# Derailleur Hanger Alignment Tool



## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

Bicycle has been ghost shifting, etc. Took off the derailleur hanger and noticed it's slightly warped. Ordered two replacements from KONA PARTS | Kona Parts Store. However, I want to get a tool to measure and adjust alignment.

I have two options:

Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge Bike Tool Custom Made | eBay

Or:

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-DAG-2-2-Derailleur-Alignment/dp/B010T6L22E

Suggestions?

My bicycle frame is 7005 Aluminum Butted. Is it safe to use the tool to align the hanger?

Thanks!


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## grandsalmon (Oct 24, 2005)

Since you have replaceable hanger capability, good chance it will be aligned when switched out w the new one, and you can forego the tool.
What year & make of this Kona are we going to call this "patient"?


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

Kona Fire Mountain 2012. My concern is the future. If I get bad shifting, I'd like to have a way to verify whether it's the hanger or not. I've been reading a simple visual check won't help enough. It has to be physically measured by the millimeter. Thoughts?


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## grandsalmon (Oct 24, 2005)

Since you are getting two replacements, you'll have another to put on if you get poor shifting -after you've ruled out all the other, generally more responsible & obvious 'poor shifting' culprits beforehand.

A removed suspect hanger, laid on a completely flat/hard surface can reveal any out-of-plane characteristics.
A well bent hanger can also generally be sighted by eye, bent back roughly if not too severely messed up. And a DIY can use many tricks to check the two axis are in line w the frame.

A hanger alignment tool is on the most part unnecessarily an overly expensive tool for a garage mechanic. 
Where an alignment tool is really needed is _when all other "culprits" are ruled out, hanger "looks" okay_, but shifting is still persnickety. Then a DIY should be able to get a shop to do it for $10?


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

OP, ignore grandsalmon, my derailleur alignment tool has been the best tool investment I've made as far as bike specific tools are concerned, 9 times out of 10 if someone is having bad shifting, a quick check with the tool reveals they've bent their hanger or derailleur. I have the PARK one, works well, easy to use. If there';s one bike specific tool worth buying, this is it, because even new hangers can come bent and should be checked.


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## grandsalmon (Oct 24, 2005)

He's one guy, commuter, trying to save money.


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## Cleaner (Mar 23, 2004)

I have the Park DAG 2. Any competent mechanic will verify hanger alignment on all new builds.

The Park works and if you use it more than twice it will have paid for itself over paying a shop. Mountain bikes often get a tweaked hanger in normal use and transport and hangers can often be made straight with the tool rather than replacing them.


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

Painful but necessary ... purchased a Park DAG-2.2. Let's see if it does the trick. Something tells me rear derailleur alignment (without realizing it) has been a nagging problem for my bicycle .. it's just that the LBS was never clear on what exactly they adjusted, though I vaguely recall freqent mentions of fixing the bent derailleur.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

grandsalmon said:


> Where an alignment tool is really needed is _when all other "culprits" are ruled out, hanger "looks" okay_, but shifting is still persnickety.


I'd say the opposite, it's pointless chasing ghosts when you're not sure if you're square. Bolting a new hanger is no guarantee that it will be correctly aligned, most new bikes I've checked are off a little.

I agree that it's not absolutely necessary for the home mechanic but it is nice and can save trips to the shop and the labor costs involved when you need to confirm or adjust alignment.


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

I'm on a DIY mission. Fed up with lackluster, costly, and dishonest services. I'm learning a lot forcing myself to buy the tools and parts and obligating myself to install them. It's self empowering to repair and upgrade the bicycle. So I decided I'm better off investing in good solid tools the first time. I plan to check the hanger as part of my routine gear maintenance. I figure everytime I do that I'm saving anywhere between $10 to $30 per session in labor.

For example, I just removed the old crankset and BB. Wow that was intense .. Had to use a rubber mallet with a wrench. Probably saved a bunch on labor and learned the workings of the crankset and BB.


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## Slash5 (Nov 27, 2011)

$32
https://www.merlincycles.com/cyclus-gear-hanger-alignment-tool-92156.html


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

J.B. Weld said:


> I'd say the opposite, it's pointless chasing ghosts when you're not sure if you're square. Bolting a new hanger is no guarantee that it will be correctly aligned, most new bikes I've checked are off a little.


This. First thing I do after buying a new hanger is check it on the frame I'm going to use it on with the DAG. More often than not it's just a little off. Then I can throw it in my pack and know it'll work perfect when I need it.



Slash5 said:


> $32
> https://www.merlincycles.com/cyclus-gear-hanger-alignment-tool-92156.html


Looks like a decent alternative. Too bad it's showing out of stock at the moment.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Yep... New hangers should be checked as well. I like the Park tool.


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## PauLCa916 (Jul 1, 2013)

I have the Dag-2 I check every new hanger and they are always bent.
First thing I check if I'm having less than perfect shifting is the hanger and 99% of the time it's bent.
I agree it's a must have tool if you ride mountain bikes they get bent pretty easy.


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

Wow! The hanger is seriously out of alignment! Thanks for the encouragement to purchase the tool.

Question: Instructions say one part should touch rim and the rest should have no more than 4 mm. So one part should touch or all 4 parts have no more than 4mm?


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## PauLCa916 (Jul 1, 2013)

Go to Park Tools web site and watch the video it's easier than it sounds


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

I can use a coin (1 - 2 mm height) to gauge as a universal reference point distance.


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

I believe the current hanger is just too far gone. Adjusting 12 bends 6 and adjusting 3 bends 9 as well as vice versa. Not just a little. Fortunately, I will be getting 2 new hangers in the mail soon.

I noticed the biggest problem with this device is that the 0-rings tend to slide .. Even when conjoined. In the future I'll use electric tape as a marker.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I need to look into this.


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

I think I'm confused on how to use the alignment tool.

Do you reset the gauge at each point of adjustment? Example - reset for A. Turn 180 to B. Match B to A. Adjust B. Reset gauge for B. Then compare A again as reference to B .. And so forth? Closing the gap? Or do you measure A and always keep that as the reference mark for all other points?


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

escapedturkey said:


> Or do you measure A and always keep that as the reference mark for all other points?


Yep^ when it's right the indicator will remain an equal distance from the rim no matter where you check it.

Check out the video-Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge | Park Tool


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## Slash5 (Nov 27, 2011)

I always set at some reference point and the tire stem. Check all around the wheel, only sliding the marker along the bar for clearance, always checking at the tire stem. Get an idea where the hanger needs to go. Put some pressure on the hanger to align.
Go back to reference point and reset indicator at the tire stem. Check around the wheel.
If you jump all around it's easy to get confused about what direction you need to work on.


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

I'm probably over complicating this. How do you define 'reset indicator'? Do you reset the indicator (o-ring) based on the original position (9 o'clock) or do you compare 9 to 3 then reset after each bend? Does every position compare to 9 (the first indicator) or is every position relative to each others re-calibrated indicator? Do my questions make sense?


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

escapedturkey said:


> I'm probably over complicating this.


I think you are.

Park is usually good but I actually watched the vid and I thought it was definitely lacking, maybe check out a few more on Youtube.

The o rings are just reference points so you know where to reset the indicator if/when you have to move it (getting around chainstays and such) When you're done the indicator will be equidistant from the rim wherever you check it when in the same position as confirmed by the unmoved o-ring reference point.

Back in the day most shops used alignment tools that looked a bit like the Merlin one (linked above) without the indicator, you just eyeballed the distance from the tool to the tire and bent the hanger until it looked the same all the way around.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

The basics of it are this.....Check horizontal alignment first - I normally check with the valve at 9 o'clock, then rotate the wheel till the valve is at 3 o'clock and note which way it is out, then I make smallish adjustments until they are close, reset the o-ring and double check, once they're within an 1/8" it's normally good as you'll find the tool moves about that much when flexed.
Next check the vertical alignment the same way, once you've done that, go back and check the horizontal alignment, especially if you had to make big adjustments either way as bending the hanger horizontally can also twist vertically and vice versa. 

As said, once it's within an 1/8" all around it should be good and YES, you should not have to move the gauge except up and down on the arm to accommodate for lining up with the rim distance from tool pivot.


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

Clarifying my understanding:

3/9 and 6/12 need the pointers to be reset (relatively calibrated per bend) until each is respectively the same distance from the rim?

What confused me is this:

"Again, bend only one-half the amount of gap. Reset pointer at each bending of hanger. When gap is less then 4mm, keep same the setting and check 3:00 position. If three points 90 degrees apart are within 4mm, hanger is aligned. Continue aligning as necessary."

The part: "Reset pointer at each bending of hanger."

Rear Derailleur Hanger Alignment | Park Tool


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Resetting the pointer is just fine tuning it closer to the rim as the hanger gets closer to square.

This is pretty much how I do it (except don't hold the wheel for bracing when bending the hanger!)- 




If the wheel is true you don't need to turn the wheel to reference the same point on the rim every time.


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

None of the videos offer close ups or explain the reset as much as you are doing.


Is the pointer the o-ring? It's the reset term that is confusing.

Can you take pictures of what you mean? I know it's asking a lot. Since it's a public thread it should help others who have the same question in the future.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

escapedturkey said:


> Is the pointer the o-ring? It's the reset term that is confusing.


The pointer is the metal part that you adjust next to the rim. The o-ring is a reference so when you reset the pointer you know it's in the same place, I only use the outside one. It's necessary to reset the pointer whenever you check a different point on the rim.

I don't currently own a Park DAG tool. Keep checking different videos, there must be a ton of them and one is bound to make it click.


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

Makes sense. Much appreciated.


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

Update: 

I hope this helps someone who sees this thread.

Again, thank you for the help. Shifts much better now. I followed your instructions.

My interpretation:

Use the o-rings as temporary markers for each reset (o'clock) position when moving around a rack, etc.

Start at 12 o'clock and reset (pole touches rim -+ 4 mm). Go to 6 o'clock compare, bend once, and reset for 6 o'clock (set pole to touch rim +- 4 mm). Go back to 12 o'clock, compare, bend once, and reset to 12 o'clock.

How you bend (forward or backward) depends on if the pole is closer or further away to rim from the previous reset (will be observable via marker distance at the rear of the pole).

Tip: Bend only half way. Slowly hold bend for 3 seconds and gently let go.

Keep repeating until both postions are equal. It will take awhile. Do the same for 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock.

Finally, compare that all are fairly equal +- 4mm from rim.

I recommend anyone who wants to adjust his / her own gears to invest in a derailleur hanger alignment tool. It'll save you money and lots of frustration.


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## Slash5 (Nov 27, 2011)

There is no reason to work at 90 degree angles. When I do this, I set the marker and check for the spot that needs the most correction and bend there. Keep repeating until all the same.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Slash5 said:


> There is no reason to work at 90 degree angles. When I do this, I set the marker and check for the spot that needs the most correction and bend there. Keep repeating until all the same.


x2^


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

Was the method that I used incorrect? Just when I thought I figured it out ... =/


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

escapedturkey said:


> Was the method that I used incorrect? Just when I thought I figured it out ... =/


Not necessarily incorrect, the end result is what matters most. I agree with Slash though, it's easiest to find where it's off the most and make the first bend from there, wherever "there" may be. I suppose I should have mentioned that earlier.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

PauLCa916 said:


> I check every new hanger and they are always bent.
> First thing I check if I'm having less than perfect shifting is the hanger and 99% of the time it's bent.


The hangers are straight, it's your frame that's out. Could be paint build up or a misalignment. This is by no means uncommon and it's why you should always check a new hanger.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Just in case anyone's still not understanding how to do this, check out this Park video Tech Talks: Derailleur Hanger Alignment, Presented by Park Tool - Video - Pinkbike


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## gpeden (Nov 17, 2014)

I'm glad the tone of this thread changed When I mentioned to a mechanic at LBS that this was one tool I might not buy, he said that it was one of his most used tools. He takes it to the trailhead and anytime he or one of his buds dump their bike, it is very useful indeed. I bought the Park Tool tool and would agree that it is pretty much mandentory. The hanger was off on my last new bike purchase, unsure if I did it with handling though. "Within 4 mm" isn't good enough for me - why stop there

A big "doh!" from me when I read about checking new hangers on the bike before they are stashed in the pack. Head slap, LOL.

Glen


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## eshew (Jan 30, 2004)

Yep, I agree. Awesome tool. New hangers aren't always aligned. If you like doing your own work this tool is a must have.


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## oberwil (Nov 5, 2007)

I just skimmed this thread, don't know if I missed it, but always check the distance using the valve hole as your reference. So even if the wheel is not straight your always checking from the same reference point at the 3, 6, 9 & 12 points.


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## velo99 (Apr 18, 2014)

Had the same ghost shifting issue with my Kahuna. Took it in, lifetime free tune up, the mechanic said deraileur was bent & he straightened it. Next ride 20 minutes in ghost shift. 
Owner looked at it for 5 minutes. Told me the cable tension was off. They put new cables on. I fine tuned it with the barrel on my next ride. No more issues. 
Personally, the deraileur hanger gets a bad rap. Considering the number of times I shift in one ride, cables are now my most likely suspect. Quick wipe occasionally is very helpful. Cables are cheap, housings are to, relative to performance.
JMHO
PS you have to bang your deraileur against something to bend the hanger.
Cables stretch because you shift.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

velo99 said:


> Cables stretch because you shift.


The cables might stretch a very small amount but mostly the housing compresses and the ferrules fully seat, just a technicality I realize because the end result is the same. At any rate the issue can usually be dealt with in a few minutes during assembly by a competent mechanic and after that the cables will "stretch" no more.

I do agree with you that cables & housing are more often the root of shifting woes than a bent hanger, at least IME.


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## edubfromktown (Sep 7, 2010)

Though I use it rarely, the DAG is a critical one to have hanging around (pun intended).

I check at 12,3 and 6 o'clock with DAG and that is generally fine.

One of my geared rides is more finicky than others (when minor barrel adjustments at the shifter do not work, that is when I grab the DAG).


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

LyNx said:


> OP, ignore grandsalmon, my derailleur alignment tool has been the best tool investment I've made as far as bike specific tools are concerned, 9 times out of 10 if someone is having bad shifting, a quick check with the tool reveals they've bent their hanger or derailleur. I have the PARK one, works well, easy to use. If there';s one bike specific tool worth buying, this is it, because even new hangers can come bent and should be checked.


CORRECT!!!!!!!

I have had new frames / bikes with DRL hangers that were not aligned. Latest example is my new bike with Eagle 1x12. It was just not shifting right when I picked it up from the shop (complete new build).

Thought it was cable stretch.......nope. Pulled the DRL off , checked the alignment and sure enough it was off. Adjusted it and BAM shifts like butter.

Torque wrenches and DRL alignment tools are the two most overlooked must haves for any home mechanic.


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## bdaghisallo (Jan 10, 2006)

So when you guys are re-aligning your RD hangers, you are essentially just re-aligning the replaceable hanger and not any part of the drop out, yes?

Am I correct in assuming that the stays and dropouts on modern bikes, made out of aluminum and carbon fiber, are too rigid to be moved and that all the movement that results is only in the hanger?


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## eshew (Jan 30, 2004)

Yes the hanger is the only portion of the frame the tool manipulates. Be it a replaceable hanger or non replaceable.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

You would never use the tool without a wheel clamped in the dropouts. This effectively prevents you from bending anything but the hanger.


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## PauLCa916 (Jul 1, 2013)

customfab said:


> The hangers are straight, it's your frame that's out. Could be paint build up or a misalignment. This is by no means uncommon and it's why you should always check a new hanger.


Missed this.
Bummer I hope my Carbon frames are not bent.


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

The hanger is supposed to bend, that's the reason it's exists -- to prevent your frame or rear derailleur from getting damaged. 

I'm convinced that every 'how to' guide should list derailleur hanger alignment as the first item in a check list of gearing maintenance adjustments, unless the person is absolutely certain a shifting problem is caused by something else.


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## rlouder (Jun 26, 2007)

A hanger tool would be convenient, but I've always just used a straight edge and ruler. A stick of thin L-shaped AL works well as a straight edge because it stays straight and is easy to hold on the hanger face because it is so light.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

PauLCa916 said:


> Missed this.
> Bummer I hope my Carbon frames are not bent.


Not bent but not perfect, many factors are involved.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

escapedturkey said:


> I'm convinced that every 'how to' guide should list derailleur hanger alignment as the first item in a check list of gearing maintenance adjustments, ....


It pretty much is the first thing with me. Misaligned hangers are everywhere. And it easier to do all the downstream work with confidence once one can be sure of the hanger alignment.


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## euskafreez (May 26, 2010)

Since the 10sp cassettes were a common sight on roadies, I've made an everyday use of the derailleur hanger gauge. It makes so much of a difference.

That's a tool we should all have in our garage. I've found this one to be quite good for cheap : wiggle.com | LifeLine Derailleur Hanger Alignment Tool | Workshop Tools


Here is my opinion as a professional mechanic about this tool:


a lot of improvements in the design in comparison of the industry standard, aka the Park DAG 2.x series. Such as the quick release used to lock the shaft, instead of the hand bolt.

It's lighter than the Park. Which is nice when you fly for work with your toolbox like I do

The finish ain't as good as the Park, but who cares? It gets the job done

Regarding the accuracy, you'll read a lot about the "play" in the reviews. Don't freak out at all. Those people complaining about the play aren't bike mechanics. Like the hanger gauge from Park, you can adjust the play by tightening a pinch bolt

Already comes with two o-rings installed on both sides of the shaft. It saves some time when reading the misalignment. Something you have to add to the Park .

As a pro I sold the Park on ebay and gave this cheap gauge -made by SuperB and sold by other under different brands FYI- to the trainee. We got a Shimano and a VAR at work, they aren't cheap gauge but they are worth the money. But I'm doing just fine at home with this cheaper gauge, honest.


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## aminkman (May 6, 2008)

I love this tool - LifeLine Derailleur Hanger Alignment Tool that euskafreez linked above. I've wanted the Park version forever but never jumped. Initially, I was bummed with the play on the Lifeline tool. Took it apart and lubed it with anti seize and tightened the set screw. No more play. Great tool at half the price!


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## chudly (Nov 3, 2016)

I am convinced I need a tool . Great info here.


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## ewarnerusa (Jun 8, 2004)

Subscribed. 
I'm dealing with a goofy drivetrain issue and wishing I had a derailleur hanger alignment tool. Saw the link above from wiggle.com and thought it would be $40 well spent. It is on the way.


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## euskafreez (May 26, 2010)

$40 bucks well spent it is! Don't panic if you don't know what to do at first. Although you have plenty of tutorials on youtube, shoot away if you have any question about the use of this tool guys.


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## ewarnerusa (Jun 8, 2004)

ewarnerusa said:


> Subscribed.
> I'm dealing with a goofy drivetrain issue and wishing I had a derailleur hanger alignment tool. Saw the link above from wiggle.com and thought it would be $40 well spent. It is on the way.


I got mine in the mail a couple weeks ago. First time using it was this weekend when after changing some rear derailleur pulleys into blingy purple to match the frame, the shifting in the lower cogs was off. The alignment tool worked great, it confirmed that the hanger was indeed bent, I was able to get it straight again using the tool, and shifting went back to working great. Money well spent. It did take me a few minutes of pondering and trial and error to understand how to properly use the sliding indicator and its different axis of movement, but after figuring that out it became a couple minute job.


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## euskafreez (May 26, 2010)

Good to know man! Maybe you have already figured it out but here is how I use the tool : I take the valve as a reference point, and then check the alignment at 12 and 6 o'clock. Then I check the alignment at 9 and 3 o'clock.

90% of the time it makes a world of a difference. I can't even understand why some mechanics don't use such a tool. If they don't I fire them lol.


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## santacruzr (Aug 11, 2015)

Abbey tools HAG is by far THE BEST alignment gauge on the market. If you have used any other brand and then used their tool you will realize the difference and sell off the one you had prior.


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## bdaghisallo (Jan 10, 2006)

The EVT Ultra Tru-Arc may shade the Abbey HAG but at $500 for it you are bumping up against diminishing returns. The HAG definitely wins the value for money contest.


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## euskafreez (May 26, 2010)

Agree to disagree about the EVT or the Abbey. Both alignment gauge from Shimano or VAR are far more accurate than the last two you were talking about.

Except for few of their tools -such as the dual sided cassette tool and the titanium made hammer-, Abbey tools are overpriced in my humble opinion. One example : they're asking $45 for a chain whip. I'm sorry but the wise whip from Pedro's rule them all.


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## bdaghisallo (Jan 10, 2006)

euskafreez said:


> Agree to disagree about the EVT or the Abbey. Both alignment gauge from Shimano or VAR are far more accurate than the last two you were talking about.


FTI, Brett Fleming from EVT was the man who designed the Shimano tool and he sold his patent for the design to Shimano. He licenses it back from Shimano so that he can make his EVT hanger tool.


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## euskafreez (May 26, 2010)

I'm just talking about the accuracy . Both EVT and Abbey have a good design, but I do like to have a ruler instead of a spindle with o-rings or zip-ties.


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## Bhaalgorn (Jul 16, 2015)

I picked up the DAG 2.2 recently and had my first bent derailleur over the weekend. The tool is excellent. Easy to use. Sturdy. Rebuildable. I could have saved a couple bucks trying something else, but I'm very happy with the Park. Definitely recommend it.


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