# 2015 Fox 36



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Has anyone got any info on the new 2015 Fox 36?

From what I have seen it looks like they have moved away from using a spring on the air side to using air.

I think I will have to get one for my new bike when they come out.


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

I would love to see a ride report from anyone. Rumor is that this is the best fork they have released in years. I know they were benchmarking the Pike for ride quality and think they have it beat. The 20 mm through axle is very appealing along with the stouter chassis.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

It's dropped a lot of weight and it's now lighter than a 34!

Vital had this interesting feature on it:

What's Inside The New 2015 FOX 36 Float RC2 Fork? - What's Inside The New 2015 FOX 36 Float RC2 Fork? - Mountain Biking Pictures - Vital MTB

As you can see no negative spring.


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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

With the Pike not having a 170mm 20mm option I am eagerly waiting for the Fox 36 but I am afraid that it will be crazy expensive as usual.


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## hardboiled (Jun 10, 2006)

I think it looks cool, like the 20mm option and independent hi/lo adjustments, but will reserve judgment until it's been beat on for awhile. Fox's annual marketing schpiel of "last year's forks had lots of issues, but this year's are awesome!" has become a farce (same goes for the annual "first look" reviews that regurgitate the ad copy). The Pike is obviously the fork to beat, if Fox hasn't been benchmarking against it for ride quality for the last several years, what on earth have they been doing?? it'd be great if they hit the mark with this one but frankly I'm surprised people are so optimistic given the recent track record. I'd be much more excited about a new Lyrik that shed some weight and sported the Charger damper, can't imagine it is far off.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Leg spacing the same? only want the lowers for the extra arch clearance


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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

I agree about the new Lyrik (if and when it will available). I am looking really forward to it and i can't understand why they don't announce it yet. As for Fox I had a 2013 Fox Float that was terrible so I am not getting too excited yet.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Hopefully today more information will come out about them.


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## OriginalDonk (Jul 8, 2009)

Pinkbike and Bike Rumor have quite a bit of info on the 36 RC2. Sounds like the PinkBike reviewer thinks it matches the Pike when looking at performance.

Riding FOX's New 36 - First Ride - Pinkbike

2015 Fox 36 FLOAT Tech Unveiled ? All New, All Air System


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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

Honestly I was expecting more. The reviews don't seem to be too enthusiastic.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

I'm excited about it. The only thing I don't like is the lack of tool less front wheel removal. 



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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

Fox 36 will for sure be more expensive than Pike that you can now buy around 650 euros so I would expect it to be much better than it instead of just equal in performance as the reviews mention. There are for sure some positive points about the 36 but it seems that the reviewers were not blown away by it. 

Since I am looking for a new 170mm fork and I am willing to spend around 1.000 euros I was eagerly waiting for the 36 but it seems that I need to wait a little bit more for some user reviews as well.


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

Seem pretty positive here. Sounds like the kind of ride I'm looking for. Firm but don't spike.

2015 Fox Forks, and the new Fox 36 - BikeRadar


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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

For sure it sounds better than the previous versions. Also they have more size and axle options than Pike especially for someone like me who wants a 170-180 fork that is not included in the Pike line. Yes there is Lyrik but this is another discussion.

All good but given the fact that this is a 2015 fork and will cost much more than a Pike I would expect it to outperform it to justify the cost. Anyway I hope that I am wrong and it is a great fork but I won't make any move until I see more reviews. And of course I still wait and hope for a lighter charger damped Lyrik.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

gvs_nz said:


> Seem pretty positive here. Sounds like the kind of ride I'm looking for. Firm but don't spike.
> 
> 2015 Fox Forks, and the new Fox 36 - BikeRadar


I don't trust them for reviews tbh!


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## blindboxx2334 (Jul 12, 2010)

Rick Draper said:


> I don't trust them for reviews tbh!


damn, that is the most in-depth review ive seen on their site. theyre usually super vague and dont really go into details.

their reviews do suck.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Couple of pretty good reviews here:

Review: New 2015 Fox 36 FLOAT and TALAS fork | Mountain Bike Review

Testbericht: Fox 36 Float Factory RC2 2015 | Enduro Mountainbike Magazine

Sounds like a lot of the complaints of earlier 36's have been addressed...


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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

Do we have any actual users' reviews?

To be honest I was expecting some more hype since this is supposed to be a game changer for Fox. Anyway even though I am not so crazy about Fox I am still considering the 36 as an option for my Reign SX especially since Pike doesn't have a 170mm option. 

The positives about Fox 36 is that with the same a2c height I get 180mm instead of 170mm, it can be lowered if I change my bike, it is almost the same weight as a Pike but takes a 20mm axle and the reviews are positive enough. 

My other choice is the Lyrik RC2DH which is much cheaper but also a bit outdated (I think).


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

LCW said:


> Couple of pretty good reviews here:
> 
> Review: New 2015 Fox 36 FLOAT and TALAS fork | Mountain Bike Review
> 
> ...


From Enduro mag
"My basic set-up for a rider weight of 70 kg: 78 PSI,"

That's very linear, even compared to the 2013 RC2.


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## Bogdan_mb (Apr 1, 2013)

Paris, if you are willing to drop some serious cash, have you ever thought Bos deville as an option? 

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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

Hi. I have thought about it and I know a guy who has one and is really happy but unfortunately where I come from (Greece) we don't have easy access to official service etc.

To be honest 1.000 euros are a lot of money for a fork and this is why I would rather prefer a Pike that I can find for only 650 euros but unfortunately there is no 170mm option and Rockshox replied to my question in Facebook that they don't have any immediate plans for a charger damped Lyrik, at least yet.

So I can keep my Domain RC which is a good enough but really heavy fork or buy the Lyrik RC2DH or spend the extra cash for Fox 36 or keep waiting since I have this feeling that I haven't find yet my dream fork.


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## Bogdan_mb (Apr 1, 2013)

Just a question, do you need this fork for your Trek Fuel? Looking for freeride/Enduro forks on XC /cross bikes it's not the best solution. 

In other case, Pike is a great fork, in case you need a taller one for a correct/steeper angle get the 27.5 one, it only adds 10mm. Or if you really want to bomb hard get a 170 Lyrik Rc2c or RcDh, my brother has one in 180 mm and works almost similar with the Pike, maybe it lacks just a little small bump compliance. 

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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

I have sold the Fuel. I need the fork for this. Giant Reign SX with many upgrades.


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## CaRaBeeN (Mar 24, 2012)

I plan to upgrade my 2012 Trek Slash 9's Talas 36 160 with this new Float 36's.
But can't decide travel , 160 or 180?
As a2c is 9mm lower, 180 will only increase fronted 11mm, which can be tolerated.
But my issue is, if front is 180 than rear travel will stay 160mm (maybe max 167-168mm if I change shock too.) will it disturb Slash's lovely balance?

Which one would you pick for 160mm travel bike?160mm or 180mm ?

Reducing 180 to 170 , I also don't like the idea as fox says, all initial setups like progressive settings etc is either made for 160 or 180.


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## bkrupp (Apr 21, 2014)

CaRaBeeN said:


> I plan to upgrade my 2012 Trek Slash 9's Talas 36 160 with this new Float 36's.
> But can't decide travel , 160 or 180?
> As a2c is 9mm lower, 180 will only increase fronted 11mm, which can be tolerated.
> But my issue is, if front is 180 than rear travel will stay 160mm (maybe max 167-168mm if I change shock too.) will it disturb Slash's lovely balance?
> ...


If it helps I have also been thinking about this. I've got a 2nd gen nomad and was thinking about the 180 vs 160, and decided when available I would buy the 160 mm version to keep things balanced, as you said, and also don't feel I need that aggressive of a fork. More people I have read reviewing a 180 mm on a 160 mm bike don't like it vs. like it.

The bit about it being tuned for that length from the factory also made my mind up that at 160 I want best performance rather than shortening a 180 and losing some of the factory performance.

But it also depends on your riding, if you pedal a lot or have a dedicated longer travel DH bike I would think 160 mm, if you mainly like to do DH with your bike and don't mind a slightly harder climb get the 180 mm.


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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

I was also thinking the same. My Domain has 555mm a2c and 170mm travel and the new Fox 36 with 180mm travel has 555 a2c so if I didn't want to change the geometry and keel the same a2c I would have to unbalance the bike.

Amyway I finally decided to buy the Lyrik RC2DH that has the same a2c and travel with my Domain and is almost half the price of the Fox 36.


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## TwistdSpokes (Aug 11, 2009)

Hoping the new air spring will be a drop replacement for the older 160 forks, i have a 2012 and no desire to buy another new fork at this point. Though I wouldn't mind having the newer air spring design if it is as good as initial reports.


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

Paris Galanis said:


> I was also thinking the same. My Domain has 555mm a2c and 170mm travel and the new Fox 36 with 180mm travel has 555 a2c so if I didn't want to change the geometry and keel the same a2c I would have to unbalance the bike.
> 
> Amyway I finally decided to buy the Lyrik RC2DH that has the same a2c and travel with my Domain and is almost half the price of the Fox 36.


55CR at 170 could also have been an option. Run mine at 150 and i prefer to ride it over my 2013 F160 rc2, It's a very good fork for the price.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Has anyone got some miles on one of these yet? I'm picking mine up at the end of the week, I hope its been worth the wait.


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## bkrupp (Apr 21, 2014)

Rick Draper said:


> Has anyone got some miles on one of these yet? I'm picking mine up at the end of the week, I hope its been worth the wait.


Me. 20-25 miles so far, 2 rides in 3 days since I installed it. Feels great and still need to tune it a bit.

And yes, worth the wait.


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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

bkrupp said:


> Me. 20-25 miles so far, 2 rides in 3 days since I installed it. Feels great and still need to tune it a bit.
> 
> And yes, worth the wait.


What was your previous fork?


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## bkrupp (Apr 21, 2014)

Paris Galanis said:


> What was your previous fork?


2009/10 Rockshox Lyrik Solo Air. I had it serviced not too long ago, and it didn't feel any better than before. I always noticed that I had to ride with way too much pressure in order for it not to dive under braking, which made it very harsh.

The 36 feels very supportive in the same situations and it has more features I can use to tune it how I want. I haven't dialed in the correct pressure yet, and will probably add a volume spacer then run a little more sag and see how it feels.

The way the 36 fork rides reminded me right away of my Float 40, which was great and just how I wanted it to feel.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Just got my 36, cannot wait to get it on my Nomad.

Looks very good, it will be interesting to crack it open and see if Fox have started building forks better and not just assembled with pot luck as to if it has lube in the lowers or not!


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

Will you put the 36 on your Solo or Nomad?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

randan said:


> Will you put the 36 on your Solo or Nomad?


36 Is for the Nomad, Pike is now going on the Solo.


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## bkrupp (Apr 21, 2014)

Correct, no shock pump.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

This is my first Fox fork, so just verifying. These do not come with a pump like RS forks do, correct?


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Cool, thanks.


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## Lindahl (Aug 9, 2011)

Stoked to try a 180mm -> 150mm 2015 Talas on my Nomad2. 

20mm more travel for the bike park, but only 11mm more axle to crown over my Lyrik. Probably a decent amount of weightloss as well. Waiting to see what people think of the new damper...

Tempted to go with a closeout 2014 Talas, but the weight loss and lower axle to crown really has me leaning towards the 2015. The convertible axle system would be a bonus too (can share wheelsets with my trailbike's Pike - wish they had made a 20mm though).


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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

Once you do please compare it vs the Lyrik.


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

So if Pike made a 20mm, how many riders would not even look at the Fox?
Is the 2015 36 as easy to service as the Pike?
We need more 36 reviews....or is it want?


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## Nuck Biker (Jul 3, 2014)

riding4fun said:


> So if Pike made a 20mm, how many riders would not even look at the Fox?
> Is the 2015 36 as easy to service as the Pike?
> We need more 36 reviews....or is it want?


I've been in the market for a new fork for a while. If the Pike had come in 20mm, I would've bought it by now without hesitation. I'm not saying the 15mm axle alone prevents me from buying a particular fork, but it is definitely one of the biggest factors for me. The service interval of Fox products doesn't appeal to me, however the 36mm stanchions and 20mm axle design have made me delay buying any of the forks currently on the market. I would like to see real world feedback on the DVO Diamond before I make a decision also. So far, the 2015 Fox Float looks the best on paper, and hopefully it rides well because I'm strongly considering it still. Oh yeah, the MRP Stage looks good too and I hope to see more real world feedback on that too.


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## bkrupp (Apr 21, 2014)

My Nomad with the new 36


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

Looks sweet, how does it feel. Did you dial it in yet?


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

bkrupp said:


> My Nomad with the new 36
> 
> View attachment 908716
> View attachment 908717


nice blue little touch


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Big question, have a MY 11-14 vanilla that I want to use (limit travel).. did the stanchion spacing change, would the new lowers bolt on? ?


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

bkrupp said:


> My Nomad with the new 36
> 
> View attachment 908716
> View attachment 908717


Where did you pick the fork up from.

thx


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## bkrupp (Apr 21, 2014)

Thanks for the comments.

Picked it up from competitivecyclist.com, they had preordered some and I made sure I got it first thing. I got the blue retro decal kit from them at the same time and it is way better of a look than the stock orange decals.

I haven't dialed it in, I know I need to, but it feels really, really good without much adjusting. All I have done is air pressure setup before each ride, and only a little bit of knob turning 2-5 clicks back and forth to see what difference it makes. Couldn't really tell much because each ride has been different terrain. But still feels great and I am starting to notice a slight decrease in front end weight from my lyrik.


I don't think that the new lower can just bolt on to the old uppers, since they changed a lot on this fork.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

I just whipped the lowers off mine to check pool volumes as Fox is notoriously bad in this area. My forks seemingly had the correct oil volumes in them, foam rings soaked in 20wt gold as well. The wiper seals were bone dry though so I've given them a lick of shock honey and the fork feels even plusher. Cannot believe on a $1k fork you need to do this though but I guess thats mass manufacturing for you.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Got mine today! Waiting on a crown race so I install it on my 575. Already swapped the decals for white/grey retro ones.


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## bkrupp (Apr 21, 2014)

LCW said:


> Got mine today! Waiting on a crown race so I install it on my 575. Already swapped the decals for white/grey retro ones.


Nice, well post some pics of the bike and fork up close.

Did you take the original decals off? Or just overlay the new white/grey ones on top?


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

I'll post some pics when I have it put together. I took the original decals off. I guess I should have tried to overlay them but oh well.


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## bkrupp (Apr 21, 2014)

LCW said:


> I'll post some pics when I have it put together. I took the original decals off. I guess I should have tried to overlay them but oh well.


Three reasons why I overlayed and didn't take off the originals. First, which is minor, is I got to save the inner "36" orange and white decal segment. Second, I was lazy and didn't want to clean off any potential adhesive. Third, I wanted them EXACTLY how Fox had them, which combined with the laziness makes it difficult to do without any guide or placeholder.

But we (I assume the viewers of this thread) are looking forward to the picks and ride report.


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

Rick Draper said:


> l. The wiper seals were bone dry though so I've given them a lick of shock honey and the fork feels even plusher. Cannot believe on a $1k fork you need to do this though but I guess thats mass manufacturing for you.


That's because they don't need or use grease in the wiper cavity.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

gvs_nz said:


> That's because they don't need or use grease in the wiper cavity.


My new 34 had a healthy wiping of grease in it I'd go against that. I guess it depends who builds it, certainly lower leg lube seems very dependant on that.

Also I'd draw your attention to the fox guidelines of whatever bath oil is used in the lowers be smeared in the cavity of the SKF seal.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

No ride report yet - the new 36 doesn't use the front caliper adapter for 180mm rotors like on the old fork so I need to get some shorter bolts.

Here are a couple pics though. I still wish they had a white version, but I swapped to decals to white ones to compensate. The orange "rainbow" decals just didn't jive.


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## daggert (May 11, 2004)

LCW said:


> No ride report yet - the new 36 doesn't use the front caliper adapter for 180mm rotors like on the old fork so I need to get some shorter bolts.
> 
> Here are a couple pics though. I still wish they had a white version, but I swapped to decals to white ones to compensate. The orange "rainbow" decals just didn't jive.


Sick... mine arrives tomorrow .. can't wait .. New Bronson and Fox 36


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Quick ride report from a burn down my street at lunch... PLUSH!! Small bump compliance I can already feel will be phenomenal! Yet good mid stroke support. This is just set to the same settings as my 2013 36 was so haven't played with it yet. This fork is going to be badass!!!


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

Your bike is one sweet ride! How you feel about the frt axle remove process?


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

riding4fun said:


> Your bike is one sweet ride! How you feel about the frt axle remove process?


Definitely not as quick & convenient as the old dual QR flip levers.

I'm sure Fox did it for weight but it's a step backwards IMO. But I'll live with it. No different than a Fox 40 or dirt bike forks. Just not convenient if you typically take the front wheel off to transport.

Dropped the weight of my bike by 0.6 lbs, so that's a bonus.


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## BC (Jan 11, 2006)

They went back to the pinch bolts of 2005... too funny. Looks like a sweet fork though. So how does it differ in feel to your 2013 36 ?. More active, Less stiction ?, no problem getting full travel ?.

Thanks


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Haven't ridden it on trails yet to answer the full travel, but I got full travel on my 2013 so not worried about this one. 2013 was the 1st year for Fox going with a more linear air spring.

Definitely better small bump compliance on the 2015 - less stiction - very easy to get the fork to move over small bumps. Plus the weight drop of the fork (0.6 lbs) isn't a bad thing.

Besides less weight, I've heard that another reason for going back to pinch bolts was that they now have a floating axle, so combination of that and pinch bolts has less propensity to deflect the lowers when tightened, like it can with the old axle and QR levers, helping in reducing stiction. Also heard the QR's lead to cracked lowers when the small adjuster bolt was overtightened. You'd think pinch bolts would be worse for customers overtightening, but it's what I read somewhere (one of the articles when the new 36 came out).

Apparently some upgrades to the Fit damper on the 2015, but honestly I think one of the bigger benefits besides the weight loss is the air spring - having an air negative spring, that self adjusts based on air pressure, vs the old coil negative spring. Seems to have a good effect for the small bump stuff.

My 2013 seemed to have issues returning to full travel. I'd have to often physically pull down the stanchions to get it back to full travel (a few mm's, but still). The 2015 is so buttery smooth.


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## cmrocks (Sep 30, 2013)

I'm looking at getting a set of 160 mm Fox 36 forks for my Bronson. I currently have the stock 150 mm Fox 34 forks which I'm not really happy with.

I'm finding conflicting information regarding axle to crown height. Is it true that the 160 mm 36 fork has the same axle to crown has a 150 mm 34 fork?


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

2015 36 160 has 536 a-to-c (old ones were 545)... These as #'s from Fox... Go to Fox help section on their site and navigate to the bike section


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## scootdogss (Dec 17, 2009)

I went from stock 34 to 2015 36 160mm talas on my Bronson. I don't remember the exact figures but I think it was only 5mm taller. I measured with a ruler and it's barely noticeable. If you have a bronson and upgrade to 36 be prepared to want a CCDB shock. There is a reason Santa Cruz speced the 2015 with either a pike or 36 and ccdb option.

The 36 is night and day better than the 34. Smooth as silk no more high speed chatter. With one hand on stem I can compress the fork. With the 34 I could barely move the fork without using all my weight, it was hard to set sag correctly because it was so sticky.

I only have one ride and fork isn't completely dialed but it just handles everything smoothly. I have it setup according to fox settings. You can carry more speed without getting bounced around. The wheel just stays planted to the ground way more. So far the 36 gets two thumbs up.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

If anyone is looking to fit a 203mm front rotor on the fork then you need to get a Hope 160-183mm post to post front mount adapter. It is mount H you need.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Rick Draper said:


> If anyone is looking to fit a 203mm front rotor on the fork then you need to get a Hope 160-183mm post to post front mount adapter. It is mount H you need.


FYI if you want to fit a 183 rotor you will have to get inventive. I spoke with Hope and they said they didn't have a solution for that yet.


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

Scootdogss - Where did you source the fork and what did it cost? Inquiring minds want to know.


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## scootdogss (Dec 17, 2009)

Price point 4th of july sale $250 off.

Universal cycles always has 15% off over $300 free shipping no sales tax.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

A-C height is the distance from the axle to where the top of the crown where it sits against the bike frame???

So you guys are saying that even though the fork has 160mm travel (in reference to a 150mm Bronson) the A-C is 536mm, that is basically the same as my my Bronson's 34mm 2014 fork? I have concerns about negatively effecting the geometry of my bike and was just assuming that I'd need to lower the new 2015 Fox 36mm to a 150mm travel just to keep everything in spec?

Also, are you guys all running 30% sag front and rear?

Please advise me cause frankly it's like reading a different language around here for a newbie such as myself.


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

The axle to crown of the 26" 2015 fox 160mm is 536. The axle to crown of the 27.5 is 549. Whatever you run your fox 34 at is the same travel you'd want to run the fox 36 at.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

That's just to cryptic for a newbie like me to understand.

You are saying that my current stock Bronson fork, the 2014 Fox 34mm set at 150mm of travel has a A - C of 539mm? Because at 160mm it has an A -C of 549mm?

So the 2015 Fox 36mm for a 27.5" bike is a 536mm set at a 160mm? Meaning my old fork at 150mm is only 3mm shorter than the 2015 Fox 36 set at 160mm?

If I am reading this all correctly running the NEW Fox 36mm at 160mm will have almost identical geometry (height of front end, etc..) to my old fork at 150mm.


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## scootdogss (Dec 17, 2009)

Suns. You are correct 14 34 150mm same as 15 36 160 mm. Technically the 36 is 5 mm taller. But riding you will not notice a difference.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

I put some miles on the fork over the weekend... I gotta say, the 2015 is BUTTER!!!! Small bump compliance is insane. Normal pressures, soaks up little bumps and chatter, yet great mid stroke support. Amazing fork! Can't wait to take it on some gravity runs.


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## Muttonchops (Jul 16, 2004)

First ride on the 2015 on Saturday on my pretty rough "DH" trails. Absolutely awesome. Hit the first jump and got a bit spooked as it felt super soft...decided to hit the second jump but took control and pushed the fork into the lip and it felt sweet and from there on I guess i had adapted to the 'feel'. Hit all the steeps and drops and felt totally butter.

I am riding it on a Knolly Chilcotin with a Avy Woody on the back and only now do I realize how overwhelmed my old 2008 36 actually felt. The new 2015 matches the rear end so much better.

I was more impressed by this first ride than i was when i replaced my RS Rev on the Endorphin with the Pike. That was more a case of superior stiffness that i really appreciated. The Fox is more subtle and smooth through the mid stroke (compared to the pike) and feels like it ramps up nicely towards the end.

Stoked.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Rode mine at the nearby DH park and just WOW!!. As Muttonchops describes, it's weird at first because the new 36 has such smooth small bump compliance and just feels buttery smooth. But the mid stroke support is awesome and ramps up so nice and predictably. SOAKS up the small chatter, yet doesn't dive deep into the stroke when you hit large square edge rocks. You learn quickly that it just increases the confidence level due to its capability in the chunk, without beating you up in the chattery stuff.

The next day I then dialed back the LSC and HSC, dropped 2-3 psi and rode some single track trails and it was just as much at home on single track as it was on a gravity trail.

Fox has NAILED it with the new 36!! I loved my 2013 36 but the 2015 takes it to a whole new level. Plush, controlled, stiff (chassis), and relatively light (vs the old one).


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Hey, any chance you guys who are already running this fork can post up your:

- Fork length (26, 27.5, 29) and travel:
- Your weight and the psi you're running:
- You HSC/LSC and LSR:
- And, if you've added or pulled any of those tokens.

BTW, was there a break-in run or 1/2 dzn before the fork bedded in and smoothed out?

Thanks.

Mine is in a box, waiting to resolve some headset issues w/ the Chris Klunk InSet 3.


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

I need a 150mm replacement for a 13 Fox Evo 32, the Pike seems to have a larger A2C than I would want and the 15 Fox 36 is roughly 6mm greater. So with that can you change the actual height of the 36 to 150mm in the Talas version? Is this a big job?


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

anyone running a 26" Talas yet?


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

What are you guys running for settings, psi, and your weight? Mine feels good, handles stuff well, but is not great yet. I have owned a number of Fox Floats and can normally dial them relatively quick, but this one is taken more time.


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

*Fox 36 talas 29*

Amazing fork. Direct swap from Pike 160 single air and better in every way(ride) out of the box. On Carbine, 67 degree HA. 160 fork measured same as Pike AC. TALAS great on long climbs and still supple for the techy sections. Rider 200# RTR.
Air - 131#
HSC - 5 clicks
LSC - 7 clicks
Reb - 9 clicks
All settings from full open. 4 rides, 50 miles and very close to dialed.


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## mmckechnie (Jul 12, 2010)

The retro decals go really nicely with your bike! :thumbsup:



TheCanary said:


> Amazing fork. Direct swap from Pike 160 single air and better in every way(ride) out of the box. On Carbine, 67 degree HA. 160 fork measured same as Pike AC. TALAS great on long climbs and still supple for the techy sections. Rider 200# RTR.
> Air - 131#
> HSC - 5 clicks
> LSC - 7 clicks
> ...


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

TheCanary said:


> Rider 200# RTR.
> Air - 131#


Holy cow that is high! And you're getting most of your travel with good small bump compliance?


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

mmckechnie said:


> The retro decals go really nicely with your bike! :thumbsup:


Main reason to upgrade!


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Pau11y said:


> Holy cow that is high! And you're getting most of your travel with good small bump compliance?


TALAS airspring runs about twice the pressure as the float - small bump is amazing, even when set for short travel. My buddy Loving the new Float 36 on his Nomad is running about 58# for the same weight - sag.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

I've been running about 80 psi in my Float 160 for DH duty and jumping and 75 for trail riding. Between 10-14 LSC depending on conditions. I like having the front ride a bit higher, especially for downhill riding. I may try 70 for trail riding, but I don't like a lot of sag on the fork. About 200# ride weigth right now.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

*bushes..*



TheCanary said:


> Main reason to upgrade!


..seal head feels much better


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

Is it possible to lock out the fork via clicks and count back to orginal setting when done?
I would look for this when traveling via Streets.
And what clicker is it LSC or HSC?


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

riding4fun said:


> Is it possible to lock out the fork via clicks and count back to orginal setting when done?
> I would look for this when traveling via Streets.
> And what clicker is it LSC or HSC?


That's what I do. Makes the fork more versatile which is good since the 36 is over kill for some of the local trails and approaches. The knobs are well labeled and the clicks are easy to feel and count, you'd change LSC for more efficient pedaling. I like the TALAS for some of the same reasons.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Anyone know which shimano caliper adapter will be needed for a Saint caliper for a 203mm rotor?

This one doesn't work...kicks the caliper out too far:








This one also doesn't work for Saint caliper. insufficient spacing:








I was thinking of this one, if you sit the caliper on the rotor and rotate it clockwise, you can see this might work:


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Pau11y you need none of the above, shimano does not make the adapter you need.

What you need is a Hope 160mm to 183mm post mount adapter (Mount H from Hope):
Brake Mounts | Hope Tech | Made in Barnoldswick, England

Universal cycles have them in stock I think:
Universal Cycles -- Hope 74mm Adapters


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Rick Draper said:


> Pau11y you need none of the above, shimano does not make the adapter you need.
> 
> What you need is a Hope 160mm to 183mm post mount adapter (Mount H from Hope):
> Brake Mounts | Hope Tech | Made in Barnoldswick, England
> ...


AH! Thanks Rick!

That's the same layout as the Magura QM6 mount...opt-ing for that as there's a $9 difference between the Hope and Magura.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Pau11y said:


> AH! Thanks Rick!
> 
> That's the same layout as the Magura QM6 mount...opt-ing for that as there's a $9 difference between the Hope and Magura.
> 
> View attachment 913919


That won't work I don't believe as its for a 180mm rotor. The hope one works as Hope make a 183mm rotor so need a 160-183mm post mount adapter.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Rick Draper said:


> That won't work I don't believe as its for a 180mm rotor. The hope one works as Hope make a 183mm rotor so need a 160-183mm post mount adapter.


Ah, gotcha...that last 3mm (or 1.5 on the radius). Dammit Sh!tmano!


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

Eh? Just put a washer under the caliper. 

Problem solved.

Accepting donations through paypal.


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## Monster Truck (Sep 17, 2009)

TheCanary said:


> My buddy Loving the new Float 36 on his Nomad is running about 58# for the same weight - sag.


It is true, I am loving the Float 36 160 on my Nomad. I had a Dual Air Pike. It is a nice fork, but the negative air spring kept sucking the fork down (malfunctioning) , so it had to go. I am not looking back. The 36 is better. I have been putting it through the paces on rough and smooth single track. Nothing seems to phase it. Setup is not critical. It is just preference. I started the setup with everything set pretty slow - everything at 10 clicks from slow. It was super supportive and plush and obviously stayed high in the travel. I have been incrementally dialing back the clickers. Now I am at (from full fast- sorry for the confusion, but the numbers are smaller this way) HSC 7, LSC 5, R 6. I may slow the rebound down a bit. But again, at any setting I have tried, this thing just rocks. At these faster settings traction is insane, bumps disappear and a line is so easy to hold. It makes some of my previously tricky trails into a joke. Point and shoot! It still resists diving under cornering loads and does remarkably well with brake dive. It stays higher in the stroke under braking with more LSC (duh), but it tracks better under braking with less LSC. Again, it is trade offs and personal preference. The sweet spot is a mile wide.

I am super happy with the 160 length. If you need more length for the geo on your bike then go for it. If you needed 180mm on a previous fork to get supple feel and bottom out prevention, think about going a little shorter. It is a lot of fork for the length, the travel goes on forever. My $.02.


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## TipofAfrica (May 25, 2011)

It's all sounding pretty good so far. 

So what comes in the box with the new forks? Any travel reducers?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

TipofAfrica said:


> It's all sounding pretty good so far.
> 
> So what comes in the box with the new forks? Any travel reducers?


Here is what you get in the box:

20mm axle,
15mm axle and adapters,
Volume spacers,
Starnut.

No travel adjust spacers.


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## TipofAfrica (May 25, 2011)

Thanks.

Does anyone on here happen to have the dimensions of a Neg Plate Spacer (PN: 234-04-627) so I can machine one myself?


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

Video - Changing Travel 
FOX 36 RC2 - Changing Travel on Vimeo


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

Video - Changing Compression Ratios
FOX 36 RC2 - Changing Compression Ratios on Vimeo


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Does it not make sense to combine the new '15 Fox 36 with the CC Inline? Is this too much fork for not enough shock? Would I be better off (as maybe a Novice/ Intermediate rough trail rider) waiting for a new 34mm front to save some weight?

I am riding bettter and since I have lots of MX experience I'm starting to become very aware of the cheap/ pogo like/ bottoms hard occasionally feel of the stock fork that came on my Bronson. It hinders front end traction.


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

Suns_PSD said:


> Does it not make sense to combine the new '15 Fox 36 with the CC Inline? Is this too much fork for not enough shock? Would I be better off (as maybe a Novice/ Intermediate rough trail rider) waiting for a new 34mm front to save some weight?
> 
> I am riding bettter and since I have lots of MX experience I'm starting to become very aware of the cheap/ pogo like/ bottoms hard occasionally feel of the stock fork that came on my Bronson. It hinders front end traction.


you are talking 36 fork so not really looking to save weight, why not get a cc dbair cs/fox 36?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

mfa81 said:


> you are talking 36 fork so not really looking to save weight, why not get a cc dbair cs/fox 36?


The new 36 is lighter (and obviously superior) than my current 34mm. I am starting to care a great deal about weight actually, but not over performance.

My thinking on the Cane Creek dbair is that it's too much shock for my riding conditions. We have no downhill (that I know of) here in Texas. And when I make it to a park someday, I'll probably just rent a proper downhill bike. So I want my Bronson to just be the ultimate bike for my local conditions, which I think would be considered Enduro.

I don't so much mind the price of the cc dbair, it's just that I would no longer be able to carry a water bottle, it weighs more (I don't love the weighty feel of my Bronson even with a top level build), and then it is more money too. Also, the rep at Cane Creek actually told me that he can do an entire downhill run on the inline shock and not overheat it, so I'm certainly not going to overheat it. Of course the fact that Santa Cruz chose a different valving spec for their cc dbair give me pause because the Bronson specific valving isn't available on the cc inline.

When I ride my bike, the current 34 Fox fork feels like a cheap pogo stick. I'm not impressed with it.

Maybe a used Pike and a new CC inline would be a better match for my application?


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

^^^take a look at the bronson picture thread, there is someone riding the inline and will post some info on the bronson+inline... 

I'm also figuring the pike would be just fine without the extra cost for the upgrade!


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## amxc (Jun 6, 2014)

I'm running mine (26" Float) at 140mm. The neg plate was screwed in with some real gorilla torque, so taking it off to add the spacers was quite an undertaking. Dropping the transfer shaft also required a bit more arm strength than I'd normally feel comfortable with on such a tiny screw.

The fork is mounted on a Blur TRc. I'm running LSC 10 clicks from full open, rebound 8 clicks from full open. Still tuning HSC. I have 1 orange (10.8cc) and one blue (7.6cc) spacer in place, and my initial impression is that the fork may need a little bit more ramp-up given the dropped travel.

The small-bump performance and stiffness are absolutely amazing. I'm changing my 32 FIT Float on my hardtail to the gold oil with the new seals to see how it compares with the new bath lube.

One bummer: my Lunar Bikes fork top cap wrench does not quite clear the crown. Swapping volume spacers frequently looks like it merits grinding a socket.


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

@amxc: are there any pics from your Blur TRC with the 36? Thanks in advance


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Anybody know if the '15 lowers would fit on the old uppers? I'm thinking of updating my old fork w/ a set of 27.5 lowers. It's okay if the travel is reduced a bit from 160 (say 140 or 135) as I'm pairing it w/ a short-shocked (128mm) 650b'd Blur LTc. I know the old 26er lowers will take a 650b wheel, but I'd like to get some Conti TK 27.5 rubber in there and still allow for some mud to clear


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

Suns_PSD said:


> When I ride my bike, the current 34 Fox fork feels like a cheap pogo stick. I'm not impressed with it.
> 
> Maybe a used Pike and a new CC inline would be a better match for my application?


Try a new fork 1st. Plenty of riders have found a new fork actually helps fix shock issues by providing more balance between the two. Is your 34 a EVO or FIT?


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## lankymanc (May 30, 2006)

Ok, here goes 

Float 36 180mm (26" wheel obviously)
Liteville 601 (190mm) - Vivid Air R2C rear

Rider weight - 185lbs
No volume reducers in air chamber
Air pressure 68-70psi
13 clicks out of LSC, 15 HSC
Rebound 2-3 clicks from wide open

Ridden for about 2-3 weeks at home in UK, now "testing" them in Morzine.
I'm a freerider (hate that term), but you won't find me on the doubles/ berms/ braking-bumps etc. I'm in the forest, in the mud, on the steep and rooty/ techy ****. This is where a fork's sensitivity without diving through it's travel is a hard balance to find. So far so good 
It's pissed-it down here for most of the summer, so the mud is at it's finest: Good grip and compliance over the roots, great torsional strength and on the odd occasional where I thought the fork was going to tuck under, it saved my ass from going over my tits.

In comparison to the previous 180 Float (my last set of forks), the improvement is very very good: Had to run higher pressure and virtually no LSC/ HSC on that model to get sensitivity without nose-dive.

highly recommended 
cheers
Ade


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Pau11y said:


> Anybody know if the '15 lowers would fit on the old uppers? I'm thinking of updating my old fork w/ a set of 27.5 lowers. It's okay if the travel is reduced a bit from 160 (say 140 or 135) as I'm pairing it w/ a short-shocked (128mm) 650b'd Blur LTc. I know the old 26er lowers will take a 650b wheel, but I'd like to get some Conti TK 27.5 rubber in there and still allow for some mud to clear


Have not mated them yet but I'll try to measure, originally wanted to do lowers swap on me van, but have to feel the air out (my first 36 air spring). Air won't ever have the same rebound response off the top as coil ( I like almost closed ), but it's very smooth and the RC2 LSR needle this year feels like finer/more range.

Wipers are different this year. From the rings left, I can tell there's lube in there on the first ride..waiting to see how long it takes for stickyness to set in...


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Deerhill said:


> Have not mated them yet but I'll try to measure, originally wanted to do lowers swap on me van, but have to feel the air out (my first 36 air spring). Air won't ever have the same rebound response off the top as coil ( I like almost closed ), but it's very smooth and the RC2 LSR needle this year feels like finer/more range.
> 
> Wipers are different this year. From the rings left, I can tell there's lube in there on the first ride..waiting to see how long it takes for stickyness to set in...


So, as point of reference, I loaded up my '15 36 (29er, 150) w/ two orange tokens and one blue one, running 55psi (25% sag) and getting 90% travel w/ unbelievable supple small bump sensitivity. Reasoning for this is my experience w/ the Pike. I haven't counted the damper setting turns yet; can do that tonight. Ramps up beautifully to plow rocks for my 190lbs kitted up to ride. I haven't hucked it yet, which is why I'm thinking the last 10% in reserves will be ideal.


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

10 reviewers of the 36 so far in this post.


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## amxc (Jun 6, 2014)

randan said:


> @amxc: are there any pics from your Blur TRC with the 36? Thanks in advance











Enjoy the amazingly bad lighting.

It's a hair under 24lbs with pedals and the Trail Kings until it gets a spare tube, pump, and bottle mounted.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

amxc said:


> View attachment 916062
> 
> 
> Enjoy the amazingly bad lighting.
> ...


It's big brother...


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## amxc (Jun 6, 2014)

Looks like a rock-flattening machine!

I ride mostly in Santa Cruz, so the little wheels work really well.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

amxc said:


> Looks like a rock-flattening machine!
> 
> I ride mostly in Santa Cruz, so the little wheels work really well.


Hehehe... CO Front Range is a bit chunky


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## fai (Sep 3, 2004)

Had mine a couple of weeks now. Replaces 2013 RC36 rc2. The difference is like chalk and cheese.


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

Are those 26" wheels


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## fai (Sep 3, 2004)

no 27.5


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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

It is good to see positive comments about the new Fox 36. To be honest after my experience with a 2013 Fox fork I am not that willing to return back but it is good to have options. Even of they are quite overpriced compared to RS for example.


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## harradm (May 6, 2013)

*New 36 on a Bronson*









Much better than the Talas!


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

harradm said:


> Much better than the Talas!


2015 Talas or older unit?


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## harradm (May 6, 2013)

riding4fun said:


> 2015 Talas or older unit?


2014 Talas that the bike came with new.


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

Do you miss the Talas feature?


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## harradm (May 6, 2013)

riding4fun said:


> Do you miss the Talas feature?


Not at all. Only used it once and that was just to test it out. If you climb crazy steep stuff it might be handy but the fork was so bad I would never, ever own a Talas fork again.


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Not sure how to compare forks directly but that has not been my experience at all with my 2015 TALAS FOX 36 160/130 29er.
I use it every ride and, short or long, it out performs the PIKE single air I started with.
It works so good I will never ride without one and would not hesitate to recommend one to my friends.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Had a chance to look at the shim staking in the new 36. Surprisingly simple!


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Getting my first ride on mine today, looking forward to it. But it's on a completely new bike build, so might take a few rides to really get familiar with it.

I set mine up per the starting guidelines in the Fox set guide I found online, with 20% sag.

I will say though, pulling out those 15mm axle inserts was a total PITA. One of mine was stuck, and I complete gouged the hell out of it getting it out. And the 19.5 in/lbs of torque on the axle and pinch bolts really doesn't seem like much at all, but I guess that's compared to Marz's super high torques on their pinch bolt forks, which is what I am used to.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Make sure to check that the dropouts are tight after rides until things settle in, especially the drive side w/ 20mm


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Rode a buddy's new Nomad 27.5 with a Pike on it last weekend. MY '15 36 blows it away in my opinion. Way smoother and more controlled. Pike felt like it had a lot of stiction in comparison, even though it gets praised for its plushness.

In any case, I would recommend a 2015 36 to anyone, every time, no matter what. It's worth the extra cost, IMO. Plus you get WAY more adjustment.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Got a good ride on mine today, man this fork feels stiff. Seems much stiffer than the Pike on my other bike. But I went through some really rough stuff and landed a few things, er, not so well, and I still couldn't get the last 1 1/4" of travel. Looks like I will need to pull the air spring out and take out the factory installed blue token/spacer.

FWIW, its mounted on a Knolly Warden, 66' head angle. I'm about 210 or so geared up, and 75psi gets me right at 20% sag.


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

rscecil007 - can you give any further comparisons to the Pike? small bump/brake dive..better or same?


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

riding4fun said:


> rscecil007 - can you give any further comparisons to the Pike? small bump/brake dive..better or same?


Only one real ride so far, so kinda early to really say. But it seems to be just as plush and wants to stay up in the travel. I didn't notice it diving any, I'll put it that way.


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> Only one real ride so far, so kinda early to really say. But it seems to be just as plush and wants to stay up in the travel. I didn't notice it diving any, I'll put it that way.


isn't the real Q how it feels compared to the almighty Avalanche cartridge? you are coming from a Marz 55 w/ one aren't you?


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> Got a good ride on mine today, man this fork feels stiff. Seems much stiffer than the Pike on my other bike. But I went through some really rough stuff and landed a few things, er, not so well, and I still couldn't get the last 1 1/4" of travel. Looks like I will need to pull the air spring out and take out the factory installed blue token/spacer.
> 
> FWIW, its mounted on a Knolly Warden, 66' head angle. I'm about 210 or so geared up, and 75psi gets me right at 20% sag.


Let all of the air out of the fork and then re-fill, I believe this will fix the problem. I had a similar issue. I am currently using it the parks and I have bottomed it out. I am 185lbs without gear and have 1 blue spacer (which comes with it), and running about 78psi.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

nhodge said:


> isn't the real Q how it feels compared to the almighty Avalanche cartridge? you are coming from a Marz 55 w/ one aren't you?


Well let's be honest, that's not really a fair comparison. That's like comparing a new Mustang 5.0 GT to a Shelby's Super Snake version. I seriously doubt anything would ever come close to an Any tuned fork.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Dude! said:


> Let all of the air out of the fork and then re-fill, I believe this will fix the problem. I had a similar issue. I am currently using it the parks and I have bottomed it out. I am 185lbs without gear and have 1 blue spacer (which comes with it), and running about 78psi.


Wierd, ok I'll give it a try. Any idea what's going on inside there to cause this? I'm guessing if I do this I will also need a few psi more to get the sag correct?

So do I just let the air out and immediately pump it back up? Or do I need to compress the fork completely when I let the air out, then re-fill, etc? I know on the Fox site I watched a video about changing the travel (I think), and they said when you get it re-filled, you need to slowly compress the lowers a little bit a time, for a few times, to get the negative spring to equal out or something.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Dude! said:


> Let all of the air out of the fork and then re-fill, I believe this will fix the problem. I had a similar issue. I am currently using it the parks and I have bottomed it out. I am 185lbs without gear and have 1 blue spacer (which comes with it), and running about 78psi.


Hey Dude, what kind of sag are you running?


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

Pau11y said:


> Hey Dude, what kind of sag are you running?


Around 20%, but this is always for me to measure by myself. I start with the recommended psi and then adjust accordingly. I tend to run my fork on the stiffer side with air pressure and less dampening.

I have been riding this in the parks for the last few days and my hands feel great. I am surprised at how well this fork is handling all of this stuff. I am riding the entire day. It is great on the jumps as well as the technical.

BTW - Ryan told me that letting the air out and refilling did the trick. It is weird magic that is happening in that fork when this happens.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Dude! said:


> BTW - Ryan told me that letting the air out and refilling did the trick. It is weird magic that is happening in that fork when this happens.


Yup, appears to have done it. I told Jamie earlier after I tried it, that by riding and slamming the front down I can get all but the last 1/2" now, and that's with the bottom out almost full open. So I'd guess on the trail that should be about right.


----------



## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Dude! said:


> Around 20%, but this is always for me to measure by myself. I start with the recommended psi and then adjust accordingly. I tend to run my fork on the stiffer side with air pressure and less dampening.
> 
> I have been riding this in the parks for the last few days and my hands feel great. I am surprised at how well this fork is handling all of this stuff. I am riding the entire day. It is great on the jumps as well as the technical.
> 
> BTW - Ryan told me that letting the air out and refilling did the trick. It is weird magic that is happening in that fork when this happens.


Cool thanks.
I run my 29/150 version kind of the other way...soft w/ a good bit of damping, at least the HSC side. LSC is open enough to track small bumps on climbs. I also have 2 orange and 1 blue spacer in, set to about 27% at 52psi. Rebound is pretty open tho.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Pau11y said:


> Had a chance to look at the shim staking in the new 36. Surprisingly simple!


Did you check out the rest,, was the damper assembly model specific to match the 650b vs 29 air spring?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Got a fair bit of riding in on my 36 now and I'm just not where I want to be with the settings still. Its a great fork an tracks amazing but at this moment in time the feel is a mile off.

I have a 170mm 650b 36 and over rough terrain like rock gardens and rock covered I'm just not getting on with it. Im getting bad arm pump through hanging on!

I have tried changing most things and the last one to try is adding another volume spacer. At the moment I have one blue spacer in it and was thinking of adding either another blue one or maybe a orange to start with.

Where are other people at on the 36 setup on a 170mm 650b fork?

I am 190lbs ready to ride and its on a new Nomad.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Deerhill said:


> Did you check out the rest,, was the damper assembly model specific to match the 650b vs 29 air spring?


Just got confirmation that they're not different across the entire '15 36 Floats, unless it was done thru an OE spec.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Rick Draper said:


> Got a fair bit of riding in on my 36 now and I'm just not where I want to be with the settings still. Its a great fork an tracks amazing but at this moment in time the feel is a mile off.
> 
> I have a 170mm 650b 36 and over rough terrain like rock gardens and rock covered I'm just not getting on with it. Im getting bad arm pump through hanging on!
> 
> ...


You and I are about the same weight ready to ride, and I went to the same setup I used on my Pike right away. I had 3 tokens in my Pike, and to mimic it in the 36, I stuck in 2 orange spacers and 1 blue. I'm running 50 to 53 psi on a 29er/150mm fork w/ ~27% sag, for a TB LTc frame. I need to do the (-) spring reset like Dude! was saying as I'm not getting the last 3/4" travel. But other than that, the fork feels pretty damn good.


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Pau11y said:


> You and I are about the same weight ready to ride, and I went to the same setup I used on my Pike right away. I had 3 tokens in my Pike, and to mimic it in the 36, I stuck in 2 orange spacers and 1 blue. I'm running 50 to 53 psi on a 29er/150mm fork w/ ~27% sag, for a TB LTc frame. I need to do the (-) spring reset like Dude! was saying as I'm not getting the last 3/4" travel. But other than that, the fork feels pretty damn good.


Thanks.

I have been doing a bit of research and I have come across this:
2015 Fox 36 RC2: Ridden in Moab and BC - NSMB.com

This part specifically reads exactly how I feel about mine at the moment:
"My first few outings with the new 36 weren't spectacular. It was robust and progressive, but so much so that I wasn't able to bottom it out, even in spots where a front fork should always retract like a poked slug. Sure, it rode high in its travel and in that sense matched what was happening in the back of the Nomad, but the fact that I wasn't able to use all of its travel, and what I did use wasn't feeling groovy meant we clearly hadn't unlocked the fork's setup secrets just yet. Traction wasn't great, either - so we didn't have it dialed for middle and deep stroke hits or for suppleness at the beginning through middle of the stroke."

I have emailed them to see if they can tell me what volume spacers they ran but here are the settings they got to:
Rider weight: 185 lbs.
RC2 spring preload: 63 lbs.
Low speed compression: 9 from closed (of a total of 26 clicks)
High speed compression: 7 from closed (of a total of 23 clicks)

They are running quite a lot lower PSI than I am.


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## argibson (Jul 30, 2010)

I weigh about 175/180 undressed, and am running a 2015 160mm 27.5 solo position 36 rc2 on a 2014 Giant Trance Sx. Currently between 69-70psi for trail riding, with 8 from open rebound, 6 from open hi speed comp, and 7 from open lo speed comp. No tokens. Feels accurate but plush. Love it. Sounds like RickDraper might need to add pressure, take out tokens, and speed up.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Rick Draper said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I have been doing a bit of research and I have come across this:
> 2015 Fox 36 RC2: Ridden in Moab and BC - NSMB.com
> ...


Do post what the reply is on the number of tokens, TIA.


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## argibson (Jul 30, 2010)

My approach to tokens in the pike and 36 is only use if I need to. By this I mean that I use the most psi I can but still use the travel and keep small bump compliance. This way the fork stays more stable and is more accurate. Thankfully the best thing about the pike and 36 is their small bump compliance, so you can run more pressure and still have it be sensitive and have good traction. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Pau11y said:


> Just got confirmation that they're not different across the entire '15 36 Floats, unless it was done thru an OE spec.


Hmm..so lowers swap? 29 to 650b (w/ simple bump stop) would be the icing on the cake.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Deerhill said:


> Hmm..so lowers swap? 29 to 650b (w/ simple bump stop) would be the icing on the cake.


I only asked about the tune, nothing else...like if the CSU/stanchions we the same. You might want to double check w/ Fox on the other stuff.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Here are my settings on 26" 36 RC2 160

Geared up weight - 195-200lb

Factory settings for volume spacers (1 blue I think it is? In any case haven't touched)

*all my settings below are from FULL OPEN (aka clicks "in")

For mellow trail riding:
Pressure: 75 psi
LSC: 8-10 clicks
HSC: 2 clicks
Rebound: 4 clicks

For gravity trails:
Pressure: 78 psi
LSC: 14-16 clicks
HSC: 7-8 clicks
Rebound: 4-5 clicks

Fork is buttery smooth and controlled. Very little dive. Excellent mid stroke. Still good pop off features.

I use full travel only on the BIGGEST of hits. This, IMHO, is how it should be. If I was using full travel just regularly trail riding I'd be wondering why I'm blowing through travel so easily.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

I have removed the volume spacer so I will start with non fitted and I started out setting the fork up sag wise with the damper wide open. I have set it to 20% sag and before I did so I ensured both air chambers were totally empty of air at full travel. At this stage I discovered my fox digital pump (POS) is 50psi out so I went back to my ever reliable rockshox pump.

I have set the damper up exactly as the NSMB settings I posted on the last page. I will report back how I get on with it after tomorrows ride.

I also made this crib sheet of all the settings I could find from people up to now on the new 36. Done for damper settings primarily but I will update it when I get chance to state wheel size and travel. All the settings are clicks out from fully closed.



> Fox 36.
> 
> Fox recommended base settings:
> 
> ...


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

Nice crib sheet!


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Has anyone noticed what seems a small bit of bushing play between the uppers and lowers? 

I noticed today while riding what I though was something a bit loose. Headset is snug, no issues there. I DON'T THINK it's my brakes (Shimano XTR, pads have been known to move around and give the false sense of a loose headset). From what I can tell, it sounds like the seal/bushing area where the play is happening...


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

Update - I weigh between 185-190lbs. I was riding with 79psi (have to look at my other settings) with 1 blue spacer. This has worked well. I occasionally bottom out harshly with this set-up though. I recently switched to the bigger orange spacer at 78 psi. I will see how this performs next. I hope it avoids these harsher bottom outs.


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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

Do you bottom out after big jumps or drops or during regular AM rides?


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

I'm at like 25 percent sag. (60 psi. For my 165 lb body weight) I'm not using full travel, there's like an inch and a half that I'm not using. Slowly opening my HSc which I think is helping. I'm at 5 clicks from fully open. Should I just go a few more clicks? Other than not using full travel the shock feels really good.


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

Paris Galanis said:


> Do you bottom out after big jumps or drops or during regular AM rides?


It is more flattish landing jumps/drops that are on the bigger side. I am hoping the difference between the blue and orange spacer is enough volume to reduce these rare occurrences. When it happens, it is not horrible, but you don't want to repeat it.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

rscecil007 said:


> Has anyone noticed what seems a small bit of bushing play between the uppers and lowers?
> 
> I noticed today while riding what I though was something a bit loose. Headset is snug, no issues there. I DON'T THINK it's my brakes (Shimano XTR, pads have been known to move around and give the false sense of a loose headset). From what I can tell, it sounds like the seal/bushing area where the play is happening...


No play. Check if the dropout bolts are tight. The first compression is getting tougher and tougher to break free though, like strange suction. After that it's butter. I have a feeling it needs a good lube'n


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

So my bushings are slightly loose, had my pal sanity check for me. Called Fox, they said it's find to ride (just annoying) and to send it back when I have a bit of downtime. So NBD really, not keeping me off the bike.

I did take the stock blue bottom out spacer out, and had to bump up my PSI to about 82 (from 72 or so) to get 20% sag. Thing is I had two really solid hard rides since I did that, and still didn't close to bottoming it out on the trail, and that's with the HSC wide open. Seems odd, unless running that high of psi to get the right sag is just keeping me from bottoming?

Personally I'd rather be able to bottom it and dial in some HSC, but maybe I'm still just figuring out the fork.


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

jredling said:


> I'm at like 25 percent sag. (60 psi. For my 165 lb body weight) I'm not using full travel, there's like an inch and a half that I'm not using. Slowly opening my HSc which I think is helping. I'm at 5 clicks from fully open. Should I just go a few more clicks? Other than not using full travel the shock feels really good.


why use any HSC? think of HSC as a bottom out preventing feature. if you're still showing 1 1/2" of unused travel, dial it out completely


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

nhodge said:


> why use any HSC? think of HSC as a bottom out preventing feature. if you're still showing 1 1/2" of unused travel, dial it out completely


Because HSC events can happen in the beginning of stroke...think landing a drop.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Something just occurred to me, and maybe I'm remembering wrong, but I think Craig at Avalanche once told me you want a bit of HSC and LSC dialed in no matter what, that running either wide open affected the performance in some negative way.

Now I might be remembering that wrong, so don't take that as gospel. And I can't remember the specifics surrounding it, in terms of what it did and why you didn't want to do that.


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> So my bushings are slightly loose, had my pal sanity check for me. Called Fox, they said it's find to ride (just annoying) and to send it back when I have a bit of downtime. So NBD really, not keeping me off the bike.
> 
> I did take the stock blue bottom out spacer out, and had to bump up my PSI to about 82 (from 72 or so) to get 20% sag. Thing is I had two really solid hard rides since I did that, and still didn't close to bottoming it out on the trail, and that's with the HSC wide open. Seems odd, unless running that high of psi to get the right sag is just keeping me from bottoming?
> 
> Personally I'd rather be able to bottom it and dial in some HSC, but maybe I'm still just figuring out the fork.


I am sure what's going on with your fork, considering that I am now running 78psi with an orange. The orange spacer is providing more end stroke bottom support.

I know I have more time on the fork than you in the sense break in period and doing laps in the bike park helps this a bunch.

All and all, I really like the fork. I am not sure if I ever get all of its travel. I have about 165mm of stanchion showing and when I would bottom-out harshly (based on feel), I think I used about 155mm of travel. This is a guestimate.

I will confirm my LSC, HSC, and rebound settings and post these later.

There was a good description that I think NSMB provided. This is their analogy. When a door is closed and the room is dark, opening the door a tad (1 click) increased the light by 50%, and each subsequent click has a smaller affect. So the clicks that are near wide open has less affect than the clicks when closed.


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

Pau11y said:


> Because HSC events can happen in the beginning of stroke...think landing a drop.


doesn't matter when it happens. if it happens, it happens. if a drop bottoms out the fork, dial in some compression. if not, don't.

when i was on my '06 Marz Z1 Light i had to use 2 extra clicks of comp. to offset a complete bottom out on about a 3 foot drop @ a trail system where bottom out happened nowhere else. so, i only dialed it in when i was on that one section. otherwise, i was pretty much using it all w/ no harsh bottoming.

Marz didn't then & i still don't think now have separate high & low adjusters, so i always ran a few clicks in from wide open.


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

nhodge said:


> why use any HSC? think of HSC as a bottom out preventing feature. if you're still showing 1 1/2" of unused travel, dial it out completely


Exactly.
I don't use any on my 2013 F160. IMho try and use as little as possible and rely on progression as much as possible otherwise you could introduce spiking.


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

rscecil007 said:


> So my bushings are slightly loose, had my pal sanity check for me. Called Fox, they said it's find to ride (just annoying) and to send it back when I have a bit of downtime. So NBD really, not keeping me off the bike.
> 
> I did take the stock blue bottom out spacer out, and had to bump up my PSI to about 82 (from 72 or so) to get 20% sag. Thing is I had two really solid hard rides since I did that, and still didn't close to bottoming it out on the trail, and that's with the HSC wide open. Seems odd, unless running that high of psi to get the right sag is just keeping me from bottoming?
> 
> Personally I'd rather be able to bottom it and dial in some HSC, but maybe I'm still just figuring out the fork.


IMHO bst to try one thing at atime and strt with the air spring.IMHO best way to tune the air spring is to back all comp off and bottom it on a G out leaning as far fwd as you dare.That way you remove most of HSC influence. In most cases that is as much travel as you will ever use on the trail. Try adding / removing spacers and or air to get a few combinations [ linear and progressive] that will give you near full travel. Now feed in reqd lsc and go ride.If bottoming on the trail either add hsc, but noting any spikes it may introduce, or use a moreprogressive spacer/air pressure set up you found doing the g out runs.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Here's a setup question - for say coming down steep rock faces that has holes or ridges that can stuff a front wheel and send you OTB, would you increase LSC or HSC? Depending on how slowly one comes down such a feature, could be high or low speed... Thoughts?

PS - already running stiff-ish air spring setup - about 15% sag


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

LCW said:


> Here's a setup question - for say coming down steep rock faces that has holes or ridges that can stuff a front wheel and send you OTB, would you increase LSC or HSC? Depending on how slowly one comes down such a feature, could be high or low speed... Thoughts?


Increase LSC damping so the fork platforms, decrease rebound so the fork can sit high in its stroke.
If you're in the steeps with wheel swallowing holes, good chance you're not moving at Mach-looney, and shaft speed is directly related what speed you hit things at.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Pau11y said:


> Increase LSC damping so the fork platforms, decrease rebound so the fork can sit high in its stroke.
> If you're in the steeps with wheel swallowing holes, good chance you're not moving at Mach-looney, and shaft speed is directly related what speed you hit things at.


I'm just wondering depending how quickly one stuffs a wheels into a hole even if moving relatively slowly, where the threshold lies in terms of shaft (stanchion in this case) speed between low and high.

Ideally would be nice to mount a string pot or linear pot and measure it directly


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

LCW said:


> I'm just wondering depending how quickly one stuffs a wheels into a hole even if moving relatively slowly, where the threshold lies in terms of shaft (stanchion in this case) speed between low and high.
> 
> Ideally would be nice to mount a string pot or linear pot and measure it directly


So, my understanding is LSC is on the needle, and HSC is typically on the shim stack. No damper controls the entire flow across the piston...a good portion of the oil flow is passed via a bypass port. Except the Avy bypass port is tiiiiny, so most of the oil actually goes across the shims. And dampers w/ HSC adjustments are typically rim loading the compression shim stack...this is what my DVO is doing, and IIRC, what the Charger damper in the Pike is doing...had a convo w/ Craig at Avy on this over a year ago.

With this in mind, I don't think when your negotiating steep tech at low speeds you'll open up the HSC damping much at all...maybe if you choke down the LSC to almost lockout and you push hard when the front end drops into a bomb crater, and it has a square edge hit in it, would it cause the HSC to open and blow off the hit...? But even w/ all those combos in the most ideal situation, I still don't thing you'll get into the HSC part in the particular situation you cited.

Oh, btw, there is a damper shaft in the stanchion. I think if you think of the stanchion as the damper body, it would be more accurate. But yeah, the stanchion and shaft would move at the same speed.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Good stuff Pau11y - appreciate the feedback


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

LCW said:


> Here's a setup question - for say coming down steep rock faces that has holes or ridges that can stuff a front wheel and send you OTB, would you increase LSC or HSC? Depending on how slowly one comes down such a feature, could be high or low speed... Thoughts?
> 
> PS - already running stiff-ish air spring setup - about 15% sag


It's very rare that HSC needs to be changed on an adjuster, in fact it's usually set fairly conservatively by the manufacturers like Fox, so some chunky rider won't blow the fork up in choppy terrain. If HSC needed to be increased, you'd know because the fork would have slammed to the end of travel on a sharp square edged bump. It would be pretty obvious. Damping increases as the square of velocity, which is why high speed damping is digressive.

Now, chassis stability is usually low-speed control, meaning if it's diving and kind of going "all over the place" it's most likely that it needs more low speed.

Particularly on this page, there seems to be some general misinformation about what is a "high speed" event. It's how fast the damper must move. Most drops and jumps are low speed events, most adjustable compression dampers allow you to adjust low speed compression. You only fall at 9.8m/s^2, and you probably aren't falling 9.8m, but riding at 20mph and hit a 5" vertical face and your fork would be forced to move nearly 5" almost instantaneously, much faster than 9.8m/s.

One thing to think about though, HSC and LSC adjustments do affect each other, even with a fork that truly offers those adjustments (most do not, fox "HSC" adjustment is just preloading the shims, even if you don't have enough HSC, by increasing this you'll make the rest of the travel harsher, instead of just affecting HSC)-if you increase the HSC you will force a little more oil through the LSC circuit, and vice versa, which is why sometimes running no "damping" on the adjusters can lead to some poor traits, but that can be very fork-specific, so you can't necessarily apply it across the line to all manufacturers.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

LCW said:


> I'm just wondering depending how quickly one stuffs a wheels into a hole even if moving relatively slowly, where the threshold lies in terms of shaft (stanchion in this case) speed between low and high.
> 
> Ideally would be nice to mount a string pot or linear pot and measure it directly


The various manufacturers have dynos that figure this out, they also use test rigs that are actually ridden and give telemetry data. Right now a new (to mountain bikes) thing is to put a mid-valve on the bikes, to help the fork isolate braking and g-out events better while still absorbing bumps in the turn or while braking. Theoretically, you could keep making a new valve for each speed range, it just depends on how many speed-ranges you want to have valves for.

I've always heard a lot of people talking about somewhat lackluster forks and shocks and how they "take big hits great", in terms of a jump or drop. The thing is that this kind of damping is usually pretty dead simple and can be provided with a simple oil port. The real trick is usually the high speed circuit and making it interact with the low speed circuit in a way that gives you good low speed stability, while blowing off and absorbing the sharper hits, making it feel better the faster you go. My Avy stuff felt like this and my Pike actually does to a decent extent.

I can feel the difference between the low and high speed stuff just based on how fast the fork/shock reacts. I know the rate of compression for a sharper edged bump would be way too slow if it was the low-speed, but in any case, it's dependent on shaft velocity, not forward speed.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Jayem said:


> ...it's dependent on shaft velocity, not forward speed.


But shaft speed is derived from fwd speed and what you hit, which also means a drop event or a jump landings becomes a high speed event depending on how big you go and what you're landing in. A big high speed air that puts you 15 ft in the air and and 50 ft down the trail, and you over shoot the tranny and land in the flat... I'm thinking the first 50% of you fork's total movement for that impulse is going to be pretty damn fast. Same when you come off a 10 or 12 ft low takeoff speed/near vertical drop to a good tranny. That initial impulse is gonna be pretty fast, then exponetially die off as damping and spring reacts. This is why i said somewhere else (the Pike thread? ) that taking out HSC and only relying on air spring progression is a bad idea, even if you're getting only 90% of travel all the time... no resistance in the beginning, then slam into a wall as the air spring ramps up sharply, followed by snapping your wrist, and then possibly oral surgery to follow.


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## AgrAde (Feb 21, 2012)

rscecil007 said:


> So my bushings are slightly loose, had my pal sanity check for me. Called Fox, they said it's find to ride (just annoying) and to send it back when I have a bit of downtime. So NBD really, not keeping me off the bike.


How loose is slightly loose? Mine are real clunky like a well loose headset, only 4 rides in. I'm taking my new bike back in to the shop tomorrow


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

AgrAde said:


> How loose is slightly loose? Mine are real clunky like a well loose headset, only 4 rides in. I'm taking my new bike back in to the shop tomorrow


With the bike on the ground, it feels like I have a loose headset. And I notice it on the trail constantly.

With the bike hanging from the stand, I can grab the lowers and rock them, and feel it. I really need to send it back, but I don't want to be without it very long. We don't have many weeks of good weather left up here before the rain starts.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Pau11y said:


> But shaft speed is derived from fwd speed and what you hit, which also means a drop event or a jump landings becomes a high speed event depending on how big you go and what you're landing in. A big high speed air that puts you 15 ft in the air and and 50 ft down the trail, and you over shoot the tranny and land in the flat... I'm thinking the first 50% of you fork's total movement for that impulse is going to be pretty damn fast. Same when you come off a 10 or 12 ft low takeoff speed/near vertical drop to a good tranny. That initial impulse is gonna be pretty fast, then exponetially die off as damping and spring reacts. This is why i said somewhere else (the Pike thread? ) that taking out HSC and only relying on air spring progression is a bad idea, even if you're getting only 90% of travel all the time... no resistance in the beginning, then slam into a wall as the air spring ramps up sharply, followed by snapping your wrist, and then possibly oral surgery to follow.


Not really, you need to separate the X and the Y there. Doing a drop AND hitting a sharp rock upon landing would be a high AND low speed event, but your forward speed as far as the drop is concerned is not important. Yes, you can "drop" pretty fast, no, it's not as fast as the fork has to move when you are riding 20mph and hit a 5" vertical rock face. Now, you do have to be moving at a decent clip for high-speed impacts, at 1mph you probably can't get over the threshold no matter what you do because the shaft/damper won't move fast enough, but effectively the speed is left out of this because it's usually fast enough that the impact could be either, and it's entirely possible to have slow speed "impacts" while going way fast, like g-outs, braking forces, weight transfers, small smooth trail irregularities/imperfections.

Shaft speed is not derived from forward speed for low-speed impacts like drops, only for high-speed impacts like sharp square edged bumps, because the bump creates a situation the shaft must overcome (move x amount of distance in a certain time). For the low speed impact (drop) there's no distance the shaft has to travel in a certain amount of time, if the fork wants to it can take 1 second or .1 seconds to compress at the landing. This then becomes about most effectively damping the impact, but think about it like this way, if you jump at 10mph 5 feet into the air and land and then do the exact same event at 25mph, would the impact force not be the same? It would, the fork is only "damping" that vertical movement. It doesn't care or know one is traveling 15mph faster in the forward direction.


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

Is open on LSC and HSC + or -?

Shouldn't I start with LSC and HSC both fully closed and tune from there or is my thinking incorrect?


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## Bradical (Feb 18, 2013)

Hey Punky,

I went with Suspension Werx recommendations.

I start with fully closed, or turned all the way in (-). I'm running both HSC and LSC at 6 clicks out (+) from all the way in (-) with one blue spacer which I will soon change to one orange.
I'm running 35 mm sag which is 20% ...I'm on a 170mm...so perhaps try 30mm sag to get you about 18/19% sag on a 160mm Fork .
Fox Recommends running the 36 RC2's at 15-20 % sag.

F'n Loving my RC2


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

^Good info Bradical
I've got the 36RC2 29 150 coming that I'll be lowering to 140 or 130 for my hardtail.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

@ rscecil007 Yes bush play.. Been fighting the loose axle bolts which cause a similar feel. After jacking around with the air spring spacers to stop bottoming out, I double checked the bushings and they are knocking. It's actually pretty loud now.....*more than my 4 year old 36 van lowers*


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Deerhill said:


> @ rscecil007 Yes bush play.. Been fighting the loose axle bolts which cause a similar feel. After jacking around with the air spring spacers to stop bottoming out, I double checked the bushings and they are knocking. It's actually pretty loud now.....louder than my 2011 van


Well that sucks, sorry man.


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

Jayem said:


> It's very rare that HSC needs to be changed on an adjuster, in fact it's usually set fairly conservatively by the manufacturers like Fox, so some chunky rider won't blow the fork up in choppy terrain..


That may still be the case for Rock shox [Rev 150 air vol still 30% more than F32 150 and HSC still pretty high to counter that] but in 2013 Fox dumped the HSC on the fit cartridges . IMHO[ counter to popular forum feedback], that's why, with a tweak down of the air volume the 2013 F32 are very good on sharp edge hits with natural terrain.

The 2015 appears to have followed that going by the handfuls of HSC that everybody is feeding in?


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

Jayem said:


> .
> 
> I've always heard a lot of people talking about somewhat lackluster forks and shocks and how they "take big hits great", in terms of a jump or drop. The thing is that this kind of damping is usually pretty dead simple and can be provided with a simple oil port. The real trick is usually the high speed circuit and making it interact with the low speed circuit in a way that gives you good low speed stability, while blowing off and absorbing the sharper hits, making it feel better the faster you go.


That's why i could never understand why everybody used to rave about RS Revs ti's. Maybe they all rode groomed, bermed jump tracks. Certainly great for those but the primitive comp design gave too much bar feed back on high speed natural terrain.
Mind you the early F32 fit dampers had way OTT HSC so were just as bad or worse.
That year they started tweeaking up the air volume and I think panicked on the HSC overcompensation?


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

jredling said:


> I'm at like 25 percent sag. (60 psi. For my 165 lb body weight) I'm not using full travel, there's like an inch and a half that I'm not using. Slowly opening my HSc which I think is helping. I'm at 5 clicks from fully open. Should I just go a few more clicks? Other than not using full travel the shock feels really good.


Have you tried removing the blue spacer (stock there should be 1 in there). Since you're so light, removing it (if you haven't already) might allow you to get full travel, without needing to run really low pressure (and too much sag).


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Dude! said:


> Update - I weigh between 185-190lbs. I was riding with 79psi (have to look at my other settings) with 1 blue spacer. This has worked well. I occasionally bottom out harshly with this set-up though. I recently switched to the bigger orange spacer at 78 psi. I will see how this performs next. I hope it avoids these harsher bottom outs.


So what was the outcome from switching out the blue spacer and putting in the orange spacer? Could you run a bit less pressure and still get more progression at the end to prevent bottoming?

Just wondering if putting in a larger spacer (or more small ones) but trying to maintain same bottoming performance, would allow to drop pressure for a bit better small bump compliance.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

FYI, not sure if any of you have read this: http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/air-pike-lowers-psa-929695.html

But Chad from Red Barn posted on page 2 that he tried it with his 2015 36 and worked wonders. I wonder if that might have had anything to do with me not getting full travel...hmm.

Sent my fork back to Fox, they should have it by this afternoon, so we will see.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

PUNKY said:


> ^Good info Bradical
> I've got the 36RC2 29 150 coming that I'll be lowering to 140 or 130 for my hardtail.


How much can those be lowered?



rscecil007 said:


> Sent my fork back to Fox, they should have it by this afternoon, so we will see.


Starting to wonder if the knock is from something else in the fork, rockgarden/chunk or trap the wheel and turn the bars brings it out, still need to strip it down..


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

rscecil007 said:


> FYI, not sure if any of you have read this: http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/air-pike-lowers-psa-929695.html
> 
> But Chad from Red Barn posted on page 2 that he tried it with his 2015 36 and worked wonders. I wonder if that might have had anything to do with me not getting full travel...hmm.


The trapped air thing will show on all forks as the air in the lower legs has nowhere to be displaced to.


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

Deerhill said:


> How much can those be lowered?


Varies based on initial fork travel, and how much you want to lower. FOX site has the full details. Somewhere...


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## maindog (Mar 4, 2014)

PUNKY said:


> Varies based on initial fork travel, and how much you want to lower. FOX site has the full details. Somewhere...


Here: FORK- 2015 36 FLOAT | Bike Help Center | FOX


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

Shoot, hopefully the LBS ordered the tapered 36


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

*did you buy those ?*

The negative spacers look way different than the old ones that just pop on..


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Jayem said:


> The various manufacturers have dynos that figure this out, they also use test rigs that are actually ridden and give telemetry data. Right now a new (to mountain bikes) thing is to put a mid-valve on the bikes, to help the fork isolate braking and g-out events better while still absorbing bumps in the turn or while braking. Theoretically, you could keep making a new valve for each speed range, it just depends on how many speed-ranges you want to have valves for.
> 
> I've always heard a lot of people talking about somewhat lackluster forks and shocks and how they "take big hits great", in terms of a jump or drop. The thing is that this kind of damping is usually pretty dead simple and can be provided with a simple oil port. The real trick is usually the high speed circuit and making it interact with the low speed circuit in a way that gives you good low speed stability, while blowing off and absorbing the sharper hits, making it feel better the faster you go. My Avy stuff felt like this and my Pike actually does to a decent extent.
> 
> I can feel the difference between the low and high speed stuff just based on how fast the fork/shock reacts. I know the rate of compression for a sharper edged bump would be way too slow if it was the low-speed, but in any case, it's dependent on shaft velocity, not forward speed.


Did a little test this afternoon .... Played with the HSC settings (all else kept constant) and hitting a 6" curb square on (@ about 10-15 mph as a guesstimate). Surprisingly there wasn't a TON of difference between HSC fully and fully closed.

Was noticeable but not a huge range. Found the best feel - not too harsh, not too underdamped) - around 6-10 clicks from full open. Didn't seem to be nearly as much range between stiff and soft as the LSC.


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

LCW said:


> So what was the outcome from switching out the blue spacer and putting in the orange spacer? Could you run a bit less pressure and still get more progression at the end to prevent bottoming?
> 
> Just wondering if putting in a larger spacer (or more small ones) but trying to maintain same bottoming performance, would allow to drop pressure for a bit better small bump compliance.


I find that the orange spacer allows for better bottom out performance for my weight. It is nice to know it isn't going to bottom out, based on feel. I think I need to reduce the air pressure a tad, but I basically kept it the same as when I running the blue. I will start doing this next.


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## 8 1/2 (Apr 24, 2011)

How many clicks there are (clockwise) in HSC from full out position (2015 36 Float RC2 27,5")? Turning it all the way counter-clockwise results in a clear end point whereas in the opposite direction there isn't a clear end point after about 20 clicks. Just wondering..


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

I get 22-23 clicks - the last one is like a half click. I think it varies a bit.


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## 8 1/2 (Apr 24, 2011)

Ok, thanks LCW! It just felt kind of "soft" after about 22 clicks when I first tried it and I definitely didn't want to overcook it..so I counted the clicks from that point on


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Anyone know if HBO can still be installed in these new RC2?


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## AgrAde (Feb 21, 2012)

So three out of three guys I know locally with the 2015 36 float 160mm are sending them back due to bush play in the left leg. Mine a 27.5" OEM from Santa Cruz, and two 26" factory ones straight from Fox. I noticed mine 2-3 rides in, another noticed first ride, the third has about 10 rides on it and the least play.

Not really a good sign.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

It's a bummer that it looks like we will all be sending our new Fox forks back in for repair sooner rather than later. 

Anyways, I have several questions for you guys:

1) I'm so effin' confused regarding proper sag. My LBS says to use 30% and they are core, MTBAction says to use 30% in their review of the same forks, Cane Creek says to use 30% on their shock, and my personal experience showed that on my previous Fox 34mm forks I had no front end traction at any less than 30% sag. YET, I look on Fox's website and they tell me to run 15-20% and apparently that's what everyone around here is running. Why such a huge disparity in what sag numbers we should be running on an AM rig? FYI, sag should not be a variable in suspension set up as it sets the geometry of the bike.

2) I can not get decent sag numbers out of my new forks (still yet to be ridden). I'm at 50psi (weigh 183#) and I still only get about 20mm sag. I tried the trick of letting all the air out (bike was dangling at the time, so no pressure on the front end while doing the air empty or refill) and then refilling but no difference. I can't reach my sag numbers. What should I do? Do I just need to ride them for a bit then try setting my sag? Maybe they are just sticky?

3) On Fox's website they recommended setting the HSC at 13 clicks out from full clockwise. Well I only have 12 clicks total!!! I set it at 8 instead to sort of be in the middle. What gives??

Thanks


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

30% sag is a lot for an air fork, despite their best attempts, air forks start off somewhat progressive, then go linear, then end progressive. 30% sag can get you into the linear spring area more and gives the damping that much less travel to work with, leading to more dive, wallow, the fork kind of flopping around, etc. It's usually a fairly fine line between having the right sag and simply an over-sprung fork that bounces off stuff, but 30% sag is a LOT of sag for any air fork. Typically I'd use around 20%, but every fork is different.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Well I have to give it to Fox, they are really trying to be on top the customer service issues. They got my fork Thursday morning, and by Friday night it was already on it's way back to me. I spoke with one of the reps who looked up my warranty order. They replaced the bushings/seals/wipers, serviced it and changed the oil, etc. He said they threw it on a dyno for a few cycles to check the damper and it passed with flying colors, so shouldn't be any issues there in regards to me not getting full travel.

The rep did say that the 20% sag target is a more of a "one size fits all" type of target, and that with the slacker head tube so many bikes have now, it's not unusual to run 25% or even close to 30% to be able to get full travel. He also said he was very surprised to hear about the bushing issues, and did the other two folks I spoke to at one point. And they all seemed sincere and not just giving lip service.

My guess is they got a bad run of bushings or something, which working in production myself I can see happening. To the poster above, my buddy said he thought my left leg had more play than my right, FWIW.

Fork is out for delivery right now, so I plan on getting it mounted up tonight. I'll increase the sag some and see how that does on my next ride.


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

Just got a 15 36 Talas in 26". It replaced a 13 32 EVO Talas. Of course in comparison to that POS it's the best thing since sliced bread. Only got two rides on it so far and still finding the settings, but trails that were Black Diamond to the 32 are Blue/Green to the 36. 
Confidence has gone up, better climbing (not sure how) & now looking for trouble vs. avoiding it are the new choice in lines.


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## Jhal (Oct 26, 2010)

Hello Gents,
I've been a lurker on mtbr.com for quite some time and have never posted in the 4+ years I've been visiting. Well, I purchased the new Fox 36 Talas recently for my older Specialized (2008 Enduro) and thought I'd post a couple pics. I also purchased retro decal kit and retro fitted my Fox Float X CTD with matching stickers. Only had 3 rides on the 36 here on some Utah trails, so still trying to getting it dialed in, but already much better than my previous fork. Believe it or not, I was still riding on the Specialized E150 fork prior to purchasing the 36. Anyways, thanks for all the invaluable info you guys post! I appreciate it!


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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

I am really interested in the Fox 36 and I will most probably order it within the next months. Regarding the sag% it also sounds strange to me to run it with only 20% sag since in all my FS bikes I was always running 25-35% sag especially in long travel forks (170mm). In my HT however I run lower sag% but usually I prefer to set up my forks and shocks based on their actual feeling and performance rather than just a standard sag% that doesn't take into consideration my head angle, the actual travel etc.

Anyway most probably this is a new generation air spring (like the Pike one) so once I receive it I will set it up accordingly.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

MX bikes are going on their 3rd year of running production air forks on several models and it hasn't changed the proper sag numbers off the traditional 30%.

Sag is not used to control suspension performance, bottoming, etc... It sets the geometry of the bike and bikes have an intended geometry that offers the best compromise in handling for their intended usage. I could see running slightly different sag numbers. For instance changing the rear sag on an MX bike by 5 mm (less than 2% change) completely alters the handling of the MX bike and can easily take it from a stable missle to a skittish quick turning bike.

When I first began riding MTBs, man I thought they handled like crap. My Bronson just wouldn't turn. Then a LBS dude told me to go to 30% and what a difference. Frankly, I just think that 90% of the posters are running incorrect sag for an AM rig.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Are you sure the forks are equalising the air chambers correctly? If you remove all the air and then extend the fork fully and cycle within the first 1-5mm of travel it will allow the air in the negative chamber to travel into the positive chamber. It's also important to do this when you fill the fork up from having no air pressure in it.



Suns_PSD said:


> It's a bummer that it looks like we will all be sending our new Fox forks back in for repair sooner rather than later.
> 
> Anyways, I have several questions for you guys:
> 
> ...


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

I have bushing play also, if you jam your finger between the lower arch and the kashima stanchion and rock the bike back n forth you can feel the jiggle. As well through harder hits I feel clacking coming from the fork, I've checked everything, and finally swapped out the fork to make sure that was the problem, which it is. Looks like I'll be sending in also


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

BTW I'm running 70psi (which is about 25% sag depending on how you measure front fork sag, which is kind of difficult to do anyway) and 8-10 clicks in of LSC from open, almost no high speed, and I forget the rebound (lol)


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Rick Draper said:


> Are you sure the forks are equalising the air chambers correctly? If you remove all the air and then extend the fork fully and cycle within the first 1-5mm of travel it will allow the air in the negative chamber to travel into the positive chamber. It's also important to do this when you fill the fork up from having no air pressure in it.


No I have not. So you are saying to remove all air, stretch the fork all of the way out, then to cycle it (fully or just 1-5mm)?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> No I have not. So you are saying to remove all air, stretch the fork all of the way out, then to cycle it (fully or just 1-5mm)?


Stretch the fork fully extended and cycle within 1-5mm of full extension to remove air from the negative chamber. When you refill it do the same but compressing the fork. There are some useful videos on the fox website. I will try and get you a link now.

FORK- 2015 36 FLOAT | Bike Help Center | FOX

Watch the one about the adjusting the air chamber volume towards the bottom but ignore the removal of the air shaft and fitting of the volume spacers. It explains at about 2 minutes in how to correctly fill the fork with air to make sure the chambers equalise.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Yody said:


> ...depending on how you measure front fork sag, which is kind of difficult to do anyway...


Take your calipers and use them to measure something that you can cut to length for your desired sag. I contemplated using chopsticks before settling on a drinking straw that was plenty stiff. I now have one straw cut to 17mm for the shock and one cut to 48mm for the forks that allow me to easily measure sag even in tight spaces.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> Take your calipers and use them to measure something that you can cut to length for your desired sag. I contemplated using chopsticks before settling on a drinking straw that was plenty stiff. I now have one straw cut to 17mm for the shock and one cut to 48mm for the forks that allow me to easily measure sag even in tight spaces.


How do you use the straw, and how is it better than a zip tie around the stanchion?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

smilinsteve said:


> How do you use the straw, and how is it better than a zip tie around the stanchion?


The straw replaces your measuring tape and it's the exact sag amount that I am trying to get to. A measuring tape can be very hard to accurately get in and out of the tight spaces of a bicycle. You still use your O-ring/ zip tye to measure from.

Also, the cut straws are light and easy to carry around to the trails or whatever. But mainly they are full proof and accurate in a way that a tape, they you have to measure from afar, just can't be.


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

Can't believe anyone still uses sag to set up this generation of linear forks. Pressure to get full travel should be the datum.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Jayem said:


> 30% sag is a lot for an air fork, despite their best attempts, air forks start off somewhat progressive, then go linear, then end progressive. 30% sag can get you into the linear spring area more and gives the damping that much less travel to work with, leading to more dive, wallow, the fork kind of flopping around, etc. It's usually a fairly fine line between having the right sag and simply an over-sprung fork that bounces off stuff, but 30% sag is a LOT of sag for any air fork. Typically I'd use around 20%, but every fork is different.


Not to mention how one ends up setting their sag. Obviously, while seated, the sag will be less than standing. But then while standing, you can shift your weight quite a ways between front and back.

I like setting my front sag while standing, with a slight front weight bias, but not too much. Then I slowly sit and set the rear sag (push the o-ring in place). Then I carefully get off and check sag. I'll do it a couple times to make sure I didn't bounce the bike while dismounting.

I'm with Jayem - I'm usually around 20%, but no more. Depending on riding condition or riding style (trail riding, vs bike park, vs racing an enduro), I can be between 15-20%.

BUT... I've got one orange spacer swapped in my 36 to try instead of the stock blue one. Will see how it performs once I get one riding my usual trails, but if I can lower the pressure a bit, and still have good mid to full stroke support and use full travel on the biggest hits, it might be a good way to go. Hopefully a bit better small bump performance.


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

colors were made for that bike..that's awesome!


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

Suns_PSD said:


> The straw replaces your measuring tape and it's the exact sag amount that I am trying to get to.


That's a great idea, I'm doing that next time.


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## Monster Truck (Sep 17, 2009)

LCW said:


> Not to mention how one ends up setting their sag. Obviously, while seated, the sag will be less than standing. But then while standing, you can shift your weight quite a ways between front and back.


When measuring sag, fork or shock, I stand balanced on the pedals. It is the only way I can get consistent measurements owing to the potential front/back movement mentioned above. You end up with less sag on the rear vs sitting, but it is more reliable. For example, on my Nomad standing balanced on the pedals I get 25% sag, sitting it is about 33%, riding it is perfect.

Sag on the 36 is hard to get consistent numbers. Even backing out the rebound and LSC to full fast and being super careful you will still have a couple mm difference. As to what sag %, I think it varies on bike. On the Nomad 25% sag required 50 psi. 50 psi required way too much HSC damping and would require additional volume spacers. The long front end and slack HA transfer more weight to the rear when measuring. I'm running 62 psi now and have stopped measuring sag on the fork. It rides great.

Guess I need to go check for bushing play.


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

Monster truck, I'm using similar air pressure, like 60 psi. What is your body weight? I'm around 170ish with gear.


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## Monster Truck (Sep 17, 2009)

I am 185# without gear, so 195#ish.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

FWIW, got my fork back last night and back on the bike. I re-installed the stock blue spacer to start as a baseline. Geared up I'm about 205, and I'm running about 70 psi, that gets me right at 25% sag.

I measured my sag with my weight centered over the bike, and both HSC and LSC wide open. We'll see how it does today after work.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

gvs_nz said:


> Can't believe anyone still uses sag to set up this generation of linear forks. Pressure to get full travel should be the datum.


The air spring is used to set the geometry of the bike, the valving is used to control how fast it moves.

Sure increasing air pressure will reduce bottoming, but it's also like using an undamped pogo stick for suspension.

That's how I see it anyways.


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

You misunderstood my post. I agree with you to a point . But with latest gen linear forks the air spring is also as important as the damping circuit in controlling the stroke.

My point was you don't use sag as your reference point on a linear fork. You use the endpoint of travel not the starting point as ref. Sure sag is a very rough ref to compare other riders setups. I suspect rider weight/air pressure ratio [ maybe subtract 5 to 10 psi per travel token] is a better guide to other riders.


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

Im installing this on the wagon wheeler.







Appears lowering it is more involved than I would've expected:nono:

Didn't receive any negative plate spacers with it either, so I can't lower the fork, along with not having the damper and cartridge removal tool or slick honey.

Man, some more shopping is in order


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## harradm (May 6, 2013)

gvs_nz said:


> Can't believe anyone still uses sag to set up this generation of linear forks. Pressure to get full travel should be the datum.


Agreed, could care less about sag. I look at using almost all of the travel for a given trail and track air pressure. I might be an idiot but that's what works for me.


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## juice (Feb 8, 2004)

Got mine and have a good couple rides on it, including a trail system where fork setup is difficult, at best. It has slow speed steeps, mid-speed chunder, gaps and a few small drops to flat. I could get the 34 this repalced on my Diamondback Mission 27.5 set up for the nasty stuff, but it felt harsh the rest of the time and I swear it spiked a bit, even though it technically shouldn't. 

The 36 27.5 at 160mm now keeps up with my frame and rear shock. I didn't even think about the fork on the first few rides, which is a great sign.

I agree with everyone above that sag is a really poor way to set up a fork. Too many variables. I set rear sag and pressure the way I like it, and then get the front to feel balanced with the rear. 

I'm running 1 orange + 1 blue token and 82 psi. HSC and LSC are right at Fox's recommended starting points. I'm 205 + gear, so probably 215 on the bike.

I like my fork firm but a bit plush (firm in parking lot tests but soak up the small stuff) and to ride high in the travel with lots of ramp up so I don't bottom harshly on bigger hits. Used all my travel a few times on the shakedown trail, but never harshly. The stiffness difference between this and the 34 is noticeable, and it's a WAY better fork. This new 36 is a great match to this frame which handles my style and size beautifully.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

PUNKY said:


> Im installing this on the wagon wheeler.
> View attachment 924234
> 
> Appears lowering it is more involved than I would've expected:nono:
> ...


You got the 160?
You'll love it; what frame? 
Been running a 150 on a Tallboy LT w/~27% sag, 2 orange and 1 blue token, at 53psi. It's scary how smooth it is after it breaks in!


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

It's the 150 Float. Plan is to lower it down to 140 and run it on my Chromag Surface. It will replace the 34 Talas RLC I had on there for 2 years. 
Need to get negative spacers now


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

Can a Talas 36 use the spacers too?


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Anyone notice that it seems like there isn't a lot of high speed rebound? You can crank the LSR so it feels right, not too slow, not too fast. But if you don't stay on top of it, the fork can unload on you and pop up super fast. Makes for a fun/fast ride but just once in awhile it almost gets away from me. Don't want to slow it down anymore as it feels just right when parking lot testing


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

You might want to have your fork checked. Doesn't sound right. I run 4-6 clicks (from fast or full open) of rebound. No issues with high speed (aka end of stroke ie when fully compressed) rebound. This is with 68-75 psi range (depends if riding trail or gravity/bike park).


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## bkrupp (Apr 21, 2014)

Haven't noticed any fast kickback when close to fully compressed either. Fork is really great for me even with no fine tuning, and feels great throughout travel compression and rebound.

This fork was such an improvement from anything I have ridden I had to order another for my new bike. Will have green retro decals to match my new frame. Choosing to run a 36 float lowered to 140 or 130 over a 34 float, since it is lighter, stronger and probably feels better. Along with the 15/20mm axle choice it wasn't a hard decision to go 36 again. Have 1 - 26" on the Nomad, and will post up the new 27.5" on the new frame when it's all together and ridden at least once.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Oh well definitely not the harsh kick back you'd get like on the older gen forks, that was the worst. Hard to explain on this fork, no big deal really, just seems like good low speed valving, maybe not as much high speed. Who knows. Fork is bad ass, transformed the way the bike feels


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

*Service*

Where are the 2015 RC2 Damper Technical Drawings and service instruction pages?

Who sells the Negative Plate Spacers PN: 234-04-627 ?


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## bkrupp (Apr 21, 2014)

Deerhill said:


> Where are the 2015 RC2 Damper Technical Drawings and service instruction pages?
> 
> Who sells the Negative Plate Spacers PN: 234-04-627 ?


I think they do not have damper service instructions anymore, and recommend having dampers serviced in house.

Call fox if you are in the US and they should be able to sell the part number you need, or tell you to order it through a shop.


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

Fox usually only change the online instructions when reqd, not annually. Should be the same as previous version instructions?


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## ptd (Oct 18, 2012)

Delete
Wrong thread/timeline


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Finally starting to unlock the full potential of this amazing fork...

I've been running pretty firm, about 15-20% sag so far. Old school thinking of needing pressure to keep the fork up and not allow it to blow through. It was pretty good, but felt it could use a bit more plushness and control (and be less tiring) - and get some twitchiness out (aka improve traction I guess).

Well tried something a bit different after reading up on setups. Decided to increase sag to 25-30%. At the same time, to prevent blowing through at this higher sag, swapped from 1 blue to 1 orange spacer. (Fox has made it SO easy to swap spacers, it's awesome!).

My latest setup, which destroys rock gardens, making them feel like velvet carpets is the following. (I'm about 200-205 geared up, and this is on my 575 running a Float X rear).

Front: 68 psi
LSC: 12-15*
HSC: 7
RBD: 4
Volume spacer: 1 orange (10.8cc)

(clicks shown are from full open)

*12 clicks (from open) was great for chunky technical trail (good small bump compliance, plush but controlled). Bumped it up to 15 clicks of LSC for drops (4-5 ft) and steep rock rolls. But not as plush on small stuff, so would click the LSC back down for the rest of the trail.

At first I wasn't sure how it would react on the drops and chunky stuff with that much sag (vs what I had been using). I was expecting wallow and blow through travel (again, old school expectation). Instead I was greated with plushness, control and overall much better ride! This fork just continues to impress me! Used all the travel on the biggest stuff, but never harsh bottom out. Quite amazing, as the fork just soaks it up instead of sending my over the bars lol.

My next step will be to drop a few psi more (68 down to 65) and trying 2 blue spacers (total 15.2cc) instead of the 1 orange (10.8cc). I felt a bit more ramp up with slightly lower initial pressure would dial it in just that tiny bit more. From there on, just a matter of tweaking the LSC for different conditions.

This fork is awesome.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

LCW said:


> Finally starting to unlock the full potential of this amazing fork...
> 
> I've been running pretty firm, about 15-20% sag so far. Old school thinking of needing pressure to keep the fork up and not allow it to blow through. It was pretty good, but felt it could use a bit more plushness and control (and be less tiring) - and get some twitchiness out (aka improve traction I guess).
> 
> ...


Yeah, I dunno why but when I tell peeps to lower pressure and add more tokens... especially in the Pike thread, I get the reaction like I just fed their 1st born to the dingos!?

Anyways, I'm 190 ish kitted up and have 2 orange and 1 blue with about 53psi. No dive/wallow and very nice ramp up towards the end of stroke. I recently opened up the rebound a bit more and got a bit better traction.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Interesting - you've got quite a bit more progressive spring setup. Is this on 26 or 27.5? Travel?

Mine is a 26 160.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

LCW said:


> Interesting - you've got quite a bit more progressive spring setup. Is this on 26 or 27.5? Travel?
> 
> Mine is a 26 160.


29er, 150


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Ok makes sense - with a bit less travel, I'd want a bit more ramp up.


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## 8 1/2 (Apr 24, 2011)

How many spare volume spacers did you have in the box? Mine came with one blue and three orange ones. I'm just wondering do I have only one blue installed or maybe more as I have to lower the pressure to 50-55PSI to use almost full 160mm travel no matter how hard I'm smashing the bike (weight 185lbs)


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

8 1/2 said:


> How many spare volume spacers did you have in the box? Mine came with one blue and three orange ones. I'm just wondering do I have only one blue installed or maybe more as I have to lower the pressure to 50-55PSI to use almost full 160mm travel no matter how hard I'm smashing the bike (weight 185lbs)


With my 650b 170mm fork I got 1 blue and 4 orange in the box and 1 blue installed from the factory in the fork.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

bkrupp said:


> I think they do not have damper service instructions anymore, and recommend having dampers serviced in house.
> 
> Call fox if you are in the US and they should be able to sell the part number you need, or tell you to order it through a shop.


Hope this is not true for 2015.. if required to go through a shop now, or mail fox for "in house" service.. that would be a pretty weak move to pull the drawings. A main reason to get a fox in the past was not needing to go through a shop, and having parts and information readily available so there's no down time for riders


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Deerhill said:


> Hope this is not true for 2015.. if required to go through a shop now, or mail fox for "in house" service.. that would be a pretty weak move to pull the drawings. A main reason to get a fox in the past was not needing to go through a shop, and having parts and information readily available so there's no down time for riders


Other than the different weight of oil and valuing differences the service for the damper will be identical to the old 36's RC2 damper that is on the fox service site.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

8 1/2 said:


> How many spare volume spacers did you have in the box? Mine came with one blue and three orange ones. I'm just wondering do I have only one blue installed or maybe more as I have to lower the pressure to 50-55PSI to use almost full 160mm travel no matter how hard I'm smashing the bike (weight 185lbs)


That's what mine came with. 3 orange (although maybe 4?? I'll have to check) and 1 blue in a bag. Fork had 1 blue installed from the factory. I have a Float 26" version 160 travel.


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## 8 1/2 (Apr 24, 2011)

LCW said:


> That's what mine came with. 3 orange (although maybe 4?? I'll have to check) and 1 blue in a bag. Fork had 1 blue installed from the factory. I have a Float 26" version 160 travel.


You're right! There were 4 orange spacers after all..


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## ultimateweevil (Mar 2, 2014)

Hi guys, my 36s arrive tomorrow so looking for a bit of advice on setup as this will be my first fully adjustable front fork that I'll be having to setup from scratch.

They're replacing a set of X-Fusion Sweeps which I just haven't got on with on my Spitty since day one.

Pau11y I'm quite interested in how your running yours as I'm about 190 kitted up ready to ride as well. What I'm looking to setup is so that I get good traction on the rough stuff like roots and rocks not diving in to the travel under braking like the Sweeps seem to do but also retain plushness and still be able to take medium sized hits easily.

Its 160 650b forks I've got coming, should be a good pairing with my CCDBA.


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

My setup is the following for a 200 lb RTR weight. All clicks are from wide open/full fast.

62 PSI
Low Speed 4 clicks
High Speed 4 clicks
Rebound 7 clicks

Rode/raced Mammoth Kamikaze last weekend on this setup with massive bomb holes in every corner (18-30" braking bumps) and a few 5' drops and only bottomed a few times.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

What are you running for volume spacers?


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## ultimateweevil (Mar 2, 2014)

So forks arrived and the shop had sent 170s instead of 160s. Called to get them swapped and now it turns out Mojo the UK distributor have no 650b 160s in stock so have to wait about 2 weeks to get them now. To say I'm annoyed is an understatement!


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

LCW said:


> What are you running for volume spacers?


Whatever came stock. Have not felt the need to mess with it at all.


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

ultimateweevil said:


> So forks arrived and the shop had sent 170s instead of 160s. Called to get them swapped and now it turns out Mojo the UK distributor have no 650b 160s in stock so have to wait about 2 weeks to get them now. To say I'm annoyed is an understatement!


Why not just lower it to 160? Should be adjustable pretty easily.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Salespunk said:


> Why not just lower it to 160? Should be adjustable pretty easily.


Exactly.
170 has a better travel adjustment in my opinion. 
170 can be lowered to 130
While 160 to 110.
In this 36 I would reather have option to go to 170 or 180 if needed in the future.

Edit: 170 can indeed be raised to 180...
There are basically 2 versions.
110-160
130-180
Each has 6 holes = 6 possible travel options. 0 - 5 spacers are used based on the travel.


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

Plus the 170 can be raised to 180 as well


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## ultimateweevil (Mar 2, 2014)

Not sure how easy it is tbh and paying nearly £900 for forks I'd rather get the ones I'd ordered. I'm sure it'll be worth the wait! I just felt like a kid who'd been expecting the latest toy at Xmas to open it and it's something else, I even left work early today after the Mrs text me to say they'd been delivered, so imagine my disappointment.

It's a good job I've not sold on the Sweeps yet so I can still ride the bike in the meantime, so it's not all bad.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

ultimateweevil said:


> Not sure how easy it is tbh and paying nearly £900 for forks I'd rather get the ones I'd ordered. I'm sure it'll be worth the wait! I just felt like a kid who'd been expecting the latest toy at Xmas to open it and it's something else, I even left work early today after the Mrs text me to say they'd been delivered, so imagine my disappointment.
> 
> It's a good job I've not sold on the Sweeps yet so I can still ride the bike in the meantime, so it's not all bad.


Man, you already have the better option of the 2. Just go ahead and lower it to 160...


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

jazzanova said:


> Man, you already have the better option of the 2. Just go ahead and lower it to 160...


Ditto. I've thought more than once that I should have done this, and gone with a 170 lowered to 160...


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

Yeah if/when I go with a 160mm bike I'll go with the 180 fork. Right now I've got the 150 RC2 29er lowered to 140 for the hardtail.


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## ultimateweevil (Mar 2, 2014)

Well it's already on it's way back so I guess I'll have to wait for the 160 now anyway. Wish I'd posted earlier now


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## Starkhünd (Dec 13, 2013)

Just finished my build today, going to dial it in tomorrow :thumbsup:
20mm Chris King Hub and a 203mm Saint rotor


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## kodo28 (Apr 21, 2012)

Starkhünd said:


> Just finished my build today, going to dial it in tomorrow :thumbsup:
> 20mm Chris King Hub and a 203mm Saint rotor


Nice :thumbsup:...which adpater did you used for the saint and 203mm rotor ?


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## Starkhünd (Dec 13, 2013)

It's a Shimano


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## kodo28 (Apr 21, 2012)

Starkhünd said:


> It's a Shimano


...I was looking at the Fox Kit 820-09-009 but if the Shimano does the job


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Just use this Hope adapter:
Hope Post to Post Disc Brake Adaptor | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## cmrocks (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi,

Considering the Fox 36 and the Pike for my Bronson. Leaning towards the Fox at the moment because it seems like a better fork for descending and the AtC height is a bit shorter than an equivalent Pike; installing a 160 Fox will keep me closer to stock geometry than the 160 Pike will.

Anyway, just a couple questions:

1. How annoying is the lack of quick axle release? I transport my bike in the trunk of my car so the front wheel comes off frequently. I don't mind keeping an allen key in my riding pack but do the pinch bolts need to be evenly or accurately torqued or anything like that?

2. Climbing? I have the Fox 34 CTD now and I do use the climbing switch on long, sustained climbs. I don't use it on quick, mid-trail climbs. Looking at the fork, it appears that the LSC adjustment is on top of the fork leg and easily accessible. Is it equally effective to just dial in say 10 more clicks of LSC for a long, sustained climb?

Thanks


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## Starkhünd (Dec 13, 2013)

I have a XO1 34 ring on my bike and use it to pedal up some pretty long steep roads, 6-8 km for periodization training purposes until my Canaondale quick carbon comes in . I use the climb switch on my shock, but the front end is firm when doing so, HSC 11 - LSC 18 - Rebound 5. I switch from seated 1min 3/10 energy to hard out of the saddle push 8/10 90 sec sets. I am not a suspension guru by any means but I have been on Talas set ups and I feel I am not missing out. I haven't fiddled with the dials while climbing to answer your question, but this week I will. I spoke with Avalanche many times before I made my purchase, and they urged me to stay away from Talas forks, They said the volume that the Talas needs takes away performance of your fork, a proper set up fork you should not need a Talas set up. Avalanche will wait for Fox to come up with an update if one is needed before they invest in one for the new 36. The Pike has been out on the market for awhile now and is a great fork, but it does have it's flaws, Phone Ava and they will go through it in much better detail then I'm describing, I am new to the sport and consulted with them before my build. their advice was to go with a 36. Currently they do not offer a cartridge kit for the fork, there is one for the Pike, which they say drastically improves the performance.


----------



## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

cmrocks said:


> Hi,
> 
> Considering the Fox 36 and the Pike for my Bronson. Leaning towards the Fox at the moment because it seems like a better fork for descending and the AtC height is a bit shorter than an equivalent Pike; installing a 160 Fox will keep me closer to stock geometry than the 160 Pike will.
> 
> ...


Lack of QR is not a huge deal to me. Takes an extra 60 seconds to pull the front wheel, but just keep a 5 mm in your trunk and you should be good. The lack of a climb switch does bother me a little, but only because I can't use it when trying to out sprint my buddies up paved roads. Other than that it has been a non issue for me.


----------



## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Ran the Pike for a few months then switched to the Fox 36 TALAS 29er 160mm. Happy with the switch. I think the TALAS is even more helpful than the climb switch on steep climbs as its not just about pedal bob but also the geometry change you get dropping the front. Fork has a great feel in either setting. Adding LSC is easy for long approaches if you want. The floating axel doesn't take long but you need to be meticulous about having it settled and not over tightening the pinch bolts. Adjustability of the RC2 was easier for me to dial than the Pike.
Overall both great forks, the features and feel of the Fox win for me but it's close. I use a hitch rack.


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

QR is a non-issue for myself. Took the wheel off the 34 about a dozen times in the 2 years I had it. Swap tires/swap brakes/swap wheels/new 36. I hitch rack the bike, but can lay it in the back if need be. 

34 TALAS RLC I used the lockout thing less than six times during my ownership. 

According to the suspension wizards the TALAS 5 cart is FLOAT smooth now. No sticky ness. 
I'll be picking up and installing my 36 tomorrow. Hopefully get a night ride in on it too!


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

cmrocks said:


> Hi,
> 
> Considering the Fox 36 and the Pike for my Bronson. Leaning towards the Fox at the moment because it seems like a better fork for descending and the AtC height is a bit shorter than an equivalent Pike; installing a 160 Fox will keep me closer to stock geometry than the 160 Pike will.
> 
> ...


If you're worried about climbing and lack of QR - the 36 is probably not for you. A 34 or a Pike would be a better choice.


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

The FLOAT 36 RC2 is the hype! Just got back from my first ride on it. I need to spend some proper time setting the fork up, but it feels good so far.


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## lucifuge (Jul 1, 2011)

I have a Giant Trance Adv SX which has the Fox 27.5 34mm Talas 140/160. 

What are the chances a 36mm 27.5 Talas Rc2 130/160 would fit as an upgrade? If 'yes' ...forgive my ignorance but is it simply an easy swap over or will I Giant/steerer issues I need to address? (I gather the 15mm axle I have is no problem with the conversion kit)


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## kodo28 (Apr 21, 2012)

lucifuge said:


> I have a Giant Trance Adv SX which has the Fox 27.5 34mm Talas 140/160.
> 
> What are the chances a 36mm 27.5 Talas Rc2 130/160 would fit as an upgrade? If 'yes' ...forgive my ignorance but is it simply an easy swap over or will I Giant/steerer issues I need to address? (I gather the 15mm axle I have is no problem with the conversion kit)


There will be no issue at all. 
It is an easy swap...remove your old one, cut the new one at the same steerer length if you feel ok with old length and that's all. 
The 15mm axle wont be a problem , new Talas comes with conversion 15/20mm kit. (15mm is mounted by default)


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## lucifuge (Jul 1, 2011)

cheers

The standard 34mm is a big improvement over previous versions, BUT small bump compliance is poor. With a hand injury I want that part resolved.



kodo28 said:


> There will be no issue at all.
> It is an easy swap...remove your old one, cut the new one at the same steerer length if you feel ok with old length and that's all.
> The 15mm axle wont be a problem , new Talas comes with conversion 15/20mm kit. (15mm is mounted by default)


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

VvV


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

lucifuge said:


> cheers
> 
> The standard 34mm is a big improvement over previous versions, BUT small bump compliance is poor. With a hand injury I want that part resolved.


I believe your Trance SX has OverDrive2 (1-1/2<->1-1/4 taper)steertube

You'll need a new upper headset cup and a new stem to go with the FOX 36 standard taper (1-1/2<->1-1/8)


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

LCW said:


> If you're worried about climbing and lack of QR - the 36 is probably not for you. A 34 or a Pike would be a better choice.


I cranked up the LSC on my 36 the other day for a big out of the saddle pavement climb and it was great. I was thought I was going to miss the lockout as well, but it was a non issue.


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

Easy solution. Get to the top of a climb and back off the LSC to your set point. 

This season I've been playing around with suspension more so than before, so I record settings and changes into my iPhone.

Lock-out levers are for people trying to win races.


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## kodo28 (Apr 21, 2012)

PUNKY said:


> I believe your Trance SX has OverDrive2 (1-1/2<->1-1/4 taper)steertube
> 
> You'll need a new upper headset cup and a new stem to go with the FOX 36 standard taper (1-1/2<->1-1/8)


Right forgot to mention the upper head bearing :thumbsup:...for the stem, you don't need a new one to swap, just need a shim adapter...


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

kodo28 said:


> Right forgot to mention the upper head bearing :thumbsup:...for the stem, you don't need a new one to swap, just need a shim adapter...


Please don't. Just buy a new stem. $100 is cheap insurance.


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

lucifuge said:


> I have a Giant Trance Adv SX which has the Fox 27.5 34mm Talas 140/160.
> 
> What are the chances a 36mm 27.5 Talas Rc2 130/160 would fit as an upgrade? If 'yes' ...forgive my ignorance but is it simply an easy swap over or will I Giant/steerer issues I need to address? (I gather the 15mm axle I have is no problem with the conversion kit)


Overdrive 2? You'll need a different top bearing...


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## InstigatorX (Sep 17, 2014)

LCW said:


> My next step will be to drop a few psi more (68 down to 65) and trying 2 blue spacers (total 15.2cc) instead of the 1 orange (10.8cc). I felt a bit more ramp up with slightly lower initial pressure would dial it in just that tiny bit more. From there on, just a matter of tweaking the LSC for different conditions.
> 
> This fork is awesome.


LCW... How did 2 x BLUE work out? I just installed a 27.5 160mm on my Bronson and totally digging this fork. Had the basic 34 Evolution previously.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

I'm running 2 blue spacers and prefer it over 1 orange spacer. Just a bit more progressiveness of the air spring curve. Can run a bit more sag and not bottom out. Small bump compliance is improved and bike is super controlled through chunky rock gardens. Really digging it this way. Should have tried this sooner!


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## InstigatorX (Sep 17, 2014)

LCW said:


> I'm running 2 blue spacers and prefer it over 1 orange spacer. Just a bit more progressiveness of the air spring curve. Can run a bit more sag and not bottom out. Small bump compliance is improved and bike is super controlled through chunky rock gardens. Really digging it this way. Should have tried this sooner!


Thanks...I'm gonna give 1 x ORANGE a try and see how that goes. Will toy with 2 x BLUE after that. Just need to get my 32MM socket un-chamfered (e.g. ground down flat).


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## 2wls4ever (May 11, 2006)

The crown to axle height is lower on the 36 than a 34. Most EWS racers are running the 36 at 170mm. I would try it at 170mm


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

InstigatorX said:


> Thanks...I'm gonna give 1 x ORANGE a try and see how that goes. Will toy with 2 x BLUE after that. Just need to get my 32MM socket un-chamfered (e.g. ground down flat).


the 2 x blue spacers is working great for me so far. In fact, I might notched it up a bit for a bit more ramp up, with 1 x blue + 1 x orange.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Sent mine back today to check for loose bushings


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## InstigatorX (Sep 17, 2014)

I am getting wicked brake dive with this fork. I'm running 1 x ORANGE spacer and anywhere from 66 - 83 PSI (trying to figure out if sag is playing a role). I've tried with LSC and HSC fully closed (clockwise) and open. I'm running a simple test on the street where I hit front brake really hard and it compresses way more than my basic Evolution fork.

On a side note, I had a big wipe out last week where I can't remember 10 mins before crash and about 50 mins after (after riding another mile or so down more singletrack to my car, loading bike, and driving myself to emergency room...don't remember any of that). I have the vague recollection of feeling a real good landing and then the crash...and I think it was the fork diving on me and launching me or something.

Am I missing something on my setup? More spacers? Too little oil? Fork is/was brand new.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

InstigatorX said:


> I am getting wicked brake dive with this fork. I'm running 1 x ORANGE spacer and anywhere from 66 - 83 PSI (trying to figure out if sag is playing a role). I've tried with LSC and HSC fully closed (clockwise) and open. I'm running a simple test on the street where I hit front brake really hard and it compresses way more than my basic Evolution fork.
> 
> On a side note, I had a big wipe out last week where I can't remember 10 mins before crash and about 50 mins after (after riding another mile or so down more singletrack to my car, loading bike, and driving myself to emergency room...don't remember any of that). I have the vague recollection of feeling a real good landing and then the crash...and I think it was the fork diving on me and launching me or something.
> 
> Am I missing something on my setup? More spacers? Too little oil? Fork is/was brand new.


Body Weight?

Picture of bike?

Could be rear shock settings, my 36 doesn't dive at all, has lots of midstroke support. One of the key features of the fork IMO. I'm 180 run 68 psi, 9 click from open compression, barely any hsc


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## InstigatorX (Sep 17, 2014)

Yody said:


> Body Weight?
> 
> Picture of bike?
> 
> Could be rear shock settings, my 36 doesn't dive at all, has lots of midstroke support. One of the key features of the fork IMO. I'm 180 run 68 psi, 9 click from open compression, barely any hsc


I'm about 210 geared up. Bike is Bronson with Float X CTD rear shock. Went to bike store between last msg and now. Didn't think there was anything wrong with fork. Suggested mid point on HSC and 1-2 clicks from closed on LSC. Also thought my front brakes had too much stopping power for the setup. Suggested filing some of pad off to shave some stopping power off. I am running Guide RSC with 203mm rotor up front. The owner\tech seems to know his stuff.

Any thoughts?


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

InstigatorX said:


> I'm about 210 geared up. Bike is Bronson with Float X CTD rear shock. Went to bike store between last msg and now. Didn't think there was anything wrong with fork. Suggested mid point on HSC and 1-2 clicks from closed on LSC. Also thought my front brakes had too much stopping power for the setup. Suggested filing some of pad off to shave some stopping power off. I am running Guide RSC with 203mm rotor up front. The owner\tech seems to know his stuff.
> 
> Any thoughts?


If you're that heavy (on a correct pump guage) I'd say you should be running near 75-80PSI. The spring is whats supposed to hold your weight and then use the compression to dial things in. Having to turn your low speed compression that high is no good and shows something is way off.

Another problem is how you're determining dive. Parking lot brake slam trials is not correct way. Need to go ride the bike on a good trail a few times and find key spots that replicate different scenarios. First run your low speed all the way off and get a decent sag/psi setting. Then dial in LSC. Any bike will dive if you weight the frontend and then slam on the brakes. I'm running the new Guide RSC's as well with 7/6" combo


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Make sure your rebound on your shock isn't set ridiculously fast or something incorrect (spring rate way too high) and making the rear unload too quickly. Im not a fan of slow rebound settings but you definitely don't want the shock wide open on rebound

You might need another air spring token, but only if you're using all the travel way too often. Also heavier riders need more air volume for more mid support. Adding a bunch of spacers you would end up dropping the psi which will make it more compliant but not bottom out as easy. You need more volume it sounds like, for more mid stroke support. Then dial in some HSC to help with bottoming.


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## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

having similar problem - maybe after a hard bottoming out, or maybe after letting fork get cold (28 °F)? 

"Stretch the fork fully extended and cycle within 1-5mm of full extension to remove air from the negative chamber."

can you clarify these directions please? I should let all air out, then stretch to full extension, then push back down all the way and back up again to within 1-5 mm of full extension - should I be holding valve open when cycling back down and close it off when stretching it back up? How many cycles do I do? I tried it once and did not get the air out of negative chamber - should I remove top cap? thanks!!


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## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

so I tried the squeezing all the air out, cycling it fully and squeezing even more air out - but it still seems to be having too much negative "pull" - it used to be, for 4 months (got mine on July 2nd) with only 40 psi (I'm a lightweight) the stanchions would fully extend - couldn't even pull 'em out more than maybe 1 mm --- now even up to 60+ psi, I can pull them back out 5 mm after compressing fork while standing aside. I did the proper method of recompressing after refilling air chamber up to 60 psi, very slowly compressing a few mm several times to get the air back into the negative chamber, like the video shows.
Do I take the top cap off and there's a needle valve or something to release all the negative air pressure? No idea. thanks!


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

rshalit said:


> so I tried the squeezing all the air out, cycling it fully and squeezing even more air out - but it still seems to be having too much negative "pull" - it used to be, for 4 months (got mine on July 2nd) with only 40 psi (I'm a lightweight) the stanchions would fully extend - couldn't even pull 'em out more than maybe 1 mm --- now even up to 60+ psi, I can pull them back out 5 mm after compressing fork while standing aside. I did the proper method of recompressing after refilling air chamber up to 60 psi, very slowly compressing a few mm several times to get the air back into the negative chamber, like the video shows.
> Do I take the top cap off and there's a needle valve or something to release all the negative air pressure? No idea. thanks!


Have you used a ziptie to remove the pressure in the lowers? That did it for me and is the first place to start.

The other issue may be a clogged port to the negative air chamber. Try pumping the fork up pretty high to get it fully extended. Then ride it around the street for a few minutes and bounce up and down HARD. Just pick up the front wheel and slam it down a 10-15 times. Then take the pressure back down to normal and bounce around again. This should help clear the port.


----------



## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

ziptie?? no idea where or what this means.

how high a pressure to unclog - and how would the port become clogged? I recently changed the oil - all this happened about 10 days after the oil change. I'm wondering if I bottomed out too hard or else maybe the temperature where my bike was stored dropped to 28 °F? thanks.


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## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

so I took the top cap off and pulled the needle valve all the way out and did hear a little more air come out, and it now seems a bit better, but still not as it was a few daze ago before this happened - stanchion still not extending out all the way back with even 50 psi


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## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

tried the pump up to 95 psi and bounced hard down the street - made it worse. After that, I again let all air completely out, compressing to get remove every last molecule, and again took top cap off and pulled the shaft out and heard even more air come out than the first time. Pumped it up again, equalized pos and neg air chambers and still the stanchions staying in about 5 mm with 60 psi. Something not right.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Anyone losing @ 5mm travel or more? Used to be able to fully compress the thing with all the air removed (air purged from lowers too)..now it bottoms before full travel


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

rshalit said:


> ziptie?? no idea where or what this means.


Stick a ziptie down the forks wiper seal. The lowers can build up air pressure and in effect they stop the fork from being able to fully compress. Sticking a ziptie through the wiper seal (between the seal and the stanchion) will let any excess air escape.


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

And the pressure can be negative or positive in the lowers. If it is negative it will hold the fork down.


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## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

that's right about where all my past and present Floats, including my 2015 36/160 bottom out - 5 mm is about halfway between the letter ->*K*<- on the top of the stanchion. My problem is the stanchions no longer retract fully after compressing while standing on the ground, compressing and lifting tire quickly off the ground.



Deerhill said:


> Anyone losing @ 5mm travel or more? Used to be able to fully compress the thing with all the air removed (air purged from lowers too)..now it bottoms before full travel


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

That is correct. Full travel is just above the Kashima writing. It does not bottom on the crown like Rockshox.


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

I was told the same. Your fork will have 10mm more stanchion exposed than the travel it is set to


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

PUNKY said:


> I was told the same. Your fork will have 10mm more stanchion exposed than the travel it is set to


Not 10mm, 5mm at most IMHO.


----------



## Grizzy (Sep 12, 2009)

InstigatorX said:


> I'm about 210 geared up. Bike is Bronson with Float X CTD rear shock. Went to bike store between last msg and now. Didn't think there was anything wrong with fork. Suggested mid point on HSC and 1-2 clicks from closed on LSC. Also thought my front brakes had too much stopping power for the setup. Suggested filing some of pad off to shave some stopping power off. I am running Guide RSC with 203mm rotor up front. The owner\tech seems to know his stuff.
> 
> Any thoughts?


I think the crash probably wasn't entirely due to the fork unless it's got a defect.

Running HSC super high gives a wierd feel off jumps. It's like it sinks and then tries to pop last minute on the lip.

The bike shop setup is wrong. Like Rick said - run more LSC and less HSC. My setup is:
HSC: 4 clicks in from fully closed
LSC: 1 click in from fully open
Stock spring curve

Give that a try.


----------



## InstigatorX (Sep 17, 2014)

Yody said:


> If you're that heavy (on a correct pump guage) I'd say you should be running near 75-80PSI. The spring is whats supposed to hold your weight and then use the compression to dial things in. Having to turn your low speed compression that high is no good and shows something is way off.
> 
> Another problem is how you're determining dive. Parking lot brake slam trials is not correct way. Need to go ride the bike on a good trail a few times and find key spots that replicate different scenarios. First run your low speed all the way off and get a decent sag/psi setting. Then dial in LSC. Any bike will dive if you weight the frontend and then slam on the brakes. I'm running the new Guide RSC's as well with 7/6" combo.
> 
> ...


Who you calling heavy?!  Thanks for advice...will report back in a few days.



Grizzy said:


> I think the crash probably wasn't entirely due to the fork unless it's got a defect.
> 
> Running HSC super high gives a wierd feel off jumps. It's like it sinks and then tries to pop last minute on the lip.
> 
> ...


Will do. Thanks for the advice!

I'm sure the crash had more to do with my ability than the fork.  Just wish I could remember what happened. Went back to the scene of the crime and still a big blank in my head.


----------



## LCW (May 5, 2008)

InstigatorX said:


> Thanks...I'm gonna give 1 x ORANGE a try and see how that goes. Will toy with 2 x BLUE after that. Just need to get my 32MM socket un-chamfered (e.g. ground down flat).


I tried one more step by going 1 x blue and 1 x orange. After a couple rides, I find it ramps up a bit too much and feels harsh deep in the stroke. So back to 2x blue spacers. That's the sweet spot for me.


----------



## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

Rick Draper said:


> Not 10mm, 5mm at most IMHO.


That was direct from SWerx


----------



## InstigatorX (Sep 17, 2014)

Grizzy said:


> I think the crash probably wasn't entirely due to the fork unless it's got a defect.
> 
> Running HSC super high gives a wierd feel off jumps. It's like it sinks and then tries to pop last minute on the lip.
> 
> ...


One thing I just noticed is that 1 click from fully open on LSC seems really sensitive and compliant. Sounds like you're lighter than me and/or don't have long climbs. Gonna ride and session a loop today and see what I come up with.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Picked up a base setup from a shop with close ties to the UK Fox distributor for a 170-180lb rider.

All settings from fully closed:

2 blue volume spacers,
20% sag,
HSC 20 clicks,
LSC 12 clicks,
Rebound 13 clicks.

Going to throw another blue spacer in mine on Friday and try it. Still trying to unlock the full potential of it.


----------



## LCW (May 5, 2008)

I find 2 blue spacers to be the ticket in mine 26" 160). But I'm like 200 geared up.

I run about 67 psi to get 20% sag. From full open I run 0-6 clicks HSC, 10-16 clicks LSC, depending on riding (trail riding vs gravity/jumping), and 5-6 clicks rebound - again from full open.

I feel for I've finally unlocked its potential. Playing with spacers is key and so easy with the 2015.


----------



## lankymanc (May 30, 2006)

I too, after much fiddling around, have found 1 orange spacer to be correct with about 75 psi. (195 geared-up)

LSC- 12 from closed
HSC - 3 from open
Reb - 4 from open

However...

The shortened axle-crown length and reduced offset compared to last year's fork as really altered the handling of my bike (Liteville 601 mk2)

Why have Fox shortened the 180mm 26" model? The previous version was a great alternative to a full-on DH fork as it didn't alter the geometry, now it does...

That aside, they are a superb set of forks!


----------



## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Anyone seen any signs of the promised direct mount fenders yet?


----------



## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

rshalit said:


> that's right about where all my past and present Floats, including my 2015 36/160 bottom out - 5 mm is about halfway between the letter ->*K*<- on the top of the stanchion. My problem is the stanchions no longer retract fully after compressing while standing on the ground, compressing and lifting tire quickly off the ground.


Did you measure 160mm when you got the fork new? Could be a spacer installed that you could remove. If not that sounds like the negative air spring.. the problem I was having was bottoming w/ @ 10mm left, however today I let all the air out and took the footnut off to burp the lowers again. Just got back from a ride and now it's back to full travel for sure (fork rips). The knock is back though.. @ yody was your knock fixed?


----------



## ando260 (Nov 8, 2014)

Does anyone know if it is possible to convert the 2015 36 from a Talas to a Float?


----------



## Muttonchops (Jul 16, 2004)

Heads up....Been riding mine since October. 10 - 15 rides max.

Checked the fluids y'day and ZERO oil came out the air spring side.

The damper seemed fine and the oil was good and clean.

Dont delay checking your new fork - !


----------



## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

so here's something new: Fox just replaced my 26" 2015 36/160 Float RC2 -- and the positioning of the word "Kashima" printed on the new fork's stanchion is a good centimeter lower than it was on the identical fork I bought in July. 

Anyway, it bottoms out close to 1 cm from the top - I measured and the total travel is exactly 160 mm from bottom to where o-ring stops at top. 

btw, I've had a lot of Fox forks, not only is this Float the very best fork they've ever produced, can't even compare it to others it is so different, but their warranty customer service has improved enormously, as well!


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Had an issue on the trail today with my fork, felt like it was a bit soft and just a tad off in general. Checked it out when I got home, and sitting on the ground I only had 150mm of stanchion showing (this is a 160mm version.) 

The only thing I've done, is I let all the air out of it the other day to see where the bottom out point was. At that point, I just pumped it back up to 65psi (what I have been running), then compressed it ~5mm at a time until the two chambers were equalized.

Previously to checking the bottom out point I know I had 160/165mm of stanchion showing. So I'm guessing since I aired it up with it sitting on the floor, somehow it created a vaccuum in the negative spring and that in turn is pulling the stanchions down a bit. Lifting the bike off the ground I could push the lowers down to expose more stanchion, but they immediately sucked back up.

Tomorrow I'll hang it from the stand so there is no weight on it, let all the air out, and re-pressurize it as I've done before.

Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this, and if my theory sounds feasible?


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## endy (Nov 11, 2014)

Stuck on my choice of forks for a build of a 2014 Santa Cruz Bronson Carbon frame.

I've kept it modest so far (Mavic Crossroc wheelset, Shimano XT groupset, Easton carbon bars) but want a nice front shock.

Deciding between these FOX forks or a Pike.
FOX Racing Shox 36 FLOAT 27.5 160 RC2 FIT Fork - 2015 | Backcountry.com
FOX 34 stealth
FOX Racing Shox 34 Float 27.5 160 CTD FIT Fork -Stealth Limited Edition - 2015 | Backcountry.com
FOX 34 (2014 40% off)
FOX Racing Shox 2014 34 Float 27.5 160 CTD | Backcountry.com

RIDING: Daily riding is Washington DC area XC like Fountain Head and Wakefield. I've been on a hardtail but it just beats me up too much and isn't always as fun.
I will spend a month in CO/UTAH/NEVADA this year (moving back in 2 years) and want to go to enduro events in the future but I DON'T need tons of travel necessarily as of now.

I rode a 2015 Bronson demo with the FOX 36 and it felt great. The 2015 5010 had a FOX 34 (dont know year) and the bike felt harsh and I never got comfortable on it either. I just did not feel one with the bike like I was fighting it. I went with the Bronson just cause I had a bad experience with the 5010 but I think it may have been the shock I disliked.

SO... Guessing the FOX 34 will be redesigned next year so perhaps a bad year to buy one. I do not know if the 2015 34 is really that improved and which I rode at the demo. FOX 36 is no doubt great but perhaps more shock than I need, definitely for daily riding. What to do?


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## challybert (Sep 5, 2014)

You know, this imbalance in the negative/positive chamber crap is so prevalent amongst the "popular" shocks. I'd say it's worthy of a STICKY at the top of the thread with the proper instructions on how to resolve the issue. There's got to be a RIGHT way to go about it from one of the experts here....step by step. How to fix it, how often to check given it seem to be an inevitable issue, how often to proactively do it, etc.


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

endy said:


> Stuck on my choice of forks for a build of a 2014 Santa Cruz Bronson Carbon
> What to do?


Hard to go wrong between the Pike and the 36. Upside on the 36 is high - stiffer, more adjustable, big sweet spot. You could even go TALAS for more versatility.


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## scootdogss (Dec 17, 2009)

endy said:


> Stuck on my choice of forks for a build of a 2014 Santa Cruz Bronson Carbon frame.


DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON 2014 34!!!!!

I have a bronson with 34 14 didn't realize how much it sucked till I got a 36. Can't believe Fox got away with selling that garbage.

Now I have 2015 36 talas 160/120 unbelievable fork have it setup to fox specs does everything great. geometry is spot on for bronson at 160 for descending. flip talas and it is an even more amazing climbing bike. I am heavy 210 plus but would never go back to 34.

For the extra money it is worth it to go 36 talas. run it in 120 for XC rides but have 160 option for more gnar you'll be glad you have it. The weight penalty is not much the new forks are very light.

Granted i have not ridden a 2015 34 but after the 14 I don't care to.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

scootdogss said:


> DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON 2014 34!!!!!
> 
> I have a bronson with 34 14 didn't realize how much it sucked till I got a 36. Can't believe Fox got away with selling that garbage.
> 
> ...


The 14 34 is hardly garbage. Its far better than many forks out there.

The 15s are supposed to be a big improvement though, and have gotten some glowing reviews. Besides, and brand new fork will always feels better.

That said, Im about to get a new bike, and the Pike may come off for a 36.


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## scootdogss (Dec 17, 2009)

FastBanana said:


> The 14 34 is hardly garbage. Its far better than many forks out there.


Maybe not but I have 2010 RS revelation team on my hardtail that I would rather ride than a 2014 34.

Been on the 36 since July I'm probably due for fluid change in the lowers but still performs like new.


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## endy (Nov 11, 2014)

Here are a few snippets of comparisons of the '15 36 and 34. Sounds like the '15 34 is much improved. Maybe FOX will overhaul the whole 34 design soon, I heard they are in the process of redesigning much of their line now.

Besides the weight and cost difference between the 2015 34 and 36. Any reason I would want to go with the 34 version?

Perhaps it is better suited to the daily XC style riding I do. I am already building up a bike a little beyond my immediate needs (a 5010 with less travel would have been sufficient) so I just want to keep that in perspective.

Testbericht: Fox 36 Float Factory RC2 2015 | Enduro Mountainbike Magazine



> In comparison to the Fox 34 fitted stock to our BMC the higher rigidity of the Fox 36 can cause the bike to jump or lose ground contact earlier. The difference in stiffness is especially noticeable in tight corners and during high speed line changes. Whilst the good natured 34 guides you through corners even without perfect body positioning and line choice the 36 is rigorous and demands more familiarisation and a skilled pilot. Overall the Fox 36 allows a more precise and aggressive riding style if you know what you're doing.


2015 Fox 34 Float 26 160 FIT CTD Fork | Blister Gear Review ? Skis, Snowboards, Mountain Bikes, Climbing - The most honest and in-depth reviews of outdoor sports equipment on the planet.



> The 34 isn't perfect in every respect, but when it comes to balancing small bump sensitivity off the top with good mid-stroke support, it's better than most of the other forks in this travel class that I've ridden. The Pike is very nearly as good, and it might be better at taking big hits repeatedly. But for the vast majority of riding involving moderately rough terrain, I think the 34 Float is the best in its class. (The revised 36 Float could give the 34 a run for its money, but that's only speculation, as I've only spent a brief amount of time so far on the 36.)


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

rshalit said:


> so here's something new: Fox just replaced my 26" 2015 36/160 Float RC2 -- and the positioning of the word "Kashima" printed on the new fork's stanchion is a good centimeter lower than it was on the identical fork I bought in July.
> 
> Anyway, it bottoms out close to 1 cm from the top - I measured and the total travel is exactly 160 mm from bottom to where o-ring stops at top.
> 
> btw, I've had a lot of Fox forks, not only is this Float the very best fork they've ever produced, can't even compare it to others it is so different, but their warranty customer service has improved enormously, as well!


Good to know, Fox always had pretty quick cs here as well. What was their diagnosis, why did they replace it?


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## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

(see edit below)


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## Stephen Kunkel (Aug 21, 2014)

FastBanana said:


> The 14 34 is hardly garbage. Its far better than many forks out there.
> 
> The 15s are supposed to be a big improvement though, and have gotten some glowing reviews. Besides, and brand new fork will always feels better.


Hoping so. I get along ok with my '14 34 Evo on my Bronson C but called Fox yesterday and they are sending me the '15 CTD TA damper and some oil for ~$110. Some sort of loyalty program discount for 2014 owners.

So, it'll be a 2015 Factory fork without the Kashima. It's all good, not really into Sushi.


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## AgrAde (Feb 21, 2012)

So how many of you have creaky crowns?

Mine has turned into the loudest creaky fork in the history of creaky forks.


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## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

The tech at Fox who worked on my fork kindly emailed me:

"When I was working on your fork I fixed the issue with the neg travel and that system was working fine. I had another issue with the fork , it was not that the fork wasn't working but because we have a very high standard for what we ship out of the service center. In all it was more of a noise issue that I felt wasn't up to our standards. I compared it the fork I sent you and was happy with that one. I haven't seen many of those forks come in for that issue that was the only one I have worked one so far. I would just make sure you don't cause any negative pressure when taking the fork part when changing air volume spacers or oil changes make sure you put the fork together when it most extended or close to it and that should go along way to preventing the issue. "


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## challybert (Sep 5, 2014)

rshalit said:


> The tech at Fox who worked on my fork kindly emailed me:
> 
> "......make sure you put the fork together when it most extended or close to it and that should go along way to preventing the issue. "


Thanks for posting this note. Into my book of secrets this goes.


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## flyinmike (Dec 17, 2005)

I'm not sure I understand what he's trying to say?
is he referring to adding air with the fork extended?


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## challybert (Sep 5, 2014)

flyinmike said:


> I'm not sure I understand what he's trying to say?
> is he referring to adding air with the fork extended?


Yeah, when you reassemble the fork, tighten the bottom bolts with the fork as extended as possible. Glad to hear this directly from a manufacturer as their exists a lot of information saying the opposite on the WWW. In fact, here is MBR Magazine instructions on reassembly of the RS Pike. See the last few minutes of the video, from 8 minutes on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?=zBGKEprUi1c&list=UU559eVX0ik_yn7b1qWIBjuQ


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

rshalit said:


> so here's something new: Fox just replaced my 26" 2015 36/160 Float RC2 -- and the positioning of the word "Kashima" printed on the new fork's stanchion is a good centimeter lower than it was on the identical fork I bought in July.


Interestingly I have two of these forks and I had a quick look at the photos and the newer one has the writing lower down than the early one I bought.


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## Bradical (Feb 18, 2013)

When the negative chamber starts to suck up your travel, which just happened to my 170mm, it lost about 10mm, all you need to do is:

Let the air out completely, pump the fork to 60psi, cycle the fork in the first 3-5mm of travel until you feel the negative and positive air spring balance, then pump the fork up to your desired pressure --- that should bump you back up to full travel.

It took a second try for it to work, but easy enough and fixed


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Bradical said:


> When the negative chamber starts to suck up your travel, which just happened to my 170mm, it lost about 10mm, all you need to do is:
> 
> Let the air out completely, pump the fork to 60psi, cycle the fork in the first 3-5mm of travel until you feel the negative and positive air spring balance, then pump the fork up to your desired pressure --- that should bump you back up to full travel.
> 
> It took a second try for it to work, but easy enough and fixed


Yup, I tried this when I got home the other day, and all is well with it again. Not really sure what I did to cause it in the first place, but it's back to it's former glory now.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Well it's back to bottoming out short of full travel. It's a little more than 10mm short this time and I can hear the noise.

There's @ 10mm showing when fully deflated and when this happens on the trail there's @ an inch showing.. also rock gardens through the rest of the rides are much more tiring on the hands after this happens


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

Deerhill said:


> Well it's back to bottoming out short of full travel. It's a little more than 10mm short this time and I can hear the noise.
> 
> There's @ 10mm showing when fully deflated and when this happens on the trail there's @ an inch showing.. also rock gardens through the rest of the rides are much more tiring on the hands after this happens


Unlike the Pike/RS products Fox forks to not bottom at the crown. The travel ring should be just above the Kashima writing at full travel. Sounds like that is what you are seeing.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Salespunk said:


> Unlike the Pike/RS products Fox forks to not bottom at the crown. The travel ring should be just above the Kashima writing at full travel. Sounds like that is what you are seeing.


I know they don't bottom at the crown, if you let all the air out you can see exactly where the fork reaches full travel, mine is not reaching that point when it starts to act up like this. I think it's the negative chamber, that cycling 3-5mm process seems to only be a temporary fix.


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## challybert (Sep 5, 2014)

My Pike has the same issue from time to time. I don't get the obvious to notice "sucking down" issue that's visually noticeable by viewing the unweighted fork sag markings. 

Once every few weeks I let all the air out and try to compress the fork. Many times the sucker won't compress beyond 115mm of my total 140mm travel (this is with ALL the air out). Push as hard as I can and there's still an inch of travel to go. 

Not sure what a more permanent fix might be besides just continuing to do what I'm doing periodically.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

rshalit said:


> so here's something new: Fox just replaced my 26" 2015 36/160 Float RC2 -- and the positioning of the word "Kashima" printed on the new fork's stanchion is a good centimeter lower than it was on the identical fork I bought in July.


Here is a photo comparison:


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

That's interesting. I think my graphics are somewhere between the two on the far right.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

The 170mm version of the 36 actually has a smaller + air chamber than the 160mm fork so I guesstimate that a 170mm fork with no volume spacers would have a very similar + chamber to a 160mm fork with one orange spacer.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Here is a photo showing the differences between the 2 air shafts both at 160mm travel. IMHO at 160mm the better one to have is the 160mm airshaft, it gives you better tuning options for air volume tokens. Also unlike the Pike there is no need to add volume spacers as the travel reduces as the air volume in the + chamber reduces with the travel change, unlike a pike:


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

Deerhill said:


> Well it's back to bottoming out short of full travel. It's a little more than 10mm short this time and I can hear the noise.
> 
> There's @ 10mm showing when fully deflated and when this happens on the trail there's @ an inch showing.. also rock gardens through the rest of the rides are much more tiring on the hands after this happens


Had the same problem. Doing the deflate and ziptie trick would work, at least it fully extended and the proper amount of stanchion would be exposed, temporarily. Sag pressure was lower than the suggested numbers, which didn't make any sense.

Tried inflating it to 60psi and then doing the ziptie trick and a bunch of air moved, I assume in, and now everything seems the way it should be. 75psi gives me 28mm/17.5% sag at 185lbs, before that, just under 70psi gave me 32mm.

ETA: After equalizing pressure while inflated to 60psi, 70psi gave me almost 40mm of sag. After getting 28mm at 75psi, I called it good enough since it was a pressure I could easily replicate consistently. Way more work than it should have been, but should be easier now.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

richde said:


> Had the same problem. Doing the deflate and ziptie trick would work, at least it fully extended and the proper amount of stanchion would be exposed, temporarily. Sag pressure was lower than the suggested numbers, which didn't make any sense.
> 
> Tried inflating it to 60psi and then doing the ziptie trick and a bunch of air moved, I assume in, and now everything seems the way it should be. 75psi gives me 28mm/17.5% sag at 185lbs, before that, just under 70psi gave me 32mm.
> 
> ETA: After equalizing pressure while inflated to 60psi, 70psi gave me almost 40mm of sag. After getting 28mm at 75psi, I called it good enough since it was a pressure I could easily replicate consistently. Way more work than it should have been, but should be easier now.


One thing is for sure, it's a different fork after the burp procedure. Rides extremely plush right after..hasn't lasted for chunky trails or when using most of the travel. I burp it through the footnut though, and it's not like a ton of air burps


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

richde said:


> Had the same problem. Doing the deflate and ziptie trick would work, at least it fully extended and the proper amount of stanchion would be exposed, temporarily. Sag pressure was lower than the suggested numbers, which didn't make any sense.
> 
> Tried inflating it to 60psi and then doing the ziptie trick and a bunch of air moved, I assume in, and now everything seems the way it should be. 75psi gives me 28mm/17.5% sag at 185lbs, before that, just under 70psi gave me 32mm.
> 
> ETA: After equalizing pressure while inflated to 60psi, 70psi gave me almost 40mm of sag. After getting 28mm at 75psi, I called it good enough since it was a pressure I could easily replicate consistently. Way more work than it should have been, but should be easier now.


Just got back from a ride, used 145mm of travel, no pressure in the fork lowers and 168mm of stanchion showing. I assume there's a top out bumper somewhere that accounts for that missing 2mm.

Is using the ziptie to burp (more like a sbd, but whatever) after inflating achieving the same thing as the "inflate to 60psi and cycle the first 3-5mm of travel" thing? I'm asking that because I tried that and I couldn't feel anything happening.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

I burp it through the footnut when it starts to bottom out without getting full travel. Also when it starts to get harsh on the hands (usually the negative spring is too full AND there's air trapped in the lowers)

Just deflate it so you know where the fork uses full travel. The ziptie thing might be faster but it could push dirt into the bushings


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## 8 1/2 (Apr 24, 2011)

Deerhill said:


> One thing is for sure, it's a different fork after the burp procedure. Rides extremely plush right after..hasn't lasted for chunky trails or when using most of the travel. I burp it through the footnut though, and it's not like a ton of air burps


Does it require anything else than just opening the footnut?


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

8 1/2 said:


> Does it require anything else than just opening the footnut?


I just thread it on a couple turns and tap the socket (bike is upside down for a couple minutes first)


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## AgrAde (Feb 21, 2012)

Whelp, cracked my fork!

I recently removed my 15mm adapters (because my 20mm axle finally arrived) to find huge amounts of porosity in the casting, and the area to be riddled with cracks. The lowers should have immediately failed any visual inspection, but somehow they slipped through.

They're currently on their way back to fox. I find it interesting though - I bought my fork through Santa Cruz, who supplies the fork with a 15mm axle only. It was highly likely that this fork would never have the 15mm adapters removed. Is this the only reason that Fox let them through the QC process?

I'm just glad I found it before I had the dropout shear off. The cracks were huge.


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## tacubaya (Jan 27, 2006)

AgrAde said:


> Whelp, cracked my fork!
> 
> I recently removed my 15mm adapters (because my 20mm axle finally arrived) to find huge amounts of porosity in the casting, and the area to be riddled with cracks. The lowers should have immediately failed any visual inspection, but somehow they slipped through.
> 
> ...


Funny. I purchased a Float 36 2015 for testing purposes and when I received it, I removed the 15mm adapters to run a 20mm axle and I found A LOT of casting porosity inside the dropouts. Long story short I sent the fork back to the Fox distro for a full refund.

I urge all people on this thread to check the inside of the dropouts for porosity.


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## AgrAde (Feb 21, 2012)

Looks similar to mine, though mine was worse. Is it a coincidence that you took a photo of the brake side? Mine was also on that side, other side was fine.


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## tacubaya (Jan 27, 2006)

AgrAde said:


> Looks similar to mine, though mine was worse. Is it a coincidence that you took a photo of the brake side? Mine was also on that side, other side was fine.


Yes, that photo is of the brake side dropout. The other side had some pores, but not nearly as bad as the brake side.


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## 11053 (Sep 19, 2009)

Thanks for the heads up AgrAde and tacubaya.
Just inspected my fresh out of the box 36.
Pores and possible cracks on the brake side.
Other side looks fine.
Mine doesn't look quite as bad as the photo above as far as casting porosity, but mine does show what looks like cracks between some of the pores.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Yeah, good looking out.. Same here, the other side is nice and smooth, brake side seems worse than your photo and it's all around to the other side of the bore too. Been using 20mm hub the whole time.. Is there a recall ??


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## BC (Jan 11, 2006)

Holy crap !. how does this make it through the QC process ?. Guess I'll rebuild my 07' 36 instead of purchasing new.


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## DrewBird (Apr 11, 2007)

Here's mine. Looking up into the brake side, other side looks fine. But this looks bad, that's a big hole and seems like a great place for a crack to start.

So anyone gotten in touch with Fox? Is there a recall?


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## omoore61 (Jul 16, 2010)

Thanks for the heads up, below are pictures of mine. Both pictures are from the brake side, the drivetrain side looks fine:


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## omoore61 (Jul 16, 2010)

I spoke with a service manager at fox today about the porosity, apparently most 36's(all of them?) have this type of thing on the brake side. They offered to replace the lowers if i wanted but said that the replacement lowers would likely look similar. Basically, they were not concerned with the blemishes seen in the pictures but offered a replacement at any time if i felt necessary.


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## challybert (Sep 5, 2014)

omoore61 said:


> I spoke with a service manager at fox today about the porosity, apparently most 36's(all of them?) have this type of thing on the brake side. They offered to replace the lowers if i wanted but said that the replacement lowers would likely look similar. Basically, they were not concerned with the blemishes seen in the pictures but offered a replacement at any time if i felt necessary.


Yikes....can't imagine that's an official position given what the pics show. Pretty risky.

$hit, my 14yr old, $50 cast set of golf irons...likely made somewhere in the desert of West Central China, don't have pores/scales and crackly looking scars. Trust me, they've hit more rocks and branches than golf balls over the years.


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## 11053 (Sep 19, 2009)

omoore61 said:


> I spoke with a service manager at fox today about the porosity, apparently most 36's(all of them?) have this type of thing on the brake side. They offered to replace the lowers if i wanted but said that the replacement lowers would likely look similar. Basically, they were not concerned with the blemishes seen in the pictures but offered a replacement at any time if i felt necessary.


That's interesting.
Considering how much variation there is in the pics posted above, there's no way a blanket statement of no concern makes sense.
My 36 had cracks/fissures between some of the pores.
I doubt the fork was designed to have such variances and still be within spec.


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## AgrAde (Feb 21, 2012)

As an update, mine are being replaced. Fox have said that in general most of them have porosity but that it's not a problem. There is no recall but will make for a valid warranty claim if you're not happy with them. They also seemed to think that it was possibly a problem with the first big run of lowers, and that they'll be better in future.

Might be an idea to wait a few months and keep an eye on them before you warranty them if you're concerned about getting another set that look similar, but that was more the opinion of one guy and I don't know if it came from Fox.


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## omoore61 (Jul 16, 2010)

His comments expressing lack of concern were in regards to pictures of my fork alone. The generalization, as Agrade mentioned, is that most lowers have some porosity, not that porosity doesn't matter to fox. I'll take him at his word that its not going to be a problem but i'll keep an eye on it and have my LBS document the blemishes. I'll also probably take him up on the offer to replace the lowers sometime in the spring when the trails are covered in snow. Until then, i'll enjoy riding what has been an amazing fork and hopefully the issues will have been resolved.


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## AgrAde (Feb 21, 2012)

omoore61 said:


> Until then, i'll enjoy riding what has been an amazing fork and hopefully the issues will have been resolved.


Indeed. This is the third warranty issue I've had with these forks. I was a bit emotional after finding the cracks in the dropout and was seriously considering buying something else to replace them with. But there isn't any other product I'd be happy with, and I've kinda realised that I got one from the first run of the new design - teething problems yeah, I think I can deal with that. And Fox have been saints.

Their performance is phenomenal. I'm still pretty stoked on the fork.


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## Dirttrackin280h (Aug 10, 2008)

AgrAde said:


> Indeed. This is the third warranty issue I've had with these forks. I was a bit emotional after finding the cracks in the dropout and was seriously considering buying something else to replace them with. But there isn't any other product I'd be happy with, and I've kinda realised that I got one from the first run of the new design - teething problems yeah, I think I can deal with that. And Fox have been saints.
> 
> Their performance is phenomenal. I'm still pretty stoked on the fork.


Keep us posted on the new replacement lowers, would love to know if they still have the porosity/cracking. I just received my new 36's yesterday and they have the same thing going on. I'll definitely keep an eye on it to see if it progresses.


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

So when the dropouts crack a few months after the 1yr warranty expires; is Fox going to replace the lowers? That's a question I'd want to know before letting alone...


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## Terminator Z (Feb 16, 2007)

Can “off the shelf” or “stock” 160mm 36’s be extended to 170mm using the 170/180mm air shaft (and maybe the 170 transfer shaft)?

I’m getting a new bike with a 160mm 36 and would possibly be interested in bumping it up to 170mm or running it on my other bike at 180mm. 

I know Fox’s site says “160 forks cannot be extended past 160mm of travel” And I understand that there are different air shafts but I’m wondering if there is any compatibility between the two. Does the 160 36 share the same uppers and lowers as the 170/180mm 36, meaning the only difference is the air shaft and transfer shaft assemblies?


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Terminator Z said:


> Can "off the shelf" or "stock" 160mm 36's be extended to 170mm using the 170/180mm air shaft (and maybe the 170 transfer shaft)?
> 
> I'm getting a new bike with a 160mm 36 and would possibly be interested in bumping it up to 170mm or running it on my other bike at 180mm. I know Fox's site says "160 forks cannot be extended past 160mm of travel" And I understand that there are different air shafts but I'm wondering if there is any compatibility between the two. Does the 160 36 share the same uppers and lowers as the 170/180mm 36, meaning the only difference is the air shaft and transfer shaft assemblies?


Just buy the 180 and use reducers to run 160


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## Terminator Z (Feb 16, 2007)

Shredman69 said:


> Just buy the 180 and use reducers to run 160


I would, but the 160 comes stock with the bike.


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Terminator Z said:


> I would, but the 160 comes stock with the bike.


Maybe the LBS your getting it from can swap it? They may charge a little extra, but it would be worth it. That would be easier than converting it to a 180, which could prob be done, but it would be a PITA.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Anyone have that fender/ rock guard yet?


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Deerhill said:


> Anyone have that fender/ rock guard yet?


No, but I'm waiting for it. When I saw the screw holes in the fork brace, I thought they must be making a fender for it, but I've yet to see it.


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## PiousInquisitor (Oct 19, 2014)

I was going to mount these babies but...







...this.














FFFFFFFFUUUUUUUU-


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

PiousInquisitor said:


> I was going to mount these babies but...
> View attachment 950808
> 
> ...this.
> ...


I know those look bad, but I don't think they'll affect the structural integrity of the fork. Watch this video. At about 6:00 min in, Peat does a tour of the Fox Factory and they show some of the testing that they are put through. I have a 14 and 15 36 Float 180 and I'm not the least bit worried about breakage on either one. Those decals look great BTW. I put on decals from Slik Graphix on mine too.:cornut:

Video: This Is Peaty - Season 3 Finale - Pinkbike


----------



## PiousInquisitor (Oct 19, 2014)

Shredman69 said:


> I know those look bad, but I don't think they'll affect the structural integrity of the fork. Watch this video. At about 6:00 min in, Peat does a tour of the Fox Factory and they show some of the testing that they are put through. I have a 14 and 15 36 Float 180 and I'm not the least bit worried about breakage on either one. Those decals look great BTW. I put on decals from Slik Graphix on mine too.:cornut:
> 
> Video: This Is Peaty - Season 3 Finale - Pinkbike


Thanks for the input. Im not sure I trust the fork anymore. Im gonna send the photos to Fox and see what they think.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I already bought my 2015 Fox 36 forks. & I think they're great. But I recently moved closer to some climbing, is there a downside to running the Talas instead?


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Suns_PSD said:


> I already bought my 2015 Fox 36 forks. & I think they're great. But I recently moved closer to some climbing, is there a downside to running the Talas instead?


Yes, it is not nearly as good as the Float is in performance. The float is also a little lighter. With the Float you can adjust the low speed compression enough that you don't have much bobbing if any, and if you have a smooth pedal stroke while climbing it shouldn't be an issue.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Thanks for that. Does it really make that much difference on say a 150 yard techy climb to be able to lock your forks down with a Talas?
Where should I set my Float settings at? Is there some sort of baseline setting? I tried to use the manual's settings but they had the settings listed at more total clicks out than I even had total! So I just set everything in the middle.


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Suns_PSD said:


> Thanks for that. Does it really make that much difference on say a 150 yard techy climb to be able to lock your forks down with a Talas?
> Where should I set my Float settings at? Is there some sort of baseline setting? I tried to use the manual's settings but they had the settings listed at more total clicks out than I even had total! So I just set everything in the middle.


The Fox settings are a good starting point, starting with the rebound, go clockwise to full closed, then go back out 13 clicks. Same thing for the low speed compression. High speed is 18 clicks from full closed. I run the air about 15psi lower than the setup says to get full travel and balance with my shock.


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## Dirttrackin280h (Aug 10, 2008)

Can anyone link me to the recommended air pressure chart for the Fox 36?


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Dirttrackin280h said:


> Can anyone link me to the recommended air pressure chart for the Fox 36?


http://www.ridefox.com/dl/bike/36-quickstart-guide-lores.pdf


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Shredman69 said:


> The Fox settings are a good starting point, starting with the rebound, go clockwise to full closed, then go back out 13 clicks. Same thing for the low speed compression. High speed is 18 clicks from full closed. I run the air about 15psi lower than the setup says to get full travel and balance with my shock.


Okay I went and checked. See the problem was that when my suspension was new the manual requested HSC 18 clicks out but I only had 17 clicks total available! But all seems to be well now.

As far as air pressure goes, I'm a believer in 30% sag front and rear. So I ignore the recommended air charts and I'm sitting at about 68psi up front right now.

Maybe I'm an idiot but I can't make a mountain bike work with the recommended air pressure settings, no front end traction primarily.


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Suns_PSD said:


> Maybe I'm an idiot but I can't make a mountain bike work with the recommended air pressure settings, no front end traction primarily.


Maybe it's your front tire or front tire pressure, (too high). I weigh 175 with all gear and I'm running 55lbs pressure in the fork. I also have a large volume front tire on a wide rim and I only run 22lbs of pressure in the tire and I have great front end traction.


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

Suns_PSD said:


> Okay I went and checked. See the problem was that when my suspension was new the manual requested HSC 18 clicks out but I only had 17 clicks total available! But all seems to be well now.
> 
> As far as air pressure goes, I'm a believer in 30% sag front and rear. So I ignore the recommended air charts and I'm sitting at about 68psi up front right now.
> 
> Maybe I'm an idiot but I can't make a mountain bike work with the recommended air pressure settings, no front end traction primarily.


Which is it, are you using the recommended pressure or your own 30% sag pressure?

I used to run more sag in my forks, but decided to stop outsmarting the designers (of both frame and fork) with my new bike, and now everything works awesome within a click or two of factory recommendations.

If you run too much sag, you're going to need to use more low speed compression in order to keep from bottoming out, which is going to change how the fork works.

If anyone is using a pressure significantly different from the suggested number in the Fox setup guide for the same amount of sag, you should make sure that there isn't air trapped inside of the stanchions by pushing a zip-tie between the fork leg and the seal. It will make your fork work like crap until you fix it.


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

richde said:


> If anyone is using a pressure significantly different from the suggested number in the Fox setup guide for the same amount of sag, you should make sure that there isn't air trapped inside of the stanchions by pushing a zip-tie between the fork leg and the seal. It will make your fork work like crap until you fix it.


My fork seems good now, but I went to check to see if air was trapped inside anyway, but when I did, the zip-tie doesn't want to go in past the seal and I don't want to damage the seal trying to force it. I used a new zip tie with the thin side first. I'm probably just being to gentile but IDK.

Ok, tried again and got the zip tie past the wiper, but I could only get it in about an inch and no air came out. I feel like it needs to go in deeper, (that's what she said) but it wouldn't go in any farther. Do I need to let all of the air out of the fork first?


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

Let all the air out of your fork. Push all the way till it bottoms out. Press the zip tie down inside the seal. If you hear a pssshhh of air then you got it. If you don't then one of two things. Your not though the seal on the lower with your zip tie or you don't have any air trapped in the lowers. I find that the first is more common.


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Ok, I got it. I let the air out and the zip tie slipped right in and the air came out of both sides. Thanks


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

Shredman69 said:


> My fork seems good now, but I went to check to see if air was trapped inside anyway, but when I did, the zip-tie doesn't want to go in past the seal and I don't want to damage the seal trying to force it. I used a new zip tie with the thin side first. I'm probably just being to gentile but IDK.
> 
> Ok, tried again and got the zip tie past the wiper, but I could only get it in about an inch and no air came out. I feel like it needs to go in deeper, (that's what she said) but it wouldn't go in any farther. Do I need to let all of the air out of the fork first?


I think Fox took all those old bad seal complaints a little too personally.

My seals were air tight and created positive/negative pressure depending on where the fork was in it's travel. It wouldn't collapse or extend fully (you should have full travel + close to 10mm of exposed stanchion, IIRC), and the pressure while setting sag was far less than the suggested pressure. The result was that it used way too much travel and bottomed out too easily.

With the fork fully extended, I removed the negative pressure, and was able to get sag numbers in line with their recommendations. The fork uses almost all of it's travel when pushed hard without bottoming.

I found the easiest way to get a zip tie down there is to just pull the seal away with a fingernail to create a small gap and slide it down. It doesn't take much pressure or leave any mark on the seal.

It might end up being less air tight as the seals wear in, but I suppose too tight is better than too loose when you're talking about keeping mud and grit out of a $1000 fork.


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## mik8yu (Jul 25, 2012)

A few days ago I found something... Basically after installing the front wheel back on. The thru axle and tightening the 4 screws does not seem to hold the fork leg in place. As in when I tried to use a bit of force to pull the legs apart with the bike upside down, there seems to be a gap or pay between the hub and the point where the fork touches the front hub. Is this normal??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Deerhill said:


> Anyone have that fender/ rock guard yet?


Mucky Nutts on mine


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

hitechredneck said:


> Let all the air out of your fork. Push all the way till it bottoms out. Press the zip tie down inside the seal. If you hear a pssshhh of air then you got it. If you don't then one of two things. Your not though the seal on the lower with your zip tie or you don't have any air trapped in the lowers. I find that the first is more common.


It worked. Much better ride now and using full travel. Small to medium high speed braking bumps on my 2014 Float were a problem, but this fork eats them up and it's still good on the big hits too! It's awesome!!!


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## wesmeyer11 (Aug 29, 2006)

I still can't get over the fact that people have to stick a 5 cent zip tie in a $1000 fork to make it work properly....


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

wesmeyer11 said:


> I still can't get over the fact that people have to stick a 5 cent zip tie in a $1000 fork to make it work properly....


You don't need too though. It's something published on the Internet with regards the Pike and now everyone seems to think it's something they have to do on every fork.

In actual fact people that press the fork down and then get a psss of air are creating a vacuume in the fork initially which will even out pretty quickly as air gets drawn into the lowers and possibly draw crap past them too as the pressures equalise.


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

Rick Draper said:


> You don't need too though. It's something published on the Internet with regards the Pike and now everyone seems to think it's something they have to do on every fork.
> 
> In actual fact people that press the fork down and then get a psss of air are creating a vacuume in the fork initially which will even out pretty quickly as air gets drawn into the lowers and possibly draw crap past them too as the pressures equalise.


Not really.

When I released the pressure in mine, my fork extended to it's proper height. The negative pressure was keeping it from extending fully, and getting the proper amount of sag required using too little pressure which meant that the fork bottomed out way too often.

Maybe the seals will break in a little, since it's only a month old at this point, but like I said, too tight is better than too loose when it comes to keeping dirt out of a $1000 fork.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

richde said:


> Not really.
> 
> When I released the pressure in mine, my fork extended to it's proper height. The negative pressure was keeping it from extending fully, and getting the proper amount of sag required using too little pressure which meant that the fork bottomed out way too often.
> 
> Maybe the seals will break in a little, since it's only a month old at this point, but like I said, too tight is better than too loose when it comes to keeping dirt out of a $1000 fork.


Thats negative pressure, 99% of the time people are referring to positive pressure ruining small bump compliance when in reality the fork is working exactly the same as any other fork. I can achieve exactly the same thing with a 2010 Reba, its nothing new.

If yours had negative pressure in the lowers from new then it was likely never assembled correctly by fox according to there guidelines of adding 60psi iirc to the air chamber to extend the air shaft fully.


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

Rick Draper said:


> Thats negative pressure, 99% of the time people are referring to positive pressure ruining small bump compliance when in reality the fork is working exactly the same as any other fork. I can achieve exactly the same thing with a 2010 Reba, its nothing new.
> 
> If yours had negative pressure in the lowers from new then it was likely never assembled correctly by fox according to there guidelines of adding 60psi iirc to the air chamber to extend the air shaft fully.


It also had positive pressure at the bottom of the stroke, which screwed up my initial attempts at setting sag. Like some others noted, my sag pressure was significantly different than the Fox recommendations. They did build it after all, so maybe if you're not in the neighborhood of what they suggest, it's not them, it's you.

If I released the pressure while the air chamber was unpressurized and the fork compressed, the negative pressure kept it from reaching full extension. I tried the 60psi cycling the fork thing that Fox recommended, but got impatient and the zip tie seemed to simply speed the process up. The fork has full extension and will come close to bottoming out when pushed hard now.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

You will have positive pressure at the base of the stroke. Forcing a cylinder into a sealed tube is going to create positive pressure so you will always have air wanting to escape from the lower leg at full compression. If you did the same now you would have positive pressure at the bottom of the stroke.


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## The-Flow-Zone (Jan 2, 2015)

FYI, your fork is fine. The way it works is that the non disc side drop out floats until its clamped. When you put the axle on, it tightens against the hub and disc side drop out to create hub preload. The non disc side will float on the axle then once the drop outs are tightened, its all held correctly, even with a gap. This is best way to clamp everything as it will not "bind" the fork legs in a position they should not be in.



mik8yu said:


> A few days ago I found something... Basically after installing the front wheel back on. The thru axle and tightening the 4 screws does not seem to hold the fork leg in place. As in when I tried to use a bit of force to pull the legs apart with the bike upside down, there seems to be a gap or pay between the hub and the point where the fork touches the front hub. Is this normal??
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## leejords (Jan 23, 2013)

Just completed a lower service on my 2015 36 and the air side was completely stuck and took many taps with the fox tool and rubber mallet. I am now a little concerned that I may have done some sort of damage.

Currently it is holding air once back together and on the surface all seems fine. Anyone else had a similar experience?

All the best,

Lee.


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## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

I'm trying to decide between the 36 Talas and Float. As far as I can tell the Talas versions do not have the volume spacer option.

Right now I have a 2014 34 Talas. I use the Talas adjust on a couple steep hills riding to and from trails (but never on trails) and actually like having it as an option.

However, losing out on the volume spacers seems to be quite a sacrifice.

Do the volume spacers make more of a difference for heavier, very aggressive riders? (I'm about 150 pounds.) Or are they equally effective for us lighter riders? I like a very, very supple, smooth feeling fork on small bumps, if that helps with advice.

Thanks in advance.


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

Terminator Z said:


> Can "off the shelf" or "stock" 160mm 36's be extended to 170mm using the 170/180mm air shaft (and maybe the 170 transfer shaft)?
> 
> I'm getting a new bike with a 160mm 36 and would possibly be interested in bumping it up to 170mm or running it on my other bike at 180mm.
> 
> I know Fox's site says "160 forks cannot be extended past 160mm of travel" And I understand that there are different air shafts but I'm wondering if there is any compatibility between the two. Does the 160 36 share the same uppers and lowers as the 170/180mm 36, meaning the only difference is the air shaft and transfer shaft assemblies?


I can state definitively no, the 160 cannot be extended to 170 or 180. Not only is the air shaft different, but the damper cartridge is 20mm shorter as well. Just laid out my 160 vs my 170 to verify.


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## Terminator Z (Feb 16, 2007)

Salespunk said:


> I can state definitively no, the 160 cannot be extended to 170 or 180. Not only is the air shaft different, but the damper cartridge is 20mm shorter as well. Just laid out my 160 vs my 170 to verify.


Damn! That's what I was afraid of... Thanks for looking into that SP!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

I assume its the damper shaft itself that is shorter and the rest the same?


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## EVROS (Mar 5, 2011)

the FOX 36 Talas 26 180 Fit RC2 How often wants maintenance


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## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Anyone here in the Seattle region with a 20 mm thru axle and spacers they aren't using? I guess OE doesn't come with it and it's the last part of my build I need. I got it on order so I could give it to you once it arrives!

Thanks!


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## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

I noticed the fox integrated some threaded holes for a fender on the lower crown. Is there a compatible fender out there to utilize these holes are is that still in the making?


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Junersun said:


> I noticed the fox integrated some threaded holes for a fender on the lower crown. Is there a compatible fender out there to utilize these holes are is that still in the making?


That's what I'm hoping! But I haven't heard anything yet.


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

Rick Draper said:


> I assume its the damper shaft itself that is shorter and the rest the same?


It is not the damper shaft, but part of the body. Not sure if there is less oil volume though.


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

EVROS said:


> the FOX 36 Talas 26 180 Fit RC2 How often wants maintenance


About every 50 hours from my experience.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Salespunk said:


> It is not the damper shaft, but part of the body. Not sure if there is less oil volume though.


If the body is shorter then it will have a slightly reduced oil volume. If its the body thats shorter then I imagine it must be the black alloy body thats beneath the bladder and above the rebound seal head?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Junersun said:


> Anyone here in the Seattle region with a 20 mm thru axle and spacers they aren't using? I guess OE doesn't come with it and it's the last part of my build I need. I got it on order so I could give it to you once it arrives!
> 
> Thanks!


Mine did include both axles and all spacers. The spacers are used for the 15mm axle however.


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## bigjp (Nov 7, 2008)

I am thinking of getting a float 36 for my Knolly Chilcotin. It looks like I can drop almost 1.5 lbs from my current fork. The 160 has a slightly lower atc than my current fork so I was considering getting a 180 and dropping it to 170. The fox web site does not currently list the weights for the 180 version. 

Does any one know what the weight differences are between the 160, and 180 versions?

Thanks


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think only the internal shaft length is different on the non-spring side for the various travel lengths. The 170mm 36 is only 7mm longer AtC than a 160mm Pike. After you take into account the extra sag of the 170 over the 160, I very seriously doubt you'd notice this.

I put a 160mm 36 on my Warden, but I really wish I'd gone 170 now.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

rscecil007 said:


> Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think only the internal shaft length is different on the non-spring side for the various travel lengths. The 170mm 36 is only 7mm longer AtC than a 160mm Pike. After you take into account the extra sag of the 170 over the 160, I very seriously doubt you'd notice this.
> 
> I put a 160mm 36 on my Warden, but I really wish I'd gone 170 now.


A 160mm purchased for has a shorter airshaft than a 170mm one. It needs a new airshaft and some damper parts as salespunk has compared the dampers to go to 170mm.


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## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

bigjp said:


> Does any one know what the weight differences are between the 160, and 180 versions?
> 
> Thanks


Very minimal weight difference, I have both at the shop that I'll weigh tomorrow.

160-180mm works great on the Chilcotin. Send me a PM for pricing, Knation members get the hook up.


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

bigjp said:


> I am thinking of getting a float 36 for my Knolly Chilcotin. It looks like I can drop almost 1.5 lbs from my current fork. The 160 has a slightly lower atc than my current fork so I was considering getting a 180 and dropping it to 170. The fox web site does not currently list the weights for the 180 version.
> 
> Does any one know what the weight differences are between the 160, and 180 versions?
> 
> Thanks


My 180 is 4.19 with an 8" steerer.:thumbsup:


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

*Mileage*

Anyone serviced a 2015 36 chassis a couple times?

The air spring shaft is getting rediculous to unseat from the lowers, each service this Fox has needed to be hit harder/more times than the last service (this is 4th service and the footnut is always torqued to spec). Never needed to hit a mountain bike part this hard and not sure how much more the lower casting can take.. These are so much lighter (especially the crown seems to have lost weight) than the previous version 36 before 2009 and the mk from 2011'-14' and none of those had this problem


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## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

DirtMerchantBicycles said:


> Very minimal weight difference, I have both at the shop that I'll weigh tomorrow.
> 
> 160-180mm works great on the Chilcotin. Send me a PM for pricing, Knation members get the hook up.










26" 160mm








26" 180mm


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

Deerhill said:


> Anyone serviced a 2015 36 chassis a couple times?
> 
> The air spring shaft is getting rediculous to unseat from the lowers, each service this Fox has needed to be hit harder/more times than the last service (this is 4th service and the footnut is always torqued to spec). Never needed to hit a mountain bike part this hard and not sure how much more the lower casting can take.. These are so much lighter (especially the crown seems to have lost weight) than the previous version 36 before 2009 and the mk from 2011'-14' and none of those had this problem


You're hitting a block, not the actual footnuts right?


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

Deerhill said:


> Anyone serviced a 2015 36 chassis a couple times?
> 
> The air spring shaft is getting rediculous to unseat from the lowers, each service this Fox has needed to be hit harder/more times than the last service (this is 4th service and the footnut is always torqued to spec). Never needed to hit a mountain bike part this hard and not sure how much more the lower casting can take.. These are so much lighter (especially the crown seems to have lost weight) than the previous version 36 before 2009 and the mk from 2011'-14' and none of those had this problem


I have done several services already and not run into this. Do you use the Fox tools for shaft removal?


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Yes, not hitting the footnut. The first service I found the lowers/splash bath were not lubed from Fox, the air spring parts were honeyed up however

Fork does get ridden hard but I don't think the first go w/o lube would make it this difficult to unseat the air spring shaft from the lowers..


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

leejords said:


> Just completed a lower service on my 2015 36 and the air side was completely stuck and took many taps with the fox tool and rubber mallet. I am now a little concerned that I may have done some sort of damage.
> 
> Currently it is holding air once back together and on the surface all seems fine. Anyone else had a similar experience?
> 
> ...


Did the splash bath have lube when you pulled the lowers?


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## Erock503 (Oct 20, 2014)

If the nut possibly got deformed and flattened a bit, it might pull the rod deeper when set to the spec'd torque.


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## leejords (Jan 23, 2013)

S


Deerhill said:


> Anyone serviced a 2015 36 chassis a couple times?
> 
> The air spring shaft is getting rediculous to unseat from the lowers, each service this Fox has needed to be hit harder/more times than the last service (this is 4th service and the footnut is always torqued to spec). Never needed to hit a mountain bike part this hard and not sure how much more the lower casting can take.. These are so much lighter (especially the crown seems to have lost weight) than the previous version 36 before 2009 and the mk from 2011'-14' and none of those had this problem


This is exactly what I said on the revious page but didn't get a reply from anyone.

Absolute nightmare to get out and that was using the official Fox screw on tool.


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## bigjp (Nov 7, 2008)

*Very nice thanks for the info*



DirtMerchantBicycles said:


> View attachment 962425
> 
> 26" 160mm
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info. This is exactly what I was looking for. I definitely think the 180 dropped to 170 is the way to go, as it gives me more options and I don't see my self ever running it lower than 160.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

leejords said:


> S
> 
> This is exactly what I said on the revious page but didn't get a reply from anyone.
> 
> Absolute nightmare to get out and that was using the official Fox screw on tool.


Maybe the casting for the lowers has been updated for 2015 because the previous versions were nothing like this (at least my vanilla's only took a couple easy taps).. for reference it took @15 hits, not taps. Like driving nails into a 2x4 stud.


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## mik8yu (Jul 25, 2012)

jon123 said:


> I'm trying to decide between the 36 Talas and Float. As far as I can tell the Talas versions do not have the volume spacer option.
> 
> Right now I have a 2014 34 Talas. I use the Talas adjust on a couple steep hills riding to and from trails (but never on trails) and actually like having it as an option.
> 
> ...


I would love to know the answer to the above too. Am on a talas 160mm thinking if to get the float 180 and then lower it to 160 for my other frame.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

Anybody know if Fox has addressed the porosity issue? I have this problem but I don't want to send the fork and have the lowers replaced to find that the new lowers have the same problem


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

ban said:


> Anybody know if Fox has addressed the porosity issue? I have this problem but I don't want to send the fork and have the lowers replaced to find that the new lowers have the same problem


I just sent mine back in again for this very thing. I called to ask the rep about it and if it was really needed, and practically before I could finish telling him it was due to porosity issue, he told me I needed to send it in and get the the lowers replaced.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Hey, looky what I stumbled across:

Flow Zone Q36R Makes Quick Work of 2015 Fox 36 Wheel Changes

Q36R Quick Release | FlowZone


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## Erock503 (Oct 20, 2014)

Deerhill said:


> Anyone serviced a 2015 36 chassis a couple times?
> 
> The air spring shaft is getting rediculous to unseat from the lowers, each service this Fox has needed to be hit harder/more times than the last service (this is 4th service and the footnut is always torqued to spec). Never needed to hit a mountain bike part this hard and not sure how much more the lower casting can take.. These are so much lighter (especially the crown seems to have lost weight) than the previous version 36 before 2009 and the mk from 2011'-14' and none of those had this problem





leejords said:


> S
> 
> This is exactly what I said on the revious page but didn't get a reply from anyone.
> 
> Absolute nightmare to get out and that was using the official Fox screw on tool.


So is this a common issue? I imagine a lot of riders haven't had them serviced many times yet. I bought these for a build, and that's unsettling since I do my own servicing.


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## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Pau11y said:


> Hey, looky what I stumbled across:
> 
> Flow Zone Q36R Makes Quick Work of 2015 Fox 36 Wheel Changes
> 
> Q36R Quick Release | FlowZone


Just make sure you are not riding in anything that would snag up on it. QR facing forward is not settling


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## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

okay thank you, I have to send mine but if the new lowers have the same problem I wouldn't bother in sending them....


rscecil007 said:


> I just sent mine back in again for this very thing. I called to ask the rep about it and if it was really needed, and practically before I could finish telling him it was due to porosity issue, he told me I needed to send it in and get the the lowers replaced.


----------



## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Erock503 said:


> So is this a common issue? I imagine a lot of riders haven't had them serviced many times yet. I bought these for a build, and that's unsettling since I do my own servicing.





ban said:


> Anybody know if Fox has addressed the porosity issue? I have this problem but I don't want to send the fork and have the lowers replaced to find that the new lowers have the same problem


Anyone seen a recall from Fox?? The dropout seems to have more bubbles or "porosity" than what's posted earlier in this thread and I haven't seen any cracks yet. Never seen a dropout fail.. though it's not like these haven't been through QC/inspection


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## 11053 (Sep 19, 2009)

Deerhill said:


> Anyone seen a recall from Fox?? The dropout seems to have more bubbles or "porosity" than what's posted earlier in this thread and I haven't seen any cracks yet. Never seen a dropout fail.. though it's not like these haven't been through QC/inspection


I sent my fork in to Fox for porosity inspection and they said I have absolutely nothing to worry about and that they were sorry I had to go through the trouble of sending it in.
I can see lots of pores, but what do I know?
Techs and engineers looked at it I'm told and it was given the OK.
FOX paid shipping both ways and even rushed the return shipping back to me.
Been riding it ever since.
So far, so good.
Great fork.
I trust FOX, so I have yet to up the coverage on my dental plan.


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## The-Flow-Zone (Jan 2, 2015)

Junersun said:


> Just make sure you are not riding in anything that would snag up on it. QR facing forward is not settling


They face upwards, not forwards. And if your gonna snag on them, your in deep dodo anyways! the pics are a little deceiving!


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

The-Flow-Zone said:


> They face upwards, not forwards. And if your gonna snag on them, your in deep dodo anyways! the pics are a little deceiving!


Agreed. My Manitou QR15 points up, ahead of the lower. No issues whatsoever.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

11053 said:


> I sent my fork in to Fox for porosity inspection and they said I have absolutely nothing to worry about and that they were sorry I had to go through the trouble of sending it in.
> I can see lots of pores, but what do I know?
> Techs and engineers looked at it I'm told and it was given the OK.
> FOX paid shipping both ways and even rushed the return shipping back to me.
> ...


Wow, so they didn't replace it? Crap, hope I didn't send mine in for nothing then.


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## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

ColinL said:


> Agreed. My Manitou QR15 points up, ahead of the lower. No issues whatsoever.


Thanks for the affirmation on that guys! yeah the picture initially got me a little worried.


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

mik8yu said:


> I would love to know the answer to the above too. Am on a talas 160mm thinking if to get the float 180 and then lower it to 160 for my other frame.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Love my Fox 36 TALAS 29 160/130. Works great at either travel setting. Had the Pike single air before and played with the spacers to get the right feel for airspring progressiveness for me. Nice fork but the Fox has been better for me. As you probably know, even the new TALAS has the old fixed negative mechanical spring not the new self adjusting negative air spring. I'm thinking I may be in the sweet spot for this set-up (#200 geared up) and it may not work as well for riders lighter or heavier than me. It also has a smaller air spring chamber so you run higher pressures for the same weight/sag as the float. This also makes it a little more progressive on the spring rate.
All in all it adds up to perfect for me, but less adjustable than the float. YMMV.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

So I stripped my 36's RC2 damper down as I wanted a look at the innards. The first thing I noticed is it's definately not using 10wt red oil but a 5wt oil of some brand as mentioned on the press day, it was also full of swarf from machining, clearly some parts had not been cleaned properly and finally Fox are using a straight shim stack for HSC compared to tapered in the past RC2's I have seen.


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## The-Flow-Zone (Jan 2, 2015)

Bummer it had machining junk in it...
They use a straight Hydraulic 5wt fluid, It made by Mobil, DTE10ME, as i was told by FOX.
Mobil DTE 10 Excel? Series
The cSt value of it compared to the Red 10wt is significantly less, hence the significantly better damper feel. FOX sells this fluid PT#803-11-006. I would not anything else (yet).
We also have been replacing the 20Wt Gold bath oil with a good lighter wt suspension oil. The 20wt is fine in 50+ degree weather, but anything below it gets a little slow.
We use Golden Spectro 7.5wt, AND, the seals come dry from the factory, this ok to keep things cleaner but not as slippery as they can be. 
Typically when the fork is serviced with lighter bath oil and lubed seals, you can add about 5-10psi more to the main air chamber.
Darn good fork though! 
See our new Q36R Quick Release for it. Q36R.com


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Here we go:


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

After talking to the Fox support guy, he said that using another oil would void the warranty since their "Gold" 20wt was formulated specifically for the stanchions and has suspended Kashima (I'm guessing like some sort of colloidal solution) bits in it. Funny I don't think this was a problem with previous years' Kashima coated stanchions?

I'm tearing mine down to drop in a travel spacer so I'll get to inspect it soon.

Bummer Rick that yours had FOD in it :-(


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## tiSS'er (Jan 6, 2004)

cheezwhip said:


> After talking to the Fox support guy, he said that using another oil would void the warranty since their "Gold" 20wt was formulated specifically for the stanchions and has suspended Kashima (I'm guessing like some sort of colloidal solution) bits in it. Funny I don't think this was a problem with previous years' Kashima coated stanchions?
> 
> I'm tearing mine down soon to drop in a travel spacer so I'll get to inspect it soon.
> 
> Bummer Rick that yours had FOD in it :-(


I just serviced the lowers of my 36 with the 20 weight gold, and I can tell you that stuff is very slick, very thick, and strangely rather sticky. All good traits if you ask me. It is much slicker than standard fork or motor oil, and it sticks to everything. My fork seemed to have the correct oil levels.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

cheezwhip said:


> After talking to the Fox support guy, he said that using another oil would void the warranty since their "Gold" 20wt was formulated specifically for the stanchions and has suspended Kashima (I'm guessing like some sort of colloidal solution) bits in it. Funny I don't think this was a problem with previous years' Kashima coated stanchions?
> 
> I'm tearing mine down to drop in a travel spacer so I'll get to inspect it soon.
> 
> Bummer Rick that yours had FOD in it :-(


I wonder if the last style 36 seals and rc2 from 2011-2014 are compatible with the new gold, it seems to do really good so far in the 2015 36. One thing I notice though, there's that first sticky/resistance to break it free when I push down on it before each ride.

The aluminum slivers in the photo were in the old RC2s for the first couple changes too, it went away after that. Good reason to flush it out after break in.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

tiSS'er said:


> I just serviced the lowers of my 36 with the 20 weight gold, and I can tell you that stuff is very slick, very thick, and strangely rather sticky. All good traits if you ask me. It is much slicker than standard fork or motor oil, and it sticks to everything. My fork seemed to have the correct oil levels.


It's not that red assembly lube is it? You put some of that stuff between your fingers and it would leave strings when you pulled them apart. Sticky as melted bubble gum and slicker than snot! And, the stuff feels like it's something like 40wt!


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Today, I was searching around for good pricing on the 160/130 29" model for my Lenz. I have plans to ride it extensively in the low position, as my bike can either go 130 or 150 in the rear depending upon the rockers I use. 130f/130r for pedally "trail" days, and 160f/150r (130f for the climbs) on tech/park days. A guy from a place I was shopping told me that Fox doesn't recommend this - that the 130 is mainly for climbs, and riding it extensive in its lower setting can cause problems.

Can anyone confirm or refute this?

Thanks!


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## PiousInquisitor (Oct 19, 2014)

kragu said:


> Today, I was searching around for good pricing on the 160/130 29" model for my Lenz. I have plans to ride it extensively in the low position, as my bike can either go 130 or 150 in the rear depending upon the rockers I use. 130f/130r for pedally "trail" days, and 160f/150r (130f for the climbs) on tech/park days. A guy from a place I was shopping told me that Fox doesn't recommend this - that the 130 is mainly for climbs, and riding it extensive in its lower setting can cause problems.
> 
> Can anyone confirm or refute this?
> 
> Thanks!


I assume you are taking about the Talas. On Fox's website it says to set the sag etc with the fork in the position you plan on riding in the most. From that I gather its fine to ride in the lowered position all the time.

Look down at the bottom of this page where it talks about the talas system.
http://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&id=462

With all that said I would contract Fox for a concrete answer.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Thanks much, PI. 

To follow up, the sales guy I talked to contacted Fox to clarify. The current TALAS models need only to be set up at the travel you intend to use most for best performance. You can run it at the lower setting without issue. 

Shout out to the guys at Tryon Bike for their thoroughness. They've certainly earned my business for their practices and pricing.


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## RyeBokeh (Feb 23, 2007)

*travel length decal*

Besides measuring the length of the stanchion tube is there a sticker of its travel length anywhere on the fork, similar to the Pike as shown on the left in the picture? https://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/RockShox-Pike-150mm-27.5158.jpg 
I haven't seen one of these forks in person yet.


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## Zatoichi (Oct 25, 2014)

RyeBokeh said:


> Besides measuring the length of the stanchion tube is there a sticker of its travel length anywhere on the fork, similar to the Pike as shown on the left in the picture? https://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/RockShox-Pike-150mm-27.5158.jpg
> I haven't seen one of these forks in person yet.


No there are not any markings on the stanchions...


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## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

RyeBokeh said:


> Besides measuring the length of the stanchion tube is there a sticker of its travel length anywhere on the fork, similar to the Pike as shown on the left in the picture? https://brimages.bikeboardmedia.net...loads/2013/07/RockShox-Pike-150mm-27.5158.jpg
> I haven't seen one of these forks in person yet.


No, only a wheel size sticker. Travel can be changed so easily it would not make sense. For the longest time Fox was sold out of 27.5"/160mm forks (due to port strikes) but for whatever reason they had 27.5"/140mm forks in stock. Pull two 10mm spacers and presto, 160mm.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

DirtMerchantBicycles said:


> No, only a wheel size sticker. Travel can be changed so easily it would not make sense. For the longest time Fox was sold out of 27.5"/160mm forks (due to port strikes) but for whatever reason they had 27.5"/140mm forks in stock. Pull two 10mm spacers and presto, 160mm.


Just be careful when you unscrew the coupler - I think they loctite that and it strips really easily.

(Don't ask me how I know)


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

kragu said:


> Today, I was searching around for good pricing on the 160/130 29" model for my Lenz. I have plans to ride it extensively in the low position, as my bike can either go 130 or 150 in the rear depending upon the rockers I use. 130f/130r for pedally "trail" days, and 160f/150r (130f for the climbs) on tech/park days. A guy from a place I was shopping told me that Fox doesn't recommend this - that the 130 is mainly for climbs, and riding it extensive in its lower setting can cause problems.
> 
> Can anyone confirm or refute this?
> 
> Thanks!


Wish I had seen this sooner. As I posted in the Lenz thread of the Lunchbox, Fox said the Talas can be run full time in either position unlike the RS dual position. I spoke directly with Fox and got it in a email as confirmation.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

TwoTone said:


> Wish I had seen this sooner. As I posted in the Lenz thread of the Lunchbox, Fox said the Talas can be run full time in either position unlike the RS dual position. I spoke directly with Fox and got it in a email as confirmation.


No worries, TT. You've been plenty helpful already. My 36 is on its way, here by Wednesday. Not sure where my 5" rockers are to complete the project, though.

Do you have any input as to how the fork feels in the travel mode that it's not set up for? Say I set the fork to feel good at 160, is 130 going to be painfully harsh? If it feels good at 130, is 160 going to dive at every opportunity?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

kragu said:


> No worries, TT. You've been plenty helpful already. My 36 is on its way, here by Wednesday. Not sure where my 5" rockers are to complete the project, though.
> 
> Do you have any input as to how the fork feels in the travel mode that it's not set up for? Say I set the fork to feel good at 160, is 130 going to be painfully harsh? If it feels good at 130, is 160 going to dive at every opportunity?


Again because I never got to the point of going to a park with it, I never shot off an email to Fox. My plan was to ask them the same question I asked CC about my DBAcs.

Basically ask, once I find the setting I like in X travel mode, what changes would you suggest to keep it as close to the same when switching to the other.

So far, Fox has been very responsive to my calls and emails while I was considering the 36 and afterwards for support. I would give them a call.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

TwoTone said:


> Again because I never got to the point of going to a park with it, I never shot off an email to Fox. My plan was to ask them the same question I asked CC about my DBAcs.
> 
> Basically ask, once I find the setting I like in X travel mode, what changes would you suggest to keep it as close to the same when switching to the other.
> 
> So far, Fox has been very responsive to my calls and emails while I was considering the 36 and afterwards for support. I would give them a call.


Thanks. There are a handful of trails around here that a short travel, steep angled trail bike would be wonderful for, culminating with a descent that you'd need every bit of 160 up front. Hoping to find that performance between two modes isn't too far off.

I'll give Fox a ring.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

cheezwhip said:


> Just be careful when you unscrew the coupler - I think they loctite that and it strips really easily.
> 
> (Don't ask me how I know)


 Mine was rediculous, it stripped even with a torch..useless. They might use JB Weld:lol::madman:



leejords said:


> Just completed a lower service on my 2015 36 and the air side was completely stuck and took many taps with the fox tool and rubber mallet. I am now a little concerned that I may have done some sort of damage.
> 
> Currently it is holding air once back together and on the surface all seems fine. Anyone else had a similar experience?
> 
> ...





EVROS said:


> the FOX 36 Talas 26 180 Fit RC2 How often wants maintenance





Salespunk said:


> I have done several services already and not run into this. Do you use the Fox tools for shaft removal?





Haggis said:


> You're hitting a block, not the actual footnuts right?





rscecil007 said:


> I just sent mine back in again for this very thing. I called to ask the rep about it and if it was really needed, and practically before I could finish telling him it was due to porosity issue, he told me I needed to send it in and get the the lowers replaced.


The maintenance time has been chnged/ updated, check the site. Looks like new fork bushings and air spring parts were added to that interval too. 11053 had a thread on here but I can't find it.


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## smellurfingers (Aug 18, 2012)

Just got a new SB6C with the Fox 36. Trying to get the forks sorted. Initially had them sagged at 20%, but after a couple rides, dropped them to 25% or so. Still not where I want them on trail chatter. They hold a line fine but I feel every rut, bump hole and rock. I found that when I held the front end up by the handle bars, I could push down on the lowers and get a few more mm of travel. When I released the fork would go back into the lowers a bit. I aired the fork down and kept the valve open while I pushed down on the forks. with all the air out the fork would travel back up an inch and a half or so. I did the zip tie trick between the upper and the wiper and air rushed out of both legs and the forks stayed down. Aired up to 60, gave them a coupe of pushes and the pressure equalized. Pumped them back up and started setting sag again.

Are the lowers now negatively pressured because I did the zip tie thing when they were collapsed? Should I do it with the forks extended? before trying to dial the fork in? Any advice?


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

U can't do the zip tie thing the fork extended, (with them pressured up). They should be fine now that you have bled the trapped air in the lowers. The ride will be much more supple after the trapped air is bled from the chambers. Mine had air in them too. Every few rides, I need to re do the zip tie procedure otherwise I won't use full travel. I think my negative seals are bad and are letting air into the main chambers. I need to call Fox and have them warrantied, but I'm too busy at work during the week.


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## smellurfingers (Aug 18, 2012)

I still can pull about an inch of travel out of the lowers with the front end unweighted and in the air. Is this normal?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Yes you now have a negative vacuum in the lower legs which is causing the suck down. It's a red herring, every single fork will have pressure at the bottom of the stroke ma day doing the zip tie thing you will increase the chances of crap been drawn past the seals.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Threw a TALAS 160/130 on my 6" rear Lunchbox. Super stoked to ride...


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

I always knew my two Fox 36's felt totally different and now I know why:

I stumped up the money and had one Pushed as it felt very very harsh. If only I had the above information sooner.


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## RyeBokeh (Feb 23, 2007)

I really wanted to give the new 36 a go for a new build, but knowing that there are some of these floating around I may have to get another Pike.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

RyeBokeh said:


> I really wanted to give the new 36 a go for a new build, but knowing that there are some of these floating around I may have to get another Pike.


Get the 36, you won't regret it.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Rick Draper said:


> I always knew my two Fox 36's felt totally different and now I know why:
> 
> Sadly I stumped up the money and had one Pushed as it felt very very harsh. If only I had the above information sooner.


I think I read on Vital or something that their test fork had a different valving, but this is interesting. Wonder how many went out like this. I'm guessing since mine has been back to Fox twice if I had the original valving, they did the TSB while it was back there and I'm good to go now.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

I rode my Pike hard for almost 2 years before getting a 36. I don't remember the Pike feeling as good. Both are supple up top, but right out of the box, the 36 feels so good mid stroke. I got the Pike to feel really really good, but maybe I just never dialed in the Pike just right (not for lack of trying). So far the 36 is better, and I have the supposedly inferior feeling TALAS. 

My 2¢.


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## expatrider (Feb 1, 2005)

Rick Draper said:


> I always knew my two Fox 36's felt totally different and now I know why:
> 
> I stumped up the money and had one Pushed as it felt very very harsh. If only I had the above information sooner.


Interesting. I rode one on a demo HD3 last year and it felt pretty poor. But rode one more recently and it was so good I got rid of the Pike on my N3 and the 36 replaced it.


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> I think I read on Vital or something that their test fork had a different valving, but this is interesting. Wonder how many went out like this. I'm guessing since mine has been back to Fox twice if I had the original valving, they did the TSB while it was back there and I'm good to go now.


since you've had Avalanche cartridges in the past, do you see the need to go that route for the 36? i rode one recently & stock, it felt mighty nice for the limited time i had on it.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

^^ No. (Not to put words into Ryan's mouth)


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> I think I read on Vital or something that their test fork had a different valving, but this is interesting. Wonder how many went out like this. I'm guessing since mine has been back to Fox twice if I had the original valving, they did the TSB while it was back there and I'm good to go now.


Yeah, I have a different drawing for the base valve w/ 3 or 4 more HSC shims.

On another note, have you guys noticed the rebound shims uses standard ID while the compression shims uses metric? Fan-friggin'-tastic! This rank right up there w/ all those new hub axle "standards"!


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

cheezwhip said:


> ^^ No. (Not to put words into Ryan's mouth)


What Sir Cheez said. I'm happy with the performance bone stock. This fork is absolutely fantastic and walks all over a Pike when the trail gets rough and rowdy.


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

I have a 2015 Talas 36 that should show up this week. It will be interesting to see how it compares against the Manitou Mattoc that is on the bike now.

The bike started with a 34 Talas Evo. I don't need to go into detail on the Evo other than to say it was not great. It was replaced with a 34 Talas Factory model. The 34 Factory is a big step up in performance from the Evo model, but still didn't do it for me, so I picked up a Mattoc Pro.

The Mattoc has been fantastic. It doesn't have a travel adjust but I am learning to ride without it. The quality of Mattoc suspension is better than the 34 Factory, especially noticable when encountering successive hits. 

I am hoping the new 36 Talas RC2 will at least equal the Mattoc performance and I will be happy, but will then need to decide on whether to keep the 36 or the Mattoc.

One comment, with all the above forks, flex or lack of precision / stiffness in the handling was never an issue. I was a little worried with the Fox 34 but at 160mm travel, but no issues. Same with the Mattoc, it tracks well and feels solid. In the past I have run 36 in both the 160mm RC2 and 180mm RC2 versions, so I don't expect anything different in terms of no flex and precision handling. I just hope the newer RC2 system is at least as good as the older 2010 - 2012 versions.

I am anxiously awaiting the new 36 arrival and stoked to give a go. Woo hoo.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

RC2 is smoother than the last version, the seal head is not as sticky. The lower gold lube (or whatever the bottle is called) feels much smoother too. Air spring still not as smooth as vanilla, chassis is *super* light this year though compared to the 2010


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## 2xTurner (Aug 24, 2011)

Anyone run across an issue with a top-out clunk (you can hear and feel)? Duplicated by pushing down about 20mm and pulling up. Rebound adjuster works fine (i.e. I can slow it down enough so it won't make the noise, but it's way too slow to ride that way). Just started doing it the last ride. Checked: leg bolts are tight, top caps are tight, no play in headset, wheel/axle are tight. Def from the fork. 27.5 160mm version non talas. Thx


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Hum. 
Got a RA from Fox to redo my pre 10/2014 fork and update the tune and rebound bits to all metric  Est cost is ~$75.


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## 2xTurner (Aug 24, 2011)

2xTurner said:


> Anyone run across an issue with a top-out clunk (you can hear and feel)? Duplicated by pushing down about 20mm and pulling up. Rebound adjuster works fine (i.e. I can slow it down enough so it won't make the noise, but it's way too slow to ride that way). Just started doing it the last ride. Checked: leg bolts are tight, top caps are tight, no play in headset, wheel/axle are tight. Def from the fork. 27.5 160mm version non talas. Thx


Nevermind, had more time to mess with it today. The zip tie did the trick.


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

My Talas 36 came in on Friday, got it installed and setup on the bike.
Me 190lbs before gear, on Trance SX bike, for riding the shore.
Setup: 155 PSI, LSC 12/14 of 25, HSC 11/12 of 22, rebound 12 of 20 (all from full open)

Overall the fork felt great. Very controlled, stable and predictable. Might be the placebo effect but it felt like the 36 might be stiffer than the Mattoc. The Talas was handy on a couple of steep climbs, so that less body re-position required to keep the front end down.

My bar height was dropped almost 1/2 inch from the Manitou Mattoc 160 previously on the bike. Might put the last spacer under the stem to push the bar back higher. The 36 has about 170mm stanchion showing and is the 160/130mm version.

The 15mm axle and caps were installed with the 20mm axle and spacers in the pack. I didn't want to pull out the 15mm caps to check for any possible pitting or cracks, but I guess I should.

Not certain, that if after two rides I have air trapped. I do remember using most of the travel on the first ride, but was well over 1 inch from full travel on the second ride. Is the only way to equalize the zip tie procedure?


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## expatrider (Feb 1, 2005)

rideitall said:


> My Talas 36 came in on Friday, got it installed and setup on the bike.
> Me 190lbs before gear, on Trance SX bike, for riding the shore.
> Setup: 155 PSI, LSC 12/14 of 25, HSC 11/12 of 22, rebound 12 of 20 (all from full open)
> 
> ...


Why are you thinking you have air trapped? If it's because you're not using full travel, then make sure sag is correct (you say 155psi which doesn't sound right), and also try backing off the HSC. You have a lot of damping (12 clicks) and that will cause it to ramp up a lot, and you obviously don't need that much damping if you're not using all the travel.


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

expatrider said:


> Why are you thinking you have air trapped? If it's because you're not using full travel, then make sure sag is correct (you say 155psi which doesn't sound right), and also try backing off the HSC. You have a lot of damping (12 clicks) and that will cause it to ramp up a lot, and you obviously don't need that much damping if you're not using all the travel.


The recommended sag is 15-20% or 24-32mm, I setup sag right in the middle at 28mm. Started at 145psi and gradually increased to 155psi to get 28mm sag. As far as the adjustments, I started at 10 of 22 for HSC and 12/25 for LSC, then adjusted to feel (back alley test). Out on the trail I did adjust a little more to setup to my taste. Will have to count to see where I ended up.

No complaint on how the fork feels, it feels right, just curious that if after 2 rides I could have air trapped as I am not using all the travel. Perhaps I will drop back down to 150PSI for the next ride. It is a fine balance between getting the setting correct in having a nice smooth ramp up on bigger hits, while still having the small bump feels but not too much dive.

NOTE: I just read the setup guide again, the sag measurement should be done with compression adjustments fully open. If anything that would mean more air to get the same sag.

New fork on bike in natural habitat.


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## The Squeaky Wheel (Dec 30, 2003)

rideitall....based on my experience with owning both a 27.5 and a 29 36Float, your preload sounds really high for your rider weight to me.

I'm just sayin......


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## expatrider (Feb 1, 2005)

rideitall said:


> The recommended sag is 15-20% or 24-32mm, I setup sag right in the middle at 28mm. Started at 145psi and gradually increased to 155psi to get 28mm sag. As far as the adjustments, I started at 10 of 22 for HSC and 12/25 for LSC, then adjusted to feel (back alley test). Out on the trail I did adjust a little more to setup to my taste. Will have to count to see where I ended up.
> 
> No complaint on how the fork feels, it feels right, just curious that if after 2 rides I could have air trapped as I am not using all the travel. Perhaps I will drop back down to 150PSI for the next ride. It is a fine balance between getting the setting correct in having a nice smooth ramp up on bigger hits, while still having the small bump feels but not too much dive.
> 
> ...


just experiment with settings a bit more before you start freaking out about trapped air. It sounds like you have too much air psi, and way too much HSC.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

The Squeaky Wheel said:


> rideitall....based on my experience with owning both a 27.5 and a 29 36Float, your preload sounds really high for your rider weight to me.


were either of them TALAS, or both Float?

because the air spring is totally different, and just glancing at the TALAS 36 sag guide, I see that 155psi is the baseline for 200-210 pounds. Meanwhile, the Float 36 RC2 is 80psi for a rider of the same weight.


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## The Squeaky Wheel (Dec 30, 2003)

ColinL said:


> were either of them TALAS, or both Float?
> 
> because the air spring is totally different, and just glancing at the TALAS 36 sag guide, I see that 155psi is the baseline for 200-210 pounds. Meanwhile, the Float 36 RC2 is 80psi for a rider of the same weight.


that's a valid point. Both are Float.

At 170-175 geared up, my 29" is preloaded to 80-82, my 27.5" goes 50-55 depending on terrain

My 29 has been PUSH'd, my 27.5 is currently at Push getting the same love.

I don't do TALAS. Been burned too many times by that system over the years and don't feel any need for it, even on my 650 Nomad. I've learned to adjust my riding style.


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

Will drop the pressure by 5 psi and see what happens, but I did get 28mm or 17-18% sag at 155 psi. Maybe my bathroom scale of out and I weigh more than 190psi (oh ****), that or the shock pump is not 100% accurate (I like that option better). 

That said, the shock still felt really good, even if I didn't use all the travel.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

I think it's kind of weird that the Fox tech documents suggest 15-20% sag for the Talas 36 and 15-25% for the Float 36.

Meanwhile, Manitou suggests 20-30% for the Mattoc.

15% sounds like XC racing stiff. If you're enduro racing and have a lot of pedaling to do, maybe go that stiff. But I'd start more in the 25% range on your Talas 36.


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## The Squeaky Wheel (Dec 30, 2003)

ColinL said:


> I think it's kind of weird that the Fox tech documents suggest 15-20% sag for the Talas 36 and 15-25% for the Float 36.


yet another reason why friends don't let friends do TALAS


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

ColinL said:


> I think it's kind of weird that the Fox tech documents suggest 15-20% sag for the Talas 36 and 15-25% for the Float 36.
> 
> Meanwhile, Manitou suggests 20-30% for the Mattoc.
> 
> 15% sounds like XC racing stiff. If you're enduro racing and have a lot of pedaling to do, maybe go that stiff. But I'd start more in the 25% range on your Talas 36.


Never looked at the sag range on the Float, that is strange, that they would be different. The only issue I have with increasing the amount of sag is it would need to be offset with additional LSC to keep from brake dive. Additional LSC can make be even more detrimental to how the fork can handle small bumps as compared to increased air spring.

I will record my current LSC/HSC settings before messing around as the fork does feel good. It will be interesting to re-measure the sag with current setting, then open up the LSC/HSC to see what difference it would make.

I might also let all air out then refill to see if that changes anything.


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## PiousInquisitor (Oct 19, 2014)

rideitall said:


> Never looked at the sag range on the Float, that is strange, that they would be different. The only issue I have with increasing the amount of sag is it would need to be offset with additional LSC to keep from brake dive. Additional LSC can make be even more detrimental to how the fork can handle small bumps as compared to increased air spring.
> 
> I will record my current LSC/HSC settings before messing around as the fork does feel good. It will be interesting to re-measure the sag with current setting, then open up the LSC/HSC to see what difference it would make.
> 
> I might also let all air out then refill to see if that changes anything.


I have a 2015 Talas and weigh the same as you. My settings are:

Pressure: 146 - 147

Measurements are from closed (full clockwise)

HSC: 18

LSC: 12

Rebound: 9

Useful links:
36 | FOX

FORK- 2015 36 FLOAT 140mm-180mm and TALAS (up to 160mm) | Bike Help Center | FOX


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Rick Draper said:


> I always knew my two Fox 36's felt totally different and now I know why:
> 
> I stumped up the money and had one Pushed as it felt very very harsh. If only I had the above information sooner.


So how does one know if their 2015 36 needs the update? Mine has never felt harsh that I can tell, although I've tuned it a bunch (volume spacers) to get it feeling right... so I'm still curious if mine might need an update.

Looked at my box and had 6/25/2014 (build?) date... When I go to the Fox service page, and enter my S/N, says it can't be found...


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

LCW said:


> So how does one know if their 2015 36 needs the update? Mine has never felt harsh that I can tell, although I've tuned it a bunch (volume spacers) to get it feeling right... so I'm still curious if mine might need an update.
> 
> Looked at my box and had 6/25/2014 (build?) date... When I go to the Fox service page, and enter my S/N, says it can't be found...


Been in comm with Fox service cent. They tell me the tunes changed on Oct of 14.
I'm thinking if you're okay with the way your fork is performing, why take the $$ hit to get it retuned? I was quoted it'll cost about $70. $25 shipping there and prob the same back, two weeks of down time at a min, and you're over a Benjamin for no perceptible gain in performance? What's the thinking?


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

They do bike stuff at the Baxter MN service center now which is only a couple hours from me. Had my Float X shock serviced there last summer and it was under a week turnaround total. If they do forks there (could be it's just shocks) then it's a no brainer to me. Plus I'm the process of tearing the bike down for a frame swap so the timing is good.


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## PiousInquisitor (Oct 19, 2014)

When I send my fork and shock to fox for service it's back in a week or less.


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

^^^ it's kinda bummer to know there might be some of these around yet! You buying a full price brand new fork unlikely to be found for much less than retail and you don't know if you are getting the old or updated version!

the least fox should offer is to update for free if you send them for service! Can't believe they wanna charge you $70!

is there any stated reason from fox to justify the update?


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

What are the two different valve combinations? @16-14-13-spacer looks the same as past RC2 dampers.. what was the original 2015 tune

The TSB link on the site is nothing, you just end up back on that sketch page that is posted above.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

I did hear that they built too much compression into the forks and everyone was saying they had to run both compressions close to open. So they likely pushed the tuning curve lower, so you can run more clicks to be able to tune both directions.


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

I checked over my setup last night, but didn't end up touching the air pressure. 

Was running: LSC: 12, HSC: 14, Rebound: 12, sag was measured at 28MM or 17/18%.

Opened up LSC / HSC and measured sag again and got almost 34MM or about 21%.

Reset to: LSC 11, HSC: 12, Rebound 11, felt a little softer off the top, but no ride time to confirm setup. Standing on the bike and bouncing I can use all but just over 1 inch of the travel.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Deerhill said:


> What are the two different valve combinations? @16-14-13-spacer looks the same as past RC2 dampers.. what was the original 2015 tune
> 
> The TSB link on the site is nothing, you just end up back on that sketch page that is posted above.


The earlier valving combination was the following from the compression bulkhead:
16.6mm od x 7mm id x 0.10mm
16.6mm od x 7mm id x 0.15mm
16.6mm od x 7mm id x 0.15mm
16.6mm od x 7mm id x 0.15mm
16.6mm od x 7mm id x 0.15mm
16.6mm od x 7mm id x 0.15mm
16.6mm od x 7mm id x 0.15mm
9.6mm od x 7mm id x 0.25mm

As you can see its a considerable difference between the valving of the two setups.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Rick Draper said:


> The earlier valving combination was the following from the compression bulkhead:
> 16.6mm od x 7mm id x 0.10mm
> 16.6mm od x 7mm id x 0.15mm
> 16.6mm od x 7mm id x 0.15mm
> ...


Looks like they ditched the spacer for all those 16.6... that looks like a garbage tune.. do you know if the spacing/overall stack height is the same between the two?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

What was in my first 36 RC2:

The stack height is shallower hence the need for the two 9.6mm od x 7mm id x 0.25mm shims nearest the bolt head on the opposite side of the pressure bulkhead to the shim stack.


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## RyeBokeh (Feb 23, 2007)

_Rick,

Were you an early adopter of the 36 or did you pick up this fork recently?

There's some deals out there on this fork but I'm just trying to gauge how likely it would be to receive an early valve combination if purchased from a shop now._

edit: Nevermind, I looked earlier in the thread and found my answer.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

RyeBokeh said:


> _Rick,
> 
> Were you an early adopter of the 36 or did you pick up this fork recently?
> 
> ...


I have one that I got late last year as well. Its was bought in the UK so it might be a earlier valved version. I will find out when I open it up I guess.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Rick Draper said:


> I have one that I got late last year as well. Its was bought in the UK so it might be a earlier valved version. I will find out when I open it up I guess.


So the fork is on its way back to me...tomorrow. They replaced the standard rebound shims w/ metric ones and stuck in a new check spring...a stiffer mid-valve as consequence maybe? Also, extended the thing to full 160, and the price was for a full FIT service.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Pau11y said:


> So the fork is on its way back to me...tomorrow. They replaced the standard rebound shims w/ metric ones and stuck in a new check spring...a stiffer mid-valve as consequence maybe? Also, extended the thing to full 160, and the price was for a full FIT service.


Thanks that's good to know.


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## Starkhünd (Dec 13, 2013)

Pau11y said:


> So the fork is on its way back to me...tomorrow. They replaced the standard rebound shims w/ metric ones and stuck in a new check spring...a stiffer mid-valve as consequence maybe? Also, extended the thing to full 160, and the price was for a full FIT service.


The date on mine is 7/31/2014. Please send us your feedback when you get it back and test it out.


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## rondre3000 (May 29, 2009)

This may have been asked before, but is there any difference between the OEM versions spec'd as upgrades (like on Santa Cruz, Ibis, etc) and aftermarket forks?


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Pau11y said:


> So the fork is on its way back to me...tomorrow. They replaced the standard rebound shims w/ metric ones and stuck in a new check spring...a stiffer mid-valve as consequence maybe? Also, extended the thing to full 160, and the price was for a full FIT service.


Probably the larger check pring on the left, IME heavier riders or people that use yellow coil or stiffer air spring rate should use a stiffer rebound setup too (instead of just adding air spring spacers).


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Starkhünd said:


> The date on mine is 7/31/2014. Please send us your feedback when you get it back and test it out.


You got five bucks?


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## Monster Truck (Sep 17, 2009)

*Bottom out bumper moved*

So the end of last summer on the Enchilada Ride in Moab, about half way down I started feeling like I forgot how to ride. I was hot, slow and getting worked. Most of that was due to it being hot and me being weak. However, something changed on the fork. I have been riding the xc bike over the winter and forgot about all of this. But now I am on the Nomad/36 bike and the fork still felt like crap- time for a lowers service.

The first note is positive: the fork had the factory spec oil volume in it!!!

When I pulled the lowers off I quickly saw the problem. On the air side, the bottom out bumper had migrated up to a space between the bushing and the seal. That will make some stiction.

After reassembly, it was apparent that I had solved the problem. I had a panic moment because I had almost no rebound damping. I though I somehow killed my damper cartridge. Alas, with no stiction I actually need to add some clickers back.

Time to ride!


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## paulki (Nov 17, 2010)

Pau11y said:


> So the fork is on its way back to me...tomorrow. They replaced the standard rebound shims w/ metric ones and stuck in a new check spring...a stiffer mid-valve as consequence maybe? Also, extended the thing to full 160, and the price was for a full FIT service.


Pau11y,
I saw you were on the Pike (forum-wise too) till recently.
Can you summarize your personal experience comparing both PIKE and FOX 36?
All the info is highly appreciated - riding impression, reliability, service etc. 
(I am running Pike now with somewhat 'mixed' feelings, and may be changing it to FOX) 
Thanks,
Paul


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## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

paulki said:


> Pau11y,
> I saw you were on the Pike (forum-wise too) till recently.
> Can you summarize your personal experience comparing both PIKE and FOX 36?
> All the info is highly appreciated - riding impression, reliability, service etc.
> ...


I'd be very interested in hearing the same.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

If it helps I have come off a Pike as well.

The Pike was a nice fork but I did not have much luck with it reliability wise. I had to rebuild the charger damper a few times due to it getting air in. Don't get me wrong though it was light years better than a float CTD factory 34.

The 36 is IMHO a whole different beast, it's a fair bit stiffer and more composed when the going gets rough. I've had no reliability issues but my first 36 did not ride anywhere near as plush as the second I bought. This is down to the running valving change which I will now do to the first one.

Service wise both my 36 have had the fluid levels correct from the factory and to service them is easy. I'd say a pike damper is slightly easier to service due to the bleed fitting but other than that they are both pretty much identical.


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

Rick Draper said:


> my first 36 did not ride anywhere near as plush as the second I bought. This is down to the running valving change which I will now do to the first one.


is the production date a definitive answer to which valve stack the fork has? any other way to know before buying one?


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

paulki said:


> Pau11y,
> I saw you were on the Pike (forum-wise too) till recently.
> Can you summarize your personal experience comparing both PIKE and FOX 36?
> All the info is highly appreciated - riding impression, reliability, service etc.
> ...


I had both forks simultaneously and rode them back to back for a while. The difference comes down to how you will use the fork. The Pike is much more compliant in the mid range. This is what a lot of people would call plush but riding it back to back with the 36 shows the weakness. It is simply not as controlled as the 36. The 36 is also noticeably stiffer laterally. It is the difference between an Escalade and M3. Neither is bad and both have their place. If you push hard on rowdy trails get the 36. If your riding does not involve steep chutes, high speeds and a lot of rocks go for the Pike.


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## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

Salespunk said:


> I had both forks simultaneously and rode them back to back for a while. The difference comes down to how you will use the fork. The Pike is much more compliant in the mid range. This is what a lot of people would call plush but riding it back to back with the 36 shows the weakness. It is simply not as controlled as the 36. The 36 is also noticeably stiffer laterally. It is the difference between an Escalade and M3. Neither is bad and both have their place. If you push hard on rowdy trails get the 36. If your riding does not involve steep chutes, high speeds and a lot of rocks go for the Pike.


Salespunk: What a great comparison.
So it seems there's definitely conditions where a Fox 36 is the better choice (the situations you described). Likewise I assume it benefits more rowdy and even heavier riders.
In your opinion, are there situations where a Pike is actually PREFERABLE over the Fox 36? Or in those (less aggressive) conditions does the Pike just become more equal to the 36?


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

jon123 said:


> Salespunk: What a great comparison.
> So it seems there's definitely conditions where a Fox 36 is the better choice (the situations you described). Likewise I assume it benefits more rowdy and even heavier riders.
> In your opinion, are there situations where a Pike is actually PREFERABLE over the Fox 36? Or in those (less aggressive) conditions does the Pike just become more equal to the 36?


Less aggressive riders or on smoother terrain I would pick the Pike.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

jon123 said:


> I'd be very interested in hearing the same.


Some preface, I'm 195 lbs kitted up and ran a lot of tokens...3 tokens in the Pike, and 3 orange + 1blue in the 36. Pressure is ~65 in the Pike and 72 in the 36 to reach a sag of ~25%. The bike chassis is a large Tallboy LTc w/ DHF 2.5 front and DHR2 2.3 rear...tilts the HTA to ~-1* off OE specs. This info will be relevant for the paragraph below.

I run my 36 w/ the 20mm axle for my 29er. Overall the fork is just plain better than the Pike...chassis stiffness and suppleness at all speed ranges. I run both forks w/ a lot of tokens so they'll ramp up HARD towards end of stroke and keep me from bottoming. I typically come home w/ ~3/4" of stroke left unused. My typical ride is the CO/Front Range's big up/big down...thus 75 - 80% of my ride is spent in climbing mode (70 - 85% of my weight on the rear wheel) which is the condition I've tune the bike for. I want the very low speed of the fork's action to be absolutely free, so my front wheel doesn't ricochet off baby heads when it's so lightly weighted. This is where the 36 COMPLETELY outperforms the Pike.

The caveat to the Fox is it doesn't come in a 46mm offset, which is what my Pike is. I haven't had any time on the Fox since I installed a Works -1* HS on the bike (sent in for a retune and to get the rebound bits changed to metric), but have had some miles on the Pike w/ the new HS, so I can't comment on if the 36 has settled down. But, when I had the King HS on, the 36 w/ the 51mm offset felt a touch nervous at speeds whereas the Pike was noticeably more stable. The reverse is true at low speed uphill crawls...the 36 can negotiate switchbacks better than the Pike...1) because of the offset, but more importantly, it's stiffness allows me to crank into the fork in a tight switchback and it not go skittering/chattering off line. That said, one can compensate at low speeds a lot better than high w/ the two scenarios above. But, I'm hoping the -1* Works will help w/ the high speed w/o affecting the low speed of the 36. Still, I'd pick the 36 over the Pike simply because of the 20mm TA.

While I agree w/ Salespunk's statement that the Pike starts to open up in its mid range shaft speeds, I still think the 36 has better mid range control than the Pike.

IF budget is an issue, and IF you're a light aggressive rider/racer, Pike might be an option. Otherwise, you'll have a better fork w/ a 36...even if you have to get a Works HS.


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## hardboiled (Jun 10, 2006)

eh, I like the new 36, it definitely performs well. but I can't honestly say it performs any better than the Pike. I'd agree that the 36 feels a bit beefier (but at 190lbs I don't really notice a difference in stiffness when riding) and the pike is slightly smoother off the top of the stroke. if you have to have a 20mm axle, 170/180mm travel or adjustable high speed compression then sure, the 36 is your answer. but personally I'd have a hard time justifying the price difference considering how cheap you can find Pike's floating around online.


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## matadorCE (Jun 26, 2013)

I rode a Nomad with a 36 this weekend and I was definitely impressed with this fork. I have a Pike on my Bronson and the small bump compliance definitely felt better with the 36. I agree that the price difference isn't enough for me to ditch my Pike and get a 36. I was definitely impressed and hopefully the new 34 fork will feel similar to the 36. I did ride a 34 CTD fork and damn it was stiff on the small bump stuff even in Descend mode.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

What's the price difference? I only paid in the $800s for my Talas, so a non Talas should be less.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

TwoTone said:


> What's the price difference? I only paid in the $800s for my Talas, so a non Talas should be less.


Pike goes for around 550 on Amazon on a good day


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

TwoTone said:


> What's the price difference? I only paid in the $800s for my Talas, so a non Talas should be less.


Float is the same price, but it's a better performing fork than the talas, lighter too.


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

Just found this add on vitalmtb.com, it looks like the 36 will get a quick release axle as well. Sorry for the crappy quality of the picture.









I think after Sea Otter we will know more.


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## BikeIntelligencer (Jun 5, 2009)

Good catch... and wow, Fox responds to rider pref! A lot of us on this board said pinch bolts were a deal breaker...



randan said:


> Just found this add on vitalmtb.com, it looks like the 36 will get a quick release axle as well. Sorry for the crappy quality of the picture.
> 
> View attachment 979156
> 
> ...


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

If you look closely it has the new FIT4 damper (not the RC2) and the axle looks like a 15mm so maybe for 110x15mm hubs or for riders who want some threshold adjustment and a QR. I don't see them changing the RC2's 36 lowers at the minute.


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## BuickGN (Aug 25, 2008)

This fork seems like the answer to all of my wishes. I've been struggling with several options to upgrade from my total crap 34 Evo non damping fork. 

The 36 seems too good to be true. Actual separate high and low speed compression dials and rebound, all with a good range of adjustment. A great damper, great air spring, lower weight than my current 34, way more adjustment as mentioned, and a huge friction reduction, especially over my Talas model. 

I don't really need the stiffness of a 36 as the 34 currently feels fine but I am 240lbs so maybe I will notice a difference once I get it. If nothing else, it will be less stressed, maybe lasting longer than the 34. 

I do have one last question before I buy one. I've currently got 160mm of travel from my Fox 34. With the lower A-C of the 36 and with sag factored in, there would only be a 1-2mm difference in height if I went with a 170. In fact, I currently run about 10% sag at most because of the total lack of damping in my current fork so ride height would probably be the same if I went to up to 170mm of travel. No, I don't need 170mm of travel but I can't see a single downside to moving up to more travel. My bike came from the factory with 160F/140R travel. It currently has 160/160. I could get a little closer to the stock F-R ratio with a 170/160 (not that it really matters), while adding more travel front and rear all the while not raising the BB height at all. It seems like a win-win. What am I over looking?

One more thing now that I think of it... Is the Talas on the 36 worth getting? 170-130 would be kind of nice to have even though I almost never currently use it. Mine currently has a ton of friction and I hear the Talas is partially to blame. Anyone out there with a Talas 36 that can comment on the friction compared to the float? It's something I wouldn't mind having because I do a lot of climbing but on the flip side it would rarely get used. Thanks for any help. I'm excited and ready to pull the trigger on this. The actual biggest problem is not which height to get or Talas or Float, it is going to be how to hide it from the fiancée.


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## The-Flow-Zone (Jan 2, 2015)

Stay away from the Talas as is has the same crappy coil negative system as your old 34 and what has caused most of the performance issues.

To bad Fox is doing away with a true bolt on axle and not just so I can sell more Q36R's, but no more 20mm axles, bummer!


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

The-Flow-Zone said:


> To bad Fox is doing away with a true bolt on axle and not just so I can sell more Q36R's, but no more 20mm axles, bummer!


It will still sell the 20mm version. The one in the picture above is the replacement for the fork that sat one step below the RC2'd 36, it used to have a FIT RLC damper in it, now it has a FIT 4 damper.


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## BuickGN (Aug 25, 2008)

The-Flow-Zone said:


> Stay away from the Talas as is has the same crappy coil negative system as your old 34 and what has caused most of the performance issues.
> 
> To bad Fox is doing away with a true bolt on axle and not just so I can sell more Q36R's, but no more 20mm axles, bummer!


Thanks! Now that makes it a very easy choice.


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

Buick you could get the 180mm and play with the travel using spacers, most likely you will pay the same for the 160 or the 180, I'd go 180 and try both 170 and 160.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

mfa81 said:


> Buick you could get the 180mm and play with the travel using spacers, most likely you will pay the same for the 160 or the 180, I'd go 180 and try both 170 and 160.


Get the 170, so it'll include the 10mm spacer that you can pull out to do 180.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

The-Flow-Zone said:


> Stay away from the Talas as is has the same crappy coil negative system as your old 34 and what has caused most of the performance issues.
> 
> To bad Fox is doing away with a true bolt on axle and not just so I can sell more Q36R's, but no more 20mm axles, bummer!


Performance issues? Talking about 2015s, here? I've had trouble finding any info comparing the Floats and new TALAS system in real world situations...

My 2015 TALAS feels as good or better than my Pike, but I only have about 6-7 rides on it.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

kragu said:


> Performance issues? Talking about 2015s, here? I've had trouble finding any info comparing the Floats and new TALAS system in real world situations...
> 
> My 2015 TALAS feels as good or better than my Pike, but I only have about 6-7 rides on it.


I was going to say the same thing. Several reviews I have read said the performance gap between the old Talas and Floats are pretty much gone in the new 36.


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## BuickGN (Aug 25, 2008)

This keeps getting more and more interesting. So where is everyone finding deals on these forks???


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

BuickGN said:


> This keeps getting more and more interesting. So where is everyone finding deals on these forks???


Pre-ordered mine through BikeBob


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

BuickGN said:


> This keeps getting more and more interesting. So where is everyone finding deals on these forks???


BikerBob or Tryon Bike.


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

cc had a 20% with springbreak code, not sure it's still valid would bring it down to 840 + 10% aj cashback + $125 store credit that is a pretty good deal final price would be $630 or so assuming you use the store credit to buy something else you might need


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Problem is the coupon won't work on Fox products, and they don't have the 170 or 180mm versions. (Or didn't).


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

rscecil007 said:


> Problem is the coupon won't work on Fox products, and they don't have the 170 or 150mm versions. (Or didn't).


bc code doesn't work for fox, but cc code was working! I almost pulled the trigger on the 26" 160mm but they couldn't tell me the build date so I passed and will wait for the next 20% code from cc


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Ohhhhhh....


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Pau11y said:


> Been in comm with Fox service cent. They tell me the tunes changed on Oct of 14.
> I'm thinking if you're okay with the way your fork is performing, why take the $$ hit to get it retuned? I was quoted it'll cost about $70. $25 shipping there and prob the same back, two weeks of down time at a min, and you're over a Benjamin for no perceptible gain in performance? What's the thinking?


Sent my 36 in for the TSB. Fox sent me a prepaid label. Shouldn't cost me a thing. All under warranty and they are covering the shipping. I'm out of town all next week so the timing is perfect.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

LCW said:


> Sent my 36 in for the TSB. Fox sent me a prepaid label. Shouldn't cost me a thing. All under warranty and they are covering the shipping. I'm out of town all next week so the timing is perfect.


What is the TSB?

Do you have a case number I can reference when I go and question Fox?


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

^think it stands for technical service bulletin, at least that's how the call for cars, it should be a doc where fox describes the issue and the fix but the link is broken on their website


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

TSB link on fox site was busted when I checked last week.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Rick Draper said:


> It will still sell the 20mm version. The one in the picture above is the replacement for the fork that sat one step below the RC2'd 36, it used to have a FIT RLC damper in it, now it has a FIT 4 damper.


Here is the info:
FOX's New Suspension - Sea Otter 2015 - Pinkbike


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## 8 1/2 (Apr 24, 2011)

Yody said:


> I did hear that they built too much compression into the forks and everyone was saying they had to run both compressions close to open. So they likely pushed the tuning curve lower, so you can run more clicks to be able to tune both directions.


This one explains all that I've been wondering since last August.. I've been dealing with the harshness issue for months, but now I'm almost getting used to it.

I just got my fork serviced by our local Fox service center and they told a pretty similar story as Yody (the guys just got back from Fox's training camp and yes of course just a few days after my fork had been serviced..) I'll send the fork in later for the new tune, in my case it could be useful


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## future9398 (Dec 12, 2012)

Need help here regarding 26" fox36 offset , can't find any detail on fox website , sent couples of email to them but no reply .....


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## Daxdagr8t (Jul 9, 2014)

Anyone know where to get the tools for the service kit like they have in youtube?like the stuff the screw to the lowers to get it loose and the cyclinder to seat the seals. I can get the oil and seals through my lbs. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

future9398 said:


> Need help here regarding 26" fox36 offset , can't find any detail on fox website , sent couples of email to them but no reply .....


37mm... see here: 2015 36mm User Specification Drawings | Bike Help Center | FOX


----------



## future9398 (Dec 12, 2012)

Thanks ..!


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## Zatoichi (Oct 25, 2014)

Daxdagr8t said:


> Anyone know where to get the tools for the service kit like they have in youtube?like the stuff the screw to the lowers to get it loose and the cyclinder to seat the seals. I can get the oil and seals through my lbs.


Fox Forx Damper Removal Tool | Fox Racing Shox

Fox Lower Leg Seal Driver Tool | Fox Racing Shox


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I've got a new 36 at 150mm for my Tallboy LTc. I've got about 10 good rides on it. Yesterday I noticed while on a long climb a noticeable 'clunk' as the front of the bike unweighted. It felt like the top-out was undamped for that last 15mm or so. I hadn't noticed this on other rides. 

Anything I should be looking at?


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

reamer41 said:


> I've got a new 36 at 150mm for my Tallboy LTc. I've got about 10 good rides on it. Yesterday I noticed while on a long climb a noticeable 'clunk' as the front of the bike unweighted. It felt like the top-out was undamped for that last 15mm or so. I hadn't noticed this on other rides.
> 
> Anything I should be looking at?


Did you adjust air pressure recently...added more (+) spring air? If so, equalize your (-) air chamber.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Also re-torque the dropout bolts, the axle likes to knock until it settles in since they're really low torque.


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

Haven't add ot adjusted air lately. But I did have the front wheel off not long ago. I'll re check/torque the axle and pinch bolts...

Thanks.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

FWIW, I find I have to snug up my axle a bit more than 20 in lbs or there's a bit of play and some knocking if I push back and forth on the wheel laterally. This is with the pinch bolts tightened BTW.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

I have the first gen (before the new valving) 36 rc2 and it knocks also. I sent it in thinking it was bushings because if you shoved your finger between the arch and the kashima stanchion, held the front brake, and lightly rocked the bike back and forth you could feel looseness and play. Figured that was the noise I was hearing. 

They said they rebuilt the whole fork, including bushings, and sent it back to me. 

Still makes the same rattle.

I can't tell if its on top out or not, but it definetly sounds like a rattle/knock coming from inside the fork on certain types of hits. A good trusted friend of mine said his Air 40 does the same thing and that it is the negative spring or something along those lines knocking around and that most fox forks do that. I'm not sure if that is true or not. I'll be honest the noise drives me a bit crazy and makes the bike feel rickity. performance wise its perfect though, but its just distracting. And to be clear, this is not a whoosing noise that most air suspension makes, this is a knock/rattle from inside the fork.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Pau11y said:


> Did you adjust air pressure recently...added more (+) spring air? If so, equalize your (-) air chamber.


Foxs website;

"FLOAT air spring automatically equalizes the positive and negative chambers to allow easier movement of fork in initial part of travel, regardless of air pressure"

says it automatically equalizes


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Dimple seems to equalize it only @ top 5mm of travel.. and you have to pump the bars.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

The knock in mine was the pinch bolts needing 1/8 turn on rides. 


And it's every time I put the wheel back on.. just hold the allen key the long way and use one finger so you don't over tighten.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

all my bolts are correctly torqued, for sure, %100


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

This fork has more twist compared to the old version.. When you let the air out of the spring does it drop all the way to bottom out?


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

huh, more twist?


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

Deerhill said:


> This fork has more twist compared to the old version.. When you let the air out of the spring does it drop all the way to bottom out?


Is this relating to my top-out clunk post or loose axles issues?
What do you mean by more twist? And how is it relevant?

I've not tried letting all the air out, in any case. What would the purpose of doing this be?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Yody said:


> I can't tell if its on top out or not, but it definetly sounds like a rattle/knock coming from inside the fork on certain types of hits. A good trusted friend of mine said his Air 40 does the same thing and that it is the negative spring or something along those lines knocking around and that most fox forks do that. I'm not sure if that is true or not. I'll be honest the noise drives me a bit crazy and makes the bike feel rickity. performance wise its perfect though, but its just distracting. And to be clear, this is not a whoosing noise that most air suspension makes, this is a knock/rattle from inside the fork.


The 2014/15 40 and the current 36 have nothing in common on the airspring side. The 40 uses a coil negative spring, like all fox float Fox forks of old, the 36 uses a self equalising negative air spring.


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## cmrocks (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi,

I'm trying to get a 2015 Fox 36 Float in 170 mm somewhere in Canada. Apparently they are not available until mid-May. The big online sites like Jenson won't ship Fox products to Canada.

Does anyone know where I could find this fork for sale in Canada?

Can the 160 mm version be extended?


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

cmrocks said:


> Hi,
> 
> I'm trying to get a 2015 Fox 36 Float in 170 mm somewhere in Canada. Apparently they are not available until mid-May. The big online sites like Jenson won't ship Fox products to Canada.
> 
> ...


Buy a 180. It can be reduced to 130


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

cmrocks said:


> Can the 160 mm version be extended?


Nope it cannot.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Rick Draper said:


> The 2014/15 40 and the current 36 have nothing in common on the airspring side. The 40 uses a coil negative spring, like all fox float Fox forks of old, the 36 uses a self equalising negative air spring.


That's what I thought


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

I wonder if the lowers of an actual Fox 36 could be replaced by the QR15 lowers of the new 2016 Fox 36 FIT4 fork. That would be nice!


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

reamer41 said:


> Is this relating to my top-out clunk post or loose axles issues?What do you mean by more twist? And how is it relevant?I've not tried letting all the air out, in any case. What would the purpose of doing this be?


Trap the wheel w/ your legs and turn the bars couple times, you'll see the fork twist as each side moves (deflection might be more accurate word). This can cause the sound. Possible air could pass to the neg spring when riding.

When you deflate the spring and the bike doesn't drop down, you could have the neg side over pressurized. That can cause a noise too


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## mrazz001 (Dec 23, 2009)

Deerhill said:


> When you deflate the spring and the bike doesn't drop down, you could have the neg side over pressurized. That can cause a noise too


Just to clarify; is the fork supposed to suck down its travel when you release the air (like a vacuum)? Or is it supposed to stay fully extended when you release all the air. Mine's done both and I'm not sure which is correct (I thought the latter).


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

mrazz001 said:


> Just to clarify; is the fork supposed to suck down its travel when you release the air (like a vacuum)? Or is it supposed to stay fully extended when you release all the air. Mine's done both and I'm not sure which is correct (I thought the latter).


It will go down as the air will escape the positive chamber faster than the negative chamber.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Been deflating the thing after rides, only have to deal with this whole equalizing + & - air spring bs @ half as much this way. More riding, less air spring :thumbsup:


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

I think you guys are tripping thinking you need to do anything (could be wrong tho?) Fox says its self equalizing, yet you guys are doing some goofy voodoo pressure thing every ride?


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Huh? Just push the air valve


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## Bradical (Feb 18, 2013)

cmrocks said:


> Hi,
> 
> I'm trying to get a 2015 Fox 36 Float in 170 mm somewhere in Canada. Apparently they are not available until mid-May. The big online sites like Jenson won't ship Fox products to Canada.
> 
> ...


Try SuspensionWerx in N. Van.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

*2015 Fox 36 not wonderful*

I have tried this fork 3 different times on two hour rides 1st on an Ibis HD3, Santa Cruz Bronson and just to be sure I wasn't missing something back onto the Ibis HD3. It is just not a great fork. I would spend my money on a Pike or even a TALAS. I ride the 2014 Fox Talas 34 and it is a much better fork for the way I ride. Before anyone pulls the trigger please take this fork for a test ride. Fox needs to work on this fork some more.


Bradical said:


> Try SuspensionWerx in N. Van.


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

winsail said:


> I have tried this fork 3 different times on two hour rides 1st on an Ibis HD3, Santa Cruz Bronson and just to be sure I wasn't missing something back onto the Ibis HD3. It is just not a great fork. I would spend my money on a Pike or even a TALAS. I ride the 2014 Fox Talas 34 and it is a much better fork for the way I ride. Before anyone pulls the trigger please take this fork for a test ride. Fox needs to work on this fork some more.


What specifically did you not like, what is your riding style and where are you riding? Saying you don't like the fork without context is like saying you don't like onions. Some people do and some don't.

Personally I think it far outshines the Pike. Had both at the same time and the Pike is better at lower speeds or smoother trails, but that supple mid stroke feeling is actually wallow at higher speeds on rough trails. There is also noticeably more flex in the Pike when ridden back to back. I ride on a lot of high speed rocky trails so take that into consideration.


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## Daxdagr8t (Jul 9, 2014)

Salespunk said:


> What specifically did you not like, what is your riding style and where are you riding? Saying you don't like the fork without context is like saying you don't like onions. Some people do and some don't.
> 
> Personally I think it far outshines the Pike. Had both at the same time and the Pike is better at lower speeds or smoother trails, but that supple mid stroke feeling is actually wallow at higher speeds on rough trails. There is also noticeably more flex in the Pike when ridden back to back. I ride on a lot of high speed rocky trails so take that into consideration.


+1 on this one. From xc to dh on my mach 6 its great. Talas is only better when climbing but the float has the better damping.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Salespunk said:


> Personally I think it far outshines the Pike. Had both at the same time...


Yup, I agreed. 
Except, when I run the 36 w/ similar setup to the Pike (more tokens and slightly lower air pressure and sag in the 25% range), the 36's low speed suppleness is WAY better than the Pike.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

*Still Not great for me*

Not really into getting into a pissing match about the Fox 36. It climbs very poorly which is at least half of the ride for me. On descents it shines but not noticeably better than either the Pike or the Talas. I personally don't have a use for a fork that can't climb well. I want a fork that does everything well and the Fox 36 for me is only useful for half the ride. I think FOX can do better. I'm not a racer, have been riding regularly since 1986 and ride 4-5 days a week on many different trails in Northern CA. I never was a downhiller but can see how this fork could work for someone who walks up, puts on his pads and full face helmet then flies down. I'm really saying don't buy this fork based on hype. Try it first because it's not for everyone.


Salespunk said:


> What specifically did you not like, what is your riding style and where are you riding? Saying you don't like the fork without context is like saying you don't like onions. Some people do and some don't.
> 
> Personally I think it far outshines the Pike. Had both at the same time and the Pike is better at lower speeds or smoother trails, but that supple mid stroke feeling is actually wallow at higher speeds on rough trails. There is also noticeably more flex in the Pike when ridden back to back. I ride on a lot of high speed rocky trails so take that into consideration.


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## 11053 (Sep 19, 2009)

winsail said:


> Not really into getting into a pissing match about the Fox 36. It climbs very poorly which is at least half of the ride for me.


Interesting.
Care to provide more info?
Sounds like a set up/preference issue.


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

My 2015 36 Talas is worth every penny - Up / Down and all around - Lots of adjustment for any occasion.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

Pretty simple really. If you put enough air pressure in the fork to make it not bob madly on the uphill it rides extremely rough on the downhill. I suppose I could get out my shock pump before every ride up, pump it up and release air for the downhill. Should I have to do that for a fork in 2015? My preference would be to have some sort of soft lock-out for the uphill and release it for the downhill. Currently that's not an option on this fork which relegates it to the gravity only category. I spent quite a bit of time trying many different set-ups but this fork wouldn't perform like I want it to. I also had the wrench for both Santa Cruz and Ibis try to set it up correctly. I'm pretty sure they know what they're doing.


11053 said:


> Interesting.
> Care to provide more info?
> Sounds like a set up/preference issue.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

winsail said:


> Not really into getting into a pissing match about the Fox 36. It climbs very poorly which is at least half of the ride for me. On descents it shines but not noticeably better than either the Pike or the Talas. I personally don't have a use for a fork that can't climb well. I want a fork that does everything well and the Fox 36 for me is only useful for half the ride. I think FOX can do better. I'm not a racer, have been riding regularly since 1986 and ride 4-5 days a week on many different trails in Northern CA. I never was a downhiller but can see how this fork could work for someone who walks up, puts on his pads and full face helmet then flies down. I'm really saying don't buy this fork based on hype. Try it first because it's not for everyone.


It climbs great and feels closer to an xc fork this year imho. An air sprung fork is not ideal for being consistent, the air spring leaks air into the lowers where the negative spring can not equalize pressure (this creates too much rebound force which overpowers the damper). It will feel like compression is too firm on the downs, and rebound too fast at the same time.


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## 11053 (Sep 19, 2009)

winsail said:


> Pretty simple really. If you put enough air pressure in the fork to make it not bob madly on the uphill it rides extremely rough on the downhill. I suppose I could get out my shock pump before every ride up, pump it up and release air for the downhill. Should I have to do that for a fork in 2015? My preference would be to have some sort of soft lock-out for the uphill and release it for the downhill. Currently that's not an option on this fork which relegates it to the gravity only category. I spent quite a bit of time trying many different set-ups but this fork wouldn't perform like I want it to. I also had the wrench for both Santa Cruz and Ibis try to set it up correctly. I'm pretty sure they know what they're doing.


Opposite of my experience.
Best "climbing" long travel fork I've had.
170 36 on a Nomad 3.
Absolutely no bob for seated pedaling and climbing.
I can stand up and climb/mash no problem.
Not running excessive air pressure or goofy compression adjustments either.
There's a ton of adjustments on that fork.
From my experience air pressure isn't necessarily the key to eliminating bob or body position/power input suspension movements.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

N


winsail said:


> Pretty simple really. If you put enough air pressure in the fork to make it not bob madly on the uphill it rides extremely rough on the downhill. I suppose I could get out my shock pump before every ride up, pump it up and release air for the downhill. Should I have to do that for a fork in 2015? My preference would be to have some sort of soft lock-out for the uphill and release it for the downhill. Currently that's not an option on this fork which relegates it to the gravity only category. I spent quite a bit of time trying many different set-ups but this fork wouldn't perform like I want it to. I also had the wrench for both Santa Cruz and Ibis try to set it up correctly. I'm pretty sure they know what they're doing.


Then the new 2016 FIT 4 equipped fox 36 is the fork for people like you. You clearly want a threshold and don't value the maximum adjustability the Rc2 equipped 36 gives you.


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## Mrwhlr (Sep 16, 2006)

Jeebus....this air spring appears to be a real pain in the d1ck....anyone retrofit a coil into this fvcker?


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## material guy (Mar 14, 2011)

winsail said:


> Pretty simple really. If you put enough air pressure in the fork to make it not bob madly on the uphill it rides extremely rough on the downhill. I suppose I could get out my shock pump before every ride up, pump it up and release air for the downhill. Should I have to do that for a fork in 2015? My preference would be to have some sort of soft lock-out for the uphill and release it for the downhill. Currently that's not an option on this fork which relegates it to the gravity only category. I spent quite a bit of time trying many different set-ups but this fork wouldn't perform like I want it to. I also had the wrench for both Santa Cruz and Ibis try to set it up correctly. I'm pretty sure they know what they're doing.


Have you just tried to crank up the low speed compression for the up and backing it off for the down?
Same as using a platform.


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## BuickGN (Aug 25, 2008)

I'm going on vacation in a little over a month and I'm actually disappointed that I have to save money for the trip and wait on the fork for another 2+ months. I almost want this fork more than I want my vacation. I could still take a couple weeks off of work and ride the whole time. Maybe that's a testament to how bad my 34 EVO is. One thing is for sure, I need to get a credit card so I can start living beyond my means lol. 

I looked at Avalanche but they're $500 and I'm still stuck with the outrageously high friction of the Talas 34 and I can get a new 36 for not that much more.


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## A-X (Jun 4, 2014)

Agree with others that it sounds like a set up issue. I run a 170mm 36 on my Nomad and find it displays none of the negative characteristics mentioned especially when climbing. I use my Nomad for a work commute once a week which is 18miles each way and around 7 of those is road including a 10% climb and the fork is not an issue.

Riding Pikes on my other bikes is a world of difference. Something that wasn't initially evident going from Pike to 36, but then going back the other way the difference between these two is far more obvious with the superiority of the 36 showing through.

Don't get me wrong, the Pike is still an excellent trail fork in the 140mm - 150mm range, but when the speeds and hits increase 36 is the way forwards.


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

Service question...

In my previous Fox forks, I separated the shafts from the lowers by loosening the bolts and then tapping on a deep well socket (as to not hit the rebound shaft) to separate the two. Is this still a safe practice?


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## 11053 (Sep 19, 2009)

richde said:


> Service question...
> 
> In my previous Fox forks, I separated the shafts from the lowers by loosening the bolts and then tapping on a deep well socket (as to not hit the rebound shaft) to separate the two. Is this still a safe practice?


Yes


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I just rode the Whiskey Off-Road 30 miler with my Fox 36. 4000' of climbing and any issues regarding the climb were mine, not the fork's. I replaced the stock Fox 34 140mm with the 36 at 150mm. Which might have hurt climbing some -- but I haven't found it to be the case. There are a handful of steep tech climbs on the Whiskey.

I posted earlier regarding a noticeable top-out clunk when unweighting the front on long climbs... Only happens after long climbs. After cycling the fork (in normal riding) that issue goes away until well into the next long climb. I'm wondering if my lowers get pressurized. Maybe I'll give Fox a call.


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## 2xTurner (Aug 24, 2011)

reamer41 said:


> I just rode the Whiskey Off-Road 30 miler with my Fox 36. 4000' of climbing and any issues regarding the climb were mine, not the fork's. I replaced the stock Fox 34 140mm with the 36 at 150mm. Which might have hurt climbing some -- but I haven't found it to be the case. There are a handful of steep tech climbs on the Whiskey.
> 
> I posted earlier regarding a noticeable top-out clunk when unweighting the front on long climbs... Only happens after long climbs. After cycling the fork (in normal riding) that issue goes away until well into the next long climb. I'm wondering if my lowers get pressurized. Maybe I'll give Fox a call.


I had a similar noise (could feel it too), see post 488 on p.20 It was constant though, I could duplicate it all the time, so may not be same issue as yours. I burped the lowers (a good psst came out both sides). Has not done it again (10+ rides) and the fork feels much better now. Worth a try if you haven't already.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

winsail said:


> Pretty simple really. If you put enough air pressure in the fork to make it not bob madly on the uphill it rides extremely rough on the downhill. I suppose I could get out my shock pump before every ride up, pump it up and release air for the downhill. Should I have to do that for a fork in 2015? My preference would be to have some sort of soft lock-out for the uphill and release it for the downhill. Currently that's not an option on this fork which relegates it to the gravity only category. I spent quite a bit of time trying many different set-ups but this fork wouldn't perform like I want it to. I also had the wrench for both Santa Cruz and Ibis try to set it up correctly. I'm pretty sure they know what they're doing.


I'm not a guy that would defend any part/ brand/ model just because I have one, I'm really not. Also I'll add that you have way more MTB experience than me.

But I'm just informing you that adjusting your air pressure/ sag is definitely not the way to control suspension bob. The air spring is a pogo stick, it's meant to set ride height, not control suspension speed or movement. You need either more low speed compression, more low speed rebound, or more of both.

That said the Fox 36 an Enduro fork not a XC fork so it's going to be a lot more active and ultimately less efficient than a typically firm XC fork (which the Pike you compared against is not).

Where I live, I realize that the climbs we do have are not really smooth enough for a long enough period of time to take advantage of a climb switch. So that difference might be why your tastes are different. The photos I see of CA, the trails all look smooth comparatively and of course with much longer grades to climb than here.

I've read a lot of weird things about MTB suspension set up in my 2 years of riding MTBs. Things that didn't jive with my years of setting up my well-dialed Ohlins on my MX bikes and initially led me to think that everyone must want their MTBs to feel like crap for maybe pedaling efficiency or something. Essentially pogo sticks with little damping. Ultimately I'e decided MTBers are similiar to the average MXer and frankly have no clue what good suspension action should feel like. Plus the adjustment knobs are so easy to adjust that it makes it easy to get way off course.

There is some good info here but be careful what you follow. I've decided to build around what I know so I started setting up my AM suspension based around the nonvariable of 30% sag. Which is similiar to what all motorcycles require (street or dirt). I also noticed that almost without fail MBA starts with that number as well and I figured that's as good of a source as any. At least they are consistent about it, I can't even get the Fox or SC reps to recommend me the same sag settings from rep to rep, day to day! Then I started turning knobs just a little bit at a time and I think I'm now pretty far off what the typical recommended settings that I read about are for my Fox 36 as well as my CC Inline. But to me it feels pretty close. Someday I guess I'll put my neck on the line and post my settings once I feel that they are as good as I can reasonably make them over many different trails.

~ take care


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

It seems I'm a little bit behind the curve by a week or so. At Sea Otter the new FOX 36 FIT 4 seems to have the features I desire. Even though I live just a short 45 minute drive away I didn't go to Sea Otter this year. I can only read about it and trust it's likely to fill that need I have for a soft lock out for climbing. It also seems to be more suited for my riding with a 15mm QR and longest travel at 160mm Thanks FOX


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## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

winsail said:


> It seems I'm a little bit behind the curve by a week or so. At Sea Otter the new FOX 36 FIT 4 seems to have the features I desire. Even though I live just a short 45 minute drive away I didn't go to Sea Otter this year. I can only read about it and trust it's likely to fill that need I have for a soft lock out for climbing. It also seems to be more suited for my riding with a 15mm QR and longest travel at 160mm Thanks FOX


Just and FYI and you probably already know this, but if you just crank the low speed compression knob on the 36 it is an effective a lockout as the Pike has. Just takes an extra 10 seconds to do and you have to get back to your original settings. Not as elegant as a one click lockout, but just as effective.


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

Tempted to upgarde to the latest F36 and or FIT4 F34. I'm not interested unless I can service it myself.This generation F36 doesn't appear to be on the Fox service site.Is there any DIY service info for this generation F36 or have they decided they are missing out on too much 2ndary income and they have to be sent back to Fox for service. I believe they may use different cartridge oil as well?


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

See this on FOX website. FORK- 2015-2016 36mm Dust Wiper and Bath Oil Service | Bike Help Center | FOX
It has a video on servicing the Fox 36 up to 2016.


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

Thanks. But nothing for oil change of the cartridge?.Which seems to confirm my suspicions.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

gvs_nz said:


> Thanks. But nothing for oil change of the cartridge?.Which seems to confirm my suspicions.


Here is the info on the cartridge. The RC2 itself has not changed for a few years now:

FIT RC2 Cartridge Rebuild | Bike Help Center | FOX


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

But still no info on oils. 
There was a snippet in one of the threads[ maybe this one] that they were using a completely different, much lighter, cartridge fluid?
Each time they change either air or damping cartridge technology they usually update the service page. Not so with the latest F36.
Am I just chasing shadows or has someone actually serviced their own using prev generation oil spec?


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## tacubaya (Jan 27, 2006)

It uses a much less viscous fluid, Fox R3 oil PN: 025-06-006 (250 ml) or 025-06-007 (1 liter).


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

Thanks. 
These guys list it as Shell LGF 5W. Aerospace Shock landing fluid.

FOX 803-11-006 - Oil: Suspension Fluid [1.00 Quart] High VI R2 Race oil, Light, Powersports (Shell LGF 5W)[1-00-quart]-high-vi-r2-race-oil-light-powersports-shell-lgf-5w-


----------



## Colin+M (Feb 15, 2009)

BuickGN said:


> I'm going on vacation in a little over a month and I'm actually disappointed that I have to save money for the trip and wait on the fork for another 2+ months. I almost want this fork more than I want my vacation. I could still take a couple weeks off of work and ride the whole time. Maybe that's a testament to how bad my 34 EVO is. One thing is for sure, I need to get a credit card so I can start living beyond my means lol.
> 
> I looked at Avalanche but they're $500 and I'm still stuck with the outrageously high friction of the Talas 34 and I can get a new 36 for not that much more.


Speaking of Avalanche...

I just got my 2015 Fox 36 back from Craig last week.


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Colin+M said:


> Speaking of Avalanche...
> 
> I just got my 2015 Fox 36 back from Craig last week.


Nice bro! How much and how does it feel compaired to the stock setup? Also, was your 15 fork an early production one or newer with the new valving tune? Mine is an early one but I just got it back from Fox. They put the new valve tune on it. I only have 1 ride on the new tune, but it feels good so far. The Avalanche is an open bath damper right? Is the weight different?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

tacubaya said:


> It uses a much less viscous fluid, PN: 803-11-006


Any idea of a alternative? No stock of it in the UK just yet and maybe none until late this month or early next.

From the bottles I have seen the cSt is [email protected] deg and [email protected] deg.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Rick Draper said:


> The earlier valving combination was the following from the compression bulkhead:
> 16.6mm od x 7mm id x 0.10mm
> 16.6mm od x 7mm id x 0.15mm
> 16.6mm od x 7mm id x 0.15mm
> ...


Got my 36 back from Fox today from a re-valve. From the invoice, here's what went in it:

Rebound
.350" x .252" x .020" (1)
8.0 x 6.4 x 0.152mm (2)
(039-00-120) Spring, Rebound, Check 09 36_40 (1)
(210-10-105) Piston, Rebound, Kidney 35/65 Flow (2)

Compression
14.5 x 7 x 0.10mm (1)
13.5 x 7 x 0.10mm (1)
9.6 x 7 x 0.25mm (2)

I can't say what was in it before (could have been same as what Rick had above) - it was an early build from June of last year.

I haven't ridden it yet, so can't give feedback just yet. Hopefully I'll put on some miles this weekend and see how it feels.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Rode the revised fork today... Much MUCH better! Even at 6 clicks from open LSC, and 3 clicks from open HSC, it felt plusher - especially small bumps and chatter than the old valving wide open. Plush but not mushy or spongy - well controlled and excellent mid stroke support dropping off rocks and small ledges. What I rode today was more slow technical riding than balls out speed, and this is where the old valving seemed to be lacking.

Unless someone is a big heavy dude, or likes their settings super stiff (like Gwin lol)... the revised valving on the 2015 36 is worthwhile IMO. Fox did it under warranty at no charge to me (they even covered shipping to them). Turnaround was 1 week exactly. 

Can't wait to ride it some more some of my other riding areas, including the bike park. I'll have to re-develop my settings, but that's part of the fun.


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## nybike1971 (Oct 6, 2005)

LCW said:


> Rode the revised fork today... Much MUCH better! Even at 6 clicks from open LSC, and 3 clicks from open HSC, it felt plusher - especially small bumps and chatter than the old valving wide open. Plush but not mushy or spongy - well controlled and excellent mid stroke support dropping off rocks and small ledges. What I rode today was more slow technical riding than balls out speed, and this is where the old valving seemed to be lacking.
> 
> Unless someone is a big heavy dude, or likes their settings super stiff (like Gwin lol)... the revised valving on the 2015 36 is worthwhile IMO. Fox did it under warranty at no charge to me (they even covered shipping to them). Turnaround was 1 week exactly.
> 
> Can't wait to ride it some more some of my other riding areas, including the bike park. I'll have to re-develop my settings, but that's part of the fun.


Apologies if this was discussed already but how did you know which tune you had in your fork? Are there any guidelines based on serial number?


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Honestly I'm not really sure. I can only assume it was similar to what Rick Draper had posted but I can't even say that for sure.

4-digit code on mine was CR53, but all that comes up from the Fox website is this:

_2015, 36, K, FLOAT, 26in, F-S, 160, RC2, FIT, Blk, Rainbow Logo, 15mm, 1.5 T, 37mm Rake, AM_

Typing in my serial number comes up with nothing.


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## Grizzy (Sep 12, 2009)

Wonder if fox would warranty it the other way - make it nice and stiff?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Grizzy said:


> Wonder if fox would warranty it the other way - make it nice and stiff?


Its not stiff, its very very harsh and forces almost everything through the low speed needle.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

With the Fox 36 front axle set up, what do you guys carry to deal with a front flat?

Thanks


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

I have the specialized water bottle cage with swat tool. Its awesome


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## PiousInquisitor (Oct 19, 2014)

Suns_PSD said:


> With the Fox 36 front axle set up, what do you guys carry to deal with a front flat?
> 
> Thanks


I have a multitool. You don't carry one?


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

PiousInquisitor said:


> I have a multitool. You don't carry one?


Who doesn't carry a multi-tool?
Really. Anything with a 5mm Allen wrench.

If I'm changing a flat I've already got my tools out for the tire lever and tube, so the Allen wrench is practically already out.


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## PiousInquisitor (Oct 19, 2014)

reamer41 said:


> Who doesn't carry a multi-tool?
> Really. Anything with a 5mm Allen wrench.
> 
> If I'm changing a flat I've already got my tools out for the tire lever and tube, so the Allen wrench is practically already out.


Sun must not since he is asking what we do when we have a flat.


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## Grizzy (Sep 12, 2009)

You could run those solid tubes...


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

Multi Tool - for any frt wheel action.
On another note - I like the security of the frt wheel when using a bike lock through the wheel. Makes me feel like a thief will move on to a easier heist.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

Yody said:


> I think you guys are tripping thinking you need to do anything (could be wrong tho?) Fox says its self equalizing, yet you guys are doing some goofy voodoo pressure thing every ride?


I've not been able to get the performance I expected after much buggering around so tried the zip tie trick. The difference was amazing, what I would've expected from the go get. After a couple of rides, it is getting harsh again and not using all the travel. Very frustrating after briefly experiencing what it can perform like. Is this a sign that it's not self equalising? Is there a fix? Thanks


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Snozz said:


> I've not been able to get the performance I expected after much buggering around so tried the zip tie trick. The difference was amazing, what I would've expected from the go get. After a couple of rides, it is getting harsh again and not using all the travel. Very frustrating after briefly experiencing what it can perform like. Is this a sign that it's not self equalising? Is there a fix? Thanks


That's the exact same thing that happened to mine. I sent in to Fox and explained it to the Tech and told him what it was doing. He tried the zip tie thing after putting it in the dyno and he got the same results. Long story short, he put in the most recent valve tune since mine was an early model 15 and he also replaced all of the O rings and seals. Seems good now, but I only have a few rides on it so still too early to tell. Also they sent it back with the high speed compression all the way open and I'm only running about 50psi. They had about 55psi in it, but I wasn't using full travel like I use to on my 2014 36 Float. The 15 super plush in the high speed chatter unlike my old fork though, which was harsh in the high speed chatter. It's closer to using full travel now, but I think I need to drop about 5 more PSI.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

Shredman69 said:


> That's the exact same thing that happened to mine. I sent in to Fox and explained it to the Tech and told him what it was doing. He tried the zip tie thing after putting it in the dyno and he got the same results. Long story short, he put in the most recent valve tune since mine was an early model 15 and he also replaced all of the O rings and seals. Seems good now, but I only have a few rides on it so still too early to tell. Also they sent it back with the high speed compression all the way open and I'm only running about 50psi. They had about 55psi in it, but I wasn't using full travel like I use to on my 2014 36 Float. The 15 super plush in the high speed chatter unlike my old fork though, which was harsh in the high speed chatter. It's closer to using full travel now, but I think I need to drop about 5 more PSI.


Is the harshness issue due to the old valving? I saw the technical bulletin but it wasn't a recall I thought. Also not sure if I have the old valving but I did buy it early in the year. What do you suggest I say to the Fox reps to get it fixed under warranty? Thanks


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Snozz said:


> Is the harshness issue due to the old valving? I saw the technical bulletin but it wasn't a recall I thought. Also not sure if I have the old valving but I did buy it early in the year. What do you suggest I say to the Fox reps to get it fixed under warranty? Thanks


U have to go on the website and fill out an online form. I explained the problem on the form and they gave me an RA number and instructions to send it in. Once I did that, the tech called me and I explained the problem in detail. There was no issue with it being covered under warranty because it was less than a year old.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

Shredman69 said:


> U have to go on the website and fill out an online form. I explained the problem on the form and they gave me an RA number and instructions to send it in. Once I did that, the tech called me and I explained the problem in detail. There was no issue with it being covered under warranty because it was less than a year old.


Cheers thanks


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Snozz said:


> Cheers thanks


No prob bro. Good luck.:thumbsup:


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## Grizzy (Sep 12, 2009)

Rick Draper said:


> Its not stiff, its very very harsh and forces almost everything through the low speed needle.


Have to disagree. Got the 5010 setup and i was bummed to see how little LSC was/is available. I clearly had the original tune on the Bronson setup and loved it. I also realize it's not usual to have so much travel and run it that stiff. Lots of BMX (30yrs& pro class for 6), plus 6' &185 (xc fit maybe 175) so try not to assume I'm full of it or don't know what I'm talking about 

Does anyone happen to know if both HSC and LSC were "lightened" up on the revised 36 damper? Just would be a helpful starting point as I know my settings on the old tune and 160 travel (1 blue spacer, LSC @2clicks from closed, HSC @1 click from open, 15-30% sag depending on steepness/speed).

Still think it's an awesome fork though.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Grizzy said:


> Have to disagree. Got the 5010 setup and i was bummed to see how little LSC was/is available. I clearly had the original tune on the Bronson setup and loved it. I also realize it's not usual to have so much travel and run it that stiff. Lots of BMX (30yrs& pro class for 6), plus 6' &185 (xc fit maybe 175) so try not to assume I'm full of it or don't know what I'm talking about
> 
> Does anyone happen to know if both HSC and LSC were "lightened" up on the revised 36 damper? Just would be a helpful starting point as I know my settings on the old tune and 160 travel (1 blue spacer, LSC @2clicks from closed, HSC @1 click from open, 15-30% sag depending on steepness/speed).
> 
> Still think it's an awesome fork though.


I know exactly how it was altered and the LSC needle stays exactly the same.


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## mrazz001 (Dec 23, 2009)

Are the majority of you running the stock blue volume spacer in your fork? I have the new tune and am still using most of the travel--not full on pretty big hits. My settings are:

65 PSI
4 clicks of HSC from full open
6 clicks of LSC from full closed
9 clicks of rebound from closed

I weigh 170 with gear.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

I'm running 2 blue spacers and about 68 psi. About 195 lbs.

Edit: it's a 160 RC2 26"


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## Grizzy (Sep 12, 2009)

This is good info, just tooling around doing some street riding and added air - up to 100psi! 

The new fork is 140 and I haven't got a wrench to check the spacer but guessing by the pressure I'd say there's no spacers in it. Maybe the old fork was the new tune...


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

mrazz001 said:


> Are the majority of you running the stock blue volume spacer in your fork? I have the new tune and am still using most of the travel--not full on pretty big hits. My settings are:
> 
> 65 PSI
> 4 clicks of HSC from full open
> ...


Not sure about the rest of the settings, but the spacer it comes with inside depends on which travel your running. Mine is a 180 and doesn't come with any spacers installed. The shorter travel, the more spacers it came with inside to take up some of the air volume so it won't blow through the travel so easily.


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## mrazz001 (Dec 23, 2009)

I have the 160mm 27.5. I spoke with a fox rep that mentioned a high percentage of riders running no spacers. I've left it in because I don't want to blow through travel. I'm running about 34-35mm of sag, so I don't want to drop my air pressure any more.


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

mrazz001 said:


> I have the 160mm 27.5. I spoke with a fox rep that mentioned a high percentage of riders running no spacers. I've left it in because I don't want to blow through travel. I'm running about 34-35mm of sag, so I don't want to drop my air pressure any more.


Maybe take out the spacer and raise the pressure a bit. Less sag and more linear that way.


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

*2015 Talas 36 160mm - 27.5 setup*

Good day. For whatever reason my Talas 160 seems to be riding less plush after 7-8 rides then it was from when it was new.

Experienced rider, 190lbs, on Trance SX, on north shore trails.
Current setup, 140 - 145psi, LSC 10-12 clicks from open, HSC 8-10 clicks from open, rebound to suit.

After reading some comments on setup, it looks like a substantial number of riders are running the LSC around 1/2 closed (12 or more clicks from open), while running the HSC closer to open (only 4-6 clicks from open).

Wouldn't that type of setup be more firm / harsh as the LSC would provide a firmer ride at least on the top half of the travel. Then, with the lower amount of HSC it would allow the fork to more easily run through the latter part of the travel?

My thinking was to run less LSC to allow for a more plush ride on the first half of the travel, but then run more HSC to then ramp up the second half of travel.

Not certain if I am way off on my thinking or something is wrong with the fork, but the last couple of rides have had me noticing the fork for all the wrong reasons.


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## The-Flow-Zone (Jan 2, 2015)

LUBE THE SEALS...... They come dry from FOX, doing this dramatically changes the way the fork feels. Use a small hand held grease gun with a tube of slick honey on it, gently pry off the seals edge with your "purging" zip tie and inject grease all the way round seal. Cycle fork, clean off excess, RIDE.
Do it, you'll see, MUCH BETTER.

If you live in slightly cooler climates, removing the 20wt Gold bath oil with a lighter fluid will help a lot as well, but a potential warranty issue. But a few good suspension re-builders do this anyways.

As for getting your wheel off, GET THIS FlowZone | Maverick Suspension and Service
Simple, easy, works, light, uses FOX Factory Axles (15 or 20mm)


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## BikeIntelligencer (Jun 5, 2009)

Having same issue with my 2016 34 140mm... will try FloZone's advice and report back...


rideitall said:


> Good day. For whatever reason my Talas 160 seems to be riding less plush after 7-8 rides then it was from when it was new.
> 
> Experienced rider, 190lbs, on Trance SX, on north shore trails.
> Current setup, 140 - 145psi, LSC 10-12 clicks from open, HSC 8-10 clicks from open, rebound to suit.
> ...


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## rondre3000 (May 29, 2009)

rideitall said:


> ...After reading some comments on setup, it looks like a substantial number of riders are running the LSC around 1/2 closed (12 or more clicks from open), while running the HSC closer to open (only 4-6 clicks from open).
> 
> Wouldn't that type of setup be more firm / harsh as the LSC would provide a firmer ride at least on the top half of the travel. Then, with the lower amount of HSC it would allow the fork to more easily run through the latter part of the travel?
> 
> ...


I think most of us are finding that the midstroke support of this fork doesn't warrant a lot of HSC. I'm running pretty much the settings you described above for this very reason.

-Ron.


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## PiousInquisitor (Oct 19, 2014)

rideitall said:


> Good day. For whatever reason my Talas 160 seems to be riding less plush after 7-8 rides then it was from when it was new.
> 
> Experienced rider, 190lbs, on Trance SX, on north shore trails.
> Current setup, 140 - 145psi, LSC 10-12 clicks from open, HSC 8-10 clicks from open, rebound to suit.
> ...


I weigh about the same as you. My settings are:









The reason I don't run the LSC low is because of break dive.


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## mrazz001 (Dec 23, 2009)

Are you still running the volume spacer? I'm thinking I should remove mine, up the PSI a few pounds and increase my LSC 2-4 clicks.


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

mrazz001 said:


> Are you still running the volume spacer? I'm thinking I should remove mine, up the PSI a few pounds and increase my LSC 2-4 clicks.


Thanks for the suggestions, definitely some tinkering to be done. I would suspect the volume spacer is in place. Haven't done anything other than air pressure and external adjustments. The biggest issue is that it did feel really nice for the first number of rides then the last couple it did feel harsh.

Out for a ride tonight, so I can't do too much pre-ride. I will try working with lowering the amount of HSC to see how that impacts the feel of the fork. With such a huge range of setup adjustments (and obviously rider preference in setup) I am hoping it is just the setup that is wrong.

Beyond that, this weekend I will replace the oil in the lowers to ensure I have the proper amount in While also taking a look at the wiper seals. They shouldn't be too dry as I do store my bike with a hook from the front wheel as recommended by many to help keep the seals well oiled. Will also try to completely release all air the fork then air it up again.

Might also try to do this will jumping up and down on one leg while wearing my lucky green shamrock socks. Sometimes you never know what will get a Fox fork feeling right.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

rideitall said:


> Thanks for the suggestions, definitely some tinkering to be done. I would suspect the volume spacer is in place. Haven't done anything other than air pressure and external adjustments. The biggest issue is that it did feel really nice for the first number of rides then the last couple it did feel harsh.
> 
> Out for a ride tonight, so I can't do too much pre-ride. I will try working with lowering the amount of HSC to see how that impacts the feel of the fork. With such a huge range of setup adjustments (and obviously rider preference in setup) I am hoping it is just the setup that is wrong.
> 
> ...


If you have a Talas you have no volume spacers installed and no option of adding them.


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

Rick Draper said:


> If you have a Talas you have no volume spacers installed and no option of adding them.


Well that makes it easy. I had no idea as to the setup of the Talas with regard to spacers.

Didn't adjust the air spring, but dropped the HSC to 5 from open and LSC to 8-9 from open. Maybe I can also drop the air pressure.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

You can't have your cake and eat it too by upping HSC for end stroke and lower LSC for plushness. Too much HSC makes square edge bumps harsh and will feel clunky transitioning from LSC that blows off too easy


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

The axle in my for creaks when I've torqued to spec. After a couple rides it will begin making noise (when putting some loads into it - it doesn't make any noise just sitting in the garage.). I'm using the 15mm and the adapters are as installed by Fox.

I've seen one reference to having to tighten more than Fox specs. 
Any other suggestions? I've assembled the axle in the fork dry -- no lube on threads of clamping area.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Yody said:


> You can't have your cake and eat it too by upping HSC for end stroke and lower LSC for plushness. Too much HSC makes square edge bumps harsh and will feel clunky transitioning from LSC that blows off too easy


What can be done though (at least in a Float) is add an extra vol spacer or two, and drop the pressure. Get more sag and compliance for small bumps - but good ramp up for large hits. I did this on mine with very good results. Using 2 blue spacers (stock was 1) and running only like 68psi. Gives about 25% sag. Riding weight 200 lbs. no bottoming on 4ft drops.


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

*36 Talas Tuning*

Well, I got in two rides in the past couple of days with the change to the compressing settings. The LSC is now at 8 or 9 clicks from open and the HSC is 5 clicks from open. No change to air pressure, set about 140 PSI for rider weight of 190lbs + gear.

Did a couple of small 2 -3 drops and noticed it felt much smoother on the landing. Not certain if I was me riding better or the settings. No bottom out on travel either, with about 3/4 to 1 inch remaining, that said the trails were more flow than harder / steeper technical.

It really has me wondering on how a fork like this is meant to be setup.

One the one hand Fox tuning guide advises to measure sag with HSC/LSC completely open then apply to a base amount of HSC/LSC and work from there. We have number of posts from riders who are running there setup with smaller amounts of compression damping and relying more on the air spring, that supports this method.

On the other hand a sizable number of riders are running a substantial amount or compression damping. Further support to this is a some comments attributed to SuspensionWerx, a very highly regarded suspension repair and tuning company here in Vancouver, which seem to run larger amounts of compression damping and lower air pressure. I think it was a review on the 36 where they were running 5 - 7 clicks from closed (or 17 - 18 clicks from open), but had dropped the air pressure by almost 10 psi on the 36 float (NSMB article)

Perhaps the large variations in tuning can be attributed to type of trails ridden, speed or rider style. We have all heard comments about how firm some of the pro riders run their suspension, but that does not mean that the average weekend warrior type rider should be running their suspension that way. Most riders don't jump or push the same speed anywhere near what a pro rider would.

Just some rambling thoughts on getting one's bike setup as best as possible.


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## mrazz001 (Dec 23, 2009)

I personally think you should set sag with the compression wide open so your weight is only supported by the air spring. Bike Radar did a pretty comprehensive piece of suspension set up that I recommend reading. Also, here's a neat video of some pro settings. It seems like what they say "stiff" they mean more air, not necessarily high compression settings. Pro bike Settings

Also, keep in mind that most of the initial settings you see from the fork reviewers were based on the old tune of the fork-- that's why you see so many of them running way less pressure. My fork was originally the harsher tune. I was running about 60 psi and still feeling harsh with almost an inch of travel never utilized. With the new tune I'm running 66-67 lbs and its way more compliant and fun.


----------



## Salespunk (Sep 15, 2005)

reamer41 said:


> The axle in my for creaks when I've torqued to spec. After a couple rides it will begin making noise (when putting some loads into it - it doesn't make any noise just sitting in the garage.). I'm using the 15mm and the adapters are as installed by Fox.
> 
> I've seen one reference to having to tighten more than Fox specs.
> Any other suggestions? I've assembled the axle in the fork dry -- no lube on threads of clamping area.


Grease it including the threads and the creaking should disappear.


----------



## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

mrazz001 said:


> I personally think you should set sag with the compression wide open so your weight is only supported by the air spring. Bike Radar did a pretty comprehensive piece of suspension set up that I recommend reading. Also, here's a neat video of some pro settings. It seems like what they say "stiff" they mean more air, not necessarily high compression settings. Pro bike Settings
> 
> Also, keep in mind that most of the initial settings you see from the fork reviewers were based on the old tune of the fork-- that's why you see so many of them running way less pressure. My fork was originally the harsher tune. I was running about 60 psi and still feeling harsh with almost an inch of travel never utilized. With the new tune I'm running 66-67 lbs and its way more compliant and fun.


Interesting and informative link. For the most part they are also running the HSC in the range of 17-19 clicks from closed or only 4 - 6 clicks from open. The LSC has more of a range with some running very little and others quite a bit.

Not certain as to whether or not my Talas is an older tune or newer, but the Talas air spring runs about twice the air pressure as the Float. So for me at 140 - 142 psi for 190lb rider works with no bottom out. Perhaps I can go a little lower and then work more with the LSC.

The other point is that I make sure turn my bike upside down for a few minutes right before the ride as I am getting ready. The hope is that this will ensure the seals are well lubricated and work better. I also store my bike with the front wheel up on a hook on the wall, this too should keep the seals in contact with the oil not running dry.

Still need to get some time to change out the oil (from new) and replace with nice clean oil and ensure the levels are correct.

Getting closer to where I want the fork to be, but not quite there.


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## mrazz001 (Dec 23, 2009)

You can call fox and give them the serial # on your fork. They will tell you quickly if it's the old or new tune. The old tune was definitely had too much compression via shims. I was getting lots of deflection with very open compression settings until I got the new tune. They changed the tune for me for free. Great customer service. You're getting into their busy season though.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

mrazz001 said:


> You can call fox and give them the serial # on your fork. They will tell you quickly if it's the old or new tune. The old tune was definitely had too much compression via shims. I was getting lots of deflection with very open compression settings until I got the new tune. They changed the tune for me for free. Great customer service. You're getting into their busy season though.


Where's the serial number located?


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Under the crown on end of steerer tube


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## A-X (Jun 4, 2014)

I run my 170mm 27.5 at 20% sag at 195lbs, 2 blue spacers and started off with the Fox baseline settings which over 4 months riding I haven't felt the need to change. 

Personally I think this fork prefers a little more air and less compression applied (like any suspension) and is not like Fox forks of old where the opposite seemed to be the case.

As mentioned already there are working set ups that contradict the above so goes to show there are a few approaches that seem to work.

Regarding shorter travel forks requiring more spacers I would say the opposite is true. Why reduce a smaller volume of air even more? If you think you are using too must travel add in more air, don't reduce the volume so you have even less to play with as you'll start to lose control of the spring rate and usable curve. Otherwise perhaps the fork is too short for the terrain being ridden on.


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## PiousInquisitor (Oct 19, 2014)

I hope that I can get some help from the experts in this forum. I need help from someone with a Talas but will gladly accept advice from anyone.

The problem I have is that my fork will not extend completely and there is an audible knock when the fork is compressed about 5mm. Compressing the fork that 5mm takes no force at all. The travel adjust doesn't work correctly either. It compresses only about half of what it should. This is probably due to the fork not extending completely.

The fork was fine till I took out the spacers that adjust how much the travel changes when the adjust knob is turned. I also decided to do the ziptie trick since I felt it wasn't as plush as the first few rides. So I released all of the air and slid a small ziptie between the seal and a bit of air came out. So when I charged the fork with air I noticed the issues written above.

Ive tried removing the air and pumping the fork up again but it doesn't change the ****-uaituation. I've read that when pumping up the fork you need to equalize the air cambers but all I can find on that is for the Float. What does equalizing the cambers feel like?

Also when I deflate the fork it sucks down and I cannot pull it back up without using a bunch of force.

Thanks in advance for the help!


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## tacubaya (Jan 27, 2006)

Are you talking about a 2015/2015 Talas 36?


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

PiousInquisitor said:


> Ive tried removing the air and pumping the fork up again but it doesn't change the ****-uaituation. I've read that when pumping up the fork you need to equalize the air cambers but all I can find on that is for the Float. What does equalizing the cambers feel like?
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help!


With the travel at full extension right after you put the lowers on/ pressurize the spring, you will feel rebound force decrease a little and it gets smoother as you push/pull on the bars


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

What exactly is new with the 2016 36 that makes the 2015 on sale? New Kashima coat formula is the only thing I can confirm. There's an additional 36 model with FIT4 3-compression adjust damper instead of RC2, and comes with 15QR-only lowers. Getting mixed reports about the air spring--I think it's the same as the 2015, with the blue spacers that slide onto the transfer shaft and internal travel adjustment with spacers, rather than the 34's new style air spring (Solo Air clone) that needs a specific air shaft size to change travel.


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

rideitall said:


> Interesting and informative link. For the most part they are also running the HSC in the range of 17-19 clicks from closed or only 4 - 6 clicks from open. The LSC has more of a range with some running very little and others quite a bit.
> 
> Not certain as to whether or not my Talas is an older tune or newer, but the Talas air spring runs about twice the air pressure as the Float. So for me at 140 - 142 psi for 190lb rider works with no bottom out. Perhaps I can go a little lower and then work more with the LSC.
> 
> ...


IMHO les is best with HSC if you want less spiking on sharp edge hits. IMHo best to keep the fork a bit progressive as the air spring progression is more subtle than using HSC.


----------



## tacubaya (Jan 27, 2006)

Deerhill said:


> With the travel at full extension right after you put the lowers on/ pressurize the spring, you will feel rebound force decrease a little and it gets smoother as you push/pull on the bars


If he's talking about a Talas V fork, they don't equalize as they use a coil negative spring.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

tacubaya said:


> If he's talking about a Talas V fork, they don't equalize as they use a coil negative spring.


Good catch, I was talking about the float.. when people continue plugging the zip tie I can stop reading sometimes.

On the talas v, have you seen any heavier or lighter coil negative springs available or is it one size fits all?


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Fox sent my fork back. With new uppers and a bunch of new parts due to rattling/clanking noise. I think the bushing clearance was too loose from the stanchions being undersized. The new fork is dead silent, and the new valving allows you to run the knobs in farther, instead of barely on. Noticably tighter bushing clearance. Im pretty stoked. Finally fork is solid, best fork I've ever had the pleasure to ride. This new technology is the ****


----------



## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Yody said:


> Fox sent my fork back. With new uppers and a bunch of new parts due to rattling/clanking noise. I think the bushing clearance was too loose from the stanchions being undersized. The new fork is dead silent, and the new valving allows you to run the knobs in farther, instead of barely on. Noticably tighter bushing clearance. Im pretty stoked. Finally fork is solid, best fork I've ever had the pleasure to ride. This new technology is the ****


Good to hear man! Mine has been solid too. High speed braking bumps would rattle my teeth on my old fork, but on the 2015 Float, it's like floating over a feathery pillow.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Yody said:


> Fox sent my fork back. With new uppers and a bunch of new parts due to rattling/clanking noise. I think the bushing clearance was too loose from the stanchions being undersized. The new fork is dead silent, and the new valving allows you to run the knobs in farther, instead of barely on. Noticably tighter bushing clearance. Im pretty stoked. Finally fork is solid, best fork I've ever had the pleasure to ride. This new technology is the ****


Yody,

Did they say what the rattling noise was? My original 36 has been back to Fox twice (bought in July 14), once for loose bushings and the second time for the dropout porosity issue. Now I've got some rattling sound as well, but the bushings seem tight, headset is tight, etc. Had my buddy verify as well to make sure I wasn't hearing things.

I need to contact them to get an RA to send it back again, but just curious what they told you.

Despite the issues, still best fork I've ever owned (sans a Marz 66 Ti with an Avy cart), and Fox CS is top notch.


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## Grizzy (Sep 12, 2009)

Are there known issues with some of the dampers? 

I've had 3 other 36RC2s over the years and always run 2-4 clicks fro full closed LSC. My current 36 just isn't firm enough. I'm at 90psi, 2 orange/1blue spacer, and with full closed LSC it still dives and offer VERY little support when leaning into the front end. Any thoughts/suggestions are welcome.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Something doesn't sound right on yours... I was running 67 psi, 2 blue spacers, LSC 9 clicks from closed and had tons of midstroke support. Minimal dive.

Had a bit too much ramp up though, so gonna try 72psi, 1 orange spacer and whatever LSC I end up with (starting at 13 from closed). Should be a bit more linear.

You settings sound whacked especially if still tons of dive.


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## murrdogg11 (Apr 4, 2010)

I'm having the opposite problem... very sticky at the top. I'm 200lbs and down to 55psi and still feels way too firm. 4 clicks of hsc, 10 of lsc.
zero small bump compliance. almost feels locked out until you get it to mid travel. just took it for a service but that didn't help.
tried taking all the air out and then airing back up. any other tricks or advice?
fork prob has 15-20 hrs on it.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

murrdogg11 said:


> I'm having the opposite problem... very sticky at the top. I'm 200lbs and down to 55psi and still feels way too firm. 4 clicks of hsc, 10 of lsc.
> zero small bump compliance. almost feels locked out until you get it to mid travel. just took it for a service but that didn't help.
> tried taking all the air out and then airing back up. any other tricks or advice?
> fork prob has 15-20 hrs on it.


I guess there is a chance you might have the older valving in the fork. I would imagine there are some still knocking around that have been sat in shops and with distributors waiting for people to buy them.

Mine was very very harsh off the top with no small bump compliance at all, that was with the older valving, the new valving is far better and the fork I always expected.


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## murrdogg11 (Apr 4, 2010)

I'm wondering if my problem is the negative spring being stuck. does this happen on the 36? how is it fixed?
]


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## Grizzy (Sep 12, 2009)

murrdogg11 said:


> I'm wondering if my problem is the negative spring being stuck. does this happen on the 36? how is it fixed?
> ]


So this is an indirect answer. I dont know if the negative spring can get stuck, but I do know you need to cycle it a bit to transfer the pressure. Fox has the specifics, but I think youo need to let the air out to about 20psi then cycle the fork slowly through the first 20mm of travel.

I did this every time I tried a new spacer combo and you could definitely feel the difference as the air transferred, and it easy and worth trying.


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## murrdogg11 (Apr 4, 2010)

Nice I'll give that a try thanks


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Towards the end of this how-to video from Fox for changing volume spacers, they go through the procedure of equalizing the negative spring...

They pressurize to 60 psi then cycle slowly just 3-5mm...

http://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=b...mpressionratiowithairvolumespacers(floatonly)


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## Rob-surf (Feb 4, 2004)

Hi there,
I’m trying to figure out whether I have the old or the new valving in my 36 RC2 170mm 27.5. I dropped a couple of messages to Fox without luck so far..The fork was bought in April 2015 but on the box the date says July – 2014. 
If I open the fork, will it be easy to spot a new valving v.s. an old one?
Thanks a lot


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

Rob-surf said:


> Hi there,
> I'm trying to figure out whether I have the old or the new valving in my 36 RC2 170mm 27.5. I dropped a couple of messages to Fox without luck so far..The fork was bought in April 2015 but on the box the date says July - 2014.
> If I open the fork, will it be easy to spot a new valving v.s. an old one?
> Thanks a lot


try calling them, but you most likely have the old valving


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## mrazz001 (Dec 23, 2009)

Pretty sure fox changed the valving in November. So if the box says July, it's most likely the original tune. Fox will switch it to the new one for free, you'll most likely just be out the shipping cost. I had the old tune and found that it was plush at the beginning of the travel but ramped up way too much. I definitely enjoy the newer tune much more.


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## Grizzy (Sep 12, 2009)

mrazz001 said:


> Pretty sure fox changed the valving in November. So if the box says July, it's most likely the original tune. Fox will switch it to the new one for free, you'll most likely just be out the shipping cost. I had the old tune and found that it was plush at the beginning of the travel but ramped up way too much. I definitely enjoy the newer tune much more.


So Maybe I can get some clarification in another way...

Compared to the Pike - would the RC2 with LSC fully closed be similar to the pike in trail mode?

I know that with my pike I had HSC increasing with LSC, so I know it's not exactly the same. I'm just trying to get some range that's expected because Fox hasn't been responsive to my questions.


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## Rob-surf (Feb 4, 2004)

mrazz001 said:


> Pretty sure fox changed the valving in November. So if the box says July, it's most likely the original tune. Fox will switch it to the new one for free, you'll most likely just be out the shipping cost. I had the old tune and found that it was plush at the beginning of the travel but ramped up way too much. I definitely enjoy the newer tune much more.


I think I have the old tune also...mine also feels plush in the beginning and ramp up too fast. I took the blue spacer out (now I have 0 spacers) and it makes a difference. Still haven't tried on "real" jumps and drops but it does feel more linear on the trail.

I'd really like Fox to answer my emails, it would be nice to know it for sure...


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Rob-surf said:


> I think I have the old tune also...mine also feels plush in the beginning and ramp up too fast. I took the blue spacer out (now I have 0 spacers) and it makes a difference. Still haven't tried on "real" jumps and drops but it does feel more linear on the trail.
> 
> I'd really like Fox to answer my emails, it would be nice to know it for sure...


I've called them numerous times and they've always answered and been helpful. Try the phone.


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## Rob-surf (Feb 4, 2004)

They just answered my email: and of course it's the older valving  

Thanks to all..

r


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

rscecil007 said:


> Yody,
> 
> Did they say what the rattling noise was? My original 36 has been back to Fox twice (bought in July 14), once for loose bushings and the second time for the dropout porosity issue. Now I've got some rattling sound as well, but the bushings seem tight, headset is tight, etc. Had my buddy verify as well to make sure I wasn't hearing things.
> 
> ...


They just sent me back a parts list, think rebound base plate, uppers, and a hunch of other mumbo jumbo


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## mrazz001 (Dec 23, 2009)

Definitely get them on the phone. I still haven't removed my blue spacer. Even with the new tune I'm not using full travel. I guess its not a bad thing. Heard from some pros that the last 1/2 inch-inch is supposed to only be there for that super oh-**** moment. I made the champherless socket to experiment with removing the spacer, but I haven't yet.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

The-Flow-Zone said:


> LUBE THE SEALS...... They come dry from FOX, doing this dramatically changes the way the fork feels.


Confirmed this.
When I had my tune/shim stacking updated at the factory, I suspect the tech might have wiped off the grease I had put on the main seal and didn't relube during reassembly. So, dropped the lowers last night and sure enough, no sign of fresh grease.
So I soaked the foam ring w/ motor oil from a syringe, covered the foam ring w/ Slickoleum (same thing as Slick Honey) and the main seal. Last time I did this I went from ~62 psi to ~72 psi in the air chamber to achieve the same sag (~22 to 25%).


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Interesting because I got mine back and it keeps squeezing when it gets dusty and I have to turn the fork upside down to get oil to the seals. I'll drop the lowers today and Re coat everything


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Yody said:


> Interesting because I got mine back and it keeps squeezing when it gets dusty and I have to turn the fork upside down to get oil to the seals. I'll drop the lowers today and Re coat everything


I used 20/50 Valvolene Maxlife synthetic motor oil I had left from years ago. Might want to give Mobile 1 a go, I've heard good reports of it as lube oil.


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## The Squeaky Wheel (Dec 30, 2003)

PUSH fork seals....highly recommended. Much slicker than stock. Cheap upgrade.


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## mrazz001 (Dec 23, 2009)

The Squeaky Wheel said:


> PUSH fork seals....highly recommended. Much slicker than stock. Cheap upgrade.


Just note they specifically state they aren't compatible with the stock fox 20 wt gold oil. Also double check that changing oils won't void any warranties--I thought it does.


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## croakies (Mar 4, 2011)

I wonder why the push seals would not be compatible with gold. Anyone know why?

Sent from my unknown using Tapatalk


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

croakies said:


> I wonder why the push seals would not be compatible with gold. Anyone know why?
> 
> Sent from my unknown using Tapatalk


A quick search brings up the info iirc. It's to do with the pooling of the 20wt oil from what I can remember.


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## cmrocks (Sep 30, 2013)

Does anyone know if there's an aftermarket company out there that offers a coil spring conversion for a 2015 Fox 36 170 mm 650b?


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Anyone get a creeky/sqeeky fork from dusty conditions? Mine keeps getting dry and you can hear the rubber seals rubbing against the stanchions. i've tried changing the oils and slick honey the seals, soak the rings, etc. After an hour or so of dusty riding I get this annoying squeek while pedaling. If I turn the bike upside down for a few minutes and ride again the noise goes away for awhile. Thinking of going with 10weight oil, wondering if the 20 weight is too clingy and attracting the dirt, and creating the squeek.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I bought my Fox 36s last August and sent them in for a service to Fox to prepare for Angel Fire. I hadn't really noticed any issues but I didn't find the valving particular firm in the midrange. It also seemed like there was the tiniest bit of looseness but I could never be certain.

Well all under warranty, new seals, new bushings, new valving, new oil, and shipping back to me. All covered.

I can hardly wait to hit the trails again! Good service. I consider myself a Fox guy now.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

Yody said:


> Anyone get a creeky/sqeeky fork from dusty conditions? Mine keeps getting dry and you can hear the rubber seals rubbing against the stanchions. i've tried changing the oils and slick honey the seals, soak the rings, etc. After an hour or so of dusty riding I get this annoying squeek while pedaling. If I turn the bike upside down for a few minutes and ride again the noise goes away for awhile. Thinking of going with 10weight oil, wondering if the 20 weight is too clingy and attracting the dirt, and creating the squeek.


kind of a slow reply, but a few thoughts.

when did you last replace the seals and wipers? a worn seal does what you're describing. also tends to leave rubber on the stanchions - do you have any of that?

the 20wt oil is thick, but no dust should get past the wiper, so it won't attract any more or less dirt than a thinner oil.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Thanks, they are supposed to be brand new seals. However I talked to fox and supposedly they're sending me new seals to try, just to make sure


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Yody said:


> Anyone get a creeky/sqeeky fork from dusty conditions? Mine keeps getting dry and you can hear the rubber seals rubbing against the stanchions. i've tried changing the oils and slick honey the seals, soak the rings, etc. After an hour or so of dusty riding I get this annoying squeek while pedaling. If I turn the bike upside down for a few minutes and ride again the noise goes away for awhile. Thinking of going with 10weight oil, wondering if the 20 weight is too clingy and attracting the dirt, and creating the squeek.


Can't say that I've heard my fork seals squeak. I had mine reworked by Fox under warranty for the early valving (stiff/harsh). Fork's been running great although with the new tune it's been a new learning curve on all my settings again.

I have flipped the fork upside down for a good 4 hrs to make sure the rings were soaked with oil. Also recently deflated the air chamber and reinflated to balance the negative chamber per Fox's recommended process (inflate to 50, cycle it slowly 3-5mm, then inflate to target pressure - in my case 68 psi).


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## Grizzy (Sep 12, 2009)

+1 on fox service. Personally not a fan of the softer tune and when I reached out they offered to swap it back to the original firmer tune. Haven't got it back yet but really like the customer service they've provided.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Yody said:


> Anyone get a creeky/sqeeky fork from dusty conditions? Mine keeps getting dry and you can hear the rubber seals rubbing against the stanchions. i've tried changing the oils and slick honey the seals, soak the rings, etc. After an hour or so of dusty riding I get this annoying squeek while pedaling. If I turn the bike upside down for a few minutes and ride again the noise goes away for awhile. Thinking of going with 10weight oil, wondering if the 20 weight is too clingy and attracting the dirt, and creating the squeek.


Good chance your main seal is completely dry. I dropped the lowers on my original out of the box fork and they were dry. Then, when I got it back after the retune/reshim, they were wiped clean at the service and is completely dry again. You might just need to drop the lowers and Slick Honey the main seals.


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## murrdogg11 (Apr 4, 2010)

My fork has been feeling quite harsh at the top of its travel for a bit now. i tried airing it down and back up to reset the negative spring but now my negative spring is definitely stuck. 10mm of my stanchion is sucked into the lower leg, even at 100psi. i tried fox's instructions of pressurizing the fork to 60psi and cycling 3-5mm to equalize the chambers but its not working. any suggestions? oh well, i guess this is a good reason to send it to fox.


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## tacubaya (Jan 27, 2006)

Pau11y said:


> Good chance your main seal is completely dry. I dropped the lowers on my original out of the box fork and they were dry. Then, when I got it back after the retune/reshim, they were wiped clean at the service and is completely dry again. You might just need to drop the lowers and Slick Honey the main seals.


Yeah, Fox is now shipping forks with dry wiper seals.


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## hardboiled (Jun 10, 2006)

tacubaya said:


> Yeah, Fox is now shipping forks with dry wiper seals.


ok i'll bite... why?


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

tacubaya said:


> Yeah, Fox is now shipping forks with dry wiper seals.


I'm 2 for 2 in my exp. My buddy (shop owner) who has ordered a handful for clients dropped a couple of lowers for his bike and he's also 2 for 2. Small sample, but this isn't a good "indication."


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

^^ same here, the springs did have slick honey though.. on another note, anybody know if there is anything in the Gold 20wt fox oil that would bother the air chamber seals? Thinking of trying a couple drops in there once in a while to prevent the air leakage into the lowers.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

murrdogg11 said:


> My fork has been feeling quite harsh at the top of its travel for a bit now. i tried airing it down and back up to reset the negative spring but now my negative spring is definitely stuck. 10mm of my stanchion is sucked into the lower leg, even at 100psi. i tried fox's instructions of pressurizing the fork to 60psi and cycling 3-5mm to equalize the chambers but its not working. any suggestions? oh well, i guess this is a good reason to send it to fox.


Had the same issues. Burping it would help a lot but only temporarily. Sent in for a look this week. Fingers crossed it comes back performing well.


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

When you guys send your 36's in, is this a free service or do you expect to pay for a fix/service.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

riding4fun said:


> When you guys send your 36's in, is this a free service or do you expect to pay for a fix/service.


All cases Of clearly having issues mentioned in this thread seemed to be covered. Not sure if I'll get charged, mines still under warranty so I'm hoping it covered cause I sure it's a fault not just in need of service


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Mine was under warranty - no charge, not even for shipping.


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## bkrupp (Apr 21, 2014)

LCW said:


> Mine was under warranty - no charge, not even for shipping.


So I would also like to know exactly what they did to your fork, or anyones fork that they did the update to.

Did they do a complete service and everything including changing the valving/damping to the updated version?

I have mine in there right now, and it seems like they want to charge me for the entire service and all. Not sure if after less than a year or so of use it should still be fully covered or if I should have expected them to charge me for the full service (and they include the valve update at no charge).

Or should I tell them that it was stiff and harsh and ask them to cover it all?


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

How did it go? 

This Fox Shox bike warranty period looks like it has been cut in half to one year.. used to be two year warranty right??

My air spring performance feels terrible after one good rocky ride and the air shaft keeps getting stuck in the lowers, even with the tool the servicing is getting old. Quite a bit of other issues really for the price, and it seems like warranty issues should be extended and covered beyond a year... Not sure if I want to try vanilla swap or just send it in..


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Deerhill said:


> How did it go?
> 
> This Fox Shox bike warranty period looks like it has been cut in half to one year.. used to be two year warranty right??
> 
> My air spring performance feels terrible after one good rocky ride and the air shaft keeps getting stuck in the lowers, even with the tool the servicing is getting old. Quite a bit of other issues really for the price, and it seems like warranty issues should be extended and covered beyond a year... Not sure if I want to try vanilla swap or just send it in..


I'd just send it in. It's way better and lighter than a vanilla. Mines been great since the service and new tune.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

bkrupp said:


> So I would also like to know exactly what they did to your fork, or anyones fork that they did the update to.
> 
> Did they do a complete service and everything including changing the valving/damping to the updated version?
> 
> ...


Just got mine back. Yet to ride - apparently it's gonna snow this weekend so might be a week. They say they revalved it and full service. I just had to Pay postage but no big deal.


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## bkrupp (Apr 21, 2014)

Snozz said:


> Just got mine back. Yet to ride - apparently it's gonna snow this weekend so might be a week. They say they revalved it and full service. I just had to Pay postage but no big deal.


What did you have to say to get them to cover everything? I've got my second 36 to get updated, maybe this time I won't have to pay.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

bkrupp said:


> What did you have to say to get them to cover everything? I've got my second 36 to get updated, maybe this time I won't have to pay.


A few things I mentioned. Harsh unless I burp them after every few rides. Not fully extending. And pls check if old valving and quoted the tech bulletin.


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

Deerhill said:


> How did it go?
> 
> This Fox Shox bike warranty period looks like it has been cut in half to one year.. used to be two year warranty right??
> 
> My air spring performance feels terrible after one good rocky ride and the air shaft keeps getting stuck in the lowers, even with the tool the servicing is getting old. Quite a bit of other issues really for the price, and it seems like warranty issues should be extended and covered beyond a year... Not sure if I want to try vanilla swap or just send it in..


I think Fox's warranty has always been 1 year.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Vespasianus said:


> I think Fox's warranty has always been 1 year.


Maybe I am thinking of the CSU's.. which they did a great job of covering under warranty


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Shredman69 said:


> I'd just send it in. It's way better and lighter than a vanilla. Mines been great since the service and new tune.


My Vanilla's are really good... For reference, how many miles before people are lube / servicing the air spring assembly?


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

bkrupp said:


> So I would also like to know exactly what they did to your fork, or anyones fork that they did the update to.
> 
> Did they do a complete service and everything including changing the valving/damping to the updated version?
> 
> ...


Actually the first time I sent it in there was a snafu. All they did was change the oil and put new seals in. Didn't revalve. Was no charge though. Sent it back in under a new RA ticket #. They revalved the fork with some lighter shim stack. Much improved - way less harsh. Again no charge. Everything was covered including shipping to and from.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Hey there, recently lowered one of these (2015 float 36) to 130mm for my Evil following but even after my first ride I still have 137mm of exposed stantion. Is this normal? Does is settle down as the fork breaks in? 

Thanks for the help!


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

There's a small amount of stanchion that remains exposed on my 160. I tried it fully deflated. So probably normal in your case.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

LCW said:


> There's a small amount of stanchion that remains exposed on my 160. I tried it fully deflated. So probably normal in your case.


Thanks for the feedback. The only other fox float I dealt with was an older 32. It was a 120mm fork with about 124mm of exposed stantion. 137mm seemed like kind of a lot. I was able to get the sag meter only a coulple MM away from the crown on my first ride so it appears this one is riding a bit high. May end up adding another spacer. Main reason I went with this over the Pike was the lower A2C (well that and I got a great deal).


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

bottoming out on a Fox fork or shock with Kashima coat generally puts the o-ring right in the middle of the Kashima logo. so, stanchion exposed beyond that is not usable travel.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Useful info there. I'll take an A2C measurement and compare with my friend's Pike to see what's what.


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## AaronJobe (Sep 20, 2009)

Can somebody help me get a base tune for my 140mm 36 on my Evil Following? I need a platform for hsc lsc and rebound as I am definitely not a suspension guru.. 

Thanks!


----------



## RyeBokeh (Feb 23, 2007)

Anyone know if the Fit4 36 uses the same volume air spacers as the RC2 or does it use the new clip on type like the 34's?


----------



## rondre3000 (May 29, 2009)

AaronJobe said:


> Can somebody help me get a base tune for my 140mm 36 on my Evil Following? I need a platform for hsc lsc and rebound as I am definitely not a suspension guru..
> 
> Thanks!


I run mine w/ 35mm of sag. Seems to work great as the midstroke is great for rough terrain. HSC between 2-4 clicks from full open, LSC between 6-10 clicks from full open. Rebound to taste, but I'm usually on the faster end.

Hope that helps...

-Ron.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

I’ve got something that seems a bit odd going on with one of my 36’s. I did the first service on the lowers of my new one probably 10 days ago, very straight forward following the video instructions on Fox’s website. The only thing I did differently was I forgot to pull the foam rings out near the seals and soak them in oil, but I did add some Slick Honey to the seal areas. Fork went back together normally and feels great.

Problem is even after 5 or 6 rides now, I’m still getting an oil/slick honey (or mix) residue on the stanchion on the damper side, and more than I’d like. The air spring side has nothing. I would expect to get a bit of residue during the first ride or so, this has always happened to me for years when I packed the seal areas with slick honey on my other forks. But not the amount I’m getting 6 rides later.

Anyone have any thoughts? I know the damper side gets quite a bit more oil than the air spring, so maybe that’s mixing with the slick honey and is the reason the damper side has issues and the air spring isn’t? I don’t think or see how I could have damaged anything on the inside of the fork when I put the lowers back on, but I could be wrong.

Thanks for any thoughts.


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## cmrocks (Sep 30, 2013)

Quick question about bottoming out. How much fork stanction should be above the oring when bottoming out the fork? I swear that I bottomed out my fork on my last ride, heard a loud clank from the front end. When I checked the oring on the fork, there was approx 1/4 inch showing above the oring.


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## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

cmrocks said:


> Quick question about bottoming out. How much fork stanction should be above the oring when bottoming out the fork? I swear that I bottomed out my fork on my last ride, heard a loud clank from the front end. When I checked the oring on the fork, there was approx 1/4 inch showing above the oring.


That's the bottom. Around 10mm is still shows.


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## Trajan (Feb 9, 2004)

cmrocks said:


> Quick question about bottoming out. How much fork stanction should be above the oring when bottoming out the fork? I swear that I bottomed out my fork on my last ride, heard a loud clank from the front end. When I checked the oring on the fork, there was approx 1/4 inch showing above the oring.


Measure the travel.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Best thing to do is let all the air out and see where it bottoms. I've got 2 36's and along with my buddies the logo is in a different spot on all three.


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## elsinore (Jun 10, 2005)

rscecil007 said:


> I've got something that seems a bit odd going on with one of my 36's. I did the first service on the lowers of my new one probably 10 days ago, very straight forward following the video instructions on Fox's website. The only thing I did differently was I forgot to pull the foam rings out near the seals and soak them in oil, but I did add some Slick Honey to the seal areas. Fork went back together normally and feels great.
> 
> Problem is even after 5 or 6 rides now, I'm still getting an oil/slick honey (or mix) residue on the stanchion on the damper side, and more than I'd like. The air spring side has nothing. I would expect to get a bit of residue during the first ride or so, this has always happened to me for years when I packed the seal areas with slick honey on my other forks. But not the amount I'm getting 6 rides later.
> 
> ...


When you changed the bath oil did you notice how much old bath fluid came out of the damper side? The new bath oil fox developed is gnarly and will wear out the dust wiper seals fast. My fork is doing the same thing and I've been told that the new gold stuff just wears out seals quicker. Since there is a lot of oil in the damper side it's more noticeable.


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## tacubaya (Jan 27, 2006)

I have tested the 2016 Float 36 for about 15 days in Whistler and I did get some "wet" dirt on the seal lip and a couple of oil rings at about day 9. I opened the fork up (at day 10) and the seals were clean, no dirt, so all I can think of is:

A) Fox's SKF flangeless seal suck.
B) Fox's 20WT Gold is just too sticky.

In the lift, I saw a huge amount of 2015-2016 36 and 2016 40s with the same issue, so I am sure it was not just my fork.

I think Fox went overboard with the viscosity and amount of tackifiers on the 20WT.


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

tacubaya said:


> I have tested the 2016 Float 36 for about 15 days in Whistler and I did get some "wet" dirt on the seal lip and a couple of oil rings at about day 9. I opened the fork up (at day 10) and the seals were clean, no dirt, so all I can think of is:
> 
> A) Fox's SKF flangeless seal suck.
> B) Fox's 20WT Gold is just too sticky.
> ...


No issues with mine.


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## tiSS'er (Jan 6, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> I've got something that seems a bit odd going on with one of my 36's. I did the first service on the lowers of my new one probably 10 days ago, very straight forward following the video instructions on Fox's website. The only thing I did differently was I forgot to pull the foam rings out near the seals and soak them in oil, but I did add some Slick Honey to the seal areas. Fork went back together normally and feels great.
> 
> Problem is even after 5 or 6 rides now, I'm still getting an oil/slick honey (or mix) residue on the stanchion on the damper side, and more than I'd like. The air spring side has nothing. I would expect to get a bit of residue during the first ride or so, this has always happened to me for years when I packed the seal areas with slick honey on my other forks. But not the amount I'm getting 6 rides later.
> 
> ...


Your seals are probably going bad. 6 months on mine before they died, the left side was spewing crazy bad, and it started nearly immediately with very little warning. Probably best to plan on replacing the seals when you do a service.

Not sure I understand how oil can cause seals to wear, I think the issue is more related to the low friction, looser fitting seals.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

elsinore said:


> When you changed the bath oil did you notice how much old bath fluid came out of the damper side? The new bath oil fox developed is gnarly and will wear out the dust wiper seals fast. My fork is doing the same thing and I've been told that the new gold stuff just wears out seals quicker. Since there is a lot of oil in the damper side it's more noticeable.


No, I didn't measure it sorry.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

tiSS'er said:


> Your seals are probably going bad. 6 months on mine before they died, the left side was spewing crazy bad, and it started nearly immediately with very little warning. Probably best to plan on replacing the seals when you do a service.
> 
> Not sure I understand how oil can cause seals to wear, I think the issue is more related to the low friction, looser fitting seals.


Odd if that's the case, this fork hardly has any riding on it, few months old at best. But I guess I can order up a set of seals...


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

*2016 dust seals different from 2015?*

Interesting you guys mention these, never had an issue with dusty dry conditions and the dust seal, on either leg...beat down tons of hard miles...the performance from air spring seals are another story.


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## gent96 (Jul 7, 2012)

To those who already have or tested the 2016 Fox 36 RC2, what are your thoughts so far? TIA.


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

FOX says to bleed off the pressure in the air spring when doing lower leg service. 

Any thoughts on the purpose for this?

I've bled the pressure to zero, I've also left the spring aired up.


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## hojong (Jul 25, 2006)

Anybody know if the Magura QM26 adapter works on a 2015/2016 Fox 36 for converting the 180mm to 203mm? I've got Shimano Zees and the Shimano SM-MA-F203P/PM seems to be out of stock everywhere!


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## bkrupp (Apr 21, 2014)

So the Fox fork is a direct mount 180mm. So for a 203 rotor you need to find the 183 post to post option, or a 180 to 203, anything +23mm. There are a number of companies that make one. Hope is one popular brand that makes a 183 post front adaptor (see link below).

That Shimano one you posted I don't think will work. It is for a 160 to 203 post mount. I used to use a 160 to 180 mm adaptor, and used two small washers to space the mount out a mm or two. Then I got the real Fox one. The real Fox Adaptor, link below, is the best option, has the exact correct length bolts and all.

Hope (H-Version)
Hope Disc Brake Adaptor > Components > Drivetrain, Brakes and Pedals > Brake Adapters | Jenson USA

Ideally you would get the Fox one:
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=68235

Fox is backordered 2 weeks out right now. But if you can wait it is worth it, or just buy the hope adaptor.

Edit:
Shimano has an adaptor too, out of stock everywhere as well everyone I looked:
ASMMAF203PPM - part number
Shimano Disc Brake Adapters | Competitive Cyclist - (it is the last one on their list)


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

The Magura QM26 works as advertised.

I was waiting for the Shimano adapter as well, but I got tired of waiting and bought the Magura adapter. I liked the simplicity and weight savings of the Shimano adapter.



phugger said:


> Anybody know if the Magura QM26 adapter works on a 2015/2016 Fox 36 for converting the 180mm to 203mm? I've got Shimano Zees and the Shimano SM-MA-F203P/PM seems to be out of stock everywhere!


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## TahoeBC (Apr 11, 2006)

RyeBokeh said:


> Anyone know if the Fit4 36 uses the same volume air spacers as the RC2 or does it use the new clip on type like the 34's?


I removed a volume spacer last night out of mine, never had the non fit4 36 but I think it's the same, not a clip spacer. You have to take a little o-ring off the rod and slide a spacer on an off. Mine came stock with one blue spacer installed which I removed, came with 4 orange and another blue one packaged in the box with the fork.


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## Markiel (Mar 26, 2015)

phugger said:


> Anybody know if the Magura QM26 adapter works on a 2015/2016 Fox 36 for converting the 180mm to 203mm? I've got Shimano Zees and the Shimano SM-MA-F203P/PM seems to be out of stock everywhere!


I was in the same boat, and ended up ordering the Magura QM26. It seems to be working, but I'm no expert.

I also tried the shimano +20mm adapter with washers, and I couldn't get it just right. So I think the Magura option is better.


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## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Anyone know if a mudguard have been made to be compatible with the little threaded holes on the arch?


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## cmrocks (Sep 30, 2013)

Just wondering what everyone recommends for pressure in the fork? Do you follow Fox's settings?

I have a 170 mm Fox 36 and I'm finding that it feels best at 65 psi. I'm about 170 lbs in street clothes.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

I'm 195 ish geared up and run below Fox's recommendation - but also running more spacers (added 1 orange to the stock 1 blue). Running 70-72 depending on terrain. Recommended is 78. Mine is a 26" 36 RC2 160.


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## AxelH (Jul 11, 2012)

Sorry, a little bit off the issue of thos thread, two questions.

I have a 36 Talas 2012, converted to float, rebound control only, no High/low compression control.

1: will heavier oil or more oil than recommended (155ml) in the rebound leg give me more low speed damping? With 7wt. I find the fork break diving a bit too much.
2: is there a conversion available for the rebound side which would give me hi/low speed compression control?


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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

Considering a Fox 36 for my HD3, the pike just doesn't agree with me (i find it a bit harsh and not quite stiff enough).

Is there a real world performance difference between the Fit4 and the RC2? I never lock my fork out so the settings are worthless to me, once my forks are dialed I never touch them - from a pure apples to apples performance standpoint are there any differences?

I do have a slight preference for the Fit3 model purely because of the 15Qr - I am forced to use a roof rack with my bike, but not a deal breaker


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## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Flow Zone Q36R Makes Quick Work of 2015 Fox 36 Wheel Changes

I have an RC2 on my HD3. set and forget. it's awesome. no comment about the FIT cuz I've never tried.



baltik said:


> Considering a Fox 36 for my HD3, the pike just doesn't agree with me (i find it a bit harsh and not quite stiff enough).
> 
> Is there a real world performance difference between the Fit4 and the RC2? I never lock my fork out so the settings are worthless to me, once my forks are dialed I never touch them - from a pure apples to apples performance standpoint are there any differences?
> 
> I do have a slight preference for the Fit3 model purely because of the 15Qr - I am forced to use a roof rack with my bike, but not a deal breaker


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## JohnnyVV (Feb 28, 2015)

baltik said:


> I never lock my fork out so the settings are worthless to me, once my forks are dialed I never touch them - from a pure apples to apples performance standpoint are there any differences?


I don't think there's a real performance difference based on owning an RC2 and demoing a Mach 6 with a FiT except in the sense that you can't set the FiT up as precisely. If you want to set it and forget it, the RC2 seems like a better option for dialing it in just right. I too have an HD3 and it's an awesome fork for it.

That said, the aluminum axle is soft as butter and if you ever over-torque it or unscrew it with a pinch bolt still tight, expect to be hammering a larger torx head into it to get it out. In a rush, I failed to loosen one of the four bolts and rounded out the head on mine using little force. (It still turns fine with a torx, but I replaced it anyway for $50.:madman I like to believe I won't make that mistake again, but if I had to pull my wheel every time I stuck it on the car, I might think twice.

Anyway, it still comes off fast and is no real hassle. So long as you're not the type to make a mistake like mine, I wouldn't pass on the adjustability of the RC2.


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## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Two quick questions...

Why did Fox go with a flangeless seal? I can't tell you how many tries it took me to set that in! 

Second, with winter coming (any Game of Thrones fans out there? ) do you know if there is a mud guard out there that actually integrates into the threaded holes on the fork brace?


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Junersun said:


> Two quick questions...
> 
> Why did Fox go with a flangeless seal? I can't tell you how many tries it took me to set that in!
> 
> Second, with winter coming (any Game of Thrones fans out there? ) do you know if there is a mud guard out there that actually integrates into the threaded holes on the fork brace?


I don't know about the fender, but if u find out, let me know. I'm looking for one too.


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

baltik said:


> Considering a Fox 36 for my HD3, the pike just doesn't agree with me (i find it a bit harsh and not quite stiff enough).
> 
> Is there a real world performance difference between the Fit4 and the RC2? I never lock my fork out so the settings are worthless to me, once my forks are dialed I never touch them - from a pure apples to apples performance standpoint are there any differences?
> 
> I do have a slight preference for the Fit3 model purely because of the 15Qr - I am forced to use a roof rack with my bike, but not a deal breaker


There is a 3rd party company out there selling a QR axle conversion for the RC2. They will package it with a new fork at a good price, I believe. I forget the name, but I'm sure they're mentioned earlier in the thread.


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## PiousInquisitor (Oct 19, 2014)

reamer41 said:


> There is a 3rd party company out there selling a QR axle conversion for the RC2. They will package it with a new fork at a good price, I believe. I forget the name, but I'm sure they're mentioned earlier in the thread.


Oh, you mean like the one in the link provided 4 posts above yours?

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

PiousInquisitor said:


> Oh, you mean like the one in the link provided 4 posts above yours?
> 
> Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


Maybe. Whats your point?


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## PiousInquisitor (Oct 19, 2014)

reamer41 said:


> Maybe. Whats your point?


RIF

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Junersun said:


> Two quick questions...
> 
> Why did Fox go with a flangeless seal? I can't tell you how many tries it took me to set that in!
> 
> Second, with winter coming (any Game of Thrones fans out there? ) do you know if there is a mud guard out there that actually integrates into the threaded holes on the fork brace?


Don't think there is a guard yet that mounts using the holes. If you are looking for the king of mudguards I can recommend the Dfender. Yes it looks like a zit on a super model and it ain't cheap but it's by far and away the best guard I have ever used! Living in the UK means it's used almost all year round too!

POWA PRODUCTS: DFender Mountain Bike Mudguard::


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

I misplaced the retaining ring for the air piston, that goes into the groove at the bottom of the stanchion under the neg spring hardware. Anyone know what I should look for as a suitable replacement for it? Can stop by the hardware store, but like to be armed with knowledge beforehand to know what to look for. Does it matter if I just use any snap ring that fit? Assuming they just used the one they did to save 1g or so, and not deposit zinc or whatever into the oil?


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## bkrupp (Apr 21, 2014)

Varaxis said:


> I misplaced the retaining ring for the air piston, that goes into the groove at the bottom of the stanchion under the neg spring hardware. Anyone know what I should look for as a suitable replacement for it? Can stop by the hardware store, but like to be armed with knowledge beforehand to know what to look for. Does it matter if I just use any snap ring that fit? Assuming they just used the one they did to save 1g or so, and not deposit zinc or whatever into the oil?


I wouldn't put in any old snap ring. It isn't a traditional style or anything. It has the necessary dimensions to hold the whole assembly up and in proper position.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

A few days ago I've bought 2015 Fox 36 Float 160mm. I've been reading this thread some time and compression tunes bother me.
I think on my box is August 2014 date, so I assume my fork has older, harsher tune. I will try contacting Fox to confirm it.

What bothers me is that I am not sure if I should try to get local Fox dealer to change tune to the new one or not.
I have about 70kg (154lbs) so I am among lighter riders. I am running somewhere around 62 PSI in the fork, LSC 10 clicks from open and 4 clicks of HSC from open. I've removed stock spacer from the float cartridge since I found it too progressive. Now I can (almost) bottom it, I can get o-ring on the middle of the kashima label on sliders on jumps and hard compressions.

Before new fork I've been riding Fox Van Factory 180 2013. It is a little harder to compare the forks because of 20mm of travel difference and because van has coil. 
I found that new fork rides higher in the travel, it is less bouncy and noticeable firmer when sprinting (I compete in enduro on amateur level). It takes big hits nice but on the other side I think I can feel smaller stuff a little more. I am not sure if this is because of stiff compression tune or because coil works plusher and because it had 20mm more. 
Some of you described the old tune as very harsh, I don't find it that harsh. Also when climbing it moves over roots nicely.

I am not sure if I would like newer, softer tune more. Well first I need to get confirmed which tune is currently in the fork...

I would like to hear more reports/comparisons between older and newer tunes. I think that everyone is raving about newer tune, but there must be some downsides...


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## JohnnyVV (Feb 28, 2015)

Snakes said:


> I've removed stock spacer from the float cartridge since I found it too progressive. Now I can (almost) bottom it, I can get o-ring on the middle of the kashima label on sliders on jumps and hard compressions.


That may be the bottom. A lot of 36s don't go past the Kashima label. Mine goes just past it, but I have seen others that do not. It's worth deflating it to find out if you haven't already.

Regarding the tune, there are a lot of detailed reports already in the thread and no one seems to have preferred the old one. I have the current tune, and while I can't compare directly, I haven't had any of the small bump harshness that folks with the older valve tune complained of that I couldn't adjust out. It did take several rides to dial it in for my weight, riding, and terrain, though. I'd call up Fox and see which tune you have, and send it in if you have the old one. If you have the new tune, you may just need to play with it a bit more. I'd try opening the high speed compression a touch and then put the spacer back in if I was bottoming.

All that said, neither tune isn't going to feel quite like a 180mm Van. The spring curve is necessarily more progressive.


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

Hey Snakes, what's your sag with the 62 psi? From what I can figure from what others have done is if you want a softer ride you need to go lower psi
but need to volume spacers in the fork to keep it from bottoming out. So I would add the spacer back in and start over with less lsc and maybe faster rebound.

Also this is my PSA notice for Fox fork owners: Check your bath oil levels!! My new Fox 36 RC2 (as well of my last 2 Fox 34's) had much less than called for oil levels.
Usually the air or Talas side is the worse.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Yeah, two years ago when I bought Van I opened it and checked bath oil level before I've installed it on the bike. It had about half of the required oil.
I didn't buy gold oil yet, so I didn't open it yet. I will also lubricate wiper seals with RSP grease.

I've got about 27mm of sag, so probably around 30mm with equipment. Maybe I could lower the pressure a bit. But I don't think I would like it.

I've removed stock volume token because I didn't like how deep the fork sunk when I was sitting on the bike stopped on one steep section. I wasn't near bottoming it out but nevertheless fork dived too much, so I said I will remove the token and increase the pressure a little bit, so it will stay higher in the travel and it will still use more of the travel on bigger hits.
Without the token o-ring gets to the middle of the kashima label.

I've measured how high is the kashima label, it is about 145mm high, so there should still be some more travel. I didn't try to bottom the fork when there was no air inside.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

blcman said:


> Also this is my PSA notice for Fox fork owners: Check your bath oil levels!! My new Fox 36 RC2 (as well of my last 2 Fox 34's) had much less than called for oil levels.
> Usually the air or Talas side is the worse.


I have always found this to be down to a lot of oil sitting up in the area of the retainer for the airspring in the leg. It just sees to get caught up in that part of the fork.


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

Rick Draper said:


> I have always found this to be down to a lot of oil sitting up in the area of the retainer for the airspring in the leg. It just sees to get caught up in that part of the fork.


That could be part of the reason for levels to be lower than spec'd in the Floats, but my Fox 36 RC2 is a Talas version and doesn't have this air spring and retainer and only
10 ml. came out (after being upright for a while) when it should have had 40 ml. Only had 20ml in damper side when it should have 30 ml.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

blcman said:


> That could be part of the reason for levels to be lower than spec'd in the Floats, but my Fox 36 RC2 is a Talas version and doesn't have this air spring and retainer and only
> 10 ml. came out (after being upright for a while) when it should have had 40 ml. Only had 20ml in damper side when it should have 30 ml.


I'd say it might be close to spec when you consider what will be coating the talas cartridge and what it holds in the lower plastic part of the cartridge and over the springs too.


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## Rob-surf (Feb 4, 2004)

Snakes said:


> A few days ago I've bought 2015 Fox 36 Float 160mm. I've been reading this thread some time and compression tunes bother me.
> I think on my box is August 2014 date, so I assume my fork has older, harsher tune. I will try contacting Fox to confirm it.
> 
> What bothers me is that I am not sure if I should try to get local Fox dealer to change tune to the new one or not.
> ...


Hi there, 
I'm also 70 kg naked and I do have the newer tune on 170mm model. I've been playing a lot with sag and volume spacers over the summer and I ended up with one orange token and ~55-56 psi, 8-10 clicks from open of low speed and 6-8 clicks from open of high speed

I did all my setting based on performances on a specific run in a lift assisted bike park. The run was pretty flow with men-made turns and small jumps (1 to 1.5 meters ). What I was trying to evaluate was comfort on smaller impacts (brake bumps), brake dive and bottom out on the jumps. 
I always changed one parameter at the time trying to stick to a decent geeky scientific method. Each time I was sure I was hitting the sweet spot I wanted to try something else "just in case". 
I started with no spacer and 60 psi, then lower psi, then add clicks then redude clicks and add more volume spacers. With a big surprise I found out that one of the setting I liked most was with one blue + one orange spacer. With this set up the bike was literally flying over obstacles and jumping way higher than with less spacers. The downside was a little harshness and more fatigue. If I would usually ride in more demanding conditions with big drops and jumps I would keep it that way. Unfortunately the kind of riding I do for the rest of the year is more gentle so I took out the blue and kept the orange spacer. With this set up the fork has good progression, uses the travel when needed and can bottom out (7mm of exposed stanchion) on bigger drops (~2 meters) or on oh sh!t situations.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

So I've contacted Fox and didn't get any useful information regarding tune of my 36.
They won't change it under warranty, they've confirmed to me that it can be custom tuned if you pay them, that's basically all that I could get out of them. They didn't tell me with which tune the fork came...
I will try contacting our local Fox distributor. I am still not sure if I even want to change anything regarding compression tune.

Ohh one more thing, they've confirmed to me that dust seals should be dry. So I am not sure what to do. I will buy Fox gold oil and check oil levels, but I am not sure if I should put some RSP slick kick grease on seals or not?

@Rob-surf I was also thinking of adding one orange token inside and maybe lowering pressure a little. Currently my pressure seems quite perfect (around 62PSI) I am bottoming it sometimes. I didn't do many jumping this year so I am a little out of jumping form. For drops I think it would be a little too soft and I would need at least one spacer.


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## BTTR (Jun 6, 2012)

Rob-surf said:


> Hi there,
> I'm also 70 kg naked and I do have the newer tune on 170mm model. I've been playing a lot with sag and volume spacers over the summer and I ended up with one orange token and ~55-56 psi, 8-10 clicks from open of low speed and 6-8 clicks from open of high speed
> 
> I did all my setting based on performances on a specific run in a lift assisted bike park. The run was pretty flow with men-made turns and small jumps (1 to 1.5 meters ). What I was trying to evaluate was comfort on smaller impacts (brake bumps), brake dive and bottom out on the jumps.
> ...


Good info. Thanks.


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## Rob-surf (Feb 4, 2004)

Something else I found out playing around with the fork is that using travel past the kashima logo seems to be “physiologically” difficult. Air volume spacers affect only partially (at least from zero spacers to 1 blue + 1 orange) the bottom out resistance, but they do affect quite a lot riding height and how the fork feel overall . High speed compression don’t affect bottoming out either but do affect fork behaviour from mid travel to kashima logo…
All in all I think it is a very good fork but it does require (and deserve) to be set up well…


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Rob-surf said:


> Air volume spacers affect only partially (at least from zero spacers to 1 blue + 1 orange) the bottom out resistance


Hmm they affect bottom out resistance, they change how progressive is the "spring" curve and affect directly on how hard it is to bottom out the fork.
Of course it is not the same as hydraulic bottom out resistance that some FIT cartridges (my 180 VAN had it) have.



Rob-surf said:


> High speed compression don't affect bottoming out either but do affect fork behaviour from mid travel to kashima logo&#8230;


Also HSC affects bottoming out, at least it should, I didn't test it. It affects compression throughout the whole travel. Or you didn't notice any difference on really hard hits?


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## Rob-surf (Feb 4, 2004)

Yeah I know the theory, but in practise the kind of hits that would bring you to, let’s say, 75% of your travel with no spacers would bring you very close to the same exact spot with one orange + one blue spacer. What will change sensibly (and that’s appreciable even for a wannabe like me) is the general feeling of the fork due to the different “spring” rate. At the beginning I was thinking that if the fork didn’t bottom out (or at least get close to bottoming out ) on what was a decent size jump/ drop it wasn’t well set up for my riding. Now I realized (better later that never ) that what is important is the general feeling and the kind of feed backs the fork is providing. 
With a harder spring rate (more air volume spacers) and same psi the fork stays higher in the travel and let the rider charge a lot more. 
Bottoming out, meaning bringing the o-ring well passed the kashima logo will happen rarely with or without volume spacers and will not happen unless you really hit something big (in an enduro frame of mind of course) or a square edge at full speed or if you drop to flat from a considerable height. 


The same apply to HSC, it is effective throughout the whole travel except for the last 2 -3 cm were (to my experience) it doesn’t make a big difference. To put it differently, if you find a jump/drop/square edge that brings your O-ring pass the kashima logo, try to hit it with HSC fully open and fully closed, my guess is that you will be surprised..


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

The rebound shims / piston won't be able to deal with such a wide progression range. Changing the air spring progression rate can be lop sided unless you are adjusting the HSR.. just adding air volume reducers can ruin the rebound tune, bottom out might be the worst time to have the fork rebounding too fast.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Snakes said:


> So I've contacted Fox and didn't get any useful information regarding tune of my 36.
> They won't change it under warranty, they've confirmed to me that it can be custom tuned if you pay them, that's basically all that I could get out of them. They didn't tell me with which tune the fork came...


Strange... I got my early build 2015 36 revalved by Fox at no charge. Got rid of the harshness. Tuned just right for my needs now.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Here's my current settings, based on riding all season with the revised valving that Fox did on my 36...

Running 1 blue and 1 orange spacer. Gave me the best balance of small bump sensitivity with enough bottom resistance for big hits, drop to flats, etc. Doesn't feel at all like a huge ramp up. Just feels right.

I'm running about 71 psi. I'm about 195 lbs (probably 210 geared up). Chart says should be at 78 psi. No way in hell.

LSC running 8 clicks from closed, HSC 9-10 clicks from closed. Rebound, around 15 clicks from closed if I remember. I like a fast returning fork... just enough to prevent top-out, but not pack down, or stay low in stroke on very steep technical descents.

With this setup, I rarely if ever bottom out. Only on the biggest drops to flat or the hardest hits do I get the o-ring up to the "Kashima" lettering. I'm usually about 20mm shy of that which is fine. I'm a firm (no pun intended  ) believer that the last 10-15% of travel should rarely get used - it should be reserved for those really big "oh ****" events.

People that use up all their travel during regular riding are just asking for trouble on the events where they would need the true full travel. I can't stand the over-the-bars feeling, so like to run things so I'm higher up in the travel. I don't set my fork via sag, like I would my rear shock. I set it via feel.


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## JohnnyVV (Feb 28, 2015)

Snakes said:


> So I've contacted Fox and didn't get any useful information regarding tune of my 36.
> They won't change it under warranty, they've confirmed to me that it can be custom tuned if you pay them, that's basically all that I could get out of them. They didn't tell me with which tune the fork came...


I'm pretty sure if you can confirm it's the old valve tuning, they'll take care of it for you. You have to give them the serial number, not just the 4-digit code for them to find out that information.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Rob-surf said:


> Yeah I know the theory, but in practise the kind of hits that would bring you to


Yeah, I thought that your findings are result of testing. Interesting.

It looks like that at least I'll also get updated compression valving for free. It will take some time before I will send the fork for service. Hopefully I will like it more than stock one (which is not bad in my opinion).


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

One way to get a idea what valving you have is wind the LSC right on, if the fork feels almost locked out to compress then its on the old valving.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Aren't there 3 versions of the valving? The first batch that came out with the firm valving similar to what the pros used, then some variant that had mixed up metric and standard shims, then this last one?

Pretty sure I've had all 3, as my first 36 has been back a few times. First got it, def had the stiff pro valving. Got it back after loose bushings were warrantied, and it felt WAY better at the same PSI (~65.) Sent it back a 2nd time for loose bushings and a creaking crown, and they must have put new valving in it again, b/c now I'm running 80psi and it's still softer than the other tunes. I'm actually having a hard time getting it to feel like I want.


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## pkitch (Sep 12, 2015)

Just got a set of 36 float 2015s 160mm and they feel great, however I don't notice any real difference between changes in LSC and HSC adjustment, rebound works fine, can anyone tell me if the adjustments are minor or should I be noticing a big change?


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

One click at a time you won't notice big changes. Subtle. Great for fine tuning. If you go 2-3 clicks at a time you should definitely be able to notice.


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## pkitch (Sep 12, 2015)

Hmm, iv gone opposite ends of the adjuster and think I can feel a difference but it's minimal, also I only have 24 clicks of LSC but the book says 26, should I be sending them back?


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

I wouldn't worry about the number of clicks (it's why one should always set # of clicks from full closed). If you don't think it's working right, you could at the very least call Fox service and explain what you feel. They may tell you to send it in.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

No free valving upgrade for EU customers apparently. At first I thought I will get it but I've received message from nearest service center that they've contacted Fox and they said that valving cannot be changed under warranty because fork is fully functional.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Deerhill said:


> The rebound shims / piston won't be able to deal with such a wide progression range. Changing the air spring progression rate can be lop sided unless you are adjusting the HSR.. just adding air volume reducers can ruin the rebound tune, bottom out might be the worst time to have the fork rebounding too fast.


Good point right here. Unloading at deep travel = eject


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## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

*negative air problems in 2015 Float RC2 36/160 (650b)*

As far as I can tell after speaking with 2 different Fox Service technicians, nobody at Fox seems to know why their forks have this well-known problem with negative air pressure increasing and migrating, and not re-equalizing with the positive chamber. I don't understand the whole thing, but I'm told there's only one port that allows air to move from the positive to negative chambers. I've now had two of these 2015 RC2's and both began doing the same thing after about 3 months of riding: the stanchions started not fully retracting when I am standing next to bike, compressing fork as far as possible and immediately lifting front tire off the ground. I tried "burping" with a ziptie between dust wipe and stanchion, but nothing there. I will next try removing the top cap and rod and slick honey it as directed and see if that fixes the problem, as well as do an oil change. One year ago, with my first 2015 RC2 (160/36 mm - 26") Fox had me send it in under warranty - they ended up sending me a brand new fork, but it was never clear what the problem was. I hope I don't have to send this one in. One of the Fox techs I talked to said he had recently asked a Fox engineer about this who also didn't know what causes this problem(!) Hard to believe as it's a well-known issue, and I'd like to know how to prevent it. Btw, I have not been riding at high altitudes. I have bottomed out a few times - but why should that, if it has something to do with this, be the cause?? thanks!


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## Grizzy (Sep 12, 2009)

sounds like the "softer" tune that was done (latest?). I had that and hated it, sent it in for original tune - awesome damping I guess at "pro" tune, but now I've got some weird spring related issues (negative pressure is WAY off) that started after changing to less spacers so.... 

I'm just going to send it to PUSH when I have to go for a conference next month.


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## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

*Update*

As I said, the ziptie burping yielded no air. So I just let all of the air out of the positive chamber, removed the top cap, pulled the shaft out - and heard a significant release of air. I then Slick Honeyed the shaft, put it back in, pumped it up to 60 psi, did the 3-5 mm compressing thing to equalize the neg and pos chambers, took the pressure back down to 40 psi, which is where I normally get ~22-25% sag (I weigh around 140 lb butt-nekked), and I'm happy to report ..._the fork is back to normal_! In other words, the stanchion fully extends when I'm off the bike pushing down on handlebars to compress fork and immediately lift front wheel off the ground - I can't physically pull the stanchion out any further, not even 1 mm. One more note: the first thing I do with these forks before ever riding is remove the volume spacers, and recommend all lightweights do the same!

Now why did this happen and can I prevent it from happening in the future? My hunch is that it happened after I recently caught some decent air and bottomed out - but why didn't the chambers re-equalize, and why does nobody at Fox seem to know the cause?! Air molecules move around 1000 mph at room temperature, making around 1 billion collisions/second , and that's at atmospheric pressure... was the port blocked by something?

I do love this fork - it's the first fork I've found that really works for a lightweight like me, and I've had a lot of them through the years.

Btw, it's on my magical Ibis Mojo HD3, which rocks and rolls on Bontrager XR4 (Team Issue) 27.5 x 2.35 tires, which are also amazing - I've already tried 4 different tires on my Ibis 741 carbon rims, and the XR4's corner like none other.


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## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

I used to have my forks and shocks PUSHed, at least 2 forks and 3 shocks - I always expected to get something better than a Fox factory tune, but finally decided about 4 years ago that I really couldn't tell the difference. I don't know which fork you have - 2015 or 2016 Float RC2 / 36 ? Can't imagine PUSHing could make much of a difference - it's already quite a decently engineered fork. It is imperative that the oil baths get changed according to Fox specs, which state that in normal conditions maximum 40 hours, and a lot of techs are saying only 30 hours (which is about every 2 - 3 weeks for me; it's a bit of a hassle, but I replace the dust wipes only maybe twice/year, and the foam rings can just be cleaned by squeezing the dirty oil out and re-soaked in 20w. It will feel quite different, the way it should - with only 10 mL of 20w in the air side, it doesn't take much dust at all to increase friction, or you could think of it as decreasing the amount of oil in the tiny volume between stanchion and bushings as the dirt particles get between the oil molecules - it's a very tight fit and friction quickly escalates. One other thing I've found, on a similar vein (and I've had two 2015 RC2's), is that it takes about 75 - 100 hours of riding before the fork feels fully plush - the bushings are pretty tight right out of the factory.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

I had my early 2015 36 pushed, they changed the valving to pretty much the current RC2 valving but with a heavier oil.

Jarad Graves had one suck down last year at a EWS round, I believe its down to air burping past either the main seal or the small equalisation rod seal. Then the difference in pressures prevents the fork extending back to its maximum travel. Its not rocket science and I believe fox technicians are talking BS to you as to not knowing the reason why it happens. Its the same on pikes, revelations etc.



> I wanted to go with what I know for the race, and the bike was designed around a 160mm fork, so that's what I'm running right now.'' No point rolling the dice, right? It's no secret that Jared ran into some fork troubles during the race, though, and it sounds like an extremely hard g-out caused air to pass from the positive to the negative chamber, thereby lowering the fork in its travel and softening the spring rate. Both Graves and FOX were adamant that it was the first issue like this that they've seen, and it highlights the importance of testing with riders like Jared who are pushing things to the absolute limit.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Grizzy said:


> sounds like the "softer" tune that was done (latest?). I had that and hated it, sent it in for original tune - awesome damping I guess at "pro" tune, but now I've got some weird spring related issues (negative pressure is WAY off) that started after changing to less spacers so....
> 
> I'm just going to send it to PUSH when I have to go for a conference next month.


The new tune came about due to what the pros like Graves were asking for:



> according to FOX, he raced with a production 36 Float 27.5 160 FIT RC2 fork on the front of his very not production SB6c, as well as a standard Float X out back. It isn't quite that clear, however, because while his fork and shock aren't utilizing any one-off parts that you can't find on your own, the valving inside of both has been tweaked slightly after much testing. Mark Jordan, FOX's Global Marketing Communications Manager, explained to me that tunes in both the 36 and the Float X are something that will be on production units in the near future, and are as simple as slight changes to the shim stacks that have come as a result of testing with riders like Graves.


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## hardboiled (Jun 10, 2006)

I had similar issues with the air spring -- I started a separate thread about it as I trouble-shot that you can search for if you're curious. ultimately I had to do a full service on the air spring to get things back to normal. Fox tech support was not much help for me either when I called and I too spoke to multiple people. hopefully it's not something that happens repeatedly, but it is a pretty simple procedure, and in my experience you really do need to stay on top of the lower leg service to keep the fork feeling good.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Yesterday I've done bath oil service on my about a month old 2015 Fox 36.
I couldn't believe, surprisingly there was no need for opening the fork, bath oil levels were perfectly fine. Fox gold oil was in both legs, thing is really incredibly sticky, it seems like a great lubrication oil. I hope that it will also work ok in cold temperatures.


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

Snakes said:


> Yesterday I've done bath oil service on my about a month old 2015 Fox 36.
> I couldn't believe, surprisingly there was no need for opening the fork, bath oil levels were perfectly fine. Fox gold oil was in both legs, thing is really incredibly sticky, it seems like a great lubrication oil. I hope that it will also work ok in cold temperatures.


Honestly, bath oil still in a fork after a month is not impressive..


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

Snakes said:


> I hope that it will also work ok in cold temperatures.


It seems like Fox actually released a tech notice about what bath oil to use in cold temps, and it isn't Gold.

..Rick Draper or someone else really smart like that will know.


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## BuickGN (Aug 25, 2008)

It's as simple as knowing the viscosity index or knowing the kinematic viscosity at two different points, usually 40c and 100c but the 100c standard doesn't apply as much to us. A look at these numbers and you can roughly calculate VI. 

This is why I run Redline 0w10. It works well in cold areas and has a high enough HTHSv that it protects great when hot. 

One oil I'm going to try is Toyota 0w20. It has an incredibly high VI, well past 200 which should make it good for any temps on planet earth. I would add moly to it if/when I use it. 

Basically the higher the VI, the less it thickens when cold and the less it thins when hot. The ideal oil would not change viscosity with temperature. Usually at the expense of a high VI is more viscosity index Improvers. VII in an engine is a problem. In a damper it's not good either. For the lowers, it's probably perfect.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Vespasianus said:


> Honestly, bath oil still in a fork after a month is not impressive..


For Fox fork it is.
I've opened my 2013 Van when I got it, before mounting it on the bike and it had less than half of the oil level. Well at least it wasn't totally dry...


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

Snakes said:


> For Fox fork it is.
> I've opened my 2013 Van when I got it, before mounting it on the bike and it had less than half of the oil level. Well at least it wasn't totally dry...


Yeah, but many forks come from the factory like that. But once you put bath oil in, it should be good for 3-6 months, right?


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## LMN (Sep 8, 2007)

Vespasianus said:


> Yeah, but many forks come from the factory like that. But once you put bath oil in, it should be good for 3-6 months, right?


I have never had a fork that was good for 3-6 months. Unless you count the winter month when I am not riding.

I don't need to change the oil in my fork every 40hrs of riding but it sure makes a difference in performance. This has been true of the 40 some odd forks I have had. All ways from the Mag 21, to Z1, to Judy (those were overhauled every ride), to fox.


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## pigdog (Feb 7, 2011)

2xTurner said:


> Anyone run across an issue with a top-out clunk (you can hear and feel)? Duplicated by pushing down about 20mm and pulling up. Rebound adjuster works fine (i.e. I can slow it down enough so it won't make the noise, but it's way too slow to ride that way). Just started doing it the last ride. Checked: leg bolts are tight, top caps are tight, no play in headset, wheel/axle are tight. Def from the fork. 27.5 160mm version non talas. Thx


What was the issue / fix?? Blown away by the fork, got a take off from a Mach 6 but the top-out clunk is there, almost feels like something is loose and you can feel it while riding. it's def the lowers in the last little bit of travel, easy to duplicate at a stand still....I get all the travel so,that's not an issue.


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

LMN said:


> I have never had a fork that was good for 3-6 months. Unless you count the winter month when I am not riding.
> 
> I don't need to change the oil in my fork every 40hrs of riding but it sure makes a difference in performance. This has been true of the 40 some odd forks I have had. All ways from the Mag 21, to Z1, to Judy (those were overhauled every ride), to fox.


40 + forks!?! please put me on your contact list when you're ready to move on to the next one. i love buying hardly used, well taken care of gear


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## Carrera911xc (Jul 25, 2006)

BuickGN said:


> This is why I run Redline 0w10. It works well in cold areas and has a high enough HTHSv that it protects great when hot.
> 
> One oil I'm going to try is Toyota 0w20. It has an incredibly high VI, well past 200 which should make it good for any temps on planet earth. I would add moly to it if/when I use it.


Generally speaking a 0w10 will have less VIIs than a 0w20, which will have less than a 0w40. A 0w10 oil is actually not intended for a very wide temperature range. In an internal combustion engine application the 0w when cold will flow quite well but then the 10w when hot will not protect very well. A 0w40 will have the same flow as the 0w10 when cold, but will not thin out as much at high temperatures as the 0w10.


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## BuickGN (Aug 25, 2008)

Carrera911xc said:


> Generally speaking a 0w10 will have less VIIs than a 0w20, which will have less than a 0w40. A 0w10 oil is actually not intended for a very wide temperature range. In an internal combustion engine application the 0w when cold will flow quite well but then the 10w when hot will not protect very well. A 0w40 will have the same flow as the 0w10 when cold, but will not thin out as much at high temperatures as the 0w10.


A 0w-40 will be thicker than a 0w-10 at most temperatures experienced in North America. Between Freezing and 220F, the 0w-10 will be considerably thinner.


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## Carrera911xc (Jul 25, 2006)

BuickGN said:


> A 0w-40 will be thicker than a 0w-10 at most temperatures experienced in North America. Between Freezing and 220F, the 0w-10 will be considerably thinner.


Looking into it, it appears I was misinformed. Not only does the 0w10 flow much easier at low temperature than the 0w40, but at high temperature it appears to have the same percentage decrease in viscosity as the 0w40 oil. Both experience approximately 80% reduction in viscosity from 40C to 100C. Certainly goes against the conventional wisdom that the wider the range on a multi grade oil, the less susceptible it is to thinning at high temperatures.


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## BuickGN (Aug 25, 2008)

Carrera911xc said:


> Looking into it, it appears I was misinformed. Not only does the 0w10 flow much easier at low temperature than the 0w40, but at high temperature it appears to have the same percentage decrease in viscosity as the 0w40 oil. Both experience approximately 80% reduction in viscosity from 40C to 100C. Certainly goes against the conventional wisdom that the wider the range on a multi grade oil, the less susceptible it is to thinning at high temperatures.


You were onto something. The less range between numbers, the less likely it is to sheer. Generally more VII is required for a wider range like a 0w-40 than for a 0w-20.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

Does "high temperature" really apply to bath oil inside a fork? How hot does that really get? 100, 130 degrees F on a long DH run? (Wildly guessing.) Probably ambient temperature during any given XC ride. Certainly nowhere near as hot as a piston engine!

I'm not even sure that the damper oil gets very hot. Due to being forced through orifices, though, I would expect it to be warmer than bath oil but still nothing like what motor oil sees inside an engine...


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## Dwdrums00 (Jul 8, 2006)

Delete


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## Dwdrums00 (Jul 8, 2006)

Yody said:


> Anyone get a creeky/sqeeky fork from dusty conditions? Mine keeps getting dry and you can hear the rubber seals rubbing against the stanchions. i've tried changing the oils and slick honey the seals, soak the rings, etc. After an hour or so of dusty riding I get this annoying squeek while pedaling. If I turn the bike upside down for a few minutes and ride again the noise goes away for awhile. Thinking of going with 10weight oil, wondering if the 20 weight is too clingy and attracting the dirt, and creating the squeek.


I am having the exact issue on my 2016 fox 36 RC2 and it is driving me crazy!!! The seals get really creeky/squeeky and small bump compliance goes completely out the window. I have pulled the lowers off multiple times to try and remedy the issue. The first time I soaked the foam rings in fox gold (per Fox's service instructions) and then applied slick honey to the inside of the seals. The second time I soaked the foam rings in fox float fluid (blue) and then applied slick honey to the inside of the seals. The issue still continues to happen.


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

I'm looking at getting a 2016 36 29er for my Tallboy LTc. I currently ride a 2013 34 140mm. What's the consensus here for the new TALAS over the FLOAT? I know in days of old the consensus was avoid the TALAS but it appears the newer version is better. For those that have ridden with one, has it remained supple or did it lose performance over time? Would you get a TALAS again?

I'm thinking of the 150/120 (perhaps adjusted to 150/130) or he 160/130 over the 150 FLOAT.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

TheNormsk said:


> I'm looking at getting a 2016 36 29er for my Tallboy LTc. I currently ride a 2013 34 140mm. What's the consensus here for the new TALAS over the FLOAT? I know in days of old the consensus was avoid the TALAS but it appears the newer version is better. For those that have ridden with one, has it remained supple or did it lose performance over time? Would you get a TALAS again?
> 
> I'm thinking of the 150/120 (perhaps adjusted to 150/130) or he 160/130 over the 150 FLOAT.







I know this is for an older one, but my understanding is that it hasn't change. The way they adjust travel is very different and doesn't affect performance. I have'n't had any issues with mine and it felt the same in 160 or 130 for me.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Stripped my 2016 36 RC2 damper down today. The HSC compression shim stack is the same as the later 2015 ones but the rebound shim stack is considerably different.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Rick Draper said:


> Stripped my 2016 36 RC2 damper down today. The HSC compression shim stack is the same as the later 2015 ones but the rebound shim stack is considerably different.


the late 2015 as in with the upgraded valving, or the first gen of the new rc2 verses the one with the updated valving?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Yody said:


> the late 2015 as in with the upgraded valving, or the first gen of the new rc2 verses the one with the updated valving?


Here you go:








It's a 2016 RC2 float fork and as you can see the rebound valving is quite a lot different to the valving fox usually uses in forks. It also uses a nut to retain the rebound piston v a bolt in most previous forks.

The compression side is the same but I fitted the Push HSC Spring and shims which is in the photo above.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

*need to refresh my rebound again..*



Rick Draper said:


> Here you go:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


From what I'm seeing in your photo, it looks like the stock stack height has increased (finally)..how thick are those HSR shims now?

Did that rebound check spring go lighter or heavier in these? (in the high speed compression housing)


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Got the measurements at home. I will put the sizes up tomorrow.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Rick Draper said:


> Got the measurements at home. I will put the sizes up tomorrow.


Cool. No rush, can't strip it down till next week anyway.


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## BuickGN (Aug 25, 2008)

ColinL said:


> Does "high temperature" really apply to bath oil inside a fork? How hot does that really get? 100, 130 degrees F on a long DH run? (Wildly guessing.) Probably ambient temperature during any given XC ride. Certainly nowhere near as hot as a piston engine!
> 
> I'm not even sure that the damper oil gets very hot. Due to being forced through orifices, though, I would expect it to be warmer than bath oil but still nothing like what motor oil sees inside an engine...


I agree, it doesn't get that hot. I've seen my CC Inline get about 20F above ambient. I mention that one because it is able to transfer more of the fluid's heat to the outside air, meaning when I shoot a temperature it's more representative to the fluid's temperature than the typical shock or fork damper. That's after a hard, abusive downhill run.

That's why many say to use the 40c viscosity rating.

What's important is viscosity index. The higher the number the less the oil thins when hot and thickens when cold. This is somewhat important over a run because when the viscosity varies less, the damper tuning changes less. Just a 20F increase in temperature can halve the viscosity of the oil which will mean a noticeable decrease in damping.

The HTHSv (High Temperature High Shear viscosity of the oil more accurately represents how it will react in the real world as it's being sheared from squeezing through small oil passageways. Some oils just "give up" and temporarily sheer down to a much lower viscosity as they are put under stress and then go back to their normal kinematic viscosity. I would go so far as to say the HTHSv is more important than the kinematic viscosity under some conditions. A high VI with a high HTHSv is desired but they usually don't go hand in hand.

Comparing it to motor oil you're right but the problem faced with motor oil (speaking only of temperature and viscosity) is the sump temps may only be 160F while being run easy while the oil is being temporarily exposed to 450-550F on the underside of a piston or in a turbocharger. It's got to work over a wider range of temps. When you add in the number one reason we have to change our oil which is combustion byproducts, a motor oil might be considered overkill or even a bvery good thing when used in a damper. It's got way more dispersants, a higher HTHSv, a higher TBN and TAN, etc, etc. The biggest downside I've seen in using a motor oil in a damper is motor oil seems to have a lower VI in many brands. I haven't looked at shock oils that closely but the ones I have seen have VIs up around 200 and higher. There are motor oils with this qualification out there but you have to look. Toyota makes a 20wt oil that's crazy high, around 260 VI, I believe. One reason I use Redline 0w10 is because it has a lower VI than most damper oils. I use a thinner than recommended oil because it's going to thicken more when cold but the end result is about the same running kinematic viscosity and it will protect better for many reasons.

Sorry if this looks like crap, I'm in a huge rush, typing as fast as I can and no time to read back over it. I'll clarify anything that needs clarifying when I get home. Sorry if I confused more than I helped.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Rick Draper said:


> Here you go:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


So what has changed vs the 2015? I had an early 2015 (July '15) but got the valving updates this spring by Fox. Plusher now. Is the 2016 tuning different yet?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

The rebound tuning is different, as is the piston mounting, they have made some slight changes. I will need to dig out the paper work that I wrote down the new rebound valving on.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Just notice it looks like you're changing the compression there... or do all those HSC shims fit now?


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## Acme54321 (Oct 8, 2003)

rscecil007 said:


> Aren't there 3 versions of the valving? The first batch that came out with the firm valving similar to what the pros used, then some variant that had mixed up metric and standard shims, then this last one?
> 
> Pretty sure I've had all 3, as my first 36 has been back a few times. First got it, def had the stiff pro valving. Got it back after loose bushings were warrantied, and it felt WAY better at the same PSI (~65.) Sent it back a 2nd time for loose bushings and a creaking crown, and they must have put new valving in it again, b/c now I'm running 80psi and it's still softer than the other tunes. I'm actually having a hard time getting it to feel like I want.


Glad to hear they took care of your bushing issue. Just sent mine back yesterday with the same problem.


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## nightnerd (Mar 5, 2007)

Just ordered one of those OEM 36 from Backcountry. Apparently they are early 2015 producion so the compresion shimstack could be the first one. Does anybody have the first and second stack configuration? Being quite lightweight, an already overdamped fork usually becomes over overdamped for me. It would be great to be able to modify the shim stack to the second iteration.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Deerhill said:


> Just notice it looks like you're changing the compression there... or do all those HSC shims fit now?


Above is the old compression stack and spring and below is the push stack and spring.

One other thing I'm 99% sure the rebound piston has also changed.


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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

Super tempted by that backcountry deal but pinch bolts and 15mm? seems like the worst of both worlds... some clarity on the updated dampening would be helpful.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

baltik said:


> Super tempted by that backcountry deal but pinch bolts and 15mm? seems like the worst of both worlds... some clarity on the updated dampening would be helpful.


It really doesn't take that much longer, if you want run the 20mm axle. If the added minute really bothers you, you could add the aftermarket QR that a company came out with.


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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

how would i go about running 20mm front axle on this?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

baltik said:


> how would i go about running 20mm front axle on this?


The 36 comes with both, unless you get the newer QR 36.

You use the shims below if you want 15mm otherwise it's 20mm.









Go a little past 1/2 down on this page, has all the info you need.

FORK- 2016 36mm | Bike Help Center | FOX


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Rick Draper said:


> One other thing I'm 99% sure the rebound piston has also changed.


The pre 2015 R piston was 3 dinker holes.. and there was not much material there that could be removed to enlarge.. the new R piston is easily flowing 2-3x more oil. Wondering how the rebound spring (in hsc housing) compares now.

edit..Got my fork back from fox and pulled a check, all fluid levels were correct.. I fill the gold lube with the fork horizontal, so it stays nicely above the bushings when installing the uppers and noticed fox has started doing this as well, nice. They used to just fill the lowers through the bottom ports


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## Ole (Feb 22, 2004)

baltik said:


> Super tempted by that backcountry deal but pinch bolts and 15mm? seems like the worst of both worlds... some clarity on the updated dampening would be helpful.


Pinch bolts will be stiffer, since the axle is now in effect a part of the lowers. But not very race friendly. I'm glad Fox still let us use 20mm.


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## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

It's a bit of a hassle to remove the front wheel compared to QR, and especially if you have to always remove it to put in car or on rack.
The silliest thing Fox says is to tighten the axle and pinch bolts to 2.15 Nm - basically a hair more than finger tight, & I've not seen a torque wrench available that goes that low, much less one that measures to the hundredths(!) of a Nm - just be careful tightening those pinch bolts, they will strip if overtightened, and follow the tightening instructions - first the left side, then compress fork a few times before tightening right side.
But the 2015 Float 36/160 RC2 is the best fork Fox has ever come out with, imho - I just paired it with a Fox X2 shock on a Mojo HD3 - the X2 takes a quantum leap above the CC DB InLine which I put on my HD when it first came out, and have another that the HD3 came with.


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## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

Does anyone know where this Fox tech notice is, if it exists, about cold weather bath oil? 

It's getting colder here now in SW NH, soon I'll be riding in 25 - 45 °F conditions, and I'm wondering if I should replace the 20w Gold in my 2015 Float RC2 36/160 legs with something else. 

thanks


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

rshalit said:


> they will strip if overtightened,


No they won't. They are threaded into a steel insert. Its far more likely you will crack the lowers if you over tighten them but then thats what the shim is fitted for to try and prevent that happening.


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## pigdog (Feb 7, 2011)

rshalit said:


> It's a bit of a hassle to remove the front wheel compared to QR, and especially if you have to always remove it to put in car or on rack.


Agreed. Here's one solution, knowing where it comes from it has to be solid:

Q36R Quick Release | FlowZone


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## ahmad22 (Nov 1, 2015)

Hey guys
I have this fork and i would like to know what is bushings part number ?
Is 803-00-135 right ?
thanks


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## MtnScrubb67 (Oct 5, 2015)

Was hoping for some advice or assistance. 

Purchased a 2015 Fox 36 rc2 160mm 650b at the end of Feb 2015. Took a week to arrive due to back-orders. I have used this fork for less than 20 hrs. Transferred fork to a new frame and started to adjust the low speed compression, after a few clicks the low speed compression knob will no longer turn. Removed the cap and bearings are in place, looks clean. I have taken it to my lbs and they said everything externally looks good and suggested I mail it into Fox for warranty repair. 

Anyone else have this problem?


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

Probably the only problem I haven't had...yet....Mine have had a myriad of issues. Not happy another nice weekend is going by with them in for warranty yet again.


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## artnshel (Jul 10, 2004)

Has anyone run a 27.5x3.0 tire like a Purgatory on a 2015 29" Fox 36 fork? It fits in a Pike but is within 4mm or rubbing on the side knobs.


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## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Has this been discussed yet? What do you guys think about flexible shims?

First Ride: Fox E16 Tune | BIKE Magazine

Also, has anyone seen any mudguards that integrate with the arch yet?


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## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

Junersun said:


> Has this been discussed yet? What do you guys think about flexible shims?
> 
> First Ride: Fox E16 Tune | BIKE Magazine
> 
> Also, has anyone seen any mudguards that integrate with the arch yet?


Uhhh...a shim? Yes, they come in different thickness which makes them more "flexible".

On another note, I think it's pathetic that a couple manufactures have drilled holes in the crown for an integrated fender but in a year + time they can't get one out the door. Mucky Nuts have really taken off, I'd imagine the demand for something cleaner is there.


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## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

DirtMerchantBicycles said:


> Uhhh...a shim? Yes, they come in different thickness which makes them more "flexible".
> 
> On another note, I think it's pathetic that a couple manufactures have drilled holes in the crown for an integrated fender but in a year + time they can't get one out the door. Mucky Nuts have really taken off, I'd imagine the demand for something cleaner is there.


I guess what I'm after is, has this has been done in the past and I'm just not aware of this, how has it affected the longevity of the fork. Just by observation, cycling shims like they are trying to do, I can see the shims needing attention which can result in poor performance over the long run?

Dirt, I completely agree. I have been waiting two season for a cleaner setup. luckily during the downpour sessions, I tend to lean towards my HT where I'm equipped with mudhugger fenders.


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## croakies (Mar 4, 2011)

Thin flexible shims have been in all decent dampers in all industries (cars, motorcycles etc.) for a while. Nothing new. Damper that do not use shims are typically only found on the very low end. 

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk


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## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

gotcha. I knew shims were used to control oil flow, flexible ones though were new to me. Look forward to hearing about it's benefits/flaws as it becomes available and gets used.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Junersun said:


> gotcha. I knew shims were used to control oil flow, flexible ones though were new to me. Look forward to hearing about it's benefits/flaws as it becomes available and gets used.


Shims have to be flexible as thats how they let oil flow past the piston. Thats how it works in most dampers. Its no different really to the early 2015 shim stack on the 36 and the later stack. One was a straight stack that barely flexed and the newer one is a lot more flexible.


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## mattwright999 (Jun 25, 2014)

Anyone know what brake adaptor I need to run a 200mm sram center line rotor?? I believe the post mounts are 180.

I can only seem to find adaptors for 203 rotors.


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

mattwright999 said:


> Anyone know what brake adaptor I need to run a 200mm sram center line rotor?? I believe the post mounts are 180.
> 
> I can only seem to find adaptors for 203 rotors.


Hope 183 to post mount or Fox 180 to 200. I'm using the Hope one, top pic and the Fox is the second pic. 200/203 u can use either one.


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## Markiel (Mar 26, 2015)

You need a +20 mm adaptor. I think those are labeled a 180 mm front adaptor, i.e. normally converts a 160 mm post mount to 180 mm.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

Any of you with a 2015 Fox 36 RC2 ever found there's some knocking sound, maybe during top out while riding?? Not sure if it's coming from the air side or damper side. I can't replicate the sound while simply pushing up and down on the fork... it only happens while riding. Headset is tight.


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## pdqmach26 (Jul 24, 2011)

I would like to know if anyone has substituted the Fox 20wt Gold oil? I use Mobil One 0/30 on my Pike's with good results. Also the Fox manual calls for 30cc of oil on the damper side when at 160mm of travel. I am reducing the travel to 140mm, should the oil also be reduced and how much?
Thanks


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

In 2016 the oil bath volume is 30cc in the damper side for all RC2 models of 36.


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## artishouk (Jan 28, 2014)

Deerhill said:


> Cool. No rush, can't strip it down till next week anyway.


HI, I am interested in those too. I just bought a second hand 2015 36 and would like to update the shining to 2016´s specs...
If you could post the details, we´ll much appreciate it!


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## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

Christopher Robin said:


> Any of you with a 2015 Fox 36 RC2 ever found there's some knocking sound, maybe during top out while riding?? Not sure if it's coming from the air side or damper side. I can't replicate the sound while simply pushing up and down on the fork... it only happens while riding. Headset is tight.


Did you solve the problem? I'm having a knocking sound in squared hits too and I've already checked the headset, done the zip trick..and it doesn't seem to be any bushing play...


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

No not yet. Can't even tell if it's the air spring or damper. But what you describe is exactly what I'm feeling. 

Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

rshalit said:


> Ithey will strip if overtightened,.


The bolt head will snap. I know because a LBS did it and then blamed me for damaging my $1000 fork. Those bolts with shipping are expensive. Another LBS use a hex driver on my 20mm axle and deformed the 5mm Allen slot.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## UberPatu (Feb 29, 2012)

ban said:


> Did you solve the problem? I'm having a knocking sound in squared hits too and I've already checked the headset, done the zip trick..and it doesn't seem to be any bushing play...


I spent months trying to work out what was going on with a similar issue, and seem to have finally fixed it. I ended up using a shotgun approach so I can't say for sure what the issue was, but I did the following all at once before it went away:
- Dropped the lowers to relieve pressure and replaced the oil
- Flipped the fork upside down for 30 minutes to make sure the foam ring was soaked
- Cleaned up some burrs on the upper surface of the crown race (it got garked up when I angrily flipped it over, after the bike shop installed it upside down)
- Reworked the lengths of the brake lines while installing new brakes (not likely part of the fix, but who knows? Perhaps it was cables rattling)

I think its most likely that my issue was the crown race. I couldn't feel any movement at the headset whilst assembled, but with just the bearing sitting on the race I could feel a little movement, almost like bearing play of 0.5mm. Cleaning up the burrs with sandpaper got rid of the play. Perhaps others might have some dust along the interface between the bearing and race to recreate what I had?


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## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

thank for the advice, I'll have a look at the race crown as cables and air pressure in the lowers have been already checked!


UberPatu said:


> I spent months trying to work out what was going on with a similar issue, and seem to have finally fixed it. I ended up using a shotgun approach so I can't say for sure what the issue was, but I did the following all at once before it went away:
> - Dropped the lowers to relieve pressure and replaced the oil
> - Flipped the fork upside down for 30 minutes to make sure the foam ring was soaked
> - Cleaned up some burrs on the upper surface of the crown race (it got garked up when I angrily flipped it over, after the bike shop installed it upside down)
> ...


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

artishouk said:


> HI, I am interested in those too. I just bought a second hand 2015 36 and would like to update the shining to 2016´s specs...
> If you could post the details, we´ll much appreciate it!


Haven't had time to take a look, need to strip down the air spring though.. maybe Rick Draper has posted the rebound?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Deerhill said:


> Haven't had time to take a look, need to strip down the air spring though.. maybe Rick Draper has posted the rebound?


Here you go:










It uses a new rebound piston, valving, nut and shaft stud. I am unsure if other parts differ.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Well there you go. Looks like there's a check valve in LSR now, where it used to be "free bleed" if I am remembering correctly. Wonder if the piston glide ring / bushing has been updated.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

ban said:


> thank for the advice, I'll have a look at the race crown as cables and air pressure in the lowers have been already checked!


Yeah I went for a ride and I'm fairly sure it's not the crown race for me. If I push down on the fork slowly, it feels fine. If I push down hard and fast, I'll feel the knock. I'm about 90% sure it's from the air spring side but I'm just not sure if it's on the compression stroke or rebound.

I also have to mess with the volume spacers. The single blue one kept me from getting full travel. Without no spacers, I get real close but find the fork a little too linear. I almost need to cut one in half.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

Regarding the knocking sound:

I spoke to Fox tech support and while they always suggest to drop the fork off for service, but one tip they gave was remove the RC2 damper to see if I could recreate the knocking noise to isolate which side has the problem... and I couldn't! So looks like the air side is fine and the knocking is coming from the damper itself, just in case people were experiencing the same thing.


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## BC (Jan 11, 2006)

Christopher Robin said:


> Any of you with a 2015 Fox 36 RC2 ever found there's some knocking sound, maybe during top out while riding?? Not sure if it's coming from the air side or damper side. I can't replicate the sound while simply pushing up and down on the fork... it only happens while riding. Headset is tight.


I just had the same problem on my new 36 VAN 180. The ultra buttery smooth feeling went away and started getting a rebound knock. Not sure of the damper similarity between the coli and air fork, but When I pulled the fit cartridge out, the bladder on the fit cart. was collapsed/ sucked into the main shaft with no oil in it. This happened about 3 months after the fork was new. Fox Warranty took care of it.


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## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

Christoper, regarding the knocking noise, I found another thread which led me to this video....doing the same as in the video, I can reproduce the noise..and reading the comments on the video, they say it may be a valve in the air spring side....my 36 is going this week to Fox to check it...


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## pplucena (Dec 25, 2010)

Yes. Purgatory 27.5/3.0" fits ok on 29" fork.
I had same problem with high pressure in negative chamber. The fork was 160mm and is now just 130 with 60 PSI, and 145 with 100 PSI.
The fork is completely compressed without air in positive chamber.
Tomorrow I will try to solve it removing the air chamber spacer and regreasing the system.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

ban said:


> Christoper, regarding the knocking noise, I found another thread which led me to this video....doing the same as in the video, I can reproduce the noise..and reading the comments on the video, they say it may be a valve in the air spring side....my 36 is going this week to Fox to check it...


Yeah I saw that but my air spring doesn't make that noise with the damper out of the fork. So it's something banging inside the damper for me.

Edit. FYI, the early 36s had an older check valve in the damper. I just had it rebuilt and it was upgraded to the newer one.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

What is the difference between 160 and 170/180 version, which parts are different? Only spring assembly or also sliders?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Snakes said:


> What is the difference between 160 and 170/180 version, which parts are different? Only spring assembly or also sliders?


The damper is different. The 160mm fork uses a shorter damper tube and rebound rod iirc.


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## LinkyPinky87 (Aug 19, 2015)

Rick Draper said:


> The damper is different. The 160mm fork uses a shorter damper tube and rebound rod iirc.


Do you know which fork is in the 2016 Remedy?

Im having a guess being it the 160mm version with travel reduced to 140?


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I finally got around to changing my air volume spacers. 

I have been running one blue, now added an orange. Maybe a bit much. -/ might go to 2 blues. 

Travel set at 150mm on a SC TB LTc. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Did anyone else notice some kind of play if you are gently tapping the floor with the wheel? Just lifting it about a centimeter in the air and touching the floor.
Also a little play can be felt between sliders and lower leg if bike is pushed fore and aft with front brake applied. I've already claimed a warranty because of this play. They've replaced the bushings, but after a few rides play is here again.

I am not sure if this is something that is "normal" or I should bother LBS again and again. Could be the problem in bad tolerances in lower legs bushing seats? 
I've tried a few other 36 and one has the same play, but two didn't have it. I didn't notice this play in 2013 Van 36 that was replaced with this new one.


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## dy3ecs (Nov 2, 2011)

I also noticed that (while doing the brake applied and pushing the bike fore and aft) with my 2015 Fox 36 Talas RC2. I also noticed that with an older Talas (not sure if it is a 2012 or 2013 model). I just assumed it is "normal" when I got same results with other 140-160mm travel fork.


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

Snakes said:


> Did anyone else notice some kind of play if you are gently tapping the floor with the wheel? Just lifting it about a centimeter in the air and touching the floor.


Yes. I've notice this.



Snakes said:


> Also a little play can be felt between sliders and lower leg if bike is pushed fore and aft with front brake applied. I've already claimed a warranty because of this play. They've replaced the bushings, but after a few rides play is here again.
> 
> I am not sure if this is something that is "normal" or I should bother LBS again and again. Could be the problem in bad tolerances in lower legs bushing seats?
> I've tried a few other 36 and one has the same play, but two didn't have it. I didn't notice this play in 2013 Van 36 that was replaced with this new one.


Try this again, but without holding the brakes, but rather with the front wheel chocked against the wall/rock/tree. I have found what I thought was headset or fork play is often brake pads moving in the caliper.


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I did an oil change a few days back. When I let the air out of the air spring the fork sucked down. After separating the lowers the shaft sucked fully into the stanchion tube. I had to re-presurize the positive spring a couple times. After much 'messing' with it I got the negative spring to equalize. I'm still not sure what caused this.

Any thoughts?


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## MntnMan (Feb 1, 2008)

Reamer, it sounds like the seal on your air piston let air from the pos side to the neg side for whatever reason, or the air shaft seals at the bottom of the uppers are going bad and passed air from the lowers to the neg side uppers.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

You let the air out of the fork too quickly.


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## MntnMan (Feb 1, 2008)

FYI, I pulled apart a brand new OEM 34 to extend the travel and found the dust wipers completely bone dry. Reassembly with some SlickHunny vastly improved the small bump sensitivity.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

reamer41 said:


> Try this again, but without holding the brakes, but rather with the front wheel chocked against the wall/rock/tree. I have found what I thought was headset or fork play is often brake pads moving in the caliper.


Yeah, I know that brake pads usually have some play. But I can notice play by putting finger between stanchions and arch, it is definitely coming from the fork.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

Snakes said:


> Yeah, I know that brake pads usually have some play. But I can notice play by putting finger between stanchions and arch, it is definitely coming from the fork.


I've never had play in the fork itself and had many fox forks, even with forks with badly worn stanchions. If you're sure it not the pads moving or crown not cinched down, I'd be getting that looked at.


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

Snakes said:


> Yeah, I know that brake pads usually have some play. But I can notice play by putting finger between stanchions and arch, it is definitely coming from the fork.


I was having the same problem with my Fox 36 29'er. It was REALLY loose. It felt dangerous to ride loose. Turned out that it didn't have lower bushings installed. Fixed under warranty. When I got it back I had installed new XTR brakes before using the fork and it felt like it was still loose (but way so) with the front brake on, like a loose headset would feel. It turned out to be the pads moving in the caliper as already mentioned. Try squeezing the front brake really hard and check the fork.
Also if you try feeling around the dust seal with your fingers like you are on another fork you will notice some movement.


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

Rick Draper said:


> You let the air out of the fork too quickly.


Ok. So just short presses on the shearer valve?

How does the positive and negative air equalize? I know the 'pump it up the depress 3-5mm several times' routine, but by what channel does the air pressure equalize?

I noticed what looked like a bunch of slick honey or other grease on the top of the piston -- could this be preventing equalization?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## hardboiled (Jun 10, 2006)

it equalizes via the air transfer shaft. when you remove the air top cap, you'll see the little cutout towards the bottom of the shaft. fox says to apply slick honey to the shaft, but make sure the cutout isn't clogged with grease.


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## sammieandkrisbey (Apr 16, 2014)

Has anyone here experienced creaking from a 2016 Fox Float 36 fork? When I compress the fork without turning the handlebar, I can hear creaking. I've also been noticing lately that my fork has been bottoming out (oring is up to the crown on 3-4ft drops). Running 70 psi in OPEN mode (my weight is 150 pounds).


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

sammieandkrisbey said:


> Has anyone here experienced creaking from a 2016 Fox Float 36 fork? When I compress the fork without turning the handlebar, I can hear creaking. I've also been noticing lately that my fork has been bottoming out (oring is up to the crown on 3-4ft drops). Running 70 psi in OPEN mode (my weight is 150 pounds).


I had that briefly, but it seems to have went way. I'm 145, running 60 psi, 3 clicks HSC from full open, and about halfway on LSC (13 clicks), and about 4 clicks from full open rebound. I've used full travel, but haven't experienced any bottom out shock/clunk. Didn't think the creak was from the fork cause it came off another bike that didn't creak up front. Got a Pike on another bike that I got a new sealhead on and I prefer riding on the bike with the 36 since the Pike seems more springy and less fluid.


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## sammieandkrisbey (Apr 16, 2014)

Varaxis said:


> I had that briefly, but it seems to have went way. I'm 145, running 60 psi, 3 clicks HSC from full open, and about halfway on LSC (13 clicks), and about 4 clicks from full open rebound. I've used full travel, but haven't experienced any bottom out shock/clunk. Didn't think the creak was from the fork cause it came off another bike that didn't creak up front.


My 36 only has rebound control at the bottom right leg, which I believe is 9 turns out. The bottoming out doesn't bother me but the creak drives me nuts.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

sammieandkrisbey said:


> My 36 only has rebound control at the bottom right leg, which I believe is 9 turns out. The bottoming out doesn't bother me but the creak drives me nuts.


Maybe the sound of my ripley's cables clacking above the shock distract me from the fork. I thought it was the dropper cable rubbing on my steerer making the light creaking sound. Bike did sound a bit rough today after riding it through some chunky stuff on the ride before.


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## sammieandkrisbey (Apr 16, 2014)

My fork is being sent in for service next Monday. Will I need a new star nut, or is that already installed? Also, will I need to cut the steerer tube or will it be at the appropriate length?


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Did u ask fox? It depends what they do with the fork.


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## chrisingrassia (Aug 13, 2012)

Asking an honest question of you all here: 
Right this very minute, if you had the money to buy either one, would you go for the $1100 2016 Fox 36 or the discounted $750 2015 Fox 36? 

Seems like 2015 was a huge revelation in upgrades and changes compared to all previous Fox years, but was the 2015-to-2016 Fox 36 really a jump big enough? I've been riding Marzocchi for years, but looking to shift away towards a 36 in the coming months. Can't decide if I should buy 2015 now, or just wait until the end of the year to pick up a 2016....


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

chrisingrassia said:


> Asking an honest question of you all here:
> Right this very minute, if you had the money to buy either one, would you go for the $1100 2016 Fox 36 or the discounted $750 2015 Fox 36?
> 
> Seems like 2015 was a huge revelation in upgrades and changes compared to all previous Fox years, but was the 2015-to-2016 Fox 36 really a jump big enough? I've been riding Marzocchi for years, but looking to shift away towards a 36 in the coming months. Can't decide if I should buy 2015 now, or just wait until the end of the year to pick up a 2016....


I would contact bikerbob about a new 2016 Fox Talas.


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## chrisingrassia (Aug 13, 2012)

TwoTone said:


> I would contact bikerbob about a new 2016 Fox Talas.


No idea who that is. 
I can't find any info on the web that details any changes from the 2015 to 2016 models. Unless I suck at Google searching....


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## MntnMan (Feb 1, 2008)

chrisingrassia said:


> No idea who that is.
> I can't find any info on the web that details any changes from the 2015 to 2016 models. Unless I suck at Google searching....


http://forums.mtbr.com/where-best-deals/excellent-deal-service-buildkit-bikerbob-com-758364.html


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## MntnMan (Feb 1, 2008)

chrisingrassia said:


> No idea who that is.
> I can't find any info on the web that details any changes from the 2015 to 2016 models. Unless I suck at Google searching....


Bold New Graphics for 2016, and the GX drivetrain option. You suck at google searching. 

From Bike Radar: "We rode the 2015 Nomad C. For 2016 the bike is almost identical but comes with SRAM's cheaper GX 11-speed transmission, trimming its pricetag."


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## chrisingrassia (Aug 13, 2012)

MntnMan said:


> Bold New Graphics for 2016, and the GX drivetrain option. You suck at google searching.
> 
> From Bike Radar: "We rode the 2015 Nomad C. For 2016 the bike is almost identical but comes with SRAM's cheaper GX 11-speed transmission, trimming its pricetag."


I don't know how to "like" this post. Funny.

But the sarcasm effort tells me 2015 to 2016 saw no changes.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

Presumably your asking about the fork (so not thinking about drive chain) and presumably your comparing RC2 between years (as the FIT4 is clearly different). The only difference is the decals. However, early batches of the 2015 had weird valving tunes making it very hard (impossible) to find the sweet spot on them. fox issued a tech alert to upgrade these. they do it free. My opinion, get the 2015 RC2 but check the valving.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

2015 to 2016 saw some other changes, a new high flow rebound piston and stud, it's backwards compatible.


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## chrisingrassia (Aug 13, 2012)

Snozz said:


> Presumably your asking about the fork (so not thinking about drive chain) and presumably your comparing RC2 between years (as the FIT4 is clearly different). The only difference is the decals. However, early batches of the 2015 had weird valving tunes making it very hard (impossible) to find the sweet spot on them. fox issued a tech alert to upgrade these. they do it free. My opinion, get the 2015 RC2 but check the valving.


MntnMan was just being sarcastic. He was joking that none of my searches found any differences between the 2015 and 2016 models....he found something about changes between the 2015 and 2016 Nomads. I was referring to just to Fox 36, but I got the joke .

I'm interested in the TALAS actually. Looks like I can get 120-160mm in the 2015 model, but only 130-160 in the 2016 model. I use the travel adjust feature a lot on my Marzocchi, so I'm open to either model year. but I can't seem to find exactly what changed in the TALAS models between '15 and '16.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Snakes said:


> Yeah, I know that brake pads usually have some play. But I can notice play by putting finger between stanchions and arch, it is definitely coming from the fork.


My 20mm axle pinch bolts come loose on these...a LOT...constantly having to check/tighten the brake side. Alternate back and forth on the bars, push down one side while pulling up the other side, can sound similar to bushing knock

Bushing had to be replaced at first, but that knock can be easily heard by push/pulling the arch/stanchion


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## TheUnknownRider (Oct 2, 2015)

Pretty sure the Talas are all 160/130 (according to Fox it's 30mm difference from them, OE could possibly be different). You're likely seeing 160/120 listed inaccurately in sales ads etc.

Supposedly the short travel setting can reduced another 10mm (120) by removing an internal spacer. I came here to see/ask if anyone has the information on doing this? I have a 2015 36 Talas 27.5 RC2 160/130.

Thanks.



chrisingrassia said:


> MntnMan was just being sarcastic. He was joking that none of my searches found any differences between the 2015 and 2016 models....he found something about changes between the 2015 and 2016 Nomads. I was referring to just to Fox 36, but I got the joke .
> 
> I'm interested in the TALAS actually. Looks like I can get 120-160mm in the 2015 model, but only 130-160 in the 2016 model. I use the travel adjust feature a lot on my Marzocchi, so I'm open to either model year. but I can't seem to find exactly what changed in the TALAS models between '15 and '16.


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## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Anyone here got a blue volume spacer they could mail me? Maybe I can PayPal you a couple bucks for it... I can't find them anywhere and my lbs is about a month out before making a big fox order...


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## Zatoichi (Oct 25, 2014)

Junersun said:


> Anyone here got a blue volume spacer they could mail me? Maybe I can PayPal you a couple bucks for it... I can't find them anywhere and my lbs is about a month out before making a big fox order...


You may have already found these online, but I thought that I'd post this just in case...

The only place that I could find one online, in the US, was at Arts Cyclery:
Fox Float 36 Air Volume Spacer Blue 7.6cc

They've also have the orange 10.8cc spacer:
Fox Float 36 Air Volume Spacer Orange 10.8cc

Of course, shipping may be more than you wanted to pay. But shipping is free on orders totaling $50 or more. I usually combine small items like this with a fork wiper kit, spare chain, chain lube or Stan's. Things that you know that you'll need within a few months.

Hope this helps..


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## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Thanks! I tried googling and nothing came up. I'll snag some from there


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## TheUnknownRider (Oct 2, 2015)

I'm also a bit confused because the Fox website doesn't appear to have any drawing parts or other detailed tech info listed for the 2015+ 36 160/130 Talas. Only the 2014 version or the 2015+ longer 170 - 180 Talas fork. Seems a bit fubar unless it's just my own lack of understanding ...



TheUnknownRider said:


> Pretty sure the Talas are all 160/130 (according to Fox it's 30mm difference from them, OE could possibly be different). You're likely seeing 160/120 listed inaccurately in sales ads etc.
> 
> Supposedly the short travel setting can reduced another 10mm (120) by removing an internal spacer. I came here to see/ask if anyone has the information on doing this? I have a 2015 36 Talas 27.5 RC2 160/130.
> 
> Thanks.


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## chrisingrassia (Aug 13, 2012)

Does anyone have a quick answer as to why the 2016 36 with FIT4 damper can't come in a 20mm axle option? Or at least the 15/20 convertible option? In looking at these pictures, I can't understand why it doesn't......why bother with the tooling cost to manufacture two different types of lowers just because of the internal damper?

Fox 36 TALAS RC2 15/20mm...








Fox 36 TALAS FIT4 15mm...


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## Muttonchops (Jul 16, 2004)

Over the weekend - I threw on a spare OEM 2015 36 I had snagged off Backcountry.com (replaced the existing '15 36 that developed a creak in the crowns). 

@ 100 psi I was still getting 2inches of sag and the fork felt totally linear with a rapid top out. I normally run 75 - 80 psi.

Recalled the "zip tie stanchion seal burp trick" and thought wtf might as well give it a go. Well holy cow...heard a hissing sound as the air escaped. 

Lowered psi to 80 and had a fantastic ride.

Thanks team.


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## chrisingrassia (Aug 13, 2012)

Muttonchops said:


> Over the weekend - I threw on a spare OEM 2015 36 I had snagged off Backcountry.com (replaced the existing '15 36 that developed a creak in the crowns).
> 
> @ 100 psi I was still getting 2inches of sag and the fork felt totally linear with a rapid top out. I normally run 75 - 80 psi.
> 
> ...


not sure I follow this one. Can you post a pic of what you did?


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## MntnMan (Feb 1, 2008)

He pushed a ziptie between the dust seal and the stanchion to relieve excess pressure in the lower leg.


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## chrisingrassia (Aug 13, 2012)

I googled that real quick, and this was something to do with the Pike?


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## Muttonchops (Jul 16, 2004)

Sorry for being vague...but yes...I did what MntnMan mentioned. Take the smallest zip tie and slide it between the stanchion and wiper...you will hear a hissing sound if it releases air.

Edit: Read back in this forum - there is quite a bit of mention on the topic

Surprised the fox rep never mentioned it to me - instead telling me to ignore the PSI and just pump it up and get the sag correct. Regardless it felt shite...super linear with a quick ramp up (2 1/2 volume spacers)

Good luck.


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## chrisingrassia (Aug 13, 2012)

TheUnknownRider said:


> I have a 2015 36 Talas 27.5 RC2 160/130.
> 
> Thanks.


I just bought the exact same fork you have. Do you possibly have any links that show exactly how to service this fork? I just installed the fork yesterday, but have read that Fox sometimes ships their forks without oil and I want to make sure I've got oil in there before I go ride 

**edit: scratch that, just scoured the site and found this FORK- 2015 36 FLOAT 140mm-180mm and TALAS (up to 160mm) | Bike Help Center | FOX


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## Grizzy (Sep 12, 2009)

If you ride it enough with air trapped it will burp some oil and look like your seals blew. 

The negative spring being too small (mentioned in "Fox 36 Harsh" thread) makes a lot of sense. I had mine re-tuned from a soft tune which was far too vague to the original tune the pros have. On tha original it's definitely rough. The HSC seems to have no effect on small bump compliance, but significant effect on true hard hits (like 4' to flat with no transition). As rickdraper told me when I thought he was nuts - most of the usable damping is going through the LSC so increase LSC and lose small bump sensitivity. 

At 180lbs I'm running 55psi with 3 largespacers to get initial compliance softer. It's definitely a compromise. As others have said - when pinned its great. Anything under 80-90% (most riding!) it's a bit too sporty. 

It's hard to find a true winner in the fork game right now. Fox chassis is awesome, but air spring and WTF damper tunes hold it back. Pike air spring is fantastic (haven't ridden lyrik) but I like a fair amount of LSC and the charger couples LSC and HSC so the dampers an issue as well as some pogo rebound on square edge repetitive hits (too little HSR?). 

I guess there's DVO or BOS. I have 0 experience with them and not sure about servicing...


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## chrisingrassia (Aug 13, 2012)

I'm confused on where this trapped air is coming from? It lies between the foam ring and the dust wiper?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Grizzy said:


> If you ride it enough with air trapped it will burp some oil and look like your seals blew.
> 
> The negative spring being too small (mentioned in "Fox 36 Harsh" thread) makes a lot of sense. I had mine re-tuned from a soft tune which was far too vague to the original tune the pros have. On tha original it's definitely rough. The HSC seems to have no effect on small bump compliance, but significant effect on true hard hits (like 4' to flat with no transition). As rickdraper told me when I thought he was nuts - most of the usable damping is going through the LSC so increase LSC and lose small bump sensitivity.
> 
> ...


The new Lyrik real,y is something else. I am having mine fitted with the fast suspension high and low speed compression modifications and then I think I will have th ultimate fork. It's not quite as stiff as the 36 but has bucket loads less stiction, more supple off the top and more controlled in its travel. I love it.



chrisingrassia said:


> I'm confused on where this trapped air is coming from? It lies between the foam ring and the dust wiper?


You are on a talas the air trapping is less of a issue. On the talas you have a big volume for air in the lowers on each side in the lowers. On a float yu have a large volume in the damper side but not so on the float side.


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## chrisingrassia (Aug 13, 2012)

Cool, cheers. 
You guys know of an easy way to find out if my new fork got shipped ready-to-ride or if it came without lube/oil in it? I've read several threads that says FOX ships forks with no oil. 

Would hate to go through the whole process and break it open to discover I didn't need to.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

No easy way, you have to crack them open. I will say all 3 pairs of 36 I have had have all had resonable amounts of fluid in the lowers.


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## Domm Power (Dec 10, 2012)

Hi Rick, great post, just wanted to ask which company is supplying/fitting the Fast suspension upgrade? Would be interesting to hear what you think of the new Lyrik/Fast fork.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

chrisingrassia said:


> Cool, cheers.
> You guys know of an easy way to find out if my new fork got shipped ready-to-ride or if it came without lube/oil in it? I've read several threads that says FOX ships forks with no oil.
> 
> Would hate to go through the whole process and break it open to discover I didn't need to.





Rick Draper said:


> No easy way, you have to crack them open. I will say all 3 pairs of 36 I have had have all had resonable amounts of fluid in the lowers.


Same here, they put the bath oil for the lowers in the proper spot (above the bushings). If you just knock the shafts in the lowers to chech fluids, without taking the lowers off, they might seem like they're dry.


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## chrisingrassia (Aug 13, 2012)

Deerhill said:


> If you just knock the shafts in the lowers to chech fluids, without taking the lowers off, they might seem like they're dry.


I don't think I understand this. Knock the shafts?


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

chrisingrassia said:


> I don't think I understand this. Knock the shafts?


The two footnuts at the bottom fix the damper and spring shafts to the lowers...sorry, can't remember if that's what fox calls them, anyway you need to pull the lowers off if you want to check fluid levels.


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

Grizzy said:


> If you ride it enough with air trapped it will burp some oil and look like your seals blew.
> 
> The negative spring being too small (mentioned in "Fox 36 Harsh" thread) makes a lot of sense. I had mine re-tuned from a soft tune which was far too vague to the original tune the pros have. On tha original it's definitely rough. The HSC seems to have no effect on small bump compliance, but significant effect on true hard hits (like 4' to flat with no transition). As rickdraper told me when I thought he was nuts - most of the usable damping is going through the LSC so increase LSC and lose small bump sensitivity.
> 
> ...


Honestly, you want a Mattoc or a Stage. Both provide what you are looking for.


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## danny.mendes (Mar 11, 2013)

I have a new Fox 36 RC2 170mm fork on my new Nomad 3. The fork feels pretty good on big hits and drops and I am using all of the travel without bottoming out, but feels kind of harsh on small bumps and chatter. I am a light rider (145 geared up) and my setup is:

45 psi
one volume spacer - the one that comes stock
HSC - Open all the way
LSC - Open all the way
R - 15 clicks out from closed

Does it sound like I need a custom tune for my weight? I have 3 rides on it and it feels pretty smooth when compressing the fork, does it take more rides to fully break it in?


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## LMN (Sep 8, 2007)

danny.mendes said:


> I have a new Fox 36 RC2 170mm fork on my new Nomad 3. The fork feels pretty good on big hits and drops and I am using all of the travel without bottoming out, but feels kind of harsh on small bumps and chatter. I am a light rider (145 geared up) and my setup is:
> 
> 45 psi (20% sag).
> one volume spacer - the one that comes stock
> ...


Similar weight to you. My set-up:

46 psi:
Volume Spacers: as many as I could fit in there.
HSC: 14 clicks from closed.
LSC: 12 clicks from closed.
R- 17 clicks out from closed.

Fork works really well for me with this set-up. It is a little harsh on small bumps and chatter at lower speed but once the speed is up the fork comes to life.


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## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

LMN said:


> Similar weight to you. My set-up:
> 
> 46 psi:
> Volume Spacers: as many as I could fit in there.
> ...


I'm about 145 geared up as well. 
47 psi (digital gauge)
No volume spacers
Rebound = 4 from full fast
HSC = 5 from full open
LSC = 4 from full open
Riding is mostly NorCal/Santa Cruz area. This setting is the best I found for some mid stroke support but plush on smaller hits at speed (it's not that plush when going slow but that's fine with me).


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

I started flipping my fork prior to rides to wet the seals. It seems to help. Usually I have to up the rebound on my forks, but with lightish high volume 2.4 Ardent and Hans I had to dial it back a little. Like others I wonder if the enduro tube makes it a little chattery on lower speed stuff. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

If any of you have early 2015s, make sure you get the updated internals for the damper. 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk


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## riding4fun (Mar 24, 2010)

Does this apply to the Talas version too?
if so how would one know if the internals need updating?


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

*Are they bent?*

Anyone put a straight edge on their forks and see if they are straight? I was checking my fork to see what my steering head angle was with an angle finder app on my phone, using the straight edge of the phone against the lower legs. When I did this, I noticed that the straight edge of the phone did not lay flat on the back side of the fork legs, it rocked. It appeared that the lower legs may be slightly bent. I used a ruler and confirmed this. The legs appear to be slightly bent outwards, see pic below.

However when I emailed Fox, this is what they said; "Your fork legs are fine. They are designed that way on purpose.." I don't know if I'm buying that though.


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## MntnMan (Feb 1, 2008)

I believe Fox. The area where your thumb is is the area where the greatest forces are applied to the lowers. Do your same ruler test on the front of the lowers, then measure the circumference of the lowers where your thumb is as well as near the bottom of the lowers. I think you'll have your answer.


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

MntnMan said:


> I believe Fox. The area where your thumb is is the area where the greatest forces are applied to the lowers. Do your same ruler test on the front of the lowers, then measure the circumference of the lowers where your thumb is as well as near the bottom of the lowers. I think you'll have your answer.


I just did what I should have done to begin with. I broke out the calipers and the upper part of the lowers are about 2mm larger than the lower part of the lowers. Duh. For extra stiffness I'm sure. So problem solved. At least I know they're not bent now.


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

I have a 2015 fox 36 that i only have a handful of rides on. It is pretty harsh on high speed stuff and lsc and hsc are almost all the way backed off and im running about 7-10psi less than recommended. I dont use up all the travel. Im going to tear it open to change the bath oil. Any other things to look for? Someone had mentioned moving the negative spring around. And also there was mention of an overfilled bladder. Can you guys give me some more details? Thanks.


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Does fox provide this under warranty?



Christopher Robin said:


> If any of you have early 2015s, make sure you get the updated internals for the damper.
> 
> Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk


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## MntnMan (Feb 1, 2008)

How many clicks of LSC does your knob have, and does changing the LSC make a difference? My damper went bad and I was left with just 3 clicks of adjustment and it felt just like you're describing. Fox warrantied it no questions asked.


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## GH28 (Jun 16, 2014)

92SE-R said:


> I have a 2015 fox 36 that i only have a handful of rides on. It is pretty harsh on high speed stuff and lsc and hsc are almost all the way backed off and im running about 7-10psi less than recommended. I dont use up all the travel. Im going to tear it open to change the bath oil. Any other things to look for? Someone had mentioned moving the negative spring around. And also there was mention of an overfilled bladder. Can you guys give me some more details? Thanks.


I'm in the same boat with a '16 36 RC2. Running the recommended pressure and damper settings is like riding a rock hard tire. Bounces off of everything. "Going faster" doesn't make it any smoother, not by a long shot.

I pulled the lowers on mine and they were bone dry. Fixing that helped some, but not much. The air spring doesn't seem to have THAT much friction to it. I wonder if the damper is just overfilled or has a clogged/stuck valve or some such thing.

I've heard that increasing the negative air volume similar to what the new Lyrik spring has is beneficial. It sure looks like a very small amount of volume on the backside of the air piston. Probably gets some crazy vacuum effect going on.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

Read a few posts above. The early 36s needed damper upgrades. 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk


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## GH28 (Jun 16, 2014)

This is a '16 bought new last month. Shouldn't it be updated?


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Have u checked the air in the chambers of both legs? If u let all of the air out and compress the legs, do they stay compressed or come back up? If they come back up then u need to update the air seals with the new ones. Mine were letting air in and causing the harsh conditions u described. The only way to get the air out was by slipping a zip tie under the seals to let the air out of both legs. I have since had it warrantied and the new air seals put in and it's much better now.


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Verified this was an early model fork that was before the damper update. Fox wants to charge me for this update. Got a contact at Fox I can call? Might be just the person I spoke to.



Christopher Robin said:


> If any of you have early 2015s, make sure you get the updated internals for the damper.
> 
> Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

92SE-R said:


> Verified this was an early model fork that was before the damper update. Fox wants to charge me for this update. Got a contact at Fox I can call? Might be just the person I spoke to.


If it's out of warranty I would suggest speaking to Suspension Experts or PUSH unless you plan on servicing the fork yourself. I trust them more than a Fox tech. Plus, if there are any further issues, they are easily accessible. Avalanche has a good rep too.


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Ive had it for 2 months. Its brand new.



DrDon said:


> If it's out of warranty I would suggest speaking to Suspension Experts or PUSH unless you plan on servicing the fork yourself. I trust them more than a Fox tech. Plus, if there are any further issues, they are easily accessible. Avalanche has a good rep too.


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## JohnnyVV (Feb 28, 2015)

danny.mendes said:


> I have a new Fox 36 RC2 170mm fork on my new Nomad 3. The fork feels pretty good on big hits and drops and I am using all of the travel without bottoming out, but feels kind of harsh on small bumps and chatter. I am a light rider (145 geared up) and my setup is:
> 
> 45 psi
> one volume spacer - the one that comes stock
> ...


I'm about 135 and can't imagine riding with the damping wide open like that. At the very least I can say that you shouldn't need any kind of custom tune for your weight. Maybe you got a bad one, but a bad setup sounds more likely. I would suggest going to recommended settings, setting sag, and then adjusting from there. It's never going to be a super-plush fork when you're just plodding along, so if that's your aim, you're going to be disappointed. It's fantastic when it's fast and rough and that seems to me to be the reason you'd want a big fork in the first place.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

92SE-R... I think that's complete BS and tell them that. Fox suspension is f-ing expensive; it better work out of the box. I mentioned it elsewhere in this thread but I dropped off my damper (just the damper) at Suspension Werx here in North Vancouver for some custom tuning and they told me they updated the internals for free.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Interesting to see the 2017 Fox 36 updates. New lowers are the first thing Ive seen.


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Well whatever they did, before i was running 45psi and knobs all backed out and no spacer. Felt less harsh but had no support. Now im running at least 52psi with one spacer, have both lsc and hsc about 10clicks from open and rebound 6 clicks from closed. Night and day difference. I havent played around with knobs yet since it came back from fox. Damper seems to be working great and air spring feels good with decent ramp up


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Does look primo:


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

What's the 2nd pic supposed to highlight? If there's some external tapering/butting, I can't see it. I've seen it in their wire diagram 3d models though... makes me want to look at my '15 36 RC2 to see if the thru-axles "captured nut" look like that...

My '15 has developed some worsening creaking at the crown. Still not 1 year old. Maybe time to see what I get back from warranty. Should I remove the travel spacers and any volume spacers before sending it in?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Varaxis said:


> What's the 2nd pic supposed to highlight? If there's some external tapering/butting, I can't see it. I've seen it in their wire diagram 3d models though... makes me want to look at my '15 36 RC2 to see if the thru-axles "captured nut" look like that...
> 
> My '15 has developed some pretty bad creaking at the crown. Still not 1 year old. Maybe time to see what I get back from warranty. Should I remove the travel spacers and any volume spacers before sending it in?


2nd photo just shows the matte black colour for this year.

Your 15 does jot have a captured nut like this in the lowers. Its new for the new 2017 model year.


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## rondre3000 (May 29, 2009)

Finish looks similar to what's on my 2016 Fit4 36. Is it supposed to look different?

Surprised you're still playing with Fox, Draper. Thought you had fully moved on to your Fast Lyrik.

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Just realized i forgot to add, foxs customer service was pretty damn good. Did a complete teardown, said it was latest damper, and replaced every seal. They said they had issues with quadseal before so its the latest one now. I also wonder if my damper was overfilled


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

rondre3000 said:


> Finish looks similar to what's on my 2016 Fit4 36. Is it supposed to look different?
> 
> Surprised you're still playing with Fox, Draper. Thought you had fully moved on to your Fast Lyrik.


All my previous RC2 36's have had a metallic grey finish to them, not matte black.

I like to try all forks I can supply.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

92SE-R said:


> Just realized i forgot to add, foxs customer service was pretty damn good. Did a complete teardown, said it was latest damper, and replaced every seal. They said they had issues with quadseal before so its the latest one now. I also wonder if my damper was overfilled


Are you referring to the bottom stanchion air seal that separates the spring / lowers?

Mine has been a completely worthless part since day one...with the prescribed slick honey, it fails to hold pressure after one run...is this covered as warranty part/service now?


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Rick,

Someone who's got a buddy at Fox told me this was all the upgrades to the 2017's:

*2017 is much better, better small bump sensivity combined with mid-stroke support and bottom out
It has air release valves fro pressure build up
Better seal that last longer and more frictionless, it is triple kashima
Comes with 3 free service coupons
fixed the creaking by using a rubberized paste and better machining*

I've not seen one so can't confirm, but interested. Still happy with my 2 2015's, didn't seem to have any issues and the few I did, Fox had awesome CS and took care of me.


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## MntnMan (Feb 1, 2008)

My 2017 36 160 doesn't have air release valves nor did I get free service coupons. But the fork is awesome on my Insurgent.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

rscecil007 said:


> Rick,
> 
> Someone who's got a buddy at Fox told me this was all the upgrades to the 2017's:
> 
> ...


TBH it makes no sense for me to keep forks for too long hence why I get the new Fox every year. A new one every 8-12 months is optimum for me.


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## rondre3000 (May 29, 2009)

rscecil007 said:


> Rick,
> 
> Someone who's got a buddy at Fox told me this was all the upgrades to the 2017's:
> 
> ...


Sounds a bit far fetched. With those kids of updates we would have heard about them by now.

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

Funny they couldn't include those upgrades a couple years ago. Bottom out and mid stroke support isn't anything new. 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Not sure where quadseal is. Havent torn mine down too far because i was about to sell it. Now ill give it a bit more time and see


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Christopher Robin said:


> Funny they couldn't include those upgrades a couple years ago. Bottom out and mid stroke support isn't anything new.
> 
> Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk


Too bad cars in the 60's didn't include airbags.


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

Fox has just announced the 2018 forks. The information is below: 

2018 is much better, better small bump sensivity combined with mid-stroke support and bottom out
It has air release valves fro pressure build up
Better seal that last longer and more frictionless, it is triple kashima
Comes with 3 free service coupons
fixed the creaking by using a rubberized paste and better machining

Fox clams to fix their forks every year!


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Ok folks, I must eat crow and say that my buddy (the one who told me about the upgrades on the 2017) just saw my post, and I immediately got an email saying "You know I was joking right?"

Haha, got lost in email translation I suppose, I thought he was dead serious. Or maybe I had a one too many IPAs at the time I read it and the joke flew past me. Either way, sorry to put out false info.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Perma-fix= give us the coil option back

Call it IPA 3x cashma flavour:lol:


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

TwoTone said:


> Too bad cars in the 60's didn't include airbags.


Yeah I know what you mean, but to release forks that have issues is shitty. I know it's a business and they need to make money and meet deadlines, but man, they can try to make things work well the first time around.

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk


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## yapter2001 (May 24, 2016)

regarding suspension i just bought a bike last month with a fox 36 factory fit4. Im wondering if it came with the new e16 tuning . hoping maybe there still improvement in small bump sensitivity. It came with a manual saying 2017 but want to confirm. since did the valving come on 2016 or just the 2017? Want to knw if ill send the fork to fox for the uggrade...


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## MntnMan (Feb 1, 2008)

Calling Fox with the fork serial number would be your best option. If the fork manual says 2017, however, it probably has the new stiffer tune.


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## yapter2001 (May 24, 2016)

yea i emailed fox and im waiting on their long reply. i inputed the code in their website it said it was a 2016, weird thing is it came with a manual saying 2017. so wanna confirm the current valving. the bike is 2016 used for a like a month and half so want to be super sure before i send it off for servicing...


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## Markiel (Mar 26, 2015)

Set up question...

I have a 2015 36. I'm about 155 with about 60 psi in the fork. I'm running 25+% sag, and generally keep the LSC at 10-12 clicks from open and the HSC at 2-4 clicks from open with the rebound like 13 clicks from closed (nearly full open). Volume spacers removed.

The fork is still pretty harsh on fast stutter bumps. Any suggestions for making the initial stroke a bit more plush?


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

You may have an early 2015 version that had damper issues. 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk


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## Markiel (Mar 26, 2015)

I got the fork last July/August, and Fox tells me that it has the later 2015 tune that is supposedly more plush? But I also hear that the 2016 tune is even more plush than late 2015...

Wonder if I need a 2016 update?


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## rondre3000 (May 29, 2009)

Try Push low friction seals. It won't solve all your woes but they are pretty damn good and you're likely due anyway.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

It sounds like it's packing up then. Start over but this time count your clicks from closed. I read an article that during testing of the 36, the rider had a hard time setting it up. He consulted with Fox and they told him to close up all the dials and open them up as he went along until he was happy. You might have to do that. I'm thinking one of two things: you don't have enough compression damping to keep the fork from diving too deep into the travel and letting it pack up. Or you need a volume spacer to add some progression to keep yourself up in the travel more.


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## Markiel (Mar 26, 2015)

Thanks for the tips. I'll look into the Push Seals and try to fiddle with the compression damping a bit. I remember reading something similar when the new Fox 36 came out. 

I kept trying to lower the compression damping thinking that was slowing down the compression too much, but maybe I need more damping vs. less LSC/almost no HSC.


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## Markiel (Mar 26, 2015)

I tried lowering pressure by about 5 psi, it pushed the sag to almost 30%. Also tried raising the HSC and LSC and lowered rebound a bit. I guess with the newer 2015 tune, you can run higher compression damping than with the older tune. Fork seems more composed with the extra compression damping - so that was a good tip, thanks!


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## henry_z4 (Feb 20, 2013)

Hi guys, sorry for my poor English. Just an Italian guy looking for some help!
I have my 2015 170mm rc2 36mm that is driving me crazy.
I used it for one year (pretty few times I have to admit because of an injury). Since last week it started making big issue:
I inflate it at 67-68psi ready to ride, after 1 hour the fork is at 50 psi, after one night the fork is almost fully retracted and at 5 psi.
I tried to open the air chamber and when I pulled out the shaft I heard a "burp" noise coming up. But as long as I re-inflated it it made exactly as the last time: deflating in less than 8 hours.
Anyone experienced similar behavior?
I already contacted Fox in Italy to ask for assistance but all I got was: got to the closest fox point (50 miles!!)
Before making such a travel I would like to know some of your expert comments
Thanks!


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## MntnMan (Feb 1, 2008)

Make sure the schrader air valve is tight. The schrader valve oring could also be bad, but unlikely given the age of your fork. Pull the schrader valve out first and make sure it looks ok.


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

henry_z4 said:


> Hi guys, sorry for my poor English. Just an Italian guy looking for some help!
> I have my 2015 170mm rc2 36mm that is driving me crazy.
> I used it for one year (pretty few times I have to admit because of an injury). Since last week it started making big issue:
> I inflate it at 67-68psi ready to ride, after 1 hour the fork is at 50 psi, after one night the fork is almost fully retracted and at 5 psi.
> ...


Get an RA# from fox and send it in for service.


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## henry_z4 (Feb 20, 2013)

Shredman69 said:


> Get an RA# from fox and send it in for service.


Thanks for the reply! I'll try to tighten the core of the valve but even with soapy water no bubbles were coming out.

Unfortunately Fox Italy only accepts forks from authorized shops. I already asked to send in by myself but they denied this possibility.


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## henry_z4 (Feb 20, 2013)

henry_z4 said:


> Hi guys, sorry for my poor English. Just an Italian guy looking for some help!
> I have my 2015 170mm rc2 36mm that is driving me crazy.
> I used it for one year (pretty few times I have to admit because of an injury). Since last week it started making big issue:
> I inflate it at 67-68psi ready to ride, after 1 hour the fork is at 50 psi, after one night the fork is almost fully retracted and at 5 psi.
> ...


for who of you is interested the top cap has a crack near the valve. I figured out with a re-check with soapy water.
Went today to another LBS that took it in charge. Hope fox Italy will take charge of that in the next week


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## aenduro (May 29, 2013)

Hey folks,
I'm going to increase the travel of my 2016er 36 FIT4 160 up to 170 via the 180er air shaft and the neg spacer soon (waiting for parts).

Since I have to dissamble the air shaft assy I wanna ask if someone of you has increased the negative spring? I know it's possible (when traveling to 170mm with the 180mm air shaft) but I dunno the procedere in detail (just saw a pic).
can someone help? 
thanks!


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## Zatoichi (Oct 25, 2014)

*Abbey is now selling individual Top Cap Sockets*

There are many different tools that can be used to remove the 32mm top cap on the Fox 36 or other forks. For those who wish to purchase a socket instead of grinding down and making their own chamferess socket or using some other tool, Abbey Bike Tools is now selling their Top Cap Sockets as individual pieces.

Preorder thru September 30 2016, for $30 per socket. Delivery, early December.

Link:
Suspension Top Cap Sockets - Abbey Bike Tools


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## Markiel (Mar 26, 2015)

Another question for the suspension experts...

I've been putting some triflow on my fork seals for years (Fox performance forks). Been doing the same with my Factory 36. However, I've been noticing that on really dusty rides, after a couple of hours, my fork starts creaking. 

Thought it was a loose axle, so I tightened that & it didn't help. Then tried squirting a bit of water on the seals, and the creaking seemed to quiet down.

So I'm wondering if the triflow treatment is actually attracting more dirt and dust into the seal and doing more harm than good?

Or should I be using something like the finish line stanchion lube instead?


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

Fork starts creaking?? Don't think that's the seals.


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## rondre3000 (May 29, 2009)

Markiel said:


> Another question for the suspension experts...
> 
> I've been putting some triflow on my fork seals for years (Fox performance forks). Been doing the same with my Factory 36. However, I've been noticing that on really dusty rides, after a couple of hours, my fork starts creaking.
> 
> ...


I think I know what you are experiencing and I have had the same issues on 2 different Fox 36 forks. If you do nothing, does the issue disappear only to come back several miles later? You can actually feel the creaking/popping thru the handlebars right?

Try lubing your stem and bolts. If problem still comes back try your headset bearings.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

Markiel said:


> Another question for the suspension experts...
> 
> I've been putting some triflow on my fork seals for years (Fox performance forks). Been doing the same with my Factory 36. However, I've been noticing that on really dusty rides, after a couple of hours, my fork starts creaking.
> 
> ...


 lube can make dirt travel down. Seals stop water but not lube with particles. Foam will get crusty after a while. Sound would be more a squeak than a creak that you can feel through the bars though.


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## juice (Feb 8, 2004)

Fox forks have really good quality lube/wiper seal systems these days with the "gold" oil in the lowers. It was a noticeable difference when they went to this oil. Adding any stanchion lube is just making things worse.

We used to add stanchion lube to the old Marzocchi forks, made them feel great. But that was years ago and I don't know anyone who does this with modern forks. If you want it to feel better when you first start riding, hold your bike upside down-ish for 20 seconds prior to riding to get lube oil into the bushings, etc.

You probably have a creaky fork crown. Happens pretty often, and not just Fox. Send it in to Fox for the $170 factory service and they might replace your steer tube if there's a problem (and update internals, bushings, etc.). I LOVE their factory service program. They did this for me, and it sounds like it needs it again. When I smash a flat landing or plow through roots/rocks I can hear it creak.


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## Markiel (Mar 26, 2015)

I would say that my issue is more of a squeak or creak, seems to come from the stanchion/seal interface. But it's really hard to tell. Maybe my old triflow habit is at fault. 

I'm thinking that I should just remove the fork, clean/regrease the headset, & reinstall to see if that's causing the problem. 

When I reinstall the stem, am I supposed to put a thin layer of grease between the stem and steerer tube?

If that doesn't take care of the problem, do a seal/bath oil service. After that, then I guess it's off to Fox for the full factory service.


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## ryanxj (Sep 9, 2011)

Markiel said:


> When I reinstall the stem, am I supposed to put a thin layer of grease between the stem and steerer tube?
> .


I dont think you should be doing this work yourself, honestly


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## chrisingrassia (Aug 13, 2012)

Markiel said:


> When I reinstall the stem, am I supposed to put a thin layer of grease between the stem and steerer tube?


Absolutely not.


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Has anyone gotten a chance to compare shimstacks between 2015, 2016, and 2017?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

92SE-R said:


> Has anyone gotten a chance to compare shimstacks between 2015, 2016, and 2017?


Compression stacks I've seen:

2015 starter with a straight stack and changed to a tapered one (the tapered one is the same as all RC2 dampers have had).

2016 Is the same as the updated 2015 one.

2017 Is the same as the updated 2015 one.

Rebound pistons changed to a higher flowing one in 2016 iirc off the top of my head. It's got a stud and nut to hold the piston in place rather than a bolt.


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Rick, what mods have you done to your air spring. Also, do you have the measuremwnts for the shim thickness and diameter for each year?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

92SE-R said:


> Rick, what mods have you done to your air spring. Also, do you have the measuremwnts for the shim thickness and diameter for each year?


2015 began with:

All sizes in millimetres.

9.6 x 7 x 0.25 - 16.6 x 7 x 0.10 x 7 compression piston - bolt.

2015 updated and on:

All sizes in millimetres.

9.6 x 7 x 0.25 - 13.5 x 7 x 0.10 - 14.5 x 7 x 0.10 - 16.6 x 7 x 0.10 compression piston 9.6 x 7 x 0.25 - 9.6 x 7 x 0.25 bolt.

I've modified the air piston in my fork to create a large negative air chamber.


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Awesome stuff. Thanks rick. Did you find the later shimstack to be less damping? 

How did you like the negative air spring mod? Im probably going to have a few machined.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

92SE-R said:


> Awesome stuff. Thanks rick. Did you find the later shimstack to be less damping?
> 
> How did you like the negative air spring mod? Im probably going to have a few machined.


The newer tune is notiably less harsh.

No need to machine anything to increase the negative air volume. What length is your fork?


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Mines a 150mm


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Hmmm can i just not use the bottom flared piece altogether? Is the lower seal seat the same diameter as the flared piece?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

92SE-R said:


> Mines a 150mm


.......


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

So that flared piece the 10mm spacer is attached to is the bottom out bumper?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

92SE-R said:


> So that flared piece the 10mm spacer is attached to is the bottom out bumper?


No.

The mods if not done correctly do have the potential to damage the fork.


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

I guess im not understanding what leaving transfer rod position does if you take out 10mm spacer. You are still allowing 160mm of travel and now have the possibility of rod coming out at full top out. Also, if you are talking about the aluminum piece in between the two seals being removed, then i can see how that increases negative air volume. But i havent really looked at how the top sealhead attaches to it. Got any pictures?


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Thinking about this more, the only way to get more negative air volume is to machine a new topout bumper that seats the upper sealhead higher in the stanchion


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

92SE-R said:


> Thinking about this more, the only way to get more negative air volume is to machine a new topout bumper that seats the upper sealhead higher in the stanchion


The topout bumper is not alloy and removing the 10mm travel limiter still has the fork set at 150mm travel unless the transfer shaft is moved.


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

You mean the black rubber topout bumper, got it. Umm i dont see how the transfer shaft affects travel at all. All that shaft is for equalizing positive and negative at the correct spot. You have to adjust it because it can crash if you put too many travel reducers in or remove too many and come out of the transfer port. From what i can see, the 10mm spacers are the only thing physically limiting travel.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

Hey all, my 2015 36 Float RC2 fork is leaking air at the schrader assembly, when I use soapy water, it seems to be coming from where it threads in, figured its an easy fix and put a new assembly in (seal and all) and it still does the same thing?? Any ideas?


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## zangg (Jul 11, 2012)

Terminator Z said:


> Can "off the shelf" or "stock" 160mm 36's be extended to 170mm using the 170/180mm air shaft (and maybe the 170 transfer shaft)?
> 
> I know Fox's site says "160 forks cannot be extended past 160mm of travel" And I understand that there are different air shafts but I'm wondering if there is any compatibility between the two. Does the 160 36 share the same uppers and lowers as the 170/180mm 36, meaning the only difference is the air shaft and transfer shaft assemblies?


Any news on this topic?
A friend of mine is selling his 26" 2015 TALAS 160 and i would like to drop in an 180mm Float Airspring.
As far as i can tell, all lower castings are the same 2015 onward...


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

zangg said:


> Any news on this topic?
> A friend of mine is selling his 26" 2015 TALAS 160 and i would like to drop in an 180mm Float Airspring.
> As far as i can tell, all lower castings are the same 2015 onward...


You need the damper rebuilding with a new part.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

You can't extend a 160mm because the stanchions aren't long enough.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Snozz said:


> You can't extend a 160mm because the stanchions aren't long enough.


Wrong. The chassis is exactly the same.


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## LMN (Sep 8, 2007)

Rick Draper said:


> Wrong. The chassis is exactly the same.


There are nicer ways to say that

Something like
Actually the chassis are the same, what you have to change is........ Or although the chassis are the same you can't because........

A little bit of pleasantries goes a long ways to improving dialogue in forums.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

LMN said:


> There are nicer ways to say that
> 
> Something like
> Actually the chassis are the same, what you have to change is........ Or although the chassis are the same you can't because........
> ...


He was stating something that was totally wrong so I corrected him.


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## murrdogg11 (Apr 4, 2010)

I have a 160mm fox 36 and know for a fact it can't be extended past 160. The 170-180mm forks have longer lowers... And most likely uppers as well. This page from fox sure says it can't be done. But if you have some other info I'd love to hear it.
FORK- 2015-2016 36mm FLOAT Internally Adjusting Fork Travel | Bike Help Center | FOX


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## LMN (Sep 8, 2007)

Rick Draper said:


> He was stating something that was totally wrong so I corrected him.


Do you have a source for your information? If you are going to be that bold you should link in some proof.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

LMN said:


> Do you have a source for your information? If you are going to be that bold you should link in some proof.


The Fox product documents and the fact I have seen a considerable amount of 36's through the workshop and a 160mm fork uses the same chassis as a 170mm one.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

murrdogg11 said:


> Ya thanks for the info dick raper. very informative.
> I have a 160mm fox 36 and know for a fact it can't be extended past 160. The 170-180mm forks have longer lowers... And most likely uppers as well. This page from fox sure says it can't be done. But if you have some other info I'd love to hear it.
> FORK- 2015-2016 36mm FLOAT Internally Adjusting Fork Travel | Bike Help Center | FOX


Wow way to go with the insults, just because you are totally wrong no need to go around shouting your mouth off.

The air spring is shorter and the damper is shorter but they are only £30 parts max to replace. The lowers and CSU's are all identical. I'd post a link to the part numbers but I cannot be bothered dealing with someone who clearly knows far more....


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

Rick Draper said:


> Wow way to go with the insults, just because you are totally wrong no need to go around shouting your mouth off.
> 
> The air spring is shorter and the damper is shorter but they are only £30 parts max to replace. The lowers and CSU's are all identical. I'd post a link to the part numbers but I cannot be bothered dealing with someone who clearly knows far more....


Wow, now I'm confused guys. Is the only difference I need to worry about is the air spring and damper if I want to convert my 160mm Fox 36 29'er fork to , say 170mm or 180mm? That would be cool.


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## LMN (Sep 8, 2007)

Rick Draper said:


> The Fox product documents and the fact I have seen a considerable amount of 36's through the workshop and a 160mm fork uses the same chassis as a 170mm one.


Why didn't you say that in the first place then?

It is the internet, knowbody knows if you are an expert or a Joey. If you are going to say something like "Wrong" then back your statement up with some proof.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

blcman said:


> Wow, now I'm confused guys. Is the only difference I need to worry about is the air spring and damper if I want to convert my 160mm Fox 36 29'er fork to , say 170mm or 180mm? That would be cool.


Not with a 29er but with a 650b fork.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

LMN said:


> Why didn't you say that in the first place then?
> 
> It is the internet, knowbody knows if you are an expert or a Joey. If you are going to say something like "Wrong" then back your statement up with some proof.


Why would he need to? Rick's posted TONS of quality informative posts in this thread and on mtbr, more than enough for anyone to realize he's not "Joey." If you haven't seen those that's unfortunate, but calling him out is quite a bit out of line IMHO.


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

LMN said:


> Why didn't you say that in the first place then?
> 
> It is the internet, knowbody knows if you are an expert or a Joey. If you are going to say something like "Wrong" then back your statement up with some proof.


All I can say is if you follow these forums for a while, then you would know who to believe or trust, and who you should call out! Just say'in!:eekster:


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

Rick Draper said:


> Not with a 29er but with a 650b fork.


Thanks Rick! Thanks kind of what I thought. I could only wish thou!


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

rscecil007 said:


> Why would he need to? Rick's posted TONS of quality informative posts in this thread and on mtbr, more than enough for anyone to realize he's not "Joey." If you haven't seen those that's unfortunate, but calling him out is quite a bit out of line IMHO.


^ This!


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## LMN (Sep 8, 2007)

rscecil007 said:


> Why would he need to? Rick's posted TONS of quality informative posts in this thread and on mtbr, more than enough for anyone to realize he's not "Joey." If you haven't seen those that's unfortunate, but calling him out is quite a bit out of line IMHO.


As you can see have been posting in the forums for years. I haven't run into to Rick before and don't know his back ground. However, from with just a little bit of research I can clearly see that he is an expert in this field. But just because you are expert shouldn't mean that you don't have to be civil in your responses.

Maybe I am old fashion but I still think there is something to have a bit of manners.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

160 needs to be beefed up...170 would be too much imo


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## gpgalanis (Apr 7, 2015)

My new bike came with a 2017 Fox 36 Performance and even without changing the recommended settings it feels really great. Also it is black!

At last a black Fox 36!


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## zangg (Jul 11, 2012)

Caused quite a stirr over here...
Rick can you post the part numbers needed or any link to a technical drawing i can source these from nevertheless? 
I am dealing with Fox germany, which is just a bunch of s%ckers not answering any emails, being a dick on the phone when someone is looking for tech info and so on.... when i already have the part numbers i hope they are willing to sell these to me

Edit:
Found the drawings on the us website, but still find no alternative rebound shafts or wherever the difference is..


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

zangg said:


> Caused quite a stirr over here...
> Rick can you post the part numbers needed or any link to a technical drawing i can source these from nevertheless?
> I am dealing with Fox germany, which is just a bunch of s%ckers not answering any emails, being a dick on the phone when someone is looking for tech info and so on.... when i already have the part numbers i hope they are willing to sell these to me
> 
> ...


You need this part for the damper:

207-80-002	Cart, Mach, 015 36 170-180 NBO RC2 LW

And then the new air spring.


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## zangg (Jul 11, 2012)

Air spring is obvious and an new damper body then, thanks a lot!


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## gpgalanis (Apr 7, 2015)

Do you follow the Fox recommended rebound settings or are you running it a bit faster?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Could anyone with a 650b Fox 36 close by PM me, I need a few rough measurements from one.


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

Sent you a PM Rick.


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## gpgalanis (Apr 7, 2015)

Hi again. How many rebound clicks does the Fox 36 have? In the tuning guide the range goes from 0 to 9+ but in reality my Fox 37 2017 has 24 clicks!


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## gpgalanis (Apr 7, 2015)

Hi guys. Is there a specific order in which we should position the volume spacers? For example should the blue be on top of the oranges or the other way around?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

gpgalanis said:


> Hi guys. Is there a specific order in which we should position the volume spacers? For example should the blue be on top of the oranges or the other way around?


No just put them in however is easiest.


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## epicxcrider123 (Nov 28, 2008)

Rebound adjust on my fit 4 is completely locked up. Tried working some tri-flow in there after removing the rebound knob and got one more clockwise click, then locked up again. Anyone else experience this? Pulled the cartridge but there was no visible way to fix this without a full teardown.

The fork didn't come with the nice rebound knob cap as ut was an OEM 36. Need to invest in one after this is fixed.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

epicxcrider123 said:


> Rebound adjust on my fit 4 is completely locked up. Tried working some tri-flow in there after removing the rebound knob and got one more clockwise click, then locked up again. Anyone else experience this? Pulled the cartridge but there was no visible way to fix this without a full teardown.
> 
> The fork didn't come with the nice rebound knob cap as ut was an OEM 36. Need to invest in one after this is fixed.


Common problem on Fit 4 dampers. Send the fork back for warranty.


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## ttchad (Jun 28, 2007)

I want to rebuild or atleast change the fluid & o-rings on both the damper & air-spring. The fork is a 2015 Fox 36 RC2. Are all 3 of these clamps necessary or does a model exist that can do it all?

803-00-830 Service Set: Tooling: 2014 RC2, Shaft Clamps- Damper
803-00-147 Kit: Shaft Clamps, FORX, Set #2 -damper 
803-00-084 Kit: Shaft Clamps, FORX, Set #1 (32mm Forx) -Air Spring

Following pages are for ref.
https://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&id=514
https://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&id=652


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## epicxcrider123 (Nov 28, 2008)

Rick Draper said:


> Common problem on Fit 4 dampers. Send the fork back for warranty.


Thanks Rick!


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Looking forward to seeing what changes have been made to the 36 for 2018, we should find out at or just before Sea Otter. I am sure we will see the dropping of the transfer shaft at the very least.


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## Ole (Feb 22, 2004)

Rick Draper said:


> Looking forward to seeing what changes have been made to the 36 for 2018, we should find out at or just before Sea Otter. I am sure we will see the dropping of the transfer shaft at the very least.


Drop the transfer shaft AND the air piston, and drop a titanium spring into it. Gain a few ounces and tons of consistent performance.


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## Shredman69 (Apr 1, 2007)

Ole said:


> Drop the transfer shaft AND the air piston, and drop a titanium spring into it. Gain a few ounces and tons of consistent performance.


Na, I'll keep the light weight air and progressiveness.


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Update on my fox36 harsh issues

http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/2016-fox-36-harsh-990536-7.html#post13126415


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## Relentless (Nov 9, 2017)

Hey, I hope someone could help me with my problem. 
I was wondering if anybody has tried to convert a 2015 36 RC2 Float 170 27.5" to 29" 160 by switching the casting. I know that the csu of the 2018 models are the same but I couldn`t find any information, neither about the 2015 csu nor the cartridge and air assy. 
Of cause, the german distributor told me that it isn`t possible but that is their common answer to nearly everthing...
Thanks in advance!


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

Hmmm... for what it's worth, I have a 160mm 27.5 CSU matched up with a 160mm 29er casting. I'm not sure if your 170mm tubes would be too long?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Relentless said:


> Hey, I hope someone could help me with my problem.
> I was wondering if anybody has tried to convert a 2015 36 RC2 Float 170 27.5" to 29" 160 by switching the casting. I know that the csu of the 2018 models are the same but I couldn`t find any information, neither about the 2015 csu nor the cartridge and air assy.
> Of cause, the german distributor told me that it isn`t possible but that is their common answer to nearly everthing...
> Thanks in advance!


It will be fine. You just need to add a 10mm spacer to the air spring for 160mm travel and rake will be reduced from 29er standard 51 to 650b standard 44.


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## philstone (Mar 14, 2011)

I’m looking for an airshaft for my 36 to increase the travel to 170mm, part number 820-02-324, tried the UK disti who has no idea on when they’ll get some. Anyone else know where I can find one?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Relentless (Nov 9, 2017)

Rick Draper said:


> It will be fine. You just need to add a 10mm spacer to the air spring for 160mm travel and rake will be reduced from 29er standard 51 to 650b standard 44.


Thank you very much!!!
:thumbsup:

Will every casting work from 2015 up to now (100x15/20mm of cause) or are there significant differences between the years?


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## Pontyrider (Dec 26, 2017)

I've had my 160mm , 2017 36'ers ,converted to 180mm.Was done by Mojo, at around £90,if anyone is still interested...


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