# On One Mungo Bars



## endure26 (Oct 19, 2004)

*Look suspiciously like Moustache bars but...*

Designed and inspired by trying to ride down the front of Stoodley Pike on a cyclocross bike and wanting something different. Used since on road bikes, mountainbikes, the back of someones tandem. They're great.

Facts:-

1) They work GREAT on a road bike. Run a shorter stem than you might with a drop bar as you'll be riding further forward. 80mm is spot on.

2) Levers? They are ROAD SIZE bars - so they take ROAD LEVERS. Not mountainbike ones. That means that you need to run cable discs and STI's. 105's nice. Ultegra's lovely. Dura Ace is 10speed so no good at all.

3) Brakes? Road levers don't work with mountainbike V brakes, so on a road bike you need to run CANTI's or MINI V's. Want some brakes on a MOUNTAINBIKE? Try mechanical disc brakes - the GREATER LEVERAGE (less cable pull) of a road lever, makes even the crappiest mechanical disc brake work like a 4pot hydro unit. I've run Deore Mechanicals and they're awesome.

4) Width. They're 515mm between centres at the ends. A nice wide position. With so many hand positions, you can get tucked in, cruise, whatever...

5) Finish? Shot blasted black with funky cnc lazer logos which peep out of the stem at you.

6) Bar clamp size? They're nominally 26.0 clamp. But I forgot that and ran mine in a 25.4mm mountainbike stem for six months. No problems. No worries.


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## kustomz (Jan 6, 2004)

Nice bend, but why are they marketing to MTB's when std gear will not fit? I would think they would sell a ton if std lever and stem worked! Is there a similar style or another brand that provides std besides Jones H?


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

kustomz said:


> Nice bend, but why are they marketing to MTB's when std gear will not fit? I would think they would sell a ton if std lever and stem worked! Is there a similar style or another brand that provides std besides Jones H?


That'd be our new "mary" mtb moustache riser bar...


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## Objectionable Material (Sep 29, 2004)

*Dia Compe 287 levers and Linear Pull Brakes*



endure26 said:


> 3) Brakes? Road levers don't work with mountainbike V brakes, so on a road bike you need to run CANTI's or MINI V's. Want some brakes on a MOUNTAINBIKE? Try mechanical disc brakes - the GREATER LEVERAGE (less cable pull) of a road lever, makes even the crappiest mechanical disc brake work like a 4pot hydro unit. I've run Deore Mechanicals and they're awesome.


Dia Compe makes a road lever that has enough pull for V-brakes. I beleive it is the diacompe 287 lever. It should work nicely with both cable actuated discs as well as linear pull rim brakes.

They look like this:









Hope that helps.

Peter


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## the_dude (Jun 18, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> That'd be our new "mary" mtb moustache riser bar...


quite possibly a stupid question, but i'll ask anyway. is the structural integrity of bars like the 'mary' compromised by installing it upside down? also, is the purpose of the rise in the bar to allow the use of regular rise stems?

the_dude


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## Cloxxki (Jan 11, 2004)

I would totally use the Mary as a "drop" bar, for the nicely sloping tops in an aero tuck/relaxed cruise position.


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## jonowee (Apr 8, 2004)

Brant, what's the name of the bar rumoured that On-One will be making that's not disimilar to the Jeff Jones H-Bar?


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## Fab5Fixie (Oct 15, 2004)

*While we've got Brant's ear...*

...I have some questions about the "Midge" bar:

Dimensions: How wide will it be (end-to-end)? How much flare in the drops? How much drop?

Availability: When?

Can't wait.


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## Kolo (Jan 13, 2004)

I just got this today - better get on it if you want some soon...

I have no affiliation to On-One so please don't consider this spam - Fab5Fixie asked directly...
__________________________________________________
From: "brant" <[email protected]> Add to Address Book 
Subject: Midge Drop Bars are nearly here!

Hi - just a quick mail to say that right at this 
minute, we've got our folks boxing up 50 of our 
Midge Offroad Drop bars to airfreight over. 
They'll be with us in Doncaster next week. It'll 
be first come first served with no discounts or 
pro-deals due to the excessive cost of flying 
them in, but we've settled on a retail price of 
£35 - around US$65.

Shipping £5 in the UK and £10 to the USA. 
Shipping time to the US is probably 7-10days.

Total amount we'll bill to your card if you're a 
US customer then, is £45 - which at todays rates 
is US$84.66 - though your credit card company may 
well sting you a few %ge for the currency 
conversion.

Dimensions and stuff:-

See a picture of them here...
http://gallery.mtbr.com/showphoto.php?photo=5283&password=&sort=1&cat=563&page=1

Geometry:-
Width at the ends -- 580mm - centre/centre
Width of "flat section" or "tops" - 375mm
Overall drop - 112mm centre/centre
Sweep forward - 64.5mm centre/centre (from centre 
of bar clamp to centre of tube at the front.
Flare at ends - 113deg
Finish - shotblast black anodised with lazer logos.
ID at ends (for bar end shifter users) - 19.8mm
OD on main bit of bar - 23.8 (road lever clamp standard)

We'd enclose the technical drawing for them, but 
as the tooling cost us US$8000, we'd rather it 
didn't get into the wrong hands 

Order them here:-
http://www.on-one.co.uk/order/bits.html

Ordering notes:
1) We don't take Amex
2) AOL UK users (and maybe US ones) can't access 
our secure checkout page. So you'd have to FAX an 
order to +44 1302 722111 or call us on +44 796 76 
73 709.

Like I say, we're only getting FIFTY sets in next 
week - the rest won't be here until March I 
imagine, due to shipping constraints and stuff 
like that.

Whilst your ordering though, please have a look at:-

MARY BARS
http://www.on-one.co.uk/products/mary.shtml
Our forthcoming 45deg sweep riser bar - a cross 
betweeen a moustache bar, a riser bar, and 
something else entirely.

MUNGO BARS
http://www.on-one.co.uk/products/mungo.shtml
Triple butted moustache shaped bar from our mary, mungo and midge 
range.

WHO ARE MARY MUNGO and MIDGE?
http://www.davethewave.co.uk/mary-mungo-midge/
Some of our readers might not have a clue what 
I'm on about - perhaps that link helps.

SUZUE, VERTEX and SOYO
http://www.suzue.co.uk
We're importing Japan's finest NJS approved 
products - see our suzue section for track hubs 
and track products.

and finally

SALE!!!
http://www.on-one.co.uk/order/sale2004.html
Have a dig through our end-of-last-year sale that 
still has some stuff on offer.

Cheers!!!

--
brant

http://www.on-one.co.uk


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

jonowee said:


> Brant, what's the name of the bar rumoured that On-One will be making that's not disimilar to the Jeff Jones H-Bar?


That is the Mary, pictured above.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

You need the 287*V*. The 287 is a canti lever. I have both.


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## Fab5Fixie (Oct 15, 2004)

*Wow*

More info than you can shake a stick at. Thanks for that.


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## SpinWheelz (May 3, 2004)

I know I bombarded Brant with a bunch off questions about each of these bars when I was thoroughly confused about which handlebar is which. Maybe we need a sticky on the Mungo, Mary and Midge bars with visuals so that poor Brant doesn't have to keep answering the same questions over and over again...!


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## SpinWheelz (May 3, 2004)

Woah, woah, woah. I just took a look at Brant's link to who 'Mary', 'Mungo' and 'Midge' are. Their namesakes are some naff cartoon? Someone needs a slap.


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## the_dude (Jun 18, 2004)

SpinWheelz said:


> I know I bombarded Brant with a bunch off questions about each of these bars when I was thoroughly confused about which handlebar is which. Maybe we need a sticky on the Mungo, Mary and Midge bars with visuals so that poor Brant doesn't have to keep answering the same questions over and over again...!


i would've searched for your post (i remember it well), but i thought my question was original. has he already answered this?


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## SpinWheelz (May 3, 2004)

the_dude, my comment wasn't aimed at you, mate. It was a general comment about the number of queries Brant might be getting about the identity of the various bars.


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## endure26 (Oct 19, 2004)

*Mary, Mungo, and Midge...*

You had to ask, so here they are....


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## Cygnus (Jan 7, 2004)

*M^3: mungo, midge, and the virgin mary*

I'm not usually that big on ergonomics, but i spend alot of time on my bikes, so hand and wrist positions becomes as important as the shape of my pillow. i love my wtb drop bars so much that i have a hard time riding anything else. i'm comfortable cruising and feel like a rocket descending. i'm mainly looking for a similar bar with a riser. the midge looks nice, but no riser, which is the only problem with the wtb drops--funky hi-rise stems on all but shiggy's frame. the mungo--does it have enough flare? the mary--should i mount it upside down? i'm unsure, but will probably give one or more of them a try on my road or off road SSs. Brant (On-One): i appreciate On-One's effort and would probably purchase one of your bars just out of principle.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Cygnus said:


> I'm not usually that big on ergonomics, but i spend alot of time on my bikes, so hand and wrist positions becomes as important as the shape of my pillow. i love my wtb drop bars so much that i have a hard time riding anything else. i'm comfortable cruising and feel like a rocket descending. i'm mainly looking for a similar bar with a riser. the midge looks nice, but no riser, which is the only problem with the wtb drops--funky hi-rise stems on all but shiggy's frame. the mungo--does it have enough flare? the mary--should i mount it upside down? i'm unsure, but will probably give one or more of them a try on my road or off road SSs. Brant (On-One): i appreciate On-One's effort and would probably purchase one of your bars just out of principle.


The Mungo has no flare. the bars come straight back.
The Midge drop bar has the same flair as the WTB but with a wider top, less drop and less reach. You should be able to at least take some spacers out from under the stem.


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

the_dude said:


> quite possibly a stupid question, but i'll ask anyway. is the structural integrity of bars like the 'mary' compromised by installing it upside down? also, is the purpose of the rise in the bar to allow the use of regular rise stems?
> 
> the_dude


you can run it whichever way up you fancy.

the only problem with running it inverted would be that the logos would be upside down


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## Cygnus (Jan 7, 2004)

*thanks shiggy*

Sounds like the midge is the ticket. i should have checked the dimensions as the shorter reach and drop were not apparent in the picture. i ride a road bike that never had the right fit, until i put a drop bar on with less reach and drop. very comfortable now. nice to know that there is an alternative to the wtb bars, and even better that they won't require the hi-rise stems. i had envisioned a wtb bar, but with a riser. the midge is probably better.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

[email protected] said:


> you can run it whichever way up you fancy.
> 
> the only problem with running it inverted would be that the logos would be upside down


...but you can read them while on the bike.


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Here's some pics of the Mary final pre-production samples...


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

note: amusing benefit of the design is that they'll work fine with road levers. The bar tapers from 22.2mm to 25.4mm just after the bend at the end, and as such, hits a 23.8mm sweet spot at the right point to mount up a road lever.

BTW - 287V's fit fine on 22.2mm bars anyway, according to the info on the clamp.


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## jonowee (Apr 8, 2004)

shiggy said:


> That is the Mary, pictured above.


Elegant is how I can discribe those Mary bars in one word.

Minor (very minor) issue I see with the Mary is there is no straight part to mount items like lights but there's always helmet lights, but I can still get lots of space to mount a (few) Honka Hooter.


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Being a big fan of night rides, I'd agree with you about the "straight part" bit if it weren't for the fact that I found it was fine to mount them on the angled bit... And if it gets too bad, there are those little doofers that mount off the bar to give you more bar real-estate.

Note that the 25.4mm section goes all the way to the final bend, rather than tapering down in the centre like most bars - that was something I was quite keen to design in (lots of torsional stiffness and bending strength too).


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