# disc brake is stuck, how to free the rotor



## cloudbuster (Dec 14, 2011)

Hi, i just got my bike back from storage.
during assembly i noticed that the rear rotor was having a hard time fitting in between the pads i used the pad spacer tool to push them out, but it was not enough.

I pushed the rotor in, and is like if i am holding on to the brake level the wheel dont spin. I can force it to rotate the wheel but it wont spin free.
the brake lever barely move. I dont see any oil anywhere.

What else could i try to release the brake.
sram elixir 5 or 7 cant remember at the moment.

Thanks.


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

Remove the wheel and use a wide screwdriver to push the pads/pistons ALL the way back into the caliper body. Check the pads for damage from the screwdriver and replace if needed.

After putting the wheel/disc back on, you will have to pump the brake lever a few times to move the pads back out to the normal spacing.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

Are you able to push the pads further apart? One approach -- and it actually works -- is to fill the space with playing cards, and then slide in one additional card at a time, causing the pads to expand by that much each time. This saved my riding once on a camping trip. 

What I typically do isn't really kosher, but I just grab a fairly wide flat-blade screwdriver and jam it in between the pads and rotate and pry. It's risking the pads to do that, but my bike so I don't mind.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Could need a bleed. Supposed to happen just with time.


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## faceplant72 (Oct 25, 2009)

Weather change got me on an elixir 5 that had absorbed to much water. I had to let a few drops of fluid out of the reservoir to get the wheel to spin. When i did a bleed after that the fluid just looked ugly. I now carry the torx tool from me bleed kit incase i have to ever do this on the trail

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

the best course would be to carefully remove the pads (don't touch the braking surface or get any oils on it) and use a small box wrench (10mm usually works) to push the pads apart. put everything back together and see if it works from there. if the brake still locks up, it is time for a bleed.

how old is that brakeset and when was it bled last? DOT systems ought to be bled about once a year. you also might need to rebuild the calipers with new seals. before you go down that rabbit hole, consider how much trouble you are willing to go through versus the cost of some Shimano SLX brakes.


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## cloudbuster (Dec 14, 2011)

Thanks for all the advices.

I will try to find something bigger than the plastic pad spacer tool and see if i can get them apart.
but it seem that the water absortion mentioned here may be the case.
if i recall even with the wheel out i was not able to move the brake level.

I dont know if i will have time to work on it today but i will report back.

The shimano slx idea sound good. Are they that much user/newbie friendly.

Btw the system is over a year old never bleed.
there was no bike shop near me.
but i just might do it myself now that i moved.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

if you are going to have DOT fluid hydraulic brakes, you should learn to bleed them. you will need an avid bleed kit and a fresh bottle of the correct DOT fluid. wear gloves! there are a ton of videos online to show you how to do it. take your time!


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

Why not just use a plastic tire lever instead of all the metal tools to push out the calipers and scratch up the calipers/pads?

Bleeding elixirs isn't that hard if you follow the instructions. Just don't get the DOT fluid on anything you care about. It likes to eat paint and finishes among other things.


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## IoC (May 14, 2009)

noapathy said:


> Why not just use a plastic tire lever instead of all the metal tools to push out the calipers and scratch up the calipers/pads?


Glad someone said it! Plastic tools on pistons...no screwdrivers, box wrenches, etc.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

noapathy said:


> Why not just use a plastic tire lever instead of all the metal tools to push out the calipers and scratch up the calipers/pads?


Really is one of the best tools for the job.


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## Shakester (Jun 26, 2012)

Harold said:


> Really is one of the best tools for the job.


I usually use the rubberized handle of a pair of pliers. Just insert it to where the bend is on the handle and push in. Easy peezy


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## WillTheGreat (Aug 26, 2010)

For what it's worth (probably not much), Avid's service manual recommends a 10mm box wrench to press in pistons so I assume it is safe. It works very well since it fits perfectly.

Shimano's manual recommends a plastic tire lever, maybe their pistons are more fragile (ceramic?).


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

WillTheGreat said:


> For what it's worth (probably not much), Avid's service manual recommends a 10mm box wrench to press in pistons so I assume it is safe. It works very well since it fits perfectly.
> 
> Shimano's manual recommends a plastic tire lever, maybe their pistons are more fragile (ceramic?).


If it's in the manual, no worries (didn't actually get round to reading that bit...lol). I've run Shimano, SRAM/Avid, Formula and Magura over the years. Just easier to use the tire lever and not have to worry which brand I'm messing with.


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## Singletrailer (Apr 24, 2014)

I second the recommendation to get a set of SLXs. My elixir 7 had the same problem frequently. Ruined a good ride jamming far from home. I took it back to my LBS (bike was only few weeks old) and they sent the brakes to SRAM to get them fixed. Everything was OK for some weeks, then the problems started again. The brake squealed like a freight train, made singing noises due to the small air gap between pads and disc, and was very sensitive to temperature changes. Adjusting the caliper or bleeding did not help for more than a few rides, so I finally sold them on eB*y and got me a set of SLXs. Easy to install, never had a problem since. They feel quite different, but you'll adapt to that quickly.


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## cloudbuster (Dec 14, 2011)

Update:

I used a tire level and thatwas of no help, after that I went with the theory of water absorption and I let some oil out and that was enough for me to free the wheel.

I did not do a flush I just let some out and closed it right away.

So I wan to thank all for the help.
And when the time comes for a flush I will just go ahead and order some real brakes shimano SLX.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

cloudbuster said:


> ...after that I went with the theory of water absorption and I let some oil out and that was enough for me to free the wheel.
> 
> I did not do a flush I just let some out and closed it right away.
> 
> And when the time comes for a flush ...


And you don't think this is the time?

Hey, glad you got the problem sorted.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

I flush my DOT bike brakes when I flush my car brakes.


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