# Tool for changing chainring + install bashguard



## Dmytro (Nov 11, 2003)

I thought the search would turn something up, unfortunately not. It seems to me like I would need a PARK CCP-4 SPLINE CRANK PULLER to remove the cranks, prior to removing an old ring with a hex key, and installing a bash guard.

Some stats:
Stock cranks on 04 Stumpjumper FSR Expert Disc
*CRANKSET* Custom Shimano Hollowtech, Octalink XT Spline
*CHAINRINGS* 44Ax32Ax22S, 4 bolt 104/64mm pattern, steel chainring bolts
*BOTTOM BRACKET* Shimano ES-30 Octalink spline, 68mm shell, 121mm spindle. 50mm chainline.

Is this correct? Any additional tools needed?

Some pics of my drivetrain and tool in question attached..

Thanks, you guys are awesome!


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## the Inbred (Jan 13, 2004)

well, i'm willing to bed you could actually get it done without pulling the crankarm.


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## gearz (Aug 31, 2004)

*Crank Puller not needed...*

if all you are doing is removing the big ring and replacing it with a bash guard. You do need to pull the crank if you want to replace the middle or small chainrings and yes that is the right puller for an Octalink crank.


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## Gevorg (Dec 7, 2004)

Self extracting cranks?
I thought those were self extracting cranks. Install the hex bolt back that holds the cranks, and it should have a threaded washer that goes over it. Install that threaded washer using narrow needlo nose pliers as tight as you can. Then using hex wrench start turning the hex bolt counterclockwise, bolt will push against the threaded washer and will pull the crank off see attached picture below for bolt and washer


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## Dmytro (Nov 11, 2003)

Well, the bashguard part sure is easy! Will probably take about 2 minutes with experience.

Now, onto the removing crank part. I removed the 10mm hex bolt, and do not see a washer or anything else like that. See attached photo.

Perhaps I'm doing something obviously stupid?


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## gearz (Aug 31, 2004)

Bloodfist said:


> Well, the bashguard part sure is easy! Will probably take about 2 minutes with experience.
> 
> Now, onto the removing crank part. I removed the 10mm hex bolt, and do not see a washer or anything else like that. See attached photo.
> 
> Perhaps I'm doing something obviously stupid?


That doesn't look like a self-extracting crank bolt so you will need the CCP-4 to pull the cranks. Or buy some self-extracting bolts but I would just get the puller.


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## maggie42 (May 11, 2006)

Bloodfist, 1) I posted a response to the email you sent me re. the spoke calc. (Damon Rinard's is a bit more extensive) but I don't think it got to you. I'm kinda new at this forum stuff 2) that looks like a splined crank to me therefore the CCP-4 should work 3) Ravenshoe is also one of my favourite rides


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## Dmytro (Nov 11, 2003)

Thanks, looks like I'm going with the puller.

11 USD isn't so bad. Just a quick question, does this puller need to be used on the newer style cranks (ie: XT 760), if I ever go that route in the future. Just curious whether I will need a new tool.


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## gearz (Aug 31, 2004)

Bloodfist said:


> Thanks, looks like I'm going with the puller.
> 
> 11 USD isn't so bad. Just a quick question, does this puller need to be used on the newer style cranks (ie: XT 760), if I ever go that route in the future. Just curious whether I will need a new tool.


The CCP-4 is only for Octalink or Isis style cranks. The new external bearing style cranks don't need a puller to remove the crank; though you need a tool to install the bearing cups, Park CCP-9 does that.


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## Dmytro (Nov 11, 2003)

Hey guys,

Sorry to bump the thread, but I'd rather just add my next question to this discussion.

1) Do you have any tips for removing the washer from inside of the crank threads? You may be able to see this from the last photo that I posted: I removed the bolt, but the washer is still stuck inside. I can not move it with fingers alone. This was not an issue on the left crank.
2) I am a little confused with proper use of the CCP-4 tool. Surprisingly, the Park website (http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=120) hasn't been of much help.



> 1.	Remove crankarm bolt and any washer inside the arm.
> 2.	Unthread nut from handle stud of CCP-4 or CWP-6 until the tip is flush with the nut. This allows tool[qsdd to have full thread contact inside the crank.
> 3.	Thread nut into crankarm and tighten with wrench until snug. If nut is not completely threaded into crankarm, the threads of the arm or nut may be damaged.
> 4.	Thread handle stud into nut. When resistance is felt, continue threading handle stud into nut until crankarm is removed.
> 5.	Repeat process on other arm.


Step 2 is unclear; Step 3 seems ambiguous: is a "wrench" an additional wrench, or the tool itself. Perhaps someone can clarify. Thanks a bunch


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## gearz (Aug 31, 2004)

Bloodfist said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Sorry to bump the thread, but I'd rather just add my next question to this discussion.
> 
> ...


Never had a problem with the crankbolt washer not coming off with the bolt. Did the non-drive side have a washer? You ought to be able to pull it out with some kimd of pick tool I suppose.....

The puller is really easy to use. Just spin the outer nut of the tool down to the tip of the tool before threading the tool onto the crankarm. Then turn the tool handle clockwise and the tip of the tool will push the crankarm off the bike by pushing against the spindle. It's really quite simple.


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## Dmytro (Nov 11, 2003)

gearz said:


> Never had a problem with the crankbolt washer not coming off with the bolt. Did the non-drive side have a washer? You ought to be able to pull it out with some kimd of pick tool I suppose.....


Yes, the non-drive side had a washer, and that came out very easily.


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## HJB (Apr 27, 2004)

As said up near the top, there's no need to pull the crank arm to swap the big ring for a bash guard. It can be done in place.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

The main bike mechanic is leaving so I'm going to be installing the bashguard myself. I just need to take off the outer ring on mine. But since I'm taking off the big chain ring, do I just need to adjust the top screw so the outer limit is on the 2nd one only or leave it alone?

Also taking off the outer ring and the middle one says K-32. So does that mean I get the one its covering, the middle ring or do I go by the one its replacing, the outer ring? I havent ordered yet but will tomorrow. I dont want to make a mistake! I think I need a 32, correct?


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## gearz (Aug 31, 2004)

cstone said:


> The main bike mechanic is leaving so I'm going to be installing the bashguard myself. I just need to take off the outer ring on mine. But since I'm taking off the big chain ring, do I just need to adjust the top screw so the outer limit is on the 2nd one only or leave it alone?
> 
> Also taking off the outer ring and the middle one says K-32. So does that mean I get the one its covering, the middle ring or do I go by the one its replacing, the outer ring? I havent ordered yet but will tomorrow. I dont want to make a mistake! I think I need a 32, correct?


Turn the high gear limit screw all the way in. You won't be able to shift the front derailleur past the middle ring. Works great.

K-32 refers to the number of teeth on the middle ring. You want to buy a bash that is just a little bigger than the 32. Sounds like you are on the right path. You can buy a bash to cover a big ring (42 tooth) but that would be stupid imo and you wouldn't gain any ground clearance which is one of the biggest benefits of going 2X with bash...

Now you can go with a medium cage and enjoy better clearance and crisper shifting too:thumbsup:


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

gearz said:


> Turn the high gear limit screw all the way in. You won't be able to shift the front derailleur past the middle ring. Works great.
> 
> K-32 refers to the number of teeth on the middle ring. You want to buy a bash that is just a little bigger than the 32. Sounds like you are on the right path. You can buy a bash to cover a big ring (42 tooth) but that would be stupid imo and you wouldn't gain any ground clearance which is one of the biggest benefits of going 2X with bash...
> 
> Now you can go with a medium cage and enjoy better clearance and crisper shifting too:thumbsup:


Cool, so use a 36? They dont have a 34. Or use the 32? I dont want to mess up lol. Now doesnt seem hard. Cant wait to stall on the logs now.  And I assume I can take a link out of my chain too? That always is rattling when I ride.


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## savagemann (Jan 14, 2008)

You want the 32 bash.
Unless you plan on changing to a larger front ring in the future. If you are not sure, maybe get a 36 bash.....Thats what I did for my 32 ring, because I plan on changing to a 36t ring when the time comes.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

Thanks! I'll order the 32. Later I'll get a med. cage. But I can take out a link out of my chain now right?


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## savagemann (Jan 14, 2008)

Yea, you should be able to without any probs. To check, shift into the 32 up front, and the largest cog in back, and test how many links you can remove without hyperextending the derailluer cage, by folding links upon themself. Usually 1 or 2 can go.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

When is it hyperextended? When its tight or is there a degree mark? I hate the way my chain rattles when I jump or hit things. But until the cage starts to bend I kinda dont want to replace it. I have shimano alivio so dont think it will last forever. I ordered the E-13 supercharger white bashguard in a 32t. COOL! :thumbsup:


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