# Let myself get overweight getting back into biking looking at Giant Warp DS2 used..



## backwoodz (Apr 10, 2013)

*After writing these I will say sorry for the very long post lol

Well When I was in my teens (I'm 27 now) I loved Mountain biking I would spend all day out on the trails with my camel bak and just enjoying the outdoors and staying healthy.

When I was young I was really really Overweight and I took up Mountain biking to Loose the weight and get in shape which led into my love for Mountain biking.

Once I got my drivers license and started "Chasing Tail" I kinda stopped biking and eventually sold my bike. Now I didn't have a very good bike but it was Full Suspension and I loved it. Don't laugh ( I was young and didn't have much money) but it was a Pacific brand bike like one that you would buy at a regular store. It was not well built at all so I started upgrading it and tinkering with it I bought a new fork for it and bought a used fox rear shock and it worked for me.

Sooo Years later and I have Gained most of my weight back.. I'm 5'7" 27yrs old and I weigh 208 lbs. For the past 3 years I have been just sitting in my house. The extent of my execise has been walking downstairs to go to the bathroom. I got into a car wreck 3 years ago which I lost my drivers license from which is when I started becoming very Un-active and staying indoors and really depressed.

I have been looking for a way to get back into shape and get my Motivation, Strength and energy back and I really think getting back into Mountain biking is the answer I am looking for. I really miss riding in the trails and enjoying the outdoors and having fun on a bike.

So I'm an looking to buy another bike and get back into things..

*I found a Used but barely ridden Giant Warp GS2 for $300 for sale in my area which I'm going to look at tomarrow* and possibly put some money down on. I don't have much cash since I am not currently working so I can't afford a new bike without having to buy a wal-mart bike which I know I will regret. And I REALLY like Full suspension Bikes. I grew up also Riding Dirtbikes and Atv's SO a Full Suspension bike just "Fits" me better.

*So does anyone own one of these bikes? Or know anything about them?*

As I get myself into better health and back into things I want to make sure the bike is upgradeable and doesn't have any wierd size parts or anything that I will have a hard time upgrading.

Like I most likely will eventually replace "Atleast" the rear shock and probably the front. I'm not sure what kind of hardware is on it as far as derailers and stuff but I imagine I might have to upgrade those down the line aswell if they are really cheap. Also I have not seen the bike in person yet so I don't know if it has disc brakes or not but WHen I was into biking only the very top end bikes had them so I never had the luxury or using them.

Anyways Sorry for my Wall of text here but I am really excited to get back into Mountain biking and finally getting healthy again.

This is the bike I am thinking about getting.










Thanks.


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## backwoodz (Apr 10, 2013)

Wow Just looked through the thread of people that got there bikes for under $400 and I can't believe how nice some of those bikes are that they got for that price.. I'm starting to wonder if this Giant Warp GS2 is worth $300...


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## MrMentallo (Apr 10, 2013)

I'm in the same boat except I'm about 40 and used to ride heavily in my early 20s. I just picked up a 2005 Jamis Exile hardtail that needed a little tlc. Luckily I have a co-worker who moonlights in a bike shop and he has been throwing me extra schwag parts. Customer doesn't like the new tires he bought a week ago? Hey, MrMentallo, I got something for you. Jesus, you are using nuts and bolts for your seat clamp? I got your back. 

I work on my feet and am constantly moving all day long so leg strength isn't an issue, but my cardio is a big one. I weigh about the same as OP. Anyone have any strategies to get my lungs back that aren't "pedal until you are tired and then go some more?" I live in a warm climate so riding 3-4 times a week is feasible.


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## backwoodz (Apr 10, 2013)

Dang I dunno what to do lol I wish some folks would read this thread.. I'v been searching and reading all day trying to figure out if I should buy that bike or if there is something better I can get for that price.. 

Looking around most people say Don't bother buying a full suspension bike for under$400 as there mostly junk but I don't have more money and I really do not like hard tails..

hmm argh.. I'm supposed to look at the bike tomarrow .. well today now since its after 12 and I need to make a decision.


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## GregTR (Mar 28, 2013)

I turned my life around 3+ years ago and lost close to 80 lbs. I hate to tell you but it's not about the bike. It's about the food. Actually it's about calories in vs. calories out. You have to do a ton of biking/exercise to make a dent, you really have to get your diet in check and accelerate/augment the weight loss with exercise.

Best of luck!

FWIW I ran almost 3,600 miles last year and haven't lost a single lbs. This year I rode 1,600+ miles so far and ran close to 400 miles. Again, no change in weight...


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## MrMentallo (Apr 10, 2013)

Google, this site and my bikeshop buddy says that is a good entry level bike. Not too good at anything in particular, but not bad at anything either. The best part is the frame my buddy says. You will break yourself before the frame goes. Components can be upgraded over time he said. The frame is worth putting reasonable amounts of money into especially if you do the wrench work yourself.

That being said, I would ride the thing first. Check the bearings in the headpost and bottom bracket. The suspension shouldn't squeak or make noise much at all. There shouldn't be any lateral movement on the bottom bracket either. All in all, if the bike doesn't feel right, walk away. If it does feel right, keep us updated.


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## MrMentallo (Apr 10, 2013)

GregTR said:


> I turned my life around 3+ years ago and lost close to 80 lbs. I hate to tell you but it's not about the bike. It's about the food. Actually it's about calories in vs. calories out. You have to do a ton of biking/exercise to make a dent, you really have to get your diet in check and accelerate/augment the weight loss with exercise.
> 
> Best of luck!
> 
> FWIW I ran almost 3,600 miles last year and haven't lost a single lbs. This year I rode 1,600+ miles so far and ran close to 400 miles. Again, no change in weight...


The food isn't an issue, I'm a chef who likes to eat reasonably healthy and balanced. My challenge is the lack of activity I have had the last few years due to a kid, crushing hours and depression due to a failing marriage. The kid is now at an age where she doesn't need constant supervision and I now have a job that is much easier on the hours. No more 12-16 hour days, six days a week. Holy crap, I have time and energy to exercise! I was looking more for riding routines that will keep me from over exerting myself while keeping up enough calorie burn to lose weight at a healthy pace. It's not the nutrition, it's the cardio training.


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## GregTR (Mar 28, 2013)

MrMentallo said:


> The food isn't an issue, I'm a chef who likes to eat reasonably healthy and balanced. My challenge is the lack of activity I have had the last few years due to a kid, crushing hours and depression due to a failing marriage. The kid is now at an age where she doesn't need constant supervision and I now have a job that is much easier on the hours. No more 12-16 hour days, six days a week. Holy crap, I have time and energy to exercise! I was looking more for riding routines that will keep me from over exerting myself while keeping up enough calorie burn to lose weight at a healthy pace. It's not the nutrition, it's the cardio training.


Whatever you say. I've heard it all... "Healthy" and "reasonably balanced" doesn't mean jack squat. It probably means you eat your veggies on occasion and your fat/carb/protein is at a decent ratio. So the issue is not with the quality, it's with the quantity.

A mile on a road bike burns about 35-40 calories. On a mountain bike it's about 45-80 calories depending on effort/elevation/terrain. to lose a single pound of fat you have to generate 3,500 calorie deficit. To lose a pound of body fat a week you need to generate a 500 calorie daily deficit. By the time you lose 40 lbs your basal metabolic rate will be 300 calories lower than it is today so when you get closer to your goal you have to eat about 800 calories less or work out 800 calories more *every day* compared to what you do today. That's riding 20+ miles *every day* on a road bike.

So if you want to solve this weight issue by simply exercising you're looking at a 40 week plan of 140 mile weeks. Uhm... Good luck with that straight from the couch! I'll see you on the injured list....


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## backwoodz (Apr 10, 2013)

GregTR said:


> I turned my life around 3+ years ago and lost close to 80 lbs. I hate to tell you but it's not about the bike. It's about the food. Actually it's about calories in vs. calories out. You have to do a ton of biking/exercise to make a dent, you really have to get your diet in check and accelerate/augment the weight loss with exercise.
> 
> Best of luck!
> 
> FWIW I ran almost 3,600 miles last year and haven't lost a single lbs. This year I rode 1,600+ miles so far and ran close to 400 miles. Again, no change in weight...


I have the diet part down I have lost 60lbs in the past I just got lazy and let myself gain it all back again. I've been eating very healthy (for the past week I just started dieting again), No fried foods, No soda, no sugary drinks, No sweets (if I get a sweet tooth I eat some greek yogurt with granola I'm addicted to that stuff) I don't eat frozen foods I try to eat things like brown rice and grilled chicken breast and vegtables. Rite now its a lack of exercise that is keeping me from loosing weight and keeping healthy. I pretty much do nothing but sit in a computer chair all day every day so I don't burn any calories.

And I know its not really about the bike but not only do I want to get back into mountain biking for the benifit of loosing weight but because I used to really enjoy it and I don't want to loose some weight and be like well this bike just is not cutting it for me anymore. I would like to make sure I get a bike that is decent enough to get some use out of



MrMentallo said:


> Google, this site and my bikeshop buddy says that is a good entry level bike. Not too good at anything in particular, but not bad at anything either. The best part is the frame my buddy says. You will break yourself before the frame goes. Components can be upgraded over time he said. The frame is worth putting reasonable amounts of money into especially if you do the wrench work yourself.
> 
> That being said, I would ride the thing first. Check the bearings in the headpost and bottom bracket. The suspension shouldn't squeak or make noise much at all. There shouldn't be any lateral movement on the bottom bracket either. All in all, if the bike doesn't feel right, walk away. If it does feel right, keep us updated.


Well I am supposed to go look at the bike tomarrow so hopefully its in good shape I remember my old bike since it was a cheap bike the bearings in the crank got really bad really fast so I plan on checking all the moving parts for wiggle. I'm guessing I can eventually replace the forks and rear shock and I would love to have disc brakes since I never had them before and it seems like such a common thing on bikes these days I should be able to get some relatively cheap down the road


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## chef7734 (May 4, 2011)

Back on topic for the bike. It is a 2004 Giant DS2. Brand new it was 550.00. 300.00 is overpriced for this bike. To put it in perspective, a 2004 Giant AC 2 brand new was sold new for 2300.00 and now sells for around 500.00. I think if the bike is in great condition it is a 150.00 bike, but that is if everything was serviced correctly and in tune and great shape.

BikePedia - 2004 Giant Warp DS 2 Complete Bicycle


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## backwoodz (Apr 10, 2013)

chef7734 said:


> Back on topic for the bike. It is a 2004 Giant DS2. Brand new it was 550.00. 300.00 is overpriced for this bike. To put it in perspective, a 2004 Giant AC 2 brand new was sold new for 2300.00 and now sells for around 500.00. I think if the bike is in great condition it is a 150.00 bike, but that is if everything was serviced correctly and in tune and great shape.
> 
> BikePedia - 2004 Giant Warp DS 2 Complete Bicycle


Dang i didn't realize it was so old.. 2004.. 9 year old bike.. Is there any chance it could be a newer model? I don't know if they still make them or what..

Maybe If I catch the guy in a lie saying its only a year old or something he will drop the price if I know its really 9 years old. hmm now I'm kinda screwed..

I've been looking through craigslist and everyone in my area wants a fortune for there used bikes. So its either buy this used bike over priced or buy something new for the same price that may not be as good of a bike or buy a newer hardtail. I really really didn't want to buy a hard tail bike i dunno..

There are a few nice looking hardtails on craigslist in my area for about that price but I just am a big fan of full suspension. Some of the bikes that I see for sale that I could afford from craigs list that are hardtails are:

GT Avalanche 2.0 for $400 ( I only wanted to spend $300)
Trek Fuel 90 SLR for $400 ( I only wanted to spend $300) I Just realized This is a FS Bike.. If I could get this for $300 I'm guessing that would be a great deal?
2008 Specialized Rock Hopper $320
Jamis Trail X $285

Are any of those hard tails "really" good deals that would be worth picking up even tho I would much rather have a FS bike? I mean if there damn good deals then the better compenets would make up for not having a rear shock a bit in my mind and would ease the pain lol

Theres also a nice looking Cannondale RZ120 but its $850 and I just can not even come close to affording that.


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## chef7734 (May 4, 2011)

Thing is with giant they only do that color one year. The 2003 was lighter and different graphics. Its not a bad frame and has potential, but it is older. Check it out tomorrow and see what you can do with the price.

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## backwoodz (Apr 10, 2013)

chef7734 said:


> Thing is with giant they only do that color one year. The 2003 was lighter and different graphics. Its not a bad frame and has potential, but it is older. Check it out tomorrow and see what you can do with the price.
> 
> Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2


I was just sifting through craigslist again and found out on of the bigs I had pegged as a hardtail is actually a FS bike. The Trek Fuel 90 SLR for $400 If I can get him to $300 I would take that in an instant over the Giant.. I Know that trek has to be a better bike.


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## chef7734 (May 4, 2011)

Do you have a pic of that one so I can help find the bike info? I think they stopped making the 90 in 2004.


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## backwoodz (Apr 10, 2013)

chef7734 said:


> Do you have a pic of that one so I can help find the bike info?


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## chef7734 (May 4, 2011)

There you have a 2001 Trek Fuel 90 not even the disc model.
BikePedia - 2001 Trek Fuel 90 Complete Bicycle


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## backwoodz (Apr 10, 2013)

chef7734 said:


> There you have a 2001 Trek Fuel 90 not even the disc model.
> BikePedia - 2001 Trek Fuel 90 Complete Bicycle


I'm guessing the trek is a much better bike and a more realistic price used I sent an email I hope the guy still has it and really hope I can get him down to $300 It looks like it has a better rear suspension design then the Giant I was looking at. I think if I can't get the Giant down to under $200 I aint probably shouldnt take it tomarrow if the Trek guy doesn't get back to me before I'm supposed to look at the bike.

Its proving to be really tough finding used bikes in my area (Pittsburgh) I guess there are not many mountain bikers here or some just have messed up expectations on what a used bike is worth.

Thank you for your help Now I can't sleep because I want the guy with the trek to get back to me lol. (its 2am here tho so that aint going to happen tonight)

Seeing the years of these bikes It makes me realize how fast time has went since I had mine..

How much better is the trek then the Giant. I see the trek has Shimano Deore hardware on it and the giant has Shimano Alivio and Shimano ef shifter.


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## chef7734 (May 4, 2011)

The giant has more travel 5.0 rear vs 3.0 and a newer frame. I would take a look at both and see which ever feels better and is in better condition. The warp can always be upgraded if you felt like it or you could ride whichever felt best and saved up for a better bike. I just worry about a 12 year old mountain bike.


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## backwoodz (Apr 10, 2013)

chef7734 said:


> The giant has more travel 5.0 rear vs 3.0 and a newer frame. I would take a look at both and see which ever feels better and is in better condition. The warp can always be upgraded if you felt like it or you could ride whichever felt best and saved up for a better bike. I just worry about a 12 year old mountain bike.


Yah they are pretty dang old.. It makes me feel even older.. But I don't have many options with only $300 other then used as far as I know when it comes to FS bikes.

I didn't realize the trek had such small travel either hmm.. Your rite tho I could always upgrade the Giant and save up for a better bike once I get healthy enough to take advantage of it.

Thank you for all the help hopefully when I go to look at the bike tomarrow it will be in good condition and I can get him to lower the price. I plan on printing out those Bikpedia pages from the 2 bikes to show the guy with the Giant that he needs to lower his price.


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## Gundam168 (Dec 19, 2012)

Because of the negative appeal of URT bikes like the Giant Warp, nobody should be selling them for above $200 dollars. Be that as it may, URT bikes are perfect for those who want to lose weight. You exert more energy per mile than on any other pivot FS or hardtail. More energy exerted = more calories burned.

You can haggle down the price if you used this justification that URT bikes (v brakes) will be a laughing stock on the trails. But if he's an astute seller he might say a URT bike is the perfect bike to lose some pounds.


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## chef7734 (May 4, 2011)

I wouldn't really consider the Warp a URT as the bottom bracket is not on the rear triangle. There is a pivot and link above the BB that the rear triangle attaches to.


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## backwoodz (Apr 10, 2013)

chef7734 said:


> I wouldn't really consider the Warp a URT as the bottom bracket is not on the rear triangle. There is a pivot and link above the BB that the rear triangle attaches to.
> View attachment 789183
> 
> View attachment 789184


I think your right chef I just looked up Urt on wiki ( didn't know what it meant lol) I was actually really worried about this myself after reading his comment because my old bike was a urt and it was hell to get anywhere on everytime I pedaled the bike would bob like crazy.

Urt bikes seem to all have the bottom bracket on the triangle atleast everyone I seen did. So I'm hoping that this won't have a crap ton of bob like my old bike.

Has anyone ever owned one of these? that frame looks really heavy but it also looks like its built strong as hell. Do you have a lot of issues with bobbing?

EDIT: Also I just got an email back the Trek is Sold so looks like I'm buying the Giant for sure as long as its not all busted up.


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## Zuarte (Nov 21, 2010)

First of all, welcome, and good on you for being proactive in getting your life back on track.

I'm going to give some advice that you might not like to hear, but I think will be best for you in the long run. For a budget of $300, take full suspension bikes off your radar. The only FS bikes at that price range are either a) a poor and cheap design to start with, and b) close to 10 years old, or a combination of both. The age aspect is particularly a danger because bearings, bushings, and suspension seals have a lot of wear or dry rot by that point.

My recommendation is that you stick to looking for a hardtail within your budget. They will be more reliable due to their simplicity. Until your physical fitness improves, it's not going to make much of a difference whether you have rear suspension or not when we're talking $300.

I checked around the Pittsburgh listings, and you're right...selections are extremely limited. Your stand over height is also going to limit some things, but I found the following. When it comes to average frame sizing charts, you would fall into the small category, and maybe nudge into the lower rung of the medium category. This will depend on you actually trying each individual frame.

Gravity G29 singlespeed 29er (19 inch frame)

Jamis Trail X Mountain Bike

diamond back response xe

None of these bikes are killer deals, or even performance oriented, but all are sturdy and adequate. They will get you back onto the trails with minimal regular maintenance.

edit - also drop by your local bike shops, and see what they have on their used bike racks. You might find stuff under your budget there as well.


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## Gundam168 (Dec 19, 2012)

backwoodz said:


> I think your right chef I just looked up Urt on wiki ( didn't know what it meant lol) I was actually really worried about this myself after reading his comment because my old bike was a urt and it was hell to get anywhere on everytime I pedaled the bike would bob like crazy.
> 
> Urt bikes seem to all have the bottom bracket on the triangle atleast everyone I seen did. So I'm hoping that this won't have a crap ton of bob like my old bike.
> 
> ...


I have an 11 year old POS URT FS bike and it's still going strong. The frame is 7005 bulletproof aluminum with just a faint wiggle on the bushing (it's 11 years old). I lost 40 pounds on that bike. My complaints about it are, there are no brackets for a disc brake assembly and I want to replace the threaded forks. I love this bike but if somebody would be dumb enough to buy it from me for $300 then consider it sold.


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## MrMentallo (Apr 10, 2013)

GregTR said:


> So if you want to solve this weight issue by simply exercising you're looking at a 40 week plan of 140 mile weeks. Uhm... Good luck with that straight from the couch! I'll see you on the injured list....


Thanks for the patronization and the assumption that I don't know basic knowledge about my chosen vocation. I wasn't asking about diet needs and the quite obvious necessity of increasing my physical activity while eating smarter. I clearly stated that that wasn't my issue. I asked for cardio advice and help with workout routines not assumptions about my diet and holier than thou superiority complexes. Welcome to my ignore list.


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## backwoodz (Apr 10, 2013)

Well I bought the bike! It was affraid I was not going to get it at first I was alittle short on cash from what the guy wanted even tho he did want a little much.. But I ended up paying $279 for the bike.

It honestly seems like it was barely ridden at all I still need to go over it better but looking at it in my living room the bike is seems like it was rarely ever used.

The Only real thing I see that worries me is there is a chip in the paint where you can tell the bike must have been jumped or something because it looks like the bottom of the seat post hit the frame and nicked the paint.. No big deal as long as there isn't any frame dmg which I can't seen any at all. Like I said the bike barely looks like it was used. I am having a hard time believing that its a 2004 the guy swears he bought the bike around 2007 from a bike shop ( The bike still has the sticker on it from the store ).. I'm thinking if it really is a 2004 maybe the store just had it for a long time.


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## Gundam168 (Dec 19, 2012)

The tires definitely look 2004. Anyway, good luck on your way to losing those pounds man. Enjoy the trails and stay safe.


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## backwoodz (Apr 10, 2013)

Checking out the bike the only thing I see that I will want to upgrade relatively soon will be the front fork.. Its not wal-mart bike bad buts its just very good either. Its in good shape it seems but I want something with rebound adjustment.. Also the bikes frame size is 20.5" i think and well I'm only 5'7" so the bike is alittle big for me But since the upper frame tube is at such an angle I can standover it fine. And really the fit feels comfortable so I think it fits pretty well.

Also I would LOVE to get disc brakes It looks like the bike has mounting for them already ( I think ) So is there any recommendations on some entry level Disc brakes that I could get for a good price when I go to buy the shock aswell. 

EDIT: Also looking at the cranks they look kinda cheaply made so I might want to upgrade those aswell if anyone has any ideas.
Thanks,
Jeff


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## chef7734 (May 4, 2011)

Start with the owners manual. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Qvo0POXy5Inv8F3uCIBRAJA&bvm=bv.45107431,d.cGE

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## chef7734 (May 4, 2011)

Pm,sent

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## Gundam168 (Dec 19, 2012)

backwoodz said:


> Checking out the bike the only thing I see that I will want to upgrade relatively soon will be the front fork.. Its not wal-mart bike bad buts its just very good either. Its in good shape it seems but I want something with rebound adjustment.. Also the bikes frame size is 20.5" i think and well I'm only 5'7" so the bike is alittle big for me But since the upper frame tube is at such an angle I can standover it fine. And really the fit feels comfortable so I think it fits pretty well.
> 
> Also I would LOVE to get disc brakes It looks like the bike has mounting for them already ( I think ) So is there any recommendations on some entry level Disc brakes that I could get for a good price when I go to buy the shock aswell.
> 
> ...


Search for the "Jeep Bike" threads in the General Forums I think. Good luck.


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## chef7734 (May 4, 2011)

Gundam168 said:


> Search for the "Jeep Bike" threads in the General Forums I think. Good luck.


Why would you look for jeep bike thread?

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## Gundam168 (Dec 19, 2012)

Or this thread...

http://forums.mtbr.com/giant/`04-giant-warp-ds1-what-upgrades-353556.html

Upgrading the fork, the brakes and the crank expect to spend an additional $150.


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## chef7734 (May 4, 2011)

More like 200 for the fork, need different hubs most likely, 100+ for the brakes for disc, and 100+ for the crank.

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## Gundam168 (Dec 19, 2012)

Oh yeah I forgot. If you're gonna change the brakes to disc, you will have to change the hubs and the rim, the entire wheelset. You might as well change the entire drivetrain. 

Here are his options:

1. Get these upgrades and spend an additional $280+ on it.
2. Sell it now for as close to the $280 you paid for it and buy another bike.
3. Leave it as is and just enjoy the bike until you lose weight.


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## p08757 (Mar 15, 2012)

Gundam168 said:


> Search for the "Jeep Bike" threads in the General Forums I think. Good luck.


The Giant is NO Jeep Bike and probably can be upgraded within reason.


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## Zuarte (Nov 21, 2010)

Congrats on getting a bike. Upgrade-itis is a very easy disease to catch and hard to get rid of. You showing early symptoms already. The cost of upgrading an old bike can be prohibitive compared to the purchase price. Keep things in perspective - is it really worth throwing a couple hundred more dollars into a bike that only cost a few hundred to start with? If you're dropping the extra coin so quickly, would it have been better to have just aimed for a better bike from the onset?

Give it a tune up and just ride it for a while. Upgrade things once you're sure your skills are exceeding the performance of that part. Remember that people were riding pretty gnarly terrain back in the days before big travel and disc brakes.


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## p08757 (Mar 15, 2012)

^^^^

Zuarte hit the nail on the head. Only upgrade the parts the either brake or can't hold up to what you are trying to do.

It gets really expensive really fast.


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## backwoodz (Apr 10, 2013)

Zuarte said:


> Congrats on getting a bike. Upgrade-itis is a very easy disease to catch and hard to get rid of. You showing early symptoms already. The cost of upgrading an old bike can be prohibitive compared to the purchase price. Keep things in perspective - is it really worth throwing a couple hundred more dollars into a bike that only cost a few hundred to start with? If you're dropping the extra coin so quickly, would it have been better to have just aimed for a better bike from the onset?
> 
> Give it a tune up and just ride it for a while. Upgrade things once you're sure your skills are exceeding the performance of that part. Remember that people were riding pretty gnarly terrain back in the days before big travel and disc brakes.


Haha ya your rite. I think I am going to ride this bike until I get in good shape and can actually push its limits and while doing that save up for about a $1,500 bike. I think nowadays you can get a decent FS for $1500 I know it wont be great but it should be much nicer then what I have now


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## will-lee wonka (Oct 26, 2008)

backwoodz said:


> I know I only paid $279 for it and I would spend more then that for parts if I went to upgrade it but it might be worth doing instead of buying a better bike. I think..
> My only reason behind it is In total I would not spend more then $1,000 on a bike unless I really got into great shape and really got into more hardcore biking.
> So for $1,000 I don't think I could get a bike that would end up being much better then what this bike would end up being after upgrading it.
> 
> ...


Yes, you are mistaken in thinking that upgrading this bike to the amount of $1000 is as good as any other bike you could get for $1000, for several different reasons.

First and foremost...the Giant you purchased is far too large for you. The frame is a 20.5 inch frame and you are 5'7". Most of my friends that are 6' don't ride 20+ inch frames. At 5'7", you should be looking at getting a medium or 17-18inch frame. Maybe that doesn't sound like a big difference, but it's a bigger difference than wearing a shoe that's 2 sizes too big. And no matter how much money you throw at the bike, you can't change the frame size. It will always be ill fitting, even if you don't know realize it or not.

Second, the Warp was a very entry level bike in it's day. It's relatively very heavy and not a great performing bike. I'm not saying it's junk...I'm saying there are much much better bikes out there for the same price.

Third, the Warp suspension design is not much better than wal mart bikes single pivot bikes. Single pivots can be great bikes if designed well...the warp wasn't one of those bikes.

IMO, I'd sell this bike ASAP and find you another bike that is 1. the correct size and 2. is a hardtail. You will get a much better frame (as well as newer with much better/newer components...including a good working fork) for the same price.

It's like shoes...you may have gotten some cheap shoes that you think will work well for running, but if they don't fit well and don't perform well, then eventually, you'll just stop wearing them, stop running and they'll sit in your closet, which defeats the purpose of getting them in the first place.


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## Zuarte (Nov 21, 2010)

Backwoodz, it sound like you've been down this road before, and you seem like the kind of guy that never forgets its all about having fun in the end. That said, use your discretion and make wise choices on what you do with the bike. 

$1,000 is no small sum to want to invest in a bike, and the platform that you start with matters. As you know, dropping a grand on a modern Mustang will yield a very different result than a grand on a 10 year old one. It's kind of like that with bikes too - the platform matters. 

Worth keeping in mind if you stick with this bike - make sure you get the right rear spring for your weight. That is a foundational factor in the behavior of a coil bike. Is there a rating printed on the current coil?


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## backwoodz (Apr 10, 2013)

Zuarte said:


> Backwoodz, it sound like you've been down this road before, and you seem like the kind of guy that never forgets its all about having fun in the end. That said, use your discretion and make wise choices on what you do with the bike.
> 
> $1,000 is no small sum to want to invest in a bike, and the platform that you start with matters. As you know, dropping a grand on a modern Mustang will yield a very different result than a grand on a 10 year old one. It's kind of like that with bikes too - the platform matters.
> 
> Worth keeping in mind if you stick with this bike - make sure you get the right rear spring for your weight. That is a foundational factor in the behavior of a coil bike. Is there a rating printed on the current coil?


Ok I'm going to warn ya'll the following post is all over the place lol

Chef was nice enough to link me the bikes manual and Since the frame is way to big for me the rear spring is actually a heavier spring since its made for larger riders so the suspension fits my weight just not my height lol..
20.5" 700 lb/in 90∼110 kg (198∼242 lb)

Yah I will admit the bike is big for me the only reason I can stand over it is because the upper tube is at such an angle.. I know its not a good bike I know that for sure But it was $279 so I will ride it until I get in better shape and then buy something better I tihnk.. Thing is money is not easy to come by so whatever I get next has to be at a decent quality that I wont grow out of it for a long time. $1000 is huge when you are not working. But at the same time I cannot stand hard tail bikes.....

And I'm talking Down the line when I actually get in shape Not rite now.. I'm going to ride this bike until im sick of it since it was cheap and im broke.

I really really dislike hardtails and I "know" that people say if your spending less then $1000 to buy a hard tail but I cant do it.. If I'm spending that kind of money I want a FS bike..

And honestly I never plan to race and THis is just a hobby and something to do to stay healthy and have fun. I think a $1000 FS bike nowadays or especially a few year old used one would probably be well enough for me for a long time..

I think the definition I have of a decent bike and the definition some other folks have if different 

I'm thinking if things go well next year I might try to replace with bike with something in the $1000 range IF I can afford it.. I'm just in a tough spot because I lost my drivers license from some bad decisions with drinking resulting in a pretty bad wreck. ( Havnt drank in 3 years since then tho) And I fell into a really bad depression which I have been trying to get myself out of for over 2 years now. After the wreck I have been sitting in the house doing nothing for almost 3 years and living a completely sedentary lifestyle. I have not been excited about anything for a few years at all until thinking about getting back into biking now and getting healthy..

So Im really excited about getting back into mountain biking and I am probably getting ahead of my self ..

Thing is tho Once I get healthy again so I have some damn motivation and energy I need to get my license back and get my life back together to get back to work.. THis bike I just bought is kinda the stepping stone to getting my self back together again. I know when I get myself healthy again that I will have the motivation to get the things I need to get done, done.

And I also know that I am going want to stick with mountain biking to keep myself healthy so I want to eventually get another bike that will last me a long time.

I also need to buy another car tho so I am hoping this bike gets me healthy so I can get my **** together get back to work and buy another vehicle and then buy a better bike to keep myself healthy and active and into the sport.

I know I just went all over the place with this reply lol hopefully you can follow it..


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## chef7734 (May 4, 2011)

Your attitude matters more than the bike to me. Do as much as you can with what you have. I would say the same thing to someone with a walgoose. Go out and ride and love it. Get better and use the bike till you outgrow it or break it. Get your life back in order and hopefully when you are able to afford a better bike you will love the sport and bee good at it.


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## GregTR (Mar 28, 2013)

Well you got the bike now. It's more about riding it at this point. For someone who's primary goal is to lose weight, get in shape, enjoy the ride and not to be the KOM this bike will do more than fine. You can rationalize the size being a match for your weight but ultimately when you're ready both physically and financially you will get a new(er) better smaller bike.

You have to realize that
1) people giving advice tend to forget that they're way ahead of the newbies.
2) The rate of diminishing return on bike cost vs. features is rather huge
3) Upgrading components is always a lost cause that ends up costing a lot more than buying a whole thing.
4) Most people who talk about must have upgrades couldn't tell the difference between a XTR and a Deore derailleur in a blind shifting test.
5) Most of the things you're wishing for are wants and definitely not needs.
6) Ride the damn thing already!


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## Fajita Dave (Mar 22, 2012)

This turned out to be very long but this is my experience with mountain bike for the past three years.

As long as you can ride such a large frame I wouldn't worry about it for now. Just make sure you go out an ride it.

So what is your major problem with a hardtail? I know you mentioned riding dirtbikes before so the FS is familiar to you but that's really no excuse in mountain biking terms to spend an extra $800 than you need to. The only three exceptions I can think of for NEEDING an FS is if your riding a true downhill course, your local trails are very rooted and / or rocky, OR you have a bad back.

I've been racing motocross since I was 9 years old. (17 years). I happily ride my cheap 09' GT Avalanche 3.0 hardtail that I bought new for $420. I bought a large 19" frame even though I'm 5'8" because it "felt" more like my dirtbike. However, after a few months of riding I realized I should have bought the correct size frame; I would have been much better off. Mountain biking is not like riding a dirtbike.... The only major issues with the bike were the cheap wheels that I kept tweaking out of round and the friction in the cheap Suntour forks. I bought a new double walled wheel set for $220 and disassembled the fork to find the friction. I fixed the issue with the forks and now it works almost as smooth as a $400 RockShox fork only without the adjust ability. The forks worked fine before I "fixed" them but now they just work better and it was free. Minor issues would include the constant adjustment of my cheap derailleur / shifter, the lack of braking power, and the bottom bracket that almost seized (which I then lubed with motorcycle wheel bearing grease). I've spent hours of my time maintaining this cheap bike instead of riding it. I also planned on upgrading all of these cheap components until I did the math and realized I could buy a nice FS bike for the same price all of those new components would cost.

I'm not saying you shouldn't get a full suspension bike. I plan on getting one myself when I save up the money. My point is your priority for buying a new bike should be *getting a bike with quality components.* That way you'll end up with a nice bike that wont *need* to be upgraded like I did with mine. For the money I put into my cheap Avalanche I could have bought the next step up, never would have had to upgrade it, and all of the components would have been more reliable and needed less constant adjustment along with much stronger brakes.

A good base line FS bike is about $1600 and you should get pretty good components on that, however, you may not have $1600 to spend. On the other hand you could buy an $800 hard tail (26 or 29er) with some very nice reliable components, a solid frame, good brakes, and a decent fork all of which will serve you well for thousands of miles with routine maintenance. If you have the opportunity to buy a decent quality used FS bike I wouldn't hesitate to do it.

Like I said at the beginning you my as well ride the crap out of that Giant but when it comes time to buy a new bike don't be so dead set on FS. Ride some 26 and 29er hard tails at your local bike shop and decide what your wallet can handle.


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## borabora (Feb 16, 2011)

Ride! Rinse and repeat. I think you are getting some good advice here but to begin with go out there and ride a lot on the bike that you have. Invest in a computer and log your distances, hours and if possible climbing feet. Do this on a spreadsheet or a piece of paper or use something like strava to track for you. Get obsessed and ride more and more. Estimate you calories expended and track those. Track you weight and your weight loss. Have fun and become a good rider.
After you have done this for 6 months or so you will know if you can and want to keep it up and what your bike's weaknesses are. You'll also understand that if you ride 300-500 hours a year a bike can be relatively cheap entertainment. If you are properly obsessed you'll find a way to get yourself a $1500 bike or used equivalent. And you'll know that this is one of the most responsible ways to spend that kind of money because if $1500 can pave the way to be a healthy, happy and productive human being for the the next let's say 10 years then that's one frigging bargain.
I agree that most people buy too much suspension but you can cross that bridge when you get to it and budget and your established riding style need to be reconciled.


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## chrisaz82 (May 21, 2012)

Ignore the doomsayers. The Warp is just fine as a fitness bike and probably won't give you any trouble at all.

Before you spend a single dime on any upgrades, ride, ride some more then ride again. Upgrade the parts that YOU discover you don't like. If you listen to people on here, you'll be upgrading every single part 10 times because every part no matter what you buy will always be inadequate to someone else's standards.

*Buy and ride a bike that feels good, the rest really doesn't matter*

I started out at 260lbs on a Giant Revel ($300 "pos" bike by MTBR standards) and rode the snot out of it. Dropped 70 lbs and rode uncounted miles on the thing without ever braking any of the "entry level" components. I ended up going full suspension after that because I became very addicted to the hobby.

So long story short, don't upgrade anything until YOU decide you have a problem with how that particular component performs. Don't worry about the so called "old, terrible suspension design" on your frame because just like me, you aren't a pro rider who can push it to the limit and you won't notice the difference between it and a $3000 new machine anyway.

When you do decide to upgrade the whole bike, there are many many GREAT full suspension bikes out there for under $1000 especially if you're willing to shop around for clearance models.


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## TikiGoddess (Mar 24, 2013)

chrisaz82 said:


> Ignore the doomsayers. The Warp is just fine as a fitness bike and probably won't give you any trouble at all.
> 
> Before you spend a single dime on any upgrades, ride, ride some more then ride again. Upgrade the parts that YOU discover you don't like. If you listen to people on here, you'll be upgrading every single part 10 times because every part no matter what you buy will always be inadequate to someone else's standards.
> 
> *Buy and ride a bike that feels good, the rest really doesn't matter*


Wise advice. At the end of the day it really doesn't matter how much your bike costs or what sort of high end components you have on it. It's hardly going to matter if you're just starting out and chances are, when you progress into this hobby, you're going to want to get a better bike anyway. Just keep on riding and get the feel of it and when the time comes that you outgrow your bike (skills-wise) then shop around, do your research and upgrade to something that suits your biking needs. You'll get the best bang for your buck with a complete bike than slowly building up an old bike anyway.


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## goodmojo (Sep 12, 2011)

MrMentallo said:


> Thanks for the patronization and the assumption that I don't know basic knowledge about my chosen vocation. I wasn't asking about diet needs and the quite obvious necessity of increasing my physical activity while eating smarter. I clearly stated that that wasn't my issue. I asked for cardio advice and help with workout routines not assumptions about my diet and holier than thou superiority complexes. Welcome to my ignore list.


the challenge is that exercise wont help you to lose weight except at extremely high volumes. When you exercise more you are going to eat more. You only need a 100-200 daily calorie deficit to lose weight. Any more than that and you will be pretty hungry. At 100-200 calories per day you will lose about a pound a month. If you want to lose faster, then go for more, however that is hard to sustain over the long term. The point is these calorie deficits are actually pretty small and exercise can actually make it harder because you will be hungrier. Now as far as cardio health biking is great. For losing fat, building muscle with weightlifting is extremely effective - deadlifts, squats and bench press are the core.


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## goodmojo (Sep 12, 2011)

what is your terrain like? A hardtail will most likely be totally fine for the types of trails you will go out on as a beginner. Even if you eventually get a more expensive bike, a hardtail is a bike you can always use (I have a $5K full suspension bike and a less expensive hardtail) I like to ride both.


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## alxxG (Apr 25, 2013)

backwoodz said:


> Ok I'm going to warn ya'll the following post is all over the place lol
> 
> Chef was nice enough to link me the bikes manual and Since the frame is way to big for me the rear spring is actually a heavier spring since its made for larger riders so the suspension fits my weight just not my height lol..
> 20.5" 700 lb/in 90∼110 kg (198∼242 lb)
> ...


Hows the bike going ?

I'm looking at a warp for both mtb and commuting .
Looking for a cheap bike to use for next six months, then if I've stuck at it, I'll go for something decent.

This is the second time around on the auction, was asking $250 first time around.
$75 is tempting 
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d?r
though I'm expecting to have to put in a bit.
Looks like new chain ,possibly rear cassette, new brake pads
(new bell - have to have a working bell to ride on the road in NSW)

So things to check for are:
cracks on the frame by the welds
buckles in the wheels
movement of the shocks - dried out or not, leaking damper

I'm in a similar situation weight wise ,though have dropped 32kg (70lbs) since Aug 2011 , got up to 132.5kg (291lbs).Six foot and currently 101kg(222lbs). Need to drop another 10kg (20lbs) to burn off the belly.

Been on a keto diet since xmas and dropped 11kg so far this year - gym , bikram yoga and walking plus bit of archery (target).
Been keeping a cal deficit of 400 cals a day.
80 minutes cycling (40 to and from work) should up my fitness nicely
(plus usual 3 gym sessions and 3-4 bikram yoga classes a week)


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