# Replacing drivetrain - unsure of parts to buy



## TheAtomicGoose (Sep 20, 2013)

Hi All,

I recently found out that I need to replace my drivetrain, as it's old (I bought the bike used) and wasn't maintained properly, and I also didn't maintain it properly since I'm fairly new to bike maintenance and didn't know what I should have been doing to keep it in good shape.

I was planning on replacing the cassette, chain, BB, and crankset, without replacing derailleurs. I'm also planning on using the SRAM x5 line of components. However, my bike is currently set up with x9 parts in a 9-speed configuration. Will I need to buy new derailleurs to accomodate a 2x in the front and a 10-speed cassette (this one: https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/pg-1030-cassette)? I'd prefer not to, for cost reasons, and also because I've never set up a derailleur and they seem far more complicated than the other things I was planning on doing.

Also, I can't tell from looking at my current BB what kind I need to buy. I don't see anything on it saying BB30 or GXP, which were what I expected to see, so how do I tell what I should get for a replacement?

Lastly, can i salvage my cranks while replacing the gears attached to them?

Thanks!


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

You'll get a better deal by buying a crankset that includes a bottom bracket vs. buying chainrings and bottom bracket separately. I don't know about Sram but you can get a Deore with bb for around $70. I think. You'll need a new rear derailleur and shift levers for sure if you want to go 10 speed..


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## TheAtomicGoose (Sep 20, 2013)

Is there any significant disadvantage to sticking with 9 speed, and if I did stay with it, could I keep my derailleurs? The only reason I was thinking of that cassette is because it was the one that was grouped in with the x5 components on SRAM's website.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

The only significant disadvantage to sticking with 9-speed is the lack of component choices available, otherwise it would be cheaper and just fine to stick with what you have. I'd still recommend replacing the crank/bb together, 10-speed ones are more widely available, usually less expensive and will work with your 9-speed drivetrain.


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## TheAtomicGoose (Sep 20, 2013)

Ok, I'll look for them as a pair. How should I figure out which type of bottom bracket I need? Thanks!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

X9 to X5? Why? What exactly is wrong with the stuff that you have on there now?


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## TheAtomicGoose (Sep 20, 2013)

It's old and has been severely neglected...The chain is very stretched out, and widened the cassette and the crankset badly. I can't afford to replace the X9 parts with more X9 parts; they came with the bike, and I've been told that I probably won't be able to tell the difference anyway. Just for comparison, the X5 crankset costs $130 new, while the X9 costs $250.


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## goodmojo (Sep 12, 2011)

buy from the euro sites they are much less pricey.

For example you can buy an entire shimano SLX groupset for $265

Shimano SLX M670 Transmission Groupset | Groupsets | Merlin Cycles

XT for 379

Shimano XT Triple Transmission Groupset | Groupsets | Merlin Cycles

This XT group set comes with shimano XT brakes for about $400

Shimano XT M780 Disc Brake Groupset Sale | Groupsets | Merlin Cycles

I believe XT is equivalent to x9


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I would probably just buy a new 9 speed cassette and chain. Are you 100% that the chainrings on the crank are hosed? Chainrings aren't that expensive. But I do tend to agree with the poster above....a complete SLX drivetrain for under 300 may be the best way to go.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## 779334 (Oct 10, 2014)

If you're fairly new, it may be better to have the LBS chose the right parts for you. Do you feel good about buying parts that would fit the bike?


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## TheAtomicGoose (Sep 20, 2013)

I'm not totally sure the chainrings are hosed, but that's what my LBS said. I don't feel super good about buying parts that'll work, but I don't know how I'll ever learn if I don't try it. 

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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I would try replacing the chain and cassette first, and then maybe the chainring. Don't replace the derailleur unless absolutely needed. And there is a difference between X5 and X9.


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## TheAtomicGoose (Sep 20, 2013)

I'm sure there is, but is it a difference that a beginner could notice? 

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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

TheAtomicGoose said:


> I'm not totally sure the chainrings are hosed, but that's what my LBS said. I don't feel super good about buying parts that'll work, but I don't know how I'll ever learn if I don't try it.


Post a close-up or larger pic of your chainrings and same with the cassette.


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

eb1888 said:


> Post a close-up or larger pic of your chainrings and same with the cassette.


And a clear photo of the BB and give us the bike make, model and year (or a close guess on the year).


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

AshevilleMtBiker said:


> If you're fairly new, it may be better to have the LBS chose the right parts for you. Do you feel good about buying parts that would fit the bike?


This - may be the way to go if you are unsure. Do you have the tools to deal with all of this?


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

TheAtomicGoose said:


> I'm sure there is, but is it a difference that a beginner could notice?
> 
> Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


Maybe not now, but down the road, there is a huge difference. I remember when a coworker picked up a mountain bike and had me test ride it for her to just to see if it was set up correctly. I had been riding on X7 shifters and X9 derailleurs for a while at this point. I got on that bike, shifted and there was a huge difference. Her bike? X5. I was fairly surprised to be honest. I didn't think it would be that noticeable.


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## TheAtomicGoose (Sep 20, 2013)

TenSpeed said:


> Maybe not now, but down the road, there is a huge difference. I remember when a coworker picked up a mountain bike and had me test ride it for her to just to see if it was set up correctly. I had been riding on X7 shifters and X9 derailleurs for a while at this point. I got on that bike, shifted and there was a huge difference. Her bike? X5. I was fairly surprised to be honest. I didn't think it would be that noticeable.


Huh, that's interesting to know. Maybe I should go for X9.

Here are the pics, if they're not what are wanted I can redo them, but I want sure exactly what to take. The bike is a Sette Reddik. I think it's 2001, but I bought it from its second owner so I'm not sure.


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## TheAtomicGoose (Sep 20, 2013)

Also, sorry for the long response time, I was without Internet.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

I would put a new chain on only at this point. I would disassemble the bb to clean and grease it also. Ignore any "Do not" signs. You don't have to take it off the frame. You do have to take the crankset off.


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## TheAtomicGoose (Sep 20, 2013)

So it doesn't look like the chainrings and cassette are messed up enough to mess with any new chain that I put on? Also, what makes you think I don't need a new BB? I'm not saying you're wrong, I just don't know what I'm talking about and I'm curious how you can tell.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Chain and cassette - why not. They don't cost that much. Wait on the chainrings to see if yo have skipping/grinding.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

TheAtomicGoose said:


> So it doesn't look like the chainrings and cassette are messed up enough to mess with any new chain that I put on? Also, what makes you think I don't need a new BB? I'm not saying you're wrong, I just don't know what I'm talking about and I'm curious how you can tell.


My experience is that a bb can more often than not be cleaned with Liquid Wrench or another penetrating oil until each bearing spins freely again. Then load it up with wheel bearing grease. Put the seals and covers back on and go. You can do this indefinitely. The manufacturers prefer you replace them.


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## TheAtomicGoose (Sep 20, 2013)

Ok, sounds good.

My plan is to get this chain, but I'm not sure which cassette to get. Is there any significant difference between the different 9 speed cassettes on SRAM's website?


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I like KMC chains:

Amazon.com : KMC X9.93 Bicycle Chain (9-Speed, 1/2 x 11/128-Inch, 116L, Silver/Black) : Bike Chains : Sports & Outdoors

For the cassette, the more money you spend the lighter they get. The 950 looks to be their base-model..looks good to me. So chain and cassette you are in for around $50 on amazon. Do it.

http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Bicycle-...4646282&sr=8-1&keywords=sram+9+speed+cassette


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## BushwackerinPA (Aug 10, 2006)

J.B. Weld said:


> The only significant disadvantage to sticking with 9-speed is the lack of component choices available, otherwise it would be cheaper and just fine to stick with what you have. I'd still recommend replacing the crank/bb together, 10-speed ones are more widely available, usually less expensive and will work with your 9-speed drivetrain.


and lack of clutched rear derailleurs....


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## TheAtomicGoose (Sep 20, 2013)

TiGeo said:


> I like KMC chains:
> 
> Amazon.com : KMC X9.93 Bicycle Chain (9-Speed, 1/2 x 11/128-Inch, 116L, Silver/Black) : Bike Chains : Sports & Outdoors


Does that chain have a QuickLink or a similar kind of thing? I saw both that it did and that it didn't in the reviews.



TiGeo said:


> For the cassette, the more money you spend the lighter they get. The 950 looks to be their base-model..looks good to me. So chain and cassette you are in for around $50 on amazon. Do it.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Bicycle-...4646282&sr=8-1&keywords=sram+9+speed+cassette


Will the different numbers of teeth change which chain works with the cassette? I'm assuming I want the 11-34T for the largest range of gears, but I'm not sure.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

TheAtomicGoose said:


> Does that chain have a QuickLink or a similar kind of thing? I saw both that it did and that it didn't in the reviews.
> 
> Will the different numbers of teeth change which chain works with the cassette? I'm assuming I want the 11-34T for the largest range of gears, but I'm not sure.


Yes, KMC chains come with their Missing Link which is better than SRAM as its reusable. On the cassette, as long as its 9-speed, it will work and you are correct, 11-34 would give the biggest range (I missed the 9-speed era (7, 8, then 10 for me) so I am not sure what the largest range 9-speed cassette is but I *think* that's it.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I would replace chain and cassette, for sure. Cartridge bottom brackets like that aren't that expensive. I don't bother servicing them usually. However it is possible to replace the cartridge bearings and keep the cups, I wouldn't suggest that (or pulling off the seals and cleaning/regreasing the bearings) to a beginner. If you want to play with learning some of that stuff, just replace the BB with a new one, and keep the old one so you can mess with it and it's not a big deal if you mess it up with experimenting.

The cranks you have on that bike are nice. Don't replace them. The chainrings look okay. The middle ring is usually used more and wears the fastest. Usually you can get away with JUST replacing it and not bothering with the rest, unless the bike has been totally trashed. And this one may have been ridden hard before you got it, but it doesn't look totally trashed from what you've shown us. Don't worry about the chainrings unless you have problems after replacing the chain and cassette.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

TiGeo said:


> Yes, KMC chains come with their Missing Link which is better than SRAM as its reusable. On the cassette, as long as its 9-speed, it will work and you are correct, 11-34 would give the biggest range (I missed the 9-speed era (7, 8, then 10 for me) so I am not sure what the largest range 9-speed cassette is but I *think* that's it.


Used to be 11-34, but 11-36 9speed cassettes can be found now.

http://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-9-Speed-Nickel-Cassette-Lockring/dp/B00D9NCXJQ


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## TheAtomicGoose (Sep 20, 2013)

Harold said:


> I would replace chain and cassette, for sure. Cartridge bottom brackets like that aren't that expensive. I don't bother servicing them usually. However it is possible to replace the cartridge bearings and keep the cups, I wouldn't suggest that (or pulling off the seals and cleaning/regreasing the bearings) to a beginner. If you want to play with learning some of that stuff, just replace the BB with a new one, and keep the old one so you can mess with it and it's not a big deal if you mess it up with experimenting.


Ok, in that case, what BB should I get? I can't tell from looking at it what type it is, since I don't know what to look for.



Harold said:


> The cranks you have on that bike are nice. Don't replace them. The chainrings look okay. The middle ring is usually used more and wears the fastest. Usually you can get away with JUST replacing it and not bothering with the rest, unless the bike has been totally trashed. And this one may have been ridden hard before you got it, but it doesn't look totally trashed from what you've shown us. Don't worry about the chainrings unless you have problems after replacing the chain and cassette.


So it's possible to only replace a single chainring without replacing the others? Does it need to be exactly the same size as the old one?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

TheAtomicGoose said:


> Ok, in that case, what BB should I get? I can't tell from looking at it what type it is, since I don't know what to look for.
> 
> So it's possible to only replace a single chainring without replacing the others? Does it need to be exactly the same size as the old one?


BB looks like a Shimano. A few things you want to look for: It's obviously threaded. BSA means threaded cups. Race Face X-Type cranks use 24mm spindles. So do Shimano cranks. That means you can use RaceFace X-Type bottom brackets or Shimano bottom brackets. You need to know the bottom bracket shell width. Most mtb's use 68/73mm bb shell. Many downhill bikes use 83mm shell. Fatbikes have wider shells (a couple widths). Pressfit bottom bracket shells are all over the place and depend on the type of pressfit bb they're supposed to use. Yours will be either 68mm or 73mm. You can measure it. Or if you can find frame specs somewhere like Bikepedia, it might tell you. 68/73mm bb shells use the same bb. Only difference will be any spacers that might be between the frame and the cups. Most mtb's are 73mm.

Yes, you can replace chainrings individually on your crankset (not all are the same). To get the middle ring off, you'll probably have to take the small chainring off first, though. Which means you'll have to take the whole crankset off the bike. Not a big deal, but it does mean you have to have the right size allen wrenches as well as be comfortable with it. And make sure if any spacers come off, you put them back on the same way. You don't HAVE to use exactly the same size chainrings. However, with a triple crankset, if you want to change chainring sizes, you want to change ALL of them, because they work as a group. If you change the size of only the middle ring, you're going to have uneven spacing between rings, and that can affect shift quality. The bigger the gap between rings, the lower quality the shift will be. The smaller the gap, the faster and more precise it will be.

If you buy a replacement chainring, make sure you buy one that's made for a triple crankset, and not one made for a 2x or a 1x drivetrain. Install a 1x chainring on a triple in the middle position, and you'll get REALLY poor shifting. 1x chainrings aren't meant to shift at all.


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## TheAtomicGoose (Sep 20, 2013)

Harold said:


> BB looks like a Shimano. A few things you want to look for: It's obviously threaded. BSA means threaded cups. Race Face X-Type cranks use 24mm spindles. So do Shimano cranks. That means you can use RaceFace X-Type bottom brackets or Shimano bottom brackets. You need to know the bottom bracket shell width. Most mtb's use 68/73mm bb shell. Many downhill bikes use 83mm shell. Fatbikes have wider shells (a couple widths). Pressfit bottom bracket shells are all over the place and depend on the type of pressfit bb they're supposed to use. Yours will be either 68mm or 73mm. You can measure it. Or if you can find frame specs somewhere like Bikepedia, it might tell you. 68/73mm bb shells use the same bb. Only difference will be any spacers that might be between the frame and the cups. Most mtb's are 73mm.


Will I have to buy the spacers separately?

Also, from what you said, it looks like this BB and this BB will both work, but I'd like to confirm since I wasn't able to find anything about spindle size.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

IMHO, anytime you start having lots of BB questions....its time to go to a shop. Ask lots of questions and next time you should be good on your own.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

TheAtomicGoose said:


> Will I have to buy the spacers separately?
> 
> Also, from what you said, it looks like this BB and this BB will both work, but I'd like to confirm since I wasn't able to find anything about spindle size.


By definition, Shimano and RaceFace X-Type (and some others) have 24mm spindles. Other standards include 30mm spindles and SRAM GXP (24mm DS and 22mm NDS).



TiGeo said:


> IMHO, anytime you start having lots of BB questions....its time to go to a shop. Ask lots of questions and next time you should be good on your own.


This is truth. There are a lot of specifications out there depending on what you have and what you want to install on it. Having difficulty wrapping your head around a standard BSA BB with 24mm spindle? Seek a pro. Ask questions. Learn. Then next time, you are armed with information and can do.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

It used to be so easy...all BBs were threaded. The only choices were 68 vs. 73mm shell, english vs. Italian threaded, and spindle length. All you needed was a crank puller, a BB tool, and a pair of calipers. So many different BBs now its just not worth the hassle of not knowing what you need and ordering the wrong stuff. The shop prices aren't that much higher to justify saving a few bucks going online.


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

TheAtomicGoose said:


> Will I have to buy the spacers separately?
> 
> Also, from what you said, it looks like this BB and this BB will both work, but I'd like to confirm since I wasn't able to find anything about spindle size.


As Harold said, Shimano and Race Face use 24mm spindles, so they make bottom brackets to fit. Do you even need one? If you slide the chain to rest on the frame and spin the crank, is it smooth with no grinding sound/feel? No play side to side? If it feels good, I really wouldn't mess with it. Maybe in the winter if you get antsy. 

If it's rough or there's lots of play, might be time to learn. If you don't have it, you'll need a tool to remove/install it. I have something like this. And if choosing between the two you linked, personally, I'd go with the Shimano. You're not going to see any increased value/performance going with the Race Face from my experience. Plenty of vids on youtube showing exactly how to do it. :thumbsup:

I don't know the interface on that particular crankset. It might be self-extracting (uses an allen wrench to remove - easy) or you may need a specific tool to take it off. My 10 speed Evolve uses an ISIS puller. Anyone know?

Also, if your bike is as neglected as you say it probably needs new cables/housings anyway. That'll likely give shift performance a big boost if they're sticking or frayed. Brakes, too, if they use cables. I'd strongly suggest a cable cutter to get straight, clean ends on everything. Something like this, but there are lots of brands. Unfortunately, that means learning to adjust shifting. Luckily there are tons of vids for that, too.


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## TheAtomicGoose (Sep 20, 2013)

There is a lot of side to side movement, so I definitely need a new one. 

From looking at my crankset, it seems like it just requires an Allen wrench. 

I don't think I'm going to do my cables at the moment but I probably will at some point in the next few months.


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## TheAtomicGoose (Sep 20, 2013)

I'm trying to remove my cranks, but I can't quite figure out how. I've been able to take off the drive side one, but I don't know how to remove the other one. I have a ISIS crank puller, but it's too big for the threads. Any suggestions?

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## doodah_man (Sep 23, 2017)

I too have my own question regarding parts replacement. I have a 2013 Cannondale Trail 5 29er as can be viewed in my profile. It comes stock with a Shimano ES-25 Octalink bottom bracket. I would like to do a serious upgrade to the new SRAM GX Eagle groupset. I don't mind at all and will probably be required to change my bottom bracket anyway. I need to know what all parts I will need to do this upgrade. Those who are familiar with all of this stuff, being a relative newbie, I don't quite know what to look for. I will have to try and check my bike to determine which crank length I'd need. And for those kind enough to try and help me, I don't need a brand on the bottom bracket, just the type and the specs of such bracket in order to buy an appropriate new one.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

doodah_man said:


> I too have my own question regarding parts replacement. I have a 2013 Cannondale Trail 5 29er as can be viewed in my profile. It comes stock with a Shimano ES-25 Octalink bottom bracket. I would like to do a serious upgrade to the new SRAM GX Eagle groupset. I don't mind at all and will probably be required to change my bottom bracket anyway. I need to know what all parts I will need to do this upgrade. Those who are familiar with all of this stuff, being a relative newbie, I don't quite know what to look for. I will have to try and check my bike to determine which crank length I'd need. And for those kind enough to try and help me, I don't need a brand on the bottom bracket, just the type and the specs of such bracket in order to buy an appropriate new one.


Why are you trying to slap Eagle on that bike? That drivetrain is going to cost more than the whole bike, for one. Second, it's not going to make the bike ride better. It'll shift better, probably, assuming you get it set up right. But based on your question here, I have my doubts about that. You'll still have a crappy fork. You'll still have cheap wheels. You'll still have a basic, heavy frame with crappy geometry. Those things won't change.


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## doodah_man (Sep 23, 2017)

Thanks. I will eventually over time be replacing every single component on this bike. Cost is a factor of course, but I can do this. The bike itself was in the $700's, so the cost of the SRAM kit is less. May be more by the time it is installed. But at $495, that's not bad. Eventually, I will replace wheelset, tires, brakes, yes fork too. Everything that has yet to be replaced. I can't replace the geometry. But I'm not buying a $3 to $6,000 bike to commute and occasionally ride off-road. I don't have that kind of throwaway money. I'm simply looking for help to accomplish this task, not opinions.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

doodah_man said:


> not opinions.


you're going to get them.

if this bike is for commuting and occasional trail riding, GX Eagle is pointless.

You cannot put the Eagle GX cassette on your wheels. You cannot. No 12spd cassette will work on it. So that means you'd have to buy a new rear wheel NOW so you can have the xD driver freehub body required for the Eagle cassette. You're talking about throwing stupid money into a lame frame. Just buy a new bike. Honestly.


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## doodah_man (Sep 23, 2017)

I probably joined the wrong forum on the wrong website. I don't need to be humored, but I don't need to be talked at like I am a lunatic either. I'm sure there are a lot of people on here who have what they can afford and those who enjoy their bike, their way. It would be pretty simple to tell me what will work and what won't work and how and why, without constantly telling me I am more or less insane to even want to make my bike better. It may be that I cannot do some of the things I'd like, to this bike. But I already plan to put on a different wheelset, so that' alone is not a problem. I had asked someone who knew, what parts I'd need and what specs etc to look for. I probably wouldn't attempt to do this work myself, but would probably take the bike to a bike shop to have it installed. I'd rather do that, than to have to wait while they order the parts, wait for them to arrive, wait for the shop who no doubt will push my bike job to the back and persuade them to get back on it. It would just be easier and more efficient to walk in with all the parts in hand and pay to have them installed. And I learned a long time ago, you can put any part on anything if you have enough money. So I like this bike. I wanted a Cannondale for a really long time and finally got one a few years ago. Now, I'd like that same bike to be better at everything. I don't need to buy a very expensive bike or to have my parents do it. I'm already pretty old now. My parents have passed away. This is my bike, bought through my own labor and I simply want to improve it, Not replace it. If anyone really wants to help with some actual help, please feel free. Otherwise I'll be out of your hair in a few days time.


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## doodah_man (Sep 23, 2017)

Also, I didn't suggest that when I do hit the trail that I just simply poke along. But it is a cross country bike frame and it does duty where I see fit to ride it.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

doodah_man said:


> to have my parents do it. I'm already pretty old now.


this is a dead ringer for "I only just started growing pubes".

All I'm saying is ride that bike for what it is. You're dumping a pile of money into it, which IS throwaway money. Sure, you can do it if you want. But is that a smart choice? Vast majority here are going to debate that assessment.

You can put a wide range 1x drivetrain on it for a LOT less money and hassle than just buying a full GX Eagle group. The money pit you are creating by upgrading every part on this mediocre bike isn't doing you any favors. You say you don't have the kind of throwaway money to just buy a better bike, but then you're looking to put GX Eagle onto a bike you commute on? I sure hope you don't ever lock it up outside because you're going to trash your brand new flashy drivetrain in short order. And have you thought much about how flashy components turn a commuter bike into a target for thieves? I'm guessing those aren't lessons you've learned yet.

You'd be better off keeping this bike with cheaper components on it for a commuter/urban bike and getting something that's all-around better for mtb-specific riding. There's a lot of great stuff in the $1500 range right now. Complete with 1x drivetrains and other modern touches. When it comes down to it, you're probably going to wind up spending pretty close to that on your bottomless pit upgrade project. That Cannondale frame is NOTHING SPECIAL.


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## Dexter-01 (Sep 30, 2016)

Sorry doodah but I have to agree with the other posters here. However if you're set on upgrading that bike to Eagle it's possible. You just need the entire groupset (cranks with chainring, cassette derailleur, chain and shifters), the appropriate bottom bracket for your frame (your LBS can check for you if you're not sure which one) and a rear wheel with an XD driver. 
Now if spending $1100 on a $700 bike (~500 for eagle and ~600 for a decent wheel set) makes sense to you go to your bike shop and order it up. 
Now for another unsolicited opinion. You mention wanting to further upgrade that bike, so figuring $800 for a good fork, $300 for brakes and rotors, $200 for tires and another $300 for a nice cockpit, you will have spent $3400 on a bike with an entry level frame. And no dropper post. That you want to commute on.


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## doodah_man (Sep 23, 2017)

I'm not going to start a fight with anyone on any website.. That's quite futile. Born in December 1960. My pubes are quite grayish by now, thank you for the concern.


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## doodah_man (Sep 23, 2017)

I'll just move elsewhere. Not because I didn't get the support I hoped. But because I had hoped for an actual here's what will fit and won't and possibly how to do it. Not a bunch of outside observations of how I go about things. I have a vague idea about what's available in the mountain bike market right now. I do follow such things. But I don't want to go out and buy another one. So ya'll go on with whatever you do on here. I'll just move somewhere where people actually interact and try and help other people reach their objectives.


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## Dexter-01 (Sep 30, 2016)

So I gave you a list of the parts you'll need, aong with the advice to have your shop double check which bottom bracket you'll need (I believe a Bsa threaded one will work but I would stil have it checked) and that's not what you were looking for?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Dexter-01 said:


> So I gave you a list of the parts you'll need, aong with the advice to have your shop double check which bottom bracket you'll need (I believe a Bsa threaded one will work but I would stil have it checked) and that's not what you were looking for?


Nah, he wanted to piggyback on an old thread (instead of starting his own) and get a part number by part number list (complete with links to online sources for said parts) of exactly each part that's going to make everything work.

Meh. Waste of effort. If OP can read, he can figure it out himself. The information is all out there.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

@Harold - You've given a lot of good advice here, but I think you were pretty harsh, at least in terms of the approach. Sure, we get some trolling from time to time, and doodah's scenario is a bit bonkers, but you were pretty aggressive especially in the Beginner context. That said, I agree with the core of what you've passed along.

@doodah - If you're still around, the advice by a couple here is actually sound, albeit cutting. To be honest, I'd recommend the reverse approach: start with a great frame and build from there. You don't need to buy top-end everything at once, but at least you've got a good starting point.

Your existing frame isn't horrible, but it isn't worthy of the spend you're proposing.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

phlegm said:


> @Harold - You've given a lot of good advice here, but I think you were pretty harsh, at least in terms of the approach.


I started out straightforward enough. Maybe I did get too harsh in the end, but I have lost tolerance for people who get overly defensive when the forum advice is contrary to their plans.

It happens far too often. When someone tells you NOT to spend money, there is usually good reason for it.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

I'm with phlegm, dude asks a question and right out of the gun he's harassed about what a crap bike he has. doodah_man never got one bit of actual help.


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