# Black Oxide Coating



## DavidR1 (Jul 7, 2008)

Has anybody coated a frame in black oxide instead of paint or powerder coat?

Looking for something different and I wonder how this coating will react with the brazing (as far as appearance).


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## sonic reducer (Apr 12, 2010)

it would probably look freakin awesome against the brazing since that would not take the blackening. you would still want some sort of clearcoat over the blackening most likely.


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## Vlad (Feb 7, 2004)

BMX pegs are coated with the stuff, and they they rust.


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## fanzy4 (Aug 19, 2004)

I think you're looking for something like this : 

fb6 par fast boy, sur Flickr


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## dbohemian (Mar 25, 2007)

It's gun bluing or parkerizing. Unless done professionally with a hot dip gun blue tank the stuff doesn't last long and will look like shite post haste. Let alone it shows all your work, every gory detail so if it sucks you just get blue/black suck.


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## DavidR1 (Jul 7, 2008)

dbohemian said:


> It's gun bluing or parkerizing. Unless done professionally with a hot dip gun blue tank the stuff doesn't last long and will look like shite post haste. Let alone it shows all your work, every gory detail so if it sucks you just get blue/black suck.


No doubt it would have to be hot application. Gun blueing would not work. Hot dipped can be clear coated, which this frame will be.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Caswell does a DIY cold process black oxide kit. I've done some custom tools with it and it's a little inconsistent in finish and I'm dipping/soaking the parts. I would imagine it would get worse if your brushing it on. The kit comes with a clear and has been pretty durable, even on the wear surfaces of the tools I've done.


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## sonic reducer (Apr 12, 2010)

I blacken stuff at work almost weekly with a gel type blackening product, I can't recall the manufacturer. We use it on cold rolled, hot rolled, handrails, stairs, etc. every piece of metal takes the blackening slightly differently. the more compressed or denser the surface, the less easily the material takes the blackening. sandblasted anything takes it the best because the surface is very open at that point. about the least effective to blacken that I have found is cold rolled round bar due in part I guess to it's denser surface from the manufacturing process. 
the most consistent way to apply the blackening is to wipe it on with a piece of scotchbrite and work it into the metal a bit as if you were rubbing stain into wood with a rag but a little more aggressively. it will lose potency quickly so you have to work a small area then continue on another area with fresh blackening. Getting a piece jet black with any consistency is difficult to impossible without dipping in a hot tank as mentioned above. I just buff it out to a dark grey or whenever it is consistent. at that point it has a bit of luster so it works out well for what I use it for. Also, the metal has to be really really clean before you start blackening, ie some sort of etching acid or at the least wiped down with acetone. 
the blackened steel is a pretty interesting look. lots of luster on cold rolled and strange variations in color on hot rolled.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

dbohemian said:


> It's gun bluing or parkerizing. Unless done professionally with a hot dip gun blue tank the stuff doesn't last long and will look like shite post haste. Let alone it shows all your work, every gory detail so if it sucks you just get blue/black suck.


Coming from the wonderful world of firearms, you are correct. Paint and powdercoating especially can hide a lot of flaws.


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