# removing drive side crank arm-stuck



## hahdtail (Apr 28, 2011)

I'm sure this has been done to death but i didnt see it when i searched. i am. trying to strip down a frame to sell it and am trying to remove the right side crank arm. the bolt wont budge at all :madman: . i at first thought maybe it was reverse threaded? but it wont budge in either direction no matter how much force is applied to the allen bolt. is there some trick to this? IS it reverse threaded? the other one came off no problem


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## trboxman (Jul 7, 2010)

Counter clockwise as you face the side of the bike.


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## hahdtail (Apr 28, 2011)

so it is _not_ reverse threaded?


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## trboxman (Jul 7, 2010)

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/crank-service

Go figure it out for yourself.


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

What kind of cranks are you trying to remove? Assuming they are square-taper, the bolt you are trying to remove is the fixing bolt.

Both fixing bolts are removed lefty-loosey. Meaning they both have standard threading. You can then use your crank puller to pull the cranks off the spindle.

Sometimes, without proper lubrication, the bolt gets stuck. You will need to get some leverage on your hex wrench - I've found that an old seatpost slipped over the long end of my hex wrench seems to work well. Just make sure the wrench is fully seated in the bolt - you definitely don't want to round out the bolt head.


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## rkj__ (Feb 29, 2004)

It is not reverse threaded. Good luck.


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## Reelchef67 (Aug 21, 2011)

I had this problem with a left crank on an Isis bb
In the end 8mm bolt rounded out.
I ended up drilling the bolt through with a 3/8 bit 
I then used a bolt extractor
Like these







You hammer it in partly to get seated
You then put the crank arm in a vise
Use a very large crescent wrench .
My shoulder is sore. It was that stuck.
I got it out , didn't damage bob just needs new bolt


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Start with using a breaker bar to give yourself more leverage (a seatpost is actually a pretty good idea, as you likely have one lying around) as was suggested earlier. Most people aren't toting around an 8mm key that is long enough to budge stubborn bolts without some help.


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## Reelchef67 (Aug 21, 2011)

I had 14 inch long8mm. I had a piece off aluminum pipe slipped over it. 
Would not budge.
I used a massive adjustable wrench over foot and a bit long and even it was damaged a bit in the jaws . The bolt had rusted inside the shaft to the spindle.


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## drewvir (Aug 17, 2012)

alternate between kroil and a propane torch,(use caution as kroil is flamable but it's flashpoint is pretty high)
heat for about 30 sec then kroil. when you can touch bare handed heat again then try to loosen.
an impact driver will help if you have one
Impact driver - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil Bore Cleaning Solvent 8oz Liquid


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## ghettocop (Jul 26, 2011)

I've found that many really stuck fasteners benefit from an initial "impact" force to break free. Using tons of mechanical advantage and breaker bars just dont work. Try this......use a 3/8ths drive ratchet with 8mm bit if possible. Align the ratchet so it is either handle straight up at the twelve o'clock position or out to the nine o'clock position. Instead of muscling it counter-clockwize, get on a pair of gloves or even use a medium sized hammer and strike the ratchet handle in a counter-clockwize direction. Many times just striking it with your hand will give that jarring initial impact needed to break it free.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Time to hit the gym girlie man.


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

customfab said:


> Time to hit the gym girlie man.


lol .

FWIW I've broken many tools from stuck/frozen fasteners. There's a fine line between applying enough pressure and being too heavy-handed.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

jtmartino said:


> lol .
> 
> FWIW I've broken many tools from stuck/frozen fasteners. There's a fine line between applying enough pressure and being too heavy-handed.


Buy better quality tools!

If you know what your doing is correct, IE: not doubting weather the fastener is left hand thread. You've got little to loose. Of course if your applying torque with a crappy tool and risk rounding out the fastener that's a PITA. But if your buying quality tools that shouldn't be an issue.


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

customfab said:


> Buy better quality tools!
> .


I've broken quality tools too. Including Park stuff. Go talk to the guys over on the VRC forum about breaking tools and fasteners on seized parts on vintage rides. Happens quite often.

Work on enough bikes and stuff breaks. Especially if you're impatient and can't wait for chemical means to loosen seized bike parts.


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## Reelchef67 (Aug 21, 2011)

Well the crank bolt that I had stuck was on a 2006 factory installed gt idrive 5.
The wrench was a filzer 14 inch crank bolt Allen wrench.
Older bikes = more problems ..
I now have brand new raceface BB and race face Chester crank set installed on it, well worth the work and he 3,95 bolt extractor that I can reuse...


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

jtmartino said:


> I've broken quality tools too. Including Park stuff. Go talk to the guys over on the VRC forum about breaking tools and fasteners on seized parts on vintage rides. Happens quite often.
> 
> Work on enough bikes and stuff breaks. Especially if you're impatient and can't wait for chemical means to loosen seized bike parts.


I guess I've gotten pro enough that I've lost touch with what it's like to work on old clapped bikes.


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## Reelchef67 (Aug 21, 2011)

Well now I've taken apart everything and rebuilt it. It all comes apart nicely when needed. I weighed the bb that was in there 350 g ! New one is half that..


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

customfab said:


> I guess I've gotten pro enough that I've lost touch with what it's like to work on old clapped bikes.


I've never broken a tool on a bike, and I've worked on some messed up stuff (stored outside for 20+ years). More often, the bike/parts break.

Good tools make all the difference.


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