# ReStart



## Goatrope (Apr 27, 2014)

I'll be 56 in a few months. Moved to SW Florida for a job opportunity 12 years ago, and lost interest in Mountain biking. Starting to get the itch again.

Of course it's nothing like Maryland here, but there's a small scene.

Anyway, my question:

Is it even worth the time and effort to rebuild my 2000 Marin Mt Vision, or just start fresh with a comparable spec new bike. The Mt Vision is Deore XT , and once upon a time, not too shabby.

So what do you think? 
2000 Marin Mount Vision - BikePedia


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## palerider (Jul 15, 2004)

Nothing like a new bike to restart the passion imo.


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## TheBaldBlur (Jan 13, 2014)

Depends on what your Marin needs; if it just needs new tires, brake pads, and cables, I'd say do that and ride it until you decide (a) if you're really going to stick with riding and (b) if so, what you really want in a new(er) bike.


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## Goatrope (Apr 27, 2014)

Thanks guys. 

I think a comparable new bike would exceed $3000. While I don't really have a monetary constraint, common sense is telling me to get off my ass and see if I can get the Mt Vision trail-ready. 

I'm going through the bike and, as Baldy suggested, needs brake pads, tires , cables at a minimum. 

Next plan to look closer at the Mars C fork and Fox Float R shock to see if they're functional or needing rebuild. I guess I'll start there and see how it rides. 

I had several sets of tires, all dried out now. A few Michelin sets, some Tioga factory mud, which I really liked down here in the muck. 

What's a decent tire for wide range of terrain, from slippery roots, muck, to sand or hard pack? What are all the cool kids running?


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Get a fatbike. I won't try to persuade you, but just go over to the fatbike forum and read away.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

What part of "get a new bike" don't you understand?


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## Goatrope (Apr 27, 2014)

Ha! I hear ya knockin. 

Those Fattys look interesting but seem not too practical. Does anyone actually ride those on trails, or are they just a novelty ride? They got to weigh 80lbs.


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## BruceBrown (Jan 16, 2004)

Goatrope said:


> I'll be 56 in a few months. Moved to SW Florida for a job opportunity 12 years ago, and lost interest in Mountain biking. Starting to get the itch again.
> 
> Of course it's nothing like Maryland here, but there's a small scene.
> 
> ...


Dump the small wheel and old technology. Upgrade to the new geometry and wheel sizes. End of discussion.


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## MSU Alum (Aug 8, 2009)

New bike, fat or not, the fatties are not a novelty!


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## azjeff (Jun 3, 2006)

Goatrope said:


> Thanks guys.
> 
> I think a comparable new bike would exceed $3000. While I don't really have a monetary constraint, common sense is telling me to get off my ass and see if I can get the Mt Vision trail-ready.
> 
> ...


You really can't compare prices from 2000 to today. "Lower grade" is really good and top shelf is obscenely expensive.

Maybe get your bike running and see if you want to stay with it. You'd surely have $3-400 in having your sus rebuilt, money not well spent on a Y2K bike IMO. These new bikes are so much different that what you have, maybe before you sink a bunch of $ in yours rent something that interests you for a 1/2 day and see what you think.

As far as tires, what are the cool kids running where you want to ride?

I'm 59, just went from an 07 26" Stumpjumper FSR to a 27.5+ FS and am crazy for it.


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## Fuzzle (Mar 31, 2015)

If you are interested in doing any climbing or longer rides I would stay away from fat tire. I'm not sure what type of terrain you will be riding where you are. You may want to ride the trails and see what suites you needs before you make a decision. There are some bike where you can run both fat and reg. so you can have two sets and the best of both worlds.


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## Goatrope (Apr 27, 2014)

Dang you guys. 

Good advice. Thank you. 

I'll get mine up to bare minimum and use it while I shop for something new. Maybe if I break it completely I'll stop thinking about fixing it up. 

I have to admit, buying new is making more sense.


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## Goatrope (Apr 27, 2014)

Fuzzle said:


> If you are interested in doing any climbing or longer rides I would stay away from fat tire. I'm not sure what type of terrain you will be riding where you are. You may want to ride the trails and see what suites you needs before you make a decision. There are some bike where you can run both fat and reg. so you can have two sets and the best of both worlds.


Not feeling the Fatty at all. But I'm in SW Florida, and the trails id be running, I haven't been out on in some time. I'll go check out the trails on my beater and see what people are running now. Id be shocked to see Fattys in there. Seems the short steep technical stuff would really suck the life out of you with big tires. Especially getting over roots and fallen trees. Maybe they'd do ok I'm the muck, though, but I always did best with 1.85 - 1.95 tires.


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## Osco (Apr 4, 2013)

Come up to Balm Boyette Scrub Preserve and or Alafia...
SWAMP Mountain Bike Club Trails in Florida
I can't ride worth a damn but I'm 57, feel like 30 

View attachment 1087014


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## Goatrope (Apr 27, 2014)

Osco said:


> Come up to Balm Boyette Scrub Preserve and or Alafia...
> SWAMP Mountain Bike Club Trails in Florida
> I can't ride worth a damn but I'm 57, feel like 30


Absolutely. That's my target location. (The trails, not the shin)

Ow


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## azjeff (Jun 3, 2006)

Don't dismiss tires wider than 1.95":nono: and don't dismiss 27.5" and 29" tires. True fat bikes are a bit of a novelty but the + size tires have a lot going for them. Big low pressure tires will roll stuff that will stop skinny tires dead. They also have a nice soft ride in harsh stuff. Sand is something you just ride over, not something that sucks your tires in deep, crosses you up and stops you. 

Not trying to talk you into anything, just keep an open mind about this new stuff. Like tubeless, and 31" wide bars, and 1x11 drivetrains. Crazy stuff.


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## fishboy316 (Jan 10, 2014)

Fat is where it's at brother! Not a novelty at all. More and more are showing up at the trails. Take it from a59 year old fellow Marylander.(Sorta since you now are in Fla.) I run my fatty at Rosaryville and Patapsco with no prob. Love it so much am getting a new Farley. I thought the same as you about the fat. I rode one and the rest is history. Took a buddy out last weekend who also thought the same. He is now buying my Amarok after 1 day. The FAT will consume you. The traction and forgiving nature of these big tires is amazing. They will turn you into a 12 year old kid. I still ride my c-dale lefty but I ride the fatty more. Talk about riding over sand, these will roll over anything. Ride one and see. I find mine not hard to pedal and it is HEAVY. If I were you I would surely try a good quality fat bike out.

I have ridden + size bikes and they were fun, but to me fat was FUN!!!

Good Luck! Just my $.02


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Goatrope said:


> Ha! I hear ya knockin.
> 
> Those Fattys look interesting but seem not too practical. Does anyone actually ride those on trails, or are they just a novelty ride? They got to weigh 80lbs.


I use mine for 24 hour racing as well as general trail duties. When I switched from an ultralight Ti 29er to a heavy steel fatbike (Surly Pugsley) it didn't seem faster, I did it for comfort. However I knocked out one more lap than I usually do even though the fatbike was twice the weight of the other bike. I have since bought a lighter fatbike but that has not made much difference, so I generally prefer the heavyweight.

Nothing climbs like a fatbike on loose technical terrain. Fat tyres have redefined technical for me. Stuff I used to regard as technical on 2" tyres is merely an irregularity to a fat tyre as it steamrolls right over without noticing. I regard my fatbike as a skills enhancer - it makes me look better than I really am. 

However if you never venture away from maintained trails, what are called plus size tyres are possibly better, ie 29er+ or 650B+ (aka 27.5+).


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## Fuzzle (Mar 31, 2015)

I hear you guys. Everyone has their reasons and should do what's best for them. I rode one around the parking lot of my friends shop and took it over some rocks, did a track stance too. The bike just stood up by itself. I think they could be a blast and aid in a much safer ride. I'm upgrading soon and the decided to not go with the fatty. My reasons are because I'm interested in becoming a better rider without anymore aid the FS. I still have unfinished business which is build my confidence. At some point I may add one to my stable.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Fuzzle said:


> I hear you guys. Everyone has their reasons and should do what's best for them. I rode one around the parking lot of my friends shop and took it over some rocks, did a track stance too. The bike just stood up by itself. I think they could be a blast and aid in a much safer ride....


In almost every bike shop that I have seen fatbikes, the tyre pressures are way too high on their demo bikes.

Seeing as it's the tyres that make a fatbike this can give a completely false impression of what they are like. (8psi is high for my weight 85Kg) Look for approximately 20% deflection when you sit on the bike (a very rough guide). They also don't feel that great on a road surface, but that completely changes when you hit the dirt.

Be aware most cheap fatbikes come with tyres and tubes that are dire. If you can upgrade the tyres to a set with a high thread count (60 - 120 tpi) and lighter weight tubes you'll transform the bike.


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## miatagal96 (Jul 5, 2005)

Goatrope - sounds like you have a good plan. I'd use yours and test ride as many options as you can. Suspension has come a LONG way. There are so many options: suspension or hard-tail, wheel size (27.5 or 29), tire width (regular mtb, mid-fat, fat). People's preferences are different and they often depend on the type of trails you ride. I'd see what type of bikes people are riding on your trails. If they are all riding hard-tails, you might not need dual suspension. If they are all on big-travel bikes, you might not want a hard-tail.

As for the fat tire debate, you gotta just try them. I have a fat bike, but I prefer my other mountain bikes in the summer. Love the fat bike in snow. Mine is a Pugsley - pretty heavy. If I were to get a fat bike for summer, I'd spend a bunch of $$ and get one that is sub-30-lbs. They are slower. If you have a bunch of fast friends that you have a hard time keeping up with, a fat bike will make it harder. On the other hand, you can just point and pedal a fat bike through a bunch of conditions (but I can also do this with my 140mm dual suspension bike). Not knocking the fat bike - they are fun. If I had to choose only one bike, it would be hard - probably my dream bike - an Ibis Mojo 3 (27.5" wheels and can use 2.3 - 2.8" tires). If I was riding smooth, flowy stuff, I'd probably choose a hard-tail. Snow or loose sand - fat bike for sure.


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