# Hub for big guy



## giantjeff (May 1, 2010)

Just cracked my Stans ZTR hub and need to replace. I was thinking some Red Hope Pro IIs (for the Bling Factor) mounted to my existing flow 29er rim . My LBS suggested DT swiss 240s. They seem to be bomb proof. But For a 235 Pounder? Im ridding a Rip Nine on mostly cross country and minor all mountain type trails. I'm more of a thunker then finess but im not hitting any big drop offs. Is the DT Swiss worth the money? Is it Clyde worthy?


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## jonberens (Aug 18, 2010)

I upgraded to Stans Flows with Hope hubs and have not had a problem. 250 lbs and ride similar terrain.

Good Luck


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Hope Pro II has my vote. 300 pounds, same ride style and terrain, they haven't missed a beat...


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## kingair (Jun 2, 2008)

Hope hubs use pawls and springs that hold the pawls against the hub body. The springs break and you only have four points of contact when the pawls are engaged. I'd go with Chris King hubs. Kings use a drive plate with 72 points of contact when engaged, much more robust design imo. The DT Swiss 240's are very similar.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Much more money too. The Hopes haven't let me down yet and I am not easy on them, not in the least. Not saying they are the best, but certainly for the cost, they are a great bang for the buck.


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## Sasquatch1413 (Nov 6, 2008)

Hopes are definitely known to be a great hub for clydes. Freehubs seem to hold up very well and hub shells are pretty strong. If you want the best of the best (and you will pay for it) get a chris king hub or DT Swiss 440 FR hub. The DT Swiss 240 is their lightweight hub. The 440 or even the 350 would be better suited to a big rough gentlemen as yourself. I've been riding a 440 at 330 lbs for the past two years with no issues, I'm rough on equipment too.

You also might look at Hadley hubs or Industry Nine hubs. They have much higher points of engagement (72+ vs DT's 18) and are supposed to be stong hubs.


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## Fam Money (Apr 26, 2010)

Another aggressive 270lb Clyde here who rides Pro II Evos. They've held up well over the last year I've had them. Only maintenance I've done on them is swap out the bearings in the rear as they were running a little rough. Evo bearing kit was around $40 from Hope.

I'd also recommend that you grab the stainless steel freehub unless you have a high end cassette. When I finally went to pull my cassette off I had a hell of time separating the two. You can order it directly from Hope for about $67 shipped. I just went ahead and replaced mine.


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

Cheaper:
Hope Pro II Evo with stainless steel freehub body

More Expensive:
Hadley SDH 10mm thru bolt

Very Expensive:
Chris King ISO with stainless steel freehub body and fun bolts


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## clydecrash (Apr 1, 2005)

I will put in a nod for Hadley (if you are considering DT). High quality build, reliable, fast engagement, easy to work on, and reasonable price (compared to King, I9, or most DT). I use both Hadley and King on the rear and, while King is a better build, Hadley is almost as good and tough to beat in their price range. Very convertible too. A great hub to buy for your current build, and future builds.

But Hope has a good rep. I use Hope IIs on the front, but do not use them on the rear because I am spoiled with the fast engagement of Hadley and King

If you decide to use a Hope, I also recommend the steel freehub body. You may find out that the price of a Hope with the steel body is very close to the Hadley that comes with a titanium body.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

I don't understand the whole fast engagement thing. When I push on my pedals, the bike moves. I don't notice any hesitation. Maybe someday I'll try a different setup. I like the looks of the Industry Nine. If anyone can chime in on them, that would be great. If I ever switch from Hope, it would likely be Hadley or Industry Nine. I don't think I could ever bring myself to buy anything Chris King.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Currently (and sadly. . . .) 283lbs (been as low as 255lbs), and have been on Flows laced to 240s hubs (built by mikesee) for just under two years, riding several times a week. Bomber wheelset, hubs have been great and are super simple to service. For a lower cost version of the 240s, the DT Swiss 350 rear hub (with the same star ratchet freehub as the 240s) can be found for less than $200.


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## Sasquatch1413 (Nov 6, 2008)

Nubster said:


> I don't understand the whole fast engagement thing. When I push on my pedals, the bike moves. I don't notice any hesitation. Maybe someday I'll try a different setup. I like the looks of the Industry Nine. If anyone can chime in on them, that would be great. If I ever switch from Hope, it would likely be Hadley or Industry Nine. I don't think I could ever bring myself to buy anything Chris King.


The only time I notice engagement is when i'm riding through technical rock stuff and doing short packpedals to time my pedal strokes and keep from hitting rocks. All I've ever ridden are 18 point hubs though so I don't know what I'm missing out on yet. I do know I can feel the slop through tech stuff though.


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## kingair (Jun 2, 2008)

Nubster said:


> I don't understand the whole fast engagement thing. When I push on my pedals, the bike moves. I don't notice any hesitation. Maybe someday I'll try a different setup. I like the looks of the Industry Nine. If anyone can chime in on them, that would be great. If I ever switch from Hope, it would likely be Hadley or Industry Nine. I don't think I could ever bring myself to buy anything Chris King.


I built up some wheels with hope hubs for my wife. Without any talk or prompting from me about engagement points and what that means, she complained about how far she'd have to pedal before it would engage. I rebuilt her rear wheel with a Hadley hub and she never complained again. This wasn't something we thought or talked a lot about, she doesn't care. All my wife wants is for her bike to feel right or the way she want's it. Honestly I'm surprised she ever even noticed.

I've owned, used, torn apart for maintenance, etc., Hope, Hadley, DT Swiss 240's, and Chris Kings. IMO you get what you pay for and I won't use anything but Chris King and DT Swiss, I feel they are just simply a better design. I doubt any of us will break any of the hubs mentioned in this thread so far though, they are all very nice hubs. My mountain bikes all have Chris King and my road bike has 240's. The 18 points of engagement are just fine on a road bike for me, however there is an update you can buy for like $30 on the 240's that increases it to 36 which would probably be very nice on a mountain bike.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Like I said, I don't think I've ever noticed poor engagement but it's possible since I've only ever known stock hubs or the Hopes, maybe I just don't know any better. Next time I need a wheel set, I'll certainly give at least a different rear hub a try to see what's up. But then again, sometimes ignorance is bliss....haha


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

And since you have experience with both the Chris King and Hadley Hubs, how do you think they compare? Do you honestly think the CK's are $100+ better?


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

Nubster said:


> And since you have experience with both the Chris King and Hadley Hubs, how do you think they compare? Do you honestly think the CK's are $100+ better?


Quality of construction is equal, but the King freehub system is superior to the standard pawl and ratchet system of the Hadley. You probably won't ever have an issue with the Hadley but their 72 poe hubs have three pawls engaged at a time while the King has 72 poe with 72 engagement points all engaged at the same time. Here is a video to help you understand the different systems. The first shows a Hope with four pawls with 24 ratchet points. All four pawls engage at one time. The Hadley is very similar except it uses 6 pawls (offset so three engage at a time) with 36 ratchet points. Since the pawls are offset, it gives you 72 points of engagement. It then shows the DT and the King system. It shows and describes why the King system is the superior freehub design on the market.





Buy Mountain Bikes From Mpora Gear


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## markymark (Oct 30, 2004)

260lbs here. I had 2 Hope hubs before I got a Chris King with SS drive shell and funbolts. Let's just say I will never ever ever use a Hope hub again, they are a-pawl-ing. 

CK all the way. :thumbsup:


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## sandmangts (Feb 16, 2004)

I have owned the same king hubset for 11 years. They have been built into at least 4 sets of rims that I can remember. They have been on several different bikes and are currently on my 08 Epiphany. With regular service they have been flawless. I am 200 pounds and I ride alot although not too aggressive but I do break and bend rims every now and then. Worth every penny. Made in America.


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## kingair (Jun 2, 2008)

That imbedded video above wasn't working for me. Here's a link if it wasn't working for someone else.
http://video.mpora.com/ep/r6SP2DtVL/


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## jesspal (Apr 26, 2009)

I will be following, I have a set of Sun Ringle Black Flag Experts, the hub went bad after 6 months riding. They covered it under warranty, but i was still out the $50 shipping. I saved the box and all the packing, expecting it to happen again. 

If it does I will just buy a new hub and have the wheel rebuilt.


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## clydecrash (Apr 1, 2005)

Every hub can have problems, but it seems some are more likely to have problems than others. I have had Shimano freehubs go out (used those many years ago), Hadley bearings go out, and King ring drive wear out (on an over 10 year old Discotech hub that I used/abused). King is still the least likely to have problems, but you can check the reviews for a few different opinions. Hadley was having many problems when they were putting out those 108pt hubs, but I haven't heard of any major problems since then. They use bearings that wear out eventually but are easily replaced with bearings you can find almost anywhere. There has been many discussions of Hope--good and bad.

The highest quality hub I have used is King. Not only the general manufacturing and the ring drive system, but also the bearings. As far as I can tell, bearings are superior as compared to Hadley.

Want something completely different? True Precison Stealth. As I have said in previous threads, TP is in a different world.


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

jesspal said:


> I will be following, I have a set of Sun Ringle Black Flag Experts, the hub went bad after 6 months riding. They covered it under warranty, but i was still out the $50 shipping. I saved the box and all the packing, expecting it to happen again.
> 
> If it does I will just buy a new hub and have the wheel rebuilt.


What went bad?

I have the same wheelset and the bearings went bad in the freehub body pretty quick. I was able to remove them (pretty easy once you know how they come out) and replace the bearings with stainless steel models from VXB.com for relatively cheap and now the hub is quite solid and rolls extra smooth.


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## jesspal (Apr 26, 2009)

mtnbiker72 said:


> What went bad?
> 
> I have the same wheelset and the bearings went bad in the freehub body pretty quick. I was able to remove them (pretty easy once you know how they come out) and replace the bearings with stainless steel models from VXB.com for relatively cheap and now the hub is quite solid and rolls extra smooth.


Free Hub Body, I guess that can happen with any brand.


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

> I will put in a nod for Hadley (if you are considering DT). High quality build, reliable, fast engagement, easy to work on,





> Hadley was having many problems when they were putting out those 108pt hubs, but I haven't heard of any major problems since then. They use bearings that wear out eventually but are easily replaced with bearings you can find almost anywhere.


When you guys say Hadley hubs are easy to work on, what do you mean? First off, Hadley requires special tools to work on their hubs, tools that some (a lot?) of shops don't have. Go-ride sells the tools for $115. Would that money be better spent on King hubs?

After 7 months of use, I did a rain ride with my Hadley hubs, and several days later I noticed my front hub was making a grinding noise and my rear freewheel didn't spin anymore. I took my bike to a shop, and when the mechanic opened up the hubs, they were full of dirt and grime. The mechanic asked me if I had ever submerged my bike in a stream. I had not.

I would love to learn how to work on my own hubs because the bill to have my hubs worked on was too expensive.

Should I have been doing some kind of routine maintenance on my hubs?

Disappointed Hadley hub owner


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## giantjeff (May 1, 2010)

Well, following the advice of LBS, and some reassurance from MTBR, I ordered the DT Swiss 240s. LBS said 240s hubs are truely Swiss made, while most other models are made in Taiwain. Can't wait to get them built and ride. Anxious to see if any diffrence in engagement feel in comparison to the old Stans ZTR. I'll Followup after first ride.


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## kingair (Jun 2, 2008)

Don't forget that for I think around $30 you can get this little simple update that will give you 36 POE instead of 18 on those DT's. The update is simply a replacement star ratchet with finer teeth. You could buy the new star ratchet and replace it the first time you do some routine maintenance on the hub. You'll also need some dt swiss ratchet grease. Do a google search for 36 step star ratchet. Nice choice on a built proof hub!


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

happyriding said:


> Should I have been doing some kind of routine maintenance on my hubs?


Yes, but that's not to say it would have prevented your issue. Hubs, like any other part on your bike, need maintained.


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## SenorSerioso (Apr 22, 2011)

kingair said:


> The only thing out of the ordinary needed to work on Hadley hubs is a parker pin spanner of the right size. The pin spanner is cheap. To completely tear apart a King hub you need the King shop tool for $150. I bought the thing thinking if I had to pay a shop to rebuild a hub less than three times I could've bought the tool in the first place. For basic maintenance you don't need the tool though.


I second that. Just broke mine down tonight with two cone wrenches. The spanner wrench is only used to pull the bearings out of the free hub and hub shell.


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## kingair (Jun 2, 2008)

happyriding said:


> When you guys say Hadley hubs are easy to work on, what do you mean? First off, Hadley requires special tools to work on their hubs, tools that some (a lot?) of shops don't have. Go-ride sells the tools for $115. Would that money be better spent on King hubs?


The only thing out of the ordinary needed to work on Hadley hubs is a parker pin spanner of the right size. The pin spanner is cheap. To completely tear apart a King hub you need the King shop tool for $150. I bought the thing thinking if I had to pay a shop to rebuild a hub less than three times I could've bought the tool in the first place. For basic maintenance you don't need the tool though.

The Chris King tool is a work of art just like their hubs.


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

happyriding said:


> When you guys say Hadley hubs are easy to work on, what do you mean? First off, Hadley requires special tools to work on their hubs, tools that some (a lot?) of shops don't have. Go-ride sells the tools for $115. Would that money be better spent on King hubs?


No Hadley tools needed, just a 20mm cone and a spanner
» Hadley Rear Hub Service - Sick Lines - mountain bike reviews, news, videos | Your comprehensive downhill and freeride mountain bike resource


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

mtnbiker72 said:


> No Hadley tools needed, just a 20mm cone and a spanner
> » Hadley Rear Hub Service - Sick Lines - mountain bike reviews, news, videos | Your comprehensive downhill and freeride mountain bike resource


A 20mm cone wrench does not fit my Hadley hubs. My Hadley hubs require a 21mm cone wrench (front hub) and a 25mm cone wrench (rear hub), as well as the red Park spanner. Park sells a 21mmm cone wrench but not a 25mm cone wrench. What should DIY Hadley hub owners do about that?



> To completely tear apart a King hub you need the King shop tool for $150.


Okay, so with Hadley hubs you are pretty much in the same boat as with King hubs.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Yeah, if I have to spend a boat load of money just to service my hubs, I'll stick with Hopes or check out the DT Swiss offerings, barring that they require special tools too.


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## kingair (Jun 2, 2008)

happyriding said:


> A 20mm cone wrench does not fit my Hadley hubs. My Hadley hubs require a 21mm cone wrench (front hub) and a 25mm cone wrench (rear hub), as well as the red Park spanner. Park sells a 21mmm cone wrench but not a 25mm cone wrench. What should DIY Hadley hub owners do about that?


That's right, I remember what I did. I picked up a 19mm cone wrench and used a dremel on it till it fit right and I had my own custom cheap tool. Worked great.



> Okay, so with Hadley hubs you are pretty much in the same boat as with King hubs.


Not quite, a filed out cone wrench and park tools spanner is pretty cheap.


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## clydecrash (Apr 1, 2005)

I just checked my Hadley hubs. And, as I remembered, all you need to maintain the rear hub is a 21mm cone wrench and a spanner. More recently I purchased a front wheel with a 20mm hub (I believe it is a downhill hub). I see that it takes a 25mm wrench.

So for the 21mm, I bought a 20mm and dremeled it out. There are 21mm wrenches, but they are not that common. I also searched for a 25mm wrench. Again, not that common, but I found some, including one on ebay. I think I will buy one (or two) now before I think I need it.

It really is that easy to maintain Hadley hubs. The most difficult part is replacing bearings. You still need to work something out to press in and press out. All together, still not as expensive as the King tools.


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## fatguy1 (Feb 11, 2010)

hadleys all the way.....kings are nice but not worth the loot. plus the service hadley offers is the best...


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

> The most difficult part is replacing bearings. You still need to work something out to press in and press out.


Like what? Do the Hadley tools contain something that lets you extract and install bearings?


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## Kinan (Jun 15, 2009)

I'm similar size 6'3" 255 and run red Hope Pro IIs also for the past 2 years. No issues whatsoever. Once you get used to the loud pawls in back they are great hubs for a bigger rider.


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## clydecrash (Apr 1, 2005)

happyriding said:


> Like what? Do the Hadley tools contain something that lets you extract and install bearings?


There might be a Hadley tool, but Hadley uses the same type of bearings many other manufacturers use (even Hope?). Those of us that had to deal with the removal and installation of bearings have used large sockets to tap in and out, or maybe even make a press tool using washers, nuts, and a threaded rod.

Search the web. Last time I looked (years ago), there was plenty of discussions and instructions on this.


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

> I just checked my Hadley hubs. And, as I remembered, all you need to maintain the rear hub is a 21mm cone wrench and a spanner. More recently I purchased a front wheel with a 20mm hub (I believe it is a downhill hub). I see that it takes a 25mm wrench.


Hmmm...I guess I have the sizes backwards. My rear hub is a 10mm bolt thru and my front hub is a 20mm thru axle. I also think you need two wrenches for the front hub.


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

Dude. Hadley and done. Mine have been issue free for the last 2 years of year round riding on rocky technical terrain. My other wheelset has hope pro II's and I can't say that same for those.


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## Sasquatch1413 (Nov 6, 2008)

My Gravity G29 rear hub isn't gonna last long and looking for cheap upgrades. Not as worried about the freehub because it won't see as much abuse from a SS. I've heard of Halo as an ok hub for big guys but not recently. Anybody ridden the Fire Eye hubs? What about Kore?

Fire Eye
Fire Eye Excelerant Rear R-10 10mm QR 2012 | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

Kore
Kore Torsion Disc Rear Hub QR 2012 | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

Halo
Halo Spin Doctor Disc Rear QR | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com


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## RMountainNM (Oct 1, 2010)

giantjeff said:


> Just cracked my Stans ZTR hub and need to replace. I was thinking some Red Hope Pro IIs (for the Bling Factor) mounted to my existing flow 29er rim . My LBS suggested DT swiss 240s. They seem to be bomb proof. But For a 235 Pounder? Im ridding a Rip Nine on mostly cross country and minor all mountain type trails. I'm more of a thunker then finess but im not hitting any big drop offs. Is the DT Swiss worth the money? Is it Clyde worthy?


I am riding on a DT Swiss 240 and Im 280 lbs and ride lots of very rocky XC trails. I am also a pedal masher and I have had no problems with this hub what so ever. My previous hub was an XT and I absolutely shredded the palls in that thing.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

After reading other threads and reviews, I am leaning towards the DT Swiss 240's for my next rear hub. Possibly Hadley, but DT Swiss right now is top of the list. I'm hoping to have the cash to finish my John Henry build this summer and possibly even my SS diSSent.


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## techrider (Apr 13, 2006)

I have been using DMR Revolvers for the last 7 years or so with zero issues on my RIP 9 and Kona Coiler. They are not super light but they are durable. They took a beating on the trails in Copper Harbor and Marquette Mtn.
For reference I am 6'7" 260ish lbs.


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## davidfrench (Jan 25, 2011)

mtnbiker72 said:


> Here is a video to help you understand the different systems. The first shows a Hope with four pawls with 24 ratchet points. All four pawls engage at one time. The Hadley is very similar except it uses 6 pawls (offset so three engage at a time) with 36 ratchet points. Since the pawls are offset, it gives you 72 points of engagement. It then shows the DT and the King system. It shows and describes why the King system is the superior freehub design on the market.


Great video, thanks for posting it, I learned something today!


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## 29erchico (Jan 1, 2005)

kingair said:


> Don't forget that for I think around $30 you can get this little simple update that will give you 36 POE instead of 18 on those DT's. The update is simply a replacement star ratchet with finer teeth. You could buy the new star ratchet and replace it the first time you do some routine maintenance on the hub. You'll also need some dt swiss ratchet grease. Do a google search for 36 step star ratchet. Nice choice on a built proof hub!


I have a bunch of DT 440FR/DT Hugi FR hubs. I was interested in the 36 pt. star ratchets until I spoke with DT about them for clyde use. They strongly suggest that clydes stick to the 18 pt. ratchets for their greater toughness.


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## swopeti (Dec 12, 2009)

buy some kings and never look back. i an over 300 and never had a problem with mine match with some stans i am running the kings single speed


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## crazylemurboy (Dec 12, 2011)

What do you guys think about Phil Wood hubs for larger riders? Peter White recommends them for us big boys.


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## Badger242 (Mar 26, 2005)

I'm right about 300, and Phil Wood free hubs explode under the stress I put them through. Went through 3 hubs (6 free hub rings shattered) in 6 rides. My LBS swapped them out the first few times, and then sent the hub up to Phil Wood who replaced it. Phil Woods service was fantastic, but the free hub was garbage. I've since talked to a several tandem riders who've had similar issues. Replaced the Phil Wood with a Hadley and had zero problems for a three years (At which point the bike in question was stolen, for all I know it's still cruising around out there). Next wheel set I will either go Hadley again or Chris King (riding a single speed right now with some OEM hub and freewheel on it that has held up far better than I expected it to).


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

x2 for Hadley. I don't know what takes to break them, but I know that it's more than I can fathom at the moment.


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## crazylemurboy (Dec 12, 2011)

Badger242 said:


> I'm right about 300, and Phil Wood free hubs explode under the stress I put them through. Went through 3 hubs (6 free hub rings shattered) in 6 rides. My LBS swapped them out the first few times, and then sent the hub up to Phil Wood who replaced it. Phil Woods service was fantastic, but the free hub was garbage. I've since talked to a several tandem riders who've had similar issues. Replaced the Phil Wood with a Hadley and had zero problems for a three years (At which point the bike in question was stolen, for all I know it's still cruising around out there). Next wheel set I will either go Hadley again or Chris King (riding a single speed right now with some OEM hub and freewheel on it that has held up far better than I expected it to).


That is very surprising to hear. I have used a Phil Wood bottom bracket for a year now and its the only one that stands up the abuse I throw at it. Right now I'm riding on internal gears but I'm looking to set up a road bike with a cassette based wheel and having trouble selecting a hub... damn you, Internet. So many choices.

For those of you using Chris King hubs, did you choose the heavy duty version? How does this compare to the standard model? I am 220 lbs but I am fairly abusive to my hubs. I like to load up my bike with a LOT of weight.


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## Pitch (Aug 9, 2008)

crazylemurboy said:


> What do you guys think about Phil Wood hubs for larger riders? Peter White recommends them for us big boys.


Junk IMO. 3 Phil Wood failures in 2 years resulting in complete rebuilds. They provided great customer service, but I would rather not need to use it. Riding Kings now with legs spinning and fingers crossed


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

I use Phil Wood Touring hubs on my touring wheelset, they have pulled me and 20 to 30Kg in front and rear racks over thousands of kilometers and I have never once had an issue with them - they appear to be indestructible - cannot rate them highly enough


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## Badger242 (Mar 26, 2005)

crazylemurboy said:


> That is very surprising to hear. I have used a Phil Wood bottom bracket for a year now and its the only one that stands up the abuse I throw at it. Right now I'm riding on internal gears but I'm looking to set up a road bike with a cassette based wheel and having trouble selecting a hub... damn you, Internet. So many choices.


It seems like it's the newer Phil hubs (like the past 5 years or so) that have issues. I hear tails of incredibly long lasting ones out there still. My LBS was a little amazed I managed to kill them so consistently.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Maybe cheaper materials to maintain better prices are causing the quality to drop. Might even be less quality materials and Phil Woods doesn't even know it.


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## 29erchico (Jan 1, 2005)

Even with my love affair for 36h DT FR hubs I have bought a couple of 36h Transition Bikes rear hubs recently and find them really impressive with a reasonable price. Steel freehub body, stout steel axle, very easy to maintain and easy to switch from 135mm to 142x12mm. 32h is also available as well as a 150mm spacing version.


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## chugachjed (May 20, 2010)

Hadley hubs are awesome.


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## fatguy1 (Feb 11, 2010)

i was 300 lbs and use hadleys on my SS and zero problems.....and i will tell you a put a hurtin on them hubs


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## karstman1 (Jun 28, 2012)

Destroying pawls left and right was always a problem for me until I went with the hugi ratchet system (DT Swiss) in 1994. That hub has yet to fail.


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## AinsleyCruz (Mar 30, 2013)

I split my bearings in half on my hope pro in 5 rides, total junk if you ask me. im at a loss and considering giving up riding.

my next step i guess is to try the chris kings??


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## sanitaire (Jan 30, 2008)

I have a phil wood 36 hole hub. big flanges and slealed bearings. bin good. on a 14 gauge spoke on a ryno lite rim....spendy but good.


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