# Pedal grease help



## the dane01 (Sep 19, 2015)

What type of grease do i use on the inside of the pedal shaft to repack? And where the pedal screws onto the crank? I have car grease. Pedals are Shimano Saint PD-MX80 Flat Pedals. Reason being the right pedal feels stiff. Has been in shed for almost 2 years. Cheers

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## Procter (Feb 3, 2012)

For the threads, car grease is totally fine.

For the bearings, car grease won't be a bad grease, its probably less viscous than a typical bike grease, so there will be more drag. But it will probably be slightly more waterproof. 

Phil's waterproof grease for ball and roller bearings would be my first choice.


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## driver bob (Oct 12, 2005)

Phil Woods or Park Tools:

Phil Wood & Co.

https://www.parktool.com/product/high-performance-grease-hpg-1


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## the dane01 (Sep 19, 2015)

Cheers guys for that! Watched a few videos on YouTube and someone said don't use normal car grease on any thing aluminium. Anyway of the few videos I watched last night it's a simple pull the axle out of the pedal, repack tighten. But the last video said to open the bearing casings and re grease all the 6 bearings or is that getting to complicated. I did notice my local bike shop did stock a lot of parks so I will get that today. Cheers

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## Procter (Feb 3, 2012)

Check the EV diagram for this pedal:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techd...PD/EV-PD-MX80-3390A_v1_m56577569830820611.pdf

OK: By casing, I assume you mean the cylindrical piece between bearings 3 and 3, which holds the bearings onto the spindle cone and is retained by the retention cone and lock nut.

I recommend you do not remove this, I have tried this on my XTRs, and the bearings are so tiny, its extremely hard to get them back into the proper location for re-assembly even with tweezers and a magnification stand. I ended up with a loose ball bearing inside the casing which then of course disintegrated and destroyed the other BBs. I ended up just buying a new bearing assembly. Secondly, getting the two nuts properly tensioned is tough with regular tools, it might be easier with the tools in the diagram. Maybe you have the dexterity to get it all back to together but its very tough.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

the dane01 said:


> Cheers guys for that! Watched a few videos on YouTube and someone said don't use normal car grease on any thing aluminium. Anyway of the few videos I watched last night it's a simple pull the axle out of the pedal, repack tighten. But the last video said to open the bearing casings and re grease all the 6 bearings or is that getting to complicated. I did notice my local bike shop did stock a lot of parks so I will get that today. Cheers
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


Grease for basic threads is not a picky thing. Use what you've got.

Servicing the pedal itself depends on the pedals you have.

As for me, I really never bother repacking cartridge bearings. I've never really been any good at removing/replacing the seals on those without damaging them, so I just replace sealed cartridge bearings. Loose bearings, yeah, I repack those. Some pedals have bushings you're better off replacing if they're worn.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

It takes some thought and initial patience to remove sealed bearing seals. It can totally work for Simano bb bearings for example. If you think of a seal as a clock face you can lightly pry with a small flat blade screw driver at 2, 4, 8 and 10 o'clock around the outside. Another method is to get a thin blunt tip knife blade under the outer edge push it in and out at another point say 3 and 12 before gently prying. Rotate to another side and continue around. Some seals need to be pried from the inner lip of the seal if the outer doesn't work. That takes even more care. The inner actual bearing seal for a Shimano bb is an example. The outer 'seal' with the words Do Not Remove is just a plastic friction fit cover you can pry off around the outer edge a little at a time.

Like many bike things once you learn it you can do it easily every time.
Flush the bearings until they spin freely again with Brake Cleaner, etc. You can load with grease and use the seal to push the new grease into the bearing and the old black stuff out.


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

I use mystik car grease for everything except suspension. The only reason I use that grease specifically is because its clear. And cheap. 

Bikes cant generate the heat or load to actually take advantage of better quality grease. Just go for something clear so you can tell how dirty its getting.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

eb1888 said:


> It takes some thought and initial patience to remove sealed bearing seals. It can totally work for Simano bb bearings for example. If you think of a seal as a clock face you can lightly pry with a small flat blade screw driver at 2, 4, 8 and 10 o'clock around the outside. Another method is to get a thin blunt tip knife blade under the outer edge push it in and out at another point say 3 and 12 before gently prying. Rotate to another side and continue around. Some seals need to be pried from the inner lip of the seal if the outer doesn't work. That takes even more care. The inner actual bearing seal for a Shimano bb is an example. The outer 'seal' with the words Do Not Remove is just a plastic friction fit cover you can pry off around the outer edge a little at a time.
> 
> Like many bike things once you learn it you can do it easily every time.
> Flush the bearings until they spin freely again with Brake Cleaner, etc. You can load with grease and use the seal to push the new grease into the bearing and the old black stuff out.


Yeah, I worked for awhile in a factory that made sealed cartridge bearings. I can assemble and disassemble them practically in my sleep. I always manage to destroy that seal whether I want to or not. So I just don't bother anymore.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Sometimes everything comes down to having the right tool for the job. A high quality professional grade bearing seal remover. Mine is a thin flexible blade citrus sectioning knife. Short blunt tip blade with a plastic handle. Free coupon get from Ace or Aco. Or $1 from Dollar tree. Thin and flexible are important.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

*Servicing Sealed Bearings...*

Removing the bearing seal isn't really difficult. Just be aware the seal is little more than a silicone coated brass washer. A very thin brass washer that can be easily damaged if you fail to exercise care. Well..it's frequently brass.

I have a spoon like dental tool that does a good job of gently slipping in between the seal and race. Inner or outer race doesn't seem to matter much to me.

Take your time, have all of the tools and lubricants readily available, and perhaps enhance the bonding experience with your components while enjoying a fine, hand crafted IPA.


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## the dane01 (Sep 19, 2015)

I sill remember my roller skating days late 80s early 90s. Had the bearing press and pullers, heaps of sks bearings sealed and removable bearings, pin clip on wheels axles. Still have them all in a box in the shed! Waiting for the roller skate to return then sell them! But my speed skates do come in handy when moving heavy furniture.









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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Wait a minute, this is a pedal servicing thread...

Ok, the Shimano's are super simple to service. I think servicing the saints is fundamentally the same as the Shimano SPD's. 

Remove the spindle from the pedal.

Inject grease directly into the pedal spindle cavity. 

And re-assemble. The grease is forced through the bearing assemblies and the excess grease exits around the spindle seal.

Done.


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## the dane01 (Sep 19, 2015)

Planing on doing pedals tomorrow, looking on Gumtree this morning and $20 bike maintenance stand popped up not far from where I live.









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## driver bob (Oct 12, 2005)

Generally speaking it's better to clamp the seatpost and not the top tube. The bike can pivot like that and scratch up the finish.

When clamped by the seatpost there's nothing really to scratch up. Also if you overclamp a post it generally wont let you tighten the clamp, a frame is much more fragile.... and sweet score BTW.


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## the dane01 (Sep 19, 2015)

driver bob said:


> Generally speaking it's better to clamp the seatpost and not the top tube. The bike can pivot like that and scratch up the finish.
> 
> When clamped by the seatpost there's nothing really to scratch up. Also if you overclamp a post it generally wont let you tighten the clamp, a frame is much more fragile.... and sweet score BTW.


Thanks bob will do that

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## the dane01 (Sep 19, 2015)

the dane01 said:


> Thanks bob will do that
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


Done









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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

the dane01 said:


> Done
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah, the seatpost is actually SUPPOSED to be clamped, and by much more force than a workstand will put on it. The frame....mehhhh. You might be able to get away with clamping the frame on old steel bikes, but modern ones with more material control can crush surprisingly easily. I've seen carbon road bike top tubes with material so thin that you can actually make them flex/oilcan by pressing hard enough.

Nice score for $20, though.


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## the dane01 (Sep 19, 2015)

Funny thing when I rang up about the maintenance stand the girl said it's $20 cause it won't go down or come apart. Last night I gave every joint and screw WD40 this morning WD silicone. And presto everything slipping and sliding and turning. Amazes me they have a maintenance stand for a bike but can't do maintenance on the maintenance stand

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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Yepper, $20 for that is a score.


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## the dane01 (Sep 19, 2015)

Any idea what the lockring/bolt is for photos 1 and 2. Also found the legs went wider and more stability if the bottom pole was in the holding cup. Cheers









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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I'm a bit baffled by your mystery piece. Looks like a rubber strap is all that holds it in place, which tells me it's supposed to be moved. Is it magnetic or anything like that?

Might help if you knew the brand of the stand, and could look up product info online. I don't see a brand label anywhere. Is there one somewhere that's just been out of the picture frame?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

It's the Kanuter Valve. Be careful. For use my trained personnel only.


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## the dane01 (Sep 19, 2015)

Harold said:


> I'm a bit baffled by your mystery piece. Looks like a rubber strap is all that holds it in place, which tells me it's supposed to be moved. Is it magnetic or anything like that?
> 
> Might help if you knew the brand of the stand, and could look up product info online. I don't see a brand label anywhere. Is there one somewhere that's just been out of the picture frame?


Just you tubed it, its the end of a handle bar stay. So the front wheel will not turn when hanging. I did not get that part. Flexi straps do the same things, hope to do pedals friday, its a bit too hot at the moment. I suppose I could sneak it in with the air conditioning on wife might not like that. Ha

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## the dane01 (Sep 19, 2015)

Pedals are all done. Amazing how much details are on YouTube. Did not go as far as removing bearings.









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