# Costco Northrock XC6 Bike - Preview



## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

Hi all,

I'm looking for some advice on my next MTB purchase. I'm an experienced rider, not a noob, but haven't rode in over 4 years (New job, marriage, divorce, life, etc.). My gf wants to ride but not spend much money on a bike, and is looking at Walmart/Kmart/Target etc. I'm trying to send her on the right path, but we are trying to save for a house, and I can't really justify another big purchase. So I've been looking at craigslist for two decent used bikes, mostly for riding on dirt paths, and streets, mostly for exercise. I plan to do some more technical paths as I get back into shape. In the meantime, I thought I would go against all advice in this forum and try out a bike I saw at Costco that I thought had ok specs for an entry level bike... and keep said bike if I can adjust it to be pretty decent. Again, let me stress, I'm not a noob. I owned a specialized rock hopper and a hard rock in the mid 90s. I've rode my friends Ellesworths, Marins and Gary Fishers, and I had a couple of road bikes (Schwinn, when Schwinn was decent, and Trek). I rode many great trails on my MTBs while I was a grad student in Utah, including bobsled, gemini bridges, soapstone basin, millcreek canyon and many others I have forgotten. My last 4 bikes were LBS bikes, and most service was good or great. Of these bikes I still own only the Hard Rock, which I beat up for years, and upgraded it's Alivio components to XT, gave it a Softride stem suspension (which was really fun on singletrack), rode Hot Chili tires, and would swap out and use slicks for a commuter. That bike performed double duty for me for a number of years, so I appreciate the quality and a reliability of a decent bicycle. Why I bought a Costco bike a few days ago has to do with some peculiarities of my psychology, as well as Costco's return policy. I did most of the work on my bikes on my own, and learned a lot, so I thought that if a box store bike had decent enough components I can undo virtually any damage the employees at the store could do in assembly, and in the end get a decent bike for a decent price. So I saw this Northrock XC6 bike for $300. At first glance it looks nice, really pretty aluminum frame, disc brakes, shimano components, suntour fork, etc. They had about 8 of them at my local warehouse, so I picked the one with what appeared to the least damage, buy it and take it home. It wasn't an easy choice because all of them had flaws, scratched frames, etc. But the best part, EVERY SINGLE ONE HAD THE FORK MOUNTED ON BACKWARDS!!! Every one. I've never seen anything like it. Well, I took it home to work on it, and look for the 5 average mistakes in assembly of a department store bike, and below is what I found (but first the specs):

Northrock XC6 Bike:

Aluminum "lightweight" frame - designed for stability and control
Shimano Altus shifters - 24 speeds for responsive performance shifting
SR suntour XCT V2 fork
Ninja 26x2.10 tires
Shimano crank
Tektro IO Disc brakes with shimano EF50 levers
KMC Chain
Acera rear derailleur

Geometry is really pretty nice. I mean, after you reverse the fork, of course. The bike is heavy, a hair over 32 pounds. So what was wrong?:

1. Fork: Backwards. Freakin' backwards!
2. Front Brakes: rubbed. Constantly.
3. Rear Brakes: Too loose
4. Front Derailleur: Needed adjustment to shift properly
5. Shift cable: Wrong cable was used from front derailleur shifter to frame (frame to rear derailleur cable is currently there.
6. Steering wheel: angled back
7. Handlebar grips: ripped
8. Frame: Various dings and scratches. Made in China
9. Kickstand: Scratched
10. Kickstand: Installed 
...+ many more

Anyway, I fixed most of this stuff in about an hour with a couple of allen wrenches and a screwdriver.

Today I took it out for a ride:

First the good: The geometry is indeed nice. The bike shifts well, feels lighter than it is. The kickstand. Seriously, I really like it. I haven't had one in 2 decades, and now I wonder why? They actually are useful!

The bad: The tires are horrendous. Horrendous traction on dirt and grass. The brakes are even worse. After spending the better time of my tuning working on disc brakes, I got them to feel ok, but they don't stop me well. I'm only 175# (5'10") and I cannot endo, and I cannot skid the rear tire. No matter how hard I try. For comparison, I used to easily skid my rear or endo on my hardrock, and that was pre-V break, just center pull cable brakes. In fact, I remember skidding and practically endoing on my Free Spirit 26" 3-speed bike from Sears, with its crappy sidepull brakes, when I was a kid. It has to do something with the cables. The Tektro brakes can't be THAT bad.

So needless to say, the POS is going back to Costco, at least in better shape than it left (though I bet they flip the fork back to its original wrong position). I've already found a used Trek 3700 for about the same price on craigslist and I'm wondering if this bike is recommended. It's 19.5".

Thanks for reading.

djm



Bike: Northrock XC6


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## 4JawChuck (Dec 1, 2008)

I've seen last years low end brandname hardtails with disc brakes at my LBS correctly assembled by experienced techs for $370, I wonder why you bother?

I bought my wife a brand new old stock 2007 Trek Fuel 70 dual suspension bike for $550 CDN last year, totally impressed with it performance for the price...she loves it. I have swapped bikes with her to see how it rides and have to say its pretty good just basic, the fork has a lockout and air adjustable rear suspension with no knobs to twiddle but it doesn't really need it so...









https://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/mountain/product/fuel-70-10079

How can you go wrong for less than $600 and get dual suspension that actually works? Walmart is for kids bikes that will be grown out of in a year...not adult bikes. Even then you have to completely disassemble and rebuild the bike to ensure it will be reliable and not dangerous.

I bought my 6 yr/old twins K-mart hardtails because they had 6 spd twist grip shifters and vee brakes for $75 each, the bottom brackets were so poorly assembled the loose bearings fell out when we got them home. I had to rebuild the bikes and grease the bottom bracket (no grease!) and adjust everything so it worked but in the end they were OK.

Unbelievably poor assembly from the store, I think Sears is better but have no experience buying from them. I did witness an old timer building bikes at Sears once and watched to see what he was doing and he at least seemed to have some experience and had an actual torque wrench to make sure the stems were torqued and straight and the forks weren't installed backwards.

Still the same crappy bikes at Sears...just better built.


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## Tuff Gong (May 8, 2009)

Was this Northrock frame a lighter shade of blue with some white or silver? I happened to walk down the bike aisle last night after rounding the auto aisle and smiled:lol: at it as I kept walking. The thing that struck me most as I walked by was the price:skep: I was surprised to see it priced somewhere in the mid to high 200's...I think Thought it was high for a Costco bike but never stopped to really look at the details.

I believe the professional tire and battery installers at Costco builds the bikes. I remember seeing all of them sitting on the shop floor surrounded by boxes and bikes putting them all together last week. Must have been a dead night...:???:


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## theMeat (Jan 5, 2010)

Craigslist and yard sales. It amazes me how many people have great bikes they never use.


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## A1an (Jun 3, 2007)

To the OP....brake pads may need to be broken in a bit. The Juicy 5's on my Paragon were the same way when I first purchased the bike. After a few miles they finally started to grab. 

That bike seemed to be a pretty good package for someone who wants a new bike but isn't sure if they will get into the sport. Bad thing is your average Costco assembler has no idea how to build/tune a bike. The good thing is nothing beats Coscto's return policy. Hell...I bet if you complained about the issues you were having they would pay for tuneups and adjustments at your LBS.


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

Tuff Gong said:


> Was this Northrock frame a lighter shade of blue with some white or silver? .:???:


No, I think that's the comfort bike they also have for around $259. It's black and silver and it is $299. Yes, I think it's a bit expensive for what it is. At the time I was buying it, I missed a Motobecane 700DS on Craigslist for the same price, barely used


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

Occassionally big chain stores like costco, walmart and even canadian tire here in canada do have good bikes... but its usually restricted to maybe ONE model a year... and you'll require a sacrificed bucket of KFC to the inventory gods that your particular store has the bike they've listed on the website. Also it helps if you know how to service/build bikes yourself since you're going to have to basically overhaul it yourself immediately upon buying it.

A few years ago, Canadian Tire had a Raleigh model full suspension for $399 cdn, which actually used a nice Kinesis made frame but with super crappy parts on it. I used one for a budgetlight full suspension project. You can see the results of that here...

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=292146

This year they have listed on the website (though I haven't found in any stores yet) a full carbon (frame & fork) road bike for $999. Its got lower range shimano road components (the non-group name number series stuff below Sora) but the frame/fork are pretty good and definitely candidates for future upgrades.


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## CycleAddict (Aug 8, 2009)

Check bikes direct. I don't buy from them, but you will spend much less money then you would at a shop. If you are a fairly competent mechanic, you should be fine. You will also have a bike that will probably hold up as you get more into riding again. Either that or buy used. Used saves a ton too..


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## mxwheels.net (Apr 21, 2010)

djmacedonas said:


> , not a noob,
> 6.* Steering wheel: angled back*
> 
> Thanks for reading.
> ...


Is this a car, or a bike?


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## xc2006 (Sep 30, 2008)

The whole Northrock line of bikes from costco is made by Giant. So at least you know the frame is quality.


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

Giant? Really?

I can't find anything on the company. I know it's based in PA, near Philly. Are Giant frames made in China, too?

The frame certainly does seem to be good quality, substantial welds, braze-ons in all the right places for water bottle cages, etc...removable (steel?) rear derailleur hanger. The paint is really easily scratched, though.

I took it out for a longer ride yesterday. Having no experience with discs, I realize that A1an is correct, the pads are starting to really grab now. I took it up and down some big hills. It climbs well, but I had one isolated case of chainsuck when I was trying to shift under load. It brakes great now...

Bike feels a bit small. I'm looking at a used Trek tonight or tomorrow, which has a 19.5" frame, but I have to admit. I'm starting to like the Northrock quite a bit... I'll have to beat on it a bit more and see how it goes.


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## glitz (Jan 27, 2010)

CycleAddict said:


> Check bikes direct. I don't buy from them, but you will spend much less money then you would at a shop. If you are a fairly competent mechanic, you should be fine. You will also have a bike that will probably hold up as you get more into riding again. Either that or buy used. Used saves a ton too..


+++1


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

Giant makes frames in Taiwan and China, they're probably the biggest bicycle manufacturer in the world today if you take into consideration all the manufacturing they do for other brands.


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

*More info...*

I talked to Northrock today. The company is based in the Philadelphia area, and they make bikes excluively for Costco. The frame has a lifetime warranty for the original owner, 1 year for other parts. Yet they have no recourse for assembly mistakes at their factory, except to return to Costco. I very much doubt that the company will be around long enough to exercise a lifetime warranty.

The rep I spoke with insisted that the frame that is used is the same frame as other manufacturers, and that the components that the bike has would put it in the $500 range in most shops. I told him about how horribly their bikes were assembled at Costco, and he seemed concerned, like he was taking notes. He was suprised to find, for example, that all of their forks were installed backwards.

Anyway, I wish them luck.


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## Kona0197 (Oct 19, 2004)

Any pictures of the bike?


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

*Pictures*

Here are some pics:

https://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4546341301_dd9df08eb3_b.jpg

https://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4546341301_dd9df08eb3_b.jpg

https://farm5.static.flickr.com/4049/4546342321_719899a62a_b.jpg

https://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/4546974078_6baa296d6d_b.jpg

https://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4546973554_033b170471_b.jpg

Go to my Flickr site if they don't show up:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/djmacedonas/

Then,

There is this:

https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.d...&_trkparms=algo=LVI&its=I&otn=1#ht_7978wt_941


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

Ooops,

One pic was supposed to be this one:

https://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4546341863_48d49077a5_b.jpg


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## Kona0197 (Oct 19, 2004)

How much do they retail for? Just curious.


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

Kona0197 said:


> How much do they retail for? Just curious.


$299.00


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## josephr (Apr 7, 2010)

my wife might ride with me twice a year and I found her a craigslist bargain. a barely used marin for $100...nice aluminum frame, front shock, shimano alivio parts...traded out the cheapo tires with some my half-used nevegals -- I got new ones!  

of course, we went to out west and rented bikes and the one she rode on was full suspension, so now she wants full suspension. Hey -- at least she wants to keep riding, right??? So, I'm thinking about picking up on a rental bike --- they're usually pretty well maintained as they're checked out after every ride and they replace the stuff after the wear out. You might want to check into that too....


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## Autocross (Apr 23, 2010)

I was looking at that Costco bike. I was trying to spend as little as possible. But knowing a thing or two about bikes from 15 years of road biking (I have a very expensive Bianchi with full Campy Record) I had mixed views on this $300 bike. On the one hand I figured you would do better than any retail store but on the other you can always do better on the internet. I went back to bikesdirect.com after a friend asked me an opinion on a road bike they were offering and checked out the 29ers they had. The motobecane for $600 was twice the price ast the Costco but the Moto was a legit mountain bike and not far off from a Specialized 29er with disk brakes, Dart Rock Shox, decent components at under 30 pounds selling at bikes shops for $800. I think there some othes on Bikesdirect.com for $400. Kinda crazy, back in the early 90's when mountain bikes started introducing front shocks you couldn't get a legit trail ready bike with a shock for less than $1300, which at the time was like spending a fortune "just for a bike"


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

That $300 costco bike IS better equipped than any $300 LBS bike would be (excluding perhaps the most price slashed clearout models).


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

*Time invested*

Well,

At this point I've invested some time in this bike adjusting it and essentially re-assembling it. Overall, the problems are fairly minor, I mean nothing a little time and an allen wrench set couldn't fix.

Yesterday I bought another bike off craigslist for my gf. She probably won't like it, though it's far superior to the Costco bike. It's a Trek 930 from the mid 90s, with a Marzocchi DH3 air fork. The fork is really plush and adjustable. The bike rides really nice, it has a ratchetless rear hub which makes it super quiet (Maybe it was a cop bike?) The only noise comes from the noisy shocks, sort of air/oil swishing sound. I've read that older Marzocchi's were known for this. Although the frame is small (16.5) with the seat up I like riding it.

The Costco bike is dialed in now, too... though I had to:

-Adjust both front and rear brake pads to prevent rubbing
-Reverse the forks
-Adjust brakes and derailleur cables
-Re-run the cables (they were ALL in the wrong place, and the wrong tracks on the frame

Still, not a lot of time for a bike with a lifetime return policy


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## PatrickK (Apr 26, 2007)

4JawChuck said:


> I've seen last years low end brandname hardtails with disc brakes at my LBS correctly assembled by experienced techs for $370, I wonder why you bother?
> 
> I bought my wife a brand new old stock 2007 Trek Fuel 70 dual suspension bike for $550 CDN last year, totally impressed with it performance for the price...she loves it. I have swapped bikes with her to see how it rides and have to say its pretty good just basic, the fork has a lockout and air adjustable rear suspension with no knobs to twiddle but it doesn't really need it so...
> 
> ...


Wow, $550 for a fuel.... I do envy you. :madmax: How do I get a deal like that for my wife?


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## Eric Z (Sep 28, 2008)

northrock. hahahahahaahahahaa! so they have a southface as well?


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## BPhil (Apr 26, 2010)

Hey I'm new to mountain biking and absolutely love it! I just bought a Northrock XC6 and i was wondering... How do you know if the fork is on backwards! LOL


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## eat_dirt (May 26, 2008)

BPhil said:


> Hey I'm new to mountain biking and absolutely love it! I just bought a Northrock XC6 and i was wondering... How do you know if the fork is on backwards! LOL


the fork needs to be in FRONT of the head tube.


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## BPhil (Apr 26, 2010)

Wait, i thought the head tube is directly connected to the front fork. So if the fork is on incorrectly it will L shape (curve) to the back and not the front? You know what i mean? it kinda has a lil' bend to it


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## Kona0197 (Oct 19, 2004)

The dropouts where the wheel is attached should be facing forward.


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

Hi BPhil,

Look at the pics I posted. The fork is on correct in those. In those pics, the bike still has some problems. Notably:

- All the cables needed rerouting (done)
- Pedals need replacing for SPDs (ordered, awaiting arrival)
- Kickstand needs removal and disposal (not done yet, because it's useful for all of the adjustments I'm still making.

Work with it... I think the bike has good components and a decent frame for the price... once you have it dialed in you'll enjoy it much more.

Oh, and if you can't tell from the pics the fork is in the wrong position if:

-The bracket on the suspension fork is behind the fork (should be in front)
-The brake disk on front is on the opposite side compared to the back (should be same side)

If the for is backwards, you'll need 2 allen wrenches to fix it. You can get both if you pick up a multi-tool from your LBS. You can get them at Wal-mart or Home Depot as well, and probably cheaper. On of the headset you'll use one allen wrench to remove the bolt and disc. Careful, there is a lockwasher there, don't lose that! Then loosen the two allen bolts holding the handlebar to the stem. Once you do that you can rotate the fork 180 degrees. This is a good time to check the routing of the cables as well. The cables from the right should enter the frame from the left, and the one cable from the left should come in on the right (that cable is for the front derailleur. If this is not the case, then go ahead and carefully remove the handlebar and fix this. It becomes a bit of a puzzle though if you are not careful. Also, mind the fork and the 4 or 5 spacers at the top... once you remove the handlebar assembly the entire fork is free to slip out. Ok, so the routing is (Left to right on the top tube) Rear Brake>Rear Derailleur>Front Derailleur). By the way, you may have to loosen the cables to do this, which means you'll have to readjust EVERYTHING in the end. Not fun. Ok, so everything is routed correctly and the fork is turned correctly, the next step is to reinstall the handlebar on to the stem. Put the headset disc back on, with the allen bolt and lockwasher. Here, ideally, you'll need a torque wrench. Don't ask me how much, I simply don't know, I just turned mine until it wasn't loose anymore, then just a bit tighter. Not too tight...If it's too loose, you'll know right away, by engaging the front brake and rocking the bike back and forth. Finally, make sure the handlebars are centered over the fork and front wheel and tighten the allen bolts. 

Alternatively, you can take it to an LBS and pay them to do it, but it might be cheaper to return the bike to Costco and get a new, properly assembled one, from your LBS.

Have fun!

djm


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

a lil for adjusting low end mechanical brakes, likt eh tecktro io and hayex mx4 and similar,

is to set the brakes and the cable tension, 
screw the adjuster knob n the brake lever all the way in and then one full turn out
loosen the bolts that hold the caliper to the frame or fork until you can move them, 
slive the caliper towards the wheel and tighten it a so that it moves but with a lil force
spin the wheel really fast and sharply pull the brake level
now check to see if the pads are rubbing
if they still rub loosed the caliper to frame bolt a lil more and repeat, spin the wheel hard and fast and stop it hard, once the caliper gets a hold of the disk, it uses it and aligns itself to it. once it al alligned, tighten the caliper bolt to the right torque and repeat for the other wheel.

i figured this out today while tunning up my bike and discovered that both disk where rubbing a lil bit, and the wheel wouldnt spin more that10 times before stopping. and after messing with them for a while and seing the lack of adjustment they had, this was the onlly way to keep the disk from rubbing and having a fairly quick brake respoonse

on a side note, it hard to make my rear brake lock up and skid the tire on cement or road, but if i aplly full force on the trails its easy to skid, so i actually keep the brakes dialed out a bit cause im a brake masher


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## BPhil (Apr 26, 2010)

Awesome, Thanks for the help. I lucked out, the fork is on correctly! wooh!


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

*Wow...*

I'm in love with my new bike... not the Northrock, I feel pretty neutral about that, but the 15 year old TREK 930 with Marzocchi fork, my god that's a lovely bike. The frame is a bit small (16.5") for me (5'10"), so I plan to give it to my girlfriend. Anyway, I've adjusted everything, and tightened all of the loose bolts on the bike, and now it rides so much smoother and nicer, and quiter than the Northrock. It just goes to show you that 15 year old STX-RC components are probably better than brand new ACERA and SIS.


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## mnigro (Jul 31, 2007)

dj, want some more advice...? if I read your post right, think I did, and you've been married & divorced within 4 years - why in God's name are you saving uo to buy a house with your girlfriend???

Take your time before getting back on THAT saddle. 

Just thought I'd chime in with that. That is all.


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## Hellrazor666 (Oct 27, 2008)

If you going to be doing technical stuff with the northrock you're gonna want to ditch the kick stand. Can be very dangerous riding on trails with one


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## 4JawChuck (Dec 1, 2008)

PatrickK said:


> Wow, $550 for a fuel.... I do envy you. :madmax: How do I get a deal like that for my wife?


Heres a Rincon for $500, not dual suspension but a decent starter hardtail with discs and reasonable geo and frame.

http://bikesandbeyond.ca/product/giant-rincon-disc-2894.htm

Its even white! Girls love white bikes. Its likely a few model years old but for a hardtail who cares. My wifes (now my sons Fuel 70) is no high end bike as the suspension design is now discontinued with the new ABP design, still works well though. As long as you don't care about the latest tech there are lots of deals if your willing to look around.

BTW she rides my 2003 Titus Loco Moto now, old tech but a really nice single pivot bike.


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

The kickstand is already gone...


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## BPhil (Apr 26, 2010)

Is this bike worth it? or should i return it and go for a bike from somewhere else, ive seen a lot of posts saying their 10 or 15 year old bike is way better, blah blah. Is this bike a piece of crap or something? It looks like it has quality parts, and disc brakes! but the guy at sport chalet (getting a bike for my gf) said 35 lbs is wayyy to heavy and that i was gonna bottom out a lot. Also what size frame is it? i am 5'11, will that fit me? (also, my gf is 5'6 should she get a 15 or 16?)


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

*Keep it...*

I would keep it...

First of all, the bike is 32 lbs, which isn't too bad, so the guy at the Sports Chalet just wants you to return it so that you buy one of his 32 lb bikes for $200 more. The parts are entry level, decent components and the frame is pretty good.

I find the geometry a bit off for me, and I'm a hair under 5'10"... My earlier comparison to a 15 year old Trek is a bit unfair, though.

I took the Northrock out on a trail the other day (Chimney Rock, NJ). I was a bit rusty but the bike was fine. Actually, I was surprised with how well it climbed, and how well the not-well-regarded Suntour XTC-V2 forks absorbed moderate jumps and roots. I felt it climbed much better than my old Specialized Hard Rock, so that was a pleasant surprise.

As for the geometry, I feel that the seat sits a bit too far forward for my tastes, and I can't get proper leg extension. I plan to upgrade the seat post to something 400mm with a 25mm offset, and that should help. I took off the crappy pedals and put on Shimano M324s.

So my advice, keep it, but make sure everything is dialed in. Then ride it, as hard as you can, and see if you like it (or if you break anything). Costco's return policy will let you use it all Summer, so what do you have to lose?

As for your girlfriend, she should get fitted for a bike. This bike will probably be large for her, since they're all apparently 19". 15" is probably too small.

djm


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## Hellrazor666 (Oct 27, 2008)

If this was FS bike 32 lbs not bad but hardtail at 32 damn a freaking tank  Yeah don't listen to a guy from sports chalet just go ride it you will be fine. Having a bike that heavy will make you a stronger rider !! Having to ride that tank around


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## nachomc (Apr 26, 2006)

Breaking news: Costco bikes, Target and Wal-Mart bikes suck. More at 11.


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## civil (Feb 13, 2008)

nachomc said:


> Breaking news: Costco bikes, Target and Wal-Mart bikes suck. More at 11.


No way, I would buy the bike based on the tires alone....



djmacedonas said:


> Ninja 26x2.10 tires


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## davidbeinct (Dec 6, 2007)

BPhil said:


> Is this bike worth it? or should i return it and go for a bike from somewhere else, ive seen a lot of posts saying their 10 or 15 year old bike is way better, blah blah. Is this bike a piece of crap or something? It looks like it has quality parts, and disc brakes! but the guy at sport chalet (getting a bike for my gf) said 35 lbs is wayyy to heavy and *that i was gonna bottom out a lot*. Also what size frame is it? i am 5'11, will that fit me? (also, my gf is 5'6 should she get a 15 or 16?)


Wow, that is one of the most ridiculous things I think I've ever heard. First, what does he mean by bottom out? Second, I'm assuming he means you'll use up the fork travel too often. Uh, a few extra pounds on a bike is not going to make that happen. The rider makes up so much more of the total bike/rider weight that the weight difference in bikes is almost inconsequential (within reason). Plus the rider has a huge affect on center of gravity of the system. I doubt you could even measure a difference in the sag in the same fork with the same rider on a 32 lb bike and a 28 lb bike.

And yes, I realize I just engaged in a third hand internet argument with an unknown Sports Chalet employee, but some things are just too stupid for me not to jump at.

David B.


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## BPhil (Apr 26, 2010)

HAHAHA ok, thanks for the advice guys. gotta love the internet, hilarious posts. Ya, f sport chalet and their employees, im staying with my northrock! gonna go gank some mountain lions!


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

djmacedonas said:


> I would keep it...
> 
> First of all, the bike is 32 lbs, which isn't too bad, so the guy at the Sports Chalet just wants you to return it so that you buy one of his 32 lb bikes for $200 more. The parts are entry level, decent components and the frame is pretty good.
> 
> ...


x2................ride it!


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## StephanieG (May 5, 2010)

It looks like the all the Costcos around my town just carry entry level bikes. Stuff that you see people riding at the beach. I always thought all the Costcos had the same inventory but I guess not.


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

Here is the used 15 year-old trek:





Excellent Bike!


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## Kona0197 (Oct 19, 2004)

I love the older bikes. That Trek is in great shape.


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

It really is. There are a few chips on the paint, with rust, if you look closely. The fork leaks air on the left side, but I bought a fork pump. Someday I may rebuild it. The bike is solid. I changed seats, and put on a girly A.R.S. seat. I replaced the pedals with the crappy plastic ones from the Northrock, at least until she is comfortable with the bike to ride with toe clips.

Riding the bike makes me long for the beautiful simplicity of my hard rock. Everytime I remove the front wheel on my Northrock, I have to suffer to realign it so the brake doesn't rub.


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## Hellrazor666 (Oct 27, 2008)

YIKES grip shift


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## clintrosser (Apr 14, 2009)

I'm a Costco employee, and those bikes come in mostly assembled. They are in large boxes, and really require the wheels, seat, and handlebars be put on. While not idiot-proof, people in the stores are not doing any technical work. Cables are pre-ran, brakes are assembled, etc. They are coming that poorly tuned from the factory. 
They seem like they would be o.k., but I've been skeptical. We had some DB's that looked alright as well. I thought they seemed like decent started bikes, but not much beyond that.


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## Kona0197 (Oct 19, 2004)

> YIKES grip shift


Nothing wrong with Gripshift.



> They are in large boxes, and really require the wheels, seat, and handlebars be put on.


And pedals right?


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## Hellrazor666 (Oct 27, 2008)

Kona0197 said:


> Nothing wrong with Gripshift.


If there was nothing wrong with it where did it go ???


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

clintrosser said:


> I'm a Costco employee, and those bikes come in mostly assembled. They are in large boxes, and really require the wheels, seat, and handlebars be put on. While not idiot-proof, people in the stores are not doing any technical work. Cables are pre-ran, brakes are assembled, etc. They are coming that poorly tuned from the factory.
> They seem like they would be o.k., but I've been skeptical. We had some DB's that looked alright as well. I thought they seemed like decent started bikes, but not much beyond that.


All bikes come like that. I worked a shop for a while and that is the reality. It is Costco's or whomever's responsibility to tune the bike correctly (adjust the brakes, derailer,s check torque, etc). You can't pre-assemble a bike, tune it, then disassemble it, and have it work correctly when you reassemble it. Things shift around, the housing ends don't bed in or go to the exact same position as when everything was conected/tightented, etc.


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## Kona0197 (Oct 19, 2004)

Hellrazor666 said:


> If there was nothing wrong with it where did it go ???


What do you mean? Gripshift is still sold.


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## clintrosser (Apr 14, 2009)

Jayem said:


> All bikes come like that. I worked a shop for a while and that is the reality. It is Costco's or whomever's responsibility to tune the bike correctly (adjust the brakes, derailer,s check torque, etc). You can't pre-assemble a bike, tune it, then disassemble it, and have it work correctly when you reassemble it. Things shift around, the housing ends don't bed in or go to the exact same position as when everything was conected/tightented, etc.


You are correct, unfortunately Costco (or whoever) does not employ trained bike mechanics to tune them correctly. Frankly, it bothers me; but I guess that is why it's a better idea to buy from a bike shop.


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## futurerocker1 (Sep 16, 2009)

i didnt take the time to read the thread completely but ive seen a lot of posts about the target brand bikes... i think its called the forge sawback.. if i remember correctly it was 3-400 range and was a pretty legit bike.. can anyone help me out wiht a link?


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

Here let me google that for you  :

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&q=forge+sawback&aq=f&aqi=g5&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=

http://www.target.com/Men’s-Forge-Sawback-Hard-Tail-Mountain/dp/B000LWH8KC

DescriptionThe Forge Sawback 5xx hard-tail mountain bike has been recognized by mountain bikers countrywide as a bike with an exceptional value. This bike offers brand name components and is awesome on dirt trails and single tracks. Shimano Deore drivetrain and shifters with a Truvativ ISOflow crankset, RockShox Dart 1, dual AVID BB-5 mechanical disc brakes and a lightweight aluminum double-butted frame provide superb stability, control, power and responsiveness. Sawback 5xx uses well-recognized WTB products such as: WTB SpeedDisc XC Rims, a Pure V Sport saddle and grips. 19" frame stands over 31.7H" fits most riders 5'9" to 6'1". Note: Frame size is determined by measuring the distance from the center of the bottom bracket (the bolt that locks in the crank) to the top of the seat tube. Stand-over height is determined by measuring the distance from the ground to the top tube. A bike that you ride only on paved surfaces and never take off road should give you a minimum stand-over height clearance of 2", a bike that you ride on unpaved surfaces should give you a minimum of 3" of stand-over height clearance and a bike that you ride off road should give you a minimum of 4" of stand-over height clearance.
FeaturesAll-aluminum, double-butted lightweight frame with WTB SpeedDisc XC rims, saddle and grips for real quality
Shimano Deore 27-speed derailleur and Shimano Deore shifters
AVID BB-5 mechanical disc brakeset for ultimate stopping
RockShox Dart 1: 100mm travel with preload front suspension
Truvativ ISOflow aluminum triple crankset
Bicycle Frame Height: 19"
Bicycle Frame Material: Aluminum
Wheel Features: Puncture Resistant
Rim Material: Metal Alloy
Brake System: Disc
Used For: All Mountain
Manufacturer Suggested Age: 18 Years and Up
Care and Cleaning: Wipe Clean With Soap and Water 
Additional InformationDPCI: 242-04-1627 
ASIN: B000LWH8KC 
Catalog #: 10476138 
Item can not be gift wrapped. 
Made in the USA or Imported 
Shipping & PoliciesThis item cannot be returned to a Target store; find out how to return this item to Target.com.Opens in New Window 
Shipping & Delivery InformationOpens in New Window 
Estimated Ship Dimensions : 53 inches length x 28 inches width x 8 inches height 
Estimated Ship Weight: 39.00 pounds. 
This item can only be shipped to the 50 states. We regret it cannot be shipped to APO/FPO, or Puerto Rico. 
This item must be shipped separately from other items in your order. A separate shipping charge will also apply. 
We regret that this item cannot be shipped to PO Boxes.


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## futurerocker1 (Sep 16, 2009)

yup thats the one, check out reviews on here..i think there was a thread on either general or beginners not too long ago either


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

Hmmm, I may have to return the Northrock after all....:madman:  .


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## Kona0197 (Oct 19, 2004)

Why?


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

Kona0197 said:


> Why?


To buy the sawback...for $41 you get a 1.5 lb lighter bike, better components, 27 speeds instead of 24, 100mm travel fork instead of 80mm, AVID BB5 brakes instead of Tektro IO, etc.


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## Kona0197 (Oct 19, 2004)

I see. Nevermind that I asked. How much does the Sawback weigh?


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## BPhil (Apr 26, 2010)

Hmm, what about putting it together tho, i dont think it will come pre-assembled right? I have no idea how to build a bike.


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## Kona0197 (Oct 19, 2004)

Usually just put the pedals on and the handlebar.


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## BPhil (Apr 26, 2010)

Sweet, im returning my northrock today and ordering the sawback


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## Kona0197 (Oct 19, 2004)

To bad the sawback only comes in Red. They have other colors but those are other sizes as well.


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## BPhil (Apr 26, 2010)

They come in other colors... blue and grey, which are both 19", the red one is 17" i think. The northrock is also 19" so it would be the same.


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## Kona0197 (Oct 19, 2004)

I can't ride a 19 inch. Too big.


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## BPhil (Apr 26, 2010)

Hmm, so should I do it? My LBS said it would cost 58 bucks for a tune up, which i will definately need, so the question is... is the sawback worth 100 bucks more than the northrock?


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## BLite (May 11, 2010)

Just pickup the Northrock SC7 from Costco, the price ($259) was reasonable since I plan to use it for recreational riding with the wife. The two assembled bikes on display were damaged from customer mishandling so I had Costco get a boxed one down for me. I rather assemble something myself rather than depend on someone else to get it right. Assembly was fairly simple although I still need to adjust brakes and shifter. Took it on a three mile tour around the town (Punta Gorda, FL) and was happy with the performance and handling. very comfortable bike. I'm 6'3" 250 lbs. not many bikes ride as good as this one did. The only change I made was to take off the small butt seat and put on a wider one for my big butt.


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## officerchuck (May 16, 2010)

*Northrock bike sucks*

I return 2 Northrock bike back to Costco. They were terrible assembled. The biggest problem: They don't shift properly. My friends $150 bike he purchased at Toysrus works a lot better than the $300 bike I purchased at Costco.

I think I just going to stay away from Costco.


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## Kona0197 (Oct 19, 2004)

Yep. Red is the 17 inch and blue and silver are the 19 inch.


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

officerchuck said:


> I return 2 Northrock bike back to Costco. They were terrible assembled. The biggest problem: They don't shift properly. My friends $150 bike he purchased at Toysrus works a lot better than the $300 bike I purchased at Costco.
> 
> I think I just going to stay away from Costco.


This very well could be the first time a Toys R Us bike has ever been mentioned on this forum!


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## zoomroom (May 26, 2010)

*disc brake pad replacements for this*

I bought one of these and had it in the north country of AZ this weekend and it performed well. I used to ride KHS and Klein and have to say I was surprised that this bike, once adjusted, felt very very similar to what I remember $1500 bikes riding like 20 years ago. My question is about getting some replacement brake pads/discs. it's been more than 15 years since riding seriously and I'm getting back slowly, but the one thing I remember is to get a few spares in case the mfg changes or goes under. Where do you guys get your replacement parts? Who is good? My LBS went away about two years ago, I'm in Phoenix, az but not allergic to using online stores if they're working better.
thanks
pb


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

zoomroom said:


> I bought one of these and had it in the north country of AZ this weekend and it performed well. I used to ride KHS and Klein and have to say I was surprised that this bike, once adjusted, felt very very similar to what I remember $1500 bikes riding like 20 years ago. My question is about getting some replacement brake pads/discs. it's been more than 15 years since riding seriously and I'm getting back slowly, but the one thing I remember is to get a few spares in case the mfg changes or goes under. Where do you guys get your replacement parts? Who is good? My LBS went away about two years ago, I'm in Phoenix, az but not allergic to using online stores if they're working better.
> thanks
> pb


You could try Amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=tektro+io+pads

Tektro io is a pretty popular brake, so you should have not problem. By the way, did you buy the Costco bike or the Target Bike. The link above is for the Costco Northrock Bike, which has Tektro IOs. I believe the Target has Avid BB5s.

If you are discussing the Costco bike, I have to agree. After dialing everything in myself, I have a pretty decent bike. I had to upgrade the petals (to Shimano 324s) for SPD compatibility, and I upgraded the seatpost because the zoom that came with it was stupid short. It rides well on technical trails. Fork is decent, not great.


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## GPSpartan (Oct 19, 2009)

I had/have that singletrack. I loved it. Still hooked up to my trainer in the basement. I had an old Rock Shox Quadra on it.


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## zoomroom (May 26, 2010)

*costco*

I did get the bike at costco. As soon as I sent the previous post I had a brainstorm and checked ebay ... since pads are pretty much commodities. I now have pads until the bike goes to grandkids (my kids are 10 & 12 so ... quite a while away.) I agree with the seat post, short & straight, I'll be getting a bigger post with a 25ish degree angle to set myself comfortable, but for now I get to ride with the kids and they're as amped as I am to get on the trails ... which is what this is about. After the seat post I'll be looking for some bags to put on the back since we're planning some long trips this summer.

oh ... and I failed to slime right away, now I've pulled thorns out and slimed, so I'm little more confident.

DO NOT STOP RIDING! I lost 15 years to riding and never knew how much I missed it until this weekend.

pb


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## Paul Mattson (Jun 1, 2010)

*Nice Bikes - Great Price!*

Thank you all for bringing to my attention the Northrock bicycle at Costco. What a fantastic buy. Little about me, I'm retired; worked in a bike shop as a kid, probably before most of you were probably born.

I was looking to buy online, hence how I came to mtbr, when I came across an article on Northrock. On our most recent visit to Costco, my wife and I ventured to the bicycle section. I saw the SC7, 700C Tire men's comfort bike and the XC6 mountain bike.
My initial observation is "wow"&#8230; brand name specs:thumbsup: , nicely designed aluminum frame. After doing some research, I couldn't find a better deal anywhere. I like the fact I can pick-up at a store, and I really like that Costco backs their products.

What I purchased: The Northrock SC7 and the XC6. The SC7 is for me and I have 50miles on the bike (two weeks old), no problems. The bike has a dependable SHIMANO Altus drivetrain and SHIMANO crank, Tektro brakes and a SOFI suspension, VELO saddle and Kenda tires. Like I said, I used to work in a bike shop - I may be retired but I still know my bikes!

The XC6 is for my grandson, I want to introduce him to biking. The XC6 has a SHIMANO crank, TEKTRO IO disc brakes, WTB saddle, SHIMANO Acera drivetrain, all aluminum frame (nicely built), SR V2 suspension.

Assembly: All parts were assembled correctly. However, I did do my own check just to make sure; I tighten the stem bolt and pedals, and put extra lube on the chain. 
On the XC6 there was minor rubbing on the brakes, back in my days we didn't have disc brakes (tip: the front disc should be on the same side as the rear - left side if sitting on the saddle). I emailed TEKTRO and they informed me that this is completely normal for a new bike to have some minor break-in rubbing, if continues to adjust the pads, which is very easy (see tektro website). I stretched the cables and did some minor tuning at the barrels, greased the seattube and correctly inflated the tires. Total time for the check was about 20 minutes. And certainly, 20 minutes well spent.

I would suggest doing a check regardless of where you buy a bike. What I love about the internet is that there is plenty information on bicycle adjustments and maintenance (google bicycle assembly or bicycle maintenance). This is very simple and worth learning.

My grandson is enjoying his mountain bike and is showing some promise&#8230; it must be in the genes. With our savings we went to a bike shop and bought new helmets, clipless pedals and water cages/bottles. I guess the next thing I need is a bicycle rack for my SC7. 
I am happy to answer any questions you might have about my Northrock - just ask&#8230; I give Northrock an A+! (PS: I don't check email often).


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## SnowMongoose (Feb 18, 2007)

Costco employee mini-rant:
What people are saying about returns at Costco is right...
we'll take back freaking anything.
We see tons of bikes coming back, almost all with reasons like "shifter is broken" or 'gears don't work.'
We take them back because idiots can't tune a freaking derailleur
(whoever thought that costco would cover a tuneup, you're dead wrong. No way.)
and then have to destroy the entire bike.
/end rant

Like I said in a similar thread about Costco bikes, odds are that the stocker who puts it back together isn't a cyclist... hence things being done so wrong. 
For sure get it looked over before you ride one, even if it's 'only' by a shade-tree mechanic.


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## zoomroom (May 26, 2010)

I agree, today we did 30+ miles as we've done several times, steep rocky terrain and short of a puncture (quickly & easily fixed) this bike has been just like one of my old klein bikes that I paid 10 x as much for.


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## PathogenX (Jun 7, 2010)

Hey guys I was at costco today and I saw this bike and I was very impressed with it.

I am planning on buying a bike I have a $300 budget and I couldnt find anything about this bike except here.

I am picking btwn the north rock and the Giant boulder. 
The giant is $30 more

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/model/boulder.white/3880/36244/

The giant seems to have lower components than the northrock.

Which should I go with? 
Help much appreciated.


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## Kona0197 (Oct 19, 2004)

The Forge bikes offer much more bang for the buck then the Costco lineup offers.


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## PathogenX (Jun 7, 2010)

Kona0197 said:


> The Forge bikes offer much more bang for the buck then the Costco lineup offers.


The forge is online only and $400

I also only have a $300ish budget.

It's between the Giant boulder $330 at a local bike shop 
or 
the Northrock for $300 at costco. I will see if I can tighten things up. 
(i am a complete noob)


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## studio54 (Jun 7, 2010)

*Could use some help folks*



djmacedonas said:


> Hi BPhil,
> 
> Look at the pics I posted. The fork is on correct in those. In those pics, the bike still has some problems. Notably:
> 
> ...


Hey Djmacedonas and anyone else who can help,
I just bought the same NorthRock from Costco and this thread is pretty much the only worthwhile hit on google for any decent information on this bike.
I just used your instructions to verify that the fork is indeed on correctly and that the lines have been run correctly in the proper order from left to right (rear brake then derailer then front derailer).
Here is my problem that I could really use some help with, the left shifter gets very hard to push when I try to shift to '3' and the right shifter will not shift past '4'. It starts @ '8' and as I click to 7, 6, 5 etc. it gets progressively harder and harder to push till I hit 4 and then no amount of power can make me hit 3. Quite frankly if I was able to hit '3' I think the line will definitely snap and the recoil would potentially kill my cat if it was in the vicinity. 

The "manual" that comes with the bike is worthless. Can someone please point me to some easy to follow instructions on how to readjust the line on both derailers?

I've got a decent tool kit and I'm pretty handy with my hands. I work on my car and motorcycle for the usual run of the mill upkeep.... oil changes, brake work, tune ups, gas filter etc. so I'm trainable. 

Thanks much.


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## zoomroom (May 26, 2010)

I have no experience with Giant. I just returned from another ride around piestawa peak here in Phoenix and love the northrock a little more each time.
do what makes you happy. 
pb


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## PathogenX (Jun 7, 2010)

I will not be doing any hard trails or jumps or anything.

Just riding around my neighboorhood transportation no more than 3 miles. 
I willalso ride off road on smooth trails and grassy parks. 

I do not need crazy suspension or forks. I highly doubt I am going to need the parts of the giant. For what I am doing. 

I also feel better buying from a LBS with the support even if the parts are lower.


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## tmbutsch (Jun 23, 2010)

*Father's Day present.*

My wife bought me the Northrock XC6 from Costco for Father's Day. We went to the Costco by the Portland Airport and I picked out one of the 5 floor models that seemed fairly well put together (3 of the 5 had the forks on backwards so I only had two to choose from).

Got it home and took it around the block a few times, and decided just for peace of mind I would take it into my LBS (Bike Gallery on NE Sandy in PDX) for a look over. They did a 'safety check/re-build' for $65. It rides great now. They were also very complimentary of the components, and one guy at the shop told me that they would sell a similarly equipped bike at their shop for $600+ (he may have just been being nice to a newbie, but doesn't seem like that would help their business).

So basically, I got a decent MB with fairly good components that is now 'professionally' put together and rides well for $365. I think I got a pretty good deal.


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## djmacedonas (Apr 21, 2010)

Congrats!

As much as I like this bike, I'm going to probably return it to Costco (and after all that work "getting it right"). I could have taken it to an LBS for the $65 rebuild, but there are some things about the bike that have gotten me kind of annoyed.

Number 1: the disc brakes. They stop well enough, but they rub everytime I take the wheel off and put it back on. I have to spend too much time readjusting everything.

Number 2: An anoying noise now from the crank. Also, there appears to be grease leaking from the BB. Not good.

Number 3: The geometry. It was never quite right for me. The top tube appears too short, so I feel kinds scrunched.

Number 4: The name. Northrock. Ugh.

I still think it's a great bike for the price. I recently picked up a craigslist special, a 2007 Motobecane Fly Pro for $200. The RS Pilot SL fork appears to be equally crappy as the Suntour XCT V2 on the Costco bike, but otherwise this used bike is a much better fit for me. The frame is 18" but feels somehow larger (albeit shorter) than the Northrock. The XT gearing is superior, and the bike is fast. Weight is a hair under 23 lbs!!! It is ridiculously light. I too had to take it to the LBS for a tune-up (around $78 because they replaced some worn cables), but now I am truly happy. Even though the brakes are not discs they actually stop far far better than the Discs on the costco bike (go figure).

Here is a write-up I found on the Fly Pro:

http://www.mtnbikeriders.com/2007/10/08/motobecane-fly-pro-review/


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## pecsokak (Sep 23, 2010)

I am new to the sport and bought this bike about a month ago, thinking it would work well. I was looking to spend as little as I could because I was new and didn't know how much I would go and everything.

I have had some problems with the bike since I got it, mostly just loose parts and the like, but I did have the chain snap, it doesn't shift right, and the front disc rubs. I think I fixed it yesterday, but I will know for sure once I get back on the trails.

All in all it works pretty well for me for the price. I am hoping that everything that is bad about it will break soon so I can just fix what I need to do and then be good to go. I don't have anything to compare it too really, except my friends specialized hardrock, but it seems to ride just as well for a lot less money.


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## cwest3355 (Oct 30, 2010)

I have had the bike for about a year now and havent had anytrouble with it at all everything has worked perfectly except for the tires which are cheap so when those went out i got new ones. The brakes work and it shifts through gears flawlessly you will have to do a little adjusting to the brakes and handle bar, for the handle bar is upside down and backwards. For the brakes they seem really weak at first and they will eventually break in.


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## light1 (Apr 19, 2012)

So you guys recommend this as a first mountain bike? also any good trails in northern VA?


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

light1 said:


> So you guys recommend this as a first mountain bike? also any good trails in northern VA?


No, please check out the bikes at your LBS instead. You'll get a much better quality bike actually put together by real bike mechanics,

Check here for Virginia rides.


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## pecsokak (Sep 23, 2010)

i wouldn't say it is bad for a first bike, but it depends on your budget and how interested you plan on getting into the sport. if you are going to be riding once or twice a month it will be fine, but if you plan on really getting into it, i would recommend something else.

the local forum on here, or cyclingcentralva.org has good info on local trails. fountainhead is supposed to be the best in nova, but i haven't ridden there yet.


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## roblee (Sep 26, 2011)

I work for Costco and the guys that do the stocking put them together and they know absolutely diddle about bikes.


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## Restricted (Jun 11, 2011)

If you don't want to bother looking for a better deal on Craigslist, I recomend it for your first bike. I have an XC6 and it has held up fine. My nephew has been using it on fireroads and paved bike trails. Has about 500 miles on it and everything is still fine.


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## light1 (Apr 19, 2012)

I'll continue looking on CL, I am a CL junkie. This would be mainly my first bike to ride with my sons, nothing dramatic.


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## light1 (Apr 19, 2012)

How about these, or one of these?

washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/bik/2961056686.html


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## JaSkynyrd (May 31, 2012)

First post, but I've followed this thread for awhile along with the few others about the Northrock on MTBR.

I bought a Northrock earlier this month after looking for a mountain bike since October. For the price (and return policy) this bike cannot be beat. I looked all over for a bike with the same specs and they all start at ~$200 more than the Northrock (which is $350 now, at least at my local Costco). Yes, the components are on the lower end of the range, but for a novice like myself who just wanted to get some wheels under me to see how i like mountain biking, I think it is great.

If money is not an issue, yes you absolutely can get a better bike, but I had a very limited budget and will also be taking care of most maintenance myself to keep my costs down. I've taken it out several times and put approx. 40 miles on it and other than a minor tuning of the rear derailleur it's been a GREAT bike. I'll update as I put more miles on it or issues arise.

For someone to say "No, this bike is not recommended for beginners, visit your LBS and spend more for less", probably without ever having seen this bike, blows my mind.


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## JaSkynyrd (May 31, 2012)

Also, one of the OP's original gripes were the tires. For better or for worse, (can't say as I've never ridden on Kenda Ninja tires) the bike now comes with WTB Moto Raptors. I can say they have performed well for me so far.

Also, the front fork is now a SR Suntour XCT V4 in place of the V2.


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## lov2bike01 (May 21, 2011)

*Shop talk*

Checkout the Northrock Shop Talk... 
I had my XC6 over a year, awesome bike.

Northrock Bike - Shop Talk


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## wolfstemp (Jun 12, 2012)

Hi. I'm looking to spend around $500 or less. I'm fat, about 335lb and looking to lose weight. I recently lost 40lbs riding on a recumbent exercise bike and I hate doing that when I don't have to. I'm also fairly confident I can get below < 300 by mid July and < 275 by September. I used to ride a lot in my youth. I have a fairly level trail with some gravel from time to time by my area, no crazy jumps.

Would you guys recommend either the Northrock XC6 that's about $350 or the Forge Sawback 5xxx from Target for around $500?

The only reason I'm leaning towards the Costco bike is that I was able to try it in their aisle and it seemed decent for the short "ride", especially the brakes. I once lived in Europe and bought a cheap bike off the internet instead of the LBS which seemed expensive, and it was a complete PITA, so I shy away from internet specials.


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## JaSkynyrd (May 31, 2012)

I would think both would work out well for you. The Forge has higher quality parts than the Northrock, but for your purpose I would save my money and get the Northrock. Again, both would work (and it appears the Forge would be the better of the two) but I'd buy the Northrock because of the savings.


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## wolfstemp (Jun 12, 2012)

Ok, thanks for the answer. But what does higher quality mean? I once read that in the low end, it simply meant reduced weight and at the high end (multiple 1,000s dollars) the components may actually way more than the class immediately below them but were built for more strength.

Where I was living in Europe, it was mountainous, I was obviously much lighter (~200), but climbing hills I stretched out and broke the chain many times on the cheap PoS (I was too stupid to replace it and opted to continually fix it at the time).

So on the Sawback Forge, are we talking simply lighter weight components which obviously won't make a wit of difference for me, or heavier duty?


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## JaSkynyrd (May 31, 2012)

wolfstemp said:


> Ok, thanks for the answer. But what does higher quality mean? I once read that in the low end, it simply meant reduced weight and at the high end (multiple 1,000s dollars) the components may actually way more than the class immediately below them but were built for more strength.
> 
> Where I was living in Europe, it was mountainous, I was obviously much lighter (~200), but climbing hills I stretched out and broke the chain many times on the cheap PoS (I was too stupid to replace it and opted to continually fix it at the time).
> 
> So on the Sawback Forge, are we talking simply lighter weight components which obviously won't make a wit of difference for me, or heavier duty?


I may come across as sounding like I know exactly what I'm talking about, but I really don't. Having said that, I do know that for instance, the derailleurs and brakes are straight up better than the Northrocks. Front shock too. You're probably saving a little weight over the Northrock which weighs 32 pounds but when you're talking about paying more for weight savings that's in the much higher end stuff; down here in the budget bike section you're spending 50 bucks more for a shock built with better materials and tighter tolerances, not $400 more on one that's 10 ounces lighter (and still capable of absorbing EXTREME punishment).

Weight savings in our case may be present but is negligible.

I am extremely satisfied with my Northrock. Reviews online show that most people are extremely satisfied with their Sawbacks as well.


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## wolfstemp (Jun 12, 2012)

No problem. The nice thing about the internet is getting to avoid mistakes, but I've been researching this and bumped up with information overload and getting angsty over things I won't know until I actually buy one or the other.

I guess I'll just pull the trigger, get the Northrock, if I don't like it, I'll just return it and get the other one. If it lasts me a year and a half, that'd be great. Hopefully I'm into it more and can commit to something more expensive that I'd want, like a crank forward of some type.

Thanks for the help.


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## bessmertni (Jun 14, 2012)

It seems to me from the comments, this would be an excellent beginner MB for the price so long as its assembled and tuned correctly, either by a bike shop or someone who knows what they are doing. And only the elitists who swear by bike shops only and spit on anything less then $600 seem to discourage the Northrock without ever looking it, simply because its sold by a box store. 

After reading most of the posts in this thread I've made a list of considerations.
1. $300 is a very good price for a beginner bike with the components the Northrock has.
2. My Costco has these un-assembled, still in the box, so I can have it more easily have it assembled and tuned at a bike shop or my neighbor who is in to such things.
3. Most people who have purchased this bike and had it properly tuned, seem to be quite happy with it.
4. In the end, if I ride if for a while and it doesn't cut it, I can take it back, get a refund and then save up to get a low end Specialized or something similar for $600+.
5. Almost anything is better than the second hand garage sale p.o.s. I currently posses.


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## Apache249 (Jul 30, 2009)

bessmertni said:


> It seems to me from the comments, this would be an excellent beginner MB for the price so long as its assembled and tuned correctly, either by a bike shop or someone who knows what they are doing. And only the elitists who swear by bike shops only and spit on anything less then $600 seem to discourage the Northrock without ever looking it, simply because its sold by a box store.
> 
> After reading most of the posts in this thread I've made a list of considerations.
> 1. $300 is a very good price for a beginner bike with the components the Northrock has.
> ...


And here we have a guy going on the false premise that you can't get "a low end Specialized or something" for less than $600.


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## JaSkynyrd (May 31, 2012)

Apache249 said:


> And here we have a guy going on the false premise that you can't get "a low end Specialized or something" for less than $600.


You can get a low end Specialized for much less than $600, but it won't be equipped like the Northrock. A Specialized similarly equipped starts at around $550.


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## erikdfier (Jul 25, 2010)

These are good bikes regardless of the name on the frame. It uses older tech Shimano and Tektro components and they work just fine. For any serious outdoor trail riding, I would upgrade the tubes right away and down the road, I would replace the forks with anything with more than 80mm of travel. Who cares what some people say, because, if it doesn't say Giant, Cannondale, Specialized or Trek on the frame they're gonna rag on it. 

That being said, I have my eye on a new Felt Mountain Bike for my significant other, from a local Bike Shop (The only reason I'm considering it, is because Felt is a local Irvine Bike Company.) I'll stick with the Forge as its going strong after almost 2 yrs and about 300 miles of trail riding.


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## Luigi38 (Jun 24, 2013)

I'm in northern va and I pulled the trigger on a Northrock xc29 the one with 17.5 frame. So I paid around $530 including taxes and had a local shop assembled it. I like the bike, the looks, the size, but there are two things that bothered me the front derailler and the brakes rubbing a little. The front derrailer does not shift correctly, it won't shift to the big sprocket or the small sprocket depending on the adjustment. I went to the shop back for an adjustment and while it shifts correclty on the rack, it does not shift correclty while riding. After the shop couldn't get it right, I went home and I did the adjustment myself, the first time was getting closer to a good shift, my later adjustment messed everything up. Anyone knows a good shop or bike builder in northern Va?


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## NYsurfer (Jul 28, 2013)

I got the Northrock XC-6 (from Costco) because I wanted something new (my last bike was with me for about 16 years......and showed it). I also chose this bike due to price (Im about to close a new house soon and wanted to keep spending down and figured it being from Costco, it would "evolve" as parts broke and I replaced them. I was shocked though when the left pedal completely fell apart after only three days of street riding! Street riding.....the bearings fell out, the whole platform rattlled and now I need new pedals. I had planned on replacing and upgrading parts to improve the bike over time but 3 days....? WOW!

So, can someone recommend, good, flat lightweight replacement pedals?


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## SDCA (Sep 2, 2013)

I'm new to mountain biking and I bought one of these at a swap meet in San Diego for $200. I thought it was ok until I rode a friends Diamond Back 29er with dual suspension, down a rocky road yesterday. I still had fun but mine bounced around a lot and I had to descend much slower than the DB. 

Now I'm debating on selling it for $200 and buying different bike. I'm in the process of reading the pages for beginners and upgrades that can be done on a Cannondale Super V 2000 because I saw one on Craigslist. 

I think I got a good deal for $200.


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## Bruce in SoCal (Apr 21, 2013)

You get what you pay for. However, that doesn't mean you should pay mor more than you will need or reasonably expect to use. This is especially so if you have financial concerns.

If you buy more than you can afford, you will quickly come to resent having done so.


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## SDCA (Sep 2, 2013)

Bruce in SoCal said:


> You get what you pay for. However, that doesn't mean you should pay mor more than you will need or reasonably expect to use. This is especially so if you have financial concerns.
> 
> If you buy more than you can afford, you will quickly come to resent having done so.


Thanks. I still had a great time with the cheap bike. The ride was the only issue. I just got an email from someone who said modifying a Super V would be costly (I saw a V on craigslist). So, I think I'll have fun with the Costco bike while I'll read and learn about the bikes. Maybe I'll get something better next year. (If I ride enough to justify the cost). Thanks


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## shawnt2012 (Jun 2, 2012)

This thread is giving me a headache. Cheers.


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## NYsurfer (Jul 28, 2013)

Just completed another round of upgrades; Hope XC 90mm stem w/10 deg rise brought me closer to the bike & Crank Bros Iodine 11AM bars (680)........the bike is now lighter, more responsive, fits me better and turns quicker.....so worth it !

And overall the Northrock has been put through its paces and proven to be an inexpensive, fun, capable XC/light trail bike


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## dead_dog_canyon (Sep 8, 2010)

SDCA said:


> I'm new to mountain biking...
> 
> Now I'm debating on selling it for $200 and buying different bike...


I would just ride what you have for a while and then you will better understand what want later on.

And.... This might sound a little strange but I think that learning on a less than perfect piece of equipment teaches you to be a better rider. Skill is more important, your bike is less forgiving than a more expensive one.


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## STACK (Mar 23, 2009)

Jenson sent me a bike with the fork on backwards.


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## LUVMYRT (Aug 10, 2012)

Just wanted to say that I have had my Northrock XC6 for3 years now and I have had NO major component failures until now. With over 2100 miles on the bike, I think the bottom bracket is finally giving up the ghost. The only things I have replaced on the XC6 are the pedals (I prefer wider BMX style platform pedals), grips (I added ergo grips), and tires/tubes (after the WTB tires wore out, I replaced them with heavy duty SlimeTubes and Panaracer Fire XC Pro tires). I am looking to replace my rims/hubs and a new fork as the Suntour is just too inadequate. Overall, after tuning and adjusting, the bike has performed admirably for such a "cheap" bike. I hope I can get another 2000 miles out of it.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

LUVMYRT said:


> a new fork as the Suntour is just too inadequate. Overall, after tuning and adjusting, the bike has performed admirably for such a "cheap" bike. I hope I can get another 2000 miles out of it.


Nick at Suntour will give you a Raidon air fork for 200 through the upgrade program he set up for riders with your fork.

http://forums.mtbr.com/beginners-corner/if-you-want-upgrade-your-suntour-fork-830657-31.html


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