# Outboard Bearing Bottom Bracket Service Guide. With Pics.



## marsh rider (May 18, 2008)

*Originally posted by Hecubus*

Lately I've been reading a lot of posts asking how to service, clean, and regrease outboard bottom bracket systems. I took pictures of the process while working on my bike to explain how it's done. Maybe the moderators can make this thread sticky if people find it useful.

Manufactuers specify not to open up the cups and seem to claim that they are disposable once they wear out and should be replaced. That is quite silly since they are incredibly easy to service. They also claim they should last for years and not need service.The problem is the either low quality or very thin grease they use from the factory is normally not up to the challenge. If you keep them greased up they will last many years and will outlive any other bottom bracket system by a lot. If your bearings feel gritty and seem to bind and spin unevenly and prematurely worn out, they are not. These bearings are huge and quite difficult to damage. The problem is they are most likely dried out. Ride with them like that for too long and you will eventually damage them. Follow this guide and chances are they will start rolling like new again. As you should see the process is quite simple. These instructions are for the Race Face and Shimano versions but I'm sure they should apply to other brands as well.

Start by removing the crank arms from the bike. Don't remove the bearing cups from the frame though. Its actually easier to work on them on the frame. Use a long and thin flat head screwdriver or similar thin object to pop out the plastic dust cap covers. You need to insert them from behind. Wedge the scredriver GENTLY between the dust cap and bearing cup shell on the opposite side.









Tap the screwdriver gently until the cap starts popping off. When it starts comming out pull it out with you fingers. I can't emphazise the gently part enough. The caps are made of rather brittle plastic and they will crack if you force them too much. Make sure the head on the screwdriver is as thin as possible and not too wide. Otherwise it will stretch the cap too much and break it. NOTE that the Shimano cap has a thin rubber o-ring around the large outside edge of the cap. Be carefull not to damage it. The Race Face model does not have that o-ring.









Now you should see the bearing cartridge exposed. Pry off the dust seal from the cartridge with a sharp pointy tool. I use this dental like pick I got from a hobby shop.









The moment of truth. Now you will see how dirty or dry the bearings are. Flush out the bearing with the solvent of your choice or just squeeze fresh grease as it is. You can take the cup off the frame at this point if you want to dunk it in solvent or work on it more easily.









Once the bearing is cleaned out apply the grease of your choice. I've found very thick grease such as Pedro's Syn Grease to be an excellent choice for this application.









Squeeze the grease in all around the cartridge making sure it squeezes all the way inside. Once thats done. Snap the cartridge seal back in and clean off all the excess grease from the cup.









Finally snap the dust cover back in and you're good to go. 
Putting the dust cover on is a bit tricky. It has a lip around the inside which will make it deform and not want to snap back in. The trick is to press the cap firmly and evenly parallel to the cup, straight in. Don't work it around. You can use a piece of wood or firm flat object to press it in evenly. You can also put the seal on a table and press the cup firmly firnly onto the cap until it snaps in (with the cup removed from the frame obviously!). The Shimano cap is considerably easier to put back on than the Race Face one.









Put the crank arms back on and you're crankset should now roll better than ever!


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## marsh rider (May 18, 2008)

I saved this thread after it was removed just in case the cashed link went dead. I don't think Hecubus will mind me reposting it since he hasn't been active for 2 years.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Thank you for restoring the thread.


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## azpoolguy (Oct 23, 2008)

I performed this service a couple weeks ago. It was very easy. I had one bearing that was completely rusted and would not spin. I was able to resurrect it!
It is also very easy to pry out the dust covers from the bearings when the are removed. Still do it from the back of the bearing and be careful they are brittle. It is easier to see when removed from the frame. 
Good Luck.


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## Hecubus (Jan 12, 2004)

marsh rider said:


> I saved this thread after it was removed just in case the cashed link went dead. I don't think Hecubus will mind me reposting it since he hasn't been active for 2 years.


I'm still around. Just lurking and watching every now and then.  Thank you for keeping this thread alive. I had no idea it would ever become so popular when I made it but glad to see how many people it helped out. Just curios why did the original get deleted


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## Mbayushi (Aug 17, 2006)

just did this, it was super easy.

When I opened up the cup, there was no grease in it, I'm really glad I did this now.


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## gregtherider (May 4, 2009)

does anyone know what to do with BB30 system? my friend has lapierre with bb30 and shimano XT cranks and it seems that there is plenty of dust and no grease in the bearings. what to do? can I open them whit the same procedure like above?


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

gregtherider said:


> does anyone know what to do with BB30 system? my friend has lapierre with bb30 and shimano XT cranks and it seems that there is plenty of dust and no grease in the bearings. what to do? can I open them whit the same procedure like above?


There's no way he has a bike with a BB30 bottom bracket that is using XT cranks.

He probably (almost certainly) has an adapter and is using a regular Shimano bottom bracket.


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## gregtherider (May 4, 2009)

nope, it defenatly has bb30 system no adapter and it`s not regular bottom bracket.
in lapierre specification says: Bottom Bracket : SHIMANO INTEGRATED CARTRIDGES.
I also read that shimano made that type of bottom brackets only for lapirre and pivot cycles. 
I was just wondering if anybody did open this thing.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

gregtherider said:


> nope, it defenatly has bb30 system no adapter and it`s not regular bottom bracket.
> in lapierre specification says: Bottom Bracket : SHIMANO INTEGRATED CARTRIDGES.
> I also read that shimano made that type of bottom brackets only for lapirre and pivot cycles.
> I was just wondering if anybody did open this thing.


That isn't BB30, its just the same Shimano XT bearings pressed directly into the frame. BB30 cranks and BB have different dimensions than standard outboard bearings setups and are not interchangeable

In that case it should still be the same procedure because the bearings should be the same


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

So easy a cave man could do it. My bearings had very little grease, they wouldn't have lasted too long if I hadn't of done this job.

I suggest using a different tool to remove the black plastic caps. I tried pushing them out with a screwdriver as the OP suggested but the edges inside were getting damaged. Its better if you can use something to pull on them instead. I ended up using a paint can opener to 'hook' the inside edge. Work your way around and pry in a few places and they will come out with no damage.


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## Mbayushi (Aug 17, 2006)

i used a chopstick to push the black plastic cups out.


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## Lone_Rider74 (Jun 17, 2008)

I just checked mine and found out that on one of the bearings that the only thing spinning is the outside dust cap and the rest is completely seized up lol.

I was able to take of the dust cap but got stuck on taking off the dust seal because got no sharp pick object - guess gotta wait til later. luckily i got a spare BB. 

Future design recommendation: *built in grease ports*


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## moonraker (Jan 22, 2004)

This is what your balls will look like if you wait to long to clean and re-grease










I ordered a new set of sealed bearings from enduroforkseals.com. I had the tools in the machine shop, an expanding mandrel and collet, to drive out the bearing from the cup. Much cheaper than buying a whole new BB.

BTW, this is from a 3 yr old. Shimano XT HT II


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## acctnut (Dec 1, 2008)

Thanks for this info. It saved a few bucks. My bearing was completely seized and it took a few cleanings with carb cleaner, simple green and finaly WD-40 loosened it up. It took me about 30 minutes to free it up so it would spin. These bearing don't seal very well as there was lots of grit and some rust in there. Cleaned out the WD-40 and packed with phils. Works much better now and I'll likely just clean and repack a couple times a year from now on.


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## Javaun (Jun 17, 2007)

Thanks for reposting! I did this a few years ago on my own and it took me a while to figure out. then someone showed me hecubus's original post and I bookmarked it -- only to find it was gone! Rode the Hoo Hah in the Shenandoah a few weeks ago (if you can call walking through a riverbed "riding") and the BB is frozen solid.


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## bbgobie (Apr 20, 2006)

Thx
Just did this on my Truvative crank
Just a dust cap, and than seals, very easy. Dust cap you can take out with your finger.

Make sure you put the outter caps on the same side when you reassemble, as 1 of them will not let the crank spline pass through, that should be non drive side.


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## displayground (Jul 15, 2009)

Will this work with most recent shimano xt bottom bracket? I ask because my BB has "Do Not Disassemble" printed all over it. Is that just to keep the mechanically inept from destroying their BBs?


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

displayground said:


> Will this work with most recent shimano xt bottom bracket? I ask because my BB has "Do Not Disassemble" printed all over it. Is that just to keep the mechanically inept from destroying their BBs?


Yep and yep. Nothing has changed in their design


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## 6thElement (Jul 17, 2006)

Just performed on my 760 XT BB, non-driveside cover was a littler tougher to get off but otherwise a simple job.

Thanks to the OP.


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## MiLi (Aug 23, 2008)

hello.

i need to change right bearing on my howitzer. how can i take out bearing from cartridge? need i to unmount cartridge with special tool or can i take bearing out with cartridge still fixed on a frame?

can somebody please tell me which bearings (code on the bearing) is in the howitzer bb?










thanks


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## gmookher (May 17, 2005)

does opting for ceramic bearings negate the need for this maintenance? Is there a trade off in durability? strenght? just curious


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## dragonbiker (Sep 1, 2009)

*Shimano Bearing Removal from Bottom Bracket Cup*

This is a great thread and great information. 
I was trying to figure out a way to remove the bearing from the cup and found this post. 
Without having to purchase anything using things I had around the garage, I figured out a way to do this. 
Don't laugh, this actually works and you don't have to buy the tool.
Along with a vice, these are the "tools" I used, you can see I've already removed one bearing already:








Follow the advice above for removal of dust cap, I chose to do it with a small screwdriver but holding the cup in my hand.
Next Remove the bearing cap:
















Then insert a wall anchor, I had this size lying around, it expands to fit to press against the inside race of the bearing:








Insert this assembly, using a block of wood to protect your Bearing cup in your vice and slooowly crank down. You'll feed the bearing pop loose, then slooowly crank some more to push the bearing close to the face of the cup. Check periodically so you don't crush anything. STOP short of the cup face...








Then insert a plastic plumbers compression fitting washer (found in plumber repair kit or you can buy at HD for cheap)








Insert that assembly into vice and sloowly crank, the washer will compress somewhat but the bearing is already almost out at this point.








Voila, your bearing is out:








To re-insert new bearing, I found an old part from the bin which worked perfectly to press the bearing back into place using the vice and wood block.









Now you can keep your cups indefinitely and/or replace your BB bearing with ceramic or new steel ones. Easy, free, no special tool.
-hope this helps someone.


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## Fat Bob (Mar 5, 2004)

6thElement said:


> Just performed on my 760 XT BB, non-driveside cover was a littler tougher to get off but otherwise a simple job.
> 
> Thanks to the OP.


Just did this today, the non drive side would not comply on a Shimano BB. Couldn't get a screwdriver in the gap. Anyone fab a tool to help push/pull the cap? I tried to make a small headset cup style remover out of some thin walled metal tube, but it just wasn't strong enough. Might try a heavier guage copper tube moving forward, but wanted to see if anyone had a DIY solution yet.

cheers,

FB


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## Rich_au (Jan 9, 2007)

*Resurrecting seized bottom brackets.*

Some clever techniques posted here. Well done.
First, answers to a few questions previously posted.
1) Ceramic bottom brackets are also vulnerable to water and rust because most have steel races. I once freed up a seized pair of ceramic bearings.
2) Sometimes you can pry off caps by leaving the cups on the bike and pushing the crank spindle back through slightly off center.

I went through my box of seized BB cups and tried to free them up. Lots of WD-40 didn't help and neither did my ultrasonic cleaner.
I solved the problem in the end by wrapping a single layer of rim tape around the spindle of my crank (after cleaning it up). I then wedged a cup onto the crank. Using the cup removal tool and the pedal for leverage, I managed to free up all seized bearings, even ones that had been rusted for years. See this pic.








After cleaning them up (and a lot of rust came out!) I have loads of spares.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

OP - awesome how-to!! :thumbsup:

I did this today following these tips... of course, I fugged up the seals a tiny bit (was impatient - my fault! :blush , but still useable and gives me a bit of extra life for the BB...

the grease that was there was quite thin and water logged... and on the drive side there was hardly any grease left... so packed it well with new Park Tool Polylube grease... I'm riding tomorrow so should see how well it goes.... hopefully no clicking... 

anyone know where one can buy some replacement caps and seals? for future reference... next time i take it apart, the caps & seals might be rendered unusable... would be nice to source some jobber part... rather than having to buy a new BB....


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## agabriel (Jul 3, 2007)

Hmmm... Home grown tools are cool - but sometimes its nice to have the right tool. Since it hasn't been mentioned you may want to try this one:
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id114.html

it works really well.


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## TNO (Jun 15, 2009)

This is a great thread. 
I didn't think that you could do this on outboard BBs especially with the 'DO NOT DISASSEMBLE' printed on my m970 cups. This procedure is so easy. Turns out, my bearings are pretty rusty (not seized though) but after re-greasing, I should be able to get a good amount of life out of them yet. Wish I had found this link months ago.

I'll have to get a press in the future or get a few items like dragonbiker used to put in some new bearings and then not letting them rust away.



> Just did this today, the non drive side would not comply on a Shimano BB. Couldn't get a screwdriver in the gap.


Fat Bob, I had the same issue on the non-drive side. So, instead of pushing the dustcap out from the rear, I used a mini slothead screwdriver to pry under the cap from the front. Once under, just keep shimmying around the cup until the the cap pops out.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

The reason for "DO NOT DISASSEMBLE" is most likely because "BB maker" wants you to buy a new BB every time the bearings go bad... More money for them... Whereas is you actually service them - "BB maker" doesn't get revenue... it's BS if you ask me...

I'm glad I was pointed to this thread as well! :thumbsup:


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Besides maybe living longer and no susceptible to corrosion, anyone know if ceramic bearings have less friction? The ceramic bearings on enduroseals are decently priced (although still about 3 - 4 times as much as steel ones...)

thnx


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## Rich_au (Jan 9, 2007)

They have less friction because they run thinner grease. If you replace this with standard grease at some stage, you will increase friction. I regreased mine with thick marine grease and it got more resistance. But it is so hot here in Australia that it thins out again! Raced on the weekend in 99 degree heat.

Ceramic bearings can still corrode. I learnt the hard way that the races corrode. The balls are very durable tho. I wonder if they can be transferred into new races after the bearing is eventually worn out?


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Is there a similar how to on freehub regreasing? obviously more variations in types of rear freehubs... but just curious... as it could use some maintenance as well...

cheers

EDIT: found this link on here... from Park's site...

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=45


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## GFisher2001 (Mar 16, 2006)

dragonbiker said:


> This is a great thread and great information.
> I was trying to figure out a way to remove the bearing from the cup and found this post.
> Without having to purchase anything using things I had around the garage, I figured out a way to do this.
> Don't laugh, this actually works and you don't have to buy the tool.
> ...


Any other homebrew ideas? I just ruined 5 of those wall anchors and couldn't get the bearing to budge? Does the 5 dollar tool from enduroforkseals, work? I can't spend $120 on a tool.


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## tennessee17 (Oct 26, 2004)

I tried to service a Mega Exo bottom bracket. When I removed the bearing seal (the one under the top cap) all of the bearings rolled together! The bearing seal was also the bearing retainer! I cannot get the bearings align with the bearing spaces on the seal! 

I tried to disassemble the bottom bracket using the FSA bearing tool. For those that believe this $ 30 tool to be a cheap alternative to the Phil Wood or Enduro tools, please reconsider! I cannot get the bearing out of either the FSA cup, or another old Shimano cup.

Am I missing something?


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## outside! (Mar 15, 2006)

Hey Marsh Rider - Nice Stanley Hurwood screwdriver. Looks to be from the 1960's or earlier. Take good care of your dads's tools!


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## thebronze (Jan 13, 2004)

tennessee17 said:


> I tried to service a Mega Exo bottom bracket. When I removed the bearing seal (the one under the top cap) all of the bearings rolled together! The bearing seal was also the bearing retainer! I cannot get the bearings align with the bearing spaces on the seal!
> 
> I tried to disassemble the bottom bracket using the FSA bearing tool. For those that believe this $ 30 tool to be a cheap alternative to the Phil Wood or Enduro tools, please reconsider! I cannot get the bearing out of either the FSA cup, or another old Shimano cup.
> 
> Am I missing something?


Probably too late, but I took my mega exo BB cups apart today using a star nut setting tool as a driver. I put the cups in a vice and tapped out the bearings with a rubber mallet from the inside. You could also tap them out with a 21 or 22 mm socket. The bearings appear to be exactly the same size bearings as my shimano BB. I think both bearings are 37mm OD, 25mm ID. I ordered an enduro bearing kit and i'll post back if everything works out. I plan to use the exo cups, enduro bearings, and shimano xt cranks.

Whats cool about the mega exo is the cups stick out so you can tap out the bearings easily from behind. I compared them to my shimano cups and the exo are totally different on the inside. Shimano machines the cups so the bearings sit in a recess making it impossible to pop out the bearings easily. They probably claim this is to better seal them but it really looks like they are making a disposable unit. The exo bearings are easily pressed out from the inside.

I didnt have any trouble with either set prying off the rubber caps with a small screwdriver from the inside. This is a great thread.


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## crazyjeys (Jul 2, 2007)

thebronze said:


> Probably too late, but I took my mega exo BB cups apart today using a star nut setting tool as a driver. I put the cups in a vice and tapped out the bearings with a rubber mallet from the inside. You could also tap them out with a 21 or 22 mm socket. The bearings appear to be exactly the same size bearings as my shimano BB. I think both bearings are 37mm OD, 25mm ID. I ordered an enduro bearing kit and i'll post back if everything works out. I plan to use the exo cups, enduro bearings, and shimano xt cranks.
> 
> Whats cool about the mega exo is the cups stick out so you can tap out the bearings easily from behind. I compared them to my shimano cups and the exo are totally different on the inside. Shimano machines the cups so the bearings sit in a recess making it impossible to pop out the bearings easily. They probably claim this is to better seal them but it really looks like they are making a disposable unit. The exo bearings are easily pressed out from the inside.
> 
> I didnt have any trouble with either set prying off the rubber caps with a small screwdriver from the inside. This is a great thread.


planning to rebuild my mega exo BB. do you have pics on how you did it? what enduro bearings did you use? will the shimano hollowtech II bearings fit?


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## agabriel (Jul 3, 2007)

did you goto their website?
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id230.html


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Great write-up thanks.
My race face was pretty nasty, some grease left but was dirty & gritty. Feels like new again.


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## frank daleview (Jan 23, 2004)

I just rebuilt my old X-type bearings. Used 1/2 can of WD40 to blast out all the crap from the inside. The sad thing is that one of my plastic bearing shields litteraly crumbled as I tried to replace it...does anyone know where to get replacements or if it even possible?


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## thebronze (Jan 13, 2004)

crazyjeys said:


> planning to rebuild my mega exo BB. do you have pics on how you did it? what enduro bearings did you use? will the shimano hollowtech II bearings fit?


No pics, it was really easy though. I drove them out with a star nut setter but a 22mm socket or similar diameter object would work. The bearings are easily driven out from the inside. I used the old bearings to press in the new ones in my hobby vice. The enduro kit for the shimano/raceface bearings fit perfectly.


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## mnigro (Jul 31, 2007)

iceaxe said:


> I just rebuilt my old X-type bearings. Used 1/2 can of WD40 to blast out all the crap from the inside. The sad thing is that one of my plastic bearing shields litteraly crumbled as I tried to replace it...does anyone know where to get replacements or if it even possible?


iceaxe, ever find out where to get the bearing shields? I need one too.


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

I've done this procedure on my RF Atlas cranks. What the OP (Marsh Rider) said is true about the dust sleeve thing. It is very brittle and easy to break. Be very careful working it out. Also a bit of a PITB to get back in.

Even after cleaning and re-greasing I have a very annoying clicking sound on the power stroke of the both sides. New bearing time? Sounds like the Enduro Bearings are the way to go.... or should I just pick up a new Atlas or Diabolous BB from Price Point for $30?


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## Noob7_0 (Jul 15, 2007)

In a related question to KRob, does this service eliminate the clicking when pedaling?


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## work-ed (Nov 13, 2006)

^ Same question, does this solve the crunch that occurs while pedaling?


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## agabriel (Jul 3, 2007)

if the bearings in the BB are shot and causing the noise it should.


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## zenkem (Dec 18, 2007)

Service my BB last night in less then an hour and I was taking it easy to ensure I didn't screw it up. Turned out I didn't really need to service the bearings but they did have a lot of sand in the seals and it looked like it would only be a matter of time before the sand was going to make it into the bearings. So, it seems to be a little preventative maintenance for now. I guess it's a good idea to service the BB every couple months isn't it??? THX again for sharing this info...it's well worth the savings ($$$)...


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## thebronze (Jan 13, 2004)

Update, the mega exo is incredibly smooth with the enduro bearing upgrade. Way better than stock, it just spins like it should. The only problem is the bearings pop out of the cups easily now. I took off the crank to install a stinger and they both popped off. You can tap them back in with a mallet but i'm wondering if the shimano cups would be a better fit since the inner recesses are tighter.


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## agabriel (Jul 3, 2007)

I haven't had that problem. Everything fit together and has stayed that way...


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## tate6969 (Oct 6, 2009)

f-ing great thread.

just serviced my sram red ceramic bb and its great. so easy, if you're patient.
ill be doing it more often for sure.


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## gsxunv04 (May 10, 2010)

I have a Shimano Acera FC-M341-S, 42/32/22 crankset and a FSA BB-7420ST bottom bracket. Will a regular crank puller work for removing my crank? Also, are there any other speial tools I will need to service my BB?
I am learning how to work on my bike, and am in the process of rounding up all the necessary tools and equipment.

Thanks for the help

PS will this puller suffice?
http://www.rei.com/product/546065?p...-81F9-DE11-BAE3-0019B9C043EB&mr:referralID=NA


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

MiLi said:


> hello.
> 
> i need to change right bearing on my howitzer. how can i take out bearing from cartridge? need i to unmount cartridge with special tool or can i take bearing out with cartridge still fixed on a frame?
> 
> ...


Unfortunately the howitzer BB uses completely non standard bearings. There isn't a single dimension on them that matches any catalogue bearing. You could possibly fit a 6805, but it would need both inner and outer sleeves on each side.
I am looking into getting some made in that size, but it all depends on the numbers, can I sell enough to make it worthwhile?

If anyone is interested, contact me via the shockcraft website and I'll see if there is enough demand.


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## TucksMedicAided (Nov 26, 2009)

Race Face X-Type BB
Just cracked one of the dust caps putting it back on  
The non-drive side was siezed (after about four rides and only two wet ones). The non-drive side has the green sealed x-type bearing, but the drive side has an orange seal bearing marked 6805-2RS (which is in perfect shape).
The dust cap also seems to function as a shim (since it extends inside the inner diameter of the bearing). Has anyone run the X-type without the dust cap (maybe with phil wood bearings installed)? I'm curious if there's a solution to the fragile dust cap issue that just eliminates the dust cap.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

TucksMedicAided said:


> Race Face X-Type BB
> Just cracked one of the dust caps putting it back on
> The non-drive side was siezed (after about four rides and only two wet ones). The non-drive side has the green sealed x-type bearing, but the drive side has an orange seal bearing marked 6805-2RS (which is in perfect shape).
> The dust cap also seems to function as a shim (since it extends inside the inner diameter of the bearing). Has anyone run the X-type without the dust cap (maybe with phil wood bearings installed)? I'm curious if there's a solution to the fragile dust cap issue that just eliminates the dust cap.


The enduro bearings eliminate the dust cap. They use a bearing with a slightly smaller internal diameter.


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## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

Dougal said:


> The enduro bearings eliminate the dust cap. They use a bearing with a slightly smaller internal diameter.


And Enduro uses an extra oversized rubber dust seal over the bearing units to cover up the berings.

RaceFace X-type BB I had (Deus) totally crapped out on me in 9 months. Changed to Enduro, and was a leap. And got a hold XTR and the bearing seals are so tight and sturdy, grease inside was still factory moist clean after 2 years of neglect. Now that was impressive. Also RF had full complement bearings (not sure with the new design) on BB bearings, where Shimano and Enduro use max bearings. Just saying.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

hatake said:


> RaceFace X-type BB I had (Deus) totally crapped out on me in 9 months. Changed to Enduro, and was a leap. And got a hold XTR and the bearing seals are so tight and sturdy, grease inside was still factory moist clean after 2 years of neglect. Now that was impressive. Also RF had full complement bearings (not sure with the new design) on BB bearings, where Shimano and Enduro use max bearings. Just saying.


MAX and Full Complement bearings are the same thing. MAX is simply the name Enduro use for marketing purposes
.
The raceface bearings are full complement and I believe this is why they don't last. In a continuous rotation situation (like a BB) the balls rub on each other and create wear particles. These wear particles get between the balls and races and cause more wear. Eventually the bearing either wears out or seizes.

Shimano, FSA, Enduro etc all use caged bearings in their BB's. They appear to last much better than the full complement used by RF. The enduro bearings with the smaller ID have bigger balls that the rest who use plastic sleeves. However most bearings I see die due to water ingress (along the axle), very few actually wear out.


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## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

Dougal said:


> MAX and Full Complement bearings are the same thing. MAX is simply the name Enduro use for marketing purposes


I stand corrected. Yes, Shimano uses caged bearings and RF doesn't. Not sure why I messed it up since I was repacking my XT a week before.


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## SWriverstone (Sep 3, 2009)

Following the tips in this thread, I serviced my Shimano external bearings on one side. Sure enough, it was surprisingly simple to get the cap off—I actually removed the bearing from the frame, then just held the bearing sideways in one hand while carefully sliding a thin-tipped screwdriver under the inside lip of the cap in the other hand—the cap popped right off, easy-peasy!

Here's the not-so-good news...

When I popped off the 2nd cap (to expose the bearings) my bearings looked spotless. I found it difficult to see exactly what was between the bearings? Obviously some sort of bearing spacers...but I couldn't quite tell where the spacer ended, where the grease began, where the tiny spaces were inbetween?

Anyway...just for the hell of it, I flushed out the bearings with WD-40 (I'd never use WD-40 as a lubricant, but find it works very well for cleaning greasy parts). Then I shook/wiped/dried everything out as best I could...and finally packed some good-quality waterproof grease into the bearings.

The bottom line? When I rolled (with a finger) the bearings on the one I serviced and compared it with the other side that I had NOT touched...the one I serviced did NOT feel as smooth! (WTF?)

The bearing I never touched felt smooth as silk...while I could actually feel the bearings turning in the one I serviced.

So this kinda bummed me out, as it made me feel like I'd actually made one side worse. I'm guessing it's nothing to worry about, because I *did* clean and repack with waterproof grease...but still...

Scott


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

You need to be extremely clean to get a bearing to run silky smooth, you'd need to take the cage out and clean everything until it sparkles. Difficult to do with the bearing in situ.


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## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

Given a goofy post I made above, you may want to take this with a grain of salt, but I do use degreaser in a coffee cup, bearings dipped, then wash it with old tooth brush really good. Spin the thing for 2 min in it. After that, clean it up with Palmoilve to get degreaser off, then soak it into rubbing alcohol, shook for a while, take it out and blow dry it. Then lube it with a plenty of Phil Wood green grease, but not so much it spews out and attract dirt.

Compared to Enduro, 770 seals has a raised lip on inner circumference that sticks to the crank arm interface and totally seals off dirt. I did not feel any contaminant after 2 years so I think it works well. XTR (970) is much like Enduro but the seals have much thicker metal backings and seals bearings pretty well too.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

Those are the cleanest cups I've ever seen. You'd be amazed at the dirt, grease and junk that gets behind the bearings of most of the ones we refit.

I also noticed you have no garks in the cup teeth, what tool are you using to remove and refit?


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

hatake said:


> Given a goofy post I made above, you may want to take this with a grain of salt, but I do use degreaser in a coffee cup, bearings dipped, then wash it with old tooth brush really good. Spin the thing for 2 min in it. After that, clean it up with Palmoilve to get degreaser off, then soak it into rubbing alcohol, shook for a while, take it out and blow dry it. Then lube it with a plenty of Phil Wood green grease, but not so much it spews out and attract dirt.
> 
> Compared to Enduro, 770 seals has a raised lip on inner circumference that sticks to the crank arm interface and totally seals off dirt. I did not feel any contaminant after 2 years so I think it works well. XTR (970) is much like Enduro but the seals have much thicker metal backings and seals bearings pretty well too.


use a different degreaser and you can skip the palmolive step. For example, mineral spirits evaporates without residue. A soak and scrub in mineral spirits follow by a rinse in fresh mineral spirits or alcohol should be all you need, imho.


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## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

True to all that. I will get mineral spirits before the next cleaning. I just have too many bottles of degreasers from years of ignorant purchasing habits.

I don't ride this bike (full suspension) as much as I do my ss with m970, thus cleaner. Also 970 is black, so those cups look like beaten to death. There are light scuff marks on XT too, just doesn't show much in the picture. I only have open end BB tool.

Speaking of degreaser, a buddy of mine gave me a Spin Doctor Degreaser (http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1030897_-1_1552500_20000_400042) to have me clean his bike. It was a wasted $7. Regular bar of soap works much better than that. I apprecaited his guesture but not the product he gave me. It goes on the shelf next to all these other degreasers.


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## nick d (May 25, 2007)

hatake said:


> And Enduro uses an extra oversized rubber dust seal over the bearing units to cover up the berings.
> 
> RaceFace X-type BB I had (Deus) totally crapped out on me in 9 months. Changed to Enduro, and was a leap. And got a hold XTR and the bearing seals are so tight and sturdy, grease inside was still factory moist clean after 2 years of neglect. Now that was impressive. Also RF had full complement bearings (not sure with the new design) on BB bearings, where Shimano and Enduro use max bearings. Just saying.


are you using the xtr bb with the rf deus crankset? i had one of the plastic sheilds break on me and im trying to decide whether to buy a new bb or do the enduro upgrade. if i do get a new bb i dont think ill go rf cause of the plastic shiled/shim weak point


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## nick d (May 25, 2007)

TucksMedicAided said:


> Race Face X-Type BB
> Just cracked one of the dust caps putting it back on
> The non-drive side was siezed (after about four rides and only two wet ones). The non-drive side has the green sealed x-type bearing, but the drive side has an orange seal bearing marked 6805-2RS (which is in perfect shape).
> The dust cap also seems to function as a shim (since it extends inside the inner diameter of the bearing). Has anyone run the X-type without the dust cap (maybe with phil wood bearings installed)? I'm curious if there's a solution to the fragile dust cap issue that just eliminates the dust cap.


http://www.ride-this.com/index.php/phil-wood-external-bb-standard-dust-cover-ea.html :thumbsup:


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

nick d said:


> http://www.ride-this.com/index.php/phil-wood-external-bb-standard-dust-cover-ea.html :thumbsup:


I have found every BB to use it's own unique plastic sleeve. While they will all fit to some degree, the chances of them making the BB too wide, too narrow or rubbing the cups is very good. It will be a fluke if the phil wood sleeves work.

I have a selection of used plastic sleeves and new sleeves from FSA and Monocrome. But chances are your LBS also has a dead BB of matching brand that you can gently prise the sleeves from. People have told me that RF spares are available, but I can't confirm.


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## JTrue (Mar 23, 2007)

So has anyone found a good method to remove the bearings from XTR960-970 cups without spending $50-$120 on a tool. I removed one bearing by using a tool similar to what I use to remove headset's. But on one cup there is a lip that prevents you from driving the bearing out from the inside. The largest size of drop anchor I could find was 3/4 inch, do those expand enough to catch the inner race(25mm or .98")? Harbor Freight sells a pilot bearing puller for $16.99 I was thinking about modifying to work, but if someone has any other ideas post em up. Cheaper the better. Thanks!

Harbor Freight Pilot Bearing Puller:

To make it work I believe I would need to grind a lip on the end of the jaws to slip between the bearing and inside machined lip. Has anyone use a little heat to help loosen them up before pulling them?

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

There are a whole lot of options, it all depends on what you have available and what you're willing to do.

That lip is only there to make bearing removal difficult, so turning it off on a lathe or just cutting it down with a dremel will work fine.
If you are removing dead bearings, then you've got a lot more options than if you're removing bearings you plan to reuse.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

this looks to be the offseason for me to be servicing the bearings on my bike. I'm already going to service my hubs and the pivot bearings. This looks simple enough that I might as well check out my BB, too.


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## huka (Feb 7, 2009)

moonraker said:


> This is what your balls will look like if you wait to long to clean and re-grease
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Moonraker, could you pls post your step-by-step information to replace bearing in outer BB.? I really want to know cause I dont know how to do and what tools to use...


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## JTrue (Mar 23, 2007)

Nevermind, realized it was a bb removal tool.


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

Some home made tool ideas here


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## fishguy (Oct 6, 2008)

I am glad I found this thread. I hope it is not too old and someone is still monitoring it. 

I was installing my shimano outboard bb and like an idiot forgot one of the spacers and over tightened it and broke the plastic sleeve on the inside.

How important is this plastic sleeve? I imagine it is there for a reason but I am wondering if I am out of luck and need to buy a new bb or if it is not a big deal. Any info is appreciated!!!


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

The plastic sleeve is there to keep any water or debris inside your frame out of the BB. It does a fairly good job of that, most of the water that gets into a BB comes in along the axle.


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## fishguy (Oct 6, 2008)

Awesome. that makes sense about the debris. If I can't conjure up some way to replace it, I'll just pick up a new one.

Thanks!


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

Every bike shop should have a graveyard of them.


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## Burkeman (Jan 23, 2004)

I attempted last night to service my bearings on my Shimano XT external bottom bracket. I had no problem getting out the plastic cover but the rubber cover over the bearings on the inside seemed to want to tear so I stopped trying to get it out. Right now the bearings feel really rough on it and it is actually hard to spin them despite the fact that I replaced them last spring. I'd rather service them then have to replace them again as that is far too expensive. 

Also, if I do manage to get in there and it looks like the bearings are too far gone, what is the major difference between the XT and XTR bearings/cups? Can on use XTR bearings cups with XT crankset and if so would there be any advantage to doing so? Prices on these two parts are only about $5 apart.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Burkeman said:


> I attempted last night to service my bearings on my Shimano XT external bottom bracket. I had no problem getting out the plastic cover but the rubber cover over the bearings on the inside seemed to want to tear so I stopped trying to get it out. Right now the bearings feel really rough on it and it is actually hard to spin them despite the fact that I replaced them last spring. I'd rather service them then have to replace them again as that is far too expensive.
> 
> Also, if I do manage to get in there and it looks like the bearings are too far gone, what is the major difference between the XT and XTR bearings/cups? Can on use XTR bearings cups with XT crankset and if so would there be any advantage to doing so? Prices on these two parts are only about $5 apart.


If the bearings are at the point that they need to be replaced then replace just the bearings not the whole cup. These BB cups use normal cartridge bearings that can be pressed out of the cup and new bearings can be pressed back in. Top of the line steel cartridge bearings from Enduro are less than $20 for the set, and your LBS likely has experience replacing them. You can also do this at home without special tools if you're careful


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## Burkeman (Jan 23, 2004)

boomn said:


> If the bearings are at the point that they need to be replaced then replace just the bearings not the whole cup. These BB cups use normal cartridge bearings that can be pressed out of the cup and new bearings can be pressed back in. Top of the line steel cartridge bearings from Enduro are less than $20 for the set, and your LBS likely has experience replacing them. You can also do this at home without special tools if you're careful


Not sure how to get the bearings out without the tools for it.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Burkeman said:


> Not sure how to get the bearings out without the tools for it.


Secure the BB cup and hammer the bearing out from the back side, taking care not to make it go crooked during the process. It damages the bearing but that doesn't matter if you're removing it to throw it away.

There are a couple ways to press them back in that are better than just using a hammer. A circular steel object that is about the same diameter as outer race of the bearing can be used to safely push against the bearing to press it in. I've heard a socket works great for this, I just can't remember what the right size socket is to use for this. Safely mount the BB cup, bearing and socket in a vise and tighten the vise till the bearing is all the way in. You can also make a bearing press with a long threaded bolt and stacks of washers. Tighten down the nut and it pulls the bearing into the cup.

You can buy appropriate bearing tools for not too much money, but if you're just wanting to avoid the possible problems of DIY bearing replacement you're better off taking it to a shop with some bearing tools. I can't believe they'd charge much at all for the service given the time it would take with the proper tools.


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## veryavgwhtguy (Jul 31, 2008)

I just used a socket and 16oz hammer to tap the bearing out of the cup. I held the cup/socket assembly in my hand when doing this. 

Then, used the wood hammer handle to tap the new one in. I braced the cup against the workbench for this step. 

(i.e. no need to buy the $120 bearing tool unless you like workbench jewelry.)


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## Burkeman (Jan 23, 2004)

I did manage to get the internal cap off and see the bearings. I cleaned them out as well as I could and greased things up really good before putting the caps back on. There was pretty much nothing in there but grit and grime and they were moving really roughly but with the new grease in there they moved freely and will hopefully be a lot smoother pedalling. I'll see how this goes for a while and if there isn't a huge improvement I'll look to getting some endura bearings down the road.


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## ride the biscuit (Jun 4, 2009)

to update this with my experience with Shimano XT BB, model SMBB70:

I tried to service my non-drive side bearing, and the bearing was not the same as that pictured in the original OP

I didnt take pics, but it was amazing i got the damn thing back together. there a plastic piece that holds the balls within the correct space of eachother and blocks you from greasing it while still in the bearing. 

when i put everything back together, it was not right, there is a little play. 

ended up ordering a new bb but thats fine since it was on its way out anyways and i found out personally this model is not serviceable


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

ride the biscuit said:


> to update this with my experience with Shimano XT BB, model SMBB70:
> 
> I tried to service my non-drive side bearing, and the bearing was not the same as that pictured in the original OP
> 
> ...


That is the plastic retainer (aka cage). You can take it out to better clean and grease the bearings.

They are all servicable, despite what shimano tells you.


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## ride the biscuit (Jun 4, 2009)

Dougal said:


> That is the plastic retainer (aka cage). You can take it out to better clean and grease the bearings.
> 
> They are all servicable, despite what shimano tells you.


well when i got it all back in it wasnt tight like it should be...pretty sure i didnt miss anything and the seal is locked in exactly as it should be.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

ride the biscuit said:


> well when i got it all back in it wasnt tight like it should be...pretty sure i didnt miss anything and the seal is locked in exactly as it should be.


Do you mean the bearings how had play in them?

I'm still looking for a good source of straight replacement bearings for these shimano BB's. So far I've found several options but none just as I want them.


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## ride the biscuit (Jun 4, 2009)

Dougal said:


> Do you mean the bearings how had play in them?
> 
> I'm still looking for a good source of straight replacement bearings for these shimano BB's. So far I've found several options but none just as I want them.


yes, i even had to carefully make sure that each ball was properly spaced to allow the ball cage to slide back in, and after that there was still some play

i just went online and got a new BB because a whole new BB on sale online was not a lot more than new bearings for each side (im guessing, didnt price the bearings out) and that doesnt even account for buying tools to do the work to remove/install bearings into the cup


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

ride the biscuit said:


> yes, i even had to carefully make sure that each ball was properly spaced to allow the ball cage to slide back in, and after that there was still some play
> 
> i just went online and got a new BB because a whole new BB on sale online was not a lot more than new bearings for each side (im guessing, didnt price the bearings out) and that doesnt even account for buying tools to do the work to remove/install bearings into the cup


A complete kit of two Enduro steel cartridge bearings is $15 and should outlast the stock bearings. The proper tools are definitely expensive, but some shops have appropriate bearings tools already, and there are also ways to do it at home without any complicated tools.


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## ride the biscuit (Jun 4, 2009)

boomn said:


> The proper tools are definitely expensive, but some shops have appropriate bearings tools already, and there are also ways to do it at home without any complicated tools.


a lot of it also comes down to the fact that i recently moved to a new area and have not had great experiences at some of the shops around here. the closest one i really like is an hour away.

plus, when you factor in shipping for the enduro bearings, i only paid about double that


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## ProjectDan35 (Jul 19, 2010)

Is Park Tool ( PPL-1 ) Polylube 1000 a good grease for shimano EBB?


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## axelbaker (Jun 17, 2011)

The way OBBs are designed I am surprised no one offers a nice one that has a zerk fitting on it. Dougal you mentioned you were looking in to getting some custom bearings made. How difficult or expensive would it be to spec them with a ports on the sides, then install a zerk on the aluminum cups like you see on pillow blocks?


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

axelbaker said:


> The way OBBs are designed I am surprised no one offers a nice one that has a zerk fitting on it. Dougal you mentioned you were looking in to getting some custom bearings made. How difficult or expensive would it be to spec them with a ports on the sides, then install a zerk on the aluminum cups like you see on pillow blocks?


It's certainly possible, the biggest problem is the order size for custom bearings like that and the similar number of modifications to the BB cups.

But while injecting more grease in can help, the biggest problem is getting the water out. If water has entered the bearings (most common failure method bar none) then chances are your races and balls have already corroded. Fresh grease injected will get them moving again, but they'll be crunchy and the rust flakes will continue to damage the bearing with every rotation.

I'm very happy with my CNC Storm Drain modification. To date I have had no bearing failures with these, where the same BB's with the same bearings but no CNC Storm Drains can fail in as little as 3 months.
The short term failures are all bb's that somehow got water in, then sat and corroded. The bearings typically seize. BB's that continue to be ridden go a lot further before the damage is noticed. When regularly ridden a water damaged bearing will typically go loose and crunchy but continue to turn.


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## axelbaker (Jun 17, 2011)

Mostly I like the idea minimal dis assembly for more frequent maintenance. When I go on an ugly ride I could at least squeeze some grease in and squish some of the contamination out. Perhaps a combination? Weep holes and a zerk?


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

axelbaker said:


> Mostly I like the idea minimal dis assembly for more frequent maintenance. When I go on an ugly ride I could at least squeeze some grease in and squish some of the contamination out. Perhaps a combination? Weep holes and a zerk?


If you're looking for minimal disassembly (as opposed to no disassembly) and are ok with making a minor investment then you should take a look at the King BB. They sell a grease gun adapter for their BB that requires removing the crank but nothing beyond that. I don't know what they do about water contamination though


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

axelbaker said:


> Mostly I like the idea minimal dis assembly for more frequent maintenance. When I go on an ugly ride I could at least squeeze some grease in and squish some of the contamination out. Perhaps a combination? Weep holes and a zerk?


Unfortunately that combination leads to drain holes blocked with purged grease.


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## estabro (Oct 9, 2009)

I wish I know you could take these apart a few years ago. Would have saved many $'s on BB replacements.


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## ProjectDan35 (Jul 19, 2010)

I just tried this to my Shimano EBB and I couldn't get the dust cap off. I eventually gave up because I felt I'd break it. the BB is fairly new though and it spun nice so it must have grease in there. Shimano BB's are cheap enough, even a Chris King is only $135.


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## rockafella (Nov 17, 2009)

Took the seals off my XTR BB super easy with an eyeglasses screw driver. The outer and inner seals popped right out. Gonna try pressing out the bearings next.


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## Mattlikestobike (Nov 1, 2010)

so glad i took the time to read this! 

I REALLY need to do this ASAP!


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## ProjectDan35 (Jul 19, 2010)

Today I was determined to get the dust caps off my Shimano External Bottom Bracket.

I succeeded in doing so. This BB is 6 months old, and I ride in New England.

The NON drive side looks BEAUTIFUL! Grease is so fresh. The drive side looked like it had a little less grease and it was a bit dirtier.

After reading about these BB's I was starting to think mine was toast, or it had no grease.

I may take the cups off and degrease them thoroughly and re-pack it with fresh Park Tool grease. My OCD is kicking in.

*Question. Can I mix greases? As in if I repack them without degreasing? Mixing my grease into the one that's already in there.*


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## stumblemumble (Mar 31, 2006)

ProjectDan35 said:


> Today I was determined to get the dust caps off my Shimano External Bottom Bracket.
> 
> I succeeded in doing so. This BB is 6 months old, and I ride in New England.
> 
> ...


Mix away, won't be harmful in the least.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

While it's possible to get greases to react, I don't know anyone who's done it.

Having said that, old grease is usually contaminated grease. It's best to wash it all out. Electrical aerosol cleaners and degreasers are great for hosing old grease out of bearings.


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## ronyc (Aug 27, 2008)

Sorry wrong area


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## work-ed (Nov 13, 2006)

Thanks for this tut, BB is running ultra smooth now. Also, here's another tut that works in combination, showing you how to pry the Shimano specific seals:
Mountain Bike Rides - Shimano Hollowtech II Bottom Bracket Bearing Replacement


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## work-ed (Nov 13, 2006)

*crunching while pedaling*

In case someone runs through this thread, the crunch sound/feeling was due to a worn chain-ring. Replaced it and all was well...


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

*anybody else...*

getting way less life out of the nondriveside outboard bearing than the right? i use XT & i've had to replace the left twice now w/ the right being fine. i grease both sides twice a year riding about 1200 mi. annually. any of you guys use ceramic & know what kind of mileage you've gotten out of 'em? have to be an awful lot for me to spend that kind of cash.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

nhodge said:


> getting way less life out of the nondriveside outboard bearing than the right? i use XT & i've had to replace the left twice now w/ the right being fine. i grease both sides twice a year riding about 1200 mi. annually. any of you guys use ceramic & know what kind of mileage you've gotten out of 'em? have to be an awful lot for me to spend that kind of cash.


Do you lay your bike down on the left side?

Ceramic bearings are designed to be low friction, as part of this they have light contact seals which aren't as good at keeping water out.


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

actually, i don't have ceramic bearings. i was just inquiring to see what peoples experience w/ them were to see if it was enough mileage to justify the cost difference. i store my bike upright.

thanks for the interest


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## slipfitting 2 (Jan 14, 2009)

You may have to have your bottom bracket faced. This is a process which mills the flats parallel. Outboard bottom brackets can wear prematurely if they are uneven. I have a hope ceramic bottom bracket I've been using for the past year and it's still pretty smooth. Don't buy one with the issues you have been experiencing.


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

possible, but i would hope highly unlikely since it's a Ventana. they face those surfaces before it goes out. i'll put a square on it & check though. thanks for the possible scenario. i wouldn't have thought of it.


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## mvi (Jan 15, 2004)

So what is the shimano road / MTB bearing seize?
I thought about buying 10 or so cheap off ebay and replace as needed.
Campagnolo seems even easier .


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

mvi said:


> So what is the shimano road / MTB bearing seize?
> I thought about buying 10 or so cheap off ebay and replace as needed.
> Campagnolo seems even easier .


6805N. They are non standard being 1mm narrower than usual and are only sealed one side as a result.
They are available, but not common and not cheap either. Enduro make a ceramic hybrid 6805N which is sealed both sides and rebuildable (removable nylon cage), but they are low friction seals which aren't going to help if you are getting water in currently.


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## quaman26 (Jan 29, 2009)

I tried greasing my BB bearings and upon removal of the dust cap, there is another plastic retainer ring that is covering the balls. I was able to take it off and got to the balls but now I can't get that plastic retainer back on. I kept trying but the plastic ring eventually broke. So aside from replacing the bearing itself, is there any option or place to get a plastic retainer ring that is easier to put on ?


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

quaman26 said:


> I tried greasing my BB bearings and upon removal of the dust cap, there is another plastic retainer ring that is covering the balls. I was able to take it off and got to the balls but now I can't get that plastic retainer back on. I kept trying but the plastic ring eventually broke. So aside from replacing the bearing itself, is there any option or place to get a plastic retainer ring that is easier to put on ?


That is the bearing cage you have removed. The chances of you finding a suitable replacement for it are not good.


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## Skid Solo (Feb 14, 2004)

Hi I have been using Enduro bearings for a while now on my bikes with XT cups, but I seem to be developing a problem. The outer seals don’t seem to fit anymore they sit proud of the bearing cup and thus dirt can get in. I have tried both sizes of the seal, but its almost as if the bearing are very slightly thicker now or are not sitting as low in the cup and thus the seals sit proud. (by proud I mean that the seal sits outside of the cup and if the bearing pressed further into the cup the seal would sit snugly into the cup out edges, hope that makes senses)
I therefore seem to be getting through bearing a lot quicker than when I 1st started using Enduro bearings, anybody getting a similar experience ?


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I acquired one of these as swag from the FSA rep at the Park Tech Summit in Atlanta a few weeks ago:
MegaExo Bearing Installation Tool










worth it's weight in gold! if you have ceramic bearings, you can pop the whole thing apart, disassemble the bearing down to the races and individual balls, clean, lube, and reassemble everything, and have a good-as-new BB without replacing the bearings. ceramic bearings are tough as hell, so it's worth rebuilding them. I will do a full service on my Black Box BB soon and post photos of the process.


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## Restricted (Jun 11, 2011)

Performed this bearing service this morning. The drive side bearing was very rough and I was suprised at the amount of grease I was able to pack in. 

Super smooth now, thanks for the write up!


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## Bech (Mar 11, 2012)

Does this guide also work with Shimano?


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

Bech said:


> Does this guide also work with Shimano?


Read post 19


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## diveplane (Mar 26, 2012)

use to have one of these tools years ago only just recently got back into biking entry level bike.

bottom bracket extractor is a must tool for any serious biker does his own maintance.


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## Utilityman (Feb 19, 2011)

I have a 4 year old bb that needs this!!!
thanks OP


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## Jet 9 (Feb 10, 2012)

*What to lube with????*

Okay guys I have been building my own bikes for a little bit now!! I have a 10 & 12 year old that love to ride. I just built a new Jet 9 XX 2 X 10. My question is what is better to use on external BB and crank shaft grease, chain lube, or something else? I have a friend who builds bikes and swears by grease. I found this to attract and hold dirt in areas you don't want it. I have been using T-9 for my chains seems to work well. Is that good to spray a bit on the crank shaft and the seals of the BB? I'm looking for some tips and ideas!!! Thanks


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

Greasing the outside of the spindle will stop corrosion (if you currently have that problem) but that's all. Otherwise it just collects dust and dirt.


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## CharlieC (Oct 2, 2010)

Thanks to OP. Super easy tutorial to follow.


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## rpet (Jan 27, 2004)

mack_turtle said:


> I acquired one of these as swag from the FSA rep at the Park Tech Summit in Atlanta a few weeks ago:
> MegaExo Bearing Installation Tool
> 
> 
> ...


Is that the same tool (or a redesign) of the FS-12 shown here ?
Universal Cycles -- FSA MegaExo Other Tools

I like the price of $100 cheaper than the Enduro external bb bearing press!


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## longislandsailor (Jul 8, 2010)

Great thread. Thanks for the info.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

I did this as preventative maintenance on an SLX BB Hollowtech II. Prying off the outer black plastic cap was easy with a blunt tip flexible grapefruit sectioning knife. Get the tip under the outer edge and pry a little and more it around the outside a little and pry some more. Underneath is the black seal. Pry that from the inside edge. It pops out. I found good clean clear grease on the drive side. I added to that. The non-drive side had almost no grease. This has been used in dry conditions for 8 months. I can see why some XT owners are reporting non-drive side bearing failures. These models need to have the grease checked at installation.


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## hunter006 (Jan 20, 2012)

Mbayushi said:


> just did this, it was super easy.
> 
> When I opened up the cup, there was no grease in it, I'm really glad I did this now.


I just did this too; catching the bus to and from work while it's raining outside meant the bottom bracket was exposed to wind and water forced in at 60 mph, so I might as well have held a pressure washier to it.

We did exactly as the post shows, and now it's running right as rain. I originally specified to the bike shop to replace the bearings, but now I'm going to tell them to hold off on it.


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## abelsfc (Apr 30, 2010)

*change bearings without remove cups*

Has anyone tried to replace the bearings without remove cups from the frame? Is it possible? I saw the tutorial that another member posted and maybe Shimano cups offer resistance to do that, but who knows with others BB brands.
The case is that my frame threads are a bit damaged and I would like to avoid as much as I could to loose and tight again and again BB cups from there.


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## jesse101 (May 23, 2011)

great thread! this is something i did after my first season...especially when i saw the type of bearings that are installed..

I just removed my bottom bracket, removed seals, dumped in ultrasonic cleaner with some citrus cleaner, blew it out with my air compressor..and re-lubed, thing actually felt better than new. I just noticed if you dont re-lube your bearing soon enough, they do generate flat spots, which could cause them to seize..so maybe thats the reason why they suggest replacement? not sure but my XT Crank/bottom bracket has been damn near bullet proof and so easy to maintain..makes riding that much more enjoyable considering its less things to worry about.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

just did this with a bottom bracket that came with a beat up used crank set I got that has been sitting in my parts bin. IT's not a total WOW like it's brand new but it's better. I'll definately be doing this on all my other bb's from now on esp since none of them are more than a year old, good project to start the new year off with when i'm hungover tomorrow!


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## cep32 (Mar 16, 2011)

I've had the same BB71 bottom bracket in my 2011 Trance X2 since purchase new and mountain biked all year round no worries thanks to the original post.

A better way to remove the plastic dust cap I have found is to remove the crankset then insert a socket (from car socket set) that is the right size to slide snugly into the cap. Then skew the socket slightly and pull back towards yourself. The dust cap should just pop out undamaged.

I have done this every 3-6 months and the bearings are running just like new.


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## thegallery (Jul 27, 2005)

delete


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## streetNslime (Feb 18, 2013)

cep32 said:


> I've had the same BB71 bottom bracket in my 2011 Trance X2 since purchase new and mountain biked all year round no worries thanks to the original post.
> 
> A better way to remove the plastic dust cap I have found is to remove the crankset then insert a socket (from car socket set) that is the right size to slide snugly into the cap. Then skew the socket slightly and pull back towards yourself. The dust cap should just pop out undamaged.
> 
> I have done this every 3-6 months and the bearings are running just like new.


Using the socket worked for me. Using a spark-plug wrench socket to push against the plastic cover inside "sleeve", I was able to get the cover to pop out a tiny bit. Then, I used the shaft of a thin screwdriver on the cover face to help pry it up. This seemed to put less strain on the cover than using a screwdriver tip against the sleeve from the back side.

I did this on a "new" (end-of-year sale) 2012 moonlander. The bearings had an OK coating of white grease. I packed in red N tacky anti-seize grease. After assembling, when I was spinning the bearing, pink grease came out of both sides. Maybe I need thicker grease next time.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

streetNslime said:


> Using the socket worked for me. Using a spark-plug wrench socket to push against the plastic cover inside "sleeve", I was able to get the cover to pop out a tiny bit. Then, I used the shaft of a thin screwdriver on the cover face to help pry it up. This seemed to put less strain on the cover than using a screwdriver tip against the sleeve from the back side.
> 
> I did this on a "new" (end-of-year sale) 2012 moonlander. The bearings had an OK coating of white grease. I packed in red N tacky anti-seize grease. After assembling, when I was spinning the bearing, pink grease came out of both sides. Maybe I need thicker grease next time.


A pair of bread and butter knives work great to lever under each side and pop them out without damage.


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## MadVermonter (Mar 5, 2013)

Excellent thread. I was able to dissassemble my Raceface X-Type XC BB using procedures much like described above. I used an 1/2 Dr 18mm Craftsman socket inserted into the inside of the non-drive side and tapping against a 32mm impact socket to get the bearing moving. Then against a partly open shopvise to fully extract the rusted solid allegedly sealed bearing - and less than a year old! The drive side cap was a little more difficult because Raceface designed the cap with a ridge so that the 18mm socket would not properly engage on the bearing. I may have moved it a little but I was able to to sufficiently engage the inner bearing race with a M6x75mm toggle bolt expander I found in my DIY box and knock it out the rest of the way. The plastic caps are a little damaged but serviceable for their purpose. The bearings are rusty rubber seal type, which I am replacing with stainless 6805-2RS sealed bearings (25x37x7) and liberally greasing all surrounding areas with marine grease (calcium-sulphonate based).


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## sooner518 (Aug 1, 2007)

Is this guide applicable to a GXP bottom bracket (specifically removing the cover of the cartridge bearings. removing the outer dust cover is easy)? I just bought a new GXP bottom bracket to replace an old one and am wondering if I ought to try this on the old one. 

If I end up using the new one I already bought, should i open up the new bearings and pack with grease?


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

sooner518 said:


> Is this guide applicable to a GXP bottom bracket (specifically removing the cover of the cartridge bearings. removing the outer dust cover is easy)? I just bought a new GXP bottom bracket to replace an old one and am wondering if I ought to try this on the old one.
> 
> If I end up using the new one I already bought, should i open up the new bearings and pack with grease?


Yes you can flick the seal off the bearings in a GXP and re-grease them. But be careful with both grease type and amount.
Too much grease will make it much harder for the bearing to turn and can even pop the seals back out if you used too much grease for the temperature the bearing will run at.
If you get the wrong grease (unlikely, most are lithium based) it's possible to have a reaction between that and the original grease. Do not use any grease with solids in it (teflon or molybdenum) for a rolling bearing.

If an old bearing has started running rough, then it has internal damage already and new grease won't stop that.


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## sooner518 (Aug 1, 2007)

Dougal said:


> Yes you can flick the seal off the bearings in a GXP and re-grease them. But be careful with both grease type and amount.
> Too much grease will make it much harder for the bearing to turn and can even pop the seals back out if you used too much grease for the temperature the bearing will run at.
> If you get the wrong grease (unlikely, most are lithium based) it's possible to have a reaction between that and the original grease. Do not use any grease with solids in it (teflon or molybdenum) for a rolling bearing.
> 
> If an old bearing has started running rough, then it has internal damage already and new grease won't stop that.


thanks for the response. its a LITTLE crunchy feeling, even after cleaning it out and re-packing with grease, so I guess i ought to put the new one in there. do i need to open up the new one and pack it?


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

i've been going through XT nondrive side bearings about 4-1 compared to driveside. how 'bout anybody else?


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

nhodge said:


> i've been going through XT nondrive side bearings about 4-1 compared to driveside. how 'bout anybody else?


That's pretty standard. Most people lean their bike to the left, so any moisture ends up in that side.


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

it's really that simple, huh?

thanks


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

nhodge said:


> it's really that simple, huh?
> 
> thanks


As reliable as gravity.


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## disgustipated (Apr 29, 2006)

Just in case anyone F'd up their dust covers much like I almost did.

RaceFace X-Type BB Outer Race Seal Small Parts 100061276 at CambriaBike.com

My apologies if this has already been shared in this thread.


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## drog (Sep 18, 2005)

I just removed the bearings from a shimano and a race face external cup using the outside plates from a 9 speed chain. I then used an old seat post that clears the inner lip to knock the bearing out with a rubber hammer. Some washers are also handy because the chain links are easily bent. Then you can reinsert the old bearings or get new ones.


Andrew


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## mtbdl (Sep 19, 2008)

Just serviced my shimano sm-bb70 XT with this procedure. Using a 17mm socket worked great to pull the dust sleeve off. A 13/16 socket worked to press the right side bearing out. The left side has a lip on the inside so I couldn't press it out. Too bad cause that's the one that needed replacing. REI had a new bb for $33 so thet was the easier route than trying to get the left side out and find a replacement bearing.

Sent from my SIII using Tapatalk 2


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

i guess i should have posted here what i did recently on the Shimano forum. Universal is selling single cup bearings for $9. that's the route i went.


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## sixstroke (Sep 24, 2013)

What is everyone using to clean out their BB? Can I use brske cleaner or dust-off?

Same question applies to hubs. 

Thanks!


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

sixstroke said:


> What is everyone using to clean out their BB? Can I use brske cleaner or dust-off?
> 
> Same question applies to hubs.
> 
> Thanks!


They normally just wipe out clean with a paper towel and some rubbing.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

paddelmik said:


> Getting way less life out of the nondriveside outboard bearing than the right? i use XT & i've had to replace the left twice now w/ the right being fine. i grease both sides twice a year riding about 1200 mi. annually. any of you guys use ceramic & know what kind of mileage you've gotten out of 'em? have to be an awful lot for me to spend that kind of cash.


It's common to get less life from the non-drive bearing. It's as simple as most people lay their bike down on that side, so gravity shifts moisture that way.

Ceramics generally run looser seals to minimise rolling resistance. A good thing if you're trying to shave seconds. But it does make them higher maintenance.


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## SKFLOW (Jun 23, 2007)

*Drive Side Bearing Removal Tool (Shimano BB)*

After removing the plastic dust cover and outside lip seal, I used a left over cut piece of 1 1/8" steer tube to press out the drive side bearing from the inner side. Fits perfectly inside the M970 XTR bottom bracket.


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## gvelco (Jan 22, 2013)

is any chance to repair died bearing?(it looks rusty and brown)i put them on some oil and start rolling a bit (1/8 turn)
hollotech 2
reason>one ride in wet condition


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

gvelco said:


> is any chance to repair died bearing?(it looks rusty and brown)i put them on some oil and start rolling a bit (1/8 turn)
> hollotech 2
> reason>one ride in wet condition


You can get them turning again. But they are mortally wounded and will never work properly.


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## zink (Sep 14, 2011)

My FSA 19 mm MegaExo had completely seized after winter commuting and then letting it sit for 2 weeks over Christmas. I spun the cranks and they were a little stiff but I almost rode it with the crank spindle just spinning in the seized bearing. Thankfully I pulled the cranks to see what was up. I managed to free it with some WD-40 but the bearings are a little rough. Sneaky FSA uses a proprietary 19 mm ID bearing and the cheapest option I found was a new BB for $32 from eBay.


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

Dougal said:


> It's common to get less life from the non-drive bearing. It's as simple as most people lay their bike down on that side, so gravity shifts moisture that way.


i find that extremely suspect. but, i have no alternative explanation


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

zink said:


> My FSA 19 mm MegaExo had completely seized after winter commuting and then letting it sit for 2 weeks over Christmas. I spun the cranks and they were a little stiff but I almost rode it with the crank spindle just spinning in the seized bearing. Thankfully I pulled the cranks to see what was up. I managed to free it with some WD-40 but the bearings are a little rough. Sneaky FSA uses a proprietary 19 mm ID bearing and the cheapest option I found was a new BB for $32 from eBay.


19x37mm bearings are available. Common fitment is BMX Spanish BB's with 3/4" inch axle.



nhodge said:


> i find that extremely suspect. but, i have no alternative explanation


Gravity is extremely reliable.


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## anvil_den (Nov 6, 2007)

gvelco said:


> is any chance to repair died bearing?(it looks rusty and brown)i put them on some oil and start rolling a bit (1/8 turn)
> hollotech 2
> reason>one ride in wet condition


Salvaged a number of Shimano outboard bbs.. But the very first "gone" ones that was resurrected is still on one of my bike after 4 yrs (with periodic maintenance and repacking of grease of course)

Dunked the cups with bearings in a bowl of Singer oil (or engine oil if u prefer) left them there for a week. Take out keep spinning and dip it back in the oil to wash out grit till u can feel it is smooth, drip dry, wipe and repack... have to say it is still one of my smoothest bb. I guess as long as the balls are not too badly deformed or pitted.. with most of the rust removed it should always work well enough.

All new bb (at least for shimano) needs to be repacked before installed if you don't want them crapping out on you fast. I digress.. same goes for checking oil level in all brand new Rock shox forks...


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## pcmark (Jul 10, 2010)

I did an Enduro bearing upgrade in a MegaExo bottom bracket, and it's a VERY snug fit to get the axle through the ID of the bearing. Did I get the wrong bearings? I ordered these: ANGULAR CONTACTENDURO BEARING KIT FOR BOTTOM BRACKETS
I understand that the old bearings had a 25mm ID and snapped into a plastic cage that reduced down to 24mm, and the new bearings have a 24mm ID and do not use the plastic retainer. I had to give the crank a whck with my palm to get it started since gently wiggling it didn't seem to do anything. I didn't want to force anything, so I have not re-installed the crank yet. I don't see any burrs or anything on the crank axle that would prevent it going on. Anyone have this issue?


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

pcmark said:


> I did an Enduro bearing upgrade in a MegaExo bottom bracket, and it's a VERY snug fit to get the axle through the ID of the bearing. Did I get the wrong bearings? I ordered these: ANGULAR CONTACTENDURO BEARING KIT FOR BOTTOM BRACKETS
> I understand that the old bearings had a 25mm ID and snapped into a plastic cage that reduced down to 24mm, and the new bearings have a 24mm ID and do not use the plastic retainer. I had to give the crank a whck with my palm to get it started since gently wiggling it didn't seem to do anything. I didn't want to force anything, so I have not re-installed the crank yet. I don't see any burrs or anything on the crank axle that would prevent it going on. Anyone have this issue?


The FSA axles are oversize. For that reason I don't list the Enduro (or any other 24mm ID bearing) as being compatible with FSA. I either replace the FSA bearings (some use 6805, some 6805N, some aren't possible as the cap is keyed into the bearing) or sell customers a new bottom bracket which uses replacable 6805 bearings and plastic caps.

The caps allow enough give to fit the over-size FSA axle through without issues.


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## pcmark (Jul 10, 2010)

Thanks for the reply. I guess I'll hang onto these as I'm sure to get a Shimano BB at some point in the future.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

goldencalf said:


> Just in case anyone F'd up their dust covers much like I almost did.
> 
> RaceFace X-Type BB Outer Race Seal Small Parts 100061276 at CambriaBike.com
> 
> My apologies if this has already been shared in this thread.


Do these exist for the Shimano bearings?

My XTR bb is making noise and last time I tried this on my GXP BB I ruined those dust covers. I don't want to touch the XTRs until I know I can replace all the parts.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

PHeller said:


> Do these exist for the Shimano bearings?
> 
> My XTR bb is making noise and last time I tried this on my GXP BB I ruined those dust covers. I don't want to touch the XTRs until I know I can replace all the parts.


Not that I've seen. There are Monocrome replacements which take 6805 bearings. But it's better to recycle the shimano BB and get one for which spares are available.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

And...which cups have bearings available aftermarket? 

It's a shame that the OP of this thread didn't really maintain it.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Bump, which external/outboard bearings are easily replaceable and have a cheap initial purchase?


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## alphajaguars (Jan 12, 2004)

Just used this thread to service my X type BB.

Not a lick of grease in there! 😁

Cracked one of the plastic seals trying to get it back in there, but not bad enough to keep it from working (I hope).

I think I will be getting the enduroseals repalcement bearings and getting away from those plastic seals altogether.

Which ones to get - the standard ones, or the angular contact?


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## MTBeing (Jan 11, 2012)

Just did my 2015 XT BB 73mm tonight and it was really straightforward. I did remove the cups which is stupid-easy with a Park BBT-9. After the cups were out I removed the outer dust cap using a precision screwdriver, working it from the outside lip and gently prying my way around. Once those were out I woked the bearing seal cover from the inside out using the same precision screwdriver and it popped right out. No damage whatsoever. 

I repacked the bearings with Phil Wood Waterproof Grease and reinstalled them. The whole process took an hour just because it was my first time. Such an easy maintenance procedure.


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

I hope I'm writing in the correct thread. I removed a square tapered bottom bracket. I'm going install an external bottom bracket. The old BB was rusty. There are traces of rust stain inside the bike's threaded BB (cage?) frame section. The bicycle frame is aluminium. I've cleaned it thoroughly with citrus degreaser and Simple Green with a clean toothbrush, but the traces still persist. Should I make every effort to remove the rust stain traces or should I not be concerned with it?

Thanks!


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

escapedturkey said:


> I hope I'm writing in the correct thread. I removed a square tapered bottom bracket. I'm going install an external bottom bracket. The old BB was rusty. There are traces of rust stain inside the bike's threaded BB (cage?) frame section. The bicycle frame is aluminium. I've cleaned it thoroughly with citrus degreaser and Simple Green with a clean toothbrush, but the traces still persist. Should I make every effort to remove the rust stain traces or should I not be concerned with it?
> 
> Thanks!


Just clean as best you can and lightly oil/grease to prevent furthur rusting.


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## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

Thank you for the advice.

RaceFace X-type BB instructions list chasing/ facing tool as required. It costs $320.00! Is it really necessary? I need to use spacers on both sides for 68mm.

http://www.raceface.com/media/XTYPE.BB.DH.XC.AM.web.pdf

Thanks!


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## Minos Gzz (May 8, 2015)

This post is great, I just did maintenance, cleaning and regressing on my 190mm raceface Crank. Second time in bike life, almost every year and bearings in good shape, no rust and just a little grease from last year


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

Minos Gzz said:


> This post is great, I just did maintenance, cleaning and regressing on my 190mm raceface Crank. Second time in bike life, almost every year and bearings in good shape, no rust and just a little grease from last year


Wait... RF has a 190mm crank? What is it called? I want one! Thanks
--sParty


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