# Fork won't budge.



## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

I was on here four days ago asking about upgrading my RockShox Dart 2 100mm. I think she found out because she's not moving at all. I can throw all my weight onto the fork and it will not compress more than half an inch . Can someone explain what's going on and how much it's gonna cost?

Update: Sorry for not specifying, the fork won't compress. I'm not locked out.


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## drblauston (Aug 27, 2011)

hmm could you clarify what you're trying to do? are you turning the bars and the fork won't move or have you already removed the headset cap and stem and are trying to drop the fork? what's been ordered that the Dart's jealous of? hehe..

Edit: If you can get to a LBS they would be very happy to help you out too, if you bring in the replacement they should cut the steerer tube and install everything, including brake installation for around 40-50$


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## krott5333 (Aug 6, 2009)

I assume you are trying to take the fork out of the bottom of the headset? 

Hit it with a rubber mallet after removing the headset cap and stem and any spacers.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

WillT said:


> I was on here four days ago asking about upgrading my RockShox Dart 2 100mm. I think she found out because she's not moving at all. I can throw all my weight onto my fork and I can move it less than half an inch. Can someone explain what's going on and how much it's gonna cost?


If your talking about the fork not compressing it might be covered by warranty.


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## ttthai (Oct 3, 2011)

Maybe the lockout is engaged.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Might have some interesting headset in your bike. Remove what ya can from the top headset cup, leaving just the cup that's pressed into the headtube and the bearing that lets you steer. Might be some sort of compression or seal thingee that keeps the bearing tight around the steerer that is getting wedged when you are trying to uninstall the fork. Just a guess. We're all basically shooting in the dark because you aren't providing many details or pics.


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

Sorry for not specifying, the fork won't compress. I'm not locked out.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

I really didn't want to really ask the equivalent of asking if its plugged in, but did you alter the oil level or air pressure? Did you spray it with high pressure water or submerge it in water? Does it make any peculiar sound when you do get it to move 1/2"? If so, what kind of sound? Metal grating? Liquid sloshing? Creaking? Clunking? Rubbing? Some sort of air/oil mix like a sucking sound? Basically, we need more details to troubleshoot the problem.


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

Varaxis said:


> I didn't want to really guess the obvious, but did you alter the oil level or air pressure? Did you spray it with high pressure water or submerge it in water? Does it make any peculiar sound when you do get it to move 1/2"? If so, what kind of sound? Metal grating? Liquid sloshing? Creaking? Clunking? Rubbing? Some sort of air/oil mix like a sucking sound?


No noise. I push down and it slowly goes down (when a large force is applied) and stops. It was working fine yesterday when I rode FATS. I went for a short ride today and it won't compress. I've sprayed my entire my bike off with water. I don't see what that could do. This was a few weeks ago. I store my bike upside down if that has any effect.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

crappy seals + water sprayed on them = contaminated fork internals and if the bike has been hanging for a few weeks since, there's likely some rust inside, too.


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## Jim Holloman (Oct 3, 2011)

WillT said:


> ...I store my bike upside down if that has any effect.


I would recommend that your store the bike right side up. Apparently, your fork has oil in it. And, it is possible that the oil is sweeping into an area, or space, that would cause problems. Let it stay upright for a couple of days and see if it makes any difference.

If you have a lockout lever, the level may not be properly mounted so that the fork is locked out when it appears not to be. I don't know how the lever would be "keyed" on your fork.

The orifice in the fork could possibility be blocked with some foreign material. This would be detected only through disassembly. Water in a fork could produce a hydraulic lock. But, it would take more than a couple of tablespoons of water.

How old is the fork? Could it have rust or corrosion internally?

If the cause is not being upside down, then there is probably not anything that you can do to resolve the problem. A replacement (if under warranty), or service by a qualified person, would be in order.


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

How hard is it to pop open and take a look inside? Should I take it to the shop?

It's a 2010 Yukon FX the fork is stock so It's 2 years old.


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## Jim Holloman (Oct 3, 2011)

WillT said:


> How hard is it to pop open and take a look inside? Should I take it to the shop?


The side that has the coil spring (left side on my RockShox) is usually relatively easy to open up. On mine, it is one small phillips screw and then a large nylon screw that I use a medium sized crescent wrench to remove. Yours may be different. The other side, and the side that is most likely causing a problem, is best left to someone that has experience with forks.

To remove the spring on my XC 32 fork, a hex bolt on the bottom is loosened about 4 turns, then tapped with a small block of wood and a hammer (or tap the hex wrench while in the hex bolt), and then completely removed. The spring will then pull out.

Here is the RockShox tech. manual (9.8 MB, published in 2008):
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/rockshox/dealers/TM_MY08_E.pdf


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## Eckstream1 (Jul 27, 2011)

How is your preload set?
There is a knob on top of the left side of the fork... Make sure the knob isn't turned all the way to the right.

If that doesn't solve the problem take it to your LBS...


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## S_Trek (May 3, 2010)

WillT said:


> How hard is it to pop open and take a look inside? Should I take it to the shop?
> 
> It's a 2010 Yukon FX the fork is stock so It's 2 years old.


Youtube this

RockShox Lower Leg Removal


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

The preload was turned all the way to the negative side. The preload cap was snug but I could still turn the actual piece not just the nob at the top.
I took it out the piece and realized the preload was so tight on the negative side it wouldn't turn. I've added a little to the positive side. I think it's compressing more, and the fork is squeaking now.


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## maxforce (Mar 8, 2011)

Most forks are very easy to pull apart and just having a look inside usually reveals the problem. Bikes are so easy to work on your self.


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

maxforce said:


> Most forks are very easy to pull apart and just having a look inside usually reveals the problem. Bikes are so easy to work on your self.


$100 isn't a lot to throw away in mountain biking but I'd be more comfortable opening my fork if someone told me what was wrong and if the squeaking is a serious problem.


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

maxforce said:


> Squeaking sounds and loss of travel sounds like the lubricant is all gone. Forks usually come apart after you remove the screw or nut at the bottom of each leg. They just slide apart and you can have a little look and slide them back together. There is nothing to break, nothing else you need to know and you won't even get your hands dirty.
> 
> When they are apart take a few small pictures and upload them for us too see. It is fun looking inside things to see how they work and a picture tells a thousand words.


You're my new favorite person. I'll have a few pictures up in a couple of minutes.


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## maxforce (Mar 8, 2011)

Squeaking sounds and loss of travel sounds like the lubricant is all gone. Forks usually come apart after you remove the screw or nut at the bottom of each leg. They just slide apart and you can have a little look and slide them back together. There is nothing to break, nothing else you need to know and you won't even get your hands dirty.

When they are apart take a few small pictures and upload them for us too see. It is fun looking inside things to see how they work and a picture tells a thousand words.


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

RockShox Lower Leg Removal - YouTube

I've watched that and tried to get my lower leg off and it's not going anywhere. I'm probably
doing something wrong. Do I hit it with the hammer? Should oil come out?


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## Jim Holloman (Oct 3, 2011)

WillT said:


> RockShox Lower Leg Removal - YouTube
> ...Do I hit it with the hammer? Should oil come out?


See Post #13. I believe yours would be the same.

Your fork should have oil in at least the right side. Once the bottom screw is removed, it should drain out. See Pages 6, 24 and 25 for info. regarding oil:
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/rockshox/dealers/TM_MY08_E.pdf

I don't know if you will find oil in just the right side -- or in both sides.

Also, see Step 2 of:
05 - ROCK SHOX Lower Leg Removal - YouTube


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

Would it mess anything up if I didn't take off the lower arm and just took off the top two caps?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

WillT said:


> Would it mess anything up if I didn't take off the lower arm and just took off the top two caps?


Probably not, but I can't say for sure. On my fork (Fox Float RL), taking the upper caps off doesn't really do much. You can sorta look down in the air chamber, but you can't see anything of substance. On the right leg, you absolutely have to remove the lower bolts to even take the upper cap off.


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

Alright, I tried everything to get my lower arm off and it won't go anywhere. I took off the bottom bolts. Tried hitting it with no success. I saw on my lockout side there was a bolt, tried turning it but it was just the lower part of my lockout assembly. I've taken out the spring and the top of my lockout assembly. How epically have I f'ed up my bike?


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## maxforce (Mar 8, 2011)

Nothing is f'ed up but it seems you have done all you can. Reassemble and take it to the bike shop. Don't buy a new fork yet, this one still has plenty of life left in it.


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## mullen119 (Aug 30, 2009)

When you take lower off, you unthread the bolts half way and tap the bolt(not the lowers) with a hammer to loosen everything up. They should just slide right off after that. It looks like your damper is broke in the picture, but it my be hydro locked. Take the lowers off and try pushing the damper side plunger into the fork. If it doesnt move the damper is stuck locked out. If the lowers on the damper side are completely filled with oil its hydro locked.


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

mullen119 said:


> When you take lower off, you unthread the bolts half way and tap the bolt(not the lowers) with a hammer to loosen everything up.


That's what I tired and nothing happened. I took it to the local bike shop. $40 for a full service. I feel like an idiot for even trying this. haha


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## Eckstream1 (Jul 27, 2011)

WillT said:


> That's what I tired and nothing happened. I took it to the local bike shop. $40 for a full service. I feel like an idiot for even trying this. haha


Don't worry about it man... It was a learning experience! :thumbsup:
Did they say what the problem was?


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

They said they will call me tomorrow and let me know


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## mullen119 (Aug 30, 2009)

WillT said:


> That's what I tired and nothing happened. I took it to the local bike shop. $40 for a full service. I feel like an idiot for even trying this. haha


If thats what you did, you did everything right. Chances are its a bad bushing in the lowers the made the lowers freeze up. Let us know what they say.


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

They just did a full service. I don't know what that actually means but the mechanic said I
broke my rebound at the bottom and it's going to slowly leak oil. Apparently I didn't fully
engage or disengage my rebound to take off the lower fork. I'm thinking about just calking it onto the lower arm. 

I'm not 100% what I broke or how it works but I was also thinking about removing one the bottom washers so the twist cap could go in deeper.


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## maxforce (Mar 8, 2011)

I am sorry I told you to pull your forks apart. I didn't know they would break.


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

maxforce said:


> I am sorry I told you to pull your forks apart. I didn't know they would break.


Dude, it's all part of the sport. I never thought it would be that complicated to take apart. The videos online made it look a lot simpler. I'm selling all my old paintball gear for $400, I'm planning on taking some of that to buy a new fork.


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## scootnandbikin (Dec 6, 2011)

+1.


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