# Is it realistic to convert a hybrid to a cyclocross/ gravel bike?



## Fuzzwardo (Oct 16, 2013)

I was playing on Youtube and came across a video of a guy doing a hybrid to cyclocross conversion on a Trek 700. I have a 1999? Trek 7500 sitting in the garage that needs a little updating. Is this even worth doing? I would want to do this on a budget. I would probably mainly be using it as a gravel bike, not as a racer or anything crazy. Something to fill the gap between my mountain bike and road bike and to build my knowledge of bike maintenance/ repair.

I should add that adding drop bars and going up to a 700cx 40 or 45 tire is the start of where I was thinkin.

What are your thoughts?


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## z1r (Apr 17, 2014)

Most hybrid bike shave a slacker Geometry than a Cross bike does. 

Some will like that, some won't.

Skinny tires and drop bars are the easy part. You might need a new stem to go with the bars you choose. Most older MTB stems were 25.4 clamp for straight bars whereas road bars are 26.0mm. Only other thing off the top of my head is shifters and brake levers that will work with the existing brakes.

Way back in around 1995 I found a Spezialized Stump Jumper frame in the neighbor's trash bin. It was in great mechanical shape but the paint was rough. the frame was about one size larger than I would normally ride as an MTB. So, I put drop bars, bar-cons, and brake levers on it and rode it as my commuter for the next two years. I rode it into the hills around San Francisco, from Golden Gate Park to Sausalito, up Mt. Tam and had a blast.

The more relaxed geometry might make longer rides, especially gravel, a little more comfortable?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Possible? Sure. Ideal? Meh.

Biggest cash suck will be changing the levers over from flat bar controls to drop bar controls. I'd recommend Gevenalle/Retroshift levers.

Definitely will need to mess around with stems to get a decent fit out of the bike.


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## Fuzzwardo (Oct 16, 2013)

Is there a better platform to start with? An older steel frame road bike with wide clearances perhaps? At this time, buying a new bike is out of the question, unless I can find something cheap on Craigslist to mess with.


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## blundar (Jan 18, 2013)

I rode a modified hybrid bike for many many many years (around 10 years I think) as my first rigid frame MTB bike. Now-a-days it would be considered a cyclocross or gravel grinder bike. Not all cyclocross bikes have drop bars. I would not change that part of it because the gains would be very minimal at a more considerable expense.

The biggest differences between a cyclocross and a hybrid bike are the seat (hybrid seat is normally super cushy gel and often with springs), tires (cyclocross typically have knobbier profile), stem, and pedals.

Your biggest gain by far is from changing over to the larger volume and much more aggressive tread pattern knobby tires that cyclocross bikes often use. These tires are also made to be used at lower tire pressures (around 30 psi) for better off road grip, and to be able to absorb trail chatter.

A descent set of pedals and an MTB seat are the next thing and very easy to replace. I would also get rid of the adjustable stem and the suspension seat post.


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## big_papa_nuts (Mar 29, 2010)

Changing to drop bars is a can of worms for for shifter/brakes compatibility and bike fit reasons. But putting on a rigid fork, some cross wheels (given disc brakes and proper clearance), and some multi position bars (likes Jones H-bars) or even just some bar ends will make a nice gravel mutt.


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## ljsmith (Oct 26, 2007)

If you aren't a competitive racer then it would make a fun bike. The only issue is cost. As said above, dual control shifters are very expensive, so it makes a project like this cost prohibitive. Unless you are doing single speed, or using friction shifters or something along those lines. Although Microshift makes some pretty cheap dual control shifters so that might be an option. You probably would be better off watching craigslist for a cyclocross bike to pop up.


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## Fuzzwardo (Oct 16, 2013)

I never considered different styles of bars. Not necessarily the Jones H - bars but other styles may make a comfortable ride and solve the shifter/brake lever problem.


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## blundar (Jan 18, 2013)

Fuzzwardo said:


> I never considered different styles of bars. Not necessarily the Jones H - bars but other styles may make a comfortable ride and solve the shifter/brake lever problem.


Here is a link that show the specs for that bike that I found on bikepedia:
1999 Trek 7500 - BikePedia

New tires (good set of cyclocross tires can be a bit pricey), seatpost, seat, pedals, stem, and maybe a different style bar. That will probably end up costing more than $250 total and you will end up with a bunch of spare parts leftover. That is very close to what the bike is worth.

After modifying and enjoying my hybrid bike for many years, I actually ended up selling it for almost the same price as what I bought it for ($250). I sold it at a bike shop where they buy and sell used bikes, right next to a university where hybrids are very popular for commuting. This is the best place to sell a bike like this. You can then buy a cyclocross bike that is more suitable for the task with that money without the compromises and head aches associated with the conversion.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

It's maybe not ideal, but if you have a hybrid bIke already, then it can be doable.
I bought a Trek PDX for a song from a guy leaving an academic program that I was just beginning. It was essentially stock, but I have a decent commute and wanted a 'road' bike. It was too cheap to pass up and I like disc brakes.
With the help of craigslist I added drop bars and some older Ultegra brifters, as well as a used set of Avid BB5 road calipers. The PDX comes with disc brakes.
I sprang for new Performance 'Forte' 700x35 Metro tires and some decent bar tape, and a slightly shorter stem.

The front shifting is wonky with what is essentially a mountain FD and road shifters, but I can make 2 of the 3 rings work. It doesn't matter to me, I never shift off the 42T big ring. It's pretty small for a road bike big ring. I pretty much rely on the 12-28 9 sp cassette. 

Overall it's a pretty great ride for a bike that I've got like $200 bucks into. the disc brakes and huge tire clearance makes it nice to put fat tires on.


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## Fuzzwardo (Oct 16, 2013)

Does anyone run the Bullhorn bars? I saw some examples on a google search that looked like they could be what I am after.


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## heybrady (May 31, 2009)

You can do it on the cheap with some patience. Drop bars, shifters, stem, tires are what you prob need. Shifters are the most $$$ but eBay has some 8 speed sora usually in the $50-75 range. Bars/stem are cheap used. Tires can be had at nashbar cheap.


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## asphalt_jesus (Aug 13, 2010)

You will blow a bunch of money and time.

Do your road wheels fit on the flat bar bike? That's as far as I'd go.

I sold my road bike and use a cross bike with two sets of wheels. One road, one dirt.


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

i did this to my specialized sirrus hybrid. I used cheap 3x8 shimano brifters, old road bars, short stem, but also had to get new cables and bar tape. Totaled about $200


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Fuzzwardo said:


> Does anyone run the Bullhorn bars? I saw some examples on a google search that looked like they could be what I am after.


if the bike fits you now with the flat/riser bars that are on it, it will probably be waaaay too long for you when you put drop bars, bullhorns, moustache bars, etc on it. bars like that are designed to be used on a frame with a shorter top tube than that of a frame made for flat bars. the hand position on a drop bar is a few inches forward of your current position, stretching you out in a stance that will most likely hurt your back. you might be able to pull it off is if the frame is a little small for you and you use a short-reach, high rise stem.

drop-bar shifters can be expensive and cause issues with brake and derailleur compatibility, as noted above. might be a money pit. if you are on a budget, not a good idea.

is there a bike co-op or shop that sells used gear near you? might be worth checking out. my suggestion is to source a rigid fork and put some more aggressive bars (flat bars with bar ends or some sort of "alt bar") on it, maybe some stronger wheels. do a search for "alt bars" on this forum.


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## blundar (Jan 18, 2013)

Sell the bike you now have for around $200-ish at a bike shop near a university close to you. Then you buy a new cyclocross bike from BikesDirect.com:

Disc Brake cyclocross Bikes - Gravity Liberty cxd

These go for around $500 and already have a carbon fork and disc brakes. You will not be anywhere near that price and frame geometry if you try to modify your existing bike.

Bikes Direct also have a bunch of other cyclocross bikes to choose from. I would not pick a bike with canti brakes and chromoly fork. That would be a giant step backwards.

Cyclocross and Gravel Bicycles from bikesdirect.com


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## BlowtorchBob (Jan 8, 2015)

Also,


Keep in mind a lot of the old hybrids 80's-90's were just cross bike geo's with flat bars. That and a little more tire clearance and rack options.

The hybrid was not its own until the slack top tube came into effect and the large saddle and funky shock fork did they become what they are. 


I wold say screw it and buy yourself an old "hybrid" and slap some drop bars like the on one midge or Soma junebug and rock some dirt roads!


You can also save money and keep the parts you have and install Paul thumbies for the DT shifters. By doing this you can keep the DT shifter or purchase one (really cheap) and slap that on the bar. Then you can purchase some cheap brake levers like the Cane Creek SCR-5.


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## BlowtorchBob (Jan 8, 2015)

Example:

But with gears tho!:thumbsup:


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## Fuzzwardo (Oct 16, 2013)

Blowtorchbob, that pic is more or less what I had envisioned. The Specialized pictured is actually quite similar to the frame on my 99 Trek 7500.


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## MudSnow (Jun 30, 2013)

This video?





I just picked up a mint condition Univega Via to convert. Staying with flatbars and Ergon grips.


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## Fuzzwardo (Oct 16, 2013)

Yes, that is the video. I'm not sure if I will go that route or not. Depends on how bored I get this summer.


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## big_papa_nuts (Mar 29, 2010)

MudSnow said:


> This video?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I don't mean to slag on that guy to hard but this is the perfect example of why information you find on the internet can be dangerous. No mention given to how this conversion will effect fit or handling, sub par maintenance techniques demonstrated, and proliferation of misinformation. Not to mention it seems like he is dumping a bunch of money into a mutt when a used or "factory direct" CX bike could likely be had for roughly the same budget.

Sure, if your bored, have some extra parts, and want to learn a few things go ahead, but it may be best, as with any major project, to consult some reliable/qualified sources before you start.


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## MudSnow (Jun 30, 2013)

Yes, basic cyclocross bikes can be had for around $500, but I am just throwing some hand-me-down parts and a new set of tires onto a very nice chromoly frame. It has very similar geometry to the Giant Roam but weighs three pounds less.


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## big_papa_nuts (Mar 29, 2010)

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to stop anyone tinkering. Doing, IMO, is the best way to learn. More just trying to give warning to help people wasting time and money to end up with a bike that doesn't fit, or handles like crap. I will also admit that I get annoyed by the counter productive information some people will post on the internet just because they can, even if ignorant to the fact.

I will say that I have done this conversion (both ways actually) many times and if done right the results can be very good. In fact my favorite drop bar bike is a women's MTB with Cowbell bars, Troll fork, and a 410 Thomson post I built for a co-worker.


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## blundar (Jan 18, 2013)

big_papa_nuts said:


> Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to stop anyone tinkering. Doing, IMO, is the best way to learn. More just trying to give warning to help people wasting time and money to end up with a bike that doesn't fit, or handles like crap. I will also admit that I get annoyed by the counter productive information some people will post on the internet just because they can, even if ignorant to the fact.
> 
> I will say that I have done this conversion (both ways actually) many times and if done right the results can be very good. In fact my favorite drop bar bike is a women's MTB with Cowbell bars, Troll fork, and a 410 Thomson post I built for a co-worker.


That is what I am trying to say...

You are starting out with a bike that is worth around $200 - $250. Then you are swapping a ton of components and adding labor (tires, seatpost, seat, pedals, stem, drop bars, and shifters for the drop bars) that is worth more than what the whole bike is worth. And you will still end up with compromises in geometry, bike fit, and some components not specifically designed for this type of bike.

Sell the bike, and buy a more suitable one that is specifically designed for cyclocross. You can even upgrade for around $200 - $300 extra and end up with hydraulic disc brakes and a carbon fork.


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## MudSnow (Jun 30, 2013)

I got some flat bars and a low rise stem for $20. The bike came with some good Continental 700x40 tires. Or I could say I bought some Continental tires and they came with a free bike.


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## blundar (Jan 18, 2013)

MudSnow said:


> I got some flat bars and a low rise stem for $20. The bike came with some good Continental 700x40 tires. Or I could say I bought some Continental tires and they came with a free bike.


If you stay with flat bars and low rise stem along with the tires you already have, then it would make sense to add an MTB seat and maybe some better pedals.

But if you were to also do the drop bar along with the new shifters, cables, brakes, and bar tape associated with the conversion, then it would just start getting silly in my opinion.


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## wjphillips (Oct 13, 2008)

I found a diamondback haanjo (flat bar version) at a pawn shop for $150. I converted it to a drop bar. The bike is awesome!


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

From an Avanti Blade 1.0









To an Avanti Blade SS CX


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## dompedro3 (Jan 26, 2004)

Absolutely possible. A few years ago there was a seller on ebay blowing out old Rocky mountain hybrid frames with disc mounts. I bought a RC10 disc for $30 shipped. It's geometry was almost exactly the same as the solo cx (head tube angle was 1/2 degree slacker) and bottom bracket was a few mm higher.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

ljsmith said:


> If you aren't a competitive racer then it would make a fun bike. The only issue is cost. As said above, dual control shifters are very expensive, so it makes a project like this cost prohibitive. Unless you are doing single speed, or using friction shifters or something along those lines. Although Microshift makes some pretty cheap dual control shifters so that might be an option. You probably would be better off watching craigslist for a cyclocross bike to pop up.


That's why God created ebay! Used Tiagra and 105 are pretty cheap on eBay.


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

Zombie thread resurrection alert...

Yes, you can convert a hybrid to a gravel bike. Not to be confused with a cyclocross bike, some gravel bikes have angles more upright like a hybrid, whereas some as a bit more aggressive and race like a cyclocross bike. If you want a cyclocross bike, then a conversion will probably give you enough of a taste to want more but for a gravel bike, why the hell not.

Here's one fresh from a shake down ride.









Okay, some might question the Ultegra cranks (which hide a Hope BB) and the Thomson kit on a converted hybrid. The only thing I bought for this project were the tyres and cranks (both eBay bargain), new brakes, bar tape, chain and some cable outer. Everything else I had or could take off another bike that wasn't getting used. I've been building bikes for 25 years so you tend to accumulate some bits.

The frame/fork itself was a hard-rubbish find while walking the dog. Complete bike except for seat post and saddle.

The frame was generally ratty, so a bit of time with paint stripper fixed that. I'm restoring a car and currently painting panels, so the frame and fork got hung up and got some spray gun attention with etch primer, primer, base colour and clear. Chrysler Alpine White, for what it's worth. So making the frame pretty wasn't a big task when I was already mixing paint. Not evident in the photo is a couple of metallic stripes I put on the front of the head tube just to try out striping with fine line tapes.

So 2x9 gearing using 50/34 Ultegra cranks with 11-32 SRAM cassette, XT rear derailleur, 105 front, 105 shifters. Brake are Shimano CX50s. Wheels are Shimano R550s shod with WTB Raddler 700x40c (could maybe squeeze a 45c in). Salsa Woodchippers, Thomson stem and post, Flite saddle.

A lot of fire roads around here (NSW, Australia) have been groomed to improve access since the fires last summer. Practically dirt motorways, hard packed with no ruts or rock gardens. Bike went well, smooth and fast and lots of fun.

So yep, a hybrid can make a fun gravel bike. I think I have proven the cost issue mentioned here though - if I didn't have 80% of the parts to hand, it would have been cost prohibitive as well as time consuming making the frame into "not a dog".

If I was to improve anything, it would be getting hold of a threadless 1" fork with canti posts to get rid of the quill converter. Or I could track down a 1" 31.8 stem but I like the Thomson that's on there now.

Ride on!

Grumps


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## kenjihara (Mar 7, 2006)

Following

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