# NS Suburban bike check + cool riding shot



## DJskeet (Oct 19, 2007)

I've had it for a while now, rides amazing.









*Specs:*
Frame: NS suburban (Green)
Fork: Fox 32 F100 and DMR Trailblade 2 (switch between the two)
Wheels: Halo SAS (black)
Front Tire: Kenda Small Block 8 1.9
Rear Tire: Maxlight 310 1.9
Seat: Federal Slim SL Pivotal (white) (drilled and gutted internals)
Seat Post: Poverty Alloy Pivotal w/ shim(cut/drilled)
Headset: Chris King 1 1/8 Headset (black)
Stem: Blk Mrkt Underboss
Bars: Answer Protaper 2" rise
Grips: Animal (black)w/ drilled bar ends
Brake: juicy 7 w/ hope braided steel hose (putting hose in later)
Chain: KMC K710SL hollow pin (silver) w/ superstar half link
Cranks: Profile race (white) w/ titanium axle
Sprocket: 26t Tree Bikes Splined drive (black) (26:12gear ratio)
Pedals: Odyssey plastic (black)
Single Speed: Gusset Double6 Conversion Kit 12t

*Problems* if anyone could help that would be great:
1) I cant seem to get the wheel slammed, even with the half link
2) The fork is topping out like crazy, not sure exactly what to do since I already filled it with a lot of air and turned off the rebound. I hope I didnt dammage it already.
3) The Gusset SS conversion it is GAY, the chain keeps scratching the side.

*Picture*
Just a 180 pivot thing on a dirt bank...









Comments??


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## SRacer (Sep 5, 2007)

if your fork is the RLC, try moving the low speed compression clockwise, moving the lockout lever towards the back end of the bike, or the lockout threshold until you can fix it, i run the 08 on my xc, once you set it up, its amazing, if none of those work, i believe BIKE magazine has the default settings, ill try to dig it up and let you know


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## JGill (May 2, 2008)

I would only run the F100 on an xc bike...


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## SRacer (Sep 5, 2007)

JGill said:


> I would only run the F100 on an xc bike...


true, theyre stiff, but i can feel it flexing under heavy braking and its a QR


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## DJskeet (Oct 19, 2007)

SRacer said:


> if your fork is the RLC, try moving the low speed compression clockwise, moving the lockout lever towards the back end of the bike, or the lockout threshold until you can fix it, i run the 08 on my xc, once you set it up, its amazing, if none of those work, i believe BIKE magazine has the default settings, ill try to dig it up and let you know


ya its the 2008 RLC one, Ive been messing around with the adjustments and stuff but nothing seems to stop it from topping out.

And just like 30 min ago i was braking down a hill and the brake all the sudden started getting a ton of friction with the pads even when i wasnt putting any pressure on the lever at all. WTF? How can i fix this too?


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## SRacer (Sep 5, 2007)

DJskeet said:


> ya its the 2008 RLC one, Ive been messing around with the adjustments and stuff but nothing seems to stop it from topping out.
> 
> And just like 30 min ago i was braking down a hill and the brake all the sudden started getting a ton of friction with the pads even when i wasnt putting any pressure on the lever at all. WTF? How can i fix this too?


that sounds like its a brake problem, im not sure how to adjust hydros, so i guess search that. how much pressure do you have in the fork and how much do you weigh?

EDIT- heres Fox's air pressure chart

< 125 lbs. 45 psi
125 - 135 lbs. 50 psi
135 - 145 lbs. 55 psi
145 - 155 lbs. 65 psi
155 - 170 lbs. 75 psi
170 - 185 lbs. 85 psi
185 - 200 lbs. 95 psi
200 - 215 lbs. 105 psi
215 - 230 lbs 115 psi
230 - 250 lbs. 125 psi


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## JGill (May 2, 2008)

I'd make a sacrifice and add aonther pound and lower a Vanilla to 100mm and call it good. I wish there were more options for a QR fork. I realized they aren't as lateraly stiff but choice is good.


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## DJskeet (Oct 19, 2007)

Oh wow I'm 155 and have at like 250psi... Now I lowered it 75psi but I cant see how it is because I put the rigid back on. I'll check back later.

But since I bought the fork for cheap at $300, I might be able to sell it for like 350 -400 and then get a pike or something... light and flush...
If it works out though i do want to lower it to 80mm.


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## pro (Oct 7, 2007)

are you on TCU?


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## DJskeet (Oct 19, 2007)

pro said:


> are you on TCU?


Ya Savage_Animal :thumbsup:


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## aeffertz91 (Aug 20, 2007)

Does it have vertical drop-outs?
If so, you will need some sort of tensioner in order to get the wheel slammed completely without tons of chain slack.
I would go with a BB chain tensioner to keep it looking simple.


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## DJskeet (Oct 19, 2007)

aeffertz91 said:


> Does it have vertical drop-outs?
> .


No.


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## spazzy (Aug 15, 2004)

sick build im liking it, hows the 26/12 ratio? i have a 34/14 right now and i dont mind it a bit


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

The Gusset works fine. I don't like that you only have 2 positions for the chainline adjustment. With a 12t, most spacers will rub. You're probably better off finding the really skinny cassette/BB spacers. Or maybe finding the plastic bottom bracket spacers. They'll eventually rub/wear in.

Certain gear ratios won't let you slam it with certain chainstay lengths.

Are you topping out or bottoming out? Topping out is when the fork makes a clunk when it rebounds. If it's topping out, you want to try less pressure and more rebound. Bottoming is when it clunks when you run out of travel. You may want to check the oil heights.


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## DJskeet (Oct 19, 2007)

XSL_WiLL said:


> The Gusset works fine. I don't like that you only have 2 positions for the chainline adjustment. With a 12t, most spacers will rub. You're probably better off finding the really skinny cassette/BB spacers. Or maybe finding the plastic bottom bracket spacers. They'll eventually rub/wear in.
> 
> Certain gear ratios won't let you slam it with certain chainstay lengths.
> 
> Are you topping out or bottoming out? Topping out is when the fork makes a clunk when it rebounds. If it's topping out, you want to try less pressure and more rebound. Bottoming is when it clunks when you run out of travel. You may want to check the oil heights.


Thanks Will, for the chain line it is possible to arrange spacers on the spindle since the sproket is spline drive and its not attached to the crank at all, but I think its ok. Theres just a ton of rubbing and grinding going on between the chain and Gusset spacers..

Back in the fork it was topping out, like there was a noise when I pulled up on the fork. but I'm not sure if its still doing it anymore since I let a lot of air out and I dont care for putting it back on the bike at this moment.


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## DJskeet (Oct 19, 2007)

spazzy said:


> sick build im liking it, hows the 26/12 ratio? i have a 34/14 right now and i dont mind it a bit


I love it!


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## BikeSATORI (Mar 20, 2004)

Slick build, that is a nice bike. wow, a lot nicer than what I seem to remember you riding.

310 is interesting, makes me cringe thinking about it, but I've been seeing those on quite a few bikes lately...


you should try to trade that F100 QR in on one of those 15qr forks... you'd need a new hub, but that's what I've been looking into just a bit lately. Not a bad fork though as it is (I've got an '08 32talas), and going to a slammed Vanilla won't give you much improvement. Hard to get those stiff enough for jump/street duty, finding springs, and they have same chassis as F100, so no gain in stiffness.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

DJskeet said:


> Thanks Will, for the chain line it is possible to arrange spacers on the spindle since the sproket is spline drive and its not attached to the crank at all, but I think its ok. Theres just a ton of rubbing and grinding going on between the chain and Gusset spacers..
> 
> Back in the fork it was topping out, like there was a noise when I pulled up on the fork. but I'm not sure if its still doing it anymore since I let a lot of air out and I dont care for putting it back on the bike at this moment.


I meant that the Gusset kit is only 2 spacers that are slightly different. You only have two configurations to adjust chainline.

As I said, you can try the plastic BB spacers, like the Shimano ones. Or you can find the real thin aluminum ones. Using 1mm or 2.5mm spacers gives you much more chainline adjustment. Since they're not tapered, you may not have rubbing, or less rubbing.


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## crazylax42 (Jan 17, 2007)

pretty sure hans rey uses a F100 on his trials bike, but yeah, a 15qr would be a lot better. For a solid dependable 15qr hub, pick up a Shimano SLX. they should be $45-60.

also, is it an '08 frame? their site shows horiz. dropouts, and a d.hanger and axle positioners are supposed to be included with every frame. 

Nice bike! I'm trying to get a white NS Society here soon.


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## BikeSATORI (Mar 20, 2004)

Yeah, that Gusset kit is pretty limited. Seems it was meant more for larger cogs anyway, with the taper...

Check out one of those Quamen singlespeed cogs. No spacers, uses grub set screws to place anywhere on cassette body. Good stuff. Nothing to rub either.

Rennen has some nice threaded spacers too, but may not clear a 12t cog and fat chain. I run one with a 16 on one my bikes and it's a very nice piece.


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## DJskeet (Oct 19, 2007)

BikeSATORI - the tires working out good so far, just have to watch the braking. If i did decide to get a new fork it would probly go for a slightly stronger pike or Manitou but still light. idk yet. but thanks for the imput!

XSL_Will - your right the kit doesnt offer much as far as adjustability, I might just as well try and find some old cassette spacers. But I kinda want to look into a new SS hub

crazylaz42 - yes this is the 08 frame, it has horiz drops and the axle positioners but the ones that come with the frame dont stay at all. i had about half an inch of slippage in the first ride even with the bolts pretty tight.


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## The Agency (Jun 28, 2005)

Very nice! I like the green. Good riding photo too.


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