# Does anyone use joint compound for spoke prep?



## crclawn (Sep 26, 2010)

Does anyone use joint compund (like what u use in plumbing) for spoke prep? It seems like it does the exact same job as spoke prep, just you can get it for way less money.


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## bing! (Jul 8, 2010)

Brilliant!


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## fotooutdoors (Jul 8, 2010)

Another low-cost option is boiled linseed oil. You need to let it tack up, then build away. I haven't had issues with it so far. It was an idea offered by my LBS. The mechanic said that it is what he uses for his personal wheel builds.


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## unicrown junkie (Nov 12, 2009)

I've been using boiled linseed oil for decades, works great imho.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Boiled Linseed oil.


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## Fred Smedley (Feb 28, 2006)

NAPA PERMATEX ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT


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## unicrown junkie (Nov 12, 2009)

Fred Smedley said:


> NAPA PERMATEX ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT


 Fred, how well does anti-seize work in your experiences? I use the stuff all the time here at my work on marine diesels, but never once thought of using it on bikes for wheel building.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

unicrown junkie said:


> Fred, how well does anti-seize work in your experiences? I use the stuff all the time here at my work on marine diesels, but never once thought of using it on bikes for wheel building.


I think anti-seize works the best. I've had alloy nipples on steel spokes completely covered in corrosion where the nipples just spun right off. Anti-seize is by far the messiest method, especially if you're building wheels in your living room.

Last wheel build I got lazy and didn't want to deal with the mess and just used silicone grease, it has dielectric properties so i figured it would slow the galvanic action.


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## nov0798 (Nov 27, 2005)

If your wheel is tensioned properly, then the spoke nipples wont loosen, so you dont need anything.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

nov0798 said:


> If your wheel is tensioned properly, then the spoke nipples wont loosen, so you dont need anything.


While i agree that locktite, spokeprep, and any locking type compound isn't necessary and i tend to avoid them, you still need some sort of lubricant in there for initial tensioning to help prevent wind up and keep the nipples from welding itself to the spokes.


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## nov0798 (Nov 27, 2005)

I use tri flow and lubricate the nipples, that it, and nothing else.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

I know pipe dope works great as a thread lubricant and won't dry out, but I'm not sure what corrosion inhibiting properties it has. Personally I use anti-seize because it lubricates, seals, and prevents any corrosion between the spokes and nipples.

There's no reason to use linseed oil. Anti-seize does everything it does, except better, more easily, and with less mess. And yes, I used linseed oil before.



nov0798 said:


> I use tri flow and lubricate the nipples, that it, and nothing else.


Are you lubricating the nipple's threads with it?


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## nov0798 (Nov 27, 2005)

Yep. Once I start them, I just place a little around the threads that still show on the spoke, and let it run down into the nipple.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

While Tri-Flow works as a thread lubricant, I think you'd probably find a tube of anti-seize easier to work with, and it's also better suited for the task.


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## nov0798 (Nov 27, 2005)

I am only using it as a thread lubricant and nothing more. I only use it during assembly, and rarely if ever have to do any further adjustment. My wheels stay pretty much true all the time.


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

A lifetime supply of spoke prep costs $20. Just saying.


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## unicrown junkie (Nov 12, 2009)

zebrahum said:


> A lifetime supply of spoke prep costs $20. Just saying.


 Yeah, but is it really any better than boiled linseed oil or anti-sieze? Those are a lot cheaper, and have other uses around the house and shop.

Back when I wrenched for a living, we never saw the need for spoke prep (Wheelsmith's version), since the oil worked just fine.

Plus, is it any different than a medium strength blue loctite? I'm curious!!!


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

unicrown junkie said:


> Yeah, but is it really any better than boiled linseed oil or anti-sieze? Those are a lot cheaper, and have other uses around the house and shop.
> 
> Back when I wrenched for a living, we never saw the need for spoke prep (Wheelsmith's version), since the oil worked just fine.
> 
> Plus, is it any different than a medium strength blue loctite? I'm curious!!!


It's definitely different than locktite and I'm just saying that the purpose-built product is not so expensive that you should be spending too much time worrying about this subject. It's metal on metal, something needs to go between it. I know nothing about linseed oil but I can't see it being much of a preventative agent of normal or galvanic corrosion after a couple years of wheel ownership.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

*anti-sieze is $2*



zebrahum said:


> A lifetime supply of spoke prep costs $20. Just saying.


Just saying its expensive?


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

I don't like Spoke Prep since it also acts as a thread locker. For cheap wheels that might be a plus, but for well built and well tensioned wheels it's a determent, which only makes future work more difficult. When a wheel is built correctly, anti-seize is the ideal product.


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## unicrown junkie (Nov 12, 2009)

zebrahum said:


> It's definitely different than locktite and I'm just saying that the purpose-built product is not so expensive that you should be spending too much time worrying about this subject. It's metal on metal, something needs to go between it. I know nothing about linseed oil but I can't see it being much of a preventative agent of normal or galvanic corrosion after a couple years of wheel ownership.


 From my time as a wrench, linseed oil worked great to prevent corrosion. But since I have zero experience as a metallurgical specialist, take it for what its worth.


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

Ratt said:


> Just saying its expensive?


Cute. You get rep.


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## crclawn (Sep 26, 2010)

Well, I did one rim with pipe dope and now switched over to the anti sieze just becuase it seems a bit smoother to apply and I got a big bottle for less than $7 bucks.


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## nov0798 (Nov 27, 2005)

I never worry about corrosion on the spokes to nipples. Every winter I thoroughly disassemble the bike at the start of the winter, and lube everything, to include a few drops of oil on top of each nipple, and from the inside of the wheel inside each nipple. Let it sit, then wipe it down. Have never had a problem if I have to adjust the tension. Like everything else, a little maintenance goes a long way.


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## Mike T. (Dec 30, 2003)

nov0798 said:


> If your wheel is tensioned properly, then the spoke nipples wont loosen, so you dont need anything.


^^^^^ This times eleventy billion. I use a purpose-made thread lubricant, anti-seize compound, and haven't had a spoke loosen in livin' memory. Thread glue not necessary unless it's needed to compensate for poor wheelbuilding.


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

I use a light oil on the spoke threads and anti-seize applied with a cotton-bud to the inside of the rim spoke hole - works really well with non-eyletted rims and alu nipples (eg. stan's rims).


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## RSWMTB (Jun 7, 2011)

TigWorld said:


> I use a light oil on the spoke threads


Wurd...

I use a hunk of tape on my bench with a blob of Phil's Tenacious oil. I give the spoke threads a light coat of it, and it's all good.

:thumbsup:

.


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## mechBgon (Jan 28, 2007)

unicrown junkie said:


> I've been using boiled linseed oil for decades, works great imho.


I like unboiled linseed oil even better, but it cures so slowly it's impractical for shop work. Sets up nice and gummy, keeping grime out of the threads nicely and preventing nipple loosening even if the wheel gets wowed and can't maintain tension on the spokes anymore. It's always a pleasure encountering an old road wheel from the '90s that was built with linseed oil and still cooperates when it needs truing. Plus after that long, they don't stink anymore :thumbsup:

I've also used antisieze and Ti Prep. Back when Zipp wheels came in kit form, the typical customer wanted the ti spokes with alloy nipples, a combo forged in you-know-where for its special ability to sieze up. But for steel spokes, I lean towards either Wheelsmith SpokePrep or linseed oil for the spoke threads.

As for the original topic, a pipe-thread sealant that sets up in a putty-like consistency would be quite good, keeping contamination out of the threads for the long haul and being impervious to wash-out. If the wheel gets hammered, it would also prevent unravelling.


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## lone ranger nh (Oct 19, 2011)

some people use nail polish as spoke prep. pink works best [ha ha ] but i agree with previous posts that it is not necessary. i put the nipples in a ziplock bag and add some phil wood oil. i also lube spoke crossings and spoke holes on the hub flange. as long as you get the spoke tension tight enough they shouldn't loosen. grow,opps i mean build your own!!! happy building


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## grandsalmon (Oct 24, 2005)

nov0798 said:


> If your wheel is tensioned properly, then the spoke nipples wont loosen, so you dont need anything.


I believe in what *Ratt* said as the addition; a lubricant/slip to help bring it up.

I use linseed oil. I am an artist and have a bunch around- none says boiled but....
On eyeletted rims I use a mid viscosity oil w quitip underneath eyelet; for the nipple to spin when tensioning. After relieving along, and then acoustically even- generally high, the wheel is standing, solid, I give it a ride. I check it back on the truing stand afterwards to make sure all is cool, then I add a drop of loctite to the top of the nip and spin and wick.

I just switched out some rims for wider ones on my 240's and had NO problems dissembling. The wheels were on my Heckler for 7 years which I beat on ( I live an hour from Downieville, and other great riding areas, and my wheels have never had to be trued/tensioned up). All my wheel builds have had the same success- so I stick to my "recipe".

Oh yea, non-hardening joint compound (white stuff) I use in BB assemblies- back threads and interfaces. Sounds okay with Wbuilding, but I like how linseed get "old".


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## PitchCrew (Sep 17, 2008)

nov0798 said:


> If your wheel is tensioned properly, then the spoke nipples wont loosen, so you dont need anything.


thx. agreed


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## NEPMTBA (Apr 7, 2007)

Car Wax...

... all I have ever used.


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## mookamatook (Oct 18, 2018)

Seems like (1) thread prep for newbies and those that want an easy solution (especially with color coded left/right options) (2) Anti seize for those that want to save a few bucks and (3) linseed oil for those who want that gummy goodness but have the time to wait 4-5 days for it to really set up. Those that pride themselves on perfect wheel building just lube the threads and hope that their confidence carries the wheels through any sort of loosening. To each their own!


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I despise thread locked spokes, it makes it too damn hard to true a wheel and it really sucks if you gotta replace a rim and want to use the same spokes.

A dab of oil or grease on the threads to make things easier to assemble, never had issues with spokes loosening.

Yeah, I reuse spokes, works great. … use new nips of course 🙄


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

mookamatook said:


> Seems like...


You decided to resurrect a decade old thread for this?


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## mookamatook (Oct 18, 2018)

bad mechanic said:


> You decided to resurrect a decade old thread for this?


I sure did  I’m non-discriminatory when it comes to thread age. This all still applies!


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

another vote for permatex anti-seize. A properly built wheel should never loosen on its own, and threadlock type stuff just makes it hard to retrue the wheel down the road. Antiseize lasts longer as a thread lube than anything else, and prevents corrosion


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

I just use linseed oil... but I always have that around in the shop, so it's handy.


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