# recommendations for a Clydesdale dh bike?



## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

i rode dh for the first time this weekend, and im hooked! northstar at tahoe was a complete blast!

because their rentals only went up to a sz large, i brought my mtb: 2009 sj fsr with custom wheels in a xxl

people have told me that its usually recommended to ride a dh bike a little smaller than typical for your frame size, as it gives you more control. however, at 6'6", 350, a large is simply too small, and i cant seem to find even an xl in a dh bike. anyone have any suggestions? any help appreciated

thanks! :thumbsup:


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## 08nwsula (Oct 19, 2005)

how do you feel about Santa Cruz?


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## ripplemuncher (Dec 6, 2004)

I'm the same height, but only 185 pounds. I am looking for XL geometry also. I just lost a ton of money selling a size large Intense that I bought thinking "heh, if large is as big as DH bikes go, that must be all I need." Boy was I wrong. I rode it five times and lost well over a grand selling it, so I don't want to make that mistake again. Anyway, I started a thread similar to this not long ago:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=6151948#post6151948

Unless I find something better, it looks like the Canfield F1 Jedi will be the one for me. They will have an XL size available in 2010 (not yet listed on their site) that gains an inch in length. It has a reach dimension of 18", 46.5 wheelbase and 16.3 chainstays. The longish size large bikes and XL's have a similar wheelbase, but they all have one inch longer stays, so that makes the front center of the Jedi an inch longer than all the rest. (This is what we tall guys need to not feel pinched up on the bike) And when the suspension dips into its travel, the rearward axle path will push the wheelbase out roughly an inch. So now we are looking at a wheelbase closer to 47.5 inches plus. I think the bike is a but overbuilt for my weight and terrain, but it should be perfect for you.


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

08nwsula said:


> how do you feel about Santa Cruz?


i feel great! but unless im missing something huge, the v10 and the likes top out at sz large, correct?


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

ripplemuncher said:


> I'm the same height, but only 185 pounds. I am looking for XL geometry also. I just lost a ton of money selling a size large Intense that I bought thinking "heh, if large is as big as DH bikes go, that must be all I need." Boy was I wrong. I rode it five times and lost well over a grand selling it, so I don't want to make that mistake again. Anyway, I started a thread similar to this not long ago:
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=6151948#post6151948
> 
> Unless I find something better, it looks like the Canfield F1 Jedi will be the one for me. They will have an XL size available in 2010 (not yet listed on their site) that gains an inch in length. It has a reach dimension of 18", 46.5 wheelbase and 16.3 chainstays. The longish size large bikes and XL's have a similar wheelbase, but they all have one inch longer stays, so that makes the front center of the Jedi an inch longer than all the rest. (This is what we tall guys need to not feel pinched up on the bike) And when the suspension dips into its travel, the rearward axle path will push the wheelbase out roughly an inch. So now we are looking at a wheelbase closer to 47.5 inches plus. I think the bike is a but overbuilt for my weight and terrain, but it should be perfect for you.


checked out the site, i must admit that i have my reservations...even at the sizes you're listing, im surprised it doesnt have a 1.5" head tube? i thought these were more or less standard on beefy downhill frames. if that's as close as they get, i guess it's that or custom. im really surprised no one else makes at least an xl......

thanks for the info


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## 08nwsula (Oct 19, 2005)

lifeis11 said:


> i feel great! but unless im missing something huge, the v10 and the likes top out at sz large, correct?


a nomad can be a very good dh/fr bike, especially for someone just getting into the game.


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

08nwsula said:


> a nomad can be a very good dh/fr bike, especially for someone just getting into the game.


good tip, but i actually have an '09 sj fsr elite, so as nice as the nomad looks, it doesnt, to me, look enough MORE burly than what i've got.

if im going to plunk down serious cash for a dh'er, id really like it to be f*cking bombproof and with tons of travel


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## ripplemuncher (Dec 6, 2004)

lifeis11 said:


> checked out the site, i must admit that i have my reservations...even at the sizes you're listing, im surprised it doesnt have a 1.5" head tube? i thought these were more or less standard on beefy downhill frames. if that's as close as they get, i guess it's that or custom. im really surprised no one else makes at least an xl......
> 
> thanks for the info


The 1.5 head tube is more for long travel single crown forks that NEED a larger steerer tube so they don't flex so much. Dual crown distributes the load better so is less dependent on extra beef. But 1.5 is burlier, and would be a good choice for your weight. I bet there is a good chance the 2010 Jedi will have a 1.5 head tube because a lot of people are putting single crown forks on them and 1.5 is just more common like you say.

Agreed on the lack of XL's. What is frustrating is that the few XL sizes out there are not longer than the size large bikes. What the manufacturers are doing is offering smaller size increments for regular height people, not a larger frame size.

If you are not after a pure DH bike, you will find some nice long bikes in the freeride category. Check out the 2010 Turner RFX for example. But keep in mind that the head angle is steeper and the seat tube / head tube are longer. You also lose the 150mm dropout spacing that a guy of your weight really wants. (be sure to get a 150mm hub with the widest flange spacing possible. Some manufacturers drop the ball and don't widen the flange spacing for the wider hub specs) Just because we are tall, it does not mean that we don't need to bend our limbs and get as low as possible. In fact, we need to crouch more than the rest to get our center of gravity down as low as possible. So long seat and head tubes are a hindrance for real DH action. If you are riding up hills, then you need it, but don't accept a tall bike for downhill.

I will keep looking for off the shelf options and put what I find in my thread. Post up anything you find. I think the Canfield will work well with a 70mm stem. A little longer TT with a 50mm stem would be better, but other than a vintage Rotec Pro DH, there is just nothing else out there box stock that I have found - yet.


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

ripplemuncher said:


> The 1.5 head tube is more for long travel single crown forks that NEED a larger steerer tube so they don't flex so much. Dual crown distributes the load better so is less dependent on extra beef. But 1.5 is burlier, and would be a good choice for your weight. I bet there is a good chance the 2010 Jedi will have a 1.5 head tube because a lot of people are putting single crown forks on them and 1.5 is just more common like you say.
> 
> Agreed on the lack of XL's. What is frustrating is that the few XL sizes out there are not longer than the size large bikes. What the manufacturers are doing is offering smaller size increments for regular height people, not a larger frame size.
> 
> ...


i also read through your previous thread, and noticed that you listed the yeti as a " longer" large size. i really like yeti and this would be my first choice. i may be 6'6", but my inseam is only about a 36. i wonder if this would be long enough? have you ridden one of these? thoughts?


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## 08nwsula (Oct 19, 2005)

lifeis11 said:


> good tip, but i actually have an '09 sj fsr elite, so as nice as the nomad looks, it doesnt, to me, look enough MORE burly than what i've got.


the nomad is way more burly than what you have. if you want a tank, than yes, I would look elsewhere.


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## ripplemuncher (Dec 6, 2004)

lifeis11 said:


> i also read through your previous thread, and noticed that you listed the yeti as a " longer" large size. i really like yeti and this would be my first choice. i may be 6'6", but my inseam is only about a 36. i wonder if this would be long enough? have you ridden one of these? thoughts?


I should probably go back and add some clarification to that thread/post. I have a list of bikes here on my desk, all of them within .25" in overall length. Some of them are large's, a few are XL's. The list includes everything in my thread. So the large's are not actually any longer as noted, but actually the XL's are short. The only bike I have found (so far) that is longer than the size large Intense that I lost my shirt on is the (2010 XL) Jedi. That is it. I have found some longer freeride bikes, but they are all too tall. The Jedi with a 70mm stem will gain me two inches in cockpit length over my last bike. That is a pretty good chunk. Enough? I don't know.

I have not ridden the yeti. I have seen the 303 in person and it looks massively strong, so you would be covered there. But in my opinion it is too small for you (us).


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

ripplemuncher said:


> I should probably go back and add some clarification to that thread/post. I have a list of bikes here on my desk, all of them within .25" in overall length. Some of them are large's, a few are XL's. The list includes everything in my thread. So the large's are not actually any longer as noted, but actually the XL's are short. The only bike I have found (so far) that is longer than the size large Intense that I lost my shirt on is the (2010 XL) Jedi. That is it. I have found some longer freeride bikes, but they are all too tall. The Jedi with a 70mm stem will gain me two inches in cockpit length over my last bike. That is a pretty good chunk. Enough? I don't know.
> 
> I have not ridden the yeti. I have seen the 303 in person and it looks massively strong, so you would be covered there. But in my opinion it is too small for you (us).


yeah, i was not concerned about strength on the yeti, more about size and it would seem on that front, it is a no go. thanks for all the input. any idea when that jedi is due out?


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## jling360 (Oct 25, 2007)

The 2010 Giant Glory 0 might be a good fit. It has a 25.4 top tube


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## ripplemuncher (Dec 6, 2004)

I have updated my thread for more clarity.

The conversation I had with Chris Canfield about ten days ago is a bit foggy on the ETA part, but I think he said "about two months" wait on the new Jedi's. 

One of the reasons I feel good about the Jedi (beyond geometry) is because of all the posts saying how great the Canfield brothers take care of their customers. And I believe the suspension design is excellent (and I hold a patent on suspension design, so I'm not just speculating)

Let me know if you decide to talk to them. If you do, I will be sure to mention there is at least two tall guys who would appreciate a proper XL size DH bike.

-Alan


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## asin (Jan 31, 2005)

I'm 6'6" (but only 205). I have faced some of the issues you have. I'm evenly proportioned with a 36" inseam and long arms and the large V-Tach fit me just fine. It'll fit you too. If you get anything bigger it'll suck to ride in anything technical - there's a reason why these bikes don't come any bigger. They need to be manoeuvrable, not perfectly ergonomic. You need to easily move around on the bike. Remember: it's a sled with pedals!

The Knolly V-Tach is so far the toughest bike I've encountered. Bar none. 12.5lb frame, 150mm rear end. Put a 888 up front and a Saint kit and you have a very tough bike. Anything that's billed as a race bike is one you should probably avoid. Same with any frame that's under 10lbs.

The large V-Tach is not uber-huge but for a bike like this a 24" top tube should be fine. I rode a V-Tach for many years on the Shore and in Whistler with great results. The bike was very flickable for me. You can't evaluate a DH bike's sizing the way you would for your pedally bike. The metrics you used to assess fit for your XC bike just don't apply.


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## ripplemuncher (Dec 6, 2004)

asin, please keep in mind that although a shorter wheelbase bike will steer quicker, it won't be able to defy physics and accelerate a 350lb body mass quicker. A longer bike is a better match in chassis dynamics for a heavier rider. Taller/heavier riders have to accept that they will be at a disadvantage in quickness (just like any other athlete) and bike geometry will not change this. Because you have adapted to your situation, it does not make it the best solution. 

Luckily, the flip side is more potential energy (speed) and longer legs (suspension) for downhill. Give and take.


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## KillerSloth (Apr 21, 2008)

Check out the large (I know... but it's 25.5" ETT) Rotec RL9. It's a really strong frame and it's pretty damn long.


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## Crimson (Jul 20, 2005)

They don't make the Highline anymore but Turner did make them in Xl. They are pretty rare but they are out there. I am 6 ft1 and tip the scale at 240 and I ride Large. I have ridden the Xl and I think you would fit on it well. I know Turner did have one left over Xl at the factory about 6 or 7 months ago. Give them a call it might still be there.

Crimson


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

lifeis11 said:


> i rode dh for the first time this weekend, and im hooked! northstar at tahoe was a complete blast!
> 
> because their rentals only went up to a sz large, i brought my mtb: 2009 sj fsr with custom wheels in a xxl
> 
> ...


Lots of good advice here and in the similar thread (except about the size of the Glory). I'm 6'7" and ride a Rotec RL9 which is plenty big enough. One thing I'd say though is don't get caught up on looking for an XL. XL doesn't give you any idea of the size of the bike. All XL means is bigger than the same bike in L. Research the dimensions/geometry... or just listen to ripplemuncher.


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## Huck Banzai (May 8, 2005)

Bikes that can be had, or custom built, for XL(+)

Evil Revolt
Turner DHR DW (Not def, but he is considering short XL runs)
Ventana El Cuervo (They will do custom sizes too)
Sinister Bikes (R9, etc..) will apparently work with custom builds.
Katipo bikes (more customs)

I am ~6'8" (Just a hair under) and reviewing my options/current bike -- my budget wants to avoid new frame buying until mid 2010 at the earliest, so Im trying to tweak.

I ride a Santa Cruz VP Free XL, which is very large, maybe a hair smaller than 'ideal' - but we all know thats preference. I recently started a thread (down below 'Big boy bike fit' and covered a bit in there.) The VPF fits pretty well, but has a high BB and I would like it a bit slacker (IE - I want it to be a 'real' DH bike) 

I am going to get a longer stem and raise it .5" and swap the shock for shorter travel (8.5x2.5 for 7.725" vs 8.75x2.75 for 8.465") which will drop the BB ~.5" and slacken the head ~1degree -- I have heard raves about this setup -- aforementioned budget says "Give it a try"

my point is - track down a cheap used VPF (they're super tough, as long as the linkage is cared for, used is a no brainer) and tweak it to your needs. Otherwise its likely custom time! At 350, you will need a serious spring though, I would think >800lbs -- you may want to look into options, I have never seen a spring over 750 personnally (but I dont get arounf much)


Run it with a 170-180mm beefy single crown and ir will be a little lower and not quite as slack, but up to the beating for sure!


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

FYI my last bike was a Santa Cruz VP-Free in XL and it was perfect for me at 6'7". The frame is for sale actually, but I'm in Australia.


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## HTFR (Jan 11, 2007)

Look at the geo on the large Demo. They are frign long in the top tube and they come with a 35mm stem. find a place to test ride one and get them to slap on a 55mm stem and you should be golden.


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## Gemini2k05 (Apr 19, 2005)

asin said:


> I'm 6'6" (but only 205). If you get anything bigger it'll suck to ride in anything technical - there's a reason why these bikes don't come any bigger.


Wrong wrong wrong. Longer is better. a 45.6 inch wheelbase (according to knolly's site) is nowhere near long enough for a 6'6" or 6'7" rider. The ONLY thing I think of a bike that short being useful for is riding f-ed up skinnines high in the skies. I have a 49.5in WB on my vp-free and it is wonderful. A tad longer top tube would be swell (it currently has freakish long CS). I'll take you on some high speed technical stuff, or some steep stuff, and you'll be begging for a longer bike.


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

honestly call Canfield....those guys are big (from what I heard) ....they will set you up


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## raff (Dec 19, 2005)

If you're not too worried about cost: take a look at nicolai. They can build you any size you want. bombproof.


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

what are the general opinions of the cannondale perp 1? all saint components, frame seems pretty tough, 36 hole rims, etc. plus, it comes in, what looks to me, to be a true xl!


may be more freeride than strictly downhill, but still, seems like something to consider, esp when the complete bike is only 4700! would it be worth it to put a longer fork on?

thoughts?


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Being heavy, remember to consider shock rate and travel. For example, the now discontinued Trek Session 10 or Foes DH have the shock absorbing ability you need.

Even though the Santacruz V10 in large may fit you and has plenty of travel I think you'd overwork the 2.75" shock.


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

Lelandjt said:


> Being heavy, remember to consider shock rate and travel. For example, the now discontinued Trek Session 10 or Foes DH have the shock absorbing ability you need.
> 
> Even though the Santacruz V10 in large may fit you and has plenty of travel I think you'd overwork the 2.75" shock.


right, but i thought the shock on the perp 1 was 180mm to 200mm adjustable. so it should have a max of 7.8 inches


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

actually, upon giving it another look, i think this xl falls under the catagory of ripple's "not any larger than a large." anyone else getting a similar read?


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

lifeis11 said:


> right, but i thought the shock on the perp 1 was 180mm to 200mm adjustable. so it should have a max of 7.8 inches


Any frame that has 2 shock mounting points for different travel is putting more leverage on the shock in the longer travel setting. That frame looks like it only has a 2.5" stroke shock so you're looking at a 2.8 or 3.1 leverage ratio. With the stock shock it will probably ride better in the shorter travel, lower leverage setting (considering your weight). If you got the shock tuned by Push specifically for you and that higher leverage it would work better in the long travel setting.

Also, for rough DH you'll want AT LEAST 8" of travel. I love the plush ride and confidence of 10".


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## highroller (Apr 26, 2004)

Regarding leverage ratios... what other dh bikes should Clydes be considering?

With higher spring rates needed for clydes... are there frames that can be both plush and lively? soak up the rough stuff while still being able to pop jumps.


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Any bike with a leverage ratio of less than 2.8:1 and at least 8" of travel. I would think that 9-10" would be better but some will argue that. Also, a frame that is somewhat overbuilt rather than one that has a reputation for being a very light race frame. Trek Session 10 would be my first pick for several reasons but I'm sure people can list a lot more.

Your second question is more one of shock tuning. A suspension design with a low leverage ratio and progressive shock rate helps but if you fall outside of the "standard" 150-180lb range you should consider a service like Push mandatory. Their DHX and Van R MX tune provides the ability to set more low speed damping to reduce wallowing and less high speed damping for plushness on sharp hits which would give you what you want.


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## ettore (Nov 13, 2004)

Someone mentioned a Rotec ... I just wanted to mention that the few Rotecs I have seen up here in Whistler (I have no idea what they are, they're always orange with black swingarms) are easily the meatiest bikes I have seen here ... and I have seen a lot of rigs.

I am fairly confident they're made in the US and A, so if you're into that sort of thing, you might be good. Also, not sure how small their facility is or whatever, but if they make those frames in house, I almost wonder if they could custom build you one ... the frames I saw looked a whole lot like they could make them any size they wanted to.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

ettore said:


> Someone mentioned a Rotec ... I just wanted to mention that the few Rotecs I have seen up here in Whistler (I have no idea what they are, they're always orange with black swingarms) are easily the meatiest bikes I have seen here ... and I have seen a lot of rigs.
> 
> I am fairly confident they're made in the US and A, so if you're into that sort of thing, you might be good. Also, not sure how small their facility is or whatever, but if they make those frames in house, I almost wonder if they could custom build you one ... the frames I saw looked a whole lot like they could make them any size they wanted to.


I ride a 2009 Rotec RL9 and for size (I'm 6'7") and strength I can definitely recommend. But in terms of design I can't. I originally had mine setup with a shock spring that was a little too light. When I went right through the travel I found that the rear tyre rubbed the back of the seat tube badly. Sure the spring was too soft, but I think a frame should be designed that even when bottoming out, the rear wheel shouldn't rub the frame. I wore right through the frame paint to bare metal within 15 minutes of riding. As good as the bike is, that just isn't right for me. Not for an expensive frame-only bicycle.

There's a lot of people giving props to the guy running the company (John Sullivan), but he blatantly ignored 3 of my 6 (or so) emails completely, even though I voiced serious/legitimate concerns.

I also found out after buying the bike and riding it, that the suspension design required a very particular rear derailleur to actually change gears. I have a new Shimano Saint short-cage rear derailleur fitted and the bike can't actually change gears up and down through the range. I ride in 1 or 2 gears per run. I've had the bike in 4 different shops without luck. I was told that's normal with this frame. Even though I told them how I was building the bike up before the frame arrived, no one mentioned that to me beforehand. So you can't just fit a normal derailleur and expect to be able to change gears. It's pretty pissweak and the company+importer knew the situation, but are happy to leave me be.

As much as I like the bike and want to say good things, I definitely can't recommend them. Small companies might be OK _sometimes_ and give the personal touch. But in this case I'd much prefer a bike designed for the masses that a company will stand behind their product.


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

Paranoid_Android said:


> I ride a 2009 Rotec RL9 and for size (I'm 6'7") and strength I can definitely recommend. But in terms of design I can't. I originally had mine setup with a shock spring that was a little too light. When I went right through the travel I found that the rear tyre rubbed the back of the seat tube badly. Sure the spring was too soft, but I think a frame should be designed that even when bottoming out, the rear wheel shouldn't rub the frame. I wore right through the frame paint to bare metal within 15 minutes of riding. As good as the bike is, that just isn't right for me. Not for an expensive frame-only bicycle.
> 
> There's a lot of people giving props to the guy running the company (John Sullivan), but he blatantly ignored 3 of my 6 (or so) emails completely, even though I voiced serious/legitimate concerns.
> 
> ...


Food for thought. I'd still like to try a yeti 303rdh just for the bombproofness some people have mentioned, but assuming it's too small, looks like the f1 Jedi might be the only choice


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## watermoccasin (Jan 28, 2004)

The large Giant Glory has a 25.4 inch effective top tube, and the large Santa Cruz V10 is 24.8. Normally a large frame has about a 24 inch top tube (like my large Norco Shore, works great for me at 6 foot 2). My buddy who is 6 foot 6 rides a large Glory.


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## tatankainlondon (Apr 4, 2004)

Paranoid_Android said:


> I ride a 2009 Rotec RL9 ...... When I went right through the travel I found that the rear tyre rubbed the back of the seat tube badly. Sure the spring was too soft, but I think a frame should be designed that even when bottoming out, the rear wheel shouldn't rub the frame. I wore right through the frame paint to bare metal within 15 minutes of riding.


When I was waiting for the new shock for my 09 Jedi frame I checked whether the tyre, when fully compresses, would rub the seat tube. On Jedi it would not. The seat would get the hit first but the frame is safe.

Below I attach the picture to show what I am talking about.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

Good to see!


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

wanted to bump this thread again, because i had another idea of sorts: because im really just getting started with downhill, and id also like a cheaper bike, i was thinking maybe something freeride-ish would be better. anyone recommend a good freeride bike for a super Clydesdale? 6'6" 325lbs?


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## ridefreeride (Apr 8, 2009)

i couldnt resist


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## burgundy snake (Dec 12, 2007)

ripplemuncher said:


> One of the reasons I feel good about the Jedi (beyond geometry) is because of all the posts saying how great the Canfield brothers take care of their customers. And I believe the suspension design is excellent (and I hold a patent on suspension design, so I'm not just speculating)
> 
> Let me know if you decide to talk to them. If you do, I will be sure to mention there is at least two tall guys who would appreciate a proper XL size DH bike.
> 
> -Alan





Chris Canfield said:


> I would recommend the 24.5 like we talked about-
> The sizing we use is really off our personal feel that works best on trail-
> I know what your thinking- but trust us - the 25 would be too much-
> I have ridding a 24 in the past and felt like it would fit a 6.3 guy a bit better than me-
> ...





Chris Canfield said:


> I have had a few request for the XL this year-
> I might do some of the new 2011 that come out maybe in mid summer 2010
> with a run of 10 xl's but only up to 24.5- but you should check the
> downhill size on the setup you want- not TT
> ...


I'm 6'6" (2M) and ride an XL VP Free. Love it! talked with Chris in January. I'm holding out for the XL Jedi as well. Keep in mind DH Sizing (Reach) is a better measure of fit for long travel bikes. Hope there is enough interest for a batch in 2010/2011. Tall DH freaks unite! :rockon:


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

wow. um.....


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

still in the market for one, and i thought i'd bump an old thread with a recent find: 07 cannondale judge team replica with fox 40/5.0 dhx and mostly new components. its a good price, i was just wondering if anyone had any clydesdale thoughts on it? 

thanks


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Top tube length and shock stroke?


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

Lelandjt said:


> Top tube length and shock stroke?


http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/07/CUSA/geo/geo.html?geoName=judge


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## pajak (May 20, 2009)

get the xl jedi. call up patrick from elka suspension. he has been riding one all season and loves it. he isn't a small guy (no offense) and he says he consistently has broken dh bikes and he hasn't had a single prob with the jedi.


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

nothing against the jedi, it looks badass and i believe the testimonials, i just cant swing it. this think is 2.5k. i bet the jedi frame is at least that much!


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

lifeis11 said:


> http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/07/CUSA/geo/geo.html?geoName=judge


any expert advice on this guy? 2,500? im 6'6", 350lbs


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## Prettym1k3 (Oct 11, 2005)

I'd say a VP Free.  SUPER tough.


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## scottryana (Sep 7, 2008)

XL Turner Highline

Sturdy bike! I think that some of the DH race bikes don't have the same bombprof build as the Highline or the Knollys. I know that the Highline comes with a 25" Top tube. It has a spring rate that can support your weight, and if you build it with a triple crown fork it has a pretty slack head tube angle that is great for resort riding.

The other bonus is that since it isn't the new hottest thing you can find them (when you do) for cheap.

Ryan.


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

The Judge has a long top tube, a low shock leverage ratio, and looks to be pretty stiff so yeah, I say it's a good Clydesdale DH bike.


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

got a line on a santa cruz bullit also, i think the bike is big enough, at least for what i want it for. but a couple things have kept me from pulling the trigger:

one: ive used some shock calculators online and i estimate ill need a 900#, i cant seem to find one anywhere. ive heard some people say they have them, but i cant seem to buy one anywhere, i tried calling fox and they tell me they only sell up to 800.

two: im afraid, at 350lbs, im too heavy for a single pivot point bike

any help with both of these would be a great help, thanks


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

I had a 2nd gen Bullit and it didn't have the stiffest rear end. Now I have a current 3rd gen and the tubing, pivot, and thru-axle dropouts are MUCH stiffer.
As for the spring, I bet that a Fox DHX with the 800 would be stiff enough. You could increase the Boost Valve pressure and crank up the ProPedal for additional support.


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## Floggus (Feb 11, 2006)

I am 6'6" 270lb, and am at the edge of height and weight limit for dh parts. The main problem I have is finding springs to work with the suspension. I ride a VP-Free which is popular among the clyde crowd because it is one of the few 8"+ travel bikes in XL. It has a 2.75 stroke and 8.5 travel which is about a 10:3 ratio. Fox caps out at a 700lb spring for most spring lengths which is a little squishy for me on the free.

If you find a bike with a lower leverage ratio, you might be able to get a spring to fit it. Unless you are able to afford a custom spring/bike, you are going to get a wallowy feel on any dh bike. On the positive side, they do have springs for the fox 40 that are rated way higher than the normal 240lb cap. I found a spring that might even be a little too stiff for me and the is one stiffer than that. If you or anyone are still interested I can dig up a part number for the spring.


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## robopopp (Nov 14, 2009)

I have raced a Specialized Team DH frame with a Boxxer and Azonic wheels and it is quite bombproof. My team mate was 6-3 275 and am 6-5 220. The bike is great and Specialized does not make the frame anymore. Still have the bike and dont ride it anymore. 47 lbs, specific for DH. Great ride and was very competitive.


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## chooofoojoo (Feb 22, 2007)

evil revolt size XL... legit bikes

i'm 6'4" and ride a large


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## lifeis11 (Sep 28, 2009)

Floggus said:


> Fox caps out at a 700lb spring for most spring lengths which is a little squishy for me on the free..


you sure? ive seen plenty of 800s around...


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## snojcb (Sep 28, 2007)

I spoke with David Turner today about the possibility of getting a XXL DHR. His reponse is below:

=========================
From: DT [[email protected]]
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 6:04 PM
Subject: RE: XXL DHR

Hey JC

If you order 20 I will build them. Deposits required.

Thanks for the interest.

David Turner
=========================

So the only way we'd see a true DH bike for tall riders is if we join together and make a bulk order.

J. C.


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## HTFR (Jan 11, 2007)

snojcb said:


> I spoke with David Turner today about the possibility of getting a XXL DHR. His reponse is below:
> 
> =========================
> From: DT [[email protected]]
> ...


The reach on a large demo 8 is almost an inch longer than the XL Turner. Viola, a XXL.


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## COLIN M (Mar 26, 2009)

Canfield OR Knolly IMO


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