# DIY Dinotte Style



## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I used some parts from Lowes to create a Dinotte style 200L. 

1. Hollow 1" Aluminum round tube. Not 3/4" like the picture shows.
2. Nibco 3/4" brass plug
3. Bar end plug from Cinelli handlebar tape

I AA'd a Cree LED to the brass plug and then AA'd the brass plug to the inside of the Aluminum tube. When the Arctic Alumina (AA) dried, I used some black RTV to seal the front lens and the tail plug. The handle bar plug end fits perfect inside the brass Nebco fitting.

I can't wait to try it out!


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## rockymtnway (Nov 14, 2004)

Nice. Very clean looking finished product.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Very cool looking light!

I have a few questions if you don't mind.
What driver and battery are you using? 
Seeing that it's only 3.7volts you could probably power this thing with some fairly cheap batteries. 

Another question, where did you get that "rubberband" to hold the light to your bars? I was thinking maybe one of those old vacuum cleaner belts or something. 

Did you have to file down the end of that copper slug to get it to fit inside the housing? In the interest of saving weight you could probably cut that thing in half and still have plenty of surface area for heat dissipation.


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## hideano (Aug 20, 2004)

*rubber band*

any big hardware store will have a large selection

its an o-ring. there are many many sizes metric and US..


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I'm using a buck/boost converter from Sandwich Shoppe.
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=961

I'm using a spare o-ring from my Dinotte and 4 AA batteries for power. I did have to file down the end of the copper slug. It's a tight fit so it works out perfect.

If i make it any smaller then I don't think it will fit well on the bars. It's a little shorter then my 200L. My 200L doesn't move at all while riding so I hope this DYI setup is the same.


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## mofoki (Feb 1, 2005)

I'm interested in that copper plug. Is that the heatsink? Where did you get it? If that is solid copper I could push a K2 to the 1500mA they say it will do. Does everything size good for a good fit inside that tube you're using?


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

What driver would you use to push the K2 emitters to 1500mA? 
The most I've seen is a 1200mA driver.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Here's a poor diagram showing how it fits together. It's a tight fit! The copper plug is hollow so the driver fits inside. The diameter of the housing is the same size as the bar end plug.


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## smacmillin (Dec 5, 2007)

I've been looking for a compact design for a single Lux III tail light and this would work great! A couple of questions:


What optic did you use?
Did you use a star?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I'm going to make a tail light next. This came out better then I expected. 

1. I used a Cree 8 degree 20mm optic. Any of the 20mm or smaller optics will fit perfect.
2. I used a Cree LED mounted on a star. The star fits perfect without any filing.


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## jims (Aug 3, 2004)

p97z,

Very nice! That has got to be one of the simplest and most effective led DIY's I have ever come across. Thanks for posting so much info.


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## rockymtnway (Nov 14, 2004)

I'd like to see you use one of those triple Rebels with this design. 300 lumens @ 350ma or 540 lumens at 700ma would seem to be the ideal single LED to use for a compact headlamp. Still, sourcing optics is a bear and I'm having to modify optics to get what I want. Something to think about though...


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks jims!

I'm making another one and this time i'll post more pictures.


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## brum (Dec 19, 2004)

rockymtnway said:


> I'd like to see you use one of those triple Rebels with this design. 300 lumens @ 350ma or 540 lumens at 700ma would seem to be the ideal single LED to use for a compact headlamp. Still, sourcing optics is a bear and I'm having to modify optics to get what I want. Something to think about though...


Not enough mass and surface to accomodate 3 LEDs at higher currents.


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## mofoki (Feb 1, 2005)

The Shark driver can be altered to push up to 2 amps. Heatsinking is the issue. Read in the Candlepower forums.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

1. Cut the hollow Aluminum tube to 2 inches.
2. The copper plug is a little too big to fit in the aluminum. Use a rough file or a Dremel to remove the outer lip.
3. The Aluminum housing needs a way to sit on the handle bars. Cut a round grove in the bottom using a round file or a Dremel with a round sanding attachment. Align the grove so the housing is centered. For over sized bars you may need to make the grove larger.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

4. Put two small groves in the top of the aluminum housing using a small round file. This will keep the rubber mounting o-ring from slipping.
5. Sand the housing using some fine sand paper. You can polish it if you want.
6. Align the LED in the center of the copper plug. I'm using a Seoul with an L2 optic. It's easier to use a star because you only have to drill one hole.
7. Epoxy (Arctic Alumina) the LED to the copper plug. I also use silicone RTV to keep the wires from shorting against the copper plug.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

8. Secure the optic holder to the copper plug. I let a little dry on the sides of the holder to make a snug fit. The L2 optics are a little smaller then the housing.
9. Mix some AA adhesive and apply a thin coat to the copper slug. Slide the copper plug in the aluminum housing and let dry. Leave enough room at the front to allow a bead of silicone.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

10. Wire your favorite driver and insert the bar plug.
11. Put some silicone on the front lens and your done.


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

Hey, now we all have a use for the leftovers when we shortened our handlebars!


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

Hi, solder you the leds directly to the copper??  Where you put the constant current circuit??

Great job.

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## Homebrew (Jan 2, 2004)

SWEET!!! I need to go to HomeDepot ASAP!

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

msxtr said:


> Hi, solder you the leds directly to the copper??  Where you put the constant current circuit??


No! The LED leads are not on the copper... I soldered wires to them then used silicone to keep them from shorting on the copper. The circuit is right in front of the zip tie. I use the zip to as a strain relief just in case the battery wire gets pulled.


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## mofoki (Feb 1, 2005)

Eat that Niterider. You're probably going to get more light out of your home-build than those Niterider MiNewt lights if you drive the leds right. Good job fella.:thumbsup:


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

cdn-dave said:


> Hey, now we all have a use for the leftovers when we shortened our handlebars!


Now there's an idea! :thumbsup:


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

It's amazing what a Dremel and some aluminum polish can do! I can almost see myself in the reflection!


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## eddielee70 (Dec 28, 2006)

That look great, from two meter away, you can't tell if that is really dinotte or not. great info.....thanx


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks! Now, if I could only drill some holes in the top...


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## BigBlue (Oct 10, 2005)

I love the light. A few questions. Where did you purchase the cree optic from? Do you have an on/off switch for the light? Also, since I'm not an electrical engineer, how is the power connected to the buck/boost? Where does the + and - lead connect? Sorry for the dumb questions.


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## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on enough parts to build a few of these for me and a friend. I think I've got it figured out. I'm going with Cree stars and 800ma drivers from Dealextreme.

I'm looking at the Following parts for Optics and Holders. I'm having problems figuring out what optic and holder goes with what LED. Are these correct for this project? Should I go with 15 or 5 degree optics? I'm thinking I'll run two on the bar, one of each.

Luxeon III or V Star Optic Holder
20 mm 5 Degree Optic
20 mm 15 Degree Optic

I'm planning on adding a switch on the back and use my current 6V battery for them.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

If I can build this then anybody can... there is no such thing as a dumb question to me!

I got the optic from a group buy on CPF but you can get the same one here.

http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=1488

It's a little bigger than the aluminum housing so you'll need to sand the edges to make it fit. It makes a great spot beam with little side spill. It would make a great helmet light. On the bars i like a spot with a flood.

I've played with optics and my preference is 1 CREE with the 8 degree optic and 2 Seoul with 15 degree L2 optics. I have only done a short ride with the two lights i just built and the spot flood combo is great!

For converter boards I used the Buck/Boost @ 1 amp from Sandwich shop.

http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_49_61&products_id=961

I tested runtime using 2 Duracell 2650mAh AA NiMH batteries and the ran one hour and 40 mins of "useable" light. You could get some long runtime with this battery.
https://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1143

For the switch... i put it in the power cord. There is enough room to put a switch in the light but I didn't have a small one handy. At some point I will probably pull the bar plug out and add one.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

No! You can't use the Cree led's with the L2 optics! You need to use Seoul stars with the L2 
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445

I don't see the Cree 8 degree optic that I used at DealExtreme...

So you plan on running four of them? If so, you may want three with the 15 degrees and one with the 5 degree. The nice thing about making these lights is that you can pop out the optic and see which combo you like.

If you stick with the Seoul LED's and the L2 optics i think you'll be happy.


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## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

I'm confuzzled trying to figure out which optics and holders go with which LEDs. Is there a place on the web that explains which one goes with which? If the Seoul Use L2, which ones do the Cree's use? I thought it was the L3.

Thanks for the help in answering my stupid questions. I was hoping to get everything from dealextreme but it looks like they are out. I'd consider going with either Seoul or Cree if I could get the optics and drivers to match from dealextreme.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Cree takes a special optic designed for the Cree led. Seoul came out after cree and claimed to be a Luxeon replacement. I've been happy with the L2 and Seoul's.

One of the hardest things about building your own light is finding where to get the components. It's hard to find one place that sells everything you need.

http://www.kaidomain.com has some good stuff also. I see he has some multi mode drivers that you could play with.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Probably the best place on the web to get the information is through Candle Power Forums.

www.candlepowerforums.com

I found the optics I like through trial and error... and lots of error!


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## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

Is this the optic you used? KaiDoman has them 10 for 9.99

8 Degree Optic

If this is it then I'll get the Q5 Stars and drivers from dealextreme and the optics from Kai and I should be good to go. Thanks for all of the help with this.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

That's the right optic for the Cree but it doesn't have much flood. I think you'll want to mix that 8 degree with a Seoul and a 15 Degree L2.

Do you have any Arctic Alumina epoxy? If not get it from here http://www.ledsupply.com/asta-7g.php and get a few L2 15 degree optics with holders.


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## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

I'm going to get the epoxy which I new about. When you keep mentioning L2 Optics I don't see them at LED supply. I see Luxeon K2 on this page is that it. Do you have a link to the correct optics? I'm trying to go cheap and can't find a nice simple cross reference for optics and LED's.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Oh... Sorry, I wasn't clear. The optics for all the Luxeon LED's are the same. The optic snaps into the holder. The holder is different for each Lux.

You posted the correct links above. 
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php is for the wide beam.
and the Lux III holder
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php

You can use them with the Seoul.

Edit: They mention at www.ledsupply.com that they are called L2... I can't seem to find it though.


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## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

Thanks, in that case I think I'll go all Seoul to save a few bucks. Thanks for all of the help.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I agree... I think you'll be happier with the Seoul over the Cree.


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## eddielee70 (Dec 28, 2006)

problem with seoul from dealextreme is that they are not white in color like their Q5 are. even though they say it's color bin: SW0 - pure white), but it's not. I'm waiting on a order from Kaidomain to see if they are pure white. 
remember the 800ma $1.50 driver are driven at 1000ma at even 6v to one led, so you will likely have heat issues, unless you live in a cold climate and moving. do some indoor fan test for full 10 hours before you go out. unless you like to bike in the dark.
also http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=1603 for q5 are very narrow bright spot.


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## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

I know about the higher drive current for the driver. I'm going to give these a try, if I have heat/durability issues I'll go for another lower power driver. I'm usually moving for my rides and I'm going to take me chances.

I've ordered the Seouls, drivers and optics. I'm now in waiting mode to receive the parts.


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## eddielee70 (Dec 28, 2006)

have fun waiting, usually it's 3-4 week for stuff from dealextreme and kaidomain, here is what happen when you have overheating. it doesn't have overheat protection. it just go pop, light out and you smell the resister burning inside the housing.


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## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

I've dealt with Dealextreme for a couple of years and I know how long it will take. And if Achesalot is running the Seouls at 1000ma in his lights without a problem I don't think it will be a problem for me!


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

One nice thing about having multiple lights with separate drivers. If one goes out, there are a couple more lit. Where I ride the temperature is around freezing. I don't have any problems overheating.


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## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

Same here, It's cold on my night rides and I'm always moving. And your design has a good bit of thermal mass with both the aluminum and brass fittings. If it looks like they are too hot in testing I'll add an R/C car Heatsink to them. I doubt that will be a problem.


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## mofoki (Feb 1, 2005)

I have to dissagree with the Seoul's being better than the Cree's. I have three tripple systems that I run at 1000mA, one Seouls, one Crees, and one Luxeon K2s. The Crees put out the most light and a fairly white light. The K2s don't seem to be as bright but I like the color, and the Seouls start out with a white simular to an HID but quickly loose intensity and give a really bluish tint. The Cree's seem to need a stronger battery too. I can run the Seouls and K2s with an 11.1v pack but not the Crees. I need the 14.8v pack to run it. They all use the bFlex driver. Maybe if I get some time tonight I'll take some beam shots and post them.


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## eddielee70 (Dec 28, 2006)

I agree with mofoki on the led. SSC lost their color or not as white as Q5. the good thing about SSC u-bin is that their color stay the same "off white" for the 3 hour test I've ben doing. and they are half the price of Q5. Q5 stays white, I guess you get what you pay for. Where is Cree made at. SSC are made in Korea, right? lens for SSC are $1.75 from ledsupply. good optic for Q5 cost $3 plus expensive shipping from led-spot.com. anyone get optics cheaper? looking to build the cheapest, brightest 3 hour light with minimum work on housing under $80 with battery/charger.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I've had hit and miss luck with the Souls. With the Cree's however I haven't had good luck with optics.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Here's a start. You can add or subtract components from the list below.

Seoul LED $6.00
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445
Holder + Optic $2.00
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php
Optic
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php

Driver $21.50
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=961{1}2{2}2{7}5
Battery $19.99 
https://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1143
Charger $22.95
https://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=478
Coupon for 20% off all-battery
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?p=2102809
Adhesive $6.80
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=171
Copper Slug $3.50
Aluminum 4 Foot $9.99

Total (-wire and connector) $92.74
You'll get well over 3 hrs runtime.

If you use AA batteries it would be cheaper.


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## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

I'm going cheapo on my system. By using this controller as well as Seouls Mine should cost less than 25 bucks each not including battery. The controllers are basic no level units but I never use low or medium on my dinotte. I went Seoul because they are cheaper as well. I'm using my existing 6V battery or you could use a AA battery pack for cheap. This is an untested design but it looks like it will work.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I did a run time test using both lights and 4 AA batteries for each light. Duracell 2650mAh NiMH AA batteries. Both lights held strong for 2 hours and 30 minutes. The light slowly dropped off but was still going at 2 hours and 50 minutes. I kept a box fan on them and they never got hot... :thumbsup:


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## smacmillin (Dec 5, 2007)

I went to Lowes today and got the 3/4" plug (Nibco 616) like in your picture and also the tubing. However, I'm pretty sure that the tubing that you are using is not the 3/4" that you showed in your photo but is actually 1" aluminum tubing. The O.D. of the 3/4" plug is 7/8" and the O.D. of the 1" tube is 1.00" with an I.D. of just over 7/8". See pictures of the tubing that I got. Am I right?

I'm going to start by building several tail lights. I ordered red-orange Lux III and 5x20 degree oval optics from LED supply. I ordered this cheap driver from kaidomain. I'm going to run it off of 3 niNH AA cells. Other than that, I'm going to build it exactly like you.


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## smacmillin (Dec 5, 2007)

D'oh!! Here's the photos:

1" Aluminum Tube (Steelworks #11405)








3/4" (Nibco #616) Plug inserted into 1" Aluminum Tube (Steelworks #11405). Nice fit with just enough room for AA


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## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

I'm going a similar route with a cheap driver from Dealextreme. I haven't been to lowes yet. I'll be sure to measure the parts when I go pick them up. I don't think I'll do any hacking on the metal until everything arrives to make sure everything will fit.


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## spookydave (Jul 12, 2006)

p97z said:


> I've had hit and miss luck with the Souls. With the Cree's however I haven't had good luck with optics.


Have you tried Carclo Lens for the Cree's?

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut688


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I ordered some of those optics but never got them... After a month and a half I canceled the order. I used some Carclo's with Seoul and I liked the L2 a little better. With K2's and Lux V's the Carclo's were awesome!


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Strange... They are both exactly the same from what I can tell. The Lowes near me had both of them. The only difference I can tell is that one is 3 feet long and the other is 8 feet. Maybe one is labeled wrong? It looks like either will work.


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## thebronze (Jan 13, 2004)

This is the cleanest DIY housing style yet. Would it be possible to skip the optics, put the LED's right on the copper plug, and run 3 of them as a flood? I have a killer spot light right now and need a bar flood. Can you run multiple LED's off one driver?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks thebronze!

You could make a light without the optic if you want but the 15 degree makes a great flood. http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php Two of them are great!

You would also want to put something in front to protect the LED.

If you want to run more then one LED then it's up to the driver. The sandwich shop has a shark driver or taskled.com has a multi driver. You'll have to check the specs to see which ones can be used.


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## Kingdomseeder (Jun 10, 2006)

Does anybody have any beam shots yet? I am wondering what to do for a handlebar light and this is looking like it would be simple enough for me to build!


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## rockymtnway (Nov 14, 2004)

Without a lens, I think thebronze will be pretty disappointed with the light produced. Think about a 40w light bulb in a chandelier and how little light it really gives off. In that case you've got roughly 600 lumens and it barely lights up a room because the light is going in all directions (360 degrees). With the Cree and Seoul LEDs, you have less than half that light per LED, and it comes out of the LED at 160-180 degrees. The reason LEDs appear so bright is because good optics concentrate that light into 10-25 degrees, where you need it. One LED with no optic is only putting 1/10th the light directly in front of you as the same LED with a 15 degree optic. The rest is lost ot lighting up your front tire and outer space.


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## rockymtnway (Nov 14, 2004)

What about adding 2-3 of those RC car motor heatsinks to the outside?










Just a thought. Sure, you lose some of the simplicity of the design and sleekness, but it dramatically increases the surface area.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*This is great!*



rockymtnway said:


> Nice. Very clean looking finished product.


I recently bought a bunch of these to keep around the house and in the car:

https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93712










They're cheap, and run forever on a set of batteries.

THe whole thing is machined alu, and screws together... each piece. The LED array is all based on about a 20mm form factor, like the LED elements y'all are using.

I'm thinking of ordering up some parts, optics, driver board... drilling some holes, AA Epoxy a copper slug behind the LED board. Run it all off my 4AH 6v NiteRider Headtrip battery. I'm thinking it can look pretty pro, and without spending crazy amounts of dough to do it. Zip a couple of round grooves in there for a rubber band type bar mount, or maybe drill and tap a screw mount for my NR Headtrip mount.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Here are some beam shots... Sorry, they were taken against a light blue wall. 

On the left is a Cree with 8 degree optics. Middle is a Dinotte. Right is 15 degree L2.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

1. Cree 8 degree.
2. Seoul L2 15 Degree
3. Dinotte
4. Seoul 5 Degree L2


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## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

Wowza! I'm really looking forward to getting mine built. They look better than the Dinottes IMHO!


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

VaughnA, You'll be glad you went with Seoul and the L2 optics...


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## mjzraz (Oct 8, 2005)

A comment or two and a question:
First, great light, great design and great step by step.

Beaten to death in this thread, but that driver you used is on the pricey side for my budget on a single LED light. I have had good luck with this one from Dealextreme. I got 3-4 hours on high with three new 2600mah AA nimh's. at 72 degrees inside with no moving air it got pretty warm, but in front of the heat vent with moving air it stayed cool as can be. Outside it was ice cold.

My question is how do you keep the driver exposed wiring/components from touching the housing? I put a bead of silicone on mine in a few places and covered the + totally, but on my taillight, I had it stop working the other day, pulled the wiring out of the housing and it started working again. There were no broken wires. I wonder if I should just cover the whole driver in clear silicone?


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

Electrical tape, heatshrink tubing or liquid electrical tape.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

mjzraz,

I think the trick for intermittent problems is to keep the power wire from moving. I've had problems with another light where the power wire would rotate or move inside the housing and cause problems. I put a nice gob of silicone on the driver and the wire where it goes into the body. I also add a zip tie to the inside power cable which acts as a strain relief and gives the silicone something bond to. Basically I silicone everything...

Thanks for the tip on the driver. I had a bunch of stuff laying around from some projects I did last year. The only thing I purchased for this project was the aluminum bar and copper plugs. I just bought some more stuff from deal extreme so I could make a couple more of these.


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## toyota200x (Sep 9, 2005)

Very Classy and professional light. I love it.


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## btc (Mar 20, 2006)

p97z,
Great job ! very nice & clean look to the light. Thank you for sharing.

Some questions before I built one for the bike. I'm going to use this light as a tail light.

1- Do you have a picture of the switch (light - switch - battery) & where did you buy the switch?
2- Do they make a bright RED led for tail light? If not I can use a red len in front of the light.
3- Is a 15 degree len a good angle for a tail light ?
4- I see that you have posted 3-4 different web site to order parts from. Is there one site that I can order all the parts to save on the shipping ? 

Thanks!


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks toyota200x and btc!

1. I'm still looking for the perfect switch so for now I put the switch on the power connector. I'm looking for a push button but having problems finding one small enough.
2. Yes, they make red LED's. I just ordered a Red Cree from here. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1776
3. I think an L2 15 degree would make a great angle for a tail light. You could use a Red Luxeon.
4. As far as I know there isn't just one site to get everything from. 

Here's some pictures of the power connectors and switch. I don't like the stitch on the cord... it's hard to find and doesn't work well with gloves.


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## btc (Mar 20, 2006)

p97z,

You are using 4AA battery that = 6v. I forgot to mention, I'm planning to use my existing Li-ion 7.2V 5.5ah rechargable battery. Is this too much volt for the driver or circuit to the LED ?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

btc, It depends on the driver circuit. Which driver circuit are you going to use?


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## btc (Mar 20, 2006)

p97z, I'm looking at these SOB series on the bottom of this page (see link below). It have a max volt input up to 16v, so my 7.2v battery should be OK for this? this is getting too technical for me:madman:

http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php?cPath=48_49_61&page=2


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

btc,

That looks fine. I've got a downboy (the old version of the SOB) in a couple lights. I ran them off of 9.6 V. A 7.2v should work fine!

Just be careful not to reverse polarity. Make sure you use connectors that can't be plugged in backwards. I learned the hard way. I blew up a downboy ...


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## btc (Mar 20, 2006)

p97z, I'm also looking at this one post up by VaughnA, it a better price. See link below.
I'm going to put a list of all the parts together this weekend.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256


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## smacmillin (Dec 5, 2007)

I understand that the brightest LED for a tail light is a red orange Luxeon III LXHL-LH3C which is typically 190 lm at 1.4 A http://luxeon.com/products/line.cfm?lineId=2
You can get it here for $8 http://www.ledsupply.com/lxhl-lh3c.php

I believe that this is much brighter than any Cree red LED. For example, the Cree XR in red-orange is only 30 to 40 lm and in red is only 18 to 31 lm. http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampLEDcolorBrief.pdf

I am currently building a Dinotte Style tail light with the Lux III and will report back when it is finished.


----------



## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

btc, I ordered some of those drivers also. For the price you can't go wrong.

smacmillin, Thanks for the tip on red led's. I had a red Lux III and tired to make a sandwich with it. I got frustrated with the sandwich (led with driver board combo) and decided to take it apart. When I took it apart I broke the red LED. In the end I used the driver for this light...

For a tail light I wanted a flashing mode so ordered some multi mode drivers from here. http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=3151

btc, you may want to look at that driver also...


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## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

p97 It's looking like you have another classic design like achesalot and the pond scum project. Thanks for the design. I'm going to have to wait another 2 weeks for my dealextreme stuff, I"m going to go crazy. I'd like to go ahead and work on the housings while waiting for the parts. Do you know how long I'll need to make the aluminum outer when using a star? I'm making 4 units so I'd like to get a head start. 

You Da Man!


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

VaughnA, Thanks for the compliment!

Cut the aluminum housing to 2 in = 5.1 cm. Don't glue the copper housing into the aluminum tube though. The depth of the copper slug is what's different for the type of LED (star, non-star, Cree, Seoul, Luxeon, etc). When you file down the lip on the copper slug be careful not to round it off or file too much. If you file too much of the copper slug, it can crack. You have to grind a lot to do it but it's worth mentioning.

I’m waiting for some parts also so I know how you feel…


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

Popper252 said:


> What driver would you use to push the K2 emitters to 1500mA?
> The most I've seen is a 1200mA driver.


Hi, for my "N5" with 2 luxeon K2 (olds) I use this driver to 1500 ma



















Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

smacmillin is right... This is 1 inch round tube not 3/4 like the picture shows. The piece I bought must be marked wrong!  Sorry for any confusion.


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## smacmillin (Dec 5, 2007)

For a tail light I wanted a flashing mode so ordered some multi mode drivers from here. http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=3151

btc, you may want to look at that driver also...[/QUOTE]

Question about this and other multi-mode drivers: How do you switch between modes? Is it with a momentary switch on specific contacts on the board? Or is it by switching on and off the power?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

smacmillin said:


> Question about this and other multi-mode drivers: How do you switch between modes? Is it with a momentary switch on specific contacts on the board? Or is it by switching on and off the power?


I think you switch between modes by switching the power on and off. You need to switch the power on and off for no longer then two seconds. I'll let you know for sure when I get one.


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## btc (Mar 20, 2006)

p97z, Thanks for verify the tube size, I'm glad I did not buy the tube yet. BTW. Nice measuring tool. I use the cressent wrench and a ruler.


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## plasticmann (May 7, 2006)

p97z

Great design. Very keen to give it a go. I’ve always liked the simplicity of the Dinotte light and this is much better.

Only problem I’m in OZ so need to find some local alternatives.

Our local equiv to Lowes has some 25mm Alum tube but the actual thickness of the wall looks pretty thin compared to yours. This maybe an issue in terms of filing the grooves for the O-Rings and where it sits on the bar – as it looks like you would not have to go too deep to go through the wall. Would it possible for you to measure the thickness of the walls so I can check.

Any help appreciated.

Cheers – Richard.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*You can get those....*



btc said:


> p97z, Thanks for verify the tube size, I'm glad I did not buy the tube yet. BTW. Nice measuring tool. I use the cressent wrench and a ruler.


... at Harbor freight for like $20... $15 when they are on sale. They rule. I have Hope Mono Mini brakes that use a shim stack to set the alignment. Using a caliper makes that process a one or two try 5 minute process. Before using a caliper, it was more like 15 minutest to half an hour of adding and removing shims.

https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47256


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Interesting...*



p97z said:


> smacmillin is right... This is 1 inch round tube not 3/4 like the picture shows. The piece I bought must be marked wrong!  Sorry for any confusion.


Pipe size is usually the inside diameter. Fine with me, as long as I know what I'm getting.

Hit another snag last night. I found another slightly bigger Harbor Freight flashlight I thought would work. It was bigger, but still didn't work.

I think I should just do the pipe and copper plug thing like you did.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*I like this one:*



rockymtnway said:


> What about adding 2-3 of those RC car motor heatsinks to the outside?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


https://stores.channeladvisor.com/rc-toys-hobbies/Items/hi-acc3921?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

plasticman,

It's not real thick. You really don't need much to hold the rubber bands in place.


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## plasticmann (May 7, 2006)

p97z

thanks. much appreciated. The standrd in Oz for wall thinkness seems to be 1.6mm for both copper and Al pipe so the one I saw should be OK based on your measurement. I just need to find some copper plugs to suit and I'm off. (after I order some stuff from DX and Kaidomain). Thanks for flicking the switch to mm as well. Saved me a conversion !!

Thanks again - richard.


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## TheFunkyMonkey (Sep 18, 2007)

Just been browsing the Dinotte website out of interest, they have some reasonably priced spare parts available, inc a good bar mount for $9 Here


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

TheFunkyMonkey, Good catch! I may use the tail light mount for a red light.


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## TheFunkyMonkey (Sep 18, 2007)

Wouldn't have been there without your inspiration p97z!

The battery kits are pretty good value with charger, battery bag and cables inc too


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Nice!*



TheFunkyMonkey said:


> Wouldn't have been there without your inspiration p97z!
> 
> The battery kits are pretty good value with charger, battery bag and cables inc too


... and here I was gonna fabricate my own helmet mount. I have a NR Headtrip, and a spare mount shoe. I was gonna make a bracket of some sort between them to hold two of these lights.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

If you are looking for a battery I just bought this...

https://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2147

and this charger...

https://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=478

Enter coupon code: "independence" and get 7% off and free shipping. :thumbsup:


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

First off, nice job on the light!!!! I have been lurking on this board for a couple of months and finally decided to pull the plug and order all the stuff for my own light... using your design (which is the cleanest, simpliest one that I have seen so far!!!)

So I ordered all the parts for it today, based on your parts list that was posted a little while ago and I think that I may have made an error... let me know if this is going to work or if I should get a different battery.

Parts list:

SSC P4 leds
the 4 pack of driver boards from Deal Extreme (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256)
2 batteries... one 2200 mah and one 4400 mah 7.4v lith ion battery
Charger
A bunch of optics and holders
(I have a ton of nightrider cables and connectors, so I am going to use those for the wiring and connections)

The question that I have... with the driver and one led and the battery voltage of 7.4v, will that work ok or will it toast the led? Do I need to have a lower voltage battery to use this board with just one led?

Also, will one of these drivers run 2 leds?

Sorry for the newbie questions, but I just wanted to make sure I was not going to cook the led... I am not a very good cook!!!


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

tamen00 said:


> The question that I have... with the driver and one led and the battery voltage of 7.4v, will that work ok or will it toast the led? Do I need to have a lower voltage battery to use this board with just one led?
> 
> Also, will one of these drivers run 2 leds?


tamen00, Thanks!

You should be good with the driver and battery combo you chose. It looks like you can go up to 9V with that driver. The driver will keep the LED from burning up so don't worry. I will be using the same setup. :thumbsup:

The driver spec doesn't say how many LED's that board will drive but I am willing to bet you can only drive one at a time.

I see somebody added a schematic diagram and explained how to boost the efficiency at higher voltages.  I may play with adding some capacitors when I get mine. By boosting the efficiency you can get a little longer run time.


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## TheFunkyMonkey (Sep 18, 2007)

p97z, I got the same charger with the 6600 battery, good value from all-battery. Cost me about £55 (about $110) to the UK inc duty.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

6600 NICE! That should give several hours of runtime! If I ever outlast my 4400... I'll buy one of those. The price sure is right.


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

Thanks a lot for the additional information! One other question... the batteries say that they have a protection circuit built in to save the batteries from over discharge. What will happen when the batteries start running low? Will the light gradually dim until it goes out? Will that ruin the batteries? Also, I used one of the run time calculators I found online and it said that I would gat a little over 2 hours of runtime for the 2200 mah battery and about double for the 4400 mah battery... does that sound about right?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

tamen00 said:


> Thanks a lot for the additional information! One other question... the batteries say that they have a protection circuit built in to save the batteries from over discharge. What will happen when the batteries start running low? Will the light gradually dim until it goes out? Will that ruin the batteries?


I haven't tested with that battery yet but I believe the protection circuit will just shut off. The light will just go out when the battery gets below the cut off voltage. The protection circuit keeps the battery from over discharging so the battery won't get destroyed. Lithium batteries are picky about overcharge and discharge. The protection circuit also keeps the battery from burning up if the battery were to short out.



tamen00 said:


> Also, I used one of the run time calculators I found online and it said that I would gat a little over 2 hours of runtime for the 2200 mah battery and about double for the 4400 mah battery... does that sound about right?


I think your calculations sound about right. I plan on using the 7.4v 4400mah battery with two lights. I calculate a little over two hours with two running at 1000ma.

I've been using 4AA 2650mah batteries on each light and I get 2.5 hrs runtime.


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## qdave (Jun 5, 2007)

I was thinking about using a flashlight body like this:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1255

to build a similar light. I like that it has a decent switch built in.
The aluminum body on this light seems a little thin, though. Do you think that will pose a problem? The filed down copper plug fits inside ok and I have other parts on the way from HK.


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## thaphillips (Sep 1, 2007)

I don't know much about the boards used to power the lights, but this is what I want to use. Please tell me if you see any problems.

*Cree XR-E Q5 Emitter on Premium Star (228LM at 1A)

8 Degree CREE XR-E Collimator Lens w/ Holder

Downboy 400mA Stepdown Converter Board-Rev. 3

I also have questions about batteries.


*4 Tenergy Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600 mAh Rechargeable Batteries with Internal PCB

or this?

http://www.maxamps.com/Lipo-3100HV-74-Pack.htm

If I use the AA batteries should I get a diffrent board since they have an automatic cut off?


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

4 tenergy li-ion is the way to go. Safer than the lipo. It is not an AA battery but an 18650 cell which is fatter and longer. Dont remove the board. Dont forget to get the charger. 


Anyway that is still a lot of battery for only 1 light. Something like 8-10 hrs depending on the board efficiency.


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## super-fast (Sep 28, 2006)

With only 400 mA it is more going to be 25 hours, I would push the led to 1A and use a 2 cell li-ion battery. (runtime will be at least 4 hours). You'd need to choose a batterypack that is wired in series (so it gives 7.4V nominal).


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## thaphillips (Sep 1, 2007)

Should I be using a diffrent board? Is 400 mA going to be bright enough?


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## thaphillips (Sep 1, 2007)

My main concern is I want a bright light, that runs cool. I also want a cut off on the batteries so I don't ruin them by running them to long. 

I understand if I have to pay a little more for quality.

What do you suggest for board and batteries?


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## Homebrew (Jan 2, 2004)

thaphillips said:


> My main concern is I want a bright light, that runs cool. I also want a cut off on the batteries so I don't ruin them by running them to long.
> 
> I understand if I have to pay a little more for quality.
> 
> What do you suggest for board and batteries?


750mA is a good compromise with very good efficiency but doesn't get that hot. There is no reason to limit yourself to that low brightness. Even with a 2000mAh pack 14.4V, Vf of 3.7V, at 750mA and a driver at 85% efficiency, you can still get almost 9 hours of burn time. If you spend the extra bucks to get a higher capacity pack at 2600mAh, you get ~11.5 hours.


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## Wadejp (Dec 28, 2007)

p97z said:


> 10. Wire your favorite driver and insert the bar plug.
> 11. Put some silicone on the front lens and your done.


P97Z,

That is a great light and something I may be able to do.

I do have a couple of questions if you have the time to respond it would be appreciated.

1) I do not see where you used any Plexiglas to seal the leans is that not required? If you did how thick can it be without affecting the light distribution.
2) How far back did you recess the front of the lens? I assume that if it is too far back the light distribution would be affected.

Thanks for sharing

Jim


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

qdave said:


> I was thinking about using a flashlight body like this:
> 
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1255
> 
> ...


I haven't had good luck with flashlights... It may work though. If you try it be sure to let us know.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

thaphillips said:


> *Cree XR-E Q5 Emitter on Premium Star (228LM at 1A)
> 
> 8 Degree CREE XR-E Collimator Lens w/ Holder
> 
> ...


*

400ma is not enough current... 750ma or greater would be better... 400ma with a narrow 8 degree spot will probably not work well.



thaphillips said:



I also have questions about batteries.




Click to expand...

*


thaphillips said:


> 4 Tenergy Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600 mAh Rechargeable Batteries with Internal PCB


I don't know how you could use them. There is no battery holder that I know of that takes 18650 batteries.


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## eddielee70 (Dec 28, 2006)

400ma is ok. it's great for efficient battery use. but downboy driver Efficiency is only 75%-85% is not good. the difference b/w 500ma and 1000ma is led output b/w 7lux and 9.5lux per led. I got 21.5lux out of Trinewt. my setup was 27lux running 500ma to all 4 led on q5. now it's 37lux running 1000ma. now the bad. the batteries life is cut in half. only gain 35% gain in brightness from 50% more use of battery. most gain is when you power it up to 600ma, then after that it's more energy to heat then lighting up the led. this is the still the best deal and most effecient driver at 90%. I order 60 of them by mistake, was waning to keep it coming until I think I order too much of it.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

60!! Wow!  I just got 4 but haven't tried them yet.


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## eddielee70 (Dec 28, 2006)

p97z said:


> 60!! Wow!  I just got 4 but haven't tried them yet.


ever mod your maglite with these, went from 3100lux to 17600lux( tested light box) with ssc u-bin driven by these $1.50 driver. I'm mod all my lights and my brother in law's. They love it. 5 times more light( battery last longer as I don't know how long) and you can even control the beam pattern like regular mag lite( 3D or 3C minimum though). depending on what kind of riding you do. we have tight twisty trails here, so I have been switching out lens to suit my trails that I run that night. oval for tight twisty, medium for regular trails and spot for road ride and fast pace dirt logging roads.


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## mjzraz (Oct 8, 2005)

*COPPER is Expensive!*

I just went to Lowes and looked at the 8' section of Aluminum and I thought the price was like the 10-$15 range (I don't remember) But I could not find the Nibco 3/4"plug even with help. 
I went over to Home Depot and they had 4' sections of the aluminum tube and they did have the Nibco fittings, but they were $3.75 each!! I asked if that was right when checking out and the cashier said the price of copper has gone up a lot. I thought they might be $1 or so. I wonder if there is a cheaper option like 3/4" aluminum rod.

I am thinking of a dual version possibly like the attached, but not sure if there is an advantage other than looks (subjective, I know) vs two separate heads with the o-ring mounting
-Mike


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

If you could find 3/4 aluminum it should work. I just bought a couple of Nibco plugs last night and they were $3.87 each.:eekster: For some reason only Home Depot sells them.

If you have a drill press you could use a 1 inch and 1/8 hole drill bit and make some aluminum plugs.

I got creative last night and put the switch in the tail cap. I used a plug from a sliding closet door.  I'll post some pictures later tonight. You may be able to use the sliding closet door plug...

I like the look of the double! How do you plan on holding them together? JB Weld?


----------



## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I got creative with the switch. I used a toggle from radio shack and a pull knob from a sliding closet door.  The switch is set back to help keep it from the elements.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Wadejp said:


> P97Z,
> 
> That is a great light and something I may be able to do.
> 
> ...


Jim, Sorry for the long delay. I just saw this unanswered post.

I didn't use any Plexiglas. The optic is out in the open. I just used a layer of silicone to keep the water from getting inside. So far it's been trough salt and snow and it's still working great. You want to put if far enough back to put a good layer of silicone on it. If it's too far back then the plug won't fit. I would say it's about 2 mm back.

Also I found a perfect way to mount the switch. I posted pictures at the end.


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## mjzraz (Oct 8, 2005)

p97z said:


> If you could find 3/4 aluminum it should work. I just bought a couple of Nibco plugs last night and they were $3.87 each.:eekster: For some reason only Home Depot sells them.
> If you have a drill press you could use a 1 inch and 1/8 hole drill bit and make some aluminum plugs.


 Not following what you mean here...



p97z said:


> I got creative last night and put the switch in the tail cap. I used a plug from a sliding closet door.  I'll post some pictures later tonight. You may be able to use the sliding closet door plug...
> I like the look of the double! How do you plan on holding them together? JB Weld?


Can you buy replacement pulls like that? Where? What switch is that you are using?
I was planning on JB weld I think. I tried some destructive testing after curing for 24 hours for 2 pieces of aluminum bonded with JB weld. I had to give it a few good whacks with the hammer do get it to break apart.


----------



## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

mjzraz said:


> Not following what you mean here...


If you have a drill press you can use a hole saw like this.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...Id=10053&productId=100495351&N=10000003+90054

Cut a circle out of some flat aluminum and epoxy it in the tube instead of the copper plug. I think the size you need is an inch and 1/8. You will need to file it down a little to make it fit.



mjzraz said:


> Can you buy replacement pulls like that? Where? What switch is that you are using?


Home depot has them with the door hardware. You can get them in different colors. They come in packs of four for about $2.50. I don't see them on the HD web site though. I think they will be too thin for the LED though.

The switch i used is from radio shack. I think this is the one.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...r=1&origkw=switch&kw=switch&parentPage=search

I added a piece of heat shrink to keep it protected.


----------



## eddielee70 (Dec 28, 2006)

p97z said:


> I got creative with the switch. I used a toggle from radio shack and a pull knob from a sliding closet door.  The switch is set back to help keep it from the elements.


that looks very professional. you should be able to sell them.... very informative thread...


----------



## sknhgy (Jan 18, 2008)

One question: Where does the switch go in the circuit? I'm guessing it would go on the negative lead between the battery and the circuit board. Is that correct?


----------



## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

sknhgy,

Yes, I put the switch on the negative side. I used some multi-mode drivers and change modes by turning the switch on and off.

Here's some pictures of the the light polished with a black tail cap. I used a black tail to remind me that it has a multi-mode driver.


----------



## GeeTeeOhh (Sep 19, 2006)

I have a newbie question - does the optics holder just sit on the LED star, the optics inside the holder, and all held together by pressure, or do you have to somehow glue the holder, optics, and star together?

Nice light BTW.


----------



## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks GeeTeeOhh,

The holder fits over the star and then I use some silicone to hold it in place. There is enough room for the wires and glue. Then the lens snaps into the holder and then I use more silicone on the front to hold the lens. The silicone also keeps the front water tight.


----------



## GeeTeeOhh (Sep 19, 2006)

Thanks for the pictures - helps me out a lot. Is the copper plug a plumbing item? I have never seen one of them at HD.


----------



## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Yes, the copper plug is kept with the rest of the plumbing. Both HD's I checked, it was on the bottom shelf. The newer style plugs need little filing to make them fit.

Also, The best file for making the rubber band groves is a small chain saw sharpening file.


----------



## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I found some plastic "O" rings at Claire's in the mall! :thumbsup: They are not a stretchy as rubber ones but they still seem to work. They come in a pack of 10 and cost $3.25...


----------



## UpRocks (Jun 24, 2004)

Like the tail cap design. I stretched a couple of #9 o-rings from the plumbing dept around the inside of the cap to seal it inside the AL tube. Nice, tight fit.

Also got a bag of mixed size rubber grommets @ Radio Shack and used the smallest ones to seal where the wire goes through the tail cap. Looks identical to yours.

Waiting on optics to complete.


----------



## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

UpRocks, I tried an o-ring from a mini mag but it was a little too small. Did you glue the tail cap or just press it in?


----------



## UpRocks (Jun 24, 2004)

p97z said:


> UpRocks, I tried an o-ring from a mini mag but it was a little too small. Did you glue the tail cap or just press it in?


No need to glue. It is a tight fit. Three o-rings is tighter than two.

Couple of points.
I expect that because of variations in wall thickness between tubing sources, the best o-ring choice would also vary. The tubing I am using has a 1.2X mm wall thickness. The Plumbing Dept @ Home Depot has a great variety of o-ring sizes to try before making a selection.

Because of the shape of the tail cap, the first o-ring will only butt up against the rim of the tubing. It's the second (and/or third) that actually makes the internal seal.

Too small, and the o-rings are really tough to stretch around the tailcap&#8230;especially with the switch installed. Too large, and the o-ring doesn't thin out enough to fit inside the tube when stretched.


----------



## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Great advice! I'll give it a try on my next one! 

You should probably put the plug and lens in first though. If the tail cap is in place the force of the wires may push the lens and plug forward while drying.


----------



## UpRocks (Jun 24, 2004)

Good point. If there is a good side to slow component delivery, it is allowing time to fine tune the design.

Pics of the o-ring/door handle end cap. Cap removal is not fingernail friendly...
View attachment 336127


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

That looks great! I have had problems using silicone… If I don’t wait long enough for the silicone to dry the plug can move and become off center.


----------



## sknhgy (Jan 18, 2008)

How is this light wired up? What I mean is, how are the connections made between the LED, the circuit board, and the battery? How is the circuit board connected into the circuit?
I'm going bananas trying to figure this out.


----------



## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

sknhgy, How the board is wired depends on the driver. The driver board will have a positive and negative wire that connects to the LED. Once you connect the LED then you will need a positive and negative for the battery. The back side of the board will contain a + and - for the battery. Every driver board is different so it's hard to describe. You have to be careful not to wire the connections backwards. If you wire anything incorrectly then chances are the driver will burn up... Which driver are you using?


----------



## thebronze (Jan 13, 2004)

Guys, I already have 2 cree q bins gathering dust on the shelf. Is there an optic that will fit in this housing for a flood light? Would these fit ?

http://www.ledsupply.com/optx.php


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

thebronze, Those are too big. I think they are over 30mm. I made one with a 17mm cree reflector but it's still too spotty for my taste. I would also like to know of a good 20mm CREE flood optic!


----------



## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

OK, so I finally have a couple of these lights completed, and learned some very valuable lessons, and have a few burned up parts to prove it...

First off, this was a very easy project thanks to the instructions and guidence from p97z... you are the man!! Second thing, the parts take forever to get in the mail!! OK, so now on to the "lessons learned".

OK, all-battery.com is a nightmare. Ordered 2 2200 mah 7.4 v li-ion batteries, two 4400 mah 7.4 Li-ion batteries, and a charger. Received the first order 1 month later after several calls, and only one 2200 mah battery was in the package. Still calling and they are sending them piece by piece, however they have since discontinued the 4400 mah batteries and have had to make substitutions... also, one of the batteries I received was dead, will not take a charge. This has been a 2+ month ordeal and it is still going... Rant over...

Next, the deal extreme cheap drivers (4 for $6.44) really do not like the 7.4v batteries. I burned several of them up "experimenting". I finally figured out that some of them will push the led well over 1100 mah with the 7.4 v battery. This was causing everything to heat up and cook all the parts. I tested the remaining driver boards, and used the ones that were only putting out 1000 mah or less, and everything works fine now. The remaining boards seem to work fine with 4AA batteries, so that is what I am using them for. I am also going to work on the board mod for lowering the current to 800 mah. Lesson here... get a voltage/current meter and test those out...

Heatsinking is super important!! I underestimated the importance of this in the first couple of lights. I was not able to locate the brass plug at lowes or homedepot, so I tried a couple of other things. The first led worked for a little while, then quit... I could not figure it out. I pried it off the heatsink and discovered the bottom was not completly covered with AAA... big mistake. I then started to make my own heatsinks... I took Aluminum barstock, turned it down to fit inside the tube, and now have a heatsink that is 1" solid aluminum AAA to the inside of the tube... works perfect. Lesson learned... have a really good heatsink and make sure everything fits tight!!

Next thing, the O-Ring mounting system works excellent on the handlebar. I found a small cell phone case that the batteries fit in that velcro's to the stem... that mounting system is solved. Helmet mounting.. that is another story... I really did not have a good way to mount to a helmet... so just to try it out, I zip tied it to my helmet (ghetto, I know), however that worked excellent!! I have an extra helmet that I am going to Zip tie the light on, and just leave it (they are cheap enough to build I can just make an extra and stick it on there). I am also going to zip tie the battery case on the helmet as well... One of the great things about that is, once you have it on the helmet and zip tied, the thing does not move, wobble, the cables do not flop around, and it is light!! I race mostly 24 hour solo races/etc... so I always have a second helmet set up for night anyway... Lesson learned... Ghetto mounting worked great.

OK, so I started to use the light... pretty bright for one led (seoul SSC P4) I have been using it on my raod bike for training rides/etc. The light is not as white as an HID, but not bad. I then put it on my helmet, used it with my HID, and it was awesome!! I could not believe how well the thing works. I was at the Old Pueblo race this weekend and visited the niterider booth (I had the light in my pocket) They were showing their latest and greatest lights... the Dual minewt thing, SOL, and some of the others. It was night out so we compared those lights to this homebrew job.... It was way brighter and had a better beam pattern than any of their LED lights (Except Trinewt of course), and did not cost 200+ dollars. It also has a way longer burntime than any of their lights on high... pretty cool. Ayup was also there, and same thing... a lot brighter and a way better beam pattern (the Ayups have a ton of rings in the beam)

So, now I need to order some more parts (I am going to try different drivers at 800 mah unless I can mod the deal extreme ones...) and build a few more of these things for some of the people that I ride with. This is probably the same story for many of the other people on the board... Thanks again for all the help and the inspiration to tackle this project!!


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks for the update tamen00!

I have also learned a few lessons. I don't like to bad mouth companies but I also had a bad experience with all-battery.com. I ordered the beginning of January and still haven't gotten what I ordered (long story). 

I ordered some multi-mode drivers and they haven't been working well. I think you get what you pay for with drivers. I have had the best luck with taskled drivers and sandwich shoppe drivers. I know they cost more but sometimes it's worth the extra cash.

LED's from DX are a little on the blue side for my taste. I have had the best luck with LED's from PhotonFanatic over at CPF. They are $11.00 but I get them in 2 days. Depending on the bin they are nice and white (compared to DX). Also he sells Khatod reflectors that make a great flood. I have only tried the smooth but so far I like them.


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## plasticmann (May 7, 2006)

Tamen.

Great run down - thanks.

I'm also planning on building a couple of these but like you cannot find the plugs. (I live in OZ and our version of Lowes/Home Depot does not seem as well stocked as the ones in the US). BUT a mate has a lathe and some Al rod so I was also thinking of getting him to turn me up a few plug heat sinks. What length did you run with. Its probably not critical anyway - but it's always nice to know what others have done. Any help appreciated.

Cheers.

PS - I'm also going to use the cheap DX drivers using 4 x 4500mAh sub C NIMH, (4.8V), so battery feedback is interesting.


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## thebronze (Jan 13, 2004)

p97z said:


> thebronze, Those are too big. I think they are over 30mm. I made one with a 17mm cree reflector but it's still too spotty for my taste. I would also like to know of a good 20mm CREE flood optic!


Turns out they are 26mm OD, or 1.02". So the 1" tubing wont work, you'd have to get 1.5" and then use a bigger brass plug, 1.25". Even then those optics have clip ons that kind of muck up the measurements. Theres got to be some 20mm Cree optics out there for a flood.


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

I actually did not measure the length of the heatsink, but I think it was around an inch.. I made one a little less than half an inch and it was not enough...

Also, the DX cheap drivers have worked fantastic at 4.8 volts for me... the issues have come when I tried to use them with the Li-Ion 7.4 v battery pack.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

thebronze said:


> Turns out they are 26mm OD, or 1.02". So the 1" tubing wont work, you'd have to get 1.5" and then use a bigger brass plug, 1.25". Even then those optics have clip ons that kind of muck up the measurements. Theres got to be some 20mm Cree optics out there for a flood.


I'm afraid the plugs are tough to find in different sizes. 

I have tried those optics and there are all kinds of artifacts in the beam. When you add the diffusers the artifacts go away but you loose a lot of light. The best thing to do with those cree led's is to buy some 8 degree spot optics and use them as helmet lights. That's what did and it worked out great.


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## plasticmann (May 7, 2006)

Thanks Tamen - an inch it is.

In terms of batteries - when you do the sums, 4 x 4500mAh sub C';s are a pretty decent option for these lights. Relatively cheap, packs are easy to make yourself, chargers are cheap, at 4500mAH they are not that much bigger than lithium in terms of energy v size v weight and they are safer than lithium chemistry. I'm using a lithium battery for my HID but will run the LEDS using 4.8V NIMH packs and see how they go.


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## thebronze (Jan 13, 2004)

Do you guys know if you can modify the L2 20mm optics to fit on a Cree? It looks the you would just need to shape the optic holder a little to fit the larger LED.

Oh yeah, if you need a battery, check ebay for all-batteries items. They seem to be a few dollars cheaper then what's on their website. I think the 3.7v li ion 4400 mah was $13.


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## singlespeed10 (Feb 12, 2008)

plasticmann said:


> Tamen.
> 
> PS - I'm also going to use the cheap DX drivers using 4 x 4500mAh sub C NIMH, (4.8V), so battery feedback is interesting.


I have learned from various forum posts that the cheap drivers, particularly those with the AMD7135 chip, can overheat if they are driven at too high a voltage
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=188470 
In my limited experience with this driver: http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=2958
I have avoided heat problems by keeping the battery voltage less than 1V more than the Vf


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

thebronze said:


> Do you guys know if you can modify the L2 20mm optics to fit on a Cree? It looks the you would just need to shape the optic holder a little to fit the larger LED.
> 
> Oh yeah, if you need a battery, check ebay for all-batteries items. They seem to be a few dollars cheaper then what's on their website. I think the 3.7v li ion 4400 mah was $13.


I don't think you can modify an L2 to work... I tried and ended up with an ugly beam. I used a drill bit so maybe there is a better way... 

I use one of those batteries on my helmet with a q5 cree and 8 degree optics. I get 4.5 hrs run time using a buck boost.


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## UpRocks (Jun 24, 2004)

*Optic Holder Mod?*

Just a thought here about mixing an XRE with an L2 optic&#8230;

It looks like the XRE emitter sits flush inside the L2 optic with the holder omitted.

The obvious compatibility issue is the round base of the optic vs. the rectangular base of the emitter.

Does anyone have an educated guess at the results I would get from trimming the round "hole" in the base of the holder into a rectangle to mate with the emitter base (fit and/or light dispersion)? Anyone tried it yet or have another suggestion?

It takes so long to get components that I hate to generate any scrap, but I'm also not sure I want my R2s stuck with 8° optics.

View attachment 337853


edit: note to self...read recent posts before posting identical questions.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

UpRocks,

tamen00 found these on CPF.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=175502

The round ones should fit! I think brum is also a member here.


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## UpRocks (Jun 24, 2004)

p97z said:


> http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=175502


Thanks p97z and tamen00.

Ordered. They ship tomorrow. Thanks Bram!


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

UpRocks,

Post some beam shots when you get them. Looks like some R2's and optics my be my next purchase!


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

I was looking at the Cutter website and it looks like there are several different optics that would work with the cree leds and fit into our DIY Dinotte lights... however they are expensive!! Has anyone tried any of these optics, and can you recommend one over the other? Here are the links to the ones in question....

Carclo: 20 mm Come in 8.4 degree, 10.4 degree, 25 degree, and 41x10.4 degree... These are like 8 bucks a piece with a holder... any comments on how well they work.. and someplace else to get them that is cheaper?

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut687&cat=33

Cree XRE Optic Part #XLSL-7090-247

I think this is the 8 degree optic that p97z has been using... on cutter it is 2.95 with holder...

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut680

Fraen Cree XRE Optics: come in narrow, medium, wide. Looks like about 200 mm optic. about 3.95 without holder

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut679&cat=33

Fraen Low Profile FC Series: come in several different beam patterns and will fit in our housings... 4.59 with holder...

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut768

Khatod: Narrow beam, 12 degree... about 12 bucks US... The second link is for some different Khatod optics that are 40 and 30 degree... too much spread probably

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut745
http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut754&cat=33

Also, there are the candlepower forums optcs from Brum... Ledil optics in like 3 different beam patterns for 3.75

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=175502

So, if anyone has any feedback on the above optics, or someplace else to buy them, that would be great... If you think we should start a new thread with this info... I can do that as well. I looked through and there really is not a good thread for round Cree 20 mm optics and sources to get them....


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

At one point I bought two of every cree 20mm Carclo from Cutter. I purchased some LED's and optics. After a couple months I finally canceled the order. In the end it ended up costing me about $7.00 because the exchange rate went down. Cutter lists items that are not currently in stock.. Also, some companies charge for items when the order ships and others charge before the order ships...

PoorBarDog put up shots of a lot of different optics.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=2866875#poststop

However it looks like there are some new optics since the last thread.


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## thebronze (Jan 13, 2004)

Guys I cant find the aluminum pipe in Home Depot. Is it in the hardware aisle, the electrical/conduit section, or the plumbing section by the nibco plug?

Cutter optics are too expensive and the shipping was another $15, I decided to go with the L2's.


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

My Home depot did not have the aluminum pipe either. I found it at Ace Hardware and also at Lowes (10 or 11 bucks for 6 feet I think). The aluminum pipe that I bought and made my first couple of lights out of had too thin of wall thickness to make good handlebar and O-Ring indentations. I took my optics to a local steel yard and they had a few different sizes and pieces of aluminum.

I ended up getting a piece that the optics fit tighter than the home depot pipe, and the wall was 2X as thick as the home depot aluminum. While I was there I also picked up some solid aluminum barstock that fit on the inside of the pipe to use in place of the Nibco plug. This was more expensive than the home depot pipe, but the barstock was cheaper than the Nibco plugs, so it offset the cost.

The aluminum pipe was 18 bucks for 3 (18 housings) feet and the barstock was 8 bucks for 1.5 feet (16 heatsinks). The light head becomes a little heavier due to the increased wall thickness, but the optics fit with a lot tighter tolerances, and I can put a pretty big groove in it for the handlebar. Also, If I can figure out how to do it, it is thick enough to machine grooves in it for additional heatsinking.

Anyway, have fun with the light... they do work awesome and are really fun to build. Thanks to p97z for the excellent idea and instructions. My current set up is 2 on the handlebar (like a Niterider Dual X2) and one on the helmet... works great for mtn biking!!


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## GhisalloWheels (Oct 30, 2007)

*uber newbie*

I am not electronically inclined, at all. My brother is however, and he'll hlep figure some things out. The one question that I can't seem to find in this forum is whether or not I can make one of the DIY dinotte style lights that will come close to the 600L in brightness. And, if not, will two lights that emit 228 lumens produce 456 lumens or is it not quite additive?
thanks for any patience you can afford


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

thebronze said:


> Guys I cant find the aluminum pipe in Home Depot. Is it in the hardware aisle, the electrical/conduit section, or the plumbing section by the nibco plug?
> 
> Cutter optics are too expensive and the shipping was another $15, I decided to go with the L2's.


I got the aluminum pipe from Lowes, and the Nibco plug from Home Depot. The aluminum pipe was in with the rest of the steel and aluminum pieces but I don't remember which section. The Nibco plug was in the plumbing department.

The L2 optics won't disappoint you!


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## UpRocks (Jun 24, 2004)

thebronze said:


> Guys I cant find the aluminum pipe in Home Depot. Is it in the hardware aisle, the electrical/conduit section, or the plumbing section by the nibco plug?


It's nowhere in the 3 Home Depots and 2 Lowes's's's's's's in my area.

I ended up ordering it through McMaster Carr through our account at work.

-uprocks


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## rkj__ (Feb 29, 2004)

chumbacabra said:


> And, if not, will two lights that emit 228 lumens produce 456 lumens or is it not quite additive?
> thanks for any patience you can afford


From my understanding, the effects of adding a second unit are additive. In the LED shootout, take the 200L vs. 200L dual for example. 


> On our ambient light meter measurements, the Dinotte 200L came in at 16 Lux. The 200L dual measured in at 32 Lux.


The lux measurements cannot be directly compared to lumen measurements, but the point is, that in the test that they ran, the output was additive.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I think rkj__ is right. In theory lumens add up with the number of led's. So you could make a 600 lumen light using three 200 lumen led's.

I ride with two of these on the bar and one on my helmet. Each running at 1000ma for 240 lumens. In theory 720 lumens.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I had some problems with the radio shack toggle switch. The first switch couldn't take the heat of the soldering iron and the second lasted for about a week. Radio Shack replaced the metal toggle switches with plastic ones. The case is made of plastic and the toggle is still metal. They don't hold up well at all. Because I had two failures a fellow co-worker talked me into making a push button switch. The push button should be a little more water proof. Here's a finished picture. The push button also works better with multi-mode drivers.


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## GhisalloWheels (Oct 30, 2007)

*how about this led?*

Can this LED work? Maybe a problem with fitting in the aluminum piping? or optics wont work? or heat dissipation will be a problem?
http://www.ledsupply.com/07007-pwc-10-3.php
Sorry


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

chumbacabra said:


> Can this LED work? Maybe a problem with fitting in the aluminum piping? or optics wont work? or heat dissipation will be a problem?


Can you post a link to the LED?


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## mtbAndy (Jun 7, 2004)

p97z said:


> I had some problems with the radio shack toggle switch. The first switch couldn't take the heat of the soldering iron and the second lasted for about a week. Radio Shack replaced the metal toggle switches with plastic ones. The case is made of plastic and the toggle is still metal. They don't hold up well at all. Because I had two failures a fellow co-worker talked me into making a push button switch. The push button should be a little more water proof. Here's a finished picture. The push button also works better with multi-mode drivers.


Any tips on how you made that switch?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

chumbacabra, I can't wait for some optics for the Endor Star LED.

http://www.ledsupply.com/07007-pwc-10-3.php

To use it, you would need a 14.4v battery or a smaller battery and a boost regulator. I'm also not sure how much surface area you would need to cool it. You could also just dim the light down when you are not moving. I think as long as air is moving, this housing would be Ok.

The only thing keeping me from trying this LED is the lack of optics. In a couple of months there will probably be a bunch of options.

hillbilly_hank, I can post some pictures how to make that switch later tonight.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I made the push button tail switch using a switch from digikey.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=519PB-ND

Silicone tail caps from DX.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5742

The housing is the sliding closet door plug from Home Depot.

To get the silicone cap to fit over the switch you need to file the corners of the switch and then cut the nub on the inside of the silicone cap. Once the cap fits on the switch you need to file the back of the door plug so the contacts fit through the back. Run a bead of silicone around the cap and your done. Also after it's wired I squirt some silicone on the connections to water proof it.

Here's a water proof tail switch. It's been trough snow and salt and still works great... :thumbsup:


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## rottweiler (Jun 21, 2007)

Anyone interested in a machined Dinotte Style housing?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I could be, what do you have in mind?


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## rottweiler (Jun 21, 2007)

Exactly as the Dinotte..same size, lighter and instead of holes, I will cut slots for increased surface area.

US$45 shipped inclusive of Body (6061 T6), Brezel and Tailcap (either 6061 T6 or Delrin White). I will throw in switches, screws and gromet. Machined to fit star pcb and Carlo 20mm optic..

Can machine just about any design as long as you provide drawing and dimension..add US$10 for 28mm diameter X 56mm length in your design but if it is easy...same price.

Pm me with your email address for pic of complete housing.



p97z said:


> I could be, what do you have in mind?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

rottweiler,

Thanks! However, I don't think I'm interested. These are cheap and easy to make. I can't see spending that much. I'm sure that the housing would look better but after a few rides in the snow and salt they all look dirty anyway. Also, at that price I couldn't afford to give them away to my friends.

Thanks again!


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## mtbAndy (Jun 7, 2004)

p97z said:


> I made the push button tail switch using a switch from digikey.
> 
> http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=519PB-ND
> 
> ...


I ordered some of these with my led's and stuff... http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5602

When it all gets here and I start working on them I'll if they will work. I've also got some ideas for cooling slots and a DIY metal lathe to help dress it up. If the lathe works I'll post how to build it.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

hillbilly_hank said:


> I ordered some of these with my led's and stuff... http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5602
> 
> When it all gets here and I start working on them I'll if they will work. I've also got some ideas for cooling slots and a DIY metal lathe to help dress it up. If the lathe works I'll post how to build it.


Looks like those switches should work fine. I'm interested to see what you came up with! I tried using a drill as a lathe but it didn't work. It did however work great for polishing!

I can't wait to see your results!


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## mtbAndy (Jun 7, 2004)

p97z said:


> Looks like those switches should work fine. I'm interested to see what you came up with! I tried using a drill as a lathe but it didn't work. It did however work great for polishing!
> 
> I can't wait to see your results!


Sounds like you have already tried what I wanted to do. What didn't work about it?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I tried a threaded rod being held by the chuck and then a nut with a washer at the other end. I could never center it and any force would push it and make it wobble. The next method that I currently use is a rubber piece with a nut that tightens. The piece of rubber presses against the aluminum but still can get off center. The rubber piece with a threaded rod works great for polishing. I can make a polished housing in under 10 mins. I can post some pictures later tonight.


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## mtbAndy (Jun 7, 2004)

p97z said:


> I tried a threaded rod being held by the chuck and then a nut with a washer at the other end. I could never center it and any force would push it and make it wobble. The next method that I currently use is a rubber piece with a nut that tightens. The piece of rubber presses against the aluminum but still can get off center. The rubber piece with a threaded rod works great for polishing. I can make a polished housing in under 10 mins. I can post some pictures later tonight.


I was hoping to find a rubber stopper that would fit inside the housing and drill a hole through it. Then I'd put a threaded rod through it with nuts and washers on either side of the stopper. Hopefully I can crank the nuts down tight enough to expand the washer and hold the housing tight. I think it's good in theory but we'll see how it works in practice.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

hillbilly_hank, It could work if you can keep the aluminum tight against the drill head. I could only tighten the rubber stopper from the end that goes into the chuck. Because I could only tighten it from the same end that goes into the chuck, it would wobble whenever I tried to put pressure on it. If you could get a 2 inch piece of rubber that fits the inside of the housing it could also work. I'm sure there is a way to make it work...


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

Hey Hillbilly and p97z... we are all living in different places trying exactly the same things at the same time... crazy. I have tried the all- thread rubber stopper thing, and a couple of the other ideas, however I sill can not figure out how to do it and make it come out looking good without buying expensive tools...

Also, p97z, nice job on the switch... I ordered some of the pushbutton ones from digikey with the rubber boot and they look pretty decent sticking out the back... waterproof also!


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

tamen00 said:


> Hey Hillbilly and p97z... we are all living in different places trying exactly the same things at the same time... crazy. I have tried the all- thread rubber stopper thing, and a couple of the other ideas, however I sill can not figure out how to do it and make it come out looking good without buying expensive tools...
> 
> Also, p97z, nice job on the switch... I ordered some of the pushbutton ones from digikey with the rubber boot and they look pretty decent sticking out the back... waterproof also!


It's funny we all have the same idea's... Great minds think a like, we must be on the right track! 

I'm amazed at how waterproof this light is. I've made a couple other designs and they end up fogging and just can't hold up to the weather. They have been through snow, rain, mud, salt.. I thought my helmet light had stopped working once but it turned out to be packed in snow. Snow got packed solid on top and around it blocking the light. Just removed the snow and found it was still working and bright as can be.


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## Wadejp (Dec 28, 2007)

p97z said:


> It's funny we all have the same idea's...  Great minds think a like, we must be on the right track!
> 
> I'm amazed at how waterproof this light is. I've made a couple other designs and they end up fogging and just can't hold up to the weather. They have been through snow, rain, mud, salt.. I thought my helmet light had stopped working once but it turned out to be packed in snow. Snow got packed solid on top and around it blocking the light. Just removed the snow and found it was still working and bright as can be.


p97z,

This is a great design thanks for sharing it.

I am a little confused if you used lens covers or if you just used silicone on the lens themselves and still got this remarkable weather proof light.

Thanks

Jim


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

Hi Wade! The lenses are just siliconed in the housing, there is no lens cover (correct me if I am wrong or if you are doing something different p97z) Also, if anyone is ordering switches from digikey... they have the ledil lenses and holders for the SSC P4 leds, and they are pretty cheap... just a thought if you are doing an digikey order.

I have decided on my light setup finally. I am going to have two of these on the bar, and one on the helmet. This setup seems to work very well for singletrack and also wide open fire roads.

The two on the bar will be run off of one battery and one switch, mounted on either side of the stem. This is my question... I would really like to continue to use the 7.4v batteries. Should each light head be its own self contained unit with its own driver/etc., just wired to the switch individually, or would it be better to run both lights off the same driver and have the leds wired in series? Also, would it be a problem to run 2 of the light heads off the same battery (I do not see and issue, however the runtime would be cut in half)? I really want to have both of these running off the same switch... I have no need for multi-modes, the ability to turn one off, or make it blink or anything like that.

For the helmet mounted light, I have night helmet, so the light head and pouch for the battery is mounted permanently. I have also come up with a remote pushbutton switch that will be mounted to the side of the helmet so I can turn it on and off easily. I do a lot of 24 hour solo races, so I need to be able to easily turn the light on and off to go through the transition tents.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Wadejp said:


> p97z,
> 
> This is a great design thanks for sharing it.
> 
> ...


Thanks Wadejp... It is waterproof using just the lens with no cover. Just make sure the silicone covers the lip where the lens snaps into the holder. I will make one suggestion however. With the salt and snow the lens can get blocked like I mentioned. Sometimes I need to wipe it with my glove to keep it clean. Over time I can see the plastic lens getting scratched by the repeated wiping. If you are worried about exposing the lens to the elements you could put a clear piece of glass over the front. It's also easy to change optics by pealing off the silicone and popping the lens out of the holder.

Another thing I forgot to mention is the power cord. I use a rubber grommet then put silicone over the hole after the cord is through.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

tamen00 said:


> if anyone is ordering switches from digikey... they have the ledil lenses and holders for the SSC P4 leds, and they are pretty cheap... just a thought if you are doing an digikey order.


Thanks!



tamen00 said:


> I have decided on my light setup finally. I am going to have two of these on the bar, and one on the helmet. This setup seems to work very well for singletrack and also wide open fire roads.
> 
> The two on the bar will be run off of one battery and one switch, mounted on either side of the stem. This is my question... I would really like to continue to use the 7.4v batteries. Should each light head be its own self contained unit with its own driver/etc., just wired to the switch individually, or would it be better to run both lights off the same driver and have the leds wired in series? Also, would it be a problem to run 2 of the light heads off the same battery (I do not see and issue, however the runtime would be cut in half)? I really want to have both of these running off the same switch... I have no need for multi-modes, the ability to turn one off, or make it blink or anything like that.
> 
> For the helmet mounted light, I have night helmet, so the light head and pouch for the battery is mounted permanently. I have also come up with a remote pushbutton switch that will be mounted to the side of the helmet so I can turn it on and off easily. I do a lot of 24 hour solo races, so I need to be able to easily turn the light on and off to go through the transition tents.


Two on the bar and one on the helmet works for me. I would run a driver in each light. You can run them both off the same battery and put a switch in the cord. Don't put them in series because it will decrease the brightness. How did you make the remote switch? Can you use the same idea for the bar lights?


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

The remote switch is just one of the cheap digikey pushbutton switches with flying leads. I just ran the leads outside of the housing, and then mounted it with velcro to the side of the helmet. The switch is self contained with a square plastic housing, and there is a rubber boot that goes on the button as well. The switch looks pretty waterproof, however i covered the thing with silicone and then put shrink wrap on the outside, and then siliconed the rubber boot on it. I know it is waterproof now because I submerged it in the sink overnight and it still worked the next day just fine  I think they are exactly the same switch the old niterider halogens used to use... remember that red remote handlebar switch?? this would also work fine for a remote handlebar switch... wait, maybe I will do that... They can be found on the digikey site at:

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T081/1968-1982.pdf

I have also used the same switch in the housing on one of the lights. It was a little bit of a tight fit, however it works just fine. Best part, the switches are pretty cheap... we will see how long they last.

This year I am going to be going to the 24 hour Solo world championships and make a run at the singlespeed class... so p97z, your design will be used at a world championship race  The nice part is that I have two identical bikes for the races, so I am building sets that will go on both bikes so I do not have to worry about having my mechanic move lights around or put them on the bike when nighttime rolls around. I really would not have been able to afford to have enough lights, batteries, etc to do this without your design and guidance... so thanks a lot!!!


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## GhisalloWheels (Oct 30, 2007)

*customizing an old dinotte light?*

I have an old 200L light engine. Could I put one of the Endor Star 300 ( http://www.ledsupply.com/07007-pwc-10-3.php ) in this housing. I am assuming that I would need a new driver and optics. But is there other issues I don't understand?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

tamen00 said:


> The remote switch is just one of the cheap digikey pushbutton switches with flying leads. I just ran the leads outside of the housing, and then mounted it with velcro to the side of the helmet. The switch is self contained with a square plastic housing, and there is a rubber boot that goes on the button as well. The switch looks pretty waterproof, however i covered the thing with silicone and then put shrink wrap on the outside, and then siliconed the rubber boot on it. I know it is waterproof now because I submerged it in the sink overnight and it still worked the next day just fine  I think they are exactly the same switch the old niterider halogens used to use... remember that red remote handlebar switch?? this would also work fine for a remote handlebar switch... wait, maybe I will do that... They can be found on the digikey site at:
> 
> http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T081/1968-1982.pdf
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip on the switch!

When is the race? I'll be cheering you on!! Go tamen00, go!!! :thumbsup:

Glad I could help.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

chumbacabra said:


> I have an old 200L light engine. Could I put one of the Endor Star 300 ( http://www.ledsupply.com/07007-pwc-10-3.php ) in this housing. I am assuming that I would need a new driver and optics. But is there other issues I don't understand?


I think it's a little too soon. I don't think there are any optics that will fit yet. Once there are optics, it may work if there is a star in there now. Do you have a picture of the LED without the optic in place?


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## GhisalloWheels (Oct 30, 2007)

p97z said:


> I think it's a little too soon. I don't think there are any optics that will fit yet. Once there are optics, it may work if there is a star in there now. Do you have a picture of the LED without the optic in place?


I'll get a pic. The other issue is the inside diameter is 17.5 mm. If that LED won't work, what is the brightest led on a <17 mm board?
thanks.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

At this point a brighter seoul LED. I think they are 240 lumen's at 1000ma. There is not much of a difference. If you wait about 6 months you may have more options. If you want to make it brighter you could make one or more of these lights and ride with two, or three...


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## Wadejp (Dec 28, 2007)

Thanks for your help,

Do either of you know what size battery will power two Seouls wired in series for 2-3 hours?

Thanks in advance

Jim


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Here is a runtime calculator... You can put in the number of LED's and the battery size and it will tell you the runtime.

http://www.jtice.com/led_pro/led_pro.htm

There is also a discussion in this thread.
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=374949


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## GhisalloWheels (Oct 30, 2007)

*will this work with an older dinotte housing*

I would like to use this emitter
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11022
and this board
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7612

I am wondering if the switch with the engine will work.
Any ideas?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

chumbacabra said:


> I would like to use this emitter
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11022
> and this board
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7612
> ...


If you use that emitter then you would have better soldering skills then me. I haven't used that form factor with a Cree emitter but it looks like it may be a little hard to solder. With a star, if you mess up, you can solder to another set of pads. It doesn't look like they give you much room in case you make a mistake.

The driver doesn't say what the max voltage is. It looks like 3.7v... a fully charged 3.7v pack is 4.2v. Not sure how well that driver will work.

Either switch (the toggle or push button) will work with multi mode drivers. To change modes turn the power on and then off within two seconds. I think the push button works a little better for multi-mode drivers but that's just my opinion.


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## UpRocks (Jun 24, 2004)

Thought I would add my .02 since I finally got a couple of these DIYs put together and trail tested. I may post some pics later.

Couple of quick thoughts:
- these lights are way easy to build
- they are also very cheap to build
- they are also very quick to build
- optic selection is a PITA
- collecting components from so many sources is a PITA
- no real need to "groove" the housing for the o-ring
- a longer o-ring shortened with knots in the middle is great if it's what you have lying around at work.  
- the next two I build will use a 3" housing length 

Dinotte is selling a very well-designed product in the 200L, which becomes more evident after trying to duplicate the effectiveness of the 200L. The 200L optic selection is remarkable in its light dispersion. I am very pleased to be using it as a baseline and somewhat displeased that I have not been able to replicate its combination of throw/spill.

Conclusion: 
- props to Dinotte for setting the bar high with the 200L 
- props to p97z for being so supportive of this project

***riding with lights you made yourself doubles your riding pleasure


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

UpRocks, Thanks for the update and the kind words!

I'm glad you had success... What optics have you tried? I've had great success with the L2's mentioned above.



UpRocks said:


> ***riding with lights you made yourself doubles your riding pleasure


You can say that again!!:thumbsup:


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## singlespeed10 (Feb 12, 2008)

p97z said:


> The driver doesn't say what the max voltage is. It looks like 3.7v... a fully charged 3.7v pack is 4.2v. Not sure how well that driver will work.


p97z

I built 2 SSC headlights and 2 LuxIII tail lights using a very similar 7135-chip driver (same driver except 5 modes). What I have read (and confirmed) is that these things will overheat if you run them at more than 1 volt more than the forward voltage of the LED. Based on this I run the LuxIII at 3.6 v (3-NiMH cells) and the SSC at 4.8 v (4-NiNH) cells. At these voltages the drivers get warm, but no so hot as they self-destruct.

BTW, this design is awesome! I used your original design on the tail lights and your design using the pocket door handle, O-rings, and a micro toggle switch on the headlight. Both designs are great!


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

singlespeed10,

Thanks for the tip on the drivers. I blew up a driver the other day by accidentally plugging it into a 7.4v battery. The battery was fully charged at 8.2v and the driver just went POP! I'm now really careful about which battery pack I plug into which light.  It was bound to happen mixing different drivers with different lights...

Oh, and thanks again for the kind words.


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

I'm using a DX 3256 driver. I see the LED + and - wires sticking out, so on the back of the driver - is the center the V+ and the outer ring the V-? Does it matter where I wire a switch in? i.e. should an on/off switch be on the positive side or the negative side? Anyone have a simple schematic to show? :???:

thanks!
dave



p97z said:


> sknhgy, How the board is wired depends on the driver. The driver board will have a positive and negative wire that connects to the LED. Once you connect the LED then you will need a positive and negative for the battery. The back side of the board will contain a + and - for the battery. Every driver board is different so it's hard to describe. You have to be careful not to wire the connections backwards. If you wire anything incorrectly then chances are the driver will burn up... Which driver are you using?


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

Hey cdn-dave... the center on the back of the driver is positive and the outer ring is negative... I found this out the hard way... Also, I have wired all of my switches on the positive side of things and it has worked well... someone on this forum somplace said that was the best way to do it.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

cdn-dave said:


> I'm using a DX 3256 driver. I see the LED + and - wires sticking out, so on the back of the driver - is the center the V+ and the outer ring the V-? Does it matter where I wire a switch in? i.e. should an on/off switch be on the positive side or the negative side? Anyone have a simple schematic to show? :???:
> 
> thanks!
> dave


That's the same driver that I have used.

I think this is the schematic. http://www.dealextreme.com/feedbacks/browseCustomerPhotos.dx/sku.3256~id.6143

Yes, the center is + (positive) and the outer edge is - (negative). I add the switch to the - (negative) side.


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## mtbAndy (Jun 7, 2004)

I just finished, well almost finished, my first DIY style light. I used that driver and the center is positive and the outer is negative as others noted. A quick trip to Lowe's for clear silicone in the morning and I'll get my first light finished. I just did a basic brushed finish on this one but I have materials to do 3 more and have some ideas for some good looking touches.


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

Sweet, thanks for the quick replies guys! I should be able to wire everything up today.

cheers,
dave


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## notenoughtime (Sep 7, 2004)

p97z said:


> Thanks GeeTeeOhh,
> 
> The holder fits over the star and then I use some silicone to hold it in place. There is enough room for the wires and glue. Then the lens snaps into the holder and then I use more silicone on the front to hold the lens. The silicone also keeps the front water tight.


How do you make such a clean seal with the silicone around the lens? I'd be worried about getting it all over the lens. Is that not an issue?


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## cormpus (Jul 4, 2007)

So...9 pages of everybody's work over the past many months on this thread, an exigesis on an excellent use of local, easily-available hardware to make night-riding a low-cost possibility...and...after all of it...I am one [email protected] DIYLED newbie.

Anybody have a list of parts and supplier(s) for a good all-around first light?
I was thinking of doing two: One spot and one flood. 
I'd love an all-in-one-place list, including optics, lights, drivers, switch(es), batteries and cables. 
Is this a possibility?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

notenoughtime - To make a nice silicone bead, put down a layer of silicone and then pull your finger away from the lens. You want to squeegee the silicone away from the lens and let the aluminum lip collect the left over. If you get some on the lens just rub it away with your finger. Sometimes it may takes two layers to get it think enough.

cormpus -- As far as I know there is not one place to get everything.


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## plesurnpain (Sep 9, 2007)

*Here's wha I've got*

First of all-thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread, I wouldn't even think about doing this w/all of your hard work to point me in the(hopefully) right direction.
I'm new to this forum and lighting. I've been looking at this thread to help me out. Maybe my thoughts can help some of the other newbies. I'm starting with something simple and inexpensive. I'm using 3 AA's for power and the cheap drivers from DX. I know there's been a few problems with these drivers and I hope this battery setup will work. So here's my list, will someone let me know if I'm headed in the right direction.

Seoul w/ Star 
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445
3.6V-9V Circuit Board 
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256
L2-OH-S35 
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php
L2-OP-O15 
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php 
12 AA 2600 mAh NiM 
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2554
Battery Holder BB3AA
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2125
Tamia Connectors 
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=535>

Thanks again for all of your help. I look forward to hearing your thoughts.
BTW-This should cost about $25 per light after the trip to HD. This includes the light and 3 AA battery pack. Another $12 for the single cell charerger and I'm @ $62 for bar/helmet combo. Oh yeah, a few bucks extra for shipping.


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

Looks like a good list to start with, and pretty much exactly what I went with for my builds. I had good luck with the DX cheap drivers running the Seoul leds. Also, you may want to consider getting a spot lens for the helmet light, the 15 degree flood works good for the bars, however it does not throw very far... here is the URL: 
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-005.php

Also, one other thing you may want to consider is running the light with a 4 cell battery pack instead of the 3 cell. I think that it may work with 3 cells, however that driver requires a little extra voltage, and your burn times will be longer with the 4 cell pack. I am getting a little less than 2 hours out of 4 2500 mah nimh cells with my lights (I did not use 4 aa very often, I switched to 7.2v li battery packs.... works awesome, 3.5 hour runtime!!!)

Also, for trail riding, you really need 3 of these little lights. I have one spot and one medium on the bars connected to a 4400 mah 7.2 li pack, and one spot on the helmet running a 2200 mah 7.2 li pack... it works great. This setup is about the same as my 4 year old niterider hid that I used to run, with the added benefit of having a light on the helmet. Also, for reference, I do 24 hour solo races and ride at night 3-4 times a week in the summer (live in AZ) and this is plenty of light...


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## cormpus (Jul 4, 2007)

Anybody else having trouble sourcing the 1" AL tubestock? My HD carries 1/2" max. Lowe's too. WTF?


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## notaknob (Apr 6, 2004)

*hardware...*



cormpus said:


> Anybody else having trouble sourcing the 1" AL tubestock? My HD carries 1/2" max. Lowe's too. WTF?


I've seen it at a local True Value. Even better, it was made in the USA, as is the stuff I've found at Lowe's.

The HD stuff is Chinese.


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

I found mine at ace Hardware, my HD or lowes did not have it... I found some with a little thicker wall at one of the local metal supply places, however it was a little more expensive. The optics fit a little better though, and I will be able to machine little fins in the housing to make it look cooler


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## plesurnpain (Sep 9, 2007)

*Thanks*

tamen00
I wondered about the 3 AA's as opposed to 4. I didn't want to burn out the driver like someone(maybe you, I don't remember) did. The switch to 4 is no big deal. If all goes well, I will upgrade the battery pack to the 7.2v li. I just want to learn on a lower budget. 
I will probably run the 3 light system, I was just trying to figure out a per light budget. I like your suggestion about the the 5 deg. spot for the helmet. I noticed that when I was working on this list last night. Thanks for your help. I'll to keep you updated on my progress.
cormpus
From what I can understand, you can't source all of the parts from 1 location. The list that I posted should get you everything that you need. Let me know if I can help in any way. I think that we're in the same boat as far as grasping all of this and builing our lights. Everyone here is so helpful, I' m sure that I can do this w/ a little help. And if I can, then anyone can. Good Luck


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

Yeah, it is a bummer you can not get all the parts from one source, however it is not that big of deal. You will also need to get some of the Arctic thermal epoxy, and those copper end cap things are kind of expensive as well... like 4 bucks or something like that....

And you will not have any issues at all burning the drivers up with 4 AA batteries... that is like 4.8 volts. I think that 3 AA batteries are 3.6 volts and may not be enough with this driver.


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## kmacon (Nov 15, 2006)

*Aluminum 1" stock*



cormpus said:


> Anybody else having trouble sourcing the 1" AL tubestock? My HD carries 1/2" max. Lowe's too. WTF?


1" Aluminum stock is easy to come by at thrift stores, Goodwill/Salvation Army stores or even yard sales. Just look for walkers or walking canes that people are getting rid of. They are all mostly made of 1" stock and can be had for cheap. You'll have plenty for all the lights you care to build. https://forums.mtbr.com/images/icons/icon14.gif


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## jmitchell13 (Nov 20, 2005)

cormpus said:


> Anybody else having trouble sourcing the 1" AL tubestock? My HD carries 1/2" max. Lowe's too. WTF?


You can get any type of tube stock in whatever material you want here: http://www.mcmaster.com/

I purchased 1" stock for my diy light and it fits my Fraen optics perfectly.


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## plesurnpain (Sep 9, 2007)

*Oh Yeah*

I forgot to add the AA thermal epoxy, pipe and brass to my list. I was hoping to put together a list of the links that I am planning on using to make it easier for the other newbs. I don't have the AA link right now, but I believe that it was through DX. I know that it's been on here, but I'll add it to my list later.
tamen00
So I guess that I could run 6 AA's for 7.2v and be cheap and ok, right?


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

Yeah, 6 nimh batteries would work fine as well, as long as you do not exceed the 9v for the driver. FWIW, on a freshly charged 7.2v lithium pack, the driver gets warm for the first couple of minutes and then everything settles down to normal and runs fine.

I have built about 20 of these DIYDinotte things over the past couple of months for friends in all kinds of configurations. My favorite and the easiest to build is the one you are working on right now (cheap Driver, Seoul, L2 lenses)

You may also want to think about a switch for the light... it is kind of a pain unplugging the thing everytime you want to turn it off with the Tamiya connectors (And those connectors wear out pretty fast!!) I switched over to the Deans ultra connectors and they have been flawless... those little suckers work great, however they are not pretty and not water proof... which I do not think matters... I submerged one of my lights in the bathtub to see what would happen, and with the dean connectors, it just kept working... the current or voltage or whatever causes the light to short in water is not high enough with these things so it really does not matter if the connectors are completely waterproof (The inside of the light and the driverboard however need to be watertight)

Anyway, post pics when you are done... one of these days I need to post some pics of mine now that I have all the kinks worked out!!


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## plesurnpain (Sep 9, 2007)

*Off I Go!*

Thanks for your help tamen00.
Also, thanks to p97z for starting this thread and sticking with it.
Now that I feel good about what I'm ordering I can get after it!
Sounds like we think alike as far as helping out our friends. Part of the first round will be a 40th birthday present for a friend. I'm going to make him one, then teach him how to build more for himself. Should be fun.
I'll keep you posted. I'd also love to see some of your pics.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Another tip I learned... It stays light now till 9:00 so I don't need to use a headlight. If you put a red piece of tape over the lens (from an auto parts store) it can be used as a tail light.  I Velcro it to the top of my seat bag and it stays put. It's nice and bright!

Thanks plesurnpain -- I think you are better off with 4 AA's like tamen00 said. Keep us updated and let us know how it works out. Building them can get addictive!


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## plesurnpain (Sep 9, 2007)

*Thanks Again*

tamen00
I do plan on adding switches. I was thinking plugs first, but I'm rethinking that plan. I like what you did w/the remote switches. The original plan was the cheapest and most simple. Now it might be cheap and simple. I'm starting to feel a little more confident. The idea w/ AA's and plus was that they could easily be chaned/upgraded later. We'll see. I'll let you know what's up.
p97z
4 AA's it is. I think that's a good start.


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## mrpincher (May 12, 2008)

Wow p97z Thanks & Great thread Everyone. This kind of use-able info is what the www. was supposed to be for - I thunk Ya! 
Honestly, I have been in a quagmire trying to decide what to do about lighting on this summer's bike tour. $400.00 is just way to much for me to spend on any kind of manufactured lighting. This thread saved me from buying a bunch of flashlights.
So now I'm in the process of building a Seoul flood, Cree spot and a Seoul flashing taillight. 
Cormpus - I found the 1"tubing in Lowes last night. It was not in the rack with the other metals.....It was only available in 8' lengths and it was in a tall rack to the left. Hope you can find something. And BTW - Yes I rode my bike to Lowes - And Yes the salesman seemed to think it was funny that I'd have to buy a hack saw to shorten the tubing because I was unable to bicycle with this 8' rod. I wish I could have tested the tubing's tonal qualities by giving him a sharp rap on his beanie. Be well - Ride long.


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## scuba (May 14, 2008)

p97z said:


> I had some problems with the radio shack toggle switch. The first switch couldn't take the heat of the soldering iron and the second lasted for about a week. Radio Shack replaced the metal toggle switches with plastic ones. The case is made of plastic and the toggle is still metal. They don't hold up well at all. Because I had two failures a fellow co-worker talked me into making a push button switch. The push button should be a little more water proof. Here's a finished picture. The push button also works better with multi-mode drivers.


sorry for my ignorance but can you show how the push button is connected to the driver to enable mode switching and does it do on off also ?


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## scuba (May 14, 2008)

any chance of a full list of parts and wiring diagram for switch or is it a no brainer ?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

mrpincher -- Thanks for the verbal picture. I can just see you riding a bike with two 4 foot pieces of aluminum. 

scuba-- The switch i'm using is from digi-key. When you push the switch it will toggle from always on to always off. Wiring the switch is a no-brainer. You can wire it in series with the + (plus) or - (minus) side of the driver. I usually use the - (minus) side. As far as drivers go you can pick any of the ones suggested above.

Here's a link to the switch : http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...?name=519PB-ND and here's a link to the rubber boots : http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5742


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## mrpincher (May 12, 2008)

*lens and holder*

p97z - I need some help with lens and holder for a flashing rear light.

I believe I can use this LED and driver together?? If so, what lens and holder will I need that fit into the 1" tubing? Thanks - Thanks
LED =http://www.ledsupply.com/lxhl-lh3c.php
Driver = http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=3151

I'm planning to hook this rear light into the same power source as a cree spot and a seoul flood for some possible night riding in July. Am planning to use 4 each 1.2v 4500mAh NiMH to run the whole thing. Any thoughts?

Oh, a friend is wiring all this up and he mentioned a capacitor and a diode - I believe. By training I'm a woodworker.....wood makes nice light but its too heavy to carry on long distance bike ride...:madmax: Thanks

Thanks from MrPincher


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

mrpincher -- That driver will work with that LED. I have that driver in several lights and it works great! However, it doesn't work with one battery running more then one LED at a time. I tried two of those drivers with two Q5 CREE's running from a single 3.7v 4400mah lithium battery. The battery protection will kick in after about 10 seconds and shut the lights off. It may work better with a nickel metal hydride battery pack with a higher voltage. The voltage probably drops too low with two CREE's in parallel on a 3.7v battery.


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## mrpincher (May 12, 2008)

*Thanks for the Information*

p97z - Thanks for the benefit of your experience & your time. I didn't mention in the earlier post the four batteries are D cells each 1.2v 4500mAh NiMH. Is that enough power to run three led's? Would you be able to recommend a better power source? I have not ordered the batteries and charger yet. All the led parts are on the way. The light casings are ready and waiting. Thanks again.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

mrpincher -- I don't know how well two lights with those drivers will work with 4 D cells. I used that same driver (http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Produ...px?TranID=3151) with a different driver, wired to a 6v nicad battery and it worked. The only problem with the 6v battery is that when it was in flash mode, the other light flashed also. The other light was not distracting but the flashing was noticeable if you looked for it. I don't have two lights anymore or I would run some experiments for you. Sorry I can't help, I gave away almost all the lights that I made.

Also the clicky switch with the rubber boot has worked flawlessly for every light I've made.


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## RippleChip (Sep 30, 2007)

Great job p97z and everyone else that has tackled this.

I have an old VistaLite setup, one with a broken light, that I figure is a great starting point. The batteries still put out pretty reasonable power, they are 2200mAH NIMH (6-7V) nightsticks. Looking for thoughts on using those with the following build.

Seoul LED on Star
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445

3.6-9V 900MA Board
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

L2 20mm Optic, 15 degree
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php

L2 20mm Optic, 5 degree
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-005.php

L2 Star Optic Holder
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php

I'm going to see if I can use all the connectors, switches, possibly light body. If not, I'll be using the DIY Dinotte style as those are slick as can be.

I've got a headlamp, thinking of doing a dual 15 degree for the flood, would that be enough or is a flood and spot a better option.

Thanks.


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

*best 20mm cree flood optic I have used is fraen*

A while back i ordered some stuff from cutter for an mr11 tripple and I also picked up a single fraen 15deg in a 20mm form factor. It came with a lens holder for the cree that just did not work. Luckily I had a spare cree 8deg holder and filed the nub on the fraen lens just a little bit and and sure enough it popped into the 8deg cree holder. The beam is nothing short of incredible. The lens is textured to look like an insect eye. The edge of the beam is kind of jagged but its totally round and makes a very nice wide even spot with no spill at all. Would be interested to see how the carclo stuff that costs 2x as much does or the ultra small hex shaped polymer optics stuff that are like $12 a lens.

P.S. I have half an easton carbon handle bar that I may use for my next light. I am told carbon has decent thermal properties, only one way to find out.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks RippleChip!

Spot and flood is a personal preference. I like a flood on the bars and a spot on the helmet. I suggest you by two of each (5 and 15) and try them out. The optics are cheap so you can even try the wider ones if you like. You can pop them in and out of the holder and see which one you like better. The nice thing about making your own light is that you can try different options and see what you like best. I've even replaced the optics after I've sealed them with silicone. The silicone will peal off and you can try something else.

Experiment and share your experience...


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## RippleChip (Sep 30, 2007)

Thanks, I'll give it a shot and let you know. I think I'll make a few of each so we can mix and match as needed at the races.


That setup seems pretty straight forward, see any issues with it?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I've had problems with the radio shack toggle switch. The toggle doesn't hold up to the weather. I haven't had any issues with the push button with the silicone cap. Since I've gone to the new switch I haven't had any issues at all. I've had several DOA drivers but if the driver works the ones I've used have been reliable. 

I had one fall off the seat bag and get wrapped around the rear wheel. After it flew a few hundred yards I went back and picked it up. The radio shack switch broke and the wire pulled out. I replaced the wire and switch and it's now working fine. If you silicone the driver into the brass plug it will survive anything except over voltage!  Lesson learned: If you use one for a tail light. Make sure it's secure!


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## RippleChip (Sep 30, 2007)

For those that have switched away from the Tamiya plugs, what are you guys running?


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## mtbAndy (Jun 7, 2004)

*no Tamiya plugs for me...*



RippleChip said:


> For those that have switched away from the Tamiya plugs, what are you guys running?


I've never used the Tamiya plug on mine. I've been using size m coaxial power plugs. The reason I did this is I have an existing battery pack that came with my old Cygolite setup and it uses this plug. It's 6v and 3ah so it works quiet well. They are also easy to use on my 4xAA packs.


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

*Deans plugs all the way*

I use deans connectors, they seem very water resistant, they are tough and there electrical characteristics and industry leading. They are also cheap and light weight. They take quite a bit of force to pull apart as well, also they are imposable to reverse polarity. Dealextreme.com has them now so there really cheap.


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## Wadejp (Dec 28, 2007)

I have finally ordered all of the parts get started with the exception of the battery. I found this on Battery Space. The price looks right and I think it will drive a single light for a couple of hours.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1209

Does anyone see a problem using this battery?

Thanks in advance - I would never have gotten this far with all your help.

Jim


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Wadejp -- That battery and charger combo should work fine. I use a 7.4v 2200mah battery for the front and a 3.7v 4400mah battery for the tail light. I dip my batteries in "Plasti Dip" so they are waterproof. Here is a picture of a Dinotte style tail light setup. It's a little dirty because it rained today. I use electrical tape to tape the battery to the seat tube. I have two connectors so I can charge the battery on the bike. Those smart charges are slow... like 8+ hours slow... I usually charge the batteries at work so it's kind of a pain to tape and re-tape the battery. In the winter I put the battery in the seat bag. So far no problems commuting with the light setup! :thumbsup:


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## dorme1 (Aug 26, 2007)

Well I'm getting close to finishing my first set of DIY lights ever, Thanks p97z for the great design and all your helpful pics and posts. I have a really dumb question. what are you using to cover the wires? I bought some 1/8th inch hose from the hardware store and it's walls seem kind of thick and it's pretty stiff. I'm going to go back today and look at the 1/4 inch, hopefully the O.D. is the same and the I.D. is bigger. Anyways and ideas would be appreciated, thanks again!


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

dorme1 said:


> Well I'm getting close to finishing my first set of DIY lights ever, Thanks p97z for the great design and all your helpful pics and posts. I have a really dumb question. what are you using to cover the wires? I bought some 1/8th inch hose from the hardware store and it's walls seem kind of thick and it's pretty stiff. I'm going to go back today and look at the 1/4 inch, hopefully the O.D. is the same and the I.D. is bigger. Anyways and ideas would be appreciated, thanks again!


dorme1 -- I'm glad I could help!

I haven't used anything to cover the wires. The wires are bonded together so I haven't need to cover them with anything. The wire and connectors are from Digi-key http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=CP-2217-ND . The wire itself has been waterproof enough. Make sure to apply silicone where the wire goes into the light body, just to waterproof the entry point.

If you are using separate wires and are looking for a way to keep them together you could try using heat shrink tubing. You can get heat shrink at Home Depot, Radio Shack and many electronic places.


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## dorme1 (Aug 26, 2007)

Oh wow that makes things much easier than what I did! Question though, do those connectors lock at all? How is digi key on delivery time?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

The connectors don't lock but I don't think we need them. The only problem I've had, was when my tail light fell off and got wrapped around the rear hub. The wire was cut and the light flew several hundred yards.  I don't think a locking connector would have helped in that case. Good thing there was no traffic at the time.

The connectors have a good snug fit. They are not waterproof but have been through rain, snow, salt, grime etc. For the price you can't go wrong.

As far as Digi-Key delivery... I think I ordered on a Sunday or Monday and got a box of goodies on Thursday. No complaints about Digi Key from me!


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## RippleChip (Sep 30, 2007)

LED Supply order showed up today, not bad to Canada in 3 days. Now I just have to wait for DX before I can really get going on this. Such a tease. This weekend I am going to hit up HD or Lowes to get all the remaining parts. Can't wait to get my hands dirty building these.


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## UpRocks (Jun 24, 2004)

RippleChip said:


> Can't wait to get my hands dirty building these.


Just wait until you ride with them.  Good stuff.


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## cormpus (Jul 4, 2007)

I ordered one of these drivers:

3.6V-9V Circuit Board 
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

I want to put an on-off switch in the circuit. Anybody have any idea which of the little holes get the wires?


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## mtbAndy (Jun 7, 2004)

cormpus said:


> I ordered one of these drivers:
> 
> 3.6V-9V Circuit Board
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256
> ...


I used that same controller. You lead wires from the batteries don't connect into any holes. I soldered mine to the back. The outer ring is the ground and the inner is positive. For a switch you can put it inline on either the + or - side. Which you use is personal preference. I made two versions for my lights, one uses a toggle switch on the back of the light the other uses an inline clicky switch ( http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5602 ) between the battery and the light.


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

Ditto what hank said - I wired a toggle switch on the + side, ie between the centre and the positive on the battery.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Ditto what hank and dave said -- I think i used the - side but it doesn't matter... Pick the + side or the - side. Just make sure that the + is the center circle and the - is the outside edge.


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## cormpus (Jul 4, 2007)

Thanks guys, I did it, and got a really nice, bright light. Yay! Then, I idiotically moved the rear cap around and broke the wire from the LED to the driver. Doh! It will take me hours, I'm sure to disassemble this mutha! I think I'll just build another, and hope I do it better this time. Idiot!


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## RippleChip (Sep 30, 2007)

Awesome, my parts have all arrived so now the real fun DIY time begins. I'll be off to Lowes tonight to get the final pieces for the build.


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## UpRocks (Jun 24, 2004)

cormpus said:


> Then, I idiotically moved the rear cap around and broke the wire from the LED to the driver.


It's not just you. The pre-wires on this board are very vulnerable to detachment. I have re-soldered the wires on a couple of these boards, and I expect to reinforce them on future builds using this driver.

Sorry about your luck. If the heat sink was thermally bonded to the inside of the housing, I'm not sure how you will be able to salvage the light.

Let us know how it turns out.


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## RippleChip (Sep 30, 2007)

Damn, my order arrived and no leds, got everything else but they haven't shipped from DX yet []

Guess I'll buy all the other parts and get everything sorted out so it won't take long once they arrive.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I should probably have mentioned not to use the pre-wires... I had one break but the light was not put it together yet. I was testing the driver before mixing the epoxy and a wire broke off. Since then I add thicker wires and I make them long enough to reach outside the housing. I thought it was just me being clumsy and didn't think about posting a warning.


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## dazzat3 (May 4, 2008)

p97z,

Any thoughts of using SSC P7 in your design and pumping out some where towards 900 lumen, or is this just crazy? :crazy:


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## RippleChip (Sep 30, 2007)

I just want to double check the wiring setup, make sure I am not off on anything before starting this.

From the plug, negative will run through the clicky switch and then to the outside edge of the driver. Negative off the driver to the led. Positive lead will run directly to the center circle of the driver, and then off to the led. 

You replaced the thin wires on the driver with thicker, and these are the ones that attach to the led.

I plan on wiring it all up, shrink wrapping everything to protect for shorting but leaving enough wire to move things around when building. 

Missing the plugs for the end at this point, didn't think the 3/4" ones would be the right ones to use but now I realize they are. Unfortunately HD only had bronze, have to go back to Lowes to get silver.


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## UpRocks (Jun 24, 2004)

RippleChip said:


> I just want to double check the wiring setup, make sure I am not off on anything before starting this.
> 
> From the plug, negative will run through the clicky switch and then to the outside edge of the driver. Negative off the driver to the led. Positive lead will run directly to the center circle of the driver, and then off to the led.
> 
> ...


Dude. That all sounds good to me.

A couple of shots from last night using the DIYs for a little supplemental lighting...
View attachment 366570

View attachment 366571


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## thebronze (Jan 13, 2004)

I've been using this mount on my build and it works great. I would love an aluminum version.










https://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1993


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

dazzat3 -- YES! As soon as 20mm optics come out, I'm going to try a P7 in this housing. I will probably need to add more surface area for cooling though.

RippleChip -- Sounds like you are good to go. 

UpRocks -- It looks like it's raining really hard!  Cool shots of the waterfall. Must be some nice trails your riding!


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## RippleChip (Sep 30, 2007)

I got a lot of my wiring done last night, but I can't find those copper plugs. Everything HD and Lowes had were caps that are too large, nothing that slides inside. I guess the search continues, but this is quite the pain.

Still waiting for the leds as well...


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## RippleChip (Sep 30, 2007)

What is everyones thoughts on using test caps for the heat sink, would it be enough?


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## Calina (Apr 8, 2008)

RippleChip said:


> What is everyones thoughts on using test caps for the heat sink, would it be enough?


What is that? Where did you get it?


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## RippleChip (Sep 30, 2007)

It is a very thin copper cap. I got it at a plumbing supply store.

It's 3/4" around, 5mm tall, and less than a mm thick


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## Calina (Apr 8, 2008)

Oh, I thought it was solid copper !  

Thanks!


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## RippleChip (Sep 30, 2007)

Unfortunately not, as to why I am concerned if it would be enough of a heat sink for these leds.

I'm considering AAing two of them together so it has more surface area and a little thicker base


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## Calina (Apr 8, 2008)

You could always stick one or two old (copper) pennies to it.


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## UpRocks (Jun 24, 2004)

RippleChip said:


> What is everyones thoughts on using test caps for the heat sink, would it be enough?


I really don't know. Just guessing here, but if I were to use them, I would definitaly use more than one (3-4?) and use plenty of AA between their mating edges and between the outer diameter and the housing to aid thermal transfer.

Are they a snug fit inside the housing?


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

You could also check out a metal supply yard and find a piece of aluminum bar stock that fits inside the tubing you purchased. I bought a piece that was just a little bit big for the tubing and filed it down to fit snug, cut a 1"long piece and slid it into the housing with some AA... works great! I have been mtb'ing with these lights in 100+ temps in AZ and they are not overheating... the housing ets warm, but not too warm to hold in your hand.

The only downside is the housing gets a little longer becasue you can not fit the driver inside the copper cap...


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

Hey p97, have you seent he new 4 die crees that are coming out (in the next few months, no eta)?? The footprint is the same as the XRE series and they are expected to work with current cree lenses... sweeeeet!!! It looks like they can be configured so you can turn on or off the individual dies, and also run them series/parallel... sweeeeet!!!

Anyway, I have a couple of the P7's and have been trying all kinds of stuff to get them to work in a 20 mm housing, however the reflectors and lenses have not been working out for me. I have a nice 38mm seconics lens, however I do not want a light that big... the P7has been kind of a let down so far to me because of the power required to drive the sucker and the short runtimes... I am having better luck with the original DIY lights, just running 2 on the bar and one on the helmet... oh well...

But, in the near future these things are going to blow everything else out of the water!!! WOOO HOOOOO!!!


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## RippleChip (Sep 30, 2007)

These are a tight fit, they go into the tubing and are snug. I tried last night AAing two together, that gives some more thickness under the LED by having the caps against each other, and makes 10mm height and contact all the way around the outer tube.

Its an option at this point, I haven't heard back yet but a local plumbing supply was going to get some copper insert plugs so this might be all for nothing. I'll get back to you UpRocks when that sorts itself out.


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## UpRocks (Jun 24, 2004)

RippleChip said:


> I'll get back to you UpRocks when that sorts itself out.


Cool. No rush. Good luck with the search.



tamen00 said:


> ...new 4 die crees that are coming out (in the next few months, no eta)?? The footprint is the same as the XRE series and they are expected to work with current cree lenses... sweeeeet!!! It looks like they can be configured so you can turn on or off the individual dies, and also run them series/parallel... sweeeeet!!!


WOOT!



tamen00 said:


> I am having better luck with the original DIY lights, just running 2 on the bar and one on the helmet...


You know, as excited as I am about brighter lights, these small units are so effective that I really don't need any more light than what you are describing here...won't keep me from building with the new stuff, however.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

tamen00 -- I can't wait to try some of the new LED's! A small 900 lumen flood bar light would be awesome!


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

RippleChip -- You will have to epoxy several of them together then let them dry. The problem with using a thin heat sink is keeping it straight in the housing. It will flip flop and then the epoxy will wipe off as you push it in the housing. It should work though if you can glue enough of them together. Let us know how it works out...


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## Calina (Apr 8, 2008)

p97z said:


> RippleChip -- You will have to epoxy several of them together then let them dry. The problem with using a thin heat sink is keeping it straight in the housing. It will flip flop and then the epoxy will wipe off as you push it in the housing. It should work though if you can glue enough of them together. Let us know how it works out...


Don't use glue. Solder them! You'll get a better heat sink and it will be sturdier.


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## pjc223 (Jun 9, 2008)

*Couple of Questions from New Zealand*

First up this a great series thanks to all who have been here before me:thumbsup: .

I am not looking for any guarantees but am planning to purchase all of the elctronic needs fro LEDSUPPLY.COM as it will be easier from this end of the world, have others had positive experiences with them?

The copper cup that is used as heat sink appears to be installed with the cup toward the back, is there any reason for this? I am planning to use a similar product but facing forward as the optics will fit in it and it will be easier to install/fix that way.

Cheers

Pete
Auckland
New Zealand


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

pjc223 - I have had good luck with led supply, For the copper cup, you can install it the other way as long as the optics are not too deeply buried. It will depend on the size of the cup and the depth of the optics. If the copper cup is too long you can always cut it.

Calina and RippleChip -- I should have said Arctic Alumina instead of glue in the above comment.


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## breakfast tacos (Jul 6, 2008)

I really like this design and I'd like to try it, but with a different emitter. I'm wondering if we could make this work with the SSC P7. It looks like optics are kinda hard to find for this right now (I don't think the optic I have here includes a lens), but hopefully something will come out soon.

This isn't a complete parts list. I still don't know what I'd use for a slug, or what I'd use for the back end of the housing (where the power cable would go). It's a bit more expensive, but the P7 looks like it's super bright.

*LED - $23.20
*SSC P7 C-Bin LED Emitter with 21mm Heat Sink Base (3.6V~3.7V)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12721

*Reflector - $5.24*
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12229

*Driver - $6.97*
3.6V~9V 800mA Regulated IC Circuit Board for Cree and SSC LEDs (4-pack)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

*Housing - $16.28/ft*
2" unthreaded aluminum pipe (Part Number: 4561T611)
http://www.mcmaster.com/

*Battery - $19.99*
Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 6600 mAh Rechargeable Battery module with PCB
https://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1144


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

breakfast tacos said:


> SSC P7 C-Bin LED
> Driver - $6.97
> 3.6V~9V 800mA Regulated IC Circuit Board for Cree and SSC LEDs (4-pack)


Are you going to use all of those drivers in parallel? Kai or Dx do a single 2.8A driver.


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## breakfast tacos (Jul 6, 2008)

I was planning on using just one driver. They come in a 4-pack, and I figured if this works out I'd use the other 3 for another project.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

breakfast tacos said:


> I was planning on using just one driver. They come in a 4-pack, and I figured if this works out I'd use the other 3 for another project.


Thats an 800mA driver. P7 can be driven at 2.8A... be about 3x brighter with the 2.8A driver ... roughly -> ... 700lm vs 230lm.

Tough decision.


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## breakfast tacos (Jul 6, 2008)

Well then hell yeah I'll use that driver; thanks for pointing that out.

Another option I'm thinking of, and let me know if this is stupid, is to buy this flashlight, which uses a P7:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13060

The only problem is that you get about 50-60 minutes of runtime with the battery (a single 18650 cell). I'm thinking about drilling a hole in the endcap and somehow using the battery I linked to above. That would give me closer to a 2.5-3 hour runtime I think. I'd prefer not to have to stop riding to switch out a battery.

Or maybe I'll just go with that flashlight and carry a spare cell. I don't know. I'm really just looking to get the most bang for my buck here, with a 2-3 hour runtime.


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## russ_1_4 (Feb 5, 2008)

Try this driver if you want to use a P7

http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=5296

Bit pricey but lets you use your existing bike light batteries.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

breakfast tacos -- Anything that uses a reflector may be too spotty for cycling. Here's a video on youTube of the flashlight you mentioned.


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## MikeyLikesIt (Dec 9, 2007)

p97z,

I am brand new to the 'bike light' board and ran across this thread. Love your design and want to build a few so I have a couple of questions for you or anyone for that matter.

I have several feet of alum tubeing with ID 3/4"...are there optics/etc. that will fit this or do I need to purchase the 1"? BTW, I am a dental lab tech and I can cast an alum or copper heat sink that will fit the 3/4 if that matters. 

I also have some 1" thin wall stainless steel but I don't know about heat transfer with stainless. Again, I can cast an alum heat sink. 

Thanks for sharing your design,
Mikey


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

MikeyLikesIt -- For the L2 optics that I used the Diameter of the holder is 21.37mm or .834inches. As long as the aluminum tube you are using is a little bigger it should work fine. I don't think the heat transfer using stainless is as good as aluminum so i'm not sure how well it would work. Also make sure you order enough parts to make more then one... building them gets addicting.


----------



## MikeyLikesIt (Dec 9, 2007)

p97z said:


> MikeyLikesIt -- For the L2 optics that I used the Diameter of the holder is 21.37mm or .834inches. As long as the aluminum tube you are using is a little bigger it should work fine. I don't think the heat transfer using stainless is as good as aluminum so i'm not sure how well it would work. Also make sure you order enough parts to make more then one... building them gets addicting.


Thanks p97z. Today I came across some scrap 1" aluminum tubeing (probably enough to do 20 lights...free  ) so I won't be using the stainless. I'd still like to see if I can make some out of the 3/4"...we'll see. I found some reflectors that may work but I'll do what I know works first. What you are using is too big for the 3/4".

I have a couple of bikes and I have 3 sons and a few nephews that ride so I may be making these by the dozens. 

Anyway, I'm glad I stumbled upon this thread. This kind of project is right up my alley. Thanks again.
Mikey


----------



## coombs (Jun 22, 2005)

Hello Gentlemen,
I've been psyching myself up to do this. As a read about drivers and batteries, I've become concerned about my plan. Can I run this battery with this cheap driver? Will the 3.7 volts be too low to run an led and the driver? I know I could use a buck/boost, but I want to go cheaper. Thanks.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

coombs -- You could use this driver with the 3.7v battery. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4255

The Cheap Driver you posted does not work well with that 3.7v battery...

MikeyLikesIt -- Keep us up to date on how things are going.


----------



## palndrm12 (May 2, 2005)

I must also admit spending countless hours lurking on this post and it is absolutely amazing. I thank all who have posted and p97z for starting this following. I am finally about to get some parts together to build a few of these lights (or a hundred...depending on how fast I get addicted). It definitely has been a PITA tracking down the parts and figuring out what goes with what. The following is what I am going to attempt to build mostly for commuting.

*2 Bar Mounted Lights:*
Seoul LEDs
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445

15 deg L2 w/ holder
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php

3.6V~9V 800mA Driver
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

Battery (Not really sure...any thoughts???)
I would like to use the same battery for both lights if possible.

*Tail Light:*

Seoul LED
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445

15 deg L2 w/ holder (Would a 5 deg be better for this application?)
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php

3.6V~9V 800mA Driver (Can anyone suggest a multi-mode driver for this application?)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

Battery (Not really sure...any thoughts???)

*Helmet Mounted Light:*
Seoul LED
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445

5 deg L2 w/ holder
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php

3.6V~9V 800mA Driver
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

Battery (Not really sure...any thoughts???)

I plan on using the same setup for switches, covers, and cables for all three lights per one of p97z's earlier posts. The links are below.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=CP-2217-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=519PB-ND
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5742

I am really confused about what batteries blow up what drivers and I also want to make sure I am optimizing my LED's. I would like to use the Li's but they seem to be the ones causing the problems.

So my main questions would be:
1) Battery combinations for each application. Any recommended chargers for suggested batteries?
2) How do you wire two lights off one battery if possible?
3) Should I use a 5 degree optic for a tail light instead of the 15 degree?
4) Is there a recommended multi-mode driver for a tail light?

I think those are all my questions for now I am sure I missed one or ten. If there is anything else that seems screwy with my setup please feel free to let me know.

Thanks in advance!


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

palndrm12 said:


> *Tail Light:*
> 
> Seoul LED
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445
> ...


For a tail light you want a red LED. 800mA is probably too much, 350 will be fine. These 80x10degree optics are good and will point the light at drivers anywhere behind you. 
In general there are heaps of good cheap reliable red tail lights out there and its not worth the hassle making your own.

For a front light you do need a multi mode driver. 800mA will cook most lights when not moving.


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## pjc223 (Jun 9, 2008)

palndrm12, thanks for putting up your list and your questions.

I am about to do the same as you and place an order after several weeks of observation of the forum.

Can I ask why you went for the Seoul P4 led as compared to the CREE XR-E Q5 (Dealextreme SKU 2394)? From my reading only a $1 difference in price and more lumins? There are 10 degree optics for a bit over a $1 each SKU 1920.

I have been significantly concerned about the problem with the heat and 800ma, have you considered SKU 7425, 5 modes, high, low, 2 x strobe (useless for us) and a 8 sec flash ( could be used for commuting only $3.45 each, compared to 4 for $6.97 . This apparently does not give out 1amp but around 800ma and 250ma.

I agree with znomit regarding tail lights, there are plenty of Cateye copies out there that do a great job. Save you time and dollars for the front end where all the action is.

Cheers

Pete
Auckland, NZ


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

palndrm12 --

1) You can use a Li 7.4v battery pack with the driver you listed. I haven't had any problems so far. 
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4453
http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=507

2) You'll want to wire the batteries in parallel. I made a Y adapter and plug two lights into one battery. keep in mind you will cut run-time in half.
3) I think you'll want a wide angle lens for the tail light. I put a piece of red tape on the tail light instead of buying a red led. Using a red led is brighter though.
4) I don't see the multi-mode driver that I used listed on kaidomain anymore.


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## coombs (Jun 22, 2005)

p97z,
What kind of run times do you get with the 7.4V 2200mAh pack and two lights with the 3.6-9V 800mA drivers? Thanks!


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## notaknob (Apr 6, 2004)

*You didn't ask me but...*



coombs said:


> p97z,
> What kind of run times do you get with the 7.4V 2200mAh pack and two lights with the 3.6-9V 800mA drivers? Thanks!


Based on this calculator, two 3.7v LEDs off of a 7.4v 2200mah pack driven at 800 mA with about 85% efficiency will get a bit over 2 hours, 20 minutes.


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## palndrm12 (May 2, 2005)

tamen00 said:


> Looks like a good list to start with, and pretty much exactly what I went with for my builds. I had good luck with the DX cheap drivers running the Seoul leds. Also, you may want to consider getting a spot lens for the helmet light, the 15 degree flood works good for the bars, however it does not throw very far... here is the URL:
> http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-005.php
> 
> Also, one other thing you may want to consider is running the light with a 4 cell battery pack instead of the 3 cell. I think that it may work with 3 cells, however that driver requires a little extra voltage, and your burn times will be longer with the 4 cell pack. I am getting a little less than 2 hours out of 4 2500 mah nimh cells with my lights (I did not use 4 aa very often, I switched to 7.2v li battery packs.... works awesome, 3.5 hour runtime!!!)
> ...


p97z - Thanks for the help! I saw earlier that Tamen00 was using the 4400mah...based on the run time calculator it looks like it will give me longer run time. Have you had any issues using the 4400mah's?

Tamen00 - Have you had any issues with the combo you mentioned above with the 4400mah battery? What driver are you using with that combo?


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

You can use any mah/hr battery with that driver as long as the voltage of the battery pack does not exceed 9 volts. I have a 6600 mah, 7.2v Li battery that works great...

One item to note. Those 3.7-9v deal extreme drivers really do not work with voltages over the 7.2 li battery. Fully charged those opacks are a little over 8.4v for a few minutes and the driver seems to heat up a bunch right at the beginning (and I cooked a couple of them). I would not recommend going over the 7.2V lithium battery with these...

HAve fun building them up!! I am just waiting for my mce's to come in!!


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## palndrm12 (May 2, 2005)

All thank you for your replys. I think I will go with the 7.4V 4400mah to get more run time and I might also get a couple of 7.4V 2200mah for the tail and helmet lights.



> Can I ask why you went for the Seoul P4 led as compared to the CREE XR-E Q5 (Dealextreme SKU 2394)? From my reading only a $1 difference in price and more lumins? There are 10 degree optics for a bit over a $1 each SKU 1920.


I read several posts stating that even though the CREE's had better output they had shorter run times. I also saw that many had success with the combination that I went with and being new to DIY I wanted my first build to have a chance at working.

As far as the tail lights go I will look into the suggested driver thanks pjc223! I was going to purchase the tail light but I thought it would be more fun to make my own even if it did cost a little more. If I screw it up I will most definitely purchase one though.

I had a bit of trouble finding the tubing at Lowes and Home Depot. Is everyone using conduit or something else?

It also seems that copper plugs for that size are going out of style and are being replaced with end caps which don't seem to fit. I did find some plugs at a specialized plumbing supplier but he hadn't sold any in 2 years and they were like $5 a piece.

Well hopefully I will get the rest ordered tonight and start building soon!

Thanks again everyone!


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## UpRocks (Jun 24, 2004)

palndrm12 said:


> I had a bit of trouble finding the tubing at Lowes and Home Depot. Is everyone using conduit or something else?


No one had it around here. I ordered it through McMaster-Carr.


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## MikeyLikesIt (Dec 9, 2007)

p97z, or anyone...

I just typed up a report on my latest experiments but for some reason Photobucket won't let me upload my pics right now :madman: ....so, while I'm trying to figure that out, I thought I'd ask a question or two. 

With all the new and powerful LEDs coming out, and considering the difficulty in building a housing, wouldn't it be best to attach the LED star with screws and heat transfer paste rather than AA epoxy? With the heat sink epoxied permenantly inset into the housing, do you think, with screws, it would be easier to upgrade the emitter sometime in the future? Or, is it easy enough to pop out the old emitter and glue in another? (I'm just trying to sort all this stuff out before I actually build this thing...and, I'm lazy and would like to save myself some work down the road  ) Thought's?

Mikey


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

I've removed AA'd stars before, not too hard. The AA left behind was brittle and scraped off. 
Probably easier than getting epoxy off. Screws would be nice but more machine work.

You don't really need AA either, you can just use thermal paste under the star and a little epoxy around the side to hold it. BTW AA costs a fortune but you need very little.


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## notenoughtime (Sep 7, 2004)

MikeyLikesIt said:


> p97z, or anyone...
> 
> I just typed up a report on my latest experiments but for some reason Photobucket won't let me upload my pics right now :madman: ....so, while I'm trying to figure that out, I thought I'd ask a question or two.
> 
> ...


I did mine that way. I mounted by lights w/ artic alumina, which is a paste, and used two screws in the corners to hold the star down. Hopefully, as newer bins come out, they won't abadon the star form factor. Maybe in a year, I can get a newer, 30% brighter LED drop in for under $15. Here's mine, not DIY Dinotte, but I might give this single beam light a try. http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=389557


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## MarkkyMarkk (Jun 10, 2008)

*Doing it Down Under*

Hey Guys,

This is a fantastic thread, thanks for all the great info.
I've been lurking here for the couple of months getting my head around all this stuff & I thought I should share some of my experiences from what I've been able to put together. First up - I'm in Sydney, Australia so we don't have any Home Depot etc, so it took me a few weeks to hunt down some of the hardware parts locally. Other Aussies may find this useful.

I had to scour several hardware shops to find the Aluminium tubing & copper slug that would work together. Eventually I stumbled across a 1metre length of 1" tubing at Bunnings in Brookvale for $8.00, that was the last one they had. The copper slug was even harder to find - our plumbing must be different down here as none of the large hardware chains had anything resembling the pictures here & I had trouble explaining to shop staff what I needed. "No, I don't want to screw the plug to the outside of my tubing - I want it to slide smoothly down the inside!!!" Huh??? I thought that I was going to have to come up with a radically different design & I was about to give up altogether when I found one. Its called a "Yorkway N061 Stop End Brass 20mm 3/4in" for $3.12. (A very big thank-you to the plumbing section of Hardware & General at Brookvale.)

The end cap too, was frustratingly difficult to find. I couldn't find anything like the door sliders here, that look so great. Instead, I'm using a lid from a tube of Berrocca vitamin tablets. FREE.

I ordered all of the LED stuff from Kaidomain & delivery to Australia took less than 2 weeks. (Everything was in-stock) Not bad, however they seem to have recently upgraded their website & I've had to redo all the links to the parts I've been researching.

LED - $6.99 - Cree XR-E Q5 on Star 
OPTICS - $2.50 - 8deg Collimator Lens w holder Slightly too large diameter to slide into the tubing, but easy to reduce with some sandpaper in 5-10mins.
DRIVER - $12.99 (5-pack) - Regulated 1A 17mm Circuit  All of the modes are a bit too complicated, but I keep it on the Lo-Med-High that is good for my riding.

Other bits & pieces from a local electronics shop - JayCar (www.jaycar.com.au Use the Cat Nos to search the web site)

$5.95 Heatsink Plaster - cat no NM2014 (couldn't find Arctic Adhesive)
$9.95 Liquid Electrical Tape - cat no NM2836
$1.55 Heatshrink tubing - cat no WH5533
$1.55 DC Connector (Female) - cat no PP0511
$2.45 DC Connector (Male) - cat no PS0528
$2.20 Toggle Switch - cat no ST0300
$1.35 Rubber Hood for Switch - cat no ST0590

JayCar also have the Cree XR-E LEDs but they want $29.95 for one, (ZD0442) and I couldn't find any info about the bin number in their catalogue. However, they do have the 20mm optics in 10, 25, 45 degrees for the Cree's (HP1296, HP1297, HP1298), which is great as I could only find the 8 degree optics at Kaidomain. The 8deg works well for a long throw on the helmet mount, but I'm experimenting with the 25 & 45's as a bar mounted flood.

BATTERIES:
OK, all the talk here about batteries & charger confused me. I couldn't work out why they are all so expensive. Initially I was going to use some rechargeable NiMh AA's in a battery holder as I already have several and a charger, too. But then I thought I'd try an old Li-ion battery from a mobile phone that I don't use anymore. I soldered the wires to the battery's connections in a way that I can still slot the battery into the back of the phone to recharge it. This works great. The battery is a 3.7v Nokia BLD-3, but there is no capacity specced on it. I can get about 2 hours of runtime on high setting no problems, after which the light gradually fades. The battery is small enough that I can wedge it into a vent on my helmet & weighs nothing, and takes only a couple of hours to charge - I love it. And the best part is that they are widely available on eBay for less than $10.00 each. How good is that?

ISSUES:
Soldering - this is a pain. I had a lot of trouble keeping these tiny components in place while trying to keep the soldering tip & wire where I wanted it. I have some burnt fingers & melted plastic to prove it! I assumed that when the web page for the driver said that it came with the wire leads they would be attached - nope.

Switches - At first I was going to use a dome pushbutton switch (SP0656 from JayCar) to control the lights. These looked quite cool & are rated at IP67 for waterproofness. However, I soon learnt that they only come in with a momentary mode of operation, which means that as soon as you release the button the circuit is broken. They need to be kept depressed to keep the lights on!! What the? I can't work out why this is useful for anything.


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## pjc223 (Jun 9, 2008)

Excellent effort MarkkyMarkk, this would have to be the difinative posting for us on this side of the world.:thumbsup: 

I too have looked at the Kaidomain drive you used but was scared off by the lack of info on the Voltage in range, do you know what it is rated for?

Very impressed with your use of the phone battery, have a couple of these at home will have to test it out.

I have tried the Jaycar 20mm 45 degree optic and felt that it is tooo wide a pattern, the 25 degree is acceptable, but I understand from others that a 15 degree is the way to go if you can find one.

Being an expat Aussie here in NZ, I am confused as to whether it is "go the All Blacks" or "go the Aussies" this weekend.

Cheers

Pete
Auckland NZ


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I agree with pjc223, excellent job MarkkyMarkk!! 

I didn't know that some of these parts were so hard to get... Thanks for posting!


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## MarkkyMarkk (Jun 10, 2008)

Hey guys,

Thanks for the praise, this thread has helped me a great deal & I thought that it was time to come out of lurkdom & contibute my own 2c.

NZ Pete: The info for this driver that I'm using on the Kaidomain website has been "edited" since I bought them. Luckily I printed off a copy before they changed everything. Some of the important stuff thats missing is:
- Gives 960mA/300mA/120mA current regulation.
- Operates from 2.6V to 6V (works best from 3.5V)
- Voltage cut-off at 2.6V with 0.08mA

Also, it can be difficult to switch the driver between the 3 different modes sometimes. It can be annoying to get it stuck in the modes that includes the strobe settings when I just want it to cycle through the Lo-Med-Hi settings. (Sorry to all those drivers that think i'm a moving disco). But its getting a little easier with practice as I become more familiar with its quirks (features?). I'm keeping a look out for a proper push-on-push-off switch that's small enough as I reckon this'll be easier than the toggle type that I'm using.

Hope this helps,

MarkkyMarkk
Sydney, Australia.


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## Zero_Enigma (Dec 14, 2006)

znomit said:


> I've removed AA'd stars before, not too hard. The AA left behind was brittle and scraped off.
> Probably easier than getting epoxy off. Screws would be nice but more machine work.
> 
> You don't really need AA either, you can just use thermal paste under the star and a little epoxy around the side to hold it. BTW AA costs a fortune but you need very little.


Or buy a cheap or use a small screwdriver and sand the tip into a slim chisel like I did and use a hammer and tap the star (I'm using stars but would work with emitters) wih short taps. Takes about 1-3 taps. Trick is not to hold the hammer from flying out of you hand but still letting the hammer freeflow into the screwdriver allowing most energy transfer. If you're like me before holding back from hitting the screwdriver to get the star off I ended up with like 10 strikes to pop it off. Now I can put it off in mostly 1 strike or sometimes 2.


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## Hambonio (Jul 16, 2008)

I'm going to order some of the pushbutton switches mentioned earlier in this thread from DigiKey soon. Does anyone have any recommendation for some metal toggle switches from them, that would be useful in this light. I would like them to be small, and inexpensive, if possible. I looked at their website, but have no idea what's what, they must have 400,00 toggle switches!

Is there anything else that I should order from them? It seems a shame to pay shipping for just a few switches.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Hambonio -- Get some of these wires with connectors. They are great!

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=CP-2217-ND

They have too many switches... good luck!


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## txn (Oct 4, 2005)

*DIYnotte, Harbor Freight style*

I made a nice little helmet light using this flashlight from Harbor Freight.

I used the following components: 
Cree Q5 from Deal Extreme (DX)
Cheap 800ma driver from DX
8deg Cree optic from KaiDomain (sorry, link currently appears to be broken)

I disassembled the light, removing the LEDs, lock ring for the LEDs, and the wrist strap. To remove the lock ring, I jammed two 2mm allen wrenches into the holes of the ring and then twisted it out.

I disassembled the tailcap and removed the switch and spring. I bent the grounding terminal of the switch down so it would no longer contact the body. I soldered wires to the two terminals of the switch and reassembled the tailcap.

The copper NIBCO plug just need to slide into the head end of the flashlight body, but it fits too loosely. I cut 8 slots into the plug and flared out the sides to give it a snug fit. A little AA and the plug is firmly epoxied in place.


















I drilled a hole in the side of the flashlight body for the Size M battery terminal. I chose this to make it compatible with my 5Ah Cygolight battery. I then wired the driver to the battery terminal, switch, and LED.










Screw it all back together with a #17 plumbing gasket on top of the flashlight lens so it all fits together nicely.


















The finished product tonight.


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## UpRocks (Jun 24, 2004)

txn said:


> I made a nice little helmet light using this flashlight from Harbor Freight.


I really like the flashlight body. Will probably use it next time I build some of these.


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

yeah, nice find!! I am stopping at Harbor freight on the way home otnight to pick one of these up and try it... would make the whol process a lot simpler with the switch already installed, sort of waterproof, and not have to worry about the end caps on the pipe... very nice!


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## txn (Oct 4, 2005)

You can usually pick it up for $5, so it's really not that expensive.


You do have to be careful not to get AA smeared all over the body like I did; it will look much better.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Great Find! It's even anodized!
Thanks for posting pictures also...


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

OK, so I stopped at Harbor freight to pick up the flashlight... they had them on sale for 5 bucks. After looking around, I found a package that contained two flashlights for 10 bucks... and one was anodized red and the other blue... so spiffy colors. These are actually a little different than the one that you posted. They are about 1/2" shorter, and only the cap on the back unthreads so you can cut another 3/4 inch off the front to make the light body even shorter... sweeeet!!

Also, these flashlights are slightly larger diameter than the aluminim pipe from home depot, so instead of using the copper plug for the heatsink, a chunk of 1" aluminum bar stock fits perfectly inside without much filing!! Huge bonus!! (And you can get a foot of the barstock for about 6 bucks, enough to make 12 lights...)

I did a little digging and I think I found the same flashlights at dealextreme for a smoking price... two of them for $4.89. 
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1099

So, with the new MCE's coming, do you think this little flashlight body and a 1.5" solid piece of aluminum barstock AA'd inside the body will provide enought heatsink for them to run at 500 mah?? We will find out soon enough!! A 400+ lumen DIY Dinotte... sweeeeet!!!


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## txn (Oct 4, 2005)

Cool. Those DX lights appear to be the same as the HF ones, but half the price.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

tamen00 -- I have two of the lights (red and blue) that you are talking about. Have you tried to take one apart? I'm not sure how to get it apart without breaking it... Have you tried to take one apart yet?


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

Yeah, I took it apart and it was kind of a pain but it came apart....

First off, I unscrewed the tailcap, and took the battery holder out. Then I took a long allen wrench and pressed the LEDs and the lens out the front of the light. A couple sharp taps and it came right out. I really did not care about damaging the leds that came out of the body.... 

The switch was kind of a pain. I took a knife and cut the black plastic out untilt he switch came out. Then soldered the wires to it, and epoxied everything back in place... it actually looks exactly the same as before I started... with wires sticking out.

This is actually pretty slick becasue I always hated the way the switches looked on my DIY klights...


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## Pitto (Sep 26, 2005)

sorry,OT, but is anyone having issues with that link?

im keen to check these lights out now.


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

*DX lights*



tamen00 said:


> These are actually a little different than the one that you posted. They are about 1/2" shorter, and only the cap on the back unthreads so you can cut another 3/4 inch off the front to make the light body even shorter... sweeeet!!
> 
> Also, these flashlights are slightly larger diameter than the aluminim pipe from home depot, so instead of using the copper plug for the heatsink, a chunk of 1" aluminum bar stock fits perfectly inside without much filing!! Huge bonus!! (And you can get a foot of the barstock for about 6 bucks, enough to make 12 lights...)
> 
> ...


This customer image seems to suggest that they screw apart in two places:










So it isn't really possible to cut length out of it I guess. Would it be possible to just replace the LED with a single CREE XRE and direct drive from 3xAA. I am thinking about making a light for a friend (for commuting) and he would certainly prefer something fairly hassle-free.

BTW, what is the internal diameter of your light?


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

Hi, sorry about that... that is the same light the OP bought... the one that I bought is identical to these lights...

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3206

these are not as nice as the OP's flashlight, however they only unscrew from one end so you can cut it to length (only come in packs of 7 through DX though). I should have some pics of mine pretty soon... I just need to find time to build it up. One thing... this is a pretty crappy flashlight, and the aluminum is really thin, however with a 1" solid aluminum heatsink it shoud be fine.

There is also about 20 other lights on DX that would work. Just look for a diameter of about 1" and all the optics, drivers, etc that are in this post will work just fine.


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## dazzat3 (May 4, 2008)

znomit said:


> I've removed AA'd stars before, not too hard. The AA left behind was brittle and scraped off.
> Probably easier than getting epoxy off. Screws would be nice but more machine work.
> 
> You don't really need AA either, you can just use thermal paste under the star and a little epoxy around the side to hold it. BTW AA costs a fortune but you need very little.


Sidewinder computers have the best value AA that I have been able to find and their shipping to Australia & NZ is very reasonable too http://search.store.yahoo.net/cgi-b...g=sidewindercomputers&x=14&y=15&query=AATA-5G :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

tamen00 said:


> Hi, sorry about that... that is the same light the OP bought... the one that I bought is identical to these lights...
> 
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3206
> 
> ...


I have loads of these multi pack ones and have found that if you smash the switch out of the end cap ( it does not come out easy) then the end cap can be used as a front becouse it is the perfect size for a 20mm optic, just put an Oring in front of the optic before putting it in the end cap and if you have a few then use an end cap from one of the others with switch intact on the other end after you have cut the main tube to the required length.

Hope that makes sense, if not I'll do some pics tomorrow.


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

yetibetty said:


> I have loads of these multi pack ones and have found that if you smash the switch out of the end cap ( it dose not come out easy) then the end cap can be used as a front becouse it is the perfect size for a 20mm optic, just put an Oring in front of the optic before putting it in the end cap and if you have a few then use an end cap from one of the others with switch intact on the other end after you have cut the main tube to the required length.
> 
> Hope that makes sense, if not I'll do some pics tomorrow.


Sounds like a great idea. I'd love to see some pics anyway. Do you epoxy the former-end cap on to the trimmed-down front?

Is the O-ring for weather proofing or to stop it smashing the front lens?

They are so damn cheap I'd be really interested in using them for lights.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

glowinthedark said:


> Sounds like a great idea. I'd love to see some pics anyway. Do you epoxy the former-end cap on to the trimmed-down front?
> 
> Is the O-ring for weather proofing or to stop it smashing the front lens?
> 
> They are so damn cheap I'd be really interested in using them for lights.


Yes the O-ring is for weather proofing and the rest will have to be up to your imagination as I have not made one it's just an idea that I have for a very easy build. 
Thing is I just don't need yet another bike light. But it's good to put the idea out and see if it gets made. I took a pic of the end cap with optic and O-ring next to an unchanged end cap just to get you in the mood. Ooh and a buck puck will fit as well! Good luck


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## Hambonio (Jul 16, 2008)

I'm going to build this light with the cheap DX drivers(when I get them). Is the light brighter on 5 cells nimh? I'm assuming 6 cells nimh might be a little much for the driver?


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Had a play and this took 10 minuites. Best to screw the optic cap on then AA the switch cap into the tube after sanding down the threads, that way if you want to try different optics the front can be unscrewed.
If you are in the UK these torches are in pound shops for guess what...... a pound.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

*Downunder dynamo dinotte*

Put this together over a few hrs for a local commuter who keeps blowing 3w halogen bulbs in his dyno light.

Its dynamo driven, simple rectifier circuit and smoothing capacitor, waterproof switch, Q5 cree and the cree optic from Kai. 
Housing is inch square aluminium, plastic end cap seals one end and an easy mount for the switch. Other end is an acrylic window glued in place.
22$NZ worth of bits. 140lm.




























Hadn't done a dinotte style mount before. I used some dental putty, moulded around the bars and plonked the light on top, sets in 5 minutes. Ends up as a perfect rubber mount.

The housing design will fit an MC-E with the 20mm carlco optic and an nflex. :thumbsup:


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

yetibetty said:


> Had a play and this took 10 minuites. Best to screw the optic cap on then AA the switch cap into the tube after sanding down the threads, that way if you want to try different optics the front can be unscrewed.
> If you are in the UK these torches are in pound shops for guess what...... a pound.


Awesome job! Thanks for doing a bit of fiddling even though you don't need the lights yourself. They look so nice .. are you tempted a little to change your mind? 

Any Aus members seen these in Go-Lo shops or the like? The DX deal is a good one, but I don't really need 7 ...


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

yetibetty said:


> Had a play and this took 10 minuites. Best to screw the optic cap on then AA the switch cap into the tube after sanding down the threads, that way if you want to try different optics the front can be unscrewed.
> If you are in the UK these torches are in pound shops for guess what...... a pound.


Hi, where sell that? 

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

msxtr said:


> Hi, where sell that?
> 
> Greetings - Saludos
> 
> msxtr


msxtr you can buy at DealExtreme very chaep and modify.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

glowinthedark said:


> Awesome job! Thanks for doing a bit of fiddling even though you don't need the lights yourself. They look so nice .. are you tempted a little to change your mind?
> 
> Any Aus members seen these in Go-Lo shops or the like? The DX deal is a good one, but I don't really need 7 ...


Don't forget that you'll need two for every light that you make so if you have two on the bar and one on the helmet you'll get through the lot and have one left over for spare parts. Too good to miss at that price. And yes I may as well make a helmet light as I've half done it anyway.


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## txn (Oct 4, 2005)

yetibetty said:


> Had a play and this took 10 minuites. Best to screw the optic cap on then AA the switch cap into the tube after sanding down the threads, that way if you want to try different optics the front can be unscrewed.
> If you are in the UK these torches are in pound shops for guess what...... a pound.


Very cool. I did not get how you connected the head to the body. Did you thread the body after you cut it?


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

yetibetty said:


> msxtr you can buy at DealExtreme very chaep and modify.


Hi, thank you very much for the trick :thumbsup:

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

txn said:


> Very cool. I did not get how you connected the head to the body. Did you thread the body after you cut it?


No, once you have removed the switch from the tailcap and relaced it with an O-ring and 20mm optic it can be screwed back onto the rear end of the torch (the new front).

Now cut the tube to the required length and take a tailcap from one of the other torches with the switch still in place, this will not screw into the cut tube as there is no thread in the tube but with a little sanding this can be made a very tight fit and glued in place.

If you have the means you could thread the cut end of the tube.


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## tedsti (Oct 22, 2004)

Does anyone know of a good source for 15 degree, 20 mm optics in the US? I should add that I would prefer a clear 15 degree optic, not a narrower one with a diffuser. I don't want to wait forever. I have been looking at the Seoul P4 star or the CREE XR-E Q5 for LEDs. I can't find a good US source for the Q5s either. I am too impatient to wait 3 weeks to get them from Hong Kong.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

tedsti -- Check www.ledsupply.com they have the L2 optics talked about in this thread.


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## tedsti (Oct 22, 2004)

Thanks p97z. I wasn't sure if the L2s would work with the Seoul LEDs or not. The description made it sound like they were only for the Luxeons. The hardest part about this whole project is trying to match up LEDs with optics. If there is some magical thread that lists good combinations, I would love to see it.


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## notenoughtime (Sep 7, 2004)

tedsti said:


> Thanks p97z. I wasn't sure if the L2s would work with the Seoul LEDs or not. The description made it sound like they were only for the Luxeons. The hardest part about this whole project is trying to match up LEDs with optics. If there is some magical thread that lists good combinations, I would love to see it.


The nice thing about the P4 SSC LEDs is that they work as drop in replacements for any LuxIII application. The L2 optics that work for the LuxIII work fine with the Seouls. I'd recommend the 15 degree.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

tedsti -- Don't forget to get the lux III holder also. The holder makes it easy to snap in different lenses. You can mix and match and see which L2 optic you like best.


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## Pitto (Sep 26, 2005)

glowinthedark said:


> Awesome job! Thanks for doing a bit of fiddling even though you don't need the lights yourself. They look so nice .. are you tempted a little to change your mind?
> 
> Any Aus members seen these in Go-Lo shops or the like? The DX deal is a good one, but I don't really need 7 ...


autobarn have them from $9.00 each, which is expensive


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

*Source of cheap light bodies in Australia*



Pitto said:


> autobarn have them from $9.00 each, which is expensive


Score! I have found some cheap lights at The Reject Shop. They are the 'one thread' variety for $4 each:










Here is a pic of it "exploded" but I stupidly put the main body of the torch the wrong way round compared to it's components:










As others have reported with similar torches the front assembly pushes out without too much trouble -- place the torch front side down on a hard surface and push from the inside where the battery would usually be (a medium sized screwdriver handle worked well for me).

You can see from this shot that the led/lense assembly cannot push out the other way as there is a small lip that it sits on:










pushing from the outside will just crack the plastic cover/lens (I know, I did this).

I am planning on making a few lights for friends who just want a bright no-nonsense commuter light. I will also have one for myself as a backup light and for added brightness when required. So for this use I want to keep the torch intact and directly power a cree R2 from 3 AAA NiMH cells in the supplied battery holder.

The inside diameter of the top of the light is 24.5mm which drops down to 23.25mm past that small lip. You can see a size comparison with the cree optic in this shot:










and when I put the optic + led + star into the top it protrudes about 2-3 mm:










This means I will be intruding into the space occupied by the battery container. The top of the battery container sits pretty much flush with that lip in normal operation so the springs which form the contact with the battery are hardly compressed at all.

I have put the battery container in and when I push it down from the top as far as it can go it the bottom spring (near the screw end) compresses about 8-10mm.

So, I reckon I can fit in a couple of mm of aluminium heatsink (round, arctic silvered to the main body around the edge) and mount the cree star to it. I plan to glue a bit of fresh PCB to the back of the heatsink, to which I will solder the spring from the back of the original PCB and the lead to the +ve of the cree star. Then I will solder a lead from the negative of the cree star to the body of the torch. In case this makes it clearer:










Would it be best to solder more than one negative terminal to different spots on the outside case to ensure a good contact?


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## notaknob (Apr 6, 2004)

*I was thinking the same thing...*

I bought the DX 7 pack version of these and they came in yesterday. Several of them will end up as Dinottes but I was trying to figure out if I could make a strong torch out the remainder. Looks like you've done the design work for me.

I'll probably go with a wire from the negative contact to the switch. The case rattles around a little so there should be enough room.

But I think I'll use a single Li-Ion 18650 battery instead of AAAs.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Looks nice! Is the housing aluminum? How do you plan to solder to the torch body?


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

p97z said:


> Looks nice! Is the housing aluminum? How do you plan to solder to the torch body?


Yes the housing is aluminium. Showing my inexperience ... can I not solder to aluminium? If it looks like a problem I could so what notaknob proposed and solder a lead down to the switch .. this would involve digging into the plastic the switch is mounted in.

The other thought I had was soldering to the Aluminium heat sink disk. This will be artic silvered to the outside shell, but is Arctic Silver an electrical as well as a heat conductor?


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

To answer my own question Arctic silver is non-conductive.

Thinking about it, if my heatsink is flared so that it sits on that lip, but has a recessed hole that the LED star can sit in then I can arctic silver the smaller diameter bit and the the flared out bit that sits on the lip can just have metal-metal contact and provide the electrical conduction. Then I could attach a lead to the aluminium heatsink with a screw or something similar .. maybe.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Hey guys, Interested in building one of these for the helmet.

Anyone have any experience with these optics?










Link

People are saying it's a 10 degree beam. Looks like it's a good deal. 
I'm trying to pick up everything I need from one place to minimize the shipping cost (in this case free shipping from dx) and to avoid the headache of multiple vendors.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Popper252 said:


> Anyone have any experience with these optics?


Yeah, kai sell them too, got a 10 pack for 10US$ last year and have made three lights with them, nice tight beam, probably good for a helmet light.

Theres at least 2 builds in this thread using them, me 2 weeks back and glowinthedark 3 days ago.

Cutter sell the real thing, not sure if they are any different, though they do offer different angles.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Ok great news. Thanks!

I'll be buying a Q5 led and the driver from DX so I figured I might as well buy the lenses there also.


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

The lens I used was from Cutter. Because I am going to convert a number of cheap LED lights for friends this bulk deal looks very promising. If I purchase these lenses, Q5 Crees and cheap lights from DX I can do each light for $10 rather than $20. Quite alot cheaper.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Yeah the main reason why I like those lenses, other than the price, is because they offer a good size spot. I was never a fan of the super narrow spots. Too much like a flashlight reflector. Hopefully the reported 10 degree angle on the lens is somewhat accurate. 
Although I guess you should never really put too much faith into something some guy said on the internet  
For 5 bucks and some change though it's not too big of a gamble!


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## stu44 (Mar 28, 2007)

Which driver from DX are you going to use, 

I am looking at them also, and was thinking of driving a Cree R2 with a single 18650 battery, Or possibly a 7.2v pack,

Is there a specific driver from DX that would handle these methods? Looking at driving them at 1amp.

Thanks in advance


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

I was just going to use the drivers that everyone else was using.

These http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

They're 800mA. Although from what people are saying if you run them at 7.8 volts with one led the output increases to a bit above 1000mA.
From the discussion board beneath the item:


> # Cells Voltage Input Output
> ===============================
> 6 7.8 640mA 1020mA
> 5 6.2 660mA 945mA
> ...


At 1000 mA though you really need some powerful heat sinking. I don't think a dinotte style light would be able to deal with the heat unless you had one of those RC car motor heatsinks mentioned earlier in the thread.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I run mine at 1000ma and haven't had any problems so far. I even have one under the seat and it doesn't get much air. The one under the seat is usually in flash mode though and it does get warm.

I think Tamen000 runs them in temperatures over 80F and hasn't had any problems.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Oh wow, thats great! 

I'm glad to hear that these puppies take care of heat so well :thumbsup:

In that case disregard what I just said about over heating


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

notaknob said:


> I bought the DX 7 pack version of these and they came in yesterday. Several of them will end up as Dinottes but I was trying to figure out if I could make a strong torch out the remainder. Looks like you've done the design work for me


No worries! Could you do me a favour? Could you post some pics of the top of the light with the lens and original LEDs removed? Do they look the same as the one I posted a pic of? What are the internal dimensions?

I just want to know if those CREE optics would fit (they fit perfectly in 24.5mm and don't at all in 23.25m). I am thinking of getting the DX lights instead of sourcing them locally.

Thanks.

BTW, How long did it take for the DX order to arrive?


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## notaknob (Apr 6, 2004)

*Looks the same*



glowinthedark said:


> No worries! Could you do me a favour? Could you post some pics of the top of the light with the lens and original LEDs removed? Do they look the same as the one I posted a pic of? What are the internal dimensions?


Inner diameter LED side is 24.5mm. OD is a bit over 26mm. Threaded side is 23mm.










It's milled similar to yours.










The body isn't the same as yours though.










The body with switch is 29g once you've stripped out the battery case and original LEDs.

I ordered them on the 3 August, received in New Mexico on 14 August. On the DX site, they're sku.03206

But... I also ordered the drivers (sku.3256) on the 10th, and they've been marked as "processing" for about almost two weeks now.


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## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

I wish I only ran mine in temps of 80F!!!! This summer has been freaking hot in Phoenix, and when I ride at 7:00pm or so it is usually over 100F. I have not had any issues with these lights at all this summer. The do get pretty warm, however not too warm where you can not hold your hand on them for extended periods of time. As soon as I start riding, there is no issue at all, they stay cool...

This is with the DX cheapo drivers, 7.4 li pack and the leds running a little over 1000 ma for a little while, and then as the battery discharges a little they run just below 1000 ma... no issues with this housing design and heat with the setup you are talking about


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

notaknob said:


> Inner diameter LED side is 24.5mm. OD is a bit over 26mm. Threaded side is 23mm.
> 
> It's milled similar to yours.
> 
> ...


Thanks heaps for the info. They look functionally exactly the same as the one I have, but half the price. I think I'll try my luck with DX and see where that gets me.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Hey guys, Just a heads up.

Harbor freight has these lights on sale for 3.99!! Normally 9.99 for the two pack. 
I believe they also had the black one posted above on sale too!










I ended up buying two packs. I wanted matching colors 

Here's the shot of the light all gutted:



















And finally my evil plan to hook these two up!




























I'm using those sliding door knobs to seal the tail cap. Stole that idea from earlier in the thread. Using copper plugs to mount the led too. Those things are expensive btw. 4.50 a piece!!! 
Everything else is pretty self explanatory.

Still waiting on drivers, leds, and lenses to arrive. Can't wait!!


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

popper,
glad to see you got some, I think they are the same as the ones I posted earlier in the thread. My only concern is that if you are putting the optics in the x-tail cap then you can only just squeeze in a 20mm optic and the ones that you have on order are 23mm but that may inlude the holder that you won't require so you maybe OK but being glass you won't be able sand them down if required.
Lets hope they fit but if you have probs L2 do 20mm acrylic ones.

Can I ask what type of copper caps they are as they don't look like the usual plumbing type?

It's all looking good and I like the join bit in the middle.

Good luck.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Oh ok, thanks for the info on the lenses. I actually haven't ordered them yet. Still waiting on some money to show up before placing my order. 
Do you have a link to those L2 optics?
I really need to buy a caliper so I can measure this stuff myself. 
I took my little one foot ruler and measured the inside of the cap the best I could and it came to about 7/8 of an inch. So only 22mm.

As for the caps these are the ones here:

3/4 Copper Plug










I found them on the bottom shelf of the plumbing isle with all the other copper pipes and fittings.

Oh, and the little connector in the middle is hollow so I can route the cables btwn the two light bodies.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Didn't want to put a damper on things and your torch maybe a bit bigger as they all look the same but are probably not the same size. But just incase you can get L2 optics from ledsupply.com. I also got some really cheap ones from besthongkong.com not that I would recomend that site as I only orderd 2 optics just to see if they would arrive and they did!
I've added a pic so that you can check if yours is the same.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

While it looks similar, the textured part of your cap seems a little longer than mine. I also don't see any threads on the cap. How does it attach? Thanks for throwing that pic up there. It's appreciated. 

Hmm... I think I may just go for it and order the ones from DX. They're cheap (with the free shipping factored in) and I get 5 of them. Worst case scenario I just don't use the cap and glue the lens into place. 

I also believe that the DX ones are plastic rather than glass like stated in the description. At least that's what people in the dx thread are saying. If that's actually the case I could always try to shave them down a bit. 

Hmmm we'll see what happens! I love DIY btw  So much fun.


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## Hambonio (Jul 16, 2008)

Your copper plug looks like brass to me.

Where did you get your "door slide" caps? I got some but they are convex/concave where yours are flat.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Yes with DX you never quite know what it's like untill it arrives so it's like a little gamble but I have had loads of DX stuff and so far so good.
Sorry, I should have said that the cap in the pic is one that I sanded the threads off, can't remember why though.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Yeah they look like brass to me also. They're a bit too bright and shiny looking to be copper. 
The little plastic bag they were in said they were copper though. Same on the tag at the store. So who knows, maybe the Depot is lying to me? haha

Here's a pic of the sliding door plugs. I found those in the door knob and cabinet knob isle. They were in a small section kind of hard to find. I had to ask an employee for help locating them.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

yetibetty said:


> Yes with DX you never quite know what it's like untill it arrives so it's like a little gamble but I have had loads of DX stuff and so far so good.
> Sorry, I should have said that the cap in the pic is one that I sanded the threads off, can't remember why though.


Haha yeah, Dx is a pain with shipping times and the quality of some of their in house stuff can be a little meh sometimes. But for the most part they deliver what's expected.

Oh and I was looking at their lights and saw these.



Very knog frog style. I think the red one would make for a good cheap blinky tail light. I'm going to order them and see how they work.


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

The Cree optic is 19.4mm without the holder. Has anyone tried mounting these optics without the holder? That might work.

The internal diameter on the threaded end of my light is close to 21mm. I note with interest that the carclo optic (with holder) is 22mm wide (pdf). It also only 12.5mm high, a fair bit more compact than the Cree optic (15.9mm). For my plan to keep the 3xAAA in the light a more compact optic would be a better option. Pity they are so much more expensive.

The hole where the switch goes on my light is only 16mm diameter, so I would have to file off a fair bit to get the light out of a cree optic.

Popper ... the suggestion on this thread was that if you wanted to have an external power source it would be possible to shorten the body considerably and then glue an extra end (with switch) into the body where you cut it off. This (apparently) takes a little sanding/filing off of the thread to fit into the narrow main body.

You have two spare (blue) end caps. Why not use those to seal the other end of your lights? Dare I say it .. perhaps you might have decided to mount the optics where the original optics were? There is that nice lip that optic holder will sit on, you could trim the top to there and it would sit quite nicely.

If you wanted to do that you still could with the blue end switches you still have.

Just a couple of thoughts ...


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

And these Fraen reflectors are only 19mm wide ... (but are quite spotty).


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## UpRocks (Jun 24, 2004)

Nice progress guys. Thanks for taking this DIY to another level. 

I've still got enough AL tubing to last for several more lights, but these good looking, cheap housings are getting tempting


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

*My dinotte style*

Hi, for if someone it concern you, I have "recycled" the tube of the triple SSC flashlight to do a similar dinotte lights  how you see, it is very easy of done 

Tube










Separate tube in 3 pieces










Middle part tube with cree led and cree kaidomain 10º optic










Perfect fit of the optic










Copper end tube




























Fit into the flashlight tube










Up tube to fit the led




























Solder the constant current circuit to the led (it is a kaidomain regulated circuit 4-18 volts to 960 ma)










Another views



















Fit the constant current circuit into the tube



















I have dismantled the end tube of the flashlight to use that piece









































































Beamshot without optic










Beamshot with optic










On my helmet




























Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## RippleChip (Sep 30, 2007)

I ran my original dinotte diy lights this past weekend in a 24hr event and they worked amazing, now others want a setup. So nice to see a new project with a different housing, I may just look at doing a few sets of those up over the winter.

As for those frog style blinky lights, that is what I run and for the price they cannot be beat. I got them locally at MEC.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Very nice looking light there! Congrats on the build.

A few questions. 
Is there a switch that you wired in or does it just turn on when you plug the battery in?

How far away from the wall was the light when you took those shots. That optic seems very spotty.

And how are you holding the lens in to the body? Did you glue a piece of plexiglass on to the front or something?



> As for those frog style blinky lights, that is what I run and for the price they cannot be beat. I got them locally at MEC.


Cool glad to hear it! I have a set coming my way to test out!


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

Popper252 said:


> Very nice looking light there! Congrats on the build.
> 
> A few questions.
> Is there a switch that you wired in or does it just turn on when you plug the battery in?


Hi, Thanks. Not, I don't have put switch to the "dinotte" since don't had enough space on the light...I switch the light directly from the battery


Popper252 said:


> How far away from the wall was the light when you took those shots. That optic seems very spotty.


About 1 meter from the wall, the optic in theory is of 10º



Popper252 said:


> And how are you holding the lens in to the body? Did you glue a piece of plexiglass on to the front or something?


The lens don't need any glue, this go fit directly on the led, already I will put any detailed photo of the fit with the led...


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

This stuff is just way too cool not to try. So, I've ordered the Seoul LEDs, Circuit Boards, switches and end caps from DX. They shipped a couple days ago so now it's time to start planning a bit more. I'm going to work on finding the other bits & pieces over the next week and hopefully start building in a week or so. I'm going to build with the original housing of AL tubing, maybe I'll get lucky and I'll find it at one of the 4 or 5 HD's that are close by. 

I'm planning on building two, one with a spot and one with a flood optic in it then running them together for my commutes into work. Maybe start poaching some open space parks at night too. :thumbsup: Currently, I have the NiteRider ?Road Rat? I think. Whatever it is it's not bright at all. It's connected to a 4 C-cell battery pack that I have NiMH batteries in. So, I want to use that battery pack to run the two lights I'm building. From what I understand the voltage will be fine and running C cells just gives me better mAh. (please correct any of this that I get wrong) The niterider has good connectors on it so I was thinking of just using that wiring. The threaded barrel connector between lights (from Popper's post) looked kinda cool so I was thinking about trying that as well to route wiring between the two lights.

So....now that I've written a book for a post....

1. Am I going to be good on the power?
2. I was planning on wiring in parallel so I could turn one light or both on, is that okay?
3. Should I use the Niterider wiring or should I go with the connectors from digikey
4. What am I forgetting? 

I'm pretty stoked to build these. If it works out my friend has the exact same junk light from niterider and we are going to convert him over to the DIY Dinottes too. 

Thanks for the help!!


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Congrats on taking up the project!

1. What circuit boards did you order? Those will effect how much power you can pump into the leds. You may have a problem when turning one off and leaving the other lit depending on how everything is wired up and how many volts your pack is.

2. Not sure... i guess that also ties in with 1.

3. Hey if you can salvage parts why not? Save a few bucks and no surprises from shopping online. You already have the stuff 

4. Hmm... be sure to get some thermal adhesive for sticking the copper into the aluminum. I'm kinda curious if JB weld would do the trick? 
For attaching the led to the heat sink I like to use thermal grease just in case I wanted to upgrade my leds later on. You can get the grease at a circuit city or staples.

You may want to look into getting a Li-ion battery too. It's going to be nice and light weight. A 7.4v can be had from batteryspace.com for 20 bucks. You'll get about 4 hours of run time with both lights on with a 4000mah battery. 
To calculate your own run times use this 
Here's a link to some 7.4v batteries.

Have fun and good luck with the build! Be sure to post up some pics when you get your stuff!


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Morryig, Don't know what battery you have but you need a 9v or more. I have however used 7.4v Li-Ion camcorder batteries to run a pair of SSC P4's for a couple of hours at a time on full power.

You should wire in series and not parallel and just dim both LED's when you want to save power. If you wire in parallel The LED's will only work at half power each when they are both on.

I would just use the wiring you have if it only going to waste.

You haven't said what drivers you are getting, will you use one per LED or both LED's off one driver. If you are going to use one driver per LED the you can switch one light on at a time but I still think it's best to dim both so that you still have the same beam pattern through out the ride.


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

Poppper, I had another idea about getting those Cree optics to fit into the 20ish mm end cap. You could just cut the top off the optic holder, so use it to position the optic over the LED, but use pressure against the end of the cap to keep the lens in the holder and therefore in correct alignment.

Mad? Maybe. But it just might work.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

That's actually a really great idea. Thanks for that! 

I can't wait to get my stuff in. I ordered everything but the Q5's are on back order until Friday. So who knows when everything will actually ship out. 

Another thing with the optics. Has anyone tried spray painting silver or lining the optic holder with some aluminum to help reflect more light out? You think it'd make much of a difference?


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Popper252 said:


> That's actually a really great idea. Thanks for that!
> 
> I can't wait to get my stuff in. I ordered everything but the Q5's are on back order until Friday. So who knows when everything will actually ship out.
> 
> Another thing with the optics. Has anyone tried spray painting silver or lining the optic holder with some aluminum to help reflect more light out? You think it'd make much of a difference?


I tried the silver thing ages ago as there is a lot of light going into the holder through the side of the optic and I can tell you it makes no difference, but I still always use white optic holders if I have a choice it just feels like it should reflect more.

I think glowinthedarks idea should do the job.


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

About the chop topping idea .. here is the schematic for the Cree optics










Note that the lip near the top is 19.8mm wide, so where this sits in the holder is approximately where you'd need to trim to. Cutting the whole top off might not be the best first option, just an extreme sanding job might do the trick.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Popper, you should be fine and thanks glowinthedark for that.
Ive done some pics, the optics in the pics are the same size and fit perfect and I don't think you really need to use the holder as the tail cap will act as a holder and it's not to hard to centre an optic over an LED.


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

I reckon you're right Yeti. Looks a very nice fit. Thanks for posting the pics.

I'd be tempted to enlarge the hole so that the protruding bit of the optic sat nicely inside, this would help to keep it in place. Unfortunately this would be at the expense of putting a mylar or similar face on it to prevent it getting too scratched up (maybe this isn't necessary anyway?).

Or is your hole spot on for size?


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

Here's the driver and LED I'm getting. It's been mentioned so many times in this thread I didn't put it in again....Ooooops. 
3.6V-9V Circuit Board 

Seoul w/ Star

The reason I was going with the battery pack that I have is P97z posted way back at the beginning of the thread that he was running his with 3 AA batteries. So I figured I could run with the 4 C pack. I only need about an hour of burn time max for now so I'm hoping to get by on the cheap side and not have to buy a new battery and charger. I included a pic of the batter pack. I'll upgrade it later though.

I was planning on using Arctic Alumina to mount the star and the copper end cap in the AL tube. Should I do that or thermal grease? Either is a possibility, I work near a geek shop that has a bunch of computer modding supplies. 

I am going to do one driver per LED so the only thing they are sharing is a power source. I was thinking that wiring in series wouldn't allow me to have a power switch on each light. But I'm pretty much an electricity nOoB so most likely I'm just not getting it.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

At this rate I won't have my stuff for another month.... First the leds were on back order and by the time those came in the drivers went on back order! Kinda comical. Haha oh well.

Morryjg. Bad news my friend. I don't believe you'll be able to run both leds off of that battery pack. 
Looking at the specs for the seoul P4 led each one needs 3.7v. So to run two of them you'll need atleast 7.4 volts of juice coming from the batteries.

Those rechargeable C cells carry 1.2 volts each. So only 4.8volts there.

Some one please correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure with that pack you'll only have enough to power 1 led.

Actually speaking of batteries, will a 7.4v pack be enough to power two leds? Or would I be better off with an 11.1 volt pack? I've always heard you should have a little overhead voltage wise when you're running these leds.

As for the mounting I'd def use the adhesive on the copper. That's going to be the only thing holding the copper in place to prevent it from sliding backwards into the tube. 
But for holding the led that's up to you. The grease will do enough to hold it in place especially with the lens pressing down on it. It's really just a matter of if you want to upgrade later or not. Both will work


----------



## notaknob (Apr 6, 2004)

*Someone does it...*



Popper252 said:


> At this rate I won't have my stuff for another month.... First the leds were on back order and by the time those came in the drivers went on back order! Kinda comical. Haha oh well.


You're behind me bubba. I've had mine on order longer than that. Hopefully they'll be here by October...



Popper252 said:


> Morryjg. Bad news my friend. I don't believe you'll be able to run both leds off of that battery pack.
> Looking at the specs for the seoul P4 led each one needs 3.7v. So to run two of them you'll need atleast 7.4 volts of juice coming from the batteries.
> Those rechargeable C cells carry 1.2 volts each. So only 4.8volts there.
> 
> ...


Someone on MTBR does it. See the battery pack in this image.


Popper252 said:


> Or would I be better off with an 11.1 volt pack? I've always heard you should have a little overhead voltage wise when you're running these leds.


RTFM of your image above...
3.6v~9v driver board with a 11.1v pack = "poof". You'd need a different driver then the DX cheapos.


----------



## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

notaknob said:


> RTFM of your image above...
> 3.6v~9v driver board with a 11.1v pack = "poof". You'd need a different driver then the DX cheapos.


I'll be running two drivers, one per led, each one splitting power from the battery so I figured they'd each get 11.1 / 2 so 5.5ish volts each.

Does that sound right?

But If a 7.4volt pack will work just fine then I'd rather go with that since it's cheaper.


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

Popper252 said:


> At this rate I won't have my stuff for another month.... First the leds were on back order and by the time those came in the drivers went on back order! Kinda comical. Haha oh well.


Dang....I didn't even think to look to see if they shipped my whole order. :madman: They only shipped the little endcaps to go over the switch. What a let down. I'm waiting on the same drivers you are and have the same availability date.



Popper252 said:


> Morryjg. Bad news my friend. I don't believe you'll be able to run both leds off of that battery pack.
> Looking at the specs for the seoul P4 led each one needs 3.7v. So to run two of them you'll need atleast 7.4 volts of juice coming from the batteries.
> 
> Those rechargeable C cells carry 1.2 volts each. So only 4.8volts there.
> ...


No worries then. I'll build one light and run the flood optic on it. That'll be more than enough for commuting in the morning I'm guessing. Once I upgrade battery packs I'll look at running multiple lights. Or maybe I'll build another with spot and do a helmet mount.


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

*Popper252*, about the question of the holder of the optic of my light, here a few photos




























How you see, with this optics don't need any glue to holder the optic on the led 

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

msxtr said:


> *Popper252*, about the question of the holder of the optic of my light, here a few photos
> 
> How you see, with this optics don't need any glue to holder the optic on the led
> 
> ...


Wonderful! Thanks for the pics! It's cool how they sit perfectly over the entire led unit and not just the lens of the led. :thumbsup:


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

*2 leds off of one 7.2v pack?*

I am still pondering Scar's amoeba light. 2 leds off of one 7.2v pack. The http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.03256 
driver seems like it should work for such an application. However wouldn't that driver drop out of regulation when the vf of the leds becomes less than the voltage of the battery pack. To maintain regulation over the whole 6.4 -8.4v range of the battery there are only two optimal configurations that would work and a single buck converter dosnt appear to be one of them. Two buck converters each handling one led wired in parallel off the battery should work and stay in regulation the whole time. A single buck/boost converter would also work and would probably be more efficient although I don't know of any commercially available that can handle more than 5.2v in or out.

On a related side note when I tried wiring a headlight and tail light in parallel will 2AA cells with 2 dx multi mode drivers (so the tail light blinks) the results were disastrous. The head light blinked a when ever the tail light was on and in blink mode and if both drivers were on they both flicked and blinked enough to be really annoying. I even tried wiring them to 2 2AA packs in parallel thinking that they would supply enough current and got the same result. I probably could have employed an input filter cap but just went with 2 separate battery packs.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

glowinthedark said:


> I reckon you're right Yeti. Looks a very nice fit. Thanks for posting the pics.
> 
> I'd be tempted to enlarge the hole so that the protruding bit of the optic sat nicely inside, this would help to keep it in place. Unfortunately this would be at the expense of putting a mylar or similar face on it to prevent it getting too scratched up (maybe this isn't necessary anyway?).
> 
> Or is your hole spot on for size?


The hole size is fine, all that is required is an Oring on top of the optic before it goes in the tailcap and then it's warerproof and the squidge of the Oring will keep enough presure to hold it all in place.

I never bother with mylar front as they only reduce light output, the optics don't scratch easy and they are very cheap.


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

Okay......I'm tired of waiting for DX to get the stuff in and ship it. I think I want to find different drivers/LEDs that are readily available. So, I don't really know how to shop for them and get good driver/LED combinations. I guess what I'm looking for is a driver that will run on 4.8 volts and a flood optic that will fit in the 1" AL tube. Any pointers on how to pair those up or what might work well would be most helpful!


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Good news for those of us waiting on those drivers from DX. My order just shipped today! Should be here in less than two weeks I hope! 

Can't wait to get this build going!


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

Popper252 said:


> Good news for those of us waiting on those drivers from DX. My order just shipped today! Should be here in less than two weeks I hope!
> 
> Can't wait to get this build going!


Same here. I finally give up and spend a few hours researching driver/LED combos and they ship. :madman: But....I did find 1" AL tubing at Ace Hardware today!! :thumbsup: If there is anyone in Littleton/Denver that needs some tubing I have some extra if you can't find any. I bought the last section at the Ace on Pierce & Coal Mine.


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

DAMNIT! So it didn't all ship but they didn't tell me that until today. So....now I'm going to be missing drivers. Guess I'll go start looking for a driver that I can get from somewhere else and use the drivers I get from DX for something else.

Anyone have suggestions for a driver to use for this instead?


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Ugh... same here, I'm going to have leds and lenses but no drivers now. 
First they were delayed till the 13th and now it says they won't be available till the 17th. 
This is getting rather frustrating. 

I'm going to second the suggestion for an alternate driver. I'll start looking around at other sites to see what I can find. I'll post if I have any luck.


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## cytoe (Jan 20, 2004)

*there are drivers here*

not cheap, but good service and fast shipping:

http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php?cPath=48_49_61

also here: http://ledsupply.com/buckpuck.php


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

Never tried them, but there boards look a lot better/ a little more expensive than DX

http://www.besthongkong.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=driver


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## nepbug (Sep 3, 2004)

Morryjg said:


> DAMNIT! So it didn't all ship but they didn't tell me that until today. So....now I'm going to be missing drivers. Guess I'll go start looking for a driver that I can get from somewhere else and use the drivers I get from DX for something else.
> 
> Anyone have suggestions for a driver to use for this instead?


Morryjg, I'm in the Littleton/Morrison area and currently have some of those drivers. I'll trade you one for a bit of tubing...

PM me if you're interested.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Alright so I got a package today minus the current regulators of course, but this still gives me the chance to test things out and make thing fit.

Heres one:









They were a bit of a pain in the butt to get them out of the holder but I found a Qtip in the hole where the led dome goes and a little force pops them out with out damaging the lens.

I like how they have a little lip:









And I liked even more how the lens was a perfect fit in the hole of the flashlight! :thumbsup: 









Now since I didn't want to completely not use the holders I sanded down the lip so that it would fit inside the flashlights end. 









This way It aligns perfectly on the led when I finally mount everything together! 









I'm pretty happy with the lenses. I'll be working on this light over the next couple days and I'll be sure to update on the progress.

Next task is to sand down the copper plugs to fit into the housing. Should be nice and tedious. Just how I like it


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## StuWW (Sep 3, 2007)

I've read this thread all the way through and I'm exhausted!

I've looked at so many articles on home brewed bike lights and feel the Dinotte style, DX torch based or Alu tubing is definitely the way to go.

Apart from a pond light conversion, this will be my first bike light build and I can't wait to get going on it.

I'm still a bit baffled about what optics and led's I need, could anyone do a shopping list with links of what parts I need based upon your own successful builds. I'd ideally like a multi mode driver so I get strobe and various power levels.

Links to EU \ UK or DX parts would be grateful.

Also is there a Dummies guide to soldering everything together anywhere on the net, I'm worried I'll get my + and - the wrong way round and blow everything up :madman: 

I was hoping to run the light of of 8 AA nimh batteries, is that OK?

Hope you guys can help.

Cheers

Stu
Devon - UK


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Hey Stu,

Right now your best bet is still either cree Q5 or R2, or the Seoul P4.

There are some new leds coming out called the Seoul P7 and the cree mce but for this type of project they're still a bit complicated to implement.

Here's a link to the Cree Q5 and the seoul P4

From what I understand the Q5 is brighter than the P4 and the brightest of the 3 is the Cree R2.

These are the lenses pictured above.
They fit the cree leds. Either one.

Here are some multimode drivers:
5 Mode
Another 5 Mode with a max input of 4.5v
Single mode on off driver:
800 mah (These have been on backorder forever.... I've been waiting for a while)
There are also a couple options up above in other posts.

For one Led 8 AA batteries will be over kill for one LED. That'd give you about 9.6 volts when all you need to power one Led is 3.7. In that case 4 would be ideal giving you 4.8 volts. But it also depends on the driver you're using so be careful. You can also use other battery types such as rechargeable cr123 cells or 18650's.

Hmmm as for soldering I'll leave that till you get all your stuff 

Good luck!


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

There is a new seoul led out... I think i found my next light!

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=178588

280 lumens at 1 amp!


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Alright so here's what I have so far:



















A little swivel action:









I have tons of room still on the inside. I think I may trim about an inch off the back. 









Exploded Views:


















So far so good. Still need to drill some holes into the copper plugs to run wires to the leds. Drill out the back plates. Do some finishing work etc. 
Can't wait for my drivers to get here!


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

nepbug said:


> Morryjg, I'm in the Littleton/Morrison area and currently have some of those drivers. I'll trade you one for a bit of tubing...
> 
> PM me if you're interested.


PM Sent! :thumbsup:

WOOHOO! Time to do some building! I haven't ordered optics yet since everything was on backorder from DX. But I got a package in the mail today! Just ordered optics and so they'll be here middle of next week. I have one of the copper plugs filed down and ready to go in the tube. It's a really tight fit so I think I'm just going to use some thermal grease between the plug and the AL tube so I can take it apart later if needed.


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## StuWW (Sep 3, 2007)

Thanks Popper

Appreciate you consolidating all that info in one post for me.

I'll get an order in later today and I'll no doubt be back on the forum soon pestering you all about the build!

Many thanks

Stu


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

Popper252 said:


> Alright so here's what I have so far:


Awesome job Popper! Once you have finished I think you have the makings for a beautifully resolved build, with cheap easily available materials. This could become a classic, all you have to think of now is what to call it! 



Popper252 said:


> A little swivel action:


How do you accomplish this swivel action? I see from the following pic you have a nut on the inside, do you think it will stay tight after some bumpy riding?



Popper252 said:


> I have tons of room still on the inside. I think I may trim about an inch off the back.


I see you've mounted the lens/emitter in what was the back of the donor flashlight and you are sealing the "back" of your light with the slider door handles. Did you consider using those two extra lights and using the switch from those lights to seal the end the way YettiBetty described? That way you have a nice mostly waterproof built-in switch. If you did it this way you would end up epoxying the switch into the end of the light, but you could still gain access to that end of the light if you don't epoxy your copper plug in. If there is good contact between the side of the light and the plug some thermal grease would do the trick. THEN you could use a spacer of some description (maybe poly pipe or copper pipe) so that screwing the locking ring on to the optic pushes everything in nice and tight.



Popper252 said:


> So far so good. Still need to drill some holes into the copper plugs to run wires to the leds. Drill out the back plates. Do some finishing work etc.
> Can't wait for my drivers to get here!


I am looking forward to the final build and beam shots!


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Just come from the pound shop again. Bought a crap head tourch for a pound, threw the light part straight in the bin but kept the other bit and it makes a great helmet mount for the yet to be converted torch (also a pound)


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

Popper252 said:


> So far so good. Still need to drill some holes into the copper plugs to run wires to the leds. Drill out the back plates. Do some finishing work etc.
> Can't wait for my drivers to get here!


sooooooo........ How is this little baby going to be driven?

I am assuming you are using the dealextreme drivers. Since they only have a fairly narrow V in range 3.6-9 v, and the vf for 2 x q5's is somewhere between 3.4 and 3.6 x2 and you need one volt overhead... what battery are you planning on using without blowing a driver?

or are you going to drive them off a 7.2v batt using a driver on each light in parallel?

Or can you put 2 x drivers in series off a 7.2v battery?

Man... my head is hurting


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

glowinthedark said:


> Awesome job Popper! Once you have finished I think you have the makings for a beautifully resolved build, with cheap easily available materials. This could become a classic, all you have to think of now is what to call it!
> 
> How do you accomplish this swivel action? I see from the following pic you have a nut on the inside, do you think it will stay tight after some bumpy riding?
> 
> ...


Thanks for ideas! That's an interesting one about using spacers to adjust fit inside with the led. I'll keep that in mind if I need to utilize it.

I also like the idea about using the switches from the other two units! Again, I'll keep that in mind! Like you said, It'd be fairly waterproof. I was looking for a boot for the switch I have now although I'm not having much luck locally right at the moment.

I plan to epoxy the copper plug into place so once that sets up there won't be any access to the driver from the front of the light. I'll still be able to change out the led or lens though. As it is now the copper plug pushes right up against the hollow screw thing that's holding the two heads together. I'd leave it like that but there isn't much contact btwn that plug and the light body so that isn't much of an option.

As for the swiveling I'm not sure how Ideal that'll be in the long run. Like you said chances are it'll loosen up. The way it's set up now is I just drilled the hole and started turning the screw until it bit. Then It just guided its way into the light body. I might reconsider the design on that as time goes by.



> sooooooo........ How is this little baby going to be driven?
> 
> I am assuming you are using the dealextreme drivers. Since they only have a fairly narrow V in range 3.6-9 v, and the vf for 2 x q5's is somewhere between 3.4 and 3.6 x2 and you need one volt overhead... what battery are you planning on using without blowing a driver?
> 
> ...


Yes sir that's the plan. Going to use two drivers, one on each led. Hopefully that'll be enough juice to run them effectively. From what I understand the amoeba light uses a 7.2 volt with two leds and that works out fine. Not sure about the driver he's running though. If that fails I can always scrap the DX drivers and buy boost driver. 
Another option would be to run an 11.1 volt giving about 5 volts of power to each led. 
UGh... my head hurts too now... haha :thumbsup:


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

Hopefully your head has stopped hurting cause this isnt going to help...

You could use a single buck regulator and parallel two leds from it with a 7.2V battery. 
This can be configured for a max output of 1600ma thats 800 per led.
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_49_61&products_id=1003

This can also be configured for 1.5A but its more involved since you have to change the inductor and a resistor. http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut793


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## Pitto (Sep 26, 2005)

if you make the brass thread wider, you could make an Ayup style mount.
i will post a pic of what i have done with some parts from the local hardware store and an o ring later on in the day.

my lights have 2 leds driven off one regulator, but i am using 9.6v [makita 3ah battery with a 1 hour charge time]


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Creative helmet mount! I like it!


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

Popper252 said:


> Thanks for ideas! That's an interesting one about using spacers to adjust fit inside with the led. I'll keep that in mind if I need to utilize it.
> 
> I also like the idea about using the switches from the other two units! Again, I'll keep that in mind! Like you said, It'd be fairly waterproof. I was looking for a boot for the switch I have now although I'm not having much luck locally right at the moment.
> 
> I plan to epoxy the copper plug into place so once that sets up there won't be any access to the driver from the front of the light. I'll still be able to change out the led or lens though. As it is now the copper plug pushes right up against the hollow screw thing that's holding the two heads together. I'd leave it like that but there isn't much contact btwn that plug and the light body so that isn't much of an option.


I was thinking of another option for fixing the switch from the other lights in the back. Instead of epoxying them, could you carefully file down the thread just enough that you could fit an o-ring (or 2!) on the old thread? Then you might be able to just press that switch housing into the back and it would stay there. If you had to (particularly if you'd used 2 o-rings) you could drill a hole for a small screw to keep it in place. Whaddya reckon?

If it worked then you could epoxy your plug in place and still be able to get in the back of the unit. If you didn't want to have blue ends to your lovely red lights perhaps you could buy another two packs of lights and give/sell the rest to someone on here to make up their own blue lights?



Popper252 said:


> As for the swiveling I'm not sure how Ideal that'll be in the long run. Like you said chances are it'll loosen up. The way it's set up now is I just drilled the hole and started turning the screw until it bit. Then It just guided its way into the light body. I might reconsider the design on that as time goes by.


As someone else suggested, you could make an Ay-Up style mount and route the power cables through the swivel. If you can access the back of the light you can always tighten the nut I guess. May I suggest you sheath the outside of the threaded connecter with plastic tubing, this would stop the light from swivelling too far and maybe give it some resistance to shaking loose? Perhaps the body from a ball point pen? Or some soft pvc tube? If you didn't want to do that, a nut on the threaded tube on the outside of the light housing could be used to keep the light in position ....

Great build. Well done. Thought of a name yet? I don't think you could name it after a single person as it was an incremental design process (props to p97z for starting the thread, txn for actually building a bikelight from one of these donor lights, tamen00, and big props to yetibetty for thinking of reversing the light and using the switch end as a nice threaded cap for the optic). But you built it, so you get to name it I reckon.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

p97z said:


> Creative helmet mount! I like it!


Thanks I was feeling a bit cheap. the plastic is a bit brittle though.


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## perryscope (Sep 21, 2008)

*Cooper end caps.*

Hi all,

Having been inspired by this fantastic thread and have purchased most of the components needed to build 6 lights using the torches above. (Not all for me  With any look i should get the components within a few weeks. 
One thing I am finding difficult to source in the UK is the copper/brass end caps.

I have found these.

15MM COPPER STOP/CAP









2 for £1.50

Does anyone in the UK have any better suggestions?

I'm going with the Cree R2 LEDs and running them up to 1000mA so I'm looking for the best heat sink option I can.


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

You can make a good housing from mail ordered aluminum tubing/bar stock as well. 
Check out - http://www.onlinemetals.com/
I ordered a piece of 25.4mm OD 1.65mm wall 22.1mm Inside diameter 6061 pipe from them. I also ordered a piece of 6061 aluminum round bar stock with a diameter of 22.22mm. I was able to sand down the solid rod till it was a good tight fit inside the pipe in less than a half hour using only my hand and a few pieces of Emory cloth. I would think a very tight fitting piece of solid aluminum between 1/4 to 1/2" long would be sufficient. Tamen00 was the source of the solid aluminum idea. If it works in 100deg phoenix weather heat should not be a problem.

I am planning something slightly more elaborate than the tube/heat sink design but based on it. I will post a thread on it when the rest of my parts arrive and I am a little further along. I am going to make a housing the above materials as well as some 25.4mm bar stock to form a grooved heat sink in the middle of my hosing by bolting together discs of aluminum of different diameters. I will need the extra cooling as the Led I am using will be a whopping 6 watts on high and 4.5 on low.


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## faerge (Aug 21, 2008)

perryscope said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have found these.
> 
> 15MM COPPER STOP/CAP


In Denmark you can get these in 22mm aswell (the 22mm is the inside diameter). And as the walls are around 1,5mm each you get a perfect fit in the alu tube.
I am pretty sure that you should be able to these aswell in the UK.

After I found these, all I need is for the leds to arrive from dealextreme to finish my project


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## SkUG (Feb 19, 2008)

Did you find any? £2.00 for two 22mm on ebay 
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....m=190253698344&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=009


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

faerge said:


> In Denmark you can get these in 22mm aswell (the 22mm is the inside diameter). And as the walls are around 1,5mm each you get a perfect fit in the alu tube.
> I am pretty sure that you should be able to these aswell in the UK.
> 
> After I found these, all I need is for the leds to arrive from dealextreme to finish my project


Yes I have tons of them, just pop into any plumbing shop in the UK.


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

*Finally!*

I finally got my first light built! WOOHOOO!!!  

The build is the AL tubing housing with the copper plug for a heatsink. The LED is the Seoul P4 from DX with the 3.6-9v driver from DX. (A huge thanks to Nepbug for having an extra driver laying around to swap!) I used the little clicky switch with a rubber top put on it all siliconed into the closet door handle. I put it together a bit different in that I wanted to be able to take everything apart. So I got some of O ring clips to put at the top of the optic and the bottom of the copper plug. It seems to work very well. I have not put silicone around the top of the optic to seal it in, but I don't plan on riding in the rain with it yet. That will give me a chance to refine anything that needs it. I have the 15 degree optic in it right now but have the 5 degree spot that I may play with to see how it works.

Now to save up a bit for a new battery so that I can run two of these in series. :thumbsup: I also wouldn't mind looking into the new Cree MCE (I think that's right) since it's supposed to be so bright. But I want a wide optic and all they seem to do is spot.


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

The cir-clip idea is a great addition to the design. I will be incorporating that if and when my parts turn up from DX.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Morrijg, another good idea added to the light forum with the cir-clips.
Nice when it all comes together isn't it.


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

Yeah - I was psyched to find the right sized clips. (Ace Hardware in case anyone is wondering) I figured they would be more difficult to find. The pliers to compress the clips are a $5 special from Harbor Freight that I got for working on forks. It would suck to put those in without them because I moved the inside one around quite a bit to get the plug in the right place.

My wife was laughing at me a bit for standing out in the street talking about how bright such a wee little light is. But I'm used to being the geek of the family.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Geekiness is a good thing as long as you turn it off when on the bike.


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## perryscope (Sep 21, 2008)

SkUG said:


> Did you find any? £2.00 for two 22mm on ebay
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....m=190253698344&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=009


Yes thanks 

I thought those would be to large at 22mm inside diameter?, I haven't yet received my torches to check but your right the 22mm ones are easy to get.

Of topic...

I have been looking for a driver that can accept a wider range of input voltages (3.6V~9V ) but also has multiple modes. (mainly for different brightness options).

Would it be possible to run two drivers in series to get the best of both worlds.

For example.

This single mode driver http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256 powering this multimode driver http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6190 powering the LED.

I guess you would be restricted to the maximum current of the first driver (800mA?) but would it allow you to use say a 7.2 or 7.4 battery? and get multimode's?

Or is there a better 800mA multimode driver that accepts the higher input voltages?

I'm sure it's a mad idea but thought I would ask.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

> Or is there a better 800mA multimode driver that accepts the higher input voltages?


A buck puck from led supply or a bFlex from taskled but they're not cheap.


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## perryscope (Sep 21, 2008)

yetibetty said:


> A buck puck from led supply or a bFlex from task led but they're not cheap.


I Like the idea of 
the bflex. http://www.taskled.com/bflex.html
or the nflex http://www.taskled.com/nflex.html 

would it be possible to install one in the battery box away from the lights and then connect both led lights to it in series? This way you could use just one driver for both Lights without having to chain the lights together.

Wonder if the driver will be happy with the LEDs being say 15 inches away (volt drop in the cable?)


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## Surestick Malone (Jan 24, 2004)

perryscope said:


> I Like the idea of
> the bflex. http://www.taskled.com/bflex.html
> or the nflex http://www.taskled.com/nflex.html
> 
> ...


Most of the drivers come with instructions not to power the driver without LEDs attached (generally because they have a capacitor that can build up enough charge to fry a LED once they are connected). If the driver is in the light that shouldn't be an issue unless you have the light open to work on it or something and connected to batteries. If the driver is with the batteries it would be easy to hit the power switch by mistake when the light is disconnected and fry the LEDs once it is connected.


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## perryscope (Sep 21, 2008)

Surestick Malone said:


> Most of the drivers come with instructions not to power the driver without LEDs attached (generally because they have a capacitor that can build up enough charge to fry a LED once they are connected). If the driver is in the light that shouldn't be an issue unless you have the light open to work on it or something and connected to batteries. If the driver is with the batteries it would be easy to hit the power switch by mistake when the light is disconnected and fry the LEDs once it is connected.


Thats a good point thanks.

I think your right its safer to put it in one of the lights and hard wire them together or join them with a brass conector like popper252's red pair. the more I read about the Bflex the more i like it.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

The bFlex will, or at least it can measure and control the temperature of the light but it has to be inside of the light in order to do this.


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## perryscope (Sep 21, 2008)

Does anyone have the dimensions of the Version 2 bflex?


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## Mantawa (Oct 8, 2007)

How do these Dinotte style home built lights compare to this flashlight?

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12761


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## notaknob (Apr 6, 2004)

*S T F W?*



perryscope said:


> Does anyone have the dimensions of the Version 2 bflex?


Jesus, you hotlinked the image and couldn't find the size?

Try the last bullet in the first set of items from where you got that image.


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## perryscope (Sep 21, 2008)

Oops. 
Yes sorry dont know how i missed that.
Servers me right for browsing so late.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

perryscope said:


> Thats a good point thanks.
> 
> I think your right its safer to put it in one of the lights and hard wire them together or join them with a brass conector like popper252's red pair. the more I read about the Bflex the more i like it.


Bflex is idiot proof.
_"Protected against reverse polarity connection (low loss FET), output open circuit and output short circuit."_
I build all of mine with remote drivers/switches because I like the control button in a different spot to the lighthead. Also means a lighter mount because you're not thumping the button on the light. I usually hardwire the LEDs to the driver though because a dodgy connection may damage the LEDs.


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## nepbug (Sep 3, 2004)

Morryjg said:


> I finally got my first light built! WOOHOOO!!!
> .


Nice Morryjg. glad it turned out so well.

I was pondering the circlip thing myself, did you groove the inside of the tube?

I was thinking a circlip at the front with an o-ring to seal the lens, but still make it easy to swap out.


----------



## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Morryjg -- I like the clip idea! I'll have to make a trip to Ace hardware... You could also silicone the front of the clip to keep it water tight. You could then peal the silicone off when you want to upgrade.


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## sxr-racer (Nov 17, 2005)

ok, been looking at all these. Every list I see is someone asking if "will this work".... I have seen tons of LED's, Drivers, etc etc....

How about a current parts list. Half the links do not work it seems....

Interested in making one of these, well, a few actually but lost as a goose.


----------



## notaknob (Apr 6, 2004)

*S T F W - uh this is a big thread so...*



sxr-racer said:


> ok, been looking at all these. Every list I see is someone asking if "will this work".... I have seen tons of LED's, Drivers, etc etc....
> 
> How about a current parts list. Half the links do not work it seems....
> 
> Interested in making one of these, well, a few actually but lost as a goose.


Here's the Cheapo List 

Cree R2 LEDs - DealExtreme (currently back-ordered) 
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15943 
or if you can't wait (with Dealextreme - that's a laugh)
Cree Q5 LED - DealExtreme
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394

Lenses - DealExtreme
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1920

Flashlight bodies with switch - DealExteme
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3206 Buy two of these if you want to make something like this.

Drivers - DealExteme
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

Connectors - Deans-like - DealExtreme
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10788

Thermal Glue - DealExtreme
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4579

Solder wire - DealExteme
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4643

Solder Flux - DealExtreme
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6502

Battery Holders, 4AA - RadioShack
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062253
Get some wire while you're at RS.
Or
7.4v Li-ion and Charger 
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1209
Or from All-Battery's eBay Store http://stores.ebay.com/All-Battery-...W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ11120517QQftidZ2QQtZkm (get charger here too)

3' - 1" Aluminum bar for making heatsinks
Lowes/HomeDepot - $5

Large rubber O-Ring
True Value or Ace Hardware. Alternatively make something like this from an inner-tube.

Substitute 1" aluminum tubing for the flashlight bodies. YMMV, especially if you want to use Seouls


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## emtnate (Feb 9, 2008)

The aluminum tubing I picked up at the hardware store has an internal diameter of 22mm. The lenses linked to dx will not fit.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

emtnate -- I had to file the edges of the optic holder to get mine to fit. The inside diameter of the tube I used was 22.5. The L2 optics from ledsupply.com should fit. However if you use L2 optics you need to use seoul led's.


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## Hambonio (Jul 16, 2008)

Use these lenses with the Seoul from DX 
http://www.ledsupply.com/20mm.php

Here's the Seoul LED
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445

I've made a couple with these, and the cheapo 4-pack drivers from DX, and they are unbeatable from a time/money standpoint.

Now another question. How many have used the thermal glue from DX? Do you like? I used Arctic Alumina.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Perfect timing Hambonio... We posted at the same time! 

You could also try these 280 Seoul lumen from here. 
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=178588
Photon Fanatic is his name... he also sells optics and arctic alumina.


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## bbgobie (Apr 20, 2006)

So inserting the head with the emitter + optic + driver there is not enough room to use the built in 3xAAA battery holder?
That would be the perfect use for me!


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

nepbug said:


> Nice Morryjg. glad it turned out so well.
> 
> I was pondering the circlip thing myself, did you groove the inside of the tube?
> 
> I was thinking a circlip at the front with an o-ring to seal the lens, but still make it easy to swap out.


Sorry haven't replied - I've been out of town.

No I didn't put a groove inside. The clips don't move easily inside. I couldn't move them easily inside the tubing without the pliers.

Once I'm satisfied that the light is as it is going to stay for a while I'll probably put a bead of silicone on the outside sealing in the circlip and the optic to keep it water tight.

One other thing I've figured out is that when you put the groove in the tubing make sure you test it on your bars as you do it. Mine isn't pointing exactly where I want it yet. Having a second light would make it better, but I need a new battery and charger to do that.


----------



## crank feen (Sep 25, 2008)

So P97z, do you have any for sell? 

I'll eventually (try) build one but want to make sure I buy the right stuff first,

What is the best combination of parts I can get for the brightest (handlebar mounted) light?

I like tinkering with electronics but don't know squat about drivers, boards and what they are used for?


----------



## spackler (Jan 4, 2007)

I can't find the aluminum tubing at my Lowe's or Home Depot. I did find some EMT - electrical conduit. It appears to be a composite of metals:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100400409

Thoughts? Would this work instead of the aluminum tubing?

P.S. Thanks for all of the great information and staying with this thread for so long. I'm excited to try and build these lights!


----------



## sping (Jan 24, 2008)

spackler said:


> I did find some EMT - electrical conduit.
> <snip>
> Thoughts? Would this work instead of the aluminum tubing?


Your link doesn't work for me, but I'd expect conduit to be zinc-plated steel or something. Whatever, the big plus about Al is that it has great thermal conductivity, which is important here. That's why most heatsinks are Al. Copper's even better, but more expensive and less durable.

The heat spreads quickly over the whole tube, and so has the whole surface area to escape from. Steel would not be nearly as effective.


----------



## spackler (Jan 4, 2007)

Sorry about the link, I guess it is store specific or something b/c once I entered my zip code it worked. Oh well... here's the description:

"Allied EMT is hot galvanized using Allied's patented in-line Flo-Coat® process. This process combines zinc, a conversion coat and a clear organic top-coat to form a triple layer of protection against corrosion and abrasion. Allied EMT provides shielding magnetic fields from within and without, while its uniform wall thickness provides resistance to physical damage from impact or crushing. Allied EMT's quality steel combines damage resistant strength with ductibility to provide easy bending, cutting and joining to prevent waste of time and material. It resists flattening, kinking or splitting, resulting in faster and easier installations.

* Steel Conduit
* U.L. Safety Standard 797
* Electrical Conduit
* Electrical Raceway System
* MFG Model # : N/A
* MFG Part # : 101568"

But from what you're saying Sping, I should find some Al. I'll keep looking. Thanks!


----------



## sxr-racer (Nov 17, 2005)

try mcmaster carr


----------



## perryscope (Sep 21, 2008)

*Torch Mounts*

Hi,

Has anyone got any good suggestions for torch mounts?
I have found a few at dealextreme, including this one...

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15642

..or are people just using the o-ring option to hold their lights on?


----------



## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

I just tied part of a bungee cord into a loop of the appropriate size. You can use a solid color bungee and shrink tube the knot if you want it too look nice. That DX mount looks way more solid than there early offerings but it lacks side to side adjust so probably not good for riser bars.


----------



## Gimpy00Wang (Jan 23, 2006)

McMaster # 9056K53 or 9056K52 could work.

- Chris


----------



## sxr-racer (Nov 17, 2005)

May have been asked before, but has anybody found a place in the states to purchase these parts LED, Drivers, etc etc........


----------



## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

sxr-racer said:


> May have been asked before, but has anybody found a place in the states to purchase these parts LED, Drivers, etc etc........


Edit - Deal Extreme is in Hong Kong - my bad...


----------



## SkUG (Feb 19, 2008)

http://www.luxeonstar.com/about-us.php is in canadaada


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Somebody posted a place where you could buy aluminum tubing on-line. I can't remember where I saw it. I think it was here... http://www.onlinemetals.com/

Drivers from here: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/
LED'S from here: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=178588
Optics from here: http://www.ledsupply.com/

All in the states.


----------



## spackler (Jan 4, 2007)

p97z said:


> Somebody posted a place where you could buy aluminum tubing on-line. I can't remember where I saw it. I think it was here... http://www.onlinemetals.com/
> 
> Drivers from here: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/
> LED'S from here: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=178588
> ...


So I have an order at dealextreme for cree's but after a second notice that things aren't available (and won't be for a while), I'm starting to look at alternatives but don't know what will work with the Seouls.

If I went with the U2SWOI from cpfmarketplace, what driver would I go with from theledguy? Would this one work? http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=920 Is there one that is better/cheaper?

And then I didn't know which of these would be better, also from cpf... 
Khatod Smooth Reflector for the Seoul P4
Khatod Stippled Reflector for the Seoul P4

Thanks!


----------



## Hambonio (Jul 16, 2008)

Look at my post on page 18.


----------



## spackler (Jan 4, 2007)

Hambonio said:


> Look at my post on page 18.


I assume you're pointing me towards your comment about the drivers. Thanks for the quick reply but that is the part that I have on order from DealExtreme and it is one of two parts causing the delays. I should have clarified... I am looking for other options.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

spackler -- the GD 500 is an excellent single mode driver. You may want to go a little brighter (higher current) like a 750 or a 1000. I've used the GD 1000 and found it to be excellent. Sure it costs more then the DX drivers... but you'll get it faster and it may be a little more efficient.

The Khatod reflectors from CPF will work but I found the smooth reflector to be a little too spotty for my taste. Go with the seoul led's and the K2 optics.

You can't go wrong with Seoul LED, K2 optcs and the $andwich $hoppe drivers.

The nice thing about the sandwich shoppe driver is that you can carry an extra 2AA pack, from radio shack for a backup battery.


----------



## coombs (Jun 22, 2005)

*housing help*

So I went to Lowe's all excited about finally getting this thing going. After wandering around the store for too long I figured out that the 3/4 in. copper cap does not fit well inside the 1 in. aluminum conduit. I tried to fit various other parts, but I can't seem to find a cap with an outer diameter that fits snuggly inside the inner diameter of the aluminum. Did I do something wrong, do I not understand, or is it just that loose of a fit? Thanks for your help!


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

coombs said:


> I can't seem to find a cap with an outer diameter that fits snuggly inside the inner diameter of the aluminum.


The cap that I got had a 1/8" lip on it that I had to file off to get it to fit. Once that lip was filed down it fits in a little loose.


----------



## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

coombs -- The fit has just enough room to fit the filed down copper slug with a little arctic alumina around it. Are you sure the aluminum is 1 inch?


----------



## nuno.bett (Oct 3, 2008)

*Dinotte Style Osram Ostar*

Cheers to everyone,

I'm planning on doing a dinotte style bike light, based on the osram ostar LE W E3B led. If anyone has done any similar setup, suggestions and opinions will be more than welcomed.

For this I have some questions on which I would like some help. I will present my questions along the material list I've gathered:

*LED:*

Osram Ostar LE W E3B (5400K) - http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0ba2/0900766b80ba2cdf.pdf from http://es.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=le+w+e3b&x=0&y=0 
Osram Ostar LE UW E3B (6500K) - http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/09bb/0900766b809bb0b3.pdf from http://es.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=le+uw+e3b&x=0&y=0
_Doubts:_

Don't know which led would work best.. if the 5400k or 6500k model
If anyone knows a place to buy that is cheaper than the one I mentioned, your recommendations are welcomed 
_*Housing: *_

 1.1/2" (10swg - 3,2mm thick) alloy tube, which would result in an inner diameter of 34,9mm
 1.1/2" (16swg - 1,6mm thick) alloy tube, which would result in an inner diameter of 36,5mm
.
_*Led Heatsinking:*_

Copper cap. The best size I found for a 34,9mm inner tube diameter, was the 1.1/4". 
_Doubts: _

Which thermal compound should be used between the led and the heat sink?

*Reflector/Optics:*
LEDILSTAR-L-S 8º (35mm) - http://www.ledil.fi/datasheets/DataSheet_LEDILSTAR-L.pdf
LEDILSTAR-L-W 18º (35mm) - http://www.ledil.fi/datasheets/DataSheet_LEDILSTAR-L.pdf
FRC-N1-OE2B-0 Narrow (34,5mm dia) - http://www.fraensrl.com/images/Fraen_FRC_Datasheet.pdf
FRC-M1-OE2B-0 Medium (34,5mm dia) - http://www.fraensrl.com/images/Fraen_FRC_Datasheet.pdf
_Doubts: _

If I use a Ledistar, I won't need a front glass (don't know the specific name for it). Instead, if I use a Fraen Reflector, I'll need to put something in front of it - what could i use?
If I use the Fraen, which is 34,5mm dia, how can I place it inside a 34,9mm interior dia 
tube, so that it secures properly? should cir-clips be used? any kind of glue? adhesive tape?
*Driver:
*
Shark step up converter (for powering the led) - http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_49_61&products_id=721
Remora (for switching modes) - http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=988
_Doubts:_

If I use a Remora board, how do I change modes? Does the Remora board "remember" the last state it was in? I haven't seen this answer anywhere around. 
 What kind of switch should be used with this Step up driver+Remora?
 Still don't know if I'll need a heat sink or not for this driver
*Batteries:*

Initially I'll use 12V lithium batteries that I have laying around the house.

Doubt of all doubts.. do you think this setup will work? will a driver heat sink be needed? my highest concern it to the heat generated by this led @ high power mode, and the subsequent heat generated from the driver... will the tube be able to dissipate it?

Don't know if I forgot something, most probably I did... I would appreciate if you could give me a suggestion to some of the questions, or any other suggestion in general, because I'm anxious to start ordering my stuff and put it all together.

Bests,

Nuno


----------



## coombs (Jun 22, 2005)

p97z said:


> coombs -- The fit has just enough room to fit the filed down copper slug with a little arctic alumina around it. Are you sure the aluminum is 1 inch?


It looks like I was fitting the NIBCO 3/4 in. copper cap not the NIBCO 3/4 in. copper plug. Unfortunately, the Lowes here doesn't seem to carry the plug. Are there other sources? Thanks.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

nuno.bett -- WOW!

Looks like you have a plan! I think what you posted may just work. I'm not sure about the shark board though. Have you tried posting your questions to the CPF forums?

If it's like any other driver you change modes by powering it on and off.

The heat should be ok as long as you keep moving. When you slow down you'll probably need to put it on the lowest setting.

Sorry I can't be of any help. Keep us posted on what you find....


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

*Finally starting this project*

Hi Guys,

Here is my take on this design.. I have all the parts sitting around and have completed the externals of the design however i still need to get my hands on a heat sink. I should be able to get some 25.4mm aluminum round and hack/machine something out of that sometime next week.

Each light will have a cree r2 using the 8 degree cree optic and run off a buckpuck at 1000mah. It will be powered off a 14.4 v li-ion 2200mah that will be in my camel back to save on weight.

I still have to figure out how to wire it but am thinking i will run the wires through a grommet in the side of the light body next to the clamp. For ease of setup, i won't bother incorporating the switch and it will power on when the battery is plugged in.

Can't wait to finish it now that it is this close!


----------



## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

ocean Mate, I don't want to put a damper on your design but those two bits of alloy are pointing down straight at your skull, not good in a crash.

Good idea with the reflector type plastic brackets.


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

Cheers Yetibetty :thumbsup: 

A much better idea to discover that now rather than when i have managed to mount the light permanently to my skull  

To be honest it is a little bit difficult to get the o-ring all hooked up. I will modify the design so that it is a little less catastrophic in an accident however it was designed so that the o-ring would be the first thing to give way.


----------



## Hambonio (Jul 16, 2008)

coombs,
Did you check Home Depot? I bought mine at Lowes, or HD, can't remember which.


----------



## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

*ocean breathes salty* Very good idea!!!!!!! thanks for the pics :thumbsup:

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


----------



## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

ocean breathes salty said:


> Here is my take on this design.. I have all the parts sitting around and have completed the externals of the design however i still need to get my hands on a heat sink. I should be able to get some 25.4mm aluminum round and hack/machine something out of that sometime next week. I still have to figure out how to wire it but am thinking i will run the wires through a grommet in the side of the light body next to the clamp. For ease of setup, i won't bother incorporating the switch and it will power on when the battery is plugged in.


Ocean, from your pic it looks like your donor light is one that unscrews in two places and there is a lip on the front bit that you can but your optic up against:


















So you aren't planning on using YetiBetty's idea of mounting the optic in what was the back of the old light head?

Where did you source your donor lights from?

About remodelling your bracket to stop unfortunate skull intrusions: you could just saw off the bits that currently make the channel for the o-ring to fit in to leave a long tongue of ally poking out. Then bend the ally up a few mm's up from where the long tongue comes out (so that there are no sharp bits pointing down). Then the o-ring can loop over the tongue bits. Does this make sense?


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

Hey GITD, 

Great minds think alike:thumbsup: , Your mount description makes sense and was what I had been planning to do. 

I have the DX cheapy torches and was all set to do the reverse design when i stumbled across these lights. They are actually from a Coles supermarket here in Aus for $5 each. They have o'ring seals at each end and the hole to mount the "wrist strap" doesn't enter the light body. I have seen a SKU for the same light body on DX for 2 for $5 but didn't want to wait the 2 months for them to turn up. 

The 9 led pod is held in place by a threaded washer so is easy to remove and will make mounting the new optics a sinch. They were also more solid with a slightly larger bore which was capable of holding a buckpuck.

I am going to run it off a 14.4v battery and so i couldn't figure out a way to use the DX torch drivers. They are sitting around waiting for a rainy day....

The downside is that the optics are actually a little loose inside the head piece and may need an o-ring of some sort as a space filler. 

I have wednesday off so should be able to complete the build then. Hopefully I will get a chance to do some beamshots aswell.


----------



## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

ocean breathes salty said:


> I have the DX cheapy torches and was all set to do the reverse design when i stumbled across these lights. They are actually from a Coles supermarket here in Aus for $5 each.


Noice! I'm in Aus too, so I'll have to keep a look out for them.



ocean breathes salty said:


> The 9 led pod is held in place by a threaded washer so is easy to remove and will make mounting the new optics a sinch. They were also more solid with a slightly larger bore which was capable of holding a buckpuck.


They sound like they are (relatively) nicely built. The Reject Shop light I bought only screws off at the back and there is no bevel on the front to keep the optics in.



ocean breathes salty said:


> I am going to run it off a 14.4v battery and so i couldn't figure out a way to use the DX torch drivers. They are sitting around waiting for a rainy day....


What drivers are they? I might be able to take them off your hands. I was thinking about getting some from DX but the exchange rate has tanked so badly I wanted to wait until it climbed a little bit .. I am bleeding that it was bloody nearly parity only a few months ago.



ocean breathes salty said:


> The downside is that the optics are actually a little loose inside the head piece and may need an o-ring of some sort as a space filler.
> 
> I have wednesday off so should be able to complete the build then. Hopefully I will get a chance to do some beamshots aswell.


For a space filler you could try a piece of polypipe. It doesn't have to be the correct diameter, cut it along it's length and it can expand (or contract) as much as needed.

Looking forward to the beamshots!


----------



## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

I finally got some commuting time in on my light. So far I'm really happy with the build. The light is staying plenty cool and running it off of the 4 pack of C batteries is working fine. My commute in is about an hour and I've done it several times w/o a recharge without the batteries dieing. I haven't done a runtime test, but it's working for what I want so I probably won't. I'm running the 15deg optic right now which is throwing a good pattern for me commuting. I would like to have a bit more light out at a distance so I was thinking this morning on the way in that I would build up another with a 5 deg spot optic in it and put it on my helmet. I remembered that originally in this thread P97 was running the lights off of a 3 AA battery pack so I may try to find a holder that would do that. It would be easy to put that battery pack in a jersey pocket. 

Thanks for all the inspiration and the know how.....without it I would still be running an old piece of crap halogen because I can't afford to go out and buy a nice light system.


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

It doesn't look good for me finishing my build today. I can't find a Nibco plug to use as a heat sink so decided to use aluminium round as substitute. I am trying to reduce 25.4 mm round to approx 23.5 mm round and have been hacking and filing for nearly 4 hours now and it still won't quite fit.... sigh. What i wouldn't give for a lathe at this point 

To top it all off, it is p!$$ing down rain and i only have a cramped little back porch area to work in (no shed  ).


----------



## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

ocean breathes salty said:


> To top it all off, it is p!$$ing down rain and i only have a cramped little back porch area to work in (no shed  ).


I can't find a sympathy smiley .. but I feel your pain.

I am about to build a workbench for my little shed so I have somewhere to put my projects.

The wife gets a bit stressed when bike light bits litter the dining table for more than 2 weeks ..


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

I can't believe how long this can take sometimes. I managed to get one LED wired up and the switch wired in but still have the other side to go. It was whittling the Alum round that cost me most of the day. 

Oh well, nothing worthwhile is ever easy i guess.....


----------



## robin_hood (Feb 8, 2006)

I'm planning on doing a dinotte style bike light also, it will be my first light build-up.

I have ordered:

Cree XR-E R2 WG on stars
23.36mm Optics/Light Diffusers for Cree Emitters 
3.6V~9V 800mA Regulated IC Circuit Board for Cree and SSC LEDs 
and
Soshine AA 2500mAh Batteries

I am planning on using a Radioshack 4 AA battery holder, any suggestions for conections, or should I just wire it up without?

Also anyone have a sugestion for a good charger for those batteries?
https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.487


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

robin_hood -- You may want to order battery holders from here.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2120

You can add your own power connector to this 4AA case. The radio shack holder uses a 9 volt battery clip. In the dark it's easy to reverse polarity the 9v clip. Those drivers are easy to blow if the polarity is reversed.

This is the charger that I use.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1401


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

I have just ordered some of these:










to see if they are suitable for my needs (I hate soldering plugs, keep melting the damn things). They are used on RC battery packs, so are probably ok for LED bike lights.


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

I used this set of wire/connectors. I really like it so far. http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=CP-2217-ND


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## flyxaos (May 18, 2006)

I just wanted to say thanks to everbody for the input.

Here is my set up, prototype #1.

Cree Q5, tri mode driver, cheap spot lens from DX. 

The pack is schedule 40 3/4 pvc. It allows 2 PCB 18650's. It is wired in paralel, to keep it at 3.7 volts. Could just as easy be wired in series. The cap of the pack does not hold the batteries in, but i have a "key" inside that keeps the pressure on them.

Did my first ride with it last night, using 4 AA nimh. Went strong for over 1.5 hours, then I ran out of time, so shut it down.

Thanks again.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

*Dual Dinotte completed!*

After what seems like weeks of planning and scheming, I have finally finished my build.

There were a few heart starting moments, like when i finally finished assembilng, connected the battery for the first time and... NOTHING. Switched on and off a few times.... NOTHING   WAIT!!... I was using the wrong swtich i.e the side that wasn't connected to anything :madman:

After that, everything worked fine!

I have modified the mount as per Yetti Betty's advice but had to add another "tongue" to stabilize the light a bit more. Now it is rock steady and it will probably be my head that is bouncing around everywhere 

The cable is off an old mobile phone charger that i had lying around which is nice and flexy. There is still a bit of tape in the shots which i have since fixed up with heat shrink.

These light bodies are much heavier than the DX cheapie lights, hence the build weights quite a bit (the heat sinks have nothing to do with it.. honestly  )

I have more photos of the the internals etc for anyone that is intersted... just PM me so that I don't fill up the thread with junk pics.

Now I am just waiting for it to get dark and i will do some beam shots with it... 4 hours time or so.









































A big thankyou to everyone that has contributed to this epic thread so far. It has given me the confidence and tips to get something like this to actually work.


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

ocean breathes salty said:


> After what seems like weeks of planning and scheming, I have finally finished my build.


BIG UPS! WOO HOO!

:band:



ocean breathes salty said:


> I have modified the mount as per Yetti Betty's advice but had to add another "tongue" to stabilize the light a bit more. Now it is rock steady and it will probably be my head that is bouncing around everywhere


That mounts looks really nice now, and quite pro. I meant to say that was a great idea to use the reflector mounts.



ocean breathes salty said:


> I have more photos of the the internals etc for anyone that is intersted... just PM me so that I don't fill up the thread with junk pics.


Junk!?



No such thing. There are heaps of nervous potential DIYers that might be tempted to give it a shot if they have a really good idea of how someone has done it before them. It is sometimes the fiddly little details that can stump people.

Like .. what is that little gey ring around the bottom of your optic holder? Is that what you've use to stop the optic rattling about?



ocean breathes salty said:


> A big thankyou to everyone that has contributed to this epic thread so far. It has given me the confidence and tips to get something like this to actually work.


I reckon you've managed a nice clean build here Salty. Those light heads may be heavier than the cheapy DX ones, but the lip to mount the optic and the easy fit of the optic make it a great design. Topped off with the readily available parts for a classy mount (everyone in the household will wonder where their reflectors have gone though).

Oh, and I pissed myself (laughing ..) when I saw the guerrilla weigh-in. Nice one!


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

BEAM SHOT TIME!!!!!!

Well it is finally dark enough to take some beam shots so I headed off to the local trail a few minutes ago to take some beam shots. I pulled up in the car and started to get all the gear together. Camera - check - Tripod - check - helmet with light - check - battery - ummmmmm :madman: . So after heading back home to pick up the battery i managed to get set up. I have spaced trail markers every 10 meters however i now know that i will need to bring more in future.

btw: before anyone asks...... yes, the markers are socks on sticks (i couldn't think of anything else to take along and i got a laugh out of it  ).

First of all is a control to illustrate the amount of ambient light..... it was DARK.









Second is with a single stock version of the 9 LED hand torch









Third is the dual dinotte helmet light.









Fourth is my first light i made. I will call it the Fakesalot as it is a twin q5 with flood ledil square optics. Off the top of my head i can't remember which.









All in all, I am ecstatic with the amount of light I now have :cornut: . It's no Trout light but we all have to start somewhere.

For those that are interested, the shots were taken as close to possible to the MTBR light shoot out standards. One problem i struck was the crap lens i had on the camera was only capable of f4.5 (vs f4.0) so these are actually a little dimmer than they should have been.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

glowinthedark said:


> Like .. what is that little gey ring around the bottom of your optic holder? Is that what you've use to stop the optic rattling about?


I was finding that the optic was a little loose so i padded the front (largest) portion of the optic holder with some tape so that it was a snug fit. Since this light design has the "screw in washer", I found a random washer laying around that was the same size as the bottom of the optic holder and it snapped on perfectly. When I tighten the threaded washer, it pushes the optic against the front of the torch and everything stays tight.

My biggest problem with it was getting enough clearance so that the washer didn't touch the soldering on the stars and short the buckpuck. I ended up drilling out the washer significantly so that it would fit further up the "cone" of the optic holder and give me enough room. I covered the washer with electrical tape also just to make doubly sure.

Edit: p.s Big thanks to Ktronik at the LBS for the reflector clamps.


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## hootsmon (Feb 7, 2008)

What an awesome helmet-light! I was wondering where to find that coiled cable (which looks great by the way). Nice work!


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

very good salty looks ace I bet you are dead happy with it 

The middle sock looks a bit grubby good you have not used smell-o-vision camera

did anyone see you out there


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## hootsmon (Feb 7, 2008)

glowinthedark said:


> BIG UPS! WOO HOO!
> Oh, and I pissed myself (laughing ..) when I saw the guerrilla weigh-in. Nice one!


Yeah mate, those scales in the fruit-and-veg department are priceless!


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## sxr-racer (Nov 17, 2005)

hootsmon said:


> Yeah mate, those scales in the fruit-and-veg department are priceless!


Talk about Ghetto!!!!!!!! I love it. Great idea. Would have never have thought of doing that!!!!!!


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

troutie-mtb said:


> very good salty looks ace I bet you are dead happy with it
> 
> The middle sock looks a bit grubby good you have not used smell-o-vision camera
> 
> did anyone see you out there


I was all alone thankfully so no-one saw me (except for Mrs Salty who came along and was the helmet model).

next time i will take more socks, I was a little surprised that the light would throw quite that far.

Thanks for the compliments everyone. I am already planning bigger and better things... building lights seems to be about the journey, not necessarily the destination.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

I can't send pics via PM so here is a circuit diagram for interested parties. I would use a 3023 buckpuck with external dim and put a dimmer on the second switch if i was doing it again.


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

ocean breathes salty said:


> I was finding that the optic was a little loose so i padded the front (largest) portion of the optic holder with some tape so that it was a snug fit. Since this light design has the "screw in washer", I found a random washer laying around that was the same size as the bottom of the optic holder and it snapped on perfectly. When I tighten the threaded washer, it pushes the optic against the front of the torch and everything stays tight.
> 
> My biggest problem with it was getting enough clearance so that the washer didn't touch the soldering on the stars and short the buckpuck. I ended up drilling out the washer significantly so that it would fit further up the "cone" of the optic holder and give me enough room. I covered the washer with electrical tape also just to make doubly sure.


See, this sort of detail is *gold*. Coz now I can say that this is a very nice design feature, you are putting pressure directly on the optic holder, not pushing on the metal PCB of the emitter. I can't recall where I saw it but recently I read that it was very important not to put pressure on the emitter itself. Apparently it is quite easy to break with mechanical force. Now the optic holder has this nice clip thing that keeps the optic from pushing on the emitter, but putting heaps of pressure on it with a screw-in mount still might not be the best idea.

This is also why it is best to keep the optic holder and sand it down rather than mount the lens directly on the emitter when space is an issue.

Liked the beamshots by the way, well done. You have an exceptionally understanding wife. I think mine would call me a looney if I asked her to stand very still in the wilderness with a torch on her head shining the light on a bunch of socks on sticks .....

..... you're a looney. ut:


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

I actually had to sand the little "LED clip" portion of the optic holder off. Since the optic holder twists as the light head screws on, it would catch and try to twist the LED off the heat sink. So i removed the little clip tabs so that it would spin freely and not catch.

I constructed the optic holder section first and then glued the LED in place using the optic holder as the guide to ensure the LED was centred beneath the optic.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

*Notes from the trail....*

I got out for my first ride with the new helmet light tonight. I was quite impressed with the output, The optics are very spotty and excellent for seeing distant objects however i had to make some trail side mods to the mount. It was angled so that it wasn't throwing far enough ahead..









this was a massive improvement! :thumbsup: I will bend the mounting bracket so that it maintains this angle for the next ride. Otherwise, the rubber o-ring style mount worked perfectly.

Everything stayed nice and cool with the housings barely above ambient while moving ( which was probably about 28 c) so the heat sinking was working well. It was actually much cooler than my twin q5 achesalot. As a matter of fact, they were probably both cooler than I was... too damn hot for riding :madmax:

After a few minutes, I didn't notice the extra weight in the light so 220g is manageable.


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## notaknob (Apr 6, 2004)

*light where you look*



ocean breathes salty said:


> I got out for my first ride with the new helmet light tonight. I was quite impressed with the output, The optics are very spotty and excellent for seeing distant objects however i had to make some trail side mods to the mount. It was angled so that it wasn't throwing far enough ahead..


One thing I've noticed about night riding is that when I'm descending technical stuff, I want my headlight closer to me. When on high-speed straight trails, I want it a bit further out. I think a better solution is to have the light head adjustable up/down versus side-to-side like you have.

Try making a mount like you have but flipping the U-bracket up and mounting the light heads to that. You can make it slightly lower-profile by sawing off the end piece of the reflector holder and using the screws that hold the light heads directly into the bracket.


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## big-ted (Oct 16, 2005)

OK, my turn to step up to this and ask for a consolidation of the info here. I've gone through this whole thread over the last few days. I can figure out the pairing of LEDs, drivers, and optics, but it looks like one must first decide which route to go down.

Currently, it seems the current "state of the art" is either the Seoul P7, or the Cree R2.

Seoul P7

pros: wider range of optics available, compatible with (widely preferred?) L2 optic, more readily available from sources other than dealextreme, who by all accounts are a PITA.

cons: not as high lumen output of the Cree R2. Anyone have quoted lumen outputs for the R2? It seems Cree haven't updated their datasheets recently...

Obviously, the pros/cons of the R2 are reversed. Am I roughly right?

I'm a grad student in an experimental optical physics lab, so I'm hopeful I can produce something decent. Certainly, access to a lathe and scrap materials is not a problem, and I would consider my soldering "above par". I've already gathered a bunch of stuff that I might use to make a housing. One idea I'm toying with is making the entire thing out of copper. Together with some surface area optimisation, thermal contacting agents and our cold BC weather I figure heat dissipation should be of no concern to me.

You guys seem to be looking to dissipate the heat from the driver as much as the emitter, correct? It's the cooling of the driver that's leading people to great lengths to obtain copper plugs for the back of the light.

It seems Digikey carry most of what I'm likely to need, though being in Canada I'd appreciate hearing from anyone that's managed to get a hold of the required materials North of the border.

Bring it on.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

I can't wait to see what you turn out!!

The Cree MCE in the M bin is probably the newest and most promising. It is a similar 4 die arrangment to the P7 and will put out 430 lumens at 350ma (or was that 500ma)

Are you intending to design and produce the optics yourself?? That would be very impressive!

I haven't had to worry about heat sinking the buckpuck i used.... Someone correct me if I am wrong but it seems to be more relevant when there is big discrepancies between Vf and battery voltage whilst driving large numbers of LED's. In a single LED set up, the driver isn't working nearly as hard as a quad LED set up. 

Best of luck with it


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## hootsmon (Feb 7, 2008)

*Steampunk*



big-ted said:


> One idea I'm toying with is making the entire thing out of copper.


Wow, now there's a cool idea. As you're no doubt well aware, copper has pros and (lots of) cons....

If you appreciate Steampunk, then copper (plus a bit of brass or aluminium) might be just the ticket! We have already seen some awesome Steampunk creations on this forum, so if you like 'em then go for it!
Weight : Copper is more than 3 times denser than Aluminium (ie. 8.96 vs 2.7 g/cm3).
Conductivity : Copper is somewhat better at heat conduction than Aluminium (ie. 401 vs 237 W·m−1·K−1)
Mechanical strength : Don't know for sure, but I'm guessing copper's weaker.
Cost : Copper's expensive and harder to get
For all these reasons, Aluminium is the obvious choice for DIY lightbuilding. In fact, just about the only place where I've seen Copper used is for the heatsink behind a power-LED in a Dinotte-style torch. Here, its purpose is just to rapidly transfer heat away from the LED driver, so it can be spread into the alloy torch-body. So that means only a relatively small piece of copper is usually needed, and even then it's hidden away where nobody sees it as well.

To sum up, although I've considered using some copper, it really doesn't make a lot of sense from a practical light-building point of view (especially for bike-lights where light weight matters).

We'll be very interested to see what you come up with!!!


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

hootsmon said:


> Wow, now there's a cool idea. As you're no doubt well aware, copper has pros and (lots of) cons....


My first decent lights were copper pipe. Bash one side flat for star mounting, holes in the other to let the light out. 
End sealed either with reflectors or epoxy.

This guy had a mount brazed on. 









This one uses a cateye mount.
Simple resistor drive with dimming pot.
Actually resurrected this light recently and turned it into a dyno powered light while finishing my penta R2. Dual P3 cree at 500mA woohoo.


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## hootsmon (Feb 7, 2008)

Znomit, they're both stylish, but I really like the cateye one best.
Hmmm, perhaps that massive Pentium copper-heatsink I found may turn out useful after all.


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

Big-ted

You might be able to get the Cree MC-E from digikey and you might also be able to get a complete constant current power supply. What I suggest you do instead is send out a ton of e-mails and get some engineering samples. You could probably just make a PCB for the constant current circuit and then solder on a bunch of engineering samples. Since you are a student lots of companies are willing to mail out samples. It would be rad if you managed to get a MC-E sample from Cree. Sadly there is no one stop shop for LED light parts. Cutter.com.au is as close as it gets but there batteries are steep in price. For batteries www.all-battery.com is quite cheap. An optical physics student might be just what we all need around here. Some one might come up with a truly optimized beam pattern for off road night riding.


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## big-ted (Oct 16, 2005)

Cheers everyone! I'll hunt around over the next few days to see what's available. Bikerjay, funnily enough I already submitted an application for Cree engineering samples last night. We'll see what comes back but if there's nothing us students aren't good at it's scrounging! 

Salty, whilst designing the optics myself would indeed be pretty impressive, I don't really have the setup to manufacture them here. We have a glass polishing facility, but getting time on it for a personal project would be, um, tricky to say the least!

Hootsmon, yeah, I'm aware that it's not all plain sailing with copper. The cost/availability issue is moot since all chassis components will be sourced from our machine shop scraps. I already have enough to turn down 3 plugs and a 4" length of copper tubing. The wall thickness on the tubing may be a little thin though. I don't want to put grooves for a handlebar in it, as this will be a dedicated helmet light, but I would like to turn some ridges into the pipe to improve heat loss. That said, I'm not sure I care for the "Wild Wild West" image, so we'll see.

Today will be spent figuring out the binning and numbering system for these LEDs. They don't make it simple do they?! One thing that I'm wondering is if it's worth using something designated "warm white" as opposed to the "pure white" or "neutral white" designations that seem more popular. The warm version might be more similar to a halogen light which, in my experience, would be preferable. Any thoughts?


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## 96m2comp (Oct 12, 2007)

This Cree MC-E is new to me! I was planning on building this light with the R2, but if I can use the same driver as Salty suggested, this may be the way I go. 

Anyone have knowledge on this? Similar voltage as a R2? I did find a little info. It looks like max input is 700ma per led. Is there a driver that has an output around 650ma or so? That way am close, but not walking the "fine line"? And will the optic that Salty used on his Cree light work on this?

Thank you for the help!
Chris


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

ocean breathes salty said:


> I actually had to sand the little "LED clip" portion of the optic holder off. Since the optic holder twists as the light head screws on, it would catch and try to twist the LED off the heat sink. So i removed the little clip tabs so that it would spin freely and not catch.
> 
> I constructed the optic holder section first and then glued the LED in place using the optic holder as the guide to ensure the LED was centred beneath the optic.


More interesting detail. Thanks.

It seems there is more to realising this build than I thought at first.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

96m2comp said:


> This Cree MC-E is new to me! I was planning on building this light with the R2, but if I can use the same driver as Salty suggested, this may be the way I go.
> 
> Anyone have knowledge on this? Similar voltage as a R2? I did find a little info. It looks like max input is 700ma per led. Is there a driver that has an output around 650ma or so? That way am close, but not walking the "fine line"? And will the optic that Salty used on his Cree light work on this?
> 
> ...


Depends on the battery voltage that you have. The Vf for an LED increases as the current increases so the forward voltage will depend on how hard you are driving it. At 350mah, it is about 3.2 v and increases to about 3.7 at 700ma. Without knowning what battery you are going to use, you could take a couple of paths....

1. Wire the dies 2s2p and power off a 1000ma buckpuck to give 500ma per die and a forward voltage of about 7v. Remember it is a buck regulator

2. Wire the 2s2p and power off a maxflex 3 at the 1200ma setting and give 600ma per die.Remember it is a boost reg

3. wire the dies in series and power off a 700ma buckpuck for 700 per die. Vf will theoretically be 14.8 v. Having said this, Troutie bench tested his MCE and found the Vf was actually lower on his particular LED (about 13 ish from memory). The jury is out as to whether there is variabilty between chips or whether something else weird was going on.
Remember it is a buck regulator.

Hope this helps a little. Check out trouties "MCE but need a little help" thread about page 15 for examples of what optics he has tested.

p.s Don't worry about being on the edge at 700ma. I saw on candlepower forums someone was driving it at 1000ma (the downside being decreased efficiency and heat). Originally, the q5's and r2's were only rated at 700ma but people were driving them at 1000ma without probs so they upped the specs.


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

*Removing the plastic in the end cap*

Just an aside, does anyone have any suggestions for (non-destructively) removing the plastic stuff in the end caps of these cheap lights? Mine looks like this:










(sorry about the crappy pic). The plastic stuff is hard (can be scratched with sharp things, but not at all easy to dig out) and smelly. I want to get it out so I can wire this switch up to the power from the battery.

Drill?


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## Hack On Wheels (Apr 29, 2006)

big-ted said:


> Cheers everyone! I'll hunt around over the next few days to see what's available. Bikerjay, funnily enough I already submitted an application for Cree engineering samples last night. We'll see what comes back but if there's nothing us students aren't good at it's scrounging!
> 
> Salty, whilst designing the optics myself would indeed be pretty impressive, I don't really have the setup to manufacture them here. We have a glass polishing facility, but getting time on it for a personal project would be, um, tricky to say the least!
> 
> ...


I'd be interested in checking out the "warm white" LEDs, but you do lose a lot of lumens going to those as opposed to other tints. I looked into tints a lot before I started on the DIY thing and I ended up with Cree's WH tint, which is the warmest of the cool whites and I believe is actually pretty close to the light temperature of the sun, though my memory could be off about that. It seems to be alright for me, and I'd be happy to show you my lights for reference.

What weight is reasonable depends on a few things, one of which is the distribution. However, a number of people seem to say that under 150 grams is what they want for a helmet light. Might be hard to do that with copper?

And one thing that I forgot to mention/ask is... what are you thinking of doing for batteries? Batteries could potentially be the most expensive part of your light(s).


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## notaknob (Apr 6, 2004)

*Index!*



glowinthedark said:


> Just an aside, does anyone have any suggestions for (non-destructively) removing the plastic stuff in the end caps of these cheap lights? Mine looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Just use your index finger. They're not glued in tightly. You should be able to push it out without damaging the switch or the boot.

Alternatively, cut out a piece of plastic straight from the electrical contact to the outside rim. Once you've soldered it up, use some epoxy to seal it back in.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

The boot pulls out very easily and doesn't tear. I tend to pull the boot out... then use a pair of needle nosed pliers to push on the plastic holder to force it out, rather than pushing on the switch directly. I have found that some are much easier to remove than others however....


EDIT: I just figured out a much easier way.... 
1. Take out the battery holder from the light body. 
2. Re-attatch cap to light body
3.. pull the rubber boot out. 
4. Get a socket small enough to fit through the hole in the tail cap
5. Get a large hammer and a piece of sacrificial wood
6. place light body "LED first" onto bench top
7. Give the socket a good thump (piece of wood goes ontop to prevent damaging socket).

They pop out really really easily. Much better than breaking your thumbs if you are doing 8 of them in a row like me.


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

notaknob said:


> Just use your index finger. They're not glued in tightly. You should be able to push it out without damaging the switch or the boot.
> 
> Alternatively, cut out a piece of plastic straight from the electrical contact to the outside rim. Once you've soldered it up, use some epoxy to seal it back in.


Yeah thanks for that. I got the boot out no worries. Now I can see what is what I'll able to get it out without stuffing the switch. Or I might even be able to rig up something in-situ.

LEDS are the in the packaging stage a DX ...


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## Andy13 (Nov 21, 2006)

I am finally getting ready to pull the trigger on ordering some supplies and diving into this build. My plan is to use Cree XR-E R2 (WG) w/ a single mode driver. I have a couple of questions.
1. I am worried about the comments on frying the cheap DX drivers using 7.4V battery packs. Going w/ 6V or lower batteries are actually more expensive (batteryspace). It seems my only other option is using a 3023 buckpuck (1000mA) but they are $15 each. I would prefer to get as much light as possible so am looking for 800-1000mA drivers. So more money on batteries and less on drivers or vice-versa?
2. Should I use aluminum bar stock for a heatsink or will the copper plug be enough for this running at 1000mA?
3. I was reading in another thread that the battery needs to be within 18" of the buckpuck. I was hoping to have the option of running this on the helmet w/ the battery in a camelbak and it seems that would be longer than 18". 
Thanks for all the info.


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## 96m2comp (Oct 12, 2007)

Salty,

Thank you for the help. I am leaning towards just one led for the build as I would be making 2 light set-ups. I was thinking for battery voltage between 4.8-7.2, about 4.0ah or so.

Sounds like a 700mah driver will be ok then to get a little more output out of the led.

Will the current optics work on the MC-E as well?

T.Y!
Chris


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

HI all,

I had some spare parts lying around so decided to have another crack at this helmet light thingo.

I am only about halfway through figuring out exactly what i am going to do with it. I noticed that the thin diameter gap between the screw on light front and the light body is approx 3mm and i had some 3mm alu stripping.

I made a hole in the alu strip and fitted an o-ring to the optic side thread of the light body to dampen any vibration and create a snug fit. I am thinking i can make a second hole in the alu strip and mount the two torches side by side. I will probably significantly reduce the amount of alu in the bracket when a i get a bit more time to work on it. If anyone has any better suggestions, they would be greatly appreciated.....

It will be 2 x dx cheap torches shortened using the "Yetti Betty method". I had some of these drivers laying around so will run it at 680 ma +/- with a single driver for both R2's.

Anyway's here are some pics of what i have so far.....

p.s Ignore the ridiculous gauge wire i have on the driver. It was close to hand when i was first testing out the driver and is just a little excessive for this application.


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

ocean breathes salty said:


> HI all,
> 
> I had some spare parts lying around so decided to have another crack at this helmet light thingo.
> 
> ...


Excellent photos :thumbsup:

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

ocean, that's gonnabe smooth.


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## hootsmon (Feb 7, 2008)

Very nice, salty!


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## dkvick (Apr 16, 2004)

which optics did you use?


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

ocean breathes salty said:


> It will be 2 x dx cheap torches shortened using the "Yetti Betty method". I had some of these drivers laying around so will run it at 680 ma +/- with a single driver for both R2's.


Sweet as.

Couple of questions.

Were the DX lights a selection of colours as they show in the pic? As you seem to have created that light from two silver ones.

Do you have any tricks for getting a nice result with cutting the light head?


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

> which optics did you use?


some of these

I had an 8 degree and a 25 degree lying around so that is what i used. i would have prefered 2 x 8 degree so will probably order some more next time i get something from cutter.

Will post beam shots when i get around to finishing it.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

glowinthedark said:


> Sweet as.
> 
> Couple of questions.
> 
> ...


I am such a tool.... 

Yes, the lights are the sames shades as the DX pics. I ordered two sets of the lights so that i could be a bit picky with colours. I opened them in the evening under incandescent bulbs and didn't notice that the "grey" and "silver" lights were a slightly different shade. So I randomly picked out the bodies to make the lights out of and have wound up with two slightly different shades for the bodies even though i had enough bodies to get 2 the same. By the time i noticed, i couldn't have been bothered fixing it :madman:

I just used a hack saw to cut the bodies, There is a slight "step" in the body which makes a useful guide to keep you straight (ish).


----------



## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

ocean breathes salty said:


> some of these
> 
> I had an 8 degree and a 25 degree lying around so that is what i used. i would have prefered 2 x 8 degree so will probably order some more next time i get something from cutter.
> 
> Will post beam shots when i get around to finishing it.


These DX lenses seem to be identical to the CREE 8 degree lenses, are cheap, no delivery cost and are a tight beam (apparently). Popper posted some nice pics of these lenses earlier in this thread.

(As an aside, you can upload your pics to your own gallery and then link to them rather than using attachments if you want. Just hit the Photo Gallery link at the top and then upload some pics, then you can refer to them again if you need to)


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

glowinthedark said:


> These DX lenses seem to be identical to the CREE 8 degree lenses, are cheap, no delivery cost and are a tight beam (apparently). Popper posted some nice pics of these lenses earlier in this thread.
> 
> (As an aside, you can upload your pics to your own gallery and then link to them rather than using attachments if you want. Just hit the Photo Gallery link at the top and then upload some pics, then you can refer to them again if you need to)


I missed the link to those lenses earlier... I will order some straightaway!

I thought about hosting elsewhere however if i take them down, the thread looses some of its meaning.... besides, i haven't got them uploaded anywhere else anyway so it would still need me to upload...


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

ocean breathes salty said:


> I missed the link to those lenses earlier... I will order some straightaway!


I haven't sighted them myself, but they are currently being shipped, so hopefully I'll get to confirm they are the same first hand



ocean breathes salty said:


> I thought about hosting elsewhere however if i take them down, the thread looses some of its meaning.... besides, i haven't got them uploaded anywhere else anyway so it would still need me to upload...


I just thought I'd point out that you can upload them to mtbr.com and then just link to them. I noticed when replying to your posts that I can't "see" those pics except in your post. If you upload them to a gallery you can link to them in more than one post, for example. If you want to see "my" gallery, take a look here:

http://gallery.mtbr.com/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/391012

and you can make your own gallery too.

Just pointing it out in case you didn't know (I didn't ... until I did ... )


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

Here is the next phase of my helmet light build.

Unfortunately... it doesn't work. It is all wired up but won't power up <sigh>

At least the externals of the housing is done so i can trouble shoot some other day and get it working.


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

*found it!*

Woohooo... easiest trouble shoot ever!









It is all re-assembled and fully functional now!


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

*last couple of pics*

Here is the last set of photos from the build.... will do some beam shots when it gets dark!


----------



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Excelent looking light that Salty 
and looks tiny or have you got huge hands :thumbsup:


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

Looks blummin' slick. Well done that salty fella!

(Don't let that mean troutie get to you just because you have grotesquely enlarged hands)

My lenses have arrived, they look a wee bit different to the Cree lenses. The lens itself sits below the level of the front of the holder (the cree is flush) and the holder appears a little narrower in diameter. I have yet to confirm this with any actual measuring thingy. The Cree holder also has a gap in the front, where it clicks in, perhaps to allow it to be popped out again? 

They do gather light in an interesting way. When I hold them up and look in the front I can see things that are a LONG way to the left and right of the back of the lens. Quite cool effect.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

Yeah, my bad. The sharpest lens i have at the moment for the $LR is a 10-22 so anything that isn't smack in the middle of the frame gets pretty distorted. There should be a nice new lens coming for the "wifes" birthday in a couple of weeks although she might not get to play with it too much 

I will post some trout style ruler shots when i do the beam shots


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## sean916 (Dec 28, 2007)

This is looking really great salty. 

I still can't find the yetibetty shortening method tho :madman: if you have a link can you pls post. Thanks!


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

sean916 said:


> This is looking really great salty.
> 
> I still can't find the yetibetty shortening method tho :madman: if you have a link can you pls post. Thanks!


Post 327(ish) pages 13 & 14.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Salty, I knew it was gonna be smooth, but that is smooooooooooooooooooooooth:thumbsup:


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

> Post 327(ish) pages 13 & 14.


and page 12 has a little more info where the torches first make their appearance


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

yetibetty said:


> Salty, I knew it was gonna be smooth, but that is smooooooooooooooooooooooth:thumbsup:


Thanks Betty,

I am pretty chuffed with it 

I just wish I had put a 1000mah driver in it... because my other light is brighter, it isn't going to get used as much.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

*It's sock on a stick time!!!*

Here we go again... more beam shots and more socks on sticks...

Yes, I got some strange looks this time 

First... the control shot.








The MkII








The original








All in all, the original is significantly brighter which is to be expected with 2x spot optics and a 1000ma driver vs, 8 +25 degree optic at 680ma.


----------



## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

I'm not sure if the MK1 is brighter it just puts the light further out and is not as bright as the MK11 is in the foreground. 

Love the socks, makes me smile all day long.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

*last pics I promise*

Here are some with some measurements since all my other shots were a bit difficult to judge size.









p.s It doesn't seem to matter where i point the camera... the cat is there in seconds.. Little show pony!


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

:thumbsup:Looking Ace there salty . and the socks look cleaner :thumbsup:

lets see some red leds on the rear of that mounting plate next .

And wow you have got a huge cat too


----------



## Hambonio (Jul 16, 2008)

Who's going to be first to do a "DIY Dinotte" style MC-E light?


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## notaknob (Apr 6, 2004)

*hacker...*



yetibetty said:


> Post 327(ish) pages 13 & 14.


A steerer tube cutting guide works great for cutting these down for those of us who are straight-cutting challenged. The poor mans version is two hose clamps.

I think I saw the park guide recommendation from bikerjay somewhere.


----------



## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

The straight cut is childs play, even a pipe cutter can do that. The real magic of the park guide is for making grooves. With a little park cutting fluid and some patience you can make nice straight even grooves and fool people into thinking you have a lathe. A good Nichleson 32 or 24 tooth per inch hack saw blade is recommended as well The fine blade leaves a really smooth cut with the cutting fluid. It also goes slower and assures that you wont cut all the way through your tubing. I find that if I pivot my hack saw around the tube on the power stoke of the saw and turn the piece I am putting grooves on frequently it achieves a consistent depth for the groove.


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

when ever I find the cable for my digital camera I will post some photos.


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

I got around to measuring those DX optics, here is the schematic (I stole the CREE drawing and put in the numbers for the DX one)










and for comparison, here is the CREE optic:










So very close. In most cases it probably wouldn't make a difference, but I was planning on sitting the optic on the lip you can see in this pic:










But these DX lenses rattle about a bit more compared to the CREE ones. So I think I'll take to the housing with a hacksaw and sand a bit of the holder so it is a snug fit in the smaller ID part of the tube. I won't do a Yetibetty as my switch doesn't have a big enough hole and I think I'll get as good a result with this method (and some silicone sealer around the edge to keep out the water).


----------



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Hambonio said:


> Who's going to be first to do a "DIY Dinotte" style MC-E light?


I am thinking it may be this one


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## hootsmon (Feb 7, 2008)

Well done Troutie! That looks like the first MCE Achesalot, and I'll bet it's lightweight too.

You're a prolific builder alright. We're on the edge of our seats waiting to see for beamshots from that baby.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

Nice sticker on your light body Mr Trout. Looks pretty slick!


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

hootsmon said:


> Well done Troutie! That looks like the first MCE Achesalot, and I'll bet it's lightweight too.
> 
> You're a prolific builder alright. We're on the edge of our seats waiting to see for beamshots from that baby.


Hootsmon it has been swanning around on the mce thread for a while now

and the beamshot is the one I dont like much here 
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=427669&page=2

but hopefully when Ledil deliver the square optics the beam will get better.

It had a test today from a mate who new nothing about it tech wise 
and he said wow that is a great light , then about halfway into the ride he said it has a strange beam.

weight wise it is a svelte


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

*Helmet light*

I got the battery holder from Batteryspace.com today so it was time to finish building the helmet light.  I was trying to figure out how I was going to mount it and just taped it on my helmet to ride around and see where on the helmet it would work best for my commuting. I found that it didn't really need elevated off the helmet and decided to go for the quick and cheapy mount. I found some velcro that had sticky on one side and just used it. I put a fairly long strip on the helmet so I can move the light back and forth to adjust the beam height. I figure the light is so small and it's not like I'll be trail riding with it on a regular basis it shouldn't get jarred too badly. So, I think it might work. Test run will be tomorrow morning. I just have to remember not to look directly in the drivers side of cars when it is on. :nono: Here's a couple quick pictures of what I did. More tomorrow morning after my commute in.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

Really clean and simple job. Great work :thumbsup: I can't wait to see the rest of the pics.


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

The ride in this morning was COLD! I don't know think I'm going to ride if it gets below 20F outside, it was 25 or so this morning and wow was it cold.

The light worked really well. It picked up where my other left off. I have the same light on my bar and it has this 15deg lens in it. http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php The light on my helmet has a 5 deg lens in it. http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-005.php I took a longer route into work this morning because it has less street lights (does that make me a light geek?  ) and the combination of bar & helmet light worked awesome. I really liked having a light pointing where I was looking. It was super nice! I had the battery pack in my jersey pocket, but I'm going to start putting that in my backpack because it was too uncomfortable having the wire run under my backpack.

I still wonder at how a little LED can put off so much light. I love technology!


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

20deg is pretty cold but not miserable. Last winter in Flagstaff Arizona I made the mistake of commuting my nealy 15mile commute when it was -2F and windy. After that I checked weather reports religiously and drove if was not at least 10F. Its only November and its 20deg. wow. Sounds like you should use the money you saved on lights and invest in some of these
http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___53564?CS_003=2477120&CS_010=53564 
and good balaclava. I have those tights and there thick and feel a little bit like a wet suit only with out the chafing and the wet. They are by far my favorite piece of cold weather clothing that I own, they kept me from freezing my nuts off when I had them under my powder pants on a -15F wind chill day at the local ski hill.


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

bikerjay said:


> Its only November and its 20deg. wow. Sounds like you should use the money you saved on lights and invest in some of these
> http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___53564?CS_003=2477120&CS_010=53564
> and good balaclava.


I have a pair of PI thermafleece tights that I've been riding with that work really well. My legs weren't cold this morning at all. I got a pair of shoe covers this year and that has done wonders as well. Now to get the fingers taken care of. I haven't found the combination of gloves that I own that work quite right yet. Might have to shell out for some riding specific gloves. I have a pair of soft shell gloves that work awesome for cutting wind they are just a bit tight for having another layer underneath.

And.....I haven't really spent much on bike lights yet. I think I've put 40-45 bucks collectively in to these lights and I still have enough stuff left to build 2 more out of those supplies. I just don't have the battery capacity to do so. But I think I'm done for now unless my commuting partner sucks it up and decides that he's going to ride this winter.


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## notaknob (Apr 6, 2004)

*Charge it!*

Don't worry about the drivers. You want them to see you.

I look at the stuff on dealhack.com and saw this battery last month:
http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SkuSearch_v2.asp?SCriteria=3001464

Mwave Universal External Portable Power Bank For Ipod,Iphone,Iphone 3g for $40.



Features said:


> Technical Information:
> 
> # Standard Output: DC 9V, 1.2A(1.5A Max.), 19.5Wh
> # USB Output: DC 5V 0.5A(1A Max.), 20Wh
> ...


For someone who's got gadgets, it might be a decent dual-purpose battery if you throw a wire a connector to a USB cable. This would run a single LED for over 4 hours.


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

That's a cool idea. I'll definitely look into that battery.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

*MkIII*

Well, my mind has been ticking over and i am thinking of making a quad helmet light....

It will probably be 4 extra short light bodies mounted in a linear but slightly curved array with an external driver mounted to the back of the helmet with dimming etc

I have a mish mash of coloured light bodies left over so have been experimenting with removing the anodizing so that the whole light doesn't wind up looking like a technicolour yawn  If that doesn't work... i will just paint the whole thing black and be done with it 

Using a dremel with a wire brush attachment quickly removed the colour but left the aluminium very scratched and dull looking. I later realized i was working against the concentric machining marks on the light body which didn't help. Using some 240 grit sand paper and a little patience gave a much smoother finish (especially when i was working in the right direction). After that, i hit it with a polishing pad and some cutting polish with the dremel again. The result is pretty good however i think i can probably refine the process some.














as you can see in the pic, this body was originally purple <shudder>.

Oh, and i also got a 1 inch hole saw that makes perfect circles for the light bodies to attatch and saves hours of cursing while filing  This sure is addictive


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Salty -- How did you make the hole? Do you have a drill press?


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## sxr-racer (Nov 17, 2005)

easy off oven cleaner will remove the anodizing.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

> Salty -- How did you make the hole? Do you have a drill press?


 Yep. Since i didn't have a hole saw when i made the mkII, I drilled a dozen little holes around the inside of the circle then had to file them out to get a larger hole. The hole saw is much easier 



> easy off oven cleaner will remove the anodizing.


Now that sounds promising. Googles seems to indicate it is an american product. Any ideas what is in it to see if i can track down something similar?


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## shirk (Mar 24, 2004)

ocean breathes salty said:


> Well, my mind has been ticking over and i am thinking of making a quad helmet light....
> 
> It will probably be 4 extra short light bodies mounted in a linear but slightly curved array with an external driver mounted to the back of the helmet with dimming etc
> 
> ...


I'd really like to build a similar 4 unit head light like this.

What driver, LED, lens, and driver do you plan to use?


----------



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Salty 
just basic caustic soda will remove anodising / skin / flesh / the whole housing if left in long enough 

That is usually the active ingredient in oven cleaner .

Farm supply stores in the UK have it so might be the same in your neck of the woods 

I would leave it on for the psycodelic look - Groovy Baby


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

> What driver, LED, lens, and driver do you plan to use?


14.8 v battery, 4x r2's, buckpuck at 1000ma, 8 degree cree optic. Should be bright i hope


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

> That is usually the active ingredient in oven cleaner .


Does it show that I don't clean my oven often ?


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

Success!!

The oven cleaner with sodium hydoxide is perfect. I accidentally bought it in a gel liquid but it stayed in contact with the light body well enough to do the job. You could see the colour running off the light in a matter of 5 minutes and it took no more than 30 minutes and it was all done. 

The body had the dull corroded look afterwards but a minute with the dremel and polish and it was as good as new.


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## notaknob (Apr 6, 2004)

*Two or three*



glowinthedark said:


> I got around to measuring those DX optics, here is the schematic (I stole the CREE drawing and put in the numbers for the DX one)


Has anybody used these lenses? http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4626

I have a dual Cree Q5 with a Ledil # CRS-D and CRS-M. I like the combo of spot and medium flood and was trying to replicate it with DX stuff. I was thinking of a dual or triple with sku.1920 and sku.4626.


----------



## mtroy (Jun 10, 2005)

plesurnpain said:


> First of all-thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread, I wouldn't even think about doing this w/all of your hard work to point me in the(hopefully) right direction.
> I'm new to this forum and lighting. I've been looking at this thread to help me out. Maybe my thoughts can help some of the other newbies. I'm starting with something simple and inexpensive. I'm using 3 AA's for power and the cheap drivers from DX. I know there's been a few problems with these drivers and I hope this battery setup will work. So here's my list, will someone let me know if I'm headed in the right direction.
> 
> Seoul w/ Star
> ...


OK...I have been hanging, learning reading, etc. This thread is pretty amazing, especially watching the design develop over one year of posts. This shopping list above looks about right for what I was picturing.

I picked up two very nice 9 LED flashlights for 5 bucks each. Both front and rear caps unscrew and they have a lot of material in the head for good heat sink.

I basically want to end up with 2 of these on the bar with a good flood and one semi spot on the helmet. If I get near 400 combined lumens on the bars at high and another light on the helmet, I think I will be happy. I really do not need more than 3 hours run time on high (and I seldom run high all the time with the old halogens I have).

My initial thoughts were to use AAs in NiMh for cost and flexibility. I know a lot of this ties to run time and driver needs. Is there any compelling reason to go away from AAs unless I am looking for hours of use?

I hear the mention of dimmable drivers in the posts, but I don't see the ones in this shopping list being able to do that. One driver I saw listed had all these fancy strobe modes which I don't want. Perhaps this would do the trick? http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1678 Thinking of one for each light.

If I have a off-low-high setting on the bar lights, I will be happy. Should I condsider a more costly driver like a single nflex/bflex or a single buckpuck runnning both lights? I know this ties to battery choice as well AND I would like it to fit into the body of the flashlight. Not sure if the larger drivers would do this.

Probably more questions, but I am diving back in to the thread for more learning.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

> Is there any compelling reason to go away from AAs unless I am looking for hours of use?


For me, it was how fiddly they are. I like the ease of plugging a pack into the charger rather than pulling all the AA's out to put them into individual chargers. I assume others may be charging differently however as I could see the novelty of doing that wearing off quite quickly.



> Should I condsider a more costly driver like a single nflex/bflex or a single buckpuck runnning both lights?


This partly depends on how you feel your soldering skills are. A 3023 buckpuck with flying leads is much less intimidating to solder for your first light than the tiny contacts on the board you have listed.


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

*The Knuckle Duster*

Hi Guys and Girls,

This is my next stage on the MKIII which pretty closely resembles a Knuckle Duster.

I don't know whether I should keep posting this build in this thread or start a new one as it has strayed pretty far from the simple Dinotte origins. What are your thoughts?

Next step is to strip off the rest of the anodizing and grafts some more heat sinks from the rounds stock i have (that is my most hated step)

It will probably wind up being a bar light with a mix of wide and narrow optics










[


----------



## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

The Knuckle Duster! That's funny!

Salty -- How are you going to mount it?


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

p97z said:


> The Knuckle Duster! That's funny!
> 
> Salty -- How are you going to mount it?


I've been tinkering all weekend whenever weather permitted.

I ordered some of these a while ago with the plan to use them with an MCE to help transfer heat to the bars but they came in handy for this build. The MCE will have to happen later


----------



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Nice shape that Salty Would it sling under the bars .


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

troutie-mtb said:


> Nice shape that Salty Would it sling under the bars .


Good idea Troutie.

I hooked it up to see what it would look like but the cables get in the way. It would certainly be much neater if i could get the lights under the bars. Why can't someone hurry up and invent wireless brakes and shifters


----------



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Shame that ,

with a bit of rethinking that area just above the cables looks spot on


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

troutie-mtb said:


> Shame that ,
> 
> with a bit of rethinking that area just above the cables looks spot on


I need to get some larger gauge aluminium as it is all a bit flimsy and temporary at the moment but here it is in front of the bars.


----------



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

:devilerfect 2 MCE and 2 R2 spots and you are sorted :devil:

Or still room for another bank above


----------



## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Looking good there Salty!

What's that screw thing on top?


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

troutie-mtb said:


> :devilerfect 2 MCE and 2 R2 spots and you are sorted :devil:
> 
> Or still room for another bank above


Do you think there is enough cooling for MCE's? I was thinking 4 x R2's? There is always the option of RC car motor heat-sinks around the external housings I guess.

I will probably make another using the same template and mount it as a helmet light.


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

p97z said:


> Looking good there Salty!
> 
> What's that screw thing on top?


The screw thing is part of the mounting bracket (below). It holds the bracket to the knuckle duster. When i finally finish playing i will shorten the screw to neaten it up a little.


----------



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

ocean breathes salty said:


> Do you think there is enough cooling for MCE's? I was thinking 4 x R2's? There is always the option of RC car motor heat-sinks around the external housings I guess.
> 
> I will probably make another using the same template and mount it as a helmet light.


How thick is the nuckleduster plate .

I would try a 3 mm plate and as large a slug in the body then put the mce in the outside ones . I think it is a goer when moving switch off when stopped .
and also you could take a ali bracket to the mounts from between each pair for extra area .
and stability .

I have found the MCE dont make as much heat as a quad Q5/R2 .
maybe cos they are running @ 700ma


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

troutie-mtb said:


> How thick is the nuckleduster plate .
> 
> I would try a 3 mm plate and as large a slug in the body then put the mce in the outside ones . I think it is a goer when moving switch off when stopped .
> and also you could take a ali bracket to the mounts from between each pair for extra area .
> ...


The knuckle duster is 3mm thick.

The heatsink in the body is about 10mm long.

Perhaps if i run 2 x MCE in parallel off a 1000ma buck puck so they only see 500ma each, it would help to keep it cool enough but still make 550 lumen each.

Then whack one of these on it...









hmm, decisions decisions


----------



## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

*ocean breathes salty* What optics are you used? link, please 

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


----------



## neilt (Apr 7, 2007)

ocean breathes salty said:


> I've been tinkering all weekend whenever weather permitted.
> I ordered some of these a while ago with the plan to use them with an MCE to help transfer heat to the bars but they came in handy for this build. The MCE will have to happen later


When DX say these are 25mm Gun Rail Mounts, is the 25mm dimension the circular clamp part? I have oversize 31.8MM Richey bars, so would need something larger if that's the case.

Neil.


----------



## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

neilt said:


> When DX say these are 25mm Gun Rail Mounts, is the 25mm dimension the circular clamp part? I have oversize 31.8MM Richey bars, so would need something larger if that's the case.
> 
> Neil.


The internal diameter is 25mm. There is a larger size available that might go close with a little sanding.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

msxtr said:


> *ocean breathes salty* What optics are you used? link, please
> 
> Greetings - Saludos
> 
> msxtr


spot 

diffuse in the 25 degree


----------



## hootsmon (Feb 7, 2008)

ocean breathes salty said:


> Perhaps if i run 2 x MCE in parallel off a 1000ma buck puck so they only see 500ma each, it would help to keep it cool enough but still make 550 lumen each.


Nope! nope! nope!
Just run 4x MC-Es at 700mA apiece, and *strobe* them to keep 'em cool, a la disco lights! The only downside would be other road-users crashing all around you in epileptic seizures.


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

ocean breathes salty said:


> I've been tinkering all weekend whenever weather permitted.
> 
> I ordered some of these a while ago with the plan to use them with an MCE to help transfer heat to the bars but they came in handy for this build. The MCE will have to happen later


Nice work. I am very interested in those gun rail mount thingoes. I have no ability to machine metal whatsoever so they look like the business.

If you're worried about the lights shaking about I reckon you should play to your strengths and make two mount points further apart (closer to where the gun rail things clamp to the bar). This would make for a much more stable mount I reckon.

I have meant to ask, seeing as these are the DX lights how did you build them up? A "classic" Yetibetty? (I recall your first build was with a light from the local supermarket that came apart in two places, rather than just one as is the case with the DX lights).


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

glowinthedark said:


> A "classic" Yetibetty? (I recall your first build was with a light from the local supermarket that came apart in two places, rather than just one as is the case with the DX lights).


Yep, a classic yettibetty... i am now out of light bodies and end caps so that will slow me down for a while.

exploded view


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

At some point I am planning to have a crack at one of these lights using MCE's (probably when the Ledil Boom reflectors are available through cutter).

To investigate cooling, I ordered some RC car heat sinks

These are the version for the "280 motor" and are just about a perfect fit for a DX chepo light body. They are made out of aluminium and are quite soft so mould easily around just about any diameter pipe (within reason).

I haven't quite decided what to do with them yet but i am sure they will come in handy.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

:yesnod:Hell Salty That is looking soooooo good It would be a criminal act not to put MCE s in the ends . YOU HAVE TO :yesnod:

Absolutly deffinatly no ifs no buts YES Do It please :thumbsup:
Booms must be shipping soon 

any chance of including a ruler in the bottom shot

Ps this should have its own thread


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

troutie-mtb said:


> :yesnod:Hell Salty That is looking soooooo good It would be a criminal act not to put MCE s in the ends . YOU HAVE TO :yesnod:


How would you propose i drive it? With a mix of MCE's and r2's it would get difficult. Since i am planning on mounting the driver externally in a removeable case mounted to the stem... I don't really have to worry about driver size.

I only have 14.8 v batteries so what about 2 x buckpuck. 
R2's in series off 1000ma puck 1
MCE's 4s2p off puck 2



> Absolutly deffinatly no ifs no buts YES Do It please :thumbsup:
> Booms must be shipping soon


I really like the look of the booms and they should fit so maybe i will abandon the optics in favour of reflectors. I emailed mark to see if he had any further news but haven't heard anything yet.



> any chance of including a ruler in the bottom shot


Sure thing Mr T...

I always look at your famous ruler shots and think what a good idea it is, but do you think i can find a ruler when i get the camera out :madmax:










Sorry about the pic. I put away the good lens (wife's bday present that she hasn't recieved yet  )



> Ps this should have its own thread


Yeah, i sorta wasn't sure about where to post it and asked at the start of the build but didn't get any responses so just kept posting it here.


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## hootsmon (Feb 7, 2008)

Salty that is looking very stylish! Those R/C heatsinks are a good find.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Cheers Salty that is great with the ruler .

With 2 bucks a nice simple solution / 2 switches = low beam and very hi beam.

and @ 500ma each not too much heat either

2 spot lenses for the R2s and as narrow as poss for the MCE still plenty of spill 
That should be better than my triple for a bar light the R2s will fill in what is missing on mine . .

Cant wait to see the socks in action again .


now would be a good time to start Saltys MCE Duster light thread


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

*i wish it was my idea but....*



hootsmon said:


> Salty that is looking very stylish! Those R/C heatsinks are a good find.


I can't take the credit for it. It was originally rockymtnway who came up with the idea very early on in this thread. I just copied it and pony'd up the cash


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## hootsmon (Feb 7, 2008)

ocean breathes salty said:


> I can't take the credit for it. It was originally rockymtnway who came up with the idea very early on in this thread. I just copied it and pony'd up the cash


Funny you should mention that; After seeing your pics I just ordered 2 heatsinks (in a slightly larger diameter), to try out. BTW, thanks for mentioning they're flexy enough to accomodate some variation in housing diameter, as that aspect was worrying me.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

hootsmon said:


> BTW, thanks for mentioning they're flexy enough to accomodate some variation in housing diameter, as that aspect was worrying me.


It was at the front of my mind too when i ordered. I took a chance


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

troutie-mtb said:


> now would be a good time to start Saltys MCE Duster light thread


Righto,

in order to stop thread jacking, this little light has moved house:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=5103541#post5103541


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## snowhoss (Feb 18, 2007)

*Finally pulled the trigger*

After several days reading as many posts as I could I finally pulled the trigger on my first DIY LED light.

I located the 1"AL tubing from a local Lowe's along with the 3/4 copper cap.

I just ordered a CREE MC-E mounted to a star PCB along with a Luxeon L2 20 degree optic and holder.

Next I need to source the driver and I will be set. I also ordered a 25degree optic to test the beam path before I seal everything up. I plan to add this to lower the beam intensity when not needed.

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/634/682.pdf

This light will be in addition to the 250 lumen Cygolite Rover 2 I just bought. I am still uncertain on how to connect the future power supply to the light itself. I would prefer to have a tail and plug, but will cross that bridge when I get there.

One question I do have: Would the copper cap be more efficient at heat transfer or could I use a solid slug of AL in the housing? Lowe's also sells solid AL rods.

Thoughts?

James


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## TheBigYin (Sep 29, 2008)

snowhoss said:


> One question I do have: Would the copper cap be more efficient at heat transfer or could I use a solid slug of AL in the housing? Lowe's also sells solid AL rods.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> James


Well - i've been experimenting with just that. Was at a clients last week, chatting to one of the lads in engineering stores (okay - trying to blag some Alu. Tube  ) and came out with a length of 1 1/4" od, 10swg tubing (internal diameter being just under 25mm) and a chunk of 25mm solid rod. After a bit of "light persuasion" with a file and emery cloth i've now got two pieces of Alu. that "nest" quite well. The tube is actually just a tad larger in OD than the Dinotte originals (31.75mm against 28mm) but I reckon that it's pretty reasonable, and just a bit of extra "Thermal Mass". As a bye-product of using the larger tubing, I can fit the Seoul Flood optics from DX with just a light sanding to the outer, or indeed these from Kaidomain which are similar, but a bit smoother beam pattern.

I've got a good way along with the assembly so far, using the old standard drivers from DX and a bunch of Seoul stars from Kai. At the moment i've got a couple of bodies ready and waiting, 2 completed "wiring looms" ready to fit, and i'm just waiting on some plastic Tube Inserts to form the tail-end caps. Once they turn up, i'll get a photo or two on here :thumbsup:

At the moment i've "Bench Run" one of the lights with the Alu slug in place with a temporary coat of the non-setting heatsink paste and it works pretty well - without any forced airflow it heats up in a couple of minutes, all the case gets fairly uniformly warm to the touch. With a small bench fan in front of it, it ran for 3 hours last night and was pretty much at the same temperature as the control which i'd fastened by it's side, non-powered up. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## dkvick (Apr 16, 2004)

How long did you make your slug? I am thinking about doing the same build but with a cheap 9 LED torch from DX.


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## snowhoss (Feb 18, 2007)

dkvick said:


> How long did you make your slug? I am thinking about doing the same build but with a cheap 9 LED torch from DX.


 It all depends on the length of your light tube. The slug cannot be longer than the tube, remember you have the optics, star, wiring harness and driver to cram in there too. I would say if your tube is 3" long the slug could be roughly 7/8 - 1" in length and leave you enough room to fit the guts of the light in the tube too. Good luck.

James


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## TheBigYin (Sep 29, 2008)

I've stuck as near as possible to the Dinotte design, which is 28mm diameter and 56mm long for the casing. Admittedly the 1 1/4" tube was a tad oversize, but hey-it was free .

Anyway, allowing around 15mm for the optic, emitter and a small recess at the front left around 40mm to play with. The tail-end cap is probably another 10-12mm deep, so I started off with a slug around 15mm. Fortunately, the on-off switch and power socket will (hopefully) fit within the tailcap so that leaves a bit of airspace for the wiring, and room to fix the driver to the case with a spot of non-conductive thermal-epoxy.

The 15mm deep slug was in the one I bench tested last night, and after that run, I was reasonably happy. If there's plenty of room (when I finally get the end plugs to check) then I may make the slug a little deeper on the next one (possibly boring out the rear end of it to accomodate the driver - though at the moment, this seems like a lot of extra faffing around for no real advantage).


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks for all the encouragement with this thread!

Does anybody know if a BuckPuck 3023 will fit in this 1 inch housing? I'm trying to find a multi-mode (would also like flash) that works with a 7.4v lithium.

What drivers have you had luck with? Or what driver have you NOT had luck with?


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## snowhoss (Feb 18, 2007)

Quick question. What would be the best way to power the light I described above?

1 - CREE MC-E
1 - Buckpuck 1000mAh

Anyone have a DIY's for a battery pack? I assume there is no prefab AA battery holder out there. Thanks for the help. equipment should be here by the weekend. May have everything together by Monday!

James


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

I have used these 4AA holders with great success

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2120

and these connectors

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=CP-2217-ND

snowhoss -- does the buckpuck fit?


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

p97z said:


> I have used these 4AA holders with great success
> 
> http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2120
> 
> ...


I used a buckpuck in my torch builds and it fitted... just


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

snowhoss said:


> Quick question. What would be the best way to power the light I described above?
> 
> 1 - CREE MC-E
> 1 - Buckpuck 1000mAh
> ...


How is the MCE wired? Series or parallel? I am assuming series otherwise each die will only be getting 250ma. Langen in the MCE optics thread is running his MCE at 1A.

All you need to do is get enough batteries together for the Vf, although I am not sure what the Vf will be at 1A... it is about 12.x at 700ma.

You can definitely get AA holders from most electronic stores.. you are probably going to need 10 AA's (unless you are going wire parallel).

Here is an 18650 DIY holder that you might be able to refine a little


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Snowhoss
I would drop the buckpuck down to a 700ma one 
I am not sure your design will be able to handle overdriving an MCE 
far too much heat build up .


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## snowhoss (Feb 18, 2007)

P- the width of the Buckpuck is .78" which equates to 19.8mm which should mean the BP will fit! If it gets tight I might have to whip out the dremel and sand the corners down. I should be able to confirm this when I get the BP, guessing it will be shipped tomorrow and should arrive by Saturday. At that time I will post the results. So far the cost of this build is below $80. 

I have a lot of 1" AL tubing left, anyone interested in buying a length?

James


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## snowhoss (Feb 18, 2007)

troutie-mtb said:


> Snowhoss
> I would drop the buckpuck down to a 700ma one
> I am not sure your design will be able to handle overdriving an MCE
> far too much heat build up .


 If you couldn't tell I'm new at this. So the higher mAh will produce more heat?

James


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

snowhoss said:


> If you couldn't tell I'm new at this. So the higher mAh will produce more heat?
> 
> James


For sure. According to the factory spec sheet they are only rated to 700ma so you are really pushing an MCE at 1A. MCE's run hot at 700ma so you may well cook it at 1A

Stick a resistor between the ctrl/ref pins on the BP so that you are limiting the pucks output back to 700 ma as the trout suggested.


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## snowhoss (Feb 18, 2007)

ocean breathes salty said:


> For sure. According to the factory spec sheet they are only rated to 700ma so you are really pushing an MCE at 1A. MCE's run hot at 700ma so you may well cook it at 1A
> 
> Stick a resistor between the ctrl/ref pins on the BP so that you are limiting the pucks output back to 700 ma as the trout suggested.


 Learn something new everyday!


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

snowhoss said:


> Anyone have a DIY's for a battery pack? I assume there is no prefab AA battery holder out there.
> James


I use this AA battery holder for my helmet light. Battery space has a bunch of different holders.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2092


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## akatsuki (May 9, 2008)

I was just putting together a list of stuff to make one of these and ran across this 20mm triple optic which would seem to be pretty awesome for this build. I am waiting to here more details from cutter, but this seem to be better than an MC-E solution given the optics situation.


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## snowhoss (Feb 18, 2007)

ocean breathes salty said:


> How is the MCE wired? Series or parallel? I am assuming series otherwise each die will only be getting 250ma. Langen in the MCE optics thread is running his MCE at 1A.
> 
> All you need to do is get enough batteries together for the Vf, although I am not sure what the Vf will be at 1A... it is about 12.x at 700ma.
> 
> ...


 Thanks, I shot Langen a PM and asked him a few ?? about his set-up. Pick-up a resistor incase I need to back down the driver.

James


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## spackler (Jan 4, 2007)

p97z said:


> btc, I ordered some of those drivers also. For the price you can't go wrong.
> 
> smacmillin, Thanks for the tip on red led's. I had a red Lux III and tired to make a sandwich with it. I got frustrated with the sandwich (led with driver board combo) and decided to take it apart. When I took it apart I broke the red LED. In the end I used the driver for this light...
> 
> ...


The site can't be found when I click on the link for the multi mode driver. Can anyone find a new link or a similar product that works with these http://www.ledsupply.com/lxhl-lh3c.php


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Looks like that old link is gone. This is the driver that i've been using for a multi-mode.

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5313

Be careful not to go above the recommended voltage. I've blown one light by using a 7.4v battery instead of a 4AA...


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## TheBigYin (Sep 29, 2008)

Well - finally got hold of the plastic tube caps to finish my first attemt at one of these. Took 3 attempts to get a functioning version - there was a large amoung of Dremel-relieving going on to accomodate the square clicky switch and the power socket into the tailcap. In the end, it came out like this:










The click-switch would only stay in place when embalmed in a large blob of epoxy. Not a particularly elegant solution, and something that left me looking for a better mousetrap  
Still - it's a working light, and it did the job for thursday's nightride.

Anyway - I scrounged a block of Delrin and broke out the power tools. Came up with a solid delrin plug that had cut-outs just the right size to acomodate the click-switch, the rubber cover for the switch, and the power connector. This one was dropped into another body, and certainly seems far more substantial. Still needs to be finally fitted with a smear of silicon seal, but otherwise complete.










No beamshots worth posting - it's been thick with fog around here for last 2 days, and all i've been able to get is a whiteout when I switch the light on  It does work though...










Hmmm - must dust that keyboard


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## snowhoss (Feb 18, 2007)

Well, just got all the parts I need for my MC-E Dinotte light. I will begin assembly tomorrow, but I will have to wait on testing until I get my batteries. I order the batteries and charger tonight from All-Battery, 14.8v 18650 2200mAh pack w/ smart charger for $55 on their Ebay store. Should have the battery and charger by Thursday and I will be able to test the light. Will take copius pictures and will post a complete write-up with pricing as soon as I have it working.

James


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

TheBigYin -- Looks Great! How did you make the switch and end cap? 

Excellent work!


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## TheBigYin (Sep 29, 2008)

Basic plug was a 10mm slice of Delrin from a 40mm rod. this was taken down to 32mm with a bit of ingenuity and my woodworking router table. The bottom half of this was reduced in diameter to fit inside the tubing, again on the router.

The hole for the power switch was easy - 8mm hole drilled straight through the plug, as close to the edge of the inner diamter as possible. This was then opened up to 10mm to provide clearance for the back of the switch, and sunk 1mm into the back plate. Delrin is a really good material to work with - can be cut/milled with woodworking tools, hard without being brittle, and apparently it polishes up easily too - not that i've been over obsessive on that front - went for a brushed finish to contrast the polished Alu.

The difficult part was the opening for the click-switch. I was using a switch and end caps from DX, so had to make a round hole in the back plate and a square hole in the plug, with a kind of slot for the rubber cap's sealing flange to go into. It's sort of hard to describe, but obvious when you see it - i've got another to make, so i'll get photo's this time - didn't bother with this one, as I wasn't actually expecting it to come out well enough to do a "show and tell" 

Didn't look too bad though - considering my fists of ham and fingers of butter...


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## TheBigYin (Sep 29, 2008)

*Tailcap and Switch Pictures*

Made another light up this afternoon, and took a few photos whilst sorting the tailcap. None of the actual milling the tailcap with the router table... I needed both hands for the process, and can't take photo's with my feet 

I'd already done the technical bit, and bench assembled the electricals etc. plus cutting the case and plug, and fitting the optic to the case diameter. So i'd got something like this...










The soldering looks a bit fugly, but it's a good connection - low resistance etc. Also, the tailcap was straight off the router table, and needed finishing. First step was to make a hole for the power socket. This is 8mm clearance thread, with a flange of 10mm and a body that returnes to 8mm. So, I drilled a 8mm hole with one side just touching the edge of the smaller radius part of the tailcap straight through the tailcap. I then opened the inner hole to 10mm and sank the flange into the larger radius part.










Next step (after checking the fit of the socket) was to make the hole for the rubber switchcap. This needs a 14mm hole in the visible side, opening up to 16-17mm to accomodate the sealing lip. However, we actually need a square opening above the rubber tailcap, to hold the click-switch firmly. I drilled the hole from the visible side inwards, using a step-drill, giving a smaller hole on the inside of the tailcap. I then marked out and cut a square hole for the switch on the inside. That simple sentence covers around a hour of dremmeling and swearing After I was sure that the rubber cap and switch fit, I cut a slot for the sealing lip. This fits like so...










The switch then fits into the square cut-out and is secured with a dab of epoxy- but not before i'd tested things to ensure I'd not stuffed anything up!










Looks like it worked. :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:

A few more photo's of the process here.


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## akatsuki (May 9, 2008)

Okay,

I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a dealextreme order based on the list provided by notaknob. I figure I can make a bunch of lights for my wife and I pretty cheaply.

So my next question is, if I go with the list, and I want to also make some Lux III red-orange tail lights using the same methods, can someone help me out with the following questions?

1. What changes for use with the Lux III? The optic is the most obvious thing, but can I use the same driver?

2. Do I essentially hook up the front and tail in parallel? Should I get a different battery to provide the needed voltage and run-times (longer the better obviously)?

Thanks...


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## TheBigYin (Sep 29, 2008)

Personally, I can't see the point in building a rear light - the one above is a pretty close functioning copy of a dinotte 200 light engine. A original Dinotte is around £90, my copy was under £20. A rear light would probably be the same price to turn out, and for that money I can have a couple of the Smart Superflash jobs.

It's not all about the money either - the optics on the superflash are such that they can be seen from the sides as well as behind - this design is pretty much fundamentally a directional one.

Still - we don't build these things for rational reasons do we?


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

akatsuki said:


> So my next question is, if I go with the list, and I want to also make some Lux III red-orange tail lights using the same methods, can someone help me out with the following questions?
> 
> 1. What changes for use with the Lux III? The optic is the most obvious thing, but can I use the same driver?
> 
> ...


Good question on the driver...I think so, but not 100% sure. I'm still trying to figure out the LED game. The red/orange Lux III has a Vf of 2.95v. Will these simple drivers auto-regulate to that voltage? I have hooked up one of these LEDs to a 1000mA Buckpuck and it works great, but it is a more versatile driver. At $15 it's not terribly expensive, but still 8.5x more $ than the DX drivers! I actually just got a bunch of those DX drivers in the mail today...but I'm not going to sacrifice an $8 LED to see if it works  Hopefully someone will have the answer for us.

This 1400mA driver is actually a better DX driver for that LED, if you want max. brightness. The red/orange Lux III can take up to 1540mA if i recall, so this one will get you closer. But it can only take up to 4.5v, so battery choices would have to change.

These  DX 30° optics might be useful. I have some on backorder, so it may be a while before I have them in hand to review. They also may have some wider angle optics to fit the Lux IIIs, search DX for "optics". Sometimes you have to hunt through the forum questions at the bottom of the DX item pages to figure out what they'll fit.

On the wiring question, yes. Just make up a parallel "Y" cable to run both lights off one battery. Runtime calcs. will of course have to take both lights into account, so you might want a bigger mAh rating on the battery.

JZ


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## akatsuki (May 9, 2008)

TheBigYin said:


> Personally, I can't see the point in building a rear light - the one above is a pretty close functioning copy of a dinotte 200 light engine. A original Dinotte is around £90, my copy was under £20. A rear light would probably be the same price to turn out, and for that money I can have a couple of the Smart Superflash jobs.
> 
> It's not all about the money either - the optics on the superflash are such that they can be seen from the sides as well as behind - this design is pretty much fundamentally a directional one.
> 
> Still - we don't build these things for rational reasons do we?


I actually am going to be using the light mostly for road riding (and sometimes on rural highways), so, frankly, I think a rear is probably more important from a visibility perspective. I know that there is a Carclo 6 x 25 Luxeon lens out there that should provide a nice wide spread, and I am thinking about putting on a thick lens on the front to create side visibility.

I just really need to figure out how it all fits together in a multiple light system. For example, if I want to run dual fronts and a rear, what do I need for that? I have almost zero knowledge of circuit design, so it is pretty tough to understand whether it makes more sense to connect things in series or parallel, and how to go about doing it. I chose this project as an intro to it just because the assembly seemed relatively simple.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

TheBigYin - Thanks for posting and keeping us up to date. You did an excellent job!


All this talk about making a tail light has got me thinking... What are you guys using for a multi-mode driver? I want to make a red/orange tail light but I would also like flash mode. Anybody know of a good driver? I would also like to run it off of a 7.4V battery...

Thanks!


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## rayhead00 (Oct 29, 2008)

I've been planning a tail light for my rode/commuter bike also. My intention are to modify a seatpost so that some cells will slide inside, through the bottom, and power the light.

First I need to find a donor seat post...and figure out a SAFE way to modify it.
maybe I'll fix some cells to the bottom of the saddle?

Second, depending how many cells I can cram up a seat post, design a circuit for the light.

I'm with you p97z, I want a flashing mode...don't some torch head come with that?


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## akatsuki (May 9, 2008)

rayhead00 said:


> I've been planning a tail light for my rode/commuter bike also. My intention are to modify a seatpost so that some cells will slide inside, through the bottom, and power the light.
> 
> First I need to find a donor seat post...and figure out a SAFE way to modify it.
> maybe I'll fix some cells to the bottom of the saddle?
> ...


I was planning on mounting the battery pack under my saddle and maybe modding the saddle to incorporate the tail lights. As for the seat post thing, I think it is a good idea assuming you have charging capability wherever you keep your bike, cause it would be a pain to have to pull it out every time to charge.

EDIT- So I found this post over at bikeforums, and he is using this driver with a Lux III. Seems to be a bit more limited in acceptable voltage, but the driver is quite a bit cheaper than the one being used in the list I referenced above.


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## rayhead00 (Oct 29, 2008)

I was planning on having a charging station right where I hang up my bike for the night.
Currently, I hate taking off all my lights, putting them in my pocket, just to run into the store or something. So my dream is to integrate a very powerful lighting system on the bike...eliminating theft problems. 
Maybe I should be shopping for a Dyno hub.


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## akatsuki (May 9, 2008)

rayhead00 said:


> I was planning on having a charging station right where I hang up my bike for the night.
> Currently, I hate taking off all my lights, putting them in my pocket, just to run into the store or something. So my dream is to integrate a very powerful lighting system on the bike...eliminating theft problems.
> Maybe I should be shopping for a Dyno hub.


Dynohubs are pretty damn pricey in general... I actually thought that it would have been cool if Shimano had offered a battery seatpost for their electronic DA system, but the charging issue definitely would be a problem, unless you were willing to take your seatpost with you (and deal with the grease).

I have seriously given consideration to drilling my stem to mount the driver and light switches and handlebars and seatpost to mount lights internally, but I am too afraid of introducing structural weakness. I'd be more inclined to chance it on the saddle... Another option, if you want your battery pack to be concealed, is to take and mod a frame mounted bicycle pump into a battery pack.

As for the lights, why don't you just mount them permanently with one-way screws? You will have to drill out the screws to ever take them off, but, that is really not a big deal.


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## rayhead00 (Oct 29, 2008)

Thanks akatsuki
TWO awsome ideas; one way screws and batteries inside of a pump.

My idea with the batteries inside the seat post includes an external plug or socket for easy/tool free charging.


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## coombs (Jun 22, 2005)

Hey BigYin,
What power socket size (is that from radio shack?) and power cable are you using. My cables are home-made and look a little ratty. Thanks.


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## TheBigYin (Sep 29, 2008)

coombs said:


> Hey BigYin,
> What power socket size (is that from radio shack?) and power cable are you using. My cables are home-made and look a little ratty. Thanks.


It's a dc panel socket from Maplin. I've used them because they are the same connectors as on my old Electron lights . Another way of tidying up lights is to have a "flying socket" on the light and a lead and plug on the battery cable. One easy way to source made-up bits for this is to buy an extension lead - plug one end, socket the other. Simply Cut the socket off and wire into the light, and attach the cut end of the cable to your battery pack.

Radio shack versions - Panel Socket and Line Plug :thumbsup:


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## Morryjg (Sep 27, 2005)

Has anyone tried to mod this light from DX? Both ends are removable and it comes with a bar mount. Although, it wouldn't fit the new larger dia. bars.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14592


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## txn (Oct 4, 2005)

Looks veeeeerrrrryyy similar to the one I modified a few pages back.


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## sxr-racer (Nov 17, 2005)

that mount is a joke. Would not fool with it.


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

sxr-racer said:


> that mount is a joke. Would not fool with it.


I've been using that mount for over a year. Yes, it's flimsy and it looks like it can open too easily and the light fall out, but I just wrapped an o-ring around the light and the mount and it has been fine.

Tim


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## mtroy (Jun 10, 2005)

Morryjg said:


> Has anyone tried to mod this light from DX? Both ends are removable and it comes with a bar mount. Although, it wouldn't fit the new larger dia. bars.
> 
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14592


I am in the process of modding that exact light, but I picked it up locally. I like the extra material in the removeable head piece.


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## thaphillips (Sep 1, 2007)

What type of soldering gun are you guys using? I can't seem to find anything with a tip small enough to solder to my driver.


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

You need a low watt soldering iron (not a high wattage gun) available from places like radioshack.


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## TheBigYin (Sep 29, 2008)

one of these, and a selection of tips, depending on how fiddly the job is.


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## thaphillips (Sep 1, 2007)

Okay thanks for the info on the soldering gun. I got the wires soldered to the LED, now i have two pre attached leads on the driver. Do these leads go to the led or the battery? And where do I solder the other leads on the driver?


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## TheBigYin (Sep 29, 2008)

Well, presuming you're using one of those flashlight drivers from DealExtreme / Kaidomain that look like this :










the red lead goes to the Led + and the black goes to Led -

the power connections go to the back of the board - centre dot is battery+ and the outer ring is battery -


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## thaphillips (Sep 1, 2007)

Thanks that was the information I needed.


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## TheBigYin (Sep 29, 2008)

no worries - all part of the service :lol:


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

Hi All.

I'm a lurker, and I'm about to embark on building a helmet light to accompany my existing homebrew (old school) halogen bar light. If I get good at this I might even build a primary light 

Anyway, first off, tell me if I've got my sums wrong:

I was thinking of a 18650 battery (3.6v, 2500mAh), and one of these drivers:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1885

to drive a Q5 emitter at ~ 1a.

my maths may be shakey (or worse, my comprehension!), but I reckon this means I'll get over two hours life out of a single battery.

This seems loads for such a wee battery. am I missing something?

Then, the final question....optics.

I'm using the deal extreme torch as a housing, and I guess with various approaches to butchering, I'll have either a 20mm, 23mm or 24mm aperture.

How do I locate a good optic? Any suggestions.

Finally, a real noob question this, but what is the difference between having he emitter on a 'star' as opposed to the alternative (seem to be a few on round bases on DX)

Thanks for your help,

Leon


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## TheBigYin (Sep 29, 2008)

Driver board looks okay - I think its pretty much the only 1000ma driver board that DX do, pity they only do them 10 at a time!

Have to say, the difference between driving a Q5 at 800ma using DX 3256 is minimal, but it makes quite a difference in terms of heat to disperse. And last order i made of the 3256's had the leads to the led pre-soldered - an advantage if, like me, you're not exactly red hot with a soldering iron.

Main advantage of having the emitter on a star is that it's a damn sight less fiddly to solder to than either the small round bases (made to fit inside flashlight pills) or onto the bare emitters. Also has the advantage that you can screw the star down onto its heatsink rather than a permanent fix with thermal epoxy. So, when in a years time, they release the next generation emitter you can swap them out with ease.

As far as optics - DX only seem to have one named Cree optic, a rather nice narrow spot beam, just the ticket for a helmet lamp. I'm still waiting for a bunch of optics from Cutter, so can't give any opinion on their performance, but they do advertise a decent range (wouldn't like to say they necessarily STOCK them  )

Your maths seems about right regarding the battery - i'd say nearer the 2 hours, allowing for the losses in the driver board. Those 18650 batteries are really very energy-dense - one is pretty much the equivalent of 3xAA NiMh rechargeables.

Oh - and 2 more things...

Have Fun 

and

Post Build Photos


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Another alternative 
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15335

But then, there is no fun of building it yourself...


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

LeonOfBristol said:


> I was thinking of a 18650 battery (3.6v, 2500mAh), and one of these drivers:
> 
> https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1885
> 
> to drive a Q5 emitter at ~ 1a.


There are 10 in that pack. Do you want 10? There are a couple of other options, and I'd be interested if anyone else has experience with these:

1000mA 5-mode boost board (input voltage 0.9-4.5v)
 (This looks a real go-er. It has an inductor, so will boost the voltage when the cell starts to flag)









1050ma 5-mode 7135 based board (This looks the same as the 10-pack you linked to, but only one and multi-mode. So a cheaper option than a pack of 10.)









I should point out that those ACM7135 based drivers are low dropout regulators. This means the input voltage has to be 0.2V more than the forward voltage for you to get the maximum (350mA) current. Once it falls below this threshold there will be a rapid drop off in output (could be a good thing). More than you would see with direct drive.

(Have I read that spec sheet right? This is new to me too)

It looks like Li Ion batteries have a very flat discharge curve so it depends what the forward voltage of your LED is. Some on these forums were reporting R2 emitters with forward voltages of 3.4, but I don't know about Q5 bin emitters.



LeonOfBristol said:


> I'm using the deal extreme torch as a housing, and I guess with various approaches to butchering, I'll have either a 20mm, 23mm or 24mm aperture.
> 
> How do I locate a good optic? Any suggestions.


Definitely worth just getting the DX optics. They are so cheap and if you don't like them you can always order something from cutter, or try scuffing them a little to give more flood etc. Earlier in the thread I posted some measurements of their physical dimensions.

Good luck and report back on the progress so we can all learn more.

:thumbsup:


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

glowinthedark said:


> Good luck and report back on the progress so we can all learn more.
> 
> :thumbsup:


Thanks for all the responses. It will be all talk for a few weeks I think. DX aren't fast at the best of time, let alone postage over Christmas. Lot's of paper work I think.

You're right, I don't really want 10 drivers, although if these work well I may make a few for some friends. Or Christmas presents for next year 

Glad to hear my maths isn't completely screwy. I mean, it's a simple calc but I couldn't believe I could get ~200 lumins, for ~2hrs, off one teeny lickle battery! Of course, the reality may be somewhat different!


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

glowinthedark said:


> 1000mA 5-mode boost board (input voltage 0.9-4.5v)
> (This looks a real go-er. It has an inductor, so will boost the voltage when the cell starts to flag)


So I had a read, and I think the LDO may give me problems with a single 3.7v cell. Certainly seems a bit too close for comfort with an R2 or a Q5.

Looking at the one you found and I've quoted, there's a thread on there where some guy in russia has done some testing on it. Seems to kick out a solid 3.6v even with a couple of AA's running at about 2.4v, so it looks as though my single cell will never go low enough to affect the light output (well, until it stops completely  )

Now another noob question - how fragile are these stars? And what happens if the heat isn't dissipated well enough?

I'm wondering if I should buy 3 emitters just in case, then I can make some extra lights if it all goes ok. It's a toss up between spending loads of cash, and not having to keep waiting for extra parts

Leon


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

LeonOfBristol said:


> Now another noob question - how fragile are these stars? And what happens if the heat isn't dissipated well enough?
> 
> I'm wondering if I should buy 3 emitters just in case, then I can make some extra lights if it all goes ok. It's a toss up between spending loads of cash, and not having to keep waiting for extra parts


The actual stars themselves are just a flat disc of Al so they are pretty rugged. The LED's are pretty durable too provided you don't put any undue mechanical pressure on the LED dome.

I am sure you will find extra uses for more emitters if you order extras though


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

LeonOfBristol said:


> Now another noob question - how fragile are these stars? And what happens if the heat isn't dissipated well enough?
> 
> I'm wondering if I should buy 3 emitters just in case, then I can make some extra lights if it all goes ok. It's a toss up between spending loads of cash, and not having to keep waiting for extra parts


The actual stars themselves are just a flat disc of Al so they are pretty rugged. The LED's are pretty durable too provided you don't put any undue mechanical pressure on the LED dome.

I am sure you will find extra uses for more emitters if you order extras though 

edit: Excess heat will cause the LED to dim. Too much heat and they go pop. Hence why the thermal pathways used in this thread aim to take heat from the LED to the outer casing.


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

ok, this is how my shopping basket looks at the mo.

I've got the housing already (the cheapo DX torches), and I haven't thought about the switch or battery connector yet, and I know I'll have to make some sort of heatsink, but is there anything else I've missed?


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

LeonOfBristol said:


> ok, this is how my shopping basket looks at the mo.
> 
> I've got the housing already (the cheapo DX torches), and I haven't thought about the switch or battery connector yet, and I know I'll have to make some sort of heatsink, but is there anything else I've missed?


The list looks perfect... They are nice optics.

For simple on/off, you can use the switch that comes in the torches.

I don't know about DX R2's, but those shipping from cutter have a relatively low Vf... mine were about 3.2 so that is even more favorable for a single cell power source.


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

ocean breathes salty said:


> The list looks perfect... They are nice optics.
> 
> For simple on/off, you can use the switch that comes in the torches.
> 
> I don't know about DX R2's, but those shipping from cutter have a relatively low Vf... mine were about 3.2 so that is even more favorable for a single cell power source.


Well, I was thinking about that, but if I use the switch on the light, how do I get the juice in there? I'm not sure there's room for a 18650 and a heatsink in the housing, so I was still expecting the battery to be external (although it does seem ridiculous to have a single cell external. I suppose I could wire two in parallel for a bit more runtime)

I was thinking of replacing the built in switch with a socket of some sort, and then running a remote switch. This driver has 5 modes though, and TBH, I have no idea how that works...


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

LeonOfBristol said:


> Well, I was thinking about that, but if I use the switch on the light, how do I get the juice in there? I'm not sure there's room for a 18650 and a heatsink in the housing


Do you have a link to the torches that you used so i can visualise how much space you have to play with?



> so I was still expecting the battery to be external (although it does seem ridiculous to have a single cell external. I suppose I could wire two in parallel for a bit more runtime)


An external battery will help with weight distribution on the helmet if it is going to be a helmet light.

I studied my little torches for a long time before deciding to run the wires out the side... It didn't look quite so odd when they were mounted side by side. For a single torch build, it would probably look neater if it was coming out of the tail with an inline switch as you suggest.


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

I have these:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3206

Which were the ones someone (you?) was using on this thread I think.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

LeonOfBristol said:


> I have these:
> 
> https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3206
> 
> Which were the ones someone (you?) was using on this thread I think.


Yep, those are the ones i used.

I just stuck an 18650 inside for reference and there is no way that an LED + optic + heatsink + driver will squeeze inside the body  The 18650 is just too long.

So it will definitely be an external battery.

Repeat photo from my duster thread, but i got wires in an out of them like this....


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

So what did you do for a switch then?

Oh, and I just measured the body, and maybe this is redundent now, but I'll post it as it may be useful to someone...


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

LeonOfBristol said:


> So what did you do for a switch then?


For my early builds I wired in the switch in the tail cap and ran the wires out the side of the body. For the duster, the switch was mounted inline in a second case.

You can kinda see the side wiring here...










and here is the inline housing with 2 x buckpucks and 2x switches in it.. It is jam packed!


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

ocean breathes salty said:


> edit: Excess heat will cause the LED to dim. Too much heat and they go pop. Hence why the thermal pathways used in this thread aim to take heat from the LED to the outer casing.


Will I pop the LED if I just turn it out without heatsinking, just to check wiring? (i.e. on, "ooo that's bright", off)?


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

LeonOfBristol said:


> Will I pop the LED if I just turn it out without heatsinking, just to check wiring? (i.e. on, "ooo that's bright", off)?


No, it can be lit briefly without damage. I've run Q5s for a minute or 2 while trying out different optics, and haven't wrecked one....yet. You could screw it down to a piece of metal as a temporary heatsinkif you wanted to run it longer.

JZ


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

LeonOfBristol said:


> Will I pop the LED if I just turn it out without heatsinking, just to check wiring? (i.e. on, "ooo that's bright", off)?


Try to resist the urge to be looking directly at it when you first fire it up... you see stars for quite some time


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

maybe I should dig out one of those solar eclipse shields.

The only thing I'm going to be squinting at for some time is the end of the street, looking for the postman with my DX package!


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## G_Mozz (Sep 4, 2008)

Hi Guys,

In answer to a Vf comment a few posts back, I just did some measurements of a Cutter R2 and a DX R2 two nights ago.

Running both at 1005mA I couldn't really notice any immediately discernible brightness difference. 

The Cutter R2 had a Vf of 3.3V, the DX R2 had a Vf of 3.7V.

Hope that helps.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

G_Mozz said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> In answer to a Vf comment a few posts back, I just did some measurements of a Cutter R2 and a DX R2 two nights ago.
> 
> ...


Very useful, thank you for the update. I will keep getting my R2's from cutter in that case.


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## notaknob (Apr 6, 2004)

*probably better but still*



ocean breathes salty said:


> Very useful, thank you for the update. I will keep getting my R2's from cutter in that case.


I replaced a driver on a light yesterday and checked the Vf of a DX R2 and it came out at 3.1 @800ma. I checked it a few times and it was consistent.


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

With my BuckPucks and big batteries, I'll stick with the cheaper LEDs (and equally slow, but free, shipping) from DX.  Thanks for the Vf testing G_Mozz.

A question on testing: When testing a possibly defective BuckPuck and Luxeon III (the LED was bad) I hooked the meter up parallel (across the output leads (with LED attached of course)) to measure the voltage. I assume that's the correct method...it worked. How about when measuring current? Same setup, or should the meter be in series with the LED? Thanks.

JZ


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

ocean breathes salty said:


> Very useful, thank you for the update. I will keep getting my R2's from cutter in that case.


Hmm. So much to learn. I didn't realise there were differences depending on where you bought the LED's from. What causes this?


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## G_Mozz (Sep 4, 2008)

Leon,

Yes that is an interesting question, because in my book a Cree XR-E R2 bin led should have the same specifications regardless of where you buy it from. 

It does make one wonder if they do infact come out of the same factory???

That said, if the brightness is approximately the same, if you can absorb the extra Vf then I would be going the cheaper version every time. In my case per R2 led, it's approx AUS$11shipped (DX) vs AUS$17+shipping (Cutter).


Cheers


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

G_Mozz said:


> Yes that is an interesting question, because in my book a Cree XR-E R2 bin led should have the same specifications regardless of where you buy it from.
> 
> Cheers


I don't know the answer as to why it happens, but i suspect that it may have something to do with what generation of emmitter is being sold. I believe the original R2's from cutter also showed 3.7v however the newer emitters are now showing less. Perhaps DX can do good prices because they bought older stock that cree was trying to move??


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## Calina (Apr 8, 2008)

If I read correctly what notaknob is saying in his post #675, DX's R2 now have a low Vf too.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

Calina said:


> If I read correctly what notaknob is saying in his post #675, DX's R2 now have a low Vf too.


Oops, I lost post 675 over the page. I was refering to 673... so the DX lottery continues


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

ocean breathes salty said:


> Oops, I lost post 675 over the page. I was refering to 673... so the DX lottery continues


Oops, missed that. I'll stick a multimeter on mine when I get them (3 on order from DX), and report back.


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

Calina said:


> If I read correctly what notaknob is saying in his post #675, DX's R2 now have a low Vf too.


With all the talk of Vf on this and several other threads, I checked one of my Q5s from DX last night (the ones on the "premium" black 20mm stars). Hooked up to a buckpuck (edit: 1000mA) and a partially discharged 12v NiCad, I read 3.33v. I haven't checked the ones on the 16mm white round boards yet.

JZ


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## G_Mozz (Sep 4, 2008)

Remember when quoting a Vf you also need to list current they are being driven at as this will vary the Vf.

Cheers


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

Ah, I had no idea it changed with the current. It was at 1000mA (edited above). 

So...is that lower than normal for a Q5, or typical at 1000mA? 

JZ


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

What would be very interesting would be if someone could test the brightness - are the ones that have a larger Vf brighter, or just less efficient?


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## G_Mozz (Sep 4, 2008)

I didn't notice any difference in brightness between my 3.2 Vf's & 3.7 Vf's, so i'd just say it comes down to efficiency.

Current plays a big part, just noticed my 3.7 Vf @ 1005mA drops down to 3.4 Vf at 500mA.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

G_Mozz said:


> I didn't notice any difference in brightness between my 3.2 Vf's & 3.7 Vf's, so i'd just say it comes down to efficiency.
> 
> Current plays a big part, just noticed my 3.7 Vf @ 1005mA drops down to 3.4 Vf at 500mA.


The classification system for the LED's has them binned by colour and brightness. So i guess it makes sense that R2's will give more or less the same output even if the Vf is different since that is how they got in that bin in the first place.

The real win is with the extended run times that comes with the increase efficiency.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

ocean breathes salty said:


> The classification system for the LED's has them binned by colour and brightness. So i guess it makes sense that R2's will give more or less the same output even if the Vf is different since that is how they got in that bin in the first place.
> 
> The real win is with the extended run times that comes with the increase efficiency.


They quote minimum lumens and power ratings at 350mA. 
This roadmap seems to be hard to find now... single die efficiency gains have slowed but we do have MC-Es to keep us happy
If R2s were [email protected] and are now 3.3V they are probably R3s. Welight alluded to this in a post a while back.


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## SkUG (Feb 19, 2008)

znomit said:


>


Where do the XR-E MC-E p7 etc come into this? I'm becoming rather confused!


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

The M bin MC-E is rated at 430lumens at 350ma. That is 107.5 lumens per die at 350 ma. The Cree XP-E uses the same bins and is now available in R2. Its also a lot cheaper than the XR-E because its only rated to 700ma. Seems like the XP-E might be the way to go now.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

SkUG said:


> p7


and the p7 isn't made by cree. It is made by seoul and they have a completely different binning system that i know nothing about


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## SkUG (Feb 19, 2008)

Can someone do a graphy graph with all different brands Lumens per watt etc?


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## Calina (Apr 8, 2008)

SkUG said:


> Can someone do a graphy graph with all different brands Lumens per watt etc?


There you go : http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=156772


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

Ok, maybe I'm missing something here.

The P7 looks like it can output up to about 8 times what a Cree X-Lamp does at 350ma, and when I look at the Vf chart, it is similair.

This can't be right, can it? If I can get 2hours is out of an 18650 battery on a single P7, why would anyone use an R2?

Can someone help me out on this??


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

LeonOfBristol said:


> Ok, maybe I'm missing something here.
> 
> The P7 looks like it can output up to about 8 times what a Cree X-Lamp does at 350ma, and when I look at the Vf chart, it is similair.
> 
> ...


The historic reason is that 2.8 amp drivers haven't been available for all that long. To the best of my understanding, the p7 doesn't have individually addressable dies. You are forced to run it as 4P and most of the drivers that are around for it are for torches with a max Vin toping out around 8 V (not much good on 14.8v packs). There is a quality driver for p7/MCE coming shortly called the hipflex. It will be the mother of all drivers and will probably see a lot more people making p7 lights.

Using a single cell in direct drive the light dims as the battery drains which can be frustrating.

There are also heat implications from a 4 die design in a small housing so you need to make sure you have a very good thermal pathway.

They are also considered a flood monster and there aren't any readily available optics to get a nice beam pattern as far as i am aware. They are even harder to focus than the MCE since the overall die surface area is larger than the MCE.

I am sure there are other reasons but i can't think of them at this point.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

Just a quick update on my MKII which I am selling to a friend for the cost of the parts. The original mount for my helmet wasn't even close to fitting so I have designed a new mount. This gives quite a bit of adjustability and will work with his oddly shaped helmet which seems to have vents and structural bars in all the wrong places 




























So why do all my lights end up looking like Pixar characters?


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## mtroy (Jun 10, 2005)

Well, I finished my first light build just before I needed to head off to a late night at work, but, the light works! It works. Amazing.

So, I will likely post pics in a new thread since it kinda got out of the Dinotte style and used two flashlight bodies, but I wanted to thank all who added good info and who went bravely before me so I could learn from them.

Funny, I am already thinking how to improve it. Sigh:madman:


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

Re: 1000mA 5-mode boost board (input voltage 0.9-4.5v)



LeonOfBristol said:


> So I had a read, and I think the LDO may give me problems with a single 3.7v cell. Certainly seems a bit too close for comfort with an R2 or a Q5.
> 
> Looking at the one you found and I've quoted, there's a thread on there where some guy in russia has done some testing on it. Seems to kick out a solid 3.6v even with a couple of AA's running at about 2.4v, so it looks as though my single cell will never go low enough to affect the light output (well, until it stops completely  )


Any progress? I am thinking of getting that board and I'm interested in hearing if it is any good.


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## 2calif (Dec 14, 2008)

*thinker pipes*

How about thinker pipes, folks 

Better heat sink??

Here's a 1" O.D. x 1/8" wall = 3/4" I.D. (or 19.05mm I.D.)
1ODx1/8.JPG

and

Here's a 1-1/2" O.D. x 1/4 = 1" I.D. (or 25.4mm I.D.)
1-1/2ODx1/4.JPG

and

Here's a 1-1/2 O.D. x 3/16 = 1-1/8" I.D. (or 28.56mm I.D.)
1-1/2ODx3/16.JPG

Hay p97z, what's your pipe's I.D.?


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## 2calif (Dec 14, 2008)

*Thicker pipes*

How about thicker pipes, folks

Better heat sink??

Here's a 1" O.D. x 1/8" wall = 3/4" I.D. (or 19.05mm I.D.)
1ODx1/8.JPG

and

Here's a 1-1/2" O.D. x 1/4 = 1" I.D. (or 25.4mm I.D.)
1-1/2ODx1/4.JPG

and

Here's a 1-1/2 O.D. x 3/16 = 1-1/8" I.D. (or 28.56mm I.D.)
1-1/2ODx3/16.JPG

Hay p97z, what's your pipe's I.D.?


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## super-fast (Sep 28, 2006)

The second one is in theory the best heatsink. The heat transfer through the body will be better because the thicker tubing. But by far more important is the outside surface of the light.


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

The first thing I thought of when I saw these these thick-walled pipes is that there's plenty of "meat" there for milling heat-dissipating fins. Surface area would be increased enormously, which would be great for hot leds like P7s, MC-Es, triple or quad XP-Es. It wouldn't be too hard to mill lengthwise grooves with a table saw, if you created a sled to hold the pipe so it didn't rotate. 

Where can these pipes be found? I think I've seen some heavy-walled pipe on a couple on-line metal dealers sites, but their shipping rates are always obscene.

JZ


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

JZ, have a look on ebay for "aluminium round bar", I know that it's pipe or tube that you want but it will find the shops.

I just bought enough for two lights for £8.00 (solid bar) cheap postage too.


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## 2calif (Dec 14, 2008)

What do you think would be the idea inside diameter? In another word what would be the best I.D. to use with the best ME-C lens?


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Try looking in your garage for that unused D cell Maglite

The tube is near perfect for MR11 sized optics like the ledil EVA.

And you get an anodised light at the end with a knurled finish.

And there is plenty of meat in the tail cap for creative thinking,

OD approx 39.5 mm 
ID approx 34 mm 
wall thickness approx 3.00 mm


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## 2calif (Dec 14, 2008)

troutie-mtb said:


> OD approx 39.5 mm
> ID approx 34 mm
> wall thickness approx 3.00 mm


Do you measure wall thickness on one side of the radius or two sides (cross section) combined?


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## 2calif (Dec 14, 2008)

How wide is the brass plug, p97z?


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

2calif -- The outside diameter of the copper plug is 22.13 mm
Inside is 19.65 mm

Outside of the aluminum tube is 25.40 mm
The inside of the aluminum tube is 22.22 mm


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## jimgskoop (Apr 13, 2006)

znomit said:


> Put this together over a few hrs for a local commuter who keeps blowing 3w halogen bulbs in his dyno light.
> 
> Its dynamo driven, simple rectifier circuit and smoothing capacitor, waterproof switch, Q5 cree and the cree optic from Kai.
> Housing is inch square aluminium, plastic end cap seals one end and an easy mount for the switch. Other end is an acrylic window glued in place.
> 22$NZ worth of bits. 140lm.


Znomit, what are the specs on the capacitor you used in the above light?

I just completed my first dyno-hub powered light, based heavily on your elegant design above:


















https://www.flickr.com/photos/jimg/sets/72157614980513926/ (more photos)

I used a 35V 1000uF capacitor, and I'm surprised at how much flicker I still get (see the short video at the above link). I didn't use Schottky diodes in the bridge rectifier, just plain silicon diodes -- would that have helped?

Thanks,
-Jim G


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

jimgskoop said:


> I used a 35V 1000uF capacitor, and I'm surprised at how much flicker I still get (see the short video at the above link). I didn't use Schottky diodes in the bridge rectifier, just plain silicon diodes -- would that have helped?
> 
> Thanks,
> -Jim G


Nice. :thumbsup: 
Looks like 4700uF in the photo (I can't remember), likely 16V but 10 would be fine. 
Martin says 1k to 10k 4V min .
You shouldn't notice the flicker at any reasonable speed, how fast were you turning the stand? 
The schottkys are more efficient and pretty cheap, no reason not to use them.


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## jimgskoop (Apr 13, 2006)

znomit said:


> Nice. :thumbsup:
> Looks like 4700uF in the photo (I can't remember), likely 16V but 10 would be fine.
> Martin says 1k to 10k 4V min .
> You shouldn't notice the flicker at any reasonable speed, how fast were you turning the stand?
> The schottkys are more efficient and pretty cheap, no reason not to use them.


I'm turning the wheel in the stand as fast as I can by hand. The wheel doesn't have a tire mounted on it so the hub's drag quickly slows it down. I need to mount this wheel+light onto a bike to see how it really works.

How much of a stand light do you get out of the light you built?

Thanks,
-Jim G


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## paul.oharahoke (Mar 9, 2009)

*Light parts*

I'm in Canada. Anyone know of a place to purchase these parts here?

Shipping from the US works though the duty is a killer.


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## notaknob (Apr 6, 2004)

*Why do you hate America?*



paul.oharahoke said:


> I'm in Canada. Anyone know of a place to purchase these parts here?
> 
> Shipping from the US works though the duty is a killer.


Here's my cheapo list through DealExtreme. There's a few other in this thread but it's gigananormus. The only thing you need to buy locally would be the batteries or make up something similar to MrBubbles thread and pick up the batteries/charger from DX.

They normally ship as "gift" to the US so I've never had to pay customs. Since I said that you'll be the one that gets sacked with the huge fee.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

jimgskoop said:


> I'm turning the wheel in the stand as fast as I can by hand. The wheel doesn't have a tire mounted on it so the hub's drag quickly slows it down. I need to mount this wheel+light onto a bike to see how it really works.
> 
> How much of a stand light do you get out of the light you built?
> 
> ...


Yeah the wheels don't have much angular momentum so slow down quickly, especially without a tyre. You won't know how well it works until you're out riding.
This design has no standlight to speak of, you might see a faint glow. You need a supercap for a standlight... some ideas here. Mine works ok but I run a blinky too.


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## paul.oharahoke (Mar 9, 2009)

*No hate here*

Nah, Not a US hater.

Just looking to save some bucks. With the US/Canadian currency difference + Duty + shipping stuff gets expensive quickly.

Not to mention this is my first light and if I blow it up I don't want it to cost me a bundle.

I just noticed Luxeon us Canadian so I can order from them directly.

Does anyone know what lens will work with the Luxeon Endor 7007-PWC-08-3 Rebel Star Tri LED? It puts out 435 Lumens at 700mA.


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

ledSupply.com has an optic for that triple, but it's kind of a wide beam, as I recall. They ship really fast. This thread describes a project using it.

FWIW, everything I've purchased through the DX website has arrived (eventually  ) marked as "gift", with no import duties charged  I'm in the US.....I don't know how those sort of things work in Canada though.

JZ


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

Beware with DX. It's been mentioned before, but they are SLOOOOOWWWWWW. I finally got the last bits of my order through the other week - the order I placed back in November (look back through the thread). Of course, I can't remember anymore what I was going to do!! Back to the drawing board...


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

LeonOfBristol said:


> Beware with DX. It's been mentioned before, but they are SLOOOOOWWWWWW. I finally got the last bits of my order through the other week - the order I placed back in November (look back through the thread). Of course, I can't remember anymore what I was going to do!! Back to the drawing board...


lol that its ridiculous 5 month to ship? they joke and people just let go. 
they must have a lot of costumers worlwide so why not improve the speed of handling? 
Oh boy I've just ordered some batteries and charger from DX guess I'll have to wait a lot power the project.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

LeonOfBristol said:


> Beware with DX. It's been mentioned before, but they are SLOOOOOWWWWWW. I finally got the last bits of my order through the other week - the order I placed back in November (look back through the thread). Of course, I can't remember anymore what I was going to do!! Back to the drawing board...


Wow, that is pretty darn slow. The worst part is that the days are getting longer and you don't really need lights at the moment either.


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## jimgskoop (Apr 13, 2006)

jimgskoop said:


>


And here's a battery-powered version...


















4xAA NiMH, Q5 Cree, DX 800mA driver, DX Cree optic.

3" length of inch-square tubing, cut at a 45-degree angle at the end to make a glare shield. Plastic end-cap from the hardware store seals up the other end. Cree is mounted on a solid square aluminum slug, threaded for an M5 screw, which fastens everything together from the bottom, similar to my previous light. Handlebar mount is from an old Vistalite set.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Nice.

I just finished this using an XPE triple. 
Dynamo driven but the tubing is a perfect fit for a buckpuck.
The light exits the side so there is a lot of frontal area for cooling.


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## jimgskoop (Apr 13, 2006)

znomit said:


> Nice.
> 
> I just finished this using an XPE triple.
> Dynamo driven but the tubing is a perfect fit for a buckpuck.
> The light exits the side so there is a lot of frontal area for cooling.


Excellent -- I never would've thought to mount the LED sideways like that! How'd you drill the hole for the optic -- big bit in a drill press?


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

znomit said:


> I just finished this using an XPE triple.


Nice. I've been thinking about doing the same with three (or more) XR-Es in a row.

Did you add a layer of aluminum inside the 1" tubing?

JZ


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

JimZinVT said:


> Nice. I've been thinking about doing the same with three (or more) XR-Es in a row.
> 
> Did you add a layer of aluminum inside the 1" tubing?
> 
> JZ


No, its a single piece. Mounting direct to the tube means one less thermal junction. 
Its a dyno light so I don't need any significant mass to store the heat as I'm always moving when the light is on. Will do a full build report in the dyno thread when I get time.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

I hacked apart a freebie flashlight to make a single MC-E light driven by a bFlex. It actually works, and is the size of a roll of twonies. It belongs in the fuglies for sure [JB Weld FTW].

edit: I used it this morning on the ride in, and it didn't flicker off or anything like that. The sun had been up for an hour already, so there wasn't much to see. Tonight will be a better test.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Post a picture! Let's see it!


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## Itess (Feb 22, 2009)

I think my idea belongs to this thread. This mount was done with kitchen torch and alumimium solder. Here is what I want to share:










More photos are there: Dinotte-style mount

That's just an idea, i am not going to make this light right now, it's an experiment to prove the concept. 
I was thinking here about heatsinking into the bar. Looks like it can workout.I definitely need more powerful torch


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## britboy36 (Oct 1, 2006)

*If you were to bulid the light today.....*

what components would you use vs back in '08?

The basic design and housing still look the coolest out there, just wondered what the latest and greatest "guts" you would recommend? Below is the original BOM...any updated lists from recent builds would be great! Thanks for the help!!

You can add or subtract components from the list below.

Seoul LED $6.00 
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445
Holder + Optic $2.00
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php
Optic
http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php

Driver $21.50
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=961{1}2{2}2{7}5
Battery $19.99 
https://www.all-battery.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=1143
Charger $22.95
https://www.all-battery.com/index.as...ROD&ProdID=478
Coupon for 20% off all-battery
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho....php?p=2102809
Adhesive $6.80
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...roducts_id=171
Copper Slug $3.50
Aluminum 4 Foot $9.99

Total (-wire and connector) $92.74
You'll get well over 3 hrs runtime.


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

*Finally finished my first light!*

Phew! Finally finished my first light. Well .. I have one light already, but a bloke at work machined it for me, and I direct drive it from 3xAA NiMH pack:








so I don't really count it.

This one I made for a mate for his commute to work. Here is the final product








Here you can see it beside the donor torch it came from








I trimmed about 10mm from the front. There is still heaps of room inside, but I needed to be able to use this mount from DX (that is what the customer wanted ... not my choice) so it was easier to keep it long, plus it would look unbalanced cut much shorter.

The inside of the torch is a CREE R2 from dealextreme with a 5-mode driver from DX. That driver claims a range of 0.9-4.5V, but I am using a 4xAA NiMH pack. So far so good.

The lens is from DX. The lens holder was a little too large to fit inside the torch body, so I sanded some off. To achieve this I put it in my drill (which I clamped lightly in my vice) and spun it up while holding some sandpaper to the outside. Worked a charm.

I used the same method to reduce the diameter of the heatsink (this was an old part I scrounged from work)









Another side on shot with some AA batteries for scale









I used a DC barrel plug with lead that I scrounged from work and a DC panel socket. That socket was completely not waterproof, in fact it has massive holes in it, so a little silicon was in order ...










I used Artic Silver to get a better thermal contact from the heatsink to the torch body (but I screwed the emitter to the heatsink) and I also used some silicon on the front to make sure it was fairly watertight










Overall I am pretty happy with the result. Next one I make with this torch body design (for another friend for his commuter bike) I will use a flying lead. The DC plug was way too much work to waterproof and I'm not interested in paying mega bucks for waterproof connectors. All up this was $37 Australian pesos (about US$25 or 17 pounds sterling), not including the NiMH cells.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

glowinthedark -- Wow! That looks nice! Keep up the good work!


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Itess -- Interesting idea... I'll bet it will work great! I see you sanded it to make it mold into the housing... creative!! I like it!


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## Calina (Apr 8, 2008)

What was the original diameter of the lens and how much did you have to remove?


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

Calina said:


> What was the original diameter of the lens and how much did you have to remove?


It was the lens holder that I sanded down a bit. I posted a schematic for the dimensions of these optics, which show the OD of the lens holder as 23.23mm. I could measure the ID of the tube (from another flashlight of the same make that I will also convert to a bike light) but I don't have it with me. I would guess that I took less than 1mm off the diameter.

As I thought might happen, the cheap DX mount has already broken. Thankfully it is only the quick release bit. I have advised the bloke I made it for to glue those bits together and just pull the light out of the soft jaws of the mount when he wants to remove it.

I told him it wasn't a good way to mount it ...

I am about to build up a light based on those tiny pill containers/geocaches. Should be good!


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## HuffyPuffy (Jun 9, 2008)

glowinthedark said:


> I am about to build up a light based on those tiny pill containers/geocaches. Should be good!


I hope you make a new post for your build of those lights. I have seen a few threads where people discuss using them, but so far no builds, which is a shame because if they work out it will be very cool.


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## glowinthedark (Jul 8, 2008)

HuffyPuffy said:


> I hope you make a new post for your build of those lights. I have seen a few threads where people discuss using them, but so far no builds, which is a shame because if they work out it will be very cool.


Sure will. I'm just mulling over the strategy at the moment. There are a couple of options to how to do it and with my limited tools/ability I am trying to figure out the best method.


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## Itess (Feb 22, 2009)

Itess said:


> That's just an idea, i am not going to make this light right now, it's an experiment to prove the concept.
> I was thinking here about heatsinking into the bar. Looks like it can workout.I definitely need more powerful torch


I was wrong  I had a spare XR-E R2 and being today sick I decided to spend my time for this workpiece. It's not finished yet, it misses a tailcap. Sorry for crappy photos, they are from my old powershot a70.










More photos are here


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

*** EDIT **** - Post #37 answers all my questions.


Hello again everyone. I'm suddenly enthused again to start putting together the lights from the stuff it took DX 5 months to deliver. I'm pretty sure now how it will all work mechanically, so the question now is how to wire it all up. I thought this would be the easy bit, but looking at the drivers I've got, I have to admit I don't know what's what.

There are 2 leads already attached (+ve and -ve), am I supposed to build a circuit with the lamp and battery in series with the driver?


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

Hi again,

I'd like some peoples opinions on my design.

The idea is to have the headunit, made from a couple of torches, with the driver and led, and a flylead out the back.

The fly lead connects to a unit with the battery housing, a SPST switch for on-off, and a momentary switch in series to swtich the modes.

I was thinking with this design, I could run the same base unit, and just add another headunit (as the driver is in each headunit). Is this dumb?

I was also trying to figure out if I needed two switches, but I couldn't find a momentary switch that has some sort of forced off mode (am I just missing something?).


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

No reason why you cant run two lightheads with their own drivers off one battery. I do it with my 2 x XR-E helmet light, only difference is my two "lightheads" are actually in the same housing.

Not sure about switching modes on both drivers simultaneously (mine are single mode, and switched individually) but it _seems_ like it would be OK.....all you need is a brief interruption of power to switch modes, so why not?

Ordering from DX is always an exercise in patience. But I've never had it go anywhere near that long! You may have the record :thumbsup:

JZ


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## dsjc (May 14, 2007)

*helmet mount Dinotte using cateye mount*

Yet another Dinotte style creation for use on the helmet with the ability to easily move to the bars using Cateye mounts.

- XRE R2 WC, star AA mounted on 3/8" Al slug
- 800ma driver, 3-9v input range, single mode, AA mounted on 1/4" Al slug
- one or two serial 18650 2500mah cells in the camelback using my custom holder
- DX 1920 optic, lathed to fit using a drill motor and razor blade
- cateye helmet mount with piece of 1-1/4" PVC with rubber coating as a base
- trail-tech connectors, and inline switch is used optionally
- 26g TFTE wire
- plastic cap and strain relief from the local hardware store

Very simple, cheap, and good output without driving the emitter too hard. Runs consistent at 800ma and low temps with any slight air movement.










pre-polishing


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## SAVAGESAM (Jan 14, 2008)

How to ask this question. Dollar for dollar, how much more light are you guys getting compared to buying "off the shelf"? BTW I LOVE the ingenuity. Congrats to all of you.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

SAVAGESAM said:


> How to ask this question. Dollar for dollar, how much more light are you guys getting compared to buying "off the shelf"? BTW I LOVE the ingenuity. Congrats to all of you.


Depends on which shelf.
Also depends on what your time is worth.
I coughed up for a nightlightning housing because I couldn't justify spending a day making one last winter when they were only 60US$, but when I have spare time building lights is better than sitting in front of the telly. 
Last light was probably a day and under 80USD, 500lm, driven off the dyno.


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## Itess (Feb 22, 2009)

SAVAGESAM said:


> How to ask this question. Dollar for dollar, how much more light are you guys getting compared to buying "off the shelf"? BTW I LOVE the ingenuity. Congrats to all of you.


Speaking of my last Dinotte-style, total cost of electronics is about $12, optics is about $1, connectors are $10, then aluminium and solder are about $10 together. So, it's about $33 for ~200lm. Without powersource. Powersource is about $30 for 4*18650 with charger. And joy is invaluable


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## dsjc (May 14, 2007)

SAVAGESAM said:


> How to ask this question. Dollar for dollar, how much more light are you guys getting compared to buying "off the shelf"? BTW I LOVE the ingenuity. Congrats to all of you.


I'm not sure you can justify the building *if* you're only looking from a monetary angle. I've built three lights, a triple, double, and single R2. Those lumens from a quality manufacturer would probably cost $700-900 US if I were to buy from a retailer, but I may have spent close to that on parts, spare parts, batteries, and tools. I have enough spare material to make at least two more lights now. As for the tools, I love tools  and had most of what I needed but used this as an excuse to add a bandsaw and stationary disk/belt sander to the shop, so that was $250 alone.

Bottom line in my mind, it's a hobby, I enjoy it the process and the reward is the quality light you have in the end.


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## Stevo the Devo (Aug 26, 2006)

*What he said!*



britboy36 said:


> what components would you use vs back in '08?
> 
> The basic design and housing still look the coolest out there, just wondered what the latest and greatest "guts" you would recommend? Below is the original BOM...any updated lists from recent builds would be great! Thanks for the help!!
> 
> ...


Am wondering in particular if an MCE (and appropriate driver?) would be viable today? Any other options? Cheers, Steve


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Stevo the Devo said:


> Am wondering in particular if an MCE (and appropriate driver?) would be viable today? Any other options? Cheers, Steve


My thoughts on a Dinotte style light with an MC-E would be that you need to enlarge the housing to accept either the Ledil Iris or a Fraen reflector. I have tried the Carclo 20mm spot and the Ledil CMC SS on a single MC-E and found it to be too wide of a beam without sufficient throw for faster pieces of trail. A side benefit would be more surface area for cooler running.


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## plasticmann (May 7, 2006)

It will not win any prizes for beauty but here is my attempt at a DIY Dinotte, (square version - thanks again to p97z for original inspiration).

The plumbing end caps aren’t that easy to get in OZ so I went with a square design:

Bits:
LIGHT
25mm square ALUMINIUM tube for housing. From Bunnings
Aluminium angle for heat sink, (3mm). From Bunnings
Infamous DX 3256 driver
LEDIL square lenses from Cutter
Cree Q5 from DX
Plastic end cap from Bunnings that pushes into this size tube.
Plastic gland (for up to 6mm cable) – from JAYCAR
Basic Nylon connectors - JAYCAR
Used some 24/0.20 fig 8 cable I had lying around.

BATTERY
Used 4 x AA holder from JAYCAR and rechargeable NiMH’s.
Wacked some tube over it with a cable tie at one end. Seems to do the trick.

Nothing special in terms of putting it together.

-	cut heatsink to fit into tube.
-	Bonded star to heatsink with artic silver.
-	Solder leads from driver onto LED star.
-	Solder the cable that will connect to the battery pack to back of driver.
-	Drill hole in plastic end “plug” and attach gland.
-	Slide heat sink into back of tube and bond in place with Artic Silver. Bead of silicon on front of lense to waterproof.
-	Push end plug in back and tighten up gland.
-	Attach connector to end of fly lead.Done.


I have made two at this stage. One using a 14 degree beam for bars and one using the 6 degree real spot for helmet. I still have another 14 degree and 7 degree SS so will make two more so I can run 2 on the bars and 2 on the Helmet. Plan is to use a simple 3 way switch, (ON-OFF-ON), so I can have one light on, two on, or both off. That way I effectively have a simple low / high switch. Need to make two more lights first.

I mounted the helmet one using adhesive backed Velco, as per the Amoeba method. Battery pack attached with Velco cinch strap. The tube over the battery pack keeps it in place nicely, (grippy rubber). I have a pile of different bar clamps from DX but ended up just mounting the wide angle one using the tried and true “rubber band” cut from an old tube method, with a bit of foam under the light. Works well.


Weight 45gr for each light and 150gr for a loaded battery pack. I’ll probably migrate to LiIon camcorder batteries at some stage, (I bought quite a few for a few bucks each at a clearance a few years ago), though the NiMH work well, and from what some have said, are a better option for this driver.

Nice cheap and simple design. I’m a tad tool challenged so if I can make it anyone can. Hope it helps some of the down under DIYers.
Richard.

PS – I have never done beam shots before but will try and get some.

edit: I'll try and work out how to attach images properly.....


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

plasticmann said:


>


You need to upload your pics to the interweb somewhere so we can see them


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## plasticmann (May 7, 2006)

Yep. I certainly did something wrong. First time at trying toi attach an image. Sorry - I'll try again.


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## plasticmann (May 7, 2006)

images, (hopefully)...
light....





































battery...



















Helmet mount....



















Bar mount....


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## plasticmann (May 7, 2006)

No luck again. Sorry.

Any quick pointers as to how to post images greatly appreciated. I uploaded images to the gallery, and I can see them there. Then in the advanced reply box I click on attach image, copy and past in the web address for the image, it seems to work but nothing shows when I "post" the post ??? I've checked FAQ and searched for image posting without much luck.

help.......


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Quite a few folks me inc use photobucket or similar , get your self an account there and upload your pics then it will give you the correct link to post on forums 

one advantage of this over the gallery here is folks dont need to be a member and log in to see your pics on your posts.


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## super-fast (Sep 28, 2006)

The pics of plasticmann:


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## plasticmann (May 7, 2006)

Thanks Superfast !!

Thanks troutie-MTB. I'll give photobucket a go.

cheers - richard.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

troutie-mtb said:


> Quite a few folks me inc use photobucket or similar , get your self an account there and upload your pics then it will give you the correct link to post on forums
> 
> one advantage of this over the gallery here is folks dont need to be a member and log in to see your pics on your posts.


I also have some pics in my gallery on mtbr that aren't mine. In some of my old threads, the pics of some of the various builds etc have changed, random pictures of other peoples bikes, their dog etc have somehow replaced stuff in my gallery :skep:


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## Pro4tundra (Mar 21, 2009)

I'm looking at building one of these lights but i am going to use the minimag led conversion kit lights. They run at 3 volts and i'm looking at building 2 of them and running them both off of a 7.4v lipo battery. Should i just use a resistor or should i use an adjustable voltage regulator?


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## chilli (Feb 8, 2010)

P97z.
I commend you on this - really nice evolution of the lights you started. This is the beauty of DIY - right!
All
I am new to the Forum and the DIY light world - did some 15 yrs ago back in India on my bike - but haven't touched current technologies yet - no pun intended! 
I've been a daily bike commuter for two seasons now - and love being on the road. Up here [seattle] we get a [nice] dark time of the year - about 3-5 months of pure-commute-in-the-dark-bliss. I soon upgraded to Dinotte's after I almost got blinded by a commuter's tail light - caught upto him and got my answers - I use a 200l headlight and the red tail light. Love the tail light - but need more lumens for the headlight. I knew I could always buy another dinotte - but then - that's no fun - is it... Google search led to LED's, which led to drivers - led to DIY dinotte- led to this forum - what can I say - am a fan. Dinotte should pay you guys for R&D. Have been reading this page for a few days [my wife thinks I am crazy] - my response was that I was going to save a bunch of bucks - no she's pretty sweet about this stuff.

I put together my list and have a few questions about power and accessories. I decided to test both the SSC and CREE's to decide which one works better for me. The list first and then questions. I think the list is compatible?

Light 1

1.	LED - SSC Z Power LED (U-Bin) https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445
2.	Optics - L2 Spot lens http://ledsupply.com/l2-op-005.php
3.	Optics - Also testing the medium lens http://ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php
4.	Holder - http://ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php
5.	Driver - 5 mode 7135 https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6190 ; single mode https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256
6.	Switch - https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5602
7.	Tailcap - orange ones https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5023

Light 2

CREE LED - https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15943
CREE Optics w holder http://ledsupply.com/247-10-lens.php
Going to test both the 5 mode and single mode Drivers - https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256
Switch and Tailcap similar to the list above.

Ordered some AA and will pick up Alum tube and copper plug this weekend.

Questions - 
1.	I want to power this with AA's - have a bunch of rechargeable AA's going upto 2700mah. How many AA's would the 5 mode driver need? How about the single mode driver?
2.	P97z - you use a nice gasket where the wire comes out from the light - what is that? You used it on the multi mode driver with the blacktailcap.

My shipment of parts should arrive some time soon...Am excited to build my own stuff. BTW, I ordered probably 2 CREE's, 2 SSC's, a red CREE, and an amber CREE - got a bit greedy - what can I say. Obviously blew my budget - but am confidant should have 4 lights atleast. I'll post some pictures when magic starts happening!!


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## chilli (Feb 8, 2010)

Hi all
Great job P97z. I commend you on this - really nice evolution of the lights you started. This is the beauty of DIY - right!
I am new to the Forum and the DIY light world - did some 15 yrs ago back in India on my bike - but haven't touched current technologies yet - no pun intended! 
I've been a daily bike commuter for two seasons now - and love being on the road. Up here [seattle] we get a [nice] dark time of the year - about 3-5 months of pure-commute-in-the-dark-bliss. I soon upgraded to Dinotte's after I almost got blinded by a commuter's tail light - caught upto him and got my answers - I use a 200l headlight and the red tail light. Love the tail light - but need more lumens for the headlight. I knew I could always buy another dinotte - but then - that's no fun - is it... Google search led to LED's, which led to drivers - led to DIY dinotte- led to this forum - what can I say - am a fan. Dinotte should pay you guys for R&D. Have been reading this page for a few days [my wife thinks I am crazy] - my response was that I was going to save a bunch of bucks - no she's pretty sweet about this stuff.

I put together my list and have a few questions about power and accessories. I decided to test both the SSC and CREE's to decide which one works better for me. The list first and then questions. I think the list is compatible?

Light 1

1.	LED - SSC Z Power LED (U-Bin) https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445
2.	Optics - L2 Spot lens http://ledsupply.com/l2-op-005.php
3.	Optics - Also testing the medium lens http://ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php
4.	Holder - http://ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php
5.	Driver - 5 mode 7135 https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6190 ; single mode https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256
6.	Switch - https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5602
7.	Tailcap - orange ones https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5023

Light 2

CREE LED - https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15943
CREE Optics w holder http://ledsupply.com/247-10-lens.php
Going to test both the 5 mode and single mode Drivers - https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256
Switch and Tailcap similar to the list above.

Ordered some AA and will pick up Alum tube and copper plug this weekend.

Questions - 
1.	I want to power this with AA's - have a bunch of rechargeable AA's going upto 2700mah. How many AA's would the 5 mode driver need? How about the single mode driver?
2.	P97z - you use a nice gasket where the wire comes out from the light - what is that? You used it on the multi mode driver with the blacktailcap.

My shipment of parts should arrive some time soon...Am excited to build my own stuff. BTW, I ordered probably 2 CREE's, 2 SSC's, a red CREE, and an amber CREE - got a bit greedy - what can I say. Obviously blew my budget - but am confidant should have 4 lights atleast. I'll post some pictures when magic starts happening!!


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## lejack (Dec 29, 2008)

hello, here is a lamp that I made for my daughter, with a cree R2 and one battery 18650


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## TheBigYin (Sep 29, 2008)

chilli said:


> snip...
> Questions -
> 1.	I want to power this with AA's - have a bunch of rechargeable AA's going upto 2700mah. How many AA's would the 5 mode driver need? How about the single mode driver?


The 5 mode is happier being driven with the 18650 batteries to be honest - with rechargeable AA's you'd probably get away with 3 batteries provided they weren't hot off the charger - max input voltage is 4.5V. The Siingle mode has a max input voltage of 9V, and i've personally made battery packs with 6xAA's and had no problems with this driver (though of course DX drivers are a bit of a "moveable feast" and they alter the manufacturers/board design occasionally without updating the description so theres no guarantee that the boards I bought over a year ago are absoloutely identical to what's shipping now. To be safe, I'd use a pack of 4xAA's (and keep a spare pack of 4 in your pocket in case they run out, if you do longer rides)


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## sknhgy (Jan 18, 2008)

I, for one, will be anxious to see your results.


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

ocean breathes salty said:


> Wow, that is pretty darn slow. The worst part is that the days are getting longer and you don't really need lights at the moment either.


Ok, worlds most proracted DIY build ever I think.

It took so long for the bits to turn up, I just ditched them in a box and forgot about it all. No idea why, but I've just picked it all up again (just in time for the summer!)

so I have a couple of questions:

- my heatsink is cut a bit wonky, so it's not a perfect mate to the star. If the gap is filled with thermal paste, is that ok, or am I better off filling it by hand and getting the fit as good as possible?
- my stars have two +ve & two -ive terminals - what are they for? I am just using one star, so is it ok to just wire to one of each, or do I need to link them together or something?

Thanks everyone. I should have something to show in a week or so (lame 2 year old design ripped off of someone elses!)

Leon


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

The 2x + and - terminals on the star are to give you a bit of choice in how you wire if things don't quite line up properly. You only need to use one of each.

You do need to spend the extra bit of time and get the heat sink end nice and flat as this will drastically increase its efficiency. Saw marks and pits and ruts will hurt heat transfer even if you us AA to fill the holes.


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

ocean breathes salty said:


> The 2x + and - terminals on the star are to give you a bit of choice in how you wire if things don't quite line up properly. You only need to use one of each.
> 
> You do need to spend the extra bit of time and get the heat sink end nice and flat as this will drastically increase its efficiency. Saw marks and pits and ruts will hurt heat transfer even if you us AA to fill the holes.


Thanks for the advice. I got all impatient last night and just went ahead hacked it all together.

So I've got the LED, driver, heatsink all soldered and assembled, and doctored the torch housing enough to fit everything nicely. I filed the heatsink flat with a medium file, so I guess it's not perfect, but I've since glued the star down. I held the fly leads onto a battery, and it worked. Lots and lots of light. LED's are amazing, aren't they?

I guess this is v1. Let's see how long it lasts before it pops!

So after a year of ignoring all the bits, I made a (sort of) working light in about 40 mins last night. Now it's time for refinement!!!!

Thanks for the help again.

Leon


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

Photos or it didn't happen


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

ocean breathes salty said:


> Photos or it didn't happen


Ok, but it ain't pretty. I'll report back later.


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

lejack said:


> hello, here is a lamp that I made for my daughter, with a cree R2 and one battery 18650


Wow, that's really nice and straightforward.

What did you use to make that battery housing with? You'll see in my next post that a battery holder is what I need next.


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

*Look, I really did finally cobble something together*



LeonOfBristol said:


> Ok, but it ain't pretty. I'll report back later.


Clearly not a completer-finisher.

Some pics to prove that I did it.



















and even working!










Excuse the fugly-ness. Next steps:

 make a nice battery holder (the clamp isn't really practical!)
 make a nice cable with inline switch
 rebuild the whole lot, neater!

I think I'll use this on the handlebars for the first couple of outings, and see how hot it gets. I don't want to melt a hole in my helmet!


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## RippleChip (Sep 30, 2007)

I'm just waiting on my next batch of leds and drivers to show up, pretty much have everything else.

Curious what you used for the heat sink and where you found it.


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## LeonOfBristol (Oct 4, 2006)

RippleChip said:


> I'm just waiting on my next batch of leds and drivers to show up, pretty much have everything else.
> 
> Curious what you used for the heat sink and where you found it.


I bought some aluminium bar of ebay, and then after I realised I would never be able to file it down neatly, I got a friend who works in engineering to turn it down to the right diameter.

I wish I'd also got him to chop it into nice neat nuggets too. It's a pain cutting it by hand, and you don't end up with as good a finish.


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## bbgobie (Apr 20, 2006)

3hrs on full for a P7 at 2.8amps is a lot of AA's!

Off the top of my head its about 12 cells!

As for parts, its whatever has already been listed + a battery holder for 12AA's
And theres tons of drivers around, you'd have to find one that can provide 2.8A and than depending if its a buck or boost configure your AA cell pack.


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## joec1 (Dec 15, 2010)

hi peeps, first post ever here...

been reading this thread, then re reading and re-re reading, to try and get an accurate list together for my own build. 

have played with the p7 in a flashlight and decided (after making a chop) to make my own mtb light. 

love the style of these little ones, and wondered if (considering this is now 2 years old) you guys could give me a list of parts required for an "on full, on half(ish) off" bright as i can get, LED, powered by AA (multiple) with a life of around 3 hours

ive read and re read this thread and ended up with a clear design in my head, but the led type has just become more of a headache.

cheers


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## SAVAGESAM (Jan 14, 2008)

Ofroadbent said if I have 1" tubing (which it is 1" that I have) I could mount what sounded like everything inside the tube, XML/L-flex


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