# Acid Etching Custom Head Badges



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

I wasn’t sure if I should post this thread in here (Frame Building) or in the General forum. There really isn’t an obvious choice for DIY head badges. In the end, I thought it might appeal more to the DIY folks in here rather than those in the General forum. Moderators, if you feel this thread should be in General (or some other forum) please feel free to move it accordingly…


I wanted to create custom made head badges for a couple of my mountain bikes. There were a lot of good examples when searching MTBR and the internet; but, nothing really stuck me as what I wanted (or that I had the skills to create). I knew I wanted the design to be my MTBR avatar. I decided against a sticker. And I don’t think I have the skill to engrave or cut out something with that much detail.

A few days later I was chatting with a friend and our conversation migrated over to PC board etching. PC board etching has been around for awhile (I’ve etched boards well over 20 years ago) and widely practiced by electronics hobbyists. I then did some research and found examples of people using modern day etching chemicals (muriatic acid) to etch aluminum. That’s how I was going to do it…


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

*Preparing the Badges & Toner Transfer

Google Search: "toner transfer"*

I found a suitable logo and did some basic manipulation in a photo editing software. I flipped the image (so it's a reverse image - you'll see why in a bit) and inverted the image.

The piece of aluminum stock was purchased at the local building supply store and was 48" L x 3/4" W x 1/16" D. I cut out four pieces of stock about 1" long.









Instead of using specialized toner transfer paper, I grabbed an old sheet of labels and peeled them all off. This left the silicone slick backing. I printed a sheet of my images onto the slick backing using a laser printer set to print on "overhead" sheets.









Using a fine grade steel wool, I brushed one side of each badge until it became nice and bright. Afterwards, I brushed the surface with a paper towel to remove any loose bits. Be sure not to touch the brushed surface with bare hands as it will prevent the toner from sticking.









Disclaimer: I'll spare you the long details of trial and error and provide what worked best for me. However, I will mention when I had to do something more than once and what I think I had done wrong on the previous attempts. Hopefully this will help someone learn from my mistakes. 

To successfully transfer the image from the paper to the aluminum badges took some practice. I cut out an image and placed it over the badge (toner side towards the badge) and then taped it (using painters tape) on the back.

















I put down a hard, flat, surface on my workbench (brass plate in my case) and the put a folded piece of cotton cloth on top of the surface. The aluminum badge was placed on top of the folded cloth (with the image side down - tape side up) and the hot iron (no steam settings) on top of the badge.









The idea is to heat up the aluminum so the toner will dislodge from the paper and adhere to the aluminum. After letting it heat up for awhile (60-90 seconds), I would give the iron a gentle push down onto the plate and the remove the iron. Then flip the badge over onto the bench to cool down (use gloves, it'll be darn hot).

While one was cooling I'd prep and work the next plate. As it starts to cool you might notice the image will become very "light". This is good as it indicates the toner has adhered to the aluminum and isn't on the paper any longer. Here's an example of one that has cooled (left) and one that just came off the hot plate (right).









Using this method I was able to successfully produce the transfers I wanted. There was a lot of do-over, though.









If the image didn't transfer properly, just grab that piece of steel wool and erase it right off. Tape a new image on and go at it again. Be patient and take your time. You'll eventually get what you're after.


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

*Chemically Etching the Aluminum Badges

Google Search: "hydrochloric acid etching aluminum"

Google Search: "neutralize and dispose of muriatic acid"

WARNING: This can be a very dangerous process if you're not careful. My description herein is not to be taken as a complete step-by-step process. *

The basic ingredients you'll need are 31% muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid), 3% hydrogen peroxide and baking soda (to neutralize the acid when done). Protective gear such as nitrile chemical resistant gloves, face shield, and an apron are highly recommended. You'll also need a measuring cup and bowl for the etchant.









The above photo was taken before I started the first batch. I ended up repeating the process two additional times and I learned a few things. Buy a larger box of baking soda than I have in the photo and have a 5-gallon bucket standing by for neutralizing the acid later.

Most of what I found for PC board etching (etching copper) recommended using 2 parts of hydrogen peroxide and 1 part of muriatic acid. What worked best for me was using 3 parts hydrogen peroxide and 1 part muriatic acid. The 2/1 solution was just too strong and would react violently enough to generate heat, lift the toner right off of the badges and ruin them. None of the badges in the first batch survived.

The 3/1 solution produced a much slower reaction and gave me the results I was after. It did take longer (about 30 minutes) to etch each badge down to the level I wanted. You don't have to use a lot. I measured out 6 ounces of peroxide and 2 ounces of muriatic acid and it was plenty enough to etch a badge.

It was interesting to watch the reaction. The initial acid solution is primarily clear (first photo). Once the badge is put in it turns to a dark grey (second photo) and eventually changes to a champagne color (third photo).





















On the floor beside the workbench I had a five gallon bucket with about 1-1/2 gallons of water and I dissolved a large amount of baking soda into the water. When the badge was done etching, I would remove it from the acid (using a plastic fork) and submerse it into the baking soda water. I then used an old tooth brush to scrub the submerged badge to neutralize any acid remaining on it.

When finished, I slowly poured the acid mixture into the baking soda water (mind the reaction). Once it settled down, I continued to add baking soda (slowly) until there was no further reaction. When neutralized, the mixture can be poured down the kitchen sink.

What I learned in the first batch was my mixture contained too much muriatic acid. I mixed the second batch at a lesser strength and successfully etched one plate. I then became all excited and put in the remaining three plates. The mixture heated up (due to the volume of the reaction) and it lifted the toner right off of the aluminum and ruined the remaining three plates. The final third time worked because I (A) used the weaker acid mixture and (B) only etched one badge at a time. I also disposed of the etchant and mixed new etchant for each subsequent badge.

Here are a couple of the better results.















Be sure to save any of the ruined badges. You can use them for practice when trying to bend them to the shape of the head tube&#8230;.


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## davesauvageau (Jan 8, 2010)

In Printmaking, artists etch copper plates for intaglio printing. This might work for you and there is information on it that is easy to find. Maybe check that out?

Intaglio (printmaking) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

*Bending and Painting*

I now need to bend one of them to fit the head tube. I cut a piece of 2x3 at a 45* angle and attached the two pieces together like this.















I taped the badge into the V and also taped up the head tube to prevent it from being scratched.















I placed the block against the head tube and gently (but firmly) tapped the block with a mallet until the aluminum started to bend. I had to reposition the badge and the block a few times to get the desired result. Again, be patient and work with the badges you ruined during the etching process. I also used a different bike to test just so I could be sure I wouldn't be denting the frame. 















After the badge is in the proper shape, I washed it down using TSP and a brush, thoroughly rinsed, and let it dry completely. I taped off the back and gave it a single good coat of black appliance epoxy. I used the same black appliance epoxy to paint my fork lowers.


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

*Brushing and Application*

After letting the painted badge dry for 24 hours, it was now time to remove the paint from the raised areas. I used a brass wire wheel attached to a dremel on the lowest speed setting. I very gently touched the spinning wheel to the raised ridges and the paint came right off.















To apply the badge I used some E-6000 adhesive (the same adhesive I used to hold in some cable guides here). Clamp the badge to the head tube for 10-15 minutes and we're all done&#8230;









Here are some images of a completed badge on my 1994 GT Karakoram.





















I'll be using one of the remaining badges on my 1995 GT Aggressor next weekend.

Let me know if you have any questions, I'll do my best to answer them.


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

That is pretty cool.


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## vulture (Jan 13, 2004)

Awesome Post! I dig it when people show what they are doing. Way to figure it out yourself!


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

davesauvageau said:


> In Printmaking, artists etch copper plates for intaglio printing. This might work for you and there is information on it that is easy to find. Maybe check that out?
> 
> Intaglio (printmaking) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Very neat, I didn't know about that. Thank you.


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

the-one1 said:


> Edit: typed too slow to see new posts.




I tried to post it all up as quickly as possible. You guys still beat me to the punch. :thumbsup:


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

vulture said:


> Awesome Post! I dig it when people show what they are doing. Way to figure it out yourself!


Thank you! Half the fun is the trip getting there.


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## Clockwork Bikes (Jun 17, 2006)

Great post! I started looking into making head badges like this with copper and brass but never got past watching Youtube videos.

Here's two I bookmarked:

Copper Etching on Copper with Sherri Haab - YouTube

Brass How to Etch a Brass Name Plate Part 1 - YouTube
and
How to Etch a Brass Name Plate Part 2 - YouTube

-Joel


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## ferday (Jan 15, 2004)

Really great post, thanks!


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## dr.welby (Jan 6, 2004)

I etch copper and brass, using the toner transfer trick, but I just print it on to glossy magazine paper and then soak it off once it cools.

To etch the metal, I use PCB etchant with a little citric acid which gives a deeper etch.


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## Hutch3637 (Jul 1, 2011)

Great write up and even better results with your quest to make your custom head badge.


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## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

Nice job !!! Looks awesome :thumbsup:


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## unterhausen (Sep 28, 2008)

that's a really nice job. Last time I looked into this there were a ton of people doing it, which really surprised me.


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Thank you all for the kind words!



dr.welby said:


> I etch copper and brass, using the toner transfer trick, but I just print it on to glossy magazine paper and then soak it off once it cools.
> 
> To etch the metal, I use PCB etchant with a little citric acid which gives a deeper etch.


That looks fantastic and I'm very interested in what you used to etch it. The last PCB etchant I used (a _long_ time ago) was from Radio Shack. Are you using something different?

Searching for PCB etchant and citric acid turns up the phrase "Edinburg Etch". Am I headed down the correct path?



unterhausen said:


> that's a really nice job. Last time I looked into this there were a ton of people doing it, which really surprised me.


I don't doubt there are. I'm mediocre at best with my search abilities. I'll be taking note of anyone else on here that etches so I can pepper them with questions and make my next batch look a little less "utilitarian".


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## dr.welby (Jan 6, 2004)

marpilli said:


> That looks fantastic and I'm very interested in what you used to etch it. The last PCB etchant I used (a _long_ time ago) was from Radio Shack. Are you using something different?
> 
> Searching for PCB etchant and citric acid turns up the phrase "Edinburg Etch". Am I headed down the correct path?


That's the stuff. It's just RatShack PCB solution (ferric chloride?) and some citric acid powder from the homebrew store.


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## red dog bikes (Aug 10, 2011)

Awesome stuff! I was laying out a design to cut my copper headtube badge using a jewelers saw, but after this thread, I'll have to look at etching as another option. 
Thanks for sharing!


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

dr.welby said:


> That's the stuff. It's just RatShack PCB solution (ferric chloride?) and some citric acid powder from the homebrew store.


What's the ratio (or quantity) of citric acid powder to PCB solution? I'll definitely be giving it a try. Time to make some custom head badges for my kid's bikes.


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

red dog bikes said:


> Awesome stuff! I was laying out a design to cut my copper headtube badge using a jewelers saw, but after this thread, I'll have to look at etching as another option.
> Thanks for sharing!


Thank you. I read through a post where someone made a great head tube badge using a jewelers saw (a bulldog design?). I just didn't think I had the skills to cut it out by hand. Iron-on and acid seemed like more fun, anyway.


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## MDEnvEngr (Mar 11, 2004)

Wicked Cool! Thanks for sharing! B


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## jay_ntwr (Feb 15, 2008)

Wow, great thread, Marpilli! What part of Dallas are you in? I'm up in Richardson.


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

MDEnvEngr said:


> Wicked Cool! Thanks for sharing! B


Thank you!



jay_ntwr said:


> Wow, great thread, Marpilli! What part of Dallas are you in? I'm up in Richardson.


Thanks! I'm up in the Frisco area. I've seen your avatar on the DORBA site. It's always nice to meet a 'neighbor' here on MTBR.


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## Feldybikes (Feb 17, 2004)

This thread has to be my all time winner for going in with low expectations and coming away super impressed. I thought it was going to be some questions about maybe kinda sorta having an idea to do something and wondering if it would work, but then I see step-by-step instructions and a rad finished result. Very nice work!


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## todwil (Feb 1, 2007)

Thanks for sharing cool thread:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## jay_ntwr (Feb 15, 2008)

marpilli said:


> Thanks! I'm up in the Frisco area. I've seen your avatar on the DORBA site. It's always nice to meet a 'neighbor' here on MTBR.


Next time we have open shop night, I'll be sure to ping you. It's typically just off of 190 so it wouldn't be too far of a drive if you were interested.


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## whydomylegshurt? (Jul 28, 2004)

I've done a very similar process to making head badges. I personally found it easier to remove the paint off the high spots before bending the head badge. That way I can just use sand paper on a flat surface.


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

jay_ntwr said:


> Next time we have open shop night, I'll be sure to ping you. It's typically just off of 190 so it wouldn't be too far of a drive if you were interested.


Yes, please do let me know. I'll drive out if my schedule permits.



whydomylegshurt? said:


> I've done a very similar process to making head badges. I personally found it easier to remove the paint off the high spots before bending the head badge. That way I can just use sand paper on a flat surface.


I wondered about this. I feared the paint would chip and/or crack during the bending process. I guess this wasn't an issue? What method did you use to bend the badge?


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Holy Sh*t! You're always doing something awesome!


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> Holy Sh*t! You're always doing something awesome!


Aw, you make me blush. :blush: Seriously, thank you.

Also, thank you to those that left me +rep on this thread. Next time please sign your name and I'll keep an eye out for your helpful posts and return the favor. 

Here's the second (and last for now) I put on my other MTB.















If anyone creates something using these ideas, let me know how it turned out (post up a photo or two). And, be sure to let me know if you figured out a better way of doing some part of the process.


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## crux (Jan 10, 2004)

marpilli said:


> Here's the second (and last for now) I put on my other MTB.


Both look great. Wonder if one could make a metal part using this process? Thinking that if I could add something custom for people with the inlayed top caps.... Parts would need to be small, but looks like the process gives you quite a bit of detail.

http://forums.mtbr.com/members/crux/albums/top-caps-custom-components/


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

crux said:


> Both look great. Wonder if one could make a metal part using this process? Thinking that if I could add something custom for people with the inlayed top caps.... Parts would need to be small, but looks like the process gives you quite a bit of detail.
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/members/crux/albums/top-caps-custom-components/


Thank you. Those top caps in your photo gallery look wonderful! I've always said I do "paint grade" work. That stuff you're doing is "stain grade". 

The width of the badge is 3/4" and I think the image can be fairly detailed. I'm happy with the end result; but, I do kind of wish the lines were cleaner. The badges match my bikes well (the bikes are rough around the edges). If I were going to try and make one for someone else I'd want it to be near perfect.

A few posts up you'll find a photo showing the copper etching done by dr.welby. If/when I try to etch aluminum again, I'll give his etching solution a try and see if the aluminum badge comes out any better than using the muriatic acid.


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## dr.welby (Jan 6, 2004)

marpilli said:


> The width of the badge is 3/4" and I think the image can be fairly detailed ..... If/when I try to etch aluminum again, I'll give his etching solution a try and see if the aluminum badge comes out any better than using the muriatic acid.


The biker guy on my badge is actually a half-toned image. If you think of how detailed PCB traces are you can see how detailed you can get.

Also, with etching solution you can touch up missing spots in the toner with a paint or sharpie pen. You can also do the work freehand, either by drawing the positive with a pen or exposing the negative with a pin or scribe.


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

dr.welby said:


> The biker guy on my badge is actually a half-toned image. If you think of how detailed PCB traces are you can see how detailed you can get.
> 
> Also, with etching solution you can touch up missing spots in the toner with a paint or sharpie pen. You can also do the work freehand, either by drawing the positive with a pen or exposing the negative with a pin or scribe.


On my first attempt, one of the head badges didn't have complete toner coverage and I did use a sharpie to fill in the lines a bit. The muriatic acid ate right through the sharpie spots. I believe I had the initial concentration too strong. Nonetheless, I suspect the combination I used (muriatic acid and aluminum stock) probably isn't well suited for fine detail work.

I noticed you masked a large area and left the wording and image exposed. I did the opposite. It's possible that using a large masked area with the muriatic/aluminum combination might have yielded better results.

I have a couple of other bike and home projects I need to tend to over the next few months. But, I'm already making a list of etchant/metal stock combinations to try out when I have some free time. 

Regarding the head badge you posted. Did you use anything to darken the etched areas? Or, is that color a natural consequence of the etchant?


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## dr.welby (Jan 6, 2004)

marpilli said:


> Regarding the head badge you posted. Did you use anything to darken the etched areas? Or, is that color a natural consequence of the etchant?


In that photo it's black sharpie pen. But over the years I've let a patina develop instead and periodically buff the top area to make it lighter.


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## thehammertownhead (Jan 23, 2011)

Nice work!!!

Hopefully I will get to use this info one day to make my own.

Thanks for the info!


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

You're always doing very cool stuff Marpilli and sharing it with others :thumbsup: I'd + rep ya, but seems I don't spread enough love around to hit ya again  Might ask you do do a badge or two for me maybe in the future, but first I'll see if I can find the ingredients down here to try it myself.


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## Mr.Magura (Aug 11, 2010)

This thread has for some reason escaped my attention till now 

Anyhow, great work there Marp!

I have done this as well, using copper instead though. 

What I did, was the opposite of you, and filled the etched part with colored epoxy. 

A few years back i also did some CNC machined batches, but to be honest I liked the etched versions better. 

Watch out if you do the aluminum etching indoors, as it will corrode anything in the room!

If I could figure how to etch titanium, I'd have a few great ideas, as anodizing titanium in all kinds of hefty colors, is real easy, and if bead blasted before anodizing, it looks like silk.


Magura


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Mr Magura: Is there anything you CAN'T do?


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## Mr.Magura (Aug 11, 2010)

the-one1 said:


> Mr Magura: Is there anything you CAN'T do?


According to the Mrs., yes quite a lot! 

Magura


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Mr.Magura said:


> ...
> Anyhow, great work there Marp!
> ...
> Watch out if you do the aluminum etching indoors, as it will corrode anything in the room!
> ...


Thank you. You're absolutely correct regarding the caustic fumes from the muriatic acid. There were quite a few warnings I read about how it would corrode any steel in the area quickly. I didn't say this in the write up but I did have the garage door open and a fan going while the acid was exposed.

I'll definitely be experimenting with copper and/or the PCB etchant at some point in the future. I might make some head badges for the kid's bikes using an image of their choice.


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## Jon Richard (Dec 20, 2011)

Marpili, thanks for posting this. I am building a table top mill for engraving and was considering an etch-O-matic to compliment items with a kind of mixed media look. Permanently Mark or Etch Anything Metal in Seconds for Pennies- Etch-O-Matic.

Plus, for a time I was interested in PCB's for a fused headlight relay board I wanted to make for an old '62 Falcon I'm restoring so you really peaked my interest. +rep coming your way when I can.

crux, those are some very nice top caps :thumbsup:

And dr. webly, I just can't seem to find the bowing down emoticon to express how impressive that badge is.


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## drunkinCO (Jan 24, 2009)

Fantastic post! thanks for the inspiration, off to the local Depot now...


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## Feldybikes (Feb 17, 2004)

Mr.Magura said:


> If I could figure how to etch titanium, I'd have a few great ideas, as anodizing titanium in all kinds of hefty colors, is real easy, and if bead blasted before anodizing, it looks like silk.


I think if you used a photo resist to pattern the titanium (such things can be purchased from t-shirt screen printing suppliers), I think you could then anodize the unprotected areas to get the pattern.

For those who don't know what I'm talking about, here's a place to start:
Photoresist - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


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## NicoleB (Jul 21, 2011)

just saw this. nice job Marp!


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## CHUM (Aug 30, 2004)

Super Cool post!


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## BigHank53 (May 19, 2011)

The problem with etching titanium is that it's extremely nonreactive--that's why it gets used for artificial joints and dental implants. The only thing I know of that etches titanium reliably is hydrofluoric acid, which is so freakin' dangerous that playing with rattlesnakes looks sane in comparison.

What you can do is get an "air eraser", a tiny little sandblaster that looks like an airbrush. Mask with standard sign vinyl and blast away. It gives a nice etched look on a polished surface.


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## Mr.Magura (Aug 11, 2010)

BigHank53 said:


> The problem with etching titanium is that it's extremely nonreactive--that's why it gets used for artificial joints and dental implants. The only thing I know of that etches titanium reliably is hydrofluoric acid, which is so freakin' dangerous that playing with rattlesnakes looks sane in comparison.
> 
> What you can do is get an "air eraser", a tiny little sandblaster that looks like an airbrush. Mask with standard sign vinyl and blast away. It gives a nice etched look on a polished surface.


I just had a similar notion today. I have access to a bead blaster.

With some patience, this could do the trick, if as you proposed, some relatively heavy vinyl film is used for masking.

Gotta try that sometime soon.

Magura


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## Crispy01 (May 4, 2011)

BigHank53 said:


> The problem with etching titanium is that it's extremely nonreactive--that's why it gets used for artificial joints and dental implants. The only thing I know of that etches titanium reliably is hydrofluoric acid, which is so freakin' dangerous that playing with rattlesnakes looks sane in comparison.
> 
> What you can do is get an "air eraser", a tiny little sandblaster that looks like an airbrush. Mask with standard sign vinyl and blast away. It gives a nice etched look on a polished surface.


It might be easier to get the Ti Lazer etched at your local lazer cutter. 
Just a idea.

The only reason I have not done any is I still cant figure out what I want on my head badge.... 6 frames in and still clueless..... :madman:


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## crazy8 (Apr 21, 2009)

In order to etch titanium you need either alum oxide or silicon carbide, glass bead just won't do it.



Mr.Magura said:


> I just had a similar notion today. I have access to a bead blaster.
> 
> With some patience, this could do the trick, if as you proposed, some relatively heavy vinyl film is used for masking.
> 
> ...


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## crazy8 (Apr 21, 2009)

BTW great thread and nice stuff marpilli!


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## Mr.Magura (Aug 11, 2010)

crazy8 said:


> In order to etch titanium you need either alum oxide or silicon carbide, glass bead just won't do it.


Thanks for the heads up.

Magura


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## Smudgemo (Nov 30, 2005)

**&^%$#! I had to check this thread.*

Now I'm going to have to swing by Otto Frei, Staples and Radio Shack so I can make a head tube badge this weekend. Well, at least the process can double as fodder for my daughter's next science fair project.

Nice job and nice write-up to the OP.


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## whydomylegshurt? (Jul 28, 2004)

marpilli said:


> Yes, please do let me know. I'll drive out if my schedule permits.
> 
> I wondered about this. I feared the paint would chip and/or crack during the bending process. I guess this wasn't an issue? What method did you use to bend the badge?


Hey Marpilli,

I didn't have any issue with the paint, but I was wondering if I would before I tried it. I bent the badge pretty much the same as you. Instead of using a V-block, I used a hole saw on a 4x4 then cut that in half. I use a piece of 1" head tube stock to press the badges into the wood "form" in my vise.


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## sandmangts (Feb 16, 2004)

I have to ask, Marpilli I saw a guy at Disneyland on Wednesday with your headbadge as a tattoo. Any chance that was you?


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

sandmangts said:


> I have to ask, Marpilli I saw a guy at Disneyland on Wednesday with your headbadge as a tattoo. Any chance that was you?


Nope, it wasn't me. Must have been one of my fans. 

The headbadge image is actually a logo for one of my all time favorite bands. If he had it tattooed, then his level of admiration for them far exceeds mine. :thumbsup:


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## TgMN (Aug 22, 2006)

marpilli said:


> Nope, it wasn't me. Must have been one of my fans.
> 
> The headbadge image is actually a logo for one of my all time favorite bands. If he had it tattooed, then his level of admiration for them far exceeds mine. :thumbsup:


SD just announced their fall tour. No TX stops though. I've thought about using the logo as a small discreet decal on my top tube, just to see who notices. Maybe the next bike.


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## sandmangts (Feb 16, 2004)

I am a big fan of Social D, I am ashamed to say I had no idea that was the logo.


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## gren737 (May 10, 2008)

OMG I want a Social D headbadge! That is freaking awesome. Great job!

I have seriously considered getting a skelly tattoo for quite some time and still might do it. 

Any chance you'd consider selling one? That'd look GREAT on my black Nomad. 

ps - it looks like you added material w/your acid etch (hardened the ink I'm guessing) you can also remove metal with the right etch as well.


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## sandmangts (Feb 16, 2004)

I tried one on copper. It came out pretty good. I specifically wanted it to look old because it is going on a 1936 Elgin. I etched it and then used krylon semi-gloss black. I then wet sanded the paint off the raised areas for contrast. Then I sprayed on an enamel tarnish shield which gave it the cracked paint look and patina to the copper. I will keep experimenting but this one looks ok.


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

^^^ I think it looks great! I'm still impressed with how much detail you guys can get using the copper.


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## sandmangts (Feb 16, 2004)

I can tell you the transfer process is much more difficult onto copper. The paper I use transfers to aluminum like a dream and when you soak it it just comes right off leaving a nice transfer. On copper however it does not stick as well. The paper to use is staples color laser paper gloss finish heavyweight item # 633215. $13 dollars for 300 sheets. 
This one is a little better.


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## Rabies010 (Jan 20, 2011)

Cool thread !

And if you are using alminum, you might take it to the next level : 
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/anodising-home-745450.html


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## sandmangts (Feb 16, 2004)

Got them cut and shaped today. I found the best method for shaping was to use a pipe that is just under the desired diameter, wrap the badge in paper and masking tape. tape it to the pipe or tube and just gently tap it with a rubber mallet. Then when you pull it off it will spread a little and fit just right onto the larger diameter head tube.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Man, those really do look very nice, you should be quite proud. Heck I think you could earn lots of free beers or some cash _(depending on which you prefer more)_ from making these for friends and other riders in the area.



sandmangts said:


> Got them cut and shaped today. I found the best method for shaping was to use a pipe that is just under the desired diameter, wrap the badge in paper and masking tape. tape it to the pipe or tube and just gently tap it with a rubber mallet. Then when you pull it off it will spread a little and fit just right onto the larger diameter head tube.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

marpilli said:


> Disclaimer: I'll spare you the long details of trial and error and provide what worked best for me. However, I will mention when I had to do something more than once and what I think I had done wrong on the previous attempts. Hopefully this will help someone learn from my mistakes.


:thumbsup:

Etch looks great!


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## Idiot Wind (Sep 8, 2008)

So yeah, I'm digging up this thead. Why? I was googling custom headbadge shops because I wanted a custom image of....

that exact same headbadge (Social D)! I just simply found that bizarre.

Anyway, nice work marpilli. Great taste in tunes. I may have to think of a new design


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## Rabies010 (Jan 20, 2011)

Hopefully i will be able to give it a try as well within a few weeks.
I want to make a headbadge of the tattoo that is shown in my avatar.
(it's a pawprint from my dog who died last year)


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Idiot Wind said:


> So yeah, I'm digging up this thead. Why? I was googling custom headbadge shops because I wanted a custom image of....
> 
> that exact same headbadge (Social D)! I just simply found that bizarre.
> 
> Anyway, nice work marpilli. Great taste in tunes. I may have to think of a new design


Thank you. I don't think it's that bizarre... They do have a few fans around, you know? 

If that's the design you like, use it! I'd like to see how it turns out. I might end up copying _your_ design. 



Rabies010 said:


> Hopefully i will be able to give it a try as well within a few weeks.
> I want to make a headbadge of the tattoo that is shown in my avatar.
> (it's a pawprint from my dog who died last year)


That would be awesome. I wondered about your avatar; but, I never asked. Lots of good ideas in this thread. Whatever you end up doing, please post up a pic when done. :thumbsup:


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## Rabies010 (Jan 20, 2011)

marpilli said:


> That would be awesome. I wondered about your avatar; but, I never asked. Lots of good ideas in this thread. Whatever you end up doing, please post up a pic when done. :thumbsup:


I'm busy getting a storage space in a flat where some friends of mine live.
And another friend has his workplace there as well, he has a little metalshop and the proper ventilation to suck away those nasty fumes.
And if i make one i will certainly post it here.

As fro the tattoo...
When my dog was 7 months old, i used his paw as a stamp and put it on paper, traced the outlines, and had a friend place the tattoo.
The tattoo is 11 years old now and has been touched up twice by the same friend that has the little metalshop.
And after my dog died i took some of his ashes and had them mixed with ink, and that was used to place a little banner with his date of birth and death beneath the pawprint.
This way he will be with me forever.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

WOW, that's so very touching and sad to hear, always good to see other dog lovers out their who really love their friends like this. Hope that happy happenstance happens again and you maybe find yourself a new little best friend. Have/Did you post a pic in the trail dog thread? If you didn't I think you should, along with the story, those who participate in that thread I'm sure would appreciate it. FYI, I just rescued my 4th little best friend and possibly a 5th on the way.



Rabies010 said:


> ...............As fro the tattoo...
> When my dog was 7 months old, i used his paw as a stamp and put it on paper, traced the outlines, and had a friend place the tattoo.
> The tattoo is 11 years old now and has been touched up twice by the same friend that has the little metalshop.
> And after my dog died i took some of his ashes and had them mixed with ink, and that was used to place a little banner with his date of birth and death beneath the pawprint.
> This way he will be with me forever.


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## Rabies010 (Jan 20, 2011)

Nope, i never posted in that thread.
Mainly because i never have a chance to take him on a proper trail ride.
he was a bit of a wild one when it came to taking him for a ride, and a leash only created extra problems.
I was planning on building a trailer for him so i could take him on a multi day ride.
I opened a thread in the fatbike forum on that one, if you're interested. 

And when the time comes i am getting a new buddy.
I'm not planning anything, but i will know when it's the right time when it comes.


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## adarn (Aug 11, 2009)

Here are a couple that I made. It turns out you can just draw stuff on the copper with sharpie paint pens, and that seems to work out alright.









and filled in

















Thanks for the great how-to!


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## Mr.Magura (Aug 11, 2010)

Nice badge there.

Just a heads up.

It only works with permanent non-water based markers, and only the black ones, as they have solids in the ink.

Paint markers are to prefer, gives much nicer results.

Magura


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## Cheakas (Feb 2, 2006)

Well done on the headbadge. I'd like to try something like this and I'm also in Dallas. What is the local source for the aluminum flat stock in 1/16"? I can find only 1/8" locally.


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Cheakas said:


> Well done on the headbadge. I'd like to try something like this and I'm also in Dallas. What is the local source for the aluminum flat stock in 1/16"? I can find only 1/8" locally.


Thanks. I'm fairly sure it was Home Depot. I'll see if I can find the receipt.

If you're near the far north area, I'll give you some stock as well as a gallon of the muractic acid. You gotta buy that stuff in a box with two one-gallon containers. I have more than I'll ever us.


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## Cheakas (Feb 2, 2006)

That's sounds great. Let me figure a time when I can get away from the shop for a bit.


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## mps2220 (Jan 18, 2008)

great job Marpilli, but how are you with DSLAM's?


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

mps2220 said:


> great job Marpilli, but how are you with DSLAM's?


:lol: You want me to etch one? 

I'm good at building potato launchers, also. But, you already know that. :thumbsup:


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## sandmangts (Feb 16, 2004)

I did a few more. This time I used a thinner more flexible sheet of aluminum. I used red devil lye and soaked about 30 minutes. Got a nice deep etch. The toner transfer worked fine. Be advised though, Lye will eat right through sharpie marker ink. I am pretty happy with the results. Aluminum is much easier than brass or copper. The sheet cost me 2 dollars at the scrap yard. Lye cost 8 bucks and I have enough to last for years. It is also great for unclogging drains, stripping anodization from aluminum and making pickles. I used it for my latest project, a 1936 Elgin that I modified to run disk brakes and modern suspension and gearing.


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## adarn (Aug 11, 2009)

Sweet badge! And Klunker!!


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Thanks marpilli !!*

Here are my first attempts -



































> You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to marpilli again.


****


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## Clockwork Bikes (Jun 17, 2006)

Just got a few samples from the laser cutter and so far so good. I was worried the lasered edge wouldn't accept the silver, but it worked fine.


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

scar, did you do that using acid etching? It looks fantastic. What did you use to fill-in the color?

Clockwork, that logo is great and the laser cut emblem is sharp. Do you own the laser cutter?


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

*** NOTE ***

I just noticed there are several images missing from my original posts. If you have any questions just ask here or PM me and I'll point you to a location where the images have been re-posted.


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## Clockwork Bikes (Jun 17, 2006)

marpilli said:


> scar, did you do that using acid etching? It looks fantastic. What did you use to fill-in the color?
> 
> Clockwork, that logo is great and the laser cut emblem is sharp. Do you own the laser cutter?


My wife would definitely not be cool with a laser cutter in the house. I actually got the original quote for water jet cutting and the guy talked me into laser cutting since the tolerance is .001" as opposed to .030".
I was worried about the burnt edges but they used nitrogen as the shield gas for a nice clean edge. They were about $5 each including the 18g 304 stainless.

-Joel


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Really $5 each? Is this a friends-only price or would he offer that to the general public? 

What type if artwork file did you have to provide?


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## Clockwork Bikes (Jun 17, 2006)

Laser cutting, 24 hour quotes, parts in one week.

That was the price at qty. 50, qty. 25 was $8.00 and I didn't get any qtys. below that quoted. They just need a .dwg or .dxf file. If you've got some other type of 3D modeling file I can probably convert it for you.

-Joel


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Excellent information, thank you!


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## Tone's (Nov 12, 2011)

Killer thread, gee i miss marps, come back brother......


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## Tone's (Nov 12, 2011)

marpilli said:


> Excellent information, thank you!


Hold on, you are back you bloody legend, you have been seriously missed bro, lifes short mate, please come back for good marps..

Love n a big man hug from your bro Tones


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

marpilli said:


> scar, did you do that using acid etching? It looks fantastic. What did you use to fill-in the color?


Thanks marpilli. Yes I did acid etch. I did the laser print onto overhead transparency version and got it to work quite well after a couple of tries. I inverted my artwork and did the opposite of what you did, I etched in my artwork and you etched around your artwork (does that make sense?). I then painted the whole thing black and then removed the paint from the high surfaces (sanded on a flat plate).

Got some PnP Blue Transfer Film on order to give a try.

***


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Man, those look good!


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## Live Wire (Aug 27, 2007)

scar said:


> Got some PnP Blue Transfer Film on order to give a try.
> 
> ***


Did it work?


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## golden boy (Oct 29, 2008)

Fantastic work here, guys! Very inspiring. Marpilli, thanks for initiating this amazing thread.

My wife is a metalsmith and just did her first acid-etched copper bracelets last weekend. Hmmm.....


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## Tone's (Nov 12, 2011)

RIP Marpilli on MTBR, very very disappointing he has been banned, a great contributor to the site for a long time, he would have forgotten more about bikes than i will ever know.....

We miss ya mate.....


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

WTF why banned?


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## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

Deerhill said:


> WTF why banned?


That is an old story now. He published his article here: DIY Custom Etched Headbadge | HuckingKitty!

You can leave him a message over there if you like his work.


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## unterhausen (Sep 28, 2008)

usually bannings like that happen after someone flames out, which would probably result in some number of problematic postings being deleted to avoid further problems. So unless you saw it happen real-time, you will never know. 

Too bad, this was a really good thread. Or is it a time-limited ban?


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## Tone's (Nov 12, 2011)

unterhausen said:


> usually bannings like that happen after someone flames out, which would probably result in some number of problematic postings being deleted to avoid further problems. So unless you saw it happen real-time, you will never know.
> 
> Too bad, this was a really good thread. Or is it a time-limited ban?


There was no flaming involved, yes i saw it and no its not time limited..


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## Rabies010 (Jan 20, 2011)

You all know that you can change your user title yourself, right ?
It looks like Marpilli has changed it himself.


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## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

Rabies010 said:


> You all know that you can change your user title yourself, right ?
> It looks like Marpilli has changed it himself.


Are you suggesting Marps is a liar?

Try to modify your title to "banned" and see what happens, smartarse.


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## Brewtality (Jul 25, 2007)

Rabies010 said:


> You all know that you can change your user title yourself, right ?
> It looks like Marpilli has changed it himself.


You have no idea of who or what you're talking about. 
There was a lot of drama and MTBR is a weaker website because of it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CHUM (Aug 30, 2004)

just to clarify/reiterate.

1. OP was perma-banned some time ago (this is not new News)
2. You can change your user title...but not to 'banned'.

Back on topic please - I don't want the Frame Building Mod to hassle me for lounging in his hood


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## David C (May 25, 2011)

My honest opinion is MTBR (and even more some of the moderators' decisions and behaviors) sucks real bad for banning such members.

On the other hand, it's just an Internet forum full of childish users, so in the end I could care less. Just that for trying to establish the best bike forum in the world, this isn't a very good way to go.

CHUM, I think you're still on the right side of the trail


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

unterhausen said:


> usually bannings like that happen after someone flames out, which would probably result in some number of problematic postings being deleted to avoid further problems. So unless you saw it happen real-time, you will never know.
> 
> Too bad, this was a really good thread. Or is it a time-limited ban?


Nother good thread http://forums.mtbr.com/tooltime/diy-fork-bushing-removal-installation-772499.html


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