# Anybody else miter tubes like this?



## Smokebikes (Feb 2, 2008)

Just wondering if this is a way that other folks may be mitering tubes........recipricating drum sander. This method seems much more forgiving as oposed to a cutter like a "joint jigger" were you have to have the thing set-up spot on before cutting.....I was also wondering if sanding a miter down is "kinder" to the steel than cutting.......any constructive thoughts or experiences?


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Smokebikes said:


> Just wondering if this is a way that other folks may be mitering tubes........recipricating drum sander. This method seems much more forgiving as oposed to a cutter like a "joint jigger" were you have to have the thing set-up spot on before cutting.....I was also wondering if sanding a miter down is "kinder" to the steel than cutting.......any constructive thoughts or experiences?


It will heat up the tube more. Probably not enough to change its properties but enough to change the color.


----------



## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

No. It works, but it really screws up a fancy heat treat tube.


----------



## EnginCycles (Dec 21, 2006)

this is the best but is also not cheap. people who use abrasives say it is the best thing ever. i personally have a horizontal mill dedicated to main tube and another for seat stay and chain stay.









-Drew


----------



## 1gear (Jan 12, 2005)

I use a mill, but I've always thought this was a good looking machine. It looks like something that could be made without too much trouble.

As long as you don't get overly aggressive and try going too fast I don't see why it would harm the tubes. Just take your time and keep the temps under control. Roughing the miter with some snips or something might make things easier/faster too.


----------



## BeatAFool (Jan 14, 2008)

> a horizontal mill dedicated to main tube and another for seat stay and chain stay.


That's Baller!!!


----------



## Clockwork Bikes (Jun 17, 2006)

*Abrasive Miterer*

I got this guy third hand and really like it. It's made of angle iron and stuff from Enco.

www.clockworkbikes.com/shop.html

-Joel


----------



## mobile chernobyl (Apr 12, 2006)

1gear said:


> I use a mill, but I've always thought this was a good looking machine. It looks like something that could be made without too much trouble.


I too think thats a novel idea, but could the design perhaps be changed so that the mitering roller is the non driven roller? And then the motor/driven roller would pivot like a cam for tightening. Securing the non driven roller in this manor would be easier/cheaper i would think.

Thanks for posting that, it has inspired me now haha. considering my former "profession" was finish carpentry, I'm very familiar with the oscillating, hand held belt, wide belt, and many other sanding apparatus's and could get my hand on spare parts pretty easily. What sanding belt do you think they commonly use for this? I'm more familar with the wood sanding belts, not sure if the paper like structure could hold up to the heat/more localized pressure of metal working.


----------



## popoff (Dec 4, 2007)

a belt grinder type of setup would run cooler than a drum sander. belts last way longer than a drum as well. the knifemaking crowd uses belt grinders quite a bit. this guy makes a really nice setup that can also use smaller diameter idlers for notching tubing, but you would have to come up with a fixture to align/hold the tube. also add a motor.

http://www.cootebeltgrinder.com/

it would get your tubing mighty warm, but i'm not sure thats a problem if you tig weld it. if you are using air hardening tube, you'd have to check with the air hardening tube mfg's to see if their tubes can deal with two heating cycles (or if this would even count as a separate heating cycle). if you are using heat treated chomoly, i don't think your heat treatment will be fouled any more than from welding or fillet brazing. the sanding temperature wouldn't be anywhere near welding temps or fillet brazing temps. you can estimate the temperature by looking at what color you turned the steel right at the edge of the miter. if your steel is glowing, back off on your cutting rate.

http://www.muggyweld.com/color.html

you'll also need to sand off that blueing to clean steel before welding or brazing. it will make for a much cleaner joint.

Mike



Smokebikes said:


> Just wondering if this is a way that other folks may be mitering tubes........recipricating drum sander. This method seems much more forgiving as oposed to a cutter like a "joint jigger" were you have to have the thing set-up spot on before cutting.....I was also wondering if sanding a miter down is "kinder" to the steel than cutting.......any constructive thoughts or experiences?


----------

