# New bike here



## goofyarcher (Jul 12, 2020)

New bike here, First time back on a full squish ,, Im "Shocked" at how well it climbs,, The only issue i have is my hands seem to get kind of numb. The grips feel good but after a couple hours, i can tell.. the Front shock and rear feel really good, Not sure whats up with that? Only have about 100 miles in so far on this bike in 2 weeks


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## sgltrak (Feb 19, 2005)

Try different grips with different shapes, diameters, densities, and materials.
Also, increase your core strength so your hands are not supporting the entire weight of your upper body.


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## TNC (Jan 21, 2004)

So from your post I'm assuming you were already mountain biking and had a mountain bike. If you still have that bike, and the bike didn't cause hand numbness, I'd go measure all the cockpit and ergo numbers and try to set up the new bike in similar fashion as a starting point. 

I'd also ask if you've been off the bike for a lengthy period, as that may contribute a little to hand numbness when you start back up. Grips and such can make a big difference, but since you have a new bike and now have hand numbness not experienced before, I'd look at the cockpit ergos being off for your riding and hand position. It doesn't take much difference to cause an issue like this as we get older...and even for younger riders.

Another issue that could seem odd at first might be that you are riding harder in more rough and technical terrain than you did on a hardtail. Even with a full suspension bike, this could still cause new physical issues just because you're hanging it out more and having to hold on to the bike more aggressively. That sounds counterintuitive to what a full suspension bike might bring to the table, but it can happen...but that's usually a good thing...LOL!

And finally, if you're new to full suspension you may not have a good balance and setup in your fork and shock. Sometimes there is a learning curve to setup coming from a hardtail. You didn't mention it...what kind of bike did you have before this?


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## 411898 (Nov 5, 2008)

Nice bike!

Try minor adjustments on the handlebar angle. If the outer palms are hurting, move the bars inward a tich. Move them outward a tich if the inner palms are hurting. Tiny adjustments can make a big difference.


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## DoctorJD (Jan 15, 2004)

sgltrak said:


> Also, increase your core strength so your hands are not supporting the entire weight of your upper body.


This. 
As long as the bike fit is good, I doubt it's a setup issue.


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## TNC (Jan 21, 2004)

DoctorJD said:


> This.
> As long as the bike fit is good, I doubt it's a setup issue.


I guess "fit" and "setup" can mean two different things but even then they overlap a bit. It's a new bike and full suspension on top of that which is new to him. I'm guessing when you say "setup" you're referring to the suspension setup whereas "fit" is the ergo deal I was mentioning. Sure, I agree body strength, conditioning, etc. helps, but in a forum where we're talking about older riders, some of these issues won't be overcome with just that. Wear and tear has its limits where even fitness and surgery won't rectify the march of time. I'm not really arguing with you as much as suggesting solutions that will support/aid our aging limbs and core.

And there's this...let's be honest...a lot of us are no longer going to go to the gym, dedicating ourselves to an effective regimen of fitness efforts, and increase those physiological issues we have. A lot of folks just want to ride or pursue the other physical activities they like without going full world cup preparedness...but a lot do and that's admirable and effective. Don't take my statement there as some kind of defeatist surrender to fat city in the recliner watching Oprah...LOL! However, many older riders want to continue to enjoy mountain biking at a decent level of performance without the death march approach. While there is no free lunch, it doesn't have to be all spinach and kale smoothies.

I think equipment selection, fit, and setup will go a long way to address the ills we encounter as older riders...even we lazy slackers who just want to have fun. ?


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## goofyarcher (Jul 12, 2020)

TNC said:


> So from your post I'm assuming you were already mountain biking and had a mountain bike. If you still have that bike, and the bike didn't cause hand numbness, I'd go measure all the cockpit and ergo numbers and try to set up the new bike in similar fashion as a starting point.
> 
> I'd also ask if you've been off the bike for a lengthy period, as that may contribute a little to hand numbness when you start back up. Grips and such can make a big difference, but since you have a new bike and now have hand numbness not experienced before, I'd look at the cockpit ergos being off for your riding and hand position. It doesn't take much difference to cause an issue like this as we get older...and even for younger riders.
> 
> ...


I will be 60 in a couple weeks and yes , things change as we age!!!!
I did about 1600 miles last year on the trails, I don't do rode miles at all
I ride 2-3 times a week, whatever work allows , average about 16 - 25 miles rides (all trail/mtn ( most blue/green)) I do ride black if the mood hits me but most of my miles are on milder rides

Bike feels really good, I can climb stuff on it, I never dreamed.

*I think you have some great points in your post,*

The geo seems to be pretty good over all. 
I have been working on tire psi and shock psi front and rear shocks, Tires are 2.60 rekons, I started with Tires at 34 and they are now in the mid 20's and feel soild.

The front shock seem a little harsh, It might need to drop it a few psi, ( possiblly lower it several psi and and some tokens ) I'm 215 lbs 6 foot. tokens could not hurt. )
T
uning may just take sometime and playing with .

I can tell the bars are a touch lower maybe 10-15mm, but i like the over all feel, I was considering get some new ones with a little rise and new grips. I always like ergons which I have not put on it yet.. *I do feel a touch more weight on my palms.* It might be the grips or might be bar height, it is really hard to compare the full squish to my hardtail.

as far as what I ride, the hardtail did not stop me from riding anything, I riding easyer stuff at moment, on easy blacks and hard tech stuff, my hands do fine, it is the long xc grinds is where i find issues. I'm gradually working my way up to harder blacks,* me and the bike need to get to know each other* more before I sent it into hard blacks.


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## goofyarcher (Jul 12, 2020)

sgltrak said:


> Try different grips with different shapes, diameters, densities, and materials.
> Also, increase your core strength so your hands are not supporting the entire weight of your upper body.


I have not put ergons on yet, the ones on the bike felt good , but feeling good to grab setting still, is not the same as feeling good to ride.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

Hand and wrist pain, showing up on a new bike are almost 100% fitment/setup. Commonly steep seat angle pushing your body weight forward. Or stack that’s too low.

I would generally start with incrementally raising the bars 5mm at at time if your fork steerer allows.


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## goofyarcher (Jul 12, 2020)

Blatant said:


> Hand and wrist pain, showing up on a new bike are almost 100% fitment/setup. Commonly steep seat angle pushing your body weight forward. Or stack that's too low.
> 
> I would generally start with incrementally raising the bars 5mm at at time if your fork steerer allows.


Stem is at the top,, I will need to change the bars


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## sgltrak (Feb 19, 2005)

goofyarcher said:


> I have not put ergons on yet, the ones on the bike felt good , but feeling good to grab setting still, is not the same as feeling good to ride.


I too have felt many grips that were comfortable to grab while the bike was still, but not after a bit of time riding. I do know that Ergon works for me, so I've been riding the same model Ergons on all of my bikes for many years.


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## toyotatacomaTRD (Apr 4, 2012)

My money's on the 35mm bars being too harsh for your liking. I was exactly the same. Tossed a 31.8 stem and some renthal bars with a little flex and completely fixed my issue.

New bikes now are also coming with shorter cranks, this brings weight up higher, which in turn will put more strain on your hands. Bringing the bars up a tad with either a small rise stem or slightly more rise in the bars will most likely do the trick. This is also your opportunity to dial in the reach exactly where you're used to it. It won't take too much.


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## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

toyotatacomaTRD said:


> My money's on the 35mm bars being too harsh for your liking. I was exactly the same. Tossed a 31.8 stem and some renthal bars with a little flex and completely fixed my issue.
> 
> New bikes now are also coming with shorter cranks, this brings weight up higher, which in turn will put more strain on your hands. Bringing the bars up a tad with either a small rise stem or slightly more rise in the bars will most likely do the trick. This is also your opportunity to dial in the reach exactly where you're used to it. It won't take too much.


So much this.

35mm are really harsh, and I've gone to 31.8 bars-specifically Spank Vibracore and it made a huge difference. The nice thing is the 31.8mm ones come in 15, 30, and 50mm rise.


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## 411898 (Nov 5, 2008)

I think an important upgrade, if handlebar repositioning does not help, is to move up to carbon fiber bars. They have more give where it's needed, they are lighter in weight, and the material tends to help numb out the vibrations transferred from the terrain. 

I suggest the Raceface Next carbon fiber series.


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## goofyarcher (Jul 12, 2020)

Hawgzilla said:


> I think an important upgrade, if handlebar repositioning does not help, is to move up to carbon fiber bars. They have more give where it's needed, they are lighter in weight, and the material tends to help numb out the vibrations transferred from the terrain.
> 
> I suggest the Raceface Next carbon fiber series.


Ok , i will try that next ,, going to move the current bars abit and install a set of 
*Ergon GA3 All-Mountain Grip with MiniWing Size Large,* I have big hands wear a size 14 ring


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

All interesting advice. Personally, while I have experienced hand and wrist pain, it’s always been related to modern geo and getting fitment dialed.

I run 31.8 bars on one bike and 35 on the other. No difference for me. Same with carbon vs aluminum. Just my experience.


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## PTCbiker (Sep 15, 2020)

Hawgzilla said:


> Nice bike!
> 
> Try minor adjustments on the handlebar angle. If the outer palms are hurting, move the bars inward a tich. Move them outward a tich if the inner palms are hurting. Tiny adjustments can make a big difference.


I was going to suggest the same thing.

I was between sizes for me, I bought a used Large when I probably should've gotten a medium. I had some lower back and wrist pain, like maybe I was stretching too much when riding. So I went from a 50mm stem to a 35mm that also has a 5mm rise and all my problems went away.


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## Ilovedoods (Jun 22, 2020)

Set your suspension sag 30%, open the compression on fork, speed up the rebound, roll your bars back a bit, raise your levers to just below horizontal and install some ESI grips. This should get you started. Ride a bunch and don’t overthink it. Adjust to taste as you get more familiar with your new bike.


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## goofyarcher (Jul 12, 2020)

Ilovedoods said:


> Set your suspension sag 30%, open the compression on fork, speed up the rebound, roll your bars back a bit, raise your levers to just below horizontal and install some ESI grips. This should get you started. Ride a bunch and don't overthink it. Adjust to taste as you get more familiar with your new bike.


thank u,, i did most of those the first day,, but levers are still down, i can try raising them a touch,, Grips on order,, I will add sag im closer to 20%


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## paramount3 (Jul 13, 2014)

The bars on the new bike are probably wider than on the old bike. That alone could change weight distribution.


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## Champion_Monster (Nov 30, 2014)

That looks like a Fuel EX7, so the Mino link should be set from the factory position in the Low setting (Decreased reach, slacker head and seat angles) but you might want to check to make sure. If it is in the High setting, just flipping it will shorten your reach enough to notice.


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## old_er (Dec 27, 2020)

goofyarcher said:


> Ok , i will try that next ,, going to move the current bars abit and install a set of
> *Ergon GA3 All-Mountain Grip with MiniWing Size Large,* I have big hands wear a size 14 ring


I am using the GA-3's and also the GA-2 Fat's. I have large hands too and some basal thumb arthritis in both hands. The GA-3 Fat gives a nice diameter to grip on and be able to readjust your grip. The are tapered so they allow the thumb to move for shifting without much restriction.

The GA-3 wings keeps your hands a bit more stationary but help keep the wrist from getting in a bad angle. You will have to play with the rotation on them to get the sweet spot but they really help with hand pressure.


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## bitflogger (Jan 12, 2004)

Check sag. Make sure your fork is sufficiently plush. After a rebuild and temperature changes, I just caught what might be same or similar fork needing adjustment.

I don't know your fork model but I have a similar bike made from the ala carte same as 9.9 frame and a RockShox Pike. If that's a Pike know it can take a LOT. 25% or more sag keeps my hand from getting numb and the bike still handles low level flight and big hits.

The Bontrager 750 mm bars that bike probably has are a nice bend but I know some people still make tilt and stem adjustments. I don't buy that the material gets you much. We have same Trek frames and bars made from recycled beer cans or plastic. The bike engine gets your far more than the fancy materials that are diminishing returns as you spend.


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## goofyarcher (Jul 12, 2020)

bitflogger said:


> Check sag. Make sure your fork is sufficiently plush. After a rebuild and temperature changes, I just caught what might be same or similar fork needing adjustment.
> 
> I don't know your fork model but I have a similar bike made from the ala carte same as 9.9 frame and a RockShox Pike. If that's a Pike know it can take a LOT. 25% or more sag keeps my hand from getting numb and the bike still handles low level flight and big hits.
> 
> The Bontrager 750 mm bars that bike probably has are a nice bend but I know some people still make tilt and stem adjustments. I don't buy that the material gets you much. We have same Trek frames and bars made from recycled beer cans or plastic. The bike engine gets your far more than the fancy materials that are diminishing returns as you spend.


I dropped the psi in front shock my 4 psi, it really cleaned up the front fork , i still have enough travel so its a good call, I did order me some new bars, with 30 mm rise, 
I think the bars , Grips, and the fine tuning of shock will put me in the grove. New bars are
*SPANK SPIKE 800 VIBROCORE™ BAR,, 800 by 30mm rise 4% rise x 8% sweep*


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