# How to remove overtightened bolts?



## roknroll1982 (Mar 25, 2007)

Ok, just got a bike off ebay, and I'm gonna swap out saddles. It's a thomson elite seatpost, and I can't get the damn bolts to unscrew. I've even stripped them a little in the process. The bastard really tightened these good. I've tried several "techniques" to no avail. And before anyone asks, yes I'm turning the bolts the correct way. I had to remove the other saddle from another thomson elite, just like this one(different size though). 

Is there anything else I can do? I can't exactly saw the hardware off, because that would just be futile(the bolt would still be screwed inside the seatpost). Thank god I've got extra thomson hardware laying around, cause the current hardware is all stripped and mutilated.

I don't have a dremel tool or anything, just basic hand tools. I don't mind demolishing the bolts though, cause I've got spare thomson bolts.


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## xenon (Apr 16, 2007)

For starters, sprinkle some WD-40 onto the bolts and give the stuff 1-2 hrs to work. Put the saddles with seat posts so that the WD-40 penetrate the threads. 
My guess is, you are dealing with 6 mm. Allen bolts. You may use a ring wrench(or some kind of pipe, if you have any that would fit) to lengthen the arm and get more torque. Just put the ring onto the Allen key's long end and press.


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## roknroll1982 (Mar 25, 2007)

thanks I'll give that a shot. I swear to god i'm never buying another complete bike off ebay. too many people just don't put time into building up a bike.


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## Maida7 (Apr 29, 2005)

It's the bolts that clamp the seat to the post? I don't think its a matter of being to tight. It's probably that the bolts are seized. So a lubricant like liquid wrench or WD40 may help loosen them. Heat can help but you need to get it very hot like with a torch. 

Perhaps if you cut the rails of the saddle you bang them out with a punch. With the rails removed from the clamp you may be able to get a better grip on the bolt heads with a pair of vise grips. You would ruin the saddle but maybe save the post. 

This will teach people to grease or antisieze all bolt threads when building up a bike.


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## roknroll1982 (Mar 25, 2007)

Maida7 said:


> It's the bolts that clamp the seat to the post? I don't think its a matter of being to tight. It's probably that the bolts are seized. So a lubricant like liquid wrench or WD40 may help loosen them. Heat can help but you need to get it very hot like with a torch.
> 
> Perhaps if you cut the rails of the saddle you bang them out with a punch. With the rails removed from the clamp you may be able to get a better grip on the bolt heads with a pair of vise grips. You would ruin the saddle but maybe save the post.
> 
> This will teach people to grease or antisieze all bolt threads when building up a bike.


I'm definitely gonna try and free up the threads with some WD-40. There's no way on earth I'm going to ruin this saddle though. It's a fizik Ti rail Aliante Carbon saddle, brand new. Hopefully I can get these bolts off


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## SlimTwisted (Jun 14, 2006)

If all else fails, go to any automotive parts store and pick up a can of PB Nut Buster.

Spray a little of that on and let it set up and those bolts will be a spinning! We swear by it here in Buffalo when taking off automotive nuts and bolts that have seen a few of our salty winters.


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## roknroll1982 (Mar 25, 2007)

SlimTwisted said:


> If all else fails, go to any automotive parts store and pick up a can of PB Nut Buster.
> 
> Spray a little of that on and let it set up and those bolts will be a spinning! We swear by it here in Buffalo when taking off automotive nuts and bolts that have seen a few of our salty winters.


That's a possibility. My problem is, the bolt is so freaking stripped, I can't even get a good turn on it. I'm also thinking the guy that put the bolts on over torqued it. I don't see any signs of rust. I may take a punch and a hammer to the rounded out nut. I'm running out of options here. Last resort it an easy out with a drill press.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

If you can get a tiny pair of channellock pliers of the sort that come with a set of 'ignition wrenches', those things are amazing at gripping the head of a stripped bolt (much better than any visegrips I've used). I would use the penetrating oil first and let it soak in for quite a while, overnight if necessary.

If that doesn't work, those are likely some very hard bolts, so drilling them probably won't be a walk in the park. I would probably grind them down with a file if necessary to remove the head and get the assembly apart. A quality file will file down a bearing race, so if you can access the bolt head, it should be able to handle even a grade 8 bolt head. 

If you're not able to file the head completely down, then if the threads are exposed, I'd hacksaw them. Use a small file to get started if necessary and then gently, but firmly work the saw blade. 

You would then be able to get at the stub with those tiny channellocks pliers after some more penetrating oil and the tension would be relieved from removing the top of the bolt.

I would avoid heat if possible. That may do more damage than good.

Never say die....


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## roknroll1982 (Mar 25, 2007)

Thanks to all who replied. 

I finally got the bastards unstuck 

TONS of WD-40 and a vicegrip later I got them off.

phew


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## Ricko (Jan 14, 2004)

roknroll1982 said:


> Thanks to all who replied.
> 
> I finally got the bastards unstuck
> 
> ...


Glad you got it!

For next time though, order some penetrating lube from these guys... http://www.kanolabs.com/ ...it's absolutely the BEST penetrating lube there is, it puts liquid wench, wd40...anything this side of dynamite to shame, seriously:thumbsup: .


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## 3034 (Apr 12, 2006)

Ditto on using KROIL it works where the others wont



Ricko said:


> Glad you got it!
> 
> For next time though, order some penetrating lube from these guys... http://www.kanolabs.com/ ...it's absolutely the BEST penetrating lube there is, it puts liquid wench, wd40...anything this side of dynamite to shame, seriously:thumbsup: .


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