# Newbie alert! Need help with upgrades for a cheap bike.



## jameslr (May 20, 2013)

Hi all,

I'm a 35 yo father of 4 that is starting out with a basic bike and hopefully adding onto or upgrading it not only to get some experience working on bikes, but eventually to ride some trails with it later on. I've read quite a few reviews of parts, bike setups like single-speed versus multi-speed. FS or Rigid or Hardtail setups depending on what types of trails I'll be doing. I decided on a rigid bike because I don't think I'll be doing much trail riding off pavement. 

I recently purchased a 29" Mongoose Hex from wal-mart. Yes, I read the stickies and I know wal-mart bikes are terrible. But my goal here was to get a format that I liked, and from what I have read - 29" bikes are the way to go. None of the others I found on the internet were within my price range at least in terms of up-front cost. I plan on using my bike for casual riding on light trails (mostly paved, some not) as well as road riding. I really like the fit of the bike as it is, but I would like to upgrade some of the components that I feel are too cheap or poorly made. 

It's currently a single-speed bike, and I'm ok with that, but I think I might like to add a derailer at a later date because I will end up pulling a trailer that has 2 young children in it, and I'm not in the best of shape to be pulling that much weight around on a bike just yet with just one gear. I'd also like to keep a freewheel for cruising. I'd also like to upgrade the brakes to something a bit more reliable than the manufacturer supplied ones. I have tried adjusting the ones that are on it (normal rim brakes) and they still squeak horribly when under any pressure to stop. 

So in a nutshell: For this bike, what should I upgrade first? I'll be doing the upgrades gradually and I really think the crankset needs to be first, but not sure there. The factory one is making some terrible clanking noise when I pedal hard on it. So I guess I'm looking for recommendations on brands / type considering what I'll be using the bike for.

Thanks,
James


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Wow, Dude... In order to add gears to that bike, you'll need a rear wheel, cassette, derailleur, shifter... 
It's gonna cost way more to upgrade this bike than it would have been to buy a geared bike from the get go.


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## jameslr (May 20, 2013)

I understand that, but to buy a 29" geared bike with quality components that is unfortunately a premium I cannot afford just yet. I'll have to do it gradually. And also keep in mind this is a project used for learning my way around bikes.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Will the frame even accept a rear derailleur? 
If it will, I've built bikes for friends with kids who also had an eye toward value. The wheelset of choice ended up being a Shimano M529 hub (45 bucks) and a Sunringle' Inferno 27 rim (45 bucks) and spokes (50 bucks). 
Shimano SLX cassette, Sram X7 shifter and derailleur. All of this stuff can be found on Ebay for reasonable cost. 
As for the crankset, Shimano Deore can be had cheap. I found one once for 49 bucks but haven't seen it that cheap again.


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## jameslr (May 20, 2013)

I assume it will since the manual that comes with it has instructions for bikes with derailleur or single speed. Is there a quick way to verify by looking at the bike? 

I appreciate the replies, very helpful information. This gives me some part options to start looking at purchasing. If I purchase a crankset that has a chainring with multiple gears I can still keep it as a single speed, correct? I read somewhere that for road and light trail use a ratio of about 2.3:1 is recommended. The bike is currently geared 2.3:1 based on the teeth on the chainring versus the freewheel that is currently attached. I've counted and it's 36:16.

It looks like the Deore has a 36t chainring.


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## Flat Again??? (Dec 24, 2012)

The bike doesn't look like it will accept a derailleur. It has basic "track ends".









I know you don't want to hear this, but this bike isn't going to be a good platform for upgrades. I'd advise you to purchase some new brake pads ($20, approx.) and then ride the bike, as is, until something breaks.


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## jameslr (May 20, 2013)

No this is absolutely what I want to hear. I'll take it back and buy something better. Should have done more research before chipping off and buying it anyway. Hopefully they'll take it back. I've only taken it around the block a few times. Now that I'm more aware - I may save up my money and buy one of the bikesdirect.com bikes like the Hybrid 29er they're selling. I probably won't need to do any upgrading to it for it to meet my needs.


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## mattmers (Apr 13, 2013)

I would have just recommended buying a used craigslist bike instead of this. I'd say maybe return this if you can (its walmart) and have us, the community help you find a bike online and on craigslist. Help you find a bike that you can actually build off of.


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

Fit a wheel with an internal geared hub?


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## Flat Again??? (Dec 24, 2012)

The biggest issue with upgrading the Mongoose is the brakes/wheels. Most modern mountain bike wheels now use disc brakes. But your frame doesn't have the ability to mount disc brakes (there are no mounting tabs on the frame or fork.) So it's a bit of a dead end.

If saving $400-$500 will take you some time, you may be better off just riding the thing for now. FWIW the bike you got looks like a fun ride to me. I ride a bike that isn't too different (Surly Karate Monkey--single speed steel 29er) and I have well north of $1500 into it after all the upgrades I've done. Ultimately, it doesn't do much different from what your bike does--goes when you crank it, stops when you brake, and that's it.

Saftey is a bit of a concern with a $150 Walmart bike, though. :eekster:


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

With luck you might find a second hand 29er Redline Monocog or Flight on Craigs list for $150. A much better bike to upgrade.

Otherwise ride the Mongoose and save for a new bike. No point upgrading that bike other than brake pads, grips and seat if needed.


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## jameslr (May 20, 2013)

Flat Again??? said:


> Ultimately, it doesn't do much different from what your bike does--goes when you crank it, stops when you brake, and that's it.
> 
> Saftey is a bit of a concern with a $150 Walmart bike, though. :eekster:


Thanks all for the replies and suggestions. Flat, I was pretty much going for that initially as well. I just wanted a simple bike without all of the complexity of a derailleur. Granted, I've never ridden a "quality" bike that has decent components. Most of my experience with mountain bikes come from walmart or other big box stores. And needless to say, that experience hasn't been great. I figured a cheap bike as a starter that I could build off of would be the way to go - something simple but with options.

Most of the bikes I have seen on craigslist around where I live are 26" bikes. I really like the feel of the 29" bike. I rode on a few 26" bikes around here and when I stepped on the 29" at wal-mart I knew that was the fit I wanted. There are a few good bikes around here on craigslist that would be a decent platform I'm guessing. A specialized hardrock that is my size (17" frame) for $115. A Gary Fisher Trek for $175. Not much else that is 29".


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

29ers seem very "in" at the moment. Making 26 inch bikes very good value for money to buy.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

You can upgrade a hard rock. What model and year Gary Fisher?
Bike Blue Book can give used bike current values.
Mongoose Deception is upgradeable.


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## JoePAz (May 7, 2012)

jameslr said:


> No this is absolutely what I want to hear. I'll take it back and buy something better. Should have done more research before chipping off and buying it anyway. Hopefully they'll take it back. I've only taken it around the block a few times. Now that I'm more aware - I may save up my money and buy one of the bikesdirect.com bikes like the Hybrid 29er they're selling. I probably won't need to do any upgrading to it for it to meet my needs.


If you can't spend alot also consider 26" bikes. 29ers have premium on them because they are seen as "must haves". The can be little better, but a 26" bike is still a good bike and if you can get a better quality bike get it over a cheaper 29er.

This applies to new or used bikes. Now on brakes and used bikes. A used bike might have V-brakes on it and these brakes can work really well if they were quality units to start with. I still use V-brakes on my bike and it does just fine. The issue will be finding good quality V-brakes these days.


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## Kristian Nissen (Dec 18, 2013)

Hi, this is just about the only useable review of the mongoose hex out there at the moment. I have a question I hope you can answer James.

I normally ride a Kona Taro - guess I am the only one in Denmark who does! - but it recently broke, crank box suddenly just couldn't take it any more. So, I started browsing the web for a single speed MTB - just for the fun of it and found the mongoose hex. Question is, how big is it? I haven't been able to figure out the actual size of the bike, is it S, M, L ? whats the size of the bike?

I found your post, and it appears that you put some time into this bike, not sure if you kept it or returned, and I thought, that guy must know!


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## jameslr (May 20, 2013)

Kristian Nissen said:


> Hi, this is just about the only useable review of the mongoose hex out there at the moment. I have a question I hope you can answer James.
> 
> I normally ride a Kona Taro - guess I am the only one in Denmark who does! - but it recently broke, crank box suddenly just couldn't take it any more. So, I started browsing the web for a single speed MTB - just for the fun of it and found the mongoose hex. Question is, how big is it? I haven't been able to figure out the actual size of the bike, is it S, M, L ? whats the size of the bike?
> 
> I found your post, and it appears that you put some time into this bike, not sure if you kept it or returned, and I thought, that guy must know!


Hi Kristian,

I returned the bike shortly after this thread. As far as standard sizing of the frame I couldn't tell you unfortunately. If I were to venture a guess it would be a L frame. I'm 5'10" and with the seat lowered all the way my toes barely touched the ground (32" inseam). All that being said, I would not recommend this bike at all. Very little of the bike is upgrade capable without sinking way more money than the bike is worth into it.

I changed course a bit with my bike selection criteria and stepped down to 26" geared bikes. I eventually landed on a '09 GF Wahoo and I love it (bought from local craigslist for a fantastic price). If I were to go SS I'd probably get one of the bikes that bikesdirect.com makes.

Sorry if this wasn't more help and good luck with your new ride, whatever you decide! 

Cheers


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## SandSpur (Mar 19, 2013)

jameslr said:


> Hi Kristian,
> 
> I returned the bike shortly after this thread. As far as standard sizing of the frame I couldn't tell you unfortunately. If I were to venture a guess it would be a L frame. I'm 5'10" and with the seat lowered all the way my toes barely touched the ground (32" inseam). All that being said, I would not recommend this bike at all. Very little of the bike is upgrade capable without sinking way more money than the bike is worth into it.
> 
> ...


Do you realize that almost any bike with a properly adjusted seat that you wont be able to touch the ground?


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

SandSpur said:


> Do you realize that almost any bike with a properly adjusted seat that you wont be able to touch the ground?


He said he had it all the way down, rather than properly adjusted.


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## SandSpur (Mar 19, 2013)

slapheadmofo said:


> He said he had it all the way down, rather than properly adjusted.


Uh, yea.. and I was pointing out that trying to touch the ground while on the seat isnt an indication of anything useful...


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

If his seat is slammed all the way down to the frame and he can barely touch his toes to the ground, it sounds like he may fit better on a somewhat smaller frame. Properly adjusted, he'd probably only be showing 4 or 5 inches of post; it's rideable, but definitely on the big side. I personally prefer a little more room for the boys in case things go south.


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## Kristian Nissen (Dec 18, 2013)

hi James

thank you for the reply. I am 185cm, so a L would fit me fine. I understand your point of view, but I am not planning to upgrade this bike, I am looking for a cheap SS - disc brakes would be great - but I can do without. I own a Kona Taro and I am not looking for a primary bike, just a backup.

Do you know of any other single speed within the $200 price range?


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## momosgarage (Jan 11, 2010)

NYrr496 said:


> _Wow, Dude... In order to add gears to that bike, you'll need a rear wheel, cassette, derailleur, shifter...
> It's gonna cost way more to upgrade this bike than it would have been to buy a geared bike from the get go._


I don't know if this guys can build a wheel, but it looks like its 36h. Could he use a vintage 36h internal gear hub to do a rear build up on the existing rim, they sell for around $50 USD used? Also doesn't Sunlite sell a rear derailleur hanger compatible with this kind of frame?

Sunlite- Products


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## momosgarage (Jan 11, 2010)

Glad the OP found something that will be a better fit



Flat Again??? said:


> _The bike doesn't look like it will accept a derailleur. It has basic "track ends".
> 
> I know you don't want to hear this, but this bike isn't going to be a good platform for upgrades. I'd advise you to purchase some new brake pads ($20, approx.) and then ride the bike, as is, until something breaks._


It will take a rear derailleur. Here is the part:

Sunlite- Products

Also new rims and brakes wont be needed, just replace the existing rear hbb with an internal gear hub and keep the rest. Any low end 36H, possibly used, internal gear hub should be no more than $70 bucks:

Amazon.com: Sturmey Archer S30 3-Speed Internal Hub - 36h, 18T Cog, No Brake: Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com: Shimano SG-3C41 Universal Hub Kit Nexus (36H 3 Speed Coater brake): Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com: Sturmey Archer S2 Kickshift Hub, 2-Speed, 36H, FW, Black: Sports & Outdoors


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

So you suggest building a wheel to a guy posting in the beginners forum because he bought a bike that doesn't suit his needs? in a thread that's 9 mo old? He probably returned it already.

And have you tried using one of those bolt-on derailleur hangers? I have two of them (Problem Solvers and DMR versions) in my parts bin I tried using on a bike with track ends once. For one, if the dropouts are painted (like on this bike), they won't work the way they need to because the paint gums things up in the dropouts. They work best in something like this, where there's no paint in the dropout itself.










They also tend to require a bolt-on axle. I tried using Surly Tuggnut washers to adapt a QR, but in my case the spacing became too wide for the QR to grip everything.

You also posted a link to an internal gear hub with a COASTER BRAKE. Seriously, dude? No wonder you have a red chicklet under your name. Yeah, early mountain bikes had coaster brakes, but that's because there wasn't anything better available at the time for fat tires. Now there are a multitude better options for off-road riding with fat tires.

Going on that thread - a kickshift hub? WTF planet are you from?

OP is best off just saving up and buying a better bike to start with. OR just riding this Mongoose single speed for what it is.


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## momosgarage (Jan 11, 2010)

NateHawk said:


> _
> And have you tried using one of those bolt-on derailleur hangers? I have two of them (Problem Solvers and DMR versions) in my parts bin I tried using on a bike with track ends once. For one, if the dropouts are painted (like on this bike), they won't work the way they need to because the paint gums things up in the dropouts_


Its called a wire brush, remove the paint if needed down to the steel frame



NateHawk said:


> _No wonder you have a red chicklet under your name_


Well I certainly got you to answer why it would not work in this case, which is why I posted the thought. The guy said "casual riding" in the first post, so a coaster brake conversion is absolutely an option. Thanks for sharing, too bad it took hostility on your end to part some knowledge. If I had simply asked, "will this work" it would have been ignored.

I'm proud of my "red chicklet" because it means I'm willing to foul my "perceived" online "reputation" to get questions answered by any means necessary. I'm here to get questions answered, not run for public office. Read my signature phrase if you have any further questions.

You guys DO realize that you bring this on yourselves, don't you?


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