# YESS Products ETR-B tensioner product review



## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

for quite some time ive been recommending and referencing the yess etr-b, and numerous people have asked for more information and a real world report. so better late than never, here it is.

as you all know, most tensioners mount on the der hanger; and while some work, most are crap. the problem with the ones that work is a quick wheel removal/install. granted, with so many people running tubeless this may not be the problem that it once was, but even so imho der/axle mounted tensioners have always just been downright ugly and spoil the lines of the bike.

enter the product that i wish i would have thought of... the etr-b from yess products.

simple design...



















*INSTALLATION:*

there are no instructions included, but thats of no consequence since its very intuitive and the installation guide here is very comprehensive.

BEFORE installing the tensioner, the first step is to shorten the chain with the desired gearing in place. MAKE SURE that the chain is as short as you can get it. use a half link if needed. the chain should not come into contact with the chainstay. more on that shortly.

my installation...




























again, BEFORE installing the tensioner be SURE you do not have too much chain slack.

this is what improper chain length looks like...










you can clearly see how much slack the tensioner is taking up. this is too much, and you WILL get slap.

for the above pics i left the chain too long to illustrate the importance of correct chain length. this is what it looks like with the chain shortened correctly...










be sure to adjust the jockey wheel to the chainline, and youre ready to ride.

*RIDING IMPRESSION:*

can be summed up in one word... WOW!

to be verbose... best tensioner ever.

it is very quiet. no noticeable drag. doesnt skip or jump. doesnt throw or drop the chain even over the washboard and gnar-gnar stuff. just smooth and quiet. its one of those things that just works, and you dont even notice it doing its job.

it seems sturdier than even the beefiest bolt on dynamic rear tensioners, and is very solid when mounted. plus, with it tucked up under the cranks, it is protected from sticks and unintentional dismounts that would cripple/disable der/axle mounted tensioners.

wheel removal/install is a snap too.

*AESTHETICS:*

imho this is, by far, the best looking tensioner on the market. tucks up nice and neat out of the way, leaving the lines of the bike clean and smooth...




























*VALUE:*

at $60 it is not cheap. but then again its not cheap, if you know what i mean.  its a very well made tensioner that is well worth the money on multiple fronts.

imho its a great value.

*CONCLUSION:*

simple, quick installation. looks great. rides great. virtually silent. simple, quick wheel changes. what more could you want?

in fact, the bike pictured has cracked since these shots were taken so the etr-b is on the shelf waiting for the ss conversion of my superfly. will be much lighter than an eno rear wheel, and is much cheaper than the trickstuff excentricker (1/4 of the cost, to be exact).

the bottom line? if you need a tensioner for a hard tail, look no further. having both, i would definitely recommend their etr-b over their etr-v (a der/axle mounted tensioner). i recently got the full suspension kit for the etr-v and will be posting a review once the fs ss is completed. its not that the etr-v is a bad tensioner, its not. its just that the etr-b is that much better. 

in summary, the etr-b definitely gets a big :thumbsup: in my book.

<fontsize="1">disclaimer: i am not employed or in any way associated with yess products. in fact, we are not even a dealer of their products. this is simply an honest review in response to the numerous questions that have arisen from repeatedly referencing the product.</SIZE></fontsize="1">


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## DiDaDunlop (Oct 22, 2005)

Looks sweet. Does it also work with oldskool BB's (like the UN54 etc)? 

By the looks of it it is spring loaded. Is that correct?


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

DiDaDunlop said:


> Looks sweet. Does it also work with oldskool BB's (like the UN54 etc)?
> 
> By the looks of it it is spring loaded. Is that correct?


im assuming it would, but havent yet tried so i cant give a definite answer.

yes, spring loaded. very stout spring too.


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## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

by far, it looks better than hanger mounted tensioners. 

but my concern is tire clearance, riding in a muddy and dirty trails, we see how dirt gunk up on stays and every part of the frame where the tire rotates. having these tensioner running close to the tires and spring loaded, i would think that mud and dirt will accumulate there an make the tensioner rather fail.

one more minor flaw i think is when you do a lot of log clearing, part of the hanger and pulley is exposed enough of being knocked off or maybe just pushed inwards. maybe easily corrected if adjusted well hidden under the chainrings.

i haven't tried this tensioner yet so these comments are merely based upon observation.


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

fishcreek said:


> but my concern is tire clearance, riding in a muddy and dirty trails, we see how dirt gunk up on stays and every part of the frame where the tire rotates. having these tensioner running close to the tires and spring loaded, i would think that mud and dirt will accumulate there an make the tensioner rather fail.


although i dont have a bunch of time in the mud with it, i personally dont think that will be a problem. what time in the mud i did spend resulted in a minor amount on the tensioner, and i mean MINOR. as in not enough to do anything but soil it.

further, mud typically doesnt accumulate on the UNDER side of the chainstay, which is where the tensioner resides. also, the inner most part of the tensioner is outboard of the inner most face of the drive side chainstay, so it will not cause any interference or collect much muck from the rotating tyre. notice...










the chainstay should scrape or deflect any mud and prevent it from fouling the tensioner. also, the tensioner is very, very beefy and the spring is very robust, so even in the event of extreme mud conditions i wouldnt think it to be a detriment. in texas though, i dont get too many opportunities to put that reasoning to the test.



fishcreek said:


> one more minor flaw i think is when you do a lot of log clearing, part of the hanger and pulley is exposed enough of being knocked off or maybe just pushed inwards. maybe easily corrected if adjusted well hidden under the chainrings.


an excellent and astute observation. mounted at the angle shown, that could be a problem. however, you are right on the money that it can be easily corrected by simply rotating the tensioner up towards the chainstay slightly to get the lower most part of the tensioner well above the lowest point of the chainring.

problem solved!


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## bigwheelboy_490 (Jan 2, 2003)

Can you only use an external BB with this application? or will standard bb's work?


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## PeanutButterBreath (Oct 7, 2005)

*Best looking tensioner?*

That is like announcing that the kickstands that mount near the BB are much cleaner looking than those that mount near the axel.  Whichever someone might prefer, they are both fugly.

This doesn't seem to offer any functionality that has not been offered by something that is easier to install, lighter, has fewer parts and comes from a company with a much less dorky name.

And no, I don't have anything constructive to say.


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## dgaddis1 (Jul 1, 2007)

PeanutButterBreath said:


> This doesn't seem to offer any functionality that has not been offered by something that is easier to install, lighter, has fewer parts and comes from a company with a much less dorky name.


.....such as.....?

On another note, I have the ert-v on my recently single speed converted Giant Anthem (which is full suspension for those that might not know). I've logged right around 150 miles on it so far, and it's work great for the most part. It did start squeaking after getting really muddy, but a bit of lube fixed that. Also, the spring seemed to soften around the 100 mile mark...I had a few wrecks that ride and the chain fell off a few times. Adjusted the spring and it's been fine since. So far I'm very happy with how well it's performed!

However, I can't get my rear wheel off w/o taking the tensioner off. This is further complicated because of the design on my der. hanger....which is recessed a bit from the outtermost surface of the drop outs, which requires me to run a washer between the der. hanger and the tensioner, other wise the tensioner gets pulled crooked.

I'd still recommend it however, because it seems to be the best tensioner so far for full suspension frames.


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## dgaddis1 (Jul 1, 2007)

Here's my Anthem:


Here's a close up of the ETR-V


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## Dms1818 (May 10, 2006)

Awesome! I never should have sold my NiTi Frame!


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

Nice review.

I tried something like that back in 2005, using parts from a DH chain guide:
















It's not spring loaded like the YESS product, but works in the same way.

There were a few negatives I did not like with this setup.

- Tire clearance is small, mud from the tire interferes with the roller, if you ride in those conditions. The wider chain lines on the new external BB cranks help.
- Chain length needs to be close to ideal since you cannot take up much slack - less of an issue with 1/2 links (which were hard to find up here back then)
- damaged when grinding logs

With the above exception, it worked very well, and like Mono said, wheel removal was much easier than the dérailleur hanger mounted versions.

In the end, I preferred using a "poor-man's Eno" setup:








Similar issued with chain length (it covered a similar range as the BB mounted tensioner), but a cleaner conversion in my opinion. However, this required some DIY hacks.


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## ABQDave (Feb 25, 2005)

Nice review. Thanks.

Off thread alert. What gear ratio are you running and what brand of rings are those shown?

Many thanks :thumbsup:


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## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

Thank you for the review, monogod.

I had been looking at that tensioner myself recently and was going to try one, but you saved me the trouble of doing so... :thumbsup:






R.


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

Yeah, thanks for the cool review. That thing looks awesome... as tensioners go.

--Sparty


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

ABQDave said:


> What gear ratio are you running and what brand of rings are those shown?



32/20 or 32/19

surly stainless steel chainring.

niner al cog. (surly stainless cog in the pic of the chain too long)
i generally run surly or king stainless cogs because i make short work out of aluminum ones. just didnt have a 20t handy (they're on other bikes) so i threw on the niner.


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## rob1035 (Apr 20, 2007)

I was thinking over the weekend, this YESS tensioner would probably work well on modern _road_ bikes with have similar BBs, wouldn't it?


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

rob1035 said:


> I was thinking over the weekend, this YESS tensioner would probably work well on modern _road_ bikes with have similar BBs, wouldn't it?


absolutely! :thumbsup:


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Monogod, hope you don't mind, but I'm going to latch on to your review with a few observations of my own.

I recently installed a YESS ETR-B on a Cannondale MT2000 with a Speedhub.

I'm using square taper Shimano UN54 bottom bracket cartridges. The MT2000 frame has a 68mm shell width, and the ETR-B mounting bracket is exactly 2.5 millimeters thick. So it was a simple swap to a 73mm UN54 to make up for this difference, and maintain the original chainline.

Worth noting that the UN54 is not an E-type bottom bracket. It has a smaller flange than the external cup BB monogod shows in his photos. Despite this, once torqued to spec (50 ft-lbs) it hold on to the ETR-B rock solid.

Now for the problems.

*Problem #1 -* I had to be very close to the "magic combination" to remove any excess slack.

Rather than FixMeUp, I used the chain length calculator here: https://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/chain_length/chainlengthcalc.html

Starting with 38x16, I had 0.6" excess chain (50" versus a theoretical 49.4" chain requirement). With this combo, the tensioner just about touched the chain to the chainstay. There was no way this combo was going to work. I simulated throwing a half-link in there (resulting in 0.1" of excess chain), and even this got a little closer to the chainstay than I would have expected.

I ran the calculator for a number of gear combinations based on my 441mm chainstay length. I eventually settled on 40x16, which supposedly resulted in an minimal excess of 0.07". That's what you see in the photos below.

Moral: Run your numbers for your bike's chainstay length. Find the gear combo that results in a theoretical chain length as close to a whole number as possible, without going over (i.e. 49.8", but not 50.1").

*Problem #2 - * This one I anticipated. I'm running a really wide 57mm chainline on this bike. You can see the chainline adjustment in my first photo. I guessed that this chainline might present a problem, and asked Renny at YESS about it. He threw an extra long "chainline adjusting pin" (the axle the tensioner wheel spins on) into the box with my order.

*Problem #3 - * Because of my wide chainline, my crank arm hit the threaded end of the _chainline adjusting pin_ every crank revolution. Again, this was not necessarily the fault of the ETR-B. I Dremeled off the end of the pin, shown in photo #1.

*Potential Problem - *The tire in the photo is a Mutano 2.24 I've barely got enough clearance to stick my pinkie finger between the tensioner and the tread block. Just a word of caution.










*Problem #4 - *Despite the wide chainline (118mm spindle length), the surfaces on my crank where the granny ring would mount were making contact with the silver bit just above the YESS logo (photo #2). This silver thing is the end of a bolt sticking out, maybe a millimeter or two.

Again, Dremel to the rescue. This time I shaved down the crank, giving me ample clearance.










That's it for the problems. Now that I've got it running, it's great. It's a little loud in the workstand, like any other tensioner. But nothing that bothers us out on the trail.

On the two rides we've had it on, there's been no sign of chain slap. We haven't dropped the chain or accidentally kicked the tensioner. I'm pleased with the visual effect of the chain running up, nearly parallel with the chainstay.

A conventional tensioner would be easier to install, but I'd happily recommend the ETR-B. As long as you're aware of these potential pitfalls and are willing & equipped to deal with them, it seems to be a well-working alternative tensioner.


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## Patriot222 (Dec 16, 2007)

Great review monogod and thanks for the additional info Speedub. I've always scoffed at chain tensioners but this one seems to be a much better design than the hanger mounted options.

Thanks for the great write up and excellent pictures. :thumbsup:


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## Patriot222 (Dec 16, 2007)

Are any good dealers carrying this or is it best to get it straight from the manufacturer?


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## Cycledelic (Oct 13, 2004)

Based on the excellent writeups from monogod and speeddub.nate I decided to purchase the etr-b myself for conversion of my softtail bike. The setup was very easy, even for someone like me without much mechanical aptitude. I am still in the process of getting everything just exactly perfect, particularly tweaking the position of the jockey relative to the chainstay, but on a quick test ride last night everything seemed OK. I will attempt to post some photographs soon.

One thing I notice so far is that the chain makes an awful lot of chattering noise over the jockey. I'm pretty confident that the alignment is true, and I'm wondering whether anyone else has had this same experience. I am using an 8-speed SRAM chain, Rennen 32t chainring and Surly 17t cog. If it continues, I am considering replacing the jockey wheel with a chain guide wheel instead.


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## TheDude (Feb 18, 2004)

No annoying sounds from mine. I am running a BMX chain FWIW. 

Best damn tensioner I have ever used, and I have used most....

:thumbsup:


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Mine definitely is noisier than before I installed it, but it's really only noticable in the workstand. On the trail, it doesn't stand out.


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## Cycledelic (Oct 13, 2004)

Thank you for the feedback, and a follow-up:

Last night I tried changing the jockey out for one on an old 9-speed derailleur. While it still makes a little noise, the ratcheting sound got noticeably quieter. Perhaps the one included with the tensioner is intended for 1-speed chains? The replacement jockey is noticeably larger than the one included with the ETR-B.

I'll return with more observations after I get a few rides in.


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## skunkwerkscycles (Nov 15, 2008)

*Any updates?*

Hi guys --

Any more long-term testing notes you can provide? This along with the new forward components eccentric BB are the options I'm tossing around for my SS build.


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## grtndasaddle (Jul 17, 2006)

Cycledelic,

I have the same issue with the chain noise over the upper guide. Another friend of mine has the same issue. The material used is hard plastic and I cannot get rid of the noise. I have attempted to replace it with a sealed bearing pulley, hoever this put both pulleys to close together and causes the chain to bind. I next attempted to use an MRP DH pulley but this was to large and two wide and hit the spokes. I guess this is what I get for attempting a Full Suspension SS.


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## Cycledelic (Oct 13, 2004)

thanks for sharing your experience swapping out the pulley. That idea crossed my mind, but it sounds like it doesn't offer any significant benefit over the system as is.

one thing I'm noting as I increase the miles is that the chain occasionally gets thrown off the jockey wheel. This may be a factor of chain stretch or loosening springs in the pulley mechanism.

one thing I did try was to swap the jockey for a worn-in one off an old derailleur. I thought that perhaps the included wheel was intended for ss-specific chains. this seemed to make a slight difference in noise, but might also be contributing to the chain-throw issue.

now that i have a contusion on my rib i'll have plenty of time to wrench around and see whether i can get any improvement.

in the meantime, here's a little video of the system in motion. pay no mind to the lil' grom in the corner.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RGyACwTh9qR5wL0KD-gojw?feat=directlink


```
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RGyACwTh9qR5wL0KD-gojw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.ggpht.com/_uLJJak3KBnE/SUC6aC0NV2I/AAAAAAAABj8/w63VqE26WQs/s400/MVI_0787.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/Gnatek/Casstellano?feat=embedwebsite">casstellano</a></td></tr></table>
```


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

3 things

1) not been on mtbr in ages and why the hell can't I reply using firefox lol

2) does this tensioner have "spring"? ie will it adjust for chain growth?

3) Anyone know why the Yess store goes to a domain default page?


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Yes, there is a spring, but it has limited range (i.e. probably wouldn't reliably tension most full suspension applications).

I wouldn't be surprised if Yess is out of business -- or if they forgot to renew their domain. No matter, I'd still recommend the tensioner.


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## sunset1123 (Apr 28, 2009)

Speedub.Nate said:


> Yes, there is a spring, but it has limited range (i.e. probably wouldn't reliably tension most full suspension applications).


So, not having much experience with FS single speeds, how much range in terms of teeth? Could it be used for say, a 16/18 dingle setup (on a rigid)?


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## westofsouth (Oct 24, 2009)

New to cycling so feel free to comment if the following makes no sense.
After reading this thread I decided to fit the ETR-B to my Rohloff equipped hybrid. There were no setup instructions included so I decided to follow the excellent photos shown here. My first impression was that the tensioner did its job, but also produced a racheting noise - amplified and broadcast by the large diameter aluminium downtube. After a bit of head scratching and some basic geometry it seems that, with a 10 tooth jockey wheel, the chain needs to change direction by at least 36 degrees as it passes over the jwheel to stand any chance of being quiet. Otherwise the chain and jw will tend to impact each other rather than rolling smoothly. A larger jw would help (12 teeth = 30 deg).
Apologies in advance if this is already established wisdom .........now where can I get a 15 tooth jockey wheel?


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

11T are pretty common, but I don't see anything in the 12T range popping up in a quick Google search.


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## dblspeed (Jan 31, 2006)

westofsouth said:


> .........now where can I get a 15 tooth jockey wheel?


I hear old Alivio or Altus rear derailers used a 13t and 15t JW.

On a side note, found this ETR-B user review on CRC:

"...it will not yield a standard SS chainline (50-54 mm). It can only be used for the middle position"

is this true?

I want to use this tensioner with an external position chainring (shimano saint single ring).


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## r1Gel (Jan 14, 2004)

dblspeed said:


> On a side note, found this ETR-B user review on CRC:
> 
> "...it will not yield a standard SS chainline (50-54 mm). It can only be used for the middle position"
> 
> ...


I found that review as well and it got me a bit concerned, as mail ordering something from over the pond can be quite frustrating if I found out I spent for something that wouldn't work on my setup. So I e-mailed Renny at Yess, and here's what he said:

"Our tensioner (with the included shorter pin) is able to adapt from 12mm-18mm. and this is on a 68mm Shell"

He said to measure the chainline from the BB face. I haven't done it yet, so I don't know how it will go. FWIW, I have a Deore M532 crankset, with a 34t Blackspire Mono Veloce placed in the middle ring position, yielding a 50mm chainline.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

dblspeed said:


> "...it will not yield a standard SS chainline (50-54 mm). It can only be used for the middle position"
> 
> is this true?


It's been a while, so I just looked back through my email conversations with Renny from YESS to verify -- I expressed some concern with the chainline, since my Speedhub setup requires 54mm. He sent my ETR-B with a longer pin, and it didn't present any problems adjusting to the required chainline with the 68mm shells on Cannondale.

If the bike uses a 73mm shell, then 73 halved is 37mm, plus the 18mm max adjustment range Renny mentioned in the email to r1Gel, and you've out to 55mm -- right on the edge of what you're looking for.


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## dblspeed (Jan 31, 2006)

thanks. I have a 68mm shell, so 34+18=52, guess I'm out of luck with this particular frame/crakset combo.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

dblspeed said:


> thanks. I have a 68mm shell, so 34+18=52, guess I'm out of luck with this particular frame/crakset combo.


Just ask Renny to include the longer pin. That will give you more than enough adjustment room.


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## Loggahead (Jul 16, 2009)

I have been using my ETR-B for 5-6 months now on my 08 Cobia and notice the same "growl"... You get used to it, but it is quite noticeable. The only other tensioner I ever used was a Surly Singleator. I never noticed any added noise with it however. Any success yet from anyone to make this thing quieter?

Overall, I really like the ETR-B. My only complaint is its growl. It has always worked flawlessy and my chain has never skipped or fallen off...


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## 02Bullit (Jul 17, 2008)

Anyone use the Blackspire Stinger? It looks similar to the ETR-B. I know it's not really designed for SS use, but can be had for relatively cheap ~$25. Wondering if it would be a viable option, and they are pretty cool looking! :thumbsup: 

I'm using a Soulcraft Convert currently. It has some play when locked in place and after hammering it slides down just enough to allow the chain to pop off when it gets rough. Happened a couple times now. Maybe just go back to the Surly for now.


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## westofsouth (Oct 24, 2009)

In response to Loggahead:
As per my earlier post, I have reduced noise by about half........
Fitted a 13T jockey wheel and made sure the chain turned by about 30deg (~360/13) over it. 
IMHO, because it is clamped to the bottom bracket- at the junction of 5 hollow tubes, it is never going to be as quiet as a dropout mounted tensioner.

Unfortunately, because neither Yess or the local supplier seem to be able to supply a pin suitable for the 54mm Rohloff chainline, I will have to return to the Singleator.
[the workaround I have been using will not last much longer]


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

westofsouth said:


> Unfortunately, because neither Yess or the local supplier seem to be able to supply a pin suitable for the 54mm Rohloff chainline, I will have to return to the Singleator.
> [the workaround I have been using will not last much longer]


I don't understand -- are they no longer making the longer pin? The one I got from them is fine.


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## hopper25 (Aug 23, 2007)

02Bullit said:


> Anyone use the Blackspire Stinger?


I've bought one, and it's on the way. Will report back once i tried it. I've seen one example where it was used on a singlespeed and think it worked well. But need to try it myself.


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## 02Bullit (Jul 17, 2008)

hopper25 said:


> I've bought one, and it's on the way. Will report back once i tried it. I've seen one example where it was used on a singlespeed and think it worked well. But need to try it myself.


That would be cool. I'm gonna throw the Surly on for now. Look forward to hearing how it goes.


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## crank1979 (Feb 3, 2006)

I've just fitted a Yess ETR-D model tensioner to my Giant Anthem SSer. Fitting as easy. I could choose from a few different settings to sort out the tension i wanted. The lower jockey wheel slides into the position i need and then gets tightened up. I was a little concerned about the lack of a top jockey wheel, with the plastic bush used instead. It's nowhere near as noisy as i expected ith the chain running around it. I can't hear any noise from the tensioner yet, but i've only taken it for a spin around the backyard. So far though, it's an excellent product.:thumbsup:


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> I've just fitted a Yess ETR-D model tensioner to my Giant Anthem SSer...


I'm interested in hearing how well this works.

The Anthem is about the only FS bike that appeals to me and I've often been tempted to try a SS conversion on one. I have been told there is not much chain length variation when the suspension moves.


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## bycyclist (Oct 13, 2008)

*Just installed on my Vassago...*

Thanks to the great information on this thread.

Only hiccup I had was the noticeable noise after install, a ratchetty or scratchy noise.

After I looked about a bit, realized it was from the chain rubbing on the pivot bolt that extruded from the body, just barely.

I simply replaced the stock washer with a thicker washer to pull the bolt further back into the tenshioner body and viola! Nice, quiet and smooth. Going for a test ride tomorrow.


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## crank1979 (Feb 3, 2006)

Velobike said:


> I'm interested in hearing how well this works.
> 
> The Anthem is about the only FS bike that appeals to me and I've often been tempted to try a SS conversion on one. I have been told there is not much chain length variation when the suspension moves.


It's working really well. The chain hasn't dropped yet so i've been pretty happy. It's not super quiet, but it's not an unpleasant sound when i'm cruising along a firetrail section. I'm thinking about modding it to run another jockey wheel instead of the plastic guide.


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## Dscarbs (Feb 1, 2004)

anyone still running this? looks pretty sweet.


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## Loggahead (Jul 16, 2009)

Dscarbs, I am no longer running the ETR-B because my Fisher frame cracked and they ended up replacing it with a Rig once I told them I preferred SS. 


I have still have my ETR-B that I'd be willing to sell for $30 if you are interested.


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## Dscarbs (Feb 1, 2004)

ok, I will PM you... Glad you got a rig!


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## skierpunk (Oct 5, 2011)

Is it possible to change the gearing with this setup regularly? Or would you have to adjust the chain every time? 
I would like to run this on my cross bike for races and will need to change the rear cog frequently for different gearing.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

It depends on the gearing combos you're planning to use, but based on my experience, I'd think not, since its chain wrap capacity isn't that great -- maybe a link or two.


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

skierpunk said:


> Is it possible to change the gearing with this setup regularly? Or would you have to adjust the chain every time?
> I would like to run this on my cross bike for races and will need to change the rear cog frequently for different gearing.


no. what you can do is make a chain for each ratio though. i use sram 8 speed chains and the missing link makes chain swaps a breeze.


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## fellsbiker (Jun 17, 2006)

So I'm thinking about getting one of these for my Maverick, reversing the spring, and using it as a push-down tensioner. My bike has an internal hub, so it's a single speed on the outside. And Maverick derailer hangers are very very soft and fragile. So having a BB tensioner would be ideal. I've been looking and looking, and between the bash guard and the rear tire itself, it looks like this setup wouldn't effect clearance very much. And it's spring loaded, so the occasional hit would just push up on the spring and momentarily slacken the chain. But if I can finally get a tight chain line on this bike, I'll take it.


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## UBUgoat (Sep 12, 2009)

glad this thread was bumped!

would like to hear more from those who've used this on FS rigs...i have an 'old' Giant Yukon FX...figured i might as well make it a fun back up bike with the equivalence of a 32x20 or higher gearing.


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

fellsbiker, is it possible to get a custom, stronger derailer hanger made for your frame?


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## fellsbiker (Jun 17, 2006)

If it is possible, I'm sure it will cost more than the $60 yess. And no matter how strong it is, it's still going to break eventually. And based on how strong it is, it might just take the rear triangle with it. It makes so much more sense to have a BB tensioner. The wheel and bash guard should completely protect the tensioner. And the BB mount should make it rock solid. I will be thrilled to have a completely bare rear axle area.


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## Mr Crudley (Jan 27, 2006)

*ETR-B on a ye olde GT Timberline*

Hi all,

I've recently fitted an ETR-B to a cheapish unloved GT Timberline that was converted to SS.

It reminded me a lot of my first MTB where suspension meant how much air you have in your tyres and 46/36/26 cranksets ruled supreme. 
Maybe I wanted to go back in time for a while and go fully rigid with plain gauge tubing :skep:

The newly converted 34/17T drivetrain would skip at high torque moments - like at the crest of a hill or some other critical time where you risked clomping your nads on the stem or tempting trail side dental work from a potentially ugly OTB.

Finding the problem was a headache since it didn't happen all of the time. Chain alignment all looked ok, this frame just doesn't flex so couldn't blame that, the drivetrain was new, a shorter BB was swapped over and used with the same slippage :madman:

The chain 1/8" couldn't be shortened further without being too tight. The lack of chainwrap from the DMR chainguide plus chain length seemed like possible culprits. In fix it mode, I went out a purchased some bigger rings, an ETR-B plus a half link (which I wasn't keen on using because of the horror stories).

BEFORE:


I got in touch with Yess and Renny shipped out the ETR-B. It is great tensioner, very rigid and I only have good things to say about it so far. I've bumped up the gearing to 35/18 and 
the chain is still a little bit longer than I'd like. A larger diameter jockey wheel like off a SRAM X.9 might do the trick to soak up a bit more chain if I 'really' need to. I didn't end up using the 1/2 link by choice, only as a last option.

The stock 'chain line adjusting pin' was bit short, so I've had the longer pin shipped out. This made a difference for me to cope with the more outboard chainline.

So far, no slips when climbing out of the saddle. The ETR-B tucks away nicely. It is a little but noisy but nothing a squirt of silicon spray couldn't fix.

Kudos To Renny for his help and quick service.

IMHO, the ETR-B is the cleanest and best solution for a vertical dropout HT that provides loads of chainwrap and gives that derailleur-less look that suits an SS really well.

AFTER:


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Off of the top of my head I can't name a lot of things that are better than a chromoly rigid singlespeed off road :thumbsup: but that's me, I choose going for a ride over having sex 9 times out of 10


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## TomBK (Jan 26, 2015)

I really wanted this chain tensioner - even contacted YessPro in Canada but they never came back. Found it on Rohloff's homepage being distributed from Dresan Bikes.

How ever, enough of the advertising...

@monogod - with chain slack that little as shown here:

https://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/monogod/etr-b/ebayfixies102.jpg

how do you assemble/dissemble the chain? Not even a half link would let you get those ends meet up - so not really any need for a tensioner if those images are right...

I would like to be able to assemble/dissemble my chain while everything's still on the bike, but as anyone having tried mount this tensioner knows - this isn't possible...

- or am I just plain stupid?

My set up is 16/40, chainstays 42,5 cm.

Regards Tom


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

I can't see the details of chain and master link on that photo, but there are chains that use "side loading" master link, maybe that's one of these, and not all of them are 1/8".

What I mean are this type and this one (KMC CL373).


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

TomBK said:


> @monogod - with chain slack that little as shown here:
> 
> https://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/monogod/etr-b/ebayfixies102.jpg
> 
> ...


the image is correct. tensioner was needed. without it the chain was too loose. you want to get the chain as short as possible using the largest cog you'll be running.

i was using a sram quick link. you can see it right under the red dial on the rear brake.

it was easy to disconnect the quick link while everything was on the bike by simply moving the tensioner arm down by hand and opening the quick link with the fancy park specialty tool.


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## TomBK (Jan 26, 2015)

Thanks a bunch for both your answers...

Yes, I probably do need the fancy chain tool thingie. It will still be a problem for me to get the correct chain length, though but I will have a closer look and see if the pliers help loosing that last link. I'm using a scram 9 speed chain with quick link too. Right now my set up looks more like Mr Crudley's and that won't be any good cause we have some pretty decent single track at my place so the riding is ok fast and bumpy.
I'll let you know how I get along.
Cheers Tom


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

chain length is easy. just get it as short as you can wrapped around the chainring and cog and let the tensioner do the rest. :thumbsup:


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## TomBK (Jan 26, 2015)

@monogod - the difference between having the chain assembled and dissembled is pretty big. The upper image is without the quick link and the lower is with the chain assembled. I would need a half link to get this to work but I don't know of such one that'll fit an ordinary chain. Is there one?
As mentioned before I'm running 16 cogs rear and 40 in front and I really couldn't be bothered to shift that to something different. I have been running 15 rear but some chains unfortunately grinds the shell of the Rohloff due to their height, so 16 cogs rear is what I'm running. That would mean going to maybe 42 front and that's not in my scope either...
The idea of this tensioner is very appealing but with my setup it just doesn't seem possible. I think I'll just continue using the standard Rohloff tensioner for now and save the Yess for later, thanks for the cheering up...

Tom


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

TomBK,

yes, there are 3/32" half-links in existence, though I am not aware of other models besides the KMC Z51-OL. I used to run these with KMC-Z610HX chains but I run chains without lubrication and my experience with these half-links was unsatisfactory, they tended to get jammed which lead to accelerated chainring wear. I moved to cheapest SRAM and KMC 8-speed chains without half-link and have no idea whether the 3/32" half-link works with these but in a pinch I'd give it a try on a singlespeed drivetrain with a nice straight chainline.

As for the Rohloff cogs, as last resort you could try the 13T cog which runs at 58mm chainline, it could give you the magic gear maybe. You'd likely have to run a 32T or 33T chainring on the big ring position, or use an ISIS or square taper crankset/BB with a longer spindle.


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## WillTheGreat (Aug 26, 2010)

TomBK, I have had great luck so far with the Gussett 3/32" Half link. It comes pre-assembled which I expect makes it more fool-proof. Make sure that you install the half link with the curved side facing the gear teeth!

The KMC Missing Link I (stamped CL573R) can be used with the Gusset half link. It is made with 7.3mm pins. Note that the Missing Link II (stamped CL5571R) has 7.1mm pins and does not fit (BTDT).

Both of these work really well with KMC X8 chains. I use the X8.93 since it is cheaper than the X8.99. Both of these chains include a Missing Link I.


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Thank you WillTheGreat, I'll try that nickel plated half-link next time I set up a 3/32" drivetrain that needs one. I presume you ran it with KMC X8 chains as well?


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## WillTheGreat (Aug 26, 2010)

Yeah I use the X8 chain since is recommended for use with the Missing Link I. I bought the X8.93 for about $10 on sale. I'm sure there are other chains that would work well also, but I haven't experimented.


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## TomBK (Jan 26, 2015)

Thanks guys...
KMC was new to me - here on the continent sram and Shimano are the most common. If I get a KMC chain comparable with my sram 9 spd, I can get a half link that fits - I will go look for a combo like that.
As a side note I have had very poor experience with the cheaper 8 spd sram chains - they wear out ridiculously fast compared to the 9 spd ones that are just a little bit more expensive.


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