# Cable routing. Dirt Drop. Non Aero brake levers.



## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

First I have to admit. If you have posted a dirt drop photo here on VRC, I have probably pilfered it to my hard drive. Not sure on ediquet (sp?) but If I am using your photo here and you don't want me to use it, please pm me and I will remove it.

my question is, *what is the proper brake cable routing on a dirt drop setup*?

In front of bars:

























or behind bars:

























I know we had this discussion recently:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=618976&highlight=cable+routing

but it was more road bike specific.

Every one of these bikes above look effective and good.

Does the horizontal length of the stem make a difference?

Am I putting way too much thought into my dirt drop project.

Appreciate your opinion.

Cheers,
T


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

For me, along with bar type and stem length it depends on control layout and the most efficient cable routing. In the end it is all about smooth transitions and keeping the cables away from my hands. The later really only comes into play if the bars allow for a riding position on the tops.


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

I just want to say that I am still in love with that yellow/green fade Ibis.


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## Jak0zilla (May 16, 2010)

Most of the time old road bikes routed them behind the bar, mostly (IMHO) to keep the radius of the curve smooth. I don't think there's anything _"wrong"_ with putting them in front of the bars if it puts them more out of your way. Try it both ways! Cables and housing are cheap. (Or at least they can be.)


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

whatever's smoother and shorter. a tall stem like an LD changes this vs a Cinelli style road stem....

for example, on my 'Ham there, imagine the cables running behind the bars and it'd add inches of length (and drag).

looking at other pictures here, brake lever placement makes a difference too.


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## SHADES (Feb 23, 2005)

I built my first drop bar ride in 1988, and I can honestly say that the pics you posted above are the first I've ever seen with the cables run behind the bars. Maybe I just never noticed before. Not saying that it's not "right", but it looks a bit odd. Can you imagine going over the bars and thinking you're clear...only to catch a toe on a cable?

rd


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## nightshade_rider (Apr 18, 2007)

Phew!! I'm glad my bike is not the only one with "behind the bars" routing. 

I swapped out the RM-3 bars for a set of RM-2s and used similar routing. What doesn't feel quite right with the new setup is the cable routing from the barcons. With the RM-3s, there was plenty of room to grab into the drops in braking position, but with the RM-2s there is now less clearance, you have to thread your fingers into position.

. I suppose I could have routed the shifter cable housing to exit the tape closer to the barcon, but I like the support that a few wraps of tape lends to the housing. I plan to re-route the housings by bringing them up the bar and exiting at the hoods like this one:

https://www.cunninghambikes.com/bicycles/31c.html

Hopefully that won't make riding the hoods uncomfortable, where I spend most of my time climbing. And I might try the more direct front of the bar brake cable routing given the more pronounced flare/cant of the RM-2s.








.


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## SHADES (Feb 23, 2005)

Nightshade - Check out the fourth photo down here http://salsacycles.com/culture/topic/Woodchipper/

jb


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

nightshade_rider said:


> Phew!! I'm glad my bike is not the only one with "behind the bars" routing.
> 
> I swapped out the RM-3 bars for a set of RM-2s and used similar routing. What doesn't feel quite right with the new setup is the cable routing from the barcons. With the RM-3s, there was plenty of room to grab into the drops in braking position, but with the RM-2s there is now less clearance, you have to thread your fingers into position.
> 
> ...


another option is to run the bar con cables under the tape all the way to the stem:


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Aemmer said:


>


How did you get the Shimano shifters to fit the drops?


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## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

CS2 said:


> How did you get the Shimano shifters to fit the drops?


Those are Suntour shifters.
They are mounted on special clamps/mounts that are designed for drop bars and put them in a better position.
Also, the stock clamps for those shifters work fine (in my experience) on either type of bar.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Shayne said:


> Those are Suntour shifters.
> They are mounted on special clamps/mounts that are designed for drop bars and put them in a better position.
> Also, the stock clamps for those shifters work fine (in my experience) on either type of bar.


I love the way those shifers look. Were they custom or can you still find them? I've got several sets of Shimano's version. I'll have to try them on a set of drops. Thanks for the reply.


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

CS2 said:


> I love the way those shifers look. Were they custom or can you still find them? I've got several sets of Shimano's version. I'll have to try them on a set of drops. Thanks for the reply.


No you can't. They are somewhat of a holy grail item. At least the originals are. The Kelly Take Off is a more modern interpretation but some feel it fails in some regards. Read this thread for any and all info you'll need.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=659324


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

CS2 said:


> I love the way those shifers look. Were they custom or can you still find them? I've got several sets of Shimano's version. I'll have to try them on a set of drops. Thanks for the reply.


Those are actually mine, they're not custom, just a stock shifter. They won't fit on drop bars with the stock clamp unless you modify them a bit. A road bar is 15/16" of an inch in dia. and a mtb bar is 7/8".

The shifter set up (the pieces that enable them to work on drop bars) you see there is a Suntour XC shifter mounted to a WTB "Sausage Link" drop bar mount. WTB supplied a different band that would reach around the fatter road bar and also work with Suntour's perch. The WTB part will be much harder to find than the shifter.


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Fillet-brazed said:


> Those are actually mine, they're not custom, just a stock shifter. They won't fit on drop bars with the stock clamp unless you modify them a bit. A road bar is 15/16" of an inch in dia. and a mtb bar is 7/8".
> 
> The shifter set up (the pieces that enable them to work on drop bars) you see there is a Suntour XC shifter mounted to a WTB "Sausage Link" drop bar mount. WTB supplied a different band that would reach around the fatter road bar and also work with Suntour's perch. The WTB part will be much harder to find than the shifter.


i suppose a band could be machined somewaht easily...


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Fillet-brazed said:


> Those are actually mine, they're not custom, just a stock shifter. They won't fit on drop bars with the stock clamp unless you modify them a bit. A road bar is 15/16" of an inch in dia. and a mtb bar is 7/8".
> 
> The shifter set up (the pieces that enable them to work on drop bars) you see there is a Suntour XC shifter mounted to a WTB "Sausage Link" drop bar mount. WTB supplied a different band that would reach around the fatter road bar and also work with Suntour's perch. The WTB part will be much harder to find than the shifter.


My bad on the shifters. I didn't notice they were the shrouded Suntour version. So, they basically have the adjustable band mount. I got them confused with Shimano's early XT shifter, which I have several sets of. That's what happens after 50, you loose your eye sight and hearing.

Has anyone ever reamed out an early XT shifter mount to fit a drop mount? There's a lot of meat on the mount. And it's not like it's a stressed part.


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

CS2 said:


> My bad on the shifters. I didn't notice they were the shrouded Suntour version. So, they basically have the adjustable band mount. I got them confused with Shimano's early XT shifter, which I have several sets of. That's what happens after 50, you loose your eye sight and hearing.
> 
> Has anyone ever reamed out an early XT shifter mount to fit a drop mount? There's a lot of meat on the mount. And it's not like it's a stressed part.


It's not just the mount's diameter that needs to be modified so that these work on drops, they need to be relocated as well, hence the other parts of WTB's shifter mount. The Sausage Link really is a simple piece though. The later M730 shifter mounts that WTB made are much more complex, but still used the slim Suntour perch.

The Deerhead shifter mount is so bulky compared to the Suntour's thin steel band that it probably wouldn't be ideal.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Fillet-brazed said:


> It's not just the mount's diameter that needs to be modified so that these work on drops, they need to be relocated as well, hence the other parts of WTB's shifter mount. The Sausage Link really is a simple piece though. The later M730 shifter mounts that WTB made are much more complex, but still used the slim Suntour perch.
> 
> The Deerhead shifter mount is so bulky compared to the Suntour's thin steel band that it probably wouldn't be ideal.


You're right about them being too bulky. But they do look nice polished up.

https://www.trek4fun.com/mountain_biking/shimano-sl-m700/shimano_m700_levers.htm


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

CS2 said:


> You're right about them being too bulky. But they do look nice polished up.
> 
> http://www.trek4fun.com/mountain_biking/shimano-sl-m700/shimano_m700_levers.htm


personally not a huge fan of the mirror like polish people put on vintage stuff nowadays.


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## WickedPhatChance (May 28, 2011)

Fillet-brazed said:


> personally not a huge fan of the mirror like polish people put on vintage stuff nowadays.


your wish is my command...


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