# Chain Saw



## crux (Jan 10, 2004)

I'm considering buying a chain saw for around the home, however when needed I'd like something that I could use for clearing dead fall on the trail. What Chain Saw would be recommended?

I used the search function and came up asking more questions than answers thus far.


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## nemhed (May 2, 2010)

The Stihl MS290 Farm Boss with a 20" bar is what I have at home and my fire department has two of them. These are a great middle of the road saw that will last for years and won't break the bank. The dealer where I got mine is one block away from my office so I don't have to drive all over for parts and service. As always, JMHO, YRMV:thumbsup: .


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## TunicaTrails (Jun 29, 2009)

The MS260 Pro (now MS261) with a 16" bar may be the best Stihl midrange saw. It's totable, and with respect to the MS290, The MS260 Pro/261 is actually more durable and easier to start (note that it's graded "professional use" and not "occasional use" on the website. 

Most people look at bar length first, but it's best to use the shortest bar that you'll need regularly. This gives the saw less of its own weight to pull and less weight and size for you to carry. It makes smaller saws cut faster.

Budget for one or two extra chains, eye and ear protection, chaps and a helmet preferably, a gallon jug of bar oil, and several refills of 2-stroke oil mixture kept in its own 2.5 gallon or 1-gallon container. Also use high octane fuel to keep it running best, and regularly clean the air filter between jobs.

I personally love my Beast chainsaw, the Stihl MS361 with a 20" bar, after using many different Stihl models, but I use it as much for cutting home firewood. It's pretty heavy to hike in. I've even been known to strap it to a dolly for long hikes.


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## nemhed (May 2, 2010)

TunicaTrails said:


> Most people look at bar length first, but it's best to use the shortest bar that you'll need regularly.


Good point, make sure you compare engine displacement and recommended bar length when looking at different saws. This thread will probably turn into Stihl vs. Husqvarna thing, but when I was comparing the two brands, the Huskys seemed to use a slightly smaller engine displacement at a higher operating RPM compared to the equivalent Stihl saws. Plus it seems like everyone I know has an MS290.


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## Jrkimbrough (Sep 27, 2008)

check out echo-usa.com

Great equipment, great warranty......just make sure you buy from a dealer who can do warranty work. Home depot sells them but will have to ship it off , etc. if you have a warranty issue.


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## TunicaTrails (Jun 29, 2009)

Stihl vs. Husqvarna is a win-win, although muddying the water are the low-end Huskys being sold at big box stores. Other than those two brands, there's Dolmar. Any other brands are probably not going to be a good investment long-term. 

I have an Echo collecting dust in my workshop; I would love to use it for light work but it's not worth the trouble. Cheap chainsaws are notorious for not wanting to start and dying when you have plenty of work to do.


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## ebxtreme (Jan 6, 2004)

First off, I don't advise going bigger than 16" for a trail or home saw. You'll be able to cut 95% of the stuff you'll encounter with that size. Hiking with a bigger saw is a PITA, I prefer a lighter more maneuverable saw.

I've got a Tanaka which has ran great for 2 years and I just gave it's first tune up. Dolmar's are nice. The Husky's and Stihl's are great. We just got a Mini Boss with a 16" bar and that thing cuts great.

I think the "default" trail builder saw is usually the MS 180 which we also have a couple of....

EB


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## HypNoTic (Jan 30, 2007)

I used to have a Jonsered2045 that got stolen last year. It was a semi-pro chainsaw, 45cc with a 16" bar. It was a great saw with plenty of power for smaller use, such a clearing branches off the corridor, but it kept dying in hardwood. Now that I'm used to my Husky 357XP (pro grade chainsaw), I'm not going back to a semi-pro saw.

I'm looking to replace the 2045 with something lighter than the 357XP but that can run for extended period of time. The Sthil 261 is a model I'm considering.

BTW, the trick to run Husky is the use high-octane fuel (Super, not Plus) to help rev up the engine.


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## nemhed (May 2, 2010)

TunicaTrails said:


> Stihl vs. Husqvarna is a win-win, although muddying the water are the low-end Huskys being sold at big box stores.


Yeah, I forgot about the dept. store Huskys, that sends up a big red flag whenever I see a brand start that. The ironic thing is I used and abused one of those $130 Walmart Poulans for like 5 years to cut all my firewood, and it ran great until it didn't, then it was disposable.


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## Fattirewilly (Dec 10, 2001)

nemhed said:


> The Stihl MS290 Farm Boss with a 20" bar is what I have at home and my fire department has two of them. These are a great middle of the road saw that will last for years and won't break the bank. The dealer where I got mine is one block away from my office so I don't have to drive all over for parts and service. As always, JMHO, YRMV:thumbsup: .


I own a MS 290. It's the most popular Stihl and it's what someone who doesn't know better buys when they're looking for the bigger saw at a smaller price, that was me 5 years ago.

Stihl is a great brand but if I had it to do over I'd purchase based on power to weight ratio of the powerhead. The MS 250 has great power to weight ratio and likely my next saw. The 290 is the about 1.5 pounds heavier than the 261 which has the same power. The 362 weighs the same and has quite a bit more power.


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## Walt Dizzy (Aug 18, 2003)

I don't have anything to compare to, but my Stihl MS 280 C has been great. It always starts, has enough power to run an 18" bar, and has not broken after 4 years of trail work.

I always carry a spare chain. It's duct taped (inside the plastic box) to the sheath. I have 2 more spares back at the park garage. I learned to sharpen my own with a file, but take the chains in yearly for a pro sharpening.

It is a bit much to hike with after a few hours. A smaller saw would work for 95% of the stuff I need to cut.

Walt


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## th29 (Nov 4, 2004)

Anybody else ever owned an "arborist" saw (top-mounted throttle)? I own several saws ranging from 14" to 20", and 99% of the time, the first saw I grab is an old echo CS-300 arborist saw with a 14" bar. It's specifically designed for professional arborists who spend most of their time on the move, trimming back limbs and clearing deadfall (sound familiar, trailbuilders). The entire saw minus the bar is about the size of a soccer ball, so it easily fits in a pack. I'm able to cut most anything that falls across the trail with a couple of passes. Most arborist style saws will accept anywhere from a 12" - 16" bar.
When I first purchased it, I was a little nervous about it being prone to kickback due to the location of the handle, but I've been pleasantly surprised at how versatile this design is. I'm always a little extra careful to avoid kickback when I'm using the saw tip for shaping and notching, but no problems so far.
I don't see alot of these saws in use, just wondering if anyone else has experience with them.


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## roguehoe (Nov 27, 2007)

I use the MS 180 for 95% of my work on trail....it fits into my large backpack pretty easily so I can then hike or ride to where I need to clear trail. If I am going to be out a big distance for a long time, I can also put it in the BOB trailer with extra fuel, chain, etc,etc. I have had no trouble with it at all..just take it to the shop once a year or so for routine upkeep. I have a 280 for larger projects, but rarely need it.


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## special O (Mar 19, 2004)

Use an MS 260 pro w/ 20" bar. Plenty of power unless your going through 40" trees all day.


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## woodway (Dec 27, 2005)

If you are doing a lot of clearing/bucking work, it can be handy to have an extra bar/chain just in case you mis-calculate the stress on a downed tree and get your bar pinched. Don't ask me how I know this.


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## whiterp199 (Feb 27, 2010)

I have a cs-300 as well. We bought it for pruning and light work around the house so I do not have to pull out the 375 xp all the time. I love the little top handle echo. I can take it anywhere because it is very light.


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## Trail Ninja (Sep 25, 2008)

woodway said:


> If you are doing a lot of clearing/bucking work, it can be handy to have an extra bar/chain just in case you mis-calculate the stress on a downed tree and get your bar pinched. Don't ask me how I know this.


  

This one time, at band camp....

I was out for a ride when I see Harry tromping up the trail carrying 2 saws. He's cutting deadfall and I stop to give him a hand.

The little saw already had a broken chain but we decided to take out one more tree with the 24" on the way out. It stayed stuck in that tree for 4 days until I could get back out there with a couple of wedges (which I always carry now).

About 6 months later Harry, Bill and I rode past that tree and Harry mentioned that that was the tree Bill's saw was stuck in for 4 days. Bill is in love with his saw. Seriously, he'd marry it if he could find someone to perform the ceremony.

Bill won't loan us his saw anymore. I always carry an axe and wedges even if I'm just out for a ride, in case I run into Harry again.


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## TunicaTrails (Jun 29, 2009)

Oh yeah, forgot about that part. You could buy a cheap Oregon bar to carry in your toolbox for those cases when you get your saw pinched. I've got several "Excalibur" stories myself. 

A couple of plastic wedges and a mallet also help when you're cutting big trees.


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## Trail Ninja (Sep 25, 2008)

I'll add a vote for the "topping" or "arborist" saw th29 mentioned. I've never owned one but I've used a few.


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## craftbrewed (Sep 26, 2008)

*Dolmar*

My trailbuilding partner has a Dolmar 420 and it's a great little saw. It has a coil designed for easy starting, only requires a couple inches of movement to turnover. If you have a dealer around check them out.


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## fireguy286 (Jun 2, 2007)

*No to top handles*

Top handle saws are for a specific purpose, and not for the casual user. You are much better off with a reputable saw with good power to weight ratio. Stihl is the best saw on the market, if you can afford to buy one that you'll have forever, get the 261 or better yet the discontinued 361, if you can find one; 362 if you can't. Will do everything you need it to, then you can give it to your grandkids. BTW, at work, we have professional model echos for cutting holes in roofs, big problems starting them; not good when there's a house on fire.


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## Trail Ninja (Sep 25, 2008)

fireguy286 said:


> Top handle saws are for a specific purpose, and not for the casual user.


There is a bit of a learning curve. If you expect it to feel like a regular saw, you'll be a bit surprised when it kicks back.


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## TunicaTrails (Jun 29, 2009)

I guess now would be a good time to post this pic.

A word to the wise: chainsaws are _extremely_ dangerous. Treat them with caution and respect. My particular war story could have been much, much worse. Always expect kickback and never work with one when you're too tired. Chaps and other protective gear are well worth the investment in your fleshy appendages.



Trail Ninja said:


> There is a bit of a learning curve. If you expect it to feel like a regular saw, you'll be a bit surprised when it kicks back.


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## Glynis27 (Sep 28, 2007)

th29 said:


> Anybody else ever owned an "arborist" saw. I don't see alot of these saws in use, just wondering if anyone else has experience with them.


I have a Stihl 020T arborist's saw w/ 14" bar. I love that little thing. Fits right in my Camelbak, it's light weight and it will cut 95% of what I need cut. I also have a MS460 with 24" and 36" bars. It stays in the trunk unless we get out there and find a BIG tree that needs cut. Don't want to be hauling that heavy thing around unless you need it.

If I were to only get 1 saw, I would get something on the smaller end. Something that has very high power to weight. I would also suggest mid-range or better if possible.


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## Chris M. (Mar 30, 2009)

IM going to recommend the ms 250, I use to sell sthil at a local lawn an garden shop for 5 years. The ms 250 might look small but its great for around the house and packing on a mountain bike. The Motocycle trail riders have mounts and mount the 250s on the front fender for trail work with the bar following the fork.

Ms 180 is a smaller saw but its a champ. I have sold a lot of those to home owners and sold 50 to a tree farm at one time. it gets the job done no problem.

The arborist saw ( i forget the model) is a great saw but its more expensive so unless you plan on climbing a tree all day with a saw its really not what you need.

The 361 is a big saw. I have used one and personally its too much for most people. And the people that did buy them either brought them back and got a smaller model or were in some form of forestry work and kept them. 

Seriously though for trail work the 180-261 would be a great saw i wouldnt buy more of a saw.


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## Fattirewilly (Dec 10, 2001)

TunicaTrails said:


> I guess now would be a good time to post this pic.
> 
> A word to the wise: chainsaws are _extremely_ dangerous. Treat them with caution and respect. My particular war story could have been much, much worse. Always expect kickback and never work with one when you're too tired. Chaps and other protective gear are well worth the investment in your fleshy appendages.


I gotta ask how that cut on the REAR of the leg happened? It almost seems like the victim must have been clearing or something and had the saw operator come up behind him? I wear chaps when running a saw, I don't think they cover that area.

I generally carry one of those plastic wedges, hand saw, and a scrench. Early on with a saw, it's easy to mis-read the tension and bind up the saw. I got myself out a bind several times banging the wedge in with a rock or cutting the chainsaw out with a handsaw. If you get really stuck, you can undo the bar and chain, and walk out with the powerhead (so that it doesn't get stolen). Often you can pull the bar out and just leave the chain, which if you carry an extra chain, you're back in business.


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## TunicaTrails (Jun 29, 2009)

Everybody asks that. My leg was turned a little sideways and the saw was coming to rest between my legs, and it probably pulled a little more after it zipped through my jeans.

I was tired and got a little careless after clearing vines for about 4 hours. A Stihl FS250 trimmer with cutting wheel is a much safer tool for clearing thickets and saplings, so I bought myself another of those after the accident.



Fattirewilly said:


> I gotta ask how that cut on the REAR of the leg happened? It almost seems like the victim must have been clearing or something and had the saw operator come up behind him? I wear chaps when running a saw, I don't think they cover that area.


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## Trail Ninja (Sep 25, 2008)

Chainsaw for vines? Not me thanks. I'm a big fan of hedge trimmers for small stuff.

I also use a scythe with a brush blade but I'm a sucker for punishment.


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## sambs827 (Dec 8, 2008)

I haven't used a chainsaw for trailwork due to local politics, but we burn through 30-40 face cord every year at my parents' farm. My favorite saw is my MS 260 with a 16-inch bar. After a full day of work it still feels light and versatile, and if you go with anything shorter than 16-inch the chains tend to be wimpy. 

A trained and skilled sawyer can cut a 30-inch log with a 16-inch saw, although I wouldn't try dropping a tree that way. As mentioned above, be sure to use the proper PPE. I use full-lenth kevlar chaps that wrap around the entire calf and come all the way down to cover the laces of my boots. I also wear a hard hat with ear muffs and screen visor attached.


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## bme107 (Jul 23, 2008)

I use a top mount Stihl arborist saw with a 14" bar around the house. It used to feel a bit odd when switching from my dads standard body Stihl but it's all I've had my hands on for 10+ years. We used to cut our own firewood at home and clear trees at my grandparents cottage on the lake.

It is in fact my grandfather's saw that he bought used in the early '80s. Quick internet search reveals it may be an old 015. While in my possession it has failed to start on one occasion. At ~30 years old, in a 20deg snow storm after sitting dry (empty) for over 2 years it failed to start after 15 min of fiddling with it. Put the saw back in the garage and went inside. Came back to it 2 days later and it fired right up. User error? Maybe, but still damn good after all these years.


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