# 1 1/8 to 1.5 headsets



## BCoyle21 (Jul 6, 2009)

I am in the market for a new fork and the Domian (last year) is pretty cheap on Pricepoint right now. I would like to get the one with black lowers however that is the fork that comes in the 1 1/8th version. Is there and disadvantages to getting a headset "expander" to fit my yeti ASX. Will it cause a weak point above my crown or are headsets that go from 1 1/8 to 1.5 considered weaker than a standard 1.5 headset? Or should I stop whining about the color of my fork lowers?:sad:

Also what headset would you guys recommend? (obviously I'm on a budget since I'm buying a Domain instead of a Totem)


----------



## dytrdr5 (Mar 6, 2006)

If your frame is a 1.5 frame than you can go either route, I am running an fsa reducing headset with no problems at all. I guess common internet wisdom would be to see what you ride and intended use, most would agree that if you do a lot of drops or big jumps than the 1.5 would be better, if not than it doesn't matter.


----------



## trailadvent (Jun 29, 2004)

Ok will try this again, dam mtbr and Firefox its usually bad but worse than ever yesterday and today, Ive tried this 5 times already  

OK

1 18th stds and 1.5

This has been around for ages even longer than the so called Manitou introduction in the early 2000s

Ive run 1.5 and reducers on Cannondales as early as the first Caad models in HT and FS, my 94 Super V I had 1.5, my 95 had a Judy and reducers, the I went full 1.5 with headshocks and lefties, ah the glory days of Cdale and the 90s.

And these HTs were some of the lightest and strongest around too.

OK 1.5 std allows a larger area around the top tubing down tubing and headtube area, this can allow a designer manufacturer to create a lighter but far stronger front end to deal with the loads/forces that FR and Downhill bikes can exert in either and usually more is distributed via smaller diameters which require thicker tubing be it the headtube or fork steerer to compensate, ex between weight and stiffness.

1.5 HT can then also allow for a headset that can deal with these loads, a bigger headset [and this can depend on execution of design and quality of bearing etc etc] which allows should better and bigger bearings to be used to carry the loads exerted!

Note as I said this can even benefit XC rigs, Cannondale still uses 1.5 as std on all there bikes.

So this also allows a lower stack height now common on DH rigs e.g the trend has been to go lower or as low as possible on rigs over the last few years, many benefits and reasons for this in DH and most rigs.

Again though geo and frame sizing stem and bar relationship all play a part in this, why am I telling you all this because it can determine ya headset options and because allot of this depends on the type of ride you want and the type of rider you are.

Also with K9 reducer + degree options to slacken and steepen the HA and lower or raise the BB 1.5 also allows a 1 1/8th for to take advantage of updating the GEO of ya rig and can make the bike current or tune to your ride, 1.5 rules, its MTB std not roadie :thumbsup:

The ASX is a classic and 1.5std allows you to use 1.5 / tapered or 1 18th forks i any of these steerer tube options.

Since you have a 1 18th thats a good thing so don't think you're not well provided for.

2 Options here!

Option 1:

Std threadless headsets [these sit inside the headtube as you are familair with bu the bearing sit externally.

As suggested I'd go FSA as good as anythng out there but th cartridge ver sis as good a quality going. the non cartridge requoires much more maintenance as it does get exposed and will seize if not regualry maintained.

http://mtb.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?taxid=137&layout=product
The best FSA in this config is this one tops as said Cartridge!~
http://mtb.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?taxid=137&layout=product

Option 2:

Is inset or internal headset, note both options are 1.5 reducing to 1 1/8th for your setup.

Internal reducing provides al the ame benefits as the std external except it can will lower your front end e.g reducing stack providing a more DH attack ridin style, if you are a spacer type setup rider, e,g if you use spacers between your headset and stem now this may not suit and you will be better with the std HS in option 1
If you want as low as possible A2C and take advatage of it then this could be your go!

Orbit Z 1.5R [for reducer to 1 1/8th]
http://mtb.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?taxid=138&layout=product










Check this from Hope, not as ex as a CK better imo and also much lower cost than a Cane Creek 110.

http://www.hopegb.com/voir_hsg.html

and have a wee read of this if Ive confused you!
http://www.hopetech.com/database/Hope%20Technology%20Headset%20guide.pdf

:thumbsup:


----------



## yakmastermax (Jan 11, 2009)

very helpfull


----------



## BCoyle21 (Jul 6, 2009)

Trailadvent, thanks alot I think you managed to answer all my questions in a lengthy, yet extremely informative piece, i appreciate it.:thumbsup:


----------



## trailadvent (Jun 29, 2004)

No worries guys 

I try to keep it short, tis hard, its flows out like a river with no dam haha 

banged me head too many times


----------



## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

*1.5 ht to 1 1/8 steerer stem spacers*



trailadvent said:


> No worries guys
> 
> I try to keep it short, tis hard, its flows out like a river with no dam haha
> 
> banged me head too many times


You know where to find a 1.5 to 1 1/8 stem spacer for a taper fork?


----------



## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

sort of like a taper spacer. edit- taper external profile

would look better on the head tub.
​


----------



## chinkerjuarez (Apr 23, 2007)

Why would you need a tapered spacer? The top of the steer tube, where the stem attaches, is 1.125 so you just need a standard 1.125 spacer.


----------



## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

chinkerjuarez said:


> Why would you need a tapered spacer? The top of the steer tube, where the stem attaches, is 1.125 so you just need a standard 1.125 spacer.


Because the OD of the 1.5 head tube is so much larger than the OD of the spacer.

Basically to streamline the transition from a 1.5 HT to the 1 1/8 stem.

Something like this


----------



## chinkerjuarez (Apr 23, 2007)

Now I know what you mean tapered outside not inside. Now I get it. I don't even worry about those I just run the regular 1.125 spacers with my reducer headset.


----------



## Cable0guy (Jun 19, 2007)

DeerhillOG said:


> Because the OD of the 1.5 head tube is so much larger than the OD of the spacer.
> 
> Basically to streamline the transition from a 1.5 HT to the 1 1/8 stem.
> 
> Something like this


??? I think you are confused. That looks like top part of a headset. Tapered fork should have 1 1/8" steerer as it enters the top part of the headset. So you use 1 1/8" spacers.


----------



## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

This is the only one I found so far. The profile is nothing special. 
http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=15069024

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=19638

Wish that FSA was for a 1.5...


----------



## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Cable0guy said:


> ??? I think you are confused. That looks like top part of a headset. Tapered fork should have 1 1/8" steerer as it enters the top part of the headset. So you use 1 1/8" spacers.


It is the top part of a headset. That is just the look I am after.


----------



## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

Hi,

There is a major USA shop that is ditching their 1.5" forks for pennies at the moment.
I cant remember what the name is, but go through google products.

The main ones were Totems and Fox 36 for 50-60% off.
Gets you a better fork, with the right interface for less money.

win win win.

p.s. I have not read the above, but do not fit a 11/8 to a 1.5, you will get none of the advantages of either interface and the disadvantages of both.


----------



## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

CaveGiant said:


> Hi,
> 
> There is a major USA shop that is ditching their 1.5" forks for pennies at the moment.
> I cant remember what the name is, but go through google products.
> ...


1 1/8 crown race to a 1.5 reducer bottom cup is not smart.

1.5 taper steerer is fine w/ 1.5 HT.


----------



## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

Agreeing with what deer said.


----------

