# Original/Real Yinding YD 2xU2 found



## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

After the successful creation of the customized SolarStorm X3 XM-L2 and the SolarStorm XT40 XM-L2, I thought I would ask GearBest about the Yinding. So after explaining the story of the Yinding quality disintegration, I asked Dora if she could find the original Yinding. To my surprise, thinking it was gone, she found it. According to her she contacted the Yinding factory and they said the quality hadn't changed. If she is correct then the other sellers are not selling the real light.

When the sample came, Dora and I confirmed all the specs I gave her: dimpled lens, correct mount, correct click together connectors, XML U2 emitters and build quality. She is sending me the light so I can check its quality and has sent pictures of the sample to confirm its correctness. So far it looks great, I have a second gen Yinding and can't wait to finally get an original. 

























































I had previously discussed that people sometimes prefer to buy the light alone, so she decided to sell it in two options: Lighthead only and Complete Kit. I will post the links and hopefully we can get a coupon code to make a bit cheaper.


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## eTrex_FSR (Dec 18, 2009)

*AW: Original/Real Yinding YD 2xU2 found*

So far I only see this offering on gearbest. Is it the same model you are talking about, as specs seam to be different? 
http://m.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_124468.html


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM-L2 2 LEDs 4-Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp (4 x 18650 Battery Pack)-36.32 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com is correct with the wrong emitters listed. Dora is aware of the mistake and will change it. I didn't list the link yet because it is newly listed, has errors and the Lighthead option isn't posted yet. I also asked about a coupon code and was waiting to hear back.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Nice work!

I might have to jump on this, even though I just ordered a gearbest solarstorm x3. I always wanted the light head only option, but I think the odds of getting a fake are increased. 

I think one of the things that changed for the worse was that the newer/fake models had worse water resistance. That would be one thing to check once you get the light. 

Also tell her they need to fix the tracking number issue. This was discussed in a another thread, but i got a bum Netherlands post number that is untrackable. Hopefully my X3 shows up.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Definite list everything you want tested and anything I miss. Can you send me a link to the water problem? I see the gasket around the lenses and one the first things I confirmed, was the Magicshine type connectors since my second gen came with the cheap non waterproof connector. FastTech cheated me on my Yinding and I want to confirm these first.

Did you try to track your package using 17track.net? That was the best option for my last two PostNL packages. Keep in mind it takes a few days to a week before PostNL updates the number, so they don't show the number existing nor do they show any info until it's at their sort facility in the Netherlands. I know that was a pain for me. Did you contact them about it?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

varider said:


> Nice work!
> 
> I might have to jump on this, even though I just ordered a gearbest solarstorm x3. I always wanted the light head only option, but I think the odds of getting a fake are increased.
> 
> ...


Just found this out a couple hours ago; Lightmalls is selling the X3 with Cree XP-L's. Not sure if this is going to be better than XM-L2's. Output for both emitters are very close in comparison. Still, with XP-L there might be a different beam pattern. Whether this will increase the usefulness of the beam pattern is anyone's guess.

I just ordered a torch with an XP-L emitter so if I like what I see I might be tempted to buy a lamp with the newer emitter.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> Just found this out a couple hours ago; Lightmalls is selling the X3 with Cree XP-L's. Not sure if this is going to be better than XM-L2's. Output for both emitters are very close in comparison. Still, with XP-L there might be a different beam pattern. Whether this will increase the usefulness of the beam pattern is anyone's guess.
> 
> I just ordered a torch with an XP-L emitter so if I like what I see I might be tempted to buy a lamp with the newer emitter.


I notice the pictures on the listing show the X3 with Phillips head screws on the front and no branding, so definitely a clone. The first photo also shows the emmiters aren't even close to centered. With poor build quality, I wonder what driver they used.


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## C.M.S (Aug 28, 2009)

How much did the original yinding's cost ? Compared to the real Duo @ 115$ for the light head .


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

The other sellers are charging $45-52 for the Yinding. I payed/was robbed $48 for my supposed to be original Yinding from FastTech with all its cheap parts.

GearBest is listing the set for $37, so the light head should be less. I'm also waiting to see if there's a coupon code.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

GJHS said:


> Definite list everything you want tested and anything I miss. Can you send me a link to the water problem? I see the gasket around the lenses and one the first things I confirmed, was the Magicshine type connectors since my second gen came with the cheap non waterproof connector. FastTech cheated me on my Yinding and I want to confirm these first.
> 
> Did you try to track your package using 17track.net? That was the best option for my last two PostNL packages. Keep in mind it takes a few days to a week before PostNL updates the number, so they don't show the number existing nor do they show any info until it's at their sort facility in the Netherlands. I know that was a pain for me. Did you contact them about it?


I think the gasket was missing on the bad version. It's been long time since I've been on that thread, so I'm working from working from my rather poor memory. Since you have bum version, then just do a quick comparison of the two. The big thing is this "version" is as bright as the original, because that was a pretty impressive light.

Yes I have been using 17track.net website for tracking. I wasn't aware that I took a few days for the Netherlands post numbers to show up. Maybe that's the problem, even though it's been a few days. I'll just give it a few more days. My last few packages have been from lightmall with the more expensive shipping ($4 versus $2), and the tracking on those has been excellent. Those were all coming out of Hong Kong.



Cat-man-do said:


> Just found this out a couple hours ago; Lightmalls is selling the X3 with Cree XP-L's. Not sure if this is going to be better than XM-L2's. Output for both emitters are very close in comparison. Still, with XP-L there might be a different beam pattern. Whether this will increase the usefulness of the beam pattern is anyone's guess.
> 
> I just ordered a torch with an XP-L emitter so if I like what I see I might be tempted to buy a lamp with the newer emitter.


Interesting. It's probably some kind of clone manufacturer. I know you have had good luck with those, but I just got burned a few months ago with an under-driven Solarstorm X3.

So is that emitter the next big thing?


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## eTrex_FSR (Dec 18, 2009)

*AW: Original/Real Yinding YD 2xU2 found*



GJHS said:


> Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM-L2 2 LEDs 4-Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp (4 x 18650 Battery Pack)-36.32 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com is correct with the wrong emitters listed. Dora is aware of the mistake and will change it. I didn't list the link yet because it is newly listed, has errors and the Lighthead option isn't posted yet. I also asked about a coupon code and was waiting to hear back.


Does this version have a seal between front bezel and the lenses? Can not see this on the pictures.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ya it's hard to tell 100%














With all the rest accurate, it would seem the gasket would be there


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I love my "original" Yinding...great light! Any chance you can get the color spec on the LEDs on these from gearbest?

Edit. Looks to be correct to me; that gasket for the lenses is clear and hard to see...need to pop them out and check. Also, this is listed as having XML U2 LEDs; the one I have has the XM-L2 3B LEDs.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Looks like better waterproofing than the clones.
Does this one have the ability to program the modes via 10 steps of brightness like some of the clones do?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

According to Dora this straight from the Yinding factory so the original specs, which would be a three step switch, I believe.

TiGeo, I know there was a seller who upgraded the emitters to XM-L2. I can ask to upgrade though we may have to group buy. My second gen Yinding with XML is crazy bright out of the box.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Bah Humbug. I'm really liking the programmable one, once I figured how to use it.
If they could do a neutral white XML-2 with 10-step programming and the original waterproofing they'd really have something here. 

I suppose that's what the Gemini Duo is.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

^^^precisely. Remember...the Duo lighthead is only $115 from Jim at Action-led-lights.com. It's a great unit and my Yinding is only used as a backup now and on my road bike.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

TiGeo said:


> I love my "original" Yinding...great light! Any chance you can get the color spec on the LEDs on these from gearbest?
> 
> Edit. Looks to be correct to me; that gasket for the lenses is clear and hard to see...need to pop them out and check. Also, this is listed as having XML U2 LEDs; the one I have has the XM-L2 3B LEDs.


Do you prefer it over Solarstorm X2's?


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I prefer it (assume you mean the Yiniding) over my SSX2 for bar use as it has more of a broad pattern where the SSX2 has a more spot pattern. A buddy I ride with who uses the SSX2 on the bar and helmet was recently saying it was a bit spotty for the bar application.


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## C.M.S (Aug 28, 2009)

The SSX2 on the bar is WAY to spotty for my liking , not a bad helmet light though .
The Duo on the other hand makes for a great bar light even though poeple talk about it as a helmet light .


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

In keeping with the subject of the last 3-4 posts; Yeah, the SSX2 is a bit spotty for the bars BUT works pretty good on the bars if you use it on a road bike. That said it is still a wider beam pattern than typical one emitter lamps.

I think what makes all the Duo Clones nice is that they all use optics. If you want more or less spot you can buy replaceable optics to change the beam pattern. Out of the box I would think the Duo clones would still have a wider/smoother beam pattern ( vs the SSX2 ), making them a good choice for bar use.

Not that I'm dissing the find of the original type Yinding ( with XM-L U2 ) but I'd rather have one with XM-L2 simple because it is more efficient.

For what's it's worth I've ordered one of the KD2 Duo clones to play around with over the holidays ( with XM-L2 U2 and 10-level sub mode ) thinking it might be more like the original Duo. At least when I get mine I'll get an idea of the actual beam pattern vs. the SSX2. Not to mention I'll be able to compare the KD2 with the Gloworm X2 ( v3 ) which should be an interesting comparison.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM-L2 2 LEDs 4-Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp (4 x 18650 Battery Pack)-36.32 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com is correct with the wrong emitters listed. Dora is aware of the mistake and will change it. I didn't list the link yet because it is newly listed, has errors and the Lighthead option isn't posted yet. I also asked about a coupon code and was waiting to hear back.


It is a little bit confusing that the product headline indicates that batteries are included but in the description it says that batteries are not included.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Cat-man-do said:


> In keeping with the subject of the last 3-4 posts; Yeah, the SSX2 is a bit spotty for the bars BUT works pretty good on the bars if you use it on a road bike. That said it is still a wider beam pattern than typical one emitter lamps.
> 
> I think what makes all the Duo Clones nice is that they all use optics. If you want more or less spot you can buy replaceable optics to change the beam pattern. Out of the box I would think the Duo clones would still have a wider/smoother beam pattern ( vs the SSX2 ), making them a good choice for bar use.
> 
> ...


Agree; on a road bike spot isn't terrible. In fact, when I had my 808s I used the one with the standard lens (not the wide angle) for my road bike as the wide angle didn't work so well in terms of riding past your light if you know what I mean. I have never used the SSX2 on the road bike..I guess why bother when I have the Duo or the Yinding. The Yinding is my primary road light now and I really like it.

The Duo/Yinding DOES have a better pattern and is v. smooth due to the optics. I have a set of 40s I got from LEDDNA that I played with and I actually like the stock ones better. Its a great bar light..trust me..I have quite a bit of miles on it. I used my nicer Duo/Xera for the last endurance race (18 hours) I did but loaned my Yinding to a buddy who had older 808s and he loved it on the bar. The battery my Yinding came with is still going strong..used it for nearly 2.5 hours a few weeks ago...mainly on high...no issues. LED switch was red at about 2 hours.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I spoke with Dora last night and she said the factory can make them with XM-L2, which to me, would make this light amazing. The excitement over finding the "original" is because it was one of the few Chinese lights that is still well made, with proper pills, thermal paste, waterproofing, solid mount, good connectors and customizeable with different optics. I have a few lights and this one is my favorite. This thing is tiny and puts out massive amounts of light. 

With that said, I'm going to suggest that everyone waits to buys this light for now. Wait until I can confirm everything, up the specs with XM-L2 and see if I can get a coupon code to get the price down a bit. GearBest has two listings on their website, one with battery and one with just the light head. I mentioned to them last night that the listing was confusing. I think they are just starting to get ready to sell the light and still not ready 100%. That's why I didn't post links yet.

Is there someone who doesn't want the upgrade to XM-L2 U2? Maybe try for XP-L? :thumbsup:


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I would settle with XM-L2 U2 3C bin. At least not to cool white, would prefer warmer tints. XP-L woudn't be some noticeably improvement, I think.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

That's why I wanted to get the Yinding in the first place, because it was supposedly a better bar light. Thanks for confirming this. By the time I got around it to they had already downgraded their quality (or the cloners started taking over) and it was still $50. 

I didn't realize that this was using xm-l's, I thought they had already moved on to XM-l2's. Xm-l2 have been out for a long time, I personally wouldn't buy an xm-l light now. 

Original quality Yinding with the newer XM-L2 is almost a must buy. Neutral white preferably.


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## siata94 (Jan 27, 2013)

thanks for the legwork GJHS. I may be interested in one as well. I originally wanted to get one based on the good reviews but by the time I got over my procrastination the original was no more. So I went a different route in the meantime, using 1x18650 flashlights instead.

But would def like to try one to compare w/ my flashlights. Would prefer a 2-cell battery instead of 4 though but that's not likely to happen. Not a weight weenie but my camelbak feels like it's already 20 lbs so not motivated to add anymore weight. I carry spare batteries so rather not carry 4 additional cells.

I'm neutral on the neutral white tint though. Where I typically ride the dirt is pretty reddish so w/ a natural tint it seems overly red. A cool white tint seems brighter and doesn't appear as red. From the pic, the neutral XM-L2 T6 3B on the right seems more natural but w/ the naked eyes, the cool white U2 1A on the left seems more pleasing and easier on the eyes to me. Maybe it's the phone pic that's not showing it well but to me, the 3B seemed incandescent.

XM-L2 is def a must


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

My Yinding has the XM-L2 T6 3B LEDs...its a nice tint but looks a bit odd when you run a whiter helmet light.


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## siata94 (Jan 27, 2013)

it seems most brand name lights (not clones) are cool white? That's all I've seen from other riders.

Correction, the tint was XM-L2 T6 3C (not 3B).


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yes but this is beacuse cool white leds are cheaper and almost all chinese lights are using those. Neutral one would be much better for your eyes, color rendering and for 3D perception. It just apears less bright because eyes doesn't accept all wavelengths equaly among quite few other things involved (reflection, absorbtion, color of the surface, amount of phosphor on the led, etc....), much more than you would think.


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

I would jump on a light only if this were available. This is what I had mentioned in a previous thread that if a company just put together the right build that we were all after, they would sell a ton of these. Sounds like GearBest is getting smart.

Just got my XT40 yesterday and went for a ride last night. GREAT light. I was thinking what it would be like to have 2 on the bars split into 1 bigger battery pack. 

I have a Yinding clone with the 10 step driver from Lightmalls. Good light so far, but could use it as a back up or give it to a friend for a good upgrade.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

My Duo has the programmable 10-stem dealeo but honesty, its nice but not a huge deal to not have it.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I use my lights for commuting on foot and ski as well as bike, so I like a very low setting for getting ready and leaving town, and a mid setting for running. I prefer 4 or 5 levels on the lights I build, and especially like the ability to go down a level with a longer button press or up with a quick click.

I have been using the Yinding for running recently now that I have my own levels programmed in.

Sure increases the battery life!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok I have confirmed the emitter is XM-L2 T6 1A for the first batch which had already been ordered. For the factory to switch it to U2 3B they would need an order of 500 minimum. The initial sample is being sent to me to disassemble and confirm proper construction from the factory for GearBest.

I have confirmed a group buy price if interested. For the light head only would be $28.79 and the set would be $39.69 if we buy 20 total of either or a combo. I have also confirmed there will be a coupon code given when we have confirmed the quality and the light sells. I know group buys aren't everyone's cup of tea.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

That is a great deal for the lighthead.


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## OldManBike (Apr 16, 2011)

Thanks for all your work on this GJHS.

So with battery pack, the group price is $39.69. Am I right that you're talking about this, for which the non-group price is $41.42 shipped? [EDIT: no, it's not the same, see below]

I'm not clear what is involved in doing a group buy, but if it's only saving a dollar-fifty I'd just go ahead and order myself now.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I wish they would remove that confusing link, which is the price and link for an XML version which they decided not to stock. I'm not sure the price difference, if any, of the XM-L2 version which is on its way. 

I'm just trying to get a few options for people to save a few bucks. I say wait to see the price with coupon code savings first when the light is in stock. I hope I'm not making it confusing myself


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## C.M.S (Aug 28, 2009)

TiGeo said:


> My Duo has the programmable 10-stem dealeo but honesty, its nice but not a huge deal to not have it.


70% / 100 % is all I have mine programmed to .

Main thing I like is the no strobe or off when you cycle through .


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I do mine at 100 70 50.


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## OldManBike (Apr 16, 2011)

GJHS said:


> I wish they would remove that confusing link, which is the price and link for an XML version which they decided not to stock. I'm not sure the price difference, if any, of the XM-L2 version which is on its way.
> 
> I'm just trying to get a few options for people to save a few bucks. I say wait to see the price with coupon code savings first when the light is in stock. I hope I'm not making it confusing myself


Right, duh. Sorry to revive the confusion.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

TiGeo said:


> I do mine at 100 70 50.


10, 30, 70 for running & skiing. 30 70 100 for biking.

So, for the group buy- Multi-level? Neutral white XML-2? If so, I'm in.


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## C.M.S (Aug 28, 2009)

GJHS said:


> Ok I have confirmed the emitter is XM-L2 T6 1A for the first batch which had already been ordered. For the factory to switch it to U2 3B they would need an order of 500 minimum. The initial sample is being sent to me to disassemble and confirm proper construction from the factory for GearBest.
> 
> "Proper construction " ?? That puts my mind at ease into getting one .


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## OldManBike (Apr 16, 2011)

So then does "group buy" just mean they'll give us the lower price if 20 people order the lights using the coupon code? Or does it mean one person collects money from everyone else, places the order for all the lights, and then re-ships the lights?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

c.m.s said:


> "proper construction " ?? That puts my mind at ease into getting one .


Yes proof that this truly is an original Yinding with proper pills etc. Not the garbage FastTech sold me or should I say the clone the Yinding turned into. If it's the original quality, then this is a great little light.

I'm putting my reputation on this and I don't want to mislead people. I am glad to see GearBest taking the time to send them out to be tested and not just posting a link with a buy now button.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

OldManBike said:


> So then does "group buy" just mean they'll give us the lower price if 20 people order the lights using the coupon code? Or does it mean one person collects money from everyone else, places the order for all the lights, and then re-ships the lights?


Hmmm I honestly don't know  I wondered that myself. Anyone have group buy experience?


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

GJHS said:


> Ok I have confirmed the emitter is XM-L2 T6 1A for the first batch which had already been ordered. For the factory to switch it to U2 3B they would need an order of 500 minimum. The initial sample is being sent to me to disassemble and confirm proper construction from the factory for GearBest.
> 
> I have confirmed a group buy price if interested. For the light head only would be $28.79 and the set would be $39.69 if we buy 20 total of either or a combo. I have also confirmed there will be a coupon code given when we have confirmed the quality and the light sells. I know group buys aren't everyone's cup of tea.


Sounds like a good deal for the lighthead. Not sure a $10 battery would be any good. I would rather have an empty pannova case and buy my own batteries.

How would a group buy even work? One person receives the shipment and then has to send them out to the rest of us? Sounds like a major hassle for the organizer, plus there would be additional cost of shipping.


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## siata94 (Jan 27, 2013)

I've only participated in GBs, some with Gearbest and have bought several items thru Gearbest and so far all has went well. Usual method is a coupon code and everybody orders directly. If it's a limited item, then coupon sent to the organizer and he shares w/ those who committed to the group buy. 

GJHS is doing all the legwork and due diligence and that's all you've got to go by, hoping that items received are the same as sample item tested. My limited experience with Gearbest has been positive so...

Thanks for doing all the work GJHS.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Like TiGeo, my cheap Yinding battery lasts 2.5 hours on high, still after a year of light use, so it's good for me. I would agree a case and some KeepPower 3400mAh protected Panasonics would be best.

I will confirm the group buy deal, though I think the coupon will bring it down pretty close and no hassle.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Group buy should just be a coupon code..they aren't losing any money on this.


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## C.M.S (Aug 28, 2009)

How long are we talking about in getting one of these in hand all said and done considering these are originally XML's and being built with XML2's ?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

If I'm correct, the Yinding factory will have them done in like a week or two. They have already been ordered. I will confirm all dates tonight.


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## dan4jeepin (Apr 9, 2007)

I'd be interested in a group buy on one of these. I've been looking for a clone of these but didn't want to gamble on the quality.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

How does the XM-L2 T6 1A compare to the color of mine with a XM-L2 T6 3B?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Cool white 1A vs a more Natural 3B


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Ok...so whiter...less "peachy"?


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## OldManBike (Apr 16, 2011)

GJHS said:


> Yes proof that this truly is an original Yinding with proper pills etc. Not the garbage FastTech sold me or should I say the clone the Yinding turned into. If it's the original quality, then this is a great little light.
> 
> I'm putting my reputation on this and I don't want to mislead people. I am glad to see GearBest taking the time to send them out to be tested and not just posting a link with a buy now button.


Assuming GJHS's sample checks out, I'm in.

The battery for my helmet-mounted Piko is toast. Compared to a new battery for the Piko, this looks to be brighter and much cheaper.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

TiGeo said:


> Ok...so whiter...less "peachy"?


 Yes very white


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## siata94 (Jan 27, 2013)

my pic is of 1A vs 3C (1A is 6500-7000K, 3C is 5000K, 3B is 5200K I believe).


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## hardboiled (Jun 10, 2006)

sorry for being a noob, but would you expect these to throw out an equivalent amount of light as the Duo? in any event, assuming the sample looks good, I'd be in for one.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

TiGeo has both and may give a better comparison. The Duo claims 1500 lumens and with two decent driven XM-L2 T6s the Yinding should put out 12-1300 lumens.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

The Duo is certainly a higher quality unit. With that said, the Yinding has what appears to be about the same output as the Duo.


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## Kelly10 (Dec 12, 2014)

GJHS, newbie here but color me interested in a XM-L2 T6 1A if your sample turns out to be good


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

If this plays out and the quality is there, I'd be in. Preferably for light and battery, but would be OK with just the head, too.


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## upstateSC-rider (Dec 25, 2003)

Thanks for the legwork, GJ.
You can count me in for both if it has your approval.


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## ThrottleAbuse (Jul 2, 2010)

I'm will throw another $40 in the fire. Although I need another light like I need another hole in my head.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

siata94 said:


> my pic is of 1A vs 3C (1A is 6500-7000K, 3C is 5000K, 3B is 5200K I believe).


1A / 7000k is probably too blue for best depth perception. I find the 3500k too warm and peachy. 5500 is probably the sweet spot for neutral white IMHO, if we get a choice in future batches, but sounds like not in the first one.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok guys I confirmed the light will be in stock and on sale next Friday. No word on a coupon yet. You can presale now, yet don't! Patience

I haven't received my sample and haven't confirmed the quality so at this point I suggest you wait to buy until I get it and can confirm the construction. They will DHL it to me quick so waiting a week more isn't a big deal. I don't work for GearBest. Please wait until I can open it up and review the quality.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

subscribed. nice work GJHS. too bad you didn't get the bin/color specified before they ordered the first batch from the factory. still sounds pretty sweet. i was definitely watching the duo clone threads ... but as the clones of clones seemed to get worse and worse i had let it go. 

Question:
If I think my 2 XML torches (one bar/one helmet) have served me well for the last couple of years ... do folks here think 2 of these (one bar, one helmet) would be good? I know there are probably better combos and/or helmet lights ( from what i've read ) but really...compared to what i have, it should be a big improvement, right?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

My XML Yinding is very bright. I have run mine on the bars, solo on my Singletrack trails and found Meduim to be plenty. While I too wish the LED was more natural, I'm guessing the XM-L2 at around 12-1300 lumens will be an amazing little light. I think 2 would make a nice combo unless you need long throw for high speed.

Here is a photo of the original XML Yinding


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## siata94 (Jan 27, 2013)

I wonder what the tint range is for the expensive cars, they almost seem pure white some even blueish tint.


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## spddmn24 (Jun 9, 2013)

siata94 said:


> I wonder what the tint range is for the expensive cars, they almost seem pure white some even blueish tint.


OEM HID'HID'S are 4300k.

Anyone know what this yinding tint would look like compared to an xt-40? My xt-40 just came in and I can't tell the difference between its tint and my real duo. Extremely happy with it, but I can't see it lasting very long with its complete lack of heat sinking so I'm tempted to pick up an xm-l2 yinding for when it bites the dust.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

slcpunk said:


> ....Question:
> If I think my 2 XML torches (one bar/one helmet) have served me well for the last couple of years ... do folks here think 2 of these (one bar, one helmet) would be good? I know there are probably better combos and/or helmet lights ( from what i've read ) but really...compared to what i have, it should be a big improvement, right?


Depending on what torches you were using...I would think so. If your bar torch was single emitter, a duel emitter lamp is going to be really nice upgrade and give you a wider / more even beam pattern. That said I can ride with a two torch set-up without too much problem but with the cost of these cheap/Chinese lamps it just doesn't make sense to do that any more unless you really are a died-in-the-wool minimalist / weight weenie.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I see you can now buy the 10-step driver from KD.
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023801

If there was a way we could buy the driver with LEDs included in our choice of tint from KD or other, this could be installed in the well- made Yinding housing for an easy upgrade if Yinding can't do it.

I wrote KD, but have no idea if they will respond.

Add Vancbiker's aluminum mount with fins, and you have a nice light.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

^^^at this point just get a Duo...


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

TiGeo said:


> ^^^at this point just get a Duo...


Hah, much too easy and not enough fiddling. You know I'll have to do this just because.

Does Gemini offer a neutral tint? Still could use a heat-sinking Gopro mount.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

TiGeo said:


> How does the XM-L2 T6 1A compare to the color of mine with a XM-L2 T6 3B?


It will be more Blue/Green by comparison.

Take a look at the ANSII White Color chart


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

Add me to the list for a light head. A ten dollar battery and charger is just a little too questionable for my taste. It looks like GearBest already has 30 pre-orders for the light head, and 13 for the kit with battery pack. If the sample product build quality checks out, this will be a hot seller.

With a neutral colour temp it would fly off the shelves. Upgrade the driver to programmable (like the KD version), and they'd be giving the big boys a run for their money. For pennies difference in manufacturing cost, the revamped Yinding would replace the SS X2 as the top discussion thread on here for the next year or so. That's, in essence, free advertising for a no-name light. You can't even pay for that kind of publicity.

Many of you bought the SolarStorm battery case under the Pannovo label. The new version of the SolarStorm case is out with the two features I thought the original one lacked. It now has a protection board, and charge level lights. There is also a little oddity of an extra connector with a USB end on it, so it can be used as a battery bank to recharge your mobile devices. I would have preferred that was implemented the way MagicShine did it -- as an extra dongle the plus into the standard MS plug. It's yet to be determined if the step down to 5 volts occurs on the protection board, or in the USB end of the cord. Does anybody know where we can get a water tight cap for a US plug?

Gearbest is one of the places carrying the new SS battery box, priced at $12.58. At Kaidomain it's $11.00. Now if Gearbest were to put together a nice bundle of the YinDing light head and the SolarStorm case, I'd bet that would sweeten the deal for MTBR readers. Maybe someone could whisper that into Dora's ear.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ian_C said:


> Gearbest is one of the places carrying the new SS battery box, priced at $12.58. At Kaidomain it's $11.00. Now if Gearbest were to put together a nice bundle of the YinDing light head and the SolarStorm case, I'd bet that would sweeten the deal for MTBR readers. Maybe someone could whisper that into Dora's ear.


On the Budget Light Forum GearBest had a coupon for the battery box on 12/8, Coupon code: New2S2PCM Price: $9.99 Solarstorm New 2S2P 8.4V 2000mAh Dual Water-resistant 4 x 18650 External Battery Pack for Bicycle Light Digital Device-12.58 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
I just checked and it still works.

I thought about asking Dora for a bundle with the box and some KeepPower 3400 mAH protected Panos. I'm sure she would be receptive.

I will also find out how big the first batch is and if we can customize a bunch with the driver. When asked last time about the neutral Led, the minimum was 500 orders.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Wow, KD is fast! They just wrote me that they now have the upgrade board listed.
XML-2 U2 as well.
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023805

I asked them to confirm the tint.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

GJHS said:


> On the Budget Light Forum GearBest had a coupon for the battery box on 12/8, Coupon code: New2S2PCM Price: $9.99 Solarstorm New 2S2P 8.4V 2000mAh Dual Water-resistant 4 x 18650 External Battery Pack for Bicycle Light Digital Device-12.58 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
> I just checked and it still works.
> 
> I thought about asking Dora for a bundle with the box and some KeepPower 3400 mAH protected Panos. I'm sure she would be receptive.


Yes the battery case has good price. I've got one to test. Will try to test overdischarge today. Overcharge is working correctly at 8.46V.

Regading batteries there is no point having protected Keeppower when you have protection in the case and knowing they are Panasonics. It would be cheaper and equaly good (regarding voltage even better) not having protected cells.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Wow, KD is fast! They just wrote me that they now have the upgrade board listed.
> XML-2 U2 as well.
> http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023805


It is unclear to me wether it is price for the PCB and leds including driver or PCB with leds only. Can you clearify this?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

ledoman said:


> Regading batteries there is no point having protected Keeppower when you have protection in the case and knowing they are Panasonics. It would be cheaper and equaly good (regarding voltage even better) not having protected cells.


I was trying to pick a good battery from their catalog. Can you suggest a better one for the combo?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Any Panasonic, Sanyo, LG, Samsung, Sony are good ones. It is just matter of price/performance ratio and for some applications the voltage curve and current draw. For example Sanyo has higher voltage curve at the end than Panasonic, which means it can stay above Vf of the leds for longer time, but they have less capacity and the voltage drop at the end would be more step. If the driver is not regulated and we have two leds in series this can be an issue. Protected cells would make even more voltage drop because of PCB resistance.

Now for someone the price is more impotant, the others prefers runtime. No doubt we don't need high drain cells for this application. On the *budget* side I can see *Samsung 2600mAh* which are very good up to 3A by my tests, so 6A in pair. More than enough for Yinding. Price can be down to about $4 per cell. On *high end* there are *Panasonic 3400mAh* at doubled price, but only 800mAh difference. Lately I've seen Panasonic 3100mAh being good price/performace.

I would suggest we arrange battery cells as an option. Don't forget Li-Ion cell transport restrictions. Also with higher price/weight we are getting more in customs trouble. Maybe not in US, but we don't all live there.

If needed I can elaborate more about Li-Ion cells. I've been tested many different brands and capacities. There is member of BLF who has tested them much, much more. See his comparator -> HERE. Tremendous work!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I meant that GearBest sells to make a bundle


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

ledoman said:


> It is unclear to me wether it is price for the PCB and leds including driver or PCB with leds only. Can you clearify this?


I have asked them about this.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

GJHS said:


> I meant that GearBest sells to make a bundle


We can ask them to get ones we/you want. Otherwise I would rather go with Banggood route. Still making light head and battery case combo would be good. Then you buy cells of your choice and you are done.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Yinding head with upgraded LED and driver with the protected battery box would be a killer combo. I'll be getting this.

I sure wish there was a nice protected case that took 2 cells for helmet/headband mounting as well.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

ledoman said:


> Yes the battery case has good price there at Gearbest. I've got one to test. Will try to test overdischarge today. Overcharge is working correctly at 8.46V.


Bad news, at least with mine sample. Overdischarge protection kicks in at 4.65V and stays off until voltage raises over 6V. No cell that I know won't raise it's voltage from depleted 2.3V back up to 3.0V under no load. Protection stays on until you change the cells and the capacitor inside gets almost empty which happens in about 10 seconds.

Overdischarge protection should kick in at 5.0V by specifications but I would rather see it at 5.5V. I have another battery case comming from Kaidomain and I'll see if the other one is any better in this regard.

Forgot to tell how I tested it. I've taken stepdown voltage regulator, connected it's output to the battery case springs and put DMM in parallel. Then I've changed voltage up and down to catch those figures.


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

Ofroad'bent said:


> I sure wish there was a nice protected case that took 2 cells for helmet/headband mounting as well.


Just saw this thread:
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...e-twin-battery-helmet-case-review-942264.html

Link to Case:
Helmet Battery Case | C&B SEEN Ltd


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

They confirmed- cool white.  
Still a worthwhile mod if you want the 10-step program and high-end XML2-U2 , but I won't be getting this one.



Ofroad'bent said:


> Wow, KD is fast! They just wrote me that they now have the upgrade board listed.
> XML-2 U2 as well.
> http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023805
> 
> I asked them to confirm the tint.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

For the DIY nerds, that is pretty cool! :thumbsup:


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Ofroad'bent said:


> I have asked them about this.


Includes driver and cool white LEDs. Still working on a warmer tint...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

ledoman said:


> It is unclear to me wether it is price for the PCB and leds including driver or PCB with leds only. Can you clearify this?


Looks to me like they are giving you both the driver and the board with the LED's.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Geez! I quit watching for new threads on MTBR, decide to take a peek, and here's this exciting new thread on a potentially awesome light that I've missed! I've got to check back more frequently! 

I might be interested in a lighthead version. Would be a little while though before I'd buy. I'm also in process of modding my KD duo clone (with the new 10-step driver), so I'm a little hesitant to drop that and spend more money on almost the same light just to gain the better heatsinking (I know the heatsinking is worth it, but I was planning to address my lack of heatsinking in mine the best I could). 

Ugh! Always something to add to the wishlist! 

Siata94 is right about the GearBest group buys that have been happening over at BLF. I've been involved in 2 myself. They just send out a coupon code and people place their own orders. If they hit some milestone, say 100 units, they may revise the coupon to lower the price a few more bucks and offer refunds / gift certificate codes for future orders to those first 100 purchasers. 

I also have two of the DIY SolarStorm battery boxes coming. My order shipped out rather quickly, which has been unusual for them.

-Garry


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I didn't realize they were doing pre-orders. I might have to jump on that. Hopefully we wouldn't have a repeat of last time, where only the initial batch is any good. I bet Gearbest wouldn't have qualms about ordering a nearly identical looking batch (but worse performing) from a secondary supplier once their supply runs out. Or worse yet, the orginal manufacturer cuts corners themselves. Who knows what really goes on over there. 


What's going to be cheaper, pre-order or wait for the coupon?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

As I've said before, I don't work for GearBest. My opinion is to wait to buy for a few reasons including a coupon and checking quality first. There is little worry of the first batch being the only good ones. The custom SolarStorm XT40 original batch sold out fast and there have been no complaints as of yet. According to Dora these are coming straight from the Yinding factory. 

The whole project to find the original Yinding started with an lengthy explanation of how the Yinding was very popular, then they started to send out cheaper and cheaper parts until sales stopped. If it's selling, there would little to no reason for them to do the same after all this work. Why, to sell 20 lights? She just recently asked again how to confirm original quality. I posted pics of the original disassembled with thermal paste, gaskets and she called the factory to ensure the build quality would be the same. 

Honestly, so far GearBest has been great on all three lights. That SolarStorm X3 XM-L2 was amazing and my favorite so far. Dora has listened to our requests and worked to make them happen. I asked for a neutral led and she called the factory. I asked for the SSX3 driver, she called the supplier, sent a picture and the specs. You asked for a Yinding combo with the battery box and she said yes.

My XML sample should be here tomorrow and I will post beam shots and pictures of it the next day. The XM-L2 sample should be here shortly after Christmas so the it's not a long wait for me to confirm. So I again I say wait to buy. We have insisted on quality now let's prove it first. This keeps everyone honest and happy.


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## Ottoreni (Jan 27, 2004)

Looking forward to your post, hopefully tomorrow, before I place my order.

Thanks for all the legwork!


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

@ GJHS...Indeed, thanks for the legwork. Very important when dealing with the Chinese to be very careful in explaining things as some words in English don't translate well into Chinese. Adding photo's is paramount when addressing special requests or problems. Thankfully, you seem to understand this. I look forward to what the Gearbest people are able to come up with. 

In the mean time I plan to contact the people at Kaidomain to see if they can come up with a replacement LED board for their "KD 2" lamp. They already supply the replacement driver/LED board but I want to see if they can get a "Neutral white" version. I've never made a request like this before to a Chinese website so I'm somewhat skeptical about how it will all go. Since others seem to have had some success from KD on getting the drivers it is my hope that adding my voice to the mix will help to get us another option with the neutral white LED's.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Ok you convinced me. I'll wait until you get the samples. Meanwhile, my gearbest x3 is on the slow boat to either the Netherlands or the USA. It's going somewhere, that's for sure.

Well, it looks like they might be offering a free Pannovo case for pre-orders. That might make it worth it.


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

varider said:


> Well, it looks like they might be offering a free Pannovo case for pre-orders. That might make it worth it.


Now this is hot, for less than $30USD you get a real Yinding with real nice battery case...add in 4 good 18650 for $20 from fasttech and there you have a top quility light unit for $50

BTW, does anyne know what bin/tint does the (Yinding Clone)lightmall version comes with? I just recieved mine and they're quit white to my eyes, wondering if they are T6 1A or something else
2xCree XM-L2 2500-Lumen With 3 group modes LED Bicycle Light Lamp(Lamp cap only) - 2LED Bike Light - LED Bicycle Lights - Bike Lights & Headlamps Worldwide Free Shipping!!!


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

epic-gamer said:


> ...BTW, does anyone know what bin/tint does the (Yinding Clone)lightmall version comes with? I just received mine and they're quite white to my eyes, wondering if they are T6 1A or something else
> 2xCree XM-L2 2500-Lumen With 3 group modes LED Bicycle Light Lamp(Lamp cap only) - 2LED Bike Light - LED Bicycle Lights - Bike Lights & Headlamps Worldwide Free Shipping!!!


It might be with XM-L2 U2 as the Lightmall's version looks very much like the ones sold by Kaidomain. ( KD2 is listed as using XM-L2 U2 ) Then again Lightmalls didn't list the bin so it could just be standard T6 and maybe 1A. Hopefully by Christmas I should have the KD2 version in my hands.


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## wetpaint (Sep 7, 2009)

Hopefully it turns out to be the same quality, if so, I'll be ordering one.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Huh, color me impressed, I asked Dora for a combo with the battery box and she agreed. I didn't know that she would take it up a notch and included it for the same price. That really is a great deal, thanks Dora.

I know I may sound crazy here, yet I still reccomend waiting to order until I get the sample. I will ask her to throw in the case for those who wait on my reccomendation. It's only fair, I'm sure she will and I will confirm this before the presale ends. The XML version should be here today and as soon as the XM-L2 version is made, she will ship it to me fast. I'll be happy when it arrives, these super late night/A.M. conversations are tough. China time is 12 hours ahead of mine.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Cat-man-do said:


> @ GJHS...Indeed, thanks for the legwork. Very important when dealing with the Chinese to be very careful in explaining things as some words in English don't translate well into Chinese. Adding photo's is paramount when addressing special requests or problems. Thankfully, you seem to understand this. I look forward to what the Gearbest people are able to come up with.
> 
> In the mean time I plan to contact the people at Kaidomain to see if they can come up with a replacement LED board for their "KD 2" lamp. They already supply the replacement driver/LED board but I want to see if they can get a "Neutral white" version. I've never made a request like this before to a Chinese website so I'm somewhat skeptical about how it will all go. Since others seem to have had some success from KD on getting the drivers it is my hope that adding my voice to the mix will help to get us another option with the neutral white LED's.


KD replied that they can do 4500K neutral LEDs. I asked them how we can order those.

Add that to the Ynding deal and the Pannovo box and I won't have to build lights from scratch for my friends much in future.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Ofroad'bent said:


> *KD replied that they can do 4500K neutral LEDs. I asked them how we can order those.
> *
> Add that to the Ynding deal and the Pannovo box and I won't have to build lights from scratch for my friends much in future.


That's great! I just hope they stay in the XM-L2 format. Someone be sure to speak up when these are posted on their website. Looking forward to the other Gearbest options as well. Looks like I have to watch both this thread and the KD2 thread so I don't miss the updates.

Going forward, if all these things turn out good the name brand light makers are going to have to sit up and take notice of the fact that the people who buy their lamps want the option for warmer LED tints. A "switchable" LED board would make a great option for a bike light, not to mention a great selling point to draw sales. If Gloworm offered a switchable LED board for their lamps I would have been already on this!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok light has arrived. Now I know what the original group was saying, the quality is much better than Gen 2. For reference of my Gen 2, I ordered right before original supply ran out. I was told by FastTech not to cancel, they would build more and my order would be delayed. So basically I got the first of the cheaper Yindings.

I will post a review, disassembly and comparison tonight. Maybe I will take it for a ride and post some beam shots vs the SolarStorm X3 XM-L2 and the 2nd Gen. I already noticed the interface is different, the original steps gently up to each level and when you turn it off, slowly fades out. Not something I've seen before. 

I'm going to apologize now since I won't be able to any current test. I will try to get a DMM for the XM-L2 version. This ones here for your questions so ask away, if I miss something. I'm happy to test what I can.

Oh and for those wondering: Yes, I see with these optics, it's definitely a bar light with a nice diffused beam.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

GJHS said:


> Ok light has arrived..... I already noticed the interface is different, the original steps gently up to each level and when you turn it off, slowly fades out. Not something I've seen before...


This might be a good thing but depends. You need to compare it to the other versions to see if it is as bright. I figure it's quite possible that they are using the same driver chip as is used in the Manta Ray D003 which also does the slow-fade-mode-change thing. That said you might want to check it to see if it also has the 10 level sub menu which the D003 also happens to have. If it has the additional sub menu than likely this is all a big plus. It could be the Gearbest people are aware of the KD2 and want this lamp to offer the same frills.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> This might be a good thing but depends. You need to compare it to the other versions to see if it is as bright. I figure it's quite possible that they are using the same driver chip as is used in the Manta Ray D003 which also does the slow-fade-mode-change thing. That said you might want to check it to see if it also has the 10 level sub menu which the D003 also happens to have. If it has the additional sub menu than likely this is all a big plus. It could be the Gearbest people are aware of the KD2 and want this lamp to offer the same frills.


It's as bright as my Gen 2. Menu wise it's L-M-H and a hold activates a slow steady blinking mode. How is the 10 levels step activated?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

GJHS said:


> It's as bright as my Gen 2. Menu wise it's L-M-H and a hold activates a slow steady blinking mode. How is the 10 levels step activated?


Hold the button on any mode for about 10 seconds- it will turn off then will light in the lowest of 10 steps. A short click moves up to the next step. A lo-o-ong press turns the light off, then if you keep holding it goes back on with the level you selected now saved for that setting.

If it does that it'll be just about there, except for the tint on the first batch.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Sorry to report, holding the button in any mode including off activates the blinking mode.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I had a hard time explaining the programming, GJHS. 
Here's what ledoman wrote about the KD one, in case the driver is the same:


it has three modes (mode 1, 2, 3 - see downwards)
short press turns the light on in 1st mode
every next short press you gradualy cycle through all three modes (gradualy changing the brightness)
long press about 2 seconds turns the light off
no last mode memory
it has hiden flash, you can turn it on when light is off by presing switch for about two seconds. With long press you turn flash off, when flashing with short press you put the light into 1st mode

now the cherry on the cake - You can set any of three modes choosing from 10 levels of brightness
very long press (about 8s) in any of three modes set yellow status light flashing
short press to cycle through 10 levels of brightness. On chosen level very looooong press until light turns off and on again sets you brightness level for that mode
repeat this for all modes you want to set


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

GJHS said:


> Sorry to report, holding the button in any mode including off activates the blinking mode.


Okay, no problem. Thought maybe you might of gotten lucky. Good to hear that its the same brightness.


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## inch (Feb 6, 2014)

I just preordered the headless version since I already thought about building the battery pack myself.
Question is, where do I get a fitting female connector?


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## Niles (Feb 1, 2009)

I'm not a light guy, but reading through this thread has made me excited. I've been looking for an upgrade to my current setup, and it sounds like this just might be it.

As a request, when it comes time to order, can someone please explain the order options in pain English? I would need a complete setup, but it sounds like there are varying opinions on how to get the best setup (for instance, buying batteries or battery pack elsewhere?).

I don't know anything about the numbers and letters associated with the LEDs and batteries, so I'll basically trust the recommendation I get here.

I'll probably be in for two.

Edit: this is my current light's battery pack. Would it be compatible with this package?


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

Niles said:


> I'm not a light guy, but reading through this thread has made me excited. I've been looking for an upgrade to my current setup, and it sounds like this just might be it.
> 
> As a request, when it comes time to order, can someone please explain the order options in pain English? I would need a complete setup, but it sounds like there are varying opinions on how to get the best setup (for instance, buying batteries or battery pack elsewhere?).
> 
> ...


If you just want simplicity, you could get the one with battery
Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery Pack )-41.42 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
everything you need to get the light shining , plus you get a case as a bouns if you even plan on using seperate 18650 cells later down the road

The reason why we perfer Head unit + case is becuase the quaility of the included battery pack is a hit or miss. Having a case let us use high quaility 18650 cells that give longer runtime and brighter output throughout its cycle


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Niles said:


> Edit: this is my current light's battery pack. Would it be compatible with this package?
> 
> View attachment 947637


Yes, it is compatible. That is also an "Open Light Systems " battery so it is likely a good battery depending on how old it is.

If you want to use the included "battery box" with the lamp being offered you will need 4 separate 18650 Li-ion cells and a means to charge them.


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## Niles (Feb 1, 2009)

epic-gamer said:


> If you just want simplicity, you could get the one with battery
> Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery Pack )-41.42 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
> everything you need to get the light shining , plus you get a case as a bouns if you even plan on using seperate 18650 cells later down the road
> 
> The reason why we perfer Head unit + case is becuase the quaility of the included battery pack is a hit or miss. Having a case let us use high quaility 18650 cells that give longer runtime and brighter output throughout its cycle


Thanks for the reply. The included batteries are 2000mah. Does the battery affect the brightness? If so, should I hold out for better batteries?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok everyone, Step 1: Beam shots
I tried to take advantage of a warmish night to get some comparison shots of the New "Original" Yinding XML vs my 2013 Gen 2 Yinding XML. The original has optics, while the Gen 2 uses reflectors.

Since its use as bar light has been discussed, I added some shots of the custom SolarStorm X3 XM-L2 and combined some shots with the Solarstorm XT40 XM-L2 mounted on my helmet. I used the MTBR camera settings and my Sony Nex-3. Hope these help.

2013 Gen 2 Yinding XML on High







New "Original" Yinding XML on High







SSX3 XM-L2 on High







2013 Gen 2 on High with XT40 Helmet mounted on High







New "Original" on High with XT40 Helmet mounted on High







SSX3 on High with XT40 Helmet mounted on High








2013 Gen 2 Yinding XML on High







New "Original" Yinding XML on High







SSX3 XM-L2 on High







2013 Gen 2 XML on High with XT40 Helmet mounted on High







New "Original" XML on High with XT40 Helmet mounted on High







SSX3 XM-L2 on High with XT40 Helmet mounted on High


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Niles said:


> Thanks for the reply. The included batteries are 2000mah. Does the battery affect the brightness? If so, should I hold out for better batteries?


What epic-gamer said. No, it shouldn't. It will effect run time though. Personally if it were me I wouldn't buy with the included battery.

If you want to order some good cells I would suggest looking at this link and then use it as a starting point. I highly recommend using either Panasonic or Samsung cells with Sanyo as a close third. Since you will have a box with a protection circuit built in I also suggest buying "unprotected cells" which are generally a bit less expensive.

Since you already have a 4 cell charger you should be able to charge the battery box with your current charger. Of course the other option is to buy a 4-bay 18650 Li-ion charger which will top all the cells off to max. A good *4-bay charger is about $25. ( *couldn't find the good brand name ones' in stock but this is an example ) of what I'm talking about. ) Either that or buy two 2-bay cheapies which will usually work fine and cost half as much.

There are other questions about the battery boxes that I can't answer, particularly when it comes to how they mount on the frame of your bike.


----------



## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Thanks for the beamshots GJHS. The original looks pretty sweet. It looks almost as bright as the Gearbest Solarstorm X3 and way better than the Gen 2. People who bought that really got worked over. 

That X3/XT40 is a killer combo, but two Yindings with the new xm-l2's might be almost as good. Plus the Yindings are very small in comparison and the optics are easily replaceable. We'll have to wait and see once you get the sample.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

varider said:


> People who bought that really got worked over.


Thanks I feel better about it now. The funny part is the Gen 2 is a good light until you compare it.

The SSX3 is definitely a good amount brighter with more throw. I was testing it out on my helmet and it was just as bright as the XT40 with a more defined hotspot. I also rode the original on the bars with the XT40 on the helmet and then the SSX3 on bars with the XT40 and there was a big difference. Both are great combos and the original with XML really impressed me. That much light out of this tiny light is amazing and the beam is so smooth. I'm just not sure, even with two, you will get enough throw for the high speed stuff.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

GJHS said:


> Ok everyone, Step 1: Beam shots
> I tried to take advantage of a warmish night to get some comparison shots of the Original Yinding XML vs my Gen 2 Yinding XML. * The original has optics, while the Gen 2 uses reflectors. *


**OH NO! Reflectors? :eekster: I'm trying to figure out how it could have reflectors if it's a Yinding.  Still, the beam pattern looks useful. I need to see how deep the reflectors are. Can you supply a photo of the front of the new lamp? Add to that can you show what medium and low look like?

***Edit*...Oh cat farts...I thought the Gen two was the NEW lamp! I guess I'm wrong about that. :???: Looking at the photos I was expecting to see an example of the NEW Yinding. "Me'sa sorry for tinking the wrong ting". 

Skipping ahead; You supply some real nice beam photos :thumbsup:
To people who might not know, the photos showing these lamps in combo with the XT40 helmet mounted are HIGHLY representative of what you will actually see.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok I just looked closer and they're not reflectors on the Gen 2. They are optics with a clear view of the emitters, sorry about that. I will post pictures of them tomorrow. My Gen 2 came perfect and has been working great for the last year. After reading of all the stripped front screws of the clones, I havent wanted to take it apart. I will completely disassemble the new "original" which definitely has the proper dimpled optics and take comparison pictures of both. So far there is not one thing that they have in common except the emitters. 

Um Low? Medium?  Ha Ha I thought that last time I took beam shots, it was too much info and decided this time that I would just take pictures on High. I had a moment of doubt and thought nah nobody will want Low and Medium. Note to self: take all levels for the XM-L2 version.

Thanks for the compliment CatManDo, it's a bit of a juggling act holding the bike up, pointing the light on your helmet in the right spot and taking a long explore photo at the same time. I'm glad they came out OK:idea:I think I need an assistant for my next try.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Cat-man-do said:


> What epic-gamer said. No, it shouldn't. It will effect run time though. Personally if it were me I wouldn't buy with the included battery.
> 
> If you want to order some good cells I would suggest looking at this link and then use it as a starting point. I highly recommend using either Panasonic or Samsung cells with Sanyo as a close third. Since you will have a box with a protection circuit built in I also suggest buying "unprotected cells" which are generally a bit less expensive.
> 
> ...


+1 about which cells brand to choose. There are also LG and Sony to consider.

Regarding charger I would use the 8.4V charger and from time to time fully charge cells in separate but consistent charger to balance the cells. I doesn't need to be 4bay one. 2 bay is suffcient if you do it few times a year. With good brand cells there won't be much need to do this frequently.

In a few days I'll try to publish review of that particular battery box from Gearbest and Kaidomain. Until then ... mount can be done using quite wide strap included. Haven't try it yet, though.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

GJHS said:


> ..Ok I just looked closer and they're not reflectors on the Gen 2. They are optics with a clear view of the emitters, sorry about that. I will post pictures of them tomorrow. My Gen 2 came perfect and has been working great for the last year....


Probably TIR optics. That's okay, I'm just interested in the new one you have, how well it works and how it compares to the original. Why don't we call it, "Gen3" to avoid any further confusion.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

*GJHS*, many thanks for your finding & sharing the information with us! :thumbsup:

I've planned to add Yinding to my "collection" of lights for some time - although initial version was offered as a bundle with battery only, so I've waited for stand-alone package, but then it was replaced by clones of questionable quality everywhere, so I've dropped the idea of buying it.

Now your very useful information allowed me to restore old plan. GearBest's pre-sale campaign will be ending soon, so I've crossed the fingers and placed the order. In any case, even the light itself will be not as good as very first samples, included battery case will justify the price anyway.

Thank you very much, and Merry Christmas!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Thanks Archie, a Merry Christmas to you as well.

Ok as promised, I asked Dora at GearBest last night to include the battery box for those who wait and not just for presale. She agreed, so if you wait to confirm quality before buying, as you should, you have one week after I post my review of the new Yinding XM-L2 to order and still get the battery box free. 

Guys, I say it again: many many Thanks to Dora for her work on this. Sure they want to sell lights, yet how many have been so kind and receptive? Trust me this hasn't been just a simple can you find this light, Ok, here ya go.


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## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

Thanks for your hard work GJHS, I thought i'd missed out on the decent Yindings and was put off by the reports of low quality clones. Anyway, I've taken a chance and placed a pre-order for 2 light-heads. It should be a nice upgrade from my MS clones


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

So I placed an order for head unit + gift to make a direct comparison to first original YD with XML2 T63B tint.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Cat-man-do said:


> That's great! I just hope they stay in the XM-L2 format. Someone be sure to speak up when these are posted on their website. Looking forward to the other Gearbest options as well. Looks like I have to watch both this thread and the KD2 thread so I don't miss the updates.
> 
> Going forward, if all these things turn out good the name brand light makers are going to have to sit up and take notice of the fact that the people who buy their lamps want the option for warmer LED tints. A "switchable" LED board would make a great option for a bike light, not to mention a great selling point to draw sales. If Gloworm offered a switchable LED board for their lamps I would have been already on this!


I think that is a great idea..I thought Action was going to do something similar but apparently it didn't pan out.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

For the SS battery box, does this have the right connector for the Yinding (standard MS type) or does it have the SS threaded type? What a great deal..lighthead and box for under $30 delivered.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

TiGeo said:


> For the SS battery box, does this have the right connector for the Yinding (standard MS type) or does it have the SS threaded type?


Threaded SS type, but I don't see problem to connect MS type.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Crap...that stinks.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

GJHS said:


> Thanks Archie, a Merry Christmas to you as well.
> 
> Ok as promised, I asked Dora at GearBest last night to include the battery box for those who wait and not just for presale. She agreed, so if you wait to confirm quality before buying, as you should, you have one week after I post my review of the new Yinding XM-L2 to order and still get the battery box free.
> 
> Guys, I say it again: many many Thanks to Dora for her work on this. Sure they want to sell lights, yet how many have been so kind and receptive? Trust me this hasn't been just a simple can you find this light, Ok, here ya go.


OK...maybe I took stupid pills this morning....but how do I order the light + battery box.
I have gone through all 6 pages and don't see a link?


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## jokipea (Apr 14, 2009)

the mayor said:


> OK...maybe I took stupid pills this morning....but how do I order the light + battery box.
> I have gone through all 6 pages and don't see a link?


Seriously?

Meant to add Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery Pack )-41.42 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com from post 115.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

...here you go..
Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4-Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp (4 x 18650 Battery Pack)-28.52 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

the mayor said:


> OK...maybe I took stupid pills this morning....but how do I order the light + battery box.
> I have gone through all 6 pages and don't see a link?


You wait till I get my sample, test it, then buy. You will still get the battery box :thumbsup:


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

jokipea said:


> Seriously?
> 
> Meant to add Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery Pack )-41.42 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com from post 115.


Thanks....I should have been more specific and asked for the one without the battery.
And ...I was having a cache problem because the link wasn.t showing the battery case.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

GJHS said:


> You wait till I get my sample, test it, then buy. You will still get the battery box :thumbsup:


So...what's the deal with the link bhocewar provided?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

the mayor said:


> So...what's the deal with the link bhocewar provided?


You can preorder and as a gift, get the free battery box. Last night I asked Dora to extend the deal to those who decide to wait to see the quality. She agreed to include the free battery box to people who order one week after I do the review of the XM-L2.

I'm going to dissambled the XML Yinding that came yesterday and post pictures. I can already say that it's quality and definitely way better than my Gen 2. I trust Dora, she is asking to review it because this is the first time dealing with the Yinding factory.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

GJHS said:


> You can preorder and as a gift, get the free battery box. Last night I asked Dora to extend the deal to those who decide to wait to see the quality. She agreed to include the free battery box to people who order one week after I do the review of the XM-L2.
> 
> I'm going to dissambled the XML Yinding that came yesterday and post pictures. I can already say that it's quality and definitely way better than my Gen 2. I trust Dora, she is asking to review it because this is the first time dealing with the Yinding factory.


OK...thanks.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I somehow sense that the Yinding "factory" is a single room in an apartment...


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

TiGeo said:


> I somehow sense that the Yinding "factory" is a single room in an apartment...


As most factories and sellers in China.


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

TiGeo said:


> I somehow sense that the Yinding "factory" is a single room in an apartment...


If I got it right it is supposed to look like this.


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## siata94 (Jan 27, 2013)

thanks for the great beamshots GJHS.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Okay Step 2: Disassembled Photos

Here are the disassembled pictures of the New "Original" Yinding. I am happy to report that the quality is as good as last years original Yindings. I will also say that there is not one part that is the same as my 2013 Gen 2 Yinding. Dora mentioned that the Yinding factory said that they didnt change the quality, which means last year, the sellers found cheaper quality clones to sell without telling us and as the months went on, they got cheaper and cheaper. That was my last FastTech purchase.

Here are the two side by side. As you can see everything is different including the optics, the mount and the connector.







The 2013 Gen 2 has flat optics, a mount that is not made for this light, since its bigger than the light and a non waterproof connector.







Looking at the New "Original" you can see the dimpled optics, held in by two allen screws with nice threads that hold tight, and a click together Magicshine connector







With the New "Original" front cover taken off you can see the two XML emitters, exchangeable optics and the waterproof gasket.







With the pill out you can see they added thermal paste which has now dried up.







Here's the driver. It has a fade up and fade off interface.














Everything looks just as it supposed to be. In a week, the XM-L2 will arrive and I am sure it will be of the same standard. Thank you Dora, great find.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Also, it appears that the new/old version has a nice short cable...I hate extra long cables!


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Nice teardown pictures. 

Should the thermal paste be dry? I always thought it stayed wet unless it was run for many hours.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

GJHS, thanks a lot for your effort. Can you make some more clear closeup pictures of a driver. I can't see all elements very well. 
It looks to ime it has LEDA chip and sense resistor R100 which means 2.5A to the leds. Better pictures would prove it. Also it seems to me there can be thermal protection on the driver, but can't read elements good enough.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Sure, hows this?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yes, thanks, it's a bit better. Still not perfect ;-) but I can read LEDA on 6 leg chip. This proves feedback voltage is 0.25V and 0.25/0.100 = *2.5A to the leds*. Nice! 

Thermal protection elements are on the other side. Would love to have good macro picture of it, too. Bit more detailed than the last one, please.

BTW, can you prove the small oring under the light mount? As I can recall there should be the one in the original Yinding.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Here ya go. Let me apologize in advance, it's late and I'm afraid this is the best I can do. I used a very sharp manual lens and I'm not sure I can pull more detail out


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

It is good enough, thanks. It looks to me leftmost three elements in a group are composing thermal protection since thermistors doesn't have any markings on it. Can you work with Dora to ask the factory if this is true and the circuit does have thermal protection?

Also, can you prove the small oring under the light mount? As I can recall there should be the one in the original Yinding. You can do it tomorrow if it's to late ;-)


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Guys I'm sorry, there has been a misunderstanding. Dora said she can't extend the free battery box past the presale, which ends on the 22nd. So if you want that deal, you will have to gamble that the XM-L2 is the same quality as the XML above and buy presale. Dora asked the factory and they said the quality, parts and construction are the same.


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## jeanphi500 (Nov 5, 2014)

Was waiting but given your advice, I just pulled the trigger on the presale.

Will add this one to my collection as well


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

XM-L2 U2 1A as in the same one found in KD/Lightmall version?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

jeanphi500 said:


> Was waiting but given your advice, I just pulled the trigger on the presale.
> 
> Will add this one to my collection as well


Sorry for the misunderstanding, Dora will check the initial quality and basically check everything except for what's inside before they're sent out. I'm really excited to see how much brighter the XM-L2 is. The XML combined with the XT40 was awesome.


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

Can someone straight this out. At the first page of this tread is said gearbest has wrong emitters listed and it will be fixed. Is that text fixed now, or is "xml2" still wrong and the lamp will have xml emitters instead? In other words, what emitters I am supposed to get if I pull the presale trigger now? XML or XML2? If it is XML, will XML2 version be available soon?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

GJHS said:


> ... I'm really excited to see how much brighter the XM-L2 is. ....


GJHS, I think you won't see much difference by naked eye if any. XM-L has lower Vf than XM-L2, but is less efficient. This makes very little difference at exactly the same led bin which, btw, has variance +/- 7%. This means in extreme situation they can be 14% apart in any direction. What makes XM-L2 more valuable is efficiency and they are more sturdy. It happend to me XM-L2 has unsoldered itself because of the heat but it still worked when I put it back. I have no idea how long has been exposed to high temperature. Of course the lifetime would be probably shorter.

@ XCJagge, you'll be getting XM-L2.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

XCJagge said:


> Can someone straight this out. At the first page of this tread is said gearbest has wrong emitters listed and it will be fixed. Is that text fixed now, or is "xml2" still wrong and the lamp will have xml emitters instead? In other words, what emitters I am supposed to get if I pull the presale trigger now? XML or XML2? If it is XML, will XML2 version be available soon?


XM-L2 is correct, it was originally listed as XML. They should be ready in the next few days as I understand.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

ledoman said:


> GJHS, I think you won't see much difference by naked eye if any. XM-L has lower Vf than XM-L2, but is less efficient. This makes very little difference at exactly the same led bin which, btw, has variance +/- 7%. This means in extreme situation they can be 14% apart in any direction. What makes XM-L2 more valuable is efficiency and they are more sturdy. It happend to me XM-L2 has unsoldered itself because of the heat but it still worked when I put it back. I have no idea how long has been exposed to high temperature. Of course the lifetime would be probably shorter.
> 
> @ XCJagge, you'll be getting XM-L2.


Thanks Ledoman, I myself have been really happy with the XML, so any improvement will be great. I'm also glad to see this light getting upgraded and not just getting old.


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## larres (Jul 11, 2013)

GJHS said:


> Guys I'm sorry, there has been a misunderstanding. Dora said she can't extend the free battery box past the presale, which ends on the 22nd.


But attention. If you want more than one make separate orders... I ordered more than one but they want to send me only one battery box...


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

All for a $38 light.......


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

GJHS said:


> Guys I'm sorry, there has been a misunderstanding. Dora said she can't extend the free battery box past the presale, which ends on the 22nd. So if you want that deal, you will have to gamble that the XM-L2 is the same quality as the XML above and buy presale. Dora asked the factory and they said the quality, parts and construction are the same.


Hmmm....now the listings no longer have the "free gift" battery boxes on them???


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I wonder if we added up what each person in this thread makes per hour (including benefits etc.) times the hours spent on this thread/researching this light, tearing it down, taking pictures, etc.....the Duo at $115 is looking pretty comparable 

Just having fun of course.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

TiGeo said:


> I wonder if we added up what each person in this thread makes per hour (including benefits etc.) times the hours spent on this thread/researching this light, tearing it down, taking pictures, etc.....the Duo at $115 is looking pretty comparable
> 
> Just having fun of course.


It makes for a great resume boast, too.
Apparently, anyone with a cell phone camera and a screw driver can add "Thermo / Electrical Engineer" to their resume.
I KEED...I KEED!
I love reading the techno geek stuff here.


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## Niles (Feb 1, 2009)

What happened to the bundle deal?


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## jokipea (Apr 14, 2009)

the mayor said:


> Hmmm....now the listings no longer have the "free gift" battery boxes on them???


I was just going to post that, went to order 2 lights, 1 single light unit with free battery case and 1 complete light/charger etc with free battery case. Free battery case no longer included just the normal shrink wrapped battery in a bag now. I should have bought them last night when I saw the teardown pics. Curses, foiled :madman:.

Anyway, thanks to GJHS :thumbsup: for all his effort in doing this. I now know the Duo clone I bought last year wasn't one of the first "proper" ones, works great though. Will probably still buy 2 of these before the cut off date of the 22nd.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

TiGeo said:


> I wonder if we added up what each person in this thread makes per hour (including benefits etc.) times the hours spent on this thread/researching this light, tearing it down, taking pictures, etc.....the Duo at $115 is looking pretty comparable
> 
> Just having fun of course.


I'm sorry the other night, after taking photos, I was riding back to my car with the Yinding on the bars and the XT40 on my helmet. I passed two guys walking their dogs on that same wide road in the photos, both were pushing themselves against the side of the road as if a train was coming. When I got up to them, one said "That's a bright light you got there". Knowing I have 4000 lumens for $80 makes the few hours spent worth it, not that any of them would be considered work 

:idea: Hmm wait though, you have a point: if I didn't share the deal, I wouldn't have to take photos, nor take my lights apart and spend hours on the forum, hmmm. Na nevermind I like to share, you guys are awesome :thumbsup:


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## OldManBike (Apr 16, 2011)

For those new to the party, here again are links to this light:

*With Battery
*Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery Pack )-41.42 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

*Without
*Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4-Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp (4 x 18650 Battery Pack)-28.52 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

And how is it that GJHS still has so little rep after the amazing work he's (she's?) done in this thread? Rep up.


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## Ottoreni (Jan 27, 2004)

*Asked to wait to get the shaft????*

Went to place my order this morning, and now no free battery box offered? I thought the offer was through 12/22?

Dang, after being asked to wait repeatedly for the review before placing the order, they take away the free gift.

Sorry, but that is not cool.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Niles said:


> What happened to the bundle deal?


Ok you want to know what was Too much work? This battery box deal. Last night I went to bed super late, as you can see by my posts, trying to work that deal out. I was trying to extend it for those who wanted to wait. Dora said it was ok the other night then last night explained, nicely that she preferred to keep her job. I agreed with her.

I don't know what happened to the deal. Last night at 4 am :yawn: it was still there and since today is Saturday, I'm afraid I won't be able to talk with her until Sunday night, their Monday morning. Sorry guys for the hassle.


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## Ottoreni (Jan 27, 2004)

This Dora lady is beginning to sound really sketchy.


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## OldManBike (Apr 16, 2011)

Ottoreni said:


> Went to place my order this morning, and now no free battery box offered? I thought the offer was through 12/22?
> 
> Dang, after being asked to wait repeatedly for the review before placing the order, they take away the free gift.
> 
> Sorry, but that is not cool.


Yeah, it's outrageous! How dare they sell a nice-quality light, bend over backwards to confirm the quality, charge us $40 bucks shipped, and not include a battery box. It's a total rip-off! I blame GJHS for not spending enough time communicating with Gearbest and posting here.

Stop whining. It's a deal. You're not a victim.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ottoreni said:


> Went to place my order this morning, and now no free battery box offered? I thought the offer was through 12/22?
> 
> Dang, after being asked to wait repeatedly for the review before placing the order, they take away the free gift.
> 
> Sorry, but that is not cool.


Ultimately the blame is mine and I'm sorry. Hopefully there was a glitch, since just a few hours ago she said the deal is on till the 22nd. I just won't be able to talk with her until Sunday night. After several conversations about it,

I would say (my opinion) presale if you want the deal and you should still get the box or should I say that's the only way to have any hope of getting the box. If it was a glitch then the presalers should still get the deal with the box.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ottoreni said:


> This Dora lady is beginning to sound really sketchy.


Wait wait, let me understand this. She listened, found the light, researched it, upgraded it for us, put it on sale much lower than any other seller, who by the way is selling clones, then when we requested a "combo" with the battery box, threw it in for free?

Now after after a week of everything being great, there is a glitch that took away a $10 box?

Definitely she sounds really sketchy!

Seriously?


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Damn it, I knew I shouldn't have waited.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

My opinion here 

If you still want the deal with the box, preorder NOW. She said it was good last night so some mistake must have happened. When I can, I will write and fix it with her. After several conversations with her about it already, you should still receive the box. Don't wait 

If you don't receive it and you think that she deceived you, which she didn't just cancel your order. No money is taken from your account on the presale until the light comes in and it shouldn't come in before Sunday night when I talk to her.

Either way you're safe.


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## Niles (Feb 1, 2009)

Ordered. Hopefully the box deal comes through, but either way it's a great deal.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Wait wait, let me understand this. She listened, found the light, researched it, upgraded it for us, put it on sale much lower than any other seller, who by the way is selling clones, then when we requested a "combo" with the battery box, threw it in for free?
> 
> Now after after a week of everything being great, there is a glitch that took away a $10 box?
> 
> ...


+1 Well said!

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

OldManBike said:


> And how is it that GJHS still has so little rep after the amazing work he's (she's?) done in this thread? Rep up.


Thank you

P.S. (he)


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

No worries. I placed my preorder just now, and I think I probably will not get the case. No big deal. I think they may have made a mistake offering a $12 item for free with a $28 item. It seems they might be cutting into their profits quite a bit. If they throw it in for free that would be amazing, but I doubt that this will happen. 

I was cursing myself mainly, because that deal was too good to be true and you have to jump on it while it's still active. That's slickdeals rule number #1. (Rule #2 is don't call the store, lol)

At $28 it's still an amazing deal and I would urge anyone who wants this light to buy it now before the presale expires. I think the price will rise to $35-$40 after the initial batch is sent out.

Also I paid the extra $3 for singapore post plus a tracking number. That free Netherlands shipping blows. The tracking number shows pre-advised for two weeks and I think it's on the slow boat to the Netherlands.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

varider said:


> I think they may have made a mistake offering a $12 item for free with a $28 item. It seems they might be cutting into their profits quite a bit. If they throw it in for free that would be amazing, but I doubt that this will happen.


Let's see. Even without the box, it's still very attractive deal anyway IMHO.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

OldManBike said:


> And how is it that GJHS still has so little rep after the amazing work he's (she's?) done in this thread? Rep up.


Definitely +1.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> Definitely +1.


Thank you


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

How much higher fV XM-L2 has compared to XML? It may make hard to stay in regulation for example with extension cable. If difference is significant I might actually find the XML version more practical. XM-L2 is not that bright without the amperage. Makes me wonder would those XML ones be available any longer.

My gen 2 version did not stay in regulation at all with its original battery pack. The 2 cell pack I mostly stayed there for 50 minutes, that pack would not work too well with any higher vf.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

GJHS, there is always someone who doesn't feel it right whatever you do. I understand how someone can feel if all of sudden deal is gone, but this is happening all the time elsewere. Dora is doing very well, but she has budget with some limits I would say.

Can you compare your sample with bhocewar's one posted at Wallbuys -> HERE? If it has oring under the mount then it has to be geniue for shure, I think. None later version that I know haven't had that ring.


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## Ottoreni (Jan 27, 2004)

OldManBike said:


> Yeah, it's outrageous! How dare they sell a nice-quality light, bend over backwards to confirm the quality, charge us $40 bucks shipped, and not include a battery box. It's a total rip-off! I blame GJHS for not spending enough time communicating with Gearbest and posting here.
> 
> Stop whining. It's a deal. You're not a victim.


Wow, who took a piss in your porridge?

You better read over my response.

Then address what I said.

Leave all the bitterness in your head!

Cheers!


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## Ottoreni (Jan 27, 2004)

GJHS said:


> Wait wait, let me understand this. She listened, found the light, researched it, upgraded it for us, put it on sale much lower than any other seller, who by the way is selling clones, then when we requested a "combo" with the battery box, threw it in for free?
> 
> Now after after a week of everything being great, there is a glitch that took away a $10 box?
> 
> ...


Wait, wait, let me clarify myself.

First I appreciate what you have done with this light. Please do not get me wrong. I hope everything turns out for the best.

My comment is based on my past experience dealing with the far east.

Quick synopsis.

In the past 15 plus years dealing with products from that area, when situations go soar, it seems to follow the same formula.

Manufacturer/ seller starts off super nice, understand everything perfectly.

Then somehow, mysteriously, the language becomes an issue and misunderstandings begin to occur. This language thing starts to become an issue/excuse, that it never was in the WEEKS prior.

I hope I am wrong.

Regardless, you have done a great job here and it is commendable. Thank you!

Hoping for the best!


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

XCJagge said:


> How much higher fV XM-L2 has compared to XML? It may make hard to stay in regulation for example with extension cable. If difference is significant I might actually find the XML version more practical. XM-L2 is not that bright without the amperage. Makes me wonder would those XML ones be available any longer.
> 
> My gen 2 version did not stay in regulation at all with its original battery pack. The 2 cell pack I mostly stayed there for 50 minutes, that pack would not work too well with any higher vf.


The difference is not very big, but it can count if you have several leds in series Then the driver has to work harder to raise the voltage to amount needed at certain current.

For staying in regulation for longer time I would suggest you to get 18650 cells with higher voltage curve like Sanyo or alternatively 4.35V cells if you can charge them so high. LG18650 D1 for example has one of the highest curves in that class.

Next very important thing is cable and connector. At higher currents there can be significant voltage drop on thin wires. Tipical Magicshine connectors were designed for single led light MJ-880 with low current. The connectors can have significan resistance too. Taking all this into account it can lead into premature end of regulation. I've experienced 0.5V drop or even more on 6x XM-L led light getting red status light already at first 1/4 of capacity.

Since this Yindig has short cable I would not change it (resistance is dependable on thicknes (AWG) and lenght of wire x2 - to the light and back), but would consider having thicker one down to the battery pack. On particular 6x XM-L I'll also change the connector.

I hope you got the point. Every bit can count ....  The first thing to do is getting good battery cells. Stock battery packs are often quite poor with big voltage drop.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Having previous experience on three lights and a few DashCams with GearBest and I truly believe everything will be great and Dora did a lot more than any other seller so far..

The only issue here is a free gift that was never part of the deal in the first place, was later included and now is gone three days early. The speculation as to why it is no longer shown is now unnecessarily souring the deal. Save final judgement for when I find out why. I think it's because originally the presale was supposed to end today and it's a date glitch.

Keep in mind, that GearBest has some risk in this too. If people get cheap crap, goodbye GearBest. So far their custom XT40 was great and sold well here and so was their custom X3. With both, people said they wouldn't be good, Chinese sellers, clones etc etc. yet they were wrong. 

I have to end by saying that the Yinding sample they sent is a sweet light battery box or not.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

ledoman said:


> Can you compare your sample with bhocewar's one posted at Wallbuys -> HERE? If it has oring under the mount then it has to be geniue for shure, I think. None later version that I know haven't had that ring.


Thank you

Ok I disassembled the mount and yes there are two O rings, a black one between the body and the mount and a red one between the screw and the mount.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Ottoreni said:


> Wait, wait, let me clarify myself.
> 
> First I appreciate what you have done with this light. Please do not get me wrong. I hope everything turns out for the best.
> 
> ...


Yes, I can agree to all that you said but for the most part we just have to sit back and see how everything goes. As for the battery box going away, that might have been an advertising mistake from the beginning as it wasn't part of the original deal that was being worked on by GJHS. I figure that anyone that gets the box can count themselves lucky.

Now as to whether or not all of the rest of the deal works out you will just have to wait to see how it all plays out. I'm not going to buy one myself but if I were I would order it now. I figure in the future this lamp might very well go away without warning. I would look at it as a group buy and that means you buy it while it's still being offered. The sooner you jump on it the better.

Another thing to factor in; How long it will take to receive these is another question. I see no date promised on just when these will start to ship. Hopefully the people who pre-ordered will get theirs BEFORE the Chinese New Year thing comes around.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Ordered one to play with, and if the battery box shows up as well- bonus.

I was going to wait until KD listed a neutral white 10-step driver, but this price is peanuts if the light is decently made. Thanks GJHS for all the hard work.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

GJHS said:


> Thank you
> 
> Ok I disassembled the mount and yes there are two O rings, a black one between the body and the mount and a red one between the screw and the mount.


Then we are on very good path to receive the geniue product. Nice feeling


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Based on the pics that I saw, it is the same as the original Yinding, but with newer driver. 
Beside the gasket, dimpled lenses, MS connector...you can also confirm the originality by looking the cable seal on the body. 
You will find out, that original Yinding has a much nicer seal.

GJHS
You should also check the voltage when the indicator light goes from green to red, and when it start to flash. 
I had a few not original YD that the indicator had gone red after 15min running on high, but the battery was still almost full.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

bhocewar said:


> GJHS
> You should also check the voltage when the indicator light goes from green to red, and when it start to flash.
> I had a few not original YD that the indicator had gone red after 15min running on high, but the battery was still almost full.


I can do a run test, no problem.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

ledoman said:


> Next very important thing is cable and connector. At higher currents there can be significant voltage drop on thin wires. Tipical Magicshine connectors were designed for single led light MJ-880 with low current. The connectors can have significan resistance too. Taking all this into account it can lead into premature end of regulation. I've experienced 0.5V drop or even more on 6x XM-L led light getting red status light already at first 1/4 of capacity.


I wonder how much of a factor (in terms of resistance) the connector itself is. I remember reading a long time ago in the RC car world that people switched to the Dean connectors over tamiya connectors because they had very low resistance. That's a fuzzy memory though.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

varider said:


> I wonder how much of a factor (in terms of resistance) the connector itself is. I remember reading a long time ago in the RC car world that people switched to the Dean connectors over tamiya connectors because they had very low resistance. That's a fuzzy memory though.


You are correct. I was advised to use Dean connectors with 6x XM-L ligts which had regulated driver and current runt as high as 6A as voltage went down on battery pack. This resulted in driver fall back to low mode prematurely. As I've been told there at DX forum (page 20, posted by desolder) the resistance can be around 100mOhm or more.
The resistance has much influence on higher currents. It's not so important on low modes, shurely it is on high, that's why you can get red status light to soon. Of course it depends on battery cells too.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok Guys, I sent Dora an email so she would get it Monday. She must have checked her email and wrote me. She was going to fix the free box offer and then realized her boss canceled the offer last night. He must have looked at the offer, thought it was too low and cancelled it. I'm guessing with the other sellers, listing the Yinding clones for $50, she gave us a really good price, that with the free box was too low. Needless to say she may be in trouble.

To make up for the mistake, Dora gave me a coupon to use for those who didn't get the box and who still want to buy. The coupon is "Yinding"

Light Head (Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4-Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp (4 x 18650 Battery Pack)-28.52 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com) $24.02

Complete Set with Battery (Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery Pack )-41.42 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com) $38.04.

The Battery Box seperate (Solarstorm New 2S2P 8.4V 2000mAh Dual Water-resistant 4 x 18650 External Battery Pack for Bicycle Light Digital Device-12.58 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com) use coupon New2S2P to get it for $9.99.

If you want the light, buy NOW before the Coupon ends, maybe on their Monday morning, I'm not sure when. You will have to buy before the XM-L2 sample comes and is reviewed. I believe you will also have to cancel your order and repurchase if you already bought it. If you have the free box already and use the coupon you will lose the free box.

Monday morning, I will do my best to confirm with her that everything on the outside is still right before the lights are sent out. I should get the sample light after Christmas, will disassemble it that same day and get beam shots out fast. Oh and Ledoman will also get a sample so you have two reviews and more in depth current draw readings. I can do no more.

Ok do I deserve some Rep Up now? :thumbsup:


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## Niles (Feb 1, 2009)

None of that is your fault. Rep+1.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Niles said:


> None of that is your fault. Rep+1.


Thank you


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

Fair enough, no box but lower price 

The best that everyone could do, great work!


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

The light is all you really want, the box, while nice, doesn't even have the right connection for this light.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

TiGeo said:


> The light is all you really want, the box, while nice, doesn't even have the right connection for this light.


Ha! Good catch! Funny, I remember seeing the male end and yes it looked like a standard MS type. The box was with a SStorm type female plug. Somehow I didn't make the connection. That said it would still work but wouldn't be a perfect match. Maybe that's why they decided to cancel the box.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

These connectors will work. You can make them better with a nice tight water-resistant fit by using some Heat-shrink tubing over them. You place it so it fits mainly on the female end, and just covers the ringed portion on the MS- style male then shrink it. When you separate them there's a satisfying "pop".p

I did that with the [email protected] male connector on the KD clone.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Last night I rode with that battery box combined with MJ-880 clone and it is just fine. Maybe not the best, but it works and stays connected. It fits pretty tight.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Well if you you think about it, the earliest 30 or 40 preorders didn't get the box. The next 30 got the box. Then they removed it. A few of us then placed an order. Then they added a coupon code. Not very consistent, is it?

It's a preorder, we should all be getting the same thing at the same price. They should adjust the price for those who agreed to pay more. Especially since they haven't processed the payment yet.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

That coupon code for the battery pack has been around for about a month. It's right on their "Gadget Deals" page or whatever it's called. 

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

varider said:


> Well if you you think about it, the earliest 30 or 40 preorders didn't get the box. The next 30 got the box. Then they removed it. A few of us then placed an order. Then they added a coupon code. Not very consistent, is it?
> 
> It's a preorder, we should all be getting the same thing at the same price. They should adjust the price for those who agreed to pay more. Especially since they haven't processed the payment yet.


The coupon is there for Everyone to use, new and old.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

OK, KD has now posted a driver board that includes XML-2 U2 neutral emitters.
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023807


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## Ottoreni (Jan 27, 2004)

varider said:


> Well if you you think about it, the earliest 30 or 40 preorders didn't get the box. The next 30 got the box. Then they removed it. A few of us then placed an order. Then they added a coupon code. Not very consistent, is it?
> 
> It's a preorder, we should all be getting the same thing at the same price. They should adjust the price for those who agreed to pay more. Especially since they haven't processed the payment yet.


This would be the common sense approach, but this has got to be the strangest and most inconsistent pre-order I have ever been a part of.

I will repeat the mindset that has been stated on this thread .... "you are getting a great deal, so be happy with whatever you get"

I don't necessarily agree with this logic, but I feel I am the minority on this thread.

Also another unpopular notion I have, is my opinion of Dora. He latest reasoning for the changes in the pre-order package are because of her "boss". One of the oldest sales tactics. Gives the impression that she is the "good person", working for you, but the "evil" unseen boss is the one who is spoiling everything.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

This is a flipping cheap ass light people...lord....


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## circusubet (Aug 5, 2006)

Hello GJHS,

A professional lurker here....As most others have said, thanks plus rep. A quick question. I have ordered light-battery, box and light head. I must have missed the coupons. Do you think I can go back into the orders, insert the coupons? Cancel orders and reorder with coupons? I realize that you are not working for the site, I thought you might have some insight. If not, I will just leave orders as they are. Great deals anyway. Thanks again.

Thx,
John

P.S. Cat, you still rock!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ottoreni said:


> Also another unpopular notion I have, is my opinion of Dora. He latest reasoning for the changes in the pre-order package are because of her "boss". One of the oldest sales tactics. Gives the impression that she is the "good person", working for you, but the "evil" unseen boss is the one who is spoiling everything.


I keep trying to see what you're saying. What's her negative motive to offer a coupon, now making it even cheaper for everyone? She already priced it really low, considering that the other sellers are selling Yinding clones for $50 and she is the only one selling the sought after original. The only thing I can come up with is to keep people happy by allowing everyone new and old to get it even cheaper because of her mistake with the free box and get more sales.

I've heard on this forum, time after time that "if a seller would only listen and build what we want". She found a light everyone wanted, no one else had and even upgraded it for us. I think she did enough and now you can buy it for $24. You want a quality light, she wants to sell a bunch. I just don't see a problem.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

circusubet said:


> Hello GJHS,
> 
> A professional lurker here....As most others have said, thanks plus rep. A quick question. I have ordered light-battery, box and light head. I must have missed the coupons. Do you think I can go back into the orders, insert the coupons? Cancel orders and reorder with coupons? I realize that you are not working for the site, I thought you might have some insight. If not, I will just leave orders as they are. Great deals anyway. Thanks again.
> 
> ...


I don't know how it works, I think just cancel your order and reorder it with the coupon. Everybody should use the coupon


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## circusubet (Aug 5, 2006)

As I said myself in my post,"Great deals anyway. Thanks again."

Thx
John


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

Placed an order for 2x lights heads only, at $24.02 you cant go wrong! Great work GJHS


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

TiGeo said:


> The light is all you really want, the box, while nice, doesn't even have the right connection for this light.


So, if I snagged just the light head, where's the best (least hassle/inexpensive) place to get a decent "battery carrying container"? I don't actually need waterproof, I live in the AZ desert, and besides, night riding in the wet sounds like maybe the worst thing on earth.

Then, I assume HunkLee for some real batteries?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Yep, Hunk Lee sells good batteries, and he can wire them up into protected packs with connectors but you need to waterproof them.


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

I'm in two minds at the moment, I'm thinking of either going the hunk lee route or mtb revolution

Xeccon Panasonic 2-cell 3400mAh Ultimate Li-ion Battery

I just need to contact them to find out what type of connector their batteries come with, has anyone asked hunk lee for connectors to suit the yinding light? Is the connector on the yinding a magic shine connector or are those the square ones?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I wouldn't hesitate to use the Solar Storm battery box. I think you'll find it is sufficient for your needs. 

-Garry


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Ottoreni said:


> This would be the common sense approach, but this has got to be the strangest and most inconsistent pre-order I have ever been a part of.
> 
> *I will repeat the mindset that has been stated on this thread .... "you are getting a great deal, so be happy with whatever you get"*
> 
> ...


First, I want to thank you for your post. It's okay to disagree and to point out questionable things. This is what helps keep the forum clean, "great honest to the point thinking". When dealing with the Chinese it is best to keep one hand in the cookie jar and one hand out. From time to time it's important to be reminded of that fact as long as you keep all the facts in their proper perspective.

To me it isn't surprising that there would be some limits on what was offered. The good part is; _"No one is forcing anyone to take the offer_". If you don't like what you see you stay away. To the people who bought in and now feel cheated; _If you didn't get the battery box you can always write the website and complain about it later_. As long as you can prove you ordered during the "preorder" time it wouldn't surprise me if the company just sends you a free battery box. A word of advice though, _"If you do write and complain, be very, very polite in your wording"_. Politeness is very important to the Chinese. Show respect and you will generally receive respect.

Below is an example of an e-mail I would write if I felt I didn't get what I expected:



> To whom it may concern: On ( date ) I ordered the ( your order # ) as part of a presale offer. This offer was supposed to include a battery box as part of the presale offer ( box order # ) or so it was my understanding. I did not receive the box with my order. I did receive the lamp and I am very pleased with it. I have already purchased batteries to go with the box but I have no box. Could you please send me the battery box and correct this mistake? Thank you very much in advance. Have a happy Chinese New Year! Sincerely, XXXXXX


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Nevermind


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Ivan87 said:


> I'm in two minds at the moment, I'm thinking of either going the hunk lee route or mtb revolution
> 
> Xeccon Panasonic 2-cell 3400mAh Ultimate Li-ion Battery
> 
> I just need to contact them to find out what type of connector their batteries come with, has anyone asked hunk lee for connectors to suit the yinding light? Is the connector on the yinding a magic shine connector or are those the square ones?


I think they switched everything to the square connector, but they might come with an adapter to the magicshine style round connector. They have a representative that monitors this forum, and he seems very helpful. He may be able to add one to your order for free or a small fee. I never understood why those guys have so few pictures of their batteries. It's pathetic. You can't tell what you are getting.

Can you drive this light with a 2-cell battery?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

What would they win if they too start sending out cheap copies? A few sales to be ignored after? After customizing three successful lights, they have a good reputation and good prices and that will win much more. Yet other Chinese sellers have eluded that formula so what do I know

That fudging box has turned this into quite a spin. Before $28 for the Yinding was a great deal, Thank you. Now I'm not getting a free box, they deceived me, not fair. The difference between the box and the coupon is $6 dollars, the difference without coupon and box is $10. Even at $38, it's much cheaper than what people payed in the past for any form of the Yinding, original or clone.

I regret getting involved now, this has been quite a project. Thank you for those who sent Rep points my way and Thanked me


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

GJHS said:


> I regret getting involved now, this has been quite a project.


That makes me sad. I'm really appreciative of the work you did, and I repped you for it. I've been lurking here for months trying to decide what light setup to go with for as little scratch as possible.

The only reason I haven't pulled the trigger on these yet is determining how much I can get away with spending literally days before Christmas.

Do I do the no-hassle package deal, knowing the batteries are mediocre but workable and only have to answer to the CFO for $42,
Or light only+box for about 36, but still have to justify batteries?

first world problems, I know!

Either way, lots of people here appreciate it.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

GJHS:

Why would Fasttech send out lesser quality lights? Does anyone have an answer to that? All we know is that they starting doing it. 

I hope I didn't come across as complaining. I'm very happy with what I'm going to get, I was just pointing out that they have been somewhat inconsistent. I think it's OK to do that. Gearbest is a company after all, and there should be some standards involved. They are not our buddies. 

I also appreciate what you have done and gave you positive rep points. I tried to give some more, but the system wouldn't let me.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Thank you, use the coupon "Yinding" either way the set is $38 and the light head is $24. If you don't have any battery, go with the set. Even on my Gen 2 Yinding from last year the battery is going strong and lasts 2.5hrs on high. So at least it will give you time to get another one later when the boss allows or it doesn't work anymore.


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## csermonet (Feb 2, 2009)

I really appreciate the work that has been been put in on this project, and I thank all those involved. I have been wanting to pull the trigger on a cheap Chinese light and this thread made me pull the trigger on this particular light. The $24 with coupon for light head only is just too good of a deal to pass up. Does anyone have any suggestion for a quality battery and charger? I know the battery is one of the most important parts so I would prefer a quality one, and I know a proper charger is pretty important to keep your batteries healthy so any suggestions are welcome. Thanks everyone! Particularly GJHS. Rep spread. Don't let the people criticizing get you down, it's not like anyone is holding a gun to their head to buy a $25 light. At the end of the day its a $25 light, if someone has a problem with that, perhaps mountain biking isn't the right hobby for them.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

GJHS has a good relationship with Dora with quality involved in the product. We get a good benefit from your effort.
But it is still a negotiation and you may want to structure the next one to hold on to your bargaining power until you can receive and evaluate a product. 
Your involvement is what makes it worth looking at. Even if it's on the Gearbest site I wouldn't preorder or order until you mention the product here.
Once a bunch of orders start coming in Dora's boss is less likely to let her work out the deal you want.
So I would hold off on a thread until you get things how you want them.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

eb1888 said:


> GJHS has a good relationship with Dora with quality involved in the product. We get a good benefit from your effort.
> But it is still a negotiation and you may want to structure the next one to hold on to your bargaining power until you can receive and evaluate a product.
> Your involvement is what makes it worth looking at. Even if it's on the Gearbest site I wouldn't preorder or order until you mention the product here.
> Once a bunch of orders start coming in Dora's boss is less likely to let her work out the deal you want.
> So I would hold off on a thread until you get things how you want them.


You know eb that's the problem right there. This was set up from day one to be a wait till its approved deal. I checked through photos and wouldn't post a word until I knew. Dora asked me originally not post until I checked. Then GB put an order in for XM-L2 and at that point, they put it up for presale. I understand the thinking: we payed to make these, we are putting them up for sale and not waiting, business is business.

I truly believe that Dora had good intentions to make it cheap and offer the box for free to boost sales. I also believe the light will be quality, if not they will screw themselves. The coupon code was the only thing that was on hold until I reviewed it. After the box mistake, she had no choice except to release it.

I wish I could express how much Dora did to even get this light. I asked her to look for this back in October.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Thank you, use the coupon "Yinding" either way the set is $38 and the light head is $24. If you don't have any battery, go with the set. Even on my Gen 2 Yinding from last year the battery is going strong and lasts 2.5hrs on high. So at least it will give you time to get another one later when the boss allows or it doesn't work anymore.


And done. I actually had a forgotten balance of $22 in my PayPal, so they 'looked' even cheaper. LoL.

Thanks again man!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

You're Welcome! Here is the coupon again in case it got mixed in this long thread or someone didn't see it. Coupon "Yinding"

Light Head (Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4-Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp (4 x 18650 Battery Pack)-28.52 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com) $24.02

Complete Set with Battery (Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery Pack )-41.42 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com) $38.04.

The Battery Box seperate (Solarstorm New 2S2P 8.4V 2000mAh Dual Water-resistant 4 x 18650 External Battery Pack for Bicycle Light Digital Device-12.58 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com) use coupon New2S2P to get it for $9.99.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

varider said:


> GJHS:
> 
> Why would Fasttech send out lesser quality lights? Does anyone have an answer to that? All we know is that they starting doing it.
> 
> ...


Why these sellers do it is a great mystery. FastTech did it when sales were at their peak. Chinese sellers are like women: can't figure them out. Sorry Ladies

Thank you Varider, I appreciate it.


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## eggdog (Nov 17, 2010)

The Xeccon batteries do come with a adapter cable that will fit these lights. An yes you can power this light with a 2 cell battery.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

GJHS said:


> You know eb that's the problem right there. This was set up from day one to be a wait till its approved deal. I checked through photos and wouldn't post a word until I knew. Dora asked me originally not post until I checked. Then GB put an order in for XM-L2 and at that point, they put it up for presale. I understand the thinking: we payed to make these, we are putting them up for sale and not waiting, business is business.
> 
> I truly believe that Dora had good intentions to make it cheap and offer the box for free to boost sales. I also believe the light will be quality, if not they will screw themselves. The coupon code was the only thing that was on hold until I reviewed it. After the box mistake, she had no choice except to release it.
> 
> I wish I could express how much Dora did to even get this light. I asked her to look for this back in October.


A lota work on your part. Thank you.
I don't think you should worry too much about them posting for resale before you get a chance to review and test a unit. Most here who ordered are responding to your posts about it and wouldn't have done anything without them.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Something I just noticed and for the life of me I don't know why I didn't notice it before; The Gearbest ad for the Yinding is listing the output for the lamp at 900 lumen. Now I don't know if this is a mistake in the ad or just honesty on their part. I would like to think that most of the Duo clones are over 1000 lumen. That said I could be wrong about that and maybe they are all 900 lumen. 

I should have the KD Duo clone version hopefully sometime next week. First thing I'll do is compare it to my Gloworm X2 (version "2") ( with XM-L U2 ) That version of the X2 was somewhere in the range of 1200 "real" lumen so I'll be using that as my lumen gauge. Adding to that I'll do a 5 meter lux comparison as well.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Great coupon code...light for $24? Set for $38? Great deal either way. Use it as is with one of your current batteries, order a Hunk-Lee special, or a nicer unit from Action and you have a winner. Hell, the battery that came with my Yinding works fine for 2+ hours.


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## jokipea (Apr 14, 2009)

Just bought the complete set but still itching to buy a single light unit on it's own. Will I make up my mind before it's too late to use coupon?

Anyway thanks GJHS.


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## enFuego (Aug 1, 2007)

Yep, code works as of 5 min ago!


jokipea said:


> Just bought the complete set but still itching to buy a single light unit on it's own. Will I make up my mind before it's too late to use coupon?
> 
> Anyway thanks GJHS.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

garrybunk said:


> I wouldn't hesitate to use the Solar Storm battery box. I think you'll find it is sufficient for your needs.
> 
> -Garry


Maybe for those who want one-stop shopping, can someone suggest a good deal on a charger and 4 decent batteries from Gearbest as well? Be good to support them, but I never believe any of the battery capacity claims on Chinese rebadged lights until someone has verified them.

I don't see any authentic Panasonic 18650b or Sanyo 18650 batteries on their site, but that's what I use for my battery packs.

Here is a link to a nice pack from ActionLED
Action LED Lights - Brilliant lighting for all your biking & outdoor sporting activities.

Oh, and thanks again GJHS for setting this deal up, and for all the hard work.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Maybe for those who want one-stop shopping, can someone suggest a good deal on a charger and 4 decent batteries from Gearbest as well? Be good to support them, but I never believe any of the battery capacity claims on Chinese rebadged lights until someone has verified them.
> 
> I don't see any authentic Panasonic 18650b or Sanyo 18650 batteries on their site, but that's what I use for my battery packs.
> 
> ...


I hesitantly say I can ask. Dora is open to ideas and meeting our needs, if they sell. Obviously she isn't going order 200 items to sell 20.

We were trying to find a good nuetral led light, since quite a few had asked and Yinding refused unless she ordered 500. We're talking about maybe the SolarStorm X2 since the $35 custom XM-L2 X3 she just had made by SolarStorm was a well made success. I think I'm going to take a break for a bit after this one. Somehow the words Free and Box together make me cringe a little.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> Something I just noticed and for the life of me I don't know why I didn't notice it before; The Gearbest ad for the Yinding is listing the output for the lamp at 900 lumen. Now I don't know if this is a mistake in the ad or just honesty on their part. I would like to think that most of the Duo clones are over 1000 lumen. That said I could be wrong about that and maybe they are all 900 lumen.


I think they used what was on the box.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

GearBest sells Keeppower batteries which use quality name brand cells (Panasonics, Sanyos, Samsungs) and they use quality protection circuits. I would avoid ordering batteries from overseas if possible though due to the troubles shipping them and the longer wait. 

Charger? I'd have to look later. 

And nobody brought this up, but GearBests ordering system doesn't allow two coupons to be entered in a single order. So if you need to use two, place two separate orders. 

-Garry


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Maybe for those who want one-stop shopping, can someone suggest a good deal on a charger and 4 decent batteries from Gearbest as well? Be good to support them, but I never believe any of the battery capacity claims on Chinese rebadged lights until someone has verified them.
> 
> I don't see any authentic Panasonic 18650b or Sanyo 18650 batteries on their site, but that's what I use for my battery packs.
> 
> ...


A couple days ago I was looking at the GB site and I noticed that they ask a lot for their single 18650 cells. Way too much for a Chinese website. I think your best bet is either Fasttech or Kaidomain but if you order batteries from China be smart and order the batteries separate of anything else you might want. That's because any order shipped with batteries will be delayed. With that in mind be prepared to wait maybe 6 weeks for the batteries to arrive. Batteries just take longer due to the shipping restrictions.


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## hernluis (Nov 16, 2008)

just to clarify, this is a simple three mode light correct? not user adjustable regarding brightness? did any one find out if it has overheating protection? just about to place order for light head.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

hernluis said:


> did any one find out if it has overheating protection? just about to place order for light head.


On the pictures of the circuit I can see some elements which implys there might be overheating protection. If you would read the thread you would already now it - page 7.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

hernluis said:


> just to clarify, this is a simple three mode light correct? not user adjustable regarding brightness? did any one find out if it has overheating protection? just about to place order for light head.


This is why I was hoping the KD board with the programmable levels and neutral LEDs will work in this light. I plan to try the upgrade.

As far as the battery question, no need to bother Dora. I was just hoping someone can recommend a charger and batteries for the case from Gearbest rather than Hunk Lee or Fasttech, since they were so helpful.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I'm looking forward to seeing that mod.

If there is interest, I will ask. At least maybe a deal on the Xtar VP2, which is a great charger.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

ledoman said:


> If you would read the thread you would already now it - page 7.


Ya, come on the thread is only a page or two :lol:

I will ask tonight for confirmation


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## upstateSC-rider (Dec 25, 2003)

garrybunk said:


> And nobody brought this up, but GearBests ordering system doesn't allow two coupons to be entered in a single order. So if you need to use two, place two separate orders.
> 
> -Garry


I applied the discounts to both of the lights and SS battery boxes I just bought and the coupons worked fine for 2 of each, couldn't do them at the same time, though...It said pre-orders had to be done alone.

Funny thing though, I had an LED flashlight in my cart when I applied the coupon to the battery boxes and the price went up the equivalent amount of my coupon savings as soon as I hit apply. Didn't get it anyway as I was just looking at the specs but still weird.

Thanks again GJ, you'll be flying up the climbs with all of that leg work you've done. :thumbsup:


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

preoder doubled in 48Hrs, Dora's boss should be happy about it

Can we request Dora to give out free cases for those who used the coupon code?
Make us the preoder Group 5 LOL


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Cat-man-do said:


> I should have the KD Duo clone version hopefully sometime next week. First thing I'll do is compare it to my Gloworm X2 (version "2") ( with XM-L U2 ) That version of the X2 was somewhere in the range of 1200 "real" lumen so I'll be using that as my lumen gauge. Adding to that I'll do a 5 meter lux comparison as well.


Cat, I'm shure you are very skilled, but just want to point out luxmeter would not give you comparable lumen figures as you probably don't have equal optics in front of leds. Lux reading gives you max brightnes at certain point. Much more comparable would be ceiling bounce mettering which take into account amount of light get bounced. Still not exact but much better aproximation about lumens (which is the amount of light, not the brightness value).


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

In addition, I'd appreciate to see the luxmeter readings at 1 meter distance, as it's de facto standard for light reviews.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Maybe for those who want one-stop shopping, can someone suggest a good deal on a charger and 4 decent batteries from Gearbest as well?


As for 4-cells chargers, I see decent Nitecore and Xtar models there:
NITECORE Intellicharger i4 Smart Charger for Battery-20.21 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
Xtar XP4 4 Slots LED Indicator Battery Charger with USB Output (US Adapter)-32.87 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

ledoman said:


> Cat, I'm shure you are very skilled, but just want to point out luxmeter would not give you comparable lumen figures as you probably don't have equal optics in front of leds. Lux reading gives you max brightnes at certain point. Much more comparable would be ceiling bounce mettering which take into account amount of light get bounced. Still not exact but much better aproximation about lumens (which is the amount of light, not the brightness value).


Thanks ledoman. My observations are that when it comes to comparing things like cheap Chinese lighting, "All things are never equal". That said the best you can do is to compare "similar" products. The method I use in my testing is just done to give me a "ballpark" estimate of relative brightness between two ( or more ) similar lamps that display similar beam patterns. I understand fully that no two lamps have the exact beam pattern or optics. This said the intention is just to confirm what my eyes are telling me, that one is indeed brighter than the other.

When I do the test I set the lamps up in my house and project the light down a narrow hallway roughly 5 meters. I like this distance because this gives the light beam a chance to expand thus lowering the reading. There is also light bouncing off the walls and ceiling so some of that might come into play. The meter I am using is only a lux meter app for a smart phone, it is not a high grade lux meter able to measure in one lux increments. At best it can measure in 10 lux increments.

When it comes to lux readings I never compare reflector lamps to optic lamps because reflector lamps simply have more of a hot spot and will always read higher even if the optic lamp has more lumen output. This is why I only compare products that project light in a similar fashion. Since comparing a lux output at one meter requires a much more accurate meter to measure the more intense beam pattern I see no point in doing that. Doing it my way I feel I have a basic ballpark idea of what the lamp is doing. Lux meters can't give you a lumen reading but they can give you a basic idea of relative brightness if you add a little distance and compare only like products.

_edit : In summary, what other people make of my approach to testing lamp output is their own opinion and that's fine with me. From my perspective the method I use works and seems to make better sense. To each their own. :thumbsup:_


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Ofroad'bent said:


> This is why I was hoping the KD board with the programmable levels and neutral LEDs will work in this light. I plan to try the upgrade.
> 
> *As far as the battery question, no need to bother Dora. I was just hoping someone can recommend a charger and batteries for the case from Gearbest rather than Hunk Lee or Fasttech, since they were so helpful.*


Well, if you really insist on buying those from GB I guess I would go with the Keeppower 3200's. These look like they might be the new Panasonic hybrid cells that can supply higher discharge current. Not sure about that though.

As for a charger I would go with this one. I like the digital read out. If I were buying I would buy two of these because I'd rather have two 2-bay models than one 4-bay model. If one goes up you still have the other. Always pays to have a back-up plan. If you do buy a charger with digital read out be sure to run those with a surge protector. One good power line voltage surge and those puppies could be toast ( figurative speaking ).


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

While we are at it, does Gearbest sell 15/25 degree lens too?

Or it looks like Fasttech has them for cheaper pack of 5


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I always wondered what the led's with high CRI (color rendering index) would look like. It seems that would be ideal for mountain biking. If we can get a custom board made I would like to try those out.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> Well, if you really insist on buying those from GB I guess I would go with the Keeppower 3200's. These look like they might be the new Panasonic hybrid cells that can supply higher discharge current. Not sure about that though.
> 
> As for a charger I would go with this one. I like the digital read out. If I were buying I would buy two of these because I'd rather have two 2-bay models than one 4-bay model. If one goes up you still have the other. Always pays to have a back-up plan. If you do buy a charger with digital read out be sure to run those with a surge protector. One good power line voltage surge and those puppies could be toast ( figurative speaking ).


I agree with you, except I was thinking the Xtar Vp2. In your experience is the Nitecore better? I've only heard good things about the Vp2.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

AFAIK, Xtar products are bit better. Vp2 is more versatile (3 different currents) and has also 4.35V (nominal 3.8V) charging option which can help you charge cells like some Sanyo, LG,.. with higher voltage curve. See the review -> HERE. If you have problem with premature red signaling light this can help a bit. Of course main cause of voltage drop won't go away.
Nitecore UM20 is more like D2 except it is powered by USB wich has to be 2A in order to charge the cells at 1A.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Cat-man-do said:


> ....
> When I do the test I set the lamps up in my house and project the light down a narrow hallway roughly 5 meters. I like this distance because this gives the light beam a chance to expand thus lowering the reading. There is also light bouncing off the walls and ceiling so some of that might come into play.


I didn't know that (don't remember you have explained it before). In this case this is OK to me, too. The key point I see it here is wall bouncing light. Then you get much more comparable results.

It is just sometimes people mixing lumens with lux and think higher lux reading is same as high lumens. It is good to clear that out to the audience.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

GJHS said:


> I agree with you, except I was thinking the Xtar Vp2. In your experience is the Nitecore better? I've only heard good things about the Vp2.


Actually I wouldn't be able to say one way or another. Both brand names are well known. Obviously the Nitecore is half the price and not as nice looking as the XTAR. Regardless both seem to offer similar features. I would be happy with either as long as they work. Right now the only cell chargers I own are the cheap ( ~ $6 ) D/X 2-bay chargers of which I've never had any problems and yes I've checked with a multimeter and they charge fine. As long as both bays have a separate charging loop I'm good with whatever works. Like I said before though, can't hurt to have two in case one fails and yes cheap electronics can fail. I've had one Ultrafire charger fail and one single bay 26650 Trustfire charger fail. This is why I've learned it is never a good idea to leave batteries charging unattended.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

OK guys here's an update:

You obviously bought way more than she ordered so a new batch is on the way to avoid any delays. She ordered one from the warehouse to be sent to her office and tonight we will check it. If all is good they will start shipping out along with my sample which I will disassemble and take photos of ASAP.

Something I didn't think about is colors. Should she list the other colors (Blue and Red) for the future? If you're reading this and thinking aww I would have wanted (fill in color), write me and I'll see if she can get it for you from the new batch.

I asked about a battery/charger combo deal and she said yes. I suggested the Protected Keeppower 3400s, which are Panasonics and the Xtar Vp2 as a combo. Between Xtar and Nitecore, the Nitecore D2 outputs .5A only, making for a slow charge on 18650 batteries while the Xtar has 3 ouputs up to 1A. If you want any combo deal, please post your interest here and if not the combo I suggested, say which combo from the GearBest site you prefer.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

^^^Whatever battery pack, please ensure that the connector is the correct type (MS one that snaps into place).


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## hernluis (Nov 16, 2008)

I think the new batch should be the neutral led with 10 stop brightness. thoughts?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

hernluis said:


> I think the new batch should be the neutral led with 10 stop brightness. thoughts?


:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

hernluis said:


> I think the new batch should be the neutral led with 10 stop brightness. thoughts?


I like the idea of colors, particularly if they offer the option of buying with a neutral white LED board. This would enable me to buy one with NW LED and keep it from being confused with my other lamps. Colors, big plus. Regardless, they need to keep to the brightest LED's and if they want to offer NW then just make that a secondary option.

If they offer a combo deal with the batteries/battery box/charger that would create a "one stop" shopping option. I think a lot of people would like that option. I also like the 10 level sub menu driver as an option but I need to know that the output on maximum is at least as high as the original.

If the Gearbest people can come through on half of this stuff they stand to make some money. People who ride at night like affordable options. This thread has only been around a couple weeks and already it has over 11K views. If 20% of those interested in the thread end up buying the lamp ( and or combo ), the GB website stands to make a little money, even at the discount price. Not to mention that it sets a new tone for people who might want more options when it comes to the most useable Chinese made lamps.

*@GJHS*, I don't know about anyone else but the GB people should be very happy with how you are going about all this. Put another way, "They owe you". :thumbsup:


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ofroad'bent said:


> :thumbsup::thumbsup:


I asked if after such that successful sale, will Yinding consider changing the emitters? Dora's answered that she asked Yesterday morning and they said they will considerate it, yet not confirm it now". The presale was bigger than the initial order and when previously asked about XM-L2 U2 3C build, Yinding insisted on a 500 minimum order. I'm hoping they will change their minds now and make a smaller batch.

Is there still interest in a Nuetral LED bar light? Dora also asked SolarStorm about the X2, since the X3 build she did came out really good. They are requesting a 200 minimum. I even thought of this one with a 5 step driver, except it seems to have reflectors








Let me know if you want me to pursue this more.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> *@GJHS*, I don't know about anyone else but the GB people should be very happy with how you are going about all this. Put another way, "They owe you". :thumbsup:


Ha ha ha you know after all this, I'm sure there are people who think I work for GearBest. I don't and I'm sorry to say I only speak Chinese when I'm drunk. Or is it Japanese? Dora was being very receptive to people's requests, built the 2 Solarstorms and :idea: Light Bulb! Of all the lights out there, I really wanted an Original Yinding and I knew I wasn't alone. I asked, she said yes and honestly didn't think she would find it. A few weeks later she writes that she found it, sends the link, looks good. A few weeks after that sends the pictures and then I knew that she truly found it. Of course there was some conversation on what to look for in there too.

I'm happy to help the forum, I've been here reading, learning and lightly posting for over a year now, it's a great group. I'm also glad to help Dora, I truly think she cares. She knows how I insist on quality, and I have bugged her, made her check and confirm things a ton of times. As for my reward, well I've gotten 4 lights to review, Dora knows my value and has thanked me a lot and yes, she owes me. Here on the forum, I have been very grateful for all the reputation points and appreciation that people have sent, keep it coming, I'm liking that green bar  I will say, that I won't breathe though, until I see that sample tonight.


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

Ideal for me would be having LED board with neutral leds for this light available somewhere. About like the KD kit but without the driver. So I could order board with leds and swap it by myself if I feel like trying neutral tint. Using screwdriver and soldering two wires is something even I might be able to do. I'd say there would be enough takers to make it profitable, plenty of these light out there already, most of them cool white xml t6 or u2.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

XCJagge said:


> Ideal for me would be having LED board with neutral leds for this light available somewhere. About like the KD kit but without the driver. So I could order board with leds and swap it by myself if I feel like trying neutral tint. Using screwdriver and soldering two wires is something even I might be able to do. I'd say there would be enough takers to make it profitable, plenty of these light out there already, most of them cool white xml t6 or u2.


That's a great idea, I will explore it, in addition to the KD deal. An XM-L2 U2 3C is my ideal choice, any others?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

GJHS, can you please ask Dora to make a query at manufacturer side what is the real capacity (mAh) of the battery pack included in a full accessory set? Some people over at BLF would like to know before they order one. I think it would help to the others too.

3C tint was the most wanted on the BLF forum. It is good balance between brightnes and tint. Me personaly I can reflow the leds, but the neutral white option on the PCB would be more easy for most people. Adding 1gr of thermal compound in the set would be nice feature too. It is because they would need to replace it along with led board.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

ledoman said:


> GJHS, can you please ask Dora to make a query at manufacturer side what is the real capacity (mAh) of the battery pack included in a full accessory set? Some people over at BLF would like to know before they order one. I think it would help to the others too.


I will ask, though you may just get the canned "supposed to be" answer. I have had the same experience as TiGeo with the 2013 Yinding battery. Mine still lasts 2.5+ on high and have had no complaints in a year. I can not test the GB Yinding package battery because the light head came fast and the battery is on the slow boat from China.

Usually the stock battery is a good option for someone who has nothing, doesn't ride a lot nor ride really long trips, pushing run times and will later buy better.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Well, the board with the driver is a whopping $12 with free shipping. Basically cheap enough to separate the board and LEDs from the driver and throw away the 10 step driver if you don't want to install it. 

KD's done enough to come up with this for us so fast. I'm not going to bug them to split up the driver/board deal.

I will let you know when I get the board/driver/Yinding if the swap works. It looks like a fast and easy upgrade- soldering the power wires vs the LED wires assuming I can get the old board detached.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Changing boards (leds with PCB) is simple as long as you know how to solder. You only should add/replace some thermal compound/grease since some sticks with the old one. 
Cutting away the KD one would be possible too, but there might be the problems with different thickness. You also neeed to take care not to cut the traces between the leds.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I didn't mean to cut up the board- I meant to cut the wires between LED board and driver, and toss the driver if you don't want it.
I'll correct the post.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

OK, but I think you would very likely need to trim the board in the middle in order to fit. It would be interesting anyway. Hopefuly the distances between the leds are the same.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

GJHS said:


> That's a great idea, I will explore it, in addition to the KD deal. An XM-L2 U2 3C is my ideal choice, any others?


A separate led board for the Yinding with XM-L2 U2 3C would be really, really great!


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## csermonet (Feb 2, 2009)

Can anyone recommend a battery and charger setup? I am going to be mounting the light head and battery on my helmet, will the aforementioned 4 cell 18650 battery box be uncomfortably heavy when loaded and mounted on the helmet?


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## csermonet (Feb 2, 2009)

Is this a battery of reasonable quality? I know it probably wouldn't last much longer than an hour, but my night rides are usually quick. And, they are cheap enough that I can afford to get two and keep the second one in my pack.

Action-LED-Lights ? MJ-6008 2200mAh Waterproof Battery


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## eggdog (Nov 17, 2010)

The Xeccon 2 cell battery would work fine for the helmet mount also.

Xeccon Panasonic 2-cell 3400mAh Ultimate Li-ion Battery



csermonet said:


> Is this a battery of reasonable quality? I know it probably wouldn't last much longer than an hour, but my night rides are usually quick. And, they are cheap enough that I can afford to get two and keep the second one in my pack.
> 
> Action-LED-Lights ? MJ-6008 2200mAh Waterproof Battery


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## csermonet (Feb 2, 2009)

eggdog said:


> The Xeccon 2 cell battery would work fine for the helmet mount also.
> 
> Xeccon Panasonic 2-cell 3400mAh Ultimate Li-ion Battery


I like the idea of 3400mAh on a 2 cell but it appears to only be available in Australia. Do they ship internationally? I'm looking at it from my phone so I may have missed something


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Dora sent photos of the new batch and things look great. So far I know dimpled lenses, front gasket, same Magicshine connectors, proper mount, same button click and driver interface with fade out and XM-L2.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

How do you tell the difference between a XML and a XM-L2 led?? The pictures from page 1 and this page looks the same to me.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

See:
url=http://flashlightwiki.com/Cree#XM-L
url=http://flashlightwiki.com/Cree#XM-L2


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

OK Guys I have an important question: How many of you would rather have a 3C tint? I need to know NOW, you have till Tuesday night to answer. I need to see if we can and need the total by tomorrow night.

Tell me if:
1. You already ordered and want the 3C in place of the 1A 
or 
2. You already ordered and want the 3C in addition to the 1A
or
3 You haven't order yet and want the 3C

For those unfamiliar, keep in mind a 3C tint won't be as bright as a 1A tint. It will also be a different color than 99.9% of the bike lights on the market so if you're running two you will see a difference. Neutrals are better for color rendition and putting more light on the ground when it's wet. Cool whites are brighter. So please do some homework first rather than just going with others preferences to make sure you get what you want.


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

I have 3x of the original 3B tint colours, would the 3C be a more peachy color or a more yellow color?, I wanted 2 lamps of the 1A's


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

Ofroad'bent said:


> It looks like a fast and easy upgrade - soldering the power wires vs the LED wires assuming I can get the old board detached.


I believe the KD LED board will not fit in without trimming and it may be too thick too. I have done enough such trimming in DIY light projects over the years, I prefer not to do it - too much work - I have several lights to be upgraded, not just one.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ivan87 said:


> I have 3x of the original 3B tint colours, would the 3C be a more peachy color or a more yellow color?, I wanted 2 lamps of the 1A's


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I would rather use full ANSI chart so you can also see the difference to the 1A. See: ANSI White - Flashlight Wiki










To be more correct about brightness. The bin in both cases is U2 so the lumens are the same, it is just a tint which is different. 1A is more paper white and 3C is more yellowish. Human eyes sees cool white light more bright because more light is reflected and less absorbed. Neutral white is much better to human eyes and gets you better 3 dimensional feeling.
If you compare 1A and 3C tints on the field, particulary in moisted surrounding, you'll see with 1A tint foliage more grey and washed out while with 3C you will see it more colorful.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

GJHS said:


> OK Guys I have an important question: How many of you would rather have a 3C tint? I need to know NOW, you have till Tuesday night to answer. I need to see if we can and need the total by tomorrow night.


I would rather have a 3C tint light than the 1A.

(I live i Sweden and we often ride in snowy or wet conditions. In the dry summer we don't need light...)


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Always in for more neutral!


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

In for 3C


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

In for 3C too for my lights. I ordered three, so those three could be 3C or 3B or any such neutral tint. Additional delay for making this happen would be OK by me.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

In for 3C. I already have one Yinding ordered from the first batch.

I was hoping the KD board was just a drop-in swap, without needing much trimming, but I have never seen an original Yinding yet. I'd get another if it was 3C, especially with the 10 step program, and I know several adventure racer friends who would too.

edit- after looking back at the original pics, I'll have to do some work on the emitter board to get it to fit. Hopefully it should be quick under a microscope with a high speed dental drill, but more hassle than I was expecting originally.


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## lighter (Dec 23, 2014)

Hello all and big thanks to GJHS!

+1 for 3c tint.


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## bianchifan (Feb 13, 2010)

For me I fear, 3C would be much too warm. But I never tried..
Even cold (official), the most neutral mod I did was pimping my old Cateye triple shot.
I used these boards from DX, no binning when ordered, now they tell T6-1D, I cannot really believe..



For my Solarstorm X2 were much much too cold with green and violett circles I changed to T6-3B.
First imperssion, much too yellowish, especially on low.
(3B is lying above the neutral line while 1D will be crossed)

 

Meanwhile I got familiar whith the color, it's quite relaxing offroad, lightyears better than 0c or 1a or whatever comes with the original build.

I do think, I will prefer 2D, but I never founf such binning


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

I would prefer the 3B tint over the 3C because if you look at the photos I have attached, the right side I bought from Ali express (XM-L2 T6-3B The link no longer works) these where the first batch of Yinding Lights that came out.

the left side I bought from fasttech but I don't know the exact tint used but I think it would be very close to the 1A?

$52.02 YINDING 2*Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 1800-Lumen White LED Bike Light / Headlamp - 1*battery pack (4*18650 / 4400mAh / 2S2P) / US plug at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

I ride during the summer months in Perth Australia and its dry and dusty. I find the 3B tint gives you more depth perception and better colour rendition but I have always wanted something in-between the 2 tints pictured below, something like 2C but if that is out of the question I would rather go with the 3B tint.

Cheers


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## syadasti (Apr 20, 2004)

Warmer tints are better for various ergonomic reasons like trail details and not screwing up your circadian rhythm. Study after study has shown this. The latest study shows that display backlights are also unhealthy for this reason:

E-readers and tablets really do seem to alter your sleep schedule | Ars Technica

Various studies have also shown this in home lighting. Best to use 2700-3000K, similar to traditional incandescent, in that application (2700K is probably the most common tint sold in US home lighting and 3500K is the color temperature of sunset)

In our indoor sports facility we use 4100K which is pretty common in our industry for these reasons.

Another benefit is that warmer tints also tend to have higher CRIs compared to the most common LED bins.

The rods in our eye explain why it's better to use lower color temperatures in cycling applications:



> The rods are the most numerous of the photoreceptors, some 120 million, and are the more sensitive than the cones. However, they are not sensitive to color. They are responsible for our dark-adapted, or scotopic, vision. The rods are incredibly efficient photoreceptors. More than one thousand times as sensitive as the cones, they can reportedly be triggered by individual photons under optimal conditions. The optimum dark-adapted vision is obtained only after a considerable period of darkness, say 30 minutes or longer, because the rod adaption process is much slower than that of the cones.
> 
> The rod sensitivity is shifted toward shorter wavelengths compared to daylight vision, accounting for the growing apparent brightness of green leaves in twilight.
> 
> While the visual acuity or visual resolution is much better with the cones, the rods are better motion sensors. Since the rods predominate in the peripheral vision, that peripheral vision is more light sensitive, enabling you to see dimmer objects in your peripheral vision. If you see a dim star in your peripheral vision, it may disappear when you look at it directly since you are then moving the image onto the cone-rich fovea region which is less light sensitive. You can detect motion better with your peripheral vision, since it is primarily rod vision.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Appel said:


> How do you tell the difference between a XML and a XM-L2 led?? The pictures from page 1 and this page looks the same to me.


That's exactly what we wanted. I'm happy to report, so far, that the XM-L2 has the same quality as the XML did.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Ivan, for your environment cooler variant would probably be better. There is probably less foliage and more sandy (my guess). For the most of us who have more or less green environment warmer tints are better. I think we have to agree on some most common tint. 3C is the most valued by a lot of flashlight users over at BLF. On the other hand you won't see much difference between 3B and 3C, it can be none as they are in adjacent clasess.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Ok uber light nerds...one more time for the short-bus rider here:

I have a Gemini Duo that is the XM L2 U2..what tint is this as U2 is the bin correct? Its the typical v. white light to my eyes.

I have an original batch Yinding that is the XM L2 T6 with a 3B tint. Its more "peach" colored to me and I like the tint, but it looks a little funny when combined with my SSX2 on the helmet that is the XM-L U2 (again, not sure of the tint).

Can someone please clarify?

Peace.


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

Here's a gopro print screen of a recent night ride we had of the 2 yindings I posted in a earlier post. I have the 3B tint on my helmet (left side of the photo) and the fasttech "white LED" on the right side, As you said I may not notice the difference between the 3B and 3C, But I would still prefer the 3B.

Cheers


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

My neutral white lights look a lot less peachy than the photos above. 
I have a warm white that is too yellow, I've seen and disliked cool white stock lights, but my favourite is a neutral white.

I am not sure of the exact spectrum- neutral white seems to be quite a range. I would say that the cooler side of neutral is my favourite.

So hard to tell without having the actual light to look at. The diagram just isn't the same as trying the lights.

note- looks like the KD board with emitters will be a bit of a job to fit, not a simple drop-in.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Unpleasant news about my GearBest order. I've ordered the head-only with free battery box December 18.
PayPal status: "_You have sent $30.51 USD to GearBest - Gadgets & Electronics Deals with PayPal_".
GearBest email: "_We are delighted to inform you that we have received your payment for order WW1412********693 and will process your order immediately_".

Today I've logged into GB site to check whether there's any update. Guess what? Status of my order changed indeed, and now is... "Order Status:*Payment Failed*"! :skep:
Of course I've immediately re-checked my bank's and PayPal transaction details: everything is fine. Opened the support ticket on GB asking for their comments; no answer yet.

Perhaps, opinion 'too good to be true" about this deal might become reality in my case. To all who has ordered the light recently: could you please verify your orders and report whether they're Ok or not?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

*LED neutral tints*

Just thought I'd add to the discussion:

Personally I think most people want a tint ( or bin ) that is bright. That is why most lamp makers sell the lamps with either a bright white or cool white bin.

A couple years ago I bought a small XML torch that I intended to use as a back up light. I was given the option for "cool white", neutral white or warm white. Not wanting something that was too bluish ( or too orange-ish ), I went with "neutral white" thinking that it would just look very white with no bluish tint. What I ended up with was something that was quite different than what I expected.

When I took the torch out for a night ride the first thing I noticed was that it appeared to be not as bright ( at first glance ) as my other XML ( T6 ) torch, which was quite bright but with bluish tint. After riding with the new torch a while my eyes adjusted and I suddenly noticed that I was seeing much more detail in the trail than what I normally would. ( dry summer weather ). It was also quite noticeable that there was much less reflective glare which thus made riding at night much more easier on the eye. It became apparent after riding with it a few times that all earth tones were much more defined and appeared more 3D ( at least at slower speeds ). Afterward I began to wonder what it would be like to ride with my better ( brighter ) lamps using the more neutral bin. Hopefully by next year I will be able to know more about riding with neutral white LEDs and will know whether or not it really is something that will enhance riding at night.

Here are some of my expectations when using the more neutral bin LED's; If you ride with a high powered bar lamp and like to use the upper ( brighter ) modes, you should experience less "close in reflective glare". This should really help with people using lamps that have a wider beam pattern. On the other hand it might not work the same way with helmet lights. If you like intense throw from a helmet light you will likely need more power or more LED's to get the job done to your satisfaction. One thing I'm hoping I will see with neutral helmet lighting is that in the late spring and summer when the pollen levels are high, "There should be much less close-in reflective glare from the light reflecting off the particulate matter floating in the air. If this turns out to be true it should help to see things better in the distance as long as you have a bright enough lamp.

I'm really hoping to see some positive results with the neutral binned Duo clones ( or Yindings ). If I end up liking what I see I "WILL" lobby for more neutral bins for the better name brand lamps. So far I'm thinking the 3C tint should be the way to go as it is between 5000K ( K=Kelvin ) and 4500K. This should be white enough to not look too orange-ish but still enhance the natural surroundings with more color detail.

There is one potential down side; I'm not sure how useful the neutral bins will be in damp or wet conditions. Since there is less higher spectrum light to reflect back this _might_ translate to not being able to see as well when things get wet. In a wet environment the brighter bins might be to more advantage since they are likely to provide light from the higher end of the spectrum. Anyway, just my CAt-gut talking here so at this point I can only speculate.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

I'd definitely get ahold of them. After reading that post I checked my status. I paid them $38.05 for the whole kit, it's been processed and is listed as preparing for shipment. Sounds like a glitch of your order, not a group buy imploding.


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## syadasti (Apr 20, 2004)

Wonder if we should consider the XP-L - high CRI at warm white tint or maybe the 3D. Low CRI with high output (very blue LEDs or very orange like HPS lights with high lumens but low CRIs are what most people don't want):

Noctigon XP16 V2 MCPCB & CREE XP-L U5 7A3 80+CRI LED [Noctigon XP16 V2 XP-L U5 7A3 80] - $7.98 : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store

Noctigon XP16 V2 MCPCB & CREE XP-L V6 3D LED [Noctigon XP16 V2 XP-L V6 3D LED] - $6.98 : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store

Knockoff SSX2 are available with XP-L at light malls and other places:

SolarStorm X2 2*CREE XP-L V5 LED 4-Mode Bike Light Set+4*18650 Battery pack +Charger - Black - 2 LEDs Bicycle Light - Bike Lights - Led Bicycle Lights


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

ARandomBiker said:


> Sounds like a glitch of your order,


I hope so, and it isn't "a method" of avoiding possible losses because of battery box mistakenly included in the campaign. Waiting for their answer, though...


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Gearbest processed my payment and it went through with no problem. 

This discussion about tints is about the lights they are about to ship out, or the batch after that? Hopefully the first batch is already made! Let's not cause a massive delay in shipping. We'll be lucky to see these lights before February if they shipped them out today. 

I want the tint that's compatible with my Gearbest Solarstorm X3 (which i don't have yet), the two Solarstorm X2 as well as 2 or 3 other lights which are all about the same tint. I honestly don't know what the exact tint is. 

I can't see that mixing a cool (regular?) lamp with one that's very wam. I bet that doesn't look right.


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## syadasti (Apr 20, 2004)

varider said:


> I can't see that mixing a cool (regular?) lamp with one that's very wam. I bet that doesn't look right.


Should not be a problem, some automotive interiors used three different color LEDs to provide white LED illumination before white LEDs were common. A better tint with a blue tint should be less blue/better than blue all around when mixing tints.

3 color projection display setups also have better quality color rendering than single color models - similar effect should be seen in lights.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> Unpleasant news about my GearBest order. I've ordered the head-only with free battery box December 18.
> PayPal status: "_You have sent $30.51 USD to GearBest - Gadgets & Electronics Deals with PayPal_".
> GearBest email: "_We are delighted to inform you that we have received your payment for order WW1412********693 and will process your order immediately_".
> 
> ...


Archie, don't worry, they will take care of it. Mistakes happen, as long as it's fixed no big deal. Let me know what happens.

As I've said, I don't work for GearBest, with that said I also won't stand by a company that does the wrong thing. I checked everything and posted those pics last night to make sure the XM-L2 was good. If it was wrong or cheaper than my XML, you would have woken to read "cancel your orders"; happily everything looks great. GearBest has always done right in the past on DashCamTalk forum so I'm sure this too will be fixed.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

varider said:


> Gearbest processed my payment and it went through with no problem.
> 
> This discussion about tints is about the lights they are about to ship out, or the batch after that? Hopefully the first batch is already made! Let's not cause a massive delay in shipping. We'll be lucky to see these lights before February if they shipped them out today.
> 
> ...


I found that the SSX3 from GearBeast had a slightly warmer tint than the XT40. I didn't post it, figuring I would wait until others got theirs so people wouldn't call me ut:


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok I've got 8 people who want 3C with 8 more hours left to decide, correct? I can not extend the time, the 1A shipping is on hold due to this, because once shipped you can't cancel.

Keep in mind that IF we can, the price will be a few bucks more and they will take two weeks more to make. Tonight I will know and need a final answer so keep an eye on this thread tonight, you may have to act fast to not hold everyone up or if you're still keeping your 1A, say so now

Here's the list so far. Exchange means you have a 1A and will trade for the 3C, next batch means you will buy new on the new batch of 3C

Ledoman - exchange 1
Appel - exchange 1
bhocewar - 1 3C next batch or exchange?
epicgamer - exchange 2?
xcJagge - exchange 3
Offroad'bent - exchange 1
lighter - 1 3C next batch
syadasti - 1 3C next batch
pscal - exchange 1
UpstateSC-rider - exchange 2
burnz - exchange 1

If I missed your name, tell me and ? people update me


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## circusubet (Aug 5, 2006)

Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
Unpleasant news about my GearBest order. I've ordered the head-only with free battery box December 18.
PayPal status: "You have sent $30.51 USD to GearBest - Gadgets & Electronics Deals with PayPal".
GearBest email: "We are delighted to inform you that we have received your payment for order WW1412********693 and will process your order immediately".

Today I've logged into GB site to check whether there's any update. Guess what? Status of my order changed indeed, and now is... "Order Statusayment Failed"! 
Of course I've immediately re-checked my bank's and PayPal transaction details: everything is fine. Opened the support ticket on GB asking for their comments; no answer yet.

Perhaps, opinion 'too good to be true" about this deal might become reality in my case. To all who has ordered the light recently: could you please verify your orders and report whether they're Ok or not?


I will stick with the original order, as fas as tint goes.

My box has shipped and the head, head and battery are "processing".

Thx
John


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> Archie, don't worry, they will take care of it. Mistakes happen, as long as it's fixed no big deal.


I sincerely hope so. But I'm still curious what is the current GB state of orders for other people here, who ordered head&box combo during presale campaign while the box was listed as a "free gift"...


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> Tonight I will know and need a final answer so keep an eye on this thread tonight, you may have to act fast to not hold everyone up or if you're still keeping your 1A, say so now


As for me, I'm pretty Ok with existing bin/tint; no need to modify anything.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

circusubet said:


> My box has shipped and the head, head and battery are "processing".


Have you ordered the box separately from the light(s) using coupon code, or as a bundle (free gift)?


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## lighter (Dec 23, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Tell me if:
> 1. You already ordered and want the 3C in place of the 1A
> or
> 2. You already ordered and want the 3C in addition to the 1A
> ...


Will take the 1A I already ordered, but interested to see the 3C version in future batch(es).


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## syadasti (Apr 20, 2004)

3C next batch (head only), I didn't order anything other than the SSX3 mentioned prior to this thread.


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## siata94 (Jan 27, 2013)

TiGeo said:


> I have a Gemini Duo that is the XM L2 U2..what tint is this as U2 is the bin correct? Its the typical v. white light to my eyes.


Most likely 1A?

I have 3C, 1A and 2C and again, for my terrain w/ lots of reddish dirt and not so much vegetation around, 3C made it seemed too incandescent, 1A seems to be the norm on everybody else's brand name lights as well as the chinese clones.

2C seems to be the goldilocks tint for me; 3C too hot, 1A too cold, 2C just right . Upgrading my helmet light to 2C as well.

Color chart was posted on page 5 of this thread.


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

Ordered 2 of the 1A. Don't change it. If I want a different tint I'll reflow my own.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

I'm sticking with 1A on my order. I have no vegetation to bounce light off of in the AZ desert, and I want to eventually get a helmet light and want the tints to be the same.


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

GJHS said:


> xcJagge - exchange 3?


That's correct and would be awesome.


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

@GJHS, On a side note, great work in finding this light and verifying the quality! In the future, if you are trying to coordinate orders, I would recommend getting what everyone is interested in ahead of time and then work with the supplier to see if they can accommodate. It would be much less of a headache for you and much easier for the buyer to know ahead of time what they are ordering and not have to worry about going to MTBR to see if the deal changed. Let alone knowing that their order is on hold because of a potential new deal. Just something to keep in mind. Appreciate all of your effort to try and accommodate everyone though.


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## bianchifan (Feb 13, 2010)

I'll take it as it comes, if I don't like the tint.. my iron is waiting for heating up:
"Package Contents: 1 x Yinding Cree XM-L2 900Lm 4 Modes Cycling Headlight"
No binning, no tint, but I hope for some more Lumen 



-Archie- said:


> But I'm still curious what is the current GB state of orders for other people here, who ordered head&box combo during presale campaign while the box was listed as a "free gift"...


Perhaps they have some trouble with their ordering system 
I ordered one head only plus insurance, no gift visible, only a couple of preorders. 
Checking the status some days later two orders were visible, first order cancelled, second "payment received".
Both orders included that special "gift", whatever happened...
Two days ago I received two mails, one for cancellation, one for confirmation. 
Yesterday I received another mail: "We've processed your authorized payment".

Actual status: one order cancelled, one order processing...
Any questions ???


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

siata94 said:


> Most likely 1A?
> 
> I have 3C, 1A and 2C and again, for my terrain w/ lots of reddish dirt and not so much vegetation around, 3C made it seemed too incandescent, 1A seems to be the norm on everybody else's brand name lights as well as the chinese clones.
> 
> ...


Hmmm...interesting. Technically, the 2C is outside the neutral range but could make an interesting tint depending whether or not it has any over-tones. You might be right though. I wish I had actual known bin types to compare. Of the one neutral LED I own I have no idea what actual bin type it is.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

The 3C was requested in the beginning and Yinding said NO without a 500 order minimum. 1A was order as soon as Dora could, knowing the group wanted XM-L2. Fast forward to last night and now after a 170 piece order, Yinding is changing their mind.

I, myself, when posting those pictures would have never have thought we would be this far along. I have no plans to learn Chinese and move, forgetaboutit


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

OK what tint does everyone want, last and final call! Post your answer here http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/best-nuetral-led-mountain-biking-943154.html

Right now it's XM-L2 U2 3C

3B was requested and if I remember is not possible. I going to repeat this, you have till tonight to decide, it's holding the rest of the orders from shipping. So if it goes longer, you will have to buy both because the 1As will ship tonight.


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## lighter (Dec 23, 2014)

I'll take 1A.


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## PScal (Apr 29, 2010)

Sign me up for 3C please. I have already pre-ordered.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

I'm new on mtbr and I just wonder how gearbest will be able to connect my order for 2 lampheads only I placed when all this started, with my nick here at mtbr. I still would love to try the 3C tint on those yindings. But I don't understand how I can change my order. Will you, GJHS, do that?


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## lighter (Dec 23, 2014)

-Archie- said:


> But I'm still curious what is the current GB state of orders for other people here, who ordered head&box combo during presale campaign while the box was listed as a "free gift"...


Order status: Processing (the slider is between Payment Recieved & Product Dispatch)

Order date : 12/19/2014 16:52:25 PM
Payment : PayPal , Pay time : 12/22/2014 16:00:52 PM


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

How big is the possibilty that it will still work to order original yindings from gearbest after that smoke has cleard from these preorders?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

bianchifan said:


> Actual status: one order cancelled, one order processing...
> Any questions ???


The final clarification, please.  Do I understand correctly that you've placed just single order yourself, and second (cancelled) one was added by GB due to the ordering system failure?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Appel said:


> I'm new on mtbr and I just wonder how gearbest will be able to connect my order for 2 lampheads only I placed when all this started, with my nick here at mtbr. I still would love to try the 3C tint on those yindings. But I don't understand how I can change my order. Will you, GJHS, do that?


No, you will cancel when we know and then preorder the 3C


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

lighter said:


> Order status: Processing (the slider is between Payment Recieved & Product Dispatch)


Thank you! In my case, the slider formerly also was somewhere at "Processing" part, but now retracted to "Pending". Quite strange...


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## upstateSC-rider (Dec 25, 2003)

GJHS said:


> The 3C was requested in the beginning and Yinding said NO without a 500 order minimum. 1A was order as soon as Dora could, knowing the group wanted XM-L2. Fast forward to last night and now after a 170 piece order, Yinding is changing their mind.
> 
> I, myself, when posting those pictures would have never have thought we would be this far along. * I have no plans to learn Chinese and move, forgetaboutit*


We can surely pitch in for your Rosetta Stone order. 
I pre-ordered 2 1A, will gladly swap for 3C.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

GJHS said:


> No, you will cancel when we know and then preorder the 3C


Thanks! Then I understand.


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

I'll stick with the 1A, future batches of 2C would be great


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## burnz (Dec 23, 2014)

Hi GJHS, hi folks,

i ordered 2 heads and would change to 3C at least one - both, when the extra bucks are less then 5 compared to the coupon-price.
Well, a separate PCB with two 3C-Emmitter would be fine for me, too. Than i would change the color later.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> Thank you! In my case, the slider formerly also was somewhere at "Processing" part, but now retracted to "Pending". Quite strange...


Blame me I asked to freeze the shipping of the 1A to give people a chance to cancel and switch to 3C. I will know soon and tell everyone. Archie don't worry you will get what you ordered


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok, I started a newer thread to discuss and choose the best nuetral led for the Yinding and Mountain Bking in general. The topic, is getting lost in this huge thread.

So please post about it here
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/best-nuetral-led-mountain-biking-943154.html and let's get the best tint. Keep Yinding topics, including orders and swaps, here and Nuetral led topics there. I will also post the final led choice there.


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

Hi GJHS

Exchange 2, ordered 2 with coupon pricing

Should the people intersted post their order ID?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

upstateSC-rider said:


> We can surely pitch in for your Rosetta Stone order.


If I get bored, I'll visit China town, thanks


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

epic-gamer said:


> Hi GJHS
> 
> Exchange 2, ordered 2 with coupon pricing
> 
> Should the people intersted post their order ID?


No , I have no part in that. You will call Customer service and cancel your 1A orders. Meanwhile head over to the new thread (http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/best-nuetral-led-mountain-biking-943154.html) and help decide which tint


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

GJHS said:


> No , I have no part in that. You will call Customer service and cancel your 1A orders. Meanwhile head over to the new thread (http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/best-nuetral-led-mountain-biking-943154.html) and help decide which tint


So is not exhange afterall... it is (for others here)
*IF YOU PREORDERED BUT WOULD WANT 3C (IF POSSIBLE), GO CANCEL YOUR ORDER *NOW**


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

epic-gamer said:


> So is not exhange afterall... it is (for others here)
> *IF YOU PREORDERED BUT WOULD WANT 3C IF POSSIBLE, GO CANCAL YOUR ORDER *NOW**


If you take that advice and cancel before knowing if the 3C is possible you'd better be prepared to wait for any Yinding. You may put yourself at the end of a long group who already presaled and will come first. Wait a few hours is better


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## cardnation (Jul 2, 2014)

GJHS you've done an EXCELLENT job here. 

All this swapping seems a bit like playing with fire, with potential to put a good thing in distress.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

cardnation said:


> GJHS you've done an EXCELLENT job here.
> 
> All this swapping seems a bit like playing with fire, with potential to put a good thing in distress.


Thank you and Thank you for the reputation points you sent. I appreciate it


----------



## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

I'll stick with whatever is coming on the pre-sale, thanks.


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## circusubet (Aug 5, 2006)

-Archie- said:


> Have you ordered the box separately from the light(s) using coupon code, or as a bundle (free gift)?


Yes, separately. The deal was gone on the box and I missed the coupons, no big deal....

I had to put in three differant orders though...

Thanks again GJHS!

Thx
John


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## circusubet (Aug 5, 2006)

Punto Pete said:


> I'll stick with whatever is coming on the pre-sale, thanks.


I'll stick with the 1A, same as Punto!

Thx
John


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## eggdog (Nov 17, 2010)

I Pre ordered a few days ago and my paypal has been charged for the light head only..I just got a call from DHL with my tracking # for delivery tomorrow? Anyone else getting their tracking #.? I checked the DHL sight and it is showing in the USA and out for delivery for tomorrow 12/24. 

I can't believe it is shipping that fast!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Since when does DHL call you? You must have gotten a pleasant mistake since Dora held them until we checked them.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

circusubet said:


> Yes, separately.


Well, looks like "my" problem is indeed the supposedly free box.

Still no answer from GB support so far...


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## eggdog (Nov 17, 2010)

I have no idea. Just got a phone call that signature is needed and when I went to the DHL site, it had the delivery info. I guess I will find out tomorrow.

Waybill: 273xxxxx
Customs status updated
Sign up for shipment notifications
Tuesday, December 23, 2014 at 13:40
Origin Service Area:
HONG KONG - HONG KONG - HONG KONG
Further Detail:
Next Step:
Destination Service Area:
DENVER, CO - WESTMINSTER - USA
Tuesday, December 23, 2014	Location	Time
5	Customs status updated	CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA	13:40
4	Departed Facility in HONG KONG - HONG KONG	HONG KONG - HONG KONG	21:47
3	Processed at HONG KONG - HONG KONG	HONG KONG - HONG KONG	21:37
2	Arrived at Sort Facility HONG KONG - HONG KONG	HONG KONG - HONG KONG	20:08
1	Shipment picked up	HONG KONG - HONG KONG	17:20
Hide Details


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

eggdog said:


> Anyone else getting their tracking #.?


I paid additional $1.99 for tracking, just to be sure everything goes correct. Obviously, I don't know it yet, as my order is in some undetermined state now...


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

@Eggdog, tag, you're it, start testing! Whew takes the load off of me, what a nice Christmas gift.


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

So now we are waiting to see if 3C tint is even possible? or do you have to cancel and re-order?


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## neabue (Jan 5, 2011)

I put in a pre-order for lighthead only, but would like to switch to the 3C tint instead. So will there be a separate pre-order for the 3C with similar prices if we cancel the current 1A order?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok Guys, if you want the 3C, it's NOW time to cancel your 1A. The 1A is waiting to ship so you have a couple hours to cancel so GB can start shipping. Do it NOW! Send you order# to [email protected] and thank her for her hard work (sorry to be like your mom  )

Remember before you do, the price of the 3C will be a few bucks more than the 1A and they will take 2+ weeks more to make so be patient

Ledoman - exchange 1
Appel - exchange 1
epicgamer - exchange 2?
xcJagge - exchange 3
Offroad'bent - exchange 1
pscal - exchange 1
UpstateSC-rider - exchange 2
burnz - exchange 1

I'm guessing that XM-L2 U2 3C is fine since there are not many posts on http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/best-nuetral-led-mountain-biking-943154.html


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## hernluis (Nov 16, 2008)

Xml2 has white led base. The xml has green led base. On these photos the base the led is on is white so xml2 from what i have heard.


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

I have decided to go with the XM-L2 U2 3C I have sent Dora a email with the order number stating what I would like, just awaiting her return email. Hopefully i can run it on the medium setting due to the Bin being a U2 ( i know the naked human eye wont notice it but atleast my mind will LOL)


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

My order has been cancelled.
I would like a 3C version exchange.


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

Email with order numbers sent to Dora. Is that cancellation enough, do I need to do something else?


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

I could not find a cancel button at GB, so all I could do is send that email. Is all good or was I too late? Timing was somewhat challenging for me, I did stay awake to 2 am, GJHS's request to cancel appeared 5 am, I emailed Dora 7:15 am when I woke up.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

XCJagge said:


> I could not find a cancel button at GB, so all I could do is send that email. Is all good or was I too late? Timing was somewhat challenging for me, I did stay awake to 2 am, GJHS's request to cancel appeared 5 am, I emailed Dora 7:15 am when I woke up.


@XCJagge welcome to my world on this deal, I'm becoming nocturnal :yawn:

Sending your order number to Dora is all that's necessary.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

So what is the deal now, I see 2 light heads and 2 sets, different prices. Can I still get an XM-L2 with white color (U2/1A)? One of the light head choices says "natural white" in the title but they both say "natural white" beside the color of the light head when you open the description up.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

TiGeo, this one doesn't seem to say Natural White:
Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4-Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp (4 x 18650 Battery Pack)-32.02 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

BTW, thanks for the colour change option Mike. I guess I jumped too soon at the KD upgrade kit with driver and LED now- no need to change LEDs.
I can still use the driver for the Yinding and the LED board to pimp the KD clone I have. Hope KD didn't mind me requesting they list the combination now.


----------



## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

Ofroad'bent said:


> This one doesn't seem to say Natural White:
> Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4-Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp (4 x 18650 Battery Pack)-32.02 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com


This:
Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( 4 x 18650 Battery Natural White )-29.51 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> Send you order# to [email protected] and thank her for her hard work


May I ask you, whether Ms. Dora is a sales person, or a member of technical staff?

I'm glad your experience with GearBest was positive, but for me GB currently looks like yet another Chinese web shop with unreliable service. My order still displays bogus "Payment Failed" message despite of successful bank/PayPal transaction and confirmation email from GearBest itself. Their support system decorated with "_We will reply to you within 24 hours except on weekends and public holidays_" message, and there's no public holiday in China now - but my ticket is still not answered neither on site nor by email.

Perhaps, mail to the lady you've mentioned will shed any light to this situation? :???:


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I don't understand what's happening here. I want what I ordered to be sent out. No holds or waiting for something else.


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## syadasti (Apr 20, 2004)

varider said:


> I don't understand what's happening here. I want what I ordered to be sent out. No holds or waiting for something else.


If you are checking the tracking, it takes a LONG time for the status to change. If you didn't cancel your order, there's not a hold, just a very long slow shipping/tracking process.

Also they can be a bit out of sync responding to inquiries, but they're in China which is GMT + 8 hrs - 10-13 hrs ahead of the US.


----------



## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok I know everyone is excited about the 3C, which is great. The deal was just put together at 1am US time, so give it a little time and wait for it to go to presale. The final price hasn't been locked in yet meaning there is no coupon. If you order now, don't complain later if a coupon comes out. Why she put it on the site and not presale, I don't know. Im doing the best I can to get Info out there, yet going to bed very late slows the process. Last night I had a dream that I was riding a trail, it was getting dark and I realized I didn't have my bike lights ut:

For the 1A crowd your lights are going out now. Some will be delayed a week because of the presale being bigger than the original order and Dora is making the shipping department check each one before it sends. After all this work, we have both been doing our best, making sure it's right. If you've asked in the past why Chinese sellers don't listen to our needs and build what we want, well now you see how much extra work that is and these sellers don't have the resources of a big business so please be patient, you're getting what no other seller has tried to do.


----------



## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> May I ask you, whether Ms. Dora is a sales person, or a member of technical staff?
> 
> I'm glad your experience with GearBest was positive, but for me GB currently looks like yet another Chinese web shop with unreliable service. My order still displays bogus "Payment Failed" message despite of successful bank/PayPal transaction and confirmation email from GearBest itself. Their support system decorated with "_We will reply to you within 24 hours except on weekends and public holidays_" message, and there's no public holiday in China now - but my ticket is still not answered neither on site nor by email.
> 
> Perhaps, mail to the lady you've mentioned will shed any light to this situation? :???:


Archie, GearBest, I gather isn't huge and I know how frustrating it is waiting for an email and seeing a problem on your much wanted order. I spoke to Dora last night and she said send her the order number. Don't worry it will be taken care of.

If anyone has issues, email [email protected]. Please posts general requests and suggestions here, let's no overload her yet write if you need to.


----------



## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

TiGeo said:


> So what is the deal now, I see 2 light heads and 2 sets, different prices. Can I still get an XM-L2 with white color (U2/1A)? One of the light head choices says "natural white" in the title but they both say "natural white" beside the color of the light head when you open the description up.


Yes everyone can still get the XM-L2 T6 1A and I believe the coupon still. Go back a few pages and use the link.

The XM-L2 U2 3C is listed yet confusing, so wait till it goes to presale. It will take two weeks to make because they're still making more 1As.


----------



## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> I spoke to Dora last night and she said send her the order number. Don't worry it will be taken care of.


Thank you! I've sent email with order # and other details related to the deal (PayPal transaction ID, support ticket ID, etc); let's hope all this mess will be resolved.


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## circusubet (Aug 5, 2006)

Fourtrax said:


> Ordered 2 of the 1A. Don't change it. If I want a different tint I'll reflow my own.


Fourtrax,

I have looked everywhere, what does "reflow" refer to?

Thax
John


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

circusubet said:


> I have looked everywhere, what does "reflow" refer to?


Everywhere except Google, perhaps?  Reflow is a resoldering of surface-mounted electronic components. In this case - change of LEDs.


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## circusubet (Aug 5, 2006)

GJHS,

in your dream, on your ride, were you trying to herd a bunch of cats?


----------



## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

A bit of offtopic here, but... Merry Christmas, colleagues!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

circusubet said:


> GJHS,
> 
> in your dream, on your ride, were you trying to herd a bunch of cats?


Luckily No


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Moving forward should we seperate this thread for the 3C so that info doesn't get lost? Sometimes it's difficult to follow long threads especially for people coming in late. Would it be easier or better to have all Yinding info together so the thread stays at the top?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> A bit of offtopic here, but... Merry Christmas, colleagues!
> 
> View attachment 949724


A Very Merry Christmas to you as well.


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## syadasti (Apr 20, 2004)

3C presale with the coupon is working now.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

syadasti said:


> 3C presale with the coupon is working now.


What coupon?


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

YES!! Thank You GJHS and Dora 

It was worth the wait, factory installed NW 3C for only a DOLLAR more!
Use coupon code: yinding 
Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( 4 x 18650 Battery Natural White )-29.51 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
Final price should be $25.14 USD


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Yes everyone, the neutral tint Yinding XM-L2 U2 3C is now on presale on the GearBest site, use coupon "Yinding". You will like the price.

Light Head
Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( 4 x 18650 Battery Natural White )-33.14 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

Full Set
Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery Pack Natural White )-47.17 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

You requested a Neutral Tint Yinding, Ok Done :thumbsup:


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

:thumbsup:
This is great fun all the way. Hope it will be as fun when the package arrives.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Well, some updates on my GearBest order. Email to the address *GJHS *provided indeed caused their reply finally, but as I've suspected, "unbelievably good deal" turned out to be not as attractive in reality... GB says that they were unable to get my money due to some problems with my account or insufficient funds on it (perfect explanation, isn't it?), so they've refused to ship the order. :eekster:

Long story short, different versions of the deal from all involved sides below.

PayPal:
Description: You have sent $30.51 USD to GearBest - Gadgets & Electronics Deals with PayPal)

My bank:
18.12.14 10:51 PAYPAL*WWWGEARBEST > Reserved amount 25.81 EUR

GearBest:
We are delighted to inform you that we have received your payment for order WW141218*******93 and will process your order immediately

Dora:
The confirmation emails from us is not about successful payment, it's for authorized approval that we can get the deductions from your paypal, but actually we couldn't, you can see the attachment, and your paypal is no less money, right?

PayPal:
Status: Canceled *The seller canceled this payment*, and the money has been returned to your account.

Now Dora suggest me to order the light once again, and promises to include "free" battery box as in initial order. I have to decide, whether the spoken word from worker of such company is enough warranty for me to try again...


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

For me all the money of the canceled order has been refunded to my accont. I mailed Dora my order # and then the money was refunded.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

eggdog said:


> I have no idea. Just got a phone call that signature is needed and when I went to the DHL site, it had the delivery info. I guess I will find out tomorrow.
> 
> Waybill: 273xxxxx
> Customs status updated
> ...


???

***


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> Now Dora suggest me to order the light once again, and promises to include "free" battery box as in initial order. I have to decide, whether the spoken word from worker of such company is enough warranty for me to try again...


The spoken word of the worker who made all of this happen. I think you can trust her for a $10 battery box yet I understand your frustration


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

When do these coupon codes expire? I'm waiting to see how much funds I have left after the holidays next week. 

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> When do these coupon codes expire? I'm waiting to see how much funds I have left after the holidays next week.
> 
> -Garry


Now that she applied the same coupon to the new Nuetral Yinding presale which ends January 5th, I think you have plenty of time. I should have my sample early next week to test.


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## evenslower (Sep 26, 2005)

GJHS, can you make the descriptions in your post #391 links to the presale item? or are you awaiting inspection of the actual product? Thanks in advance


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

evenslower said:


> GJHS, can you make the descriptions in your post #391 links to the presale item? or are you awaiting inspection of the actual product? Thanks in advance


Sorry thought they were. Fixed them


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## evenslower (Sep 26, 2005)

Sweet, light on preorder. Never hurts to have an extra light. Thanks for all your effort on this.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> The spoken word of the worker who made all of this happen. I think you can trust her for a $10 battery box yet I understand your frustration


I always trust the people unless strong reasons against that are encountered, so probably I'll try again indeed. What makes me a bit upset is, if she has enough competence to manage the orders - I'd expect that she rather just says to the involved personnel at GearBest something like "Hey, stop kidding and fulfill this order!" - but instead it was cancelled altogether...


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## paul_f (Jan 5, 2006)

I ordered two on 22nd that have now been shipped. Thanks for organising this!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

paul_f said:


> I ordered two on 22nd that have now been shipped. Thanks for organising this!


You're welcome


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Guys just an FYI, it is too late to cancel your 1A orders, they have shipped already or are about to


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

In answer to your request, I suggested a combo package and I think Dora put together quite a deal. If you buy the Yinding light head you can get the Xtar Vp2 charger for $22 and the SolarStorm battery box for $10. That's a really great price on a high end charger. It was decided not to include batteries now, since shipping them can be slow and your local dealers sell them, making them faster to get.

Comments or suggestions?


----------



## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> Comments or suggestions?


Perhaps, some decent 4-cell charger in such a combo will be attractive - as the box uses four cells, and it's handy to charge whole set at one pass...


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

With that battery box you don't really NEED a charger like that. It has a protection board and can use the standard Magic Shine type charger.

The Xstar VP2 is currently considered the best charger for single cells on the market (as opposed to hobby chargers for packs). It would be good for putting cells back on balance every once in a while, but is certainly not "needed" by the average guy.

There is a new, probably better four bay charger coming to market in the spring.


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## upstateSC-rider (Dec 25, 2003)

Ian_C said:


> With that battery box you don't really NEED a charger like that. It has a protection board and can use the standard Magic Shine type charger.
> 
> The Xstar VP2 is currently considered the best charger for single cells on the market (as opposed to hobby chargers for packs). It would be good for putting cells back on balance every once in a while, but is certainly not "needed" by the average guy.
> 
> There is a new, probably better four bay charger coming to market in the spring.


In addition, I like what someone else mentioned earlier that it would better to have two of these chargers instead of a single 4 bay for redundancy reasons.


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## hernluis (Nov 16, 2008)

So im guessing the 10 step driver for the new neutral tint is a no go? guess you cant have it all.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

hernluis said:


> So im guessing the 10 step driver for the new neutral tint is a no go? guess you cant have it all.


Sorry to say, it got requested just not implemented.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

upstateSC-rider said:


> it would better to have two of these chargers instead of a single 4 bay for redundancy reasons.


Then you'll probably want to buy two current sets to be completely safe!


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

hernluis said:


> So im guessing the 10 step driver for the new neutral tint is a no go? guess you cant have it all.


I'll let you know if my upgrade works when I get the parts.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

GJHS said:


> In answer to your request, I suggested a combo package and I think Dora put together quite a deal. If you buy the Yinding light head you can get the Xtar Vp2 charger for $22 and the SolarStorm battery box for $10. That's a really great price on a high end charger. It was decided not to include batteries now, since shipping them can be slow and your local dealers sell them, making them faster to get.
> 
> Comments or suggestions?
> View attachment 950233


Is this combo live on the site yet?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

the mayor said:


> Is this combo live on the site yet?


I just realized there is a small issue with it. If you use the Yinding coupon on the light, the coupon on the box and buy seperate the package is $68. If you buy the package, you're buying the light head at full price and the package is $64, so something isn't quite right in my book. Let me check it tonight and see what's up or at least confirm that's right.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

GJHS said:


> I just realized there is a small issue with it. If you use the Yinding coupon on the light, the coupon on the box and buy seperate the package is $68. If you buy the package, you're buying the light head at full price and the package is $64, so something isn't quite right in my book. Let me check it tonight and see what's up or at least confirm that's right.


OK...glad it's not just me.
And...do you know what the charger has for a wall plug?


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

*Best in class battery pack*

Thanks GJHS for getting this all set up for us, had been searching for a neutral LED for ages; ordered the solitary head lamp.

Anyone looking for a top of the line battery pack for their new Yinding should check out MagicShine's 4 cell, 4400mAh MJ-828, which is also included along with their new improved charger if you order their MJ-818 Tail Light. Worth the $55 for the battery pack and charger alone, it's like you're getting the tail light thrown in for free. As the 818 only uses a small fraction of the juice required by any headlamp, it makes sense to pirate the 828 from this bundle to use with the Yinding, and substitute any crappy old 8.4V pack to power the tail light. Alternately, anyone without such a spare could purchase MagicShine's Y cable and run both the tail light and head lamp from the 828. Kind of a pricey solution for the cheapo Yinding but still less than purchasing a battery case, four cells and a charger all separately plus you get the MagicShine tail light which I highly recommend. And the MJ-828 is unsurpassed, what with its waterproof aluminum/clear polycarbonate shell, protection circuit and built-in voltmeter with the lovely blue back-lit digital display. Have had mine for years now no complaints.

For longer run times there is this choice of 6600/8800 mAh waterproof pack from StupidBright, $31.95 -$38.95. Dunno whether it has ciruit protection but comes in the same kind of silicone case as the 4400mAh unit from MagicShine which does. It too may be purchased alone, from Brightstone. $36.11 + $3.95 shipping. Incidentally, this is the same unit I received with MagicShine's newish MJ-816U, the one with the XM-L U2 center beam and "Mickey Mouse" XP-Gs. Seems a pretty decent pack to me though I've only used it a short while. Silicone rubber mounting straps are great, say goodbye to Velcro!

Can hardly wait to compare the Yinding [Neutral] U2 with the MagicShine's, don't know for sure what the tint is on that one but assuming it must be Cool.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

andychrist said:


> Thanks GJHS for getting this all set up for us, had been searching for a neutral LED for ages; ordered the solitary head lamp....
> 
> For longer run times there is this choice of 6600/8800 mAh waterproof pack from StupidBright, $31.95 -$38.95 Dunno whether it has ciruit protection but comes in the same kind of silicone case as the 4400mAh unit that MagicShine shipped to me along with the MJ-816E Three Beam 1900 Lumen Headlight, and which does include protection. It too may be purchased alone, from Brightstone. $36.11 + $3.95 shipping.


About the link to the "Stupidbright" battery; Bells and whistles going off when I looked at those. Sometimes things are too good to be true. Product description describes both the 6400mAh and the 8800mAh sealed battery as ( both ) being 4-cell 18650. While possible to have a 4-cell 6400mAh it's not possible to have a 4-cell 8800mAh battery pack using 18650's. Possible with 6-cell and 8-cell batteries but not four. That said, I would poo-poo the entire ad ( and website ). Then again if you just want a sealed 4-cell battery and are willing to just roll the dice you possibly will get a 4-cell 4400mAh battery which for the price is not a bad deal.

Interestingly the reviews on the website give these set-ups 5 stars. Either the entire thing is a scam or the people doing the reviews don't know anything about batteries.

Anyway, going forward most of what was written in your post was about batteries and should of been posted in " The Battery Thread".


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Agree Cat, the StupidBright site does have a scammy air. Guy who does the video review appears to be on drugs, don't know if he is the proprietor but wouldn't surprise me. That said, I can attest to the quality of those rubber/silicone cases, and to all those MagicShine products to which I linked, having owned them.

Hope everybody here who ordered the Yinding makes out well.


----------



## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

andychrist said:


> Agree Cat, the StupidBright site does have a scammy air. Guy who does the video review appears to be on drugs, don't know if he is the proprietor but wouldn't surprise me. *That said, I can attest to the quality of those rubber/silicone cases, and to all those MagicShine products to which I linked, having owned them*.
> 
> Hope everybody here who ordered the Yinding makes out well.


I agree, I see nothing wrong with the Magicshine batteries or the silicone cases. You just have to be careful where you buy them. That said it wouldn't surprise me if someone were to buy the cases and then put inferior cells inside.

Going forward the warning here was the claim to high capacity. That is why I felt it necessary to comment. If they had claimed 5600mAh or 6200mAh I probably wouldn't have even bothered.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

andychrist said:


> Anyone looking for a top of the line battery pack for their new Yinding should check out MagicShine's 4 cell, 4400mAh MJ-828,


This is fine battery indeed. The only problem is, velcro band have fragile plastic buckle: it's better to replace it with some metal one.

BTW, Amazon description "_with LCD Capacity Display_" is incorrect: it's just voltmeter, not capacity meter. But handy anyway...


----------



## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> About the link to the "Stupidbright" battery; Bells and whistles going off when I looked at those. Sometimes things are too good to be true. Product description describes both the 6400mAh and the 8800mAh sealed battery as ( both ) being 4-cell 18650. While possible to have a 4-cell 6400mAh it's not possible to have a 4-cell 8800mAh battery pack using 18650's. Possible with 6-cell and 8-cell batteries but not four.


It's possible for 4.2 volt lights (parallel connection of four 2200 mAh cells), but it can not be a 8.4v then, of course. Most likely, a typical misleading ad. to just attract the naive customers...


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

For those searching for a cheap combo, these are best bang for your buck:

NITECORE Intellicharger I4 : $15.99 USD after coupon "NI4"

Samsung ICR18650-26F : 4 for $14,97 after coupon "BLF"

All togther with box+charger+batteries= $41USD

Easily cheaper and better than having a battery pack shipped from ebay/other sites

Just remember the samsung 26F are unprotected, do your reseearch on how to handle them safely


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

My XM-L2 Yinding has just arrived and I'm happy to say that visually, quality seems on par with the "original" XML that was sent previously. Turning them both on side by side, the XM-L2 seems a little brighter and both have the same fade out driver.

Tonight, I will try to head out to the trail and get my standard beam shots and then dissamble it and take photos. If there are any requests for beam shots from the lights I have, let me know.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

would the complete pack be a good stand alone light? It looks like i should select natural white and not black right? (this differentiates the tint and not the paint color of the unit?)

I have no mounting equipment, magicshine batteries, compatible chargers. I do have a 4A 5V usb powerbank though.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

jokaankit said:


> would the complete pack be a good stand alone light? It looks like i should select natural white and not black right? (this differentiates the tint and not the paint color of the unit?)
> 
> I have no mounting equipment, magicshine batteries, compatible chargers. I do have a 4A 5V usb powerbank though.


In my experience the set battery is decent enough to get you 2.5 hours on high of use and everything is included, ready to run, right out of the box. Of course as you ride more you will want to upgrade the battery and charger. Mine is one year old with light use and as good as day one. The battery and charger are the weak links.

The "Black" is the XM-L2 T6 1A (cool white) and the "Natural" is the XM-L2 3C (neutral white). I've asked the listing to be corrected and according to Dora the changes are with the editor. I've run my 1A as a stand alone and had no complaints on slow technical familiar Singletrack. I kept it mostly on low with a few step ups to Medium on the technical sections. Keep in mind that the neutral will be a little less bright than the cool white yet will give a better color rendition that's easier on the eyes. Hope this helps.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Thanks GJHS. So this can go on either helmet or handlebar. 

It seems the orders are prepared after the pre-sale date is reached ("natural white")?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

jokaankit said:


> Thanks GJHS. So this can go on either helmet or handlebar.
> 
> It seems the orders are prepared after the pre-sale date is reached ("natural white")?


With the optics in the Yinding, it makes a better bar light. As your light inventory grows, add a helmet light with more throw or switch the optics in the Yinding to a tighter pattern.

Yes, at the end of the presale, the money is collected and the orders ship out.


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## neabue (Jan 5, 2011)

GJHS said:


> With the optics in the Yinding, it makes a better bar light. As your light inventory grows, add a helmet light with more throw or switch the optics in the Yinding to a tighter pattern.


I preordered two neutral white 3C yindings, planning to use one on helmet and one on bars, switching the optics on the helmet to a 10 degree lens as mentioned in this thread http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/yinding-sources-908389.html

Does anyone else have any experience using a yinding as a helmet light with tighter optics and know if it would have enough throw, or should I hold out for the SSX3 or XT40 if they come out in a 3C tint? Also, does anyone know what kind of lens (degree of spread) come stock on the yinding? It sounds like whatever they are works well enough as is for a bar lamp. Thanks!


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## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

which optics should we be looking at for this yinding?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

neabue said:


> I preordered two neutral white 3C yindings, planning to use one on helmet and one on bars, switching the optics on the helmet to a 10 degree lens as mentioned in this thread http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/yinding-sources-908389.html
> Does anyone else have any experience using a yinding as a helmet light with tighter optics and know if it would have enough throw, or should I hold out for the SSX3 or XT40 if they come out in a 3C tint? Also, does anyone know what kind of lens (degree of spread) come stock on the yinding? It sounds like whatever they are works well enough as is for a bar lamp. Thanks!


Yinding should have enough throw either for helmet or bar lamp. It is also the matter of personal preferences. Some prefer it more narrow, some don't like it. I'm using 2nd generation of Yinding for helmet light. Not shure if the original has same optics, though. Changing to 10deg ones should give you even more throw. Or you can combine the optics: one 10deg and one 15deg (assuming it is stock one) if this suits you the best. There is no need to have both optics with the same angle.


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## csermonet (Feb 2, 2009)

Does anyone have a source for optics for this light? I'd like to combine a 10/15 on one side and like a 45 on the other


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok Guys, here are the beam shots of the new XM-L2 T6 Yinding with the XML Yinding to compare

XML Low







XM-L2 Low







XML Medium







XM-L2 Medium







XML High







XM-L2 High








Since people asked about running two, so I took two different beam shots. 
Both on the Bars High







This one surprised me, so to answer the question can I use two, one on the bars and one on the helmet, I say Yes!








Here is the XM-L2 T6 on its own from a different angle so you can see the beam and how much light is put on the front tire.
XM-L2 Low







XM-L2 Medium







XM-L2 High







XML on the Bars and the XM-L2 on the Helmet. Both on High and a nice combo.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Nice job GJHS!

Okay, so I have a really stupid question. Is it possible to run one of those wide angle diffuser lenses over the Yinding's optical lense? Or do those only work in reflector type set ups? Reason I ask is, as mentioned, it is possible to use two different angles of lenses so have one for throw and one with spill. This sounds great but I imagine in reality you'd end up with a bright spot inside a softer halo, which would be not all that effective and kinda distracting. Thinking with both lenses the same degree and a horizontally oriented diffuser over just one of the LEDs you'd get a broad field of illumination with less noticeable halo around the bright center spot (at least haloing should be mitigated top and bottom.) Again don't know if this is possible in a non-reflector design; maybe there are horizontal optical diffuser lenses available somewhere that would fit the Yinding? Am pleased with the design of my MagicShine MJ-816, the one with the Mickey Mouse XP-Gs clad with little diffusers beside the XM-L U2 center spot, the beams blend in pretty well together. XM-L generates its own halo but that is drowned out where the XP-Gs overlap it. Only troubles with the MagicShine, they chose the brightest thus coolest and most blue XP-Gs for the ears, and there is no Strobe mode for urban settings. Hoping to set up the Yinding for use on my get-away bike, for riding between city and country. Advise? Thanks.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

I like more spread to my lights. As a helmet light I currently use a low quality yinding with one original lens and one 25 degree lens. I like it more when the light does not have a too accentuated spot. I bought my optics from leddna.
CREE - XM-L - LEDDNA

I'm really looking forward to see how the 3C tint lights turns out. I have 1dm snow (superwhite and superblinding) outside my window right now.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

@andychrist, there is no reflectors in this light, but TIR lenses. So no halo efect or similar, no difuzer needed, but you can experiment with different angle lenses to get beam of your choice. You can try also eliptical ones from Action-Led, but I'm not 100% shure if it fits. Someone in the USA should prove that. For me is too expensive to get it here.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I forgot to point out my review of the battery case we were discussing here in this thread. Take a look at: http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...tant-4-x-18650-battery-case-bicyc-943638.html


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

ledoman said:


> You can try also eliptical ones from Action-Led, but I'm not 100% shure if it fits. Someone in the USA should prove that. For me is too expensive to get it here.


Thanks ledoman! That looks like exactly the kind of lens I am after. Will have to verify that the MJ-880 takes the same size as the Yinding, which appears all over to be a clone of that MagicShine except for the battery connection.

Of course the important advantage of an elliptical lens over simply a wide angle one is that it does not waste lumens spreading them up into the sky or down onto your front wheel, only across your path where you want them. So figure placing just one of these in a Yinling and you'd have both a spot with good throw and wider field of illumination on either side. Hmm, might have to swap out the other lense of the Yinling too with a narrower angle, if the ones it comes with are too broad. Anyone know the angleº on the lenses shipping with the Neutral Yinling? Thx.


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## csermonet (Feb 2, 2009)

Has anyone who pre-ordered the Yinding received theirs yet? I got my shipping confirmation, complete with a picture of my particular package before it was sent out. I'm getting a little anxious, mostly from the excitement of getting my first light set up, can't wait to go on the local night rides! 

Once I receive it, do any of you more experienced guys suggest that I take it apart to make sure everything is done proper? I.e. seals, o-rings, thermal paste etc. Just wondering if it would be smart to disassemble and make sure everything is proper before I use it. 

Also, I plan on fully charging my battery pack and doing a test to see how much run time I will get on high power. Is there any technique for doing this? Or is it pretty much just sit next to it and wait for the low battery indicator to come on? I will make sure to have a fan blowing on the light head too so it doesn't overheat.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I have my copy, see beam shots above. I don't think that you need to take it apart unless you feel as if you need to. I plan to take mine apart and I know Ledoman is soon to get his and will confirm quality as will a few other members. In fact I'm waiting to get other members input so there is no issue of me getting the only good copy. Taking apart each one may be a bit much. If you want to, just be careful not to strip the screws.

In my previous Yinding and TiGeo's the battery lasted 2.5+ on high. To test it, set it up in front of a fan and make sure it's getting enough cooling air then let it run on whichever setting you want until it turns off.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Im new to bike lights also, I wouldn't disassemble it. GJHS and GB have done a lot of work to get the lights set up. If for some reason someone gets a poor quality one, I'm sure it would get posted here. I personally think we will see some sweet beam shots and not lame electronics.

I'm curious about shipping times it seems the shipping times would be shortest for 1A bulb< 3C bulb< 1A pack< 3C pack. Im not sure how many weeks that translates to?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Thank you for your trust. Normally, you should always take it apart to make sure. The only reason I suggest not to now, is because we should have plenty of regular MTBR Members who will do that for you. Enough to get a good, wide sample of the batches. It's not tough to take this light apart, just be delicate with those small screws.

Transit time is a tough one to call. On the East coast of the US, I would say a month+ for free shipping, 15-20 days express PostNL and 3 days DHL if shipped out fast. Plan on the longest and hope for the shortest. This isn't just GB, it's the same for all Chinese sellers. Right now the 1A light heads and sets should be in stock and on the 5th the 3Cs should come in. I'm not sure how many 3Cs she ordered so some may wait another week if demand is higher than the initial order.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

GJHS said:


> It's not tough to take this light apart, just be delicate with those small screws.


Its the putting back together thats hard. Especially when the tiny threads are stripped from the factory. :madman:


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

znomit said:


> Its the putting back together thats hard. Especially when the tiny threads are stripped from the factory. :madman:


The hardest part for me was the screws holding the pill and the back cover. I had to use pliers to get them started.


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

I don't have one of the Yinding's from Gearbest. I got it from FastTech. I have an original Yinding, but one of the lower quality ones with the bad connector, bad battery and bad bar mount. But the internals were all good. Originally, I was VERY disappointed with the Yinding compared to my original, good Solarstorm X2. The light output was just so dim that the SSX2 completely washed out my Yinding and I couldn't see my Yinding at all on the trail. So I started tearing both apart to see what was going on. The SSX2 had XM-L. The Yinding had XM-L2.

Apart from output, the colour temperatures were very different. First thing I did was get a set of 4 matching XM-L2 emitters. I got 3B tint. I reflowed them. Happy as now colour temperatures wree identical. But output on both appeared less than original (to the naked eye)

So I decided to open and measure everything. I found out that the Yinding is driving the LED's at only 1.5A. Whereas my SSX2 was driving the LED's at 2.4A. This accounts for why the SSX2 is so much brighter. The SSX2 on medium was 1.6A, so the Yinding on high was still dimmer than the SSX2 on medium.

So I did some research and realized that a simple sense resistor mod would increase output current. After waing a month for the resistors to arrive from FastTech, here are my results:

Yinding: Added one R270 resistor, Increased output to 2.4A (from 1.5A). Using a light meter, I went from ~790ux to ~1150lux output. After 3 minutes, with a 80mm computer fan on, the case is at 51.9 degrees C
SSX2: Added two R170 resistors, Increased output to 3.0A (from 2.4A). Using a light meter, I went from ~1200lux to 1300lux output. AFter 3 minutes, with a 80mm computer fan on, the case is at 52.6 degress C

I am now VERY happy with my Yinding after going to a neutral tint emitter and increasing current to 2.4A. I may even boost it a little more as I only ride at night in the winter early in the morning. 

I am not as impressed with the SSX2 mod as it seems there is very marginal improvement boosting output from 2.4A to 3.0A. But that is to be expected as there is diminishing returns the higher the output you go. I may bring it back down to 2.4A just to improve runtime. IN fact, I am considering buying one of the original light-head only in this thread, boost to 2.4A, and get ride of my SSX2 for a much lower profile and lighter light head on my helmet.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

@neons97
Cool! If you do such a Yinding modification again I would love to see some pictures of how to do it.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

neons97 said:


> I don't have one of the Yinding's from Gearbest. I got it from FastTech. I have an original Yinding, but one of the lower quality ones with the bad connector, bad battery and bad bar mount. But the internals were all good. Originally, I was VERY disappointed with the Yinding ... I found out that the Yinding is driving the LED's at only 1.5A. ...
> 
> I am now VERY happy with my Yinding after going to a neutral tint emitter and increasing current to 2.4A....
> 
> ...I am considering buying one of the original light-head only in this thread, boost to 2.4A,...


That sounds odd, I thought the Yindings could deliver 2500mA. Wonder if the board in your original was standard at the time or maybe just a fluke. Hoping that the circuitry on the new Yindings shipping with XM-L2 U2 3C will reach least 2.5A, maybe GJHS has already measured the current levels on his XM-L2 T6 Yinding? (Hint-hint.)


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

That 2.5A is likely total (1.25A per LED). I think neons97 wants 2.4A per LED. 4.8A IS A LOT for this little light to handle. 

-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yikes!, that would be a scary lotta Amps for that little lamp. But the SSX2 is manufacturer rated at 2 - 2.5A circuitry, am supposing that must be total, not per LED? And neons said it was still a bit brighter than the Yinding after he had modded the latter. Aren't these LEDs always wired in series in any 8.4v system? Maybe n97 can clear this up cause I am so confused now!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

They are not always wired in series. In fact, I think I prefer them to be in parallel as it provides voltage overhead (to get past LED vF issues). Hopefully neons97 chimes in and clarifies. 

-Garry


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

*So which light is better?*

so is there currently another light that puts out more light, more throw, flood etc. I dont think tint is a deciding factor for me. I keep seeing others mentioning the ssx lights being a better light when looking at how much it puts out. Is this yinding preferred just for its size, tint and lens customizability?


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

jokaankit said:


> so is there currently another light that puts out more light, more throw, flood etc. I dont think tint is a deciding factor for me. I keep seeing others mentioning the ssx lights being a better light when looking at how much it puts out. Is this yinding preferred just for its size, tint and lens customizability?


Yinding uses TIR lens so the projected light is much smoother, and yes easily changeable lens in 10/15/30/45/60 degree

looks good and much smaller too


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

*None* version SSX2 can be better than Yinding in terms of lumens by it's design. Of course there are variations of each. There are variations in leds, electronics, batteries (neone didn't mention any power source setup - was the same?), heatsinking, wires, etc.. and importantly in optics. You can't compare apples and pears just like that.

Giving the leds and power are the same and electroncs provide same current the SSX2 can have more concentrated light because of the reflectors giving more lux in it's hot spot while Yinding has TIR lenses and more evenly spreaded beam thus looks less bright (ie. lower lux), but still give more lumens.

People you have to distinct things: *lux* is the* intensity* while *lumens* is the amount of light *flow*. Please read: Light Output Measurements - Flashlight Wiki

So the lux tells you about the brightest *point* not the area you need to light up. The lux would tell you about throw and nothing about the amount of light. You can have pencil wide beam bright as a hell, but is completly useless for MTB and a lot of other applications.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

I interpret this as:
Yinding on the bars, SSX2 on the head.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

One of the key points with this "original" Yinding is the direct thermal path to the body (no use of pills). That's the most appealing aspect to me. 

-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

ARandomBiker said:


> I interpret this as:
> Yinding on the bars, SSX2 on the head.


There is no single answer. Use the correct lenses of your choice and you can have Yinding suit any need, while SSX2 can't.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

It was more an comment on the stock beam pattern, comparing where each would be best suited 'out of the box'.

My GB Yinding shipped on Christmas Day, should be here in the next week or so. I'm quite anxious to have a new toy in-hand.

Next, I'd like a lightweight light with a very tight beam pattern for the helmet to compliment the wider beam of the Yinding on the bars, but that's another thread 
Back in the old days (like the 90's) I had a NiteRider setup (halogen!) with a small spot light on the head, it was really nice to have a light pointed where I was looking.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

ledoman said:


> There is no single answer. Use the correct lenses of your choice and you can have Yinding suit any need, while SSX2 can't.


I think, it would be quite handy to see here a list of different TIR optics directly compatible with Yinding without any modifications.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> One of the key points with this "original" Yinding is the direct thermal path to the body (no use of pills). That's the most appealing aspect to me.


+1.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

ARandomBiker said:


> My GB Yinding shipped on Christmas Day, should be here in the next week or so. I'm quite anxious to have a new toy in-hand.


Hope you'll receive it soon. How long was GB order processing time, BTW?


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## BJHA (Jan 3, 2015)

Hello and a warm thank`s for all the great work and knowledge you are sharing. 
Because of you I am sitting outside in the cold with my mailbox waiting for my three Yindings to arrive.
A friend has a Lupine Piko which I think is a superb light and I hope the Yinding will compare but to a better price. 
Your discussion about lenses is interesting and I did a search on similar lights.
Lupine Piko: 22°
Lupine Lighting Systems - Products ? Headlamps ? Piko X4 / X4 SC / XDuo / X7 ? Specifications
Gloworm: 2 Optic system (Spot/Flood) 
Gloworm Performance Products - Gloworm X2 LED Light System (1500 Lumen)
Gemini: 15°
DUO LED Light System | Gemini Lights


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

ARandomBiker said:


> It was more an comment on the stock beam pattern, comparing where each would be best suited 'out of the box'.
> 
> My GB Yinding shipped on Christmas Day, should be here in the next week or so. I'm quite anxious to have a new toy in-hand.
> 
> ...


If you like tighter beam patterns for the helmet you can still have that. Many good single emitter ( larger reflector ) lamps out there with some excellent throw. If you want that it's not hard to find.

I used to want tighter throw as well but over the years the technology has progressed to the point where it's no longer necessary to limit helmet lamps to tight beam patterns. It's very much possible now to have a small helmet lamp with decent throw and a wider beam pattern as well. Need I say, a slightly wider beam pattern coming off the helmet helps eliminate that, "Dancing ball effect" you get with the tighter beam patterns.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

-Archie- said:


> Hope you'll receive it soon. How long was GB order processing time, BTW?


I ordered it on the evening of the 20th, it shipped on the 25th.
so in china that was the 21st & 26th. it took a few days. I got the email with the picture and tracking #, but that didn't work for a more few days. I sort of just let it ride, knowing how sketchy package tracking is from Asia. it all seems in order now. 
I'm sure it'll show up soon enough. I'd rather it take it's sweet time and arrive in one piece. I've seen/read/heard a few horror stories of customs deciding that the contents were dangerous, and making them safer by cutting cords, or breaking things inside.
I'm gonna be ROYALLY pi$$ed if that happens.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

For those interested in swapping optics, head over to the original http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/gemini-duo-clones-876449-15.html thread. There is a lot of info discussed there including this optic which many used successfully

10 Degree 21mm Reflector Collimator LED Lens For Cree XML XM-L LED - LEDDNA

And even a remote button Remote Mini DIN Finger Ring PTT Plug Button for Two Way Radio Pro Throat Mic | eBay

I found that even with the original optics, the Yinding had a decent throw.


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> That 2.5A is likely total (1.25A per LED). I think neons97 wants 2.4A per LED. 4.8A IS A LOT for this little light to handle.
> 
> -Garry


Hi all,

My Yinding and SSX2 are both run in series. I am measuring the amperage at the LED's (not at the battery). So I am getting 2.4A per LED on the Yinding with the modifications and 3.0A per LED on the SSx2. None of my lights are pulling 4.8A. That would be insane. Both lights are running at (roughly) 6.6V (series) and 2.4A total for the Yinding and 3.0A total for the SSX2. Giving each emitter 2.4/3.0A.

To clarify my setup:

Both lights have been upgraded with Hobbyking 20GA silicone wiring internally.
Both lights have the input lead upgraded with 20GA wire and a magicshine-type plug (not the solar storm screw-type plug)
Both lights were run/tested on the exact same battery, balance charged between each test.
The Yinding has an 8" input lead. The SSX2 has a 12" input lead (so slightly more resistance on SSX2, but not by much)
Both lights had the stock reflector/optics (I do have the LEDDNA 10,15,25,45 and 60 optics also for the Yinding)

Battery:
HobbyKing Lipo
2s2p
6800mah (8000 rated, but only 6800 actual cycled on a hobbyking charger)
Each individual cell has a PCB that limits charge to 4.2V and discharge to 2.85V
I balance charge my pack each and every single charge
The pack was balance charged between each test to ensure (as much as possible) the same initial voltage

In the testing:
Lights were mounted on stock mount, to a head-band mount.
Head band mount was sitting on my desk, lined up to the edge of the desk
80mm computer fan was put 6" to the left side of the light
LUX meter was sitting 4 ft. in front of the desk, held in place by my bicycle repair stand clamp
The lux meter was about 6" higher than level with the light (lowest my bike stand could be lowered)
Light was tilted up until the LUX meter stopped increasing
LUX meter has a recording function. I recorded at 4 second intervals for 50 intervals (total 200 seconds).
The measurements I posted below were the figures at the end of 200 seconds

On the trail, the SSX2 kills the Yinding in stock configuration. And supported by the measured stock amperage (2.5A SSX2 vs. 1.5A Yinding). If you search my posts on the "gemini clone" thread, you will see me complaining about my Yinding to no end when I first got it.

After the modifications, the two lights are now very similar on the trail. With the SSX2 being more throwy and the Yinding more floody (as expected with refelctor vs. optics). In fact, the SSX2 barely changed in visible output (but changed in measured LUX) on the trail between stock and modified (maybe because it was already so bright). But the Yinding is a whole new beast and now is as good as my SSX2 overall. In fact, it's so good at 2.4A that I'm wanting to get one of these to replace my SSX2 on my helmet with some super spot optics. And put one on my bar with a 25/45 flood optics. This would save a bit of weight, be lower profile on my helmet and provide longer runtimes.

My measurements are in LUX. I only have a LUX meter. I do not have the proper professional equipment to accurately test lumens. So LUX is the best approximation I have. And it suits what I was trying to do to measure if there is a change in the modifications I made. The fact that in both cases, the modification increased the LUX, at least I know the hot spot of both lights are improved, which one would extrapolate that the spill area is also increased as well (proportionate or not, I don't know). However, in no way was I trying to say LUX is the same as Lumens. And as I said above, on the trail, the Yinding at 2.4A output, it seems on-par with my SSX2 outputting 3.0A, which supports ledoman's claim that the Yinding design, all things equal, should provide more lumens than SSX2 design.

Here are pictures of my Yinding and SSX2 stock, before emitter upgrades, wiring upgrades, or resistor modification to increase amperage. Both pictures taken back-to-back. Mounted side-by-side on a handlbar on a work stand (i.e. equal height). Both lights levelled with a level to ensure they were pointing the same direction. The only difference is that one light is about 6" are apart and not in the exact same location. It was about 5 degrees celcius out that night, so heat/cooling wasn't an issue. Pictures taken with a Nikon D5100, manual, as per the same settings as the MTBR light shootout tests (other than zoom length to fit my backyard, but identical for both shots below). I have yet to take the same pictures with all the modifications as it is now winter out and snow covered, which would change the images considerably.

It is pretty evident that in complete stock, out-of-the-box condition (using the same Lipo battery), the Yinding is inferior to the SSX2 in both throw and spill (and I would hazard to guess, total lumens).

Yinding (added a 10 degree spot optic. The "15" degree label in the photo is what I believe stock is, and is the stock optic)








Solarstorm X2


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Thanks for that detailed explanation, n-97. Yeah I see what you meant by the difference in color temperature. No surprise the SSX2 would have washed out the YD U2X2. 

Look forward to seeing the shots you promise post mods... and of your new YD too.

Funny but the MJ-816 on my country bike features an almost Neutral XM-L2 U2 high beam and a pair of diffused, bluish Cool White XP-G satellites, giving that setup about the same color combo as you've got going on between your two lights there. Fortunately the beam patterns on the MagicShine are well enough balanced/blended that the difference in tint is not too conflicting when running combo mode, but switching back and forth between the two LED classes there is definitely something strange going on. Can't wait to play with the Neutral XM-L2 Yinding I have on order...


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

The stock SSX2 definitely looks brighter, but it also looks like a bit more glare. Some steps on the yd mod would be greatly appreciated by those interested in it. That might include me after seeing the after pic


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

@neon97, I wasn't arguing with you directly, it was more to the people being confused now suddenly SSX2 is better and to distinct lux from lumen. Of course your explanatin now adds the most elements previuosly missing to understand the whole picture. I think, guessing of course, you have had much luck with SSX2 and maybe bad luck with Yinding. I've got about 8 versions of SSX2 going through my hands and later ones were disaster. The first batches were much better. Taking pictures of the inner stuff (driver, heatsinking) of yours SSX2 would tell me more to compare with the ones I've seen.

From your pictures it can be seen Yinding has just a little bit more neutral tint than SSX2. Also what I'm missing is the bin of the leds. You could get by a luck very good XM-L U2 with SSX2 and XM-L2 T6 with Yinding whic could differ for about 14%. Still this is my guess and it can happen in real life. Mostly we are talking about things on average (U2 has 7% more lumens than T6 on average).

Now moded ones when you compare tells you Yinding is bit better with 2.4A vs 3.0A (if we let aside better optics) in terms of effciency. This would be even more important on a longer run time when SSX2 would overheat (3A is way over its limits) and the amount of light would decrease significantly while with Yinding would not drop much. I'm talking about runnig them during the ride. Running them still would overheat both at normal outside temperatures (20degC).

What would also like to add here is long term use. Mostly no one is talking about this. Runing leds at higher temperatures (ie. higher current without adequate change of heatsinking) would lead into slow degradation of their performance and would shorten their lifetime. If we apply this fact to the SSX2 at 3A to the leds and with fairly frequent use it should degrade in some time. Of course this is not such a big issue. You just buy another better light, but want people to know what can happen and why heatsinking is important.

There is a whole bunch of aspects to consider if we go into details. Of course not all are very important and with most lights we can ride but is in our nature we want the best, highest, brightes, whatever..... the perfect one, which does not exist anyway.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

My budg-o setup is an original Yinding on the bar and a SSX2 on the helmet...they both work great in these applications. My only rub is that the tints are different but honestly, its not that big of a deal.


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

ledoman said:


> @neon97, I wasn't arguing with you directly, it was more to the people being confused now suddenly SSX2 is better and to distinct lux from lumen. Of course your explanatin now adds the most elements previuosly missing to understand the whole picture. I think, guessing of course, you have had much luck with SSX2 and maybe bad luck with Yinding. I've got about 8 versions of SSX2 going through my hands and later ones were disaster. The first batches were much better. Taking pictures of the inner stuff (driver, heatsinking) of yours SSX2 would tell me more to compare with the ones I've seen.
> 
> From your pictures it can be seen Yinding has just a little bit more neutral tint than SSX2. Also what I'm missing is the bin of the leds. You could get by a luck very good XM-L U2 with SSX2 and XM-L2 T6 with Yinding whic could differ for about 14%. Still this is my guess and it can happen in real life. Mostly we are talking about things on average (U2 has 7% more lumens than T6 on average).
> 
> ...


Hi Ledoman. No offense taken. I just wanted to be clearer to help those who could benefit as I learned a lot on here and Budget Light Forums.

My SSX2 has the HX-1289 driver. One of the earlier "good" ones. Not the really good ones with the torroid. It was originally marketed as XM-L T6. The Yinding was marketed as an XM-L2 U2. Neither listed the tint.

Based on my LUX meter measurements, the Yinding is still dimmer. But out on the trail, they are very close now. Obviously the SSX2 has a very tight throwy beam while the Yinding with the 10 + stock optic is still slightly wider than the stock sSX2 reflectors. Now that output has increased on the yinding, I will likely put the 25/45 optics in it. But not before I take some outdoor beam shots in the same location (maybe tonight) to ensure as close of a comparison as I can.

The thermal path on my SSX2 is pretty good. I have the pills, and not the PCB's. Still, the Yinding is better thermal path despite emitters mounted a PCB. The SSX2 after 200 seconds, LUX decreased 7% and maintained stead after that. The Yinding decreased 5% and maintained steady after that. So the Yinding does have less thermal sag, which indicates better thermal path. And my temp probe shows that the Yinding also has a slightly lower temp as well (by less than 1 degree C). But that is a SSX2 at 3.0A each and Yinding at 2.4A each. However, of the two, the SSX2 could use thermal path improvement more. The good thing is that the SSX2 can be modded to improve thermal path dramatically using common supplies (and a lot of work an ingenuity). I really can't see how I can improve anymore on the stock thermal path on the Yinding. After I get my second Yinding, I may try to mod the SSX2 with some copper to improve thermal path and change to optics to see what that does.

I only night ride in the winter, so I usually use these lights at 5 degrees celcius down to -20 celcius. I would agree that running these at +20C would very likely overheat both on high. My Yinding is currently mounted to a go-pro mount. I may try to use an aluminum go-pro mount to use the go-pro mount and bar mount as a heatsink.

After moding my Yinding and liking it, I just pre-ordered a lighthead from this thread to see if I can replace my SSX2 with this one on my helmet to save some weight and gain some runtime.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Thanks neons97. Yes, the same, I wanted to clearify all aspects as much as I can. 
Funny you got SSX2 T6 while Yinding U2. But with chinese lights you never know what exactly you get most of the time. I think you've got lucky with SSX2. Can't remember any other reasonable thing ;-). Hopefuly this Yinding would be exactly the one as described.

The only thing I can think of to improve Yinding thermal path is to use leds on the copper PCB.

OK I admit SSX2 can be improved a lot by give it proper thermal path. I've also managed to mod one lousy variant with TIR lenses. I've taken pills and leds from MJ880 clone and luckily it fit all together. But that was the version of SSX2 with no heatsinkig - only 20mm PCB stars sitting on the lips with no thermal compound, of course.

Looking forward to see your modifications. On the last stages I might experiment with the sense resistors (like I did on many others), but I do ride also on higher tempertures than you and need to take this into acount. If the driver is the same as on the page 6 (LEDA chip and sense resistor R100) then there is already sufficient 2.5A to the leds.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

@Neons97

Can you measure Low/mid/high currents (after 30 sec) for the upgraded Yinding on the battery side? And can you confirm that it is not overheating in low mode at room temperature without air cooling.

thanks


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

ARandomBiker said:


> I ordered it on the evening of the 20th, it shipped on the 25th.
> so in china that was the 21st & 26th. it took a few days.


Thanks. My order (placed Dec 29) is still in "processing" state now, but maybe it's because of NewYear holidays or the like. At least, it was not cancelled by GB as previous one...



> I've seen/read/heard a few horror stories of customs deciding that the contents were dangerous, and making them safer by cutting cords, or breaking things inside.
> I'm gonna be ROYALLY pi$$ed if that happens.


What?!? I've never heard anything like that. What country you're living in?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> Thanks. My order (placed Dec 29) is still in "processing" state now, but maybe it's because of NewYear holidays or the like. At least, it was not cancelled by GB as previous one...


I haven't spoken to Dora since Monday. I was so surprised at how long that western New Year's has shut down China. They closed longer than we did here in the states.

Tonight, I will try to find out about the Neutral Yindings, since they should be finished and hopefully ready to ship. I will also get an update on the Neutral SolarStorms.


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

Took a couple shots tonight of my modified SSX2 and Yinding. I got the zoom wrong, so I'm not 100% happy with the shots for comparison purposes. However, I am very happy with my light output.

Again, the modifications in short on both are:
SSX2: XM-L2 T6 3B Tint (pre-mounted on 16mm bases), 20GA silicone wires, current resistor mod to increase from 2.4A to 3.0A per LED
Yinding: XM-L2 T6 3B tint (reflowed onto stock PCB). 20GA silicone wires internally, current resistor mod to increase from 1.5A to 2.4A per LED

While the SSX2 modified clearly has a hotter centre spot (see stairs to trampoline), the Yinding has a lot more light up close and more spill. This is with the 10/15 degree optics. But the two are very close now. I will try the 15/25 combo and the 25/45 combo given how hot the SSX2 centrespot is. I'll see how well this runs on the trail for a week or two and then see if I can push the Yinding any further. With an additional R470 resistor, I got it to 2.8A. But I took it off to try it at 2.4A first. Given that I'm riding in -5 to -20 weather for the next 2-3 months, I may go 2.8A and see how the temps are. If I recall, the Yinding is 33/66/100 output, so running it on medium at 2.8A setting would give me about 1.9A. Which would be perfectly fine in the summer.

SSX2, stock, on high








SSX2, modified, on high








Yinding, stock, on high








Yinding, modified, on high


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

bhocewar said:


> @Neons97
> 
> Can you measure Low/mid/high currents (after 30 sec) for the upgraded Yinding on the battery side? And can you confirm that it is not overheating in low mode at room temperature without air cooling.
> 
> thanks


I'm back to work tomorrow, so I won't have time to crack the lights open and play around with them for a couple more weeks. With high now at 2.4A, if I recall correctly, low was ~0.8A per LED. There should be no overheating on low without a fan at this output.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Nice Job neons97, thanks for sharing all the upgrades and taking some photos.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Wow, the modified Yinding and SSX2 come so close after the mods. Great throw and spread from both; those Neutral White XM-L2 emitters are plenty bright and the colors look amazingly accurate. Think this might be the first time anyone here has posted side-by-sides of Cool White versus Neutral so thanks a million, neons97.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/best-nuetral-led-mountain-biking-943154.html#post11656399


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## hernluis (Nov 16, 2008)

Does any one know if the xtar charger is being discounted if you also buy this light? I remember an earlier post where a deal was mentioned.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Please be aware that your Back order has been automatically cancelled after 24 hours without payment authorization. 

Is there a back order? Not sure why I got this a day after confirmed payment? I guess I should reorder.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

the i4 charger is back on sale from banggood w/ NI4 code. I dont know if a xtar charger package was made. But you could always buy it and use the $5 off $50 code you get for signing up with GB.

Now that my order has been cancelled I might just pick everything up separately, I'll hunt for some batteries. I'm hoping that would allow me to get the lights in a reasonable time frame.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

hernluis said:


> Does any one know if the xtar charger is being discounted if you also buy this light? I remember an earlier post where a deal was mentioned.


It was, I will confirm all the info tonight and report back. The XTAR is way better than than the Nitecore. The Nitecore chargers only charge at .5A making for a very slow charge on 18650s, while the XTAR charges up to 1A.

The 3C Yindings aren't ready yet, I will report when tonight. I'm sure all of this will go out before the very long two week Chinese New Year Vacation.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

jokaankit said:


> Please be aware that your Back order has been automatically cancelled after 24 hours without payment authorization.
> 
> Is there a back order? Not sure why I got this a day after confirmed payment? I guess I should reorder.


It seems you've got exactly the same result as in my first attempt to buy from them - details here: http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...ing-yd-2xu2-found-941540-16.html#post11658860

Probably, something is seriously wrong with GearBest preordering system. In my case, I've decided to try again: finally, second order (placed Dec 29) is shipped today; hope everything will be Ok...


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Hi guys! I'm happy I can report some details to you about the first batch of Yindings some of you are supposed to get. Got it today to add to the GJHS reports.

*In a few words it is all OK as it supposed to be*.

I've taken quite some pictures, but it is a lot of work to publish them all in a short time so I've pick just few of them. I've also made some quick comparation with "KD2" and 2nd gen. Yinding I already had.

From left to right KD2, GB Yinding, 2ndGen Yinding. 

















The housing is as on the other pictures and it is nicely sealed. Even the mount is nicely sealed and can be rotated for 360 degrees. 









They are all same housing size, has XM-L2 but all have different mount and lenses. 









Tint of the leds. I would say GB Yinding has about 1D. KD2 is about 1A and 2nd Gen.Y about 4B (it is purely my guess). Would do another comparation when I get neutral 3C Yinding and hopefuly KD2 too. KD2 is in reality pure white and not so blueish, but it's not far away.

















When comparing only KD2 and GB Yinding the difference is more noticeable.









On full it pulls 13.2W but I do have some looses in the wireing.









Front cover off shows leds and lenses









Drivers are very similar to the KD2 and I think they are interchangable which is very nice.









KD2 driver









GB Yinding driver









That's all for now. I hope it adds some for better feeling.

Forgot to tell, it is freezy outside , some snow on the ground and full moon, so the pictures of the beams would be shity. I can only tell the beam is more near to the KD2, just a bit more narrow.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Thanks Archie, I'll try paypal again. Also, I'm assuming I will get the same exact item even after presale has ended.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks for your report ledoman! Can we increase output with a simple sense resistor mod? Will KD2 10 step programmable driver fit then? (That's the one you're showing there, right?)

-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Garry, I can answer with yes to the both questions. You can easily see the sense resistor in last two pictures right to the FET. To be 100% shure the drivers are interchangable I would need to use caliper, but from looking they are the same size. Even most elements including holes and wires are on the same positions.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

I replaced my order, but realize what the issue archie and I might have had. It could have been a time out issue during paypal checkout. That said my second order came out to 40.17 instead of 39.17 The checkout system is still really buggy.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Minus the programmable driver, is the KD better? 

Build quality, thermal transfer, waterproofing, and tint are better on the Yinding? So if Yinding would only listen and add a similar 10 step programmable driver or better, the Yinding would clearly be best. 

Or if KD built their clone better, with better thermal transfer, including thermal paste, made it waterproof and gave it a more natural cool white tint it would be better and probably more expensive.

So best would be to buy the Yinding and hopefully add a better driver, maybe the KD driver or a stepless driver?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

jokaankit said:


> I replaced my order, but realize what the issue archie and I might have had. It could have been a time out issue during paypal checkout. That said my second order came out to 40.17 instead of 39.17 The checkout system is still really buggy.


Write [email protected], explain the issue and confirm your order is OK.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Thanks GJHS


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

Comparing back with the KD2 thread, it looks like the KD board drives the LED a little harder than the Yinding. Is that correct? Or is it about the same when the wire loss you mentioned is taken into account?


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

ledoman said:


> Garry, I can answer with yes to the both questions. You can easily see the sense resistor in last two pictures right to the FET. To be 100% shure the drivers are interchangable I would need to use caliper, but from looking they are the same size. Even most elements including holes and wires are on the same positions.


Hi Ledoman,

On the GB Yinding, what is the stock resistor used as a sense resistor? I can't quite make out the values on the chip. I"m just trying to see if I have the right resistors on hand to modify if I wanted to. I have some R120, R270 and R400's already.

Thanks,
Jeremy


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

It is R100 for GB Yinding and R110 for KD2. If you need more detailed pictures you can find them here on the page 6 and on KD2 thread.

Neons97 for yours mostly rather cold environment you can try to do resistor mod (R500 should raise current to 3A), but for normal temperature conditions *I would not advise anyone to raise the current* unless you take care of heat when runing it. It adds to much to the heat and very little to the brightness. You might even not noticed it. Leaving as is it should deliver 2.5A to the leds, sufficient for that small housing.

In fact I must admit it is the first budget bycicle light I've got in years that doesn't need any modification. OK a bit thicker cable would not do any harm and driver modes can be discussed, but it can easily stay just like it is.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

jokaankit said:


> Thanks Archie, I'll try paypal again. Also, I'm assuming I will get the same exact item even after presale has ended.


You're welcome. Good luck!


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

ledoman said:


> In a few words it is all OK as it supposed to be


Many thanks for reporting that! :thumbsup:



> From left to right KD2, GB Yinding, 2ndGen Yinding.


It looks like GB light has coarse finish of the case if compared with two others, isn't it?

Also, I've probably missed some information about "2nd. generation Yinding". What it is? And what is the difference against "1st. generation"? Where it was bought from?


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

ledoman said:


> In fact I must admit it is the first budget bycicle light I've got in years that doesn't need any modification.


But then, where is all the fun???


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> It looks like GB light has coarse finish of the case if compared with two others, isn't it?
> 
> Also, I've probably missed some information about "2nd. generation Yinding". What it is? And what is the difference against "1st. generation"? Where it was bought from?


Ya it looks as if his case was a little rough. Mine arrived ok, so not all are rough.

The Yinding story started in 2013. A great well built light that was cheap and super bright. When orders were at their highest, around November, we were told that the factory was out of stock and was making more. When we got this newly made batch, everything was cheaper, the mount, the lenses, and the connectors. As time went on the quality got worse and there were no good ones to be found. The first of those new Yindings we call the 2nd Gen. That's why this thread is so important because the original, well built Yindings were found. What you see now from GB is the original quality of this popular light.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

-Archie- said:


> Many thanks for reporting that! :thumbsup:
> It looks like GB light has coarse finish of the case if compared with two others, isn't it?


It might be. I didn't look it closely. My sample has some imperfections, though. But it is almost free of charge, so I can't tell. It might be I've got the preproduction sample or whatever.



-Archie- said:


> Also, I've probably missed some information about "2nd. generation Yinding". What it is? And what is the difference against "1st. generation"? Where it was bought from?


Yes you might miss it. It's long story GJHS explained. I've got mine from Wallbuys.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Appel said:


> But then, where is all the fun???


We can now finaly start to ride


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## bianchifan (Feb 13, 2010)

I would say GB Yinding has about 1D. KD2 is about 1A and 2nd Gen.Y about 4B (it is purely my guess).
GBs YinDing is announced as 1A although it looks like 1D.
KD2 doesn't look so much greenish, so I guess it may be 0A.
The right one looks very similar to my actual X2 which runs 3Bs with original reflectors.

All in all this Yinding seems to be a very nice and tiny light with a tiny mount and I'm happy for ordering.

Although this is no X2 thread some annotations..
My X2 is driven with 2,4 A on high, that's right. IMHO too much, so 3 A is more than much too much https://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/smilies/eek6.gif
1,8 A should be okay.
My X2 galleries on abload and Mtb-news.de


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> The Yinding story started in 2013. A great well built light that was cheap and super bright. When orders were at their highest, around November, we were told that the factory was out of stock and was making more. When we got this newly made batch, everything was cheaper, the mount, the lenses, and the connectors. As time went on the quality got worse and there were no good ones to be found. The first of those new Yindings we call the 2nd Gen. That's why this thread is so important because the original, well built Yindings were found. What you see now from GB is the original quality of this popular light.


Thanks for explanation. I was aware of low-quality clones and copies, but didn't knew Yinding itself was doing that...


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

ledoman said:


> I've got mine from Wallbuys.


I've seen it, but haven't ordered because of junk battery: AFAIK, there wasn't head-only option at that time.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

@bianchifan, yes you might be right about tints. Since I didn't have others at hand to compare tint with, that was my closest guess. Forgot to compare to some the other lights, though....

You must have an old good SSX2 variation as far as I can see on the pictures. Still aditional heatsinking is good to do. BTW, which TIR lenses and from where did you use? 

Neons97 usually uses these lights at 5 degrees celsius down to -20 celsius, so he can afford to run them at higher currents.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok, good new and not so good news. Dora is changing departments and will no longer be handling lights and flashlights. In her place will be May ([email protected]) who will now handle lighting and handle all requests and issues. So write her with questions and problems, she is very sweet. 

If you have a request for something, post it now. I'm working on the combo deal, so please post your desired components. In thinking XTAR VP2, SolarStorm battery box and maybe some Nitecore batteries. If you want something else tell me. The 3C Yindings should be done today or tomorrow and you know the drill by now . I'm with the first snow peeps so its a forum day.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Today I've made another tint comparation with MJ880 clone using XM-L2 U2 1C leds. There is minimal difference in the tint to the GB Yinding declared 1A tint (not the neutral one). It is hard to say exact but Yinding should be around 1A-1D. Just slightly pleasant yellow breathe over the KD2 very cool white. I like it. Shurely I'm waiting to see how 3C turns out.


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

ledoman said:


> @bianchifan, yes you might be right about tints. Since I didn't have others at hand to compare tint with, that was my closest guess. Forgot to compare to some the other lights, though....
> 
> You must have an old good SSX2 variation as far as I can see on the pictures. Still aditional heatsinking is good to do. BTW, which TIR lenses and from where did you use?
> 
> Neons97 usually uses these lights at 5 degrees celsius down to -20 celsius, so he can afford to run them at higher currents.


ledoman is right. I definitely will not be running my SSX2 at 3A in the summer. I would run it on medium, and only high for very short bursts. I don't think I will be ramping up my Yinding beyond 2.4A. But my Yinding came out of the box at 1.5A which was disappointing on the trail.


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

First off, thanks so much GJHS for putting this together. I asked in another thread about 2 months ago why these companies just can't put together a good build and everyone would buy it? I got slammed and was told that was what the good companies do and if i want this, to spend a lot more money to buy their lights. This is exactly what I was looking for and I appreciate all the work you put into this.

I ordered 6 lights. I have a Yinding clone, an SSX2, a new XT40 (love that light) and wanted to get some better Yindings as I love the size. Now the only bummer part. I bought 4 lights for friends of mine that will use the lights much more for evening walks on the trails than biking. These are the first lights I have seen with such short leads! My wife and I go out on evening walks and throw the batteries in our pockets and I can't do this with all of these lights. Great for the bike as the leads have always been too long (on the bars at least), but not good for the application I bought them for. Ugh.

I take it the Magicshine extensions will be what I need to make these longer? Not looking forward to having to buy 5 of these, but oh well.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

dawgman25 said:


> First off, thanks so much GJHS for putting this together. I asked in another thread about 2 months ago why these companies just can't put together a good build and everyone would buy it? I got slammed and was told that was what the good companies do and if i want this, to spend a lot more money to buy their lights. This is exactly what I was looking for and I appreciate all the work you put into this.
> 
> I ordered 6 lights. I have a Yinding clone, an SSX2, a new XT40 (love that light) and wanted to get some better Yindings as I love the size. Now the only bummer part. I bought 4 lights for friends of mine that will use the lights much more for evening walks on the trails than biking. These are the first lights I have seen with such short leads! My wife and I go out on evening walks and throw the batteries in our pockets and I can't do this with all of these lights. Great for the bike as the leads have always been too long (on the bars at least), but not good for the application I bought them for. Ugh.
> 
> I take it the Magicshine extensions will be what I need to make these longer? Not looking forward to having to buy 5 of these, but oh well.


There was some talk of extensions with the Yinding sets, I will follow up. Maybe we can get some cheap for those who bought the set if they're not included. I put the XM-L2 Yinding on the supplied headband and put the battery in the top of my pack without any extension.


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

Thanks, if they can offer a cheap extension, that would be great. No idea the leads would be so short! For the bike, it is great, just not for most other applications. They might want to mention the length of the lead as most lights come with a much longer lead.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

I'd say don't bother trying to make a battery case, charger, and battery bundle with GB. They don't carry the quality Panasonic, or Samsung cells most of us want. We know the KeepPower batteries have good guts, and I'm pretty sure the Nightcore are probably not bad either. But GB's prices on batteries are just not competitive.

For example, lets go with their cheapest known to be of good quality battery:
KeepPower 2200mAh 3.7V 18650 Protected ICR Lithium Rechargeable Battery
4 @ $6.69 = $26.76 = a single 4400 mAh Pack

Compared to:
Samsung ICR18650-26F 18650 3.7V 2600mAh Rechargeable Lithium Batteries (2-Pack) over on FastTech
2 (2-Packs) @ $7.86 = $15.72 = a single 5200 mAh Pack
Apply the BLF coupon code and it's $14.94
4 (2-Packs) @ $7.37 (Bulk Discount Rate) = $29.48 = 2 x 5200 Packs

That's 10400 mAh of night riding goodness for $2.72 more than a 4400 pack made with GB's least expensive, acceptable quality cell. Do any of you have a better deal than that?

I really appreciate the effort that GearBest and GJHS have gone through to give us the quality lights we asked for, and almost everything could want. But I don't think a battery deal from GB, with the current cells they stock, is worthwhile.


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

And for extension cord... just get them from Lightmalls, they are $2.2! or $3 anywhere else.


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

epic-gamer said:


> For those searching for a cheap combo, these are best bang for your buck:
> 
> NITECORE Intellicharger I4 : $15.99 USD after coupon "NI4"
> 
> ...


Just bringing this up again


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Ok, if you want a request out of the blue- how about 4 or 5 brightness levels with a click up, press down operation similar to this driver-

STAR Advanced Momentary Switch LED Driver

It allows an easy drop in brightness if you're creeping up a hill, and an easy jump back up. You can also drop way down to levels you can use to fix a flat or stow the bike in the car, read a book, whatever. I build all my lights with these.



GJHS said:


> Ok, good new and not so good news. Dora is changing departments and will no longer be handling lights and flashlights. In her place will be May ([email protected]) who will now handle lighting and handle all requests and issues. So write her with questions and problems, she is very sweet.
> 
> If you have a request for something, post it now. I'm working on the combo deal, so please post your desired components. In thinking XTAR VP2, SolarStorm battery box and maybe some Nitecore batteries. If you want something else tell me. The 3C Yindings should be done today or tomorrow and you know the drill by now . I'm with the first snow peeps so its a forum day.


----------



## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Update: The Cool White Yindings, both head light only and set, have been sold out. More stock is coming in 15 business days.

The Neutral White Yings have arrived. The first 60 light head only orders will be shipped soon. The rest will come with the new stock in 15 business days. The set orders will be shipped soon and there are 20 more sets still in stock. So if you need one fast, order the set while they're in stock.

I didn't speak with Dora last night, I just received an message this morning with the info so I dont have more info as to why it will take so long to get more. She also wrote that the extensions are coming, again I didn't get to respond to her message so tonight I will hopefully get a chance to get more information.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ian_C said:


> I'd say don't bother trying to make a battery case, charger, and battery bundle with GB. They don't carry the quality Panasonic, or Samsung cells most of us want. We know the KeepPower batteries have good guts, and I'm pretty sure the Nightcore are probably not bad either. But GB's prices on batteries are just not competitive.
> 
> For example, lets go with their cheapest known to be of good quality battery:
> KeepPower 2200mAh 3.7V 18650 Protected ICR Lithium Rechargeable Battery
> ...


So a deal on the charger and box, no?


----------



## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Ok, if you want a request out of the blue- how about 4 or 5 brightness levels with a click up, press down operation similar to this driver-
> 
> STAR Advanced Momentary Switch LED Driver
> 
> It allows an easy drop in brightness if you're creeping up a hill, and an easy jump back up. You can also drop way down to levels you can use to fix a flat or stow the bike in the car, read a book, whatever. I build all my lights with these.


I think at this point, after several attempts, I can safely say neither factory is willing to change the driver. It's definitely not for lack of trying, Dora has asked every time and gotten a No. I will ask her to ask again. It may be easier to get a Yes if someone can send me a link to a driver that perfectly replaces the original.


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

epic-gamer said:


> And for extension cord... just get them from Lightmalls, they are $2.2! or $3 anywhere else.


Thanks! Just ordered 5 of them. Very fair price. Looking forward to my first ride tonight with the new lights! Yinding on the bars and an XT40 on the helmet!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

dawgman25 said:


> Thanks! Just ordered 5 of them. Very fair price. Looking forward to my first ride tonight with the new lights! Yinding on the bars and an XT40 on the helmet!


Prepare to be amazed


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

GJHS said:


> I think at this point, after several attempts, I can safely say neither factory is willing to change the driver. It's definitely not for lack of trying, Dora has asked every time and gotten a No. I will ask her to ask again. It may be easier to get a Yes if someone can send me a link to a driver that perfectly replaces the original.


No worry, it was just a suggestion. I'll let you know if the 10-level KD driver replaces the original perfectly when I get them- it's a start.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

See my pictures on previous page. I think KD2 driver is perfectly match. Will take caliper later on to 100% prove it. It is just the toroid to need enough place.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

ledoman said:


> See my pictures on previous page. I think KD2 driver is perfectly match. Will take caliper later on to 100% prove it. It is just the toroid to need enough place.


I'm thinking the Yinding and SolarStorm factories won't buy them from KD nor spend more time tracking down which one they use, if it fits, where to buy it, set up a deal with the supplier, order and change their set up to accommodate the new driver. These are not big factories, we're lucky they agreed to change the emitters twice. I don't even think Gemini or Dinotte would make these changes on such small batches. Remember they're charging $24 a light head

I will ask again


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

OK. I didn't think of that. I was just looking if it is technicaly possible. The one who likes it much more can still buy driver from KD at $8 price mark.

EDIT: Compared drivers with caliper and they are interchangable. There is difference with switch height and silicone button used. But this is not a problem if you either cut the switch or silicon button. Or if you are changing drivers between the lights, you can also change the silicone button too.








Full size picture -> HERE


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## jeanphi500 (Nov 5, 2014)

I received my Yinding this morning!

I was part of the first batch. It was shipped on the 27/12 so I'm amazed by the little time it took to reach Belgium.
I ordered the head only with the free Solarstorm battery case.
Both received!

First impressions: damn this thing is really tiny and light! A quick trial in the driveway and I'm really impressed. I did not expect it to be so good. Beam is wider while throw is still good...

According to me, the tint is not that cold. At least it is not at all blueish.

Sorry didn't have time for measurements or comparison with the other lights I own.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

jeanphi500 said:


> I received my Yinding this morning!
> 
> I was part of the first batch. It was shipped on the 27/12 so I'm amazed by the little time it took to reach Belgium.
> I ordered the head only with the free Solarstorm battery case.
> ...


Ya if you've never seen one in person your first reaction will be "Wow that's small" as mine was. Pictures don't show it well enough. I'm glad you're happy, now you see why it was and still is so popular.

I'm glad the lights are arriving, thanks for posting your pics and impressions here for those still waiting.


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## pacmanfan (Jan 8, 2015)

I've read the last few pages, but am left wondering what the current state of the lights are. I would like to order one and have it in hand before February; are they in stock now, or backordered? Did I understand correctly that neutral versions are due any day?


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Hi pacman I suggest you place order now regardless. The update I got from May: The 3C lights have taken longer than expected and will be reaching us today or tomorrow. We will be shipping them in 2-5 days. 

However, she couldn't assure me my order would be completed in this first batch. I ordered the combo pack during pre-sale. Hopefully, GJ is right about the stock, and May is just preparing me in the event of a back-order. Good luck pacman, I can recommend you look into the x40 and ssx3 as the presale will be ending for that, and it might be a few days quicker.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

This is a seriously small light and I remember when I got mine I was shocked when I opened the "gift box"...ahahahahah. Its a little powerhouse though!


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## pacmanfan (Jan 8, 2015)

jokaankit said:


> Hi pacman I suggest you place order now regardless. The update I got from May: The 3C lights have taken longer than expected and will be reaching us today or tomorrow. We will be shipping them in 2-5 days.


What are the 3C lights?


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

pacmanfan said:


> What are the 3C lights?


3C is the Neutral White tint (in this context, of the Yindings.)


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## pacmanfan (Jan 8, 2015)

I see a "neutral white" version listed on GB, I will probably go ahead and order it. Are the included 18650 cells protected?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

pacmanfan said:


> I've read the last few pages, but am left wondering what the current state of the lights are. I would like to order one and have it in hand before February; are they in stock now, or backordered? Did I understand correctly that neutral versions are due any day?


The Yinding comes in two tints: 1A is Cool White, the color you normally see on most bike lights and flashlights. 3C is Neutral White, which is yellower, has better color renditioning and should be a little less harsh.

The Cool White Yindings, both head light only and set, have been sold out. More stock is coming in 15 business days.

The Neutral White Yindings will hopefully arrive today. The first 60 light head only orders will be shipped soon. The rest will come with the new stock in 15 business days. The set orders will be shipped soon and there are 20 more sets still in stock. So if you need one fast, order the set while they're in stock.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

So what I am hearing going forward is, there will be a choice on their site for either the cool white or neutral white?


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

TiGeo, GB is ordering another batch of both tints. I think they intend to sell both versions. I checked what they did with similar offerings, and it seems they are selling both cool and Neutral versions for other lights as well.


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## pacmanfan (Jan 8, 2015)

Thanks for the advice, guys! I ordered a kit for neutral white, which is the tint I want anyway. If I don't like the battery pack, I will just upgrade that later.

TiGeo, that seems to be the case. The choice is on there right now, even.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

pacmanfan said:


> Thanks for the advice, guys! I ordered a kit for neutral white, which is the tint I want anyway. If I don't like the battery pack, I will just upgrade that later.
> 
> TiGeo, that seems to be the case. The choice is on there right now, even.


I think you may be pleasantly surprised, the previous packs with the Yindings were good for 2.5+ hours on high and I've had mine a year.


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## pacmanfan (Jan 8, 2015)

GJHS said:


> I think you may be pleasantly surprised, the previous packs with the Yindings were good for 2.5+ hours on high and I've had mine a year.


My concern is safety. I would feel much more comfortable if at least the pack was protected. I will be quite cautious when charging!


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

So, GearBest posted a picture of the package with shipping label on it, and a tracking number....2 weeks ago today. As of 8pm in AZ, I've got no lights (GB lists avg ship time to be 6-14 days), but more importantly to me, my tracking number is STILL invalid. I'm starting to get frustrated and a little worried. Do I have reason to be?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Which shipping method? NL Post? If so that's normal. You won't see tracking updated until it hits the Netherlands. GearBests shipping is slow. 

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I agree, PostNL and tracking is difficult. Are you using 17track.net to track it? If your worried, write May


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

It's a race! Also shipping to AZ. Shipped on 12/25 and tracking # has been "pre-advised" at NL Post since 12/31.


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## circusubet (Aug 5, 2006)

*Order, Ship And Received The Box Today*

It really is a race! Another AZ order. I ordered a light-head and battery, box and light-head. Received the box today....

Below is when I ordered and they "shipped" 12 26 14?

Order Date	Order No.	Order Total	Order Status
12/20/2014 04:31:06 AM	W1412191
$14.96	Shipped out 
Track your Shipment

12/20/2014 04:20:17 AM	W1412191
$30.90	Shipped out 
Track your Shipment

12/20/2014 04:12:14 AM	W1412191
$50.99	Shipped out 
Track your Shipment

Thx
John


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## jeanphi500 (Nov 5, 2014)

Arrived first in Belgium, I won the race


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## eTrex_FSR (Dec 18, 2009)

Hello,
the tracking is almost useless I would say. I ordered on the 22nd of December the Solarstrom BatterieBox and a light set. The box arrived today, even the tracking shows that it still has not arrived to the destination country... lets see when my light set will arrive. I guess you need to be a bit more patient. Good luck!



ARandomBiker said:


> So, GearBest posted a picture of the package with shipping label on it, and a tracking number....2 weeks ago today. As of 8pm in AZ, I've got no lights (GB lists avg ship time to be 6-14 days), but more importantly to me, my tracking number is STILL invalid. I'm starting to get frustrated and a little worried. Do I have reason to be?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

jeanphi500 said:


> Arrived first in Belgium, I won the race


Congrat :thumbsup:. Now since you have won the race you have privilege to report it back with small user review so all others would be even more impatient. 
I mean you don't need to take it apart, just how do you feel using it.


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## jeanphi500 (Nov 5, 2014)

Hi Ledoman, I know I know 

Actually already posted about it in #525...
I'll try to make trail pictures and a comparison with my SS X3 XML2 (the one overheating... and it reminds me I have to display the results of the thermal pictures and measurements I did. Quite appealing).


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Sorry, I've forgoten it. Still pictures would be nice since here is snow on the ground and the pictures would be useless.
Looking forward to see your measurments of SSX3.


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

Can someone enlighten me what kind of driver this lamp actually has. Is it a linear regulator or a buck driver or what. How efficient it is supposed to be before and after dropping out of regulation for too low battery voltage? Would it run nicely with for example 6x (too low voltage for staying in regulation I guess) or 7x eneloop pack, just in case I feel like using less dangerous chemistry for some use cases?

I am a bit worried lamp not staying too long at regulation with some of my current packs, that's why efficiency with too low voltage is interesting. That being about like direct drive would be great.


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## Pedal/Paddle (Nov 3, 2005)

I am mostly a lurker, just want to say thanks for all your hard work to GJHS.

Received my first complete set yesterday (1/8) in Orlando, FL via SingPost shipped 12/26, should get second set today. Still waiting on light head only via NL post, tracking number shows only "despatched" still.

First impressions:
-Wow! you people weren't kidding when you say how small it is. Awesome form factor.
-overall quality A+
-runtime test this morning: ~2:15 until the red light started blinking. I stopped there, thats good enough for me.
-beam pattern in my hall last night looks great. Nice and smooth, good balance between flood and throw.

Very happy, great value. 5 stars.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Glad people you are happy, it's a great light. Thank you guys for posting your impressions and little reviews, it helps confirm consistent quality. I'm grateful for your kind words and reputation points given. Thank you and Whew! I'm glad that worked out


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

So what do we think the actual lumen output is for these?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yes I'm quite happy too. Well, except the one thread of the front screw already weared out. I've dissasembled it few times already. :eekster:



XCJagge said:


> Can someone enlighten me what kind of driver this lamp actually has. Is it a linear regulator or a buck driver or what. How efficient it is supposed to be before and after dropping out of regulation for too low battery voltage? Would it run nicely with for example 6x (too low voltage for staying in regulation I guess) or 7x eneloop pack, just in case I feel like using less dangerous chemistry for some use cases?
> 
> I am a bit worried lamp not staying too long at regulation with some of my current packs, that's why efficiency with too low voltage is interesting. That being about like direct drive would be great.


The driver is buck and it stays in regulation until voltage drops under the sum of Vf. So if you are worried about that take care about voltage drop all the way down from batteries to the driver. Using *6S2P* eneloop pack would give you 6x1.2V=7.2V at 1A (2A for the whole pack) down to 1.5h of runtime until voltage starts to drop significantly. I've taken data for a single cell from HKJs web page. Taking into acount Vf of the XM-L2 is 3.25V at 2.5A (85degC junction temp) you need 6.5V to stay in regulation. So there is 0.7V left to be lost in the cabling, connector and the driver. I guess this is about true if you use thicker/shorter cable and good connector. Unfortuantely the connector is as is (electrical not the best), so you are left on cable to the battery (thickbness , lenght).
7 eneloops in series would be probably to much. Fully charged voltage would be 10.5V way over 8.4V declared input voltage.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

ledoman said:


> Sorry, I've forgoten it. Still pictures would be nice since here is snow on the ground and the pictures would be useless.
> Looking forward to see your measurments of SSX3.


Ledoman, maybe you didnt step outside the house today, but it got windy and warm. Tomorrow will all the snow melt down.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Wish I Were Riding said:


> So what do we think the actual lumen output is for these?


Since we don't have instruments to measure that we can only do some calculations and assumptions. 
Plain leds are runt at 2.5A so can theoreticaly gives out 2x 840Lm at max. (U2 bin at 85degC junction temp) when properly cooled. Of course we don't get the max out of it unless you are very lucky. The light is small so I think it is bit overheated even when riding (we need to take into account temp of the led junction not the housing or any other part). I can assume there are some looses because of heating 10-20%. 
Then there are some looses in optics. We don't know the manufacturer of the lenses. At best they are 80-90% efficient.

All in all we can be happy if there are only 30% looses (in higher temperature environments even more). So 2* 840 * 0.70 = *1176 Lm at best*.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I ordered the original with xm-l2 1a tint, light head only. I paid extra for the tracking option and to have Singapore post. I learned my leason with the Solarstorm X3 that the tracking on Netherlands post is complete garbage. Those NL tracking numbers don't even work for at least one week and then it shows pre-advised for another week or two. Takes four weeks total to get to the east coast of America. 

Meanwhile, the Yinding with the Singapore Post option with extra tracking was already in San Francisco on January 2 and I should have it tomorrow or Monday. I think that's only two weeks! A vast improvement over Netherlands shipping.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Not at all surprised when I contacted GearBest. Basically got the standard response 'So sorry, if it doesn't arrive in 31 days you can file a claim and we will try to find it".

Guess Chinese light roulette applies to more than batteries and thermal paste.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

ARandomBiker said:


> Not at all surprised when I contacted GearBest. Basically got the standard response 'So sorry, if it doesn't arrive in 31 days you can file a claim and we will try to find it".
> 
> Guess Chinese light roulette applies to more than batteries and thermal paste.


Who did you contact, May or Dora? What is the problem?


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## bianchifan (Feb 13, 2010)

Mine arrived yesterday, too 
Compared to my Magicshines the housing is worked out a little less perfect.
Looks a little like crash-dump-CNC. But it's ok, absolutely!
Tint? Coolwhite, no visible colour, nearly perfect.
No sharp spot borders, perfect throw, same class as my cateye triple shot.



ledoman said:


> BTW, which TIR lenses and from where did you use?


The ones on the photos were lended from my cateye, should by Carclos ??



neons97 said:


> But my Yinding came out of the box at 1.5A which was disappointing on the trail.


I didn't test yet but it looks like.
IMHO it's enough for this little thing.
A little disappointing is the differnce between the steps, I do not see much sense in the middle step, perhaps 10% less than high



XCJagge said:


> Would it run nicely with for example 6x (too low voltage for staying in regulation I guess) or 7x eneloop pack


I'm not familiar with eneloop but I do think both is poosible, with 7s you will have 1/6 more energy compared to 6s 
For I still have no 3s LiIon my TripleShot is running on 10S1P NiMH (Original Cateye).
10s maybe too much, last year I fried a MS808-Clone-Driver on high (indoor, no cooling)
You mustn't be too afraid of the chemistry, LIIon isn't LiPo.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

varider said:


> I learned my leason with the Solarstorm X3 that the tracking on Netherlands post is complete garbage.


Seems so. IIRC, formerly it worked just fine - but it was with goods ordered from Netherlands to Estonia. As I understand, contemporary problems are related not to the NL as such, but merely to separate company dealing with Chinese packs shipped to the Europe, somehow affiliated with NL post...


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

Yea! My Neutral Yinding has shipped! We'll see how long it takes to reach Western Canada.


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## eTrex_FSR (Dec 18, 2009)

I received my shipment notice as well this morning. Let's see how long it will take to Spain


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## Memristor (Dec 18, 2014)

Is there anyone here with shipping confirmation for the entire set (neutral LED + batterypack)?


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## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

At last a tracking update on my order. its "at the PostNL sorting centre" 
standard emitter version, dispatched on 27th.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Woo hoo, just received words this morning that both my Neutral White Yinding and NW XM-L2 MJ-880 clone + SolarStorm battery boxes have shipped from GB and KD respectively. It will be a beautiful Spring, thanks GJHS!


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Who did you contact, May or Dora? What is the problem?


I contacted May, she seemed very polite, but unable to help in any way. My problem is that no one has any info, or anyway to get that info. It could have fallen off the cart and into a corner, We don't know because the tracking number is invalid. 
Im irritated that in 2015 its still possible to have no idea where a package is en route from China to America. 
Edit: I keep saying invalid- the actual message from 17track.net is 'Not Found' which includes the possibility that it never entered the system for shipping. 
Going to the actual PostNL.post website and entering the tracking # returns "barcode not found", although the # has the correct format and number of characters.
At this point I'm leaning toward 'it slipped through the cracks'. But can't say for sure

I can see how my post could read as petulent, I'm not really butt-hurt. I am somewhat frustrated though.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

There is never a perfectly smooth path in tracking packages shipped from overseas. On various occasions I have received either no tracking number from the vendor or it was reported Not Found. Sometime later the item might appear in Tracking somewhere but would always dissappear from those results once handed off to Domestic, where the number would have to be re-entered with the local delivery agent. Then there is the black hole of Customs, where an item may be held for as little as a day or two or as long as... well, indefinitely. Only after your package has cleared Customs might you receive any indications of its whereabouts, if only because the delivery guy has just rung your bell. A complete tracking history will of course become available after you have signed for the item.

So don't sweat it!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

bianchifan said:


> Mine arrived yesterday, too
> Compared to my Magicshines the housing is worked out a little less perfect.
> Looks a little like crash-dump-CNC. But it's ok, absolutely!


Can you post a photo here of the case or PM. Mine have been perfect and there hasn't been any previous complaints with the Original, so I want to make sure there isn't a problem. If so I will forward it to Dora


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

ARandomBiker said:


> I contacted May, she seemed very polite, but unable to help in any way. My problem is that no one has any info, or anyway to get that info. It could have fallen off the cart and into a corner, We don't know because the tracking number is invalid.
> Im irritated that in 2015 its still possible to have no idea where a package is en route from China to America.
> Edit: I keep saying invalid- the actual message from 17track.net is 'Not Found' which includes the possibility that it never entered the system for shipping.
> Going to the actual PostNL.post website and entering the tracking # returns "barcode not found", although the # has the correct format and number of characters.
> ...


When did it officially ship?


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## inch (Feb 6, 2014)

ARandomBiker said:


> I contacted May, she seemed very polite, but unable to help in any way. My problem is that no one has any info, or anyway to get that info. It could have fallen off the cart and into a corner, We don't know because the tracking number is invalid.
> Im irritated that in 2015 its still possible to have no idea where a package is en route from China to America.
> Edit: I keep saying invalid- the actual message from 17track.net is 'Not Found' which includes the possibility that it never entered the system for shipping.
> Going to the actual PostNL.post website and entering the tracking # returns "barcode not found", although the # has the correct format and number of characters.
> ...


That's Post NL's I have exactly same issue with an (unrelated) order from Fasttech. Try this website: Home | PostNL for tracking.


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## ThrottleAbuse (Jul 2, 2010)

Holy cow this thread blew up. So it seems these are a hit. Can someone provide the correct link to order this light setup? I am going to be pairing it with my NiteRider Pro1800 mainly so which light color should I get?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

ThrottleAbuse said:


> Holy cow this thread blew up. So it seems these are a hit. Can someone provide the correct link to order this light setup? I am going to be pairing it with my NiteRider Pro1800 mainly so which light color should I get?


They were so popular that they all sold out and are back ordered. New stock comes in 10-15 business days according to Dora. You can order, just be aware that they won't ship until they're done. yinding Gadget Deals + Free Shipping | GearBest.com coupon "Yinding"

Let that be lesson to the power of listening to the forum's needs.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

As requested, here are the extension cables, if needed. 5.4MM Male to Female Extension Cable for Yinding Cycling Headlights-2.10 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com


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## ThrottleAbuse (Jul 2, 2010)

Thanks for the quick reply GJHS. I am assuming the cool white models are the ones that we want because they are on backorder. I started to plow through the thread, but maybe you can give me a quick answer. I noticed the yinding may have changed lens. Is the yinding now more of a bar light? I was wanting one for a helmet light and was going to move my NR Pro1800 from helmet duty to bars. I like the small form and weight of the yinding. If its now a more of a bar light I will just keep rocking my XT40 on the bars and NR on my helmet.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

GJHS...can you ask what wire gauge is using this extension cable?

For those with NLpost tracking problems... I think that GB NLpost doesnt provide tracking and the number NLxy....z is not a tracking number but parcel number.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

bhocewar said:


> GJHS...can you ask what wire gauge is using this extension cable?


To me it looks pretty much the same as those at DX (20AWG), but cheaper


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

ThrottleAbuse said:


> I am assuming the cool white models are the ones that we want because they are on backorder.


Can't address your other questions but am pretty sure if the cool whites are on B/O it's simply because they were offered first and at the time there was no word that the Neutral would necessarily follow suit. Seems like those who received units from that first batch say the light is not too blue, but most still express a preference for Neutral White.


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## inch (Feb 6, 2014)

I need a rubber ring to mount the yinding onto my handlebar, does gearbest have those somewhere?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

They are all over the eBay


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## inch (Feb 6, 2014)

Found them! Water-tight Silicone Headlight Rubber Ring Flashlight Ring - 2 pcs-0.90 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

ThrottleAbuse said:


> Thanks for the quick reply GJHS. I am assuming the cool white models are the ones that we want because they are on backorder. I started to plow through the thread, but maybe you can give me a quick answer. I noticed the yinding may have changed lens. Is the yinding now more of a bar light? I was wanting one for a helmet light and was going to move my NR Pro1800 from helmet duty to bars. I like the small form and weight of the yinding. If its now a more of a bar light I will just keep rocking my XT40 on the bars and NR on my helmet.


They're all on backorder, Cool White and Neutral White. There is no change in lenses from the originals. The only difference would be the emitters, which are now XM-L2.

The Yinding was always more suited to bar use with the included optics vs a reflector. If your rocking a XT40 on the bar, you will see a big improvement of light put on the front tire with the Yinding. In my tests the XT40 had great throw just too much for bar use, there wasn't enough light under the front tire for technical stuff and drops. Ideal would be Yinding on the bars and XT40 on the helmet. Check out the beam shots on pages 5 and 18. The optics are easily changed to 10 degrees if you want more throw.


----------



## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

GJHS said:


> When did it officially ship?


According to GB, Dec 25th.


----------



## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

any order updates on neutral combo orders? It seems some light heads have started shipping.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

jokaankit said:


> any order updates on neutral combo orders? It seems some light heads have started shipping.


I don't have any updates. Since light heads sold out first not sets, there should be no delay.


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

For those shipping to AZ, my tracking just showed up on USPS. Woohoo!
January 10, 2015 , 8:21 am
Processed Through Sort Facility
AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

I jumped on this as soon as it popped up, being one of the first to preoder but mine is not shipped


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

epic-gamer said:


> I jumped on this as soon as it popped up, being one of the first to preoder but mine is not shipped


I will check it tonight, I know the waiting game is hard. I personally hate online shopping. If excited enought to order a new toy I want to be able to play with my new toy immediately. I really hope the world doesn't go the full online way.


----------



## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

I pre-ordered a neutral white light-head only on January 3rd (pre-order ended January 5th). There were 112 pre-orders ahead of me. 

GHJS said the first 60 arrived, and the remaining were due in 15 business days (i.e. 3 weeks...). But on January 10th, I got a shipping confirmation that my light has shipped! Did I get lucky?


----------



## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah, there were like 90-something orders ahead of mine too on the 29th of December, and I got shipping confirmation on the 10th of this month too. Where do I go to file a non-complaint? ;-)


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

That sounds like my story except that I preordered Jan 2nd and got a shipping notice the 10th too. Didn't notice how many preorders were ahead of mine. Maybe they goofed and shipped to the last 60 preorders and those that ordered early will wait longer! About time us procrastinators get rewarded!  

-Garry


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

Or this could be a case of good marketing where the pre-order counter started at 60 to drum up demand.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Maybe they're dyslexic :skep: 

Look at their name: GearBest ut:


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

It seems when i replaced my order i selected netherlandspost, instead of auto. Im hoping that will mean a faster transit time when it eventually gets shipped out. Wish I had selected insurance instead considering this might take a lot longer than 30 days, or better yet DHL FTW.


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## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

neons97 said:


> Or this could be a case of good marketing where the pre-order counter started at 60 to drum up demand.


the pre-order numbers were different on my phone and tablet.....


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## burnz (Dec 23, 2014)

garrybunk said:


> Maybe they goofed and shipped to the last 60 preorders and those that ordered early will wait longer!


Could be true. I ordered 2 and the 2nd Order (Dec. 31st) shipped today while the 1st Order (Dec. 25th) is still "Processing"


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Ordered Dec. 25th and got it shipped today via NL Post. It looks to me they shipped more or less randomly. Now I can wait till end of Jan. or even more.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Fourtrax said:


> For those shipping to AZ, my tracking just showed up on USPS. Woohoo!
> January 10, 2015 , 8:21 am
> Processed Through Sort Facility
> AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS


It just looked at my Solarstorm X3 shipment, it took week to get to Miami (from the Netherlands) and then another five business days to get to Virginia.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

I watched the pre-order numbers go up from the first day it went online. I think there were 20 when I first looked. When I checked just before the presale ended, the total of the full kits, and light heads only was just over 175. I'm willing to bet that's a LOT more than GearBest expected & a lot more than the manufacturer expected too.

By comparison, under 30 neutral SolarStorm X3s were preordered.

Now if I can just learn to sit patiently waiting for my new toys. It's almost as hard as for a kid waiting for Santa all through December.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

So I don't think too many folks are going this route, but looking for more input. Anyone have better links for 2cell battery packs that would work here? Reading this thread, I can only find one "build your own" style ( my preference )

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...2-cell-helmet-battery-case-review-942264.html

and then these 2 (full packs, can't use your own cells)

Xeccon Panasonic 2-cell 3400mAh Ultimate Li-ion Battery

and

Action-LED-Lights ? MJ-6008 2200mAh Waterproof Battery

Thanks in advance


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

FastTech has this 2 cell (parallel - but can be converted) which includes a free headlight  :https://www.fasttech.com/products/1941100 








I have one. It's a little cheap, but decent. The light itself is pretty crappy.

-Garry


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> I have one. It's a little cheap, but decent. The light itself is pretty crappy.
> 
> -Garry


Hey thanks- so it charges via that USB port, or do you charge the cells in your own charger? ( or maybe you _could_ charge using the pack, but would be smarter to charge on your own 

To change to serial, I would have to do some soldering, I assume. Not sure I'm into that....but it could possibly be arrainged. Thx for the input.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

No, it just provides a USB output, though I wouldn't trust it - at least not until it was verified and safe and reliable. I would just silicone it shut. I would charge cells in a separate charger. 

I'm not certain of the exact changes need to change to serial, but it shouldn't be difficult at all.

-Garry


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> No, it just provides a USB output, though I wouldn't trust it - at least not until it was verified and safe and reliable. I would just silicone it shut. I would charge cells in a separate charger.
> 
> I'm not certain of the exact changes need to change to serial, but it shouldn't be difficult at all.
> 
> -Garry


copy that. thanks again.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> I have one. It's a little cheap, but decent.


Seems interesting! The space allocated by USB part could be probably used for protection PCB if converting to 2s configuration. Is the case watertight?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

-Archie- said:


> Is the case watertight?


I haven't used it (just got it a couple weeks ago), but from memory I'd say it's at least water resistant. I believe there are o-rings at each end, but you'd have to silicone shut the USB opening and charge port. I don't remember the wire gauge either.

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

slcpunk said:


> So I don't think too many folks are going this route, but looking for more input. Anyone have better links for 2cell battery packs that would work here? Reading this thread, I can only find one "build your own" style ( my preference )
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...2-cell-helmet-battery-case-review-942264.html
> 
> ...


Check out the Fenix BA4C Battery Case, it's a quality case. It normally comes with the Fenix BT20 yet it can be order seperately for around $15. I read also that you will need to change the conector.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Sorry Guys, no update on the orders. Dora wasn't in last night to confirm anything, so I will try again tonight.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Check out the Fenix BA4C Battery Case, it's a quality case. It normally comes with the Fenix BT20 yet it can be order seperately for around $15. I read also that you will need to change the conector.


Can buy where? I have one (sent by a user who bugged Fenix for 5 or 10 of them), but have never seen them for sale separately. This particular user contacted Fenix again and they would not sell them anymore.

Yes the connector is opposite. And for the life of me I could NOT get to the internal wiring to even attempt to convert this to a parallel case! It is a very nice case though!

-Garry


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> I haven't used it (just got it a couple weeks ago), but from memory I'd say it's at least water resistant. I believe there are o-rings at each end, but you'd have to silicone shut the USB opening and charge port. I don't remember the wire gauge either.


Thank you!


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> Check out the Fenix BA4C Battery Case, it's a quality case. It normally comes with the Fenix BT20 yet it can be order seperately for around $15.


Do you have any link? I've never seen Fenix box to be sold separately, and online source would be greatly appreciated!


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

GJHS said:


> Check out the Fenix BA4C Battery Case, it's a quality case. It normally comes with the Fenix BT20 yet it can be order seperately for around $15. I read also that you will need to change the conector.


Fenix also has a really nice 2 x 18650 case I'd love to get my hands on for a helmet mounting. Check out the battery pack that comes with the HP30: https://www.fenixtactical.com/fenix-hp30.html


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

Googling for it makes it appear to be sold by some European, non-English sites. Ever since it came out, people have been interested, but unable to get them.

Perhaps if an internet retailer who happens to sell Fenix products approached the company, it might be more receptive.

I figure a female - female cable is the way to adapt the case to MS type connectors. Unless the cable is easy to change, and keep the strain relief.

Now Gary, if you don't want yours . . .


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

. . . or maybe we'll see the Chinese clone factories start producing them. 

-Garry


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

With the right end. Then it's not a complete copy (and would be more useful).


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## pacmanfan (Jan 8, 2015)

I placed my order for a neutral white kit on Jan. 8th, and just got a shipment notice!


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

yea looks like they just got the neutral white packages. I just got shipping info on my order. Good luck with your packages. Now lets see if Nlpost is really that bad


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok Guys, forgive the delay, with Dora changing departments, she is really busy and not as easy to reach. There were 90 Yinding 3C Lighthead only orders and only 60 were made. That means 30 people will have to wait 12 more days, give or take. I know some won't be happy, it's just the best they can do starting a new Neutral light and not knowing how many to order. What I have set up for people who have to wait is one benefit. The original Yindings came in three colors: Red, Blue and Black. If you have to wait, you can now choose the color of your choice, rather than just Black. Post your color choice here as soon as you can.

The reason that the some late orders were shipped before the earlier orders was explained. When you order on presale, the money is held by PayPal and not released until the presale is over. When the presale ends, PayPal sends the money for all of the orders at the same time and the orders are released as they are paid, so the original presale order means nothing. Again, maybe not a popular answer yet the honest answer. My samples are coming so I can show you what you're waiting for and confirm quality.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> The reason that the some late orders were shipped before the earlier orders was explained. When you order on presale, the money is held by PayPal and not released until the presale is over. When the presale ends, PayPal sends the money for all of the orders at the same time and the orders are released as they are paid, so the original presale order means nothing. Again, maybe not a popular answer yet the honest answer.


That's really funny! Every pre-sale campaigh I've ever heard of till GearBest story, was arranged other way around: people who participated in the pre-ordering earlier were served first, as soon as the goods become available...

Well, according to these news, it seems positive thing that GB has refused to fulfill my pre-sale order: that way, I'll get the item faster!


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## Memristor (Dec 18, 2014)

My Set with neutral LED is now shipped too.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

I noticed that CNQG has glass lenses that would fit the Yinding. Would glass lenses be better than the PMMA?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Probably, glass is more scratch-resistant...


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Umm . . . but then you'd need to add reflectors. I don't think you'd be able to swap to reflectors and lens that easily. I also think the TIRs are more efficient.
-Garry


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> Umm . . . but then you'd need to add reflectors. I don't think you'd be able to swap to reflectors and lens that easily. I also think the TIRs are more efficient.
> -Garry


And lighter too... If someone is looking for a reflector light the SolarStorm X2 is probably a better bet.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

It was my understanding that *Ian_C* was referring to the TIR optics made of glass instead of plastic...


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

-Archie- said:


> It was my understanding that *Ian_C* was referring to the TIR optics made of glass instead of plastic...


If CNCQ is saying they have TIR optics made of actual glass that is very likely a mistake as I have never heard of any made with glass.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

Archie is correct - Glass TIR Collimator LED Lenses.

Would the glass be more efficient than the PMMA? Do they handle heat better? (The descriptions mention High Current, which I assume would cause more heat.) Would they add anything else to the mix that would be noticeable? The glass are more expensive than the $0.40 LEDDNA plastic ones, by about $0.15 each when bought in 5's. (Except for the 15 Degree ones that are a lot more expensive because it doesn't have a 5 pack.)

5-pack 10 Degrees Glass lens for CREE XM-L T5/T6/U2 with Holder
1-Pack 15 Degrees XML 20mm LED Optical Glass lens
5-pack 25 Degrees Glass lens for CREE XM-L T5/T6/U2 with Holder
5-pack 30 Degrees Glass lens for CREE XM-L T6/U2
5-pack 45 Degrees Glass lens for CREE XM-L T5/T6/U2 with Holder
5-pack 60 Degrees Glass lens for CREE XM-L T5/T6/U2 with Holder


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Ian_C said:


> Archie is correct - Glass TIR Collimator LED Lenses.
> 
> Would the glass be more efficient than the PMMA? Do they handle heat better? (The descriptions mention High Current, which I assume would cause more heat.) Would they add anything else to the mix that would be noticeable? The glass are more expensive than the $0.40 LEDDNA plastic ones, by about $0.15 each when bought in 5's. (Except for the 15 Degree ones that are a lot more expensive because it doesn't have a 5 pack.)
> 
> ...


I would ask CNQG to confirm they are glass because my bets are they are not.


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

I bought a light head with Neutral White and a battery last night. This whole forum seems to gave gone DIY. I'm just hoping what I get is usable. Any idea how long the battery they ship with will last on high?


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## Pedal/Paddle (Nov 3, 2005)

Wish I Were Riding said:


> Any idea how long the battery they ship with will last on high?


I got ~2:15 when the button started blinking red (was solid red before that, didn't get the time) on the first one (not neutral). I haven't checked the second one yet.


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

Pedal/Paddle said:


> I got ~2:15 when the light started blinking red (was solid red before that, didn't get the time) on the first one (not neutral). I haven't checked the second one yet.


That's more than reasonable for me I would think. Thanks. I hope this light really delivers all it seems it might.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

It starts to dim before red light indicator turns on. So true runtime on high should be around 1h30min.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

kwarwick said:


> If CNCQ is saying they have TIR optics made of actual glass that is very likely a mistake as I have never heard of any made with glass.


Inova flashlights from a few years ago used glass TIR optics. I do think it unlikely that these CN optics will be glass, particularly at such a low price.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

So, after a year+ we found (thanks to GJHS) original Yinding and nothing has changed. Still best budget bike light.
Here is one of the first reviews (done by me) for the game changer light.

Yinding review 2013

This morning I received new original Yinding from GB.
Compared side by side to my old one.

Everything is exactly the same, the only diference is the smooth tansition between the modes and shorter power cable (for 7cm)

If someone would want to change beam pattern...here is the procedure.

Buy TIR lenses LEDDNA 20mm (21mmwith holder)
25 Degree 21mm Reflector Collimator LED Lens For Cree XML XM-L LED - LEDDNA
choose desired beam angle. Best thing is to combine two different angle lenses. (10+25 is the best in my opinion)
Due to some small dimension differencs you will have to add o-rings. O-rings must have these dimensions
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1581301
Unscrew front panel hex screws (1,5mm hex), change lenses, ditch white plastic housing, place one o-ring on the edge of each lens, make sure everything is aligned, reasamble the front panel. The easiest way is to place front panel on the desk, place and align o-rings on the gasket, place and align new lenses then from the top slowly press down the light body. Press and hold the light together with your fingers and carefully install the screws. You should add some small amount of grease on the
screws threads and be gentle tightening them.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

The leds are different, but still the same U2 bin. ;-) Looking the driver it seems sense resistorrs are different too. Old one had R110 now R100 which means bit higher urrent to the leds which can be afforded as XM-L2 are more efficient. So I would say new one is even a little bit better.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

bhocewar said:


> So, after a year+ we found (thanks to GJHS) original Yinding and nothing has changed. Still best budget bike light.
> Here is one of the first reviews (done by me) for the game changer light.
> 
> Yinding review 2013
> ...


Great info, thanks. Do you have beam shots with the revised lenses?


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

@Ledoman You are right (took the leds for granted -my old YD was upgraded to xml2 neutral leds). Didnt examine driver elements but I did notice my new YD draws higer current. (2,2A vs 2,4A)

@GJHS
Let me ask this... If the YD factory never stopped producing unchanged YDs, where did all the originals go and not to be found for over a year?


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

GJHS said:


> What I want to know is: Dora found it unchanged from your review and the Yinding factory says that they never changed the quality, then why did all the sellers start selling cheap quality versions? Clearly there is an advantage to selling the original.


Clearly there is more of an advantage to sell even cheaper knock-offs of successful products, even when they are knock-offs of knock-offs. 

I think the reality is most buyers aren't sophisticated enough to appreciate the quality differences, especially when the differences are internal to the product. And besides, it is unrealistic to return these cheaper copies so even customers that can tell the difference just suck it up and keep the product.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

GJHS said:


> Do you have beam shots with the revised lenses?


Yes I have some, but no side by side shots. I will try to find them.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

bhocewar said:


> @Ledoman You are right (took the leds for granted -my old YD was upgraded to xml2 neutral leds). Didnt examine driver elements but I did notice my new YD draws higer current. (2,2A vs 2,4A)
> 
> @GJHS
> Let me ask this... If the YD factory never stopped producing unchanged YDs, where did all the originals go and not to be found for over a year?


Dora sent me the listing where she found it, it's was there for anyone to buy, still is in XML. Apparently when they cloned it, the sales stopped so they figured the interest stopped ad they just moved on to the next light.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

kwarwick said:


> Clearly there is more of an advantage to sell even cheaper knock-offs of successful products, even when they are knock-offs of knock-offs.
> 
> I think the reality is most buyers aren't sophisticated enough to appreciate the quality differences, especially when the differences are internal to the product. And besides, it is unrealistic to return these cheaper copies so even customers that can tell the difference just suck it up and keep the product.


What was funny was this happened at the height of sales and knowing the game, most people just cancelled their orders rather than wait. Then when the Gen2s came out sales must have dropped even more. I think you're right, I'm talking about what was reported in the forums, not the regular uninformed public who clearly should join.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Here is original YD XML U2 original lenses









And here is MS880clone XML2 slightly more neutral upgraded to 10°+25° LEDDNA lenses









shots were taken three months appart,
if I find some time, I can take some better comparison side by side shots with some more lens variants.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> Dora sent me the listing where she found it, it's was there for anyone to buy, still is in XML. Apparently when they cloned it, the sales stopped so they figured the interest stopped ad they just moved on to the next light.


That's interesting: I've never seen any other Yindings except for this Gemini Duo clone.

Do you have any details about that "next light"?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

bhocewar said:


> Here is one of the first reviews (done by me) for the game changer light.
> 
> Yinding review 2013


Also worth to add link to excellent review by *Kir*:
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/user-review-yinding-yd-2xu2-gemini-duo-clone-887497.html

And thank you for replacement optics info!


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

oh, I found another small but pleasant difference. Long press mode isnt strobe anymore but rather slow flashing.


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## burnz (Dec 23, 2014)

bhocewar said:


> Here is original YD XML U2 original lenses
> 
> And here is MS880clone XML2 slightly more neutral upgraded to 10°+25° LEDDNA lenses.


Wow, that looks great. Can't wait getting my Yindings and playing with lenses. 2 elliptical lenses (30x15°) are already waiting on my desk...


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

So I'm guessing that no one wants a Blue or Red Yinding?


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I was thinking of a blue neutral.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

is anyone still interested in a light head + solarstorm 4 cell case + some charger (xtar?) combo


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

jokaankit said:


> is anyone still interested in a light head + solarstorm 4 cell case + some charger (xtar?) combo


I had posted a great deal that MTBR deleted. My mistake, I posted it wrong and guess it sounded like a commercial.

It's the SolarStorm battery box for $9.99
Solarstorm New 2S2P 8.4V 2000mAh Dual Water-resistant 4 x 18650 External Battery Pack for Bicycle Light Digital Device-11.28 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
Coupon: New2S2P

The XTAR VP2 for $25.79
Xtar VP2 2-Slot Intelligent LED Monitor Li-ion Battery Charger with Car Charger Used as Power Bank - US Plug-34.09 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
Coupon: XVP2S

The Nitecore i4 for $17.98
EU Plug:New Version Nitecore i4 Intellicharger Digi Charger with Indicator for 26650 22650 18490 - EU Plug-21.77 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
US Plug: New Version Nitecore i4 Intellicharger Digi Charger with Indicator for 26650 22650 18490 - US Plug-21.77 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
Coupon: NVNCM

This way you have a choice of a 2 cell or 4 cell charger. The XTAR should charge 4 batteries faster than the Nitecore. There are more expensive options yet both are good budget options.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

So I looked the driver a little bit closer
Here it is old vs new original YD

old








new








old








new









And this might explain some amperage fluctiation while measuring.
Barely touched the wire and it snaped.


----------



## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

bhocewar said:


> So I looked the driver a little bit closer
> Here it is old vs new original YD


Many thanks! The only visible difference is, a missing SS34 Schottky diode, but probably single one is acceptable, too - it can handle up to 3A current.



> And this might explain some amperage fluctiation while measuring.
> Barely touched the wire and it snaped.


Old rule for cheap Chinese stuffs "Open it, inspect thoroughly, and fix assembling flaws yourself!" is still true...


----------



## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

-Archie- said:


> Many thanks! The only visible difference is, a missing SS34 Schottky diode, but probably single one is acceptable, too - it can handle up to 3A current.


Also (sense?) resistor to the left of the FET that is R100 (.100 ohm) on new and R110 (.110 ohm) on old. Probably explains the slightly higher drive current of the new batch.


----------



## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Thats correct


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## bianchifan (Feb 13, 2010)

GJHS said:


> Can you post a photo here of the case or PM. Mine have been perfect and there hasn't been any previous complaints with the Original, so I want to make sure there isn't a problem. If so I will forward it to Dora


Keep cool, nothing to forward.
What I want to say...some guys posted about perfect workout.
Imho it's very well for the price, but not perfect.
I know a manufacturer of highpriced designer lamps, when the housings come out of the CNC process they are nearly high gloss 

  

Regarding the optics, for me they are nearly perfect.
Although I looked at my stock (fasttech, should be same as those on LEDDNA), they do not fit. 
They are very similar, but not same in size.
The Yindings are 11,4 mm in height, the other vary between 10,8 mm and 11,3 mm.

 

The main problem is the front, the support ring.
The Yindings distance from bottom to support is 9,8 mm (1,6 mm support), the others distance vary between 7,8 and 8,8, support height betwenn 1 mm and 1,6 mm.
While Yinding optics are flushmounted fastech ones and others are not, they will look through their corresponding mounting hole.
Result is a flapping mount and the bottom is rumbling in the air.

The only idea to make them run may be a frontal washer of 1mm or perhaps an o-ring and a thicker base plate.

For now I ordered a couple of new optics from fasttech and KD, some o-rings and washers, in about two month I can tell some more.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

bianchifan said:


> The only idea to make them run may be a frontal washer of 1mm or perhaps an o-ring and a thicker base plate.


It was already mentioned by *bhocewar* on previous page:


bhocewar said:


> Due to some small dimension differencs you will have to add o-rings. O-rings must have these dimensions
> https://www.fasttech.com/p/1581301


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## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

royal mail made an attempted delivery of mine today, so I get to pick them up from the depot in the morning


----------



## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

got mine this morning. I've only been able to test them with 2 cells in the battery case, in a brightly lit workshop, but impressed so far. I love the small size.

Just need to swap the mounts to my Hope mounts and try them on the trails.

As i've got quite a few recovered laptop cells, I think i need to build some 6 cell battery packs. where's best to buy protection circuits?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Punto Pete said:


> where's best to buy protection circuits?


eBay.


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## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

thanks. i've seen some on there, i wasn't sure if i'd be better off at fasttech, KD, etc


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

Hunk Lee has protection circuits too. There are a variety, so you can choose one to suite the shape of pack you're wanting to build.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

either Mr. Lee or Tchwarehouse ebayers is a good choice :thumbsup:


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

In my experience, supowerbattery111 and wkws20 are fine, too.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Good to know that. I search for a 2.7-3V cutoff PCBs usually, don't want to have a 2.3V PCB and also consider the continuous current I need. There are some balance charging PCBs but personally I'd avoid them.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

MK96 said:


> I search for a 2.7-3V cutoff PCBs usually, don't want to have a 2.3V PCB and also consider the continuous current I need.


Do you measure the voltages, or trust the description? 



> There are some balance charging PCBs but personally I'd avoid them.


Me, too. BTW, have anyone seen online any PCB boards for 2s with "fuel gauge" chip?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Here is something that is usable: Li ion Battery Capacity Indicator Measurement Board for 2 Pack Cell 7 2V 8 4V | eBay

But you need to press the button to show the state.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Hmm, looks promising! Do you know for sure it is fuel gauge, not dumb "voltmeter" scheme? I'm unable to read IC markings on the item's pictures...


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Nope, I can't read them either  But I noticed it is not a PCB actually, just a capacity tester ... my fault.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Well, if IC isn't readable, we may use logic.  The board have only two contact points: "Battery +" and "Battery -", and nothing for charger/load connection. Obviosly, it's a primitive voltmeter (like one embedded into SolarStorm box)...


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## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

also just getting my head round drivers and multi-emitters. is the 2.5A drive current split between the 2 LED's, so they see 1.25A each?


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

MK96 & Archie: Why would you avoid the boards with balancing?

Concern for cells going out of balance seems to be a constant theme on here. I would think a board with balancing built in would eliminate those worries.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

If we speak about the PCB (protection), its main purpose is to watch the differences between the series of cells and cut the power if something goes out of balance. This is what every PCB does at various voltage drops in series, e.g. cut off at 3V/cell.

OTOH the balancing we speak about here is an addition to the charging process. The balance current on these PCBs is about 20-55mA. When cells go out of balance the balance charging will be very long due to the small drain current. Ordinary balance PCBs can't generate power draw of 4-6W to generate current of about [email protected] That is why I would avoid the balancing PCB. Separate hobby charger is better (usual drain current >200mA).


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

I have been running my new Yinding on the bars with my XT40 on my helmet and I gotta say, the XT40 seems to be much, much brighter on the trail, almost washing out the Yinding. Really surprised by how much difference there is and thinking about just getting another XT40 to use on the bars as well. The XT40 on medium seems brighter than the Yinding on high.

I don't see a head only XT40 on Gearbest for the regular light, only the newer neutral color. Anyone know if you can order an XT40 light only?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

dawgman25 said:


> I have been running my new Yinding on the bars with my XT40 on my helmet and I gotta say, the XT40 seems to be much, much brighter on the trail, almost washing out the Yinding. Really surprised by how much difference there is and thinking about just getting another XT40 to use on the bars as well. The XT40 on medium seems brighter than the Yinding on high.
> 
> I don't see a head only XT40 on Gearbest for the regular light, only the newer neutral color. Anyone know if you can order an XT40 light only?


The XT40 (4 x XM-L2) is definitely brighter than the Yinding (2 x XM-L2) and in my opinion two entirely different beam patterns. I positioned my XT40 out long with the Yinding up close for a really good combo.

I would say if you looking for a brighter bar light, go X3 rather than XT40. I think the XT40 just doesn't put enough light up close. If you want I can see if Dora can get the X3 XM-L2 1A in light head only. Otherwise I think DX sells the XT40 light head only.


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## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

Do I need to remove the cells from the solar storm case to charge them, or can I just plug in one of my chargers (correct voltage) from my other ms clone lights?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

This is the question you should post under topic about SS case. It has nothing to do with Yinding.
To answer you, yes you can charge with any 8.4V Li-Ion MS clone charger. I advise you to read my review. There is something to take care of.


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## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

thanks ledoman


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

GJHS can you get the info when new batch of lights only is expected?
I've ordered neutral white light only on 8th of January and it still not shipped.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

I ordered the neutral white the 25th of december. Still not shipped (but the money is drawn).


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## paul_f (Jan 5, 2006)

Mine have been delivered in the UK via NL post.
They seem great, but no battery boxes


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

paul_f said:


> They seem great, but no battery boxes


Could you please clarify: is it an incomplete shipment, or you've ordered boxes separately?


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## paul_f (Jan 5, 2006)

-Archie- said:


> Could you please clarify: is it an incomplete shipment, or you've ordered boxes separately?


I did the preorder on 22/12 where you were supposedly getting a free battery box. But only 2 lights arrived in the package


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Quite strange. Have you contacted GearBest about that issue? Maybe the boxes were shipped by second parcel?


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## paul_f (Jan 5, 2006)

-Archie- said:


> Quite strange. Have you contacted GearBest about that issue? Maybe the boxes were shipped by second parcel?


Now I look back at the thread I am not sure whether I was ever getting the boxes or not - I am sure it said I was when I ordered. Still happy with the lights anyway!


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Well, that "free box" story looks really suspicious (too many unexplained glitches already reported here), but I'm glad you're happy with the light!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> Well, that "free box" story looks really suspicious (too many unexplained glitches already reported here), but I'm glad you're happy with the light!


I checked my emails to Dora, the box deal ended on the 19th. If you ordered on the 22nd, there was no free battery case included. Has there been anyone who has received less than what they ordered? PM me and more importantly email Dora and/or May.

The next batch should be done in 10 days. If it's any consolation, mine hasn't shipped either. Right now it's almost impossible to get in touch with Dora. Hopefully next week, she will be available and I will be able to confirm more.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Does anyone with both this and the KD 2 think it's worth buying one of these if I already have a KD2? The talk of neutral white is getting me intrigued


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

manbeer said:


> Does anyone with both this and the KD 2 think it's worth buying one of these if I already have a KD2? The talk of neutral white is getting me intrigued


I have one KD2 Cool White, one KD2 that i've modified to neutral white, one gemini duo (cool white) and several Yinding 2nd generation (bad quality, cool white).

I should say that good quality, neutral white yindings are the ones you want. I really, really like the neutral white tint. The forest gets much more cosy and inviting. The ride gets much more pleasant in neutral white light. I tried to switch to one of my cool white lights after rideing neutral white for a while but then I just got afraid of the dark in the cold white forest. I wanted to get home fast until I switched back to the neutral white again... ...

(unfortunately I just got my Iphone camera when I shot some beamshots. You can't tell the difference in color temperature between the pictures so I don't post any pictures, but in reality the difference is great!)


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

manbeer said:


> Does anyone with both this and the KD 2 think it's worth buying one of these if I already have a KD2? The talk of neutral white is getting me intrigued


If the programmable driver on you KD2 is what makes you love the KD2 then buy another in Neutral. If better build quality and being waterproof is important and L-M-H is good enough then definitely get the Yinding.

if neutral sounds great and you want a brighter light then buy the Neutral SolarStorm X3 or XT40. They're all about the same price.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

manbeer said:


> Does anyone with both this and the KD 2 think it's worth buying one of these if I already have a KD2? The talk of neutral white is getting me intrigued


I have a KD, and ordered a neutral Yinding and the KD 10-step driver kit with neutral LEDs.
The neutral LEDs from the kit are going in the KD, and the driver part is going in the Yinding.
The drivers arrived but not the Yinding yet.


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## BJHA (Jan 3, 2015)

Received one single light and two sets after 22 days of shipping.

Small, bright and heats up fast in -1°C before the protection kicks in.

One mount was broken. 
One light goes from green to black when battery low, not red as the other two.
One charger does not go green when battery is full.( Tested with other chargers )

Beside the lack of quality control, I do like the Yinding better than my MS 872.

Tried to upload Pictures without sucsess so far.

GB support contacted with pictures.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

BJHA said:


> One mount was broken.
> One light goes from green to black when battery low, not red as the other two.
> One charger does not go green when battery is full.( Tested with other chargers )


So, you can assemble yourself fully working set from these three! 

If seriously, check the voltage of that faulty charger: if it doesn't stop charging (in addition to non-working indicator LED), it could be dangerous.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Once I've got 12V power adapter instead of 8.4V Li-Ion charger in same housing. No declaration, though. But if you are not careful and trust seller you might get into truble. Battery pack protection should kicks in (if you have one).


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## BJHA (Jan 3, 2015)

Your words made me start thinking, thank`s.

I thought I had one complete set but now I don`t trust the following chargers at all. 

Wrote an email to May and waiting response.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Check output voltage of a charger. It should be around 8.45V. Not more except few hudreds. I've found Magicshine 2.5A charger has 8.5V output. Still not to high, but upper limit I would say, since at higher current there are some looses (voltage drop) in the wires.


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

bianchifan said:


> I'm not familiar with eneloop but I do think both is poosible, with 7s you will have 1/6 more energy compared to 6s
> For I still have no 3s LiIon my TripleShot is running on 10S1P NiMH (Original Cateye).
> 10s maybe too much, last year I fried a MS808-Clone-Driver on high (indoor, no cooling)
> You mustn't be too afraid of the chemistry, LIIon isn't LiPo.


The third yinding light I ordered will be used as head lamp for my regular short but speedy trail/forest runs from home. I like to carry battery pack in back pocket of my running pants. Quite often I find myself in swamp or sliding down a rocky hill on my butt. So battery pack will hit rocks and get submerged. 6 or 7 eneloops would be lightweight enough and runtime would do too for 1 h runs. Most of my underpants are not fireproof. Hope this explains my intentions.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

8.5V should drop a lot under 2.5A load. It depends on the quality thou.



ledoman said:


> Check output voltage of a charger. It should be around 8.45V. Not more except few hudreds. I've found Magicshine 2.5A charger has 8.5V output. Still not to high, but upper limit I would say, since at higher current there are some looses (voltage drop) in the wires.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

What's the verdict on taking these apart? Is there enough thermal paste under the board so that heat is transmitted to the case? I'm afraid of stripping the screws.


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## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

not removed the emitter board on mine, but I can see paste around the edges and the case warms quickly


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

varider said:


> What's the verdict on taking these apart? Is there enough thermal paste under the board so that heat is transmitted to the case? I'm afraid of stripping the screws.


I had mine apart, the toughest part was the longer screws holding the board and rear cover. I had to use pliers to loosen the screws, they were on tight. The front screws have been off and on a couple of times without issue. I wouldn't advise taking them on and off a lot. I believe Ledoman stripped his taking them off a lot.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

MK96 said:


> 8.5V should drop a lot under 2.5A load. It depends on the quality thou.


In fact, significant load is present at the beginning of charge only, while at the end current is very low.

But anyway, 8.5V is still within allowed voltage tolerance range: MagicShine uses BAK, Panasonic and Samsung cells, and for the latter, EOC voltage of 4.2 ±0.05 V is defined as normal by manufacturer. Can't find similar information for BAK and Panasonic right now, but suppose it's similar (±0.05V seems to be common value for such cells).


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> The front screws have been off and on a couple of times without issue. I wouldn't advise taking them on and off a lot. I believe Ledoman stripped his taking them off a lot.


I haven't received my light yet, but already started worrying about disassemble.  Possible problems with these screws are discussed for long time... What exactly thread diameter they are, and what hex size seems correct for the head?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> I haven't received my light yet, but already started worrying about disassemble.  Possible problems with these screws are discussed for long time... What exactly thread diameter they are, and what hex size seems correct for the head?


Problems with the screws were common with the clones and the T6 models, since they were upgraded to T6 privately by a seller who wasn't always so careful. I would worry, considering all the people who have already changed the optics.

Has anyone had an issue?


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

I have not had any problems with my yindings. I use a 1,5mm hex key (don't know what that is in inches). I always use good quality tools, maybe that is why it works for me.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> Problems with the screws were common with the clones and the T6 models, since they were upgraded to T6 privately by a seller


You're probably right.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Appel said:


> I have not had any problems with my yindings. I use a 1,5mm hex key (don't know what that is in inches). I always use good quality tools, maybe that is why it works for me.


Thanks! My tools aren't bad either, so it seems everything will be fine. Most of my small hex drivers are metric (don't have imperial ones smaller than 5/64"), so was asking to see whether I'll need to buy some additional tools for that task...


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## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

The screws are metric. Use metric hex keys to save any damage to the head and they should be only just nipped up. The threads are wearing because they're actually being over tightened, they only need a tiny amount of torque and won't feel tight to most.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Well, the light finally arrived today. After all these reviews beginning with "wow, it's so small!" and pictures, I was prepared - but when I've opened the envelope, I was shocked by the fact how small it is! 

Haven't opened it yet (probably, will do that at the weekend), but at first glance everything is Ok. It works, and is really bright for that size. External finish is not perfect, but quite decent. Visible dirt or defects on inner surface of both TIR lenses, some dents and scratches on the case obviously left by sharp tool during sloppy assembling, etc. But giving the price, such minor things (common for Chinese lights anyway) are not problem.

Absence of rubber O-ring(s) for handlebar mounting was unexpected, though. I have plenty of spare ones, but for people who ordered head only, this missing two cents' worth part might prevent immediate use of light, so be aware.

The "free" battery box was not included in the package, but it seems to be shipped separately: second parcel from GearBest is en route, so I have to wait a few days more.

*GJHS*: thanks again for your help and tremendous effort on this topic! :thumbsup:


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Yeah every time I look at it I continue to be amazed at the size. Also, I went side to side with my older gloworm x2 last night and while the x2 had a better pattern with nicer, defined cutoff this looked to be just as bright. Not sure how this will translate into trail use but I hope to take it for a ride this weekend


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> Well, the light finally arrived today. After all these reviews beginning with "wow, it's so small!" and pictures, I was prepared - but when I've opened the envelope, I was shocked by the fact how small it is!
> 
> Haven't opened it yet (probably, will do that at the weekend), but at first glance everything is Ok. It works, and is really bright for that size. External finish is not perfect, but quite decent. Visible dirt or defects on inner surface of both TIR lenses, some dents and scratches on the case obviously left by sharp tool during sloppy assembling, etc. But giving the price, such minor things (common for Chinese lights anyway) are not problem.
> 
> ...


Archie, I'm glad you're happy. The minor defects are not supposed to be there, so please email May and explain to at least make the issue known. I discussed the few that had them and asked her to speak with the factory. I understand they quickly made a batch for us and we have been keeping them busy, yet better to take more time and get it 100%. Dora said she would speak with the factory and I will speak about it again even though there have been very few minor case issues. I will also discuss the need for O rings.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

GJHS can you please also ask when new batch is expected? After all this praise I cannot wait any longer .
I am not sure whether it is better to leave communication to you, or should I ask them by myself?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Just came from a night ride with Yinding on the helmet and KD2 on the bar. Very nice ride.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> Archie, I'm glad you're happy. The minor defects are not supposed to be there, so please email May and explain to at least make the issue known. I discussed the few that had them and asked her to speak with the factory.


I don't think it's worth discussing. The issues are really minor and not affecting light's operation - so, expecting absolute perfection for $30 light would be an impudence IMHO...  After all, Lupine asks ten times more for comparable Piko light head, while most of cheap Chinese lights often are really inferior and require heavy modifications.

According to my personal former experience, except for this Yinding, the only low-budget Chinese lights suitable for immediate use w/o any repair or fixing the assembly defects are MagicShine - but the price for them starts from $80. I suppose, demands for Yinding factory to maintain 100% quality control will inevitably results in shifting the price towards upper side of that market standards. As for me, it's better to leave it as is...


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## tw0leftskis (Aug 10, 2011)

I placed my order 12/24/2014 for the natural light. My order status still shows processing.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Try sending an email to [email protected] with your order number. Most likely its going to ship out at the end of the month, once they get new stock. I'm still patiently waiting for mine  I ordered the set so it might take over a month lol. Good luck.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

I'd have to admit, temptation was too strong to wait for weekend, so I've opened & inspected the light the same evening. 

No major problems found, as expected. Imperfections on the TIR optics were indeed ordinary dirt, easily removed (probably, assembling workers aren't using gloves). LEDs were also not clean. Positive wire of power cord wasn't soldered properly, and its insulation melted. Fixed by cutting damaged end, adding piece of heat-shrinking tube and soldering into correct hole in PCB. Amount of thermal paste seems adequate, but it wasn't smeared to all the surface of LED base: I've removed it & applied good ArcticSilver instead.

Power consumption in standby is relatively high: 20 mA, so I won't recommend to leave the battery connected for long time, otherwise it will drain it.

Two manufacturing flaws I'd consider relatively important, though:

1)- Power cord was not secured inside, and may be accidentally pulled out in some unexpected situations. I've used thin cable tie to prevent that.

2)- The light is not waterproof, unfortunately. Case does have rubber O-rings in joints, but silicone gasket between front panel and optics is way too thin: there's visible gap about 0.3 - 0.5 mm. Using in the rain (or wet road in group rides) seems quite undesirable.

Currently I'm thinking about adding some O-rings there, but it wouldn't be easy to position them properly, due to complicated shape of both optics & front bezel, even if I'll be able to find appropriate diameter and thickness. Second gasket identical to the existing one would be ideal solution, but I doubt Yinding is selling spare parts.

But overall impression is still good: especially because of excellent thermal conductivity of such design (direct mounting of LED base to the case) and beautiful shape. Most likely, it will be used by wife or kids, as they don't ride in bad weather anyway, or as headlight for activities unrelated to cycling, due to its small size and weight.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Thanks Archie. Sorry to hear about the badly soldered connection and lack of strain relief, but those are easy enough to fix.
The lack of waterproofing is a disappointment- I thought that was the point of this better-made light? 
I wonder if Gearbest will sell the front gasket on their site to us, so we can double up.


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## syadasti (Apr 20, 2004)

tw0leftskis said:


> I placed my order 12/24/2014 for the natural light. My order status still shows processing.


Same here, ordered before Xmas, still not shipped. My X3 Neutral which I ordered early this month shipped a few days ago :madman:


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> 2)- The light is not waterproof, unfortunately. Case does have rubber O-rings in joints, but silicone gasket between front panel and optics is way too thin: there's visible gap about 0.3 - 0.5 mm. Using in the rain (or wet road in group rides) seems quite undesirable.
> 
> Currently I'm thinking about adding some O-rings there, but it wouldn't be easy to position them properly, due to complicated shape of both optics & front bezel, even if I'll be able to find appropriate diameter and thickness. Second gasket identical to the existing one would be ideal solution, but I doubt Yinding is selling spare parts


When I received my XML sample, the optics rattled since Dora was the last to assemble it. Reassembling it with the gasket in the right place fixed it. I think if assembled correctly, the light will be waterproof and there is very little to no room to add another gasket. There should be a good seal, if that gasket is in correct position, which isn't easy since its thin and doesn't stay easily in place when assembled. Just make sure that front cover is snapped all the way on.

Looking at both of mine, they both have a tight seal no gaps. I would be happy to submit them to a shower test.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

It should be one more week to get the next batch. I will try again tonight to get an exact time, last night May was away.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Mine has been underwater overnight and no issues there.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

In my case, it seems that different batch of TIR lenses was probably used, of slightly less height. Bezel is fully tightened of course, and the gasket is in right place: it's easy to check as its inner edges are visible if you look at lenses at some angle. And that gasket freely moves between lens & bezel; optics also have some amount of play (it's possible to shift it a bit, if light force is applied to the lens, e.g. by pressing sidewise with cotton swab).

No big deal, though: will try to fix it at some later time with additional O-rings...


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Thanks Archie. Sorry to hear about the badly soldered connection and lack of strain relief, but those are easy enough to fix.
> The lack of waterproofing is a disappointment- I thought that was the point of this better-made light?
> I wonder if Gearbest will sell the front gasket on their site to us, so we can double up.


You're welcome. Don't worry about that unltil you'll actually get your light: as reported by others, it might be an exception. You'll never know where Chinese roulette will stop in each particular case! 

I've seen that many times: you order several identical items (same seller, same SKU etc.) and every one of them is slightly different, with its own unique set of glitches. Just check carefully, and don't expect them to be totally the same.


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

For the AZ peeps, friend of mine received his light head only last week. Tracking number never worked and it showed up in his mailbox last Friday. From the 1st 1A light head order. 
My two light heads finally made it to New York. 
Shipped 12/25
Left the Netherlands 1/12
Processed thru New York sort facility 1/20


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yep, my NW Yinding ordered 29th Dec and shipped out on 10th Jan now shows:

January 20, 2015 , 2:47 am
Processed Through Sort Facility
ISC NEW YORK NY(USPS) 

I'm in NYC but there is no Scheduled Delivery Date. Says Registered Mail so guess I have to be around to sign for it else wait in line at the PO a couple of hours to pick it up, D'oh! 

Panasonic cells ordered thirteen days ago from FastTech:

January 21, 2015 , 6:56 am
Arrived at Post Office
NEW YORK, NY 10009 

At least these were sent plain ol' First Class and not Registered so they should be in my mailbox either today or tomorrow. Well worth the $5 for expedited delivery. 

Too bad the battery boxes ordered from Kaidomain weeks ago are still hung up but at least I've still got a few good 8.4V packs here should work with the Yinding. Can't wait to test!


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## circusubet (Aug 5, 2006)

Fourtrax said:


> For the AZ peeps, friend of mine received his light head only last week. Tracking number never worked and it showed up in his mailbox last Friday. From the 1st 1A light head order.
> My two light heads finally made it to New York.
> Shipped 12/25
> Left the Netherlands 1/12
> ...


I am in Arizona also, received box two weeks ago. Received single head last Wednesday, head and battery the next day, Thursday. I have been running this light below on the bars,

KD 2xCree XM-L2 U2 Neutral White 4700K-5000K 4-Mode 2200 Lumens Bike Light -Black,
Great little light, runs cool, floody-lots of light for the bars. I am up in age, need quite a bit of light. The Yinding is smaller and is just as bright, seems better built. I would pull it apart and report, but I just destroyed a old 872.....Sooooo with that being said I will leave the tech to Ledo, Archie, GJHS, MK, 'Bent and rest of you with the skills. GJHS, thanks again.

HOWEVER, I was hoping that the Yinging would be a helmet light with a long throw. Does anyone know if lenses are available that would turn this light from a flood to more of a "throw" light?

OBTW Fourtrax, we try and ride Phil's every chance we get.

Thx
John


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Throw lights*

I have often wondered why the Chinese skipped over the Cree XP-G series?

****


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

scar said:


> I have often wondered why the Chinese skipped over the Cree XP-G series?
> 
> ****


XP-G? No problem :thumbsup:

Who's in?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

circusubet said:


> ..... I am up in age, need quite a bit of light...


You are not alone 



circusubet said:


> HOWEVER, I was hoping that the Yinging would be a helmet light with a long throw. Does anyone know if lenses are available that would turn this light from a flood to more of a "throw" light?


The only one I know are LED-DNA or FastTech 10deg lenses which should be easily exchanged. Somewhere back in this thred is written how - look for bhocewar's posts.
I've already tried to make it wider with one 25deg lense to compare to my moded MJ880 klone wich has 10+25deg lenses.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

PS. If any of you want more throw with XM-L2 leds, dedoming leds is another option to try, but you would loose some lumens. 
If we are talking about the same Yinding design. It is true XP-G2 would give more throw, but you would cut total output significantly and stock Yinding driver with 2.5A would overdrive leds. Changing sense resistance and lower the current is easy doable, though.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

ledoman said:


> It is true XP-G2 would give more throw, but you would cut total output significantly and stock Yinding driver with 2.5A would overdrive leds.


Is the output 2.5A? I thought typical was 1.7-2A. Still a bit higher than 1.5 XPG2 spec but I'm sure overdriving a little bit won't invalidate your extensive warranty. 
Another reason why the KD 10 mode is better.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

znomit said:


> Is the output 2.5A? I thought typical was 1.7-2A.


I haven't measured actual current to LEDs, but quickly checked power consumption of light: from 8V supply, it is 1.6A - exactly as mentioned in *Kir*'s review.

As for changing the beam, IMHO, correct way is replacement of optics, not LEDs dedoming or swapping...


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

-Archie- said:


> As for changing the beam, IMHO, correct way is replacement of optics, not LEDs dedoming or swapping...


The optics are too small to get a really tight beam using the XML.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

znomit said:


> The optics are too small to get a really tight beam using the XML.


Would reflectors work here?


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## bianchifan (Feb 13, 2010)

> dedoming leds is another option


I accidently dedomed one of my L2s during a soldering, redoming was ****in hard..

XP-G2? Have a look at the datasheet, it's easy, XM-L2 makes more light..more efficiency, less current. Your ride will last about 2 min longer 

Complains about a 30$ lighthead?
scratches? It's 30 $.

Not waterproof? Mine is proof and it's the first lighthead with this feature, even the mount is sealed.
The optics are of different size?
Hard to believe, for they are special ones, I have no idea, where they come from.
Meanwhile I've got a couple more, none of them will fit.

Bad soldering job?
Maybe better possible, but I've seen many high priced techs with more awful jobs.
You can see, it's manually soldered. With a little hurry


Bad driver?
It's the most perfect driver, I've ever seen (I will never have a Lupine).
KD's driver is much more awful, it has a toro coil and will disturb Sigma Rox & co. under certain circumstances.

Poor throw?
For me it's the most perfect throw I've ever seen.
I don't want to see what's 200m in front of me, but 5 to 10 meters.
Imho it's a perfect headlight.

My gallery so far, no throw pics until now


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

bianchifan said:


> Complains about a 30$ lighthead?


You're essentially repeated what I've said here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...ing-yd-2xu2-found-941540-29.html#post11714217


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

bhocewar said:


> Mine has been underwater overnight and no issues there.


Really? Did you test to put your yinding underwater, and it still works?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

-Archie- said:


> I haven't measured actual current to LEDs, but quickly checked power consumption of light: from 8V supply, it is 1.6A - exactly as mentioned in *Kir*'s review.
> 
> As for changing the beam, IMHO, correct way is replacement of optics, not LEDs dedoming or swapping...


Neither did I, but the calculation from sense resistor and LEDA chip implys it should be 0.25/0.100=2.5A. It might be lower because of some looses, though. I might do measurment in the future when I'm going to swap drivers with KD2.

Of course the best way is to use proper optics, but if you don't get the one that suits you, dedoming is another option. And you will get somewhat warmer tint too.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

bianchifan said:


> Bad driver?
> It's the most perfect driver, I've ever seen (I will never have a Lupine).
> KD's driver is much more awful, it has a toro coil and will disturb Sigma Rox & co. under certain circumstances.


I agree. But... 
...I get annoyed when I need to toogle through OFF when I switch between HIGH,MID,LOW. Long press should be off instead of flash IMO...


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Appel said:


> Really? Did you test to put your yinding underwater, and it still works?


It should be so, as long as the light is correctly assembled with proper parts: there's rubber seals everywhere. In my particular sample, only front openings require additional waterproofing: when it will be done, I don't see any problem with water.

OTOH, it doesn't mean that these bike lights are of "underwater/diving" kind: any remarkable water pressure will kill them, as the water will penetrate in places like cable gland, button cap etc. So, deep immersion is not correct way to test them: use shower instead!


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Appel said:


> I agree. But...
> ...I get annoyed when I need to toogle through OFF when I switch between HIGH,MID,LOW. Long press should be off instead of flash IMO...


+1. There are two aspects. User interface with KD2 is much better. Technicaly Yinding might be better, but only regarding toroid. Both has thermal protection.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Appel said:


> ...I get annoyed when I need to toogle through OFF when I switch between HIGH,MID,LOW. Long press should be off instead of flash IMO...


In this Yinding, you don't actually have to go through OFF phase. The driver uses steady change of intensity, so if you press the button twice quickly ("double-click" in PC mouse language), you'll get next level without switching the light completely.

To my personal taste, this is very good, as switching through "Strobe" mode (common "feature" for many cheap lights) is many times more annoying...


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

-Archie- said:


> To my personal taste, this is very good, as switching through "Strobe" mode (common "feature" for many cheap lights) is many times more annoying...


That's true. On the other hand KD2 doesn't have strobe or off mode in the cycle. Strobe is accesible only from off mode.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

ledoman said:


> Both has thermal protection.


Now we have three big treads about these lights with tons of information - but I'm unsure if that thermal protection was actually tested by somebody. Maybe I've missed that message(s), if any...


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

ledoman said:


> PS. If any of you want more throw with XM-L2 leds, dedoming leds is another option to try, but you would loose some lumens.
> If we are talking about the same Yinding design. It is true XP-G2 would give more throw, but you would cut total output significantly and stock Yinding driver with 2.5A would overdrive leds...


So the XPG-2 is built for throw? Huh. Because XP-G seem to be standard for use in those little satellite beams added on for spread, like with the MJ-816 and Jexree Bat where they are clad in elliptical diffusing lenses over reflectors, or the SingFire 530, which appears to use optics (at least in some vendors' pics). Have the manufactures of these light heads been subverting the inherent properties of the XP-G for the convenience of it diminutive proportions? Or is the XP-G2 such a very different beast?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

-Archie- said:


> I'm unsure if that thermal protection was actually tested by somebody. Maybe I've missed that message(s), if any...


I did it with KD2 when compared lights tint on the desk. It went down to low mode not allowing me to switch back to high. I didn't document that, though.

You can try it with Yinding ;-)


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

ledoman said:


> You can try it with Yinding ;-)


No, thanks. I'd better wait for some other enthusiast to do that...


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Regarding the optics if you want a tight beam look for a similar to this:

$0.86 20mm 15-Degree Optical Lens/Optic for Cree XM-L LED Emitters - 20*12.8mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

and observe the center point cone of the optic - the smaller it is the tighter the beam pattern it produces.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

-Archie- said:


> Now we have three big treads about these lights with tons of information - but I'm unsure if that thermal protection was actually tested by somebody. Maybe I've missed that message(s), if any...


Yeah I tested the thermal cutoff on the original Yinding. I can't find my post but Kir quoted me as below. Note there's different drivers out there so who knows what your particular one does. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/user-review-yinding-yd-2xu2-gemini-duo-clone-887497.html

_"Tested the thermal cutoff today.
Cuts in around 70C (IR thermometer). 
No hysteresis so theres a bit of flicker before it come fully on&#8230; guess thats a good visual warning. Cuts all modes back by half."_


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

andychrist said:


> So the XPG-2 is built for throw? Huh. Because XP-G seem to be standard for use in those little satellite beams added on for spread, like with the MJ-816 and Jexree Bat where they are clad in elliptical diffusing lenses over reflectors, or the SingFire 530, which appears to use optics (at least in some vendors' pics). Have the manufactures of these light heads been subverting the inherent properties of the XP-G for the convenience of it diminutive proportions? Or is the XP-G2 such a very different beast?


It is not XPG-2, but XP-G2 ;-). What is important for throw is relative brightness of the led surface per dye area and the viewing angle. For example XR-E is still the best for throw, but not very effcient and outdated. XT-E/XP-E2 has replaced it, but they are all relative low on lumens. XP-G2 is the best compromise between small dye of XP-E2 and bigger dye of XM-L2 making reasonable good throw and still some lumens. See specifications on the Cree web page.
XP-G2 has also smaller footprint of 3.5x3.5mm compared to 5x5mm with XM-L2 so different PCB is needed.

Anyway this discussion should run in another thread. GJHS?!


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

-Archie- said:


> No, thanks. I'd better wait for some other enthusiast to do that...


I thought so....


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

znomit said:


> Yeah I tested the thermal cutoff on the original Yinding. I can't find my post but Kir quoted me as below.


Thank you! Your original post is here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/gemini-duo-clones-876449-13.html



> Note there's different drivers out there so who knows what your particular one does.


Sure. Maybe I'll occasionally "test" it, if I'll forget to switch it off during pause in riding...


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

andychrist said:


> So the XPG-2 is built for throw? Huh. Because XP-G seem to be standard for use in those little satellite beams added on for spread, like with the MJ-816 and Jexree Bat where they are clad in elliptical diffusing lenses over reflectors, or the SingFire 530, which appears to use optics (at least in some vendors' pics). Have the manufactures of these light heads been subverting the inherent properties of the XP-G for the convenience of it diminutive proportions? Or is the XP-G2 such a very different beast?


The XPG2 die is 1.5x1.5mm (2.25mm sq).
The XML2 die is 2x2mm (4mm sq).
The XML puts out about 10% more lumens (at 1.5A) but its spread over twice the area, so only 55% as bright a central spot. You can get away with it with a big torch head but a 20mm optic is just too small. Its somewhat compensated for by being so damn bright at the higher drive currents though... but as I said if the drive current isn't much higher than the XPG then you are better off with a smaller LED.

XPG2s are a little cheaper which is why you see them used instead of the XML.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Then what about XP-L it is an XM-L performance in an XP size. But you need to swap the LED board for two MCPCBs with XP-Ls.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

MK96 said:


> Then what about XP-L it is an XM-L performance in an XP size. But you need to swap the LED board for two MCPCBs with XP-Ls.


Its still the XML sized die so largely has the XML beam characteristics, just the package is smaller. I don't know why we don't see XPL instead of XML yet.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

znomit said:


> I don't know why we don't see XPL instead of XML yet.


Might be more expensive to manufacture a light and components using XP-L


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

GJHS

Thanks for doing this. Mine arrived yesterday after shipping on 24 December. The 3 light levels look good, and the soft change as you move from level to level is a neat feature, at least inside the house. It's also great that you don't have to run through the flash as you change brightness. 

Tim


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

My test lights came in as well and look great! The Yinding appears to be more neutral than the SolarStorms which have a nice warm color. Even just testing them indoors, the light is much easier on the eyes. I will try to get them out for beam shot comparisons in the next few days.

Thanks to those who suggested a Nuetral light and Dora, you did it again! Nice job


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

Thanks again GJHS. Just had a great night ride last night with my Yinding on the bars and my XT-40 on the helmet. That is such a crazy good combo! For the price point, it is hard to beat the performance from this combo set up. Awesome.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

dawgman25 said:


> Thanks again GJHS. Just had a great night ride last night with my Yinding on the bars and my XT-40 on the helmet. That is such a crazy good combo! For the price point, it is hard to beat the performance from this combo set up. Awesome.


Thanks great, I'm happy we found the Yinding, it's a great light. Funny that the XT40 wasn't that popular until recent, it's a great helmet light with some decent throw.


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

They just seem to compliment each other very well. The Yinding upfront just over the wheel and the XT-40 aiming just past the Yinding to light up everything. Just love the throw on that. Still wouldn't mind getting another XT-40 to try on the bars too, or trying 2 Yindings on the bars. 

Now, if we could put the XT-40 in a smaller package for the helmet, that would be something.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

dawgman25 said:


> They just seem to compliment each other very well. The Yinding upfront just over the wheel and the XT-40 aiming just past the Yinding to light up everything. Just love the throw on that. Still wouldn't mind getting another XT-40 to try on the bars too, or trying 2 Yindings on the bars.
> 
> Now, if we could put the XT-40 in a smaller package for the helmet, that would be something.


When upgrade time comes, consider the X3 on the bars.


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

Yes, I have already thought about that one. I referred it over the Yinding to a riding buddy and he was using it last night for the first time. I recommended the X3 because he already had an X2, which he was using on the bars. Much better set up for him now. I have an X2 as well, so maybe get an X3 just for the heck of it for a matching pair to use once in a while. 

My family has already cut me off on lights.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Stick with your Yinding, upgrade later. There are some cool new lights coming. Dora just sent me this new Nitenumen dual beam light. So far it looks great. I posted a new thread, and will test it soon.


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

Ugh, that is all I need! I read the review, looks really cool. I have a lot of confidence now in GearBest as they seem to be doing things right with these lights.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

dawgman25 said:


> Ugh, that is all I need! I read the review, looks really cool. I have a lot of confidence now in GearBest as they seem to be doing things right with these lights.


Thank God


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## hankering (Dec 28, 2014)

drat, I ordered (earlier cool white) Dec. 22 -- so I was wrong to expect a battery box. My mistake, I guess I misread.

The included "battery pack" is just a shrinkwrapped block of four batteries -- has anyone opened up one of these shrinkwrap battery bundles who can say whether they're any good? I know they should each be charged individually, which I can't do as they're supplied. Curious to know what's under the shrinkwrap -- and if the enclosed AC adapter is safe -- if anyone knows

I'll buy a proper -- and waterproof -- battery box and known good batteries, regardless. And I've got a neutral white in the mail somewhere.


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## Niles (Feb 1, 2009)

Regarding waterproofness, is there a way for me to determine if mine is suitable for heavy rain if I'm not confident enough to take it apart?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Inspect the optics (perhaps, with magnifying glass) to see whether silicone gasket between it and front cover doesn't move. Also, try to move the lenses with some soft tool to check if they have any play.

Check the cable exit: in my case, rubber gland wasn't seated properly, and I've aligned & pressed it into its place myself.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

hey hank, others have stated the batteries are decent, and give run times close to 2 hours. AC adapter is suppose to be the standard 8V li-ion type and of good quality. Others have recommended measuring both the pack and adapter w/ a multimeter as a precaution.

Did you order yours via NL post?


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

just a heads up the yindings are officially back-ordered


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Niles said:


> Regarding waterproofness, is there a way for me to determine if mine is suitable for heavy rain if I'm not confident enough to take it apart?


As Archie said, just make sure the gasket is in the right place. Don't worry about taking the front screws off if necessary. When you reassemble it, just make sure the front cover is pushed in all the way, mine needed an extra snap to get it on completely.


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## hankering (Dec 28, 2014)

Yeah, I ordered my first one (light with battery pack) 
Netherlands Post Registered : Dec 26, 2014 10:18:35 AM PST
so it took til today to reach California.

I'm trying Singapore Post for the next order, maybe the Pacific Ocean is less of a drag on travel?

On waterproofness
-- the light head on mine looked odd because one of the O-rings was halfway exposed on one lens, but poking it back into place with a fingernail seems to have made everything consistent. I didn't try cranking on the hex screws, guessing it was probably tight enough.
-- the battery pack -- no way, unless there's some kind of waterproofing under the shrinkwrap.

On the battery pack, did anyone identify what's in their battery packs beyond "decent"?
Any identification of the original source? Any mention whether there's over/under voltage protection build into the pack, or (unlikely) the cells?

My concern is with repeated charging and aging, the batteries would differ eventually. That's the reason for charging each one separately fairly often. 

I have seen some discussion about how to wire a battery pack so the charging balances the cells but don't know how that would work, it's apparently not expected.


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

hankering said:


> I'm trying Singapore Post for the next order, maybe the Pacific Ocean is less of a drag on travel?


Mine came through Singapore post to Australia and it still took the same time as yours did. There was no tracking.

Tim


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

None of the commercial bike light battery packs (even from the higher priced name brand manufacturers) have built in balancing, or separate balance leads for a hobby charger. If you expect that, especially out of a cheap light - you have unrealistic expectations.

Feel free to break down your +-$10 battery and add balance leads. Of if your going to tear the pack apart anyway, replace the protection board with one that balances the pack during the times when it sits unused. Hunk Lee will build you a pack with quality cells and hobby charger leads, if you need it. Or you could buy a battery box, individual cells, and occasionally charge them separately in an external charger.

I wonder how many millions of people buy a cheap light, ride with it, and never worry about the balance of the cells. When the pack starts failing, they either buy a better pack, or choose to replace the whole kit with something newer, and maybe better. I wonder if the people who ride with the top of the line Lupine setups. wring their hands worrying about cells going out of balance. (Edit: As noted by Archie a few posts down, the Lupine batteries are self balancing.)

For water proofing (as in rain proof, not total submersion proof) batteries, you have three choices. Buy a name brand battery that is already in a hard or silicone case. Buy one of those cheep battery packs online that are encased in the silicone shell. They will be built with cells of unknown quality. Add your own water resistant solution with silicone tape, shrink tape, and/or plastic dip, or a zip lock baggie. And of course if you MUST have balance leads, how are you going to waterproof those?

I sometimes feel that the true battery nerds create unnecessary worry in the newbie who just bought his/her first lithium powered light.

If you want to get all DYI, and add improvements for your own curiosity and education, then go for it. But remember that it IS possible to just buy your light, and enjoy it.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Ian_C said:


> ... I wonder if the people who ride with the top of the line Lupine setups. wring their hands worrying about cells going out of balance....


I had chance to take apart two old Lupine standard 2S2P pack. Both had Sanyo 2600mAh cells in it. One pack was totaly worn out and the other was still well balanced after quite some usage. Saying that I think high quality cells in welded packs will hardly get unbalanced for our MTB use. Not saying it won't happen, it's just unlikely, since we use packs just few times a year. Let say up to 50 times which would get 500 cycles in 10 years. It would age out before it would worn out on cycles. Still even with godd quality cells checking and balancing pack few times a year is a good practice.

I agree, if the 2S2P battery pack is less than $20 you can't expect to be made from high quality cells, but it might be decent if you are lucky. Probably Yinding pack can be in this decent class. If I would get one I would measure capacity and plot discharge graph to see any differencies between the pairs.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Ian_C said:


> None of the commercial bike light battery packs (even from the higher priced name brand manufacturers) have built in balancing, or separate balance leads for a hobby charger. If you expect that, especially out of a cheap light - you have unrealistic expectations.
> 
> Feel free to break down your +-$10 battery down and add balance leads. Of if your going to tear apart the pack anyway, replace the protection board with one that balances the pack during the times when it sits unused. Hunk Lee will build you a pack with quality cells and hobby charger leads, if you need it. Or you could buy a battery box, individual cells, and occasionally charge them separately in an external charger.
> 
> ...


Couldn't of said it better myself. To me batteries are like, "Red-headed step children". You give them what they need to get by but if they give you any problems you toss them to the curb. :smilewinkgrin:


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Ian_C said:


> None of the commercial bike light battery packs (even from the higher priced name brand manufacturers) have built in balancing


Lupine 6.6 Ah Smartcore Battery


> The integrated balancing function increases our batteries' performance and life.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

-Archie- said:


> Lupine 6.6 Ah Smartcore Battery


Let's see if I got this right....Add a couple wires for balancing, a more advanced PCB, throw it in a nice looking case with voltage indicators and I get to pay $190 for that? After carefully considering this for about two seconds I think I can pass on that thought.

While it's nice to have added frills when buying something new, if the additional cost isn't reasonable or comparable to other like products then it really makes it hard to justify buying the more expensive product. Of course if you have deep pockets all of what I just said will make no difference to you.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

I personally won't buy Lupine either, but this was just example of high-end brand bike lightning: the people who ride with the top of the line Lupine setups don't need to worry about cells going out of balance. And BTW, this is not "voltage indicator" but remaining capacity meter: very different thing.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

-Archie- said:


> I personally won't buy Lupine either, but this was just example of high-end brand bike lightning: the people who ride with the top of the line Lupine setups don't need to worry about cells going out of balance. *And BTW, this is not "voltage indicator" but remaining capacity meter: very different thing.*


Ehhhh....okay, I'll give you a read out of true capacity is a little more useful than a read out of voltage...BUT...Let's face it, even if you know your battery is say at, "half capacity", "How useful is that information to you? Nope, the real issue you need to know about your battery is, _"How long can I ride at the output I'm using before the battery craps out"_? A capacity read out isn't going to tell you that unless you know the power output of the mode you are using and are good at doing the math in your head.

What would be more useful would be a circuit that would calculate the power output of your mode, do the math for you and then tell you, "You have such and such time before the lamp powers down. Now THAT _could_ be quite useful. Add a wireless blue tooth indicator that I can mount to the bars and I might be willing to pay $120 for a good battery set-up like that. :ihih:


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

You may send a letter to Lupine and propose to implement that.


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## circusubet (Aug 5, 2006)

ledoman said:


> You are not alone
> 
> The only one I know are LED-DNA or FastTech 10deg lenses which should be easily exchanged. Somewhere back in this thred is written how - look for bhocewar's posts.
> I've already tried to make it wider with one 25deg lense to compare to my moded MJ880 klone wich has 10+25deg lenses.


Thanks once again Ledo. I have followed this thread from the beginning. I saw the post but was, as always, not sure which degree was correct for throw. It is threads like this one and the charger-battery thread by Cat that help guys like me.

Thx
John


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## dan4jeepin (Apr 9, 2007)

My light heads and free battery case came in yesterday (shipped Dec 27th). Quality on the lights seem good but I haven't got a chance to take them apart yet. Used one for about 30mins today and was impressed by it. Battery case seems pretty low quality but does work. I like my old Panovo case better but can't complain considering it was free. Included a picture of the Yinding next to my old Magicshine major difference in size.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

190 bucks for a 6.6 Ah battery. Someone should get kicked in the nuts for that setting that price.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Well, you got also some kind of lifetime warranty. Don't know exact terms, but if it gets faulty you would get another one for free. So in other words you pay for warranty, AFAIK.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

Ok, I'll admit I missed that feature on the Lupine SmartCore packs. I will never be able to afford a Lupine, so I didn't read that carefully, before I went on my rant.

Balance protection boards are 2 for $13.80 ($6.90 each). (Linked sample has a 7 Amp cut off? Is that too hight? What should it be for a 2 or 3 LED bike light)

The $119.90 Magicshine Eagle 600 USB has an "easy to read OLED display indicates battery charge state, mode, and calculated run time at the current output." I think that's what Cat was asking for. Now if we could just find a third party selling the boards to do that . . .


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

My shipping status updated to reached sorting facility in NL. I think only a couple weeks more  Anyone have beam shots of the NW yinding tint yet?

people seem pretty happy with hunklee batteries and they dont have balancing leads. The SS box with quality cells and charger seems like an epic option too. I like taking time picking good gear. But, the setup I pick should be simple and easy to use during day to day. I agree with the just ride and keep it simple philosophy. I hope everyone is able to pick what works best for them.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I took beam shots of all the lights tonight. I will post them tomorrow.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Ian_C said:


> Ok, I'll admit I missed that feature on the Lupine SmartCore packs. I will never be able to afford a Lupine, so I didn't read that carefully, before I went on my rant.


No problem. 



> Balance protection boards are 2 for $13.80 ($6.90 each).


Description is in Chinglish language: "for 2 Packs" means "for 2-cell battery". Price of each PCB is (US $13.80 + US $3.50 shipping) = 17.30 USD



> (Linked sample has a 7 Amp cut off? Is that too hight? What should it be for a 2 or 3 LED bike light)


I'm not sure what you mean. 7A is enough to connect two or three average bike lights to single battery.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

hankering said:


> On waterproofness
> -- the light head on mine looked odd because one of the O-rings was halfway exposed on one lens, but poking it back into place with a fingernail seems to have made everything consistent.


That's bad. In properly assembled light with correct parts, you can't move the O-ring freely by finger: it should be tightly pressed between the optics and front cover. If your light is the same as in my case, I'd suggest to open it & add some extra O-rings to keep the water out - otherwise humidity will most likely kill it.



> Any mention whether there's over/under voltage protection build into the pack, or (unlikely) the cells?


It should be present, like in all the other packs. How well it actually works - that's another question...



> I have seen some discussion about how to wire a battery pack so the charging balances the cells but don't know how that would work, it's apparently not expected.


Do you already have balancing charger?


----------



## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

Can someone tell them apart?

One 25$ Yinding and one 115$ Gemini.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

... electronics and QC, Gemini on the right


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## inch (Feb 6, 2014)

Are there any comparison shots of the Yinding with different lenses/angles?


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Appel said:


> Can someone tell the difference?
> 
> One 25$ Yinding and one 115$ Gemini.
> 
> View attachment 958107


Should post up pics of the guts. It wasn't uncommon to see things like this in car audio, sometimes copies and sometimes th ey were actually made in the same build houses. In the case of the latter, usually the ones for major brand names would have better components etc. Sometimes though, you would get lucky and find an identical product for a fraction of the price. Sometimes with smaller manufacturers, they didn't even design the product, but rather shopped around for a design they liked, added their name and (maybe) a few refinements. Since the driver seems to program in the same fashion it really makes me wonder if this could be a similar situation


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Thanks GJHS, if you could post a pic of your helmet setup that would be awesome. If you have the xt40 or yinding on there, it would be great to see either mounted.


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## enFuego (Aug 1, 2007)

First off, thanks to everyone making this thread 32 pages long!
Especially, GJHS and his connections at Gearbest, so I could buy one of these little marvels.
If anyone cares, here's my experience :
My Cool White Lamp Set arrived today (Ventura County, Calif). Ordered on Dec 21st, Shipped on the 26th. The tracking info on GB is useless - As soon as a tracking # was available, the "progress bar" of the order was 3/4 done. Now that it was actually *delivered* , it still shows the same amount, 3/4 done!
The Lamp Set came in a cardboard storage box the has a bike light of a very different design pictured on it. (Just like in the original post #1) 
The little Yindig seems to work pretty good, but I'll know more tonight just how well it performs with a full charge. I don't plan to disassemble it any time soon - "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." - update - I got bored, and opened it up. Front and back seal looked to be in correct position. Added the recommended zip tie to the power cable, and a bit more heat-sink paste for peace of mind.
Hopefully, the "Natural White" Lamp-only will be arriving soon. That one was ordered on Dec 25th, and shipped on Jan 12th.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Here are the beam shots of the Neutral White Yinding

Low







Medium







High







Yinding Neutral High on the Bars + XT40 Neutral on the Helmet
Both on High








For comparison here is the Cool White and the Neutral















As I mentioned the Yinding Neutral is more Neutral than the SolarStorm X3/XT40


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

That looks great, but more like "warm white" than neutral.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Agreed, it's pretty warm. After taking the pictures, my nephew and I went for a hike. He was wearing the Yinding on the supplied headband. After using it for a while, it's very easy on the eyes, not harsh at all and still bright. These Yindings make great headlights for hiking


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah the Neutral looks more Sepia. The gravel and the grass that's on the left side of the road respond better under the Cool White, I think.

Thanks for posting these, GJHS.


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## Niles (Feb 1, 2009)

Alright, I got my lights.

A visual inspection appears that all the o-rings around the lenses are secure and in place. The only place I worry about water entry is at the power cable. Below is a picture. What do you guys think?









Btw, how are you guys attaching the light to your helmets?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Appel said:


> Can someone tell them apart?
> 
> One 25$ Yinding and one 115$ Gemini.
> 
> View attachment 958107


I would say the Gemini is the one on the right. Regardless, this is why we call these types of lamps "Duo clones". ( by the way I don't own either of those so I'm just judging by what I will call, "little refinements" noticeable in the photos.)


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Cat-man-do said:


> I would say the Gemini is the one on the right. Regardless, this is why we call these types of lamps "Duo clones". ( by the way I don't own either of those so I'm just judging by what I will call, "little refinements" noticeable in the photos.)


The injection moulding on the left is better though.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

enFuego said:


> The tracking info on GB is useless - As soon as a tracking # was available, the "progress bar" of the order was 3/4 done. Now that it was actually *delivered* , it still shows the same amount, 3/4 done!


I've noticed that as well. Apparently their ordering/monitoring software is buggy or faulty (order cancellation mystery perhaps also was caused by that), but postal tracking works fine: as soon as you've got your tracking number, GB info may be safely ignored anyway.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Niles said:


> The only place I worry about water entry is at the power cable. Below is a picture. What do you guys think?


Mine was the same: result of lousy assembling. Just put the rubber boot in correct place yourself: it will restore its shape and cover the hole firmly.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> I've noticed that as well. Apparently their ordering/monitoring software is buggy or faulty (order cancellation mystery perhaps also was caused by that), but postal tracking works fine: as soon as you've got your tracking number, GB info may be safely ignored anyway.


17Track.net is the site to track packages as soon as the tracking number works. You can track it all the way to delivery.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Thanks for the beamshots. The lights do look a bit warm in the pictures, like the warm cree leds in my home. It does look good combined with the xt40 though.


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## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

Niles said:


> Btw, how are you guys attaching the light to your helmets?


i use a Hope helmet mount and I've got the Hope bar mount as well.


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## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

seeing these beam shots with the xt40 has got me tempted, but I've got 2 of the yindings. 

do I stick with the yinding on the helmet, or is the xt40 that much better I should get one?


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

17Track did not work for me. I watched my package through Netherlands Post. After it was handed over to Canada Post, I've been tracking it there. I'm thinking on Monday or Tuesday my little Christmas present to myself will arrive.

Netherlands Post: | PostNL
Canada Post: http://www.canadapost.ca/cpotools/apps/track/personal/findByTrackNumber?execution=e1s1

Edit: So now I go check it & naturally it shows up on 17Track. That pop-over showing a parcel delivered to Afghanistan confused me. I guess I'm easily confused these days. LOL


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

Niles said:


> Btw, how are you guys attaching the light to your helmets?


If you happen to have a Giro Atmos you can do like I did to get a tight, low fit. Works really well.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Update: I've fixed my Yinding with loose optics. Found appropriate silicone O-rings in my spare parts (probably, from broken torch extension tube), and put them instead of original gasket.

Most complicate job is, to align them properly. I've ended up with this method: put the light in jaw vice in vertical position, carefully stack TIRs with rings on top of them into place, then put the front bezel and screws, but do not tighten them. Using round plastic object, align the rings to match the openings (I've used pencil's cap) by circular movement. Be extremely careful and avoid scratching of TIR surface. Make sure the rings are in place, and tighten the screws.

That's all!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

That tint posted by GJHS doesn't look like a 3C at all! 

-Garry


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

To be honest, after seeing those pictures I think cool white is better. 
The NW is way too warm to be used as bike light, especially on trails with soil and roots


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I think it's a false representation of "neutral white". Definitely looks warm white. I'll report back on mine which is scheduled for delivery tomorrow. I can compare it to 3C and 4C tints. 

-Garry


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

garrybunk said:


> That tint posted by GJHS doesn't look like a 3C at all!
> 
> -Garry


It looks warmer than the neutral white LEDs I got to upgrade the KD light. That one is perfect. It may just be the camera though.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Ofroad'bent said:


> .... It may just be the camera though.


I think that is probably the case. My 3C light does not look like what was posted at all. I don't really find that using beamshots to determine much of anything about a light to be very useful. I've taken beamshots of a few of my lights and they always look far different than real life.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I posted in my GearBest 3X Review thread where my pics came out looking much different than pics taken at another time even though I had used the same camera settings. In my case the tint looked more into the cool white spectrum than into the neutral/warm spectrum. I'm sure it's possible GJHS'S could have swung the other way. 

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> I posted in my GearBest 3X Review thread where my pics came out looking much different than pics taken at another time even though I had used the same camera settings. In my case the tint looked more into the cool white spectrum than into the neutral/warm spectrum. I'm sure it's possible GJHS'S could have swung the other way.
> 
> -Garry


I'm interested in seeing other peoples pictures. The color you see on my beamshots is warm and in person is almost exactly the same. My Yinding is very warm, so if others report the same, I will write to see what's up. Maybe it's just mine

The Solarstorm color is also accurate and I would say more 3C


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

GJHS said:


> I'm interested in seeing other peoples pictures. The color you see on my beamshots is warm and in person is almost exactly the same. My Yinding is very warm, so if others report the same, I will write to see what's up. Maybe it's just mine
> 
> The Solarstorm color is also accurate and I would say more 3C


I would agreed those beamshots don't look like 3C, more like 5 or maybe even 7 tint.

My "neutral" white Yinding should be here in the next few days (currently clearing customs), and I have a quite a few other lights I've modded with neutral tints so I have some known references to compare against.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Solarstorms tint looks nice, even the yinding cool white looks closer to neutral. Well there's always the KD upgrade route to correct the tint and driver menu problem.

Hope the rest of the batch are a bit more neutral.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I've checked it with Kaidomain and they confirmed their KD2 neutral one is 3C tint. I'm waiting to get both KD2 and Yinding in neutral. Will compare tints then....

Probably is also a problem that we not used on those kind of light. If you are riding several years with cool one then there is some "footprint" in our brains I think.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

ledoman said:


> Probably is also a problem that we not used on those kind of light. If you are riding several years with cool one then there is some "footprint" in our brains I think.


Maybe. OTOH, formerly I've used halogen lights, so there's nothing new for me to have different spectrum. I'm totally happy with cool white now, and don't want to go warmer at the price of reduced brightness...


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

Go one of my lightheads (nlpost won singpost and swisspost). Lamp looks brighter than my 2nd gen yinding when compared indoors side by side. I don't find it too warm/yellow. In forest the first impression was I could see the ground and trees and everything really well, but the beam itself did not look as impressive as the blue one from the 2nd generation. Difficult to explain, but the difference is I don't see the beam itself, I see the stuff the beam hits. Excellent.

Button stays green at quite a lot lower input voltage than my 2nd generation yinding. That's good news too, possibly. But that's maybe just button not changing colour when dropping out of regulation like the 2nd gen one did I believe. I haven't done any measurements yet.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Edzackery. You have to use the same camera settings even when different cameras can produce slightly different results. Maybe the MTBRs official to compare. I use these when I take beamshots.


Ofroad'bent said:


> ... It may just be the camera though.


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## bianchifan (Feb 13, 2010)

GJHS said:


> Here are the beam shots of the Neutral White Yinding


Neutral white? haha...

In Germany "Neutral White" is defined by the EU, its about 5700° Kelvin.
In America its defined by ANSI..
I'm a great fan of Frank Zappa: "America is wonderful, wonderful,wonderful..."

Until a couple of years ago most art studios used a normlight about 5500° K, today most may prefer 5000° C Kelvin.
Until now I opposed this trend, all my monitors are calibrated to 5500° K.
For me personally 5000° K isn't white any more...

Anyway, it's hard to believe Yinding's 3C should be 3C!
For I knew "3B" from my X2 mod, "3C" was never an option for me.
The Solarstorm's colours may be correct, they are even more yellow than my X2.
The Yinding's are either extremly outline or someone grabbed the wrong emitters.

Please have a look at the binnings








For comparison: This is the look of "4C" binnigs, T6 & U2:


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Got my "neutral" today.
first imression...it is WARM!

a lot closer to my 3500K warm homemade led than my T6-3B Yinding.
It is very close to a 60W incandescent light

Later in the evening I will go for a ride, and will try to make some shots on snow and on dry terrain.

CW vs "neutral"









It would be interesting to compare to this one
https://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023818


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

That's a big let down  
Waited a month, delay then wrong tint, cancelling my order! Thanks for making me wait out GB. Just hope your cool white version is still in good quality now.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Die looks very orange, that is true 


bhocewar said:


> Got my "neutral" today.
> first imression...it is WARM!
> 
> a lot closer to my 3500K warm homemade led than my T6-3B Yinding.
> ...


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

bhocewar said:


> It would be interesting to compare to this one
> http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023818


I am awaiting the arrival of both Yinding and Kaidomain MJ-880 clone in NW, will report back here if they are ever delivered (looks like USPS has already lost the Yinding.)


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Never seen the phosphor on a Cree die look like that. 

*****


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Is that orange a phosphor coating applied to both emitter and star?


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

The warmer the tint the more yellow/orange the phosphor of the LED will look.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Nope, it is a mixture of blue and yellow phosphor applied to a led die. Warmer tints are "more yellow".



andychrist said:


> Is that orange a phosphor coating applied to both emitter and star?


Still we can swap the leds ...


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

May is checking the tint with Yinding and I should have a answer tonight. With that said, outdoors the tint is nice. It is warmer than the Solarstorms, yet still useable for trail use.

I will post her answer as soon as I have it.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

MK96 said:


> Nope, it is a mixture of blue and yellow phosphor applied to a led die. Warmer tints are "more yellow".
> 
> Still we can swap the leds ...


Not as easily as I'd like. When they are separate emitters it is trivial to do, but the custom MCPCB used in this light makes that a bit more challenging.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Lets see maybe GJHS finds a solution to the led problem. Is it still usable with another bar mounted cool white light mixed together. The beam shots leave much to be desired.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I just received my Yinding. I'm at work (and without a battery pack), but first impressions are pretty good for a light at this price. I see a slight fingerprint on one of the TIRs which I can't wipe off (guessing it's on the inside/backside). One of the front o-rings is sticking out slightly from the bezel (toward the center of the TIR, but just slightly). Other than that it looks and feels like a nice quality light, better than many cheap Chinese lights (flashlights or bike lights) I've handled. Even the handlebar mounting piece feels and looks higher quality. Will report back on tint later tonight. 

Packaging wasn't so great. Just tossed in a bubble envelope and it seems every bubble was popped. It survived though. 

-Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

jokaankit said:


> Lets see maybe GJHS finds a solution to the led problem. Is it still usable with another bar mounted cool white light mixed together. The beam shots leave much to be desired.


I was wondering if it could mix well in order to provide a "best of both worlds" kind of setup.

-Garry


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> I see a slight fingerprint on one of the TIRs which I can't wipe off (guessing it's on the inside/backside).


In my case, it was inside of both TIRs, unfortunately. But as any Chinese light should be disassembled first anyway - no big deal actually.

Don't forget to secure the cable!


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

After reading how yellow the light is, I would like to change my order to cool white, but as unresponsive as Gearbest is, I will maybe just cancel the order. It is been a few days since I've written to May but didn't receive any answer. 
Hopefully I will receive answer to message sent over their contact form and they will change the order.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Snakes said:


> After reading how yellow the light is, I would like to change my order to cool white, but as unresponsive as Gearbest is, I will maybe just cancel the order. It is been a few days since I've written to May but didn't receive any answer.
> Hopefully I will receive answer to message sent over their contact form and they will change the order.


If you need help let me know and write [email protected] direct. If your order hasn't shipped then no problem. I wil have the answer about the tint tonight, maybe you want to wait until then


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

I've just discovered a bug in Yindins's driver: connected it to fully charged powerful battery and was surprised by flashing red status LED under button cap! Checked the voltage to be sure (it was full indeed), then reconnected the light: steady green LED this time.

Tried reconnecting several times, and managed to reproduce the issue once more. So, be aware: if you'll get "Battery empty" warning when preparing to the ride, just reconnect it.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I found a similar driver bug with an MJ-880 KD clone. Well let's hope I get a neutral tint when my two Yindings arrive


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

You guys complaining to Gearbest about the tint are going ruin this whole customization thing for everyone. They are going to get pissed and then they will be unwilling to anything out of the ordinary. Let GJHS handle it.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

-Archie- said:


> I've just discovered a bug in Yindins's driver: connected it to fully charged powerful battery and was surprised by flashing red status LED under button cap! Checked the voltage to be sure (it was full indeed), then reconnected the light: steady green LED this time.
> 
> Tried reconnecting several times, and managed to reproduce the issue once more. So, be aware: if you'll get "Battery empty" warning when preparing to the ride, just reconnect it.


I've seen a similar thing with my SolarStorm X2. My theory is these battery gauges sometimes glitch out due to the voltage jumping around too much when plugging in the cable. It hasn't annoyed me enough to fix the problem with my X2, but I suspect installing a 47-100uf smoothing capacitor across the input leads would stop this from happening.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

That is not a bug, but feature.  Even Magicshines (808) have this issue.

You have to connect cables very quickly to avoid this problem

Sorry, but I forgot my camera at home tonight, so no shots today. I will try again tomorrow.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

varider said:


> You guys complaining to Gearbest about the tint are going ruin this whole customization thing for everyone. They are going to get pissed and then they will be unwilling to anything out of the ordinary. Let GJHS handle it.


I'm on it, have been for days. Just give me a little while before you contact them directly, please. I don't think we have to accept it because they made it, right is right.

If you get yours, post your thoughts here And maybe some beamshots


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## Niles (Feb 1, 2009)

Do your lights get real hot? After about 15 mins of use the body of the light is extremely hot. Is that normal?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok Guys, the manufacturer is saying that the tint is 3C. I need some more proof to prove that it is or is not 3C. GearBest is doing the right thing, so please just present the facts so that they can prove or disprove 3C and fix this. Maybe some beam shots of two side by side. 

Could the optics make the tint darker? I have confirmed that the second batch won't be shipped until everything is confirmed, so don't worry.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Niles said:


> Do your lights get real hot? After about 15 mins of use the body of the light is extremely hot. Is that normal?


 Yes, normal for high quality lights. That shows the quality of the Yinding. Quality lights take the heat and transfer it to the case to allow cooling, rather that keeping it in and damaging the emitters.

Flashlights, which are stationary, step down from high after minutes to prevent damage, bike lights stay high because moving provides the necessary cooling air. If you stop for a break either turn off the light or put it on low so you don't damage the light. Indoors, use a fan.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Got some decent pics of side by side with 3C & 4C tints but I can't post them until tomorrow. It's definitely warmer than 4C bit not overly warm. I should have taken a pic side by side with my favorite 5B1 but didn't. 

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> Got some decent pics of side by side with 3C & 4C tints but I can't post them until tomorrow. It's definitely warmer than 4C bit not overly warm. I should have taken a pic side by side with my favorite 5B1 but didn't.
> 
> -Garry


Are you able to take photos of the bare emitters? I imagine that you can see a difference


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I won't have time tonight or tomorrow to do so. Perhaps another day. Tomorrow night I'm busy though too. 

-Garry


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## bianchifan (Feb 13, 2010)

I do not have any 3C until now so you must interpolate 
3A left, 4C right
 

..and from a LEDDNA special offer "3200K-warmwhite" unknown Emitter (Luxeon class)


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

bianchifan said:


> I do not have any 3C until now so you must interpolate
> 3A left, 4C right
> 
> 
> ..and from a LEDDNA special offer "3200K-warmwhite" unknown Emitter (Luxeon class)


Hard to see the difference


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS said:


> Hard to see the difference


The 3A is Lemon Yellow, the "3200K-warm-white" kinda Egg Yolk, the 4C somewhere inbetween.








Product ID : CREEXML2-NW296 (T5?)


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

I tried to catch true colors...










and with two different camera setting


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Niles said:


> Do your lights get real hot? After about 15 mins of use the body of the light is extremely hot. Is that normal?


There isn't a lot of heat sinking area on the small yinding light body.
You can add some more with a finned aluminum GoPro mount from Vancbiker. 
You could also attach heat sink fins on top wth thermal epoxy if you want to customize but it will look a bit weird.

In general, don't run it on high without airflow.


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

I did workout with my "nuetral", with two 3400mah protected Panasonic NCR18650B, about one meter wire and lamp at high the indicator turned red after 72 minutes.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

My quick tint analysis from last night and some early this morning tells me my Yinding (perhaps some samples differ), that the stock "Neutral tint" is very close to my favorite 5B1. The 5B1's I buy from FastTech are XM-L2 T5 bin (doesn't bother me as I prefer the enhanced color rendition over the slight brightness difference). Here are a few quick pics. My gallery is here.

Yinding left, an Ultrafire MT-05s modded to XM-L2 T5 5B1 on right:



Now the big one. XM-L2 T6 3C (or perhaps a U2 3C) on left, XM-L T6 4C middle, XM-L2 T5 5B1 on right, and my Yinding top center:



That 4C doesn't really come out right, probably because it's in a small reflector light which has a very floody beam. It's definitely more neutral than the 3C.

Closeup of the XM-L2 T5 5B1:


I'm happy! I wasn't super thrilled about a 3C tint, but love that its at least very close to my favorite 5B1!

By the way, I did find that my white balance settings were throwing off the tint (not shown in any of the photos I took). They were in fact looking much more cool white (and bluish) before I adjusted it. Oh, and only look at these photos for tint. I sped up the shutter in order to see the tints better. The wall is the best I can do for a "white wall". It's pretty much a "pure white" wall.

-Garry

EDIT - Corrected caption on pic #2 (3C tint on the LEFT).


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> I'm happy! I wasn't super thrilled about a 3C tint, but love that its at least very close to my favorite 5B1!
> 
> -Garry


I agree that 3C tint is barely neutral (in my book). My favorite tints are usually 4C or 4D but 5B1 would probably be good too. I modded my SolarStorm X2 with XML2 T6-4C and was really happy with the tint.

My Yinding arrives today so I should be able to give some feedback on the tint tonight.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> Now the big one. XM-L2 T6 3C (or perhaps a U2 3C) on right, XM-L T6 4C middle, XM-L2 T5 5B1 on right, and my Yinding top center:


Am assumingyou meant

XM-L2 T6 3C (or perhaps a U2 3C) on *left*?

Because the spot on the right does actually come close to the Yinding on top.

They all beat out the Cool Whites that came with all my old LED bike lamps, that's for sure.

Thanks for posting Garry!


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> Now the big one. XM-L2 T6 3C (or perhaps a U2 3C) *on right*, XM-L T6 4C middle, XM-L2 T5 5B1 *on right*, and my Yinding top center:


Which right is right?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

andychrist said:


> Am assumingyou meant
> 
> XM-L2 T6 3C (or perhaps a U2 3C) on *left*?


Ah! Yes! Good catch! Sorry, that's what I get for posting in a hurry! I'll correct it now.

-Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

By the way, one nice feature I noticed with this light is that even though "Off" is in the mode cycle, you never have to be in the dark since the light fades to off. If you tap fast enough it just goes right past off back to low without the light going off at all (I actually struggled a little to find off during my testing).

Current measurements on mine with an 8.32v battery pack (unprotected cells in an older Pannova case):

Low - 0.57A (24%)
Med - 1.19A (49%)
High - 2.41A (100%)

Pics:









-Garry


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> By the way, one nice feature I noticed with this light is that even though "Off" is in the mode cycle, you never have to be in the dark since the light fades to off. If you tap fast enough it just goes right past off back to low without the light going off at all (I actually struggled a little to find off during my testing).


Sorry man, you're late:
Original/Real Yinding YD 2xU2 found - Page 30- Mtbr.com


-Archie- said:


> In this Yinding, you don't actually have to go through OFF phase. The driver uses steady change of intensity, so if you press the button twice quickly ("double-click" in PC mouse language), you'll get next level without switching the light completely.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Garry this is your 3C Yinding pulling 2.4A?


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

My CW YD pulls 2,5A (cold start) and my NW YD just 1,9A (also cold start) Batteries were not fully charged and they are 5 years old Sanyos
from dead laptop, each around 600mAh juice still in them.

Ok...going for a ride to take some shots.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

ledoman said:


> Garry this is your 3C Yinding pulling 2.4A?


Yes, the "supposed" 3C Yinding.



-Archie- said:


> Sorry man, you're late:
> Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
> In this Yinding, you don't actually have to go through OFF phase. The driver uses steady change of intensity, so if you press the button twice quickly ("double-click" in PC mouse language), you'll get next level without switching the light completely.


Whoops! I now remember reading that!

-Garry


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## fonzeka (Jan 27, 2015)

Hi, my first post here and got the say thanks for this nice group buy 
Got my light last week and posted a quick review on the Gearbest site.
You have to look at the voltage also when you check the current draw because this light seems very nicely regulated.
I tested mine on my bench power supply at 8,4V (no voltage sag) and got Low 0,4A Medium 0,74A and High 1,47A, parasitic drain was ~20mA.
I'll see if I can get some comparison shoots against other neutral lights, at first look I didn't think it looked to warm at all.


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## fonzeka (Jan 27, 2015)

Alright I did a quick comparison shot against my white garage door.
Left is a neutral white Nichia 219BT (spec says 4260-4745K), middle Yinding "3C" and to the right a warm white Cree XR-E.








Only had the mobile phone at hand and the hot spots got a bit overexposed.
The high CRI Nichia which I think has the best tint of all my lights looks slightly colder but I think you can tell there is a big difference against a true warm white light.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Welcome over here fonzeka! Are those colors accurate? They look cooler than just "slightly" to me. 

-Garry


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## fonzeka (Jan 27, 2015)

Thanks Garry 
No colors are not that accurate, they don't look that cold in real life.
I'll see if I can get some better shots later.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

I think all the screenshots looks great. Start shipping those lights now!


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## AndySTi (Aug 19, 2009)

GJHS, 
Just got my "cool" light yesterday. Thanks for working with GearBest and helping us get a quality light for a great price. Looking forward to getting out on the road with it - will be using it for road riding mainly.

Thanks,
Andy


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Here are my shots of 3 original yindings with 3 different tints. There are "NW (3C)" and CW(1A) from GB and the first YD upgraded to XML2-T6-3B

Note: camera settings are not "standard mtbr settings" so these pics are comparable just between them selfs.












































































On a test ride I noticed that the "NW" version turns red indicator light very early...too early.
Later at home I opened it up. The driver is exactly the same as CW version.

I rode every light for 10 minutes and your eyes quickly adapts to all tints. "NW" seems very pleasant but you notice 
a lack of lumens. Looks like 30-40% dimmer than CW or 3B. CW and 3B have about the same brightness but 3B feels
more pleasant and not so harsh.

Conclusion: I will keep my old 3B YD and probably sell both GB YDs and will keep on searching for matching tint to my
old YD.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

The 3C looks almost like the halogen lights of the old days.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Great photos guys, thanks for taking some time to help. Please keep them coming especially if you have a real 3C. I will present them tonight


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## fonzeka (Jan 27, 2015)

Ok here is a better tint comparison from me 
Left Cree XP-L 2C, bottom XM-L2 1A, right Nichia 219BT neutral and on top the Yinding 3C.


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## Punto Pete (Mar 20, 2010)

Finally got out on the trail with my pair of "normal" cool white yindings. fantastic light, very impressed, I think I need to try some different lenses in the head lamp though. 

Thanks again GJHS for your efforts sorting this


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

fonzeka said:


> Ok here is a better tint comparison from me
> Left Cree XP-L 2C, bottom XM-L2 1A, right Nichia 219BT neutral and on top the Yinding 3C.
> View attachment 959162


It looks close to neutral in this picture. However, all the trail beam shots indicate the tint is too warm/brownish. The brownish hue makes it look warmer than all my "warm" feit and cree LEDs.

Can someone comment on combining NW Yinding on bar with CW yinding on the bar? GJHS's what are your thoughts on the NW Yinding and NW xt40 combo?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I just went outside and turned on the NW and CW together and they mix well. 

If you put the XT40 on the helmet, it will work, keeping in mind that XT40 is much brighter than the Yinding. If you didn't buy yet and are looking for a good combo go with the X3 on the bars and XT40 on your helmet. Both lights are a evenly matched brightness wise.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

bhocewar said:


> I rode every light for 10 minutes and your eyes quickly adapts to all tints. "NW" seems very pleasant but you notice
> a lack of lumens. Looks like 30-40% dimmer than CW or 3B.


Thanks for the pics! I'm glad I haven't ordered that NW version...


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

A fix is on the way. I'm waiting to hear from GearBest so nobody should worry, you will get 3C. Just be patient please


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok Guys
I know the 3C lights are being delivered and people are just receiving them. Is there anyone who has a different tint than what has been posted? Is there anyone that received a True 3C Yinding? The manufacturer thinks not all are warm.

A solution is in the works, once they confirm that the warmer tint isn't just a few lights in the batch. I'm doing my best to communicate what's happening. Don't worry it will be fixed, mistakes happen with new lights.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Hmm but how will we know which version of the light will we get, how to know that they are from the "good" batch?
They should write in the store that it is a fixed version.
I am in the process of changing my order to cool white, my order should be changed soon.

Maybe I will order another warm white version later, once it is confirmed that they are ok.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

GHJS, great job you are doing for us. Thanks!



GJHS said:


> Ok Guys
> I know the 3C lights are being delivered and people are just receiving them. Is there anyone who has a different tint than what has been posted? Is there anyone that received a True 3C Yinding? The manufacturer thinks not all are warm.
> 
> A solution is in the works, once they confirm that the warmer tint isn't just a few lights in the batch. I'm doing my best to communicate what's happening. Don't worry it will be fixed, mistakes happen with new lights.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I'm away ATM so can't tell. There is one shippment waiting for me at post office, but don't know it s Yinding or not. By the next week I should be able to compare KD2, 880 clone and Yinding all supossedly with 3C leds. At least KD2 seems pretty warm to me too, so I'm suspecting they might got leds from the same source.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

I have a Gemini duo XM-L2 U2 but I don't know what tint that light has. It would be nice to know so I can have the duo as a reference light. 
Anyhow, I mailed gemini to ask them but they could not help. Here is their reply...

"Thank you for your enquiry.

We don't have that information available but encourage you to have a look at the beam shots at the bottom of the DUO's product page: DUO LED Light System | Gemini Lights

Regards"


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Thanks GJHS, we greatly appreciate all your doing. Yinding should be here today, I have a lot of warm lights at home which i can use to single out a color temperature range.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Appel said:


> I have a Gemini duo XM-L2 U2 but I don't know what tint that light has. It would be nice to know so I can have the duo as a reference light.
> Anyhow, I mailed gemini to ask them but they could not help. Here is their reply...
> 
> "Thank you for your enquiry.
> ...


At some point I asked this same question here - should be a 1a if I recall. My Yinding (older original one) is a T6-3B and is noticeably more peach to me. These 3Cs look way too yellow for my taste...reminds me of my old Vistalite halogen lights (think someone else mentioned that too).


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## fonzeka (Jan 27, 2015)

Just realized I actually got a triple XM-L light with a 3C tint, so here is another comparison.
Yinding to the right is clearly much warmer















Tried a couple of pictures under UV light but it's kind of hard to compare with the reflector still in place.
Warm white XR-E on the right.


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

My cool white Yindings finally arrived. Opened one up to check things out. Made the following modifications:
- Added Arctic Silver under the LEDs. There was some thermal paste but not over the whole area. 
- Added zip tie to hold the power cable into the housing. 
- Replaced the lenses with the following that I had ordered a while ago from Fasttech. They were "drop-in" after removing the holder. Noticed a slightly tighter beam than what came with the Yinding $2.04 21.2*12.6mm PMMA Optical Lens for Cree XM-L T5/T6/U2 (5-Pack) 5-pack - beam angle 10 degree / light transmittance 93% at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
- Replaced the mount with one of Vancbiker's Aluminum GoPro mounts from the DIY forum.

Ran the light on the helmet in conjunction with a Triple XM-L2 T6 3A light I built for the bars (http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/35mm-easy2led-build-875382.html?highlight=triple). I'm only running the bar at 1.5A so maybe 1300 lumens. The CW Yinding seems to drown out the bar light, mainly due to the differences in tint. I may need to go to 2A or 2.5A on the bar light or swap out the LEDs on the Yinding to match the T6 3A of the bar.

My other helmet light is a single XM-L2 U2 1C running at 3A with a Taskled driver and Ledil LXM-RS Optic. I was spoiled by the Taskled driver as it is setup as 2 modes (3A and ~1.5A) with a momentary switch that made it very easy to switch between High and Low and back to high as I would adjust a lot to conserve battery life when climbing. Definitely have to plan ahead on the Yinding when switching modes. I think the Yinding would also benefit with a taller switch boot that sticks out further to make it easier to switch modes on the fly. Anyone looked at different switch boots yet?

Overall I'm happy with the light. I've got a second one that I can use for more tinkering.


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

Left is "nuetral" yinding at low, right is old 20W orienteering halogen headlamp (7 cell battery pack instead of 6, so slightly overdriven). Not sure how well is is seen here but halogen looks a lot warmer.








All of my 3 yindings has about same tint, one of them is maybe slightly more green than others.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

You are saying you have 3 neutral 3C Yindings bought at GearBest and they all look like left beam? Weird, but that one actually looks like 3C.

Did not expect that.

Could you take a shot outside with a high quality camera? And can you take a shot of leds dies.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I'm thinking most of you will be very happy with the solution that I suggested and GearBest liked. I will update you when we see how many are warm and if any are truly 3C.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

bhocewar said:


> You are saying you have 3 neutral 3C Yindings bought at GearBest and they all look like left beam? Weird, but that one actually looks like 3C. Did not expect that.


I think he was trying to say that he wasn't sure how realistic the tints actually came out in the photo. I think the photo is not realisted and that both lights should shift further toward "warm".

-Garry


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> I'm thinking most of you will be very happy with the solution that I suggested and GearBest liked. I will update you when we see how many are warm and if any are truly 3C.


Let me guess... Free shipping of LED base with correct tint?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> Let me guess... Free shipping of LED base with correct tint?


Hmmm, maybe :ihih:


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## eTrex_FSR (Dec 18, 2009)

well, I first ordered the cool white version end of december. than I ordered 2 units of the natural white version. I received them a few days ago and unfortuantely they seem a bit to much to warm... So far only was able to check inside, but my floor seems brownish/orange compared to the cool white. and less bright also. not so happy with the buy


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Picked up my neutral white Yinding at the post office this today and just in time for a planned ride tonight! Popped the light onto Hope helmet mount and gave it a quick test and initial reaction is the tint seems perfect. Maybe just slightly warmer than my SS X2 with XML2 4C tint, but I think its hard to compare directly because that's a reflector based light and this uses TIR optics. I'll report back further after my ride.








One thing I immediately noticed, even before taking it out of the plastic bag was a broken off bit from the bar mount. Not surprising seeing how the light was not well protected for shipping in a thin bubble wrap bag.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

After my ride tonight and comparing it to a few other lights I have I would estimate the tint to be something in the 5 range... it is most definitely NOT a 3C.


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## MichaelHa (Jan 29, 2015)

kwarwick said:


> The warmer the tint the more yellow/orange the phosphor of the LED will look.


Got my neutral white Yinding today and it looks identical to your warm white Yinding. 
Very orange - would like to change this Yinding to cool white if possible.


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## Memristor (Dec 18, 2014)

My yinding is still for processing at customs 
Hope it will arrive tomorrow. I will check the tint immediately.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

So someone please recap...what is the consensus..was all the fuss for a warmer tint good or bad?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Less light from warmer, better color index. It depends on personal preference. Mine is a 3C/4C tint over warmer tints.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

USPS seems to have lost my NW Yinding somewhere on the way from the last sorting center 10199 to my local PO 10009 a mile away. Been almost a week with no updates. (Was sent Registered Mail. Normally parcels processed through 10199 arrive at local PO and are out for dellivery same morning.) Local PO not helpful, very patronizingly points out to me that item is In Transit. Any advice on how to file a claim or whatever?

On the bright side, the NW MJ-880 clone and battery cases ordered from Kaidomain reportedly arrived safely at the local PO and are scheduled for delivery yesterday. Oh, wait...:madman:


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

TiGeo said:


> So someone pleas recap...what is the consensus..was all the fuss for a warmer tint good or bad?


It depends on what you prefer. For me, it's definitely bad: the light output is already not that impressive nowadays (if compared with multi-LED lights), and I definitely don't want to go even lower at the price of supposedly better color rendering.

When riding, I need to see the trail and obstacles, not evaluate their true colors.


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## MichaelHa (Jan 29, 2015)

-Archie- said:


> It depends on what you prefer. For me, it's definitely bad: the light output is already not that impressive nowadays (if compared with multi-LED lights), and I definitely don't want to go even lower at the price of supposedly better color rendering.
> 
> When riding, I need to see the trail and obstacles, not evaluate their true colors.


Hi Archie, 
I agree. Cool white would be better for me or at least a not so warm/brown tint


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## MichaelHa (Jan 29, 2015)

Here are two pictures of my Yinding Neutral White. Both are smartphone pictures, sorry for the bad quality.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Hope USPS gets these delivered soon (keeping Juno in mind). Please specify if what you got is similar in tint to neutral daylight or warm leds/halogens in your house if you cant compare to a specific tint of led. Thanks.

Solarstorm seems to have gotten the neutral tint right, can we find out what they used?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

andychrist said:


> USPS seems to have lost my NW Yinding somewhere on the way from the last sorting center 10199 to my local PO 10009 a mile away. Been almost a week with no updates. (Was sent Registered Mail. Normally parcels processed through 10199 arrive at local PO and are out for dellivery same morning.) Local PO not helpful, very patronizingly points out to me that item is In Transit. Any advice on how to file a claim or whatever?
> 
> On the bright side, the NW MJ-880 clone and battery cases ordered from Kaidomain reportedly arrived safely at the local PO and are scheduled for delivery yesterday. Oh, wait...:madman:


If it says "Processed Through Sort Facility ISC New York" that's normal for it to sit there a week or more unfortunately.


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## jja (Jan 14, 2004)

*Interior pictures*

Here's some pics of the insides (well, the backs of the emitter boards). The interior fixing bolts were a little over torqued and somewhat stripped on the first one.

















The domes look a little more orange than a Cree XM-L T6-3B neutral white which looks a little more yellow than the Yindings. You probably can't tell from this picture but it's the best I could do:









I'm charging batteries now and will try to get that Cree in a flashlight over the weekend. But I can't set exposure on my cheap camera so I'm not sure beamshots would mean much.

In any case, thanks GJHS!


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## MichaelHa (Jan 29, 2015)

here is a comparison with my other light. My smart phone is not capable to reflect natural colours, the Yinding looks more brown in reality:














The brown spot is the Yinding, the other one is a lamp with 2x CREE XM-L U2. Lamps have been switched during the shots.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

^^^Is this the new Yinding with the new warmer tint?


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## MichaelHa (Jan 29, 2015)

Yes, ordered as neutral white, should be XM-L2 T6 C3


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS said:


> If it says "Processed Through Sort Facility ISC New York" that's normal for it to sit there a week or more unfortunately.


But it left ISC nine days ago and since then has made its way through two other local sort facilities. The last one it left a week ago was just a mile away from my PO (10009) and it should have gotten to me the same day, as has every other parcel ever sent to me via that route. Unfortunately the first NW Yindling was only offered from GB with a choice of tracking for $1.99 extra; the SS X3 they offered with insurance for a small extra sum so I took that. Too late for the Yinding.

View attachment 959737


Not much I can do, as it is the sender who has paid for the shipping who has to resolve any dispute with USPS. Looks like employees at the local PO are wise to the fact that goods sent from China are unlikely to be closely monitored by the vendor because they also just disappeared my order from Kaidomain.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

MichaelHa said:


> Yes, ordered as neutral white, should be XM-L2 T6 C3


Gotcha..a lot different that the XM-L2 T6 3B I have...more yellow/brown looking.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Hey Guys,

Just to reconfirm: the manufacturer is aware of the mistake in the tint and GearBest will fix it. They are waiting to see how many have the wrong tint and then they will post how they will fix it. Speaking with May, I'm confident everyone will be happy. Batch two is on shipping hold until they confirm its right.

You can post that you received the wrong tint if you want or when ready I will post how to get the solution. I only ask that people refrain from flaming, stirring the pot or "told you so" posts. This isn't GearBest, the manufacturer admitted fault. If you have questions email May or PM me so I can bring your concerns to GB.


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## MichaelHa (Jan 29, 2015)

GJHS said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Just to reconfirm: the manufacturer is aware of the mistake in the tint and GearBest will fix it. They are waiting to see how many have the wrong tint and then they will post how they will fix it. Speaking with May, I'm confident everyone will be happy. Batch two is on shipping hold until they confirm its right.
> 
> You can post that you received the wrong tint if you want or when ready I will post how to get the solution. I only ask that people refrain from flaming, stirring the pot or "told you so" posts. This isn't GearBest, the manufacturer admitted fault. If you have questions email May or PM me so I can bring your concerns to GB.


Thanks GJHS!


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

thanks thats great GJHS! I hope the 3C tint is worth it


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Much appreciated, CJHS! I think this is an understandable mistake, but I'm glad to hear the manufacturer will step up and will make it right.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

Thanks GJHS!

This is great fun all the way. It would have been fun to do a documentary about this. Traveling around the world interviewing all you guys. Trying to catch the eagerness and frustration. And also go to china to find Dora at Gearbest and at last the Yinding factory.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Appel said:


> Thanks GJHS!
> 
> This is great fun all the way. It would have been fun to do a documentary about this. Traveling around the world interviewing all you guys. Trying to catch the eagerness and frustration. And also go to china to find Dora at Gearbest and at last the Yinding factory.


Somehow I doubt this has been great fun all around for CJHS, but I have to give him my highest accolades for the manner in which he has handled this. :thumbsup:

I hope everyone else who took part in this group buy will consider giving him positive feedback, if they haven't already, for all his hard work and professionalism dealing with these challenges.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

MichaelHa said:


> here is a comparison with my other light. My smart phone is not capable to reflect natural colours, the Yinding looks more brown in reality:
> 
> The brown spot is the Yinding, the other one is a lamp with 2x CREE XM-L U2. Lamps have been switched during the shots.


On my iPad your Yinding looks nice and neutral compared with your cool white XM-L2 U2, which has a noticeably blue halo. Would be interesting to see how the two spots combine when aimed at the same point, Michael. Hint hint.



GJHS said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Just to reconfirm: the manufacturer is aware of the mistake in the tint and GearBest will fix it...
> 
> This isn't GearBest, the manufacturer admitted fault.


Or it could be a distribution thing from Cree. Do they even label their emitters with the individual BINs?


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

andychrist said:


> Or it could be a distribution thing from Cree. Do they even label their emitters with the individual BINs?


Cree doesn't mark the bin anywhere on the LED itself. This is definitely one of the challenges we face when it comes to identifying the bin of a particular emitter as we pretty much have to take the supplier at their word that the bin is what they say it is.

I believe the only place you'll see the bin officially identified by Cree is when you buy a whole reel of bare emitters. Some suppliers will show a photo of this label to help customers feel comfortable about the accuracy of the bin.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

andychrist said:


> Or it could be a distribution thing from Cree. Do they even label their emitters with the individual BINs?


I believe so, as seen from this reputable Chinese seller's link.

Now it could be that the Yinding manufacturer got them from a "distributer" who did not provide the label, lied, or re-used the label.

EDIT - *kwarwick* beat me to it. And the label from the reel is what I meant, not any identification on the emitter itself.

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

andychrist said:


> But it left ISC nine days ago and since then has made its way through two other local sort facilities. The last one it left a week ago was just a mile away from my PO (10009) and it should have gotten to me the same day, as has every other parcel ever sent to me via that route. Unfortunately the first NW Yindling was only offered from GB with a choice of tracking for $1.99 extra; the SS X3 they offered with insurance for a small extra sum so I took that. Too late for the Yinding.
> 
> View attachment 959737
> 
> ...


Mine went from ISC to Massachusetts back to NY. Have you called call USPS? What did they say?


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS said:


> Mine went from ISC to Massachusetts back to NY. Have you called call USPS? What did they say?


Where are you, close to either the MA or NY border?

It's impossible to speak with anyone by phone at USPS, the employee at the PO told me to email them. As if that will do any good.

Eh, win some, lose some.


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## MichaelHa (Jan 29, 2015)

andychrist said:


> On my iPad your Yinding looks nice and neutral compared with your cool white XM-L2 U2, which has a noticeably blue halo. Would be interesting to see how the two spots combine when aimed at the same point, Michael. Hint hint.


This is unfortunately caused by the camera. The spot looks more brown, similar to the indoor shots. I can check how the spots look like when aimed at the same point, but not this week. Earliest Monday - I hope so.

I plan to use the Yinding on the helmet and the XM-L2 U2 (which is poorly manufactured compared to the Yinding) on the handlebar. Everything besides the tint is fine, the parts that came along with the lamp, the quality and the weight. Didn't have a look inside - I have the talent to brake items when opening them.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

andychrist said:


> Where are you, close to either the MA or NY border?
> 
> It's impossible to speak with anyone by phone at USPS, the employee at the PO told me to email them. As if that will do any good.
> 
> Eh, win some, lose some.


I live close to you in NYC. I called the USPS Domestic & International USPS Tracking customer service number 1-800-222-1811. I went through the prompts to get to a CS agent.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS said:


> I live close to you in NYC. I called the USPS Domestic & International USPS Tracking customer service number 1-800-222-1811. I went through the prompts to get to a CS agent.


Cool, [how] did they resolve the issue?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

andychrist said:


> Cool, [how] did they resolve the issue?


They gave me accurate info and then told me if it didn't show up by next week, they would put a trace


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS said:


> They gave me accurate info and then told me if it didn't show up by next week, they would put a trace


Seems something very strange is going on then. Because even when I order through Amazon with their free Standard Shipping, estimated at five to seven business days, goods are always delivered to me the same day as they get through the local sort center. E.g., an item purchased 23rd December arrived the next day. So if both of us in the same vicinity have not received our respective parcels after all this time, USPS must be in the midst of another local meltdown.

Hope you get yours soon. Umm, I meant that in a good way.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

your beamshots always looked familiar GJ  I just wasnt sure, are your beamshots of cunningham/stillwell?

anyways my yindings have been jumping around sorting facilities for 4 days and I live minutes from customs (i paid for tracking). We just have to be patient until usps gets things together.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

A meltdown describes the situation well andy. Or a service freeze might be more appropriate.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

andychrist said:


> Seems something very strange is going on then. Because even when I order through Amazon with their free Standard Shipping, estimated at five to seven business days, goods are always delivered to me the same day as they get through the local sort center. E.g., an item purchased 23rd December arrived the next day. So if both of us in the same vicinity have not received our respective parcels after all this time, USPS must be in the midst of another local meltdown.
> 
> Hope you get yours soon. Umm, I meant that in a good way.


I did eventually get mine a week later. I was speKing of a previous experience.

Your comment reminded me of the hilarious "Make 7 up yours" commercials


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

GJHS said:


> I live close to you in NYC. I called the USPS Domestic & International USPS Tracking customer service number 1-800-222-1811. I went through the prompts to get to a CS agent.





jokaankit said:


> your beamshots always looked familiar GJ  I just wasnt sure, are your beamshots of cunningham/stillwell?
> 
> anyways my yindings have been jumping around sorting facilities for 4 days and I live minutes from customs (i paid for tracking). We just have to be patient until usps gets things together.


About an hour east of you guys out in the hamptons, always night ride hither hills in montauk and nearby. Lmk if you ever feel like trekking out this way...I'd love to set something up


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

jokaankit said:


> your beamshots always looked familiar GJ  I just wasnt sure, are your beamshots of cunningham?


Stillwell, right off the soccer fields. I always do the loop from the fields. I used to start from Jericho and ride under the RR tracks. its a great trail, with some good Singletrack and a ton of roots.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

manbeer said:


> About an hour east of you guys out in the hamptons, always night ride hither hills in montauk and nearby. Lmk if you ever feel like trekking out this way...I'd love to set something up


Count me in this summer, I've heard there are some good trails out there. I have always wanted to ride Rocky Point as well, heard it was great.

Have you guys ever ridden Mohonk/Minnewaska, upstate? Not very technical, just 20 miles of scenic carriage roads.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

I haven't been up there to ride but I am familiar with the area. Would love to ride it once it warms up a bit. Rocky point is great, I tend to go out east more since I find that the majority of my riding happens at night and (I could be mistaken) but a lot of the trails around there were supposed to be prohibited for night use


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Trip #2 to the Gunks. I would be happy to show you Castle Point, a very nice 20 mile loop with some great views and lakes along the way. Maybe even some Rock climbing. :thumbsup:


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Wow, last time my family summered in Rocky Point was in the early 70s. Development was just setting in so doubt I'd recognize the place anymore.

My contractor lives in Wappingers. But my own properties are further north, near Hudson (just opposite the Catskills.) Haven't had the time yet to mosey west over the rail bridge there at Poughkeepsie, always just ride right up to my campsite. Guess if any of my new lights and battery holders ever arrive I'll be able to loop over the Hudson without having to worry about making it in before dark, that would be a treat.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

I live by stillwell and ride 25 to stillwell regularly. Im sure ill see you on the trail when I get my lights


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Here is my Yinding XML-2 T6 3B vs. my Gemini Duo XML-2 U2 1A (assumed).

3B









1A


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## upstateSC-rider (Dec 25, 2003)

You guys are bringing back memories...Stillwell, Rocky Point, Cathedral Pines, Calverton, Manorville...Good stuff. 
Although I live/ride down South now, whenever I go back to visit I ride with my brother on the trails or road, usually a couple of times per year.

Back on topic though, I received my 2 lights today and yes, a little warm.
I have full faith in GJ's remedy so no worries here.
And thanks again for doing this. :thumbsup:


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Sounds good, I'd like to get some nice rides set up in the NY area, it's been a long time since I've done any real riding that wasn't solo. We're under about 2 feet of snow out here still. Dying to get out on the trails again...until then I'll be living vicariously through this forum


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I can barely see a difference between two. Maybe it is just the camera.



TiGeo said:


> Here is my Yinding XML-2 T6 3B vs. my Gemini Duo XML-2 U2 1A (assumed).


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

kwarwick said:


> Somehow I doubt this has been great fun all around for CJHS, but I have to give him my highest accolades for the manner in which he has handled this. :thumbsup:
> 
> I hope everyone else who took part in this group buy will consider giving him positive feedback, if they haven't already, for all his hard work and professionalism dealing with these challenges.


Absolutely! *CJHS*, thanks again!


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

bhocewar said:


> You are saying you have 3 neutral 3C Yindings bought at GearBest and they all look like left beam? Weird, but that one actually looks like 3C.
> ?


White balance setting was 'auto' in my DSRL. Halogen is a lot warmer making yinding look neutral with this auto WB setting.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS said:


> USPS Domestic & International USPS Tracking customer service number 1-800-222-1811.


Nope, CS is still "unavailable at this time." 



jokaankit said:


> A meltdown describes the situation well andy. Or a service freeze might be more appropriate.


Yeah it's hard to tell which. Tracking updates have ceased, looks like no mail has been delivered here this week either. Wonder what kinda game USPS is playing this time.

Has anyone who ordered the NW KD MJ-880 clone received theirs yet and can compare it to the NW Yinding? The suspense is killing me.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

*Delivered!*

Well with no notice from the PO that either parcel was out for delivery, just received both NW Yinding and NW KD MJ-880 clone.

OMFG that Yinding is TINY, smaller than either of my single emitter light heads. And it is ABSOLUTELY FRIGGIN PERFECT, not a bit of dust under the lenses, smudges, scratches, or looseness. Color is very very Neutral, not yellow/orange at all. Looks almost Cool White beside a 60W incandescent bulb, but no bluish tinge like on my other cheapo light heads. Smooove beam, insanely bright and gets hot real fast on High. Slow dimming function between modes makes it hard to find Off, will have to get used to that.

KD light also very Neutral, but beam looks a bit different (ringy) at close range because of reflectors versus optics. Green glow-in-the-dark O-rings around them probably not doing any favors either. Bigger and heavier than the Yinding but suspect KD's beafy body with its pronounced cooling fins will yeild better thermal management. Haven't taken it apart; pictures on Kaidomain for the Black model are accurate in that the screws on the front plate have triangular recesses. Am sure local Ace has the right equipment but will hold off opening it unless or until there is any problem. Thing sure is cute, pictures on the net don't do it justice. Ordered mine in Silver (KD uploaded that model to their website specifically at my request!) and it has a beautiful, subtle sparkle (coincidentally exactly the same finish as the plate of the Logitech Easy-Switch Keyboard on which I'm typing this, weird.) Dual button system divided between ON/Off and Mode makes it much more easy to operate than any of my other lights. Hidden Strobe and Mode Memory make this a winner. Heft is such that it will live on the bars of my commuter, which it matches in color as well.

Battery cases from KD probably same as SolarStorms from GB. Am juicing up four of the 3400mAh Pannies received from FastTech inside one of them right now with my MagicShine 1.8A charger. Indicator read two dots at start and there was plenty enough volts to test out both Yinding and KD right out of the box. Got a SS Y connector as well so will be able to run my MJ-818 tail light from the same battery box if the fancy suits me. Hmm, only one set of silicone mounting O-rings here, guessing it was the Yinding that came without but not sure. Did just find a "Nano Sim Adapter for iphone4/4S/5" lying under everything so will accept that as a consolation prize. :skep:

Will try to post beam shots once it's dark.

Thanks again GJHS!!! :thumbsup:


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Okay seems my iPad takes really lousy beam shots, at least viewing the pics on its own screen makes them appear in much cooler tones that what I perceived. But again, neither of the 2X Cree NW XM-L2 light heads exhibited the least cast of yellow or orange/brown, and certainly no tint of blue either. KD clone might show some green in the outer ring, it's obviously picking that up from the interior glow-in-the-dark O-rings.

Neutral White Yinding








Neutral White KD MJ-880 Clone








Thumbnail below: Cool White Single Emitter eBay Speshul w/Double Diffusing Lenses


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

andy does it mention phone not included on the package? You could be having a lucky day 

My mail man is taking one of those unofficial vacation days it seems.

Your lights seem to be the right tint congrats!


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Surprisingly got my package today. Tint looks warm but cooler than halogens. What upsets me is they sent me a European/Asian charger  I'll wait to see if I can find an adapter before I contact May.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

OK guys, I've made tint white wall hunting from the lights I've got lately and we all want to know. I've made three different white balance settings. First is the Auto White Balancing, the second is Shadow and third is Cloudy.

Lights are as follows:
-top row Cool white: KD2, Yinding
-low row Neutral: KD2 NW, KD880 NW, Yinding NW (?)

AWB








Shadow








Cloudy









AWB is to cold, Shadow is most realistic. KD2 CW in reality isn't bluish if you look it alone.

*Conclusion*: the latest NW Yinding has *way to warm tint to be 3C*. Haven't tried it outside yet since we have a snow here. Both KD ones are really 3C which has been confirmed by Kaidomain. The minor difference is probably because of the optics (TIR lenses vs. reflectors) and/or differences within it's class.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

For all those who have experience with China shipping issues, what's the best course of action to sort them out?
According to the picture and info from GearBest, my lights shipped 5 weeks ago yesterday. the NL post tracking is still invalid, and obviously, I don't have them in-hand.

Keep waiting, raise a fuss, or write it off to 'bad luck and be thankful it was only a $30 thing?'


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

For me 4 weeks is an average, but it can be 6 or more. I would say wait just few days more but report it to the seller now. If you payed by Paypal then you should open the case on day 44 from the purchase. Then you have another 20 days to item shows up or the seller solves the problem. Towards the end of that period you can raise the case to the claim and get refund.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

ARandomBiker said:


> NL post tracking is still invalid,


What do you mean exactly, is that result just from the GearBest site? What happens if you copy and paste the tracking number into Google, still not found?


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Yeah, putting the RSXXXXXXXXXNL number directly into the NL post website says it has no record of the parcel anywhere in the system.

Same for entering that number into the USPS website.

I'll take Ledomans advice and wait a few more weeks. See if it shows up.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

ARandomBiker said:


> According to the picture and info from GearBest, my lights shipped 5 weeks ago yesterday. the NL post tracking is still invalid, and obviously, I don't have them in-hand.


If you paid extra for a tracking number, you should be able to use ALL-IN-ONE PACKAGE TRACKING to track. Gearbest shipping can be quite slow, especially for orders with products containing Li-ion batteries.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

G


ledoman said:


> *Conclusion*: the latest NW Yinding has *way to warm tint to be 3C*...Both KD ones are really 3C which has been confirmed by Kaidomain. The minor difference is probably because of the optics (TIR lenses vs. reflectors) and/or differences within it's class.


Weird how different both my NW Yinding and KD 880 clone photograph compared yours. I'd say in real life my NW KD looks closest to your Shadow CW Yinding, and my NW Yinding is somewhere between your Shadow CW Yinding and NW KD2. Neither of my NWs appear anywhere near as warm/sepia to me as any of yours, at least not here on my iPad with its stark white LED screen. My KD 880 clone is certainly colder and more fluorescent looking than my Yinding, though even the latter I wouldn't call warm - "soft" may be a better discription (both beam pattern and tint).

Be interesting to see how they are on the trail, if ever we get a thaw.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Andy, I have Panasonic FZ200 which is the one of the best bridge camera out there and I'm pretty shure it do it quite well. Don't know how you have taken your pictures, how white balancing was set and did you take them separately. If you took them sepately with AWB, then camera might trying to normalize it somehow to the white. You should take them together without Automatic White Balance. Choose WB that gives you the closest to what you see. And your eyes sees it different when together. Also we are not all seeing colors on the same way. As you know some are not seing them at all. 
Yet another thing: screens renders color differently, not all are the same, so we might see the same picture differently.

EDIT - wrote it wrong: If your NW Yinding is looking cooler than NW KD880 then you are probably lucky and you've got one from a few manufacturer says they should be in this batch.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

ARandomBiker said:


> Yeah, putting the RSXXXXXXXXXNL number directly into the NL post website says it has no record of the parcel anywhere in the system.
> 
> Same for entering that number into the USPS website.
> 
> I'll take Ledomans advice and wait a few more weeks. See if it shows up.


I haven't said to wait few more weeks. I said to *wait few days*.
And yes, try also to track with ALL-IN-ONE PACKAGE TRACKING


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

ARandomBiker said:


> Yeah, putting the RSXXXXXXXXXNL number directly into the NL post website says it has no record of the parcel anywhere in the system.
> 
> Same for entering that number into the USPS website.
> 
> I'll take Ledomans advice and wait a few more weeks. See if it shows up.


Write May just to be safe. The NLPost has two parts Internationl and Parcels. If you track it under parcels it won't show. As others have said, try ALL-IN-ONE PACKAGE TRACKING


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

hey ledoman, mine looks like the kd880 NW shadow tint. Looks very similar to my warm daytime cfl's and cooler than my warm LED's. I see even amounts of white, yellow, and brown. Not the overwhelming brown that some have posted.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

the tint of my yinding looks closest to gary's side by side


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

ledoman said:


> Andy, I have Panasonic FZ200 which is the one of the best bridge camera out there and I'm pretty shure it do it quite well. Don't know how you have taken your pictures, how white balancing was set and did you take them separately. If you took them sepately with AWB, then camera might trying to normalize it somehow to the white. You should take them together without Automatic White Balance. Choose WB that gives you the closest to what you see. And your eyes sees it different when together. Also we are not all seeing colors on the same way. As you know some are not seing them at all.
> Yet another thing: screens renders color differently, not all are the same, so we might see the same picture differently.
> 
> EDIT - wrote it wrong: If your NW Yinding is looking cooler than NW KD880 then you are probably lucky and you've got one from a few manufacturer says they should be in this batch.


Yes ledoman, seems I have been lucky to receive a good Yinding 3C! Also what I think might have happened, because I requested from Kaidomain one of thier new Neutral White 880 clones in Silver rather than the Black they were offering, they probably just sent me a Silver from their regular White XM-L2 U2 light heads and figured I wouln't notice the difference. And if I hadn't had the correct Yinding to compare it to I really wouldn't have known theirs wasn't 3C, because while a bit harsh it lacks the bluish tint of my 2014 MagicShine's XM-L2. So guess the latest White BIN they are using now is truly whiter than the Cool Whites previously shipping. I'm happy enough with it and would feel comfortable ordering any other of their White XM-L2 lamps, even though I do prefer the 3C. And I am _very_ picky about tints. That said, will be ordering one of the Black KD 880 clones on the assumption that I'll receive a genuine NW like yours. 

Can't easily control WB on my iPad, just installed latest update and there are new features to Camera over which I seem to have no control, grrr. But will try to capture both KD and YD in the same shot so the difference will be clearer...

Okay they don't look as rose and slate to me in real life but obviously they're not both the same 3C! (Sorry about the awkward angle, my NYC apartment is a bit cramped and I had to hold the stupid iPad while seated on my bike in the entrance hall with the lamps aimed up at the ceiling. NOT DRUNK!)

NW Yinding on the left, "NW"[?] KD 880 clone right.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

I suppose that there are many of us who have ordered NW Yindings that still have not got shipment notice from GB? Is the second batch on hold?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Read post #920


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Andy, that's much better explanation and the picture shows the difference previously unseen. Still your camera, well, it's not THE camera ;-) To bad you can't adjust WB. And you probably shouldn't use term NW with your 880 clone since it's very likely cool white.
Maybe if you take the pictures of leds side by side so the amount (yellow tint) of the phosphor layer could be seen and compare it with pictures on the previous pages. Lemon yellow should indicate cool white tint.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

ledoman said:


> Andy, that's much better explanation and the picture shows the difference previously unseen. Still your camera, well, it's not THE camera ;-) To bad you can't adjust WB. And you probably shouldn't use term NW with your 880 clone since it's very likely cool white.
> Maybe if you take the pictures of leds side by side so the amount (yellow tint) of the phosphor layer could be seen and compare it with pictures on the previous pages. Lemon yellow should indicate cool white tint.


You're right again, ledoman: As I'm not 100% sure the Silver KD 880 clone I received is really Neutral White, have edited my previous post to reflect that. But a little more detective work leads me to believe the KD might actually be a NW of some sort. Because it did arrive with those triangular set screws front, which only Kaidomain's new Neutral White line of 880 clones seem to feature - their earlier White XM-L2 U2s and XM-L T6 models in both Black and Silver lamp bodies are all shown with Philips head screws. (Picture of NW in Silver on KD website is completely wrong, shows old XM-L version.) And from what I can make out, the phosphor on my "NW" KD clone is _very_ close to Lemon Yellow but not _quite_; there is neither any hint of green as with Cree's Cool White emitters, nor the least smattering of orange that the Yinding shows. So maybe I got a "Cooltral" White MJ-880 clone from KD - What does the emitter on _your_ 880 clone look like, ledoman?

Top: "NW" KD MJ-880 clone (2X Cree XM-L2 U2 Orange Peel Reflector)
Middle: Cool White Single XM-L[?] SMO Reflector
Bottom: NW Yinding (2X Cree XM-L2 3C TIG Optics)








Sorry again for the cockeyed pic, had to work fast because without any air circulation, the Yinding overheats on High right away and steps down. All the lamps display terrible banding when shot on Low, PWM is that slow.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Andy, now when you have add realy cool one to the picture your "camera" has adjusted white balance again. From this picture (taking into account reability of your camera) I would say your KD880 is probably realy NW 3C and Yinding is the same we got. Compare your pictures how Yinding tint evolved from all white for single led to sephia with 3 leds picture.

Will try to open lights this evening and make a pictures of bare leds. They should look somewhat different. The differences would not be so noticeably as on the white wall, though.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah Ledoman, my iPad's "Camera" has a mind of its own when it comes to white balance. Still tints in the pics appear greatly exaggerated in comparison to my own perceptions. Also it is important to understand that because of the awkwardness of the shot, the Yinding's spot at the far end fell at more accute an angle to the iPad's lens and so got foreshortened, which concentrated its color (you can see the elipse.) OTOH the KD spot was captured almost head on (that's why it's a good circle.) Sorry again but I just don't have enough room or the right equipment here to record a perfectly accurate representation. 

But while unable adjust the WB, I was able to reduce the color saturation post hoc to more closely match my recollection in this edited version. You may take it with a grain of salt or a bottle of vodka, your call:









Top: CW XML (Ever-So-Slightly Greenish Yellow Phosphor)
Bottom Left: NW XM-L2 Yinding, Yellow-Orange Phosphor
Bottom Right: NW[?] XM-L2 U2 KD MJ-880 Clone, Pure Yellow Phosphor







Bit tricky arranging the shot to show off all phosphors simultaneously but you get the idea.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

andychrist said:


> Top: CW XML (Ever-So-Slightly Greenish Yellow Phosphor)
> Bottom Left: NW XM-L2 Yinding, Yellow-Orange Phosphor
> Bottom Right: NW[?] XM-L2 U2 KD MJ-880 Clone, Pure Yellow Phosphor
> View attachment 960580
> ...


Ok. This last picture proves it you have the same questinable NW Yinding as I do and the NW KD880 is really about 3C NW. Showing this at beggining would save us some conversaion. 
I'm working to post mine (not so good) pictures. I think I've made it wrong using some cool white led for ilumination. That's why my colors are not real. Anyway some difference can be seen.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Wonder if there is something other than just the color of the phosphor which is giving everyone else such amber tones. Because pretty sure it is only the WB of my iPad when correcting for the overwhelming blue of the CW XML that makes the Yinding's spot seem so rosey within the same frame. Alone the YD really doesn't seem to have much if any color, it's just very soft. The compact fluorescents in my apartment look much more yellow/orange in comparison, even the DayLight ones.

Yeah ledoman you need to shoot your phosphores under natural light: they all look a bit greenish now, even the Yinding which as you say is more orange than the rest. How many light heads you got there? They are dancing around so fast I can't tell them apart, am getting dizzy. :crazy:

P.S. Had to wait for the sun to come out before shooting, that's why I couldn't post my phosphors any earlier. Sorry.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Appel said:


> I suppose that there are many of us who have ordered NW Yindings that still have not got shipment notice from GB? Is the second batch on hold?


Yes, I asked May to hold them to avoid issue and to make sure they are 3C. I will confirm things tonight again and sorry for the delay. If people prefer they be sent, post it. I will try to confirm so they're sent before Chinese New Year


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Andy, the pictures are of the same lights in the same order as on the previous page - the white wall beams. I should change this animating gif with different ilumination, but I'm not in the mood to do it again. Yours and some pictures on the previous pages shows it good enough.

The main point we proved so far:

*The first batch of NW Yinding has to warm tint, definitively NOT 3C.*

Probably it has tint somewhere around 5. The manufacturer should already know the exact tint by now.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

yea and its seems no one has recieved the correct 3C tint from the first yinding batch. Everyone who's posted has the 5C ish tint?

Is there a picture of the correct tint?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

The whole thread has been interesting. Let me see if I can summarize all 40 pages:

We can get the original Yinding with XML2. It's well made.
Can we get it with the 10-level brightness? No.
Can we get Neutral White? Yes. Deal for coupon "Yinding"
Can we get a Solarstorm box in a deal- yes.
Can we get a deal from GB on charger and batteries - yes.
Can we put in narrower/wider optics- yes.
Does the KD Neutral White LED board fit- no. Too bad, it has the right tint.
Does the KD driver fit?- Maybe.
( I haven't gotten my light yet, but this is what I am hearing)
My light hasn't shown up yet.
The tracking isn't working.
My Cool White showed up, and it's tiny and strong.
Needed a bit of better assembly for waterproofing,
My Neutral white showed up. It's not neutral, it's way too warm.
My Neutral showed up and it's not bad. Maybe a different batch?
GB may be able to remedy the brownish tinted "neutral" lights.

That's where we're at now, right?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

jokaankit said:


> yea and its seems no one has recieved the correct 3C tint from the first yinding batch. Everyone who's posted has the 5C ish tint?
> Is there a picture of the correct tint?


I wrote it several times. You can see it associated with "KD2" and "KD880" on the previous page. Obviously you don't read very carefuly.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

I will get back to you when I try it on the trail. Your pictures look very different from my own experience and what I'm percieving from other's posts. For example your shadow picture is telling me I have close to 3C while garry's picture is showing I have 5B warm tint.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Which Garry's pictures? Can't comment until I know how it was done. And you should do some reading with my post where I've explained they are not 100% accurate and it should be even warmer (all the tints should move away from blueish). None of other souces told how they have set their white balance. As you can see on previous page with Andy's posts this can be very tricky. Not to tell the differencies screens are producing. It's not so simple.

It is hard to catch with camera exactly what your adaptive eyes are seeing. If you look solely one light, your eyes would adapt to that tint. I you look them all together, you'll get much different perception. Try it out yourself adding one by one.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

With my photos I had my white balance set to "incandescent" which was the setting that gave me results as close to what I saw with my bare eye as I could get (and I tried each white balance setting). My pics look realistic to what I SAW on MY monitor (that's all the guarantee I can give). They at least ended up darn close to "true". 

I also stated in my post that I had discovered my previously used white balance setting was in fact causing my previous beamshots to appear cooler (like in my GearBest 3X review).

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Maybe it would be best to ask, rather than determine what is exactly 3C, who is happy with their Yinding 3C tint?


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

GJHS said:


> Maybe it would be best to ask, rather than determine what is exactly 3C, who is happy with their Yinding 3C tint?


Not happy with mine... just a little too warm to use in conjunction with my other neutral white lights.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

kwarwick said:


> Not happy with mine... just a little too warm to use in conjunction with my other neutral white lights.


No who IS happy? Most are not, I'm trying to determine if there are people who are, since the manufacturer thinks that not all lights from the batch are too warm.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS said:


> No who IS happy? Most are not, I'm trying to determine if there are people who are, since the manufacturer thinks that not all lights from the batch are too warm.


As stated earlier, I am deliriously happy with my NW Yinding. Don't see anything wrong with the tint at all. The iPad I used to take beam shots, unfortunately, seems to have a WB preset to "hallucinogenic" rather than "incandescent" so am afraid the results I posted here might look a bit misleading. If every light head in the catalog were available in the same XM-L2 bin as the one I received from GearBest I'd buy them all.

Thanks again GJHS! And to Dora and now May as well.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

As I posted in my tint comparison post, I'm very happy that the tint in mine came close to my favorite 5B1! 

-Garry


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## pucelano (Oct 17, 2009)

I'm very happy with mine too. No complaints about the tint.


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

I ordered on Jan. 5th. Got a shipping notice with a picture of a package with my address on it in Jan. 10th.

It's now Feb. 1st and I still have not received it. 

Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

I expected it by now, but most FastTech purchaes in the past took about 3 weeks (business weeks), so I won't be worried for another week.


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## pacmanfan (Jan 8, 2015)

Got my NW kit a few days ago. The box is nicer than I expected. *The charger I received has Euro plugs!* I don't have any other 8.4v pack charger, so I can't actually test my light until my recently-ordered plug adapters arrive


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

pacmanfan said:


> Got my NW kit a few days ago. The box is nicer than I expected. *The charger I received has Euro plugs!* I don't have any other 8.4v pack charger, so I can't actually test my light until my recently-ordered plug adapters arrive


A few, including me, have received the wrong plug. I will check into that tonight.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I just checked with May, they're testing the 3Cs and I will have an update soon. They are also checking the Eur plugs. If you haven't received your 3C Yinding yet, be patient, it is coming soon. They just want to make sure it's right and really 3C.

BTW Right now they're having a 1st Anniversary sale on the whole site MASSIVE 1st ANNIVERSARY SALE gearbest.com - gearbest.com


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

GJHS, can May check with manufacturer which tint we have actualy got in this batch? It would be nice to know for future reference.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Could be 5C. 3 and 5 are mixed often.


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## wetpaint (Sep 7, 2009)

I've been happy with the lighthead, the supplied battery doesn't seem very good though. On high, I get anywhere from 50-80 minutes before the indicator turns red depending on the temperature. My clone of the Yindling gets 2 hours with both leds on high.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

I tested it with a fan and large metal heat sink high lasted 1 hour 40 min and red flashing dimmed mode lasted another 1 hour 20 minutes. Hope that helps.


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## Memristor (Dec 18, 2014)

I picked up my yinding today at customs. It is my first "high performance" led bike light.
The light itself is very impressive, so small :O
But on my first impression the tint seems also very warm. I will test it more accurate tomorrow evening. 

GJHS: Will you submit all "complaints" collected at Gearbest or should I contact May right away if my tint is really too warm?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

The warm tint is known and a fix is coming. They are testing batch 2 now. Read the last pages of this thread for all the info.

I'm happy that the quality is there with all the lights so far, just not sure how they mixed up the tint. Sorry Guys, with 4 custom lights being built at the same time, mistakes will happen. I will post the fix as soon as I know it.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS, you mentioned earlier that color NW Yindings would be available to those whose orders had not yet shipped. I already received my YD and would like to order another in blue during this "MASSIVE 1st ANNIVERSARY SALE." Don't see such an option anywhere on GearBest yet, do you know whether it is strictly applicable to those who had purchased pre-sale and whose orders are currently on hold?

Thanks so much!


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## Iker2 (Jan 27, 2015)

andychrist said:


> GJHS, you mentioned earlier that color NW Yindings would be available to those whose orders had not yet shipped. I already received my YD and would like to order another in blue during this "MASSIVE 1st ANNIVERSARY SALE." Don't see such an option anywhere on GearBest yet, do you know whether it is strictly applicable to those who had purchased pre-sale and whose orders are currently on hold?
> 
> Thanks so much!


+1, I did not participate in the preorders but I would like to order one NW, I am withholding for now because I am afraid that the deals currently available might be remnants or returns of the batch with the "too-warm" problem. In addition, a color version would be nice. So.... is it safe (tint-wise) to order the anniversary sale units at $25? and when are the color units with right NW tint expected?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I put it out there so that Dora would order them and only receieved one response. I will put it out there one more time: is there anyone else who wants a Blue or Red Yinding? Post now and I will see if May can get them and allow you to order/pay now during the sale.


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## Iker2 (Jan 27, 2015)

Yes I would like a red (or blue) NW with right tint. Not too worried about paying during the sale, pricewise it doesn't matter. Just interested on getting the right stuff. Thank you very much GJHS, you are doing a tremendous work on this.!


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

*elusive 3C yinding?*

Finally got around to taking pictures of my NW yinding. It looks warm indoors, and while reflected against snow. It looks great against trees and brush. It does cast a slight yellow tint to skin and more noticeably to foliage. I used an iphone camera with the white balance and lighting set to best represent actual appearance. I think the emitter isn't pure yellow, but certainly has no brown. I sent a picture to May and she thinks it is reasonably close to 3C tint 

Again pictures aren't perfect but very close for a camera phone. Especially when viewed on a computer IMO. I used a mix of daylight cfl, and very cool led flashlight for indoor shot (triangle pattern). I'm sorry about the snow glare those were taken moments before our second snow storm hit. Outdoor shots taken the same place as GJ's beam shots  I'm hoping people experiencing better weather will post some pictures of their lights. Let me know what you think and if you want any other pictures.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I'm glad you're happy with the tint. At least now you know if you ever want to test the SolarStorm X3 and XT40 CW or NW, the Yinding CW or Nitenumen, we can meet there and you can test them. Preferably, of course, when it gets warmer.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Great call on waiting for things to warm up  Actually still need to decide on CW or NW xt40 for the helmet. Would they both work with the neutral yinding. Do you think its worth sacrificing throw output for the neutral tint on our sandy trails?


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## enFuego (Aug 1, 2007)

My newly arrived Neutral White Yinding from Gearbest produced 3800 degrees Kelvin, after running at high for 2 minutes. According to the ANSI White Chart someone posted earlier in this thread, this tint is a 5C-6B, and not the 3C (high 4000's Kelvin) that I was hoping for. This was measured with a Minolta Color Meter 2. Last week, my Cool White Yinding arrived, and it produced 7350 degrees Kelvin, which is about right. The reason I am sharing this info, is because it seemed this forum needed a method of determining the emitter's color tint other than that of digital cameras with undetermined white ballance settings. Thanks GJHS for getting this whole project going for us, and I know you are working with GB on the fix for this.


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## TechniKal (Mar 18, 2004)

Anyone had any luck ordering the regular 'cool white' model recently? It says "Ships in 1-2 Business Days" on the website, but I placed an order a week ago and haven't seen any movement past "processing". Are these held up while they are working out the issues on the neutral white ones?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok guys, I've been working with May to check that batch 2 is truly 3C and by her photos, it appears to be correct. Give me another day to confirm everything and I will report back with how to get your copy. This is a ton of behind the scenes work and I appreciate your patience. I think we can agree this Yinding is worth the trouble.

At this point we are looking at GearBest shipping you the correct LED plate for you to swap. This way you don't have to ship anything and you can keep the warmer tint as an extra. It should be an easy solder job. Please share your input on that plan.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

GJHS said:


> At this point we are looking at GearBest shipping you the correct LED plate for you to swap. This way you don't have to ship anything and you can keep the warmer tint as an extra. It should be an easy solder job. Please share your input on that plan.


Seems like a very reasonable solution. My only comment would be to make sure they find a way to protect the soft domes of the LEDs from getting damaged in transit. My Yinding arrived with a piece broken off the handlebar mount because of it was just shipped in a padded envelope. Any chance they could send a replacement mount along with the LED plate?

Again, thank you for organizing the group buy and dealing with these little problems!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

kwarwick said:


> Seems like a very reasonable solution. My only comment would be to make sure they find a way to protect the soft domes of the LEDs from getting damaged in transit. My Yinding arrived with a piece broken off the handlebar mount because of it was just shipped in a padded envelope. Any chance they could send a replacement mount along with the LED plate?
> 
> Again, thank you for organizing the group buy and dealing with these little problems!


Yes, I'll make sure May gets you a new mount.


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Would like to buy one as well. Do they come in blue, red, etc.

Thx


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

mb323323 said:


> Would like to buy one as well. Do they come in blue, red, etc.
> 
> Thx


I will try and get them tonight. Anything else?


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## jja (Jan 14, 2004)

GJHS said:


> I think we can agree this Yinding is worth the trouble.


Yes, it's a real nice light head.



> It should be an easy solder job. Please share your input on that plan.


Sounds good. It does look easy enough.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

enFuego said:


> This was measured with a Minolta Color Meter 2.


Cool! That is how it should be done.


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## eTrex_FSR (Dec 18, 2009)

Do we actually tell Gearbest that we need new replacement led plates, or will it be shipped to all who ordered first batch or we tell you? I would need 2 for my 2 NW Yindings.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

enFuego said:


> My newly arrived Neutral White Yinding from Gearbest produced 3800 degrees Kelvin, after running at high for 2 minutes. According to the ANSI White Chart someone posted earlier in this thread, this tint is a 5C-6B, and not the 3C (high 4000's Kelvin) that I was hoping for. This was measured with a Minolta Color Meter 2. Last week, my Cool White Yinding arrived, and it produced 7350 degrees Kelvin, which is about right. The reason I am sharing this info, is because it seemed this forum needed a method of determining the emitter's color tint other than that of digital cameras with undetermined white ballance settings. Thanks GJHS for getting this whole project going for us, and I know you are working with GB on the fix for this.


You got me an idea. I can actualy select color temperature on my camera. To determine what K has the light I have to only adjust the camera white balancing until I see it as a plain white on the (white) wall through the camera. No need for sophisticated device until you want it to be very precise.

I've tried it with KD2 and got about 4900K. For KD 880 clone I've got around 4400K. The difference of 500K can be seen on the picture - two lower left ones:








And yes, I've got it around 3900K for the Yinding (lower right on the picture).


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Should sell all the yellow - brown batch to us 90s retro geeks so we can slap them on our fat chances and blast through the trails like it's 1995 again 

On a serious note, if they are almost a dead ringer for halogens I may be interested in a couple for nostalgic value. I spent many hours rocking the old nitesun team bitd


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## enFuego (Aug 1, 2007)

Sending out a new LED plate seems reasonable.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Good solution, in for 2.


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## hankering (Dec 28, 2014)

> Do we actually tell Gearbest that we need new replacement led plates, 
> or will it be shipped to all who ordered first batch 
> or we tell you?

Same question as I also have one of the first round, been waiting to see what happened.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

hankering said:


> > Do we actually tell Gearbest that we need new replacement led plates,
> > or will it be shipped to all who ordered first batch
> > or we tell you?
> 
> Same question as I also have one of the first round, been waiting to see what happened.


Let me confirm tint and I will let you know how.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

jokaankit said:


> Great call on waiting for things to warm up  Actually still need to decide on CW or NW xt40 for the helmet. Would they both work with the neutral yinding. Do you think its worth sacrificing throw output for the neutral tint on our sandy trails?


You can mix both, though I didn't see any noticeable decrease in output of the neutral XT40. I'm happy to lend you mine to test or if you prefer not to meet, I will leave it for you along the trail.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Thanks for the offer GJHS, I sent you a pm with my info. The weather doesn't seem to be cooperating lately for a ride.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

It would be nice to be able to buy the led board separately. I know that question was up a while ago but now things maybe have changed. GJHS, can you please check again if you talk to GB?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Appel said:


> It would be nice to be able to buy the led board separately. I know that question was up a while ago but now things maybe have changed. GJHS, can you please check again if you talk to GB?


You want to buy the LED board for the Yinding separately?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok Batch two people or people waiting to get their Neutral Yindings. May sent me a picture that isn't so clear to confirm the 3C tint of the second batch. Which do you prefer: I post the photo, you decide and she sends them now or she sends one to me and Monday I will post photos of the two 3C tints side by side to truly confirm and they will be sent after the Spring Holiday (Feb 25)?


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I would like to get a neutral with a blue body color. Is that possible?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

varider said:


> I would like to get a neutral with a blue body color. Is that possible?


May is checking


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Confused here GJHS, what do you mean May sent you a picture that isn't so clear? Assuming also you meant February 25th, not January.

And has anyone figured out yet what the problem actually was with the "bad" bunch of lights sent out earlier? Because from the pics of all the NW Yindings' phosphors posted here, seems both good and bad lamps share the same orange color. Still wonder whether the bad light heads might have something wrong with their boards, or if perhaps the phosphor on some "3C" emitters has simply been applied too heavily. Dunno for sure but imagine both cases might effect the ultimate tint. (A good NW light would look okay even on low and just appear fainter, because PWM.) Considering the limited run and rock bottom pricing, am assuming the Yinding plant just purchases whatever NW 3C Crees they can get a hold of in odd lots. They'd probably have to test each unit separately to insure it was the right tint, guessing that is not their specialty. 

GJHS, have you had a chance yet to compare your amber Yinding with any of the whiter-looking ones? Pretty sure mine is okay, despite how my iPad captures the beam color and all. If you think it would help, could send it to you for a look real quick as long as you promise to return it. ;-)


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok here's the photo May sent. I think it's tough to confirm since there are too many variables and the X3 looks different than mine.

The top one is the Skilhunt H02 Skilhunt H02 New 820Lm Cree XM L2 5 Modes Waterproof Neutral White LED Headlight - 1 x 18650 or 2 x CR123A Battery-49.00 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

The left one is the x3 ( Solarstorm X3 3 Cree XM L2 Neutral LEDs Headlamp - 2200 Lumens 4 Modes-27.98 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com ), the right one is the yinding 3c ( Yinding 900Lm CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery Neutral White US Plug )-44.00 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com )









I think that waiting until I can confirm it against the warm tint in person is better to guarantee 3C.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

GJHS, can you ask May if she can use the same method with camera as I did yesterday in post #1019?
This would be the simplest and fastest way to determine which tint she has. She should get it somewhere between 4800 and 5000K.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

GJHS said:


> You want to buy the LED board for the Yinding separately?


Yes. NW yinding XM-L2 U2 LED boards would be great to have so I can fix my 2nd gen yindings easily. And now when they can ship them separately to those who got a to warm tint yindnig I thought it would be possible to sell them as well.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

enFuego said:


> This was measured with a Minolta Color Meter 2.


Perfect; thanks!


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

ledoman said:


> I can actualy select color temperature on my camera. To determine what K has the light I have to only adjust the camera white balancing until I see it as a plain white on the (white) wall through the camera. No need for sophisticated device until you want it to be very precise.


Nice idea! But it seems not common for cameras to access Kelvins directly. Just curious, what model it is?


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

Has anyone tried smartphone color temp meter apps?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

-Archie- said:


> Nice idea! But it seems not common for cameras to access Kelvins directly. Just curious, what model it is?


Panasonic FZ200 bridge zoom camera. Actualy I don't select Kelvin directly, but can move up/down on scale and the camera displays Klevins in a 100K steps.
Yes, it's really simple and I think many cameras (and I mean CAMERAS) has that feature. Wondering why I didn't think of it before.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

andychrist said:


> Because from the pics of all the NW Yindings' phosphors posted here, seems both good and bad lamps share the same orange color.


Trying to determine the colour of the light by looking at the phosphor is a fools game. It's not like they say "Today we're making 1B, and tomorrow we'll build 3C. Mix up the right batches of phosphor for those."

All the LEDs come off the same assembly line. The phosphor for all of them follow the same recipe. When they come off the line, each LED is tested, and binned according to brightness and colour. There may be minor differences across those due to slightly different thickness in the phosphor, but I very much doubt the human eye could distinguish one bin from another. And after Jpg compression, with a wide variety of cameras and lighting conditions there would be absolutely no way to compare them with pictures posted on here.

Somebody somewhere (Yinding or their supplier) made an error. They either grabbed the wrong spool of LEDs and nobody checked the label, or the supplier purposely mislabelled them thinking "nobody will ever notice the difference." Possibly a host of other errors too. But it all led to us getting warm LEDs, not neutral.

Definitely not GearBest's fault.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Over a 1000 posts about slight tint differences on a ~$35 light...this may be the ultimate mtbr thread!


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

If one is truly really picky about the tint of this cheap light it comes to a great discussion


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

GJHS said:


> You want to buy the LED board for the Yinding separately?


Sounds good to me as a tint fix.. If my Yindings finally arrive with a brownish too-warm tint I don't mind installing a new board with 3C tint, and I'll even mail the old ones back if they want.

I was considering carving down the KD board I have with the neutral tint I like to fit the Gearbest Yinding, rather than trying to reflow the LEDs, but a new board would be better.

Incidentally, I am looking forward to comparing the NW Yinding to my NW-modified KD. I ordered mine early but nothing's here yet.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Has anyone found a replacement button cover that sticks out a bit more and is easier to press? I was out on my 2nd night ride with the Yinding and that button is really hard to press with gloves... pretty much have to remove my glove to change modes.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

MK96 said:


> If one is truly really picky about the tint of this cheap light it comes to a great discussion


Apparently!


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

TiGeo said:


> Apparently!


And apparently valuable experience in what it takes to get something right.
Kinda the never give up theory.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

My hopefully cool white was finally shipped.

Currently they have a nice deal on natural white version. GJHS do you maybe know what will we get if we order it? New "fixed" version that you will test if it has correct tint?


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## Memristor (Dec 18, 2014)

kwarwick said:


> Has anyone found a replacement button cover that sticks out a bit more and is easier to press? I was out on my 2nd night ride with the Yinding and that button is really hard to press with gloves... pretty much have to remove my glove to change modes.


That would be nice


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Just picked up two Yinding clones from a seller called "Mudder" on Amazon. Plastic/Rubber case with 4 18650, XML-L2. $40 for two!

To confirm, the XML-L2 is the neutral white or "warm white", correct?

Beauty of Amazon is that I'll have them by tomorrow, and I'll post some tint comparisons.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

I'm curious, has anyone attempted modifying a Yinding to a GlowWorm style side mount?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

PHeller said:


> Just picked up two Yinding clones from a seller called "Mudder" on Amazon. Plastic/Rubber case with 4 18650, XML-L2. $40 for two!
> 
> To confirm, the XML-L2 is the neutral white or "warm white", correct?
> 
> Beauty of Amazon is that I'll have them by tomorrow, and I'll post some tint comparisons.


XML-L2 can be of whatever tint. It doesn't say exactly unless there is written something like 3C tint. But most likely you'll get cool white. You should post link to Amazon.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

TiGeo said:


> Over a 1000 posts about slight tint differences on a ~$35 light...this may be the ultimate mtbr thread!


You're Welcome, That's the way I roll! :thumbsup:

Though as as the person who completely lead the charge on the original Duo Clone Thread, I am surprised at your posts here.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Mudder® CREE XM-L L2 2-LED 1200LM 3-Mode Flashing 10-Level Brightness Adjustable 

- 3-Mode Flashing 10-Level Brightness Adjustable Headlamp
- Perfect fit for outdoor sports, such as camping, traveling, hiking.
- Adjustable headband
- Full capacity 4400mAh battery pack for long time using
- Easy to install and use.

_"Lighting mode instruction: When it is turn-off, press the switch for 3 seconds to turn on the Strobe Mode, press the switch again to change from strobe mode to the 3-mode constant output mode (high/mid/low). Long press the switch for 6 seconds, you can see the indicator light flickers with yellow light, now you enters 10-level brightness adjustable mode."_

My guess is that because it had a reviewer post back in June of 2014 that its probably *not* a 3C neutral white.

But for $22.50 each shipped to my door by tomorrow evening, I decided it was worth a try. I'll probably pick up a neutral white Yinding or SolarStorm X3 once the Fenix BA4C 2-cell pack is available.

These are my first riding lights outside of strapping a 600 lumen torch to my helmet, so I should be impressed either way.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

@PHeller: This one belongs to another thread -> http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...umens-bicycle-light-picture-heavy-940595.html


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

ledoman, looks to match! Sorry about the clutter, folks.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS said:


> May is checking


Any word yet on the anodize-colored light heads, GJHS? Doanwannabe a pest but would hate to miss out on MASSIVE SALE! Is there a way to include a "note to seller" when ordering indicating a preference?

Also you might inform GearBest that their review system doesn't work, at least on iOS. Can only enter star ratings for one row, the rest are automatically deleted and then it won't publish review. emailed them about this but haven't heard back.

Thanks again GJHS!


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

GJHS said:


> You're Welcome, That's the way I roll! :thumbsup:
> 
> Though as as the person who completely lead the charge on the original Duo Clone Thread, I am surprised at your posts here.


Boredom and apathy...a bad combo.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> Ok, thanks! I haven't tested its thermal protection yet. How it looks like? Reduces brightness to the minimum or medium level? Is there any flicker or the like?





andychrist said:


> Pretty sure it was to the minimum level, but a bit confusing because of the way it dims down between modes even when passing through Off, so I had to cycle all the way around a few times trying to figure out what was going on. Possibly goes back up at least to Medium if not High when cycled like that; again hard to tell because in all three modes it is too bright to look at, am still seeing spots a week later! And yes, it did start to flicker a bit too, and step down earlier, the more I tried it. Wasn't really testing the Yinding for thermal management at the time, just trying to get decent beam shots but this took long enough for me to notice the step down.


Thank you! Knowing that protection is actually working, I can safely play with mine now.


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

What's the difference between this threads light and the one here.

http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023775

Thx


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Besides color, there is completly different driver and input voltage of 4.2V instead of comon 8.4V. Garry has it documented somewhere at BLF


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

-Archie- said:


> Thank you! Knowing that protection is actually working, I can safely play with mine now.


Hmmm, if it flickers before it steps down though, isn't that a bad sign? Shouldn't it step down _before_ it gets to that point? Thought flickering was caused by dangerous/damaging levels of heat.

I'm not going to risk any more "playing" with my Yinding. But of course will be waiting with baited breath to hear your results, Archie. Just don't flame me if your Yinding flames you. :madmax:


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

andychrist said:


> Hmmm, if it flickers before it steps down though, isn't that a bad sign? Shouldn't it step down _before_ it gets to that point? Thought flickering was caused by dangerous/damaging levels of heat.


Flickering could just mean they didn't apply any hysteresis to the temperature sensing so it flickers as it crosses the step down threshold.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

mb323323 said:


> What's the difference between this threads light and the one here.
> 
> http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023775
> 
> Thx


Yeah, stay away from the 4.2v version! I had a heck of a time getting decent output due to being only 4.2v and losing voltage across the small wiring. Here is my BLF thread on trying to mod it and finding out the real issue (thanks to ledoman's tip).

The biggest issue between these lights though is that the KD versions almost completely lack thermal path from the LED's to the body! The Yinding is probably worth twice as much just to have it's great thermal path!

-Garry


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Can someone point me to a thread where this thermal path of the Yinding is shown clearly in pictures?


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Thx Garry, gonna wait till Gearbest has the cool white color worked out.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

mb323323 said:


> Thx Garry, gonna wait till Gearbest has the cool white color worked out.


There is no issue with the Cool White 1A Yindings. Do you mean Neutral White 3C?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

PHeller said:


> Can someone point me to a thread where this thermal path of the Yinding is shown clearly in pictures?


Original/Real Yinding YD 2xU2 found - Page 6- Mtbr.com


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

kwarwick said:


> Flickering could just mean they didn't apply any hysteresis to the temperature sensing so it flickers as it crosses the step down threshold.


Okay, can confirm now the Yinding does quickly step down to Low when it gets too hot and with hardly any flicker. Realize now reason it had seemingly gone bonkers on earlier runs was that after it had automatically stepped down I kept cycling it back up (in order to capture beam shots) so of course it way overheated. Stupid me. Stupid, stupid! :madman:


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

I feel like there is no need to delay, simply compare the second batch 'real 3C'? Yinding with first batch 'warm white 5c'? Yinding along with Cool white Yinding. With the three side by side , one can definitely be able to determine if the new batch is neutral white.
IMO No need to create extra work and wait time for all buyers, GB and Yinding factory


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

PHeller said:


> Can someone point me to a thread where this thermal path of the Yinding is shown clearly in pictures?


I'm assuming Garry is implying that the Yinding is getting a complete thermal contact path completely around the outer edges of the emitter board. Not sure there is really a way to show that in a photo without removing the emitter board but yes, if there is a photo of that I wouldn't mind seeing that as well.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Yes, there is complete contact behind the emitter board to the body of the light (not just a lip like the KD clone or the 2nd Generation clones). Well I am basing this on others as I haven't disassembled mine. The pics GJHS linked to show it but it's tough to see.

-Garry


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

Cat-man-do said:


> I'm assuming Garry is implying that the Yinding is getting a complete thermal contact path completely around the outer edges of the emitter board. Not sure there is really a way to show that in a photo without removing the emitter board but yes, if there is a photo of that I wouldn't mind seeing that as well.


In this review from 2013 maybe.
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/user-review-yinding-yd-2xu2-gemini-duo-clone-887497.html


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## rideonjon (May 27, 2009)

I would be interested in the fix for the warm white yinding I have two.how do we go about getting in line?

Oh and thank you GJHS for all your hard work and time spent so I can enjoy the night .


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

I see that the original Yindings had a divider inside the body that the emitters mounted to, which seperated them from the driver. On the clones the emitters mount to the front of the body, and the inside is pretty much just open space. 

Could we fill that open space with aluminum foil with thermal past on the front and around the outside?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Am I correct in thinking that this photo >






>...is still correct in how the Yinding is constructed? If so then the entire emitter board has direct contact AND ( a very big AND at that ) the board itself is held down by screws. If true it can't get better contact than that.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> Am I correct in thinking that this photo >
> View attachment 962445
> >...is still correct in how the Yinding is constructed? If so then the entire emitter board has direct contact AND ( a very big AND at that ) the board itself is held down by screws. If true it can't get better contact than that.


That is truly how it's constructed and why the case gets so warm.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

It is the long screws (you can see them in the other images in the review) that hold down the board and also the back piece i place. So when you are fastening the back piece you also press the board against the middle wall in the house.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> Am I correct in thinking that this photo is still correct in how the Yinding is constructed? If so then the entire emitter board has direct contact AND ( a very big AND at that ) the board itself is held down by screws. If true it can't get better contact than that.


Yes, that's correct. In terms of thermal management, it's absolutely perfect design. (I mean, for practical implementations: not talking about "case studies" with direct soldering of LED onto solid block of copper, liquid cooling etc.)

I have another light with similar design:
Sky Ray 4800 Lumen 4 CREE XM L T6 3 Modes LED Bike Light Lamp Lamp Only | eBay



But unfortunately in my sample separate LED bases glued with thermal compound were used, not big common one. Maybe I'll try to find proper four-LED base, and use the case for one of my DIY projects...


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Interesting Archie. Hard to see in the pic, but I take it that the LEDs are directly mounted to the body (like the Yinding? Did you post a review of your 4x light? Hate to drag this thread off-topic, but I'd like to hear more about that one.

-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I don't like to hijack the thread to, just to say it is a BIG and has same user interface as KD2. In fact with this one I've first time discovered 10 level driver which is exactly the same as this at DX I've already mentioned several times.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

My Batch 2 3C Yinding was shipped fast to me so I could confirm the tint and let the orders go out for both 3C LED plates and the rest waiting for their orders. It should arrive tomorrow, I will post pictures fast and report to May. Thanks to May and GearBest for taking the extra expense to send one out to me to make sure. I apologize for the delay, second batch people, I asked May to hold them until we knew they were perfect and I do think you will agree, it was worth the wait. I will post how to get your new LED plates as soon as I know

Red and Blue people, post your desired case color and emitter tint and May will order them. Keep in mind that China closes for two weeks starting on the 16th so you will receive them in March. May will try to ship out the waiting orders fast before the holiday and the LED plates probably after.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS said:


> Red and Blue people, post your desired case color and emitter tint and May will order them.


D'oh!, was afraid of missing the last day of MASSIVE 1ST ANNIVERSARY EVENT so already put in another order for the black NW Yinding. But would still be interested in *both a red and a blue NW* if available at the same low price as currently advertised.

Thanks again GJHS, _love_ my NW Yinding!


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Yes, would like a new batch 2 c3 in either red or blue. Do we order now and specify or wait till you get back to us. Cool white.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

OK, I'm trying to catch up. Just had a Thorfire cheapo SS X2 copy fail on my brother. I think I managed to find the Yinding on the Gearbest website.

yinding Gadget Deals + Free Shipping | GearBest.com

Is this where to order the lights you guys are discussing? Or, are these models not on the site yet? I'd LOVE to get in on ordering one or two.

I see where it looks like GJHS is spearheading this, but I can't see where to actually order. What battery would you guys recommend for it?

Is this is a good light or bars, helmet, or both?

Help...


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> OK, I'm trying to catch up. Just had a Thorfire cheapo SS X2 copy fail on my brother. I think I managed to find the Yinding on the Gearbest website.
> 
> yinding Gadget Deals + Free Shipping | GearBest.com
> 
> ...


You can order on the GearBest website. With Chinese New Year it may be slower than normal.

This is a good bar light since the optics spread the beam evenly. The optics are easily swapped so you can tighten the beam.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Sorry to pester, but do you have a link? I saw some Yindings on there in various configurations, but I have no idea which ones are the newer gen that you're referencing as having the improved thermal properties. 

Is it just one of the 4-5 options in the link I posted in the post you quoted? I didn't see any in colors, so I wasn't sure if that's even the right ones???


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> Sorry to pester, but do you have a link? I saw some Yindings on there in various configurations, but I have no idea which ones are the newer gen that you're referencing as having the improved thermal properties.
> 
> Is it just one of the 4-5 options in the link I posted in the post you quoted? I didn't see any in colors, so I wasn't sure if that's even the right ones???


yinding Gadget Deals + Free Shipping | GearBest.com

There is Cool White or Neutral White, set or light head only. If you want Red or Blue post it here and I will set it up.

Don't worry about bugging me. If you want to thank me, click the lower left corner and leave me some good feedback. If you have any questions, just ask


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

GJHS said:


> yinding Gadget Deals + Free Shipping | GearBest.com
> 
> There is Cool White or Neutral White, set or light head only. If you want Red or Blue post it here and I will set it up.
> 
> Don't worry about bugging me. If you want to thank me, click the lower left corner and leave me some good feedback. If you have any questions, just ask


Thanks again for your help. Are the batteries with the sets reasonable quality? What would you anticipate for time on high? Would I be better off ordering a battery pack from a more reputable vendor? How's that for some questions!

My faith meter with the Chinese battery packs is really low....


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> Thanks again for your help. Are the batteries with the sets reasonable quality? What would you anticipate for time on high? Would I be better off ordering a battery pack from a more reputable vendor? How's that for some questions!
> 
> My faith meter with the Chinese battery packs is really low....


Mine is good for 2.5 hours on high. Quality on mine is OK, not the best not the worst, I've had it for a year. Most say it's decent enough. Of course for long rides or if you night ride a lot, I would buy a real battery from Hunk Lee.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Mine is good for 2.5 hours on high. Quality on mine is OK, not the best not the worst, I've had it for a year. Most say it's decent enough. Of course for long rides or if you night ride a lot, I would buy a real battery from Hunk Lee.


Sounds good. I'm thinking my brother will night ride once a week at most, and likely less than 2 hours. I think ordering the kit for a bar light to compliment his Speed II helmet light would be a good combination. With a good helmet light, bar lights aren't really even required for our trails (not many fast sections), and if I can get into one for under $50 then that's probably a good option.

Thanks for all of your help!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> Sounds good. I'm thinking my brother will night ride once a week at most, and likely less than 2 hours. I think ordering the kit for a bar light to compliment his Speed II helmet light would be a good combination. With a good helmet light, bar lights aren't really even required for our trails (not many fast sections), and if I can get into one for under $50 then that's probably a good option.
> 
> Thanks for all of your help!


The coupon to get them cheap is "Yinding" if you have any issues or want Red or Blue, contact [email protected]


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I'd like a neutral blue. I want a different case color so that I can keep the lights straight.

*Mini Review*
I finally had a chance to ride my Yinding tonight. I think the beam has a very nice even spread, there's no hard edge to the hot spot. This is in contrast to the Solarstorm X2, which has a very defined hot spot. I prefer the Yinding on a pitch black path/road due to it's even spread. There's also pretty good visibility in the area just in front of tire when the light is mounted on the bar. For part of the ride I rode on path that is adjacent to two lanes of oncoming traffic. Here the Solarstorm is better, as the brighter hot spot penetrates down the path against the glare of oncoming car headlights.

I have to say the button on the Yinding is very hard to press with full fingered gloves. This is due to multiple factors. I typically active the button on the lights with my thumb, with my index finger gripping the front of the light. This keeps the light from slipping around bar. I have some extra material on the gloves thumb area and this seems to hit the tab of the rubber band, making it hard to hit the switch just right. There's also not much click feedback, so I couldn't really tell when I was hitting the switch. The fade-to-next-mode makes this problem worse. The light is so small that the tab of the rubber band is right next to the recessed button. Maybe I just need some more riding time with the light to figure it out.

I think I may try to switch the mount around so that the tab is in the front. Even if that fixes it, the button on the Solarstorm is vastly superior. The button sticks out from the light body and it has a very positive click that you can easily feel through the glove.

To summarize, the Yinding is a nice light with an even beam spread that is good in pitch black and trail use. It also good on the the road, but the Solarstorm X2 is probably better due to highly defined hot spot. The hardware itself is remarkably small and well made. It practically disappears when mounted on the bar. The short cord that is just long enough to reach a battery mounted near the headtube and is compatible with Magicshine connectors.Both lights are much better than the single xml lights (Magishine 808 clones) that were popular a year or two ago.

Last year you could only get this light as a $50 package. I thought that was too much at the time (compared to the Solarstorm). It was quickly cloned and they were inferior to the original. GJHS has brought this light back from the dead, and the $20-$30 price is well worth it.

Highly recommended.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

GJHS said:


> The coupon to get them cheap is "Yinding" if you have any issues or want Red or Blue, contact [email protected]


Get 'em cheap? You mean they're cheaper than the price on the site has them listed? Is that true for the sets as well?? I'm assuming there's a coupon entry upon checkout...any trick to it?


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

varider said:


> I'd like a neutral blue. I want a different case color so that I can keep the lights straight.
> 
> *Mini Review*
> I finally had a chance to ride my Yinding tonight. I think the beam has a very nice even spread, there no hard edge to the hot spot. This is in contrast to the Solarstorm X2, which has a very defined hot spot. I prefer the Yinding on a pitch black path/road due to it's even spread. There's also pretty good visibility in the area just in front of tire when the light is mounted on the bar. For part of the ride I rode on path that is adjacent to two lanes of oncoming traffic. Here the Solarstorm is better, as the brighter hot spot penetrates down the path against the glare of oncoming car headlights.
> ...


Thanks for the review. Did you just buy the light head, or did you get a battery pack with one of the "kits?" GJHS said he's getting 2.5 hours on high with the pack that comes with the set. That's fine for my needs...just wondering if you had similar feedback or if you're using another pack. Thanks!


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> Thanks for the review. Did you just buy the light head, or did you get a battery pack with one of the "kits?" GJHS said he's getting 2.5 hours on high with the pack that comes with the set. That's fine for my needs...just wondering if you had similar feedback or if you're using another pack. Thanks!


I just bought the light head as I already have a Magicshine 4 cell and and a Xeccon 6 cell. I remember others mentioning that the Yinding battery is pretty good, but I personally wouldn't depend on them on too much, they are just too cheap. Another option is the battery box that put your own cells into. There's also a seller called Hunk Lee on ebay that makes premium-cell packs.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

varider said:


> I just bought the light head as I already have a Magicshine 4 cell and and a Xeccon 6 cell. I remember others mentioning that the Yinding battery is pretty good, but I personally wouldn't depend on them on too much, they are just too cheap. Another option is the battery box that put your own cells into. There's also a seller called Hunk Lee on ebay that makes premium-cell packs.


Thanks, I didn't read through the entire thread or I probably wouldn't have had so many questions. I appreciate you letting me know.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> Interesting Archie. Hard to see in the pic, but I take it that the LEDs are directly mounted to the body (like the Yinding?


Exactly.



> Did you post a review of your 4x light? Hate to drag this thread off-topic, but I'd like to hear more about that one.


I'm planning to write a review, but at some later time: currently I've put that light "on hold"...


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok Guys, I just received the 3C Yinding and I'm happy to report that this one is truly 3C. I will take photos as soon as I gets dark here.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Got my Yinding today. I had the Neutral KD at work to compare. I definitely have a warm white Yinding. Much browner than the neutral KD. I'll be changing the board. GJHS, is that the plan?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Got my Yinding today. I had the Neutral KD at work to compare. I definitely have a warm white Yinding. Much browner than the neutral KD. I'll be changing the board. GJHS, is that the plan?


Correct that's the plan


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Here is the picture of the new/correct 3C and boy it was difficult to get the tint to be accurate to what my eyes were seeing.

Warm Left and new 3C Right


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

That 3c looks like my original Yinding with the XM-L2 T6 3B.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

TiGeo said:


> That 3c looks like my original Yinding with the XM-L2 T6 3B.


Thanks Ti, that helps. It looks good to me, it's just hard to show it


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Huh, are they both the "new" 3C or just the one on top right? That one looks kinda blue. 3C on bottom right looks good. Did you have to change the WB from one shot to the other?


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

GJHS said:


> Thanks Ti, that helps. It looks good to me, it's just hard to show it


I assume that 3B and 3C are supposed to be close correct? (even if one is a U2 and one is a T6)?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

TiGeo said:


> I assume that 3B and 3C are supposed to be close correct? (even if one is a U2 and one is a T6)?


Yes tint is the same, brightness is different


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

andychrist said:


> Huh, are they both the "new" 3C or just the one on top right? That one looks kinda blue. 3C on bottom right looks good. Did you have to change the WB from one shot to the other?


The 3C looks pretty white until you actually put it next to the 1A. Sorry it wasn't easy to get them both accurate to my eyesite. I included another picture that i thought made the 1A look too blue.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Is it possible to get an order page on the gearbest for a blue-case neutral white?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok 3C batch 2 people you should be getting shipping notices. I apologize again for the delay


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

GJHS, now you see why I was explaining so much about tints, whitebalance, etc...
Since you have probably your camera set to atomatic WB, you should make a picture of all three at once on the same picture. That would show them much better regadring their differencies. Now the same 3C has different tint on the two pictures and bit distratcting to the people who doesn't understand what's behind.
Just my opinion.

And I would vote the 3C tint replacement boards to be sent before China NY if possible.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Sorry, the picture is the best I can do. I'm just not a photographer, I tried all the different white balance settings to get the picture to look like what I see. I ended up using the C.Temp/Filter and I think that's pretty accurate.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

@GJHS Great news about batch 2. What do you think of the possibilities to buy replacement bords (now in this turn of events). Even if I don't have a 5C tint Yinding I have several 2nd gen 1A tint Yindings I don't know what to do with. It would be really great to be able to lay hands on some 3C replacement boards. Do you think I should try mail May at GB?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I'm on it and she is looking in to it. It just that everyone is busy prepping for the New Year and a lot of people are ordering to avoid waiting so everything is on hold. As soon as I have the answer I will post it. I am guessing they will be available when the 3Cs are sent to the people with warm tint Yindings.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

No need to be photographer. Any camera is doing auto white balance by default. If you take picture of all the lights at same time then camera is *evaluating all *and you get clear representation of *differencies*. Still probably not the real as you see it. Then you try to adjust WB to be as much as close you can get. 
If you are taking picture one by one or two, the camera is evaluating (same as eye) only one and this is most of the time far away from reality. You have seen that effect when even 3C *alone* was almost white to your eyes.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

GJHS said:


> Here is the picture of the new/correct 3C and boy it was difficult to get the tint to be accurate to what my eyes were seeing.
> 
> Warm Left and new 3C Right
> View attachment 962931


To me this looks exactly like the warm GB Yinding next to my Neutral-modified KD Yinding clone. Thanks for saving me the need to take this pic.

Do we need to do anything to request the correct board, or does GB know who to send them to?


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

At the risk of confusing this issue even further:



Ofroad'bent said:


> To me this looks exactly like the warm GB Yinding next to my Neutral-modified KD Yinding clone.


Also looks somewhat similar to my NW Yinding from GB next to my NW KD 880 clone, as captured by my iPad.









But to my eye the Yinding just appears soft white, not pink like in the photo, while the KD clone seems a very bright, almost harsh fluorescent white. Suspect my KD is not really a NW though, probably the same bin they advertise as White with their newish XM-L2 U2s. Hmm, would the 3C Yinding replacement emitter board fit inside the KD 880 clone? - Maybe should tell May I received the wrong tint too!


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

andychrist said:


> would the 3c yinding replacement emitter board fit inside the kd 880 clone?


no!


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

what ledoman said about WB, that aso looks like my NW yinding next to halogen
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...ing-yd-2xu2-found-941540-36.html#post11732396


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

How many are interested in seperate 3C LED boards to buy seperate? 

As far as tints, the new 3C Yinding is truly neutral. As I said it looks like a nice mellow white. The only way to see the true neutral tint is to turn on the 1A.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

We'll see if this mod works. I cut down a KD LED board to fit in the Yinding. 
If not, I'm in for a 3C Yinding board. I'll gladly send back the warm white.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ofroad'bent said:


> We'll see if this mod works. I cut down a KD LED board to fit in the Yinding.
> If not, I'm in for a 3C Yinding board. I'll gladly send back the warm white.


How does the tint compare to the second batch 3C Yinding?


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

I'm in for some 3c led boards.

Can we guess a price? 2$?? 5$?????


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Can you guess? Yes

Can it help? Maybe :smilewinkgrin:


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

I think I want an extra board too. It will probably just sit in a drawer as a backup, and feed my almost approaching horder status, but I still want one.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I still don't understand how to order a neutral with a blue case.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

varider said:


> I still don't understand how to order a neutral with a blue case.


May will post a link on the GB website.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

GJHS said:


> Ok 3C batch 2 people you should be getting shipping notices. I apologize again for the delay


GJHS, are the yindings now shipping with the new 3C? I'm thinking about buying one. Oh, while I'm at it is there anyway to confirm that the 3C tint is also being used in the solar storm x3 and the XT40?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Yes they should be shipping. The X3 and XT40 tint was 3C as far as I know.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

varider said:


> I still don't understand how to order a neutral with a blue case.


[email protected]

Hi Andy,

I'm sorry the blue options will be after about one month later, do you mind waiting, if yes, then I will ask our related staff to hold this order, please let me know your thoughts.

Regards,
May.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

BTW GJHS, do you notice any difference between the color of phosphors in your first warm Yinding and the 3C you just received? If so could you take comparison pics under natural light and post them here? Might help figuring out what each of us received. Thanks again, and again and again.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

andychrist said:


> BTW GJHS, do you notice any difference between the color of phosphors in your first warm Yinding and the 3C you just received? If so could you take comparison pics under natural light and post them here? Might help figuring out what each of us received. Thanks again, and again and again.


Yep, will do, tomorrow. Hopefully we can meet up to compare your 3C with the second batch. It sounds as if you have a good one.

Once the Spring Festival is done, everyone will get their LED plates.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS said:


> Yep, will do, tomorrow. Hopefully we can meet up to compare your 3C with the second batch. It sounds as if you have a good one.
> 
> Once the Spring Festival is done, everyone will get their LED plates.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Thanks for the clarification


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## Rotund (Jun 24, 2012)

post removed wrong forum


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Wrong thread, don't hijack it. Delete your post and continue in http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/solarstorm-fandyfire-x2-844802.html


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

GJHS said:


> How does the tint compare to the second batch 3C Yinding?


No idea. I only got one Yinding so far, ordered the first (1A)around Christmas, changed order to Neutral white as soon as you mentioned it, but the light just showed up.
It's definitely one of the too-warm batch. I haven't seen the correct 3C one.

I'll let you know when May sends me a 3C board as I have another light that was ordered a week or two later.

Do I need to request a replacement board, or does GB know who got the bad tint!


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Ofroad'bent said:


> We'll see if this mod works. I cut down a KD LED board to fit in the Yinding.
> If not, I'm in for a 3C Yinding board. I'll gladly send back the warm white.


Well, the 10-step driver fit with some modification of the switch. The modified KD LED board fit nicely after my adjustments, but there must be a trace near the edge I've cut as it's dead now. Fail- guess I'm waiting for the true neutral 3C Yinding board.

There is voltage to the LED wires. I'll put the warm white LED board back in for now.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

AFAIK, the only problem with driver is the height of the switch button. All other things should fit nicely.

I don't think you have cut the trace on the PCB. From led to led it goes strait in the middle. You should check conductivity and leds with DMM.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

ledoman said:


> AFAIK, the only problem with driver is the height of the switch button. All other things should fit nicely.
> 
> I don't think you have cut the trace on the PCB. From led to led it goes strait in the middle. You should check conductivity and leds with DMM.


I drilled a hole in the middle to pass the wires through- (Not shown in pic) that's where I cut the trace I guess. Can't tell as it has a white layer over it but it makes sense.

I should have drilled holes in the housing to pass the wires down where they connect at the outer sides of the boards.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Ahh, that's different story. Still you can scratch dielectric layer near the leds and solder the bridge wire directly to the trace. Just not to close to the leds so the lenses would have enough place.


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## MichaelHa (Jan 29, 2015)

Had my first bike tour with the Yinding 'Neutral white'.
Tint looks too brown even in the dark hours - can't wait to get the replacement board. Beyond this; weight and quality of the Yinding are really impressive for such a small price.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

GJHS was nice enough to meet up with me and show me the wide variety of lights he has. All the lights he showed me were impressive. I saw xt40,x3, all 3 (GB) tint varieties of yinding, and the cool white nitenumen (A2). The yinding was the only light on high that could keep hands warm.

All these lights are good enough for helmet use. The nieutemen is a very functional helmet light and xt40 would be a great light if you need that much light.

I want to comment on the tint. If you want the brightest yinding light get the cool white yinding it looked brighter to me. The NW and "warm" (3C vs 5C) looked to be exactly the same brightness. However the 3C tint is very nice and looks pure white when looking at the light however, the reflected light looks neutral (trees reflecting light similar to tones under sunlight). 

Continuing on the topic of tint both of us agreed the xt40 3C looked better (less blue/green) than the x3 3C. The brightness difference between nw and cw xt40 weren't apparent because they are so bright on medium and high it didn't really matter.

The nitenumen A2 looked like a great helmet light to me. It has some cool features like a throw led/button, a separate in line button, and unique styling (low profile/small size). The tint looked too cool for me though. Throw was better than yinding.

We must be patient, and very glad that GJHS not only mediated the buy, the testing, tint problem proof, solution, but most importantly helped everyone with their issues and requests. Had we all done the buy through another online store the solution to the problem would be very different and painful.

P.S. GJHS is not a GB employee, for anyone still on that theory  I hope this helps anyone wanting to make a last minute purchase before the Chinese new year, and those wanting additional comment on all the yinding tints side by side.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Thanks for the review jokaankit. I ordered the Yinding with the cool tint, and I've never had an issue with a "blue-ish" looking tint, which is how a lot of people describe "cool white." I ordered that one, rather than the natural, with the thought that it would be brighter, and it sounds like I made the right decision. Oh...and I ordered it on Monday, and I got notification that it shipped today. With a 7 to 25 business day delivery estimate, who knows when it will get here, but hopefully I managed to dodge the Chinese Holiday! 

You mentioned the nitenumen A2 as making a great helmet light. Do you feel the Yinding will also make a good helmet light? My plan is to have it on the bars paired with a Speed II that I already own, but on some slower rides and group rides, I sometimes just go with helmet only. I'm just curious how it would fare as a helmet light. Thoughts?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

varider said:


> I still don't understand how to order a neutral with a blue case.


May will put them for presale and then you can order


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Ok 3C batch 2 people you should be getting shipping notices. I apologize again for the delay


Anyone got a shipment notice yet? I have not (ordered december 2014).


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Well, the 10-step driver fit with some modification of the switch. The modified KD LED board fit nicely after my adjustments, but there must be a trace near the edge I've cut as it's dead now. Fail- guess I'm waiting for the true neutral 3C Yinding board.
> 
> There is voltage to the LED wires. I'll put the warm white LED board back in for now.


OK, got the too-warm board back in. Light works perfectly, with 10-step programmability. I also swapped one optic for a 10 degree, and added a zip tie on the power cord for strain relief. My soldering is a bit neater on the power wires than the original, but it wasn't bad.

I'll mount the Vancbiker aluminum finned Gopro mount for better heat sinking too.

I tried half-heartedly to reflow the LEDs from the KD board to the Yinding, but the board just didn't heat up enough with a soldering iron below to release the emitter. No worry, will wait for the true 3C board.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Appel said:


> Anyone got a shipment notice yet? I have not (ordered december 2014).


Email May


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## MichaelHa (Jan 29, 2015)

bhocewar said:


>





jokaankit said:


> I want to comment on the tint. If you want the brightest yinding light get the cool white yinding it looked brighter to me.


Hi Jokaankit,

thank you for your reply and the information regarding the cool white version. This convinces me even more to change against CW. I hope that the my final Yinding looks exactly like Bhocewar's pic above.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

*Be very careful taking these apart!*

I took a look inside my NW Yinding today with a view to seeing how easy it would be to replace the factory power cable with a SolarStorm style one. During my very careful dis-assembly I noticed that one of the two long screws that go that goes through the LED plate and holds the back on was not at all tight. I didn't think much too much of it at the time but when reassembling I quickly realized that the threads in the back plate are almost completely stripped and now it isn't possible to tighten the screws. I have suspicion that this NW Yinding was not build up from new with the NW board, but retrofitted and unfortunately the person doing so over-torqued the screws. Looking at the fine pitch of these screws it isn't terribly surprising as you can't expect aluminum to hold such a tiny thread unless it is very precisely machined and even then it will wear a bit with each tightening. Unfortunately now I'm left with a light I can't reassemble! :eekster:

This raises a serious concern for the folks who will be replacing their too warm LED boards in the coming months... I predict a fair number of them will have the same problem.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

that is the 1A tint in the picture, I believe the GearBest CW yinding is close to 1D which is a very nice tint, and will have slightly less blue. It really comes down to preference. 

The light might appear less bright, but you can see everything just as clear if not clearer. I noticed maybe ~20% more branches with the CW shinning in the distance, these distances are of no use to singletrack mountain bikers IMHO. If your regular trail has lots of tight singletrack the NW is nice. Someone tried estimating how much brighter the CW looked, that's probably just as tricky as capturing tint in pictures.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

kwarwick said:


> I took a look inside my NW Yinding today with a view to seeing how easy it would be to replace the factory power cable with a SolarStorm style one. During my very careful dis-assembly I noticed that one of the two long screws that go that goes through the LED plate and holds the back on was not at all tight. I didn't think much too much of it at the time but when reassembling I quickly realized that the threads in the back plate are almost completely stripped and now it isn't possible to tighten the screws. I have suspicion that this NW Yinding was not build up from new with the NW board, but retrofitted and unfortunately the person doing so over-torqued the screws. Looking at the fine pitch of these screws it isn't terribly surprising as you can't expect aluminum to hold such a tiny thread unless it is very precisely machined and even then it will wear a bit with each tightening. Unfortunately now I'm left with a light I can't reassemble! :eekster:
> 
> This raises a serious concern for the folks who will be replacing their too warm LED boards in the coming months... I predict a fair number of them will have the same problem.


To bad about the screw Kwarwick, thanks for giving us a heads up. Maybe you can take it to a RC hobby shop and they can tap in a new hole and give you appropriate screws.
I cranked down all my screws when I got the light, no striped threads or screw heads. However cranking down on the front screws compressed the o-ring a lot, and caused it to burst off after I took it apart a second time. Was easy to fix the o-ring. Make sure you use the right tools for the job and be cautious when upgrading the board everyone.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> Thanks for the review jokaankit. I ordered the Yinding with the cool tint, and I've never had an issue with a "blue-ish" looking tint, which is how a lot of people describe "cool white." I ordered that one, rather than the natural, with the thought that it would be brighter, and it sounds like I made the right decision. Oh...and I ordered it on Monday, and I got notification that it shipped today. With a 7 to 25 business day delivery estimate, who knows when it will get here, but hopefully I managed to dodge the Chinese Holiday!
> 
> You mentioned the nitenumen A2 as making a great helmet light. Do you feel the Yinding will also make a good helmet light? My plan is to have it on the bars paired with a Speed II that I already own, but on some slower rides and group rides, I sometimes just go with helmet only. I'm just curious how it would fare as a helmet light. Thoughts?


A2 has remote adjust ability and was compact like the yinding. The yinding would be great and you can adjust it by swapping to a tighter optic lens. I'm using it on the helmet with the included lens and it's fine as is. Reaching for the hard to press button is annoying on the yinding though. The heat sinking and build quality is nicer on yinding.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

kwarwick said:


> I took a look inside my NW Yinding today with a view to seeing how easy it would be to replace the factory power cable with a SolarStorm style one. During my very careful dis-assembly I noticed that one of the two long screws that go that goes through the LED plate and holds the back on was not at all tight. I didn't think much too much of it at the time but when reassembling I quickly realized that the threads in the back plate are almost completely stripped and now it isn't possible to tighten the screws. I have suspicion that this NW Yinding was not build up from new with the NW board, but retrofitted and unfortunately the person doing so over-torqued the screws. Looking at the fine pitch of these screws it isn't terribly surprising as you can't expect aluminum to hold such a tiny thread unless it is very precisely machined and even then it will wear a bit with each tightening. Unfortunately now I'm left with a light I can't reassemble! :eekster:
> 
> This raises a serious concern for the folks who will be replacing their too warm LED boards in the coming months... I predict a fair number of them will have the same problem.


You could probably re-drill the holes for a slightly thicker screw, or you could maybe put a bit of JBWeld or other epoxy in the hole with a very very fine brush. Ask your dentist for one.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

It is GB CW Yinding that supposed to be U2-1A. It is too blueish for my reference, but not as blue as some SSX2


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

kwarwick said:


> This raises a serious concern for the folks who will be replacing their too warm LED boards in the coming months... I predict a fair number of them will have the same problem.


Very few of the Original 2013 Yindings had that issue, yet some did. I would suggest, unrelated to you issue kwarwick, to snug the screws don't tighten them hard. I have removed mine without issue.

Kwarwick, if you can wait till after the holiday, I will get you the parts you need.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

MichaelHa said:


> Hi Jokaankit,
> 
> thank you for your reply and the information regarding the cool white version. This convinces me even more to change against CW. I hope that the my final Yinding looks exactly like Bhocewar's pic above.


Don't worry, I will take care of your swap. I think the real 3C has the same brightness as the 1A while the Warm Yinding was definitely dimmer. Bhocewar's looks very close to the CW.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

jokaankit said:


> A2 has remote adjust ability and was compact like the yinding. The yinding would be great and you can adjust it by swapping to a tighter optic lens. I'm using it on the helmet with the included lens and it's fine as is. Reaching for the hard to press button is annoying on the yinding though. The heat sinking and build quality is nicer on yinding.


Check here
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/gemini-duo-clones-876449.html
For a wealth of optics info. This is the Original Original Yinding Thread.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> Kwarwick, if you can wait till after the holiday, I will get you the parts you need.


It's possible to order Yinding spare parts?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> It's possible to order Yinding spare parts?


I'm hoping yes and if his light doesn't work, I'll send him mine, even though I'm sure GB will definitely take care of it.

I will ask if extra parts can be bought, though I doubt Yinding will be willing.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

May asked me to post this FYI

Hi all MTBR guys.

The Massive Chinese New Year Festival is about to come, it’s the most important festival in China, effecting every single major supplier, manufacturer and courier that GearBest work with. In this case, we will be operating from the dates from Feb 17th to Feb 23th ( inclu-sive ) in a reduced capacity, but you still can make order and pay for the order as usual during this period.

In order to minimize the inconvenience, we strongly advise placing and paying for your order before Feb 13th.

Really feel sorry if we bring you any trouble, and wish you can enjoy the new year too. Party

GearBest.com


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

GJHS said:


> Very few of the Original 2013 Yindings had that issue, yet some did. I would suggest, unrelated to you issue kwarwick, to snug the screws don't tighten them hard. I have removed mine without issue.
> 
> Kwarwick, if you can wait till after the holiday, I will get you the parts you need.


I definitely understand how not to over torque bolts having many years of building and repairing devices of all sorts. One of the things I learned a long time ago that really helps avoid stripping or cross-threading is to rotate the screw backwards (counterclockwise) first until you feel a click of the threads aligning, then slowly begin tightening with gentle finger pressure.

A new back cover should solve the problem if you can swing that.

Thanks!

Karl


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

kwarwick said:


> I definitely understand how not to over torque bolts having many years of building and repairing devices of all sorts. One of the things I learned a long time ago that really helps avoid stripping or cross-threading is to rotate the screw backwards (counterclockwise) first until you feel a click of the threads aligning, then slowly begin tightening with gentle finger pressure.
> 
> A new back cover should solve the problem if you can swing that.
> 
> ...


That's why I said, unrelated to your problem. I didn't think you stripped them.

I have a major role is this project and I apologize for the Holiday delay. Know that May is on top of all the concerns and issues. This has been a cool and exhausting experience, a lot of work goes on behind the scenes and I'm looking forward to a short break from it. As soon as the Holiday is done, I will bug May and she will start the process of getting the 3C LEDs sent out along with anything still waiting. Now if it was only warm enough ride!


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

kwarwick said:


> I took a look inside my NW Yinding today with a view to seeing how easy it would be to replace the factory power cable with a SolarStorm style one. During my very careful dis-assembly I noticed that one of the two long screws that go that goes through the LED plate and holds the back on was not at all tight. I didn't think much too much of it at the time but when reassembling I quickly realized that the threads in the back plate are almost completely stripped and now it isn't possible to tighten the screws. I have suspicion that this NW Yinding was not build up from new with the NW board, but retrofitted and unfortunately the person doing so over-torqued the screws. Looking at the fine pitch of these screws it isn't terribly surprising as you can't expect aluminum to hold such a tiny thread unless it is very precisely machined and even then it will wear a bit with each tightening. Unfortunately now I'm left with a light I can't reassemble! :eekster:
> 
> This raises a serious concern for the folks who will be replacing their too warm LED boards in the coming months... I predict a fair number of them will have the same problem.


My original was stripped. They really are too small for the job.
I tried grinding the LED board down to give some extra thread but no success. Its holding OK with just one, not sure if its waterproof.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

znomit said:


> My original was stripped. They really are too small for the job.
> I tried grinding the LED board down to give some extra thread but no success. Its holding OK with just one, not sure if its waterproof.


2013 or 2015 Original? Seems like all lights use similar tiny screws


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

znomit said:


> My original was stripped. They really are too small for the job.
> I tried grinding the LED board down to give some extra thread but no success. Its holding OK with just one, not sure if its waterproof.


I agree they are way too small for the job. I believe they are M2 screws which have a really fine thread pitch and are only 1.9mm diameter. Not a good combination for threading into aluminum in my opinion, especially with the typical loose machine tolerances that inexpensive Chinese lights tend to have.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

kwarwick said:


> One of the things I learned a long time ago that really helps avoid stripping or cross-threading is to rotate the screw backwards (counterclockwise) first until you feel a click of the threads aligning, then slowly begin tightening with gentle finger pressure.


I use the same trick for many years, too. It's especially helpful with plastic parts & self-tapering screws BTW, but with soft metals (like aluminium, copper etc) is also highly recommended...


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

jokaankit said:


> A2 has remote adjust ability and was compact like the yinding. The yinding would be great and you can adjust it by swapping to a tighter optic lens. I'm using it on the helmet with the included lens and it's fine as is. Reaching for the hard to press button is annoying on the yinding though. The heat sinking and build quality is nicer on yinding.


Look, I have the proposal for the Yinding factory! Adding remote control button and providing TIR optics with different angles of beam (either as selectable option or as stand-alone "upgrade kit") will definitely turn this light into real killer for most competitors!


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Original "good" original from Fasttech.

I'll upgrade once the warm XPL model with programable driver appears.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I'm hoping that after at least a year of no sales that Yinding now sees the power of this forum and maybe GB. Enough to listen and either modify the Yinding YD to our requests. A remote would be a good addition or at least a more prominent button.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

I wonder if a drop of Lock-Tight, and clamping until it's dry might be a work-around solution to a problem with stripped threads. I've never tried it, but it seems logical. What do you guys think?


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

You could fill the hole with JB weld and then tap it with the proper tool. Is there room to glue a nut to the inside, that would work also. 

I'm leery of taking mine apart.


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

Figured I would share some of the mods I did and a few beam shots.

Both started as the Cool white Yinding from GB.
Both modified with 10deg optics.

On one of them I replaced the LED board with individual XM-L2 U2 3C on 16mm Noctigon Copper MCPCB. LEDs / board are from mtnelectronics so I know they are the correct tint as advertised. Link below.
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_61&product_id=73

Pic of the boards installed. Optics still fit perfect and sealed with no issues.








Beamshots using the standard MTBR settings except for the first one comparing the tints as 1.6 seconds exposure washed everything out.

Left is original Yinding cool white from GB, right is U2 3C on Noctigon.








Pics below are Low, Med, High

Standard Cool white Yinding from GB:






















U2 3C on Noctigon:


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS said:


> A remote would be a good addition or at least a more prominent button.


Difficulty with operating the Yinding, there is a gap between the solid little mode button inside the back of the light head and the soft silicone cover outside. Result being you have to press your fingertip down into a hole beneath case's body to activate the switch. Could solve problem by filling in gap with piece of plastic shaped like a round screw head, 9.5 mm in diameter - best having a shallow cylindrical void centered on the flat underside to mate with the little mode button and keep the doodad from shifting around.

A _wireless_ remote would be a great feature for any helmet mounted light head. Kinda doubt that is currently within the capabilities of the knock-off factories, but once wireless operation becomes established through the major brands, requisite electonics are sure to enter the common supply stream and get incorporated even into cheapo drivers.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Fourtrax said:


> On one of them I replaced the LED board with individual XM-L2 U2 3C on 16mm Noctigon Copper MCPCB.


Nice job, but I'd suggest drilling/tapering two additional holes for screws, for tightening the LED base by both sides to improve thermal contact.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> Nice job, but I'd suggest drilling/tapering two additional holes for screws, for tightening the LED base by both sides to improve thermal contact.


I think the optics hold them pretty snug, I'm not sure where they would screw into. The two outer screws going all the way into the back cover.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> I think the optics hold them pretty snug,


Can't be sure, but AFAIK in my Yinding optics barely touches emitters.



> I'm not sure where they would screw into. The two outer screws going all the way into the back cover.


Internal "wall" is thick enough to make threaded holes for short screws. Alternatively, it's possible to use ordinary nuts on opposite side: there's plenty of space between the wall and driver's PCB.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> Can't be sure, but AFAIK in my Yinding optics barely touches emitters.
> 
> Internal "wall" is thick enough to make threaded holes for short screws. Alternatively, it's possible to use ordinary nuts on opposite side: there's plenty of space between the wall and driver's PCB.


That could work


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Optics do not press against the LED board or emitters. They sit on outher edge of the housing. You need those screws.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

jokaankit said:


> To bad about the screw Kwarwick, thanks for giving us a heads up. Maybe you can take it to a RC hobby shop and they can tap in a new hole and give you appropriate screws.


IMHO, for those who stripped the threads in Yinding's back panel, most efficient solution would be to use Helicoil thread repair inserts:
helicoil,helicoil insert,helicoil inserts,helicoil kit, helicoil tap, heli-coil, helicoil tools

Currently on eBay it's possible to order M2 ones, as well as all the tools required to install it.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

> Originally Posted by Fourtrax View Post
> On one of them I replaced the LED board with individual XM-L2 U2 3C on 16mm Noctigon Copper MCPCB.





-Archie- said:


> Nice job, but I'd suggest drilling/tapering two additional holes for screws, for tightening the LED base by both sides to improve thermal contact.


It could improve somewhat but not significantly. Firstly because Noctigons has direct thermal path form the led and the copper heats up instantly ie. transfer is fast. Secondly heat dissipation is better at the edges (larger body area) than in the middle so the most heat energy is directed that way (thermodynamic law) where screwed Noctigon has already the best conduction to the body. Third, Noctigons are very flat and one screw should do the job just nicely.

All in all way better than with Alu PCB in any case.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

-Archie- said:


> IMHO, for those who stripped the threads in Yinding's back panel, most efficient solution would be to use Helicoil thread repair inserts:
> helicoil,helicoil insert,helicoil inserts,helicoil kit, helicoil tap, heli-coil, helicoil tools
> 
> Currently on eBay it's possible to order M2 ones, as well as all the tools required to install it.


Hmmmm... I'm tempted, but to spend more on the tools to fix the threads than the whole light cost in the first place? I guess if you had a whole bunch of these to fix... lets hope no one finds themselves in that situation.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Smart idea using XMLs on noctigon boards. I wrote Gearbest to inquire about replacement boards, and Lucas wrote back saying that the warm tint is correct.
If they can't straighten it out with replacment boards I will do the 2 individual LED thing.
I have one in my parts box, just need a second.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

kwarwick said:


> Hmmmm... I'm tempted, but to spend more on the tools to fix the threads than the whole light cost in the first place? I guess if you had a whole bunch of these to fix... lets hope no one finds themselves in that situation.


Full set of tools is too expensive for single use of course, but probably it's possible to find local repair workshop capable to do the operation. The inserts themselves are cheap...


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Fourtrax said:


> Figured I would share some of the mods I did and a few beam shots.
> 
> Both started as the Cool white Yinding from GB.
> Both modified with 10deg optics.
> ...


Great job! The 10 degree seems too tight for my taste. Totally user preference though. Thanks for sharing those beamshots!

-Garry


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> Great job! The 10 degree seems too tight for my taste. Totally user preference though. Thanks for sharing those beamshots!


Ya, the 10 degree works good for me. I run a triple XM-L2 T6 3A with Cute3 SS optics on the bars so I get plenty of flood with that one. I usually run it 1.5A - 2A but below beam shot is running at 3A.

35mm Easy2 LED with Triple XML2-T6-3A and Cute3 SS Optic, running at 3A:


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

10degree? I've never understood why you want "throw". I just want to have light enough to see and when I just have a tiny spot to look in I feel insecure. I use 25degree and 45degree, with as little accentuated difference in spread as possible. Light everywhere. But this is up to personal preferences.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Agree, I use 15°(original) + 25° on my bar Yinding and 2x25° on my helmet Yinding. But I ride only singletracks. Road and fireroads are for 
uphilling where I often ride in a dark.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

jokaankit said:


> GJHS was nice enough to meet up with me and show me the wide variety of lights he has. All the lights he showed me were impressive. I saw xt40,x3, all 3 (GB) tint varieties of yinding, and the cool white nitenumen (A2). The yinding was the only light on high that could keep hands warm.
> 
> All these lights are good enough for helmet use. The nieutemen is a very functional helmet light and xt40 would be a great light if you need that much light.
> 
> ...


Thank you very much for your observations. I believe that what you wrote is how most people, when given the chance to see cool white vs. neutral white, would judge the difference.

Cool white is always going to look brighter because CW produces more glare. The real difference is in how the eye uses that glare. In the summer if you ride trails that are dry and full of green trail-side foliage that glare is going to hurt your night vision. That said this is not always something that the user takes notice of. In Spring/Summer dry conditions with all the green lining the trails ( if you ride trails like that ) the NW LED's should really have an advantage because there should be way less close reflective glare. This means your distance vision should be enhanced a notch, at least this is the theory.

On the other hand the CW will probably work better is you ride a lot in the late fall and winter when all the green brush is leafless. Also if you ride trails that are wet CW is likely the better option. If you ride trails with little to no trail side foliage than CW might also be the better way to go.

Now if you own both types than all your bases are covered. NW is for picky people ( like me ). Not everyone will like or want NW.

*edit...Sorry for the late post. I wrote this yesterday but forgot to press the post button.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

CW (over NW) is better only in snowy conditions.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

-Archie- said:


> Full set of tools is too expensive for single use of course, but probably it's possible to find local repair workshop capable to do the operation. The inserts themselves are cheap...


If I knew someone with the tools then I'd definitely considering "springing" for the inserts. Ultimately those helicoil inserts should make for a much more durable solution as you eliminate the wear of steel on aluminum threads each time the screw is removed/reinstalled.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

ledoman said:


> It could improve somewhat but not significantly. Firstly because Noctigons has direct thermal path form the led and the copper heats up instantly ie. transfer is fast. *Secondly heat dissipation is better at the edges (larger body area) than in the middle so the most heat energy is directed that way (thermodynamic law) where screwed Noctigon has already the best conduction to the body. Third, Noctigons are very flat and one screw should do the job just nicely.*
> 
> All in all way better than with Alu PCB in any case.


Since the Noctigons are mounted to the original board it could be the optics "are" actually contacting the new board. If so it should add a bit more pressure to provide more thermal contact which can't hurt. Still, I'd much prefer having two screws for both boards, if just to keep the emitter alignment more balanced and to provide super thermal contact. Nothing better than two screws to maximize thermal contact. That said he'll probably be fine just the way it is as long as there is some optic pressure.

Now if the optics still don't contact the emitter board it might be possible to add a couple small plastic O-rings to aid in meeting the optic. Very important to get the right size. Too tall and you put too much pressure on the front O-rings. Too little and it really won't help. Anyway, I've seen this done on other cheap lamps I have so I know it can work. Just have to use O-rings that can handle the heat ( and not melt ).


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

bhocewar said:


> CW (over NW) is better only in snowy conditions.


I would say NW is better anytime. This forum is so technical (and I love it) BUT when it comes to tint I'm quite emotional. I think like this: It is much cozier sitting in front of an open fire than under a fluorescent light. The forest feels cool in CW. In NW it feels more inviting. More comfortable.

Skip the tech talk. I ride in the forest for fun and pleasure. I don't want it to be a cool and sterile experience.

I've not tried the 5C tint but I have a lot of 1A lights that I don't want to use now when I have tried 3C tint light (KD 2).

But this is again a very personal opinion...


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Appel said:


> It is much cozier sitting in front of an open fire than under a fluorescent light. The forest feels cool in CW. In NW it feels more inviting. More comfortable.
> 
> I've not tried the 5C tint but I have a lot of 1A lights that I don't want to use now when I have tried 3C tint light (KD 2).


Sounds like you will like a 4C tint and LOVE the 5B1! This was my progression through the experience of neutral white LEDs.

-Garry


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## bianchifan (Feb 13, 2010)

bhocewar said:


> Optics do not press against the LED board or emitters. They sit on outher edge of the housing. You need those screws.


No additional screws are needed, the lenses will press.

Just for interest I did a short check with a copper PCB, PCB plus LED plus LED isolator were too thick, lenses didn't fit in a perfect way.

Stripped threads...maybe unteached staff personal..
My thraeds are all ok, but the srews are lazy.
They are unequal in diameter, 3mm, bore in front 3.5 mm.
M2 cyl screws (DIN/ISO) should have 3.7 mm (3.8 mm max.)

I liked to change but I couldn't :sad:

Neutral White/blue housing at gearbest ....
I opened a presale ticket and asked for the possibility of another color, blue. I asked for the binning of the "neutral white", too.

answer: there should be two colors for the housing, black and natural white. binning? I should tell what I mean, they do not know binning..


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

bianchifan said:


> Neutral White/blue housing at gearbest ....
> I opened a presale ticket and asked for the possibility of another color, blue. I asked for the binning of the "neutral white", too.
> 
> answer: there should be two colors for the housing, black and natural white. binning? I should tell what I mean, they do not know binning..


If you're speaking to GB Customer Service then you may be wasting your time. We were given May as a direct contact because I/we are doing special/custom orders that May and Dora are dealing with direct so CS may have no idea of them.

Forgive me if I'm getting lazy in posting info.

Red and Blue people:
May will put them up for presale right after the Holiday, more or less after March 2nd.

LED Plates 
Same thing, shipping will be coordinated after the Holiday and we are in the works to get them for sale so anyone can get one.

Accessories
We are talking about getting accessories to buy seperate though this one is iffy.

Ultimate Yinding
I spoke with May about more customization by Yinding and she asked for what people want. I think we proved to Yinding that WE are their best customers and can take this light into the future.

So post your ideas here and now so we can present a solid list to May in March!


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## Roxxolid (Jun 16, 2014)

Awesome news GJHS!! I love my little yinding. Blue and red, I'm going to be ordering again. Lol

I'm really not a tech guy, can you please tell me what the emitter is ( 2U2, 2F, 3C like that...) on my Black yinding 900 neutral white that I picked up in the Christmas pre-sale?

Sent from my SCH-i705 using Tapatalk


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

GJHS said:


> If you're speaking to GB Customer Service then you may be wasting your time. We were given May as a direct contact because I/we are doing special/custom orders that May and Dora are dealing with direct so CS may have no idea of them.
> 
> Forgive me if I'm getting lazy in posting info.
> 
> ...


Would be nice to see a driver with the 10-level sub menu like what is used in the KD2 Duo clones. Someone else tried to mod one of the KD boards to use in the Yinding but I don't know if it really worked. It might be that either the board has to be modified to work in a Yinding or the back of the Yinding needs to be modified to work with the board. Since I don't own a Yinding ( yet ) I can't answer that myself.

When GB comes out with the blue Yinding I'll likely pick one up to add to my collection of lamps.

Okay...now what I really want....I would like to see a "new" version of the Yinding, one that has three LED's in parallel similar to the Gloworm XS. I realize though that there could be problems in getting this to work. First, it would need a new design but I figure it shouldn't be too hard to do since it just needs to be about an inch wider. Of course it would need a better driver, one capable of providing at least 2.5A to each LED ( but more would be better ). Even nicer if this driver could include the same 10-level sub menu as I mentioned before. With a lamp this bright having the ability to program the modes would be even more important than with the 2-Led setups. Lastly, it would need a different mounting solution. The wider build would no doubt contact the stem on many bikes. The Gloworm lamps get around this by adding a side extension mount. Hey, works for GW can't see why Yinding couldn't make their own version to make this work.

Hey, I know it's a lot to ask but heck if they make these they'll sell more of these than the standard Yindings. :thumbsup: In the mean time I'll be buying a Yinding as soon as the Chinese new year is over.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

1


Cat-man-do said:


> I would like to see a "new" version of the Yinding, one that has three LED's


Its already struggling with the heat from two under driven LEDs, scaling up to three would be nuts. [email protected] and much deeper finning might be a good idea though.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Cat-man-do said:


> Would be nice to see a driver with the 10-level sub menu like what is used in the KD2 Duo clones. Someone else tried to mod one of the KD boards to use in the Yinding but I don't know if it really worked. It might be that either the board has to be modified to work in a Yinding or the back of the Yinding needs to be modified to work with the board. Since I don't own a Yinding ( yet ) I can't answer that myself.
> 
> When GB comes out with the blue Yinding I'll likely pick one up to add to my collection of lamps.


It was me that did the mod, and it worked fine with some adjustments to the switch button. I now have a warm white 10-level programable Yinding. It's a great upgrade. All GB would need to correct the switch is a different silicone cover.

I also tried to mod the KD neutral LED board, and that was a fail. Will get a proper Yinding neutral board.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Someone recently wrote "this may be the ultimate mtbr thread!" which made me wonder, so I checked. As of the last post, this thread has the most replies (1198) of any thread on the MTBR Lights Forums and the thread with the second most (1197) is from 11-29-2011. That thread reached that number after 3 years of posts, while this thread reached it after 2 months.

This is all because of a light that was first discovered in the summer of 2013 and lost popularity at the end of that year when it was replaced by cheap copies of the light. Fast forward a year and a half later and now that the quality has returned, Yinding has sold more than 300 lights in under a month, proving quality sells.

Yinding has a great product, I think with a few improvements they can take this light into the future and be very successful with the new model if they take the time to listen to user feedback. 

With May, Dora and GearBest listening and forwarding our input, we have a good opportunity. Input like CatManDo's is really helpful and if Yinding is smart they will listen. We obviously proved a point. Keep your input coming and I will forward them and see what we can do.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

znomit said:


> 1
> 
> Its already struggling with the heat from two under driven LEDs, scaling up to three would be nuts. [email protected] and much deeper finning might be a good idea though.


Yep, I was assuming it might need to be a little taller with more finning/surface area to go with the increased width. Hey, if Gloworm can do it others can as well.

Not too many lamps using the XPL. Only thing I have with an XPL is a torch and I'm very impressed with it. Might be interesting to see one of the clones with XPL's.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

znomit said:


> Its already struggling with the heat from two under driven LEDs


A while back I made a one-off prototype GoPro adapter for Ofroad'bent to use on one of his Yindings. it had a larger mounting surface with a couple heatsink fins machined into it. At the time it didn't generate much interest from other Yinding or Yinding clone users so I never put it into production.

In the last two or three weeks, I've received a couple inquiries about that prototype. I'm thinking there may be a larger group of Yinding users out there now that may generate enough orders to justify doing a small run of this finned adapter. If I had ~12 pieces ordered, it would justify the work. At that quantity, the price would work out to ~$18 ea. I'm not sure of the postage cost as this cannot mail in the padded envelope I use for the regular GoPro adapters, but I'll keep it as reasonable as possible. I'm not looking for firm commitments or anything, more of a Yeah! or Nah...


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

The button sucks. They need a Solarstorm type of button. If they are talking about a redesign than that should be at the top of the list.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

varider said:


> The button sucks. They need a Solarstorm type of button. If they are talking about a redesign than that should be at the top of the list.


I like the button.
I hate the solarstorm button.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

That's interesting - I haven't tried to ride with Yinding yet, but after reading all these comments about inconvenient button, quickly checked it at home: even in thick winter gloves, I can press the button without any problems...


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

As for suggestions for Yinding factory about possible future modifications, I'd repeat my former ideas: provide optics with different angle, and remote button.

One more crazy idea - the model with red LEDs. There's strong demand for powerful rear lights, and if "red Yinding" will be available, I believe many customers will buy it.

Another thought: dedicated helmet mount. Currently it's possible to use MS-style helmet adaptor, but it's quite ugly and bulky for such small light...


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

For the Yinding I suggest: Skip the need to toggle trough off. Skip the flash mode and off can then be long press. I also don't like the Yinding button. You have to press quite hard. The KD2 and Gemini Duo buttons are much better. Just a light touch and you have a nice "klick". On the KD2 and Gemini Duo you don't have to toggle through off either. 

Otherwise I will wait for the next technology step. Better leds and better batteries (it would be nice with 100 times better batteries). And it would also be nice with lights with better reflectors/optics. Now the most common is conical light pictures. I would like a light with true half light, ie no light upwords that can blind fellow road/track users.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Agreed, it is stoopid having to cycle through Off when changinging modes. Perhaps there should not even _be_ an Off. As with most light heads nowadays, the Yinding's Power/Mode button stays illuminated as long as it is connected to a live battery and so continues to drain it when the lamp is not otherwise in use. Who here has not at some time or other forgotten to dissconnect the cables at the end of a ride, only to find the battery nearly/fully depleted just a couple of days later? Were the only way of shutting down the beams being a full disconnect, one would be unlikely to make such a mistake. Then Flash could remain "hidden" - it's actually quite a good implementation on the Yinding.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Vancbiker said:


> A while back I made a one-off prototype GoPro adapter for Ofroad'bent to use on one of his Yindings. it had a larger mounting surface with a couple heatsink fins machined into it. At the time it didn't generate much interest from other Yinding or Yinding clone users so I never put it into production.
> 
> In the last two or three weeks, I've received a couple inquiries about that prototype. I'm thinking there may be a larger group of Yinding users out there now that may generate enough orders to justify doing a small run of this finned adapter. If I had ~12 pieces ordered, it would justify the work. At that quantity, the price would work out to ~$18 ea. I'm not sure of the postage cost as this cannot mail in the padded envelope I use for the regular GoPro adapters, but I'll keep it as reasonable as possible. I'm not looking for firm commitments or anything, more of a Yeah! or Nah...


You will see a pic of this on my Yinding light shortly. It's a great solution to the heat sink issue. Heck, maybe even deeper fins are possible. I will remove the o-ring from between mount and body and add thermal paste.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Appel said:


> For the Yinding I suggest: Skip the need to toggle trough off. Skip the flash mode and off can then be long press. I also don't like the Yinding button. You have to press quite hard. The KD2 and Gemini Duo buttons are much better. Just a light touch and you have a nice "klick". On the KD2 and Gemini Duo you don't have to toggle through off either.
> 
> Otherwise I will wait for the next technology step. Better leds and better batteries (it would be nice with 100 times better batteries). And it would also be nice with lights with better reflectors/optics. Now the most common is conical light pictures. I would like a light with true half light, ie no light upwords that can blind fellow road/track users.


Even my mod with the KD 10-step board improved the switch. I trimmed the plastic button knob and silicone noblet down just enough that it sticks out more than the original.

Being able to cycle modes without going through "off" means way more battery life in some situations. I like the idea of "off" being a long press from any mode.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

-Archie- said:


> One more crazy idea - the model with red LEDs. There's strong demand for powerful rear lights, and if "red Yinding" will be available, I believe many customers will buy it.
> 
> Another thought: dedicated helmet mount. Currently it's possible to use MS-style helmet adaptor, but it's quite ugly and bulky for such small light...


Amen brother on both counts. I may get another light as a donor body for some DIY projects and see if I can get a decent waterproof switch on the back and fit a MobyDrv driver in there. It would allow more than 3 modes including several flashing options.

Throw in 2 red LEDs and you have a killer daylight-visible lifesaver for road riding.
Put 2 single XML-2s in there on copper bases in parallel and you have a more versatile 4.2v light, but only 1.5 A max to each LED.


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## inch (Feb 6, 2014)

bianchifan said:


> Stripped threads...maybe unteached staff personal..
> My thraeds are all ok, but the srews are lazy.
> They are unequal in diameter, 3mm, bore in front 3.5 mm.
> M2 cyl screws (DIN/ISO) should have 3.7 mm (3.8 mm max.)
> ...


Those are M1.6 screws NOT M2


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> A while back I made a one-off prototype GoPro adapter for Ofroad'bent to use on one of his Yindings... I'm not looking for firm commitments or anything, more of a Yeah! or Nah...


Kevin, those finned mounts were what I was originally looking for but didn't see them on your site when ordering from you, assumed they must have been a failure. Would have taken all six in that style had they been on offer, D'oh!


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## Moguo (Apr 3, 2012)

-Archie- said:


> As for suggestions for Yinding factory about possible future modifications, I'd repeat my former ideas: provide optics with different angle, and remote button.
> 
> One more crazy idea - the model with red LEDs. There's strong demand for powerful rear lights, and if "red Yinding" will be available, I believe many customers will buy it.
> 
> Another thought: dedicated helmet mount. Currently it's possible to use MS-style helmet adaptor, but it's quite ugly and bulky for such small light...


I'm also interested in both ideas.

Does the Yinding factory make any other lights ?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Vancbiker said:


> I'm not looking for firm commitments or anything, more of a Yeah! or Nah...


I think I'd be in for one. I don't know if you want to start a new thread for this or not, but it might get lost in this one.

-Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Amen to the switch being hard to press, amen also to getting "off" out of the mode cycle (long press from any mode, whereas hidden strobe should be long press from "off"), and also amen to a nicer solution for helmet mounting.

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I agree with off being long press yet with this driver, it's easy to miss off because it slowly fades off. You can easily skip off without the light going out.

I spoke with May last night, her last day working before the Holiday. She was asking about which driver, so the KD driver is the one everyone wants? I have heard of a stepless (?) driver though haven't seen any examples. Also a Yinding red light is something everyone wants?


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> Amen to the switch being hard to press, amen also to getting "off" out of the mode cycle (long press from any mode, whereas hidden strobe should be long press from "off"), and also amen to a nicer solution for helmet mounting.
> 
> -Garry


Exactly.



GJHS said:


> Also a Yinding red light is something everyone wants?


Would like to see a tail light from Yinding inside a similar lamp body (anodized red, of course!) but am afraid just about everything else about it would have to be different. Agree with Ofroad'bent about 4.2V. Driver need support flashing/strobe in low power modes, the two emitters independently controlled. Also, current Yinding does not have any side view, so same optics should not be employed for tail light. Perhaps shallow reflectors might work better here, in conjunction with hemispherical elliptical lenses protruding from the face plate like a pair of beady red eyeballs.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

andychrist said:


> Kevin, those finned mounts were what I was originally looking for but didn't see them on your site when ordering from you, assumed they must have been a failure. Would have taken all six in that style had they been on offer, D'oh!


Hey Andy,

If this gets enough interest to get the finned version made, I'll take back the standard ones you bought and give you credit against an order of the finned version.

I'll wait a few days to see if enough folks think it would be worth having.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Ofroad'bent said:


> ...It's a great solution to the heat sink issue. Heck, maybe even deeper fins are possible.


Deeper fins are possible and part of what I have planned. Yours was made with that size of fins as I was using tooling that I have on hand. A slotting saw, able to cut deeper, is part of the additional tooling I need to get to make this version a "production" item. That's part of the expense that I hope to get a partial return on by getting a dozen or so in the initial run.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

andychrist said:


> Would like to see a tail light from Yinding inside a similar lamp body (anodized red, of course!) but am afraid just about everything else about it would have to be different. Agree with Ofroad'bent about 4.2V. Driver need support flashing/strobe in low power modes, the two emitters independently controlled. Also, current Yinding does not have any side view, so same optics should not be employed for tail light. Perhaps shallow reflectors might work better here, in conjunction with hemispherical elliptical lenses protruding from the face plate like a pair of beady red eyeballs.


Thing you're describing would be totally different light, but now we're talking about possible modifications of existing Yinding. While some special optics may be better, even currently used one is Ok. High-power tail lights use such optics quite often:

























Current modes of YD driver (three levels of steady ON and blinking) are suitable for rear light, too: all what's really required aside LEDs change is, increasing of current sence resistor's value to reduce current.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> Hey Andy,
> 
> If this gets enough interest to get the finned version made, I'll take back the standard ones you bought and give you credit against an order of the finned version.
> 
> I'll wait a few days to see if enough folks think it would be worth having.


Thanks Kevin, you da man. :thumbsup:

Now c'mon peeps, show some interest!


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Ofroad'bent said:


> ....*Being able to cycle modes without going through "off" means way more battery life in some situations.* I like the idea of "off" being a long press from any mode.


Huh?....You're going to have to explain that. Not having "Off" in the cycle of modes, how does that have any significant effect on battery runtime?

I do understand though the preference for not wanting "off" in the cycle of modes. For lamps that are multi-purpose ( bars or helmet ) the press and hold off is likely better. On the other hand having off in the cycle of modes works pretty good on the helmet because it's easier to hit a couple clicks that to use one hand to press and hold ( while moving ) for a couple seconds. Of course this depends on how you use your helmet lamp. I turn mine off if I'm going slow or on a stretch of trail without too many turns so the less time I spend with one hand on my helmet, the better. In the long run though it really doesn't matter to me as I have both types and can adapt to either without too much fuss. ( I should note here that some press and hold's are longer than others. Some take as long as three seconds. That's a long time with one hand on the helmet if you're moving. )


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

@Cat-man-do: it sounds like something like remote of Magichine would suite you https://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/l...mote-control-alternatives-eagle-f3-remote.jpg.
In my opinion it could be way smaller, but of course, nowadays when we have bars full of shifters and remotes it might be hard to find a place for it. It would be nice to have remote like this, but on the other hand it is just another thing that can fail.


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## TRAILOUP (Feb 16, 2015)

Hello sorry for my english,
My wish is to be able to customize in my home my lamp. With three or four color LED pre assembled unit and more lens kit 10 ° 15 ° 25 ° 30 ° 45 ° ...
as we can do our projector is our wish.
Good idea?


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

I'll throw one in the mix, most of which has already been said, how about:
- 10 step driver but 2 modes (High and Low). Click to toggle between high and low. 
- while on, press and hold to turn off
- while off, press and hold to enter strobe mode. 
- just slightly larger body with deeper fins and slightly larger inside diameter (at least 21mm top to bottom, help for DIY who want to replace the driver)

- And for the DIY crowd, sell just the body (no hole for cable, no hole in center of LED plate area ), front cover, back cover (with no hole), O-rings for front and back cover, optic gasket, cable gland, and screws.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Fourtrax said:


> I'll throw one in the mix, most of which has already been said, how about:
> - 10 step driver but 2 modes (High and Low). Click to toggle between high and low.


People argue about the number of modes a lot. How about a 5 mode driver, but it will automagically step through any modes that are the same level?
So you can have 1/3/5/7/10 
or 1/5/5/5/10 = 1/5/10
or 5/5/5/5/10 = 5/10


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Fourtrax said:


> I'll throw one in the mix, most of which has already been said, how about:
> - 10 step driver but 2 modes (High and Low). Click to toggle between high and low.
> - while on, press and hold to turn off
> - while off, press and hold to enter strobe mode.


Brilliant, and not for YD only! I'd highly appreciate such modes on my road bike lights, as switching them to avoid blinding of oncoming drivers is really inconvenient & slow currently. Often, I don't even use the button, and just cover the light by my palm because of that...


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

-Archie- said:


> Brilliant, and not for YD only! I'd highly appreciate such modes on my road bike lights, as switching them to avoid blinding of oncoming drivers is really inconvenient & slow currently. Often, I don't even use the button, and just cover the light by my palm because of that...


You should try to get your hands on a Philips Saferide instead with a proper half light beam.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Appel said:


> You should try to get your hands on a Philips Saferide instead with a proper half light beam.


No, thanks. Too weak for my needs and use cases...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Snakes said:


> @Cat-man-do: it sounds like something like remote of Magichine would suite you https://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/l...mote-control-alternatives-eagle-f3-remote.jpg.
> In my opinion it could be way smaller, but of course, nowadays when we have bars full of shifters and remotes it might be hard to find a place for it. It would be nice to have remote like this, but on the other hand it is just another thing that can fail.


I like remotes but truthfully most of the remotes I've seen ( wired or wireless ) always seem to leave much to be desired. The Gloworm remote is nice because it is small but the wire needs to be longer if you use wider bars. I like the idea of a wireless Bluetooth remote but many of the one's I've seen are quite big. If they're too big it really becomes non-functional if you can't mount it near enough to the grips. The purpose of a remote is to make changing modes quick and easy without removing your hands from the bars. The MS remote takes up too much room IMO. Even if it didn't I really don't like H-L-H+L mode of the new MS's.

About your last comment: Yes, I agree. It is another thing that can fail. Not to mention I'm thinking there might be a delay when using wireless remotes. Currently I am testing a Bike Horn that uses a wireless remote. More about that later when I get a chance to play with it.

Anyway, getting back to bike remotes and a remote upgrade for the Yinding; Absolutely, I would be all for a remote version as long as there is still a version without remote. Just keep in mind; Any remote coming from the Chinese is likely to look like the ( rather large ) Magicshine ( round ) version. Personally I'd rather see something more akin to the Gloworm remote.

Changing subjects....Oh, almost forgot....One thing I'd really like to see changed on the Yinding is the flash mode. Most Chinese lamps seem to have a disco like strobe mode. Okay, nice that it's press and hold to activate but the flash mode needs to be slower and the output on flash should be less, maybe ~120 lumen.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

I assume by "Ultimate Yinding" we are setting parameters for a new product. Not simply customization for our little click. If they adopted many of our suggestions, they could have a stellar product (or line of a few products) that would seriously challenge the big boys. I'd bet many retailers would be clamouring to sell them.

Most of what has been discussed is really just software in the microcontroller on the driver board. Ten step, mode order, off not in mode cycle, etc are very low cost to implement. They might need a microcontroller with more ram to fit all we want in it, but again, that's just a few pennies difference in manufacturing cost.

While we're taking about a programmable interface, it should have memory. When you turn it back on, it should be at the same brightness/position in the mode cycle, as when you turned it off.

Not that I'm a big user of flash mode, but I'd like to be able to set the two levels for the flash -- not just Off, and High. For example the ability to set flash to 10%, 50%, or whatever combination you wanted. With that, I could take the blinky off my bars, and use the YD both day and night.

A second group of programmable modes akin to Glowworm would be another thought. In my opinion when on the road I want H->M->L so when I encounter an oncoming biker/pedestrian/driver, I can dim my lights. But on the trail, I want L->M->H so that I can increase the output when things become more challenging. With two mode groupings it would be easy to switch between them when riding the road to the trail, and from the tail back home.

All of that would supercharge a V2 Yinding staying with the same body, and just upgrading the microcontroller.

On to more complex changes:

Change the silicone boot on the button, so it's easier to press.

Possibly different lenses. Maybe one of those zebra striped oval pattern flood lenses, plus a narrow spot beam. That effectively give you the near/far lighting that seems like it's becoming a trend. I suspect that's a good mix for commuters who only want a single light.

A remote would be next on my list. Wired like the Nitenumen BC-A2 would be acceptable. Wireless would be better, and I suspect cheaper to implement. All this thing has to do is feed a momentary contact pulse into the same pin as the back button. (Yes I would want both the back button and the remote.) The remote button should be small enough that we can easily mount within a thumb's reach of the grip, and powered by inexpensive, easy to find 2032 batteries.

Since you can buy a remote transmitter and receiver retail for under $8, it should not be expensive to add the feature. The previous link is overkill, because all you really need is these less than $3 parts (retail cost). It might require a two inch rat-tail of wire hanging out the cable glands hole to act as an antenna.

If we were to suggest body changes, then an overhanging lip on the front bezel, something like the UniqueFire ME-12.

Here's a totally weird idea that would actually take some engineering to do it right. A scalloped, tubercles like leading edge on that hood, would create vortexes of air across the surface, and significantly improve heat dissipation. It would also create a totally unique look. The idea of a modified air flow for more efficient cooling would certainly stand out in advertising copy.

Internally, upgrade the driver board to LED board wires with silicone coated 20 AWG. Also change the power connection wire to 20 AWG. Sure, the average dude wouldn't know the difference, but light geeks would salivate and talk up the product.

I suppose a copper based LED board would be too much to ask for. And a better grade of thermal paste.

I've seen silicone thermal pad - heat transfer material. Would a bit of it between the driver board and the back of the case add an additional avenue of cooling?

I ran across a unique quick release mounting idea for the Mobious camera. It used neodymium magnets to hold the camera to the bar mount and/or helmet mount. I can envision that as a secure, but very quick release mounting system for small lights like these.

With at least some of the above on Yinding 2-up version II and Cat's suggested 3-up, and they would have a very unique product line. None of these are very expensive changes. I know a few dollars makes a difference in the number of sales. But positive reviews have a big impact too.


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## upstateSC-rider (Dec 25, 2003)

I'd be happy with them including the O-ring to mount the damn thing.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

It means you can cycle back to low for climbing and high for speed, etc.
The current 3-mode driver is too much of a PITA to bother.

The lights I build have a click to go up a level and a press to go down. I often drop down and up on long adventure races etc, but don't need to go fully off (which takes a longer press). I need all-night burn times.



Cat-man-do said:


> Huh?....You're going to have to explain that. Not having "Off" in the cycle of modes, how does that have any significant effect on battery runtime?
> 
> I do understand though the preference for not wanting "off" in the cycle of modes. For lamps that are multi-purpose ( bars or helmet ) the press and hold off is likely better. On the other hand having off in the cycle of modes works pretty good on the helmet because it's easier to hit a couple clicks that to use one hand to press and hold ( while moving ) for a couple seconds. Of course this depends on how you use your helmet lamp. I turn mine off if I'm going slow or on a stretch of trail without too many turns so the less time I spend with one hand on my helmet, the better. In the long run though it really doesn't matter to me as I have both types and can adapt to either without too much fuss. ( I should note here that some press and hold's are longer than others. Some take as long as three seconds. That's a long time with one hand on the helmet if you're moving. )


----------



## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Ian_C said:


> I assume by "Ultimate Yinding" we are setting parameters for a new product. Not simply customization for our little click.


IHMO, the "second step" should be a minor & cheap modification of existing light, not requesting of completely different one. The "first step" (XM-L to XM-L2 update and NW option) went relatively smoothly, but even such simple change has caused some problems with implementation. Asking for "too much" is more risky, and more likely to be rejected by the factory...


----------



## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

I've received my light today. When I see it I am always amused how small and light it is, simply unbelievable. Delivery took 12 days to Europe with NL post, quite fast.



upstateSC-rider said:


> I'd be happy with them including the O-ring to mount the damn thing.


GearBest is selling them separately, they should make some kind of warning to add them to cart, on the page of light only option (if there is not already).


----------



## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

I'm curious, where are you guys getting the NW conversion stuff? Is it pretty fool proof if you can solder?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Here is the finned mount in place:




It may mount better with the GoPro slots forward.


----------



## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Looks great! :thumbsup: Black anodizing would be even better...


----------



## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

znomit said:


> People argue about the number of modes a lot. How about a 5 mode driver, but it will automagically step through any modes that are the same level?
> So you can have 1/3/5/7/10
> or 1/5/5/5/10 = 1/5/10
> or 5/5/5/5/10 = 5/10


THIS!
I would love to have 1/10 mode

+memory
+long press off and long press blink mode when off. 
Talking about qualty driver not that KD2 cheapo.
That's all Yinding needs.

But YD factory should evolve and start to use XPLs in YDs and create new 3xXPL light in similar design.


----------



## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

The Mobydrv driver from DrJones on BLF has a feature where you can select number of modes up to 7. Memory for last mode, click up, press down, long press off.
Many strobe options with a hidden strobe mode.

The lFlex from Taskflex is similar but more reliable (made in usa) but will not fit.



bhocewar said:


> THIS!
> I would love to have 1/10 mode
> 
> +memory
> ...


----------



## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

-Archie- said:


> Looks great! :thumbsup: Black anodizing would be even better...


Unfortunately, the local anodizing companies generally have a $60 minimum charge. In the case of possibly a 12 piece batch, would folks be willing to add $5 to the piece price for anodizing? My guess is no.


----------



## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

Ofroad'bent said:


> The lFlex from Taskflex is similar but more reliable (made in usa) but will not fit.


Hence my request for a slightly larger internal body diameter. Would love to fit an LFlex or a DualFlex in there!


----------



## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Ofroad'bent said:


> It means you can cycle back to low for climbing and high for speed, etc.
> The current 3-mode driver is too much of a PITA to bother.
> 
> The lights I build have a click to go up a level and a press to go down. I often drop down and up on long adventure races etc, but don't need to go fully off (which takes a longer press). I need all-night burn times.


Okay, I think I know what you are talking about now. You're talking about the drivers that use the "click for Up"~"press/hold for down" type UI. One of my earlier lamps used that type of UI and I absolutely hated it. I don't mind Press/hold for one mode but having to press/hold to access all the lower modes ( in this case 4 of 5 modes ) is a PITA. That lamp also had a two mode menu and like you said it worked fine with just two modes. Hey, to each their own preference! I just like the "loop type" UI's better because short clicks are just easier as long as you're not using more than 3 modes.

Anyway, for "All Night burn times" the 10-level sub menu used on the KD2's allow you to program any mode you want. If you need one super low mode you can have it. Two quick clicks can't take more time than a single "press and hold". ( *Note; I say that because on the lamp I had the press/hold seemed to take forever. Maybe the ones you have are faster.)

BTW, I like the gopro mount. If a tri-Yinding ever is made it will need a higher mount so as not to hit the front of the stem.


----------



## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Here is the finned mount in place:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Where did you get that?? My new Super 2R has a GoPro mount, and I'm constantly having to take the mount completely off the helmet to put my light mount on in its place. PITA Not to mention, it's a matter of time before I misplace/lose the thing.

Did you have to do any major modifications to add that, or just remove the screws that hold the plastic one that it comes with and screw that on?

HOW DO I GET ONE???


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> HOW DO I GET ONE???


Vancbiker can comment since he made it but the finned mount is a one-off creation. 
If more people are interested then he might make a run of them. Look back in this thread.

This version is available and is what I use on my Yinding. Just drill a hole in it, remove the old plastic mount and bolt the go-pro one on. You will need a different screw.
GoPro adapters for bike lights


----------



## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Fourtrax said:


> Vancbiker can comment since he made it but the finned mount is a one-off creation.
> If more people are interested then he might make a run of them. Look back in this thread.
> 
> This version is available and is what I use on my Yinding. Just drill a hole in it, remove the old plastic mount and bolt the go-pro one on. You will need a different screw.
> ...


Thanks for linking that! I will likely order a couple of the ABS plastic ones, which should work fine. I'll still need to find the right screw, which I assume will need to be longer, and also the connecting bolt to attach the light and its mount to the GoPro mount, but surely I can find one of those somewhere.

I'm glad I stumbled onto this today...that will make things a LOT easier.


----------



## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> I'll still need to find the right screw, which I assume will need to be longer, and also the connecting bolt to attach the light and its mount to the GoPro mount, but surely I can find one of those somewhere.


I think the typical standard screw is an M4 (metric) and likely available at your local hardware store (ie. Lowes has them in the US).

For the attachment screws, here's a link I bought from last year: Long Plastic Knob Thumb Screw Cap Bolt Adjust Pivot for GoPro HD Hero 1 2 3 3 | eBay . A cheaper Chinese link: Long Plastic Knob Thumb Screw Cap Bolt Adjust Pivot for GoPro HD Hero 3 2 1 | eBay

-Garry


----------



## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

garrybunk said:


> I think the typical standard screw is an M4 (metric) and likely available at your local hardware store (ie. Lowes has them in the US).
> 
> For the attachment screws, here's a link I bought from last year: Long Plastic Knob Thumb Screw Cap Bolt Adjust Pivot for GoPro HD Hero 1 2 3 3 | eBay . A cheaper Chinese link: Long Plastic Knob Thumb Screw Cap Bolt Adjust Pivot for GoPro HD Hero 3 2 1 | eBay
> 
> -Garry


That's perfect. Thanks Garry! I'm all for simplicity, and this will be one less thing to have to worry about switching over all the time.


----------



## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Vancbiker said:


> Unfortunately, the local anodizing companies generally have a $60 minimum charge. In the case of possibly a 12 piece batch, would folks be willing to add $5 to the piece price for anodizing? My guess is no.


Yes, probably you're right.


----------



## TRAILOUP (Feb 16, 2015)

hi,
I want to buy lens for my Yinding.
What do you recommend?
thank you


----------



## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

I use 25 degree lenses from leddna
25 Degree 21mm Reflector Collimator LED Lens For Cree XML XM-L LED - LEDDNA

I also saw that they have start to sell elliptical lenses:
Reflector / Collimator Lens - CREE - LEDDNA

Anyone tried the elliptical ones?


----------



## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I have some elliptical lenses from KD & LED Supply, but have yet to test them and add them into my optics testing thread on BLF. Sorry.

Thanks for posting that they are available from LED-DNA though!

EDIT - Looks like the ones I have from LED Supply are 44 x 12 pattern: 10003-L25 Carclo Lens - 20mm Elliptical Spot LED Optic

-Garry


----------



## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

GJHS said:


> Yep, will do, tomorrow. Hopefully we can meet up to compare your 3C with the second batch. It sounds as if you have a good one.
> 
> Once the Spring Festival is done, everyone will get their LED plates.


Hey...I haven't been on here on about 6 weeks. Took 4 weeks to get my 1st batch Yinding NW, but it is definitely 5C instead of 3C. I couldn't find any update on how we get our 3C LED boards. Any updates?

I dissected the light. But most have been said here. A few things that I haven't seen mentioned...:
1.) Lenses are concaved. My original Yinding had lenses that were flat/flush on the front. The one I got was conical in shape. 
2.) Driver is held down by allen-head screws instead of phillips screws
3.) LED board wires are 22GA silicone (original was not silicone, and thinner than 22GA)
4.) Light fades from mode to mode, which is sort of cool, but makes each setting change less noticeable
5.) Steps are 25/50/100. Stock, it draws .45A / .90A / 1.80A

I've done the sense resistor mod so it now outputs .6A/1.2A/2.4A, and added/spread out the thermal paste.

Jeremy


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Jeremy, can you elaborate what was sense resistor mod? Have you actualy measured output to the leds or it was the draw from the batteries as in 5.)?


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

@neons97
1.)Lenses are concaved.

The concave lenses are very similar to the ones delivered with the gemini duo. I should say they spread the light even more even than the flat/flush ones...


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

neons97 said:


> Hey...I haven't been on here on about 6 weeks. Took 4 weeks to get my 1st batch Yinding NW, but it is definitely 5C instead of 3C. I couldn't find any update on how we get our 3C LED boards. Any updates?
> 
> I dissected the light. But most have been said here. A few things that I haven't seen mentioned...:
> 1.) Lenses are concaved. My original Yinding had lenses that were flat/flush on the front. The one I got was conical in shape.
> ...


Obviously you have never owned an original YD


----------



## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Fourtrax said:


> Vancbiker can comment since he made it but the finned mount is a one-off creation.
> If more people are interested then he might make a run of them. Look back in this thread.
> 
> This version is available and is what I use on my Yinding. Just drill a hole in it, remove the old plastic mount and bolt the go-pro one on. You will need a different screw.
> ...


EDIT: Apparently, I should have paid more attention. The email link is RIGHT AT THE BOTTOM of the link. Duh. Read below for amusement only. 

I went to the Link you gave me to try to place an order a minute ago for 2 of the ABS plastic mounts, but the only thing I see is that the originator's name is Kevin. He apparently accepts PayPal, but I don't have any idea how to email him a request for an invoice. 

Am I missing something? I have a few GoPro style bolts on the way from Ebay now, so I guess I need to track down a mount for the light, or I'll just have two nice extra bolts. 

Thanks for your help...or anyone else's, with tracking down the mounts.


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

bhocewar said:


> Obviously you have never owned an original YD


I believe I have an "original" Yinding, but the batch of lower quality ones. Not a fake/cloned Yinding (which is a clone of the Gemini Duo). Based on all research, it was an original.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> EDIT: Apparently, I should have paid more attention. The email link is RIGHT AT THE BOTTOM of the link. Duh. Read below for amusement only.
> 
> I went to the Link you gave me to try to place an order a minute ago for 2 of the ABS plastic mounts, but the only thing I see is that the originator's name is Kevin. He apparently accepts PayPal, but I don't have any idea how to email him a request for an invoice.


PM works for registered MTBR forum users too.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Kevin, you really need to start a new thread about your finned adapters, and mention them on your site as well. I understand this is only a tentative option as of yet but you could note that.

Thanks again for the great service!


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Hi Andy. I planned to post about them once I decided whether or not to run a batch. Beside yourself, I only got a couple other folks to show interest. I'll probably go ahead and run a batch. Have to order material and a couple new cutters and then spend some time in the shop. A couple of weeks and I should have them ready.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Vancbiker said:


> Hi Andy. I planned to post about them once I decided whether or not to run a batch. Beside yourself, I only got a couple other folks to show interest. I'll probably go ahead and run a batch. Have to order material and a couple new cutters and then spend some time in the shop. A couple of weeks and I should have them ready.


Will these have thin fins with flat bottoms?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

> Will these have thin fins with flat bottoms?


Thin fins with round bottoms are better, but require special tooling!:smilewinkgrin:


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Vancbiker said:


> Thin fins with round bottoms are better, but require special tooling!:smilewinkgrin:


Do you make them for the XT40?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

GJHS said:


> Do you make them for the XT40?


I've not had my hands on an XT40 yet. I got info back from an XT40 user that said that a couple mm needed to be trimmed off one end of my standard adapter to get a good fit. He did it easily with a file. If you would like me to mod for you, I would need you to send me a picture of the mounting area with the dimensions sketched in.


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

So whats the latest on these lights from Gearbest, if i place a order for neutral white will I get a 3C or are they still being rectified?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ivan87 said:


> So whats the latest on these lights from Gearbest, if i place a order for neutral white will I get a 3C or are they still being rectified?


They should be fixed according to my sample of the 2nd batch. I'm still waiting for May to get back and continue on with the new and old requests.


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

GJHS said:


> They should be fixed according to my sample of the 2nd batch. I'm still waiting for May to get back and continue on with the new and old requests.


Has she mentioned what will be achievable and whats out of the question?


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## Adam A (Dec 18, 2014)

Thanks for all the leg work on this light build/buy GJHS! I purchased the light and battery combo in the cool white the other day and used the coupon code (Yinding) which saved me $8. I was a little confused with the shipping options, I just took the regular free shipping. How big of a mistake was this? Also considering ordering a headlamp as well. The Solarstorm XT30 or XT40 seem like a good option for this. How is the quality of these lights vs. the Yinding, and will the light be the same tint?


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

If you got the normal cool white Yinding, the XT40 will match perfect. That is the combo I run and it is GREAT. Hard to imagein a better combo for this pricepoint around $80. Get the XT40, it is a fantastic light. A little big for the helmet, but very worth it.


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## chadmart (Nov 30, 2010)

I ordered a Yinding from Gearbest the other day (Yinding 900Lm CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery Neutral White US Plug )-47.17 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com). I was happy to get the shipping confirmation and then saddened by the long shipping time! I hadn't realized that the place was in the Netherlands, and I would have to deal with international shipping! We are so used to Amazon and getting packages pretty much overnight in most cases, that we tend to forget that not every company has distribution warehouses all over the planet! Looking forward to getting my light... in an estimated 10-25 days!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

chadmart said:


> I ordered a Yinding from Gearbest the other day (Yinding 900Lm CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery Neutral White US Plug )-47.17 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com). I was happy to get the shipping confirmation and then saddened by the long shipping time! I hadn't realized that the place was in the Netherlands, . . . Looking forward to getting my light... in an estimated 10-25 days!


Ahem . . . GearBest is in China. They use Netherlands Post to ship many items, but especially those orders with "dangerous" items such as Lithium batteries. NL Post hasn't been too bad, but tracking can suck until it hits the US.

-Garry


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

Gearbest is not in the Netherlands. They are in China.

There has been a big issue with shipping lithium ion batteries out of China over the last couple of years. Most of the postal carriers will not take parcils with batteries in them, but Netherlands Post will do it.

The Dutch have a colonial / trading history with South East Asia. That probably explains Netherlands Post maintaining ties/facilites in the area.

My shipmant took about three weeks from GearBest to Western Canada.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Both mine ordered on Jan 15th arrived today Feb 27th. There was a delay due to the tint issue. Anyway it seems I got the right 3C LEDs.


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## chadmart (Nov 30, 2010)

Ah. Thanks for the clarification. Good to know.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Tracking in Europe works quite fine from the moment it hits the transiting country (Netherlands, Switzerland, Sweden, ... ). I guess it could be the same for US.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Funny story: my friend ordered two flashlights, one from GearBest and the other through Amazon from a Texas store. The GearBest light arrived in NY one week earlier than the Texas light. This is the price we pay for buying on the internet.


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## chadmart (Nov 30, 2010)

It depends on who is selling it through Amazon, and who distributes it. I try to look for "Prime" listings as I get free 2-day shipping, and I try to get things that are only distributed by Amazon, no matter who the seller is. I can't always meet these criteria, but when I do, I get my shipment the next day much of the time. I made an order for a water bottle and pedals yesterday on Amazon. I will have it in hand tomorrow.


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## bianchifan (Feb 13, 2010)

*Alternative lenses*

Two days ago I had a dance at the local custom s office, I was invited for violation of the product safety act... " Goods which doesn't fullfill the requirements of the articles 9 and 10 of the European Economic Community's foundation contract...????

Fasttech sent a handhul of lenses without bill but as gift

Nevertheless, two sets are usable due to only minor differences..
Knowing the original optics working perfectly for me I made a short test with the alternatives yet.
Q&D, freehand, camera automatics, the macros bust be focussed manually.



One set is 25 deg lenses , the other is 10 deg 
Let's start with 25 deg, it's slithly longer, maybe 0.5 mm from behind to support.


I checked a mixed setup, original lens (15 deg) left and 25 deg on the right.
The support does not seat, it is hanging in the air.
 

The output of the 25 is a little more diffuse combined with slightly coloured rings



The 10 deg lens has identical outer dimensions but the support varies. Although it doesn't seat perfectly the distance is smaller, the difference to the origin about 0.3 mm.


First I choosed same setup, mixed with 10 deg on the right.
  

The beam is much more defined on the right, more narrow with sharper border




Last but not least I checked a two-10-deg setup


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

@Adam A Really any of the lights are good. Yinding is smaller/lighter, while xt40 is brighter. The quality is better on the yinding. Shipping options are confusing, but just be patient with any option you chose. 20 Days is the norm with the free shipping option to get to me on the east coast. Any orders with batteries get free trackin I believe.

I've waited 5 days for an amazon prime order of a 80 page book to travel 200 miles. Considering that gearbest's shipping is free and it's traveling from china, shipping is very good.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

*Up side down *

Ok. My NW Yindings finally arrived. The tint is the same as my NW KD2 and NW XT40. So that is all fine. 
But one mount was broken and one "back plate" was turned up side down.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

lol appel at least now you can differentiate between them. But seriously do you think its worth rotating? I would just leave it. Contact May im sure she'll send you a new mount and get your order fixed.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*Additional alternative lens options*

Hey Bianchifan, looks like we were doing the same thing last night. These optics come from "Action-LED-Lights" and fit the Gemini Duo, Yinding, and Gloworm XS/X2 V3.1 (maybe others?).

1) Gloworm XS spot optic: 10% power increase on my lux meter (bounce test) with just the lens change! I just got my Yinding Friday so I haven't field tested any of these optics in the Yinding yet but the XS optic did provide noticeably more throw in my Duo so I'm anticipating similar results with the Yinding.

2) Duo flood optic: Symetrical flood pattern. Dims light intensity quite a bit since it covers a much larger area but widens the beam and is great if you like to see whats around your front wheel.








3) Gloworm XS eliptical/flood optic: Widens the beam side to side only, minimizing over all flood area to only what you need and lessening light intensity loss. Works great in my XS and should give simialr results in the Yinding 








Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Is the switch self contaied in the Yinding's back plate? Thought the silicone boot just covered a little button on the adjacent circuit board. Appel, can your "up side down" YD turn on?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Mole, I'd love to see some beamshots! Which flood optic works out better for real world use?
-Garry


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

bianchifan said:


> Knowing the original optics working perfectly for me I made a short test with the alternatives yet.


Thanks! Very interesting and informative beamshots!



> The support does not seat, it is hanging in the air.


But you've seems to be able to assemble the light anyway? What is that green O-ring? According to picture, original gasket was used for new lens, not that green ring?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Appel said:


> Ok. My NW Yindings finally arrived. The tint is the same as my NW KD2 and NW XT40. So that is all fine.
> But one mount was broken and one "back plate" was turned up side down.


They're overloaded by orders from MTBR members, probably... :lol:


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

MRMOLE said:


> These optics come from "Action-LED-Lights" and fit the Gemini Duo, Yinding, and Gloworm XS/X2 V3.1 (maybe others?


I'm waiting for your beamshots! The combination of Gloworm XS spot + Gloworm XS eliptical optic seems quite promising IMHO...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Appel said:


> Ok. My NW Yindings finally arrived. The tint is the same as my NW KD2 and NW XT40. So that is all fine.
> But one mount was broken and one "back plate" was turned up side down.


This is interesting. If the back plates can be turned upside down it means if you like it that way you have a choice. As for the mount; These types of mounts do occasional break. I highly suggest keeping a couple spares on hand. You can buy spares from either Action LED or from the original seller. Yep, spare mounts and O-rings are "Must haves".


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

andychrist said:


> Is the switch self contaied in the Yinding's back plate?


Sort of.



> Thought the silicone boot just covered a little button on the adjacent circuit board.


Exactly. But that board is mounted on the back plate - so essentially it's one part.

BTW, that circuit board is not symmetrical: one side have a room for the power cable - so I'm surprised they've managed to assemble it upside down at all. Unfortunately, to put it correctly you'll have to completely disassemble the light - but it's recommended for any Chinese light anyway...


----------



## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Yinding/Yinding optics








Yinding/dimpled flood optics








Yinding/Gloworm eliptical optics








Gloworm eliptical/Gloworm eliptical optics








I've only had the Yinding since last Friday and the Gloworm eliptical since last Tuesday so the only actual field testing I've done is 1 ride with the standard optics (which actually seemed pretty good). Rain is expected here for the next couple of days but after that I'll try to get out and get same actual ride time on some of the different options.
Mole


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Thanks for all the comparison beam shots guys. I just got my Yinding in on Friday. I got the cool white. I can't believe how tiny and lightweight it is, and how much light it puts out. 

However, it get hot. REAL hot. I just had it on for no more than 30 seconds in my basement comparing it to my Sogn 900 and seeing how the color temp matched up with a BikeRay Speed II, and the thing was heating up quickly. Is that normal? I guess if it's dispersing heat correctly, then it's normal for housing to get hot, correct? I know from reading, one of the things with this light was that the thermal properties had been improved. How would I be able to check that? Is it even worth checking? 

I wouldn't know the first thing about taking it apart to check anything without messing something up and it probably never working again. The old, "Hey look, I have some parts left over" after re-assembly trick is always a risk. Never good. If I have a "how to" video to watch, and I record my de-assembly on my phone, I have a fighting chance of getting it back together correctly. I learned that trick over the years. 

Is it normal for that sucker to get hot like that with no air moving over it? It took me almost a month to get it, and I'd hate to take it on a ride and have it fry if there's something simple I could have done to add some thermal paste or something first as a preventative measure. Any advice from you tinkerers? I'll need the remedial version please.


----------



## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Getting hot is a good sign, indicating the heat is being pulled away from the LEDs. So yes, it needs air movement across it when it's on high (well, at least on high). There's a very good chance thermal paste is already in place. I don't think anyone has reported not having thermal paste or any other serious issues that need addressed. Most Chinese lights do require "routine disassembly" upon receiving to inspect such things, but these Yindings seem to be a step above (maybe a few steps above) the average Chinese lights. I wouldn't be concerned unless you find it is still burning hot even with air flow.

-Garry


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> ....However, it get hot. REAL hot. I just had it on for no more than 30 seconds in my basement comparing it to my Sogn 900 and seeing how the color temp matched up with a BikeRay Speed II, and the thing was heating up quickly.


This is what has sparked interest from some forum users to use the GoPro adapters I make since it adds some mass and area to help dissipate heat. I just got material in and am waiting on a couple new cutters to run a batch of adapters with additional cooling fins. About a week and a half until I should be done with them.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

garrybunk said:


> Getting hot is a good sign, indicating the heat is being pulled away from the LEDs. So yes, it needs air movement across it when it's on high (well, at least on high). There's a very good chance thermal paste is already in place. I don't think anyone has reported not having thermal paste or any other serious issues that need addressed. Most Chinese lights do require "routine disassembly" upon receiving to inspect such things, but these Yindings seem to be a step above (maybe a few steps above) the average Chinese lights. I wouldn't be concerned unless you find it is still burning hot even with air flow.
> 
> -Garry


Thanks Gary. Whew...I was afraid I was going to get, "You really need to take it apart and have a look at it to make sure the flux capacitor is wired correctly, and the whatchammacallit is butted up against the thingamajig." 

I'll monitor it on my next ride, which may be awhile with this weather we're having. :madmax:


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

To Vancbiker....

Aha. That makes sense. I am not a big fan of the rubber band bar mount. I have already been devising a way to make a mount out of an old bike reflector like some of the pics I've seen here in the forum. That light is so small and lightweight, it shouldn't be an issue at all. I look forward to seeing them. 

Yinding's cooling wings


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

MRMOLE said:


> Yinding/Yinding optics
> View attachment 968853
> 
> 
> ...


So, just to make sure I have it right, in the Yinding/Gloworm Elliptical optics, you are using the Action LED lens on only one LED, and the stock on other. Is that correct? I like how that looks. It seems to preserve most of the intensity, while spreading it out quite a bit laterally. I think that would compliment my Speed II helmet light well, because it has a very bright, tight spot.

I'm interested to see how you think it looks in action. Thanks for taking the time to post those pictures.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

The same happened to me and happens every time I got a package from Eastern Overseas 



bianchifan said:


> Two days ago I had a dance at the local custom s office, I was invited for violation of the product safety act... " Goods which doesn't fullfill the requirements of the articles 9 and 10 of the European Economic Community's foundation contract...????


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

Cat-man-do said:


> This is interesting. If the back plates can be turned upside down it means if you like it that way you have a choice. As for the mount; These types of mounts do occasional break. I highly suggest keeping a couple spares on hand. You can buy spares from either Action LED or from the original seller. Yep, spare mounts and O-rings are "Must haves".


Regarding the broken mount. Even my Gemini Olympia, with a similar mount, came with a broken mount. So this is not only a cheapo chinese problem.








And regarding spare mounts I used my slightly modified Supernova Bar Bracket. It works really well and feels bullet proof.








Lupine also got a nice spare mount:
Bike24 - Lupine Piko O-Ring Mount

And of course the hope mount is a nice one as well.
Hope Universal Handlebar Mount | Chain Reaction Cycles

Only problem is that the mounts cost more than the light itself 

And the thing with the up side down driver. It is an easy fix. But it is also (as mentioned earlier) a nice feature for left handed guys


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Appel said:


> And regarding spare mounts I used my slightly modified Supernova Bar Bracket. It works really well and feels bullet proof.


Is it on sale separately somewhere?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Appel said:


> Lupine also got a nice spare mount:
> Bike24 - Lupine Piko O-Ring Mount
> -snip-
> Only problem is that the mounts cost more than the light itself


BTW, if you like metal mount, DealExtreme offering is a bit cheaper:
Aluminum Alloy Bike Headlamp Mount Holder w/ Silicone Rings - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

Looks not as elegant as Lupine, but definitely sturdier than default plastic one...


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> To Vancbiker....
> 
> Aha. That makes sense. I am not a big fan of the rubber band bar mount. I have already been devising a way to make a mount out of an old bike reflector like some of the pics I've seen here in the forum. That light is so small and lightweight, it shouldn't be an issue at all. I look forward to seeing them.
> 
> Yinding's cooling wings


Post 1238 of this thread has a picture kindly posted by Ofroad'bent showing the prototype I made for him.

Original/Real Yinding YD 2xU2 found - Page 50- Mtbr.com

The production version will look very similar. The fins will be slightly deeper and wider to gain a bit more surface area and airflow through them.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok May is back and asking about the driver swap on the Yinding. Does anyone have a specific driver or can point to a specific driver that they want or would work? 

She is in the process of getting the 3C LED plates.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

AFAIK, "KD2" driver should be directly usable giving 10 level of brightness. I would rethink about max. output and use apropriate sense resistor. Also thermal protection should be rethinked at what temperature to kick in and yellow/red low voltage signaling, too.

The only unknow thing is driver's efficiency. I know only HKJ, member of BLF, who is well equiped to do detailed test. Ordinary multimeters are not suitable because of PWM used. Only highest level would be accurate. Maybe someone on this forum (Archie?) has some better equipment.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

-Archie- said:


> BTW, if you like metal mount, DealExtreme offering is a bit cheaper:
> Aluminum Alloy Bike Headlamp Mount Holder w/ Silicone Rings - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
> 
> Looks not as elegant as Lupine, but definitely sturdier than default plastic one...


Ah!...nice find.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

ledoman said:


> AFAIK, "KD2" driver should be directly usable giving 10 level of brightness. I would rethink about max. output and use apropriate sense resistor. Also thermal protection should be rethinked at what temperature to kick in and yellow/red low voltage signaling, too.
> 
> The only unknow thing is driver's efficiency. I know only HKJ, member of BLF, who is well equiped to do detailed test. Ordinary multimeters are not suitable because of PWM used. Only highest level would be accurate. Maybe someone on this forum (Archie?) has some better equipment.


I agree with ledoman on this. Not sure what output current is on the current driver but I'd like something close to 2.5A. ( through both emitters ). The 10-level sub-menu would be a nice thing to have on the Yinding and would make owning or buying one a slam-dunk.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

GJHS said:


> Ok May is back and asking about the driver swap on the Yinding. Does anyone have a specific driver or can point to a specific driver that they want or would work?
> 
> She is in the process of getting the 3C LED plates.


This is the one I installed in my Yinding with very little modification.
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023801

Cranked up to 2.5A it would definitely need the finned aluminum mount for extra heat sinking.

This Mobydrv would be the most versatile, DrJones' Custom Firmware Drivers

but is a custom job not wholesale, and would only drive the LEDs in parallel at 1.5A and 4.2v. It would be nearly as bright as the stock one, but with less heat issues.

I will probably make one up just for fun if I can get a Yinding without electronics.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

GJHS said:


> She is in the process of getting the 3C LED plates.


What is the plan here with the LED plates. Will there be LED plates for sale or will there only be LED plates for them who got 5C (?) Yindings?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> So, just to make sure I have it right, in the Yinding/Gloworm Elliptical optics, you are using the Action LED lens on only one LED, and the stock on other. Is that correct? I like how that looks. It seems to preserve most of the intensity, while spreading it out quite a bit laterally. I think that would compliment my Speed II helmet light well, because it has a very bright, tight spot.
> 
> I'm interested to see how you think it looks in action. Thanks for taking the time to post those pictures.


Yes, Yinding/Gloworm elliptical = 1 Yinding optic and 1 Gloworm elliptical optic.

I saw in one of your other posts that you were concerned about the light getting hot so I got out my infrared thermometer and did a comparison between the Yinding and my Gloworm XS. At 4 min.with no airflow the body of the gloworm registered 141 F, the Yinding 143 F. I don't know if that makes you feel any better but my experience is that all small powerful lights are going to run hot. I live in the desert and while I activate the overheat protection on my lights once in a while I've never burned out an emitter.

Mole


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Appel said:


> What is the plan here with the LED plates. Will there be LED plates for sale or will there only be LED plates for them who got 5C (?) Yindings?


The 5c peeps will be sent the replacement free and as requested, I'm trying to work on getting them for sale as well.


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## eTrex_FSR (Dec 18, 2009)

*AW: Original/Real Yinding YD 2xU2 found*



GJHS said:


> The 5c peeps will be sent the replacement free and as requested, I'm trying to work on getting them for sale as well.


Will they be sent automatically or do we have to tell May?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

eTrex_FSR said:


> Will they be sent automatically or do we have to tell May?


More Info to follow, I'm not sure how she plans to do it.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

Re the driver: I guess the question for May to ask is does Yinding buy a completed driver from some other manufacturer, or do they have one built to their specifications? I'm guessing the latter, especially since Yindign is silkscreened on the board.

The things we want out of a driver are all software running on the microcontroller. I'm guessing they may use something like a one time programmable PIC. If they are reprogrammable microcontroller, the software can be changed in circuit, for the ones already in stock.

If we're tying to guide them how to build a better Yinding, that would be the suggestion to make.

It's well established that we want to be able to set each of the three modes to one of ten levels. Take Off out of the cycle (L->M->H->L) and make Off a Long Press. Change Flash to an Extra Long Press. Definitely keep the nice fade between levels. Basically the same UI as the KD driver.

It's possible that the extra features we might want would require a chip with more eprom memory - the next model up in the line.

Extras:
1. Add a second set of programmable modes (I like L->M->H on the trail, but H->M->L on the road. It would be nice to easily switch between them. That would also put the light close to on par with the Gloworm).

2. Programmable levels for the flash (Ability to set it to the standard Off+100% or 10%+50%, etc)

3. More than one flash pattern (Slow, and somthing like the Mobi driver's oooOoOoooooOoOooo)

If either the minimum requirement, or minimum plus some extras can be programmed on to Yinding's boards, then it is stil fully Yinding's product. Swapping in somebody else's driver board might be a fast change, but in the long run more expensive than updating the software.

How many of us are going to re-buy the light if they just do a board swap, that we could do ourselves? I might buy a second, but several of you already have two or three. Aren't we trying to suggest ways to improve the product to attract new buyers? The original Yinding was THE hot product of 2013 (along with the SolarStorm X2). With the upgraded emitters, and revamped software, it could be the hot producto of 2015.

If I recall correctly, should they choose to just swap in the KD driver, they need to trim/replace the silicone part of the button.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I wrote GB to see if they could sell a YinDIY kit without electronics, but the answer after a few "we will check" messages was "No, we do not sell Yinding." Presumably it's just "we have no idea what you mean, but will not sell the body alone".


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## Memristor (Dec 18, 2014)

Yesterday my 2nd batch Yinding arrived.
Perfect Tint and clear brighter than the one from the first batch.
Thanks again GJHS


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

Don't know if someone posted picture on this before. But I tried the fit of the "KD2" driver in the Yinding.

The "KD2" driver:
















Fits perfectly in the Yinding house (Yinding driver is the green one).








Even the button works allright without modifications. Maybe one could remove 1-2 mm on the KD2 button.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Did you try to asemble the light?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Appel said:


> Don't know if someone posted picture on this before. But I tried the fit of the "KD2" driver in the Yinding.
> 
> The "KD2" driver:
> View attachment 969656
> ...


I found the switch button a bit fiddly to grind down, as it spins around.
I trimmed a bit off the silicone nib in the switch, reassembled the light and have been using it for a couple of weeks.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok long read here haven't found what im looking for. 

Wanting to get one of these for helmet light, but not sure what this light allows for optics change. 

Is there reflectors/lens' that fit it easily to make it more spotty for helmet use?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

tigris99 said:


> Ok long read here haven't found what im looking for.
> 
> Wanting to get one of these for helmet light, but not sure what this light allows for optics change.
> 
> Is there reflectors/lens' that fit it easily to make it more spotty for helmet use?


Did you look at posts #1280, 1284, & 1292? I see MrMole did not post beamshots with the Gemini XS Spot optic (which is probably more suited for you).

-Garry


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

MRMOLE said:


> Hey Bianchifan, looks like we were doing the same thing last night. These optics come from "Action-LED-Lights" and fit the Gemini Duo, Yinding, and Gloworm XS/X2 V3.1 (maybe others?).
> 
> 1) Gloworm XS spot optic: 10% power increase on my lux meter (bounce test) with just the lens change! I just got my Yinding Friday so I haven't field tested any of these optics in the Yinding yet but the XS optic did provide noticeably more throw in my Duo so I'm anticipating similar results with the Yinding.
> 
> ...


Hi Mr Mole...

I'm interested in a few things please sir:

I guess question 1A is if you ever tried the Action LED spot lens in the Yinding or not.

1. Why no picture of the beam pattern in example 1?

2. Do you think that spot lens will fit the Yinding OK without any modification?

3. Is this the correct lens? The site has a few based on the Gloworm version.

Action-LED-Lights ? Gloworm XS/X2v3.1 Spot Optic

I would be interested in whether or not replacing both lenses in the Yinding with these spot lenses would yield a nice pattern and intensity for a helmet light. If so, the weight of that Yinding would be very alluring for a helmet light.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

I think this is specifically what he used to improve the intensity 10% on the Gloworm by replacing the diffuse lens so that both are spot optics.

Action-LED-Lights ? Gloworm XS/X2v3.1 Spot Optic

Maybe he'll respond to let us know his thoughts. The big thing for me is if it's just plug and play to replace the lens. No custom fabrication of spacers, etc. That's above my pay grade.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Yes, that's the optic I was referring to and it is a drop in with no modifications. I had the optics in the Yinding to do the bounce test where I got the 10% lux increase but as of yet have not got to ride with that combo. I just finished putting the spot optics back in and my intention is to go out tonight for a test. I'll let you know what I think.
Mole


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

MRMOLE said:


> Yes, that's the optic I was referring to and it is a drop in with no modifications. I had the optics in the Yinding to do the bounce test where I got the 10% lux increase but as of yet have not got to ride with that combo. I just finished putting the spot optics back in and my intention is to go out tonight for a test. I'll let you know what I think.
> Mole


Awesome. Just to make sure, it looks like ActionLED has two lenses. I think I linked the one for the X2 Version 3.1 in my other post. I guess we would need to know which one it is exactly.

Action-LED-Lights ? Gloworm X2 Spot Optic

or

Action-LED-Lights ? Gloworm XS/X2v3.1 Spot Optic

Looking forward to the review. When it warms up a little (supposed to dip down to 10 deg F tonight), I'll try to get some "real life" beam shots of the Yinding versus Xeccon Sogn 900 for comparison.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

The XS/X2v3.1 is the one that fits the Yinding. Previous versions of the Gloworms X2 used shorter optics and would probably require a shim/o-ring to fit and since this was a performance upgrade for gloworm these older optics my not probide any increased performance over the stock Yinding optic.
I live in Arizona and the temp. was still above 60 F when I got home from my nightride yesterday. Running around with the Yinding on high, it was not hotter than the Gemini Duo I took along for comparison (The Duo works fine for me in 100 F temps). Of course this doesn't mean the Yinding will react to higher temps. the same but I think it's a good indication it might. Temperatures at night should be in the high 70's to low 80's as soon as next week so I'll keep you posted on how the Yinding works as temps. rise.
Mole


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## Adam A (Dec 18, 2014)

Appel said:


> Regarding the broken mount. Even my Gemini Olympia, with a similar mount, came with a broken mount. So this is not only a cheapo chinese problem.
> View attachment 969103
> 
> 
> ...


Does the Hope mount require any alteration, or does it work pretty easily?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok sweet, that's simple enough!!! Got options for optics, $15 for a pair of spot and should (if im on the right track) make a nice helmet light. Thnx


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

tigris99 said:


> Ok sweet, that's simple enough!!! Got options for optics, $15 for a pair of spot and should (if im on the right track) make a nice helmet light. Thnx


You can also buy lenses from leddna.com for 0.40$ / lens. The ones I have from leddna fits perfectly, but I use the 25 degree ones.
Reflector / Collimator Lens - LEDDNA


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

Adam A said:


> Does the Hope mount require any alteration, or does it work pretty easily?


It almost works out of the box. It comes with a M5 (upper one) screw so you need to buy a M4 screw (lower one). Otherwise it just fits.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Appel said:


> You can also buy lenses from leddna.com for 0.40$ / lens. The ones I have from leddna fits perfectly, but I use the 25 degree ones.
> Reflector / Collimator Lens - LEDDNA


Thanks for the post and the link! Would you mind adding the correct link for the 25 degree that you know works?

So you're using the 25 degree on your Yinding? Are you using one or two? How does that compare with the stock lenses in terms of the beam pattern? Any detailed feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Maybe one stock and one 10 degree would be a good combination? At .40 with free shipping, even if they don't show up until late April, there's not much to lose. I guess I could order two 25's and two 10's for all of $1.60, and experiment. Not much to lose with that gamble. Are they pretty easy to install them without bunging anything up??

Also...as lightweight as the Yinding is, what benefit do you feel the Hope mount provides over a standard rubber band mount for the one on my bars? My Sogn 900 has a big bar mount like that, and while I think it would take bizarre circumstances for it to happen, landing on that thing on even a routine little crash would not be pleasant. Unless you're needing to get it up over a race number, I can't think of a reason a rubber band wouldn't hold that thing steady.

My wife thinks I am absolutely nuts about this LED thing. Just last night I was shining one off the deck to show her how bright they were, and we had four deer lying down in the leaves back behind our house. I told her..."See, they're good for seeing nature too."


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Noticed that on LED-DNA elipticals come in choices of both beam angle width and height. Is not visible in caption of product description, there is an ellipsis hiding the info. But there are three skus for the lenses: 10ºx45º, 20ºx60º, and 30ºx60º. What is the default beam angle on the Yinding, 15º? Wonder what the specs are for that Gloworm eliptical.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Don't forget LEDSupply as a US source of Carclo optics too with a pretty good selection. Not sure how they compare for "fit" compared to the LED DNA optics.

Oh, and NWA - you may wish to look at my Optics testing thread with beamshots to see what beam patterns are like from 10 degree to 25 degree, etc. . . I've only tested the LED-DNA optics for now, but have a selection of Carclo's on hand (though I can't test those for quite awhile yet).

-Garry


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

A small off topic: Lens Degree: 30°x60° means 30 vertical and 60 horizontal angle by these?


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

garrybunk said:


> Don't forget LEDSupply as a US source of Carclo optics too with a pretty good selection. Not sure how they compare for "fit" compared to the LED DNA optics.
> 
> Oh, and NWA - you may wish to look at my Optics testing thread with beamshots to see what beam patterns are like from 10 degree to 25 degree, etc. . . I've only tested the LED-DNA optics for now, but have a selection of Carclo's on hand (though I can't test those for quite awhile yet).
> 
> -Garry


Thanks Garry. I checked that out, and it was interesting. Unless I'm missing something, the mouse over showed that the 10 degree actually had a wider and more diffuse beam pattern than the 25 degree. Even more strange, the 10 degree had a noticeable "wide spot" just in front of the light head.

BTW...that "mouse over" was OUTSTANDING. I've never seen that done, but it gives a REALLY clear comparison.

There's something going on from a physics standpoint. The 25 degree is by far the winner if you were to try to use that as a helmet light. Do you think it was a secondary reflection coming off the opposite side when it was that narrow of a reflector with the 10 degree?

Based on that test alone, I don't see any benefit of going to the 10 degree. It was less bright, less focused intensity, and very minimal gain on throw. You agree?

I would love to see a comparison of the 25 degree to the stock lens. Because if it's not any more narrow, then it's starting to look like the Yinding may not be an optimal option for the helmet as hoped. From what I can see, a good SS X2 provides a better combination of a solid intense spot with decent throw, and some beam spread. You agree? I had hope to accomplish that with the Yinding, but it's starting to look like the design prohibits that for some reason.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I don't trust my 10 degree beamshot too much as something looks weird about it. I should redo it. The 10 degree one is the one most people really love in actual use.

Yes, mouse-overs are a fantastic feature over at BLF!

I hear you on the SS X2 (no comment from any experience on my end though), but it would be REALLY tough to find a well driven X2 with reasonable heatsinking. Otherwise you need to do some serious modding! (By the way, this user is modding my Uniquefire HD-016.)

-Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

MK96 said:


> A small off topic: Lens Degree: 30°x60° means 30 vertical and 60 horizontal angle by these?


Well, it could be 60° vertical and 30° horizontal if you mounted it that way  .

-Garry


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

It is clear now for me what the talk is about, thanks Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

What is the default beam angle on the Yinding said:


> I'm pretty sure your correct. As far as I can tell the Yinding optic is identical (physical apperence and side by side comparison riding impressions) to what Gemini uses in their Duo, which is listed @ 15 degree. Gloworms specs. are a mystery to me at this point, but next time I communicate with Jim @ Action I'll see if he knows.
> Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Hey that makes for alot cheaper optics, but r they the same as the optics from action, as in clarity and more efficient than the stock yinding? Definitely love to be able to have a selection as looks like im going 2 yindings and changing optics to suite beam pattern I need.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*2 x Gloworm spot optic riding impressions*


First off, if your looking for a narrow focus bouncing ball on the horizon type beam pattern, these optics are not for you. A little extra power and throw distance is all your going to gain with this optic modification. For those of you who plan to use their Yinding as a helmet light the extra throw will be a benefit but as a bar light modification, considering the cost of the optics compared to the cost of the light-head I think I would buy a extra light head and a y-cable and get a 100% power increase for $30 instead of 10% for $15.
Mole


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Wow! I can just imagine 2 Yindings (4 emitters) on the bars slightly angled to each side! That's a good idea! Maybe even put tight optics in on the inner emitters and wider "flood" optics on the outer emitters! Would really suck down one battery pack though.

-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Only thing better than a Yinding is two Yindings. You could mod 'em out with elipticals of your choice in one and spots in the other, go either bar/bar or bar/helmet.

Haven't gotten all the requisite supplies in hand yet to mod any of my own bike lamps, but in the mean time have a YD and a KD MJ-880 clone on the bars of my commuter. YD I point down a bit, KD aim a little higher. Set up is fine the way it is, but am calculating could be tweaked with a pair of 10ºx45º ellipticals for the Yinding and 10º to 20º optics in the KD, if the proper size are to be found. Reasoning, YD not the brighter lamp; if going wider on the beam, then height should be trimmed or else dispersed light might be too faint. Spot on KD takes care of distance, optics help blend in better with the YD. IOW, be [more] like having High and Low beams in the two separate light heads. Figure 10º spots in the Blue Yinding I have on order will be sufficient sur la tête once the trails thaw. Just in case my calcs are off though, selected coupla 20ºx60º ellipticals as well. Better safe etc.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Xeccon X12 Two








Yinding








I know very little about cameras, and I shot these with a Canon S110 on Auto everything from a distance of 14 feet. I shined them onto my home theater screen, which is highly reflective, but it's completely dark in there so I figured what the heck.

I didn't do this to compare intensity, and without knowing what to do to the camera, it dramatically shuttered it down anyway. I still have white spots if I close my eyes...probably not a great idea in hindsight.

I did it just to show the difference in spot size, which it does pretty well. What it did NOT do well is show how much spread the Yinding has vs. the S12 Two. The Yinding lights up the whole front wall, while the S12 doesn't even light the whole screen!

What's interesting is...just looking at it with the naked eye, it's hard to even make out a defined spot with the Yinding. Yet on camera...it shows up. That's why it's off center high...I couldn't even tell that in the room! It looks more like a "wall of light," which is what it's designed to do.

I'll get my brother to help me with some trail shots and better comparison shots when I get a chance. The trails here should be dried out by mid next week. He has all the fancy Nikon cameras and lenses and knows what he's doing, so I'll see if we can get some good meaningful comparison shots from all four of my current lights.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> Wow! I can just imagine 2 Yindings (4 emitters) on the bars slightly angled to each side! That's a good idea! Maybe even put tight optics in on the inner emitters and wider "flood" optics on the outer emitters! Would really suck down one battery pack though.
> 
> -Garry


Well that's kinda how the Jexree Bat and the MJ-816 do it. Only problem with those lamps, the beams all aimed the same height. Diffusers on the MagicShine have wide enough spread, the two Mickey Mouse ears don't need to be angled apart any but should have been pointed down a bit from the center spot. Again, Low Beams versus High. New MJ Eagle 600 apparently solves this... for only $240...4x Cool White XM-L2... hello?



NWAtrailyguy said:


> I did it just to show the difference in spot size, which it does pretty well. What it did NOT do well is show how much spread the Yinding has vs. the S12 Two. The Yinding lights up the whole front wall, while the S12 doesn't even light the whole screen!
> 
> What's interesting is...just looking at it with the naked eye, it's hard to even make out a defined spot with the Yinding. Yet on camera...it shows up. That's why it's off center high...I couldn't even tell that in the room! It looks more like a "wall of light," which is what it's designed to do.


Yeah that was my experience too trying to "capture" the Yinding. Only other bike lamp in my arsenal down here in the city with perhaps more spread is the Nightfighter BT40S, which is 4x NW XP-G2. My spot reflector lamps all behave similar to your S12.

Would be interested to see comparison shots of Yinding modified with spots and also then ellipticals.

Thanks NWAtrailyguy!


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> Wow! I can just imagine 2 Yindings (4 emitters) on the bars slightly angled to each side! That's a good idea! Maybe even put tight optics in on the inner emitters and wider "flood" optics on the outer emitters! Would really suck down one battery pack though.
> 
> -Garry











This the set-up I've been running the last couple of days (Duo/Ding).
I use the Duo so I have something consistent to compare the Yindind modifications to. It's quite a bit of light with both on hi and yes it would suck down a battery. When I got my Duo I did some runtime tests with a 5200 4 cell and it ran about 3 hrs on hi so 1.5 hrs on that size battery for 2 light-heads if the Yinding is about as efficient as the duo (which it may not be).
Mole


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Quit tempting me with that photo!  

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> Only thing better than a Yinding is two Yindings. You could mod 'em out with elipticals of your choice in one and spots in the other, go either bar/bar or bar/helmet.


If I get out tonight I'm going go with spot/elliptical flood Gloworm optic set-up in the Yinding. I've only tried the elliptical flood in my XS except for wall shots so far and I'm looking forward to seeing the results.
Mole


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> Quit tempting me with that photo!
> 
> -Garry


No problem!


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

andychrist said:


> Well that's kinda how the Jexree Bat and the MJ-816 do it. Only problem with those lamps, the beams all aimed the same height. Diffusers on the MagicShine have wide enough spread, the two Mickey Mouse ears don't need to be angled apart any but should have been pointed down a bit from the center spot. Again, Low Beams versus High. New MJ Eagle 600 apparently solves this... for only $240...4x Cool White XM-L2... hello?
> 
> Yeah that was my experience too trying to "capture" the Yinding. Only other bike lamp in my arsenal down here in the city with perhaps more spread is the Nightfighter BT40S, which is 4x NW XP-G2. My spot reflector lamps all behave similar to your S12.
> 
> ...


I'm very confident I couldn't accomplish anything better than Gary did in his tests with regard to the different degree of spots in his linked post above. Something was weird about that 10 degree picture. The light was far more diffuse than the 25 degree shot.

Regardless of that, I still doubt a 5 degree difference would transform it into a good helmet light if it does indeed come with a 15 degree stock lens. I was going to order up some .40 specials, but it's probably not worth messing with for me. I'd probably end up jacking up the light somehow and instead of going from 15 degrees to 10, I would go from 15 degrees to a door stop.

Ellipticals are a different story. I like the look and idea of the wider lateral beam spread for a bar light, but I haven't tried it. On the trails, what I've found is beam width is less critical than intensity. Singletrack just ain't that wide!

I can't imagine needing anymore spread than the Yinding. I was pretty well blown away on that single short ride I took at how well it blazes a path. But intensity wise, the S12 looked at least twice as bright on the trail at about 20 feet out in front of me, which makes me think it would take more than a 5 degree lens change to make it a good helmet option. I was hoping that maybe it came stock with a 25, and a move to a 10 would be significant. That doesn't appear to be the case.

I'd LOVE to be proven wrong though, and have someone post a glowing review about the 10 degree lens and using the Yinding on their melon.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

I think the Yinding/Duo original 15degree is too spotty. Don't really understad why you want a spot. 
It just blinds you!
It is better with enough light "everywhere". Your eyes will adopt to the brightest spot in the light beam. So if you have a too spotty, too bright light you only see whats in the spot and nothing outside of it. I think it is better with an enough bright flood light, without a "spot". It makes you see more.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Appel said:


> I think the Yinding/Duo original 15degree is too spotty. Don't really understad why you want a spot.
> It just blinds you!
> It is better with enough light "everywhere". Your eyes will adopt to the brightest spot in the light beam. So if you have a too spotty, too bright light you only see whats in the spot and nothing outside of it. I think it is better with an enough bright flood light, without a "spot". It makes you see more.


Hmm...different strokes for different folks I guess, but I certainly see what you're saying. In a perfect world, there would be a helmet light that has great throw, great intensity, a wide beam, and is as light as the Yinding. Then a bar light wouldn't even be necessary. I guess if you had a stout enough neck, you could put a 7 or 9 LED light up there and probably accomplish that...dunno.

I think the Yinding is a great flood, and then my single reflector S12 Two on the helmet gives a great combination of throw, intensity, and depth perception. I've seen pictures on the board of guys who use the multiple LED lights on their bars that just light up the countryside, but that's at the expense of more weight, and/or less run time. There's always a trade off to consider...

Maybe the Yinding would be better as a bar light with a 45 degree lens on it...I haven't tried it, so I can't say.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Hey guys...just curious. The interest in this light was re-ignited over the improved thermal properties, the availability in natural color temp, and it being sold by a more reputable vendor.

What is it that has some of you saying that finding a decent Solar Storm X2 is impossible now, and that they're all junk? Is it the electronics, heat dissipation, or what's the concern? If anyone has some information or a link to one that they've had good luck with, I'd love to hear about it. Thanks guys!


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## find_bruce (May 8, 2011)

Yes on most fronts - missing the slug that the board sits on so poor thermal connection to housing, LEDs are blue/green, electronics do not deliver the current, but give the thermal problems, that may be a good thing.

I have pressed a copper cap into my housing & will see if that fixes the thermal issue. XM-L2 in 3C tint are readily available


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*Gloworm spot/Elliptical flood combo*


As a bar light this is the set-up I'd probably run most of the time. This elliptical/flood optic is very effective (Good job Gloworm!).The spot optic helps you retain most of the lights throw and the flood optic widens the beam with smooth light (no hot spots). Of course increasing the light area coverage dims the intensity some but the effect is far less than you'd get with a conventional symetrical wide angle optic of equal beam width. Tonight I get to do a 50 mi. Fatbike ride so I'l try out 2 x elliptical/flood, it should work OK but I expect to lose a lot of the light throw. We'll see.

Thermal update: Did 30 mi. last night (lights on continuously) with no problems (65 F - 75 F temps.). Right now I'm doing a run-time test on the Yinding (set on high w/fan) and after more than an hour the light-head registered 121 F on my infrared thermometer. I'm not sure if that's good or bad but when I do the same test on the Duo I'll compare the results.

Mole


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Appel said:


> I think the Yinding/Duo original 15degree is too spotty. Don't really understad why you want a spot.
> It just blinds you!
> It is better with enough light "everywhere". Your eyes will adopt to the brightest spot in the light beam. So if you have a too spotty, too bright light you only see whats in the spot and nothing outside of it. I think it is better with an enough bright flood light, without a "spot". It makes you see more.


IMO it's just a matter of preference. I don't like a floodlight for either for the bars or helmet. A tight spot on the helmet and a defined spot with some spill for the bars. I find lighting up the area to the side of the bike just creates weird shadows that are eye catching and a distraction.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Vancbiker said:


> IMO it's just a matter of preference. I don't like a floodlight for either for the bars or helmet. A tight spot on the helmet and a defined spot with some spill for the bars. I find lighting up the area to the side of the bike just creates weird shadows that are eye catching and a distraction.


I'm with you Vanc. I would even take that a step further and say that bright reflection off trees actually hinders my ability to see things in front of me at times.

When I first started into this night riding gig, I saw the pictures of these nice beam spread elliptical lenses on some threads, and thought that would be what I needed. In practice, I found that it doesn't take much width at all to see everything I need to see for single track riding. The "tunnel" view gives it more of a secluded feeling in some respects. I guess it will just be a little longer before I see the deer coming from the side that's going to run in front of me! (Which happens frequently)

Oh, and by the way, when do you anticipate the aluminum finned GoPro style mounts being ready? I think that will be a good option for mounting the Yinding...that sucker gets hot.

BTW...here are some better pictures of the final assembly of your mounts, the S12 Two, and my Bell Super 2R. It came out NICE, and I love it. I wear full face, because I want to keep my chicklets. I'm sure I'll risk them when it gets up above 95 and pull the guard off.

Mounting the light like this is awesome. I was having to pull the mount off, and putting the round rubber band mount on each time...PITA. Problem solved now thanks to Vancbiker (Kevin). Got the screw off Ebay for under $2, but those with a GoPro are set.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

find_bruce said:


> Yes on most fronts - missing the slug that the board sits on so poor thermal connection to housing, LEDs are blue/green, electronics do not deliver the current, but give the thermal problems, that may be a good thing.
> 
> I have pressed a copper cap into my housing & will see if that fixes the thermal issue. XM-L2 in 3C tint are readily available


Hi Bruce...just to clarify, you may want to include a reference to the SS X2's out there currently. As it is in this thread, it reads like you may be referencing the Yinding. As I understand it, the guys who are "in the know" are suggesting that this Yinding has good thermal properties. (At least I hope that hasn't changed) 

For those who have a previous Yinding, I am assuming they have held up under significant run times, and over some span of time correct? I'm really considering ordering another Yinding in Natural white and finding a Nat. white helmet light to pair it with so I can experiment with CW vs. NW, and have a spare set for in town guests that want to ride.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Vancbiker said:


> IMO it's just a matter of preference. I don't like a floodlight for either for the bars or helmet. A tight spot on the helmet and a defined spot with some spill for the bars. I find lighting up the area to the side of the bike just creates weird shadows that are eye catching and a distraction.


When I tested my Gen 2 Yinding last summer, I found High too harsh because of the glare and bounce back off of the foliage. Too much side illumination would make it worse.


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## find_bruce (May 8, 2011)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> Hi Bruce...just to clarify, you may want to include a reference to the SS X2's out there currently. As it is in this thread, it reads like you may be referencing the Yinding.


Direct answer to your direct question on the "solarstorm X2" & yes I agree if we want to chat about that light, we should head over to a different thread, eg this one..

Back on topic it seems you have the common misapprehension that there is a yinding or solarstorm factory that is making good and bad lights. They are not even a brand As I understand it, these housings are sold to a whole bunch of different people who add in the leds, drivers etc & distribute them. The various websites do not build the lights or even source them - they are just a retail website with associated warehousing & packaging. Wholesaler figures they can save a few bucks by changing supplier, supplier figures they can save a few bucks by leaving out bits or substituting cheaper components - you still buy from the same website but you are not getting the same product.

The whole point of this thread is that GJHS found someone able to sell a well built version. Hopefully they continue to do so.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> ....Oh, and by the way, when do you anticipate the aluminum finned GoPro style mounts being ready? I think that will be a good option for mounting the Yinding...that sucker gets hot.


The finned mounts are through the first CNC operation. I'm still waiting on the slotting cutter to cut the slots for the fins. Scheduled to arrive Wednesday, so should have the first batch done by Friday.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

find_bruce said:


> Direct answer to your direct question on the "solarstorm X2" & yes I agree if we want to chat about that light, we should head over to a different thread, eg this one..
> 
> Back on topic it seems you have the common misapprehension that there is a yinding or solarstorm factory that is making good and bad lights. They are not even a brand As I understand it, these housings are sold to a whole bunch of different people who add in the leds, drivers etc & distribute them. The various websites do not build the lights or even source them - they are just a retail website with associated warehousing & packaging. Wholesaler figures they can save a few bucks by changing supplier, supplier figures they can save a few bucks by leaving out bits or substituting cheaper components - you still buy from the same website but you are not getting the same product.
> 
> The whole point of this thread is that GJHS found someone able to sell a well built version. Hopefully they continue to do so.


Sorry man...I probably shouldn't have gotten off topic. But thanks for the response.

Yeah, I get it that there are a lot of different people selling the Solar Storm type light with either that name, or another name on the same style body. What's inside is what matters most, and that's why like you, I'm hoping the Yinding's are well built and will hold up over time. As I understand it, it is a Gemini duo copy, and Gearbest is probably just one of many selling similar looking lights with varying build quality.

What's puzzling is...I don't guess a "name brand" Solar Storm X2 ever existed right? Most of the Chinese lights are "knock offs" of a name brand, but from what I can tell that light was actually a Chinese "original." It makes sense...add fins for extra surface area for cooling.

Sorry, a little off topic. Thanks for your reply.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> ....What's puzzling is...I don't guess a "name brand" Solar Storm X2 ever existed right? Most of the Chinese lights are "knock offs" of a name brand, but from what I can tell that light was actually a Chinese "original." It makes sense...add fins for extra surface area for cooling.
> 
> Sorry, a little off topic. Thanks for your reply.


As far as I know the flat top ( and finned ) lamps were not clones but were originally named, "Solarstorm's". Not long after they got very popular and began to get cloned. Some of the early clones were pretty good but not long after the quality began to drop, at least for a while ( depending on where you bought from )

I think the worst clones were mostly sold on e-bay. The one I originally bought ( I got a good clone ) came from the Chinese website , "Manafont" which has since been bought out by D/X. D/X though sells many versions of the SS clones and some of those are not using the better drivers. When buying these types of lights you try to get the newer LED's ( if possible ) and try to select the ones with the highest possible output ( although some sites list output current, not all do. ) If in doubt you sent an email and ask the question of the seller BEFORE buying.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Not to mention, but the SolarStorms X3 and XT40 that GJHS arranged for us through GearBest seem pretty solid, and are available in both Neutral and Cool White. Either might pair well with the Yinding, which has bit better flood but not as defined a hot spot as the X3. If you're not into strengthening your neck muscles, guess you could run one of the SSs on the bars along side the Yinding, keep them both from getting lonely.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*2 x Golworm elliptical/flood optic impressions*


The double flood set-up worked a lot better than I thought it would. I figured it would kill the throw which it did, but not to the extent I anticipated. I was on the fatbike so my cruise speeds were limited to about 15 mph but I was nowhere near out running the light. I asked Jim @ Actioc about the specs. of the elliptical optic and his estimate was 20/10 degree.

Yindind vs Duo run-time test (3 yr. old 5200 Gemini batt.): Yinding - 2:40, Duo - 2:27. I used to get right at 3 hrs. with this batt. and the Duo so with a fresh 5200 batt. the YD would get an estimated 3:15.

Yinding vs Duo thermal tests: While I was doing the run-time (with fan) tests @ 1 hour I measured the light body temp (infrared thermometer) of each light-head which were an identical 120 F. Next I ran both the lights on high with no airflow, measuring the light-head body temp every min. The Duo activated the thermal protection @ 4:30 with a body temp of 151 F. The Yinding registered similar temps @ each min. interval until I shut it down @ 5 min (160 F) since I not sure it has thermal protection.
It's a small light and it's going to run hot, but it doesn't appear to be any worse than the Duo it was cloined from.

Mole


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks for the feedback Mole! No pics of the flood setup I presume? 

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> Thanks for the feedback Mole! No pics of the flood setup I presume?
> 
> -Garry


Unfortunately I have a new camera that I'm not used to yet and the beam shots I've taken end up making the light look twice as powerful as it really is. Until I can figure how to take an accurate night shot I choose not to post them. Please be patient, I'm working on it.
Mole


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Please use this "mtbr" settings
ISO200 
EXP. 1,6s 
APERTURE F4.0 
W/B Daylight


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

I need some help here...So I tried powering 2 Yindings with one power pack using a Y splitter cable, and the lights started pulsing, anyone know why? It does that in all power levers to both lights!

It is not from lack of power or resistance from cables either cuz it happens even in low mode which is only pulling like what ~1.5A combine. I am using Samsungs 2600mah in 2s2p with Solarstorm case, tried hardwiring the batteries directly to the cables and same results :S

PWM frequency I am guessing??


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

epic-gamer said:


> I need some help here...So I tried powering 2 Yindings with one power pack using a Y splitter cable, and the lights started pulsing, anyone know why? It does that in all power levers to both lights!
> 
> It is not from lack of power or resistance from cables either cuz it happens even in low mode which is only pulling like what ~1.5A combine. I am using Samsungs 2600mah in 2s2p with Solarstorm case, tried hardwiring the batteries directly to the cables and same results :S
> 
> PWM frequency I am guessing??


It could be that running both lamps from one voltage source is causing a "near" current shortage". For someone using a typical 4-cell battery pack, all 4-cell battery packs are set-up with a single PCB designed to limit output current draw. This varies depending on the brand/capacity of the cells and the number of cells used.

In your case though you are using a four cell holder so I'm not sure how that plays in. If you are using protected cells that could also be an issue. Anyway, if the current draw is being limited to a lamp ( because of the dual power draw and PCB protection limit ) this could possibly cause the driver to clip the current modulation circuit on the PWM output. This theoretically could make the lamps appear to visibly pulsate but personally I've never heard of this kind of thing happening before. Could also be something having to do with riding in cold weather if in fact that is what you were doing. (?)

Going forward if you really plan on running two lamps from one voltage source I would highly recommend using a good 6-cell battery pack. If that's not doable than make sure you are using unprotected batteries for your holder and just keep an eye out to make sure they don't overly discharge. Hope this helps.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

MRMOLE said:


> The double flood set-up worked a lot better than I thought it would. I figured it would kill the throw which it did, but not to the extent I anticipated. I was on the fatbike so my cruise speeds were limited to about 15 mph but I was nowhere near out running the light. I asked Jim @ Actioc about the specs. of the elliptical optic and his estimate was 20/10 degree.
> 
> Yindind vs Duo run-time test (3 yr. old 5200 Gemini batt.): Yinding - 2:40, Duo - 2:27. I used to get right at 3 hrs. with this batt. and the Duo so with a fresh 5200 batt. the YD would get an estimated 3:15.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the feedback! From what I can gather there are at least a few people who have had the Yinding in various previous generations and I haven't seen anyone say they burned up. Hopefully the body is getting hot due to effective dissipation and as long as we're moving, and remember to turn it down when stopped, it will hold up to those temps.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

bhocewar said:


> Please use this "mtbr" settings
> ISO200
> EXP. 1,6s
> APERTURE F4.0
> W/B Daylight


Thanks for sharing. I didn't know there was a "standard," but that makes sense so we can compare things. I plan to get out and do some comparisons with the lights I have one night this week, and this gives me something to work from.


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## epic-gamer (Aug 18, 2012)

Cat-man-do said:


> It could be that running both lamps from one voltage source is causing a "near" current shortage". For someone using a typical 4-cell battery pack, all 4-cell battery packs are.....


see here is the thing, I am using unprotected high quality cells, in 2s2p which can supply 10A safely and It pulses in any mode whenever both lights are turn on. There is no short or overdischarge in my case, plus I was just testing them in room temp. 
When connected both lights but with only one turned on, there is no pulse. As soon as both lights are on, it pulses.

This could be a problem for those who wish to run dual Yinding with a single battery pack. Something about the electrics frequency in the light is making this glitch, not only with yinding but with KD2 too. I have tried different batteries and hardwiring straight to the lights, same problems.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Odd experiences being reported above. I've run my Yinding along with other lamps from a single four cell pack and Y cable, did not experience any pulsing.

Also, when running my Yinding on High indoors without ventilation, it steps down to Low within a couple of minutes.

Received the first batch of NW with what is apparently a 5C bin or something rather than 3C so perhaps the circuit board is different from those that shipped later.

Tried to capture some outdoor beam shots comparing my [unmodded] Yindindg, SolarStorm X3, KD MJ-880 Clone, and NiteFighter. BT40S. Kinda screwed up on that last lamp, had it pointing too low down so it illuminates the foreground too intensely and leaves the horizon hanging; will have to retake that shot. Anyway, think the Yinding is fine the way it is, probably won't bother fiddling with different lenses. Prefer the tint on mine as well, 3C on all my other NW lamps looks slightly fluorescent greenish. Differences on the trail are negligeable, especially against any version of Cool Whites, which cast a relatively lifeless pallor.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157651076813781/


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Epic, but you used same Solarstorm battery case each time, did you? If so then problem is in it's electronics and probably in some capacitor. Would be interesting puting some bigger capacitor in paralell to the battery output. 

Next thing to explain this happening in any mode is PWM. Pulse of power the light is pulling from the batteries is always 100% of max. current. It is just shorter times to gets you lower modes. So pluging two lights to the battery gives you 200% pulse at it's max. Very likely battery circuit is not designed to stand that.

You could prove that connecting bare battery pack without any electronics in between. 

And BTW you have looses in the connectors too.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

I can report, after I tried to mix some aluminium parts between the 2nd gen (bad quality) Yinding and the latest NW batch, that the front and the back are not exchangable. Ok, it works but the fit is not perfect. The walls in the 2nd gen housing are thinner than in the last batch. Don't know if it means any differens in heat transfer though...


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

andychrist said:


> Also, when running my Yinding on High indoors without ventilation, it steps down to Low within a couple of minutes.


That would be cool if even the newest Gearbest models shipping now have that feature to protect them from cookage. I had a SS X2 copy that switched down to low when it got hot. Only problem is, it stayed there...permanently. :madman:


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

May has asked Yinding about the rear light option, the button and driver. They answered yes about rear light option if we can guarantee 100. The other two they don't think will be good so if we can guarantee sales I think we can persuade them. The only one they're against is a 3 LED option.

So what do you think?


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

I think if there is ever going to be a replacement of NW led board for those who went in first and got screwed?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I'd be in for a rear light red Yinding. I would suggest more than 1 flashing mode if it's a dedicated rear light. I'd suggest 1 narrow optic and1 elliptical or super-wide.

Any traction on the idea of a light body without electronics for DIY stuff?



GJHS said:


> May has asked Yinding about the rear light option, the button and driver. They answered yes about rear light option if we can guarantee 100. The other two they don't think will be good so if we can guarantee sales I think we can persuade them. The only one they're against is a 3 LED option.
> 
> So what do you think?


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Duplicate see below


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS said:


> May has asked Yinding about the rear light option, the button and driver. They answered yes about rear light option if we can guarantee 100. The other two they don't think will be good so if we can guarantee sales I think we can persuade them. The only one they're against is a 3 LED option.
> 
> So what do you think?


Unless it were modified so that its emitters flashed in some different kind of pattern and consumed less power, I don't think the Yinding would currently be the best candidate for a rear light. At around the same price or less there are optimized designs out there already such as the MagicShine MJ-818, Cygolite Hotshot and Amazon.com : Mudder® USB Rechargeable 6-Mode Red Light COB LED Bike Taillight Safety Warning Rear Lamp : Sports & Outdoors.

Inherent conflict with the Yinding as tail light: Not designed to mount to narrow tubes, consumes almost as much juice on Flash as on High, lenses small and closely spaced. Though if GearBest offered it with red LEDs in matching red anodize I might not be able to resist...

Tell May the problem with Yinding control button can be ameliorated without a major redesign. Right now there is a gap of a millimeter or two between the silicone boot and the internal stub. Just filling that space with a little lozenge would make the lamp a lot more easy to operate, cost to manufacturer would be negligible.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Deleted Post


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

epic-gamer said:


> see here is the thing, I am using unprotected high quality cells, in 2s2p which can supply 10A safely and It pulses in any mode whenever both lights are turn on. There is no short or overdischarge in my case, plus I was just testing them in room temp.
> When connected both lights but with only one turned on, there is no pulse. As soon as both lights are on, it pulses.
> 
> This could be a problem for those who wish to run dual Yinding with a single battery pack. Something about the electrics frequency in the light is making this glitch, not only with yinding but with KD2 too. I have tried different batteries and hardwiring straight to the lights, same problems.


Well this is all very strange. You mentioned using different batteries but did you try using a regular 4-cell ( soldered ) battery pack? Very odd it is that with one lamp there is no problem but with two there is pulsing.

Okay, I just did a test using a couple of my cheap lamps with Y-connector ( SSX2 and KD2 ). Much to my surprise I got some flicker with the X2 on low but nothing from the KD2. I change batteries, same thing. I replaced the X2 with another lamp and no problems with either lamp when using the Y. I figure it could possible be an issue with the drivers in the Yindings as you suspect but the only way to know for sure is if others have 2 yindings and have the same problem.

My theory is that the the driver circuit in the Yindings are allowing an AC frequency to somehow exit the lamp via the power couplings. Since the Y-connectors allow for direct connection this signal is somehow being fed back to both lamps. Could be the PWM circuits within the drivers are just poorly grounded / shielded and with both lamps doing the same thing there might be a cumulative effect. FWIW, I'm just speculating.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Will try to test with mine lights in various setups at evening. Hopefuly will have time to do this.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I agree with the different flashing patterns and power levels being desirable but a Yinding with red emitters would be in a whole different class than a Mudder or Cygolite- more like a Dinotte, daylight visible from a distance.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Ofroad'bent said:


> I agree with the different flashing patterns and power levels being desirable but a Yinding with red emitters would be in a whole different class than a Mudder or Cygolite- more like a Dinotte, daylight visible from a distance.


Yes that's certainly true. But for most of us here, night mode would be at least if not more important than day, and: we would prefer to be able to run both front and tail lights from a single battery pack, especially in a helmet situation. Unless the Yinding were bestowed a lower power option, it would require its own separate, dedicated pack for any kind of decent run time, even on Flash. Is why MagicShine's 818 package works so well for me: tail light can run all day alone on Strobe/Flash; with Y cable, supplied battery can simultaneously power a Yinding or KD run on High for a couple of hours or on Medium to Low like two or three times longer. Then at end of ride have just the one pack to recharge. Think Yinding has potential but GearBest's supplier obviously not committed to pursuing the complete solution.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

bhocewar said:


> I think if there is ever going to be a replacement of NW led board for those who went in first and got screwed?


I just rceived the replacement board last night to test and confirm color. So next week the process and shipping should start. Sorry I forgot to mention that last night.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

andychrist said:


> Yes that's certainly true. But for most of us here, night mode would be at least if not more important than day, and: we would prefer to be able to run both front and tail lights from a single battery pack, especially in a helmet situation. Unless the Yinding were bestowed a lower power option, it would require its own separate, dedicated pack for any kind of decent run time, even on Flash. Is why MagicShine's 818 package works so well for me: tail light can run all day alone on Strobe/Flash; with Y cable, supplied battery can simultaneously power a Yinding or KD run on High for a couple of hours or on Medium to Low like two or three times longer. Then at end of ride have just the one pack to recharge. Think Yinding has potential but GearBest's supplier obviously not committed to pursuing the complete solution.


I have my DIY taillights set up with a low-high flash pattern with 2 different brightnesses, one for night and one for day. If Yinding can do this it would be fine.
I agree- if it's only 1 uber-bright mode it will eat batteries and drive your friends crazy at night.

Crazy-bright little rear vent-light- Mtbr.com


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## eTrex_FSR (Dec 18, 2009)

GJHS said:


> I just rceived the replacement board last night to test and confirm color. So next week the process and shipping should start. Sorry I forgot to mention that last night.


Not sure if I missed this, but how will this work. They will sent out boards to the people of the first batch? Do we have to tell May? Or what? Hope this was not explained before.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

They may make a good tail light if done correctly. But making one so it doesn't kill pack run time they'll have to rethink things a bit. red lens or red emitter..... Plenty of led versions that will be plenty bright for a tail light and have minimal affect on run time of pack.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok so in hearing not much interest in advancing the Yinding nor a rear light option, correct?

The boards will be sent by sending your order number to May. More info when I have it.


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## BJHA (Jan 3, 2015)

I have Three Yindings and did a test with a split / Y-cable.

Lamp 1 and 2 - no pulsing
Lamp 1 and 3 - lamp 1 pulsing 
Lamp 2 and 3 - lamp 2 pulsing 

It seems that one light makes the other two pulsing or flicker if you prefer.


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## Corvette (Nov 20, 2005)

BJHA, that's quite helpful, thanks. What batteries were you using for testing?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

OK. I've made brief test and I can get pulsing/flickering with any combination of 2 Yindings, 2 KD2 or 2 880 clones. BUT it only happens with more or less weak battery pack. In my case I was using cheapo 2000mAh welded battey pack at 7.7V. Using fully charged 2S3P welded pack with no protection board and thicker wires I couldn't reproduce the flickering.
I've never experienced flickering (by my eyes) when Hi mode was used (ie. no PWM), which doesn't prove it's not there.

BJHA (and other people) try lamps 1 and 2 with strobe mode in one of them. It should emphize the flickering efect.

So the Cat's theory seems correct or the pulse (PWM) consumption with 100% spikes lowers the battery voltage on very short time and the other light gets voltage under Vf and thus becomes less bright for a moment which can be seen as flickering. Since on good powerful battery I couldn't experience flickerging I would wote for this last explanation.

Connecting two single led lights to the same pack should not show any flickering since the input voltage stays all the time over the Vf. I dare to say the flickering would be experienced only in 2 led lights given we are using lover quality or emptier 2S battery packs. Voltage drop over Y cable and aditional connectors make things even vorse. *High value capacitor at light Vcc terminals (input) would/should solve the issue*.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

*Red LED Yinding*



Ofroad'bent said:


> I have my DIY taillights set up with a low-high flash pattern with 2 different brightnesses, one for night and one for day. If Yinding can do this it would be fine.
> I agree- if it's only 1 uber-bright mode it will eat batteries and drive your friends crazy at night.
> 
> Crazy-bright little rear vent-light- Mtbr.com


Just wanted to add my thoughts on this subject: Yes, would be nice to have a very bright two emitter ( Red ) lamp but in order to do it right it would have to solve several problems. The biggest ( I think we can all agree ) is going to be the UI. I would like at least five choices of flash.

1) Slow flash ( one flash every two seconds )
2) medium flash ( one every sec. )
3) flicker flash
4)flicker-pause-flicker ( I have this on one of my torches and it is awesome )
5) steady mode

Along with that I would either want a separate button or sub-menu to vary intensity, at least five levels...super low output ( 20 lumen ) to high ( maximum output ) If the varying output only worked on steady mode ( like the Hotshot ) I could live with that.

Next problem would be the mounting solution. If you want to mount to the seat post a solution similar to what DiNotte did with their first rear lamps would be needed.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I'd buy one with red led for tail light if its not high output settings on xm-l emitters.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Quick question, do these have same connectors as magicshine cord??? I like the cord that came on mine looks the same as magic shine style.

And holy crap: Bright as hell, TINY but holy crap warms up fast. And thermal safety does work so far, cut out high quickly as I was playing with it.

Box says "natural white" having issues telling the difference, light resembles that of a halogen (similar to my work light)

Ah got securitying version via amazon if that helps anyone.

PS: further checking, its a KD 2 yinding clone... heat management is going to be interesting on this one lol. Emitter board screws in from back, gonna play with this thing but definately not one that can be "tuned up" lol. Needs bigger wire from driver to emitter, put paste on what little contact area there actually is at this point.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> ...Box says "natural white" having issues telling the difference, light resembles that of a halogen (similar to my work light)
> 
> Ah got securitying version via amazon if that helps anyone....


Link???

Kind of amazing if Neutral White (aka "natural") rather than Cool White is shipping by default now.

Did it mention Natural White anywhere in the product description or pics, tigris? Not sure which SecurityIng model that is on Amazon, so if you would be so kind... thanks!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

http://www.amazon.com/SecurityIng®-...=8-17&keywords=securitying+cree+bicycle+light

There's the link, says cool white, I dint think its neutral (based on pics posted here). Box says t6/u2 natural white.... Not sure the point behind the bs writing on the box but meh.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Amazon.com : SecurityIng® 4 Modes Waterproof 2300 Lumens XM-L U2 LED Bicycle Light Cool White Rotatable Bike Light LED Lighting Lamp with 8.4V 4400mAh Rechargeable Li-ion Battery Pack & Charger : Sports & Outdoors
> 
> There's the link, says cool white, I dint think its neutral (based on pics posted here). Box says t6/u2 natural white.... Not sure the point behind the bs writing on the box but meh.


Well that is neither neutral nor natural, and certaninly not the latest Cree, which would be the XM-L2, not an XM-L U2. But you say its light resembles that of a halogen? I wouldn't describe any of my non-Neutral Crees that way, they are all kinda bluish; only my NW Yinding with the 5C tint comes close to halogen, which I'd characterize as platinum color. Even my other NW XM-L2 and XP-G2 lamps have a slightly greenish cast. Sounds like you got real lucky (um, provided you actually _like_ halogen.) BTW where does it say cool white? Thx.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Said cool white in the condensed description. I'll have to play with it more cause its tint is odd, somewhere between the "cold" washout of cool white and my halogen work light (my work light is the ones that sit on a stand about the size of a car headlight)

Oh and I know its not L2 but I also have kd2 driver/neutral white l2 u2 on the way. This was a "if I dont like it, its amazon easy return" thing. I have reservations about such a small light where heat dissipation is concerned.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah I know you know, just the description I'm seeing on Amazon says: "Adopts the latest US Cree XM-L U2 LED," which while perhaps technically tru-ish, is kinda misleading. It's the latest XM-L U2, not the latest Cree.

Think you'll notice a difference with the NW board you have coming, should be the same 3C tint as in the new batch of Yindings and those SolarStorms from GearBest. 

Wonder when that next batch of YDs is going to ship. Ordered a blue anodize this time, still says Processing.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok Guys, you asked and after a lot of work it's here! We have the green light from Yinding to customize anything we want if we order 500. They will change the emitter, make a 3 LED version, change the button, so what do you want?

You wanted a manufacturer to listen and they're all ears. We can make this light as good as we want.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Wow! Awesome! I'd say we need a new thread on this though, or do we?

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I thought about it too. There is so much info here that can be referenced for future readers, it may be better to continue here. So it's a one stop for Yinding info.

Let's see the interest level also. Since I've been here, a year and half, people have been asking for this, so here it is!


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Think this could get real contradictory. An interface for a three emitter lamp might benefit by being different from that of dual, or a red, etc. Design by committee, and all that. Maybe you could work up a hierarchal chart, GJHS?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well hell gonna get ones that fix all the short comings ill order, let my amazon/kd2 version thing be my commuter light (old one broke anyway).





Not worried about 3rd emitter for forward, heat will be a nightmare. Unless case size is increased plenty to compensate.


Optics options (spotty head or floody bar), can buy lights prefitted either way.





RED BUTTON!!!! Omg red button please, and its for night riding doesn't need to be very bright.





More copper involved between emitters and contact with case. Faster heat is pulled from emitters the cooler hole thing will stay when left on high.





Tail light, love the casings but need to tune down the light output ALOT. Alternating flash with speed options. 





Qr mount!!! Hate the bands simply cause gotta keep track of spares if it snaps, good bye light. That's a personal thing though.



Oh and a remote(wired NOT wireless) switch option, for helmet light id love to have switch able to be clipped to pack.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

andychrist said:


> Think this could get real contradictory. An interface for a three emitter lamp might benefit by being different from that of dual, or a red, etc. Design by committee, and all that. Maybe you could work up a hierarchal chart, GJHS?


We need a firm list of intersted/serious people first. Post you interest level and I will make a list. Agree? suggestions?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I get a bonus check in 3 weeks all I need to say for interest lvl.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I would say keep it simple. There will be 100 different ideas from 100 people. I think few people with most experience should decide. Cat comes in my mind. 

We should cover different aspects:
1. Heat transfer from leds and heat dissipating from the shell (involving copper at apropriate places) 
2. User interface (10 level submenu would cover more people needs) 
3. Electrical efficiency (+ cabling, connectors, ....)
4. The input voltage (2S, 3S cells)
5. Leds - probably not much to choose from besides XM-L2 except the tint
6. Lenses and beam angle
7. Mount
8. Waterprofness, thermal and reverse polarity protecton is probably the obvious need
9. Last but not least, the look


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

tigris99 said:


> I get a bonus check in 3 weeks all I need to say for interest lvl.


This has already been a huge project for me to get here and to do this may take a lot longer than three weeks.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

I have now changed the driver on 2 of my NW Yindings, to the KD2 driver. Would love to have a similar driver in the Yinding "out of the box" so you don't have to toggle trough off. It would be enough with off=long press. I don't really care about the possibility to program the levels.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

ledoman said:


> I would say keep it simple. There will be 100 different ideas from 100 people. I think few people with most experience should decide. Cat comes in my mind.
> 
> We should cover different aspects:
> 1. Heat transfer from leds and heat dissipating from the shell (involving copper at apropriate places)
> ...


First are we sticking with same case and improving the rest. The more changes, the more it will cost and I agree Ledoman, keep it simple. It is not easy to communicate over seas.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Multi-level programming. MobyDRV drivers for example allow you to select number of steady modes and number of flashing ones, and you can set brightness of any mode. Click up, press down, hold for off.

For example- you could have one set for only Med-High, or one with 7 levels, or one with 3 different strobe patterns and different brightness for day or night for a tail light.

I suppose a button that is easier to work with gloves may be nice. You already gave us a nice neutral white (I hear)


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I think we should pursue either a 3 emitter or 4 emitter style lamp. With 3 I was thinking 2 floody on the sides and a (larger?) throwier in the middle. Body a little larger for better heat dissipation. Dual switches? One for on/off and one for mode changes. 

-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

GJHS said:


> First are we sticking with same case and improving the rest. The more changes, the more it will cost and I agree Ledoman, keep it simple. It is not easy to communicate over seas.


I agree with basic case design but if we are talking about three leds the case should be big enough with higher fins (ie. more surface area). Otherwise it's all the rest a waste of time.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Deeper fins, XPL LEDs, the KD 10 mode driver interface (with each step 50% higher), constant current so the flicker isn't crazy in the lower modes, bigger screws, 3A on high.


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## Moguo (Apr 3, 2012)

I'm interested 

some ideas :
Integrated aluminum gopro mount ( part of the case for better heat transfer)
better cooling (integrated gopro mount helps with this)
better waterproofing (integrated gopro mount helps also, one less hole)

does the yinding factory make anything else right now ? might be interesting to get a list since the yinding light is so well made.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Oh I know it'll take longer than 3weeks lol, just saying I got some lay money then.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Ok Guys, you asked and after a lot of work it's here! We have the green light from Yinding to customize anything we want if we order 500. They will change the emitter, make a 3 LED version, change the button, so what do you want?
> 
> You wanted a manufacturer to listen and they're all ears. We can make this light as good as we want.


500? Wow, there's more reach here than I thought! I have my two...just got my second one today. I'll probably wait to see if they burn up before I buy anymore. 

I will say this. It's an excellent winter light. Built in hand warmer. 

BTW...I chose standard shipping this time, rather than free. It shipped out on the 9th, and I got it today on the 13th. That's pretty fast! So for those wanting it faster, the first "pay" shipping option is significantly faster. My first one took almost three calendar weeks. Keep in mind I'm ordering the cool white...I actually prefer it. I'm weird apparently.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

I'm gonna keep it simple; I'd like to see a 3-up version of the Yinding similar to the design of the Gloworm XS. The body can be a little bigger than the original if that will ease the fears people have about over heating. Would be nice to see at least 2A through each emitter and yes simple 6A drivers ( with 10-level sub-programs ) already exist ( I know because I have one ). If they can't do 10-level sub program than a 4 steady mode with push-hold flash would be the way to go. DX already makes a three-up lamp with 4 steady modes so that driver is already available as well.

I figure if they can make a YD 3-up and it's made similar to the original it will handle the heat without to much problem. Like the original I want to be able to swap emitter board or purchase with the emitter bin ( CW or NW ) of choice. Also like the original I want to easily be able to swap optics if I choose to do so. 

Keep in mind this is still going to be a Chinese made mass-produced lamp. It will not be perfect but if it's done right it will be better than most and undoubtedly less expensive. We do need to keep it simple though. Get the lamp made first, if later we see things that could be improved we can submit feedback to make changes.

In the mean time I'm looking forward to what Gloworm is doing to provide NW emitters for their lamps. ( and for those who don't know, that discussion is taking place in the Gloworm XS thread ).


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

GJHS said:


> More Info to follow, I'm not sure how she plans to do it.


Any more update on this? I can't stand my warm white Yinding mixed with my neutral white Yinding.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

*Half / Full light*

Something I would love to see on a future light (but have a hard time seeing Yinding can deliver) is the possibility to switch between a half, not blinding light mode and a full light mode with an easy switch. As on a car.

With the heat transfer handled and enough battery you don't really need to have different levels as the lights have today. You just want to be able to switch to a "not blind others" mode fast and easy.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

After getting to use mine for the commute home and little extra cruising around to get an idea how itll be under everything id use it for:

Bunch of power options....no need for me, more options between med and high (2-3) and im good

green light, not even a big need there just needs toned down, too bright. red being bright is fine, warning light gets your attention but where theirs no lights, that green thing gets annoying.

SO heat dissipation upgrades (and of course power upgrade to match but KEEP IT where summer time heat the light can still keep temps under control), few more power level options, tone down the power button when green. 

Seems my version has one Yinding doesnt, the thermal safety, so need that (on every LED light,lol).

Optics and emitter options (with actual tint listed), and mount options. Well a QR mount cause prices for what you can find is insane ($15 for a piece of plastic with a screw and some rubber)


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

tigris99 said:


> After getting to use mine for the commute home


Do you use the Yinding in the traffic? Don't you blind everyone you meet then?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Lmao no my commute is unlit residential and them a concrete barriered sidewalk across a bridge. Got no angry looks or anything while on their. I did have the "spot" set about 15-20ft in front of me


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## Corvette (Nov 20, 2005)

Cat-man-do said:


> I'm gonna keep it simple; I'd like to see a 3-up version of the Yinding similar to the design of the Gloworm XS. The body can be a little bigger than the original if that will ease the fears people have about over heating. Would be nice to see at least 2A through each emitter and yes simple 6A drivers ( with 10-level sub-programs ) already exist ( I know because I have one ). If they can't do 10-level sub program than a 4 steady mode with push-hold flash would be the way to go. DX already makes a three-up lamp with 4 steady modes so that driver is already available as well.


That'd be awesome, I'd buy two in a heartbeat.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Appel said:


> Something I would love to see on a future light (but have a hard time seeing Yinding can deliver) is the possibility to switch between a half, not blinding light mode and a full light mode with an easy switch. As on a car.
> 
> With the heat transfer handled and enough battery you don't really need to have different levels as the lights have today. You just want to be able to switch to a "not blind others" mode fast and easy.


I can understand why you want the two mode only set-up but for the most part I don't think that's going to happen unless the Chinese are able to provide a much more complex LED driver. Since most people don't want just two modes there would have to be a "Duel Menu" system similar to the Gloworm's X2 and XS. It's doable but it's asking a lot.

Anyway, with your thoughts in mind a Gloworm X2 or XS would solve all of your problems. Both lamps have a "Two steady mode" menu that is also programmable. This means you can set each steady mode to the output that you need.

I disagree with your last comment that stated,



> ...you don't really need to have different levels as the lights have today


Few people want to MTB using just the highest ( or lowest ) level of light that their lamps can supply. Personally, I like a usable low mode for slow climbs ( and/or not blinding others), then a good medium mode for basic all around riding and finally the Turbo or High mode for when I'm at speed and have the need to see more things sooner. I can even see a place for a forth steady mode if the lamp happens to have a SUPER High output ( > 2000 lumen ). _***That said only the Gloworm lamps cover all of those bases as far as I know. _

***( While all the GW lamps are "Duel Menu" basic 3 or 2 steady modes, each menu has an additional sub-mode that can be accessed by press and hold and can be programed for low steady mode operation. This means the 3-mode menu is in essence a 4 mode menu although you don't have to cycle through ( or use ) the forth mode unless you really want to, OR if you need to turn the lamp off. Same applies to the 2-mode menu ).


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Appel said:


> Something I would love to see on a future light (but have a hard time seeing Yinding can deliver) is the possibility to switch between a half, not blinding light mode and a full light mode with an easy switch. As on a car.
> 
> With the heat transfer handled and enough battery you don't really need to have different levels as the lights have today. You just want to be able to switch to a "not blind others" mode fast and easy.


Yeah that's something I've though about a lot too. But while the Yinding's current obstinate control button certainly doesn't make it easy to change modes quickly, at least the O-ring mount lets you redirect its aim on the fly. Minor little pain because that same O-ring is kinda springy, so the lamp always wants to reset itself a bit when released from your grasp. A remote option could help but as you say, the problem is not so much adjusting the lamp's brightness but its direction. My solution so far has simply been to employ two lamps on the bars: Yinding with its smooth, fairly wide beam pattern pointing down, and KD MJ-880 clone with its dual spots aimed further up toward the horizon. That way I can hit the left side power button to kill the KD pretty quick, but still have my low beams on, just as you say like on a car. There are some dual and multi emitter bike lamps on the market that kinda accomplish the same job, with their LEDs pointing low and high and the ability to run either alone. Slight problem with most of those though is that you might have to cycle through modes to kill the high beams, and when high and low beams are on together they have to be running at the same brightness. Think maybe the Nitenumen has this sorted with its dual remote switch? Am waiting for something like that to come in Neutral White; Yinding already has me so spoiled that way.

Another obvious solution of course is simply to keep just one, relatively wide angle lamp on the bars directed downward and a helmet mounted spot you can aim anywhere, so all you have to do is turn your head in order not to blind oncoming traffic. Alternatively, should any motorist in the opposing lane fail to lower his brights for you, a quick nod of the head in the direction of the driverside windshield should take care of things right away.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Cat-man-do said:


> Anyway, with your thoughts in mind a Gloworm X2 or XS would solve all of your problems. Both lamps have a "Two steady mode" menu that is also programmable. This means you can set each steady mode to the output that you need.
> 
> I disagree with your last comment that stated,
> 
> ...


Well the Gloworm doesn't solve the problem of the beam's direction; AFAIK the emitters point the same way. Likewise the MagicShine MJ 816. The center XM-L2 spot and side pair of Mickey Mouse XP-G can be operated independently with stepless dimming, though this new model no longer features memory mode. Again, all the beams are aligned together, so you have to manually adjust the angle of the lamp head on the bars to simulate high or low beam. And also when all three beams are on they have to operate at the same brightness. This last is not such a big deal, as the two little XP-G ears are much lower power than the XM-L2 spot, so the resulting beam pattern is pretty well balanced in terms of intensity. Think the newer Eagle has beams aimed low and high, but that you still can't adjust the brightness of the two levels independently when both are on together. Also of course, not available in NW. So two Yindings, one with lenses modded with elliptical diffusers and both sporting improved control buttons, could possibly be a better solution than this $240 MagicShine. But you'd really want to be carrying some decent cell-pack!


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

andychrist said:


> My solution so far has simply been to employ two lamps on the bars: Yinding with its smooth, fairly wide beam pattern pointing down, and KD MJ-880 clone with its dual spots aimed further up toward the horizon. That way I can hit the left side power button to kill the KD pretty quick, but still have my low beams on, just as you say like on a car.


This is my way of light setup, too!  The only difference that I'm normally using two MagicShine MJ-808E, with default glass substituted by elliptical diffuser on one of them, and handlebar switch connected to the other for fast control on the road. For forest trails, that setup is extended with powerful "offroad" light and helmet torch, though.

Haven't seen any bike light with proper arrangement of beams, power and controls for both near & far beams in single package yet...


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

I have no idea with regard to the modes as normally l-m-h is good enough for me but the idea of a 3 emitter version is very exciting here. It's a good opportunity for us as a community to get a great product tailor made to suit our preference and also a good opportunity for yinding as they may gain the market share and become a more popular option. It was my understanding that magicshine had originally made a few modifications on their lights for jay (geoman) in areas that he thought needed improvements like wire gauge, thermal paste etc. This could be a good chance for a legendary light at this price point out of the box, kind of how the mj808 changed the game. I could picture these selling very, very well. I think that any minor issues like lack of thermal paste etc would need to be addressed so it's ready to go out of the box and it would be a true success story


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

Cat-man-do said:


> Anyway, with your thoughts in mind a Gloworm X2 or XS would solve all of your problems. Both lamps have a "Two steady mode" menu that is also programmable. This means you can set each steady mode to the output that you need.


The Gloworms look light great lights but I don't see how they can deliver a half light (I don't know the correct term in english, low beam?). With half light I mean a light beam with no light above the "horizon" that can blind meeting traffic.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

So how about a triple with two outer lights having elliptical optics (or at least wide flood optics) and a center throwing beam. If the center one is still small in diameter it may be better suited to use an XP-G2 there and xml2's on the side. Perhaps modes and/or separate switch to turn off the center light which would in essence be turning off your high beam. Or do a quad light with similar concept. 

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

That's not a bad idea for a 3 emitter.

Question is since trying to keep it simple, what is the factory looking to do. Make new 3 emitter cases and drivers to match or atm r we just upgrading the current yinding. 
Im for "finishing" the original first so there's a template of how to do a 3 emitter version.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

What about optics that are "dual beam" like the Fenix ones? They have elliptical type just at the top of the TIR.

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> So how about a triple with two outer lights having elliptical optics (or at least wide flood optics) and a center throwing beam. If the center one is still small in diameter it may be better suited to use an XP-G2 there and xml2's on the side. Perhaps modes and/or separate switch to turn off the center light which would in essence be turning off your high beam. Or do a quad light with similar concept. -Garry


If your trying to approximate an automotive style low beam I think you need to edit this (red copy) out of your post. Traditional symetrical wide angle lenses/optics actually have more top spill. The use of the elliptical wide angle optics would work great though (I've run this set-up on my XS). 
Mole


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

How about packaging it with a few different lenses so the user can mix and match to suit their preference. I'm sure they can source them for pennies and tack on a couple buck to the end price


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> So how about a triple with two outer lights having elliptical optics (or at least wide flood optics) and a center throwing beam. If the center one is still small in diameter it may be better suited to use an XP-G2 there and xml2's on the side.
> -Garry


Just measured the lenses on my Yinding and NiteFighter BT40S, and the latter are one half the diameter of the former. So theoretically you could stuff one XM-L2 in the center of the YD and a coupla XP-G2 around it, would still fit into the original case. Not saying that would be a wise choice, just something to think about for giggles. Because the size constaint on the single Yinding lens would reduce its throw in comparison with the standard dual XM-L2 version. Though the twin XP-G2 would certainly be enough for low beams. Would also look real hot, with the side lenses elliptical diffusers and the center a 10º spot. But the Gloworm XS, MJ-816, Jexree Bat, and even SS X3 have better intrinsic designs for such a three emitter combo.







Umm... Pay no attention to Mothra. She just flew into the picture.

Don't think you'd want a single XP-G2 for the center spot. Yes the smaller size means it projects well but it is limited in lumens versus the XM-L2.

Actually, a single lamp with the ideal beam pattern might employ one XM-L2 with a 10º reflector for throw, an XP-G2 with 10º or 15º lens to bolster it's brightness a tad and smooth out any rings, and another coupla XP-G2 ellipticals on the side. Not something we'd see in the Yinding case, which is why I still just recommend doubling or pairing it up with another YD or other lamp.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

andychrist said:


> Just measured the lenses on my Yinding and NiteFighter BT40S, and the latter are one half the diameter of the former. So theoretically you could stuff one XM-L2 in the center of the YD and a coupla XP-G2 around it, would still fit into the original case. Not saying that would be a wise choice, just something to think about for giggles. Because the size constaint on the single Yinding lens would reduce its throw in comparison with the standard dual XM-L2 version. Though the twin XP-G2 would certainly be enough for low beams. Would also look real hot, with the side lenses elliptical diffusers and the center a 10º spot. But the Gloworm XS, MJ-816, Jexree Bat, and even SS X3 have better intrinsic designs for such a three emitter combo.
> 
> View attachment 972773
> 
> ...


Ok the over/under idea of your lights is pretty slick. Gives me ideas for fun things to try, like I could mount a light at center bottom of fork crown. I have manitou forks so no arch to get in the way . Not sure how functional itd be but look interesting.

Oh god the ideas.....back on topic now lol.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Appel said:


> The Gloworms look light great lights but I don't see how they can deliver a half light (I don't know the correct term in english, low beam?). With half light I mean a light beam with no light above the "horizon" that can blind meeting traffic.


Sorry, I wasn't implying that Gloworm lamps could deliver a beam pattern that was providing directional or low beam cut-off. This is a topic and principle that really only applies to people looking for a lamp for road or bike path use. On other forums there has been much discussion about the need for such lamps and why there seems to be no real product that seems to meet the wanted standards. As far as I know only certain German manufacturers have attempted to produce a lamp that provides a beam pattern with cut-off ( or directional low beam ). Sadly most of those are underpowered and the produced beam patterns are not always without major artifacts.

Sooner or later someone will produce such a lamp but the sad fact is that there really are not a lot of people waiting around for such a product ( IMO ). That said whoever produces such a "niche" product is going to be rolling the dice as to how well it will sell. The Germans though are a bold people who seem to have very tight standards when it comes to bicycle road lamps so I figure if something is made along the lines of a "High/low beam bike lamp ( with cut-off or directional low beam ), it will made by the Germans to meet their own "road lamp laws".

Looking forward, if someone actual does make a lamp like you described ( with sufficient high/low power using a controlled beam pattern ) you can expect that it will cost quite a bit and also be quite big.

In the mean time I personally don't worry about blinding people with my lamps because I really don't see many people back in woods at night while mountain biking. When riding road rarely do I feel the need to adjust my lamp unless stopped at a light. Since I'm using a Gloworm X2 on the bars of my road set-up the X2 can pivot on the provided mount without too much effort if indeed I do feel the need to make an adjustment. I rarely ride paved bike trails at night but if I do I have a torch for minimal light that is easily aimed down for when encountering pedestrians or other riders.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

All very nice discussion, but I don't think we are going to see a completely new housing holding 3 or more LEDs in this upgrade, from what GJHS said. Changing electronics isn't too hard, adding a mount with heat sink could be feasible.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I agree with Cat. We will never manage to make a light that suits everybody. We have to distinct road/cummuter from MTB usage. Not shure but I think MTB users here are in majority. MTB usage is different and it should not take care of road riding. When MTB user is riding on road to get to the some trail you simply aim light down when needed and you are done. Different story with commuters who are faster and meet much more traffic.

We should decide we are discussing/designing MTB light or commuting light. We won't be able to do it for both in one light, but we can try with two designs and see what manufacturers have to say. Both have to be rather simple otherwise the price will be high thus less interesting to the buyers and we won't meet manufacturers terms.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

ledoman said:


> We should decide we are discussing/designing MTB light or commuting light. We won't be able to do it for both in one light, but we can try with two designs and see what manufacturers have to say. Both have to be rather simple otherwise the price will be high thus less interesting to the buyers and we won't meet manufacturers terms.


An XPG board option will tighten up the beam nicely for road riding (another reason to go with XPL).


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Ofroad'bent said:


> All very nice discussion, but *I don't think we are going to see a completely new housing holding 3 or more LEDs in this upgrade, from what GJHS said. *Changing electronics isn't too hard, adding a mount with heat sink could be feasible.


You might have missed the post as it was several pages back....(see below)



GJHS said:


> Ok Guys, you asked and after a lot of work it's here! We have the green light from Yinding to customize anything we want if we order 500. *They will change the emitter, make a 3 LED version, change the button, so what do you want?*
> 
> You wanted a manufacturer to listen and they're all ears. We can make this light as good as we want.


Anyway, if they make a 3-up they should have no problem selling 500 of them especially if they look and operate like the current Yindings ( or have additional added improvements ) The only other thing I would suggest for a flat 3-up is that an aluminum extension or mount be offered as an extra side item so people with riser bars have no problems with the lamp hitting the stem. I'd be willing to pay for the extra mount so I'm not asking for anything free.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

andychrist said:


> Don't think you'd want a single XP-G2 for the center spot. Yes the smaller size means it projects well but it is limited in lumens versus the XM-L2.


Lumens aren't everything! (BLF users would ostracize me for saying that!) The XM-L2's would already provide all the spill you need so you just need a throwy LED to get the extra throw. The XP-G2 also provides that throw at lower current thereby cutting down on overall current draw resulting in longer runtime.

I just posted pics over at BLF (mouseovers) comparing an XM-L at 3.0A vs an XP-G at 1.4A (these are older lights) and the center beam is about the same brightness with the XP-G just lacking the brighter spill of the XM-L.

I'm just trying to get the light exactly where we want it most efficiently. I've said before, I'm impressed with my MS-872 clone (4x XP-G) for the amount of light it puts out with good throw at such low current draw.

-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Garry, I'm not finding your post over there. Link please?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Here you go. The actual post was a few weeks ago. The XP-G's spot is actually brighter now that see it again. I forget now what the distance is to that shed; think it was between 150 and 185 feet.

Helmet mounted single cell wide throwing light suggestions? | BudgetLightForum.com

-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Thanks Garry.

Not sure which is which from my iPad but I take it the beam with the dark band through the middle ground is at 1.4A?

My 1600 lumen 4x XP-G2 lamp's throw is a little shorter than that of any of my XM-L bike lights. Beam is commensurably wider and of course its particular optics play an important role; all in all a very nice package which I can imagine improving with the aid of just an itty bitty spot.

So still thinking a single XM-L2 inside a reflector and a pair of eliptical XP-G2 on the sides would project a more useful beam pattern than one XP-G2 and two XM-L2, even though there'd be those ugly rings.

Continue to prefer my own topsy-turvy solution of a nice semi-spotty dual XM-L2 coupled with a more diffused one, for granular control of each lamp's aim and intensity. Even with only three brightness levels per lamp, gives fifteen different modes to play with.

Though come to think of it, perhaps a 1.4A mini-Yinding with just two eliptical XP-G2 would make the best independent low beam. Could be run on High all the time like that, without the annoying whine and flicker from setting an XM-L2 lamp down to Medium or Low.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> Lumens aren't everything! (BLF users would ostracize me for saying that!) The XM-L2's would already provide all the spill you need so you just need a throwy LED to get the extra throw. The XP-G2 also provides that throw at lower current thereby cutting down on overall current draw resulting in longer runtime.
> 
> I just posted pics over at BLF (mouseovers) comparing an XM-L at 3.0A vs an XP-G at 1.4A (these are older lights) and the center beam is about the same brightness with the XP-G just lacking the brighter spill of the XM-L.
> 
> ...


I have to agree with andychrist when it comes to using the XP-G2. I've used the XP-G2 in one of the helmet torches that I use while road biking. Yes, it does throw quite well and uses less power. The trade-off is lack of size of the hot spot. While lumens aren't everything they are still 80% of the equation.

I was very satisfied using the XP-G2 torch on the road but only because I really only needed a narrow beam pattern off the helmet and the XP-G2 seemed to serve that purpose very well. Since the Gloworm X2 I use on the bars supplies most of my usable light, the torch with narrow beam pattern saw only limited use but came in handy when I needed to look at stuff not directly in front of me at a distance. Still, there were times when I really wanted a slightly wider beam pattern with more power coming off the helmet.

Enter the Cree XP-L V5 emitter: Last year I picked up an XP-L drop-in for my Ultrafire 501-B torch ( used for helmet duties ). The XP-L, basically similar to the XM-L2 in output/power requirements, uses a slightly smaller base footprint. This helps give it a little better natural throw IMO. I've yet to use it on the bike yet but just using it at work to spot addresses on buildings at night I've noticed that it works very well and has a slightly brighter center area vs. the XM-L2 using the same reflector. Because of this I've already decided that the XP-L torch is going to see major helmet time when the weather gets better.

For years I've used the XM-L / XM-L2 format for mountain biking and have been very satisfied with the over-all beam patterns provided using just the available optics and reflectors. The XP-G2 just doesn't have enough output to satisfy my needs for mountain biking. Looking ahead, this year I'll be using the XP-L for the road bike helmet as well. While it will require more power vs. the XP-G2, in my case I really don't run it much on the road anyway so run time is generally not an issue. Mountain biking is much different as the helmet lamp I use is always running at least at half-power much of the time. I always carry an extra cell when mountain biking but rarely have I had to switch out a cell.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Well I don't have any personal experience with the XP-L but haven't been too impressed by BLF testing and feedback. I've not heard anything about beam pattern though. Perhaps during my helmet light testing I need to try out an XP-L as well. Maybe I'll pickup a 3rd host for it too. It's tough to do beamshot comparisons when you have to go inside and swap emitters between shots! 

The XP-L is more voltage hungry than the XM-L2 or even the XP-G2, but I'm planning on using 4.35v cells to overcome that issue anyway (since I'm running single cell in a flashlight and not a typical 8.4v 2S2P pack).

-Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Did a little read up on XP-L beam patterns and it's reported to be identical (or at least nearly identical) to the XM-L2. I'm not going to bother buying one to test.

Any C8 XP-L beam shots yet? | BudgetLightForum.com

-Garry


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> Did a little read up on XP-L beam patterns and it's reported to be identical (or at least nearly identical) to the XM-L2. I'm not going to bother buying one to test.
> 
> Any C8 XP-L beam shots yet? | BudgetLightForum.com
> 
> -Garry


Well, I guess the difference depends on what you're using to project the light. In my case I'm using a standard P-60 drop-in BUT not all P-60 reflectors are the same. I guess what it boils down to when determining beam pattern is what kind of reflector or optic is being used. The reflectors for XP-G or E, tend to have a smaller hole where the emitter dome sits. I've not tried to use one of those on the XP-L but now that I'm thinking about it maybe this week I might have time to try it out to see if it will fit or if there's a difference.

I did read the link you provided, thanks. When I get the chance to compare the XP-L and XM-L or L2 in the P-60 format I'll get back to you. Otherwise my initial impression was that the XP-L appeared a little brighter. I'll do a test with a lux meter as well.

Could be the XP-L's work better than the XM-L's using smaller reflectors. With the larger C8 or C2 type reflectors there might not be a big difference.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Cat-man-do said:


> Could be the XP-L's work better than the XM-L's using smaller reflectors. With the larger C8 or C2 type reflectors there might not be a big difference.


The XP-L dome is a little different so there will be some changes to the beam.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Aight sorry to break up the conversation on emitter debate for new version yindings (holy crap what happened to keep it simple  )

Edit: So was pointed out to me that KD 2 yinding clone had a thread, so moved this whole thing over there,lol.

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/review-kd-2-x-cree-xml-u2-4-10-mode-2200-lumens-bicycle-light-picture-heavy-940595-8.html#post11841602


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Nice add-on to help get the heat from the emitters to the case. 

In the pic showing the edge of the driver board it shows the inductor (ferrite donut with wire wrapped around it). If not already glued down, I'd advise doing that with some neutral cure silicone or hot glue. Usually the inductor is just mounted by the wire leads and bumps/vibration will make them break over time in trail use.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

OH CRAP, didnt think about that, thanks Vanc. Bought a glue gun for doing the SS case mods forgot about that issue (remember vaguely reading it). Get on that tomorrow.

Btw, forgot details above, thermal paste anywhere that can maximize ENTIRE CASE dissipating heat. I even put it where backing plate slides into case. Yindings and anything with a aluminum face plate, anywhere you can improve transfer into that face plate will help, face plate/front of case gets air first before anything while riding.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Move your discussion about KD2 in apropriate thread http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...umens-bicycle-light-picture-heavy-940595.html


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Yeap, back on topic now, sorry, lol.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I would like to see a 3 emitter light. I think if it's built well like the Original, it won't have any competition since finding a quality X3 is almost impossible. If they listen to this forums and others input and if those people actually buy what they recommend, it will be another success story.

I am talking with May to see how much they are planning/willing to change. Now comes the time to post your commitment. They need an order of 500 so we need to confirm who is interested. If you are interested post it now and how many so I know whether to continue this. I will post this next on BLF unless Garry Bunk, Ledoman or someone would like to take charge of this.

1 Pheller
2 Pheller
3 Appel
4 Appel
5 GarryBunk


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

In for two if they are true neutral white and have proper heat sinking. 

What I don't get is why they'll make and carry crappy variants with odd layouts that probably never sell, but they need commitments of 500 when we're essentially telling them what will sell like hotcakes if they produce it.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

I'm in for TWO 3 emitter Neutral White Yinding style light with a "toggle trough off" free driver. No batteries or chargers. Same optics as the 2 emitter Yinding.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

PHeller said:


> In for two if they are true neutral white and have proper heat sinking.
> 
> What I don't get is why they'll make and carry crappy variants with odd layouts that probably never sell, but they need commitments of 500 when we're essentially telling them what will sell like hotcakes if they produce it.


I've asked that exact question myself. Now to get the commitment from both sides to build it and a team in place to determine what we will ask for. Any suggestions on the build team?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I'll commit to buy one, but I have no idea of the cost of what I am committing too  . I'd like head unit only and like Archie "off" not in the mode cycle, a press-n-hold or 2nd switch. 

-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS said:


> finding a quality X3 is almost impossible.


Huh? What's wrong with the SolarStorm X3 you got for us? Neutral White and the control button is easy to press. Okay it's fugly but so am I. Yinding has a smoother beam because optics, small as can be but therefore can'tbe allowed to sit still on High. So is that all? And would even a three emitter Yinding have as smooth a beam pattern as the SS XT40? In any event it would have to have a bigger case, which kinda negates the original's unique petiteness. OTOH if having more LEDs results in a significant performance improvement both in terms of brightness and lumens per watt then I'd say sure, go for it. Though my preference would be for a round face with the emitters aligned in an equilateral triangle, two top one bottom. One On, Two On, Three On and stepless dimming within each mode. Bottom lens 10º*45º elliptical aimed slightly down as low beam, two upper lenses 10º or 15º spots aimed further up as high beams. Maybe a two button system with On/Off/Flash/Chase on left, Mode on right. Yeah this is starting to sound complicated but it's what I can already accomplish with the lamps I own now. New Yinding wouldn't have any advantage unless it could match that kind of functionality in a single package.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Hmm . . . I could maybe go for the "1Led, 2Leds, 3Leds" modes IF one button controlled that and another button controlled brightness levels. You could basically have low beam, high beam, and both beams and all at various brightness levels. Not sure many would go for that though.

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I'm in for 2. Pending on price and specs. Take a 3rd in 3 emitter variant. Also sell head only as is available now.

Better heat management, KD 2 style driver (love the programming ) with emitters being pushed higher, proper neutral white option, and optics options (flood,wide,spot or mix).

If they need commitment, send the ones in stock that aren't moving anyway, back to factory.

update heat management (which ain't hard with stock case, my kd2 emitter mount design blows and I fixed it easily)

Update driver

Put other optics options in the box

And there u go, the difference from all us vs 500. And not out all the old stock that needs help.

Hard to get alot of commitment when only you with real knowledge in these things and guy like me that know what were getting into at least, are going to buy these not knowing whats coming.

Or take old stock, upgrade, let us guinea pigs order them cheaply (like first batches seem to do for u guys). We test to see if they are what we expect, then role with it.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

At the same time I changed the driver on one of my Yindings I also took some aluminium parts from one of my old lights. Changed one lens to a 25 degree from ledna and switched to a slightly longer power cord so it can be used without extension cord.









It is important to look sharp while you are on the bike!!


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Assuming we see a three emitter optic lamp with typical driver similar to the SSX3 but looking more like a Yinding; I'm in for at least one, depending on what options become available. Perhaps maybe a second if a different emitter ( type or bin ) also becomes available.

I don't think you're going to get 500 people decide to buy any lamp sight/design unseen. Once the lamp is built, if it is what I think it will be it will sell itself. I remember when the first SolarStorm X2 and X3's came out that a lot of people just hated the look and thought they would never sell. Nevertheless, I think I can safely say that the SStorms sold ( and still sell ) big time. 

If Gearbest wants to sell bike lamps they need to pay more attention to the set-up of their website. I say this because last night I spent at least a couple hours trying to find any of the new lamps now being talked about listed on the main menu. Gearbest doesn't even have a listing for "Bike lamps" on any of their drop down menus. Of course if you know enough to do a search on the front page you will have no problem finding the lamps most talked about. That's assuming of course that you know what the lamp "You might want" is going to be called and what it might look like. 

If Gearbest want's to sell the lamps they make they need to do a better job at making them easier to find on the website. Having a "Bike light" or Bike lamp" category in the drop-down menu's would be a great place to start. Taking some ad space on MTBR wouldn't be a bad thing to do either.

As far as the possible success of a YD triple; If the new Yinding triple is half as successful as any of the Gloworm products they will sell a bunch and I'm sure more than 500 once the word gets out how well they work... ( assuming they are at least as bright as the SSX3's and are as DIY serviceable as the original Yinding ).

Edit; ...but what the hell do I know.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

Cat-man-do said:


> If Gearbest want's to sell the lamps they make they need to do a better job at making them easier to find on the website.


Totally agree.

Now there is a RED and BLUE option for the Yinding. But you can't choose NW or CW.
Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( Neutral White )-29.51 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

But the picture is not correct and if you switch to BLACK the RED and BLUE disappears but you can choose NW or CW. ????

Very confusing. ????


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## Corvette (Nov 20, 2005)

Agree, it's confusing indeed. Looks like it's still work in progress since they don't have the correct pics yet. 

A while ago it was also confusing since one light had "black" and the other "white" option, but after a few emails with May they've edited it. Now it's more clear:

Custom options: COOL WHITE | NEUTRAL WHITE

Color: BLACK 

They could simply add "color: red" and that would be it...


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I agree with Cat, both on GearBest's site organization (or lack thereof) and on a well-built light selling itself! I doubt they will get a commitment for 500 lights from here, BUT if we get a hold of them and give raving reviews I am sure they will sell like hotcakes! 

I like the "D.I.Y" aspect of it - keep it very user serviceable (i.e. easy front access with basic tools) and ship it with an assortment of optics for the user to swap in and out as desired. Those optics have to be pennies for them to acquire, so just tack a $1 onto the sale price to accommodate. Users that buy the light and are uncomfortable changing optics don't have to do a thing - just use it in stock form. 

And a programmable driver is almost a must to guarantee big sales. 

-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah the GearBest site is a mess, they'll never sell any bicycle lamp in quantity unless they address the current shortcomings.

As for programmable driver, not sure how wide an appeal that might have beyond us obsessive types here. If perceived as an unnecessary complexity might turn off the average rider. (Seen the 6.17 minute video on mounting and programming the DesignShine tail light? Grr.) OTOH, as long as the feature remains hidden and the entire setup works intuitively, could be a great selling point.

Example I keep citing (ad nauseam!), MagicShine's MJ-816, which has one spot and pair of ellipticals. Independently/simultaneously operated (1 LED, 2 LED, 3 LED) by clicking through modes. Stepless dimming up or down in each mode with one second Long Press, range is ~20% - 100%. Original model had memory, so each mode would remain at the same brightness when cycling through them all. Problem with the 816, only one (remote) control button, so have to go through Off. (Also of course when spot and diffuse beams are on together they have to be run at the same percentage brightness; not a big deal.) Which is why I agree with the two button solution: keep the Mode Control with Long Press and memory, other would be Power with Long Press for Flash/Chase (because three emitters). Click back to last Steady mode, click again Off. Beauty part is, while in Flash/Chase, Mode button could cycle through various blinkie patterns while still reserving Long Press for stepless dimming in each. That way, same lamp head but with a variety of red emitters/lenses could be manufactured as companion day/night tail light, no change in the driver. Front and rear lamps would have all the versatility needed for MTB or commuter. One Yinding design to rule them all!









Okay that red Kaidomain thang is kinda creepy but might look okay with the fins oriented vertically in planes parallel to the face (the way current Yinding does it), rather than in that horizontal mess. Give a nice "Y" silhouette. Again in either case, would need the bottom socket angled down and lens ellipticallized for an independent low beam. Not to mention all emitters Neutral White XM-L2.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I will address the lack of search ability of bike lights on their site. I'm afraid without a commitment of higher than 7 people this conversation is all for nothing. We asked them to make changes and convinced them. They didn't want to change anything so to take a big risk is out of the question. For the year and a half of being on the forum, I have heard people say if only a manufacturer would make what we want. I'm kind of surprised at the lack of interest.

I think what is hard to imagine for many is the absolute insane profit margins that these Chinese companies work with. Some make 15 cents on every item they sell. This very topic was discussed on the dash cam site (https://forum.dashcamtalk.com/threads/xiaomi-action-cam.10012/page-6#post-129947) We think China is a booming market of manufacturing, which may be true, yet most of these companies are tiny. They don't have the resources to tool and experiment, so Yinding's request is understandable. I believe you are right about them selling yet without instant sales they probably don't have the money to make it all happen.

I will bring whatever request you want and we will see. Even though I have been quiet on the forum, the behind the scenes talks to get this done were huge.


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## Moguo (Apr 3, 2012)

good effort

I'm in for 3


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Oy vey, just saw on GearBest where with their $47.17 Neutral White Yinding package that includes the sealed battery pack and charger, they offer Buy Together and Save the Xtar VP2 charger and SolarStorm battery holder, for a total of $79.17. Oddly, those two last items are not offered at that discount alongside their $29.51 solitary NW lamp head.

GJHS, I admire and am grateful for your fortitude dealing with this company.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well I've seen one thing, the yindings aren't sold stateside. But the KD 2s are (both variants), ss clones are. Get amazon supplied with yinding NW versions and being this mega thread etc, they'd move like mad. I needed a light quickly ready to go, go kd2 off amazon is where I went. Now i got time to play with so its different. GB needs to link up with a seller that uses amazon fulfillment so available via prime and then numbers would be plentiful to say the least.

Remember were on the DIY/hobbiest/tinkers only here, need to attract the masses and have quickly available.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Well I've seen one thing, the yindings aren't sold stateside... need to attract the masses and have quickly available.


That's kinda what I was thinking too, tigris. GearBest could actually remain the official seller though, they'd only need Amazon to warehouse and fulfill the orders. eBay would be a different story; without an intermediary to warehouse stock in the USA, they'd have to ship from China. What GearBest really lacks is someone in-house with more web smarts and facility with English to help market their products both at home and especially abroad.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

tigris99 said:


> ....Remember were on the DIY/hobbiest/tinkers only here, need to attract the masses and have quickly available.


I have to agree. If Gearbest wants commitment on advance sales they need to pursue another avenue. I guess they didn't need this for the original Yinding because it already existed. Maybe they need to use that website that seeks backers before the sales ( someone help me here I forget the name of it ). Of course if they do that they will at least have to have a proto-type and a general description of how the product is going to operate before asking for backers.

I have to admit I'm surprised by the request for advance sales. When I look at how many crap products are already made and sold on these sites I would think they would jump on the idea of making a product that is already generating interest. How many views does this thread have? 

Oh well, if they don't want to make it , "C'est la vie". The manufacturer ( and sellers ) of the Gloworm XS can breath a sigh of relief.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Kickstarter, Cat?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Group buys are common and this is nothing new especially on BLF. Here is one example: GB-OP updated 2/8/15: LuckySun BLF Special Editon D80-SE -Over 250! | BudgetLightForum.com. As for buying it before you see it, that depends on what changes you're asking. Originally this was about a driver change and possibly a button. Now that this is possible, no one is interested.

As for my opinion after all this work? I see both sides and at least I answered the "I wish we could find a seller who will build what we want" requests. I don't think Yinding is asking too much, they have made a few changes already for us nor do I think that GearBest is asking too much. Sales of the Yinding were good in the beginning and now are slow.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> As for my opinion after all this work? I see both sides and at least I answered the "I wish we could find a seller who will build what we want" requests. I don't think Yinding is asking too much, they have made a few changes already for us nor do I think that GearBest is asking too much. Sales of the Yinding were good in the beginning and now are slow.


Thanks again for your great job, *GJHS*! 

As for stalled GB sales, there's nothing really surprising IMHO. The people here who wanted to buy that well-known light, finally obtained it - so, our "limited market" is currently filled up. I doubt many of us are willing to pay in advance, just to support the maker and seller: Cat's idea of using Kickstarter looks like more appropriate way if the manufacturer wants to gain some backers...


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

The manufacturer is happy with their product and does not want to change it, yet are willing because we pushed. Because of all of our requests, they are willing to customize a small order for us.

I think a better direction is to stick with the original, swap the driver, a better button and possibly better fins on the case. If the forum doesn't want to group buy it, then we move on. I work for you, bringing your ideas and trying to make them happen.

Ok then, we agree to move on from this and leave well enough alone?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I think now is a good time for the 5C peeps to email you order number to [email protected]. It's just waiting for me to mount the 3C plate to confirm tint. I promise to get it done tomorrow.

Add in any parts you need and if you received the wrong plug.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> If the forum doesn't want to group buy it, then we move on. I work for you, bringing your ideas and trying to make them happen.


Some kind of polling would be handy, but I see no such option on this forum. Am I overlooked something?

As for ideas and commitments - I personally don't need any "customized" Yindings for now, and my suggestions about possible modifications were intended to be just discussion topics for those who want it to be redesigned 'on request'.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

GJHS said:


> I think now is a good time for the 5C peeps to email you order number to [email protected]. It's just waiting for me to mount the 3C plate to confirm tint. I promise to get it done tomorrow.
> 
> Add in any parts you need and if you received the wrong plug.


Ok so im debating on grabbing one now. What tint is mounted now in NW version? Compared to ss and kd2 NW tint? Trying to figure out if ill need to change emitters (already going to install KD driver when I get it.)


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

GJHS said:


> The manufacturer is happy with their product and does not want to change it, yet are willing because we pushed. Because of all of our requests, they are willing to customize a small order for us.
> 
> I think a better direction is to stick with the original, swap the driver, a better button and possibly better fins on the case. If the forum doesn't want to group buy it, then we move on. I work for you, bringing your ideas and trying to make them happen.
> 
> Ok then, we agree to move on from this and leave well enough alone?


GJHS, So the 500 minimum is for the redesign and not the driver/fin upgrade?

We should keep in mind GB pre-sale works like kickstarter, and wouldn't require staff to figure kickstarter procedures out. We can probably set an extended pre sale on GB and let yinding team decide if they can go ahead and start manufacturing etc. That seems more logical than kickstarter to me.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

tigris99 said:


> Ok so im debating on grabbing one now. What tint is mounted now in NW version? Compared to ss and kd2 NW tint? Trying to figure out if ill need to change emitters (already going to install KD driver when I get it.)


all the models I see are 3C, not sure about which kd2 you ordered. There is some minor difference due to optics on the yinding. The SS models are close enough with the xt40 looking more pure white.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I have an ss x3 NW on the way and also kd 2 driver with NW emitters on the way. So curious if yinding is close enough or if u need to get new emitters (or if 5c version would be worth waiting for)


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## ToSloTrk (Mar 25, 2009)

GJHS said:


> The manufacturer is happy with their product and does not want to change it, yet are willing because we pushed. Because of all of our requests, they are willing to customize a small order for us.
> 
> I think a better direction is to stick with the original, swap the driver, a better button and possibly better fins on the case.


If we could get better driver,button, and cooling fins I'd be in for 2 more.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

You have to give it more than two days to see if people are interested. I haven't been on here in a few days and I still haven't caught up. This forum is never super-active in the first place and it tends to get quiet once the DST time change kicks in. 

If you are talking about a new custom made light than that deserves it's own thread, since this thread is about the "original". You can't bury news of a redesigned light on page 60 of a mega-thread.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Correct, a separate thread is needed. Here we are staying more or less the same people. I think most of others have read something just to buy the light and gone afterwards. If you look the list of a threads there is no indication we are talking about Yinding 3up.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Agree 100%. Start a new thread on "Options for custom, inexpensive, well made light" and see what happens.


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## juhake (Oct 26, 2007)

Appel said:


> View attachment 973599
> 
> 
> It is important to look sharp while you are on the bike!!


Sorry to disturb, but what kind of helmet mount that is you are using?


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## Memristor (Dec 18, 2014)

GJHS said:


> I think now is a good time for the 5C peeps to email you order number to [email protected]. It's just waiting for me to mount the 3C plate to confirm tint. I promise to get it done tomorrow.
> 
> Add in any parts you need and if you received the wrong plug.


Would it be possible to shoot some pictures to show the changing process of the plates?


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

juhake said:


> Sorry to disturb, but what kind of helmet mount that is you are using?


It is a home made one, made out of a wooden rod. This specific mount can only be used with my Giro Atmos but the idea can for sure be applied to other helmets as well. See post #811 in this thread.
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...ing-yd-2xu2-found-941540-33.html#post11723979


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## chadmart (Nov 30, 2010)

MK96 said:


> Tracking in Europe works quite fine from the moment it hits the transiting country (Netherlands, Switzerland, Sweden, ... ). I guess it could be the same for US.


Tracking is brutal with GB and Nederlands Post. I basically got "shipped" and then it took forever for an update that it was on the way to destination country. four days ago it was "processed through sort facility in NY" which usually would mean that I should have it by now, but I do not and the tracking hasn't been updated since then. I suppose they put it on a truck and are driving it across country (I'm in CA), but usually there would be an update "left sort facility" or something. Anyway... I'm eagerly anticipating my Yinding.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

@chadmart : That's how it goes with packages from overseas now. You're lucky even to have received notice that your parcel cleared Customs! Last deliveries I've had from HK, all I see is Origin Post is Preparing Shipment, month later there is a ring on my buzzer from the USPS carrier. Only hours later on Tracking it says Sorting Complete Out for Delivery and Delivered. One order from GearBest I'd paid to track was actually shown to have gone through Customs only to be waylaid to Nashville TN before eventually finding its way back to me here in NYC couple weeks later. Part of the problem is that all merchandise like that is sent Registered Mail so has to go through a lot of dangerous safeguards.

Hope you get your Yinding toot sweet, chad. Know you're going to love it.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

andychrist said:


> Hope you get your Yinding toot sweet, chad. Know you're going to love it.


"toot sweet"??? Am I to assume that is an "autocorrection" error from your iPad? Or do you know Chad pretty well? 

-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> "toot sweet"??? Am I to assume that is an "autocorrection" error from your iPad? Or do you know Chad pretty well?
> 
> -Garry


I don't know chadmart but apparently Siri does.

Blue Yinding I ordered ages ago is still "Processing." Wonder if the anodized ones are ever going to ship.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

GJHS said:


> The manufacturer is happy with their product and does not want to change it, yet are willing because we pushed. Because of all of our requests, they are willing to customize a small order for us.
> 
> I think a better direction is to stick with the original, swap the driver, a better button and possibly better fins on the case. If the forum doesn't want to group buy it, then we move on. I work for you, bringing your ideas and trying to make them happen.
> 
> Ok then, we agree to move on from this and leave well enough alone?


It's fine with me. If they're not going to make a 3-up because they can't get 500 presales on a lamp that doesn't exist than I guess they aren't as bold as I thought they were. Somewhere in China there are people designing and marketing lamps that absolutely look awful and I'm sure they aren't getting 500 pre-orders before they make and sell those monstrosities. Anyway, no big deal if they want to forget the idea. I figure the loss is theirs.

In the mean time we still have the SSX3 which can work pretty well as a bar light although I much prefer a lamp using optics on the bars. ( with the thought of being able to exchange optics if wanted ) Anyway I still have the neutral white KD2 for the bars and it should be good enough to complement the NW SSX3 I bought from GBest for the helmet.

At some point I'll submit the idea for a KD3 to Kaidomain. Maybe they might be more forthcoming. Of course if Gloworm starts to offer NW for their lamps I'll likely forget all about it.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

andychrist said:


> Blue Yinding I ordered ages ago is still "Processing." Wonder if the anodized ones are ever going to ship.


Which link did you use to order the blue? Was it this one?
Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( Neutral White )-29.51 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

I've been looking to order a blue case neutral-white Yinding, but haven't been able to find the link through the Gearbest search. It's only when I saw Appel's post that I thought they may be up for purchase. 
Original/Real Yinding YD 2xU2 found - Page 59- Mtbr.com
It appears they are out of stock now.

GJHS do you know what's going on with the blue NW's?


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

varider said:


> Which link did you use to order the blue? Was it this one?


Nah I selected my second Black, Neutral White Yinding back before it was clear that GearBest would sell the NW anodized to anyone who wanted. GJHS told me to contact May and have them change my order so I did that. But am also waiting for them to reship a SS X3 along with it because the first one got a lens cracked by USPS. Told them to add insurance to this new order as well but so far have not received an invoice from PayPal, so looks like nothing is happening.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

andychrist said:


> Nah I selected my second Black, Neutral White Yinding back before it was clear that GearBest would sell the NW anodized to anyone who wanted. GJHS told me to contact May and have them change my order so I did that. But am also waiting for them to reship a SS X3 along with it because the first one got a lens cracked by USPS. Told them to add insurance to this new order as well but so far have not received an invoice from PayPal, so looks like nothing is happening.


Ah OK. I didn't want to hastle May via email, as I don't want her to get swamped with individual requests from the forum and get pissed. I remember GJHS said they would put up an new order page, so I was just waiting for them to put it up. Maybe the order page is not ready, or maybe they have already sold of out the first batch of NW blues. I imagine they will ship yours out with the arrival of the first batch of blues.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Well GB only recently put up the anodized NW on their site, am sure they haven't sold out. Just that they kinda screwed up so you can't select case color, only NW or CW. So you'd still have to contact them, it's now [email protected]. Maybe ask GJHS for more details though first, because it is not clear exactly what is going on with this option. From my own experience communicating with them, seemed they were eager to please. No doubt staff at GearBest appreciates each and every customer.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Things are a bit of a mess right now and getting through to May isn't easy. I will follow up on everything tonight, if I can reach her, and post the updates as soon as I know.

Once I confirm the Yinding custom deal, I will post a new thread. Give me a day


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Sounds good GJHS! I wish we could cut out the middle man and talk to the Yinding guys directly. They need to get it through their thick skulls that if you listen to the customers in your primary market you will sell more lights than if you just try and wing it.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS said:


> Things are a bit of a mess right now







Sorry, couldn't resist.


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## chadmart (Nov 30, 2010)

andychrist said:


> @chadmart : That's how it goes with packages from overseas now... ...Part of the problem is that all merchandise like that is sent Registered Mail so has to go through a lot of dangerous safeguards.


You would think that since it has to go through more safeguards, that it would get scanned a lot more, and therefore tracking would be better, not worse. Still, I'm sure the systems from the various postal services aren't made to interact with each other, so I'm sure that's part of the problem. I used to work for UPS though, so I know how many times a package gets scanned going through a sort facility. Coming off the truck, at least once inside the system, and again when it goes on the next truck at least... so it seems super-odd to me that packages could slip through more checkpoints with less scans. Ah well. We'll see when it arrives.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok Good News, the new anodized Blue and Red Yindings will have an updated mount and a better button. All Yindings will now include these improvements and pictures are incoming.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Woo hoo!

Thanks GJHS, you da man! :thumbsup:


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

That's great news. 
*
For a discussion/feature request for a completely new Yinding light go here*

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...ustom-inexpensive-well-made-light-959005.html


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

These yellowish 5C lights, will there ever be replacement plates? Are those confirmed to be right tint? What should I do to get them, just keep on waiting or should I email someone?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

XCJagge said:


> These yellowish 5C lights, will there ever be replacement plates? Are those confirmed to be right tint? What should I do to get them, just keep on waiting or should I email someone?


I posted it a few days ago
Original/Real Yinding YD 2xU2 found - Page 60- Mtbr.com
They should go out next week.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> "toot sweet"??? Am I to assume that is an "autocorrection" error from your iPad? Or do you know Chad pretty well?
> 
> -Garry


Urban Dictionary: toot sweet


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## chadmart (Nov 30, 2010)

Well, I received my Yinding (after they tried to deliver it while nobody was home). Aside from the strap for the battery pouch coming off, I strapped the pouch on with zip-ties and I'm good to go. I plan on hitting the trails at least one, if not two nights this week, so I look forward to trying it out.


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## Belse (Apr 16, 2013)

Ok, now I have read all of the about 25 pages that I`ve missed since I bought my two Neutral White lights, when I recieved them I thought that they were a little bit too much yellowish but didn`t give it anymore thought about it until now when I`ve read that they had shipped the wrong lights. Email May about it just now to see what happens, has anyone recieved any replacement boards yet?


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

GJHS said:


> Ok Good News, the new anodized Blue and Red Yindings will have an updated mount and a better button. All Yindings will now include these improvements and pictures are incoming.


This is good news! The button is one aspect of the existing design that really needed improvement, IMHO. Hopefully it will now be possible to activate reliably when wearing gloves. Any idea when this new version will start shipping from GearBest?


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Crap. All these improvements, and I have two of the originals in black. I knew I shouldn't have veered away from my typical procrastination.  

I'd be up for getting two more...one red and one blue...but I haven't even gotten to do anything but a 30 minute test ride on pavement with mine with all the rain we've had!! I don't even know if they're going to burn up at trail speed or not yet. :madmax: 

Can some of you guys who have been riding with them comment on how well they do with switching to low when they get too hot (thermal protection), and/or if they've had failure issues due to heat? The elephant in the room on his light seems to be how hot the small thin case gets, and I don't think the trade off will be worth it if it is constantly running on low.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Wanted to share this, Vanc's Mount does GREAT THINGS for these little lights, I just ran a nice test to show how much it helps:

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...tional-heatsinking-958312-2.html#post11860329


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Just been emailing May from Gearbest about getting the correct board.
They are being a pain. They wanted the original shipping documents and photos of these light and beam, in addition to the order number. I provided the order number, took a frickin pic of the light and the beam, then got a reply that it looks like the right tint in the photo.
Fer gawd's sake, I know a warm tint when I see one, and also know bad customer relations when I see them. The problem is on their end, the fix is cheap, and I have been a good customer, yet they seem to think I am trying to scam them.
I sent another pic with the yellow Yinding and a netural beam from another light. 
Maybe this will appease them, but it's a lot of hoops for a dinky little part.

OK, rant over, but wanted to give you a heads-up, getting the right board is a pain in the butt so far.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Just got an email from May apologizing for bringing me trouble on this. It sounds like they are getting a lot of hassle from Yinding, so maybe the difficulty is not at Gearbest's end.


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## Belse (Apr 16, 2013)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Just got an email from May apologizing for bringing me trouble on this. It sounds like they are getting a lot of hassle from Yinding, so maybe the difficulty is not at Gearbest's end.


Recieved the same email too, are abou to send some pictures of my lighteads and beams now, I also took picture of one o my old Yinding beams for comparison so they can clearly see the difference between them.


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## upstateSC-rider (Dec 25, 2003)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Just got an email from May apologizing for bringing me trouble on this. It sounds like they are getting a lot of hassle from Yinding, so maybe the difficulty is not at Gearbest's end.


Same here, wanting pics of the SKU, pics of the lights, and pics of the color/tint.
This may be why a lot of people are hesitant about that pre-order for the 500 custom lights.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I think it's not Gearbest issue but manufacturer chasing not to solve their mistake. I've sent her my beamshot of 5 different lights on the same picture (published in this thread) where it can be easily seen Yinding made a mistake using 5C (or about) tint.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

May from Gearbest said Yinding is being hard to deal with.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Same for me. The products have been shown to be the wrong tint on this thread. 
Yinding would know how many they produced with the wrong board spec.
We shouldn't be jumping through hoops.
May and GB should bear the cost of delivering the product they offered and we paid for. 
Saying someone else is not cooperating doesn't change their responsibilities.


The alternative may have to be a full refund.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Same here... sent pics of documnts and light, linked my mtbr posts of beams...

no response for more than a week. Should of hit that dispute button on paypall.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Have _any_ new Yindings shipped yet to paying customers with the "correct" 3C tint? IIRC, GJHS said he'd received the new sample and was going to upload some shots, did I miss those? Also waiting to see pics of new anodized YD with improved driver and control button, have a blue one on order and real curious how they changed it.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I pmed GJHS about all that yesterday, nothing out yet waiting to hear cause I want to order one but I want 3c tint. Hopefully new driver is comparable to kd driver otherwise im gonna have to change it lol.


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## Belse (Apr 16, 2013)

Everyone can make mistakes, but what differs a good company from a bad company is how they are dealing with the mistakes that they have done. I think that we will soon now what type of company this is...


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I have no doubt they will deliver the LED plates, I did receive mine. I have just been so busy that I haven't had time to test it. 

I will reach out to her and find why they're making people prove what has already been proven. Maybe they're doing this to ensure people aren't just asking for a free LED.


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## Belse (Apr 16, 2013)

GJHS said:


> Maybe they're doing this to ensure people aren't just asking for a free LED.


Why should they need to do this if that was the case? They wanted the ordernumber and they should get all the info they need from that...


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

How they do things, why and who is slowing things up is beyond me. There have been situations in the past that were easily fixed so don't worry, I'm on it.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok 5C people, it seems the problem is Yinding, they're insisting that you send your order number and a picture showing the problem. So take a picture of your light on high against a white background. If you need help, post it here and I will try to help.

Please, I ask refrain from from the scam comments, you will have your LED plates. May told me if Yinding doesn't handle it, GearBest will make it right. Newcomers this has been a long road and to date, minus these 5C tints everything has been great. Email [email protected] with your order number, the picture and any parts that arrived broken. Thanks


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Sorry I forgot to add that when the new batch comes in with the new mount and improved button, I will post it so don't worry.

Again all new batches of Black, Red and Blue will have an improved mount and button.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

And 3c


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Yes and 3C, sorry. I'm sorry info is moving slow, it's not easy communicating overseas.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

What was wrong with the first mount?


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

Hi guys. Im from BLF and got info about this thread here. Any coupon on this one?


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

andychrist said:


> What was wrong with the first mount?


I was wondering the same thing. It's the standard plastic/rubber combo, with the tabbed rubber band to hold it on the bike. Not sure how it could be improved, unless they included a quick release bar clamp instead. ???


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Mountainking7 said:


> Hi guys. Im from BLF and got info about this thread here. Any coupon on this one?


First off, you need to go to GearBest and just type in "Yinding" into the search box. If you try anything like "Mountain Bike lights" or something similar, you will see several options, but the Yindings didn't come up for me. I have no idea why.

Unless it has changed, you type the word "Yinding" into the discount code/coupon line at the checkout page. I assume the promotion is still ongoing, but it's been awhile since I ordered the second one. I can't remember the exact discount amount, but if it's still valid I think it was about 20%. Someone feel free to correct me on that if I'm wrong. I got the kit, and it went from $46 down to $38, so that's pretty close to 20%.

Oh yeah, and on the first one, I chose the free shipping option. Took about 3 weeks. The second time, I chose standard shipping and paid about $9 extra. I got it in 5 business days, which shocked me. Now, that was for a cool white model in black, and May told me that the colored ones would take longer. I assume the 3c neutral white models will take longer as well. I was fine with cool white, because I already had a helmet light in that color temp and wanted them to match. The light color looks almost identical to both my S12 Two and BikeRay Speed II lights.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok Guys, May just wrote and confirmed that next week, she should have the LED plates. Unfortunately Yinding didn't believe us about the tint being wrong and isn't acting very responsibly, so GearBest will step in, take care of it and provide the LED plates. While disappointing information, it's great to see GearBest take care of its customers.


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## XCJagge (Dec 18, 2014)

At gerbest web site 3C tint was never mentioned, there was natural or neutral white. I am not sure the tint we got too far from that description, really. If I imagine me ordering without knowing anything about discussions here and GJHS's work and getting what I got, I believe I would not complain too much, I would be happy with the quality, I might hoped something less yellow, but I would think it's natural/neutral enough to not be an error or reason for refund. But I would have ordered only one, not three.

anyway, I hope this will not give signal to yinding / gearbest that co-operating like this with customers is not a good idea. So let's be polite and try to understand their actions.

My 3 lights compared to cool white (with auto white balance camera setting).


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Wow, if that's the case I pity Gearbest for having to sort it out while Yinding is making unreasonable demands that make Gearbest look like the picky ones.
I wish they'd told me that Yinding is demanding the pics and SKU- I would have put that in my original posting.



GJHS said:


> Ok 5C people, it seems the problem is Yinding, they're insisting that you send your order number and a picture showing the problem. So take a picture of your light on high against a white background. If you need help, post it here and I will try to help.
> 
> Please, I ask refrain from from the scam comments, you will have your LED plates. May told me if Yinding doesn't handle it, GearBest will make it right. Newcomers this has been a long road and to date, minus these 5C tints everything has been great. Email [email protected] with your order number, the picture and any parts that arrived broken. Thanks


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

It's like magicshine and geoman all over again...well, without garages burning down and such


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Now that the two companies are in this dispute, are they still going through with the NW blues with the improved button, or is that on hold as well?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I just got my second light today, and it has the correct tint! It was ordered in Jan. I think.
Definitely neutral compared with the first warm white unit.


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## rideonjon (May 27, 2009)

So do we still have to provide beam shots to May to get the 3C plates?They have our purchase information,i don't really see why each of us has to prove our own case.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Did you send her your order number? I don't know if she still needs the photos.


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## rideonjon (May 27, 2009)

Yes she has my order #.


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## rideonjon (May 27, 2009)

Has anyone had their 3C plates shipped yet?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I hope my lighthead shipped with 3c plate but really its stupid easy to change the emitters if not with just a decent soldering iron. But still crossing my fingers mine shows up next week with correct tint, emitters cost me $8 a pair...


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

I haven't heard anything from May yet.
She has my order # and request for my two light heads.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Something is up being I contacted may just for stock status of NW version and if whats in stock was 3C, that was a week ago and nothing back yet. Think this has turned into way more than it should have, combined with yinding being a pain. Overall its a $25 (well $33 now kicking myself for waiting but higher price better be updated version lol) light, being ordered from china with limited information and one poor forum member trying to be a "go between". Hellva light regardless for the price. Look what is charged for single emitter basic lamps.

Really it takes 5-10 minutes with a decent soldering iron (I have a hobby one, 60w and its almost overkill), aligator clip soldering station (or something similar made of metal) and $10 for emitters to change tint to whatever one you want. I hope mine shows.up with 3c, if not oh well.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Last that I heard they were taking pictures of the new batches in colors, updated button and mount. They are on vacation until Monday so I will check in then. Hopefully they will continue to carry it, after the issues with Yinding.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Oh crap did I order too soon??? Lol that's my luck. Oh well


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

rideonjon said:


> Has anyone had their 3C plates shipped yet?


I emailed May a week ago with my order # and have not received any response/feedback at all.

For those who have said: "This is a $25-$30 light, what do you expect". You haven't read this whole thread then. This thread essentially PROMISED that the "good" Yinding's are here and so far, hasn't really lived up to the claim yet for some of us yet.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

By good u mean what??? Ok I get the button sucked and something with the mount, besides that just different emitter tint. I have read the thread but I realized (with other lights I have bought recently) that these are cheap lights. The case itself is decent, drivers are decent enough, top end emitters. Just cheap out everywhere else, I can't complain. I know what was discussed here but with price and where its coming from, I dont say just deal with it, but everyone needs to not be going crazy over everything. No way places like gearbest will go through this kind of effort for us again if we are impossible asshats about every little detail. 

And as said, THEIR ON VACATIONS, people are allowed those just like the rest of you, so we let them finish dealing with this when they come back.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

H


neons97 said:


> I emailed May a week ago with my order # and have not received any response/feedback at all.
> 
> For those who have said: "This is a $25-$30 light, what do you expect". You haven't read this whole thread then. This thread essentially PROMISED that the "good" Yinding's are here and so far, hasn't really lived up to the claim yet for some of us yet.


I agree the tint replacements are taking way too long for reasons discussed. What other problem? The button and mount were the same as the original, so no shortcuts were made. Except some 3C tints being more like 5C, I'm happy with the build quality provided.
Either way this light may be on its way out so this is all a one time deal unless something changes. It's my opinion that GearBest should continue to sell the Yinding. I don't think GB feels that this is popular enough to justify Yindings actions.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I agree, yinding being a pain is making matters far worse. The light isn't that popular ONLY because the china retailers is the ONLY way to get any version of it. Betting on the fact of how close it appears to its "parent". Where as kd version and so on, barely call it a clone. Nothing is the same about it vs duo really. Ooo 2 emitter tiny oval shaped head. Programming options in the driver.

Yinding has something great, but to get to the point they THINK they are, they need to change the appearance of the head so it doesn't literally look damn near exactly the same in a picture/on a bike. Then they can have amazon fulfill, and eBay sellers stateside etc. 

Can't wait to get mine, I may order a second when we know the newest ones are in stock, before their gone (in head only form, trying to avoid anything with batteries from there due to us customs bs)


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

GJHS said:


> Last that I heard they were taking pictures of the new batches in colors, updated button and mount. They are on vacation until Monday so I will check in then. Hopefully they will continue to carry it, after the issues with Yinding.





GJHS said:


> Either way this light may be on its way out so this is all a one time deal unless something changes.


You think this is on it's way out?
I was waiting to got the neutral white with a blue case. So is there going to be one batch of these and that's it? Or should I just order the NW black housing just in case?


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah I put in my order for NW Blue months ago, still wondering if there's any chance of ever receiving it. Would take another NW in Black again, even with the first "wrong" tint, which I actually prefer to the 3C anyway.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

neons97 said:


> For those who have said: "This is a $25-$30 light, what do you expect". You haven't read this whole thread then. This thread essentially PROMISED that the "good" Yinding's are here and so far, hasn't really lived up to the claim yet for some of us yet.


I can assure you I've read whole this thread thoroughly. And I have to say: "This is a $25-$30 light, what do you expect?" 

It's cheap China stuff; no warranty for everything, as usually. And despite of that - it's quite decent light if compared to others of the same price range...


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## rideonjon (May 27, 2009)

neons97 said:


> I emailed May a week ago with my order # and have not received any response/feedback at all.
> 
> For those who have said: "This is a $25-$30 light, what do you expect". You haven't read this whole thread then. This thread essentially PROMISED that the "good" Yinding's are here and so far, hasn't really lived up to the claim yet for some of us yet.


I'm not sure anyone PROMISED anything in this thread,i'm very happy with my purchase.Even with the warmer tint.These little lights deliver.i guess some people will never be happy.if you got it for free you would probably complaine.
Once again thank you GJHS for all your work.I for one appreciate it.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

I just got a shipment notice from GB for a red NW Yinding I ordered a month ago. I'll report when I receive it.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

The Red and Blue should have just come in, so preorders should ship and others just wait until they come back and I will confirm. 

Yes, this may be it for the "Original" quality Yinding, the clones will stay, though don't jump yet. Let me confirm and I guess it depends on interest. I don't want to ask everyone to post a message asking GB to keep the Yinding. I think they should, it's a great light. Too bad the company is making poor decisions.


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

So if I order a black case with a neutral tint, will I be getting a 3C tint or are they still sending out the 5C?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

The 5C were batch 1 and should have been fixed months ago. You can always write May and ask her to confirm for you.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

rideonjon said:


> I'm not sure anyone PROMISED anything in this thread,i'm very happy with my purchase.Even with the warmer tint.These little lights deliver.i guess some people will never be happy.if you got it for free you would probably complaine.
> Once again thank you GJHS for all your work.I for one appreciate it.


+1. :thumbsup:


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

I look at this as an ungoing process with a single quality control blip revolving around the change in tint from the Chinese low price standard.
Lack of timely testing and communication between those moving it forward maybe from a bit of a rush in the face of the communication difficulties.
I like the format of this light. When things are resolved and 3C can be guaranteed I will recommend it to friends. It should be successful.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Hey wanting to share this for info:

Carclo and the optics from LEDDNA are the EXACT SAME DIAMETER. They must just measure differently.


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

rideonjon said:


> I'm not sure anyone PROMISED anything in this thread,i'm very happy with my purchase.Even with the warmer tint.These little lights deliver.i guess some people will never be happy.if you got it for free you would probably complaine.
> Once again thank you GJHS for all your work.I for one appreciate it.


You are correct. This thread didn't promise anything. Kudos to GHJS for trying to help us all out and organize this all.

My order was for a neutral white, and I got a warm white. I didn't receive what I ordered. So yes, I am thoroughly disappointed with my purchase. Even though it's only $25, it's money wasted until I get what ordered.

What's more disappointing is the slow response time for replacements. This issue has dragged on for nearly two months now! I would be accepting of the claim they were on vacation and not responding to emails if I hadn't received two promotional emails from them in the past 7 days.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

neons97 said:


> You are correct. This thread didn't promise anything. Kudos to GHJS for trying to help us all out and organize this all.
> 
> My order was for a neutral white, and I got a warm white. I didn't receive what I ordered. So yes, I am thoroughly disappointed with my purchase. Even though it's only $25, it's money wasted until I get what ordered.
> 
> What's more disappointing is the slow response time for replacements. This issue has dragged on for nearly two months now! I would be accepting of the claim they were on vacation and not responding to emails if I hadn't received two promotional emails from them in the past 7 days.


You got what u paid for, just like buying a Chinese light claiming 10k lumens but it only putting out 1k. What China's interpretation on NW was different, look at solarstorm x3 NW. That sure isn't 3c with stock lens/reflectors. Convert to optics and gtg. When GHJS got the ssx3 built, that's how it looked, so that's the reference gearbest had.

But u agreeing with GHJS then going on about not getting what u paid for.... Mine just better have new mount/button since I had to pay $33.

On better things, can't wait till mine arrives. Ran tests last night and found LEDDNA optics are better than carclo. Seem leddna optics get more light forward and out of the light (2mm taller optics too). Gonna be ordering a ton more so I have plenty for any lights i have. Half the price a bit better light output and beam. From looks of it they are same optic as glowworm/duo.


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

tigris99 said:


> You got what u paid for, just like buying a Chinese light claiming 10k lumens but it only putting out 1k. What China's interpretation on NW was different, look at solarstorm x3 NW. That sure isn't 3c with stock lens/reflectors. Convert to optics and gtg. When GHJS got the ssx3 built, that's how it looked, so that's the reference gearbest had.
> 
> Stop throwing a fit over a $25 light, especially when YOU AGREE WITH GHJS YET I. THE SAME BREATH COMPLAIN YOU DIDNT GET WHAT YOU PAID FOR. He said nothing was promised, you got what you ordered.


It's pretty well documented here that us 1st-batch NW customers got 5C warm white instead of 3C neutral white. It even appears that GB has even admitted to this as well. Which is why the delayed 2nd batch deliveries to update them to 3C NW. So all 1st batch NW customers did not receive what they ordered. That is pretty much as much of a fact as we're going to get out of an online forum discussion. Not sure how I received what I ordered when I ordered a NW and received a WM.

The difference is, some have moved on, since it's only $25. And some haven't. I haven't. I work hard for my money and expect a retailer to deliver on what they claim to sell me. A replacement LED plate was posted as a resolution to the wrong item delivered. I am simply trying to follow-up on this proposed resolution that has been dragging on for nearly two months now.

I continue to commend GHJS for trying to help us all out. This is not his fault, nor am I assigning any to him in any way shape or form. But it seems like he is the only one that GB is responding to emails from and is our voice to the company. I have sent 3 emails to May in the past two months on this topic with never a single response or acknowledgement that they received my inquiry.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

neons97 said:


> It's pretty well documented here that us 1st-batch NW customers got 5C warm white instead of 3C neutral white. It even appears that GB has even admitted to this as well. Which is why the delayed 2nd batch deliveries to update them to 3C NW. So all 1st batch NW customers did not receive what they ordered. That is pretty much as much of a fact as we're going to get out of an online forum discussion. Not sure how I received what I ordered when I ordered a NW and received a WM.
> 
> The difference is, some have moved on, since it's only $25. And some haven't. I haven't. I work hard for my money and expect a retailer to deliver on what they claim to sell me. A replacement LED plate was posted as a resolution to the wrong item delivered. I am simply trying to follow-up on this proposed resolution that has been dragging on for nearly two months now.
> 
> I continue to commend GHJS for trying to help us all out. This is not his fault, nor am I assigning any to him in any way shape or form. But it seems like he is the only one that GB is responding to emails from and is our voice to the company. I have sent 3 emails to May in the past two months on this topic with never a single response or acknowledgement that they received my inquiry.


Im with you 100% neons, I started this and promised quality so I'm sorry, I didn't know May wasn't responding to emails over the last weeks, that's unacceptable and I will write an email right after this. I think what's been happening is that GB has been fighting with Yinding to get them to own up to their mistake and make it right. Yinding however is refusing to admit some got the wrong tint, which leaves GB having to very reluctantly pay the bill. There was a very small profit on those lights so it's not something they're excited about. In fact they will probably stop all business with Yinding over this situation.

Now with that said, there is no reason that she shouldn't be answering emails. I have no doubt they will send the LED plates, just why it's taking so long has a lot to do with Yinding. It may explain why the Yinding went to cheap copies from the other sellers. It makes no sense since the light is fantastic and great quality, yet when has anything made sense with the Chinese crap shoot. I will report as soon as I know something and sorry for being so quiet on here, I've been a bit busy with other projects.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

neons97 said:


> I continue to commend GHJS for trying to help us all out. This is not his fault, nor am I assigning any to him in any way shape or form. But it seems like he is the only one that GB is responding to emails from and is our voice to the company. I have sent 3 emails to May in the past two months on this topic with never a single response or acknowledgement that they received my inquiry.


I understand how you feel, but it's quite typical for Chinese sellers to ignore emails if they don't have correct answers. OTOH, my personal experience with GearBest was more or less positive: despite very unpleasant things like order cancellation, they've finally fulfilled it. Be patient, and don't expect "first class service": cheap price justify some glitches anyway...


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Omg so I tried to contact them about a blue one...couldnt get a decent response, so I ordered one and paid the higher price, now blue ones on the site in NW....


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Anodized color YD on GB still looks to have same flat control button as first batch. GJHS said that was supposed to have been changed, wonder what they are shipping. Did the pics of a new one ever come in?


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

andychrist said:


> Anodized color YD on GB still looks to have same flat control button as first batch. GJHS said that was supposed to have been changed, wonder what they are shipping. Did the pics of a new one ever come in?


Blue one seems to have a redesigned bar mount. Looks like it won't have the problem of the outside pieces on the front breaking off that the previous design had.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Their all supposed to have the redesigned mount. Bummed blue one is cheaper than black. Need to find out if blue is actually in stock or when it will be cause as.much as I dont need another light I REALLY want the blue one. Trying to talk myself outta it since ill be sorting out anodizing parts myself sometime soon.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

kwarwick said:


> Blue one seems to have a redesigned bar mount. Looks like it won't have the problem of the outside pieces on the front breaking off that the previous design had.


Because they simply removed those outside pieces, in effect breaking them off for us in advance?  Mine was fine the way it came. Or did they just switch to the SS style mount? That would be good.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

tigris99 said:


> Omg so I tried to contact them about a blue one...couldnt get a decent response, so I ordered one and paid the higher price, now blue ones on the site in NW....


Write May she will take care of it.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

andychrist said:


> Anodized color YD on GB still looks to have same flat control button as first batch. GJHS said that was supposed to have been changed, wonder what they are shipping. Did the pics of a new one ever come in?


I'm wondering the same, maybe the button activates without having to push it in so far. Give me a chance to check and I will report back. I notice that the 3C LED plates are sold seperate.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GJHS said:


> I'm wondering the same, maybe the button activates without having to push it in so far.


Yeah, said before all they needed to do was fill the void between the silicone boot and the prong inside for it to work okay. Like the way it looks as is, very slick, be great if they did not have to change that for it to function better.

Does "Yinding" still work as a coupon code?


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

andychrist said:


> Because they simply removed those outside pieces, in effect breaking them off for us in advance?  Mine was fine the way it came. Or did they just switch to the SS style mount? That would be good.


Those little outside pieces are quite fragile. Mine arrived with one broken off. I remember noting when these lights first went up for sale at Fasttech the product photos had a light with one of the pieces bent in and almost broken off, so maybe its a feature!

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10005710/1443723-yinding-2-cree-xm-l-u2-4-mode-1800-lumen-white


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

GJHS said:


> Write May she will take care of it.


Well my black one will be here Thursday and I emailed may early last week with no response, wanted to order one before things went stupid with yinding being impossible. I'll try again maybe shell cut me a break on price of blue one.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

I just got back from a 1:45 ride, so I figured I would give some real world observations. The Yinding stayed on high the entire time with no drop down from thermal control, and I just had it bar mounted with the stock plastic mount and rubber band.

It was 75 degrees. I was a little worn out from three straight days of riding, so I only averaged a little over 8 mph, so it wasn't like it had a ton of air flow.  I touched it a few times, and it was definitely hot to the touch, but it performed really well. I wouldn't have any reason to believe that it wouldn't last as long as the battery will without stepping down. I guess if you were doing a long sustained climb at slow speed, that might be cause for concern and you might want to turn it down, but where I ride...we just don't have that scenario.

The combination of my S12 Two helmet light and the Yinding on the bars is all the light I need. After having compared them a little, there's just no substitute for that nice bright spot that my helmet light gives, and I don't know if you could get a narrow enough optic in the Yinding to make it work well as a helmet light. It's just too diffuse with the stock lenses IMO, which is also what makes it so good as a bar light...just a nice channel of light. If someone experiments with some other lenses that will make it more of an intense ellipse, then I'd love to try it.

Now you guys have me worried about the plastic mount on my Yinding. I just assumed those are all made in the same place and would hold up pretty well. Do you guys know anywhere that sells those that are made of a higher quality plastic that would fit reasonably well? I don't want that to snap during a ride and have my light fly off, or worse yet have it drop down into my spokes!! :eekster:


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Nice, glad too see it does well, can't wait for mine to show up. Probably crank it up a tad, add vancs mount, already have some good solid spot optics waiting for it. Issue with optics is finding right ones, carclo spot optics suck for a good "spot". The narrow version they have is still diffused. The ones you can order from leddna on the other hand, you get some side spill (need dome optics to eliminate that) but a solid hot spot and better throw.


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

Tigris I would have taken you issue to live support. Once I ordered a mobile for $84 then I did a google search and got a coupon for $65. Asked for an immediate cancellation after payment approved.
They proposed me store credit which I declined. I said I wanted cash NOW. They said it will take 2-3 days because of accounting dept blah blah.
I said them DO IT NOW please and they did! Got a paypal refund like 2 hours after the purchase and repurchased item with coupon code for $65 deal


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

tigris99 said:


> Nice, glad too see it does well, can't wait for mine to show up. Probably crank it up a tad, add vancs mount, already have some good solid spot optics waiting for it. Issue with optics is finding right ones, carclo spot optics suck for a good "spot". The narrow version they have is still diffused. The ones you can order from leddna on the other hand, you get some side spill (need dome optics to eliminate that) but a solid hot spot and better throw.


At some point, I will try to get some trail shots. The tint of the cool white is really good. I usually expect a blue, green, or purple tint, but not here.

I think with my current set up, I'm happy. Vanc's ABS plastic mount is working spectacularly well on my Bell Super 2R helmet with my Speed II and S12 Two lights, and the bar mount for the Yinding worked great last night with no movement. It's just so lightweight that I think it would take a direct whack to get it to move!

I am concerned about the durability of the mount now, and I'll likely look for a more durable replacement just to make sure it doesn't fail. I actually have two "extras" that were sent with my Sogn 900, and I can just replace them with those for now until I can locate some good replacements and get them in.

I applaud you guys for your efforts. I'll be very interested to see what you think about the "innerds" of the GB Yinding when you get it in. I'm hoping you will say it is pretty solid internally, and is an indicator that my two should last for at least a few seasons of riding.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> Now you guys have me worried about the plastic mount on my Yinding. I just assumed those are all made in the same place and would hold up pretty well. Do you guys know anywhere that sells those that are made of a higher quality plastic that would fit reasonably well? I don't want that to snap during a ride and have my light fly off, or worse yet have it drop down into my spokes!! :eekster:


DX sells an aluminum mount.

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> At some point, I will try to get some trail shots. The tint of the cool white is really good. I usually expect a blue, green, or purple tint, but not here.
> 
> I think with my current set up, I'm happy. Vanc's ABS plastic mount is working spectacularly well on my Bell Super 2R helmet with my Speed II and S12 Two lights, and the bar mount for the Yinding worked great last night with no movement. It's just so lightweight that I think it would take a direct whack to get it to move!
> 
> ...


Don't worry about the mount, the part people are saying breaks isn't an important part, they're just extra. if you're looking to upgrade go with Vancbiker's GoPro adapter and an aluminum mount.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

garrybunk said:


> DX sells an aluminum mount.
> 
> -Garry


Thanks for the info Garry!


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah, the original mount will probably be fine. Am guessing any problems might have arisen were from damage in transit. That said, the newer type of MagicShine mount seems sturdier. And the aluminum mount Garry found on DX is probably indestructible, just the minimum order for free shipping is $15, otherwise they charge $10 extra to the States, D'oh!


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Don't worry about the mount, the part people are saying breaks isn't an important part, they're just extra. if you're looking to upgrade go with Vancbiker's GoPro adapter and an aluminum mount.


Thanks for the info. Yeah, I've thought about that. I have the ABS plastic mount on my helmet light, and it works great with the Super 2R Bell.

I just like the ease and convenience of the rubber band for the bars, because with the Yinding they hold fine and I can just keep a spare in my backpack and I'm good. My Sogn 900 has a nice quick release aluminum mount, but it does add some weight and it's one more thing that doesn't look like much fun to land on should that opportunity arise.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

garrybunk said:


> DX sells an aluminum mount.
> 
> -Garry


Just ordered that one few days ago to see if it helps with heat dissipation. Don't have big expectations, but let us see if it fits, at least. Since an average delivery time to me is 3-4 weeks don't expect I will tell you anything soon.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

andychrist said:


> Yeah, the original mount will probably be fine. Am guessing any problems might have arisen were from damage in transit. That said, the newer type of MagicShine mount seems sturdier. And the aluminum mount Garry found on DX is probably indestructible, just the minimum order is $15, D'oh!


I'm going to roll with the stock mount after you guys' feedback. My guess is that if it is going to fail, it will probably do it immediately upon putting the rubber band on there, because it's got some pretty healthy tension on it. The Yinding is so lightweight, and it sits perfectly balanced on the bars, that I don't think any typical riding induced shock would cause failure. A good crash might, but I'm hoping not to find out.

If someone comes up with a great lens combination that would make the Yinding a good helmet light, then I will consider trying that. At that point, I would certainly want to get one of Vanc's aluminum mounts for convenience as well as possible thermal benefit.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

ledoman said:


> Just ordered that one few days ago to see if it helps with heat dissipation. Don't have big expectations, but let us see if it fits, at least. Since an average delivery time to me is 3-4 weeks don't expect I will tell you anything soon.


I have one (received a week ago or so). I've only confirmed it's aluminum and put it away. I threw it in my order along with the "good" magicshine extension cables. The "US Direct" shipping is nice, though you don't get much in the way of tracking updates.

-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

@NWAtrailyguy 
You don't have to worry about mount in most cases. In a 5 years I've never managed to break one on any light. Of course it can happen if you abuse it somehow.

Lens combination is much of personal taste and you can't expect you'll get it one for all. The best way is to order different ones for few $ and try it out. I've seen to much distinct opinions on what the perfect beam would be to rely on any opinion. First use stock one and if you are not happy with it try to mod with different ones. It is really simple to change them.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

I'd be interested in narrower ° optics to fit the Yinding as well, though am perfectly happy with the lamp as is. Only ones I can find for XM-L in 20mm*10° are dependent on holders which would not be waterproof inside the YD. Maybe Garry knows of a compatible lens?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

andychrist said:


> I'd be interested in narrower ° optics to fit the Yinding as well, though am perfectly happy with the lamp as is. Only ones I can find for XM-L in 20mm*10° are dependent on holders which would not be waterproof inside the YD. Maybe Garry knows of a compatible lens?


I don't know of any others.

-Garry


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

andychrist said:


> I'd be interested in narrower ° optics to fit the Yinding as well, though am perfectly happy with the lamp as is. Only ones I can find for XM-L in 20mm*10° are dependent on holders which would not be waterproof inside the YD. Maybe Garry knows of a compatible lens?


Man, it's all foggy, but I think Cat-man-du actually posted some pictures of varying lenses in his Yinding awhile back. I remember him giving the link...vaguely. What struck me as odd was that the narrowest beam lens was actually wider and had what appeared to be some really bad immediate bleed in the beam to each side. I recall posting about that, and he said he thought there was a mistake of some sort, but wasn't sure what caused that result.

That's why I've held off, because I haven't really seen a lens that would make the Yinding narrow enough to this point. I figure Tigris will test his once he gets the lenses in, and maybe that will shed some light on options for a combo that makes sense.

I've said this before, and I still feel this way for my local-trail rides. I could ride with a helmet only light, and the only place I feel I'm giving up vision is when I'm in narrow trees and I can't see close in front while simultaneously looking ahead for the next obstacle. I find myself feeling like I could whack my bars much more easily. If I had a Yinding with one narrow lens to create a good spot, and either the stock lens or one that is similar with an elliptical pattern, I would probably make a commitment to running a Yinding on my helmet with nothing else. I did that briefly with a SS X2 clone before it bit the dust, and with their stock lens set up, I was pretty happy without even having a bar light.

Thanks for all of your feedback. Super helpful.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Are you referring to those Gemini optics from Action LED? I forget who posted those, but they are in this thread somewhere! Maybe I can search and come back with a link. (Those Gemini optics are pricey - probably marked up from the cheap prices we're used to paying!).

-Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Here we go - see post #1280 onward.

-Garry


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

garrybunk said:


> Here we go - see post #1280 onward.
> 
> -Garry


Thanks. Reading back through that helped. The one that jumped out the most was where Mr Mole said that he read 141 on the Gloworm, and 143 on the GB Yinding with the thermal gun. That's really negligible, and I probably worried more than I should have about heat failure. That proved out when I was FINALLY able to take it out for a test ride last night.

It definitely looks like the best bet if I decide to try the Yinding as a stand alone helmet light is probably trial and error with lens combos. A narrow 10 degree coupled with that Action LED elliptical might do pretty well together for a helmet only light on short evening rides when mounting all of my lights takes half as long as my ride.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah those 10º optics bianchifan got from FastTech are the ones I was talking about that come with holders. As he mentioned they don't really seat well in the YD without them, but the slits in the top of the holders' rims would keep them from making a water-tight seal.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

As far as tight 20mm optics for XMLs, the best I've used are the Leddna ones and they're not really very tight at all. I think you'll end up needing to go to a reflector to get more throw, though in my experience, it won't be much if any better because of the 20mm limitation. The XML die is too big in relation to a 20mm optic of reflector to really get tight.

Best beam quality I've seen yet with an XML is using a 45mm reflector. Nice reaching center spot, enough spill for close in and a sharp cutoff to leave all the clutter to the side of the bike in the dark. Hard form factor to make into a compact helmet light though.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Vancbiker said:


> As far as tight 20mm optics for XMLs, the best I've used are the Leddna ones and they're not really very tight at all. I think you'll end up needing to go to a reflector to get more throw, though in my experience, it won't be much if any better because of the 20mm limitation. The XML die is too big in relation to a 20mm optic of reflector to really get tight.
> 
> Best beam quality I've seen yet with an XML is using a 45mm reflector. Nice reaching center spot, enough spill for close in and a sharp cutoff to leave all the clutter to the side of the bike in the dark. Hard form factor to make into a compact helmet light though.


Thanks for the feedback. That's really what I wanted to know...is there really any point in trying to make a light that works REALLY well stock as a bar light, into a helmet light. I'll probably just stick with what I have and enjoy it for what it is...a really good bar light that works great in conjunction with a helmet light with a bight spot and good throw. As I said in my initial feedback...that combo is all the light I could ever need.

Maybe in a month or so someone will stumble upon a good SS X2 with reliable components and I'll snag one to use for my short evening rides when I want to roll with a helmet light only. I was really happy with that style light serving that function.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

andychrist said:


> Yeah, said before all they needed to do was fill the void between the silicone boot and the prong inside for it to work okay. Like the way it looks as is, very slick, be great if they did not have to change that for it to function better.
> 
> Does "Yinding" still work as a coupon code?


I just tried to to order the blue NW and the coupon "YINDING" doesn't work. Is there even a coupon for the blues or do you just pay a little extra?


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## juhake (Oct 26, 2007)

EDIT: useless duplicate post


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

The blue/red ones are already cheaper than the regular black ones by like $4 lol. I waited and got stuck with higher price which wasn't a big deal I guess, but $4-5 is $4-5.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok here we go! 

LED Plates
Yinding provided only 10 plates and those will be sent out by Customer Service. GearBest will take care of the rest and provide 20 gift cards to use to buy the LED Plates for the other 5C people. May will contact you in the next few days to tell you how to get the gift card. Also there are 30 more 3C LED plates in stock if you want to buy one.

Red and Blue Yindings
May has extended the coupon "Yinding" for the Red and Blue Yindings making them $25.64. There are 38 Blue and 40 Red left in stock.

Upgraded Button and Mount.
The button has been upgraded to be easier to push and the mount upgrade has been discussed.

The future of Yinding and GearBest
When stock on the Yindings is finished, GearBest will no longer carry the light, which is why I listed stock numbers for the Red and Blue. Yinding's lack of responsibility has cost GearBest money and they will not continue to do business with them. May alluded to other issues so I don't think its completely about the 3C light mistake though Yinding refusing to fix the problem or even accept that there was a problem was a huge part of it.

May and GearBest are still willing to work with us on other deals, I just don't know what else.


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

Man o man...


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> Thanks for the feedback. That's really what I wanted to know...is there really any point in trying to make a light that works REALLY well stock as a bar light, into a helmet light. I'll probably just stick with what I have and enjoy it for what it is...a really good bar light that works great in conjunction with a helmet light with a bight spot and good throw. As I said in my initial feedback...that combo is all the light I could ever need.


IMO you've come to the right conclusion. While using the Gloworm spot optics in the Yinding provides more light intensity and throw the changes are minor (approx 10%).
As delivered I think the Yinding lacks the power to take full advantage of these optics as my X2 far out-throws the Yinding using the same spot optics. Wish I could provide some beam shots but I've concluded my new camera has too many automatic settings
and it's results don't match what I see closely enough for me to want to post.

I did some outdoor thermal test last week you might be interested in. Temp. approx 90F, max intensity, speed 5-6 mph the light lasted almost a half mile before it stepped down and only required about a min. @ 8 mph to recover. At those temps riding max intensity at normal speeds was fine. Also, nice surprise that the light steps down to 60% instead of the "not enough light to see" level of most lights thermal protection modes.
Mole


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Well it's a shame this is coming to an end. It was good to see this quality light come back from the dead. Not only was it an improvement on the original (xml2), but we could get it as a light-head-only option which we couldn't get the first time around. It was the first time (that I recall) were we had any contact with the manufacturer of any of these inexpensive lights and got them to listen to us.

*Of course that's all due to GJHS's relentless work. If you haven't had a chance to give him to a positive reputation point, maybe you could do it now. He deserves it.*

If you have been thinking of getting this light order now! It's the best deal going! Don't come crying around here about were can I order the Yinding. This is it baby. Expect to get a crappy clone of clone after the Gearbest supply runs low.

I ordered two of the NW blues since they will probably sell out before I receive the shipment. I figure they will probably be gone in a week or two.

The shipping options are way different this time, there were 4 or 5 different options. I clicked on the one that promised under 10 business day delivery.

I'm sort of drowning in lights at this point so I'm going to try an hold out for at least the next 6 months of not buying anything. That's the plan anyway. 

Yinding really screwed the pooch on their business dealing with Gearbest and the replacement led plates. Really a dumb move. They would be selling the double indefinitely and we were well on our way in coming up with a triple-led dream light. It's their loss.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

MRMOLE said:


> ....I did some outdoor thermal test last week you might be interested in. Temp. approx 90F, max intensity, speed 5-6 mph the light lasted almost a half mile before it stepped down and only required about a min. @ 8 mph to recover. At those temps riding max intensity at normal speeds was fine. Also, nice surprise that the light steps down to 60% instead of the "not enough light to see" level of most lights thermal protection modes.


Was that test with the plastic mount or the finned GoPro adapter?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

GJHS said:


> Upgraded Button and Mount.
> The button has been upgraded to be easier to push and the mount upgrade has been discussed.


Is this valid also for current stock of black NW Yindings or it was just blue and red?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

ledoman, Ill tell you in the morning (my time) as already received text from DHL they are delivering tomorrow. If its NOT, Im going to be slightly upset lol.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

tigris, when did you place this order and please confirm it was Neutral White?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Placed order late last week, paid for express shipping. And I ORDERED the NW version, better be what I get,lol.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

I'd order another few anodized Yindings if they'd ever ship the blue one I purchased two months ago. Am also still waiting to receive the replacement SS X3 that came with a cracked lens thanks to USPS, had paid insurance on it and May agreed to have a new one sent out along with the anodized YD once that became available, as well as an invoice for added insurance. But my order is still "processing" and have not had any response to further inquiries.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> Was that test with the plastic mount or the finned GoPro adapter?


 This was with the stock mount . I haven't had a chance to try out the finned adapters that I received Monday but they sure look nice. I should be able to do some indoor tests this weekend, unfortunately outdoor temps. have cooled down and it's possibly might be another month till I see temps like last week. Give me a couple of months though and I should be able to give you feed-back on how the Yinding with your mount reacts to 100F night ride temps.
Mole


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

I just got a shipment notice for 2 YD NW led plates. Hope it is correct and that I will receive them in a couple of weeks. Then I can rebuild two of my old 2nd gen Yindings with the new led plates and KD2 drivers.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

May just wrote to tell me that my neutral LED plate is on the way.
Ordered one of the new blue lights in Neutral- we'll see how that goes, and if the button is different.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Yeah Yinding sure screwed themselves. Wonder how they stay in business since this light doesn't seem to be sold anywhere else. Oh well. I hope KD pulls throw with a great new KD2 and Yinding sees what they missed out on (steady sales). 

-Garry


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

MRMOLE..thanks for the thermal test feedback. That is exactly what I wanted to know, because there will be times when I'll be glad to be riding at night when it's 90F instead of 102 degrees during the daytime. 

I rode again last night, and my brother and I were all geared up to take some trail pictures with his fancy shmancy Nikon DSLR camera when we got back to the lot. But...alas, a thunderstorm blew up and we didn't get to. It's on the agenda coming up though, and I have all of the official "Mtbr.com" camera settings stored in my phone. 

Oh, and last night as an experiment, I ran both my Speed II and Yinding on medium. I had no issues whatsoever, and after awhile I forgot I was running at less than high.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

garrybunk said:


> Yeah Yinding sure screwed themselves. Wonder how they stay in business since this light doesn't seem to be sold anywhere else. Oh well. I hope KD pulls throw with a great new KD2 and Yinding sees what they missed out on (steady sales).
> 
> -Garry


And ya know, I'm tempted to order two more from GearBest. One to mount on a golf cart at night just to run around our 120 acre place, and one just to have for an extra for guests etc.

But...with absolutely no support whatsoever, and what sounds like a severed relationship between GB and Yinding, does everyone feel comfortable ordering this last batch of lights? I guess GB can still issue refunds if we get defective ones right?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> But...with absolutely no support whatsoever, and what sounds like a severed relationship between GB and Yinding, does everyone feel comfortable ordering this last batch of lights? I guess GB can still issue refunds if we get defective ones right?


IMHO, it's better to always take some risks in consideration when playing Chinese roulette. If you have a chance to buy something useful for cheap - use it, but don't expect too much.

Yes, the seller may disappear or stop responding, the item may be faulty or incomplete, substituted with different one, etc. Whether you'd like to try your luck or not - it's totally up to you. There's no real warranty in this game!


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

-Archie- said:


> IMHO, it's better to always take some risks in consideration when playing Chinese roulette. If you have a chance to buy something useful for cheap - use it, but don't expect too much.
> 
> Yes, the seller may disappear or stop responding, the item may be faulty or incomplete, substituted with different one, etc. Whether you'd like to try your luck or not - it's totally up to you. There's no real warranty in this game!


True...and solid points. There is a dice roll every time on this stuff. The more I thought about it...it's a golf cart. I can put one of the 9 LED's on there and just light up the countryside!! Who cares about weight!!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Yes, it is a poor move by Yinding and somehow a lesson as you see some behind the scenes stuff. When May asked for pictures, it truly was to prove to Yinding the light tint was wrong and 10 were approved. There isn't a large profit to be made and Yinding chose not to take a loss instead GB ate it and lost profit on 20 lights, of course they won't take that risk again.

As far as stock, the Red and Blue ones are the most limited. There is a decent amount of Black left, so dont take this as a sales pitch nor as an opportunity for KD, they had a year without the Original Yinding already. If the light proves and remains popular, I'm sure GB will change their minds, though not be open to making any changes. Maybe writing May couldn't hurt so her bosses see interest, though I know many of you will say this thread should be enough. I would like to be able to buy more in the future, one reason I started this whole thing.

if you guys want to still roll the dice on the custom Yinding, we can still push for it. We are going to pre buy based on the sample so the risk is ours. It's a $30-40 risk that could pay big, if only a one time deal.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Yes, it is a poor move by Yinding and somehow a lesson as you see some behind the scenes stuff. When May asked for pictures, it truly was to prove to Yinding the light tint was wrong and 10 were approved. There isn't a large profit to be made and Yinding chose not to take a loss instead GB ate it and lost profit on 20 lights, of course they won't take that risk again.
> 
> As far as stock, the Red and Blue ones are the most limited. There is a decent amount of Black left, so dont take this as a sales pitch nor as an opportunity for KD, they had a year without the Original Yinding already. If the light proves and remains popular, I'm sure GB will change their minds, though not be open to making any changes. Maybe writing May couldn't hurt so her bosses see interest. I know many of you will say this thread is enough. I would like to be able to buy more in the future, one reason I started this whole thing.
> 
> if you guys want to still roll the dice on the custom Yinding, we can still push for it. We are going to pre buy based on the sample so the risk is ours. It's a $30-40 risk that could pay big, if only a one time deal.


So, just to recap, since I wasn't here from the beginning. You along with some of the faithful night riders at mtbr.com stumbled across the original Yinding being sold here at GearBest. Some other places sell clones of this light, with apparently varying levels of quality.

In an effort to get "neutral white," Yinding accidentally used 5c instead of 3c tint, and some of the early purchases had a light that looks extremely yellow/brownish. Yinding wasn't thrilled about rectifying that issue and didn't want to supply the parts to correct the mistake.

It's hard to believe that they can't reach some sort of common ground on an issue that seems that small. There would seem to have to be more to the story, because if we're talking about a few parts versus the long term prospects of selling this light, it doesn't make business sense looking from any angle. It doesn't make sense for Yinding not to correct the mistake, and it doesn't make sense for GearBest not to continue to sell the light now that the initial mistakes have been corrected, even if they take a little punch here in the outset with the 3c boards.

Am I missing something? It's a great little light, and with the minor changes it's now even more desirable.

Is this why these "original" products turn up from time to time? Do they wear out their welcome, sort of like sketchy E-bay sellers who change names constantly, and then surface somewhere else...like this one showing up on Deal Extreme for example?

What a weird business model.


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## Corvette (Nov 20, 2005)

20 lights = 20 LED plates x $6.59, that's $130 total (not taking into account that the actual plate price is probably a bit lower). It's a shame that they want to stop doing businnes instead of reaching a good agreement for both sides ... I mean, the loss amount is not that big.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> What a weird business model.


For me, that looks quite strange, too. But I have to admit, it works!


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

GJHS said:


> if you guys want to still roll the dice on the custom Yinding, we can still push for it. We are going to pre buy based on the sample so the risk is ours. It's a $30-40 risk that could pay big, if only a one time deal.


I doubt we could convince them to continue their business relationship since they already lost money on their first encounter. It's just not a good business move on the part of Gearbest. It would probably make us look bad for continuing to insist on maintaining that relationship. The only thing that's going to change it is if Yinding reimburses Gearbest for the losses somewhere down the line.

I can't imagine that it was only 30 people who got the wrong tint. The preorder page was up to over a 100 when the NW first came out.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Man there better be blue ones left tomorrow when I get paid lol. Being were loosing yinding (well the GB good version since other sites have them, just a crapshoot on internals). I'm making sure I have a couple. Especially since ill be sure to have spare kd2 drivers ($8 each without emitters good to have spares).


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Omfg im pissed!!!!










Not damaged in shipping, piece wasn't in bag, THEY FRACKING SHIPPED IT TO ME BROKE!!! And scratches in face plate that factory just anodized over.










Not to mention I paid $33 for the this and its the old version!!!

Plus side it puts out almost as much light as my kd2, literally a small difference and carclo optics effectively suck!!! Lol. Mine is 3c Must have only been a small portion of preorder that got 5c. I do like the case better (thicker finning, more aluminum) than the KD 2.

If mount broke in shipping, ok, faceplate meh but $33 for it being shipped like that and not the newest version that May is saying they have in stock.....

But if GB doesn't make this right and quickly, they've lost a customer. Sucks cause I really wanted a blue one. Plus was looking at buying a torch and another ss case or 2....Guess ill be buying a blue clone and redoing internals myself. At least, though slow shipping, I at least get responses to emails from KD, ive been ignored at GB.

Edit: I decided now that I've calmed a bit that the option they have is I place my next order this weekend but they pay for DHL this time. That's good enough as I know its not entirely their fault but ffs they should have seen the mount broke or responded to my emails regarding what version they had and were sending me.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

tigris99 said:


> Omfg im pissed!!!!


Damn! I myself (and several other members here) received Yinding with some imperfections, too - but your sample seems most unpleasant one so far...

Hope GB will finally answer to your emails and provide replacement.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok I feel a tad better now but still irritated I paid $33 for that thing.

Stole noctigons, remote switch, gopro mount from KD2, changed optics, increased output to 3A, and upgraded to silicone 20awg.










Then we sit down for dinner and just as I get done (baby still eating) sirens for severe weather go off, then before it can even shut down they hit it again for tornado warning. We grab stuff to head to basement, I turn on tv and yell "F*** basement, NOW!!!!

Damn thing lifted before getting to my neighborhood and passed right over us before droping to ground again and doing more.damage. No reports of any injuries besides one guy trying to film it and got blown through a window at a pub/bar.


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

A question tigris...Where does the battery pack goes? And is it being held by a double sided adhesive tape or something?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

tigris99 said:


> Ok I feel a tad better now but still irritated I paid $33 for that thing.
> 
> Stole noctigons, remote switch, gopro mount from KD2, changed optics, increased output to 3A, and upgraded to silicone 20awg.
> 
> ...


Wow! Glad your OK. Has May been in contact with you?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

My camelbak at the moment. Once I change the connector in the fenix case ill have that option for helmet pack. I sure dont mount it permanently, my light is on a gopro mount and switch is on Velcro so light is easily removable.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> So, just to recap, since I wasn't here from the beginning. You along with some of the faithful night riders at mtbr.com stumbled across the original Yinding being sold here at GearBest. Some other places sell clones of this light, with apparently varying levels of quality.
> 
> In an effort to get "neutral white," Yinding accidentally used 5c instead of 3c tint, and some of the early purchases had a light that looks extremely yellow/brownish. Yinding wasn't thrilled about rectifying that issue and didn't want to supply the parts to correct the mistake.


Well not quite, in 2013 the Original Yindings came on to the scene and reviews were excellent so we all ordered one. A few months later, at the height of sales, the sellers told us that our orders were on hold while Yinding made more. Some of us cancelled, some, like me waited. When I got my light certain parts of the light were now cheaper parts and as time went on more and more parts got cheaper until there was no quality part left on any Yindings from any seller.

Knowing how many were still talking about the light and trying to find one, I asked Dora to find the Original Yinding. Everyone thought the original quality ones were no more, until Dora with my help, found them and here we are. GearBest did not carry this light before this project and many of the people who bought this light were the ones who couldn't get the original in 2013.

I have been the point man and the middle man here, trying to get the forums wants met. After the 1A Yinding orders were done and quality was confirmed, the forum asked for a 3C Yinding and after a bit/lot of work we got Yinding to agree to it. Yes, Yinding mixed in some 5C tints and now refuses to admit that and therefore refusing to fix it.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

GJHS said:


> Wow! Glad your OK. Has May been in contact with you?


Yes and no, she replied to my emails about stock status I sent last week, no replies about my yinding or to the support ticket.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

tigris, to bad you've got broken mount and cratched light. Luckily you have found good solution which would you probably do anyway. Don't have any GoPro whatsoever and wondering how fast is mounting/dismounting? With standard Magischine/Lupine it is just few seconds as you already know.


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

GJHS/tigris/other members how much in all has this setup cost you? The mounts, headlamp, remote switch, fenix carrier, heatsinking etc?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

gopro mounts (i dont have gopro, I have an ION, but use gorpro mounts and adapter for my camera) I like because its just a thumb screw and done. No rubber band to fight or have break or anything. Plus get Vanc's cool finned mount to help keep the light cool, which is for gopro mounts only. I can also release the clip on the base of the mount for my helmet so just the adhesive plate remains. Bars check out ssx3 thread, I posted my set up there except I have to make a gopro bar adapter mount since nothing is set up for small 22mm tubes. RIght now I have the ssx3 on its normal mount with extra rubber under it so it doesnt flop around.



mountainking: I have more than just the yinding, I have a KD 2 and a solarstorm X3, with a nitefighter bt40 on the way. I have 2 solarstorm battery cases and now a fenix case as well.



Yinding: $30

KD2 w/battery pack: $34

ss X3: $25

incoming nitefighter bt40: $25

ss cases $25 I think for both

Fenix case: $11



Gopro mount kit: $10 (but that wasnt just for my lights

Gopro heat sink mount for Yinding/KD2: $18

Same style mount but bigger for ss x3 (custom made) : $28



Remote switch: $7 each on ebay

All the other stuff as I have upgraded them internally I cant say because I do this work of upgrading for fun/hobby. I know its not much money, most of it is my time doing the work. Remote switch you cant buy it for the light, you have to buy a push-to-talk remote adapter button then cut the end off and install on switch inside the light, see the KD 2 thread for that, I posted pics. 



But i can say all this stuff, batteries etc, and Im still NOT at the cost of a "real" Duo light head yet, not anywhere close.


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## upstateSC-rider (Dec 25, 2003)

Received an email from May about sending out replacement plates.
Like someone else mentioned, a coupon will be posted to each person's account and then you order and pay with that coupon.
She also mentioned something about it still costing a penny due to their billing system...I'm fine with that as long as I can start night-riding by October or November. 
Not holding my breath, though.


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

tigris99 said:


> Yinding: $30
> ss cases $25 I think for both
> Fenix case: $11
> Gopro mount kit: $10 (but that wasnt just for my lights
> ...


*Direct costs:*
Yinding: $30
Fenix case: $11
Remote switch: $7 each on ebay
*Sub Total: $48*

*Shared costs (allocated)*
Gopro mount kit: *$3* (but that wasnt just for my lights
Gopro heat sink mount for Yinding/KD2: *$9*
*Estimated shared costs: $12*

*Total yinding Cost estimate: $60*

Thanks for the costs. It would have ended up not being that a bargain for me I suppose with those associated costs and modding skills involved. Makes the incoming Fenix BC30 @ $70 a sweet deal for me. Had to stretch my budget though


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## eTrex_FSR (Dec 18, 2009)

upstateSC-rider said:


> Received an email from May about sending out replacement plates.
> Like someone else mentioned, a coupon will be posted to each person's account and then you order and pay with that coupon.
> She also mentioned something about it still costing a penny due to their billing system...I'm fine with that as long as I can start night-riding by October or November.
> Not holding my breath, though.


Same to me. She also replied to me yesterday and today I had the coupon in my account. Hope the boards will arrive without damage in some weeks.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Mountainking7 said:


> *Direct costs:*
> 
> Yinding: $30
> 
> ...


Ya that's an awesome light, but big self contained light head too heavy for helmet use. Looks to be a great bar light though.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*Another happy Vancbiker/Yinding customer*









Happy to report vancbiker's finned gopro style bike light mount/heatsink works very well (looks good too). Here's the results of last nights indoor thermal tests.

Elapsed time from cold light to thermal step down (No airflow/light on high):

Stock mount - 3:58 / Finned mount - 5:28

Light-head case temp. after 30 min. (Airflow - fan/light on high):

Stock mount - 121.6° / finned mount - 114.2°

Something unusual/interesting that I noted while taking the temp. readings was that one side of the light always ran hotter. The side with the control button and powercord always ran at least 10° warmer (light was centered in front of the fan pointing straight at it). Anybody have any idea what would cause this?
Mole


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Button and cable don't conduct the heat very well so they don' dissipate the heat away. Another thing can rely inside on the driver - hot mosfet for example.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

ledoman said:


> Button and cable don't conduct the heat very well so they don' dissipate the heat away. Another thing can rely inside on the driver - hot mosfet for example.


Thanks! I feel like testing some of my other lights or at least the Duo since that's what the Yinding was cloned from to see if I get a similar result.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I would be thinking too the big rubber grommet/wire on that side interfering with a bit of air flow and heat transmission through the case?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Thanks for the reply. I'm surprised that that would make that much of a difference even at the front of the light away from the grommet but externally it's the only thing different.
Whatever it is the Duo does exactly the same thing.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya I really think, as I think more, its a combination of what ledoman said, components on that side of driver then the grommet/wire blocking air flow and heat transmission through the case. Think of it like a stream, even a single rock that seems insignificant, but goes from bottom to above water forces water to move around it if its too tall to go over. The heat has to be able to travel, and add in the extra heat from the driver and diverted air flow, heat is going to build on that side of the case more.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Well I just pulled the trigger on a blue one. Hope to see what all the hype is about. Luckily I'm not pressed for time as I have a million lights but I'm impatient lol


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

MRMOLE said:


> View attachment 980213
> 
> 
> Happy to report vancbiker's finned gopro style bike light mount/heatsink works very well (looks good too). Here's the results of last nights indoor thermal tests.
> ...


Nice observation MrM. That's a significant difference ( in temperature ) when it comes to running the lamp on high for extended periods. I think if I plan on running one of these on the bars I might op for the "Vancbiker" Gopro mount.

( Lime green helmet...interesting.  )


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Cat-man-do said:


> Nice observation MrM. That's a significant difference ( in temperature ) when it comes to running the lamp on high for extended periods. I think if I plan on running one of these on the bars I might op for the "Vancbiker" Gopro mount.
> 
> ( Lime green helmet...interesting.  )


Vancbikers' mount is a nice light accessory that I look forward to trying on some of my other lights. I also ordered a small aluminium bar mount off Amazon that I should receive by the end of nest week. If it helps reduce temps more I'll post the numbers but definately I'll post a pic. "Lime green helmet", it matches the lime green accents on my Kona and my lime green POC gloves.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Mole, at least im not the only one. Blue helmet, blue bonty gloves and a well my bike lol.... That's why I want a blue yinding, TO MATCH


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## Belse (Apr 16, 2013)

Has anyone ordered the replacement LED board for 3C? I revieved a coupon code to order two for my lights but I get an error message every time I try to pay for the order, (and it`s not my card that doesn`t work)... I`ve emaild Gearbest but hasn´t recieved a response yet...


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## eTrex_FSR (Dec 18, 2009)

Belse said:


> Has anyone ordered the replacement LED board for 3C? I revieved a coupon code to order two for my lights but I get an error message every time I try to pay for the order, (and it`s not my card that doesn`t work)... I`ve emaild Gearbest but hasn´t recieved a response yet...


I already ordered my 2 with the coupon through PayPal. Order went through.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

MRMOLE said:


> ......Stock mount - 121.6° / finned mount - 114.2°


Did you use any thermal conductive paste between the adapter and light body?


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

MRMOLE what do you use to measure the temperatures?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> Did you use any thermal conductive paste between the adapter and light body?


No, I've yet to pick some up. What would you recommend?
Mole


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

varider said:


> MRMOLE what do you use to measure the temperatures?










Mole


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Do you aim it at a particular spot?

Thanks


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Mole, same thing i gotta remember to pick up. And I use artic silver, probably overkill but ita the best there is, and $8 for a tiny tube.

Var there is a laser pointer u use to aim.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Varider,
All you do is pull and release the trigger to turn it on<select C or F with the button @ the bottom < pull the trigger again and point the laser dot where you want to check the temp. As long as you hold the trigger on it will continue to take readings so you can cover the whole light-head and it saves the max reading for you (bottom display).
Mole


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

MRMOLE said:


> No, I've yet to pick some up. What would you recommend?
> Mole


The Arctic products are supposedly the best and if I am using thermal adhesive, that is what I use. For just paste, I have a 25 year old tube that the label is long gone. Stuff lasts forever since you only use a tiny bit.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Vancbiker said:


> The Arctic products are supposedly the best and if I am using thermal adhesive, that is what I use. For just paste, I have a 25 year old tube that the label is long gone. Stuff lasts forever since you only use a tiny bit.


Till your like me and take crap apart 10 times and get it all over your hands 

Also, seems yinding has some new stuff in the works, dont know what yet but was told they are expanding, well see what pops up.


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## Belse (Apr 16, 2013)

eTrex_FSR said:


> I already ordered my 2 with the coupon through PayPal. Order went through.


Gearabest has answered and told me that I had to place a new order and try again so I`ve cancelled the foirst one and now the coupn code doesn`t work anymore, crap. I should never had bought theese lights...


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Hey lights themselves regardless of tint are worth it. And changing emitters is really easy. 

If its a big deal, just email them again about it. Its a simple error on the website, not a big deal.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Testing . . . testing. I'm unable to see any new posts after MRMOLE's post with the pic of his temp. gun showing 81.6 degrees. I do see some sort of weird blank drop-down menu box at the very end of his text. Perhaps this is a clue as to why I can't see any more? I can't see newer posts on my phone (Chrome) nor my Windows desktop (Firefox). 

EDIT - weird! Now I can see my new post (on a new page in the thread - page 68 for me), but if I go back a page it still ends at MRMOLE's post #1671! It's not showing me posts #1672 thru 1675!

-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah same here. Thought it might have had something to do with my mobile carrier too because when I'm on LTE, email links to new posts have been taking me to the penultimate page in the thread instead. DSL is down again here so can't compare. Could also be some bug in V-Bulletin, seems a lot of forum sites are reluctant ever to update, in the belief it would only make them more vulnerable to attacks. Kinda question this notion but IANAITG.

On a lighter note, GearBest might have shipped my Yinding! And they might not have. email message says they sent the head strap that they told me was out of stock, and Remaining Items to be Shipped: [Neutral White Yinding, Black] while Invoice shows anodized Blue Yinding as well as head strap, both valued at half the price paid. Still waiting for them to send replacement for SS X3 that arrived broken and for which I had paid extra insurance.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

MRMOLE I thought that thing measures temperatures at a very small spot. So I was just wondering were on the light you point it at, the side, the top, or the front. I've never used one of these devices before. You must have put some weird html in your post because it looks somewhat messed up.

It looks like my NW blues are shipping out today. They sent out tracking number for SGDHL Airmail, which tracks on this page:
DHL | China | English

It was a free shipping option


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Wow their sending them DHL express for free???? I know when you pay for express shipping you get DHL in a week (how I usually order).

I think they are trying really hard to make everything right by everyone.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

It's DHL, but I don't think it's express. They recently changed their shipping options, so maybe the didn't have the prices set correctly when I ordered. I remember it said 5-10 business days.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Hmm, I just did an order I got last week, maybe that's the "standard shipping" not sure. The one time I chose free they shipped the POSTNL way.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

varider said:


> MRMOLE I thought that thing measures temperatures at a very small spot. So I was just wondering were on the light you point it at, the side, the top, or the front. I've never used one of these devices before. You must have put some weird html in your post because it looks somewhat messed up.
> 
> It looks like my NW blues are shipping out today. They sent out tracking number for SGDHL Airmail, which tracks on this page:
> DHL | China | English
> ...


If what you see on my last post is what I see it's definitely messed up and most of the post was cut off. What got covered up was an explanation of how to use the meter so I'll try again.

Pulling and releasing the trigger turns the led display on the back of the meter on. The button below the led display allows you to chose C° or F°. Pull and hold the trigger again and a laser dot is activated so where ever it's pointed it displays the temp. As long as you hold the trigger on it continues to take readings so you can run the laser pointer all over the light-head. Top display is the current temp measurement, bottom display is the max temp for the period the trigger was held on.

As for what happened on the post, I haven't got a clue. It looked fine when I previewed it but when I went back a hour or so later I saw the corrupt post. I contacted an administrator but haven't herd anything back. At least it seem OK now that we're on a new page. What ever I did, Sorry guys!
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

This thread has been messing up for ppl, garry is missing like 5 posts of this thread for no reason.

Aight I should have my blue one, another ss case and second fenix case here next week ( ya gearbest fixed everything).


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Thanks for the explanation!


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

MRMOLE said:


> ......As for what happened on the post, I haven't got a clue. It looked fine when I previewed it but when I went back a hour or so later I saw the corrupt post. I contacted an administrator but haven't herd anything back. At least it seem OK now that we're on a new page. What ever I did, Sorry guys!
> Mole


@Mole, In the corrupted post, the text ends with"turn it on" and then there is a down arrow like one sees for a "pull down" menu. The arrow is non-functional as far as I can tell. When I first saw it I thought "that's cool". Can you edit the post? If so delete everything after "on". Maybe that will fix things.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Hey Vancbiker,
Along with most of the text in that post the "Edit Post" tool is covered up and I know of no other way to change a post. At this point it doesn't seem to be hurting anything so I think I'm just going to let it go. Thanks for the help.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok I found that mess, WTF Mole???? LOL, well now we know what happened to the thread lmao. I know its broken for garry, I see what looks to be a partial screen shot of the bottom page numbers/quick reply box stuck to the bottom of your post. NOT SURE HOW YOU DID THAT BUT ITS AWESOME!!!


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Ok so I placed my gearbest order with regular shipping on the 11th, received shipment confirmation at 2:59 am today. So 3 days to ship isn't too bad. Can anyone confirm the shipping method? Not used to this furrin' stuff, to me it looks like it was shipped from the UK or something?


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## SlSto (Dec 4, 2013)

manbeer said:


> Ok so I placed my gearbest order with regular shipping on the 11th, received shipment confirmation at 2:59 am today. So 3 days to ship isn't too bad. Can anyone confirm the shipping method? Not used to this furrin' stuff, to me it looks like it was shipped from the UK or something?


That is odd. It does appear to be a UK tracking number. Have you tried Royal Mail's Track and Trace?


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Yeah it hasn't come up as live. Glad you see it too, seemed odd to me but maybe they are starting to stock some things in other countries to dispatch


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

That's a new one, usually they ship via POSTNL, seeing a UK tracking number.... That's new.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

And just the other day I saw one member had theirs shipped via dhl. Maybe they are testing out different shipping services


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

manbeer said:


> Ok so I placed my gearbest order with regular shipping on the 11th, received shipment confirmation at 2:59 am today. So 3 days to ship isn't too bad. Can anyone confirm the shipping method? Not used to this furrin' stuff, to me it looks like it was shipped from the UK or something?


On my order they created the shipping number, and took the picture of the label, and then it sat around for 2 or 3 days before the shipping company picked up the package.

Also the tracking page (dhl) says that I should have package on the 20th and they just picked it up today (the 15th). That would be amazing if I got it that quick


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Damn it, now I got all excited for nothing


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

DHL is fast, I usually pay for it just because its 3-5 days delivery time.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Now I know, if I'm happy with the yinding I may order a couple more and do dhl next time


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Oh I should specify, 3-5 days delivery after they pick it up, figure 1-3 days from order time till DHL gets it. I just got my DHL tracking for my blue yinding and a new tail light. My other stuff is on free shipping (so I could use promo code for another fenix case) but I don't need it quickly.


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

So funny you guys are talking about delivery times 

08-04-2015 04:53	The item is pre-advised - Not even reached sorting facility!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

You'll see "pre-advised" with PostNL until it hits Amsterdam. So it could be moving. Speaking of delivery times, I've had a heck of a long wait with my Fenix case. USPS must be setting packages aside and getting to them when they feel like it. My Fenix case hit ISC New York April 6th, then no more updates until today it shows departed USPS facility in Brooklyn, NY! 9 days to get out of NY??? 

-Garry


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

They were making sure it had no batteries in it. Probably called in the bomb squad. 18650 cells- the silent killer!


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

item1:
Date ordered Feb: 20, 2015 14:37:10 PM 
Departed sort facility: 22-Mar-2015 02:07 PM (not yet received)

item2:
Date ordered: Feb 26, 2015 13:16:58 PM 
Departed sort facility: 06-Mar-2015 11:19 AM (not yet received)
Gg


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Mountainking7 said:


> item1:
> Date ordered Feb: 20, 2015 14:37:10 PM
> Departed sort facility: 22-Mar-2015 02:07 PM (not yet received)
> 
> ...


Where r you because this isn't normal, for free basic shipping its a little over 2 weeks and half that is in the states. I did have an order from kaidomain that was shown to have been in postal service hands in china took a month to get to me for no reason. If your in the US it just depends on USPS as to whether or not package is scanned quickly and employees there dont want it's contents. That's why anything higher dollar (bike parts) I pay for DHL or other express shipping. People sorting and crap for postal service in customs seem to enjoy stealing stuff and finding some legitimate bs reason to keep it.


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

Replied via pm to stop derailing a great thread. Read every post of it. As the GCN Video of today would say... Epoc thread!


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Did any of you 5C guys received email from May, that 3C led plate will be sent in short time? Or did you all got store credit, to buy led plate from GB?

I was told (by May) that it will be sent to me, but since a week ago, I got no more information.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Contact may again, they were way behind cause of trying to fix all this with everyone now that they got yinding to start cooperating.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

GearBest now has a U.S. Warehouse for RC (http://www.gearbest.com/promotion-rc-quadcopters-us-warehouse-special-20.html). They say it will expand in the future, so hopefully include bike lights.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Sweet that would be awesome

Ffs though, quad copters cheap, lets not start rc helicopters again......i even mention them I think my wife will divorce me hehe.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I want a Hubsan Q4 :thumbsup:

What's better is no more Post NL!


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

GJHS said:


> GearBest now has a U.S. Warehouse for RC (http://www.gearbest.com/promotion-rc-quadcopters-us-warehouse-special-20.html). They say it will expand in the future, so hopefully include bike lights.


With a US warehouse, if they patch things up with Yinding, and of course with the SolarStrom lights, they could sell on Amazon, and Ebay, and move a lot of stock. A highly recommended, well built light, with quick US shipping would be killer. We see how many junk lights sell well on both Amazon and Ebay

If we managed to get someone to build something to spec, they could make a killing.

In essence, in the Custom Light thread, we were doing a marketing focus group for a desired product. Too bad Yinding didn't understand that.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya no kidding. I'll get on them about stocking US warehouse for us lol.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

Today I received 2 NW ledboards and a red NW Yinding. I layed the order 8th of april and got the shipment notice the 9th. It arrived to my postoffice in Stockholm (Sweden) yesterday. Picked it up this morning. Fastest ever!

Havn't had the time to test yet though...


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Something for the others that want a yinding to be a good helmet light and the guys that are over in BLF will fully understand this.

Last night yinding went haywire. Couldn't figure out why. Simply brought it in to run comparison/calibration for my new infrared thermometer. Tore it down checked everything I could. Could not find the problem to save my life. Was using my ss case that was giving me fits with the led indicator but was working fine. Finally after switching emitters, pcbs, checking and redoing every solder joint I decided to go grab my fenix case. Damn light was fine case is screwed up.

Well by this time it was 230 am, put the yinding back together in a bit of a hurry, made sure it worked and went to bed.

Noticed today that emitters weren't centered in optics. Went to fix it and noticed one dome was pushed to the side. Gently tried to fix it and it just popped off.

Summary: HOLY CRAP talk about a solid spot and stupid throw on the one emitter. Think I pissed neighbors off 2 blocks away (small town blocks) lol. 1 DE-DOMED (by stupid mistake) XM-L2 U2 and one not makes a beautiful spot with a bit of spread from the other untouched emitter.

Beam shot to come....

Here they are, couple are messed up had light head in front of camera and really close to it, camera didnt like it,lol.







And this one, look at the flag poles and reflective surface past them, somewhere around 80-90yrds out (never bothered to actually sort it the distance, its a local park that I decided to test tonight for this). Humidity is way up so bit hazy looking but you get the idea of the throw now.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yes it's known effect discussed many times over at BLF. It not just get more throw, it does get some tint shift towards warmer. Never tried it by myself. It can be good solution in a multi led lights to get more throw they are tipicaly lacking. For example if you have 7up, you dedome 3 of them and you would get mix of throw and spill. Mostly gasoline is used for dedoming. It's easy with single emitter, no so with multi unless you are dedoming all.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

thanks for the tip, I havent really researched it yet, just seen posts talking about it and looked up what it was, not really how to do. This was a COMPLETE accident but made my yinding exactly how I wanted it, and thought the haze was the extra yellow, but I was wrong there but it wasnt enough to bother me still matches my ss xc and my angel eye just fine.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

How did you dedome them? On the mudder I was angry and just pried them off with my nail and they looked perfect but I never ran it as I diassembked the rest of the light afterwards


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I accidently dedomed an LED with an optic while testing once. The optic wasn't made for an XML and was tight. The Led was a 5B1 tint so it got really warm after the dome ripped. 

Dedoming by soaking in gasoline is easy. The dome falls right off. Over at BLF they say to dedomed a 1A to end up with a nice neutral. There is a loss of lumens dedoming generally. The xp-l has been preferred lately for dedoming due to better tint results and less loss of lumens. And dedoming, as you discovered, creates a very intense hot spot and dims the spill.

-Garry


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Good to know that this is a viable option in an optic based setup as well. I knew that with reflectors it had that effect but wasn't sure how it carried over. If imagine this would benefit those of us looking to add some throw when using a yinding/KD 2 etc on the helmet

It could also be a nice neutral white conversion on a budget for cool white emitters lol


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya just have to be damn careful. Ive overheated an emitter (was cool white version I didn't care about) and the dome with tweezers when it had cooled and went to put it away. It took half the phosphor with it.

But now that I know how to...any light becomes a spot if i want lol. As for lumen loss, my yinding is up to 3A calculated anyway, the throw does so much more for me


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Surprisingly all I did was give a nice jab with my nail on the mudder and it came right off, looks like almost no phosphor came off either. When I first heard about dedoming it sounded like some kind of fancy elaborate process. Guess on some emitters it is but on mine I was surprised. Now if I had known more I wouldn't have removed them from the pcb


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well you heated it to remove it, so it probably softened the adhesive holding the dome. I have found dome comes right off after heating the piss outta things to pull them off pcbs. I may expirament with the couple other cw emitters I have cause gasoline obviously works but gasoline and electricity/heat... Worries me.


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## yourrealdad (May 17, 2012)

So I just picked up one of the black ones (don't know if there is a difference between the colors). Can anyone help me with a reasonable battery pack to go with it? (Was looking at Action LED's site, but if their are cheaper comparable packs that would be great)

I thought I was getting a kit, but it seems like they are out of those so I guess I just got a light only. Bummer.

Also I did get it to use as a helmet light to pair with this light which I bought for the bars:
Amazon.com : SecurityIng Waterproof 2800 Lumens XM-L U2 LED Bicycle Light 4 Modes Super Bright Lighting Lamp Bike Lamp Headlight with 8.4V Rechargeable Battery Pack and Charger for Camping, Cycling, Hiking, Riding - Black : Bike Headlights : Sports &

Anything I can easily do to make it a great helmet light?

Thanks and I read about 10 pages in each direction so 20 total. Sorry if this has been discussed at length somewhere in the 1000's of posts.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Hunk lee for the batteries or use your own cells with the fenix or solarstorm battery case.
The light really is good enough as it is for helmet use, you can use LEDNA 10degree lenses, but I read it makes a 10-15% difference. IMHO get your lights try it out and move from there.

Ise the search funtion on this thread for info on deals on lenses/batteries/chargers and such. Most importantly enjoy the ride and carry a spare tube on your first night ride, I made that mistake recently and had to glue a patch.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Yinding of you paid 33, its the light, 47 is the price for the kit.

Optics, leddna.com. The 20mm lenses that they show a pic of 15,45, and 60deg optics (the optics that are 10 degree with the lens holder built in sucks and doesn't fit right). Helmet get a set of 15s or a 15 and a 45.

Batteries as said, hunk lee or order a case and you can order top end Panasonic cells for cheap on amazon right now.


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## enFuego (Aug 1, 2007)

Work got busy since I received my "Neutral White" Lamp Head in early February, and I lost track of this matter of the replacement LED plates/boards getting sent out to folks like myself who got the 5C tint lamps. I read though the thread for the latest info. I checked my GB account to see if I was issued a credit to buy the correct 3C LEDs (nope). I hope that I haven't missed the boat! I have sent an email to May at GB, so I'll see what happens next...


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Breaking News! GearBest has decided to continue to carry and sell the Yinding!

I have been writing May, asking her to talk to her boss, showing her all your posts and telling them how popular it is for a couple of weeks. With that with and all your emails, they changed their minds.

The coupon "Yinding" is active again and is the lowest price on all colors. The other coupon "yindingnew" is higher and should be ignored.


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

Good to know GJHS! I might pick one up at a later stage  Thanks for informing!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

yA i just fixed all that, rep im dealing with is getting conflicting information lol. Im confirming it all as they are tlaking a discounted group buy again and such, but this time they have the heads in stock.


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

The new GB should include a working 2 battery case  4 is just too much of a hassle/heavy


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Mountainking7 said:


> The new GB should include a working 2 battery case  4 is just too much of a hassle/heavy


Grab that Fenix case while they are still available. it's worth the $11


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

While we are on the topic of the Yinding continuing, I had asked May about making a seperate Custom Driver people could buy for the Yinding. She said that they preferred the idea of a building a whole new light, so sounds as if the custom Yinding will start again.

Sorry if I've been quiet on the forum, the behind the scenes stuff hasn't stopped. Let's see if we can take this light to the top.


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Grab that Fenix case while they are still available. it's worth the $11


I heard that you cannot directly connect it to the yinding but you need some kind of 'connector' or something?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Mountainking7 said:


> I heard that you cannot directly connect it to the yinding but you need some kind of 'connector' or something?


Swapping the connector is super simple and the case is well built. Check out Archie's post on the thread.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Alright initial impressions of anodized blue light:



Better button, barely, they just changed the silicone button itself so slightly better but a longer pinned tact switch would have been alot better. Did that on my other yinding, silicone button and tact switch from kd2 driver.



Mount is WAY BETTER!!! Actually enough material for the tabs to have some actual strength.



They used silicone wire from diver to emitters! That wasn't on my black/previous version. Still 24awg wire but silicone is definitely an improvement.

Overall seems they fixed the quality issues fairly well. I can run this one having to fix things first. GREAT JOB on that fight GJHS!!!


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

So I take it then there was no change to the driver, you still have to cycle through Off between High and Low?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Not that far yet lol. I'll start my full report and testing tonight after work. My tool box just happened to still be in the house so I popped it apart quick.

Edit: Andy I ran out to garage to grab pack just to check for you. No driver is the same


----------



## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Oh, well. 

Thanks tigris.


----------



## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I just took delivery of my two NW blues. 

The driver is the same, but then again it wasn't supposed to be different. 

The mounts are a little different. The plastic tabs were the rubber band hooks is thicker and looks much sturdier. It looks to be about twice as thick (in the downward direction). The front hook (under the light) is also much deeper. I use the rubber band with the tabs. I've been putting the tab of the rubber light near the front, because if you put it in the back it interferes with the button/glove. With the deeper hook on the new mount it's much more difficult to pull the tab out. Not a huge deal though. 

The button seems nearly identical to me. 

The tint is definitely not cool white. I'm no tint expert so I probably couldn't tell if this is the 3C versus the 5C NW. I don't have anything to compare it to. 

By the way the free China DHL shipping that I got practically blasted the package across the planet. 
Last Wednesday - package picked up in Singapore (is Gearbest a Singaporean company?)
Friday - Package arrives in Hong Kong 
Saturday - Arrival in Cincinnati, OH
Monday - Package arrives in Richmond, VA and is driven one hour to my place. 

Crazy fast!

They were packaged in a padded envelope. No box.


----------



## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

They are 3c, neutral white (as specced).

The DHL thing I believe was a one time deal to get the preorders delivered, normally its like $13 for DHL express.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

tigris99 said:


> The DHL thing I believe was a one time deal to get the preorders delivered, normally its like $13 for DHL express.


You must be right, because the option is gone now.


----------



## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

varider said:


> By the way the free China DHL shipping that I got practically blasted the package across the planet. Crazy fast!


I bought a NW in black on Mar27, shipped on Mar28, no sign of it yet.

https://i.imgur.com/hvZEPiZ.png


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

patski said:


> I bought a NW in black on Mar27, shipped on Mar28, no sign of it yet.
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/hvZEPiZ.png


One of two things happened. First they may not have actually shipped the package yet and they just created a shipping number. Second, a Netherlands post package will disappear until the package reaches the Netherlands, then the package tracking starts. It will take to or three weeks to get from China to the Netherlands.

Also this is the best package tracking website for China/Malaysian packages
ALL-IN-ONE PACKAGE TRACKING

If nothing shows up there then it probably hasn't left yet.


----------



## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Yeah mine was showed as shipping Wednesday at 2:59 am via royal air mail but still no sign of it in their system. From what I've heard their tracking is pretty useless anyway though


----------



## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya tracking is huge hit and miss. And they usually take 3-5 days once u get your shipping email for it to be picked up by shipping company then 2-3 weeks to show up. They offer faster shipping if you want to pay for it. Still far better than other places, kaidomain makes sure to send you a shipping email asap, but my last order was actually sitting with inactive tracking for 2 weeks before they finally actually shipped it.


----------



## enFuego (Aug 1, 2007)

"GearBest will take care of the rest and provide 20 gift cards to use to buy the LED Plates for the other 5C people. May will contact you in the next few days to tell you how to get the gift card."
May did not contact me, so I sent her an email. She replied today, and stated everything has been given out. So not all of us who got the 5Cs in error got taken care of.
I'm disappointed about this, as I was led to believe that GB would be making good on all of the errors. 
Its still a very good light, its just not what was advertised.
I still appreciate all the work that GJHS and Dora did to make this whole thing come together.


----------



## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

tigris99 said:


> Ya tracking is huge hit and miss. And they usually take 3-5 days once u get your shipping email for it to be picked up by shipping company then 2-3 weeks to show up. They offer faster shipping if you want to pay for it. Still far better than other places, kaidomain makes sure to send you a shipping email asap, but my last order was actually sitting with inactive tracking for 2 weeks before they finally actually shipped it.


On my first light, I chose free shipping and it took about 24 days...order to arrival. On my second one, I chose the cheapest shipping...standard, I think it's called. $9. It arrived in 9 days. $1 a day!! I felt it was worth it, and I'd pay the $9 again if I ordered another one.


----------



## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

enFuego said:


> I just got an email from May, and shucks, I missed out on the 3C replacement boards to fix the 5C problem. GB only got a limited number of 3C boards for the fix, so not all of us who got the 5Cs in error would get taken care of. I'm disappointed about this, as it seemed that GB would be making good on all of the errors.
> Its still a very good light, its just that the tint is not what was advertised.
> When all is said and done, I'm still happy that GJHS, Dora, and May made this whole thing come together, so that I could get one of these little marvels of a bike headlamp for a relatively small price. :yesnod:


Give me a day to see what I can do. If not and you're in the U.S., I can send you mine, I haven't swapped it yet.


----------



## enFuego (Aug 1, 2007)

Thank you GJHS, you have already put so much of you time into this project. Now you are going above and beyond. I appreciate your help with this.


----------



## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

enFuego said:


> "GearBest will take care of the rest and provide 20 gift cards to use to buy the LED Plates for the other 5C people. May will contact you in the next few days to tell you how to get the gift card."
> May did not contact me, so I sent her an email. She replied today, and stated everything has been given out. So not all of us who got the 5Cs in error got taken care of.
> I'm disappointed about this, as I was led to believe that GB would be making good on all of the errors.
> Its still a very good light, its just not what was advertised.
> I still appreciate all the work that GJHS and Dora did to make this whole thing come together.


I had some trouble getting the replacement board also. I think its been ok'd a few days ago and they will ship it without me having to order it. I hope they still have replacement boards for you. Gina at customer service mentioned RMAing it so maybe yinding is stepping up. I have a feeling they'll send it you eventually.

GJHS and I tried the 5C and 3C yindings on the trail on a night ride. The light output wasn't noticeably different like we had previously thought. The 5C looked a bit more diffuse, and the obvious tint difference. Overall not bad if you aren't mixing tints. Mixing cool white and 5C might look weird. 3C and 5C mixed wasn't bad.


----------



## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

GearBest is still selling the 3C replacement boards. Cree XM - L2 3C LED Emitter for Yinding Headlamp ( 5000 - 5500K )-7.10 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com Guess they just received a limited number from Yinding as give always, but at least they seem otherwise to be in stock.

Don't care myself, actually kinda prefer the 5C YD that I received over any of 3C lamps I've bought, it's more effective at illuminating the earth tones that dominate during the shorter days of the year. Also found that aiming a 5C and 3C together creates a light whiter looking than either alone. And even when vertically disaligned a tad, so as to create continuous low and high beams, they still blend together well enough that the difference in tints is not bothersome. If my reflowing skilz were up to par, when my new 3C YD comes in I'd be tempted to swap out one emitter each between that and my 5C so as to have a pair of 3C/5C Yindings.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok enFuego, done. PM me for how to get your LED plate. I noticed since we last spoke that you edited your post from understanding to displeasure, I apologize for the headache and delay. Yinding made a big mess for GearBest to clean and I applaud their effort to make it right. Luckily the wrong tint batch was small and now all is fixed.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Well, I still dont know if I am getting 3C plate or not. Didnt get any credit to buy it from GB, and didnt get any confirmation that they 
sent the plate to me...

A few days ago I contacted May, but no answer...


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

I tried to order my two plates and it's been a failure so far. 
The site created the order at $0.01. 
It wouldn't process my card to make the payment. 
Edward was the customer assistance person assigned to my order. 
He couldn't find a way to move my order forward. I've asked May to help out.

Here's some of the effort since the order was placed on April 10th.---






Support center >> Ask a question >> Order Payment Questions List 



Ticket: T50292201533 
Order Number: W150410061848**** 
Message Type: After-sale Order Enquiries /Order Tracking 
Subject: Order Payment 
Message: Your site will not let me use my Master Card to pay for this invoice. 
It does not let me choose Pay Pal or credit card through Pay Pal to make payment. 
Please advise. 
Thank you, 

Gearbest Customer Support　 At :04/14/2015 12:26:18 AM 

Thank you for your reply. 

This is the special order, Can you try to make the payment through pay-pal directly? 

Best Regards 
Edward 

At :04/14/2015 03:33:18 AM 
Send me another one time coupon code, please and I will try to pay through Paypal on your site. 
Alternatively I can submit an order at full price and you can give me a refund. 
Thanks, 

Gearbest Customer Support　 At :04/15/2015 01:02:10 AM 

Thank you for your reply. 

Actually you can pay it again, Please check your website account" MY orders", then you can pay for it. 

Best Regards 
Edward 

At :04/15/2015 04:21:45 AM 

This is the message your site gives me.
"We’re sorry, we weren’t able to confirm your card information. If your information was entered correctly and you’re still having trouble, try paying with your credit or debit card through PayPal. We also accept payment using Western Union or wire transfer. For assistance, please contact us through Email."

There is no route for me to use Paypal to make this payment. 
There is no link to take me to a Paypal option at this point. 
I saw one earlier in the payment selection process. I cannot reach that now. 
Send me a new coupon code and I will order my two plates again and use the Paypal option on the new order. This order can them be cancelled 
Thank you, 

Gearbest Customer Support　 At :04/15/2015 10:43:38 PM 

Thank you for your reply. 

Simply go to your account, Then you can cancel the unpaid order W1504100618481959. You still can use the original coupon code. Please rest assure. 

Best Regards 
Edward 

At :04/16/2015 06:30:30 AM 
Cancel this order and I will try to use the coupon again. 
Thank you, 


Gearbest Customer Support　 At :04/16/2015 11:29:26 PM 

Thank you for your reply. 

Cuz it's Waiting for payment, I can't cancel it on our system, Please note that you are can cancel an unpaid order. Simply go to your account: a "delete" button will appear beside the order number three days after the date the order was placed. 

Best Regards 
Edward 

At :04/17/2015 05:36:31 AM 
No delete button is next to the order number on either location where the order number appears. 
Why not just send me the two plates? 
This site malfunction is preventing you from correcting the problem with my earlier purchase and shouldn't be allowed to interfere with your customer service. 
Thanks, 


Gearbest Customer Support　 At :04/17/2015 11:07:43 PM 

Thank you for your reply. 

Sorry I have no right give you the code, Please delete the order as the picture shows. 

Best Regards 
Edward 
attachment 1 

At :04/18/2015 04:04:08 AM 
I've cancelled the order. 
I tried to reorder the two correct replacement plates. 
I entered my coupon code. 
I received this message with no change in the price. 
"The Promotion Code can only be used 1 time per customer account." 
Your message to me earlier was, 
"You still can use the original coupon code. Please rest assure." 
Please advise. 
Thank you, 

Gearbest Customer Support　 At :04/20/2015 08:25:28 AM 

Thank you for your reply. 

Can you tell me where did you get this code? I can offer you a coupon code for 6% if you need it now, If you can tell me where did you get this code, I'll try to apply a new one for you. 

Best Regards 
Edward 

How much longer this goes on I have no idea.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

There's something wrong with ur account only or your internet browser not loading page correctly, there is always a PayPal link at bottom of cart screen and checkout screen when u go through via your account. The coupon code is simply a coupon code, ive used them no issues even when it processes for a penny (which for some reason there is always 1 penny owed). Worked fine for me last night.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

tigris99 said:


> There's something wrong with ur account only or your internet browser not loading page correctly, there is always a PayPal link at bottom of cart screen and checkout screen when u go through via your account. The coupon code is simply a coupon code, ive used them no issues even when it processes for a penny (which for some reason there is always 1 penny owed). Worked fine for me last night.


This is what I saw---

Payment Method

PayPal The safer, easier way to pay.

Pay by credit card via PayPal

Pay by credit card directly Pay On-line by Credit Card, we accept Visa, MasterCard and more secure payments.

Pay by BitCoin

I used the credit card direct method. It has worked for all my past purchases. It didn't work and I couldn't Back page to choose the PayPal credit card method.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

It came today. It's a cute/small unit. Haven't opened it yet...

Not to be a complainer but I guess "lighthead only" means no O Rings....

Fortunately I have a box of O Rings from all my dead chinese(sic) lights... 



patski said:


> I bought a NW in black on Mar27, shipped on Mar28, no sign of it yet. https://i.imgur.com/hvZEPiZ.png


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## Belse (Apr 16, 2013)

eb1888 said:


> This is what I saw---
> 
> Payment Method
> 
> ...


I had the same problem when I tried to pay with my card, support told me to pay with Paypal instead but I couldn`t select Paypay because I`ve already selected to pay with my card and I couldn`t go back to change that so the support told me to cancel the order and place another one but when I did that the coupn code didn`t work anymore. I tried both the support and May to activate the code again, but after a couple of days I recieved a new code from May so I tried again and tjis time I selected to pay with Paypal and now it worked. I think that they have some kind of glitch intheir card payment system because I used the sam account and the same card that I used tha last time on their website, and I have used my card at several other places so it`s not my card that is the problem... Anyway, the LED boards are on their way in the mail now so I should have them here soon...


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

patski said:


> It came today. It's a cute/small unit. Haven't opened it yet...
> 
> Not to be a complainer but I guess "lighthead only" means no O Rings....
> 
> ...


Usually it comes with the orings, all my "head only" ones always have. I literally have a zip lock bag full of orings now lol, cause I use mostly gopro mounts.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok here is my "review" of the updated Anodized yindings:

Mostly same as old one obviously for the basic stuff. Easy to Mod, or in this case transfer mods from black one. Great little light regardless.

My findings on the updated parts:

Mount is MUCH BETTER!!! Not only thicker, but also not that cheap brittle plastic we normally see. Huge improvement there. Id have to use pliers to break the tab off unlike the old one that you looked at wrong and it snapped off.

The button.....the button...GJHS put so much fight into that....And what we got was barely better. Difference is that you dont have to push button down into the inside of the case to get it to click. Doesnt stick out any further or anything like that, just button doesnt take so much hassle to push. Sorry cant lie on that, I have 2 yindings sitting here and I reverted my black one back to the old switch/silicone button to actually check the difference because it wasnt visual.

I dont recall this in the first one (black one) but wires from driver to emitter are now silicone as well. Still 24awg but its a good step.

Except the button, which I personally could care less at this point since mine is now wired with remote switch to side of helmet, Im STILL IN LOVE with this light.

It NOW has my noctigon mod with 1 dedomed emitter (getting switch to a XM-L2 U3 1A cause 3C dedomed is REALLY yellow), resistor mod so high is 3A calculated before losses, remote switch, magicshine 20AWG battery cable, LEDDNA optics, and Vanc's Gopro mount.

With my mods I did notice something, I had issues getting 16mm noctigons to stay where I wanted them (centered) on black case as screws that hold case together also hold emitter plate(s) down. With black case each time I would try to tighten down at center, screw hole seems to be just at the right spot to push the star inwards towards center of case, instead of clamping it down. Was a fight each time I had to open it up. This blue one, I dont know why, went together perfectly (like shown in the beginning of this thread). Went together like it was meant to be instead of having to fight and hold each plate, try to tighten just right but couldnt pull backing plate in flush. Now it just all works perfectly.

Pics:







(Going to Load up and head out to park to do some pics of the 2 side by side in the open, see who i piss off,lol)


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

I'm liking the blue yindings beam shot more....The modded has too bright a hotspot for me


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well my modded is dedomed 3c emitters (not totally intentional) but wanted to see if I could increase the spot characteristics/increase throw. I have some XM-L2 U3 1A on the way which SHOULD offset lumen loss and be very close to 3C tint after Dedoming.

Here is the effects of Modded on helmet, Regular on bars:


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

That's a nice looking light. Wish mine would come already, the shipping info was sent to me 9 days ago but still no sign of it in the tracking system. It could very well be in its way and royal mail's crappy tracking that is causing it though.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Question: is there enough people interested in a Custom Yinding Driver to replace the original driver? I think we can start up the custom light build and GearBest prefers a light over just a driver build, yet if we can guarantee 200, maybe we can change their minds.

Which do you prefer?
A. Driver Only
B. Light 
C. Both


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

So a new custom driver for the Yinding dual AND a new custom triple Yinding? It seems like we should do one thing or the other. 

Personally I'm probably done buying the Yinding dual. I have three of them. I would rather put any future money towards a triple Yinding. I might buy a new programmable driver, but I may also skip it altogether.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

Hmmm
I really liked that idea with a programmable driver with a feature that if two levels are the same they count as one level. Many drivers have too many levels in my opinion...


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Question: is there enough people interested in a Custom Yinding Driver to replace the original driver? I think we can start up the custom light build and GearBest prefers a light over just a driver build, yet if we can guarantee 200, maybe we can change their minds.
> 
> Which do you prefer?
> A. Driver Only
> ...


Needs a poll on a new thread IMH(and useless)O


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

I'd be fine with a driver with hidden Off. Don't see the need for the 10 mode KD thingy, at 2200mAh it's not like the Yinding has such tremendous range of brightness it needs any further subdividing.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I say a new pole thread too.



But im with the other guys, I have 2 yindings and a serious pile of lights starting. But the though of a couple 3x yindings, that's drool worthy.



Honestly programmable is cool, but no reason to mess with current yinding. Be nice if they hid the on/off though. 



I'm not even being picky myself, 3x head with good mount, proper button, 3c emitters, and proper wire size for battery cable and driver to emitter. Be good enough for me. Oh and keep the yinding case design with a solid wall between emitter PCB and driver. Yinding and bt40 (oh and my angel eye) are the only lights ive had that have it right. Forget pills, the single PCB for all emitters works just fine with the solid "wall" behind it.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Well looks like they are stepping up their shipping game. I guess it's just royal mail's tracking that sucks. I used one of those universal package trackers and found that my package was actually transferred to usps and was departing Brooklyn today, presumably to be delivered tomorrow or monday. That makes my shipping about 2 weeks


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Nice, I got postnl regular not even registered on my last order so god knows when mine will ever show up lol.

On better note. Got my l2 u3 1a emitters in today. Perfect dedome on it (after I trashed 2 low grade cw emitters to figure it out). Have to say HOLY CRAP!!! Good dedome with leddna 15deg optics (I tried stock first, leddna is VERY NOTICABLE OUTPUT INCREASE) and great tint. With the 3c regular one one side it on the other no strong hot spot but throw is ridiculous. And that's on the "stock" yinding PCB. I got one care and one on noctigon, next up is noctigon one for my helmet light. Me and son when riding will be seen for MILES lol.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Tigris, which leddna optics exactly did you use? There are two types, ones with holders and the others w/o. The ones with holder should have 10, 25, 45 and 60 degres.
What was dedoming method you used? And finaly what was tint change with dedomed 1A if you compare it to 3C?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

The ones with 15-45-60 options, I have some of the eliptical versions too. I tried the junk with holders...they suck. Worse than stock kd2 optics.

The ones I get are what they use I the duo/glowworm, same exact ones just 1/10th the price.

As for tint change. Outside I didn't notice one, on a white wall, its noticably more yellow but not a big difference. I wouldn't have even known to check till Andy put his thread up and figured I should check. Yinding stock optics also make the light obviously more yellow besides just becoming useless with a dedomed emitter.

For method, so far its only way that doesn't take overnight but produces same and consistent results. Combined 2 methods. Heat and crush then gas/ air.

Heated the PCB as if going to remove/change emitter. Once emitter solder started to release (see it where contact expands past emitter base) I removed heat, let set for a few secs let solder re-harden. Then used pliers to gently smash dome against emitter base till the dome blew out all around. Gently used tweezers to remove main chunk. Left with .25-.5mm of silicone covering entire emitter base. 

Then into gasoline for 35-45mins (based on how thick remaining silicone dome was remaining)

Removed, rinsed with rubbing alcohol, have a little plastic tool for replacing cell phone screens I use to gently knock away any big chunks that my be clinging a little. Blew on the emitter a couple times, rinse with alcohol again. Then more air just to speed up alcohol evaporating.

Both xm-l2 u3 emitters came out picture perfect. Only silicone remaining was around wires for emitter plate, rest is clean.

Will probably get some LED seal at some point but I want to test this in the field to know its worth $15 for a can (worth dedoming emitters as needed)


----------



## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Also now I could do a head to head test (leddna second optics shipment arrived today too).

22 vs 20awg battery cables since mine are rather short dont seem to matter much. Noctigons vs stock aluminum PCB want to say roughly 10% maybe a hair higher gain on high (3A calculated before losses). Notice a tiny bit on medium, same on low, but noticeable on high between my 2 now identical except emitter PCBs, yindings.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Thanks for explanations. Why the others leddna lenses with holder are no good? I use them most of the time without problems.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Light with driver. Incidentally, KD driver comes with switch with longer button. If YD can get the right silicone cover, the button problem is solved.



GJHS said:


> Question: is there enough people interested in a Custom Yinding Driver to replace the original driver? I think we can start up the custom light build and GearBest prefers a light over just a driver build, yet if we can guarantee 200, maybe we can change their minds.
> 
> Which do you prefer?
> A. Driver Only
> ...


----------



## upstateSC-rider (Dec 25, 2003)

tigris99 said:


> Where r you because this isn't normal, for free basic shipping its a little over 2 weeks and half that is in the states. I did have an order from kaidomain that was shown to have been in postal service hands in china took a month to get to me for no reason. *If your in the US it just depends on USPS as to whether or not package is scanned quickly and employees there dont want it's contents. That's why anything higher dollar (bike parts) I pay for DHL or other express shipping. People sorting and crap for postal service in customs seem to enjoy stealing stuff and finding some legitimate bs reason to keep it.*


As a postal worker I can promise you, I, or any of my co-workers, definitely do not want your contents. The problem is that consumers want everything faster, better, and more importantly, cheaper. Vendors want sales and know that the word "free" sends most people into a frenzy.
As far as the post office, conveyors are designed to carry regulation-sized packages. I suspect these large mailers get massive discounts based on quantity...Throw your LED's, pills, and drivers into a package that is 1/4 the size of a ziploc sandwich bag and 1/2" thick and you can probably fit thousands into a standard shipping container. 
I walked the workroom floor and took a couple of pics to illustrate. The small packages probably fall through the gaps and onto safety guards and found when normal maintenance is performed. 
The fix is using larger packages (more expensive for the seller) or to re-design thousands of conveyors currently in use (more expensive for the shipper)...Either way, not gonna happen.
When I buy something small from GB or any of the other Asian retailers I try to add something inexpensive but large so a larger package is used but I didn't have that option with the replacement 3c boards.
Adding an inexpensive 18650 flashlight or the like has always worked for me.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Dude I wasn't referring to post office's. Talking customs intake. I have had several packages over the years hit intake port, show there and that's where ot stops, never to be seen again. Been a big problem. I talked to a supervising customs officer at Chicago's customs intake at one point, and wad flat out told by her it was a problem. They knew about it bit its hard to fix till they catch person(s) involved.

As my post said before, it refers to customs because I know 100% for sure it happens. Once it gets to actual USPS, all is fine. Gotta survive customs first. 

But ya people are ridiculous about shipping time, act like 2 yr olds.


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

Need to have CCTV inside sorting rooms


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*Yinding vs Gloworm X2 (Thermal properties)*


Last night I was checking out if my new alloy GoPro style bar mount (Amazon) made any difference in the running temp of my Yinding (only 1°) and thought I'd compare it to my GW X2.

1) I retested the running temp of my stock Yinding vs external modified Yinding (Vancbiker finned GoPro style mount set up "Tigris style"/fins front facing and alloy GoPro style bar mount) and go a 15° temp drop.

2) Modified Yinding vs X2, both lights on highest setting the X2 ran slightly cooler (2.7°).

3) To be fair since the X2 makes a lot more power (191 vs 136 lux using same optics) I backed the X2 down to the 70% setting (146 measured lux) and the retest netted a full 13° lower temp than the modified Yinding.

I'm happy with the 15° running temp drop I got with the external modifications and anticipate it will be just enough to get me through 100° ride temps. For those who want to design a better Yinding I think a better thermal designed case should be further up on the list (see pics).

Amazon alloy mount








Yinding fin design








More efficient Gloworm fin design (surface area rules!)








Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

X2 ^^^. More surface area. The glowworm case is actually slightly larger then more fins/cut deeper from the looks of it.

In fairness I bet MY yinding will outshine a glowworm any day


----------



## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

MRMOLE said:


> More efficient Gloworm fin design (surface area rules!)
> View attachment 984165
> 
> 
> Mole


Thin fins with round bottoms win all the time.

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-d...ose-captured-lumens-538590-2.html#post5995583


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> In fairness I bet MY yinding will outshine a glowworm any day


That's cool, how much extra power do you think your modified Yinding makes compared to stock.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

500mah, ~10-15% with noctigons and another ~5-10% using same optics as glowworm. About to do video of of riding paved path with ssx3 bars, yinding lid as l2 u3 1a dedomed made a huge improvement over u2 3c dedomed. I leave 1 3c normal and one dedomed emitter. Nice spot, great throw, but smooth transition thnx to regular 3c on 15deg leddna/glowworm optic


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Just out of curiosity I tried my mudder/kd2 against my older x2 (xm-l u2) and they were pretty close in terms of output. The x2 has a flood/spot setup so I'd imagine that if it was xm-l2 with dual spots it would be a different story. I wonder how many amps it draws. The x2 sheds heat oh so nicely though


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

OK going to take a while, so Ill get it shared tomorrow, but went out a bit ago (just got back) made a short video with modded ssx3 and modded yinding in action. Yinding is REDICULOUS now. phone was almost dead so couldnt get a picture (well quality beam shot) but its far better than previous pic of dedoming mod. Actual 3C tint instead of really yellow, more light, more throw. Cant wait for the l2 U4 1Cs to come in with mtnelectronics  another 10-12% outta the dedommed side hehe.

Edit: Heres the video


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## upstateSC-rider (Dec 25, 2003)

Received my replacement 3C boards today and installed one of them. It'll be Oct/Nov before I do any significant night-riding but the dark room test gives me a lot of hope and shows a significant difference, at least to me.

Before re-assembly I did the plastic tie-wrap mod around the cable as Archie mentioned earlier.
I also took the opportunity to look at the switch and ended up cutting up 2 small circular discs from milk cartons and putting them inside the silicone (exterior) button and switch...Much easier to push with gloves on.

Thanks again to GJHS for setting up the group buy and following through with the fix.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

May is now taking care of the BLF forum and we have a new rep. Netefari is now taking care of MTBR, she is really nice and ready to get to work and get some new exciting products. Email [email protected] and welcome her and suggest some new products that you would like to see.

I have asked her to see if Yinding is willing to sell parts such as blank cases for your own custom lights. I will also ask if they can get some optic choices for the Yinding. Edit: Tigris got the optics already, there on their way.

This project has been fun and challenging at times. Thank you Dora and May for getting this great little light and welcome Netefari, I wish you much success.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

And in addition, *GJHS*, I'd like to say one more "Big Thanks!" to you for all the efforts you've put on this project! Well done! :thumbsup:


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

I can vouch for Nefertari. It is she who was my contact for the Fenix BC30 GB. Very nice person.


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

I can vouch for Nefertari. It is she who was my contact for the Fenix BC30 GB. Very nice person.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> And in addition, *GJHS*, I'd like to say one more "Big Thanks!" to you for all the efforts you've put on this project! Well done! :thumbsup:


Thanks Archie! Now that the door is open, I am happy to see more people starting projects. I can't wait to see what we can get done.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Mountainking7 said:


> I can vouch for Nefertari. It is she who was my contact for the Fenix BC30 GB. Very nice person.


I asked Dora to get the BC30 back in December, ha ha ha. I just didn't have the time to get it out there. I'm glad it finally got out there, nice work Mountainking. Are you posting a full review?

The new Fenix BT30R looks cool too (Fenix BT30R Cree XM L2 T6 2 LEDs Rechargeable Headlight-149.90 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com). Go get us a deal!


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

I am going to post a mini summarised review. I need to do the pictures and a small movie of it in action. The writing part is mostly complete.


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## hankering (Dec 28, 2014)

I just got your email, and have emailed the new contact person
[email protected]
asking for the replacement. 
(double check if you email anyone else, there was a typo in the email address provided --it bounced)

Not sure how I got left out of the notice of this, hoping to get the fix.

Appreciate your persistence to get this right.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

There probably need to be separate thread for people who are trying to contact Gearbest to work on special "projects". In the past it was just GJHS, but it now seems that multiple people are contacting Gearbest and it might be fatiguing to Gearbest to deal with the onslaught of requests. It would be helpful if these separate efforts could be coordinated. It's just an idea.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well theirs ones reviewing stuff (GHJS, mountainking, and myself)

My concern would be need to keep custom projects down to GJHS. Rest of us can provide help as needed. One maybe 2 things at a time. Its only one rep we are all dealing with. Will overwhelm her quickly otherwise and end up with issues again.

On the optics note, already in the works, they are prepping to order and stock the leddna style optics for us. Not 100% yet, but so far so good. I'll touch base on that better tonight.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

How about a 4 cell fenix battery case?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Let me explain a bit more. I had a long talk with Netefari and GearBest doesn't want to start any new "Custom" projects at the moment. The 3C Yinding was a loss for them and it definitely changed things.

What they are looking for is input and help to better serve the forum with better products and prices.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Thanks for the update GJHS. Hankering thanks for posting about the corrected email address, didn't even notice the failed email response.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

[email protected] is the address, I copied it off of my email.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

hankering said:


> I just got your email, and have emailed the new contact person
> [email protected]
> asking for the replacement.
> (double check if you email anyone else, there was a typo in the email address provided --it bounced)
> ...


GB informed me that they sent out all the replacement LEDs they can, so I will send you mine. I didn't get a chance to install it yet. Is that Ok?

My apologies


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## hankering (Dec 28, 2014)

No apology needed and you're too generous -- thanks but no, keep yours.
I'm sure you're going to get more use out of it than we will.
We're older city folks these days, commuting or going for short street rides mostly.
And I've got enough other flashlights that I'll always have several if I go trail riding where color matters that much. 

I can let my flashlight-fiddling geekiness go on this particular fix and live happily enough with what I got. (It may be the only light I _don't _ take apart (grin))


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

No worries and thank you. May is sending yours and I will give mine to Jokaankit since he lives close to me. May and Dora sent me a sample to test so I have a proper 3C and I don't mind the 5C. It would be selfish to keep it.

The point of all this was to get this amazing little light out there for people to enjoy. Sorry for the tint issues and Thank you for trusting me on this project. With your LED plate on the way, now everyone can enjoy their lights. Mission accomplished


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Well I have to say mine arrived yesterday and it's a nice looking light but at first glance I failed to see what all the hype was about...until I took it apart. The quality is infinitely better than the KD2. What a nice unit for the price! Thanks for getting this all set up GJHS, this is a fantastic value


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ah, you're welcome, it was nothing :yawn:


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

And the culmination of GJHS' hard work. Yinding and solarstorm x3:

Here you guys go, made my first real "video" in forever. One thing throwing a video straight from my phone or Ion up, this time I actually did something with it,lol. And fixed the video from the ION as best I could so you can get a more realistic image of what these lights do (yinding is the insane spot light on my lid)


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Wow that's really impressive. What optics are in the yinding? On another note, that ptt switch is actually identical to what is on my gloworm I think. Did you swap driver to kd2 style?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Nice video review. And Tigris99, could you provide a link to these PTT switches you're getting off Ebay? 

Thanks,
-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Agreed and maybe an installation video for the beginners here.


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

This vid makes me want to get either a head lamp (maybe yinding) or a convoy s2 for throw


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Mountainking7 said:


> This vid makes me want to get either a head lamp (maybe yinding) or a convoy s2 for throw


S2? The S2 will be too floody (smaller reflector = more floody). I've built up two Convoy M1's to experiment with. (Actually I see you already posted over there - post#15.)

-Garry


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

I thought the S2 had some throw while being relatively floody....Got to do some rides though to see what are the shortcomings of my current setup


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

agreed tigris that switch is awesome. Though it looks like you had to drill through the aluminum housing, definitely not a beginners project for me. Im sure everyone wants to know where they can buy one, and how to connect it. Also does the original button switch still work? The video was great thanks.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

jokaankit said:


> agreed tigris that switch is awesome. Though it looks like you had to drill through the aluminum housing, definitely not a beginners project for me. Im sure everyone wants to know where they can buy one, and how to connect it. Also does the original button switch still work? The video was great thanks.


Those PTT switches can have very finicky wires for soldering. I had bad luck with one I tried- I think it's called Litz wire and a PITA.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Those PTT switches can have very finicky wires for soldering. I had bad luck with one I tried- I think it's called Litz wire and a PITA.


Yes, I remember that being discussed on the DIY forum several years ago. Litz wire has an insulating film on each strand of the wire. That film needs to be mechancally, thermally or chemically removed before trying to solder. I don't really understand why some of those PTT switches would use it.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I direct solder mine no problem. But I gave 60watt iron and tin them first to burn crap off.

And ya its parallel, just soldered to sane points switch is soldered to the board. Take longer to get to the driver than to do the rest of the work. I put pics in kd2 thread cause I did it to that first.

And no still stock driver haven't decided to put kd 2 driver in yet.

I'll post the eBay link tonight.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Mountainking7 said:


> I thought the S2 had some throw while being relatively floody....Got to do some rides though to see what are the shortcomings of my current setup


I brought the S2+ out on the trail and it had a nice combo spot/flood that worked well to ride with.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Here's the eBay link to the buttons I buy:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300964278642?redirect=mobile


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks tigris99! Here is a link to a US Seller for just $0.09 more: Mini DIN Plug Finger PTT Button Heavy Duty Throat Mic | eBay

How many wires are actually in that cable? Just two? The DIN plug just have a bunch of empty/blank connections?

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Got to 100°F for the first time this year yesterday and my que to take the Yinding (+vancbiker alloy/finned mount and amazon alloy bar mount) out to see how well it handles the heat. I planned it so I would get to the trailhead about sunset so I'd estimate the temps to still be 90°+ when the light went on. It was about 5 mi. of single track and the 11 mi. home with the light on high the whole way with no heat issues.
Vancbiker, your finned mount works great!:thumbsup:
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Garry the one I linked is US (unless something changed, all 3 of mine came from east coast, here in a few days). 



Ya the connector looks like 4 wire it is only 2 when u cut the connector off.



@Mole- thnx for that, eases my concerns of heat. Though will only be medium 99% of the time, mines turned up.





Did some messing around last night, coming up with some interesting results. I put a 45deg spot optic in for the dedomed emitter side, left the 15 on the regular dommed. It was odd that the optic makes a vastly noticable difference on dedomed. The spot was much more focused but created a beam pattern between 45 and the tight spot. Much less spill so it makes for nice pattern. I may try dedoming both (waiting on l2 u4 1c emitters to get here) leaving one at 15 and put a 45 on the other. See how it works.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

I need to find a consistent test location for optics etc because to be honest, they all look the same to me lol


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Big white wall an a back yard. Or im my case white garage door and yard with kids toys for color.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

I'd say that's the greatest "feature" of the Gloworm, the remote button. Nothing like cresting a climb jamming the thumb and lighting up world!



garrybunk said:


> Thanks tigris99! Here is a link to a US Seller for just $0.09 more: Mini DIN Plug Finger PTT Button Heavy Duty Throat Mic | eBay -Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

garrybunk said:


> Thanks tigris99! Here is a link to a US Seller for just $0.09 more: Mini DIN Plug Finger PTT Button Heavy Duty Throat Mic | eBay
> 
> How many wires are actually in that cable? Just two? The DIN plug just have a bunch of empty/blank connections?
> 
> -Garry


Ok dunno wtf I must have linked watch list not what I bought, u have the right link, those r what I've been buying.


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

Did you get a 'burst' mode with the remote tigris? I suppose you must do some modding to get an output over 900 lumens?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Mountainking7 said:


> Did you get a 'burst' mode with the remote tigris? I suppose you must do some modding to get an output over 900 lumens?


Out of the box, the Yinding puts out at least 1200+ lumens. TiGeo compared it to the Gemini Duo which outputs 1500 and said they were equal.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

There is no change to my light by putting a remote in, my increased output came from modifying driver, direct thermal copper mcpcbs and better optics.



All the remote is, the same style switch that is used by the driver, just mounted inside a little plastic case and wire ran to a connector. I cut the connector off and soldered directly to the switch on the driver.

Based on actual driver output max lumens on mine is right about 2000 maybe closer to 2100 lumens (prior to dedoming one emitter) But can't hold that for long without good airflow and cooler outside temps. Case gets hot fairly quickly on high if there's only minimal airflow.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Oh last night boosted and swapped driver from my kd2. Now medium is truly right where I need it (programmed at 70%) but still noticable boost if I hit high. Programming now set at 20% (about the same as a avg basic led flashlight), 70% for more, 100% for a-hole/oh sh*t moments lol. Especially now that im going to install a xm-l2 u4 dedomed (dedomed is currently u3).


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## fonzeka (Jan 27, 2015)

Finally got my replacement board a few days ago and it looks like it might be the correct tint.
I put an old cool white xml on the new board just for reference.








Was just about to start desolder the old when I thought maybe I should test the new one first..
and lo and behold one of the new emitters is toasted


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Tigris, how was the driver swap onto the yinding? Is it pretty straightforward?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya layout is the same but ull need the kd2 silicone button too.

The kd2 driver is thru-hole for the battery wires so be ready for that, takes caution and care not to damage anything while taking the old wires out.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

GJHS said:


> Out of the box, the Yinding puts out at least 1200+ lumens. TiGeo compared it to the Gemini Duo which outputs 1500 and said they were equal.


I have to say I disagree with this lumen estimate. Unfortunately the human eye does not make a very accurate lumen/lux meter. I have a 2015 Yinding and a 2013 Duo and my bounce test lux meter readings show a consistent 10%+ lux advantage for the Duo (using identical optics). I have no way of measuring lumens so I will have to rely on MTBR's measurements for my Duo which were 1091 lumens. Using the same optics eliminates what I consider the main disadvantage of a bounce test in that it favors tighter beam patterns so I'm "assuming" my Duo produces 10% more light. Applying that to MTBR's 1091 (sphere tested) reading would put the Yinding at 982 lumens. My methods might not be perfect but using the tools I have available I think they're a lot more accurate than the human eye (lol).
Mole


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Embarking on my first (hopefully full) night ride of the season and trying out the yinding in about 5 mins


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Late night run out East!


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Just got back from a nice 2 hour ride in montauk. Mainly technical singletrack with some nice hard pack fire roads. Ran the yinding up top and the bt40 on the bars. This is a great combo, I have to say. With the yinding on medium and the bt40 on high (which is actually like medium-high as there is a turbo mode above high) the lighting was more than sufficient. I was also pleased that the fenix case with 3400mah ncr18650b easily made it 2 hours (90%medium, 10% mixed high/low) 
I'm finally getting used to NW and appreciating it. The big difference is depth perception but another nice bonus is how colors appear when going slow or stopped. You almost see things as you do in daylight. I really have nothing bad to say about this combo. No thermal issues though it was only high 30s to low 40's so I didn't expect that to be an issue


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Very nice, glad the 2 cell route is working well with the yinding. I still haven't charged with all my testing and the 30 mins of riding, can't tell a difference yet.

Makes me feel better knowing 2 cells will do all I need.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

2 cells seemed to easily hold up on 2 hours of medium and the indicator never chamged from green. Plus it's so nice and light and fits easily in a jersey pocket or whatever. Really liking the fenix case so far


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Not sure if or where it was posted, but since this thread is so long I wanted to post a link to Kir's review on this light. Hope he doesn't mind 

This will shed some light on the current draw and possible run time using different battery options

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/user-review-yinding-yd-2xu2-gemini-duo-clone-887497.html









These are all borrowed from Kir, I take no credit for any of it, but wanted to share for the newcomers. This seems to confirm that a 2 cell pack with 3400mah cells should be good for a solid 2 hours on high or 3 on medium but I will have to test the runtime myself in the near future just to confirm


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok based on his specs, yinding technically wouldn't require protected cells during use. Cuts off at about 5v, 2.5v per cell which is plenty safe for about any cell.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

That's true, at least panasonic. The deep discharge may cut back on the life a bit though


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well the protections usually drop close to the same and and 2.5 really isn't that deep, 2.3 is pushing it. As long as you dont do it every time and charge them back up to 50% when you get home, doing it every so many cycles is actually proper maintenance for them. Need push through a max cycle now and again.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Cells checked in at 3.65v when I put them on my VP2 to charge before so assuming like a .3v drop from voltage sag probably could get close to another hour on the one set. Testing those eachine 3000mah protected cheapos now. Will report back with results


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

So after getting some daytime riding in this weekend, with my trails I dont need search light level throw, maximum site range is like 40yrds. So thinking of changing 15deg spot optic on the u4 dedomed to 45deg, ends up being a nice bright roughly 25deg spot, so that'll be plenty with the the regular emitter on 15deg. I tested it last night was rather liking the bit wider pattern up close based on distance I need, will turn night into day with my flood lights on the bars.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Well, I just received my replacement neutral board for my Yinding- the one ordered just after Christmas. Also got a new blue Yinding, which already has neutral LEDs.

Took me about 30 min to replace the driver board on the new one, cut down the silicone nob on the switch, change 1 optic to narrower, and change the mount to one of Kevin's GoPro mounts. I'll do the LED board swap on the older one tonight, and I'll be done with both lights. 

Been a fun journey.


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## csermonet (Feb 2, 2009)

This is my first light and the first night riding I have ever done. I have the Yingding and the Magicshine MJ 6008 battery(2 cell 2200mah). My first ride ever, I went with a friend who has done a good amount of night riding. Said friend somehow forgot his light. Too far of a drive not to ride, so we decided I would lead and he would follow close behind. I had not done a battery life test prior, so to be safe I ran it on the middle setting. We had absolutely no problem. Cruised through the loop quickly and efficiently. I briefly turned it on the brightest setting to see the difference, and I will say the extra power was appreciated. 

I have since performed a battery life test. Fully charged on the brightest setting, 1hr 7min. Fully charged on the middle setting, 2hr 40min. I did both tests two times and got the same times within 15 seconds. I personally don't have an issue running it in the middle setting, but when I know it's going to be a quick short blast I use the high setting. This setup costs less than $50. Best deal going by far. I am considering getting another YD and MJ6008 for the handle bars. I imagine running two YD at the middle setting would be more than enough brightness. And you get the low cost/low weight 2 cell battery, with over 2 and a half hours of run time.


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## kikoy (Aug 30, 2007)

Hi sir tigris,

Where will you be getting your xm l2 u4 emitters? im planning to buy a yinding light and also upgrade the emitters. also for optics where can i buy them?

Thank you!



tigris99 said:


> Garry the one I linked is US (unless something changed, all 3 of mine came from east coast, here in a few days).
> 
> Ya the connector looks like 4 wire it is only 2 when u cut the connector off.
> 
> ...


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

You cannot upgrade emitters for nuetral white, they have the best available already. The U4 I have installed is modified (silcone dome removed) which give it a neutral white tint almost perfectly matching the u2 3c with it. (I only changed 1 emitter I left the other one stock)

So as I said, there is no "upgrade" irs simply to try out a different idea to make light a long range spot. But a U4 emitter alone will do nothing beyond ruin the tint if you dont modify it.

As for optics, LEDDNA.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

csermonet said:


> This is my first light and the first night riding I have ever done. I have the Yingding and the Magicshine MJ 6008 battery(2 cell 2200mah). My first ride ever, I went with a friend who has done a good amount of night riding. Said friend somehow forgot his light. Too far of a drive not to ride, so we decided I would lead and he would follow close behind. I had not done a battery life test prior, so to be safe I ran it on the middle setting. We had absolutely no problem. Cruised through the loop quickly and efficiently. I briefly turned it on the brightest setting to see the difference, and I will say the extra power was appreciated.
> 
> I have since performed a battery life test. Fully charged on the brightest setting, 1hr 7min. Fully charged on the middle setting, 2hr 40min. I did both tests two times and got the same times within 15 seconds. I personally don't have an issue running it in the middle setting, but when I know it's going to be a quick short blast I use the high setting. This setup costs less than $50. Best deal going by far. I am considering getting another YD and MJ6008 for the handle bars. I imagine running two YD at the middle setting would be more than enough brightness. And you get the low cost/low weight 2 cell battery, with over 2 and a half hours of run time.


Based upon your runtime, I am thinking that KIR's amp draw of 2ish is pretty accurate. 2.5 as stated would suck through that battery pack in well under an hour.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Manbeer, was KIRs testing on v1 or V2 yinding? I ask because seems this version that GJHS got built, from my understanding, is running higher than the v1, which is where the kd2 driver was really making a difference. 

That's my understanding when I tried to absorb this mega thread weeks ago.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Kir's version is completely different than than the GB Originals, including emitter.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

I just tested the version I received and here were the results on high 









For reference, the Gemini Olympia that I have is rated at 2.12, and I was reading 2.07, so either due to resistance, or my meter reading a bit differently I know that actual draw is reading a hair lower, but it seems that it should be between 1.9 and 2 amps


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well that does put the yinding (pending on emitter bin/yr of duo) at or slightly better that the duo for output.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

The duo was rated at 1.92, so I'm thinking that this should be at or slightly more as well. If the Gemini Olympia was reading . 07 low and I apply it to this it'd be right around 1.95. Garry I actually have those same plugs that I got for smd led strips at my store, I'll have to dig some out. The setup I used was a magicshine y cable, about 4 inches long, and the male end from a Fenix battery pack, both are probably 22awg or better. I can probably fit somewhat thicker cable in those plugs so I'm gonna make something more permanent when I find my extras. Also worth noting that the Xs pulled 3.13, from action leds 3.23a, so I think at that current my wire was becoming inadequate


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Remember you also loose current in 22awg vs magicshine cable running 20awg. Need to use as thick of wire as possible for test leads, keep them short, same for "bridge" between pack and light head.



Im actually in the process of building a test set up, still need to hit radio shack for banana connectors for my dmm. Goal is to set it up so I can run temperature tests and current tests all at the same time.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Yep, thinking that it can't be loosing too much though since I was off by. 6 on the mj808,. 7 on the Olympia next to Jim's specs


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya just depends on how anal you are about things. But if you know your "margin of error" then you can still get exacting results.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Well a bit over three months after placing the order, my new anodized Yinding was delivered today and it is _blue_tiful.

Ordered the light head only but came in this envelope:









Maybe that has something to do with the long delay? Took two weeks to arrive in Manhattan after clearing Customs in Queens.

Adding to the aggravation, mail carrier left a Delivery Attempt notice in my mailbox while I was home on Saturday but did not ring my buzzer for me to come get the package. So then today I waited in line at the P.O. for a couple of hours only to be told that it had been redelivered while I was there. Was sent Registered so should have to have been signed for but was just left in my mailbox this time without my signature.

Anyway am pleased with the little mod Yinding made to the control button, simply filling in the gap behind the silicone boot makes all the difference in the world. New mount is fine as well. Correct 3C tint not bad, I like the 5C on my original Neutral White too and am happy to have one of each. At this price would order more but not if it's gonna take another three months to get to me!


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Mine took two weeks exactly. Yours had to be a fluke, I wouldn't think it will take that long again. I may get another as well but will wait until I have to order something else. Last time I ordered I couldn't figure out how to use my GB points so I should have a decent amount now


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

My stuff slow route usually takes 3 weeks and im in the Midwest.


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## Belse (Apr 16, 2013)

I was looking at some new collimator lenses for my Yindings from Leddna. As far as I know the stock lens is 15 and I was going to buy 25 and 45 degrees to test in the handlebar lighthead but they also had a 30 degree with frosted glass, and three elliptical ones, 10x45, 20x60 and 30x60 degrees. Has anyone tried the elliptical ones and the frosted one, and how do they perform compared to the stock lens?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

The only ones that work right are the 15-45-60 and elipticals, I threw the others in the trash. Also the stock isn't really 15, more like 20-25. The 15 -45- 60 ones (arent collimator actually) are actually more efficient than stock ones apparently too. Not by alot but they were tested earlier in this thread and were about 10% more efficient.


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## Belse (Apr 16, 2013)

So these frosted ones aint worth bying?
15 Degree Frosted 21mm Reflector Collimator LED Lens For Cree XHP50 XML2 XM-L30 Degree Frosted 21mm Reflector Collimator LED Lens For Cree XHP50 XML2 XM-L

15 Degree Frosted 21mm Reflector Collimator LED Lens For Cree XHP50 XML2 XM-L30 Degree Frosted 21mm Reflector Collimator LED Lens For Cree XHP50 XML2 XM-L

These ones will work?
10 Degree 21mm Reflector Collimator LED Lens For Cree XML XM-L LED - LEDDNA

15, 45, 60 degrees Lens for CREE XML XM-L LED - LEDDNA

And these elliptical ones will also work, but the size is 20 X 12,8 compared to the others that are 21 X 12,5?
20mm Elliptical Spot Lens Optic 10Â°x45Â° for CREE XHP50, XML2, XM-L LED

20mm Elliptical Spot Lens Optic 20Â°x60Â° for CREE XHP50, XML2, XM-L LED

20mm Elliptical Spot Lens Optic 30Â°x60Â° for CREE XHP50, XML2, XM-L LED

I have two Yindings, and the one on the helmet is good, but I would like a little bit wider beam from the one on the handlebar, so if the stock one is about 20-25°, should I go for the 45° or maybe the elliptica 10X45° for the handlebar light, and maybe go for 10 or 15° for the helmet light for a litle bit more throw?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> The only ones that work right are the 15-45-60 and elipticals.


Hey Tigris,
I ordered some of these from Leddna and was wondering how long the shipping times were for you?
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

I found the 10º*45º elliptical lenses to be a little short, even as a dedicated low-beam. IMHO the 20º*60º work better in that position. Sorry I didn't order any 30º*60º lenses, thinking now they might actually have been the best choice for use in a low-beam when employed in conjuntion with a separate, spotty lamp.

Am waiting for some equipment to arrive so I can complete overhauling my commuter, should be here either today or tomorrow. Then I'll run right out and take some beam shots of my newest unmodded Yinding along with various replacement lenses, for sake of comparison.

Shipping from LEDDNA to NYC took over a month. Lenses from FastTech arrived in two weeks and one from LEDSupply came in a few days.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

After messing with this on the bench I have to say the heat transfer from the boards to the case is super good, only limiting factor being the small fins which give it a nice clean look though. The case gets stupid hot after like 90 seconds on high though which is a lot faster than the kd2. Much more thermal transfer on this one


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

MRMOLE said:


> Hey Tigris,
> I ordered some of these from Leddna and was wondering how long the shipping times were for you?
> Mole


LEDDNA has shipped quick to me. First order was like 8 days; second order (a month ago) was about 2 weeks.

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Sorry mole, got side tracked lol. What garry said.

So heres more on my blue yinding. Changed optic on dedomed to 45 deg cause 15deg spot was just useless amount of throw/small spot.



Heres what mine runs at now, well my blue one. Seems though dk2 driver calculates lower seems it pushes harder because my black one and this one are calculated within 100mA of each other for driver but blue one on KD2 driver pulls 300mA more:










And figure ill share my video here too, unedited (not worried about it right now) of my yinding on lid then starting with bt40 for bar light, then modded mj880 clone, then finally ssx3 (i think in that order). Yinding is on medium/70% the entire time. My phone camera works WAY better at night, but cant mount it safe enough for trail use....


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

So tigris, what's the stock YD drawing for you? Around 2.1-2.2? Does it seem like the kd2 board offers a small increase? I may rip into mine tonight and swap boards


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I dont have a stock one anymore lol.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

tigris99 said:


> I dont have a stock one anymore lol.


tig, I guess I might as well ask this; What is your preferred bar / helmet combo at the moment (?) seeing that most of what you have likely has a boosted driver. That said, what stock set-up would you have preferred?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

If where talking bone stock, no optics changes or anything:





Yinding lid


Bt40 bars





My helmet choice is weight and ability for solid run time on 2 cell Panasonic 3400s in fenix case all on the lid.





But yinding is floody stock. Go to batteries in hydropack, ssx3 has more throw stock for helmet use then use 4cell in pack. 2 cell in lid would work fine probably for most but a bad crash (downed tree that I hit at speed with front of my helmet) my neck sometimes already notices yinding and fenix case with Panasonics.


Still on bt40 for bars, stock or otherwise. Only light I have that compares is my mj880 and that's being adapted to optics and pushed to 3.1A at the battery connector (2.8-2.9 at emitters) and a 15 and 45 degree optics. Took all that to out perform the bt40.


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## dmc71 (May 16, 2015)

For those that have swapped out the stock optics in the GB Yinding what are the preferred replacement optics for a)helmet and b)bars?
Given that Leddna only have 15deg, 45deg and 60deg other than ellipticals, are the 15's too tight for helmet use? I assume the 45's are too floody, what about a 15 + 45, or 15 plus stock?
Does anywhere have same spec/manufacturer optics in the 20, 25, 30 deg range?
I'd need them to ship to uk.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

15s are perfect more helmet use IMO. I have a weird modded set up, but 15deg or 15 and 45 are perfect helmet set ups for me.

As for other options, they dont exist as of yet, what leddna has is what you got options for. there are ways to modify beam pattern (dedoming 1 emitter) but 15 and 45 or 15 and 15 work great. my 15 and 45 is simply because i have 1 dedomed u4 1C emitter (changes tint to 3c since dedoming) and 15 on that emitter was a search light,lol. 45 ended up about 25 deg on the dedomed one.


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## dmc71 (May 16, 2015)

Thanks, I've bought 4 of each of the 15 and 45 to play with the yinding and bt21.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

I did a 10 and a 15 but I'm pretty sure they aren't from led dna. I got them in a trade so I'm not positive who are them. Works like a champ though and is very similar in output and beam pattern to my older gloworm x2 (1300 lumen model)


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Sorry I got in on this late! I received my Leddna order (3/15° spots and 3 ea. of the 20/60, 30/60 elliptical floods) a couple of days ago. Shipping took 11 days and our assumption that Gloworm and Leddna optics are the same isn't the case. So far I've only had a chance to mess with the 15°, comparing it to Gloworms spot (XS/X2 V3.1). Wall shots look like the Leddna has a very slightly narrower beam. I also did several light meter bounce tests with stock/Leddna/Gloworm optics with the max readings showing a +5.4% Lux reading over stock for the Leddna and a +10.9% Lux reading for the Gloworm. In-door tests favor the Gloworm optics but I need to get outside to get a proper impression (tomorrow night weather permitting). The optic subject came up so I figured I'd post what I had at the moment.
Mole


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Yep the gloworm spots seem to have a tiny diffuser/grid in the center of the lens. Haven't seen any others like it


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks for sharing MRMOLE. Waiting to hear more! I'll probably look to swap out my Yinding optics for helmet use so I'd like to hear your results. 

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

After some further testing I have bad news for KD driver users:

Im going back to yinding driver and here's why.

My black yinding (stock driver) with 1 u2 3c and 1 u3 1c dedomed is only barely below my blue one on light output. And this difference is in the fact that the blue one uses noctigons instead of stock emitter board and dedomed emitter is a u4 bin (50-75 lumens brighter than u3 bin).

But: Blue one has kd2 driver pulling 2.8-3A on high versus black which pulls 2.5A on high. Tested on same freshly charged pack.

Both are boosted to same calculated output to emitters, 2.3-2.5A.

So kd2 driver requires another 500mA of current draw to accomplish same possibly a bit less output than yinding driver.

Programming not worth it to me AT ALL!!! Putting yinding driver back in yinding!!!


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Me, too completely satisfied with Yinding's default driver; don't see any reasons to replace it...


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I was after the programming....bad idea.

Update to that: Put yinding driver back in, now there is a noticeable difference that's obvious. Not huge but its there and anyone could see it. My black has nothing but boosted to 2.5 just like blue one, but noctigons and dedomed being one bin better, you can definitely see it now.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Hi,

still problems with that "too warm tint" batch. I received replacing board few days ago, and today I tried to replace the old warm one.

Resoldered...doesnt work, resoldered old one...it works, once again resoldered new one...doesnt work.
OK my known "luck"...somehow got non working board. 

But then I compared the two boards and noticed that new "neutral" LED board is bigger. That got very strange to me and went to check
if it actually fit in the light body. Surprise, surprise... IT DOESNT!!!

Anyone else with that problem?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

bhocewar said:


> Hi,
> 
> still problems with that "too warm tint" batch. I received replacing board few days ago, and today I tried to replace the old warm one.
> 
> ...


Yes, I had to grind and file mine down to fit. It's perfect now, after a fair bit of work.
Also installed KD 10-level board, Vancbiker finned mount, zip tie on power cable, and added thermal paste.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Quite strange... Does that board have "YINDING" markings?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*Leddna 15° vs Gloworm Spot Optic (XS/X2 V3.1)*



garrybunk said:


> Thanks for sharing MRMOLE. Waiting to hear more! I'll probably look to swap out my Yinding optics for helmet use so I'd like to hear your results.
> 
> -Garry


 I did get to ride last night and was shocked how different these two optics are in the real world. Light intensity and max throw are about equal. My light meter gives the Gloworm optic a fraction over 5% advantage but even side by side it's hard to tell much of a difference. Beam shape is totally different! The Leddna optic has a cone shaped beam with little side spill around the front wheel and gradually gets wider the further away from the light that it gets. The Gloworm's beam is far more rectangular with a fair amount of flood around the front wheel (for a spot optic). The Gloworm also has a much smoother beam spread where as the Leddna is more hot-spotty especially the more the light is aimed down. I'm not sure this makes the Gloworm a better spot optic though, especially if all you care about is what happens @ max throw. The Gloworm is obviously a better optic but I guess it depends on what your looking for as to whether it justifies the difference in price.

One other thing I noticed is that the Leddna optic is slightly longer and is a very tight fit putting pressure on the board the LED's are mounted on. I'm not sure if this is a potential problem or not so does any one have any input on this?
Mole


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks for the info. So the LEDDNA is "spottier" and throws further? Sounds like it's better suited for those wanting a throwy helmet light? Or do you think the Gloworm optic still has a better suited beam pattern coming off the helmet (like less tunnel vision effect)?

EDIT - for anyone reading and wondering, this is the Gloworm optic compared by MRMOLE.

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> Thanks for the info. So the LEDDNA is "spottier" and throws further? Sounds like it's better suited for those wanting a throwy helmet light? Or do you think the Gloworm optic still has a better suited beam pattern coming off the helmet (like less tunnel vision effect)?
> 
> EDIT - for anyone reading and wondering, this is the Gloworm optic compared by MRMOLE.
> 
> -Garry


 The Gloworm and Leddna are "equal in max throw" and the Gloworm performs better in every other way (wider beam, very slight light intensity advantage, smoother more ever beam and definitely less tunnel vision effect). It's just that these advantages make a better over all light but not a better spot light for some. Personally I like the Gloworm better.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Mole the pressure on the PCB is of no issue except may mess with tightening down face plate. Just dont tighten the crap outta the plate (though iirc its fine on the 15deg but the 45 and 60 fit tight in the faceplate).



Imo leddna optics are "good enough" figure cost versus gain. Extra 5% for $7 more.... Though buying a couple glowworm optics just to try....you know me lol.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

tigris99 said:


> Imo leddna optics are "good enough" figure cost versus gain. Extra 5% for $7 more....


I'm inclined to agree, I just wish we could find the supplier of the optics from the gloworm to get them at a lower cost

Imo it's all about keeping budget lights "budget" and all to easy to spend more on upgrades then the lightheads cost themselves. It's very easy to get carried away


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Mole the pressure on the PCB is of no issue except may mess with tightening down face plate. Just dont tighten the crap outta the plate (though iirc its fine on the 15deg but the 45 and 60 fit tight in the faceplate).
> 
> Imo leddna optics are "good enough" figure cost versus gain. Extra 5% for $7 more.... Though buying a couple glowworm optics just to try....you know me lol.


I think I"m going to try to resurface the back of the optic to where it fits better because "tighten the crap outta the plate" sounds like something I'd do. Time to play with the ellipticals first though. Look forward to hearing what you think of the Gloworm spots.
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

I only ordered the ellipticals from LEDDNA, got my 15º spots from FastTech because cheaper there, especially in multiples. Looked the same, with the four little feet. Anybody know if there's a difference between the two companies' optics?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Actually no they look the exact same, seems fasttech has an option leddna doesn't. The 30deg (though looks like the 45 from leddna)


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Hmm, thinking that since my Yindings from GearBest are both "Natural White" I should install some more natural looking optics like the wide angle lens this creature employs:








A hyperiid amphipod of the Phronima genus. These parasitoid crustaceans eat salps and use the empty gelatinous husks as protective shells.

IMAGE: A.AMIEL/KAHIKAI/TARA OCEANS


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

That looks just like an optic that had been glued into a light body and later removed. Must have been a struggle to remove since the owner lost a lot of blood getting it out!

-Garry


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Seems these lights are prone to issues with the screws stripping/falling out. 

My first Yinding came with the threads holding the rear cover stripped out. To Gearbests credit, they eventually replaced that light head for me. 

Last night I was out on a ride with the replacement and noticed that one of the screws holding the front cover was missing in action. :eekster:

Might be a good idea to check those screws to make sure they are snug.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Big issue is im yet to see any light head that uses blue loctite on the screws. One thing that I learned too many years ago is steel screws into aluminum that has large temperature variations and vibrations, use blue loctite or it will come loose at some point.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

tigris99 said:


> Big issue is im yet to see any light head that uses blue loctite on the screws. One thing that I learned too many years ago is steel screws into aluminum that has large temperature variations and vibrations, use blue loctite or it will come loose at some point.


I feel that Yinding has has made a mistake on their choice of the tiny fine threaded bolts used on these lights. Aluminum doesn't seem to be strong enough to hold such a incredibly fine thread which I believe is why my first light had a stripped out rear cover.

Blue Loctite would probably be OK if you never plan to open the light in the future, but if you do I would be worried that the aluminum threads would come right out with the Loctite.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Well I had my first problem with my Yinding last night although I not sure I can blame it on the light itself. I was going to see how much power was lost from start up to normal running temp with vancbikers finned gopro mount and the stock one. I had just run some lux test while experimenting with the Leddna optics last week and was surprised when my first readings were over 20% less than I had gotten a week ago. I let the light cool down and retested a couple of times with the same results, them tested my Taz 1500 which usually has very similar readings to the Yinding but it measured OK (over 20% better than the Yinding). The only thing I've done to the light lately is the optic switch and was a little concerned the extra pressure put on the internals of the light from the slightly taller leddna optics so I switched back to the stock ones. Power readings back to normal? When I first put the optics in everything worked fine and I know others run these optics without problems that I know of. I don't know if I should blame the optics or there's something going on with the light itself. Anyone got any Ideas what might cause this?
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ive NEVER had that problem. I did it for years on custom built rl scale rc and on all my bike stuff. I use blue 242 liquid, just a drop and done. Never an issue loosing threads. Threads are stripped from over tightening but never an issue with just a dab of loctite, but keeps screws from falling out. And ive had these tiny screws I into aluminum on rc plenty, way more of a beating there, 0 failures of threads being ripped out. But that's stuff I built so properly tightened etc.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

@Mole: When you put in the LEDDNA optics, did you make sure that the four little feet cornered the square of the die and stayed that way? (Default optics are footless and round, so orientation not an issue.) When I put ellipticals in my Yinding I noticed that the lenses tended to rotate out of position; had to gently tap the lamp from behind to jiggle them back into place so that the ribs ran vertical before tightening the face plate all the way. (Can't see feet through ellipticals but should be able to make them out with the clear.)


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

tigris99 said:


> One thing that I learned too many years ago is steel screws into aluminum that has large temperature variations and vibrations, use blue loctite or it will come loose at some point.


+1.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> @Mole: When you put in the LEDDNA optics, did you make sure that the four little feet cornered the square of the die and stayed that way? (Default optics are footless and round, so orientation not an issue.) When I put ellipticals in my Yinding I noticed that the lenses tended to rotate out of position; had to gently tap the lamp from behind to jiggle them back into place so that the ribs ran vertical before tightening the face plate all the way. (Can't see feet through ellipticals but should be able to make them out with the clear.)


I can only say I think I did. I didn't try to look through the optic but I noticed with the leddna optic that you have to rotate it till it kind of snaps into position (like those feet actually fit a certain way around the emitter). I had already planned on resurfacing the back of the leddna optics to get a better fit, I just hadn't had the optics out since last week. I'm not putting the leddnas back in until I take a little material off those feet for my own piece of mind, but I'm still not sure that's the problem. Thanks for the reply!
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Mole, I forgot to mention, I cut the feet off my leddna optics lol. Was done because they sit slightly lower, less pressure. Also got a tint/output change that way, seems to be more optimal that way. Most of my leddna optics now are missing their feet, been meaning to try just filing them down a bit so some of the tabs are still there for easier assembly.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

tigris99 said:


> Ive NEVER had that problem. I did it for years on custom built rl scale rc and on all my bike stuff. I use blue 242 liquid, just a drop and done. Never an issue loosing threads. Threads are stripped from over tightening but never an issue with just a dab of loctite, but keeps screws from falling out. And ive had these tiny screws I into aluminum on rc plenty, way more of a beating there, 0 failures of threads being ripped out. But that's stuff I built so properly tightened etc.


OK, you talked me into it. I decided to open up the light to loctite the long bolts holding the back plate on as well as the short screws for the front cover. When I removed the front I discovered a snapped o-ring between the body and the front cover. I guess this explains why I lost that bolt since there was no longer any tension behind the bolt it just vibrated loose. Unfortunately I found that I could only remove one of the long bolts that screws into the back cover... the other was seriously tight and I feared I would round off the bolt head or strip the threads so just left it alone.

The apes putting these together obviously don't understand reasonable torque (hence the stripped rear cover threads on my previous one).


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Mole, I forgot to mention, I cut the feet off my leddna optics lol. Was done because they sit slightly lower, less pressure. Also got a tint/output change that way, seems to be more optimal that way. Most of my leddna optics now are missing their feet, been meaning to try just filing them down a bit so some of the tabs are still there for easier assembly.


Footless it is. If pressure was causing the problem the light is working fine right now, so I don't any damage was done. If it's the light itself I'm sure it will fail again and I'll deal with then.
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

kwarwick said:


> When I removed the front I discovered a snapped o-ring between the body and the front cover. I guess this explains why I lost that bolt since there was no longer any tension behind the bolt it just vibrated loose...


Yeah same thing here when I opened my new blue Yinding, a single broken black O-ring wormed its way out. Can't figure out where it had been hiding because not enough circumference to have ridden around the face plate. Anyway my original black Yinding did not have this and both lamps seem to hold fine with just the thin translucent gasket in place. Haven't applied any blue loctite yet because not sure which optics I'll be keeping.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

andychrist said:


> Yeah same thing here when I opened my new blue Yinding, a single broken O-ring wormed its way out. Can't figure out where it had been hiding because not enough circumference to have ridden around the face plate. Anyway my original black Yinding did not have this and both lamps seem to hold fine with just the thin translucent gasket in place. Haven't applied any blue loctite yet because not sure which optics I'll be keeping.


It actually sits in a grove around the circumference of the mating surface in the body. They stretch the heck out of it to make it fit which likely explains why it snapped.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

kwarwick said:


> Blue Loctite would probably be OK if you never plan to open the light in the future, but if you do I would be worried that the aluminum threads would come right out with the Loctite.





andychrist said:


> Haven't applied any blue loctite yet because not sure which optics I'll be keeping.


Actually, the blue one is not permanent: you can unscrew without heating just fine. At least, I can say that for #243.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

-Archie- said:


> Actually, the blue one is not permanent: you can unscrew without heating just fine. At least, I can say that for #243.


Yes, I totally understand that the blue Loctite is not permanent... I've used #242 before on brake rotor bolts and the like without issues.

My comment was more to do with my perception that the threads are particularly delicate in this light because Yinding opted to use a very small bolt size (I think M2) along with a fine thread pitch. Most M2 bolts I've seen are not this fine pitch which I just don't think is appropriate for use in aluminum unless steel inserts are used.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ive never had a problem, I have a hole organizer full of metric fine threads, never have issues, used down to m1 fine thread into aluminum with 0 issues plenty. Imo its all in the assembly. But that's me. 

Does sound like were running into a good list of assembly issues though because yinding has an assembler that doesn't care. I have a black and blue on that have given me literally 0 issues with anything except black one came with broken mount (which wasn't a big deal)


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok so as much as I thought the pricing is insane, I bout a couple glowworm optics to try out. Well see how I like them when they arrive.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Ok so as much as I thought the pricing is insane, I bout a couple glowworm optics to try out. Well see how I like them when they arrive.


Look forward to your impressions. I'm not done testing all the optics I've gotten lately but at this point in time I feel I got more for the money I spent on the Gloworm optics than the less expensive alternatives.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya to me bang for buck leddna I like them with the feet off. At some point ill actually set up a light box so I can do some actual comparisons on my lux meter.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Hey mole, got my optics today.

FIRST OFF EVERYONE, the frosted optic is nothing more than the carclo frosted medium spot optic. Good optic but $8 for a $2 optic... 

Spot optic on the other hand is another unique design. More towards the height of leddna optics just seemingly better.

I'll probably be grabbing a couple more spot optics and maybe ill be adding some carclo frosted to my stash at some point to.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Hey mole, got my optics today.
> 
> FIRST OFF EVERYONE, the frosted optic is nothing more than the carclo frosted medium spot optic. Good optic but $8 for a $2 optic...
> 
> ...


Now I feel bad! If I had known you were going to order a frosted/wide angle I would have advised you not to. Not that it's a bad optic, its just that it doesn't have any wider beam than the spot and less throw and intensity. I've made a couple of posts about this but I think they were in the Gloworm threads. Sorry Man! I'm sure you'll be very happy with the spot optic and I encourage you to try the Gloworm "Elliptical optic" which is what I use for my wide angle. It's totally different than the Leddna ellipticals. Not near as wide a beam but has the best throw of any elliptical/wide angle I've ever used and hardly any reduction in light intensity. Good balance of spot and wide angle, great bar beam pattern IMO.
Mole


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

hi everyone i think my yinding is running hot since my poor attempt of soldering the new replacement plate. Outer housing climbs to 130-140 F within 2 minutes on high. The lens measures 200-300 F. I haven't really used it since swapping the plate. Maybe I can try again with some leaded solder? I imagine its cheaper to buy a new yinding than it is to buy a new iron and solder lol

Is this normal? Or should I just get a new light head?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya so far ive been doing 15/45. I'll see what the gw optics do in the yinding in a few.

And no worries on that, I wad expecting just more smooth beam from the frosted, less hot spot, but seems instead they are going to be just like the rest of carclo optics which I dont like for being a big company for optics, they suck lol.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

They run that hot in high with no airflow. Its normal. But the new plates have stronger emitters as well so it'll run slightly warmer anyway. Nothing wrong with your light, like any other bike light if your going to test it PUT A DECENT FAN WITH PLENTY OF AIR FLOW in front of it first.

And don't measure temps at the lens cause its not accurate and reads way high (color temp of light in 3c tint id much higher than 5c)


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Hey Jokaankit I'm happy to meet up so you can compare a factory 3C to yours. I think you'll find they are the same, the thermal transfer is great and that little case heats up quick. Shouldn't be a problem when riding or hasn't been for me yet.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Actually mole here's my opinions:

Liking this frosted thing, same reason I like the bt21 optics, except this one has almost no hot spot, bt21 retains some for throw.

I can see the difference using the gw spot optic vs leddna optic. Seems to have a bit more pushed out the front, less spill, but to me the leddna 15 is tighter hot spot. Guessing the gw optic pulls more of the light out the front but in a slightly wider spot pattern and less wasted to the sides instead. Too me it seems like a carclo optic spit optic BUT DONE RIGHT lol. Squareness about matches carclo optics but more light coming out, less loss.

Now the 2 combined im not sure how the heck gw uses them together, 2 different heights, I had to put extra oring in the frosted side so everything went together properly.

All that said, $8 for the spot optic....depends on your obsession with perfection. Will i buy anymore, can't say, bang for buck kind lost there for me but im still comparing to other set ups see where I at exactly.

But I will be getting more frosted from places that sell them as carclo for hella cheaper. I like how they smooth out the pattern. And I hate ellipticals except in my ssx3 where I put on in the middle to brighten up the middle of the 2 60deg optics I have on the sides. 20x60 with 2 full 60s is great for the paved path around my town. Path ive done my videos on so far.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Now the 2 combined im not sure how the heck gw uses them together, 2 different heights, I had to put extra oring in the frosted side so everything went together properly..


I'm pretty sure you have a flood/frosted optic for a older version Gloworm here. The X2V2 and very early X2V3 had a slightly shorter light-head body and shorter optics.
Still interested to see what your opinion is after you've used the Gloworm spot optic for a while.
Mole


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Thanks GJHS thats, great to hear its working ok. I'm usually riding the trails in the morning. But, would be glad to put another night ride in.

I actually got an extra plate from when may sent it to me. Though, one of leds came dedomed (the silicone was crushed/crumpled). The one you gave me is great, and I love the tint. I've only been using it as a flashlight lately  I tried my best with a basic dollar store solder iron, wasn't very easy considering how many things need to be held in place. If anyone tries replacing the plate with a cheap iron, use rosin core/leaded solder. I think it flows in a wider range of temps.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Mines snapped also due to me over-tightening. The light is still waterproof after some monkey torquing (sp?) On a side note, you can order new ones or superglue the ends together for added protectection. If you use superglue use the least possible as you dont want a hard spot. My superglued o ring stayed on for the first 2 times i opened it and broke off after the 3rd. I tested the light head in a sink and its still fine. its good enough for rain, maybe not diving


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Mole- I have the gw along side a 15deg in my yinding now. Interesting beam pattern, gonna try it out.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok mole did my FIRST EVER trail ride tonight. Well first successful (dont ask) and full loop.

I really like the gw and leddna 15 mix. For me it literally makes the perfect head lamp.


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## dmc71 (May 16, 2015)

GW spot or GW flood, i assume spot for lid?

Having bought some leddna and fasttech optics but awaiting delivery to try in the YD and BT21 i was wondering, having looked at the beam profile graphs on ActionLed whether all quoted optic beam angles are at half max intensity (like gemini and carclo) as if so when looking at the gemini duo, GW X2, and MJ880 on ActionLed then you'd assume that all of these have optics in the 15-16deg range?
On Actions graphs you'd also say that the MJ872 is only about 14deg at half intensity which you'd think would suggest at tighter beam than something with a 16deg optic but when quoting half intensity beam angles it appears that it is so dependant on the max intensity of the light to determine the overall beam angle that using half intensity angles is a flawed system.

So how do you interpret the Action graphs, and what would you say is the beam/optic angles of the gemini duo, gw X2, 880 and 872 from the Action graphs?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Yes spot optics for the lid

as for graphs, what graphs????LOL. I could care less about graphs cause they mean total crap to me. I think they use half intensity because of the spill. If you watch a light with a spot optic, when you go form say medium to high, the spot only gets slightly brighter, but the spill around the spot increases intensity.

Only way to do anything is to test for yourself. Pictures of them against a wall, graphs, etc, all mean total crap cause for this use each persons need is going to change. And graphs do nothing honestly for what the beam actually looks like under all levels of intensity. Some total geeks might care but as far as ive gone into this, I still could care less cause till I use them, what a graph says means nothing. How they do when in front of me on my lights is what determines what optics I choose. No better way to make that choice.


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## dmc71 (May 16, 2015)

The graphs are linked from Actionled's support page and they are using them to try and describe the different beam patterns of different lights that they sell, they show angle of beam spread against lux at max setting of light.
So for instance they indicate (or my interpretation of them) that the gw x2 is a little narrower and more intence than the gemini duo using stock set up. It also aims to say compare the xs to the x2 and olympia to the duo etc.
But given that they are quoting beam angles on these graphs and i was in the market for some after market optics i was trying to correctly interpret the graphs so that i could gauge the impact of what i was buying, given that leddna etc don't mention half intensity angles in relation to the optics that they sell, but carclo for example do so two 15deg optics from different manufactures or retailers could be massively different if one is half intensity and one isnt?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

That's the thing, they don't show the spill outside of the posted beam. That's y I just buy several different options and test till I find what I like. Just easier and except gw, the optics are dirt cheap.


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## dmc71 (May 16, 2015)

They do quote the intensity out to 35degrees in each direction so 70deg overall, but yes some of the more floody lights could have decent illumination out beyond 70deg. You can prob go on the value of lux remaining at +/-25 to 35deg as a guage of which lights perhaps are likely to flood most, some are flatlining by then others appear to show health illumination?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

See and there lies the issue, those graphs are the light heads with stock optics, some light heads can be changed. Dou, x2, xs, 880 (not sure beyond that). Graphs just help give you an idea of "out of the box". 

This is why everyone wants beam shots. Partially because the graphs are "lab test" not what you actually always see with your eyes. Also light head can vary how the same optic looks in use. Like the mj880, optics are recessed in a bit more than others because its adapted to fit optics (look at white plastic ring between optic and front plate) that will affect some of the spill. Duo and x2/xs are only slightly recessed so except for widest pattern frosted optics beam pattern would be unaffected. Then go to something like the bt21 with frosted optics, they sit flush out with the front plate, allowing for more spill on wide area optics.

Their graphs are useful for their lights, and duo/x2 would be good representation of yinding and kd2 clones if optics were the same across all of them.

Basically, unless you are buying their lights, the graphs aren't of help here much. Finding graphs that show each of the optics out there in their narrow to widest pattern bean, tested on several different lights of similar outputs through the modes, those graphs are of little help. Example is I've got a mass selection of optics. Gloworm spot optic is wider than my 15deg leddna a optic, but less spill. Gw optic has more intense hot spot, more intense spill, but much less close in spill.

Summary, many variables, all those lights at action use different designs/manufacturers of optics. Does good job showing how each of their lights do, but beyond that your own eyes and our beam shots are where your best info will come from.


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## hankering (Dec 28, 2014)

> Original/Real Yinding YD 2xU2 found - Page 76- Mtbr.com

EDITED: most recent mail in reply to my inquiry about getting the replacement for the yellow emitters, as of a few minutes ago:

"Yes I have noticed the person in charge of this kind of problem, but have no idea why she have not replied me. I will follow it. Im going to read this post tomorrow morning here. Sorry for our fault.  "

So perhaps there's hope yet


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Dont get your hopes up too high.

I chcked the trace on my defect led board and they are OK...so Its hard to believe that both emitters are defective, therefore the problem
might be in poor soldering of emitters to the board. I will try to reflow them and hope it works, because GB and Yinding factory doesnt want
to replace it.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Maybe the LEDs were overheated during initial soldering, or put in reverse polarity...


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Polarity is OK...the first thing I checked
There is no sign being overheated by soldering process, though it can be that.

I will check when I desolder emitters off the board.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Ok, good luck!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

1 bad emitter or 1 reversed polarity will shut them down, they run in series (been there done that on my own tinkering plenty).

Sucks yinding has turned into such a crappy company for standing behind their lights, these are awesome lights.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

BTW, I've just noticed this tread has already grown to almost 80 pages long! Is it a local record over here?


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## WhitedragonBC (Jun 10, 2015)

If I ordered a neutral white one of these today would it come with 3C or 5C?

Has anyone replaced the stock driver with one of the round flashlight drivers? Thinking about making some kind of high/low beam setup with 2 lights and remote switches, but the stock driver won't really work for what I want.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

They all come 3c now. No flashlight drivers DONT fit in these. Most of these lights have drivers built for their housings. And to make other drivers kit means alot of custom machining type work. Remote switchs on these are easy though, both mine have them cost me $12 for PTT remote switches and a few minutes with a soldering iron. Can actually be controlled off one switch but im guessing you know enough about that to make it work without frying drivers.

high and low beam im guessing you want one light pointed up more than the other, the one pointed up with more throw, one pointed more down with wide beam.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

WhitedragonBC, HD-016 might be suitable for you. Not that good as Yinding, but suitable for some applications. It has two separated buck circuits and controling part on the driver. Maybe you get some ideas......


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## hankering (Dec 28, 2014)

Is this the replacement people are expecting/getting for the original far-too-yellow emitters?
Cree XM - L2 3C LED Emitter for Yinding Headlamp ( 5000 - 5500K )-6.44 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Yes

-Garry


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## WhitedragonBC (Jun 10, 2015)

Bad news on all fronts then. 

I've looked at the HD-016 before, but I don't think it would really be any better than the 2 flashlights I'm using now.

Might be able to run the high beam direct drive without a driver. With the long cable and inline switch providing enough resistance so it doesn't burn up, though having no regulation isn't ideal. 

The low beam definitely needs multiple modes though. The thing I don't like about the stock driver is you have to cycle through all the modes to turn it off. Most bike lights seem to have this problem.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

Honestly Its not that bad. You can simply unplug the wire in your situation. For most people toggling through off is a terrible thing, but as mentioned the driver has delayed toggle. So quickly pressing the button prevents you from ever being in the dark. And most people have two lights so that shouldn't happen. 

I hope in the near future everyones demands for an ultimate light are reached.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Check out the Nitenumen (Nitenumen BC - A2 Cree XML L2 + R5 Water - resistant Dual Distance Beam LED Headlight - 1100Lm 4 Modes 4 x 18650 Battery-48.98 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com) it has a nice dual beam (spot/flood) system, a remote and no off if the modes.

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/nitenumen-bc-a2-xm-l2-r5-946489.html


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## WhitedragonBC (Jun 10, 2015)

That looks like the best option if I decide to go with a single light. I'd have to swap the emitters since it's CW.


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## RoadTire (Jan 6, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Check out the Nitenumen (Nitenumen BC - A2 Cree XML L2 + R5 Water - resistant Dual Distance Beam LED Headlight - 1100Lm 4 Modes 4 x 18650 Battery-48.98 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com) it has a nice dual beam (spot/flood) system, a remote and no off if the modes.
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/nitenumen-bc-a2-xm-l2-r5-946489.html


Did you ever get some good time on that one? Curious to hear longer term opinions.

What do we have now, 4 lights of the same dual LED format being discussed here and on budgetlightforum? Nitefighter B21, UniqueFire HD-016, NiteNumen BC-A2m and Yinding YD 2xU2? Hard to make a decision.

My lights are primarily for commuting city combined with dark roads and trails, taking 1 hr (short ride) up to 2 1/2 hrs (full commute). A single-1000 lm XinTD C8 V4 XM-L2 T6 works: narrow beam, good throw, only 1 to 1 1/2 hr before I change batteries. Very few cars and peds around at 2 AM.

You can see why I'm watching these threads. I want high beam good throw, low beam wide spread, NW-sorta tint, 3 hour run time at 1000 lm. On a 4 pack s/p configuration. Oh, and inexpensive too. 

The likely scenario is buy a head, 4 really good batteries, a case, and be conservative about running the lights on high.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I was impressed by the total light output of the Nitenumen, it really had both a spot and flood that really brightened the trail in ahead. The flood has a viable ring in the beam though it wasn't distracting. I'm going to take photos of all the lights tomorrow night now that the trail is defrosted (originally I took them in the winter) and has foliage.

I will try to give it a ride soon, maybe lend it out for a second opinion. It's a very busy time for me so riding has been difficult.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

In all honesty, for that purpose probably all of these are a decent option. I have all except the nitenumen and they all have their strengths and weaknesses but can't go wrong either way. Of the whole group I would say the yinding probably has the best proven durability and waterproofing. The bt21 will be the brightest but it's too new for any verdict regarding longevity and the top mounted button is a potential point of entry for water. The uniquefire has a nice combination of beam patterns but the other two are probably a step above it in terms of quality. The nitenumen I can't speak on

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk


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## MichaelHa (Jan 29, 2015)

bhocewar said:


> Dont get your hopes up too high.
> 
> I chcked the trace on my defect led board and they are OK...so Its hard to believe that both emitters are defective, therefore the problem
> might be in poor soldering of emitters to the board. I will try to reflow them and hope it works, because GB and Yinding factory doesnt want
> to replace it.


Hello,

my replacement board was also defect. I contacted May and they sent me a new replacement board. However I still had to pay 0.01$ similar to the first order. 
I hope the new board works, the light itself is great but the complaint management is not perfect. Although May wrote Yinding won't pay for the replacement boards, the process itself needs too much time. Received the 5C Yinding in February and I still don't have the 3C light I ordered - and it's June right now. 
The next order probably is one of the lights mentioned as alternative.


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## RoadTire (Jan 6, 2014)

manbeer said:


> In all honesty, for that purpose probably all of these are a decent option. I have all except the nitenumen and they all have their strengths and weaknesses but can't go wrong either way.


MB: if you are responding to my post above (1948) you are sooo correct. I have hopes the Nitenumen will have a great throw straight down the trail, with the down-pointed beam not blinding oncoming cyclists or peds. Just switch the "high beam" off and on as needed. Otherwise choosing one of the other lights would be pretty easy. There is so much information in these threads about beam modifying mods.

If you aren't responding to my post...I'm kinda embarrassed...


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Yup, I was responding to your post lol. Nitenumen has me curious as I know there were a few of us interested and it never really got a thorough tear down and review like the others 

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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Wait, I did a tear down and review

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/nitenumen-bc-a2-xm-l2-r5-946489.html


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## RoadTire (Jan 6, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Wait, I did a tear down and review
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/nitenumen-bc-a2-xm-l2-r5-946489.html


Yep, another one of your typically thorough reviews. :thumbsup:


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## RoadTire (Jan 6, 2014)

Here's a thought: instead of a one optic down-facing (for commuting), wouldn't a Go-Pro style bar mount be solid enough not to move with road vibrations, yet we could just grap it with out hand and move it as needed during the ride?

Or will the O-ring mounts to that well enough? 

That way we have one button, one wide optic, one throw optic, and the most simple way not to blind oncoming folks when we need to. I have no objection to moving my hands around the bars when on the road. Not like I'm moving it ever couple minutes. I wouldn't hit the buttons that often anyway.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

That's how I do it, gopro mount, holds just fine off road but I can still grab and move the light up or down as needed. When Im going on or off trail helmet light if off and bar light pointed down low, once I get ready to actually enter the trail tilt it back up and turn helmet light on


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I just took some more beamshots using the Nitenumen. I will post them in a few days. I will put more seat time using the light and report my findings.


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## RoadTire (Jan 6, 2014)

GJHS said:


> I just took some more beamshots using the Nitenumen. I will post them in a few days. I will put more seat time using the light and report my findings.


Thank you! The timing is about perfect for me to stop waffling and make a decision.


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## RoadTire (Jan 6, 2014)

tigris99 said:


> That's how I do it, gopro mount, holds just fine off road but I can still grab and move the light up or down as needed. When Im going on or off trail helmet light if off and bar light pointed down low, once I get ready to actually enter the trail tilt it back up and turn helmet light on


DUH! I was waaaaay over-thinking the whole dumb thing. :madman: Thanks for the confirmation.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Beyond the gopro mount thing it really sounds like the nitenumen is going to fit the best for what your after. Alot of us run a bar and helmet light, bar set flood, helmet set throw/spot. For an idea here's a video I did to review the nitefighter lights but gives and idea what I mean.






Sorry can't embed from my phone so just click the YouTube link.


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

GJHS, how did I miss the updates on that?!? I remember you starting the thread but I didn't realize that it got to 6 pages. Think I stopped receiving the notifications soon after you posted it

Edit- pumped that someone else still runs bar ends outside the VRC forum lol

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk


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## RoadTire (Jan 6, 2014)

tigris99 said:


> it really sounds like the nitenumen is going to fit the best for what your after.  Sorry can't embed from my phone so just click the YouTube link.


Prefer the link anyway.  Good video. I'll go back and step through it more closely - you packed quite a bit of info with the paved trail shots.

Nitenumen as 1 count against it - Way ugly - Yinding is much better, plus more folks have mod'd the Yinding so there is a better base of good info.l


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Yes, IMO the yinding is the nicest looking of the group for sure

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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

If you use it correctly, it will be dark so looks are nothing.

What's neat about the Nitenuman is the two hot spots, one above the other so both beams are different. The Yinding is truly a cool little light if throw isn't a major need.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I noticed there are a few yindings for sale with different lumen ratings. some 1800 some 1000 but i see a lot of you are going for the 900 at gear best

Yinding 900Lm CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery Neutral White US Plug )-40.82 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

Is this version the most reputable? do you prefer cool or neutral white?

And lastly would this be a good option for a single helmet light and no bar light?

I was looking at this or the nitenumen bca2


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

The lumen output will be the same regardless of the version. The one from gearbest is one that is confirmed authentic as it appears that many are selling knockoffs, that the member who started this thread worked with gearbest and the manufacturer to fix some issues that the original had and switch to neutral white which is more pleasant on the eyes for most people 

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

^^ +1 and only buy from gearbest, have no idea what youll get from anywhere else. GJHS put insane amounts of work into this for us.

Problem is not knowing exactly what you need and if only running one light means youll be running on highest setting alot, in which case personally I'd go with nitefighter BT21. Better heatsink case and more output (turbo pushing 1300 lumens on the stock pack if you buy the kit). And its now been tested to desert heat by MR Mole. Handles hot summer temps better. Yinding on the other hand is really small and light weight, IMO better suited as a helmet light with a bar light combined. Which is why I wont part with my blue yinding hehe. Its my helmet light and put wide optics in mt bt21 for bars (until night temps stay 80 or above)


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I only ever used my simple 900l KNOCKOFF magicshine as a single helmet light. It provides to be enough on medium setting. I never ran on high. However, the pattern was kind of tight but the throw was plenty for my eyes. So brightness was fine but I was looking for slightly wider beam. 

That being said, any of yall just use the yinding or nitenumen as a single light? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

You can use the Yinding as a single light, but best if you change 1 optic to a 10 degree spot.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Ok great. I was hoping to buy the light one and a better quality battery pack from gear best so I can use my own cells. What mAh would you guys recommend getting? I see they are 8.4 but rated at 9000 6000 4000 ect. Sorry for all of the questions. I've been digging on this forum for days but haven't been able to understand what people are using to replace the cheap included Chinese batteries. 


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Well there are really only a few options if you want to use your own cells, the solarstorm which is a 4 cell case or the fenix which is a 2 cell but does not have a protection circuit and requires a plug swap to switch to a female end. If you are using it for the helmet, the 2 cell is a nice compact option though. A pair of 3400mah ncr18650b will run the yinding for a little under 2 hours on high 

The solarstorm case also requires some modification to make the most of it. If you charge your cells separately it's not a huge deal though 

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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I prefer the 4. I carry a pack with me. So if I plan to charge the batteries in a separate charger, no modding is necessary for the solar storm? I noticed the solar storm is also like 2000mAh for the 4x pack. Would that not provide enough power? 


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

kikoraa said:


> I noticed the solar storm is also like 2000mAh for the 4x pack. Would that not provide enough power?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ignore that 2,000mAh rating. Those are numbers that got lost in translation. Capacity will be based on whatever cells you put into it.

Just don't leave your cells in it (they will drain down) and don't rely on the protection circuitry. If I remember correctly the low voltage cut-off is set too low for comfort. Upper voltage limit won't affect you if you are charging outside the case.  Read up on the thread on that case.

-Garry


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## RoadTire (Jan 6, 2014)

GJHS said:


> If you use it correctly, it will be dark so looks are nothing.


My daughter would say, "oh ya, LIGHTBULB!)

:idea:


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

So decided to look closer at the gloworm optic matter, it seemed to be more yellow/warm tint...







I made a bad assumption, MY BLACK YINDING WAS SUPPOSED TO BE CORRECTED VERSION, nope had the warm white emitters I could see the difference in the phosphor between it and a known 3c... Toss that in the parts bin get a known 3c in there....






Leddna optics did a decent job of hiding it, gloworm optics on the other hand...






Freaking yinding



Update: Changed that emitter out (long story how it ended up on a noctigon in my yinding) and So much better.



Wish this thing didn't run so hot though. May move my bt21 to helmet and use my modded mj880 clone on the bars. Step down or not yinding imo is only a cool weather light. Love my blue one but summer is going to kill it.


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## michaelgermany (Jan 29, 2015)

Hello together, at the beginning of this year i purchased a neutral white yinding from gearbest. I `ve used at since then for 2 times the week. Yesterday while riding on lowest setting, i tried to switch up, but it didn't react. 

After stopping and pushing the button, which is noticeably pressed and the "click" sound is appearing, the same thing. I also couldn't switch off. So i disconnected the light from power and since then, i cant turn it on again.

If i connect power, the neutral white leds are flashing shortly at the connect and the "power indicator" led on the back turns green. Voltage is checked and is ok. 

Anybody has experienced the same or can tell me, which part is defective and can be replaced? i contacted gearbest but dont know if they will do anything or i have to reorder.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Sounds to me like you wore the switch out so its not making contact anymore. It can be tested if you have the proper knowledge to do it, and replaced with proper skills and tools. Otherwise you just need to replace it. IT is a cheap light and as much as it was used, switch finally not functioning anymore isnt surprising.

Otherwise its possible the current sense resistor finally fried. Happens all the time, another simple fix for someone who knows how. Problem is they often use a current sense resistor that is just barely big enough to handle the load.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

To check it out you can use tweezers and make a bridge (the connection) over the switch for a short time. That way you would simulate switch operation. If light operates that way then you just need to replace the switch. You can find them for cheap on ebay. 
If there is somemore serious problem, you can change the whole driver for the KD2 one, so you won't need to buy the whole new light.


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## michaelgermany (Jan 29, 2015)

Thx for the fast answers.
If i switch to the kd2 board ,i still need solder the board to my current leds, right? If, then i need to reconsider and ask colleagues if they have equipment for that.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yes of course, in any case you would need some solder skills and equipment. For switch replacemnet you would need quite small solder tip. I would suggest to check the switch first and then decide what to do.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

michaelgermany said:


> Thx for the fast answers.
> If i switch to the kd2 board ,i still need solder the board to my current leds, right? If, then i need to reconsider and ask colleagues if they have equipment for that.


It's a 15 minute job to replace the board and trim the switch button if you have basic soldering skills.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I didn't think about kd2 driver. that's the simplest fix.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

So I made an insane yinding now. Xp-L v6 emitters love spot optics lol. And yinding driver will run them at full power (some drivers are optimized to xm-l2 only, dont like high Vf XP series emitters)


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## Morten Schmidt (Apr 25, 2014)

tigris99 said:


> So I made an insane yinding now. Xp-L v6 emitters love spot optics lol. And yinding driver will run them at full power (some drivers are optimized to xm-l2 only, dont like high Vf XP series emitters)


I thought this light had a problem coming out of regulation when battery voltage goes below the sum of Vf. So, higher Vf sounds like kind of a bad idea?

Well, I'm a total newbie so don't take it too hard. What are the upsides of the XP-L V6 over an XM-L2 U2 3C?

And also, which bin actually comes stock with this light?

Sorry, I haven't been able to read through all 80 previous pages but have found some links to LEDDNA 10+25 degree lenses back on page 26 and ordered those along with orings. Hope that will make for a nice lightweight helmet light!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

The 10 optic I got I couldn't get to work well, most of us go with the 15-45-60 style ones they work well, post up if you have good luck with the 10.

I just tried them because their output is higher and their a bit more efficient (run a bit cooler) than xm-l2. Not a huge difference but it am experimenting cause I can. The VF isn't that much higher so effects of that aren't big deal, just drops from regulation slightly sooner.

Being 3c tint, they are u2 bin, so highest bin easily available for NW emitters.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Morten Schmidt said:


> I thought this light had a* problem coming out of regulation* when battery voltage goes below the sum of Vf. So, higher Vf sounds like kind of a bad idea?


This is not a problem of this light. It is just how things are working unless you have fully regulated driver. Fully regulated driver has to be Buck/Boost (buck = decrease the voltage, boost = increase the voltage). Yinding being just a buck driver it stays in regulation as long as the voltage of battery pack stays over the sum of Vf (minus voltage drop over the driver circuit,which is small, but it is there).

When voltage is below Vf leds starts to dimm. So higher the Vf of the leds, dimming is going to happen sooner. But human eye would adapt to that situation and you won't recognize it very soon. Photo camera would sense any small difference, but human eye won't. It is more logarthmic way of sensing while photo camera is linear.


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## Morten Schmidt (Apr 25, 2014)

tigris99 said:


> The 10 optic I got I couldn't get to work well, most of us go with the 15-45-60 style ones they work well, post up if you have good luck with the 10.


Oh shoot, there goes $0.80 down the drain.. lol. Are these the style you know to work well?
15, 45, 60 degrees Lens for CREE XML XM-L LED - LEDDNA

And will I need any other parts like extra o-rings with those lenses?

I guess 2 x 15degrees would be nice for a helmet light? Or perhaps 15+45 would be more comfortable? i guess I could just order some and try it out. Would like something with a similar beam to my trusty old Magicshine 808E.



tigris99 said:


> Being 3c tint, they are u2 bin, so highest bin easily available for NW emitters.


Gearbest doesn't really advertise them as U2. I was thinking since they don't say, they might be T6 3C (or worse?). Has anyone confirmed the bin with certainty? If you have, awesome, then I won't bother changing them, but if we're not sure I think I will try changing them.



ledoman said:


> This is not a problem of this light. It is just how things are working unless you have fully regulated driver.


I guess it is how it is with these buck-driver double-LED designs running on 2S2P batteries. Would it be fair to say this type of light has a problem relative to a single-LED light which will be able to run the battery down to 6V, thus increasing the amount of energy consumed from the battery?

I guess they could run the LED's in parallel, but that it would require almost twice the power components to do so.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

No reason that I know of. You also may have ordered different 10deg than me ill have to look. You wont get a beam the same as a reflector/lens, the spot its much tighter in a reflector set up.


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## Morten Schmidt (Apr 25, 2014)

Allright, looking at the Vf curve for the LED's the coming out of regulation thing seems like less of a problem. Guess one can think of it as a way of gradually backing off power when battery voltage is low. Preferable to the way my magicshine just powers off with no notice. That happened to me in the 24h race 3 weeks ago, on a fast section of trail when the battery pack I thought was good decided to pack it in. Not very nice as I was running helmet-light only (makes for quicker pit stops not having to change a battery strapped to the frame). 

With regard to the optics, are the known-to-be-working 15 degree the one I linked to in my last post from LEDDNA?

Also, I saw your post on using one 15-degree and one Gloworm XS and that seemed to make sense to me so I will get one of the GW spots as well. If I wanted some elliptical lenses as well, where should I look for those?

Also, has anyone confirmed the stock emitters are U2 3C and not T6 3C?? If they are, why wouldn't gearbest be advertising the product as U2??


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Those are the right optics

The light head will cut power off at a certain point, only warning you get is the light on the button changes color. But the cut off is really low.

The difference in t6 and u2 for the same tint isn't even noticable unless you get low end on t6 bin and high end on u2 bin. Which is impossible to know or control. But t6 3c isn't readily available. 3c tint is u2 for most things these days.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

So what is the consensus on this light vs. a BT21 for helmet use? Do LEDDNA 15 degree optics provide much improvement? Narrower further throwing beam? 

Seams the BT21 will handle heat better, but it has off & an almost unusable low in the mode cycle so that's three presses from Turbo to get back to Medium.

Thoughts? 
-Garry


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

I hope your comparing yinding to bt-21. garry you will like the bt21 tint. The tint looked very neutral, almost warm. If you can mount it to your helmet go for it. I would pick yinding over bt21 for bars. On the bt21 the button seemed easier to press. The anodizing finish was nicer, the light output was ok on medium. I liked the pattern on the yinding more. If your not modding the leds to a warmer tint get the bt21. If your moding it's your call, I had limited experience with the bt21. The turbo mode was crazy bright. (brighter than yinding) I don't know why looking at the beam pattern it reminded me of a projector, such that the pattern was rectangular. Having them side by side the bt21 had a larger vertical spread, but weaker horizontal spread. Might have been the mounting angle.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Garry, low mode with stock optics is pretty low, with dual spot optics its more useable. Personally I think low is useable just fine for road and such like any other light.

And its only 2 clicks to medium. 3 to high . Off IS NOT in the modes like the yinding is, its long press for off other wise cycle modes.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> So what is the consensus on this light vs. a BT21 for helmet use? Do LEDDNA 15 degree optics provide much improvement? Narrower further throwing beam?
> 
> Seams the BT21 will handle heat better, but it has off & an almost unusable low in the mode cycle so that's three presses from Turbo to get back to Medium.
> 
> ...


Hi Garry,
From your comments I'm assuming your going for max. throw. The stock optics on both lights are not the best at this. You will definitely see a throw improvement on both lights with the Leddna 15° optic with an equal reduction in beam width. With Gloworm XS spot optics you'll get about the same throw as the Leddna 15° but far less loss of beam width for the increased cost. IMO the Leddna is probably a better deal but the Gloworm is definitely a better optic. With the optic upgrade in both lights the BT21 far out-throws the Yinding. I'm sure if you modify your Yinding you can get more throw but then you have a lot of extra heat to deal with. Both my BT21 and Yinding are stock with optic changes and "Vancbiker finned Gopro heat-sink mounts". In 100° ambient temps. the BT21 runs about 10° cooler than the Yinding even though it makes more power and modifying the Yinding will only make this worse.
Those are some of my observations. I just got my 2nd Bt21 in the mail today so it's not hard to figure out which light I like the best.
Mole


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks for all the info! So I was confused and the BT21 does in fact have off out of the mode cycle! That's a definite plus! I'm not really looking for "max" throw, but definitely something that will likely out throw the bar light. "Wide throwing" is probably a good way to describe what I want. I don't think I want "tunnel effect" either. I'm still learning exactly what I do want. I do know that I would really like to run the helmet light on a 2 cell Fenix case and would love to be able to add the remote switch like Tigris99 has with his Yinding. (That's not easy on the BT21 is it?)

I tried out my Yinding again last night (just handheld outside) and can see how that switch could be annoying trying to press quickly on a helmet. Beam pattern looked ok, but could use tightened up some (i.e. narrowed).

These are the correct "good" 15 degree lenses, right?

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya those are the right optics.



As for the remote, no not easy as driver is potted with silicone. Takes some careful work with a pick set to release it, have to clear out all the silicone from underneath so driver can come forward a little then drop down for switch clear.


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## MichaelHa (Jan 29, 2015)

I received my second replacement board, little bit too large. I tried to modify the board so that it fits into the body of the lamp. One sealing got broken and I'm not happy with the result.
I'd like to order a new Yinding, but the old coupon code 'Yinding' has expired.
Does anyone of you know any other valid code for the Yinding? 

Best wishes,
Michael


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

There is no more coupon codes.


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## hankering (Dec 28, 2014)

I'm still waiting on the first promised replacement board, swapping mail repeatedly with Gearbest support staff. It's a contest to see who gives up first, I think. Also using messaging to their customer support at BLF for variety. I notice today Gearbest has the Yinding light -- and the replacment board -- both listed in their current "flash sale" at prices higher than they've sold for previously. 

EDIT Aug. 21 -- following up with a new comment below.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

What concerns me, they list the color temp for 3c at 5k-5300..... So which is it, 3c or 2 something. That why I just buy emitters from mtnelectronics.com. I know what im getting and changing emitters takes 15 minutes.


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## MichaelHa (Jan 29, 2015)

I ordered a new Yinding (head only) and got a discounted price using the Code Yinding2015

I don't know if this code is valid for all Yinding products, but may be worth a try.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok I asked Nefertari to make a coupon to give people another chance to buy the Yinding at a great price. Here's the codes and links

"YYblackCW" ---- Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 - Modes Cool White Headlight Cycling Lamp ( 4 x 18650 Battery Pack )-33.14 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com ---- $24.99

"YYblackNW" ---- Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( Neutral White )-31.98 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com ----- $25.69

"YYcolorNW" ---- Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( Neutral White )-33.14 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com ----- $25.69

The coupon is available until September 30. Thanks Nefertari!


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

So what is the current status on these things? I see this has turned mainly into a mod-fest thread but just wondering if the current crop on GB is decent? I see they have a lighthead only option - a buddy of mine wants one and I just was curious what the current thinking was (won't be modding, just will use as-is with a higher-quality battery).


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## hankering (Dec 28, 2014)

I bought my first one last December, got the much too warm one.
(Did buy another neutral white, which is fine.)
Been trying to get the replacement board for the too-warm one since.
More mail yesterday, re-re-verified who and where I am, and what I've been expecting to get: this one

http://http://forums.mtbr.com/light...2-found-941540-post12021915.html#post12021915

Cree XM - L2 3C LED Emitter for Yinding Headlamp ( 5000 - 5500K )-5.56 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

Maybe this will do it.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Seems the BT21 is the better of the two lights. Clincher for me was BT21 has off out of the mode cycle (press-n-hold) and has better heat dissipation. Downsides on BT21 is that low is really low and can't really leave it on turbo very long. And the BT21 will certainly require a decent battery (Yinding too, but BT21 pulls a bit more current). 

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Why can't you leave bt21 on turbo??? I have 2 and do it all the time never an issue. The yinding runs A HECK OF A LOT hotter and the bt21 runs quite a bit higher current. Ive only had my bt21 step down once and that was during testing to make it step down. My yinding steps down if left on high on the 80+deg nights every time I take it out (keep in mind trails I usually ride are lots of slow tight trail and climbing, its not the same as the faster trails I did the bt21 video on). Bt21 on turbo handles it alot better. But too if I bring the bt21 down from turbo it doesn't turn off like yinding does.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

garrybunk said:


> .....Downsides on BT21 is that low is really low


Is the low too dim to read a map and compass with? If it is bright enough for doing that, I would not consider that a downside. Too bright and map reading becomes all glare and washed out. Also takes longer for your night vision to recover. Would be nice if that low mode were not in the regular mode cycle though.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Sorry Tig, I thought the consensus was not to leave the BT21 on Turbo long without air movement. I just finally ordered a BT21, so none of my comments are based on experience. 

Same goes for how low "low" is. I don't have experience with it, but it sounds like it's too low (or maybe on the verge of being too low) to ride with. I'm sure it's plenty (maybe too much?) for map reading. 

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

My experience is different Tigris. My BT21, while a great light, gets much hotter on Turbo than my Yinding on high. Are you speaking of your modded Yinding? Of course, running both that high is usually completely unnecessary especially at low speed. I also prefer the tint of the Yinding NW, the BT21 is a bit yellow for my taste.

Both are great lights, and I still love my Yinding. A great combination of size, power and performance. Now with the coupon, it puts the Yinding back as a great deal.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

When I was checking I did it against my black one (stock output). But my modded one runs the same output as my bt21 just that bt21 low is lower than yinding low. So yinding low matches bt21 medium, medium = high, high = turbo give or take 0.1A. Those 2 side by side yinding on medium (1.3A) bt21 high (1.3A) the yinding heats up alot faster and is alot hotter. Stock black yinding on wind tunnel test runs 16-18deg hotter on high than bt21 on turbo. Little to no air flow bt21 will get hotter by nature due to higher output but moving at all it runs substantially cooler.

All that said, dont let it deter you from a yinding, I love both of mine. I wish they had made the casing a tad larger so grooves were a bit deeper (easier for it to deal with warm summer nights) but its still an awesome light.

The decision comes down to if where you ride is hot at night and if the extra 400+ lumens is worth the little extra weight (oh and bt21 off is hidden, long press for off).

I own both and have no desire to get rid of either, always an internal argument as to which one to take when I ride, outside temps and what trails are what decides which I use.


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## Andreas H (Aug 1, 2015)

I would like to use my Busch&Müller rearlight together with my Yinding. It is made for use with a dynamo, but I checked the voltage of 8,4V and it worked fine.

So the only problem is that I have to solder the cable ( going to the rearlight) to the Yinding. If i turn on the Yinding I also want the rearlight to start.

https://fotki.yandex.ru/next/users/kirvelo/album/365720/view/749285

What do you think. Can I solder it to the two spots right under the switch?
If that is wrong, where should i put it?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Hooking up to the switch WILL NOT power the tail light. The momentary switch does NOT carry power for anything, it is based off the ground side of the circuit and simply makes a connection for the chip to read telling it to switch modes.

If you are trying ot power a tail light off the same battery as the yinding is plugged into, you will need a "Y" extension cable and will have to add a connector to your tail light that will plug into the Y cable. DO NOT SOLDER ANY CABLE inside the yinding. Doing so for any reason without proper knowledge can result in the light shorting out or severe damage to your battery. The Y cable will be all you need to power both once you have the correct connector on the tail light.

You need to not "test" the tail light and instead read the specifications of the tail light to make sure it will handle the voltage. Just because it works fine for brief test does NOT mean that it will work for very long if the light is not designed to handle the extra voltage.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

I'll chime in with an update. My brother and I have been running the Yinding "bright white" on our bars on at least one ride a week for the entire summer. We've had HOT humid nights where our rides end close to 10 pm and the temp will still be above 80. 

We've both run them with the stock plastic mount and rubber band, and stock battery. They've held up very well. I have no idea how long they will last on medium with the stock battery that comes with the GB kit, but we've ridden as long as 2 hours after dark and never had an issue. 

BUT...and this is the caveat, we NEVER run them on high. At first, if we hit a fast decent I would ramp it up to high, but now I never mess with it other than turning it off if we're going to be sitting still for awhile. 

We've both found that medium is fine for our needs in conjunction with a single emitter helmet light with good throw. They're so light and convenient to take on and off that I don't really think about it anymore. I have a Xeccon Sogn 900 that is a better light in every way performance wise, but it's got a 6 cell battery which is heavy. The light head is heavier and has the aluminum quick release bar mount, and the remote bar switch is just an extra step in the process. If I were going on a really long ride or doing a night race, I would use it...otherwise, the Yinding serves our purposes very well. 

I'm so used to riding with that combination that even when it cools off in the fall, I doubt I'll switch back to using high on the Yinding. I'm hoping it will help with longevity too. 

Has anyone out there had one cook and die on them?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

They don't cook and die right away, these have thermal step down to protect against that.


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## Andreas H (Aug 1, 2015)

If I can not use the switch of the Yinding to power the taillight (this way), then I have to reconsider my whole assembly. 

The Y cable will not be necessary. I just used a thin cable, tin and shrink tubes. All cables are connected by soldering , except the Yinding, it still has its original connector. I have put the battery pack in a bag below my saddle. From there a cable goes to (near) the headset and divides there:
1.The connector which once was at the battery pack(the Yinding is plugged there) 2. to my headlight (Busch und müller lumotec iq cyo premium). From there a cable going back to the taillight. The cable is in a shrink tube, together with the cable which comes from the battery pack.

The headlight has a switch which can turn on the taillight. It all runs with 8.4V

But I don't like the headlight. The Yinding on lowest mode directed on the same spot and you can't even see anything of the headlight. It is really weak...this is really strange as it is the strongest LED light of Busch&Müller. There are two types of frontlights...for dynamo use and for DC(mine works from 6-42V and should produce 80lux). I tried it with a power supply at different voltages. allways nearly the same brightness.
This is the reason why I want to remove this headlight and why I am looking for a new way to switch on my rearlight.


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

TiGeo said:


> So what is the current status on these things? I see this has turned mainly into a mod-fest thread but just wondering if the current crop on GB is decent? I see they have a lighthead only option - a buddy of mine wants one and I just was curious what the current thinking was (won't be modding, just will use as-is with a higher-quality battery).


I bought one , light head only...I dont trust the cheap batteries OR chargers.
Then again I am invested in decent 18650 cells and very nice charger..
So I bought that 2S2P battery case that takes four cells individually.
YMMV
CDT


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## Andreas H (Aug 1, 2015)

I have so many blue Bosch accus in my garage. They are Li-ION 10,8V 1300mAH(the older one) and 2000mAH.
I have opened one: they are 18650 cells by Samsung, so 3S1P 

They would be perfect for my Yinding, asthey fit perfect in the bag under my saddle.

Does anyone have experience with DC-DC converters and can tell me which are good?

in-Voltage:10-12,75V
out-voltage: 8-8,5V
Power: one Yinding and 2 small LEDs(front and rear light...for german law *g*)



I found cheap chinese one for 3 dollar/euro including shipping^^ unbelievably

Thank you


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Dont know of anyone using a converter, the driver already steps the voltage down, all a second converter is going to do is waste power (loose run time). Be better to break the packs down and turn into a 2s3p pack. If you can solder its easy.


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## Andreas H (Aug 1, 2015)

I could break this accu packs down down, but then I could not charge it with the bosch charger in under 1h and ven more important i could not use it any longer in any of my five 10,8V Bosch Tools . Before I bought my first 18650 cells, I wanted to break down a Ryobi 18V 4AH Pack, it contains 10 18650 cells.
If I would break the 10,8V packs, then I would have to solder packs out of them, including protection and balancing of the cells. Balancing would need a lipo charger if the balancing is done by the charger. I have read a lot, thought about all this, even made lists with all the parts, wires and adapters and the charger.

On the other hand: I have seen a broken flashlight (Bosch 10,8V) on ebay for 3.5e. I want to remove everything exept the holder for the accu, so that I can solder some wire to it and it's really easy so switch the accupacks this way. The wire goes to the DC DC Converter where the voltage is reduced from max. 12,5V to about 8,4V.
When the input voltage drops, the output would also drop i think, but that does not have to be a problem.
I think it could be useful to build some simple polarity protection and fuse here.
that's it...but i am sure there are some parts i don't know everything about.



> Dont know of anyone using a converter, the driver already steps the voltage down....


 I must confess that I unfortunately do not know how far the voltage of the Yinding can be increased. Can you please tell me what's the highest voltage? But I think 12.5V are to much???

It should not sound like it is about the money, but more important for me is to keep it simple...I already have the yinding charger, 4 tool chargers, a lot of battery charger , really lot of accupacks. why buy more if I have a perfect system. I really did a lot to get my lights running with the already installed 36V accupack of the ebike or the 6V/8W light- output at the ebike-motor, both was not possible due to garanty and software problems.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

It cannot be increased much. 8.7 is the highest ive taken it, no one is going to test it because too much voltage will fry the driver. My "test" was simply using 4.35v Samsung 18650 cells, so 8.7v pack. It works fine on that so far partially because once light is turned on, voltage sag drops to 8.3-8.4.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Andreas, playing with all this stuff is OK, specialy if you want to learn. On the other hand you would end with to much complicated system. But it's up to you and your wishies.

If it was me I would take some good pairs (tested by Opus, capacity and IR wise) and solder 2S2P pack which you can charge with Yinding charger. The other option is to use 2S2P battery case and drop some quality cells in it. Of course there are other variations too.

Regarding stepdown converter, keep in mind it have some caveats:
- heating (you would need cooling or have oversized converter)
- no overdischarge protection unless your existing tool batteries have it
- looses (tipicaly 80% efficiency)
- voltage on the input side has to be somewhat higher (1-2V) than output side otherwise converter can't work
- you may add some capacitor if the converter doesn't have one on the output side. This would prevent flickering. 
+no voltage sag on the output side so set it to 8.4V max. Tigris, when you use batteries there is always voltage sag. In case of stepdown converter this won't happen unless some heating issues or it could not keep up with the current (continiusly up to 2A in this case).

So not as simple as you might think, not counting wiring.


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## Andreas H (Aug 1, 2015)

> that's it...but i am sure there are some parts i don't know everything about.





> So not as simple as you might think, not counting wiring


Haha, yes, that's what I thought about. the heating problem inside the saddlebag would only the beginning. The little-converter-thing for 3e sounded to good^^
I will keep it as just an idea ;-)


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Actualy I see one good point using converter. You can maintain somewhat constant voltage tad above sum of led Vf + voltage drop difference, so no aditional energy waste on that part. Of course the waste is already happening at converter part. But if you must use it, then you can get more or less constant brightnes out of Yinding, no dependancy as with tipical 2SxP battery voltage sag. 

This is true for all lights with unregulated buck drivers where Sum of Vf is just below battery pack voltage. Tipicaly 2 leds in series and 2 battery cells in series relation (Yinding, KD2, MJ880 clone, BT21?, .....).

Of course as human eyes are adaptive we don't notice the lumen sag very much unless we have reference to compare to (another light) or when the sag is substantial ie. light gets dimm.

Just little brainstorming from my side


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## hankering (Dec 28, 2014)

EDIT Aug 28 I got email saying they'd sent me TWO replacement boards and to give one away.

Today in the mail I got the envelope. It contains ONE replacement board. It was in an envelope forwarded by "Everbuying" in the US, with the "Everbuying" sticker over top of the import declaration sticker.

The board has been crushed --dedomed one of the emitters and left the glue and phosphor smeared across the inside of the plastic bag. I wonder when that happened.


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## hankering (Dec 28, 2014)

And yesterday, I got a _second_ envelope -- this one direct via Netherlands Post

This one is better packaged and the board/LEDs are not crushed.

Haven't lit it up yet, but this ought to be ok.


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## michaelgermany (Jan 29, 2015)

Has anybody found another Case than the Solarstorm one with 4*18650 Cells which he uses with the yinding?


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## MichaelHa (Jan 29, 2015)

Hi there

Is there any new promotion code for the Yinding lights?

Regards
Michael


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

So did anyone purchase warm Yinding lately? 
Are they still too yellow like they were in first batch about a year ago or did they change the LEDs in warm version?


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

They changed it for 4C I believe
I have it...you can stop by and check it. BTW dont forget to bring my tyre


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

They've been 3c tint since early summer. The 4c look is the stock optics pulling the yellow out more, U2 bin is what's used which is 3c tint for NW.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Wanted to buy some of these, out of stock. Im not having much luck lately


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

SO the NW have been improved? I have a SSx2 in cool and with just it alone I am having a hell of a time seeing rocks ect with all the leaves on the ground. GB has the cool whites in stock but im thinking I would like the NW, but I have never used any NW before. Would the NW improve the depth of field issues I have been having? (i used to use a bar light+helmet and dont remember having the issues before)


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Helmet light only you loose the shadows, that's the big issue. Adding in using cool white emitters with leaf cover your not going to see anything.

Main thing is you need a bar light.

NW tint light will help too but not NEAR as much as having a light on the bars to bring out shadows.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Your main issue is one light..not the tint.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Used my modified Yindings for a full week on a dental mission to Belize.
10-step driver, heat-sinking Gopro mount from Kevin.
I brought a sack of lights and battery packs for the team.

I only used the lower powers, and had great light all day.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Nice pictures, and unusual implementation of bike light! :thumbsup:

BTW, another example from Russian bike forum - power outage doesn't affect this kid:
http://велосвет.рф/pic/VM/polfon.jpg


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Helmet light only you loose the shadows, that's the big issue. Adding in using cool white emitters with leaf cover your not going to see anything.
> 
> Main thing is you need a bar light.
> 
> NW tint light will help too but not NEAR as much as having a light on the bars to bring out shadows.


Yea I figured, I dont remeber having the issue with my bar/head single xmls in cool. So reading back, it looks like the NW issue was fixed. I plan on 2 NW. one for bars and one for head with 10deg optics and maybe a sens resistor mod just on the head.

My 1st gen SSx2 work pretty well but I like the idea of being able to change optics easy.
thanks for the replies. I will wait for the NW if the tint has been corrected.


----------



## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I know in the colored ones it has been corrected, my black one was pre-fix.

Btw dont do the mod to the driver for helmet, get xp-l hi on noctigons and a couple butterfly spacers, all from mtnelectronics. It'll do far more for throw than boosting (and dealing with extra heat which yinding is really too small for) the driver. Xp-l Hi V2 3c on 16mm noctigons does amazing things to the yinding for helmet use. If you do the resistor mod, only use an r500 (2.5A output total) and get gopro finned adapter from vancbiker.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Did you ever post beam shots on the xpl ying. Or was that the bt21? I remeber seeing some crazy throw with the xpl.

Im so scared to order theNW. Im ordering 4 CW for team members and 2 Nw light heads for myself. I would imagine they are fixed by now. Atthis point i dont want to spend money of new leds. Maybe next season. I will tryout the optics first and go from there. 

I did a 24h race with 2 SSx2 (original batch of good ones) and on mediim it was plently light at race pace. Are the these brighter then the SS? Or close.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Compared to the new ones now, they are better output.

You should make all your buddys ride NW lights too 

Oh and I did a bt21 with xp-l HI (there is a 2 different versions of xp-l. The regular is about the same as xm-l2)


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Light heads only in stock for nw. Team will need full kits. And im affraid for the amount they get used they may want the "brighter" CW. I have an unlimited supply of sanyo 2600mah batteries. Probably not the best but hey, they are free. Just need to find a good battery protection board. Always had trouble finding the right ones.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Used my modified Yindings for a full week on a dental mission to Belize.
> 10-step driver, heat-sinking Gopro mount from Kevin.


Awesome work there Dr. Richard!

I see that you are using my prototype "LoPro" adapter. Any feedback? I've got a few folks wanting them, but don't want to run a batch until I get some idea that they work OK.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

GearBest has the Yindings on pre-Black Friday sale. Looks like it applies to Black Light Head only

$25.99 USD
Coupon Code: YYNWEM


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

The LoPro is fine for headband, but actually the original mount sits better on the helmet if mounted backwards (bolt towards the front, keeps light compact)

Heatsinking was very handy- it was steamy hot in the clinic.



Vancbiker said:


> Awesome work there Dr. Richard!
> 
> I see that you are using my prototype "LoPro" adapter. Any feedback? I've got a few folks wanting them, but don't want to run a batch until I get some idea that they work OK.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Isn't the "normal" price $27.03?

Not much of a discount, but I'll take it!


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Well I placed my order for 4 CW kit and 2 NW heads only. Selected Royalmail option as I have always had good luck on duty from CRC and Wiggle. See how long it takes.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ofroad'bent said:


> The LoPro is fine for headband, but actually the original mount sits better on the helmet if mounted backwards (bolt towards the front, keeps light compact)
> 
> Heatsinking was very handy- it was steamy hot in the clinic.


Helmet use we aim for low profile and thermal management. Bolt towards the front hinders air flow over the mounts fins which is why we put bolt to the rear. Low pro version to me means lower profile (less snaging on branchs and such) and even less air flow restriction to bring temps down more.

Btw awesome idea using it as actual head lamp for what you do. Goes to show sometimes the best tools are not the ones always "made for the specifc job"


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

OK I put XP-L hi emitters in my blue yinding. Beam pattern (as it should be) is exactly the same as bt21. Only difference is bt21 has higher output. That said, the yinding on these at stock output is still RATHER NICE for throw. Much better than before or any other set up I have tried outside of reflectors (which dont fit these kinds of lights) for tighter spot/more throw.

Now its with my lights for night riding again. its cold out so the temps the yinding runs at normally wont be an issue, be lucky if I can get it beyond warm now  Making a good snow riding light when I take my fatbike out.


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## mastakilla (Sep 3, 2005)

Total Newbie Question.

Which light do should I get from Gear Best. 
1) Yinding Cool White
2) Yinging Neutral White (currently shows OOS)
3) SolarStorm X2

I like the look and size and the yinding better but I am wondering if SSX2 has better performance?

Also which is preferred in the yinding, cool white or neutral white?

Thanks in advance


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Yinding is all around better especially in quality and the fact you can buy easily available optics to change beam pattern. Plus its output is slightly higher. Yinding has a bit wider beam pattern, x2 is a bit more spotty. But yinding wins hands down.

Tint though alot of us prefer neutral white, its a personal preference as some people still prefer cool white.


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## mastakilla (Sep 3, 2005)

tigris99 said:


> Yinding is all around better especially in quality and the fact you can buy easily available optics to change beam pattern. Plus its output is slightly higher. Yinding has a bit wider beam pattern, x2 is a bit more spotty. But yinding wins hands down.
> 
> Tint though alot of us prefer neutral white, its a personal preference as some people still prefer cool white.


Ok, thanks.

What battery do you recommend for the light?

Also, where do they sell the optics to change the beam pattern?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

See the thread here on quality battery pack with Panasonic cells- this is what you want.
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...ck-kaidomain-com-reasonable-price-995303.html

Optics from LEDDNA. They come in a housing that you don't need.
Also consider a heat-sinking aluminum GoPro mount from Vancbiker here on MTBR rather than the rubber-band mount.
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...apter-fins-additional-heatsinking-958312.html



mastakilla said:


> Ok, thanks.
> 
> What battery do you recommend for the light?
> 
> Also, where do they sell the optics to change the beam pattern?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Just finished modding my Yinding with XP-L HI neutral white emitters, 10 degree LEDDNA optics, and remote switch. Wasn't that hard of a mod. Need to get beamshots yet and then I'll post before & afters.



-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I told you it was really easy


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Yeah. One tricky thing to note is that the wires used in that PTT switch are not conductive until you tin them! I was trying to test out the switch with a DMM before attaching it and was wondering why it wasn't working. Guess they have a coating so that they don't short out in the casing.

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya its the same insulated coating that inductors wires have, dc motors etc. Have to "strip" the coating to expose copper for use.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

A quick hit with a lighter flame is enough to get the coating off....but really quick lol.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Meh, my soldering iron does a good job too lol.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

garrybunk said:


> ..One tricky thing to note is that the wires used in that PTT switch are not conductive until you tin them! I was trying to test out the switch with a DMM before attaching it and was wondering why it wasn't working. Guess they have a coating so that they don't short out in the casing.


Google "Litz wire". You'll see what you you have and why each conductor is insulated.


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## nathan89 (Feb 7, 2015)

What is the remote that was used? I remember something being mentioned before & tried to find something similar on eBay UK, but found nothing :/


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Its a push to talk remote adapter (ptt remote). We get them off eBay. We have a seller in the states with them or you get them out of china via eBay.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I think this is the link I bought from (US Seller). Just search for "PTT Remote":

PTT Remote Switch for Throat Mic Fit KG UVD1P TG UV2 | eBay

-Garry


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## rsilvers (Aug 23, 2015)

TiGeo said:


> ^^^precisely. Remember...the Duo lighthead is only $115 from Jim at Action-led-lights.com. It's a great unit and my Yinding is only used as a backup now and on my road bike.


$150 in 2015.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

rsilvers said:


> $150 in 2015.


Nope, you can buy the lighthead for $100 right now on clearance. Your not selecting the head only option, $150 is the full kit with battery pack and such.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

As someone who doesn't have the time or inclination to tinker, would you recommend the Gemini over the BT21, etc.?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Bt21 has higher output. Duo is just the original that the yinding copies. Kind of depends on if your light is going on helmet or bars.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Ok, I've posted a write up on my Yinding mod over at BLF in My Bike Lights thread complete with mouseover pics. Very impressive mod! Highly recommended!

New Beamshots (much better seen at the BLF link):


and



-Garry


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

tigris99 said:


> Bt21 has higher output. Duo is just the original that the yinding copies. Kind of depends on if your light is going on helmet or bars.


This would be a helmet mounted light.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Yinding or duo stock has tighter spot (bt21 has tight spot but frosted so alot of light is spread out). And duo/yinding are a bit lighter.

If it was me id do the 10 minutes of work/buy 10deg optics from leddna and get a bt21. Dont have to do any special work to use the 10deg optics, just remove the white holders they come in. Bt21 having substantially higher output will do better if you ride more open trails. Tight wooded stuff then yinding or duo would be fine.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

garrybunk said:


> Just finished modding my Yinding with XP-L HI neutral white emitters, 10 degree LEDDNA optics, and remote switch. Wasn't that hard of a mod. Need to get beamshots yet and then I'll post before & afters.
> 
> https://s111.photobucket.com/user/g...Duo Clone - GearBest/20151128_105847.jpg.html
> 
> -Garry


Nice work!!

And good timing. I was just thinking about what I could do to my yindings....

I gave up on the BT21.. I have 10 batteries so I don't need more. And I can't buy just the light heads.

So I run two yindings on my bars. Do you think there is a way to mod them for two connections to a single remote? I'd like to set them up turn on off at the same time.

Maybe if I wired each up for the remote and then put them a y plug of some kind to a single remote. Just starting to think about this.

Also where did you source your LEDs from? Do you have any more details on those steps of your mod?

thanks!


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## rsilvers (Aug 23, 2015)

What benefit are the LED changes supposed to do?

I ordered the optics.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

We get emitters from mtnelectronics.com. 

The mod he did is NOT worth it for bar use. The leds that come stock have a bit higher output. The mod he did (I did the same mod a while back) is for helmet set up. For bars no need to change.

The rest of the mod isn't easy, have to drill the case, get the switch etc. Then be able to reseal the case. Making it the set up work for 2 lights takes more knowledge of electronics, its not some you can "just do".


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Funny news: my colleague has recently ordered Yinding in "full set" variant from GB: the package arrived today. Apart from the charger & light head itself, there's two batteries in the box, and no headband mount! He said he's not going to file a complain...


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## rsilvers (Aug 23, 2015)

Seems risky to let GB pick the unknown battery when they separately sell batteries with NCR18650B for very low prices.


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

tigris99 said:


> We get emitters from mtnelectronics.com.
> 
> The mod he did is NOT worth it for bar use. The leds that come stock have a bit higher output. The mod he did (I did the same mod a while back) is for helmet set up. For bars no need to change.
> 
> The rest of the mod isn't easy, have to drill the case, get the switch etc. Then be able to reseal the case. Making it the set up work for 2 lights takes more knowledge of electronics, its not some you can "just do".


That's funny. I thought the mod to do the remote was the easier of the two! I will probably still do the remote since it's nice and will match my gloworms.

thanks for the info.. I also just found the other thread over in DIY forum...


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

BTW, *ledoman, tigris99*: could you please recommend me some currently available contact person at GB who can understand the questions and able/willing to actually do something?

I've currently put myself in the old trouble: being active online shopper, I've forgotten my own year-old story and "Never ever! Do not participate in GB's pre-sale campaigns!!!" warnings... :lol:


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

ljracer said:


> That's funny. I thought the mod to do the remote was the easier of the two! I will probably still do the remote since it's nice and will match my gloworms.
> 
> thanks for the info.. I also just found the other thread over in DIY forum...


I actually found the remote install to be quite easy. You followed the link to "My Bike Lights Thread" over at BLF, right? I quickly covered the remote install and emitters swap there. Yes, I bought the emitters from Mountain Electronics and optics from LEDDNA. Tigris is right though, you don't want to use these emitters on the bars.

If you want to "play", order a selection of optics from LEDDNA (their cheap) - different angles and the ellipticals (maybe even try the gloworm ellipticals from Action LED - though I don't know how well they fit). A lot of users like the combo of (1) 10º and (1) 25º I believe. If you want to run two lightheads, perhaps you try one light with 25's and one with 10's .

To others, why wouldn't the remote work controlling both lightheads (parallel connected across both switches either by way of a splitter or directly wired)?

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

It can be done with proper planning. Its not like one head where it doesn't matter polarity of the added remote switch. Everything has to be sorted and connected correctly or neither light will work at all.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Just received the yinding I ordered from gearbest. It arrived D.O.A. The button on the back turns green when a battery is connected but push the button and nothing happens. I took the front cover off and the first thing I noticed is the black o-ring is broken and seems to be a piece that is completely missing. Checked the voltage at the driver board for the led and again at the emitter board terminal and it is showing voltage when I press the button. So, looks like the emitter board or LED is not making connection somehow. Either way I'm totally annoyed at receiving a light that was poorly assembled(broken o-ring) and doesn't even work.
Gearbest better make this right


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## rsilvers (Aug 23, 2015)

I bet they will. And probably won't want the old one back so you can later use it to mod.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

pwu_1 said:


> .......Either way I'm totally annoyed at receiving a light that was poorly assembled(broken o-ring) and doesn't even work.


When you buy a cheapo Chinese light, you really should be happy if it works when you get it, not upset that it is poorly assembled and doesn't work. If you want quality workmanship and reliability, you should consider buying something other than a low cost/quality product.

These cheap lights can be a good starting point for making a reliable light, but everyone should plan on disassembling it when first received and doing a thorough inspection and repair of any shoddy work or components.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Vancbiker said:


> When you buy a cheapo Chinese light, you really should be happy if it works when you get it, not upset that it is poorly assembled and doesn't work. If you want quality workmanship and reliability, you should consider buying something other than a low cost/quality product.
> 
> These cheap lights can be a good starting point for making a reliable light, but everyone should plan on disassembling it when first received and doing a thorough inspection and repair of any shoddy work or components.


That's a huge problem with society these days. Expect alot for very little. Ya its frustrating getting a bad one but its nothing $2 and 5 mins with a soldering iron can't fix. Risks of buying china direct.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Vancbiker said:


> When you buy a cheapo Chinese light, you really should be happy if it works when you get it, not upset that it is poorly assembled and doesn't work. If you want quality workmanship and reliability, you should consider buying something other than a low cost/quality product.
> 
> These cheap lights can be a good starting point for making a reliable light, but everyone should plan on disassembling it when first received and doing a thorough inspection and repair of any shoddy work or components.


I guess I was more annoyed because of the anticipation of the light only to find that it doesn't work. I also don't agree that everyone should plan on disassembling the light to fix any assembly issues. The product should at least work when received. Otherwise what's the point of QC? 
Anyway, I guess no point arguing about it. I submitted a ticket . Just waiting to see if gear best is going to make it right.

Btw vancbiker, do you have mounts for the yinding? The finned ones I bought from you previously has the screw hole in the wrong place. Once I get this issue figured out I'll be contacting you about a mount for this light.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

pwu_1 said:


> ...Btw vancbiker, do you have mounts for the yinding? The finned ones I bought from you previously has the screw hole in the wrong place. Once I get this issue figured out I'll be contacting you about a mount for this light.


Yes, I have adapters for Yinding. Tell me more about the ones that don't work! Did you order Yinding adapters and they don't work? Send me a PM or e-mail so we can get this worked out.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

No arguing, was just reading some other stuff (other forums and other subs here) at the same time, of people throwing huge fits over buying cheap stuff and it not being as good as higher priced, quality equivalents. Was getting annoyed having those threads becoming like threads here (which threads here its to be expected and discussed) getting far off topic. Something Cat has been getting irritated with too, I can tell lol. Couldn't find half the info I was looking for through it all. 



Ya QC in alot of those places sucks big time. But any brand ends up with bad ones occasionally.



Problem with buying china direct is trying to get the problems fixed, we all (me included) feel like its all falling on deaf ears. On top of the wait time and language barrier. Being a reviewer even Im not immune to the issues, I have a direct GB contact and that's it, anywhere else I deal with the same crap. But I've come to expect it. Im hoping GB gets all their issues fixed soon. Its not falling on deaf ears totally there. Just need enough complaints to get the "bosses" to listen and fix things. Nefertari is doing what she can to help.


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## SSBonty (Jan 30, 2004)

Hi - anyone know if there is any difference between the different Yinding head units available on GearBest, I'm a bit wary of ending up with a fake! e.g. are

Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( Neutral White )-31.98 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
(black, neutral white LED, $31.98)

and

Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( Neutral White )-25.88 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

(blue, neutral white LED, $25.88)

Identical apart from unit colour and price?

Oh, and any offer codes would be gratefully received!

Thanks!


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## SSBonty (Jan 30, 2004)

And a slightly but not totally OT question - I have a 14.8/16.8v 5200mah battery from an older 12v lightset in good condition - can the Yinding ?buck? driver handle this much voltage difference and convert it to runtime, or will it fry the unit?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Gearbest sells original yinding only (there is NO CLONES using yinding name, some places cary older versions). Gearbest offers all options of the light. Cw or NW tint and colored anodized.

And no NONE OF THESE LIGHTS allow use of a pack that has higher voltage than the light is listed for.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Sounds like the 10* works well with the xpl leds, I thought I read that the 10* wasnt as good as the 15* on the stock xml. Did I get that right?

I wont be doing the xpl upgrade for a bit but wanted a better spot for the helmet.
Im on leddna now and Read earlier in this threaed that the 15/25/40 (sold with out the white spacer) were the best type (15* in my case)

Thanks


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

The xp-l and xm-l2 are the same die, so how the optics perform wont change, its XP-L HI (high intensity) that narrows the beam and increases the throw more.

If you have a yinding with XML emitters, you must have purchased an old version as the ones we know are all xm-l2 (same thing, just more efficient/better output per watt)

Actually im the only one that complained about the 10deg optics, first set I ordered were crap (poor quality, QC was apparently lacking at the time) but I have 4 sets of them now, everyone works well and very good for tighter spot for the helmet. Make sure to get the ones with the white holders and take out of the holders. Be careful not to scratch the optic. Bending the tabs that lock the optic in, the optic will fall right out.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Yes I meant the l2, sorry. Thanks again for the advise, I will get the 10*. Are stock optics good for bar or is there a better optic while I am ordering the 10*


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Are you using one for helmet one for bars I assume. The stock optics work, but the 25deg version is more even and larger spot that I like better for bars.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

perfect. thanks


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I was hoping to purchase the yinding neutral light but it's sold out of the ones with the batteries. However you can purchase the light alone without a battery. 

Do you happen to know which battery pack is worth purchasing to power the yinding ? 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

They only carry one battery pack worth it otherwise need to buy a brand name pack. The pack they carry the the 4x ncr18650b Panasonic 6800mah pack.


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## SSBonty (Jan 30, 2004)

Thanks for the earlier answers!

Another couple of quick questions - do the decent quality extension cables from DX:

Cheap 5.4mm Male to Female Extension Cable for SKU 29489/30864 (100cm)

fit nicely with the yinding headunit cabe?

And for the charger with the full kit, is the mains plug removable, and why type of connector does it use? Earlier in the thread people said they were getting Euro plugs by mistake and GB were replacing these, I actually need a Euro one so if anyone has one spare that would be great! Or is May still the GearBest contact if I wanted to email her to see about getting hold of the Euro plug?

Finally - are the handlebar mounts available anywhere as spares, I'd like a couple spare and a few for other projects if they are cheap!

Thanks again...


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

SSBonty said:


> Thanks for the earlier answers!
> 
> Another couple of quick questions - do the decent quality extension cables from DX:
> 
> ...


Yes, the headunit has the proper "MagicShine style" end with the "bump" to click together nicely.



SSBonty said:


> . . . are the handlebar mounts available anywhere as spares, I'd like a couple spare and a few for other projects if they are cheap!
> 
> Thanks again...


Orders these nice aluminum ones from DX.

-Garry


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## rpitz (Feb 13, 2015)

garrybunk said:


> Orders these nice aluminum ones from DX.
> 
> -Garry


Or consider changing to GoPro mounts. There are a lot of them available for all mounting situations that may come to one's mind...


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I received a new Yinding lightheaded from Gearbest. A buddy borrowed my original (got a few years ago) and damaged it so he made good by getting me a new one. Looks exactly like my original and seems to have the same tint (neutral) LED. These are great budget lights when combined with a good battery.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## mastakilla (Sep 3, 2005)

*nice little light*

I ordered a yinding and a new gemini duo with remote. The yinding is smaller and lighter than the gemini but also not nearly as bright.

I also ordered the custom heat sink gopro mounts from the guy on mtbr. They mount up pretty easy. Then i saw this, which is basically free which is prolly a better option imo. I have ordered this also to try and will report. Hate the rubber band mounts.

Adapter for Nitefighter BT21 / BT70 / BT40S Headlamp-1.62 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com


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## huckleberry hound (Feb 27, 2015)

Isn't that the one that has been on back order forever and a Sunday?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Yep. Think mines been over 2 months on backorder now. 

-Garry


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## rsilvers (Aug 23, 2015)

If you order that, make sure that is the only thing in your order, or else your entire order will sit for some amount of time.

I printed a mount. Print it sideways for the most strength:

UltraFire XML LED flashlight GoPro adapter by melbergman - Thingiverse


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

I have two of these mounts (guess I was lucky). They would work fine for a Yinding, Duo, BT21 but require modification to properly fit the BT40 and 70. The only negative I see in using them with a Yinding or Duo is that both these lights tend to run hot. This mount may be slightly better than the stock band system at dissipating heat but unless you ride in a cold climate I would consider the Vancbiker heat-sink mount a better option.
Mole


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## mastakilla (Sep 3, 2005)

I ordered my yinding when it was 26 bux a bit ago. It didnt ship after a couple days. I tried to cancel. Then it was immediately shipped. Try this if you are waiting.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

They say 3-5 days so a couple days..... And does NO GOOD if not in stock. The mounts are back ordered, they can't ship something they don't have.


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

mastakilla said:


> Then i saw this, which is basically free which is prolly a better option imo.
> 
> Adapter for Nitefighter BT21 / BT70 / BT40S Headlamp-1.62 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com


I ordered a Yinding head, this adapter and some more Go-Pro adapter staff on 25.11.15 and it all arrived today. Still waiting for the 18650 I ordered at Fastech on the same day ...

I actually had planned to put some nichia 219c in the Yinding and drive them quite with the LD-2 hard. But having them in hand - I doubt this TINY housing can handle 25W


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

So what is the deal on the LED bin/tint on the ones shipping now? Mine looks like a neutral white and when compared to my original (XM-L2 T6 3B) looks the same. The new ones are 3C correct? Are they T6? Just curious.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

These tiny housing arent meant for the stuff some of you want to do. They run the stock emitters as hard as the case will handle.

Ti, new ones are xm-l2 u2 3c


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

tigris99 said:


> These tiny housing arent meant for the stuff some of you want to do.


Did you not put XP-L Hi in that housing yourself? Do you drive them 2.5A each?:nono: Can the light handle that heat?:madmax:

Of course I would add some more heatsinking and drive the LEDs at 6A shared (parallel). I only use my helmet light going downhill, so there is cooling air.

Well I might try it this evening the way it is - just have to put a batterie pack together, that fits first.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Yinding runs them in series, not parallel, did you put in a different driver


Ya I do all my mods myself. Still use stock driver or kd2 driver (being going back and forth, have 2 yindings). And drivers both modified to run at 2.5A output. I can run them at 3A if its cold out and with custom finned gopro adapter from vancbiker.


Nichia 219c arent near as efficient as xp-l, so over driving them is going to produce way more heat that the case can even begin to dissipate. 219c are a very poor emitter choice for what you want to do imho.


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## hankering (Dec 28, 2014)

The first Yinding we got came with the shrinkwrap battery pack. I instead got a Solarstorm box so I could charge cells individually, but still have the shrinkwrap pack to deal with somehow.

Has anyone opened those shrinkwrap battery packs up to check for safety?

This story is cautionary: A Cheap Chinese Bike Light Nearly Burned Down this Rider?s House | Singletracks Mountain Bike News


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Its been posted and well covered in SEVERAL threads, just look through the forum.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Got my order today. shipped on dec 1st by royal mail to Canada. Order made nov 23rd.

Ordered 4 CW kits and 2 NW heads.

They only shipped 2 light heads and 2 kits.

Do they normally separate orders?....buggers.


On a side note, wow light is tiny! Quick beam shots with my original good solar storm(just xml),yinding is a tad brighter even in the NW. The ss2 is in between the CW and NW yinding in tint.

Just waiting on my optics to come in.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> I know in the colored ones it has been corrected, my black one was pre-fix.
> 
> Btw dont do the mod to the driver for helmet, get xp-l hi on noctigons and a couple butterfly spacers, all from mtnelectronics. It'll do far more for throw than boosting (and dealing with extra heat which yinding is really too small for) the driver. Xp-l Hi V2 3c on 16mm noctigons does amazing things to the yinding for helmet use. If you do the resistor mod, only use an r500 (2.5A output total) and get gopro finned adapter from vancbiker.


Just clarifying, You mentioned the R500 for the resistor mod. On page 19 or 20 Neon97 said he used a R270 and measured 2.4a At the led. He mentioned on another page the r500 would bring it up more. Now he did have an older version, maybe the OE resistor is different from our gen?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

His was first generation yindings. Ours is higher output out of the box. His stock resistor was r110, ours is r100. Lower the number, lower the resistance. Which translates to more output to emitters. Thats what added a resistor does, lowers total resistance across that circuit. R500 would not raise the output more than a r270. Think he was saying he could stack another r500 in top to increase further. 



Dont try to get crazy with trying to boost output, itll fry the driver. R500 is about as far as id risk going.

And being I just realized I may be confusing the chip in this driver with another one, definitely dont go higher cause if u did the calculations off the wrong chip, you'll be pushing close 3A instead (which would be I am as well but I have a larger version of the finned gopro mount on mine and use it ing during cool/cold weather.


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## soopahfly (Dec 12, 2015)

I got mine from dealsmachine a couple of months ago. No reason to doubt it's not a real Yinding. Same nice box, neutral white LED's. I swapped out the o-ring mount for a BT Go-Pro mount and used it on my my helmet.

The pack was about half a volt out of balance. I can't remember what the cells were, but they were labled as 1800mah.

I've been real happy with it. Compliments my Lumicycle Enduro on the bars nicely.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

There isn't any "fake yindings". There is copies that are obvious, no screw on front plate, solid case instead. So your pretty safe in that regard.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> His was first generation yindings. Ours is higher output out of the box. His stock resistor was r110, ours is r100. Lower the number, lower the resistance. Which translates to more output to emitters. Thats what added a resistor does, lowers total resistance across that circuit. R500 would not raise the output more than a r270. Think he was saying he could stack another r500 in top to increase further.
> 
> Dont try to get crazy with trying to boost output, itll fry the driver. R500 is about as far as id risk going.
> 
> And being I just realized I may be confusing the chip in this driver with another one, definitely dont go higher cause if u did the calculations off the wrong chip, you'll be pushing close 3A instead (which would be I am as well but I have a larger version of the finned gopro mount on mine and use it ing during cool/cold weather.


Thanks again. Hopefully im not driving you crazy with questions. As for the reistor thing. Im having a hard time understanding how a .1 ohm (r100 right?)
Resistor gains output by adding a .5ohm resistor on top of it.

By adding in parrallel that would drop the overall from .1 to .075? Totally guessing here. I have a bunch of r100 in some old electronics but im not sure I want to stack 5 on top lol. And adding another r100 would allow to much current correct?

Im not doubting what you guys are saying im just trying to understand it better.

Thanks again.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

See this post explaining sense resistor/output current calculations: http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...-bt40s-cat-review-963636-16.html#post12252307

I can't say with certainty that the Yinding circuit is the same but it explains the concept.

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

R100 is WAY too much. Take away the "R" and replace it with "0. ". So an r100 is 0.100ohm resistor. Each one you stack decreases the resistance across them. The chip reads the voltage drop across the resistor and regulates current based on that. Less voltage drop (less resistance) the more current the driver will allow to go to the leds.

The final resistance with r100 and r500 stacked is equal to that of a r083 or 0.083ohm.

Iirc the feedback of the chip is .25v, .25 divided by .083 is ~3 So ~3A.

I had the feedback voltage confused with another chip, so r500 is 3A, max rating of emitters and doable in cool weather with a vancbiker mount.

Do a google search for parallel resistor calc, 1728.org I think is the main site. You can test stacked resistor readings there and use the math I explained above to sort out approx output.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Thats perfect. Thanks for that


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

How long is delivery? I placed order December 13th and then received a "shipped" email on December 25th. I've been checking the tracking but no movement has happened. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

What method did you use? If its free shipping no movement will show for a couple weeks easily as it has to get to whatever European country the package is stamped for first before it shows anything.

Free shipping is anywhere from 3-8weeks lately. Im trying to get them to just use epacket for everything or research what methods fasttech uses because I never have to wait more than 2 weeks from fasttech (I get cells and optics etc, never a light as of yet) or from eBay sellers that use epacket.

Also did you actually select the paid tracking option?


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Yes. I selected an additional 3-5 day shipping that was a few dollars more which said to include tracking. Also I added insurance. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I'd contact them because it should have arrived by now.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

I only recived 2 notifications. Once ot hit GreatBritan and one when it hit customs in Canada. But that was free shipping.

On the shipping topic. I placed an order with leddna in mid dec and havent seen or heard from them at. Ive tried to email twice just to see if the order went through. How long does ot tale for you guys? I am I am in Canada.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

3weeks usually. I did learn a catch with them. Order a few dollars worth of stuff otherwise they never ship the order cause they loose money horribly. I usually order at least $7-8 in optics at once.

The same optics are available from fasttech as well in packs of 5 I think (for the good optics). Good to have spares as optics get scratched up over time.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> 3weeks usually. I did learn a catch with them. Order a few dollars worth of stuff otherwise they never ship the order cause they loose money horribly. I usually order at least $7-8 in optics at once.
> 
> The same optics are available from fasttech as well in packs of 5 I think (for the good optics). Good to have spares as optics get scratched up over time.


I thought about that while placing the order. Sucked cause all the optics i odered were half off. Only managed 4bucks for 8 optics.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well you may be ok, but at one point I ordered $2 worth of optics...ya that never shipped (got the email, that was the one order from them that never arrived though)


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

So I finally got the KD2 driver installed in my Yinding with xpl-hi and 10 degree spot optics... UI is a big improvement (hated off being in sequence with stock driver). Switch operation is much easier too after trimming the nub off the back of the stock button cover.

So my only slight disappointment is current being a bit lower than stock driver... about 1.4-1.5A from battery pack... measuring about 11.5 watts with my power meter. I'm thinking 15 watts or so would be better. What value sense resistor are people running to boost the current?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Stock sense resistors are R100 on Yinding and R110 on KD2. So there is about 10% difference. Tigris has done some modifications if I recall correctly. Anyway as with most drivers using LEDA chip there is equataion as you have seen it many times:

0.25 / Rsense = I (to the leds) 

or which resistor (or their combination) to use

Rsense = 0.25 / I

For example 0.083 Ohm would give you 3A to the leds which is bit to much. I think 0.100 (R100) is about optimum anyway.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

ledoman said:


> Stock sense resistors are R100 on Yinding and R110 on KD2. So there is about 10% difference. Tigris has done some modifications if I recall correctly. Anyway as with most drivers using LEDA chip there is equataion as you have seen it many times:
> 
> 0.25 / Rsense = I (to the leds)
> 
> ...


Thanks! I probably saw that calculation in the past but didn't know there was a common chip used with a standard equation for the sense resistor.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

In those calculation there is assumption there is enough voltage avalaible for leds to really use that current. So sum of leds Vf at particular current has to be avalaible at the point it reaches leds terminal. This means you have to have about full battery pack in the case od 2 led light. Just to clearify a little bit more....


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

ledoman said:


> In those calculation there is assumption there is enough voltage avalaible for leds to really use that current. So sum of leds Vf at particular current has to be avalaible at the point it reaches leds terminal. This means you have to have about full battery pack in the case od 2 led light. Just to clearify a little bit more....


I was testing with a fully charged pack so something seems a little bit off. With the stock R110 (.110 ohm) I would expect to see ~ 2.27A to the LEDs. With 2 xp-l hi in series the vf is around 6v so total power should be ~ 13.63 watts (assuming 100% efficient driver which never happens) so wattage should even be higher, but I was seeing quite a bit less so perhaps this calculation needs some adjustment?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Same set up kwarwick except driver calculated for 3A. testing ran last light on my sphere. Results are not what was expected (what ledoman said), but went far better

Typical vf of xp-l @ 2.27A is about 3.2V, so 6.4V.

Will have a bit of voltage sag between driver and leds.

Kwarwick what are you using to read the current/voltage going in? If its not a DMM set up correctly to measure the draw off the pack (using the display units Ledoman and I do) it needs to be calibrated.

Programmable driver, is high ACTUALLY 100%? Make sure its programmed to 100% on high. 

Also make sure your testing set up has good, low resistance and good contact. Current and voltage reading WILL be off if bad connections and such are causing heavy resistance/voltage sag.
Current draw from the pack WILL NOT match what's coming out of the driver. Draw off pack wont begin to match the drive to the emitters till your down around 7V. My yinding saw the beginnings of the increase in current draw at 7.35V. Draw went up to calculated driver output (lumen output increased slightly as well) slowly as pack voltage got closer to 7V. Yours would probably be closer to 7V before it starts. My vf is closer to 7V.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

tigris99 said:


> Same set up kwarwick except driver calculated for 3A. testing ran last light on my sphere. Results are not what was expected (what ledoman said), but went far better
> 
> Typical vf of xp-l @ 2.27A is about 3.2V, so 6.4V.
> 
> ...


I no longer try to measure current draw from battery packs because, as you've stated, it doesn't provide a reliable way to figure out power consumption.

Instead I've been using one of these watt meters:

Turnigy 130A Watt Meter and Power Analyzer

This useful device goes inline on the power cable and figures out, amount other things, wattage being drawn from the battery pack. Its designed to measure current up to 130A so has seriously hefty cables so that it doesn't add any voltage drop to speak of.

I find the real value is for comparing power consumption when making changes, so when I replaced the stock Yinding driver with the KD driver I saw that the power dropped from 13.x to 11.x (don't remember the exact values right now).

I haven't touched the ramping feature of the KD driver yet, so I'm assuming it comes factory set to 100%, but I will double check that. Ultimately it sounds like the sense resistor being R110 in the KD vs R100 in the Yinding is the most likely explanation for the power consumption drop so I'll probably try swapping in an R100 and see if the power goes back up and go from there.

Thanks for your help guys!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well it is of course the difference in output, but just sounds a bit low for that.

You can swap or add one on top (trick ledoman taught me) to match the output you want.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Found out why it was so low... the sense resistor was R130 on the KD driver.

Carefully replaced it with R100 and now I've got 2A draw from battery for 15 watts power consumption.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Hmm . . . wonder why it was different? Perhaps the assembler ran out of R110's and substituted what was on-hand. Another reason to fully check these Chinese products out to be sure they are as expected. 

-Garry


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

If I was to guess, since this driver is meant for installation in the KD light, maybe they changed it because of the relatively poor heat sinking of those lights. The Yinding of course can handle the heat a lot better so not a problem bumping it up.

I just ran an indoor test on full power and the Yinding with the KD driver dropped down to low once the housing temperature hit ~ 70C.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya that explains everything, and that was as you said, their fix for the crappy kd2.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

kwarwick said:


> Found out why it was so low... the sense resistor was R130 on the KD driver.
> 
> Carefully replaced it with R100 and now I've got 2A draw from battery for 15 watts power consumption.
> 
> View attachment 1046675


Can you post a pic of the fix, (The actual sense resistor on the board) and let us know where you got the resistor?It's a fix I'd like to do as well.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Can you post a pic of the fix, (The actual sense resistor on the board) and let us know where you got the resistor?It's a fix I'd like to do as well.


Borrowing some photos from others here the red arrows show where the sense resistor is on Yinding and KD board.















I took the R100 from the Yinding board and replaced the R130 on the KD. If you don't have a donor board then I think these ones from Fasttech should work: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007371/1615807-1206-0-1r-smd-precision-resistors-100-piece


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

kwarwick said:


> I think these ones from Fasttech should work: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007371/1615807-1206-0-1r-smd-precision-resistors-100-piece


Yes they should work. It is just to be aware the tolerance of those is 5% so you can get as much as 10% difference between the two. Or in another words +/- 5% of the output current.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Thanks, that's great. I think I have a Yinding board lying around. If not, it looks like you get 100 resistors for under $1, which is just crazy. If that's the case, we could all share one order.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

AS requested (hopefully Mole and Garry see this) I put my black yinding back to stock (including optics) and ran through the sphere. Output @ 30 seconds is 1153 Lumens. Mode spacing is about 25/55/100 or lumens: 331/630/1153.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JIkkiLjUk2daQW7-Kenhv8Nff8mIZ5B1HAPzWhPWXv4/edit#gid=0

When I have time I will use this to do optics comparison after I order in a couple more GW spot optics. And Ill do a run off a 4 cell Panasonic pack and graph it.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

tigris99 said:


> (hopefully Mole and Garry see this)


:thumbsup:

Hmm . . . my Yinding isn't stock anymore, so I can't use your numbers to check my sphere's calibration (sphere won't be done for awhile yet). Still glad to see numbers on it though.

Thanks!
-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Thanks tigris! As you know I've been using my black GB Yinding (one with the warmer tint) temporarily as an indoor spot while waiting for permanent fixtures to arrive. Funny but the lumens you measured on H are about the same as a current, typical 75W Equivalent LED globe that would run between 12W-16W, though for some reason a similar equivalent in a spot would only put out around 800 lumens. Sorry can't find it right now, but how much power does the Yinding consume —am I correct in assuming it must be under 10W max? Of course I dare not run the Yinding beyond M indoors, so the 12W/14W 25º spots I ordered should still have a bit of an advantage lumen-wise.

BTW, I was also able to run all my bike lamps directly from the 12V power supplies that came with all my new under counter LED sets (and worked better than when connected to their chargers: no drop down on H.) Pardon my ignorance, but do the lamps' drivers automatically reduce the voltage to the emitters or are they able to handle the 12V? ledoman mentioned he was running his indoors on 12V too but had replaced the drivers for that purpose. Be interesting to rate the Yinding on that kind of power supply if it can actually employ the higher V.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

WHAT So you are saying Your Yinding is running from 12V source??? There must be some significant voltage drop before it hits the driver. Do you have chance to measure voltages at few points toward driver and at driver terminals? I know it's not easy and you need to open Yinding, but for sake of science I would REALLY like to see that. Fist check your 12V source unloaded if it's really 12V. Then what AWG type and how long are the wires? 
I'm wondering what is the capacitor voltage on Yinding driver: https://shrani.si/f/2u/1H/2AtmHBr4/p1040885.jpg Tantalum one with markins is declared to 10V.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> AS requested (hopefully Mole and Garry see this) I put my black yinding back to stock (including optics) and ran through the sphere. Output @ 30 seconds is 1153 Lumens. Mode spacing is about 25/55/100 or lumens: 331/630/1153.
> 
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JIkkiLjUk2daQW7-Kenhv8Nff8mIZ5B1HAPzWhPWXv4/edit#gid=0
> 
> When I have time I will use this to do optics comparison after I order in a couple more GW spot optics. And Ill do a run off a 4 cell Panasonic pack and graph it.


Thanks for the Yinding #'s. Between those and the BT70 results you shared with me gets me closer to an accurate correction factor between your data and mine. Looking forward to your optic testing results!
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Well I don't have a multimeter or anything here right now to measure the voltage, ledoman. Also, Mounted the Yinding with Permanent Double Sided Tape so am not taking it down until my new spots are ready. 

This is the power supply that came with my 12V under-counter LED sets that I tested on both my Yindings and bunch other bike lights: um, the SS X3, KD 880 clone, Mothra (4x XM-L2 U2) and a coupla 808 clones that I'd upgraded to XM-L2 5B1. Of course I tried it out first on the SS X3 I'd received with a cracked lens, just in case. But it worked fine. OTOH, when I connect the lamps to my crappy 1A charger, they don't have full output on H and the power indicators will either go red or flash, depending on the lamp's interface. On my Nitefighter and MagicShine chargers all my bike lights seem okay. But none of them will work with the remote dimmers I have for my 12V under-counter lights, D'oh!









Power cord looks like it says 20AWGX2C, ledoman.


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## bar1 (Feb 23, 2016)

does anyone know what battery is coming with this:
Yinding 900LM CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Cool White Headlight Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery US Plug )-44.35 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

You can pretty much expect it to be a random cheap Chinese unknown but low capacity pack with questionable quality charger. Your best to buy the lighthead only and buy one of the Panasonic cell packs.

-Garry


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## bar1 (Feb 23, 2016)

garrybunk said:


> You can pretty much expect it to be a random cheap Chinese unknown but low capacity pack with questionable quality charger. Your best to buy the lighthead only and buy one of the Panasonic cell packs.
> 
> -Garry


thats what i thought, l like the headband and the o-rings too.
is it not worth it for an extra $15?
(i can apply a $4 discount)


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## bar1 (Feb 23, 2016)

garrybunk said:


> You can pretty much expect it to be a random cheap Chinese unknown but low capacity pack with questionable quality charger. Your best to buy the lighthead only and buy one of the Panasonic cell packs.
> 
> -Garry


It comes with a headband and o-rings and i can get it for $40.
is it not worth it?


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## bar1 (Feb 23, 2016)

is it not worth buying anyways?
with the added o-rings and headband


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

They come with extra o-rings either way and the headband is like $2 on Amazon. Save your money and do it that way.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## bar1 (Feb 23, 2016)

ok, how is this battery?
8.4V 10200mAh 6 x NCR18650B Rechargeable 18650 Li-ion Battery Pack-31.61 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

i prefer to stick to gearbest if possible.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I'm more confident on Kaidomain, but Tigris might tell you what you can expect at Gearbest.


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

I have to add that I ordered 12 panasonic batteries from GB...took 40 days to arrive. They seem to be ok, but can't drive a light I have that pulls high amps.They work fine in most lights though. I have Keeppowers and a purple Efest that drive the big light fine...


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Cdale, you have to be more specific on batteries. All brands you've listed have different kind of batteries for different purposes. You can't just generalize it. Also you need to tell what current your lights needs.


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## bar1 (Feb 23, 2016)

will it even work with the yinding?
8.4V 10200mAh 6 x NCR18650B Rechargeable 18650 Li-ion Battery Pack-31.61 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yes of course, everything (volatege, connectors) is compatible. Another budget friendly option, but high quality is here:
http://www.kaidomain.com/Search/SearchResult.NCR/348
All but 1S1P are compatible with Yinding.


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## bar1 (Feb 23, 2016)

ok thanks!
by the way, can i use those batteries to charge a cellphone?
i think i saw a link somewhere for an adapter but can't find it now.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

With some proper adapter (search Magicshine) those packs can be power source for most USB devices. It depends on adapter support of USB charging protocols. Certainly this is not the case without adapter.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Hey Guys,

Gearbest asked about running a Yinding NW Super Sale. Is there still interested parties for this light?

For those not wanting to read back, in summary, this is a good quality light. One of the best Chinese lights on the market.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Light head only, kits, or both options? I've given up on the cheapo batteries at this point, but both my brother and my Yinding lights are still going strong with upgraded Xeccon 4 cell batteries! I'd be interested in another two FOR SURE, if they are the same build quality as the ones I received last time. Depending on price, I may just order several and sell them here locally if I can get light head only. Let's hear the details!!


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Never pulled the trigger on a Yinding. Price 4 lighthead?


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> Light head only, kits, or both options? I've given up on the cheapo batteries at this point, but both my brother and my Yinding lights are still going strong with upgraded Xeccon 4 cell batteries! I'd be interested in another two FOR SURE, if they are the same build quality as the ones I received last time. Depending on price, I may just order several and sell them here locally if I can get light head only. Let's hear the details!!


I'm with him...
I have the 4 cell plastic housing thing.
I just want the light/mount
CDT


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## sluglike (Jun 8, 2015)

GJHS said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Gearbest asked about running a Yinding NW Super Sale. Is there still interested parties for this light?


I'd be up for a lighthead. Possibly two depending on the price.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok Guys,

Gearbest is opening up a week long sale. Using coupon code YDYY for Black and YDYYB for Blue and Red, the Yinding NW light heads will be $24.89

Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( Neutral White )-31.98 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( Neutral White )-33.14 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

In stock as of writing, there are 30 black NWs in their warehouse.

The supplier has in stock:

12pcs NW in Black 
38pcs NW in Blue
8pcs NW in Red

That can be delivered to GB in a week.

If more are ordered, those will take 3 weeks to build and be delivered.

Again, the coupon ends on May 24th


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## sluglike (Jun 8, 2015)

GJHS said:


> Gearbest is opening up a week long sale. Using coupon code YDYY the Yinding NW light heads will be $24.89


Thanks for posting this! I just ordered up a spare.


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

Does that code do anything to a complete light kit? (For a co-worker)
Anything for a CW light head.... Or just NW light heads only?
Thanks!


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

CdaleTony said:


> Does that code do anything to a complete light kit? (For a co-worker)
> Anything for a CW light head.... Or just NW light heads only?
> Thanks!


The batteries on those kits aren't worth it, better to pick up a Hunk Lee pack or a battery box. They don't have CWs in stock so the sale is on the NWs.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

There is the Panasonic battery packs now, don't need to deal with hunk Lee not having our connectors anymore. 

There's a thread down a ways on them but ledoman and I have confirmed them internally and tested to be ncr18650b cells used in them. Decent quality pack compared to most cheap Chinese stuff.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## SSBonty (Jan 30, 2004)

Tigris, do you have a link to the GB Panasonic battery, tried searching on their site for all sorts of word combinations and can't find it! Thanks!


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Not GB, but I've tested those http://www.kaidomain.com/Search/SearchResult.KBP . You can find links to reviews of some here: http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/battery-thread-2016-beyond-997165.html post #2


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Seems Gearbest is out of stock on this pack. Just checked website.


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## 156flash (Aug 16, 2013)

*Solastorm replacement*

Hi Guys
My twin solastorm is starting to let me down, I am wondering if the Yinding will perform better & last longer than the 1 year I got out of the solastorm. I have just purchased 2 Lezyne superdrive XL 700 Lm lights for the outside of my bars that I rotate outwards when riding singletrack, The 700's are a bit brighter than the solastorm but the beam is more consentrated.
Your thoughts will be apreceated:
1) Whats the chance the Yinding will outperform my solastorm in brightness?
2) Will the Yinding beam be simillar to the solastorm, a center ring with a wide outer throw?
3) Will I be able to use the battery from my solastorm to run the Yinding, I am unaware of how many conections there are?
My current light


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yinding is better in any way than SS X2. I doubt you even have geniue Cree leds in your light. 

So YES for 1. and 2. but be aware NW tint might look less bright as you are used on and the beam is more evenly spreaded. 

3. Since we don't know what is quality of your battery pack I would only say the pack can be usable but I doubt it will last long. The connectors can fit together, just not the best. For your safety and pleasure I would suggest to think about new battery pack, too. See links few posts above.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

156flash, the Yinding is as very good deal at the sale price.

So you got a year out of a Solarstorm? That's still pretty good value in my opinion, since they are so cheap to begin with. How much did you pay for yours and where did you order them?

Also keep your eye on this thread. It might be the new IT light
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/ituo-wiz-xp2-1012545.html


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## 156flash (Aug 16, 2013)

varider said:


> 156flash, the Yinding is as very good deal at the sale price.
> 
> So you got a year out of a Solarstorm? That's still pretty good value in my opinion, since they are so cheap to begin with. How much did you pay for yours and where did you order them?
> 
> ...


Which thread is this your link doesn't seam to open


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

156flash said:


> Which thread is this your link doesn't seam to open


Missed the "l" in html:
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/ituo-wiz-xp2-1012545.html


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

GJHS, thx for the code. Had to get a red Yinding to match my new red deity handlebars.
Damn light fetish......!!!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Omg we corrupted another one lol.

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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

GJHS said:


> Ok Guys,
> 
> Gearbest is opening up a week long sale. Using coupon code YDYY for Black and YDYYB for Blue and Red, the Yinding NW light heads will be $24.89
> 
> ...


I'm confused by the offerings on the GB page. It looks like the "deal" is only for the NW lights. I have cool white currently, and my headlight is cool white. All I can find in cool white is the set that includes the battery, according to the text. Is there even an offering for the cool white in light head only?


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Ok. canx order for red Yinding. Gotta free up cashe for other lights! And I hate my red handlebars!


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Guy from BLF informed me there is Yinding on sale at GB. NW version for $25.88, head only.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Wonder if Gearbest is offing the Yinding to make room for the new, improved Yinding? Pure speculation on my part....


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Dirt Road said:


> Wonder if Gearbest is offing the Yinding to make room for the new, improved Yinding? Pure speculation on my part....


That would be nice. In light of the fact that they did such a good job of cloning the Gemini Duo and that they seem to be the only "Cheap Chinese" manufacturer that has been able to figure out how to maintain component quality through several production runs I have a request. Make you new improved model a BT21 clone. I love that F...in light and so do a lot of other people who were willing to buy several more lights if Nitefighter had chosen to produce another production run. Performance of the BT21 + the consistent reliability of your current light and you should be able to sell as many of these as you can produce (IMO)!
Mole


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Dirt Road said:


> Wonder if Gearbest is offing the Yinding to make room for the new, improved Yinding? Pure speculation on my part....


Trust me, NO

It was my suggestion since the Yinding is such a nice light. They wanted to offer a few deals to the forum. They gave the Yinding coupon and a sweet coupon for the Garmin Edge 520 GPS bike computer which I am about to post.

If anyone missed it, write here and I will see what i can do.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

MRMOLE said:


> That would be nice. In light of the fact that they did such a good job of cloning the Gemini Duo and that they seem to be the only "Cheap Chinese" manufacturer that has been able to figure out how to maintain component quality through several production runs I have a request. Make you new improved model a BT21 clone. I love that F...in light and so do a lot of other people who were willing to buy several more lights if Nitefighter had chosen to produce another production run. Performance of the BT21 + the consistent reliability of your current light and you should be able to sell as many of these as you can produce (IMO)!
> Mole


Nitefighter (Revtech) is willing to do another run of the BT21S. Unfortunately they have proven that their quality can't be guaranteed which is a situation that a good seller, who cares wants to avoid. That's why the light goes unbuilt for now and why we are building another light.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

GJHS said:


> Nitefighter (Revtech) is willing to do another run of the BT21S. Unfortunately they have proven that their quality can't be guaranteed which is a situation that a good seller, who cares wants to avoid. That's why the light goes unbuilt for now and why we are building another light.


I do understand the quality control problems that plagued the BT21 after it's first production run and why Gearbest would rather not sell this light without quality guarantees from the Manufacturer. My comments/requests were not aimed at Gearbest but instead at Yinding, sorry if I wasn't clear on this. Put in a different way, If I were Yinding knowing that I was very good at cloning, manufacturing, and quality control why would I not want to copy and produce the BT21 design. Layout is similar to the current light they produce so manufacturing costs should be similar yet every aspect of performance is far superior (thermal properties, light output and beam pattern, UI). A triple should perform better but would be more expensive to produce. So what's going to sell more lights, a good high output dual emitter that with Yinding's manufacturing skills will be reliable for $30 or a triple for $50. All us light nerds would go for the triple but low price seem to be the driving force for most who buy cheap Chinese so I think overall a BT21 clone would be a better seller.
Mole


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

My bt21 is now working great (I again have turbo!) Best in class light plagued by not only quality problems, but by folks who want $200 quality in a $30 light. Even in high mode bt21 is still a great light.


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## kiefer (Jun 17, 2016)

GJHS said:


> Trust me, NO
> 
> It was my suggestion since the Yinding is such a nice light. They wanted to offer a few deals to the forum. They gave the Yinding coupon and a sweet coupon for the Garmin Edge 520 GPS bike computer which I am about to post.
> 
> If anyone missed it, write here and I will see what i can do.


I would be interested. I'm new to this community so missed it before. Being in Texas its almost impossible to ride during the day. Thanks.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Warning. The yinding is not good for use in the south west, doesn't take to the heat well, won't be able to run it on high much at all which limits you to the 500 lumen output range. Good light if its not hot out. But definitely not a hot summer night kind of light if you want full 1000 lumens

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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Agree with Tigris. Running it on medium intensity does help some, but not enough to hassle with it on my bars just based on the extra weight alone. Just about anything (even a single emitter with a diffusing lens) and good thermal properties is better as a bar light than a Yinding on medium. :-(


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## kiefer (Jun 17, 2016)

Even with an added heatsink like this Additional adapters

It seems a lot of people recommend paring it with the nightfighter BT40s on the bars for a cost effective solution. I would assume most of these Chinese lights probably run fairly hot. Sorry still new and reading a lot of threads trying to get up to speed. Thanks for the input.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Those help a lot but hopefully Mr mole chimes in with better details, he lives down that direction .

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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

tigris99 said:


> There is the Panasonic battery packs now, don't need to deal with hunk Lee not having our connectors anymore.


Last two cell pack I bought from Hunk Lee lasts about 20min with my X2 Gloworm.

I knew it was too good to be true


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

kiefer said:


> Even with an added heatsink like this Additional adapters
> 
> It seems a lot of people recommend paring it with the nightfighter BT40s on the bars for a cost effective solution. I would assume most of these Chinese lights probably run fairly hot. Sorry still new and reading a lot of threads trying to get up to speed. Thanks for the input.


Hi Keifer,
I live in Phoenix and have the Yinding w/vancbiker finned mount set-up your asking about. Unfortunately this is a hot running light and while the mount helped a lot it's still not enough to handle summer mountain rides in the desert without some overheating problems. I'm not familiar enough with where you live in Texas and the temps. you will be riding in or your intended usage so I'm just going to give you some observations on how this light handles different temps. and let you decide if it will work doe you. Ride temps below 80° should be fairly trouble free. You might be able to activate the thermal protection mode if you have long periods of very slow riding with little air flow to the light. Anything over that the Vancbiker mount is a very good addition. With the mount you should be good up to about 90°. If you pay attention to air flow to the light your still good to the mid 90's. Anything over that you won't be able to run the light on high for very long without it stepping down to 50% power. Hope this helps.
Mole


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## kiefer (Jun 17, 2016)

Very helpful, Thank you! I'm located in Houston so we can see temps up to 100, but normally will have highs in the mid-90s during the summer and may dip into the 70s-80s at night. I may try the light given the price point and worse case it can become a backup if needed.


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## 156flash (Aug 16, 2013)

Hi
I recieved my Yinding in the post and took it for a spin last night. It does show up my old SS2 copy. I like the spread of light the yinding gives but I would like a little bit more light in the centre.
Can any of you gurus give me any ideas on modifications I can make to give me a little more light out of it.
I do like the idea of playing with upgrades and learning.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Three things can be done:
1. Change optics with more narrower one - 10 deg LED-DNA is one of them. This is the easiest way to get more light in center
2. Change sense resistance with replace or add on top of existing sense resistor, but be aware there is more light but also heat to deal with afterwards.
3. Change leds to something narrower like XP-L HI

All things are described somewhere in this thread.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Try the 10 degree LED-DNA optics first, then if that's not enough consider swapping the emitters to XP-L HI (neutral white of course) and use those along with the LED-DNA optics. I know I posted pics of the XP-L HI w/10 degree optics "mod" not too far back this thread (also in a thread in the DIY Lighting forum). Post up if you need more guidance.

-Garry


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## shaggy.gpd (Jan 21, 2009)

Are these yinding lights the original ones? or are they clones?

Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( Neutral White )-25.96 Online Shopping| GearBest.com

Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( Neutral White )-25.96 Online Shopping| GearBest.com

Yinding 900LM CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Cool White Headlight Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery US Plug )-40.40 Online Shopping| GearBest.com


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Those are all originals. (Assuming GearBest or their supplier hasn't switched them, unlikely though, no reports of that . . . yet.)

-Garry


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## shaggy.gpd (Jan 21, 2009)

Thanks Garry!


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> Try the 10 degree LED-DNA optics first, then if that's not enough consider swapping the emitters to XP-L HI (neutral white of course) and use those along with the LED-DNA optics. I know I posted pics of the XP-L HI w/10 degree optics "mod" not too far back this thread (also in a thread in the DIY Lighting forum). Post up if you need more guidance.
> 
> -Garry


I'm interested in trying this 10 degree optic but I'm having a difficult time searching the leddna website for it. There are several options and all seem to have specific specifications but I still see "10 deg" on a lot of them. Was curious if you could point me in the right direction please?

Also, is it a simple swap as far as unscrewing and switching out or is there soldering to be done?

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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Also, which battery pack/charger do you guys recommend? I've been using my 4 year old pick from the magicshine Amazon clone.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

It's a simple swap. Just unscrew the case, drop out the old optics, remove white holders from the new ones, drop new ones in, screw body back together. (Some of us experimented with keeping the white holders on in the BT21, but I'm not sure if the white holders will stay on inside a Yinding head - doubt it).

Optics are here: 10 Degree 21mm Reflector Collimator LED Lens For Cree XML XM-L LED - LEDDNA

Also at FastTech here: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0...-12-6mm-pmma-optical-lens-for-cree-xm-l-t5-t6

I'd buy from LEDDNA.

Battery packs: see the Panasonic cell packs from Kaidomain: http://www.kaidomain.com/Search/SearchResult.NCR/348 (see thread here on them). Available from GearBest too, but there's been at least one report of one from GearBest having thinner gauge leads.

Batteries will be tough to get from overseas. Lots of shipping issues trying to ship Lithium batteries.

Chargers are tough. See the threads on chargers. Ledoman was working on getting a decent one, but so far the one's sent out and reviewed were not 100% good. I'll defer on chargers. (Note: Ledoman gave me a link to a half decent cheap Ebay one, but I don't have a link handy. It still needed unplugged shortly after turning green and you'd need to verify you'd get the exact model.)

-Garry


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Man thank you. I'm sorry if my questions were redundant I've been reading. It haven't found what I'm looking for. 

As far as those batter packs go from Kd, I'm assuming any one? 


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Oh, I'm assuming you need 2 optics correct? 


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Sorry it took so long to respond. Yes, you need two optics. Since they are so cheap and shipping is so long I recommend grabbing a bunch of extras and some of the other "angles". Stick with the "XM-L" ones with white holders or the elliptical ones. 

Any battery pack listed there will work except the one single cell listed as "3.6v". The rest are all 2S 8.4v packs. If using on a helmet I'd go with the 2 cell pack. Of the two 2 cell packs listed the difference is just the power lead length, so you decide what you need. For bar use a 4 cell (2S2P) will likely be sufficient. It's mostly just a matter of runtime. IIRC the Yinding pulls 2.4A stock on high, so the mAh capacity of the pack divided by 2.4A gives you an APPROXIMATE runtime in hours if you left it on high constantly (worst case scenrio). The actual rated mAh of these packs is close to the listed specs. I get 2+ hours out of a BT21 (2.8A on high) using Med/High mixture of modes on a very similar 2 cell setup. 

-Garry


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

This is all incredible help. Thank you for your responses. I already ordered 2 optics before your advice but i like the yingding how it is now. I compared it to my old cool magicshine knockoff and it's incredible the difference. I wouldn't mind more of a spot in the yingding as most of our trials are tight and twisty. 

I know I'm going to catch flack but I only run a light on my helmet. I always take an extra and an extra battery. 2 lights tend to confuse me. I have 2 packs from older knockoff lights. Each vastly different. 1 is very shotty construction with thin gauge wire, and the other is very nice, with a rubber shell and a nylon pouch with much thicker gauge wire that are threaded with a small o ring for waterproofing. Not sure how I lucked out on that but I'm cool with it. I've been alternating and haven't drained one on a ride yet so I may wait to order a new battery. 

The magicshine knockoff isn't the greatest. It has a very bright center spot with a very dim spill and a ring on the far outside of the lighted output. 

Is there any mods or part replacements to fix this? I have the wide angle lens also but it is awful with how this light shines. 


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Hmm . . . not sure what to tell you on the MS clone. Perhaps post up a separate thread on that and see how people respond. My first thought was the wide angle lens until you mentioned you tried it already. Perhaps some DC Fix diffusion film or glass frosting spray on the lens (which will likely reduce output too though). 

-Garry

P.S. I see you're in GA. I spent two years in NE GA. I miss it down there!


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

kikoraa, OP (Orange Peel) reflector in the MS clone is the solution for spreading beam a little. I'm assuming you have SMO (smooth) reflector.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I feel it's the OP but I will check tonight. We can revert the topic back to the yingding. Apologies for hijacking and thank you all for your awesome assistance! 


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Actually. Will a smooth reflector still have the bumpy "look" to an OP? Just feel smooth? 


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

No, SMO reflector is clear, more like a mirror. There can be different degrees of OP surface, though. SMO reflector has well defined hot spot while OP has more dispersed light.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

These are the 2 reflectors I have. They're kind of a dull bumpiness but it doesn't seem like they're doing what an OP reflector is supposed to be doing.

I took a piece of aluminum foil and wrapped on of the reflectors and it gave me exactly what I was looking for. I was curious if there was a reflector that would do this same effect? Essentially giving me a smooth beam versus a hot spot with a very dim spill? Is that what the action LED reflector does?

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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

The O.P. (orange peel) reflector ought to be smoothing out the beam a little. In reality I'd say don't expect much. There are also 3 types of O.P. reflectors - L.O.P. (Light), M.O.P. (Medium), & H.O.P. (Heavy). Kinda looks like you have a LOP & a MOP, though it could just be the angle of the camera.

The Action LED wide angle lens? That outta spread the beam out significantly. I've posted beamshots before . . . oh here they are in my "Diffusion Techniques Testing" thread over at BLF: Diffusion Techniques Testing - Various Methods | BudgetLightForum.com . That thread may help you see effects of what you could try. If I had the time I'd redo those tests though as now I have better equipment to test light output. Take those output results with a large grain of salt!

And this thread might be of use evaluating optics: Optics (TIRs) Comparison Beamshots | BudgetLightForum.com .

-Garry


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Weird. 

I have a wide angle and it turns the hotspot into a huge rectangle with the super dull spill. I think it's time to retire this as a backup and order a new yinding from GB or ssx2 from KD! 



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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Order up a BT40S for a bar light and use the Yinding on the helmet! Just be sure to get the Vanc aluminum GoPro mount adapter to help with heat.

BT40S on Amazon (light head only apparently sold out!): Optics (TIRs) Comparison Beamshots | BudgetLightForum.com . The kit does come with a very good battery and decent charger.

GearBest has the light head only: Nitefighter BT40S Cree XP - G2 1600lm Neutral White LED Bicycle Light Bike Headlamp-28.42 Online Shopping| GearBest.com

-Garry


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Hmm. Ok may look into that. My yinding is neutral white so I'm sure I'll be needing to get the same for bar. Why do you say the bt40? 


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

The BT40S is neutral white, so it will match up. The BT40S is probably the best budget lamp available right now for the bars. Some say it lacks output, but it's really just that it's very floody. See the review thread, plenty of pics there. 

Stick around, we'll help you spend more money  .

-Garry


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Do you know of anyone who has used 2 yingding? Bar/helmet the stock optic on bar and the 10degree on helmet? 


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I don't remember any, but perhaps someone else will chime in. I might have stock vs. modded beamshot. See My Bike Lights link in my sig. (I can't remember for sure if I got stock shots or not. Then again modded is 10° optics on different emitters and therefore might skew the comparison.)

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

kikoraa said:


> Do you know of anyone who has used 2 yingding? Bar/helmet the stock optic on bar and the 10degree on helmet?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've ridden with a Yinding and an older Gemini Duo (light which the Yinding was cloned from - only slightly more powerful). That combo worked fine but would still prefer a BT40s as a bar light. More powerful than a Yinding but light is spread out in a nice even flood pattern. Throw is lacking being a flood pattern but the narrower focused beam on the 10 equipped Yinding provides the distance lighting and they end up working well together. Mode switching button much nicer on the BT40s as well. Yinding button is a PITA to use, BT40s button is larger, more accurate, and has the ability to scroll up and down in the power levels which is nice. Runs cooler too.
Mole


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Ok cool. I might look into that. 99% off night riding will be on very twisty techy narrow singletrack. Hence why I typically only run a helmet. I figured the yingding would be sufficient on the bars if I chose to run a 2nd light since I'm not needing a terrible amount of spill. 

Regarding the bt40s, can I run that off a standard 4x magicshine battery pack? Or will that need a stronger pack since it's running 4 emitters? 


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

It will run on a standard pack. I think it only draws 1.75A off a pack which isn't that much. The 4 emitters are driven pretty mildly (except in my modded one  ).

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

kikoraa said:


> Ok cool. I might look into that. 99% off night riding will be on very twisty techy narrow singletrack. Hence why I typically only run a helmet. I figured the yingding would be sufficient on the bars if I chose to run a 2nd light since I'm not needing a terrible amount of spill.
> 
> Regarding the bt40s, can I run that off a standard 4x magicshine battery pack? Or will that need a stronger pack since it's running 4 emitters?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sounds like your trails were made for the BT40s. Battery connectors will work with MS style connectors. Current draw on the BT40s and the Yinding are about the same (BT40s is more efficient though) and should work fine with your MS battery. Stock battery for the BT40s was 5200mAh and would run it on high for approx. 3 hrs. Your batteries capacity should be printed on it somewhere. If your worried about your battery the full kit on the BT40s is a very good deal.
Mole


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Edit* saw it. Sorry. 

Thanks again!


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## OverTheHill (Dec 3, 2004)

My YinDing NW light head was just delivered two weeks to the day after I ordered it. Not bad China to UK really. I ordered it out of curiosity as a backup and it's a dinky little thing. No wonder it gets hot so quickly. 

I did read this thread some while back but can't remember - anyone know what angle the standard optics are? I have some LEDDNA 10, 15 and 25 degree optics to replace them if necessary. Are they a straight drop-in?

I ordered neutral white but it's not as warm as my Ituo Wiz20 and Nightfighter BT21 which are both 3C I think. It is a bit warmer than my DIY twin XP-G which is definitely cool white.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

From what this thread told me before, it's a simple unscrew the cover and drop in 

I ordered 10 deg on recommendation from posters here because I wanted to mess around with more of a spot. 


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

IIRC, stock optics should be close to 25 degree. The LEDDNA 10 degree should definitely tighten up the beam. XP-L HI emitters really help too and are a simple swap if you can solder. Then you can change tint to what you want (if that tint is available).

-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Do you mean don't have to reflow the Yinding to switch to the XP-L HI emitters, Garry? Can you just solder in two separate stars in place of the dual board or what? Sorry but I must have missed all this...


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Hmm. Maybe I should have went with a 15 deg. I should have also ordered several since they were stupid cheap. 


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

andychrist said:


> Do you mean don't have to reflow the Yinding to switch to the XP-L HI emitters, Garry? Can you just solder in two separate stars in place of the dual board or what? Sorry but I must have missed all this...


Yes, buy them on 16mm boards and solder in place (adding a jumper wire to connect the two boards in series). Posted pics somewhere, but should show up in My Bike Lights Thread on BLF.

-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Thanks Garry, do you have any pics of/links to the "butterfly spacers" ?


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I can't remember what people were saying but does anyone recommend a 6battery pack from Kd with this light? I was thinking 4 with a 2a charger but didn't know if the 6 would be worth it for duration. 


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Haven't determined yet how long my Yinding will run on High with the 6-pack but another aspect to consider is that the MagicShine style of connector seems to be the weakest point on such a system, so the fewer times you have to charge your batteries the longer everything will last.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I'm confused. Why does the magicshine connector suck? 


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Um since when is there a problem with the connectors???? They are cheap lights that use cheap wire, that's where the problem lies. The connector itself is no different than the 1.5million other products out there that use the 5.5 DC connection.

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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

I doesn't suck, just that the electrical connecting surfaces are necessarily thin so a bit prone to wear. It makes a water tight seal (you can hear the "pop") which is good while riding. (Unfortunately the genuine MagicShine brand charger makes the same seal even though it is not designed for outdoor use, which is kinda overkill. Other brands of chargers are much easier to use in that regard, so no worries there.)

tigris, maybe it's the wires but I've had hours of problems trying to establish working contacts in the winter months, both with my MagicShine chargers and various lamps. Have to fiddle with the connectors either by rotating or re-connecting before the indicator LEDs come on the right way. Three worn out MS and a couple cheapie chargers, though all my lamps are still pretty much okay as far as I can tell.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

andychrist said:


> Thanks Garry, do you have any pics of/links to the "butterfly spacers" ?


Mountain Electronics here: XP-G - XP-G2 - XP-E2 - Plastic Butterfly Style Emitter Spacer / Insulator . They don't list XP-L, but all that matters is that they are "XP" footprint emitters. Again, buy a bunch as they're cheap.

-Garry


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Anyone know where to get good batteries and a charger in the US at a compatible price to Kd? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

You're not going to get China comparable prices in the US. You can look at Action LED: BATTERIES ? Action-LED-Lights

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya no such thing. Places like KD have a list of things they don't have to worry about. One is no legal repercussions for anything they do. No insurance, no taxes, none of that. Plus they don't have all the fees and BS a US location has to pay.

And packs carried by US companies have to meet stricter standards which means higher costs. They can't just slap stuff together and go like China can get by with.

And no dealing with returns, warranties or any of that. Whatever you buy your stuck with and they get to keep the money no matter what.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

I would like to modulate my Yinding with XP L or Xp L High Leds! Which of mousser would be right with star?


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## mhelander (May 9, 2014)

Here is my quick "contribution" to this thread... just followed with great interest when initiated, then purchased one, and 2nd from later batch.

This light has been really great for the purpose I'm using it: riding in Finnish fall trails before snow in wet, then over the snowy winter.

My setup has Panasonic 3400mAh cells in 2P2S casing from DX, other stock lens is swapped to "Wide Angle Lens for the MJ-880" from Action LED Lights. The purpose was to get both of best - plenty of distance coverage aided with wide nearby beam.

As wet & dark isn't best to shoot anything about lightning pattern, here is little too long video recorded from one of my recent morning commuting:





As Offroad'bent I'm riding fully suspended recumbent with B+ tires, thus odd mount of both Yinding and ViRB camera. Hope this helps somebody else in decision making about good value great performance light!


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Great video Mika, your Yindings sure shine bright against the snow! 

Take it you have one mounted to the frame, the other on your helmet?


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

Garry bunk what did you do with the battery still, or only the thicker cable with the battery soldered? Does this really so much?
Otherwise, I'll test the tip with the twist with the Mcpcp after warming the lamp!
But if I pass a good 40 percent more current you have to see the luminosity already what!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

It already pulls max current through the stock leads so no need to replace it. I don't have a stock battery (they're junk) so can't speak to those. In fact I've never used a Yinding away from the workbench other than taking beamshots. I wanted to try it this winter but life has not allowed for much riding.

-Garry


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

I have some older Yindings with XML U2 Leds and would like something tinker, or perhaps even more light!
I have currently occupied only with XML and / or XML2 Leds!
Now there are a few others; XPL High or XHP50 Leds?

XPL High would give me more range what I've heard.
What about XHP50 Leds?
I would have already found suitable On copper plate!

XPL High.
Noctigon XP16 & CREE XP-L High Intensity V2 3A [SKU L076] - $6.98 : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store

XHP50
Noctigon XM16 V2 MCPCB & CREE XHP50 J2 3B LED [SKU L066] - $11.80 : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store
https://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Pow...-auf-Kupfer-Platine--6V--LT-2537_120_229.html

Which matching lenses can be used with the Yinding?
I still have some of Leddna of 10,15,25,45 and 60 degrees!
Do I need XPL High or XHP50 butterfly wings or ?
I need another driver with XHP50 Leds?
In the Armytek Wizard Pro XHP is already an XHP50 Led installed, since it works already


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## mhelander (May 9, 2014)

andychrist said:


> Great video Mika, your Yindings sure shine bright against the snow!
> 
> Take it you have one mounted to the frame, the other on your helmet?


Thanks, I'm riding only boom mounted Yinding as helmet light would wash my legs & handlebar and thus kill near sight vision.

That's why Y is setup for both wide and distant patterns are needed.

This was recorded with middle power, it's also pretty good enough in wet snowless trails too.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

gecco said:


> I have some older Yindings with XML U2 Leds and would like something tinker, or perhaps even more light!
> I have currently occupied only with XML and / or XML2 Leds!
> Now there are a few others; XPL High or XHP50 Leds?
> 
> ...


Yes, XP-L HI give more throw with less spill (less overall lumens too). XHP-50 are 6v (or 12v) LEDs so runtime would decrease drastically and be harder to keep in regulation (i.e. max output) for long.



gecco said:


> Which matching lenses can be used with the Yinding?
> I still have some of Leddna of 10,15,25,45 and 60 degrees!
> Do I need XPL High or XHP50 butterfly wings or ?
> I need another driver with XHP50 Leds?
> In the Armytek Wizard Pro XHP is already an XHP50 Led installed, since it works already


XP-L's or XP-L HI 's need the XP to XM spacers (see these: XM to XP-G2 Adapter / Spacer ). XM-L optics fit and work with XHP50 LED's (but not XHP70's). No idea on if stock driver will drive XHP50's.

-Garry


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

https://translate.google.de/transla...http://mackoutdoors.ca/led-comparison/&anno=2
On this page they mean that the XPL High versus XML2 does not bring so much!
XHP50 should be noticeable!

With XHP50 I need therefore nothing except a Yinding 2 pieces 16mm XHP Leds
Weiterleitungshinweis
or
https://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Pow...-auf-Kupfer-Platine--6V--LT-2537_120_229.html
and the optics could I also leave or replaced by Leddna 10,15,25,45Grad?

Or are there better XHP Leds with 16mm diameter
with 4500 to 5500 light color?
Do I need when I need them for the Yinding XHP50 Led for 6V or 12V?

If it burns on high with XML2 Leds 1.5 hours how long 
would it light with same battery with XHP50 Leds on High?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

If you use XHP50 in 6V version you will have to wire them in parallel. That splits the drive current in half for each LED. So for a stock Yinding driver you are only giving each XHP50 ~1A. No real benefit over XM-L2 LEDs then.

Switching to XPL-Hi is about getting a better beam if you like lees spread and longer throw. IMO the best beam I have currently ridden with is the XPL-Hi and the LEDDNA 10 degree optic. Excellent throw and more than enough spill.


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

That would be called the XHP50 Led only with lamps with one Led sense makes at 8.4V.Two XHP Leds halved the performance, is the right?

Should one take the lamp with an XHP50 Led with a 8.4V battery the 6V or the 12V version?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

About half performance sounds right. You'd want to use the 6v version. Using the 12v would require a boost driver and be tougher to get high output from. 

Think of 1 XHP50 taking the place of 2 XM-L2's. The XHP led also have odd looking beams, but I'm not sure how they look through optics.

-Garry


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

Too bad, so would a XHP50 Led only make sense with a lamp with one Led or?
And change from XML2 to XPL High you will not again notice so much difference, of the overall brightness, only the XPL High continues to light?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I would say the XHP50 is better suited to a single emitter light. And yes, XP-L HI's are to get a beam with more throw. (I've posted Yinding comparison beamshots showing before & after - see My Bike Lights Thread in my signature.)

The new XP-L2's would be awesome to try out in a Yinding (assuming you're not looking for tight throw). However you'd have trouble with optics fitting over the emitter dome.

-Garry


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

I would like to modify my Yinding.
Which part should I replace at the circuit board or add to become more power to the Leds? Thanks


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

You'd want to change / add to the sense resistors, but many of us feel it's useless to do so because the Yinding is already driven beyond the heat level the body can handle. 

-Garry


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

How much power comes original to the Led and how much is max possible without the Led damages?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I believe the stock driver outputs 2.4A to each LED. I believe it's pretty much at the max level heat wise. If you'd leave it on high without moving you'd likely build up enough heat that the emitters could unsolder themselves from the boards. I have no idea how hard you could drive them with additional heatsinking (i.e. a vancbiker aluminum heatsink GoPro mount), but I doubt it's much more. I don't know anyone who has pushed the Yinding any further than stock.

The other issue is that output doesn't dramatically increase beyond the 2.4A level. You'll increase heat faster than output (for example you might get 10% more lumens but 30% more heat - just an example, no idea of real numbers).

-Garry


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

Do all Yinding boards old and new the same current to the Leds?

How it looks XPL High and other optics, 45 degrees, for example?
Is it generally brighter than with XML2 Leds


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

As far as we know all driver boards have been the same. XP-L HI's will have lower lumens but provide more throw. What do you mean by "brighter"? If brighter means a brighter central hotspot, then yes. If brighter means more overall light output, then no. I have no idea how XP-L HI's would look in other optics.

My beamshot comparisons of stock XM-L2 w/stock optics vs. XP-L HI's w/10º optics are here: My Bike Lights - Info, Teardown pics, Beamshots, Current Measurements, etc. . . | BudgetLightForum.com . The mouseover comparisons seem to show XP-L HI's brighter but with less/dimmer spill.

-Garry


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

I now order 2x XPL High Leds for the Yinding,should i take 4500K-4B or 5000K-3C colortemperature?
Which is the best colortemperature for the best contrast?
I have to order something like that?
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024680....lastic-Insulation-Gaskets-for-Cree-XP-L-5-pcs


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I'd choose the 4B, but it's up to you and your preference. And yes those are the butterfly spacers you'll need. 

-Garry


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

Thank you, garrybunk.
I will order the 4B.
Why i need the Butterflys, the Led is fixed anyway in the middle and the Leddna optics would have to fit synonymous.
Are the Butterflys because the light does not emanate laterally?
Or for what are the Butterflys?

Fron Leddna i order the
10,15,25,45 Degree 21mm Reflector Collimator LED Lens For Cree XML XM-L LED!

Fits then the optics at the Yinding still when I use the Butterflys.Will I get no problems with the height?

I would have ordered my XPL High LEds from Kaidomain?
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S025806.Cree-XP-L-HI-V2-Neutral-White-4500K-LED-Emitter-with-KDLIGHT-XP-16-16mm-x-1_5mm-DTP-Copper-MCPCB
Or would this XPL2 Led brighter, and better, but has 5000K.
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026461....KDLIGHT-3535-16-16mm-x-1_5mm-DTP-Copper-MCPCB

Is there already XPL2 Leds, have already read of it? Where and what would you order if you are looking for the Yinding with about 4500K-5000k?
Are XPL High dedomed or XPL L2 domed better and brighter?

It is a pity that the XHP is only designed for one Led on bike lights! What a pity!In the Yinding she would be a dream!

And besides, I decided that I once a Yinding modden with more current to the Leds. I now have 8 Yindings, something older with XML U2 Led and newer with XML2 T6 Led. I want to modify an old XML U2. How much can I get half way healthy.
Where would I have to replace or replace parts of the circuit board.
The older XML U2 Yindings are from Fasttech,the newer XML2 T6 are from Gearbest!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

My notes say the butterfly is to align the optic properly over the LED. There won't be any height problems. Your using an XM optic with a smaller XP emitter.
The KD link to the XP-L HI is good, mounted on DTP copper board too. The XP-L2 should be a nice upgrade too, but similar beam pattern to the stock XM-L2. It'll be brighter and keep higher output longer due the lower voltage requirement of the XP-L2. 
To increase current you'd need to modify the current sense resistors. I don't have the information on those at the moment (values & calculations). I think it's the same calculation as the BT40S, sense voltage 0.20/resistence total (use a parallel resistor calculator).
Are you sure the fasttech Yindings are "good" with the solid wall behind the emitters? 

-Garry


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

What would you take, XPL High or XPL L2? Which is brighter?

With 10 degrees optics I can throw further, with 15, 25 and 45 degrees 
optics I can radiate wider, so I can also help!

I believe those with the solid wall are better than with the open wall, because the heat faster away from the Leds.
All my Yindings have solid wall!
I replaced my thermal paste by the MX4.
My Yindings are very fast hot!

Why should the open ones be better?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Xp-l2 isnt available yet.

Your question has been answered several times already. XP-L is brighter. XP-L HI has more throw.

10deg has the most throw

Solid wall is better, that's not what he said, he was simply making sure the yindings you have are solid wall

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Well the XP-L2 is available - KD has them, see gecco's 2nd link above. 

Tigris99 has it right in his post above. I feel like we keep answering the same questions. 

If it were me using it on a helmet, I'd choose XP-L HI 4B with 10 degree optics but leave drive current as-is. 

-Garry


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

I was thinking how handy it would be to have a remote, a wireless remote would be better controlling both lights, since the yinding is the one of the better of the Chinese lights how do we go about proposing this to yinding as a possible new edition


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

tbh, wont ever happen. they will want a 500 unit commitment and the price would jump dramatically. some of us modified to fit wired remotes but wireless isnt that simple. and companies like yinding require a 500 unit minimum to get them to do anything.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Ivan87 said:


> I was thinking how handy it would be to have a remote, a wireless remote would be better controlling both lights, since the yinding is the one of the better of the Chinese lights how do we go about proposing this to yinding as a possible new edition


When GJHS first wanted to make a custom light about two years ago it was going to be made by Yinding. We were all excited by the prospect of an upgraded Yinding, one with three led, removable wired remote etc. Anyway, Yinding messed up it's relationship with Gearbest who was going to sell the light. They were sending out units that were supposed to be neutral white, but they were some other tint. They refused to own up to their mistake and Gearbest was left paying the bill. So the upgraded Yinding light was cancelled by Gearbest.

We (mostly GJHS) made another attempt last year to get a custom light made, but right now it's stuck in neutral.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I am curious, after starting this thread just over 2 years ago, how many still have working Yindings? If not still working, how many rides did you get out of this cheap light?

Mine are still going strong, though I haven't ridden them much last year.


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

My first one is more than 2yrs old. But I have one of the gearbest NW (1st batch that had wrong tint)

But now they are just shells. Both have KD drivers and Xp-L hi on noctigon's.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

I have first original YD (more than 3 years) and Gearbest original and they all work fine. Got some Gearbest YDs for my friends and no one had any problems. I never heard of any problems regarding YD except for the wrong tint for first batch Gearbest neutral YDs, but they sent correct replacements (at least to me).


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

My yinding is doing great. Just wish the battery pack still worked. The battery indicator turns red within 10 min. It cuts off completely within an hour of medium and low setting. I haven't found a good replacement pack for this so I've ordered the solarstorm box again. Now I need to find some batteries. Any recommendations or group buys available. Are 4 2600mah batteries enough for the yinding on medium for say 2 hours?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

jokaankit said:


> My yinding is doing great. Just wish the battery pack still worked. The battery indicator turns red within 10 min. It cuts off completely within an hour of medium and low setting. I haven't found a good replacement pack for this so I've ordered the solarstorm box again. Now I need to find some batteries. Any recommendations or group buys available. Are 4 2600mah batteries enough for the yinding on medium for say 2 hours?


4x2600mAh cells would run the Yinding on high for just over 2 hours (at stock 2.4A draw - 5200/2400= 2.17hrs). You are only considering named brand batteries, right? According to my notes, the Yinding draws 1.2A on medium (50%), so you could still get the same 2.17hrs on just 2 2600mAh cells.

You're aware of the issues with the Solarstorm boxes, right? (See thread on that box if not.) What about the Kaidomain Panasonic bike light battery packs? Those are about the best easily available right now, though you may run into issues getting them shipped.

-Garry


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

I just bought two of the kaidomain batteries back in january (2 separate orders) and they got to me just fine. They work great with the yinding and they last for a really long time, 3-4ish hours with a mix of medium/high.


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## jokaankit (May 4, 2014)

That looks like a great option. Does it not have the balance issue associated with other packs/ SS box? I already ordered another SS box, and a lithium cell charger. If the cells are genuine this seems like the best option. I might try the SS box mod to see if I can at least use what I've already bought.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

If you are going to use brand cells and charge them separately out of the box then most SS box issues are not so important. Still voltage drop would be high.
While SS box can be useable for low currents I would prefer KD packs with 20AWG cable, Panasonic cells and proven current >6A. See http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...ck-kaidomain-com-reasonable-price-995303.html


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

I am sure that the info I'm about to ask for, is in this thread some where. I tried to do some due dilligence to find it before asking, sorry if I missed it.

What optics fit within the yinding?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

The optics at LEDDNA listed as "20mm" or "21mm" and specified to fit XM-L or XM-L2. I believe they are 20mm without the white plastic holder and 21mm with the holder (the holder is easily removed).

These same optics are available elsewhere (FastTech for instance), but LEDDNA is cheap and reliable (and usually pretty quick with shipping). Since they are cheap it's recommended to buy plenty of extra and choose a selection.

-Garry


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

Still have a set of 3Cs from Wallbuys probably 3 years ago. Rode a lot the first year, but the area I was using them is closed at night now, plus work got in the way. Still working like champs though, had some wide angle LEDDNA for the bars and a 10 or 15 degree for the helmet, never felt the need for more light mover the combo.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

I bought from LEDDNA twice, second time never got my order (if you only order a couple optics they may not ship). Fasttech is the only Chinese seller I've never had a SINGLE issue with.

And the same optics (ones with white holders) are available in the states just not so cheap 

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I had issues with all of them. Sometimes the issue is the postal service itself. But from LED DNA I ordered twice with tracking # and never got the package.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Yinding lighthead is $27 at Gearbest. Ltd pieces, order one now, and you may get it b4 next winter! Code: CYCL


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Well I broke down and ordered a Yindinger light from gearbest. The description said lighthead only, and that's what I got. (A rubberband or 2 would have been appreciated)
Trail ride later this week if the beauteous weather continues!


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## Corvette (Nov 20, 2005)

Anyone knows why Yinding lights were discontinued? At least that's the impression from Gearbest store...


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

Corvette said:


> Anyone knows why Yinding lights were discontinued? At least that's the impression from Gearbest store...


jut another random flash in the pan made-up storefront chinese light. generic cnc generic web site generic support, sell some batches, move on to the next thing....no one knows who or what is really behind the burn and churn but that is what 99% these cheap lights are.....burn and churn from the same basic driver/chipset series and latest knockoff led.

I could do the same thing, visit Shenzen, lay out 20,000 us dollars for 5,000 built units, put in an order and some design drawings, wait 8 months, get a truckful of crap shipped, and I can start selling 127.0.0.1 lucky best goldstar bike light 1800 lumens. I would have my own garage workshop for repairs, anodizing, and silk screen graphics.... and have the boxes already part of the original order deal.

this reminds me I have my original yinding sitting around barely used, gonna have to strap it on and start using it somewhere somehow. I have so many cheap lights sitting in a metal can now...

and I only ride with my zebralight and fenix bc30r2017 ...as of all the lights I ever used, these two fit my rides and ease of use the best.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yup, I think last batch finaly runt out. It would take a lot of effort to get it back into production unless you show massive group buy. To bad, it was one of the best low cost lights.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

It was nice light indeed...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Corvette said:


> Anyone knows why Yinding lights were discontinued? At least that's the impression from Gearbest store...


My take on it is that there are likely a couple of reasons. One, it is / was becoming problematic for the Chinese to ship anything with "separate" batteries overseas. This might help explain why there seems to be more and more cheap self-contained lights that also charge via USB. When the batteries are built into the lamp ( or anything else for that matter ) this is the loop hole in the law that allows the batteries to be shipped air freight without issues.

Don't know if I'd go as far as to call it, "a nice light". It was what is was. A cheap Chinese dual emitter light with Cree emitters. Compared to it's sister lamp the KD2, the Yinding perhaps had a slightly better housing design ( more material behind the PCB / emitter board ). I never owned a Yinding but I did own a programmable KD2...which btw you can still buy with NW emitters. I doubt I really used it more that a couple times because by that time I had better / brighter lights to use. From my recollection I don't recall there being any major issues with the KD2 I bought other than it did get hot if used on high too long ( just like any other LED lamp ) I don't think there were any issues with the beam pattern because I usually remember stuff like that.

I might just dig my KD2 out of moth balls, throw my vancbiker Duo Gopro adapter on it and give her a spin on the helmet just for old time sake. *cough*...that's assuming of course that I ever get a chance to ride my MtB again..This has been the worse year for MTB rides in my area I've ever had to endure. I'll have to check it but more than likely my area has received more rain June - Sept than it ever has. Pretty sure it set some kind of record for rain fall. Call it luck of the draw but every week I took off from work this year it either rained 80% of the time or it was super, super hot and humid ( what I refer to as heat stroke weather ) I have a nice day today but it rained the last three days...so much for doing any MTB rides unless I want to deal with mud hole after mud hole.  ( Edit; An hour or so after I posted this it started to rain like hell....:madman: )


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Cat-man-do said:


> .......I might just dig my KD2 out of moth balls, throw my vancbiker Duo Gopro adapter on it and give her a spin on the helmet just for old time sake.


There is ~8mm difference in the mounting hole location between a Yinding/Duo adapter and the KD2 adapter. It will bolt on, it's just that the adapter will hang over the edge instead of being centered on the light.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Cat-man-do said:


> Don't know if I'd go as far as to call it, "a nice light". It was what is was. A cheap Chinese dual emitter light with Cree emitters.


That pretty much sums up how I feel about the Yinding's too. Adequate output/performance for mtn. biking, good reliability (lighthead), NW option, and low price made it a good entry level option for those on a budget. This was my first exposure to "cheap Chinese" and while I enjoyed playing around with optics and the "Vancbiker mounts" the high temps. I ride were still too much for this light (several month of the yr.) + the difficult to use mode button + having better options landed the Yinding in my seldom used old light box (R.I.P.).
Mole


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

ya I'm in the same boat. I have 2 of them. FAR BETTER than the KD2 (sorry I know some like them but especially the latest ones are the definition of cheap Chinese poorly designed "stuff").

I think they are cool and nicely done FOR THE PRICE TAG. Compared to what else is out there in the price range it was on top. Still a far cry from anything from a reputable light brand. Far too small for where led tech is currently. Lights running at high temps is not something that works for us. Granted though many say running at high temps is hard on the electronics (properly designed ones like the LEDs themselves are designed specifically for it). But the issue is for our hands and all that.

Be an amazing day when LED tech reaches a point where 1500 lumens can be contained in such a small package and even guys like Mr Mole can blast them without concern for overheating or being burnt trying to operate them.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Cat-man-do said:


> My take on it is that there are likely a couple of reasons. One, it is / was becoming problematic for the Chinese to ship anything with "separate" batteries overseas. This might help explain why there seems to be more and more cheap self-contained lights that also charge via USB. When the batteries are built into the lamp ( or anything else for that matter ) this is the loop hole in the law that allows the batteries to be shipped air freight without issues.
> 
> Don't know if I'd go as far as to call it, "a nice light". It was what is was. A cheap Chinese dual emitter light with Cree emitters. Compared to it's sister lamp the KD2, the Yinding perhaps had a slightly better housing design ( more material behind the PCB / emitter board ). I never owned a Yinding but I did own a programmable KD2...which btw you can still buy with NW emitters. I doubt I really used it more that a couple times because by that time I had better / brighter lights to use. From my recollection I don't recall there being any major issues with the KD2 I bought other than it did get hot if used on high too long ( just like any other LED lamp ) I don't think there were any issues with the beam pattern because I usually remember stuff like that.
> 
> I might just dig my KD2 out of moth balls, throw my vancbiker Duo Gopro adapter on it and give her a spin on the helmet just for old time sake. *cough*...that's assuming of course that I ever get a chance to ride my MtB again..This has been the worse year for MTB rides in my area I've ever had to endure. I'll have to check it but more than likely my area has received more rain June - Sept than it ever has. Pretty sure it set some kind of record for rain fall. Call it luck of the draw but every week I took off from work this year it either rained 80% of the time or it was super, super hot and humid ( what I refer to as heat stroke weather ) I have a nice day today but it rained the last three days...so much for doing any MTB rides unless I want to deal with mud hole after mud hole.  ( Edit; An hour or so after I posted this it started to rain like hell....:madman: )


The Yinding was much more waterproof than the KD2, which had big gaps and lousy thermal path.
Having said that, the KD2 had nicer IU- you could program different brightness levels.

I ended up modding a Yinding with a KD2 driver and NW emitters, and it was a fairly decent light, especially for the price.

I ended up donating them to dental missions for use in the clinics.

Is there something equivalent out there now- an economical 2 LED light with decent thermal path and waterproofing with modern NW LEDs and programmable light levels?

I know Rakc's lights, Gemini Duo and Glowworms do all this, but at a different price point from the chinese cheapies.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Ofroad'bent said:


> The Yinding was much more waterproof than the KD2, which had big gaps and lousy thermal path.
> Having said that, the KD2 had nicer IU- you could program different brightness levels.
> 
> I ended up modding a Yinding with a KD2 driver and NW emitters, and it was a fairly decent light, especially for the price.
> ...


My Yinding Cool White light just crapped out after over 2 years. I never ran it over medium, and rode with it 2 times a week most weeks. Pretty amazing for a Chinese cheapo! The Xeccon battery that I bought with it still charges and works flawlessly for 2.5 hour rides.

The green indicator still comes on, but the lights themselves don't fire up. It never "smoked" or anything, just stopped coming on. I guess it's safe to say there's not much I can do?

LIke you...I'm looking for just a light head that will run well on the bars. I'm spoiled...the Yinding was PERFECT with its light weight and small size, and sufficient lighting when paired with my helmet light. I guess obvious option is to buy a Gemini Duo, but they sell it as a kit for around $200.00, and all I need is the light head...got the O-ring and everything I need to mount it.

Is there anything else out there that isn't going to fry on the first use that's similar to the Yinding for under $50.00?


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Looking like I SCREWED UP by not ordering 3-4 of the Yindings back when they were still selling them and they had reasonable quality. (Sad Face)


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

Found some while looking for a flashlight. They have eight left.

They could be fake for all I know and I have not purchased anything from their store.

http://www.enogear.com/pr.jsp?_pp=0_455_18


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> Looking like I SCREWED UP by not ordering 3-4 of the Yindings back when they were still selling them and they had reasonable quality. (Sad Face)


You can get the light head only for $140: https://www.action-led-lights.com/c.../2016-gemini-duo-light-set?variant=9016199109 Just selection this from the options box.

Tim


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

arc said:


> Found some while looking for a flashlight. They have eight left.
> 
> They could be fake for all I know and I have not purchased anything from their store.
> 
> http://www.enogear.com/pr.jsp?_pp=0_455_18


This is NOT Yinding.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Is there something equivalent out there now- an economical 2 LED light with decent thermal path and waterproofing with modern NW LEDs and programmable light levels?


None that I know of (although your description doesn't really match the Yinding either). Best substitute I can think of is the C&B Seen 1900 3up. Compared to the discontinued Yinding the 3up is a little more expensive (around $50 shipped to US - last listing for Yinding was $36), doesn't have 2 LED's or a NW option for the negatives. It does have about 350 more lumens that give it more throw and slightly less current draw, doesn't overheat (can't say that about the Yinding), comes with a nice QR bar mount (unfortunately won't fit 35mm bars), not programmable but has a program mode that allow you to scroll up and down in 10% increments with the wireless remote that's a additional feature the Yindind doesn't have. Remote is not the best but operates the light reliably when bar mounted. 3 XPG3's so current emitters. I personally like this light much better than I ever did my Yinding.
Mole

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/c-b-seen-1900-3up-1059474.html


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> LIke you...I'm looking for just a light head that will run well on the bars. I'm spoiled...the Yinding was PERFECT with its light weight and small size, and sufficient lighting when paired with my helmet light. I guess obvious option is to buy a Gemini Duo, but they sell it as a kit for around $200.00, and all I need is the light head...got the O-ring and everything I need to mount it.
> 
> Is there anything else out there that isn't going to fry on the first use that's similar to the Yinding for under $50.00?


I'm sure you would be happy with a C&B Seen 1900 3up.

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/c-b-seen-1900-3up-1059474.html

If your considering ordering a Duo I would look at Gloworms Alpha also. A little less power than the Gemini (but more than your old Yinding) and no remote but the included mounts are fantastic and a huge improvement over the Duo/Yinding. Also comes with extra optics for about 2/3 the cost of the Duo. Current draw on the Alpha (and the C&B Seen) is lower than your old Yinding (or Duo) so runtimes with your current battery should improve a little. Don't know if you can get a lighthead only from Gloworm or if possible to order from action (I think they do international).

https://www.action-led-lights.com/collections/gloworm-lights/products/2018-gloworm-alpha-1200-lumen-bike-light
Mole


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## Oli.Hall (Nov 16, 2016)

Dead Yinding wanted in the UK.

If anyone has a dead yinding (or two) that doesn't work any more, with dead LEDs, faulty drivers, or broken cables, but whose case/housing is otherwise in good cosmetic condition, I am after two for a project in the UK.

I would be willing to cover P&P for anyone who can be persueded to part with one (or two) and ship to the UK.

The Yinding is the only light I would be interested in (or a genuine gemini duo or titan.)

Kind regards,
Oli.


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## tamnoon (Nov 19, 2006)

Hi all. My Yinding is dead. When I connect the battery the green light flashes but no light. On the plate inside there is a detail with dtu 06n03 on it. I think this is a transistor. I don't understand in electronics. I found that if connect 2 pins on this detail the leds are work. Does this mean that the problem is in this detail? I didn’t find exact detail in internet. Which transistor can I use instead?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Sounds like your talking about the FET. When you connect two of the pins, you are just bypassing it. If it's only the FET, than that's an easy replacement. I don't know which FET's are suitable replacements though, and not sure if pinouts differ between models. Perhaps ledoman has a suggestion?

-Garry


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## tamnoon (Nov 19, 2006)

garrybunk said:


> Sounds like your talking about the FET. When you connect two of the pins, you are just bypassing it. If it's only the FET, than that's an easy replacement. I don't know which FET's are suitable replacements though, and not sure if pinouts differ between models. Perhaps ledoman has a suggestion?
> 
> -Garry


Thank you Garry. Maybe I'll just use kaid driver instead.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

tamnoon said:


> Hi all. My Yinding is dead. When I connect the battery the green light flashes but no light. On the plate inside there is a detail with dtu 06n03 on it. I think this is a transistor. I don't understand in electronics. I found that if connect 2 pins on this detail the leds are work. Does this mean that the problem is in this detail? I didn't find exact detail in internet. Which transistor can I use instead?


Which two pins did you connect? In fact there are 3 pins. One is used to open flow through FET. So it depends if FET is getting signal on the port or not. Hard to say what's wrong without proper diagnostics.
Could also be something wrong with diode SS34.

Using latest KD driver is also good idea.


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## tamnoon (Nov 19, 2006)

ledoman said:


> Which two pins did you connect? In fact there are 3 pins. One is used to open flow through FET. So it depends if FET is getting signal on the port or not. Hard to say what's wrong without proper diagnostics.
> Could also be something wrong with diode SS34.
> 
> Using latest KD driver is also good idea.


Thanks.

I connected these pins:


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I did a quick search and found this FET available at FastTech: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10017028/3460600-international-rectifier-irf4905pbf-mos-field . Ledoman, is this a suitable replacement?

FWIW - I was rereading this mod thread of mine where I was messing with an FET based driver (KD 4.2v driver) and resistors.

-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Garry, that FT doesn't seems suitable to me. I've found Datatsheet for 06n03 here: 06N03 pdf, 06N03 description, 06N03 datasheets, 06N03 view ::: ALLDATASHEET :::

As I can recognize left pin is Gate, big back is Source and right is Drain. Mid pin should be same as Source, but it should be verified. To my knowledge connecting those two pins red circled on the picture gave some voltage to the Gate pin which resulted in opening path from Source to Drain hence leds turned on. But I might be well wrong, I'm not EE. Archie would know it for shure.

I would check if there is any voltage from LEDA to FET Gate when you try to switch on the light. If there is none, then nothing is wrong with FET. It just doesn't get any signal to open path from Source to Drain.


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## tamnoon (Nov 19, 2006)

I checked voltage from LEDA to FET, clicking on switch. It gave me 0.15, 0.30 and 0.63V on maximum. On the leds it gave 1.4, 1.9 and 2.4 accordingly. Does it say something?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Hmmm, voltage to the leds is to low for them to light up. For two leds in series should be about 5.2V to start glowing. 
There are few diodes if I can see correctly. One is SS34 and the others are marked S4 and W8. Not shure but they are worth a closer look.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

PS. I have found W8 is Zener diode. 








Those can be used as voltage regulator. Something like this:








*Now I can remember once I've got/made fault driver which was not working. Replacing zener diode made it working again.
*
Not that I know about how it works but it helped. I just think it might provide steady voltage to the microcontroler and/or LEDA chip.

This picture might help us to understand FET and dependance on the Gate voltage.








Source: Current | Engineering Expert Witness Blog


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

I have no experience with this light but I have a 2s flashlight with a chip marked leda, it was a QX9920 buck controller. It's been a while and my memory ain't the greatest but I believe the chip ran on 5 volts and output was controlled by pulse width modulation on the enable pin. Jumpering the enable pin to the vdd pin produced maximum output.

http://www.dianyuan.com/upload/community/2015/03/27/1427442373-56499.pdf

The zener diode is likely clipping the voltage spikes to ground. There should be an ldo that takes battery voltage and produces a regulated 5v. Probably have some bleeder resistors and some small capacitors as well as the zener to keep the power supply for the mcu and buck controller clean. If you have a multimeter with diode test the zener should read 5v or open with the negative lead on the ground side. If you put power on the light there should be 5v between vdd and vss on the buck controller.

The down side of trying to fix lights like this is the shipping costs and time to get parts just make it not worthwhile. The parts themselves are cheap, its the total cost that gets you. If you can fit a kaidomain driver in there it is probably the way to go, might be a good time to upgrade emitters as well. Then you have a brand new light that should be good for years.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Thanks Arc. I agree again, KD driver would be nice replacement. Still for the sake of understanding and maybe solution it would be nice to try it out. It might help someone else.


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## tamnoon (Nov 19, 2006)

Thank you guys. This is too much for me. Anyway KD driver on its way to me


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## X83 (May 14, 2018)

.
Yinding... Jing-a-Ling 

Santa Claus came early this year.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

X83 said:


> .
> Yinding... Jing-a-Ling
> 
> Santa Claus came early this year.


Ok, spill the beans please- where did these come from? Are they back in production?


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## X83 (May 14, 2018)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Ok, spill the beans please- where did these come from? Are they back in production?


The Yinding YD 2xU2 lights are still available from the manufacturer but they won't ship them to the United States anymore with the battery packs included because they don't have suitable logistics to make it through customs without them being seized. I was able to purchase a few of these lights without all the accessories through the factory direct, but they only have the black color in stock and if you want the red or blue anodized colors it would require a minimum purchase of 200-pieces.


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

What colour is the led ? Cool white, neutral?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

X83 said:


> The Yinding YD 2xU2 lights are still available from the manufacturer but they won't ship them to the United States anymore with the battery packs included because they don't have suitable logistics to make it through customs without them being seized. I was able to purchase a few of these lights without all the accessories through the factory direct, but they only have the black color in stock and if you want the red or blue anodized colors it would require a minimum purchase of 200-pieces.


Hmm, Black is fine, and so is lighthead-only. All of us here can supply our own batteries.
I bet there's a pretty good market.

My favourite mod was a neutral white, with the 10-step programmable driver.

Any chance of them doing that, rather than needing to hack a KD driver in there?


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## X83 (May 14, 2018)

Ivan87 said:


> What colour is the led ? Cool white, neutral?


Yinding is one of the largest suppliers of Cree emitter chips in China so they can supply almost any correlated color temperature for a large order but they usually keep the (6500K 1A cool white) or (5000K 3C neutral white) lights in stock.



Ofroad'bent said:


> Hmm, Black is fine, and so is lighthead-only. All of us here can supply our own batteries.
> I bet there's a pretty good market.
> 
> My favourite mod was a neutral white, with the 10-step programmable driver.
> ...


I'm installing some 10-step programmable drivers in this batch of neutral white lights at the moment and its moderately easy using some PCB standoff spacers that are M2x7mm with a 5mm thread depth. The hardest part is filing the board down size to fit inside the housing along with using some shorter M2x8mm allen screws to secure the back-cover in place.


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## tamnoon (Nov 19, 2006)

ledoman said:


> Thanks Arc. I agree again, KD driver would be nice replacement. Still for the sake of understanding and maybe solution it would be nice to try it out. It might help someone else.


I do some measurements.
W to 2, 6.25V
W to 3, 5.9V
W to 4, 6.15V
W to L, 0.78V
Does it helps?


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

Hi All

does anyone know if the yinding are still available and where we can get them from???


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

It was mentioned 5 posts above.


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## nerka105 (Sep 8, 2011)

*X83* 
what is manufacturer price for one YD 2xU2?


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## cor35vet (Jul 19, 2015)

Bought a light head here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/220...-Strobe-3-Modes-Bicycle-Lamp/32951719338.html
Seems to be the original factory store and the light head also looks genuine.

However the emitters are not XM-L2 as advertised but the old XM-L ones.

Pictures: https://cloud.botox.bz/apps/gallery/s/tGdKR5DNXCfRrEj

Was bored, MCU pinout:

```
1 - VDD
2 - Green LED
3 - Button
4 - PWM
5 - Red LED
6 - ADC Temperature
7 - ADC Voltage
8 - GND
```
Not sure which MCU is being used since there is no text on it, but I'm guessing it's a PIC.
Bottom of the chip says "AQ1648", any ideas?
However if it's a PIC kinda weird that the PWM is on pin 4 / GP3 which is input only on many PICs.


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## X83 (May 14, 2018)

nerka105 said:


> *X83*
> what is manufacturer price for one YD 2xU2?


I purchased a quantity of 10pcs and the cost came out to be $24.35 USD each for the 5000K 3C neutral white color temperature with the DHL express shipping included.



cor35vet said:


> However the emitters are not XM-L2 as advertised but the old XM-L ones.
> 
> Pictures: https://cloud.botox.bz/apps/gallery/s/tGdKR5DNXCfRrEj


Yes... they're just the Cree XML green base emitters and the back of the lights are laser engraved with YD 2xL2 model name now. If you want the Cree XM-L2 silver base emitters, they can be special ordered but the cost would be slightly higher and they're only around a ten percent increase in light output.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

One of the screws has gone missing from my Yinding’s face plate. Does anybody here know what size they are/where replacements can be purchased? TIA


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

Most hobby stores will sell what you are looking for.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## hesinde2006 (Oct 28, 2012)

Can I use the Yinding with a 3Cell ? And should I use 3Cell LiPos ?


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## MegaVolt (Feb 7, 2004)

tamnoon said:


> W to 2, 6.25V
> View attachment 1230340


Would somebody help me troubleshoot the similar problem?

I am a dummy in electronics, but I have a good multimeter and I can solder smd.

When I hook the light up the green indicator turns on but the light doesn't work when I press the button. Instead, I get 2.2-2.9V on LEDS.

My "W to 1" is 5.19.

Any hints on what to check next?

P.S. Oh, ok, this one got back to life - the sensing resistor was missing. I put 0.11ohm as in tamnoon' picture and all went fine. No idea how it worked without it or how it disappeared if it was there initially.


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## MegaVolt (Feb 7, 2004)

arc said:


> If you have a multimeter with diode test the zener should read 5v or open with the negative lead on the ground side. If you put power on the light there should be 5v between vdd and vss on the buck controller.


5.16V on the zener, 4,94V between vdd and vss on the Leda.

The green indicator is on whenever I connect the light to the battery, but when I press the power button I get 3,8V on the leds no matter how many times I press it. What would you try next?

P.S. Ok I sorted this out. The culprit was the sense resistor. It was ~9k instead of 0.11 Ohm (and it looks so nice and clean I would never have thought it's the culprit - till I checked all elements on the faulty and on the working board and compared them).

This is not the first time that a sense resistor on these PCB's is playing jokes.
I am going to put an end to it. Ordered a bunch of 0.33ohm 1/2W resistors. 1,5W should be enough....


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## MegaVolt (Feb 7, 2004)

cor35vet said:


> Was bored, MCU pinout:
> 
> ```
> 1 - VDD
> ...


You seem to know about this more than some others - is there an easy way to up the PWM frequency?


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## MegaVolt (Feb 7, 2004)

inch said:


> Those are M1.6 screws NOT M2


Are you sure? the M2 screws go in just fine. It's only that the heads are way too big.


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## chowfon (Jun 2, 2009)

I've been running this 900 lumen unit with a 2 cell pack on my helmet since 2016. I'm looking to upgrade to an integrated unit with battery and wanted to see what this group has upgraded to that is equal or better light output and similar or lighter weight .

Bonus for GoPro mount and wireless remote.









Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( Neutral White ) Sale, Price & Reviews| Gearbest Mobile


Buy Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( Neutral White ) at cheap price mobile online, with Youtube reviews and FAQs, we generally offer free shipping to Europe, US, Latin America, Russia, etc.




m.gearbest.com


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

chowfon said:


> I've been running this 900 lumen unit with a 2 cell pack on my helmet since 2016. I'm looking to upgrade to an integrated unit with battery and wanted to see what this group has upgraded to that is equal or better light output and similar or lighter weight .
> 
> Bonus for GoPro mount and wireless remote.
> 
> ...


Self-contained lights have improved but there's still nothing that I know of that will satisfy your requirements. Outbound Hangover makes a little less lumens (approx. 750) but has a narrower more focused beam that will easily out throw the Yinding. 100g weight is heavier than your Yinding lighthead and will only give slightly over an hour @ max output but can run an external battery via USB-C (defeats the self-contained purpose though) and costs $125. Option 2 (Amazon Ceco 1000/1200) weighs approx. 140g but makes 1200-1400 lumens for 75ish min. for $40-47. Less throw than the Outbound but similar to your Yinding with a broader beam. Though there are fewer separate lighthead options than in the past there's a couple of approx. $80 options (Gloworm Alpha, Magicshine Monteer 3500) with similar to slightly more weight that will out perform your Yinding.
Mole


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## chowfon (Jun 2, 2009)

Excellent.i don't use more than the 2/3 setting on the yinding so these two options should be adequate.


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