# Stuck Maxle Stealth



## craign (Feb 8, 2006)

Looking for ideas on how to remove a stuck maxle stealth. I've tried penetrating oil. The hex insert rounded off before it budged. A screw extractor went into the hex insert okay, but snapped on me, managed to get the piece out.

Any other ideas how to tackle this?

I could try a straight flute screw extractor on the disc side of the axle if I can get one sufficiently large enough diameter to go inside the axle. I expect it might allow more force to be applied than the smaller screw extractor I tried.

Is the threaded insert in a 2017 pike replaceable? If so then this could be tackled from the disc side by sacrificing the insert. I can't see it listed as a part though, so suspect not.

Other thoughts if we are going to get destructive is to try and carefully cut the end caps and axle (hub should be okay if this is possible). Unfortunately they are very thick torque cap end caps.

Going to take it to a local suspension mechanic later this week to get an opinion.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Good luck with getting this out. Have any photos that you could post?


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## craign (Feb 8, 2006)

No sorry, but the mechanic did manage to get it out after breaking 2 more extractors!


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

At least you got it out.

And what appeared to be the root cause? 

Corrosion? Stripped? No use of grease on threads or shaft?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Not gonna help us out with the cause huh?


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## craign (Feb 8, 2006)

Sorry. Looks like not enough grease and then maybe the threads at the end cold welded into the alloy insert.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Interesting...

Had it been installed for an extended time since last removed?

Have a replacement?


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## craign (Feb 8, 2006)

Maybe 3 months in there?

Replaced now with a Maxle Ultimate with ample anti-seize.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Excellent! That should work for you!


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## ericzamora (Dec 14, 2017)

I had something similar happen to me. A new bike with a Stealth Maxle. No torque wrench, but when i first removed it, i tried to estimate the torque. I was repeatedly carrying my bike inside my SUV and had to remove the wheel each time.

The bike was only 1-2 months old when one day i found i could not remove the Maxle. STUCK. Turns out i did not know of the need to grease the threads. Bike shop didn't tell me, and it slipped my mind regarding typical thread-needs. I only laster discovered it in the fine print on SRAM's website. In the end, before taking to the shop to see what they could do, i just cranked on an allen wrench. one. last. time. and it came free. Whew.

-eric
fresno, ca.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

I've noticed a lot of folks use old Allen wrenches as well, will strip out a bolt easily that way too.


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## ericzamora (Dec 14, 2017)

Shark said:


> I've noticed a lot of folks use old Allen wrenches as well, will strip out a bolt easily that way too.


Ah yes, old allen wrenches can be trouble. I bought a Park PH-6 P-handle hex wrench just for this new bike. 

-eric
fresno, ca.


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## craign (Feb 8, 2006)

Yeah, my allen wrenches were like 20 years old. I recently rounded a chainring bolt with one (but figured they are soft and blamed the bolt). I have bought a new set of Wera wrenches the "hex plus" ones that are slightly oversize and meant to prevent this issue.


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

I came across this a few weeks ago. Ended up getting a 5.5mm allen wrench from the hardware, then sanding/filing it until it *just* fit.

Plan B (if it didn't work) was to epoxy a 5mm allen wrench into the Maxle, then back it out once cured.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Desperate measures sometimes require desperate actions.

In marginal situations (worn fastener or tool) I have used valve lapping and grinding compound (Clover Compound) with good success.


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