# Stuck crank arms



## jmoore981 (Jan 7, 2019)

I am trying to convert my wife’s specialized Jynx to a 1x and can’t get crank arms off. I am using the correct crank extractor. Park Tool CCp-22 but cannon get the cranks off. I am lookin gape some tips on what to try next. I even tapped the crank extractor with a rubber mallet.


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## mtnbikej (Sep 6, 2001)

You just gotta man up and turn it. The spindle is tapered, so once you break it loose, it'll come right off.


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## Forest Rider (Oct 29, 2018)

That crank isn't a self-extracting crank? I don't have enough experience in bicycle repair, but how common is it to require a crank extractor on a modern bike?

Regardless -the self-extracting system for the 2016 FSR requires crazy effort. I use the handle from my floor jack as a cheater. The opposing crank should be secured somehow. Then use all the big muscles.
It's hard to fathom the loosening force required for a bolt tightened to about 46lb-ft.

If your bike is anything like mine, there is no way that short handle is going to do the job.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Ditch the handled extractor and buy a CCP-7 (aka universal puller). Use it with a ratchet handle, and grab the crank arm with the same hand (a la scissors). It will come off with little fanfare.


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## jmoore981 (Jan 7, 2019)

I have now stripped out the threads on the crank arm and it is still on the bike. I used some extra leverage. Not sure what to do next.


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## mtnbikej (Sep 6, 2001)

Forest Rider said:


> That crank isn't a self-extracting crank? I don't have enough experience in bicycle repair, but how common is it to require a crank extractor on a modern bike?
> 
> Regardless -the self-extracting system for the 2016 FSR requires crazy effort. I use the handle from my floor jack as a cheater. The opposing crank should be secured somehow. Then use all the big muscles.
> It's hard to fathom the loosening force required for a bolt tightened to about 46lb-ft.
> ...


A lot of entry level bikes still come with square taper bottom brackets. They do not come with self extracting bolts. You have to use an extractor.


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## mtnbikej (Sep 6, 2001)

jmoore981 said:


> I have now stripped out the threads on the crank arm and it is still on the bike. I used some extra leverage. Not sure what to do next.


Sounds like you didn't have the tool threaded all the way in. Did you strip all the threads or just the outer threads?


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

If puller threads are totally stripped, you might find a gear-puller than will work. With stripped puller threads, you need new crank arms anyway. ...or cut the spindle behind the crank arms and replace the bb. Cartridge BBs are like $25.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

#6 Jacobs Chuck Wedges can be banged in behind the crank arm, over the spindle. They will remove the arms without damaging them. Use a long-nose punch to hit the wedges together past the chainrings. You can use a large C-clamp to close them together, if you have access to one (6" throat, or so).

Watch a few videos on how to remove chucks from drill presses. It's the exact same procedure.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Cut it off and buy a cheap set of slx's.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

First, make sure the extractor is screwed into the crankarm tight, use a wrench. Then just go for it, when the tool hits the spindle you have to put some meat into it. Use a cheater bar if necessary.


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## 202cycle (Dec 6, 2006)

Lone Rager said:


> If puller threads are totally stripped, you might find a gear-puller than will work. With stripped puller threads, you need new crank arms anyway. ...or cut the spindle behind the crank arms and replace the bb. Cartridge BBs are like $25.


If you're going to cut anything, make it the crank arm, you'll be replacing that anyway, and it's a lot softer metal than the spindle.


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## jmoore981 (Jan 7, 2019)

Thanks for the advice


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^^^ turn the bike upside down and it's easy and straightforward to get at the spindle and cut it with a hacksaw. To cut the crank arm off the spindle, you need to cut parallel to the spindle, which is more involved.

With the wedge method suggested above, the wedges go between the arm and the face of the BB. As long as the face of the bb doesn't get disrupted too badly, this can work.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

put the bolt in loosely, one thread less than finger tight at most

then go for a nice stomping ride. it should wiggle the crank loose eventually if you crank up some hills. do some laps...crank should loosen eventually but not fall completely off....


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## life behind bars (May 24, 2014)

Engage the extractor and put some ass in it. If it still refuse to budge, whack the side of the crank arm with a soft faced hammer. Rinse, repeat.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

life behind bars said:


> Engage the extractor and put some ass in it. If it still refuse to budge, whack the side of the crank arm with a soft faced hammer. Rinse, repeat.


I also skimmed the part where the op said he stripped the threads. Like mtnbikej said the tool must not have been screwed in all the way.

All the ways mentioned will work. A cordless bandsaw would make quick work of it.


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## life behind bars (May 24, 2014)

J.B. Weld said:


> A cordless bandsaw would make quick work of it.


A Portaband would be the path I would choose as well. Slash and burn !


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## jmoore981 (Jan 7, 2019)

Good news is I was able to remove drive side! Had to use more mussel than I thought I had.

I think I had it threaded all the way in on non drive side. Probably going to try to use a punch and see if that works before I go to the hacksaw.


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## parktool (Jun 27, 2017)

Put the drive side back on and take it for a decent ride. Should pop right off after some good hard pedal strokes.


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