# Flow mk3, still clyde-worthy?



## Freddy_G (Jul 27, 2016)

Hey!

Longtime lurker finally about to make a post =)

I'm want to upgrade the wheelset on my Transition Smuggler since the SRAM 746 hubs has broken down on me too many times now (the pawls more specifically).

Was thinking of a combo of DT Swiss 350, Stan's Flow mk3, DT Swiss comp 2,0-1,8 and brass nippels. My riding weight is 290. 

Has anyone tested these new Flow mk3? Are they still as clyde-worthy as the old Flow EX? They seem to be specifying a max rider weight (250) now also, not sure if Stan's did that before or not.

Thanks a bunch!


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

I've never looked at them...crazy they put a weight limit on that rim. Maybe they lightened them up some taking away strength? I'm on the Flow EX at 265 but have been heavier and they have been g2g. Maybe see if you can find some EX rims? I'm sure they are still out there.

I recently had a wheel set built using WTB i23 rims and they are pretty nice and if you are thinking tubless....they are excellent. There's an i25 too if you want wider. IMO...the WTB Frequency Team rims are on the good list for us clydes. I've also got the i19's on my Cannondale that came stock and I haven't had any problems with them either. 

You spoke and nipple choice is good as is the hub. I'd suggest upgrading the star ratchet on the hub to the 36T though because 18T engagement will suck.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

I just looked at the MKIII times. I wonder if that weight limit is just for their wheel set and not the rim itself? Maybe shoot them an email and see if that's the case. If the EX didn't have a weight limit and they are claiming the new version is stronger and stiffer...it doesn't make sense that all the sudden the rim needs a weight limit. My bet is that limit is just the wheel set built by Stans.


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## yeti187 (Nov 3, 2005)

340 geared up riding a GG megatrail. I've got MK3 laced to I9 classic hubs and so far so good but only have a couple rides on them.


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## Freddy_G (Jul 27, 2016)

Sent a question to Stan's and received an answer very soon afterwards. Kudos to them for that!

_The max recommended weight for the FlowEX was also 250lbs. We left it alone for the new MK3 series for the sake of simplicity and also because there are a whole slew of factors which affect that max recommendation. Riding style and/or ability, terrain, whether or not you broke all your toys when you were a kid, etc. are all reason why that max weight could be a bit flexible. There's a whole more to it than just sticking a firm number on a rim, but it serves at least as a starting point.

You're correct that the new Flow MK3 is stronger and stiffer than the outgoing FlowEX, so if you've had good luck with the old rims you'll certainly be happy with the new rims._

So, from the sound of it, the Flow mk3 could be a winner! 

Nubster: Thanks for tip regardning the star ratchet! I found that you could even upgrade to a 54T (at a fair price though!).


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Yeah...the Bontrager 54T. They are pricey for sure. I've read they can be prone to the teeth chipping though if you put out a lot of power. Not chipped to the point of failure...but they do chip. Not really heard anything negative about the 36T though. Seems the larger teeth are a little more robust and clyde friendly. I'm on 40 POE and 44 POE Hopes. The 40 is plenty so I'd think the 36T would be too.

And 250 on the EX...hmmm...I've never read that anywhere so I wonder if that was actually published. I would assume that most weight limits are pretty conservative since manufacturers know people are going to push limits. Like I said...I've had great luck with my EX and that's been up to around 290 and currently 265. I think the important thing will be to make sure you get a quality build.


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## avidthrasher (Jan 27, 2016)

These weight limits are all just there for legal recourse. These aren't numbers that are pulled from actual riding data. These are the "in case of catastrophic failure we are going to give ourselves as many channels to deny responsibility as possible" types of limitations. If wheels had hard and fast weight limitations that were accurate we would see these fat kids (<--- me, lol) trying to huck road gaps killing themselves on a much more regular basis.


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## Freddy_G (Jul 27, 2016)

Bumping my own thread here... 

Have been running with the setup happily up until I took out the bike from the winter slumber this week and then I realized that the back rim have started to crack around almost every nipple on the drive side... 

It seems like I'm not the first person with this problem if I search here on mtbr. But I'm not holding my breath for a warranty claim...

So I guess I'm looking for a new rim (definitely keeping the hub! It's been awesome!), and I'm interested in 2 rims from DT Swiss.

The "eBike" HX531 or the EX511.

Anyone with any experience building a rear wheel with any of these?


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## Knight511 (Nov 26, 2010)

I have been beating my Velocity Blunt 35s for a while now. Every time I put them on my truing stand, I am surprised to find a perfect wheel. 

Not happy to see your Stans though... I am in the middle of building a set of 27.5+ Barons right now...


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

Freddy_G said:


> Bumping my own thread here...
> 
> Have been running with the setup happily up until I took out the bike from the winter slumber this week and then I realized that the back rim have started to crack around almost every nipple on the drive side...
> 
> ...


Check out your spoke tension, maybe it was too high?

I have a Flow Mk3 rear wheel and the spoke tension is not very high just going by feel.

I've build a few wheels w/DT rims and they were perfect... lace up, tension and ran true within a fraction of a mm.


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## MountainLife (Aug 7, 2017)

I would look for a rim with eyelets. I had the same exact cracks you had on my stock rims that came with my Specialized Enduro.

I did a build last year with DT Swiss 350 hubs, DT champion 2.0 spokes and WTB Asym i35 rims and I've had zero issues since. They hold true and I beat the heck out of them.

I'd highly recommend going with the WTB Asyms. More air volume is better for big guys so I'd go with the i35s and pair it with a Maxxis WT tire. 

For reference I'm 290 lbs. and ride trail/enduro and several days each year at the bike park.

Good luck!


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

I'd say go for it. I hate the stock rear hubs engagement but they should be fine otherwise. Had flows originally on my Evil Insurgent but wanted to go wider so I built up Sentry rims with Bitex hubs (6 degree engagement but inexpensive), with Sapim cx-ray bladed spokes. Wheels were 1830g and were flawless riding Downieville and Soquel in Norcal and all the other rocky stuff I ride. I'm currently 290 in gear. Wheels still true with biggest drop around 3-4ft. I've found that as a big guy, for me going to wider tires has been the biggest difference I've found instantly on a bike. I went from 2.3" DHF/DHR II combo to 2.6"WT and the difference was night and day in traction and confidence at downhill speeds even with the same tire type.


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## mport78 (Feb 22, 2013)

Had the Old Flow EX and always had to check the spoke tension. I have WTB !29 with DT350 and I'm very happy with them. The builder is important to. Had Lace mine 29 build mine and have nothing but good things to say about the whole process with him.


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## Pedalon2018 (Apr 24, 2018)

mport78 said:


> Had the Old Flow EX and always had to check the spoke tension. I have WTB !29 with DT350 and I'm very happy with them. The builder is important to. Had Lace mine 29 build mine and have nothing but good things to say about the whole process with him.


Check out DT Swiss XR 391 with a pair of 240s. Has a nicer finish than Stan's and dam strong.


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