# why do my wrists hurt when I'm cycling?



## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

This might be a dumb question and I'm sure that everyone will know exactly why my wrists really hurt when I'm on a ride that lasts more than an hour. I won't even try to explain how I ride/what I ride etc. I have been blogging about my beginner mountain biking so loads of photos on there re how I sit on my bike and what gear it has on it. It wasn't a cheap bike so am puzzled... I'm not much good on it yet. Please someone have a look and let me know what's going on and what I can do about it

photos are on: http://trekgirls.blogspot.com...

thanks guys


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## FireLikeIYA (Mar 15, 2009)

I highly recommend lock on grips if you don't have them already. Regular grips tend to twist on the bars and give you throttle wrist. ODI is one brand that makes lock-on grips and they are made in the USA. I like the Ruffian. They are thin and hard but somehow they are very comfortable. Here is a link: http://www.odigrips.com/ruffianlock-ongrip130mm.aspx


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## slalomnorth65 (Oct 18, 2009)

It's because you don't have ergons. Get some. Now. http://www.ergon-bike.com/us/en/product/gp1


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## mudforlunch (Aug 9, 2004)

Agreed with the lock on grips, but it looks like you're mainly riding fire and gravel roads to begin, so I doubt much twisting is going on with the grips (as opposed to riding rock gardens all day). 

It could be as simple as your forearms aren't used to dealing with the strain of riding bumpy terrain yet, and as a result, your wrists are getting sore. If thats the case, ice them and pop ibuprofen if they hurt, and as you keep riding and building muscle, it should go away. Now, if you've been riding consistently over a month or two and it still hurts, you might wanna go see a dr. if the pain doesn't go away


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

The pic below is a little bit of a concern. You can clearly see how far your wrists are bent although it doesn't look like it is because the controls are not rotated down far enough.

Do you spend a lot of time with your wrists bent like that?

You might also prefer a bar with more 'sweep' (angled back further).
=============================
Also, your saddle height looks low to me (see how bent your knees are in some of these photos? and in one you are seated on the saddle and easily putting your feet on the ground), but that may not necessarily contribute to your wrist pain.

If that is the only way you feel comfortable pedaling on trails that are difficult for you, then so be it, but it is not the most efficient way to pedal and hard on your knees.


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## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

Thanks for this.
Bought some ergonomic grips a while ago. The make is Vavert. They helped but didn't really eliminate the problem. is that the type of thing you are talking about re ergons and lock on grips??


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Some of their grips appear to be the lock-on type and others may not be. If you have to use an allen wrench to install them, then they are 'lock-on' type grips. If they just slipped on and are help in place by friction, then they are not.


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## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

Jeff J you are right on all counts. I am hypermobile so my wrists do bend back very far anyway with little encouragement. Also... I'm ashamed to say that I am still a bit nervous about having my saddle too high because I panic if my feet can't touch the ground when I stop! I am truly a beginner! My husband has an old whyte 46 and I have had a go on that. Must admit I preferred the handle bar position re that but I've just spent a load of money on this bike now so am stuck with it. Can the bars be changed to a more sweeping style?


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## hardwarz (Jun 12, 2009)

jeffj said:


> The pic below is a little bit of a concern. You can clearly see how far your wrists are bent although it doesn't look like it is because the controls are not rotated down far enough.
> 
> Do you spend a lot of time with your wrists bent like that?
> 
> ...


+1

If you have too much pressure on your wrists, then you need to address that. Shorter stem, higher rise bars and better grips (or any combination of them) may fix the problem. You may want to take your bike in and get it fitted for you. I know you've had it for a while, but it may not be the ideal setup for you. Heck, it might be too big of a frame for you causing you to put a lot of weight on your hands/wrists. Do your hands go numb?


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Yes, they can.

There are several to choose from. I'll post some links in a while.


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## Cayenne_Pepa (Dec 18, 2007)

Bike fit and handlebar technique, plays a big role in this. Have it looked at by a reputable fitter. Also, while climbing your fingers don't always need to be "ready" at the brake levers...simply stop pedaling, and you have effectively applied the brakes. Rest your thumbs on top of the grips provides huge relief to wrists too.


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## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

My hands do go numb sometimes if I keep cycling. weirdly, it doesn't seem to happen on grass and it better on dirt/mud. it's much worse on concrete... can only do half an hour on that before I have to stop. The frame is a medium and I am 5'6 inches. It seemed to fit re the specification chart from the makers.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

It's a bit difficult to read the blog because of the wallpaper and the font color but the pics looks great. You had your arm lock in many pic that can be the cause of the pain as your weight is resting on your hand not supported by your core. It'd also help to be off the saddle on the descend a few pics shown you are sitting. You want to have light hands and heavy feet good recipe for a good riding

http://www.leelikesbikes.com/attack-position-success-story.html


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

I started having wrist problems last year, and tried a bunch of grips and a few different handlebars and stems to solve the problem. They all kindof helped, but I think they just distracted from the actual problem which was my technique.

Your arms shouldn't be supporting your weight - they are just for steering and braking. If you are riding on a flat stretch try taking your hands off the bar, or using only the fingertips of your little fingers to steer. You should be able to do that without feeling like you're going to fall forward.

If you are putting too much weight on your hands try moving your saddle back, or tilting the nose up a bit. Either of those will help, but they will shift the weight onto your butt and that can have other consequences, so it requires some trial and error and small changes.

I quite like my ergon grips and some of the other stuff I bought to fix my problem, but I think that what helped me the most was playing with the seat and brake lever positions, and constantly remembering "Heavy Feet, Light Hands" when I'm riding.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

Trekgirl said:


> My hands do go numb sometimes if I keep cycling. weirdly, it doesn't seem to happen on grass and it better on dirt/mud. it's much worse on concrete... can only do half an hour on that before I have to stop. The frame is a medium and I am 5'6 inches. It seemed to fit re the specification chart from the makers.


Sit normally in the saddle...grasp the handlebar....

The wrists must be in a straight line..

If that means you need to adjust your arms than do so...

If with your wrist straight you feel uncomfortable than the bike set-up is out of whack...

Also adjust you brake levers so that in your normal riding position your wrist are straight..

Then when you are riding keep reminding yourself to correct the wrist position.

The fancy grips help remind you to do this, but without a proper bike set-up your wrists are just gonna hurt, and you may get nerve damage.

A quick look at the pictures saddle way to low....can't tell if it is level to just nose down.

And body far to erect...

So raise the saddle and perhaps adjust it forward and back, reset levers..and or grips.


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## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

Such helpful advice. yes, you are right that my technique is non existent. It is so hard to get all that right.... especially as my confidence is still low. My next target is to get out of the seat on descents. Have no clue how I'm going to achieve that (terrified) but my husband keeps saying that is an issue


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

Trekgirl said:


> Such helpful advice. yes, you are right that my technique is non existent. It is so hard to get all that right.... especially as my confidence is still low. My next target is to get out of the seat on descents. Have no clue how I'm going to achieve that (terrified) but my husband keeps saying that is an issue


Stand up on the flats till you get comfortable...then stand up and pedal up-hill....

Then try the downhill stuff.


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## FireLikeIYA (Mar 15, 2009)

jeffj said:


> Some of their grips appear to be the lock-on type and others may not be. If you have to use an allen wrench to install them, then they are 'lock-on' type grips. If they just slipped on and are help in place by friction, then they are not.


If your grips have the clamps on both ends as shown on the picture in this link (https://s.wiggle.co.uk/images/vavert-er-log-a-zoom.jpg)then they are lock on. If they don't have the clamps then I can see the wing style grips actually twisting easier making things worse than standard grips.


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## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

interesting re the vavert grips. Mine only have clamps/locks on one end I think


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## JanBoothius (Apr 15, 2010)

I had the same exact problem. I have big hands, and I thought I was doomed to painful, numb cycling hands for life. Then I bought a pair of Ergon grips. I have since equipped all my bikes with them, and I couldn't be happier.

The GS series are for longer rides, according to Ergon (as opposed to the GX series, which are supposedly more race/short ride oriented).

Link to Ergon GS1 Leichtbau

I have no affiliation to Ergon, just an extremely happy user.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

This one is called the On One Mary handlebar. The reason for the bend closest to the stem (center) is so the resulting sweep won't necessitate a new (longer) stem to get your hands back to the same spot (but angled in a [hopefully] more ergonomically pleasing position):

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/HBOOMA/on-one-mary-handlebar

On One is a UK company and should be easily sourced in a number of plaves. The make it in two different clamp sizes (in addition to a number of colors), so make sure the clamp size matches your own if you decide to try one.

This bar is not a 'riser' like the bar you have, so that may be a concern, but your local shop (or husband) may have some wisdom on how that could affect you.

here are some more examples:

http://www.origin-8.com/?page_id=91&short_code=Space&cl1=HANDLEBARS

These have a 15* sweep which is more than what the pics show, and more than what you currently have, but these are flat (no rise):

http://www.origin-8.com/?page_id=91&short_code=Pro+Pulsion+Pro+Sweep+15&cl1=HANDLEBARS

For many riders, this seems to provide them a position that is more natural to them. Try to envision if you think that would help you or you could end up with a 'paperweight'.


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## JanBoothius (Apr 15, 2010)

Also have a look at the GS2, w/Carbon bar ends... or the GS3 with longer bar ends.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

noone has mentioned gloves. what are you using for gloves?

I first rode with some super cheapy gloves that had a little crappy padding that crumpled up and put pressure on my palms in the wrong places.

later on I bought gloves that only had padding in particular areas in an attempt to relieve pressure on the nerves in your hand. I use them, in addition to a set of Ergon GA1 grips. I move my hands around on the grips a lot, also. I put my thumb on top of the grip pretty regularly and sometimes do other things just to keep my hands moving around. It works well. No soreness even after riding for hours.


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## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

My hubbie says that I am wearing cheap gloves so will sort that


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## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

jeffj said:


> This one is called the On One Mary handlebar. The reason for the bend closest to the stem (center) is so the resulting sweep won't necessitate a new (longer) stem to get your hands back to the same spot (but angled in a [hopefully] more ergonomically pleasing position):
> 
> http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/HBOOMA/on-one-mary-handlebar
> 
> ...


Had a look. Husband wonders if the origin 8 might be useful for me. Does anyone know how much they cost?


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

At 5'6" a Medium could be a tad on the big side for you. A stem length change could help there too.

Keep in mind that bike 'fit' is a somewhat complex issue with several factors and adjustments all playing a role. Your technique also affects how your body will react. I have had carpal tunnel in both wrists so I am familiar with numbness issues.

For proper bike fit, there is an order of operations to the procedure, and it begins with getting the saddle in the right spot with regard to height and it's fore/aft position (and start with it level although it can be tweaked a bit from level to suit you) as it relates to the cranks (the part that the pedals attach to). All the rest of the fit issues play off of that foundation.

That's not to say you can't lower the saddle at times when you feel uncomfortable (terrified), but you should know where to return it to for normal pedaling. 

It sounds like you're still pretty new, so take your time and remember to have fun. If you're too terrified, just walk the section and get back on when you feel comfortable.


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## hardwarz (Jun 12, 2009)

NateHawk said:


> noone has mentioned gloves. what are you using for gloves?


Personally, I assume people use gloves as regularly as helmets. I guess I shouldn't have that assumption.

OP - Gloves should be standard. If you wreck, what is your natural reaction? You put your hands out to catch yourself. Gloves can be the difference between getting back on and riding away or having bloody hands and walking back.


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## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

JanBoothius said:


> Also have a look at the GS2, w/Carbon bar ends... or the GS3 with longer bar ends.


These definitely look good. Again, does anyone know how much they cost? Maybe that would help to move my hand/wrist position completely?


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Trekgirl said:


> Had a look. Husband wonders if the origin 8 might be useful for me. Does anyone know how much they cost?


This one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ORIGIN-8-PRO-PU...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb53c97ca

or the other type:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Origin8-Space-B...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a713a73f


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## ERGON (Nov 9, 2006)

Trekgirl said:


> These definitely look good. Again, does anyone know how much they cost? Maybe that would help to move my hand/wrist position completely?


Take a look at the 'Performance' grips (green packaging). These will suit you best. The GS line is a racing grip, and not super ideal for just general riding unless you are super concerned with keeping the weigh down on the bike. GP1 would be the best bet for every day riding on the road, and dirt.

Our grip sets retail from $30-$110

Jeff K
Ergon USA


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## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

Thanks Ergon, From the pic on your link Dan says that my grips look like a copy of these ergon GP1 grips. Are you familiar with the varvert? Do you think your grips are radically better than what I've already got?


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Trekgirl said:


> My hubbie says that I am wearing cheap gloves so will sort that





Trekgirl said:


> Had a look. Husband wonders if the origin 8 might be useful for me. Does anyone know how much they cost?


Just a warning, that this can be a slippery slope of spendiness. (trust me )

I bought two sets of ergon grips - and I like both of them - but I still had wrist pain. I bought a Carnegie bar (a lot like the Origin 8) - and I also really like it - but I still had wrist pain. I bought a bunch of other stuff from the bargain bin hoping that it might help - but I still had wrist pain.

Before you start spending, go for a ride or two where all of your focus is on keeping your hands light, and your wrists straight. If pavement is where you're having the most pain, then just ride on pavement. Ride at a comfortable pace, take turns, play with the brakes, and really pay attention to how you're using your hands, wrists and elbows. "Light Hands - Heavy Feet" is the goal.

Also, it can take a long time for the thumb/wrist to heal, so any changes you make may take awhile to have a real effect. (I've found that new grips and handlebars can feel super comfy right out of the box, only to have the pain return within a ride or two)


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## IAmHolland (Jul 8, 2010)

mimi1885 said:


> http://www.leelikesbikes.com/attack-position-success-story.html


Are you supposed to ride like that all the time? I ride Arastradero....I can't imagine doing the attack position there. There's nothing to attack. It's got hills and all, but tiny little things that are over in a few seconds...descend to climb again for excercise. If people should do it all the time, then I should work on it, it just takes work to get into position, and Arastradero is really casual. I'm not a racer, so speed is not of the utmost importance.

OP, do you normally have wrist pains? I get pains from work, and it's tough (I need to wear a brace now and then). I find when I hold the end of bars, it's better because there is no big angle change from the hand to the arm. When I grab the grips, there's an angle unless I go into attack or I'm generally out of the seat.


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## ERGON (Nov 9, 2006)

Trekgirl said:


> Thanks Ergon, From the pic on your link Dan says that my grips look like a copy of these ergon GP1 grips. Are you familiar with the varvert? Do you think your grips are radically better than what I've already got?


Better? Yes. Why? Because we have many Worldwide patents on the key elements that make these grips work. Most noted are the following....

1. The internal skeleton of the grip. This is key to how the grip can flex while under riding pressure. This design is also worked into the clamping system (see #3 below)

2. The grip shape...which was a 5 year design process. We hold the patent on the key shapes needed on the grip to make it function perfectly.....ie: wing shape, grip length, grip width, overall grip shaping, etc.

3. Lock-on system. You'll notice a lot of the Ergon knock offs....and there are a TON out there. These 'knock offs' don't have a locking clamp...among many other things. All our grips lock in place. A lot of force is put on the grip while riding. Not having it lock onto the bar will result in slipping and lack of rider wrist/hand support. This is often seen with our competitors.

Jeff K
Ergon USA


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## Jeff in Bend (Jun 5, 2010)

Trekgirl, 
New grips, gloves, bars etc. might help a little but they are just going to mask the most likely problem. Your core isn't strong enough to hold yourself up and you're putting to much weight on the bars using them as an upper body support device. Get Strong ( bikejames.com) How long is your stem on your bike now?

Standing while descending :thumbsup: Your hubbies correct on that advice.
Lower your seat while going down hill or better yet get a dropper seat post.
Read Lee McCormack's book (2nd edition is better), or better yet take a skills camp from BetterRide.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

IAmHolland said:


> Are you supposed to ride like that all the time? I ride Arastradero....I can't imagine doing the attack position there. There's nothing to attack. It's got hills and all, but tiny little things that are over in a few seconds...descend to climb again for excercise. If people should do it all the time, then I should work on it, it just takes work to get into position, and Arastradero is really casual. I'm not a racer, so speed is not of the utmost importance.
> 
> OP, do you normally have wrist pains? I get pains from work, and it's tough (I need to wear a brace now and then). I find when I hold the end of bars, it's better because there is no big angle change from the hand to the arm. When I grab the grips, there's an angle unless I go into attack or I'm generally out of the seat.


Everytime I'm out of the saddle I try to be in an attack position staying low elbows/knee slightly bend, eyes forward shoulder and hip up, light on the handlebar and put my weight at the lowest contact point the pedal. This way it allows me to move fore/aft as well as side to side. It's a good idea to practice it because if you don't most likely you'd stay high on the bike when you ride in the rougher trail.

You want to move your weight around when you corner, climb, descend, brake and going over stuffs, staying stiff and static is not going to help much. I practice on the smoother trail I exaggerate my body positions til I get used to it. It will come in handy when you ride other trails.:thumbsup:

Trekgirl, you may want to check the angle of your brake lever too if the trails you are riding are mostly flat it's ok to point more downward but if you ride steeper trail(descend) it better to point it more forward. On the steep descend having the levers pointing too far downward can certainly caused pain in your wrists and forearms.


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## bigfruits (Mar 21, 2011)

before you spend any money on new gear to solve the problem, follow newfangled's advice. i think you will be surprised.


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## tymelero (Jun 15, 2006)

Jeff in Bend said:


> Trekgirl,
> New grips, gloves, bars etc. might help a little but they are just going to mask the most likely problem. Your core isn't strong enough to hold yourself up and you're putting to much weight on the bars using them as an upper body support device. Get Strong ( bikejames.com) How long is your stem on your bike now?
> 
> Standing while descending :thumbsup: Your hubbies correct on that advice.
> ...


+1 on core strength. With a stronger midsection and lower back your body will be able to support your weight better and take some pressure off your hands.:thumbsup:


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

jeffj said:


> The pic below is a little bit of a concern. You can clearly see how far your wrists are bent although it doesn't look like it is because the controls are not rotated down far enough.
> 
> Do you spend a lot of time with your wrists bent like that?


+ 1. I'm a newb myself, but those pix look like your wrists are bent the same way mine were when I first started. Not only hurt--one of my hands went numb for about 3 weeks. I've learned to keep my weight off the bars as much as possible and have things set up so I can keep my forearms/wrists pretty much in line when riding.


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

jeffscott said:


> Sit normally in the saddle...grasp the handlebar....
> 
> The wrists must be in a straight line..
> 
> ...


I have to bump this advice because it is absoutely dead on. As jeffj pointed out, your wrists are bent at a terrible angle which is almost certainly causing your wrist issues; but I have to differ in opinion on what the solution is. Jeffj says new bars, but I think jeffscott's advice is exactly what you need to address. Loosen your brake fixing bolts and position your levers more downward, I would start at a 45 degree angle downward and see how that feels.

Every time you hit a bump while your wrists are bent you transfer the impact into bending the wrists more. But when your wrists are a nice straight line from your arms then impacts get transfered straight up your arms instead of bending your wrists causing pain. Hope that made sense. It's a free and easy fix. While you're at it, position the brake levers so that when you pull them, you are pulling with your pointer finger right in the bend at the end of the lever without having to move your hand on the grip. It's called "one finger" braking; you can search for it and I'm sure you can find better descriptions of how to set it up. You can also set up two finger braking if you feel more comfortable with two fingers on the brakes but I would suggest not using more than 2 fingers to brake.


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## IAmHolland (Jul 8, 2010)

Yeah, that advice is sound. Looking at your riding position, you look a bit too upright to me. From the looks of it, the problem stems from the saddle height being too low. Not only are you not getting enough power, but it also puts your handlebars too high, and you're riding it like a comfort bike. There's nothing wrong with that....on pavement.

If you raise the saddle to a more proper height, the other parts will line up. Start with the saddle, your wrist positions will change with that, significantly. The bike (ETT) also looks a tad small to me. What's good is that you are not locking out your arms.










This looks better, to me, and is more like my position....not saying I'm correct neither.


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## Bilirubin (Mar 6, 2010)

Yes your leg should be nearly fully extended when you have the pedal all the way down, and the knee should be over the foot at the 9 o'clock position. I also think your saddle is too close to the bars given your knee positions. Get the saddle back some, or extend the stem, but whatever, get that bike fitted to you by a shop that knows what they are doing.


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## rockcrusher (Aug 28, 2003)

First I can't believe that no one has mentioned this yet but I would suggest find a bike shop that offers a bike fit. That is something along the lines of http://www.serotta.com/sizing-fit/ which is a professional fitting process. It should cost somewhere along the line of $100-200 USD but most shops will work with you to get the correct saddle, stem, bar etc to get you fitted properly.

Once you are fitted properly, and yes that will mean raising your saddle to the proper height, you can then address any problem you may have knowing that they stem not from poor fit but from component choice.

Secondly I would look at the ergon guidelines for setting up your grips as they are fairly specific about how your hand rests on them, essentially preventing you from rotating downwards which can greatly exacerbate hand and wrist pain.

Finally, if all else fails you might want to consider that you are a new cyclist and just like a saddle it takes time to get used to the pressures of cycling. Add a wrist strengthening workout routine to your life at a gym or with barbels and just get more bike time.

As a multiple decade mountain biker I found the transfer to a higher bend bar, rotated correctly for my hand and wrist architecture provided me with the best combination of performance and comfort for my style and location of mountain biking. I used the ergon grips to limited success but the transfer to a On-One Mary bar made a huge difference enough that grip selection has been completely taken out of the equation.

As a final though, if your hands are small, a large diameter grip can be detrimental requiring more strength to hold on to than a smaller diameter grip. Try a set of small diameter grips.


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## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

Thanks for all your advice guys. Much of it is like a foreign language to me but I have just read it all out to Dan my husband who was nodding wisely. he said that we will try all of it out (non cost options first me thinks). Weird about comments about my core as I do loads of core strengthening stuff at the gym.. pilates and body combat specifically. I also do RPM which is a static cycling class so kind of sit on the bike at the correct height when it isn't moving... just the movement aspect I find a bit confidence knocking. i only learnt to ride a bike at all two years ago so have not had all those years of bike skill development. Any extra advice very welcome if anyone has any other thoughts...


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## 1362 (Sep 12, 2010)

wrist pain and wrist numbness are 2 different items. No doctor so just think this out. An injury pain would take long time to go away. Numbness stops shortly after you stop biking? If yes, Numbness is pressure on nerve, meaning to much weight at wrong angle. Riding for an hour and you have that...that is issue, nerves. Gel hand pads, gel grips etc all good, but need fix your angles to relieve those pressure points. The ulnar nerve is elbow positioning and affects ring and pinky fingers, some of the palm. The median nerves in wrist cover rest, its basically an over use similiar to carpel tunnel. To much pressure.
Raise your seat to use all your leg movement, raise or lower your handlebars however you need to get that drastic wrist bend out.


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## 1362 (Sep 12, 2010)

I found this on web:

Prevention 
You can overcome or prevent overuse injuries altogether by making some adjustment to your equipment and behavior. Adjusting the handlebars, the seat, and the pedals to your fit is the key to preventing most overuse injuries. Adjust the bike so you sit in a more upright position, taking the weight and pressure off your hands and wrists. Take a rest during long rides and change your hand position on the handlebars often. Shift your weight from the center of your palms to the outside edge of your palms as often as possible. Wear padded gloves and add handlebar padding to your bike to help protect your hands from injury. The padding absorbs the shocks and jolts from the road, limiting the stress transmitted to your hands. Your hands will also be able to handle the stress from the roads much better if you complete a short session of hand and wrist stretches before hitting the road.


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## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

Thanks for this. it does make sense. I really did try to raise my seat but it was all a disaster (see my blog for the full story http://trekgirls.blogspot.com/). Tried the core stability aspect this week and it really seemed to help. Your tip re readjusting my wrist angle links to this. Check out my pics on blog to see my new riding position. 
Will try some other aspects out (my confidence permitting) and update on here.


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## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

*update on my wrists*

thought I would update you all on my wrists!

Unwittingly, I let my husband borrow my bike (he the same size as me roughly) because his Whyte 46 was broken.

He took it out loads with his friends and no doubt did hardcore stuff on it... loving riding a hardtail as a change from a full suspension. When I finally saw it again it was v muddy but also he had modified it! he had put wide handle bars on it (see my blog for pics  [email protected])

I can't tell you what a difference the bars have made... they apparently are just a set he transferred from an old bike he found but they make me feel so much more secure on the bike and I actually stood up on it for the first time at the weekend. My wrists as really much more comfortable too so they don't hurt as much. I still have the seat quite low for my leg length but I think I will soon be confident enough to raise it

Another of your recommendation ticked off the list.guys


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## DECIM8 (Jul 13, 2011)

Get that seat in the right position! I just went through this with my wife. She complained because her butt and wrists hurt and it is too hard to pedal sometimes. She was freaked out that she couldn't touch the ground while seated and kept her seat too low. She wanted to stay in the seat, lean the bike and stretch her hip to reach the ground when she stopped. I forced her to put the seat in the correct position and explained that when she stops, she needs to get off the seat, slide forward (in front of the seat) and stand. She is much more comfortable riding now and can pedal harder and longer. She is quickly getting used to sitting higher and gaining confidence. 

How I had her set her seat was to sit while I held the bike up and move the seat up so that her leg was straight with her HEEL on the center of the pedal at its lowest position. That way the leg is slightly bent with the foot on the pedal correctly. We made some small adjustments after that and marked the seat post. 

She rides with me much more often now and doesn't have to walk the bike up hills nearly as much as she used to. This tells me the new seat position is a winner.


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## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

You are absolutely right on all fronts...

I know that I am an utter failure because I don't have the seat high enough and I know this limits me so much.

I sit on a seat which is the correct height at the gym in my RPM static cycling class but it is entirely different when on a moving bike! 

Believe me my husband and I have nearly divorced over it when he tried to get me to stand. push off and then sit on the raised seat. I was in tears and he was so angry we had to go home.We have agreed that I will just do it my way for the time being.. to save our marriage.

It is like jumping off of a cliff to me. That is why 'finally standing while I am going along' is such a big step for me (although Dan says I don't really look like I'm standing up in my picture on the blog). I have talked to other girls and they also see this as a major step.

I think with the new handle bars I might manage it some time soon.

Thankfully your wife seems to have plucked up the courage already and good for her!


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

Trekgirl said:


> You are absolutely right on all fronts...
> 
> I know that I am an utter failure because I don't have the seat high enough and I know this limits me so much.
> ...
> ...


First, you are hardly a failure because you are riding with your seat low. You're riding aren't you?

Raising your saddle doesn't have to be like jumping off a cliff. You don't have to raise your saddle height all at once. The best way down a cliff is rarely jumping, so find the staircase to proper seat height instead of jumping all in. May I suggest raising it a centimeter on your next ride? Then in two or three rides, raise it another centimeter. Before you know it, you'll have your seat at the proper position and you will have grown more comfortable.

Also, never be afraid to stop and put your saddle down when you come to something you aren't comfortable riding. When you're back onto trail you know you can ride put it back up where it was.

Standing up on the bike is a huge step, one that will make you a much better rider as you get comfortable with it. My wife is really kicking ass now that she's more comfortable with that.


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## bbrad (Aug 25, 2011)

I just started getting the sore writs recently when I started riding longer. I might try raising the handle bars in hopes of relieving some weight on my wrists.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

A lot of mountain bikers put their saddles way too high. I think it's a combination of poor pedaling form, machismo, and overreaction to dropping the saddle for technical portions.

If your saddle height matches what you'd use in the gym, and the saddle height you use in the gym is correct, it's still correct on a real bike. I'd still suggest experimenting some, as zebra suggests. But don't buy into the idea that higher is always better - with too much leg extension, you'll stop delivering power effectively. More and you'll start dipping your hips to reach the pedals at the bottom of their rotation, which will give you back pain and maybe some knee stuff. The bike needs to fit you, not your husband's idea of what your cycling form should look like.

It's great that you're getting comfortable out of the saddle. The position your hips naturally go to when you're riding with your butt just off the saddle is actually a pretty good guide for finding a good fore/aft position for the saddle, at least once it's at a good height. IMO, if someone moves drastically forward or back when she gets off the saddle, the saddle's in the wrong place. This doesn't apply if you're getting off the saddle in order to move your weight forward or back for a steep piece of a descent or climb, but if you're getting off the saddle in order to be in a balanced neutral position to negotiate an obstacle, it's pretty good.

The Late, Great Sheldon Brown on finding saddle position by feel...

A Comfortable Saddle


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## DECIM8 (Jul 13, 2011)

I didn't know this was such an issue and I am sorry to hear that it is. My intention wasn't to sound harsh. You are definitely not a failure and I hope that wasn't the impression I gave. I see how much better proper fit and technique has made riding for my wife and I because she enjoys riding more and I get to have her with me more often. Everyone has to learn to ride and it takes time, practice and patience. Nobody just hops on a bike and rides like a pro from the start. 

Zebrahum has some great advice on taking it in steps. 

If its a fear of heights/falling you might get some pads to bulster your confidence. My wife has a fear of heights, she can barely stand on a chair (which probably led to her issues with seat height). She wore my pads while building her confidence and still wears them sometimes. It might be something that you could try to give you that extra bit of confidence.


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## bbrad (Aug 25, 2011)

Do gloves play a large role in this you this? Or are they mostly for grip rather than extra pad?


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## Loraura (Apr 25, 2011)

Lots of good advice, but before I changed anything else, I would sit on the bike with my hands on the bars and my wrists neutral (not bent). I would then move the brake/shifter mechanism to line up with your hands if you just oint your fingers straight out. The brakes/shifters should come to you, you should not be bending your wrists to manage the brakes and shifting.

Your husband changing the bars may have accidentally helped this by changing the angle of the brakes when they were put on the new bar. Look at it again, and adjust them further if needed to allow you to shift and brake with no bend in your wrists.


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## Starbuck50 (Sep 24, 2009)

I'm the same height as you and have a lrg frame bike. I had it properly fitted when I bought it and I love it. I can't touch the ground at all. I am 2 years new to this sport and LOVE it! I do a friendly race series on Wed nights and am doing my first point to point in October (can't wait) 

Just do what makes you comfortable. Once the fear factor dissapears then you can set things up "properly" Get a pair of gel gloves or ory's grips and relax your grip on the bars. Readjust your grip when you're on flats and just try to have fun!


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## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

I probably do need new gloves as mine as so old they have a hole in and Dan said they were cheap in the first place. I will look for some gel gloves. He took my ergonomic grips off of the bike and put his BMX grips on it. I told him I want the ergo ones back so that will be good.

Will report back... maybe will have raised my seat a little by then. Good idea re incremental raises rather than full on one step raise.


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## miatagal96 (Jul 5, 2005)

You're not a failure--you're on your bike!!

The most important thing is that you have fun. The more fun you have, the more you will ride, the stronger you will get, the more confident you will get, the more fun riding will be, so you'll ride more etc., etc.

If you need to, take small steps that you are comfortable with. Don't make any huge adjustments to saddle height all at once. You will give up some pedalling efficiency if your saddle is low, but if the confidence you gain more than compensates, what's the problem?

I went through quite a number of 'feeling like a failure' episodes early in my mtb career. It still happens, but rarely. I felt like I progressed slowly (especially compared to the guys), but now I'm right in the pack with the guys (unless I ride with racer dudes which makes me feel like a failure until I remind myself that they are racer dudes).


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## Trekgirl (Apr 5, 2011)

Thanks for this affirming post! You are so right about feeling like you progress very slowly... I really do.

I had a set back when our friend had a serious mountain biking accident earlier in the summer. I saw it happen and it really knocked my confidence I think. At the time I didn't know if I would get back on a bike but I have, albeit progressing v slowly

Thanks again everyone on this forum for the encouragement. I do take account of your advice and wise words


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## Peter Leo (Aug 23, 2011)

Wrist problems can be caused by riding the wrong size bike and you end up placing the saddle higher then the handlebars. It could also could be caused by having the saddle too low in the front and causing her to keep pressure on her wrists to stay seated. You should change to riser handlebars or a higher stem.


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## HighLife420 (Apr 5, 2011)

A long time ago when i first started trail riding, i would noticed that my hands and wrists would hurt after a while. Gloves helped but didnt solve the issue. A friend of mine mentioned something that i thought was stupid....but really helped a lot. Simply said......"relax your grip" ...now this may not solve your problem, sounds like a fit issue...but its good advice. Dont lock your wrists up when you hit bumpy sections, allow them to just flow up and down nicely. I still catch myself using a death grip on techy sections of trail.


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## ninjaface1 (Aug 30, 2011)

I agree with relaxing your grip (when safe to do). Helps alot


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