# On One Fat Bike Frame



## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

Brant Richards is back at On One and today he posted these images to his blog: » It was like that when I got here #oosnowbike Shed Fire : Designing for On-One, Titus and Planet X from Calderdale.

Obviously not Brant's design, but we'll see what becomes of it.


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## cozz (Nov 26, 2009)

thats nice

Alu right ?

wonder what weight it is

I like the split top tube


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

Aluminum, yes. 

Can't really see them, but it hints at having the swap outs. This would allow someone to get a single speed set up, and then trade out the drop outs for a geared set up when wanted. 

Obviously we'll have to wait for more details, but I like the styling, and frame bags should work well with this.


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## Dr Feelygood ! (Jun 16, 2006)

Mmmmmm...... Shiney 

Just needs a truss fork .....


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## scottybinwv (Jun 29, 2010)

need better pics, 170 rear?


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## Stuey (Aug 6, 2009)

The head set looks large to me -1.5" ?


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## Dr Feelygood ! (Jun 16, 2006)

Large for internal bearings (says so on Brants site).

I could go for this big time in raw or polished........just needs a TRUSS fork


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## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

I have a 1.5" head tube on my diy frame, and a Cane Creek ZS44 headset was relatively cheap, and works okay. Very future proof, you could run forks with tapered steer tubes.


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Ding, Ding, Ding we have a winner! 

Man I'm definitely interested in more details. Brant???? Shiggy???


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## bighit (Feb 13, 2004)

Mmmmm I could make something cool out of it.


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

It's Shiggy's design. There are two of them. Headtube is 44mm. Doesn't really need to be, but hey, why not, it fits the downtube nicely and maybe we can make some mad singlesided fork like I keep wanting to make. Long way to go yet. 

ps: I did Iditabike in '96 (14th) and '97(6th), but did it on Snowcats and Conti 2.2in tyres.


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## Dr Feelygood ! (Jun 16, 2006)

brant said:


> It's Shiggy's design. There are two of them. Headtube is 44mm. Doesn't really need to be, but hey, why not, it fits the downtube nicely and maybe we can make some mad singlesided fork like I keep wanting to make. Long way to go yet.
> 
> ps: I did Iditabike in '96 (14th) and '97(6th), but did it on Snowcats and Conti 2.2in tyres.


Just keep going :thumbsup:


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## cozz (Nov 26, 2009)

very nice - they gonna be around before this winter?

hope so


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

The top tube / chain stay thing suggests vertical compliance but how does that match with using aluminum?

Twin top tubes make me worry about the width and hitting my knees on them. I've never ridden a bike with twin top tubes, so my worry could be totally groundless.


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## cozz (Nov 26, 2009)

looks like my size too - argh

and made worse by the fact Im only 25 miles away

and that its not for sale !


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## Dr Feelygood ! (Jun 16, 2006)

perttime said:


> The top tube / chain stay thing suggests vertical compliance but how does that match with using aluminum?
> 
> Twin top tubes make me warry about the width and hitting my knees on them. I've never ridden a bike with twin top tubes, so my worry could be totally groundless.


Fatbikes have 100mm wide bbshells with 148mm wide bottom brackets.......your knees are safe but your wallet is not


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

cozz said:


> very nice - they gonna be around before this winter?
> 
> hope so


No.

Infact Shiggy wants to deflect the issue that we're "late" for this year (but in time for next) by calling it a "Rock Crawler". I wonder what a bike with a slack head angle and a 6in suspension fork would be like with a 4in rear tyre (I'd just take off, right?).

Lots of fun, no doubt.


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## EccentricRich (Dec 16, 2010)

I like that, well done! Hurry up and get it to the market place, I've got money waiting!

Richard.


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

brant said:


> I wonder what a bike with a slack head angle and a 6in suspension fork would be like with a 4in rear tyre (I'd just take off, right?).


:yesnod::thumbsup:

Can you tell us what axle to crown length it is designed off of?

This frame may have just answer a lot of debate for me!


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## JAGI410 (Apr 19, 2008)

It's absolutely stunning. Good job Shiggy! I'm excited to see it all built up.


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

nitrousjunky said:


> :yesnod::thumbsup:
> 
> Can you tell us what axle to crown length it is designed off of?
> 
> This frame may have just answer a lot of debate for me!


Currently is 470mm a/c with a 71deg head angle. This may change. I certainly want to mess around with head angles a bit.


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

brant said:


> Currently is 470mm a/c with a 71deg head angle. This may change. I certainly want to mess around with head angles a bit.


Oh sweet, I was so hoping my Enabler fork would work well with it.

Now please tell me it's a symmetrical design?????

Any hints to chainstay length?


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

About the only thing different I'd want on that is an EBB, and that's simply because it allows you to make adjustments to the chainline at the front.


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

nitrousjunky said:


> Oh sweet, I was so hoping my Enabler fork would work well with it.
> 
> Now please tell me it's a symmetrical design?????
> 
> Any hints to chainstay length?


Symmetrical, 170mm (it says on the drawing), 445mm chainstays.

But it's just these two first samples. Anything could change. And might/probably will.


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## scottybinwv (Jun 29, 2010)

A slacker head angle please, more like 68. The fork can be 2-3" of travel. Maybe a soft tail?


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

brant said:


> Symmetrical, 170mm (it says on the drawing), 445mm chainstays.
> 
> But it's just these two first samples. Anything could change. And might/probably will.


As long as there isn't any huge changes, I just found my next project! This is exactly what I was looking for and has just saved me a lot of time debating some things, thanks guys!!

I'd be in favor of a slacker HT angle too.


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## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

Very interesting!


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## bighit (Feb 13, 2004)

Dr Feelygood ! said:


> Mmmmmm...... Shiney
> 
> Just needs a truss fork .....


Exactly.


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## intheways (Apr 19, 2004)

Just looked closer at the pictures. That is going to be one cool bike!


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## Dr Feelygood ! (Jun 16, 2006)

3 Q`s......

1) What is the rear tyre clearance ??

2) How about calling the UK version the "Dune Surfer" in honor of CK or the "Bog Monster" , in honor of Velobike's exploits in trying to ride through proto Lochs 

3) If you do a `mad` one sided fork , please ensure that it IS really mad with ( dare we say) adjustable clamps to allow better tyre clearance and adjustable A to C :thumbsup:


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## intheways (Apr 19, 2004)

It's like an Evil Imperial on steroids


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## ward (Aug 20, 2009)

WOW! Sure love the look of this one! Kind of has a trials bike look to it aye? Not sure about 71 degrees at the head tube... might be a little steep for snow & sand... nice to be a little slacker on a downhill when the Ft. tire sinks into soft snow or sand... of corse we don't know the effective TT length yet either. LOVE the double TT w/ super low stand over!


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## SlowerThenSnot (Jul 16, 2004)

I dig the look!


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## AJT (Nov 9, 2007)

Do it Do it .
I'll buy three.
Come on there's an egg on.


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## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

I'm not so sure about a slack head tube angle. I have 69 degrees on my frame and it feels a bit floppy at slow speed.


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## BowHopper (Jun 4, 2011)

I like it! And as fellow members of the Commonwealth please ship some to Canada!  The American manufacturers aren't really interested in selling us their bikes, for whatever reason, at least not without gouging us, and we have 35 million people and a very snowy country just waiting for some snow bikes. God Save the Queen!


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

Dr Feelygood ! said:


> 3 Q`s......
> 
> 1) What is the rear tyre clearance ??


Well, I know Shiggy had me measure my Rolling Darryl/Larry tires and I gave him that measurement to go by several months ago now. Hopefully he "future proofed" it a little bit.


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## Dr Feelygood ! (Jun 16, 2006)

Guitar Ted said:


> Well, I know Shiggy had me measure my Rolling Darryl/Larry tires and I gave him that measurement to go by several months ago now. Hopefully he "future proofed" it a little bit.


:thumbsup:


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## the_eleven (Apr 5, 2004)

Any idea at all when (if) this will go into production?


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## sryanak (Aug 9, 2008)

the_eleven said:


> Any idea at all when (if) this will go into production?


Read post # 15 or there abouts..


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## bighit (Feb 13, 2004)

Dr Feelygood ! said:


> 3 Q`s......
> 
> 1) What is the rear tyre clearance ??
> 
> ...


All these would save a lot of work:thumbsup:


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## rmb (Feb 9, 2004)

Very nice, slacker HA please.


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## donkey (Jan 14, 2004)

I like the appearance of the toptube....but what I like even more than that is the possibility of greater framebag volume due to the wider "toptube".


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## johnni1968 (Apr 29, 2008)

Is it me or is that seat-tube curved or bent, a bit like a Surly Karate Monkey? 

Now where's my cheque book!!


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

johnni1968 said:


> Is it me or is that seat-tube curved or bent, a bit like a Surly Karate Monkey?
> 
> Now where's my cheque book!!


I see that as well. An attempt at shorter chain stays, I presume.

EDIT: I see further up now where Brant said the chain stays are 445mm/17.52". Not all that short after all! But then again, for soft stuff, short stays seem to not be wanted.

I like Shiggy's suggestion that this is a "Rock Crawler", by the way. :thumbsup:


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## nolan17 (Jun 9, 2009)

Nice looking frame!!

I think the oversize headtube will allow a lot of room for people to play with the angleset headset. It is nice to have the option of slackening the HT out or gettting that perfect geometry out of a production bike. It might also be good to change the HT angle for different types of terrain or seasons.

-Nolan


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## jddjirikian (Aug 25, 2006)

nolan17 said:


> Nice looking frame!!
> 
> I think the oversize headtube will allow a lot of room for people to play with the angleset headset. It is nice to have the option of slackening the HT out or gettting that perfect geometry out of a production bike. It might also be good to change the HT angle for different types of terrain or seasons.
> 
> -Nolan


One bike to rule them all, eh?


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

nolan17 said:


> Nice looking frame!!
> 
> I think the oversize headtube will allow a lot of room for people to play with the angleset headset. It is nice to have the option of slackening the HT out or gettting that perfect geometry out of a production bike. It might also be good to change the HT angle for different types of terrain or seasons.
> 
> -Nolan


Very good point, if they went say 70 degree HT angle then we could all tweak it to where we really want it.



Guitar Ted said:


> I see further up now where Brant said the chain stays are 445mm/17.52". Not all that short after all! But then again, for soft stuff, short stays seem to not be wanted.
> 
> I like Shiggy's suggestion that this is a "Rock Crawler", by the way. :thumbsup:


This is pleasing for those of us that will be using it as a "Rock Crawler" trail machine instead of a sand/snow bike.


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## motorman (May 30, 2011)

Brant,

I know this is a wee while off, but does that mean that planet x/on one will be taking in stock of fatbike essentials - tyres, rims, bb, forks etc?. Excellent news, nice to see some more fatbike development in the wings...

BTW, just built up my Mk1 bluepig, lovely frame:thumbsup:


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## Trail_rat (Oct 25, 2006)

that is one nice frame ...... weight dependant that would be worth changing out the sandman for if its SSable without a tensioner pish ....


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## pigsley (Jun 18, 2011)

i almost envision a fat trials bike!! especially with the "rock crawler" tag.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

My intent was always for a all-round fat tire bike rather than a snow/sand specific model. Made my first notes about it last October and did a quick pitch for it in November when I was in the UK.

I have an area near me with sand and lava/basalt rock. The rock outcroppings are just begging to be ridden. Should be a blast on fat tires @ 5 psi.

Head tube is 44mm, for the size to fit the DT and use the Vertigo Cycles headset setup (supported by Cane Creek) to use straight or tapered steerer forks.

The component buid spec is the same as the Salsa Mukluk. 170 rear, 135 front (w/rear disc spec), 100mm BB shell, and a similar A-C fork. You could easily mount a 29er sussy fork or long travel 26" fork and use a standard wheel. And Brant can spec a longer fork for his slacker frame angles. 

I also speced it with Swapouts, though I may have forgot to check caliper clearance with the SS version.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Guitar Ted said:


> I see that as well. An attempt at shorter chain stays, I presume.
> 
> EDIT: I see further up now where Brant said the chain stays are 445mm/17.52". Not all that short after all! But then again, for soft stuff, short stays seem to not be wanted.
> 
> I like Shiggy's suggestion that this is a "Rock Crawler", by the way. :thumbsup:


It is short for a fat tire frame that can still use a 3x9 drivetrain. I curved the ST mostly to keep a reasonable gap for snow and still use a front derailleur. If straight, there would be only about 1cm between tire and seat tube. Should be around 2cm as is.


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## Stuey (Aug 6, 2009)

When can we buy one please.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

donkey said:


> I like the appearance of the toptube....but what I like even more than that is the possibility of greater framebag volume due to the wider "toptube".


This is a low TT, so the total volume will likely be less than most current frames. I think under the twin TT will be great place to strap a spare inner tube.


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Awesome Shiggy!!!! Thanks for bringing this idea and design to us, I'll have one for sure. :thumbsup:


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## FLA Grizzly (Nov 3, 2010)

Stuey said:


> When can we buy one please.


Yes, and how much?


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## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

nitrousjunky said:


> As long as there isn't any huge changes, I just found my next project! This is exactly what I was looking for and has just saved me a lot of time debating some things, thanks guys!!
> 
> I'd be in favor of a slacker HT angle too.


You aren't allowed to have a next project bike yet... Enjoy the B:S


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## scottybinwv (Jun 29, 2010)

This frame kind of reminds me of the old "beer can" Cdale bikes back in the 80's.

Also is there not going to be any rear brakes, I do not see any disc tabs or is it the angle of the picture? A coaster?

Modular dropouts for SS or gears?


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

scottybinwv said:


> This frame kind of reminds me of the old "beer can" Cdale bikes back in the 80's.
> 
> Also is there not going to be any rear brakes, I do not see any tabs? Or maybe a coaster?


Memory can be a funny thing
















both from mombat.org


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## scottybinwv (Jun 29, 2010)

more like this


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

At least I now understand Shiggy's reply to one of my posts about a month ago...

Mixte frame, oh yes!


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Velobike said:


> At least I now understand Shiggy's reply to one of my posts about a month ago...
> 
> Mixte frame, oh yes!


LOL! 

All it needs is a longer seat tube and "upper" seat stays!
But why do that when we have long large diameter seat posts.


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## 1spd1way (Jun 30, 2006)

Please tell me there is gonna be a version for the stubby-legged folks!


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

shiggy said:


> My intent was always for a all-round fat tire bike rather than a snow/sand specific model. Made my first notes about it last October and did a quick pitch for it in November when I was in the UK.
> 
> I have an area near me with sand and lava/basalt rock. The rock outcroppings are just begging to be ridden. Should be a blast on fat tires @ 5 psi.
> 
> ...


Awesome Shiggy! Maybe with a slight head tube angle massage by Brant this will be the bees knees for all-around fat biking. I am stoked to see how it all shakes out.


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## SADDLE TRAMP (Aug 26, 2010)

Looking good and like the idea of a more all around fat bike.

Looking forward to seeing what your build up choices are.

Keep us posted with your progress; any plans for using any
of the new tires comming up?

Always great to see individualty of design.


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## Leopold Porkstacker (Apr 21, 2010)

shiggy said:


> Memory can be a funny thing
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I should take pictures of mine and post some up. Just acquired four bikes from my father's storage space on Wednesday- a 1982 Cannondale (same one as pictured-26" in front, 24" in rear), Trek T100 tandem cross bike (less than 5 miles on it), a 1979 Murray cruiser (made not in Taiwan but Tennessee), and a 1982 or 1983 DeFelice recumbent.


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## Andy FitzGibbon (Jul 7, 2007)

Leopold Porkstacker said:


> 1982 Cannondale (same one as pictured-26" in front, 24" in rear)


Cannondale didn't make bikes at all until 1983, and didn't make mountain bikes until 1984. If your bike has the Weinmann/Shimano brake combination, it's an '84, as they switched to Suntour roller cams in '85.


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

couple newkie browns and some magners should help me with the wait...
SO, ummm... that there flame front squishie fork'll fit riiiight?


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## kypa (Aug 13, 2011)

Are the drop outs vertical?


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

kypa said:


> Are the drop outs vertical?


Currently spec'ed with On One's "Swap Outs" which are modular, replaceable drop outs that come in single speed, track end style or vertical drop out style, if I recall correctly.

Shiggy states earlier in this thread that the drop outs are the replaceable "Swap Out" style. This could change before final production.


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## ward (Aug 20, 2009)

Looks like the bent ST could get your fanny weight back over the Rr. tire... kind of like shorter CS's do. Give me a little slacker HT and I'm in!!


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## Leopold Porkstacker (Apr 21, 2010)

Andy FitzGibbon said:


> Cannondale didn't make bikes at all until 1983, and didn't make mountain bikes until 1984. If your bike has the Weinmann/Shimano brake combination, it's an '84, as they switched to Suntour roller cams in '85.


I stand corrected then. :blush: Many years and several beers later, I am just going from memory. I still need to have a thorough once-through with the bike-cleaning it up, adjusting things, etc., and then I will have a definitive answer which model year it is. So far I have the other three less exciting bikes cleaned up and in fine running order, hope to get to the Cannondale this week, and _then_  I'll have a picture of it to share.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

ward said:


> Looks like the bent ST could get your fanny weight back over the Rr. tire... kind of like shorter CS's do. Give me a little slacker HT and I'm in!!


The effective STA at my saddle height is ~73 degrees or a bit steeper. Of course the higher you go the slacker the ESTA is.

Ward, what is the HTA on your custom?


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## scottybinwv (Jun 29, 2010)

This thread needs some musak

Bee Gees - Stayin' Alive [Version 1] (Video) - YouTube


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## Stuey (Aug 6, 2009)

Shiggy / Brant how do you go about gauging the demand for these?

(Did I read some place that there were only 200 Mukluks last year)


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Stuey said:


> (Did I read some place that there were only 200 Mukluks last year)


If that is true, look what it's already turning into after the first year ( 2 complete bike versions and a TI frame version for 2012).


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## BowHopper (Jun 4, 2011)

Stuey said:


> Shiggy / Brant how do you go about gauging the demand for these?
> 
> (Did I read some place that there were only 200 Mukluks last year)


I think you ride them to see if they work, and then you look at the places that have the terrain and weather they excel in. There's a BIG untapped market in Canada right now, for example. I'm a bit puzzled that no Canadian manufacturers have jumped into the market yet, but that may be because most of them are located in the lower mainland BC, which is the one place in Canada that doesn't get much snow and where there aren't that many beaches.

Most of the regular bike riding public in Canada probably doesn't even know these bikes exist yet. I've ridden one, but only briefly and not in the snow. I know a small LBS owner here who has built and sold a couple on special order, to some ranchers I believe, and he says the owners are very happy, but they were expensive and he's not sure if there is enough demand to justify signing up to be a full Salsa dealer. The American manufacturers have either been trying to gouge Canadians, or they just haven't thought though how to ship their bikes to Canada, and as a result are doing it in a way that results in exorbitant shipping and duty costs. JensonUSA has figured it out. They can ship bikes to Canadians for typically under $150 duty and shipping included, but Surly won't let them sell Pugsleys to Canadians.

And so, alas, we wait. We wait for someone, anyone, to get serious about selling fat bikes to snowy Canada and us 35 million Canadians.


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

BowHopper said:


> Most of the regular bike riding public in Canada probably doesn't even know these bikes exist yet.


Ding! Ding! Ding!

It isn't just Canada either!

I commuted on my Mukluk today, and I can't count the number of folks that were leaning out their car windows gawking at the thing. I bet more than a few of these folks will be mentioning my bike over beers in the next few days. 

The thing is that these are not just "snow bikes". Folks will have to be shown that they are "fun bikes". Then you'll start selling them anywhere.

That's why Shiggy's suggestion for the naming of this On One offering is awesome. "Rock Crawler" will give folks a new idea about these bikes, and where and how they can be ridden. The Iceland thread is another awesome example of what I mean. Get these sorts of ideas into the Canadian's minds, (or here in the U.S.), and you'll see demand start to pick up.


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## ward (Aug 20, 2009)

shiggy said:


> The effective STA at my saddle height is ~73 degrees or a bit steeper. Of course the higher you go the slacker the ESTA is.
> 
> Ward, what is the HTA on your custom?


 70 degrees, just 1 degree less than yours. Front triangle is pretty long too for peddle (and toe-clip) clearence- and it was built w/ the Maverick fork in mind. If I was running it rigid in soft sand I think I'd like it to be 69. But, for sure, the 70 and the Mav have something to do with with it's all around capability's (high BB too!). Probably a little quicker single track/ dirt handling than the slacker angled FB's. On this one (the custom), in sand and snow, I do use a shorter stem & slide the seat back to make it handle more like the sand & snow specific bikes. You can change the feel of any bike quite a bit by changing the stem & seat position. 
One things for sure, your 71 degree proto is going to be quick handling... if the front end is long enough to keep you from going over the bars when hitting soft snow downhill & such and clears your toes in the switch backs... you might just have something there. Kind of glad you built it that way... it's going to answer some "what if" questions. Might end up being the best "Cross Country" FB yet.


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## BowHopper (Jun 4, 2011)

Guitar Ted said:


> Ding! Ding! Ding!
> 
> It isn't just Canada either!
> 
> ...


I agree, although calling them snow bikes in Canada isn't a bad thing. We get lots of snow here. 
Calgary snow pictures.

Price is another important thing for the Canadian market, however. If we look online and see these bikes selling for $1500 in the US, often with free shipping, and then go down to our LBS and see them at $2100, most people are going to be left with a bad taste in their mouths, and they won't buy. It's not uncommon for American manufacturers to mark things up for the Canadian market, and we don't like it, so when it happens to this extent on a luxury item that most people don't really need, not many people are going to fork over the extra cash. For me personally I would be ok paying $1700 for the same bike, because there are some duty and shipping issues, but much more than that and I would start to feel gouged, and there is zero chance that I would pay $2100.:nono:


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

meh, fat or thin makes no difference. 
the size of your stones is what'll get you through the blizzard. 

my 2 cents? 
drive the market by bringing it here, don't wait for the market to come around.
trust me, those who see it will understand it.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

Okay On-One selling a FB and hopefully the parts to make them work, puts FB's back onto the table to costly to import hope it's done in the standard VFM kinda way.


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## BowHopper (Jun 4, 2011)

byknuts said:


> meh, fat or thin makes no difference.
> the size of your stones is what'll get you through the blizzard.
> 
> *my 2 cents?
> ...


I agree, and I'm kicking around ways to make that happen.


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## Biff Pedachenko (Aug 7, 2007)

BowHopper said:


> The American manufacturers have either been trying to gouge Canadians, or they just haven't thought though how to ship their bikes to Canada, and as a result are doing it in a way that results in exorbitant shipping and duty costs.
> 
> And so, alas, we wait. We wait for someone, anyone, to get serious about selling fat bikes to snowy Canada and us 35 million Canadians.


I think the bigger problem here is all the manufacturers that refuse to deal directly with Canadian shops - instead we have Norco/Lambert/OGC acting as middle man and taking their cut. But this topic's been beat to death, no sense getting into it here too.

Surly is available to any Canadian shop with an NRG account - but again, middleman, SRP is $2100CDN for a complete Pugsley. To the best of my knowledge Salsa still doesn't have a Canadian distributor - so while their are shops willing to bring in Salsa product they aren't able to do it through the regular channels and not all shops are willing to take on that extra work.

I ride a Fatback which I got directly from Speedway in Alaska - absolutely no problem getting it here - about $200CDN to ship to Central Ontario. And with how strong our dollar is compared to American right now it's a good time to jump - I know two other people who did just that and will be getting their Fatbacks in September.

I'm right in the snowbelt of central Ontario - we get the big storms of Huron/Georgian Bay - and there's quite a strong fatbike community here. I started year's ago with pseudo-fats squeezing Gazzalodi's into whatever they'd fit - then the Pugsley came along and I suddenly had some people to ride with - now we have a core group of fat bikers and last year our local shop took notice stocking 3 Pugsley's (they still have a 2011 20" complete if you're looking)


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## BowHopper (Jun 4, 2011)

Biff Pedachenko said:


> I think the bigger problem here is all the manufacturers that refuse to deal directly with Canadian shops - instead we have Norco/Lambert/OGC acting as middle man and taking their cut. But this topic's been beat to death, no sense getting into it here too.
> 
> Surly is available to any Canadian shop with an NRG account - but again, middleman, SRP is $2100CDN for a complete Pugsley. To the best of my knowledge Salsa still doesn't have a Canadian distributor - so while their are shops willing to bring in Salsa product they aren't able to do it through the regular channels and not all shops are willing to take on that extra work.
> 
> ...


Good post. Thanks. I'm interested in more information on what it cost you to bring in your Fatback, shipping and duty, and how you did it. I talked to them and they told me that they don't sell all that many to Canada, and it could cost as much as $500 all in.


----------



## non-conformist (Jan 27, 2008)

I'll have to buy one as soon as it is available. Hopefully they will also offer it as a complete built. Fatbike-parts are hard to find (and mucho expensive) in Europe...


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Stuey said:


> Shiggy / Brant how do you go about gauging the demand for these?
> 
> (Did I read some place that there were only 200 Mukluks last year)


1. I design a bike I want to ride.

2. I looked at what production bikes are out there now and did not try to duplicate them.

3. We build some frames. If they sell out, we order more. If not...

4. See #1.


----------



## emp? (Sep 8, 2009)

those could be the best design rules ive ever seen :thumbsup:


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

shiggy said:


> 1. I design a bike I want to ride.
> 
> 2. I looked at what production bikes are out there now and did not try to duplicate them.
> 
> ...


Looks like you guys are at Stage #3 now.  I'd likely buy into this one.

So, will there be a pink one on offer.  (Just kidding, kind of!)


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Guitar Ted said:


> Looks like you guys are at Stage #3 now.  I'd likely buy into this one.
> 
> So, will there be a pink one on offer.  (Just kidding, kind of!)


GT, I have s color and name in mind but will likely be overruled

---- post mangled by autospell on my phone -----


----------



## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

By the beards of Zeus!


----------



## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

shiggy said:


> GT, I have s color and name in mind but will likely be overruled
> 
> ---- post mangled by autospell on my phone -----


Really? Man, I hope you are wrong about being over ruled.


----------



## SKPhoto816 (Aug 5, 2010)

Shiggy/Brant - please put this thing out there! I want to sell my WRX and ride this to work year round. You could save me a ton of money and let me turn myself into a competitive racer instead of a weekend warrior. PLEASE help me justify parting with the car!


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## MauricioB (Oct 16, 2007)

So kewl. Bring it to market and my current 29er would go up for sale in a heartbeat.


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## 127 (May 30, 2008)

Will On One bring also 170 mm rear hub to market ?


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

127 said:


> Will On One bring also 170 mm rear hub to market ?


It would seem foolish not to.


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## 127 (May 30, 2008)

Okey, Folks at On One. When your Fat frame and suitable rear hub hit to the market,
you will have at least one customer from Finland. Well, I am sure, that you will have some buyers from Finland, if the price is right. Like normal On One frame prices.


----------



## non-conformist (Jan 27, 2008)

...hmm, any plans on adding an rear(and/or front)-rack option?

might be secondary for some people, but i'd like to see that option if possible.

i think this would further increase the year-round usefulness.


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## joop (Dec 11, 2006)

Brant, count me in for a fat frame or complete to Holland. Thanks Shiggy/Brant. It is time for some real fatbikes in Europe. In the meantime I am trying to get the Wildfire bike here on Mtbr shipped to my country.


----------



## scottybinwv (Jun 29, 2010)

So the dual top tube is stiffer than a single tube? It could be an additional place to strap on gear like fishy poles or IK paddles.


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## AJT (Nov 9, 2007)

short axle to crown while we're at it


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

brant said:


> It would seem foolish not to.


Yes!

This bike will be one I must have as well.

Now........_about that single legged suspension fork thingy you brought up earlier...._


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## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

This thing looks great, and I would _so_ want one....if I didn't have a frame about to be sent off to powder


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

any any ANY chance that one of the swop-out options will allow for 135mil width IGH?


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

jncarpenter said:


> This thing looks great, and I would _so_ want one....if I didn't have a frame about to be sent off to powder


They may not offer this one in BLACK anyway.


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## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

nitrousjunky said:


> They may not offer this one in BLACK anyway.


Color is still up in the air! :eekster:


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

jncarpenter said:


> This thing looks great, and I would _so_ want one....if I didn't have a frame about to be sent off to powder


I thought you would like it! Remember all the questions I asked on RM?


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## FLA Grizzly (Nov 3, 2010)

I just posted in the fatback size thread asking if the fatback is the best tool for Florida or do you all think this one will be better. Once again it will never see snow, Thank you all


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

scottybinwv said:


> So the dual top tube is stiffer than a single tube? It could be an additional place to strap on gear like fishy poles or IK paddles.


Should be stiff laterally. Might (might) have some vertical give. I like the look and it should make it visually less bulky.


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## aosty (Jan 7, 2004)

Is this trendsetter for future not-just-for-snow fat-fun-bikes? Sign me up. The head angle may not be ideal for snow/sand but there's no shortage of other frame choices for that purpose. For general trail riding, it's fine... plus, the big headtube and 29"er fork length makes it pretty versatile. The low twin toptube looks very useful... begs for a matching above/below pack. 

Just make sure there's plenty of mounts for bottles/accessories and clearance for Moonlander rubberz!


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## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

shiggy said:


> I thought you would like it! Remember all the questions I asked on RM?


Just wait 'til you see what's cooking 

If folks think the geometry for _yours _isn't ideal for snow...they're really gonna love mine!


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

jncarpenter said:


> Just wait 'til you see what's cooking
> 
> If folks think the geometry for _yours _isn't ideal for snow...they're really gonna love mine!


I'm ready to see your 3.0!


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## Andy FitzGibbon (Jul 7, 2007)

aosty said:


> Is this trendsetter for future not-just-for-snow fat-fun-bikes? Sign me up. The head angle may not be ideal for snow/sand but there's no shortage of other frame choices for that purpose.!


Sandman's designs are for the most part all centered around that concept (not just for snow).


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## ward (Aug 20, 2009)

Andy FitzGibbon said:


> Sandman's designs are for the most part all centered around that concept (not just for snow).


Not seein' to many Sandman's making it state-side yet though... unless your flying over and bringing it back yourself. Any news on they're German Answer Fat Fork project?


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## Enel (Mar 23, 2004)

Like.


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## Futon River Crossing (Jan 28, 2007)

This will compliment my 1/2 fat Jones nicely - sign me up! 

How about a carbon truss fork - just to be different LOL.


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## Andy FitzGibbon (Jul 7, 2007)

ward said:


> Not seein' to many Sandman's making it state-side yet though... unless your flying over and bringing it back yourself. Any news on they're German Answer Fat Fork project?


You are right- I think there are only two over here so far. I was more mentioning that the On-One frame isn't the first to be designed with more than snow and sand in mind. For what it's worth, shipping my Sandman over here cost only 60 euro, and for some reason I wasn't charged any customs duty. But, the exchange rate is not in our favor right now, so unfortunately us Americans will to pay a premium for any Sandman products.
Haven't heard much on the German A forks lately, but it sounds as if they have held up with zero issues so far. When I last spoke to Conrad they were still working on coming up with a reliable tool-less wheel removal system, and deciding what to do about hubs (custom wide hub, or provide brake and axle spacers to use standard 20 mm thru hubs).
Sorry for the derail- I really like the looks of the On-One- particularly the dual top tubes.


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

It's built now. Fairly random parts and broken brakes but the first ride was good. Second ride was some bloke I met at the pub. He says its "amazing".

31lb as it stands. Flat-Top 80mms, Larrys, 30t chainring, 11-34 cassette, Sunline 762mm bars.


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## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

It needs a pair of Nates 
Looks great!


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Nates look great. Want to try the BFL as well, I'm going to see about getting some.


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## scottybinwv (Jun 29, 2010)

interesting looking fork


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Looking sweet!!!:thumbsup:


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

scottybinwv said:


> interesting looking fork


Fork clearance is not quite as much as I wanted. May need to reduce the angle of the struts.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

shaggyjohn's flicker gallery:
On-one fat bike

I am liking the tire clearance I am seeing.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

Your right, Holy tire clearance!!! That is turning out awesome!!


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

bdundee said:


> Your right, Holy tire clearance!!! That is turning out awesome!!


shaggyjohn mentioned 123mm of clearance (seat or chain stays, I do not know) on another forum.


----------



## Futon River Crossing (Jan 28, 2007)

shaggyjohn said:


> It's built now. Fairly random parts and broken brakes but the first ride was good. Second ride was some bloke I met at the pub. He says its "amazing".
> 
> 31lb as it stands. Flat-Top 80mms, Larrys, 30t chainring, 11-34 cassette, Sunline 762mm bars.


Jonestastic! ;D


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

shiggy said:


> shaggyjohn mentioned 123mm of clearance (seat or chain stays, I do not know) on another forum.


There's 123mm on the chainstays. More on the seat stays.


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## SADDLE TRAMP (Aug 26, 2010)

Great looking, & good job!

Can't wait to hear more about the geometry and how it works with the new tires.


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## Andy FitzGibbon (Jul 7, 2007)

Sand Rat said:


> Great looking, & good job!
> 
> Can't wait to hear more about the geometry and how it works with the new tires.


By those measurements, it should fit BFL's on hundies.


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## the_pilot (Jul 31, 2008)

that was my first thought, Jones Fatbike, and that is a huge compliment. I've been thinking of an all round fatbike for endurance racing/touring for a while now and had a lot of discussion with Speedway. The German:A fork on the Ti Sandman coupled with this development seems to be bringing it together.

All I'd like now is for German:A to do a true 135mm front spacing to take a Hadley or Paul non offset front hub as they are so strong and for one of those to allow 15mm or 20MM QR. That would be the boy. Add the ability to run an angleset and you don't need to compromise on rigid/suss fork use. The A fork is also nice and light.

Having said that they seem to have done extensive testing on the 20mm std hub front wheel and not broke it...looks like the German:A Flame for fatty's will be available from Sandman from October as aftermarket....might be worth trying on this frame?

The grip you get from a Larry on the trail is outstanding and the rolling resistance very low as I'm sure Shaggy/Futon can testify.

I've seen Ti Fatbacks built at 23lb too without silly parts. The 80mm speedway rims are light at 800g and stood up to Trans Provence rim bashing brilliantly.

I'm suddenly very exited again!! Might have to change my plans for the next bike


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## ward (Aug 20, 2009)

WOW! That's a SWEEEET looking fat bike built up! This one's definitely got my attention!


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

What's the expected price of this ?? even it's just Frame / Fork / Wheels / Tubes / Tyres ??

Or better still full build ??


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

shaggyjohn said:


> There's 123mm on the chainstays. More on the seat stays.


Thanks, john. I was more concerned that the seatstay clearance would be tight from the blueprint.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Turveyd said:


> What's the expected price of this ?? even it's just Frame / Fork / Wheels / Tubes / Tyres ??
> 
> Or better still full build ??


Too early to make a guess on price or how it would be bundled.


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

shiggy said:


> Too early to make a guess on price or how it would be bundled.


First off, congratulations on a stellar looking rig, and the reports from John are encouraging. This is awesome!

I just got back from a day of hob-nobbing, urban assault, ravine dropping, skinny riding, gravel roading all on fat bikes. I have a couple of observations that pertain to this bike.

-If you keep the dropper seat post routing and capabilities, it will be cheered on by me. That was one thing I found myself wishing for more than once on my ride.

-The bike should be geared more towards off road, and maybe not so much just a snow bike geo. I like my Mukluk off road, but I did ride a size smaller than mine which had a shorter wheel base, (not by much, but enough to notice). I would like to see that in the On One offering. I think I am leaning towards slightly shorter chain stays/longer front end type of geometry, but that is just me.

I do like the aesthetic of this rig as well. Very nice! Hopefully you guys green light this thing. I think it could be awesome.


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## intheways (Apr 19, 2004)

Guitar Ted said:


> First off, congratulations on a stellar looking rig, and the reports from John are encouraging. This is awesome!
> 
> I just got back from a day of hob-nobbing, urban assault, ravine dropping, skinny riding, gravel roading all on fat bikes. I have a couple of observations that pertain to this bike.
> 
> ...


Hallelujah! I want to see what this thing looks like with one of the German A forks. With an adjustable rear dropouts to vary the wheelbase from 16.5-17.5" inches, this frame has the possibility to be one of the coolest frames I never owned: an Evil Imperial









Hoorah!...keep the good times rolling!


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

shiggy said:


> Too early to make a guess on price or how it would be bundled.


Hope you can stock some Fat bike related goods then atleast.

I do want 1, wanted a FB for some time, ofcourse!!


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Guitar Ted said:


> First off, congratulations on a stellar looking rig, and the reports from John are encouraging. This is awesome!
> 
> I just got back from a day of hob-nobbing, urban assault, ravine dropping, skinny riding, gravel roading all on fat bikes. I have a couple of observations that pertain to this bike.
> 
> ...


The On-One stays are ~10mm shorter than the Salsa and wheelbase slightly shorter than a medium Mukluk. The front length can be picked via frame size. The stand over is pretty low (should be ~27.8" using the Salsa method).

The cable routing on the sample seems odd to me. I do not remember speccing the downtube RD guides or seeing them on the blueprints. Easy enough to have all the guides we may want under the TT.


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

shiggy said:


> The On-One stays are ~10mm shorter than the Salsa and wheelbase slightly shorter than a medium Mukluk. The front length can be picked via frame size. The stand over is pretty low (should be ~27.8" using the Salsa method).
> 
> The cable routing on the sample seems odd to me. I do not remember speccing the downtube RD guides or seeing them on the blueprints. Easy enough to have all the guides we may want under the TT.


Awesome. Perfect rockcrawler geo, I'm betting. Thanks!


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## ward (Aug 20, 2009)

shiggy said:


> Fork clearance is not quite as much as I wanted. May need to reduce the angle of the struts.


Or one less degree at the HT... or lengthen the whole Ft. triangle a hair. could fix this one with a little more rake though, good idea!


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

ward said:


> Or one less degree at the HT... or lengthen the whole Ft. triangle a hair. could fix this one with a little more rake though, good idea!


I meant the tire/fork clearance. I have no desire to change the geometry.


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

shiggy said:


> I meant the tire/fork clearance. I have no desire to change the geometry.


We think it's a bit steep - but 44mm HT allows up to 3deg of angle adjustment according to my headset maker (WorksComponents).

shiggy - your sample should be shipping out today I hope. Sorry for the delay.


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## ward (Aug 20, 2009)

shiggy said:


> I meant the tire/fork clearance. I have no desire to change the geometry.


HT Angle does affect tire clearance, so does the Ft.triangle geo. But so will changing the fork. Since it's a proto, I wouldn't change a thing 'till you've ridden it a bunch in all the "elements". Was just offering up tire clearance issue options. Really curious to see how it rides as is in soft sand. I know that wasn't your main purpose for this build, but if I buy one, It will have to work well in the soft stuff too. If it's too short (in the FT. end) and too steep, it's going to have issues descending in snow of questionable firmness and the steep side of soft dunes. not to mention the "holes of softness" that exist in these conditions. Again, I know your going for more of a "rock crawler", Just sayin', My FB's deffinatly end up in the Soft stuff. All that said, the steeper one does work better for XC and the slacker one does work better in the sand and snow... and the steeper one does have a longer Ft. Tri. to keep my toes from contacting the tire w/ the Mav.

Looks like your's is on the way!


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## ward (Aug 20, 2009)

ward said:


> Three degrees of adjustment... that may make it a non-issue. and may make this truly an "all around" FB...
> 
> I see some comments about a short Axle to crown measurement on here too. So, someone who wanted to change the front end could just swap for a longer fork. In fact,(truth be told) when my Maverick is loaded, especially on a descent, My HT angle is probably closer to what you have here... Sorry, brain's workin' overtime on the subject, I'll shut-up for a while...


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

As far as I'm concerned, a steep head angle is a good thing on a fat bike so long as the fork offset suits.

It gets rid of the flat tyre feeling on paved surfaces and the bike feels nimble.

You can always slacken the angle by using more fork. It's easier to modify a fork than a frame.


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## ward (Aug 20, 2009)

Gotta post a retraction of my "too steep" comments. Took an angle finder and a tape measure out to get the true spec's on my custom FB. With the Maverick loaded, HT angle is 70.5 degrees w/ an A to C of 490mm (with a standard cane creek S3). With shiggys fork it would be at least 71 if not steeper. Looks like my BB is a bit higher too (a full 13", again, that's w/ the fork loaded) however the TT is a little longer at 24 1/4"(effective), but I think it's a little bigger bike. The Chain stays are 17.5" and the seat tube angle is 73 degrees (though I do use a swept back seat post). For snow and sand, I do prefer my Fatback w/ the hunddies... but for the last 3 years, in the mountains, desert, single track, double track and every other kind of track, I haven't rode anything else but this wonderful machine. Built 3 years ago by Simple Bicycles here in Yakima WA. of Easton AL... first AL FB I know of, pre-dating the AL Fatback by a year or so and built w/ the Mav. and XC riding in mind. I LOVE THIS BIKE! and definitely on board with the "all around" FB format On One is going for!


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

ward said:


> Gotta post a retraction of my "too steep" comments. Took an angle finder and a tape measure out to get the true spec's on my custom FB. With the Maverick loaded, HT angle is 70.5 degrees w/ an A to C of 490mm (with a standard cane creek S3). With shiggys fork it would be at least 71 if not steeper. Looks like my BB is a bit higher too (a full 13", again, that's w/ the fork loaded) however the TT is a little longer at 24 1/4"(effective), but I think it's a little bigger bike. The Chain stays are 17.5" and the seat tube angle is 73 degrees (though I do use a swept back seat post). For snow and sand, I do prefer my Fatback w/ the hunddies... but for the last 3 years, in the mountains, desert, single track, double track and every other kind of track, I haven't rode anything else but this wonderful machine. Built 3 years ago by Simple Bicycles here in Yakima WA. of Easton AL... first AL FB I know of, pre-dating the AL Fatback by a year or so and built w/ the Mav. and XC riding in mind. I LOVE THIS BIKE! and definitely on board with the "all around" FB format On One is going for!


Thanks for the update, Ward.

The On-One sample frame size is about equivalent to a medium Mukluk. I think your bikes are a bit bigger.


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## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

ward said:


> ...definitely on board with the "all around" FB format...


Yup, been rocking it for a while now as well 










Got a new one coming! I can't wait!


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

jncarpenter said:


> Yup, been rocking it for a while now as well
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I was looking at your bike a lot while researching my design.


----------



## ward (Aug 20, 2009)

jncarpenter said:


> Yup, been rocking it for a while now as well
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Really nice! How are those 50's holding up ridin' hard in the rocky stuff? Love to have a pair, probably lighten up my XC rig up a bit and maybe better handling on the Summer single track but have stuck w/ the LM's for strength in the miles of rock strewn routes we have around here.


----------



## ward (Aug 20, 2009)

Raising a PBR to the XC Fat Bikes as we speak! CHEERS!


----------



## scottybinwv (Jun 29, 2010)

jncarpenter said:


> Yup, been rocking it for a while now as well
> 
> 
> 
> ...


HS droooooool.

hint hint


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

scottybinwv said:


> HS droooooool.
> 
> hint hint


Hammerschidt is not an option for a production fat bike.


----------



## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

shiggy said:


> Hammerschidt is not an option for a production fat bike.


My new one will be a 1x1 (or 10sp) only as well...no HS.
I will definitely miss it on some rides, but simplicity is also nice


----------



## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

ward said:


> Really nice! How are those 50's holding up ridin' hard in the rocky stuff? Love to have a pair, probably lighten up my XC rig up a bit and maybe better handling on the Summer single track but have stuck w/ the LM's for strength in the miles of rock strewn routes we have around here.


Uma II's have held up well, honestly. I am tempted to try the new Marge Light rims (60mm), and may have to build up a new wheelset


----------



## scottybinwv (Jun 29, 2010)

shiggy said:


> Hammerschidt is not an option for a production fat bike.


You mean cause there is no HS compatable bb wide enough for a fat bike?

Seems like it is tailor made to eliminate any front derailluer conflicts with fat tires. I love the way it can be shifter under load even though it adds weight.


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

scottybinwv said:


> You mean cause there is no HS compatable bb wide enough for a fat bike?
> 
> Seems like it is tailor made to eliminate any front derailluer conflicts with fat tires. I love the way it can be shifter under load even though it adds weight.


Yes. jncarpenter's bike has an 83mm shell. It is possible to make a dedicated HS fat frame but not so easy on that can also use other common drivetrains.


----------



## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

I'd also like to add that, practically speaking, the HS can't handle shifting under load as much as you'd think. Don't get me wrong: it's not the internal mechanism. That thing is bomb proof solid. What I'm saying is they ****ed up the cable clamp! It's ridiculous! It's a little 4mm allen, not a 5mm like most shifting clamps, and the supplied washer is constantly slipping on me. Drives me crazy. If I'm not careful about backing off during a shift, it slips.

Maybe I'm the only HS user with this problem, I don't know.


----------



## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

Drew Diller said:


> I'd also like to add that, practically speaking, the HS can't handle shifting under load as much as you'd think. Don't get me wrong: it's not the internal mechanism. That thing is bomb proof solid. What I'm saying is they ****ed up the cable clamp! It's ridiculous! It's a little 4mm allen, not a 5mm like most shifting clamps, and the supplied washer is constantly slipping on me. Drives me crazy. If I'm not careful about backing off during a shift, it slips.
> 
> Maybe I'm the only HS user with this problem, I don't know.


I'm not exactly sure what is being described here, but the only problem with shifting I have had with mine was related to a slightly bent tab. After I fixed that, it was golden again. I have about 2 years of hard riding on mine...


----------



## moose2008 (Sep 10, 2010)

Shiggy / Brant
I know that there almost certainly isn't but will there be anyway of fitting a Rohloff?
What about a custom GH version for an extra cost.
I ask a lot I know
You are doing a great job and have designed what I've been after for ages, I think they'll take off in a much bigger way than people think.
Have you looked at the Pinion gear system?


----------



## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

jncarpenter said:


> I'm not exactly sure what is being described here, but the only problem with shifting I have had with mine was related to a slightly bent tab. After I fixed that, it was golden again. I have about 2 years of hard riding on mine...


Shifting into the easier gear with high pressure on the crank causes the cable to slip, which causes inability to get into the easy gear at all, or in other cases makes for an "in between" where it is in neither gear. I'm using the stock cable supplied with the HS shifter.

I'm glad to hear it is just me, so take it with a grain of salt.


----------



## Enel (Mar 23, 2004)

jncarpenter said:


> I'm not exactly sure what is being described here, but the only problem with shifting I have had with mine was related to a slightly bent tab. After I fixed that, it was golden again. I have about 2 years of hard riding on mine...


The shifter pod took a dump on mine after a couple months. Replaced with a grip shifter and it has been golden since then.


----------



## ward (Aug 20, 2009)

Not experienced w/ HS, Rohloff, etc. so I can't compare or comment, but for what it's worth, gear set-up wise, Though I seldom use my big chainring in sand or snow ( have used it a couple times on the hard sand at the beach w/ a very strong tailwind), I have used it quite a few times on my XC fatty... bombing down forrest roads, completing a loop on a paved section and etc. Could have gotten by w/o it, but I'd a been way behind. And it's a blast rippin' down a logging road on mine w/ the Mav. and Larry's. Gotta get the tire pressure right though, too much and when you hit wash boards it'll bounce you right off the road.


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

My sample frame arrived.

Lots o' room in the stays.


----------



## SlowerThenSnot (Jul 16, 2004)

shiggy said:


> My sample frame arrived.
> 
> Lots o' room in the stays.
> View attachment 640463
> ...


a good look for yah!


----------



## Atcher service (Sep 13, 2011)

*a topiary*

you could put it in the garden and support you climbing plants.


----------



## ward (Aug 20, 2009)

Looks like it fits! You gonna stay up late and look at it from every angle?


----------



## intheways (Apr 19, 2004)

Built yet?


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

ward said:


> Looks like it fits! You gonna stay up late and look at it from every angle?


I did that last night.

I like this angle. Looks like a trials frame.


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

intheways said:


> Built yet?


Almost.
Just need a crank spindle, fork, headset, wheels, tires, front derailleur, FD mount...


----------



## singlespeedstu (Jul 6, 2006)

I had a quick spin round on Shaggys bike yesterday and was very impressed with it.

It handles a lot more like a conventional mountainbike that my Mukluk.

I think for trail riding it'll be fantastic.


----------



## scottybinwv (Jun 29, 2010)

shiggy said:


> My sample frame arrived.
> 
> Lots o' room in the stays.
> View attachment 640463


I knew a girl like that once.

You look slightly delirious is that picture.

Happy = New bike stuff


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## sryanak (Aug 9, 2008)

singlespeedstu said:


> I had a quick spin round on Shaggys bike yesterday and was very impressed with it.
> 
> It handles a lot more like a conventional mountainbike that my Mukluk.
> 
> I think for trail riding it'll be fantastic.


SSS Were the two bikes set up with similar wheelsets. I've been reading all the posts about this or that bike being specifically designed for snow or trail or dirt or whatever. Also discussions about head tube angle etc. I have an old Ti Fatback which has a pretty shallow headtube angle (somewhere around 69 degrees) and with Endos on 80 mm rims it handles like a truck in the dirt, as did my Pugsley on the same tires and Large Marges. However with Larrys on 47 mm rims the Fatback handles very much like any other mountain bike.


----------



## singlespeedstu (Jul 6, 2006)

Both bikes have 80mm rims* with Larrys so yes a very similar setup.

Well they looked like 80's to me anyway.


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## Devine Intervention (Aug 29, 2005)

Don't mind me, I'm just jumping on this thread to find out when the frames become available.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Devine Intervention said:


> Don't mind me, I'm just jumping on this thread to find out when the frames become available.


We are still in the first prototype stage. There will be some changes for production.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

shiggy said:


> We are still in the first prototype stage. There will be some changes for production.


On-One will need it tested in Scottish bogs first. I'm ideally placed to do that 

I'd like to see an EBB on it - it's also handy for lifting the BB up when venturing into rocky stuff.


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## Panda Face (Oct 6, 2011)

Here I'm thinking, with that low top tube, you could have some serious fun at the local snowboard terrain park.


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## flashes (Jun 30, 2009)

Don't change it, I rode Shaggy's at SSUK I did a 1/4 of the lap and back, very different to my Pugsley. If it comes as a SS option my Pugsley will be for sale. The On One is so much better for the real world... and I ride the Pug at least twice a week............


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## motorman (May 30, 2011)

Is it really that good? Tell us more... 
Is this going to me a 135mm or 170mm rear? Swapouts are great, but needs to fit IGH to open up the full potential of the bike as a trail/bog/rock crawler in my opinion. Do we have a guesstimate on the timeline for this bike?


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## satanas (Feb 12, 2005)

Rohloff compatibility would be nice and the chainline should be okay with 3.7-3.8"...


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## groovyrider (May 30, 2008)

satanas said:


> Rohloff compatibility would be nice and the chainline should be okay with 3.7-3.8"...


second that, maybe 135mm spacer option...... and an EBB or sliders.......I'm in the market for a FatBike but will be with a Rohloff for sure (don't know how to operate mechs anymore )


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

shiggy said:


> My sample frame arrived.
> 
> View attachment 640461


I thought this Shiggy pic looked familiar:

Redirect Notice


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## moose2008 (Sep 10, 2010)

Another one here who needs a IGH in my fatbike, all the other lads I ride with run IGH's or SS too. Will there be any options to cater for this, maybe a custom run of 135 rears at a cost??? There seems to be a bit of interest, could we club enough people together to persaude you to do a limited run???


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## Smallfurry (Jul 8, 2009)

I was wondering if it was an easy thing to cater for hub options via 4 individual swapouts, attached as paragon drop-outs. Two NDS, with one being fat to provide offset for a 135mm hub. Two DS, one with, and one without a mech hanger.

Then you could run pretty much anything you want.

Not sure if the fat NDS would work though. Just throwing ideas around.


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

135mm is looking more possible.


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## motorman (May 30, 2011)

Good stuff.....so, am I going to be able to buy this in less than 12 months is the big question?


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

I would hope less than SIX Months.


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## groovyrider (May 30, 2008)

brant said:


> 135mm is looking more possible.


YES! that would be sooooo cool

and within 6 months sounds even better :thumbsup:


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## satanas (Feb 12, 2005)

Might I suggest that if the 135mm (symmetrical I hope!) frames are to be for Rohloff or SS use only, then one of the reasons for the 100mm BB shell goes away since the chainline required can be achieved with a normal MTB crank. If cranks were chosen carefully and clearances arond the 3.7-3.8" rear tyre weren't too excessive, then there'd be the possibility of a fat bike with a normal Q factor (or almost), which would make some people's legs a lot happier! :thumbsup:

And you would likely corner that part of the market which cares about such things - there must be somone else besides me...:ihih:


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## 127 (May 30, 2008)

Its gonna be dark and cold winter, but my mind is clear, I want one.


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## Smallfurry (Jul 8, 2009)

I still think some sort of spacer system, like the Mukluk is the way to go (or clever swap-oouts). I'm pretty much commited to a 1x10 set-up, and am definitely going for a non-offset rear wheel. Unless your running an IGH, offsetting the rear wheel is a solution to a problem, that already been solved with the availability of 170mm hubs.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

The ability to take a Shimano Alfine is going to be an important consideration for many people, and that won't work with a symmetrical layout unless Shimano or someone else comes up with a modification to allow wider chainlines.

A derailleur doesn't last long in heather or forest undergrowth, and Rohloffs limit the target market because of the expense.

Can we pre-order? Get one in time for the 'Puffer?


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## groovyrider (May 30, 2008)

Just some thoughts/questions........., Rohloff set-up with 32/13 ratio, normal 135mm drop-out, EBB, slightly longer rearstay and normal size BB.........would this work with a 3.8 Larry??

What's the smallest ring you use with an Alfine?


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## satanas (Feb 12, 2005)

^ Width of Endo is said by Surly to be 94mm on a LM rim, so width from centreline is 47mm. Larry = + .010" = + 2.54mm = + 1.27mm from centre, so width from centreline increases to ~48.3mm. Rohloff chainline is meant to be 58mm with the 13T cog, and chain is unlikely to be wider than 7mm max, so chainline minus half chain width = 58 - 3.5 = 54.5mm, which is ~6.2mm more than 1/2 tyre width, thus yielding 6.2mm clearance. With a normal (15, 16, 17T) Rohloff cog, chainline moves in 4mm, so there should still be 2.2mm clearance, not a huge amount but enough.

Re Alfine hubs, the best solution woud be to make it possible to use a more offset cog to push the chainline out, rather than changing the overlocknut dimension, or having to engineer adapters. Still, with the current cogs offset outwards, chainline is ~47mm, so 7mm offset (rather than the 17.5mm Surly uses with derailleurs) would bring the chainline to the same place as Rohloff and SS. Another way to achieve this would be to increase rear spacing to 150mm, also compatible with DH rear hubs.

Swappable dropouts could make it possible to use both dishless wheels (Rohloff, SS) and offset Alfine wheels on the same frame. While it would be possible to make dropouts to accommodate 170mm hubs as well, this would require making the stays unneccessarily wide when used with SS or IGH hubs, IMO. 

FWIW, I'd prefer narrower stays, a 68 or 73mm BB shell and normal cranks please, even if this means the chainstays need to be plate rather than tubing around the widest part of the tyre - like the Hammerschmidt-equipped bike pictured, plus various others..


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## motorman (May 30, 2011)

Velobike said:


> The ability to take a Shimano Alfine is going to be an important consideration for many people,
> 
> Can we pre-order?


X2 :thumbsup:


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

A few observations.....

If I were On One, I would want to maximize my selling opportunities. In that case, I think the following would apply...

Clearance for Big Fat Larrys
Ability to go single speed or geared
"Future-Proof" frame design, (tapered steer tube compatible, modular drop outs.)

In this case, I think Swap Outs are the way to go, and making that compatible with 170OLD and 135OLD would be ideal, if it can be done. Of course, single speed is easy. 

This would necessarily preclude much of the IGH ideas being bandied about here, but in my opinion, new fat bike designs and current IGH dimensions are at odds with each other.

Just look to the Origin 8 Crawler for an example- IGH hub, chainline not exactly straight, and there is no way you'll fit 100mm rims and BFL's in that frame. (Probably not even BFL's on 80mm rims. Not to mention chain clearance)


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## moose2008 (Sep 10, 2010)

I think that if the new on one fatbike is aiming more towards being a trail bike it wouldn't be essential to take BFL's and 100mm rims.
By using an offset 135 rear end I think you'd get most of your current Pugsley / 907 owners converting to on one ( if they were after a better trail bike ) anyway.
If On One sold offset wheels I don't see an issue for people with the offset.


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

I would def. want it to be 170 rear, 100bb if there were to be any interest from me. Likely this will take too long to hash out and the Fatback with the sliders will have my $$


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

satanas said:


> ...Re Alfine hubs, the best solution woud be to make it possible to use a more offset cog to push the chainline out, rather than changing the overlocknut dimension, or having to engineer adapters...


The problem with an offset cog on an Alfine is that the gearchange mechanism interferes. I have a 10mm offset cog which interferes. A smaller offset may work, but the problem with the large offset cogs is that they wobble and really are only suitable for beach cruiser type use.



moose2008 said:


> I think that if the new on one fatbike is aiming more towards being a trail bike it wouldn't be essential to take BFL's and 100mm rims...


That would make it obsolete immediately. A UK fatbike is going to see a lot of very soft conditions (not necessarily snow in the balmy south) and fatter tyres are the future IMO.

Swappable dropouts are the answer.


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## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

For Alfine chain line woes, let's compare to a Rohloff. Widest chain line you will get there is 56mm with a 13T cog.

Assuming you are dealing with a non offset axle, you're limited to 80mm rims and 3.8" tires, and the tire/chain clearance will be very tight.

Can't really go much wider than that with 135mm OLD. Gear hubs are plainly too narrow for fat tires and symmetry. So until gear hubs get wider, we deal with asymmetry.

(I'm an IGH fanboy if anyone doesn't know)


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

Drew Diller said:


> For Alfine chain line woes, let's compare to a Rohloff. Widest chain line you will get there is 56mm with a 13T cog.
> 
> Assuming you are dealing with a non offset axle, you're limited to 80mm rims and 3.8" tires, and the tire/chain clearance will be very tight.
> 
> ...


Exactly. This was my point in my earlier post. Well said.


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## moose2008 (Sep 10, 2010)

I've been using my Rohloff in a 47mm drilled out rim for about a year now on my pugs and have hammered it through all sorts and it's stood up to everything just fine.
Maybe the answer, unfortunately is to go like 907 and have two different frames a 135 and a 170, though it would be good to have 1 frame for everyone.
I know people worry about how nieche these bikes are but I think they'll really take off in the UK with some exposure and when people see them on normal trails. People just don't get it at the moment and think these bikes are just for the north pole and sahara desert. 
All of the people I ride with get why I ride it now and that's through the summer, when the filth comes they'll really get it.


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

Apparently, Brant really likes it: Head fried. Outrageously rad. Love it. - shedfire's dumping ground

*



Head fried. Outrageously rad. Love it.

Click to expand...

*


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## vaultbrad (Oct 17, 2007)

you beat me to it!! I was about to post that link. Looks pretty damn good all built up.


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

and there's this - » Fat bikes are mmmboptastic Shed Fire : Designing for On-One, Titus and Planet X from Calderdale.

Which is the tyre mark left by me riding down here - ragleybikes's Channel - YouTube


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## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

shiggy said:


> I did that last night.
> 
> I like this angle. Looks like a trials frame.
> View attachment 640471


Shiggy,
The new frame and whole idea behind this bike looks great. I know the frame you just recieved is pre production, but are there plans for rack mounts at the back of the frame?

I just got my first ride on a fat bike the other day (Muk3 at Universal) and I am sold on the concept of fat tires on a rigid frame. I too would rather have a fat bike that is designed for all around riding vs. snow specific. On the Mukaluk, it was difficult to lift the front tire and I am hoping your (OnOne) design will make this a more playful bike. I was looking at going with a 29er front suspension bike for a winter mud / bike packing machine, but I think this option could be more fun.

Keep up the good work.


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## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

*Bump*

Is the bike built up yet? I would be willing to take it out for a ride and offer my opinions.


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Lots of people have been riding "my" bike. Not me though. Brant won't give it back ;-)

I don't think there are going to be many changes to the frame. The £999 bike looks to be a very good spec. Not sure how much I can say though...


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## Stuey (Aug 6, 2009)

shaggyjohn - £999 sounds like a great deal - but will there be a frame only option ?


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

The idea was to be full bike to start with, followed by frame (and forks and parts) later.


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

Latest view of the On One fat bike from the Hit The North news section announcing a fat bike category for their event.


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

hrmm, swap-outs for symm. 135mm wheel would allow those 29-inclined to swap in any standard wagon wheels at will.

can I trademark "wagon-wheels-at-will"? as the official name for fatbikes easily modded to fit 29er wheels? 

I digress: I'm not into 29ers myself anymore, but there's enough puggners around to make me think some people like them. 

me? I want a nate out back, and my 36 talas with gazzaloddi up front.


Also: everything still in track for april? (brant said "less than 6 months" about 4 weeks ago so...)


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

I'd like a 29" rear wheel setup to keep the role speed acceptable and a fat front, i've ran a 3" Gaz with a carbon fork on the front rides quite nicely but would like the full 4"+ 60mm Rims area for max low pressure so role on On One stocking Fat forks and wheels and tires!!!


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## Jamie_MTB (Nov 18, 2004)

There's some footage of GreatRock riding it at Gisburn Forest!


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## EGF168 (Aug 13, 2007)

A few photos from this Flickr set taken at The London Bike Show yesterday.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

I love the no photography stickers you have captured so well...


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## EGF168 (Aug 13, 2007)

Hahaha...I didn't notice the symbol until you pointed it out.


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## Dr Feelygood ! (Jun 16, 2006)

Frame looks great as it is.........now sort the FORK out


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

And this little bit comes from Bike radar's London Bike Show coverage:



> *
> * On One's mission to do for the fat bike market what they did for singlespeeding looks one step further ahead as the British company were again showing their fat bike prototype. It'll be officially launched on the longest day of the year - 21 June - to underline that it's a 'fat bike' rather than a 'snow bike'. Endurance racer John 'Shaggy' Ross has been helping with development. On-One will be selling it as a complete bike only and are aiming for around £1,000 complete.


So, there ya go: Complete only and will be available this coming summer. I'm sure that bums some folks out who were looking to get just a frame set.


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## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

That rear hub certainly looks familiar... is the geometry from Sandman too  ?


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## twangcat (Jun 4, 2008)

*Stoked*



Guitar Ted said:


> So, there ya go: Complete only and will be available this coming summer. I'm sure that bums some folks out who were looking to get just a frame set.


Jumping on the theme of drool factor max here, the announced June release is rocking my world because I decided to put my fat bike jones back into the closet immediately upon learning of development of this frame back in the fall. Presently in NC and likely more time in OR in the future, I'm looking at a fatty as another bike in the trail riding stable along with my Turner 5.Spot and not necessarily as a snow bike. I would like to jump on the purchase list ASAP, so I'm curious as to the availability in the USA, and I would be grateful for any information in that regard, including money up front for pre-orders as an option, whenever those decisions are made by On One.

Complete only is a minor drag, but so be it. All of us eventually make bikes our own in some form anyway.

Cliff


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## Rabies010 (Jan 20, 2011)

If it will sell as a complete for £1,000, then i think i will start saving my pennies for a little trip to the UK this summer !


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## flashes (Jun 30, 2009)

Not for me. I'll wait for a SS specific frame..........


----------



## Rabies010 (Jan 20, 2011)

As in horizontal dropouts and/or an ebb ?


----------



## flashes (Jun 30, 2009)

Yep, horizontal......


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

twangcat said:


> Jumping on the theme of drool factor max here, the announced June release is rocking my world because I decided to put my fat bike jones back into the closet immediately upon learning of development of this frame back in the fall. Presently in NC and likely more time in OR in the future, I'm looking at a fatty as another bike in the trail riding stable along with my Turner 5.Spot and not necessarily as a snow bike. I would like to jump on the purchase list ASAP, so I'm curious as to the availability in the USA, and I would be grateful for any information in that regard, including money up front for pre-orders as an option, whenever those decisions are made by On One.
> 
> Complete only is a minor drag, but so be it. All of us eventually make bikes our own in some form anyway.
> 
> Cliff


We will be receiving the Fat Bike in Portland about the same time as it arrives in the UK. Preorders will be available once we have a firm delivery date (meaning when the container is on the water).


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

caminoloco said:


> That rear hub certainly looks familiar... is the geometry from Sandman too  ?


Hardly. I am responsible for the design/geometry. Never looked at the Sandman specs.


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## flashes (Jun 30, 2009)

Having ridden the one Shaggy had at SSUK, I can say it's going to be a hoot. Very different from my Pugsley. But I'll still wait for a SS version.............


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## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

*Rack mounts?*

Hey Shiggy,

I forgot to ask you a couple of questions when we were on the Brown's camp ride. Will this frame and fork be getting rack attachment points? Also, will there be a raw/no clearcoat version available?

This frame looks even better in the flesh. I can't comment on the ride because the frame was too small for me and was wearing drop bars.

Thanks.


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

bubba13 said:


> Hey Shiggy,
> 
> I forgot to ask you a couple of questions when we were on the Brown's camp ride. Will this frame and fork be getting rack attachment points? Also, will there be a raw/no clearcoat version available?
> 
> ...


Do not know yet. I think it should have them.


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## Scoobytao (Mar 19, 2011)

Shiggy-
I imagine the whole build spec might be in flux for a while, or do the photos accurately show what to expect? I thought On One was working on their own rim design. Can you speak to that a bit?


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## twangcat (Jun 4, 2008)

shiggy said:


> We will be receiving the Fat Bike in Portland about the same time as it arrives in the UK. Preorders will be available once we have a firm delivery date (meaning when the container is on the water).


Thanks for this info, Shiggy. I'll keep an eye out. Is a listing of the build spec and any possible options likely as well at some point?


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## Surfdog93 (May 30, 2005)

Shiggy, what will be your largest frame ?

Thanks


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## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

shiggy said:


> Hardly. I am responsible for the design/geometry. Never looked at the Sandman specs.


Just wondering, from the article, the pictures here and on On One's website. John Ross was sponsored a frame and a rare DTSwiss 165mm rear hub by Sandman for last years Iditabike. He's now apparently helping On One with the design of their new fatbike, aimed at trailriding too. And his Sandman wheels are in the On One prototype... so excuse me for asking (with a wink) that save for the components, other things might have drifted over too ?

But basically I'm more interested in how you adapted a 165mm hub to 170mm spacing and align the brake caliper ? Other 12mm thru-axle insert which offsets it to the left - I can't see any spacers on the rear brake caliper ?


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

caminoloco said:


> ...so excuse me for asking (with a wink) that save for the components, other things might have drifted over too ?...


I think you'll find that On-One have been moving to steeper HAs long before this bike.


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Scoobytao said:


> Shiggy-
> I imagine the whole build spec might be in flux for a while, or do the photos accurately show what to expect? I thought On One was working on their own rim design. Can you speak to that a bit?


The builds you see are mostly using existing components. We will have our own for production. Brant is working on them.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

caminoloco said:


> Just wondering, from the article, the pictures here and on On One's website. John Ross was sponsored a frame and a rare DTSwiss 165mm rear hub by Sandman for last years Iditabike. He's now apparently helping On One with the design of their new fatbike, aimed at trailriding too. And his Sandman wheels are in the On One prototype... so excuse me for asking (with a wink) that save for the components, other things might have drifted over too ?
> 
> But basically I'm more interested in how you adapted a 165mm hub to 170mm spacing and align the brake caliper ? Other 12mm thru-axle insert which offsets it to the left - I can't see any spacers on the rear brake caliper ?


The frame, as shown, is 100% my design. The first I heard of John is when Brant introduction him to me (via email) as a tester of the bike.

I do not know what they used on the UK bike. The frame does have Swapouts, easy to add a spacer.

The DT hub is more common in the US as Santana uses them on their tandems.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Is that fork finish a new option, or just for prototypes?


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## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

shiggy said:


> The frame, as shown, is 100% my design. The first I heard of John is when Brant introduction him to me (via email) as a tester of the bike.
> 
> I do not know what they used on the UK bike. The frame does have Swapouts, easy to add a spacer.
> 
> The DT hub is more common in the US as Santana uses them on their tandems.


Fair enough, apparently John footed Sandman parts to put the On One showbike in the UK together. They just might have done it a bit more subtle with sponsored parts . John even shoulders his Sandman standing in water on the On One website (but then, the picture below that is his old Pugs...):
Fat bike proto in testing | Products | News - On One Bikes
They not only lacked parts, but also "action" pictures when putting that page together .

I'm puzzled though about why they keep that 165mm hub (which has been discontinued for at least 3 years by DT Swiss, they're VERY rare) in your 170mm frame. Apart from it being a bombproof hub with a freewheel easy to service.
From the looks of it they added a 5mm spacer/derailleur hanger to the right, between the cassette and the frame. Which kind of puts the chain/tire clearance down the drain. 
It's got even less chain clearance now than a regular 165mm frame, kind of the opposite what a Pugs does with a 135mm hub. 
Other than getting it ready in a hurry for the show, I can't figure out a practical reason?


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Hey Conrad, yeah, that's your hub! The original build, other than f&f and headset, was all stuff I had here. It had a Hadley rear hub on Flat-tops. The build pictured up there has a few of the parts I have been using but On-one put their finishing kit on for the show. The final bike is going to have pretty much all different parts. I've been running the On-one rim on the front for a while but was struggling to get a well priced 170 hub. That frame and hub are spaced on both sides to get it to work, like you say-; its not optimum, it's not a design feature, it was just done because it was a nice hub that was about and I was in a rush!

I'm still riding the Gobi as well- sporting SC32s now. Lots of fun


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## motorman (May 30, 2011)

What rear hub will the complete bike be supplied with?


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

And to be 100% clear- the design was by Shiggy. I haven't changed any angles or dimensions. I haven't even compaired angles or dimensions. It rides quite differently to the Gobi. I'd guess seat tube diametes and the bb were the only common factors.


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Still TBC I think. We have 2 that we have been talking about. It'll be one you haven't seen and will be On-one branded. Both are very nice.


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## Orkje (May 3, 2006)

@ Shaggyjohn: in what way does the On One frame ride differently from the Gobi?


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## Funrover (Oct 4, 2006)

Beautiful!


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## Dr Feelygood ! (Jun 16, 2006)

This frame would look great with the tapered steerer Fatback carbon fork .......


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## maralva (Aug 10, 2010)

I want!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ilove it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## pläski (Aug 28, 2011)

Surfdog93 said:


> Shiggy, what will be your largest frame ?
> 
> Thanks


Double to that - interested if you'll make one large enough for us tall guys (6'5" with looong inseam)?


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

on one's making a fatbike frame and fork.
on one's doing their own fatbike tires.
on one's got a line on relatively inexpensive carbon rims.

hrmmm... probably not TOO feasible but... y'know... :idea:


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

Me too. 25" top tube with plenty of standover and I'm getting one.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

shiggy said:


> We will be receiving the Fat Bike in Portland about the same time as it arrives in the UK. Preorders will be available once we have a firm delivery date (meaning when the container is on the water).


Are there any updates on when these will be released?


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

ljracer said:


> Are there any updates on when these will be released?


Looking like late summer.


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

when the rims come out on their own, any chance of a 36 hole version?


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

Brant has posted some images of Sample #2 with changes to the head angle, head tube, and drop outs here.


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## myheadsashed (Jul 16, 2011)

Oh dear just read the "titanium is planned" bit at the bottom of the blog......it'll look a bit like the Carver and knowing On-one the half the price........I feel a purchase coming on (eventually)


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

Guitar Ted said:


> Brant has posted some images of Sample #2 with changes to the head angle, head tube, and drop outs here.


Looks like this one doesn't have the swapouts for different dropout configurations? I'm hoping to run this one single speed with no tensioner and have the option to run gears...

That's the biggest thing I've seen missing from the currently available stock fat bikes. Most of the single speeds are custom frames.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

ljracer said:


> That's the biggest thing I've seen missing from the currently available stock fat bikes. Most of the single speeds are custom frames.


The Moonlander, Pugsley offer dropouts for gears or SS. I believe Fatback & 907 are coming out with sliding dropouts for next season as well.


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## flashes (Jun 30, 2009)

That's the biggest thing I've seen missing from the currently available stock fat bikes. Most of the single speeds are custom frames.
Mine isn't...............


----------



## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

flashes said:


> That's the biggest thing I've seen missing from the currently available stock fat bikes. Most of the single speeds are custom frames.
> 
> Mine isn't...............


I forgot to clarify...non surly, with some sort of sliding dropout so I don't have to worry about magic gears, tensioners, etc.. 170 non offset frame; ideally aluminum; and trail oriented geo. I'm never going to see snow.

That's why the on-one frame is very appealing for me.

anyway what are you riding?!

thanks!


----------



## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

Guitar Ted said:


> Brant has posted some images of Sample #2 with changes to the head angle, head tube, and drop outs here.


I wanna know more about the new head tube angle...


----------



## ward (Aug 20, 2009)

bubba13 said:


> I wanna know more about the new head tube angle...


I'm guessing they may have slacked it a degree... just guessing.

Not that those of us who want too couldn't figure out a way, but don't see any rack mounts.

Also, I'm a bit "knock knee'd"... have any of you guy's that have ridden it had issues bumping the top tube(s)? Looks like they're down low enough that it probably wont be an issue...


----------



## bikewrench (Nov 30, 2006)

I'm ready to sell my Spearfish and build up one of these!!!


----------



## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

*all quiet here*



shiggy said:


> Looking like late summer.


This thread has been pretty quiet so far. What's new? Are there any pics of the latest white prototype frame in action? How is it working compared to the prior one?

I would love to hear some news, updates, whatever!

thanks


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

New protos have just arrived. Not built yet. 

Large is currently 610mm ETT iirc. Because of the bent seat tube the length grows a lot as the seat post goes up do if you have long legs it makes the working TT dimension though longer, if you see why I mean.


----------



## Johnclimber (Jan 9, 2008)

When will the finished ones be for sale?


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

I'm not sure. Tyres are what's holding it up. I'm sure Brant will be along before long.


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

New frames are here. 

Muddy Fatty by Shaggy John, on Flickr


----------



## Stuey (Aug 6, 2009)

needs more sprinkles


----------



## motorman (May 30, 2011)

Hows that chain tensioned? EBB?
How long till we get some final spec of this bike & some real pics?


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Magic gear.

I have the large sample frame here, that one is the small. Will do pics once it's built. Spec. soon, once its done. Production bikes looking like October, due to the tyre time scales.


----------



## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

There's less mud on this one:
All sizes | Before | Flickr - Photo Sharing!


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

That's one of the first protos. The muddy one is from the second batch.


----------



## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

"Floater" ?


----------



## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

*Latest Update From On One*

Here's the latest on the On One fatbike from their site:

_We're nearly ready to launch the production run of our Fatbike, having recieved three final sample frames just before Mountain Mayhem. One of which we managed to convince team rider Jason Miles to ride, solo for 24hrs. For money._
_We're just experimenting a little with angle-changing headsets and a couple of different fork rakes to double check our final front end geometry, before hitting the GO button on frame production._
_Our Fat Tyre, which up until now we've only seen in wooden form, will be complete early August, which means we're now looking at a mid October landing time for the complete Fatbikes._
_Spec will be 1x9, with hydraulic brakes, our wheels and tyres. Spacing is 135mm front and 170mm rear. Dropouts are vertical only. Finishing kit will be on-one or Truvativ. Retail price is trying to be around £1000. _
_More news when we know it!_


----------



## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Guitar Ted said:


> Here's the latest on the On One fatbike from their site:
> 
> _We're nearly ready to launch the production run of our Fatbike, having recieved three final sample frames just before Mountain Mayhem. One of which we managed to convince team rider Jason Miles to ride, solo for 24hrs. For money._
> _We're just experimenting a little with angle-changing headsets and a couple of different fork rakes to double check our final front end geometry, before hitting the GO button on frame production._
> ...


This is sweet! The October time frame works perfectly for me. Anyone know if there will be a waiting list or something that an interested buyer can get on sooner rather than later? I want one and I want one early!


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

There will be a mailing list thing and a preorder discount thing too.


----------



## motorman (May 30, 2011)

Well done, gotta admit, that is a great price for a really good looking bike! 
How much does it weigh & did it ever get rack mounts fitted?


----------



## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

brant said:


> There will be a mailing list thing and a preorder discount thing too.


Any details on the in house rims? How wide are you planning? drilled?

looking forward to that preorder!


----------



## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

It's been a while. What's the latest on this bike? Any parts start showing up yet? 

thanks!


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Rims are 72 but give a wider tyre profile than the 80s I have here.

Geometry is fixed AFAIK. Gussets added at the front end. BB dropped. HA slackened a bit. Rake increased. I'm riding the large sample now, it's ace. I've asked Brant about the due date, cos I don't know. I'm looking forward to using the tyres- I've been loving Shiggy's other designs.


----------



## Orkje (May 3, 2006)

I still think the "vertical dropouts only" is a mistake. Come on, On One!


----------



## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

Why?


----------



## Orkje (May 3, 2006)

druidh said:


> Why?


Simply because vertical dropouts make a singlespeed setup without tensioner so much harder.

I know that few people run fatbikes ss, but it's a viable option and On One have quite a bit of experience when it comes to ss.


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Classic On-one colours now. Loving it.

On-One Fatty proto #2 by Shaggy John, on Flickr


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

ljracer said:


> It's been a while. What's the latest on this bike? Any parts start showing up yet?
> 
> thanks!


I have heard of no change from this:
Fat bike update | Products | News - On One Bikes - kiedy spa?em w samochodzie z Brant obudzi?em si? z bólem odbytu


----------



## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

£1000ish and October in time for Winter, tyres which look better for trail / forest useage put the likely £1500 29x3" Surly out of the picture I guess until next year anyway.

Tyre + Wheel + Fork available seperately if I decide to 1/2 fat my 456 ??


----------



## motorman (May 30, 2011)

Will 100mm rims/bfl fit the rear of that frame?


----------



## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

Delete doh!!


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

A quick measurement gives 125mm, so IIRC that's fine.


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Forgot to add that I changed the fork crown to accommodate bigger tyres better. Results in a better look IMO as well.

Old:

On-one fat bike proto by Shaggy John, on Flickr

New:

On-One Fatty proto #2 by Shaggy John, on Flickr


----------



## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

Just do a tapered steerer fork already!


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

motorman said:


> Will 100mm rims/bfl fit the rear of that frame?


They do on the first sample frames. Test fit a BFL on hundies with room to spare.


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

Really interested in getting one of these for bike packing. (Not sure my Whippet would cope!)

Like others have mentioned, rack mounting seems a little scant on these pre-production frames. The latest pic of the forks has me more concerned, as the crown doesn't appear to be drilled either 

While for me it's not a deal breaker, I'm planning on pre-ordering as soon as the order book opens, as I can see a few workarounds (reverse inserted star nuts, p-clips etc.) it would be nice to know if some of these details will be addressed in the production version.


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

jncarpenter said:


> Just do a tapered steerer fork already!


Straight steerer is compatible with our slackset for further geometry adjustment.


----------



## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

shaggyjohn said:


> Classic On-one colours now. Loving it.
> 
> On-One Fatty proto #2 by Shaggy John, on Flickr


Thanks for posting up some new info! Just waiting around for the preorder now... This still seems like the best trail fat complete out the door and I can juryrig a SS setup if needed.


----------



## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

Hopefully making Fat bikes and parts available / affordable in the UK.


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

So are On-One sticking with the dog breeds for their bikes? (Whippet, Lurcher)

If so surely there can be only one name for this bike: the St. Bernard!


----------



## Orkje (May 3, 2006)

In that case I'd go with Husky!


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

Orkje said:


> In that case I'd go with Husky!


Immediately made me think of Mariella Frostrop :blush:

But yep either work :thumbsup:


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

brant said:


> Straight steerer is compatible with our slackset for further geometry adjustment.


That's a big plus for me. I prefer steeper HAs.

Any chance of Trigger's Mother's bathroom blue as a colour choice? Love it on my Pompinos.


----------



## motorman (May 30, 2011)

Is this only available as complete bike? Any chance of frame/ forks / rims being sold separate?


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Bike only at the moment. Hopefully more to follow.


----------



## motorman (May 30, 2011)

That's a pity. I like the bike, but not the spec for my needs anyway.
Ok, sell me one of the proto's to build into 100mm dune crawler then. Problem solved 

OT, really liked your piece in singletrack this month Shaggy :thumbsup:

* is away checking out new fatback/907_ Frame_ options....*:nono:


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

motorman said:


> That's a pity. I like the bike, but not the spec for my needs anyway.


It was never going to please everyone, I think a lot of people will like it though. Hopefully a bit of a gateway-drug.



motorman said:


> OT, really liked your piece in singletrack this month Shaggy :thumbsup:


Thanks, I had the photos so it was nice to get something in print.


----------



## mjduct (Jul 31, 2012)

exigetastic said:


> So are On-One sticking with the dog breeds for their bikes? (Whippet, Lurcher)
> 
> If so surely there can be only one name for this bike: the St. Bernard!


Bull Mastif


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

I was thinking Cujo.


----------



## ward (Aug 20, 2009)

Let's not forget about the good ol' Malamute...


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

shaggyjohn said:


> I was thinking Cujo.


That's a bit more hard edged than Schnorbitz I guess


----------



## Orkje (May 3, 2006)

Direwolf? Just a thought...


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Nah, it's got to be Mongrel.


----------



## damnitman (Jan 30, 2008)

The Malamute...Buck was a Malamute...


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

damnitman said:


> The Malamute...Buck was a Malamute...


Heck, I like "Buck"


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

What's this bike going to cost? Looks great


----------



## damnitman (Jan 30, 2008)

...trade you for a frame...


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

richulr said:


> What's this bike going to cost? Looks great


Still pushing for £1000/$1200 for the bike with 1x9 On-One and SRAM parts.


----------



## kingmoonracer (Nov 20, 2008)

Shire

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


----------



## patineto (Oct 28, 2005)

shaggyjohn said:


> Still pushing for £1000/$1200 for the bike with 1x9 On-One and SRAM parts.


Do you have a tentative parts list, pictures, whatever..?


----------



## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

Orkje said:


> Direwolf? Just a thought...


No love for the Deadheads? Hah...I like Direwolf as well! :thumbsup:

Honestly...it reeks big attitude in a small package; Chihuahua?


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

nevermind


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

$1200? Where do I send my money?


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

seriously, how can I make sure I can order one when its time? I subscribed for offers on the website


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

I haven't got an update on the timescale. I will post on here when I do. Signing up for the website is probably the best plan.


----------



## motorman (May 30, 2011)

shaggyjohn said:


> Still pushing for £1000/$1200 for the bike with 1x9 On-One and SRAM parts.


This is really good value for a complete bike IMO.

New fatback swinger dropout frame is $850 for example (£540)
Then add shipping/customs to get it to UK then it becomes nearer $1000 (£660)

As a fun play bike, I think it will be a hit.


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

Completely agree, £1000 would be fantastic value.

Not sure if on-one will offer their normal tailoring options, and at that base price a few other upgrades may need to be selected  (Fingers crossed a 2x9/10 would be viable so I could run 29s on it at some point)


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

could you fit clownshoes on this frame?


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

richulr said:


> could you fit clownshoes on this frame?


Seems to enough room, although I haven't got any to try.


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

richulr said:


> could you fit clownshoes on this frame?


http://forums.mtbr.com/9586293-post295.html


----------



## motorman (May 30, 2011)

What frame sizes are being offered & how may units are being produced in this first batch?


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

16, 18, 20in. Only 500 in initial build.


----------



## coastkid71 (Oct 21, 2008)

> Originally Posted by richulr
> could you fit clownshoes on this frame?


Does it have a decent chain/tyre clearance with a 2x9 chainline? - and a decent chainline? 

Seems impossible so far unless a Surly MWOD crankset is used.
Not meaning to be negative!, It is just so many folk post about this being possible on frames but it is obvious there is not the clearance for a full cassette, or like the Mukluk it rubs the tyre (even with a cog dropped and drive chain caked in mud) but no one is prepared to post decent pictures of chain clearance in 1st gear on a granny ring on all these claims, except on the Moonlander.
Anything under half an inch clearance from tyre to chain is pretty much useless in UK mud conditions as we all know . Looks like something the Surly Krampus will not have it too but the hype seems to ignore this :rolleyes :...

So what head angle are you guys going to go for?


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

coastkid71 said:


> Does it have a decent chain/tyre clearance with a 2x9 chainline? - and a decent chainline?
> 
> Seems impossible so far unless a Surly MWOD crankset is used.
> Not meaning to be negative!, It is just so many folk post about this being possible on frames but it is obvious there is not the clearance for a full cassette, or like the Mukluk it rubs the tyre (even with a cog dropped and drive chain caked in mud) but no one is prepared to post decent pictures of chain clearance in 1st gear on a granny ring on all these claims, except on the Moonlander.
> ...


1/2" of tire/chain clearance? A mtb with 2.3" tires has less than 3/8" (8mm) of clearance.

In *WE*s*T*ern Oregon muck I am happy to have 4-5mm of tire/chain clearance.

With current hubs, a full width cassette and 100mm rims a decent chainline and good tire/chain clearance are mutually exclusive. The chainring will always need to be more outboard than ideal.


----------



## coastkid71 (Oct 21, 2008)

Half inch is 12mm, Moonlander has that easy on full 2x9 gearing...

Head angle? 

Again no questions answered...


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

reading these threads got me thinking about getting a fatbike as a second bike. But this thread has cinched it. 

I'm ready to place an order when they're ready. Just hope I can get in on that 500.

What size would be best for a guy 6'1" with around a 33 inch inseam? I have a 21" 2010 Hifi deluxe, but you seem to need to buy big to fit on those. 

I imagine the 20" would be my size.


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

coastkid71 said:


> Half inch is 12mm, Moonlander has that easy on full 2x9 gearing...
> 
> Head angle?
> 
> Again no questions answered...


I have 8mm of clearance with 65mm rims and a Vee Mission tire. My Profile Racing crank has the rings a bit further inboard than an FSA triple with ISIS BB or a standard Mr Whirly.
When I test fit the BFL on a 100mm rim the chain just skimmed the sidewall.
Surly says the MWOD rings increase clearance by 7mm over the standard rings.

I do not know what HTA Brant has speced for production. The prototype used 71*


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Head angle isn't even half the story when it comes to steering geometry.


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

brant said:


> Head angle isn't even half the story when it comes to steering geometry.


There speaks a real expert. :thumbsup:

And when you use a telescopic fork, then there's big variations in the head angle anyway (as the suspension works).

Now if On-One produced an adjustable fork, we could all experiment with steering geometry, just like with suspension. Just think, with 100 adjustment points, we could have 99 chances of getting it totally wrong.


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

shiggy said:


> 1/2" of tire/chain clearance? A mtb with 2.3" tires has less than 3/8" (8mm) of clearance.
> 
> In *WE*s*T*ern Oregon muck I am happy to have 4-5mm of tire/chain clearance...


I think you should try some British mud...


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Velobike said:


> I think you should try some British mud...


There should be no such thing as "british mud".

Just as Eskimos allegedly have many different words for snow, we should have many different words for mud.

Though actually Eskimos don't have lots of different words for snow. Eskimo words for snow - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Velobike said:


> There speaks a real expert. :thumbsup:
> 
> And when you use a telescopic fork, then there's big variations in the head angle anyway (as the suspension works).
> 
> Now if On-One produced an adjustable fork, we could all experiment with steering geometry, just like with suspension. Just think, with 100 adjustment points, we could have 99 chances of getting it totally wrong.


Head angle is 68degs.
Fork offset isn't 45mm


----------



## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

any pics of the different frame sizes?


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

brant said:


> There should be no such thing as "british mud"...


You're right. I was being British because of the Olympics - I really meant ENGLISH mud. It appears to have clagginess and adhesive qualities I have never seen elsewhere (eg Africa, Australia) - or maybe it's special stuff that's trucked in specially for 24 hour races?

On the other hand, Highland mud gets bottled and sold to car restorers as valve grinding paste.


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Velobike said:


> You're right. I was being British because of the Olympics - I really meant ENGLISH mud. It appears to have clagginess and adhesive qualities I have never seen elsewhere (eg Africa, Australia) - or maybe it's special stuff that's trucked in specially for 24 hour races?
> 
> On the other hand, Highland mud gets bottled and sold to car restorers as valve grinding paste.


Even English mud is too vague. The mud around here is gritty and wet and doesn't really stick. Around England there are clay muds, sand muds, chalk muds. Many different sorts.


----------



## coastkid71 (Oct 21, 2008)

Gary Buckham is an expert on mud and silt and sand, he has a massive collection of test tubes full of stuff from all round the UK :thumbsup: really he does! 

Here is East Lothian clay, after a half mile of old runway and still sticking! 


22,7,12 006 by coastkid71, on Flickr


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Velobike said:


> There speaks a real expert. :thumbsup:
> 
> And when you use a telescopic fork, then there's big variations in the head angle anyway (as the suspension works).
> 
> Now if On-One produced an adjustable fork, we could all experiment with steering geometry, just like with suspension. Just think, with 100 adjustment points, we could have 99 chances of getting it totally wrong.


Rim width and tread design seem to have a huge effect on fat bike steering in addition to the "normal" parameters.


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

coastkid71 said:


> Gary Buckham is an expert on mud and silt and sand, he has a massive collection of test tubes full of stuff from all round the UK :thumbsup: really he does!
> 
> Here is East Lothian clay, after a half mile of old runway and still sticking!
> 
> ...


Been there. Sometimes it does not matter how much clearance you have or what equipment you are using. When you have clay stuck to the bottom of your shoes making you 4-5 inches taller all bets are off.


----------



## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

brant said:


> Even English mud is too vague. The mud around here is gritty and wet and doesn't really stick. Around England there are clay muds, sand muds, chalk muds. Many different sorts.


Yeah, you don't have to go to England for sticky mud. (From Trans Iowa)


----------



## EGF168 (Aug 13, 2007)

Effective toptube length on the 20in frame?


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

610mm


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

brant said:


> Even English mud is too vague. The mud around here is gritty and wet and doesn't really stick. Around England there are clay muds, sand muds, chalk muds. Many different sorts.


In Oregon the mud can be very different on opposite sides of the same canyon.


----------



## Burnt-Orange (Dec 10, 2008)

we like to add fine gravel to the clay around here in Wisconsin
it is really good at cutting through carbon fiber chain stays

Sj


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

If On One wants to stay with the dog theme, I suggest naming it after the greatest British Bulldog of all, Matilda!


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

I they're going to leave the dog theme:

this is bike is ugly, tough, and it means business. How bout naming it after English bare-knuckle legend Lenny McLean? Could call it "Lenny", or better yet, "The Guv'nor."


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

any info on the final wheel specs? I know you guys are using your own hubs and wheels. 

How wide are they going to be? Any chance they are pre-drilled?


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

72mm undrilled rims on the base production bike. 
Drilling at OE isn't cheap and those enthusiasts that want to save the weight can easily do it themselves.


----------



## Futon River Crossing (Jan 28, 2007)

Is it possible to drill out a rim that is already built up into a wheel? If not, you'd have to add £80 for wheel building 

Enthusiasts ? Surely the definition of fat bike owners!! Undrilled rims??? So 4 years ago


----------



## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

Oh dear...this bike has made me want another bike and to keep up my tradition of getting On One (Il-pompino) / Planet X (Carbon SL) on the cycle to work scheme .


----------



## Dr Feelygood ! (Jun 16, 2006)

Futon River Crossing said:


> Is it possible to drill out a rim that is already built up into a wheel? If not, you'd have to add £80 for wheel building
> 
> Enthusiasts ? Surely the definition of fat bike owners!! Undrilled rims??? So 4 years ago


Yes you can drill out built rims 

Here is what I did :-

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dr-fgs-uk-fatback-build-778026.html

From post #3.

Dr FG.


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Stuart B said:


> Oh dear...this bike has made me want another bike and to keep up my tradition of getting On One (Il-pompino) / Planet X (Carbon SL) on the cycle to work scheme .


+1

Until I went on to fatbikes, I looked like an On-One addict. I like Brant's thinking on frame design, and I like On-One's price/performance ratio.


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Velobike said:


> +1
> 
> Until I went on to fatbikes, I looked like an On-One addict. I like Brant's thinking on frame design, and I like On-One's price/performance ratio.


Shiggy's frame design. Mine and Shaggy's geometry.


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

Stuart B said:


> Oh dear...this bike has made me want another bike and to keep up my tradition of getting On One (Il-pompino) / Planet X (Carbon SL) on the cycle to work scheme .


Join the club :thumbsup:

My cycle to work scheme Whippet will have been with me 1 yr at the end of the month, time for something new! Even better the On-One's £1k target price should mean I can squeek in under our company limit 

Like a fair few on here just waiting to be able to put a pre-order in. I guess we are still waiting on the On-One branded tyres?


----------



## 127 (May 30, 2008)

I have the money, I have the drill if needed, but then will these be available ? 
The fork is quit ugly, but i can live with that.


----------



## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

Even with out cycle to work On ones and Planet X's are amazing value and very good bikes. Yeah I think mine is £1000 limit too.

Any clues on dates yet?


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Tapered head tube. 1 1/8 fork. Great if you want to use an Angleset (as I am). Scope for future fork development as well.


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

brant said:


> 72mm undrilled rims on the base production bike.
> Drilling at OE isn't cheap and those enthusiasts that want to save the weight can easily do it themselves.


What's the thinking behind the 72mm rims. Seems everyone is going as fat as possible. How come you guys are going skinnier?

just curious


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

richulr said:


> What's the thinking behind the 72mm rims. Seems everyone is going as fat as possible. How come you guys are going skinnier?
> 
> just curious


I'm guessing (hopefully an on-one insider can correct me) but so they'll be "matched" to the new on-one tyres to give the right profile.

www shedfire com / 2012/03/07/on-one-snow-tyre-wooden-tread-sample
(sorry not hit 10 posts to put the proper url in, but I'm sure you can work it out :thumbsup

Pugsley OEM = 65mm rim with 3.8" tyre
On-one OEM = 72mm rim with 4.0" tyre

My understanding is this bike won't be about floatation, more general trails riding, so I can see why they kept the rim width down.


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

exigetastic said:


> I'm guessing (hopefully an on-one insider can correct me) but so they'll be "matched" to the new on-one tyres to give the right profile.
> 
> www shedfire com / 2012/03/07/on-one-snow-tyre-wooden-tread-sample
> 
> ...


what he said


----------



## motorman (May 30, 2011)

72mm rims sound spot on to me for trail riding.

I have 80mm rims & I would not want to go any wider for this bikes design brief - fat, fun trail riding.
Wider rims are about floatation on soft surfaces, this is not what this bikes want to do. It is a 1x9 playbike for tooling around in the woods or rock crawling.

Before I forget, will the tyres be on sale soon?


----------



## kcaz (Nov 2, 2004)

brant said:


> what he said


Oh man this bike is going to be so good! 28.5lbs before drilling?! Sweet. Having a fatbike without the weight associated with it, at this price point, will open up a whole new demographic. Well done dudes.

Brant, any clue when the order bank will open?


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

kcaz said:


> Oh man this bike is going to be so good! 28.5lbs before drilling?!


It won't come in at that weight as stock. I don't know the final spec. but it'll be a few pounds more than that. That's not to say it's a slouch!


----------



## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

motorman said:


> 72mm rims sound spot on to me for trail riding.
> 
> I have 80mm rims & I would not want to go any wider for this bikes design brief - fat, fun trail riding.
> Wider rims are about floatation on soft surfaces,


What I hear people say is that wider rims do have a serious drawback for trail riding. When you have rocks and other hard objects, a wiiiiide rim is way more likely to be damaged.


----------



## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

perttime said:


> What I hear people say is that wider rims do have a serious drawback for trail riding. When you have rocks and other hard objects, a wiiiiide rim is way more likely to be damaged.


That rather depends on the tyre dimensions.

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

wait, are you saying that even though the rims are skinnier, the tires are going to be 4 inches?


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

a bit fatter than the necro pug and mukluk?


----------



## Devine Intervention (Aug 29, 2005)

Anything showing up at Interbike this year regarding this bike?


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Devine Intervention said:


> Anything showing up at Interbike this year regarding this bike?


interbike is a trade show, and as we're a direct sales operation there's no point in us going really.

so no.

it's all in progress and we're hoping to get stuff arriving for builds very soon.


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

brant said:


> .... we're hoping to get stuff arriving for builds very soon.


Cool, 'cos I'm hoping to buy one very soon :thumbsup:


----------



## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

druidh said:


> That rather depends on the tyre dimensions.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


In the Fat Bike context, a 100 mm rim is pretty wide. A 3.8" tyre is about the same.

Sent from my HP desktop using Internet Exploder 8.


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

you know, orange is an awesome color



just sayin


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

everything looks awesome


I do hope "Floater" is just what you're calling it until you reveal the real name


----------



## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

richulr said:


> everything looks awesome
> 
> I do hope "Floater" is just what you're calling it until you reveal the real name


If they're calling it that then it needs to be available in brown only.


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

The tyre is going to be called the Floater. Bike name is still TBC.


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## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

Thats good news. I thought the bike might be the "Floater" because I saw a picture with a big "Floater" on the seat tube. Also one of the blogs referred to it as the new "Floater" bike. Really glad its not going to be called that.

Here's a question: a lot of people are asking how wide of tires the frame can handle, but how wide of a tire can the On One rim handle?


----------



## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

just seen this on facebook

» It's coming&#8230; Shed Fire : Designing for On-One, Titus and Planet X from Calderdale.


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

*Prices*

Guys, please can you keep this just a smidge under the magic £1k cycle to work scheme mark.... you'll have my order straight out if you can!


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

What weight &TPI will the tyre be?


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

125tpi 
Weight tbc


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## deuxdiesel (Jan 14, 2007)

Carrot on a stick, meet horse. Horse, meet carrot on a stick. Nothing personal, but this has been going on for over a year.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

deuxdiesel said:


> Carrot on a stick, meet horse. Horse, meet carrot on a stick. Nothing personal, but this has been going on for over a year.


Don't care!

On-one has good credibility in its market, and they are good at keeping us informed of exactly where a product is at. I'm interested and so obviously are a few others.


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## 98srx6 (Jun 25, 2012)

brant said:


> 125tpi
> Weight tbc


Do you have any idea as to when the tire will be available by itself?


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

deuxdiesel said:


> Carrot on a stick, meet horse. Horse, meet carrot on a stick. Nothing personal, but this has been going on for over a year.


What's your point?


----------



## Smallfurry (Jul 8, 2009)

If it only took a year from concept, to final product on the market. I'd be real fecking impressed.

Just cuz Surly, Salsa et al, did-nt post up info right from the conception of their bikes. Doesnt mean they got them on the market any quicker.


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

Smallfurry said:


> If it only took a year from concept, to final product on the market. I'd be real fecking impressed.
> 
> Just cuz Surly, Salsa et al, did-nt post up info right from the conception of their bikes. Doesnt mean they got them on the market any quicker.


Exactly. I saw a BFL a full year before they became available on the market. Surly and Salsa both are no faster bringing stuff to market than anyone else. They just don't let on at the beginning of the project what it is they are working on like On One has with this project.


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## Smallfurry (Jul 8, 2009)

Wasnt meant to be a knock on Surly BTW. I love those folks.


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

Smallfurry said:


> Wasnt meant to be a knock on Surly BTW. I love those folks.


I didn't think it was a knock on them, for the record, and I agree- I like 'em too.


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## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

Mo tyres ! Nicely done :thumbsup:


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

This bike needs to be in my garage, ASAP! I can hardly wait!


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## 127 (May 30, 2008)

Sad news if true.

In Finnish cycling forum somebody said, that someone from On One has couple of weeks ago told him, that the bike will hardly be available this year and the price will about 1400 £.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

127 said:


> Sad news if true.
> 
> In Finnish cycling forum somebody said, that someone from On One has couple of weeks ago told him, that the bike will hardly be available this year and the price will about 1400 £.


Well, maybe Brant can update and see if we are still on target for October as previously hinted.  They have been very forthcoming with information here.

From what I've seen they have been about a month behind predictions. I'm sure they are hesitant to do any firm dates until they have all the hardware in hand. That's why it's all speculation at this point.

The tires were expected to show up in August. It's September and they have at least one. Could be hundreds, but I only saw a pic of one.

I think they just finalized the geometry a couple of months ago.

So maybe we are looking at November? The price target, geometry, and timing are huge decision makers for me.

I really would prefer one of these over a 13 mukluk, but if it's next year, then it's down to who delivers first.

To be honest I think they are doing a fantastic job. It's just that waiting is the hard part.


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

127 said:


> Sad news if true.
> 
> In Finnish cycling forum somebody said, that someone from On One has couple of weeks ago told him, that the bike will hardly be available this year and the price will about 1400 £.


If it lands in December, I guess that it will hardly be available this year. 
We will offer one for £1400 I hope. With a Reverb.

Basic model is planned and priced at £999


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## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

What about shipping? Are these shipping from the UK? Or are they manufactured somewhere else?

If it is coming fromt he UK, how much will shipping be to middle america? I've never paid for overseas shipping before on a bike. 

I've also always bought from the LBS. Will this bike ship fully assembled? Or do we put it together? Partially assembled?


thanks


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

We'll hopefully be able to supply from Uk or USA.


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## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

what about assembly?


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

richulr said:


> what about assembly?


Mostly assembled. Needs to fit into a shippable box. Basically re-fit wheels, bar/stem, and make minor adjustments.


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## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

I think I can handle that.

thanks for all the replies. The fact you guys are so willing to discuss your product makes the bike even more appealing. 

I've seen white and grey on the protos. Are those the final colors? The white looks awesome! I would kill for an orange one though.


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## easterntide (Sep 1, 2012)

looking at building a bike for her. she's 5'2" and the locally available Surlys seem too big. Smallest size offered by On One is expected to be???


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

richulr said:


> I've seen white and grey on the protos. Are those the final colors? The white looks awesome! I would kill for an orange one though.


Final colour hasn't been decided yet. Talk was it would be On-one classic White with black decals.



easterntide said:


> looking at building a bike for her. she's 5'2" and the locally available Surlys seem too big. Smallest size offered by On One is expected to be???


Small is 15.5" c-t the seat tube brace is still there though so c-c is more like 13".


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## easterntide (Sep 1, 2012)

shaggyjohn said:


> Small is 15.5" c-t the seat tube brace is still there though so c-c is more like 13".


hmm. that'd more than work.
link to photos? i haven't seen it yet.
thanks!


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

I haven't got a good shot of a small. This is one though.


Muddy Fatty by Shaggy John, on Flickr


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## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

*Basic model at £999!!!*

I love you Brant!


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## jnl1105 (Oct 3, 2011)

is it going to be available as a frame only, If so how much?


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

jnl1105 said:


> is it going to be available as a frame only, If so how much?


I would imagine we'll be selling frame only's. I'd sell my granny is she was still alive.


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## jsm11 (Apr 8, 2010)

I'm sold, count me in.....

As with everything else you produce, excellent price point.


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## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

Any chance of seeing one at the next Fatbike UK meet in October??

I'm happy to pop by and pick it up if you have no one willing to attend :thumbsup:


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## coastkid71 (Oct 21, 2008)

Can`t see that happening Druidh in case someone disses it, don`t want anyone spoiling the hype 

I would like to see one too  even if it is apparantly marketed as "not a beach bike" er 95% of a UK fatbikes true potential!


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## saltyman (Nov 21, 2009)

would be nice to see them at fatbike events....we pretty much self advertise our own fatbikes to the public at these things!

i dont have a single day on mine where people dont want to know about fatikes.

these will sell out easy but doubt fatbikes will be popular for a few more year yet here in the UK....though lots of folk waiting to try them out.


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

Got a frame weight?


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## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

What's the wheelbase on a 20 inch?


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## theewoodsman (Sep 15, 2012)

looks nice


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Floater has arrived


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## 127 (May 30, 2008)

Which Rim ????? Looks not like any Surly rim. Perhaps On One production, but with holes ?


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## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

So what does this mean? We've already seen pictures of the tire.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

richulr said:


> So what does this mean? We've already seen pictures of the tire.


It's in the the link. They now have stock, but restricted to new builds at this stage.


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## 98srx6 (Jun 25, 2012)

Do you have a weight on the "floater" tire?


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## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

Guys, so what happened to October...  - I am not in the UK the first 3 weeks of December.... can I reserve a XL in raw finish  ??


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## aosty (Jan 7, 2004)

Velobike said:


> Floater has arrived


The white looks great.


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## kaiser2 (Jul 27, 2008)

Anymore tidbits on the £1400 version apart from the reverb? Drilled rims, carbon fork, XT, paint?


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## jcs05 (Feb 18, 2009)

Error, sorry.


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## jcs05 (Feb 18, 2009)

How do I proceed to be the first in France to buy one ?
Snow is 2000m higher than my house actually but in two month everthings will be alright : snow will be there 
Do you think my new on one will be there too ?
I hope !
:devil:


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

Hasselhoff approved!


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## kcaz (Nov 2, 2004)

Is that a hint of the bikes name?


"The 'Hoff!"


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## jcs05 (Feb 18, 2009)

Searching the web for information about the on one fat bike I found this picture :
flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/]Flickr:[/url] Shaggy John's Photostream
This village is half an hour from my home. If I knew that a fat bike is so close I would go and have a look at it...
:madman:


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## jcs05 (Feb 18, 2009)

The URL of the picture is false because mtbr forum doesnt want me to post a message with an URL..


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

I take it this is the Piegut photo? I was out for the Trans Provence. Amazing trails out there! You are very lucky. No problems with the bike all week except 1 thorn puncture, 1 set brake pads worn out and one brake pad bolt lost. Not bad considering I was riding with people on 6" travel bikes 

In an attempt to answer some questions:
My bike may be at the We 3 Fat thingy this weekend. It has been at a lot of *normal* mountain bike events, we want people to try them.

Rims in those pictures are the production ones but with holes. I've been on mine since July- seem bombproof.

Wheelbase is ~115cm on my large. 

There is supposed to be a pre-order deal at some stage. Brant is in Taiwan at the moment but I'm sure he has some ideas.


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Brant is in Taiwan in bed at moment 
Complete spec and stuff online in next couple of weeks. Preorder offer too.


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## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

shaggyjohn said:


> My bike may be at the We 3 Fat thingy this weekend.


That would be great. Will we see the Floaters too?


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## hssp (Aug 28, 2007)

brant said:


> Brant is in Taiwan in bed at moment
> Complete spec and stuff online in next couple of weeks. * Preorder offer too*.


Yessyesssyessyess!


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## jcs05 (Feb 18, 2009)

hssp said:


> Yessyesssyessyess!


The same for me :thumbsup:


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## jcs05 (Feb 18, 2009)

shaggyjohn said:


> In an attempt to answer some questions:
> My bike may be at the We 3 Fat thingy this weekend. It has been at a lot of *normal* mountain bike events, we want people to try them.


Will you be at roc d'azur in Frejus ?
Sandman made some buzz last year while riding the same fat bike in many races.



shaggyjohn said:


> Rims in those pictures are the production ones but with holes. I've been on mine since July- seem bombproof.


That means no holes on the production bike ?. I love the look of rims with hole. No idea of the utility (or not)



shaggyjohn said:


> There is supposed to be a pre-order deal at some stage. Brant is in Taiwan at the moment but I'm sure he has some ideas.


Will we be inform on this post for the preorder ?


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Ditto! Want one bad. So for clarification, will the stock rims be drilled or solid?


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## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

Thanks for the pre-order offer on the cards!! Like it already! Can we have some markings on the inside of the rims so we know where to drill them  Dread messing one up!!


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## calzonical (Aug 30, 2005)

pre-order - count me in too


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## 127 (May 30, 2008)

Production has started. » Fatty in production Shed Fire : Designing for On-One, Titus and Planet X from Calderdale.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Want want want! So I may have missed this somewhere in the thread, but any idea what the US pricing will be?


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

An encouraging sight










(pic from Shedfire)


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## Joshua_B (Oct 1, 2011)

I feel like I'm 5 years old again, waiting to open Christmas presents. I can't hardly wait to get my hands on one of these!


----------



## flashes (Jun 30, 2009)

*Oktoberfest the race*

We borrowed this for the 8 hour race (team of 4) Charlie and me raced our Pugsleys.
While Cab and Paul H used this. Considering neither had ridden it before it was brill, no mechanicals and we came 12th out of 31 in class.
Really stable pretty light and as Cab put it, we wished we had a mirror fitted to see peoples faces as we passed them.......................
Before;
https://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff194/19582cv/DSC02837_zps4a993328.jpg
After:
https://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff194/19582cv/DSC02840_zps1e3aef7c.jpg


----------



## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

Headset:Fork looks, err, awkward....


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

I got a set of Floaters today. Weights were 1455g and 1444g. Haven't had a chance to try them yet as Flashes still has my bike.


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

druidh said:


> Headset:Fork looks, err, awkward....


It's improved with a good packing of mud around it.


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

druidh said:


> Headset:Fork looks, err, awkward....


You can't see it when you're on the bike.

Perhaps I have designed a degree of "future proofing" in eh ;-)


----------



## Ze_Zaskar (Jan 3, 2008)

Any plans for rack mounts on the production frames?


----------



## Futon River Crossing (Jan 28, 2007)

Shame the floaters weigh so much  1250g would be on the money!


----------



## Turtle01 (Sep 20, 2005)

Depending on their weight vs. cost they may be a viable middle weight tire. Surly is costly, Vee Rubber/Origin8 are heavy, maybe Foaters will be not too heavy, but cost effective. One can only hope since I haven't seen a cost yet at all (has that been released yet?).


----------



## custardninja (Apr 13, 2006)

Now up for pre-order with full spec and geometry. On-One Fatty


----------



## Rabies010 (Jan 20, 2011)

That's it, "Fatty" ?
I would have expected for them to come up with a more original name than that.:skep:


----------



## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

I like the wheel specification detail.

Wheels: Fat

Indeed


----------



## fer83 (Jan 7, 2007)

is the crankset singlepeed only or will it accept a granny ring?


----------



## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

F-yeah!

Any more specs on the wheels? The rims look drilled - I thought I recalled something posted a while back stating they would be solid on the production bike?

Any more info on exactly how limited the production run will be? I want one bad but need to sell off my fat front first!


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

They are lighter than my 120tpi Nates and will cost a bunch less.


----------



## BjornS (Feb 5, 2010)

By looking closely on one of the pictures on their website it seems possible that a granny ring can be fitted. Even thoough the spec on the site says "singlespeed chainset".

Nice bike! Much awaited, heard some rumours of different specs being available a wee bit later this winter (carbon fork, other drive train etc etc). Still to be confirmed, I guess.

Like the work these lads do. Hmm, where did my credit card go...

Bj.


----------



## Futon River Crossing (Jan 28, 2007)

A bit of competition will hopefully bring the price, of fat tyres, down - good news all round!


----------



## fer83 (Jan 7, 2007)

BjornS said:


> By looking closely on one of the pictures on their website it seems possible that a granny ring can be fitted.
> 
> Nice bike! Much awaited, heard some rumours of different specs being available a wee bit later this winter (carbon fork, other drive train etc etc). Still to be confirmed, I guess.
> 
> ...


my kona unit come stock with a FSA crankset that looks like any triple ring one except because it has the tabs but no drills for the small ring bolts. That's why I'm asking.

Please excuse my bad English


----------



## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

brant said:


> You can't see it when you're on the bike.
> 
> Perhaps I have designed a degree of "future proofing" in eh ;-)


Tapered, likely a good choice someday if we get some squishy fork options.

It does look better muddy though :thumbsup:


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

custardninja said:


> Now up for pre-order with full spec and geometry. On-One Fatty


OK, curiousity has got the better off me. That's me down for one.

I'll probably use it in the 'Puffer.

So much for my forthcoming ultra light build....

I reckon it should have been called the Shiggy-Shaggy


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

+1 on the order list! Shame I've got to wait till December!!

Just packed up "skinny" full-suss in a bike bag for a trip to Iceland tomorrow, hope it doesn't spoil my trip thinking the whole time round I have the wrong bike


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

2 things I'd like

A 135mm adapter.

The ability to steepen the head angle. Sticking a Pug fork on it may do the job.


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

It's a 55mm rake fork, so consider that.

Also you can use a Slackset in, um, Steepset mode to change the HA.


----------



## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

Just put my pre-order in! I hope Xmas comes early this year. 

The wheels look good drilled but the pics have a disclaimer final spec subject to change. I'm assuming that's the reason the wheel spec says "fat" as they may be undrilled.


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

I'm pretty sure the production ones are un-drilled.


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

shaggyjohn said:


> They are lighter than my 120tpi Nates and will cost a bunch less.


That was the goal. About the same weight and aggressive tread.


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

shaggyjohn said:


> It's a 55mm rake fork, so consider that.
> 
> Also you can use a Slackset in, um, Steepset mode to change the HA.


I have. I've got a spreadsheet of the various fork sizes which gives me the effect on the geometry.

I'm sure the Fatty will be great out of the box for XC use, and I'll be giving it a good try before changing anything*.

That said, my biggest problem with bike control is hitting ruts at speed (especially in snow) and I prefer a steep HA with decent trail for that - seems to be more controllable.

Is there a Slackset that works with a tapered steering head?

*Actually not strictly true. I'll be stripping off stuff I don't like such as derailleurs, hydraulics, putting on a Middleburn with eccentrics, and working out how to fit mudguards.


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Fair enough- the Pug fork would do that to a small extent.


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

shaggyjohn said:


> Fair enough- the Pug fork would do that to a small extent.


Roughly 70.2º for HA, +4.5mm onto trail, but 21mm lower BB (approx because I don't have the wheelbase figure).


----------



## Nelson34 (Apr 21, 2009)

Sorry if this is a repeat question-but WHEN is it going to be available? Any idea if available in just a frameset?


----------



## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

Nelson34 said:


> Sorry if this is a repeat question-but WHEN is it going to be available? Any idea if available in just a frameset?


Completes only. Early December. From their site.


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

I'm buying the bike to get the frame.

I'd suggest if you want one for this winter, you do the same because I suspect it will be well into 2013 before they get more.

I've already got a stack of stuff I have been accumulating for a lightweight build, so I'll put all the "spare" bits onto a new Mukluk frame I have, which will then appear on eBay.

Does anyone know if the front fork uses a F or R disk calliper?


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Anybody thinking about turing this into an On-One Krampus by using the Rabbit Hole/knard combo? I know this is the "Fat" forum, but I figure some of y'all might be down with, ya know, 29+.


----------



## Nelson34 (Apr 21, 2009)

ljracer said:


> Completes only. Early December. From their site.


Thankd


----------



## twestis (Dec 18, 2007)

Nice looking bike!

Do you have any info on the weight of the wheel? Rims and hubs?


----------



## Smallfurry (Jul 8, 2009)

I Just want the tyres.

Although, I'd be tempted by the rims, if they look like a worthwhile upgrade from my home drilled GFSs.


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Front caliper.


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

shaggyjohn said:


> Front caliper.


Ta!


----------



## Dr Feelygood ! (Jun 16, 2006)

Is it possible to buy a complete with a raw (unpainted) frame at all please ?


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Dr Feelygood ! said:


> Is it possible to buy a complete with a raw (unpainted) frame at all please ?


Highly unlikely in a raw state, but frame only will be available at some point.
Infact, frame only could be available right now, but price would be £999 and you'd get all the other bits free.


----------



## Dr Feelygood ! (Jun 16, 2006)

brant said:


> Highly unlikely in a raw state, but frame only will be available at some point.
> Infact, frame only could be available right now, but price would be £999 and you'd get all the other bits free.


Bargain


----------



## 127 (May 30, 2008)

I am just between 16 or 18 sizes, because I am 176 cm short with 80 cm inseam.
16 size has odd short ett (570 mm) for On One. If it has typical ett (590 mm) for On One in size
16, it would be my choise. Now I am afraid if I choose size 16, it could be too cramped with short
50/60 mm stem, which I definitely want for snappy handling. The Fat will be for snow riding and
for techical trails, not for touring. 16 or 18, that is the question


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

All the frames have huge stand over height. TT is whats important here. If you are going to be cramped I'd go for the medium. My inseam isnt much longer than yours but I ride a large.


----------



## kcaz (Nov 2, 2004)

Can we get a weight on the large please? Thanks. Super stoked for get mine!


----------



## doco (Aug 31, 2008)

On-One Fatty


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

kcaz said:


> Can we get a weight on the large please? Thanks. Super stoked for get mine!


Our small is 32lb


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

brant said:


> Our small is 32lb


So, get rid of the gearie bits, and it's below 30lb. Not bad.


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

*Ok took the plunge!*

Please keep us updated with how the shipping is going please?! Off to Finland this winter - would be sweet to take it with!


----------



## col200 (Apr 20, 2004)

Looks like Pre-orders are up at Titus


----------



## Turtle01 (Sep 20, 2005)

Yeah, but isn't it sad that you can order from the UK site for about $100 (ok, $83.95 shipping to Ohio) less than the USA/Titus site? That's even after shipping has been added in to each order.


----------



## col200 (Apr 20, 2004)

That's true. Kinda funny too since I'm pretty sure I read a post on here somewhere from TitusTi that said "we eat the shipping and customs fees from the UK". Sure doesn't seem like it.  Might have to cancel my order and just get it from On-one this time.


----------



## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

Yeah, it was $150 cheaper to order it from the UK for me (in Canada)....


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Thanks for the feedback. We will be addressing this with a reprice today (lowering the US $ price, not increasing the UK!)


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Fatty now $1449 in the USA.

It should be noted that people commenting on price disparities are probably forgetting to add the potential tax+duty that should be added on import.

Evading these might result in a lower price, but...


----------



## opnykanen (May 3, 2007)

Are there price benefits with pre ordering?


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## col200 (Apr 20, 2004)

I pre-ordered from Titus before the price change. Still shows the original price on my bank statement. I'm assuming I'll be credited the difference?

The wait is killing me. My Pugs/Kluk friends are already doing some fall riverbank rides here in Minnesota. I patiently wait. :cryin:


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

From the On-One product blurb...

"Futureproofed with a 470mm fork length, we're ready for the fat front suspension revolution too."

Very intriguing!! Flames are a bit too pricey ATM (cost as much as the rest of the bike) Hopefully some other options are being explored :idea:

I'm already considering a set of 29ers on Hope FatsNos for more touring / bike packing. With a set of suspension forks this would be perfect!


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

I am getting some fat hubbed 29er wheels to fit in there.


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## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

brant said:


> I am getting some fat hubbed 29er wheels to fit in there.


Great news.

Something along the lines of your XC line, but with enlarged hubs? (This would suit me down to the ground, I'm pretty easy on wheels!)


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

exigetastic said:


> Great news.
> 
> Something along the lines of your XC line, but with enlarged hubs? (This would suit me down to the ground, I'm pretty easy on wheels!)


They will be our trail rim. 21mm internal. I wanted something solid.


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

brant said:


> They will be our trail rim. 21mm internal. I wanted something solid.


Actually that makes a lot of sense for the Fatty :thumbsup:


----------



## Guest (Oct 27, 2012)

exigetastic said:


> From the On-One product blurb...
> 
> "Futureproofed with a 470mm fork length, we're ready for the fat front suspension revolution too."
> 
> ...


squishy forks are slowly making their presence felt :thumbsup: but whom will take the big leap for full squish??


----------



## LostBoyScout (Feb 7, 2008)

Glad to see someone putting a 31.6mm post on their fatty. That's my one gripe with the Muk. IMO every new mountain bike should come with a 30.9 or 31.6mm post, exceptions allowed for steel frames. I really like the option of running a Reverb dropper post.


----------



## sryanak (Aug 9, 2008)

LostBoyScout said:


> Glad to see someone putting a 31.6mm post on their fatty.


My wife's two year old Alu Fatback has a 31.6 post.


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

brant said:


> Fatty now $1449 in the USA.
> 
> It should be noted that people commenting on price disparities are probably forgetting to add the potential tax+duty that should be added on import.
> 
> Evading these might result in a lower price, but...


In NZ we get hit up for tax by customs on anything over $400  5 Shipaments FTW!


----------



## 98srx6 (Jun 25, 2012)

Can any of the guys from OnOne confirm if and when the "Floater" tire will be available by itself?


----------



## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Very interested in this bike. Can anyone provide some opinions on sizing? I'm in the overlap between a 16" & 18" at 5'9" with 30" inseam. I generally ride mediums on my other bikes ('13 stumpy, '09 demo) just unsure of how the fit would be considering these humungo tires. Are there any hard specs for Geo with TT lengths and such?


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

bad andy said:


> Very interested in this bike. Can anyone provide some opinions on sizing? I'm in the overlap between a 16" & 18" at 5'9" with 30" inseam. I generally ride mediums on my other bikes ('13 stumpy, '09 demo) just unsure of how the fit would be considering these humungo tires. Are there any hard specs for Geo with TT lengths and such?


Geometry is listed on this page (under geometry tab at bottom of page).

On-One Fatty


----------



## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

brant said:


> Geometry is listed on this page (under geometry tab at bottom of page).
> 
> On-One Fatty


Ahh, thanks Brant. Think I'm sold... now how to bring it into the house without wifey noticing. And it's hard not to notice a white bike with humungo tires


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

$1350 plus shipping on the Titus/Planet X site. Heck of a great deal. Almost too cheap not to buy. Too bad the rims aren't drilled too, as in the web pics, or this would be the steal of the year in fat bike land...and that's not a complaint either because the "Fatty" is arguably "the deal" this year.


----------



## sryanak (Aug 9, 2008)

bluestatevirgin said:


> $1350 plus shipping on the Titus/Planet X site. Heck of a great deal. Almost too cheap not to buy. Too bad the rims aren't drilled too, as in the web pics, or this would be the steal of the year in fat bike land...and that's not a complaint either because the "Fatty" is arguably "the deal" this year.


Drilling rims is easy. Several threads about that on this site.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

I am really looking forward to rollin this Fatty... :arf:


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## TitanofChaos (Jun 13, 2011)

I just spent my winter funds to go 1/2 fat and now this...... I'm going to need another job


----------



## shothar (Sep 26, 2012)

I tried to read trough this thread, but didn't find the answer.
Are there any plans for making even bigger frame? Something like 620-630mm TT?
Thanks!


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Probably. I'm at the top end of the large size so it would suit me ;-)


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## shothar (Sep 26, 2012)

Thank you! Hopefully there will be XL frame for bigger riders!
L -size might be enough with 90-100mm stem and wide bar. Current bike has 620mm TT and feels a bit short. Too bad that cannot test the bike before purchase.


----------



## Tincup69 (Sep 5, 2012)

I"m seriously considering getting in on the pre-order for one of these but have a question. I have a Sarris Bones 2 rack, will this fit in it?


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Hard to tell without trying it, and I don't know anyone with one, but I would have thought you could get it to fit with some extra straps.


----------



## Tincup69 (Sep 5, 2012)

EDIT.

It looks like Sarris makes an adapter for frames like this, sweet.


----------



## flashes (Jun 30, 2009)

It will work. I have had my Pugsley od it, it does block the lights a "tad" and you need extra bungies.....


----------



## col200 (Apr 20, 2004)

Are any Fatty's being released ahead of time to magazine's or something for impressions? It's killing me to not get some kinda of feedback on this bike while I'm waiting for my own :madman:


----------



## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

col200 said:


> Are any Fatty's being released ahead of time to magazine's or something for impressions? It's killing me to not get some kinda of feedback on this bike while I'm waiting for my own :madman:


Yeah, I'm getting kind of anxious. "Need Input!!" Short Circuit 2 - Major Input - YouTube

Any updates on whether release is on schedule?


----------



## custardninja (Apr 13, 2006)

Surely if you've ordered it already, it's a bit too late to be worrying about feedback?


----------



## sryanak (Aug 9, 2008)

custardninja said:


> Surely if you've ordered it already, it's a bit too late to be worrying about feedback?


It's all about validation. I know I've been there while waiting for a new toy.


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

sryanak said:


> It's all about validation. I know I've been there while waiting for a new toy.


Shaggy loves it. And whilst Shaggy is sponsored by us, I could never pay Shaggy enough money to compromise him. Because Shaggy is no sell out.

Make of that what you will.


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

brant said:


> Shaggy loves it. And whilst Shaggy is sponsored by us, I could never pay Shaggy enough money to compromise him. Because Shaggy is no sell out...


That's why I ordered one - based on Shaggy's assessment.

Of course, if I don't win the 'Puffer* on it, I'll want my money back. 

*Edit: just in case anyone thinks I believe I have a chance at that, the reality is my usual position is about 2/3 way down the field, and no bike is going to make much change in that. Well, maybe gears and suspension would, but I'm saving that for when I'm old and frail.


----------



## damnitman (Jan 30, 2008)

So'd you guys (and gals) come up with a cool name other than "Fatty"? Not that I'm biased or anything, just seems that a company that can name a frame "Whippet" could be more creative than "Fatty"...just sayin...


----------



## christopherscott (Oct 31, 2012)

want to see the whole bike


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

Hi chaps, how about an update on the ETA? Would be good to have a date to look forward to, so I can make sure there's someone at home when this gets dropped offf?


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

fyford said:


> Hi chaps, how about an update on the ETA? Would be good to have a date to look forward to, so I can make sure there's someone at home when this gets dropped offf?


We're still somewhat at the mercy of customs, floods, plagues of locusts and following winds to be able to determine an exact DAY from this far out when someone needs to be at home.

But we're still confident about it all arriving for us to start firing them out early December.


----------



## col200 (Apr 20, 2004)

custardninja said:


> Surely if you've ordered it already, it's a bit too late to be worrying about feedback?


Obviously, I know what I ordered, I'm just getting antsy to ride the thing and a preview of some sort is the closest thing I can get at the moment.

I will try to contain my excitement.


----------



## jfjobin (Mar 19, 2011)

Clearance for bud and Lou on 100mm rims ?
or any info on max clearance?


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Brant posted clearance info on shedfire, I'm too new to be able to link yet.


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

IIRC max clearance on the rear is 123mm, 135 on the forks. The Fatty isn't really intended for 100mm rims though, as IMO they don't make good trail rims.


----------



## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

*Bottom bracket drop?*

I haven't seen it mentioned, and it isn't on the geometry chart. Does anyone know the bottom bracket drop. Thanks!


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

builder said:


> I haven't seen it mentioned, and it isn't on the geometry chart. Does anyone know the bottom bracket drop. Thanks!


47.5mm


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Anyone want to buy a kidney? I'll throw in some free stones.

@ Shaggy, you ran a magic gear on your fatty, what was the ratio if you remember?


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Did I? I don't trust magic gears.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

ok, I'll try to find the post again. might have been someone else


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

shaggyjohn said:


> I haven't got a good shot of a small. This is one though.
> 
> 
> Muddy Fatty by Shaggy John, on Flickr


There's this post, but I don't know if it's your bike. I'll try to find the other post mentioning the magic gear use.


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Ah, yeah. Not my bike.

You've seen this, right?
http://eehouse.org/fixin/fixmeup.php


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

brant said:


> 47.5mm


That's a bit higher than most other fatbikes. I think that'll be handy on the rocky stuff.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Yes, I've seen that site. Thanks anyway Shaggy.

If I had to guess from that pic, it looks like 32:17 (using a half link), just a little tall for my liking. There's always other options for tensioning a ss anyway.


----------



## drofluf (Dec 12, 2010)

brant said:


> 47.5mm


I assume you mean cm?

Or are you going for a ground effect bb?


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

drofluf said:


> I assume you mean cm?
> 
> Or are you going for a ground effect bb?


47.5 cm bb drop would be a crude rotary hoe.


----------



## hbourj (Nov 20, 2012)

brant said:


> We're still somewhat at the mercy of customs, floods, plagues of locusts and following winds to be able to determine an exact DAY from this far out when someone needs to be at home.


And a blocus of the Vienna Express by Egypt on the Suez Canal.  The increasing war in Gaza could make the "muslim brothers" egyptian government slow down or block the traffic. To put pressure on the international community, to support the Palestinian. Which could result in delays. However, this channel is a huge source of income for the Egyptian government. Channel block is a double-edged sword. :nono:

Mabe the Fattys can escape rolling on the sand in the desert.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Yet another frame spec question. Does the bottom bracket have a 2.5mm spacer that can be removed from the drive side? Just wondering if use of a yess etr-b might help make SS work with this frame.


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Velobike said:


> That's a bit higher than most other fatbikes. I think that'll be handy on the rocky stuff.


It's a trail bike.


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

drofluf said:


> I assume you mean cm?
> 
> Or are you going for a ground effect bb?


No. I mean mm.

BB Drop is the dimension the BB centre is below the wheel centreline.


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Stevob said:


> Yet another frame spec question. Does the bottom bracket have a 2.5mm spacer that can be removed from the drive side? Just wondering if use of a yess etr-b might help make SS work with this frame.


It doesn't, but the BB has a E-specification thingy and deep cups so it should be all fine.


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Stevob said:


> Yes, I've seen that site. Thanks anyway Shaggy.
> 
> If I had to guess from that pic, it looks like 32:17 (using a half link), just a little tall for my liking. There's always other options for tensioning a ss anyway.


It was 32:16 from memory.


----------



## drofluf (Dec 12, 2010)

brant said:


> No. I mean mm.
> 
> BB Drop is the dimension the BB centre is below the wheel centreline.


My mistake  I thought BB drop was the clearance betwee BB and gound.

Thanks for clarifying!


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Thanks Brant!


----------



## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

brant said:


> 47.5mm


I'm thinking on buying a Fatty bike but the BB drop stops me.

I'll be my first fat frame, other frame goes from about 55 to 60, even the beargrease from Salsa that's thinked for suspension fork (I think so).

So, my question is: If I put a suspended fork (let's say 80mm) on the Fatty, how the feeling could change?


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

The Fatty comes with a 470mm rigid fork, which is approximately the same length as an 80mm sagged suspension fork, so other than the difference in offset, it should feel much the same wrt bb height etc.


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

bricke said:


> I'm thinking on buying a Fatty bike but the BB drop stops me...


I've found the BB on fatbikes is often too low for the sort of places it can take me. Sticking to singletrack and the sort of places I take my 29er, no problem.

But once I venture into proper offroad I'm banging my feet too often, so the higher BB on the On-One should be better.


----------



## motorman (May 30, 2011)

Velobike said:


> I've found the BB on fatbikes is often too low for the sort of places it can take me. Sticking to singletrack and the sort of places I take my 29er, no problem.
> 
> But once I venture into proper offroad I'm banging my feet too often, so the higher BB on the On-One should be better.


Agreed, most fatbike BB are way too low for my liking, my 907 included. OK for stability, but for playing around in the woods/rock crawling, the on one BB height makes much more sense.


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Velobike said:


> I've found the BB on fatbikes is often too low for the sort of places it can take me. Sticking to singletrack and the sort of places I take my 29er, no problem.
> 
> But once I venture into proper offroad I'm banging my feet too often, so the higher BB on the On-One should be better.


It's a trail bike


----------



## motorman (May 30, 2011)

brant said:


> It's a trail bike


So you keep telling us

Interested, if this bike is all so trail focused, why have you speced 80mm rims? Most folk on here would use 47mm rims would fit the bill better? Seems good enough for Sandman "trail" bikes.



















Funny, I was out riding trails in the Cairngorms at the weekend with another fatty & 2 other bikes. Some of the best trails in the country & we all had to grind away on the granny ring to paddle through the soft stuff & get traction on the rear. If I had bought an On one, I would be pushing my way up. Just sayin.


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

There's a good question I guess, I've seen someone else ask, but missed the answer if there was one. Could the FATTY take a granny ring setup or not at all?


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

For those SS'ers out there it looks like 32:20 with a slight bit of chain stretch might work as a magic gear. Nice climbing ratio.


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

I ordered an On-One Fatty after the email below. I plan to go 2x10, exact details TBD. My guess is that On-One went 1x10 to keep the price at 1000 GBP. With 127 tpi tires, hydraulic disks, etc. something had to give. (Brits call a derailleur a "mech" BTW)



> Me: But are the cable guides/stops there for me to make the bike a 2x or 3x if I buy one? The pictures on your website seem to show them...





> Hi
> 
> just had a look at the technical drawings. they certainly do have the mounts for the front mech cable routing.
> 
> ...


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

motorman said:


> Interested, if this bike is all so trail focused, why have you speced 80mm rims? Most folk on here would use 47mm rims would fit the bill better? Seems good enough for Sandman "trail" bikes.


It comes with 70mm rims. I have 47 and 70 mm wheelsets for my Sandman. I prefer the tyre profile of the 70's. Also I don't think a 70mm rim won't allow the tyre to fit in the Flame forks. Don't you get banned from here for suggesting to go thinner? 

Specing is always going to be a compromise. People on here want 100mm rims and 47mm rims, 135 rear ends and 170 rear ends, more gears and fewer gears... You can't please everyone all the time. I hope people like it, because IMO it's a great bike, especially at the £1000 price point.


----------



## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

shaggyjohn said:


> It comes with 70mm rims. I have 47 and 70 mm wheelsets for my Sandman. I prefer the tyre profile of the 70's. Also I don't think a 70mm rim won't allow the tyre to fit in the Flame forks. Don't you get banned from here for suggesting to go thinner?


I had to dig deep to find this picture, it's the Flame with a 80mm rim and a HD. It should ring a bell .
For trail riding I personally prefer the 47mm's. With each size up you feel the bike becoming more sluggish in the steering compartment. For slow trail work and rock crawling even 100mm's are ok, but if you want to nail it...


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Am I being scammed, or is this for real? I am at the planetX website to order one of these, and it is less than $1400 shipped to my house. Is this the real deal. Is this not the best deal ever on a fat bike?


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

well, I just ordered it. only were showing one size: 18", which is a little small, but definitely ridable if the TT is decent length.


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

I went to look again if another size was available, and none are shown. I guess I picked the last one.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

yes, it is the best deal ever...just wish I had enough valuable unused parts and crap lying around that I could sell to get one


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Stevob said:


> yes, it is the best deal ever...just wish I had enough valuable unused parts and crap lying around that I could sell to get one


how about a job? then you could buy things without having to sell anything.


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

well, when I get my Fatty, I'll probably want to start working on a lefty conversion. I couldn't find any info on the Fatty's actual production geometry. I will want to know fork offset, and head angle, head tube ID's, and axle to crown #s. If anyone has these for the production 18" bike please share or repeat if I missed them.


----------



## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

caminoloco said:


>


Have you tried that Front HuDu the other way around? I was wondering f it was a conscious decision to fit it that way.


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

You might still be able to order it from On-One in the UK. It will cost more to ship, though.

http : //www . on-one.co.uk/i/q/CBOOFATX5/on_one_fatty

(Delete the spaces)


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Cost would be $1,462.31 from the UK per their website.


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

I noticed that you could do that, and there were a few options to choose different parts as no cost options(very limited). I had already completed my order through PlanetX USA though. I think I will contact them about top tube lengths for the 18" and 20", as well as standover clearance. If the 20" has similar crotch clearance, I may want to change to that, because I have short legs and a long upper body(6'2", 31" inseam). I also prefer a short stem.

I really like the double top tube design. It reminds me of a BMX I remember from the 80s, Skyway, I think, or maybe it was a Torker. I wish they made it in a ball burnished or polished and clearcoated to show it off more. I haven't seen any of their frames before. are they high quality, and are they durable? Anyone know where they are made? At the price, I am assuming they are made where most everything else is: China, but that doesn't mean it can't be high quality.
I guess I could strip it and get it shot peened with steel balls. It would strengthen the metal, as well as leaving it a nice shiny aluminum finish. That was the finish on my AMP built Mongoose Amplifier that had a double downtube. Or, a nice purple or blue anodized finish would look good too. Most likely, unless the paint chips off too much, it will stay white though.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

autodoctor911 said:


> how about a job? then you could buy things without having to sell anything.


Do you mean work for money? Money for me? Not the family and mortgage?


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

ok, then get rid of the family, or the mortgage, or both.


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

hey, anybody know if the on-one bb chain guard listed as part of the fatty buid spec means it has the three bolt holes? if so a hammerschmidt should fit right on with the howitzer bb already in place.


----------



## 127 (May 30, 2008)

autodoctor911 said:


> hey, anybody know if the on-one bb chain guard listed as part of the fatty buid spec means it has the three bolt holes? if so a hammerschmidt should fit right on with the howitzer bb already in place.


It says bottom bracket chain guard. I has not iscg taps.


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Fatty chainstay clearance from Shedfire










I'm over 10 posts so I can post links and images now!


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

127 said:


> It says bottom bracket chain guard. I has not iscg taps.


I wonder if it will take a front mech and a 44/32, using the same crank and rear mech.

I do plan on airing the tires up and flying down some roads, dirt and paved.

I might be able to figure out the chainring clearance from that drawing, but I don't want to have to study that hard.

If the crank needs to move out, and there isn't any room left on the other side, who else makes a ISIS spline BB that might be longer spindle?

44 might be more than I need, but I will put whatever the biggest I can fit, since I can't really go smaller than 32 on the small ring.

I'm not really that worried about putting a granny gear anyways. I won't be going in any deep sand, and I'd just as soon walk as go really slow on the bike anyways. I've never used the small ring on most triple gear crank mtbs I've ridden anyways.


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

I'm planning on doing the opposite of you ad911; 2x10 with probably a 24-36-bash. I'm assuming that I'll need to buy a new crank, though.

There are hills to climb where I live!


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

JoeG said:


> I'm planning on doing the opposite of you ad911; 2x10 with probably a 24-36-bash. I'm assuming that I'll need to buy a new crank, though.
> 
> There are hills to climb where I live!


the Salsa Muk 2 right crank arm would bolt up to the howitzer BB, I think. That would give you the gears, but no bash guard. I don't know if you will have tire clearance with a triple and be able to use the lower gears that it provides.


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

looks like the Mister Whirly right arm might be ISIS, while the left side is like a BMX. so, you could do that also, if that is the case.


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

I was thinking about a new Race Face crankset and BB. Then I'd be on a more current external BB, so spares/replacements would be easy to find.

Fatbike BBs are about the only place that ISIS is still used. They never were good, and spares will be hard to find going forward. 

I have no experience with them but the Howitzer looks pretty good at a glance, sort of a hybrid of ISIS (splines) and external BB (cups). Its probably what ISIS should have been in the first place. However, its proprietary and isn't very widely used as far as I can tell. I'm concerned that spares will be hard to come by in the future.


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

And to throw another crank/chain ring question into the mix, can the crank take a 22 chainring in addtion to the 32 it's specked with? Or is a different once needed. (And would a small ring clear the frame and the chain clear the tyre?)

Tim


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

JoeG said:


> I was thinking about a new Race Face crankset and BB. Then I'd be on a more current external BB, so spares/replacements would be easy to find.
> 
> Fatbike BBs are about the only place that ISIS is still used. They never were good, and spares will be hard to find going forward.
> 
> I have no experience with them but the Howitzer looks pretty good at a glance, sort of a hybrid of ISIS (splines) and external BB (cups). Its probably what ISIS should have been in the first place. However, its proprietary and isn't very widely used as far as I can tell. I'm concerned that spares will be hard to come by in the future.


the raceface fatbike cranks are ISIS too, only they call it EXI, because they have a propietary feature to the arms where you can use the cap and centerbolt to pull the arms. I think the FSA fatbike cranks are isis also.

As far as adding rings to the Howitzers, If you want to go smaller than 28, your going to probably have to use the E13 dual shiftrings for SS XCX cranks, for around $97.

I think a 64/104bcd double would fit just fine, as long as the big ring clears the frame(probably up to 40t, no problem) I want to try 44t.


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

I think the only modern axle cranks are the E13 triple, and the Surly O.D.


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

I think for granny gears the best bet will be a husslefelt triple, as long as the chain clears the tire.


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

It looks like the raceface cranks have the spindle built into the left arm, and the right side is ISIS.
and I only have seen a couple models for sale in 100mm BB. They list the turbine under fatbike cranks, but I can't seem to find them for sale. this seems to be their best shifting ring crankset for 2x10, or 3x10.
maybe I can get just a right arm with chainrings. that should fit my Howitzer BB, and I can just keep the Husslefelt left arm. Maybe that's the ticket for a nice triple or double without having to spend $350 on a E13.


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Okay, I have a headache now. I thought that Race Face used an external BB system that was compatible with cranks from other manufacturers like Shimano. :madman:

An ISIS BB is a cartridge BB that looks like this:









The current Race Face lineup doesn't use and ISIS BB, though they do still sell an ISIS BB for use with older cranks. The current RF BBs look like this:








which I understand are interchangeable with other manufacturers external BBs.

The spline pattern on the crank arm that interfaces with the spindle may be the 10 spline ISIS pattern, but that is irrelevant since I'm not going to use one Race Face crank arm and the other from a different manufacturer.

Race Face has a page on their fat bike cranks and BBs Race Face 2012. As far as I can tell, all that Race Face had to do to make their various cranks compatible with the 100 mm fat bike BB standard was to:

1 - Put a longer spindle on their left crank so that it would reack all the way through a 100 mm BB,

2. Include a longer tube wetween the left and right BB cup and bearing assemblies.

I'm looking at the RF cranks because I'd like something that is more widely used that ISIS or the Truvativ Howitzer. Is anything that I've written above incorrect?


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

JoeG said:


> Okay, I have a headache now. I thought that Race Face used an external BB system that was compatible with cranks from other manufacturers like Shimano. :madman:
> 
> An ISIS BB is a cartridge BB that looks like this:
> 
> ...


Thanks for posting that. My understanding of the problem with ISIS BBs wasn't the spindle interface, but the fact that the larger diameter spindle meant the bearings had to be smaller. According to that Race Face site these cranks come with an external BB so they should address this issue. Having an ISIS interface shouldn't be a problem.

Tim


----------



## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

JoeG - I have the RaceFace cranks and can confirm what you've said in your post. I've been running them for a year now and they are just fine. You need to use the axle shims to adjust chainline a little and it took me a wee while to find them (they were all mounted on the axle :crazy: )


----------



## Guest (Nov 26, 2012)

druidh said:


> JoeG - I have the RaceFace cranks and can confirm what you've said in your post. I've been running them for a year now and they are just fine. You need to use the axle shims to adjust chainline a little and it took me a wee while to find them (they were all mounted on the axle :crazy: )


echo this however when i received mine it had a small ziploc bag with spare shims which i proceeded to use up.


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Thanks Wombat, druidh, and nvphatty for confirming what I said. I agree that the issue with ISIS was the tiny ball bearings that wore out quickly, not the crank/spindle interface.

I'm glad that the RF cranks appear to be an option. The fat bike market might not be large enough for Shimano and SRAM to get into, but I think that Race Face may very well do a nice bit of business with their fat bike cranks!

Now I just need my Fatty to get here!


----------



## Guest (Nov 26, 2012)

*tease pic*

no worries mate.


----------



## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

Somebody knows if the Relevate Design frame bag (designed for Salsa Mukluk) will fit the on-one fatty frame?


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

JoeG said:


> Okay, I have a headache now. I thought that Race Face used an external BB system that was compatible with cranks from other manufacturers like Shimano. :madman:
> 
> An ISIS BB is a cartridge BB that looks like this:
> 
> ...


the howitzer ISIS BB does not look like the standard internal(small) bearing like you are thinking either. In fact the only real difference between the howitzer setup and RaceFace is that on the howitzer, the left arm comes off of the axle, just like the right arm. In fact, I believe the howitzer BB should fit the RF cranks if you pull the axle out. Everyone claims to have the best BB bearings, but I have a feeling any of the external bearing BBs are going to hold up fine, but I bet Chris king, which also now makes a fat version of their external cup BB would be the best, so if you don't care about cost, and you want a double that has great range and shifting, just get the E13 SS fat cranks bare, and a 22/36 shiftring and the Chris king BB.
I am trying to find a way to go double on the front without spending much money, and would like to reuse as much as possible of what I will have, since the howitzer/Holzfeller is a very nice crank, but since they list different part#s for the single arms and the double/triple, I assume the ones that come with one ring only have the 104mm bolt holes, so a granny would require a new right arm.


----------



## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

*It's December!*

How is the early December ship date looking? Any hint of a specific date?

thanks!


----------



## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

I believe the UK-bound ship arrives in dock tomorrow.....


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Without going back through the entire thread to find the answer, are the rims single wall?


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Yes they are.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Thanks shaggy


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

For those who have pre-ordered from the UK site, did you get confirmation by email?

Tim


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

I preordered from the US site and got 2 with the same date and time:

First - "Planet X USA LLC Customer Receipt/Purchase Confirmation"
Second - "shop.titusti.com Order Confirmation"


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

Wombat said:


> For those who have pre-ordered from the UK site, did you get confirmation by email?
> 
> Tim


I got a response from the bike build team a couple of days ago, but only because there was some admin confusion because I ordered it as cycle to work, but we run a "self administered scheme" here.

Long story short I had to contact them to confirm they had received payment on order, rather than a cycle to work voucher. (I got a chase email from them).

The email did mention the 4th as the day bikes arrive in UK.


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

druidh said:


> I believe the UK-bound ship arrives in dock tomorrow.....


Though that ship only contains wheels, frames and forks.
Tyres are here today.
Groupsets are here too.
Rim tape is still at B&Q.


----------



## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

brant said:


> Rim tape is still at B&Q.


I have to pop along there this morning. Anything else you need?


----------



## hbourj (Nov 20, 2012)

Need elves of Santa Claus to assemble bikes ?


----------



## 127 (May 30, 2008)

Well, looks finally like, that I have to clear space for "Trail bike" in my warehouse.


----------



## lactat (Nov 6, 2004)

Sold out in US?
Does not look if orders can be done via planetx site - via UK only?


----------



## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

Wombat said:


> For those who have pre-ordered from the UK site, did you get confirmation by email?
> 
> Tim


Not yet.
Helen says to me that my order is in the "build dept" now. But no official mail yet.
She said also that an email will arrive when the bike will be dispatched.

So, i'm waiting...


----------



## Lotte.2000 (Dec 18, 2010)

My request today!

"HI

the delivery of the parts to build the Fatty's has just arrived. our warehouse staff are in the process of booking that in and locating it. builds on the bikes should be under way by the end of next week. we should have the earliest orders out of the door by the end of the week.

regards

Charlie
Customer Service Advisor 

Planet X & On-One
Unit 6
Ignite Business Park
Magna Way
Templeborough
Rotherham
S60 1FE"


So, I am waiting and looking forward....


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Any info on the US ones?


----------



## 127 (May 30, 2008)

Is there now something problem with 16 inch size building, because it has now marked available end of January 2013 Other sizes are still marked available early December.


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

The first batch of 16" frames has sold out. January is the second batch.


----------



## Johnclimber (Jan 9, 2008)

127 said:


> Is there now something problem with 16 inch size building, because it has now marked available end of January 2013 Other sizes are still marked available early December.


Don't think so, I ordered mine yesterday over the phone and nothing was mentioned about any delay


----------



## 127 (May 30, 2008)

shaggyjohn said:


> The first batch of 16" frames has sold out. January is the second batch.


Huh huh, what relief. I will get mine from first batch, cos i ordered it on middle of October.


----------



## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

Maybe we need some clarification: have all the US 16" bikes been pre-sold with some UK models still available?


----------



## Johnclimber (Jan 9, 2008)

If it's January it's January, it doesn't matter I've already got a Mukluk ;-)


----------



## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

UK 16" have all gone until January (as shown on the website). I think it's the same in the US but not sure.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Have the US Bikes arrived? Is there any chance of getting delivery before Christmas?


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

I just got in touch with the US office. They said that the frames and forks arrived yesterday (Dec 5)! 

They should start shipping them out to customers early next week. :thumbsup:

Unfortunately, I'm most of the way across the country, so mine will take a week to ship. :sad:

But it looks like I will get at least one ride on it before the world ends according to the Mayans.


----------



## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

The On One Fatty. - The last bike you'll ever need


----------



## Titus/On One USA (Jul 27, 2011)

JoeG said:


> I just got in touch with the US office. They said that the frames and forks arrived yesterday (Dec 5)!
> 
> They should start shipping them out to customers early next week. :thumbsup:
> 
> ...


Frames and forks did arrive yesterday but we are still waiting for some bits to show up. We will begin the build process and as soon as we have a firm confirmation of ship date, we will reach out and let every customer know that their bike is on the way.


----------



## Montster (Feb 17, 2005)

*Next Round of On One?*

When will the next round start? Orders are not being taken yet. Delay is just pushing me towards a Surly.


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Short video of Ed Oxley riding a Fatty in the snow 

1 Minute of Winter on Vimeo


----------



## 127 (May 30, 2008)

So boring at work. Could someone from On One send work shop picture where your staff build Fatties and couple nice pictures of production model.


----------



## Lars Thomsen (Jul 28, 2011)

*fatty complete bike photos link *

fatty complete bike photos - shedfire's dumping ground:thumbsup:


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Thanks Lars!

Hmmm...orange decals...that's a curveball that I wasn't expecting!  Not real sure that I like them. I also don't like the "Fatty" decal on the seat tube, but I guess that the skinny top tubes don't leave anywhere else to put it.

Everything else looks real good, though. Now I just need mine to get here!!!


----------



## 127 (May 30, 2008)

Thank you for the pictures. Orange decals are much better than black ones. Good looking bike.

Hopefully Santa will bring mine and now I can only listen Morrissey's You are the one for me, Fatty.:thumbsup:


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## Guest (Dec 10, 2012)

very sharp :thumbsup:


----------



## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

Super sharp!! Love the ORANGE :thumbsup:!!!!!!!!


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Noice. First buyer to get one, drill their rims and put some cool orange rim strips in wins!


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

just because I could...


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

> Noice. First buyer to get one, drill their rims and put some cool orange rim strips in wins!


That's one of the problems with the orange; I was planning white rim strips. Orange ones aren't made AFAIK, and matching the shade might be tough. And I have some additional decals in mind, too. Black ones would be easy to get, orange may be a headache to get right. And I'm colorblind, so what looks fine to me looks like crap to everyone else! :madman:

I want boring black! :cryin:


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

White would look good too. Or if you really wanted orange, just get someone to pick out some ribbon for you. I don't think it would have to be that close.


----------



## Guest (Dec 11, 2012)

Stevob said:


> Noice. First buyer to get one, drill their rims and put some cool orange rim strips in wins!


yup thats the ticket :thumbsup: not that i'm partial to wht/orange you see


----------



## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

$7 on eBay.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Nice. But I saw a giraffe patterned orange and white duct tape that would go brilliantly. Search for patterned duct tape.


----------



## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

Did you order one Stevo ?

Fat singlespeed coming soon ?


----------



## FSThompson (Oct 4, 2011)

Could someone please post one of the pictures of the On-One fatty? My network has blocked and banned almost everything fun...


----------



## cozz (Nov 26, 2009)

orange duck tape rules


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

Woo-hoo, just got a call to say the bike has been built and should be here tomorrow, but was warned it will come in two boxes because it's too big to fit in just one!! :thumbsup:

I am a bit worried now about the orange logos though. Do you think the bright colours aren't subtle enough and my new bike will draw lots of attention ?


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

exigetastic said:


> ...I am a bit worried now about the orange logos though. Do you think the bright colours aren't subtle enough and my new bike will draw lots of attention ?


Nah, no-one will notice. 

Probably because all the skinny tyre bikes are locked up in warm sheds and you'll be the only one out riding. :thumbsup:


----------



## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

Velobike said:


> Nah, no-one will notice.


Check out the "what people say" thread..... cant remember one about a fatty rolling up and people saying OMG look how bright the decals are


----------



## Guest (Dec 11, 2012)

There appears to be a significant amount of sarcasm tossed about in here has anyone seen or heard of it?? :skep:


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

ozzybmx said:


> Did you order one Stevo ?
> 
> Fat singlespeed coming soon ?


As much as I would like to answer in the affirmative, I'm afraid my response remains negative for now.

I have, however, planted a seed.:thumbsup:


----------



## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

Cant remember sarcasm being mentioned either, surprise it the usual emotion :thumbsup:


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

exigetastic said:


> I am a bit worried now about the orange logos though. Do you think the bright colours aren't subtle enough and my new bike will draw lots of attention ?


Draw attention? Like an Exige?










Btw, I've driven one of these orange beauties too.


----------



## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

First fatty arrives...
Fat Bike - On-One

I don't know if it's a joke or not... :skep:


----------



## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

bricke said:


> First fatty arrives..


Very nice mate, welcome to the fat world !


----------



## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

ozzybmx said:


> Very nice mate, welcome to the fat world !


That's not me.
My fatty will land next week I hope.


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## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

Going on other posts here, they are shipped and arriving soon.


----------



## Yoreskillz (Feb 10, 2011)

Oops duplicate post.:madman:


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## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

Stevob said:


> Draw attention? Like an Exige?
> 
> Btw, I've driven one of these orange beauties too.


Mine was* "magnetic blue", so far more subtle 

* Kept it 5 years from new, but finally gave in to my better half and bought something sensible. That photo reminds me how much I miss it. :sad::sad::sad:


----------



## Fatty On-One (Dec 11, 2012)

On-One Fatty, got the very 1st production model, collected it today it's been worth the wait. Hope you all get yours soon.:thumbsup:


----------



## col200 (Apr 20, 2004)

How's the fork flex? Noticed a lot of flex on some Surly's this weekend and wondered if that's a Surly thing or just a fatbike thing due to the huge wheels.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

exigetastic said:


> Mine was* "magnetic blue", so far more subtle
> 
> * Kept it 5 years from new, but finally gave in to my better half and bought something sensible. That photo reminds me how much I miss it. :sad::sad::sad:


Sad indeed. K series or toyota? I'll never forget the first time I drove the K series Exige. No power brakes/steering, and a power band that had to be felt to be appreciated. The Toyota powered Series 2 was much more refined. And then I drove the supercharged S. ZOMFG!

My condolences to you my friend. I still remember the adrenaline rush.

Back to regular programming.:thumbsup:


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Fatty On-One said:


> On-One Fatty, got the very 1st production model, collected it today it's been worth the wait. Hope you all get yours soon.:thumbsup:


Congrats. Ride report asap!


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Fatty On-One said:


> On-One Fatty, got the very 1st production model, collected it today it's been worth the wait. Hope you all get yours soon.:thumbsup:


is that the small, or medium?


----------



## el cap (Jul 22, 2009)

I'm on the wait list for the production round #2 (USA Store)


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

el cap said:


> I'm on the wait list for the production round #2 (USA Store)


I ordered mine on Black Friday. I got the last one of the first batch(usa)


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Did the chainring size change? I thought it said 34 first, now it says 32. Maybe I just had it wrong to start with.


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

ad911 - I think its always been 32. I want to go 24-36 on mine, though. But until mine gets here, I can't be sure that those rings will fit. Looking at the zip file of 4 photos from the O-O website, there is not much room for a bigger ring! Well, not with the same chainline, anyhow.


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

Well mines here! 

Just put it together it looks VERY sweet. 

I'm at work so the test ride report and picture upload will have to wait till lunchtime. If anyone wants any specific shots (e.g. chainset/ chainstay clearance or anything, let me know)

Si


----------



## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

exigetastic said:


> Well mines here!
> 
> Just put it together it looks VERY sweet.
> 
> ...


Great!:thumbsup:

Could you please show me the crankset? I mean the axle type (TA/ISIS/Howitzer) and if it's possiblie to mount a double without changhing the crank.
Another intresting part could be the rear QR, It's a standard QR?

Thanks.


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

If it's like the other holzefeller 1.1 cranks I've seen the 4x 64mm holes aren't drilled. It'd be nice if they were though.

the smallest chainring you can normally get for the 104mm cranks is 32t,
I found a 30t from extralite(italy). the only place to get it is their website, that I have found.

they also show a unique 42-28 combo ring that will bolt up to a 104mm crank. that would be a nice range for a 2x10 gearset. they are kind of light, possibly a bit more XC race, and would kind of be out of place on a DH crank.


----------



## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

autodoctor911 said:


> If it's like the other holzefeller 1.1 cranks I've seen the 4x 64mm holes aren't drilled. It'd be nice if they were though.
> 
> the smallest chainring you can normally get for the 104mm cranks is 32t,
> I found a 30t from extralite(italy). the only place to get it is their website, that I have found.
> ...


I'm Italian so bought an extralite components is not a big problem (It's very used here).
But I've also a friend that made some very nice components LINK and I usually bought this kind of stuff from he.


----------



## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

homebrewed components. This guy has a 31 tooth for a 104 bcd.....plus a lot of other sizes - and it's really good stuff.


----------



## BertRoot (Dec 7, 2012)

builder said:


> homebrewed components. This guy has a 31 tooth for a 104 bcd.....plus a lot of other sizes - and it's really good stuff.


From what I read he isn't delivering a great deal of stuff to folk who have paid him months ago though so may be good to avoid. 77 page thread on here somewhere.


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

*Some Piccies*

As you can tell v. excited!


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

.. and there's more :thumbsup:


----------



## Rabies010 (Jan 20, 2011)

Before ordering from HBC, i would read this thread !!
http://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/homebrewed-components-694887.html
Well over 1800+ post on very nice but hard to obtain stuff.


----------



## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

BertRoot said:


> From what I read he isn't delivering a great deal of stuff to folk who have paid him months ago though so may be good to avoid. 77 page thread on here somewhere.


Yes, If you need it right away, go somewhere else. This guy is all alone, and machines stuff as it's ordered. So, long lead times cause you aren't the only one in the world who knows about him. BUT, I haven't found anyone that does better work. Period. If you are in a hurry, you can always p/u a Surly gear, and watch as the chain hangs on the gear as it comes off... and they aren't alone in that problem. Sometimes, good things come to those who wait........ !! Just like the FATTY !!


----------



## Guest (Dec 12, 2012)

*on one tires*

exigetastic from what i can tell by the pics the side walls read On One floater 4.0 yes? any other marking show TPI or manuf name??


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

nvphatty said:


> exigetastic from what i can tell by the pics the side walls read On One floater 4.0 yes? any other marking show TPI or manuf name??


Impressed in the rubber are "26 x 4.0", a rotation arrow, "Made in Taiwan", and "Inflate to 20psi". There is also what looks like a manufacture date / machine stamp, but that's about it.

HTH
Si


----------



## Guest (Dec 12, 2012)

exigetastic said:


> Impressed in the rubber are "26 x 4.0", a rotation arrow, "Made in Taiwan", and "Inflate to 20psi". There is also what looks like a manufacture date / machine stamp, but that's about it.


much appreciate it :thumbsup:


----------



## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

builder said:


> ...Sometimes, good things come to those who wait........ !! Just like the FATTY !!


You should go read the thread in the SS forum. Dan is taking peoples money while he's claiming to have medical issues that prevent him from working. Some folks are going on one year with nothing. Meanwhile he's fab'ing jeep parts...He's a thief.


----------



## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

Harsh words. I've ordered from him on 3 separate occasions. All orders were filled. Even when he was having health issues. Fabing Jeep parts?? Well, maybe he got fed up with the language on the bicyclin' interwebs....


----------



## kcaz (Nov 2, 2004)

Can't wait for mine! So the weight weenie in me is curious if anyone has scaled a delivered one yet? Thanks in advance.


----------



## BertRoot (Dec 7, 2012)

builder said:


> maybe he got fed up with the language on the bicyclin' interwebs....


Fed up is one thing, thieving is another.


----------



## BoogieMang (Mar 17, 2011)

exigetastic said:


> .. and there's more :thumbsup:
> 
> View attachment 744334
> 
> ...


Priceless


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

exigetastic - do you think that there is enough clearance for a 34 or 36 tooth chainring? Its hard to tell from the photos, but it does not look like there is a lot of room. I'm planning to change mine to 2x when I get it, and think I would rather have something bigger than a 32 if it will fit.


----------



## Guest (Dec 12, 2012)

JoeG said:


> exigetastic - do you think that there is enough clearance for a 34 or 36 tooth chainring? Its hard to tell from the photos, but it does not look like there is a lot of room. I'm planning to change mine to 2x when I get it, and think I would rather have something bigger than a 32 if it will fit.


oooops missed the 2x comment.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Hey folks, there's already a thread on HBC rings. Let's not foul this thread up with HBC talk. Lets see some ride reviews on this cool bike.


----------



## Ze_Zaskar (Jan 3, 2008)

Any word on the Floater's availability? Prices?


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Nice pics exigetastic, but can we have more please? Back side of drive side crank, I think some want to see if there's bolt holes for a 64mm bcd ring.

ps. what size frame is it, or did I miss that?

Have fun riding it. It looks great.


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

Stevob said:


> Nice pics exigetastic, but can we have more please? Back side of drive side crank, I think some want to see if there's bolt holes for a 64mm bcd ring.
> 
> ps. what size frame is it, or did I miss that?
> 
> Have fun riding it. It looks great.


Sorry I didn't mention that, mines a large (I'm 6'3").

I've attached some more pics of the drive area (pretty hard to do in the lighting in our hall), I have to say it is a bit tight to go much bigger on the "inner" ring / maybe 5-10mm clearance between teeth and the chain stay .

The spider does look like you could put a larger ring on the outside easily enough. I'm up to my eyeballs doing my better half's VAT return ATM  so can't measure / look up the BCD right now.

HTH everyone.


----------



## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

...so are they all pre-sold/sold out?


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Thanks exige, so no granny ring holes for those that wanted them. Don't worry about measuring the bcd. It's 104mm.


----------



## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

One of the UK Fatbike Forum members just weighted his stock 20" at 36lbs - with a set of pedals.


----------



## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

druidh said:


> One of the UK Fatbike Forum members just weighted his stock 20" at 36lbs - with a set of pedals.


Mine is 36.5lbs (with M520 SPDs encrusted with mud) so sounds about right.

More concerning is I used the bathroom scales (for the first time in ages) and seems I've put on a few pounds too :blush:


----------



## hbourj (Nov 20, 2012)

Ze_Zaskar said:


> Any word on the Floater's availability? Prices?


Not before january. About 50 Livres.


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

exigetastic said:


> Impressed in the rubber are "26 x 4.0", a rotation arrow, "Made in Taiwan", and "Inflate to 20psi". There is also what looks like a manufacture date / machine stamp, but that's about it.
> 
> HTH
> Si


"Made in Thailand" (by Vee Rubber for On-One, Tread design by me. Should be 120tpi IIRC)
not Taiwan


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

On-One was claiming 32 lbs, with no size given. Even if 32 lbs was for a size small, 4 more lbs for a large leads me to believe that they're all a little plumper than we were led to believe they would be...


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## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

bricke said:


> I'm Italian so bought an extralite components is not a big problem (It's very used here).
> But I've also a friend that made some very nice components LINK and I usually bought this kind of stuff from he.


Hey Bricke, good looking gear there. I cant read Italian so do you know if he does Middleburn spiderless rings ? Or would he do them ?

Since the demise of HBC im kinda stuck for spiderless middleburn rings on both bikes, would 100% place an order with them for a few rings if they could make them.


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

ozzybmx said:


> Hey Bricke, good looking gear there. I cant read Italian so do you know if he does Middleburn spiderless rings ? Or would he do them ?
> 
> Since the demise of HBC im kinda stuck for spiderless middleburn rings on both bikes, would 100% place an order with them for a few rings if they could make them.


Yes, he do middleburn spiderless rings.
However if you have some particolar request he could do some special rings only for you.

You can contact him and say that I tell you about his work.

ps.: My fatty is being build!!! 

ps2.: He speaks english.


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

ozzybmx said:


> I cant read Italian.


Google chrome will translate it all clear as day


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Bricke, did you say what the best way to contact your chainring guy is?
I like the HBC stuff I see on the website, especially the prices, but obviously he is not very reliable, or available. I think he needs to charge more, or expand production, or both, if he is unable to keep up with orders. I will check out the other thread to see if I can determine if it is even worth trying, but judging by his own comments on his webpages, he will not be easy to work with or contact at all.

That's really too bad about the Fatty being 4 lbs overweight. 
What, a fat bike has to lie about how much it weighs? 
I hope the extra weight isn't in the frames, but if they honestly expected it to weigh 32lbs, they should have already known what the components weigh, so the frame must have come out a lot heavier than expected. I would have thought it would be a very light frame, in the neighborhood of the Beargrease, with the nice design it has. Either they increased the material thickness for durability concerns, or the manufacturer just used heavier materials for production, or they just lied about the 32lbs.
I don't think they would have though, they could have sold them all without even publishing a weight at all.

I guess the tires might also have been overweight, as they were one of the last things to arrive. I would think they should be right around 4 lbs each, like the other vrubber 26x4.0 tires. they are very beefy from what I hear, with some kind of kevlar belting.
hopefully, they will be around the same price as the Vrubber ones I've seen for about $55(USD)


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

autodoctor911 said:


> Bricke, did you say what the best way to contact your chainring guy is?


I've send him a mail so maybe in a very near future he will make an account here on mtbr.

Until that day you can find the mail in the site I've linked (or even the phone -039- is the italian prefix)


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## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

shiggy said:


> "Made in Thailand" (by Vee Rubber for On-One, Tread design by me. Should be 120tpi IIRC)
> not Taiwan


Sorry I take your word for it, I should have gone to spec-savers


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## Guest (Dec 13, 2012)

autodoctor911 said:


> I would think they should be right around 4 lbs each, like the other vrubber 26x4.0 tires. they are very beefy from what I hear, with some kind of kevlar belting.
> hopefully, they will be around the same price as the Vrubber ones I've seen for about $55(USD)


the devist8ers are 1800gm +/- each @ 60tpi so yes heavy compared to a few other 4.0 tires now avail. According to what shiggy posted earlier the new O-O floater 4.0 (Should be 120tpi IIRC) hence should be lighter........however shoulds & woulds don't often happen.


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## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

double post


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## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

double post - sorry, something went wrong here...


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## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

double post


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## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

autodoctor911 said:


> I hope the extra weight isn't in the frames, but if they honestly expected it to weigh 32lbs, they should have already known what the components weigh, so the frame must have come out a lot heavier than expected. I would have thought it would be a very light frame, in the neighborhood of the Beargrease, with the nice design it has.


It's just a question of doing the math: the frame is by design heavier than a normal diamond frame if they used "standard" tubing. Someone somewhere floated a weight when it was in prototype stage and I think it was in the ballpark of a Pugs frame. Add to that undrilled rims which weigh more than 1 kg each and an overall parts combo that's very price- but less weight conscious, even with just one chainring and a derailleur & shifter less.
If you were thinking about upgrading/getting it down to Beargrease weight, that'll be a problem just with the weight penalty of the frame (not mentioning the price tag involved).
Getting it up to Pugs/Necromancer standard is more realistic.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

nvphatty said:


> the devist8ers are 1800gm +/- each @ 60tpi so yes heavy compared to a few other 4.0 tires now avail. According to what shiggy posted earlier the new O-O floater 4.0 (Should be 120tpi IIRC) hence should be lighter........however shoulds & woulds don't often happen.


As reported earlier by shaggyjohn and velobike, the tires are in the 1450-1480g range, which is the design target. Not just the casing thread count but the amount of rubber used. The Vee Rubber Mission (have not seen the Devist8er) has a VERY thick layer of rubber over the entire casing and rubber weighs much more than any other material in a tire.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

caminoloco said:


> It's just a question of doing the math: the frame is by design heavier than a normal diamond frame if they used "standard" tubing. Someone somewhere floated a weight when it was in prototype stage and I think it was in the ballpark of a Pugs frame. Add to that undrilled rims which weigh more than 1 kg each and an overall parts combo that's very price- but less weight conscious, even with just one chainring and a derailleur & shifter less.
> If you were thinking about upgrading/getting it down to Beargrease weight, that'll be a problem just with the weight penalty of the frame (not mentioning the price tag involved).
> Getting it up to Pugs/Necromancer standard is more realistic.


The frame weight of the original prototype is not unusually heavy. The medium is under 5 pounds (slightly more than a Mukluck). Have not weighed the production version.


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## ferday (Jan 15, 2004)

at the risk of losing this in a massive thread and/or missing this info after reading all 29 pages, is there plans to sell the fatty in the future as a frame only?

thanks Shiggy (or shaggy LOL)


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

There will be frame only (or F&F) deals available at some stage. I'm not sure when though.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

*weight*

Let's be realistic. People are most likely buying this bike because it's cheap (at least I did). 

And this is right in line weight wise with plenty of other fat bike offerings, that are not custom builds in 3-4K range.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/how-much-does-fat-bike-weigh-687961-2.html

sure lighter tires, drilling the rims, and going tubeless are all going to help knock down some weight...

I'd like to see people posting up some action shots of the bikes!! Thanks to *exigetastic *for putting up a bunch of detailed shots. :thumbsup:


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## Guest (Dec 13, 2012)

shiggy said:


> As reported earlier by shaggyjohn and velobike, the tires are in the 1450-1480g range, which is the design target. Not just the casing thread count but the amount of rubber used. The Vee Rubber Mission (have not seen the Devist8er) has a VERY thick layer of rubber over the entire casing and rubber weighs much more than any other material in a tire.


there ya have it folks!! and yes the devist8ers have the same thick rubber layer you mention hence it never came close to the highly publicized UL 1200gm weight but instead 1800.


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## 127 (May 30, 2008)

There is a thread where someone has started to weight Fatty parts. Atleast tubes are very heavy.
There are much lighter options like Schwalbe's free ride tubes, a pair weight 380 gr. 

The difference between given weight of Fatty and real weight is over 10 %, which is quit much.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

why should this frame not be lighter than a Mukluk? replacing one large diameter tube with two small ones usually saves a little weight, but of course that huge downtube probably negates that.
But, any triple butted 7005 frame should come in pretty damn light, or it's going to be way stronger than needed. with the seatstays extending pretty much straight to the headtube(the exact path of the forces created by vertical loads) they should be able to get away with thinner tubing than a conventional diamond.
Anyways, I am sure I won't be disappointed even if it is a bit heavy. I probably will mess with getting the rotating weight down, by drilling, or some 47mm sub 600g wheels, and tubeless conversion. Maybe a lighter crank too.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

For the benefit of non fatbike owners - the weight of a fatbike ceases to be an issue once you ride it.

The only times it becomes a niggle is when you race it or have to frequently carry it or lift it over obstacles.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

I read about 2nd generation handling on On-One website under Fatty description. Has the geometry changed already for the 2nd batch?
I see 68* head angle still listed under geometry, but 69* now in text.
the fork rake was 53mm in text, now 55mm, which seems to be confirmed on a 1st batch bike by Velobike's home measurement.
I'm sure it will handle better than most bikes out there, 1st or 2nd generation, but did it require a change in production already?


----------



## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

Just curious, anyone know how the builds are coming in the US? Anxiously awaiting mine!


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## col200 (Apr 20, 2004)

builder said:


> Just curious, anyone know how the builds are coming in the US? Anxiously awaiting mine!


I'm also curious to whether or not I'll be able to ride the Fatty through town on my way to Christmas dinner (in a Santa hat, of course).


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

autodoctor911 said:


> I read about 2nd generation handling on On-One website under Fatty description. Has the geometry changed already for the 2nd batch?
> I see 68* head angle still listed under geometry, but 69* now in text.
> the fork rake was 53mm in text, now 55mm, which seems to be confirmed on a 1st batch bike by Velobike's home measurement.
> I'm sure it will handle better than most bikes out there, 1st or 2nd generation, but did it require a change in production already?


Head angle on first production is 68deg.
Fork rake was always 55mm.

Any differences are errors. No changes.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

> Just curious, anyone know how the builds are coming in the US? Anxiously awaiting mine!


:madman:+1.

Could someone at On-One please update us on the expected ship date for the US Fattys?


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

I just got an email from Michael at TitusUSA, that they are built, and waiting on tires, which should be here today(12-17-12) or tomorrow. he said "Tires will be here today or tomorrow - bikes are all built up and shipping the moment those tires arrive . . . no later than tomorrow."


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

brant said:


> Head angle on first production is 68deg.
> Fork rake was always 55mm.
> 
> Any differences are errors. No changes.


errors on website, right?
hopefully no errors on production!


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

> I just got an email from Michael at TitusUSA, that they are built, and waiting on tires, which should be here today(12-17-12) or tomorrow. he said "Tires will be here today or tomorrow - bikes are all built up and shipping the moment those tires arrive . . . no later than tomorrow."


Woo-hoo!!! Doing the happy dance!


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

latest news, by phone from Michael: they are being packaged and will be ready for pickup/shipment in the morning.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

> latest news, by phone from Michael: they are being packaged and will be ready for pickup/shipment in the morning.


 :thumbsup:

I already did the happy dance so I don't know what I should do now...

Unfortunately, mine still has to travel 2577.1 miles till I get to play with it!


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## titusquasi (Jan 5, 2006)

exigetastic said:


> Sorry I didn't mention that, mines a large (I'm 6'3").
> 
> I've attached some more pics of the drive area (pretty hard to do in the lighting in our hall), I have to say it is a bit tight to go much bigger on the "inner" ring / maybe 5-10mm clearance between teeth and the chain stay .
> 
> ...


I'm also 6'3". What do you think of the fit on your size large? Top tube seems pretty short but I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks.


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

Is on-one answering to your mails?

They've send me a mail about my bike build a week ago, they had to ship my bike yesterday, but no more mail since that. And they don't answer to my mail anymore from a week (in the last mail they said that if they've some problems or delay they will contact me).

So, you know if there is some problems or delays?


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

bricke said:


> Is on-one answering to your mails?
> 
> They've send me a mail about my bike build a week ago, they had to ship my bike yesterday, but no more mail since that. And they don't answer to my mail anymore from a week (in the last mail they said that if they've some problems or delay they will contact me).
> 
> So, you know if there is some problems or delays?


Bikes being built in large numbers every day. All assembled from parts here in our Rotherham HQ.

Some staff sickness issues may have lengthened reply times.

If you want to message me or post your sales order number I will have your issue looked into specifically.


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

autodoctor911 said:


> errors on website, right?
> hopefully no errors on production!


correct.


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

brant said:


> Bikes being built in large numbers every day. All assembled from parts here in our Rotherham HQ.
> 
> Some staff sickness issues may have lengthened reply times.
> 
> If you want to message me or post your sales order number I will have your issue looked into specifically.


Message sent.
Thank you a lot.


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

bricke said:


> Message sent.
> Thank you a lot.


Email sent.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

USA fatty arrived today from the UK. Cant wait to slap it together after work!!


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

I just got the email and my Fatty is on the way! :thumbsup:

I'd be real happy if it got here by Christmas!


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

ljracer said:


> USA fatty arrived today from the UK. Cant wait to slap it together after work!!


darnit, should have ordered mine from England, it woulda got here quicker.


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## BertRoot (Dec 7, 2012)

Hope it is JoeG. Mine landed today and just been down the beach in the dark on it. Highly entertaining.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

Dear god. I didnt realize the bike would come with the brakes rigged UK style (left is rear brake). Of course i ordered before i knew they would even be offered for sale via the US outfit. 


I hope the hoses are the right length to swap between levers w/o a bleed.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

ljracer said:


> I hope the hoses are the right length to swap between levers w/o a bleed.


Avid brakes right? You should be able to just swap the levers from one side of the bar to the other. No hose cutting involved.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

bad andy said:


> Avid brakes right? You should be able to just swap the levers from one side of the bar to the other. No hose cutting involved.


Sweet. Thanks!


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## SteveJfromtheSwitch (Feb 8, 2012)

ljracer said:


> Dear god. I didnt realize the bike would come with the brakes rigged UK style (left is rear brake). .


the correct way


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

SteveJfromtheSwitch said:


> the correct way


Except the first technical descent i'll grab a bunch of front brake on accident and endo!!


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

brant said:


> Head angle on first production is 68deg.
> Fork rake was always 55mm.
> 
> Any differences are errors. No changes.


I'm very interested to know what the trail figure is Brant.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Stevob said:


> I'm very interested to know what the trail figure is Brant.


well. what is the tire diameter? if we assume a tire diameter of 736mm, the trail will be 90mm.

if i didn't make any mistakes, which is very possible as my brain is faded at this time of day.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Sweet. Thanks for that.


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## Guest (Dec 19, 2012)

SteveJfromtheSwitch said:


> the correct way


negative, left is front, right is rear.


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## SteveJfromtheSwitch (Feb 8, 2012)

depends on what side of the road you drive on (and what side of the car you steer from)


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## drofluf (Dec 12, 2010)

nvphatty said:


> negative, left is front, right is rear.


I sense a fight brewing 

This could be a bigger issue that Campag vs Shimano on the road!


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## SteveJfromtheSwitch (Feb 8, 2012)

nah, just mucking around, i actually have a USA Necro on it's way to me and i'm sure the levers will be around the other way, no biggie to switch them around


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

I have now the road bike with UK-style position, and my KM with USA-style position.

This gave me some more emotions when I need to brake the first time...


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## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

ljracer said:


> Except the first technical descent i'll grab a bunch of front brake on accident and endo!!


Been there, done that, got the t-shirt, but the bruises have faded! 
(Being used to UK style, but on a US/European style brake setup)

I blame the French (well Napoleon)  Which side of the road do they drive on? « Brian Lucas

Sheldon Brown actually set his bikes up the "UK way" despite being in the US. (Braking and Turning Your Bicycle)

Anyway, enough useless trivia for one day


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

exigetastic said:


> ...Sheldon Brown actually set his bikes up the "UK way" despite being in the US...


Makes sense if you ride a motorbike. Nothing worse than grabbing a handful of clutch when you want to stop in a hurry


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Well if Sheldon did it, that settles the argument then. Front is right, rear is left.



or whatever floats your boat


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## drofluf (Dec 12, 2010)

I've ridden bikes with the brakes the 'wrong' (whatever your POV) way round enough times to know that it's "not a good thing", always having to concentrate rather than enjoying the ride


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## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

titusquasi said:


> I'm also 6'3". What do you think of the fit on your size large? Top tube seems pretty short but I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks.


TBH So far it's fine, but I've not really done a long enough stint on it to really confirm. (Max non stop ride time so far is only 1hr)

As this is the largest size, I guess the only way to increase the cockpit length is to move the saddle back / increase stem length. I have moved the saddle back as far as it will go, but the factory stem is still on the bike and I can't see me changing it.

Saying that I may not be the best person to ask, my bikes have all been more race geo than trail. (My other 2 MTBs are a Whippet and Genius MC20). So I'm actually finding the Fatty nice because it is seems more of a cruiser, and I feel more "in the bike" than sat on top of it. I don't want to change the character.

HTH

Si


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

I ride motor bikes, and bicycles, and I still like my bicycles with the front on the left. but a friend of mine who was left handed liked the bicycle set up with the rear brake on the left. It is all a matter of personal preference. 
I don't understand what it has to do with what side of the road you drive on though. In a right hand drive car the gas pedal is still on the right side of the brake, right?


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## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

nvphatty said:


> negative, left is front, right is rear.


Regardless of cultural customs, because you do your real braking with the front brake, you should logically position the front brake where your most tactile & strongest hand is: southpaw left, "normal" right.


----------



## drofluf (Dec 12, 2010)

autodoctor911 said:


> ...I don't understand what it has to do with what side of the road you drive on though. In a right hand drive car the gas pedal is still on the right side of the brake, right?


I was once told - but can't remember where - that the front brake is on the right in the UK so that you can signal to turn left and brake at the same time. In countries where you drive on the right the front brake is on the left so that you can turn right signalling and braking at the same time.

This makes sense in that it's for the 'easy' turn, i.e. not turning across traffic.


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## Guest (Dec 19, 2012)

SteveJfromtheSwitch said:


> depends on what side of the road you drive on (and what side of the car you steer from)


so now our MTB's are on the road eah?? are we driving them too :ciappa::smilewinkgrin:hate to break the news to ya but this is about bikes not cages so the answer is still negative.


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## Guest (Dec 19, 2012)

caminoloco said:


> Regardless of cultural customs, because you do your real braking with the front brake, you should logically position the front brake where your most tactile & strongest hand is: southpaw left, "normal" right.


not sure about this method of rational but i'm right handed so i reach across when needed 

my apologies to the OP for the diversion.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

Out for a quick test ride. Super fun and grippy.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Ok, so who's gonna be first to drill out these On-One rims, and post some pics?


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

anyone wanting a granny gear for their Fatty should check this out:
Truvativ Holzfeller MY10 2.2 Howitzer Chainset | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

they have white ones too.


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## fluap (Aug 8, 2012)

If you want a granny ring, go for the Truvativ Holzfeller 1.1 Trials Chainset. Chain Reaction sells them and that'll give you a 22t with a bashguard. That's a real granny ring, so you can rock crawl as much as you like. Don't expect high sped though, unless gravity is doing its part to help.


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## fluap (Aug 8, 2012)

The Holzfeller MY10 2.2 Howitzer Chainset only says 8/9 speed, perhaps someone can clarify if it'll work on a 10 speed chain? 

It's a 2 chainring crank too, so this is ideal for those wanting a 2x10 conversion (if it'll work).


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

autodoctor911 said:


> anyone wanting a granny gear for their Fatty should check this out:
> Truvativ Holzfeller MY10 2.2 Howitzer Chainset | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com
> 
> they have white ones too.


This is even less expensive:
Truvativ Ruktion 2.0 Chainset Inc Bash - Howitzer | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

Truvativ Blaze 3.0 Crankset - Howitzer | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com


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## fluap (Aug 8, 2012)

Yep cheaper, but they're 2 & 3 chainring cranks. I chose the 1.1 because it's a single chainring like the original. Plus it has a proper (metal) bash-guard for those slightly too adventurous treks. 

Great if you want to add a front derailer and run double or triple cranks though.


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## fluap (Aug 8, 2012)

On the cranks topic, it's a pity most manufacturers seem to stick with even number teeth. Odd numbers have much better wear characteristics. They share the load between inner and outer chain links on each rotation. Obviously the XX1 can't do this, but that's another topic all-together (like this one should be actually). 

(Edit: Of course a half link combats this too)


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

fluap said:


> On the cranks topic, it's a pity most manufacturers seem to stick with even number teeth. Odd numbers have much better wear characteristics. They share the load between inner and outer chain links on each rotation. Obviously the XX1 can't do this, but that's another topic all-together (like this one should be actually).
> 
> (Edit: Of course a half link combats this too)


I don't understand. unless all your cogs are even, won't this cancel out on the odd cogs?


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## fluap (Aug 8, 2012)

I'm actually talking about wear of the sides of the teeth. If you wipe down your chainring, then go for a ride, you'll see each 2nd tooth gets chain lube on it from the inner links. Remember this is only the case if you have an even number of teeth on the chainring, AND you can't change up or down gears up front. Basically if there's lube on something, it's been in contact with another part.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

autodoctor911 said:


> Ok, so who's gonna be first to drill out these On-One rims, and post some pics?


I am going to drill mine out over the next couple of days as time allows. Just trying to determine hole size. I would like 1.5", but per anothers recommendation 1.375" may be safer. Need to take a closer look when i get home.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

fluap said:


> On the cranks topic, it's a pity most manufacturers seem to stick with even number teeth. Odd numbers have much better wear characteristics...


Of course the gold standard is to use cogs with prime numbers :thumbsup:

I still try to do this with my fixed wheel :blush:

Edit: 47/17


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Velobike said:


> Of course the gold standard is to use cogs with prime numbers :thumbsup:
> 
> I still try to do this with my fixed wheel :blush:


I just checked, my 29/13 single speed is golden.


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

I drilled one rim today. Will post a video when I get a chance to edit it down.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

shaggyjohn said:


> I drilled one rim today. Will post a video when I get a chance to edit it down.


Are you drilling them down the center?

Maybe you could go bigger if you offset, and alternate sides?


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

shaggyjohn said:


> I drilled one rim today. Will post a video when I get a chance to edit it down.


What size drill bit? Thanks.


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## hbourj (Nov 20, 2012)

bricke said:


> This is even less expensive:
> Truvativ Ruktion 2.0 Chainset Inc Bash - Howitzer | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com


 :nono:

On the Fatty, the outer ring must be 32 teeths, no more, this one is 36-24, it shall be too close ...:madman:
You can look at the photos from Ed Uxley on the On One Fatty thread in Uk fat bikes forum.

The Truvativ Hussefelt 2.2 Chainset - Howitzer, 170mm 22.32 is better.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

hbourj - I think that I will find out myself tomorrow. I have a 24-36-bash Race Face. I think that the Race Face crank may move the chainline out a little bit more, we'll see if it is enough. If not, I'll be buyin' some new chainrings, I guess!

edit - I'm not optimistic that it will fit...


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

I used 32mm, so 1 1/4. I wouldn't want to go much bigger than that because it will make the rim too fragile.

Video is uploading now. It will be here.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

good work. ~


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

shaggyjohn said:


> I used 32mm, so 1 1/4. I wouldn't want to go much bigger than that because it will make the rim too fragile.
> 
> Video is uploading now.


Thanks for doing that!


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Thanks, Shaggy. Still waiting for my Fatty to arrive; Fedex says delivery tomorrow, but we'll see since we have some snow.


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

That was also the first time I saw the production bike. I really like the orange decals.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

nice video, shaggy. I am also waiting on Fedex. It seems mine has left Oregon on Wednesday, but hasn't arrived anywhere else yet. It was supposed to be here yesterday.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

> I really like the orange decals.


I really don't like the on-one outrageous orange decals. :nonod: But I seem to be in the minority. :sad:

I want beautiful badass boring black decals like in the pre-production photos! :cryin:


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

> I am also waiting on Fedex. It seems mine has left Oregon on Wednesday, but hasn't arrived anywhere else yet. It was supposed to be here yesterday.


Ugh, not good. :sad: The status on mine is the same, and its still saying 12/22 (Saturday) for the delivery date. :???:

We got a little bit of snow, too...


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

JoeG said:


> I really don't like the on-one outrageous orange decals. :nonod: But I seem to be in the minority. :sad:
> 
> I want beautiful badass boring black decals like in the pre-production photos! :cryin:


Yah. I'm on the fence. I caved and have orange tape for my rims after drilling. But usually black is the new black.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

As far as the decals; are they stickers (on top of the paint) or are they under clear coat?


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

JoeG said:


> As far as the decals; are they stickers (on top of the paint) or are they under clear coat?


Under.


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

Mine arrived today in Canada... just built it up and aside from the tubes there's not a thing I am worried about changing... good job On-One!!!


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

gretch said:


> Mine arrived today in Canada... just built it up and aside from the tubes there's not a thing I am worried about changing... good job On-One!!!


Yah! Double check the headset. Mine started to knock (lose) after a solid ride with plenty of chunk. Otherwise rail it!


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## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

Check the BB too. One of the UK guys is reporting a problem after 3 rides. It could, of course, be something else but why take the chance?


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

WOOOOOO HOOOOOO!!! :smilewinkgrin: Mine Just arrived! :thumbsup:

Fedex delivered it today, even after they updated the expected delivery date on their website late last night to Dec 26. So they made my day!


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## 127 (May 30, 2008)

Shaggyjohn has done very educational drilling video. With these instruction perhaps my kind of home mechanic dare also to drill rims.. Did you measure weight loss ?


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## shaggyjohn (Apr 17, 2006)

Stupidly I didn't write down the weights but it saved about 200g per rim.


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## 127 (May 30, 2008)

So it is quit easy and inexpensive to loose weight about 1200 g with drilling and lighter tubes.
With these modification 16" Fatty will weight about 14.7 kg without pedals.


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## hbourj (Nov 20, 2012)

127 said:


> So it is quit easy and inexpensive to loose weight about 1200 g with drilling and lighter tubes.
> With these modification 16" Fatty will weight about 14.7 kg without pedals.


I just change the two on-one 2,7" DH tubes, weight 1226 g, by two Schwalbe AV13F (Schrader) light 3" tubes, 390 g.
836 g less, it is huge, so far my 18" Fatty weight 15,3 kg without pedals, without drilling the rims !


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

hbourj said:


> I just change the two on-one 2,7" DH tubes, weight 1226 g, by two Schwalbe AV13F (Schrader) light 3" tubes, 390 g.
> 836 g less, it is huge, so far my 18" Fatty weight 14,7 kg without pedals, without drilling the rims !


That's the only mod I am going to do... I ordered some of The Schwalbe FR tubes last week... easiest, cheapest way to put the Fatty on a diet.


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## 127 (May 30, 2008)

Are the valve holes enough big for Schrader (auto) ventil without drilling or using a file.


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## hbourj (Nov 20, 2012)

B


127 said:


> Are the valve holes enough big for Schrader (auto) ventil without drilling of using a file.


No. I did drill it a little. You can order the SV23F (Presta). Oups, SV13F.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

One rim done.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

nice work!


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

I posted stuff about building and my initial impressions on the Singletrack magazine forum earlier today. I'll cut and paste them here for a wider audience.

ST thread at On one fatty first impressions (anyone) « Singletrack Forum

The smileys didn't transfer over with the cut and paste. You'll just have to deal with it!


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Mine Just arrived!!! 2 huge boxes.

Fedex delevered it today, even thought they updated the expected delivery date to Dec 26 late last night. They done good!

So I was a little premature with my "taking forever" post above. (note - not on the mtbr forum)


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

So, still unboxing and weighing stuff, but here's my thoughts:

- The tires are HUGE! The tread is HUGE! Mine weigh 1444g and 1516g.
- I like the skewers. Levers look neat and the machined aluminum nut with the captured spring is a really nice touch. F 58g, R 59g
- Tubes weigh 593g each. If the orange decals weren't bad enough, the valve caps are orange as well!
- Front wheel 1722g w/ rotor & rim tape, w/o skewer.
- Rear wheel 2293g w/ rotor & rim tape & cassette, w/o skewer. 30 pt freehub engagement = 12 degrees.
- Rims are pinned, not welded (not a worry to me). I'm concerned that the profile of the rim bead seat might make it tough to go tubeless, as the shelf isn't very wide.

More to follow...


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Update #1

Well, I already had to make a trip to the LBS. The socket type Park BB tool I had won't fit the Howitzer BB as the spindle is in the way. LBS was nice enough to lend me a wrench type one. The crank and BB that come on the bike are massive. They could handle the fattest of the fat IMO!

And by some miracle, the Race Face Evolve 24-36-bash crankset fits!!!

But there is only one mm of clearance between the chainring and the chainstay! So I need a 34. But I don't see 34s on the Race Face website! So, asked LBS to look into and order one if possible. Comment on this thread if you'd like to.

More weights:
- Big Nose Saddle 290g. I wonder why they called it that. It looks kinda odd to me. The front part of it is much wider than my regular saddle. Saddle shell says Velo, the mfr I guess.
- Twelfty seatpost 282 grams. 31.6x 350. Wondering who the little cartoon guy on the back of it is supposed to be. Customer? Designer?
- Cassette 391 g SRAM 11-36
- QR seat clamp 37g.
- Howitzer BB 430 g.
- Truvativ Holzfeller crank (170 mm, 32T) 687 g.

Only issue so far is that there was not a chaingiude on the bike as per the specs. Its not a big deal to me as I am going 2x anyhow.

I will post photos of the complete bike, but the garage is not lit well and is a complete mess. And I know the response that a messy garage would get on STW!

Any bets on whether another LBS trip will be needed today or not?


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Update #2

IIRC, the website said that the bike was supposed to come with white bars. My bars are black, and I'm glad! However, the gold print on the bar looks out of place with the rest of the bike as there is no other gold anywhere. Oh, and these bars are 30 inches wide! My regular bike is 26.5 inches wide. There are some real narrow gaps between trees where I ride, so if I like the wide bars, I may have to go cut down some trees!

As far as headset concerns expressed by someone, I took the fork off, and the headset bearings were nice and smooth. The cups were greased when put into the frame as there were gobs of red grease squeezed out around them. I couldn't figure out how to get the bearings out of the cups, though. I didn't try sharp tools or a hammer, though because I wanted to keep the seals intact. So I just added a little grease to the top and bottom of the cartridge bearing and reassembled things. On-one provided a 5, 15, 15, and 20 mm spacer on the steerer.

More weights:
- Stem 145 g, 31.8x60 mm. Looks nice. The steel steerer tube is exposed at the rear of the stem, so I need to figure out how to stop it from rusting.
- Fork 1300 g with ginormous crown race attached
- Ancho bar, 316 g, 30" wide
- Grips 124 g w/ plugs. I will put Ergon grips on mine, but keep these around.
- Front brake - 333 g with 34" brake line
- Headset spacers (5,10, 15, 20 mm) 21 grams

Now I'm getting hungry. I don't think that I've eaten anything all day, which is not normal. More to follow...


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Update #3

Question - is it humanly possible to remove a non-removable (black) SRAM 10 speed powerlink from a chain? I've used the 8 speed (removable) ones forever and love them. I spent a embarrassing amount of time trying to get this 10 speed one undone. Bare hands, needle nosed pliers, etc. And both LBS close at 6 on Saturday! So the second LBS trip of the day was not possible. Grrr! Then, finally I figured out the answer:










Luckily, I already bought a 6 pack of KMC reusable 10 speed ones off of Amazon! Whew!

Then I notice, there is no derailleur hanger on the frame! WTF! Panic; look through boxes, etc. Oh no, I won't be able to do anything till next week! Run around, curse, etc. And as above, LBS closed till tomorrow. Then, I notice that it is still attached to the rear derailleur that I had already removed from the bike as I'm going to put on a Shimano one. Disaster averted.

The frame was masked where the derailleur hanger attaches to the bike, so its not painted there. There was a bit of paint that squeaked in under the rear edge of the mask, though and it was really thick. Enough to cause the hanger to be misaligned? I dunno, but it was easy to scrape off with a razor blade.

And I found that I needed to run the front brake line in a different way than I've ever done before. It seems to route well when its right beneath where the head tube and down tube join. If I put it out in front of the head tube, it was much too long and twisted around all weird. I don't have a bleed kit for DOT brakes, so shortening the hose isn't possible for me right now.

So, stay tuned for another exciting chapter of Joe Builds a bike.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Update #4

What others have said about the tire beads being loose is true. You know how you can usually use a tire lever to sweep the tire bead onto the rim when they're not too tight? I was able to use my finger instead of a tire lever, that's how loose they were. It does make it easy to align the tire logo with the valve stem, though! And when I got the tire mounted and started pumping it up, I think that it took 5 psi or so before the tube contacted the tire tread. Before that, I could feel space between the tire and the inflating tube with my hand on the tread area. I do realize that the pump gauge isn't real accurate at this low of a pressure.

BIG PROBLEM! The hub logo is not visible through the valve hole, FFS!* Isn't the wheelbuilder aware of this rule? Do you know how expensive it will be for me to have the wheel rebuilt to align said logo and hole?

Both tires have a noticable "hop" (to use the wheel truing term) to them when mounted on the bike and and spun. The bead is seated fine as far as I can tell. I ran them up to 20 psi, the max on the sidewall, and will leave them overnight. Maybe they're still a little stiff from being folded up for who knows how long since they were made.

I also noticed that the seam on the rims is at a bit of an angle; it is not parallel to the hub axle. I never noticed this on other wheels, but I never really looked, either. My guess is that at least some other wheels are like this too, but that the width of the rims makes it more noticeable. It is not a concern to me at all, just pointing it out.

There are no logos or stickers on the rim. IMO, it needs at least a little something to dress it up. And the rim needs a name, like the Surly and Vicious ones, too. On-One names everything else that they make, why not the rims?

Oh, and the plastic trim pieces underneath the saddle aren't held on with regular phillips or slotted screws; they use a hex key. No real value, but it does look really nice.

I also discovered that it is absolutely impossible to mount a disc wheel when the brake caliper still has the little plastic travel block between the brake pads. Front wheel or rear wheel, it doesn't matter. Its amazing how easy they go in after it is removed, though. Why on earth did Avid make them out of black plastic? They should be a bright color so that you notice them. Its kinda hard to notice a black plastic block in a black brake caliper. Magura uses yellow, which you can actually see.

The brakes drag ever so slightly as well. I loosened the tri-align bolts, squeezed the levers, and tightened the bolts again while holding the levers. I did this 2 or 3 times and its still the same. There is not enough drag to slow the wheel (they spin forever) but I can just hear a little rub. Hopefully this will go away once the pads bed in.

I got one of those Problem Solvers direct mount adapters to mount my front derailleur on. It attached to the seat tube in the area where it is bent. The seat tube is not perfectly round at this spot; I've tightened the clamp but can still see daylight between the front of the clamp and the seat tube. I bet that at least a gram of dirt will accumulate there adding unnecessary weight to the bike!

I'm tired and going brain dead. i can't make sense of how to attach the cable to the front derailleur. So, tomorrow will be cable time. Front derailleur, rear derailleur, KS Lev dropper seatpost.

To be continued.

* I may or may not not give a sh1t about this at all...


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## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

JoeG said:


> - I like the skewers. Levers look neat and the machined aluminum nut with the captured spring is a really nice touch. F 58g, R 59g


I think On-One missed a trick with these, they just needed a little bit more of a hook, on them and they'd have doubled up as bottle openers. Would have been perfect for an expedition bike!


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

JoeG said:


> ...Question - is it humanly possible to remove a non-removable (black) SRAM 10 speed powerlink from a chain? I've used the 8 speed (removable) ones forever and love them. I spent a embarrassing amount of time trying to get this 10 speed one undone. Bare hands, needle nosed pliers, etc...


It just takes seconds. Squeeze the link on the diagonal and it separates neatly. A small pair of multigrips makes it easier.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Ugh, my Fatty is still at FedEx somewhere. I had it shipped to my workplace, since I had figured it would come on a weekday(it was supposed to get here Thursday). Then, when it didn't show up Thursday, or Friday, I had it rerouted to be held at the local FedEx store since it was going to be delivered on Saturday, and I didn't want to hang out at the Shop all day waiting for it. Then, I kept checking the status. It said it went out on the truck for delivery at 8:11AM, but it never made it to the FedEx store. I went there to check right before they close at 6:00pm, but, not there. Now it says Not Delivered, Local Delivery Exception.
To make things worse, there is another package with some headset parts they forgot to put in the box, since they didn't assemble theheadset because I asked thet the steerer tube be uncut. This was sent via USPS, also to arrive on Saturday, but the mail carrier holds all the mail when we are closed, so, even though it shows to be delivered on USPS tracking, it is not there, and probably won't be till Wedensday.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

> It just takes seconds. Squeeze the link on the diagonal and it separates neatly.


Yes, normal ones. I use th e8 speed ones all the time. That 10 speed one was welded shut or something!


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

I've seen Sram use a different joiner recently. It requires you to bend the chain sideways and then pop off the cover link. The other side has both pins, whereas previous Sram joiners were a symmetrical design. Sorry but I don't have any pics.


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## hbourj (Nov 20, 2012)

JoeG said:


> Yes, normal ones. I use th e8 speed ones all the time. That 10 speed one was welded shut or something!


Yes, this 10 speed black quick link is not removable to be more reliable. Somebody has filed down a flat pliers to depart and close this link. Indeed this link is for mount, not for dismount the chain.
KMC or Connex are better.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

hbourj said:


> Yes, this 10 speed black quick link is not removable to be more reliable. Somebody has filed down a flat pliers to depart and close this link. Indeed this link is for mount, not for dismount the chain.
> KMC or Connex are better.


can someone get a close-up pic of the link?


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## hbourj (Nov 20, 2012)

Google can :


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## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

The 10-speed Power*Locks* are not designed to be removed in the way that the 8- and 9-speed Power*Links* are. Having said that, they can be removed with a suitable tool and Park actually do such a thing.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

If you use a small multigrip tool this is an easy job.

One jaw on the left nearside of the link shown above, and the other on the right far side, quick squeeze, and it's done.


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## Johnclimber (Jan 9, 2008)

JoeG - FFS stop stressing, get out and ride your bike instead of update #5, 6 or 7


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

ljracer said:


> View attachment 747167
> 
> 
> One rim done.


what is the orange rim strip? Is it something grime resistant, or is it ribbon?
Anyone know of what to use that will resist soiling while being available in multiple colors, and is fairly light?

I was thinking colored vinyl or cloth backed vinyl tape stuck sticky side to sticky side to a wider tape, so that the overlap can stick to the rim. 
Is this what others are doing?
does it work well?


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## Guest (Dec 24, 2012)

autodoctor911 said:


> Anyone know of what to use that will resist soiling while being available in multiple colors, and is fairly light?
> 
> I was thinking colored vinyl or cloth backed vinyl tape stuck sticky side to sticky side to a wider tape, so that the overlap can stick to the rim.


When searching for material i went to a local fabric outlet with literally thousands of colors, material types, remnants of all sorts of shapes n sizes. I wanted white and found what was a vinyl table cloth 5x6' so i cut 2" strips for marge lites that worked perfectly.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

autodoctor911 said:


> what is the orange rim strip? Is it something grime resistant, or is it ribbon?
> Anyone know of what to use that will resist soiling while being available in multiple colors, and is fairly light?


In my case duct tape. 23 grams for one loop on the rim. Mud washes off fine.








Plenty of threads on this forum where people have many nice solutions.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Want. 

It's a good thing for my pocketbook that they are out of stock at the moment.

Yeah, I think one of these is going to be coming soon.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

Does anyone have any severe hops in their tires? I noticed I have it mine. Each one has it and it does not seem to be related to the tube. Ive moved the tires on the rim. Rims are true and have no hops. 

Cant really feel it at low speed. But high speed it is a problem. 


Thanks.


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## hbourj (Nov 20, 2012)

I have big hops in my two tire+tube+wheel, but I think it is from the very narrow tubes I use (Schwalbe SV13F, 190 g each, the on-One weight 610 g !). 
Downhill I feel these hops a lot !


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

Based on a tip from a buddy I aired it up to 35 psi. Seemed to seat everything better. I'll let it sit for a bit and the. Test ride.


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

Just changed my tubes to the Schwalbe FR and had a b!tch of a time getting the tires seated properly without hops... what worked in the end was applying some soapy water to the beads and then inflating to a high psi... voila, no more hops.

BTW, I dropped 2 lbs of weight in the process.... cheapest diet for this fatty...


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## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

The tire hops because the bead isn't centered around the rim. You have to be very vigilant in getting the tire to inflate evenly around the rim. The tire is seated off-center. This is operator error. Easy/kinda to fix. Deflate the tire, rub something slippery around the bead(Dawn dishsoap diluted a bit works), and keep the tire/rim off the ground while inflating. If still having trouble, you may need an extra pair of hands keeping the tire equal spaced on the rim while you inflate it. The problem is the tire bead falls into the large center section of the rim, and then pops up unequally onto the bead seat. Work with it, and all will be well.


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## Guest (Dec 29, 2012)

ljracer said:


> Does anyone have any severe hops in their tires? I noticed I have it mine. Each one has it and it does not seem to be related to the tube. Ive moved the tires on the rim. Rims are true and have no hops.
> 
> Cant really feel it at low speed. But high speed it is a problem.


hops are the main contributor but rest assured they are also out of balance more than folks would suspect. These fat tires no matter the make / model can have severe weight bias in a section.


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## hbourj (Nov 20, 2012)

ljracer said:


> Based on a tip from a buddy I aired it up to 35 psi. Seemed to seat everything better. I'll let it sit for a bit and the. Test ride.


I just aired the two up to 35 PSI and the hops is disapeared. Thank you. Easy and efficient tip.


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

nvphatty said:


> hops are the main contributor but rest assured they are also out of balance more than folks would suspect. These fat tires no matter the make / model can have severe weight bias in a section.


Did a ride this morning at some relatively fast fat bike speeds (30 km/h) and absolutely no wobble or hops felt in my tires...


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## Guest (Dec 29, 2012)

gretch said:


> Did a ride this morning at some relatively fast fat bike speeds (30 km/h) and absolutely no wobble or hops felt in my tires...


do you feel warm n fuzzy inside??


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

nvphatty said:


> do you feel warm n fuzzy inside??


Absolutely...


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## Guest (Dec 29, 2012)

gretch said:


> Absolutely...


me too when i static balanced mine


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Yesterday was a great day to continue breaking her in...


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## 127 (May 30, 2008)

After couple of rides in snow conditions I have noticed, that 2*10 gears could perhaps help my skinny legs in some situations. I if go to 2*10 gears, I would like to do it inexpensive way. There are now discounted crank options like Hussefelt 2.2 or Truvativ Blaze, which I could take away largets (42 t) ring and replace it with light alumium rock guard. These will go to bike's original bb. 

So I need a front mech and a trigger. Would Shimano's 9 speed e-type mech work or is the only way to go with problem solver adapter and direct mount mech ?


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## hbourj (Nov 20, 2012)

Ed Oxley put a high clamp mech Shimano SLX without the expensive problem solvers adaptor. Photos are on UK fat bike forum.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

here is my Fatty. only mod so far is white mary bars.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

lucky man:thumbsup:


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## Fwilpum (Jun 25, 2007)

Is it possible for shops to get these? Who's distributing?


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Fwilpum said:


> Is it possible for shops to get these? Who's distributing?


On-One sells consumer direct.


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## sryanak (Aug 9, 2008)

ljracer said:


> Does anyone have any severe hops in their tires? I noticed I have it mine. Each one has it and it does not seem to be related to the tube. Ive moved the tires on the rim. Rims are true and have no hops.
> 
> Cant really feel it at low speed. But high speed it is a problem.
> 
> Thanks.


For me severe hops mean my tires are not seated correctly all the way around. This can be hard to get right on rims without good bead seats such as Fat Shebas or V!Zs. I had trouble on Darryls too but it was because of tape residue on the ramp up to the bead seat. Once I cleaned that all off and broke out the compressor they popped right on and no more hop! Well almost none, you can no longer feel it at speed.


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## TikiInn (Jan 1, 2013)

We were thinking of getting 8-10 of the fattys for rentals....but we want internal hubs...any problems with the hydraulic brakes getting sluggish in the cold? and no racks? Is there a specific reason in design for not having rack mounts?


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

TikiInn said:


> We were thinking of getting 8-10 of the fattys for rentals....but we want internal hubs...any problems with the hydraulic brakes getting sluggish in the cold? and no racks? Is there a specific reason in design for not having rack mounts?


Only internal hub that fits a 170mm OLD frame is the 3 speed Sturmey-Archer.


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## TikiInn (Jan 1, 2013)

*On-One Fatty*



Velobike said:


> Only internal hub that fits a 170mm OLD frame is the 3 speed Sturmey-Archer.


I would think that 3 is just not enough, unless your on the beach..


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## shawnp (Jun 18, 2010)

I've been keeping an eye on this thread for some time. Can I make an order for a complete yet? I know the Titus website says 'expected soon'.


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## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

TikiInn said:


> We were thinking of getting 8-10 of the fattys for rentals....but we want internal hubs...any problems with the hydraulic brakes getting sluggish in the cold? and no racks? Is there a specific reason in design for not having rack mounts?


There are no rack mounts because this is designed primarily as a "trail" bike - not for off-road adventuring. You will also find that lots of folk are now using frame bags and large saddle bags. If you still need a frame then it's likely you'd be able to fit one using P-Clips and a seatpost-clamp made to take rack mounts (various are available).

As regards the Internal Hub, with a 170mm rear end then, as above, only the 3-speed SA is available.

Why not consider the Pugsley or 9:zero:7 instead? Both will take an Alfine or Rohloff and a rack.


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## TikiInn (Jan 1, 2013)

druidh said:


> There are no rack mounts because this is designed primarily as a "trail" bike - not for off-road adventuring. You will also find that lots of folk are now using frame bags and large saddle bags. If you still need a frame then it's likely you'd be able to fit one using P-Clips and a seatpost-clamp made to take rack mounts (various are available).
> 
> As regards the Internal Hub, with a 170mm rear end then, as above, only the 3-speed SA is available.
> 
> Why not consider the Pugsley or 9:zero:7 instead? Both will take an Alfine or Rohloff and a rack.


I was hoping for EU manufacturer. Import duties to an already expensive bike x10..$$$$$$ plus follow up...parts...2 week transport.... was hoping for a long term relationship. the same as some bike shops do in the states. Rent...sell..buy again...upgrades. its a great way to start a micro business. establish a loyal customer base..

I should start a new thread.. seems like the On-One option is over..

Can do our own with a xacd frame  non Ti


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

TikiInn said:


> I was hoping for EU manufacturer. Import duties to an already expensive bike x10..$$$$$$ plus follow up...parts...2 week transport.... was hoping for a long term relationship. the same as some bike shops do in the states. Rent...sell..buy again...upgrades. its a great way to start a micro business. establish a loyal customer base..
> 
> I should start a new thread.. seems like the On-One option is over..
> 
> Can do our own with a xacd frame  non Ti


Why do you want to use and internal hub? Classic gear are much simpler to find in aftermarket and much simpler to repair (I've an Alfine too and I love it).
However, an internal hub in EU is very expensive, rolhoff is about 1k and alfine about 400, not very cheap to start a business.


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## groovyrider (May 30, 2008)

bricke said:


> Why do you want to use and internal hub? Classic gear are much simpler to find in aftermarket and much simpler to repair (I've an Alfine too and I love it).
> However, an internal hub in EU is very expensive, rolhoff is about 1k and alfine about 400, not very cheap to start a business.


A higher investment but way less maintainance.......simpler to repair?? ........ never felt the need to "repair" my Rohloff in 6 years, still running like new


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

groovyrider said:


> A higher investment but way less maintainance.......simpler to repair?? ........ never felt the need to "repair" my Rohloff in 6 years, still running like new


I know (I've an alfine) but if you break a rolhoff/alfine it's a problem to repair it, and you don't know how a rental bike is used or by who.

For me the simpler & cheaper way to start a rental service is with this on-one bike. All the other options are a lot more expensive and if you want an internal gearing hub the cost is even more here in EU.


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## JordyB (Oct 26, 2007)

Not sure if asked already but will framesets be for sale and if so when? Thx.


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## TikiInn (Jan 1, 2013)

groovyrider said:


> A higher investment but way less maintainance.......simpler to repair?? ........ never felt the need to "repair" my Rohloff in 6 years, still running like new


You can get a 8spd for under 300. But it's maintainance. I've done a lot of reading, and the question comes to mind. "Why would you not have a internal hub on a fat bike" you can go on the trails in god awful conditions. Better floatation...fat tires...roll over everything. Ok. That means more crap in the gears. If you ride in perfect conditions on sunny days, then why get a fat bike? Looks....a few more winks from the Starbucks girls?

And oh. Just thinking about the price of a Rohloff makes my stomach twist


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

My bike is just arrived and I've tried to put the Salsa Mukluk frame bag (from Revelate Design).

It's just fit, some straps isn't in the perfect position but with some hack it could be perfect.

http://db.tt/F8gdZLRD

The framesize is medium and the bag size is medium


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## TikiInn (Jan 1, 2013)

bricke said:


> My bike is just arrived and I've tried to put the Salsa Mukluk frame bag (from Revelate Design).
> 
> It's just fit, some straps isn't in the perfect position but with some hack it could be perfect.
> 
> The framesize is medium and the bag size is medium


Nice


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

groovyrider said:


> A higher investment but way less maintainance.......simpler to repair?? ........ never felt the need to "repair" my Rohloff in 6 years, still running like new


Edit; Sorry, I meant to reply to:



TikiInn said:


> You can get a 8spd for under 300. But it's maintainance. I've done a lot of reading, and the question comes to mind. "Why would you not have a internal hub on a fat bike" you can go on the trails in god awful conditions. Better floatation...fat tires...roll over everything. Ok. That means more crap in the gears. If you ride in perfect conditions on sunny days, then why get a fat bike? Looks....a few more winks from the Starbucks girls?
> 
> And oh. Just thinking about the price of a Rohloff makes my stomach twist


You might want to check with someone who already does rentals. The ones I've seen around here are out of date and up for sale long before the conventional drivetrain is worn out. I guess it depends on who you're renting them to, and where they use them, but most renters are not avid riders, so don't put very many miles on stuff. I would think the fat bike rentals see even fewer miles than others, and if not, tires are going to break you.


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

I received mine yesterday from the UK (I'm in Australia). It took about 3 weeks to ships. Luckily I paid no Australian taxes, which surprised me, and as the customs documents had the cost listed as 1350 Euros instead of the US$1350 I'd paid I'm quite relieved. 

I had thought that as a UK company the brakes would be right front, but they were instead US style with the front on the left. The rear was easy enough to change, but the front only just fit once I re-routed the cable a bit and bypassed the top cable mount. 

The packaging was pretty poor and there were a few nicks in the paint work. The chain keepers needs to be adjusted slightly to not rub in the smallest gear. Like the bike I'm fat and slow so I plan to put a small ring and derailleur on the front. 

I've only had time to for a quick ride to see that everything works, but I'm looking forward getting it onto the trails.

Tim


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

Got in plenty of desert riding on new years day. Some light snow, sandy washes, and super chunk rock. Only one pinch flat on the ride. I kept dropping pressures in the rough stuff and went too low up front.

Keep posting up pics of your rides please!


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## singularidad (Jun 24, 2007)

ljracer said:


> View attachment 750283
> 
> Got in plenty of desert riding on new years day. Some light snow, sandy washes, and super chunk rock. Only one pinch flat on the ride. I kept dropping pressures in the rough stuff and went too low up front.
> 
> Keep posting up pics of your rides please!


Do they now come with drilled rims, their HP say, non-drilled. I like the orange rimstrip looking through.

Nice bike, I can not wait until February for mine.


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

Here's mine... changed the saddle, stem, grips and tubes, .. 34 lbs with pedals (size L)...


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

singularidad said:


> Do they now come with drilled rims, their HP say, non-drilled. I like the orange rimstrip looking through.
> 
> Nice bike, I can not wait until February for mine.


ljracer drilled his own I think.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

Stevob said:


> ljracer drilled his own I think.


Yup . Pretty easy job. Just watch the video Shaggy John posted.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Same size holes as Shaggy's?


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## JordyB (Oct 26, 2007)

JordyB said:


> Not sure if asked already but will framesets be for sale and if so when? Thx.


Anyone? Thanks!


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

Stevob said:


> Same size holes as Shaggy's?


Yup. 1.25 inches. Any bigger seems risky. I'll let others experiment.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

JordyB said:


> Anyone? Thanks!


Brant from OnOne had posted before that they would be at some point. However now they are available for $999 pounds and come with a bunch of parts.


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## col200 (Apr 20, 2004)

Am I the only one who didn't get the chain keeper? What gives?


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## singularidad (Jun 24, 2007)

*drilled on-one rim*



ljracer said:


> Yup . Pretty easy job. Just watch the video Shaggy John posted.
> 
> View attachment 750335
> 
> View attachment 750336


Thank you very much,

I will do that

Best,

Martin


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

col200 said:


> Am I the only one who didn't get the chain keeper? What gives?


It seems odd. Just contact them directly. I'm sure they will take care of you.


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

col200 said:


> Am I the only one who didn't get the chain keeper? What gives?


US supplied bikes seem to have shipped without them. I shall chase this issue for you if you can give me your full name.


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## 127 (May 30, 2008)

I will change my Fatty to 2*10 speed system with Truvativ Husselelt 32/22 or Holzfeller 32/22 cranks,
which are 9 speed specific. I will use normal Shimano SLX down pull front mech and I change lower limit screw to 30 mm long, because I am advised it works so. Which one works better in this compination 9 s or 10 s front mech ?.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

brant said:


> US supplied bikes seem to have shipped without them. I shall chase this issue for you if you can give me your full name.


Mine didn't arrive with one either (nor the white bars, showed up with black ones)

I contacted Titus about the chain guide and was told they were delayed, and that I would receive one when they arrived. Sounds good, waiting patiently now.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

My Fatty didn't have the chainguide either. I've already switched it to 2X.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

I just got email that chainguides are being shipped out now.

Has anyone drilled and tapped the Holzfeller crank yet?

I noticed in the instructions for the Howitzer BB, there is supposed to be one spacer on the right side, or a chainguide/shiftguide. Is the BB perhaps preloaded too much without it?

Edit: I see now, the left bearing is slip fit, radial loaded only, and the right bearing takes care of the thrust, so there is no preload adjustment.


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## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

*On One Fatty vs Muk2*

I needed another fat bike to complement my Fatty. So, no more being available, I bought a Mukluk 2. Well, it's faster, but no where near as well thought out as the Fatty-and for more than twice as much. Sheesh. I wanted to set up a Fatty with lighter wheels, and see what that did, and wish I could've. It has way nicer stuff-meaning the Fatty- if you don't compare the crankset and wheels of the Muk2. Nothing else is anywhere near as nice. I hope On One brings out a lighter Fatty with faster/lighter wheels and a nice ethirteen crank. That, would be killer! Thanks On One for a killer Fat Bike!!


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Here's my inaction shot from the first ride. I still have to lower the pressure more in the tyres. I'm looking forward to getting a front derailleur and small chainring as I'm too unfit to climb some of the usual hills.

Tim


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## col200 (Apr 20, 2004)

*Fatty on the lake*

This bike is so damn fun!
(well, picture is taken along the shoreline)


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Has anyone else noticed that the brake pads are about 3-4mm further from center than the rotor?
Have I mucked something up when I put it together?
It is like this front and rear, like the caliper brackets are designed for a rotor that is a bit larger.
I can see the wear pattern on the rotor is off the outside edge, and there is a section of rotor below the pad that is not getting contact.
I am sure the pads will wear with a good bit on top not getting any wear, and eventually may touch each other over top of the disc before the pad is totally worn, resulting in no braking force.
Can the lower cups for the spherical washers be changed out for thinner ones?

Do I need bigger rotors, or different brackets?


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

bad andy said:


> Mine didn't arrive with one either (nor the white bars, showed up with black ones)
> 
> I contacted Titus about the chain guide and was told they were delayed, and that I would receive one when they arrived. Sounds good, waiting patiently now.


When I ordered mine the specs said black el guapos came standard. The UK site allowed you to customize a few items, including a choice of handlebar color, seat type and color, grip type and color, etc.

I went ahead and ordered a white Mary bar. It looks great, and is very comfortable, while allowing very good steering control without being too wide, and is cheap(around $25). It is also lighter than most alt bars.

As you can see, I had to use all the spacers I could fit on an uncut steerer to get the 37mm rise Mary to seat height. I don't like the way it looks, but I am comfortable with it, and am not afraid of damaging the steerer. I am quite certain the handlebar would bend before the steel steerer tube ever would. But it still looks odd. I also have a 5.75" carbon BMX bar coming, that will give the same height with no spacers, but I will loose the nice swept back hand position. I will try them, but if my wrists don't like it, I will switch back before cutting the steerer.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

autodoctor911 said:


> Has anyone else noticed that the brake pads are about 3-4mm further from center than the rotor?
> Have I mucked something up when I put it together?
> It is like this front and rear, like the caliper brackets are designed for a rotor that is a bit larger.
> I can see the wear pattern on the rotor is off the outside edge, and there is a section of rotor below the pad that is not getting contact.
> ...


Avid brake rotors used to be 185 & 165mm. The rotor specs for the Fatty say 180F & 160R and interestingly the adapter specs say the same. Maybe Avid changed the size of their rotors to follow everyone else. That might explain the extra gap, especially if the adapters were for 185F & 165R *(this should be printed on the inside of the adapter)*.

Having said all that crap, as long as the pads remain parallel with the rotor, you can remove the adjustable washers between the adapter and the calliper (both above and below). Forks (steel in particular) are known for having alignment issues with the 74mm IS mounts and this is why manufacturers use the adjustable washers. I'm not suggesting for an instant the On-One fork is affected in this way.


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## jamesabaldwin (Apr 29, 2011)

Given that in my local trails there's a small amount of stigma given to any on one bike, im pretty certain this will break that usual stereotype... They're actually very nice looking bikes.
Any news on when you can buy separate parts?


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

jamesabaldwin said:


> Given that in my local trails there's a small amount of stigma given to any on one bike...


Really? I've never encountered anything like that anywhere.


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## jamesabaldwin (Apr 29, 2011)

Yeah, seriously. Maybe its a select group of riders around here then, middle England posh and rich folk, the rarer a piece of kit is tends to shine more than technical ability... Its quite pathetic really and im a big fan of on one inbred and scandal frames so I try to distance myself from them


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

That's sad. I hope that changes with this bike.


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## jamesabaldwin (Apr 29, 2011)

Me too, it looks like a beaut. Im aching to get one but may wait for the next revision


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## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

I don't know that it needs anything. Wait long enough and I'm sure the price will go up. Someone asked earlier, and On One replied there were no changes coming on the second batch, as I read the response. The frame is beyond great. All the bike needs is a light set of wheels and a high end($$$$$$) crankset to be a world beater. I also have a Mukluk 2 and the parts and set up/design? are not good. The OnOne Fatty was set up way better than my muk and that was with at least 2 shop mechanics going over it(muk). I can't say enough good about the Fatty. It's like the Fatty was made by the best builders and the Muk was spec'd in some cut-rate Chinese shop. Sorry Salsa, but that's the way it looks in the first week of ownership. :madmax::madman:


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

jamesabaldwin said:


> Given that in my local trails there's a small amount of stigma given to any on one bike, im pretty certain this will break that usual stereotype...


Blimey, you must have a lot of elite top earning mtb xc superstars in your area, but actually most of those I've met can do the job on any bike.


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

Is the effective top tube length on the biggest frame really just 24"? I need 24.5"-25"


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

appleSSeed said:


> Is the effective top tube length on the biggest frame really just 24"? I need 24.5"-25"


I usually ride a 24.5 ETT on all my bikes with a 90-100mm stem. I went with the 70mm stem and 745 mm bars on mine with the large frame. Fits me fine FWIW. Im all torso and short legs. My buddy who rides a size up from me can ride it fine as there is plenty of seatpost to raise up.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

autodoctor911 said:


> Has anyone else noticed that the brake pads are about 3-4mm further from center than the rotor?
> Have I mucked something up when I put it together?
> It is like this front and rear, like the caliper brackets are designed for a rotor that is a bit larger.
> I can see the wear pattern on the rotor is off the outside edge, and there is a section of rotor below the pad that is not getting contact.
> ...


Rear








Front








Mine are lined up with the rotors. But it all came preassembled from On-One. I did have to bleed my rear brake because lever was going to the bar on the first pull, but otherwise no braking issues. Let me know if you want other pics or info.


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## hbourj (Nov 20, 2012)

127 said:


> I will change my Fatty to 2*10 speed system with Truvativ Husselelt 32/22 or Holzfeller 32/22 cranks,
> which are 9 speed specific. I will use normal Shimano SLX down pull front mech and I change lower limit screw to 30 mm long, because I am advised it works so. Which one works better in this compination 9 s or 10 s front mech ?.


I did it yesterday and it works very well. :thumbsup:

I did 25 km today, no problem. The cranks and derailleurs 9 or 10 speeds are not really different. The size of the teeth and the inside width of the chain are exactly the same in 9 and 10 speed, only the external width of the chain changes, but very few.


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## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

So I finally got my fatty a couple of weeks ago, but other than a few spins around the block/local park I've not had time to put her through her paces..I've finally managed to get out of work / bed (flu) today and gave her a spin - nothing too serious, but enough to keep me grinning for hours.

Impressions:
- got her with a bent front rotor... need to replace that, not even going to try and contact On-One for the sake of a rotor.. might get an orange set hehe.

- Avid Elixirs... mine needs to be pumped up before anything happens... will give them a bleed, but I think they might be on their way out, to be replaced with something trustworthy.

- she's heavy, around 39 with the large option - will deffo look at the lighter tubes and maybe even drilling as per Shiggy's vid...tubeless...?

- broke my wrist a few years ago and I can feel it with the front, might look into the Lefty conversion

- not 100% sure I got the pressures dialed in perfectly, but I got the wheels super pumped and let a fair bit out, still not getting much of a dampening in the front.

Other than that it's bundle of fun that just keeps giving! It grips like nothing I've played with before, only once managed to get her to shift her arse sideways and that was no more than an inch, it's a bulldozer over rocky sections.

All and all I absolutely love the bike

See the clip of her first outing!


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

I consider this one of the nicest looking fat frames.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

So I missed out on the first batch and would like to get in on the next. I notice that the UK site allows preordering but the US (where I am) site does not. What's the deal?


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## shawnp (Jun 18, 2010)

If you ride an 18" pug, would you get the same in a Fatty?


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Considering her name is Fatty, she deserves a little pimpin' right?

Just the beginning....


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

bad andy said:


> Considering her name is Fatty, she deserves a little pimpin' right?
> 
> Just the beginning....
> View attachment 751120


Orange chain ring bolts! :thumbsup:


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## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

Yup, I thought I did too, but a 90mm stem and a handlebar with a bit of rise, and it fits like a glove. I'd recommend going for it. Fat bikes seem to fit a bit different. You really don't need that long tt.


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## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

Stevob said:


> Avid brake rotors used to be 185 & 165mm. The rotor specs for the Fatty say 180F & 160R and interestingly the adapter specs say the same. Maybe Avid changed the size of their rotors to follow everyone else. That might explain the extra gap, especially if the adapters were for 185F & 165R *(this should be printed on the inside of the adapter)*.
> 
> Having said all that crap, as long as the pads remain parallel with the rotor, you can remove the adjustable washers between the adapter and the calliper (both above and below). Forks (steel in particular) are known for having alignment issues with the 74mm IS mounts and this is why manufacturers use the adjustable washers. I'm not suggesting for an instant the On-One fork is affected in this way.


I'd seen this and similar posts on Ukfatbikes.co.uk. Seemed the US guys were most affected. The UK guys (mine included didn't have this problem).

I wondered as they were being assembled by different teams, and Avid have swapped to using standard 180mm recently this could have slipped through the net.

Here is my working setup, so people can double check how things should be set up. (Including a washer mod I needed to stop the adapter bolts fouling the rotors)


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

exigetastic said:


> I'd seen this and similar posts on Ukfatbikes.co.uk. Seemed the US guys were most affected. The UK guys (mine included didn't have this problem).
> 
> I wondered as they were being assembled by different teams, and Avid have swapped to using standard 180mm recently this could have slipped through the net.
> 
> Here is my working setup, so people can double check how things should be set up. (Including a washer mod I needed to stop the adapter bolts fouling the rotors)


that's exactly what I went to so I could ride it on some trails for the first time yesterday, without destroying the pads. I took out all the spacers under the caliper, then added one thin washer on the front because it got a little too far to the inside there. Worked great. Not sure if the spherical alignment washers are necessary anyways. I will run it like that for now.

Wow. this bike handles great on the trail. I haven't had a bike carve through stuff that well since my 1989 GT Avalanche,


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

I noticed the brake issue on mine over the weekend. Sunday, I took a couple of photos. I emailed then to Brant from On-One along with a description of what I saw on my bike. He replied the same day with a few questions, and I responded with some more info, probably after he had gone to bed for the night. This evening, I got the following emailed to me (and presumably the other Fatty customers)



> Hello Fatty owner,
> It has been brought to our attention that while we were assembling your On-One Fatty's here in the US, an extra set of conical washers were installed on the Avid Elixir 1 brakes. I have included a photo of how your brakes were shipped, as well as a photo showing the correct positioning. This should be a very quick and easy fix and after making this change, you will find that your brake pads are fully contacting the rotor. Our apologies for this error. One other thing to note - we are shipping the chain guide to each and every one of you today so you will receive an automated email with a USPS tracking number shortly. Any questions, please let me know personally and if you have any pics of your Fatty being put to use - please send them on.
> Sincerely,
> Michael
> ...


I think that the conical washer issue and the missing chainguides only affects US built Fattys. Mistakes do happen, and On-One dealt with this one to my satisfaction. Good Job, guys! :thumbsup:

Others may have contacted On-One as well, so I'm not trying to take credit if someone else brought it to their attention before I did. I just want to make people aware that the issue was resolved pretty quickly once On-One was made aware of it.

I would post the photos that On-One sent of the correct and incorrect ways to mount the caliper, but On-One sent them as pdf files and I can't upload those to my Photobucket. If you need them, respond to this thread and we'll figure out how to get them to you.

Edit - The only brake issue that I had was that the brake pads were not using the inner 3-4 mm of the brake rotor. I didn't have the same problem as exigetastic describes above.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

I kinda figured it out on my own on Sunday. I just took out one, then both washers from under the caliper. I don't see a need for the washers on top either, if the caliper is resting directly on the bracket. A regular flat washer is all that is needed. I will get some shorter bolts or cut mine down, and get rid of all of the spherical washers. They allow you to adjust the angle of the caliper when mounted above and below. When just on top, they're useless.


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## col200 (Apr 20, 2004)

*Photos*

Here are the two photos sent in the email.


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## TCG (May 5, 2011)

I got mine out this weekend after emerging from the african bush myself. I do like it though found quite a flaw IMO rear disc is close to stay and chuffs them badly when removing the wheel(not helped by too much paint hampering the axle to fit in its spot). I wanted to upgrade to 203 disc this seems like impossible for the rear as the stays are so close.


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## BertRoot (Dec 7, 2012)

Mine has a 183 on it now if that is any help with no clearance issues.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Today, I removed the conical washers to help the brake pads align better with the rotors. I removed both sets, as one set by itself doesn't do anything. I replaced the original long bolts with some shorter ones that I had in my parts bin left over from some other brakes.

I was pretty concerned as I had some significant (easily visible) wear on several of the brake pads which meant that the unused part of the pad was thicker than the worn part of the pad. I thought that this would hit the brake rotor first, and maybe be the only part that hit the rotor until wear evened out. I only had time for a little test ride, but the brakes seem to work just fine. The uneven pads are still in the back of my mind, though...

I also looked at the bolts that mount the adapter to the fork. Mine don't foul like exigetastic's (above) but the end of the bolt protrudes from the fork's mount and is rrreeeeeeaaaaallll close to the rotor. I'll put a washer or two under the bolt heads like exigetastic recommends as soon as I can get to the hardware store.

I also found out that the Elixr 1s have a reach adjust screw between the lever and the bar. It takes a hex key, and I may tweak the reach a little on mine.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

JoeG said:


> I was pretty concerned as I had some significant (easily visible) wear on several of the brake pads which meant that the unused part of the pad was thicker than the worn part of the pad. I thought that this would hit the brake rotor first, and maybe be the only part that hit the rotor until wear evened out. I only had time for a little test ride, but the brakes seem to work just fine. The uneven pads are still in the back of my mind, though...


I wouldn't worry about the uneven pad wear at this point. As you ride more it will wear down and everything will even out.


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## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

JoeG said:


> I also looked at the bolts that mount the adapter to the fork. Mine don't foul like exigetastic's (above) but the end of the bolt protrudes from the fork's mount and is rrreeeeeeaaaaallll close to the rotor. I'll put a washer or two under the bolt heads like exigetastic recommends as soon as I can get to the hardware store.


Yep when mine was brand new it JUST cleared. However I had to tighten the cones after a few short rides, and that moved the rotor just enough to foul the bolts.

After my last ride I noticed my front cones are lose again which might be why I'm getting such horrendous pad wear (<30 miles per set).

I've ordered some XTs anyway (matches my other bikes so I can have consistent spares). So some time in the shed scheduled this week and I'll properly investigate the cone issue.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

I stopped by the hardware store this evening and bought some stainless steel washers. I put one under each of the bolts that attaches the brake adapter to the fork. Now the bots don't stick out beyond the brake mount anymore. 

Anyone that has a Fatty with the original bolt configuration needs to go and spend 36 cents or so at the hardware store in order to avoid a potential problem with the bolts fouling the rotor.


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## El Caballo (Nov 22, 2004)

*Front derailleur?*

Perhaps a dumb question, but: *How the heck do I get a front derailleur on this thing?* The one I have in my parts box doesn't have nearly enough swing to make it out to the chainrings. (I've got a Hussefelt 22-32-bash on there)

Do I need an E-type FD?
Can I bolt a high direct-mount FD onto the plate for the chainguide that On-One sent out?

On the good side, the chain does clear the tire, even in small-small (though it's close...only a few mm of clearance)


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## flobukki (Nov 6, 2012)

El Caballo said:


> Perhaps a dumb question, but: *How the heck do I get a front derailleur on this thing?* The one I have in my parts box doesn't have nearly enough swing to make it out to the chainrings. (I've got a Hussefelt 22-32-bash on there)
> 
> Do I need an E-type FD?
> Can I bolt a high direct-mount FD onto the plate for the chainguide that On-One sent out?
> ...


i wanted to ask the same question. on ed oxley's flickr it looks like a stock slx-derailleur.


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## sippel (Sep 29, 2011)

What real width tires on this rim?


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

flobukki said:


> i wanted to ask the same question. on ed oxley's flickr it looks like a stock slx-derailleur.


It's a stock model, but has been modified with a file and longer bolts apparently.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

exigetastic said:


> Yep when mine was brand new it JUST cleared. However I had to tighten the cones after a few short rides, and that moved the rotor just enough to foul the bolts.
> 
> After my last ride I noticed my front cones are lose again which might be why I'm getting such horrendous pad wear (<30 miles per set).
> 
> I've ordered some XTs anyway (matches my other bikes so I can have consistent spares). So some time in the shed scheduled this week and I'll properly investigate the cone issue.


When you say you have had to tighten the cones, do you mean the front hub has been getting slack at the bearings?
Are your pads dragging alot?


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## flobukki (Nov 6, 2012)

sounds doable


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## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

*Shifting*

Both Problem Solvers and 9.0.7 sell a bracket that bolts to the frame and the direct mount derailleur bolts to that. All the Mukluks have it. However, I am currently trying to make mine work. It does not-problem solvers version. The Sram x7 front 10 speed 2x10 direct mount derailleur they come with will not shift properly with it. It appears that it does not move the body of the derailleur out far enough. When you shift, the swinging arm comes in contact with the bracket holding the cable housing. If you put the cable through one of the guides on the rocker, then the cable gets in the way of the housing. Either way, at present, I see no way of making a clean shift-that's with the ethirteen 22/36 crank. Meanwhile, in the rear of the bike, there seems to be issues as well. Still looking into those, but that;s for a different thread. It doesn't shift nearly as well as the ON ONE FATTY. Good job ON ONE!!!!


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## hbourj (Nov 20, 2012)

brant said:


> It's a stock model, but has been modified with a file and longer bolts apparently.


I did it with a XT front derailleur, on a Hussefelt 22-32, and I only changed one limit screw for a longer. Very easy.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

builder - there are 3 different PS direct mount adapters; 68-73 mm BB, 100 mm BB, and Moonlander. Are you sure that you have the right one?

Problem Solvers

Edit - the PS page above says it works with Shimano FDs. It doesn't say anything about SRAM.


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## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

That's what I'm not sure of. It came spec'd on the Muk2. It does not stand off far enough according to SRAM technical data. 40 as opposed to 43mm. I can't find the dimensions of the different ones from Problem Solvers. It also seems I have the standard cage front direct mound instead of the compact cage unit. Salsa is really slipping. This has been a cluster____ since day one, and yes it's all stock. I really like the e-thirteen crankset, but it doesn't seem to shift all that well, and the issues with the front derailleur just make it worse. Then they threw on a really inexpensive KMC chain. I run all KMC high end chains on all my bikes, but this one just seems to add to the mess. Parts are not parts, even back in the day......


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## El Caballo (Nov 22, 2004)

hbourj said:


> I did it with a XT front derailleur, on a Hussefelt 22-32, and I only changed one limit screw for a longer. Very easy.


Which XT? Low clamp or high clamp? (I know it's top pull) Is it a 3x9, 2x10, 3x10?

Same question with the SLX: which version? Low or high clamp, 2x10, 3x10?


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## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

*ps*

Oh, and yes, I saw that they only work with Shimano. Elsewhere on the website they mention Sram too, but that had me questioning what was going on.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Just a word of praise for Titus. I received my (missing) chainguide yesterday. They addressed the above-mentioned issue concerning the conical washers on the brakes mounts with haste, publicly, and professionally. They also agreed to let me swap my (mistakenly built) black bars for white ones. Good way to handle these situations Titus, way to go!

On another note, how many of you are riding with that huge steerer and about 3 inches of spacers under stem? I laughed when I took my frame out of the box and saw that.


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## exigetastic (Sep 20, 2011)

autodoctor911 said:


> When you say you have had to tighten the cones, do you mean the front hub has been getting slack at the bearings?
> Are your pads dragging alot?


Yep I did mean the front bearings, the cones on the hub keeps loosening off. I've not really noticed much drag while riding. I started off my last ride with them tightened (tweaked in a carpark, so not properly), and by the end of the ride there was play again (only a 10 miler), it's not an on/off thing, it builds up (and you get used to it over the course of the ride). But you can easily feel the play afterwards if you hold the wheel by the rim and try to move it sideways.

My XT's arrived today, so tomorrow morning I'll be getting the bike in the stand, and sorting it properly.

The lateral run off caused by the loose bearings may very well be dramatically shortening the pad life, but as this would only occur during a side load (e.g. cornering) it's not something you can feel/hear/see with a casual spin of the wheel.

On the plus side, I will end up with all my 3 disc braked bikes with the identical brakes, so less spare pads / bleed kits etc. to keep in stock.

Si


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

bad andy said:


> On another note, how many of you are riding with that huge steerer and about 3 inches of spacers under stem? I laughed when I took my frame out of the box and saw that.


That bottom bracket must be really high to cause that. Maybe it is, maybe it isn't, or maybe they put them there so people could adjust the height themselves. It's a little tricky adding length to a steerer tube.


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## hbourj (Nov 20, 2012)

El Caballo said:


> Which XT? Low clamp or high clamp? (I know it's top pull) Is it a 3x9, 2x10, 3x10?
> 
> Same question with the SLX: which version? Low or high clamp, 2x10, 3x10?


Shimano XT M786 Conventional 2x10 Front Mech High Clamp dual pull


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Stevob said:


> That bottom bracket must be really high to cause that. Maybe it is, maybe it isn't, or maybe they put them there so people could adjust the height themselves. It's a little tricky adding length to a steerer tube.


Yeah, I figured it was so people could cut their steerer as they see fit. It's probably typical, though I haven't built too many bikes from out of the box before. I've seen some pics of people's steerers like that, so just curious if people are cutting or leaving as is. I cut mine, but had to tap the star nut further into the steerer to accommodate the cut.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

> how many of you are riding with that huge steerer and about 3 inches of spacers under stem? I laughed when I took my frame out of the box and saw that.


My 16" Fatty had 45mm of spacers under the stem as shipped and a 5mm spacer above the stem. Surprisingly, I've left it that way as the position feels good. I do plan to experiment with the bar height, though so we'll see where it ends up at. It may stay that way because of a short head tube and a fork that I assume isn't suspension corrected as there are no mainstream suspension forks yet.

My regular FS is slammed with a flat bar.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

bad andy said:


> ...On another note, how many of you are riding with that huge steerer and about 3 inches of spacers under stem? I laughed when I took my frame out of the box and saw that.


Oops, is a fashionable look more of an issue than the optimal riding position?


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## Guest (Jan 12, 2013)

Velobike said:


> Oops, is a fashionable look more of an issue than the optimal riding position?


c-mon it's all a fashion show.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

nvphatty said:


> c-mon it's all a fashion show.


My resident fashion expert (teenage daughter) assures me that nothing I can do, wear, or ride could ever be remotely fashionable.


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

doesn't on one own slingshot now?
cause y'know... travel fatbike and that "inchworm" effect with a giant contact patch couldn't hurt.
SHWING!


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

byknuts said:


> doesn't on one own slingshot now?
> cause y'know... travel fatbike and that "inchworm" effect with a giant contact patch couldn't hurt.
> SHWING!


No.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Velobike said:


> Quote:
> how many of you are riding with that huge steerer and about 3 inches of spacers under stem? I laughed when I took my frame out of the box and saw that.
> 
> Oops, is a fashionable look more of an issue than the optimal riding position?


I actually had the fork left longer, and added an extra 30mm to the 80mm spacer stack, by using 2 40mm, a 20 and a 10mm spacers. Yeah, it looks a little odd, but it was the only way to get the bars up level with the seat. It does have a high BB, which is good for the rocky trails i often ride. It also has a very short headtube for standover clearance.
I may swap the bars out for a high rise bar, like a BMX 5.5", but I kinda like the hand position on the swept back Mary bars. 
I may loose some spacers when I get a Lefty with 130mm of travel on it though. But, I will be able to sell the Fatty fork to someone who wants their Pugs, or other fat bike to steer right and gain some ground clearance, and may have a taller head tube.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

autodoctor911 said:


> I actually had the fork left longer, and added an extra 30mm to the 80mm spacer stack, by using 2 40mm, a 20 and a 10mm spacers. Yeah, it looks a little odd, but it was the only way to get the bars up level with the seat....


When I did the dissection of the Fatty, I was going to comment negatively on the very short head, but considering that this bike is aimed at new comers to fatbiking, their decision to keep it looking more fashionably XC is probably right, so I didn't comment. My medium 907 has a 140mm head against the 100mm of the Fatty. This is something the Alaskan bike makers have right IMO, and even my Salsa frame is 130mm.

I'm with you in having the bars as high as is needed to be comfortable, and for that reason I prefer a long steering head. The amount of time aerodynamics are a factor in my fatbiking are very rare and usually a headwind rather than pace.

When your head is down you're just looking at the bit of track in front of you, with it up you can enjoy looking at the places your fatbike is taking you. Basically trail centre type use versus adventure use.


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## flobukki (Nov 6, 2012)

i am pro bigger head tubes too. also judging from a lot of fatbikes ive seen on forums more people are using spacers than on normal rides it seems.


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## Guest (Jan 14, 2013)

autodoctor911 said:


> But, I will be able to sell the Fatty fork to someone who wants their Pugs, or other fat bike to steer right and gain some ground clearance, and may have a taller head tube.


don't need my pug with more GC nor do i want a taller head tube for slacker setup. :skep:


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

nvphatty said:


> don't need my pug with more GC nor do i want a taller head tube for slacker setup. :skep:


it's not the slacker angle that will help the steering, It's the increased rake. It would actually feel more like a less slack head angle, since the trail would actually decrease. As Velo pointed out earlier, the Pugs, and On-One frames are nearly identical with the same fork on both of them.
Edit: except for TT length and standover clearance. With the medium Fatty, you get the standover clearance of a Small pugs, with the TT length of an XL.


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## Guest (Jan 15, 2013)

autodoctor911 said:


> it's not the slacker angle that will help the steering, It's the increased rake. It would actually feel more like a less slack head angle, since the trail would actually decrease. As Velo pointed out earlier, the Pugs, and On-One frames are nearly identical with the same fork on both of them.
> Edit: except for TT length and standover clearance. With the medium Fatty, you get the standover clearance of a Small pugs, with the TT length of an XL.


it already has less than most, ie MTB feel.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

nvphatty said:


> it already has less than most, ie MTB feel.


I was just suggesting that it would be better steering because some people have complained about the self steer on the Pugsly . It is more or less evident depending on tire selection, but is basically a function of flop, or how much the front of the bike goes up and down as the fork is turned. I noticed it on the Pugsly when I test rode one, and more so on the Moonie. I have noticed it on a lot of MTBs though. I also noticed it on the DB Monocog 29er, which is why I waited for the Raliegh to come out. It is not present on the On-One at all.

It really only affects the feel, not the handling, unless you're riding with no hands. but, I feel like I can corner faster, and steer around obstacles at low speed better when I am using my hand force to steer into the turn, rather than holding back the bars from turning more.

the tires with a more square profile throw the trail off to the side of center more than a rounded one when leaned over, which reduces it's ability to self-center. That's why, even though a some square tread profile tires may give better grip when leaned over, you don't want it on the front.

Also, the front is automatically leaned over more than the rear due to the head angle, and can go past where the square tread is able to provide traction. Although this doesn't usually happen.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

*Tubeless Success!!!*

Well, this is about my 3rd or 4th attempt at tubeless with the Fatty rim and Floater tires. :madman: And it looks like I got it to work! :thumbsup:

A quick summary:
- 2 layers of foam between the bead shelves
- 3 wraps of 1" wide Gorilla Tape (left, right, center overlaps both)
- Valve cut from a QBP Q Tube with removable core
- 3 oz Stan's sealant

I was still able to fit the tire by hand and air it up with a floor pump. The Floater tire carcass is not at all porous; I didn't see any Stan's leaking through pinholes in the casing like some tires.

Weight before 8 lbs, 7 oz or 3.83 kg (front wheel ready to ride w/rotor, skewer, etc)
Weight after 7 lbs, 9 oz or 3.44 kg
Difference 14 oz or 0.39 kg for one wheel!

If it works fine tomorrow when I ride, I'll do some photos and step by step instructions when I do the rear wheel.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Hey I'm just curious. I'm not trying to rile up anything, but really just curious on the true advantage of tubeless on a fatbike? The weight loss can easily, and with less trouble be achieved with light weight tubes. Are people really just going tubeless to run even lower PSI? I mean, you already run ridiculously low PSI on a fatbike anyway, so what does it boil down to? Is it just better pinch- flat prevention? Better feel without a tube? Just curious about opinions. I run tubeless on my trail and DH bikes and the advantages are very obvious there, but on a fatbike it doesn't seem like it would have as many advantages.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Bad Andy - I went to tubeless on my regular mountain bikes for 2 main reasons:
- the sealant plugs leaks from punctures; there are a lot of thorns where I ride.
- so that I could run lower pressures for improved traction.
Saving weight was also a plus for me. I probably get about one or two flats per year now; sometimes due to burping the tire in a bad crash, sometimes due to letting the sealant dry out. :blush: but I spend a whole lot less time fixing flats on the trail tubeless.

As far as my Fatty, the OEM tubes were about 600 grams each!  I could have bought lighter tubes, but I plan to ride my Fatty as a regular trail bike as well as in snow, so still have concerns with thorns. And pumping up a fat tire after a puncture on the trail is something that I'd like to avoid. We'll see how it works out for me.

About the only reason that I can see for using tubes would be if you switch tires often. Then, it would be a lot faster and less messy to run tubes.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Ah yes thorns, very valid. No thorns near me, but a bunch of rocky NE style singletrack so pinch flats could be a concern. That is worth considering. I've seen a lot of tubeless approaches for fatbikes and it's pretty cool to see how everyone's system is a bit different. I may still try it myself, but in the meantime to lighten up I found some Schwalbe tubes that are just under 200gm apiece. That should help with the weight aspect. We'll see how they work out. If I do start getting flats, then y'all will know my next step...


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

This is what pushed me to do it; 5 thorns in 2 tubes on one ride on a Friday evening. The LBS was closed by the time I was done riding, so I couldn't buy new tubes. And I was meeting some friends for a ride the following morning. So I stayed up till almost midnight patching tubes. Never again, I said...

Edit - last year when I put on new tires, I discovered a 1 inch long piece of rusty wire or a nail stuck in one of my tires. I never even knew that I hit it...


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Front tire tubeless was a success! :thumbsup: I rode 10+ miles today; everything from mud to frozen ground. Front tire was great, no problems at all. I had 7 psi in it and I'll probably try 6 psi next time. 

So, I will definitely convert the rear wheel to tubeless either tonight or tomorrow. I've already cleaned it up real good, and its drying.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

JoeG said:


> Front tire tubeless was a success! :thumbsup: I rode 10+ miles today; everything from mud to frozen ground. Front tire was great, no problems at all. I had 7 psi in it and I'll probably try 6 psi next time.
> 
> So, I will definitely convert the rear wheel to tubeless either tonight or tomorrow. I've already cleaned it up real good, and its drying.


Great news. I am still having trouble with the bead getting, and staying seated with the stock tubes. I am guessing that your tape application has solved this I am working on some lightweight wheels with 47mm Neon rims, but until I get the 9-36t hub figured out, I'll be trying to go tubeless and probably drill some holes in the 70mm rims.
If you can, I'd love to see some pics of the rear foam and tape application.
And, what foam is it you're using?
Is it resistant to absorbing water?
Where do you get it?


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

I had trouble getting my tire bead to seat with tubes. Soapy water on the bead helped a lot. The other thing that I found that worked was pumping them up to 30-40 psi. I still had to pump the tires up real hard to get the bead to seat tubeless.

I will post photos and give a full description, but the power was out till lunch time here. Lots of wind overnight...


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

I decided to do my tubeless instructions as a new thread http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/one-fatty-wheelset-floater-tire-tubeless-setup-how-834852.html#post10091112


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## pigsley (Jun 18, 2011)

Im sure this has already been covered but i dont wanna read every post.  When can we expect to be able to buy just the frame from On One or Titus?


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## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

There's a new string on ON ONE Fatty tubeless set-up. Incredibly well done. The secret is sill foam-what they use in construction under the 2x4's they put on the sill/ or top of the basement wall. It's a closed cell foam. Very structurally sound-and not heavy at all. Wonderful stuff to work with. He used 2 layers.


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## Saul Lumikko (Oct 23, 2012)

Sill foam is what I used as well. I'm quite sure I picked up the idea on this forum. I had a wide roll but I just cut the required strip with scissors.

The downside is that after a while the foam has compressed and will not regain its shape, so when you remove the tire you also need to remove the rim strip (or tape) and replace the sill foam with fresh strips.

Still, at 20 grams for the tape and foam per tire I'm not complaining.  (The Surly rim strip weighed in at 107 grams.) Just a split tube over the tape and foam and tires seated with a floor pump.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

New Fatty video from Ed Oxley. :thumbsup:

Rocking The Fat One on Vimeo


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

» OnOne Fatty Carbon by Sarto Shed Fire : Designing for On-One, Titus and Planet X from Calderdale.

Anyone know what going on with this?

carbon on-one fatty?


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

ljracer said:


> » OnOne Fatty Carbon by Sarto Shed Fire : Designing for On-One, Titus and Planet X from Calderdale.
> 
> Anyone know what going on with this?
> 
> carbon on-one fatty?


Well I know.
What do you want to know?


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

brant said:


> Well I know.
> What do you want to know?


Plans for sale? Frame only or completes , timeline.

Thanks!


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## easterntide (Sep 1, 2012)

*i second that request for info!*

i didn't even know this was a potential...very interested!



ljracer said:


> Plans for sale? Frame only or completes , timeline.
> 
> Thanks!


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## 98srx6 (Jun 25, 2012)

brant said:


> Well I know.
> What do you want to know?


Estimated availability, weight, geometry, price, etc, etc, etc?

I predict on one will dominate the world of fat bike innovation if things over there keep progressing as they have been. I for one appreciate their openness while a product its in development stages as well as their drive for truly better products at a better price.


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

hangonasec, say whozzis? full carbon fatty!?
well hellooooo there!!


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

Please don't say "it will be available in six months" :skep:


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

brant said:


> Well I know.
> What do you want to know?


everything.


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## Guest (Jan 31, 2013)

JoeG said:


> Please don't say "it will be available in six months" :skep:


ok it'll be avail in 7 months


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## Dogdude222 (Aug 31, 2005)

brant said:


> Well I know.
> What do you want to know?


Brant, I know that you're not going to spill all the beans.

Nonetheless, I want *you* to know that I would sell multiple other bikes to buy a carbon fatbike. I would even be willing to give up my internally geared hub.

Please, make this happen. It has been way too long coming.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

I'm starting to feel glad that I can't afford a fatty just yet...might save the pennies for a little longer if this comes to fruition.


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

New info has been posted. Apparently, this is an exercise to test the capabilities of the factory and is a one-off, for the time being. See here. Fattycarbonio | Products | News - Bringing FAT bike love to YOU At an estimated $3250.00, it ain't gonna be for everyone.


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## drofluf (Dec 12, 2010)

Bit more info here


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

Guitar Ted said:


> New info has been posted. Apparently, this is an exercise to test the capabilities of the factory and is a one-off, for the time being. See here. Fattycarbonio | Products | News - Bringing FAT bike love to YOU At an estimated $3250.00, it ain't gonna be for everyone.


Sarto is a framebuilder in Italy (in my town), we are not in China, so, no economy work here, BUT, I can say that's Sarto is one of the best carbon framebuilder here in Italy, he does the 99% of the carbon frame (road+mtb) that Italian and European society sell under their names.

So, I'm very intresting on what Brant+Sarto will do toghether...


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## qbert2000 (Jul 30, 2008)

gretch said:


> Here's mine... changed the saddle, stem, grips and tubes, .. 34 lbs with pedals (size L)...


how tall are you?


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

» Redid the rear stays on Fatty Carbonio - it ships on Wednesday. Shed Fire : Designing for On-One, Titus and Planet X from Calderdale.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Got clearance?...I'd say so


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

On a more mundane note, On-One USA now has Fatty derailleur hangers for sale. I always like to have a spare one on hand.

Fatty Derailleur Hanger


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## Vincentg (Sep 24, 2008)

Three Q's:

Weight of medium frame? Clearance for a Lou in the rear? When can I buy a naked frame? Thanks!!!


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## col200 (Apr 20, 2004)

For those of you who have converted the Fatty's stock wheels to tubeless, how are they holding up? Are they holding pressure?
I've been pounding this bike to hell and back and it's holding up well. My guess is that the rear der. or Elixir brakes will be the first to go.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

My gorilla tape tubeless front is just fine.  I'm still looking for the right glue to use to bond 1/2 of a Stan's rim strip to a split BMX tube for the rear. Regular rubber cement that you would use for patches didn't hold.

I probably have close to 200 miles on my Fatty so far. :thumbsup:

I just dropped my Fatty off at the LBS for a brake bleed today at lunch time. :sad: The mechanic there likes Avid brakes though, so hopefully a bleed will do the trick.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Crap weather here. Can't ride due to thawing, messy trails so I decided to finally undertake drilling my rims. Only got the front done so far, but pretty happy with the turnout. Dropped 7oz. off the rim itself, and in conjunction with swapping in a lighter weight tube, my front wheel is now a total of 1lb 3oz. lighter. Nice. (Looking forward to doing the rear as well for almost 2.5lb loss in total) Here's a pic...


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

I like your visual indicator for the position of the valve.


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

I've drilled and tubeless my wheels too.

For the tubeless setup there's a great howto by JoeG that shows how to make tubeless whitout headhache.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Velobike said:


> I like your visual indicator for the position of the valve.


Thanks! I didn't want to go all orange, but I did want some 



bricke said:


> I've drilled and tubeless my wheels too.
> 
> For the tubeless setup there's a great howto by JoeG that shows how to make tubeless whitout headhache.


I've seen that write-up - it's really good, just not sure I wanted to try all that yet. Can anyone confirm what their weight loss per wheel has been doing that set-up? When I compared it looked like a moot point between all that stuff and a 183gm tube. Very little difference.

(of course is I now start pinch-flatting, you can guess what I will be doing)


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Did you use the technique for drilling outlined Ina thread here? Interested in drilling my fat front wheel but a bit nervous at screwing it up!

Brant - Any ETA on the next round of complete bikes?


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

trumpus said:


> Interested in drilling my fat front wheel but a bit nervous at screwing it up!


I drilled some Surly rims and it wasn't hard. Just take your time, measure twice - drill once and plug the valve stem hole so you don't drill it out thinking it's a pilot hole. That's about the only real goof you can do.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

vikb said:


> I drilled some Surly rims and it wasn't hard. Just take your time, measure twice - drill once and plug the valve stem hole so you don't drill it out thinking it's a pilot hole. That's about the only real goof you can do.


Did you use a template? A jig to hold the rim? Did you unlace the hub or do it on a built wheel?


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

trumpus said:


> Did you use the technique for drilling outlined Ina thread here? Interested in drilling my fat front wheel but a bit nervous at screwing it up!


I did it with the wheel built, as described ina thread here (and linked youtube video) pretty much followed the same technique. Bought the same sized hole-saw (1.25") Tried as precisely as I could to create a template for the starter holes and went to town. No jig, nothing. Just rested the wheel standing up, on a thick welcome mat, and held the rim in place with my monster calves. I did have to borrow my dad's 50's-style plug-in drill because my poor battery powered drill was crying after 2 holes. Cleaned up the flash and such with a dremel and some sanding bits and she was good to go. Took awhile though, 2+ hours. Hopefully I've honed my technique when I undertake the rear wheel to bring that time down a bit.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

trumpus said:


> Did you use a template? A jig to hold the rim? Did you unlace the hub or do it on a built wheel?












I drilled the rims out while it was built into a set of wheels. Used a ruler to mark spots for pilot holes between spokes. Drilled small pilot holes and then used a hole saw to make the bigger holes. Then smoothed the edges with a dremel.










They aren't going to win a prize at NAHBS... , but my GF gets lots of compliments on her wheels and she dropped 100g per wheel.


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

*Here's my Fatty with a Lefty*

I got this running today. The usual Lefty fat setup with Mendon Cycle Smith's offset clamps. I used a Marge Light rim and a project 321 hub. It's only been for a 5 minute ride around the part at the end of my street, and I still need to set up the lefty and fiddle with the bars and stem height.

Thanks to Craig for all the advice and the clamps, and Wadster on tensioning the lefty headset.

I got the Lefty from RLC Sports here in Australia. They put a new PBR cartridge in it and reduced the travel to 90mm. Total cost for the Lefty, clamps, rim and hub was a bit less that $1,000.

Building the wheel with 17.5mm offset was much simpler than I expected.

Tim


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## Vincentg (Sep 24, 2008)

Can somebody please post a measured frame weight?


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## Traktor (Oct 18, 2004)

They aren't going to win a prize at NAHBS... , but my GF gets lots of compliments on her wheels and she dropped 100g per wheel.


How will you ever clean the mud from the space between the walls?


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Traktor said:


> They aren't going to win a prize at NAHBS... , but my GF gets lots of compliments on her wheels and she dropped 100g per wheel.
> 
> How will you ever clean the mud from the space between the walls?


It's been through a summer in Canada and a winter in Baja. So far nothing has accumulated in the cut outs. No mud, no dirt, no sand, no rocks, etc... We rarely get the uber sticky clay type mud so I can't report on that.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Here is a post from their UK site...looks cool...maybe my next ride for next winter.

On-One Fatty


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## stesteste (Mar 22, 2013)

can the fatty wheels be tubless and drilled if so what weight is lost thanks

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

stesteste said:


> can the fatty wheels be tubless and drilled if so what weight is lost thanks


Here are some related links. The difference between the Surly 82mm rims with and without cut outs is 170g. You should see some similar savings with the On One stock rims. However - the holes they use are pretty small so you can push that up a bit.

Pugsley wheel weight savings&#8230; | The Lazy Rando Blog...

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fat-rims-cutouts-show-us-your-mods-764661.html

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/tubeless-darryl-745684.html

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/tubeless-tuesday-827178.html


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

stesteste said:


> can the fatty wheels be tubless and drilled if so what weight is lost thanks
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2


I just drilled my fatty rims with a 1.25" hole saw. Weight savings is about 200g per wheel. I didn't bother with tubeless and opted for lightweight Schwalbe freeride tubes instead. I saved a bit over 1lb per wheel!


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

So it looks like the On One UK site has the Fatty's in stock, but the Planet X/US site does not. Any thoughts on what I should do if I am interested in purchasing one in the US? Weird that even with the $100 shipping that it costs less to get it from the UK than the US?


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## sickmtbnutcase (Nov 5, 2012)

A friend of mine just got the one he bought off the UK site. Just order if from there.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

If you order a Fatty from the UK site, you also have choices for a number of the components. Stuff like black or white bars and saddle, stem length, and a couple of grip options. I ordered mine in the first batch from the US and there were no options other than S, M, or L frame.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

JoeG said:


> If you order a Fatty from the UK site, you also have choices for a number of the components. Stuff like black or white bars and saddle, stem length, and a couple of grip options. I ordered mine in the first batch from the US and there were no options other than S, M, or L frame.


I'd love to see Surly, Salsa, On One sell frames and build kits separately, but at OEM pricing so you could select your wheels and parts spec from a few options while not facing the $$ hit of just buying a frame and buying parts one at a time.

Perhaps this option would come unassembled for the home mechanic to build so it saves the company some $$ to offset the hassle.


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## Burnt-Orange (Dec 10, 2008)

I like the frame 
I just have way too many parts laying around to give it a try


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## Saul Lumikko (Oct 23, 2012)

bad andy said:


> Can anyone confirm what their weight loss per wheel has been doing that set-up? When I compared it looked like a moot point between all that stuff and a 183gm tube. Very little difference.


Tubeless isn't just about weight savings (sometimes there isn't any), but the protection against flats and decreased rolling resistance at any usable pressure, not just low ones.

Also in the realm of fat bikes, light tubes and low pressures may not mix well. I didn't get any pinch flats, but the tire started rotating on the wheel and there was a huge dent on the sidewall at the valve. If you're a clyde, you are likely to use higher pressures, but I'm so lightly built I need the low pressure ability. (Note that this was with Clown Shoe rims and BFL tires, so there's more volume to fill. The tube I tried was the usual 185 g Schwalbe SV13F.)


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

> I'd love to see Surly, Salsa, On One sell frames and build kits separately, but at OEM pricing so you could select your wheels and parts spec from a few options while not facing the $$ hit of just buying a frame and buying parts one at a time.
> 
> Perhaps this option would come unassembled for the home mechanic to build so it saves the company some $$ to offset the hassle.


I like this idea, and think that it might be a good option for the direct to consumer bikes like On-One. :thumbsup: I pretty much tore my Fatty apart anyhow because I went to a 2x10 Shimano XT and RaceFace setup. I think that Surly and Salsa are set up on the dealer model, so they'd find it difficult to start selling bike kits, though.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

> Can anyone confirm what their weight loss per wheel has been doing that set-up?


I lost 14 oz (390 grams or so) per wheel using Gorilla tape and Stan's instead of the heavy (600 g) OEM tubes on my Fatty.

I have not drilled my rims.


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## stesteste (Mar 22, 2013)

thx guys think i will just go tubless sraight away for the extra performance and use stans. 

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

Hi everyone, who know what's the difference between the 1°gen geometry and this 2°gen "improved" geo?


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

bricke said:


> Hi everyone, who know what's the difference between the 1°gen geometry and this 2°gen "improved" geo?


You can regard the Pug as 1st gen. Add a On-One fork to it, and it magically transforms to almost the same geo as 2nd gen. 

So basically 2nd gen looks to me to be the same as first gen but lifted higher at the front to accommodate future suspension forks.

The important thing the On-One has is a well gussetted head area that enables the frame to handle a longer fork without flexing and twisting. It seems to work well - it's been given a good hammering by assorted riders.

(I've tried a long fork on a Pug and didn't like the handling - but others do, so remember this my opinion not fact)


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## Bigggs (Jan 8, 2009)

Anyone know the import tax/duties for an Fatty if it's shipped from the UK? I'm getting a bit impatient waiting for the US stock to show up.


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## stesteste (Mar 22, 2013)

got my gorilla tape to go tubeless, 27 meters x 73mm should have enough there just need a bike now roll on friday

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2


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## Flying_Scotsman (Jul 12, 2011)

vikb said:


> Perhaps this option would come unassembled for the home mechanic to build so it saves the company some $$ to offset the hassle.


This is what I want, I like the building as much as the riding and I got a row from the wife at even thinking of a pre built bike after having my eye on a 9 zero 7 frame and starting from scratch.


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

Velobike said:


> You can regard the Pug as 1st gen. Add a On-One fork to it, and it magically transforms to almost the same geo as 2nd gen.
> 
> So basically 2nd gen looks to me to be the same as first gen but lifted higher at the front to accommodate future suspension forks.
> 
> ...


So, is this new fork taller?


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

The OnOne fork is a pretty standard 470mm A/C, but with 55mm offset which reduces trail to complement the slacker 68 degree H/A. This is the only geo the Fatty has had. First gen probably refers to other fat bikes with steeper H/A and less offset on the fork.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

bricke said:


> So, is this new fork taller?


My Pug fork is 447mm A-C, and the fork on my Fatty 470mm. If you fit a Salsa fork to a Pug, it's 468mm A-C.

So it's quite easy to lift the front end of the Pug, thus slackening the apparent HA, and also lessening the BB drop.

Alternatively you could fit a Fatty fork onto the Pug if you wanted the slacker HA and the different offset.


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## fluap (Aug 8, 2012)

Saul Lumikko said:


> Tubeless isn't just about weight savings (sometimes there isn't any), but the protection against flats and decreased rolling resistance at any usable pressure, not just low ones.
> 
> Also in the realm of fat bikes, light tubes and low pressures may not mix well. I didn't get any pinch flats, but the tire started rotating on the wheel and there was a huge dent on the sidewall at the valve. If you're a clyde, you are likely to use higher pressures, but I'm so lightly built I need the low pressure ability. (Note that this was with Clown Shoe rims and BFL tires, so there's more volume to fill. The tube I tried was the usual 185 g Schwalbe SV13F.)


I put the Schwalbe tubes in also, big and noticeable weight saving, BUT!... The problem is they expand so much past their original size inside the tyre, that if they do get a puncture, they're almost impossible to patch due to the stretch. The patch just peels off (overnight in my case).

FYI, my puncture wasn't due to a foreign object. It came about by the tube rubbing on one of the 4 holes drilled into the inner edge of the rim. I've since covered them with Gaffer tape and had no problems.

I'll probably try tubeless soon.


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## fluap (Aug 8, 2012)

bad andy said:


> I just drilled my fatty rims with a 1.25" hole saw. Weight savings is about 200g per wheel. I didn't bother with tubeless and opted for lightweight Schwalbe freeride tubes instead. I saved a bit over 1lb per wheel!


I expanded my holes out to 36mm each. This gave a saving of nearly 400g per wheel. It doesn't leave much metal where the spokes are, but I use mine on fairly heavy duty XC courses, and had no issues yet.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

fluap said:


> I expanded my holes out to 36mm each. This gave a saving of nearly 400g per wheel. It doesn't leave much metal where the spokes are, but I use mine on fairly heavy duty XC courses, and had no issues yet.


pics please


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## fluap (Aug 8, 2012)

autodoctor911 said:


> pics please


I'll see if I can get some pictures later on today. Looks great with orange tape inside to match the frame decals. BTW, I used a step drill to take it from the original 25mm up to 36mm. The hole was neater, but it was a lot of work and lube is a must.

Edit... Pictures...


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## stesteste (Mar 22, 2013)

very nice fluap you did a good job now you can swop and change your tape whenever you want like getting new wheels plus allterain cycles are doing surly tubes a tyres if you ever wanted a different set up 

ps what is the thudbuster like i was thinking about one of those


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## fluap (Aug 8, 2012)

stesteste said:


> very nice fluap you did a good job now you can swop and change your tape whenever you want like getting new wheels plus allterain cycles are doing surly tubes a tyres if you ever wanted a different set up
> 
> ps what is the thudbuster like i was thinking about one of those


I think with the terrain we have here in Australia in winter (lots of mud), these tyres should handle it well. Once prices come down a lot, I'll probably go for Escalator or something light like that.

Changing colour rim strips is a bit of a bugger. There's a couple of layers of Gaffer tape there to ensure it doesn't break through. To change it I have to cut it off.

The thudbuster is awesome, slightly heavy but the benefits outweigh the weight. It has some funny traits that take a little time to get used to, but overall it's a nice cushy ride.


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## stesteste (Mar 22, 2013)

ooooh i put some clear tape on sticky up and then put materail on then another clear tape then original rim strip
you could of also doubled up the tape and stuck it together then put original rim strip if needed just a thought if you ever wanna change


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## fluap (Aug 8, 2012)

stesteste said:


> ooooh i put some clear tape on sticky up and then put materail on then another clear tape then original rim strip
> you could of also doubled up the tape and stuck it together then put original rim strip if needed just a thought if you ever wanna change


My original rim strip was Gaffer tape too (I had a special wheelset, long story), so that wasn't an option. I'll be experimenting with Tubeless next, just ordered more Joes so I'll see how that goes shortly.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

stesteste said:


> very nice fluap you did a good job now you can swop and change your tape whenever you want like getting new wheels plus allterain cycles are doing surly tubes a tyres if you ever wanted a different set up
> 
> ps what is the thudbuster like i was thinking about one of those


I just got the thudbuster LT for my Fatty. I am going to try it out this weekend. I am still looking for a good seat. I think I will splurge and get a B17.

Anyone know if the Mandarin color Brooks seats would look OK with the Fatty orange, or what colors do any of you suggest for a B17 on a Fatty.


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## fluap (Aug 8, 2012)

autodoctor911 said:


> I just got the thudbuster LT for my Fatty. I am going to try it out this weekend. I am still looking for a good seat. I think I will splurge and get a B17.
> 
> Anyone know if the Mandarin color Brooks seats would look OK with the Fatty orange, or what colors do any of you suggest for a B17 on a Fatty.


A mixture of elastomers in the thudbuster produces good results I found. And you'll likely need to keep the seat nearly all the way forward in the bracket. Seat choice is much less of a problem when using this post. Mine's been transferred through several bikes.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Actually if you analyze the forces involved, the almost straight tubes from the rear axle to the head tube don't allow for much, if any vertical compliance in the triangular, half diamond main frame structure. The curved brace to the long extension on the seat tube, however does flex quit a bit, and the seat tube with it. This is one of the main reasons I want a thudbuster on there. with the rocky trails I ride, and me weighing 250lbs, I worry about all the seat tube flex, and I hope the cushioning of the seat post will alleviate some of the highest forces/ flexing.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Oh, the fork flexes a lot too. I didn't know it was steel at first, so i was worried for a second, till I looked at the small welds, and grabbed a magnet to verify. It is steel.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Eric603 said:


> The top tube / chain stay thing suggests vertical compliance but how does that match with using aluminum?


I very much doubt that there will be significant measurable vertical compliance in any triangulated rear end within the ranges of forces transmitted through a tyre at 8-10psi.

BTW aluminium is not stiffer than steel, it's just lighter - the stiffness comes from using large sections necessary to stop the tubes collapsing.


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## Fatsinglespeeder (Jan 24, 2013)

autodoctor911 said:


> I just got the thudbuster LT for my Fatty. I am going to try it out this weekend. I am still looking for a good seat...





autodoctor911 said:


> ...with the rocky trails I ride, and me weighing 250lbs...


Let me suggest the Rido R2: The RIDO 'R2': a uniquely comfortable sports bicycle saddle.

As somebody with a sizable rear-end I've really come to appreciate this saddle. I've got it on a Thudbuster LT on my Moonlander and it's fantastic! No more discomfort on long rides!

Thanks to Outsider who first suggested it in this thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/cold-junk-817717.html


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Velobike said:


> I very much doubt that there will be significant measurable vertical compliance in any triangulated rear end within the ranges of forces transmitted through a tyre at 8-10psi.
> 
> BTW aluminium is not stiffer than steel, it's just lighter - the stiffness comes from using large sections necessary to stop the tubes collapsing.


I don't think he was referencing the stiffness often associated with aluminum, which is due to the larger cross sections allowed by lower density.

I think he was thinking about the lower fatigue resistance that aluminum exhibits. This is why you want an aluminum frame to be stiff. the more it flexes, the closer it is to failure.

I do notice that salsa makes the spearfish with aluminum rear seatstays that are designed to flex with suspension movement instead of having a pivot. I haven't heard about them failing yet, though. I guess some designed flex is OK with aluminum.


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## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

Fatsinglespeeder said:


> Thanks to Outsider who first suggested it in this thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/cold-junk-817717.html


I turned my nose up a bit, "Who would really make a thread titled so crassly?"

...Oh.

...

Well, it's still a pretty good saddle.


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

No one has tryed the beargrease fork or other tapered fork on the fatty? any pics?


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## stesteste (Mar 22, 2013)

autodoctor911 said:


> I just got the thudbuster LT for my Fatty. I am going to try it out this weekend. I am still looking for a good seat. I think I will splurge and get a B17.
> 
> Anyone know if the Mandarin color Brooks seats would look OK with the Fatty orange, or what colors do any of you suggest for a B17 on a Fatty.


probly the best thing i bout was the thudbuster tyres take up small medium bumps thudbuster takes the big one i can stay seated when i see big dip aswell it was a good purchase










Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

HI everyone, I'm trying to build a light wheelset for my fatty but I've a question: The front disk spacing is like the rear one or is like a classic front one?

Can I use the Hope FatSno front hub (rear disk spacing like) or I've to use the Paul WHUB (front spacing like) ??

Thank you.


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## Tor (Jan 5, 2013)

i tried to put a ordinary 26" rear wheel on the front and it doesn't fit. Looks like you can put spacers on the brake beacause it was only 5 mm off. I was thinking of buying a hope hub myself, so googled it and found this:
Fatbikes.com White Brother Snowpack Adaptor
So you (and I) can choose either hub


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Or on a fatty fork, just use 5mm of washers and longer bolts.


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## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

Carver also has 5mm spacers.


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## p_cycle (Jul 22, 2006)

what is the optimum stem size for this frame?
the one that compliments best it's handling virtues, besides rider's size and shape.


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## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

I would say it really is based on the riders style and size. Try some and see. It comes with a 60mm. For some people that would be best. For me I liked a 90mm stem. It's really a personal/experience thing. Too high makes for weird behavior on some frames. I haven't had that experience with my Fatty. Stems are cheap. buy some and see.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

It comes with 800mm handlebars, so consider that. While your current bike might have 700mm bars and a 90mm stem, a shorter stem and wider bars should even out.


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## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

*Slowly but surely getting there...*













































Will post more pics when I get there. Need one more part for the Lefty to make that complete...


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## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

*Got there...*









Just need a solo air piston to convert to PBR...


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

> It comes with 800mm handlebars


My Fatty's handlebars are 760 mm (30 inches) wide. I liked it so much that I already changed my full suspension bike to a similar wide bar & short stem setup! I believe that my bars are the Ancho B.

Unfortunately, On-One's website is more confusing than helpful when it comes to the Ancho and Ancho B bars. Various bar widths in mm and inches are sprinkled throughout the various descriptions, but are consistently wrong!

760 mm = 30 inches (well, actually 3/32 under)
810 mm = 31 7/8 inches

I think that the Ancho B is a 20 mm rise, while the Ancho is a lower (maybe 5mm?) rise. That's about what the pix show, but not what is in the text.

I like the bar that came on my Fatty, but I ordered a Race Face Atlas since I didn't know what would show up if I ordered a bar from On-One...


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## Tor (Jan 5, 2013)

@fyford: That looks very nice! I have just the same lefty fork waiting for MCS clamps
Do you what head angle you get when changing to lefty fork?


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

stesteste said:


>


I would love to know the make/model of that seat post. Comments about it? It certainly looks unique compared to the more common plain old pipe shape!


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## Fatsinglespeeder (Jan 24, 2013)

ro7939 said:


> I would love to know the make/model of that seat post. Comments about it? It certainly looks unique compared to the more common plain old pipe shape!


Cane Creek Thudbuster Quadra LT Seatpost | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

fyford said:


> View attachment 802033
> 
> 
> Just need a solo air piston to convert to PBR...


Is it true all Lefty forks do not accommodate 203mm rotor?


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

Bigggs said:


> Anyone know the import tax/duties for an Fatty if it's shipped from the UK? I'm getting a bit impatient waiting for the US stock to show up.


IIRC US customs duty for bikes and bike parts is 11% regardless of exporting nation...but please correct if anyone knows different. Last week I checked on a Chinese carbon frame.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

JoeG said:


> My Fatty's handlebars are 760 mm (30 inches) wide.


Hmm, well I was thinking of the 810mm ones it currently lists, but I guess I'll see on Tuesday when it shows up. I have some carbon 780s ready to switch out right away. I hope to sell the original bars on craigslist to someone who wants to upgrade to nearly 1m handlebars, or needs something to stun halibut. It's killing me right now because the bike is at the local closed sorting facility. Oh well.

As far as price, I paid 1495 shipped through Titus. Shipping was free, which really impressed me, as usually there's a hefty upcharge for shipping anything to AK.


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## Titus/On One USA (Jul 27, 2011)

Bigggs said:


> Anyone know the import tax/duties for an Fatty if it's shipped from the UK? I'm getting a bit impatient waiting for the US stock to show up.


The US stock of Fatty's has arrived and we have been shipping them out as quickly as we can get them assembled. If you ordered today it would ship on Wednesday (Monday is a holiday and we would get it assembled on Tuesday).
Thanks


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## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

I've stuck with 180... guess a Quick Google search shows a few threads on here suggesting you might want to change the boot to the newer version (newest ones don't have a boot at all mind) to avoid a 203 rubbing the boot, but quite a few people run 203's - I've never had a reason to go that big. Don't tend to use my brakes much


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## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

Hi Tor, with that clamp design you can slide it up and down a little, plus play around with the spacers so you get some flexibility. It feels super plush with the Lefty MAX. You won't regret it!

I'll let you know once I've done the PBR conversion as to what I end up with. If only I can find some stock of the those darn pistons...


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Stock bars that came on mine were 810mm El Guapo Ancho, absolutely friggin huge. Switched out the saddle for a nice 200g model, bar for a 780mm 160g carbon affair, tubes for normal thickness "oversize" ones and gears for a 11-28 219g unit. Now for a testride...

Edit: It also didn't have that gawdaful rim strip that was in the dissection thread. It seems to have a big wide sturdy rim strip that will prevent any kind of nipple/spoke interference.


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## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

ro7939 said:


> Is it true all Lefty forks do not accommodate 203mm rotor?


Not true.

Run them on a few of mine, no problems at all.

You do need "the modern" boot, but they have been the standard for almost 10 years, so I doubt you'd be using the original version anyway, unless you've got a ti legged DLR from around 2001, and never changed the boot.

Mr. Ford? Great looking set up there!


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## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

Thanks Craig, can't thank you enough for all the advice and superb service with delivering that Fat Lefty adapter, which is a piece of CNC art btw


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## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

fyford said:


> piece of CNC art btw


Can't take credit for that. Kevin at S+S Precision out in Merced CA gets the nod on that, top notch work for sure!


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## Jrask (Jun 1, 2013)

Has anyone used a Chariot trailer with On-One Fatty? Does the hitch fit?
I mean this one : For Your Second Bike


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

Jrask said:


> Has anyone used a Chariot trailer with On-One Fatty? Does the hitch fit?
> I mean this one : For Your Second Bike


Considering that there is no real documentation, I'll say ... I doubt it, unless you are able to take that little bracket off, and use it with the stock skewer.
The skewer in their picture is probably only available for a 135mm (or less) spacing.


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## Jrask (Jun 1, 2013)

bikeabuser said:


> Considering that there is no real documentation, I'll say ... I doubt it, unless you are able to take that little bracket off, and use it with the stock skewer.
> The skewer in their picture is probably only available for a 135mm (or less) spacing.


You can use any skewer, i was wondering if there is enough space at the dropout for the bracket.


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## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

*Out and about*















This is still with the Lefty in 26er mode (taking chances...) but heck it is such fun, like being on a bouncy castle at high speed  That's with the pressure quite low in the rear, no rebound settings on a Floater 

Had some issues getting the front end dead centre, did not realise you can veer off Mendon's marker line. As always he came to the rescue!


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## Tor (Jan 5, 2013)

you take some beautiful pictures Which top clamp are you using?


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## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

Tor said:


> you take some beautiful pictures Which top clamp are you using?


For the Lefty? That would be Mendon Cycle's, do a search you'll easily find him on this forum. Top bloke and quick postage from the US (I'm in the UK)


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Francois

Have you found the steering any different with the lefty? I get a bit of self-steering on my On-One with a lefty that wasn't present with the original forks. But the slightly narrower rim of the Marge Lite (65mm vs the original 70mm?) might also contribute.

As others have said, those are great pictures that you take.

Tim


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## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

Wombat said:


> Have you found the steering any different with the lefty? I get a bit of self-steering on my On-One with a lefty that wasn't present with the original forks. But the slightly narrower rim of the Marge Lite (65mm vs the original 70mm?) might also contribute.


Make sure the tire is fully centered under the frame, easily adjusted via the clamps. Most likely cause actually. Well, that, or it's set up with a taller A to C than the stock fork.

Rim width shouldn't have any impact.


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## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

Hi Tim, 

no self steer issues here that I've noticed, I'll go handsfree for a bit and let you know . With the Lefty MAX I imagine I've changed the angles a bit, never bothered to measure. Running a Marge Lite myself, I find a slight understeer, but I am pretty sure that's just part and parcel of running mahoosive tyres, and I quite like it!  

I must admit, I did not stick with the original fork for too long, my main aim was to relieve the vibrations (knackered wrists), which this conversion has sorted out big time.

All in all I am very happy - still waiting for customs to release the rest of my Lefty rebuild mind. Once I have the PBR conversion in place I'll let you know if there's any change. As mentioned to you before, I did have to tweak the clamps beyond the marker a fair bit. Let me know if you want some photos to compare?


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

Curiosity question,
If the A toC is set correctly ... What's the Lefty do to the _Trail_ ?


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Bikeabuser

It's probably a combination of the changed A to C and the different trail. The Fatty forks have, I think, 55mm of offset and I guess the Lefty has a lot less. I did measure the A to C difference, and while I can't remember the figures, I think the lefty was a bit longer. 

Craig

Thanks for the advice. I did spend a fair bit of time lining up the rim when looking through the steerer tube. I'll have another look at it. I thought it may be rim width as someone on MTBR mentioned they'd see quite a difference in self steering when going to a narrower rim.

Even with this I think the bike with the lefty is terrific and it saves the bashing my forearms were getting.

Tim


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Wombat said:


> Bikeabuser
> 
> It's probably a combination of the changed A to C and the different trail. The Fatty forks have, I think, 55mm of trail and I guess the Lefty has a lot less. I did measure the A to C difference, and while I can't remember the figures, I think the lefty was a bit longer.
> ...
> ...


Do not confuse trail with fork offset.

The stock fork has 55mm of offset, more than most forks.

Use a fork with less offset and/or a slacker HTA (longer A-C slackens it) and the trail is increased.


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

shiggy said:


> Do not confuse trail with fork offset.


Thanks. I do confuse the 2 and should look at a diagram before posting.

Tim


----------



## p_cycle (Jul 22, 2006)

will there ever be an XL frame?


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

*Bumper for Mendon's clamp*









The only problem I've found with Mendon's Lefty clamp (Tall version) is that it has a rather sharp edge. Should you have a crash I can see this leaving a nasty dent in your frame, well it would on the On One Fatty.

The Cannondale Bumper provides no protection in this setup. Not that I come off the bike that often, but you never know. I used some Sugru (https://sugru.com/) to make a bumper to prevent this. Seems like it will do the trick!

For what it is worth... I can't really see how the clamp could be designed any better, maybe a slightly less sharp edge, but even then you'll have the same issue.

Happy cycling!


----------



## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

fyford said:


> View attachment 809132
> 
> 
> The only problem I've found with Mendon's Lefty clamp (Tall version) is that it has a rather sharp edge.


Yeah, we messed with that for a while, no real solution in the design.

What I do, and recommend, (though your solution seems to do the trick) is to take an old road tire, cut off the bead and sidewall, so you just have tread.

Two wraps around the frame at the point of contact, and then a nice tight wrap of electrical tape covering the whole thing. Makes a nice, shiny black, (or colored if you prefer!) dense bumper for basically free.

Taken a few good beaters with mine over the last year or two, no issues at all.


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

Cool thanks, will look into that one as well!


----------



## Lars Thomsen (Jul 28, 2011)

MendonCycleSmith said:


> Yeah, we messed with that for a while, no real solution in the design.
> 
> What I do, and recommend, (though your solution seems to do the trick) is to take an old road tire, cut off the bead and sidewall, so you just have tread.
> 
> ...


I've done as advised, but instead of using electrical tape, I've made three holes and used a zip tie :thumbsup:
















The build is still in progress&#8230;:smallviolin:


----------



## Lars Thomsen (Jul 28, 2011)

*To center the 'MendonCycleSmith' Lefty...*



MendonCycleSmith said:


> Make sure the tire is fully centered under the frame, easily adjusted via the clamps. Most likely cause actually. Well, that, or it's set up with a taller A to C than the stock fork.
> 
> Rim width shouldn't have any impact.


To center the 'MendonCycleSmith' Lefty I've found that a Mini Maglite:







will do the job:


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Lars

That's a very neat solution.

Tim


----------



## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

Wombat said:


> That's a very neat solution.


Agreed, that's the slickness for sure!


----------



## Dr Feelygood ! (Jun 16, 2006)

That really does illuminate the sweet spot


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Can someone with a Fatty measure the actual BB height and post it up (can't seem to find that in any of the threads)??

I know the BB drop is 47mm, but I want an actual BB height number.


----------



## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

^^^ With which tires ?
I does matter


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

any 65-82mm rim mated with either Floater, Nate, Larry, or Knard


----------



## fer83 (Jan 7, 2007)

DSC_5302 por fertxitxito, en Flickr


DSC_5314 por fertxitxito, en Flickr


----------



## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

nitrousjunky said:


> any 65-82mm rim mated with either Floater, Nate, Larry, or Knard


If you want even better steering, put a Nate on the front.


----------



## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

nitrousjunky said:


> Can someone with a Fatty measure the actual BB height and post it up (can't seem to find that in any of the threads)??
> 
> I know the BB drop is 47mm, but I want an actual BB height number.


Floaters = 12" to center of BB.


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

bikeabuser said:


> Floaters = 12" to center of BB.


Hrmm, I got an reply from Titus/USA saying it was roughly 12.5 in stock form......


----------



## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

nitrousjunky said:


> Hrmm, I got an reply from Titus/USA saying it was roughly 12.5 in stock form......


Well, I measured mine with 15psi in them ... Not sure what to say.


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Well then unless someone else claims otherwise, We'll call it 12". However that's what my wife's 2013 Muk 3 measures with the stock RD's & Nates at about 9psi. Was expecting the Fatty to be higher.


----------



## Xaqu (Dec 25, 2012)

The new bundle looks really interesting, but I could find little info tegarding compatible bottom bracket + crankset combinations.
Any other option besides SRAM's proprietary Howitzer BB?
Does the BB shell accept a "standard" 100mm BB?
I'd like to build something futureproof with 2 or 3 chainrings.
Thx.
Xaqu


----------



## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

any manufacturer that makes cranks for 100mm bb's will work.
noone's making bb30 or pf30 in 100mm yet.


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Xaqu said:


> The new bundle looks really interesting, but I could find little info tegarding compatible bottom bracket + crankset combinations.
> Any other option besides SRAM's proprietary Howitzer BB?
> Does the BB shell accept a "standard" 100mm BB?
> I'd like to build something futureproof with 2 or 3 chainrings.
> ...


Raceface Turbine, RF Atlas, Mr Whirley, the Holzfellers of course. If you're looking to drop significant weight, the RF setup will do it and they seem to be offering some decent support for Fat Bikes. The standard gigahowitzerstingerwhatever bottom bracket is like 400g, the crankset something like 800g, and while not crazy heavy for the crankset, you can shave a good pound likely by going to one of the RF setups. Holzfellers and these bottom brackets are pretty solid though, still, it's a lot of weight...I'd like to build something in the future with just one ring, but lighter


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Anyone on here go from a Large 2013 Mukluk to the 20" Fatty? Curious how the reach and ETT compare between the 2.


----------



## Innota (Feb 22, 2012)

Can you use standard SLX bottom bracket and crank on the Fatty?


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Innota said:


> Can you use standard SLX bottom bracket and crank on the Fatty?


No.


----------



## Innota (Feb 22, 2012)

shiggy said:


> No.


So is special cranks and BB needed? I thought the fatty came with a standard MTB crank, but I must have been wrong.


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Innota said:


> So is special cranks and BB needed? I thought the fatty came with a standard MTB crank, but I must have been wrong.


Simple. Like most fat bikes, it has a 100mm wide BB shell rather than the common 68/73mm shell.

The complete bike ships with a standard ISIS crank and a 100mm (shell) ISIS BB.


----------



## zeb (May 21, 2006)

shiggy said:


> Simple. Like most fat bikes, it has a 100mm wide BB shell rather than the common 68/73mm shell.
> 
> The complete bike ships with a standard ISIS crank and a 100mm (shell) ISIS BB.


Howitzer is not ISIS


----------



## Innota (Feb 22, 2012)

shiggy said:


> Simple. Like most fat bikes, it has a 100mm wide BB shell rather than the common 68/73mm shell.
> 
> The complete bike ships with a standard ISIS crank and a 100mm (shell) ISIS BB.


So does that mean that I can use the standard SLX crank as long as I use the right 100mm BB?


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Innota said:


> So does that mean that I can use the standard SLX crank as long as I use the right 100mm BB?


Ummm...no.

The current SLX has the spindle permanently attached to the driveside crank arm. Works only with 68 or 73mm BB shells. You can not add 27mm to the spindle length. Clear?


----------



## Katz (Jan 29, 2012)

fer83 said:


> DSC_5314 por fertxitxito, en Flickr


What size frame is your Fatty? Thanks.


----------



## fer83 (Jan 7, 2007)

Katz said:


> What size frame is your Fatty? Thanks.


not mine, I'm the rider of the small and skinny wheled 456EVO. both bikes are size 18. my friend own an inbred 29er too, same size, he is a little bit tall for medium bikes but TT length of this bikes work for him


----------



## Katz (Jan 29, 2012)

^OK, thanks! Trying to decide whether I should get 18" or 16". With the exception of seat tube and chainstay length, the geometry of 18" frame is very similar to Santa Cruz Jackal long frame, which fits me well. But I'd like to be able to get the saddle low. 

By the looks of it, 18" might work just fine.


----------



## Innota (Feb 22, 2012)

Is there any problems with adding a larger front wheel if you get a new fork that has room for it? For example a wheel with 100mm rims. Or does this cause some bad effects like wonky steering or syphilis?


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Innota said:


> Is there any problems with adding a larger front wheel if you get a new fork that has room for it? For example a wheel with 100mm rims. Or does this cause some bad effects like wonky steering or syphilis?


Why do you think a 100mm rim would not fit in the stock fork?


----------



## Katz (Jan 29, 2012)

*EDIT:* Never mind. See post #1108.



Titus/On One USA said:


> The US stock of Fatty's has arrived and we have been shipping them out as quickly as we can get them assembled. If you ordered today it would ship on Wednesday (Monday is a holiday and we would get it assembled on Tuesday).
> Thanks


Currently on your web page, it says "Availability: In stock soon..."

How soon? Looking to get one in size 18". I'd rather get it from Portland than directly from UK.

Thanks.


----------



## Innota (Feb 22, 2012)

shiggy said:


> Why do you think a 100mm rim would not fit in the stock fork?


I presumed that since the bike came with 70mm rims it wouldn't be room for much more. But if 100mm rims and 4,5" tires fit, then that'd be great.


----------



## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

Katz said:


> Currently on your web page, it says "Availability: In stock soon..."
> 
> How soon? Looking to get one in size 18". I'd rather get it from Portland than directly from UK.
> 
> Thanks.


Katz, I just bought a Dirty Disco CX bike. Been waiting on them coming back in, they are still not in stock till the 17th July but ive paid for it so I have got my place in the queue.

I see the fatbike has a similar option, though I got mine from the UK.


----------



## Katz (Jan 29, 2012)

^Hey Ozzy, thanks for the info.

Although I'd rather get it from the U.S. distributor (easier to return/exchange in case of damage, defect, etc), I'll order it from UK if the wait is going to be longer than a couple of months as I see they got a bunch of 18" Fatties in stock on the UK site.

Haven't see your riding vid in a while. Post some more in OC


----------



## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

Cheers Katz, I usually post them here in the Fatbike film thread.

The planet-x/on-one US site has their fattys available to purchase but "in stock soon", my thinking was if enough people pre purchase before they become available then they wont become available at all 

I have no idea the numbers they are getting in but ive learned that well priced FATBIKE things don't hang around too long.


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Katz, send them an email. They are in stock now and will let you know if there are any available in the size you want.


----------



## Katz (Jan 29, 2012)

Ozzy, I'll browse through the Fatbike film thread later. Thanks.



nitrousjunky said:


> Katz, send them an email. They are in stock now and will let you know if there are any available in the size you want.


I just called them. You're right - turned out they have 11 of size 18" in stock. So order placed. I'll be a fatbike owner soon!


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Yep! If I can move my 29er frame before they run out, I'll be a fat bike owner too!


----------



## Katz (Jan 29, 2012)

^That's what credit cards are for 

Hope you'll get the frame sold quickly.


----------



## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

BowHopper said:


> I agree, and I'm kicking around ways to make that happen.


hey Bowhopper how's that coming along? no activity from you in a year almost!


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Katz said:


> ^That's what credit cards are for
> 
> Hope you'll get the frame sold quickly.


I wish it were that simple, if this frame doesn't sell I'm not going fat for a while. Doesn't look like its going to either. I'll be half fat once again.


----------



## Lars Thomsen (Jul 28, 2011)

*Fatty fork, Clown Shoe 100mm, Bud 4.8"*



Innota said:


> I presumed that since the bike came with 70mm rims it wouldn't be room for much more. But if 100mm rims and 4,5" tires fit, then that'd be great.


Fatty fork, Clown Shoe 100mm, Bud 4.8":







5mm space:


----------



## Innota (Feb 22, 2012)

EDIT: Thanks for the images, Lars Thomsen! Looks like a tight fit, but I'm sure it works.  Is it possible to cram in more tire in the rear as well?


----------



## Tomsson (Jan 5, 2012)

If someone is wondering the construction of the Fatty, here is a close up video of my Fatty which I received 3 days ago


----------



## Katz (Jan 29, 2012)

^Cool. Thanks for posting the vid! Mine was delivered on Friday - alas, I'm in the opposite end of the country (residence in CA, I'm in AL at the moment).

I'd take it the X9 shifter/derailleur combo is your own addition?


----------



## Tomsson (Jan 5, 2012)

Katz said:


> I'd take it the X9 shifter/derailleur combo is your own addition?


Yes, I've changed the shifter, derailleur and the grips. Otherwise it's stock.

I got also the custom No Fatty -wheelset with the bike so now I got also a rigid 29er 

Just now I'm drilling the wheels to get maybe 1lbs of..


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

*Drilled*



























Saved just a hair over a pound on the rear wheel by changing tubes and and operating on her.. been reading this whole rotational mass savings issue is a bit overrated, but hey at least the front and rear matches now  and I'll be able to accelerate like 2% faster now! That's all that count right?

No Jig, no pilot holes, just centre punched and drilled, stood on the rim on the lawn. Aluminium is so soft I never had the drill slip. Bit of a mission de-burring, but the Dremel did the job. Did nick a spoke so all I can say is take it slow! Took quite a while to get it all done. More like 3hrs. Either way thanks for putting the vid up John: Drilling fat bike rims in built wheels - YouTube

Next up will be going 2x10 on the front. Manage to get hold of a crank set, so just need a front mech and shifters. Anybody here got some advice as to what mech to use? What is the frame diameter? Saw a post some time ago suggesting you need a problem solver (which one?)

Cheers


----------



## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

I have a tip for avoiding hitting spokes, or slipping through at all when using a hole saw.

just wrap the hole saw with a few layers of electrical tape, about 3/8 of an inch from the cutting edge. Once the hole saw cuts through the rim, the tape will catch it before it can slip through.


----------



## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

Looking good, nice job with the drilling.


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

fyford; said:


> Next up will be going 2x10 on the front. Manage to get hold of a crank set, so just need a front mech and shifters. Anybody here got some advice as to what mech to use? What is the frame diameter? Saw a post some time ago suggesting you need a problem solver (which one?)
> Cheers


I used the problem solver direct mount for a fat bike and a cheap slx direct mount that jenson had on sale at the time. You need a bb spacer to replace the stock chain guide.

But in hindsight I can't see why a bb mounted derailleur wouldn't do the same thing for less.

Tim


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

Thanks Tim, 

I take it you used this one:
FS1322 Direct Mount Adapter 34.9/31.8/28.6mm High Direct Mount 100mm

Think I might just go the same route as yourself seeing I know it's been done


----------



## Tomsson (Jan 5, 2012)

Here is my drilling job 
































































Yellow is just temporary


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

Nice one! Looks like your little tool works a lot better than the dremel... could not be asked to go and buy one of those, in hind sight it would have saved me a lot of time.


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

Ok found a mad deal on a bb-mount, less than the price of a beer so will give that a go first


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Nice clean work Tomsson. Did you drill where the rim join was? The pic with the punch show you setting up to.


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

Stevob, I did, no way around it. Was a bit strange as it was near centre on the join and the cut-out fell out on 2 pieces. Did you have the same Tomsson?


----------



## Tomsson (Jan 5, 2012)

Didn't realize I was demonstrating the marking procedure just on top of the pin seam 

I didn't drill the seam.


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

Thought I'd risk it


----------



## miksen (Jul 9, 2013)

Anyone else having trouble with the standard On-One tires not seating correctly? I must have taken them off and put them back on a handful of times but they keep having at least one spot where they are not correctly seated, leading to pretty brutal tire wobble/bobbing. I tried using lots of soapy water and pumping way up to 25 PSI and that seemed to work, but at soon as I lowered to 10 PSI the issue came back.


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

miksen

I used straight dish washing liquid and that fixed it for me, but until I did this the wobble was very noticeable.

Tim


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

fyford said:


> I take it you used this one:
> FS1322 Direct Mount Adapter 34.9/31.8/28.6mm High Direct Mount 100mm


fyford

Yes, that's the one I used. It was simple and straight forward.

You may have used direct mount derailleurs before but I hadn't, and made the mistake of cutting the outer housing to terminate in the last frame mount when I should've by-passed this completely and terminated it at the derailleur itself.

Tim

Tim


----------



## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

Try at least 35 psi and straight dish soap as stated.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Tomsson said:


> Here is my drilling job


Hey Tomsson, is that a flapper wheel @ high rpm you're using to clean up the edges?


----------



## Tomsson (Jan 5, 2012)

Stevob said:


> Hey Tomsson, is that a flapper wheel @ high rpm you're using to clean up the edges?


Yes it is. Common 80 grit flap wheel 30mm in diameter. Not too high rpm since those air tools use so much air my small air compressor can't keep up properly if not easying on throttle a little pit


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Does anyone who owns a Fatty have a North Shore Rack?? I'm curious if the On One fork will work with this rack. I just tried a Steel Fatback fork and it will not, the On One is a VERY similar design.


----------



## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

Just installed a Salsa Beargrease fork...
Upgrade will continue with the rear wheel (hope+marge lite, under construction) new headset and some bits...

Maybe I will remove the paint...

Low pic quality, sorry.


----------



## jvm051 (Mar 10, 2009)

How is the handling with the Beargrease fork?



bricke said:


> Just installed a Salsa Beargrease fork...
> Upgrade will continue with the rear wheel (hope+marge lite, under construction) new headset and some bits...
> 
> Maybe I will remove the paint...
> ...


----------



## Brasi4x4 (Jul 5, 2013)

Hi people

This is my first post on this forum and I would like to introduce another Fatty ready to roll into Spain










bye


----------



## pharcyde (Aug 30, 2008)

Hey Brant

Which is better for Australians, order thru UK site or US??


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

pharcycle

Look at the total cost for both sites and get whichever is cheaper. So far it's always been the UK site, as US shipping is much higher. The current price from the UK with shipping is less (in US$) than the purchase price from the US. The latter site is much more expensive once you add shipping.

Edit: and looking at the UK site, it indicates that there's free international shipping so it will be even cheaper.

Tim


----------



## TeddyTS (Apr 27, 2013)

miksen said:


> Anyone else having trouble with the standard On-One tires not seating correctly? I must have taken them off and put them back on a handful of times but they keep having at least one spot where they are not correctly seated, leading to pretty brutal tire wobble/bobbing. I tried using lots of soapy water and pumping way up to 25 PSI and that seemed to work, but at soon as I lowered to 10 PSI the issue came back.


I sanded the sides of the tires lightly to get good seat. :thumbsup:


----------



## miksen (Jul 9, 2013)

I also finally had success. Cleaned the tire bead, rubbed the rim flange with undiluted dish soap, and inflated up to 30 PSI. Waited 10 mins, and then deflated down to 10 PSI, and tire was still on right .


----------



## Katz (Jan 29, 2012)

I had a chance to try my Fatty for the first time over the weekend.

I assembled it with all the parts it came with, super-wide bar, 80mm stem, etc. It felt really awkward to me (5'10" on 18" frame), so I took 730mm bar and 40mm stem off my DJ bike and put them on. The bike came alive! Not that it has anything to do with fatbike's intended use, I am pleasantly surprised how well the bike manuals.

http://www.pinkbike.com/v/323976/l/

Fatbike on Pinkbike


----------



## flobukki (Nov 6, 2012)

nice. there should be more fatty-stunt-videos  casual flipflop included.


----------



## Katz (Jan 29, 2012)

Thanks. I'll make a longer video when I get acclimated to the bike. I hurt my wrist a while ago and the bike's heavy, so I can't bunnyhop well yet.


----------



## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

jvm051 said:


> How is the handling with the Beargrease fork?


Mmmmm quite difficult to say with only two serious ride so far, but, by now "I don't like it", I feel something strange in the handling, I don't know how to explain it, in uphill the handling is't better, in downhill a little bit worst (more quick response to the steering), in a pair of cases the bike was "un-drivable", I don't know why, I need to investigate a little bit.

However, I overall prefer the original fork for a more downhill ride.


----------



## miksen (Jul 9, 2013)

bricke said:


> ..."I don't like it", I feel something strange in the handling, I don't know how to explain it, in uphill the handling is't better, in downhill a little bit worst (more quick response to the steering), in a pair of cases the bike was "un-drivable", I don't know why, I need to investigate a little bit


I don't think this is very surprising. If you look at the photos above the original Fatty fork is slanted forward quite a bit creating a head angle that is quite slack. The Beargrease fork is straight creating a much more steep angle. Steeper angles lead to more nimble handling, but also a lot less stability.


----------



## jvm051 (Mar 10, 2009)

This is what worries me about putting a suspension fork on this bike. Afraid it might throw off the handling too much. I had emailed Brant a few weeks back asking if any of the current carbon forks would work but he mentioned the handling change....he also mentioned they should will have a carbon fork in a few months...


bricke said:


> Mmmmm quite difficult to say with only two serious ride so far, but, by now "I don't like it", I feel something strange in the handling, I don't know how to explain it, in uphill the handling is't better, in downhill a little bit worst (more quick response to the steering), in a pair of cases the bike was "un-drivable", I don't know why, I need to investigate a little bit.
> 
> However, I overall prefer the original fork for a more downhill ride.


----------



## Tomsson (Jan 5, 2012)

Lets just hope that atleast the carbon fork they are working on will have that same slant than the steel fork. I love that 68deg head angle it gives and would not want anything steeper!


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

miksen said:


> I don't think this is very surprising. If you look at the photos above the original Fatty fork is slanted forward quite a bit creating a head angle that is quite slack. The Beargrease fork is straight creating a much more steep angle. Steeper angles lead to more nimble handling, but also a lot less stability.


Just being a little pedantic here, but if the two forks are the same length, the steering angle doesn't change much at all (if anything it will be slacker). The main difference (other than material property differences between the forks) is the Beargrease fork results in a much larger trail number, based on the offset. That in itself would result in less than normal steering qualities.


----------



## vaultbrad (Oct 17, 2007)

^ right-on. The relationship between head tube angle, rake, and trail is at play here.


----------



## jvm051 (Mar 10, 2009)

I am just hoping that On-One decides to make the carbon fork with a tapered steerer tube. The current steel one looks goofy having this giant headtube opening with the small steerer. And the steel fork feels almost as heavy as the frame. Im still building mine but almost finished. Just need cranks and brakes.


----------



## Stuey (Aug 6, 2009)

"Brant - will we see a 'carbon fatty fork' any time soon /next shipment 8/8 ?"

"-It's being made. Not that soon though."


----------



## kingdom (Jul 6, 2012)

Bit of a newbie question here..
I want to pack the wheel bearings with grease. I've never done this before.
How do I take off the axle cover/cone parts to get at the bearings? 
Any help is much appreciated.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Start reading here.


----------



## Lotte.2000 (Dec 18, 2010)

Fatty in Germany :thumbsup:


----------



## RJNG (Aug 23, 2013)

*Fatty*

Hi Guys,

Just got myself an On one Fatty, in the process of building it, unfortunately, it was delivered without a mech hanger, pending from X planet for a replacement.

Everything on hold now, can't do much. Hope to have more discussion with you guys soon.

Cheers


----------



## fluap (Aug 8, 2012)

RJNG said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Just got myself an On one Fatty, in the process of building it, unfortunately, it was delivered without a mech hanger, pending from X planet for a replacement.
> 
> ...


Use this "down time" of yours to check over everything. I suggest pack the freewheel with grease as mine was very dry, unless you like the really noisy freewheel sound. I also found some of the axle nuts weren't done up properly, so it's worth checking over everything. Fun bike though, you'll have a ball. Going tubeless is a great idea, it feels a lot better to ride.


----------



## RJNG (Aug 23, 2013)

fluap said:


> Use this "down time" of yours to check over everything. I suggest pack the freewheel with grease as mine was very dry, unless you like the really noisy freewheel sound. I also found some of the axle nuts weren't done up properly, so it's worth checking over everything. Fun bike though, you'll have a ball. Going tubeless is a great idea, it feels a lot better to ride.


Thanks man, will do that.


----------



## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

Lotte.2000 said:


> View attachment 824575


Awesome Predator saddle!


----------



## stesteste (Mar 22, 2013)

one thing get them rims drilled 

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## RJNG (Aug 23, 2013)

stesteste said:


> one thing get them rims drilled
> 
> Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2


I was just wondering, with so many holes, won't water or mud get into the tyre?


----------



## RJNG (Aug 23, 2013)

I've just gotten an email reply from x planet.

told me to double check on the frame as they usually attached it to the seat tube......come on!!!!! Sigh.....


----------



## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

jvm051 said:


> This is what worries me about putting a suspension fork on this bike. Afraid it might throw off the handling too much. I had emailed Brant a few weeks back asking if any of the current carbon forks would work but he mentioned the handling change....he also mentioned they should will have a carbon fork in a few months...


Yes, I know. When that fork will be available I think I will sell the Salsa Beargrease one (or maybe I can put it under a Scandal frame).

There was a problem on my headset (not the original one) that was causing the "un-drivable" situation mentioned above. Now everything works as expected, handling seems to be a little more direct than the original, but I can live with that.


----------



## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

RJNG said:


> I was just wondering, with so many holes, won't water or mud get into the tyre?


Nope. It stays plenty dry and clean.


----------



## RJNG (Aug 23, 2013)

Hi guys, any idea why some frame steering tube comes with logo and some don't?


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

RJNG said:


> Hi guys, any idea why some frame steering tube comes with logo and some don't?


Frames do not have steering tubes. Forks do.


----------



## RJNG (Aug 23, 2013)

shiggy said:


> Frames do not have steering tubes. Forks do.


ok, not sure what it call, head tube, steering tube the tube that hold the front fork......

you know, the one usually come with a brand logo??


----------



## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Mine didn't come with one. So I put on my own...


----------



## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

AFAIK the initial batch (December 2012) of Fattys did not have any sort of logo on the headtube while later production runs have the black On-One rectangular headbadge. I'm not sure that it really matters either way...


----------



## jvm051 (Mar 10, 2009)

Finished my build last week, after purchasing the rolling chassis a few months back. Drilling the wheels was a pain in the a$$ but it looks cool. I attempted to set it up Tubeless, with no luck,so its tubes and slime.


----------



## SeaBass_ (Apr 7, 2006)

Any riders over 6"1 on the 20" frame? How's the fit? Roomy enough or cramped? Thinking of swapping frames from my current 19" Mukluk to a 20" Fatty but the shorter TT on the Fatty has me concerned.


----------



## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

More room on the Muk for sure. The Fatty is just a so much cooler ride. You can build in as much room as you need with the right stem/layback post combo. I'm 6'2" and enjoy it ALOT!! It's the high BB that effects the position more than the shorter TT.


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## SeaBass_ (Apr 7, 2006)

builder said:


> More room on the Muk for sure. The Fatty is just a so much cooler ride. You can build in as much room as you need with the right stem/layback post combo. I'm 6'2" and enjoy it ALOT!! It's the high BB that effects the position more than the shorter TT.


I'm 6'2 as well with a 34 inseam and long arms. Whats your stem length and bar combo? I'm running a 110 stem on my 19" Muk with a Thomson setback post and it feels small. I'm up in the air between getting the new XL Muk frame with the revised geometry (Mine is a 2011) or the 20" On-One. How does it handle the tight stuff/switchbacks?
Thanks!


----------



## RJNG (Aug 23, 2013)

Fully Operational.


----------



## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

SeaBass_ said:


> I'm 6'2 as well with a 34 inseam and long arms. Whats your stem length and bar combo? I'm running a 110 stem on my 19" Muk with a Thomson setback post and it feels small. I'm up in the air between getting the new XL Muk frame with the revised geometry (Mine is a 2011) or the 20" On-One. How does it handle the tight stuff/switchbacks?
> Thanks!


I ride my 20" on one mainly on single track. It handles tight stuff just fine. Unless I have a need to be super fast on the flats or uphills I will generally ride the fatty.

I am 6 foot with 32 inseam. Running their 20" frame and 70mm stem with 780s.

My buddy is 6'2" with 34 inseam and will ride my bike just fine. He just puts the seat up higher.


----------



## deuxdiesel (Jan 14, 2007)

Has anyone tried to fit a 29+ (3.0 x 29 Knard) set up on the rear of the Fatty? They are slightly larger in circumference than a BFL, so I am curious as to the clearance.


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

*Yeah, I did the same...*









thought I might as well go all way seeing it's wearing a lefty. Think I created a bike with an identity crisis!


----------



## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

Just got my fatty a 2 weeks ago. I'm planning on drilling my rims but wanted to know the safest size to go with...think I saw someone say 1 3/8". Thought I would order one of them Hougen Holcutters...seems to be fast and precise!


----------



## Brasi4x4 (Jul 5, 2013)

Tunalic said:


> Just got my fatty a 2 weeks ago. I'm planning on drilling my rims but wanted to know the safest size to go with...think I saw someone say 1 3/8". Thought I would order one of them Hougen Holcutters...seems to be fast and precise!


I think that 30mm is the best


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Brasi4x4 said:


> I think that 30mm is the best


I drilled 1.25" (about 32mm I think) I was following the youtube posted on drilling these exact rims: Drilling fat bike rims in built wheels - YouTube


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## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

1.25 was what I used too!


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

Thanks! I will be ordering a 1.25" then.


----------



## ads-bully (Feb 26, 2013)

Wombat said:


> pharcycle
> 
> Look at the total cost for both sites and get whichever is cheaper. So far it's always been the UK site, as US shipping is much higher. The current price from the UK with shipping is less (in US$) than the purchase price from the US. The latter site is much more expensive once you add shipping.
> 
> ...


What did Aus Customs sting you for a full build?


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Yep, 1.25 worked great. Used a hole-saw, but noticed during the process there are very good/nice hole saws and real crappy ones out there.


----------



## pharcyde (Aug 30, 2008)

ads-bully said:


> What did Aus Customs sting you for a full build?


I havent purchased yet but to avoid the duty, I am gonna just buy the build kit (frame, forks and wheels) and do a CRC order for all the rest of the comps.


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

ads-bully said:


> What did Aus Customs sting you for a full build?


I expected to pay the 10% GST and possibly 5% duty, but it worked out to be nothing. I was pleasantly surprised.

Tim


----------



## ads-bully (Feb 26, 2013)

Yes, That is a pleasant surprise.. Can I also ask how long it took to ship from the UK to your door? Considering getting my son one for his birthday in 3 weeks


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

I pre-ordered mine before the first model was release, so I can't help with the shipping times. Other things I've ordered from On-One usually take about 2 weeks.

Tim


----------



## Tomsson (Jan 5, 2012)

Here's mine!










One more thing to come. White rims


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

*Nice one!*



Tomsson said:


> Here's mine!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Like the orange touch


----------



## r1Gel (Jan 14, 2004)

Tomsson said:


> Here's mine!
> 
> One more thing to come. White rims


Very nice 
White rims would be fantastic! :thumbsup:
(I have a thing for white bikes )


----------



## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Just curious if anyone has tried to reduce the weight of their Fatty? And what might be possible, within reason? I easily lost 2 pounds by drilling rims and swapping tubes out. I'm sure that's the most cost effective thing to do, but just curious what kind of weight savings could be attained in other areas. Has anyone swapped out; cranks? BB? cassette? bars?


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

bad andy said:


> Just curious if anyone has tried to reduce the weight of their Fatty? And what might be possible, within reason? I easily lost 2 pounds by drilling rims and swapping tubes out. I'm sure that's the most cost effective thing to do, but just curious what kind of weight savings could be attained in other areas. Has anyone swapped out; cranks? BB? cassette? bars?


Did that, threw out those heavy rim-strips and the duct tape that was wrapped around the rims and just put in some cellophane tape over my glow-in-the-dark holes and 2 passes of 1.75 gorilla tape.

In addition to what you did, I switched out the cassette for a 105 11-28. I mash gears and stand, so it's not bad to me (done several ~40 mile epics). The stock cassette is about 400g. I also switched out the bar for a nearly-as-wide carbon version. Stock bar is about 330 I think, mine shaved off 170g or so. I had a nice light 200g saddle, but I stole that and put it on my new 29er, so back to the stock on-one, but that's another pretty heavy part.

The next thing I'd do though is get a Carver carbon fork, that right there saves about 1.5lbs from the stock 2.8lb steel fork. You'd be hard-pressed to save 1.5lbs for $300 anywhere else, except the XX1 cranks on my 29er, that saved about the same total for $280.


----------



## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

bad andy said:


> Just curious if anyone has tried to reduce the weight of their Fatty? And what might be possible, within reason? I easily lost 2 pounds by drilling rims and swapping tubes out. I'm sure that's the most cost effective thing to do, but just curious what kind of weight savings could be attained in other areas. Has anyone swapped out; cranks? BB? cassette? bars?


My fatty weight 13.5kg

Standard stem/handlebar/seatpost
Smp composite saddle
Standard crank and gear
Custom wheelset (hope hubs/dt laser spokes/ surly marge lite rims), tubeless
Standard tyre
Superstar components headset
Hope seatclamp
Standard brakes
Salsa beargrease fork
Shimano saint flat pedals.

I can easily drop some other grams changing the stem/seatpost/bar the pedals and the tyres.

I think that i could eliminate at max 1.5 kg more.

Ps.: i've drilled the original rims too and with those hack my "standard" wheelset weight 450gr more than my hope ones, on-one hubs are very light!


----------



## Tomsson (Jan 5, 2012)

r1Gel said:


> Very nice
> White rims would be fantastic! :thumbsup:
> (I have a thing for white bikes )


There you go!


----------



## Brasi4x4 (Jul 5, 2013)

Tomsson said:


> There you go!


WOW

Great job!!!!!


----------



## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

The white rims look NICE. I see some more opportunity for orange bits though...


----------



## negley (Aug 13, 2012)

Here's my fatty finally built up. 32.5 lbs.


----------



## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

I thought the white seatpost looked a bit special but with the rims its all good 

[x] approved


----------



## r1Gel (Jan 14, 2004)

Tomsson said:


> There you go!


Ooohhh! Nice! Thanks! :thumbsup:


----------



## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

I got mine down to 33.5 lbs...had to have a B17 Aged though....feels like it's connected to my arse.


----------



## fer83 (Jan 7, 2007)

negley said:


> Here's my fatty finally built up. 32.5 lbs.
> View attachment 839854


very nice looking fatty, what crankset & chainring do you use?


----------



## negley (Aug 13, 2012)

fer83 said:


> very nice looking fatty, what crankset & chainring do you use?


Thanks. They are X9 cranks and a wolftooth spiderless chainring.


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Finished last night. 








Won't get trail time until tomorrow, but feels...interesting around the block. Methinks there will have to be some adjustment time. 34# here, built up from the rolling chassis bundle, new X.9 crankset, my spare parts bin, and everything else taken off my TransAM hardtail.









Have some Q-Tubes on the way. Rim mayhem to commence once they arrive. Sounds as if that'll drop ~ 2# right there. Dropper post adds some weight, but you can have my dropper posts when you pry them from my cold, dead buttcheeks. Erm. That doesn't really sound good. Whatever.

The miniaturization effect on my camera does NOTHING!


----------



## p_cycle (Jul 22, 2006)

what's up with the headset.
did you go full internal on purpose on the lower cup?


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Ye


p_cycle said:


> what's up with the headset.
> did you go full internal on purpose on the lower cup?


Yep. Had both external and internal in the bin, thought to try this first. ~10mm height difference so under a half degree of angle change. Will likely swap though, as the slightly taller/slacker setup will make it easier getting the front end up but still allow me to run mu bars nice and low as I prefer.


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

did you just powder coat or something or did you get new rims?


----------



## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

*Dangit! Don't fit*

Sometimes... a good idea is only that. And it doesn't work in practice.

Thought I'd go a little easier on my legs this year and put a 30t ring on my fatty. Not wanting to pay the bend-over prices for Wolftooth or Andersen, the RaceFace narrow-wide ring seemed like a good idea - with the tooth profile as an added chain retention bonus.

Well, that rat bastard won't clear the chainstays. The RF rings has standoffs, and the back-end part of the chainring bolts bold right into the unit, all one piece. The chainring teeth hit the chain stay on rotation so it's pretty obvious this isn't going to work. At least not with the stock cranks.

uh-oh.... dont' tell me I'm scouring eBay for cranks now... or maybe the universe is simply telling me to HTFU and rock the 32t again this year.


----------



## Tomsson (Jan 5, 2012)

bad andy said:


> Sometimes... a good idea is only that. And it doesn't work in practice.
> 
> Thought I'd go a little easier on my legs this year and put a 30t ring on my fatty. Not wanting to pay the bend-over prices for Wolftooth or Andersen, the RaceFace narrow-wide ring seemed like a good idea - with the tooth profile as an added chain retention bonus.
> 
> ...


Thats weird, I have also a RF NW 30t on mine and it clears the chainstay by around 1,5mm.


----------



## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Really? Can you possibly shoot a pic of that? I'd really like to see the set-up. Maybe (likely) something is off with mine.


----------



## Tomsson (Jan 5, 2012)

bad andy said:


> Really? Can you possibly shoot a pic of that? I'd really like to see the set-up. Maybe (likely) something is off with mine.


I have only one pic now, but I can take another one tomorrow from other direction if you like.


----------



## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Tomsson said:


> I have only one pic now, but I can take another one tomorrow from other direction if you like.
> 
> View attachment 843634


If you would be able to take a pic and kindly show the other side/clearance I'd really appreciate it. I don't know the details about these cranks/bob but thinking possibly there might be an adjustment similar to my stumpy's cranks... A preload adjustment wherein essentially the spindle could be adjusted a few mm left/right, perhaps mine is just too far in for the ring to clear. I measured with the crank arm parallel to the chain stays... The distance between arm and chain stay. There was a discrepancy of a few mm. The drive side was much closer to the stay... So possible I can adjust it out a little and create clearance for the ring? I need to find the technical install guides to confirm this.


----------



## Tomsson (Jan 5, 2012)

Here's more pics.


----------



## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Thanks for the pics. I have about as much clearance as you do, but with the stock 32t. I'm no BB/crank expert but in looking at some install guides I dredged up, it appears spacers are common to get the proper left/right fit. Do you know if any spacers are fitted to your BB or cranks? My BB cups are both flush to the BB shell.


----------



## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

I dont wanna veer this off topic, but I want to run a double crank on a Fatty. 

What crank do I need?

Does anyone still make ISIS cranksets? (Old 100mm ISIS DH BBs are still available)


----------



## agrumpyoldtroll (Oct 23, 2013)

So, probably ordering my fatty rolling chassis soon. Question, I have a 36/22t crankset that I am going to install on it. Unfortunately I read somewhere that the max chainring size for a single ring is 32t. Anyone know if a crankset with a 22t granny ring would make a 36t chainring fit?


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Hope you realize the kind of leg power it takes to turn a 36 on a fatbike...lol. I'm commuting on the fatty with an 11-28 rear cassette and the 32 up front, I don't even go into the 11 all that much because riding on flat ground is hard enough (like riding uphill on normal bike).


----------



## agrumpyoldtroll (Oct 23, 2013)

Jayem said:


> Hope you realize the kind of leg power it takes to turn a 36 on a fatbike...lol. I'm commuting on the fatty with an 11-28 rear cassette and the 32 up front, I don't even go into the 11 all that much because riding on flat ground is hard enough (like riding uphill on normal bike).


Yeah, I know 36 isn't ideal. The reason I ask is that I have a crankset in the garage that is 36/22. I plan on eventually ordering a different ring, but until then, it's what I have available.


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

FastBanana said:


> I dont wanna veer this off topic, but I want to run a double crank on a Fatty.
> What crank do I need?
> Does anyone still make ISIS cranksets? (Old 100mm ISIS DH BBs are still available)


I put a cheap (~$35) Truvativ 2 ring ISIS 22/32 crankset on my Fatty. It works well. I also used the Problem Solver direct mount adapter and a cheap Shimano front derailleur, but using an e-type derailleur would be cheaper.

Tim


----------



## stesteste (Mar 22, 2013)

Jayem said:


> Hope you realize the kind of leg power it takes to turn a 36 on a fatbike...lol. I'm commuting on the fatty with an 11-28 rear cassette and the 32 up front, I don't even go into the 11 all that much because riding on flat ground is hard enough (like riding uphill on normal bike).


I only used top 5 gears on my fatty then I bought a Wolf tooth 30t chain ring now I use all 10 gears its prefect now, highly recommended if keeping it single chain ring ,Hill climbing is alot easier

Press thx if i help you


----------



## bigdbronco (Mar 24, 2008)

agrumpyoldtroll said:


> Yeah, I know 36 isn't ideal. The reason I ask is that I have a crankset in the garage that is 36/22. I plan on eventually ordering a different ring, but until then, it's what I have available.


I have a SRAM X5 22/36 and it fits just fine no issues

But is your spare crank made for a 100mm BB?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

bigdbronco said:


> I have a SRAM X5 22/36 and it fits just fine no issues
> 
> But is your spare crank made for a 100mm BB?
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


I asked him that in the thread he started a few days ago on the same subject. No answer.


----------



## agrumpyoldtroll (Oct 23, 2013)

bigdbronco said:


> I have a SRAM X5 22/36 and it fits just fine no issues
> 
> But is your spare crank made for a 100mm BB?
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


I have the same, Sram x5 22/36 GXP 100 crank.


----------



## emp? (Sep 8, 2009)

got mine build up now








large frame
thomson stem and post
raceface turbine cranks with 30t narrow wide chainring
XO gripshift and Type 2 derailleur 
XT brakes

going to drill the rims later this week and set it up tubless 
keen to get some buds and the carbon fork when it comes out


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

bricke said:


> My fatty weight 13.5kg
> 
> Standard stem/handlebar/seatpost
> Smp composite saddle
> ...


That's pretty impressive... mine's 'down' to 16.5 now...


----------



## fyford (Apr 19, 2008)

FastBanana said:


> I dont wanna veer this off topic, but I want to run a double crank on a Fatty.
> 
> What crank do I need?
> 
> Does anyone still make ISIS cranksets? (Old 100mm ISIS DH BBs are still available)


I've just done that with a Truvativ Holzfeller - tried using a BB mount front mech, but that was a waste of time. Went with problem solver and xt 2x10 - works sweet!


----------



## kpw2011 (May 7, 2012)

what are the biggest tires and or rims that can be fitted to the on one?
cheers


----------



## dirtydoug (Nov 19, 2006)

Thought I saw a chap who could fit a big fat Larry but Lou would not fit in rear. Mine is in transit so don't know for sure.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

There's a few new tyres out soonish with smaller sizes than Lou, such as the Fatback Sterling 4.25" and the Specialized Ground Control 4.6". Both of these may fit.


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Seems like enough clearance for a bigger tire, 4.5-4.8 at least, like .75 at least on each side


----------



## dirtydoug (Nov 19, 2006)

here's a link from this bloke who made a report. Appears he has a later fatty prototype (black on-one lettering)
Surly Bud & Big Fat Larry Tyres : Great Rock : Mountain bike skills & trips ? Lee Quarry, Gisburn Forest, Hebden Bridge, Worldwide

Tire clearance is somewhat subjective: I often find myself shoving in tires with only 2-5 mm of clearance from chainstay, not worried about the seldom rub and not much mud where I ride.
Not that I have any desire to change from the floaters which seem like the ideal tire at the time. Would be interesting if on-one made a bff- big fat floater, fattest tire that would fit in rear of fatty on a 70mm rim.


----------



## ombrotipo (Mar 27, 2011)

Hi! I,m Ombrotipo from S-pain,,,, let me show you my On One fatty,,,,,, hope you like it!!! And sorry my english!!!









































Frame 18", 
Thomson stem, seatpost collar and seatpost, spec saddle, Use carbón 710mm handlebar, wolftooth 30t chainring, leonardi general lee 34.40 with sram cassette, kmc x10 chain, X5 rerar deralliur and shifter, drilled rims, onone floated tubes with spc innertubes, esigrips, xt 2013 brakes with 180/160 rotors, 
14,7kg.

Hope son with on one carbón fork and Thomson carbón bar.


----------



## Katz (Jan 29, 2012)

dirtydoug said:


> Thought I saw a chap who could fit a big fat Larry but Lou would not fit in rear. Mine is in transit so don't know for sure.


Velobike fitted a BFL on a 100mm rim with 5mm clearance. Post #106.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/one-fatty-dissection-828597-5.html#post9973501

Judging from the measurements I see on Surly Blog, mounting the tire on a 70mm rims should give you an extra few mm of clearance.

How Fat can we go? | Blog | Surly Bikes


----------



## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

Can anyone that owns a fatty give some recommendations w/ small or medium for the fatty. I'm 5'7 29 1/2 inch inseam longer arms. Thinking small but afraid ett too short .. Anyone with a fatty chime in on this? Thanks


----------



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

well I am 5ft 9 in with 30 inch inside leg and I went for a medium ( 18 incher ) 
its right for me is all I can chip in with . 

you could do with a ride on one to see which one is best for you imho


----------



## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

I am 5'8", and was going to get a small.

From what I read, the standover is the same on all sizes, and they tend to have longish top tubes.

I ended up deciding small because thats what (brant?) on a forum said was the right size for 5'8" -ish people would be. And I think smaller frames tend to be more "flickable" which, on a fat bike, would be a plus. On the other hand, wide bars and a short stem (~50mm)
on a medium would be sweet.


----------



## Katz (Jan 29, 2012)

To add to the confusion 

I ride a medium with a 35mm stem and a 740mm bar. 5'10" and wear 32" inseam jeans. I don't have any problem riding it, but I think I'd have been better off with a small frame myself. I like doing manuals and bunnyhops, so I prefer somewhat relaxed riding position.

The reason why I went with medium was the TT length looked similar to my Santa Cruz Jackal (large) on paper. It actually feels a fair bit longer than Jackal, even with the short stem.


----------



## miksen (Jul 9, 2013)

I'm 5'11 and the 18" (medium) is plenty big for me.

Planet-X has a size table here (click the 'Sizing Guide' tab):
On-One Fatty


----------



## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Tomsson said:


> Thats weird, I have also a RF NW 30t on mine and it clears the chainstay by around 1,5mm.


I think the issue is there are no spacers in the BB on the drive side. I have a first-batch fatty and these were shipped/built without the chain guide as they didn't have any at the time. Were that in place my drive-side crank would be out maybe 1.5/2mm, and that should be me the space I need.

I don't use the chain guide so looks like I'm installing some BB spacers!

By the way - not to derail current discussion, I'm 5'9" with 30" inseam and the 18" fits great. I run 50mm stem/standard bars and dropper post.


----------



## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

bad andy said:


> I think the issue is there are no spacers in the BB on the drive side. I have a first-batch fatty and these were shipped/built without the chain guide as they didn't have any at the time. Were that in place my drive-side crank would be out maybe 1.5/2mm, and that should be me the space I need.
> 
> I don't use the chain guide so looks like I'm installing some BB spacers!
> 
> By the way - not to derail current discussion, I'm 5'9" with 30" inseam and the 18" fits great. I run 50mm stem/standard bars and dropper post.


Just updating, I installed a 2.5mm spacer between BB cup and BB shell (drive-side) and that did the trick. RF 30t ring now fitted and working well. 8)


----------



## Ramjm_2000 (Jan 29, 2005)

fyford said:


> I've just done that with a Truvativ Holzfeller - tried using a BB mount front mech, but that was a waste of time. Went with problem solver and xt 2x10 - works sweet!


Did you use the 2x or 3x PS adaper?


----------



## emp? (Sep 8, 2009)

i use 2 drive side 1 non drive on my turbine cranks with 30t raceface ring and works fine


----------



## Penetrator (May 20, 2012)

On One does not sell Fatty bundle?


----------



## agrumpyoldtroll (Oct 23, 2013)

Penetrator said:


> On One does not sell Fatty bundle?


Someone asked this on their facebook page. Apparently, On One is having trouble keeping up with the tire supply/demand. No tires means no Fatty bundles.


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

agrumpyoldtroll said:


> Someone asked this on their facebook page. Apparently, On One is having trouble keeping up with the tire supply/demand. No tires means no Fatty bundles.


Temporary blip. 
And I think a "tyreless" bundle is going up today.


----------



## Penetrator (May 20, 2012)

Fatty no longer represents the interest
I wanted to buy Fatty bundle, is now looking for an alternative


----------



## wankel (Mar 7, 2004)

Brant, is this why my order which was placed on November 11th still hasn't shipped? Even though my order status says ready for shipping, and there were "lots in stock " when I ordered?


----------



## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Ya. No more fatty bundle, not such a good deal anymore

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk


----------



## O-h (Feb 4, 2012)

Oh man! I put my rolling chassis order in on November 20 and the status is ready to ship. Where/who do I need to talk to get some info?


----------



## wankel (Mar 7, 2004)

Good luck! I emailed them twice...first time was over a week ago and I still haven't received a response. I tried phoning today but couldn't get through to anybody.


----------



## Ramjm_2000 (Jan 29, 2005)

My issue is the wheelset. Luckily I got my tries but my wheels were a no show. CS usually takes about 1-2 days to get back via email but they did and said they had them there...they wanted to know if I still wanted them?? Really????


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## agrumpyoldtroll (Oct 23, 2013)

My wheels arrived today. First day our post office was on holiday schedule and open on a Saturday and my wheels just happened to show up.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk


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## bvfromru (Sep 27, 2012)

Hi, guys! Does anyone know any nice triangle framebag that optimally fits Fatty frame?


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## O-h (Feb 4, 2012)

I was thinking about making one myself. I can share any plans when/if I get that far.

Speaking of...my rolling bundle has cleared customs in Vancouver. So now it needs to backtrack few thousand km's. Might get here this week, but unfortunately I'll be forced off the bike for at least a week on Friday.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

I'm using the medium pugsly one, it expands quite a bit, so you still get some good volume.


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## flobukki (Nov 6, 2012)

last weekend i tried my friends salsa-framebag on my M-fatty. fits just fine. dont ask me what size his beargrease is.


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## dirtydoug (Nov 19, 2006)

I think any revelate universal bag would fit. My medium tangle bag fits great on my medium fatty -so does a custom full frame bag that I had made for a Canfield yelli.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

If you ordered the rolling chassis bundle or floater tires separately they probably came attached to this piece of plastic.










But did you know instead of tossing this piece of packaging out it can be used as a front fender and the cut outs fit damn perfectly. Check it out !!










With a few extra cut outs to weave some Velcro ties to attach to fork you got yourself some cool fenders.

Ps: On One a suggestion is you can possibly get your tire manufacturer to improve graphics on the plastic to make it look cooler. And you can pay me later for the idea.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

dirtydoug said:


> I think any revelate universal bag would fit. My medium tangle bag fits great on my medium fatty -so does a custom full frame bag that I had made for a Canfield yelli.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That looks hot. I had the same idea with the one I haven't bought yet. Thanks for giving me a preview of what it might look like.


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## agrumpyoldtroll (Oct 23, 2013)

Does anyone else find their On One freewheel/hub to be louder than normal?


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

agrumpyoldtroll said:


> Does anyone else find their On One freewheel/hub to be louder than normal?


If it's too loud, it's easy enough to put some more grease in it.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

funnyjr said:


> If you ordered the rolling chassis bundle or floater tires separately they probably came attached to this piece of plastic.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Cool repurposing. Probably only useful for protecting the bottom of the headset though.


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## O-h (Feb 4, 2012)

You can also mount the tyre card the other way, wide end forward, and it should protect your headset bit better.

My frameset came in on Wednesday, but wheels have been sitting in some mail sorting facility in town since Wednesday. As long as the wheels arrive today, I would say that On-One shipping works well to Canada and their customer service won them my return business.


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## suspectsean (Apr 9, 2012)

O-h said:


> You can also mount the tyre card the other way, wide end forward, and it should protect your headset bit better.


I was thinking that when I saw the photo, anyone use it for the back tire ?


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

trailbrah said:


> I was thinking that when I saw the photo, anyone use it for the back tire ?


To keep the spray off your calves?

Way too short to do much.


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## TRAIL CRANKER (Apr 9, 2010)

*Bought a Frame & 4ork!!*

Venturing into the Fat bike mode and bought a Frame & 4ork,,Dec.2 , question is will i receive it in time for the Holidays??I'm in Canada,, I emailed them about 3 days ago ,no response , I know there busy ,, also wondering if there will be any Deals on 170mm hubs some time soon ???


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

shiggy said:


> To keep the spray off your calves?
> 
> Way too short to do much.


It might reduce mud/grit spray to chainring(s) and front derailer.

People seem to put various shorty front fenders on trailbikes. Apparently, they reduce the forward spray that hits your face from the front.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

perttime said:


> It might reduce mud/grit spray to chainring(s) and front derailer.
> 
> People seem to put various shorty front fenders on trailbikes. Apparently, they reduce the forward spray that hits your face from the front.


I am well experienced with fenders, of all sorts. It would have to be mounted low on the back of the seat tube to protect the FD/crank.


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## wankel (Mar 7, 2004)

TRAIL CRANKER said:


> Venturing into the Fat bike mode and bought a Frame & 4ork,,Dec.2 , question is will i receive it in time for the Holidays??I'm in Canada,, I emailed them about 3 days ago ,no response , I know there busy ,, also wondering if there will be any Deals on 170mm hubs some time soon ???


I ordered mine on November 11 and it's still not here (also in Canada) . It took them over 2 weeks to ship it and a long time before they answered my emails. It is now in customs and I expect it will be stuck there for at least few days.

Based on my experience, it is unlikely you will receive it in time for Christmas, but you never know.

Edit:
just noticed you ordered only the frame and fork whereas I ordered the chassis bundle, so maybe you will have better luck. Did you order from US or UK?


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## Ramjm_2000 (Jan 29, 2005)

My bundle was ordered around the 8th of Nov...still waiting on the wheelset (they emailed that they somehow were return and resent). On a side note has anyone had any luck with the TNT tracking number they post? I've always gotten an invalid number message when trying to track.


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## O-h (Feb 4, 2012)

I guess I got lucky. I ordered mine on November 20 from UK and received the frameset on Wednesday last week. The wheelset is still sitting at a depot, or has been since Wednesday and Canada Post is completely useless on this even after charging me customs for the entire package. The TNT tracking doesn't seem to work too reliably, but once the package arrives in Canada, you can track on Canada Post. 

Considering the reasonable shipping cost, I was expecting slow service, but even the lag in shipping from on-one wasn't too bad. No offence to anybody, but reading your experiences is kinda what I expected.

OT: just sent a shoe box full of christmas gifts and a book in an envelope to Europe a week ago and the shipping options where 2-3 month transit time at $170 or 6-7 business days at $240. Needless to say I'm happy with Europe to Canada shipping...and learnt a lesson to buy gifts online from Europe and have them shipped within Europe.

By the way, what chainline works on Fatty?


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## TRAIL CRANKER (Apr 9, 2010)

Okay just got email it was shipped fri. afternoon,,:thumbsup:Maybe i will have it before the 25th,, I assume in Canada i pay 5% for frame + 13% tax??


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## agrumpyoldtroll (Oct 23, 2013)

Well for those waiting for their frameset, some good news. i ordered mine the 3rd of November, frame arrived 2 weeks later, wheelset arrived 5 days after the frame. I live in Italy at a military address, so order was from the UK store, shipped to United States, then through customs, then into the notoriously SLOW military mail system. Overall, not too bad. I got a little worried about my wheels when they did not arrive with the frame. I emailed On-One UK, never got an email back. I ended up sending them a message on their facebook page, and had a daily ongoing conversation with one of their guys everyday until my wheels arrived, EXCELLENT customer service using their facebook page.


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## O-h (Feb 4, 2012)

For what it's worth, I got a quick e-mail response from On-One UK. The customer service probably won them my return business.


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## dirtydoug (Nov 19, 2006)

Stevob said:


> That looks hot. I had the same idea with the one I haven't bought yet. Thanks for giving me a preview of what it might look like.


Thanks I actually wanted to keep the frame bead blasted raw but powdercoater screwed up matched it with matte black fork request. Living with the mistake not so bad. Still different. I don't like white bikes and I won't ride a bike with a cupcake on it.


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## emp? (Sep 8, 2009)

anyone else had drama with the rear hub?
mine died yesterday on a ride, im yet to pull it apart but its now a fat fixie


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

dirtydoug said:


> Thanks I actually wanted to keep the frame bead blasted raw but powdercoater screwed up matched it with matte black fork request. Living with the mistake not so bad. Still different. I don't like white bikes and I won't ride a bike with a cupcake on it.


Love that paint job. Did you do anything special with the powdercoat? Like lowtemp paint? I was worried about baking the frame having issues with the aluminum and heat. 
Thanks!


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

ljracer said:


> Love that paint job. Did you do anything special with the powdercoat? Like lowtemp paint? I was worried about baking the frame having issues with the aluminum and heat.
> Thanks!


Powdercoat is not paint, and all powdercoat needs to be heated to melt/cure. The common temp required for powdercoating is far below that which would affect aluminum.


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## dirtydoug (Nov 19, 2006)

What me worry about a 5.29 lb medium frame? Yes shiggy beat me to it- alot of unnecessary concern about aluminum. Powdercoat temp is 350 F. To this day I've had no issues with my fat turner sultan frame that was cut and re-welded. Here's an interesting article from Jeff Steber about process.
To the Point: Heat Treating Aluminum Frames - Pinkbike


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

Bike looks great. Anyone know what the 20" bike weight is stock? Are the stickers clearcoated??

Def looks like a tax time purchase..


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## AMjunky (Apr 29, 2013)

Damn these things look awesome, I am definitely considering one. I am looking for a good deal on a fattie and this seems to be the one for me. A few questions for you guys...

I am 5'7, between a small and medium and leaning towards the small. I ride a medium 17" Bronson with a 584mm effective top tube and a 70mm stem. Anyone else my size, what size did you go with?

Also if you ordered from the UK store how much was customs/vat and whatever else they charge for? Who charges me my UPS guy or do I get a bill in the mail? I have never ordered anything from overseas so please pardon my ignorance.


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## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

Order from the US store if you are in the usa. It's cheaper. The Fatty has a fairly high bottom bracket. This may move you toward the medium. My girlfriend, at 5'2" rides the large, and won't give it back......


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## AMjunky (Apr 29, 2013)

builder said:


> Order from the US store if you are in the usa. It's cheaper. The Fatty has a fairly high bottom bracket. This may move you toward the medium. My girlfriend, at 5'2" rides the large, and won't give it back......


Thanks, yeah that's probably what I am going to end up doing. I would rather do business with a US retailer. 5'2 on a large wow that sounds crazy. My stand over height is rarely an issue it's always the top tube length. With the M being 595 this puts me out of my comfort range which is about 575-585. So with the small being 570 it sounds good. Every 18" frame I have ever been on including the Pugsley felt too long, while the 16" Pug felt just right. The effective top tubes of the M Pug and fatty appear to be identical.

It looks like with fat bikes its better to go smaller for maneuverability.


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## suspectsean (Apr 9, 2012)

I could be wrong but I think the US is currently out of on one fattys...


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

builder said:


> Order from the US store if you are in the usa. It's cheaper. The Fatty has a fairly high bottom bracket. This may move you toward the medium. My girlfriend, at 5'2" rides the large, and won't give it back......


BB ht does not change the fit, and just because your GF likes the large it does not mean it fits well.

The prototype was a "medium" and at 6'1" fit me perfectly with my usual longish (by current fashion) stem.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

AMjunky said:


> Damn these things look awesome, I am definitely considering one. I am looking for a good deal on a fattie and this seems to be the one for me. A few questions for you guys...
> 
> I am 5'7, between a small and medium and leaning towards the small. I ride a medium 17" Bronson with a 584mm effective top tube and a 70mm stem. Anyone else my size, what size did you go with?
> 
> Also if you ordered from the UK store how much was customs/vat and whatever else they charge for? Who charges me my UPS guy or do I get a bill in the mail? I have never ordered anything from overseas so please pardon my ignorance.


Get the medium, I'm 5'11" on the medium and it feels a little cramped. I can make it up, but I'd rather start off with the large now that I've had a lot of time on it. You don't notice it as much when you are attacking downhill, but for any sustained riding it starts to become noticeable.


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## AMjunky (Apr 29, 2013)

C'mon size small and medium riders how tall r u?!

5'7 - 5'8 riders what size u ridin?


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

AMjunky said:


> C'mon size small and medium riders how tall r u?!
> 
> 5'7 - 5'8 riders what size u ridin?


Tall enough to be able to spell out "are" and "you."


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

shiggy said:


> Tall enough to be able to spell out "are" and "you."


Y U do dis?!??


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## AMjunky (Apr 29, 2013)

shiggy said:


> Tall enough to be able to spell out "are" and "you."


Mea Culpa, apologies to the grammar police.:smilewinkgrin:

Thanks to all who answered so far, just want to be sure before placing an order.

Let me put it another way&#8230; how does a small Fatty feel compared to a small Pugsley? If they feel the same or similar then I am going with a small.


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## Katz (Jan 29, 2012)

I have a medium Fatty with a 35mm stem.

I'm 5'10", and wear 32" inseam pants. I don't do long rides (20 miles tops), and I have a squished disc on my spine so I prefer more upright riding position.

The bike feels OK to me. I'd say it's perfect if I were more into XC type long rides and my back wasn't sore. But for my usage, I'd probably go with a small if I were to buy it again. 

Never ridden a Pug so I can't offer any comparison.


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## AMjunky (Apr 29, 2013)

Katz said:


> I have a medium Fatty with a 35mm stem.
> 
> I'm 5'10", and wear 32" inseam pants. I don't do long rides (20 miles tops), and I have a squished disc on my spine so I prefer more upright riding position.
> 
> ...


Awesome, thanks!


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## O-h (Feb 4, 2012)

Holy! I'm 182 cm and got a 20". Unfortunately I haven't been able to ride yet, but after setting it up, I wouldn't go any smaller. My MTB seat height is 760-770 mm from BB.

5' 7" tall rider will most likely be most at home on a small Fatty.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

O-h said:


> Holy! I'm 182 cm and got a 20". Unfortunately I haven't been able to ride yet, but after setting it up, I wouldn't go any smaller. My MTB seat height is 760-770 mm from BB.
> 
> 5' 7" tall rider will most likely be most at home on a small Fatty.


I have been using the same basic bike fit for 25 years. It is not about TT or ST length for me but my position relative to the BB and the front axle. The current fashion in mtb geometry/fit puts the front wheel WAY too far out in front for me and my butt too far back, like being on a chopper. Makes the bike sluggish and weight shifts hard to do.
Generally, I will ride a "size" smaller frame than others my height, IF the general geo is close (there are now few production frames, including the Fatty, that work for me).

You must also have very long legs. My (cycling) inseam is 885mm (almost 35") and my BB to saddle height is 740mm (with 182 cranks). And if your legs are that long your torso is short and you would need a extremely short stem. Even less weight on the front.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

shiggy said:


> I have been using the same basic bike fit for 25 years. It is not about TT or ST length for me but my position relative to the BB and the front axle. The current fashion in mtb geometry/fit puts the front wheel WAY too far out in front for me and my butt too far back, like being on a chopper. Makes the bike sluggish and weight shifts hard to do.
> Generally, I will ride a "size" smaller frame than others my height, IF the general geo is close (there are now few production frames, including the Fatty, that work for me).
> 
> You must also have very long legs. My (cycling) inseam is 885mm (almost 35") and my BB to saddle height is 740mm (with 182 cranks). And if your legs are that long your torso is short and you would need a extremely short stem. Even less weight on the front.


Based on what I'm running at my height, I'd have to imagine that you must have somewhere around a 450-500mm seatpost?


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Jayem said:


> Based on what I'm running at my height, I'd have to imagine that you must have somewhere around a 450-500mm seatpost?


Far from it. I usually run a 400mm post with 10-20mm to spare.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Even a 400 is pretty far up there. I'm 5'11" and had to move to a 400. I'm basically maxed out.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Jayem said:


> Even a 400 is pretty far up there. I'm 5'11" and had to move to a 400. I'm basically maxed out.


In the last 10 years it has not been uncommon for frames to be designed to use 400mm posts. As I have said before, my posts are not at max extension and I tend to ride a smaller frame than most riders with my inseam.
I still find it odd for a rider 3cm shorter to use a 2-3cm higher saddle, even though I use 1cm longer cranks.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

If my eyes are working right, you are running a 2-3" rise on your stem!!? I'd say it IS uncommon to see a frame designed around a 400mm seatpost, it's just not impossible to run it. I'd say it is common to have it designed around 350mm. In any case, what is more common is to design bikes with shorter stems, in both rise and length. Even though your hands are at an angle, it still looks like a good 2" above what it would be with a flat bar. Honestly, it does look like you could use a bigger frame there. I've got a similar amount of seatpost, but again, I'm maxed out. I don't care that I can yank it another 10-20mm, at these lengths it's not about the seatpost insertion, that just protects the seatpost, it's more about the frame leverage, and the seatpost insertion mark does not protect the frame. You and me both would be better off on one side bigger as far as I can tell. We can make it work, but it's not as optimal IMO.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Jayem said:


> If my eyes are working right, you are running a 2-3" rise on your stem!!? I'd say it IS uncommon to see a frame designed around a 400mm seatpost, it's just not impossible to run it. I'd say it is common to have it designed around 350mm. In any case, what is more common is to design bikes with shorter stems, in both rise and length. Even though your hands are at an angle, it still looks like a good 2" above what it would be with a flat bar. Honestly, it does look like you could use a bigger frame there. I've got a similar amount of seatpost, but again, I'm maxed out. I don't care that I can yank it another 10-20mm, at these lengths it's not about the seatpost insertion, that just protects the seatpost, it's more about the frame leverage, and the seatpost insertion mark does not protect the frame. You and me both would be better off on one side bigger as far as I can tell. We can make it work, but it's not as optimal IMO.


Your eyes are not working right. Not a 2-3" rise stem.

The drops are in the same position as I would place a straight bar, and that is still lower than the current fashion.

I have been riding long posts for many, many years without any damage to a frame. The "extra" insertion I have has always extended below either the bottom of the top tube or past the brace top, as on the pictured prototype.

No, you can never tell me what is better for me. A larger (production) frame does not fit and they ride like crap with my setups.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

At the very least, you must admit almost no one runs a setup like that.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Jayem said:


> At the very least, you must admit almost no one runs a setup like that.


Their loss.


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## Lewy (Aug 23, 2009)

Jayem said:


> At the very least, you must admit almost no one runs a setup like that.


You're right. I have seen hardly anyone running around with a cat attached to the seat


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

Jayem said:


> At the very least, you must admit almost no one runs a setup like that.





shiggy said:


> Their loss.


I have ridden 18" frames for years circa 595mm ETT (or there abouts) with a 400mm post (with plenty of "safe" extension left)

This set up feesl fine to me :thumbsup:

Not tried any longer cranks than 175mm yet though 

@6'2" with a 34" inseam most frames "my size" feel too long and unwieldy with no where near enough standover height .


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

How close are we to seeing the carbon fatty Shiggy ? 

Do you or Brant have any snippets of info you would care to divulge ? ETA ? Projected price point ? Frameset or full bike ?

A "little bird" tells me it is quite close ??? 

I have a sinking feeling though that we'll not get to see production framesets till autumn 2014 at the least.

Even if we do I think they'll be a lot more expensive than the current reasonably priced carbon On-One offerings . :idea:


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Fat Biker said:


> How close are we to seeing the carbon fatty Shiggy ?
> 
> Do you or Brant have any snippets of info you would care to divulge ? ETA ? Projected price point ? Frameset or full bike ?
> 
> ...


No clue. I was cut out of the loop even before I left the company more than a year ago.


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## O-h (Feb 4, 2012)

shiggy said:


> I have been using the same basic bike fit for 25 years. It is not about TT or ST length for me but my position relative to the BB and the front axle. The current fashion in mtb geometry/fit puts the front wheel WAY too far out in front for me and my butt too far back, like being on a chopper. Makes the bike sluggish and weight shifts hard to do.
> Generally, I will ride a "size" smaller frame than others my height, IF the general geo is close (there are now few production frames, including the Fatty, that work for me).
> 
> You must also have very long legs. My (cycling) inseam is 885mm (almost 35") and my BB to saddle height is 740mm (with 182 cranks). And if your legs are that long your torso is short and you would need a extremely short stem. Even less weight on the front.


35"ish inseam, no torso and long arms so running 100 mm stem. I think I have a 80 mm stem that I could try as well. I do agree with relation to BB stuff though.

I also ride 56 cm cross bike, size Large Cannondale F29, so more onnthe larger side. Used to ride smaller off road bikes before, but these feel much better with shorter stems.


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## suspectsean (Apr 9, 2012)

*what size ?*









Have the fatty frame on its way, anyone know if the headset is 44-49mm or 44-56mm ?


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

44-49


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## buggymancan (Jan 30, 2005)

any word on the availability of the baby fat bike, 24" kids bike?


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

No other details available but . . . . . . . . . 

Carbon forks available from UK store early February in black or white plain 1&1/8" steerer and only 50 pairs coming in first batch . No info on how many of each colour either . Just 50 pairs total . No preorder available just yet sadly . 
No weight , or other specs sorry .

Fat Biker


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Seems odd that it word have a straight steer? Isn't the head tube on the fatty tapered?


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Nope, think about it. On one can sell their fork to anyone who has a mountain bike, they sell the fork separately. It makes sense to do it like this, plus it's a rigid fork and there's no excessive length associated like a longer travel 29er, so it doesn't need the huge boost in stiffness that those need. You can also run any fork in the on-one, tapered or straight, just need the right lower headset parts.


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

If it's anything like the fatty steel fork it may not work well for other bikes given it's rake. Designing a fatty frame that has a tapered headtube and calling it "future proof" and then releasing a non tapered carbon fork for it is like going back in time.


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## dirtydoug (Nov 19, 2006)

funnyjr said:


> If it's anything like the fatty steel fork it may not work well for other bikes given it's rake. Designing a fatty frame that has a tapered headtube and calling it "future proof" and then releasing a non tapered carbon fork for it is like going back in time.


Wondering if you have actually tried this? I want to order some extra smoothie mixer 1 1/8" crown races so I can experiment the impact to handling using duc32, 45mm offset rigid fork, and trying the on-one fork on other fatbike. Is the 55mm offset marketing hype? Is the offset only noticeable in the parking lot or smooth tight sections of singletrack? Is the decreased trail a negative for fall line descents?
I'll add the fork is also future proofed in terms of being able to run an angleset and it is suspension corrected at 470mm A-C. I would prefer to ride this bike with a suspension fork (perhaps the greater driver for tapered HT and being future proof).
You may be right the steel fork may not work well, it weighs a **** ton and mine sure does shudder like a tuning fork when a rock is hit with speed- but would you really want a tapered rigid fork?


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

If the fork was tapered carbon and rigid yes .

Flex / compliance could be engineered into the design hence making for a suprisingly comfortable ride .

Hopefully with a drastic weight reduction compared to the boat anchor factory steel item


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

funnyjr said:


> If it's anything like the fatty steel fork it may not work well for other bikes given it's rake. Designing a fatty frame that has a tapered headtube and calling it "future proof" and then releasing a non tapered carbon fork for it is like going back in time.


This. I understand you physically CAN run a straight fork in a tapered head tube, but why would you want to if given the option?


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

trumpus said:


> This. I understand you physically CAN run a straight fork in a tapered head tube, but why would you want to if given the option?


i'd go with what's cheapest and what my bike is set up for now. There's no crown-steerer interface, or crown-stanchion interface, or stanchion bushing interface, and it's shorter than a suspension fork made for tapered, so it really doesn't matter and you don't miss out, unlike modern long travel forks which pretty much HAVE to be tapered -29ers and 27.5s long travel forks start to get serious fore-aft flex without drastic measures. Rigid fatbike forks aint em.

Yes, your bike has a tapered headtube. Is there a reason right now to run a tapered RIGID fork? I can't think of one.


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

Jayem said:


> Yes, your bike has a tapered headtube. Is there a reason right now to run a tapered RIGID fork? I can't think of one.


Looks


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

^ +1


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## Ramjm_2000 (Jan 29, 2005)

Got the wheelset in about a week and a half ago...needed to get some shift housing to complete the build. She's got a X9/X7/X5 build with Formula RX brakes, Cane Creek 40 HS, Carbon risers and seatpost, and charge scoop ti saddle took her out for her maiden/shake down voyage this afternoon. Given her weight (31ish?) she definitely rides lighter than expected. All I can say i I had a big smile on my face the entire time, not ready to give up my Mojo HD but this is definitely a nice change of pace...now I just need snow.


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## O-h (Feb 4, 2012)

Got my first ride in before Christmas. Drilled the rear rim as well after this photo, but otherwise it's still the same. The freewheel came with basically no grease, but grease doesn't work too well in cold and I think I'll replace the grease with motor oil. Will also replace the handlebar with wider flat bar off my 29er.


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## emp? (Sep 8, 2009)

well had my 2nd freehub die yesterday, was a replacement under warranty from the last one, was its 2nd ride and I was being gentle cause I wanted it to last for a little while at least


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

Did you grease the free hub at all both times? What exactly failed? Broken pawl?? Seems to be common issue. Some say they come dry w/o any lubricant. Do you ride in extreme cold?? Trying to figure out how to safe proof mine so doesn't happen.


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## emp? (Sep 8, 2009)

it was only 2 rides old, its the 2nd time its happened, first time the cone nuts came loose and the freehub slipped out and smash the pawls and the the teeth they work against. This time the cones were tight and the tips of the pawls sheared off, lots of grease in there so no dramas there... I live in Australia so it was about 38deg the day it broke


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Is the drive ring stuffed too?


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

Looks to me like the pawls aren't hardened enough . 
Looks like the drive ring is made from a substantially harder metal than the pawls and the ring has gouged them .
Wonder if there is a preventative "upgrade" we could do to help ?
Anyone know of another manufacturers pawls that would fit ?
They look familiar to me but I cant place them ????? :madman: 


Fat Biker


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

It looks very similar to a free hub I'm using on my SS. I discovered over time that it really doesn't like to run much grease as when the pawls run over the teeth on the ring, the grease acts to stick the pawls down, rather than releasing them quickly. Periodically I clean it out properly, grease the drive ring and just use oil on the pawls. Mine still runs very quiet

This hub also doesn't like any play in the bearings, particularly the free hub bearings. It puts everything out of whack. I replaced all my bearings with higher quality ones.

Failing all this as a resolution, maybe the chrome moly axle has a little more flex than my aluminium one.


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## emp? (Sep 8, 2009)

looks like on one have a revised wheelset coming soon with a new hub to fix this issue, due in the end of feb  bring it on with the carbon fork


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

emp? said:


> looks like on one have a revised wheelset coming soon with a new hub to fix this issue, due in the end of feb  bring it on with the carbon fork


Do you have a link to this info pls ?

Fat Biker


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## zozzo69 (Jan 22, 2014)

Hi folks
I am new on the forum even if i have been reading it already for a while. I own a On-One Fatty for 3 months, and after a dozen of rides (less than 500km), the freehub body has died. It's broken and completely rusted inside...
Have emailed On-One to get a solution. Waiting for a reply...


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Just solved the possibly wonky rear hub issue...

by ordering up a Hope Fatsno hub/Surly Marge Lite combo. And a Surly Bud 4.8" for the front. When all arrives, the Bud will replace the front tire (leaving me a spare Floater for the rear) and I'll go ahead and drill the front. Figure I'll then see about a tubeless setup at the same time. Orange rim strips, of course. 

The bigger tire ought to give me a bit more cush, and a hair more slackness (which i want) Will drop some overall bike weight as well. Once the Fatty carbon fork is available, will likely do one of those, or maybe the Bikeman carbon fork instead. Not sure yet.


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

scrublover said:


> Just solved the possibly wonky rear hub issue...
> 
> by ordering up a Hope Fatsno hub/Surly Marge Lite combo.


I think most people here are interested in real fixes for rear hub issue and not spending more money to buy new hub/wheel replacement. Since the On one fatty is somewhat of a budget fatbike, most owners including myself would feel jaded to have to spend more to get replacement rear wheel as they don't come cheap.


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## zozzo69 (Jan 22, 2014)

The guy who removed my freehub body looked carefully and told me :
- it's normal to destroy it after only some kilometers as it's the lowest quality he had ever seen
- it should be very easy to replace it by a shimano one, much stronger. He has found one which should fit perfectly on the on-one hub of the fatty  to my mind, that's the best option.


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

zozzo69 said:


> The guy who removed my freehub body looked carefully and told me :
> - it's normal to destroy it after only some kilometers as it's the lowest quality he had ever seen
> - it should be very easy to replace it by a shimano one, much stronger. He has found one which should fit perfectly on the on-one hub of the fatty  to my mind, that's the best option.


Please share which one fit perfectly on the on one hub fatty hub. Cheers


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## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

I have the Carver/Bikeman? carbon fork on a 907 and recommend it highly. Really improved the handling from the Mukluk 2 fork I tried first.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

zozzo69 said:


> The guy who removed my freehub body looked carefully and told me :
> - it's normal to destroy it after only some kilometers as it's the lowest quality he had ever seen
> - it should be very easy to replace it by a shimano one, much stronger. He has found one which should fit perfectly on the on-one hub of the fatty  to my mind, that's the best option.


Is the consensus with the freehub issue that it's only the body? Wearing down quick or something. I removed my cassette a few weeks ago (after 1 yr. of ownership) and noted some wear marks on the body, though not enough to cause any cassette slippage. (yet)

Or are there deeper issues with the freehub/pawls/springs themselves and I should expect the whole thing to implode one day?


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

funnyjr said:


> I think most people here are interested in real fixes for rear hub issue and not spending more money to buy new hub/wheel replacement. Since the On one fatty is somewhat of a budget fatbike, most owners including myself would feel jaded to have to spend more to get replacement rear wheel as they don't come cheap.


Yes, I know that - buying mine as a rolling chassis was part of my budget plan, with a nicer rear wheel to come in future...

As for the hub, best thing would probably be to pull it apart when getting it new, clean/lube, and re-assemble. Repeat as needed. From my experience with cheap hubs in the past, keeping things clean and tight will help considerably. IMO, as mentioned above, a thinner lube seems to work better than something too thick that can make the pawls stick. Particularly when things get really cold.

Hopefully On-One will be able/willing to help those of you/us having trouble. Either new hub/wheels setup, or a more robust freehub. Or if one of the Shimano units mentioned above fits, that would be an easy fix without anyone having issues needing to wait for On-One.

Or maybe a better external seal to keep things a bit cleaner inside?


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## zozzo69 (Jan 22, 2014)

I'm desappointed not having even a quick reply from OnOne after 2 days i emailed them...
I don't want to stay with a broken bike. Then i think i'll come back to my bike-repair man so that he tries with the shimano freehub body he's thinking about. As soon it's confirmed that it can work i'll update this post with the shimano reference. I keep the fingers crossed.


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## Optiflow (Mar 21, 2013)

I have a problem with the outer bearing of the freehub. It didn't spin freely. I tried to lubricate it and managed get it a little better shape. But there is some damage done.
I asked from On-One about the warranty, because I bought my bike about 10 months ago. Their answer was this: they cannot cover the replacement of bearings and freehubs under warranty as they are considered consumables. I can, however, buy a replacement part at a reduced price. 
I haven't yet decided what to do...
It sucks that it's a OK that these parts will break down a matter of months, even though they have serviced on a regular basis.


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## emp? (Sep 8, 2009)

the pawls are the problem from what ive seen, id be surprised if any shimano freehub fit as its not even close to any design they use... its more like a joytech bmx hub which the pawls for would probably fit into the on-one hub.
I have nothing but praise for the on-one team they have been so good to me throughout trying to sort it this issue out and I cant thank mike and the guys there enough for there help while sorting mine out. Im told there is a revision coming out soon on the hub (due mid feb im told)


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## zozzo69 (Jan 22, 2014)

@emp? : you are happy to have someone to thank ! I have emailed them one week ago (customers service + technical) and have no answer at all so far. That's not a very fair attitude I think. I was happy of my 3 orders at them (good prices, fast and quality delivery) but their warranty service is so bad !!! I am fearing they will not answer at all. That's just crazy ! Hopefully one of the shimano freehub bodies that the guy has ordered will fit. That's my best chance to see my Fatty rolling again I think...


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## Titus/On One USA (Jul 27, 2011)

zozzo69 said:


> @emp? : you are happy to have someone to thank ! I have emailed them one week ago (customers service + technical) and have no answer at all so far. That's not a very fair attitude I think. I was happy of my 3 orders at them (good prices, fast and quality delivery) but their warranty service is so bad !!! I am fearing they will not answer at all. That's just crazy ! Hopefully one of the shimano freehub bodies that the guy has ordered will fit. That's my best chance to see my Fatty rolling again I think...


Zozzo69 - Please email me directly - '[email protected]' so that I can look into your situation and see what we can do about getting you sorted. We try our hardest to ensure that all customers are responded to in a timely manner. Why you weren't I cannot answer at this stage but we have been down a couple of guys last week and are trying to get caught up.


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## zozzo69 (Jan 22, 2014)

Thank you so much Michael. I have just emailed you (hope you can do something despite i ordered it in UK, as i am located in France)


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Carver fork! 









Holy **** this thing is light! Total swap (yes, i weighed all the various bits, different for adapters, compression cap, 5mm rotor spacer, etc.) Knocked 648gms off the front end of the bike, for $299 shipped. Not bad!









No ride time yet, other than around the block while walking the dog. Feels good!

The replaceable threaded brake mount inserts are nice. Didn't realize those were a feature, -but am quite happy to see them. Ham or drunken-fisted wrenching mistakes are easily fixed!









Roomy! I have a Surly Bud on the way to replace the Floater front (which will just be a spare for the rear)


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## TRAIL CRANKER (Apr 9, 2010)

Nice , 5mm shorter a/c , and 45mm rake from 55m .Let us know how it changes the ride, i'm waiting to see the On ONE carbon fork hopefully coming at the end of Jan.???


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## maettu (Oct 10, 2005)

TRAIL CRANKER said:


> Nice , 5mm shorter a/c , and 45mm rake from 55m .Let us know how it changes the ride, i'm waiting to see the On ONE carbon fork hopefully coming at the end of Jan.???


The planned Surly Bud on the front will probably correct this 5mm shorter fork a/c...


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

maettu said:


> The planned Surly Bud on the front will probably correct this 5mm shorter fork a/c...


Ayup. Even if I ran the same Floater tire anyhow, it's a negligable difference in a-2-c when you consider how much the tires squish.

5mm will alter the HA roughly 0.2-0.3 degrees or so. The larger tire will totally negate that.


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## TRAIL CRANKER (Apr 9, 2010)

Shorter rake will change the stabilty also 55mm to 45mm .


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

TRAIL CRANKER said:


> Shorter rake will change the stabilty also 55mm to 45mm .


Meh. I'm not the least bit worried about that with how/where I like to ride.

The is only so much I'm going to allow myself to geek out about with the numbers.

It's gonna' ride like a bike.


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## dirtydoug (Nov 19, 2006)

Dig it. Ordered me a carver carbon yesterday. Not a fan of carbon but definitely the steel fork is definitely one of the few shortcomings on the fatty and had to go. I pulled the plug on waiting for the on-one carbon when I saw their latest Facebook response that it should be here end of February. 
I just realized I forgot to order the plug for carbon steerer so won't get mine installed till next week. You'll like the bud, way better in loose snow than the floater- noticeable improvement. Keep the floater for dirt though.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

dirtydoug said:


> Dig it. Ordered me a carver carbon yesterday. Not a fan of carbon but definitely the steel fork is definitely one of the few shortcomings on the fatty and had to go. I pulled the plug on waiting for the on-one carbon when I saw their latest Facebook response that it should be here end of February.
> I just realized I forgot to order the plug for carbon steerer so won't get mine installed till next week. You'll like the bud, way better in loose snow than the floater- noticeable improvement. Keep the floater for dirt though.


I'm almost thinking should have ordered up a Lou instead - the tread pattern actually looks as if it'd work better on the front for what I want than the Bud, particularly since the bike will likely see more dirt time than snow time.


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## dirtydoug (Nov 19, 2006)

Yeah I was going to mention all the cool kids are running Lous up front now. I prefer running the bud in the traction direction on my front end- feels bitey


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

Back to the rear hub issue worn, broken pawls. Guitar Ted explains it correct:

"Flex in the axle causes misalignment of the pawls to the ring gear and it only takes a couple of times for a pawl to hang up before the pawl breaks or the ring gear strips out. Better hubs with tighter tolerances don't have as many issues with this problem, and I suspect the longer axles exacerbate this issue some as well."

"This information was passed along to me by a hub designer. He said that in a perfect world, your pawls would be centered in relationship to the ring gear. However, with weight and torque applied, this isn't the case. The worse tolerances a hub has, the more this is an issue,(and I suppose heavier, stronger riders apply hear as well)."

Unlikely that a Shimano hub body will fit the On One Hub but from my own research it appears that these hub components look identical to the ones found on the On One Fatty rear hub and are even possibly out of the same factory. They look like they will work as replacements.

Sun Ringle Pawl & Spring Kit - Disc Jockey 2013 | Chain Reaction Cycles

Sun Ringle Freehub Body - Disc Jockey 2013 | Chain Reaction Cycles

http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/wh...g-removal-replacement-disc-jockey-ii-rear.pdf


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## zozzo69 (Jan 22, 2014)

Hi, yes this one looks like similar to the Fatty one. Hopefully for such a price that's a good quality one. I should receive a new hub body from On One next week. I hope that with a good greasing and correct mounting, it will not be destroyed in 3 months, otherwise I'll try this Disc Jockey. Thank you for sharing your find.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

funnyjr said:


> Back to the rear hub issue worn, broken pawls. Guitar Ted explains it correct:
> 
> "*Flex in the axle* causes misalignment of the pawls to the ring gear and it only takes a couple of times for a pawl to hang up before the pawl breaks or the ring gear strips out. Better hubs with tighter tolerances don't have as many issues with this problem, and I suspect the longer axles exacerbate this issue some as well."
> 
> ...


I suggested that three weeks ago. If this is the sole cause of the issue, then no other freehub body will solve the problem.


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## zozzo69 (Jan 22, 2014)

Then if i get it, the problem would be the axle, not the freehub body ?
Should it be replaced by a more rigid one ?


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Been riding this bike to and from work daily, as well as the weekend trail-rides and a few epics. Been solid. 9 months now.


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## zozzo69 (Jan 22, 2014)

Jayem said:


> Been riding this bike to and from work daily, as well as the weekend trail-rides and a few epics. Been solid. 9 months now.


This is what is amazing in this story. It seems that most of the Fatty users don't have any issue, but few of us have this problem with the freehub body. Could it be only a problem of bad mounting of the freehub body on the hub (lack of grease or something else) ? Mine has pawls rusted after less that 3 months which makes me think that maybe it was not correctly tightened or greased.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Hope/Marge Lite rear wheel, setup tubeless with the stock Fatty rim strip, a Clown Shoe strip, and about 60ml of Stan's goop. Mounted up fairly easily. A bit of shaking and bouncing it around at 20psi seemed to stop a couple minor leaks after a few minutes. Still holding pressure several hours later. Going to let 'er sit overnight.










Bud mounted on the stock (but now drilled) front. Tubed. Very loosey goosey fit. As in, it appears I'd have to build up the front A LOT to get it to close up and hold. No worries - IMO, the best tubeless benefits are realized on the rear wheel anyhow. May screw about with it on another crappy weather day in future, but no worries for now.










The Bud raises the front up near an inch over the stock Floater. Any concerns about running a slightly shorter a-2-c fork are, uh, well, not an issue.

Roomy. I don't tend to ride in nasty mud/muck, so not a worry for me. The greater tire weight was pretty much a wash with what I lost finally getting about to drilling the front rim.










35mm, smack between the nipples. Skipped the valve hole of course, and gave a pass to the rim seam as well. Might have been fine, but with a hole that big, figured to leave it alone. We shall see if 35mm is too much... Figured I'd chance it, being a front wheel and all.










The ounce bit of my scale got screwed up a couple years ago. Close enough for me. It hits 29-something with the dropper post swapped out for a regular post, same seat. However, I love me some dropper post function, so on it stays.










As light as I'm going to get, without throwing boatloads more cash at the thing. Pretty damn happy with it as is though.










Spinning about the neighborhood this afternoon, it's noticeably zippier feeling. Stupid amounts of fun! As I've said, not going to be replacing my Chromag or my Blur TRc anytime soon, but is sure as hell a nice adjunct!


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## merlinmalt (Aug 20, 2008)

Looking good scrublover. Just a thought but how about drilling out where the valve is and moving the valve hole to where the seam is. Just go either side without touching the seam, it's what I did and is fine. Makes for a more uniformed finish


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## buggymancan (Jan 30, 2005)

has anyone heard an update on the Baby fat bike w/ 26" wheels?


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## Welnic (Feb 6, 2013)

I haven't heard any updates on the Baby Fatty, but I do know that it has 24" wheels.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Scrublover, that front looks good drilled to 35mm. I think I'll go with that when I get mine.


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## easyrider75 (Aug 6, 2012)

How does the On-One Fatty compare to the Surly ones? I'm going to be moving back to Canada from the UK and I want to get myself a fat bike too enjoy the winter. Stupid question, are they good in snow?


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## Ramjm_2000 (Jan 29, 2005)

I looked at the Surleys and the Salsa before buying mine. The Fatty checked all the boxes and looked more unique. Based on all the info on the site and feedback on the floaters it supposedly does real well in the snow (hadn't gotten any here yet). That said I'm probably selling my fatty only because Fat biking in general doesn't really suit my riding style. Good luck!

JR


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## easyrider75 (Aug 6, 2012)

I agree the Fatty does look more unique. I think it looks good. I just wanted something to play on during the winter. It's a shame it doesn't have rack mounts.


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## flobukki (Nov 6, 2012)

you can put front and rear racks on a fatty. no prob.


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## easyrider75 (Aug 6, 2012)

I'm presuming using p-clips and seat post mount?


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## flobukki (Nov 6, 2012)

there are threads near the dropouts you can use and i got a cheap seatclamp that has a mount like the salsa rack-clamp. a cheap 25,-ish rack fits just fine mounting the stays on the outside instead the inside. i drilled the fork and mounted a minoura front rack that was on sale at onone. fits nicely.


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## djembe975 (Apr 12, 2008)

Can anyone tell me what spacing is the Fatty fork? Is it 135mm front disc spacing or 135mm rear disc spacing. In other words, is it compatible with a Surly Ultra New hub or a Pauls Whub?


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## zozzo69 (Jan 22, 2014)

That's a rear disc spacing.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

It's rear-hub 135 spacing. I just put on a Carver Carbon fork (like pictured above) and realized that I didn't have a 180mm post-to-post disc brake adapter in my tool box. No problem, I just swiped the rear one from my in-storage 29er bike, lined up perfectly. One problem though is that the rotor has to be spaced out a little, the fork comes with the spacer, but the spacer ended up being just a little too much and caused the disc to rub/contact the fork, so I had to file it down a bit, now it seems to work perfectly. Now with the light fork, bars, seatpost, tubes, saddle, cassette and pedals I am using, the weight should be just below 30lbs...but not really with the 3 frame-bags


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## djembe975 (Apr 12, 2008)

So the fork has the same spacing as a Surly Pugs fork and I wouldn't have an issue using the Surly Ultra new hub with the Fatty fork?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

I have a question on sizing. I'm 5'9" and have been steered towards a 16" Fatty. Currently ride a 907 in Medium. Any thoughts from those with Fatties?


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## bricke (Jul 23, 2008)

I'm 5'9" and i fit perfectly on a 18 fatty frame, 16 is too small for me


Tapatalk from iPhone


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

With more time on the bike, it'd be nice if it was just a bit larger when I spend time spinning on the bike. The tighter terrain and trails are fine at medium for me, but it's a tad smallish. You'd be fine on a medium IMO, especially given the stem size and how you could just get a shorter one.


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## zozzo69 (Jan 22, 2014)

Actually it also depends on your legs size. I am 5.9 and started on a 16" fatty. The position is fine for me with a 80mm stem. But i have long legs (34") and so the seat post is at its maximum height which it is not so good. With slightly shorter legs i would have kept it. Finally i have ordered a 18" Fatty frame and will sell the 16" one.
I hope it will help you to chose.


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## bvfromru (Sep 27, 2012)

bvfromru said:


> Hi, guys! Does anyone know any nice triangle framebag that optimally fits Fatty frame?


Thanks for responses, guys!
I finally found solution in Uraltour - fully customisable bike pack for Fatty. You give them dimensions, they give you a product. And the can make light pogies as well.

Few pics of my equipped fatty:


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Thanks for the sizing help, gents. I picked up a 18" on shmebay- should arrive today and I hope to have it built up by the weekend. Will post pics and ride/ sizing report...


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Nevermind.


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## Ramjm_2000 (Jan 29, 2005)

Sweet Bags...very nice.



bvfromru said:


> Thanks for responses, guys!
> I finally found solution in Uraltour - fully customisable bike pack for Fatty. You give them dimensions, they give you a product. And the can make light pogies as well.
> 
> Few pics of my equipped fatty:
> ...


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Anyone know if the problem solvers adapter takes an e-type derailleur?


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## Optiflow (Mar 21, 2013)

Optiflow said:


> I have a problem with the outer bearing of the freehub. It didn't spin freely. I tried to lubricate it and managed get it a little better shape. But there is some damage done.
> I asked from On-One about the warranty, because I bought my bike about 10 months ago. Their answer was this: they cannot cover the replacement of bearings and freehubs under warranty as they are considered consumables. I can, however, buy a replacement part at a reduced price.
> I haven't yet decided what to do...
> It sucks that it's a OK that these parts will break down a matter of months, even though they have serviced on a regular basis.


In this case we have a happy ending 
As a final result OnOne sent me a new freehub body free of any charge.


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

alshead said:


> Anyone know if the problem solvers adapter takes an e-type derailleur?


No. It requires a direct mount derailleur. But an e-type should work properly (without the problem solver adaptor).

Tim


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Hmmm*

Got her built up and all the parts transferred over. Moving everything from my 907 with Carver Carbon fork, this bike (frame/ fork) is 3 full pounds heavier. I will get it out for a ride this weekend, but I'm already thinking that I should have gotten the 16" (anyone wanna trade?). Even though the ETT is shorter than my 907, the reach is longer, and the wheelbase is quite a bit longer. Still, she's super pretty and feels super stable just on rides around the block- the steering is way less twitchy than my 907, which is the main thing I was curious about- I think they nailed something with the rake on the these bikes that other companies haven't come around to yet.


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## TRAIL CRANKER (Apr 9, 2010)

alshead said:


> Got her built up and all the parts transferred over. Moving everything from my 907 with Carver Carbon fork, this bike (frame/ fork) is 3 full pounds heavier. I will get it out for a ride this weekend, but I'm already thinking that I should have gotten the 16" (anyone wanna trade?). Even though the ETT is shorter than my 907, the reach is longer, and the wheelbase is quite a bit longer. Still, she's super pretty and feels super stable just on rides around the block- the steering is way less twitchy than my 907, which is the main thing I was curious about- I think they nailed something with the rake on the these bikes that other companies haven't come around to yet.
> 
> View attachment 872892


I'm 5'6" and have a small 16" frame was perfect for me , you can always adjust the stem a handle length ,, and move seat further up, i agree on your observation with the fork rake ,and find the bike handles perfectly, i'm just about to install my new Fatty carbon fork to lighten it as bit more, i will be under 30lbs. Enjoy.


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## Ramjm_2000 (Jan 29, 2005)

Looks good with the blue rims, nice touch.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Wombat said:


> QUOTE=alshead;11028153]Anyone know if the problem solvers adapter takes an e-type derailleur?


No. It requires a direct mount derailleur. But an e-type should work properly (without the problem solver adaptor).

Tim

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

I assume there is no way to use any standard fd since it would not be long enough?

Sent from telecommunications device with touchscreen keyboard.


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Mr Pink57 said:


> No. It requires a direct mount derailleur. But an e-type should work properly (without the problem solver adaptor).
> 
> Tim
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk


I assume there is no way to use any standard fd since it would not be long enough?

Sent from telecommunications device with touchscreen keyboard.[/QUOTE]

That's right. The direct mount fat adapter offsets the derailleur to account for the wider bottom bracket.

Tim

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Thanks, Trail Cranker. How much weight savings is there with the carbon fork? And where did you get it- seems they are out of stock? Not due until April?


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## TRAIL CRANKER (Apr 9, 2010)

I bought carbon fork at the on one uk site when they first came out ,,but they sold out in like 3 hrs.You will save 1.1 Lbs with the fork uncut , so about 1.6 lbs. ,you also should buy a compression headset to go with the install. They are also designing carbon fiber frame also, i think it may be ready in a couple of months.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Well, there it is, then. I didn't know they had a carbon in the works. I was thinking last night, if someone made a carbon F&F with this geometry, it would be over. I'll be keeping an eye out for that one. In the meantime, back to my trusty 907...


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Thanks. You can get a direct mount FD for cheaper than the dang problem solvers adapter!?


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## TRAIL CRANKER (Apr 9, 2010)

Mr Pink57 said:


> Thanks. You can get a direct mount FD for cheaper than the dang problem solvers adapter!?


You can buy the origin 8 adapter cheaper on ebay.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Quick question. What size seat post clamp does the Fatty have? I'm ordering one now, but want to get a QR seatpost clamp.


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

Stevob said:


> Quick question. What size seat post clamp does the Fatty have? I'm ordering one now, but want to get a QR seatpost clamp.


I believe it is 34.9mm


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

Stevob said:


> Quick question. What size seat post clamp does the Fatty have? I'm ordering one now, but want to get a QR seatpost clamp.


Mine came with a QR (purchased Jan '14)

Fat Biker


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## Ramjm_2000 (Jan 29, 2005)

Mine came/has one (for sale)


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## th1npower (Dec 6, 2010)

I'm interested in the On-One rolling frame and need some advice.

I have a Trek 69er SS w/ the Maverick DUC fork that I am thinking of putting on the on-one rolling chasis, along w/ a Phil Wood BB, then buying parts to complete the bike. I figure the fatty could double as my hardtail so I'll end up selling the Trek 69er frame. Also, thinking of running a 29er wheelset during the summer months vs keeping the bike a pure fatty.

Any thoughts? And lots of thanks!
Micah


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Fat Biker said:


> Mine came with a QR (purchased Jan '14)
> 
> Fat Biker


Really? I found nothing in the box for mine was it buried in there somewhere? I may have to contact Planet X for this, it does not say anything in the description about a seatpost clamp, it did come with QR skewers though.


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

Mr Pink57 said:


> Really? I found nothing in the box for mine was it buried in there somewhere? I may have to contact Planet X for this, it does not say anything in the description about a seatpost clamp, it did come with QR skewers though.


Mine was a complete bike . 
Was your's a rolling chassis/frameset ?
If so this could be the reason .

Fat Biker


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Thanks for the replies. I can confirm after checking with On-One that the complete bike comes with a qr seat post clamp


----------



## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Was looking through this thread and On-One was talking about the hub manufacturer being a good one but was unsure which one to choose, does anyone know which manufacturer they chose for their hubs? I looked through a lot of this thread but found nothing.


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Mr Pink57 said:


> Was looking through this thread and On-One was talking about the hub manufacturer being a good one but was unsure which one to choose, does anyone know which manufacturer they chose for their hubs? I looked through a lot of this thread but found nothing.


See here: On One Fat Bike Frame - Page 55

Tim


----------



## keyhavenpotterer (Feb 22, 2013)

Fatty gets around fatbike on Vimeo


----------



## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Aside from the On One version, is anyone else using a carbon (or any other) fork with the fatty?


----------



## TRAIL CRANKER (Apr 9, 2010)

trumpus said:


> Aside from the On One version, is anyone else using a carbon (or any other) fork with the fatty?


Carbon Fork options for the On-One Fatty


----------



## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

...so one of the recent "picture of the day" features on Bikerumor showed an all orange fatty with a carbon fork. What gives? Are these available in all orange? Is he carbon fork available yet?


----------



## TRAIL CRANKER (Apr 9, 2010)

trumpus said:


> ...so one of the recent "picture of the day" features on Bikerumor showed an all orange fatty with a carbon fork. What gives? Are these available in all orange? Is he carbon fork available yet?


You can pre-order carbon fork on uk site, believe 2nd batch is coming out in Apr. Color is Blk Or white. About orange frame ,i don't know ,it wasn't an option ,maybe it they are adding a new color soon ??


----------



## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

I think any Fatty out there that is not white, is likely a custom repaint.


----------



## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

trumpus said:


> ...so one of the recent "picture of the day" features on Bikerumor showed an all orange fatty with a carbon fork. What gives? Are these available in all orange? Is he carbon fork available yet?


That was a fork (and frame) that the customer had painted themself.


----------



## menfot (Feb 22, 2014)

brant said:


> That was a fork (and frame) that the customer had painted themself.


It was a labour of love repainting my new forked Fatty. Took 78 pots of my wife's Max Factor Nail Varnish (super diamond chip resistant) I nearly went for the pearlised glitter but decided that might be a bit outré.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

menfot said:


> It was a labour of love repainting my new forked Fatty. Took 78 pots of my wife's Max Factor Nail Varnish (super diamond chip resistant) I nearly went for the pearlised glitter but decided that might be a bit outré.
> 
> View attachment 882058


Are you serious? You painted it with nail polish? Err well done...I think.


----------



## fatbones (Apr 23, 2014)

Does anybody have the geometry specs for the On One Fatty? I thought I'd seen it a few days ago on at on-one.co.uk, but now I can't find it.


----------



## fatbones (Apr 23, 2014)

I emailed Planet X USA and he gave me the link. Thanks!

Found it on this site: On-One 'Fatty' Fat Bike | Planet X


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Finally!!!

The bike and the fork arrived on the same day.


----------



## th1npower (Dec 6, 2010)

Looks sharp w/ the fork! Great bikes guys/gals!


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

th1npower said:


> Looks sharp w/ the fork! Great bikes guys/gals!


Thanks! Just a few ramblings/observations after my first few rides...

1) Cleats are good if you're going fast and jumping.
2) I was concerned about my heels rubbing the stays. I get less of this on this bike than I do my 29er.
3) Q-factor increase is not noticeable to me.
4) Grip. OMFG.
5) I love the 780mm wide bars.
6) Front end feels lighter and easier to lift than my 19 pound SS.
7) You don't notice the weight until you have to lift it over a fallen tree.

If anyone is thinking about buying one of these, I suggest go right ahead, providing that you like having fun whilst riding.


----------



## fatbones (Apr 23, 2014)

Nice comments on the bike. I'm considering building one myself. Is there anything out of the ordinary when building one of these? 

I see the bb is 100mm, head set is 1 1/8" tapered to 1 1/2", rims are 135mm & 170mm. Can a 160mm brake be used on the front?

Any other info that might help?


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Thanks. If you use their fork, then remember that it's (both steel and carbon versions) got a straight steerer tube so you need the right headset/crown race to put that in a tapered head tube. You can use a 160mm brake, but I recommend 180. I'm about 73kg and I'm glad it's got a 180mm rotor on the front. They're heavy things to pull up quickly. Seat tube is 31.6, clamp is 34.9. I'm finding that I never use the granny ring at the front. 36t only. Front fork is rear brake spaced so make sure you get the correct hub.

That's all I can think of unless you have more specific questions.


----------



## fatbones (Apr 23, 2014)

Thanks for the info. I noticed the rear derailleur hanger doesn't match to what I have so I'd have to get a different one. Went to finally order the rolling chassis and all sizes are are out of stock. Went to order the complete 16" bike, out of stock. The Planet X USA site doesn't show stock quantity until you actually try and put it in your cart. So this wasn't meant to be for me.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

The complete bikes are still available from the UK if you get desperate. That's where I got mine from, but I'm in Australia anyway, so it worked out slightly cheaper than getting one from the US.


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## HOSSinNH (Apr 26, 2013)

Sorry to ask a question that's been asked in this thread before, but I'm still a little squeamish to pull the trigger on an order. Really looking forward to my Rolling Chassis to arrive!

I have a set of these on an older giant in the garage (Truvativ FireX Isis). They have a Race Face Narrow Wide on them already and everything:










Will the stock BB work with these arms? I *think* I read that Hussefelt wasn't true ISIS and I see it's mentioned in the description.

TruVativ Howitzer Team Bottom Bracket 100mm Shell 66mm Chainline in Tree Fort Bikes Fat Bike Cranks/BB (cat925)

Or would I be better of with this?

FSA Platinum DH 100mm ISIS drive Bottom Bracket from Fatbikes.com

Would be nice to go with the X5 crankset, but still exploring where I can save some money to splurge elsewhere.

Thanks for any help.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

I can't answer your question as to whether your crank will fit the FSA bottom bracket.

The Fatty frame doesn't come supplied with a bottom bracket. Just a standard english threaded bare bottom bracket shell.


----------



## HOSSinNH (Apr 26, 2013)

Stevob said:


> I can't answer your question as to whether your crank will fit the FSA bottom bracket.
> 
> The Fatty frame doesn't come supplied with a bottom bracket. Just a standard english threaded bare bottom bracket shell.


Thanks. I can't seem to see anywhere that specifically says howitzer BB is isis. I'd prefer to use it though. FSA says isis, my cranks are isis and I think that's the safe bet.


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

This makes clear they're not the same: "the Howitzer spline looks similar to the ISIS Drive standard spline but is actually different, so as to prevent the usage of ISIS Drive cranks on the external bearing BB, which would affect chainline and Q-factor." (Bottom bracket - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)

Tim


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## ombrotipo (Mar 27, 2011)

I finish my on one fatty build

Hope you like it!









On One fatty frame 18"
On One fatty carbón fork. Mix tapered headset
On One fatty wheels and orange floater tyres. Specialized inner tubes
Thomson stem, carbón bar, seatbar, collar and headset top cap
Hope fatsno skewers
Spec saddle
Esi Grips. 
Xt 2013 brakes
Xt transmisión with Leonardi General lee cogs. Wolftooth 30t chainring and Truvativ Howitzer cranks


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

ombrotipo said:


> I finish my on one fatty build
> 
> Hope you like it!


I like...what's it weigh?


----------



## HOSSinNH (Apr 26, 2013)

Wombat said:


> This makes clear they're not the same: "the Howitzer spline looks similar to the ISIS Drive standard spline but is actually different, so as to prevent the usage of ISIS Drive cranks on the external bearing BB, which would affect chainline and Q-factor." (Bottom bracket - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)
> 
> Tim


Thanks Tim, I didn't catch that at first!

Love the carbon fork!, I wish I had got one when I ordered the rolling chassis.


----------



## ombrotipo (Mar 27, 2011)

Tunalic said:


> I like...what's it weigh?


Dont know yet. Will see, thank you!


----------



## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

ombrotipo said:


> I finish my on one fatty build
> 
> Hope you like it!
> 
> ...


The carbon fork is sweet. Just curious about the specialized tubes. If those are the same as what comes on the FatBoy, they're some of the heaviest tubes you can find...

There are two types of mountain bikers. Those who are faster than me, and me.


----------



## ombrotipo (Mar 27, 2011)

alshead said:


> The carbon fork is sweet. Just curious about the specialized tubes. If those are the same as what comes on the FatBoy, they're some of the heaviest tubes you can find...
> 
> There are two types of mountain bikers. Those who are faster than me, and me.


Hi alshead!!!

The spec inner tubes are the 2.3-3.0 ones. Not the Fatboy inner tubes. 
They are 300gr lighter than the on one inner tubes


----------



## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

What stem length are most of you riding outside of the standard, which I think is 60mm? 

My scenarios I have done so far:

80mm stem with Titec J Bars
100mm stem with Mary Bars
50mm stem with Nukeproof 760mm riser
40mm stem with Nukeproof 760mm riser

So far I am at the 40mm and staying there for now. Is anyone else using a stem so short? This is my first venture in to short stem wide bars, although my XC bike is a 90mm stem with 711mm flat bars. But the Fatty seems to lend itself to a more AM setup with a slacker geo.

EDIT: I should add I am about 5ft 9in 32in inseam more leg then torso and running 175mm cranks on a 16in frame.


----------



## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

I'm running a 50mm with the std El guapo Ancho bars (760mm wide I think)


----------



## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Nevermind.


----------



## ombrotipo (Mar 27, 2011)

70mm stem with the 730mm Thomson x country carbón bar.


----------



## zeb (May 21, 2006)

What happened to new V2 wheelset that was on market couple weeks ago?


----------



## HOSSinNH (Apr 26, 2013)

I decided to go with the x5 crankset like the On One build. Being my first ever build, I have yet another dumb question. She's all together, but the driveline doesn't look right. 32 single ring on the front, 11-36 10x on back. The angle of the chain coming off the 32 and getting to the 36 is a tad extreme. Are the bikes coming with both spacers on the BB (one each side) with the X5 crankset?. Or is it just one on non-drive? Thanks for any help.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

I have the 2x X5 on my Fatty. It has just one spacer each side. For what it's worth, I usually run it like a 1x, and never have issues with shifting into the 36 rear and I use that combo frequently.


----------



## HOSSinNH (Apr 26, 2013)

Stevob said:


> I have the 2x X5 on my Fatty. It has just one spacer each side. For what it's worth, I usually run it like a 1x, and never have issues with shifting into the 36 rear and I use that combo frequently.


Great, thanks for the help!


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

HOSSinNH said:


> Great, thanks for the help!


If you have the tire/chain clearance you can use both spacers on the non driveside to improve the chainline.


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

My Fatty stopped shifting on my last ride. The x-5 shifter froze and it felt like it was stuck between gears. When I got home I pulled the shifter apart and found the cable had jumped out of its retention point and the rotating barrel it sits in had moved. The cable had then bent so it stopped the barrel from turning in either direction. 

I hadn't secured the rear wheel properly and it had jumped partially out of the drop outs. I assume that the wheel moved at the same time I was shifting and this released tension on the derailleur, which in turn released tension on the shifter cable. This doesn't quite make sense, but it's the only cause I can think of.

I replaced the cable, eventually worked out how to get the shifter's spring back in place and reassembled it. I then found I only had 5 of the 10 gears as I hadn't released the shifter's tension before reconnecting the cable. I puled it apart, did this and everything is working properly again. 

I couldn't find any pictures or diagrams of the x-5s, but other versions are similar enough to work it out.

Tim


----------



## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

That's too bad. I am using a XT shifter/XTR RD and I have had the wheel slip out of the drop out 3 times now, twice in one race. It is annoying and am wishing Shimano made fat bike skewers to stop this non sense. However I have not had a mess like you had from it, but fear I might.

Can anyone recommend a close cam style skewer to use?

I also ordered a 30t ringmaster for my setup so it will run 30t x 12-36 9 speed. I think this will be a good mix all year around and I will be able to keep up with the skinny wheel guys without spinning out too much. Two trails here I am wanted more gear on with a 32t up front, but I think the 30t will lend itself to winter riding much more.


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Mr Pink57 said:


> That's too bad. I am using a XT shifter/XTR RD and I have had the wheel slip out of the drop out 3 times now, twice in one race. It is annoying and am wishing Shimano made fat bike skewers to stop this non sense. However I have not had a mess like you had from it, but fear I might.


Have you checked how your axle sits in the frame? I found the front's was barely short enough to allow the QR to clamp the fork and hub properly. This explains what I mean: http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/one-fatty-front-wheel-retention-914639.html.

I think in my case the wheel moving was probably user error as I haven't had any problems with this wheel before.

Tim


----------



## SundayRiverRider (Oct 29, 2008)

Any news on if this frameset will be updated in the near future? Wider fork, 190mm rear spacing, Bluto ready etc.?


----------



## Titus/On One USA (Jul 27, 2011)

SundayRiverRider said:


> Any news on if this frameset will be updated in the near future? Wider fork, 190mm rear spacing, Bluto ready etc.?


There is a Fatty Trail in development right now and as soon as we are confident that we have the details worked out, then we will make sure to let everybody know.


----------



## rpedro (Jul 21, 2014)

love reading this thread being I am waiting on my brand new Fatty... I am looking at adding a one ring crank like the majority of owners here... any advice, thoughts on an ideal chainring size to make it a decent 1x10? and crank option, etc... I see some really nice ones on here just wondering if they are all custom or bought that way...

thanks!!!


----------



## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Wombat said:


> Have you checked how your axle sits in the frame? I found the front's was barely short enough to allow the QR to clamp the fork and hub properly. This explains what I mean: http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/one-fatty-front-wheel-retention-914639.html.
> 
> I think in my case the wheel moving was probably user error as I haven't had any problems with this wheel before.
> 
> Tim


I have not looked yet but I think the rear could stand to remove some paint from the drop out. All 3 times this has happened it is me hammering up a hill in a harder gear vs sitting and spinning. I attribute doing that to riding almost exclusively on a SS bikes, this is actually my only gear bike.


----------



## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

IT would be great of DT Swiss made a RWS thru-bolt for the 170mm rear. Like this DT Swiss - RWS Thru bolt


----------



## rpedro (Jul 21, 2014)

any idea what HOPE skewer sizes are needed for the stock wheels??? thanks!!!

found it... 135/170


----------



## rpedro (Jul 21, 2014)

looking at my future wheel upgrade... I am worried on them fitting... I will be buying the carbon fatty fork first of course...

Surly Clown Shoes front and back
Surly bud and lou tires

(or are the bfls better???) I will be riding trails, but mostly flatland concrete...

or if these won't fit (which will be a bummer)

should I go with a set of the Rolling Darryls... same tire questions...

thanks!!!


----------



## zeb (May 21, 2006)

Sorry but CS and 4.8 tires is no go both rear and front .
On one Fatty carbon fork with RD and Bud is OK but mud clearance is minimal.


----------



## rpedro (Jul 21, 2014)

zeb said:


> Sorry but CS and 4.8 tires is no go both rear and front .
> On one Fatty carbon fork with RD and Bud is OK but mud clearance is minimal.


well that sucks... but I guess a set of RD and a bud and lou combo would be sweet as well... or I have also looked at the 45NRTH Du's as well... choices, choices...
oops... I am assuming the 4.8s don't fit front AND back either... looks like a set of BFLS or DU'S...


----------



## zeb (May 21, 2006)

I had a change to ride this tubeless Fatty on trail.It was better than original set-up,however i like more Floater as rear tire than Knard 120tpi.


----------



## rpedro (Jul 21, 2014)

zeb said:


> I had a change to ride this tubeless Fatty on trail.It was better than original set-up,however i like more Floater as rear tire than Knard 120tpi.


wow looks cool... I am wondering if running different sized tires like that works properly or should I match a set of BFLs or DUs...


----------



## zeb (May 21, 2006)

Matching tires looks way better allways but if you have chance to try different front tires i highly recommend to do it.Fatbikes steering and riding characters varies hugely due to the front end ie. tire size/pressure.Rear tire will follow where front goes.


----------



## rpedro (Jul 21, 2014)

zeb said:


> Matching tires looks way better allways but if you have chance to try different front tires i highly recommend to do it.Fatbikes steering and riding characters varies hugely due to the front end ie. tire size/pressure.Rear tire will follow where front goes.


really good info... thanks...:thumbsup:


----------



## Innota (Feb 22, 2012)

So is there any consensus on the sizing on this bike? If you are at the upper range of the medium, should you instead go for the largest one if you like to use a short stem?


----------



## Yetiski (Nov 15, 2010)

bad andy said:


> IT would be great of DT Swiss made a RWS thru-bolt for the 170mm rear. Like this DT Swiss - RWS Thru bolt


They do make one, they come factory on Beargrease carbon. The 12x177 is what it is called but it fits the stock hub that takes 170mm QR or 12x177mm. The spacers are wider to work with the thru frame kit. Looks just the one in your picture.


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Hi,
After reading a lot on fat bikes for the last year, i decided to order a fatty rolling chassis size large...should get it pretty soon!
Pics to come.

One question, any of you tried existing frame bag in the fatty frame? Like something made for another brand of bike... I dont want to go with a custom frame bag if something already made fit.


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

tartosuc said:


> Hi,
> One question, any of tou tried existing frame bad in the fatty? Like something made tor another brand of bike...


I think you are asking if anyone has used a Lefty in a Fatty frame. Many people have done this without any problems. You just need a Lefty with removable clamps and then use the fat bike clamp from Mendon Cycle Smith.

Tim


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Wombat said:


> I think you are asking if anyone has used a Lefty in a Fatty frame. Many people have done this without any problems. You just need a Lefty with removable clamps and then use the fat bike clamp from Mendon Cycle Smith.
> 
> Tim


Sorry for the bad spelling of my previous post...i have a hardtime with my tablet keyboard.

I've corrected my post...i was talking about frame bag


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Hi
I just join the fatty family.


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Anyone know if the RS Bluto would work with the 20" frame?


----------



## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

tartosuc said:


> Hi
> I just join the fatty family.


What size frame-set and what cranks are those Tarto???


----------



## jvm051 (Mar 10, 2009)

nitrousjunky said:


> Anyone know if the RS Bluto would work with the 20" frame?


Yes, I can get pictures tonight. Just got mine installed and an waiting for tires to finish build.


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

jvm051 said:


> Yes, I can get pictures tonight. Just got mine installed and an waiting for tires to finish build.


Cool, would definitely appreciate it!


----------



## jvm051 (Mar 10, 2009)

The crown more than clears the downtube with a Cane Creek External cup.









nitrousjunky said:


> Cool, would definitely appreciate it!


----------



## stugee (Sep 16, 2014)

Just joined the Fat Bike community.

Ordered the On-one Fatty Cruiser for £699. Seems like too good a bargain to miss!


----------



## HOSSinNH (Apr 26, 2013)

jvm051 said:


> The crown more than clears the downtube with a Cane Creek External cup.
> 
> View attachment 923829


Thanks for the picture! Awesome!


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Awesome! Thanks jvm051!


----------



## Lordie (Sep 27, 2005)

new bike day  got the fatty chasis bundle.









On-one fatty frame + steel fork
Hope Fatsno =135/170 /w hope skewers
Vee Mission tyres, i suppose to get floaters but they shipped this instead 
Race Face Ride 100mm w/ 32T NW RF chainring
Avid Juicy Carbon 180/160mm
Brooks C17s
Thomson 60mm stem
FSA K-Force carbon bars
Crankbrothers cobalt 3 seatpost
XO 9 speed gripshift with PG990 Red cassette
Crankbrothers Candy 3.
KMC x10 SL chain

total weight 15.04kg


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Any word on whether the Fun Fatty 24" will be coming to the states?


----------



## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

That's just my size!


----------



## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

Nurse Ben said:


> Any word on whether the Fun Fatty 24" will be coming to the states?


huh? it's an online store... you order them, they send it to your house. so it's available anywhere!

the planet x usa webstore has them if that's what you're asking.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Okay, I see it now.

So, has anyone ordered it? Why is there a $300 difference between the 2 x 10 and the 1 x 10?

Is it reasonable to ride this thing if you're six feet tall?


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

i got the rolling chassi lately, i found that the fatty fork was defective(crack Inside the steertude)one one is taking care of me on this...

While i'm wating on my new fork, i toy ideas around for a 3 day fatbike trip I'm doing this winter with friends. 
this is what i did today... a top tube bag with an old porta pack frame bag i had home, with a custom pocket Inside for my cell phone or a camera


----------



## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

I was thinking some similar but filling the space in the triangle also. Having two zippers up top that I could put a phone in and some food in another. Still have the side pocket though.

There is a local guy here who does frame bags, he has shown interest in building this idea for me.


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Mr Pink57 said:


> I was thinking some similar but filling the space in the triangle also. Having two zippers up top that I could put a phone in and some food in another. Still have the side pocket though.
> 
> There is a local guy here who does frame bags, he has shown interest in building this idea for me.


medium revelate bag works good in the triangle.


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Mr Pink57 said:


> I was thinking some similar but filling the space in the triangle also. Having two zippers up top that I could put a phone in and some food in another. Still have the side pocket though.
> 
> There is a local guy here who does frame bags, he has shown interest in building this idea for me.


i tought about it also..but i will have frame bag Under the top tube anyways, the little space Inside the twin top tube iŝ not so big so i dont feel i,m loosing much..plus i already had the bag, just needed some modification....

let us know if you get the bag made, id like to see it.


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Jayem said:


> medium revelate bag works good in the triangle.


the full frame bag or the tangle bag?

i have a tangle bag that fits good


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

tartosuc said:


> the full frame bag or the tangle bag?
> 
> i have a tangle bag that fits good


full frame bag. It tends to pack out wider than on the surly due to the wider design of the twin top tubes, kind of makes up for the smaller vertical area.


----------



## VeloRyan (May 19, 2008)

Has any one run the On One fatty frame with 29+ wheels yet? Curious if there is enough clearance with a Knard.

Thanks and if you have pics, post 'em if you got 'em.


----------



## deuxdiesel (Jan 14, 2007)

Not a chance. The Knard 3.0 on a R/H hits the chainstay bridge. No amount of trimming will get it to fit.


----------



## pharcyde (Aug 30, 2008)

Bags made by a guy on Etsy called Rogue Panda Designs. Custom fit and custom design all done long distance by email between Arizona and OZ.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Nice. I hope to do some bikepacking with my fatty in the future and would imagine it set up very similar to yours.


----------



## dancing james (Sep 27, 2010)

currently my partner has a salsa mukluk, and i am considering porting most of the parts over to a fatty frame with carbon forks as a christmas present.

how much weight difference would there be between the mukluk frame and fork vs a fatty and carbon fork?

are the decals on the carbon fork on top or below the lacquer?

re the frame, what size seatpost does it take? i would be interested in upgrading her to a dropper seatpost.


----------



## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Been enjoying my fatty since Feb, it has been ridden more than any of my other bikes by far and away.

I am trying to find a proper frame bag for it, does anyone use a Ibera large bag?


----------



## jvm051 (Mar 10, 2009)

Just rebuilt the wheels after my friend crashed and broke my front wheel, and added a Bluto


----------



## VeloRyan (May 19, 2008)

jvm051...that's a good looking Fatty! Are you able to fit any larger tire out back than the "small" snowshoe?


----------



## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

just finished drilling the rims today...


----------



## jvm051 (Mar 10, 2009)

VeloRyan said:


> jvm051...that's a good looking Fatty! Are you able to fit any larger tire out back than the "small" snowshoe?


Good question, the chain and seat stays could fit more but the chain is really close to the tire in the big cog. I really wanted to get a Bulldozer for the rear but was afraid it would not fit, and since all the reviews said the Snowshoe was nowhere near 4.7, I figured it was worth a try. I wish it had better side knobs. I must say that the Snowshoe XL I'm running up front is an amazing tire, and wish Vee tire made the exact tire, just smaller for the rear. All in all with the Bluto and current setup, this bike is a blast to ride.


----------



## VeloRyan (May 19, 2008)

Thanks for the input jvm, I actually have a Bulldozer on the way also hoping to put it on the back....I guess I'll find out if it will fit.



jvm051 said:


> Good question, the chain and seat stays could fit more but the chain is really close to the tire in the big cog. I really wanted to get a Bulldozer for the rear but was afraid it would not fit, and since all the reviews said the Snowshoe was nowhere near 4.7, I figured it was worth a try. I wish it had better side knobs. I must say that the Snowshoe XL I'm running up front is an amazing tire, and wish Vee tire made the exact tire, just smaller for the rear. All in all with the Bluto and current setup, this bike is a blast to ride.


----------



## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

it was reported that a 4.7 BFL will fit. i will confirm that today.


----------



## VeloRyan (May 19, 2008)

Thanks fishcreek, i'll be interested to hear if it fits as the bulldozer is almost exactly the width. 


fishcreek said:


> it was reported that a 4.7 BFL will fit. i will confirm that today.


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

jvm051 said:


> Just rebuilt the wheels after my friend crashed and broke my front wheel, and added a Bluto
> View attachment 930487


I wish I had friends like yours.


----------



## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

VeloRyan said:


> Thanks fishcreek, i'll be interested to hear if it fits as the bulldozer is almost exactly the width.


here it is BFL'd.



like previously mentioned, the tire size issue is not the chainstay clearance but chain clearance. with the BFL, you have less than 10mm gap and most likely touch if you run 2x10.


----------



## VeloRyan (May 19, 2008)

Thanks, that is helpful...I think I should be able to clear the dozer tire.



fishcreek said:


> here it is BFL'd.


----------



## Griffin32 (Oct 26, 2013)

*Fatty. White Industries SnowWhite. Mulefut. Floaters. Shimano Zee. Race Face.*

Just a teaser. Setup tubeless with stan's tape, scotch 8898, and orange seal with no issues - still holding air after 3 days.

I've given it a quick drive around the block, but nothing outside of a gravel path. I'm itching to get out and get it on a real trail this weekend.


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## VeloRyan (May 19, 2008)

Nice build...what's the weight? 


Griffin32 said:


> Just a teaser. Setup tubeless with stan's tape, scotch 8898, and orange seal with no issues - still holding air after 3 days.
> 
> I've given it a quick drive around the block, but nothing outside of a gravel path. I'm itching to get out and get it on a real trail this weekend.
> 
> View attachment 931317


----------



## PedroK (Sep 29, 2014)

fishcreek said:


> just finished drilling the rims today...


Holes looks great. I did my drilling yesterday. Traditional way and only 30mm.


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## stugee (Sep 16, 2014)

PedroK said:


> Holes looks great. I did my drilling yesterday. Traditional way and only 30mm.


2 questions

What did you use for the orange colouring and once you put your rim tape on, did you apply duck tape as well?


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## PedroK (Sep 29, 2014)

Tape is orange duct tape. First one layer and the second layer of tape the other way round . Then, the original rim tape . Never did this before and I did not know what is the right way


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Delete


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## Griffin32 (Oct 26, 2013)

VeloRyan said:


> Nice build...what's the weight?


Not quite sure. Every thing is fairly weight conscious except the Zee brakes and Race Face Atlas bars. I'm certain that I'm less than 30lbs as pictured. Maybe around 26?


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## Griffin32 (Oct 26, 2013)

Griffin32 said:


> Just a teaser. Setup tubeless with stan's tape, scotch 8898, and orange seal with no issues - still holding air after 3 days.
> 
> I've given it a quick drive around the block, but nothing outside of a gravel path. I'm itching to get out and get it on a real trail this weekend.
> 
> View attachment 931317


OK. Here's the update after a few break-in rides.

The build was fairly strait forward. On-One Fatty Frame with their house Smoothie Mixer headset. I opted for the carbon fork because I ride carbon forks on almost every other bike I own with no issue. Plus I liked what others said about it on here. I used their house bung as recommended for the installation. No issues there.

Race Face Turbine Stem, crankset, and seat post. All very nice quality and decently priced when comparing to other options. I also watched fleaBay like a hawk for to try to get the lowest price for each item. All mounted with no issue. I also used the Race Face narrow-wide 30T chainring in the front for my 1x10 setup. The Wolf Tooth chainring I have on my other MTB is nicer, but the Race Face product seems nice for the money.

White Industries SnoWhite hubs laced to SunRingle MuleFut rims. Built by Dustin at southernwheelworks.com. Mounted tubeless. I used a narrowed Surly rimstrip (64mm) that I taped in place using Stans Tape starting at the bead. I then lined the wide portion of the rim with the super-wide 3M 8898 tape. I mounted the tires with tubes initially to make sure the tape had all of the bubbles squeezed out. After leaving the tires overnight, I pulled the tubes out - ensuring to leave one of the beads set. I then dumped in some Orange Brand sealant (4oz per tire) and installed my Stans valve stems. I was able to get the beads to catch using only a floor pump VERY EASILY. The tires held air since I mounted them.

(A quick aside: Dustin at SouthernWheelWorks was GREAT to work with. It's great to email the guy who builds your wheels and to have a conversation with him before committing to purchase. He offered some advice when it came to my initial thoughts on the wheelset and was spot on. I highly recommend his service. Top notch member of the greater cycling community. Dustin: If I'm ever in your neck of the woods, beer is on me.)

The rest of the build is simple. Shimano Zee drivetrain and brakes. I opted for the simpler RT66 rotors though. 180f and 160r. The braking is amazing. Modulation and power are awesome. Can't say enough about them. The drivetrain setup was strait forward and shifts as well as my much more expensive XO setup on my other MTB.

The ride is ridiculous, but a good ridiculous. Like a barrel full of chubby monkeys. I've read what others have said about tire pressures, but so far I've either been too high (kinda bouncy) or too low (self steering issues). As soon as I dial it in, I can't see myself riding anything else. I can't wait to ride it some more!


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

I like the low profile look of the Mulefut rims. Nice bike.


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## PedroK (Sep 29, 2014)

I was afraid that the tape was too red, but it is really good.


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

first real ride with mine.
unfortunately I had a flat front tire in less than2km
eneded up at the house drilling the rims and attempting a tubeless conversion


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## dgaddis1 (Jul 1, 2007)

Griffin32 said:


> White Industries SnoWhite hubs laced to SunRingle MuleFut rims. Built by Dustin at southernwheelworks.com. ...
> 
> (A quick aside: Dustin at SouthernWheelWorks was GREAT to work with. It's great to email the guy who builds your wheels and to have a conversation with him before committing to purchase. He offered some advice when it came to my initial thoughts on the wheelset and was spot on. I highly recommend his service. Top notch member of the greater cycling community. Dustin: If I'm ever in your neck of the woods, beer is on me.)


Wow, thanks for the kind words! That bike looks great!!


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## JRockF3 (Sep 27, 2007)

Griffin32 said:


> Not quite sure. Every thing is fairly weight conscious except the Zee brakes and Race Face Atlas bars. I'm certain that I'm less than 30lbs as pictured. Maybe around 26?


very nice build! is the carbon fork front disk spaced? THanks!


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## Griffin32 (Oct 26, 2013)

JRockF3 said:


> very nice build! is the carbon fork front disk spaced? THanks!


Please confirm with both the On-One and White Industries websites, but the fork is rear spaced as well as the hub. I used regular front Shimano 180 brake mount. No issues with the setup.


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## Antonio3z (Oct 22, 2014)

fishcreek said:


> here it is BFL'd.
> like previously mentioned, the tire size issue is not the chainstay clearance but chain clearance. with the BFL, you have less than 10mm gap and most likely touch if you run 2x10.


So as far as I've understood there's no hope to run a Surly Lou with the standard 70mm rim at the rear.

After checking the entire forum, seems that none has never tried the Lou with the Fatty.

Any advice?


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## emp? (Sep 8, 2009)

yeah no way a lou will fit, you can fit a 4.7 big fat larry or 4.25" H-Billie


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

interesting....notice anything...brant around?


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## stesteste (Mar 22, 2013)

that a carbon fatty looks like it fit a big rear


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

dRjOn said:


> interesting....notice anything...brant around?


Let's bring on an on-one carbon fatty with 190mm rear, thru axles, bluto ready and a 150mm carbon fork, and a carbon wheelset. All bundled into a rolling chassis bundle.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

dRjOn said:


> interesting....notice anything...brant around?


That is interesting, considering the closest news we've had about any carbon fatty was from awhile ago, and Italians were working on it! On-One Carbon Fatbike Collaboration with Sarto Bikes? UPDATED

What is going on here?!


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## Binderez (Oct 4, 2014)

Do you think the Snowshoe xl or bulldozer will fit in the rear?


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## VeloRyan (May 19, 2008)

Just tried fit of bulldozer, and it fits with plenty of clearance at CS and seatstay.



Binderez said:


> Do you think the Snowshoe xl or bulldozer will fit in the rear?


----------



## Binderez (Oct 4, 2014)

VeloRyan said:


> Just tried fit of bulldozer, and it fits with plenty of clearance at CS and seatstay.


Cool thanks! I ordered a set of snowshoe xls for my Fatty build, hopefully the Snowshoe xl will fit if not Ill just switch it for a bulldozer.


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## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

VeloRyan said:


> Just tried fit of bulldozer, and it fits with plenty of clearance at CS and seatstay.


how about chain clearance?


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## VeloRyan (May 19, 2008)

Not sure about chain clearance, I'm at the very beginning stages of parts gathering to build my Fatty still



fishcreek said:


> how about chain clearance?


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

Got it below 30 lbs. Took about 3lbs off installing Race Face Turbine Cinch Cranks & Black Floyds.


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## evokronik (Nov 4, 2014)

Hi m8´s:

I have a question. I want to buy the E.13 TRS+ cranks to my Fatty, but i dont know what bottom bracket have to buy. Someone can me help?
Thx

e.13 By The Hive TRS+ Fat Bike Crank > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

evokronik said:


> Hi m8´s:
> 
> I have a question. I want to buy the E.13 TRS+ cranks to my Fatty, but i dont know what bottom bracket have to buy. Someone can me help?
> Thx
> ...


The link to jenson is the discontinued model with a 67.5mm chain line. Make sure your frame can take this crank before purchasing.

You will need an e.13 specific threaded/bsa bb. I don't believe there are many inter-compatible bb's from other manufacturers compatible with the trs+ Fat cranks.


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## ombrotipo (Mar 27, 2011)

Hello. I have a problem with my fatty frame. I have seen a failure in the seat tube. Dont know if it is a paint damage or the frame is broken.

I have sent 2 online questions and eight mails asking about what to do and the next steps to use my warranty. On One Bikes dont answer me.

I have a inbred 29er and a Scandal bikes. Im a fanboy of On One Bikes but they arent doing nothing with my problem.




























sorry my english


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## dgaddis1 (Jul 1, 2007)

That just looks like paint to me.


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

dgaddis1 said:


> That just looks like paint to me.


I agree... that is on the weld and the least likely area to crack.


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## VeloRyan (May 19, 2008)

I am curious about how much seat post you have inserted in to the frame?


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## ombrotipo (Mar 27, 2011)

VeloRyan said:


> I am curious about how much seat post you have inserted in to the frame?


Hi!

The end of the seat post is 5cm under the damage zone

I think its a paint damage but the problem is the non-response of the brand.


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## TCG (May 5, 2011)

gretch said:


> I agree... that is on the weld and the least likely area to crack.


Very likely a crack mine cracked there too. Check also where the seatstay connect with seattube they tend to crack as well at the weld. I did get quite a quick reply though and replacement.


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## ombrotipo (Mar 27, 2011)

TCG said:


> Very likely a crack mine cracked there too. Check also where the seatstay connect with seattube they tend to crack as well at the weld. I did get quite a quick reply though and replacement.


Hi! I had have the answer from On One. The problem was with my Hotmail account. I told them my problem via Gmail and they reply me quickly. They wil replace me the frame


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Dillinger 5s clear the seat and chainstays just fine. Chain will depend on your gears and drivetrain setup, but it's definitely do-able.


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## VeloRyan (May 19, 2008)

Any chance for some pics from side and the rear? Thanks



Jayem said:


> Dillinger 5s clear the seat and chainstays just fine. Chain will depend on your gears and drivetrain setup, but it's definitely do-able.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Perhaps, the bike isn't running, but it has most drivetrain components.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

There is a little bit of rubbing on the chainguide, this wouldn't be a problem with narrow-wide+clutch derailleur, as you'd ditch the chainguide, the chain does just barely rub on the tire knobs (the cassette is an ultegra 11-30). Also, with a narrow-wide+clutch you won't have a loose chain bouncing into the tire. I suspect with a race-face turbine setup like I have on my other 170mm-hub fatbike you could arrange the spacers to give a little additional clearance and not have to do anything else most likely. Supposedly on the race-face setup you can "flip" the chainring and run it on the outside of the crankset too, but this hasn't been necessary on my carbon 170mm fatbike. The other way would be to eliminate the top-gear with a spacer and run it as 1x9. If you really want to do it though, it can be done I think. Frame clearance (hard to see in pics) is fine. Tires were at 40psi too.


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

Jayem said:


> Tires were at 40psi too.


Say wut ????? :eekster:

Fat Biker


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Fat Biker said:


> Say wut ????? :eekster:
> 
> Fat Biker


It's how you stretch tires for tubeless to make mounting easier.


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

Jayem said:


> It's how you stretch tires for tubeless to make mounting easier.


Never had the pleasure (fortunately) of going tubless on fat bike wheels . 
My On-One Floaters on the factory Fatty rims have a hard time staying on . They're super loose .

I realise tyres vary slightly in fit to various rims. And some need a little stretching and persuasion but 40psi I would say for a fat tyre that is too close to the limit for my taste. YMMV

I think the Floaters are rated at 20psi max.

Different kettle of fish but I've had tyres blow off 29er rims 10-20% below max psi and the tyre was ruined. Tyre looked perfectly fine upon inspection but would blow off the rim at lower and lower pressures.

The Floaters pumped up to they're rated max of 20psi are *rock solid*

Dunno what your tyres are rated at psi-wise but I would stick to max psi if I were you.

For nothing else other than risking unseen internal structure damage to the carcass , cos some of these things ain't cheap to replace.

Just sayin . You might have had a better experience.

Happy trails.

Fat Biker


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

I've destroyed two near new floaters by over inflation. Once in a hot car, and second trying to get split tube tubeless to seat the bead. I won't go there again.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Fat Biker said:


> Never had the pleasure (fortunately) of going tubless on fat bike wheels .
> My On-One Floaters on the factory Fatty rims have a hard time staying on . They're super loose .
> 
> I realise tyres vary slightly in fit to various rims. And some need a little stretching and persuasion but 40psi I would say for a fat tyre that is too close to the limit for my taste. YMMV
> ...


Um, pumping up tubeless tires like this is something you just do overnight. You also pump them up past 20psi when setting them on the rim, as they "pop" into place from the center channel to over the hump into the bead-lock. This makes a rather loud "bang" when it happens, and the rim is designed to offer a lot of resistance to keep the tire "sealed" in the process. Then you run like 3-10psi for the rest of the time, there won't be any catastrophic failures with psi that low. Even at 20psi the air just kind of slowly rushes out.

Yes, those floater rims are pretty terrible, combined with the loose tire it's almost impossible to get the things centered and "round" with tubes. There's always like 1/4" or more of warp left to right and like 1/2 out of round near the tube stem, unless you are using the big heavy surly or original on-one tubes, which are too heavy to be acceptable IMO, but hey, they do work.

I did run ghetto-tubless on one of the on-one rims and it was super easy to set up, it also bypassed the "loose tire" problems and set up a nice profile that did not have any of the warping/setting issues. I don't know if I'd try this with a floater (did it with a vee tires bulldozer, which is intended to be tubeless) though. Once you get enough pressure to lock the tire bead on the floaters, which I've found can easily exceed 20psi, then you can generally reduce the pressure way down, even with tubes, but yes, they are loose when not filled up and frustrating. Can't fault them too much though, they are plenty strong IME.

I've never had tires damaged due to too much internal pressure, but I have had tears and punctures that required significant repair. Any form of tape was usually totally insufficient, as the tube and PSI would eventually "win" and push it out from the inside. Sewing it back was usually the answer and held up decent in the long run, although there are some tougher patches and glue that supposedly work. I've never had a tire blow off the rim, but I'd have to suspect low pressures over high, as high usually reinforces the tire in the bead-lock, vs low gives it the ability to wiggle, but as you said, experiences vary and there's a wide range of stuff out there.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Anyone have a good recipe for setting up tubeless on the stock fatty rims with the floaters?

I currently use the schwalbe sv13f tubes, which are 180g each, so I'm trying not to add anymore weight, if possible. Thinking some kind of lightweight, dense foam to take up the slack between the loose fitting floaters and some kind of tape over that to seal against. Any suggestions?


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

4oz of stans is about 125g and you'll probably need a bit more to seal up initially, so maybe 6oz to be conservative (it's going to spray a bit at first as you get the bead to lock).

I don't think you're going to save any weight, possibly add. The benefits outweight the negatives and I'll say this: I spent at least an entire day a year ago or so trying to do some sort of foam-thing to the on-one rims to allow me to run the floaters tubeless. Course it would have added a lot more weight due to the foam and tape, etc. 

I did ghetto tubeless a few months ago and it sealed up with a floor pump. Took all of about 15 minutes. With fatbikes especially, the benefits of tubeless is not weight. It's rolling resistance, thorn resistance and ability to run very low pressures and not pinch a tube/have supple tires that conform.


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## boomforeal (Nov 9, 2005)

jvm051 said:


> Just rebuilt the wheels after my friend crashed and broke my front wheel, and added a Bluto


so, 6 weeks on, how's this working out?


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

boomforeal said:


> so, 6 weeks on, how's this working out?


I'm curious on this too. How's the steering compare and is the Bluto 80 or 100mm?


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

It's back from the dead:


----------



## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

Jayem said:


> It's back from the dead:
> View attachment 947049
> 
> 
> Nice, like the white tape, peddles etc, you want my white on one saddle?


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Tunalic said:


> Jayem said:
> 
> 
> > It's back from the dead:
> ...


----------



## pharcyde (Aug 30, 2008)

Im just gonna leave these here. 

Discussions are still on going regarding warranty.


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## pharcyde (Aug 30, 2008)

Warranty has been approved. New frame is on the way.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

I did something like that to a turner frame, it was my fault for using a seatpost that was too long (frame too small). Even though I had significantly more than the "min insert", it doesn't matter when you apply too long of a lever arm. Still, they handled it awesome.


----------



## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

pharcyde said:


> Im just gonna leave these here.
> 
> Discussions are still on going regarding warranty.


Just a random comment, I've only seen 3 cracked frames in person in 30+ years of riding & racing bikes, 2 of those 3 were On-Ones.......the other a Trek.....

Given how relatively rare On Ones are compared to other brands this strikes me as odd/worrisome.....I am glad they seem to have taken care of you with the warranty.

Enjoy the trails


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

Just joined the club, took delivery of my frame 12/30. Two solid rides in, one on 29+ tires and singletrack, the other on fatty wheels in the snow. This is my new favorite bike.


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## builder (Feb 18, 2008)

Sweet ride. How do you like the 29+ on the Fatty? Similarities/ differences/ likes and not compared to the 26 Fat wheels? Are they 29+ from ON One? Thanks.


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## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

MTBLoCo29 said:


> Just joined the club, took delivery of my frame 12/30. Two solid rides in, one on 29+ tires and singletrack, the other on fatty wheels in the snow. This is my new favorite bike.
> View attachment 953809
> View attachment 953811


Bike weight in the two configurations?


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

builder said:


> Sweet ride. How do you like the 29+ on the Fatty? Similarities/ differences/ likes and not compared to the 26 Fat wheels? Are they 29+ from ON One? Thanks.


Thanks, I love it. Not sure if it was just new-bike enthusiasm, but I was cleaning technical climbs and rock gardens better than with any other bike I've ridden on that trail. Part of it is the tires, part due to the geometry. My old fatbike was not as trail oriented. The only ride on the fat tires was in the snow, I'll report back once I get them on some single track. Both wheelsets were from my previous bike (came with a set of 29er wheels). The stock 29er rims were XC width, so I relaced some Velocity Blunt 35s. I did have to modify the caliper mount up front, as the forks are rear disc spaced and my wheels were standard front spacing. Another word of caution, these tires have about 3-4mm of clearance at the chainstay bridge. Not sure if a wider rim like a Rabbit Hole or Dually would spread the tire a bit more and give a slightly lower profile.


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

MMcG said:


> Bike weight in the two configurations?


I haven't weighed it with the fatties yet, but with the 29+ it came to 28lb, 10oz according to the gods at Park Tools.


----------



## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

If the On One can fit 29+ wheels, it's moving way up my list. What tires do you have on there?


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

seat_boy said:


> If the On One can fit 29+ wheels, it's moving way up my list. What tires do you have on there?


Don't let the lame description fool you, these are good tires. I only have a few rides in so I can't speak to durability, but hard to beat the price.. More reports after I have some more mileage in. Amazon.com : Innova 29 x 3.0 Fat Bike Tire With Tube! Gravity Vidar Black 29 Inch Package : Sports & Outdoors


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## deuxdiesel (Jan 14, 2007)

Whoa, wait. The Fatty can take 29+ wheels? Are you sure? No way in the world mine will. My 29x3.0 Knards on Rabbit Hole rims had to be completely deflated so they could squeeze around the chainstay bridge. Maybe a regular 29er tire, but no-go on the 29+ for my medium frame.


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

deuxdiesel said:


> Whoa, wait. The Fatty can take 29+ wheels? Are you sure? No way in the world mine will. My 29x3.0 Knards on Rabbit Hole rims had to be completely deflated so they could squeeze around the chainstay bridge. Maybe a regular 29er tire, but no-go on the 29+ for my medium frame.


I'm running a Gravity Vidar 29x3 on a Velocity Blunt 35 on my med. frame.Plenty of clearance everywhere but the chainstay bridge. I have about 3-4mm there, the new tire nubs graze the frame. No rubbing from the actual knobs as far as I can tell. I may zip tie a little beer can guard down there, as I can see mud building up there. Running something like an Ardent 2.4 would be no problem, I'm sure.


----------



## bvfromru (Sep 27, 2012)

*MTBLoCo29*, awesome info! Could you test any other 3" tires?


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

bvfromru said:


> *MTBLoCo29*, awesome info! Could you test any other 3" tires?


Unfortunately I don't have the disposable income to be trying a lot of different tires. I like these a lot so far, so I probably won't be replacing any time soon. I'll post up here if I try anything else. On my old frame, I ran the same Velocity wheels with Rampage 2.35s. They offered a ton of traction/cushion as well. I haven't tried them on the Fatty, but I'm sure they would have much better clearance then the 3".


----------



## bvfromru (Sep 27, 2012)

Yep, we need a billionaire enthusiast of 29+ with Fatty here. 
Thanks! I want to try true 29+ on Fatty too, but it's quite expensive for me now and I'm afraid to buy other tires and have no clearance at all. Maybe will try some day though.


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

bvfromru said:


> Yep, we need a billionaire enthusiast of 29+ with Fatty here.
> Thanks! I want to try true 29+ on Fatty too, but it's quite expensive for me now and I'm afraid to buy other tires and have no clearance at all. Maybe will try some day though.


There is more than enough room for the front, and only that one spot in the back is close, plenty of room everywhere else. I would say definitely get a 29er wheelset for it, but only buy one 3" tire to start. I know it will fit up front. Test fit that tire in the rear. If it does not fit, leave it on the front and get a 2.4-2.5 tire for the back.


----------



## bvfromru (Sep 27, 2012)

I thought about it, but delivery cost is expensive here, so I'll better buy two at once. Nevermind, thanks again!


----------



## RamP (Jun 2, 2012)

Sorry if this is covered already. 
Can I fit a 4.8" tire on the on one fatty? Perhaps with a 1X10.


----------



## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

RamP said:


> Sorry if this is covered already.
> Can I fit a 4.8" tire on the on one fatty? Perhaps with a 1X10.


 http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/one-fatty-big-fat-larrys-850110.html

I'm waiting on some Jumbo Jims.


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

RamP said:


> Sorry if this is covered already.
> Can I fit a 4.8" tire on the on one fatty? Perhaps with a 1X10.


I don't think so. Yesnomaybe depending on tire and rim choice, but doubtful.

Running a Bud up front, tried it in back on a Marge Lite just to see, and it was fuggedaboudit.

Something between the stock Floater size and the Bud would likely work, but meh, whatever.


----------



## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

RamP said:


> Sorry if this is covered already.
> Can I fit a 4.8" tire on the on one fatty? Perhaps with a 1X10.


I don't think so. I roll 1x10 with a Dillinger 4 on 90mm LB rims, and I would rub the chain if the tire were much bigger. A 4.8 would likely rub the chainstays or bridge as well.


----------



## Optiflow (Mar 21, 2013)

After 2 years and 2 months...

by Optiflow, on Flickr

by Optiflow, on Flickr
I'm not pleased.


----------



## VeloRyan (May 19, 2008)

This is concerning to me with regards to my Fatty frame. Please update with what comes of contact with On One and warranty process...I'm hoping it all goes smoothly for you and handled well


Optiflow said:


> After 2 years and 2 months...
> 
> by Optiflow, on Flickr
> 
> ...


----------



## pharcyde (Aug 30, 2008)

Unfortunately its a fact of life with the series 1 frame design. Mine cracked in the same spot and was replaced under warranty with a series 2 frame. The seat mast is double butted and significantly thicker in the area of the seat stay braces on the series 2 design.

This is the repaired series 1 frame with extra bracing added behind the seat mast


----------



## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

Nice. I've never even seen a "series 2" frame before. 
Is that a custom colour ? 


Fat Biker


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## pharcyde (Aug 30, 2008)

No the Black is just the old repaired frame, powder coated.

Series 2 frames look identical apart from a noticeably thicker seat tube from the double butting.


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

pharcyde said:


> No the Black is just the old repaired frame, powder coated.
> 
> Series 2 frames look identical apart from a noticeably thicker seat tube from the double butting.


Have to take a look at mine. Got it recently, and it has the post mount for the rear brake vs. tabs, so I'm hoping it's the series 2.


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Optiflow said:


> After 2 years and 2 months... I'm not pleased.


Optiflow, how many miles had your Fatty covered before this happened?

Thanks

Tim


----------



## Optiflow (Mar 21, 2013)

Wombat said:


> Optiflow, how many miles had your Fatty covered before this happened?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Tim


I tried to calculate the km's... Roughly 4000km (2485miles) trails and similar at all seasons. BUT I use the Fatty as allaround and commuting bike so countless number of short rides has to be added to that 4000km. For total number of km/miles, I can't answer.


----------



## stesteste (Mar 22, 2013)

i had the same thing frame was replaced had it 18 months frame has 2 year warranty


----------



## cka3o4nuk (Jul 17, 2013)

Ppl please help
will 4.9 chaoyang big dady fit on 80mm rim and 1x11 setup for everyday use?


----------



## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

Not familiar with the tyre and it's actual width (not the magic they print on the sidewall) but I would say no .
It's gonna be too wide to fit between the stays IMO .
I could be wrong though 


Fat Biker


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

cka3o4nuk said:


> Ppl please help
> will 4.9 chaoyang big dady fit on 80mm rim and 1x11 setup for everyday use?


Go 10 posts back. Someone asked about a 4.8. The answer was no.


----------



## stesteste (Mar 22, 2013)

what is the biggest tyre you can fit in the on one fatty comfortably


----------



## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

These cracks are concerning. I was pretty much set on this frame but now I'm not so sure.


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

stesteste said:


> what is the biggest tyre you can fit in the on one fatty comfortably


How comfy was the BFLs? I got some 4.8 Jumbo Jims coming...whenever they get here...been ordered over 6 mths now.


----------



## cr3anmachin3 (Feb 24, 2015)

hey all. New to Fat Bikes and considering getting the On-One Pink Fatty as it is slightly lower spec and I can remove all the pink bar the stem in the custom build options. Has anyone purchased this model themselves and if so what do they think? I was considering getting the frame/fork/wheels build kit but when I added up cranks/BB etc. I think the complete bike was coming out as a better deal! I'm also keen to get the rims drilled but would be worried about stuffing it up. Pretty straightforward job? Also anyone running a "Frankenfat" type build? They no longer seem to sell this bike but you can build it up. I'm hooked and obsessed...I feel a purchase coming on soon.


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## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

Here's my question I guess. 

I pretty much had my heart set on the fatty until seeing these frame breakages. On one is telling me they haven't had cracking issues with their fatty frames...

So are these cracking frames reason to not get a fatty?

I went from "if I could have any fat bike, it'd be a fatty" to "I don't know about that".


----------



## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

Anyone with some input on this? I have money burning a hole in my pocket and I'm ready to upgrade my bike, just not sure if the cracking issue on the Fatty is reason enough to look elsewhere.


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## mollusc (Jul 5, 2014)

I have one of the original Fattys, I was weighing in at 350lb when I first got it, I even bent a saddle after slipping off the pedals going down a rock garden (ouch, I have much grippier pedals now) and my frame is still going strong. I did strip the paint off and repaint (just for a change of colour) and there was no visible signs of damage. One thing I did right at the beginning was making sure the seatpost was inserted below the bracings on the frame, a 400mm post was fine. I don't know if some Fattys came with shorter posts.
That is just my experience.


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## Optiflow (Mar 21, 2013)

I got the new Fatty frame today. It's V.2 frame so it is a little different than older V.1 frame. I hope it's stronger. It looks like that the seat tube is made at thicker tube than the old one is.


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## devans (Apr 27, 2015)

This cracking issue wouldn't put me off the frame, but the weight would!!

Get yourself a Carbon fat bike frame and never look back!


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## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

Not into carbon. 

When I heard back from On One I was told "there are no cracking issues with these frames". Not sure if he was talking about V1 or V2.


----------



## Optiflow (Mar 21, 2013)

The old frame vs. the new frame









by Optiflow, on Flickr








by Optiflow, on Flickr


----------



## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

I once owned a British made car. The tow truck driver put more miles on it than I did.


----------



## pharcyde (Aug 30, 2008)

Optiflow said:


> The old frame vs. the new frame
> 
> 
> 
> ...


THIS POST SHOULD ANSWER ALL THE CONCERNS ABOUT THE FRAME.

The V2/Series 2 frame has been significantly beefed up in ALL the effected areas. The geo is exactly the same and the new frame design is MUCH cleaner. Do yourself a favor a get on a Fatty, you wont be sorry!

FYI My black Fatty is for sale in Australia ONLY. PM me for details.


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

pharcyde said:


> THIS POST SHOULD ANSWER ALL THE CONCERNS ABOUT THE FRAME.
> 
> The V2/Series 2 frame has been significantly beefed up in ALL the effected areas. The geo is exactly the same and the new frame design is MUCH cleaner. Do yourself a favor a get on a Fatty, you wont be sorry!
> 
> FYI My black Fatty is for sale in Australia ONLY. PM me for details.


Thanks for the clarification. Looks like I have the V2. I'm going to continue to beat the crap out of it with a smile on my face.


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## cr3anmachin3 (Feb 24, 2015)

Anyone running one of these as a 29"/700c commuter bike during summer months? Would be interested to know weight if using the On-One Fat Not Fat wheelset...and also stock weight for the stock Fatty and Pink Fatty if anyone can tell me? cheers


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

cr3anmachin3 said:


> Anyone running one of these as a 29"/700c commuter bike during summer months? Would be interested to know weight if using the On-One Fat Not Fat wheelset...and also stock weight for the stock Fatty and Pink Fatty if anyone can tell me? cheers


I haven't run commuter tires, but I have a 29+ wheelset that drops about 2lbs. Mine was a frame-up build, but nothing weight weenie: On-One seatpost and carbon fork, Hussefelt stem with Shimano PRO risers, Selle Italia Flite ti saddle, Ergon grips, SLX shifter/derailleur/cassette, Race Face Turbines with 30t, Avid BB7s. With the Mulefut/Nate combo, about 30lbs. With 36 hole Velocity Blunt 35s and Gravity Vidars (with tubes) it's about 28lbs


----------



## cr3anmachin3 (Feb 24, 2015)

MTBLoCo29 said:


> I haven't run commuter tires, but I have a 29+ wheelset that drops about 2lbs. Mine was a frame-up build, but nothing weight weenie: On-One seatpost and carbon fork, Hussefelt stem with Shimano PRO risers, Selle Italia Flite ti saddle, Ergon grips, SLX shifter/derailleur/cassette, Race Face Turbines with 30t, Avid BB7s. With the Mulefut/Nate combo, about 30lbs. With 36 hole Velocity Blunt 35s and Gravity Vidars (with tubes) it's about 28lbs
> 
> View attachment 996233


Thanks. I'm new to all the terminology but guessing Mulefut/Nate combo is tyres/rims? That sounds pretty decent. I run a 06' Hardrock converted for road with SLX/Deore kit and it comes in around 12.7kg (28lbs). I'm trying to find out what the stock On-One Fatty comes in at...especially the cheaper £799 Pink version WITHOUT the rims drilled. This is useful info though, cheers! What pedals u run? I just got a set of these and can't believe the weight/strength of them: Nukeproof Electron Evo Pedals | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

cr3anmachin3 said:


> Thanks. I'm new to all the terminology but guessing Mulefut/Nate combo is tyres/rims? That sounds pretty decent. I run a 06' Hardrock converted for road with SLX/Deore kit and it comes in around 12.7kg (28lbs). I'm trying to find out what the stock On-One Fatty comes in at...especially the cheaper £799 Pink version WITHOUT the rims drilled. This is useful info though, cheers! What pedals u run? I just got a set of these and can't believe the weight/strength of them: Nukeproof Electron Evo Pedals | Chain Reaction Cycles


Correct, the fat wheels I use are Mulefut rims with Novatec hubs, and Surly Nate tires set up tubeless. I run Crank Bro's Eggbeaters or Mallets. Looking at the build on the stock Fatty, I think the biggest weight differential would be the wheels/tires and steel fork. With 700c wheels and commuting style tires (35-40c), you would probably be close to the weight of the Specialized. I have to say, the extra $ to add the carbon fork is worth it. Considerably less expensive to get it as an upgrade now then trying to buy one later.


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## cr3anmachin3 (Feb 24, 2015)

MTBLoCo29 said:


> Correct, the fat wheels I use are Mulefut rims with Novatec hubs, and Surly Nate tires set up tubeless. I run Crank Bro's Eggbeaters or Mallets. Looking at the build on the stock Fatty, I think the biggest weight differential would be the wheels/tires and steel fork. With 700c wheels and commuting style tires (35-40c), you would probably be close to the weight of the Specialized. I have to say, the extra $ to add the carbon fork is worth it. Considerably less expensive to get it as an upgrade now then trying to buy one later.


Yep was wondering if the carbon fork was worth it. The stock Pink Fatty comes in at £900 with the carbon fork (or £800 without) but I'm stuck with a PINK stem (saddle and wheels can be changed in On-One's build config). Pink stem is no biggy as I can swap out with a AKA one I have, but then for £999 I could just get the standard Fatty with carbon fork. It is a pity that my employer does not do the Bike to Work Scheme (up to £1000) as if they did I would be jumping on this like crazy!


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

I was just looking at the standard Fatty as well. Now that the include the carbon, it doesn't seem worth the trouble to get the pink model and then upgrade for a relatively small price difference. Prior to getting the On-One frame, I had purchased an inexpensive fatbike to test the waters (about $400 less than the complete Fatty). I wound up replacing the majority of parts over the first year, some new, some from my parts bin. Finally moved all the upgraded parts to the new Fatty frame. The brake levers are the only stock parts left from the original bike. Would have been cheaper in the long run to save up longer....


----------



## rug (Apr 25, 2015)

Anyone knows if 

1) the Fun Fatty 24" uses the same hubs as the 26" inches normal Fatty?
2) same headsets (same headtube dimensions i.e. 44-49?
3) same bottom bracket type and length?
4) spare hanger for the 24" Fatty - V1 or V2?
4) weight of a stock Fun Fatty 24" complete bike
5) any other tyre options for the 24" beside the vee rubber(they only have 1 option on the site), the tyre does not look as if it would do well on exposed roots and damp rocks

6) Lastly, any feedback on how the 24" Fun Fatty rides would be great. I ride full suspension and I am really hoping the tyres will act like a full suspension bike, it will be a costly mistake if not.

Thanks for your patience. No much luck getting email replies from on one it seems


----------



## pharcyde (Aug 30, 2008)

rug said:


> Anyone knows if
> 
> 1) the Fun Fatty 24" uses the same hubs as the 26" inches normal Fatty?
> 2) same headsets (same headtube dimensions i.e. 44-49?
> ...


1) same hubs, 135fr 170r both QR
2) same headsets, use the smoothie mixer for best results.
3) same BB, standard 100mm fatbike.
4) same hanger
4) weight guessing 14kgs
5) does ANY tyre fat or skinny do well on roots ad damp rocks. The Floater and VEERubbers do a great job in all conditions.
6) fat tyre bikes feel NOTHING LIKE a dually, they arent a dually SO you need to end the comparo RIGHT there. They ride like no other bike you have ridden. they are bouncey (if you cant SPIN properly and stomp every pedal). The fat tyres have NO rebound like a shock so prepare for the bounce. It will take you at least 4-5 rides to really com to terms with this. I promise you. It will take another 4-5 rides to work out the best air pressure for you and on what types of terrain. sand will be lower and trail will be higher.

ANOTHER THING FOR NEW ONONE FATTY BUYERS TO BE AWARE OF ....

On-One 'Fatty' Fat Bike | On - One

This bike in the above link is the ONLY bike that currently offers the new frame design features listed a few pages back. It isnt listed as a V2 frame but when you look at the SRAM X01 build package it uses the OLD stock frame with Post ti IS mount rear brake and smaller (weaker) seat tube. Its great that they now offer all complete bikes with the carbon fork but please be AWARE that there are now BIG diferences between the V1/V2 frame designs.

Interestingly the 24" Baby Fatty has the new rear brake mount and better seatmast design too.


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## BroJangles (Aug 25, 2014)

Anyone running this as a single speed? Can you use a 135mm rear hub with spacers or does it warrant a dedicated 170 hub?


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

BroJangles said:


> Anyone running this as a single speed? Can you use a 135mm rear hub with spacers or does it warrant a dedicated 170 hub?


Yes it would require a dedicated 170mm QR hub. You'd need some funky ass spacers to get 135mm QR to get the disk mounts to line up and your chain line would be worth squat. 
As for single speed ? You'd be fine I suppose but you'd need the "fake derailleur" type of tensioner to get the required chain tension as the drop-outs are vertical and not horizintal . 

HTH

Fat Biker


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## cr3anmachin3 (Feb 24, 2015)

pharcyde said:


> 1) same hubs, 135fr 170r both QR
> 2) same headsets, use the smoothie mixer for best results.
> 3) same BB, standard 100mm fatbike.
> 4) same hanger
> ...


Hi. Did I read this correctly...the MORE expensive SRAM X01 build comes with the older frame (that may or may not be prone to cracking) whereas the cheaper X5 £999 build (CBOOFATX52) comes with the newer/improved frame? 
I wanted to get a Fatty for a 100k Sportive I just did recently. I realise now that after doing it on a mountainbike against 700 or so roadies that may have been a bit of a stupid idea! I hear you can get slicks for them though and the course was relatively flat. Maybe next time.


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## cr3anmachin3 (Feb 24, 2015)

ah sorry...just clicked your thumbnail which has the detail and I was correct. Odd that they should ship the top end machine with the older frame design.


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## Lordie (Sep 27, 2005)

*on-one pearlwhite color code*

major scratches and major knicks and on-one paint job is rather thin so need to do some cover work?

anyone know the color code of the on-one pearl white so i can get some from the auto shop?

thanks in advance.


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## rug (Apr 25, 2015)

pharcyde said:


> 1) same hubs, 135fr 170r both QR
> 2) same headsets, use the smoothie mixer for best results.
> 3) same BB, standard 100mm fatbike.
> 4) same hanger
> ...


How I rep this guy? What a great dude with great patience to type a great reply! How do I rep him?


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Hit the star at the bottom of his post, in line with the reply button.

Tim


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## cr3anmachin3 (Feb 24, 2015)

Dammit! Why did I start looking at this thread. I have 4 and a half bikes lying around the apartment (2 are my girlfriends) and I really do NOT need another bike yet I just cannot stop staring at Fat Bikes and the Fatty in particular. I think Charlie the Bikemonger summed it up best when he wrote this. So true....

WARNING....
The 12 Stages of Fat Biking
By Charlie The Bikemonger

Fat Curious Phase: See pictures of fat bikes, which stimulate fatbike-brain-worms to niggle away at your brain until you just have to actually get a ride on one.
Discovery Phase: Throw your leg over a fatbike and be pleasantly surprised. This feeds the brainworm until its powerful enough to take control of your wallet.
Buying Phase: you now wont a fat bike
Disinformation Phase: Lying to your wife about the true cost of the fat bike phase: it’s ok we all do it.
Getting To Know You Phase... Get yourself stronger and proving that fat bikes are best by beating geared folk up and down hill.
Modification Phase: where you just have to tweak the spec for really specific condition, even though it will be fine without the mods. There is a sub-phase of 7.1 called “bloody purple anodising phase”, but we won’t go there.
Beard Phase: you will now have a beard.
One Love Phase... Ignore your other bikes
Evangelist Phase... Become a fat bike evangelist and bang on about it on internet forums. Get angry at people who refuse to accept your offer of a ride on your fat bike. Moan about how skinny tyres destroy the trails. Heckle people whose bikes make them look fat, rather than thin.
Crusading Phase. Take the fat bike battle to the normal bike heathens by racing fat bikes in normal races.
Sloppy Emulators Phase: complaint about all mainstream brands building fat bikes, all the new people... “They are nothing more than sloppy emulators at best, who are all these new people, they weren’t there when it was cool, he doesn’t even know what an endomorph is FFS”.
Getting Over It Phase: Get over it, and quietly ride your fatbike while quietly mumbling it isn’t like it used to be.


That lot can take ten years or ten weeks.


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## fatblockabody (Feb 17, 2014)

My 18" V2 Fatty should be delivered today. I'm pretty excited!

Can I see pictures of what frame bags you guys are using (inside the triangle)? Thanks!


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

fatblockabody said:


> My 18" V2 Fatty should be delivered today. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Can I see pictures of what frame bags you guys are using (inside the triangle)? Thanks!


Using the cheapo from Amazon. It's a tight fit, but works pretty well. 
Amazon.com : Ibera Bike Black Medium or Large Triangle Frame Bag - For Bike Tube Frame, Quick-Access : Sports & Outdoors


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

Iberia medium for me.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

*PSA - Fatty Skewers Cheap!*

If anyone would like a spare set of Fatty QR skewers, they're dirt cheap right now!

Front $3.80 Rear $4.55

On-One Quick Release Fat Bike Skewer | Planet X


----------



## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

I apologize for not reading more to find out myself, but need to decide soon as I have a chance to pickup a set of new tires.

Did anyone fit Snowshoe XL 4.8" studded tires on theirs yet? Do they fit, or what is the largest tire that fits with 2x drivetrain? Thanks.


----------



## SundayRiverRider (Oct 29, 2008)

I just ordered a medium On One Fatty frameset V2. Pretty excited. I have a Motobecane FB4 that I've used the last few seasons. I ended up upgrading a lot of stuff on it. I will now swap over a lot of that stuff to the new frameset, and plan on installing a Bluto. I will probably use the FB4 for the winter to get one more season out of it. Next spring I will complete the build and use it as my summer fattie. I think it will be awesome to have the Bluto. Will post pics of build as I go along.


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

SundayRiverRider said:


> I just ordered a medium On One Fatty frameset V2. Pretty excited. I have a Motobecane FB4 that I've used the last few seasons. I ended up upgrading a lot of stuff on it. I will now swap over a lot of that stuff to the new frameset, and plan on installing a Bluto. I will probably use the FB4 for the winter to get one more season out of it. Next spring I will complete the build and use it as my summer fattie. I think it will be awesome to have the Bluto. Will post pics of build as I go along.


That's exactly what I did but with a Minnesota 2.0. Brake levers and cables are the only original parts left.


----------



## HOSSinNH (Apr 26, 2013)

pharcyde said:


> THIS POST SHOULD ANSWER ALL THE CONCERNS ABOUT THE FRAME.
> 
> The V2/Series 2 frame has been significantly beefed up in ALL the effected areas. The geo is exactly the same and the new frame design is MUCH cleaner. Do yourself a favor a get on a Fatty, you wont be sorry!
> 
> FYI My black Fatty is for sale in Australia ONLY. PM me for details.


Yikes. Now I'm paranoid. V1 frame owner here. I've had it about a year and not put too many miles on it. Mostly all snow.

My biggest complaint so far is that I can't keep the rear wheel in the dropouts. Considering trying Hope or Salsa Skewers. Anyone have similar issues?

Thanks!


----------



## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

Check your axle. Could be longer than the thickness of your dropouts.


----------



## Got2Bike (Dec 11, 2014)

For anyone considering the Fatty, get one. It's the most fun bike I've ever owned. Mine is a V2, which I have slightly customized. (Built from the ground up) My next step will be to build a 27.5+ wheelset. I have a spare wheelset, and will use hubs to lace them on a set of WTB Scraper rims. Has anyone build it as a 27.5+?


----------



## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Awesome, I just got one for myself used, most likely a V1 with full XT build and BB7's, but still stock wheels and tires, so that is something I will look into upgrading eventually. Never knew there is a blue one available. Was that custom? Definitely interested in how the 27.5+ will turn out for you.


----------



## Got2Bike (Dec 11, 2014)

It is a custom powder coat. Candy Blue with Silver Vein. The silver vein adds texture. On One decals from ebay.


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

Got2Bike said:


> View attachment 1014360
> 
> For anyone considering the Fatty, get one. It's the most fun bike I've ever owned. Mine is a V2, which I have slightly customized. (Built from the ground up) My next step will be to build a 27.5+ wheelset. I have a spare wheelset, and will use hubs to lace them on a set of WTB Scraper rims. Has anyone build it as a 27.5+?


I've seen at least one guy on one of the Facebook groups (forget which) that built a a 27.5+ with Bluto. I already had the 29+ wheels when I got the Fatty frame. Back wheel is pretty close, the 27.5 will be a better fit.


----------



## Got2Bike (Dec 11, 2014)

I saw your post on the 29+. In fact, that's why I'm going with the 27.5. Thanks!


----------



## blowery (Aug 28, 2014)

Agreed, great bike. Upgraded from a Framed 2.0. I like the way it handles MUCH better.


----------



## bvfromru (Sep 27, 2012)

MTBLoCo29 said:


> I've seen at least one guy on one of the Facebook groups (forget which) that built a a 27.5+ with Bluto. I already had the 29+ wheels when I got the Fatty frame. Back wheel is pretty close, the 27.5 will be a better fit.


MTBLoCo29, Could you please measure bead to bead widht of Gravity Vidars? Thanks!


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

bvfromru said:


> MTBLoCo29, Could you please measure bead to bead widht of Gravity Vidars? Thanks!


Do you mean the sidewall to sidewall width? Bead to bead will be dependent on the rim width.


----------



## Welnic (Feb 6, 2013)

MTBLoCo29 said:


> Do you mean the sidewall to sidewall width? Bead to bead will be dependent on the rim width.


Bead to bead means that you lay the bare tire flat and measure along the tire from one bead to the other. No rim involved. I think what you are thinking of would be rim width.


----------



## bvfromru (Sep 27, 2012)

Yeah, something like this.










29+ | FAT-BIKE.COM they often use this parameter in descriptions of tire true size.


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

bvfromru said:


> MTBLoCo29, Could you please measure bead to bead widht of Gravity Vidars? Thanks!


Wasn't planning on having the tires off any time soon, but I found this:

1st Look Gravity Vidar 29 x 3 Tire |

There's also a link in the above article with weights and measurements of some other + tires.

The Plus Bikes Tire Data Sheet |


----------



## bvfromru (Sep 27, 2012)

*MTBLoCo29*, thanks man! Extremely useful! :thumbsup:


----------



## Antonio3z (Oct 22, 2014)

tfinator said:


> Go 10 posts back. Someone asked about a 4.8. The answer was no.


Nope Guys the answer is yes, the ChaoYang 4.9 is a pretty good tyre, it's 30 inches high and it just fit the rear frame (less than 2mm from the lower frame reinforcement) I'm having a lot of fun on these.









I didn't brake the frame yet, could it be because I'm using a carbon seat tube?


----------



## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

Antonio3z said:


> Nope Guys the answer is yes, the ChaoYang 4.9 is a pretty good tyre, it's 30 inches high and it just fit the rear frame (less than 2mm from the lower frame reinforcement) I'm having a lot of fun on these.
> 
> View attachment 1021062
> 
> ...


That's great! Still waiting on them JJs to try out on mine!


----------



## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Awesome, is that on 2x10? I was planning to get studded Snowshoe XL's 4.8, but thought they would not fit.


----------



## blowery (Aug 28, 2014)

Antonio3z said:


> Nope Guys the answer is yes, the ChaoYang 4.9 is a pretty good tyre, it's 30 inches high and it just fit the rear frame (less than 2mm from the lower frame reinforcement) I'm having a lot of fun on these.
> 
> View attachment 1021062
> 
> ...


Can you get closer pictures of the clearance of tires around the frame and chain.

Is your frame a V1 or V2?


----------



## bvfromru (Sep 27, 2012)

*Antonio3z*, could you please tell us full tyre name and where did you buy it?
I can see "Big Daddy" on the photo, but i can't find Big Daddy 4,9 anywhere in the internet..


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

bvfromru said:


> *Antonio3z*, could you please tell us full tyre name and where did you buy it?
> I can see "Big Daddy" on the photo, but i can't find Big Daddy 4,9 anywhere in the internet..


I think it might be this tyre .

The "Big Daddy" is the name that ChaoYang seems to be giving a range of fat bike tyres . They all appear to have a similar tread pattern just in different sizes (here), hence the same name I suppose.

Reasonably priced but a touch on the heavy side for a folding tyre IMO (although taking the actual size into account probably not so much LOL)

Fat Biker


----------



## bvfromru (Sep 27, 2012)

Thanks, man! *Antonio3z*, we need more photos!


----------



## fatblockabody (Feb 17, 2014)

I see there has been some back and forth on larger tires fitting and it's not really clear. Has anyone been able to fit a 4.8 knard front or rear or both on a V2 fatty with 80mm rims? I'm 1x.

It seems as though we need to start a matrix or list of wheel/tire/drivetrain combinations that fit on these bikes. It also seems like the chainstay bridge is the limiting factor in fitting a large tire in the rear?


----------



## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

about to pull the trigger on the V2 they have left as a bare frame in the 18" size. Trying to keep this a low budget build and already have all parts with the exception of the frame, fork and bars. 

Any thoughts on the steel vs. carbon fork? The carbon puts me out of budget but more importantly which fork has better tire clearance? The 1.5 pound weight savings is nice, but I rather be able to run larger tires in the future. 

Also should I go longer than 720mm for the bars? I am 5'9".


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

qclabrat said:


> about to pull the trigger on the V2 they have left as a bare frame in the 18" size. Trying to keep this a low budget build and already have all parts with the exception of the frame, fork and bars.
> 
> Any thoughts on the steel vs. carbon fork? The carbon puts me out of budget but more importantly which fork has better tire clearance? The 1.5 pound weight savings is nice, but I rather be able to run larger tires in the future.
> 
> Also should I go longer than 720mm for the bars? I am 5'9".


I've seen pics of a Bud up front on both steel and carbon fork. I love my carbon fatty fork, but two things to consider if you are building frame up and they may depend on the wheels you have: 
1- What front hub are you running currently? The fatty uses the 135QR with rear disk spacing like Surly, most newer hubs are using the front disk spacing. It's much easier to make a rear spaced hub fit a front spaced fork than the other way around. Found that out the hard way. 
2- If you are thinking of putting a Bluto on in the future, I would think about getting a rigid 150x15 through axle fork and relacing a matching hub. That way you would have an easy swap when the budget allowed for the squish fork.

As for bars, I have 710 risers right now and have had 720 flats too. I'm happy with both of them. Plenty of leverage for the big tires, but not unmanageable in tight singletrack.

Pic shows HuDu on 80mm rims for an idea of how much more room there is for fatter tires on the carbon.


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

qclabrat said:


> about to pull the trigger on the V2 they have left as a bare frame in the 18" size. Trying to keep this a low budget build and already have all parts with the exception of the frame, fork and bars.
> 
> Any thoughts on the steel vs. carbon fork? The carbon puts me out of budget but more importantly which fork has better tire clearance? The 1.5 pound weight savings is nice, but I rather be able to run larger tires in the future.
> 
> Also should I go longer than 720mm for the bars? I am 5'9".


If you go longer on the bars you can chop them down if they're too wide. If you go 720mm and they're not wide enough you'll need to buy wider bars (blowing the budget ?). Before you chop the bars just slide the controls and grips in first for a ride or two to test the width and see what feels better.

I personally haven't noticed any difference in clearance between the carbon and steel fork at the sides. The crown has maybe a touch more , although I've not measured them, just eyeballed. But if you can spring for the carbons do it. It's well worth the weight reduction. You'll be glad you did.

Speaking of weight reduction try and go tubeless. One of the best riding improvements for the Fatty you can do.

As far as tyre clearance goes I don't believe there's any difference in clearance between V1 and V2 frames. If there is it's going to be a matter of MM's if that.

The V1 frame I have has what I would call acceptable clearance for a genuine 4" wide tyre if riding in muddy conditions (UK - permanently rains  ). Mine is the 2x set up and is quite happy use the chain to remove most of the gloop from the rear tyre in the lowest gear.

For this reason I personally wouldn't want to go much, if at all wider than the standard floaters. It all depends on the conditions you ride in I suppose. Snow you could go a touch wider but its the chain stays not the bridge that is the limiting factor to tyre width. The only time I've heard of the bridge being the problem before the stays was for the guy who ran 29+ wheels. And the hairs on top of the tread were buzzing the bridge.

It is possible to run wider but not by much even 1x if you're riding in anything other than sand or snow. It all depends on what you're happy with clearance wise. Some folks think 2-3 mm is fine. Here in the UK not so much. YMMV.

HTH ? 

Fat Biker


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

Yeah, that's me with the 29+ wheels. Beer can guard has worked so far to protect the frame. Good point on the bars. You can always make them narrower, many bars have the tic marks etched into the end to make cutting easier. Try the controls in a few positions and see what's comfortable.


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

MTBLoCo29 said:


> I've seen pics of a Bud up front on both steel and carbon fork. I love my carbon fatty fork, but two things to consider if you are building frame up and they may depend on the wheels you have:
> 1- What front hub are you running currently? The fatty uses the 135QR with rear disk spacing like Surly, most newer hubs are using the front disk spacing. It's much easier to make a rear spaced hub fit a front spaced fork than the other way around. Found that out the hard way.
> 2- If you are thinking of putting a Bluto on in the future, I would think about getting a rigid 150x15 through axle fork and relacing a matching hub. That way you would have an easy swap when the budget allowed for the squish fork.
> 
> ...


 thanks all for the quick replies, but I do have a question on the rear hub configuration. I wasn't aware it is dished like a Surly. does it mean that all Surly's have that odd dishing like the 135mm Pug rear wheel? I'll need to read up on what that means, if that's the case, either I'll need the wheel rebuilt or go with another frame choice


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

On-One Fatty frames are symmetrical hence the wheel will be standard build too not some funky offset dish. 


Fat Biker


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

qclabrat said:


> thanks all for the quick replies, but I do have a question on the rear hub configuration. I wasn't aware it is dished like a Surly. does it mean that all Surly's have that odd dishing like the 135mm Pug rear wheel? I'll need to read up on what that means, if that's the case, either I'll need the wheel rebuilt or go with another frame choice


No, the rear is a 170 symmetrical with QR. The front is symmetrical 135. The difference is how the disc is spaced relative to the fork blade. On a rear spaced 135 hub, the disc is 5mm further inboard on the hub, closer to the spokes (just like on a standard rear wheel). Some front hubs have this same spacing. Surly did this so you could swap front and rear wheels in an emergency. A front spaced 135 hub has the disc further outboard, toward the fork leg. This is because there is no gear cluster to offset, so the flanges can be equidistant allowing for a stronger symmetrical wheel. So if you have a front spaced hub and try to mount it onto rear spaced forks (like Surly or On-One), the brake caliper won't be centered over the rotor, and in some case will hit the spokes. Hub, Fork, and Disc Brake Compatibility | Spews | The Information Hole | Surly Bikes

Where are the wheels coming from? That will determine whether or not they will be a direct fit. Any symmetrical 170 rear will work. Up front it needs to be a symmetrical 135 with rear disc spacing if you are using either On-One fork. If your current wheels have a front spaced 135, you will need to look for a different fork, like the Carver O'beast.


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

qclabrat said:


> thanks all for the quick replies, but I do have a question on the rear hub configuration. I wasn't aware it is dished like a Surly. does it mean that all Surly's have that odd dishing like the 135mm Pug rear wheel? I'll need to read up on what that means, if that's the case, either I'll need the wheel rebuilt or go with another frame choice


A picture's worth a 1000 words, so maybe this is a better illustration of the disc spacing issue. There are spacers for rear spaced hubs that move the disc closer to the fork, but it doesn't work the other way. I had to modify the caliper adapter to move it to the right 5mm so my rotor would line up on the On-One fork (I had front spaced hubs).


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## Welnic (Feb 6, 2013)

qclabrat said:


> ...
> 
> Also should I go longer than 720mm for the bars? I am 5'9".


Looks like you're getting good advice on the front fork brake rotor spacing issue.

I don't know exactly what width of bars you should use, but I would recommend going wider than what you are used to. I have wider bars on my fat bike than my normal mountain bike and I think that works pretty well for me. I haven't felt a big need to go wider on my normal bike and I wouldn't want to go any narrower on my fat bike. If you are totally sure that you like the width on your normal mountain bike I would go 40mm wider. If you haven't explored really wide bars then I would go 80mm wider and ride it like that for a while and then cut them down if you want to. If you have lock-on grips then you can move them in and try them before you cut your handlebars.


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

more good stuff from everyone, the rear will be 170mm symmetrical
the parts are coming from a Moto Boris Bluto, so the front wheel is 150mm thru axle
Save up to 60% off new Rockshox Bluto Fork Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Boris X9 SRAM

looks like I'll need a 150 thru axle fork, is the Fatty headtube tapered? i think 150 forks are easier to find tapered


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

qclabrat said:


> more good stuff from everyone, the rear will be 170mm symmetrical
> the parts are coming from a Moto Boris Bluto, so the front wheel is 150mm thru axle
> Save up to 60% off new Rockshox Bluto Fork Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Boris X9 SRAM
> 
> looks like I'll need a 150 thru axle fork, is the Fatty headtube tapered? i think 150 forks are easier to find tapered


Yup Fatties are tapered headtube. 
Fork ? Best / cheapest (depending on your viewpoint) to keep within budget would be Chinese carbon . 
Most vendors have a 150mm spaced tapered carbon fork in their catalogue these days. If not just fire an email off to the vendor of your choice and they'll usually be able to supply one. Some people have a preference as to which vendor they prefer. I find it all a much of a muchness. They all seem to pee in the same pot as it were and non is particularly better than the other as regards to quality/delivery times IME.

Just remember most Chinese forks are 46mm(ish) trail offset as opposed to the On-One forks being 51mm offset. Which will affect the steering response slightly. But TBH I doubt you would notice a difference unless you jumped off one and straight in the other. Even so I thought it worth mentioning just for completeness.

Fat Biker

P.S. Don't forget you'll need a different headset than the one that's on the Boris. Boris appears to be I.S. and the Fatty is E.C. You can't go wrong with the Smoothy Mixer one from On-One to be fair. Not the lightest by far but lasts well enough IME.


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

qclabrat said:


> more good stuff from everyone, the rear will be 170mm symmetrical
> the parts are coming from a Moto Boris Bluto, so the front wheel is 150mm thru axle
> Save up to 60% off new Rockshox Bluto Fork Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Boris X9 SRAM
> 
> looks like I'll need a 150 thru axle fork, is the Fatty headtube tapered? i think 150 forks are easier to find tapered


Framed Bikes has a 150x15 carbon fork, tapered head tube. Available in white to match the Fatty. Better quality than the no-name China carbon.

On Sale Alaskan Carbon Fat Bike Fork


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

Or you might like to do some research and find out where the "named" carbon forks come from and save yourself a bunch o' cash 

$299 on sale vs $130 - $150 retail for a very similar product hmmmn. I know where my cash would be spent. 

Option 1

Option 2

Fat Biker


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

Fat Biker said:


> Or you might like to do some research and find out where the "named" carbon forks come from and save yourself a bunch o' cash
> 
> $299 on sale vs $130 - $150 retail for a very similar product hmmmn. I know where my cash would be spent.
> 
> ...


I know a lot of branded items come out of the same factories, I just feel more comfortable dealing with known quantity. I find it easier to deal with a company here in the US if there is any kind of warranty issue. Also, with so many low priced options that look similar, it's hard to know which are high quality vs. cheap knockoffs. One would hope that a company putting their name on a product would vet said product before deciding on a vendor. There is also real world testing, as you can find reviews from customers. I've seen some very high quality carbon come from these ebay and alibbaba companies, but also some horror stories. I'll pay a little more for peace of mind, especially regarding carbon forks or handlebars which can be catastrophic if they fail. Believe me, I'm a cheapskate, but sometimes you can go too cheap. Then you end up buying stuff twice, which isn't really saving you any money. Like Fat Biker said, make sure you do as much research as you can before going with the no-names.


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

more questions, which isn't always to the easiest to find, though would have expected to find it easily, upfront apologies from a novice

what's the widest (patch contact) tire I can get using an 80mm rim for the rear. Can't always go by tire size, as it's not reliable. for example will Vee Showshoe XL squeeze in the back, guessing no, especially if running at low pressures


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

got the answer after rereading this thread a few times, looks like Dozer in back and Snowshoe XL front should work, will start with Floaters this winter for now, don't want to get spoiled too quick, and switch back to the V8's 120tpi in the summer, still haven't pulled the trigger yet on the Fatty V2, but any day now, nothing going on CyberMonday on PlanetX so there's no rush at this point except impatience. Have all other parts ready except the frame and fork.


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## rollo (Mar 27, 2004)

@qclabrat

Be aware that the US based PlanetX location was recently destroyed in a fire. I don't know how this impacts website orders, but Vince (who posts here frequently) from PlanetX will definitely have his hands full in the next few weeks/months.

Oakridge fire destroys headquarters of bike company with Portland roots - BikePortland.org


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

rollo said:


> @qclabrat
> 
> Be aware that the US based PlanetX location was recently destroyed in a fire. I don't know how this impacts website orders, but Vince (who posts here frequently) from PlanetX will definitely have his hands full in the next few weeks/months.
> 
> Oakridge fire destroys headquarters of bike company with Portland roots - BikePortland.org


I ordered some handlebars and brake pads last week, they were here by Friday afternoon. Everything is shipping out of England, so freight was around $20. BTW, took the first ride with the Fleegle bars, like them so far. 720mm width, 15 degree sweep, 0 rise. Downside is that they only have 25.4 diameter. Upside, I have plenty of old stems and the bar was $7.


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

rollo said:


> @qclabrat
> 
> Be aware that the US based PlanetX location was recently destroyed in a fire. I don't know how this impacts website orders, but Vince (who posts here frequently) from PlanetX will definitely have his hands full in the next few weeks/months.
> 
> Oakridge fire destroys headquarters of bike company with Portland roots - BikePortland.org


yep, what @mtbLoco29 said, they changed to UK only warehouse a while back, not sure why, but shipping charges are pretty high due to air freight


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

MTBLoCo29 said:


> I ordered some handlebars and brake pads last week, they were here by Friday afternoon. Everything is shipping out of England, so freight was around $20. BTW, took the first ride with the Fleegle bars, like them so far. 720mm width, 15 degree sweep, 0 rise. Downside is that they only have 25.4 diameter. Upside, I have plenty of old stems and the bar was $7.
> 
> View attachment 1032581
> View attachment 1032582


nice looking ride, is that the V2 version? anyone know if the seat post diameter is 31.8mm and seat tube collar 34.9mm?

Also not crazy with the carbon fork with straight steerer. I don't understand why On-One would use a straight steerer even though the Fatty has a tapered headtube. Any able to rationalize that one? I'm think of getting a Specialized Fatboy carbon fork locally for the same price as the On-One fork but is instead tapered


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

qclabrat said:


> Also not crazy with the carbon fork with straight steerer. I don't understand why On-One would use a straight steerer even though the Fatty has a tapered headtube. Any able to rationalize that one?


I was told by Brant personally (designer at On-One at the time) it was for compatibility sake. So you could use the fork in other frames than the Fatty. That's great but the crown of the fork is kinda fat so the chances of it looking good on other frames are slim at best. And the ones that it would look good on probably have a tapered headtube for tapered forks anyway. Seemed like marketing waffle at the time. Guess what ? It still does.

I too would prefer a tapered steerer tube on the fork too.

If nothing else, just for peace of mind.

1 1/8 straight is probably plenty strong enough.

Fat Biker


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## blowery (Aug 28, 2014)

qclabrat said:


> nice looking ride, is that the V2 version? anyone know if the seat post diameter is 31.8mm and seat tube collar 34.9mm?
> 
> Also not crazy with the carbon fork with straight steerer. I don't understand why On-One would use a straight steerer even though the Fatty has a tapered headtube. Any able to rationalize that one? I'm think of getting a Specialized Fatboy carbon fork locally for the same price as the On-One fork but is instead tapered


Seat post is 31.6, I used a salsa 35mm flip lock, and 31.6mm Thomson Elite 410mm


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

Fat Biker said:


> P.S. Don't forget you'll need a different headset than the one that's on the Boris. Boris appears to be I.S. and the Fatty is E.C. You can't go wrong with the Smoothy Mixer one from On-One to be fair. Not the lightest by far but lasts well enough IME.


interestingly On-One suggested getting the Orbit C-40 ACB which is an integrated headset, even stranger, I was not able find the same one with 9mm stack from other websites or the FSA website

Which headset do you have installed? were there changes to the headtube of V2 of the frame?


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

qclabrat said:


> interestingly On-One suggested getting the Orbit C-40 ACB which is an integrated headset, even stranger, I was not able find the same one with 9mm stack from other websites or the FSA website
> 
> Which headset do you have installed? were there changes to the headtube of V2 of the frame?


I have the Smoothy Mixer heaset from On-One on a V1 frame. They're heavy (as much as a headset can be/for what it is) but durable. Never had to use anything else. 
I don't think there's been any changes to the headtube but I could be wrong. 
HTH ?

Fat Biker


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## blowery (Aug 28, 2014)

I'm running a Cane Creek 44ZS/49EC and it works great with my Lefty.


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

i have a decision I not able to easily figure out, can you weigh in on the two options?

1) buy a new budget 150mm carbon fork for the front wheel I already have with 15mm thru axle

2) buy a used 2014 Specialized Fatboy carbon fork which is 135mm, comes with the matching hub as the owner upgrades to a Bluto. However this will require me to rebuild the wheel.

btw, my wheels are the cheapo Weinmann builds off of a Boris and rims are 80mm


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

qclabrat said:


> i have a decision I not able to easily figure out, can you weigh in on the two options?
> 
> 1) buy a new budget 150mm carbon fork for the front wheel I already have with 15mm thru axle
> 
> ...


For me it would be a no-brainer.

Cheap fork that fits what you already have. That way you're saving on the build of a wheel at least if not spokes too . Plus that money could go towards an RCT3 cartridge if your Bluto doesn't already have one. Or some bling carbon hoops.

The possibilities are endless.

Fat Biker


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

just ordered the Fatty v2 and should be delivered next week, time to ship off some bikes so the spouse doesn't get pissed with another bike

have everything except a fork, still undecided, front wheel is 150mm TA so limited with choices. Is there a difference between a 483 vs 468 axle to crown fork, I know it's 15mm, but what should I except the ride to feel like? I plan to use a 50mm stem and 740mm bars


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

qclabrat said:


> just ordered the Fatty v2 and should be delivered next week, time to ship off some bikes so the spouse doesn't get pissed with another bike
> 
> have everything except a fork, still undecided, front wheel is 150mm TA so limited with choices. Is there a difference between a 483 vs 468 axle to crown fork, I know it's 15mm, but what should I except the ride to feel like? I plan to use a 50mm stem and 740mm bars[/QUOTE
> 
> The shorter fork will have a steeper head angle for quicker steering. Longer will give a slacker HA for more stability at speed. The Fatty was designed to be run a slack HA with short stem/wide bars. Carver and Framed make relatively inexpensive 150 TA forks. There's also a host of Chinese carbon forks out there for even less. I would go with a fork vs a new wheel/hub.


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## fatblockabody (Feb 17, 2014)

Just an FYI for anyone wanting to try an Absolute Black Oval C/R on their fatty, the bottom bracket on the drive side will need to be spaced out one extra spacer to clear the chainstay (This is with the 32 tooth C/R).

I'm running a Race Face crankset and external BB.


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

just running down some bigger tire options for the rear, here's what I believe has been tested. Caveat, most don't mention rim width or 1x or 2x drivetrain

Yes:
Snowshoe (small one)
Bulldozer
BFL
Dillinger 4/5 (even a studded 5)
ChaoYang 4.9 (Big Daddy)
Lou/Bud (1x only)

wait to hear:
Snowshoe XL
Jumbo Jim

No way:
Snowshoe 2XL


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## Mamba29er (Aug 30, 2011)

Bud & Lou fit. No issue up front. Rear is tight, slight chain rub when running 1x. No way on a 2x. I run a D5 currently on a rolling Darryl, plenty of room. The 45nrth studs would be fine, Kold Cutters no way.


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## blowery (Aug 28, 2014)

Mamba29er said:


> Bud & Lou fit. No issue up front. Rear is tight, slight chain rub when running 1x. No way on a 2x. I run a D5 currently on a rolling Darryl, plenty of room. The 45nrth studs would be fine, Kold Cutters no way.


Do you have pictures of this and the clearance?


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

Mamba29er said:


> Bud & Lou fit. No issue up front. Rear is tight, slight chain rub when running 1x. No way on a 2x. I run a D5 currently on a rolling Darryl, plenty of room. The 45nrth studs would be fine, Kold Cutters no way.


good to know I'll update, 
I have a 150mm 9zero7 fork and plans are to eventually go to a Vee 2xl in front and XL in the rear, though no one seems to have confirmed they fit

do you have a v1 or v2 frame? wondering if the beefer downtube changed anything in the rear


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## Mamba29er (Aug 30, 2011)

Sorry I don't have pics of the Bud/Lou combo, that was my neighbors set up. I run the D 5's which I do have pics of, not that that helps.


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

Mamba29er said:


> Sorry I don't have pics of the Bud/Lou combo, that was my neighbors set up. I run the D 5's which I do have pics of, not that that helps.
> 
> View attachment 1037385
> 
> View attachment 1037386


that seems kind of tight, don't you get rub at low pressures and some peanut butter mud or snow would surely get the rear mucked up


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## Mamba29er (Aug 30, 2011)

Nope not at all. Plenty of clearance, zero rub at any PSI.


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## RAUL77 (Jan 12, 2016)

1. On One Fat Bike Frame - From April 2013 to October 2014 
















Warranty and Replacement 

2 On One Fat Bike Frame - Since February 2015 for December 2015 
















Now I have two cracked frame 








Waiting for an answer Warranty and Replacement.
Sorry for my English.


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## blowery (Aug 28, 2014)

Wow, are those V1 or V2 frames? I don't think I have seen a V2 frame crack.


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

RAUL77 said:


> 1. On One Fat Bike Frame - From April 2013 to October 2014
> View attachment 1042101
> 
> 
> ...


can you tell us how far the seatpost when in for each? I've mostly seen cracks under the support


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

Also curious if the second frame is V1 or V2. Also, Med or Large?


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## Mamba29er (Aug 30, 2011)

Based upon the dates given the first frame has to be a V1 frame. But the second frame could be either. I sincerely hope it isn't a V2. Oh man....


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Wow, that is a nasty crack......too bad, honestly, I have seen only a handful of cracked frames in person bu 2 of them were On Ones......really blows, they seem like they can be cool rigs.....Hopefully they stand behind the frame


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## ultraspontane (May 26, 2011)

Whatever happened to that rad steel truss frame fatbike that was posted on ON-ONE's social media pages? If I remember correctly it was orange, and looked beyond awesome. I like the Fatty, but prefer steel.

EDIT: Found it. This bad mofo:









I'd buy that in a second.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

That does look pretty cool........slap a bluto on there and I'd like it as well.......until it cracked.....lol

Like that orange frame though, the shape......would look great in white or deep blue.......


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## ultraspontane (May 26, 2011)

Well, that image is over a year old, so I wonder what happened.


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## pharcyde (Aug 30, 2008)

Both frames that are cracked are V1.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

I cracked a frame (not an on-one) like that due to running too much exposed seatpost. While it was within the minimum insertion, that only keeps the post from not failing, in the end I was simply riding a bike that was too small.


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## RAUL77 (Jan 12, 2016)

blowery said:


> Wow, are those V1 or V2 frames? I don't think I have seen a V2 frame crack.


V1


qclabrat said:


> can you tell us how far the seatpost when in for each? I've mostly seen cracks under the support


160 mm (6,3 inch)


MTBLoCo29 said:


> Also curious if the second frame is V1 or V2. Also, Med or Large?


V1, both frame 20 inch


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## pharcyde (Aug 30, 2008)

qclabrat said:


> can you tell us how far the seatpost when in for each? I've mostly seen cracks under the support


Notice 2 different locations for the cracks on each frame!! Im suss on the seatpost depth too.

V2 has no such issues. Ive had mine for 12months now.


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## Ol Bromy (Feb 6, 2009)

RAUL77 said:


> V1
> 
> 160 mm (6,3 inch)
> 
> V1, both frame 20 inch


I wonder if a dropper would help as your culo would be up off the saddle while rolling through the chunder? Seems like it wouldn't have cracked that high up with 6.3" of post inserted. You sure it didn't crack right at the bottom of your post?


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

ultraspontane said:


> Whatever happened to that rad steel truss frame fatbike that was posted on ON-ONE's social media pages? If I remember correctly it was orange, and looked beyond awesome. I like the Fatty, but prefer steel.
> 
> EDIT: Found it. This bad mofo:
> 
> ...


I was really hoping to see this bad boy too, I'm steel guy. It would look great next to my 456 Evo. Had an Al 29er, sold it after 5 rides to get a steel.. Only other Al MTBs I've had were full sus.


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

pharcyde said:


> Notice 2 different locations for the cracks on each frame!! Im suss on the seatpost depth too.
> 
> V2 has no such issues. Ive had mine for 12months now.


One of the main reasons for the V2 being in existence was to beef up the seat tube to remedy the cracking issue in the locations Raul77 has shown. I believe it was a combination of poor seat tube internal diameter tolerance and a weakening of the alloy due to the welding process . 
Hence I am lead to believe that the V2 has a thicker seat tube wall to alleviate these symptoms. There may also be entirely different reasons I am not aware of though.

Fat Biker


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

nothing to see here folks, V2 is good
disperse and carry on


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## Ol Bromy (Feb 6, 2009)

Glad to hear it


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Got2Bike said:


> View attachment 1014360
> 
> For anyone considering the Fatty, get one. It's the most fun bike I've ever owned. Mine is a V2, which I have slightly customized. (Built from the ground up) My next step will be to build a 27.5+ wheelset. I have a spare wheelset, and will use hubs to lace them on a set of WTB Scraper rims. Has anyone build it as a 27.5+?


Did you ever end up finishing this 27.5+ project on the Fatty?


----------



## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

I finally got some 4.8" Jumbo Jims Lite Skins. Fit fine on the original rims & running 1x10 with tubes for now. At least 1/4" clearance on the chain.


----------



## HypnoT0AD (Nov 21, 2013)

For those of you running a 1x10 setup, whats the largest ring you've used on the fron with a good chainline?

Right now I'm running a 30t on the front and the chain is straight when on the 6th cog on the back, and I want to try an oval ring but I don't want it to foul the frame.


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## Estuche (Apr 18, 2010)

Double post


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## Estuche (Apr 18, 2010)

deuxdiesel said:


> Not a chance. The Knard 3.0 on a R/H hits the chainstay bridge. No amount of trimming will get it to fit.


Speaking of clearance, can someone please measure the chainstays' width for the fatty v2 frame? I am trying to measure crank arm clearance. Anyone??
View attachment 1046711


----------



## Ol Bromy (Feb 6, 2009)

Estuche said:


> Speaking of clearance, can someone please measure the chainstays' width for the fatty v2 frame? I am trying to measure crank arm clearance. Anyone??
> View attachment 1046711


5-7/8" on my V2 from outside to outside of chainstays measured at the spot on the stays where horizontal crank arms rest. Good luck on your build!


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## Estuche (Apr 18, 2010)

Ol' Bromy said:


> 5-7/8" on my V2 from outside to outside of chainstays measured at the spot on the stays where horizontal crank arms rest. Good luck on your build!


Thanks, much appreciated!!


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## blowery (Aug 28, 2014)

Tunalic said:


> I finally got some 4.8" Jumbo Jims Lite Skins. Fit fine on the original rims & running 1x10 with tubes for now. At least 1/4" clearance on the chain.


Awesome, looking at these for my next tires. Glad to see they fit the rear.


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

blowery said:


> Awesome, looking at these for my next tires. Glad to see they fit the rear.


I had a blast Saturday doing 22 miles on my beaches. I think I will try tubeless out soon.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Tunalic said:


> I finally got some 4.8" Jumbo Jims Lite Skins. Fit fine on the original rims & running 1x10 with tubes for now. At least 1/4" clearance on the chain.


What pedals are those?

Good info. I'm still on 2x10, but looks like once I go 1x I should be able to fit Flowbeist/Dunderbeist or VanHelgas or Dillinger 5's without issues.


----------



## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

kryten said:


> What pedals are those?
> 
> Good info. I'm still on 2x10, but looks like once I go 1x I should be able to fit Flowbeist/Dunderbeist or VanHelgas or Dillinger 5's without issues.


Wellgo MG-1s


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Tunalic said:


> Wellgo MG-1s


Thanks, they seem like a perfect color match.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

MTBLoCo29 said:


> Using the cheapo from Amazon. It's a tight fit, but works pretty well.
> Amazon.com : Ibera Bike Black Medium or Large Triangle Frame Bag - For Bike Tube Frame, Quick-Access : Sports & Outdoors
> View attachment 1006612


What size frame and what size frame bag is that?



Tunalic said:


> Iberia medium for me.


On 18" frame?


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

kryten said:


> What size frame and what size frame bag is that?
> 
> On 18" frame?


Yes on the frame & medium on the bag.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Hmm...I'm thinking I may even be able to fit large Ibera bag on 18" frame? Trying to get this thing ready for bike packing this summer on the cheap.


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## 2dopler (Nov 21, 2010)

Pic of the Fatty on the snow

Custom flat black paint. Got the decals off eBay


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

kryten said:


> Hmm...I'm thinking I may even be able to fit large Ibera bag on 18" frame? Trying to get this thing ready for bike packing this summer on the cheap.


It's a tight fit. The silver piping on the perimeter rubbed down to the metal on the downtube just above the BB. The bag sits right on the downtube, so I would put some protective tape down before installing. Keep soft stuff like spare tubes in the bottom, not hard/heavy stuff like tools or pumps or you can hear them hitting the frame as you bounce down the trail.


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## blowery (Aug 28, 2014)

2dopler said:


> Pic of the Fatty on the snow
> 
> Custom flat black paint. Got the decals off eBay


Looks great, what prep work did you do? Light scuffing or full sanding? Thinking of changing mine up.


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## dbhammercycle (Nov 15, 2011)

2dopler said:


> Pic of the Fatty on the snow
> 
> Custom flat black paint. Got the decals off eBay


Nice. thumbs up!


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## Ol Bromy (Feb 6, 2009)

Riding my Fatty in Fort Bragg/Mendocino this week.


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

So this is happening. Waiting on a new crown race. Also have a new hub coming for the 29+ wheel.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Just double checking, but looks like these won't fit the fatty without a different front hub?

Fattie Slims | Framed Bikes

On One's 29er wheelset is almost double the price and out of my budget for this 'commuter' project...


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

kryten said:


> Just double checking, but looks like these won't fit the fatty without a different front hub?
> 
> Fattie Slims | Framed Bikes
> 
> On One's 29er wheelset is almost double the price and out of my budget for this 'commuter' project...


Not in stock form. On-One forks use rear disk spacing, Framed uses front disk spacing. You can grind out the caliper mount to so it lines up with the rotor. Ive also seen folks offset the axle with different width nuts, then re-dish the wheel.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

MTBLoCo29 said:


> Not in stock form. On-One forks use rear disk spacing, Framed uses front disk spacing. You can grind out the caliper mount to so it lines up with the rotor. Ive also seen folks offset the axle with different width nuts, then re-dish the wheel.


Thanks, that's what I thought, just want something plug-n-play and inexpensive. I guess there are not many other options in that price range...


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

kryten said:


> Thanks, that's what I thought, just was something plug-n-play and inexpensive. I guess there are not many other options in that price range...


For what it's worth, you really get what you pay for with the Framed wheels. Hubs aren't great, rims are heavy and narrow, and the tires and tubes are crap. I rebuilt mine with some Velocity Blunt 35s and put on some 3" tires and new tubes. Now I'm relacing a new front hub to go with the new fork I got (thru-axle compatible). If I hadn't gotten them free when I bought a Framed MN, I would have been better off building from scratch.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

MTBLoCo29 said:


> For what it's worth, you really get what you pay for with the Framed wheels. Hubs aren't great, rims are heavy and narrow, and the tires and tubes are crap. I rebuilt mine with some Velocity Blunt 35s and put on some 3" tires and new tubes. Now I'm relacing a new front hub to go with the new fork I got (thru-axle compatible). If I hadn't gotten them free when I bought a Framed MN, I would have been better off building from scratch.


Those Velocity are 27.5 with 3" tires?

Do you think there is realistically a chance to build a 29er wheelset for commuting, that is better quality than Framed Fattie Slims, that still fits a certain budget? (Cheaper than On One Fat Not Fat wheel set) I obviously need to do some research. Thanks...


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

kryten said:


> Those Velocity are 27.5 with 3" tires?
> 
> Do you think there is realistically a chance to build a 29er wheelset for commuting, that is better quality than Framed Fattie Slims, that still fits a certain budget? (Cheaper than On One Fat Not Fat wheel set) I obviously need to do some research. Thanks...


Mine are 29ers. Tight squeeze with the 3", but plenty of room with 2.2s. If you are just looking to build some commuter wheels, look for some used fatbike hubs, lots of folks are ditching the 135/170 for wider hubs to run Blutos or 5" tires. Any 170 will work out back. For the front, you can use Surly hubs, the Salsa Enabler, or any standard MTB rear, though a SS specific would be best. You can get new 29er rims pretty cheap too, as the industry is pushing the wide rims. Just look around for closeouts on old models. Here's an example. MTB Rims | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

2dopler said:


> Pic of the Fatty on the snow
> 
> Custom flat black paint. Got the decals off eBay


Nice! for a minute I thought '15 Farley 6


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## 2dopler (Nov 21, 2010)

blowery said:


> Looks great, what prep work did you do? Light scuffing or full sanding? Thinking of changing mine up.


Professionally blasted and repainted. Never had much luck painting on my own


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## 2dopler (Nov 21, 2010)

Tunalic said:


> Nice! for a minute I thought '15 Farley 6


You would not be the first. I've had people staring at it up close and assuming it's the Farley 😄


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

MTBLoCo29 said:


> Mine are 29ers. Tight squeeze with the 3", but plenty of room with 2.2s. If you are just looking to build some commuter wheels, look for some used fatbike hubs, lots of folks are ditching the 135/170 for wider hubs to run Blutos or 5" tires. Any 170 will work out back. For the front, you can use Surly hubs, the Salsa Enabler, or any standard MTB rear, though a SS specific would be best. You can get new 29er rims pretty cheap too, as the industry is pushing the wide rims. Just look around for closeouts on old models. Here's an example. MTB Rims | Chain Reaction Cycles


I will be watching for some used parts for sure. So far I found 9:Zero:7 rear spaced front hub on sale for $36 and Salsa Mukluk 3 rear hub for $115 as cheapest options. Also considering WTB i23 rims for about $26 each, but with spokes and wheel assembly it is in the same price range as On One wheelset.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Another question regarding the carbon fatty fork. Are the logos removable decals or are they under the clearcoat?


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

kryten said:


> Another question regarding the carbon fatty fork. Are the logos removable decals or are they under the clearcoat?


Not sure, I haven't tried. I will say that nothing has peeled/scratched off after 2 years. As for the wheels, any 29er rear wheel should work on the front if you don't want to build a new one. Might look a little funny, but then you'd only have to build one wheel... I build my own wheels, so I didn't factor that into the cost.


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## SundayRiverRider (Oct 29, 2008)

Hey guys, I'm building up a new V2 fatty frame. Swapping a bunch of stuff over from my old fat bike. I have 2 questions and I appreciate the help: 

1) Need a new rear wheel. What size hub works on new frame? Might end up buying new wheelset.

2) Have a new Bluto 120mm. Decent headset that works with frame and fork? Looks like they stopped making Mixie Smooth tapered piece. 

I think have everything else sorted, might need some new cranks too. Thinking Race Face, been happy with mine on other bikes. I just have to make sure to get the right spacing correct? 

Thanks!


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## dbhammercycle (Nov 15, 2011)

170 rear. I don't remember if the headtube is tapered, but you can get a bottom headset cup to fit the Bluto. I'd personally look at Cane Creek, probably the 40. You may also want to lower the travel to 100mm.

On-One Fatty V2 Frame | Planet X


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

dbhammercycle said:


> 170 rear. I don't remember if the headtube is tapered, but you can get a bottom headset cup to fit the Bluto. I'd personally look at Cane Creek, probably the 40. You may also want to lower the travel to 100mm.
> 
> On-One Fatty V2 Frame | Planet X


170 QR rear wheel. For headsets, Chris King is worth the extra $$ as it will last forever. If you are keeping costs down, Cane Creek 40 is solid. I'm running Turbines with a 30T NW on the inside of the spider. It's close to the chainstay, but clearance is fine. No tire rub in low with Nates on Mulefut 80s.


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

SundayRiverRider said:


> Hey guys, I'm building up a new V2 fatty frame. Swapping a bunch of stuff over from my old fat bike. I have 2 questions and I appreciate the help:
> 
> 1) Need a new rear wheel. What size hub works on new frame? Might end up buying new wheelset.
> 
> ...


Responded to the wrong poster, see my reply to dbhammercycle


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## SundayRiverRider (Oct 29, 2008)

Thanks guys. 


I might got 1x on this too. I like it on my 29er. We'll see. 

Why lower the fork to 100 from 120? I thought it was designed to handle 120? Did you find 100 just worked better?


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

Stevob said:


> Yes, I've seen that site. Thanks anyway Shaggy.
> 
> If I had to guess from that pic, it looks like 32:17 (using a half link), just a little tall for my liking. There's always other options for tensioning a ss anyway.


Did you ever figure this out? I run 32:18 on my 29er SS, was thinking a 17 cog would work nicely with the 30t on the Fatty.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

> Another question regarding the carbon fatty fork. Are the logos removable decals or are they under the clearcoat?


I have the white carbon fork and the decals are under the clearcoat.

Also, the Fatty forks are set up for rear disc spacing. Most forks/hubs now use front hub spacing.


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## dbhammercycle (Nov 15, 2011)

SundayRiverRider said:


> Thanks guys.
> 
> I might got 1x on this too. I like it on my 29er. We'll see.
> 
> Why lower the fork to 100 from 120? I thought it was designed to handle 120? Did you find 100 just worked better?


I very well may be wrong, but I don't think the Fatty was designed for that much travel. The Fatty Trail was designed around the 120 Bluto. I'm not saying you can't, there are certainly lots of examples of non suspension corrected frames that have sus forks slapped on 'em and I've certainly seen a few pics of the Fatties with sus forks. I think the a-c of the Fatty fork is 470mm and the 120 Bluto is 531. I just think you should be aware of the change to the head tube angle, etc.


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

SundayRiverRider said:


> Thanks guys.
> 
> I might got 1x on this too. I like it on my 29er. We'll see.
> 
> Why lower the fork to 100 from 120? I thought it was designed to handle 120? Did you find 100 just worked better?


Been very happy with 30t x 11-36 cassette. Just got a Carver Trans-fat with 506mm A2C, I'll post a ride report vs. the carbon if my new crown race ever shows up.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Thanks, yes, the rear spacing front hub is a bit of a PITA these days. 

I'm in a bit of a dilemma as to what do do with my Fatty. I'm just shy of 5'10" or just a hair under and on my 16" frame I find myself slightly cramped. This is with 60mm stem and 12mm setback Twelfty seatpost. I feel like I would be happier on an 18", but unsure if I should get 18" frame, swap over everything and try to sell 16" V1 frame. Or just get rid of the Fatty and get a different bike. Rear spaced front hub, no through axles and 170mm rear end are feeling a little outdated to be spending a lot of cash on imo.

I would also like to get a 29er wheelset for commuting this spring/summer and would not mind the carbon fork for looks and weight savings. (This thing is over 35lbs now). On top of that I would like to try few bikepacking trips this summer and the bike can serve as a loaner for friends couple times a year, so could have a few other uses apart from main snow/winter duty. I do have a Giant Trance for summer already. For bikepacking, I would think (especially the 18") can fit a decent size frame bag unlike my Trance.

Trance - summer rig
Fatty - winter rig mainly, bikepacking?, commuter?, loaner for friends, occasional summer use for fun

Just to put in perspective, mine is full XT 2x10 build with e13 crank, BB7's, studded Dillingers 4s, and also Floaters.

I guess I could just get 18" V2 frame and try to sell 16" V1 if there even is market for one? I could live with skipping on the carbon fork to save some cash there. Still another $500 CAD for skinny wheelset with tires and $400+CAD for frame shipped minus whatever I get for the V1. Just have hard time seeing it as cost effective. My head is spinning from all this by now, and I'm probably not thinking clear about this anymore. 

Do I just sell and get/build something else? Thanks for any advice.


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

Tough call. At 5'10", I really like the way my 18" fits and rides. I don't need 5" tires, so I'm happy having the narrower q-factor of the 170 rear. Not much size difference in the front triangle between the 16 and 18. The two things that are making me look at a Soma Sandworm are a bigger front triangle for more waterbottle placement/bigger frame pack, and the sliding dropouts to run SS. 
It does have rack mounts and the ability to run belt drive, though I don't see myself ever using them. The geo is very close to the Fatty, more trail oriented. Also has more room for the 29+ tires.


----------



## dbhammercycle (Nov 15, 2011)

@Kryten

You could get the Fatback import hubset for cheap and gain 9mm and 10mm thru axles. Also, you could put on a longer stem, unless you feel you are already over the front wheel enough or if you feel the reach is still too short. 'Tis the season for upgrades for a good pricepoint or a discounted end of season new fatty.

That's not much help, but really the choice is yours. Perhaps the thing to do is go to your LBS and test ride other frames to get an idea of what you want for top tube length.


----------



## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

I will look into the Soma. I was looking at the orange '16 RSD Mayor frameset with carbon fork to build instead.

I would prefer not to go with longer than 60mm stem. One option I thought of was getting a Truvativ 25mm offset seatpost for under $50 for now, but I don't think I want to be on a wrong sized bike long term.

I did notice being a bit cramped after I cut my handlebar from 785 to 760 which is what I run on my trail bike as well.

The Fatback hubset I found for $125 is front disc spaced so it wont fit in either fatty fork afaik.


----------



## dbhammercycle (Nov 15, 2011)

The Soma has sooo many things going for it, but the tall stand over height (IMO) killed it for me. I'd rather see 30.5in than 31.5in for the 17.5in lrg size.


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

dbhammercycle said:


> The Soma has sooo many things going for it, but the tall stand over height (IMO) killed it for me. I'd rather see 30.5in than 31.5in for the 17.5in lrg size.


About 2lbs heavier than the Fatty as well....


----------



## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

MTBLoCo29 said:


> Did you ever figure this out? I run 32:18 on my 29er SS, was thinking a 17 cog would work nicely with the 30t on the Fatty.


Never tried, however, I've taken my gears off and put them on my SS for now, so the Fatty is just begging for a SS conversion.


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

Stevob said:


> Never tried, however, I've taken my gears off and put them on my SS for now, so the Fatty is just begging for a SS conversion.


I did the opposite. I had put a 1x10 on my Kona Unit for a while, but transferred it when I got the Fatty and made the Kona SS again. Wanted to try SS with the fat or 29+.


----------



## 2dopler (Nov 21, 2010)

kryten said:


> Thanks, yes, the rear spacing front hub is a bit of a PITA these days.
> 
> I'm in a bit of a dilemma as to what do do with my Fatty. I'm just shy of 5'10" or just a hair under and on my 16" frame I find myself slightly cramped. This is with 60mm stem and 12mm setback Twelfty seatpost. I feel like I would be happier on an 18", but unsure if I should get 18" frame, swap over everything and try to sell 16" V1 frame. Or just get rid of the Fatty and get a different bike. Rear spaced front hub, no through axles and 170mm rear end are feeling a little outdated to be spending a lot of cash on imo.
> 
> ...


I'm just under 5'10 on an 18" with a 70mm stem and straight post and feel like it fits well. I think I would be cramped on a 16". The 18" would likely be a better fir for you


----------



## blowery (Aug 28, 2014)

This thread needs more pictures..
Still trying to decide which tires to go too.


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

blowery said:


> This thread needs more pictures..
> Still trying to decide which tires to go too.
> 
> View attachment 1056994


Here's some new pics. Just rebuilt the 29+ front wheel with a thru-axle compatible hub to go with the new fork. Trusty Evo456 hanging around in the the background.


----------



## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

blowery said:


> This thread needs more pictures..
> Still trying to decide which tires to go too.
> 
> View attachment 1056994


----------



## 2dopler (Nov 21, 2010)

kryten said:


> View attachment 1057017


Agreed


----------



## 2dopler (Nov 21, 2010)

MTBLoCo29 said:


> Here's some new pics. Just rebuilt the 29+ front wheel with a thru-axle compatible hub to go with the new fork. Trusty Evo456 hanging around in the the background.
> 
> View attachment 1057009
> View attachment 1057010
> ...


Am I reading that right? 29+ on a On*One Fatty? I thought that had been tried and failed...if that fits then I'm looking at building that up for mine

Can you post a couple rear clearance pics with the 29+ wheels?


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

2dopler said:


> Am I reading that right? 29+ on a On*One Fatty? I thought that had been tried and failed...if that fits then I'm looking at building that up for mine
> 
> Can you post a couple rear clearance pics with the 29+ wheels?


Only place it's tight is the chainstay bridge. Tons of room everywhere else. I put a little frame protector there to save wear and tear. Running Innova Vidars on Blunt 35 rims. Currently with tubes, at 12-15psi.


----------



## pharcyde (Aug 30, 2008)

29+ fits tight but can be done. Under the On One carbon forks no probs at all. As mentioned, the chain stay bridge does get close.

My new setup is Nextie Jungle Fox 52mm carbon rims and Maxxis Chronicle 3.0.


----------



## HOSSinNH (Apr 26, 2013)

That Nextie 29+ setup looks awesome!


----------



## blowery (Aug 28, 2014)

pharcyde said:


> 29+ fits tight but can be done. Under the On One carbon forks no probs at all. As mentioned, the chain stay bridge does get close.
> 
> My new setup is Nextie Jungle Fox 52mm carbon rims and Maxxis Chronicle 3.0.


That looks great!

So, I'm not up to the plus sizes, but why the 29+?
Is it because it's a faster rolling almost fat tire? Or is there some other reason I don't know about. Assuming it gives most of the benefits of fast without the downfalls, plus faster?


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

blowery said:


> That looks great!
> 
> So, I'm not up to the plus sizes, but why the 29+?
> Is it because it's a faster rolling almost fat tire? Or is there some other reason I don't know about. Assuming it gives most of the benefits of fast without the downfalls, plus faster?


Taller tire for better rollover combined with 12-15psi really smooths out tech trails with rocks and roots. Also a bigger contact patch for better traciton when compared to a regular 29er. Not as much weight or rolling resistance than a full fat.


----------



## pharcyde (Aug 30, 2008)

MTBLoCo29 said:


> Taller tire for better rollover combined with 12-15psi really smooths out tech trails with rocks and roots. Also a bigger contact patch for better traciton when compared to a regular 29er. Not as much weight or rolling resistance than a full fat.


Nailed it!


----------



## Eatdabike (Nov 11, 2014)

*27.5 plus*

But why are people choosing 29+ over 27.5+? 
Isn't 29+ putting the BB a bit high?
The Fatty was designed around 26x4 tires. So according to the attached chart 27.5+ is the same diameter as 26x4 and should fit the Fatty better than 29+, right?
Anyone having experience with 27.5+ on the Fatty?


----------



## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

Eatdabike said:


> But why are people choosing 29+ over 27.5+?
> Isn't 29+ putting the BB a bit high?
> The Fatty was designed around 26x4 tires. So according to the attached chart 27.5+ is the same diameter as 26x4 and should fit the Fatty better than 29+, right?
> Anyone having experience with 27.5+ on the Fatty?
> View attachment 1060385


Honestly, it's because I already had the wheels when I bought my Fatty frame. It does raise the BB a little, but I haven't had any ill effects. If anything, I notice more pedal strikes when I go back to the fat wheels. I do like the rollover/ approach angle of the larger diameter tires. Of course all bets are off now that I put a suspension fork on the front. Having to adjust to a taller/slacker front end with either wheelset.


----------



## Ol Bromy (Feb 6, 2009)

MTB Tools Mtn Bike 12mm x 170mm thru Axle to Standard 5mm QR Wheel Adapter | eBay

Found this thru-axle on eBay for my Fatty wheel set. Just installed it and it fits perfectly. I've had my fatty for 2 months and I've already needed a warranty replacement freehub body. The drive side end cap worked loose allowing the freehub body to move enough for the ratchet ring inside the hub body to chew up the alloy freehub body. I'd had the same thing happen to my SunRingle hub that I have on my Inbred and they sent me this exact same type of thru-bolt. Haven't had any problems with my SunRingle wheels in the 2 years since. Very stoked that I found this.


----------



## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Is there any rear rack that can be mounted to this frame since the frame does not have any eyelets?

Will something like this be best option if any?

Phat Sherpa Rear 170mm Hub-Mounted 5mm Quick Release with Clamps - Old Man Mountain specializes in Racks designed to work on all bikes.

Since as usual I'm on a budget, looking at the Axiom Fatliner or Blackburn Outpost.

Fatliner - Streamliner - Racks - Products - Axiom Cycling Gear

OUTPOST FAT BIKE RACK


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Ol' Bromy said:


> MTB Tools Mtn Bike 12mm x 170mm thru Axle to Standard 5mm QR Wheel Adapter | eBay
> 
> Found this thru-axle on eBay for my Fatty wheel set. Just installed it and it fits perfectly. I've had my fatty for 2 months and I've already needed a warranty replacement freehub body. The drive side end cap worked loose allowing the freehub body to move enough for the ratchet ring inside the hub body to chew up the alloy freehub body. I'd had the same thing happen to my SunRingle hub that I have on my Inbred and they sent me this exact same type of thru-bolt. Haven't had any problems with my SunRingle wheels in the 2 years since. Very stoked that I found this.


Ol Bromy, can you explain this a bit more.

Do you have the standard hub and you replaced its 10 mm axle with the 12 mm through axle from MTB tools? What I don't understand is how the 12 mm axle fits in the existing bearings that are made for a 10 mm axle. Did you also replace the end caps as I assume the originals are built for a 100 mm axle.

Thanks

Tim


----------



## Ol Bromy (Feb 6, 2009)

Hey Tim,

I do have the stock V2 On One rear hub. My wheelset came with standard QR's and different, replaceable end caps, 12mm for the rear which I used in this case and 15mm for the front. The end caps that are used if I stick with the quick releases are 10mm at the end where they fit into the drop-outs. If those are removed, the opening in the hub axle is 12mm wide. This thru-axle that I found on eBay is 12mm X 170mm and just slides right thru the hub axle perfectly. As you can see in my pics above, it steps down to 10mm to fit the drop-outs just as the QR caps did. This thru axle that I found and the end caps that came with my wheels was all that was needed to do this. Well that and a little blue loctite on the drive side 12mm threaded cap to keep everything nice and tight. So far it has been great. Hope this helps. 

Jason


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Thanks Jason, That clears it up.

Tim


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## Ol Bromy (Feb 6, 2009)

Finally got around to drilling my Fatty wheels. Shaved somewhere in the range of 3/4 lb off of her.


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## dbhammercycle (Nov 15, 2011)

Is the frame in the 2nd pic to the left of the fatty the raw steel the 45650b?

Cool.


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## Ol Bromy (Feb 6, 2009)

The bike on the far left is my Inbred 29er with the horizontal dropouts. I've had her set up as a rigid single speed, rigid geared and now she's got a 1x10 and a squishy fork on her. Still love that bike and ride it all the time. Definitely does look like raw steel in that one pic though


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## dbhammercycle (Nov 15, 2011)

Gotcha, love the 2nd pic with the mud wiped away. Cheers!


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## Ol Bromy (Feb 6, 2009)

Thanks man. Cheers


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

I'm having the same issue with my rear wheel coming loose in the dropouts repeatedly after a few rides. I have the QR tight and the wheel seated in the droputs correctly, but after a few rides it will slip down a little on the drive side making the wheel not aligned correctly with the side knobs closer to the chainstay on the non drive side. Is this a QR issue or user error?


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## Ol Bromy (Feb 6, 2009)

kryten said:


> I'm having the same issue with my rear wheel coming loose in the dropouts repeatedly after a few rides. I have the QR tight and the wheel seated in the droputs correctly, but after a few rides it will slip down a little on the drive side making the wheel not aligned correctly with the side knobs closer to the chainstay on the non drive side. Is this a QR issue or user error?


V2 wheels? I'd remove the rear wheel, pull off the cassette and check that the threaded cap that holds the freehub body on is tight. When you have the cap off, put a drop of blue thread lock on the threads to keep it tight.


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

I had the same problem with my front wheel and fixed as described here: http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/one-fatty-front-wheel-retention-914639.html

Tim


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## zozzo69 (Jan 22, 2014)

kryten said:


> I'm having the same issue with my rear wheel coming loose in the dropouts repeatedly after a few rides. I have the QR tight and the wheel seated in the droputs correctly, but after a few rides it will slip down a little on the drive side making the wheel not aligned correctly with the side knobs closer to the chainstay on the non drive side. Is this a QR issue or user error?


Classical issue with On-One QR which are a low quality aluminium. I had the same. Easily fixed by replacing the QR by a Hope QR which hold the Wheel much better ;-)


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## Ol Bromy (Feb 6, 2009)

zozzo69 said:


> Classical issue with On-One QR which are a low quality aluminium. I had the same. Easily fixed by replacing the QR by a Hope QR which hold the Wheel much better ;-)


I replaced my stock QRs with the hope guys too after on time I noticed my rear wheel had worked loose mid ride and I had to really man handle the stock QR to tighten it enough to not feel any play and damn near crushed the QR nylon bushing in the process. When I got home I discovered that drive-side threaded cap had worked loose. The hope skewers are much nicer and will likely hold the wheel much better as well.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Thanks for all suggestions, I will have to take off the cassette and inspect although not 100% sure what I'm looking for, but may just get it once I'm looking at it. Otherwise I may just get a Hope skewer at some point.


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## Ol Bromy (Feb 6, 2009)

The black cap at the end of the freehub body is threaded, at least on my V2 wheels. It can be removed with a cone wrench. The non-drive side just pops off. Just make sure the drive side cap is nice and tight, then pop a new Hope skewer in there.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Ol' Bromy said:


> The black cap at the end of the freehub body is threaded, at least on my V2 wheels. It can be removed with a cone wrench. The non-drive side just pops off. Just make sure the drive side cap is nice and tight, then pop a new Hope skewer in there.


Awesome, thanks. Now I know exactly what to check. Will order a new Hope skewer anyway. I have V1 frame and wheels.


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## mikedeber (May 10, 2006)

Eatdabike said:


> Anyone having experience with 27.5+ on the Fatty?


I've been on 27+ since last July and am diggin it. I would have gone 29+ but didn't want to shell out a bunch of money only to find out that I couldn't fit a rear wheel in there.





in fat mode on the dunes


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## blowery (Aug 28, 2014)

So Bontrager Barbegazi won't fit on the rear on these bikes. Thought it might be small enough, smaller than Lou, but rubs on chain stay and chain on 1x. Might be able to space chain out, but not going to get past the rub.

anyone interested in a brand new 4.7 Barbegazi? lol


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## trailwerks (Aug 24, 2007)

2dopler said:


> Pic of the Fatty on the snow
> 
> Custom flat black paint. Got the decals off eBay


Picture Rock? Love it! Do you have a link to the graphics?


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## 2dopler (Nov 21, 2010)

trailwerks said:


> Picture Rock? Love it! Do you have a link to the graphics?


Search on-one decals (need the dash) on e-bay and check under international sellers. There are a few different styles

Post pics if you customize


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## 2dopler (Nov 21, 2010)

blowery said:


> Looks great, what prep work did you do? Light scuffing or full sanding? Thinking of changing mine up.


Just saw this. I bought the bike already painted black but added the decals. Original owner had it painted professionally with a run of bikes from a framebuilder in the area


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## trailwerks (Aug 24, 2007)

2dopler said:


> Just saw this. I bought the bike already painted black but added the decals. Original owner had it painted professionally with a run of bikes from a framebuilder in the area


Awesome thank you.


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## boomforeal (Nov 9, 2005)

posting up my newly built fatty. i bought a fatty v2 frame and a fatty trail complete, and swapped the parts from the latter on to the former









shortened the fork. headset took some figuring and frame prepping but pressed in fine. tried setting the wheels up tubeless but wasn't really impressed with the bead-seat i was able to get and didn't really feel like blowing stans all over the trails so i scrapped it. everything else swapped over fine

relevant geo numbers came out to 66.5* hta, 74* sta, 12.8" bb height. it's a bit short in the reach department but not too bad

only a couple of trail rides so far but it's a hoot. lots of traction on the ups and a freight train on the downs. my weekday rides involve getting dropped off at the trails and having to ride 15km/10mile home afterwards - more a slog than on my 29er HT, but not nearly as bad as i was expecting 

first snow ride is tonight


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## trailwerks (Aug 24, 2007)

boomforeal said:


> posting up my newly built fatty. i bought a fatty v2 frame and a fatty trail complete, and swapped the parts from the latter on to the former
> 
> View attachment 1109409
> 
> ...


I'm eagerly waiting for my frame to build up. How tall are you? You get a 20"?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## boomforeal (Nov 9, 2005)

trailwerks said:


> I'm eagerly waiting for my frame to build up. How tall are you? You get a 20"?


6'2" and yeah i got a 20


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## trailwerks (Aug 24, 2007)

boomforeal said:


> 6'2" and yeah i got a 20


Good to hear. Me too. Was a little worried about the reach compared to my bike.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## boomforeal (Nov 9, 2005)

trailwerks said:


> Good to hear. Me too. Was a little worried about the reach compared to my bike.


if you're coming from - or especially if you'll be switching back and forth with - a modern trail/am bike, you might find it a bit discombobulating for the first few rides. but in absolute terms its not that bad


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## trailwerks (Aug 24, 2007)

It has been a blast so far. It's easy to pop up. Jumps like crazy and has been pretty comfortable.

Fork is set at 100mm but I will be extending to 120 and putting a bit more rise of a bar on.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## FlowinFlo (Jan 29, 2012)

Now with a Jumbo Jim 4.4" in the rear.


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## boomforeal (Nov 9, 2005)

trailwerks said:


> Fork is set at 100mm but I will be extending to 120 and putting a bit more rise of a bar on.


i'll be interested to hear your impression with a bluto at 120. the fatty is designed around a 470mm long fork and a bluto at 120 will be pushing 530mm, almost 3" longer

i hear you on the riser bar though, just bought a fu40 for mine


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## blowery (Aug 28, 2014)

So dumb question... I need to upgrade my crankset on this bike.

Going with race face aeffect 170mm.

Bottom bracket: looking at shimano XTR SM BB93 (not 100mm) but can I just toss the plastic sleeve or is that a bad idea?
Should I just look for something different for a bottom bracket?


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## RockySpieler (Jan 8, 2012)

My fatty has a hope bb threaded. I brought the bike complete 2nd hand. The original bb 68mm sleeve was fitted (with a gap on the non-drive side). I just replaced it by cutting up an old tube of zero tablets as a sleeve, fits perfectly over the 24mm spindle.


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

been a while since I checked this thread, but my Fatty is still running strong, though has dropped down to a winter bike, since I've bought about 4-5 bikes in the last 2 years. But I'm starting to make small upgrades to from my original setup, primarily lighter goals. It's about a stout 36# right now, mostly rotational weight from the cheap Weinmann wheels and running tubes. I've found that I like my mtbs around 24-27# range, though I know that's not practical for this bike, but trying to drop about 4-5# without spending a whole lot of dough. What do your bikes weigh in at? 

Just got a set of Rolling Darryls and will get the Floaters on them running tubes. Guess that will drop about 3-4# alone.


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## adept1 (Jul 25, 2008)

Glad to see people are still enjoying the On-One Fatty. I love this bike! I'm about 5'7+ and the small fits me like a glove. I bought the complete bike in 2012 and immediately ditched those SRAM brakes for Shimano XT, and replaced the X5 with X9 and went to 1x10 with a Race Face 30T NW ring.

About 6 months ago, I decided to convert it to 27.5+. I got Hope Pro 4 hubs (by the way, they do still make an RDS front hub) and WTB Scraper rims with WTB Ranger 3.0 tires. I'm loving this combo too.

Just today I received my new SRAM GX1 kit and I'll be making it into 1x11 with 11-46 Sunrace cassette. Will post pics when it's all done.

At this point, not much is original on the bike anymore (cranks, stem, seatpost and bars only), but it's still going strong and I have no urge to replace it.


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## RockySpieler (Jan 8, 2012)

adept1 said:


> Glad to see people are still enjoying the On-One Fatty. I love this bike! I'm about 5'7+ and the small fits me like a glove. I bought the complete bike in 2012 and immediately ditched those SRAM brakes for Shimano XT, and replaced the X5 with X9 and went to 1x10 with a Race Face 30T NW ring.
> 
> About 6 months ago, I decided to convert it to 27.5+. I got Hope Pro 4 hubs (by the way, they do still make an RDS front hub) and WTB Scraper rims with WTB Ranger 3.0 tires. I'm loving this combo too.
> 
> ...


Is your chainline ok?

I am using raceface double chainset with a absoluteblack oval as 1×11. With 11 speed xt 11-46. I think a better chainline could be achieved with a turbine 30mm and reversed dish boost direct mount absolute black.


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## adept1 (Jul 25, 2008)

RockySpieler said:


> Is your chainline ok?
> 
> I am using raceface double chainset with a absoluteblack oval as 1×11. With 11 speed xt 11-46. I think a better chainline could be achieved with a turbine 30mm and reversed dish boost direct mount absolute black.


My chainline is perfect right now (SRAM X5 crank with single 30T ring mounted on the inside of the spider, and XT 11-36 10-speed cassette). Hopefully it's still fine after going to 1x11, 11-46 this weekend! I'll let you know.


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

Also interested in seeing how the Sunrace 11-46 turns out with the GX. Mine's got a 1x10 42T wolftooth and 30NW chainring. Seems to be fine for how I'm riding the bike now, which is less aggressive single track as I've recent built a 29+ for that purpose. The Fatty's just too heavy for when I need playful. 

How much BB drop and wheelbase change did you get going to 27+? also which fork are you using?


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## adept1 (Jul 25, 2008)

qclabrat said:


> Also interested in seeing how the Sunrace 11-46 turns out with the GX. Mine's got a 1x10 42T wolftooth and 30NW chainring. Seems to be fine for how I'm riding the bike now, which is less aggressive single track as I've recent built a 29+ for that purpose. The Fatty's just too heavy for when I need playful.
> 
> How much BB drop and wheelbase change did you get going to 27+? also which fork are you using?


The BB height and wheelbase were virtually unchanged - I did measure at the time, and it was really within a margin of error. I am using the On-One carbon rigid fork.

I just got done installing the new drivetrain. Every gear is working perfectly and shifting is silky smooth. I used to swear by Shimano cassettes only (even on SRAM drivetrains), but this Sunrace cassette is a quality piece - I'm impressed.

I bought the shifter, derailleur, and cassette as a package deal off eBay (vendor: mybicycleparts). Great deal and free shipping. I'm stoked!


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## adept1 (Jul 25, 2008)

Here's the latest pics of my Fatty. 27.5 wheelset (Hope Pro 4, WTB scraper, WTB ranger), SRAM GX drivetrain with Sunrace 11x46. Shimano XT brakes.


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## Bikin' Bric (Sep 7, 2003)

adept1 said:


> Here's the latest pics of my Fatty. 27.5 wheelset (Hope Pro 4, WTB scraper, WTB ranger), SRAM GX drivetrain with Sunrace 11x46. Shimano XT brakes.


That is sexy. Nice setup.


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## sryanak (Aug 9, 2008)

qclabrat said:


> Also interested in seeing how the Sunrace 11-46 turns out with the GX. Mine's got a 1x10 42T wolftooth and 30NW chainring. Seems to be fine for how I'm riding the bike now, which is less aggressive single track as I've recent built a 29+ for that purpose. The Fatty's just too heavy for when I need playful.
> 
> How much BB drop and wheelbase change did you get going to 27+? also which fork are you using?


Wheelbase is determined by frame/fork geometry not tire size. BB height will change with tire diameter wheelbase will not.


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

Just curious, I noticed that PlanetX only has the On One Fatty v2 for sale, and then only in limited sizes (16/18). Have they discontinued making fat bikes completely?


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## dbhammercycle (Nov 15, 2011)

Pack66 said:


> Just curious, I noticed that PlanetX only has the On One Fatty v2 for sale, and then only in limited sizes (16/18). Have they discontinued making fat bikes completely?


AFAIK, no more fat anything. No more Floaters, no more Fatty's or FT's.


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## qclabrat (Aug 16, 2011)

order your extra dropouts if they still exist. I bought one with my frame 2 years ago, just in case...


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