# Timberjack 27.5+ SINGLESPEED!!!!



## Sage of the Sage (Nov 10, 2011)

Just waiting on the cog and spacers.

XL Timberjack, Chromag saddle and grips, Teravail Coronado 27.5x3" tires, and a surly spacer kit and 18t cog.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

diggin the color scheme. moar photos when it's done, please.


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## Sage of the Sage (Nov 10, 2011)

mack_turtle said:


> diggin the color scheme. moar photos when it's done, please.


Absolutely.

Still figuring out what else needs to be gold anodized, but the cream and brown definitely looks classy...


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

Nice! Been ogling the Ti version of that frame.


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## Sage of the Sage (Nov 10, 2011)

Installed the drivetrain today, and used a KMC TI-gold chain... makes everything pop! 
Took a quick test ride before work, and oh my goodness is this gonna be a fun bike...


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

anyone running a Timberjack SS with reduction plates? Salsa told me you have to use a boost hub if you want to ride is SS.

"we actually do not recommend a singlespeed set up with a 142 or 135 hub and the boost reduction plates. doing so means the small wheel position screws in the back of the dropouts don't line up with dropout like they should. if you do a singlespeed set up, you will need to either tension the chain manually or use a 148mm rear hub."

so that takes another frame off my list. I don't want to spend several hundred bucks on top of a new frame so I can needlessly replace my Hadley hub.


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## Sage of the Sage (Nov 10, 2011)

mack_turtle said:


> anyone running a Timberjack SS with reduction plates? Salsa told me you have to use a boost hub if you want to ride is SS.
> 
> "we actually do not recommend a singlespeed set up with a 142 or 135 hub and the boost reduction plates. doing so means the small wheel position screws in the back of the dropouts don't line up with dropout like they should. if you do a singlespeed set up, you will need to either tension the chain manually or use a 148mm rear hub."
> 
> so that takes another frame off my list. I don't want to spend several hundred bucks on top of a new frame so I can needlessly replace my Hadley hub.


I am running the stock QR hub on mine, it came with the QR plates on it. I believe it's 142mm...


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Sage of the Sage said:


> I am running the stock QR hub on mine, it came with the QR plates on it. I believe it's 142mm...


interesting. can you tell what they are talking about there? I'll need to find some close-up photos of the dropouts, unless you can supply them.


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## Sage of the Sage (Nov 10, 2011)

mack_turtle said:


> interesting. can you tell what they are talking about there? I'll need to find some close-up photos of the dropouts, unless you can supply them.


I think they are talking about the small Allen screws seen in the photos. These are from my Timberjack, which I converted from a stock NX-1 build.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

so what is Salsa going on about? is that a 142x12 hub, a 148x12 boost hub, or a 141x10 boost qr hub? acording to Salsa, the NX1 build came with a 141x10 qr, which is basically a boost hub. I'd really like to know because I was thinking about buying a frameset, but if it means I have to also replace my Hadley hub, i will cross that one off my list.

anyone running a Timberjack singlespeed with a 142x12 or 135x10 axle?


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## Sage of the Sage (Nov 10, 2011)

Mine’s a 141 boost QR hub. I still don’t see why you couldn’t run a 135 rear hub... the alternator dropouts are easy to use even without those little adjuster screws.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Yeah, I can probably do without the adjuster screws but they would give me peace of mind that the swinger won't slip. If they didn't put that kind of forethought into the frame, I might as well pass.

EDIT- I have read a few things that lead me to believe that the fixing bolts that hold a Salsa Alternator plate in position are sufficient without the adjuster screw. someone apparently rode across Uganda with a 135mm Roloff hub and plate reducers and it seems to have gone just fine for them.

Salsa Deadwood Rohloff - BIKEPACKING.com


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## Sage of the Sage (Nov 10, 2011)

All they are is a pusher screw. They don’t thread in or anything, and all the chain tension is held by the bolts through the frame. Still, peace of mind is important...


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## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

What gearing are you running? I was thinking about going single again, and for the hills around me I would run 32-20 or 34-21. Was running the latter on an El Mari for a few years, allowing me to avoid a half link. Using this calculator, I might have to push up to a 32-18, since 32-20 would be on the longer end and Salsa says max chainring size is 32t. http://eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.ph...etch=0.00&axleAdjust=vert&sortKey=Stay_length


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## Sage of the Sage (Nov 10, 2011)

BmoreKen said:


> What gearing are you running? I was thinking about going single again, and for the hills around me I would run 32-20 or 34-21. Was running the latter on an El Mari for a few years, allowing me to avoid a half link. Using this calculator, I might have to push up to a 32-18, since 32-20 would be on the longer end and Salsa says max chainring size is 32t. http://eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.ph...etch=0.00&axleAdjust=vert&sortKey=Stay_length


I'm running 30:18, which is excellent with the 3" tires. My 29er has 34:20 gearing, and the Salsa climbs a little better, with a bit more spin on the flats.


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## sloonz (Apr 15, 2012)

mack_turtle said:


> so what is Salsa going on about? is that a 142x12 hub, a 148x12 boost hub, or a 141x10 boost qr hub? acording to Salsa, the NX1 build came with a 141x10 qr, which is basically a boost hub. I'd really like to know because I was thinking about buying a frameset, but if it means I have to also replace my Hadley hub, i will cross that one off my list.
> 
> anyone running a Timberjack singlespeed with a 142x12 or 135x10 axle?


I have a Ti Timberjack and have been running it SS on a Hope SS 12x142 hub. I'm using the stock alternator dropouts that came with the frame. No issues. Maybe a slight chain misalignment but you can just move the position of the cog to get it aligned right.

This is my 3rd SS and It's hands down my most favorite.


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## yourrealdad (May 17, 2012)

I know I am reviving an old thread, but I am trying to find a new frame to match to my Hope SS hub. It is the bolt on variety at this point.

Will it play nice with the Alternator dropouts on the Timberjack?

Sloonz, which axle do you have on yours?

Thanks


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## maynard4130 (May 12, 2019)

Count me in. (27.5) 2.8 rear Ranger Tough, 3.0 front Trail Boss Light. 30x20. Most stock SLX except race face Chester 50mm stem, Funn Fatboy 780 bars, Surly cog & spacers.












[HR][/HR]


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## maynard4130 (May 12, 2019)

So, my TJ comes with Race face ride cinch boost crankset. Chainline is 51 mm or 57.5 (flipped) apparently. I want to use a Paul boost hub but the chainline is 55mm...so exactly in no man's land for the stock cranks. Is there anything I can do besides buy an entire new crankset? Do they make cinch chainrings with no offset? This would get me pretty close and could adjust 1mm with the BB spacer.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

maynard- there are Cinch chainrings with different amounts of offset. Can't think of specifics, but I have Aeffect cranks with 30, 32, and 34t rings and each one has slightly different offset amounts.

Does your bike have a spacer between the BB shell and the drive side cup? You could move that spacer to the other side of the BB. It could improve your chainline and the slight offset it would create in the pedals would likely be imperceptible.

Do not change the amount of spacing between the cup and the frame though. That has to remain the same for your BB to work correctly. Adding spacers will force the cranks to crush the bearings when torqued down correctly and using fewer spacers will allow the spindle to slide around.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Also, I recommend emailing Paul about that hub chainline. I recall asking them the same thing and they might have said something counter-intuitive about that hub.

Also ask RaceFace what they recommend to change the chainline on that crankset. You can probably buy a ring that is not designed for boost spacing and get the chainline you want.

Also keep in mind that an exact, straight chainline is nice, but getting it within 2-3 ?mm should work just fine.


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## maynard4130 (May 12, 2019)

Thanks for the info Mack. I actually emailed Race Face, Paul and Salsa about this. My last bike was a Karate Monkey with Paul hubs and White Industries Trials freehub. ZERO problem for 7 years. Bombproof and great engagement. I tried the Timberjack but hated gears so I am wanting SS options now. I would use the old wheelsets but the Boost standard is what it is...reduction plated not recommended for SS. So now, it's either Paul/W.I. or Hope (steel freehub). Hadley would be the third option but I'm trying to keep it semi-budget. I already have the cog and spacers for a freehub, but have a fondness for the threaded SS setup. I know the chainline being a little off (few mm) is okay, but part of the magic of SS is always having perfect alignment. I am going to sell my blinged out Karate Monkey for the wheelsets soon.....


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Industry Nine and Onyx have 148mm SS hubs too, but $$$. I wish Surly would make a budget 148mm freewheel hub!


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## maynard4130 (May 12, 2019)

I know! That's exactly what I want, but it's gnot gonna happen.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I am under the impression that Alternator dropouts with spacers can be used with a 142x12 hub. It is not optimal, but it can be made to work. I am certain I read in this thread or in the Salsa sub-forum that someone made it work. Double check that before you convince yourself you need a boost hub.


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## maynard4130 (May 12, 2019)

Yeah. It can work, but the set screws couldn't be used. They would actually be up against where the frame and reduction plates are mounted together. Race face emailed me back and pretty much told me exactly what you said Mack. There is a 2.5mm spacer on the driver side of the BB. If I move it to the other side, and then flip the chainring, I should have a chainline of 55mm. Definitely an option.


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## Pedlin' Slow (Sep 9, 2009)

I rode my Timberjack with spacer plates for nearly a year with absolutely no problems. It seemed pretty optimal to me  If you move your spacer ring on the BB you will screw up your Q factor; bad idea. It is on the drive side for a specific reason, it's not either/or.


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## Pedlin' Slow (Sep 9, 2009)

Buy some different width spacers and you can nail your chainline. 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm. I got my Timberjack within 1mm by purchasing a 1mm spacer.


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## maynard4130 (May 12, 2019)

Pedlin' Slow said:


> Buy some different width spacers and you can nail your chainline. 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm. I got my Timberjack within 1mm by purchasing a 1mm spacer.


I have different width cassette hub spacers. I'm talking specifically about a thread on freewheel with a non adjustable chain line.


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## grc77 (Feb 9, 2019)

*19 NX Eagle Build*

Thought I'd share out my TJ build on the thread. It's really a SS conversion with a few upgrades and a lot of bells and whistles for aesthetic updates&#8230;

TJ '19 NX Eagle
Tubeless setup conversion
Shimano SPD M540 Pedals
Deity Copperhead Stem
Deity Skywire Carbon Handlebar
Wolftooth Spacers
ODI Rogue Grips
Fetenice Fender (front only)
KustomCaps Headcap/Bolt
Race Face Crank Boots
Salsa Liplock
Wolftooth 18t Cog
Surly Spacer Kit
Updated Rockshox Fork Stickers
KMC Gold Chain
Misc Bling - Presta Valves, Valve Collars, Cage Bolts, Oompa Loompa stickers (couldn't think of much else that was orange and green to tie in as a theme)

I absolutely love riding this bike. I got a Pony Rustler in '18 and thought it might be fun to get a hardtail and play around with the SS setup. Now I just ride this full time.

I toyed with the idea of bar ends, but won't forgive myself that first time I bite it when the catch on a branch. What I did was lower the stem quite a bit and that gives me leverage to pull on the handlebars on climbs (not doing anything too steep in Maryland).

The one thing that's been a challenge is the alternator setup. I had a shop do the first setup and about 10 rides in the lower alternator bolt stripped out. Put a few posts on this thread and got some good ideas, seems to be ironed out now.

I had toyed with the idea of moving all components over to the Ti frame with a new fork and then working this setup backwards to be a 29er with original parts. But now, pretty close to doing that with a SC Chameleon frame for half the price.

~grc


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## maynard4130 (May 12, 2019)

Just adding a photo. I put the SS specific alternator plate on the TJ. Exact same as the stock plate except no derailleur hanger.


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