# Best Connectors



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

I have searched and searched but I can't find a concensus on what are the best connectors for DIY bike lights. Yes it is mentioned in many threads, but, not in one place. So can you help me learn about connectors and plugs; types, best of the best, brands, waterproof/resist, best value and where to buy.

I have come across these alternatives:
Line - simple DC plug to socket







Banana Plugs







Mini XLR







Soft Shell connectors (also called Tamiya and Molex connector)







Deans








A lot of hobby DIY electronics supply stores seem to have lower quality stuff. The Mini XLR and simple DC line plugs are the lowest quality. I have used them and have not been happy.

I have gone to manufacturer sites like Conxall and ODU and I can see their connectors are high quality (and no doubt expensive), but I just don't know where to buy them and which models to pick (I am in Australia FYI).

As some more background. I have a Vicious HID system, and some old M11 Halogen heads (Marwi style). I just ordered a Cutter 3xCree M11 kit with bflex. I intend to use the Vicious charger and Li-on batteries, and will build buy 2x battery packs. I want the same plugs on all heads, batteries and the charger.

The mini XLR like/style 3 pin plugs (the are a bit different from XLR) the Vicious came with are excellent - but I don't know there brand or where to buy (I have emailed Vicious but they are now out of the light game - so not sure how this will go or for how long they might have supply).

I'd really like your help. Thanks in advance.


----------



## peanuts (Feb 17, 2004)

You could try batteryspace, they sell the weather resistant? DC locking plug variety which trailtech use.
They're a decent quality product compared to what you get from jaycar etc.
You could also email dinnotte and see if he'll sell you some of his type. Basicly they have an extra shroud over the connector for improved weather proofing.
Both are DC types.
You could also try HIDtechnonlgies in OZ, he uses a multi pin setup on his connectors.


----------



## the.vault (Oct 11, 2006)

I was looking at doing something myself and then decided to work on some other stuff. Like my job.

Local Hobby stores don't have good stuff. It sounds like you want a nice looking overmolded connector. Most of those are custom. 

Phoenix Contacts has a Speedcon series of connectors. They are designed to fit an M12 connector. (That's some kind of standard). It's a round connector that locks down with a quarter turn. It comes on a cable that's avaible in different increments of length. (1 ft, 1 meter, 5 meter) It's available in a number of conductor configurations 1, 2, 3,4. 

The connection is also rated for IP65 or IP66, basically it's supposed to deal with water. Maybe even a pressurized stream. And the cable is green, with a silicone jacket, so it looks good.

DigiKey might carry these things. I forget where I found them, maybe allied electronics is a distributor. These are all American companies. 

You have to do a little a work.


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

Thanks. I justed looked at HIDtechnologies. The connectors look like mini XLR (alot like the Jaycar ones which I think are too low quality). I have visited Batterspace and while they have a great range, the DC locking plugs (at least they lock) don't seem as nice as my Vicious pin plugs (my current benchmark). I had these plus on my old NightPros and while ok, they are not the best. I will email Dionette. Their lights impress me.


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

These are the type of connectors I'd like....







They are from batteryspace, but, they only seem to come with cable attached - which I could work with but I'd like to match them to a chassis connector on my charger and this doesn't seem to be available. Does anyone know what brand/type these connectors are so I can find other compatible connectors?


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

the.vault said:


> Phoenix Contacts has a Speedcon series of connectors. They are designed to fit an M12 connector. (That's some kind of standard). It's a round connector that locks down with a quarter turn. It comes on a cable that's avaible in different increments of length. (1 ft, 1 meter, 5 meter) It's available in a number of conductor configurations 1, 2, 3,4.
> 
> .


They look nice - Speedcon:








Perhaps a bit bigger than I'd like - but on the money in terms of quality. The ODU connectors look excellent also - but smaller than the Phoenix. I am going to see if I can find some tomorrow.


----------



## joebreez (Sep 10, 2005)

I've used the Trailtech style connectors from Batteryspace and find they are actually a nice connector.The leads are about 4" long and allow you to have a tail coming out of the light unit. 
They're waterproof and click shut. I didn't have those type of connectors on my charger so I soldered in a Tamiya connector onto the pack next to the Trailtech's.
That way I just use whatever plug I need and I don't have to retrofit anything else.It seems like extra clutter but it's not really that bad.

Eric S


----------



## ohpossum (Dec 19, 2003)

FWIW, my Marwi lights came with Trailtech connectors. You might have half your wiring completely already 

op


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

Thanks, yes my old Marwi's were ok and I could go that way, but I'd love to know apart from Batterspace what other alternatives exist out there? Where else can a DIY builder look and what are some of the kinds, brands and types of plug and connector.

Don't get me wrong - but I want the connectors that you can't get at Batterspace that would be great for bike lights - and where to buy.

Trail-Tech Connector


----------



## cytoe (Jan 20, 2004)

*marwi cables cables look like the ones from battery space, BUT...*

The locking dc connectors (the style they now use on their batteries) are a little different. The female side has something that hugs the male positive side. I tried using the new battery space male w/ the Marwi's female, and the connection on the positive wasn't good.


----------



## crux (Jan 10, 2004)

*Torture test*

While back was working on some batteries that were rated around 16,000 mAh at 14.4V In order to have or packs shippable we had meet several strict FAA and UN regulations. During testing most of the connectors failed even the multi-pin versions. Only connector to pass all tests was the Deans. (Including a 1 ohm load across the terminal until the battery has lost all potential.)

All types of hobby, COTS and Mil connectors were tried that meet spec. for the application. If I am looking for a low loss connector or need to handle high load conditions I'll stick with a simple cheap Deans.

For video applications the fancy multi-pin connectors start to play a roll. Preference there would be for a Hirose connector. http://www.hirose.co.jp/cataloge_hp/e12502017.pdf


----------



## Robsibis (Jan 4, 2007)

Both Nightlightning and Lupine use Molex connectors. I purchased some from Allied Electric for under a dollar! Allied has no handling charge and only charges actual shipping rates. http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pr...ESC=03-06-2023&R=863-0258&sid=4769B080229E17F is a link to the female connector. You have to also purchase the pins (male and female) to both the female and male connectors. They have worked flawlessly and can be used without soldering anything by crimping. Have been satisfied with these.


----------



## rockymtnway (Nov 14, 2004)

I agree, Molex connectors are a cheap, easy way to go. IMHO, they're better than the BatterySpace connectors because they are impossible to reverse polarity on (after blowing a charger because the big side of the plug will fit into the small female if you're tired enough, I learned). Also, some auto parts stores will have plugs that lock and are impossible to reverse polarity on. I have a friend who scored a half-dozen pairs of connectors with wired leads for $5 because the guy let him go out and snip them himself. They're both waterproof and locking, where molexes aren't either (but who cares about waterproof with 14.8v, and a single wrap of electrical tape makes them locking (and almost completely waterproof).


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

I have gone to manufacturer sites like Conxall and ODU and I can see their connectors are high quality (and no doubt expensive), but I just don't know where to buy them and which models to pick (I am in Australia FYI). [/QUOTE]

ODU Mini-Snap:








Micro Conxall:


----------



## rockymtnway (Nov 14, 2004)

Googled...found this Not in oz, but they carry both the 3182-2SG-318 & 3182-2PG-318.


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

rockymtnway said:


> Googled...found this Not in oz, but they carry both the 3182-2SG-318 & 3182-2PG-318.


Thanks - the 5 weeks lead time quoted scares me. The Conxall connectors do look like the 'best-of-breed' potential light connectors. Are they overkill? Perhaps. But it would be great if you could buy 2 or 3 pin Conxall connectors off-the-shelf for bike light use someplace.

I remember reading about using Conxall connectors in a DIY post. If you have used them perhaps you could help with some more information in this thread?


----------



## the.vault (Oct 11, 2006)

Here are some links to distributors of the speedcon connectors, and information on the connector.

https://www.phoenixcon.com/speedcon/










Distributor

www.mouser.com
https://www.mouser.com/catalog/632/1152.pdf catalog page

https://www.schusterusa.com/phoenixcontact_speedcon.shtml

If you are resourceful you might be able to get a sinlge piece sample from phoenix contact directly.


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

*Brad Harrison Nano-Change (M8) connectors*

What about Brad Harrison Nano-Change (M8) connectors?

"Brad Harrison Nano-Change (M8) connectors and cordsets offer the industry's broadest selection of space-saving cordsets, receptacles, inserts, splitters, and molded junction boxes. They provide rugged performance in tight spaces while minimizing downtime, maintenance and wiring time.

Single-ended Cordsets > Double-ended Cordsets > Receptacles > Splitters > Field-attachables"

Checkout:
http://www.woodhead.com/products/automation/connectorscordsets/bhpassivemedia/nanochange/
















Anyone know about these?


----------



## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

Phoenix Pluscon are expensive - a male & female with 1.5 cables set will cost $30


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

crux said:


> Preference there would be for a Hirose connector. http://www.hirose.co.jp/cataloge_hp/e12502017.pdf


Here is a Hirose:


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

*Tyco M8*

Tyco seems to have heaps of connectors. Their M8 connector looks great:







http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/TE/bin/TE.Menu?M=MENU&ID=17678&LG=1&I=13


----------



## the.vault (Oct 11, 2006)

Tyco and Molex are couple of the biggest global suppliers for electronic connectors. If you have any type of electronics, chargers, inkjet printers, computers, you'll find their connectors used.

I just happened to come across the phoenix contact connectors, and didn't look too much farther. They tend to market more to industrial markets. Their stuff usually costs a little more, but it's usually built to handle more environmental conditions.

If you are building one of these lights for yourself, then paying an extra few dollars for a connector sort of washes out. If you are trying to going to into production with a design, reducing the cost becomes more important.

When things are designed to waterproof there some ratings IP 65, IP 66 and IP67, they all indicate varying amounts of moisture resistance. I imagine there are other ratings. If you wish to keep looking that's something you can type into a search engine.

i.e - quick change connector IP65


----------



## adrenalnjunky (Jul 28, 2007)

I am planning on using good-old tamiya style connectors. They lock, can be made relatively waterproof, and are cheap - I picked up 3 sets of Male/female with leads from my local R/C hobby shop for $2.99 a pair. I'm planning on using some R/C Nimh 7.2v and 8.4v packs here and there, and they are already wired for those types of plugs. That way I can get everything on one type of connector.


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

adrenalnjunky said:


> I am planning on using good-old tamiya style connectors. .


Tamiya (or softshell connector, or Molex connector or many other names)


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

News for me is that Vicious Lights have agreed to supply me enough connector sets to make my new Cutter Cree M11 kit/ Marwi style housing light match my Vicious HID - and importantly charger. 

The Vicious connectors are a three pin 8mm style metal barrel conector (I'll post a picture soon). They are not waterproof, but as another poster said with 14.4v that isn't so much of a concern. They are high quality.

This doesn't mean my search for the ultimate connector has stopped. No sir. So far the ODU or Speedcon are my canidates, and I will buy some samples. They promise IP68 (waterproof). 

Anyway. This weekend I build.

By the way. I recently upgraded an old halogen set for a buddy. I used Tamiya style connectors for him (low cost). He is happy and they are fool proof. A bit 'big' is the downside.

I'll keep at this connector post with updates and additions as a resource if you are all interested?

Coldie.


----------



## rockymtnway (Nov 14, 2004)

This is the best solution if your new batteries will work on your old charger. Since going HID in 2004 and now going LED in 2006-2007, I've standardized on a similar, but non-locking, Molex. Since all my batteries and chargers are 14.8v li-ion, it works good for me. The only non-Molex connector lights I have are 7.4v halogen relics from the Jurassic era and I have no intention of updating those dino's.


----------



## Citizen Kane (Aug 12, 2007)

Here are some pics of the connectors I use.

























The connectors are polarised and latching. The small green grommets seal between the cables and housing and help strain relieve as well. Rubber boots are available for sealing the cable but I choose to use adhesive lined heat shrink instead. Once the connected everything should be water tight.

Its a Tyco Amp connector http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=314-1198


----------



## cytoe (Jan 20, 2004)

*Tyco Amp connector*

Is this connector sold in pairs (ie both male/female side)?

thanks


----------



## Citizen Kane (Aug 12, 2007)

Unfortunatly you have to by all the parts individually. That means from the RS web site you will need,

Plug shell, min order quantity 5,
Socket Shell, min order quantity 5,
Plug crimp, min order quantity 100,
Socket crimp, min order quantity 100,
Grommets, min order quantity 100,
Covers if you want them, min order quantity 5.

So you can see it all starts to add up. I've standardised on these connectors for all my lights so it makes sense for me, if you just want one complete connector RS is obviously not the place to go but I'm sure that there must be other companies that would supply in smaller quantities.


----------



## [jsl] (Sep 20, 2007)

Citizen Kane said:


> Here are some pics of the connectors I use.


I'm planning on using the same connectors, the Super Seals.


----------



## Bryguy17 (May 19, 2007)

does anybody know of a good panel mount connector? I'd like to have a socket that will be on the shell of my housing, but i havnt seen anything. just want waterproof and reliable.


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

*Lemo*

I really like the range and options offered by Lemo... Look at this...

http://www.lemo.com/index.jsp









Many configurations and styles available. Now where to get them...


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

*Hirschmann*

Also the Hirschmann connectors seem to fit the 'possible best' requirement. I am sold on snap lock for Helmet mount safety. Checkout the Sensor e series M8 connectors...

http://hus.hirschmann.com/English/I...roduct_overview/Sensor_connectors/index.phtml









I picked up the reference to Lemo and Hirschmann in a post like mine in the Candelpower forum... They are both being used for DIY lights.


----------



## the.vault (Oct 11, 2006)

I forgot about Lemo. They actually have a factory just down the road from me in California.

They make mission critical connectors. Stuff used on missions, they probably have some connectors on mars right now.

They aren't inexpensive, try and get a sample.


----------



## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Cool!*



Citizen Kane said:


> Here are some pics of the connectors I use.
> 
> The connectors are polarised and latching. The small green grommets seal between the cables and housing and help strain relieve as well. Rubber boots are available for sealing the cable but I choose to use adhesive lined heat shrink instead. Once the connected everything should be water tight.
> 
> Its a Tyco Amp connector http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=314-1198


Those look like all the connectors that litter the engine bay of my VW GTi.

I really would like to standardize all my connectors. I've been using Molex and barrel connectors that fit my NR stuff. I actually kinda like the NR barrels with the rubber boots, and would like to figure out what they are using. I've been using stuff from Radio Shack covered with some shirink wrap around my NR connectors to get a snug water resistant fit.


----------



## dnlwthrn (Jan 26, 2006)

Coldass said:


> I have gone to manufacturer sites like Conxall and ODU and I can see their connectors are high quality (and no doubt expensive), but I just don't know where to buy them and which models to pick (I am in Australia FYI).


The Conxall are availabe from Digi-Key (not sure about shipping to OZ). The "nano-mizer" is probably the size we want (1" long, 3/8" dia.) and runs about $7 each... (catalog pg 372, at the bottom).

The Hirose connectors are also available through Digi-Key, and the MXR series seems to be the best fit for our setups (max current of 2A). However, they're a bit more expensive, with the plug running $15.73 each and the receptacles running $9-10 each.

Wow, there are so many options, just a matter of digging through the catalog...


----------



## adrenalnjunky (Jul 28, 2007)

pimpbot said:


> Those look like all the connectors that litter the engine bay of my VW GTi.
> 
> I really would like to standardize all my connectors. I've been using Molex and barrel connectors that fit my NR stuff. I actually kinda like the NR barrels with the rubber boots, and would like to figure out what they are using. I've been using stuff from Radio Shack covered with some shirink wrap around my NR connectors to get a snug water resistant fit.


those connectors are generally referred to as "weather pak" or something similar in vehicular applications. If you have a local auto salvage yard that is one of those "U pull it yourself" places, you could go and harvest several handfuls of them out of wrecked cars possibly. Probably for not a lot of cash. Those places make money off the mechanical parts of the vehicles, the little stuff like that is unimportant to them.


----------



## Bryguy17 (May 19, 2007)

those lemos look awesome, and expensive...if you do find someplace to get them let me know


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

the.vault said:


> They aren't inexpensive, try and get a sample.


If you get a sample please post pictures, price and comments here. I think the Lemo connectors offer some great options. And yes while the price is high compared to Tamiya/Molex, compared to Li-on batteries it is not so much more for a kit with such quality connectors.


----------



## Bryguy17 (May 19, 2007)

personally, i dont trust molex or tamiya connectors. they work themselves loose after a time and can cause problems. Deans are the only thing I'm going to use on my battery packs, but they aren't weatherproof, so I'll need something different for the light itself. hmmm


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

*Some considerations and thoughts....*

I have learned....

*Helmet connectors should be break apart - or snap lock for safety reason.
*Basic in-line DC connectors have been tried and ditched by many (mostly because they don't snap together).
*Soft shell or Tamiya connectors represent the best value and are readily available. They have poor water resistance and are really bulky for our purpose. I think they lead to using BIG speaker style wire - which isn't needed for bike LED lights. Halogens perhaps. 
*In Line with a snap (Trail Tech) are ok - but nothing special.
*AMP Super Seal connectors are looking like a nice 'best or breed' alternative.
*A raft of industrial connector makers make suitable M8 IP67 or IP68 connectors. These are likely the best of the best. But. They are hard to get and expensive. If we could find an easy, ready source of even one of these brands at a fair price - I would buy. As it stands I have to wade through electronics catalogs and deal with niche suppliers. Getting out of my depth as a DIYer to a degree - and time consuming. If only a 'batterysource' vendor sold them ready for bike lights.

Two or three pin, M8 (small as possible), plastic shell, take a 5mm cable, rated >2A, snap apart, IP67. - Male, female, and panel connector. Solder ready. Easy to buy.....


----------



## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

On the shootout, my favorite connectors were these ones from Dinotte.
- they were the easiest to connect and disconnect. they don't need to be aligned or screwed on.
- they form a very nice, waterproof seal when connected
- very sturdy, no accidental disconnects.

Note: they are stiff to disconnect in the beginning and break-in through time. I applied some lube and all was well instantly.










I don't know about aftermarket availability but I would look for these qualities in a connector.

fc


----------



## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

if you can afford it... these are very nice
IP68 rating
plastic for light weight
Strain relief due to long backshell










https://www.bulgin.co.uk/Products/Buccaneer/Buccaneer_400_Series.html

available from digikey
page 390 section A of the Canadian catalog.

total cost per connector pair (male + female) will be around 14 CDN + shipping and taxes. Not too bad... contacts are sold seperately in packs of 10 for 11 bucks. But we only need 2 contacts per connector. Buy the solder type unless you have the 300 dollar tool to crimp the contact onto the wire.


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

Cheers! said:


> if you can afford it... these are very nice
> IP68 rating
> plastic for light weight
> Strain relief due to long backshell
> ...


I found these in my hunt and was very excited as they met all the 'perfect' criteria. BUT. They are big - 19mm diameter - TOO BIG. I think they need to be half that size - M8...

I couldn't see a smaller Bulgin connector.


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

francois said:


> On the shootout, my favorite connectors were these ones from Dinotte.
> - they were the easiest to connect and disconnect. they don't need to be aligned or screwed on.
> - they form a very nice, waterproof seal when connected
> - very sturdy, no accidental disconnects.
> ...


They look perfect. I can see Dinoette have many great attributes in their products. So far they seem to be 'shining' in the shootout. I wonder where we can get these aftermarket. I'll email Dinoette as they do say they will sell parts on their web site.

Thanks.

Coldie.


----------



## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

ok. Here is another one that can be of interest.

manufacturer: Binder (German make, they have USA office)
Rating: IP67

I was originally going to use them when I designed my own enclosure for the Cree 3X LED lights. But I passed at the end and bought a marwi light and scavenged the housing.

Product line: Series 702 (comes with cordset) Some may say that is bad, but I prefer it as it is sometimes very difficult to install the strain relief backshells on connectors over cords.

Pricing is about 20 bucks per connector, or 40 bucks per connection pair (not cheap) but with it assmebled and with flying leads all you do is splice in to your existing setup and use waterproof heatshrink. done.

Size is M9.


















unfortunately I digikey does not carry them. I think Mouser does (another electronics supply shop). Alternatively You can order directly from binder usa off their website.


----------



## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

sorry for the quick 2nd post. Noticed they have updated their website with other alternatives. There is the Series 430. Plastic connector. Also IP67. Overall OD of 14.5 mm. About 10 bucks each.


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

*Binder*



Cheers! said:


> ok. Here is another one that can be of interest.
> 
> manufacturer: Binder (German make, they have USA office)
> Rating: IP67


That is seriously nice. Binder

You bring into plan the key consideration of cable and cable connection. I have noticed that many DIYer's use WAY bigger cables than they need to.

I think if I was starting from scratch I'd buy pre-cabled connectors. I have found that for about $20-40 you can get a high quality IP67/68 cable with both male and female connectors (one each end) and about 2M of cable. Given say two head units, and two batteries in a setup, you'd need two of these. Therefore for an awesome quality waterproof cabling job your talking $40-$80 bucks.

Expensive compared to Tamiya connectors with speaker wire? Sure. But if your buying 2600mAh of Li-ons's x2 ($120), 2 x Cutter kits ($200), 2 x head units ($50), this isn't so much.

I think I can buy what I need at:
http://www.farnell.com/

They seem to have most of the brands I have mentioned in this thread and some.


----------



## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

I'm cheap, I'm planning on the standard molex or trailer connectors. They are cheap and easily available. A little dielectric grease will do the trick. Why spend more on connectors than necessary? If they work on trailers rolling down the highway in a rainstorm they should work fine for a bike light.


----------



## plasticmann (May 7, 2006)

I'm also looking to standardise my connector collection and will probably just go the Deans Ultra way.

My original lights were 20w halogen DIY lights using audio connectors. I then bought a Brightstar HID last year with a nice water proof connector. Since used the soft shell ones (Jaycar) on a few projects but always planned to swap them out for something water proof light like on the HID. I then read this thread on CPF, (ref post #6) and it made sense. Why not just go Deans. The RC crowd love and abuse them so they'd have to be good for MTB.

They handle way more amps than we'd ever need, they have a big area for soldering, they stay plugged and they are cheap.

one of many ebay sources

I haven't done this yet so its still untested theory for me, though there are many using Deans of course.


----------



## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

Current rating is a moot point really. Most bike lights do not consume more than 2A of current. The two key areas to be looking at when selecting connectors in my opinion are:

1.) strain relief of the wire since the we are always bouncing up and down riding the bike on the trail. Many of the molex / tamiya / weather pak connectors do not have these features. The last thing you want is a pin pulling out of the connector when you are on the trails. Citizen Kane's method of using heat shrink to provide shrink relief helps, but it still nothing compared to a proper clamping backshell. 
2.) waterproof/water resistant.


----------



## plasticmann (May 7, 2006)

But is waterproofing something that is really needed or something that we assume we need ??


----------



## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

IMHO I don't think it is that important. Water is a poor conductor and rain is pretty clean water. Like I said in an earlier posting, if it works for trailers on the road with 70mph winds and rain it should work on a bike. And the high frequency vibration of a car is just as bad as we'll see on a bike. Plugs like these should work fine, stay connected and be cheaper and easier to find in an emergency. They just won't have the bling bling factor of a bayonet connector.


----------



## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

Well during a 24 hr endurance relay race, it might rain. The race doesn't stop because it is raining. The only time in 7 years of racing that race was it ever canceled once, that was because of a massive thunderstorm. The last thing I need is the lights going out on me while I'm on a lap in the rain.


----------



## Bryguy17 (May 19, 2007)

ya, i'll probably just end up using deans in the long run, but I'd like to find a way to reliably make them waterproof, or at least water resistant. possibly an oring around the contacts. 

fyi, if you go deans, solder the connectors with two mated, otherwise the contacts will get misaligned during soldering and be a pain to separate or put together


----------



## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

Cheers! said:


> Well during a 24 hr endurance relay race, it might rain. The race doesn't stop because it is raining. The only time in 7 years of racing that race was it ever canceled once, that was because of a massive thunderstorm. The last thing I need is the lights going out on me while I'm on a lap in the rain.


But rain won't cause your lights to go out with a connector that gets wet unless the corrosion is so bad that it probably won't work when dry. Water is a very poor conductor especially when your pulling the current with a bike light. If it was a problem half of the trailers on the road wouldn't have lights. As long as the driver circuit stays dry it will work fine. I'll spend my money on beerz, not fancy connectors.


----------



## Bryguy17 (May 19, 2007)

its true rain itself wont cause a short, but rain isnt the only foreign debris that can cause one.

We ride through a lot of mud, dirty water, etc. You don't know what's in said puddle for sure, someone could have some along with a bunch of table salt and made it electrolytic. not that likely, but its goes to show that you aren't sure whats going in there in such a case.

Also, its always nice to protect against dust intrusion. it keeps your contacts nice and crud free.

short circuits aside, its good to keep the contacts separate from the environment for corrosion reasons as well.

I'll probably end up with deans. I might put an o-ring or something to seal the contacts just for peace of mind. but thats just me


----------



## VaughnA (Jan 21, 2004)

If you have any experience with the connectors that I linked to in the previous posts they are potted except for the connector themselves which will be protected by the rubber housing. The deans look good as well. I doubt that there will be a problem with any of the connectors mentioned before either the battery wears out or we find next best light. It's just more fun to discuss them than leave it alone;-)


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

Bryguy17 said:


> its true rain itself wont cause a short, but rain isnt the only foreign debris that can cause one


I have found that most of the connectors I have discovered while moving this thread will do the job. But the mantle of what is best is another story.

I agree with you that waterproofing itself isn't the end, but environment proofing. I would say that:

Reliability of connection (snap/screw join, wire support etc..)
Size (I find that 'trailer/auto' connectors are just so big for the purpose) - I can tell you the wires to my bflex PCB are small for 
Easy of use (solder v. crimp, ease of solder/crimp, quality)

Are the top three,

Then:
Weather proofing - and waterproof achieves this

Of course value rates...


----------



## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

Just to throw in another version - I work in the off-highway equipement industry, and Weatherpack connectors are common:http://www.weatherpack.com/connectors.html

Hmm - sure look a lot like the Tyco Amp connectors Citizen Kane posted a while back!

If they can withstand grease/oil/diesel/heat/dust/ice/etc, then I'm pretty confident they'll work on a set of bike lites!


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

VaughnA said:


> If you have any experience with the connectors that I linked to in the previous posts they are potted except for the connector themselves which will be protected by the rubber housing. ....It's just more fun to discuss them than leave it alone;-)


Those trailer connectors are 4-way and no doubt would work more than good - but they look HUGE and are designed for wire an order of magnitude that I can solder on a PCB like a bflex.

I agree that nearly all the connectors in this thread will work, and perhaps outlast the battery - that said I have had a few mashed plugs and in one 24-hour race had a connector rip to bits a quater of the way into a 3am freezing lap after I snagged a tree branch in singletrack. I have also tried softshell connectors and find they are too loose and and the pins eventually fail. Not good for frequent connect disconnect.

The simple DC inline connectors work best for this. The industrial waterproof stuff is also strong - even if overkill.


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

My solution to the connector question is to not use ANY.

All of my DIY lights (so far) run on NiMh AA cells in a battery holder. The holder then goes in an acrylic tube with end caps to keep the rain off it. OK, I guess you could call the battery holder a connector.

This approach doesn't work for those with sealed battery packs, sorry.

Mark


----------



## Bryguy17 (May 19, 2007)

i was fiddling around with some stuff on my desk and found what seems to be a good way of making deans better. basically its strategic placement of heat shrink so as to seal the connector better.

onto the pictures:



















seems it will seal up decently well, at least against dust, debris, and small amounts of water. With potting of the contacts on the back, they should be decently weatherproof and robust.

plus they're cheap and easily available


----------



## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

This is what I`m using. They`re just like the four-pin "boat trailer" plugs, but only two pins. Snug fit, though they don`t lock.
I bought them for $3.00/pair at a local electronic supply shop, but I see they`re available online.
https://www.altex.com/product_info.php?products_id=9072


----------



## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

You need a grommet/oring/seal between the two halves. If you don't water will leak in there.


----------



## Bryguy17 (May 19, 2007)

well of course you do, but for me at least, I'm not planning on having my light get wet on a regular basis. only should happen to be raining or start raining during a race. plus, a few layers of tightly held heat-shrink should be enough to keep water at bay for at least a little while


----------



## crux (Jan 10, 2004)

What makes deans a good choice for cycling applications:

- Cheap
- Avaliable
- High current handeling capability
- Solid connection (no flickering lights)
- Will not fail in the event of a short circut

Would of thought that battery technology would of made its way into tthe discussion by now. With LEDs and all the homebrew methods people have built recently, the Lithium batteries have only been on a few lights and some I do not think I would want on my back. The image or video of the laptop fires have been around for a while and have yet to steer industry and some homebrews away from Li-Ion for this application, infact they are embracing the metal canned Li-ion cells as a standard now that the price is comming down. Bad news is that when these packs vent they normally do so with flame:madmax:. Water and rain have been mentioned a few times here and if H2O is a consideration for the connector what about the chemical reaction between Lithium metal and water? Don't think you want one of the packs on your back when this happens. Li-poly is a safer choice and lighter option as well only down side is the initial investment. A Li-poly can take quite a bit more physical abuse before failure and when your throwing it in your pack I think this would be an advantage. Sure if you puncture the cell you might have an issue, but the cell will swell up indicating a problem before it will burst into flame (normally).

Of course if you burst into flames please post some photos of the event as I am positive it would be impressive. Please do not get hurt in the process.


----------



## Bryguy17 (May 19, 2007)

crux said:


> What makes deans a good choice for cycling applications:
> 
> - Cheap
> - Avaliable
> ...


you're right on the deans. but on batteries, i must disagree. In my experience, lipos are equally if not more volatile than normal li-ion batteries. Mostly because the available lipo cells lack a solid casing like li-ion that makes them easier to puncture. plus they are much more sensitive to over-discharging and over charging.

as far as water goes, a wet battery is a bad one, but you shouldn't expect to see an explosion of lithium and water reacting. It just doesn't happen (I've crashed rc aircraft into lakes without seeing a big bang. plus, lithium is the LEAST reactive of the alkali metals when exposed to water. sodium, potassium, different story)

Personally, I don't mind using the lipos on my setup because i know how to deal with them and what their limits are. I'm not like most people, and it takes a good deal of experience to know how to deal with a wayward lipo that people definitely shouldn't figure out on the trail. All my packs will be protected, sealed, and padded, which should be sufficient for our purposes. I have lipo packs that are more beat up than my beater bikes and they keep on chuggin.

If you really do no want to deal with lipo or li-ion, i recommend loking into A123 packs. They come in at a slightly lower voltage than lipos, and are only available in 2100 mAh. They are, however far mroe robust than either li-ion or lipo formulations, and have a longer life, higher potential charge rate (most people wont be able to realize this advantage though) and a stupid high discharge rate (100C spec iirc, also useless for a light build)

http://www.a123systems.com/#/products/p1 for anyone interested


----------



## crux (Jan 10, 2004)

I fly RC as well and your right if you crash into a lake the pack will not explode. From conducting testing for Mil applications and UN certification on the Li-ion and Li-poly packs, they can be dangerous. Try to charge a lipo off a standard charger and chances are you will not be to happy with the results. Also if you have a li-ion and dent the casing the battery could fail. When a Lithium cell fails if fails in a short condition vs open for most other cell types. When you start to heat up the cells they will create hydrogen gas. Heat source + hydrogen + battery = unhappy individual. 

Now it is true that li-poly are fairly soft which makes them easy to puncture. Of course using a bare pack in this configuration would not be the best idea. I have always wrapped my cells in kevlar or CF depending upon the usage and what I am looking to do with them. Now I can drop a knife point onto my cells without fear of damage. Smash the pack against a rock and the point load is distributed. :thumbsup:


----------



## Bryguy17 (May 19, 2007)

never thought of composite wrapping them, or at least making a composite case for them. was thinking more along the lines of a neoprene wrap with solid plastic plates in between the sleeve and the battery for puncture resistance.


----------



## plasticmann (May 7, 2006)

Bryguy17 said:


> If you really do no want to deal with lipo or li-ion, i recommend loking into A123 packs. They come in at a slightly lower voltage than lipos, and are only available in 2100 mAh. They are, however far mroe robust than either li-ion or lipo formulations, and have a longer life, higher potential charge rate (most people wont be able to realize this advantage though) and a stupid high discharge rate (100C spec iirc, also useless for a light build)
> 
> http://www.a123systems.com/#/products/p1 for anyone interested


I did some googling on these. Exciting technology. Only downside is they are relatively large (approx 26cm dia x 65cm). 3.3V 2300mAh. Advantages is they are light, discharge rate is high, (one main reason why the RC guys like them), you can charge them in 15mins if you have the gear, and they take abuse.

Out of interest I did a quick comparision of them to Sub C NiMH. 1.2V 4500mAH. Cost per watt/hr almost half that of the A123, (based on pulling the A123's out of a DeWalt 36V pack), watt/hr per kg not that much more for the Sub C and power per area not that much higher either for the A123. With the relatively low price on a 4500mAh Sub C packs now days these are a real alternative if Li-ion is not your thing.


----------



## Bryguy17 (May 19, 2007)

quite true. They really are only for someone who wants to be able to say they use a lithium technology without actually having to deal with most of the drawbacks of using lithium. At least when it comes to bike lights, its like using carbon for the sake of using carbon. kinda pointless from a functional standpoint.


----------



## crux (Jan 10, 2004)

Bryguy17 said:


> quite true. They really are only for someone who wants to be able to say they use a lithium technology without actually having to deal with most of the drawbacks of using lithium. At least when it comes to bike lights, its like using carbon for the sake of using carbon. kinda pointless from a functional standpoint.


I really hate to say this, but that is the material that we had just laying around. Yards and yards of carbon.


----------



## Bryguy17 (May 19, 2007)

funny now that you mention it...i have a yard of carbon right here, and I intend to make it into a shell for my custom light. Of course, I can say that its adding volume to the light for electronics without adding too much weight, but really it is just a carbon for the sake of carbon thing


----------



## hidtechnologies (Feb 19, 2008)

*conxall*

I n ow use the conxall conectors for my lights.
Try Clarke and Severne electronics in Hornsby NSW.
Daniel
HIDTechnologies



Coldass said:


> Thanks - the 5 weeks lead time quoted scares me. The Conxall connectors do look like the 'best-of-breed' potential light connectors. Are they overkill? Perhaps. But it would be great if you could buy 2 or 3 pin Conxall connectors off-the-shelf for bike light use someplace.
> 
> I remember reading about using Conxall connectors in a DIY post. If you have used them perhaps you could help with some more information in this thread?


----------



## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

hidtechnologies said:


> I n ow use the conxall conectors for my lights.
> Try Clarke and Severne electronics in Hornsby NSW.
> Daniel
> HIDTechnologies


HIDTechnologies,

Thanks for the posting. The Micro-Con-X series connectors seem perfect. Good prices too. 2 bucks for a male and 4 bucks for a female connector with solder cup pins. Schweet!

Looks like Digikey.com has them instock too.


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

*Waterproof?*

I have come to the conclusion, that others have advised, that waterproofing is a mute point for bike lights at low volts.

I'll post pictures of my favorite connectors later this week - now that I have some time on them with two systems.

Also I am really liking NO CONNECTOR lights now. I have a single 3W Cree on 18650 and 1A and it is so good as a backup. I am convinced the future best connector is no connector.... Go figure.


----------



## Guest (Apr 23, 2008)

Coldass, I agree. That's why I think Exposure lights are on to a good thing.


----------



## Bryank930 (Jun 12, 2006)

Why bother with all the fancy connectors. Get the deans Ultra plugs and be done with it. I use them on ALL of my R/C vehicles. How many of the manufacturers of all those other connectors listed can say this:



> The industry standard in high performance connectors. Rated number one by R/C Car Action, The Ultra Plug actually has less resistance, including the solder joints, than an equivalent length piece of 12 gauge wire.


Less resistance = longer runtimes.

http://www.wsdeans.com/products/plugs/ultra_plug.html

I am not in any way affiliated with W.S. Deans. I just believe in a good product.


----------



## Bryguy17 (May 19, 2007)

yes, dean's are very good products. they are quite unnecessary for low voltage/low current applications though. I got some of the trailtech connectors from batteryspace and they are very nice


----------



## Harpoon (Jun 5, 2008)

Sorry to bounce an old thread up, but is it possible to get the Trailtech connectors in the UK? I was going to order some from Batteryspace but 10 or 20 USD of connectors was going to cost me 55USD in delivery. Ouch.


----------



## Harpoon (Jun 5, 2008)

Couldn't find any Trailtech connectors but I worked out I could get a pile of the bits to make up the AMP Superseal connectors from Farnell for £20 delivered. The proper crimp tool is a bit pricey at £115 so a dab of solder and my pliers will be used! They came yesterday and they do look like a nice quality item.

Strangely, Farnell don't sell the rubber outer boots. RS do but they don't seem to sell all the connector parts so it'll be a DIY shrink seal I think.


----------



## dazzat3 (May 4, 2008)

Coldass said:


> What about Brad Harrison Nano-Change (M8) connectors?
> 
> "Brad Harrison Nano-Change (M8) connectors and cordsets offer the industry's broadest selection of space-saving cordsets, receptacles, inserts, splitters, and molded junction boxes. They provide rugged performance in tight spaces while minimizing downtime, maintenance and wiring time.
> 
> ...


Our dynometer at work uses these yellow 90 deg connectors but I would have to get in touch with the manufacturer of the dyno to get more details...they do look trick though, the images don't do them justice.

I have had success using mini deans myself from DX...they are a little agricultural but reliable.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10788


----------



## Citizen Kane (Aug 12, 2007)

I managed to get my amp connectors from RS. These are the part numbers I used, best check to make sure.

Socket shell 314-1198
Plug shell 314-1255
Crimps socket 314-1334
Crimps plug 314-1312
Grommets 314-1176

I used a standard £10 crimp tool for uninsulated crimps, works just fine.


----------



## popoff (Dec 4, 2007)

*Astro Fligth Zero loss*

these are pretty comparable to the deans ultra plug, with a simple shroud which would suit bike type use. solder joint, no crimping, and you can buy additional connectors in either gender for extra batteries or chargers. i've used them quite a bit and they work well. just grease up the mating surfaces with dielectric grease, and pot the wire entrances with rtv, and you'll be as reliable as you can be short of heavy, expensive mil spec stuff.

http://www.astroflight.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=39

Mike


----------



## connspec (Mar 11, 2009)

I am not sure whether these informations will be useful to you all. I have seen motorsport and waterproof connectors in www.souriau.com and I found some useful industrial-connectors in http://www.souriau-industrial.com for my project.


----------



## HuffyPuffy (Jun 9, 2008)

Is there a good online source for the Hirschmann M8 connectors?

I just checked out their catalog and they have some very nice looking panel mounts as well for this series.


----------



## frozen (Aug 29, 2008)

http://www.rapidonline.com/netalogue/specs/23-1416.pdf
maybe?


----------



## womble (Sep 8, 2006)

Beating on the dead horse that is waterproofness- I've tried running a 14V halogen system (not the batteries- just the body and cabling) submerged in a bathtub for half an hour. It was fine, and has remained fine for over a year.


----------



## tamen00 (Mar 10, 2004)

OK, I have read through this thread and countless others looking for a good connector... I am currently using deans and they work fantastic, however I need to make some lights for some other people and the deans look kind of hokey... nevermind they work super awesome, they just do not look that great.

Does anyone know a good source that is not too expensive for inline connectors that snap together and have a good high quality flexible cable?? Something like what Dinotte uses, or nightrider, or even the trailtech connectors... battery-station has the trailtech, but they are pretty expensive... I know, asking for the holy grail of connectors here....


----------



## tobymack (Nov 12, 2008)

well this is what I use - not waterproof but small and good quality with a nice flexible cable:
Inline socket..... (just chop off the plug)
inline plug with long cable and a handy little velcro tidy.... (and it comes with a free 5.7V 800mA power adaptor )

One of the advantages of Nokia changing its charger plug size is that there are plenty of these lying around unused after people have upgraded their mobiles. :thumbsup:


----------



## darkendlight88 (Jan 20, 2009)

i decided to use a switchcraft EN3 series connectors on my light


----------



## connspec (Mar 11, 2009)

Visit M series connecotrs
Visit in-line solution and datasheets
Also try Industrial connectors


----------



## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

How about those connectors:








They are cheap - $3 for a set with 1m cable, waterproof, but bulky - 21mm in diameter.

They are sold/used by the installers of neon lights.


----------



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

connspec said:


> Visit M series connecotrs
> Visit in-line solution and datasheets
> Also try Industrial connectors


Are you something to do with the said sites Connspec

This is what I would like as a perfect solution

female is to mount in the light casing so must be 100% waterproof and not let any water inside the case
it needs to be very small IE 8 mm hole 
the male from the battery must be a good secure fit and not jump out with vibration.

there also needs to be a matching inline female for the charger .

and be inexpensive


----------



## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

troutie-mtb said:


> and be inexpensive


That will never be the case with military or industrial connectors. Unless the Chinese start to make them.

One set of M8 connectors costs $30.


----------



## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

Speaking of cheap industrial connectors, I have found this:
















These are connectors for sensors, the price for 1 set is $7, for 10 - $50


----------



## frozen (Aug 29, 2008)

look for Hirose HR30-6R-6PD

https://dkc1.digikey.com/us/en/tod/Hirose/HR30_NoAudio/HR30_NoAudio.html


----------



## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

OK, another set of cheap and small M8 connectors, at Farnell this time:
http://export.farnell.com/tyco-electronics/1838838-2/panel-mount-m8-male-4pos/dp/1413705
http://export.farnell.com/tyco-electronics/1838284-3/cable-m8-female-4pos-str/dp/1413678

14 pounds a pair! (but with 5 m of cable)


----------



## Village (Sep 8, 2008)

womble said:


> Beating on the dead horse that is waterproofness- I've tried running a 14V halogen system (not the batteries- just the body and cabling) submerged in a bathtub for half an hour. It was fine, and has remained fine for over a year.


How did you terminate the connection into the light housing?

It seems like the only real water danger to a lighting system is if water were to seep into the housing and short out the driver circuit or LED pcb. There are basically two options for weatherproofing, right? Use a nice waterproof socket on the housing, or use a waterproof cable gland to create a short cable dongle with an ordinary Deans or coaxial DC power connector on the other end. I'm personally leaning towards creating a dongle with Deans connector and use interchangable extension cables and charging cables of different lengths, all using Deans. Though, I may use Trail-Tech cables on the light side just for a more professional look and secure fitting (for helmet lighting).


----------



## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

Deans are very hard to pull apart. That's their drawback.


----------



## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

So, in conclusion what are the best connectors? The Tycos look good but very expensive... anyone tried the Hirose HR30 connectors?


----------



## womble (Sep 8, 2006)

There is no conclusion... this is DIY, after all...


----------



## frozen (Aug 29, 2008)

sergio_pt said:


> So, in conclusion what are the best connectors? The Tycos look good but very expensive... anyone tried the Hirose HR30 connectors?


I do, and they are very sweet, I think. However, have not been catched with rain yet.


----------



## Walt Dizzy (Aug 18, 2003)

*I like these*

from AllElectronics:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-...NDUCTOR-WATERPROOF-CONNECTORS-18-AWG/-/1.html

-They are cheap
-They cannot be reversed
-The mechanical connection is friction instead of latch, but I've not had one come apart from vibration. They are so light that my guess is they will prove to be reliable.

The distributor claims they are waterproof. I have not tested that claim, but I doubt it. As others have pointed out, waterproof is not an essential characteristic for a bike light connection. My guess is they will eventually corrode due to moisture. At $1.50 each, so what?

Walt


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

sergio_pt said:


> So, in conclusion what are the best connectors? The Tycos look good but very expensive... anyone tried the Hirose HR30 connectors?


I have concluded that the best connectors are NO connectors. ..........However you rate what is out there, nothing beats no cables and plugs and all-in-one units. I am yet to see a DIY in this style (AKA Exposure like) - perhaps with a plug in and out battery pack.

That said, where they have to be used I like teeni-mini Din style connectors above all else and there are some impressive alternatives in this tread (though I discount the need for excessive waterproofness). I am yet to find them at a low enough price (say from a DX) to discount the cheap, bulky, alternatives available.


----------



## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

frozen said:


> I do, and they are very sweet, I think. However, have not been catched with rain yet.


thats good to know because I have just bought a pair from farnell, male for panel placing and female plug. https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/83504.pdf

















In the driver to LED wires Im not going to use connectors because of the high current going through, the HR30 is just for the battery to driver connection, this way I hope to keep the circuit losses low.

Got a nice ITW button too 








Too bad they didnt have the miniature ones...


----------



## uoficowboy (Apr 2, 2009)

I see a number of questions regarding Lemo connectors. At work we use a lot of Lemo connectors. Think maybe $50K/year or more. We mostly use the standard B series of Lemo connectors. These are not waterproof (they're rated for IP50). They are fairly robust though. They are a push pull connector with positive retention - so they will not fall out even if you pull on the cable, but if you pull on the connector housing they come out. They are brass and quite heavy - feel very sturdy. We still manage to destroy them occasionally, but not too often. Would they work well for bikes? Well... a mated pair of them starts at about $50 in low quantities. Going up to the bigger connectors that price will go above $100 quite quickly. They do have a couple waterproof families - but those cost more and are harder to get.

So - I don't really think that they're a good match for bicycles.

My plan for my light is to use Hirose HR30 connectors. They're lightweight, small, waterproof, cheap ($15 for a mated pair), and readily available (stocked at Digi-Key).


----------



## flappytango (Apr 13, 2009)

Coldass said:


> I really like the range and options offered by Lemo... Look at this...
> 
> http://www.lemo.com/index.jsp
> View attachment 327110
> ...


lemo are the highest quality connectors. there are watertight and vacuum tight fittings available. they can be found at mouser farnel etc but the cheapest i have seen is

http://www.econnek.com/index.cfm?event=ViewProductCategory&CategoryID=63

here is the one i am using in my project


----------



## uoficowboy (Apr 2, 2009)

flappytango said:


> lemo are the highest quality connectors. there are watertight and vacuum tight fittings available. they can be found at mouser farnel etc but the cheapest i have seen is
> 
> http://www.econnek.com/index.cfm?event=ViewProductCategory&CategoryID=63
> 
> here is the one i am using in my project


Econnek sells rip off Lemo connectors. As in - they're not Lemos - they're copies of Lemos. I don't like supporting business that rip other people's designs off like that, myself.

The ones you linked to are rip offs of the B series - which is IP50 rated - which means dust protected but no water protection whatsoever.


----------



## flappytango (Apr 13, 2009)

uoficowboy said:


> Econnek sells rip off Lemo connectors. As in - they're not Lemos - they're copies of Lemos. I don't like supporting business that rip other people's designs off like that, myself.
> 
> The ones you linked to are rip offs of the B series - which is IP50 rated - which means dust protected but no water protection whatsoever.


thanks uficowboy,

i did not mean to infer that the ones econnek is selling are the top rated lemos (ie waterproof and vacuum) and i have not not yet ordered from econnek.. the connectors i have are salvaged from nucluear counting equipment where may experience with them originates.

have you purchased from econnek? and are you saying they are not lemo? or just the lower rated lemo?

if teh


----------



## uoficowboy (Apr 2, 2009)

flappytango said:


> thanks uficowboy,
> 
> i did not mean to infer that the ones econnek is selling are the top rated lemos (ie waterproof and vacuum) and i have not not yet ordered from econnek.. the connectors i have are salvaged from nucluear counting equipment where may experience with them originates.
> 
> ...


If you look at their website:


http://econnek.com/index.cfm?event=About-eConnek said:


> Product offerings include metal circular and plastic circular connectors intermatable to REDEL®, LEMO® and ODU® connectors*. Every REDEL®, ODU® and LEMO® compatible connector meets the high quality standards set by these name brands, but at a fraction of the price. Our replacement medical connector parts and medical device connectors are designed to work with any brand-name manufacturers devices.


So they sell compatible connectors. Not Lemo brand. But they're like Lemo brand connectors.

The part you took a picture of looks like a FGG.0B shell. The part number for the shell is cut in to the shell right next to the red keying dot. That would make it a B series, which is only IP50 rated. It's probably good enough for your headlight - but be careful as these things have no water protection and it's quite easy for them to get water in them.


----------



## flappytango (Apr 13, 2009)

ok you know your lemos. i did not see that they were selling knockoffs before but that explains why they are so much cheaper...


----------



## ca_rider (Feb 3, 2008)

http://kojaycat.com/amp superseal connectors.htm has "2 WAY SUPERSEAL WATERPROOF CONNECTOR KIT" at a cost of "£2.65
SALE".


----------



## SMSAlmer (Sep 17, 2008)

Just found these, look very similar. 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...ec5QQitemZ370194804421QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts

Promising, I think.


----------



## bncrshr77 (Jun 19, 2007)

Same conclusion here. Do an ebay search for....weather pack connector.... and you will find tons of options at cheap prices!!!


----------



## IWantanFBody (Apr 19, 2008)

bncrshr77 said:


> Same conclusion here. Do an ebay search for....weather pack connector.... and you will find tons of options at cheap prices!!!


I second that. Weather Packs are used widely on commercial vehicles for connecting a wide selection of components. Especially lights. I have dealt with them before and they are very easy to use and seal great.


----------



## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

What about these? Would they come apart too easily?


----------



## OldMTBfreak (Apr 8, 2006)

Two wire trailer connector. They are good sized, with fairly large size wire. I don't think vibration is a problem with them. They aren't 100% waterproof, but I didn't have any problem with them.


----------



## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

PinkRobe, I used to use the SAE Black/Red connectors, you show in your photo, on all my lights and battery packs.

They are a very solid connection, but they have several drawbacks when they start to age.
I now use the 15amp Anderson Powerpole connectors shown in the top image.
The connectors below the Anderson's are Chinese knocks offs of the deans.
The Deans have no strain relief and so it's easy to break off a wire after wiggling them about on a bike.
adding heat shrink to the solder connection is not much of a strain relief.
The Deans also do not have much surface area to grab hold of.
The Deans are better in RC applications where things do not wiggle about much and strain relief is not that much of an issue.

I love the Andersons so far and they have none of the problems that the SAE connectors had.


----------



## zen bicycle (Mar 23, 2007)

+1 for conxall

US Digikey part numbers

SC1203-ND CONN SOCKET CABLE END MICRO 2PIN For plugging into panel mount from battery Male

SC1210-ND CONN PIN CABLE-CABLE MICRO 2PIN for Battery charger dongle Female

SC1206-ND CONN PIN PANEL MOUNT MICRO 2PIN panel mount Female

Small inexpensive and weather tight.


----------



## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

Is batteryspace the only place to buy trail tech connectors?
I'd like to get a pair of these cable connectors, but I prefer to buy from Europe and avoid customs taxes etc...
Is there any online store in Europe selling them?









thanks


----------



## ortelius (Dec 6, 2007)

Try /www.trailtechproducts.co.uk. Though, I was only able to find female part of the connector there, no male part.


----------



## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

ortelius said:


> Try /www.trailtechproducts.co.uk. Though, I was only able to find female part of the connector there, no male part.


 damn but if trailtech makes them why do they only list the female connector?
They are in the UK, supposedly they are the manufacturers of the connectors I don't understand why a USA webstore is listing them all...


----------



## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

Connector/Adaptor: One Pair Trailtech Coaxis Lockable Connector with 8' Coil Cord	CN-TT-WP001	2	$9.95	$19.90
Subtotal: $19.90 
Discounts: -$1.00 
*Shipping & Handling: $70.60 *
Tax: $0.00

*Order Total: $89.50*

*$90 to order 2 pairs of connectors from USA to PT??!  :eekster: :madmax:*
then add another $150 for import duties.

come on....


----------



## redbeans (Dec 15, 2005)

I'm a little late weighing in on the threaded connectors, but M12 might be pretty big on a compact light. Most of the folks that make the M12s also make M8 (Brad Harrison, Phoenix, Tyco, Turck, etc.). I used Turck cords and receptacles on my lights, and it worked out well. The receptacle on my helmet light works with snap type connectors and threaded connectors. I use a snap connector for my helmet so my head won't get ripped off if the cable snags a tree. Anyway, here are some pictures of the receptacle and the cable connected to it on two of my lights, so you can see the scale.


From Bike light


From Bike light


From Bike light


----------



## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

nice
I'm looking to find inline cable connectors to avoid having a 'stiff post' attached to the light housing that might crack, instead I'll use a cable directly from the housing to make things flexible then a trailtech connector in the wire.

Anyone has some extra trailtech connectors wanting to sell?

I could use a pair of these TT in-line connectors for my next project. I'm mostly interested in the waterproof and locking features of the connectors! Or is there any other cable connectors that you would recommend for a bike light?

thanks


----------



## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Well, I'll probably kick myself for revealing my "secret" source for connectors, but I have been using extension cables similar to this for "inline" connectors.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-TURCK-CONNE...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5d26daff45

Double check the part number on the Turck website to verify the cables ends will mate.


----------



## Harpoon (Jun 5, 2008)

sergio_pt said:


> nice
> I'm looking to find inline cable connectors to avoid having a 'stiff post' attached to the light housing that might crack, instead I'll use a cable directly from the housing to make things flexible then a trailtech connector in the wire.
> 
> Anyone has some extra trailtech connectors wanting to sell?
> ...


Have a look at the AMP SuperSealconnectors. IP67 rated and locking.


----------



## frozen (Aug 29, 2008)

Hirose HR30 are small, light, easy to connect and disconnect, waterproof and available. I am very satisfied with them :thumbsup:

http://www.hirose-connectors.com/connectors/H205SeriesGaiyou.aspx?c1=HR30&c3=3


----------



## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

thanks for the replies. 
Didn't know the turck connectors, they look cool! Might take a deeper look.
I have SuperSeal connectors, but wanted something not too bulky and more slick. 
Also have a pair of Hirose connectors on another light they got very expensive to order from USA.


----------



## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

I just buy the Dinonnte extension harness. Cut it in 1/2 and splice into my battery pack with heatstrink and such... The other end then goes to the light via a grommet.


----------



## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

Nice idea cheers, but why are this small things so expensive? oh damn.  What kind of connector is the dinotte? DC type?


----------



## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

sergio_pt said:


> Nice idea cheers, but why are this small things so expensive?


Industrial & military equipment manufacturers don't care about prices. The cheapest connectors I was able to find were priced at around $10 a pair.


----------



## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

If anyone is interested I will have trailtech connectors for sale for half the price of batteryspace. :thumbsup: no more rippoffs


----------



## GlowBoy (Jan 3, 2004)

pinkrobe said:


> What about these? Would they come apart too easily?


Those look exactly like the connectors from batteryspace.com that I've been using for several years now. They will not pull apart under normal use (you'd have to put some monster strain on the wires), but they pull apart easily enough by hand. And they're plenty waterproof: I'm going into (I think) my 5th Pacific NW winter with them and have never had any problem with them whatsoever. Bombproof.


----------



## odtexas (Oct 2, 2008)

Those should look just like the connectors from Batteryspace. The images are hot linked from Batteryspace directly. 
Just right click the image,pull up properties, and here's what you get.

https://www.batteryspace.com/ProductImages/connectors/4415.jpg
https://www.batteryspace.com/ProductImages/batteries/TT_Con01.jpg

Maybe consider getting a generic source for the photos instead of hot linking from the people you are under cutting.:thumbsup:


----------



## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Those connectors are called SAE connectors.
You can find them on many motorcycle and RV web sites.
They are used to hook up all kinds of powered devices

I used them for many years on my lights and other devices and they work great.
Eventually, they corrode inside the female barrel.
The wires break strand by strand where the connector meets the wire, from wiggling about.

The only other niggles I had with the SAE connectors is 
The color coding on the ends gets messed up when you use one end and have an end left over. You cannot choose to connect Black and Red how you want.

Also the wire lengths are not adjustable, you are stuck with what you have.
The wires are not heavy enough gauge for some uses
The wires are not zipped together

I now use the 15amp Anderson PowerPoles and like them much better than the SAE connectors.









I converted every device I own from the SAE to the PowerPoles
You can assemble them very quickly
You can cut the connectors off and put on new connectors by just installing new terminals inside the Red/Black housings.
If you use Red/Black wire, the color coding is always the same.
There are many more cool advantages to the andersons.

There is even a little clip that clips the connectors together so there is no way to pull them apart until you pull the clip

I have some pictures and info here on the Andersons
https://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/BikesLights27.htm

Edit: I just realized I had already blurbed about the Andersons further up the page. Sorry


----------



## ortelius (Dec 6, 2007)

Up until now I've only used standard 5.5/2.5 mm DC connectors in my DIY lights. Like this:








But they turned out to be too unreliable and too easy to pull apart. So I was in constant search for more reliable, yet still cheap connectors. I've always liked the connectors that Lupine is using on their lights. But they looked totally proprietary and didn't find them anywhere to be sold. Until someone here in this thread mentioned that they are standard Molex connectors that can be bought in many electronic shops. And they turned out to be very cheap, too. Here:









Male and female part snap together nicely and are secured by plastic latch. Pins are simply crimped to the wires, no soldering required. Add some heat shrink tube and you've got quite decent strain relief.

















Less than 2 US$ for male/female pair.

More pictures *here*


----------



## symbology (Sep 17, 2009)

This is my source for most of my waterproof connectors.

https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/SM-MT/sm-mt.html


----------



## matthewm (Mar 29, 2009)

francois said:


> On the shootout, my favorite connectors were these ones from Dinotte.
> - they were the easiest to connect and disconnect. they don't need to be aligned or screwed on.
> - they form a very nice, waterproof seal when connected
> - very sturdy, no accidental disconnects.
> ...


I have been looking for something like this everywhere, but I cant seems to find a source (cheaper than Dinotte)


----------



## matthewm (Mar 29, 2009)

Has anyone used these before?

https://www.newark.com/sure-seal/120-8552-100/circular-connector/dp/19C0675?whydiditmatch=rel_1&matchedProduct=120-8552-100&Ntt=120-8552-100










And receptacle.

https://www.newark.com/sure-seal/120-8551-100/circular-connector/dp/19C0676?Ntt=120-8551-100

I think these may need a custom crimping tool, but overall the size looks small.


----------



## Ericofmaine (Sep 28, 2008)

This may be overly simple, but I converted my old Performance Viewpoint lights from the connector that came on the battery / handlebar light to some simple RCA (stereo) plugs I got at Radio $haft. I've been running these for 10+ years now. They're a good friction fit. I do 24 hour racing and these have endured a few torrential downpours and one endo into a mud pit and they're still ticking!


----------



## mtb_robs-x (Dec 13, 2009)

never ending story; but its important.
currently there is no standard, and we do need one, at least a base line.

the trailtech connectors are good, but single source, propriotary, 
you need to mailorder them, can't get them in a local store, and cable length is limited.
so the 2.1mm 5.5mm is still cheap, what is good, and others are available.
here we go, the Magicshine, is not compatible with it, thought its, 2.1 5.5mm ...

as such I vote for the connector it's available to you,
tamiya , think, within 50 miles , or city reach, should be able to by one, in an RC store.
the old style nimh 7.2V battery packs are also a good start, and they already have them.
smaller, the new mini tamiya, fit the bill for helmet lights too.
Lupine, the mini molex, is an oldy but goodie, small, cheap, except for the crimp tool, expensive,... and worse, not available !!!
car connectors,...another vote for deutsch connectors, also the super seal , should be available, big, and reliable, waterproof,...

oh, cudos, for the hirose HR30, IP67 is good enough, they are small, just enough current, and push-pull,.... good for you gloves, but price is high, aka over $10 a piece, small to solder, argh,... still very nice, but not very available.
switchcraft, now, here is a good company,.. the EN3 are pushing in, brings IP68, real waterproof, not just splash proof, and secure,... hmm here we go, might be to secure,
since it definitely won't come loose. good on the bike, maybe, but helmet , NO. 
and twisting connector locks, with loose cables, might need 3 hands, but they do have panel mounts, and you can pressure clean your bike, with the battery attached, that is if you light will do.
real oldy,.... the good old microphone cable/connector, big but available, similar , the cannon 3 pin, aka solder station, and military ones, alsoe with screw/twist lock, again availability and price, if you hope on your bike, ride all over town and can't find it, it's not really available , so it can't become a standard yet.
what alternative,.... looking at binder 720,620, since they are cheaper, aka $5+ under $10, and snap in, so they do come loose, think, that feature , safety , might be good on a bike, otherwise, do like the push-pull , one-handed operation, to be logical. 
the snap ones are used on electronic instruments, push / snap done, pull comes off, done, color coded, multipin,... they do have 5-10 pounds , so they do hold, they are limited to IP67, still nice.
ultimate,... IP69K, but unless micro, those are monster size, and monster price, military grade, and super expensive, never mind, you/me can't get them ( let me know where I can order them) 
oh, deans, no please, to hard, and you need shrink tubing,... more things, sure if they are available to you, no 1 reason, and you got shrink/solder gun,....
oh one more, for the variate , bukaneer,... IP68, 
and power poles, no, do have a load, good for battery connections, but not for cables, usable, but somewhat clunky, and need a crimper, and still not locally available,...

so, what now,... you got an ms, or a trailtech battery, here you go, 2.1mm 5.5mm ,
it's a start ! for the better once, you'd need to go the mile, hope, I can remedy this a little, still doing some more testing,...

one more, sometimes space is limited on the bike, lamp , or battery, 
so right angle connector option, be nice, but most do not have it.
oh, forgot,... yeah, no , or one less connector, those bottles with the pig tail, where it meets 1/2 way,...simple, good. but I don't like pig-tails,... not on my light or battery,
that's what a cable is for. those pigtails simplify the design, sealing and cost for the manufacturers , sure, .. would you like a pigtail on your laptop ? you won't have to search for the cable ,.... no, so on the long run, do think pigtails have to go, but it's so easy to seal a light housing with a grommet, and cheaper, so there is the uphill battle.
HR30, is short and sweet, EN3 more rugged , lemo, original, the caddy, solid and heavy,
and on your new shiny bike a bouncing metal connector, might not be what you had in mind,.... so cheaper, plastic onces or probably better, then super duper metal ,...
sorry for the writing style. keep it posted, thanks, Rob


----------



## Itess (Feb 22, 2009)

mtb_robs-x said:


> never ending story; but its important.
> currently there is no standard, and we do need one, at least a base line.


I am going to try these ones: XT60 Connectors Male/Female (5 pairs)
It's a pity that they are backordered. Patiently waiting for stock...


----------



## fre3ud (Apr 29, 2008)

These seem cheap from RS

http://docs-asia.origin.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/00cb/0900766b800cbc19.pdf


----------



## Itess (Feb 22, 2009)

fre3ud said:


> These seem cheap from RS
> 
> http://docs-asia.origin.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/00cb/0900766b800cbc19.pdf


Thanks! Ordered them too


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

ortelius said:


> Until someone here in this thread mentioned that they are standard Molex connectors that can be bought in many electronic shops. And they turned out to be very cheap, too. Here:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Do you know the part number/Molex model for these by any chance?

Edit: Sorry found the link to part number way back in post #12. Should read the whole thread!!!


----------



## matthewm (Mar 29, 2009)

Coldass said:


> Do you know the part number/Molex model for these by any chance?


Molex part numbers available from Mouser.com (These are the black version with gold plated brass 18-24AWG pins)

Plugs

03-06-7023

http://au.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=03-06-7023virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-03-06-7023

03-06-6023

http://au.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=03-06-6023virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-03-06-6023

Pins

02-06-6102

http://au.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=02-06-6102virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-02-06-6102

02-06-5102

http://au.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=02-06-5102virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-02-06-5102


----------



## Coldass (Nov 23, 2005)

matthewm said:


> Molex part numbers available from Mouser.com (These are the black version with gold plated brass 18-24AWG pins)
> 
> Plugs
> 
> ...


Excellent. Just what I wanted. Thanks.


----------



## mtb_robs-x (Dec 13, 2009)

don't forget the crimp tool !? $250-300 
for the molex connectors

just checked on the hirose HR30 connector crimp tool $1500 , autsch !?
ok, some you can get in solder,...

molex, nice, more options,... mini tamiya, easier, 
power poles, ... super easy, clunker, don't recommend for external

newcomer, xt60, need shrink tube, and no lock


----------



## ortelius (Dec 6, 2007)

mtb_robs-x said:


> don't forget the crimp tool !? $250-300
> for the molex connectors


Nah, no need to exaggerate.  For couple of connectors you definitely don't need to invest in special crimping tool. You can crimp the pins to the wires just fine with some narrow pliers...


----------



## .40AET (Jun 7, 2007)

ortelius said:


> Nah, no need to exaggerate.  For couple of connectors you definitely don't need to invest in special crimping tool. You can crimp the pins to the wires just fine with some narrow pliers...


I picked up a Molex crimping tool for $20 when I bought the first set of connectors. I'm sure the expensive ones are fancy.


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

Ortelius,

If you don't mind my asking, what kind of connector is that on the bottom of your light. I was looking at fabbing something like the Bastid or Tesla mounts out of flexane (cool cast your own rubber parts stuff ... kinda spendy), but if there's something else easily available ...



ortelius said:


>


In fact, after looking at your pictures, it looks like your mount is a Bastid or Tesla mount. How did you do that?

Like your Trustfire case battery holder. I will have to try your strain relief method on my next one. The last battery pack I made that way did a nice Sparkle and Fade when one of the wires came loose and shorted to the other terminal. That's why I always carry a spare battery pack.

My 2 cents on connectors I've tried:

Tamiya - available but sometimes balky. Buy them pre-wired if possible with nice silicone wire. These are OK: https://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9911&Product_Name=Tamiya_style_connector_Male/Female_10cm_(5pairs/bag)

Deans - work, but it always feels dodgy pulling em apart. Leave them connected for months and they kind of fuse together.

Trailtech - too expensive and over engineered. Not many sources.

SAE red/black connectors - waterproof but PVC wire, so they won't take a too much heat and flexing.

HiRose IP67 connectors - plastic, feel that they'll break in a bad fall. Stick too far out back of light.

Standard DC barrel connector - stick out too far, pull out too easily.

4 mm gold plug connectors from Hobbyking - too hard to assemble, I must be missing the trick. Nice otherwise. https://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9283&Product_Name=HXT_4mm_Gold_Connector_w/_Protector_(10pcs/set) You'll need them if you get drawn toward their cheap LiPo 3S1P 5000 mAh 15C batteries, like a moth to the flame.

Hobyking is also a good source of inexpensive small amounts of silicone wire which is very important to use inside your lighthead. PVC insulation melts around 80 C. Buzz ... ZAP! Shipping takes a couple weeks to the US.

I'm thinking of trying the powerpoles next.

Mark


----------



## Itess (Feb 22, 2009)

(about mini-sure-seal at rs)



Itess said:


> Thanks! Ordered them too


And now, when I already bought jacks, plugs and female contacts, I discovered :madmax: that RS did not have *male* contacts. :madman: :madman: :madman:

*UPDATE:* It was not trivial to find male contacts in another category.


----------



## ortelius (Dec 6, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Ortelius,
> 
> If you don't mind my asking, what kind of connector is that on the bottom of your light. I was looking at fabbing something like the Bastid or Tesla mounts out of flexane (cool cast your own rubber parts stuff ... kinda spendy), but if there's something else easily available ...
> 
> In fact, after looking at your pictures, it looks like your mount is a Bastid or Tesla mount. How did you do that?


Mark, you are right, it is genuine Tesla mount. *They sell them as spare parts*.



[email protected] said:


> Like your Trustfire case battery holder. I will have to try your strain relief method on my next one. The last battery pack I made that way did a nice Sparkle and Fade when one of the wires came loose and shorted to the other terminal. That's why I always carry a spare battery pack.


Yes, drilling 4 tiny holes through the case and leading both wires through them makes totally reliable strain relief. I even deliberately try to pull the wires out with substantial force and it survived that test perfectly.


----------



## random walk (Jan 12, 2010)

Major bump...

Is it O.K. to power the lights using the JST balance connector?

I'm looking at buying or building a 7.4V battery pack that will go inside a waterproof case. The case will have a panel-mount waterproof connector to interface to the light cable. I thought it would be convenient to solder a 2S JST male pigtail to the interior terminals of the panel-mount connector, and connect this to a standard JST female connector wired to the battery pack. That way I could disconnect the pack from the case's pigtail and charge it on a balance charger with a JST socket.

I haven't found specs for a JST connector that explicitly states the current handling capability, but I see chargers like the Turnigy Accucel-6 that charge at up to 5A.

Thanks.


----------



## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

If you like DC connectors, switchcraft makes some nice ip68 sealed/thread on connectors that run about $11 a set if you buy one or about $9 a set if you buy 10.

http://switchcraft.com/Category.aspx?Parent=944


----------



## tobymack (Nov 12, 2008)

random walk said:


> Major bump...
> 
> Is it O.K. to power the lights using the JST balance connector?
> 
> ...


Those chargers charge through the main power leads, they only use the balance connector for balancing. (meaning they connect to both the main leads and the JST connector)

However, yes, I use the balance connector for internal connection in my battery packs. I reckon they are good for at least 1A. If you plan to take much more than that then you might be pushing it.
The JST connectors are not really designed for too many connect/disconnect operations but if this only happens for charging then it is no different to their intended use.

Toby


----------



## random walk (Jan 12, 2010)

tobymack said:


> Those chargers charge through the main power leads, they only use the balance connector for balancing. (meaning they connect to both the main leads and the JST connector)
> 
> However, yes, I use the balance connector for internal connection in my battery packs. I reckon they are good for at least 1A. If you plan to take much more than that then you might be pushing it.
> The JST connectors are not really designed for too many connect/disconnect operations but if this only happens for charging then it is no different to their intended use.
> ...


Thanks Toby. I should have given a better example of a charger that charges through the JST connector, like this one.

I found the JST data sheet for the XH connectors (link) and it says 3A max using 22 AWG wire. My lights will be drawing around 2A. So I *think* I'm OK but will keep checking.


----------



## chaos lodge (Oct 15, 2009)

I have always had great success with a simple DC plug, heat shrink and... *Silicon tubing*

The heat shrink on the cable side of the plug helps seal and doubles as a strain relief. You could also add a tiny dab of silicone caulk around the cable if your seal is poor.

The Silicone tubing (get the nice, soft, supple type) not only creates a wonderful seal, it also doubles as a great way to keep those cheap DC plugs from separating.

So, unless you're going diving -this setup is waterproof for all intents and purposes. Just find a nice diameter tubing that fits snuggly and you're set 

Super inexpensive to boot!


----------



## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I just got some Magicshine extension cables from Dealextreme to play with the connectors.

I am using Trailtech cables and connectors which have a good solid seal, but the cable is quite rigid and adds significant weight to the setup.

I have to say these new DX ones seem to have a nice seal, are easier to connect and disconnect, and the cable is significantly lighter and more flexible. *Far* cheaper too.

If I was building from scratch I'd consider using these instead, unless the consensus is that the wire gauge is too small.

Chaoslodge, where did you find your silicone tubing?


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Im assuming these two products plug in to each other

















3 way IP67 M8 re-wireable r/a plug,4A
3 way IP67/68 M8 panel mount plug


----------



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Goldigger said:


> Im assuming these two products plug in to each other
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No because they are both males you need a female .The spec shows male but the pics show female


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> No because they are both males you need a female .The spec shows male but the pics show female


I never noticed that, i just looked at the pics..cheers


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> No because they are both males you need a female .The spec shows male but the pics show female


Ok found the female version, but only in stock in a 4 way
https://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-...onnectors/M8-Straight-cable-sockets/72786/kw/
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=2311239&cm_vc=av_uk









Panel mount
https://www.rapidonline.com/1/1/8369-m8-front-mounting-appliance-connector.html
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/search...tml?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=290-6376









I think its a bit on the big side









found a smaller one, according to the pdf its IP65-68 diamter 9.7mm length 33mm
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0282899
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0282928


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Hirschmann catologue.. page 10 for the E series
http://www.northern-connectors.co.u...dustrial-connectors-master-catalogue-2004.pdf


----------



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

GD

I have those panel mount connectors. As well as the matching moulded cord 
With either right angle or straight plugs 

You are welcome to a couple at what they cost me plus postage 

Also some field connectable females for the charger cable .

They are very nice .


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> GD
> 
> I have those panel mount connectors. As well as the matching moulded cord
> With either right angle or straight plugs
> ...


If there the last image I posted of the smaller cable connector I'd be very interested.. my local rs has nothing in stock..
Conrad Have A Hugh range of the hirschmann connectors..but I'm not sure which ones are compatible with the m8 panel mounts.

Let me know what they cost You please and ill send You the paypal..
:thumbsup:

Thanks

edit: are yours 3 or 4 way?


----------



## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

Ofroad'bent said:


> I just got some Magicshine extension cables from Dealextreme to play with the connectors.
> 
> I am using Trailtech cables and connectors which have a good solid seal, but the cable is quite rigid and adds significant weight to the setup.
> 
> ...


I checked out the Trailtech ones from Batteryspace, but the total came to $20 for a set, so I bought a 1m MS extension cable from DX for $3.50 and cut it ~1/3 of the way along. Short bit goes into the light (right angled, silicone sealed and strain-relieved), long bit goes to the battery. I'm pretty impressed - I used Tamiya connectors before and the MS cable route was so much easier. I've read that the centre pin can loosen, leading to an intermittent connection, but time will tell.

Downside - shipping from DX can be erratic at best. My 1st cable for my light came within 3wks or so, the 2nd cable from my bro's light (Xmas present) has been 5wks and counting, so I'm having to use a Nokia charger cable and spare female plug. Yer pays yer money...


----------



## savagemann (Jan 14, 2008)

If you are gonna use the MS connectors, you may as well order them from GeoMan. It'll be a bit more, but at least you'll get them this year.....or century......or ever.


----------



## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

savagemann said:


> If you are gonna use the MS connectors, you may as well order them from GeoMan. It'll be a bit more, but at least you'll get them this year.....or century......or ever.


true and I did consider it, but if you include postage they're 3x the price. For some, quicker delivery may be worth it, but it wasn't for me. As it is, I'll just use the delayed connector on another light.


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I was near my local RS today so i popped in and ordered some of the below, pick them up on monday. Will let you know my thoughts.


----------



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Did you order the retaining nuts also as they dont come with them .


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Yes, a bag of twenty..


----------



## JezV (Oct 31, 2009)

I like the look of these IP68 connectors from RS. Shame about the price. Also there's no inline female connector that I can see


















https://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=7051519
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=7051525


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> Did you order the retaining nuts also as they dont come with them .


Hi Chris, I picked up the cable and plug socket today..they are nice and small..
Did you bother cutting the M8 x 0.5 thread? 
I dont have a tap that size and they dont seem to be readily available...and at a reasonable price..
cheapest i can find is £16.30 http://rotagriponline.com/index.php...tegory_id=372&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=29


----------



## bravellir (Nov 24, 2008)

anyone tried this mc3 connectors?
http://cgi.ebay.com/MC3-Connector-5...243?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a629c438b


----------



## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

I guess they are huge


----------



## ortelius (Dec 6, 2007)

zemike said:


> I guess they are huge


Approximately the same size as connectors on Magicshine lamps. Largest outer diameter of the MC3 plug/socket is 13.5 mm. http://www.tritec-energy.com/images/content/11302001_MultiContact_web_enu.pdf


----------



## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

bravellir said:


> anyone tried this mc3 connectors?
> http://cgi.ebay.com/MC3-Connector-5...243?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a629c438b


They look like they are single conductor connectors for large gauge wire. Would not fit my idea of a good connector choice for a bikelight.


----------



## savagemann (Jan 14, 2008)

I'm really liking these connectors.
Don't have alot of trail time on them yet, but they seem to fit the bill.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/D...&lang=en&site=us&keywords=SC1202-ND&x=18&y=16

Inline...
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SC1211-ND

Panel mount is pretty slick if you don't want an inline cable solution.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SC1207-ND

Best part is that they are pretty lightweight.


----------



## bravellir (Nov 24, 2008)

Vancbiker said:


> They look like they are single conductor connectors for large gauge wire. Would not fit my idea of a good connector choice for a bikelight.


Yes they are. Don't know how I missed that :blush:


----------



## KBARK (Aug 7, 2007)

savagemann said:


> I'm really liking these connectors.
> Don't have alot of trail time on them yet, but they seem to fit the bill.
> 
> http://search.digikey.com/scripts/D...&lang=en&site=us&keywords=SC1202-ND&x=18&y=16
> ...


What kind of cable setup are you using with those?


----------



## savagemann (Jan 14, 2008)

A few different setups.
For my dual XPG setup I am running a 2 conductor cable 22ga. Outside diameter of the cable is about 3.5mm. The fit is really good through the relief grommet.
For my dual 3up XPG setup and similar I am using a dual conductor 18ga cable with outside diameter of 5.75mm, which requires some serious tinkering to make it work.
Take a look at the data sheet.

It mentions something like "Minimum 300 mate/unmate cycles without mechanical or electrical failure", which I am OK with. 

Thats gonna get me several years of use as I only do about 30-60 night rides a year. Also add in each time you hook it up to charge into that equation.

Conductor size is rated at 20-24 ga, but I was able to squeeze 18ga in there no problem.

I had to modify the back shell ( hand drill it out with a step drill) to take the 5.75mm cable.
Also had to ream out the neoprene grommet ( which was a major pain) to take the cable.

You should get really good results with 3.5-4.5mm cable though....but take a close look at the data sheet.


----------



## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> I was near my local RS today so i popped in and ordered some of the below, pick them up on monday. Will let you know my thoughts.


GD I used the 4 pin version of those connectors for my 7up light and they are excellent. 2 wires for the battery and the other 2 for the momentary switch. I have also been using them in automation projects for years. They work a treat


----------



## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Here's a Magicshine connector/ cable question. 
I use standard Magicshine Y cables which I cannibalize for battery packs and lights, and the wires are 4.4mm diameter.

I just got one of the skinny ones from Dx, only 2.9mm diameter.
It would be a better fit for small builds but will it carry enough current without undue resistance for 1 XM-L at 3.0A, battery on helmet?

Thanks


----------



## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

I don't know if the connector is rated that high but I'd probably just look at the wire gauge to form my opinion. What does it say on the jacket for the wire gauge?


----------



## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

the only MS Y cables I've received have been those skinny ones from DX and they have really small gauge wires (7 core?), at least 1/2 the internal diameter of the 1m extension cables I prefer. I was hesitant to use one in a single XP-G light @1.2A, though it seems to be ok. 

I'd avoid and buy a 1m MS extension cable instead.


----------



## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

mattthemuppet said:


> the only MS Y cables I've received have been those skinny ones from DX and they have really small gauge wires (7 core?), at least 1/2 the internal diameter of the 1m extension cables I prefer. I was hesitant to use one in a single XP-G light @1.2A, though it seems to be ok.
> 
> I'd avoid and buy a 1m MS extension cable instead.


Thanks, I'll check out the diameter of the wires in there. The wire run's only about 10 cm from LED to plug, and 10cm from battery to plug, but if you're hesitant with 1 LED I'm probably not gonna be happy with an XM-L.


----------



## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Thanks, I'll check out the diameter of the wires in there. The wire run's only about 10 cm from LED to plug, and 10cm from battery to plug, but if you're hesitant with 1 LED I'm probably not gonna be happy with an XM-L.


they're really small - the ID/metal core is easily 1/2 the diameter of the wires in the 4.4mm thick cable. It's one of those things that might be fine, but you don't want to build a light around it and find out it's not.

I bought a couple of them before I realised how thin the wires were, now they'll probably just donate plugs or bare wire for non-current sensitive stuff like switches.


----------



## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

The inner red and black wires are 1.06mm diameter measured outside the inner housing, and the inner wire core is 0.73mm.
Too thin for a 10cm run at 3A?

EDIT- looked it up. It's 21 or 22 gauge.


----------



## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Ofroad'bent, what gauge wire do you use from your driver to the first led? And then your led back to the driver?
What's the total length of that?


----------



## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

emu26 said:


> Ofroad'bent, what gauge wire do you use from your driver to the first led? And then your led back to the driver?
> What's the total length of that?


Forgive me here, but I don't know the actual gauge. 
I've used wires from the thicker Magicshine cable for these, and some other wires from Trail Tech connectors. The thicker wires are a pain in the arse to work with for things like the L-flex driver, as the little holes in the board are smaller than the wire, and the wires aren't very flexible either. I'd be happier with a softer and slightly thinner wire if it would work.

There's only about 1" from driver to LED and back, and about 4" from driver to the male connector.


----------



## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

WOW, how on earth are you building your leds and drivers into lights with only about 12mm of wire running between them? You must have tiny fingers and a micro soldering iron.

My wires normally end up about 40mm for each leg and I use a much smaller gauge PTFE wire for all of the internal stuff. The point I was making was that given how short your run from battery to driver is, and I was thinking here it would be about the same as from driver to led back to driver, that you could get away with the same gauge wire from battery to driver as from driver to led.


----------



## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

emu26 said:


> WOW, how on earth are you building your leds and drivers into lights with only about 12mm of wire running between them? You must have tiny fingers and a micro soldering iron.
> 
> My wires normally end up about 40mm for each leg and I use a much smaller gauge PTFE wire for all of the internal stuff. The point I was making was that given how short your run from battery to driver is, and I was thinking here it would be about the same as from driver to led back to driver, that you could get away with the same gauge wire from battery to driver as from driver to led.


The first Sled I did was only 1" long, so from switch to driver was under an inch, and from driver to LED just a short run. It was pretty fiddly I- I took it to work and did it under an operating microscope. The thicker gauge wires I was using were hard to work with also as they were very stiff at such short lengths. I could have used a thinner one for the switch.

The next builds had the driver and LED able to be wired up to the box before assembly, so it was a bit easier.

Getting back on topic, I'd like to know the optimum wire for maximum flexibility yet sufficiently low resistance. What Gauge would you suggest for the internals of a 1-XM-L light? For a short battery wire?

I think Quazzle may have a good wire on his Lux-RC site now.


----------



## savagemann (Jan 14, 2008)

For super flexible the silicone wire is great. Only problem is I find the jacket to be way too thick for me.
I recently started using Teflon jacketed wire.
Much less flexible than the silicone jacket, but the jacket is SUPER durable and Uber thin.
Temp rated to 200c
Regular cheap wire is only rated to 80c, which scares me a bit. I would hate to have my light fry because a simple piece of wire couldn't handle the internal heat.
I don't have a good source for the silicone stuff as my last supplier no longer carries it.
But I do have a good source for the teflon stuff.
It is worth giving a try, but as I said it is not super flexible, more made for durability and heat resistance.
Pretty cheap at around $7 for 25 feet.
I'd use 24 or 22 ga for internal wiring.
I use 22 for all my junctions and 24 or smaller for the switch.

http://www.bulkwire.com/wire-cable/ptfe-high-temperature-stranded-wire.html


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

savagemann said:


> For super flexible the silicone wire is great. Only problem is I find the jacket to be way too thick for me.
> I recently started using Teflon jacketed wire.
> Much less flexible than the silicone jacket, but the jacket is SUPER durable and Uber thin.
> Temp rated to 200c
> ...


This is one thing that i often overlook, I need to find some decent wire rather than the cheap maplins stuff I've been using.

Anybody know a good UK source for decent silicone of teflon wire?


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Will this do the job?
Mainly for my tripple builds..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/22-AWG-RC-Sil...sGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item2a0ff2d25a
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/18-AWG-RC-Sil...sGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item2a0ff2d171
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/20-AWG-RC-Sil...sGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item2a0ff2d272


----------



## bravellir (Nov 24, 2008)

I've being using that wire, 22 and 20 awg and got it from the same source. Works great so far.


----------



## VegasSingleSpeed (May 5, 2005)

sergio_pt said:


> If anyone is interested I will have trailtech connectors for sale for half the price of batteryspace. :thumbsup: no more rippoffs


Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but I have a question regarding these simple switched connectors for the Trail-Tech lights (specifically, the switch above)...

...can current be run through them in the opposite direction? I don't think there is any voltage-regulating circuitry in these switches like some of their other switches, but I don't know if these switches have a diode preventing this?

I have a lighting application where my power output is a male 2.1mm x 5.5mm plug; I need a female input going to the switch. The Trail-Tech lights are configured the opposite way...input is male, output is female.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## rschultz101 (Oct 5, 2009)

you could always cut it, and use the connectors.
otherwise, give me a buzz, I have some pigtails.
mtbl.robs-x


----------



## VegasSingleSpeed (May 5, 2005)

rschultz101 said:


> you could always cut it, and use the connectors.
> otherwise, give me a buzz, I have some pigtails.
> mtbl.robs-x


That's a possibility. BTW, I see the switch is rated for ~4 amps. Is 5 amps pushing it? :devil: (3 1.55A XP-G's plus a cooling fan)


----------



## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Ofroad'bent said:


> The first Sled I did was only 1" long, so from switch to driver was under an inch, and from driver to LED just a short run. It was pretty fiddly I- I took it to work and did it under an operating microscope. The thicker gauge wires I was using were hard to work with also as they were very stiff at such short lengths. I could have used a thinner one for the switch.
> 
> The next builds had the driver and LED able to be wired up to the box before assembly, so it was a bit easier.
> 
> ...


Going back to the Connector thread, a couple of updates.
1- I had to make an emergency battery pack for a 24 hr race when the PCM went on one of mine. I was able to make a connector to fit a Trailtech male, by taking a standard 5.5mm female and making an over-sleve out of 2 thicknesses of shrink-wrap. The wrap engages more of the female side, but pops together nicely over the male and engages some of the ridges.

I could use this technique to DIY connectors to almost any size, mate Magicshine to Trailtech to generic 5.5mm....

2- Also, on the topic of wire gauge, I got some of Quazzle's wire. It's nice and flexible, but looks like it might be a bit thin to carry 2A+ at 3.7v. 
From the website: http://lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/products/light_engines/accessories
BA-SW-025-R Super-flexible Silicone Wire 0.25mm2, 130 x 0.05mm (Power). Temp.-40C ~ 150C. Red. 1 Meter. Doesn't list the gauge.

I suspect it's fine for internal connections at 7.2v and 1A. Would I be better off with 18g for power leads from connector to L-flex at 3.7v and 2.8A?


----------



## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Ofroad'bent said:


> 2- Also, on the topic of wire gauge, I got some of Quazzle's wire. It's nice and flexible, but looks like it might be a bit thin to carry 2A+ at 3.7v.
> From the website: http://lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/products/light_engines/accessories
> BA-SW-025-R Super-flexible Silicone Wire 0.25mm2, 130 x 0.05mm (Power). Temp.-40C ~ 150C. Red. 1 Meter. Doesn't list the gauge.
> 
> I suspect it's fine for internal connections at 7.2v and 1A. Would I be better off with 18g for power leads from connector to L-flex at 3.7v and 2.8A?


Yes, the 18 AWG will be better for the main power connection as you'll see less voltage drop. The wire from quazzle is right between 22 and 24 AWG. 22 AWG is rated for 3A and 24 AWG is rated at 2A.


----------



## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Vancbiker said:


> Yes, the 18 AWG will be better for the main power connection as you'll see less voltage drop. The wire from quazzle is right between 22 and 24 AWG. 22 AWG is rated for 3A and 24 AWG is rated at 2A.


So would you prefer 18 AWG or 20 AWG for power wiring an L-flex?


----------



## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Ofroad'bent said:


> So would you prefer 18 AWG or 20 AWG for power wiring an L-flex?


If the length is short, go with 20 AWG. If it is longer then use the 18 AWG. Voltage drop calculators are on the web.


----------



## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

*New kid on the block?*

That's a favorite!

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=9625


----------



## HuffyPuffy (Jun 9, 2008)

I was checking the Hirschmann M8 connectors out which were posted earlier in this thread. I found them over at Allied Electoronics:

These are the 4 conductor version, the 3 conductor has the same size conductors

The only problem with them that I can see is that they show a 0.25mm^2 conductor which is about 23 gauge. The max current for 23 gauge is 4.7A (see links below):

Datasheet

Metric to AWG chart

Wire load capacities

So my question for the folks using these is, how do they perform and what type of light do you run? I am considering using these for a 3 or 4 XML light and these seem lightweight for the job - but I really like their design.


----------



## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

The amp capacity chart that we use in the plant shows 22AWG at 3A and 24AWG at 2A. I am pretty sure that it is referencing NEC or NFPA 79. Undersized connectors or conductors create voltage drop that wastes battery power.


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

HuffyPuffy said:


> I was checking the Hirschmann M8 connectors out which were posted earlier in this thread. I found them over at Allied Electoronics:
> 
> These are the 4 conductor version, the 3 conductor has the same size conductors
> 
> ...


The Hirschmann connectors I use are rated at 3amps, troutie use the same ones..
I think they do the job perfectly.
I've used them on my tripples..
http://www.e-catalog.beldensolutions.com/link/57078-24228-62529-24238-24243-24248-37243/en/conf/0


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Looks like there is a new Hirschmann M8 panel mount plug, rated at 4amps
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-assembly/2021920/









https://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/00b6/0900766b800b6d0d.pdf


----------



## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

VegasSingleSpeed said:


> That's a possibility. BTW, I see the switch is rated for ~4 amps. Is 5 amps pushing it? :devil: (3 1.55A XP-G's plus a cooling fan)


It is definitely pushed over limit. You'd better go for a higher rated switch. 
If your load is inductive you can additionally protect your switch by using a circuit like this:

"As a guide in selecting r and c,
r: 0.5 to 1Ω per 1V contact voltage
c: 0.5 to 1μF per 1A contact current

Capacitor c acts to suppress the discharge the
moment the contacts open. Resistor r acts to limit
the current when the power is turned on the next
time."


----------



## HuffyPuffy (Jun 9, 2008)

Goldigger said:


> The Hirschmann connectors I use are rated at 3amps, troutie use the same ones..
> I think they do the job perfectly.
> I've used them on my tripples..
> http://www.e-catalog.beldensolutions.com/link/57078-24228-62529-24238-24243-24248-37243/en/conf/0


Thanks, those look similar if not the same as the Hirschmann m8 connectors, and use the same gauge wire. Great to know that they should work well with 3 XML's. Although I would like to get some with a slightly larger gauge (considering VanceBiker's advice), the Hirschmann connectors look like the best so far for a connector with more than 2 conductors - I need 4 wires for a remote switch and LED + power.


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

HuffyPuffy said:


> Thanks, those look similar if not the same as the Hirschmann m8 connectors, and use the same gauge wire. Great to know that they should work well with 3 XML's. Although I would like to get some with a slightly larger gauge (considering VanceBiker's advice), the Hirschmann connectors look like the best so far for a connector with more than 2 conductors - I need 4 wires for a remote switch and LED + power.


They are Hirschmann M8 connectors (Hirschmann a Belden brand)
They also come in 4 way, the 4 way uses 24awg rather than 23awg that the 3 way uses.
Either way they are still rated at 3amps, the cables to match are rated at 4 amps.
http://www.e-catalog.beldensolutions.com/link/57078-24228-62529-24238-24243-24248-37244/en/conf/0

I get mine from here
3 way http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-assembly/2906376/
4 way http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-assembly/2906382/

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-assembly/0282906/
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-assembly/0282934/


----------



## HuffyPuffy (Jun 9, 2008)

Thanks, that is the same part numberI have been checking at Allied (RS counterpart in the USA). RS has better info on the parts though. I am holding off on buying until they get back with me on the lead time. Seems odd that these types of connectors are so hard to find, seems like they would have a ton of uses.


----------



## Erich von Speedcliff (Jul 30, 2010)

I have used RF BNC connectors/cables from Digikey with success. The connector is ARFX1063-ND, and the cable ACX1793-ND. They twist to lock together and have a nice flex relief on the cable.


----------



## tehschkott (Apr 2, 2009)

Long time lurker, first post. Do you know of a connector that will mount in a standard water bottle boss? Or inside a 5mm hole (aka drilled out wb boss)?

I'm wiring up my Karate Monkey with internal wiring. 

Digging through this thread/forum for awhile, and other locations. Difficult to tell online the dimensions of the terminating end. Sounds like you have the kinds of hands-on experience to make this a less painless process.

farm7.static.flickr.com/6123/6191532074_0904b58295_b.jpg

Thanks all


----------



## HuffyPuffy (Jun 9, 2008)

tehschkott said:


> Long time lurker, first post. Do you know of a connector that will mount in a standard water bottle boss? Or inside a 5mm hole (aka drilled out wb boss)?
> 
> I'm wiring up my Karate Monkey with internal wiring.
> 
> ...


I like the idea, should make a really tidy install. 5mm is pretty small for a connector. The connector has to be large enough to have contacts that can carry current to which limits the selection further. The smallest ones that seem practical are the M8 connectors from Hirschmann and they would probably be rugged enough to mount on the forks since they are metal (though a cover would be good when they are not in use).


----------



## mfj197 (Jan 28, 2011)

tehschkott said:


> Long time lurker, first post. Do you know of a connector that will mount in a standard water bottle boss? Or inside a 5mm hole (aka drilled out wb boss)?
> 
> I'm wiring up my Karate Monkey with internal wiring.
> 
> ...


Do you need a connector, or can you have a cable gland instead with wire passing through and an inline connector? You might have more of a chance of getting a 5mm gland rather than connector.


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

Over the last year I have become fond of the XT60 connector. It's widely used in the RC hobby space (search www.hobbyking.com or search for Xt60 on DX or just google xt60).

Easy to solder. Add a bit of self adhesive heatshrink to the shorter side and it becomes easier to pull apart.

So far more reliable than the deans connectors.

Mark


----------

