# Hope Pro II rebuild pics



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

I had a bit of side play, about a mm or so I just recently noticed, so it looked like a good time to finally take some pics to remove the mystery in rebuilding these things. It's always a pleasure to take these things apart. Aside from the cassette lockring tool, this is truly a no special tools needed operation.

The only part I didn't illustrate here was the removal of the bearings in the freehub body, which will be self-explanatory at that step.

1. Hub before disassembly. You simply pull on the freehub firmly. You can do one of several things. You can pull the endcap off with a pair of pliers, as they essentially hold the hub together with a tight seal. The body to hub seal also snaps into place. You can also simply pull the freehub and endcap off together, but it's tougher. I use the latter method.

2. The engagement side of the freehub. Note the pawls, springs, two bearings on the inner side, and the large main seal.

3&4 The axle shaft, the engagement ring inside the hubshell, and note the groove where the oring inside the endcap resides*. Also note there is a thick washer here that separates the hub support bearing from the freehub support bearing.*

5. Endcap and the lockring side of the freehub.


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Some more pics:

1. Rotor side and the seal after the black endcap is removed with a pair of pliers.

2&3 The axle removed. It is removed by tapping from the rotor side. The bearing comes out with it. Note the thick washer.

4&5. More shots of the engagement ring. The axle is reinstalled by tapping from the drive side. Make sure to seat the bearing until it's flush with the hub.


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

More pics

1. The freehub with the springs and pawls removed

2. The lockring side. Note the sleeve between the bearings is dislodged. It is at this point you can remove the bearings by putting a deep socket in this gap and tapping against the sleeve or against the bearing directly.

3. Spring installed.

4&5. The pawls and springs installed. Note the locations for the grease application. These locations will continue to feed the pawl tips with lubrication, but not too much. When I removed the assembly, a good amount I left under the pawls was still there. Get some grease on the tips, as well as an amount on the engagement ring. Not much needed, but if you use too much, you can affect the engagement or disengagement. I used a lighter grease that won't prevent the pawls from being pushed out of the way during freewheeling and won't reduce the amount the pawls go into the engagement ring. Too much and too thick grease will prevent proper engagement and disengagement, so be cautious.* Note in the last pic the ridge where the main seal resides. Lubricate this to prevent dirt and water intrusion.*


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Last pic

The assembly is put back together by installing the black cap on the disc side. Make sure the seal is cleaned and lubed lightly, including the oring on the inside of the cap.

The freehub is simply pushed onto the hub, over the axle shaft. The main seal snaps into place on the hub. Place silver endcap on the end of the shaft, then use a quick release to clamp it all together tightly. Remove and the hub is ready for the cassette. Make sure nothing is binding and you'll be all set.

For the seals, I use prep-m. I also checked the outer bearings for lube and found one had little in it. Used prep-m, and also made sure all seal faces had a thin film or residue of grease for water repellancy. 

This whole job can be done in under 30 minutes.


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Awesome, JC!

Now I have a reference when I take mine apart. Thanks! :thumbsup:


----------



## cgd (Dec 28, 2006)

very helpfull, hopefully itll be some time yet before i have to service mine.

how many miles did you get out of them? or were you just itching to take them apart? :0)


them metal strips look a lot less trouble than the springs of old too...


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

I've been using them since the fall. Sealing is excellent, but as I said, there was a bit of play and I decided to do the whole thing while I was in there in case some grit fell inside. Grease was still very clean and no free water to be found.


----------



## marcus_dukakis (Apr 25, 2005)

JC - just a note - I had trouble re-seating the main seal between the freehub body and the hub shell. I couldn't just push the two together and get a good seal. The solution was to seat one half of this seal, and then use the blunt end of teaspoon to pop the remaining edges of the seal into place, while ensuring that a little bit of pressure was being applied to the freehub at the same time. 

It's easy to tell if the seal hasn't seated properly as you will get crazy amounts of drag from the freehub. 

Hope this helps someone - it took me about 2 hours and several hub re-assemblies to figure it out. My main seal was a very hard plastic and seemed a little on the large side. Took about 5 minutes once I worked out how to do it.


----------



## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

Nice write-up.
Is the hub any quieter now?


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

I didn't go to make it quieter. In fact, I made it louder. I like the sound.

After my first servicing, I inadvertantly added too much lube to the ratchet ring, using Prep M. It made it about as quiet as a DT 240. I use a different lube now that is slipperier and a smaller amount of it. The oem lube is some sort of blue grease, more viscous than PrepM, but they use a small amount because not all that much is needed anyhow.


----------



## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

Duuuude... Two words...."Nail cut!!!"
Just kidding of course... Awesome pictorial...


----------



## sid_day (May 8, 2006)

*Thanks*

...for taking the time to put this together.
I've had mine about 14 months and just got round to servicing the rear one after some creaking developed; the hub is still running smooth.

I suspect all the grease is washed out from the drive side cap and this moving against the hollow axle.

Unfortunately I found it is stuck on!

Now thanks to your thread I know where to apply effort without breaking anything!

Cheers,

Simon.


----------



## mikebike121 (May 16, 2007)

*Hope & White Industries Hubs*

The internals to the Hope Pro 2 look almost exactly like the White Industries hubs. Does one company share the patent from the other?


----------



## Midle Age Warrior (Nov 13, 2006)

*Hope vs. WTB rear hubs*

J C I just finished to read the both threads about services of the Hopes and WTB rear hubs.
1. Wich one of them are better value
2. Are the parts of the Hope´s like hub body available in the states and from whom
3. Have the Hope´s bearings a special desing or you can buy the replacements in a baering wharehouse or retail shop.
This info will help me chosing the hubs for my new built.

Thanks


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Midle Age Warrior said:


> J C I just finished to read the both threads about services of the Hopes and WTB rear hubs.
> 1. Wich one of them are better value
> 2. Are the parts of the Hope´s like hub body available in the states and from whom
> 3. Have the Hope´s bearings a special desing or you can buy the replacements in a baering wharehouse or retail shop.
> ...


1) That is up to JC
2) https://www.hopetechusa.com/ has all the parts
3) The bearing are standard, so no worries.. check the diagram below


----------



## daktari (Apr 12, 2007)

*converting from qr to 10 mm bolt-on?*

Thanks for the great instructions!
To me, it seems like its possible to exchange the axle and rebuild the rear hub from qr to 10 mm bolt on. (or 12 mm of course)
Anyone tried this, and if - any advice?
-e


----------



## Random Drivel (Oct 20, 2006)

*Bookmarked!*

Nice write up JC. Bookmarked! I found that the QR spacers come off by hand pretty easy.



daktari said:


> Thanks for the great instructions!
> To me, it seems like its possible to exchange the axle and rebuild the rear hub from qr to 10 mm bolt on. (or 12 mm of course)
> Anyone tried this, and if - any advice?
> -e


Yes it is possible, someone did it a while back and posted teh results on the Turner forum, using one of the new DT Swiss ratcheting TA's. You could also do it with the Hope TA.


----------



## Low_Rider (Jan 15, 2004)

Thanks JC! I recently pulled my hub apart out of interest and just for the sake of it more then anything. 

It had really only seen a twelve hour endurance event and a few rides from time to time over the last six months in great conditions. Just broken in! 

As expected it was clean and like new inside, so I just pulled apart and cleaned up the engagement side of things and replaced the grease and did the seals. I used tentative amounts of Prep M to keep things loud and free, but as soon as I find something a little less viscous I’ll probably pull it apart again just for piece of mind.

Thanks again! :thumbsup:

Cheers, Dave.


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

I contacted Hope about the lubricant and they recommended a Mobil grease, but I asked them where to get it, and the tech mentioned in reality, any lube is fine, like Prep M. Just make sure it's water resistant.

It's very touch to get the very slick automotive cv joint grease, as most are the more sticky ones.


----------



## strangerthanmilhouse (Jan 18, 2007)

*Thanx*

Thanks alot for the info. I was having issues, but you showed me the light.


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

No problem. I'm hoping to get enough support for a DIY section, as I've been throwing the idea around to Gregg for a while.


----------



## strangerthanmilhouse (Jan 18, 2007)

*Good idea*

Im sure someone out there will have a solution to somebody else's crazy problem. Good luck:thumbsup:


----------



## GreenLightGo (Oct 24, 2006)

I just got a set of Pro 2's for my SS so no service needed for a while. Just wondering if Slick Honey is suitable for this purpose when the time comes. I've got a tube and like it's thin/less tacky nature.


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Thanks, JC!

I followed your instructions and converted my rear hub to 10mm TA with a DT RWS


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Nice! I'm going to be doing the same on mine. I've found the Hope skewers to be less than stellar with remaining tight when thrown through the rocks. It's still an ongoing problem.


----------



## Low_Rider (Jan 15, 2004)

I seem to be one of the lucky few who haven’t had any issues with Hope skewers. 

Even so, the DT conversion looks like a nice little upgrade…


----------



## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Thanks JC for the write up, excellent job.

Really torn right now between building up a set of Pro II/5.1's or a set up standard flange I9's with 5.1 rims.

Still researching/reading/thinking, but the Pro II's look like ALOTTA bang for the buck.


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> Still researching/reading/thinking, but the Pro II's look like ALOTTA bang for the buck.


they are! :thumbsup:

i9s are very sweet though


----------



## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

crisillo said:


> they are! :thumbsup:
> 
> i9s are very sweet though


yes they are. 

Both look easily rebuildable by the rider, and the quality/mechanical internals of both seem top notch, although the I9's seem to have the edge due to faster engagement.

I am still waiting for the I9 standard flange hubs to become available, but the shop is guessing around $600 for a set. That's only $125 more that a similar Hope Pro II/5.1 build.

Tough decision!


----------



## chinaman (Jun 8, 2007)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> Nice! I'm going to be doing the same on mine. I've found the Hope skewers to be less than stellar with remaining tight ...





Crisillo said:


> I followed your instructions and converted my rear hub to 10mm ...


Just wanted to check that standard drop outs that uses QR will take a 10mm bolt through?

Cris, your 575 uses QR and you managed to use a 10mm axel with it? Presume you have to mount the wheel first then slide the axel through? :skep:


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

chinaman said:


> Just wanted to check that standard drop outs that uses QR will take a 10mm bolt through?
> 
> Cris, your 575 uses QR and you managed to use a 10mm axel with it? Presume you have to mount the wheel first then slide the axel through? :skep:


standard dropouts are 9mm front and 10mm rear...so no problem... I keep the axle on the hub and just tighten or loosen to get it in or out... just like a regular QR


----------



## chinaman (Jun 8, 2007)

crisillo said:


> standard dropouts are 9mm front and 10mm rear...so no problem...


Cheers Cris. That is massively new to me. Am thinking of building a new AM rig and was deciding on whether to go 10mm TA rear or QR? Does not matter now as it will fit any frame with std rear dropouts. But it will be TA. 

BTW loved you new black ano front triangle. :thumbsup: _Give your LBS a push ... too slow ... too slow_


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

chinaman said:


> Cheers Cris. That is massively new to me. Am thinking of building a new AM rig and was deciding on whether to go 10mm TA rear or QR? Does not matter now as it will fit any frame with std rear dropouts. But it will be TA.
> 
> BTW loved you new black ano front triangle. :thumbsup: _Give your LBS a push ... too slow ... too slow_


thanks, chinaman.... yeah.. normally I install the headsets myself..but since it is a CK..I rather do it "right"...also I don't have the tool to whack it out


----------



## steel4real (Feb 14, 2007)

*Superb !*

JC - I'd just like to thank you for the step by step service instructions of the Pro II rear. I have found them invaluable when my hub went all squeaky and wrong (with a few hours use it wouldn't spin one complete revolution !!) after I trusted a supposedbly well reputed shop to change my axle from QR to 'bolt in'. Should have done it myself in the first place because in the end I stripped it down with your instructions and put it together correctly.

It ran a lot better then but a few weeks later I had a slight squeak - turned out the the outboard bearing in the frehup body had no grease in ???

Cheers dude !


----------



## The Orange Prophet (Oct 4, 2006)

*Front Pro II and DT Swiss RWS?*



crisillo said:


> Thanks, JC!
> 
> I followed your instructions and converted my rear hub to 10mm TA with a DT RWS


I thinks that's going to be the next upgrade on my prophet.

Is it possible to convert a front Pro II hub to take a DT Swiss RWS?


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

The Orange Prophet said:


> I thinks that's going to be the next upgrade on my prophet.
> 
> Is it possible to convert a front Pro II hub to take a DT Swiss RWS?


not so far.... the front RWS is 9mm and there are no adapters so far.... but send an email to Hope...maybe if we bug them enough they will make them....


----------



## Quercus agrifolia (Jan 30, 2005)

*Thanks for this...*



marcus_dukakis said:


> JC - just a note - I had trouble re-seating the main seal between the freehub body and the hub shell. I couldn't just push the two together and get a good seal. The solution was to seat one half of this seal, and then use the blunt end of teaspoon to pop the remaining edges of the seal into place, while ensuring that a little bit of pressure was being applied to the freehub at the same time.
> 
> It's easy to tell if the seal hasn't seated properly as you will get crazy amounts of drag from the freehub.
> 
> Hope this helps someone - it took me about 2 hours and several hub re-assemblies to figure it out. My main seal was a very hard plastic and seemed a little on the large side. Took about 5 minutes once I worked out how to do it.


The tip about the main seal behind the hub body definitely helped me out..after several hub re-assemblies!

Your comment was dead-on...it wasn't seated properly, and created major drag. Like a dumbazz, I thought my grease (Phil's) was too thick, and pulled it apart and re-lubed with some lighter DuMond stuff.

Turns out it was just the seal.


----------



## Dragoneyes (Aug 12, 2007)

I have a question, after the rebuild, changing the grease was the hub quieter?


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Well, I opted for a different type of grease that doesn't quiet it down. It does the opposite, in fact. You can add more volume of a viscous lube and it will be quieter for a while, but eventually go back to the way it was sooner or later. If you use too much lube, however, you will end up affecting the engagement and could even possibly cause slipping. The threshold for that is not something I want to experiment with.


----------



## The Orange Prophet (Oct 4, 2006)

crisillo said:


> not so far.... the front RWS is 9mm and there are no adapters so far.... but send an email to Hope...maybe if we bug them enough they will make them....


An email has been dispatched!

I take it the rear end is relatively simple to convert?


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Very. There's actually a thread on the Turner forum somewhere with a picture showing the axle with the skewer inside.

I have a feeler out to Ventanarama about the parts needed for my conversion.

I am also awaiting to speak to Phil (had some time troubles) about this conversion and what people are expecting to do with it. I was referred by Don and Monkamoo to do this and Phil was waiting to hear details.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I attempted the rear hub rebuild per Jerked Chicken's instructions and everything was going smoothly until I got to the step where you remove the axle. Tapping the rotor side of the axle wasn't doing it for me. Is there a special trick here? Do you just go for it with a wooden mallet?


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

yeah.. just hit the axle from the non-drive side.. just don't go "caveman" on it


----------



## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

crisillo said:


> yeah.. just hit the axle from the non-drive side.. just don't go "caveman" on it


When I replaced the bearings in my Hope XC rear hub a short while ago, I used a hole saw to cut a hole just slightly larger than the bearings in a piece of wood. I then placed the drive side of the axle through the hole resting the drive side hub flange on the wood. I then rested another small block of wood on the axle and hammered it out.

This worked well except for the fact that I ended up having to retension and redish the wheel afterwards due to the drive side spokes being pressed (during the hammering) to better conform to the hub flange.

Perhaps I didn't go far enough with my woodworking? It occurs to me now that I could have routed some small grooves in the wood so that the spokes would not have been impacted.

What do the rest of you do to support the hub without pressing on the spokes?


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

KevinB said:


> What do the rest of you do to support the hub without pressing on the spokes?


I just held the wheel "vertically" (tube and tire were installed) with one hand and hit the axle with a rubber mallet... it only took a couple of solid hits to get it moving...


----------



## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

crisillo said:


> I just help the wheel "vertically" (tube and tire were installed) with one hand and hit the axle with a rubber mallet... it only took a couple of solid hits to get it moving...


Wow. That's just too easy...


----------



## chinaman (Jun 8, 2007)

crisillo said:


> ... I just held the wheel "vertically" (tube and tire were installed) with one hand and hit the axle with a rubber mallet ... it only took a couple of solid hits to get it moving ...


Expecting delivery of my Hope Pro IIs with DT 5.1 rims and ... DT 10mm RWS thru bolt QR with the Hope conversion bolt thru kit tomorrow. 

Cant wait to have a go ... with this much resource cant go wrong but will keep fingers crossed.


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

chinaman said:


> Expecting delivery of my Hope Pro IIs with DT 5.1 rims and ... DT 10mm RWS thru bolt QR with the Hope conversion bolt thru kit tomorrow.
> 
> Cant wait to have a go ... with this much resource cant go wrong but will keep fingers crossed.


You'll love it! :thumbsup:


----------



## Random Drivel (Oct 20, 2006)

Great thread.

I just finished converting my rear form QR to the DT 10mm TA. Went pretty smoothly, though I noticed a couple of things. 

Taking everything apart was pretty easy, though I used too much rubber mallet and ended up launching the axle and bearing across the living room floor. Ooops. 

I used a piece of pvc to remove the bearing from the old axle and put it on the new. 

Then, when I went to put the new axle and bearing back in, I ended up popping the brake side bearing out. I tapped it back in with a socket, then had to check to make sure both sides were evenly seated. A minor detail, but worth noting. 

Of course, I had tons of drag when I put it back together, so I went back and read the thread, and found the answer--my freewheel seal was not seated. Problem solved. 

Two thumbs up! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Random Drivel said:


> Taking everything apart was pretty easy, though I used too much rubber mallet and ended up launching the axle and bearing across the living room floor. Ooops.


that happened to me too :lol:


----------



## papajoe (Nov 20, 2005)

you didn't remove the ratchet ring in your pictorial. is this possible just as easily, as the rest of the procedure?


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

The ratchet ring is supposedly screwed in and back-threading it is supposed to be an impossible operation.


----------



## kona4lyf (Sep 24, 2007)

*well*

its been 3 weeks and im still waitin for my hope pro 11"s  ,another week to wait,[email protected]$k it,australia aint got [email protected]$t in the way of these hubs :madmax:


----------



## Tkul (Mar 1, 2007)

been waiting for Hope Hoops since 27/8/2007!
Have been shiped, should arrive next week!
ALELUIA!


----------



## chinaman (Jun 8, 2007)

Does anyone know how I can remove the bearing from the axel? (Hope Pro II hub) ... need to change the axel to use the 10mm bolt thru with the DT Swiss 10mm RWS. 

Tried tapping it out with a rubber mallet but does not want to budge at all.


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

chinaman said:


> Does anyone know how I can remove the bearing from the axel? (Hope Pro II hub) ... need to change the axel to use the 10mm bolt thru with the DT Swiss 10mm RWS.
> 
> Tried tapping it out with a rubber mallet but does not want to budge at all.


I just replied your PM... you need something cylindrical to support the bearing while you "hammer" the axle off *with the rubber mallet* and do the inverse to get on the other axle..


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

They are not pressed on very tightly, in my experience. When I did the tutorial, they actually popped off inadvertantly. 

You can use the hubshell to tap them out. Put the bearing back into its pocket in the hubshell, then tap the axle through. You then put the new axle through, then try to tap it through the bearing from the other side, which will pop it out, then you need a deep socket or something tubular like PVC to tap it on.


----------



## chinaman (Jun 8, 2007)

Cheers JC

I sent a PM to Cris as well and he suggested using the bike clamp ...  

Same concept ...


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

For US ProII owners:

I spoke to Phil yesterday and they do have the steel freehub bodies in stock. They run about $70+shipping.


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> For US ProII owners:
> 
> I spoke to Phil yesterday and they do have the steel freehub bodies in stock. They run about $70+shipping.


cool..I have no problems with the alu one...but good to have an option...


----------



## chinaman (Jun 8, 2007)

All done 10mm rear and 20mm front ...

Cheers JC & Cris ... once you have done it once .. it all seems so simple ...  I can see how dirt can quite easily get into the rear hub through the plastic dirt/dust cover just behind the freehub body.

I used a cut off from a fork steerer that I kept to push the bearing in on both sides. I do have a habit of collecting bits and bobs. Came in really handy. :thumbsup:


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

chinaman said:


> All done 10mm rear and 20mm front ...
> 
> Cheers JC & Cris ... once you have done it once .. it all seems so simple ...  I can see how dirt can quite easily get into the rear hub through the plastic dirt/dust cover just behind the freehub body.
> 
> I used a cut off from a fork steerer that I kept to push the bearing in on both sides. I do have a habit of collecting bits and bobs. Came in really handy. :thumbsup:


cool!

enjoy the 10mm setup :thumbsup:


----------



## Rmo (Dec 2, 2007)

*Am i allowed to swear?? Because i might.*

Do you know how to remove the cassette from the free hub? I inadvertently removed the whole thing from the hub, cassette and everything. Tried the procedure that was described in your photo's and now its almost impossible to get the free hub to 'snap' back in as you described. I had removed the lock ring from the cassette beforehand. Hope you can help!!


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Rmo said:


> Do you know how to remove the cassette from the free hub? I inadvertently removed the whole thing from the hub, cassette and everything. Tried the procedure that was described in your photo's and now its almost impossible to get the free hub to 'snap' back in as you described. I had removed the lock ring from the cassette beforehand. Hope you can help!!


with the lockring off, the cassette should just slide off.....

are you using cassette with an aluminum carrier?

if you are using a cassette without it, the cassette will gouge the aluminum freehub and get jammed...


----------



## Rmo (Dec 2, 2007)

I'm using a Shimano LX cassette. 

The free hub has normal wear marks like the one one the photo's.

It just makes it more difficult to get the main seal to pop into the hub.


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Rmo said:


> I'm using a Shimano LX cassette.
> 
> The free hub has normal wear marks like the one one the photo's.
> 
> It just makes it more difficult to get the main seal to pop into the hub.


the LX doesn't use a carrier...so the rings are probably biting into the freehub....

try to get the hub together and get the cassette off, to check how badly gouged the freehub is...


----------



## tatankainlondon (Apr 4, 2004)

crisillo said:


> Thanks, JC!
> 
> I followed your instructions and converted my rear hub to 10mm TA with a DT RWS


crisillo

question about your brake rotors:
Have you noticed anything like a faster wear of your disc brake pads? I have the same rotor on my front brake and it took me less than a week to go through a set of disc pads, and that was not even a heavy duty riding, just cruising around.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
thanks


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

tatankainlondon said:


> crisillo
> 
> question about your brake rotors:
> Have you noticed anything like a faster wear of your disc brake pads? I have the same rotor on my front brake and it took me less than a week to go through a set of disc pads, and that was not even a heavy duty riding, just cruising around.
> ...


I didn't have any out-of-the-ordinary wear with them.... I use only metallic pads though...were you running organics??

I have since switched back to the stock rotors, because these get hot really fast and cause some fading.... I guess it's just the amount of material in the rotor... and I am riding the brakes too much


----------



## soslow (Jan 22, 2006)

JC==Did you notice if the side to side play went away after the hub service? I've only had my hubs for about two months and I've felt the play you mentioned.


----------



## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Thanks for the info. Any info on how to get the front bearings out of a Bulb hub? Thanks, scott
.
.


----------



## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

there has been some drag on my rear Hope Pro II hub so I think its hight time for a rebuild or at least re-grease it...anything special I should look for that could be causing the dragging?? there has been some nasty noises but Im not totally sure there are coming from the hub....


----------



## TrailNut (Apr 6, 2004)

good thread
gees didn't even know hubs can be rebuilt or serviced.
i just got my Pro II


----------



## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

After dismounting the hub, cleaning and greasing,and then mounting again the hub was dragging more than before!, so I've dismounted the hub again to replace the freewheel bearings and I've found that one of the pawls springs is broken!, now I have to replace it but, could this be causing the excessive dragging of the freewheel or should I replace the freewheel bearings anyway??:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:



ban said:


> there has been some drag on my rear Hope Pro II hub so I think its hight time for a rebuild or at least re-grease it...anything special I should look for that could be causing the dragging?? there has been some nasty noises but Im not totally sure there are coming from the hub....


----------



## refreshinglygood (Apr 15, 2006)

AWWWWWWEEEEEESSSSOOOOMMMEEEEE.

Thanks for that. Exactly what I was looking for.

I have about 250km's on my hub.

Want to make sure I have it for ages.

Thanks for that.

Nice pictorial.

:thumbsup:


----------



## markw1970 (Oct 8, 2007)

*Awesome thread guys - big cheers goes out to JC*

Hi JC, this is the most useful thread to-date I've come across. Awesome photos and description on the rebuild. I've just received my new Halo Freedom wheels with Hope Pro II hubs. Crisilo, you inspired me to drop a 10mm axel through the hub with the DT axel.

Brilliant - the Specy Enduro is going to love it. Now if I can get over my foot surgery and get back out in the mud - ace. Cheers for the great thread guys. :thumbsup:

(PS anyone else thinking of droping in a 10mm axel - it's a piece of cake... special thanks goes out to my luvly girlfriend for treating me to the new bits


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Looks sweet, Mark!

Heal fast and get back on that bike! :thumbsup:


----------



## GreenLightGo (Oct 24, 2006)

Another satisfied customer. Easy to follow, I did this in less than 30 minutes yesterday. Thanks JC!

One question though - Buzzy's Slick Honey - too thin? I used it in the areas you highlighted and it's not a thick tacky grease like Phil Wood blue stuff or automotive bearing grease, but is thinner, more viscous. Everything spins/rotates very nice afterwards and no appreciable difference in the tone/sound of the hub (not what I was after anyway, just servicing the hub which has 1100 miles on it).


----------



## elmono (Nov 2, 2007)

Thanks for this thread, it should help me out a lot, except: I was not able to get the freewheel body off, no matter how much I pulled on it.

Any secret tricks to get the job done?


----------



## refreshinglygood (Apr 15, 2006)

just gotta pull it.


I wrapped a rag around the free hub body, grabbed it with a multi grip tool , and tugged away.


The black washer/seal will pop, and then it's out.


I had a harder time trying to work out how to get it back together :madman: :madman: :madman: :madman: :madman: :madman: :madman: :madman: :madman: :madman:


----------



## markw1970 (Oct 8, 2007)

Yeah, I just 'yanked' hard to pull it off and it came off in my hand... (that sounds wrong!). I guess it's a question of grip and fear of breaking something that sometimes holds me back from being too forceful. Refreshinglygood's tip sounds perfect... I'll wish you luck, fingers crossed and good luck with the conversion - you'll love it


----------



## therollex (Oct 21, 2005)

great article. I pulled the free hub body off and lost one of the springs! I inhertited a wheel with a new bike, the bearings are shot and plan to replace them. I have a bulb rear, is it the same as the Pro2 in that I should tap from the non drive side to get the axle out? so far it seems pretty seized, any ideas?


----------



## flatland (Aug 1, 2005)

Thanks for the threat.

I also have a bit of side play in my wheel, so I serviced the hub but the side play isn't gone.
Somebody know what's the reason for the side play?

I've also found a video made by Hope how to service the Pro 2:

http://link.brightcove.com/services/link/bcpid1443726540/bclid1445126936/bctid1445041178


----------



## Konish (Dec 26, 2006)

Watching that video made me cringe. Man, am I too old-fashioned? I would *never* beat a sealed bearing back onto a shaft I intended to use. I was taught that bearings can be beaten out with a drift only if the intent was to replace the bearing, at which point the new one would be pressed on. 

I do agree that a bearing drifted out with the outer race supported (with a proper bearing tool), is less likely to damage the bearing. But to essentially knock the axle shaft out of the bearing seems like it would damage the inner races and balls. 

What do I know...they are the guys that built it so I guess it's an acceptable practice, but I know my grandfather is rolling over in his grave.

One quick question. My next upgrade is hubs and the Hope's seem to be the most affordable of the "boutique" hubs. However, just looking at the pics in this thread make me wonder. The free-hub body looks pretty beat up (deep gouges along the cassette splines). Anyone else notice this on their Hope's? I seemed to remember reading that a clyde posted that his got so chewed up that he had to beat the free-body off the hub housing. At 225, I'd like to know the score before I buy....

R/
Dustin


----------



## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

Konish said:


> One quick question. My next upgrade is hubs and the Hope's seem to be the most affordable of the "boutique" hubs. However, just looking at the pics in this thread make me wonder. The free-hub body looks pretty beat up (deep gouges along the cassette splines). Anyone else notice this on their Hope's? I seemed to remember reading that a clyde posted that his got so chewed up that he had to beat the free-body off the hub housing. At 225, I'd like to know the score before I buy....
> 
> R/
> Dustin


Mine did that when I was using a low budget cassette. If you use an XT, 990 or 980 the problem isn't as bad.

I would never use this hub with a SS conversion.


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

dan51 said:


> Mine did that when I was using a low budget cassette. If you use an XT, 990 or 980 the problem isn't as bad.
> 
> I would never use this hub with a SS conversion.


correcty...cassettes with alu spiders will be fine

I used my "regular" pro 2 as an SS converted hub without issue ....just use a cog with a wide base and no prob!


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

They also have a stainless hub.


----------



## kikoy (Aug 30, 2007)

@ban Where can you buy pawl springs for your pro2 hub? I'm just asking incase but knock on wood that would not happen.


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

kikoy said:


> @ban Where can you buy pawl springs for your pro2 hub? I'm just asking incase but knock on wood that would not happen.


here: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=18780


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Update:

Over two years of service, now in two continents. I noted a clicking on occasion, with the onset of power application. Very minor, nothing else. I suspected I had something going on inside the freehub. I finally opened it today and discovered two broken pawl springs, both opposing one another. Luckily, I put a lot of grease in that pocket because the pieces were glued to the freehub in the grease.

So I'm figuring now that if you get an occasional "creak" or "click", check your pawl springs. Since they are wear and tear items anyhow, keep a set on hand, like I didn't (although I have spare wheels).

Of note- the remaining two springs looked like they were showing their age as well, in that they don't stick up as far anymore.

So again, start checking your pawl springs. I guess if you ride more than me, look into inspecting them yearly, then at 18 months and 24 or so. It's easy to do while you check the bearings and make sure things are clean. Perhaps the lesson is to change them every 18 months or so, since they are cheap.

As an added bonus: bearings were clean, and so was the engagement area. I use tons of grease as a barrier, and filled the bearings with grease as well. The grease was relatively clean and fluid. There was no evidence of water, despite the fact that I had just moments before sprayed everything directly with hot water from the showerhead in the bathtub


----------



## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

My hub creaks when applying hard, out-of-seat power. For me it's caused by water getting in the hub. It's usually about 2 weeks after a rain ride, or deep creek crossing before the noise starts. When I take it apart, I find a little bit of water in there, even if a few months have passed since the hub got wet.
A quick hub overhaul gets things quiet again.

I'll have to start checking the pawls. I hadn't realized they are wear and tear items, but it makes sense.


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Yeah, just to be on the safe side. My pawls look good, although polished at the tips on the sliding faces, but I think the springs are more wear and tear than anything else.

As far as water intrusion, I would try to grease every surface, including bearing faces, endcaps, and the main freehub seal. To date, I have not had water intrusion in the back, or at least anything to speak of that would be beyond condensation moisture, but like I said, everything that's a barrier between the inside and outside is greased thoroughly.


----------



## chinaman (Jun 8, 2007)

recently swapped the axel to a 12mm and noticed a broken spring ...








just wear and tear ...

but i did note that the inside was well greased up and no contaminants or water ... bottom line ... grease it up to prevent any dirt or muck getting in ... :thumbsup:


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

I think broken ProII springs do happen, as I've read some CRC.com reviews as well. Perhaps Hope can either work on a more fatigue-resistant material,or something thicker. In my case, nearly two years of usage is pretty good, with the longest part of the service being the exterior cleaning.


----------



## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

*mine broke*

All 4 of my pawl springs broke during one ride- and I've only had this hub for 7 months!
wtf!


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Call or email Hope.


----------



## refreshinglygood (Apr 15, 2006)

thats gotta be a rarity


----------



## dtism (Nov 17, 2008)

Thanks for that, very useful, might attempt that conversion at some point over the winter 

I inadvertently got to see the ratchet and pawl bit of my rear hub yesterday when I had to fit a couple of new spokes. I was trying to get the cassette of the freehub body and it wouldn't budge, then suddenly the whole thing just pops out. I was a bit worried I'd broken it to be honest but it seemed to go back together easy enough.

However I don't know what I did wrong, but now the freehub doesn't run so smooth, the cranks still spin when I feewheel, and backpedalling causes my chain to slacken big time. Do you reckon it just needs a clean and re-grease?

*edit* Ah, just re read the thread and seen that drag can be the result of a seal being not properly seated.


----------



## ionsmuse (Jul 14, 2005)

JC, thanks for the beta. Cleaned and regreased the 2+ year old SS/trials hub in about 15 minutes. Almost easier than changing a tire. 

I used a bit of Phil grease on the teeth, and some lighter lube on the springs. Went back together and sounds good as ever.

And no tools required!


----------



## ebxtreme (Jan 6, 2004)

*Ok......in the middle of this.*

I've got the two end caps off and the hub body removed. I'm trying to get the axle out by tapping it from the rotor side. I started to wail on it but thought I might want to consult this thread to ensure I'm not missing something.

Any tips or secrets to this? Do I even need to remove the axle for a basic cleaning/overhaul?

Cheers,
EB


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Nope, not needed. Unless you want to get everything in one shot, however. If you're worried about it being wet inside or gunked up.

The axle will pop right out with a bearing, depending on which side you start tapping from. No big deal.


----------



## beeglemania (Jul 10, 2008)

There is no seal between the freewheel bearing and the end cap? I took my hub apart and thought something was missing until I saw your pic here. It seems this bearing would be vulnerable to water and muck.


----------



## yeti rider (Dec 11, 2008)

Cheers I think I'll have a go at this.

Hope also have video's here
http://www.hopegb.com/page_mep_force_4.html


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Just pulled this up as Ionmuse's thread on the 29er forum got bumped about servicing the hubs regularly. I found a broken spring and I've only had mine for about 7 months also, but I've been impressed with it's performance to date and the engagement has surely improved my abilities in tech area where you need to rachet a lot in small increments.

Got a ? for any who can help.......Anyone own the SS/trials version of this hub? I have a few question about this specific version, namely - I thought it had more engagement than the normal hub, but I count 4 pawls and 24 engagement points, so same as the normal one :???: Also with the bolt on SS/trials version does the axle tap out the same way? Can't find any schematics of it on Hope's site and they don't even list it, only a QR SS/trials :???:

Oh and last but not least - thanks JC, great thread, gives many the confidence needed to ppop it open and find out that it's easier to service this than set up most tyres tubeless


----------



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

LyNx said:


> Just pulled this up as Ionmuse's thread on the 29er forum got bumped about servicing the hubs regularly. I found a broken spring and I've only had mine for about 7 months also, but I've been impressed with it's performance to date and the engagement has surely improved my abilities in tech area where you need to rachet a lot in small increments.
> 
> Got a ? for any who can help.......Anyone own the SS/trials version of this hub? I have a few question about this specific version, namely - I thought it had more engagement than the normal hub, but I count 4 pawls and 24 engagement points, so same as the normal one :???: Also with the bolt on SS/trials version does the axle tap out the same way? Can't find any schematics of it on Hope's site and they don't even list it, only a QR SS/trials :???:
> 
> Oh and last but not least - thanks JC, great thread, gives many the confidence needed to ppop it open and find out that it's easier to service this than set up most tyres tubeless


I don't own one, but I know the pawls on the SS hub are offset, so you get more engagement points, but only 2 pawls are engaged at a time.

AFAIK, the axle in the SS hub should come out the same way as the standard one...


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

*Thanks Crisillo*

I asked as the internals look the same, but I definitely have some serious engagament with the SS/Trials hub compared to a normal one and couldn't figure it out. Also builds a dishless 29er wheel that can still run 6 cogs 



crisillo said:


> I don't own one, but I know the pawls on the SS hub are offset, so you get more engagement points, but only 2 pawls are engaged at a time.
> 
> AFAIK, the axle in the SS hub should come out the same way as the standard one...


----------



## steel4real (Feb 14, 2007)

I can conform that the bolt up axle comes out in exactly the same way as I have one and have had a QR one as well. :thumbsup: 

Yes, the leaf springs seem to break quite easily, one of mine broke after about 12 months, I replaced all 4 as I figured the others would go as well. They don't cost much. Don't seem to last anywhere near as long as the coil springs in hope XC hubs.

Neither do the bearings !  

Don't know about the engagement but I think what the guy says above is correct about the offset.


----------



## zephyr11 (Nov 8, 2007)

this is what happened to mine after 8 mths, didn't do anything i shouldn't with these...
just found it going softer and softer, so soft that i almost forgot i am riding hope hubs, brought it to the shop and have a look.

even my mech says he hasn't seen something like that, usually max at 1 time is only 2 broken ones.



















BRAND NEW REPLACEMENTS


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Wow, I had two broken in mine at 22 months. I really wouldn't mind beefed up springs, just for piece of mind.


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Just wanted to update this thread with this................As I posted I decided to take apart my Pro2 SS/Trials hub and inspect it and found a broken spring, so I e-mailed Hope that very Sunday afternoon _(Feb 15th)_ and got a reply back on Monday morning asking for a mailing address. Well today a nice little foam padded envelope arrived containing some replacement springs :thumbsup: It was posted out on the 18th February and as usual with mail down here it took long, but thats not Hope's fault.

I'd say I'm impressed with that CS, pretty damn good service IMHO :thumbsup:


----------



## rtl000 (Feb 18, 2008)

*No Hope of a rebuild on this one*

Climbing out of a dry creek bed yesterday there was a very loud crack from the rear wheel. This was the result :-(


----------



## markw1970 (Oct 8, 2007)

rtl000, ooh nasty... No hope with that one. Why are there all the cut marks on the freewheel body where the cassette slides on? Could that be the cause of the split? Mine doesn't have any cuts here - I use an XT cassette which comes on it's own black 'mounting' thingy (someone will correct my terminology for sure).


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Why are there notches in the spaces of the body in between the pawls?

I'm not going to dispute the failure. However, something is looking very "off", to say the least. First issue being the deep dig marks due to not using a cassette on a full carrier. They go extremely deep, enough to jam the cassette on.

Then the time comes to remove or replace the cassette, and that's where a B.F. Wrench comes in, thus leaving the marks in between the pawls. I wonder if this hand anything to do with the cracks.


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Seriously, I looked at this this morning and was going to mention using a non carrier cassette and gouging the freehub that bad, but didn't really notice the gouges on the body between the pawls - _trying to figure out how they got there since that rea doesn't contact anywhere_ :???: May be as JC said you took the freehub off with cassette attached and then used a BF wrench to hold the freehub and remove the cassette. I don't use a cassette now unless it's one that uses a carrier body for this very reason.



Jerk_Chicken said:


> Why are there notches in the spaces of the body in between the pawls?
> 
> I'm not going to dispute the failure. However, something is looking very "off", to say the least. First issue being the deep dig marks due to not using a cassette on a full carrier. They go extremely deep, enough to jam the cassette on.
> 
> Then the time comes to remove or replace the cassette, and that's where a B.F. Wrench comes in, thus leaving the marks in between the pawls. I wonder if this hand anything to do with the cracks.


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Looks like two springs are broken too, but can't tell for sure.


----------



## Bubba74 (Feb 8, 2007)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> Why are there notches in the spaces of the body in between the pawls?


IMHO, it looks like when the body cracked, it moved outward to contact the outer ring and grind the metal. My two cents.


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Not possible. It wouldn't be notched then.

The evidence is there that it was definitely held either by pliers, pipewrench, vise, or something similar in order to get the cassette off.

The freehub broke, no doubt, but it would be interesting to see if that was a contributor.


----------



## Bubba74 (Feb 8, 2007)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> Not possible. It wouldn't be notched then.


..unless the hub came to a screeching halt. You know more about this hub and the mechanics of than I do for sure. It's just strange that the notches are about the same width apart as the teeth on the ring. Also, notice the notches don't seem to be on opposite sides which would be present from a wrench.

Either way, I'm glad my Pro II hub doesn't look like this. Rough....


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

There looks to be wear from what your speaking of on the smooth side between the fractures. That is likely in this case, but the others are notches, dug in real deep. That's from using a tool on the freehub.


----------



## Bubba74 (Feb 8, 2007)

...Makes me glad I have cassette with a carrier. BTW you guide was great, I converted my hub from QR to 10mm bolt on with ease. Very simple


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

No problem. For you guys that don't use carriers, and/or are really tough on components with weight or power, Hope offers a stainless hub. Last I checked was 07 and it was under $80US.

I will likely move over to it in the future. I don't know if it comes with pawls and bearings, however.


----------



## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Bubba74 said:


> ... BTW you guide was great, I converted my hub from QR to 10mm bolt on with ease. Very simple


Can you show me this please? Got one for the front hub also?

Thanks!

.
.


----------



## Bubba74 (Feb 8, 2007)

I took no pics. I did exactly what the beginning of this thread showed. It looked no different from the pics provided. Where you looking for something in particular?


----------



## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Bubba74 said:


> Where you looking for something in particular?


Sorry, forgot what was in the thread, read it along time ago!

Do I need to buy a new 10mm axle to do the swap, or can the old one be modified? Cost for the new axle?

Anyone modify the front axle/caps yet to take a 9mm RTS?

.
.


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Comes stock with the SS/Trials version  so no worries for me  But I've had the bite marks on an alu carrier before the Hopes using a PG970 and LX casette and vowed never to use them again on anything I care about.



Jerk_Chicken said:


> No problem. For you guys that don't use carriers, and/or are really tough on components with weight or power, Hope offers a stainless hub. Last I checked was 07 and it was under $80US.
> 
> I will likely move over to it in the future. I don't know if it comes with pawls and bearings, however.


There is no need for anything but new end caps to allow the full 10mm axle on the rear and then what ever you chose to use - _DT RWS or anything else you find like that_. As to if anyone's done the front - can't even count how many have done it, so much so that Hope has listened and is soon offering these end caps also - _so there'll be 5mm, 9mm, 10mm, 12mm, 20mm end caps._



scottay said:


> Sorry, forgot what was in the thread, read it along time ago!
> 
> Do I need to buy a new 10mm axle to do the swap, or can the old one be modified? Cost for the new axle?
> 
> ...


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

The standard cassette SS freehub is NOT the same as the trials freehub.


----------



## Bubba74 (Feb 8, 2007)

scottay said:


> Do I need to buy a new 10mm axle to do the swap, or can the old one be modified? Cost for the new axle?


I bought the 10mm bolt on conversion that looks like this...

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/HU294Z00-Hope+Rear+Hub+Bolt-On+End+Caps.aspx

It comes with a different end caps and a different axle that is threaded for the bolts. You need to swap one of the axle bearings from the QR axle to the bolt on axle (like the posts above mention).

If you buy the QR to 10mm thru-bolt conversion ($41.99 at Jenson), you do not need to swap the axle out, just the end caps. You will still need to buy a 10mm axle like the DT RWS, so this conversion costs more. The advantage is that it is quicker to remove the rear wheel, but that's about it.


----------



## rtl000 (Feb 18, 2008)

> Why are there all the cut marks on the freewheel body where the cassette slides on? 

As mentioned by others that was the result of naively using a cheap cassette prior to upgrading to xt.

> but didn't really notice the gouges on the body between the pawls

Same here. This is the first time I've pulled it apart and I definitely did not use anything at all on the freehub, I followed JC's excellent instructions and had very little trouble getting it apart. Even the cassette came off with only a little leverage while the freehub was still on the wheel.

The lbs that fitted the full xt mentioned they had a lot of trouble getting the previous cassette off - but did *not* mention gouging the body that way - I will check!

I doubt anyone will be able to say for certain if those marks contributed in any way, but given where the cracks start I don't think it was a major contributor. Although, thinking on it, if they used a vice or something that exerted a lot of compressive force then maybe I'll be saving some postage sending it back to the UK, but paying for the steel replacement myself :-( ... or discussing(!) it with the lbs at least.

> Looks like two springs are broken too, but can't tell for sure.

Well spotted!


----------



## rtl000 (Feb 18, 2008)

> Originally Posted by *Jerk_Chicken*
> _For you guys that don't use carriers, and/or are really tough on components with weight or power, Hope offers a stainless hub_


CRC list a steel replacement for ~$US65 not sure if it is stainless though - 
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=25986


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Really, didn't know that, thought they were one and the same :???: What's the differenc ebetween the 2 then, if you don't mind? Curious as the Hope site, well, sucks for info.



Jerk_Chicken said:


> The standard cassette SS freehub is NOT the same as the trials freehub.


----------



## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

LyNx said:


> As to if anyone's done the front - can't even count how many have done it, .[/I]


Thanks for the info. Any info on how they converted/modified the front to 9mm? Thanks!
.
.


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Normally a Drill Press using a 9mm bit. If I can dig up the thread a guy posted up a sort of tutorial on it.



scottay said:


> Thanks for the info. Any info on how they converted/modified the front to 9mm? Thanks!
> .
> .


----------



## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

okay, thanks. How do you tighten the caps back onto the the hub? Dont you drill out the internal hex/flats?

.


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

9mm end caps are press fit using an o-ring to keep them in place, so nothing there gets troubled.



scottay said:


> okay, thanks. How do you tighten the caps back onto the the hub? Dont you drill out the internal hex/flats?
> 
> .


----------



## rtl000 (Feb 18, 2008)

rtl000 said:


> The lbs that fitted the full xt mentioned they had a lot of trouble getting the previous cassette off - but did *not* mention gouging the body that way - I will check!


The lbs says they did not pull the hub apart at all and only used a chain whip on the sprockets to loosen them.

In which case I'm not sure where the marks came from, I can only guess they were made when the hub broke, which might explain why they match the teeth on the ring as suggested by Bubba74.


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

I would have to say they are not telling the truth, judging by how far the teeth are dug into the body. 

A chainwhip will not loosen them. There's a contrast between the broken side, and the others. It was definitely placed in some sort of clamping device. The broken side has smooth wear, indicative of the scenario you mention, but the other side definitely has tooth marks from some jawed tool. The explanation from Bubba is flawed simply because those types of deep serration marks won't be made by the toothed ring inside.


----------



## banksd1983 (Jun 18, 2007)

Lynx said:


> Also builds a dishless 29er wheel that can still run *8* cogs


fixed for ya


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Really :skep: Do you have pics of your setup?



banksd1983 said:


> fixed for ya


----------



## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

scottay said:


> How do you tighten the caps back onto the the hub? Dont you drill out the internal hex/flats?
> 
> .


Oh....I was looking at Bulb front axle. Anyone know if a Bulb axle will fit a Pro.2?

,


----------



## banksd1983 (Jun 18, 2007)

not my setup though, another local

stock









after









done











> Also with an XT cassette goes: 11-12-15-[17-20-23-26-30-34]
> I didn't want a jump from 11-15, so I swapped out my 15 for a 14t. No the lower 6 cogs all have a consistent 3-tooth jump.


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

So my theory was right, but didn't thinit had enough room to accomodate 2 more cogs  interesting :thumbsup: had this planned but was going for a 7spd.


banksd1983 said:


> not my setup though, another local
> 
> done


----------



## Monte (Dec 20, 2003)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> There looks to be wear from what your speaking of on the smooth side between the fractures. That is likely in this case, but the others are notches, dug in real deep. That's from using a tool on the freehub.


Which notches are you talking about from a tool? I see notches in the freehub body from a cassette and notches between the pawls from the "24 tooth ratchet", part HUB518 because when it split it expanded into the ratchet teeth.


----------



## jonathan_sykes81 (Feb 4, 2007)

Didn't feel like reading all of this but I can say this from personal experience. The "notches" in between the pawls on the freehub are NOT from pliers or any other "tool" for that matter. They are indeed from the teeth on the inside of the hub that the pawls mesh with to drive the wheel(see pics below). When the freehub cracks this becomes the result. It happened to me twice before Hope sent me the stainless freehub, then I exploded the 2 bearings that the inner part of the freehub rides on, also twice(it did not do any damage to the stainless freehub body though). Then I got smart and ordered up some really nice bearings to replace the apparently not very high quality stock ones that Hope uses and haven't had a problem since. In my opinion I believe the original failures were caused by the stock bearings failing which in turn caused uneven torque to the inner freehub body which caused the crack. I tried to have a discussion about this with the representative from Hope USA and he clearly didn't care what I had to say. At least he sent me new parts fast and free. On my new wheelset I used DT Swiss 240S hubs because of the problems I had with Hope.
Failure #1

Failure #2


----------



## esilvassy (Jul 25, 2006)

I was at my LBS yesterday working on my Spinergy freehub and they just had a Hope wheel come it with the same marks between the pawls. This freehub body was not broken, but the owner did break an axle in the past. The area where the pawls go was all goofed up though so he is getting a new body. So I bet those marks are just from the teeth on the ratchet ring plus some breakage that allows the area between the pawls to make contact (either axle or freehub body so far)


----------



## Justanuthabika (Feb 24, 2004)

One would think, that with all of the friction it takes for the ratchet to wear into the freehub body that way, that there would be tell tale signs of a problem ie; lateral play in the freehub under pedal load, or at least an extra noisy grinding, or pinging sound at some point, or even a kind of siezing of the body. Crazy


----------



## markw1970 (Oct 8, 2007)

Justanuthabika said:


> One would think, that with all of the friction it takes for the ratchet to wear into the freehub body that way, that there would be tell tale signs of a problem ie; lateral play in the freehub under pedal load, or at least an extra noisy grinding, or pinging sound at some point, or even a kind of siezing of the body. Crazy


I thought that too... Amazing how parts can get destroyed. I wonder what sort of gear choice was being used. I find, I spin low gears almost always - I'm sure I don't put enough torque through the cranks to do that sort of damage.


----------



## jonathan_sykes81 (Feb 4, 2007)

Justanuthabika said:


> One would think, that with all of the friction it takes for the ratchet to wear into the freehub body that way, that there would be tell tale signs of a problem ie; lateral play in the freehub under pedal load, or at least an extra noisy grinding, or pinging sound at some point, or even a kind of siezing of the body. Crazy


The only time that the freehub gets worn that way is when the bearings of freehub body itself fails. The wear is caused by the freehub being allowed to move outside of it's intended motion ie: no bearing to support it therefore when pedaling it is pulled toward the cranks which in turn causes it to contact the ratchet ring. Typically this failure is detectable by slack in the top of the chain when freewheeling or at the time of failure by a loud popping sound followed by a different(not normal) sound coming from the hub. Also, when pedaling you can't detect the freehub body moving so the only "tell tale" signs are what I have already listed.


----------



## mvi (Jan 15, 2004)

So if I have play on the rear Hope hub, do I need a new bearing?


----------



## rtl000 (Feb 18, 2008)

*Stainless Hope Pro II freehub replacement*

Thanks to Hope UK (via CRC) for the warranty replacement of the broken freehub pictured a few posts back.

They even substituted a stainless steel version, so hopefully it won't happen again.


----------



## Sfgraham2 (Feb 27, 2005)

Thank you! I just bought my hub, installed today and dragged right off the bat. Reseated the seal and bingo!!!
:thumbsup:



marcus_dukakis said:


> JC - just a note - I had trouble re-seating the main seal between the freehub body and the hub shell. I couldn't just push the two together and get a good seal. The solution was to seat one half of this seal, and then use the blunt end of teaspoon to pop the remaining edges of the seal into place, while ensuring that a little bit of pressure was being applied to the freehub at the same time.
> 
> It's easy to tell if the seal hasn't seated properly as you will get crazy amounts of drag from the freehub.
> 
> Hope this helps someone - it took me about 2 hours and several hub re-assemblies to figure it out. My main seal was a very hard plastic and seemed a little on the large side. Took about 5 minutes once I worked out how to do it.


----------



## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

My hope's came with a silver freehub as opposed to gold, does that mean that It's stainless?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

baltik, what's the hub weight? If it's just under 300 g, that's aluminum freehub on there (assuming you've got the plain 135 mm OLD Hope Pro 2, not the Trials one).


----------



## Sci Teach (Sep 16, 2005)

*Pro II front hub bearing removal*

Most excellent rebuild info on the rear hub.

Any advice on removing the bearings from the front hub? Thinking it is time for replacing these after 2 years.

Upon removing the end caps, there is very little inner race to work with (a mm at best) and I really can't figure out how to get these out.


----------



## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

J. Random Psycho said:


> baltik, what's the hub weight? If it's just under 300 g, that's aluminum freehub on there (assuming you've got the plain 135 mm OLD Hope Pro 2, not the Trials one).


Unfortunately no way to weigh it as it cabe built as a wheel


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Sci Teach said:


> Most excellent rebuild info on the rear hub.
> 
> Any advice on removing the bearings from the front hub? Thinking it is time for replacing these after 2 years.
> 
> Upon removing the end caps, there is very little inner race to work with (a mm at best) and I really can't figure out how to get these out.


What one can do is remove the adapters, then use a small socket or other type of tool to cock crooked in the interspace between the bearings. Rest it against the opposite side bearing and tap out, making sure to go 360 degrees (in a more or less x pattern) to get them out without cocking in the bore. Repeat for the other side.


----------



## Sci Teach (Sep 16, 2005)

*Thanks!*

That's what I thought, but wanted to be sure there wasn't some other recipe for making it happen.

Thanks again!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

baltik, try lightly scratching the freehub with a needle (or some other sharp steel tool). It's much harder to leave a scratch on steel than on aluminum.

You could also remove the freehub and weigh it alone. If I recall correctly, the steel one is well above 100 g, and the aluminum one is well under 100 g.


----------



## 6thElement (Jul 17, 2006)

Or just get a magnet...


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Also, there are [magnetic] steel parts inside the freehub.


----------



## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

I've bought a new wheelset with Hope Pro II hubs and the rear hub has some play with only 3 rides on it...it's a 10mm bolt-up hub so it's not coming loose, I contacted Hope Uk and they told me to strip down the hub and do a search of the faulty item....I guess the most commont think to look for is a defective bearing??


----------



## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

btw Jerk Chicken, how did you get rid of the play and do you know what it was causing it??


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

I simply took it apart, and put it back together, as indicated. It was probably just bearings and thrust surfaces wearing in.


----------



## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

so do you replace bearings and the play was gone?? I'm checking bearings on mine (but the hub has only 3 rides!!) and I "suspect" that one of them may be the guilty one but I'm not sure, I'll replace it and see if the play disspears...


Jerk_Chicken said:


> I simply took it apart, and put it back together, as indicated. It was probably just bearings and thrust surfaces wearing in.


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

I never replaced the bearings. I said, "it was probably the bearings and thrust surfaces wearing in".

Check out post #1. It shows what I did.


----------



## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

Okay, JC cheers for your help!:thumbsup: 


Jerk_Chicken said:


> I never replaced the bearings. I said, "it was probably the bearings and thrust surfaces wearing in".
> 
> Check out post #1. It shows what I did.


----------



## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

Just an update....I've been told by Hope UK (great CS!!!) that they have stronger springs for the freehub, they are sending me some so I`ll take some pics when they get here...


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Update:

I wanted to apologize to the poster whom I thought had a tool used to mark the freehub, such as pliers.

I recently inspected my own freehub before an upcoming multi-country bike trip, and I had the same notches between two pawls. There was also deformation about the pivots for a couple pawls, and the ano was lightened, denoting that. The pawls also appeared to sit loose and on the last two rides, I experienced a bunch of creaking. I contacted Hope UK, sent my freehub in, and their service was nothing short of fantastic. They owed me absolutely nothing, and I made sure they knew I wasn't looking for a freebie. I'm so glad I went with Hope. I've so far had fantastic service from the US and UK offices.

As far as the notching goes, it is possible the freehub can contact the ratchet teeth, either through flexing and uneven loading when a pawl breaks, or possibly through axle flex during uneven loading. In my case, all of my pawls were still there, as were the springs, but it was likely due to the deformation that was initiated when I had two broken springs.

Hope has also confirmed the use of stronger springs now. I should get my freehub in time for my vacation this weekend.


----------



## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

BTW - I have an extra 10mm conversion kit (the bolt on kind) still new if anyone is in the market.


----------



## 2silent (Dec 19, 2008)

this is likely a really dumb question (and a couple better ones)-

I swapped to a new 990 SRAM cassette from the 970. While I was in there I noticed I had one broken spring- so I will have to order new springs/pawls... where is the best place to do that from here in the states?

In the meantime I put it back together and... it spins very very poorly. The freehub seems to function properly when there is no pressure on it, but as soon as I put it on the bike it tightens up and hardly moves at all. Are these the symptoms of not getting the main seal together?

Lastly, I had major marks on the splines from using the SRAM 970 cassette for just 300 miles or so and it was very hard to get the cassette off. Should I be considering replacing the freehub?

thanks

-Drew


----------



## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

2silent said:


> In the meantime I put it back together and... it spins very very poorly. The freehub seems to function properly when there is no pressure on it, but as soon as I put it on the bike it tightens up and hardly moves at all. Are these the symptoms of not getting the main seal together?


It sounds like it, yes. I had this exact problem when I took mine apart recently. I used the kind of pointy end of a tire lever to force the seal back into place.


----------



## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

You didn't get the seal behind the freehub seated properly. As far as ordering the springs, I think you can contact Hope and they will send you a new set.


----------



## JmZ (Jan 10, 2004)

2silent said:


> this is likely a really dumb question (and a couple better ones)-
> 
> I swapped to a new 990 SRAM cassette from the 970. While I was in there I noticed I had one broken spring- so I will have to order new springs/pawls... where is the best place to do that from here in the states?
> 
> ...


There is a steel freehub out there for the Hope's. I have one installed (it was done at the time of the wheel build). Adds a couple of ounces, but won't get marked up. And the 990 will help out, it's got more cogs on the carrier - right?

You can look at the existing freehub as 'pre-gouged' and just file down the worst bits. Otherwise if you get a new one, it can develop the same notches.

JmZ


----------



## 2silent (Dec 19, 2008)

thanks to all- I got it pushed down and it's spinning better.

Looks like time for full rebuild anyways- it was used prior to my 300 miles or so


----------



## skellz (Sep 26, 2006)

i got some of these hubs/wheelsets a month or so ago.
will take them apart soon and chek all is ok.

great informative thread.. cheers


----------



## mvi (Jan 15, 2004)

My Hope 2 rear hub has the axle stuck (being unable to rotate). The end caps came off smoothly, but I am unable to remove the cassette body, even after soaking in oil. Any tips? More force?


----------



## mvi (Jan 15, 2004)

Got it. Put a quarter under the lockring and tapped it off with the skewer. Pretty big mess inside.


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

I received my new freehub last night. The new springs are no doubt thicker and stronger, so wait until you hear the sound...

Also, make sure upon receipt of wheels or hubs or freehub, you check especially the outer bearings. I checked the (large) outer bearing on the freehub and it had barely any lube in it. It didn't feel as smooth as it could have. So I packed it with wheelbearing grease, as I did when the wheels were new. Same for the (small) inner bearing, though it was well-lubed, but not packed, like I prefer. Then grease the outside of the bearing, under the endcap, and that will prevent dirt and water intrusion.

Also, grease the freehub ridge the seal goes in, as that's a friction surface, but also the grease will prevent water contamination.

Overall, Hope is a really good company to deal with and the communication was excellent.


----------



## ZGOZZ (Jun 9, 2009)

How offten do you have to do PM on the hubs, sorry for the newbie question..


----------



## VheelundShproket (Jul 24, 2009)

/sigh

A tragedy it is that this type of in-depth knowledge is forever lost due to the whims and desires of manufacturers and their lapdogs.

How many people did this thread help?


----------



## skellz (Sep 26, 2006)

helped me. 
knowing i spend money on somthing that may die

i emailed hope uk and told them i saw heavy marking on my hub thingy..(soz cant rememvber the actual name of the component)
they told me to F'''OFF..and will be £50 odd kwid as and when i break it

not busted yet.. still love them....


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Hope Pro 2 are my default choice of hubs (either front of rear), and that's partially because of this thread. I had a Pro 2 hub set even before this thread existed - and I bought 3 more Pro 2 hubs since then. Let's see:

2 x Hope Pro 2 front hubs, with one set of 9 mm QR, one set of 9 mm RWS and 2 sets of 20 mm adapters;
2 x Hope Pro 2 rear hubs, one QR, the other 10 mm RWS converted;
1 x Hope Pro 2 Trials hub.

And Hopefully more of the same to come. )


----------



## DiDaDunlop (Oct 22, 2005)

I recently noticed some play on the freewheel body of my proII singlespeed hub. So i took it apart.

I also had the notches on the inside. And i found this:










One bearing of the freehub was completely destroyed. There fore there was some play and because of the play the teeth of the hubshell dig into the freehub body. And that is stationary because they only make contact under power and locked. So you get even more points of engagement.....

Does anybode have experience with removing and installing the bearing on the freewheel?


----------



## DiDaDunlop (Oct 22, 2005)

wrong copy paste.

I meant this:


----------



## Bubba74 (Feb 8, 2007)

*Re-greasing bearings?*



Jerk_Chicken said:


> As an added bonus: bearings were clean, and so was the engagement area. I use tons of grease as a barrier, and filled the bearings with grease as well. The grease was relatively clean and fluid. There was no evidence of water, despite the fact that I had just moments before sprayed everything directly with hot water from the showerhead in the bathtub


I have my Pro II hub apart and I am doing a cleaning before a two week trip. My question is: are the factory bearing seals able to be popped off to put more grease in the bearing? I've seen other ball bearings before that have a small notch on the seals so you can use a small flathead screw driver to pop the seal. I did not see it on the hope bearings.

Will I wreck the bearing seals if I attempt to overhaul?


----------



## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

Bubba74 said:


> I have my Pro II hub apart and I am doing a cleaning before a two week trip. My question is: are the factory bearing seals able to be popped off to put more grease in the bearing? I've seen other ball bearings before that have a small notch on the seals so you can use a small flathead screw driver to pop the seal. I did not see it on the hope bearings.
> 
> Will I wreck the bearing seals if I attempt to overhaul?


I haven't attempted an overhaul of my Pro II hub yet, but I have regreased a number of other similar bearings. I usually use the tip of a sharp knive (X-Acto or even a box cutter) to pry the seal up.

I also try to clean as much of the old grease out as possible. I usually spray in a bit of Triflow, which does a pretty good job of dissolving the grease. (I've also heard of folks using rubbing alcohol. I'll probably do that in the future.) After that I blow the residue out with an air compressor. Once that's done, the bearing is ready for new grease. Just press the seals back in once the new grease is in.


----------



## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

Bubba74 said:


> I have my Pro II hub apart and I am doing a cleaning before a two week trip. My question is: are the factory bearing seals able to be popped off to put more grease in the bearing? I've seen other ball bearings before that have a small notch on the seals so you can use a small flathead screw driver to pop the seal. I did not see it on the hope bearings.
> 
> Will I wreck the bearing seals if I attempt to overhaul?


I did mine and saw no damage using a small sharp blade on a knive at the center (axle) of the bearing seal. Checked them, added some grease, pushed the seal back in to make sure it was seated around both edges. I also add a thin grease layer on the outside of the seal just for insurance against water / dust entry. I pulled the hub open to look at it last week (since I am waiting for a warranty replacement frame) and all is perfect.


----------



## Bubba74 (Feb 8, 2007)

Thanks for the info. I pulled the seals off, added grease to the already clean races and resealed. I cleaned the whole assembly and put everything back together. It's workin like a charm and smoother than ever


----------



## MrEconomics (Aug 23, 2004)

Okay guys, WTF did I do? Here's the scoop: I took off end caps, which I did earlier today with no issues but put back on because I wasn't sure how to take free hub off. So tonight, I try again and after the mercy of GOD I got the free hub off. I cleaned and greased. I put free hub body back on and that side end cap on. The non drive side end cap doesn't want to go on. It took a rubber mallet to get it on. Didn't have this problem earlier. Now when I put wheel back on, the free wheel doesn't work. The QR is pinching something so I can't pedal backwards at all. Goes forward no issue. 

I watched the video and these picks. I did not do anything to axel or bearings. Just cleaned out hub and regreased. 

Help.


----------



## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

Guppie58 said:


> Now when I put wheel back on, the free wheel doesn't work. The QR is pinching something so I can't pedal backwards at all. Goes forward no issue.


It takes a bit effort to push the freehub seal fully back into place. I had exactly the same problem when I cleaned/lubed my freehub a few months ago. I ended up using a tire lever to push it back into place.


----------



## Bubba74 (Feb 8, 2007)

Guppie58 said:


> Now when I put wheel back on, the free wheel doesn't work. The QR is pinching something so I can't pedal backwards at all. Goes forward no issue.


I'm not sure about the other issues you are having. The only question I have is are you sure the thick o-ring is between the axle bearing and the freehub bearing?


----------



## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Like KevinB said, the Hope hubs require a little extra effort when seating the seal on the freehub. Grease up the neoprene gasket and push it toward the center real hard.


----------



## MrEconomics (Aug 23, 2004)

https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1001/524784481_a1b63d882f_o.jpg

Okay, when I push the drive side QR end cap on and tighten the QR its pushing the the end cap against the bearing in the hub body, which I assume is causing the problem. I can pedal forward no problem but it won't move backwards at all. The diagram say's there is an o-ring but I don't remember seeing any O-rings and even in the pictures provided in the first post, there is no o-ring.

What's going on?


----------



## Bubba74 (Feb 8, 2007)

Part #9 is what I'm talking about. I should have used the term "spacer" because that's what it is. Even though the drive side end cap touches one of the freehub bearings, this should not be an issue. In fact when freewheeling (which you're hub is not doing right now) that bearing doesn't spin at all.

If the QR is putting pressure on the hub enough to cause it to malfunction, then your hub seems to be too wide i.e. - something is not pushed in far enough and rubbing is occurring. Is the plastic seal (part #10) properly seated in the hub and the freehub body?

A pic would be very helpful. Can you take some photos of it disassembled?


----------



## MrEconomics (Aug 23, 2004)

Images in order.

1. The three parts I took off.









2. Non-drive side with spacer removed.









3. Drive side with hub body removed.









4. Same as previous but with spacer inserted.









5 and 6. Hub body on with pictures of seal.

















7.End spacer on, fully assembled.









8. Non-drive side fully assembled
https://www.teamgupster.com/blog/uploads/hub/IMG_1128.jpg


----------



## Bubba74 (Feb 8, 2007)

Hmm everything looks correct. Maybe you can try putting the wheel on the ground so that the non drive cap is facing down. Then use a rubber mallet to lightly tap the other cap to make sure everything is seated properly. 

I'm not sure what the problem is. Hopefully someone else can chime in with advice.


----------



## MrEconomics (Aug 23, 2004)

Here's a video I made of it. As you can see the QR turns with it but if I hold the QR the free hub will barely turn. I wasn't able to hold a camera and the QR so I can't show you what happens if I hold QR but you can see how it turns with it. Nothing changes when it's mounted to the bike.

I just put it on Youtube since my previous link didn't work.


----------



## Bubba74 (Feb 8, 2007)

Strange. It appears as thought he drive side cap does not rotate freely from the freehub. It's supposed to. For some reason your end cap is binding on your freehub body. With the caps off, can the axle rotate freely?


----------



## LuizSalles (Oct 4, 2008)

doesn´t have the right and left end cap ? is the same end cap ?


----------



## MrEconomics (Aug 23, 2004)

there are seperate end caps (right and left). The hub rotates perfectly without the pressure of the QR.


----------



## Bubba74 (Feb 8, 2007)

Guppie58 said:


> there are seperate end caps (right and left). The hub rotates perfectly without the pressure of the QR.


That tells me that your end caps are not seated properly or all the way in. The drive side cap should almost click in. Did you try tapping the assemble like I said previously?


----------



## MrEconomics (Aug 23, 2004)

It's good to go after a little rubber mallet. Not sure what it was but works like a charm now. Your my hero of the day.


----------



## Bubba74 (Feb 8, 2007)

Glad to hear it


----------



## skellz (Sep 26, 2006)

Just upgraded to SS freehub body.Just because i wanted to.
It took about 15mins. with the help of this thread.


----------



## powking12 (Jun 19, 2008)

I'm experiencing a small problem. I did the axle swap (9mm-12mm) and rebuilt everything without a problem except... The freehub and seal doesn't "click" back into the hub body, it just slides on and sits there. 

On the Hope video the guy uses a special tool to get it to "click" back in. Recommendations?


----------



## Bikeon (Apr 17, 2008)

powking12 said:


> ... The freehub and seal doesn't "click" back into the hub body, it just slides on and sits there. On the Hope video the guy uses a special tool to get it to "click" back in. Recommendations?


Mayby use of flat thin screwdriver to settle a seal in it's place will help.


----------



## Simonns (Mar 25, 2004)

Bikeon said:


> Mayby use of flat thin screwdriver to settle a seal in it's place will help.


Yeah, Im having some issues with mine too. I can't get a good snap that other people are talking about when they attach the free hub to the shell. I thought I had it because I got it together without having any drag but after a ride the rear hub is pretty loose like the hub isn't attached anymore. I am wondering if maybe the bearings are not seated in far enough and because of that the free hub will not fit all the way. Im going to go look for a tool that I can use to seat the bearings better.

-Simon


----------



## Simonns (Mar 25, 2004)

Simonns said:


> Yeah, Im having some issues with mine too. I can't get a good snap that other people are talking about when they attach the free hub to the shell. I thought I had it because I got it together without having any drag but after a ride the rear hub is pretty loose like the hub isn't attached anymore. I am wondering if maybe the bearings are not seated in far enough and because of that the free hub will not fit all the way. Im going to go look for a tool that I can use to seat the bearings better.
> 
> -Simon


Nevermind, I spoke too soon. One of the bolts on my solid axle came loose. Once I tightened it up everything was solid.


----------



## sdcadbiker (Jun 20, 2008)

This thread has been incredibly useful! I use Hope Pro2 hubs and found this thread while browsing; it had never ocurred to me to service the hub (beeen ~18 months since new) but after reading this I opened her up and... 3 broken pawl springs :eekster: 

Email has been dispatched to Hope CS, hopefully they will be as helpful as everyone else reports. I'll pay more attention to that hub from now on...

This seems to be a common problem; you would think that Hope would maybe change the spring material or something... all of my springs had broken at the "barrel" interface, looks like a stress point.


----------



## sdcadbiker (Jun 20, 2008)

Update: New springs are on their way from Hope as warranty replacements; I ordered a spare set too just for insurance ($14). The Hope CS guy told me that the springs have been re-designed and no longer break as easily; we'll see!


----------



## MI-29er (Jun 5, 2009)

Very good thread!!! I should have searched for a thread like this awhile ago. Iam n the process off just cleaning and maintenance of my Hope Pro II rear hub. I posted what grease to use or oil. I emailed hope and they use Mobil XHP 222 grease. Anyway thanks for a great tutorial step by step. Looks like I will use grease not oil.


----------



## 6thElement (Jul 17, 2006)

sdcadbiker said:


> This thread has been incredibly useful! I use Hope Pro2 hubs and found this thread while browsing; it had never ocurred to me to service the hub (beeen ~18 months since new) but after reading this I opened her up and... 3 broken pawl springs :eekster:
> 
> Email has been dispatched to Hope CS, hopefully they will be as helpful as everyone else reports. I'll pay more attention to that hub from now on...
> 
> This seems to be a common problem; you would think that Hope would maybe change the spring material or something... all of my springs had broken at the "barrel" interface, looks like a stress point.


Got a feeling mine has some broken, it's getting opened up sometime this week for a look see.


----------



## banksd1983 (Jun 18, 2007)

Can anyone tell me what (and how many) specific bearings i'll need for a Pro II rear?

I thought it was 4, and they were all the same size, but on CRC I'm seeing a kit that has 4 but they're different sizes


----------



## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

banksd1983 said:


> Can anyone tell me what (and how many) specific bearings i'll need for a Pro II rear?
> 
> I thought it was 4, and they were all the same size, but on CRC I'm seeing a kit that has 4 but they're different sizes


There is the schematic from www.hopetech.com, LOCATION :: / Home / Tech Support / Hubs / Pro 2


----------

