# Cree 7up Build



## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Well I was off work today so I quickly knocked up a circular housing to take a 7up pcb. I'm of 2 minds whether this is the way to go or stick to individual dies and optics.

The main idea of this build is something that can be quickly spun up on the lathe, only using the mill for the rear heat sink fins and mounting holes.

I am thinking of using it for a helmet light with a mix of 4 xpg and 3 xpe to give a nicer tint and add more contrast to the trail. The driver I think will be a maxflex v5a so I can use a 14.8v pack and have a remote switch on the side of my helmet or where my camel pack water tube outlet is. Again not sure if individual leds in a 3s2p would be better than the 7up since I could drive that config from a bflex and achieve better efficiency and less heat at the driver.

The design has double o-rings on the front bezel and a single on the rear cover to keep her waterproof and a 2mm polycarbonate optic protector. Since the front bezel can be unscrewed the optics can be quickly swapped out.

The main body is 50mm diameter alloy with the compete light weighing 165grams with 47sq.inch of heat sink fins. The rear section of the body is also finned but since I do not have a maxflex I cannot finish this part of the light just yet.

Here are some renders of the concept. Please chime in if you can see any potential problems


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

Looks ideally suited to Quazzle's forthcoming 7 LED board that incorporates the driver.


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## larsan (Jan 15, 2010)

I see one problem. I can't make one of my own...


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## ozlongboarder (Jan 12, 2004)

Nice :thumbsup:


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Brad,

My only comment is that 7up boards, with the available Khatod optics, end up being rather floody lights that are more appropriate for handlebar mount than helmet. For helmet mount I've found the 3up boards with the Carclo 20mm optics work much better and provide a much tighter beam which is generally what you want for helmet duty.

Karl


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

How are you going to screw in the front and rear bezels/cap? - cut a thread?


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

MrLee said:


> How are you going to screw in the front and rear bezels/cap? - cut a thread?


Front bezel is threaded, rear cover will be held with 5 cap head screw I think.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

kwarwick said:


> Brad,
> 
> My only comment is that 7up boards, with the available Khatod optics, end up being rather floody lights that are more appropriate for handlebar mount than helmet. For helmet mount I've found the 3up boards with the Carclo 20mm optics work much better and provide a much tighter beam which is generally what you want for helmet duty.
> 
> Karl


Thanks for that Karl. I was wondering as much. I assume the beam gets tighter if I use all XPE leds but then I loose out on the efficiency of the xpg's.

Since I want something for faster DH runs Maybe I should just make a 7 up with individual dies and optics for my helmet so I can choose the beam angles.

Brad


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

brad72 said:


> Thanks for that Karl. I was wondering as much. I assume the beam gets tighter if I use all XPE leds but then I loose out on the efficiency of the xpg's.
> 
> Since I want something for faster DH runs Maybe I should just make a 7 up with individual dies and optics for my helmet so I can choose the beam angles.
> 
> Brad


I haven't tried the 3up optics with XPE, but I was actually quite surprised how tight the beam was with XPGs and the narrow 16 degree Carclo 3up optics compared to the Khatod narrow optics. I really wish Carclo made similar lens for the 7up boards because I think the Khatod optics are wasting a lot of lumens. I'd suggest going with either a single or double 3up for the helmet. I'm really happy with the Gili 2x3up I built up for helmet mount.

Karl


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

try a quad XPG / Regina you wont be disapointed .
Check my beam shot with 5 in the monster light thread .


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Thanks Troutie, this is the same housing enlarged to suit 4 regina's. Getting a bit big so I might be back to milling a rectangular housing after all. But at 56mm diameter and 70mm long it is certainly not huge.

With the 4 regina's I could run a 7.4v pack and the maxflex to keep battery pack size smaller, or just use a bFlex and an 18,5v pack and gain in the efficiency and heat department


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## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

I hardly think you'd need it to be 70mm long for just 4 emitters. I am envisioning a rectangular quad...all in one line. Radius the outside of it to match the radius of the Regina. Put a few flutes on it...say 3...where the 4 reflectors meet.

If I had a mill and a rotary table...I'd be all over that sukka, mofo, yeah!!!


Figure each Regina to be 19mm and touching each other.

76 plus about 2-4mm walls...so 78-80mm wide by about 23mm tall. (you could make the side walls 4mm for cap screws to mount a face cap)

Depth could be whatever it takes to fit all that crap in there because I'm using a 25mm x 70mm shell for a triple with plenty of heat dissipation. Heck man just figure around 15mm for the reflector, 1-2mm for the board, another 1-2mm for a lexan lens to cover it all up. Maybe leave yourself another 4mm for a firewall and 3-5mm for some fins across the back. Dang man...Maybe 30-40mm total depth...it could be a really cool "light bar".



I'd just do a buckpuck externally like I did my doubles and wire the LED's in series.

Single mode...you're lookin' at a Wall-E killer there, man! (close, anyhoo, hahaha)


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## ozlongboarder (Jan 12, 2004)

What type of DH are you talking about? We do a state forest road, takes about 45minutes to climb and about 3 minutes to get back down, max speed is about 65kmh. Some tight twisty bends and some long open sweepers. 

I originally did it with a Lupine HID on the helmet, great compared to my mates with old halogen bar lights. Then I got a P7 bar light to go with the HID, even better. Then I got the MS on my helmet and the 7UP on my bar.....its like daylight. 

They may not be big throw optics on the 7UP but they throw more then enough light to make the DH run just as fast as a day time descent. 

A 7UP bar and a quad Regina helmet would be the ultimate though.......:thumbsup:


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

*Chelboed* I was just playing when I put the reginas in the 7 up housing. The light will be more like you describe with 4 regina's / xpg's and either a bflex with 18.5v pack or a maxflex with 7.4v or a 11.1 volt pack. The 11.1v pack will have just a bit too much voltage though when freshly charged.

As for the size of the housing you can be guaranteed I will shave as much off it when designing in cad and since this light will be for the fast stuff heat sinking fins can be minimal as it will only be used when moving, and most of the heavy finned designs are more for slower speeds where airflow is low but convection is high, like the 7 up housing i originally posted.

*Ozlongboarder* My night rides have a 5km circuit of twisty single track circuit with roots, rocks etc, plus a DH track dropping 400m in 2km to get to the single track. There is also some fire roads that will pose no problem.

All in all just another excuse to build another light. I'm just in the process of ordering some regina's and leds from cutters but just cannot decide on the maxflex/blex option


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

ozlongboarder said:


> A 7UP bar and a quad Regina helmet would be the ultimate though.......:thumbsup:


I like the way your thinking. I might put my last quad build on the bars and a quad regina on the helmet. I also have 2 triples doing nothing at the moment. Who said making lights wasn't addictive


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## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

brad72 said:


> *Chelboed* I was just playing when I put the reginas in the 7 up housing. The light will be more like you describe with 4 regina's / xpg's and either a bflex with 18.5v pack or a maxflex with 7.4v or a 11.1 volt pack. The 11.1v pack will have just a bit too much voltage though when freshly charged.
> 
> As for the size of the housing you can be guaranteed I will shave as much off it when designing in cad and since this light will be for the fast stuff heat sinking fins can be minimal as it will only be used when moving, and most of the heavy finned designs are more for slower speeds where airflow is low but convection is high, like the 7 up housing i originally posted.


Well...as awesome as the double's performed...I think a triple could prob. get ya where ya need to be. I'm so fickle and torn.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Well much to my wifes delight I'm sure i've just ordered a mixed xpg/xpe 7up board, some optics to suit, 4 rigina optics and xpg's to suit and a maxflex. 

You can never have enough light so no use doing things in in halves


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Chelboed, maybe a 4 up housing like this. Only problem is it weighs around 160 grams or so might be too heavy for my helmet.

Lights dimensions are 91mm (w) x 58 (d) x 29 (h)


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## ozlongboarder (Jan 12, 2004)

Weight is over rated! 160gm is ok on your head provided you have a good helmet and position the light so its not dragging the helmet down over your eyes. 

Ever put on a full face motor bike helmet? Those suckers are heavy compared to a a bike helmet and mounted light.

That quad housing looks good. Low profile is great for low hanging branches!


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Looks good Brad be even better if you bent it to shape the helmet .
be a barsteward to machine though


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> Looks good Brad be even better if you bent it to shape the helmet .
> be a barsteward to machine though


Thanks troutie. Man, where to begin with bending to the shape of my helmet. Easy to do in CAD, another thing to do in real life .

Most of the current design can be done on the lathe which is good but you've planted a seed in my head now and I'm going to have to modify it and see what it looks like


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Something like this troutie? I better go to bed or I'll never get to sleep


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## phburns (Sep 30, 2008)

Nice evolution! I ran across a company that does rapid prototyping in wax, then casts your part. http://www.bealkacasting.com/rapid_prototyping.html I wonder what their rates are.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Whoa that would be top notch :thumbsup: 

Lots of pics of that in the construction would be appreciated.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Can you do the bow with two pair that have a common back for driver and mount? It would be a bit wider and heavier with the two inner ends. I know this will mean a metal-metal interface but a snug fit and Arctic Silver epoxy should do it or you could O ring and cap screw it together there for access with only the wire opening at the back. The extra area of the inner ends between lenses 2 & 3 should more than offset any remaining thermal issues. Not as ideal as a one piece, but much easier to make. If nothing, else, it could be the prototype to prove you really like this setup enough to do it as a one piece. I imagine you could sell it easy enough. The two Regina modules would be suitable to make smaller doubles for helmets and sixes, eights or whatever for bars.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

phburns said:


> Nice evolution! I ran across a company that does rapid prototyping in wax, then casts your part. http://www.bealkacasting.com/rapid_prototyping.html I wonder what their rates are.


 Thanks for that. Once I have finalized the design I might just send them the CAD file and get a quote. Nothing ventured nothing gained.



BrianMc said:


> Can you do the bow with two pair that have a common back for driver and mount? It would be a bit wider and heavier with the two inner ends. I know this will mean a metal-metal interface but a snug fit and Arctic Silver epoxy should do it or you could O ring and cap screw it together there for access with only the wire opening at the back. The extra area of the inner ends between lenses 2 & 3 should more than offset any remaining thermal issues. Not as ideal as a one piece, but much easier to make. If nothing, else, it could be the prototype to prove you really like this setup enough to do it as a one piece. I imagine you could sell it easy enough. The two Regina modules would be suitable to make smaller doubles for helmets and sixes, eights or whatever for bars.


Interesting thought. I'll have a fiddle in CAD and come up with a concept. 2 doubles would be very easy to machine, just need to be creative with the driver eg master and plug in slave module etc


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## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Dood...your CAD skeelz are off da hook!


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

chelboed said:


> Dood...your CAD skeelz are off da hook!


Thanks. I design and build automation equipment so do a lot of cad. Once you know how it is so fast to design things. Most designs can be test run in the computer prior to fabrication which really helps avoiding mistakes.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

BrianMc, after some though with your design idea I have worked out the electrics to enable 1 master twin light with a maxflex to power 1 or 2 more twin modules that plug into the master. The master unit would have jumper pins that can be set to enable 2s1p, 4s1p, and the 1st slave module would have the same jumper to enable the 2nd slave to be pluged into it. That would enable a 6s1p led configuration from 1 maxflex, with the only change being a different battery to cater for the voltage increase. 

This is starting to get complicated but thats the joy of designing  .


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Helmet and light


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Back to the original topic the mixed 7up board, optics and maxflex arrived today so i better get the housing design finalized and start building. Will do the the 4 up regina on another thread.

I do have 1 question however. With the maxflex driver running from a 14.8v or 18.5v pack (@350mA will be just in regulation when fully charged), how many of you heatsink both the copper part of the board plus the inductor chip on the opposite side. I am thinking it is a must if I ever run short bursts of 1amp. 

Thanks


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## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

The part that I don't quite get...is that the back of the light curves in the opposite way of the helmet. It should be shorter in the center and longer on the outer edges to wrap around the helmet more. Then you can get that light off the top of the helmet where the tree limbs like to hide.


My $0.02


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

chelboed said:


> The part that I don't quite get...is that the back of the light curves in the opposite way of the helmet. It should be shorter in the center and longer on the outer edges to wrap around the helmet more. Then you can get that light off the top of the helmet where the tree limbs like to hide.
> 
> My $0.02


Agree, the adding the light the helmet was for the general concept. Once the optics etc arrive I'll get a serious housing designed. Like you say, don't want the light on top of the helmet unless I want to light up when back wheel when it gets ripped off the top of the helmet. :eekster:


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

What I would like to see from you Cad and CNC guys yes I know it would be fearsomly expensive and very hard to do on manual machines but oh so unique . 

is a custom helmet peak from aluminium with the lights built in 

On the Maxflex if you are riding in a warm clime and can heatsink the top of the chip 
then yes do it the colder you can keep it the better .


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> What I would like to see from you Cad and CNC guys yes I know it would be fearsomly expensive and very hard to do on manual machines but oh so unique .
> 
> is a custom helmet peak from aluminium with the lights built in
> 
> ...


Don't worry troutie, i already have the plans in my head to make the light housing more adaptive to the helmet, just need to put into cad. I'm shoot through some renders for your perusal when I get it drawn up. If it works the 4 up Regina should be a lovely light. I wish the lights were as easy to machine as they are to design in CAD though.

A peak out of carbon fiber incorporating the optics etc with alloy heat sinking would be nice, being light as well.

My 7 up is now finalized and I will start machining it next week..........time permitting.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

If you can pull it off, the one piece is a beautiful concept. I wonder if some of the 'old school' design techniques before 3-D computer models would help to get the measurements feed into the CAD/CAM and would help or speed the design process? If you got play dough or modeling clay to craft the fit of the light at bill or peak wherever you want it to mount, maybe that would help you see where it needs to sweep up to follow the helmet a bit more easily, This large a light has the advantage of spreading impact loads across most of the front of the helmet so should not pose the 'punch through to the skull' that paired lights snuggled in the vents create.

The angled wings of the light are vaquely reminiscent of Klingon 'Bird of Prey' which if it has not been used for a bike helmet light yet, seems a good name for this one. For some of us less skilled riders it may well help out as a 'Bird of Pray'.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Back on topic, I managed to get most of the main light body for the 7 up machined this afternoon. Was nice and easy as all the machining was done on the lathe. Just need to mill out the rear of the housing for the maxflex and machine the front and rear covers. Might get them done tomorrow. She's come up alright so far though.


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## 121GW (Sep 21, 2007)

What are the rough dimensions of the housing?


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

about 65mm long and 50mm diameter


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Well the housing is finished. Just waiting on the IP68 plug and socket for the power in and remote switch to arrive so I can solder her up properly.

The housing is completely waterproof ended with 3 o'ring seals and and the IP68 plug. I was able to heat sink the maxflex on both sides of the as per Georges recommendations for thermal control so efficiencies should be improved. 1 side is epoxied, the other thermal paste so the rear cover can be removed

I think I'll run this light from a 14.8v 15c protected lipo (thanks Ktronic for the pcm's) to help reduce voltage sag that the 18650's are prone to. I tested the light tonight and i'm pretty impressed. When compared to my quad it doesn't look too much brighter when both are at 1000mA but the throw of the 7up is fantastic in comparison, lighting up houses some 150 meters away that the quad is barely reaching. At 1000mA the housing does get warm but until I get it fully assembled I won't bother measuring the temperature. Looking at the light output however I think i'll run 500, 700, & 1000mA settings, most likely staying in teh 700mA for most of the time.

Next is to mill a handlebar mount then out to the trail for some testing.


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## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

looks good!!!!!!!


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## 121GW (Sep 21, 2007)

Did you machine the front cover as well?

Very nice looking housing!


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Very nice execution! :thumbsup:


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

rxbandit said:


> Did you machine the front cover as well?
> 
> Very nice looking housing!


Yep, spun it up on the lathe and added the knurl to give some grip when unscrewing.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

The battery cable and 4 pin socket arrived this morning. I went for the 90º plug so I don't hit my knee on the cable. They are expensive little buggers, a cable gland would of been far more economical but where would the fun be in that


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

brad72 said:


> The battery cable and 4 pin socket arrived this morning. I went for the 90º plug so I don't hit my knee on the cable. They are expensive little buggers, a cable gland would of been far more economical but where would the fun be in that


Looking cool in both ways Brad :thumbsup:

do you have the part numbers for the connectors


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Thanks for the compliment. Plug and socket are form RS Components part # 's 290-6382 & 282-962. I'm sure they can be purchased cheaper elsewhere but I order form RS quite a lot so just convenient. The have 24awg wire with a maximum current of 4A @ 60vDc so should work well. Two wires will be used for the battery and the other 2 for the remote. The connector is IP68 and IP65 when mated. 

Brad


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## Toaster79 (Apr 5, 2010)

Beautiful piece of work. But I still don't get it, how you make threads on lathe, when it's not a CNC. I'm about to buy one of my own, and could use some advice, since I've only got experience on CNC milling machines.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Thread cutting is easy. You just need a lathe with thread cutting change gears or selection levers and some tool steel sharpened to the correct point or a tool with thread cutting insert.

Essentially you work out how threads per inch you require, the thread on my light being 28tpi, than angle of the thread, mine being 60º, then major and minor diameters of the threads to be cut and that's about it.

Engage the thread chaser and the thread cutting lever on the carriage and start cutting till the desired depth of thread is achieved.

If you have a mini lathe without thread cutting gears, you can buy a cheap 2 axis stepper motor kits like these http://www.probotix.com/2_axis_stepper_motor_driver_kits/ and turn your mini lathe into a cnc lathe that runs from your PC, easy


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

brad72 said:


> Well the housing is finished. Just waiting on the IP68 plug and socket for the power in and remote switch to arrive so I can solder her up properly.
> 
> The housing is completely waterproof ended with 3 o'ring seals and and the IP68 plug. I was able to heat sink the maxflex on both sides of the as per Georges recommendations for thermal control so efficiencies should be improved. 1 side is epoxied, the other thermal paste so the rear cover can be removed
> 
> ...


Nice work Brad..:thumbsup: 
Wish i had a lathe too!
I'll drop you my addres so you can post me one... for testing of course


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

brad72 said:


> Thread cutting is easy. You just need a lathe with thread cutting change gears or selection levers and some tool steel sharpened to the correct point or a tool with thread cutting insert.
> 
> Essentially you work out how threads per inch you require, the thread on my light being 28tpi, than angle of the thread, mine being 60º, then major and minor diameters of the threads to be cut and that's about it.
> 
> ...


You make it sound soooo easy Brad My old ( 60+year old) lathe has all the gear
but its owner has no idea yet . 
done a couple of external threads but not got an internal tool yet .


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Your almost there Troutie,

For the hobbyist, if you've got some 1/4" tool steel sharpen it to the correct angle(use a gauge). Then put it into a holder and use it to do the external thread. Take that same bit of tool still and put it into a boring bar to cut your internal thread, meaning the thread face angle will be the same. Since the internal thread major diameter will have been cut with a boring bar it should already be the correct size to fit the minor diameter of the external thread. The easiest way to cut the internal thread is to take small cuts and try and screw in the part with the external thread cut into it. That way as long as small cuts are taken the thread fit will be nice and snug and you won't go too deep causing a sloppy fit. A DRO fitted to your lathe makes it more accurate and fast but not many hobby lathe will have these fitted.

easy....once you've done it once.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Thanks for the compliment GD. If I ever make more than 1 I'll send one over to you. Always like to help out a fellow pom. Iv'e been in Australia for 30 years but still a British citizen. Tried to get citizenship but post 911 it became such a hassle. I lived in Orpington so not far from where you are.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Well I got the light finished except for the handlebar mount that I just can decide on.

Thermally everything seems pretty good with dimming kicking in after 25 minutes when the light is run at 1000mA and dimming set to 60° C. This was tested by putting the light on top of a fence post with a light breeze blowing on it, outside temp of 17ºC. When run indoors with a computer fan blowing on it the temp of the housing settled @ 47ºC when driven at 1A. 700mA was no problem.

Have to admit at 1000mA the heat coming off the leds is pretty amazing so I may have to alter the power outputs when summer arrives saving 1A for DH runs only, but I can't test that till it gets hotter. In reality however I may not need the 1A setting as 700mA max might be fine when riding single track. Will have to see.

Beam wise the frosted medium seems to be the best for a bar light with a nice smooth spread and very little haloing. I ended up getting a mixed 7 up board with 4xpg and 3 xpe and the colour is pretty good Couple this a triple xpe narrow on the helmet I think i'll have a pretty good combination.

Battery wise the 14.8v 2800mAh battery pack ran for just over 1 hour at 1A so a 5000mAh is going to be needed. 2 packs in parallel will have to do for now.

The low voltage led is fitted to the rear of the housing above the input plug so it will be easy to see when the light is mounted to the handlebars. The 4 pin plug carries the battery power plus the momentary remote switch.

Will post some beam shots and some pictures of her mounted to the bike a few days.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Nice work brad..:thumbsup: 
Can we see the front please
Id be interested in how you wired up the momentary switch to the power cable..
looks like i need a 4 core with the quazzle boards..


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

GD, the cable I used is 4 core, 2wires to the battery and 2 to the switch. I just stripped a section of cable about 1/2" long 6" from cut end and pulled though 2 wires, then heat shrunk them, leaving the other 2 wires in the original insulation.

Here's a pick of the front stuff. The polycarbonate lens protector is 4mm thick(ran out of 2mm) with the outside section milled down to 2mm thick. The protector was cut on the mill using a rotary table. I also added an o-ring to the front bezel to waterproof it, plus another o-ring between the bezel and the housing and 1 more on the rear cover. She should be nice and waterproof.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

Oh man, I want a 7-up setup so badly.....


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Brad, you make that thread cutting sound too easy. I have no thread cutting capability (except for taps and dies) on my tiny Taig lathe so I turned my bezel to be an interference fit and glued it on with AA and I still cant get it off after a year even with a blow torch!

If you are still unsure as to what mount to use then I can really recommend the exposure Quick release job as it puts the light ahead of the bar and away from the knees. Could be pricey in OZ though. You could always come back to Orpington and let us Bromley blokes use your tools.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

YB, thread cutting is easy but only if you have the right tools. I feel a bit spoilt to be honest having all the gear. Before having a thread cutting lathe what i used to do was cut a groove in the male part and put 3 small grub screws in the female part. Easy to remove the bezel and still looks good. I'd be pretty proud of myself if I were you as it's not easy turning up large parts on small lathes and your light came out looking really good. My lathe is huge, having a 150mm spindle bore, 16" chuck and 29mm tools. 

Those exposure mounts lok great but I'm looking at $50 to get one out to OZ. Might have to mill one up...sigh


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

brad72 said:


> My wife didn't mind as I took the kids to work with me. It's a great plan as I can spend as long as it takes without getting the "where are you" phone call.:thumbsup:


But how long is it before you get the "Dad i'm hungry!" or "Dad I'm bored!" nagging?

Nice work on the lights Brad.

As for the citizenship, now that Julia is in charge, maybe you should have come over on a boat and you'd be right by now


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

emu26 said:


> But how long is it before you get the "Dad i'm hungry!" or "Dad I'm bored!" nagging?


Oh, i got the "I'm hungry" but luckily our company make all the lamingtons, cupcakes, fruit cakes, run balls etc for Coles and woollies so we have an abundance of snacks. That always shuts them up.


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

brad72 said:


> Those exposure mounts lok great but I'm looking at $50 to get one out to OZ. Might have to mill one up...sigh


Cost you about $41 from chainreaction to oz, I can't see postage costing as much as they charge, cheaper for someone to forward one on (free uk postage) .

I'm off to look at thread cutting on youtube, I saw one done by cnc and thought that was impressive enough.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

*The light is finally finished*

I finally got the light finished this afternoon.

I ended up using a Cateye flextight handlebar bracket which worked out well as my handlebars have a taper where the bar goes from 31.8mm to 25mm so i had no problems in keeping the light secure.

I took light for a 15 minute test spin and heat wise at full power (1000mA) the housing was only warm. I'll give it a proper test out on my local trails on the weekend which will also give me some idea of run times as I won't need full power going uphill etc.

Just have to anodize it now in either red or black. Got to get some chemicals tomorrow as I'm going to try to diy route. Should be fun with a hint of danger

Here's a couple of shots showing the final result.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Very nice work, brad! :thumbsup:

Looks like you're using the medium optics for the 7up? I just switched out "narrow" lens I had for the medium and it seems to have gotten rid of the halo effect I was getting with the narrow and hasn't significantly affected throw from what I can tell.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

kwarwick said:


> Looks like you're using the medium optics for the 7up? I just switched out "narrow" lens I had for the medium and it seems to have gotten rid of the halo effect I was getting with the narrow and hasn't significantly affected throw from what I can tell.


Thanks for the compliment. Yep, it is fitted with the medium optic which i agree has a much better beam. Hopefully a manufacturer someday can make a better narrow optic that can harness the 7 up a little better and get rid of the halo's.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Took the light for a proper test tonight and all is great. I ran the light at full power, 1000mA, and with a 14.8v 2600mAh pack got 1 hour of runtime on the nose. 

Heat wise the housing got warm but not hot so I'm very happy. Outside temp was 19ºc. Most of the heat was around the bezel which has additional fins in the mk2 housing design. Should be even better in theory once I anodize it black.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

For a bit of fun I thought I would try increasing the maximum power form 1A to 1.2A. I didn't bother with 1.3A as there is only a negligible increase in light output. I was only riding slowly and after 15 minutes the housing was about 50ºc so getting pretty hot. The light output was vary impressive mind you and would be perfect for those short DH runs where you can never have enough light. The other current levels were 500 & 700mA. 

Since I am using a xpe/xpg mixed board I might need to get a full xpg board as the xpe is only rated a 1A max. 

Since it only takes a few seconds to set the maximum brightness it would be easy to set it dependant on the trail about to be ridden, or just use multimode and have all brightness levels available. With thermal dimming at 60ºc, the leds and should be nicely protected


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Any beam shots? Would be nice to see the difference..


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Nice. Very nice, indeed. :thumbsup:


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

I took the light out for a ride tonight with the narrow optic and it was really good. The throw was substantially more than the medium which is to be expected. The centre hot spot was a good diameter and the side spill was not too bad, but did have a darker halo between the hot spot and outermost ring. 

I'll post some beam shots tomorrow


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## Itess (Feb 22, 2009)

Hi brad,

What momentary switch do you use? Is it waterproof?


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Itess said:


> Hi brad,
> 
> What momentary switch do you use? Is it waterproof?


The switch is one of these http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=3367148&x=0&y=0. It's only dust proof, not waterproof. I have hunted high an low for a waterproof one but to date cannot find one hence why mine is wrapped in heatshrink.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Not sure what a single pole momentary switch means but this is IP67 rated.
http://www.rapidonline.com/1/1/2365-3ctl6s-ip67-tactile-switch.html


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Nice find GD, thanks for that:thumbsup:


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

brad72 said:


> Nice find GD, thanks for that:thumbsup:


Dont know if you can source them locally or if rapid ship to oz, If not and you need a few let me know i can send you some if needs be.. just paypal me what they cost and some postage..


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

farnell have those - http://uk.farnell.com/multimec/3ctl6/switch-spno-white/dp/1132874

seem quite expensive on farnell au though? - http://au.element14.com/multimec/3ctl6/switch-spno-white/dp/1132874


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

brad72 said:


> The switch is one of these http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=3367148&x=0&y=0. It's only dust proof, not waterproof. I have hunted high an low for a waterproof one but to date cannot find one hence why mine is wrapped in heatshrink.


I've been buying remote controls for Cateye bike computers for my DIY light switches.

Two waterproof switches for less than $US10.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Well, sorry for dragging up an old thread but after being off the bike for a few months with work, rain, floods and landslides I got motivated and managed to finish the Mk3 housing of my 7 up and took her out for a ride the other night. 

Essentially with an outside air temp of 27ºC and 75º humidity(bit hot for a night ride) I was able to run the 7 up @ 1300mA for 45 minutes without any overheating problems going up or down the hills. The housing got pretty hot when stationary for 5 minutes or so but when moving was only warm to the touch so a complete success.


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## jcrazyjj (Jan 4, 2011)

what program do you guys use for your 3d modeling?


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

jcrazyjj said:


> what program do you guys use for your 3d modeling?


Autocad Inventor Pro 2011. The only thing I don't have which I wish i did is the thermal modelling software.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Nice work mate.

what part of Qld are you in and how did you fair in the floods?


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Were in Toowoomba so we had the big flash flood through the center of the city. Even our factory that is on a hill got 2" of water through it with the car park being about 2 foot deep from the water. The rain just came down so hard and fast the water had no where to go. 

The poor buggers down the range had a hard time. One lady lost a 2 story brick house with her husband a son in it. They haven't been found yet but she is just left with a concrete slab. Mother Nature can certainly unleash some fury when she wants

Unfortunately most of our tracks have washed away or have slipped down the range from landslides so it will be a while to get them all back in shape. Good job I have an enduro with 160mm of travel to handle all the big rocks that are now exposed.


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## jcrazyjj (Jan 4, 2011)

brad72 said:


> Autocad Inventor Pro 2011. The only thing I don't have which I wish i did is the thermal modelling software.


am i in over my head trying to use maya?


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

jcrazyjj said:


> am i in over my head trying to use maya?


To be honest with inventor, once you know the basics you can design a light housing in about 30 minutes, it;s that easy. Those 4up housing earlier in this thread took about that long. Using Maya however may be a different story as it is more orientated to 3D animation and renders instead of traditional engineering parts.

I haven't used Maya personally but i does look like a pretty good program.


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## jcrazyjj (Jan 4, 2011)

brad72 said:


> To be honest with inventor, once you know the basics you can design a light housing in about 30 minutes, it;s that easy. Those 4up housing earlier in this thread took about that long. Using Maya however may be a different story as it is more orientated to 3D animation and renders instead of traditional engineering parts.
> 
> I haven't used Maya personally but i does look like a pretty good program.


i think im pretty darn good in autocad but they dont have inventor for mac unless i want to run parallels which i dont want to do. oh well.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Sorry to hear about the floods bet is was pretty terrifying .


Tis a good design with plenty of fins :thumbsup:


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Thanks Chris. All our family and friends were safe. 

Mk3 has more finned area plus better sinking of the maxflex (even used a copper heat pipe...sshhhh). Might try a 1500mA driver with a full xpg board just for fun. Can never have too much light.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

I think terrifying is probably an understatement.

This is a storm water canal that from what i understand, passes pretty well through the middle of town.

and more here

some very lucky people think.

Brad, pleased to hear you are all safe and well


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

The Subaru Forester in the first video was bent in half backwards around the bridge support that it hit and the creek in the second video is usually about 1 meter wide. The water from the 1st video combines with the water from the second video about 2km down the road so you can imagine the destruction when they merged.

This video is about 1km upstream from where the subaru forester was seen in emu's video. 



 This water is crossing a 4 lane road .

Needless to say, although it had been raining all week the rain storm that produced all that water lasted about 60 minutes. It was just that it had been raining for weeks and the ground was super saturated.

The picture below is the 2 lane highway down the Toowoomba range that turned into a river, and not from the water in the video's that Emu posted. It is a lot steeper than the image shows as this video shows.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

it's mental what happened.. glad your ok brad....

We need your advice on these forums 

Maybe you'll have to swap your mtb for a boat for the time being..you can use your 7up as a search light and help the search partys.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Thanks Jay. Were lucky in Toowoomba because as quick as the water came it went. I just can't get to most of the trails due to road closures and landslides.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

MK3 housing. Got rid of the expensive 4 pin plug and used a 12mm cable gland. Still have the thumb operated momentary switch mounted next to the shifter which is really good for the road to quickly change back to low power as on 1300mA everyone coming towards you gets blinded.

As far as weight she comes in at 220g plus the battery.

Now to make an XML light


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## Khrystyan27 (Jul 3, 2011)

Still got this light?

Got some nightshots?

How much light output?


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Yep, I've still got this light and use it every ride. It's still the birghtest light I have made and handles noce warm nights which is a what I made it for originally

Here's a few beamshots at 1300mA

Fence at 110 meters










HOrse at 50 meters, tree at 85


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## HuffyPuffy (Jun 9, 2008)

Damn that thing is a monster light! 

That horse is going to need some dark glasses and a cane if you make anything with more LED's.


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## Khrystyan27 (Jul 3, 2011)

wow...

Really bright...

And cand you give me a link, from where you get those led drivers?

Maybe from DX?


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## brandon01 (Apr 9, 2011)

Khrystyan27 said:


> wow...
> 
> Really bright...
> 
> ...


*i would like to no also 
*


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

He is using a maxflex driver from taskled.com


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## Khrystyan27 (Jul 3, 2011)

From DX, can we buy something close to that?

I haven't bought nothing from taskled.com. ...

Good light thought!


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Khrystyan27 said:


> From DX, can we buy something close to that?
> 
> I haven't bought nothing from taskled.com. ...
> 
> Good light thought!


Sorry, can't help there as all the drivers I have used are either taskled of buckpucks, all purchased from Cutter Electronics.


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## Khrystyan27 (Jul 3, 2011)

No problem, i think that i am goana make a custom driver...

Especialy for my 2x Cree XM-L, cuz i can't find nothing close to the power that the led's need.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Khrystan, I don't understand your problem. XML wants 3A to be driven at its max, correct?

LFlex max current 3.5A 
H6Flex max current 6A
both of the above, click the hyperlink, have selectable drive currents upto the max listed

I'll post more soon


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Led-Tech have some here that will go to 2800mA


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## Khrystyan27 (Jul 3, 2011)

mmmm....

Haven't heard of them... Cool anyways !

Think that i will follow youre advice and use them.

Can you also recomand me a good batery pack? Something about 1:30-2 hours of FULL, BOTH led's on.


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