# Bikeyoke Revive



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Got it installed. Seems nice. Lever controls speed of return. Lever seems nicely made, mounted up well to the I spec II. Install was straighforward, just like the fox transfer. Cable-uncut weight is 550g, I had a few extra pieces in there before when I weighed it. 125mm drop 30.9. Fits well in my large pivot. I had concerns that it might be too short, but according to the measurements it should have been plenty long, it was, no issue.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

How about parts and servicing?


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## VitaliT (Jan 17, 2015)

Nice dropper
Have one 31,6x160 in order waiting for delivery.

Complete service can be done in 15min, without any special tools. All spares well be available shortly.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Travis Bickle said:


> How about parts and servicing?


It's an inverted design, so rather than rely on the seal fighting against gravity to keep air out, it's supposed to go much longer between servicing. If the oil does get contaminated and starts sagging, there's a bleed valve on the top that you can use on the trail in a few seconds. Supposedly the engineering in this thing fixes a lot of those usual issues. Yes, supposed to be fairly easily serviceable too.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

VitaliT said:


> Nice dropper
> Have one 31,6x160 in order waiting for delivery.
> 
> Complete service can be done in 15min, without any special tools. All spares well be available shortly.


That sounds very promising.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

I'm still waiting for mine which should be late February. It definitely looks promising and hopefully it's as user friendly as advertised.


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## eicca (May 9, 2014)

Subscribed. The 160mm version is top on my list.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Subscribed. I'm looking for a new dropper and so far I've narrowed it down to this and the e-Thirteen TRS+. That one isn't released yet, so no reviews.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Well, I'll race it hard in April, but I doubt we'll be able to ride much before that here in AK, so it'll probably be a while. All I can do is play with it in the apartment  As said before, installation and function tests sitting on the bike were excellent.


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## Michael R. Rivera (Feb 6, 2017)

*Hi*

Good one. Looks awesome.


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## AlienRFX (Sep 27, 2006)

Got mine in about a week ago, works as advertised and the remote has great ergos. The stack height from the bottom of the collar to the seat clamp is much shorter than my Thomson so I could have gone with a 160 instead of the 125.


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## fleanutz (Jan 29, 2004)

Got my 31.6x160 a week or so ago and have ridden it several times. Nice action, solid remote, and I've used the reset valve once when I first got it to get it working properly. So far it's fantastic, and I even think it feels better than my other KS Lev posts. 


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

fleanutz said:


> Got my 31.6x160 a week or so ago and have ridden it several times. Nice action, solid remote, and I've used the reset valve once when I first got it to get it working properly. So far it's fantastic, and I even think it feels better than my other KS Lev posts.


Great to hear! Hopefully mine will show up soon.


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## y0bailey (Dec 19, 2006)

I'm digging mine so far on week 2 of installation. I have had a gravity dropper, X-fusion HILO (old model), and a LEV. So far it has ZERO negatives for me to complain about, from install, remote, speed, etc. 

I have found out that if you lay your bike down or place it upside down you will more quickly need a "reset" of your revive, but it takes literally 5 seconds to perform and will run flawlessly for days. 

I'm now experimenting with leaving the post DOWN when laying my bike down or flipping it upside down to see if that prevents a bit of oil/air mixture. But again, a 5 second fix if I get a bit of sag.

I'm cautiously optimistic. I've had enough terrible posts I won't be fully optimistic until it's survived 6 months under my abusive body.


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## RideMN (Sep 8, 2016)

Anyone try one in fairly cold temps. I need a dropper that can handle some cold. E thirteen also has my attention. 


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## y0bailey (Dec 19, 2006)

I've had 2 sub freezing rides and post performed flawlessly. Bikeyoke tested it in a walk in freezer to help with oil selection...It's cold friendly.


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## RideMN (Sep 8, 2016)

Awesome. Good to know!! 


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

I was looking for the video that I saw a couple of weeks ago. Took a bit to find it but here you go.


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## RideMN (Sep 8, 2016)

Stupid question, but can I order this in the US and how much is it US vs EUR? Thanks!

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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

RideMN said:


> Stupid question, but can I order this in the US and how much is it US vs EUR? Thanks!
> 
> Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk


Yes you can order it in the US. The total for mine with the I-spec II adapter ended up being just about $350. BTI will be the US distributor so most shops will be able to get them too.


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## RideMN (Sep 8, 2016)

Awesome. Thanks! 


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## Al2000 (Mar 22, 2004)

Mine arrived today (31.6 x 160). Can't say anything about performance yet, but impressed with the manufacturing quality. The low stack height of the post is a bonus too, looking forward to getting it installed.

The guys at BikeYoke were great to deal with as well, responsive, friendly and helpful.


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## RideMN (Sep 8, 2016)

Ordered a 31.6 x 125 today!! Can't wait to get this on my WoZo! 


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

Mine came in yesterday. 31.6 /160

Installation was pretty straight forward with very detailed instructions.


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## adagioca (Apr 28, 2004)

Anymore recent feedback. Real close to pulling the trigger (pun intended!). I really like what I read but I'm a little hesitant not knowing what are going to be the long term future of this company, availability of spare parts, servicing, etc.

I know it's not a outrageous amount of money but still not insignificant. It would suck to find out couple of years down the line that I can't get it repaired or serviced and be stuck with a $350 paperweight. I'm even thinking about just ordering a few service kit just to be on the safe side...


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

adagioca said:


> Anymore recent feedback. Real close to pulling the trigger (pun intended!). I really like what I read but I'm a little hesitant not knowing what are going to be the long term future of this company, availability of spare parts, servicing, etc.
> 
> I know it's not a outrageous amount of money but still not insignificant. It would suck to find out couple of years down the line that I can't get it repaired or serviced and be stuck with a $350 paperweight. I'm even thinking about just ordering a few service kit just to be on the safe side...


That's a risk with any up and coming business. The emails I have had with Sacki regarding my purchase have always been very quick and professional. Unfortunately, I received the wrong size post and he was on it quickly. Mix ups happen and he went above and beyond to get it sorted which doesn't always happen with the bigger companies. Yes, I realize that I assume some extra risk dealing with a smaller company, but I also like being able to email the owner / designer of the post if something comes up. Not just emailing a company's tech support that is trained in ALL their products. He knows the post inside and out, so I know I have that backing.

My only review so far can be about the installation. The instructions are very detailed and it is pretty straight forward. One warning is that the cable stop that goes on the post end is small. Be VERY careful not to drop it, it can be hard to find on the floor. Once it was mounted, I had about 3 to 4 inches of vertical play. I inserted the 4mm wrench, turned it a quarter turn, pushed the post down all the way, turned the wrench back, removed wrench, and extended the seat post. Now I have about 1mm of vertical play. Rather than trying to eliminate the need for bleeding, he just made it super easy to deal with. Even if you had to do it before every other ride, it really isn't any harder than lubing your chain.


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## AlienRFX (Sep 27, 2006)

After all air is bled out of the cartridge, the only time you're likely to get air back in it is if you raise the seat with the bike laying sideways or upside down, or possibly if you lift up on the seat so hard and quick as to pull a very strong vacuum on the fluid chamber thus possibly opening one of the valves. With that said outside of those specific conditions it has stayed solid for weeks with no need to bleed again.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

No, no updates other than it still appears to work. I played with it a little today as I was getting some bags made for my bike, but snow is melting and it'll be a while yet before I can try it out. At least it's held air and everything else just sitting around.


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## the-ninth (Nov 1, 2013)

Also have a few weeks of riding now with the Revive, and still very happy. Operation is very smooth, and apart from the initial bleed, no further air in the system. And I am still very happy to have been able to fit 160mm of travel in my Medium Specialized Enduro. 35 mm may not sound like much, but in technical section, the difference to the stock 125 mm post is really noticeable.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Have they raised the price of this dropper? I seem to remember it being around $350 USD. Now it's close to $400.

Anyone know what the retail price is from a BTI distributor?

Thanks.


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## RideMN (Sep 8, 2016)

My lbs ordered me one through BTI. I ended up paying $374.00. Guessing my lbs dinged me 20 for special order. 


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

I believe the suggested retail through BTI is just over $400. It does look like the Bikeyoke.de site jumped some though. Roughly $50.


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## Clencher (Dec 6, 2014)

Installed a 160mm 30.9 into my XL trance yesterday.
Install would be easier on a smaller frame as the cable was only just long enough. Though I did end up trimming 80mm off since I have it slammed most of the way into the frame. 
Quick turn of the bleed valve and there was no sag.
It's my first dropper, so nothing to compare it to but I am happy with the feel of the lever and it goes up and down. What more does one need? All I hope is that it lasts.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

I'm trying to decide on either the Revive or e-Thirteen's TRS+ new dropper coming out in May.

Can anyone tell me why you chose the Revive over the TRS+?

I have 3 reasons to choose the Revive, 160mm vs 150mm, infinite positions and lighter weight. Available now would be a 4th reason I guess.

The TRS+ has some benefits too. Fully mechanical with 5 year warranty and lower price.


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## adagioca (Apr 28, 2004)

Was in the same boat deciding between the 2. Price difference was not too much a factor for me with only $80 difference between the 2. Same with travel, the extra 10mm did not seem like a big deal.

It came down to:
- Infinite positions: I talked to few friends and their experience was that the issue with fixed positions is that it's less natural to use, specially if you have been used to just letting the post rest where ever you want.
- Mechanical vs hydraulic: I have to say I was also afraid of how fast the mechanical post would return vs the very smooth action of a hydraulic post.
- Available now: I don't trust expected availability. Been burned before waiting for a manufacturer to release a part or have it easily available.

I don't think I was comfortable ordering the TRS+ without trying it first. On the other hand, I was also a bit hesitant to go with a new company and no long term guarantee for servicing, finding parts, etc.

So Revive it was for me.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Thanks adagioca. I'm thinking the same as you.

In regards to the infinite vs. 4 position, I use my dropper a lot in the middle. I'm sure I could get used to having 2 positions in the middle, but I don't want to have to fiddle with it too much to find one of the spots in the middle.

Talking to a buddy last night, and he didn't care about the middle at all. Said he only uses his dropper for full up or full down. If that were my case I would probably hold out until May just to see what the TRS+ is all about.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Ordered a 160mm with Triggy from my LBS. Should be here next week.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Hi, I´m Sacki from BikeYoke.
If you have any questions regarding our dropper (or other products from BikeYoke), just let me know.
Next to the German forums, I´ll also try to take care of you guys here, as much as I can. Still new to MTBR, so I hope, I´ll get used to it, soon.



BXCc said:


> I believe the suggested retail through BTI is just over $400. It does look like the Bikeyoke.de site jumped some though. Roughly $50.





69tr6r said:


> Have they raised the price of this dropper? I seem to remember it being around $350 USD. Now it's close to $400.
> 
> Anyone know what the retail price is from a BTI distributor?
> 
> Thanks.


Our dropper still retails for the same price as before. Just go to our website and choose your country and it´ll show you the correct prices. Maybe you saw the prices for EUrope? 160mm drop is still 310,08€ including shipping worldwide.
Also we now have the spare parts online.


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## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Hi Sacki
The 125 dropper seems to be pretty long. Is there a way to make it as short as the ks lev Integra?

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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Our REVIVE in 125 is actually already about same length as a LEV Integra with 125mm, I don´t see, why you would consider it being pretty long.

If you don´t consider the bottom part, the we are actually even shorter. 
PLUS: Our bottom part can be rotated/oreinted by hand, in case you need to save some space on the front or rear for pivots inside your seattube. 
Please also don´t forget, that our stack height is a lot shorter than from all other posts on the market, which means, that even at same total length, the REVIVE would not insert as deep into the seattube as other posts.
Here you can see the comparison between our post and others:

REVIVE 125







REVIVE 160







REVIVE stack height







LEV Integra







Reverb







Transfer








I don´t know of any other post on the market, that has a shorter insertion depth at same saddle height with same drop.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

FWIW: All of the drawings above give the seatpost information needed to figure out if a post will fit for a person's max saddle height in a given frame. For example: One key dimension is the fully extended distance from the saddle rails to the bottom of the stanchion collar. This is called out explicitly in the Revive and Transfer drawings but not in the Lev or Reverb dwgs, though it is easily calculated. IMO, the Transfer dimensioning is the most straightforward for the prospective buyer, using the saddle rails as the datum and measuring downward from there to the bottom of the collar, the minimum insertion line and the overall length.

Some brands of posts don't provide the information needed to establish if they will fit a specific application. The Bontrager Dropline is one example.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

sacki said:


> Our dropper still retails for the same price as before. Just go to our website and choose your country and it´ll show you the correct prices. Maybe you saw the prices for EUrope? 160mm drop is still 310,08€ including shipping worldwide.


Yup, that was it. Showing $310, just needed to make sure I selected the right destination.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Well I guess it's too bad I didn't get the correct pricing when I tried to order. For some reason the web site thought I was in Afghanistan.

Ended up paying about $20 more from the lbs, ordered from BTI.

I installed the post over the weekend. A couple of issues I had:

1. The instructions say to install the lever and route the cable housing, then make a mark on the housing at the top of the seat tube. Then cut the housing 90mm shorter than that. I ended up taking about another 100mm off of the housing after that. 90mm was not nearly enough to cut from the housing without everything bunching up and having a sh*t ton of extra cable housing. I think this depends on the frame and how it's internally routed.

2. Since I had to cut my housing twice, I had to install the cable barrel twice. The first time was good. But the second time, the 2mm T-handle hex key I was using was a little worn so I guess I didn't get the clamp tight enough without stripping the barrel hex. First press of the dropper lever and the barrel popped off inside the frame. I re-did it using a new hex key and a torque wrench on the 3mm side. BTW- 2Nm = 17 inch pounds. This proved that I didn't have it nearly tight enough before. Once torqued, that thing is not going to slide off!

I had to do a reset after the initial install, then again when I had my bike upside down for a bit. The reset function worked perfect both times.

I rode with the post 2 times and it is awesome! Great return speed, no issues at all. I'm super pleased.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Thanks for the kind words. I´m glad you are happy with the post after all.
It works really smooth and easy, right? We´re reall proud of the low forces required to move the post. 

If you store or transport the post upside down or laying down (the post head being the lowest part of the post), you should store it in extended position, this will minimize the chance of needing to reset the post.

The cable cutting length is not depending on the frame design, BUT the cable length described in the manual is for the minimum insert depth (post is maximum out). This is noted in the manual on page #11 
https://www.bikeyoke.de/media/products/0811311001487002194.pdf. 
If you have the post inserted deeper than minimum insert, then you can cut the cable accordingly (and maybe even a few millimeters more, we specify a little bit longer than neccessary for perfect lenght). We just want to make sure, the cable is not cut too short in any case.

About the prices:
Basically the shop always thinks, you are from "Afghanistan", when you first enter the shop, since Afghanistan ist the first country in order of the alphabet. However, Afghanistan has the same pricing as any other country outside the US, so it must have shown the correct pricing.
We only have two prices for the 160 (125) posts: 369€ (349€) for countries within the EU (includes 19% VAT already) and 310€ (293€) for countries outside the EU.
For countries outside the EU, we do not have to collect the VAT, so unlike many other companies and shops, we just charge the money, that we can actually keep from the customer. That´s why people from outside the EU seem to pay "less".

Keep having fun with your REVIVE.

Cheers
Sacki


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Thank you Sacki. Glad to see you on the forum.

Thanks for a great product!


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## ghughes.hesinc (Jun 10, 2009)

^^^Ditto, can't wait to get some miles on mine!


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

All good with my Revive still, but I do have to reset it every time I turn my bike upside down. Not a big deal.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

sacki said:


> Thanks for the kind words. I´m glad you are happy with the post after all.
> It works really smooth and easy, right? We´re reall proud of the low forces required to move the post.
> (...)


Hi Sacki.

Apparently due to a problem in the transaction I lost the opportunity to get the last Revive in the 160mm 31.6mm configuration sold in the European online shop, because after 15min I tried again but it was already out of stock.

I'm going to do a bike vacations in a short time and wish to know when will it be available again.

Thx.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Hi, I guess you are the one from Portugal? ;-)
If so, then I tried to contact you by email, because I saw a problem with one order and wanted to contact tat one.
Anyway, REVIVE 160/31.6 will be back in stock in about 10 days. They will leave on April 28 to Germany, and usually arrive 3-4 days later. After that I will be shipping right away.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

@69tr6r: You can try to put your bike upside down with the seatpost extended. This should make less (or no) air get inside the inner chamber.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Yeah, I'm that one ...
I didn't receive any email. But I'm going to check it now again, to be sure.

Damn it 28th plus five to seven days to arrive will be too late...
Don't you have one hiding in there somewhere? 


EDIT: it went to spam, I hate microsoft...


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Hiding really nothing. Just used ones, but no new.
If it´s are really really urgent, then you may order it from Bike-components.de.
They currently still have some stock, as far as I know.
Or - but more costly - you could order form me a 30.9 version and also order an additional spare part "lower tube unit":
https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-lower-tube-unit.html
I have stock of those spare parts.
This spare tube will come without lasered logos, since lasering is done after assembly. If we lasered the tubes before assembly, the logos wouldn´t be aligned properly, because you never know the orientation of the keyways before assembly.
If it is not allowed to post those links here, please let me know. I don´t mean to do any advertising, just trying to help.
This way, you could swap between 30.9 and 31.6 for any future frames. 
The swap is really done in less than 5 minutes. No need to release air or oil.


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## VitaliT (Jan 17, 2015)

Hi Sacki
Great post, softest activation and nice action.
Is it possible what next model or update for existed instead of 4mm hex get small revive lever installed?


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

We are currently working on a tiny (plastic) lever, that you can attach, using the 4mm hex (or remove it, if you want it clean). But it´s gonna take a little while, until we´ll have it ready. We´ll make it work with the current version, too.
So you may buy it in the online shop later on.
The post itself won´t be changed, tho. We just want to add this little lever.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

I don't really want to spend more money, this month already spent around 250€ on bike parts. I use to buy things from Bike-Components, so I did thought on buy from them, but don't want to pay more. And the 270€ for the Revive is already over budget.
But I believe it will be worth it.

If you are willing to let go of one those used ones, at a discount, I would be willing to buy one.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Our trails are mud or snow, but I got the bike out on hard ground to get it tuned for the race next week down south. The Revive is smoooooth. Played with it a bunch. I think I'm going to like it a lot.


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## foresterLV (Dec 25, 2016)

Got Revive installed today. 
Its smooth indeed. Remote push required force is very light when the seat is not under load, almost like pushing electronics button. Under full load its more effort, but nothing extreme (same or a bit more theb Reverb remote?). No actual trail riding yet, was just playing around workshop. 

Also I liked the fact that 160mm Revive dimensions are close to my 125mm Reverb it replaced, so basically you can have bigger drop range on the same L frame. Reverb have ~4cm collar on top that eats height (and it was constantly untightening for me for some reason).

Will see how Revive is working long-term for relatively heavy people (97kg+) on fat bikes. 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Been using it on a bunch of training rides recently (prepping for vacation/races later this week). Really smooth action and very precise in terms of being able to meter the return speed. Definitely like it. Fairly ergonomic as in the lever is in about the right place too. Best I've used.


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## xavierp (Jan 18, 2011)

For those who already have the Revive installed, does it have the usual play we see on other brands ? That has always been killing on fairly new posts !

Thanks


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

xavierp said:


> For those who already have the Revive installed, does it have the usual play we see on other brands ? That has always been killing on fairly new posts !
> 
> Thanks


What play are you asking about? Twisting or vertical?


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

I just did the Whiskey Off Road 50 proof on the post and I was glad I had it. Things I noticed after the last few days: You can't turn the bike upside down, even for a little bit, it will mix air and oil and sag. The reset works as advertised. Even on a long hardcore race with 8300' of climb/descent including a lot of crazy rocky terrain and big chunk at speed, it never had any issue and at the end, no up and down play, so I can beat it to hell as long as I don't turn the bike upside down, just have to make sure you have a multi tool if you do. The action is very nice, best I've used, super smooth and sensitive to how far you push the lever and makes me wonder why anyone would want to mess with those hydraulic lever-systems. It's ergonomic for me and easy to use while riding. All in all, im happy with it.


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## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Sounds like it can be an issue if you crash. You'll need to reset it everytime which can get annoying.

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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

The first version had a built in lever for bleeding. Supposedly Sacki is working on a retrofit for anyone that wants that option. That would negate the post crash bleed issue during a race. If I crashed and needed to take a minute to bleed the post, that won't bother me nearly as much as having to get it rebuilt twice a year.


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## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Would be an issue for ppl who race though. It saps your power when the seat is too low and hurt your knees

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## quicksilverta (Feb 3, 2008)

If you crash that bad during a cross country race or enduro run your not gonna win. Chill out and do a quick bleed. I don't see it being a problem at all.


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## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

During a crash your bike may go upside down and mix air, don't think it has to be bad. Many ppl have crashed and won both in mtb and road. 

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## xavierp (Jan 18, 2011)

BXCc said:


> What play are you asking about? Twisting or vertical?


All the seatposts I had had this small lateral/forward-backward/twisting play. It's nothing and very commun, but if I can avoid it, it's for the best (I hate to have anything with play)


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## quicksilverta (Feb 3, 2008)

jacksonlui said:


> During a crash your bike may go upside down and mix air, don't think it has to be bad. Many ppl have crashed and won both in mtb and road.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


ha ok


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## the-ninth (Nov 1, 2013)

My Revive has minimal play, not back and forth, more like twisting. I do not notice that when riding, just can feel it a little bit with my hand. 

Regarding crashing, had two of them since the last reset/bleed, and no noticable air in the system yet.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

jacksonlui said:


> Sounds like it can be an issue if you crash. You'll need to reset it everytime which can get annoying.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


No, not *that* sensitive. I almost want to retract the statement I made, as I have transported it and turned it upside down a few times over the last few days and it has not developed any sag, it's just that it does happen sometimes and doesn't seem to take a lot to do it. I raced the hell out of it on Sat and have put some very hard miles on it and haven't had to reset since.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

If you happen to have one of our remotes:



__ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=437694469916132



Prost! ;-)


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## adagioca (Apr 28, 2004)

I keep noticing how the post is a lot smoother to operate if you are not putting 100% of your weight down. Makes me wonder, is there any additional wear if you activate the lever while fully sitting down vs unweighting it a bit?

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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

No, this is just because initially you will have to work not only against the air pressure inside the post, but also against the additional pressure, which is created by your body weight. So to open the valve inside the post, it will require more force to push. But this is only the initial push on the remote. Once you´re over the threshold, everything is same as always. You should not expect anything to wear faster, when opening, while sitting on it.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

For all, who haven´t noticed, yet:

Vital MTB Face Off: The Best Dropper Seatposts - Mountain Bikes Feature Stories - Vital MTB

Bestenliste Variostützen - Velomotion

Cheers
Sacki


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Congrats Sacki. I'm not surprised by the results of the comparison. It seems like you guys clearly have a better post than all others.

Thanks!


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Wow, thank you so much! Well, I just think we spent a lot of time on making this post, and to be honest, it´s not the first one, we made. We designed it, taking advantage of over 10 years of designing posts for (an)other companie(s). So we know their weak spots and tried to eliminate them or make the already good features even better.  I believe, there is not other team, that has more experience in dropper design than we do. So we tried to pack all this experience in the REVIVE. And belive me: We are still learning!


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Sacki, are the inner parts of the Revive also user serviceable? There is a video that shows how to do the service, but it only covers the outer parts - how to relube it, replace keys, etc.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Yeah, the internals are also fully serviceable. We just don´t have the spare parts online (yet), since we do not expect any internals wear very fast. 
Also: We are no friends of proprietary cartridges for high-end posts, that you just throw away and replace, when you have a problem. If an O-Ring is the problem, then you shoud not need to throw away a whole cartridge. That might be user friendly on the first sight, but it is a waste of 95% good material. 
For cheaper posts, that might be an option, but not for a product, that you pay >300 USD for.
But I guess, society is going towards to being a "throw-away" society. 
Long story short: Every single part of our post is serviceable and replaceable, in case you need it. If we don´t have it in the webshop (because we don´t expect it to wear or break), then you may contact us and we´ll help you out.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

sacki said:


> Yeah, the internals are also fully serviceable. We just don´t have the spare parts online (yet), since we do not expect any internals wear very fast.
> Also: We are no friends of proprietary cartridges for high-end posts, that you just throw away and replace, when you have a problem. If an O-Ring is the problem, then you shoud not need to throw away a whole cartridge. That might be user friendly on the first sight, but it is a waste of 95% good material.
> For cheaper posts, that might be an option, but not for a product, that you pay >300 USD for.
> But I guess, society is going towards to being a "throw-away" society.
> Long story short: Every single part of our post is serviceable and replaceable, in case you need it. If we don´t have it in the webshop (because we don´t expect it to wear or break), then you may contact us and we´ll help you out.


And this is why I bought the Revive! Thanks Sacki! :cornut:


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## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Its definitely a hihh quality dropper. Looking forward to some more improvements in the future like
1. Place a push button to release pressure instead of using a hex key so it can be done during a ride easily. 
2. Remote BT dropper 
3. Easily swap out body between diameters to fit different bikes. This can just be a basic shim that you screw on. 
4. Adjustable damper and body height by stacking parts? Not sure if this is doable without risk of leaking. 
5. Markings on body to easily reposition post without having to measure and maybe a way to guide you to install it straight meaning your seat is inline with the frame.

Thanks. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Hi and thanks for the feedback.

1. We´re working on this and it will be possible to install this small lever to the older versions. It won´t cost much. But no need to wait for this new version, if you are hoping, it wonßt cost more than the one now. Buying the upgrade kit won´t really make a difference to buying the new version. We´ll try to keep the upcharge as low as possible.
2. What exactly do you mean? Bluetooth? This is a few years ahead from now, but for sure, we are thinking about this, already.
3. We already offer swappable lowers. They only cost 40€ including wiper and installed bushing (including worldwide shipping and 19% VAT)
https://www.bikeyoke.de/de/revive-u...?language=de&switch_country=AF&products_id=45
The swap takes less than 5 Minutes and requires to release two circlips and unthread the bottom assembly. That´s all.
Check the video:




Unlike we mention in the video, you don´t even need to release the air. It´s super simple. 
4. I don´t really understand what you mean.
5. We were thinking about this, but we think this is not really neccessary for a dropper post. Once it is set, then you won´t change it again, maybe occasionally. But everyone can make its own mark.
We did one post for Curtis Keene with a scale for insert, but we decided a clean look for series production is nicer:



__ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=407088719643374



Cheers
Sacki


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## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

2. Wireless dropper with minimal lag. KS is coming out with one. The electronics can be part of the seat clamp or collar if possible to have the shortest possible insert depth so it fits more bikes so more ppl buy it as well as making it easy to swap coincell batteries. But it has to have minimal lag. It can also use the battery from the di2 system. You can add a button to the di2 shifter for the dropper for a clean cockpit and the electronics can be housed inside that shifter.

4. Everyone wants a dropper that goes all the way down to the seat collar. It would be nice to buy a 170mm dropper and be able to modify the total drop and the length of the body of the dropper.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## the-ninth (Nov 1, 2013)

Hi Sacki,



sacki said:


> Bestenliste Variostützen - Velomotion


One thing I notice in this test is that they measured only 154mm actual travel. That deviation from the specified height of 160mm is much higher than with the others, which deviate 0-3mm. Is their measurement correct?



sacki said:


> We were thinking about this, but we think this is not really neccessary for a dropper post. Once it is set, then you won´t change it again, maybe occasionally. But everyone can make its own mark.


I'd prefer the scale over the clean look. When fiddling around to find the perfect seat height a scale would be nice, like when trying different positions during a ride.

But that's only a minor nuisance with an otherwise great post! :thumbsup:

Cheers, Robert


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

I got my Revive today and already installed it.
It took me around one hour, but most of the time was spent routing the cable internally on a frame with a non user-friendly internal routing process.
The installation of the seatpost was easily done by following the steps on the user manual, loved the engraved length gauge.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

the-ninth said:


> Hi Sacki,
> 
> One thing I notice in this test is that they measured only 154mm actual travel. That deviation from the specified height of 160mm is much higher than with the others, which deviate 0-3mm. Is their measurement correct?
> 
> ...


We have actually 158-159mm of effective travel. The rest is covered by a bottom out o-ring. 
I can not see the 154mm, which you mentioned.


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## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

The post is nicely machined. You can use a toothpick and fill in a groove with some nail polish as a scale

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Very smart idea!


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## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

I bought a 160 revive thinking it will fit but had to return it because it didn't. I wasnt able to detect the very small narrowing of the seat tube at the bottom. Anyone know where to get a pvc or dowel thats the exact diameter of a dropper to dry fit prior to purchasing? Any tricks? Many mfg can spec max insert but many times you can fit more. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

jacksonlui said:


> (...) Anyone know where to get a pvc or dowel thats the exact diameter of a dropper to dry fit prior to purchasing? Any tricks? Many mfg can spec max insert but many times you can fit more.


Why don't you use a normal seatpost and insert the max you can, take a pencil or some tape, mark it, take it off, and measure it?


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Did you try to rotate the bottom part (where the cable end is place inside). This part can be rotated and you can get some extra clearence, in case there is a pivot or something inside the seattube. However, it won´t help, if the whole ID of the tube narrows down.


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## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

My seatpost is only 125 and i only have 35mm exposed. I was thinking a 160mm will allow to slam it. Probably easier to ask the lbs to do it. I thought maybe something off the shelf already exists. Thx 

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## the-ninth (Nov 1, 2013)

sacki said:


> We have actually 158-159mm of effective travel. The rest is covered by a bottom out o-ring. I can not see the 154mm, which you mentioned.


Thanks for the explanation! I was referring to the "Effektiver Hub" in the section "BikeYoke Revive: Abmessungen Teststütze". But now they already updated the value to 158mm, I guess you wrote to them? 

Regards, Robert


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Hi Sacki,

I have installed my Revive on my carbon frame and used the friction compound from Finish Line, but I want to be able to swap it to my aluminum frame, however I have a doubt.
In the user manual it is written in bold letters "*Do not use grease!*",
But most of the anti-seize compounds are lubricants and some are explicitly grease based. I think I only saw two that don't state they are lubricant's or grease based, one is _'Shimano Anti Seize'_ and the other is _'Motorex Copper Compound Past'_.
So, can I use any anti-seize, or should I get either the Shimano or the Motorex anti-seize, or if you can recommend other product, I will be grateful.

Thx.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Aglo said:


> Hi Sacki,
> 
> I have installed my Revive on my carbon frame and used the friction compound from Finish Line, but I want to be able to swap it to my aluminum frame, however I have a doubt.
> In the user manual it is written in bold letters "*Do not use grease!*",
> ...


Why can't you use friction compound with your aluminum frame? It's STILL a good idea to use friction compound if your seatpost is slipping in an aluminum frame and probably an ever BETTER idea to use it with a dropper post, because it's that much less you have to crank down on the binder, which when you crank down too much, creates a "pinch" and is the number one cause of seatposts not extending correctly.

I think in the manual they are just saying "don't use straight grease".

Anyway, the revive is still doing great, can't say the same about my transfer, seems to be getting worse. We'll see about that, but in the meantime the revive is still solid.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

I assumed:
Carbon = friction paste
Aluminum = anti-seize

It occurred to me that it is as you say, and I just shouldn't use "normal" grease, but I wanted to be sure, just to play on the safe side.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

We just mention, not to use grease because it will reduce friction. If friction paste is based on grease it still dies it´s job: increase friction. So if it is a suitable friction paste for seatposts, then you may use it, no matter if it is grease based, or not.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Still loving my Revive seatpost, but it feels like there may be a little bit of stiction developing. Is there a way to easily lube the top seal or do I have to do a service?

Thanks.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Actually, I don´t think your post needs a service, yet.
Most likely it is the small foam ring at the bottom of the seatpost. This foam ring is a dirt and dust protection, that covers 3 (2 for the very first versions) small holes in the bottom of the post. Those holes allow the post to breath during dropping and extending. If the foam is soaked with oil/water/grease, it may clog the holes and make the post feel sticky during extending and harder to compress, since it will create another air spring in the lower tube. The air can not get in and out fast enough.
That being said, too much grease during a service (and assembly) is not always the best thing to do.
If you remove the big circlip at the bottom of the post then you can slide up the lower tube and you will see the small foam ring. After cleaning this ring, your post should work as smoothly as it used to do. 
Let me know, if it worked.
I´ll add this to the troubleshooting on the website.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Well, bikeyoke 1, fox 0.


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## jaredpbt (Jun 4, 2016)

Jayem said:


> Well, bikeyoke 1, fox 0.


What does that mean?

**edit** 
never mind, I saw your other post on the Fox thread


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

Looks like the best post out there right now, looking to order one up this summer 

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## lightning69 (Mar 16, 2015)

I am about to order but then I realize the prize went up to €369. I guess I will have to pass and consider other dropper.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

The price has always been 349/369€ for 125/160 (including 19% VAT). 
We did noch change anything, When did you see it for a lower price? 
If you are from outside the EU, then just make sure, you select your country, since you won´t have to pay VAT then.


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## lightning69 (Mar 16, 2015)

sacki said:


> The price has always been 349/369€ for 125/160 (including 19% VAT).
> We did noch change anything, When did you see it for a lower price?
> If you are from outside the EU, then just make sure, you select your country, since you won´t have to pay VAT then.


My bad. The last time I saw the price is €310. Last night I went in to check the price and it was €369 with vat. I didn't know international order no need vat. Will place the order this weekend when I get off from the offshore rig.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

This is just a "me too" post. 

Replaced my 125mm Reverb with 160mm Revive. Ordered direct from Bikeyoke, very fast delivery. The package made some furore at my workplace - people were sure that we are dealing with some rare single malt here  

Nothing new about installation or operation: easy and smooth. Post feels much smoother than Reverb did. First ride tomorrow, will see how it works on trail.


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## ghughes.hesinc (Jun 10, 2009)

arnea said:


> This is just a "me too" post.
> 
> Replaced my 125mm Reverb with 160mm Revive. Ordered direct from Bikeyoke, very fast delivery. The package made some furore at my workplace - people were sure that we are dealing with some rare single malt here
> 
> Nothing new about installation or operation: easy and smooth. Post feels much smoother than Reverb did. First ride tomorrow, will see how it works on trail.


Congrats on the post! You're going to love it, mine has been flawless for a couple of months!


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## lightning69 (Mar 16, 2015)

sacki said:


> The price has always been 349/369€ for 125/160 (including 19% VAT).
> We did noch change anything, When did you see it for a lower price?
> If you are from outside the EU, then just make sure, you select your country, since you won´t have to pay VAT then.


Place my order last week. This will be my first real real dropper. My current droppers are TMARS from Taiwan with 90mm travels and its too short for me. Looking forward to receive it soon.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Had a 3 hour ride with lots of dropper action. Revive can be described as "enthusiastic": it likes to go down, it likes to go up, it does it fast on the first command. Reverb on the other hand functions like somebody doing a boring paid job: it goes down when ordered, it goes up when ordered, but there is no passion.


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## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Sounds personal 

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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Still loving my Revive, but it does need to be reset quite a bit. For example, any time I turn my bike upside down, or any time the bike is lifted by the seat and the post is lower than fully extended, it needs to be reset.

It's mildly annoying, but way better than the alternative. Anyone else notice this with their post?


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## ghughes.hesinc (Jun 10, 2009)

69tr6r said:


> Still loving my Revive, but it does need to be reset quite a bit. For example, any time I turn my bike upside down, or any time the bike is lifted by the seat and the post is lower than fully extended, it needs to be reset.
> 
> It's mildly annoying, but way better than the alternative. Anyone else notice this with their post?


Yes, I've experienced both those issues... It's not very often that I have the bike upside down, so that's really been a non-issue and I've gotten used to not lifting the bike by the saddle...

So, all in all, it hasn't been a big deal to me. Outside of a couple of those occasions, its been flawless! Only had to reset it maybe 4 times in three months. When you do a reset, the post is instantly back to perfect operation. Super slick design!


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

ghughes.hesinc said:


> Yes, I've experienced both those issues... It's not very often that I have the bike upside down, so that's really been a non-issue and I've gotten used to not lifting the bike by the saddle...
> 
> So, all in all, it hasn't been a big deal to me. Outside of a couple of those occasions, its been flawless! Only had to reset it maybe 4 times in three months. When you do a reset, the post is instantly back to perfect operation. Super slick design!


Same here, I'm conscious of it so I make sure I don't do those 2 things, or at least plan for it if it has to happen.

It's mostly my buddies don't know to not lift my bike by the saddle, oh well.


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## ghughes.hesinc (Jun 10, 2009)

69tr6r said:


> It's mostly my buddies don't know to not lift my bike by the saddle, oh well.


Tell your buddies to keep their grubby little mitts off your bike


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

69tr6r said:


> Still loving my Revive, but it does need to be reset quite a bit. For example, any time I turn my bike upside down, or any time the bike is lifted by the seat and the post is lower than fully extended, it needs to be reset.
> 
> It's mildly annoying, but way better than the alternative. Anyone else notice this with their post?


Having used two now for a while, this only seems to be an issue during extended upside down, like transporting in the trunk of a car or working on something with the bike upside down. Quick upside down movements (to put on pedals, etc.) don't seem to do anything, plus, it's quick and easy to reset. If anything, this may have happened a little more at first? Maybe it's little better worn in? I've used my 160 dropper now on two ~50 mile rides though Alaskan muck and mud and the thing was totally unphased. I've done lots of smaller rides on it, but these longer rides are where my Specialized and Transfer would slowly grind to a halt. The revive is extremely smooth and easy to modulate (control speed of extension). I still can't find any negatives.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Did you guys find somewhere in the US to buy it for less than $400?

It looks like if I can tolerate a longer shipping time, I can get it direct from Germany for ~$350 at today's exchange, plus whatever fee my credit card hits me with.

I'm really sick of my Reverb. I was looking at the Transfer, PNW Bachelor, and the Revive. I hate doing maintenance, and the Revive is the only new dropper that sounds like they actually attempted to address reliability concerns, so I'm going to give the clever Germans a try.


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## ghughes.hesinc (Jun 10, 2009)

Got mine here:

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=88950

Looks like stock is limited for the time being...


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## the-ninth (Nov 1, 2013)

69tr6r said:


> Still loving my Revive, but it does need to be reset quite a bit. For example, any time I turn my bike upside down, or any time the bike is lifted by the seat and the post is lower than fully extended, it needs to be reset. It's mildly annoying, but way better than the alternative. Anyone else notice this with their post?


For me it seems to be way less frequent. Have 40 rides now on it, and had to reset it maybe four or five times. However two of those are were after the bike was at the shop for some repair work, so I guess it had to do with their storage of the bike. I try not to grab the bike by the seat, but still do it regularly and it for sure does not need a reset every time it happens.


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## Joules (Oct 12, 2005)

Andeh said:


> Did you guys find somewhere in the US to buy it for less than $400?


jenson.

$375, and the 15% off coupons work; ends up being $320 shipped. Got mine in about a week.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Joules said:


> jenson.
> 
> $375, and the 15% off coupons work; ends up being $320 shipped. Got mine in about a week.


Perfect, thanks. I always forget about those coupons because they seem like they never work on what I want!


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

Going direct through Bikeyoke.de will be roughly $325 shipped with no coupon needed. Might be under $320 if the days exchange rate is in your favor. I paid $350 with the I-spec 2 adapter.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Ah you guys must not be using the 31.6/160mm one. I checked both, and decided to get direct from Germany. EU310 with SS bolts & regular Triggy remote (which will sit unopened while I use my WT ReMote). Google's exchange rate puts it at ~$350, Jenson with discount and tax would have been like $375.


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## Joules (Oct 12, 2005)

Andeh said:


> Jenson with discount and tax would have been like $375.


It would still be $336 at Jenson, the big $$ penalty you're facing is living in California.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Joules said:


> ... the big $$ penalty you're facing is living in California.


 Not entirely true, the bigger €€ penalty is living in Europe with 19-21% taxation (VAT), so 160mm Revive post costs ca. $415 (USD equivalent of EUR price incl. tax) .


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

*Small report after +300Km.*

Got my Revive around a month and a half back and have done over 300Km.

I have the 160mm x 31,6mm version.
I weight around 80Kg.

My rides lengths are between 15Km and 65Km and I'm constantly changing the extension, meaning I can do over a hundred actuations on a single ride.
The weather was everything between a 10ºC muddy raining day and 36ºC dusty hot dry.

The Revive behavior is exactly the same since the first day, flawless and smooth.

Report done .

Joking aside, the best way to describe the Revive behavior is the post from *arnea*



arnea said:


> Had a 3 hour ride with lots of dropper action. Revive can be described as "enthusiastic": it likes to go down, it likes to go up, it does it fast on the first command. Reverb on the other hand functions like somebody doing a boring paid job: it goes down when ordered, it goes up when ordered, but there is no passion.


The only time I had to _revive_ the Revive was when I did the dropper installation.

Now, Sacki what are the service intervals on this things? 
Not that I think it needs to be serviced.


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## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

Just installed my 31.6 125mm dropper last night, and it went perfectly. Good instructions and quality parts. I purchased directly from bikeyoke about a week ago and it arrived yesterday. Paid 310 euro which included the ti bolts. Haven't checked to see what conversion it ultimately charged at, but it was much cheaper than local cost when I last checked.

Feels great on the street working perfectly, and can't wait to check it out this weekend. First time with a dropper and think I'll love it.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Not exactly sure, if I understand tat discussion completey, but when you order to me (Germany) from the US, you won´t have to pay my German taxes. The price for a 125mm version is 293€ and the 160mm version costs 310€. Shipping is free and usually takes about 1 week to the US (+/-). When you received the post, of course youßll have to pay your own VAT or sales taxes, or whatever it is called, and you also might need to pay import duties. I am not sur eabout how this is regulated in the US.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Aglo said:


> Got my Revive around a month and a half back and have done over 300Km.
> 
> I have the 160mm x 31,6mm version.
> I weight around 80Kg.
> ...


About service intervals:
We did not specify a strict service interval, since it depends on where you ride, and how often. Basically you should just check your wiper from time to time and make sure, that there is still some lubricant on the extended stanchion. If the stanchion is completely dry, then a little re-grease is adivsed.
If the post is still lubricated, but feels kinda sticky or slow, then you might just wanna check the small foam ring inside the post, which can clog the small breathing hole at the bottom of the post. Then cleaing the foam ring will do the trick most of the time already. 
The hydraulic itself does not require a service (or at least not for a very long time), so this is all what you should do, whenever the post is dry or, when you just feel like your post deserves a refresh:




Don´t use excessive amount of grease, in the lower tube itself, since the foam ring might absorb the grease/oil and clog the holes. It will not make the post more smooth.
P.S.: There is NO need to release the air, before doing the steps explained in the video. This is just for safety reasons, in case anyone opens anything he does not need to open. Why am I saying this: Because some people managed to spray out a good amount of oil together with the air. So, it you don´t need to fiddle with air pressure, then just don´t do it. And if you need to: Hold the post right side up and fully extended and wait a few minutes after a fresh reset, befire you release air. Release the air slowly! In the best case use a pump to release the air.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Another thing to mention:
The chance for the need of a reset is much smaller, if you lay down the bike (for example during a break) or put the bike upside down with the post fully extended the amount of air, that possibly could get inside the inner chamber is very limited and in most cases, nothing will happen at all.
Also: Normally, lifting the bike by the saddle should be OK, since it requires a lot of force to actually pull on the saddle to make the post move.
I can lift my bike easily on the saddle without the post moving. If I want the post to move, I´d have to pull on the saddle and force the rest of the bike to stay down.
Please also check out our FAQ and troubleshooting in the article description for more info:
https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/seatpost-revive-160-30-9.html


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

Installed a Revive on my Switchblade yesterday. Wow. WOW. I can't believe how smooth and effortless this dropper is. Its literally _pleasurable _to press the lever and shove the seat down, its that smooth and precise.

I've used Joplins (hey, we all had to start somewhere back in '09) and Thomsons and Transfers and none of them felt this good out of the box.

If this thing is reliable in the long run, I'd have no problem calling it the best dropper on the market.

The downside is now I hate the Thomson on my other bike, and can't change to Revive because there is no internal routing.


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

Joules said:


> It would still be $336 at Jenson, the big $$ penalty you're facing is living in California.


Order from Universal Cycles and avoid California tax. They have 15% codes posted on the landing page. So California folks can get the same price that us non-California folks enjoy from Jenson.

Although inventory is lean at both Jenson and UC right now, so maybe a moot point for anyone in a hurry.


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## lightning69 (Mar 16, 2015)

InertiaMan said:


> Installed a Revive on my Switchblade yesterday. Wow. WOW. I can't believe how smooth and effortless this dropper is. Its literally _pleasurable _to press the lever and shove the seat down, its that smooth and precise.
> 
> I've used Joplins (hey, we all had to start somewhere back in '09) and Thomsons and Transfers and none of them felt this good out of the box.
> 
> ...


Just drill a small hole on the frame. I have a couple of friends who did that. Off course it void the warranty, but most of them is outside the warranty period already.


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

lightning69 said:


> Just drill a small hole on the frame. I have a couple of friends who did that. Off course it void the warranty, but most of them is outside the warranty period already.


I figured somebody would suggest that. Not so simple in my case. Turner Czar has the pivot bushing assembly for the rocker right in the middle of the seat tube. Even if you were willing to drill carbon, you can't get the cable housing past the pivot. Attempting to drill an entry above the pivot also isn't an option, since it would severely limit the seatpost insertion, and there is no external path for the housing in/around/through the rocker.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

InertiaMan said:


> I figured somebody would suggest that. Not so simple in my case. Turner Czar has the pivot bushing assembly for the rocker right in the middle of the seat tube. Even if you were willing to drill carbon, you can't get the cable housing past the pivot. Attempting to drill an entry above the pivot also isn't an option, since it would severely limit the seatpost insertion, and there is no external path for the housing in/around/through the rocker.


Are you certain that you can't snake the cable past the pivot? Reason I ask is I'm fairly certain that DT drilled a hole in his wife's czar for a dropper.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Well that stinks. I thought I wanted a Czar over my 429SL, but that'd one definite mark against it. Keeping an XC bike light and putting a dropper on makes for quite a versatile ride, while others are thinking that they need 67° HA for any terrain, the dropper makes the tough and downhill stuff way easier while retaining your sharp steering and climbing for when you need it.


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

incubus said:


> Are you certain that you can't snake the cable past the pivot? Reason I ask is I'm fairly certain that DT drilled a hole in his wife's czar for a dropper.


My XXL has absolutely no path past the pivot. You can look down the seattube and see that carbon fills the entire tube.
My frame was one of two original XXL frames, sort of pre-production stage, so perhaps there is some variability in manufacturing, or among sizes?


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## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Any plans on. 175 or 180mm dropper?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Anyone from Canada order one of these? Did DHL hand it off to Canada post? What sort of brokerage fees/duty?


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

No 175 or 18*0* dropper planned.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I ordered one. My other option was the 9Point8. Really hoping that this is the ONE.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

sacki said:


> No 175 or 18*0* dropper planned.


Ha! ...Sneaky 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I emailed, and asked if the Revive was totally rebuildable at home. This is the reply.


Actually our post is fully user-serviceable. You donßt need any special tool. The most "exotic" ones would be retaining ring pliers.
No charging tools or syringes needed.
But of course you should have a little bit of experience in seuspension service.
However, we do not expect the inner parts of the hydrulic system needed to befixed in a long time. They will wear very slowly.
The main service is the outer tube service and pin exchange (if neccessary a bushing exchange).

Cheers


I am stoked that 3 years from now I can order whatever I need, and rebuild everything at home.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Travis Bickle said:


> Anyone from Canada order one of these? Did DHL hand it off to Canada post? What sort of brokerage fees/duty?


FWIW, for me, it was Deutsche Post who handed it off to USPS, and I didn't pay any brokerage/import fees. I don't know what Canada's regulations are like. In the past when I've ordered stuff from overseas, I've only had to pay import fees on packages that came in by DHL (ski bindings from France), but not when it came in through USPS (carbon wheels from China).

Total cost that showed up on my bank statement (payed by Paypal) was ~$355 (including exchange rate and any fees) for the 310 EU 31.6/160mm/Triggy/SS bolt model. Delivery time was about a week from order to delivery in California... pretty quick for going halfway around the world!


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

sacki said:


> Another thing to mention:
> The chance for the need of a reset is much smaller, if you lay down the bike (for example during a break) or put the bike upside down with the post fully extended the amount of air, that possibly could get inside the inner chamber is very limited and in most cases, nothing will happen at all.
> Also: Normally, lifting the bike by the saddle should be OK, since it requires a lot of force to actually pull on the saddle to make the post move.
> I can lift my bike easily on the saddle without the post moving. If I want the post to move, I´d have to pull on the saddle and force the rest of the bike to stay down.
> ...


What about hanging my bike on the wall vertically wheels first? I tend to hang all my mountain bikes this way. Would this be considered upside down and cause the need for resets? I always leave my dropper posts fully extended except when in use.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Hanging the bike on the wall with the post extened should not cause too many issues regarding a needed reset afterwards. If air goes inside, then it can only be very very little (if at all).


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## adagioca (Apr 28, 2004)

Hope this is an easy fix but my post won't go down anymore. I can still actuate the remote/cable but it takes a lot more force to move it. Same with the reset hex. Does not seem to budge anymore. Any quick tip to get it working again?

Thanks!


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

adagioca said:


> Hope this is an easy fix but my post won't go down anymore. I can still actuate the remote/cable but it takes a lot more force to move it. Same with the reset hex. Does not seem to budge anymore. Any quick tip to get it working again?
> Thanks!


Did you serviced the internals and changed the oil?


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## bvader (Sep 13, 2009)

I am so tired already with my Reverb... 

So I am all loaded up with a 31.6 160mm at UC with discount, $338 very reasonable... still waffling a bit between Review and Transfer, not sure why, just need to be pushed over the edge.

Mr. Bickle ... have you received and installed... do you approve?

EDIT: Well I pushed the button, (that didn't take too long).. so the waiting begins...


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I think it will be here Monday


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

Has anyone tried a Revive with a KS vertical remote, i.e. the remote that can clamp to an ODI lock on grip? As far as I can tell, all the US retailers sell the Revive with the Triggy remote. Jenson sells both remotes separately, but they won't do the swap. I'm wondering if I can use my KS Lev remote with the Revive.

Edit: New customer.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

happyriding said:


> Has anyone tried a Revive with a KS vertical remote, i.e. the remote that can clamp to an ODI lock on grip? As far as I can tell, all the US retailers sell the Revive with the Triggy remote. Jenson sells both remotes separately, but they won't do the swap. I'm wondering if I can use my KS Lev remote with the Revive.
> 
> Edit: New customer.


Since they are both cable actuated, I would think so. But all Revive's come with the remote, so if you're looking to save some cash by getting just the post, it probably won't happen. If you just like the feel of the KS better, you could try selling the Triggy to recoup some cash.


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## bigolclyde (Aug 1, 2011)

jacksonlui said:


> Sounds like it can be an issue if you crash. You'll need to reset it everytime which can get annoying.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Wrong. I've turned mine over multiple times on the trail to fix bike issues, no sag. I've crashed a couple times, once pretty hard with the bike sailing down a steep section of trail. No sag.

Only time I got sag after the initial install and "revive" was when I had it in the bikestand (clamped onto the dropper) for a full day. 5 seconds to do the "revive" and it was as good as new (no vertical play).


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

BXCc said:


> Since they are both cable actuated, I would think so. But all Revive's come with the remote, so if you're looking to save some cash by getting just the post, it probably won't happen.


Nope. I want the 2-by remote.

UniversalCycles will allow you to choose whichever remote you want when you purchase the post.



> I've turned mine over multiple times on the trail to fix bike issues, no sag. I've crashed a couple times, once pretty hard with the bike sailing down a steep section of trail. No sag.


I've had some experience with crash induced sag. I have a KS Lev 150mm (external), which has been very reliable for me, and I weighed 235 lbs geared up. But if my saddle takes a hard blow in a crash, then the KS Lev immediately starts sagging due to air getting forced into the oil. That happened three times to me in three years, and the next day I headed over to the "DIY KS Service" thread, and I performed a full service on my post, and a few hours later it was like new again. I keep spares on hand for the dust wiper, bushing, copper guides, and o-rings and quad rings, and when I do a full service I replace those as necessary.

I expect crash induced sag could happen with the Revive as well. As long as the Revive can be easily serviced that's all I care about.

I've never experienced sag from turning my bike over on the trail to fix something, which I do fairly often. The KS Lev remote sucks for turning over your bike trailside: I have to find rocks to put under each grip, so that the remote doesn't get smashed. I expect, I'll have to do the same thing with for the Revive 2-by remote.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

happyriding said:


> Nope. I want the 2-by remote.
> 
> UniversalCycles will allow you to choose whichever remote you want when you purchase the post.


I just checked out the BikeYoke site and saw the 2-by remote. That must be fairly new. The UC site states that it's available separately and that the Triggy is included. That's cool if they will swap it for you.

Not sure what discount you are getting from the $397 list price at UC, but for 310 euro's (360ish USD) you could get the 160 version shipped direct from Sacki with either remote. The 125 is cheaper if that's your flavor.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Kept clipping pedals in a race last week due to the poor Xpedo cleats and popping out, knocked saddle and post hard enough to knock my seat loose (foward in the rails), a real hard impact as I had slipped off the pedals and hit something at the same time. Post was fine, still rock hard. Still works all the time. I've only had the sag issue setting it upside down for extended periods or setting it down on the side to transport it in a car, like when I'm on vacation. But momentarily turning it upside down or walking down the stairs with the bike vertical, seems like I can do that all day and it never needs resets. Since I don't ever lay my bikes down intentionally, resets are few and far between.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I received the post this morning, installation was easy, reset, test ride on street felt great. Hitting the trails again tomorrow and expect good things. I ordered the ti bolts, and they are T25, instead of hex, which seems like a good idea. Not sure if I like the triggy more than the RF remote, and I may swap back.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I did my first ride and the action is so smooth and light that it was a bit awkward. This is going to take a few rides to get used to


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

Travis Bickle said:


> I did my first ride and the action is so smooth and light that it was a bit awkward. This is going to take a few rides to get used to


And then all posts will seem inferior.

I'm a huge fan of the speed modulation. Push just a bit and the post comes up slow, push it completely, and you'll quickly here the post topping out reassuring you that all is right in the world.


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## tim709 (Nov 23, 2008)

Hey Travis,

Did you dinged with customs/brokerage?


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

The customs declaration was labeled "MTB seat post", and this led customs to assume it was an auto part. I was billed PST (BC has no PST on bikes and parts) and duty to the tune of $65ish. I had the option of sending it back to Canada Border Services for revaluation, or paying and claiming it back. I filled out the form, included all the documentation, and sent it in. I should be reimbursed the PST and duty. I emailed Bikeyoke explaining this, and they will label packages as bicycle parts in the future to avoid confusion.


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## tim709 (Nov 23, 2008)

Thanks Travis


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## bvader (Sep 13, 2009)

So I finally got time to install and experience the Revive.

I got mine from Universal Cycles when the had a coupon $338 no tax (in CA) no shipping, pretty awesome.

Other have posted weight etc, here is a pic of the packaging etc. exudes modern industrial design. BTW just hand to hand, this is lighter than my reverb for sure. 








*Installation:*

Was pretty straight forward but here are a couple minor lessons learned. (most of you obviously figured this out on your own) I am a mid level wrench.

1) Cable Housing Length.

The manual says cut the cable housing at the to top of the seat tube collar after fitting for length. (which I did) Then shorten 90mm for minimum insertion... _minimum insertion_ being the operative phrase. Of course for me I need my seat significantly lower took me a moment to think about. I knew my seat post clamp to rail distance from old post (marked it before I took it out) ... did all the math etc. and worked it out.

But then I just measured the rail to seat post clamp distance, put some blue painter tape at the point on the Yoke seat post, then just measured the distance from the tape to the bottom of the seat post cylinder. That gave me a cm or two extra length. Perfect fit. Its my bike and legs, don't need a bunch of extra cable.

2) Attaching the Locking Cable End (hope this makes sense)

I followed the instruction measured my 17mm and attached the Locking Cable End secured it. Already back of my head knew this wasn't going to work perfect. Sure enough when I cut the inner cable as close as I could with my nice pair of cable cutters it was not flush. Makes sense my Cable cutters are symmetrical blades so it cut the cable the blades width long about 1.5mm since that is as close as I could get to the Locking Cable End. No worries I pulled out my cheapy wire cutters that are flat on one side and trimmed it up good.

Next time I will put on the locking cable, measure out the the 17mm, only slightly tighten the end, mark the wire (probably with my favorite blue tape), then back off the locking end, cut the cable exactly, then slide the cable end back into position and tighten it. Then it will be perfectly flush.

Super Nit: I guess I would rather cut the inner cable at the trigger than the post, seems to be the direction some posts are headed.

3) Minor reminder. 
Once you have everything I would exercise the post some. I did not need to "Revive" mine solid right from the get go, but I would exercise it a bit and then wipe the post clean as you can, clearly there is a little extra lube in a good way, I just wanted it really clean before I took it out. Silly for some reason I can't wait to try out the Revive.. but hey if I never need to that is just OK too.

*Ok so on to the post...*

Nice clean looking post, black goes with my Bronson motif.








First everyone says smooth, and of course I have to say Yup smoooooth, and I think for me is that means low effort to depress. Also there is no big initial stiction point. It operates at a lower pressure than most the competitors yet it extend at a nice reasonably quick velocity. (leads me to believe the fewer seals = less friction / stiction) I can easily depress it with just my hand, don't have to do that whole bend over and lean on it thing.

I have no fore / aft play at all, and super minimal rotational less my others (All droppers). The post is solid, the seat clamp is simple but well designed / sturdy.

I have the Triggy lever.. Like it A lot!, Nice Size, the "aerated" approach is tactile and looks cool (I am already going faster), attached it to my matchmaker and whullah... nice fit, almost like it was designed that way 








Today's ride was uneventful (which it should be, although with Droppers who knows). Compressed when it should have extended when it should and as other mentioned easy to modulate with the Triggy. Feels very solid even when I was grinding away up the climbs. No creaking, tested play afterwards no for aft, same super minimal rotation.

Sounds silly will actual take a ride or two to get used to the extra 10ish mm of drop.

*Summary: *
I am a super happy camper at this point (I know the new component crush), my Reverb just flat out let me down (several times), I was never really happy with it, I have friends that love them, just didn't work for me real well. I liked my KS after I got it rebuilt, but some reason the engineering always left me guessing a bit. (that little kevlar string etc)

But NOW I have a Revive... seriously I think if this post was a "big brand" it would be the leading sold post by far, BUT I already really appreciate the thoughtful engineering. The only thing left is long term durability and I think I will be really surprised if it doesn't shine there as well.

Very happy I have been Revived! ... Well Done BikeYoke!


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

I'm still loving mine. I've had it about a month now, riding twice a week, and haven't had to reset once. The travel is perfection... smooth and quick like my KS, but without any of their wobble or play, yet easy to compress. I would 100% recommend it to any of my friends.

BTW, the worst part of installation (precisely cutting the cable length) goes away if you use a Wolf Tooth lever.


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## the-ninth (Nov 1, 2013)

BikeYoke announced the post in 185mm, and a lever for the reset.

https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/dropper-posts/revive-185
https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/quick-reset-lever.html


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## bvader (Sep 13, 2009)

My timing sometimes...sigh... seems like I should have waited a few more weeks to get the latest updates, seems like there are some minor updates to the bottom connector. OTOH I had no seatpost so the timing was right/needed. 

Question if needed would I be able to swap out the rotating bottom connector if I so desired / needed to.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

The bottom connector has always been rotateable. ;-)
You can just rotate it by hand, without disassmebling the post. Please rotate it clockwise.


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## bvader (Sep 13, 2009)

@sacki Good to know thanks. 

Several rides in, post is *solid* and smooth!


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

Just intsalled on my HD3: latest version 125x31.6 it is VERY well made and ultra-thought-through (including a laser etching gauge to measure the 17 mm cut!). Very happy with it, see http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenies/bikeyoke-revive-droppost-1052468.html for weights


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## c3024446 (Apr 16, 2010)

Anyone else out there have the return of the post sometimes fast or slow and Notchy?

My seatpost clamp is pretty loose, but hopefully tight enough, any tighter and it starts notching on the return towards the end of the stroke...,


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I've been on the Revive for a couple of weeks, and am impressed so far. I just got around to putting my 2nd bike back together, and reinstalled my old KS Lev Integra. At first I thought the cable tension was off, but it was good. It feels like something is wrong with it compared to the Revive. I may have to order another.


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## coolatt (May 18, 2004)

I have had a KS LEV DX for about 3 years. I have been happy with it's performance with one exception; the clamping mechanism is terrible. I am 180lb, I don't consider myself to be aggressive and only ride 2-3 hours a week. Aside from the constant creaking and sliding back of the saddle, I have bent the lower clamp twice and upper clamp once. I replaced the the lower clamp with a new one and used a Truvativ Hussefelt plate on the top. This helped until I broke the barrel nuts from the Hussefelt mid-ride on two separate occasions. Now it's creaking like crazy and I'm expect something break again on the next ride.

Today I ordered the Revive from UC after going through this forum and some reviews of other posts. I am a bit concerned about the clamp however, the top plate doesn't have a lot of surface area on top of the rails. I have not read any complaints about creaking or slippage. Will I be a happy camper?


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## the-ninth (Nov 1, 2013)

No problems with slipping saddle, but I had some creaking. It was caused by dust getting between the clamp and the saddle rails, after cleaning both the creaking went away. Last few rides it started a bit again, so I guess another cleaning is in order. 

I have now 60 rides with 1,100 kilometers on the Revive and it is still going strong. It does need a reset quite often, looking forward to getting that reset lever.


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## bvader (Sep 13, 2009)

Those of use with KS Lev often had the same issues, I deformed my clamp trying to keep it tight / not slipping, the clamp to me was its week point (besides that weird piece of kevlar string), then someone suggested some red loctite on the rails, I was so frustrated I got new clamp parts and tried that what the Heck, never had a problem again.

I feel the clamp on the Revive is stouter than the Lev. I just did 4K of grinding and up down punch climbs in dusty dry conditions this weekend... no issues.

EDIT: For reference currently I weigh 200 all geared up


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

coolatt said:


> I have had a KS LEV DX for about 3 years. I have been happy with it's performance with one exception; the clamping mechanism is terrible. I am 180lb, I don't consider myself to be aggressive and only ride 2-3 hours a week. Aside from the constant creaking and sliding back of the saddle, I have bent the lower clamp twice and upper clamp once. I replaced the the lower clamp with a new one and used a Truvativ Hussefelt plate on the top. This helped until I broke the barrel nuts from the Hussefelt mid-ride on two separate occasions. Now it's creaking like crazy and I'm expect something break again on the next ride.
> 
> Today I ordered the Revive from UC after going through this forum and some reviews of other posts. I am a bit concerned about the clamp however, the top plate doesn't have a lot of surface area on top of the rails. I have not read any complaints about creaking or slippage. Will I be a happy camper?


I had a Lev DX on a previous bike, and it creaked like crazy, no matter what I did (changing torque, loctite on bolts, changing saddles a few times, changing saddle position). No creaking on the Revive, even using exactly the same saddle (WTB Rocket w/ Ti rails). I only weigh like 155 without gear, but even I had the Lev DX creak. I've heard the same complaint from lots of others too.


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## The Dude (Jan 19, 2004)

Can you use a seatpost shim with this post?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

I am not really a fan of Shims in seattubes, but we have customers using them with shims in 34.9 frames. Just make sure, the shim is long enough and covers the minimum insertion depth. If used a Shim, I´d get one from Syntace, since they offer it in 140mm length:
https://www.bike-components.de/de/Syntace/Post-Shim-Light-31-6-Reduzierhuelse-p34182/
Anyway, I can not guarantee perfect function, when using a shim, but I have heard no complaints so far.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Any plans for a 34.9 Revive?


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

We were thinking about it, but honestly there are too few brands, using a 34.9 seat tube.
It would be quite easy to make a "34.9 post", but if we made a 34.9 seatpost, then it would not just be a bigger lower tube but also on the top side. And then there is a lot of room, for fancy features. But so far, there is not enough frames to support a 34.9 post.


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## Joel Fitzgerald (Feb 4, 2014)

I've recently got a bikeyoke revive, 160mm. Previously had a 125mm ks lev which was faultless for 2 years of use. Changed to bikeyoke as wanted something a bit longer and heard a lot of good reviews.

But wondering if it isn't the right dropper for me.. My bike pretty much lives in the back of my station wagon, on it's side. This never seemed an issue for the kslev. But I am finding that most times I ride the bike the dropper is spongy and needs the reset done.

Guess i'm asking, will this ever change? Or because the bike is usually stored on its side, this problem will always be ongoing?
Thanks
Joel


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## the-ninth (Nov 1, 2013)

Joel Fitzgerald said:


> But wondering if it isn't the right dropper for me.. My bike pretty much lives in the back of my station wagon, on it's side. This never seemed an issue for the kslev. But I am finding that most times I ride the bike the dropper is spongy and needs the reset done. Guess i'm asking, will this ever change? Or because the bike is usually stored on its side, this problem will always be ongoing?


It would only change if you are able to store the bike with the dropper extended. My experience is also that with the seat dropped, you need to take extra care when lifting or laying down the bike, or otherwise reset often. With the dropper extended, you can handle it care-free. 

BikeYoke is also releasing a lever for the reset, which makes the process even easier, because you do not need to get out a multi-tool. With the lever it should be really no trouble to do the reset before every ride.

Regards, Robert

Edit: here the link to the lever, you can also retrofit it to the post you already have:

https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/quick-reset-lever.html


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## Joel Fitzgerald (Feb 4, 2014)

Sorry didn't mean I leave it down. Always extended, but on its side. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I have had my bike flipped upside down a lot recently, and it has not needed a reset. I'm sad though because my Lev, although working great, feels like garbage in comparison.


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## bvader (Sep 13, 2009)

I have yet to Revive... its almost bumming me out. I now probably have close to 25K+ ft climbing (grinding) and descending, including some very active trails, a washout and a Benny Hill style uphill fall-over... no issues at all, still as solid and smooth as Day 1. I wipe it down after / before every ride (Habit)


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Small update on my mileage with the Revive.

Since May I have done over 800Km(500 miles) with it, over 15Km(50k ft) of accumulated elevation and equal amount of descent because I only do round rides, don't even know how many actuations I did, one time I tried to count the number of actuations on my fitness/normal/un-stress ride that's around 20Km~25Km and ~400m accumulated elevation, but I lost the count on the uphill :lol:

It's still working like new, despite the extremely dusty trails I have been doing this last couple of months.
I wipe the stanchion after almost every ride.

I'm yet to have to Revive the damn thing.
I do take care to avoid doing something that would make me use the revive valve. But there isn't much I can do during crashes.
And I always carry my bike on the rooftop, or fully extended on the rare occasions I carry the bike on the trunk.
Nevertheless, I'm going to buy the Revive lever while it's still at the discount price .


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## coolatt (May 18, 2004)

To Travis Bickle

I'm in vancouver and ordered from Universal Cycles. I had to pay about $35 to Canada Post for brokerage and gst. 
Shipping to Canada is $49 but I was able to google search a code for a discount which basically covered thag cost. 
I beleive I paid about $525 cdn all in.


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## coolatt (May 18, 2004)

bvader said:


> Those of use with KS Lev often had the same issues, I deformed my clamp trying to keep it tight / not slipping, the clamp to me was its week point (besides that weird piece of kevlar string), then someone suggested some red loctite on the rails, I was so frustrated I got new clamp parts and tried that what the Heck, never had a problem again.
> 
> I feel the clamp on the Revive is stouter than the Lev. I just did 4K of grinding and up down punch climbs in dusty dry conditions this weekend... no issues.
> 
> EDIT: For reference currently I weigh 200 all geared up


31.6 / 160mm Revive

So I've had my first longish ride on this post and I have some minor seat slippage (seat sliding back). Are you guys using the recommended torque (5nm) and /or any other tricks?

I also noticed a very small amount of forward/backward movement of the stanchion at full extension, that decreases as the post is lowered. Anyone else have this? I'd say my 3 year old LEV has zero forward/backward movement, but definitely more rotational movement.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Another hardcore XC race done (1000' vertical per 3.5 mile lap) at the local ski resort using the DH trails with some fun obstacles. Mud flying everywhere. This is on the spindly XC bike, so just making down these trails seems wrong, but with the Revive, it's cake. So much fun!


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

My older KS Lev started to sag. I had thought about selling it, but the service and shipping ain't cheap in Canada, so I would maybe get $15 out of it. I may just give it away. Anyway, I ordered another Revive and with a 15% code got it a couple of $ cheaper from Jenson than from Bikeyoke. Owning one spoiled me, so now both bikes will be primo.


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## DABIK (Sep 17, 2010)

Just adding to the positive feedback on the revive; great post and excellent customer service. I've been on mine for about 30 rides/450 miles over the summer and it's been perfect.


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## prosto_mtb (Jan 7, 2017)

Travis Bickle said:


> My older KS Lev started to sag. I had thought about selling it, but the service and shipping ain't cheap in Canada, so I would maybe get $15 out of it. I may just give it away.


Lev is so easy to service at home, I don't see reasons to send it for service.

Actually, I want to try out 185mm Revive, but my Lev is still going strong


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

Any heavy riders on the Revive? 220-230lbs. Looking at the 185. I noticed that there is a 115kg fully geared weight limit. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

I'm 220lbs, using 160mm Revive for two months. No problems whatsoever. Never had to use the revive function either.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Last two days to order your Revive lever at discount.
I just ordered mine plus the Service kit, so I could get the free shipping .



coolatt said:


> 31.6 / 160mm Revive
> (...)
> I also noticed a very small amount of forward/backward movement of the stanchion at full extension, that decreases as the post is lowered. Anyone else have this? I'd say my 3 year old LEV has zero forward/backward movement, but definitely more rotational movement.


Same model and also noticed the small amount of forward/backward play, didn't bothered me, and also don't notice it during the ride.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I haven't needed the revive feature since the installation, so I don't see the need for a lever.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Travis Bickle said:


> I haven't needed the revive feature since the installation, so I don't see the need for a lever.


I also did not need it yet, but in case I forget to bring the tool kit with me on a long ride, and I need to revive it, I decided to buy lever.
Just to be safe.


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## bvader (Sep 13, 2009)

I ordered plus the service kit and and extra cable clamp those suckers are small ....


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Travis Bickle said:


> I haven't needed the revive feature since the installation, so I don't see the need for a lever.


If you turn the bike upside down to work on it, or lay it down, and especially if you transport it in a car on it's side, it can allow you to quickly reset without a tool. I've noticed the biggest issue is with transporting in car, something about the bumps or road vibration seems to contaminate it and it sinks down half an inch or something until reset. I do this often on vacations when I rent a car, so it's not something i encounter transporting the bike on a rack like I usually do. Next, putting it upside down, most of the time I've noticed this too will cause a little contamination. It's not absolutely necessary to flip the bike on the trail for a repair of a wheel or something else, but often times it's more convenient and it would be nice to have the quick-feature. Lastly, laying it down on the trail for a minute or two, doesn't seem to affect it, but again, it's nice having the piece of mind that you can reset it anywhere without digging out a tool. It's hard to anticipate everything you do with a bike, but I've put these things through some hard riding and racing. I may have gotten it to sink a little during my only bad crash of the season when the bike flipped, but I was out anyways due to a burped front tire and no CO2. I can't remember if the seatpost did anything or not for sure, but I know it's been solid all over the place in all sorts of riding, but you are also kidding yourself if you don't think this design isn't more susceptible to this phenomena. It doesn't happen often and it's totally worth it for me, as my Transfer post feels comparatively like an old manitou that hasn't been greased in 10 years. The ability to get the much more rapid action from the Revive allows you to react that much faster on a bike, which is a good thing.

But my thoughts on the lever are it's not a bad idea. I will probably keep the one on my long-travel bike and install the other on my XC bike when I take it places.


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## Briareos (Aug 2, 2011)

Just ordered a Revive in 125 drop from Universal Cycles to replace the Bontrager post on my Slash. Also ordered two of their ISpecB adapters, as I am hoping to use one to mount my SRAM shifter to Saint brake lever (another upgrade) on right side, and Triggy on left...

Quick question, what is the microvalve membrane upgrade?

"It only happens when you turn your bike upside down (say, if you transport your bike) and BikeYoke says this problem will be overcome with the new Microvalve membrame on the new posts, out in July."

as quoted from

BikeYoke Revive dropper post review - MBR


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

> Quick question, what is the microvalve membrane upgrade?


One reason that dropper posts fail and start sagging is that inside the post air somehow gets into the hydraulic oil. For instance, that can happen after a crash when the saddle takes a hard blow. The "revive" feature lets you turn a hex bolt, then compress the post, and all the air will get purged out of the oil, which will get rid of any sag exhibited by your dropper post.

But if you can keep the air away from the oil in the first place that would be better. The membrane helps keep the air and the oil separate.


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## the-ninth (Nov 1, 2013)

happyriding said:


> But if you can keep the air away from the oil in the first place that would be better. The membrane helps keep the air and the oil separate.


Would be interesting to know if this can be retrofitted to older posts, does anybody know?


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

the-ninth said:


> Would be interesting to know if this can be retrofitted to older posts, does anybody know?


I'm guessing no, but I may be wrong. I say this because they announced the membrane enhancement along with the tool less lever and they specifically called out the lever as being retrofit-able but didn't say anything re: the membrane.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

the-ninth said:


> Would be interesting to know if this can be retrofitted to older posts, does anybody know?


I read in some announcement that it cannot be retro fitted.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Peanut butter. Finally figured it out. That's what it feels like is in other posts after riding Revive


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Finally it happened, I'm so happy to finally had to use the Revive after a crash .
Not so happy about the bruises, though.
And guess what, I didn't carry my tool kit because I was lazy.

So, *sacki*, when do you estimate start shipping the levers?


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## Kirkerik (Apr 21, 2016)

adagioca said:


> Hope this is an easy fix but my post won't go down anymore. I can still actuate the remote/cable but it takes a lot more force to move it. Same with the reset hex. Does not seem to budge anymore. Any quick tip to get it working again?
> 
> Thanks!


I'm considering this post. Has anyone had this similar issue or know the reason for this happening?


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

> My older KS Lev started to sag.


Do you know about the DIY KS Service thread? I've done the full oil service 2-3 times, and I've done the basic service 4-5 times. My 150mm KS Lev (external routing) works like new after a service. I like the fact that I never have to deal with KS and that I can service my post in the morning and be riding that afternoon.



> I have not read any complaints about creaking or slippage. Will I be a happy camper?


With dropper posts, you'll be a happy camper only if the post proves to be durable, and it's too early to know that.

Creaking complaint here with a 160mm/31.6 Revive. I weigh 250 lbs geared up. When I first heard a popping/cracking noise, I thought it was from a dry post, but after applying an additional excessive amount of carbon paste to the insertion portion of the post, there was no improvement. A few days later, I removed the saddle and I slathered grease on the saddle rails, saddle clamp, bolts, and nuts; but there was still no improvement. A few days after that, I thought, "Ah hah, the seat post clamp!". I removed the seat post clamp, and I put some carbon paste on that. No improvement.

I could reproduce the popping/cracking noise by alternately using my forearm to push on the nose of the saddle then the rear of the saddle (a brand new WTB Silverado Pro). I put my ear by the saddle rails, and it sounded like the noise was coming from the area of the rails.

A few days later, I removed the saddle and I dripped White Lightning down the saddle rails where they attach to the saddle. No improvement.

After enduring the popping/cracking noise for a few more days, I removed the saddle and cleaned off all the grease that I had previously applied, and I applied fresh grease, then I examined every surface of the clamp mechanism where it touched another piece of metal. The lower clamp piece has a semi circular machined portion that controls the saddle tilt, and I applied a drop of White Lightning to my (gloved) finger, and I wiped it on the semi circular machined surface to give it a thin coat of wax. I did the same thing to the top of the seat post where it mates against the lower clamp piece. Then I reassembled, and I gave the saddle the forearm test, and I couldn't make the post pop/crack/creak anymore. I took the bike for a test ride, and the popping/cracking noise was gone.

Installation tips:

You may wonder why you need to first put the barrel on the cable before you measure and cut the cable. After you cut the cable, you may not be able to get the barrel over the cut end of the cable. If the cut is clean, and you twist the end of the cable so that there are no stray wires, then you should be able to get the cable through the barrel--but it's easier if you slip on the barrel first. The instructions say to cut off the excess cable after you clamp the barrel onto the cable, which means there is going to be a nub extending out of the barrel. I don't think that matters. [Edit: Yes, the nub matters. There has to be less than 1mm of nub sticking out the top of the barrel or else the nub will get in the way when you try to hook up the cable to the bottom of the post. When I clamped the barrel in place, and cut the cable with my cable cutters as close to the barrel as possible, the nub was too long.]

I think that from installing my KS Lev post, I thought the 17mm of cable sticking out of the housing had to be exact, so I strayed from the instructions at that point, and I removed the barrel, then I wrapped some tape around the cable and while pulling on the cable end, I measured exactly 17mm with some calipers, and I slid the edge of the tape along the cable to the 17mm distance. Then I cut the cable right at the edge of the tape.

In hindsight, it would have been easier to lightly clamp the barrel on the cable, then use the guide printed on the end of the post to position the barrel, then clamp the barrel all the way down, then cut the cable as close as possible to the edge of the barrel. I don't think a small nub of cable sticking out of the barrel will affect anything.[Edit: Wrong! The nub has to be very short. When I cut the cable off with the barrel clamped in place, the nub was too long.]

I was pretty tired when I installed my post, and I followed the instructions without considering the consequences of what I was doing. On my XL frame, the housing was too short for an easy install because with the proper loop of slack for the housing on the front of the bike, the end of the housing was 45mm down inside my seat tube, so I followed the instructions and removed the remote from the handlebars. Then I cut 45mm (rather than 90mm) off the end of the housing, but once I installed the post, there was no way to get the remote back onto the bars. Whoops. I don't know why the instructions say to remove the remote from the handlebars.

I ended up installing the remote on the bars, then turning the bars to make the distance that the housing had to reach to the remote much shorter. With my handlebars turned, I could get the housing to protrude slightly from the top of my seat tube. Two ruined cables later, I had everything installed.

My advice is not to cut the cable until your remote is installed on the bars, and you are satisfied with the routing of the housing in relation to the other cables jutting out from your bars. Also, once I had the remote and housing set up, I noticed there was 1-2mm of play in the cable, so I measured the 17mm distance while I pulled up on the end of the cable.

I also dialed out the barrel adjuster so that it was at its midpoint before measuring and cutting the cable.

Review:

After I got everything installed, I did not have to revive my post--it worked perfectly straight away. The action was buttery smooth. My saddle had no play in any direction. I was worried that the post wouldn't return fast enough, but it returns as fast as my KS Lev 150mm, and it makes a resounding whack! when it hits the end of the travel, which is louder than the thunk! my KS Lev makes when it hits the end of the travel. I like to be able to hear my post hit the end of its travel while riding, so the louder noise is welcome. Sometimes with my KS Lev, I wasn't sure if the post had extended all the way.

I'm using the 2-by trigger and it's a little longer than my KS Lev trigger, which was already a tight fit near my shifter. The way I positioned the remote was to first setup my brakes and shifter, then I rotated the 2-by remote counter clockwise until the 90 degree noodle hit the top of my brake lever. I pushed on the noodle so that it lay flat against the lever, then I tightened the screw on the remote. The idea is that if I crash, I want the noodle to be able rotate until it lays flat on top of the brake lever, rather than bend or snap in half when it gets levered at an angle against the brake lever. I positioned the remote horizontally so that it just clears the end of my shifter. As a result, I hit the end of my thumb on my shifter after I depress the 2-by remote, but I touch the shifter at the wrong angle, so it doesn't shift gears. I'll just have to get used to that.

On my test ride, I noticed that the post exerts less force than my KS Lev when extending. Sometimes, I use my inner thigh to regulate the upward extension, and the post doesn't exert as much pressure against my thigh as my KS Lev.

I haven't needed to revive my post yet. I've ridden 160 miles with the post, but only on the street, and I lay my bike down occasionally.

Personally, I don't like the internal routing. I don't clamp my dropper posts in my workstand--instead I replace the dropper with a beater post, and when my bike is on my bike rack, I like to remove the dropper post and put it inside my car. Removing a dropper post with internal routing is too much of a pain.

Now we'll see about durability.

IMG_0187 by online images, on Flickr


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## coolatt (May 18, 2004)

Does anyone know the upper post tube diameter. I don't have any calipers.

I want to maybe get this clamp-on travel limiter from wolftooth and there are two sizes.
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/valais-25

24.75-25.25mm
26-26.5mm


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

I measured 25.1mm


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

@happyriding ...160 road miles?!? You're on the wrong bike. 
I'm with you re: internal routing. Only my disdain for it extends to brake and transmission cables as well. 


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## coolatt (May 18, 2004)

arnea said:


> I measured 25.1mm


Thanks


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## bvader (Sep 13, 2009)

Chalk one up for Toughness. Finished a tough climb and leaned my bike up against the industrial metal or picnic table (winded so not very thoughtful I might add). I was putting on my pads and gust blows the bike off balance I watch it as it squirrels over and BANG the Revive takes a metal on metal smack on the upper post/ stanchion. That will leave a mark!! I pick up the bike and yup there's a mark.. bummer... little spit on the thumb and it rubbed right off.. no mark no gouge ... Nothing! 

Happy camper...Still works great!


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## Joel Fitzgerald (Feb 4, 2014)

Is it recommended to grease the saddle rails where they meet the clamp? What about under the clamp? I'm getting some creaking I'm trying to eliminate. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## RideMN (Sep 8, 2016)

Hey Saki, 
Loving my Revive!!! It is my first dropper and I am so happy I went with the Revive vs what I was going to go with. 
Today I had to wash my bike due to lack of trail cleanup from a horse or dog owner. Didn't spray water hard at anything but after wash and dry the post has some sticking happening. I have not tried to reset it yet. Maybe that will fix it? After it dries out I will spray some silicone spray on a rag and wipe down the post. 
Any tips? 


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

> 160 road miles?!? You're on the wrong bike.


I don't like to get my mtb's dirty, so I stick to the road. 



Joel Fitzgerald said:


> Is it recommended to grease the saddle rails where they meet the clamp? What about under the clamp? I'm getting some creaking I'm trying to eliminate.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Both areas rely on friction, and grease reduces friction, so I'm not sure grease is ideal. I applied White Lightning to those areas, which leaves a wax residue after the carrier evaporates, but I started hearing some smaller creaks a few days later, so I pulled out my big gun: beeswax. I have a hunk of the stuff, and I cut off a small piece that would fit inside the channels on the clamps where the saddle rails slot, then I rubbed it on the channels as well as on the top of the seatpost and the bottom of the bottom clamp.

Beeswax can also be used as a thread locker for bolts.

I don't know whether the creaking is going to be an ongoing problem with my Revive, which will require regularly applying something to the top of the seatpost, or not. We'll just have to see.

trail_aspens by online images, on Flickr


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Joel Fitzgerald said:


> Is it recommended to grease the saddle rails where they meet the clamp? What about under the clamp? I'm getting some creaking I'm trying to eliminate.


Based on my experiense the source of creaking is the clamp claddle, not rail clamps. You can definitely use some grease (e.g. copper one) for the clamp cradle, but the best way for longevity is to use washer cut from thin 0.2 - 0.3mm copper plate. I did so for all my droppers (KS Lev, RF Turbine) and no creaking issues since then (two years). I'm sorry I have no picture of the washer itself, jut of the paper templates on copper plate.


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

Thanks for the reminder PeterG. I remember reading about your washer. If the beeswax doesn't provide longer term relief, I'll try your solution next.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

I've already forgot what other thread I posted it on .


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## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

sacki said:


> I am not really a fan of Shims in seattubes, but we have customers using them with shims in 34.9 frames. Just make sure, the shim is long enough and covers the minimum insertion depth. If used a Shim, I´d get one from Syntace, since they offer it in 140mm length:
> https://www.bike-components.de/de/Syntace/Post-Shim-Light-31-6-Reduzierhuelse-p34182/
> Anyway, I can not guarantee perfect function, when using a shim, but I have heard no complaints so far.


If I were to use a Revive 185mm dropper in a 34.9 frame would you go with 31.6 and shim vs 30.9 and shim? I'm assuming 31.6 would be stronger and have less potential issues?

Any new plans for a 34.9 Revive....I know you just said no, but you seem to move quickly


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

I use shim 31.6/30.9 with RF dropper without an issue for 2 years. Since the shim has collar and there are also traces of milling from lathe, it holds the post in the carbon frame better, than no shim, so I can even use grease lightly on all surfaces to prevent galvanic corrosion.


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## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

PeterG said:


> I use shim 31.6/30.9 with RF dropper without an issue for 2 years. Since the shim has collar and there are also traces of milling from lathe, it holds the post in the carbon frame better, than no shim, so I can even use grease lightly on all surfaces to prevent galvanic corrosion.


thanks for the info


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Hi,

The reason might be a clogged foam ring in the bottom of the post. If you wash your bike, then water will get into the frame, and also get to the bottom of the post, and eventually inside the post, when you have it upside down. We explain this in the article descrition on our website under "troubleshooting". YOu just need to clea this foam ring, and your post will be as good as new, if you didn´t flood it with water. 

For cleaning, pleas edo not use silicone spray. There is no need to lubricate the outer post in any way. It is totally enough to wipe it dry and keep the wiper clean. If you want to use lubricant, then you may use a little bit of Ballistol on the stanchion and wiper, but then also wipe it off after applying.


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## RideMN (Sep 8, 2016)

Sounds good. Thanks Sacki!! 


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## jminus (Sep 4, 2008)

I just wanted to chime in as another very satisfied customer. I got my 185 Revive installed last week and have had 4 rides on it so far. I had to do one "revive" after I installed it and its been totally solid so far.

The lever feel and post action really is superior to the other posts I have used. The 185mm drop is just fantastic. I had 150mm with my old post and I can really feel the additional difference. I think I would be able to get away with 200mm if they ever come out with one!

Anyway, the reason I bought this post is because I've been following this thread and I think BikeYoke has really tried to make a dropper post that will actually be reliable over the long haul and rebuildable by a competent home mechanic when need. 

So I'll need to put a mucky PNW winter of riding on it before I can bestow it with the "best dropper ever" award. But it is off to a good start.


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## pryde1 (May 27, 2013)

Just another very satisfied revive owner. have a couple hundred miles of rugged mountain use on the 160mm with 0 issues. i also just received the small quick reset lever and it fits great as well. awesome product!









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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Mine was getting bit slow. Opened up as described in service video (but did not release the air), cleaned, lubbed, pumped the air to 250 psi and it is good again. Service is really easy. 

BTW I haven't used the revive function once. Took from the package, mounted to bike and it has been good since then. Like four months.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Got the revive lever attachments yesterday (ordered two). I do occasionally transport my bike inside a vehicle laying down, usually when I'm on vacation. I notice doing this and driving a significant distance almost always requires a revive, it'll usually sag down about half an inch afterwards. Not a big deal.


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## dhalsey (Aug 10, 2010)

I've owned 3 reverbs. The revive blows them out of the water. 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## gasmanxj (Sep 29, 2014)

Got about 1k miles between 2 Revives, 160 and 125, on two different bikes and they have been flawless. Had to do resets on both after the first ride but have not touched after that. They are super smooth and return with a resounding thud every time. So far so good, hopefully that translates long term.


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## alpinibis (Oct 13, 2009)

Hello, I have intention to buy a Revive, but I have some questions.

I have installed in my bike the Sram X0 twist shifters and Formula Rx brakes. The thing is if the triggy remote lever will interfere with the twist shifter. The twist shifter protudes 15mm from the bar. Here I put a picture to understand what I mean:








Could anyone measure the vertical distance from the bar to the lever? In case that the lever interferes with the shifter, is there any adapter to solve this problem?

Another question: Is the quick reset lever included? or do I have to buy apart?

Finally, I have readen in this thread something about a microvalve membrane upgrade. Does the current dropper post have this upgrade?
Thank you for your help.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

alpinibis said:


> I have installed in my bike the Sram X0 twist shifters and Formula Rx brakes. The thing is if the triggy remote lever will interfere with the twist shifter. The twist shifter protudes 15mm from the bar.
> 
> Could anyone measure the vertical distance from the bar to the lever? In case that the lever interferes with the shifter, is there any adapter to solve this problem?
> 
> Another question: Is the quick reset lever included? or do I have to buy apart?


You could just run the 2x remote option. If you order directly from Bikeyoke, you can choose which remote you want. Also, if ordering direct, you can add the reset lever to the order. It is an optional part so it is not included as standard equipment. 
https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/2-by-remote.html

I have over 500 miles on mine this year. Would have more but riding the SS is fun too. It's been flawless and functions exactly as advertised. I have had to do a couple of resets but it's normally because I will lift the bike while the seat is lowered. Crashing and turning the bike up side down to fix a flat hasn't been an issue.


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## alpinibis (Oct 13, 2009)

BXCc said:


> You could just run the 2x remote option.


But if I put the 2x remote I have to move the master cylinder brake to the right to make room for the dropper lever, and in that way I have to move my hand to reach the brake lever. 
I prefer not to move the brake. And I like the triggy much more :thumbsup:


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

But will you have to move it anyway to get the triggy clamp to fit between the shifter and brake lever clamp? The triggy is definitely easier to operate though. 

I measured between 15 and 16 millimeters of clearance. I guess if it was touching slightly, you could file down the top of the thumb paddle a bit.


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## alpinibis (Oct 13, 2009)

BXCc said:


> But will you have to move it anyway to get the triggy clamp to fit between the shifter and brake lever clamp? The triggy is definitely easier to operate though.
> 
> I measured between 15 and 16 millimeters of clearance. I guess if it was touching slightly, you could file down the top of the thumb paddle a bit.


That's perfect. As you say I could file down the top or better to put a shim inside the clamp to get some mm down.
My intention is not to put the triggy between the shifter and the brake lever clamp. I intend to put it at the right of them. Maybe the lever is not too long and I have to move my hand to reach it, but I prefer to move my hand to reach the triggy instead of having to move my hand to reach the brake lever.
Thank you for your help.


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## alpinibis (Oct 13, 2009)

by the way, how long is the lever?


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

About an inch from the mounting block.


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## mbishop22 (Sep 11, 2012)

Does anyone know if the Problem Solver Mismatch 1.2 will work with the triggy?


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

@alpinibis, why don't you use a Formula MixMaster for your brakes? That way you could attach the lever directly to the brake.


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## alpinibis (Oct 13, 2009)

Aglo said:


> @alpinibis, why don't you use a Formula MixMaster for your brakes? That way you could attach the lever directly to the brake.


I think it is only for Sram trigger. Mine is twist shifter


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

alpinibis said:


> Hello, I have intention to buy a Revive, but I have some questions.
> 
> I have installed in my bike the Sram X0 twist shifters and Formula Rx brakes. ...


With Sram grip shifters I've found the best option to use joystic type levers, like Crank Brothers Joplin remote (lower picture) or X-Fusion Hilo remote (upper picture), I have both (CB with Sram grip shifters on Pivot, X-Fusion with Shimano trigger shifters on Ibis). Both can operate like trigger and do not interfere with grip shifters. They are also cheap as well (at least X-Fusion).


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## alpinibis (Oct 13, 2009)

Thank you PeterG. I'll have a look


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

alpinibis said:


> I think it is only for Sram trigger. Mine is twist shifter


Originally it was to mount the Sram trigger shifters, but when you use grip shifts or 1x drive trains you can mount the Triggy instead.
And you wouldn't have clearance problems anymore.
You said you have RX brakes, but your clamp is different than mine, are you using another lever instead the one for RX ?


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## alpinibis (Oct 13, 2009)

Aglo said:


> Originally it was to mount the Sram trigger shifters, but when you use grip shifts or 1x drive trains you can mount the Triggy instead.
> And you wouldn't have clearance problems anymore.
> You said you have RX brakes, but your clamp is different than mine, are you using another lever instead the one for RX ?


In fact, my brakes are RX1, (R1 master cylinder and RX caliper).
Are you sure that the Formula MixMaster is compatible with the Revive tryggi? Will the tryggi fit into the Mixmaster gap?


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Both Triggy and MixMaster are suposed to follow Sram specifications so they are supposed to work together.
I'm using the Triggy with my Shimano brakes and the I-Spec adapter I got from BikeYoke, and I don't have MixMaster on my Formula brakes so I can't tell you for sure.


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## alpinibis (Oct 13, 2009)

OK. I think I'll take the risk and try the Mixmaster.
Thank you for your help.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Aglo said:


> ... I'm using the Triggy with my Shimano brakes and the I-Spec adapter I got from BikeYoke, and I don't have MixMaster on my Formula brakes so I can't tell you for sure.


Quoting from Bikeyoke site (https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/triggy-front.html)

*How can I mount my Triggy to my handlebar?*
There are several ways to mount Triggy:

- Use our "Splits" clamp and mount it stand-alone to your handlebar
- Without our clamp directly to a SRAM brake with Matchmaker lever clamp
- Without our clamp directly to a Magura brake brake with Siftmix lever clamp
- Without our clamp directly to a Hope brake with Hope Shifter Mount lever clamp
- Without our clamp directly to a Formula brake with Mixmaster brake clamp
- Without clamp directly to a Shimano I-Spec brake, using our optional I-Spec B or I-Spec II adapters
- Use a regular SRAM shifter clamp and mount it stand-alone to your handlebar

So the only issue could be the distance from the handlebars you have already asked ...


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## alpinibis (Oct 13, 2009)

PeterG said:


> Quoting from Bikeyoke site (https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/triggy-front.html)
> 
> *How can I mount my Triggy to my handlebar?*
> There are several ways to mount Triggy:
> ...


Thank you PeterG, I hadn't read that. So, as you say, now it only depends on the distance. BXCc said that the lever is about an inch long from the mounting block. But I don't know how is the mounting block.
Here I attach a picture: can someone tell me the distance from the center of that hole to the end of the lever?
Thank you again.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Just to complete joystick type levers info, few dimensions and ergonomy pictures are enclosed (CB Joplin - 3 upper pictures, X-Fusion Hilo - 3 lower pictures).


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## alpinibis (Oct 13, 2009)

Good information!!!!!


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

I've got persistent creaking with my 160mm Revive. I tried cleaning the clamp cradle and adding more beeswax, but that only cured the creaking for about 45 minutes, and then it came back. I think I'm going to try PeterG's solution and put some thin copper sheeting between the clamp cradle and the clamp. 

On another note, I snapped my dropper cable today after about 80 hours of use. It wasn't the original cable that came with my Revive--I had trouble getting the right cable length when I first installed my Revive--rather the cable was a generic derailleur cable that I bought at REI. Previously, I noticed that when I pushed the 2-by remote the "button" end of the cable made a clicking noise as it reseats in the button stop. I don't notice the clicking when I'm riding, but I think that means the cable is moving slightly too, and the cable must be sawing against the edge of the remote. 

The new derailleur cable I installed makes the same clicking noise, so before every ride I'm going to have to examine the cable to check for fraying. I think there must be something wrong with my 2-by remote.


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## WarMachine1804 (Oct 10, 2017)

Ok so im about to be on the market for a dropper, What confuses me is the size, i want my seat to be as low as possible but when the seat is up it should be maybe lets say a few inches past the handlebar? How do you guys buy yours without trying it? I have a trek roscoe 7 if that helps.

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## acedeuce802 (Jun 30, 2017)

WarMachine1804 said:


> Ok so im about to be on the market for a dropper, What confuses me is the size, i want my seat to be as low as possible but when the seat is up it should be maybe lets say a few inches past the handlebar? How do you guys buy yours without trying it? I have a trek roscoe 7 if that helps.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


You want the seat up high enough that your leg is at a slight bend when the pedal is low. You'll get your fixed seat height dialed in on your bike, then measure from the seat rails to the seat collar. Then compare this to the dimensions on BikeYokes website. Pick the largest dropper that will not cause the seat post to hit the collar, or hit something in the frame (bend/pivot/etc).

https://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&id=802

Use this article, but use the dimensions from the BikeYoke instead.


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## WarMachine1804 (Oct 10, 2017)

acedeuce802 said:


> You want the seat up high enough that your leg is at a slight bend when the pedal is low. You'll get your fixed seat height dialed in on your bike, then measure from the seat rails to the seat collar. Then compare this to the dimensions on BikeYokes website. Pick the largest dropper that will not cause the seat post to hit the collar, or hit something in the frame (bend/pivot/etc).
> 
> https://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&id=802
> 
> Use this article, but use the dimensions from the BikeYoke instead.


Tyvm, i knows its obvious im still a noob.

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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

You already have your bike with normal seatpost. You will find optimal pedalling height for your saddle. One very common rule is that when you put your heel on your pedal the knee is straight- this is good saddle height for pedalling. Now you will figure out, based on the dimensions of the dropper seatposts on Bikeyoke page which is the longest seatpost that you can install. If the seatpost is too small you will not meet the minimum insertion length criteria. If the post is too long then the saddle will be too high when post is fully inside the seattube. You can use your normal seatpost to figure out what is the maximum insertion depth. When you get the dropper post you will install it so that when it is fully extended you will get your preferred saddle height. When you drop it it will go as low as possible. Hope this helps.


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## WarMachine1804 (Oct 10, 2017)

arnea said:


> You already have your bike with normal seatpost. You will find optimal pedalling height for your saddle. One very common rule is that when you put your heel on your pedal the knee is straight- this is good saddle height for pedalling. Now you will figure out, based on the dimensions of the dropper seatposts on Bikeyoke page which is the longest seatpost that you can install. If the seatpost is too small you will not meet the minimum insertion length criteria. If the post is too long then the saddle will be too high when post is fully inside the seattube. You can use your normal seatpost to figure out what is the maximum insertion depth. When you get the dropper post you will install it so that when it is fully extended you will get your preferred saddle height. When you drop it it will go as low as possible. Hope this helps.


It def did and thanks because you for basically answered my next two questions.

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## justinnardella (Jun 23, 2016)

Hi everyone. I installed a 160mm drop Revive on my bike about a month ago. I clean the post’s seal every few rides or so along with the suspension. A noticeable gash has developed just today and I’m unsure how. I’m regularly cleaning the seals, and I never had this problem with the Reverb I previously had. Maybe something got past the seals? I’m doubtful of this unless it is a faulty product. The post has not contacted anything sharp either, and the gash is on a part of the stanchion that is facing the headtube, so it is well protected. The scratch does not span the whole stanchion—as shown in the picture. It is too early to tell, but it does not seem to affect performance. I purchased the post from JensonUSA, and I’m thinking of sending it back regardless. Any advice? 


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

It's pretty easy to do with a dropper post by leaning your bike on virtually anything...


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## Cayenne_Pepa (Dec 18, 2007)

Does resting on a bike stand fully extended cause sag?


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

Cayenne_Pepa said:


> Does resting on a bike stand fully extended cause sag?


Not fully extended. Even partially compressed _should_ be okay, especially with the recently added internal valve. If air is drawn in, though, it takes only seconds to bleed the Revive, so don't worry about it!


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

got a new revive

wow

was spongy out of box, hit the bleed twice, rock friggin solid

and I can torque it down tighter than a garnet w/o interfering with it's action

garnet, it doesn't take much clamp force to make it run like a dog
revive, don't matta us. they say 5nm and yup, you can go beyond 5nm (I stopped at 7nm and set it back to 5.5 nm)

garnet started slowing down at exactly 5.1nm torque

the revive lever vs garnet lever, I like them both but the revive is more like a shifter
where the garnet was a tab [and a whole new mental task] vs a thumbie

to put the garnet lever in the location my thumb wants it to be then the cable
would go straight up over the bars...not great

I used the garnet cable and garnet cable anchor in the revive, the parts are interchangable between posts/levers


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## alexdi (Jun 25, 2016)

I want to throw out another recommendation for shims. I've been using a Fouriers model to fit a 30.9 dropper in a 31.6 bike. Nary a problem. This could also be a solution for the gent earlier with the narrowing seat tube: buy a thinner post and shim up top.


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## bigolclyde (Aug 1, 2011)

justinnardella said:


> Hi everyone. I installed a 160mm drop Revive on my bike about a month ago. I clean the post's seal every few rides or so along with the suspension. A noticeable gash has developed just today and I'm unsure how. I'm regularly cleaning the seals, and I never had this problem with the Reverb I previously had. Maybe something got past the seals? I'm doubtful of this unless it is a faulty product. The post has not contacted anything sharp either, and the gash is on a part of the stanchion that is facing the headtube, so it is well protected. The scratch does not span the whole stanchion-as shown in the picture. It is too early to tell, but it does not seem to affect performance. I purchased the post from JensonUSA, and I'm thinking of sending it back regardless. Any advice?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Why would you send it back? That's not a warranty issue...

Maybe contact bikeyoke and buy a new tube?


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

bigolclyde said:


> Why would you send it back? That's not a warranty issue...
> 
> Maybe contact bikeyoke and buy a new tube?


My sentiments exactly

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

This is not a critical sealing surface. Worse that might happen is that the dust seal will be damaged by the gash (btw, there was no photo) and more dirt gets into the post, so it must be serviced more often. You can slightly polish the post to remove sharp edges if there are any.


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## razorjack (May 28, 2006)

Any reports on durability/sealing in mud conditions (UK) after a year ? 
what about availability of seals/bushings other service kits ?


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## VitaliT (Jan 17, 2015)

razorjack said:


> Any reports on durability/sealing in mud conditions (UK) after a year ?
> what about availability of seals/bushings other service kits ?


Sorry I don't have any experience of famous "English winter" hire we call it summer.
No problems with mud, just normal cleaning after each ride.
All replacement parts are available at their web shop.


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## cpolism (Mar 20, 2010)

I've got a WolfTooth ReMote lever and have really fallen in love with it paired with my KS Lev Integra. Has anyone paired the WT ReMote with the Revive?


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

cpolism said:


> I've got a WolfTooth ReMote lever and have really fallen in love with it paired with my KS Lev Integra. Has anyone paired the WT ReMote with the Revive?


Yes, I'm running that combo and it works great. IMO, it addresses the biggest weakness of the Revive (that the barrel nut is at the base of the post). It makes it a lot less important to get the length on that end right, since you can do all your adjustment at the ReMote.


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## jminus (Sep 4, 2008)

Andeh said:


> Yes, I'm running that combo and it works great. IMO, it addresses the biggest weakness of the Revive (that the barrel nut is at the base of the post). It makes it a lot less important to get the length on that end right, since you can do all your adjustment at the ReMote.


I'm running the short throw wolfstooth remote with my 185 revive and the combo is epic. The lever action with the wolfstooth is so smooth and easy it's hard to believe it's pulling a cable.


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## WarMachine1804 (Oct 10, 2017)

acedeuce802 said:


> You want the seat up high enough that your leg is at a slight bend when the pedal is low. You'll get your fixed seat height dialed in on your bike, then measure from the seat rails to the seat collar. Then compare this to the dimensions on BikeYokes website. Pick the largest dropper that will not cause the seat post to hit the collar, or hit something in the frame (bend/pivot/etc).
> 
> https://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&id=802
> 
> Use this article, but use the dimensions from the BikeYoke instead.


Ok so using fox transfer guide i got....
A. 233.68
B. 139.7
C. 400.05
D. 260.35

D+A= 494.03

I got lost at bikeyoke, What do i do now exactly?

Should i be getting a 120 or 150mm drop?

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## ghughes.hesinc (Jun 10, 2009)

WarMachine1804 said:


> Ok so using fox transfer guide i got....
> A. 233.68
> B. 139.7
> C. 400.05
> ...


160 should work...










However, it's pretty simple math, you should crunch your numbers using the drawing above.

As said before, you just need to be able to insert into the frame far enough to get your max saddle height and not be below the post minimum insertion...


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## Joel Fitzgerald (Feb 4, 2014)

Hey all, i've had the bikeyoke revive for a few months now.. Just recently noticed it's feeling a bit rougher than usual and also there is a verticle mark appearing on the stanchion around an inch or so long. Like a fine scratch/wear mark.
Wondering if I need to pull it apart and service it? Seemed a bit early for that..
Cheers
Joel


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Cleaning and lubing is really easy. If the post feels rough, do the basic maintenance (without replacing anything) and it will feel good again. I had to do it in four months.


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## Joel Fitzgerald (Feb 4, 2014)

That's basically the video floating around where you take the clip off the bottom and slide it apart?

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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

There are two videos:

Animated one - 




Real tutorial - 




Also, please read Sacki's (he makes those posts) comments about maintenance: http://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-1033134-3.html#post13231722


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## 0p3x (Sep 25, 2016)

Has anyone tryed 185mm revive on Canyon Strive XL ? Had to write to canyon's support but they didnt gave me a clear answer if it will fit just fine.
For Revive i will need 516,2 (length) - 235 (rails height from seattube exit) = 281,2 mm insertion (249,8 of 30.9mm tube and 31,4 mm of rotatable head)


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/bikeyoke-revive-dropper-post-review.html


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## Jessarpi (Jan 16, 2012)

Hi Sacki, what do you do if you do spray out a good amount of oil with the air? I do mean a good amount (which is bad).


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## ScottW (Jan 16, 2004)

Just ordered the Revive post from Jenson. Their save20 code works for the post and saves 20%.


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## ajohansson (Oct 29, 2017)

ScottW said:


> Just ordered the Revive post from Jenson. Their save20 code works for the post and saves 20%.


Dang it i paid full price!!

But its butter and dropped one on the wife's new 17 SC Tallboy C.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

Sweet deal. No 185s - is that because they are newer model? 

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## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

justinnardella said:


> Hi everyone. I installed a 160mm drop Revive on my bike about a month ago. I clean the post's seal every few rides or so along with the suspension. A noticeable gash has developed just today and I'm unsure how. I'm regularly cleaning the seals, and I never had this problem with the Reverb I previously had. Maybe something got past the seals? I'm doubtful of this unless it is a faulty product. The post has not contacted anything sharp either, and the gash is on a part of the stanchion that is facing the headtube, so it is well protected. The scratch does not span the whole stanchion-as shown in the picture. It is too early to tell, but it does not seem to affect performance.


Have got alike mystical scratch (facing to the front) at my 160 Revive in a first month of riding. Performance not affected, moreover the gash is not detectable by a finger.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Vital MTB Face Off: The Best Dropper Seatposts - Mountain Bikes Feature Stories - Vital MTB


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

accordnick said:


> Have got alike mystical scratch (facing to the front) at my 160 Revive in a first month of riding. Performance not affected, moreover the gash is not detectable by a finger.
> View attachment 1166212


Looks like your bushings are bad or the post is flexing and contacting the inside of the post. I would warranty it as it's only going to get worse until the seals fail.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

I have got over 1200km of intense use on my 160mm Revive.
It developed some stiction at max extension.
Disassembled the lower, cleaned everything, inspect for damages, apply some grease and re-assemble everything.
Good as new.
And no damage nor scratchs anywhere.

As *alexbn921* mentioned you must have some damage.
It's better if you contact Bikeyoke for warranty.



accordnick said:


> Have got alike mystical scratch (facing to the front) at my 160 Revive in a first month of riding. Performance not affected, moreover the gash is not detectable by a finger.
> View attachment 1166212


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## justinnardella (Jun 23, 2016)

accordnick said:


> Have got alike mystical scratch (facing to the front) at my 160 Revive in a first month of riding. Performance not affected, moreover the gash is not detectable by a finger.
> View attachment 1166212


Thank goodness I'm not alone. The scratch does seem to have gotten worse for me and I can just barely feel it, so I'm going to contact BikeYoke. I will post their response.

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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

any backyard machinists able to cut a chunk of a 4mm allen key
and glue a small supermagnet to it and make a tiny wingnut out of it ?

you could pop it on the revive bolt and leave it there, magnet keeps it
there and you'd have a small finger-grabbable edge to burp this post
any time


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## ghughes.hesinc (Jun 10, 2009)

127.0.0.1 said:


> any backyard machinists able to cut a chunk of a 4mm allen key
> and glue a small supermagnet to it and make a tiny wingnut out of it ?
> 
> you could pop it on the revive bolt and leave it there, magnet keeps it
> ...


You do know they make a lever, right?


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## bogeydog (Apr 13, 2015)

Installed one and it is shocking smooth. 

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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

ghughes.hesinc said:


> You do know they make a lever, right?


I bought two of these thinking I'd lose one in a crash, but the fit is tight! There's no way it's coming loose. Great little upgrade

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

127.0.0.1 said:


> (...) glue a small supermagnet to it and make a tiny wingnut out of it ?


The Revive bolt is non-magnetic stainless steel.



incubus said:


> I bought two of these thinking I'd lose one in a crash, but the fit is tight! There's no way it's coming loose. Great little upgrade


Before installing it was like "I'm so gonna attach a string to it and tie it to the seat rails.", after installing it, not so much .


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

alexbn921 said:


> Looks like your bushings are bad or the post is flexing and contacting the inside of the post. I would warranty it as it's only going to get worse until the seals fail.


The flexing idea sounds plausible. If one of the grooves where the guiding pins slide has some kind of burr or ridge it is possible that it will contact the stanchion. The people with scratched posts should look how the inside of the outer tube looks like when they do the maintenance.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Is everyone 100% happy with there revive seatpost? Seen the few marks in the last few posts but other than that are they proving reliable? I have just fitted a 170mm reverb and its already sagging after one ride so I am looking at a revive.


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## ajohansson (Oct 29, 2017)

Love mine


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## ghughes.hesinc (Jun 10, 2009)

Rick Draper said:


> Is everyone 100% happy with there revive seatpost? Seen the few marks in the last few posts but other than that are they proving reliable? I have just fitted a 170mm reverb and its already sagging after one ride so I am looking at a revive.


A+ you won't regret it!


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Revive just got the top pick in VitalMTB's latest dropper roundup.

I'm still 100% happy with mine (had since June). Zero issues, and haven't had to actually use the bleed lever once. I put my old Reverb on my hardtail, and really hate how it feels in comparison.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

Yup. Extremely happy. 5 of my riding buddies have them and are also super happy with them. I ordered mine in late January. One of the techs at the LBS ordered one shortly thereafter. He’s been pushing them ever since. All 6 have been flawless. Well, other than human error.


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## VegasSingleSpeed (May 5, 2005)

ScottW said:


> Just ordered the Revive post from Jenson. Their save20 code works for the post and saves 20%.


Yep! Just ordered, $299 with free shipping!


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

ScottW said:


> Just ordered the Revive post from Jenson. Their save20 code works for the post and saves 20%.


Anyone know if the Jenson version is the one with the new membrane and lever?


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## ajohansson (Oct 29, 2017)

ac1000 said:


> Anyone know if the Jenson version is the one with the new membrane and lever?


Whats new? I got mine a month ago from Jensens and looks like the one on the Bike yoke website

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## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

Aglo said:


> As *alexbn921* mentioned you must have some damage.
> It's better if you contact Bikeyoke for warranty.


I've sent them an e-mail, will report the results if any. There is no local service center here.


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## bendoe5010 (Sep 20, 2017)

ac1000 said:


> Anyone know if the Jenson version is the one with the new membrane and lever?


I sent an email to them yesterday. I can't speak for the membrane, but there is no lever. You have to buy the remote separately

Here is their answer:

"Hi Jean

Bike Yoke Revive Dropper Post | Jenson USA

the above Bike Yoke SEATPOST does not come with the remote, sorry.

here is a link to the Bike Yoke remotes ~ Search | Jenson USA

Good Luck & Thanks for writing!"


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

bendoe5010 said:


> I sent an email to them yesterday. I can't speak for the membrane, but there is no lever. You have to buy the remote separately
> 
> Here is their answer:
> 
> ...


Their email is misleading. All of the Revive's should come with the Triggy remote. The lever that is inquired about is the reset lever that is an option.

https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/quick-reset-lever.html


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

yes all revives come with post, cable, housing, anchor, and triggy

neat plastic burp lever not included.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

It's not plastic, it's blacked stainless steel.
Either plastic or aluminum wouldn't last a single revive.


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## bendoe5010 (Sep 20, 2017)

BXCc said:


> Their email is misleading. All of the Revive's should come with the Triggy remote. The lever that is inquired about is the reset lever that is an option.
> 
> https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/quick-reset-lever.html


Thanks!

Misleading is not the word I would use then. Totally wrong email might be more appropriate.

On my email, I was really talking about the remote, as he was in his reply.

Oh well, I guess I will give it a try and order it anyway... 

Sorry for the confusion trigger vs lever.


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

The Jenson person was sorely misinformed. You can see the correct answer right in the Q&A section of the very listing he linked!

I've purchased two Revives from Jenson. Both included the Trigger remote. You should have absolute confidence that you will receive the same.


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## ScottW (Jan 16, 2004)

I received my Revive ordered from Jenson earlier this week. It did include the triggy remote and other items mentioned in post #302.


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## bendoe5010 (Sep 20, 2017)

InertiaMan said:


> The Jenson person was sorely misinformed. You can see the correct answer right in the Q&A section of the very listing he linked!
> 
> I've purchased two Revives from Jenson. Both included the Trigger remote. You should have absolute confidence that you will receive the same.


I did see the comments as well, and maybe I shouldn't have asked to double check!
Thanks again. I will order mine this morning then.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

PeterG said:


> Based on my experiense the source of creaking is the clamp claddle, not rail clamps. You can definitely use some grease (e.g. copper one) for the clamp cradle, but the best way for longevity is to use washer cut from thin 0.2 - 0.3mm copper plate. I did so for all my droppers (KS Lev, RF Turbine) and no creaking issues since then (two years). I'm sorry I have no picture of the washer itself, jut of the paper templates on copper plate.


What an interesting idea - Is it necessary to make the washer so big that the bolts go through it, or would a piece clamped in between the cradle / seatpost head be sufficient?


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

I did the washer with the bolts going through for practical reason, the washer holds well in the place when the bolts are loosen. I have to correct the plate thickness info above - it's 0.1mm (I've checked), after a couple years of use the washer got some cracks on sides from the high pressure, but still works. I would recommend 0.1 mm brass over 0.1mm copper, it should be tougher (in theory, not tested yet), or maybe 0.2mm copper. 0.1 and 0.2mm brass and copper sheets are available on eBay in various sizes.


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## bendoe5010 (Sep 20, 2017)

PeterG said:


> Based on my experiense the source of creaking is the clamp claddle, not rail clamps. You can definitely use some grease (e.g. copper one) for the clamp cradle, but the best way for longevity is to use washer cut from thin 0.2 - 0.3mm copper plate. I did so for all my droppers (KS Lev, RF Turbine) and no creaking issues since then (two years). I'm sorry I have no picture of the washer itself, jut of the paper templates on copper plate.


Just to make sure I understand, you put the copper washer between 1 and 2, correct?


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Yeah, correct.


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## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

Is there any way to reduce the travel on these? I'm wondering if a 185 post dropped to 160 would give a greater distance between bushings at full height and help reduce any fore/aft play.


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## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

accordnick said:


> I've sent them an e-mail, will report the results if any. There is no local service center here.


They replied quickly and I'm posting the whole answer. It may be useful for others:



> I am sorry to hear about the scratch in your upper tube.
> To be honest, we have had a handful of posts, with a similar mark on the
> stanchion. The mark is always exactly located on the front middle of the
> stanchion.
> ...


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Good advice, but the scratch is only going to get worse and I would make sure that they replace your post before the warranty is over.
I had an identical wear mark on my 200mm 9point8 and they replaced the post under warranty.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Jessarpi said:


> Hi Sacki, what do you do if you do spray out a good amount of oil with the air? I do mean a good amount (which is bad).


As long as the post locks properly and as long you do not have to reset too often, then it will be fine. 
When you check air pressure: Always keep the pump attached, so the oil goes inside the pump and you can pump it back inside.
Also: Always reset the post and let it rest un upright position for a minute before releasing/checking air pressure air and only release the air, when the post is in upright position.
If you have lost too much oil, the post wil not lock properly anymore. 
In this case you can fill oil through the air valve with a syringe (remove the valve core first!!!) Then stroke the post manually a few times to suck the oil down into the oil chamber.
Always just fill in 2cl at a time, so you don´t get too much oil in the post. You will feel, that there is too much oil in the post, when it is too hard to compress towards the end.

Youl will have to fill


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## AmericanTemplar (Mar 26, 2010)

Just installed mine this weekend. Overall, the installation was a breeze--much easier and less finicky than the Easton dropper that it is replacing. Overall, build quality and the feel is excellent! I look forward to using it.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

Anyone running the 185 yet? 

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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

Sacki,

I ordered a revive lever and a rebuild kit.

you emailed me back, what type of wiper I have, spring or no spring, so you can
send the right kit

I emailed you back, no spring. 

then it took me about a day to actually look, and there is a spring, so I made
a mistake. and emailed you as soon as I could... I have a spring!

---------------------------------------
Just now I got email saying my order is dispatched. can you tell
me if I am getting the correct, spring wiper ? I know I messed up though...

my order
The status of your order 402000 from 13.11.2017 changed.


thanks


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

NOTE to bikeyoke

I see you have a list on your website of confirmed posts the Triggy Lever works on...

I can confirm it works on DVO Garnet internal dropper just fine....

the dimensions of everything on the Garnet where the cable anchor sits and cable action is nearly identical to Revive, and Triggy works great (and is a good improvement on the Garnet thumb-tab thing)


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

What spare parts do I need to get my remote CrankBrothers highline remote working with BikeYoke Revive?
https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/seatpost-only-revive-160-30-9.html

https://www.crankbrothers.com/product/highline-remote

This remote is free-cable-end actuated, means that "stoppy block" of cable is on the dropper side.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

---------

And one more question about Revive versions:
what is the differenve between Revive and Revive 2.0?
Which version is selling on official site?

2.0 you can see there https://www.bike-components.de/en/B...60846/black-30-9-mm-435-mm-SB-0-mm-o69407499/


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## jminus (Sep 4, 2008)

DriverB said:


> Anyone running the 185 yet?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


Been running it for about a two months. So far so good. I love the extra few cm of drop.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

jminus said:


> Been running it for about a two months. So far so good. I love the extra few cm of drop.


Nice. I'm debating it vs. the 160 for a Nomad 4 build I'm working on. Based on the RS reverb 170 dimensions (stock on N4 L), I believe they imply I can fit the Revive 185. Al

A bit more weight too but my original goal was to maximize insertion without going to the collar. Not sure if it's overkill as I'm sure the 160 drop is effictively fine too

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## jminus (Sep 4, 2008)

DriverB said:


> Nice. I'm debating it vs. the 160 for a Nomad 4 build I'm working on. Based on the RS reverb 170 dimensions (stock on N4 L), I believe they imply I can fit the Revive 185. Al
> 
> A bit more weight too but my original goal was to maximize insertion without going to the collar. Not sure if it's overkill as I'm sure the 160 drop is effictively fine too
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


I was fine with 150 on my previous post, but having the seat even further down turned out to be awesome for jumping. I would run 200mm if they had one


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Who ordered directly from bikeyoke.com, would you please look at the payment operation - does it come as a "sport goods/sport shop"?
It's important if I want to get cashback (buying only from shops with "sport" codes of transaction)


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

MCC code (Merchant category code)


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

be careful ordering from bikeyoke using paypal to fill in your address

i ordered via paypal and used paypal address automatic
got receipt in email, it's being sent to wrong state, but correct zip

so, 2 things

1-ordering a service kit apparently there are two kinds but no way to know that on web site, [but they email you and ask what you need before they ship]
2- do not trust address to be correct if using paypal.

i'll post what happens but i think i just flushed 21 eu down the drain
partly my fault i guess but this is first time i paid for something via paypal and the
address was messed up. i have only one paypal address

*EDIT: Bikeyoke got a hold of me and they said they know
of this issue where state defaults to bottom of the list
and my parts are in fact going to the right place.*


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

127.0.0.1 said:


> i ordered via paypal


what was the MCC code of transaction?


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

didn't have one

Seller infoBikeYoke Germany+49 0176208108 -48http://www.bikeyoke.com[email protected]

it does say bicycles as a category it just doesn't specifically say MCC

anyhow, first time in 10 years I had a paypal auto-inject address go wrong, which is why I don't check too often. once I click paypal and my address
gets automatically filled I look at zip and it was correct. state was all sorts 
of wrong, I will likely never get my parts. as I said yeah I goofed but it should
not autopopulate most of my address and get the state wrong. something is
broken on their end.

*EDIT: Bikeyoke got a hold of me and they said they know
of this issue where state defaults to bottom of the list
and my parts are in fact going to the right place.*


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

uhmm... in transactions history for your card should be the code for that payment..


Anyway, if somebody bought from BY please look at MCC. Thanx.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

ka81ua said:


> uhmm... in transactions history for your card should be the code for that payment..
> 
> Anyway, if somebody bought from BY please look at MCC. Thanx.


what do you mean card ? I used paypal. there is no card involved.

paypal transaction history says CategoryBicycles


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

I did look and no code, I also paid with PayPal.
I checked the receipt at BikeYoke.
The transaction at Paypal.
The transaction at my bank.

No code.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Just to clear what i'm talking about, here screenshot of history from app from my bank and the last one (paypal transaction, with red arrow) is "Sporting goods".


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

I don't see that information on my bank.
Send an email to BikeYoke and ask them directly.

Screenshot of the transaction on my bank app:


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Aglo said:


> Send an email to BikeYoke and ask them directly.


that was the first thing i've done, of course.



> Hi,
> 
> I am not really sure, what you/we need this (MCC code for) information for.
> But I assume sports/sport goods should be appropriate.
> ...


))

p.s. anyway, very appreciate all your comments here. Thanks.


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

Paypal will flag it as bicycles category.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

ka81ua said:


> ---------
> 
> And one more question about Revive versions:
> what is the differenve between Revive and Revive 2.0?
> ...


pretty hard to tell what that site is posting...scrolling through the zoom images
it shows TWO droppers in the images. one has a silver spring loaded wiper seal one doesn't (you can see it in the images)
so they are using some sort of stock images on that link.


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> that was the first thing i've done, of course.
> 
> p.s. anyway, very appreciate all your comments here. Thanks.


Ask them if you can buy something from them and cancel it immediately after you receive the PayPal notification with no costs for you or them.
If yes, buy something like the "Circlip lower tube" at €0.90 from BikeYoke, then cancel it.
The transaction should appear listed on your bank history.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Aglo said:


> \
> If yes, buy something like the "Circlip lower tube" at €0.90 from BikeYoke, then cancel it.
> The transaction should appear listed on your bank history.


don't even know why it haven't come in my mind. Thanks!!


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

PeterG said:


> I did the washer with the bolts going through for practical reason, the washer holds well in the place when the bolts are loosen. I have to correct the plate thickness info above - it's 0.1mm (I've checked), after a couple years of use the washer got some cracks on sides from the high pressure, but still works. I would recommend 0.1 mm brass over 0.1mm copper, it should be tougher (in theory, not tested yet), or maybe 0.2mm copper. 0.1 and 0.2mm brass and copper sheets are available on eBay in various sizes.


Thanks - .1mm brass sheet ordered from ebay - If this doesnt quiet things down will purchase a new saddle.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Could somebody please explaine about that sheet and noises...


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## VitaliT (Jan 17, 2015)

006_007 said:


> Thanks - .1mm brass sheet ordered from ebay - If this doesnt quiet things down will purchase a new saddle.


Had same problem, creaking saddle clamp firstly tried different saddles.
Later just cleaned carbon paste, and applied toothpaste.
Four month and it still quiet.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

VitaliT said:


> Had same problem, creaking saddle clamp firstly tried different saddles.
> Later just cleaned carbon paste, and applied toothpaste.
> Four month and it still quiet.


And a reduced risk of your revive getting a cavity! Wintergreen?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

ka81ua said:


> Could somebody please explaine about that sheet and noises...


http://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-1033134-3.html#post13351262
http://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-1033134-4.html#post13413871
http://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-1033134-4.html#post13413945


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

PeterG said:


> Based on my experiense the source of creaking is the clamp claddle, not rail clamps. You can definitely use some grease (e.g. copper one) for the clamp cradle, but the best way for longevity is to use washer cut from thin 0.2 - 0.3mm copper plate. I did so for all my droppers (KS Lev, RF Turbine) and no creaking issues since then (two years). I'm sorry I have no picture of the washer itself, jut of the paper templates on copper plate.


Aren't those washers made of copper matterial (although it's only 0.3 mm) too thick (strong) to be elastic to fit that place in seatpost?


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

0.3 mm is too much, I've checked actual sheet thickness and corrected the dimensions in the topic http://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-1033134-4.html#post13413871. 0.1mm brass is OK, I think 0.2mm would be too. The best way is to try to find the optimal thickness vs. fit and wear, that's not that expensive.


----------



## ScottW (Jan 16, 2004)

Got my first ride on my Bike Yoke Revive post today. Great post, I've been on Reverbs for years and the lever action of the Revive is so much nicer and lighter than the push button. Post action is also great. Very smooth and easy to activate. So glad I got this post over the other options.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

First ride on the Revive the other day, action from the start was spot on. 185mm drop with a low stack height is great as it means you can run it in a lot of frames where a 170mm reverb might not work. During the ride the return action went a bit sluggish, i am not sure if this was temperature or pressure related. I never checked the pressure before I set off but I did check it today and added a bit more. Other than that it was rock solid all ride and the action is very smooth.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

New to the forum... so I got my first ride in on this post today as well. Super sloppy and cold out here in western PA today but post was rock solid! Bike was covered in frozen slop after but no noticeable affect on the function of the post at all. I gave everything a quick spray off after and all is well. So far I'm highly impressed, I have two 9.8 Fall Line's on my other bikes, but this seems to be a notch above them in terms of build, quality, set up, etc! Also, as for the install, super easy, just gotta make sure you pull your cable tight into the remote to get the sizing. there is a rear feed Triggy too that allows you to size your cable up that way too, which is super nice...


----------



## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

After delay on UPS side, mine is getting delivered today. How did you guys applied carbon/friction paste?

I put it on KS Eten on my aluminum bike before. I put it on entire bottom tube and some inside of seat tube. That was that and I never took it out after that.

On kids bikes, I put it on and had to take seat post out one time and whole thing was scratched up.

Do you put friction paste just around inside of clamp where it actually grabs? Whole bottom tube? Go all out and put everywhere?


----------



## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

HaxEJxuK said:


> After delay on UPS side, mine is getting delivered today. How did you guys applied carbon/friction paste?
> 
> I put it on KS Eten on my aluminum bike before. I put it on entire bottom tube and some inside of seat tube. That was that and I never took it out after that.
> 
> ...


I have mine installed in a carbon frame without any friction paste. I'm a 200 pounder and I have no issues with it slipping or binding with proper-ish torque on the seat collar.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

No friction paste in the frame, just a bit of grease. I did apply friction past on the saddle clamp/rail interface after having my ti railed saddle slide back.


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## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

hmmmm, I thought grease was no no for dropper especially for carbon frame? That was clamp doesn't have to be tight which might mess up operation of dropper action.

Also, directly from BikeYoke Revive manual

"Apply a suitable friction or anti-seize compound to the
inside of the seat tube and inserted surface of the
seatpost! Do not use grease!"


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## waldog (Nov 4, 2005)

HaxEJxuK said:


> hmmmm, I thought grease was no no for dropper especially for carbon frame? That was clamp doesn't have to be tight which might mess up operation of dropper action.
> 
> Also, directly from BikeYoke Revive manual
> 
> ...


This.

Isn't it even written on the post?


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## wenna (Jul 7, 2016)

ka81ua said:


> ---------
> 
> And one more question about Revive versions:
> what is the differenve between Revive and Revive 2.0?
> ...


2.0 has a microvalve and comes with the reset lever.

Microvalve quote from pinkbike:
"All Revives now come with a patented new feature called "Microvalve". Microvalve is a small membrane that sits inside the outer oil/air chamber and is there to minimize the chance of air getting inside the inner chamber, where it would cause a springy post. Unlike an IFP, the Microvalve membrane is installed statically and just offers enough resistance to not let air pass it when the post is static; i.e. when you put the post upside down or lay it down for a while. However, when you drop or raise the post, the pressure will easily bend the membrane, so that oil can pass and won´t affect Revive super smooth action. This membrane will effectively reduce the frequency between required resets while keeping the reset procedure and actuation of the post itself as smooth and easy as before."


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

On my aluminum frame I applied copper anti-seize compound and grip paste, probably overkill, but no problem so far .


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

Has anyone received a post recently from Jenson or any of the other US based retailers that was the version with the membrane/microvalve and reset lever?


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

ac1000 said:


> Has anyone received a post recently from Jenson or any of the other US based retailers that was the version with the membrane/microvalve and reset lever?


Got mine the other day from Backcountry. No reset lever, what is the membrane?


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

ac1000 said:


> Has anyone received a post recently from Jenson or any of the other US based retailers that was the version with the membrane/microvalve and reset lever?


how do we tell ?
tell me, and I'll tell you if my recent Jenson post has one

no I am not opening it up


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## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

I can look it up if one could tell me how to tell. I literally got mine like 2 hours ago. 

Sucks I can't put it on. My Hightower came with Reverb with clamp built in. Since I'm removing it, there's no clamp to mount brake or Revive. Just ordered clamp and waiting game begins again.


----------



## coolatt (May 18, 2004)

coolatt said:


> 31.6 / 160mm Revive
> 
> I also noticed a very small amount of forward/backward movement of the stanchion at full extension, that decreases as the post is lowered. Anyone else have this? I'd say my 3 year old LEV has some forward/backward movement, but definitely more rotational movement.


I want to bring this up again because it starting to become noticeable while riding. When climbing technical sections where I am weighting and unweighting the saddle I can feel a slight knock which I feel is the front to back movement.

Off the bike, the post only seems to be able to rock front to back at full extension, anything lower and it's absent. It's not the lower tube. I can feel with my hand at the wiper it's the upper tube.


----------



## wenna (Jul 7, 2016)

HaxEJxuK said:


> I can look it up if one could tell me how to tell. I literally got mine like 2 hours ago.
> 
> Sucks I can't put it on. My Hightower came with Reverb with clamp built in. Since I'm removing it, there's no clamp to mount brake or Revive. Just ordered clamp and waiting game begins again.


If you ordered directly from Sacki/BikeYoke they have been shipping the 2.0 since June. If you purchased your post from somewhere else I guess only way of knowing is to ask BikeYoke to check your serial number.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

anyone order post or parts
direct from Bikeyoke Germany to US ? 
how long did it take to arrive ?


----------



## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

ac1000 said:


> Has anyone received a post recently from Jenson or any of the other US based retailers that was the version with the membrane/microvalve and reset lever?


My guess is that if the retailer doesn't have sell 185s yet they are not selling the 2.0. It appears the 185 was released along with the 2.0 reboot based on the pinkbike article.

I am intending on the 185 for my N4 build, not sure if I will have to order it from Germany

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

HaxEJxuK said:


> I can look it up if one could tell me how to tell. I literally got mine like 2 hours ago.


I think if it came with a lever that pops in the reset hex that it would be the 2.0.
I want the later version because I turn my bike upside every day to take wheels on and off and also transport my bike in my hatchback on its side.
Sounds like the revised version would be preferred for my specific situation.


----------



## wenna (Jul 7, 2016)

ac1000 said:


> I think if it came with a lever that pops in the reset hex that it would be the 2.0.
> I want the later version because I turn my bike upside every day to take wheels on and off and also transport my bike in my hatchback on its side.
> Sounds like the revised version would be preferred for my specific situation.


They started to ship with the levers just recently so you could still have a 2.0 even if you did not get the lever. But like you said.... If it came with the lever it should definitely be 2.0. 
Ordered mine in October from BikeYoke and mine came without the lever since it was not ready by then. But it's still 2.0. When the lever was ready and added with the posts the price went up 10 euro.

Was in contact with BikeYoke to confirm I did have 2.0 and they were nice enough to send me the lever also (free of charge).


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## ScottW (Jan 16, 2004)

I ordered a second Revive post from backcountry and it came with the small reset lever and the triggy design is a little different from the other one I have. I can't see any difference in the posts and both work great but it you want to be sure you have the newest one then backcountry has them.


----------



## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

ScottW said:


> I ordered a second Revive post from backcountry and it came with the small reset lever and the triggy design is a little different from the other one I have. I can't see any difference in the posts and both work great but it you want to be sure you have the newest one then backcountry has them.


And they are selling the 185 which suggests it's 2.0... Good find must be recent didn't see it a few weeks ago

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

FYI,

Sacki replied my question back saying ones with serial number that starts with 1705 and higher are v2. Mine doesn't have lever but starts with 1707 so ones from Jenson are v2 too!


----------



## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

HaxEJxuK said:


> FYI,
> 
> Sacki replied my question back saying ones with serial number that starts with 1705 and higher are v2. Mine doesn't have lever but starts with 1707 so ones from Jenson are v2 too!


Thanks for posting this! Solid answer.


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

127.0.0.1 said:


> anyone order post or parts
> direct from Bikeyoke Germany to US ?
> how long did it take to arrive ?


update: took about 8 days. not bad


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

Aglo said:


> It's not plastic, it's blacked stainless steel.
> Either plastic or aluminum wouldn't last a single revive.


ok yeah I just got my reset lever

wow it is tiny. and need some serious finger pressure to activate it.

installed... the oring finds a spot and hold it tight. 
it is not gonna come out during a ride, no matter how hard i throw down.

what a sweet little design, so glad I got it.


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

127.0.0.1 said:


> (...)
> what a sweet little design, so glad I got it.


Couple rides back I had flipped my bike and forgot to check the seatpost for sag, meanwhile while climbing a short steep section I felt I couldn't get full power on my legs, after finished that section I noticed the seatpost was sagging like 1/2in, and while still seated I did a revive, how neat is that. You can bleed your seatpost even while riding, I approve .


----------



## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

Aglo said:


> Couple rides back I had flipped my bike and forgot to check the seatpost for sag, meanwhile while climbing a short steep section I felt I couldn't get full power on my legs, after finished that section I noticed the seatpost was sagging like 1/2in, and while still seated I did a revive, how neat is that. You can bleed your seatpost even while riding, I approve .


Hmmm. My bike and I rolled down a bank. My post feels a little short. I need to check it.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## NotAnotherClimb (Dec 16, 2014)

I'm looking at the Revive, but very concerned that there appears to be no full service procedure. I've seen the video of the very basic service of essentially just cleaning the dust wiper.

If I'm going to spend $400, I want the seat to last more than 200 hours. What's the deal, does it really not ever need a full service? Seems unlikely.


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

My understanding is that it's fully user serviceable with cheap standard parts and simple tools. There just isn't a published procedure yet. Parts are available I believe.

However, I'd expect the hydraulics to go for a very long time before needing any attention.


----------



## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

I asked same thing from Sacki before I bought the Revive. He assured me that all parts will be available and the procedure is simple and they will not let me down. Very happy with my post now.


----------



## gasmanxj (Sep 29, 2014)

After 5 months my 160 was getting a bit sticky. Pulled apart and did a relube, smooth as butter again. Super easy took about 30 mins, just watched the video on their website.


----------



## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

HaxEJxuK said:


> FYI,
> 
> Sacki replied my question back saying ones with serial number that starts with 1705 and higher are v2. Mine doesn't have lever but starts with 1707 so ones from Jenson are v2 too!


Just got and installed my 160mm from Jenson.
It has a serial number that started with 1710 and it came with the little lever.
Super easy install. I've left the Specialized Command post lever on for now and it works great with it.


----------



## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

Wolftooth doesn't list it, does anybody know which version of the Wolf Tooth ReMote works best with the Revive?


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

I've just installed one to run with a Fox Transfer 1x lever. It gives a very light feel.

I have a light action wolftooth lever for my Thomson but I imagine this will get replaced with a Revive next time it goes wonky. I don't know if the LA will be best for it but it will sit better with my brake levers, pull enough cable and feel very very light.

Now my cable clamps at both ends, I can recycle all my old mech cables as they're always okay in the middle. Run through brake housing with a bit of oil in makes for a super light feel as well.


----------



## prosto_mtb (Jan 7, 2017)

VonFalkenhausen said:


> Wolftooth doesn't list it, does anybody know which version of the Wolf Tooth ReMote works best with the Revive?


Is there anything wrong with stock remote?
Recently I had a chance to test the Revive and actuation was so smooth compared to KS Lev with Southpaw. Seatpost itself has outstanding low friction in seals.


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

The Triggy remote is great. Very ergonomic and functional. The only reason I'm using a different lever is that I already have a well functioning, expensive aftermarket lever and it works with the Revive.

Sacki has clearly considered this is going to be the case which is why you can order the post without a lever.


----------



## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

prosto_mtb said:


> Is there anything wrong with stock remote?
> Recently I had a chance to test the Revive and actuation was so smooth compared to KS Lev with Southpaw. Seatpost itself has outstanding low friction in seals.


I'm sure it is a good lever, I just happen to have a ReMote and like it quite a bit. I am considering a Revive for a different bike and want to stick with the ReMote and I may also change versions on the existing ReMote since there was no option when I originally purchased it.


----------



## jminus (Sep 4, 2008)

VonFalkenhausen said:


> I'm sure it is a good lever, I just happen to have a ReMote and like it quite a bit. I am considering a Revive for a different bike and want to stick with the ReMote and I may also change versions on the existing ReMote since there was no option when I originally purchased it.


I have the original ReMote with my revive and it is an awesome match. The pull is already so light that I don't see a need for the lighter action ReMote and I would rather have the shorter lever throw.


----------



## adagioca (Apr 28, 2004)

jminus said:


> I have the original ReMote with my revive and it is an awesome match. The pull is already so light that I don't see a need for the lighter action ReMote and I would rather have the shorter lever throw.


I also have Remote (not light action) with my Revive and it feels perfect. I'd like to see how the stock Triggy feels but I really don'y see any reasons too. Personally would not go out of my way to buy a third party lever but since I had one with my Thomson Covert it replaced, I just left it there.


----------



## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

Thanks guys, that is going to work well for me.


----------



## NotAnotherClimb (Dec 16, 2014)

arnea said:


> I asked same thing from Sacki before I bought the Revive. He assured me that all parts will be available and the procedure is simple and they will not let me down. Very happy with my post now.





onzadog said:


> My understanding is that it's fully user serviceable with cheap standard parts and simple tools. There just isn't a published procedure yet. Parts are available I believe.
> 
> However, I'd expect the hydraulics to go for a very long time before needing any attention.


Thanks for the help. I ordered a 185mm Revive! Looks like I will still have to pull it out of the seat tube a bit, but the slammed height will still be less than my 150mm Reverb. Can't wait to get rid of the Reverb that sinks 21mm when I sit on it. Supposedly I could rebuild it and fix the problem, but not worth it to me anymore.


----------



## alexchung (Feb 8, 2014)

Got a 160mm Revive after my KS Lev Integra 125mm failed me one last time. Easy process to order via Bikeyoke in Germany and it took about a week from buying to it arriving at my house in the UK (the delay was more to do with our side rather than with DeutschePost)
Not used it yet but felt great and smooth when setting the seat height up last night and the triggy is much better than the KS lever (oh yea it works with that too)
Think my bike shop lost my reset lever though...I did see it in the box (which looked like an expensive bottle of malt  ) Its a tiny thing isn't it? Guess I better order a couple just in case.
Alex


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

alexchung said:


> (...)Its a tiny thing isn't it? Guess I better order a couple just in case.
> Alex


Yup, its very tiny and black, at least I was expecting something bigger. But it works just fine.


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

I have about 20 rides on the Bikeyoke 160. Awesome. Stanchion Action is better than my Thomson Dropper on other bike. I am coming from Gravity Dropper, so Bikeyoke Revive has a high standard of durability to meet. However, the Gravity Dropper is so outdated, ugly, and has not been re engineered for slacker seat tube angle on modern bikes. I am loving the Revive so far. I want to sell Thomson, and buy a 2nd Revive.


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## prosto_mtb (Jan 7, 2017)

justinnardella said:


> Thank goodness I'm not alone. The scratch does seem to have gotten worse for me and I can just barely feel it, so I'm going to contact BikeYoke. I will post their response.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Are there any news regarding development of these scratches?

I'm concerned about durability of this post, since I want to pull the trigger on one after NY and this option is far from cheapest.

I don't see upper tube replacement part on bikeyoke website, which is sad, since you can get one for KS and RockShox posts.


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

Not everything is listed on the website, but everything is available. It's a much smaller company than the likes of ks, Fox or rockshox.

You can ask for any part you need and get just that part. You won't have to order an expensive top cap sub assembly like some, just because you need a cheap little bush (yes, I'm looking at you rockshox).


----------



## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

Here's my comprehensive review, in hopes that it'll help prospective buyers and possibly serve as a catalyst for improvement at the customer service level and the self service level. Maybe I'm unique, but I'm not interested in hearing about someone who just bought a new thing their excited about. I want info from sustained real world testing.

1. Received 160mm Revive in May '17 from Jenson. It came with the Triggy Remote. It's got hundreds of miles and thousands of vertical feet of riding steep hard terrain on a 170mm travel bike. No damage at all to post, but this bike does not always stay rubber side down and is not treated with kid gloves. The post lever gets more use than the shift lever.
2. This replaced a LEV that had been fully serviced (complete cartridge rebuild) several times. After about a half doze KS droppers in our household, that one seemed to be a lemon. All KS posts require some periodic work, but that one was horrible.
3. The first replacement attempt was with a 9point8. The post was a disaster. Install was difficult to say the least. The post was took way more weight to push down, hard for a smaller rider (mrs jm2e). The ultimate fail was the amount of effort needed to actuate the trigger. Roughly 2-3x more resistance than the LEV, which again for a smaller rider with less power and smaller hands, was not usable on difficult terrain. Ditched it.
4. The Revive was waaaaay better than the 9point8. Silky smooth up and down action, like a LEV. Very light trigger pressure, perhaps lighter than the LEV with Southpaw. Easy install. Snappy return.
5. The post works great on the trail. Easy up, easy down, no on-trail failures or hiccups of any kind. Well, that is until this last weekend riding in freezing temps. Return was significantly more sluggish. More change than noted on a LEV.
6. The Revive feature is great, but in our case it's been a mixed blessing. I am now needing to use it ever 1 to 2 rides. I've become very cognizant of whether I lay the bike on it's side and if I store the bike with the dropper pushed down. But, it fits best on the car rack with the post down, and we do lay our bikes down on their side 2-3 times each ride. 1) take the bikes off the rack and lay them down while gearing up. 2) ride to the top of first big climb, then lay the bikes down to set tire pressures for the downhills. 3) finish at car and lay bikes down while setting up car, unlocking car, pulling off gear. Maybe lay bikes down once or twice a ride for a snack? Maybe the occasional crash? Seems reasonable. Definitely not storing or transporting them laying down. Definitely not flipping bike upside down except in crashes.
7. I was told that this was "normal" and that I should just be more cognizant of laying the bike down. Kind of annoying, but "reviving" the post every ride is still waaaaaaay less work than a SINGLE LEV cartridge rebuild!!!!
8. Yesterday, I checked for sag pre-ride, found some and "revived" the post. Then I lifted the bike into a wheelie position while I wheeled it out of the garage and around the other car and garbage cans. Put bike down next to rack and tested sag. Sure enough, that quick wheelie brought the problem back. That was kind of shitty.
9. Now I keep a 4mm allen wrench in the car all the time.
10. I got a couple of the little mini Revive keys. Waaaaay too small to be useful. Lose stuff much? I do! Attach it to a key ring you say? Maybe just make it the size of a key ring! Seriously though, I broke the first one. You see, it has a ball head, then an O-Ring, then more allen wrench behind the ball head. I didn't realize this, because the O-Ring requires quite a bit of pressure to push through. So I just twisted after inserting the ball head. It twisted off instead!!!! Be warned. Also, a single 4mm allen wrench is 1000x easier to use for this application, though maybe not as safe to keep in your pocket right next to your femoral artery!
11. So, at the end of the day, I like the post. But for the price, I'll keep trying other options like the PNW or the eThirteen. I honestly can't recommend this post to friends, because I can't get away from imagining their disappointment with constant "Reviving". When I do tell them about it, I say "It's great, but be warned" 
12. Is there a new version? I have no idea. Saki didn't mention any replacement option to me. Didn't suggest my post had a known problem that was fixed. Didn't mention anything I could do on my end to service the post and get it more up to speed with a better standard. God knows, after all the KS LEV servicing I'm not going to shy away from digging into a dropper post. But I'd like to have some idea whether the outcome will bring an improvement. And stateside access to rebuild kits would be nice too.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

The newer models have a membrane that prevents the sagging when laid down, or even upside down. I have only had to revive twice, once initially, and once when I put the bike upside down, lowered, and raised the saddle to see if it would sag. Mine must have the membrane


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

Yep, I can confirm that my post does not sag like described above. The bike has been upside down and on it's side and post operates perfectly fine after. I don't know if I have the new membrane or not.


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## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

Travis, I kind of got that impression. But the Bike Yoke website doesn't mention it. Saki didn't mention it. And I really really want to know if there's something I can do to mine (cartridge rebuild, cartridge service, return/replace/warranty, etc) that would get it functioning like the newer version. Or, if Saki would just come out and say "Sorry pal, you're SOL. Live with it or buy a new one. Thanks for being a beta tester."


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## tim709 (Nov 23, 2008)

@ jm2e

You don’t have to worry about losing the mini lever, if you push it in all the way the o-ring keeps it in place. 

I have had mine in for a while with no problems despite a few unplanned offs. 

I can even do the revive with the mini lever while riding.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

jm2e said:


> Travis, I kind of got that impression. But the Bike Yoke website doesn't mention it. Saki didn't mention it. And I really really want to know if there's something I can do to mine (cartridge rebuild, cartridge service, return/replace/warranty, etc) that would get it functioning like the newer version. Or, if Saki would just come out and say "Sorry pal, you're SOL. Live with it or buy a new one. Thanks for being a beta tester."


The lever doesn't have a hex ball end, it's a straight hex with a groove cut in it for the o-ring you'd mentioned. This can be seen in the attached pic.

I bought two levers when they became available because I was convinced I'd lose one, but after inserting the first one, I'm now convinced it'll never come out. Without some intentional force pulling it out anyway.

I have big hands/long fingers so for me, "reviving" is a quick, one-handed affair with the lever.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

@jm2e, I can confirm my post does the same thing when I store the bike with the post not fully extended. When I extend the post later, it typically has a few mms of sag. 

I haven't noticed it in other situations (rolling bike on rear wheel, laying on it's side, etc).


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

tim709 said:


> @ jm2e
> 
> You don't have to worry about losing the mini lever, if you push it in all the way the o-ring keeps it in place.
> 
> ...


yeah when you push the lever in, the oring feels tight at first, but then hits a notch where it sits and o-ring expands a tiny bit, and it would take intentional pulling to remove lever. it is not coming out on it's own, even in a bad wreck.


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## smithcreek (Nov 27, 2012)

jm2e said:


> I honestly can't recommend this post to friends, because I can't get away from imagining their disappointment with constant "Reviving"..


Instead, try imagining their joy when the post gets a bit of sag and instead of either spending hours rebuilding it (which may or may not fix the problem) or sending the post back to the manufacturer for a couple weeks at a minimum, they simply take about 5 seconds to "revive" their post and their problem is fixed.


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## NotAnotherClimb (Dec 16, 2014)

smithcreek said:


> Instead, try imagining their joy when the post gets a bit of sag and instead of either spending hours rebuilding it (which may or may not fix the problem) or sending the post back to the manufacturer for a couple weeks at a minimum, they simply take about 5 seconds to "revive" their post and their problem is fixed.


Yeah, seriously. Imagine what I'm dealing with right now: A 150mm Reverb with a whopping 25mm of sag and getting worse! It's a nightmare trying to get the right seat height. I'm having strange knee pain issues probably because the seat height's changing all the time. And I have to pull my seat post out 2 inches because of the 1 inch sag and the fact it's not long enough for me to begin with.

I had the option to either painstakingly, or expensively, rebuild it or buy a new seat post. I chose the 185mm Revive because at least I won't have to rebuild it if it starts sagging.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

So to boil it down your upset you don't have the new version and you don't like the revive feature? I don't see any issues with them coming our with an update to a product after a year of production 

Also the obsession with the key thing is strange to me. Who rides without a 4mm tool? 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## wenna (Jul 7, 2016)

DriverB said:


> So to boil it down your upset you don't have the new version and you don't like the revive feature? I don't see any issues with them coming our with an update to a product after a year of production
> 
> Also the obsession with the key thing is strange to me. Who rides without a 4mm tool?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


Exactly..... Products evolve! It's a good thing


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

Hey everyone, long story short my cable snapped (user error), so when I pulled the post the actuator was completely locked up. I had to actually pry it open to get it moving again. Not sure if something was lodged in there (cable fray possibly?) but it took a pretty good deal of force to get it to budge. Has this ever happened to anyone else?


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

NotAnotherClimb said:


> I'm looking at the Revive, but very concerned that there appears to be no full service procedure. I've seen the video of the very basic service of essentially just cleaning the dust wiper.
> 
> If I'm going to spend $400, I want the seat to last more than 200 hours. What's the deal, does it really not ever need a full service? Seems unlikely.


Here is a service video, that shows, how to do a full service.
It is not public, yet, and we´re still working on the video.
It is not final, please keep this in mind. If you have any questions or if you´d like something to be explained more in detail please let us know.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

monts said:


> Hey everyone, long story short my cable snapped (user error), so when I pulled the post the actuator was completely locked up. I had to actually pry it open to get it moving again. Not sure if something was lodged in there (cable fray possibly?) but it took a pretty good deal of force to get it to budge. Has this ever happened to anyone else?


What did you have to pry open? And what exactly happened?


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

jm2e said:


> Travis, I kind of got that impression. But the Bike Yoke website doesn't mention it. Saki didn't mention it. And I really really want to know if there's something I can do to mine (cartridge rebuild, cartridge service, return/replace/warranty, etc) that would get it functioning like the newer version. Or, if Saki would just come out and say "Sorry pal, you're SOL. Live with it or buy a new one. Thanks for being a beta tester."


Could you just let me know the date, when you contacted me? I remember someone with a broken Quick reset lever (and there have only been one or two customers), but I cna not find the email anymore. If you let me know the date, I´ll be able to have a look and find it and see, what I said.
You´re not a beta tester, and it is quite normal to improve products, I guess. Right? We constantly work on new stuff, and if some of that stuff is is easy to implement, we just simply do a running change, as it happened with the Microvalve feature and the Mini-Reset-Lever.
So please just let me know the date of your first contact.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

monts said:


> Hey everyone, long story short my cable snapped (user error), so when I pulled the post the actuator was completely locked up. I had to actually pry it open to get it moving again. Not sure if something was lodged in there (cable fray possibly?) but it took a pretty good deal of force to get it to budge. Has this ever happened to anyone else?


Yes, this has been happening to me lately. After the bike sits for a day or more, the first time I try to actuate the post the lever will not budge. It takes a massive amount of force to break free the stiction. After that, the lever and post operate perfectly for the entire ride.

Yesterday the problem came to a head. First press of the remote lever, it's completely locked up, and I keep pressing harder and harder and the cable housing burst.

Today I took the post out and removed the cable. The problem is not the cable. It is the actuator lever or the plunger or a combination of the 2.

I believe the stiction is the plunger inside the post. I had to use a hex key inserted in the hole where the cable end would normally go, and I had to pull hard to get the plunger to actuate.

Once it released, the lever and plunger worked perfect again. I'm going to let it sit for a few hours and go back to see if it's locked again.

Sacki, please let us know if there is something you have found that would cause this.

Thanks!


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Regarding the video.
What oil should we use.
Can you tell us the specific oil you use, or at least the centistokes (cSt) for the oil?


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Oil specifications can be found in the attachments.
Our oil has a viscosity of ~ 16 mm²/s @ 40°C.

View attachment REVIVE Oil specifications.pdf
View attachment REVIVE_EXPLODED_VIEW.PDF


Our Oil is mixed with 5% R.S.P. No Stick Slip additive.

Oil volumes:

REVIVE 125	35 ml	+/- 2ml
REVIVE 160	41.5 ml	+/- 2ml
REVIVE 185	46 ml	+/- 2ml


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

69tr6r said:


> Yes, this has been happening to me lately. After the bike sits for a day or more, the first time I try to actuate the post the lever will not budge. It takes a massive amount of force to break free the stiction. After that, the lever and post operate perfectly for the entire ride.
> 
> Yesterday the problem came to a head. First press of the remote lever, it's completely locked up, and I keep pressing harder and harder and the cable housing burst.
> 
> ...


This is very likely due to a temperature difference between riding and storing the post.
If you ride and use the post in cold weather the oil inside the post will shrink in volume, as almost every material does. So when you go back with your post into the warm house to store the bike, the oil will want to re-extend, because it warms up. Since there is no air inside the inner chamber and the tube is retty stiff, the oil can not extend and so it will go under very high pressure. This pressure needs to be overcome - and it will be very hard to overcome with the remote or by the thumb on the remote. The easiest way to break it loose is just to use a 4mm Allen key and do a quick reset. The key will also be harder to turn, but way easier than the remote. 
This is actually a normal behaviour and can also be seen on other droppers, such as KS LEV. If a post is bled properly and the inner chamber does not contain any air, the extended oil will cause this high pressure inside.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

sacki said:


> This is very likely due to a temperature difference between riding and storing the post.
> If you ride and use the post in cold weather the oil inside the post will shrink in volume, as almost every material does. So when you go back with your post into the warm house to store the bike, the oil will want to re-extend, because it warms up. Since there is no air inside the inner chamber and the tube is retty stiff, the oil can=p
> not extend and so it will go under very high pressure. This pressure needs to be overcome - and it will be very hard to overcome with the remote or by the thumb on the remote. The easiest way to break it loose is just to use a 4mm Allen key and do a quick reset. The key will also be harder to turn, but way easier than the remote.
> This is actually a normal behaviour and can also be seen on other droppers, such as FYW25][o./K-[\S LEV. If a post is bled properly and the inner chamber does not contain any air, the extended oil will cause this high pressure inside.


Sacki, thanks, that would explain it because I riding in single digit temperatures. I used and allen wrench in the cable hole to get it moving again like 696rtr said above. Would you recommend just doing a reset after riding in the cold just to be safe? Would that stop this from happening again? i don't want to forget and then jump back on the bike and snap another cable.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

This sounds like it's a possible cause, but if you start with oil pressure that is say 100psi at indoor room temp. Then you ride in sub-freezing temps, the pressure will go down, but when the post warms back up isn't the pressure returning to 100psi?

I guess I don't get that part.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

Sacki, after reading your reply, I checked and as you said, my KS LEV (on a different bike) just did this too, I rode it yesterday in the cold and then brought it inside and just walked over and hit the lever, and yep, it was stuck. I gently was able to work it free without snapping the cable but yeah, definitely something going on here.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

Well just went for a ride with new cable, post sagged, revive didn’t work and then it locked up again, please tell me this is the start of the more dropper post BS, any ideas what to do?


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

Nice post on the service video Sacki. This is a top reason why I'm going Revive. Post to be ordered next week for my new build. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

monts said:


> Sacki, thanks, that would explain it because I riding in single digit temperatures. I used and allen wrench in the cable hole to get it moving again like 696rtr said above. Would you recommend just doing a reset after riding in the cold just to be safe? Would that stop this from happening again? i don't want to forget and then jump back on the bike and snap another cable.


No, resetting it *right after you get in from the cold* will not stop it from "locking" due to high pressure in the inner chamber. After the reset, the inner chamber would still be full with oil and the oil will still adapt to room temperature while it is standing in there.
The only way, how to prevent it, woud be following:
1. Go in the house
2. Drop the post a little bit (1 inch is enough but more is also OK)
3. Use the reset mechanism to extend the post. 
This way you will suck in a little bit of air into the inner chamber and this will create room for the oil to extend during acclimatisation. Then you will still have to do a reset before the first ride, but the pressure will not go so high.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

69tr6r said:


> This sounds like it's a possible cause, but if you start with oil pressure that is say 100psi at indoor room temp. Then you ride in sub-freezing temps, the pressure will go down, but when the post warms back up isn't the pressure returning to 100psi?
> 
> I guess I don't get that part.


No it will not go to 100psi when you come from the cold.
Just imagine:
The inner chamber is always full with the same amount/volume of oil. No matter how warm or cold it is. Now when the chamber is full with oil at cold temperature it will still want to expand, when it is going back to room temperature. However, since the oil is trapped in a closed room, it cannot extend. So it basically is being compressed (it increases its pressure to be able to stay in the same small room).
It will only go back to the said 100psi after you do a reset, because then you will have the same status as before the ride.
Sorry, I don´t know, how to explain it any differently.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

sacki said:


> No, resetting it right after you get in from the cold will not stop it from "locking" because of high pressure. After the reset, the inner chamber will still be full with oil and the oil will still adapt to room temperature while it is standing in there.
> The only way, how to prevent it, woud be following:
> 1. Go in the house
> 2. Drop the post a little bit (1 inch is enough but more is also OK)
> ...


Thanks Sacki! I think I got it back now, came back inside and did a revive, messed around with adjuster and it's good. I will follow this procedure in the harsh temps.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

monts said:


> Well just went for a ride with new cable, post sagged, revive didn't work and then it locked up again, please tell me this is the start of the more dropper post BS, any ideas what to do?


Honestly I can´t tell if "more dropper post BS" is going on, because I haven´t seen your post, or seen, what you did. However, there should be no BS going on, if all seals are still OK (what I assume), because it is very simple mechanics ans physics, that locks out our post. You can basically see in all our simulation videos, how our post works. 
If you:
1. can open and close the reset valve
2. the lever mechanism and push rod at the bottom moves in when you push the remote and moves out by itself
3. the pressue is set correctly
then I can not seen anything, that would allow the post not to lock out or become saggy.
We have tested in temperatures below 0°C (personally I have ridden in temps below -5°C) and we have Finnish and Norwegian customers who rode it way below that and did not get any problems, expect for the post will slow down of course.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

sacki said:


> Honestly I can´t tell if "more dropper post BS" is going on, because I haven´t seen your post, or seen, what you did. However, there should be no BS going on, if all seals are still OK (what I assume), because it is very simple mechanics ans physics, that locks out our post. You can basically see in all our simulation videos, how our post works.
> If you:
> 1. can open and close the reset valve
> 2. the lever mechanism and push rod at the bottom moves in when you push the remote and moves out by itself
> ...


I think it's all good now, sorry I was a little disgruntled and cold when I got back, and I had to ride with my seat up. But I appreciate the help! I'm going for a ride tmrw so hopefully all goes well.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

I hope so, too. Please keep us updated. Need to go to bed now, it´s 3:30 in the morning here in Germany.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

monts said:


> Hey everyone, long story short my cable snapped (user error), so when I pulled the post the actuator was completely locked up. I had to actually pry it open to get it moving again. Not sure if something was lodged in there (cable fray possibly?) but it took a pretty good deal of force to get it to budge. Has this ever happened to anyone else?


Sounds like below it was some issue due to low temps, but what I had happen which was similar was apparently water and/or mud worked its way into the cable housing (from the remote) and rusted the cable solid. I went to actuate it one day before a ride, and it just wouldn't budge, and eventually slipped through the tightening bolt on my remote (Wolf Tooth). I removed the dropper and pulled the cable from the other side and discovered the rust on the cable. After I replaced the cable, it was fine.


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## smithcreek (Nov 27, 2012)

I put a rubber band around the trigger to hold it open after very cold rides while the bike warms up. You can also get it unstuck by getting it very cold again like I did by taking for another ride. I can also tell you that cranking on the little revive lever is not a great idea, it will break.


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## prosto_mtb (Jan 7, 2017)

The easiest prevention measure is to keep seatpost lowered half the way after a cold ride.
Works with my LEV at least.

BTW, great video sacki.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

sacki said:


> No it will not go to 100psi when you come from the cold.
> Just imagine:
> The inner chamber is always full with the same amount/volume of oil. No matter how warm or cold it is. Now when the chamber is full with oil at cold temperature it will still want to expand, when it is going back to room temperature. However, since the oil is trapped in a closed room, it cannot extend. So it basically is being compressed (it increases its pressure to be able to stay in the same small room).
> It will only go back to the said 100psi after you do a reset, because then you will have the same status as before the ride.
> Sorry, I don´t know, how to explain it any differently.


I think I get what you're saying. I can't really explain it any better either!

FWIW - my post behaved normally after sitting over night in the house, so there is not a problem with anything on the post. I'll just have to remember to lower the post a bit after a cold ride.

Thanks!


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

sacki said:


> I hope so, too. Please keep us updated. Need to go to bed now, it´s 3:30 in the morning here in Germany.


Went for a ride again yesterday 10 degrees F, got back home, took bike inside and lowered the post halfway. Checked the function of the post after a few hours and it was fairly easy to raise when I pressed the trigger. I did notice a very slight increase in pressure but not at all like the other day when the cable snapped. Checked again today and it's fine. So this seemed to work! Will do it on my LEV too when cold weather riding. Thanks for the help.


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## drake182 (Jan 4, 2018)

Just got my 160mm Bike Yoke Revive in today, the last part I was waiting for for a custom build. Purchased from ModernBike, it is the V2 version of the post with the mini lever included. The post seems to be of OUTSTANDING quality. It feels extremely solid. This dropper is one of the highest quality, if not THE highest quality, components I have ever laid my hands on. I am thoroughly impressed by the workmanship and effort Bike Yoke has put into this amazing piece of functional technology. However, when unboxing I started to put the mini lever on the post and accidentally shaved part of the o-ring off on the 4mm allen bolt. I guess it could have been because the rubber was cold and weaker from being outside in the shipping box or just user error on the way I was attempting to install it. The o-ring is still barely intact for now, missing a chunk of rubber on one side. I was wondering what the exact dimensions of the o-ring were as I see you can order them online for dirt cheap. I measured it to be about 4mm outside diameter, 3.2mm inside diameter, leaving it to be about .8mm thickness. But, I don't see o-rings that are that exact size. Has anyone else accidentally ripped their lever o-ring and had to get a new one? Such a tiny piece of rubber that has a pretty substantial function (Hah). Thanks!


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

monts said:


> Went for a ride again yesterday 10 degrees F, got back home, took bike inside and lowered the post halfway. Checked the function of the post after a few hours and it was fairly easy to raise when I pressed the trigger. I did notice a very slight increase in pressure but not at all like the other day when the cable snapped. Checked again today and it's fine. So this seemed to work! Will do it on my LEV too when cold weather riding. Thanks for the help.


I did the same, took a ride at 20F and brought the bike inside and set the post at halfway. It worked perfectly after it was left alone overnight at halfway. No extra force needed to push the lever. I do think there may be a tiny bit of squish now, so I will just do a Reset.

Thanks!

PS - I had a KS i950 that failed in the cold and needed to be rebuilt. I'm sure it had something to do with this pressure differential that we see when the post goes from warm to cold and vice-versa.


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## Kirkerik (Apr 21, 2016)

*Thought I'd report back in...*

I love my revive post, so far it has been working great. I got it this summer and have not "revived" it once. Just to see what would develop. No issues. Has the slightest tiny bit of sag maybe 1/8" but just forget to reset it.

I've been riding down to 10* F or so. Works great. Oiled my cable well when installing. Water ingress and freezing conditions don't mix. Pogies help keep the snow off the top side.

I also did a BB shell mod on my 907 to keep the cable in the frame all the way up to the head tube.

Check out my mod here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/9-zero-7-love-1002113-8.html#post13415611


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## smithcreek (Nov 27, 2012)

drake182 said:


> Just got my 160mm Bike Yoke Revive in today, the last part I was waiting for for a custom build. Purchased from ModernBike, it is the V2 version of the post with the mini lever included. The post seems to be of OUTSTANDING quality. It feels extremely solid. This dropper is one of the highest quality, if not THE highest quality, components I have ever laid my hands on. I am thoroughly impressed by the workmanship and effort Bike Yoke has put into this amazing piece of functional technology. However, when unboxing I started to put the mini lever on the post and accidentally shaved part of the o-ring off on the 4mm allen bolt. I guess it could have been because the rubber was cold and weaker from being outside in the shipping box or just user error on the way I was attempting to install it. The o-ring is still barely intact for now, missing a chunk of rubber on one side. I was wondering what the exact dimensions of the o-ring were as I see you can order them online for dirt cheap. I measured it to be about 4mm outside diameter, 3.2mm inside diameter, leaving it to be about .8mm thickness. But, I don't see o-rings that are that exact size. Has anyone else accidentally ripped their lever o-ring and had to get a new one? Such a tiny piece of rubber that has a pretty substantial function (Hah). Thanks!


Any decent hardware store will have a small selection of o-rings, usually in the plumbing section. I can think of at least two hardware stores within 5 minutes of my house that would have o-rings that are "close enough". Just bring the lever in with you and find one that fits.


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

I'm sold on these posts. The best out there.

Revive! | Peter Verdone Designs


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

> Gravity Dropper (worst garbage ever)


After those words .. uhmm.. well...


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

ka81ua said:


> After those words .. uhmm.. well...


Yeah, and this one.

"Enter the BikeYoke Revive. Early last year it was announced and it was an instant hit with the keyboard jockeys on the internet. Every shitty 'mechanic' that couldn't figure out how to service a seatpost were drooling over this post. It held the promise of resetting the IFP to bleed the air from the system. That's all fine but it wasn't that big of an issue for a guy like me. I have been fixing this issue on other posts for years. If you know how to actually work on bicycles this isn't the biggest deal in the world. I need something that helps me when I'm on the bike."

So the early adopters of the Revive were just shitty "mechanics"? Maybe we were all fixing the problems of those other post for years too. Maybe we were just tired of fixing the garbage Reverb and wanted to get out and ride more.

Get off your high horse.


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## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

ugh. delete.


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## VitaliT (Jan 17, 2015)

service mechanic reaction?






what next, rockshox going to suit them for making reverb better again?


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## smithcreek (Nov 27, 2012)

So it gets the official endorsement of the "Johnny Come Lately Institute of Delayed Adopters"? Good. I've had mine for a little while but I wasn't sure if I was allowed to like it yet.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

69tr6r said:


> Yeah, and this one.
> 
> "Enter the BikeYoke Revive. Early last year it was announced and it was an instant hit with the keyboard jockeys on the internet. Every shitty 'mechanic' that couldn't figure out how to service a seatpost were drooling over this post. It held the promise of resetting the IFP to bleed the air from the system. That's all fine but it wasn't that big of an issue for a guy like me. I have been fixing this issue on other posts for years. If you know how to actually work on bicycles this isn't the biggest deal in the world. I need something that helps me when I'm on the bike."
> 
> ...


Guy should be sending me offers on my jammed Specialized command post. I'll also sell him my Transfer for $300, since it's so easy to rebuild these.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

I think it is just his way of rationalizing being late to the game on this one. PVD took a deep dive into Reverbs, as I recall. Which is a service to Reverb owners. He may be his own biggest fan but he is also a sharp guy that has long put a fair bit of effort into providing useful and interesting original content which is a rare service on the interwebs these days. So I cut him some slack for the in-your-face ego, it often goes with the territory and is entirely harmless as long as there is some substance to back it up.


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

I have a lot of critics. They all lack knowlege and any kind of portfolio. Strange correlation.


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Video on inner cartridge rebuild is great. Oil change looks easy! But they are going to need bigger t-shirts for us Americans.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

pvd said:


> I have a lot of critics. They all lack knowlege and any kind of portfolio. Strange correlation.


Oh it's so cute. )


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

sacki said:


> I hope so, too. Please keep us updated. Need to go to bed now, it´s 3:30 in the morning here in Germany.


Sacki, my post has been returning kinda slow for my taste, and when reading the manual it seems I need the adapter to add air. I looked all over and I don't think one came in my box. I still have the original box and it's not in there anywhere. How can I get this adapter? Thanks.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Not saying, it is, but it is ALMOST impossible, that the adapter was missing, because the adapter is in the same small plastic-shrink-bag as the cable barrel, which you need to out on the cable. 
Just to make sure: The adapter looks like this: 







So please double check the plastic bag.

When adjusting the pressue, please,very important: follo the right procedure:
1 Always adjust or check the pressue with the post right side uo and extended.
2. Do a proper reset, extend the post and let the post rest for at least 30 seconds before echecking/releasing the pressure 
3. Always release pressure slowly and only with the pump attached


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

sacki said:


> Not saying, it is, but it is ALMOST impossible, that the adapter was missing, because the adapter is in the same small plastic-shrink-bag as the cable barrel, which you need to out on the cable.
> Just to make sure: The adapter looks like this:
> View attachment 1177361
> 
> ...


I'll check again once more when I get home, but if I don't have one, how do I get one? Thanks.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Please check first and then let me know by email. We shouldn´t spam the thread here with this. We´ll get this sorted, don´t worry.


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## cunningstunts (Sep 1, 2011)

Joel Fitzgerald said:


> Hey all, i've had the bikeyoke revive for a few months now.. Just recently noticed it's feeling a bit rougher than usual and also there is a verticle mark appearing on the stanchion around an inch or so long. Like a fine scratch/wear mark.
> Wondering if I need to pull it apart and service it? Seemed a bit early for that..
> Cheers
> Joel


hey JF. that's pretty weird. would you mind posting a photo of this? is it getting worse with use?


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## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

hey all, I'm just about to purchase one of these on a friends recommendation.....he says its simply the best post hes ever had! (he owns a suspenion biz, and has used all and fixes loads of others)

one question I have, is I have to load the bike up in the car, side ways, with the dropper post down, as long as 2hrs some times longer, some times shorter...is this going to cause a huge issue every ride, or simple as just resetting if it sags? will there be any long term problems with doing this as I have to do it every single ride

cheers folks!


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

I can't speak to the long term issue, but it will be a simple reset if you do get sag. 

Go for it, you will love the post!


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

Didzy2009 said:


> hey all, I'm just about to purchase one of these on a friends recommendation.....he says its simply the best post hes ever had! (he owns a suspenion biz, and has used all and fixes loads of others)
> 
> one question I have, is I have to load the bike up in the car, side ways, with the dropper post down, as long as 2hrs some times longer, some times shorter...is this going to cause a huge issue every ride, or simple as just resetting if it sags? will there be any long term problems with doing this as I have to do it every single ride
> 
> cheers folks!


just do maybe two resets, and go ride

will add 30 seconds to your routine at most


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## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

69tr6r said:


> I can't speak to the long term issue, but it will be a simple reset if you do get sag.
> 
> Go for it, you will love the post!


Thanks for the fast response! sounds spot on, ive got a wolftooth remote to go with it, so should be great and finally reliable!!


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Didzy2009 said:


> one question I have, is I have to load the bike up in the car, side ways, with the dropper post down, as long as 2hrs some times longer, some times shorter...is this going to cause a huge issue every ride, or simple as just resetting if it sags? will there be any long term problems with doing this as I have to do it every single ride
> 
> cheers folks!


This is how I transport my bike. Never ever had to use revive function.


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## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

arnea said:


> This is how I transport my bike. Never ever had to use revive function.


Awesome news , cheers for that! 

Ordered!


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## tim709 (Nov 23, 2008)

@Didzy

I transport my bike on its side in the bed of a pickup. Relatively short trips of 10-20 minutes. I have not had any sag develop. 

That being said, if I did, it takes literally seconds to do a reset with the lever. 

Tim


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## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

thanks folks reassuring!

quick install question, im comnig from a transfer thats attached at the min, im assuming the outer cable will be fine, as per my transfer

so ill need to install a new inner cable, making sure its 17mm length after the housing

question is (and probably dumb) my wolftooth lever is snipped/crimped at the lever end of the wolftooth, yet the install doc on revive says you are to crimp the end on the post itself?

so on a wolftooth can i just install the cable starting at the lever end, and leave the end bit in place on the lever, or do i still need to crimp the wolftooth end also? so basically ill need to crimp both ends of the cable? 

sorry for the rubbish description lol


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

Didzy2009 said:


> thanks folks reassuring!
> 
> quick install question, im comnig from a transfer thats attached at the min, im assuming the outer cable will be fine, as per my transfer
> 
> ...


Yep you got it. If your new revive is longer than your old post you can even keep using the old cable and housing without touching anything at the lever side since you are keeping your current lever.
You would just have to appropriately shorten the housing and cable.
That's what I did going from a 125 post to my 160 bikeyoke. I kept my specialized lever.

Also I transport my bike on its side all the time and it never needs a reset from that. I think the times it needs a reset are when I leave my bike upside down overnight. And even then it doesn't really need it. The sagging is miniscule and only noticeable when you are looking for it.


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## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

ac1000 said:


> Yep you got it. If your new revive is longer than your old post you can even keep using the old cable and housing without touching anything at the lever side since you are keeping your current lever.
> You would just have to appropriately shorten the housing and cable.
> That's what I did going from a 125 post to my 160 bikeyoke. I kept my specialized lever.
> 
> Also I transport my bike on its side all the time and it never needs a reset from that. I think the times it needs a reset are when I leave my bike upside down overnight. And even then it doesn't really need it. The sagging is miniscule and only noticeable when you are looking for it.


Awesome thanks for that bud, I hadn't thought about just leaving the lever side alone at all....

my transfer is a 150mm drop, and ive gone to a 160mm revive, so basically as long as there is 17mm spare cable the seatpost side, I should be fine to just cut there and simply put the bits on that end, without even having to go near the lever side

no doubt knowing my luck it wont work out that easy, but still....appreciate the response 

the reset thing sounds spot on, what a genius idea! I'm not concerned about even having to do it regular as it literally takes seconds


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## smithcreek (Nov 27, 2012)

Anyone in the States selling service kits yet?


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## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

Ordering direct from Bikeyoke to the states is no problem. I've done it twice and transit time to the east coast was about a week.


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## smithcreek (Nov 27, 2012)

Thanks Matt! I'll do that.


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

Very happy with my 160mm Revive with my '18 Trek Slash.

The post doesn't insert fully in the seat tube but the low stack height makes it work out well and 160mm seems to be the perfect amount of drop for me too. After the LBS recommended Fox Transfer ended up being too tall I got dimensions for various posts and figured out the Revive would work... but it would be down to the mm. This ended up being the case, luckily it did work out. The top setting is perfect and the bottom setting is much lower vs the Transfer.

It works in cold weather and I very much look forward to having what will hopefully be a much more reliable and easy to service post vs my old Reverb. So far so good!


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## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

Just got mine installed tonight...lovely bit of kit ended up starting fresh with new cable inner and outer and all good after a slight mishap with that crap tool , that i managed snap off in the reset valve!! Luckily i have a mate who talked me thro a fix (hey rick if your reading lol) so all good again ...phewww!

I do have a the smallest tiniest amount of sag if you feel with your fingers and press down, not sag as in its obvious just a tiny amount? Is this pretty normal amongst others? Its rock solid in every aspect of side to side play etc

Its not noticeable saggin sat on it at all, just if you put your fingers at the where the tubes meet you can feel just a little bit of it? Normal or not normal? 

Ive done a few resets now and when i got it it had around 10-15mm sag from transport so the reset valve is obviously working


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

Didzy2009 said:


> Its not noticeable saggin sat on it at all, just if you put your fingers at the where the tubes meet you can feel just a little bit of it? Normal or not normal?


Normal on mine. They mention this on the website. No way I could feel that with my butt though.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

davec113 said:


> Very happy with my 160mm Revive with my '18 Trek Slash.
> 
> The post doesn't insert fully in the seat tube


That's not really the point of a dropper post. It's to give you drop from your normal seated climb/flat ground position, not be able to sit flush with the end of the seat-tube.


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## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

ac1000 said:


> Normal on mine. They mention this on the website. No way I could feel that with my butt though.


Good spot and cheers, just read up and it says 1-2mm is normal....that's good enough for me! mines is probs ~1mm max, and you have to really feel for it with your fingers where the tubes meet, you cant feel it by pushing down on the saddle

its absolutely solid, no rotational play, if it stays like this combined with the smoothness then its by far the best ive ever had!

I'm now on my 2nd transfer, which has been fault free in terms of reliability, but its got that much rotational play, you can feel it when climbing, I'm sending it back for warranty, I can feel my bum moving on climbs, 2nd one that's developed like this, as for reverbs, well its inevitable they all get the sag.....

just a warning, if you use the little reset tool, I didn't see you had to sort of twist it in to get it in properly, mine snapped leaving it clean off inside! if this does happen to you, remove the little rubber oring that will have snapped off in side to with a pin/needle, then push out the stuck in bit from the other side (its hollow!), my mate saved my sanity with that last night


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

Jayem said:


> That's not really the point of a dropper post. It's to give you drop from your normal seated climb/flat ground position, not be able to sit flush with the end of the seat-tube.


Lol, thanks! And you missed the point of what I said.

In many frames both the length of the dropper AND the stack height may need to be taken into consideration.


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## forward (Apr 7, 2016)

I have been riding bikeyoke revive 160 dropper post as low as -20c temperature without issues. Only problem that I have encountered has been the cold-to-warm temp change lockout to post, but if I drop the post down when I bring my bike to room temperature then there is no need to reset the post because of the "lockout". Just like sacki explained in this topic earlier.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

forward said:


> I have been riding bikeyoke revive 160 dropper post as low as -20c temperature without issues. Only problem that I have encountered has been the cold-to-warm temp change lockout to post, but if I drop the post down when I bring my bike to room temperature then there is no need to reset the post because of the "lockout". Just like sacki explained in this topic earlier.


Yep, just dropping the post a couple inches after coming inside has worked fine for me. I've used this post without a problem in single digit Fahrenheit temps without any other issues.


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## waldog (Nov 4, 2005)

*Was loving my Revive, now not so much.... being dramatic... but....*

So, was loving my post.

Not a single thing to complain about. Now though, i'm ready to toss the thing.

I had lower the height of the post in my frame, as in release saddle clamp and lower it. Now the bloody thing has gone whack!

I can't activate the post without the end of the cable outer unseating from the bottom of the post. If tried more tension, less tension, more cable out in the frame.... everything that i can think of relating to the stupid cable, but nothing works... I push the lever, you feel the cable come out and it's all over.

Seriously, this shouldn't be hard to fix. Thoughts?

The only thing i can think of is that the frame is causing the cable outer to bend at slightly different angle causing it to come free, due to post being deeper in the frame and closer to the bend in the seat tube...

Help.

Please.


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## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

Could it be the orientation of the cable stop?

I ordered a 160 for the wife's bike after some very careful measurement. It sits so deep in the frame, it spares space with a pivot point where the inner diameter of the seat tube is flattened very slightly. If I run the cable stop parallel to the line of the bike, it won't play nicely. If I run the cable stop perpendicular to the line of the bike, it's spot on.

Maybe it's fouling a bottle boss, mech mount or frame pivot?


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## smithcreek (Nov 27, 2012)

waldog said:


> So, was loving my post.
> 
> Not a single thing to complain about. Now though, i'm ready to toss the thing.
> 
> ...


To be clear, a few questions. If you move the seat back up to the old height does it work normally? Nothing where the cable housing seats was damaged when you lowered it, the cable still seats fully down into the stop? Does the cable come out of the stop immediately as you push the lever the first time, or does it come out after you release the lever and then try to push it a second time? If it's the first time it would mean the housing is coming out of the bottom of the post just by installing the post. If it comes out on the second or third time it's from something binding.


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## bogeydog (Apr 13, 2015)

Sounds like cable is too long. 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

Edit: Missed this and a few other similar posts


69tr6r said:


> Yes, this has been happening to me lately. After the bike sits for a day or more, the first time I try to actuate the post the lever will not budge. It takes a massive amount of force to break free the stiction. After that, the lever and post operate perfectly for the entire ride.
> 
> Yesterday the problem came to a head. First press of the remote lever, it's completely locked up, and I keep pressing harder and harder and the cable housing burst.
> 
> ...


Similar story this last weekend. I was at work and got a text from mrs jm2e on a solo ride. Her lever was jammed and she couldn't get the post to drop. This was at the top of a 2000ft downhill!!!
After being convinced that it wouldn't budge, she pushed as hard as she could with both thumbs, thought it was going to break and finally it freed up.

I'll try the advice to store with post partially lowered. This is starting to feel like owning a puppy. Real sweet and lovable but before leaving with anyone else you have to give them a lengthy list of her peculiarities and how to help her behave properly.


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## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

Hey guys

Well a week in and this post is awesome...so so solid no matter rain or shine, snow or freezing temps!

However i have got a creak at the tip of my saddle....its carbon rails and was silent on my transfer so im not convinced at all its the saddle

Its only pushing/seated on the front tip of the saddle

When im seated climbing etc from the bum area/ rear it doesnt make a sound..so its actually not really notcieable for me as i dont use the tip of the saddle often...i can replicate it by pushin down on the tip of the saddle

Also i torqeu the botls to 7nm...the front bolt remains at 7nm after every ride but the rear i have to keep re torquing? 

Any ideas?


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

Didzy2009 said:


> Hey guys
> 
> Well a week in and this post is awesome...so so solid no matter rain or shine, snow or freezing temps!
> 
> ...


yeah, search mtbr and maybe this thread. someone posted about a revive creak and ways to mess with it


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

jm2e said:


> Edit: Missed this and a few other similar posts
> 
> Similar story this last weekend. I was at work and got a text from mrs jm2e on a solo ride. Her lever was jammed and she couldn't get the post to drop. This was at the top of a 2000ft downhill!!!
> After being convinced that it wouldn't budge, she pushed as hard as she could with both thumbs, thought it was going to break and finally it freed up.
> ...


Only happened to me after bringing the bike in from the cold, and then going back to room temperature. Was there a temperature swing that you know of?


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

jm2e said:


> This is starting to feel like owning a puppy. Real sweet and lovable but before leaving with anyone else you have to give them a lengthy list of her peculiarities and how to help her behave properly.


There is actually only one thing that is different than other posts: the revive function. Other posts just don't have this useful function.

Reviving also helps in case of the "frozen" post like your wife had. Just revive it and lever moves freely again. So, if you let others to take your bike, show them how reviving works and it solves all problems.

Had to chime in, because I'm really happy with my post and think it is nice product from nice people. Good engineering.


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## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

127.0.0.1 said:


> yeah, search mtbr and maybe this thread. someone posted about a revive creak and ways to mess with it


had a read through, not really seen any solutions as such, someones mentioned some brass shims, but not going down that route, never had to such things before on a seat post....I thought about carbon paste maybe?

also the installation booklet says 5nm for the bolts, but the actual post says to tighten to 7nm

my saddle recommends 9nm so which one do I use lol :skep:

to anyone being put off, don't bother, its an amazing seat post, if you get one, and use it, you will notice straight away the difference in quality smoothness and instant reliability.....

the creak on the tip of mine, isn't really a problem due to me not actually sitting ever on the tip, but id just like to fix it in the anal sense of making sure everythings tip top on the bike


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

Didzy2009 said:


> had a read through, not really seen any solutions as such, someones mentioned some brass shims, but not going down that route, never had to such things before on a seat post....I thought about carbon paste maybe?
> 
> also the installation booklet says 5nm for the bolts, but the actual post says to tighten to 7nm
> 
> ...


7nm


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## oikeith (Feb 15, 2017)

Does it say tighten to 7nm or max 7nm? 

I was told where it says max to go within 10%ish of it, dont go to the max, for this I would go to 6nm to see if that sorts it.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

Anyone know what is wrong if I'm doing a revive but the post still will not drop when I turn the 4mm? Only way it will drop is if I use the lever. I know it dropped before by only turning the allen key, now it won't.


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## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

I've always had to depress the lever to drop the post when reviving.


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## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

cheers folks, ill go to near 7nm max then, maybe it will settle down in a few rides perhaps


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

amish_matt said:


> I've always had to depress the lever to drop the post when reviving.


should not have to use the remote. revive lever alone and shove it down.

just like this





if your revive bolt doesn't let you push post down sumting is wrong or you
aren't turning bolt all the way.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

127.0.0.1 said:


> should not have to use the remote. revive lever alone and shove it down.
> 
> just like this
> 
> ...


Hey thanks, I tried again after this and it worked correctly, maybe I wasn't turning the bolt all the way. I thought I was, but it's working fine again.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

Didzy2009 said:


> cheers folks, ill go to near 7nm max then, maybe it will settle down in a few rides perhaps


Anti seize paste is appropriate, per the manufacturer spec. Try something like Finish Line.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## smithcreek (Nov 27, 2012)

jm2e said:


> I'll try the advice to store with post partially lowered. This is starting to feel like owning a puppy. Real sweet and lovable but before leaving with anyone else you have to give them a lengthy list of her peculiarities and how to help her behave properly.


Yes, it is quite an onerous chore to point out how the revive feature works and that in the unlikely event they ride when it's 10 degree F to drop the post an inch or so when they bring it inside. I mean, if you lend your bike to three people a year, well, there's a minute of your life you ain't gonnn get back!


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

Received my 185 last week, ordered direct from Germany. I actually got a better deal that way. This thing is truly a work of engineering art! These are type of parts you want to build your bike with

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## Kirkerik (Apr 21, 2016)

Didzy2009 said:


> had a read through, not really seen any solutions as such, someones mentioned some brass shims, but not going down that route, never had to such things before on a seat post....I thought about carbon paste maybe?
> 
> also the installation booklet says 5nm for the bolts, but the actual post says to tighten to 7nm
> 
> ...


I would email Revive directly about it. They got back to me pretty quick w my questions.

Having carbon rails, they prob are a lil bit more flexy than steel or Ti. Maybe that's why the 9nm torque listed on the carbon railed saddle. Might take a bit more torque to seat those rails. If the saddle is moving at all then it can walk a bolt loose. If the rear bolt is loose then look there first. It may be the rear of the saddle rails are not fully seated in the clamps of the post due to the flexy nature of carbon or similar.

I have a carbon saddle and when i installed it (not on my revive) the rails did not fit exactly perfect in the clamp grooves. I was amazed at the difference of flex when compared to ti rails. The carbon rails just kept taking more and more torque. What i mean is they are just more compliant and they needed a lil more to stop creaking.

Go easy and feel it out. DON'T HAM FIST IT!

MAYBE try 9nm after talking w revive.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

34.9 is being released!


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

Had to adjust my seat post last night and it's stuck in my Nimble 9 steel frame. Won't budge at all. I just moved it no less than a week ago and applied anti-seize. That being said, It's been cold wet/damp/muddy in PA and I've been riding. Had to spray bike off the other day and used some soapy water, and dried it off like I've done with all my other bikes and droppers without an issue. Went back to make some adjustments last night and the thing won't move. Not good. I know KS Lev had this issue some time ago. Sent an e-mail to Sacki. Anyone else or am I the first? really no explanation for it seizing up this quickly. new frame, new post, wtf. Any ideas?


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## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

Kirkerik said:


> I would email Revive directly about it. They got back to me pretty quick w my questions.
> 
> Having carbon rails, they prob are a lil bit more flexy than steel or Ti. Maybe that's why the 9nm torque listed on the carbon railed saddle. Might take a bit more torque to seat those rails. If the saddle is moving at all then it can walk a bolt loose. If the rear bolt is loose then look there first. It may be the rear of the saddle rails are not fully seated in the clamps of the post due to the flexy nature of carbon or similar.
> 
> ...


thanks man for the info, ill drop them an email to confirm it all


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## Kirkerik (Apr 21, 2016)

monts said:


> Had to adjust my seat post last night and it's stuck in my Nimble 9 steel frame. Won't budge at all. I just moved it no less than a week ago and applied anti-seize. That being said, It's been cold wet/damp/muddy in PA and I've been riding. Had to spray bike off the other day and used some soapy water, and dried it off like I've done with all my other bikes and droppers without an issue. Went back to make some adjustments last night and the thing won't move. Not good. I know KS Lev had this issue some time ago. Sent an e-mail to Sacki. Anyone else or am I the first? really no explanation for it seizing up this quickly. new frame, new post, wtf. Any ideas?


Isit frozen as in freezing water? Bring it in to thaw out.

With the recent temp. swing it may have flash rusted on you when it warmed up if not enough anti-seize applied. The silver automotive stuff for bolts?? That stuff does not hold up well to adverse conditions in my experience. Aluminum and steel in contact w each other being "dissimilar metals" will rust very easily.

I spray the inside of my frame w Fluid Film lanolin based lubricant and rust protectant. It's in my seat tube also. It works awesome and is all natural too. I also drill a small weep hole (1/16") in the bottom of the BB shell on all my bikes to purge water.

Bring it in. Start soaking it w a thin penetrating oil from the top. If that does not work you can pull the BB and soak it from the bottom w the bike upside down. Some gentle heat (from a heat gun) may help move the oil.

Good luck, and try to resist brute force! That's a nice frame. (And dropper)


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

Kirkerik said:


> Isit frozen as in freezing water? Bring it in to thaw out. With the recent temp. swing it may have flash rusted on you when it warmed up if not enough anti-seize applied. The silver automotive stuff for bolts?? That stuff does not hold up well to adverse conditions in my experience.
> 
> I spray the inside of my frame w Fluid Film lanolin based lubricant and rust protectant. It's in my seat tube also. It works awesome and is all natural too. I also drill a small weep hole (1/16") in the bottom of the BB shell on all my bikes to purge water.
> 
> ...


Thanks man, yeah, it's been inside for a few days now after the cold muddy ride so it can't be frozen. And yep, I'm pretty sure i used the anti-seize your describing. The thing is, I've used that on all of my other bikes and never had an issue like this! I'm going to try a few things later. Probably go with PB blaster first. I don't see how it could be completely stuck after I just moved it around less than a week ago so I'm hoping it doesn't take much.


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## Kirkerik (Apr 21, 2016)

Yo welcome!
pb blaster is nasty stuff but it works. Clean that stuff out well after. It may very well remove the anodizing on the Revive! Careful!

Again highly recommend the Fluid Film for protection. Auto parts store and Lowes have it.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

Finally pulled the trigger on ordering a Revive for an upcoming build, thanks for all the great discussion. Seems like a brilliant design, and for anybody else considering purchase, Jenson has them for 20% off right now. $318 for a 160mm post of this quality is a hell of a deal!


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

monts said:


> Had to adjust my seat post last night and it's stuck in my Nimble 9 steel frame. Won't budge at all. I just moved it no less than a week ago and applied anti-seize. That being said, It's been cold wet/damp/muddy in PA and I've been riding. Had to spray bike off the other day and used some soapy water, and dried it off like I've done with all my other bikes and droppers without an issue. Went back to make some adjustments last night and the thing won't move. Not good. I know KS Lev had this issue some time ago. Sent an e-mail to Sacki. Anyone else or am I the first? really no explanation for it seizing up this quickly. new frame, new post, wtf. Any ideas?


Try Hoppe's no.9 oil, heat, repeat


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Btw what was the torque spec on the seatpost clamp for these?


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## smithcreek (Nov 27, 2012)

5 nm.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

monts said:


> And yep, I'm pretty sure i used the anti-seize your describing.


How sure is pretty sure? This is not an insignificant detail relative to your problem

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## monts (May 24, 2011)

DriverB said:


> How sure is pretty sure? This is not an insignificant detail relative to your problem
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


100% sure I used anti-seize 
99% sure I used the type of anti-seize that is being described in the post.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

monts said:


> 100% sure I used anti-seize
> 99% sure I used the type of anti-seize that is being described in the post.


Got it. I don't think the type would have much effect as long as you're using it. Anti Seize would be appropriate vs Carbon paste assuming the inside of your seat tube is aluminum. Finish Line makes this.

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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

Didzy2009 said:


> thanks man for the info, ill drop them an email to confirm it all


Mine is doing the same, Ti rails, pretty sure it's low torque.

I'm using Park carbon paste but have not broke out the torque wrench, I think it's needed as we probably need to approach max torque to keep the squeaking away.

The saddle definitely doesn't creak when it's not mounted, I don't think it's the problem.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

DriverB said:


> Got it. I don't think the type would have much effect as long as you're using it. Anti Seize would be appropriate vs Carbon paste assuming the inside of your seat tube is aluminum. Finish Line makes this.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


It's a steel frame (canfield nimble 9), Sacki said to use grease (i e-mailed him).


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

davec113 said:


> Mine is doing the same, Ti rails, pretty sure it's low torque.
> 
> I'm using Park carbon paste but have not broke out the torque wrench, I think it's needed as we probably need to approach max torque to keep the squeaking away.
> 
> The saddle definitely doesn't creak when it's not mounted, I don't think it's the problem.


To fix the squeek, the saddle and mounting hardware need to be removed, cleaned, apply anti-seize anywhere metal contacts metal, carbon paste to the seat rail channels and re-assemble.

Anti-seize should be applied to the bolt threads as well as the bottom surface of the bolt head, also inside the cavities the nuts sit inside. Doing this reduces friction and allows more torque to go to turning the bolt rather than overcoming friction. So for the same torque you get increased clamping force. This also means proper torque is lower, so be careful of this. A torque spec doesn't mean anything if the fastner isn't prepared correctly, and can vary by large amounts depending on lubrication type. For the threads it's possible assembly lube would be a better choice but without knowing how the torque specs were chosen to begin with it's all a crapshoot if you want to achieve just the right clamping force.

In any case... no more squeeky saddle!


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

monts said:


> It's a steel frame (canfield nimble 9), Sacki said to use grease (i e-mailed him).


This is unfortunate it happened so quickly, even using grease!

Penetrating oil and heat may be useful to prep, maybe not.

You need to figure out how to hit the top of the seatpost with a large metal hammer without damaging it. Many small taps can often work instead of one big hit. Heat the frame until it's hot to the touch but don't go too far or the paint will bubble. You might also be able to grab the post with a strap-type wrench and apply some torque.

I'm not sure there is any good way to go here except some heat, oil and force. Good luck!


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

DriverB said:


> Got it. I don't think the type would have much effect as long as you're using it. Anti Seize would be appropriate vs Carbon paste assuming the inside of your seat tube is aluminum. Finish Line makes this.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


Due to the low torque that all dropper posts use (lest they bind) it's not realistic to use anything other than friction paste.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

Jayem said:


> Due to the low torque that all dropper posts use (lest they bind) it's not realistic to use anything other than friction paste.


Are you suggesting the 5nm max spec torque dictates friction paste, or said differently that Anti-seize paste at 5nm does not hold? I haven't installed mine yet but this would seem strange, particularly since the manual specification states friction or Anti-seize (and not grease in all caps, which increases necessary clamping force).

Friction paste contains microspheres and should be used for carbon to decrease necessary clamp force. Anti-seize is for titanium or aluminum (but can work for other metals), and prevents galvanic corrosion and the like. It is not necessary for carbon on metal interfaces.

Edit: from the Revive Manual:

"Always use suitable grease on contacting faces betweenseatpost and seattube in order to avoid potential corrosion.Use friction paste only, if proper clamping is not possiblewith greased components. Contact us before applyingfriction paste."

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## monts (May 24, 2011)

thanks, that's what we've been doing, small taps... made some progress today... hopefully soon. this is stressful


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

I serviced my Revive for the first time. I stopped noticing any excess grease at the top of my post after a ride, so I decided to crack open my post and regrease. I used Slick Honey to grease the internals.

Some tips:

1. I did NOT let the air out of my post before doing the service. No problems.

2. My 7mm Stanley wrench measured 4.3mm wide v. 3.9mm for the wrench in the service video, and I couldn't fit my 7mm wrench all the way onto the wrench flats. I used an 8" crescent wrench on the other wrench flats. Luckily, the black end piece unscrewed with little force. When I reassembled, because the black end piece wasn't screwed into the end of the rod anymore, I could now fit my 7mm wrench all the way onto the flats, but when I screwed the black end piece back on and tightened, my 7mm wrench was stuck. So I had to loosen the black end piece again to free my wrench, then fit my 7mm wrench only partially on the flats, then retighten. I tightened to what I estimate was 1-2 Nm.

3. The large snap ring is removed by squeezing the holes together. On the other hand, the small snap ring is removed by pulling the holes apart. My cheapo $7 snap ring pliers with red handles from amazon allow you to reverse the direction that the jaws move when you squeeze the handles together--you just remove the jaws and mount them on the posts on the opposite side of the pliers.

4. I didn't think the tape was sufficient to protect the rod, so in addition to the tape I wrapped some paper towels around the rod, then folded over the top of the paper towels and taped it down. That created a hood I could slide on and off the rod.

5. The brass rods did not fall out when I slid the inner post out of the outer post like in the service video. In fact, they were quite difficult to get out. I held some wadded up paper towels in the palm of my hand for cushioning, then I whacked the outer post against my hand to encourage the brass rods to fall out of their slots. I would suggest stuffing a paper towel in the opening at the top of the outer post, so that the rods don't fly out that end when you whack the post against your hand.

6. I couldn't tell one side of a snap ring from the other--despite looking at them under a magnifying glass. Both snap rings looked perfectly symmetrical to me. If you want to install the snap rings exactly the way they were, carefully place the snap rings down on your work bench in the same orientation they were in when you removed them.

7. Reassembling the white plastic ring and the large silver plate/washer was a little fiddly. I couldn't fit my fingers down into the post, so I used Q-tips to press in the white ring, and then I pressed the white ring all the way down with the silver plate.

8. I didn't use loctite on the threads at the end of the rod as shown in the service video. There was no evidence of any loctite that had been previously applied, and because my 7mm wrench doesn't fit all the way onto the wrench flats, I didn't want to make it harder to unscrew the black end piece the next time I service my post.

All the internal pieces looked like they were in excellent condition, however I like to have spare parts on hand before disassembling, but I couldn't find the service kits available anywhere.

Servicing my Revive was easier than servicing my old KS Lev (external). I like how you insert the brass rods into the slots _after_ you slide the inner post into the outer post. With my KS Lev, I had to hold the brass rods in their slots on the inner post while trying to slide the inner post into the outer post, which inevitably caused the brass rods to get knocked out of their slots. If I remember correctly, my KS Lev had three brass rods, and the Revive has six, so the Revive should resist twisting better than the KS Lev. My KS Lev had about 1mm of side to side play, which wasn't noticeable on the bike. I noticed that my brass rods had no markings on them contrary to what is shown in the animated video.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

happyriding said:


> I like how you insert the brass rods into the slots _after_ you slide the inner post into the outer post. With my KS Lev, I had to balance the brass rods on the inner post, then try to slide the inner post into the outer post, which inevitably caused the brass rods to get knocked out of their slots in the inner post.


This sounds so much easier, Those brass keys on a 9.8 rebuild almost drove me crazy!

Thanks for the tips


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## Krigloch (Aug 9, 2011)

Holy crap, just read this whole thread!
Totally saving up for one of these!

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## Kirkerik (Apr 21, 2016)

monts said:


> thanks, that's what we've been doing, small taps... made some progress today... hopefully soon. this is stressful


If you have'nt freed it yet, prob should break the bike down. Make it much easier.

Have you soaked it w penetrating oil from the BB side w frame upside down? It can take a long time to get oil where you want it. Gentle heat such as w heat gun, or if you are CAREFUL enough and warm SLOWLY a torch w a bush/brush flame setting.

The problem w tapping it w a hammer is you're driving it deeper in to the frame thereby potentially increasing the hold the frame has on the seat tube! I'd only do that as a last resort. Can you borrow or rent a slide hammer? A slide hammer pulls w each strike. You can prob make one out of some iron pipe and fittings and a way to attach to post perhaps w cable.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

Kirkerik said:


> If you have'nt freed it yet, prob should break the bike down. Make it much easier.
> 
> Have you soaked it w penetrating oil from the BB side w frame upside down? It can take a long time to get oil where you want it. Gentle heat such as w heat gun, or if you are CAREFUL enough and warm SLOWLY a torch w a bush/brush flame setting.
> 
> The problem w tapping it w a hammer is you're driving it deeper in to the frame thereby potentially increasing the hold the frame has on the seat tube! I'd only do that as a last resort. Can you borrow or rent a slide hammer? A slide hammer pulls w each strike. You can prob make one out of some iron pipe and fittings and a way to attach to post perhaps w cable.


Used heat and penetrating oil. i'm going to check in today again on it.

I looked at a slide hammer but not sure where the best spot would be to attach it, any ideas?


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

Kirkerik said:


> If you have'nt freed it yet, prob should break the bike down. Make it much easier.
> 
> Have you soaked it w penetrating oil from the BB side w frame upside down? It can take a long time to get oil where you want it. Gentle heat such as w heat gun, or if you are CAREFUL enough and warm SLOWLY a torch w a bush/brush flame setting.
> 
> *The problem w tapping it w a hammer is you're driving it deeper in to the frame thereby potentially increasing the hold the frame has on the seat tube! I'd only do that as a last resort.* Can you borrow or rent a slide hammer? A slide hammer pulls w each strike. You can prob make one out of some iron pipe and fittings and a way to attach to post perhaps w cable.


It won't matter. Once it can move at all, it will be able to move freely up or down.


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## Kirkerik (Apr 21, 2016)

monts said:


> Used heat and penetrating oil. i'm going to check in today again on it.
> 
> I looked at a slide hammer but not sure where the best spot would be to attach it, any ideas?


That's the hard part, isn't it. hmmm.
Def don't want to stress the internals of the revive.

If you can get some type of pipe clamp cushioned w a few layers of inner tube rubber (or maybe an old seatpost clamp) on the larger part of the dropper just before the collar and then girth hitch a couple loops (one each side to balance load) of cable below the clamp so it does not slide up and off the dropper post. A secure connection and straight pull is essential.


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## Kirkerik (Apr 21, 2016)

davec113 said:


> It won't matter. Once it can move at all, it will be able to move freely up or down.


Yeah, prob right.

Keep soaking it for sure.
Do you have a gorilla for a friend that can stand on the frame and simply yank it out? Lol


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

There might have been a small squeek from the post bottoming in the frame too. The perfect position for the post (for me) is right where it bottoms, but obviously I don't want the post to wear a hole through the frame so giving it a mm or 2 is probably a good idea, with a mark on the seatpost to make sure it doesn't get pushed all the way down as you ride. 

Anyways, went for a ride yesterday with a completely non-squeeky bike and it was nice.


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

I've got some Maxima 5 Fork Oil left over from servicing my KS Lev, and I wondered whether I could use it to do a full service on my Revive--when the time comes. So I did some research.

1. 1 cSt = 1 mm2/s

2. If you click on the big black image in sacki's post, your browser will download a pdf file that gives the specs of the stock Revive oil:


```
Viscosity index                       method=ASTM D2270     161
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40 C, mm2/s     method=ASTM D445      15.8
```
3. Maxima's reported specs:









So to compare:

```
Revive Oil     Maxima 5 Fork Oil 
                   ---------------------------------
cSt                    15.8                15.9 
Viscosity Index        161                 201
```
That looks pretty close. But here is some independent data on Maxima 5:









That info is credited to Peter Verdone Designs, but I couldn't find it on his site. For Maxima Fork Oil 5wt, it says:

```
Independent 
                                   Maxima 5 specs
                                   --------------              
Recalculated Viscosity Index            98  
(but it says Maxima reported 150)
```
It seems like the Maxima 5 would work--but maybe the VI is a little low? From the Peter Verdone Designs info:



> The other interesting number is the Viscosity Index (VI), which is how stable the viscosity is over a wide temperature range. Bigger numbers are better.


I wonder if a dropper ever gets very hot?


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## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

Has anyone had any issues with the remote lever getting stuck? 

I rode yesterday in 20*F cold. Was doing some maintenance on the bike today in my basement and I cannot depress the lever - it gives a little bit but very stiff, and cannot depress enough to release the seatpost to drop.

Is this somehow related to riding in cold?

What should I do? Will it return to normal when I’m back in the cold?

Thanks


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

That has just been addressed just on the last page of this thread:
http://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-1033134-5.html#post13477733


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## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

sacki said:


> That has just been addressed just on the last page of this thread:
> http://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-1033134-5.html#post13477733


Awesome thanks!


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## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

Yea. Use the Revive feature to open it up. Next time drop the post a little before storing.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

jm2e said:


> Yea. Use the Revive feature to open it up. Next time drop the post a little before storing.


Do this


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## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

Has anyone got an issue with the anodizing on the seat post itself (the bit that goes into the seat tube)

Mine is absolutely full of loads of missing paint presumable from my back light being attached...its only a rubber band and its totally solid so it doesnt move at all....obviously grit and mud get in there and cause this...but ive had about 10 dropper posts and not one has ever rubbed off the anodizing before...looks a right mess its only 4 weeks old...just rubbed it off straight down to the metal

Any one elses doing this? Its literally the only thing i can fault but it hasnt had a very good long lasting finish on it


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

Didzy2009 said:


> Has anyone got an issue with the anodizing on the seat post itself (the bit that goes into the seat tube)
> 
> Mine is absolutely full of loads of missing paint presumable from my back light being attached...its only a rubber band and its totally solid so it doesnt move at all....obviously grit and mud get in there and cause this...but ive had about 10 dropper posts and not one has ever rubbed off the anodizing before...looks a right mess its only 4 weeks old...just rubbed it off straight down to the metal
> 
> Any one elses doing this? Its literally the only thing i can fault but it hasnt had a very good long lasting finish on it


I don't know if my problem had anything to do with the anodizing or not, but there was seriously nasty stuff on my post when I finally got it unstuck from my frame. I had to get a new lower tube unit. Fortunately it's an easy switch.


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## prosto_mtb (Jan 7, 2017)

Didzy2009 said:


> Has anyone got an issue with the anodizing on the seat post itself (the bit that goes into the seat tube)
> 
> Mine is absolutely full of loads of missing paint presumable from my back light being attached...its only a rubber band and its totally solid so it doesnt move at all....obviously grit and mud get in there and cause this...but ive had about 10 dropper posts and not one has ever rubbed off the anodizing before...looks a right mess its only 4 weeks old...just rubbed it off straight down to the metal
> 
> Any one elses doing this? Its literally the only thing i can fault but it hasnt had a very good long lasting finish on it


I believe bikeyoke should replace it for free by warranty.
No seatpost should develop this in weeks. Hell, even in years.
Even hated-by-everyone Reverb is great regarding its anodizing durability and it can last year or two without any 'lower leg' service.

This is quite concerning, since this seatpost is one of the priciest on the market. And if there are serious durability problems, it's not worth it at all. Better look for something mechanical (E13 for example).


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

This has nothing with "durability" and warranty, it's so called "electro corrosion" between 2 materials (aluminium/carbon, aluminium/aluminium) if moisture is trapped between seatpost and frame. I noticed that in any seatpost if was not properly treated, i.e. greased. To prevent from overtightening the seatclamp I prefer to use one size down seatpost diameter (i.e. 30.9 instead of 31.6mm) and U.S.E. shim 31.6/30.9. Shim has the collar so doesn't slip into the frame and can be greased on outer surface, while inner surface is grooved from machining and holds the seatube well even greased (much better than carbon frame). This solution works for me for years for standard and dropper posts, no problems with anodizing issues from electro corossion. The other advantage of a shim is the possibility to use the seatpost for all frames from 30.9mm up (when changing the frame).


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

PeterG said:


> This has nothing with "durability" and warranty, it's so called "electro corrosion" between 2 materials (aluminium/carbon, aluminium/aluminium) if moisture is trapped between seatpost and frame. I noticed that in any seatpost if was not properly treated, i.e. greased. To prevent from overtightening the seatclamp I prefer to use one size down seatpost diameter (i.e. 30.9 instead of 31.6mm) and U.S.E. shim 31.6/30.9. Shim has the collar so doesn't slip into the frame and can be greased on outer surface, while inner surface is grooved from machining and holds the seatube well even greased (much better than carbon frame). This solution works for me for years for standard and dropper posts, no problems with anodizing issues from electro corossion. The other advantage of a shim is the possibility to use the seatpost for all frames from 30.9mm up (when changing the frame).


It's not in any manual to follow this procedure, so how would the customer/user know?


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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

Jayem said:


> It's not in any manual to follow this procedure, so how would the customer/user know?


I suppose if one were to read up more on metals, one would learn of this?

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## monts (May 24, 2011)

PeterG said:


> This has nothing with "durability" and warranty, it's so called "electro corrosion" between 2 materials (aluminium/carbon, aluminium/aluminium) if moisture is trapped between seatpost and frame. I noticed that in any seatpost if was not properly treated, i.e. greased. To prevent from overtightening the seatclamp I prefer to use one size down seatpost diameter (i.e. 30.9 instead of 31.6mm) and U.S.E. shim 31.6/30.9. Shim has the collar so doesn't slip into the frame and can be greased on outer surface, while inner surface is grooved from machining and holds the seatube well even greased (much better than carbon frame). This solution works for me for years for standard and dropper posts, no problems with anodizing issues from electro corossion. The other advantage of a shim is the possibility to use the seatpost for all frames from 30.9mm up (when changing the frame).


There's no way we should have to use shims to avoid corrosion. Also, I've never had an issue with any other seat post corroding like this one did. Also, I used anti-seize. Grease seems to be working much better. Will only be using it from now on. I always used grease on my other posts, but the Revive manual states to use only Anti-Seize and not to use grease.


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## Kirkerik (Apr 21, 2016)

It is possible the formula for "antisieze" is quite different in Germany but how are we to know that.

When i read that (antisieze) i thought it was a weird suggestion. I have been using fluid film on my aluminum frame and have yet to have any problems.

With the dissimilar metals such as a steel alloy frame and the aluminum revive corrosion is more likely. A quality grease should work well here. I'd still check it occasionally to dry, clean and re-grease as necessary.

Your issue with your frame may have something to do w the particular alloy they use?? IDK

Glad to hear you got it out.
How did you end up doing it?
Is your frame alright?


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

Kirkerik said:


> It is possible the formula for "antisieze" is quite different in Germany but how are we to know that.
> 
> When i read that (antisieze) i thought it was a weird suggestion. I have been using fluid film on my aluminum frame and have yet to have any problems.
> 
> ...


Soaked in PB blaster, tried light force, little taps, etc. Soaked more, rode it, more of the same, nothing...finally decided to use the pipe wrench. There was no way it was coming out any other way, even with the pipe wrench I had to apply a twisting upward motion to get it out. Believe it or not, the post still works fine and the frame is fine, I honed the inside out and greased everything and it's good. I sent some pics to Canfield (steel Nimble 9 frame) and to Sacki. They were both helpful through the process so I won't post the pics here, but there was some seriously nasty junk on that post when I got it out.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Kirkerik said:


> It is possible the formula for "antisieze" is quite different in Germany but how are we to know that.
> 
> When i read that (antisieze) i thought it was a weird suggestion. I have been using fluid film on my aluminum frame and have yet to have any problems.
> 
> ...


There are different types of Anti-Seize available everywhere. Thought auto supply stores typically only carry one. Usually the aluminum variety. I bought a big jar of the copper type through amazon after seeing instructions (I forget for what) that specifically stated not to use the aluminum kind.

That said, you would think that if a manufacturer called for a specific type, they would specify it in their manual.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

Didzy2009 said:


> Has anyone got an issue with the anodizing on the seat post itself (the bit that goes into the seat tube)


I just got a Revive in yesterday, first one I have had my hands on. I think it is a brilliant design and I look forward to using it. But it does seem that if it has a weakness, it is in the finish. Just from a quick test fit, basically sliding the post in and out of a carbon seat tube a couple of times, a little twisting for alignment and lightly clamping, there is some visible scratching in the anodization. It is minor and won't be an issue when the post is installed, but it still shouldn't be there. I have had other anodized posts in and out of the same frame many times with no visible marks at all. Whatever anodization process Bike Yoke is using, it ain't the best. Surprising for a post that seems to be hands down the best available in just about every significant category. But the bottom line for me will be reliability and performance and I still have very high expectations for this post.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

From my experience the anodisation is more durable the more "knurled" the surface is (typical example is Thomson Elite). The more polished the surface is, the worse is the situation. Maybe it's due to scratches are not so visible on knurled surface. I don't have Revive yet to judge but planning to order one before season starts.


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## gobbledegoo (Jul 23, 2013)

Hey sacki, I just wanted to say that I've been in the market for a new dropper over the last couple weeks, and just as I thought I had settled on a Fox Transfer, I discovered the BikeYoke Revive and I just bought it from Backcountry. And I have to tell you that one of the reasons that I bought it was that I found this thread and I'm impressed with the way you have been answering people's questions promptly and thoroughly. That goes a long way.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

PeterG said:


> From my experience the anodisation is more durable the more "knurled" the surface is (typical example is Thomson Elite). The more polished the surface is, the worse is the situation. Maybe it's due to scratches are not so visible on knurled surface. I don't have Revive yet to judge but planning to order one before season starts.


The surface I noticed the scratches on is the textured surface similar to a Thomson or 9Point8 or many other posts, basically fine grooves in the machined surface. The scratches are small but there are shiny spots visible. Still, I wouldn't let this deter you, I would buy this post over anything else on the market if it were just coated in Sharpy ink. Dropper posts are probably the single most troublesome component of current bikes and I will take superior design over cosmetics any day. And actually this is a very good looking post, I don't care if there are some scratches hidden in the seat tube, I typically don't put anything on the small exposed lower section of a dropper anyway and if I do I will be careful. The one big caveat would be if the stanchion surface wears excessively, that could become both a significant cosmetic and performance issue in a hurry. Time will tell, and they have a 2 year warranty.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

gobbledegoo said:


> Hey sacki, I just wanted to say that I've been in the market for a new dropper over the last couple weeks, and just as I thought I had settled on a Fox Transfer, I discovered the BikeYoke Revive and I just bought it from Backcountry. And I have to tell you that one of the reasons that I bought it was that I found this thread and I'm impressed with the way you have been answering people's questions promptly and thoroughly. That goes a long way.


Thank you so much for your kind words! It is always nice to hear, when people actually appreciate and value the support we´re trying to give!


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

prosto_mtb said:


> I believe bikeyoke should replace it for free by warranty.
> No seatpost should develop this in weeks. Hell, even in years.
> Even hated-by-everyone Reverb is great regarding its anodizing durability and it can last year or two without any 'lower leg' service.
> 
> This is quite concerning, since this seatpost is one of the priciest on the market. And if there are serious durability problems, it's not worth it at all. Better look for something mechanical (E13 for example).


I´d like to say a few words about this topic:

I wonder, how you come to the conclusion, we SHOULD replace this post/tube under warranty. Neither have you seen the actual look of the post, nor do you have any information besided the ones from the customer. With all due respect, this is not something you can decide by hearsay without exactly knowing, what happend to the post. Maybe the user can post a picture, so we can see, what he is talking about.
I have worked at Bionicon Bicycles for the past 7 years, and I have installed, serviced and worked on hundreds of bikes with dropper posts from Rock Shox over KS, to Fox, Race Face, Forca, etc. 
There were posts of each munufacturer, that looked like new after years, but there were also posts, that looked extremely worn just after a few months of use. In more than 99% of the cases, it depends on how you treat your bike and post. In the other cases, it might be weirdly reacting materials and or actual badly anodized parts (very unlikely).

I´d like to explain a little bit about our anodization finish:

1. Our seatpost experiences the same anodization treatment as many other posts from other manufactuers, performed by the same, very renowned anodization factory. I am not saying, that there can´t be a mistake in the ano-finish of some posts - for sure this can happen. However, we can say, that we have less than 10 reported cases (and this is less than 0,1% of all sold REVIVES as of now), where customers complained about the finish. Some of them used the post inside a steel frame, some of them attached something to the post, some used friction paste. One major difference between our post and some others is the our machining finish, while most other do have a shotpeened finish. This can make a difference, since our post in theory contacts on a smaller area. We will do some research and see, if shotpeened finish helps to reduce the rub. Then we´d have to sacrifice our perfect machining finish.

2. Friction paste (as well as anti-seize powder or paste) can cause the anodization to fade, as the particles can be very hard and micro-movements inside the tube will work basically like sandpaper. There are many different kinds of friction paste, and I can not rule out, that some of them are more aggressive than others to ano-finish.
In the manual we do recommend to use friction paste, that is correct. We mention this, because we have found that it (unfortunately not rarely) happens to be, that seattubes are not properly reamsed and bigger than they should be. I have had a customer complaining, that he could not properly clamp his post inside the frame. It turned out, that the seattube was 31.4~31.5 instead of 30.9. This is terribly off of any tolerances. The frame make was an expensive one and not direct sales brand by the way.
Personally I never used friction paste on my personla bikes - I always use grease, since this will help keep water and dirt away from the "gap" between post and seattube. But if we tell the customer, to use grease, then maybe a lot of posts will be slipping. But I can also not rule out, that some grease compounds will also attack the surface. Chemical reactions between steel and aluminum, carbon and aluminum, carbon and grease, water and steel, ... can not be foreseen, so it is just impossible to give a 100% recommendation of what to use.
I will try to find some proper words and I think will updated the manual accordingly.
If you can clamp your post properly inside your frame with heavy grease, while making sure, that the grease is not aggressive to any of the components, then grease should always be the best solution to apply on your post. This I am saying from personal experience, but I am not saying, that this is 100% correct or applies for every single combination possible.

3. The upper tube and lower tube have totally different surface finishes/treatments:
Upper tube is hard anodized and lower tube is just anodized. Hard ano-layers are much thicker and harder than just "normally" anodized surfaces.

4. Anything that is attached to an anodized surface (no matter if rubber or not) will be able to collect dirt and mud and water and this willl eventually get between the two and rub off material = anodisation layer.

5. Steel frames do cause corrosion, especially, if the inside of the frame is humid/moist or wet. Anodized tubes (no matter if hard anodized or anodized) are pretty resistant to water and corrosion, but when corroding steel frames get in touch with aluminum seatposts, they can add oxidation layers to the post or attack the anodization. This does not come from the post, but from the steel frame.

I hope I did not forget anything (or too much), but please feel free to ask, if you have more questions - also about other issues.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

I'm glad to hear, that Sacki's experience with greasing the seatposts meets exactly my experience. I would just add another 2 cents: if someting must be attached to the seatpost (rear light or so), it's always good to put clear 3M helicopter tape (or similar) underneath to prevent rubbing the anogization (i.e. simply wrap around the seatpost with piece of clear tape ...).


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## Steve Javorsky (Jul 22, 2014)

I see that some people have had this dropper for some time, sounds like this is the dropper to get. What can anyone say after having it for over 6 months or more ? I have had very bad luck with droppers and I need to buy a new one very soon. I have had a reverb (longest lasting and favorite of the ones I have) easton haven (JUNK) e13 TRS (to big 150mm stock on my capra and only 3 position not very good.

If this is the post to get I have no issues putting down the money... but I don't want to get one and have issues in 3 months. 

I have read a lot of the posts on here, most seem great....

Thanks


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Steve Javorsky said:


> I see that some people have had this dropper for some time, sounds like this is the dropper to get. What can anyone say after having it for over 6 months or more ? I have had very bad luck with droppers and I need to buy a new one very soon. I have had a reverb (longest lasting and favorite of the ones I have) easton haven (JUNK) e13 TRS (to big 150mm stock on my capra and only 3 position not very good.
> 
> If this is the post to get I have no issues putting down the money... but I don't want to get one and have issues in 3 months.
> 
> ...


I've had mine since July 2017, have not had any issues or needed to service yet. Conditions used: 1-2 rides per week, mild climate (NorCal). What I like are its smooth and rapid operation, lack of need for service, and no side to side slop. If I store it with the seat down (like on a car rack with other bikes), the first extension will be slower than normal, but return to normal after that.

I use it with the Wolf Tooth lever, which I feel is slightly smoother and allows for an easier install, but I'm using the Triggy remote with a DeHy modded Reverb on my other bike. The Triggy isn't bad - the WT ReMote is simply the best lever on the market.

I've previously used (and strongly disliked) Fox DOSS, KS Lev DX, and RS Reverb. I've also played with a friend's Transfer. All of those were inferior in some combination of smoothness or speed of travel, or side to side slop.


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

> We will do some research and see, if shotpeened finish helps to reduce the rub. Then we´d have to sacrifice our perfect machining finish.


A data point: I was watching curling on TV at the olympics, and after they smoothed the ice they showed a guy spraying water droplets on the ice to create a pebbled surface. They said it made the heavy stones slide better.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Steve Javorsky said:


> (...)
> 
> If this is the post to get I have no issues putting down the money... but I don't want to get one and have issues in 3 months.
> 
> ...


I stopped keeping track at the 1500Km mark, I have my Revive since May last year and rode everything from moondust to 20cm deep mud. And it has been flawless.
I did a lower service at the 1000Km mark if I'm not mistaken, and that's it.
I make the effort to clean the stanchion after each ride as suggested, even more when I rode in the mud.

My personal experience is that the Revive is everything that they advertise, the simpler design, the smooth action, the easy of service, the Revive function and the reliability.

Time will tell if it keeps that way.


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## Kirkerik (Apr 21, 2016)

I've been riding mine for at least five months. It's performance has been great through mud or snow.

I had to adjust the cable once but that's my own fault for cutting it a bit too short. Still working smooth and swift.


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## Steve Javorsky (Jul 22, 2014)

Thanks guys, I have one on the way. It will be going on my 2017 Capra CF. The Capra in Large comes with 150 mm Post and it is to tall for me. Hope this post is as good as everything that has been said..... Also, how much air pressure ? And does it lose air ever ?
Super excited to have a good post.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

The manual states 260psi max, but I saw somewhere that they come with less than that from factory, think it's around 200psi, but I'm not sure on that value. And as far as I can tell mine doesn't lose air.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

After just a tiny bit of reading in this thread...... this is the dropper I'm getting.
User serviceability is a major plus. Also, the design seems good.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

happyriding said:


> A data point: I was watching curling on TV at the olympics, and after they smoothed the ice they showed a guy spraying water droplets on the ice to create a pebbled surface. They said it made the heavy stones slide better.


My layman's understanding/guess of that curling "trick" is that the raised surface created by the "pebbling" simply reduces the contact area between the ice and the stone, thereby lowering friction. This is the same effect as machining.

The low points in either a machined or shot peened surface would be less subject to wear than the high points.

I would be surprised if a shot-peened surface had more low area than the current machined surface of a revive lower assembly. But truthfully I'm making a wild guess here.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

sacki said:


> I´d like to explain a little bit about our anodization finish:
> 
> 1. Our seatpost experiences the same anodization treatment as many other posts from other manufactuers, performed by the same, very renowned anodization factory. I am not saying, that there can´t be a mistake in the ano-finish of some posts - for sure this can happen. However, we can say, that we have less than 10 reported cases (and this is less than 0,1% of all sold REVIVES as of now), where customers complained about the finish. Some of them used the post inside a steel frame, some of them attached something to the post, some used friction paste. One major difference between our post and some others is the our machining finish, while most other do have a shotpeened finish. This can make a difference, since our post in theory contacts on a smaller area. We will do some research and see, if shotpeened finish helps to reduce the rub. Then we´d have to sacrifice our perfect machining finish.
> ...
> ...


I am glad to hear this, and thank you for being so willing to address these kinds of issues with detailed and informative replies. Maybe the scratches in the lower post I observed are the result of a sharper peak in the machined surface than the other posts I have, maybe mine got an underspec treatment, either way it is not much of a concern especially after reading your post. The hard anodization of the stanchion versus the regular treatment to the lower is a pragmatic compromise and works for me. Especially since your post allows me to run a 160mm while most of your competition could only fit a 125mm. And the lower will be as deep as it can go, so there will never be a scratched section from having had the post too deep.

Congrats on a unique and clever design, I have high expectations and look forward to putting a lot of miles on it.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

VonFalkenhausen said:


> I am glad to hear this, and thank you for being so willing to address these kinds of issues with detailed and informative replies. Maybe the scratches in the lower post I observed are the result of a sharper peak in the machined surface than the other posts I have, maybe mine got an underspec treatment, either way it is not much of a concern especially after reading your post. The hard anodization of the stanchion versus the regular treatment to the lower is a pragmatic compromise and works for me. Especially since your post allows me to run a 160mm while most of your competition could only fit a 125mm. And the lower will be as deep as it can go, so there will never be a scratched section from having had the post too deep.
> 
> Congrats on a unique and clever design, I have high expectations and look forward to putting a lot of miles on it.


I appreciate wanting a flawless finish when new, but realistically as you ride your post over time it will develop cosmetic marks from being clamped in the seat tube, just like any other post. No big worry!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## hookem34 (Jun 2, 2016)

Just installed a 160mm Revive and noticed that it wants to stop short of full extension by about 5 mm each time I raise it. I have reset it, dropper cable tension is good and seat collar it torqued to 4nm. 

Any suggestions to get it to full extension? Haven't ridden the bike yet due to weather, so maybe it just needs to break in a bit?


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

hookem34 said:


> Just installed a 160mm Revive and noticed that it wants to stop short of full extension by about 5 mm each time I raise it. I have reset it, dropper cable tension is good and seat collar it torqued to 4nm.
> 
> Any suggestions to get it to full extension? Haven't ridden the bike yet due to weather, so maybe it just needs to break in a bit?


how much air is in it ? pump it up to max rated pressure in the manual


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## hookem34 (Jun 2, 2016)

Adding air fixed the problem. Was at 175 psi out of the box. Pumped it up to 250 and works perfect.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

DriverB said:


> I appreciate wanting a flawless finish when new, but realistically as you ride your post over time it will develop cosmetic marks from being clamped in the seat tube, just like any other post. No big worry!


Yeah, I get that but this started with someone asking about the finish on the post. I have observed that this post for some reason seems more susceptible than I expected to small scratches developing in the anodization of the lower post. This is in direct comparison to other similar posts, in the same frame, from test fitting. I am not overly concerned about it as I mentioned in the previous posts, but it did surprise me.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Just ordered revive 31.6 160mm post. Currently on wait list from Jenson. Hopefully it doesnt take 2 months.


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## Steve Javorsky (Jul 22, 2014)

stumpynerd said:


> Just ordered revive 31.6 160mm post. Currently on wait list from Jenson. Hopefully it doesnt take 2 months.


Same price...in stock and free 2 day shipping at

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/...=U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM6cmV2aXZlOjE6MTpyZXZpdmU=


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## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

Anyone have issue with saddle dropping 1mm-3mm? I haven't had ride on my new bike and new revive yet due to traveling and weather. So I've been just upgrading and adding new parts to bike. This happened when I got it but didn't think much of it since I was going to revive it and figured it will fix it.

I revived it yesterday and today I had to add spacers to Topaz so to set sag again, I put weight on saddle to equalize to set sag. After that I pressed on lever and I hear faint clunk. Did it couple of times more. It doesn't seem to happen if you don't put weight on it then push lever but if I compress shock couple of time then lay my hand gently on saddle and push lever, I feel saddle come up 1mm-3mm.

Anyone experience this? Like I have mentioned, I haven't even taken this out to ride yet.


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## tmc1171 (Nov 10, 2010)

Has anyone else had issues threading on the air tool adapter piece?
I could not get mine on for the life of me, even after removing all the small reset parts.
Was able to barely get my shock pump threaded on after removing all the reset parts, but what a pain in the ass.

Other than that, great dropper post!!


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

tmc1171 said:


> Has anyone else had issues threading on the air tool adapter piece?
> I could not get mine on for the life of me, even after removing all the small reset parts.
> Was able to barely get my shock pump threaded on after removing all the reset parts, but what a pain in the ass.
> 
> ...


nope. mine went on fine.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

tmc1171 said:


> Has anyone else had issues threading on the air tool adapter piece?
> I could not get mine on for the life of me, even after removing all the small reset parts.
> Was able to barely get my shock pump threaded on after removing all the reset parts, but what a pain in the ass.
> 
> ...


What exactly was the problem with the adapter not fitting? I can hardly imagine, that a pump would fit, but the adapter would not even screw on. The adapter should easily fit without having to take off the reset-parts. Did you check, if the thread of the adapter is OK? Mayve there is a mistake in the machining of the adapter thread? Never heard of this before, but I don´t want to rule that out.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Website has been updated and now contains service and troubleshooting documents, as well as links to service videos and manuals.
You can find all those information on every REVIVE product page under "maintenance" and "documents".
Here is a quick link to check it out:
https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/seatpost-revive-160-30-9.html

I am also planning to open a new thread here on MTBR forums, following the model of my original thread on German IBC forum:
https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/bikeyoke-revive-daten-fakten-hilfe-tipps-und-tricks.864069/

The idea is to open a dedicated thread for REVIVE, where my first post will serve as a collection of all important and helpful information. The first post will be updated and information will be added constantly. So you don´t have to search throughout the whole thread, when looking for some information, as basically everything will be concentrated and collected on the first page.
Not sure, if that works, because I haven´t used a lot of attachements and pictures and linked videos here, and don´t know, if it is as simple to use, as in the German forum, but if it is not too complicated, I´d like to go for it.
What do you think?


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

sacki said:


> Website has been updated and now contains service and troubleshooting documents, as well as links to service videos and manuals.
> You can find all those information on every REVIVE product page under "maintenance" and "documents".
> Here is a quick link to check it out:
> https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/seatpost-revive-160-30-9.html
> ...


I think it's a great idea as these marathon threads can be a pain to parse through. Hyperlinks to docs and videos work just as well as embedding them.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

sacki said:


> ...I am also planning to open a new thread here on MTBR forums, following the model of my original thread on German IBC forum:
> https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/bikeyoke-revive-daten-fakten-hilfe-tipps-und-tricks.864069/
> The idea is to open a dedicated thread for REVIVE, where my first post will serve as a collection of all important and helpful information. The first post will be updated and information will be added constantly. So you don´t have to search throughout the whole thread, when looking for some information, as basically everything will be concentrated and collected on the first page.
> Not sure, if that works, because I haven´t used a lot of attachements and pictures and linked videos here, and don´t know, if it is as simple to use, as in the German forum, but if it is not too complicated, I´d like to go for it.
> What do you think?


Sacki, that's a good idea, surely. Such thread model is also possible in this forum too, e.g. http://forums.mtbr.com/components/ks-lev-diy-cartridge-rebuild-899659.html, so that should work OK.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Any voucher, pls )


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Whatcha mean?


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

I'm going to order https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/product_info.php?info=p20x162_revive-160---30-9.html&no_boost=1 and some small parts, and I was just wondering if anyone here can share some voucher (coupon code)

)))


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

By the way, what is - Flat Rate Best way shipping method?


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Unfortunately there are no vouchers available. Even if there were, I think, it wouldn´t be a very smart move from me to post it here in a forum, so that everyone could see, right? (I am owner of BikeYoke, not a customer, just for the notice) ;-)

I am usually shipping 2-3 times a week, but if I get an order with "best way", I´ll try to bring it to post office in person the same day, and include an "air priority" label. This is, however, no guarantee, that the actual shipping time is shorter, than when being shipped the regular way. But it is usually dispatched quicker.
Shipping times to the US can vary quite a bit. I have had parcels arrived within 4-5 days and some can even take up to 2 weeks and in rare cases even longer. To be honest, I don´t really think, this depends on the shipping way, but rather on customs and plane schedules. I am not 100% sure, this is just what I assume.


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## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Anyone know about a setback option for the Revive? Ideally a swappable head or something like that?


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## bogeydog (Apr 13, 2015)

svinyard said:


> Anyone know about a setback option for the Revive? Ideally a swappable head or something like that?


Sacki's answer to me on this was simply......No

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## hookem34 (Jun 2, 2016)

Curious to know how fast everyone's post extend to full height. Mine seems slower than I would like and I have 260 psi pumped in and have had the lower foam ring checked by the LBS. it's action is much slower than a Fox Transfer and it kind of annoys me.

Seems like it takes roughly 1.5 seconds (estimating) to hit full extension when completely slammed (160mm post).

I am also looking for a replacement shock pump adapter. Mine has gone missing and I did not see them available for purchase on the website.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

That seems way too slow. Mine is much faster than a Transfer.

Have you checked that your seat collar isn't overtightened?


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

hookem34 said:


> Curious to know how fast everyone's post extend to full height. Mine seems slower than I would like and I have 260 psi pumped in and have had the lower foam ring checked by the LBS. it's action is much slower than a Fox Transfer and it kind of annoys me.
> 
> Seems like it takes roughly 1.5 seconds (estimating) to hit full extension when completely slammed (160mm post).
> 
> I am also looking for a replacement shock pump adapter. Mine has gone missing and I did not see them available for purchase on the website.


drop seat, loosen seat post clamp a lot... how fast does it return now ?


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## hookem34 (Jun 2, 2016)

I have. Its completely slammed into the seat tube and tightened to 4nm. even when i remove the seat collar it is still slow.


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## akantus178 (Mar 20, 2018)

Mine is also not too fast, but coming from specialized command post everything is slow.. anyway, when pumped with max recommended pressure (260?) it's not too bad, maybe 1s for 185mm. One thing that I have noticed, is that the post is extending slower when dirty or cold, so clean&lube often as with your fork or shock.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

hookem34 said:


> I have. Its completely slammed into the seat tube and tightened to 4nm. even when i remove the seat collar it is still slow.


Did you check you cable tension?
If your cable is too loose your return speed will be slower.


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## hookem34 (Jun 2, 2016)

I have. If it’s any tighter it starts raising itself.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

akantus178 said:


> One thing that I have noticed, is that the post is extending slower when dirty or cold, so clean&lube often as with your fork or shock.


I noticed that too, mostly when cold.
But only on the first actuation after some time without lowering or rising the seatpost, if I drop or rise the post in a short interval is super fast.
So my guess is that it's stiction and/or the grease doesn't work well in low temps.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

hookem34 said:


> I have. If it's any tighter it starts raising itself.


I like to have that much cable tension too .
Did you check your air pressure like akantus178 mentioned?
Max suggested pressure is 260PSI, but I think they come from factory with lower pressure.


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

hookem34 said:


> I have. If it's any tighter it starts raising itself.


Are you sure you have the correct amount of cable in the bottom of the post?
Does it return slow if you remove the post from the bike and pull the bottom post assembly by hand all the way?


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## gtsum2 (Jun 28, 2017)

Are these as maintenance free (easy to maintaining anyways) as they say? I have a RF turbine and after every ride it gets sticky coming up...have to put some butter on the seal and always make sure to wipe down, etc. had a cheap ks on another bike and never had an issue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

I installed the dropper yesterday. A couple of notes:
- I think it's better to trim the cable wire 1.3 - 1.5mm longer that 17mm recommended by BikeYoke, i.e. 18.3 - 18.5mm and let those 1.3 - 1.5mm extends from the barrel. Still no problem to fit the barrel into the eyelet while it prevents the end of the wire from fraying, if the wire is removed from barrel or the barrel is moving along the wire for accurate setting.
- to Sacki: if possible, I would appreciate inner recess in hexagonal revive hole so the lever O-ring "clicks" inside the recess and holds the lever much better than the friction used in actual solution (which seems to me insufficient, but not tested in real life, so I could be wrong in estimation).


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## gasmanxj (Sep 29, 2014)

PeterG said:


> to Sacki: if possible, I would appreciate inner recess in hexagonal revive hole so the lever O-ring "clicks" inside the recess and holds the lever much better than the friction used in actual solution (which seems to me insufficient, but not tested in real life, so I could be wrong in estimation).


Thought the same thing at first but it's a non issue. I have Revives on two different bikes that see plenty of rocky chunk and levers stay put. 6 months or so since I got the levers.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> Unfortunately


Just paid by PayPal.
Operations came as "Clothing and shoes" not "Sport Goods" (I'm getting cash back for Sport Goods)

((


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

gasmanxj said:


> Thought the same thing at first but it's a non issue. I have Revives on two different bikes that see plenty of rocky chunk and levers stay put. 6 months or so since I got the levers.


it's going nowhere by itself


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I have not had to revive my post since installing it last July and see no use having a lever on mine. I had to lower the post with the bike upside down to get it to sag so I could test reviving it.


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## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

A phrase often used at work, you're better off looking at it, than looking for it.


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## techFiend (Aug 12, 2005)

*also happens in warm weather*



sacki said:


> This is very likely due to a temperature difference between riding and storing the post.
> If you ride and use the post in cold weather the oil inside the post will shrink in volume, as almost every material does. So when you go back with your post into the warm house to store the bike, the oil will want to re-extend, because it warms up. Since there is no air inside the inner chamber and the tube is retty stiff, the oil can not extend and so it will go under very high pressure. This pressure needs to be overcome - and it will be very hard to overcome with the remote or by the thumb on the remote. The easiest way to break it loose is just to use a 4mm Allen key and do a quick reset. The key will also be harder to turn, but way easier than the remote.
> This is actually a normal behaviour and can also be seen on other droppers, such as KS LEV. If a post is bled properly and the inner chamber does not contain any air, the extended oil will cause this high pressure inside.


Just FYI.. I live in SoCal. Went for a ride in the evening, and then left bike in garage after, with post fully extended. Temperature in the garage rose over the next day due to weather, as well as a parked car. Triggy was very stiff after that, similar to what is described above.

Very nice dropper post though. Good work!


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

Travis Bickle said:


> I have not had to revive my post since installing it last July and see no use having a lever on mine. I had to lower the post with the bike upside down to get it to sag so I could test reviving it.


After 8 months of 3-days/week use I finally had to revive my Revive after I took a small spill (a damn piece of . After the spill I eventually noticed that the post was sticking a bit, it did not come back up with the nicely satisfying "clunk".

It took a blink to revive it using my multi-tool allen key :thumbsup: ... and indeed I see no much use to have the nice lever installed unless you bike in Australia (that is anywhere in the southern hemisphere), do loops, or fall a lot!


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

I have a few rides on my revive. By far the smoothest post Ive ever used. I love the light action of the cable for dropping it. 

Long term review coming up end of season. 

So far the post just works, no play, easy to setup however the cable cutting directions left a little too much cable that I had to trim down which is minor. Better long than too short first go.


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## bigbangus (Oct 28, 2016)

Coming from a Fox Transfer 150, I'm a bit annoyed by how digital the 1x triggy lever is. The action is not as smooth when first initiating the drop. It's almost like you have to overcome a certain preload on the lever before it opens up and drops. So I'm really having to get used to that when using my dropper. It's not smooth, it's very abrupt. I find myself either not pressing hard enough or just pressing too hard and the seat just falling from under me. I've got it set to 250psi.

Aside from that lever feel, I'm 100% satisfied. Love the reset feature, seat post feels remarkably stiffer than my Transfer which goes to show how much those sag after 1 year of use.


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

I love this dropper post! Used Gravity Dropper (reliable but ugly), KS LEV, Thomson, Specialized Blacklight (decent!) and old Highball. The Thomson is pretty good, but the REVIVE is the best so far. I am about 6 months in, using about 3-4 days per week, close to 100 rides with no issues. Some 4-5 hour rides. A 5000 foot descent near Yosemite. Just waiting for Hole in the Ground to open for high altitude test.


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## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Is there a way to minorly adjust the travel? I'd like the 185mm but probably need to knock it down 10 to 15mm for it to be perfect. I know I could just go to the 160 but I'm curious is some adjustment hack is available.


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

Yes. You can adjust the travel on a BikeYoke Revive.

Revive! | Peter Verdone Designs


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## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

pvd said:


> Yes. You can adjust the travel on a BikeYoke Revive.
> 
> Revive! | Peter Verdone Designs


Interesting, how do you do it? How far can you reduce it? This isn't exactly advertised anywhere that I have seen. Only the OneUp and FallLine are the adjustable one iirc. Good news tho that it can be done!


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

You just make a spacer and put it inside the works. It's pretty simple.


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## theycallmeE (Aug 21, 2007)

bigbangus said:


> Coming from a Fox Transfer 150, I'm a bit annoyed by how digital the 1x triggy lever is. The action is not as smooth when first initiating the drop. It's almost like you have to overcome a certain preload on the lever before it opens up and drops. So I'm really having to get used to that when using my dropper. It's not smooth, it's very abrupt. I find myself either not pressing hard enough or just pressing too hard and the seat just falling from under me. I've got it set to 250psi.
> 
> Aside from that lever feel, I'm 100% satisfied. Love the reset feature, seat post feels remarkably stiffer than my Transfer which goes to show how much those sag after 1 year of use.


^This! With the excellent design and machining of the post, I'm a little disappointed with the janky feel of the triggy. I've decided to live with it since the post seems so good. Maybe it's a leverage thing and the Wolftooth would improve it. Anyone switch out the triggy for something that improves the feel and responsiveness of this action?


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

theycallmeE said:


> ^This! With the excellent design and machining of the post, I'm a little disappointed with the janky feel of the triggy. I've decided to live with it since the post seems so good. Maybe it's a leverage thing and the Wolftooth would improve it. Anyone switch out the triggy for something that improves the feel and responsiveness of this action?


I disagree, imo the triggy is pretty much perfect. Maybe a cable issue...


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## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

I think the comments/complaints over the Triggy lever are hilarious!!

Before I purchased a Revive, I used a 9.8 Fall Line with a WolfTooth Remote.
When I installed the Revive, I just kept the WolfTooth remote on and used it with the Revive.... all good.

The other day, the Wolftooth remote broke. So, I put the Triggy remote on. Works great. Excellent ergonomics and positioning. 
Is it a slightly different feel with pressing it? Sure. Slightly! 
Is the WolfTooth remote a bit softer? Sure.
Is there a big difference? NO!

I would advise you to just push your thumb .00002% harder... that's about the extent of the difference.

Cheers


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

CWnSWCO said:


> I think the comments/complaints over the Triggy lever are hilarious!!
> 
> Before I purchased a Revive, I used a 9.8 Fall Line with a WolfTooth Remote.
> When I installed the Revive, I just kept the WolfTooth remote on and used it with the Revive.... all good.
> ...


Yes, this. The WT is a bit bigger, so a bit more leverage. The Triggy is economical and compact, works great. No issues.


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## Kirkerik (Apr 21, 2016)

^^^ Me too! The triggy on the Revive has been great!


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

I use the WT with my Revive and a WT Light Action with my DeHy'd Reverb, after trying the Triggy. I strongly prefer the WT, but the new OneUp looks interesting because of the lever position.


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## justinnardella (Jun 23, 2016)

I believe I’ve previously posted on this forum about the stanchion anodization wearing away. I’ve received a warranty replacement aaand... same thing. The part of the stanchion facing the front of the bike has a small wear mark in it (you can see the aluminum of the post). It has definitely just started to develop and it hasn’t affected the post’s performance. It was much worse on the previous post and I only got it warrantied to be safe. Honestly not a big deal since it doesn’t seem to affect performance. I’m betting the cause is uneven downward pressure when dropping the post because of seat tube angle, causing internal rubbing of some type. 

Anyone else have this issue?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

We've been using the BikeYoke Revive for quite a while and haven't seen any abnormal wear like you mention. It may be a servicing/lubrication issue that you need to keep up on. I clean and lube droppers a couple times a year as this is very important for any brand you use.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

*Make sure barrel adj. and housing/cable are full tight @ install*



davec113 said:


> I disagree, imo the triggy is pretty much perfect. Maybe a cable issue...


This^^, well housing compresses a touch from new or "breaks in"...pull some slack out w/ barrel adj.

Edit* mine was named 2by iirc,


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## justinnardella (Jun 23, 2016)

pvd said:


> We've been using the BikeYoke Revive for quite a while and haven't seen any abnormal wear like you mention. It may be a servicing/lubrication issue that you need to keep up on. I clean and lube droppers a couple times a year as this is very important for any brand you use.


Thanks for the advice, but I am always on top of this. This replacement post has only about 3 months of use.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Could you please post the pictures?


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

I’m having an issue with my Bikeyoke Revive 31.6 x 435mm - 185mm.

It works perfectly most of the time but once or twice every few rides the remote level doesn’t spring back (the lever just flops around with no tension on it). It seems like perhaps the return spring mechanism at the post end isn’t working and so the post can't lock out. It can be pushed down and springs back up with no way to lock it at any position. 

If I push the post down a bunch of times and play with the remote lever I can eventually get it to return to normal and lock in place. 

It does seem to be happening more frequently and the post is also feeling less smooth in its action. I have replaced the inner cable 3 times, replaced the outer cable, and also replaced the entire remote lever. When I remove the post from the bike I can't see any issue with the cable/mechanism that could be causing it.

I could return to the place of purchase but thought I’d check with you guys first. I had a similar issue with the first post I had where it wouldn't lock, but that didn't seem to involve the remote in the same way. That was replaced under warranty.

Thanks


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

By your description I'm inclined to say that's the cable routing.
Is it possible that you have turns too sharps in the cable routing, normally at the BB area?


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

Aglo said:


> By your description I'm inclined to say that's the cable routing.
> Is it possible that too have turns good sharp in the cable routing, normally at the BB area?


You might be right as there is quite a hard corner in the cable housing down near the BB. Not sure if there's anything I can do about that however. I'll replace the housing again and be really careful with it.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

That's usually a cable routing issue, it's binding or loosening and there's probably extra length in there that needs to be pulled tight.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

After reading your post I noticed the gibberish in my post, sorry for that and kudos to you for have decipher it .

You could try to install some kind of metal sleeve over the housing at that area, preventing that way the housing from kinking.


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## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

You could also try running a gear cable through a piece of brake housing. The brake housing will be more flexible and designed for a larger diameter cable. A dropper post doesn't need the same precise cable movement as a shifter does so it should work just fine.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

pvd said:


> You just make a spacer and put it inside the works. It's pretty simple.


I think I am telling no news, when I say, that you will void your warranty, when you perform any modifications on your REVIVE. This mod may work, but neither did we test it, nor can we confirm, that it will not affect the function of the post on the long term.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

justinnardella said:


> I believe I've previously posted on this forum about the stanchion anodization wearing away. I've received a warranty replacement aaand... same thing. The part of the stanchion facing the front of the bike has a small wear mark in it (you can see the aluminum of the post). It has definitely just started to develop and it hasn't affected the post's performance. It was much worse on the previous post and I only got it warrantied to be safe. Honestly not a big deal since it doesn't seem to affect performance. I'm betting the cause is uneven downward pressure when dropping the post because of seat tube angle, causing internal rubbing of some type.
> 
> Anyone else have this issue?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It is really weird, that this happened with two different posts. Which frame are you using our REVIVE in?


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## bigbangus (Oct 28, 2016)

theycallmeE said:


> ^This! With the excellent design and machining of the post, I'm a little disappointed with the janky feel of the triggy.


Glad I'm not alone!



davec113 said:


> I disagree, imo the triggy is pretty much perfect. Maybe a cable issue...


It's not the lever or the cable I agree. It's that when seated, the post requires extra effort on the lever to engage. With no load on it however, the lever is smooth.

Try this: Actuate the lever when you're off the bike. You'll notice that it's very easy and the response is linear. Now apply load to the seat and do the same thing. You'll notice you have to overcome a significant threshold of force in the lever before the post will drop.

To me this is a design issue where the oil pressure from body weight in the tube is causing the valve to stick shut before it bleeds open. Maybe it's just the o-rings and they will give over time. Either way it's a noticeable flaw and should be addressed in QC or future revisions. Any other post I ever operated in the past including the Fox Transfer never had this issue.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Try to unload the saddle before actuating the lever. Easy solution .


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

@bigbangus:
Let me explain:
What you describe is neither a design issue, nor is it a noticeable "flaw". If you have a look at the internals of our dropper post, or at any other dropper post, including Reverb, Fox Transfer, or Kindshock LEV Integra, you will see the reason for this behaviour:
When pushing the remote, you will push a rod, which then opens a valve. The force, required to open the valve depends on the pressure inside the post hydraulic circuit and on the size of the cross-sectional-area of the valve, as well as on the leverage of you lever and actuator unit at the bottom of the post. The more pressure, the more force you need to open the valve. The bigger the cross-sectional area of the valve, the more force you need and so on... 
This purely physical fact applies to basically any post, that is hydraulically locked.

Now when you put your body weight on the post, you will increase the pressure in the inner (lock-out) chamber and so the valve has bigger preload that needs to be overcome.
This applies to the mentioned Fox Transfer, just as it applies to our post and others.
The reason why it is differently noticeable on different posts is the layout of the internals and the leverage ratio of the remote. 
Obviously, we have designed our remote for a short lever throw. If you check Kindshock or Fox remotes, you will see, that you have to push them much further to reach full speeed, which I personally don´t like. I want a crisp, yet perfectly modulateable speed, which we achieve with our remote. So engaging *one and the same post* with our remote and then with a Fox or KS lever, you will notice, that you will have shorter lever throw, but slightly more force needed with our Triggy. We personally prefer this actuation and that´s why we designed it that way.
Other than the obvious leverage thing, why we designed out interals the way we did, has has its very special reasons, but I will not mention in detail why we designed it exactly the way we did, and not the way Fox or Kindhshock or others. This is part of our experience and expertise.

That being said, it does not need to be addressed in QC. QC is there to make sure, parts are produced according to specification. Our post works exactly the way it is supposed to do. Not sure, what you want to tell us with this.

In the manual we mention to push the remote and THEN drop the post. Of course you can drop the post while sitting on it already, but actually in real riding, I can not imagine a situation, where I would need do so. A descend never comes out of sudden, while I am sitting. Usually I am standing and the drop my saddle for the descend. Or I have time to slightly unweigh th saddle to then engage the remote and drop it.
It jsut comes naturally, that I barely engage the remote, while sitting on the post wiht my full weight.
Also: We specifically mention to try to move the saddle in the direction of the stanchion tube. This will ensure most smooth movement and reliability. Pushing the saddle just down will creat bending and will definitely be more stress on the post itself.
The same happens to forks that have to move through travel while braking hard, or while being twisted in sharp turns. A fork in action travels a lot different than that what you can feel on the infamous parking lot push-test. Those test do not make sense at all to give you an idea about how smooth fork will work under load.


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## bigbangus (Oct 28, 2016)

sacki said:


> @bigbangus:
> The reason why it is differently noticeable on different posts is the layout of the internals and the leverage ratio of the remote. Obviously, we have designed our remote for a short lever throw.


Makes perfect sense and thank you for answering.



sacki said:


> @bigbangus:
> That being said, it does not need to be addressed in QC. QC is there to make sure, parts are produced according to specification. Our post works exactly the way it is supposed to do. Not sure, what you want to tell us with this.


 I was speculating because I didn't imagine lever ratio or piston cross-sectional area was significantly different than any other post. Now I know this is the cause from what you say.

In the end I still love your product more than any other :thumbsup:, but maybe in my case I should try a remote with more leverage. I think you guys did a great job with the overall package from a serviceability standpoint. Also I particularly like the texture, it seems to hold in my frame without slipping down like my Transfer did for the same torque (Mach 429 Trail).

Maybe for version #2 we can get a scale on the outside so we can gauge insertion depth? I'm using tape now


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## justinnardella (Jun 23, 2016)

sacki said:


> It is really weird, that this happened with two different posts. Which frame are you using our REVIVE in?


It is a 2017 alloy Trek Fuel EX frame.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

onzadog said:


> You could also try running a gear cable through a piece of brake housing. The brake housing will be more flexible and designed for a larger diameter cable. A dropper post doesn't need the same precise cable movement as a shifter does so it should work just fine.


Thanks for the various suggestions re. cable routing, guys. It does sound like the issue. I've replaced the inner and outer cable again and it's running smooth. This is always the case but I've given it more cable than previously and been very conscious of where it may have been bent too far previously.


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## pixel_nut (Jun 27, 2012)

What are peoples thoughts on putting this dropper's upper stanchion into a work stand clamp like the PCS-9? It isn't a sealing surface, so I would imagine a rag and a thorough exterior cleaning of the clamp and stanchion would suffice. On the other hand, I'm extremely hesitant to damage a brand new component that's nearly $400.


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## bigbangus (Oct 28, 2016)

pixel_nut said:


> What are peoples thoughts on putting this dropper's upper stanchion into a work stand clamp like the PCS-9? It isn't a sealing surface, so I would imagine a rag and a thorough exterior cleaning of the clamp and stanchion would suffice. On the other hand, I'm extremely hesitant to damage a brand new component that's nearly $400.


I just wipe down the clamp and post each time. I have a feedback pro stand that has hard rubber jaws. Never had an issue.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

I never clamp anything to a stanchion, be it a fork, a shock, or more recently a dropper.
I'm sure it's safe and it wouldn't do any damage, even more when wrapped on a cloth or with a soft rubber clamp, but I also know $h1ts happen, so I play on the safe side.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

I never clamp the stanchion, why not just clamp the lower tube?


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

pixel_nut said:


> What are peoples thoughts on putting this dropper's upper stanchion into a work stand clamp like the PCS-9? It isn't a sealing surface, so I would imagine a rag and a thorough exterior cleaning of the clamp and stanchion would suffice. On the other hand, I'm extremely hesitant to damage a brand new component that's nearly $400.


I don't, it's not made to take that and who knows what your torque will do while it's in the stand. Clamp the frame or somewhere else. Pull the seatpost a bit out if you have to.


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## pixel_nut (Jun 27, 2012)

monts said:


> I never clamp the stanchion, why not just clamp the lower tube?


With a 185mm, the lower tube won't be exposed. I almost feel like the lower could be crushed easier than the stanchion, but I'm basing that off of nothing. I started a post on the Guerrilla Gravity MTB'ers FB page and most people seem to think that clamping the stanchion with a rag between the stanchion and stand clamp suffices, particularly if you loosen the work stand's head and allow the front of the bike to fall close to its natural resting position. I was hoping *saki* would weigh in on this, but from a product preservation standpoint I'm assuming the answer might be "clamp something else that isn't our dropper" haha.

From the hugely varying opinions out there with no real data and mostly "what-if" scenarios, it seems like the general consensus is that clamping the stanchion while being cautious is fine-- but I'm going to only do so when the work I'm doing on my bike doesn't involve lots of torque-- I'll clamp my frame for that which thankfully is AL.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

I gently clamp my post's stanchion in my Feedback stand all the time, and it hasn't caused any issues. This stand has a soft rubber coating completely covering the clamp jaws. I always do it with the post fully extended, so at that point it's a mechanical transfer of weight. Like Pixel said, I usually rest the front wheel on the ground when I do this. I do this because there's not enough of the lower tube exposed, and it's a really tight fit between my shock and the top tube (Nomad 3). If I'm working on my fork, then I take the time to grab the frame instead.


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## cbr6fs (Apr 1, 2008)

Is there any option available to convert this post to external cable routing?


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## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

cbr6fs said:


> Is there any option available to convert this post to external cable routing?


No, the cable attaches at the very bottom of the post.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

cbr6fs said:


> Is there any option available to convert this post to external cable routing?


I don't think so. Except of drilling the frame, of course ...


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## elborikua (Mar 14, 2014)

Ordered 30.9x160. Looking forward to trying out.

Hard to pass up the sweet 21% discount code from competitivecyclist.com


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

pixel_nut said:


> With a 185mm, the lower tube won't be exposed. I almost feel like the lower could be crushed easier than the stanchion, but I'm basing that off of nothing. I started a post on the Guerrilla Gravity MTB'ers FB page and most people seem to think that clamping the stanchion with a rag between the stanchion and stand clamp suffices, particularly if you loosen the work stand's head and allow the front of the bike to fall close to its natural resting position. I was hoping *saki* would weigh in on this, but from a product preservation standpoint I'm assuming the answer might be "clamp something else that isn't our dropper" haha.
> 
> From the hugely varying opinions out there with no real data and mostly "what-if" scenarios, it seems like the general consensus is that clamping the stanchion while being cautious is fine-- but I'm going to only do so when the work I'm doing on my bike doesn't involve lots of torque-- I'll clamp my frame for that which thankfully is AL.


Saki confirmed similar advise to me when I asked a few months back. OK to clamp stanchion but effectively be very careful, soft rag with no contaminants and let bike hang so post is not torqued. So That's what I'm doing. Previously I would have said only the lower but pulling the post out every time you clamp and regreasing presents its own issues.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

Is anybody having problems with the Revive twisting? My seat twists very easily, sometimes with just a hard pedal stoke while seated. I first noticed this after a pretty non-violent crash. The lower portion (with the Revive logo) stays in place, so it's not a problem of insufficient seattube clamp torque.

Any guesses about a piece that could have come loose to cause this?

Other than the twisting, I absolutely love the post.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

Sid Duffman said:


> Is anybody having problems with the Revive twisting? My seat twists very easily, sometimes with just a hard pedal stoke while seated. I first noticed this after a pretty non-violent crash. The lower portion (with the Revive logo) stays in place, so it's not a problem of insufficient seattube clamp torque.
> 
> Any guesses about a piece that could have come loose to cause this?
> 
> Other than the twisting, I absolutely love the post.


There are key paths that should lock it into place, yours may have slipped out of position? You may need to twist it a little further until it locks back into proper position. Really, it should not slip, mine is rock solid. And it's taken some hard hits.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

@Sid Duffman
Our stanchion and head of the post are threaded and glued together This bond normally can not be undone. At least not under normal use. However, as you said, in case of a crash the impact on the saddle nose can break the glued bond and cause the head to come loose.
I suggest you contact our nearest service center or contact me via e-mail, then I can give assistance on how to proceed.

Regarding the workstand question:
I have always clamped my posts in a workstand (no matter if RS, KS, Fox, ...). My workstand´s clamps are made of plastic/rubber and I have never had a problem, even without using a rug/cloth between. This does not mean, that we officially allow to clamp it, because there are a lot of (sorry) dumb users out there, that manage to damage everything they can and then complain because "you said so". I am just saying, that I have never had an issue, and I will peronally never get an issue from keeping doing so. I think I do not need to mention, that my clamps are always clean and that I do not clamp with a force that almost breaks my arm when closing the stand, right? ;-)


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

monts said:


> There are key paths that should lock it into place, yours may have slipped out of position? You may need to twist it a little further until it locks back into proper position. Really, it should not slip, mine is rock solid. And it's taken some hard hits.


You really can not slip out of any path, unless you forgot to re-insert all the 6 pins, when putting the post back together after a service. Even, if there is only one pin left in the tube, the head can not spin. It might just have a little bit more play. If the head of the post is really twisting/ can rotate, then something is wrong with the post and needs to go to service.


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## theycallmeE (Aug 21, 2007)

CWnSWCO said:


> I think the comments/complaints over the Triggy lever are hilarious!!
> 
> Before I purchased a Revive, I used a 9.8 Fall Line with a WolfTooth Remote.
> When I installed the Revive, I just kept the WolfTooth remote on and used it with the Revive.... all good.
> ...


Okay, CWnSWCO, as a previous Triggy complainer, I'll concede you're right. I've now got extended time on the Bikeyoke and Triggy, including multi-day trips. After getting used to the feel, it's completely smooth, predictable and trouble free :thumbsup:

I've found it a good suggestion to depress the seat a bit during storage if there are big temperature swings from night and day. Keeps that initial trigger push easier.

Interesting to see what a great value these posts were. They are now going for over $375. Very happy with mine.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

theycallmeE said:


> suggestion to depress the seat a bit during storage.


What is it about, explain please?

For now, got some feelings that triggy a little bit hard to push at first microseconds..


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> What is it about, explain please? For now, got some feelings that triggy a little bit hard to push at first microseconds..


 Read this post from sacki up on this thread Bikeyoke Revive - #622, you will understand.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

^

hells my DVO Garnet does this too. ride around in winter, park bike at home. next day almost impossible to push the lever to drop post. once I do get it to go down, it is fine.

the pressure differentials from temp changes muck with the initial trigger on more than just revive. but I never had this happen on my revive either, it is always 'just working' and an occasional rare 'revive lever' is needed. 

one very odd thing ....OK I just about never need to hit the revive lever, ever.
But yes, sure enough, rarely, I do. But then, those times I do need it, I might need to revive it 3 times in 5 minutes (not just once) before it stays up with no smush. but once it is staying put, it stays there for dozens of rides, weeks on end....hard as a rock. so...in my experience the revive function works, but not always on the first go, may take a few resets.

it's an awesome post no question. love the immediate smooth clank when it pops up on command in 1/4th a second.


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## BigHerm (May 21, 2018)

4 weeks in and I finally had to revive my dropper for the first time. Felt the telltale squish at full extension and got excited to test er out. Worked like a charm. Love my 185 🤙


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

I am on a L Nomad 3 with a 150mm fox seatpost. Works well, but considering to get a longer dropper.
I can buy a oneup 170mm for $170.
Does the 185mm bikeyoke offer a significant advantage compared to the 170mm oneup?
I 5'8.5", 31" inseam.
Looks like I can easily make the 185mm work for me.


Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


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## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

The big advantage for me is that if a revive goes wrong, I can fix it at home with normal tools and £20 worth of spares. I can be back out riding the same day.

I'm not sure about the one up, but doesn't it use a non serviceable £80 cartridge if it goes wrong?

I've learned the hard way, that the best dropper isn't the reliable one (as none are), it's the repairable one!


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## cunningstunts (Sep 1, 2011)

Question for revive owners. How well does it function in foul weather when it's getting repeatedly splashed with mud. Does it slow down? Does it need frequent greasing or other maintenance in these conditions? Thanks.


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## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

cunningstunts said:


> Question for revive owners. How well does it function in foul weather when it's getting repeatedly splashed with mud. Does it slow down? Does it need frequent greasing or other maintenance in these conditions? Thanks.


In my opinion, it does suffer some performance issues under wet and muddy conditions. Not enough to make it unusable... just slows it down during that particular ride. Cleans up nicely and works well the next time out.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

Honestly, I’ve had no problems with the action of the post in extreme weather conditions, and I’ve rode it in mud, snow, slop, you name it. Never needed to re-grease or anything.


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## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

We had a really wet spring and I never noticed any difference in performance during a ride when the post was covered with mud. 

I haven't given mine a full service after a year of use, and the seal does feel a bit dry after a ride and cleaning, but a little lube on the stanchion and a couple of cycles up and down and it feels good again.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

cunningstunts said:


> Question for revive owners. How well does it function in foul weather when it's getting repeatedly splashed with mud. Does it slow down? Does it need frequent greasing or other maintenance in these conditions? Thanks.


I've ridden the hell out of these in our nasty muddy Alaska conditions, they've worked excellent IME. On the same rides I've had specialized and fox posts grind to a halt. The bikeyoke is the real deal here.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Want 225mm version..pretty pls Sacki; )


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

The bad
1. The head snapped off my post. 
2. Upon return, it puked oil inside my frame after four rides. 

The good
1: Most reliable post I owned. 
2: No BS questions regarding warranty service. 
3: Minimal shipping cost for tHe first return and no cost for the second. 
4: Quick turn around, and I live in the US. 
5. Best action.
6. longest drop that would fit my frame. 185mm

Dilemma
150 Fox vs 185 BikeYoke. The shops swear by the Transfers, but they are stocking dealers. My Transfer is about 8 weeks old. 

Posting this not to bag on the company, but to actually point out good CS and for current standards, good durability. There’s another company, I could denigrate, but I’ll leave that alone. I still think dropper tech has a little ways to go. .



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Interested in this post but after reading the manual it sounds like every time you lower the seat while riding the rider is supposed to weight the seat. Is that correct? 

I have been doing that for years with my Gravity Dropper, so not a huge deal, but want to set my expectations accordingly with this post.

If you have used a Gravity Dropper, doe the Revive require less weighting/effort?


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Uhmm.. Isn't any exisistin dropper supposed to get down under load?..


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## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

Never come across a post that powers down, that's always done with body weight.

The manual does emphasise pushing the post down on the line of the post rather than dropping 200lbs straight down on it to help prolong the life of the bushes. This isn't particular to the revive, it's just physics and would be best practice for any dropper.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

onzadog said:


> Never come across a post that powers down, that's always done with body weight.
> 
> The manual does emphasise pushing the post down on the line of the post rather than dropping 200lbs straight down on it to help prolong the life of the bushes. This isn't particular to the revive, it's just physics and would be best practice for any dropper.


A rental that I used a few years ago had a Reverb and I am probably confusing no weighting for the return. Although it required far less weighting to lower than the Gravity Dropper, just seemed like a tap.

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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Reverbs and ALL droppers manual-actuated NEED to weight to lower!


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

My 185 still performing flawlessly. Best post out there by a mile 

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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

cjsb said:


> Interested in this post but after reading the manual it sounds like every time you lower the seat while riding the rider is supposed to weight the seat. Is that correct?
> 
> I have been doing that for years with my Gravity Dropper, so not a huge deal, but want to set my expectations accordingly with this post.
> 
> ...


In general, yes, less effort, the Bikeyoke is extremely smooth and makes other posts, like the Transfer, feel like they are full of peanut butter by comparison.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Jayem said:


> In general, yes, less effort, the Bikeyoke is extremely smooth and makes other posts, like the Transfer, feel like they are full of peanut butter by comparison.


thanks for the feedback. I have gotten used to the deep knee bend routine of the GDs, but heard that the Revive has a clever solution to bleeding issues that are common to hydraulic posts. So it sounds promising, but not so much if it requires as much weighting as the GD. When I have saddle sores the GD goes from effort to pain.

I had a reverb for a day on a slash park rental and was impressed with no effort on the return and very slight for dropping.

The Revive will likely be my next post.

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## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

cjsb said:


> thanks for the feedback. I have gotten used to the deep knee bend routine of the GDs, but heard that the Revive has a clever solution to bleeding issues that are common to hydraulic posts. So it sounds promising, but not so much if it requires as much weighting as the GD. When I have saddle sores the GD goes from effort to pain.
> 
> I had a reverb for a day on a slash park rental and was impressed with no effort on the return and very slight for dropping.
> 
> The Revive will likely be my next post.


You won't regret it. If you liked the Reverb, you will love the Revive, it works the same but does it all better. I had a Gravity Dropper back in the day, and while it gets the job done, it's like pounding nails with a brick compared to any air/oil post being a proper hammer. And especially compared to the Revive. It really is the best designed post on the market.


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## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

Not sure how this happened but I was repositioning my saddle and bolt snapped while tightening. I always followed torque spec and did 5nm. Anyway, Is this bolt something I can get from Home Depot? or LBS? If so, what size?

Thank you


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## akantus178 (Mar 20, 2018)

HaxEJxuK said:


> Not sure how this happened but I was repositioning my saddle and bolt snapped while tightening. I always followed torque spec and did 5nm. Anyway, Is this bolt something I can get from Home Depot? or LBS? If so, what size?
> 
> Thank you


Happened to me too, on the trail I used bolt from the remote clamp, but you can easily buy it from hardware store. Should be M5x20(or 25) with an allen head.

It's a good idea to have one in backpack just in case. They are used on more places than just the saddle clamp.

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## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

akantus178 said:


> Happened to me too, on the trail I used bolt from the remote clamp, but you can easily buy it from hardware store. Should be M5x20(or 25) with an allen head.
> 
> It's a good idea to have one in backpack just in case. They are used on more places than just the saddle clamp.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


Thank you for quick reply. Now I don't have to miss ride tomorrow  I'm assuming pitch is 1mm?


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## akantus178 (Mar 20, 2018)

HaxEJxuK said:


> Thank you for quick reply. Now I don't have to miss ride tomorrow  I'm assuming pitch is 1mm?


You got me there.  For M5 the pitch should be 0.8mm, but I'm no expert. What I can tell you that it is the most common size, just random M5 bolt, no special pitch or chamfer.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


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## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

akantus178 said:


> You got me there.  For M5 the pitch should be 0.8mm, but I'm no expert. What I can tell you that it is the most common size, just random M5 bolt, no special pitch or chamfer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


Heading to Home Depot now. Thank you!


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

HaxEJxuK said:


> Not sure how this happened but I was repositioning my saddle and bolt snapped while tightening. I always followed torque spec and did 5nm. Anyway, Is this bolt something I can get from Home Depot? or LBS? If so, what size?
> 
> Thank you





akantus178 said:


> Happened to me too, on the trail I used bolt from the remote clamp, but *you can easily buy it from hardware store*. Should be M5x20(or 25) with an allen head.
> ...


I'm sorry, but saddle clamp bolts definitely aren't standard ones you can buy in hardware store, they have special rounded (chamfered) head at the bottom, where the threaded shaft ends, see enclosed picture.


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## akantus178 (Mar 20, 2018)

PeterG said:


> I'm sorry, but saddle clamp bolts definitely aren't standard ones you can buy in hardware store, they have special rounded head where the threaded shaft ends, see enclosed picture.


Can't check atm as I'm away from bike, but the steel bolts looked pretty normal to me, I don't even know which bolt is original and which is new.

Anyway, it is working for me for over a month now and I have full confidence in it.

Maybe HaxEJxuK or someone can upload picture of the original steel bolt.

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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

I did uploded original bolt picture, the steel one looks the same, I have both. Using bolt with standard cylindrical head stresses the head of the bolt and also damages the bolt head saddle. I'm a technican ...

I've did the picture of original Bikeyoke steel bolt and uploded it.


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## akantus178 (Mar 20, 2018)

PeterG said:


> I did uploded original bolt picture, the steel one looks the same, I have both. Using bolt with standard cylindrical head stresses the head of the bolt and also damages the bolt head saddle. I'm a technican ...


Fair point, if it is the same as Ti then you are right. Would not worry about it tho. If you want the peace of mind, you can order a new set, until then I would just use normal bolt.

Anyway, thanks for pointing that out, I completely missed that chamfer when inspecting the bolts.

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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

PeterG said:


> I did uploded original bolt picture, the steel one looks the same, I have both. Using bolt with standard cylindrical head stresses the head of the bolt and also damages the bolt head saddle. I'm a technican ...
> 
> I've did the picture of original Bikeyoke steel bolt and uploded it.


if you have spare conical washers from brake mounting, and they'd fit, then a square head would be acceptable in there with a washer to distribute load equally into the cup.... But I think brake conical washers are slightly too big


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Yes, that's correct, but brake bolts are M6 while these are M5, thus the brake conical washers are a little too big, as you have mentioned.


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## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

Well, I'm back from Home Depot and they only had plain steel one so I got them thinking I'll just use that for ride tomorrow and order one from Amazon.

Quick Amazon scan, I couldn't find rounded one and one from Bike Yoke is $30 for basically 2 bolts? It is Titanium but wow.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

HaxEJxuK said:


> Well, I'm back from Home Depot and they only had plain steel one so I got them thinking I'll just use that for ride tomorrow and order one from Amazon.
> 
> Quick Amazon scan, I couldn't find rounded one and one from Bike Yoke is $30 for basically 2 bolts? It is Titanium but wow.


then don't get the titanium ones


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Original steel one is only 1.90 eur, https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-saddle-clamp-bolt.html. You can also try to get Thomson Elite/Masterpiece bolts, if you want to have titanium ones (e.g. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ti-Titaniu...-Elite-Masterpiece-Elite-Dropper/201596397659)


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## akantus178 (Mar 20, 2018)

HaxEJxuK said:


> Well, I'm back from Home Depot and they only had plain steel one so I got them thinking I'll just use that for ride tomorrow and order one from Amazon.
> 
> Quick Amazon scan, I couldn't find rounded one and one from Bike Yoke is $30 for basically 2 bolts? It is Titanium but wow.


For sure use it tomorrow, I have over 10 big rides on mine without any issues, also with using it to adjust the saddle more than few times.

Maybe it is good idea to buy the correct ones, but I know that I will probably not do it. 
But first I will inspect the replacement how it looks, also the clamp bolt interface. If there are any severe signs of abuse a will have to reconsider.

Other option is to use some kind of washer or mabe file the bolt head a bit.

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## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

127.0.0.1 said:


> then don't get the titanium ones


hahahaha Stupid me. I was only looking at pictures and not reading name of the product and was only able to find Ti one. After you said that, I went through again and saw SS one.

I'll order one with Quick Reset Lever


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## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

Heck, ordering service kit at same time since I'm going to need it later this year anyway.

Wish all these are available in US though. For faster shipping.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

HaxEJxuK said:


> Heck, ordering service kit at same time since I'm going to need it later this year anyway.
> 
> Wish all these are available in US though. For faster shipping.


shipping was fast last time I ordered, like 4 days

today, I am getting two bolts because....of the most recent posts here
my post is fine, but now paranoid


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## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

127.0.0.1 said:


> shipping was fast last time I ordered, like 4 days
> 
> today, I am getting two bolts because....of the most recent posts here
> my post is fine, but now paranoid


Wow, that's lot different than 7-14 days quoted. I can live with that and I actually ordered 3 bolts just in case. 1 for now and 2 that I hope I don't have to use but will be there if I need it. I know couple of people who has Revive so in case theirs snap, I got them covered too.

Yup, this was first ever I snapped anything as far as bike goes. I even have 3 different torque wrench for different force. I always used small hand torque wrench that can do max of 10nm and always set to 5nm for this.

I disassembled everything, cleaned, greased then tried to put bolt on and it just snapped without much force. Took me couple of seconds to figure out what happened since this never happened to me.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

HaxEJxuK said:


> Took me couple of seconds to figure out what happened since this never happened to me.


so, what happened? Over-torqueing?


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## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

ka81ua said:


> so, what happened? Over-torqueing?


Nope, it just snapped. I always used hand torque wrench that can do max of 10nm which should be most accurate to do 5nm. Never over torqued and set it to exactly 5nm every time. Things happens I guess.


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

I and my buddy had 9.8 bolts snap. Thomson hardware might fit 


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

My Revive arrived Friday, installed yesterday and first decent ride for a test. 

Install was okay. Challenging part was housing length. Accounted for enough length to avoid frame rub and post insertion more than the 90mm minimum. 

But, it wasn’t until I connected it all that I realised that I determined those adjustments above separately, whereas they need to be adjusted and determined together. 

Not too big a deal as the extra housing length is tolerable for now and everything works. 

instructions emphasise 17mm of cable extending from housing and that was confusing until the moment I tried to attach the ferrule end of housing to the post. Luckily i had 17mm, but I have no idea what they were referring to with laser etching for the measurement. As I type this maybe it was etched at bottom of post as there is something written there. 

The bleed valve works fine once you figure it out. 

The Triggy remote is outstanding. I prefer the action to my Wolftoith and I never thought I’d say that. 

Only ride impressions so far is it works smoothly. much easier than my GD. the saddle clamps came lois during first ride, really loose and I had to stop and adjust whole thing in high humidity with sweat pouring on my eyes. The saddle clamp adjustment is my least favourite trail side and this one uses 25torx, good thing I remembered to bring the set., usually I don’t ride with one. 

I’ll likely take it apart soon to shorten housing but otherwise this thing is damn impressive. 


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## Dropper (Mar 1, 2018)

Yeah its laser etched on the bottom of the post and was that writing you saw...if it was a snake it would of bit you! Enjoy your new dropper. Did your come with the lever for the reset? I have 4 of these bought one used etc but they were when these first came out and i purchased the reset lever and really like it just curious if they ship with them now.

https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/quick-reset-lever.html


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

they ship with them now, but no guarantee the seller who has them on the shelf has older or newer stock with lever included.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Dropper said:


> Yeah its laser etched on the bottom of the post and was that writing you saw...if it was a snake it would of bit you! Enjoy your new dropper. Did your come with the lever for the reset? I have 4 of these bought one used etc but they were when these first came out and i purchased the reset lever and really like it just curious if they ship with them now.
> 
> https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/quick-reset-lever.html


Yes, it shipped with the re-set lever but I have not put it on yet. After doing a reset on the trail this morning I am going to put it on.

press down, keep wrench in place-if the wrench moves back it does not work I found out-, and then if you activate triggy you need a third hand. On the trail I just pressed the saddle down by hand while holding that wrench in the correct position and perfectumundo!

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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I have been on Revives for a solid year with lots of riding and have only reset on installation, and once when I depressed the post upside down to test the revive function. Having a lever mounted all the time seems pointless to me.


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## Dropper (Mar 1, 2018)

Travis Bickle said:


> I have been on Revives for a solid year with lots of riding and have only reset on installation, and once when I depressed the post upside down to test the revive function. Having a lever mounted all the time seems pointless to me.


Thanks

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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Travis Bickle said:


> I have been on Revives for a solid year with lots of riding and have only reset on installation, and once when I depressed the post upside down to test the revive function. Having a lever mounted all the time seems pointless to me.


Seconding the thanks! I was wondering if normal use, in practice was to reset every ride? If that was the case then the lever was going on.

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## Dropper (Mar 1, 2018)

I was being facetious...its so tiny why not put it on was like a feather...


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

it is nice to have for those once every 50 rides you do find an iota of squash, and can just instantly fix it instead of thinking about it, or diving into the toolbag for a hex wrench

rolling with lever installed...it seals the deal on revive being ultimate best lucky seatpost


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

cjsb said:


> Seconding the thanks! I was wondering if normal use, in practice was to reset every ride? If that was the case then the lever was going on.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I find if I transport the bike by putting it on it's side inside of a car, it's much more common to have it a little saggy. Maybe it's the road vibration or something. I do this on vacation sometimes. Putting it on it's side while on the trail seems to make no difference. If you transport your bike upright, it'll probably be pretty rare for you to reset it. On my heavier AM bike, I installed the lever just to have it there. On my XC race bike, I did not.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

Jayem said:


> I find if I transport the bike by putting it on it's side inside of a car, it's much more common to have it a little saggy. Maybe it's the road vibration or something. I do this on vacation sometimes. Putting it on it's side while on the trail seems to make no difference. If you transport your bike upright, it'll probably be pretty rare for you to reset it. On my heavier AM bike, I installed the lever just to have it there. On my XC race bike, I did not.


I get the same thing occasionally. Or when lifting the bike by the saddle while it's depressed.

It seems that some are complaining about having to reset the post. That's like complaining that you have to lube your chain. It's so simple and well worth the hassle of having 2 seasons on mine and it's never been removed from the bike. Just the occasional reset. It's actually easier than lubing my chain, or adding air to the tires / fork / shock, or filling my water bottle....


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## gasmanxj (Sep 29, 2014)

Since there's a lot of traffic on reviving the post, here's my experience. I've had two posts for a year now and probably used the revive feature about 1/2 dozen times between them. Most of those were crashes or dumb on my part (turning bike over with seat down) so having the lever made it a snap to revive and move on. But easy enough to pull a tool out and do it so whatever way floats your boat. Under normal riding conditions rare to have to revive at all. 

The posts have been utterly reliable and trouble free which was completely opposite of other brands. Restored my faith that a dropper can be made that doesn't suck!


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I had to revive a post that had been removed and sat on a bench for a month, but I had forgotton how.


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## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

Travis Bickle said:


> I had to revive a post that had been removed and sat on a bench for a month, but I had forgotton how.


Haha... I use the Revive feature so infrequently that I often forget how also.... takes a minute and couple tries to remind myself.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

My post has been great however I get a slight click/pop when leaning on the front of the saddle. Normal? Ive only had my post a few months.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

see page 6, it seems bikeyoke is sort of notorious for saddle creaks. the saddle interface design they picked seems to be inducive to creaks, so there are various things people have done to fix it

edit: fwiw, mine never creaked and doesn't creak today


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## zonoskar (Jan 22, 2004)

Nobody saw this?









It has 80mm drop and weighs 390 grams. It also does away with the reset feature, it was not needed anymore according to Sacki (the owner of Bikeyoke).


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

127.0.0.1 said:


> see page 6, it seems bikeyoke is sort of notorious for saddle creaks. the saddle interface design they picked seems to be inducive to creaks, so there are various things people have done to fix it


I will give that a shot today. Thanks.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

127.0.0.1 said:


> see page 6, it seems bikeyoke is sort of notorious for saddle creaks. the *saddle interface design they picked seems to be inducive to creaks,* so there are various things people have done to fix it


Saddle creaks? What are saddle creaks? 
0.1mm brass shim, mentioned many times before ...


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## Dropper (Mar 1, 2018)

Where do you get those little suckers?


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

0.1mm brass sheet from eBay + manicure scissors + hands


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

My noise is more of a click/pop when applying pressure on saddle. But doesnt do it all the time. I just swapped saddle a few weeks ago. I will try the anti seize grease up. I believe the internals just have some wear. I dont see how anti seize on the rails and bolts will fix my issue. But its worth a shot.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Are you sure it isn't your saddle making the sounds?
My saddle has some play b between the rails and the seat, but it doesn't make any sound. It's possible that your saddle is causing the noise.


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## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

Aglo said:


> Are you sure it isn't your saddle making the sounds?
> My saddle has some play b between the rails and the seat, but it doesn't make any sound. It's possible that your saddle is causing the noise.


That is possible as I have one of those saddle on my other bike. But all the noise that was coming from saddle area with Revive for me has been clamp so far.

I almost returned new saddle I got because of it. It was pretty loud pop and creak but after taking it apart clamping parts, clean it good and grease everything, noise went away. So far, I had to do that either twice or 3 times which last time I did snap the bolt.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

The 2 saddles were squeaking/pop. Both were new. I greased up everything last night. I will report back after ride.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

It turns out the click/pop is something wrong with post internals. Only 2 months on the post. If you look close at the pic there is grey oil and scratch marks going up the post. I guess I see what warranty says. This is not good at all. The post still goes up and down but now feels very notchy. I noticed this today after going for ride. Not sure on the turn around time either since the post probably has to ship to Germany.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

well, that is unusual and expect them to ask to do some
checks and perhaps open it up

but they will take care of you for sure. just sucks there is
an international delay unless they can source one in the US from
a dealer


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Yeah im sure they will take care of me. I have not had good luck with any droppers. My Thompson post was sent in to warranty 3 times. It might be the elevation im at. I typically ride over 8000 -10000 feet.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Quick update. I pulled apart the post, greased, and checked over cables. Only wear is on the sanction. Reassembled no click/pop and doesnt feel notchy. Not sure whats going on. Rode today and no issues. I will see what the warranty folks say. Super easy to work on post. Getting parts for it might be a whole other can of worms.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

akantus178 said:


> Happened to me too, on the trail I used bolt from the remote clamp, but you can easily buy it from hardware store. Should be M5x20(or 25) with an allen head.
> 
> It's a good idea to have one in backpack just in case. They are used on more places than just the saddle clamp.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


It is actually M5x30, but you should not simply replace it with a bolt from the hardware store. Our bolts have a 5mm radius on the bottom of the head, which is important for the concave seat.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

HaxEJxuK said:


> Heck, ordering service kit at same time since I'm going to need it later this year anyway.
> 
> Wish all these are available in US though. For faster shipping.


If you need any spare parts quicker in the US, then you may just try contacting Dirtlabs.
www.dirtlabs.com
They are one of our service centers and usually have spares of all single parts.

Cheers
Sacki


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

cjsb said:


> Yes, it shipped with the re-set lever but I have not put it on yet. After doing a reset on the trail this morning I am going to put it on.
> 
> press down, keep wrench in place-if the wrench moves back it does not work I found out-, and then if you activate triggy you need a third hand. On the trail I just pressed the saddle down by hand while holding that wrench in the correct position and perfectumundo!
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I am not sure, if I read or understood correctly, what you wrote, but YOU MUST NOT PUSH THE TRIGGY WHILE RESETTING THE POST. This will not work or it will not work properly. Just pull the reset lever, then oush the post down and release the reset lever, while the post is at the lowest position. You don´t have to push the post down all the way, but you have to release the reset lever while you hold the post in position.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

stumpynerd said:


> My noise is more of a click/pop when applying pressure on saddle. But doesnt do it all the time. I just swapped saddle a few weeks ago. I will try the anti seize grease up. I believe the internals just have some wear. I dont see how anti seize on the rails and bolts will fix my issue. But its worth a shot.


When tightening the post, you should carefully tighten the bolts evenly. We´ve found out, that the upper saddle clamp can be moved slightly while tightening the bolts. You can slide the upper clamp to the front and to the back by about 5-10mm and it still will clamp just fine. However, if the upper clamp slides to the most forward position, then the bolts may touch the throuh-hole in the saddle head and might be the reason for the creaking. So when tightening, try to keep the upper clamp in a rearward position and then tighten the bolts. 
Also: I´ve tested torque on dry bolts up to 9-10Nm. Never had issues so far, but that is no guarantee. This might help as well, if you can´t get rid of creaking in the suggested ways before.

What you should try to get rid of creaking (in order):
1. Try to re-clamp with the upper clamp kept in the rearmost postion while tightening.
2. Try to tighten slightly more tight step by step. Never exceed 10Nm! No guarantee on this, this is on your own risk, but if you snap a bolt using this method, please contact me directly.
3. You may use thick/heavy grease on the contact faces, but then maxmium torque is 7Nm

What we´ve foud out lately:
While virtual seattube angles are gettign steeper and steeper, many companies decide to achieve this by an offset of the seattube to the front, and then a realtively much slacker actual seattube angle. That measn, that sometimes the actual seattube angle is in regions of 65°. Good exmaples are Scott and Trek:







I order to adjust the saddle horizontal, you would need to adjust the nose to point down a lot in relation to the seatpost axis.
We will in the future adjust the angles bolts and the head slightly to allow more adjustment towards saddle nose down. We´re not sure, if this is the reason for the creaking, but for sure it won´t hurt, if the do this little mod to our posts.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

stumpynerd said:


> Quick update. I pulled apart the post, greased, and checked over cables. Only wear is on the sanction. Reassembled no click/pop and doesnt feel notchy. Not sure whats going on. Rode today and no issues. I will see what the warranty folks say. Super easy to work on post. Getting parts for it might be a whole other can of worms.


Sorry for the trouble you are having with your REVIVE. I´ll get back to your e-mail, asap.
If any of you guys need spare parts, you can always get them through me directly. Just shoot me an e-mail @ [email protected], if the parts are not available in the webshop, already.

But here to be mentioned again:
If you need any spares or help within the US, we have Dirtlabs as a service center, and also BTI. They all have every single part of our REVIVE as spares.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

sacki said:


> I am not sure, if I read or understood correctly, what you wrote, but YOU MUST NOT PUSH THE TRIGGY WHILE RESETTING THE POST. This will not work or it will not work properly. Just pull the reset lever, then oush the post down and release the reset lever, while the post is at the lowest position. You don´t have to push the post down all the way, but you have to release the reset lever while you hold the post in position.


Thanks so much for the reply and the help! Yes, at first I probably used the trigger after install. On the trail I couldn't remember so I tried it as you described and worked perfectly.

I never thought I would switch from my old reliable Gravity Dropper, which have served me well for a while now. But I love your post. It works great and looks good.

Best,

A new convert.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Lars K. P. (Jun 19, 2008)

After two months of use with the 125 mm version and the 2-by remote mounted at my Trek Topfuel I am 100% satisfied and the use is much better compared to the Magura Wireless I used to have.

Fast, light and smooth


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## SoCal-Rider (May 25, 2009)

Has anyone traveled with their Revive by airplane? I'm wondering if I need to let any pressure out for the flight?


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

SoCal-Rider said:


> Has anyone traveled with their Revive by airplane? I'm wondering if I need to let any pressure out for the flight?


Why? Your bike can't survive at 8000'? That is the maximum that airplanes pressurize to.


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## SoCal-Rider (May 25, 2009)

Jayem said:


> Why? Your bike can't survive at 8000'? That is the maximum that airplanes pressurize to.


Yeah. Seems like a stupid question now that I've googled to find out if the airplane luggage compartment is pressurized.

People were posting about making sure to drop shock and fork air pressure. So that got me thinking about the Revive too.


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## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

stumpynerd said:


> View attachment 1208674
> 
> 
> It turns out the click/pop is something wrong with post internals. Only 2 months on the post. If you look close at the pic there is grey oil and scratch marks going up the post. I guess I see what warranty says. This is not good at all. The post still goes up and down but now feels very notchy. I noticed this today after going for ride. Not sure on the turn around time either since the post probably has to ship to Germany.


A similar story with mine. The beginning:

Bikeyoke Revive - Page 3- Mtbr.com

Now the post is ~330 hours old. The scratch is going worse:









I'm 100% sure this place of the post never contacted with anything external.

I've contacted BikeYoke by email. Hoping for the best. )


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

SoCal-Rider said:


> Yeah. Seems like a stupid question now that I've googled to find out if the airplane luggage compartment is pressurized.
> 
> People were posting about making sure to drop shock and fork air pressure. So that got me thinking about the Revive too.


 if you have to ask just let the pressure out and be done with it


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

accordnick said:


> A similar story with mine. The beginning:
> 
> Bikeyoke Revive - Page 3- Mtbr.com
> 
> ...


I ended up pulling mine apart and cleaning it and regrease with slick honey. Its super easy to service.

From what Bikeyoke told me the scratch has nothing to do with air sealing of the post. Mine is super smooth now. My guess, a fine amount dirt got past the seal on mine and probably your post. The greyish color on post sanction indicates dirt in the internals.


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## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

stumpynerd said:


> I ended up pulling mine apart and cleaning it and regrease with slick honey. Its super easy to service.
> 
> From what Bikeyoke told me the scratch has nothing to do with air sealing of the post. Mine is super smooth now. My guess, a fine amount dirt got past the seal on mine and probably your post. The greyish color on post sanction indicates dirt in the internals.


I serviced the post three times and each time found the internals in ideal condition. BY designed very good seal I guess (compared with Reverb and KS Dropzone I owned before). So I have no idea what caused a coating wear... waiting a reply from Sacki.


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## Xterra123 (Apr 22, 2017)

How is the BikeYolk post working for those of you with vertical bike racks? The only compaint I see here that concerns me is that it might be more temperamental to being turned upside down. Wondering if this includes transportation on a vertical bike rack?
Cheers!


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I've had mine on a few NS racks and have not needed to Revive.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

I've hung my bike up vertically on a storage hook and had to reset. I think it depends on if the post is at full height or lowered when it's hanging/vertical.

If the post is at full height, I never have a problem. Any time my post is lower than full height, it's susceptible to air/oil mixing by way of picking up the bike by the seat, or turning the bike upside down or going vertical on the back wheel.

The worst was a couple of weeks ago doing laps in the bike park. The chairlift operators just lift the bike by whatever they can, and the lift chairs had a hook to hang the bike by the front wheel, so my seatpost had about an inch of sag at the end of the day.

No biggie, I did a reset and all was fine.


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

accordnick said:


> A similar story with mine. The beginning:
> 
> Bikeyoke Revive - Page 3- Mtbr.com
> 
> ...


I'd love to hear what bikeyoke says about this. I had this happen to 3 of these posts- all brand new, all the first time the post dropped, torqued as lightly as 3nm. I think there's a plastic bushing in the front that is causing the gouging. What frame are you on and what is the STA? I think my issue is with the frame because a KS Lev did the same thing. The Fox transfer I have seems to work fine though with about 700 miles on it. It's a bummer because the bikeyoke was really smooth in another frame I had.


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## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

Just as an FYI, I broke bolt for saddle clamp like 2 weeks ago. 

Don't go out to hardware store to buy replacement bolt. I bought one to use till I get a replacement from Bikeyoke. Got the bolt last week and replaced it past Monday and found out metal shaving were dropping as I was unscrewing the bolt. Because of how saddle clamp is shaped as explained in earlier post and how square edge hardware store bolt head is, it actually carved in as it was tighten. 

I don't think it cut in much to do permanent damage and appears it's more of cosmetic damage but I wouldn't do it again. Good thing I've ordered couple of extra bolt just in case.


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## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

Streetdoctor said:


> I'd love to hear what bikeyoke says about this. I had this happen to 3 of these posts- all brand new, all the first time the post dropped, torqued as lightly as 3nm. I think there's a plastic bushing in the front that is causing the gouging. What frame are you on and what is the STA? I think my issue is with the frame because a KS Lev did the same thing. The Fox transfer I have seems to work fine though with about 700 miles on it. It's a bummer because the bikeyoke was really smooth in another frame I had.


Sacki replied and said that is probably a warranty case. Now I'm in a process of returning the post to bike-components.de (where it' had been bought).

It seems to be a common problem of long travel posts, I seen the similar pics at 9point8 thread. An upper tube may bend under the load and touch the outer tube inside - that's I imagine.

My Bikeyoke has been installed on Santa Cruz Bronson 2 frame, STA is 74 degrees and a seat tube is almost straight to BB so the actual angle I think is about ~72-73. Not a much difference compared to many other frames...


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

I just did the lowers service after running my Revive for 1 year, and was pleasantly surprised how easy it was. I inspected all the wear parts (I have a service kit), but nothing appeared to need replacing.

One question I have: does it matter how the brass alignment pins are oriented? I noticed they all have a slight bend to them, I'm assuming to help keep the post centered. It felt a bit easier to re-insert them by setting it so the center bend was on the outside.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

The reset lever is useless to me if you carry a 4mm hex. Mine broke on the first day and I didn't care. I'm sort of surprised by people's love of the reset lever

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

DriverB said:


> The reset lever is useless to me if you carry a 4mm hex. Mine broke on the first day and I didn't care. I'm sort of surprised by people's love of the reset lever
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


mine hasn't broken yet, and I use a shorty 125 with high pressure so that lever is seeing max torque. used about 100 times when really I only needed 5 times due to actual soggy post. the other 95 times is playing with it. good as new. yours may have been a one-off anomaly

I like it because don't need to fetch allen, it's just right there


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

+1 on that^
I just love using it, it's like a pre ride check, you check the brakes, you check suspension and you do a reset just for fun .
I do carry a 4mm Allen key, but that's for side trail repairs.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

DriverB said:


> The reset lever is useless to me if you carry a 4mm hex. Mine broke on the first day and I didn't care. I'm sort of surprised by people's love of the reset lever
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


How the hell did you manage to break it? I'm impressed. I mean, I get that they take a bit of effort to activate since I run mine at 250 psi, but it's so short I don't know how you got enough leverage to snap it.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

Andeh said:


> How the hell did you manage to break it? I'm impressed. I mean, I get that they take a bit of effort to activate since I run mine at 250 psi, but it's so short I don't know how you got enough leverage to snap it.


The head actually snapped off in the bolt. It's just a little piece of plastic that has a 4mm plastic hex head. I probably would have lost it anyway. I never leave the house without a hex set so no sweat 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

plastic ? 

it's metal

if you do not push it in all the way, and try it halfway, it can break.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Yeah, mine is metal also (I know because I somehow managed to rub some of the black paint off).


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

My Revive has been holding up great since November. Probably 200 hours? I just did 100 hour service this morning, late by 100 hours, per video. It took about an hour. Cleaning old grease/dirt was pretty time consuming. I think 2nd time around may be under 45 minute job. This post has been great for me. Best of 5 brands I have tried.


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## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

Just tried fitting the reset lever to my new post but the retaining o-ring has split.

Does anyone know the spec of these? I'd imagine 2.5mm ID with a 1mm CS - nitrile rubber?


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

I did a 100 mile race in tons of mud and muck over the weekend. Constant in-your-face mud. To have a dropper functioning the whole time is amazing.


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## jminus (Sep 4, 2008)

Hey @sacki, do all the 185 posts that have been produced have the revision 2 membrane? I am looking at picking up a second one that is used and I want to make sure its the latest version.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

jminus said:


> Hey @sacki, do all the 185 posts that have been produced have the revision 2 membrane? I am looking at picking up a second one that is used and I want to make sure its the latest version.


Yes, Came out same time as updates

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## TamiJean (Dec 24, 2013)

Has anyone flipped the bottom seat rail plate around to get a little more forward saddle position?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## jvo (Jun 10, 2006)

Wanted to see if any others have this issue. I bought two of these after seeing the Great reviews! Seem like one of the best droppers out but have a flaw IMO. The 2-3mm vertical sag/knock when sat on or pushed down on is too much for me. Just that is making me return these, I found it annoying after having 2 9point8 rock solid posts. Otherwise very well thought out and simple to work on if needed. Anyone else run into this?


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

jvo said:


> Wanted to see if any others have this issue. I bought two of these after seeing the Great reviews! Seem like one of the best droppers out but have a flaw IMO. The 2-3mm vertical sag/knock when sat on or pushed down on is too much for me. Just that is making me return these, I found it annoying after having 2 9point8 rock solid posts. Otherwise very well thought out and simple to work on if needed. Anyone else run into this?


what ?

my revive is as solid vertically 
as a solid post. z-e-r-o pushdown when sitting on it, or by hand

unless it needs a burp, which may be after a crash or after having bike
flipped upside down [after doing hobo-maintenance since I'm too cheap to
buy a stand]

if it does give me even 1mm of give, I revive it 1-3 times and back
to action

if you have a revive that has 1mm-3mm squish and the revive lever doesn't
solve it, there is something broken or seriously out of spec, ihmo. mine has
absolutely no give


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## jvo (Jun 10, 2006)

After skimming this thread a few others have mentioned it and after reading the manual it says "1-2mm" is normal? Does not sound normal to me either. I will send back and see. One of these was installed and the other was not. This was after multiple attempts to "revive". The one that was not installed I could grab both ends and push together for about 2mm. Very odd I would be 2 for 2 on this.


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## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

jvo said:


> Wanted to see if any others have this issue. I bought two of these after seeing the Great reviews! Seem like one of the best droppers out but have a flaw IMO. The 2-3mm vertical sag/knock when sat on or pushed down on is too much for me. Just that is making me return these, I found it annoying after having 2 9point8 rock solid posts. Otherwise very well thought out and simple to work on if needed. Anyone else run into this?


Mine does not have any sag. It's solid after a reset.


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## bogeydog (Apr 13, 2015)

jvo said:


> After skimming this thread a few others have mentioned it and after reading the manual it says "1-2mm" is normal? Does not sound normal to me either. I will send back and see. One of these was installed and the other was not. This was after multiple attempts to "revive". The one that was not installed I could grab both ends and push together for about 2mm. Very odd I would be 2 for 2 on this.


If you haven't already, reset

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

wow you are right

"All those things contribute to occurring minimal verticalmovement of the post, when under load. This movement can beup to 1-3mm and is absolutely normal. "

mine does not by hand...
if it's doing it while riding I don't notice anything


further it says
"It does not come from air,that you might think is still trapped inside the inner chamber.You will not be able to feel this when riding, and there is no needto worry about it."


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## jvo (Jun 10, 2006)

Yes its on page #22 of the online Bike Yoke Revive Manual. I would probably be fine with the 1mm of vertical play but not 2-3mm with a seat that clicks every time it is sat on or picked up.


127.0.0.1 said:


> wow you are right
> 
> "All those things contribute to occurring minimal verticalmovement of the post, when under load. This movement can beup to 1-3mm and is absolutely normal. "
> 
> ...


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## cunningstunts (Sep 1, 2011)

jvo said:


> Wanted to see if any others have this issue. I bought two of these after seeing the Great reviews! Seem like one of the best droppers out but have a flaw IMO. The 2-3mm vertical sag/knock when sat on or pushed down on is too much for me. Just that is making me return these, I found it annoying after having 2 9point8 rock solid posts. Otherwise very well thought out and simple to work on if needed. Anyone else run into this?


JVO, you had 2 9.8? you no longer do? what happened to them? i gather you prefer the BY?


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## jvo (Jun 10, 2006)

cunningstunts said:


> JVO, you had 2 9.8? you no longer do? what happened to them? i gather you prefer the BY?


I still have them, one is on my sons bike and the other just went back on my bike. I built up a second bike for me so now I will order another 9point8.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

jvo said:


> Wanted to see if any others have this issue. I bought two of these after seeing the Great reviews! Seem like one of the best droppers out but have a flaw IMO. The 2-3mm vertical sag/knock when sat on or pushed down on is too much for me. Just that is making me return these, I found it annoying after having 2 9point8 rock solid posts. Otherwise very well thought out and simple to work on if needed. Anyone else run into this?


after using revive valve correctly there has been ZERO give in mine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cunningstunts (Sep 1, 2011)

how do they compare in your experience? that's a lot of high end $eatposts!!


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## jvo (Jun 10, 2006)

cunningstunts said:


> how do they compare in your experience? that's a lot of high end $eatposts!!


I am very impressed with both. Might be the top two out right now. Like anything, pros and cons. Both are very simple to install. 
Bike yoke has smother action, lower stack, much easier to work on (unless you have a problem like mine) and better lever. 
9point8 is solid feeling with no vertical movement, can pick it up from seat anytime with drop lock, better seat install with independent rail and angle adjustment, and comes with more drop lengths ( if you need it).


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## Boner Champ (Mar 31, 2015)

Hey everyone, I have a quick question. I just built up a new 2019 Stumpy 29er with a Revive Max post on there. I only have about 60 miles on the bike so far, but the post accumulates a bit of grease on the stanchion. It seems to be leaking out past the main seal head. Is this typical for a new one and it eventually goes away, or is this a defective post?


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

It's normal.
And eventually it will go away.


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## Boner Champ (Mar 31, 2015)

Thanks, Aglo!


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

jvo said:


> I am very impressed with both. Might be the top two out right now. Like anything, pros and cons. Both are very simple to install.
> Bike yoke has smother action, lower stack, much easier to work on (unless you have a problem like mine) and better lever.
> 9point8 is solid feeling with no vertical movement, can pick it up from seat anytime with drop lock, better seat install with independent rail and angle adjustment, and comes with more drop lengths ( if you need it).





jvo said:


> Wanted to see if any others have this issue. I bought two of these after seeing the Great reviews! Seem like one of the best droppers out but have a flaw IMO. The 2-3mm vertical sag/knock when sat on or pushed down on is too much for me. Just that is making me return these, I found it annoying after having 2 9point8 rock solid posts. Otherwise very well thought out and simple to work on if needed. Anyone else run into this?


Just to explain a little bit more about the minimal "sag", that some posts have:
9Point8 uses a mechaniocal brake, so it will lock in place, if the brake works as it should.
REVIVE is a post hydrulically locked by oil. We do explain this on our website: Oil is compressible, tubes can expand, o-ring seats need to have a little play. If all tolerances and deformations add up, then a post can have minimal sag, when you sit on it. However, that is a very firm sag, and it is not like that fast and easily noticeable saggy feeling, as if air was trapped. It just compresses very very firmly. Let´s say it feels as if you´d try to compress extremely hard rubber or foam. A saddle and even shoes shoes will flex way more than the REVIVE will ever give in due to those points explained.
However, this is phenomenon, all hydraulically locked posts can show: 
Before we came out with our DeHy, I bougth, a brand new Reverb B1, which was "sagging" about 3mm out of the box, at my former company we´ve hadKS LEV integra with the same amount of sag. Some posts have it more, some have it less. 
It depens on how well other posts are bled during production, and it also depends on the pressure, by which the oil is charged. The more more pressure the less you can compress the oil by hand, but more pressure also means more remote force and more force required to move the post itself.

I hope, I could help clearify some questions.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

I finally managed to create a new thread where I try to collect all relevant information about the BikeYoke REVIVE in the very first post.
Check it out and let me know, what you think:
http://forums.mtbr.com/components/b...cks-troubleshooting-1087156.html#post13801314
Goal is to have as much relevant information as possible in just one (the very first) post of the thread, so that one doesn´t have to go through all of it to find answers.

P.S. Does anyone know, if it is possible to not show thumbnails of attachments?


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

That is an incredibly helpful link—thanks!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Thought this could be interesting for many people:

Dropper Seatposts

A guy from a German forum created this great market overview.
I also added this link to the new REVIVE "technical" thread.


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## cornice6 (Aug 23, 2007)

Does anyone have any info on when the 80mm drop will come out (if at all)?



zonoskar said:


> Nobody saw this?
> 
> View attachment 1208451
> 
> ...


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

early December 2018.


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## millerstone (Jun 18, 2018)

This post works amazingly well but it is so damn creaky! I've tried everything but the brass shim. Going to pick up some shim stock tomorrow to try that out but if it doesn't work I'll be selling it and getting something else. I'd rather ride a fixed post than this creaky damn thing, it's driving me nuts. Sounds like it's luck of the draw whether you get a creaky one or not. That being said, my buddy has one and it sounds just like mine. He also has way more vertical play than me (~7mm) even after "reviving" it multiple times.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Have you checked the seat clamp bolts, if they are tightened properly to specified torque?


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## pryde1 (May 27, 2013)

millerstone said:


> This post works amazingly well but it is so damn creaky! I've tried everything but the brass shim. Going to pick up some shim stock tomorrow to try that out but if it doesn't work I'll be selling it and getting something else. I'd rather ride a fixed post than this creaky damn thing, it's driving me nuts. Sounds like it's luck of the draw whether you get a creaky one or not. That being said, my buddy has one and it sounds just like mine. He also has way more vertical play than me (~7mm) even after "reviving" it multiple times.


My creak was coming from within. I had to take it apart clean and re grease and all is good. Very easy to do. Give it a try. I own 3 and only 1 had this issue.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk


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## adagioca (Apr 28, 2004)

I know the service interval is 100 hours but is there really a good reason to perform the service if there are no issues observed? Still working flawless for me. And more of the camp of "Don't fix it if it aint broke". Unless I'm potentially damaging long term longivity...


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## millerstone (Jun 18, 2018)

PeterG said:


> Have you checked the seat clamp bolts, if they are tightened properly to specified torque?


Yep, tried torques ranging from 7Nm to 9Nm. I got some brass shim stock today, I'll chuck a shim in there while I do the internals service. If that doesn't work there will be a cheap 185mm 30.9 seatpost on here.

Update: No luck fixing the creak. Anyone want a cheap post?


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

millerstone said:


> Yep, tried torques ranging from 7Nm to 9Nm. I got some brass shim stock today, I'll chuck a shim in there while I do the internals service. If that doesn't work there will be a cheap 185mm 30.9 seatpost on here.
> 
> Update: No luck fixing the creak. Anyone want a cheap post?


How much for that creaky post in the window?
The one with the creaky noise?


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## bvader (Sep 13, 2009)

adagioca said:


> I know the service interval is 100 hours but is there really a good reason to perform the service if there are no issues observed? Still working flawless for me. And more of the camp of "Don't fix it if it aint broke". Unless I'm potentially damaging long term longivity...


I am in the same boat..

Anyone [email protected] advice?


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

bvader said:


> I am in the same boat..
> 
> Anyone [email protected] advice?


I do the lower service by mileage, every time I do +/-500Km I remove the lower, clean the dust wiper, remove old grease and apply new grease.
You shouldn't wait to have problems to service your seatpost, you service your seatpost to prevent problems.


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## strikeir13 (Sep 23, 2009)

My Revive has creaked inconsistently in the past, and the one thing that usually seems to be the culprit is actually the post in the frame, not the post itself. Whenever I take it out, clean the inside of the seattube, clean the outside of the post lowers, and regrease it before reinserting, that usually solves the problem for me. My seattube has a small vertical cut out on the backside and it's surprising how much debris can get in there and migrate along the length of the post.

The other thing I've done is to remove the seat, clean the rails and the post rail clamps, and reinstall the seat. That both cleans up a potential source of debris as well as ensures the clamps are torqued to the proper value. 

Most of the time, though, it's the first option that seems to be more helpful.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Aglo said:


> I do the lower service by mileage, every time I do +/-500Km I remove the lower, clean the dust wiper, remove old grease and apply new grease.
> You shouldn't wait to have problems to service your seatpost, you service your seatpost to prevent problems.


Perfect answer! I suggest to do the first service not too late after purchase. Maybe after 2-3 months. There is normally no need to replace any parts by then and it takes less than 10 minutes. Really! Cleaing and thoroughly regreasing the lower tube should be enough. This way, you can see, what your post looks like after some use under your conditions and you can re-adjust the time-span to the next service, if allowed. If you do the servie too late, then the post may still work perfectly, but especially the pins might already be contaminated and have started corroding.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Here is some good news for the XC department:














It´s already availble on our website, official press release will follow later this week.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

I've gone through this thread and I'm on the fence between the BikeYoke and the Fox droppers. Between the wife and I we have a bunch of bikes and we've been using 9.8 on all of them so we can swap around if there is an issue. Overall I like the 9.8 dropper but I'm not a fan of how inconsistent they are in cold/wet/dusty/etc. conditions and how much maintenance I've had to do. Recently we picked up a couple Fox droppers and while I'm not 100% happy with it, I'm finding it to be the most consistent and reliable of all the droppers I've owned. Specifically I don't like how slow the return speed is and how much play it has. So, I've got a couple of questions for my fellow dropper journeymen...

How much does cold affect how the dropper operates? For example: I did a ride last night that went from 45 to 35. By the end of the ride my 9.8 was super sluggish, despite maxing out the pressure. This is on a freshly serviced 9.8 straight from 9.8. I read through this thread and noticed there was a "procedure" that had to be done when going from warm to cold. Once that is done is the dropper consistent? At what temps is there a performance change?

How much play is there in the BikeYoke post compared to the 9.8 and other droppers? The Fox has more play than I like but at least it's consistent. I found the 9.8 to be pretty damn solid in that aspect. I noticed that the Thomson develops play fairly quickly that a servicing fixes. 

I read that BikeYoke can get sluggish if crud gets into it and the fix is to remove clip and clean and re-grease. For folks that ride in crap conditions how much of an issue is this? How often are you having to do this servicing? 

Any other comments from riders coming from 9.8 and/or Fox?

For reference I ride a few times a week in the Boston area. This is the time of year when the weather goes nuts and really tests our gear, especially droppers.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

I own 9.8's. They are sitting in my basement. I've been running Bikeyoke for a a year and a half. One 160 and another 185 

How much does cold affect how the dropper operates? No effect, I've rode in temps as low as 10-15 degrees F

How much play is there in the BikeYoke post compared to the 9.8 and other droppers? I've noticed no play, some other people in this thread have, i have not. 

folks that ride in crap conditions how much of an issue is this? Never had an issue, I ride in the slop North East. 9.8 never worked in the same conditions. 

How often are you having to do this servicing? Once in 6 months and I did not need to but did anyway, it's easy.


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## strikeir13 (Sep 23, 2009)

I have not owned the Fox dropper, but when I was researching droppers last year, I asked Fox if they had a temperature range recommendation for the Transfer dropper - they said it wasn't recommended below 32F. I ride in MN so that was a deal-breaker for me. It may not be a hard lower limit, but I would imagine performance is compromised below that level.

I ended up getting the Revive because I could adjust the pressure in the post myself and compensate for cold weather temps. So far, I've only ridden into the 40s, but there have been no issues. I also did a very wet/sloppy/muddy 40-mile MTB race a month ago and the Revive worked flawlessly throughout and since, with no service yet. I'll probably service it myself this winter, and the fact that I can actually do that (vs having to have it serviced by a Fox service center) is another big plus.

Lastly, the Revive also has a pretty short stack height, which meant I could run a 185 dropper in a bike where other droppers might only fit 170. It's only 1.5 cm but there is no reason not to get the longest dropper you can fit in your bike.

I'm happy with my Revive purchase and I don't see that changing anytime soon.


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## Thirsty01 (Jan 13, 2016)

I'm also in the Boston area and I've had my 160 Revive since September, 2017. So far it's been flawless and I've been very happy with it. Side to side play is very minimal and not noticeable at all when riding. I've never had issues with temperature fluctuations. And I use the post almost as often as I shift gears. Recently it did start to feel a bit lazy on the way up, so I finally got around to perform the service. I found the internals to be in good shape overall. The pins were slightly bent from use, which I assume is normal and by design. Replacing these is part of the service anyway. Once serviced, the post now feels as new. I've used a few other droppers on demo and rental bikes, and have always missed my smooth and fast Revive on those rides. I don't think you'll be disappointed if you get this one.



woodyak said:


> For reference I ride a few times a week in the Boston area. This is the time of year when the weather goes nuts and really tests our gear, especially droppers.


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

Has anyone done the dust wiper service? I can't find a video.

I clean all my stanchions before every ride--including my Revive's--and I service my Revive 160mm whenever the stanchion exhibits no signs of grease on it, which is about every 3-4 months, or about every 150-200 hours.

My Revive is 1 year and 3 months old, so today I decided to do the dust wiper service. I got the kit from Universal Cycles, but I was a little confused by the new parts. My Revive has a split white ring that goes on top of the brass rods, and then a silver washer goes on top of the white ring, and then I attach the small circle clip on top of the silver washer.

The service kit comes with a dust wiper, 6 brass rods, a foam washer, and what looks like a plastic cap, which you can see in the image here:

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=94828

I think the plastic cap is supposed to take the place of the white ring and the sliver washer. The combination of the white ring and the silver washer is like a cap. The plastic cap was much easier to install than the white ring, and I omitted the silver washer. Was that correct?

My Revive has been completely reliable--except for the 2-by remote. The 2-by remote snaps the cable about every 1-2 months. I've been in contact with Sacki about the remote, and he immediately offered to send me a new remote, but we decided that I would first try to file the edges on my original remote where the cable runs over it. So far that hasn't worked. If it snaps again, I'm going to take Sacki up on his offer--but I'm not sure whether that will cure anything. The edges of the 2-by remote need to have a smooth radius not a square edge. As far as I know, I'm the only one with a 2-by remote.

Oh yeah, I've never had to use the revive feature.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

What is 2by remote?


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Please don´t forget this thread here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/components/b...cks-troubleshooting-1087156.html#post13801314
I try to keep all information up to date, as good as I can.
Explosion drawings and service videos are also included.

P.S. The links to all the videos and drawings can also be found on our website.

Regarding the quqestion about the "plastic cap" and "white ring". Those parts are the lower bushing. 
As can be seen on the explosion drawing, we´ve made ring+washer into one piece during a running change in production.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

Sacki, you guys make excellent stuff.


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

sacki said:


> Regarding the question about the "plastic cap" and "white ring". Those parts are the lower bushing.
> As can be seen on the explosion drawing, we´ve made ring+washer into one piece during a running change in production.


Thanks for the quick response, sacki! Okay. I sussed things out correctly. If anyone is having trouble finding the part on the diagram: if you look at the portion where the brass rods are depicted, above and to the right is a rectangular box that says:



> Note:
> running change:
> #41 (white plastic split ring) + #42 (silver washer) = old
> #57 (plastic cap) = new





> Please don´t forget this thread here:
> http://forums.mtbr.com/components/b...cks-troubleshooting-1087156.html#post13801314
> I try to keep all information up to date, as good as I can.
> Explosion drawings and service videos are also included.
> ...


I still can't find a service video for replacing the dust wiper, etc. I have enough experience servicing my Fox 36 that I just followed a similar procedure, e.g. jab the old dust wiper with a pick to remove, no slick honey on outside edge of new dust wiper.

Edit: Okay, this link claims to be the "full service" video:






but it looks exactly the same as the animated basic service video.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Not sure how or why you can´t find the video, because it is embedded literally in the first post of the neighbour thread, which I linked in my last post. 
Did you really check out that thread? It is very helpful!

Anyway, here is a direct link to the video:





Cheers
Sacki


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

127.0.0.1 said:


> Sacki, you guys make excellent stuff.


Thank you very much! We just try our best, making things, that we really would like to see on our own bikes. So we have absolut confidence in what we are offering. We still keep finding little things to improve, but I think the overall package is pretty OK.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Just stumbled over this on facebook and I was super excited and pleasently surprised, because I must admit, that I haven´t heard of OutdoorGearLab before:

OutdoorGearLab - Dropper Shootout
OutDoorGearLab - single review

It is even more interesting and exciting, because I believe, that is is the most independent and at the same most elaborate review of our REVIVE, that I have seen so far.
Also, apparently they buy all their reviewed products incognito for regular retail prices, as they explain here:
https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/about
https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/faq

Super stoked to see this outstanding outcome of this test!
Even if, I am a little bit confused by the weight score, as other, shorter, but at the same time heavier posts (e.g. e13), score higher than the REVIVE.


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

sacki said:


> Anyway, here is a direct link to the video:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


sacki,

That service video has been out since before I bought my Revive, and I always watch it before I service my post, and I believe that service video was out before you even offered service kits because you stated in some post somewhere that we wouldn't need service kits for quite awhile.

As I said in my previous post,



> I still can't find a service video for replacing the dust wiper, etc.


Nowhere in that video does it show the dust wiper being replaced. Do you really expect someone who has never serviced a post or fork or shock to know how to replace the dust wiper?

In my opinion, it would be helpful if you made an additional service video where the mechanic opens up a dust wiper service kit containing the dust wiper, brass rods, plastic cap, and foam ring and then replaces all those parts on the post.

When I replaced the dust wiper on my post, I had to suss out that the plastic cap was a replacement for the white plastic ring plus the silver washer. No beginning (or at least one experienced!) mechanic is going to think to dig through a parts diagram in the hopes that there is some note about a running production change.


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## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

sacki said:


> Just stumbled over this on facebook and I was super excited and pleasently surprised, because I must admit, that I haven´t heard of OutdoorGearLab before:
> 
> OutdoorGearLab - Dropper Shootout
> OutDoorGearLab - single review
> ...


You should be stoked. Outdoor GearLab tests are great, and I often consult them on lots of gear decisions. Congrats.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

I have to agree with *happyriding* on this, anybody that's used to service his/hers suspension will be able to clean/replace the dust wiper and the bushing, but first timers may be a little lost at how and what to do.
Same with the new lower bushing.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

happyriding said:


> sacki,
> 
> That service video has been out since before I bought my Revive, and I always watch it before I service my post, and I believe that service video was out before you even offered service kits because you stated in some post somewhere that we wouldn't need service kits for quite awhile.
> 
> ...





Aglo said:


> I have to agree with *happyriding* on this, anybody that's used to service his/hers suspension will be able to clean/replace the dust wiper and the bushing, but first timers may be a little lost at how and what to do.
> Same with the new lower bushing.


I am a little confused now.
I totally understand, that it would be awesome to have a shot of every single step, preferably as close up, and not missing a single detail, while always being completely up to date regarding possible recent running changes in the design.
I am sorry, but we just can not manage this.

I would further like to explain: Yes, the service of our REVIVE is super simple, and basically everyone, who has not two left hands, can do this.
BUT: We explicitely mention in the manual and on our website and in the service documentation .pdfs, that working on a suspension product should only be performend by an authorized mechanic or one, that knows, what he is doing. 
We do this for certain reasons: We want to avoid customer getting frustrated and also we want to avoid us getting frustrated. 
As someone, who has worked in bike-service for years, I can tell stories, that you won´t believe customer have done wrong - things, that we, as experienced bike mechanics could not even think could go wrong.

At this point, I must say, that I have a hard time, grasping, that we are talking about it being unclear, how to remove a dust wiper from a tube. You use your index finger and thumb to grap the wiper and then pull it out of its seat. That takes one second. 
This is, what Happyriding is asking for. The rest, what he mentions (replacement of brass rods, plastic cap, foam ring) is actually shown in the video.
So, if I am correct, were are really tonly alking about how to take out a wiper from a tube here, right?
If someone does not know thow to remove a wiper from its seat, (especially, when he has a new wiper in his hands already and knows what it looks like), then he should probably not work on a highly pressurized suspension product in the first place (see my "BUT" explanation above).

About the running change: As explained, we are not capable of making new videos after every single revision. However, this revision is CLEARLY decribed on the explosion drawings, that we provide. 
Maybe we could have mentioned this revision on a small paper of the spare parts kit, but I also want to be clear about that this is cost and work, tat would (if we break this down to every product of ours) will add up in a lot of work and cost, and this will add to the product cost itself to the customer.
We´ve also made this bushing change long time ago, and I think this is maybe the third or fourth time, that someone has asked about this part. The rest of the people who bought a service kit (>250pc in 2018) apparently had no problem or checked the explosion drawing.

This may sound a little harsh, and I actually don´t want to sound like that (English is not my native tounge). We Germans use to be straight forward, so forgive my, if you may get it the wrong way. 
I do not mean to offend, I just want to make my points as clear as possible:

Long story short:
Someone who is working on a seatpost, should know, what he is doing. Our videos are only a guide and by no means they aim to be cover every single detail. We even mention this is in the video description.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

sacki said:


> (...)
> This may sound a little harsh, and I actually don´t want to sound like that (English is not my native tounge). We Germans use to be straight forward, so forgive my, if you may get it the wrong way.
> I do not mean to offend, I just want to make my points as clear as possible:
> 
> ...


It didn't cross my mind as you being harsh, and I completely agree that you, as in the BikeYoke representative, should use a clear and concise way of exposing your point.

That being said, you do have a point and it makes sense to be that way. I just assumed that everyone that owns a Revive would be doing the lower service himself, because of how simple and how fast it is, instead of sending it to service. I forgot that not everyone should be doing it, or want to be doing it.

Thanks for taking the time to write you post.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

I posted earlier and I thank all who replied. I picked up a post last week and I am happy. Here is a quick-ish write up...

Install process was pretty straight forward. I've installed Fox, 9.8, Lev, Reverb, etc. and this post install was most similar to the Lev, mostly because their connector is similar, if not identical. I was very happy about the cable length markings on the post. That usually is kind of a best guess for me. I did have an issue on my first ride with the cable slipping out, but I chalk that up to not cranking it down tight enough. I have a couple rides after re-doing it and no more slippage. I also had issues getting max psi using a standard shock pump. I'd pump it up to 260 and when I undid things it'd go down to 200. I tried it several times and couldn't get it any better. A 2 step shock pump would be necessary to get max pressure. I like a fast post and 200 psi is about perfect so no big deal. After the install I bled it mostly because I wanted to learn how to do it. I didn't have to. 

Rotational and side to side slop is on par with the 9.8. Which I like. I haven't felt a more solid post than those 2. Ride-wise it's as smooth as it gets. I find it to be as smooth as my new Fox transfer and way smoother than the 9.8, which can be a tad notchy. I took it out on a sloppy day between 30 and 40 degrees and didn't notice any performance differences between when freshly installed in a 60 degree house and at the end of a 4 hour ride in slop and cold weather. Very impressed. To compare I did a 4+ hour ride yesterday with a brand new Fox and it was round 40 to 50 and wet and sloppy and it instantly wasn't returning well. I had to manhandle it to get it work at times. Overall I'm pretty happy and plan to put it through its paces this winter.


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## gent96 (Jul 7, 2012)

Hello, all. I got my Revive for about two months now. It works great and is by far my most reliable post (I have a Rockshox Reverb, KS Integra and a Fox Transfer posts). However, it creaks a lot. I already applied carbon paste on the seat clamps but it still creaks. Any ideas on how to eliminate the noise? TIA!


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Again the hint from me to the neighbouring thread. All relevant information and feedback shall tried to be collected there in the very first post. That´s why I created it, so no one needs to go through the whole thread here. 
Did you check there?

http://forums.mtbr.com/components/b...cks-troubleshooting-1087156.html#post13801314

First of all:
Please never use carbon paste on saddle rails. Usually, Carbon paste does not help with creaking. In most of the cases it will make it even worse or it can even cause the creaking in the first place. That also counts for seattubes and seatposts. A properly reamed seatube does not require any carbon/friction paste. I´ve always used very thick/heavy grease inside my seattubes (steel, aluminium, carbon). Not to reduce creaking, but to help prevent water from entering the frame and cause corrosion. I´ve always fared very well doing so, never had creaking posts or saddles. I also used to grease saddle clamps and bolts in the past. Now I´m doing that not so much anymore, as I try to test "dry", just as we suggest to our customers.

Check for clear bolt shafts, as I explain in the linked thread and also check for proper torque. The bolts can also hold more than 7Nm. I´ve tested mine with up to 10Nm, but will not guarantee for that.


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## gent96 (Jul 7, 2012)

Thanks for the prompt reply, sacki. Will check the other thread for solutions.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Just to be clear! There´s a lot of helpful informaiton in this thread here, too. 
Lot´s of DIY tipps, that I highly value and appreciate.
The thing is just, that is is not very easy to find something, that you knew was there, in a thread that is getting longer and longer.
That´s why I created a new thread, with me being the first poster. This allows me to collect new information and keep the first post up to date at all times. Ideally you can the find answers to all possible questions on the first page. At least that is my idea. So if everyone could move to that thread, so it becomes the "main thread" about REVIVE it would be very helpful.


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## gent96 (Jul 7, 2012)

That is a great scheme in a forum actually: you make your first post a live, running post where you update it with new solutions to issues. This way, Revive users, especially those who don't have enough time on their hands (plus the lazy ones ), do not have to scroll through multiple posts just find answers. 

I appreciate your hard work here, sacki. It is a rare gem in any industry to have a great product and even greater customer service. I will try to follow your solution regarding the creaking.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Exactly that is the idea. 
Thanks for the appreciation! That´s what we´re doing it for.


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

> First of all:
> Please never use carbon paste on saddle rails. Usually, Carbon paste does not help with creaking. In most of the cases it will make it even worse or it can even cause the creaking in the first place. In most of the cases it will make it even worse or it can even cause the creaking in the first place. That also counts for seattubes and seatposts. A properly reamed seatube does not require any carbon/friction paste.


Yet, on p. 15 of my Bikeyoke Revive manual it says:



> Always use suitable friction paste on contacting faces between seatpost and seat tube in order to reduce required clamping forces.


If you haven't already, the manual needs changing.


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## waldog (Nov 4, 2005)

happyriding said:


> Yet, on p. 15 of my Bikeyoke Revive manual it says:
> 
> If you haven't already, the manual needs changing.


Saddle rails aren't a seat post or seat tube....


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

waldog said:


> Saddle rails aren't a seat post or seat tube....


Yet, sacki said:


> That also counts for seattubes and seatposts.


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## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

I can't see any reason why not using a friction paste at a seatpost body/seat tube (not for rails!). It's a thing a friction paste is designed for.

*sacki*, it seems a good idea to have a noticeable "front" (or just a small arrow) mark at each half of the saddle clamp. It will help to maintain the right orientation. Currently it's not absolutely clear...


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

accordnick said:


> *sacki*, it seems a good idea to have a noticeable "front" (or just a small arrow) mark at each half of the saddle clamp. It will help to maintain the right orientation. Currently it's not absolutely clear...


I agree on this...it is not exactly clear and currently mine is backwards (but post seems fine and all, no issues) I pondered the correct orientation, looks at pics on the web, and still ended up wrong


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

IIRC the manual was clear about the clamp orientation..but the lack of setback in riser posts is annoying for regular size/non-short riders..I installed mine in the "more setback position" w/ saddle slammed all the way back..been on the 185mm since it came out, going to file the hole a bit, put a new bolt and keep going. Mine has never creaked, rock solid post w/ regular slickoleum


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

happyriding said:


> Yet, on p. 15 of my Bikeyoke Revive manual it says:
> 
> If you haven't already, the manual needs changing.


The manual has changed a while ago.



accordnick said:


> I can't see any reason why not using a friction paste at a seatpost body/seat tube (not for rails!). It's a thing a friction paste is designed for.
> 
> *sacki*, it seems a good idea to have a noticeable "front" (or just a small arrow) mark at each half of the saddle clamp. It will help to maintain the right orientation. Currently it's not absolutely clear...


The reason, why we do not suggest to use frition paste is mainly optical. Your setpost will make micro-movements in your seattube. Friction paste acts like sandpaper and rub off the protecting anodization. From all the carbon, aluminium, steel frames, that I´ve owned over the course of the past 15 years, I can say, that they never needed friction paste to properly clamp any seatpost.
Howver, using thick grease helps to keep water out and also protects metal tubes from corrosion.

Will note the idea with the mark for the saddle clamp for future productions. Thanks for that.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Deerhill said:


> ..but the lack of setback in riser posts is annoying for regular size/non-short riders..


That really leaves me confused. Taller riders in particular are suffering from "modern" frame designs with steep virtual seattube angles, but at the same time offset seattubes with a much slacker actual seattube angle.
This frame designs can be seen on various YT, Scott and Trek models for instance. The actual seattube angle is similar or even slacker than the head tube angle. 
The means, that taller riders, who need to extend the seatpost very far, will get a very slack effective seattube angle and are sitting and pedalling from way back -> Not efficient!
In Germany we have a couple of magazines with really tall reviewers and this is acutally a point that is often critizised. The pedalling position is just not good for tall riders.
You are actually the first "tall" rider complaining about a non-existing offset option.
Usually it is the other way around: Smaller riders tend to sit too far to the front when the post is slammed very deep inside the frame.


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## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

sacki said:


> The reason, why we do not suggest to use frition paste is mainly optical. Your setpost will make micro-movements in your seattube. Friction paste acts like sandpaper and rub off the protecting anodization. From all the carbon, aluminium, steel frames, that I´ve owned over the course of the past 15 years, I can say, that they never needed friction paste to properly clamp any seatpost.
> Howver, using thick grease helps to keep water out and also protects metal tubes from corrosion.


With a friction paste you can apply lower torque to seat clamp. It seems a good especially with adjustable seat post... I never use a grease for a seat tube because a seat easily turns after each crash.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Right! Exactly!
And just to let you know: A turned saddle after every crash is a very good thing!
If the post could not rotate during an impact, all the load/torque would go into the post´s head, which is very very bad.
For the same exact reason, you should also secure your brake and shift levers just tight enough, so they don´t slip during normal use. During a crash your levers should be abel to move/rotate.


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## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

*sacki*, it's a very good addition about impacts. You are ablolutely right, I also try not to overtight a seat clamp and levers/shifters. But with a paste you can apply a much less torque to bolts with the same result. Otherwise using a grease may cause a lot of force required to properly fix a seatpost. I had a bike with greased seat tube (I guess a mechanic at the bike shop applied it) and I had been not able to fix a seat properly at all until I removed a grease with solvent... seat was going down all the time - during regular riding, no crashes. Since I never use a grease for seat posts. )


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

In my experience, a seatpost can only not be clamped properly, if the seattube is manufactured way out of tolerance. I´ve seen 30.9 seatubes reamed to 31.2~31.3mm.
Needless to say, that it requires a lot of torque to hold the post in position. How to keep the post quiet in such an "oversize" seattube is another question.
Properly reamed seattubes will clamp easily with applied grease.
Anyway, I am just giving my honest opinion based on my experiences:
Grease has always worked fine for me with all my frames. It helps keep things clean, quiet and I´ve never had problems with squeezed tubes and slow posts due to higher require clamping forces.
With carbon paste I´ve not only had good experiences: Over time, the grains contained in the paste, can rub off the black anodizing color. The paste can dry out and even cause he post to get stuck inside the seattube.
That is why I suggest to go without paste and use grease instead.
You go do what you feel is right, but don´t complain afterwards.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Like Sacki, I also use a grease (very thin layer of Motorex/Manitou Prep M) for my seatposts in last ca. 20 years without a single issue . I hate damaged seatpost anodization from friction paste and water (electro corrosion). If the seatpost and frame tube diameters are correct, there is no excessive force required.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

sacki said:


> That really leaves me confused. Taller riders in particular are suffering from "modern" frame designs with steep virtual seattube angles, but at the same time offset seattubes with a much slacker actual seattube angle.
> This frame designs can be seen on various YT, Scott and Trek models for instance. The actual seattube angle is similar or even slacker than the head tube angle.
> The means, that taller riders, who need to extend the seatpost very far, will get a very slack effective seattube angle and are sitting and pedalling from way back -> Not efficient!
> In Germany we have a couple of magazines with really tall reviewers and this is acutally a point that is often critizised. The pedalling position is just not good for tall riders.
> ...


No doubt seat tubes are like you said these days, I'm hardly ever sitting anyway..well, at least not sitting more than ~80% of my weight at times on trailz..my comment above was more about frameset's that do place the rider closer to the bottom bracket / steeper than ever STA's.

Good point on the too far back position being inefficient..Definitely a much wider variety of seat tube angle/ configuration's out there than ever on L & XL full suspension bikes, add the variety of L/XL hardtail's into the mix and the actual saddle location relative to the bottom bracket ends up all over the map.

I'm glad you made the 185mm option, some will say the extra travel is not need, tell them to f-off!!


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

accordnick said:


> With a friction paste you can apply lower torque to seat clamp. It seems a good especially with adjustable seat post... I never use a grease for a seat tube because a seat easily turns after each crash.


This, and I've found with most modern frames and dropper posts that friction paste is needed, because using the suggested clamp force results in a post that won't even stay in place when you are riding moderately, and of course tightening further damages the post. I don't know if this is simply ALL frames and dropper posts these days, but it's been constant for me for 6 frames now (since I started using dropper posts). I find the chances of all of my frames being reamed over-size to be fairly small. Grease just doesn't cut it and makes the issue worse. The Achilles Heel of dropper posts is that you can't increase the torque at the collar, because you damage the internals and they stop returning. The only option you are left with is friction paste, but luckily it works pretty well.

With solid metal or carbon posts it seems you can torque these further and keep them from slipping, but the same still applies, you can torque them less if you use friction paste.

For that, I'm sold on it, well, it's really the only way my bikes can work, but just like any other part, you don't want to make it overly tight, you want it to rotate in a crash rather than break, no arguments there.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

I've used Castrol Molub Alloy Paste White T - this is anti-fretting compound that is used when components do not need to move (e.g. for mounting bearings). It is very thick and sticky stuff. Before that I also used carbon friction paste.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Thanks for the tip, Castrol Molub specification looks perfect to me for use with seatpost.


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## Cleaner (Mar 23, 2004)

*Non abrasive carbon assembly paste*

This product will increase the friction without abrasive particles and is safe for aluminum and carbon. I have been using it for two years with an black anodized post in a carbon frame, no scratching is visible with the eye on the post.

https://www.backcountry.com/motorex-carbon-paste


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

Does anyone know if the 31.6 x 160mm BikeYoke revive fit a medium Santa Cruz 5010 v2? Have tried searching and can't seem to get an answer.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

007 said:


> Does anyone know if the 31.6 x 160mm BikeYoke revive fit a medium Santa Cruz 5010 v2? Have tried searching and can't seem to get an answer.


Not exactly what you're asking, but I can slam it in a medium Nomad v3 (if I needed to).


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

007 said:


> Does anyone know if the 31.6 x 160mm BikeYoke revive fit a medium Santa Cruz 5010 v2? Have tried searching and can't seem to get an answer.


What's the distance from the seat rails to the center of the bottom bracket with your current seat post fully extended? 
What post is it? Can you slam your current post all the way in your frame?


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

ac1000 said:


> What's the distance from the seat rails to the center of the bottom bracket with your current seat post fully extended?
> What post is it? Can you slam your current post all the way in your frame?


It's an A1 Reverb with 150mm drop, and yes it can be fully inserted to the collar without issue. I'd have to measure the distance from the rails to the BB though.

The BikeYoke is 27mm longer (467mm) than the Reverb (440mm) according to websites. Right now, I run the Reverb a couple inches out of the frame


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

467mm is the length of the REVIVE *including* the actuator unit:







If you take this lenght, you´d also have to refer to the corresponding lenght on the Reverb. Otherwise you are comparing apples to pears. Usually you´d have to add quite a bit more than 27mm to the said 440mm on the Reverb, especially if you have the Connectamajig quick connector:







Santa Cruz´s have a straight seattube on the Carbon 5010s, so I do not think you really need worry about maximum insertion depth with a 160mm REVIVE on a medium 5010 carbon.


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

007 said:


> It's an A1 Reverb with 150mm drop, and yes it can be fully inserted to the collar without issue. I'd have to measure the distance from the rails to the BB though.
> 
> The BikeYoke is 27mm longer (467mm) than the Reverb (440mm) according to websites. Right now, I run the Reverb a couple inches out of the frame


From that info it will fit great.


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

007 said:


> It's an A1 Reverb with 150mm drop, and yes it can be fully inserted to the collar without issue. I'd have to measure the distance from the rails to the BB though.
> 
> The BikeYoke is 27mm longer (467mm) than the Reverb (440mm) according to websites. Right now, I run the Reverb a couple inches out of the frame


Fwiw, I just converted from a 150mm reverb in my L santacruz hightower to a 185mm revive. I had the reverb at about 2.25" from bottom of reverb collar to top of seat tube. Because of how low profile the seat rail clamp and the collar are on the revive, the 185mm bike yoke fits in nearly the same space as the 150mm reverb.

I ca n say with confidence, that the 160mm revive will fit in any space the 150mm reverb will, and with more room to spare.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

In the neighbouring thread I´ve already shared this link in the opening post.
It is really pretty helpful:
Dropper Seatposts

Cheers
Sacki


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

*Winter time is service time!*

*GREAT NEWS FOR ALL OUR AMERICAN REVIVE OWNERS
*
Our US service partner, the guys from Dirtlabs, are offering a funky special deal on two different REVIVE service packages during the cold time of the year.


*Lower tube service, $35** - includes lower tube clean and regrease + lower bushing + pin + foam ring + wiper replacement (save $15)


*Full service, $60** - includes Lower tube service + hydraulic cartridge rebuild with complete seal replacement (save $30)
Add $5 on the full service and you get a Microvalve upgrade for your 1st gen REVIVE

*offer is valid until 2019/01/31, shipping cost and taxes are not included, offer can not be combined with any other deals/offers

If you are interested, get in touch with the guys from Dirtlabs directly via e-mail [email protected] or by visiting their website www.dirtlabs.com to have your REVIVE prepared and ready for combat in the spring time.

Here is a direct link to their service form:
https://www.dirtlabs.com/get-service-individuals-form/

We wish you a great weekend!
Your BikeYoke and Dirtlabs team


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## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

sacki said:


> *GREAT NEWS FOR ALL OUR AMERICAN REVIVE OWNERS
> *
> Our US service partner, the guys from Dirtlabs, are offering a funky special deal on two different REVIVE service packages during the cold time of the year.
> 
> ...


Very cool, thank you. I will be doing this.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Might be interesting for you guys as well:

https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/squeezy.html
https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/willy.html


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

sacki said:


> Might be interesting for you guys as well:
> 
> https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/squeezy.html
> https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/willy.html


well, there you go again with your 'innovation'

top notch, good work


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> Might be interesting for you guys as well:
> 
> https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/squeezy.html
> https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/willy.html


zis iz willy kool'
)


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Some news for the folks:

https://bikerumor.com/2018/12/31/bi...opper-wrap-your-willy-flip-a-longer-triggy-x/


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

007 said:


> It's an A1 Reverb with 150mm drop, and yes it can be fully inserted to the collar without issue. I'd have to measure the distance from the rails to the BB though.
> 
> The BikeYoke is 27mm longer (467mm) than the Reverb (440mm) according to websites. Right now, I run the Reverb a couple inches out of the frame


I am very happy to report that the 160mm Revive a) fits and b) works amazingly well, relatively to the Reverb it replaced. I am very pleased.

A few rides in now, and I've noted that after every ride, there is a noticeable layer of grease on the seat post stanchion. It collects a fair bit of dust/dirt over the course of a ride. It seems to be dissipating somewhat, but still evident over after nearly 100 miles. Is this normal? Will it go away?


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

007 said:


> I am very happy to report that the 160mm Revive a) fits and b) works amazingly well, relatively to the Reverb it replaced. I am very pleased.
> 
> A few rides in now, and I've noted that after every ride, there is a noticeable layer of grease on the seat post stanchion. It collects a fair bit of dust/dirt over the course of a ride. It seems to be dissipating somewhat, but still evident over after nearly 100 miles. Is this normal? Will it go away?


This is just excess grease from assembling. It should become less but never get fully dry either. The re should always be a small amount of grease showing. Once there is no more grease at all, you may want to do a lower service.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

A small amount of grease is a good thing, as it keeps the seals moist.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

happyriding said:


> I serviced my Revive for the first time. I stopped noticing any excess grease at the top of my post after a ride, so I decided to crack open my post and regrease. I used Slick Honey to grease the internals.
> 
> Some tips:
> 
> ...


Has anyone found a 7 mm wrench that actually fits under the wrench flat on the shaft? I have a standard 7 mm wrench and I don't know where to find anything smaller. This is making working on the post supremely frustrating. have already somewhat mangled the shaft around the wrench flat trying to use needle-nose pliers

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

DriverB said:


> Has anyone found a 7 mm wrench that actually fits under the wrench flat on the shaft? I have a standard 7 mm wrench and I don't know where to find anything smaller. This is making working on the post supremely frustrating. have already somewhat mangled the shaft around the wrench flat trying to use needle-nose pliers
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0791VM69F/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

Andeh said:


> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0791VM69F/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Bingo thank you 

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

DriverB said:


> Has anyone found a 7 mm wrench that actually fits under the wrench flat on the shaft? I have a standard 7 mm wrench and I don't know where to find anything smaller. This is making working on the post supremely frustrating. have already somewhat mangled the shaft around the wrench flat trying to use needle-nose pliers
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


I took my calipers to the hardware store and was able to find something, but it's not as easy as it sounds to find a skinny 7mm wrench in the US.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Actually I have never had any issues with any of my wrenches. I just checked two 7mm wrenches from different brands out of my personal tool box:
One measures 4.13mm, the other one measures 3.96mm. Both work perfectly fine. I am not sure, but I don´t think, that wrenches are generally thicker in the US than here. We do have 3 service centers in the US, and (as far as I remeber) none of them reported any issues regarding their tools. 
We did have a slightly smaller wrench face on only the very first production batches, but had a running change immediately. Again, no problem there with any of our own tools. Never heard of this issue from another of our distributors or service centers either, so it might just be unlucky conincidence here.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

Found a wrench finally that fits and the rest of the service is a piece of cake. The unusually small size of the wrench flat is so far my only critique of this post after a year and that ain't bad. I'm not sure why they don't just make the rent flat bigger maybe it's a design issue

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

You can adress me directly. ;-)
Again: We have had maybe a handful of customers who reported a not-fitting 7mm wrench. 
The wrench face is not unusually small, a standard 7mm wrench WILL fit, but there are probably always some tools to find, that are bigger than normal. 
And yes, we do have good reasons for not having the wrench face longer, as you don't want the wrench face get inside the sealhead at full bottom out and damage the seal, do you?


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

For all those who are interested:
https://nsmb.com/articles/bikeyoke-revive-dropper-post-reviewed/


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## vazzwells (Jan 8, 2015)

Has anyone sourced replacement hydrualic fluid for their BikeYoke Revive dropper? If so what did you source? I recall reading somewhere online that the manufacturer uses Mobil DTE 10 Excel 15, but that's proving hard to source online, and I can't see it listed in any of the small parts on retailer websites.

Whilst dismanteled, I stupidly forgot to put the air-valve cover back on before using the reset function and lost a heap of fluid.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

DriverB said:


> Has anyone found a 7 mm wrench that actually fits under the wrench flat on the shaft? I have a standard 7 mm wrench and I don't know where to find anything smaller. This is making working on the post supremely frustrating. have already somewhat mangled the shaft around the wrench flat trying to use needle-nose pliers
> ...


I did the service yesterday, my standard Cr-Mo 6/7mm wrench key from tool box is 3.7mm thick and fits well, no problems.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

vazzwells said:


> Has anyone sourced replacement hydrualic fluid for their BikeYoke Revive dropper? If so what did you source? I recall reading somewhere online that the manufacturer uses Mobil DTE 10 Excel 15, but that's proving hard to source online, and I can't see it listed in any of the small parts on retailer websites.
> 
> Whilst dismanteled, I stupidly forgot to put the air-valve cover back on before using the reset function and lost a heap of fluid.


C'mon, use search..
Similar viscosity from other brands..

https://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-info-tipps-tricks-troubleshooting-1087156.html


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Once again the link to the neighbouring thread:

http://forums.mtbr.com/components/bi...l#post13801314


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## vazzwells (Jan 8, 2015)

ka81ua said:


> C'mon, use search..
> Similar viscosity from other brands..
> 
> https://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-info-tipps-tricks-troubleshooting-1087156.html


C'mon read the Q! Thanks for posting the info I already detailed in my post and not actually answering where it can be sourced.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

All those files and documents and videos can be found on our website in any REVIVE´s article description under "MAINTENANCE":
https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/seatpost-revive-125-31-6.html
I am not asking this in a sarcastic way now. This is a serious question and I would like to know you honest opinion:
Is that hard to find? 
I am asking, because it seems to me, that it is either hard to find, or people do not try to search the manufacturer´s website for infirmation. I am always trying to offer detailed infos to a certain extend, but I am also happy to hear, how we can improve.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

it is _somewhat_ hard to find, yes.

you could add a new link at the top of the main page, possibly
next to spare parts, named support, and that will list all things you have maintenance/support/manuals

yes it will duplicate links on the site, but will make the site better

---


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> All those files and documents and videos can be found on our website in any REVIVE´s article description under "MAINTENANCE":
> https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/seatpost-revive-125-31-6.html
> I am not asking this in a sarcastic way now. This is a serious question and I would like to know you honest opinion:
> Is that hard to find?
> I am asking, because it seems to me, that it is either hard to find, or people do not try to search the manufacturer´s website for infirmation. I am always trying to offer detailed infos to a certain extend, but I am also happy to hear, how we can improve.


''SUPPORT'' and "CONTACT'' links MUST always be in header.php!


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

vazzwells said:


> C'mon read the Q! Thanks for posting the info I already detailed in my post and not actually answering where it can be sourced.





> Similar viscosity from other brands.


 - isn't it an answer?

Or you don't want to look through specifications of existing oil and just want somebody to name particular names of oils?


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Is that fake or original, 160mm "Revive" with Triggy lever for only 109.99 eur (with RCZ discount code)? If original, even sold out yet, I would be interested, how is such low price possible (29% of original price)...


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

I would be extremely careful with those kind of deals. We have never seen one of our posts at this webshop and we have never sold anything to them. I have also never bought from this webshop. 
About this specific post: 
1. It is definitely NOT an aftermarket product
2. Offered for this crazy low price, even we would lose money. I don´t want to jump to conclusions, but no one with a reasonable mindset would offer a post, that was purchased in an offical way, for a price way lower, than what it was bought for - a BikeYoke REVIVE in particular.
3. The post as shown on this picture is a way outdated version, and I can not even be sure, if it a series production or pre-series sample.

If you know someone who did, or if you have bought one yourself from this webshop, please immediately get in touch with us and we will replace the post for a latest version.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

I did few purchases from this webshop in the past. In my opinion this shop looks like they specialize in the offer of selling outlet parts for bargain (crazy prices sometimes) or batch orders from main stocks/manufacturers (delivery time from few weeks to few months).
No, I don't know anybody who bought that post. As far as I am concerned, I ordered one for myself from your page .
Btw, RCZ link to Revive post no longer works .


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

I know the company behind RCZ very well. They are not really to blame for how they are doing business. Well, maybe besides the fact, that they are using copyrighted photo material in their webshop. Those pictures, that you can see in the screenshot, above are copyrighted and I am almost sure that the company who owns them already knows.
The companies, who are actually to blame for, are the ones who they get their products from. I can speak for our REVIVEs. Those REVIVEs offered at RCZ are not aftermarket products, they are very likely not even from 2019 or 2018, but maybe even from 2017 or 2016 or even pre-production samples/protytypes, which are for testing and/or dispaly only. There is not even our package included. 
That´s why I am reacting so urgently! I want to make sure for the good of the customers, who bought them, that they really do get what they paid for.
And the rest I will take care of properly.


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## HoJo (Jan 26, 2004)

Saki, 
First a complement, best post I've ever used. For 4 mons been running a 185 revive on my Ibis Ripmo. Liked it so much I bought a 160 revive for my other bike.

question I have noticed a small amount of oil seeping out of the bottom of my 185 post.
Just enough that it runs down the cable. Post is acting fine. Normal? Need service? 
Thanks 
Hojo


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Hi Hojo,

If it really is oil, it should not be normal. However, as long as the post is working fine, it might just liquified grease/water mix. Oil loss will result in a squishy post eventually. Keep using the post but keep an eye on any development of squishyness.
Please shoot us an e-mail, if you should experience and troubles.

[email protected]


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## HoJo (Jan 26, 2004)

Sacki I have emailed you a couple of times about my oil leaking post please reach out to me
Hojo


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Hi Hojo,

I´ve already replied to your e-mail from March 29, but will re-send the e-mail. Did you check your Spam folder?

Cheers
Sacki


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## Verbl Kint (Feb 14, 2013)

About to buy a 160mm for my newly purchased Kona Process 153 29 (medium with 410mm seat tube length). I'm 168cm tall (5'6") with a 73 cm inseam (29 inches). 

My estimate is that the length is just perfect but since I'm getting the post via mail order, I hope someone can tell me if getting the 160mm is bad idea for a little guy like me.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Im 181 with 83 inseam, 160 fits perfect to me, but, feel like if I would be little bit lower - I would need smaller dropper.
So, I would choose 125 on your place.
Butr actualy it's easy to find out - just measure everything with normal usual seatpost, how high can it be from collar clamp to your ... )



















So, most important for you is:
160 travel has 202 mm
125 travel has 167 mm


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Verbl Kint said:


> About to buy a 160mm for my newly purchased Kona Process 153 29 (medium with 410mm seat tube length). I'm 168cm tall (5'6") with a 73 cm inseam (29 inches).
> 
> My estimate is that the length is just perfect but since I'm getting the post via mail order, I hope someone can tell me if getting the 160mm is bad idea for a little guy like me.


I'm a hair under 5'8", 30" inseam. I ride a medium Sentinel (400mm STL), and have quite a bit of my 160mm Revive seat post exposed, maybe 3".

I agree you should measure the distance from the center of your BB to center of rails on your current bike setup. Then compare that against 410mm (STL on your Process) plus 202mm (min. length on 160mm Revive).


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## HoJo (Jan 26, 2004)

Verbl Kint said:


> About to buy a 160mm for my newly purchased Kona Process 153 29 (medium with 410mm seat tube length). I'm 168cm tall (5'6") with a 73 cm inseam (29 inches).
> 
> My estimate is that the length is just perfect but since I'm getting the post via mail order, I hope someone can tell me if getting the 160mm is bad idea for a little guy like me.


VK, there are two issues w sizing posts. 
1) will the seat tube length when combined with the min insert for the post or when slammed meet your saddle height. In your case when slammed. 
2) But can the post be slammed. How deep can the post be inserted into a frame can be limited by the frames internal seat tube clearance. You need this info from Kona.

I'm 5-8.5 and on one of my bikes I run a 185mm Bike Yoke w lots of exposed post before slammed. On the other bike I have a 160mm Bike Yoke, with the actuation mechanics turned at 90Deg to allow the post to get to my preferred seat height. This bike has an obstruction in the seat tube limiting the max insertion. Fortunately Bike Yoke posts have a shorter overall length for their drop dimension compared to others, with a Fox Transfer I was limited to a 125mm post and a KS lev was a 150mm post. 
My advise if it fits go as long a drop as you can. After riding the bike w a 185 dropper I could not go back to a 125 so I bought a new 160 Bike Yoke for my other bike.


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## Verbl Kint (Feb 14, 2013)

ka81ua said:


> Im 181 with 83 inseam, 160 fits perfect to me, but, feel like if I would be little bit lower - I would need smaller dropper.
> So, I would choose 125 on your place.
> Butr actualy it's easy to find out - just measure everything with normal usual seatpost, how high can it be from collar clamp to your ... )
> 
> ...


Was able to slam my old 125mm (380 length) Reverb flush without a hitch. Proceeded to measure the insertion point and I do believe 200mm is doable. 

My old dropper was on a GT Sanction (450mm seat tube length) and 125mm wasn't enough but the 150mm Reverb was too long as 175mm was the insertion limit.

I do feel that the 160mm Revive with a 202mm insertion will be close to perfect on a bike with a 410mm seat tube length. 

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


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## Verbl Kint (Feb 14, 2013)

HoJo said:


> VK, there are two issues w sizing posts.
> 1) will the seat tube length when combined with the min insert for the post or when slammed meet your saddle height. In your case when slammed.
> 2) But can the post be slammed. How deep can the post be inserted into a frame can be limited by the frames internal seat tube clearance. You need this info from Kona.
> 
> ...


It looks like I can insert as much as 200mm into the Process's 410mm seat tube length. Using the diagrams above, it looks like a perfect fit for me. 

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


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## nuss_schnaps (Apr 16, 2019)

I was looking for a low stack dropper with 100mm drop for my wife's bike. Since i could not find one, I went with the Revive after I studied the diagrams and realized that reducing the travel should not be that hard.

I made a metal spacer from an arrow field point and I used a bit of shrink-wrap to protect the tube. It fits nicely and it does not slide around. I reduced the travel with about 18mm. The post has been running smooth for half a year with no issues. I wish I had used aluminium instead steel, but i could not find a tube of the right diameter (around 8mm if I remember correctly).

Opening it up is really easy, instructions are great. A few pics:


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Nice job nuss!


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## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

*Yikes*

I think I lost the end of the revive key in the post :madman: #funnynotfunny

Any ideas on what to do?


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## Cleaner (Mar 23, 2004)

Lay the bike over with the bolt facing toward the ground and strike opposite the bolt head with your hand. I had the same thing happen and the broken piece came out. Do not load the shaft laterally, drop the post down before loading it.

If it does not drop out, you can glue a small diameter metal rod to the broken piece to pull it out. You must be certain to not glue the broken piece in the bolt when you do this.


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## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

Cleaner said:


> Lay the bike over with the bolt facing toward the ground and strike opposite the bolt head with your hand. I had the same thing happen and the broken piece came out. Do not load the shaft laterally, drop the post down before loading it.
> 
> If it does not drop out, you can glue a small diameter metal rod to the broken piece to pull it out. You must be certain to not glue the broken piece in the bolt when you do this.


Tried that. Even hit it with PB Blaster, taking care to keep it off the stanchion. No luck.


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

If you can't whack it out then you are going to need to drill a hole in it and thread in a screw. Then you should be able to yank it out.


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## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

I'm planning a new bike build and was thinking of using a 185mm Bike Yoke Revive. After reviewing the specs I am going to be very close to the minimum insertion depth....the new bike has a shorter seat tube and I have a really big inseam. I've noticed the Revive 185mm has a much longer minimum insertion depth (150mm) compared to most other similar length posts. Is Bike Yoke conservative with this spec or is there something different about these posts that require a different minimum insertion? Why is the 170mm Reverb only 80mm min insertion? Thanks!


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

We have reduced th minimum insertion from 150mm to 130mm on the REVIVE 185. Also older REVIVE 185s can be used with 130mm minimum insertion depth.
The latest production batch already has the udpated laser marking on the lower tube.
Specs on the website will be updated accordingly, asap.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

fitnessgeek said:


> I'm planning a new bike build and was thinking of using a 185mm Bike Yoke Revive. After reviewing the specs I am going to be very close to the minimum insertion depth....the new bike has a shorter seat tube and I have a really big inseam. I've noticed the Revive 185mm has a much longer minimum insertion depth (150mm) compared to most other similar length posts. Is Bike Yoke conservative with this spec or is there something different about these posts that require a different minimum insertion? Why is the 170mm Reverb only 80mm min insertion? Thanks!


A word of warning though, even though you may have the minimum insert as described above, a long seatpost on a smaller frame is a big lever and may still break the frame. I have done this with a "very long" Thompson.


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## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

sacki said:


> We have reduced th minimum insertion from 150mm to 130mm on the REVIVE 185. Also older REVIVE 185s can be used with 130mm minimum insertion depth.
> The latest production batch already has the udpated laser marking on the lower tube.
> Specs on the website will be updated accordingly, asap.


Good to know.... Thanks!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

Jayem said:


> A word of warning though, even though you may have the minimum insert as described above, a long seatpost on a smaller frame is a big lever and may still break the frame. I have done this with a "very long" Thompson.


Yeah, I understand the mechanics of it which is why I'm studying all the specs 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

Jayem said:


> A word of warning though, even though you may have the minimum insert as described above, a long seatpost on a smaller frame is a big lever and may still break the frame. I have done this with a "very long" Thompson.


Perhaps you were trying to say "fulcrum" instead?

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## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

Shadow4eva said:


> Perhaps you were trying to say "fulcrum" instead?


 I think he got it right. A fulcrum is a part of a lever. In this case, the long seatpost is the lever, and the fulcrum is closer to where the frame will eventually break.


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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

Velodonata said:


> I think he got it right. A fulcrum is a part of a lever. In this case, the long seatpost is the lever, and the fulcrum is closer to where the frame will eventually break.


You're right, I was only thinking of the fulcrum point 

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## pryde1 (May 27, 2013)

Curious...

I am buying a 31.6 185 Revive for my new frame build and it looks like the lowest price I can find is $409 US with free shipping.

Is that the best? Anyone have a better price out there?

Thanks


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Guys,

I have a 185 Revive ready to go on my new frame. It came with the Triggy obviously, but I also have a Wolftooth Light Action ReMote off my last build I can use.

Has anyone used both of these for any period of time to compare? It sounds like both will work well, just wondering which I should go with. Thanks for any input!


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## SoCal-Rider (May 25, 2009)

I’ve used both the standard Wolf Tooth Remote and the Triggy. I really like the lever feel of the WT, but the grooves in the lever ate thru the left thumb on two sets of gloves in 1-2 years. And the black anodizing has faded to a dark brown/orange color on some portions. 

I recently switched to the Triggy, since I already had it as a spare. The lever action is not quite as smooth as the WT, but I got used to it after a few rides.

If I hadn’t liked the Triggy, I was eyeing the PNW Loam Lever. I just wish it was black instead of gray/pewter.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

I'm actually starting to prefer the Triggy out of the two Revive's that I have (the other with the WT). The light and smooth action of the Revive makes the bigger WT kind of unnecessary and a little obtuse. It's still a great remote, no question, but the ergonomics of the Triggy are also solid. I do occasionally have an issue with the Triggy mount loosening, but I could probably easily address that with some loctite. My WT is the regular version, but I've ran both of these for a few years now on different bikes. IMO, the Triggy integrates a bit better.


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## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

They both work ESSENTIALLY THE SAME. 
Just grab one and use.


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## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

rscecil007 said:


> Guys,
> 
> I have a 185 Revive ready to go on my new frame. It came with the Triggy obviously, but I also have a Wolftooth Light Action ReMote off my last build I can use.
> 
> Has anyone used both of these for any period of time to compare? It sounds like both will work well, just wondering which I should go with. Thanks for any input!


I've never tried my light action WT with my Revive, it is not the preferred choice for the Revive. I can say that the standard WT works very well and while the Triggy is no match for the build quality of the WT, it functions just fine too and probably better in your case being designed for the Revive.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Thanks for the input guys, appreciate it. I didn't realize the Triggy could mount straight to the clamp for the Code brakes on my new bike. Still building it up as I'm in the final bit of shoulder surgery recovery. I also had the WT eat through a glove thumb or two. Looks like I'll just sell the WT.

Any huge difference in the Triggy vs Triggy X, besides the fact the lever reach is adjustable? My 185 Revive came with the regular Triggy.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

You are overthinking this. The standard triggy is great. Far and away better than the first few generations of dropper remotes we saw from manufacturers.


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## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

My Revive 185 has started an oil leak from the bottom. The frame near BB is oil coated... but the post function is still ideal. Need a full rebuild? About 80 hours since from a box (new post).


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## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

accordnick said:


> My Revive 185 has started an oil leak from the bottom. The frame near BB is oil coated... but the post function is still ideal. Need a full rebuild? About 80 hours since from a box (new post).


*sacki* replied, offered full service for free or a free rebuild kit. Brilliant support. :thumbsup:


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## no one in particular (Jan 30, 2004)

I had a fairly dramatic failure of my 160 Revive yesterday. JRA obviously. It's only 6 months old, but it has about 3.5k miles on it. I emailed *sacki* just now. Hoping for a quick resolution...


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

no one in particular said:


> I had a fairly dramatic failure of my 160 Revive yesterday. JRA obviously.


Dang. That could hurt. Curious how much you weigh?

Not trying to lay blame. Just trying to understand the variables.


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## The Messiah (Apr 18, 2019)

no one in particular said:


> I had a fairly dramatic failure of my 160 Revive yesterday. JRA obviously. It's only 6 months old, but it has about 3.5k miles on it. I emailed *sacki* just now. Hoping for a quick resolution...
> 
> View attachment 1256225


If you were JRA then why is the post most of the way down?


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## no one in particular (Jan 30, 2004)

The Messiah said:


> If you were JRA then why is the post most of the way down?


Why not? I use it constantly, particularly for cornering. It is most of the way down because it is made to function like that. 



InertiaMan said:


> Dang. That could hurt. Curious how much you weigh?
> 
> Not trying to lay blame. Just trying to understand the variables.


200lb with gear


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## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

The Messiah said:


> If you were JRA then why is the post most of the way down?


I JRA with my post at all different heights.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Nat said:


> I JRA with my post at all different heights.


Me too. But it's also a worthless statement, only meaningful if all the riding up to that point was "JRA" and never imposing any extreme stresses, as most bike/component failures usually happen after a number of cycles from a weak spot, pit, flaw, etc.

I would reckon BY will get him back rolling, they've been great with me. Did a nice ride in the wilderness yesterday and buddies Turbine post was dying bad on the ride, just so much difference between that product and this. I love how the Revive just keeps going on and on, same as always.


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## no one in particular (Jan 30, 2004)

Jayem said:


> Me too. But it's also a worthless statement, only meaningful if all the riding up to that point was "JRA" and never imposing any extreme stresses, as most bike/component failures usually happen after a number of cycles from a weak spot, pit, flaw, etc.


Agreed. My statement was tongue in cheek.

Irrespective of that...I literally was JRA on an easy section when it broke, but presumably it had been going for quite a while. I had noticed a bit of a creak developing over the past few weeks, but I had supposed that it was coming from the mount or the saddle--now it seems this slowly worsening failure point was the likely cause of the creak.

Not that it matters, but I don't recall the actual position when it failed. After it failed, I shoved the post all the way down and packed my saddle into my bag for the stand-pedal ride back--luckily only about 3 miles and largely downhill.


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

no one in particular said:


> After it failed, I shoved the post all the way down and packed my saddle into my bag for the stand-pedal ride back--luckily only about 3 miles and largely downhill.


Lucky you were close to the trailhead. I was once forced to ride 15 miles with 2500' of climbing on a seat-less bike when the entire seat mast snapped off my Intense Tracer circa 2001. I wouldn't wish that on anyone.


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## no one in particular (Jan 30, 2004)

It'll come as no surprise to anyone reading this thread that I am once again a very happy Revive user because of the exceptional customer service offered by BikeYoke and in particular *Sacki*. He had just a few easy questions for me--which he prefaced by saying that my answers would not affect my warranty. And then just 3 business days after he found out about the break, I had my new Revive!

Now I just have to stick the broke one back in the box and return it. Done and done.


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## bogeydog (Apr 13, 2015)

Sacki, 

I have a Revive and Divine post. The top of the saddle clamp on the Divine is full length while the Revive is short. Can I use the longer one on the Revive? Short clamps don't play well with carbon rails. 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Yes, upper clamps are interchangeable between REVIVE and DIVINE SL.


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## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

Hello, I just serviced my Revive 185 for the first time. I bought it used and have ridden it a bit since the season started until I finally got the time to service it. I used the Youtube video as reference. I’m sure I’ve followed all instructions but I will need to order a service kit as the foam ring is damaged.

Anyways... after the rebuild, when I drop the post totally down, it sort of pops. There is an original bottom out point but by applying extra force, it goes down another extra quarter of an inch. I did feel when rebuilding it that it bottomed out higher than it did before. After the pop, it sits where I expected it to. Dropping the post while sitting on the saddle is more than enough to cause the pop.

So I’m wondering what I did wrong. It almost feels like the o-ring in the lower tube moves out of place (possibly sticking to the grease?) and when lowering the post, the extra pressure makes it slide back into place.

Did anybody else ever experiment this problem?

Thanks for the help.


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## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

You know what, I now think I might have put the spacer backwards. It would totally fit the o-ring theory as it would slide inside the center of the spacer.


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## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

Well, sorry for the noise but it was exactly the spacer that was backwards. I’ll leave this here in case anybody else encounters the same issue.

Someone should have told BikeYoke to speed up that video just a bit more to make things clearer... 

The post is now so smooth, it’s great to be able to rebuilt it at home. It was the #1 selling point for me and it was definitely a good purchase.


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## SoCal-Rider (May 25, 2009)

PissedOffCil said:


> Well, sorry for the noise but it was exactly the spacer that was backwards. I'll leave this here in case anybody else encounters the same issue.
> 
> Someone should have told BikeYoke to speed up that video just a bit more to make things clearer...
> 
> The post is now so smooth, it's great to be able to rebuilt it at home. It was the #1 selling point for me and it was definitely a good purchase.


Thanks for this. That would explain the pop I've noticed since I serviced my post. I remember looking at the spacer and flipping it one way then the other. And the video didn't show the orientation.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

It's worth to make the pictures during disassembly - might be very useful during assembly .


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## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

PeterG said:


> It's worth to make the pictures during disassembly - might be very useful during assembly .


I normally reassemble right away but this time I had to go to the grocery store and couldn't remember the orientation... and weed is now legal so... yup! :lol:


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Wait, which spacer are we talking about?


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## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

sacki said:


> Wait, which spacer are we talking about?


The one that goes after the "needle drivers" and the o-ring. White, plastic, with a flat side. Part #42 (Lower stanchion bushing washer)


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Will the Revive work with a KS Southpaw lever??


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## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

dwyooaj said:


> Will the Revive work with a KS Southpaw lever??


Yep, they work beautifully together. Have done so for a while now.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Well it seems I have the oil leak at the bottom also. I noticed it a couple weeks ago while tearing down my recluse to use the parts on my xc whip.

I cleaned it up before reinstalling and now I've just pulled it out and it's oily again.

This is my first dropper I did alot of research because I'm not rich but like nice things that last a long time and I can.maintain myself.

That being said it's been flawless and I recommend it to anyone looking for a post.


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## Verbl Kint (Feb 14, 2013)

Silicone spray on the Revive stanchion after a bike wash: good idea or dumb idea?


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## DougA (Apr 3, 2008)

Late to the party I know. I had a massive creak develop in mine after about 200 miles. I think it's solved by adding a piece of cut inner tube between the head of the post and the lower saddle clamp. I saw up thread about copper washer etc but so far this is clean, easy and effective. Rode Downieville and quiet as a church mouse.
Otherwise has been a great post though I did have to revive it after a crash.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Today when I "Revive'd" the post was hard to push down while valve was open, like there was some resistance. Then, when i pushed he lever it came back up real slow. Then, when i pushed the lever again, it went up and down normally and still stays up and locked.
Any ideas?????????????


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Try the revive function, if it goes down easily it's probably the cable that's too loose, try increasing the cable tension at the knob on the lever.
If even using the revive function the seatpost is hard to lower, it's possible that your Revive is in the need of a lower service.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Aglo said:


> Try the revive function, if it goes down easily it's probably the cable that's too loose, try increasing the cable tension at the knob on the lever.
> If even using the revive function the seatpost is hard to lower, it's possible that your Revive is in the need of a lower service.


its when i use the revive function, it starts going down easlily then hits resistance, feels like pushing through oil. Then if release the revive switch and i hit the actuator lever, it come sup real slow. Then if i press teh actuator lever again it goes up and down fast like normal.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Update:
After a trail ride I had the bike upside down to clean it off before putting back on the car. For some inexplicable reason I activated the lever while it was upside down, probably because the seat was lowered. I flipped it over and immediately the saddle dropped some when i sat on it. boo hoo.

However, this post is so easy to tweak, not to worry. i did the revive “bleed’ technique and instantly back to normal.

This has to be THE BEST post on the market in terms of continuous adjustment, travel options AND RELIABILITY.

I don’t have to do anything to this post, except when i do something to it. And then it is so easy to correct.

Bravo, Bike Yoke!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Has anyone made a new foam ring instead of buying the service kit? I serviced my post at the beginning of this year, and the foam ring was pretty worn out, but I re-used it.

Now my post is returning extremely slow, so I took it apart last night. The old foam ring was so worn that it got sucked into the 2 small breather holes, and actually had that shape when I removed it. I'm sure this was my problem with the slow return.

I will buy a service kit, if I can find one for sale. It seems like they are not available on a lot of web sites.

But in the mean time, I would like to create my own foam ring. Too bad Bikeyoke doesn't sell that as a separate item. I feel like that part wears the fastest.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

69tr6r said:


> But in the mean time, I would like to create my own foam ring. Too bad Bikeyoke doesn't sell that as a separate item. I feel like that part wears the fastest.


Agreed, I "Revived" mine by flattening it back out and carefully re-installing it, but it seems like something that should probably be replaced any time you service (grease and inspect) it.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

69tr6r said:


> foam ring


part # ?


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

It's Part Number 45 in that diagram.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Yeah, #45 does seem to bear the brunt of the wear and tear.

Complete service kit (with the foam bottom out dumper, new seal, new brass rods, etc.) can be purchased direct from BikeYoke (if you're in EU) or in the US from Universal Cycles.

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=94828


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Another broken Revive post. Waiting on warranty. Cant recommend this post and should be recalled. Could of gotten extremely hurt. Luckily nothing happened.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

stumpynerd said:


> Another broken Revive post.


How long did it last?


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## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

"Another?" Have there been more? I didn't want to dig through the entire thread.


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

Nat said:


> "Another?" Have there been more? I didn't want to dig through the entire thread.


See post #896 above.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Post lasted a year.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

I saw another failure on a different thread too.


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

stumpynerd said:


> I saw another failure on a different thread too.


Here . . .



WHALENARD said:


> View attachment 1272727
> 
> 
> Today the seat head snapped off the post. I stabbed myself in the bag pretty bad (still hurts) and happened about 2/3 of the way in on a big ride...day 2 of 2.
> ...


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

So that's three reasonably well documented cases from three different riders, all with same failure at the head/stanchion.

I realize this is among (presumably) many 1000's of units shipped. Still, the prospect of sitting on a jagged tip of stanchion is a sobering concern for any Revive owners.

Sacki, it seems like this would justify some sort of response. Is there any reason to believe this is isolated to a narrow range of production, or size/model, etc? Should we all be concerned?


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Sacki emailed me and sending new post. Didnt mean to sound kinda mad about dropper on forum. Hopefully its just a fluke.


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## Verbl Kint (Feb 14, 2013)

Verbl Kint said:


> Silicone spray on the Revive stanchion after a bike wash: good idea or dumb idea?


Reposting this. Hopefully someone here can give some insight.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

What does it mean when the only way the post will go up or down is with the Revive lever?

My post will not move using the lever actuator. I just performed a service, and made my own foam ring. I also tried the post without a foam ring, same result.

Pressure is at 250psi. This is completely off the bike, no lever or cable attached.


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## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

InertiaMan said:


> So that's three reasonably well documented cases from three different riders, all with same failure at the head/stanchion.
> 
> I realize this is among (presumably) many 1000's of units shipped. Still, the prospect of sitting on a jagged tip of stanchion is a sobering concern for any Revive owners.
> 
> Sacki, it seems like this would justify some sort of response. Is there any reason to believe this is isolated to a narrow range of production, or size/model, etc? Should we all be concerned?


As a Revive owner, with nothing but praise for this post based on my experience, it is not the kind of thing you like to hear about. I can't imagine Sacki is very happy about it either.
To his credit, and as seems to be his style, he did address this directly a few weeks ago in the other Revive thread:

"It is not the first time we see this happening, yet it is very rare.
I´ll provide some numbers here:
In over 30.000 produced units of droppers, we have had just a bit over 1% (something below 1.2% to be more precise) reported warranty cases.
Those include everything from hydraulic issues, mechanical issues, and structural issues.
This is a very good value for a suspension product
Structural issues, where posts have actually failed or broken are about 1/10 of those warranty cases.
While some of our customers, us included, and also 100% of our sponsored riders (>100 posts are out ther with sponsored, professional riders, who bascially ride every day) have never had a single structural failure, there are for example three customers, who already broke two posts in a row. Then, some of the failures had a severe crash involved (e.g bent saddle rails) before the post gave up a few days later. Other customers, had the saddle installed out of the allowed range (too far too the back) and some of them had the saddle clamp oriented the wrong way.
So in some of the cases, we do have explanations for such a failure.
On some of the cases, however, we could not find anything extraordinary about. At least we did not get any feedback from the customer to get a lead.
Every warranty cases goes over my table, and so I am always keen to finding out, which circumstances the failure happend around.
We are super sorry to see or hear about any single problem with our posts, and of course a structural failure is that, what we don´t want to see at all.
On test benches, we never had a single case, where a head snapped off, as seen in the picture. Yet, it can apparently happen in real life.
We are currently still investigating this structural behaviour and trying to find a solution to avoid such failures in the future.
Just wanted to leave those words here, as I felt I shoud give a statement."


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

Good to see Sacki continuing to be transparent and responsive. Here's hoping we don't see a 4th or 5th case.


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## yeti575 (Feb 25, 2007)

I had the same failure (head broken off) in June of this year. I documented on another thread. No warning, just snap. Very lucky I wasn't hurt. Dirt Labs warrantied it, but had little in the way of an explanation as to why this had happened or possible "fixes" so this would not be a concern going forward.


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## tkblazer (Sep 18, 2005)

Before I go and order another seat post, does anyone have a revive max 160 that would want to trade for my 185? I’m about 5-10mm too short to use this dropper.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

I like to say in my case Sacki went above and beyond in costumer service. He reached out to me and was personally very communicative with emails and such to get me a new post. Speaking of which I had a new post at my door from Taiwan in 3 days, no bs required. The whole experience left a very positive impression on me, Sacki is a stand up guy and backs his products.


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

tkblazer said:


> Before I go and order another seat post, does anyone have a revive max 160 that would want to trade for my 185? I'm about 5-10mm too short to use this dropper.


This guy has instructions on how to shorten the stroke with a spacer.
Could be useful for you.

Revive! | Peter Verdone Designs


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

69tr6r said:


> What does it mean when the only way the post will go up or down is with the Revive lever?
> 
> My post will not move using the lever actuator. I just performed a service, and made my own foam ring. I also tried the post without a foam ring, same result.
> 
> Pressure is at 250psi. This is completely off the bike, no lever or cable attached.


Fixed my issue by disassembling the post. Somehow air was trapped on the wrong side of the piston. Not sure how that happened, but probably something I did while servicing the post.

I removed all air pressure from the valve before taking it apart, but I could tell when unscrewing the cartridge that there was air behind it. Sure enough, when I unscrewed it past the final thread it popped off like it was under pressure.

I drained the oil, which was about 10cc low, and definitely dirty. I expected it to be low because I have accidentally actuated the revive function without the cap over the schrader valve, and I've seen oil come out of there. I filled to the proper amount with Redline 2.5wt suspension fluid. Re-assembled and pressurized, all works very nice now.

The only part I replaced was the foam ring. I had the entire service kit and rebuild kit on hand if I found anything that looked like it needed replacing. I decided to hang onto those parts for the next time, plus I wanted to be sure that my post would work properly after re-assembly.


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## JasonBoz (Feb 22, 2008)

Hello, just thought I would ad to this forum, unfortunately my post broke at the head yesterday with no warning, I personally see this as a design fault and hopefully Bike Yoke will make some modification to the design. I am in Australia and awaiting to see what the local distributor has to say re warranty, not even a year old with less the 800miles on the tripmeter.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

I am sorry to see this, and I am glad you are OK. This should not happen, of course. This, however, is something we can see once in a while.
More specifically, we have marketed more than 35.000 posts up to date and we have seen about 40 structural failures, similar to this one.
For what it's worth:
We have one customer, who managed to break 3 posts already.
Two other customers broke 2 posts. So it is quite likely, that those customers are doing something to the post, that others, who have been running posts for 3 years without a single issue, don´t - whatever it may be (or not). But it is noticeable, if some customers seem to have the same problem repeatedly.
Some other broken posts reportedly had a crash shortly prior to the failure. 
Some other of these posts had a reversed lower clamp and/or saddles too far set to the back.
Some of those posts have been used on hardtails, (which can lead to very big stress on the post).
But also: For some other posts there simply is no distinctive happening/conspicuousness, (which is known to us) that could give an idea for the failure. We just don´t know, why it failed.

Nevertheless, we do take anything serious and we do not want to see any broken BikeYoke post - no matter, if it's due to a crash, abuse or a potential design flaw or just accident/chance. It symply should not happen.
That being said, we´ve already redesigned the upper tube/head area of the REVIVE.


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## JasonBoz (Feb 22, 2008)

sacki said:


> I am sorry to see this, and I am glad you are OK. This should not happen, of course. This, however, is something we can see once in a while.
> More specifically, we have marketed more than 35.000 posts up to date and we have seen about 40 structural failures, similar to this one.
> For what it's worth:
> We have one customer, who managed to break 3 posts already.
> ...


Hello Sacki, really appreciate prompt reply with your feedback, hopefully the Australian distributor will respond soon with some news.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> That being said, we´ve already redesigned the upper tube/head area of the REVIVE.


Would you consider to sell the 'new upper' separately? 
As for me, I would buy it for some corresponding price to upgarde my Revive (I don't have "upper head problem" for now but still).


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

I am one of the customers that broke 2 posts. Revive is the best dropper post in the world, as far as hydraulics. When you see the pictures of heads broken off, keep in mind that the hydraulics STILL WORK. One of mine lasted about 180-200(?) rides. Hard to remember. The second head broke after about 120 rides. I weigh 190 pounds. Very advanced rider that usually rides 200 days per year. Started riding in 1973. No signifigant crashes on post. I have a bad habbit of sitting on saddle on some DH sections when in hour 3 or 4 on LOOOOONg rides (20-25 miles and 3000-5000 feet of climbing). My opinion: original upper posts needed to be stronger. Sacki did that, re designed upper tubes. I am about 30 rides on new post, so far so good. Thanks to Bikeyoke for a great idea, and Sacki for the best customer service. Yes, I agree, newer style upper tubes should be available as a retrofit. If you are reading this in order to decide wether or not to buy a REVIVE, yes, do it! You are covered by a great warranty, great customer service and super fast turnaround, from my experience.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Sacki,

How would we be able to tell if we have the new redesigned upper tube with the new head? I'm probably 195 lbs, so this is a concern for me as well.


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Dont sweat it, Sacki said only a few broken pieces out of 30.000 units. Just ride man! Maybe we should all pitch in for Disneyland ticket for Sacki, so he can see just how big americans are.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Yeah, I've been pounding the hell out of mine, I mean hard stuff like legit DH in WA state, no issues. I would not be worried. The two I have are some of the very first in the 125 and 160 travel lengths as well, back when it was a kickstarter for the 125.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

I could tell be a serial number, but we´ve just changed recently in two steps. 
Again, we do not know, why the posts fail the way the fail. We've never had a single post fail in this way on a test machine.
It might have to do with the way how customer use the post (sitting while going through compressions, sitting during hard hits, crashing...) because as I said:
Three customers have broken more than one post (one of them broke three posts), and for most of the other broken posts, we can see at least something significant happening before the failure. 
More than 99.8% have been using it since day one without any structural issues.
I am always asking for the rider's weight, and the weights go from as low as 70kg to over 100kg. So the rider weight is not likely to be the issue, as it happens with different weights.
This leaves me with the conclusion, that those customers do something different to the post than others do.
One of the customers with a broken post was actually being very honest and told me following, when I asked him about his weight: (quote)
*"105 kg, I also am lazy and ride seated more than most. Hard on the post."*
This is information, which is very helpful for us, but unfortunately, not everyone is as honest as he was.
We are not trying to talk us out of replacement, when asking those questions. We do not want to see a broken post and so far we have replaced all of them, even if a crash was involved. But it is very important for us to gte as much honest information about what could have contributed to this failure.


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## cachaulo (Sep 14, 2009)

sacki said:


> I could tell be a serial number, but we´ve just changed recently in two steps.
> Again, we do not know, why the posts fail the way the fail. We've never had a single post fail in this way on a test machine.
> It might have to do with the way how customer use the post (sitting while going through compressions, sitting during hard hits, crashing...) because as I said:
> Three customers have broken more than one post (one of them broke three posts), and for most of the other broken posts, we can see at least something significant happening before the failure.
> ...


As an engineer I love reading this post. I completely understand how hard it is to do proper failure analysis on products not tested in controlled environments. I applaud the honesty and detail provided, this is the kind of company I want to support (both by buying products and sending feedback on their stuff because I know it will be used to make future improvements). Keep up the good work!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

When I read about this, my first thought also was people riding seated on fast bumpy downhill sections. It's probably made worse on bikes with very slack actual seat tube angles, as the leverage force must be immense. One of my friends (~200+ lbs) does this on long continuous descents (7+ minutes) and has completely snapped the rails on his saddle. I have (at 170 lbs) have bent titanium rails on a saddle when the bike bucked, I accidentally bumped the dropper lever, and I came down hard on the saddle. One would think that the saddle rails would fail first, but it's certain that a lot of force can be developed in these types of scenarios.


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Andeh, I break or bend wtb saddle rails if I use saddle more than about 1.5 yrs, so I replace saddle every 12 months now to keep ahead of it, currently on Brooks. I would like to mention another GREAT thing about BIKEYOKE REVIVE: Sacki has you covered with warranty(rarely needed) and fast response time. When you think about 100's and 100's of complaints by KS Lev owners and Rockshox Reverb owners about bad cartridges, leaky hydraulics, and downright failures, the 1000's of missed ride days, Bikeyoke is far superior in keeping you riding. Sacki had a replacement post at my house in 5 days! Think about that for a minute. I know many people that sent in KS, RS Reverb, Fox Doss for failure service, and their post was gone for 3 weeks. The new FOX Transfer seems pretty good from what I have seen, but service intervals for me would be every 4 months at $180 with shipping. Thats about $500 per year for proper maintenance! Not to mention FOX has long turnoaround times at various times. The Bikeyoke is really easy to maintain at home, which keepsmyou riding. Maybe do an Oil change every 18 months, I wouldnt know, because my first Bikyoke hydraulics where still working after 1.5 yrs (probably 3 yrs worth of rides for most people), with only basic "at home" cleanings.


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## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

Andeh said:


> When I read about this, my first thought also was people riding seated on fast bumpy downhill sections. It's probably made worse on bikes with very slack actual seat tube angles, as the leverage force must be immense. One of my friends (~200+ lbs) does this on long continuous descents (7+ minutes) and has completely snapped the rails on his saddle. I have (at 170 lbs) have bent titanium rails on a saddle when the bike bucked, I accidentally bumped the dropper lever, and I came down hard on the saddle. One would think that the saddle rails would fail first, but it's certain that a lot of force can be developed in these types of scenarios.


One of my buddies was in end of ride lazy mode recently and rode through a dip on a descent fully in the saddle and his seatpost snapped like a gunshot, no damage to the saddle rails. He was on a carbon Truvativ post, so it was definitely the weak link. It made me think about these Revive failures, I have been on one for a couple of years with no problems, I'm a 200+er, so I am going to remain careful not to overload my post. Sometimes things happen, it's nice to know BikeYoke has such good customer support.


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## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

What does it mean when the post extension speed slows down considerably? Mine used to pop up with a crisp, solid “whack” but lately it’s sluggish like a Reverb. 

The only abnormality I saw before the speed change was that the reset switch became sticky. 

I had the post serviced this summer.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

Nat said:


> What does it mean when the post extension speed slows down considerably? Mine used to pop up with a crisp, solid "whack" but lately it's sluggish like a Reverb.
> 
> The only abnormality I saw before the speed change was that the reset switch became sticky.
> 
> I had the post serviced this summer.


what air PSI when this happens?


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## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

I don’t know. I didn’t change the air pressure before it slowed down though. Do you think some may have leaked out?


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Isn't it the first idea in your mind to check air pressure? (whatever component it is, if there's air chamber )


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## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

Most likely it needs some fresh grease. I find that the Revive spits out a fair bit of grease after a fresh rebuild. It eventually settles but that's when performance starts going down. Basically, I think it needs a grease seal. This is my only complaint about the post, it needs to be regreased often.


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## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

Post is at 260psi minus anything that might've leaked out when I removed the shock pump. The rebound speed is still super slow like sludge.

Anyway, how critical is this cylindrical piece that on the schematic shows "Allen key 2mm" fitting it? Mine seems to be missing.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

The cylindrical piece is a grub screw and is very important to secure the reset "finger" in the axle.
I would assume it is a clogged foam ring in the bottom. If you use too much grease, the foam ring can clg the breathing holes in the bottom of the post. Those holes need to be free and allow air flow.
Did you already check the "REVIVE troubleshooting" thread?


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## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

sacki said:


> The cylindrical piece is a grub screw and is very important to secure the reset "finger" in the axle.
> I would assume it is a clogged foam ring in the bottom. If you use too much grease, the foam ring can clg the breathing holes in the bottom of the post. Those holes need to be free and allow air flow.
> Did you already check the "REVIVE troubleshooting" thread?


Okay, I'll give you guys a call this week to see about buying a replacement grub screw.

I read just the first entry of the troubleshooting page but not the entire thing. I was hoping to avoid opening up the post as I no longer enjoy wrenching on my own bikes. This summer I dropped it off at the LBS, who sent it in to you guys for service because they said they didn't want to deal with it, so I figured that if the shop didn't want to do it then I probably didn't want to either. That step of removing the circlip to wipe down the foam ring doesn't sound too challenging but if it needs another service already I think I'll just send it back in again over the winter.

Thanks for responding, sacki.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

sacki said:


> The cylindrical piece is a grub screw and is very important to secure the reset "finger" in the axle.
> I would assume it is a clogged foam ring in the bottom. If you use too much grease, the foam ring can clg the breathing holes in the bottom of the post. Those holes need to be free and allow air flow.
> Did you already check the "REVIVE troubleshooting" thread?


Sacki, can I request that Bikeyoke start selling the foam rings as a single component? I've had my Revive for almost 2 years, and that is the only thing I have needed to replace.

I did need to do a full rebuild because I somehow messed up the service procedure last time.

I purchased the entire service kit, as well as the full O-ring rebuild kit, but when I opened my post I did not think it was necessary to replace anything except the foam ring. So, as an experiment, I only replaced the foam ring and refilled the oil using Red Line 2.5wt oil. The post works better than ever!

Thanks.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

So mine has been leaking oil from the bottom until recently.
Then a month ago it started make a woosh air sound out of the bottom. Post still work fine.

Now I take it out yesterday and at some point during the ride it started returning slowly.

Question is what do I need to do to fix it?


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## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> So mine has been leaking oil from the bottom until recently.
> Then a month ago it started make a woosh air sound out of the bottom. Post still work fine.
> 
> Now I take it out yesterday and at some point during the ride it started returning slowly.
> ...


To fix an oil leak from the bottom you need the Revive o-ring kit:

https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-o-ring-kit.html

(actually only blue U-cap seal #36 is to be replaced) and a suitable oil (specs are in this post https://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-info-tipps-tricks-troubleshooting-1087156.html).

When doing the service, replace or just clear the foam cover ring, it's contaminated by leaking oil that causes slow return.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

accordnick said:


> To fix an oil leak from the bottom you need the Revive o-ring kit:
> 
> https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-o-ring-kit.html
> 
> ...


 Thank you.

Edit: got er done. The part of the foam ring that makes contact with the bottom out bumper was completely cut off and clogging the holes. So I assume the woosh sound is because the holes aren't covered by the foam so the sound is no longer muffled.

Cleaned greased put back together works fine again woosh sound is back.

Doesn't solve my oil leak though I have no idea how much oil is left but from what I gather if it wasn't enough the post would be sagging and not functioning properly.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Hey Guys, please check out this one here:
https://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-divine-185-frame-insertion-1125619.html


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

How to remove #51 spring pin 3x10 ?
That pin holds #48 avtuator lever. I want to take it out, clean everything there and regrease.

Can I just lightly hammer it out?

https://forums.mtbr.com/attachments...3414-bikeyoke-revive-revive_exploded_view.jpg


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

So, removed it.
As you may see - surface of 48 is slightly shabby (sorry for bad english). That makes working of dropper lever bit different, no so smooth as at the begining.
I guess slightly sanding it will resolve the "problem"..
I wish I had that actuator lever new right now so I could feel the diference ..


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

I have a question regarding the usage of levers that clamp the cable at the lever end (Wolftoot Remote, PNW Loam): do you still use the original barrel on the post side end of cable? You will just trim the cable on the lever side as a last step of installation, right?


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Yapp. 
Just slide our original barrel on the inner cable close to the nipple. Then clamp the barrel and cut off the nipple. Then feed the cable from rear to front through the remote and trim. 
Easy.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> Easy.


Could you please tell: is it possible for BikeYoke to make actuator lever of some more hardened metall? Becasu actual version lasted too short.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Which part you mean? The silver lever in your pictures above? 
What do you mean, when you say it "lasted too short"?


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

sacki said:


> Yapp.
> Just slide our original barrel on the inner cable close to the nipple. Then clamp the barrel and cut off the nipple. Then feed the cable from rear to front through the remote and trim.
> Easy.


Thank you.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> Which part you mean?


Asi I said in post №974 - #48 avtuator lever - on your own scheme.



sacki said:


> What do you mean, when you say it "lasted too short"?


As I said - now there's no smooth feeling when me pushing dropper lever, it's more like moving on some rough surface.
SO, I took it (#48) out and, as you can see on my photos, it has some trace of friction. On first sight it may look like not important but actually this small trace causing serious trouble to dropper lever operation - no more smoothness.
It didn't last long - means that only few years and it wore out already.

1) If it would be maden of some more hardened metall - would be better. It would keep its suraface smooth longer!
2) I sanded it with dremel and now it's VERY smooth again! But, I understand that some time later it will happen again.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

In my experience, this lever barely causes any trouble and is not subject to noticeable wear. I can not see by the picture, but it kind of looks normal to me. 
Friction can be caused by many things. In case of a not properly retracting cable it is mostly due to a corroded cable/housing or lack of lubrication? What do you use as lubrication on the small lever? Oil?

We have sold maybe 10-15pcs of replacement kits of the actuator lever. Why those were ordered, I can not say, but going by a total number of >40.000 sold units, I think it is safe to assume, that your case is unfortunate, but maybe only coincidence .
I honestly have not heard any complaints about critical rocker wear at all, so I would like to say you are the very first one I have heard of.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> In my experience, this lever barely causes any trouble and is not subject to noticeable wear. I can not see by the picture, but it kind of looks normal to me.
> Friction can be caused by many things. In case of a not properly retracting cable it is mostly due to a corroded cable/housing or lack of lubrication? What do you use as lubrication on the small lever? Oil?
> 
> We have sold maybe 10-15pcs of replacement kits of the actuator lever. Why those were ordered, I can not say, but going by a total number of >40.000 sold units, I think it is safe to assume, that your case is unfortunate, but maybe only coincidence .
> I honestly have not heard any complaints about critical rocker wear at all, so I would like to say you are the very first one I have heard of.


Sorry, don't mean to be rude or something, but - did you read my message? )

I FIXED roughness by sanding surface of #48! And yes - it caused a problem! Now, it's smooth again, like new.

But, I understand that in some time it will come back again, cause that area is always (when rider pushes dropper lever) under friction.

And it's not compliant from me, I just poin out on an issue, that sooner or later will have every owner of Revive who apprecaites maximum smoothness.
And finally, it just would be great to have alternative #48 - maden of another material (like steel or smth). You made saddle bolts of titanium? yes, so, it'd be good to have #48 the same. )


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Yes, of course I did read your message. No need to get excited here.
As the designer with insight in basically almost every warranty claim or complaint, I am just trying to give first hand feedback and input.

All I said was, that your case might be a weird coincidence, as we´ve sold 40.000 posts in over three years now and no one ever claimed excessive wear on the lever before and also we only sold very few replacement levers.
That´s why I think your case might just be a very special case with some coincidences adding up. Of course polishing can help, but it is usually not neccessary. I am sure, you also re-greased your lever after polishing, and this will definitely also make a huge difference.
Again, I am not saying, that there was nothing wrong with your particular lever, but I would just like to rule out, that this is a general issue, which requires a design update. Otherwise I would´ve very likely heard of it before. 

P.S.
I was asking, which lubricant you are using on the lever. Could you please let me know?


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> as we´ve sold 40.000 posts in over three years now and no one ever claimed excessive wear on the lever before and


well, I asume all the owners are just satisfied with "rather-not-bad" working, but I found out that it can be better. )
Right now - it's perfectly smooooooth, like butter! ))



sacki said:


> you also re-greased your lever after polishing, and this will definitely also make a huge difference.


woh-woh, wait a minute, let me be sure we are on the same discussion wave - I polished this tiny detail "actuator lever" #48, which is underside of dropper.
The "droppper lever", which is on the nahdlebars, - is just fine without any upgrades. Yes, I clean it from times to times, regrease i, but no mechanical upgrades!



sacki said:


> I would just like to rule out, that this is a general issue, which requires a design update.


as an engineer you must understand that area where is friction - it will wear out some time in future.
So yes, it's an issue. Not that bad, but ... 
And there's no need to re-design anything. If you only use other material - some hardened steel for #48 actuator lever - that will solve issue. I mean yes, it will wear out, but much much much later.



sacki said:


> I was asking, which lubricant you are using on the lever. Could you please let me know?


Seriously, any consistant grease there, if we are talking about greasing dropper lever (which is on handlebars).
Right now I used Motorex, nut any other will be just fine!


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Handlebar remote is completely out of the question here. 
We´ve been talking about the actuator lever here. 
I wanted to know, which grease you were using on the actuator lever on the bottom of the post.
Anyway, all is good, so I don´t think, we need to proceed the discussion.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> all is good


yup... till it come back (cause of friction). )



sacki said:


> so I don´t think, we need to proceed the discussion.


anyway, I would buy #48 maden of some other material, if you'll ever create it.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Sacki, if you're taking wishlist notes, I'd love to see a Triggy v.4 that has the adjustable slide and clamp at the lever of the v.3 paired with either a bearing (ideally) or bushing at the pivot. I went back to using a v.2 Triggy after being a long time Wolf Tooth and short time OneUp lever user. I like the rotational smoothness of those 2 levers better, but the Triggy does the best job of mirroring the lever paddle position of a SRAM shifter. I've thought about trying to find a thin Delrin washer to insert between the 2 major pieces but wouldn't know where to start looking for that.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

for what it is worth

I have multiple droppers with practically identical bottom of post lever acutator
(yes I have a revive too) and they all work smooth, 
and if not 

it is a matter of how I route my cable and housing....I see no issue with the lever but sure if you find it is smoother when polished and greased, that is OK. but mine work great no worries on the bottom of post...it's all about how the cable assembly gets smooshed back in when I insert the post back in the seat tube. dependent on the bike frame putting the post back in the tube can be somewhat tricky


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Andeh said:


> Sacki, if you're taking wishlist notes, I'd love to see a Triggy v.4 that has the adjustable slide and clamp at the lever of the v.3 paired with either a bearing (ideally) or bushing at the pivot. I went back to using a v.2 Triggy after being a long time Wolf Tooth and short time OneUp lever user. I like the rotational smoothness of those 2 levers better, but the Triggy does the best job of mirroring the lever paddle position of a SRAM shifter. I've thought about trying to find a thin Delrin washer to insert between the 2 major pieces but wouldn't know where to start looking for that.


Thanks for the input.
We´ll definitely put it on the wish-list (and I am not just saying this...)


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

One more quick question. I had a really hard time getting the barrel off from old cable, because the hex key was slipping in 2mm (stainless steel?) setscrew. I probably overtightened it during installation. Finally had to pull the strands out one-by-one with pliers and drill out some more strands. I hope I can just use ordinary black non-SS instead of the original stainless one?


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

You mean as inner cable?
Any shifting cable will work with our droppers.
Just make sure you have a matchign housing, as there are two major diameters (1.1mm -> SRAM and 1.2mm ->Shimano).


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Sorry for unclear question. I stripped the head of the setscrew #7 that goes into barrel nut #52 and would like to replace it. I picked up the Jagwire Pro Dropper kit that uses 0.8mm cable.


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

If you can clamp the barrel properly, then I don´t see a reason, why it would not work.

P.S. If you need a cable barrel replacement, and can´t find one of ours, then a KS (kindshock) one will do the trick. It´s the same exact one.


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## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

I hang my bike up by the front wheel in a Steadyrack, and everytime i ride my bike after its been hanging for a few days I have to use the revive feature to fix a spongy post. Yes the revive feature fixes it, BUT I did not expect to have to "fix" a spongy post every ride.

Anyone else run into this and have any pointers?


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## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

If you hang the bike with the front wheel up, then this is normal. Extending the post before hanging it on the wall can help. 
However, I usually recommend to store the post dropped by just a few millimeter, to prevent "locking up" due to big temperature changes.


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## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

Nat said:


> What does it mean when the post extension speed slows down considerably? Mine used to pop up with a crisp, solid "whack" but lately it's sluggish like a Reverb.
> 
> The only abnormality I saw before the speed change was that the reset switch became sticky.
> 
> I had the post serviced this summer.





Nat said:


> Post is at 260psi minus anything that might've leaked out when I removed the shock pump. The rebound speed is still super slow like sludge.





Nat said:


> I read just the first entry of the troubleshooting page but not the entire thing. I was hoping to avoid opening up the post as I no longer enjoy wrenching on my own bikes. This summer I dropped it off at the LBS, who sent it in to you guys for service because they said they didn't want to deal with it, so I figured that if the shop didn't want to do it then I probably didn't want to either. That step of removing the circlip to wipe down the foam ring doesn't sound too challenging but if it needs another service already I think I'll just send it back in again over the winter.
> 
> Thanks for responding, sacki.


I wanted to follow up on my earlier queries. My bike was put away for the winter and I just started riding again. Lo and behold, over the winter the Revive didn't miraculously rid itself of the slow extension issue I wrote about earlier.

I pumped it up to 250psi. No better.

I pumped it up to 275psi. No better.

I opened it up and wiped down the foam ring. No better. Maybe even worse (much slower extension).

I put a couple of drops of lube on the stanchion. WHACK! All better! Rapid extension just like it was when new.

I did a happy dance.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Nat said:


> I wanted to follow up on my earlier queries. My bike was put away for the winter and I just started riding again. Lo and behold, over the winter the Revive didn't miraculously rid itself of the slow extension issue I wrote about earlier.
> 
> I pumped it up to 250psi. No better.
> 
> ...


Every time I've done a service (which isn't many) the post has been absolutely awesome afterwards and usually holds onto it for longer than a season...sometimes two.


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## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

Jayem said:


> Every time I've done a service (which isn't many) the post has been absolutely awesome afterwards and usually holds onto it for longer than a season...sometimes two.


I'm not sure why mine was so sticky after the service but I hope it'll be good for another couple of seasons.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Nat said:


> I'm not sure why mine was so sticky after the service but I hope it'll be good for another couple of seasons.


If it was sticky, I'd tear it down, clean it out with alcohol, and start over again with grease. Possibly the wrong kind of grease? I know you said the shop "sent it in", but that seems a little suspect given how this post works. I'd be doubting whether the post was opened up and actually serviced. In the scheme of servicing components and suspension, I give this about a 5, while things like charger damper rebuilds are more like a 7, and Fox is more like a 10...for the home mechanic. The way this works, there's not much in there that can be binding, only surfaces that need lubrication. But if things are really binding, it's going to self-destruct quick and you'll be finding metal shavings inside. Otherwise, I put my money on not really serviced/lubed, especially with your comment about doing some surface lube. I dunno...something doesn't seem to add up here.


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## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

Jayem said:


> If it was sticky, I'd tear it down, clean it out with alcohol, and start over again with grease. Possibly the wrong kind of grease? I know you said the shop "sent it in", but that seems a little suspect given how this post works. I'd be doubting whether the post was opened up and actually serviced. In the scheme of servicing components and suspension, I give this about a 5, while things like charger damper rebuilds are more like a 7, and Fox is more like a 10...for the home mechanic. The way this works, there's not much in there that can be binding, only surfaces that need lubrication. But if things are really binding, it's going to self-destruct quick and you'll be finding metal shavings inside. Otherwise, I put my money on not really serviced/lubed, especially with your comment about doing some surface lube. I dunno...something doesn't seem to add up here.


I suppose I have no way of confirming whether or not the LBS actually sent it in to Bike Yoke (or BTI) but I took it on faith that they did. The grease buildup that caused me to take it to the shop in the first place isn't there any more, so that's a plus, but maybe it's dry inside? I think I'll ride it a few times and see if it gets sticky again and if so I'll have a look inside. I have the mechanical skills but I just really dislike wrenching any more. I will if I have to. Thanks for thinking through this problem.


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## aajiikoo (Apr 27, 2020)

Well well, never before I have managed to break a seatpost in ~30 years of riding but I quess there's the first time for everything:







I've had this post for 5 months and my weight is only 75 kg. And it has been only lightly trail ridden so far because of long and snowy winter. Pretty scary stuff since I almost stabbed myself when it broke without any warning just when I was lowering it before a steep downhill section.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Did your post develop any creaking before breaking? Mine creaked for about two months then snapped. I thought it was my seat creaking and ignored the creak.


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## aajiikoo (Apr 27, 2020)

Yes, there was some creaking but I thought it was coming from saddle rails. But apparently not...


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

aajiikoo said:


> Well well, never before I have managed to break a seatpost in ~30 years of riding but I quess there's the first time for everything:
> I've had this post for 5 months and my weight is only 75 kg. And it has been only lightly trail ridden so far because of long and snowy winter. Pretty scary stuff since I almost stabbed myself when it broke without any warning just when I was lowering it before a steep downhill section.


better write it there - https://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-info-tipps-tricks-troubleshooting-1087156.html


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## aajiikoo (Apr 27, 2020)

aajiikoo said:


> Yes, there was some creaking but I thought it was coming from saddle rails. But apparently not...


Just an update: I was contacted by Sacki and was told that I'll receive a new replacement post. The customer service of Bikeyoke seems to be top-notch!


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

customer service is top notch 

but I am thinking proactive recall/replacement program...mine is of the era that may snap but hasn't yet, love the revive hands down greatest ever... but now paranoid


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

127.0.0.1 said:


> customer service is top notch
> 
> but I am thinking proactive recall/replacement program...mine is of the era that may snap but hasn't yet, love the revive hands down greatest ever... but now paranoid


What era are we talking ? I acquired my 185 in early 2018 I believe.


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## onlybirdman (Feb 12, 2015)

Received my Revive 2.0


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

onlybirdman said:


> Received my Revive 2.0


I've had mine for a couple months, really nice post and the upper tube seems less likely to snap off due to being one solid part. Shame they didn't address the creaking seat clamp.


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## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

*exact same catastrophic failure of Bike Yoke Revive dropper seatpost*

Exact same thing happened to me - I weigh only 140 lb. Two years old Bike Yoke Revive -]never crashed, never hung by saddle, etc. Merely went to sit on saddle to lower it on trail and it snapped off right there at the head. Thankfully no sharp shards. 
Interestingly, 5 years ago my carbon KS post snapped in half - the entire mast - it was less than one year old, again I was merely sitting to lower - huge shard barely missed my femoral artery. Never crashed it, etc. KS sent new one with this message: "Courtesy crash replacement" - talk about CYA - I think there should be a recall on both of these. I also had the aluminum bottom piece that holds the saddle post snap in half on another KS. Dirtlabs does Bike Yoke warranties and is replacing - apparently this is a known Revive issue and the upgrade has a one-piece machined head. I'd like to know how often this type of catastrophic failure is happening - I came close to bleeding out on the trail from KS.


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