# X-Fusion Slide RL2



## kjlued (Jun 23, 2011)

I read the reviews but there are only 2 on this fork. 
I know it will be a hell of a lot better then the pogo stick on my bike now (lowest end suntour) 
In general for a budget fork how is this?

Price wise, it compares to the Recon but feature wise, it seems to compare to the Reba. 
If you were looking at price, would you rather have a Recon or a Slide. 

Keep in mind, I am a beginner and do not want to dump a ton of money in this bike (Diamondback Overdrive) and hope to get a much nicer FS29er next year. I just want to make it a little nicer to ride until then. 

Thanks


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## IF52 (Jan 10, 2004)

IIRC it is basically the 29er version of the Velvet and Enix forks. You can probably more information based on reviews of those forks. My impression of the Enix on my wifes bike is that it is a pretty nice well made single air fork, but I don't personally have any ride time on it. Other people I know in the bike biz are fairly impressed with what X-Fusion has to offer.


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## Mojo Troll (Jun 3, 2004)

Seeing how it appears your at the beginner stages and want to progress and get another bike next year.

Maybe purchase a used steel rigid fork for around $40 and slap a 2.25ish or larger tire on the front. For a 100 dollar bill you have a better front end and far less dissapointment with the current Suntour. The money saved can go towards your next bike.

Do some research on rigid forks. As to how they make you a better rider. Theres enough info here on MTBR to write a half dozen books on the topic.


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## gribbles (Dec 12, 2011)

I'm very happy with the Slide on my Scott. The bike came with a crap suntour fork and I weigh around 250 lbs, the coil fork with close to zero adjustment just plain didn't work for me. 

For someone who needs the adjust-ability and control of an air fork without spending too much I'd recommend the Slide every time. 

However, if you are planning to upgrade your bike in a year, I wouldn't bother as you wont get your money back (unless you plan to swap the fork to the new bike). I bought my bike knowing I was going to replace the fork after a few months, but was and still am happy with everything else on the bike.


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

I just replaced the Fox Float RL (100mm) on my Trek HiFi, and I couldn't be happier. The X-Fusion is an upgrade in every aspect of the fork. The travel seems to be a true 120mm, whereas the Fox would struggle to give 80mm, let alone 100mm. It slackens the bike a little bit, but that's OK with me since it actually handles better now. The lock-out works great on the climbs I do here in Colorado, too. For $300, I wouldn't hesitate to pull the trigger.


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## kjlued (Jun 23, 2011)

gribbles said:


> However, if you are planning to upgrade your bike in a year, I wouldn't bother as you wont get your money back (unless you plan to swap the fork to the new bike). I bought my bike knowing I was going to replace the fork after a few months, but was and still am happy with everything else on the bike.


I don't plan on getting rid of the current bike when I upgrade. 
Next bike will be a full suspension and I want to keep hard tail.

That being said, upgrade won't go to waste.


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## kjlued (Jun 23, 2011)

Mojo Troll said:


> Seeing how it appears your at the beginner stages and want to progress and get another bike next year.
> 
> Maybe purchase a used steel rigid fork for around $40 and slap a 2.25ish or larger tire on the front. For a 100 dollar bill you have a better front end and far less dissapointment with the current Suntour. The money saved can go towards your next bike.
> 
> Do some research on rigid forks. As to how they make you a better rider. Theres enough info here on MTBR to write a half dozen books on the topic.


I get what you are saying but my area just really isn't suitable for rigid forks IMO. 
Sure, there are a few that run them but very few and you don't see them on the harder trails. In fact, you mostly see full suspension bikes around here.

(I live in the mountains of Western NC near Asheville.)


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## gribbles (Dec 12, 2011)

kjlued said:


> I don't plan on getting rid of the current bike when I upgrade.
> Next bike will be a full suspension and I want to keep hard tail.
> 
> That being said, upgrade won't go to waste.


then go for it, you won't be disappointed :thumbsup:


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## Bills10HR (Nov 5, 2012)

Just wondering what you ended up doing. I just finished installing this fork on my Spec HR and only riding it around the yard it seems stiffer but soaks up the real bumps 10x better than the suntour. I plan to trail it later in the week and hope to be pleasantly suprised.


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## kjlued (Jun 23, 2011)

Bills10HR said:


> Just wondering what you ended up doing. I just finished installing this fork on my Spec HR and only riding it around the yard it seems stiffer but soaks up the real bumps 10x better than the suntour. I plan to trail it later in the week and hope to be pleasantly suprised.


Crashed the first bike and got a different hard tail with another crappy Suntour but not as crappy. Plan on getting the Rock Shox Reba when I get the fork but will still consider the slide or recon if I find a slamming deal.

Anything will have to wait til after Christmas.:thumbsup:


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## Mr Cup (May 31, 2011)

I've got a Slide on my HT and love it. Impressed with the quality of the ride. The weight of the fork is excellent as well and it dropped significant weight from a cheaper fork. 

I'm sure there are better forks out there but not in the same price range.


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## Bills10HR (Nov 5, 2012)

After a few rides I really like the fork, I am still fine tuning the fork but it is so much better than the Suntour it replaced. The Suntour would flex and twist so bad it never felt like I could be assured the bike would go where it was pointed, it seems much more accurate/planted now. I think this fork and good wheels would make a world of difference as now it appears most of my flex is in the wheels. For less than $250 I feel it was well worth it. This is without even pushing it yet, my last few rides were at a relaxed pace with my wife.

Forgot to add that the lower weight is definitely a plus, its easier to loft my 23" monster over stuff. I also changed out the bars and stem at the same time though (heavy stock steel bars were a joke).


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## Bills10HR (Nov 5, 2012)

A little update, I set the sag up to about 23mm (fork is set for 100mm travel) and went riding yesterday. We had one of our rare rain showers the night before so the trail was faster than usual. I hit a jump much hotter than usual and landed hard front wheel first and the fork took it like a champ. I compressed the fork to 94mm and it never flinched. I am pretty sure I would have folded my suntour I hit so hard. I did knock my front wheel out of round and loosened up a bunch of spokes but the fork was awesome.


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## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

I had a Reba (tuned by Push), but sold it when I sold a frameset. It was replaced by the X Fusion Slide. To be honest, they feel very, very similar--and the X fusion is quieter (the Reba always had some compression noise).

Price dependent, I would pick the X fusion.

Price independent, I would still probably pick the X fusion.


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## shockfinder (Apr 17, 2009)

I really like my Slide, but I feel there's a bit of flex. I'm a big guy at 230 lbs and it's the 9mm qr version. The new ones with 15mm TA should be really great. Mine soaks up everything really well. Big hits and trail chatter alike. I'm converting my hub to a 9mm TA in the hopes it stiffens it up a bit. I'll report back after my rides this week.


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## Mr Cup (May 31, 2011)

It's good to see another company bringing out quality options for suspension. I'm building up a Cannondale Lexi for my wife and were using a 1.5" velvet fork as well as the xfusion rear shock. Looking forward to her riding it to see the difference.


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## Alveto (Feb 8, 2009)

I'm in Maryland and we have a mix of different terrain to ride. You will not go wrong with X-fusion. That is it, Period !

Of course Fox products are sweet, but for the same quality in many areas...and with X-fusion's innovative approaches to simplifying travel it is an Awesome Deal. 

I'm dumping my Fox Talas off on my cousin...I ride X-fusion now.


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## Richard_ (Jan 11, 2012)

great post , I'm looking at replacing the Sunturd as well , the Slide looks to be the ticket


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## brianb (Apr 25, 2004)

I got a 2012 slide a couple weeks ago. Low $ on the 2012's now. It's a great fork. It's on my single speed, and with ~ 80 psi I don't really need the lockout. Very good value thus far. Very nice on the trial. (my only point of comparison is my 2006 WB Magic 100, which I also really like)


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

I just picked up a 2013 Slide 120 QR15 from Universal Cycles. My initial impressions are all positive. The fork looks great, and the build quality is nice. The lockout seems very firm. I hope to give it a shakedown ride in the next few days.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

Captain_America1976 said:


> I just picked up a 2013 Slide 120 QR15 from Universal Cycles.


I would be saying DITTO right now, I ordered the same exact fork through UC, but QBP sent me a 2012 instead of 2013. Grrr. Oh well, still snow on the ground. Let me know how you like it. I couldn't wait around anymore for the Trace... seems like it is never going to be released, so went Slide. I've heard it is very comparable to a RS Reba, maybe better build even. I had a SID and didn't like it.


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## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

Is the Trace lighter?


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

Doubt it. More travel generally means burlier - to me at least.


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## Richard_ (Jan 11, 2012)

brianb said:


> I got a 2012 slide a couple weeks ago. Low $ on the 2012's now.)


where did you get the slide , and how much ? , best I found was on Amazon for $299.00


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

SS Hack said:


> Is the Trace lighter?


About the same weight... for same travel, but much stronger. Has 34mm stanchions over the Slide's (and standard) 32, and has a one-piece crown "that increases chassis strength at that junction by over 50%"



Richard_ said:


> where did you get the slide , and how much ? , best I found was on Amazon for $299.00


Universal Cycles has both 2012 and 2013. AEBike also has them.

If you sign up for the Universal Cycles newsletter I think they still give you a 15% off coupon. If you sign up for AEBike you get across the entire website discounts which show when you log in.


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

duggus said:


> I would be saying DITTO right now, I ordered the same exact fork through UC, but QBP sent me a 2012 instead of 2013. Grrr.


After I saw your post I took a closer look at my fork, and I was in the same boat. I contacted UC, and they said even though it looks like a 12 it's really a 13. I contacted X-Fusion, and they did confirm their first batch of 13 forks went out with 12 decals and manuals. I sent them a pic of the label to confirm that it is a 13.

On a side note, I rode the fork last night, and I was overall impressed. I want to lower the pressure a bit, and ride it again.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

Thats sounds weird to me... like QBP is just trying to get rid of the 2012 stock or something. Mine had the 2012 book and it was 2012 graphics, and 2012 on the box UPC. I don't actually think X-Fusion changed anything on the Slide from 12 to 13 anyway... just graphics? I really don't know though... I just like the 13 graphics better... I'm superficial like that


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

duggus said:


> Thats sounds weird to me... like QBP is just trying to get rid of the 2012 stock or something. Mine had the 2012 book and it was 2012 graphics, and 2012 on the box UPC. I don't actually think X-Fusion changed anything on the Slide from 12 to 13 anyway... just graphics? I really don't know though... I just like the 13 graphics better... I'm superficial like that


Graphics change, but '13 also gets options like tapered sneerers and 15mm thru axles (and the various permutations there of).


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

X-Fusion confirmed that mine is a 13. I should have been able to figure it out on my own because it has a QR15


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

Captain_America1976 said:


> X-Fusion confirmed that mine is a 13. I should have been able to figure it out on my own because it has a QR15


Hey, did you get yours through Universal Cycles as well? SO... I just got off the phone with Universal and they are still trying to sort it out, but it wasn't a QBP error... it is an X-Fusion error. Supposedly a bunch of 2012 forks with manuals with 2013 boxes and/or item numbers. What a mess.

2012 Slide did have tapered option and 15mm axle. Not thrilled about my first experience with X-Fusion so far, hopefully the fork works better than their organization.


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## Golden_Monkey (Dec 9, 2012)

Does anyone notice a lot of stiction with the Slide? It doesn't affect performance at all, since after the very first bump it's gone, but it does seem to have more stiction than the RS Reba on my other bike, or the Recon it replaced.


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

duggus said:


> Hey, did you get yours through Universal Cycles as well? SO... I just got off the phone with Universal and they are still trying to sort it out, but it wasn't a QBP error... it is an X-Fusion error. Supposedly a bunch of 2012 forks with manuals with 2013 boxes and/or item numbers. What a mess.
> 
> 2012 Slide did have tapered option and 15mm axle. Not thrilled about my first experience with X-Fusion so far, hopefully the fork works better than their organization.


I got mine through Universal. Its a 120 with straight steer tube and QR15. Honestly it doesn't bother me much. According to X-Fusion I got what I paid for. I don't care if it has the 12 graphics on it. My ride experience so far is positive.


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## fab4 (Apr 28, 2007)

You can also get the X-Fusion Slide RL2 29er fork at ebay for as low as $250 depending on the travel and steerer dimension.
items in X-Fusion Slide RL2 29er store on eBay!


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

Captain_America1976 said:


> My ride experience so far is positive.


Good to hear! The reviews of all X-Fusion forks across the board are all positive... so I'm sure it will be worth it. I bet the price will go up on all of them when the company gets a little more organized and well-known. Then we will be missing the days of affordable X-fusion forks with the occasional mix-up


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## Bills10HR (Nov 5, 2012)

After a few hundred miles on mine I love it, my only complaint is that the fork is on the firmer side and I have to run much lower pressure than I expected. With that being said I am a rider who likes the plush feeling more.


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## Golden_Monkey (Dec 9, 2012)

Bills10HR said:


> After a few hundred miles on mine I love it, my only complaint is that the fork is on the firmer side and I have to run much lower pressure than I expected. With that being said I am a rider who likes the plush feeling more.


I noticed that too. I'll try a lower pressure than usual.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

Heard from the distributor today. X-Fusion put 2012 decals on the 2013 Slide RL2's. This isn't cool of X-fusion, not fair to the customer or the distributors. I don't like the graphics on the 12 and only ordered the Slide because they have pushed the Trace release date back like 5 times. There's no way they should be telling people they will get the 13 fork the way it looks online and then send them one with different graphics. Call it trivial, but you don't advertise something for sale and then switch it or not deliver what the customer orders. Unprofessional of them and I'm really disappointed.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

duggus said:


> Heard from the distributor today. X-Fusion put 2012 decals on the 2013 Slide RL2's. This isn't cool of X-fusion, not fair to the customer or the distributors. I don't like the graphics on the 12 and only ordered the Slide because they have pushed the Trace release date back like 5 times. There's no way they should be telling people they will get the 13 fork the way it looks online and then send them one with different graphics. Call it trivial, but you don't advertise something for sale and then switch it or not deliver what the customer orders. Unprofessional of them and I'm really disappointed.


Sounds like salesman speak. If the 13s are unchanged just tell the customer his fork is new with old decals. Best way to check is the serial number on the fork. It should have a 13 specific component or cutoff number for model change.

Order a new set of decals and replace.


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## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

You guys with those old stickers really got screwed, might want to contact the BBB.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

Just got off the phone again. I'm taking store credit and getting a White Brothers fork... done with X-Fusion. NOW the 2013 Slide forks that you see online and the RL2R's with the remote are pushed back to June! Universal Cycles told me they have 3 other people they are dealing with the same issue now, so 4 Slide forks returned to them. Not good.


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## Richard_ (Jan 11, 2012)

I'm kind of glad I went with the Recon now


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

I just purchased a 2012 Slide RL2 for 280 shipped....heck i'm excited about dropping that 1lb from the bike let alone the smoothness. My Scott Scale will now be complete......for now lol.


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

I've never owned an air fork before....am I going to need a special pump for the Slide RL2?


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

You should get one with it, but don't quote me on that. Otherwise any high pressure fork/shock pump will work.


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

dang, well i ordered one anyways to prevent not having one when i needed it.


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## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

Richard_ said:


> I'm kind of glad I went with the Recon now


 Much better stickers.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

SS Hack said:


> Much better stickers.


Hey what kind of bike(s) do you ride? I hope they aren't painted or have decals on them... since that doesn't matter... RIGHT??? Give it a rest... appearance and performance go hand in hand.


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## Richard_ (Jan 11, 2012)

SS Hack said:


> Much better stickers.


yep , and the stickers are lighter


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## Sheepo5669 (May 14, 2010)

Bull SHEET Kaptain K, rigid fork or bust!


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

duggus said:


> Hey what kind of bike(s) do you ride? I hope they aren't painted or have decals on them... since that doesn't matter... RIGHT??? Give it a rest... appearance and performance go hand in hand.


I don't care how my fork looks if it performs like it should. I am also one to not really care about the paint etc on my bike. It's a mountain bike that gets ridden hard. It show on the frame, fork, cranks etc.


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## brianb (Apr 25, 2004)

Richard_ said:


> where did you get the slide , and how much ? , best I found was on Amazon for $299.00


ebay. I bought a new one from a private party (not a store), but they are even cheaper now: $250 plus ship.
slide fork 29 | eBay


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

Just got mine in:


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

zephxiii said:


> Just got mine in


Enjoy! So did you end up getting a pump with it or no?


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

duggus said:


> Enjoy! So did you end up getting a pump with it or no?


No it does not come with a pump which makes sense given that this is a budget fork. It didn't come with a travel marker or ruler either...but it works very well from what I've read and that's all that _really _matters.


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## Bills10HR (Nov 5, 2012)

Mine didn't come with one either so I did the ziptie trick and picked up a fox pump. I do kinda like that black though (mine is white).


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## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

zephxiii said:


> Just got mine in:


Black is a nice change in a sea of white forks.


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## Juanmoretime (Jul 30, 2004)

I ordered mine on a Black Friday special. Great fork but you do have to run lower pressure, at least lower than I did on my Fox F29 RL. I would say its every bit good as the Fox. What was that Black Friday pricing? $225 shipped for a 1 & 1/8 set at 100mm Black.


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

SS Hack said:


> Black is a nice change in a sea of white forks.


Yeah, I probably would have been happy with white but the original fork was black and the frame is black so I figured I'd keep it all black .


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## RoYLsuMmiT_Hi (Apr 3, 2012)

I too ordered mine on black friday. Slide w/remote $225, internal adjustable from 100/120. so far no problems. i want to go 120mm. does anyone know how to dissemble the slide and adjust it to 12omm?

thanks.


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## Golden_Monkey (Dec 9, 2012)

RoYLsuMmiT_Hi said:


> I too ordered mine on black friday. Slide w/remote $225, internal adjustable from 100/120. so far no problems. i want to go 120mm. does anyone know how to dissemble the slide and adjust it to 12omm?
> 
> thanks.


It's a bit of work:

http://www.xfusionshox.com/images/pdf/2012_Velvet_Travel_adjust.pdf


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

Anyone know how these forks handle an Ardent 2.4 tire? I've got one in a Reba and I've been hearing the tread buzz the crown :eekster:


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

wv_bob said:


> Anyone know how these forks handle an Ardent 2.4 tire? I've got one in a Reba and I've been hearing the tread buzz the crown :eekster:


I have an Ardent 2.4 on an Arch rim. So far it's been fine.


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

Well here it is installed:


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

Oh i should add that the brake housing hold-down screw / bolt was AWOL and had to track down a new one which ended up being a M3 x 6....got a nice stainless one at the hardware store.


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

Oh and I think I need to reroute the front brake tubing behind the other tubing or shorten it...to be honest it seems a lil too long. This is my first fork install btw!


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

Captain_America1976 said:


> I have an Ardent 2.4 on an Arch rim. So far it's been fine.


Thanks. That's the same combo I have. I put an aged Manitou Minute back on the bike for now, but this low cost X-Fusion option has me thinking about getting one while I can.


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

What pressure at what rider weight do you all run with this fork?


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

zephxiii said:


> What pressure at what rider weight do you all run with this fork?


I always start with what the manufacturer recommends, and go up or down from there. My initial thought on the X-Fusion is to go down a bit. It felt a bit more firm than I like at the recommended PSI.


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

Yes. Find the chart here - http://www.xfusionshox.com/images/pdf/Air_Coil_Spring_Chart.pdf

I found that I went down 10 PSI, as it is quite a firm fork. That might change though as it gets "broken in".

Otherwise, it is fantastic.


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## Rykoh (Mar 26, 2009)

Am I correct that changing the travel on the fork will change the axle-crown height? What is the a-c height for the 100mm setup?


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

Shalom said:


> Yes. Find the chart here - http://www.xfusionshox.com/images/pdf/Air_Coil_Spring_Chart.pdf
> 
> I found that I went down 10 PSI, as it is quite a firm fork. That might change though as it gets "broken in".
> 
> Otherwise, it is fantastic.


Yeah i found it a bit firm too...but i don't want to run psi too low as I want to keep a sag to a minimum due to HT angle change.... Actually the real issue is that i discovered that this fork has an Axle to Crown that is 10mm shorter than the original fork so i am going to send it in to get it converted to 120mm.


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

Rykoh said:


> Am I correct that changing the travel on the fork will change the axle-crown height? What is the a-c height for the 100mm setup?


They list the A to C spec as 526mm @ 120mm so I would imagine the A to C will change with the travel setting.


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

zephxiii said:


> They list the A to C spec as 526mm @ 120mm so I would imagine the A to C will change with the travel setting.


Woops I forgot to mention that I have measured my Slide's A2C @ 100mm and it was around 507mm so yes A2C does vary with travel setup.

Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2


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## n74740 (May 27, 2005)

I've had my eye on this for for awhile but I've noticed that most places I've found that have it are out of stock. There are a few on ebay, but looking for 120mm, taper, and 15mm TA and those seem to be scarce. Are they way behind on production?


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## jasonf150 (Dec 12, 2011)

I'm planning on picking up one of these off eBay real soon. It seems like a good deal at $250+shipping.


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## kevocastro (Sep 23, 2011)

Is there anyone here who weighed the fork out of the box?


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

kevocastro said:


> Is there anyone here who weighed the fork out of the box?


yes:


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## Mackie (Dec 30, 2003)

*Digging my Slide so far*

Tweaked the graphics a bit, lowered the pressure to about 10psi below the rec. Really smooth fork. Very stiff vs. the 2006 Tora it replaced. 
Great value for my North East 29er beater bike.


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## RoYLsuMmiT_Hi (Apr 3, 2012)

*Slide*

Perfect for my 12' Spec Rockhopper 29er and got it down below recommended psi (-10). i'm going to bump it up 120mm to see how it rides....


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

RoYLsuMmiT_Hi said:


> Perfect for my 12' Spec Rockhopper 29er and got it down below recommended psi (-10). i'm going to bump it up 120mm to see how it rides....


It looks good in black on your bike. I'm probably going to bump mine up to 120 as well.

Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2


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## Surlydave (Feb 12, 2004)

I have only two rides on my 100mm slide, but I'm really happy with it so far. I'm running about 15 psi below the recommended psi and my take a tick more out. Even with the lower psi it still feels firm enough standing for climbs and is nice and plush on short choppy downhills. I haven't hooked up the remote lock out yet-it is stable enough where I haven't really thought about the lock out.


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## Gasp4Air (Jun 5, 2009)

I just set my Slide to 120 on a Vassago Bandersnatch I recently started riding. After one ride at 120, I put back to 100 for a couple of reasons. I couldn't seem to get the 120 to feel much more plush than the 100 setting, despite dropping the pressure and trying different amounts of rebound. And although I dropped the stem to compensate for the added crown height, it seem to change the bikes handling enough that I decided I liked it better at 100. The front end was still ok for climbing, but just didn't seem as sure footed. Of course, on a different frame it might be a different story.

One thing to note: The damper foot took some pretty good whacks to get out of the lower, and getting it back in was a b!tch. I ended up having use emery paper to ease the shoulder on the end of the damper rod that inserted into a well at the bottom to the leg.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Anyone miss not having compression adjustment? Im eye-ballinging one of the 650B forks and wondered if it was an issue


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## RoYLsuMmiT_Hi (Apr 3, 2012)

Gasp4Air said:


> I just set my Slide to 120 on a Vassago Bandersnatch I recently started riding......


Gas4air- what's the Head Angle of your bike? i was wondering if a steeper HA would affect it. i think the RH is 71˚...

thanks.


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## Gasp4Air (Jun 5, 2009)

RoYLsuMmiT_Hi said:


> Gas4air- what's the Head Angle of your bike? i was wondering if a steeper HA would affect it. i think the RH is 71˚...
> 
> thanks.


71 degrees per Vassago frame specs. Not sure if that's for 80mm or 100mm fork, which are Vassago recommended


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

Man I have to say that I'm really enjoying this fork now that I've got some miles on it.

Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2


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## silverscoob (Jun 19, 2010)

Have a Slide a RL2 and find that at 190lbs 95psi is far too much. To get 20% sag (120mm setup) running about 65psi, feels quite plush now and sag seems spot on.

So I'm using about 30psi less than recommended, anyone else reduced their pressure so much?


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

I just set mine up based on feel during a 12 hour race. Kept dropping 5-10 PSI until it felt alright. I think it is 15-20 PSI less than recommended...


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

I weigh 205ish with gear and run about 100-105PSI...based on sag. I try not to run too much sag as i lost 10mm of A 2 C with this fork and don't wanna steepen the HTA more.


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## silverscoob (Jun 19, 2010)

Thanks for the replies fellas. 
Shalom, your experience is close to mine.
zephxiii, can fully understand you running 100psi to keep geometry but must make the forks feel pretty hard. Have you been able to get full travel out of them?

Going to experiment a bit more, maybe because used to the feeling of the Pikes on my Heckler.


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

They are a bit softer overall than my Rebas or F32s in general use, but the remote lockout works well. Small bump compliance is great, and the bigger hits are also well absorbed.

As for geometry, I am running them at 100mm on a frame designed around an 80mm fork, so I am not too bothered if I am running them a little softer than designed.

I am still ecstatic about these forks performance. They are great!


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

silverscoob said:


> Thanks for the replies fellas.
> Shalom, your experience is close to mine.
> zephxiii, can fully understand you running 100psi to keep geometry but must make the forks feel pretty hard. Have you been able to get full travel out of them?
> 
> Going to experiment a bit more, maybe because used to the feeling of the Pikes on my Heckler.


I think so if I'm riding fast and taking some big hits but maybe not today if I am taking it easy. I need to measure where the travel actually stops.

Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2


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## Breitness24 (May 7, 2010)

Are there any clydes using this fork. Im in the market for one, Im 250 and want to know if this fork can work for me. Im pretty sure based on the reviews it wont flex. Currently I have a 2010 reba race that works perfectly if that helps.


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## Bills10HR (Nov 5, 2012)

I have lightened up but originally started around 230lb kitted up (now about 210lb)and this fork was awesome. I did come from a low end Suntour that would flex and twist like crazy. None of my lighter friends understood when I talked about the way the fork would "walk" all over the place as it twisted. NOTHING like that with the Fusion.


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## Bdabike (Jan 27, 2013)

My shop will have mine on by friday. 250 lbs. I will let you know soon.


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## Breitness24 (May 7, 2010)

Bdabike said:


> My shop will have mine on by friday. 250 lbs. I will let you know soon.


Thanks Please do keep us updated!!


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## Bdabike (Jan 27, 2013)

Went to the shop yesterday around noon. One of my old friends from school, class of 85, was there, putting her together for me. RL2, 125mm. Bike had 100mm previously. Set-up sag, around 108lbs. New Stans Flow wheel, Tubeless, front and rear. New, wide bars coming. Dropper soon.

By the time I was leaving, it was pouring the rain. Only got to ride around the church yard so far, but it feels 100% better than what I had. Will play with the settings a little tomorrow, on my regular loops, to compare.


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## Bdabike (Jan 27, 2013)

:thumbsup:Fork felt great. No diving, soaked up all the roots on one of the roughest downhills on our race loop. A lot less flex up front on the sharper downhill turns. Feels way more stable overall.

Makes bike feel like I am riding a full suspension. I think, because of the mixture of the fork and going tubeless for the first time. Had so much fun riding it, I didn't even lockout the fork on the uphills. I should have, because I did feel like I was losing a little power on some steeper climbs.

I found, I like the rebound set pretty much maxed out. Didn't have the pump, but will probably add some more air to fork to see what I prefer on that same loop.

Overall pleased with the fork upgrade and going tubeless.


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## Breitness24 (May 7, 2010)

Great news, this will be going on my mono flight, i have flows too tubeless. Although now i just found a deal on a lefty carbon fork at a steal. Just trying to find out why its soo cheap. but the xfusion will be bought if the lefty falls through.


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## jadis3 (Nov 18, 2007)

Is a 15mm QR made by Syntace like it was on my Velvet?


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

jadis3 said:


> Is a 15mm QR made by Syntace like it was on my Velvet?


Yes. It is a Syntace 15mm.


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## jadis3 (Nov 18, 2007)

Shalom said:


> Yes. It is a Syntace 15mm.


 Thank you for the reply. I like this Syntace axle more than other axles due to its easement in engage.


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## PhxBuckeye (Feb 8, 2010)

Does anyone who is riding the Slide also have experience with the RST M29? If so, can you compare the two?

TIA


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## krummholz! (Apr 8, 2012)

Hi guys, question about this fork. I've been running mine for a little while and have been liking it more than the reba it replaced. I started realizing that I wasn't getting full travel so I though I would check that out. The exposed stantions measure 120mm. However if I release the air the fork compresses all the way except the last 20mm, leaving 20mm exposed stantion. Does that mean its set at 100mm? It seems strange since in the travel adjust instructions it says to verify by measuring the stantions... I want it to be 120...
Any ideas?
Thanks
Jeff


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

The Slide is a 120mm fork that is adjusted internally to either 80mm, 100mm or 120mm. If you are only getting 100mm travel, it sounds like you will have to go to the tech docs and change the travel internally. Or take it to your LBS.


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## krummholz! (Apr 8, 2012)

I've got no problem adjusting it internally myself, but shouldn't the fork use all the travel of the external stantions regardless of what it is set at internally?


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

I am not too sure on that one, to be honest.

Maybe someone else will chip in....?

Maybe a call/email to X-Fusion might be in order. Either way, I would not mind finding out what you discover.


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## krummholz! (Apr 8, 2012)

Here is the answer I got from x-fusion. Very promptly I might add.


The Slide exposes more stanchion than the actual travel. A Slide set to max travel 120mm will show around 135mm of stanchion. But to verify you will need to pull the air spring out. You might have built up some air pressure in the lowers not allowing you to get full bottom. You will have to purge the air out of the lowers by relieving the pressure from the bottom of the lowers.


Looks like I have some work to do to make it 120...


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

If u want to know what travel it is set to, measure the axle to crown. The A2C should be 526mm @ 120mm. & 506mm @ 100mm.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

Also I just measured my Slide RL2 set at 100mm and it measures 135mm to the top of the lowers (not the seal).

You wouldn't want travel to use all of the stanchions as u need a Lil room for bottoming out. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

Cool. Thanks for the info. Good to know :thumbsup:


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

More good info. Thanks :thumbsup:


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## Brodon (Jul 16, 2013)

Does anyone who has this fork have a direct comparison to the recon gold? I am leaning toward getting this fork but the RS name is still drawing me in. I am curious what the advantages/disadvantages of one over the other are.


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

I have a Reba and the Slide. The Slide is a hell of a lot stiffer than the Reba (but that is a 15mm vs a QR). It also seems to be a little more "solid" (hard to describe, just seems better able to survive if anything goes wrong. Completely subjective though).

I prefer the Slide.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I have been looking at the Rockshox recon lineup and the slide RL2. I actually just ordered a Slide RL2 on Sunday. I was on a budget and got one for $300 shipped.


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## Brodon (Jul 16, 2013)

How does the slide handle the smaller stuff? In tucson our trails are littered with rocks. It's almost nonstop rolling over small to medium rock. I want as much plushness as possible for the money, especially in this aspect. Would the slide be worth it or should I open my budget a little and go for a tower pro?


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## mces (Apr 12, 2011)

Maybe its just me but I am having a tough time dialing this fork in for the small stuff. I like the overall feeling of the fork and it has a stiffer feeling than an equal Reba, but can't get it right for the small stuff????


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## rzims (Sep 7, 2005)

where are you guys finding this fork for 300? Everything I've seen is closer to 400 with a tapered steerer


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

rzims said:


> where are you guys finding this fork for 300? Everything I've seen is closer to 400 with a tapered steerer


If you sign up with Universal Cycles mailing list they send out codes every month... I'm guessing that is where. You can get 15% off anything over $300 using this months code: hotjuly15

Universal Cycles -- Product Search


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## RoYLsuMmiT_Hi (Apr 3, 2012)

ebay. $280 new. bought mines during a sale for $225 new w/remote.


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## Brodon (Jul 16, 2013)

Damn wish I could get that deal...


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I paid $280 on ebay with $20 shipping.


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## AmericanTemplar (Mar 26, 2010)

Something that I find interesting is that people in this thread are saying that X-Fusion has said that the these forks can use 100% of their set travel without bottoming out, while a poster in another thread about these forks in the Shox/suspension forum said that X-Fusion told him that he wasn't getting full travel because his fork came with too much oil in it...


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

worrptangl said:


> I paid $280 on ebay with $20 shipping.


Just an FYI X-Fusion will not warranty anything without a receipt. The fork probably will never have an issue, but it would be nice to have support if something comes up.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

AmericanTemplar said:


> Something that I find interesting is that people in this thread are saying that X-Fusion has said that the these forks can use 100% of their set travel without bottoming out, while a poster in another thread about these forks in the Shox/suspension forum said that X-Fusion told him that he wasn't getting full travel because his fork came with too much oil in it...


Was there a point in there somewhere?


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Captain_America1976 said:


> Just an FYI X-Fusion will not warranty anything without a receipt. The fork probably will never have an issue, but it would be nice to have support if something comes up.


I know and I ended up deciding that was worth the risk for the price. I mean buying anything can be a gamble to an extent.


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

Is anyone's fork kinda 'sticky' at the top end of travel? 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2


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## AmericanTemplar (Mar 26, 2010)

Mine was out of the box, but not now that it's been ridden.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

I just picked up the second to last 80mm with remote lockout for $300 here: X Fusion Slide RL2R 29er White 1 1 8" 9mm Fork Remote Lock Out 80mm New | eBay

One left! Unless you want to get the 120mm and tear it apart to set the travel yourself.

Update: Looks like they have more in stock!


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Installed! I haven't put the remote lockout on yet though. 90psi (190lbs) and rebound 15 clicks back from full fast (40 click range) feels pretty good around the block.


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## Burt4x4 (Feb 21, 2013)

Hell yeah, looks awesome.!!


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Quick review...

I got in a few loops at a local trail system today and feel I got enough ride time on the fork to give some thoughts on it.

Setup: 90psi was a bit too much so I dropped it down to 80psi, then adjusted the rebound 5 clicks toward the fast side.

The most notable improvement over my old fork (2007 Rock Shox Reba SL 29) is how much stiffer it is. The vagueness I felt with the Reba in hard cornering is gone with the Slide. The first few times I took some tight corners fast I immediately thought "Wow, that is responsive!". It goes right where you point it. The Slide is about half a pound heavier but I never noticed it on the trail. The fork absorbs the small bumps nicely and even some bigger bumps went largely unnoticed. The Slide holds up better against big bumps than the Reba did. The Reba seemed to blow through travel way too easily. The Slide seems to use as much travel as is needed.

There is a little bit of stiction when I first took the bike off the rack but it never affected the ride. It might help if I left the bike upside down over night to get some oil on the wiper seals.

Most importantly, the fork gives me more confidence. I set quite a few PR and even made top 10 on a few segments. Anyone looking for a new fork should definitely consider the Slide. At the price I got my fork, I could buy two for the price of a new Reba or three for the price of a new Fox! :eekster:


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I'm going to get my first ride on my Slide this Sunday I'm excited.


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## muzzanic (Apr 28, 2009)

It is good that you like your new Fork, But doing a back to back with a 2007 Reba isn't a test IMO.

I had 1 arrive for a bike I'm putting together next weekend & I have a new pike on my Rip9 RDO & have Revelation RCT3 on Jet9 RDO & Fox 34 & White brothers loop,on my friends Rip9's.

I do have High hopes that the X Fusion fork will be a great fork for the money & I'm very keen to see how it goes next to the other forks.



dgw2jr said:


> Quick review...
> 
> I got in a few loops at a local trail system today and feel I got enough ride time on the fork to give some thoughts on it.
> 
> ...


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

Well I just dropped my Slide off at the LBS to get the travel adjusted to 120mm... i'm stoked about getting it back!! I'll gain some A2C back and be able to run it more plush.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

muzzanic said:


> It is good that you like your new Fork, But doing a back to back with a 2007 Reba isn't a test IMO.
> 
> I had 1 arrive for a bike I'm putting together next weekend & I have a new pike on my Rip9 RDO & have Revelation RCT3 on Jet9 RDO & Fox 34 & White brothers loop,on my friends Rip9's.
> 
> I do have High hopes that the X Fusion fork will be a great fork for the money & I'm very keen to see how it goes next to the other forks.


Are you referring to the Trace or the Slide? I have a Trace which I think compares well to the contenders you mentioned. The Slide on the other hand is a 32mm chassis.


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## muzzanic (Apr 28, 2009)

car_nut said:


> Are you referring to the Trace or the Slide? I have a Trace which I think compares well to the contenders you mentioned. The Slide on the other hand is a 32mm chassis.


Both, I have a few think in the works at the moment.


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

I got my fork back today and went for the first ride with it at 120mm....


OMG it's awesome!!!!! I lost 10mm of Axle 2 Crown by switching to the 100mm of this fork compared to the original 100mm fork which made the front too steep thus forcing me to run it at like 100psi which rode too harsh. Now I'm running it at 80psi and rides nice plus I got my A2C back and the front end and bike feel normal again. I"m really happy with this fork now!!


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## bkchef2000 (Apr 23, 2009)

I am really interested in this fork but am bummed about the max rotor size of 7in. has anyone put an 8in rotor on this fork? I am 6'7" and need that extra inch of rotor size to slow my big ass down. any help would be appreciated. I would go with the trace but then my budget is out the window and I wont have enough money for the wheels and tires I will still need to get.


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

anymore longterm/updated reviews on the slide?


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## bkchef2000 (Apr 23, 2009)

bosbik said:


> anymore longterm/updated reviews on the slide?


I bought a Trace after all was said and done (I found a kick ass deal on a wheel set on ebay) It has honestly been a perfect fork for what I do. It is minimal amounts of fussing with, set rebound, fill with air, put on dirt and ride. I have experience with all the big boys of the fork world and i just really am happy with the simplicity of the fork. My old lyric that I had I would constantly fiddle with the settings making for a very uneven ride across the board. This fork just seems to work, I like to have less left to me, I just want to ride. I also appreciate the all metal internals, I am a big boy and plastic fails. Long term, I have no idea what to expect, but so far so good. I have called CS too and they are really helpful, and it is a person, in California...


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

bosbik said:


> anymore longterm/updated reviews on the slide?


Been riding mine for about 9 months now. Still behaving brilliantly. If you have any specific questions, fire away.


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

any setup tips you can give?..comparing to a tower pro how do you think it performs?


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

been riding mine since late spring....still works. I've been running PSI at around 75 or so with rebound set to pretty fast.


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

bosbik said:


> any setup tips you can give?..comparing to a tower pro how do you think it performs?


No idea how a Tower Pro rides. I can only compare to a Reba and an F32. Slightly heavier than both, but noticeably stiffer too.

I am running them about 5PSI lower than X-Fusions recommended pressure for my weight.

Aside from that, they are pretty much set and forget. I check the fork pressure weekly.


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

the slide feels stiffer than the fox? if it is i think that is a plus for a fork with that price tag. i feel that the fork weight isnt much of an issue for the price point.

time to save up then..


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## Bosshoss1979 (Sep 18, 2012)

I called x-fusion yesterday and they said to not go off of rider weight to set air pressure but use sag. Depending on your style of riding and type of trails you ride you can set the sag with air pressure. Figuring out percentage of sag you want is a whole other issue. With that said I usually just go off of feel on the trail but sag percentage is a good starting point. Anyone have opinions on rebound setting for this fork?


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## bkchef2000 (Apr 23, 2009)

Well, 2-4 weeks off the bike... My X-Fusion Trace RL2 Forks blew up, almost literally. I rode this morning and as the day went along the fork felt more and more like a pogo stick. So I came home threw them on the work bench and tore them down. Knowing that there is 20ml of 7.5wt oil in the lowers I readied the container to collect the contents only to find about 120+ ml dumping out on the floor. The RL2 damper decided it was not interested in holding the oil. Bummer as this fork is unreal, only about 3 months old. I am assuming the responsibility because I rode it with the lockout on while riding a jump line at the local trail. Thankfully it isn't injury based that I can no longer ride but a part. We shall see how good X-Fusion is at getting things back to the rider. I full assume that I will be unable to ride for the next 2-4 weeks... Bummer as the winter has shown some phenomenal riding conditions.


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## AmericanTemplar (Mar 26, 2010)

I sent mine in for warranty repair on a Friday and received it back the following Friday. Mind you I only live 3 counties away from them but turn around was still quite quick.


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## Burt4x4 (Feb 21, 2013)

YYeeeeHHHaaaaa!!
Just got my New Slide RL2 Black off EBay!!!
Gooood By Suntour Pogo-Stick 

I drank alot of coffee this am...can't wait to hit the trail with it!!


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## cornice6 (Aug 23, 2007)

If anyone has any leads on a new Slide with 100mm travel, 15mm TA, tapered in black kindly let me know. TIA!


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## Burt4x4 (Feb 21, 2013)

Black seems less avail than white...I have been watching/searching the web for a few weeks and then BAMMM last night EBay 299 shipped, mine is RL2 Black 1-1/8 9mmQR 29

Anyway the good deals on this fork are out there but not an everyday find...for me anyway...just keep looking until one lands in your budjet range..


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

cornice6 said:


> If anyone has any leads on a new Slide with 100mm travel, 15mm TA, tapered in black kindly let me know. TIA!


LBS ordered one for me about a month and a half ago. It was the RL2R. I paid about the same price the Universal Cycles sells them for.

Unrelated question: Can the remote lockout be swapped of for a standard lockout? It looks to me it's not much more involved than switching out the knobs.


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## gregers05 (Jan 30, 2013)

I would like to know as well. I have the same fork and remote lockout is already broken. I used it maybe a handful of times. I would like to convert to manual lockout if I can find parts to do it


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## bradbury (Jan 28, 2014)

shockfinder said:


> I really like my Slide, but I feel there's a bit of flex. I'm a big guy at 230 lbs and it's the 9mm qr version. The new ones with 15mm TA should be really great. Mine soaks up everything really well. Big hits and trail chatter alike. I'm converting my hub to a 9mm TA in the hopes it stiffens it up a bit. I'll report back after my rides this week.


I've been trying to decide between the Slide with quick release or the suntour epicon x1 with 15TA. But you say a conversion to 9mm TA? How do you do it? I have a XT front hub with quick release - can I convert to 9mm TA? how did it work for you?


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## Burt4x4 (Feb 21, 2013)

I just installed my Slide this morning...F'n~Awesome!!!
SO much lighter than my XCT pogo!!
Now just gotta get it dirty...


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

I have a question here I hope someone can answer - 

I just purchased a Slide RL2 with my Vassago Verhauen directly from Vassago, and they said it was set at 100mm. 2 weeks in, and I am nowhere code to full travel. I have approx. 105mm of stanchion exposed, and without any air in the chamber I am getting ~82mm of travel (I could be off by 2mm). So I have 20+mm of exposed stanchion at full compression. The A-C measures out at ~506, which is what they claim is the A-C of the fork at 100mm. BUT, still not getting anywhere close to full travel. I have read here that there should be some exposed more than the travel, but no one has said 20mm (that seems like a lot?) 

Has anyone had the same experience and what was the resolution? I was going to adjust the travel to 120mm anyways, but now I am second guessing that if its going to add another 40mm to where it is now. Plus I don't have an arbor press or their damper tool (per the videos on their site) and it doesn't appear as those are for sale anywhere I can find. And I don't fancy being down 2 weeks on a brand new piece of equipment to send it back to them. 

And before someone asks if I contacted x-fusion, yes I did. If I posted their response here you'd probably be as less-than-thrilled as I was with their snarky/flippant response. I told myself never again would I own one of their products after the hilo debacle, and I caved in and got this fork because of the reviews. 1 exchange with them over a service/tech question and I sincerely regret it.

Thanks for any help or guidance -


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

blaklabl said:


> I have a question here I hope someone can answer -
> 
> I just purchased a Slide RL2 with my Vassago Verhauen directly from Vassago, and they said it was set at 100mm. 2 weeks in, and I am nowhere code to full travel. I have approx. 105mm of stanchion exposed, and without any air in the chamber I am getting ~82mm of travel (I could be off by 2mm). So I have 20+mm of exposed stanchion at full compression. The A-C measures out at ~506, which is what they claim is the A-C of the fork at 100mm. BUT, still not getting anywhere close to full travel. I have read here that there should be some exposed more than the travel, but no one has said 20mm (that seems like a lot?)
> 
> ...


I believe I measured about 135mm of exposed stanchion to the top of the lowers (not the seal) when mine was at 100mm. Axle to Crown at 100mm is approximately 506mm.

I had my LBS change the travel on mine, it didn't cost much at all and they had it done in a day I think. They were a little confused and hesitant and they thought it was already at 120mm at first but I pointed them to the service video and they figured it out.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Thanks, it was confirmed by Vassago that I have a an 80mm travel fork based on the amount of exposed stanchion, they gave me the wrong one. In true Vassago fashion they are taking care of it no problemo!


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## occamsrazor (Mar 9, 2014)

Hi a couple of possibly dumb newbie questions if anyone can help:

On the specs I see it listed as travel 80mm,100mm,120mm - does this mean 3 different models and you should buy the one with the travel you want, or the same exact model and you just adjust to how you want?

When you adjust the internal travel, does the overall height of the fork change (and thus change head tube angle) or are you just changing the internal travel and the height stays the same?

Thanks...


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## Topics64 (Jun 19, 2011)

its all internal and the A2C changes slightly with each decrease in travel


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## Topics64 (Jun 19, 2011)

my "travel" is at 100mm and it looks like a 120mm fork visually


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## occamsrazor (Mar 9, 2014)

So if I want the fork length to be like a 100mm, then I need to buy the 100mm version - if I bought the 120mm version and reduced travel to 100mm the length would be longer - is that correct?


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

occamsrazor said:


> So if I want the fork length to be like a 100mm, then I need to buy the 100mm version - if I bought the 120mm version and reduced travel to 100mm the length would be longer - is that correct?


No. Any Slide fork can be configured 80mm, 100mm or 120mm. There aren't 3 different forks, just the same fork set up differently.


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

occamsrazor said:


> So if I want the fork length to be like a 100mm, then I need to buy the 100mm version - if I bought the 120mm version and reduced travel to 100mm the length would be longer - is that correct?


If you want 100mm u should buy the 100mm otherwise you'll just have to take it apart and adjust it (and why do that?). A2C will change by how much you change the travel.

Also, I would compare the A2C of your current fork to the Slide RL2 w/ the travel you want to buy.


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## occamsrazor (Mar 9, 2014)

Thanks for the very clear explanation. On another note, in reality rather than an ideal world, how often do you have to do a service on these things? I watched the lowers service video and it seemed rather daunting, talking about damper removal tools and seal press tools. Do all these tools come with it? Do people really do all this after every 25hrs riding?


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Topics64 said:


> my "travel" is at 100mm and it looks like a 120mm fork visually


^this.

I swapped the 80mm fork for the 100mm fork with Vassago, and for the 80mm version I had it had 100mm on stanchion exposed, for the 100 it has the 120mm exposed. Visually, I thought my 80 was 100 - but the lack of ability to get 100mm of travel led us to figure out it was the 80mm version. Simple mistake, fork works great either way, just know that the stanchion shows ~20mm more than the travel you will get. Not an issue in my book, but nice to know since i have never had a fork that it doesn't almost hit the crown at full travel.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

occamsrazor said:


> Thanks for the very clear explanation. On another note, in reality rather than an ideal world, how often do you have to do a service on these things? I watched the lowers service video and it seemed rather daunting, talking about damper removal tools and seal press tools. Do all these tools come with it? Do people really do all this after every 25hrs riding?


No tools come with the fork. Your service interval will depend on your riding conditions. Lots of wet mud and you'll need it sooner. I'd imagine desert moondust would be even worse.

I'd say I average 8 hrs/week split between two bikes. After about 3 months my forks usually start to feel a little "sticky". At that point there's usually a decent amount of fine dirt built up within the wiper seals and foam ring but the oil looks like new. I'll clean the wipers, remove/clean/replace the foam rings, replace the oil and reassemble. I'll replace the wiper seals once per year.

For me and how/where/when I ride I'd say the service interval is conservative but the right order of magnitude. Dirt in the wipers and on the foam ring are starting to wear the anodize off the stanchions. If that dirt makes its way into the bushing it'll embed itself in the plastic and then act like sandpaper on the stanchion finish. Others seem to get away with timing their service with Presidential election cycles. Others seem to wear the anodize off and trash forks in 3 months.


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## mces (Apr 12, 2011)

car_nut said:


> No tools come with the fork. Your service interval will depend on your riding conditions. Lots of wet mud and you'll need it sooner. I'd imagine desert moondust would be even worse.
> 
> I'd say I average 8 hrs/week split between two bikes. After about 3 months my forks usually start to feel a little "sticky". At that point there's usually a decent amount of fine dirt built up within the wiper seals and foam ring but the oil looks like new. I'll clean the wipers, remove/clean/replace the foam rings, replace the oil and reassemble. I'll replace the wiper seals once per year.
> 
> For me and how/where/when I ride I'd say the service interval is conservative but the right order of magnitude. Dirt in the wipers and on the foam ring are starting to wear the anodize off the stanchions. If that dirt makes its way into the bushing it'll embed itself in the plastic and then act like sandpaper on the stanchion finish. Others seem to get away with timing their service with Presidential election cycles. Others seem to wear the anodize off and trash forks in 3 months.


Which specialty tools do you need to perform the above service, Spanner wrench, RLS Damper Removal Tool, Lower leg holding tool, seal press tool?


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## mtnairnc (Mar 27, 2014)

Which would you pick at the same price:

2009 Fox Fit RLC 29er in like new condition or X-Fusion Slide RL2 29er.


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

Slide. The Fox is 5 years old. No question.


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## AmericanTemplar (Mar 26, 2010)

I was never able to get my Slide to get full travel even after I sent it to X-Fusion to have a look at it. Also, I had to have the air level really low to get it even close so it bobbed a lot while I was standing and climbing. I ended up retiring it and was lucky enough to score a virtually mint Reba for $100.


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

SO....

My Slide is set to 120mm.

I recently marked on the stanchions a dot at 100mm and 120mm from the top of the seal (since this would be the reference point for my ziptie). 

I can't even get my ziptie to the 100mm mark. Running at about 70ish PSI, while coasting I can push down on the bars and get the fork to thud against the bottom out bumper. 

I guess it has one hell of a progressive ramp up and bottom out bumper system!

I need to make sure the ziptie isn't falling back down a little on the return but even during riding it never seems to get to the 100mm mark.


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

Well after taking my Slide apart I figured out why it was always sticky at the top of travel:



















There are two stripes as I had travel changed from 100mm to 120mm.

The damper leg was seems like it was contaminated by something from the very beginning.

I wouldn't think water contamination would cause this.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

How hard is it to adjust the travel on these forks? I have a 100 that I want to bump up to 120. I have adjusted the travel on a Reba in the past. The only part I can't seem to find is XF part # ASJK-ZD01-001 Any clue where I can get one?


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## Burt4x4 (Feb 21, 2013)

Here 
RL2 Fork Travel Adjust on Vimeo


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## RoYLsuMmiT_Hi (Apr 3, 2012)

where can you get that Damper Removal Tool? or is there a tool you can use to substitute that tool?


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

blaklabl said:


> ^this.
> 
> I swapped the 80mm fork for the 100mm fork with Vassago, and for the 80mm version I had it had 100mm on stanchion exposed, for the 100 it has the 120mm exposed. Visually, I thought my 80 was 100 - but the lack of ability to get 100mm of travel led us to figure out it was the 80mm version. Simple mistake, fork works great either way, just know that the stanchion shows ~20mm more than the travel you will get. Not an issue in my book, but nice to know since i have never had a fork that it doesn't almost hit the crown at full travel.


Well, the fork has gone back 2x because of an oil leak but they fixed it up and sent it back (was just an o-ring at the bottom of the fork they missed the 1st time), and they even upgraded my damper to the cartridge in the more expensive forks. Unfortunately I still cannot get full travel (100mm) out of this fork without lowering the pressure to a level where I get extra bobbing. This thing is as frustrating as a FOX as far as "less than advertised travel" is concerned. Considering the swap to rigid.


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

RoYLsuMmiT_Hi said:


> where can you get that Damper Removal Tool? or is there a tool you can use to substitute that tool?


In the PDF version of this they say just knock it out with a mallet. I found this on another forum.
so I can see why the tool is useful; when replacing the lowers not a lot of thread pops through (the tool grabs a lot more of it) and there is a risk of stripping the thread on the damping rod.
Another guy said he backed off the nut a bit then used the socket with a mallet to unseat it.

Edit: I also found a place the sells their own version. 
https://www.diymtb.com.au/displayItems.asp?cid=22


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

I wouldn't knock the damper side directly with a mallet, I would use the right size socket over it then hit that. For the air side I used an allen wrench stuck in the end of it. 

Now getting the damper rode seated back in the lowers.. the key is to use the lockout. You can tap the lowers onto the damper rod with it mostly-fully extended and locked out using a large socket or some kind. If you can use something plastic then that would be better as you won't damage the paint. 

DO NOT use the damper nut to try and pull it through! The damper nut metal is way too soft!

However, if you messed with the damper oil at all you must make damn sure you have the exact amount required for that model fork (dif wheelsizes = dif amounts) or your lockout won't work and you'll have a hell of a shitty time with [email protected]!


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

The bottom out bumper on the air side almost looked like it was 1cm thick. Add the extreme ramp up of air pressure and I wonder if that has something to do with it. I only get 100mm out of my 120mm Slide it seems.


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## RoYLsuMmiT_Hi (Apr 3, 2012)

zephxiii said:


> I
> 
> Now getting the damper rode seated back in the lowers.. the key is to use the lockout. You can tap the lowers onto the damper rod with it mostly-fully extended and locked out using a large socket or some kind. If you can use something plastic then that would be better as you won't damage the paint.


what do you mean by "use the lockout"? 
All it needs is to pull that nut out when you seat the damper rod. thats what that tool does. correct?

Xfusion shows a video how to service a fork with tools we can't get..go figure.

thanks guys


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

RoYLsuMmiT_Hi said:


> what do you mean by "use the lockout"?
> All it needs is to pull that nut out when you seat the damper rod. thats what that tool does. correct?
> 
> Xfusion shows a video how to service a fork with tools we can't get..go figure.
> ...


Except you don't have the damper tool, and you don't want to use the damper foot nut as you'll likely just strip the threads due to its soft metal.

So what you you do instead is lock the fork out which will hold the damper rod out, then you can tap the lowers onto it to get it fully seated, then install the damper foot nut. If you don't lock the fork out then the damper rod will just compress into the stanchion and you'll never get the rod fully seated unless you pulled it through with the special tool.

It would be nice if we could identify the thread type.


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## RoYLsuMmiT_Hi (Apr 3, 2012)

THANKS zephziiii!!!! 

i've been contemplating on servicing my fork and getting the damper seated was the only thing holding me back. THANK YOU!.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

zephxiii said:


> Except you don't have the damper tool, and you don't want to use the damper foot nut as you'll likely just strip the threads due to its soft metal.
> 
> So what you you do instead is lock the fork out which will hold the damper rod out, then you can tap the lowers onto it to get it fully seated, then install the damper foot nut. If you don't lock the fork out then the damper rod will just compress into the stanchion and you'll never get the rod fully seated unless you pulled it through with the special tool.
> 
> It would be nice if we could identify the thread type.


The one hangup here is that Xfusion recommends seating the rods with the fork fully compressed, which really does change the feel of the fork (and will reduce the end of stroke ramp up). I usually lock the damper out in the almost fully compressed position when I take it apart. This usually lets you press the lowers on by hand when reassembling in the compressed position and partially seat the damper rod. I'll then put the bike back together and turn it right side up, extend the fork by hand, lock it, and give the bars a good push. This seats the rod enough to get the nut back on.


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

I wasn't sure if the lockout worked at the compressed end (couldn't remember), but yeah. 

I'm not sure if it made any difference in my case though, but I don't think it was fully extended, maybe 75-80%. My fork is pretty easy to bottom out currently and I started running slightly higher psi since the 2.5w damper oil makes it move easier (and likely lowers service as well). I also put a slightly higher volume of oil bath in it too


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Got a new Slide coming in the mail. I've only ridden Fox and Rockshox. Looking forward to trying something new.


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

Thanks for all the tips. I was able to pull mine apart, extend the travel, and get it back together without too much trouble.


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## tomekkplk (Jan 19, 2014)

Glad it's working for you, book marking this as I will be getting mine in on thursday


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Had my Slide for about a year now and have had zero issues. Very happy with this fork purchase!


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## tomekkplk (Jan 19, 2014)

Well since it looks to be about a half inch too high, would you consider adding spacers? Or just cut it? I work at a machine shop so I'd be able to cut it myself, hopefully the op has the same question cause id hate to thread jack


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

tomekkplk said:


> Well since it looks to be about a half inch too high, would you consider adding spacers? Or just cut it? I work at a machine shop so I'd be able to cut it myself, hopefully the op has the same question cause id hate to thread jack


Are you asking about the steer tube? Cut it.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Mine came in the mail today. Best fork over ridden. Period. I was being shocked and excited. Roots and rocks just disappeared. Slamming into objects sent zero shock to the hands. Love this fork!


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## Qtep (May 3, 2012)

zephxiii said:


> it would be nice if we could identify the thread type.


I emailed x-fusion asking about the damper tool.. Here's what he said.

"We actually do not sell that tool. We only made a few for our certified XF Service Centers. They are very expensive to manufacture but we are making some consumer friendly versions which should become available in about a month."

"SRAM chainring back plate bolt not X11&#8230; Has the same thread pitch as the damper."


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## Burt4x4 (Feb 21, 2013)

Qtep said:


> I emailed x-fusion asking about the damper tool.. Here's what he said.
> 
> "We actually do not sell that tool. We only made a few for our certified XF Service Centers. They are very expensive to manufacture but we are making some consumer friendly versions which should become available in about a month."
> 
> "SRAM chainring back plate bolt not X11&#8230; Has the same thread pitch as the damper."


Thanks for this...watching and waiting to add to my tool box:








RIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

Picked up one of these used. I didn't notice it when i got it, but it only gets half travel before it apparently hydrolocks. I'd think that the damper oil had drained into the lowers, but the compression appears to work fine. Does anyone know what's up?


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## GT87 (Mar 18, 2014)

*Consumer friendly tool available now*



Qtep said:


> I emailed x-fusion asking about the damper tool.. Here's what he said.
> 
> "We actually do not sell that tool. We only made a few for our certified XF Service Centers. They are very expensive to manufacture but we are making some consumer friendly versions which should become available in about a month."
> 
> "SRAM chainring back plate bolt not X11&#8230; Has the same thread pitch as the damper."


I called a couple weeks ago to ask about a workaround because I figured the damper removal tool in the video would be unavailable/ prohibitively expensive. To my surprise, they offered me a consumer grade one for something like $6 and postage. The couple times I've called x-fusion I've been super impressed by how friendly and helpful they have been.


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## huckleberry hound (Feb 27, 2015)

GT87 said:


> I called a couple weeks ago to ask about a workaround because I figured the damper removal tool in the video would be unavailable/ prohibitively expensive. To my surprise, they offered me a consumer grade one for something like $6 and postage. The couple times I've called x-fusion I've been super impressed by how friendly and helpful they have been.


I just received mine. I am still waiting for my fork (UPS was suppose to deliver today but didn't). :madmax:
Anyway here are some pics of what it looks like.


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## NEET (Jun 8, 2015)

How have this Fork holding up so far? For under $300 worth it?


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## Burt4x4 (Feb 21, 2013)

100% Awesome! Mine is a 2013 and I have had ZERO issues..just works! I can't even remember the last time I had to add or adjust the air pressure. I check my sag before every ride and it never changes... aprox 800+ off road miles on mine now :thumbsup:
I keep the seals clean and smooth!!
RIDE!!!!!!!


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## gregers05 (Jan 30, 2013)

NEET said:


> How have this Fork holding up so far? For under $300 worth it?


Mine is definitely holding up well. Have had it for 3 years and have had zero issues. Well, I take that back, the remote lockout broke the first time I tried using it. Called xfusion and had them send me the parts to just convert to a non-remote lockout, but the parts dont fit.

Other than that it works great and havent even rebuilt it yet. So for the price, its hard to beat. Customer service has been excellent when i have dealt with them.


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## NEET (Jun 8, 2015)

Deleted


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

I still love mine. Zero issues over two years now and I haven't rebuilt or replaced seals yet.


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## NEET (Jun 8, 2015)

Is there any difference between the 2014 & 2015 Model for the same Price? I saw a 2015 model listed on PinkBike & the 2014 listed on eBay.

P.S Anyway to determined if your Fork is authentic / genuine ? First time buying stuff off of eBay.


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## Burt4x4 (Feb 21, 2013)

I "think" it is just the decal that is different. The pic I posted of mine is 2012 & 13 then the decal changed to what you see now.
I used EBay when I got mine 299 shipped. Just make sure the steerer tube is uncut. I have never read about fake XFusion products being sold... if the seller has a good rep I say go for it.


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## NEET (Jun 8, 2015)

I hope it is as good as people say, I place an order on the 2014 Slide. Crossing my finger for no issue.

Do you guys happen to know that MAX Tire width & rotor size for the 2014 Slide?

Thanks.


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## huckleberry hound (Feb 27, 2015)

The maximum rotor size is 180 mm which is plenty enough too stop my 250 lbs, As for the maximum tire size I have a 2.2 on mine and there is plenty of room for more as the picture shows.
And I am VERY pleased with mine,


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## Burt4x4 (Feb 21, 2013)

I too run 180mm rotor (215lbs rider) & Purgatory 2.3 Grid front tire, looks ^^^^ about the same width as above.


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## huckleberry hound (Feb 27, 2015)

I have mine set up with 30% sag and also set at 120 mm travel. It was easy to adjust the travel and you don't need the damper tool if the damper nut is 13 mm. The tool that XFusion sells won't fit. Just lock out the damper when reassembling.


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## Arebee (Sep 13, 2012)

Recently bought a Slide on-line from Niagara Cycle and was surprised to find a 2013 manual inside. No mention at all on their website that it was not a current model. My bad for not asking the question, although every other website calls out older models. That's over and done so now on to the fork: 

This is an upgrade from a RockShox XC32 coil fork on my 2012 Spec Carve, and it's easy to feel the immediate difference! I'm still dialing in the right pressure after two rides. I set the psi as recommended and found it extremely stiff which seems to be what others report. I dropped it down 5 psi on ride #2 and it's still a little stiff. Will try a little less tonight. 

A few things I'm concerned about:

1. There is quite a bit of stiction when I start out. When I say quite a bit, I mean it feels like the fork is locked-out. Once I push down hard on the bars it frees up. 
2. The stanchions seem to have a fine haze of oil on them. 
3. The fork whistles under compression. Like a whistling booger!
4. The lock out moves pretty freely. Over the course of my last ride I noticed that I was getting rattled pretty hard. That's when I noticed the lockout was half-way around. Tried to tighten the allen screw, but it was completely tight.

I guess I'm concerned that after sitting in a warehouse for 2+ years the lube on the seals may have dried out, causing problems 1-3. Not sure about problem 4.

Thoughts?


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## Burt4x4 (Feb 21, 2013)

The Slide is adjustable from 80mm, 100mm & 120mm so the exposed stanchion is the entire travel needed for 120mm setting pluse the topend. The internal setting or pin controls the amount of travel upward.
What is your's set to?
When mine hits hard I do hear it, but no whistle noise?
Lubed seals and stanchions is a good thing..just not too much and wipe done after every ride..the haze is proly packing protection 'spray' = wipe it clean.
Call Xfusion about the lockout adjuster, mine doesn't do that...
Post up a pic!!! :thumbsup:
RIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Arebee (Sep 13, 2012)

Burt4x4 said:


> The Slide is adjustable from 80mm, 100mm & 120mm so the exposed stanchion is the entire travel needed for 120mm setting pluse the topend. The internal setting or pin controls the amount of travel upward.
> What is your's set to?
> When mine hits hard I do hear it, but no whistle noise?
> Lubed seals and stanchions is a good thing..just not too much and wipe done after every ride..the haze is proly packing protection 'spray' = wipe it clean.
> ...


Here's a pic! The white doesn't match all that well with the bike, but I have some ideas!

Mine is set at 100 which is where I wanted it. X-Fusion support confirmed that my fork is a 2014. I rode last night, and I really enjoyed how the shock is performing, but I'm still need to dial down the psi a bit. The lockout adjuster did start to migrate again. It clicks, but it moves too easily. I'll contact support about that.

Thanks!


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## Arebee (Sep 13, 2012)

X-Fusion CS said the lock-out adjuster shouldn't be moving so freely. They suggest that I send it in for inspection/repair. Not happy about that.


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## MTBeing (Jan 11, 2012)

Can someone post a pic of their RL2 at 120mm of travel please? Just ordered a hardtail with it set to 120mm and now I'm wondering, with the extra 15-20mm of stanchion exposed, what that looks like/rides like. Has anyone gone back to 100mm from 120mm because it made the front end too squirly? The bike has a 5.5" headtube so I have a feeling this may be an issue but I'll give it a chance.


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## huckleberry hound (Feb 27, 2015)

MTBeing said:


> Can someone post a pic of their RL2 at 120mm of travel please? Just ordered a hardtail with it set to 120mm and now I'm wondering, with the extra 15-20mm of stanchion exposed, what that looks like/rides like. Has anyone gone back to 100mm from 120mm because it made the front end too squirly? The bike has a 5.5" headtube so I have a feeling this may be an issue but I'll give it a chance.


I have mine set at 120 mm. My bike came with a Suntour XCM 100 mm fork with 46 mm offset. The X-Fusion Slide RL2 has 51 mm offset. I also run mine with 30% sag. There is not a whole lot of difference in the way the bike turns between the two forks, but there is a ton of difference in the way it rides. I have never tried the Slide at 100 mm of travel. The first thing I did when I got the fork was changed the travel to 120 mm before I even put it on my bike. I believe my fork is a 2015 model. I weigh around 250# with gear and I am extremely pleased with the fork.

I did not need the RL Damper tool as it would not fit. It seems that they changed the damper. My damper nut is 13mm not 11 mm as shown om the video. I just locked out the damper when re-assembling the fork after the travel change. Also the travel adjust rod is different than what is shown on the video and it is easier to change than what the video shows from X-Fusion's website.

Here is a couple of pics. The first is my bike from today's ride in which you will be able to see how much of the stanchion tubes are exposed.

The second pic is the travel adjustment rod from when I was changing the travel.


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## NEET (Jun 8, 2015)

huckleberry hound said:


> I have mine set at 120 mm. My bike came with a Suntour XCM 100 mm fork with 46 mm offset. The X-Fusion Slide RL2 has 51 mm offset. I also run mine with 30% sag. There is not a whole lot of difference in the way the bike turns between the two forks, but there is a ton of difference in the way it rides. I have never tried the Slide at 100 mm of travel. The first thing I did when I got the fork was changed the travel to 120 mm before I even put it on my bike. I believe my fork is a 2015 model. I weigh around 250# with gear and I am extremely pleased with the fork.
> 
> I did not need the RL Damper tool as it would not fit. It seems that they changed the damper. My damper nut is 13mm not 11 mm as shown om the video. I just locked out the damper when re-assembling the fork after the travel change. Also the travel adjust rod is different than what is shown on the video and it is easier to change than what the video shows from X-Fusion's website.
> 
> ...


What Pedal are those and How is it.


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## MTBeing (Jan 11, 2012)

huckleberry hound said:


> I have mine set at 120 mm. My bike came with a Suntour XCM 100 mm fork with 46 mm offset. The X-Fusion Slide RL2 has 51 mm offset. I also run mine with 30% sag. There is not a whole lot of difference in the way the bike turns between the two forks, but there is a ton of difference in the way it rides. I have never tried the Slide at 100 mm of travel. The first thing I did when I got the fork was changed the travel to 120 mm before I even put it on my bike. I believe my fork is a 2015 model. I weigh around 250# with gear and I am extremely pleased with the fork.
> 
> I did not need the RL Damper tool as it would not fit. It seems that they changed the damper. My damper nut is 13mm not 11 mm as shown om the video. I just locked out the damper when re-assembling the fork after the travel change. Also the travel adjust rod is different than what is shown on the video and it is easier to change than what the video shows from X-Fusion's website.
> 
> ...


Great info and thanks for the pic. In my mind I was picturing a 140-looking hardtail or something. Not bad at all!

Sent from my C525c using Tapatalk


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## huckleberry hound (Feb 27, 2015)

NEET said:


> What Pedal are those and How is it.


They are Nukeproof Electron Evo Pedals. I just got them and this was my first ride today. They are amazing., I just had some cheap shoes on and my feet stuck like they were glued. They have two bushings and four sealed cartridge bearings per pair and roll really smooth. I ordered them Sunday night and had them on Wednesday from Chain Reaction Cycles. This was my first time to order from them and I was shocked at how fast they got here. Nukeproof Electron Evo Pedals | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## Arebee (Sep 13, 2012)

Arebee said:


> A few things I'm concerned about:
> 
> 1. There is quite a bit of stiction when I start out. When I say quite a bit, I mean it feels like the fork is locked-out. Once I push down hard on the bars it frees up.
> 2. The stanchions seem to have a fine haze of oil on them.
> ...


UPDATE:

I had a MTB weekend vacation planned, so I held off on sending in my shock for inspection. I rode for three days in some of the rootiest, rockiest, filing rattling terrain in Southeast Mass and the lock-out adjustment never moved once. Happy to see that.

Also, after reading a lot here about rebound adjustment, I dialed it back from FULL SLOW, (which was how it was delivered), to half-way and then tweaked a couple clicks from there. Half-way through my ride last night, I noticed that the "whistling booger" noise was gone! I think I have it where I want it now. It still only has about 10 rides on it, so I'll keep an eye on it.


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## V8Interceptor (Aug 24, 2014)

How does the Slide compare with the Recon Silver? Would it be an upgrade over the Recon?


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

V8Interceptor said:


> How does the Slide compare with the Recon Silver? Would it be an upgrade over the Recon?


I have a Recon gold on my other bike and I like the Slide better. Yes, I would say it is an upgrade to a Silver. Aluminum stanchions on the Slide should make it a bit lighter.


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## NEET (Jun 8, 2015)

Need a little help, I think I bought the wrong disc brake adapter. I'm trying to transfer my old Elixir R disc brake to the new bike I'm building w/ the Slide 29. Can someone link me to the correct adapter for 180 front rotor ?

Thanks


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## huckleberry hound (Feb 27, 2015)

NEET said:


> Need a little help, I think I bought the wrong disc brake adapter. I'm trying to transfer my old Elixir R disc brake to the new bike I'm building w/ the Slide 29. Can someone link me to the correct adapter for 180 front rotor ?
> 
> Thanks


It should be this one. Avid 20mm 160 to 180 Disc Brake Adapter | eBay
. You need a 160 to 180 post mount adapter.


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## gregers05 (Jan 30, 2013)

http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-F180PP2-Disc-Brake-Adaptor-180mm-Rotor-74mm-Caliper-74mm-Fork

I have this one. I also ordered the wrong one the first time


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## NEET (Jun 8, 2015)

Thanks, Does anyone happen to remember how many clicks there are in the rebound? Like from slow to fast / vice-versa?


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## gregers05 (Jan 30, 2013)

Uh, I'm not sure on that. Easy enough to count yourself. Just count how many clicks from where you are now to all the way to slow or fast and write that down so you remember where you were. Then just start and count all the way from slow to fast

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Arebee (Sep 13, 2012)

NEET said:


> Thanks, Does anyone happen to remember how many clicks there are in the rebound? Like from slow to fast / vice-versa?


I'm pretty sure it was 30.


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## NEET (Jun 8, 2015)

huckleberry hound said:


> It should be this one. Avid 20mm 160 to 180 Disc Brake Adapter | eBay
> . You need a 160 to 180 post mount adapter.


The adapter you link came w/ tiny O-Rings, Do you happen to know what it is use for or where Do I install it?


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## huckleberry hound (Feb 27, 2015)

I don't see any rubber o-rings in the picture. Are you talking about the CPS washers?









Here is the link for the setup guide from Sram/Avid . You may or may not need them depending on you actual caliper.

https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...000-000_rev_d_disc_brake_caliper_mounting.pdf

Can you post a picture of the o-rings?


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## NEET (Jun 8, 2015)

FML !:madmax::madman: I just found out my Rotor is 185mm. God damn :cryin:

Anyway, Could some of you guys check something for me? squeeze the front brake than try to move the bike forward & backward, does the Fork makes a little clunk sound? Make sure the wheels aren't rolling.

One more thing, Can the 15QR Tru-Axle be adjusted because I have 0 or very little friction at 90 degree w/ the lever.

Many Thanks


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

That sounds like it is more likely to be a headset issue/insufficiently tightened top cap/stem than a fork issue. But difficult to tell from a distance....

Use an allen key to loosen the lever after you have it tight. Remove it and reposition it where you want it. Re-bolt it.


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## MTBeing (Jan 11, 2012)

NEET said:


> FML !:madmax::madman: I just found out my Rotor is 185mm. God damn :cryin:
> 
> Anyway, Could some of you guys check something for me? squeeze the front brake than try to move the bike forward & backward, does the Fork makes a little clunk sound? Make sure the wheels aren't rolling.
> 
> ...


No clunk here and I have mine set at 120mm. As far as your rotor goes you *may* be able to spacer that out in a pinch but I'm not sure how the pads are going to line up with the rotor.


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## NEET (Jun 8, 2015)

Deleted.


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## MTBeing (Jan 11, 2012)

After several months of riding on a ’15 Slide RL2 I have to say I'm pretty impressed overall. I've ridden Rebas and Fox forks and this is a darn good fork. There's not much adjustment, just rebound and open/lockout but I like that. This fork also has the least stiction of any fork I've ever had and the stiffness (15mm t/a) is really good for a 32mm stancioned fork. It's a bit heavier than my Rebas but on par with a Fox 32 but it offers a really plush ride, akin to a Reba. XFusion touts that all componentry is metal and this is probably why it's slightly heavier than a Reba. Fwiw, this XFusion reminds me of the older Dual Motion Rebas with upper and lower independent air, although this fork has a single air port up top.

The fork lowers also have a slight 'spine' running up the front of them from top to bottom, which I presume imparts stiffness to the fork. I have yet to service the fork but it looks pretty straightforward from videos I've seen. The only critiques I have are the graphics, and a slight loss of pressure after inverting the fork overnight. The lowers are way too heavy in the graphics dept for my tastes as I prefer a slightly more minimalist look. I left my bike inverted overnight to see if the fork would feel any different the next day. My Rebas always felt a little more plush when I did this. Well, the XFusion lost about 15psi overnight so I'm keeping an eye on it. Possibly a seal issue.


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## huckleberry hound (Feb 27, 2015)

No need to invert overnight, I just invert it for about thirty seconds before I ride to make sure that the foam rings have plenty of oil in them. I can tell a difference in just doing this. 

I too like the set and forget nature of this fork and have been extremely pleased with mine.


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## MTBeing (Jan 11, 2012)

huckleberry hound said:


> No need to invert overnight, I just invert it for about thirty seconds before I ride to make sure that the foam rings have plenty of oil in them. I can tell a difference in just doing this.
> 
> I too like the set and forget nature of this fork and have been extremely pleased with mine.


Thanks for the advice. I'll try this tomorrow.

update: Yep, works good!


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## NEET (Jun 8, 2015)

Any news on the damper upgrade for the Slide 29?


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Old thread bump for advice.
I bought a very gently used 2012 Slide and just installed it. Measuring from the middle of the TA to the crown race I get 525mm. According to everything I've read, this means it's set to 120mm, which is what the seller tells me. 
With no air in the fork, I can only compress the ziptie 98mm up the leg, leaving about 35-37mm of exposed upper stanchion. It's a pretty solid 'bottom-out'. 
I suspect too much oil in the damper, based on other threads here. 
Does that sound right? Or is there something else I should try before I delve into this fork. 

FWIW, the fork is great and works well and the 100-ish mm of travel I do get is really really nice.


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## MTBeing (Jan 11, 2012)

ARandomBiker said:


> Old thread bump for advice.
> I bought a very gently used 2012 Slide and just installed it. Measuring from the middle of the TA to the crown race I get 525mm. According to everything I've read, this means it's set to 120mm, which is what the seller tells me.
> With no air in the fork, I can only compress the ziptie 98mm up the leg, leaving about 35-37mm of exposed upper stanchion. It's a pretty solid 'bottom-out'.
> I suspect too much oil in the damper, based on other threads here.
> ...


That's a weird thing about X Fusion forks. Exposed stancion is not travel. Subtract an inch. My experience.

Sent from my N9515 using Tapatalk


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

ARandomBiker said:


> Old thread bump for advice.
> I bought a very gently used 2012 Slide and just installed it. Measuring from the middle of the TA to the crown race I get 525mm. According to everything I've read, this means it's set to 120mm, which is what the seller tells me.
> With no air in the fork, I can only compress the ziptie 98mm up the leg, leaving about 35-37mm of exposed upper stanchion. It's a pretty solid 'bottom-out'.
> I suspect too much oil in the damper, based on other threads here.
> ...


Either too much oil in the damper or too much in the lowers. I'd start by pulling the lower bolts and draining the legs. Actually, given that it's used, I'd just pull the lowers and service it while checking the damper rod actuation while it's apart.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

OK, I dropped the lowers.
I'll skip all the measurements and 'thinking' I did, but am pretty sure that the damper is overfilled. 
Unfortunately, I can't seem to get the cap off.
My single attempt to open the cap without the 6-point ground-flat socket was dangerously close to damaging the hex flats. I called some shops, but no one has a socket that big. Gonna have to think about this one for a while.

Thanks everyone for the advice!


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

ARandomBiker said:


> OK, I dropped the lowers.
> I'll skip all the measurements and 'thinking' I did, but am pretty sure that the damper is overfilled.
> Unfortunately, I can't seem to get the cap off.
> My single attempt to open the cap without the 6-point ground-flat socket was dangerously close to damaging the hex flats. I called some shops, but no one has a socket that big. Gonna have to think about this one for a while.
> ...


If you have the means to grind a socket flat, you should be able to buy one at any Sears/Home Depot/Lowes/auto parts store.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

I got the oil thing sorted out. Have full stroke on the damper side.

One thing I apparently overlooked was this:







Why is this here? Obviously its a bottom-out bumper, but it limits me to about 112mm travel. 
Pressurizing the air spring with no lowers, I measured from the upper baseplate to the upper rim of the bumper. It's definitely stopping me from getting the full 120. If I literally just cut it off, I'd have like 130ish travel, and I'd bottom out on the plastic shim under the cone bumper, so that's probably not a great idea.

Advice??
"just leave it" is not the answer I'm satisfied with just yet.


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## MTBeing (Jan 11, 2012)

My lockout on my '15 Slide RL2 29 went south a couple days ago. Tried to call X-Fusion Service today but I suspect they're all at Interbike right now. Just got a voicemail message no matter who I tried to connect to.


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## jvaliensi (Feb 6, 2011)

Is this fork a POS? I bought one because I needed 80mm, 1-1/8 straight steerer and 15mm x100mm axle. There are not many choices. It came with 120mm travel so I went to reset it to 80mm. 1st - they completely redesign the insides, the videos are not up to date anymore. I bought the special tool and it don't fit with the redesign. 

When I went to bleed out the air, it sprayed pink oil foam all over the place, yuk.

Anyways I snapped off the end of the damper rod. I wasn't even using much force (less than 5nm) You cannot get a replacement rod, you need to buy the entire damper assembly.
So I sent it to the factory repair shop to get it fixed. I'm not saving much money or headache with this fork.

Why the fxxk would they make the rod out of butter-grade aluminum??? - plain old steel would be far better and cheaper. What good is a light fork when its on a UPS truck???

I waited weeks for Niagara Cycles to ship it, now I'm waiting weeks for the repair. NC has good prices but slow service.

I wish Fox supplied the fork with the configuration I need. They have all the pieces but don't get them assembled that way. I guess I could buy two Fox forks and make one out of the pair  I've taken Fox forks apart they are made with solid materials.

Or I could have got a MPR Slope exactly the way I needed (I found them after I order the X-Fusion)


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## gregers05 (Jan 30, 2013)

jvaliensi said:


> Is this fork a POS? I bought one because I needed 80mm, 1-1/8 straight steerer and 15mm x100mm axle. There are not many choices. It came with 120mm travel so I went to reset it to 80mm. 1st - they completely redesign the insides, the videos are not up to date anymore. I bought the special tool and it don't fit with the redesign.
> 
> When I went to bleed out the air, it sprayed pink oil foam all over the place, yuk.
> 
> ...


I love mine. I have had it for over 4 years and no issues. I havent even rebuilt it and have only had to add air to it once which was a few weeks ago for the first time. Definitely due for a rebuild though.


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## huckleberry hound (Feb 27, 2015)

I love mine too! I changed mine from 100 to 120mm travel before I installed it. Yes the videos on X-Fusion's site are actually for a different fork so the internals are different. It is still very easy to change the travel. I posted here X-Fusion Slide RL2 - Page 3- Mtbr.com that the damper tool doesn't fit. I didn't need it and I have had this fork apart three times.
I will never (never say never) buy anything from Niagara Cycle again. The only time that I ever bought anything from them it took forever and a Sunday to get it. I love dealing with X-Fusion directly though. I have had nothing but great service from them.


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