# Show pics of your 1x9 setup



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

It's the wave of the future. Simple, reliable, lighter. It has made me a better rider since I don't worry about getting my chain to drop into the granny gear on climbs. I just pick a line and hammer. It makes me stronger and more efficient without the knee-busting efforts of a singlespeed. Without the extra rings I can run a shorter chain and get a lot less chainslap. And there is nothing I hate more than trying to get a front derailleur to stop rubbing.

I built this up over a few months by scrounging for good deals on lightly used parts on Ebay and buying OEM take-offs from JensonUSA. I got my hydroformed aluminum Planet X frame, King headset and Thompson seatpost from Ebay for $220 total. So far I've bought every part except the fork and wheels for ~$700. Retail would have been over $1500. I should end up saving about a grand by building it myself. I built it like this because I'm north of 200# and ride the very rocky and rooted trails at Turkey Mountain in Tulsa, so durability was a priority.

Truvativ Hussefelt crank, 32T with aluminum bashguard, 22T removed. JensonUSA takeoff- $69
Truvativ DHLT BB, 113x68. JensonUSA takeoff - $19
SRAM PC-991 chain, solid pin. JensonUSA pricematch - $26
SRAM X-7 rear shifter, JensonUSA takeoff - $30 for pair. Would have liked the X.0, just needed something to work with the X.0 derailleur for now. Still works great.
SRAM PG990 11-34T cassette, the new red one. New in box from Ebay - $75
SRAM X.0 Long Cage derailleur. Barely used on Ebay - $100
Nokon cable housing ~$45 for front & rear, BlueSky Cycling
Jagwire teflon coated cables, BlueSky
NGear Jumpstop - $9 at LBS - absolutely necessary unless you enjoy stopping every 5 minutes to put chain back on the chainring.

















Now let's see your setups and tell us why you chose your components.


----------



## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

*How About 1x8?*

44T chainring and 12-25 cassette all Campy drivetrain.

I had to run it 1x for a while while I was waiting for replacement chainrings. Middle rings are tough to come by. It wasn't much of a climber but but it was a good warm up for cyclocross (ie having to run up steep climbs).


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

*44x25 low gear?*

Wouldn't that rub bad?

just looking at that makes my knees hurt.


----------



## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

*Not That Bad*

It's on par with the gearing most of the SS crowd runs.
44-25 = 1.76:1
2:1 is fairly standard SS gearing

What do you mean 'rub bad' ?


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Shayne said:


> What do you mean 'rub bad' ?


When you're in the big ring in the front and back; it usually stretches the chain to the max and creates an extreme angle across the gears. It wouldn't be as bad with a 25T in the rear as it would with a 32T.


----------



## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

*Well Technically....*

...it would be the same. The 25T and 32T would be in the same position on the cassette body so the angle would be equal.

However I ran a shorter BB temporarily with the single ring. This shifted the 44T in where the middle ring would be therefore giving me a pretty good chainline and allwing the use of all 8 cogs.


----------



## Guest (Jan 20, 2006)

I went 1X9 a while back and love it. 05 Specialized Enduro Expert...

Extralite 30T CR
Spot Brand Ringguard
N-Gear Jumpstop
XT Cranks (tuned)
XT Med Cage RD (Tuned with Ti and XTR parts)
XT 11-34 cassette
Sram PC-99 chain
Crank Bros 2xTi pedals
Answer Pro Taper carbon riser bar
FSA XC115 stem
ODI Oury grips
LX shifter pod (tuned)
Juicy 7 brakes (stock)
Chris King/Mavic 819 wheels
Fox 36R Talas (stock)

new rear shock should be in the mail (DHX Air) because my 5th Element died this past weekend

everything on my bike was chosen to reduce weight or increase strength. i weigh 200lbs and ride hard, but climb LOTS. going up then going down is what we do so, light to go up, strong for fast hard decents. i freaking hate FD's and i hate trying to tune them. besides the frame looks so much cleaner now. i only own one bike so it has to do everything for me.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

That's a sweet setup. What's your total weight?


----------



## Guest (Jan 20, 2006)

she is still a bit heavy depending on tires. just above 30lbs with Kenda Cortez 2.4's. she is a bit heavier right now with a Kenda BG 2.35 on front with a Maxxis High Roller 2.35 UST tubeless on the rear (don't know exact weight).

i could drop more weight by milling/drilling the ring guard or tuning the right shifter (i did a bunch of grinding and stuff on the left one that came off as an experiment and lost 60g or so). the seat is rather heavy as well as the grips, but i sort of like their functionality. longer seat lets me move my weight around on the climbs and the grips have a really nice solid feel to them.

i like your setup too. i would probably have a lot of pinch flats if it weren't for my 6" of rear travel though!

i do hope to build a new bike this year. i hope to get a 29er (with full gears) for when i ride with the cardio freaks. it seems that riding with those guys with this bike is a bit of a handicap  they all have carbon framed super light fully geared XC machines. needless to say i struggle to keep up with them on the climbs and fire road ascents. (i make up some time going down though)


----------



## jumpin_joe2u (Jan 27, 2004)

Been riding this for over 2 years now. I've only dropped the chain a handful of times and it has always been in a crash, never while riding.


----------



## jumpin_joe2u (Jan 27, 2004)

Forgot to mention 36T non-ramped chainring, 11-34 cassette. I live and ride in Colorado and have never run out of gears. Love 1x9 so much that I've convinced my friend to convert on his new build.


----------



## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Jump stop won't work with my frame. There's a weld right where it needs to clamp on.

Deore shifter
XTR cables and housing
XTR rear derailleur
XTR 11-34 cassette
Truvativ DHLT BB
Bontrager Big Earl cranks
E-13 Guide-ring 36t chainring - no ramps or pins with a .5mm step
Blackspire 1/2" Lexan C4 bashguard
MRP
Wipperman Connex 1x9 chain



















Here's the spare parts build on the Haro Escape 8.2

Deore shifter
SRAM PG 960 11-32 cassette
SRAM PG 960 chain
LX rear derailleur if I can find it in my parts box, otherwise it keeps the Deore
Cable housing has since been replaced with XTR housing
32t chainring, flipped so the chain doesn't drop
Shimano BB
Bontrager Comp cranks
MRP bashguard
Hacked up LX front derailleur to keep the chain from dropping


----------



## Pedro K (Feb 16, 2005)

Heres my 05 Cannondale Prophet. I upgraded my crankset to the Shimano XT and decided it was time to give a Bash gaurd a try, while I was at it i took the Front D of and ditched the granny ring figureing it was time to get strong. The bashgaurd has allowed me to do a lot more, it is so fun to crash over large logs. The plastic E.thirteen slides ride over the logs, very cool. So far i have been doing allright without the granny gear.

I used the Jumpstop, the the chain has held on pretty well


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

nmnmnm


----------



## tmp (Sep 7, 2005)

I have a SC Superlight 1x9 with an old Raceface taper crank and Spot 34t ring, don't use a Jump Spot and chain drop has not been a problem on this bike for almost 3 years. My old heckler needed the JS or the chain would not stay put.
Really like the extra ground clearence and clean look of 1X, and I never used the big or small rings anyway.


----------



## MTBDad (Jan 2, 2004)

*Loving' the 1x Set-Up!!*

I converted my Chester to a 1x8 set-up. Removed the smallest cog from the cassette because the Boone chainring I am using was built to sit in the 'outer' ring position and by adding a spacer behind the largest tooth, I was able to improve the chainline. My Smoothie is set-up as a 2x9, likely to also loose the smallest cog to lessen the cross chain effect. Here's the complete build.

Matt Chester Frame ( I believe the only vertical dropout Ute he ever built)
Fox Vanilla RLC fork
CK Ti headset
Moots Ti Seatpost and Riser Bar
Seven Cycles Ti stem
Wheel set (f) Phil Wood Sl disc hub/supecomp/Dt 4.1d
(r) CK Classic/supercomp/Mavic 3.1
Phil Wood Ti BB
Avid BB-7 (f) brake Avid Ultimate Vee (r) with Avid Ultimate Levers
Boone Ti SS Chainring (31-tooth)
Cycle Dynamics Ti 13-34 cassette
RF Turbine Cranks
X.0 Rear Derailleur and Twist Shifter


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

*You win*

Hands down, that's got to be the most beautiful bike ever to run 1x9.
Awesome.


----------



## Jinks (Jan 16, 2005)

Here's mine. It's an '05 Voodoo Bizango. I picked up a 32T salsa chainring from my local REI and got an NGear jumpstop, and I got a bashguard off of ebay. I run a 11-34 cassette. It rides like a dream and since converting it 9 months ago it's been maintenance free. I hated that front der.


----------



## Guest (Jan 24, 2006)

wow.. both of those last two are very beautiful bikes. nicely done. 

MTB dad... i can't believe that you don't have problems dropping the chain, but whatever you did to keep it in place, congrats. it is so sweet and clean without the N-gear. do ride hard through rock gardens and such?


----------



## MTBDad (Jan 2, 2004)

*I am running a...*

jump stop, just not the guard. The chainring is a Boone SS ring, so it is unramped and the teeth appear to be slightly taller than a 'standard' ring as they were never designed to allow for the chain to move. The removal of one cog and the subsequent moving of the rest of the cassette 'outward' seems to keep the chainline pretty straight. I don;t ride a lot in the way of rock gardens here on Long Island, but we do have our share of root gardens that will chatter your fillings loose and knock wood (knuckle to head) no issues yet. The RD is a medium cage and I run the chain as short as possible. In the process of planning my next 'project' which will be another 1x8, probably a softtail.


----------



## Guest (Jan 25, 2006)

i too run the med length RD with a pretty short chain. i bet that boone ring helps lots. anyway you have a super sweet bike! thanks for posting pics.

i am actually thinking maybe my next build should be a 1X9. i am looking at getting one of the Niner S.I.R.9 frames. currently agonizing over color and fork choices


----------



## Hosehead (May 4, 2005)

Boy there are some nice setups in here! Kind of making me wish I had set mine up as a 1x9 instead of a 2x9. Maybe that will be a project for next winter..........


----------



## TroutBum (Feb 16, 2004)

scrublover said:


> love the clean look, and feel of it. nice and silent up front...


feel the same way... I'm really enjoying my 1x8


----------



## Guest (Jan 28, 2006)

so i asked my LBS to get the pricing for my next potential 1X9. the S.I.R.9 in red. i want to do a red/white/blue theme. blue king hubs, red spoke nipples, red frame, red/white/blue king headset. i need to find more white parts and maybe some more blue bits  (might have to look into getting some custom colors on the fork  )

originally i was thinking that i could ride the 29er as a full geared bike, but i have been riding the wifes bike (05 stumpy with full compliment of gears) and i don't do well with the granny gear. even on the looooong steep climb called "Cardiac" i ride better in the middle ring than when i try to spin the granny gear. maybe it is due to riding my bike 1X9, maybe my physique isn't good for spinning.

initially i will build it up as a SS and add the gears when money is available.


----------



## MTBDad (Jan 2, 2004)

*Lesson Learned vis-a-vis Tempting...*

the fates! Dropped the chain for the first time this weekend after proclaiming so authoritatively here that I have no probelsm with chain drops. Oh well, I guess I'll just keep my big mouth shut!!

MTB dad... i can't believe that you don't have problems dropping the chain, but whatever you did to keep it in place, congrats. it is so sweet and clean without the N-gear. do ride hard through rock gardens and such?


----------



## Guest (Jan 30, 2006)

MTBDad...

that totally sucks! i am sorry that i had to go and jinx your perfect record. your bike is really pretty without anything on the outside of the ring. a quick fix would be to throw a Spot Brand ring guard on the outside. the best fix for you would probably be a device similar to what was shown previously where the jumpstop captures the inside, top, and outside of the chain. a nice AL billet piece might not take away from your aesthetics too much.


----------



## adamantane (Jan 27, 2005)

hey, i just pulled the FD off my bike...it feels great!...i'm just keeping my 32T ring...i've got a Heim guide but not the jumpstop or bashguard...think i'll be ok...man, my bike looks sweet...wish i knew how to post these pix...clean, clean ,clean and right


----------



## MattP. (Oct 3, 2005)

I finished going to a 1x9 about a week, but haven't took it on any rides besides urban  Been raining foreverrrrrrrr. I'll get pics manana.


----------



## Cyco-Dude (Feb 12, 2004)

adamantane said:


> ...wish i knew how to post these pix...clean, clean ,clean and right


mtbr provides all of its members with space to store bike photos. near the top of the page there is a link "upload photos". your image needs to be within the size limit (250 kb). click the "browse" button to upload the pic from your hard drive to mtbr. then click on the pic in your gallery, copy the image url, and use the forums image code. for example:

```
[img]pic's url[/img]
```
if you already have the pic up on a website somewhere, you do not need to do this. just copy the image url and use the forums image code (you can also click on the small picture of a mountain and sun above where you type, if you don't want to enter the tags manually). make sure you click the "preview post" button to make sure everything is ok befor you submit your post.

an alternative way to upload files (usually pictures), is to click on the "upload images" button in the "attach files" box. this is located below of where you type. easy as pie. eating pie i guess. i couldn't make a pie to save my life.


----------



## adamantane (Jan 27, 2005)

Cyco-Dude said:


> mtbr provides all of its members with space to store bike photos. near the top of the page there is a link "upload photos". your image needs to be within the size limit (250 kb). click the "browse" button to upload the pic from your hard drive to mtbr. then click on the pic in your gallery, copy the image url, and use the forums image code. for example:
> 
> ```
> [img]pic's url[/img]
> ...


alright..that was a great overview..wish they had that wrtten up somewhere...i will try it out..thanks again for the detailed descrition for dummies...i'll be referring to this post while learning


----------



## Guest (Feb 2, 2006)

it's not drivetrain related, but i was so excited about getting my bike back today i just had to post a pic of my new shock. can't wait to ride SJT this saturday on my 1X9!!!!!!!!!


----------



## adamantane (Jan 27, 2005)

jumpin_joe2u said:


> Been riding this for over 2 years now. I've only dropped the chain a handful of times and it has always been in a crash, never while riding.


two question: 1) where did you get those low profile chainring bolts, and 2) where did you get that chainring roller guide, or is that scratch built

thanks


----------



## jumpin_joe2u (Jan 27, 2004)

adamantane said:


> two question: 1) where did you get those low profile chainring bolts, and 2) where did you get that chainring roller guide, or is that scratch built
> 
> thanks


The chainring bolts are standard BMX equipment (any LBS should carry them). I have seen them also advertised online as "single speed chainring bolts."

The chainguide was something I just scraped together with stuff I had in my basement junk hardware box, but it was inspired by a post that used to get a lot of talk here a few years ago. Some guy took some coins and made one that admittedly looks much nicer than mine, but mine was origionally intended as just a prototype (some prototypes last longer than others). Anyway, I had the benefit of having an "e-type" derrailleur bolt to fasten the chainguide to, but you should be able to easily alter one of those "jump-stop" thingies to function as the anchor to the seat tube.

Think I found the pic that inspired me awhile back (sorry I don't recall who origionally posted it, so I can't give credit).


----------



## MattP. (Oct 3, 2005)

Alright here is mine. Due to weather, haven't took it on the trail yet  But on Monday....


----------



## adamantane (Jan 27, 2005)

jumpin_joe2u said:


> The chainring bolts are standard BMX equipment (any LBS should carry them). I have seen them also advertised online as "single speed chainring bolts."
> 
> The chainguide was something I just scraped together with stuff I had in my basement junk hardware box, but it was inspired by a post that used to get a lot of talk here a few years ago. Some guy took some coins and made one that admittedly looks much nicer than mine, but mine was origionally intended as just a prototype (some prototypes last longer than others). Anyway, I had the benefit of having an "e-type" derrailleur bolt to fasten the chainguide to, but you should be able to easily alter one of those "jump-stop" thingies to function as the anchor to the seat tube.
> 
> Think I found the pic that inspired me awhile back (sorry I don't recall who origionally posted it, so I can't give credit).


buff, i've got to make one of these...i like the fact that it is on top of the chain as well as side to side some what..i think i loose chain because the chain can rise up..but this overhead deal should keep it put...it would be interesting to also have one at the 6 o'clock position..but maybe that's overkill...but man, i jump and smack into stuff and blast through rocks...invariably loose the chain in these situations

i've gone to my local lbs, the guys is older and doesn't know or care, keep telling me i come in asking for these he doesn't have...i though lbs guys loved bikes and how to solve problems with them

anyway, thanks...maybe i should just get an MRP LRP


----------



## jumpin_joe2u (Jan 27, 2004)

*Kiss*

I'm a huge fan of the "Keep It Simple Stupid" philosophy! I guess I don't see the need for all these bashrings AND jump-stops. I have no doubt that this method retains the chain, but it just seems like such overkill to me. Seems ridiculous to add so much stuff just to "simplify" to a 1x9 drivetrain. Don't get me wrong, if you live in an area where you tend to chew up your chainring, by all means use a bashring. But if you are just looking to keep your chain from coming off, there has to be a simpler way. Heck, before I constructed my little chainguide, I just used my regular ol' front derrailleur with great success (maybe it doesn't look as cool, but it worked flawlessly and had so much less......I don't know.......crap).

Basically, I just don't understand how most of the general population runs 3X9 with a 42T or 44T chainring and doesn't destroy their chainrings, but when you go to a single 34T or 36T chainring suddenly everyone needs a bashring!? Is it just me or does this all seem like overcomplicating matters?

I absolutely understand that some people's riding styles require bashrings....I'm not saying nobody should run one. I am just asking how many people are running bashrings combined with jump-stops, just to serve the purpose of chain retention.


----------



## adamantane (Jan 27, 2005)

jumpin_joe2u said:


> I'm a huge fan of the "Keep It Simple Stupid" philosophy! I guess I don't see the need for all these bashrings AND jump-stops. I have no doubt that this method retains the chain, but it just seems like such overkill to me. Seems ridiculous to add so much stuff just to "simplify" to a 1x9 drivetrain. Don't get me wrong, if you live in an area where you tend to chew up your chainring, by all means use a bashring. But if you are just looking to keep your chain from coming off, there has to be a simpler way. Heck, before I constructed my little chainguide, I just used my regular ol' front derrailleur with great success (maybe it doesn't look as cool, but it worked flawlessly and had so much less......I don't know.......crap).
> 
> Basically, I just don't understand how most of the general population runs 3X9 with a 42T or 44T chainring and doesn't destroy their chainrings, but when you go to a single 34T or 36T chainring suddenly everyone needs a bashring!? Is it just me or does this all seem like overcomplicating matters?
> 
> I absolutely understand that some people's riding styles require bashrings....I'm not saying nobody should run one. I am just asking how many people are running bashrings combined with jump-stops, just to serve the purpose of chain retention.


i think the idea of jumpstop and bash ring, is that the chain cannot derrail to the right or the left...i just mounted a jumpstop (without bashring) and i lost my chain a bunch coming down my favorite fireroad, the chain came off to the right as you'd expect. waiting for the bashring to show up at my doorstep, this bashring should hopefully elimanate the loss of chain. but your set up is very simple and cheap...so my bashring and jumpstop will eliminate left and right movement of the chain, but the chain can still rise up and possible over either the bashring or the jumpstop.

i will find this out shortly...your systems prevent almost all movement of the chain, which is nice for such a simple design...need to be in thinking mode over buying mode


----------



## MattP. (Oct 3, 2005)

Cyco-Dude said:


> this may or may not matter, but a nice bashring (or spot chaingaurd) looks nice. nothing wrong with that i suppose. i do have a question for those of you using bashrings - does the chain rub the bashring at all while using the smaller cogs?


Doesnt for me.


----------



## Cyco-Dude (Feb 12, 2004)

this may or may not matter, but a nice bashring (or spot chaingaurd) looks nice. nothing wrong with that i suppose. i do have a question for those of you using bashrings - does the chain rub the bashring at all while using the smaller cogs?


----------



## Enduro_506 (Sep 5, 2004)

Despite the fact that I love my 1x9 bike, I still think the N-gear Jumpstop is way too fragile. I've already broken 2 of them. They're made way too light. I wish they would have added a little more material on the thing.


----------



## adamantane (Jan 27, 2005)

Enduro_506 said:


> Despite the fact that I love my 1x9 bike, I still think the N-gear Jumpstop is way too fragile. I've already broken 2 of them. They're made way too light. I wish they would have added a little more material on the thing.


i just got one set up on my bike...where did yours break? same way? and could you figure out how they broke?


----------



## Enduro_506 (Sep 5, 2004)

adamantane said:


> i just got one set up on my bike...where did yours break? same way? and could you figure out how they broke?


I don't know how it happened, but one time the plastic broke and the other time the metal bent in a way it couldn't be bent back again. It happened during freeride applications.

I do run a single speed specific 32T chainring by the way.

But the jumpstops are so damn cheap, I will keep ordering them. I just love the 1x9 simplicity. Front derailleurs are satans work.


----------



## Guest (Feb 9, 2006)

as far as having a ring guard, it is essential on my bike. i will see if i can get a picture of what my spot brand ring guard looks like after 5 months. it is pretty beat up. i do play around on boulders more than most people i guess...


----------



## MattP. (Oct 3, 2005)

Enduro_506 said:


> Front derailleurs are satans work.


Yeah they are, they make noise, and are a pain in the rear end to adjust


----------



## adamantane (Jan 27, 2005)

MattP. said:


> Yeah they are, they make noise, and are a pain in the rear end to adjust


but they are a rudamentary chain guide...if that's all ya got


----------



## jumpin_joe2u (Jan 27, 2004)

The point I was trying to make is that lots of people appear to be using a bashring for the sole purpose of keeping the chain on their 1x9 setup. It amazes me that no mainstream retailers have come up with a simple retention device that would save lots of weight and just look so much cleaner.


----------



## Cyco-Dude (Feb 12, 2004)

MattP. said:


> Doesnt for me.


weird, your reply appears above mine instead of below it (where it should be, since i have posts linear, oldest first). 

i have a second question for you 1x9'ers - the chain is angled quite a bit when using the smallest and largest cogs, how does this affect drivetrain wear? granted, it's not as bad as the small-small or large-large combos in 3x9 setups, but....just wondering out loud.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Most of us are using the middle chainring position. Unless you've altered the stock chainline in some significant way, the middle chainring is usually designed to be able to reach all the rear gears without severe chain deflection.


----------



## jumpin_joe2u (Jan 27, 2004)

i have a second question for you 1x9'ers - the chain is angled quite a bit when using the smallest and largest cogs, how does this affect drivetrain wear? granted, it's not as bad as the small-small or large-large combos in 3x9 setups, but....just wondering out loud.[/QUOTE]

I completely understand your hesitation with regards to premature wear. I considered that before switching. Much to my relief, I have found that there has been very little difference in chain and cassette wear. I have seen no difference with the largest cog, but do see marginally more wear on the smallest cog. I chalk this up to excessive use more so than the angle of the chain. Realize that you will run that 11 or 12 cog far more often than you used to with a large ring available. I never used to run a small chainring, so I actually do almost all of my rides in the smallest 7 cogs (the largest two have simply become fallout gears). That could also explain why I have not noticed any additional wear to the large cog. To clarify, I run a 36T chainring with 11-34 cassette.


----------



## Guest (Feb 10, 2006)

i havn't noticed any severe wear on my drivetrain. i do keep up on my maintenance though. every week i make sure i clean my chain and relube it. i use mineral spirits and my air compressor to thoroughly clean the chain and then relube. i do a lot of climbing and spend quite a bit of time in the 34T cog. i figure if i had a XTR cassette the Ti cog might wear faster, so i stick to XT. I run an Xtralite 30T chainring.

my Spot Brand ring guard does a great job of protecting my chainring. it isn't as beefy or as heavy as the big bashrings. it doesn't weigh much more than a stock XT big ring. it does perform double duty keeping my chain on, but primary duty is to keep my drivetrain working.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

*Update*

Well, the 1x9 passed the litmus test two weeks ago. Finished 15.5 miles at the annual 12 Miles of Hell at Fort Sill, OK, without a problem. I did a lot of pushing up the climbs, but not much more than I would have done if I had a super low granny gear. Climbed past a lot of guys with 3x9s too.


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

jumpin_joe2u said:


> The point I was trying to make is that lots of people appear to be using a bashring for the sole purpose of keeping the chain on their 1x9 setup. It amazes me that no mainstream retailers have come up with a simple retention device that would save lots of weight and just look so much cleaner.


Rohloff did. but it's spendy! $60! ouch! (I want one)


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

I use a 36T to 11-34. I just switched from 42T this week and find it really suits my riding. The 36T has a kind of 'natural' feel to it; I can plod along in comfortably in 7,8 or 9 and then put a big spurt on without feeling like I'm climbing over the big ring. I've lost a little at the top end but, to be honest, for the few occaisions I have to hit a long stretch of road, it just isn't worth it. It still gives me plenty to work with on slow, technical stuff, too. I may try a 38T sometime, out of curiosity, but I'm really feeling comfortable with this set up.
Anyways, drivetrain comprises: DMR Saturn 36T and XTR (CN-7701) chain, kept together with a Truvativ BoxGuide; XTR mech and XT cassette. I've also kept the Avid Whateveritscalled because whatever (Shimano) mech I've used it's always made it work that little bit better. I swear these things should be one of the first things anyone should 'upgrade' to.


----------



## RWGreen (Dec 5, 2004)

finger51 said:


> Rohloff did. but it's spendy! $60! ouch! (I want one)


Spendy - but worth it in my experience so far.

I just got rid of those crap truvativ stylo outboard bearing model cranks, and replaced with these. I greased everything, tightened, etc and could not get them to stop creaking - and they creaked alot!


----------



## Whitebread (Aug 28, 2006)

I'mm definitively moving to a 1X9 setup when I get my bike. There is absolutely no need for 27 gears, IMO.


----------



## bermluvr (Aug 2, 2006)

Whitebread said:


> I'mm definitively moving to a 1X9 setup when I get my bike. There is absolutely no need for 27 gears, IMO.


Agreed. I love my 1x9 drivetrain


----------



## Enduro_Man (Oct 4, 2005)

Anyone been trying it the other way!? 3x1?! It's great, climb, cruise and hammer. Takes awhile to really get the gearing worked out tho.


----------



## Whitebread (Aug 28, 2006)

Enduro_Man said:


> Anyone been trying it the other way!? 3x1?! It's great, climb, cruise and hammer. Takes awhile to really get the gearing worked out tho.


Dealing with a front derailluer AND only having 3 gear combinations? Seems like a waste of time if you ask me man.


----------



## Dms1818 (May 10, 2006)

*2x9 to 1x9*

After reading this thread I decided to convert my 2x9 to 1x9. It runs great. Quiet, no front der. rub. I run my 32T all the time anyway. I just have to get the N-Gear Jump Stop.
I might not need it though, 90% of my riding is Urban, very little XC. Thanks Everyone!


----------



## edmoloco (Feb 18, 2004)

*this is just what I was looking for!*

I did it by accident, I drilled out the cable stop to run full cable housing and realized too late there was none on the seat tube. Oops, so I have been using the middle ring. It's my commuter so I'm trying to keep it cheep/parts I have on hand. I want to get a bigger ring; I'm guessing that is a 32, so maybe 34-36?? I haven't dropped the chain yet but it' s only been a few days. I have an old big ring I was going to grind the teeth off of for a outer guard/guide, hadn't thought about the inside, maybe cut down a front derailer. Any suggestions?


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

Dms1818 said:


> After reading this thread I decided to convert my 2x9 to 1x9. It runs great. Quiet, no front der. rub. I run my 32T all the time anyway. I just have to get the N-Gear Jump Stop.
> I might not need it though, 90% of my riding is Urban, very little XC. Thanks Everyone!


Are you running a SRAM shifter with a shimano XT rear derailleur? I didn't think that was possible?


----------



## Dms1818 (May 10, 2006)

*SRAM/Shimano*

SRAM Attack and Rocket shifters work with Shimano rear ders.


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

Dms1818 said:


> SRAM Attack and Rocket shifters work with Shimano rear ders.


good to know. Not too happy with the way my XT shifter sits next to my Avid lever. maybe it'll get replaced some day.

Here's my 1x9 29'r in progress:


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

a slingshot with rear suspension and a rigid front fork? That's unique.


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

Indiefab said:


> a slingshot with rear suspension and a rigid front fork? That's unique.


yeah it's a weird bike for sure. Hell of a lot of fun to ride though. I don't think it falls under the 'rear suspension' category though- more of a Cross Country Freak Machine, yeah that sounds right.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

*'06 ML 1x9*

forgive the stem spacer hell, still tweeking the front end (fresh build)...

-------------------------------------------------------------------
* Bottom Bracket: Truvativ GigaPipe 118x73
* Cranks: Truvativ Hussefelt 175mm
* Chainring: Truvativ 32t
* Chain: Shimano XT 9spd
* BashGuard: Goldtooth Mafia
* Inner Guard: Black Spire Blackguard
* Cassette: Shimano XT 9spd 11-34
* Front Derailleur:
* Front Shifter:
* Rear Derailleur: XT medium cage
* Rear Shifter: XT black
* Shift Cable: Shimano XTR gray
-------------------------------------------------------------------

more pics and specs in this thread

.


----------



## Dms1818 (May 10, 2006)

*Bash ring size?*

I run a 32T on my 1x9 with a 34 Bash ring. What is the sizes of your inner and outer rings? Where did you get it? Clean set-up. Good Job.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

Thanks. The outer is a Goldtooth 38t and the inner is a Blackspire 36t, bought both here. Wanted to go a bit bigger to avoid using a clamp chainguide, works well no drops as of yet, but just a few rides so only time will tell.


----------



## Ricisan (Aug 30, 2006)

*I'm down w/that!*

I thought I was goint to start my own thread. All I use is the 32T center ring w/8 sp. The outer ring is all bent and trashed and the smaller ring I never use either. I want to drop both, I guess I'll need the "Single speed chainring bolts". I want to drop the FD, don't like the way it rubs in hi gears. I like some of the bashring/chainguides. I found both from Gamut "G25" 32-34T it is plastic and has good reviews. It is $. I understand the chainring, RD and cassett get changed w/chain. I could use a 9 sp w/34 T would give me a little higher/lower. What would be an effective and cost effective upgrade? I'm thinking 2004 would be a good year to upgrade to. Hopefully they would want newer upgrades and I can benifit. I was all excited about upgrading my 97 DB, # 26.5 new. The drivetrain looks orignal Shim STX RC. The wheels are ancient # 11.5 complete. total # 34.5 After the wheel #s, I'm a little discouraged right now. Any thing else I should know about going 
to 1-9 ? Any idea how much # could be lost? TIA

Ricisan


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

scrublover said:


> generic 30t ring, 9spd sram pc-69 chain (i think), n-gear jumpstop with an alu bolt
> when this ring goes, i'll likely grab one of the surly stainless 30t rings.


Hey Scrub~

I notice your n-gear in upside down- was this intended or do you wrench while drinking whiskey? (as I sometimes do)


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

And here it is completed:


----------



## Voltron (Aug 8, 2006)

Converted, will be switching over this week-end. The tracks I ride I never leave the middle ring anyways. 
Thanks everyone


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

finger51 said:


> Hey Scrub~
> 
> I notice your n-gear in upside down- was this intended or do you wrench while drinking whiskey? (as I sometimes do)


it works either direction, or at least it has for me, so i don't sweat whatever way it's on.


----------



## E ! (Jan 15, 2005)

*my 1x9 chameleon*

Well, the chameleon has transformed again. I have been running SS quite a while now. I need one bike with gears for the eff of it. It's pretty much built up with deore components. Shifter,derailer,hubs are deore. The 1x9 part. 
up front: race face bashguard
salsa 32t ring no ramps/pins
n-gear no jump(new bolt)
Rear: shimano deore 9spd(11-32t) casette on deore hub.
Running a dura-ace chain. New drop-out hangers from santa cruz.\

All is good so far after a quickie neighborhood ride.
The one thing about my n-gear(largest one) would not fit with the bolt provided. I went to home depot a came out with a 2" long one. Had to add some small washers as to not dig into the plastic. Lined it up with a penny and works well.
One thing i notice with 1 ring and chainline. My chainline is spot on ctr ring to ctr cog. I guess being so anal with SS chainline i have to say the range of the largest cog in back seems pretty deflected. Looking at bikes with front derailers is the same. My only concern is dropping the chain in the 32x32 if i need to use it. Is this an issue with your guys set-up, or not?
Here's some pics.


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

E ! said:


> The one thing about my n-gear(largest one) would not fit with the bolt provided. I went to home depot a came out with a 2" long one. Had to add some small washers as to not dig into the plastic. Lined it up with a penny and works well.


good idea! mine didn't fit either- being the lazy bastard that I am- I dropped the plastic band in boiling hot water and muscled it on while still malleable. worked without the trip to the HW store.


----------



## minus9 (Oct 7, 2005)

This is one of them.








Here is another. It has a suspension fork now, however.
I am building a 29er right now that morphs from SS to 1x9. It never has a front derailleur in any case.


----------



## Nagaredama (Aug 2, 2004)

I'm going building a 4X/DJ bike with a 1x9 drivetrain and have no clue what size BB I need.

I'm using a BB mount Truvativ Box Guide and ISIS Truvativ Hussefelt cranks. The bike a 135mm rear end.

Can someone give me some insight as to what size BB I'll need?


----------



## JimmyJaymz (Nov 5, 2005)

My 1X9. Tricky to set-up w/ the crankset particulars, but worth it everyday.


----------



## bermluvr (Aug 2, 2006)

STILL trying to locate an e.13 32 special for this setup. (32T front ring)

I derail often. but other than that slight issue, I love the 9 speed.


----------



## Guest (Oct 18, 2006)

FisherCraig...

cheap fix and it WORKS. buy an N-gear jumpstop. they work really well. the Rohloff guide is great too, but expensive and needs customization for some chainlines.


----------



## WhoUtink (Apr 16, 2006)

mechmann_mtb said:


> FisherCraig...
> 
> the Rohloff guide is great too, but expensive and needs customization for some chainlines.


Is it less likely to need modification for a 1x8 setup?
Also , Im planning on getting a 36t raceface dh chainring. Will it be thicker than chainrings designed to be shifted? Or will I need some of those problem solver single chainring bolts?


----------



## RSutton1223 (Aug 22, 2006)

Schwinn Homegrown - Race Face Deus Cranks, Race Face Bash Guard, 32T Blackspire Mono Veloce Ring, XT 11-34 Cassette, X.0 Shifter and RD, N-Gear Jump Stop


----------



## bermluvr (Aug 2, 2006)

mechmann_mtb said:


> FisherCraig...
> 
> cheap fix and it WORKS. buy an N-gear jumpstop. they work really well. the Rohloff guide is great too, but expensive and needs customization for some chainlines.


I heard though that the Rohloff can jam your chain though, (or maybe that was another product, but I am almost positive its that one) I don't really have a problem trying it, but the 32 special just looks so perfect


----------



## Guest (Nov 19, 2006)

Rohloff requires that the mounting spacers be cut down to meet most normal chain lines. In stock form the spacers are just too long and place the guide too far away from the seat tube. The N-Gear provides an easy adjustment of this distance. My wife's new bike has a Rohloff and she has not had any issues with "jamming the chain" yet but i am sure that if setup wrong, any guide can cause problems. I have been using N-gear Jumpstops on my bikes for over a year now. They are good, but they do have their limitations. I have broken one of them, but to be honest it was being used in the wrong application. The N-gear can still have a chain drop, I have done it quite a few times but it does require mad skillz. :eekster: 

I took a picture of the wife's setup today and will post it later if i get a chance.


----------



## Guest (Nov 19, 2006)

here's the pic.










and one of her suffering today..


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

Why not a 42 front chain ring? 

32 sounds kinda slow. Dont you spin that out on steep downhills? 

"Hey, wait for me"


----------



## RSutton1223 (Aug 22, 2006)

It is getting switched out for a 34. The 32 was shipped in error so I thought I would try it out.

With a 42 climbing anything long would be impossible, but the 34 should give me the gear ratios that I need without spinning out on downhills.


----------



## Guest (Nov 21, 2006)

i've been involved in several discussions about downhill speed when using 1x9. i don't have any issues keeping up on downhills. in fact, on most group rides i am among the front runners on the way down, even when i am running a HT and others are FS...

no need to pedal when gravity assists.  learn to pump the terrain and where to unweight and fly over stuff. much faster than trying to pedal.


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

Ikstej24 said:


> It is getting switched out for a 34. The 32 was shipped in error so I thought I would try it out.
> 
> With a 42 climbing anything long would be impossible, but the 34 should give me the gear ratios that I need without spinning out on downhills.


What do single speeders do? 42 front ring and 34 in the back, 1.24 would be significantly lower than 2 on a single speed.

If you investigate standard 2X9, with 29 and 44 in front and 34 in back you would only loose 3 of the lowest gears.


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

I have a favorite race course that runs on the same property as Sea Otter, CCCX, and I think I could run a 40-42 big ring with 11-34 and fly up the easy climbs no problem in this race maybe. I’m going to have to go test, woo hoo.

I think 32 big would be to slow in a race, and even if you are not racing what is the point of being lightweight and simple if you are not going to go fast up hill or down hill? Is that last fast downhill fire road where 10 people pass you when you do not have the proper gearing.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

Killroy said:


> ...
> I think 32 big would be to slow in a race, and even if you are not racing what is the point of being lightweight and simple if you are not going to go fast up hill or down hill?
> ...


it all depends on what you ride. i like the long technical climbs (as in miles), so although you might start with some speed going up, it won't last for long and you need more low end grunt than what a 40-42 can give you

but sure if you've only got those little baby hills that you can just fly right up and over, then i would probably run a taller gear as well


----------



## Guest (Nov 22, 2006)

Killroy i guess you have the ideal setup.:thumbsup: 

there are some places that i haven't ridden yet, so i guess maybe you are more experienced than i am.

i ride a 32t front with 11-34 cassette on all my bikes. simple and light just makes sense. a great engineering principle, never make things more complicated than need be. K.I.S.S.

i have ridden 30+mile 6000' climbing rides and some pretty technical terrain. my experience is very limited in that i have only ridden in california, utah, nevada, colorado and arizona. i have ridden some different terrains such as slickrock, decomposing granite, crested butte loam, red rock, sand etc.

i don't race, except with my friends for bragging rights. racing for bowling trophies is much more serious than i intend to get. i don't go too fast uphill, but then again i ride with other people and making them feel slow is never my intention (although my wife feels slow no matter what). i guess since my gearing is so limited i can't go too fast downhill either, but it hasn't stopped me from going fast enough to have fun and scare myself at will. maybe when i am traveling down a 6" wide singletrack at 30 mph i need to be able to pedal, ignorance is bliss.


----------



## sandmangts (Feb 16, 2004)

I am considering converting this bike to a 1 by 9. The horizontal dropout may cause some issues but this frame is nice and stiff.


----------



## Guest (Nov 22, 2006)

you can make the horizonal drops work.

get a Saint or Hone RD and you will be set. any RD that mounts to the axle instead of a dropout will work. a while back someone said that 06 Hone stuff was getting blown out cheap, but i couldn't find any. was thinking of doing a similar 1x9 setup on my wife's Surly 1X1.


----------



## Prorallye (Apr 12, 2005)

Guys,

I'm gonna go the 1x9 route also. I'm gonna do this on a new Mojo when it comes in and I want to see if I can use a short cage XO derailleur with a 11-34 cassette. Would this work or would I have to use a Medium length cage? I'd like to get the chain as short as I can to help alleviate chain slap. Might even consider a 11-32 cassette if I have to go to that.

Cheers,

Brian


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

Brian,

Short cage will most definitely work (I use one). For a very good explanation why, check out Speedub.Nate's words (second post in thread link below):

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=2018770#poststop

I run a 32t up front with a 11/34 cassette. That seems to be the most common, all-purpose 1x9 setup to handle typical XC (non-racing). I love it! Don't miss anyting at all on the granny or big ring.

Cheers, Chris


----------



## Prorallye (Apr 12, 2005)

Thanks Chris,

It's gonna be fun. Have to find an outer chain guide for the big ring too. Don't need a bash guard and would like it to be light.

Cheers,

Brian


----------



## Guest (Nov 22, 2006)

Prorallye...

try looking at the Spot Brand ring guards. they are light and come in many sizes/configurations. www.bikeman.com carries them.


----------



## kramonut (Jul 6, 2005)

Just finished putting it together a few minutes ago, shakedown ride should be Saturday.

'05 Medium Frame, CK Headset, '05 Marzocchi AM 3 130mm (air)
Hayes Mags 8" Fr, 6"R
Wheels & Pedals are spares from my Haro FS...really need some new wheels.
Nevegal 2.35 Rear, Blue Groove 2.35 Front
Hussefelts, DH BB, e13 bash, 32T chainring, N-Gear Jumpstop, PC971 w/ gold powerlink
X.9 RD & Trigger
Thomson X4 70mm stem, Deity Bars, ODI/Intense grips
Thomson Seatpost, Titec El Norte seat

After I work the bugs out I'm expecting it to be a fun ride.


----------



## tozovr (Jul 26, 2006)

'04 Trek liquid 30 Frame and Fox Talas RL
Mavic Deetrax
WTB Weirwolf 2.3's
Race Face Diablous stem
Answer Protaper Bars
Avid BB7's
Full metal Jacket housings
Speed Dial 7 levers
Manitou Sherman
XT Cranks
XT rear der
SRAM powerlink chain

When I first built it up I was running 2x9...tried 1x9 but no dice without a guide. Got the e13 SRS and ran a 32t XT ring with the 11-34 rear cassette. Just got a new bash and a Salsa 36t ring. When running 2x9 I was dropping the chain on even smaller jumps. All nice and dandy now.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

nice to see some other FS rigs representing, 1x9 is the future babey


----------



## Guest (Dec 3, 2006)

i wouldn't say 1X9 is the future... but it definitely is good for me.

the wife and i were riding our 1X9's today. 40 miles and 7K feet ascent.


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

*My baby...*

Well, after frankensteining a 1x9 for a while to see if I'd like it, I finally got all the parts and did it "right". 05 Blur Classic with an 07 X.0 trigger, 07 X.0 short-cage RD, new PG990 11/34t cassette, 32t ring up front with a e.13 Supercharger bashie and Blackspire inner plate. Also put on some Paul Love Levers for Avid mechs and installed full-length Flak Jackets all around (courtesy of my new favorrite tool - Dremel!). And for good measure, some nice matching Hope bling-bling (seatpost clamp, skewers, and grip plugs), and a schweeet Incredibell CleverLever bell. Lovin' it!










1x9 is drivetrain NIRVANA! Why on earth did I not do this looonggg ago? Rot in hell, stupid front derailleur...

:thumbsup: Chris


----------



## tozovr (Jul 26, 2006)

So today was my first real outing with the 36t front ring...really liked it.

That Santa Cruz is very very nice!


----------



## Guest (Dec 4, 2006)

man... if you can climb with a 36 you are pretty darn strong!

i actually have 2 30T rings on order from Extralite. i want to get a bit lower gearing on the Niner for Counting Coup in the spring.


----------



## tozovr (Jul 26, 2006)

mechmann_mtb said:


> man... if you can climb with a 36 you are pretty darn strong!
> 
> i actually have 2 30T rings on order from Extralite. i want to get a bit lower gearing on the Niner for Counting Coup in the spring.


I'm a 215# stone mason by trade LOL...I'm all torque.

on some of the steeeeep stuff today I suffered at first...kind of like relearning your shift patterns.


----------



## Guest (Dec 4, 2006)

very cool. i am similar in that i keep a lower cadence and have quite a bit of torque (from weightlifting background)

to keep things on topic, a couple of pics of today on my Monster 1X9...


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

mechmann_mtb said:


> man... if you can climb with a 36 you are pretty darn strong!
> 
> i actually have 2 30T rings on order from Extralite. i want to get a bit lower gearing on the Niner for Counting Coup in the spring.


i guess everyone's definition of "climb" is different 

i'm with you on the 30T, i like going after the steepest stuff i can find and even my 32T is lacking in low end grunt in some places


----------



## E ! (Jan 15, 2005)

*My experience with 1x9*

Truth be told. Unless running a true upper and lower type tensioner on your front chainring, 1 x9 is not ideal. Pick the gear you run most and then go one gear higher from there. Boom, you got single speed. One is all you need for riding your local trails. if its to tough of a "climb" you will grow into it. I give 2 thumbs down to 1x9 conversions.
Just my 2 cents.


----------



## tozovr (Jul 26, 2006)

E ! said:


> Truth be told. Unless running a true upper and lower type tensioner on your front chainring, 1 x9 is not ideal. Pick the gear you run most and then go one gear higher from there. Boom, you got single speed. One is all you need for riding your local trails. if its to tough of a "climb" you will grow into it. I give 2 thumbs down to 1x9 conversions.
> Just my 2 cents.


With the e13 SRS I've had zero chaindrop issues. I ride with quite a few Single Speeders and like the setup, but the 1x9 really adds an extra dimension.


----------



## Guest (Dec 4, 2006)

I have ridden lots of places and seen lots of people riding single speeds. For most of the people I have seen riding them, it is about an attitude and not the gears.

I don't feel that I need to handicap myself to a single gear for a significant portion of my riding. I do occasionally ride a SS (either my SIR9 without cassette, or my wife's Surly 1X1). 

I use all of my gears, I spend a lot of time climbing in my 34T cog, on super tech stuff i think 30T is the best gear for me, but on flats I am further out on the cassette, and downhills I often drop down to 11T on the back. 

It takes a special rider to ride a single speed over 44 miles and 8K feet of climbing. If you can beat me in the Counting Coup on a SS you are a much better rider than me, it doesn't mean that my 1X9 is not a good solution/drivetrain.

The other argument that shifting is somehow distracting or detracts from the experience is wasted on me. My drivetrain shifts perfectly and I have more than enough mental capacity to shift gears (the mech in my login is for mechanical engineer).


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

As the original poster of this thread, I appreciate mechmann's statement and agree wholeheartedly. I suppose if you ride smooth paths, one gear is all you need. Otherwise, you're gonna need more gears or get off and push, no matter how strong you are.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

please don't bring that SS brainwashing into here, this thread is about 1x9, not about simplistic and limiting designs such as those used on child's bikes. you have your own forum for that, use it


----------



## Vecsus (Apr 17, 2004)

E ! said:


> Truth be told. Unless running a true upper and lower type tensioner on your front chainring, 1 x9 is not ideal. Pick the gear you run most and then go one gear higher from there. Boom, you got single speed. One is all you need for riding your local trails. if its to tough of a "climb" you will grow into it. I give 2 thumbs down to 1x9 conversions.
> Just my 2 cents.


I counter your two thumbs down with my two thumbs up, thereby negating your opinion. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

One might be all anyone NEEDS but I happen to WANT 9. Fulfilling a want is much more satisfying a need. Think back to those crappy christmas presents you got - socks and underwear are things you needed. But what you really wanted was the red rider bb gun with a compass in the stock. :devil:


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

Vecsus said:


> But what you really wanted was the red rider bb gun with a compass in the stock. :devil:


You'll shoot you eye out kid!

/obligatory


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

My setup:

Shimano Dura-ace shifter with rear mech, SRAM PC-990 Cassette, N-Stop and Custom Gecko Crossings Bash Guard.


----------



## jcayce (Nov 27, 2006)

My current build-up will be a 1X9 but I've been running a couple of my frames with non-traditional set-ups including my Trek 8500LT (2x9), Specialized P.3, and my old race frame GT STS-1000(1x8). There are a lot more of us out there than you think and we have been doing it for years (since 1998 on my GT). If you don't see us on the trails, look for someone with really freakin' big calves walking around...

My new build-up is a Jamis Dakar XLT 3.0/XTR M950 crankset/32 tooth XTR chainring/XTR 112.5mm bottom bracket/Sram X.0 rear derailleur/Sram X.0 shifter. I'll post pictures when I get a chance. In the meantime here are some of the stable:


----------



## grnxb (Jan 8, 2006)

*went to 1X9 and am encountering problems*

I recently went to 1 x 9, and shortened the chain. I also added washers so the chainring bolts would still tighten. I then had problems with the chain coming off when in the lower two gears, and then screwed the "b" screw all the way in, and still no good. The chain only comes off in the lower two gears and and I don't think the Jump stop would fix it as the chain doesn't come off towards the granny, it goes off toward the right.

Any thoughts as to what I can do to fix this.?


----------



## GTV8 (May 5, 2006)

Maybe try installing a bashguard, it would bolt in place of where your large ring use to be. You can find some pretty light weight ones if you don't need the extra protection. This would help protect the chain from the right and the jump stop would help from the left.


----------



## energetix (Feb 4, 2006)

I encountered a similar problem - I mounted a bashie, shortened the chain, did the b screw thing and now my chain only seems to fall off if I go coast downhill (usually a rocky sort of track). I've still got the granny there at the moment and it doesn't matter what gear I'm in on the cassette it still does it, but generally just falls onto the granny.It's not a problem as long as I'm pedalling usually.
I'm waiting on Phantom Cycles to get some of these in, and I'll be putting it on in place of the granny hopefully:

https://www.straitlinecomponents.com/products/inner_rings.php


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

the following recipe eliminated ALL chain drops on my setup:

-medium cage deraileur
-shorten chain significantly
-inner guard
-outer guard

and run a few sizes big on the guards, like a 38/36 combo for a 32T ring for example


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

energetix said:


> I'm waiting on Phantom Cycles to get some of these in, and I'll be putting it on in place of the granny hopefully:
> 
> https://www.straitlinecomponents.com/products/inner_rings.php


That's a great idea. Now I wish they, or anybody, would make upgrade levers for Avid Mechanicals. That's my Christmas Wish.


----------



## tozovr (Jul 26, 2006)

The biggest issue I had on my Liquid 30 was the fact that my old 3'rd eye chain watcher 
wouldn't fit (worked great on my Surly). 









I would always drop the chainwhen I went to bigger rear gears. So I tried one these (got it from a fella on the 29er forum here).










It didn't work. the lexan specd was just too thin.









I had to go with the e13...









By the way, avid mech levers you say? Dangerboy delivers...









The only bad thing I can see with them is there's no speed dial type adjustment.

RJ


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

I dig the Homebrew innerguard! That's pretty slick...

The Straightline inner plate is very cool looking, but won't be available in the US until at least late Jan 07.

I use a Blackspire Blackguard inner plate with my 36t-max e.13 Supercharger. No rub, no noise, no jump with a 32t ring up front and 11/34 cassette.

For my Avid mechs, I just recently installed some Paul Love Levers. Beautiful, simple design! 

Cheers, Chris


----------



## tozovr (Jul 26, 2006)

Chris130 said:


> I dig the Homebrew innerguard! That's pretty slick...
> 
> The Straightline inner plate is very cool looking, but won't be available in the US until at least late Jan 07.
> 
> ...


I think the inner guard would have worked better if I had a bit better chainline...the 68mm BB was teh wrong one...with the current 73 I think it may have worked.


----------



## Guest (Dec 8, 2006)

depends on what you want.

for XC riding, a modified Rohloff is the best thing there is...










for more agressive stuff the MRP mini-me is the absolute best. on my DH bike i am using a mini-me with a blackspire stinger.










the N-gear works well when setup right, but the adjustment can get knocked around some by an agressive rider and will drop the chain eventually.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

tozovr said:


> By the way, avid mech levers you say? Dangerboy delivers...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I should clarify myself....I want replacement BLADES to put on my Speed Dial 7 Ti lever bodies like StraightLine does for the hydro levers. Probably impossible but it seems like that's a large untapped market. I mean, how many pairs of Speed Dial levers are being used & abused?


----------



## Guest (Dec 8, 2006)

come on now. just get HYDRO's!! 

you could always do a full custom, one-off set of levers for yourself. send someone (like me) a lever to model, figure out how to customize and pimp it out, then get a machine shop to blast them out on a machining center. should only cost you an arm and a leg


----------



## tozovr (Jul 26, 2006)

mechmann_mtb said:


> come on now. just get HYDRO's!!
> 
> you could always do a full custom, one-off set of levers for yourself. send someone (like me) a lever to model, figure out how to customize and pimp it out, then get a machine shop to blast them out on a machining center. should only cost you an arm and a leg


I have a set of hayes 9's going on this monday LOL.


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

What is the most lightweight solution for chain retention? Can you use a front derailleur with no cable and the limit screws screwed all the way in? Is that a lightweight solution? Does it work?


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

Killroy said:


> What is the most lightweight solution for chain retention? Can you use a front derailleur with no cable and the limit screws screwed all the way in? Is that a lightweight solution? Does it work?


I'd say the fang or the n-gear jumpstop are probably lighter than a derailleur. I use the jumpstop and it works great!


----------



## energetix (Feb 4, 2006)

I agree that the derailleur was heavier than I thought it would be (shimano deore). And yes it does work as chain retention - my chain problems only started once I took the derailleur off, prior to that I had only put the bashie on and didn't adjust anything, it was all fine and dandy.
The little bugger always gets so dirty and dust in the hard to clean places, plus if the granny wasn't there the temptation to use it when I could do without would be gone - that was my train of thought anyway.


----------



## tozovr (Jul 26, 2006)

See we're also talking about two different things here. Well two types of retention...When I first went 1x9 I would lose the chain when I shifted to the lower gears out back. Even when I began running my front derailier I was losing the chain when jumping and on rougher sections of the trail.

The e13 LG1 is one of the lightest and most effecient setups around for true chain retention. If you're only losing the chain because of chainline through the gears, then the Rolhoff, the 3rd eye/fang etc are even better options as they weigh very little.


----------



## Guest (Dec 10, 2006)

tozovr... 

i don't know for sure, but i would guess that the MRP mini me with blackspire stinger is as light if not lighter than the E13 LG1.

the rohloff is good for bashing through rock gardens on the hardtail (at least for me). the N-gear mostly works (for price and weight it is hard to beat) but will move and eventually drop the chain when riding hard and fast through really rough terrain.

the 3rd eye/fang thing is garbage IMO. waste of money.


----------



## tozovr (Jul 26, 2006)

mechmann_mtb said:


> tozovr...
> 
> i don't know for sure, but i would guess that the MRP mini me with blackspire stinger is as light if not lighter than the E13 LG1.
> 
> ...


I meant to lump the MRP mini in with the other minimalist/non-pulley systems, my bad. The 3rd eye is junk but I've run it with decent results while waiting for a different setup.


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

tozovr said:


> I meant to lump the MRP mini in with the other minimalist/non-pulley systems, my bad. The 3rd eye is junk but I've run it with decent results while waiting for a different setup.


Your post seem contradictory. The third eye is junk, but you had decent results. It makes it sound like a good design and a good buy. Functional and inexpensive are good things. Right?


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

E13 LG1 is 195 g (http://www.silverfish-uk.com/conten...rformance-bike-components.php?articleshow=515)

A XT front D is ~140g. A front derailleur will not be good for the freeride type, but will it function well for a XC race. 'Don't want to loose time due to a dropped chain.

What is the lightest bash guard weigh? Is a bash guard plus a 3rd eye lighter than a front derailleur.


----------



## Guest (Dec 10, 2006)

i repeat!

lightest/best solution for XC...










second best solution is to have a light ring guard...

https://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/SSCH/CR8015

and a N-gear Jumpstop.


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

Killroy said:


> Functional and inexpensive are good things. Right?


ah HAHAHA, I see you're new here! welcome to mtbr.com where the rationalization of spending too much is exalted to a level of religious sanctity.

remember, if there is some way to spend 10x as much to get the job done, any other way of doing it is absolute crap™

That $12 threaded rod, bolt and washer setup is totally inferior in every way to a nice $150 park headset press.
That rohloff chain guide for $60 is far superior in every way to the $8 fang.

and so on...


----------



## umbertom (May 28, 2006)

does anyone have a good idea on how to make a kona coiler a 1x9 without using a full on chain-guide? A jump-stop doesn't fit and an inner bash guard plate won't clear the chain stay
thanks


----------



## tozovr (Jul 26, 2006)

Killroy said:


> Your post seem contradictory. The third eye is junk, but you had decent results. It makes it sound like a good design and a good buy. Functional and inexpensive are good things. Right?


yeah I should have conneceted my posts. To keep the chain on there for chainline, it works great. It worked well on my surly hardtail...once I went to the full suspension it didn't work at all (not functionality, it just wouldn't mount low enough on the seatpost tube). A front drailieur wouldn't keep the chain on in the rough stuff for me.


----------



## Guest (Dec 11, 2006)

umbertom...

seems to me you are kind of stuck. if you can't use a N-gear/Rohloff then the only other real option is something like an MRP Mini me. what size ring are you using up front? if you have a tight chainline with a big ring, that could be the problem. might have to adjust the chainline or compromise with a smaller ring.

finger51...

deda dog fang is a crappy design(period) the N-gear works(much better design than the dog crap thing), but has some short comings. the Rohloff is really in a class of it's own for retention (as long as it is set up correctly). the only thing that is as good as the Rohloff are some of the home-made solutions other MTBR members have done (Cloxxi and Shiggy are two). the plastic inner plate thing is cool, but i don't think it is robust enough. for really rough stuff, MRP is best followed by E-13 etc.

RE: spending 10x what is necessary... does this mean that all the posers are going to give up their expensive FS bikes and ride like real men on HT and rigid since they are way cheaper and get the job done??  for that matter, we should all just go back to steel klunker single speeds because after all, they do get the job done. WRONG. i buy the Rohloff at 60 dollars because it would cost me more to fab my own design. much easier to modify existing components than manufacture from scratch. 

what car do you drive? do you spend more than you really need to for your home? our bikes are a reflection of their rider, sometimes it costs a bit extra to express yourself. if you have the scratch to do so, kudos to you.


----------



## umbertom (May 28, 2006)

mechmann_mtb said:


> umbertom...
> 
> seems to me you are kind of stuck. if you can't use a N-gear/Rohloff then the only other real option is something like an MRP Mini me. what size ring are you using up front? if you have a tight chainline with a big ring, that could be the problem. might have to adjust the chainline or compromise with a smaller ring.


it's currently a 22/32/bash x 9, and I'm thinking that if i just keep the chain tight enough with a short enough chain i might not have any trouble with the chain coming off
i'll just keep the bike the way it is for a while


----------



## Guest (Dec 11, 2006)

if you are using 2x9 then MIP makes the LRP which is a chain guide for use with a FD and 2 rings.

if want to go 1x9 on a coiler (pretty stout AM bike, could be used for FR/DH) i would suggest the MRP Mini-me for sure. i had my Mini-me on my Enduro before i put it on the Socom. it isn't that heavy, and it is IMPOSSIBLE to drop the chain.


----------



## dougmint (Oct 29, 2006)

*My 1x9 (1x7) is finally finished*

Here's a picture of my vintage steel Rigid DB. I set it up as a 1x7. Total weight came in at 25.5 lbs.

New parts
Mavic Crossmax Enduro UST wheels
Kenda Nevegal UST 2.1 tires
Thomson Elite seat post
Fizik Plateau saddle
FSA XC-190 handle bar
SRAM 12-32 cassette
SRAM chain
Salsa 34T chainring
N-Gear Jump Stop
Bone Ring Thing bash guard
Shimano 520 pedals

Original parts:
Shimano LX crank, rr derailleur
Dia Compe cantalever brakes


----------



## Guest (Dec 17, 2006)

old school baby! YEAH!

where are the hot pink parts???!!!???!!


----------



## euroford (Sep 10, 2006)

love the 1x9. hollzfeller (sp? whatevr) single spead cranks, mrp s3 guide, pg990 cassette, pg991 chain, x.9 shift/der, surly 36t steel chainring.


----------



## Asahi (Jan 30, 2004)

mechmann_mtb said:


> depends on what you want.
> 
> for XC riding, a modified Rohloff is the best thing there is...


What's modified? I tried to install one of these on my 1x9 Titus Riddler and the chainline of the Rolhoff will not work with the Riddler with the chain in the middler ring position where I need it.


----------



## Guest (Dec 22, 2006)

Asahi...

what i did was cut the posts that go between the guide and the clamp (the pieces that the screws thread into). i used a lathe and cut about .2" off of them, maybe a tad more. i also drilled a new hole for the bottom screw/spacer/nut and counter sunk it, then reshaped the guide plates after re-installing the screw in the new hole. this allowed me to mount the guide much lower as they were initially hitting the chainstays, which gives it much better chain retention characteristics. while i was at it, i tapped the inside plate and got rid of the nut (cleaner and lighter).

all in all it took a couple of hours in the machine shop to modify-install-modify-install (repeat) and get it where i wanted. the tools i used were a lathe, drill press, tap, belt sander. the same job could be done without a lathe if you don't mind using a V-block to hold the posts square to a disk sander. the drill press is handy to get the countersink square, but you could use a cordless drill.

all of this could also be done with a dremel tool and JB Weld.  that is how i got through engineering school!!!! :thumbsup:


----------



## Andy-O (Jun 19, 2006)

*Fresh off a morning ride...*

So I decided to go 1x9 after never using the granny or big ring on my new Fisher. Both 1x9 and 29 inch wheels are new to me, and I'm really liking things so far. It's a lot cleaner. Many thanks to mechmann for steering me toward the N-Stop and Spot ring guard. Not one chain issue to date! :thumbsup:

The light isn't great, and I still need to resize an extended screw, but you get the idea.


----------



## SBK (Oct 18, 2006)

*Giant Trance 1x9*

Here's a 1x9 setup that I am experimenting with on a Giant Trance. Modified Ti bashring and an N-Gear Jumpstop do the chain-retention duties. I have the stock RaceFace middle ring on for the moment, but have a Boone Ti singlespeed chainring inbound for installation soon:










More details on my modified bashring(s) and other lightweight outer chainring guards can be found over in the "Save Some Weight" forum under the *Light weight bash guard* thread. FWIW, these lightweight 1x9 conversions (or better yet, the uber-light setup like mechmann's righ) can take some significant mass off your ride.

I have posted a much more detailed set of photos and description over in the MTBR/Giant forum at *this link* for those interested in the specifics of my setup.


----------



## Mason71 (Nov 16, 2006)

6 dollar homemade lexan plates...


















Thanks to the Professor...










Awesome!!


----------



## tozovr (Jul 26, 2006)

Mason71 said:


> 6 dollar homemade lexan plates...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Did you make an inner and an outer? What thickness lexan did you use? When I did this my 11-34 spread was a little too much and when I'd get near the 34t rear cog I'd drop the chain up front, even with the inner lexan ring.


----------



## Guest (Dec 30, 2006)

Andy-O

glad to see you are having fun with it!!!

after putting the 29er Nevegals on my Niner i wanted a lower gear so i put a Extralite 30T ring on the front. i have also rigged up a modified rohloff to work with the ring guard. so far i have not dropped the chain at all, but i think i still have some modifications to make before it is finished. btw... these 29er Nevegals are really sweet! i cleaned one of the tricky spots on a local trail today and never spun a tire! (always spun before with the Exi's)


will post pics after todays ride.


----------



## Mason71 (Nov 16, 2006)

I believe it was .085, I got the 8x10 lexan plates at Lowes. on the inner plate i had to drill out the holes bigger so the plate would suck up closer to the chain ring. i got chain suck on my first ride, but after that they have been awesome!! I shaved the inner part of the inner plate so the chain wouldn't come off (just a precautionary move)



















Just print out the Professor's diagram on a full page setting and double check the scale with a ruler when it comes out, i didn't use a pdf file


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

those lexan plates seem like a nice budget solution, although to be honest they aren't much to look at  

i also think i would have made them a bit larger to protect the ring and chain against rock edge impacts, because it looks like your chain sits right on the outer edge, but for less technical/rocky riding it's probably not much of an issue


----------



## Cyco-Dude (Feb 12, 2004)

there is no way thin lexan like that would be able to protect against rock impacts; it would just crack. commercial lexan bash guards are very, very thick.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Wow. Thanks for the great replies and discussion.
For the New Year I've decided to trim a few ounces off the hunk 'o-luminum that I ride. Here's the new chainguard I got from sis for Christmas. It replaces the stock Truvativ ring. Half the thickness. Less than half the weight. Thanks Sis!










BTW, that Lexan ring would have to be classified as a chainGUIDE, not a chainGUARD. We all know it ain't guarding nothin'.


----------



## MassPride (May 25, 2006)




----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

MassPride,

Nice setup; my RD cable lost the cap and blew out like that on my very first ride after I hung it. Grrr. Hard to get caps to stay on once it's all frayed out. I used the shrink-tube technique (courtesy of Speedub.Nate) to fix it up, and that's worked like a champ. If you get sick of getting pricked by the loose cables, I recommend that as a good fixie :thumbsup: 

Cheers, Chris


----------



## Guest (Dec 31, 2006)

i failed to have the wife photograph my modified Rohloff so i can't post any detail pics. she did get a couple of good shots on our ride yesterday though...

sequence shot of one of the tough switchbacks. i have only cleaned this spot two or three times. much nicer with the new tires!










a little airtime










lookout!!! coming at you praying mantis style!!!!!


----------



## Andy-O (Jun 19, 2006)

mechmann_mtb said:


> Andy-O
> 
> glad to see you are having fun with it!!!
> 
> ...


Well I would have never gone through with it without a solid tutorial. Thanks again.
How is the rolling resistance on the flats with those Navegals? I've been looking at those. I think my stock tread is a little weak, but it does roll fast.


----------



## Guest (Dec 31, 2006)

as far as i am concerned, any slight increase in rolling resistance is worth all the traction gained! the Panaracer Rampage has smaller and lower profile lugs and might yeild a bit better rolling resistance, i have one but have not ridden on it yet. i am also going to keep at least one Exiwolf, it might come in handy if the Counting Coup is fairly dry this year...


----------



## deanmachine (Feb 25, 2006)

*Surly 1x9 KM*

Es71bb,2006 Deore Crank,blackspire 32 T Chainring,xtr Rear Derailleur,blackspire Supergod Bashring,xt/ultegra Chain


----------



## Guest (Dec 31, 2006)

deanmachine...

nice stuff. you can improve that setup with a short cage RD. less chain and less chain slap with the shorter RD.

have fun!


----------



## deanmachine (Feb 25, 2006)

Thanks for the advice.I run a 34 tooth cog on the rear cassette.Can I use a short cage with that setup?
I kind of wish I put a five arm crank so I could run a 30 tooth chainring or smaller.The bike is still great for Ohio riding.


----------



## SBK (Oct 18, 2006)

deanmachine said:


> Thanks for the advice.I run a 34 tooth cog on the rear cassette.Can I use a short cage with that setup?


Nate's post *HERE* is an excellent reference post right here on MTBR, giving the details behind the answer (YES!) to your question. My setup is 32T/11-34T and I will be installing a short cage sometime in the next couple weeks to allow for a shorter chain, etc.

Here's an updated pic of my 1x9 conversion, after swapping the original ramped/pinned RaceFace middle ring for a nice Boone Ti singlespeed chainring. The ramped/pinned actually worked great in practice, even on gnarly downhills and climbs, but I already had the singlespeed-style ring inbound and figured it provides better chain engagement for those times where I'm up out of the saddle hammering the steep stuff. The Boone rings are pure artwork IMHO, it's a damn shame to hide it behind a chainguide/bash - at least in this case it's a Ti bash protecting that purty ring.


----------



## Guest (Jan 1, 2007)

yeah, what he said.

you can run a short cage (or medium cage if running shimano xt or xtr).

you can also have a 30T chainring on a 104bcd 4 arm crank (standard shimano). Extralite makes it and they work well. requires a tiny bit of grinding on the crank arms but is really nice and super light. the only way i was able to get one recently was to order it directly from Extralite.


----------



## SBK (Oct 18, 2006)

Sorry mechmann, didn't mean to jump in the middle, I just saw dm's question and had recently been reading Nate's post again so I figured I'd drop the link in this thread. 

Thanks much for your posts, pics and info on the Rolhoff setup here and else where too. I plan to try that type of chain control on another 1x9 that I'm planning to set up on my hardtail. It's currently got an older XTR M952 setup, and I have a Boone spiderless chainring for it like on your wife's Middleburn config. The Rolhoff or a homebrew version of that same type of thing looks like the best option for that bike, I may PM you with some additional questions once that starts to come together. 

Thanks for your posts, as well as the others who've chimed in here with info, pics, and ideas.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

SBK said:


> ...
> at least in this case it's a Ti bash protecting that purty ring.


nice setup, it sure is purty, although the chain seems a bit shallow for my preference, especially with no inner guard (at least it would appear). why not have the guard a bit bigger, not much of a weight penalty and it would offer more protection against sharp rock edges and chain drops from rougher riding conditions.


----------



## UberFly (Apr 10, 2006)

How about using a Road double front derailleur as a chainguide? Install it with no cable, adjust the limit screws, and move the derailleur clamp to the correct position to hold the chain on the middle ring. It should work with or without a bash ring. I'm thinking it could be a low cost Rohloff type guide. You could also remove a good deal of material and get its weight down considering most clamp on derailleurs start at about 100g. 

I'm going to do a 1x9 conversion on my Trance 1 but I don't want to use bash rings if I can avoid it.


----------



## Guest (Jan 3, 2007)

If you can get away without using a bash ring you can use a FD. They are heavier and probably cost more than a Rohloff though. 

I can't get away with not having a ring guard of some type. I would destroy chainrings all the time. The Spot Brand ring guards are light but effective.


----------



## tozovr (Jul 26, 2006)

mechmann_mtb said:


> If you can get away without using a bash ring you can use a FD. They are heavier and probably cost more than a Rohloff though.
> 
> I can't get away with not having a ring guard of some type. I would destroy chainrings all the time. The Spot Brand ring guards are light but effective.


I used a FD with a bash with no problems before I got the SRS


----------



## Guest (Jan 3, 2007)

toz...

thanks for the correction. 

so the bottom line is that you can pay more
and weigh more
and use a FD to retain your chain.

man, i feel like a poet now.


----------



## jcayce (Nov 27, 2006)

*jamis dakar xlt 3.0 1X9*

As promised, pictures of the Jamis build-up so far:


----------



## tozovr (Jul 26, 2006)

mechmann_mtb said:


> toz...
> 
> thanks for the correction.
> 
> ...


For me it all came down to the princeple of it all LOL. I just couldn't bear to have an FD there not doing anything....may as well hook a shifter up. 2x9 wasn't so bad, but again, I just found myself on the 32t. I rode yesterday...wasn't feeling so fantastic and I sure was wishing my Salsa 36t was a 32t LOL


----------



## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

*One niner*

My one niner: C'dale CAAD5 , 11-34 with a front 33.
I've put an old Ultegra front derailler as a chain guide , just cutted extra plate. Cheap , light , effective.


----------



## euroford (Sep 10, 2006)

jcayce said:


> As promised, pictures of the Jamis build-up so far:


i would definitly think that an XLT 3.0 would be a build worthy of going with the more deluxe solution of a real bashguard/chainguide setup such as an MRP or E.13.


----------



## RageHardIntoTheBendies (May 1, 2006)

Been playing with my 1x8 setup for a while, and have tried various solutions to keep the chain from hopping off the inside.

I liked the inner ring Idea but the chain stay on my Stinky is quite close to the chainring allready. While cleaning my bike last time I rigged up an old 6" brake rotor as the inner ring.

Will be giveing a try this weekend to see how well it works. Anyone else tried this before?


----------



## euroford (Sep 10, 2006)

i deceided i should try a 34t chainring down from the 36t ring shown above. since my MRP S3 chainguide/bashring is a 36t min. setup i installed a MRP Basher bashring (34t max) and a blacksprire mono-veloce 34t ring.

the bottom line, replacing the 36t-42t MRP bashring and Surly 36t saved me 4oz. of weight and the drivetrain runs MUCH smoother! the stainless steel surly chainring was very thin, becouse of this i think i always had a bit of a screwy chainline, i had to shim over my MRP's rollers to get it halfway smooth. perhaps also the guide just works very nicely with a bashguard and chainring so perfectly sized to each other.

i also think the blackspire ring is machined much better than the surly. i think those surly rings are really best for single speed setups. the shape of the teeth might couse some binding when pulling off center.

anyways, i really was 90% thrilled with my setup before, now i'd say i'm firmly into the 100% catagory.

i'll post another pic when i get around to taking one.


----------



## Vecsus (Apr 17, 2004)

I went on a couple rides with the N-Gear jumpstop but still had a couple dropped chains when the chain hopped up and fell to the inside, past the jumpstop. I remembered seeing someone that made a device out of a clam, a post, and some coins (believe it was Cloxxi). So I decided to fashion my own. I had an old front derailleur to butcher and this is what I came up with. The logic being that the post over the chainring would prevent the chain from hopping up and the lexan plate takes care of any possible sideways movement...although that should not even be possible if the chain is unable to clear the teeth of the ring. I have not been able to ride on this yet so not sure if there will be any complications. Thoughts?


----------



## energetix (Feb 4, 2006)

Hey that looks great! Nice simple and neat, looks like it should do the job nicely.

I'm still waiting on my Straitline Inner Ring to get here!


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

looks good, the only thing i might recommend would be to round or angle the outside edge of the lexan so the chain does not catch on there which might be possible in a low gear


----------



## dropspace (Jan 1, 2007)

Here's some pics of a Haro V5 1x9 that I just built up. I think the V5 is an overlooked frame by a lot of riders because the V series is on the lower end of the price spectrum. But the V5 has great geomerty and feels very stable across the board. I pieced this bike together with some decent ebay buys and some end of the year specials at the various online bike shops. The frame was actually a new bike stripped for parts and I got it for 45 bucks which is a good place to start :thumbsup:

here's the high points:

X0 drivetrain w/race face cranks and a salsa ss ring
manitou R7 super w/remote lockout
avid bb7 brakes
dtswiss 4.2 rims and dtswiss rear hub...specialized stout front hub (the stock wheels off a sj fsr carbon, I guess someone felt the need to upgrade the wheels on a 5,000 dollar bike)
bontrager race stem and race face carbon riser bars / king headset
fizik saddle
panaracer fire xc tires

I don't feel the need for a fs bike in Texas and this fits the bill perfectly. Light, stable, fast, and great climbing characteristics....


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

Sweet! That's a beautiful rig! Nice work...

Cheers, Chris


----------



## jgsatl (Sep 16, 2006)

very nice looking ride!


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

42 tooth with a 11-34!

I have not tried 1X9 yet, but I wanted to try it for racing, except I wanted to use a big ring in the place of the middle, so that I can still have top end speed on not to hilly courses. I did not know how many teeth to run on the big ring 40, 42, 44 teeth with my 11-34 cassette for gearing range. I went down to my favorite race course CCCX at the same property as the Sea Otter and picked a 42 tooth big ring as a good compromise between fast gears and climbing gears. 42-34 sounds like a lot, but it is way better that SS.

All I have to do now is get short BMX chain ring bolts and modify/tune the XT cranks to accept a big ring in the middle ring position.


----------



## mtnbkr33 (Jul 19, 2005)

No the best pics of my set up but it is 1X9


----------



## Arkayne (Dec 14, 2005)




----------



## jcayce (Nov 27, 2006)

euroford said:


> i would definitly think that an XLT 3.0 would be a build worthy of going with the more deluxe solution of a real bashguard/chainguide setup such as an MRP or E.13.


I agree with the worthy comment and have done the MRP, E13, and even a full-on AC for my GT STS-1000. But in all reality, the Rohloff is all that I need and I can almost gurantee that it helped to keep my total build weight to 27.4 lbs. It is an uncomplicated system and now that I have it properly set-up, cannot fathom why I would need a bashguard for anything other than to add some weight.

I would like to say that I have never dropped a chain with this setup but that would be a lie. The first ride out after the build-up I kept "popping" the chain under power. The chain would "pop" off of the chainring and fall between the arm and ring after being forced through the space left between the guide and ring. At first I thought that it was a link binded up in the chain. I realized a day later when I was hosing it down that I had broken one of the aluminum chainring bolts and that the chainring was flexing under pressure. I took some time, un-inverted the spider, removed my homemade nylon spacers, and went with some original Shimano bolts. I originally inverted the spider as it looked like the chain would be riding on the end of the spider's arms. In the picture it looks like the chain hits the spider, but after a couple of days worth of riding, there is nary a mark on the end of the spider from the chain. I also got the perfect chainline to boot.


----------



## dirtrialstreet (Aug 1, 2006)

For *videos, pictures, and tutorials* go to: http://rivierariders.blogspot.com/


----------



## Guest (Feb 9, 2007)

jcayce...

nice setup! one thing that would be cleaner than what you have is to order yourself a Boone Ti ring to go spiderless on that sweet XTR crankset.


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

How important is chain line?

On my unfinished Rocky Team Scandium, I have a 50mm front chain line but, I think I could run 47.5 mm without my 42 ring rubbing. I just don't want to through down for a 113 mm bb right now.


----------



## energetix (Feb 4, 2006)

Well here she is: '06 Trance 3 with quite a few non stock bits:
XT brakes, ethirteen bashie with Envy Inner ring. Thomson stem & post, Race FAce Deus XC bar, DMR V12 mag pedals, Maxxis Advantage 2.4 up front & Michelin Hot S 2.2 up back. Specialized Avatar saddle. Trying out new cable routing to minimise flex & seat stay rub. And yes the brakes are new hence I still have to shorten some cables!
Absolutely love this bike!


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

Can you use a short cage rear dérailleur with a 1X9 and a 11-34???

Will the angle of the dérailleur linkage work with the pie plate 11-34??


----------



## dropspace (Jan 1, 2007)

yes

i have an X0 shorty on my 1x9 and it works great


----------



## jcayce (Nov 27, 2006)

mechmann_mtb said:


> jcayce...
> 
> nice setup! one thing that would be cleaner than what you have is to order yourself a Boone Ti ring to go spiderless on that sweet XTR crankset.


Thanks for the compliment, I've got a write-up of most of the build in the Jamis forum.

A couple of things:

1. I'm worried that if I go spiderless that it will throw off my chainline.
2. I'm worried about the XTR crankset holding up. I have about three solid rides on the Jamis and have had a couple of problems. The first was with the aforementioned chain popping which led to the chain forcing itself between the spider and the arm gouging the edge a little. This doesn't look like it really compromises the arm in any way but I'm worried about it though. The second problem was the non-drive crank arm working lose on a ride and me hobbling for a little while before I could get a chance to dismount and tighten it. The splines on the arm look okay although a little 'smooshed' and the BB looks untouched. The third problem and the one that I'm worried about most is when I torqued down on the crank arm bolts, I did so without the washer on the bolt. The bolts actually compressed the aluminum from the force of torquing it down and I'm worried about the integrity of the arm/bb interface. It's probably nothing, but I tend to over-worry things. I robbed some washers off of one of my trailer-queen bikes and reinstalled the bolts with some nylon pipe tape. If worse comes to worse, I'll be throwing on a new crankset, but like I said, it's probably just me worrying too much (a little OCD and AR). That would really suck as the crankset has about 50 miles on it.


----------



## Klein Freak (Jan 30, 2004)

Here are some pics I snapped of mine. It's an Iron Horse Azure I just built up (I want to try the DW-Link) with a Fox Talas RLC and CK wheels, thomson post/stem, SLR saddle, Easton Monkeylight, etc. Rear cassette is Ti XTR, shifter is '07 X9. Hoping I wont have any troubles with the chain dropping onto the BB, there's no good place on the seat tube for a jumpstop due to the pivot bracing.


----------



## tibug (Dec 5, 2006)

jumpin_joe2u said:


> I absolutely understand that some people's riding styles require bashrings....I'm not saying nobody should run one. I am just asking how many people are running bashrings combined with jump-stops, just to serve the purpose of chain retention.


I wasn't gonna get a bashring but since I got a triple crankset and then stripped the outer rings, I needed something to take up the extra space from the abscence of the big ring, so I used that as an excuse to get a bashguard.


----------



## Guest (Feb 18, 2007)

klein freak...

most people try to get away without a chain retention device at some point in time. some actually don't have a problem. it depends on how you ride and how rough the terrain is.

there may be some options for you like the inner ring that has been discussed.

good luck! nice bike!


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

just did my second 1x9, was a budget build 15" Dakar for a lady friend ($200 frame + $180 parts bike). it's a tad weighty but came out pretty decent considering the cost. mostly Truvativ parts with a Reba up front

1x9 is great way to introduce new riders to the sport, it's just so much easier for them

.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Klein Freak - 
I'm loving the look of that frame, especially the steeply sloping top tube with the reinforced seat tube. What was the frame weight?

I assume you just finished building this up. Don't forget to ziptie your brake line onto your seatstay. It may need a little shortening.










Also, Monday marks the 1 year anniversary of this thread. Thanks to everybody for making this a great thread, especially the frequent contributors like mechmann, shayne, adamantane, jumpin_joe and salimoneus. Mechmann_mtb could have carried on an entire conversation by himself with the volume of posts he's put on here.
I never had any idea this thread would top 200 posts, but it's evident that this topic is something that people are excited about and has served as a great source of information.

For this year, be sure to post pics of any upgrades you've made over the winter. As the singlespeed movement has gained speed, we've seen more and more single chainring crank assemblies that we can use. I'm especially envious of Middleburn cranks and Boone Ti chainrings.


----------



## Guest (Feb 18, 2007)

i too am envious of the Middleburn/Boone setup. the wife's bike is sickening to look at. we were at Chipotle yesterday after a half century and 8k ft ascent and another mntbkr was looking at it. he asked "how much did that thing cost?" wife says "i don't want to add it all up!" next question is always "how much does it weigh?". HAHAHA

i need to post up pics of my new setup on the Niner. i used the clamp and inner plate from a Rohloff guide with one spacer and a socket head cap screw. the spacer and SCHS keep the chain from going vertical and are almost touching my Spot brand ring guard. this setup is absolutely bullet proof. no more chain drop ever, and no frequent adjustment program like i had to do with the N-gear.

N-gear is nice, just not robust enough for me.


----------



## Guest (Feb 18, 2007)

here are some pics of the ride yesterday.

santiago peak looms in the distance. not much climbing left, but at this point we were well over 7k ft. for the day.










at the peak allison was taking pictures to celebrate the ride...










but i was wiped out!










Pretty girl, pretty bike, pretty view, awesome day!


----------



## climbbikeskione (May 28, 2006)

Sorry, no pictures here. I've been 1x9 for about a year and I can honestly say I doubt I'll ever go back for XC/AM riding. For my 39lb Hucker I'll keep the granny gear...but it's still 2x9...3x9 is ridiculous, and the industry may even go 3x10...I guess less durable and more broken parts means more income...For what it's worth here's my scoop: 1x9 was tough at first for the abrupt terrain I ride but has made me a much stronger and faster rider. It's funny how stuff I used to frantically shift for the granny to get over I don't even think about any more. The time for my standard trail ride used to be about 6.5mph average...less than a year later it's holding at about 7.6mph (even in my out of top form winter rides). On an hour trail that equates to 10 minutes faster. I also starting riding more Single Speed, so it's a very good trade off. There are only a couple drawbacks that I've encountered. _First_, It's not the best set up for marathon style races. In my opinion endurance racing is a situation where multiple gears are a necessary. When riding over 5hrs you never know when the legs will falter. I have tested the 1x9 set up on 2 seperate marathon races, the Laramie Enduro - 73miles and the Dakota 50 - 51 miles and it burned me both times. For reference I raced the 2005 Laramie Enduro 3x9 style, and placed 35 of over 280 entrants. In the 2006 race in 1x9setup, I was in the top 20 during the first 4.5 hours or 54miles but had a leg cramped induced horendous breakdown at mile 55. I finished 80th of 300 after laying on the trail for about an hour to recover. The problem was my legs needed the ease of the granny for the situation. I know there are single speeders rigid riders that ride in these events...The 3rd place winner of the LE 2006 rode rigid SS....I tell you what...they're sick...on a different level...they'd be even faster geared. _Second_, you may need a chainguide. I run very light weight Salsa chain ring protector and a very light weight Jump Stop brand chain stuck stopper. I have had only some chain loss even with this setup..only in lengthy techy downhills. _Here's my summary_...If you ride fairly flat or gradual terrain...this is the only way to go. If you have radical topography like here in the Black Hills of SD, I would still recommend the setup...It's simpler, lighter, more durable, and makes you a stronger rider overall...Less chain breakages in my experience as well....TRY IT, It just might work for you.

CHEERS!


----------



## campisi (Dec 20, 2004)

Here's my 1X9 setup -

SC Heckler 32T front with MRP system 1 chainguide, 34T out back. Been riding it for about a year and a half, never thrown the chain - Love it, wouldn't go back. I'm running the Isis Raceface crank arms with a Truvativ 68X113 DH BB and I'm not happy with the durability of the ISIS BBs (the bearings just don't hold up). I just now put in my 3rd BB in the year and a half of running this setup. First was a RaceFace BB, I just put the second of two OEM takeoff TV BB's on. May need to go with external bearing crankset? Any opinions or ideas? Click on the thumbnail for a bigger picture.


----------



## MattP. (Oct 3, 2005)

Stylos + 34T E 13 Guide Ring + E 13 SRS = Doin it


----------



## Guest (Feb 28, 2007)

nice setup!!!

i like the white pedals  i have red ones on my red Socom. they are sweet.


----------



## Zanetti (Sep 18, 2005)

My Litespeed with a 1x8 setup. Profile cranks with a 30 tooth ti chainwheel, 11-28 cassette.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Zanetti said:


> My Litespeed with a 1x8 setup. Profile cranks with a 30 tooth ti chainwheel, 11-28 cassette.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Zanetti (Sep 18, 2005)

Indiefab said:


> Zanetti said:
> 
> 
> > My Litespeed with a 1x8 setup. Profile cranks with a 30 tooth ti chainwheel, 11-28 cassette.
> ...


----------



## tolleyman (Mar 5, 2006)

*05 Blur 4X*

I've been running 1x9 for years.


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

Read my New Build thread:
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=2794644#post2794644


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

That is a lovely bike!


----------



## Guest (Mar 2, 2007)

nice bike. 

that is a big chainring on there! i wouldn't be able to climb alot of the steep stuff with that.


----------



## Guest (Mar 15, 2007)

1st XC race ever on the 1x9 last weekend...

some of the climbs were pretty steep and a lower gear might have helped a little...

https://www.photoreflect.com/script...hoto=0EFA001A000232&start=0&album=0&adjust=-1

but i still placed third...










as you can probably see in the picture, i was the oldest in my class and outweighed everyone else by at least 15lbs!  that is what happens when you are 7lbs below clydesdale!!!!! LOL

it was fun to go out and race. i was surprised at how fast the winner of the class was. i had a good battle going for second and might have taken the second spot with one less crash. had two little crashes, the first of which cost a bunch of time when i was trying to make a pass and the other racer turned into me as i passed sending us both off-course and down a ravine.


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

mechmann_mtb said:


> nice bike.
> 
> that is a big chainring on there! i wouldn't be able to climb alot of the steep stuff with that.


I won sport, Cool MTB race in Cool, CA with the 42 tooth, but there were some pitches that I felt like I was on a single speed.


----------



## whitelizard (Sep 25, 2005)

MTBDad said:


> I converted my Chester to a 1x8 set-up. Removed the smallest cog from the cassette because the Boone chainring I am using was built to sit in the 'outer' ring position and by adding a spacer behind the largest tooth, I was able to improve the chainline. My Smoothie is set-up as a 2x9, likely to also loose the smallest cog to lessen the cross chain effect. Here's the complete build.
> 
> Matt Chester Frame ( I believe the only vertical dropout Ute he ever built)
> Fox Vanilla RLC fork
> ...


You don't have any problems with the chain falling off? I see you are not running any chainguides of anything.

Thanks,


----------



## Guest (Mar 15, 2007)

Killroy said:


> I won sport, Cool MTB race in Cool, CA with the 42 tooth, but there were some pitches that I felt like I was on a single speed.


Congrats on the win! I think I might fare better in a longer race. The wife wants both of us to ride 8hr solo at the 24hrs of Hurkey Creek. We have done a lot of training for longer stuff like Counting Coup, I am too big to keep up with the little guys on sprint races.


----------



## Beolin (Apr 19, 2006)

My KHS Comp St, rigid in front with a tiny bit of travel from the soft tail in the back.


----------



## Guest (Mar 19, 2007)

Nice!

I still think that soft-tail is the ultimate for XC, although i think the KHS frames were a bit on the heavy side.

I so want one of the new Salsa Dos Niner frames for XC racing.


----------



## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Addict

203s weren't needed, back to the 160s.
Avid J7
Syncros Bearhug 50mm Stem
Titec Hellbent riser bars
SRAM x9 rear shifter
ODI Rogue lock-on grips
Some bar end caps I machined
Chris King headset
Rockshox Pike fork
Hadley front and rear (108pt) hubs laced to Atomlab Trailpimps with DT spokes.
Tubeless Holy Roller tires
Saint cranks
Kona Jackshit pedals
e13 SRS chainguide
Wipperman Connex 9x1 stainless steel chain
XTR cables and housing
XTR cassette
SRAM x9 super short cage rear derailleur
Hope QR seatpost clamp
Thomson 27.2x330 seatpost
WTB saddle

The lesser pride and joy.









She came from a mix of...

This









And this









They're all 1x9s.


----------



## Guest (Mar 27, 2007)

i figured i would post a pic of my "other" bike. (from the DH race at Fontana this weekend)










drivetrain consists of MRP mini-me plates (inside and out) with a blackspire stinger on the bottom.

pic courtesy of Winston


----------



## good medicine (Mar 28, 2007)

my 1x9
Salsa ala Carte
Surly 34t stainless front ring
Spot bash gard
XTR 9spd chain
XT 11-34 cassette
N-Gear jump stop

the rest of the running gear, RS Dukes, Avid V's came from a 2002 KHS Team St which I've converted to a single speed by having horizontal dropouts added 







nice work by Ewen Gellie, highly recommended for all kinds of repairs and modifications to steel bikes if you live in Melbourne, OZ
sa you can see, there's a deraileur hanger on the there too, I've been running it as a 3 speed with a friction shifter as well as singlespeed


----------



## Burrito Eater (Feb 26, 2007)

Edit: I am going to post this in a different place.


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

From this to this. Also swapped to a 29er rigid fork/front wheel, to give that a shot at the same time. Coming off the tall Pike, I actually steepened my head angle a little bit! It's a perfect frame to try the 69er/96er thing with. 

05 x.9 shifter/07 x.9 rear mech. Avid/Nokon housing hybrid. King rear hub, with 5mm allen bolted rear skewer. 12-34 9spd cassette, though only running 8 cogs; spacers taking up the slack on the freehub body. Simple, nice and light. 

Race Face Evolve XC crank/bb outboard setup, 32T ring, bashring/Jump-Stop setup. Left the small ring on, 'cause I was too lazy to take the cranks off to get to it. Plus, it's there in times of super weeniness if needed. If it gets no use, the next time I mess with the cranks, it'll get pulled. 

I love this bike. It's been rigid before, it's had a Z-150 on it riding the lifts at Keystone, it's done long high up epics; it's a real workhorse do it all bike. It's been 1x8/9 before too, and now it's back to it. Lock on grips rule! Super easy to pull stuff yesterday, with those on. And easy to put back if wanted. Extra crown race and rotor for the new fork/wheel setup means swapping back and forth if I want is painless, too.


----------



## Rontele (Apr 1, 2006)

I want to push a bashguard on my 6.6. I bought a 36T e13 guide. Was this the right choice? Should I have gone with a 32T?


----------



## Guest (Apr 1, 2007)

i am not sure that they make a 32T. the 36T is probably just fine. i personally like the lighter approach and use the MRP mini me plates or the Spot brand ring guard, but i have mentioned that a million times in this thread


----------



## Rontele (Apr 1, 2006)

Yeah, the e13 is burly, but I am a pretty big guy and intend to beat the crap out it trail riding.


----------



## neilvan (Jan 28, 2007)

Here is my recently built 1x9er...

I am probably going to change to Stans The Crow tubeless tires just to reduce the rotating weight considerably but it's pretty much done.

The build consists of Thomson stem and post, X0 shifter and derailleur, White Brothers carbon fork, MonkeyLite SL riser bar, Ultimate levers and BB7 calipers, DT TK7.1 rims, Hope hubs, 990 cassette and hollow-pin chain, Chris King headset, WTB Devo Carbon saddle, Truvativ Stylo SS 1.1 GXP MegaEXO cranks...


----------



## Rontele (Apr 1, 2006)

Here are some pics of my recently converted Mooto-X



























It rides great.


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

neilvan said:


> Here is my recently built 1x9er...


 the whole front end on that ride is perfect. Will I go to hell if I say a monk is sexy? screw it. THAT is one sexy monk! (heaven might have better singletrack but hell will have better beer)


----------



## Ty (May 20, 2004)

I have run a 1x5 Klein Attitude for around 8 years now !

I used to run a homemade chain guide (the one with the UK 5p coins - if anyone remembers) - but nowadays I just use a chainring with long teeth and loose a few links from my chain to tension the whole system up a little - no dropped chains for years !

But I only ride on the roads, no offroad with this bike.


----------



## Guest (Apr 17, 2007)

*beautiful!*

man... those are some pretty bikes. that monk is super clean and i still covet the YBB. very nice builds. :thumbsup:

a couple of weekends ago i busted my RD hanger, having to ride SS for two days at relatively high altitude gives me a better appreciation for my gears!! maybe some day i will have the fitness to stand up and climb 3k vertical without resting, then again maybe not... :madman:

i think i need to build a new FS 29er...


----------



## Ty (May 20, 2004)

1x5, currently being stripped apart / rebuilt.


----------



## djska (Jan 30, 2005)

Beautiful, but not even running a front brake? I had to run only one brake, I'd much rather keep the front brake!


----------



## Ty (May 20, 2004)

djska said:


> Beautiful, but not even running a front brake? I had to run only one brake, I'd much rather keep the front brake!


As I said in my post - _"1x5, currently being stripped apart / rebuilt."_ 

Two brakes for me !


----------



## Guest (Apr 22, 2007)

After all my positive comments about using the Extralite 30T chainrings, yesterday I had enough problems with mine to retract all previous positive comments and declare them CRAP!

:madmax: 

We went on a big ride in a large group (25mi with 14 riders) and 5 miles into the trail ride I stood up to crank up a rock face. I heard a pop and then it sounded like my bike was going to ghost shift, so I gave up on the climb and pushed up. Upon inspection, I had sheared off one of the crank bolt sockets on the chainring. There was nothing I could do to repair it trailside (or otherwise really), so one of the guys on the ride came up with putting zip ties on it to try and keep me pedaling.

The trail was a never ending steep down-steep up, then repeat. Twice on steep ups, while still trying to not push too hard on the cranks, I snapped the chain. The chain breakage was due to the chainring flexing and letting the chain get jammed into my rholoff chain guide. Finally, the last straw was another steep rock climb. I was extremely frustrated with my bike and decided to climb until the chain broke again, well this time more stuff broke...

The chainring shattered into three pieces, breaking the spider on my XT cranks along the way. :madman: 

At first I was going to just give up and walk, but agreed to steal the granny ring from the wife's bike and cob something together so I could pedal (like a freaking hamster on a wheel) and finish the ride. I did finish the ride, breaking my chain two more times along the way.

Now I need to find someone to manufacture a 30T 104BCD chainring out of steel or Ti... :skep: 

AND I need to replace my 1 yr old XT crankset :madman: :madmax: :madman: :madmax:


----------



## Guest (Apr 22, 2007)

pics of the carnage...

busted ring, nothing to smile about here...









busted crank spider









before removing crank, still has a piece of the ring attached









plenty of bystanders during the operation...









post-op, expensive breakage for sure!


----------



## mtbhermit (Mar 8, 2007)

XSL_WiLL said:


> Ohhh very nice bike,and great spec.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

After playing around with various combinations, I've ended up with a 38T e.thirteen Guide Ring, Shimano Ultegra 12T - 27T cassette and a short-cage derailleur. 
Shifting is from a Saint with Alligator cables and the chain is KMC's X9.93. I replaced the roller from the Truvativ Box Guide with sealed-bearing DMR version.
It took me a few days to get used to the Ultegra; the gears are so close and shifting so quiet and fast that I wasn't always sure that I'd even switched gear. The only down-side is that I miss the 11T sprocket, so next time I pull the cassette for cleaning I'll drop the sprocket from my old XT on.


----------



## disraeli (Mar 8, 2007)

SteveUK said:


> View attachment 254599
> 
> 
> After playing around with various combinations, I've ended up with a 38T e.thirteen Guide Ring, Shimano Ultegra 12T - 27T cassette and a short-cage derailleur.
> ...


Hi guys, you seem like just the folks to answer this for me. I thought I'd be okay with the tall gearing I'm showing in the pics but after a few rides, I think I want to drop some teeth in the front. What's the best option here with my current crankset? Also, this is just a guess but should my derailleur ever look like this? Thanks in advance. Wasn't sure if I should start a new thread but I AM posting pics of my 1x9.


----------



## Guest (Apr 22, 2007)

that is a pretty tight chain, might want to add one link back in just to give it enough slack to shift properly.

i know you can get custom Ti chainrings from Boone, other than that i don't know what options you have for that crank.


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

disraeli said:


> Hi guys, you seem like just the folks to answer this for me. I thought I'd be okay with the tall gearing I'm showing in the pics but after a few rides, I think I want to drop some teeth in the front. What's the best option here with my current crankset? Also, this is just a guess but should my derailleur ever look like this? Thanks in advance. Wasn't sure if I should start a new thread but I AM posting pics of my 1x9.


Unless you are doing somthing special that I dont know, your chain line is horibble! You need to mount the front chain ring in the middle ring possition. The cranks are designed to not let you mount a big ring in the middle position, so you are going to have to dremel the chain ring by the bolt hole to mount to the XTs. Also, this treads recomends using a DH or a SS ring becuase the lack of ramps and pins makes for a better 1x9 set up.

FYI I run XT cranks with a 40 tooth. Most people run 36t.


----------



## disraeli (Mar 8, 2007)

Killroy said:


> Unless you are doing somthing special that I dont know, your chain line is horibble! You need to mount the front chain ring in the middle ring possition. The cranks are designed to not let you mount a big ring in the middle position, so you are going to have to dremel the chain ring by the bolt hole to mount to the XTs. Also, this treads recomends using a DH or a SS ring becuase the lack of ramps and pins makes for a better 1x9 set up.
> 
> FYI I run XT cranks with a 40 tooth. Most people run 36t.


That's what I'm saying, I think it's geared too tall. I have the 32t middle sitting downstairs in my basement but that seems like a step too far in the other direction. I want to run a 36t ring but I don't know what the best option to run with the XT cranks is. I've already dumped a load of cash into this build so I'm going to keep the XT's until they croak.


----------



## Guest (Apr 23, 2007)

32T is plenty for me on the front. you should probably try that gearing first. low enough to climb, tall enough to move out pretty fast (unless you are road riding on your MTB)

for what it is worth, i have XC raced my 29er 1X9 with a 30T front. even though i was at a bit of a weight disadvantage (i am almost a clyde), i placed third in the first race and won the second.


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Disraeli,

As has already been said, your chain is too short for that set-up. Rule of thumb is to wrap the chain around the two largest gears front and back and then add two links. Do not run the chain through the derailleur when sizing.
Which front ring you use is mostly dependent on what kind of riding you do. Because you need to mount the chainring on a 1x9 in the middle ring position (to preserve your chain-line for all 9 gears), your frame (chain stay) may also limit the size of the chainring you can use, although your frame looks like it would be good to around 40T.
I ran LX cranks of the same design with a 1X9, so I can't see why you won't be able to keep those cranks (am I missing something?). Pretty much any 3mm or 5mm (thickness) chainring should fit no problem, although you may find yourself needing some washers for the chainring peg if you use a 3mm ring (like the e.thirteen on my set-up).
To build on my previous experience, I bought cheap, used rings from ebay while I figured out my own personal (key word!) configuration. Once I'd found that, I got the 38T and 40T e.thirteen rings (£30 each) which allow me to cover all the gearing ranges that I require. The e.thirteen rings are very strong, so may be worth considering if you're a big bloke.
I know your chain tension isn't a problem (haha), but do you manage OK without some kind of top guide?


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

*1x9 evolution*









Dropped the short cage XT in favour of a super-short cage Ultegra. I started to develop shifting inconsistencies which I managed to trace to the Rollamajig by a (very long) process of elimination. I'd considered switching to SRAM's X9 range as it offered a super-short cage mech that I figured should play very nicely with the tight gearing on the Ultegra cassette, but it would have meant coughing-up for a shifter, too, and I'd only recently installed the Saint. So, I reverted to a traditional cable and fitted the Ultegra mech. Job done, and that quick and quiet shifting is now a permanent feature.
My plan to drop the 11t on from my XT cassette was a non-starter as the sprocket is not compatible. Oh well, can't win 'em all...


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

Steve,

That new set-up looks great! I'm going to bump up to a 34t up front; I think that'll be a better match for me now that I've had an opportunity to put some miles on the 1x9 (had just started off with leaving the 32t original ring).

I can't say enough about how pleased I am that I made the 1x9 switch. All the full benefits of gears with SOOOO much less set-up & maintenance issues. I am genuinely baffled why more people aren't doing this; I just wish I'd done it many moons ago... And, yes, I also have a SS 29er - while that is a fun bike to ride also, the 1x9 conversion on my Blur Classic keeps it solidly as my primary weapon of choice :thumbsup:

Maybe I'll order up a 36t ring as motivational goal.... 

Oh yeah, and I found a use for the frame's FD cable guide - makes a nice place to put some purty flowers. Bling-bling, baby! 










Cheers, Chris


----------



## reverend_dallas (May 21, 2007)

I think I've decided to go 1x9, but I have a raceface carbon LP ISIS splined crank with a 44 tooth big ring. I'll need some new rings, and a guide...... what do you recommend?


----------



## reverend_dallas (May 21, 2007)

This seems like the appropriate place to post this..... what is the least expensive way to convert to a solid and long lasting 1x9 setup, from 3x9. Just bought a new chain and cassette, have a crank: 22-34-44 I think. Do I need a chain guide? Do I need a non-ramped ring? I'm guessing running the middle (about 34 tooth) ring is ideal, but what do I do with the others? (that might be a stupid question, but I've never taken apart my rings before) Advice on cheap chain guides? (jumpstop will fit, but it seems like there should be something better out there) Thanks for the help.


----------



## reverend_dallas (May 21, 2007)

*why the brakes?*

Avid BB-7 (f) brake Avid Ultimate Vee (r) with Avid Ultimate Levers

I'm curious, why the brake choice? weight savings?


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

Rev,

I know this whole thread is a hoss, but if you wade through it, you'll see examples of just about every concievable chainguide option. You'll definitely need some kind of chain guide - the RD itself doesn't tension the chain quite well enough to keep it on for any kind of routine trail riding (even moderate XC).

I personally like using a bashguard (such as an e.13 Supercharger) in place of the big ring, and an inner plate (such as an Blackspire Blackguard) in place of the granny ring. There are any number of other options, some more tailored to specific types of riding. Something as simple as using the old front derailluer or a Jumpstop (usually that in combo with a bashie) works just fine for many folks.

You don't need a non-ramped ring at all, so don't sweat that. Your current middle chainring (probably either a 32t or 34t) will work perfectly fine. Just leaving your current midddle ring as is has the added benefit of not messing up your chainline.

Once you decide on your method of chain guide/guard, the next best investment you can make is to go to a medium or (preferably) short-cage rear derailluer. Check out this thread to see what will fit your desired set-up. A short_er_ cage RD will make your shifting all that much snappier.

Taking apart your cranks is no big deal at all - if you don't have the original manu directions, just look 'em up on the net. But it's pretty intuitive for most set-ups.

Cheers, Chris


----------



## reverend_dallas (May 21, 2007)

*thanks*

good deal, I'm a little apprehensive about the switch..... any chance an avid rollamajig would help with the derailluer cage issue? I've got a long cage X7 I was hoping to use.... Is it possible to but just one shifter anywhere?


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

(I was writing this as Chris was posting, so excuse me if I've repeated his advice...) The least expensive (well, free) way is to just leave the chain on one ring at the front and forget about it. It's a good way to start, although if you're into jumping or riding fast over rocks/bumps, I'd recommend that you invest in some kind of chain retention. Although I've now switched to an e.thirteen LG-1, I found the Truvativ BoxGuide (in the pics above) to be a very useful piece of kit. The brass-bushed roller version is available for under £30 now, so it represents an excellent budget chainguide for most riding. It's limitations become apparent with heavier riding or longer travel frames, but I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it for most short to medium travel FS or any HT frames. 
Once you've sorted keeping your drivetrain connected, it's just a simple (haha) matter of finding your gearing combination. Start with what you've got and develop the drivetrain as you get used to riding it. You may find that you're happy enough with an 11t-32t cassette on your 34t chainring, or that an 11t-34t gives you that bit extra at the bottom-end or a 12t is enough at the top of the range. Chainrings, or even cassettes, can be bought used for just a few £/$'s and allow you to experiment with some more gearing ranges if you're feeling limited, or if you find yourself not using certain sprockets.


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

reverend_dallas said:


> good deal, I'm a little apprehensive about the switch..... any chance an avid rollamajig would help with the derailluer cage issue? I've got a long cage X7 I was hoping to use.... Is it possible to but just one shifter anywhere?


Your long-cage X7 will work just fine, and no need to get a new shifter at all (assuming your current shifter is compatible with that X7 RD). In the future, if you decide to go with a shorter cage RD - as long as it's a SRAM X-series - that shifter should still work fine.

The Rollamajig was designed for Shimano RDs, so it wouldn't be useful (or even possible?) to use on the X7 you mention.

The benefits of a shorter cage are crisper shifting, but getting a new derailleur isn't absolutely necessary - it's just another thing you can do to take full advantage of a 1x9. If you decide you like a 1x9 setup, then you can upgrade to a shorter cage derailleur later - you'll be that much more impressed & happy with your 1x9 :thumbsup:

Cheers, Chris


----------



## MikeyMT (Apr 27, 2007)

I have read through this thread but still have some questions. Bear with me im still a newb.

What exactly do I need to make a conversion to a 1x9? Im thinking a 32t chainring would be a good starting point for me. Can I keep the same rear casette as I have now, or is this a bad idea? What brands would you guys recomend?


Also, how hard is it to do yourself. I dont have a lot of experience working on bikes, but I have worked on cars my whole life and am pretty handy with a wrech.


----------



## phxartboy (Jun 17, 2004)




----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

MikeyMT said:


> I have read through this thread but still have some questions. Bear with me im still a newb.
> What exactly do I need to make a conversion to a 1x9? Im thinking a 32t chainring would be a good starting point for me. Can I keep the same rear casette as I have now, or is this a bad idea? What brands would you guys recomend?
> Also, how hard is it to do yourself. I dont have a lot of experience working on bikes, but I have worked on cars my whole life and am pretty handy with a wrech.


No need for a new cassette. Try the inexpensive n-gear jumpstop first. I got lucky with two spacers on the drive side of my cranks making them slightly 'outboard'. So if the chain is going to jump in any direction it'll lean inbound and be stopped by the jumpstop. The only other difference I've got going- and I think it makes a difference-- is using a single speed front chainring. The teeth are slightly taller and there are no ramps or pins to muck anything up. I'm using a 36t surly stainless single speed ring and I have dropped a chain once due to a branch which got caught between the crank arm and the chain. 
I'd be willing to bet that I don't even need the jumpstop since the chain is most tight when I'm using the larger rear cogs- tighter the chain is wrapped to the ring/cogs the less likely you're going to drop. hope this helps.
Also, using a med cage R-der which I've read makes some difference as well.


----------



## MikeyMT (Apr 27, 2007)

finger51 said:


> No need for a new cassette. Try the inexpensive n-gear jumpstop first. I got lucky with two spacers on the drive side of my cranks making them slightly 'outboard'. So if the chain is going to jump in any direction it'll lean inbound and be stopped by the jumpstop. The only other difference I've got going- and I think it makes a difference-- is using a single speed front chainring. The teeth are slightly taller and there are no ramps or pins to muck anything up. I'm using a 36t surly stainless single speed ring and I have dropped a chain once due to a branch which got caught between the crank arm and the chain.
> I'd be willing to bet that I don't even need the jumpstop since the chain is most tight when I'm using the larger rear cogs- tighter the chain is wrapped to the ring/cogs the less likely you're going to drop. hope this helps.
> Also, using a med cage R-der which I've read makes some difference as well.


hmm, do you think a 32t would be too small? I do a good amount of climbing, sometimes I drop to the smallest chainring, but 98% of the time im in the middle. Can I just keep the middle one, take off the small and big one, get a jump stop and a bash guard maybe and be good to go?


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

MikeyMT said:


> hmm, do you think a 32t would be too small? I do a good amount of climbing, sometimes I drop to the smallest chainring, but 98% of the time im in the middle. Can I just keep the middle one, take off the small and big one, get a jump stop and a bash guard maybe and be good to go?


Re: 32t-- %2 of the time? I'd say just tell your quads to suck it for that %2 of the time. They'll complain for a week or so, then they'll say _"2000 feet elevation in 3 miles? pfft! *watch this drive!*"_

I live is San Francisco, yeah we've got hills 'round here. Mt. Tam is 9 miles from my house and 2571ft.-- I don't miss the granny.

Re: bash guard-- <shrug> if you are hitting stuff then, yes I'd say it's warranted. If not, and you're not dropping off the right drive side I'd say save yourself the money and the weight. Try it without either first- you might get lucky and not need them at all. Then add the jumpstop (cheapest) then if you're dropping the chain off the right side, either throw another spacer in there or get the bash guard.

*EDIT*
forgot to mention, if you go with no bash you will absolutely need to get single speed chainring bolts. they are shorter. I recommend the stainless steel ones.


----------



## MikeyMT (Apr 27, 2007)

finger51 said:


> Re: 32t-- %2 of the time? I'd say just tell your quads to suck it for that %2 of the time. They'll complain for a week or so, then they'll say _"2000 feet elevation in 3 miles? pfft! *watch this drive!*"_
> 
> I live is San Francisco, yeah we've got hills 'round here. Mt. Tam is 9 miles from my house and 2571ft.-- I don't miss the granny.
> 
> ...


So a 36t would probably be good. What size is the middle chainring on a 3x9 usually? Will I need a new chain if I do this? Also, what are your thoughts on chainguides?

Also, how hard of a project is this? Seems pretty simple.

Sorry about all the questions, this 1x9 concept really interests me though.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

MikeyMT said:


> So a 36t would probably be good. What size is the middle chainring on a 3x9 usually? Will I need a new chain if I do this? Also, what are your thoughts on chainguides?
> 
> Also, how hard of a project is this? Seems pretty simple.
> 
> Sorry about all the questions, this 1x9 concept really interests me though.


a 32t middle ring is standard which is probably why that is the most commonly used ring on a 1x9 setup, and it also happens to work quite well for most conditions

converting to 1x9 is very easy, all you're doing is removing stuff from an existing setup. it boils down to simply removing the front drivetrain parts (shifter, der, cables) and then removing two chainrings. optionally add a bashguard or chainguide, and maybe shorten the chain. in all pretty basic work, so if you can turn a hex wrench you can do this mod :thumbsup:


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

MikeyMT said:


> So a 36t would probably be good. What size is the middle chainring on a 3x9 usually? Will I need a new chain if I do this? Also, what are your thoughts on chainguides?
> Also, how hard of a project is this? Seems pretty simple.
> Sorry about all the questions, this 1x9 concept really interests me though.


Re: which ring size? I'd say stick with what you've got for now. Going to a larger chainring will likely necessitate a new (longer) chain. If you're really spinning out too much to your liking then maybe a larger ring up front will be the ticket. Usual size middle is (guessing here) 32t or 34t ?
I'm kind of a cheap-skate so I tend to put off buying something unless what I'm running is just not working out. That said, If I were you, I'd go to my LBS and buy some steel SS chainring bolts, then pull the granny and big rings off, replacing the bolts while you're at it. Remove the shifter, cable and derailleur then go for a ride! Do lot's of fast, crappy shifting- like you have never ridden a geared bike before. Do this ride over some bumpy, rocky, curby, droppy terrain while continually shifting up and down. Run the full range of gears while you're doing this. Basically you want to tax the system to find the weakness. If the chain pops, make a mental note of which side it dropped to. That ride will help you determine what your next steps will be.

Re: how hard a project? very simple- 4 or 5 bolts and a bit of 'process of elimination'. If your 'shift-from-hell' ride proves lots of drops in-bound, then the cheap and light jumpstop will probably do the trick. If all the drops are to the right of the chainring, then that bashguard might be the way to go. If it's both, well.. I'm sure you've got it figured out, it's not rocket surgery.

It's a really easy way to drop weight and simplify your rig. It will make you a stronger rider too- good luck!


----------



## disraeli (Mar 8, 2007)

*Shimano alphabet soup*

Yo folks, quick question regarding that whole "shorter-cage/snappier-shifting issue".

I'd like to get a short cage RD and I'm running a DA bar end shifter/Paul Thumbie set up. (I've also swapped the big ring shown in the pics I posted last month for a 38T E13 g ring)

Shimano lists the M970 GS as "Best matched with DCL" and the M971 GS as "Best matched with RAPIDFIRE Plus".

I'm assuming that the M970 is what I'm looking for but the question is, what the heck is DCL?

If it was a five doller item, I'd just buy them until I found the right thing (rather than embarrass myself here) but for $100+ I'd rather get it right the first time.

Mahalo!


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

'DCL' could be Dual Control Lever (integrated gear controls and brake lever).


----------



## disraeli (Mar 8, 2007)

Aha! 

So where does that leave me?

I don't use DCL or the rapidfires.

Can I run an Ultegra RD like yours?

Ai-carumba


----------



## MikeyMT (Apr 27, 2007)

So if i get a jump stop, and a bash guard whats the point? Is this going to even save me any noticable weight?


----------



## tibug (Dec 5, 2006)

disraeli said:


> Yo folks, quick question regarding that whole "shorter-cage/snappier-shifting issue".
> 
> I'd like to get a short cage RD and I'm running a DA bar end shifter/Paul Thumbie set up. (I've also swapped the big ring shown in the pics I posted last month for a 38T E13 g ring)
> 
> ...


*D*ual *C*ontrol *L*evers!!!

Oh man am I a nerd...

Tim


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

MikeyMT said:


> So if i get a jump stop, and a bash guard whats the point? Is this going to even save me any noticable weight?


jumpstop = 30 grams
salsa ring-dinger = 44 grams

Shimano XT M750 Front Derailleur = 125 grams

so *just* the derailleur alone is almost 2x heavier. If you want to add up a weight list also count shifter, cable, housing and two chainrings. Noticeable? we're talking about almost a pound of weight savings. Would you notice if your bike was a pound lighter? If you set your bike up right, you most likely won't even need a bash-ring. When was the last time you bashed your large chainring? Granted I'm no hucker, but I can't even remember the last time I hit my chainring on anything. AND if you go with a surly stainless ring, you'll have a *STEEL* chainring- not whimpy aluminum. AND if you go with a surly stainless ring, you'll likely not even need a bashring or guard. I've been riding this setup everyday since september and have yet to drop a chain (my branch experience not withstanding since it would have come off even if I'd had a guard or bashring)

You mentioned you use the middle ring 98% of the time. Do you want to carry an extra pound for that 2%?

<edited for snarkey comment>


----------



## jgsatl (Sep 16, 2006)

anyone have issues with the surly chainring? surly considers their chainring a true singlespeed chainring and manufactures it wider than is recommended to use on a 9 speed chain:

http://www.surlybikes.com/spew15.html

i know that my surly chainring makes a *ton* of noise with my sram 9 speed chain. enough to worry me about it not lasting very long.....

any input would be appreciated.


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

jgsatl said:


> anyone have issues with the surly chainring? surly considers their chainring a true singlespeed chainring and manufactures it wider than is recommended to use on a 9 speed chain:
> 
> http://www.surlybikes.com/spew15.html
> 
> ...


You said what I've heard about using Surleys - a 9-speed chain no workee good and will inevitably lead to hella premature chain failure. Two great things that don't go great together...

Don't think that you need to get a weird chainring for a 1x9 - depending on how you choose to "guide" your chain, a regular ol' ramped / non-SS chainring will work perfectly fine. A SS / non-ramped ring may be better if you are only using a Jumpstop or something like that, but if you have a comprehensive "guide" plan (bashie/inner plate, bashie/jumpstop, etc, etc), a "normal" ramped ring will be fine.

I use RaceFace Race Rings (currently a 34t) because they are available in a healthy selection of sizes, and are designed to work with 9-speed goodies. RaceFace rings workee good!

Cheers, Chris


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

jgsatl said:


> anyone have issues with the surly chainring? surly considers their chainring a true singlespeed chainring and manufactures it wider than is recommended to use on a 9 speed chain:
> https://www.surlybikes.com/spew15.html
> i know that my surly chainring makes a *ton* of noise with my sram 9 speed chain. enough to worry me about it not lasting very long.....
> any input would be appreciated.


from TFA:


> _Most 9 or 10 speed chains have an inner plate width of *2.15-2.28mm* when new. Since there is an overlap in the chain and ring tolerances, we do not recommend using these chains with our rings. While a used chain will have a stretched inner plate width and a used Surly ring may have a slightly smaller thickness, it's possible to have a used 9 or 10 speed chain work just fine with our rings. We could control the ring thickness issue by machining them to keep an exact 2.20mm thickness, but the cost involved would exceed that which 90% of us are willing to pay.
> Most 5, 6, 7 or 8 speed chains have an inner plate width of 2.35-2.45mm.
> With the Surly rings being* 2.20-2.30mm thick*, your best bet is to choose a 5, 6, 7 or 8 speed chain. Simple as that. I've used 7 or 8-speed chains for the past 10 years and haven't had a failure yet._


So a variance of .05-.02mm-?- yeah, it's a _tiny bit_ noisy. I can only speak of my own experience and I haven't had any problems at all with this setup. I'm using an sram 9 speed chain for about 8 months now . It wasn't an especially wet winter but I got a few rain rides in. The usual clean/de-grease stuff every few months. nothing special. I don't know if I've just been lucky or what but it seems to be working for me.
Anyway, this is supposed to be a pics thread!~ here's some shots of a very dirty bike


----------



## hotdixon (May 8, 2007)

be sure to use a spacer if you're taking off the big chain ring. i didn't and exploded a 32 tooth chainring due to using improper mounting techniques. now i've got a fsa bashguard and some goldtooth mafias on the way. BTW i'm making all of MY bikes('navy bike' is all sram, kona is all shimano) 1x either 8(navy) or 9(kona). still can't talk the wife into coming over to the dark side. i'll put up some pics later.


----------



## Random Drivel (Oct 20, 2006)

Here we go . . .

On One Inbred 29er built new as a 1x9. X9 drivetrain, 11-34 cassette, Middleburn rs7 180mm cranks with a 5 arm 94bcd compact spider. 30t front chainring. non-ramped. FSA Quad BB. I went with 30t for the hills. no junpstop or guide, though I will put an outer on later to dress it up a bit. I have had no chain drop issues, getting the right width BB and setting chainline correctly helps a bit, it think. The rings/chain/bb are whisper quiet. Middleburns are the bomb! 

Pic to come, having posting issues right now.


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

To all interested in setting up a 1x9 (or 1x8):

Check out this thread for some good chain length considerations. I went to a "+4 links" (versus a normal "+2" links) for chain length, and there is definite improvement in shifting performance.

Food for thought.

Cheers, Chris


----------



## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Thanks, that was very intresting.. Now I have a new chain with +2... Wondering if I should buy another new one to have +4.










Saint cranks with a E.13 34t front chainring, and E.13 LG1 chainguide.
Sram 990 casette with a short cage X9 derailleur and shifter. Cables are Avid Flack Jacket(?)
The chain is a KMC 9sp.

The cranks are overkill for me, I might change them for something lighter.


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

I wouldn't worry about getting a new chain just for that - I ran my 1x9 with the "+2" for quite a while, and that works fine. Give it some time - your setup will let you know if it would like an additional link or two; mine was a little strained (both feeling & looking - the RD was really stretched out) at the low end, and giving it a couple more links was just what the doctor ordered. Still plenty of tension for the system in the rough stuff.

But running it with "+2" isn't going to hurt anything unless you are completely maxing out your RD stretch on the low end.

Nice bike, BTW!

Cheers, Chris


----------



## kuksul08 (Oct 8, 2006)

Here's mine. 32T front ring and Gamut G25. Works very well.


----------



## reverend_dallas (May 21, 2007)

jumpin_joe2u said:


> Been riding this for over 2 years now. I've only dropped the chain a handful of times and it has always been in a crash, never while riding.


How's your crank holding up? I just shattered an identical one on my SS. (raceface carbon LP) Local mechanic said he wasn't surprised given the pressure on it. I was picking carbon out of my leg for days. :madman:


----------



## koko_T (Jun 19, 2007)

Hi everybody! this is a great thread! its taken me a couple of days, but i've managed to get through all the posts and i've learned a ton on my way here. i'm new around here, and relatively new to wrenching on the bike, so please forgive me....

i have a gary fisher HT that's on its decade anniversary, and i'm in the process of converting it to a mostly-full time commuter (since i just unloaded the bank account on a FS XC rig! yes!). i have some hills on my commute, but they aren't bad. i can most definitely climb all of them in my middle gear.

i'm thinking of buying the following cranks:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=150141293290&rd=1&rd=1

does anyone have any experience with these? is my understanding correct that in order to run these, i need a BB with a longer spindle (currently 113mm with 3x9) to obtain correct chain line? i like the look of these, and i like the price (price is, unfortunately, an issue).

finally, i have read several authors here allude to it, but if i am only riding the bike on road, and fairly good pavement at that, do i still need to have some sort of chain guide (whether it be a rohloff or jump stop?) even if my chain line is ok?

thank you so much for your input, love this thread and all of the gorgeous machines! its been quite the inspiration these past couple of days!


----------



## Mason71 (Nov 16, 2006)

man if i were you I would save the money and just use the crank you have on your bike now and just take off your granny and tall rings as well as you front derailer. A jump stop and some kind of outer ring would be nice if you are going to be hopping any curbs, if if not don't worry about it.

I made my own jump stop with an old reflector bracket (and a bench grinder). As well as the outer ring I made from a plate of lexan (home depot). You can see it on page seven of this thread. Cheap and works great!:thumbsup:


----------



## Hud (Jun 22, 2004)

So if you don't run a jump stop or outer ring and the chain does jump - it shouldn't create a dangerous situation should it? The chain will either fall inwards onto the BB shell or if outwards the crankarm will catch it? Is this right? I ride on fairly mild terrain and hope to get away with no guides. Having a rear derailluer means It's quick to stop and put the chain back on yes?


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

if the chain drops bad things can and will happen, including damage to your chain, chainring, deraileur, or it may cause an accident. i would highly recommend running something on both sides of your chain. if you need a cheap ghetto setup, grind the teeth off your outer ring which becomes a bash guard, and pick up an n-gear, i just got one and they are cheap, work great, and are very light


----------



## thecrazyfinn (Apr 7, 2007)

Very mild terrain should result in chain drops being rare. I've got a mutie Rockhopper (essentially a 26" cross bike) that was running as a 1x9 on the big ring for the longest time, riding asphalt and park trails with the occasional but of light singletrack. Only dropped the chain once. 

But a cheap bashring works on the outside and should be a bit easier to find than singlespeed/BMX chain bolts (had a heck of a time finding those, my roadie SS is running a 44t chainguard instead). Chain drops to the inside only really happen when you're up on the big cog and torquing if your chainline is good.

for serious offroad stuff I'd recommend running a bashguard/grannyguard, bashguard/jumpstop or chainguide setup.


----------



## Hud (Jun 22, 2004)

Thanks, it's sounds like I'll be getting a N-gear jump stop and a Spot outer ring.


----------



## koko_T (Jun 19, 2007)

Thanks, yeah that sounds like a good idea. my cranks are a little beat up and they are in need of retirement. Maybe i'll drop the 2 rings now, and try them out for their last miles before i jump in....

Currently looking at the race face evolve SS or the bontrager race lite SS set ups (34t or 32t with bash rings). 

hope to use the bike mostly as a commuter, but i have another wheel set with fatty's on them for the occasional dirt. thanks for the input!


----------



## futak (May 29, 2007)

*Whew!*

Awesome Post!

Just spent the last 2 days reading all this. A ton of great info thanks to everyone. I gotta do this and it sounds very easy but have a concern about taking off the crank. Someone mentioned its as easy as turning a hex key but Im concerned it may be more difficult after reading about crank pullers and what not.

Would anyone be able to tell me or link to how to remove the crank for a 2007 Rockhopper with a "Shimano FCM-341-8, Octalink Spline, replaceable rings" crank?

I have searched here and google and just want to make sure i dont break my new bike.


----------



## Beolin (Apr 19, 2006)

Updated the 1X9 with a bash guard and 3rd eye.


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

*The final piece...*

After much, much meddling and tinkering (and a sweet deal on a DuraAce cassette!), I've finally put together a drivetrain that I can now forget about. The super-short cage Ultegra and the 11t-23t cassette play together brilliantly, with an XTR M970 shifter supplying uber-light indexing. I splashed out on a pair of KCNC pulley wheels and the difference is remarkable. They're a tiny bit noisier than the original Shimano wheels but they spin so much more freely. I didn't expect that this would be so apparent in the pedal stroke, but it is quite noticable. I don't know how long the aluminium wheels will last compared to the plastic ones, only time will tell, but at this point I'd recommend the KCNC's as an excellent derailleur upgrade. (Weight-weenies might also be interested in the KCNC chainring bolts which weigh in at only 7g for a set of 4.). 
Also at the front, I've switched out the Truvativ BoxGuide for e.thirteen's LG-1. I'm pretty much set on the KMC X9.92 or 93 now; excellent, stiff, hardwearing chains. Anyways, enough of my ramblings, here's the finished 1x9....


----------



## mrqwertyasdf (May 31, 2007)

Hey, guys.
I posted some time ago regarding turning my ol' 00' 21spd Trek4300 and turn it into a 1x7.
Thanks to everyone who replied and helped out, by the by!
Finally, after a good month+ and a break from work, I've managed to get started on the parts; however, I haven't begun the reconstruction yet..

So here's what I've got so far:

Truvativ Hussefelt Triple Crankset,170mm, 32T middle ring.
- I'm probably going to install a bash (not sure which one yet) and an inner plate (probably Blackspire Blackguard).
- I was thinking of just using my original BB that came with my 4300, but would that work?
- What would be the most compatible/best deal?

XTR RD-M951, Long cage (just in case I decide to switch back to 3x7 later on).
- Should that cause any problems?
- My LBS told me that the shifting won't be as crisp, but for my purposes, a long-cage will work just fine, especially if I might switch back to a 3x7 later on.

7spd Deore LX shifter/brake-lever combo (circa. 94-95)
- Is it possible to remove the shifter from the shifter/brake-lever combo?
- I want to buy another pair of brake levers, but I need that 7spd shifter, so I was wondering if I could just remove that 7spd-shifter and pair it off with a separate Avid?
- Or, is there another shifter that I could use?

If there's any other pieces of advice out there, man.. I'd love to hear it.
Once again, Thanks, guys.
-Steve


----------



## thecrazyfinn (Apr 7, 2007)

mrqwertyasdf said:


> Hey, guys.
> I posted some time ago regarding turning my ol' 00' 21spd Trek4300 and turn it into a 1x7.
> Thanks to everyone who replied and helped out, by the by!
> Finally, after a good month+ and a break from work, I've managed to get started on the parts; however, I haven't begun the reconstruction yet..
> ...


Your bike likely uses a square-taper BB which is incompatible with the Hussefelt. I'd just get whatever Truvativ BB they recommend for the Hussefelt



> XTR RD-M951, Long cage (just in case I decide to switch back to 3x7 later on).
> - Should that cause any problems?
> - My LBS told me that the shifting won't be as crisp, but for my purposes, a long-cage will work just fine, especially if I might switch back to a 3x7 later on.


This will work fine, shifting won't be as crisp, but you're good to go.



> 7spd Deore LX shifter/brake-lever combo (circa. 94-95)
> - Is it possible to remove the shifter from the shifter/brake-lever combo?
> - I want to buy another pair of brake levers, but I need that 7spd shifter, so I was wondering if I could just remove that 7spd-shifter and pair it off with a separate Avid?
> - Or, is there another shifter that I could use?
> ...


No, you won't be able to remove those pods from the levers unless you can track down an old 3rd party adaptor from the same era (unlikely). SRAM TRX 7 trigger shifters are available in 7spd form. Barring that, any 8spd shifter will work (the spacing is essentially the same, just set it up so that you're on the smallest cog with the second gear selected to prevent overshifting into the spokes.


----------



## mrqwertyasdf (May 31, 2007)

crazyfinn,
What do you mean by "just set it up so that you're on the smallest cog with the second gear selected to prevent overshifting into the spokes"?
If I were to have an 8spd shifter, and it shows that I have gear "8" selected, I'm actually on the first, outermost cog (smallest)? And, if I were to have gear "2" selected, I'd actually be on the last, innermost cog (largest)?
Thanks for tip on the LX. Saved me a future headache.
-Steve


----------



## Warshade (Jun 19, 2006)

2005 Raleigh Ram 3500 XT (6"/7")
(Currently in 6" mode)
07 Marz Z1 RV
Swinger 6-way
E-thirteen chainguide & bashguard
Saint cranks
Saint rear derrailleur
Saint shifter
Saint thru axle hubs (f/r)
Saint 8" complete brake system
Azonic A-frame pedals
Azonic seatpost
Salsa seatpost clamp
Bontrager Big Earl 710mm handlebar
Bontrager Earl 50mm stem
Orbit Z headset
WTB Power V DH saddle
Sun Rhyno Lite rims (black)
Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5" (front)
Maxxis High Roller DH 2.5" (rear)
Stan's tubeless kit


----------



## Baulz (Sep 16, 2005)

Not the best pic, but this is my little chainguide for 1X8.

It weighs 22g with steel hardware. Made a full carbon version with nylon bolts, it was 12grams and lasted about 2km before it broke.


----------



## Hud (Jun 22, 2004)

energetix said:


> I encountered a similar problem - I mounted a bashie, shortened the chain, did the b screw thing and now my chain only seems to fall off if I go coast downhill (usually a rocky sort of track). I've still got the granny there at the moment and it doesn't matter what gear I'm in on the cassette it still does it, but generally just falls onto the granny.It's not a problem as long as I'm pedalling usually.
> I'm waiting on Phantom Cycles to get some of these in, and I'll be putting it on in place of the granny hopefully:
> 
> https://www.straitlinecomponents.com/products/inner_rings.php


Will these work on XT cranks?


----------



## southcan (Jul 19, 2007)

What's wrong with just using the front derailleur instead of a jumpstop/chainguide/bashguard etc..


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

Hud said:


> Will these work on XT cranks?


They are just 4-hole 104mm BCD - if your XT cranks match, then yes. They are 34t-max though, so don't try a larger chainrining than that.

Dunno where to buy them, they have been sold out for forever everywhere I've seen them offered.

My experience using inner-plate / bash sandwich combos has been to not use a chainring at the max size of the inner plate - it'll still bounce out. That was with a Blackspire 36t-max inner plate and 36t chainring. Maybe the Straitline has more diameter to hold onto a 34t ring. Since I like a 36t ring, I now use a e.13 SRS instead of the bash/plate sandwich.

Cheers, Chris


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

southcan said:


> What's wrong with just using the front derailleur instead of a jumpstop/chainguide/bashguard etc..


Nothing at all. I think most people don't since it's not the best-looking solution. But it should work well.

Cheers, Chris


----------



## Sinbad_ (Apr 1, 2006)

I'm about to go 1x9 on my Whyte. I bought XTR cranks a few weeks ago and I'm so annoyed at them I'm selling them for some Middleburns and a single ring.

I'm using a 12-27 road casette so I can go for a smaller front ring.


----------



## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Good luck with the Middleburns. Some of the nicest cranks, but those bottom brackets... Most of my friends are selling theirs even though they still love the cranks themselves.

I cut up a taco but I think I made it too short. I wonder if I should try again with the other half?


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

dropadrop,

You may want to try moving the lower idler forward 10-15mm. In that position the chain can double-up and jam or get pulled up between the idler and the chainring.


----------



## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Thanks, I'll do that. Though while moving it forward it also moves upwards. This means I have to rotate the device anti clockwise slightly to get more room (it's almost touching the chainstay as is). That will move the bashring even further, so should I make a new taco out of the remaining piece?


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

e.thirteen recommend modifying their guides to enable you to get them as close to the 'ideal' position as possible. I had almost the same problem as you on my BigHit, which isn't even supposed to be able to accept the LG1 because of its elevated bottom bracket, so I ended up cutting and filing away the back portion of the lower idler so that it would fit under the chainstay...









As you can see, the picture is from the rear of the assembly. Originally, both pieces were more or less the same size and shape.

As far as your taco goes, it doesn't look like it's drastically too small. If you can trim the other half to give you another couple of cm at the idler end then all good, but what you have doesn't look like it'll cause you any trouble.


----------



## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Thanks, that looks simple enough.


----------



## Rip (Jan 12, 2004)

E.13 SRS up front
36tooth E.13 guide ring up front
XT Shifter
XTR Deraillieur
11-34 XT rear cassette.
Sram Hollowpin chain.


----------



## Hud (Jun 22, 2004)

I'm after a lightweight outer ring guide, like a Spot as seen in this thread or a salsa. I really want a silver ring as I'm using XT cranks and I don't think a black ring will look any good.
Anyone got any suggestions?


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

--------


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

Update to my 1x9 setup...

Previously I had been a big fan of doing the bashguard / inner-plate sandwich for chain retention. That system worked fine for a 32t chainring, and even a 34t chainring. But I found I was most comfy with a 36t chainring, and that didn't play well with the sandwich - I was regularly bouncing the chain off. The max capacity of any available inner plate design I'm aware of is 36t, but pushing that "max" that doesn't work well at all in rough terrain!

So, I went with a burlier chain guide. I ended up using a e.13 SRS-W, and it's working out bee-u-ta-fully. It's on a Blur Classic, and the "-W" backplate is perfect for compensating the lower VPP pivot design. e.13's customer service was fantasic & prompt answering all of my questions - mad props to them.

Like Steve's post above, I too sanded down my lower idler backplate just a bit for a smidgen more clearance - worked out perfectly.

I also switched to a 36t e.13 Guide Ring (non-ramped/pinned) for a chainring - no issues at all with it and a 9-speed chain.










Cheers, Chris


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

Hud said:


> I'm after a lightweight outer ring guide, like a Spot as seen in this thread or a salsa. I really want a silver ring as I'm using XT cranks and I don't think a black ring will look any good.
> Anyone got any suggestions?


I'm a fan of e.thirteen's Guide Ring chainrings. They are available in silver or black. Just one option.

Cheers, Chris


----------



## Hud (Jun 22, 2004)

Did you try the Straitline inner guide plate with the poly outer? I'm going to run a 36 ring and I was hoping to go with a straitline.


----------



## sleeymas (May 19, 2007)

just finished this one its a marin northside trail 2006. changed to 1x8, truvativ hussefelt crankset with 36 ring and howitzer team bb. also just added tora 318 coil fork. the tensioner wasnt enough though i just ordered a jump stop. the chain falls off if i do big bunny hops or come off jumps.








:thumbsup:


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

Hud said:


> Did you try the Straitline inner guide plate with the poly outer? I'm going to run a 36 ring and I was hoping to go with a straitline.


According to everything I've seen (Straitline website & BTI's inventory page), that poly Straitline inner plate is 34t-max (if you can even find one - I'm not sure Straitline ever actually released these...). I was running a Blackspire Blackguard (36t-max), but at that max capacity, it was doing exactly zero to prevent the chain from bouncing right off-and-over in rough terrain with a 36t ring (previous use with 34t and 32t chainrings was golden, however).

Cheers, Chris


----------



## XC Mike (Sep 26, 2004)

What parts would I need to turn my Epic into a 1X9??


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

"_What parts would I need to turn my Epic into a 1X9??_"

I know that 313 is a lot posts, but you don't actually have to read all of them in their entirety. Your question has already been answered numerous times, with many of the considerable number of possibilities discussed in depth.


----------



## bonedpwinkle (Apr 3, 2007)

I just wanted to thank all of you guys for posting. It inspired me to do the same and I love it. Thought I would share as my first real post on here:


----------



## monocognizant (Jul 10, 2007)

*1x9 Minus 1*

Here is my latest build. Man, I love this bike. Sorry about the picture quality.


----------



## NZCoyote (Mar 19, 2007)

Here's my newly converted '07 Gt Avalanche Expert.

I was running it as a SS for the local night races, but decided to make it more hill friendly.

Basic Specs,
2007 GT Avalance Expert,
RS Reba Teams,
XT Medium Cage Shadow Derailleur,
E-13 LG1 Chainguide,
etc.

Enjoy.


----------



## minus9 (Oct 7, 2005)




----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

minus9 said:


>


That chain will fall up and mess up the blue cranks.


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

finger51 said:


> And here it is completed:


update for pics- 
Now with a reba

















And this is the Wife's whip- 91 Zaskar:


----------



## konut (Mar 25, 2006)

ultegra 12-25 cogset,with raceface 34 tooth ring and diabolus chainguide.

xtr m971 mech and xtr shifter with cn-7701 chain,just built and no usage yet.

sorry no pics either.


----------



## Whitebread (Aug 28, 2006)

finger51 said:


> update for pics-
> Now with a reba
> [IM]https://gallery.mtbr.com/data/mtbr/500/medium/IMGP2712.JPG[/IMG]
> [IG]https://gallery.mtbr.com/data/mtbr/500/medium/IMGP2713.JPG[/IMG]
> ...


Um, that top tube on the first bike is always in bending..........


----------



## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

i'm runnning:

bontrager big earl cranks w/ 36T ring 
too-small 34T original bash guard (gotta get rid of this)
sram PG970 11-26 cassette
sram x-9 rear der. (long cage - want to switch to a medium or short)
sram pc-971 chain

I also have a separate wheelset with off-road tires - that's a PG970 11-34 cassette on there for more gearing off-road.


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

Here's my Chumba XCL 1x9 setup.
Stylo 2 cranks already come with bash ring, so all I had to do was add a Blackspire Black Ring.
I hardly ever used granny while riding as 2x9, so getting rid of that and shifter just made riding simpler, kinda like my SS.


----------



## GrantB (Jan 10, 2004)

I just started experimenting on my Kona Kula in the past week or so. First build was an unramped 32t ring with no other tensioning device. I kept dumping chain to the outside in sections where I was really cooking, so I put on a burned out big ring. Dumped chain inside and outside this time. So now I have the big ring and a front derailer (let me dump French spelling conventions) positioned over the chain line and held in stasis by the limit screws. We'll see how this works.

Seems like the most elegant solution would be a short cage rear derailer and an appropriately sized chain. Skip all the guides up front?


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

GrantB said:


> Seems like the most elegant solution would be a short cage rear derailer and an appropriately sized chain. Skip all the guides up front?


Yes.

It seems the magic combo is a smaller derailleur, unramped ring and a perfectly sized chain. I'm using a jump stop but I often wonder if I even need that. I've dropped a chain once in a year of daily riding (commute and trail) and that was a branch getting between the ring and chain- would've happened whether I had the full der. guide or no.


----------



## GrantB (Jan 10, 2004)

Exactly. I think all the guides and chain sandwiches are necessary only if you use a derailer meant to help deal with the vast differences in chain wrap running from 22t to 44t chain rings, i.e. the common long cage derailer. 

The first couple of rides on this 1 x 9 setup have been really cool. Maybe if I ever feel like spending money to clean it up, I'll go the more elegant route.


----------



## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

*Custom Climber?*

I'm thinking about trying out this combo on a FS bike i'm looking at next.

1 x 9. 16 x 40 cogset with a 32 tooth chainring. 9 speed.

Close ratio on the climbing cogs...eg: 40, 38, 36, 34, 32, 28, 24, 20, 16.

Twist grip front shifter and a short cage rear derailleur.

What do you all think?

She should be a climbing mosheen... 

R.


----------



## croscoe (May 23, 2007)

Assuming that it's a 26" bike, 32x40 would yield 21.1 gear inches. That's IF the rear derailleur could handle a 40T cog in the first place.

22x34 is a lower gear @ 17.1 gear inches. 

This would make an interesting bike. Perhaps a trials crankset could be used to get the small chainring as well as more ground clearence.

Edit - If it were possible to use a trials crankset, you could run a stupid low gear such as a 18x34.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

*Winter Upgrades*

Here's some of my upgrades to my 1x9 -

Blackspire 32T Mono Veloce chainring replaced with e.13 34T Guide Ring










Spot chainguard replaced with a white e.13 Supercharger. Way too burly for me, but what the heck. It is 5x heavier than the Spot, but it white so it's guaranteed to be faster.










Here's the final result. Crank and BB are unchanged, but probably time to get a new SRAM 990 cassette and Wippermann 9x1 chain.










Also replaced the mismatched aluminum and carbon fiber 11T pulleys with these 13T ceramic bearing monsters from KCNC (labeled as Token brand). Needed a bit of adjustment on the RD to clear the 34T cog, but easy enough. Very smooth.


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

finger51 said:


> Yes.
> 
> It seems the magic combo is a smaller derailleur, unramped ring and a perfectly sized chain. I'm using a jump stop but I often wonder if I even need that. I've dropped a chain once in a year of daily riding (commute and trail) and that was a branch getting between the ring and chain- would've happened whether I had the full der. guide or no.


I tried the same thing, but the chain kept falling off on bumpy down hills.


----------



## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

I posted in a different thread about this and I was sent here. I'm looking to go 1x9 from 2x9 this season. I read this entire thread which has helped immensly but I'm still trying to wrap my brain around what I should do here and I could use some advice.

Background
My current rig is a Titus El Guapo and my trails are East Coast "AM" type riding. So my trails are very rocky and rooty w/short steep techy climbs followed by short steep techy downhills. I also do some dh/freeride stuff as well as some all day XC rides. I am starting to push larger drops and bigger stunts so this setup can't hold me back. This is my only bike and I need to keep it that way for now.

Gearing:
I ride a 11/34 and a 34 chainring. I find myself in 1x3 to 1x5 most of the time and then in full granny with the harder climbs. Sometimes I'll go to 2x1-3 instead but because I don't like using the front shifter I usually end up back in 1 for most of my riding. Given that I'm thinking I'll stick with the 11/34 cassette but I'm not sure if I should go 30 or 32 upfront. How much of a difference is it between the two? Making hard climbs is very important to me so I'm leaning towards the 30.

Chain:
My cranks are the standard outboard bearing XT cranks and I'm running a bash ring. I havent had any problems with the chain dropping with my 2x9 setup. I'm looking at getting an Inner plate to replace my granny ring and I'll tighten up my chain. Will that be sufficient to keep my chain on through the rough stuff? Is this thing any good http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/15...lackSpire/Blackspire-Stinger-Chain-Guide.htm? I don't want to spend a lot of $ starting out so is there any low cost solutions that are good at keeping the chain on?

Any other help is appreciated.


----------



## NJ-XC-Justin (Jan 1, 2006)

*1x9 Azure*

Hi all - I've been riding my Azure as a 1x9 for the past couple months and I love it. Stock 32-tooth race face ring, standard sram chain. I'd prefer to go sans chain guides but even after removing chain links I still lost my chain like mad. So the blackspire lite god and blackguard put back some weight but don't add back any noise or complexity. I'll definitely keep it til late April and then I need to decide whether to race with this setup or revert to a 27 (or 18) speed.


----------



## GrantB (Jan 10, 2004)

woodyak said:


> Gearing:
> I ride a 11/34 and a 34 chainring. I find myself in 1x3 to 1x5 most of the time and then in full granny with the harder climbs. Sometimes I'll go to 2x1-3 instead but because I don't like using the front shifter I usually end up back in 1 for most of my riding. Given that I'm thinking I'll stick with the 11/34 cassette but I'm not sure if I should go 30 or 32 upfront. How much of a difference is it between the two? Making hard climbs is very important to me so I'm leaning towards the 30.


Run the numbers. In your 1x3 you are pushing something like a 1:.9 gear ratio. With a 30t ring and a 11-34 cassette, your absolute low end is about the same, but a little lower. With a 32t, it's just a hair higher. No big loss, really.

As for keeping the chain from dropping, run your limit screws on the front der. until the cage is directly over the chain. Keep the big ring on for insurance.


----------



## tturbotom (May 10, 2006)

*I made some revisions. See my new post.*

I made some revisions see my new post in this thread
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=4049541#post4049541

Just finished up my DIY 1x9 conversion. I used aluminum for my chain guide/bash rings. If you are wondering what the writing is on the rings. I bought a street sign and made my rings out of it. Handy since the sign is reflective.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

tturbotom said:


>


Dude, that's honestly the best design I've seen yet. I'd buy one of those for a 34T. Put 'em on Ebay.


----------



## tturbotom (May 10, 2006)

Indiefab said:


> Dude, that's honestly the best design I've seen yet. I'd buy one of those for a 34T. Put 'em on Ebay.


Thanks


----------



## mtbnachos (Feb 1, 2007)

*Soma Juice 1x9*

Here's my setup. I need a chain guide for 50mm chainline. Might get a Rohloff and modify it for my bike. Go 29ers!

Crank: Race Face Evolve XC X-Type
Chainring: Blackspire Mono Veloce
RD: SRAM X-9
Cassette: SRAM
Chain: Shimano w/ SRAM Power link
R Shifter: SRAM X-9


----------



## minus9 (Oct 7, 2005)

1x9 trials bike


----------



## minus9 (Oct 7, 2005)

Oh, yeah... I have a 1x9 cruiser, too...


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

minus9 said:


> 1x9 trials bike


How does the chain stay on? I tried a n-jump stop on the inside and the chain would always fall to the outside.


----------



## nadinno78 (Mar 23, 2006)

That is pretty slick. I like it.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

minus9 said:


>


I'm feelin the Planet X love. That's Pimp-a-rific.


----------



## GTV8 (May 5, 2006)

Here is my 1x9 that I just built up this weekend. Its a Sette Shadow frame built with a bunch of spare parts I had lying around. I am using the stock 32T middle ring from my Truvativ crankset with a Race Face bashguard and a N-gear jump stop. Currently using a 11-32T on the rear with a LX mid-cage low normal derailleur. Took the bike for its maiden voyage today and immediately noticed how quiet the drivetrain was with no chain rattle. The trail was full of roots and had no chain drop issues and all gears were usable. Overall I am really liking the 1x9 setup allot. Here are a few pics.


----------



## tturbotom (May 10, 2006)

I made some revisions to my 1x9 set up. One my maiden 1x9 ride I loved the performance, but I had some issues with the materials used though. The down fall was the aluminum was too flimsy. I had the chain jump between the gear and the inner guide ring twice under extreme loads. Basically the inner guide ring would bend, allowing the chain to get sandwiched. The solution was to change the mounting point of the inner guide ring. You will see in the pictures provided that I ran a bolt through the center of the OEM chain ring bolts. I used a spacer to dictate the distance between the inner ring and the drive gear. My hope is that the by moving the mounting point of the guide ring closer to the edge it will make for a more durable system and hopefully will prevent the aluminum from bending. I also purchased a stronger outer guide/bash ring to withstand the abuse the bike gets from the rocky and log covered trails of North Eastern Pa.


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

tturbotom said:


> I made some revisions to my 1x9 set up.


What is the weight of the inner and outer chain guide.


----------



## tturbotom (May 10, 2006)

The outer ring is from Nashbar and wieghts in at 156g. I don't know the actual wieght of the inner ring, but I would guess that it is about 1/4 the wieght of the outer ring.


----------



## Guest (Feb 6, 2008)

*indiefab*

thank you indiefab


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

took me a minute to figure out where that came from.
You're welcome -eddie. and SteveUK. Thanks gets spread to mechmann, killroy and all the other frequent posters here. 
Here's to the next 350 posts about 1x9.


----------



## sdjetsetter (Jan 16, 2008)

This Thread is AWESOME! I havent been riding for over a year, but now that I have my new "baby", (Jamis Dragon), I'm about 90% sure I will be converting it to a 1x9. On my old Stumpjumper, I took off my front Derailleur about a year before the bike was thieved. I thought I was one of the few that loved the 1x9! I did have some problems with chain drop, and never in my wildest dreams, knew there were so many ways of fixing the problem.

I have read pretty much all the posts here, and I have A good idea of what im getting myself into. I am left with a question though, and I was hoping one, or more of you knowledgeable posters could advise me in the right direction. 

I tend to ride 95% of the time on streets , and I really think that I need a Chainring with 42t. I know this may be weird sounding, and many of you may say that it would be logical to just buy a road bike, but I like the feel of my mountain bike.I dont think 32,or 36t
would give me enough gear for the straightaways/ downhills. Im not looking to fly or anything, but when I ride now, I ONLY use my big chainring 98% of the time. 

SO I guess what im asking is whether or not there would be any downside to having a 42t chainring in the Middle ring spot? I dont do any hardcore offroad stuff, but I plan on definitely going with some kind of chain guard for chain drop. Most Likely the BBG bashguard and a Jumpstop for the inner part. I know the BBG is light, but I dont do much riding off road. Is there anything I may be missing here? Chain length can stay the same? 
I have to keep the long cage derailleur for now, as my 2 children have drained me financially for a while. LOL.
Any tips regarding 1x9 with 42t-44t chainring would be VERY appreciated! It's such a wonderful thing to see all these 1x9 setups!
THANKS!!!


----------



## dropspace (Jan 1, 2007)

most likely your frame will not allow a 42t ring in the middle spot. it won't clear the chainstays.


----------



## sdjetsetter (Jan 16, 2008)

Snap! ..Darnitt!
gotta check that when I get home. Thnx Dropspace.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

How about a 36 or 38T with a 9-speed road cassette? Should give you similar ratios overall. Not absolutely sure about RD, tho. Should work with a 9-speed road cassette too, right?

How about a 11-23 SRAM for $35 from PricePoint.

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/12910-065_SRA7R4-43-Brands-195-SRAM-Components/Sram-PG-970-Road-Cassette-9-Speed-'07.htm


----------



## croscoe (May 23, 2007)

1x6 on a Hope Pro II SS/Trials hub:


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

dropspace said:


> most likely your frame will not allow a 42t ring in the middle spot. it won't clear the chainstays.


I run a 42t in the middle spot without hitting. For me, 42t ends up being really good for Sea Otter XC. I don't want to sacrifice any top speed.


----------



## georgemid (Apr 7, 2007)

Here's my 1x8 Haro V2 - well, at least the frame... that's all that's left from the original bike. This "entry-level" frame is the benefactor of various take-off parts every time I upgrade my Jamis Dakar FS bike, as well as random stuff I've gotten from friends, plus a beautiful Surly 36T SS chainring. No chainguides or anything of the sort - I've yet to drop the a chain.

Here it is mid-ride at Haw Ridge:










And in the garage after the ride (and before washing!):




















Haro V2 frame
Surly 34T stainless singlespeed chainring on Coda cranks from my friend's parts box
Shimano M520 pedals
SRAM PG830 cassette, PC58 chain
Deore rear derailleur + 8-speed shifter
Deore hydraulic brakes (160mm rear / 185mm front)
Manitou Axel 100mm+lockout fork
Some crappy wheels that were stock on my Jamis - I'm going to ride them to death (which won't be long) and upgrade as soon as possible
Kenda Kinetics 2.2 rear / Maxxis High Roller 2.1 front
Cannondale 110mm stem / handlebars from the Jamis / ODI Rogue Lock-on grips
WTB Speed V saddle; Pivit seatpost taken from a Haro X6

It's not the lightest thing in the world, and is loaded with cheapo parts, but it's nice and simple and cheap parts can be replaced cheaply. I'm not out to win any races on this thing, just to have fun. And it's a heck of a lot of fun.


----------



## kvn2833 (May 5, 2007)

2007 Cannondale Rush Mrp chainguide - med cage X9


----------



## dudeStL (Feb 12, 2008)

https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93/lespauldude7/fetish2.jpg


----------



## dudeStL (Feb 12, 2008)

1x8 . It's coming along. I hope to get some disc hubs/brakes soon. I don't know what kind of Manitou fork this is, it has 100-120mm of travel. S.I.C stem, profile/gt cranks, XTR brakes,hubs,gears,derailleur, crappy seat/post/clamp, etc...Shimano DX platforms.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

> 1x8 . It's coming along. I hope to get some disc hubs/brakes soon. I don't know what kind of Manitou fork this is, it has 100-120mm of travel. S.I.C stem, profile/gt cranks, XTR brakes,hubs,gears,derailleur, crappy seat/post/clamp, etc...Shimano DX platforms.


How hard was it to install that BMX crank/BB? I've seen a lot of BMX cranks that look great but figured it wouldn't match up with a standard MTB bottom bracket shell.


----------



## combatkimura (Jul 17, 2007)

Here's another BMX crank setup for you. Matching Profile's euro bb to a mtb frame is a piece of cake.


















X.9 short cage
X.9 trigger shifter
PG950 Cassette 11t-26t
PC951 Chain
Profile Race Cranks
Profile Imperial 36t chainwheel
MRP G2 Chainguide

Love it!


----------



## stephen11364 (Jan 31, 2004)

I'm thinking about going 1X8 could you tell me any pros and cons versus singlespeed? Also is a chain retention device absolutely essential?


----------



## combatkimura (Jul 17, 2007)

I wouldn't risk running without a chainguide. I was going to run 1x8 but I found that there is a limited selection of gear available compared to 9 speed. I was running singlespeed and it just wasn't practical for the type of riding (FR) that I do. Gears are worth the little bit of extra maintenance IMO. I still don't like front mechs though which is why I'm running 1x9


----------



## dudeStL (Feb 12, 2008)

Indiefab said:


> How hard was it to install that BMX crank/BB? I've seen a lot of BMX cranks that look great but figured it wouldn't match up with a standard MTB bottom bracket shell.


The Profile (mtb) BB comes with all the spacers and stuff to intall their cranks on a mtb.
That being said, my install was very easy and required only one washer/spacer to line everything up.


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

stephen11364 said:


> I'm thinking about going 1X8 could you tell me any pros and cons versus singlespeed? Also is a chain retention device absolutely essential?


Some folks swear that they don't need a chain retention device, but I can't believe that's working out for them long-term in most riding conditions. Unless you just ride paved trails or fireroads, you're going to want to have something to keep the chain on - lots & lots of options to do it!

1x8 or 1x9 or SS... Up to you. If it wouldn't be as much of a PITA as I know I would turn it into trying to get it perfect , I'd go down to 1x5. I just use a 1x9 because the parts are easier to get these days, but I could easily live without a few of those middle gears. I have a SS bike too, but I do love my 9-speed gearie as well. Both are a blast to ride, and each give me unique challenges to deal with. Front derailleurs are the devil - they will never again be on one of my bikes. Ever.

Cheers, Chris


----------



## ducktape (May 21, 2007)

Here she is.
Got some better pictures now.

STP 0

















Definitely need a bash ring if not only to protect my pants from getting caught. Oh probably go down to 34t instead of the 36 too, with 11-32 up back it's hard work on the hills.


----------



## EggsnBacon (Mar 12, 2007)

*Here's my new setup*

XTR 07 derailleur 
XTR 08 cranks
XTR 07 cassette
Wellgo MG-1 pedals (378g)
Nokon cables/housing
Blackspire 36t chainring
Modified LG-1 (read: totally silent in all gears) that still needs a wide backplate.

All on a 32.16 lb SlopeStyle


----------



## Hand/of/Midas (Sep 19, 2007)

all my bikes are 1x9 or SS, except one, my 06 enduro expert. will a bash and jump stop work on a 6" travel bike? or would i have to get a e:thirteen style setup?(rather not)


----------



## 0range (Dec 1, 2006)

Finally got my 1x9 setup as I wanted

Saint 
Sram X9
Rohloff Chain Device
DMR Chain Reactor Elite


----------



## stephen11364 (Jan 31, 2004)

I went with an MRP similar to the one on the Cannondale Rush above. Now all I need are the misc parts, build it, post it, and then ride it. Doesn't look like to soon though - we just got hit with snow in NYC.


----------



## agu (Jun 22, 2007)

*Here's my VooDoo HooDoo 1x9*

Built up with all the knowledge I've gleaned from this forum! So far it's been faultless. May change the fork though...

2007 17" VooDoo HooDoo butted steel frame
2001 Rock Shox SID 100 fork
2006 Shimano XTR DCLs mated to XT calipers
* 2006 Shimano Deore LX rapid rise short cage rear derailleur*
2001 Shimano Deore Hollowtech crank
FSA Ultimax Ti BB
* Salsa 32T chainring
Salsa RingDinger chainguard
N-Gear Jumpstop*
Time ATAC Alium pedals
* 2006 Shimano XT cogset 11-32
KMC X9SL chain*
2007 XT hubs, double butted spokes, Wheelsmith nipples, Mavic 230SBP rims
Nuke Proof skewers
Corratec Gripmaster 2.3 tires
Ritchey Comp seatpost, stem and grips
American Classic headset
Syntace Vector Pro Lo bar
WTB SST-XR saddle


----------



## mtbnachos (Feb 1, 2007)

Nice bike agu! The fork matches with the frame. How's that N-gear jump stop working for you? I have the same drivetrain but the chain keeps falling out.


----------



## stephen11364 (Jan 31, 2004)

Two shots of my new ride!


----------



## Jerome (Dec 21, 2003)

0range said:


> Finally got my 1x9 setup as I wanted
> 
> Saint
> Sram X9
> ...


May I ask where you found this Rohloff Chain Device ?

Thanks ?

Jerome


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

Jerome said:


> May I ask where you found this Rohloff Chain Device ?


Speedgoat and Universal Cycles both are showing that they have them. Those are my 2 "go-to" online shops; excellent CS experiences with both :thumbsup: I'm sure other places have them available too...

Cheers, Chris


----------



## Jerome (Dec 21, 2003)

Chris130 said:


> Speedgoat and Universal Cycles both are showing that they have them. Those are my 2 "go-to" online shops; excellent CS experiences with both :thumbsup: I'm sure other places have them available too...
> 
> Cheers, Chris


Thanks ! I found it for $60.00 at Speedgoat...

Jerome


----------



## XC Mike (Sep 26, 2004)

Just finished my 1x9 not sure if I need to shorten the chain anyone?


----------



## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

As the bike is a HT, yes, you do need to take out a link or two...:thumbsup:

You want the derailleur to be almost straight on the largest cog...not completely super tight straight, just a slight bend in the derailleur. This helps to prevent chain slap and helps stop the chain jumping off.


R.


----------



## agu (Jun 22, 2007)

mtbnachos said:


> Nice bike agu! The fork matches with the frame. How's that N-gear jump stop working for you? I have the same drivetrain but the chain keeps falling out.


Thanks MTBNachos! Well the SID was loaned to me by a friend, until the LBS (which he owns hehe) receives delivery of a Suntour Axon, with lockout...

Took it out on the trails yesterday and after some cockpit adjustments, I have to say I was pleasantly surprised by the whole package. The SID tracked well (I was concerned about flex after reading the reviews here), and combined with the HooDoo's geometry made for one responsive bike in twisty singletrack. Best of all? No drivetrain issues - just a few dings on the bottom part of the chainstay...now remedied.

The N-gear + RingDinger combo gave me no problems at all.


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

XC Mike said:


> Just finished my 1x9 not sure if I need to shorten the chain anyone?


Food for thought on 1x9 chain length here.

Cheers, Chris


----------



## stephen11364 (Jan 31, 2004)

Chris130 said:


> Food for thought on 1x9 chain length here.
> 
> Cheers, Chris


Thanks for the link / info!


----------



## XC Mike (Sep 26, 2004)

Thanks Guys!!


----------



## svs (Mar 11, 2008)

*Rd*

Haynes suggest the RD should be at 45 deg when on the largest cog. Like all the 1x9s here currently awaiting a Raceface guard to complete mine.


----------



## tpilk (Jan 4, 2008)

After lurking here for a few months, here's my 1x9.
It's an old Supergo Access Alu-Max frame that I stripped the paint off of.

Salsa 32 front chainring on some Specialized Strongarm II cranks that I put under a wire wheel to get through the black ano. 
Rear cassette is a PG-970 11-34t. Chain is a PC-971
SX-5 rear deraileur and an X-9 attack halfpipe shifter up front.
BB5 on the Zion fork, some ancient tektro v's on the back.

Haven't dumped the chain yet, but I guess that's only a matter of time. The fork reminds me of why I bought a suspension fork in the first place, but it's still pretty fun to ride. I'm going to put slicks on it and use it for street and commuting duty.








</a>


----------



## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

*"TruBlu"*

Here's mine in 1 x 9 config.

R.


----------



## tpilk (Jan 4, 2008)

Is that in Connecticut?


----------



## XC Mike (Sep 26, 2004)

Rainman said:


> Here's mine in 1 x 9 config.
> 
> R.


Wow nice ride


----------



## MattP. (Oct 3, 2005)

You better pray to god that there is no chain growth with that Niner!


----------



## EggsnBacon (Mar 12, 2007)

Here's my SlopeStyle w/ 150mm rear, XTR crankset/bb/cogs(11-32)/derailleur/shifter, nokon full metal jacket housing, heavily trimmed/modified LG-1 w/ taco, blackspire 36t chainring.


----------



## dudeStL (Feb 12, 2008)

1x8 . It's coming along. I hope to get some disc hubs/brakes soon. I don't know what kind of Manitou fork this is, it has 100-120mm of travel. S.I.C stem, profile/gt cranks, XTR brakes,hubs,gears,derailleur, crappy seat/post/clamp, etc...Shimano DX platforms.[/QUOTE]

Bought a DMR Revolver disc hub and laced it up, removed the v-brakes, and installed an 
Avid BB-5 disc brake. I then took a ride and decided that I really didn't like riding an aluminum frame, so I ordered a Black Market Mob 
frame from my LBS and I should have that next week.


----------



## dudeStL (Feb 12, 2008)

And here's the new Blk Mrkt Mob.









Yes, I still have some sketchy parts but this frame rocks.


----------



## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

*Checked...*



MattP. said:


> You better pray to god that there is no chain growth with that Niner!


Already checked it.. :thumbsup: and yes, there is, but the derailleur has enough play to compensate for it.

It looks tighter than it is in this pic..

I removed the rear shock and compressed the rear triangle to the full travel mark, before I cut and joined the Rohloff chain.

R.


----------



## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

tpilk said:


> Is that in Connecticut?


AU.

R.


----------



## tpilk (Jan 4, 2008)

Rainman said:


> AU.
> 
> R.


Whoops, wrong continent! Looks nice there though.


----------



## Duckman (Jan 12, 2004)

Old 2000 US made Moab. Aka "beater HT". Relegated to loaner, FS rd burner, mud bike, etc.


----------



## kvn2833 (May 5, 2007)

Hey i have a 32t sprocket up front with a 11-34 in the rear, i posted a pic earlier in the thread. My guide says it is for 32-34t up front, It appears it would allow a 36, it would just have the chain stick up a little past the bash guard. I have never hit the guard very hard before. Question is, since i barely use the lowest gear, would a 34t front sprocket at least give me one more gear so to say? Or should i get a 36t even if it sticks out a tiny bit?


----------



## NJ-XC-Justin (Jan 1, 2006)

kvn2833 said:


> Hey i have a 32t sprocket up front with a 11-34 in the rear, i posted a pic earlier in the thread. My guide says it is for 32-34t up front, It appears it would allow a 36, it would just have the chain stick up a little past the bash guard. I have never hit the guard very hard before. Question is, since i barely use the lowest gear, would a 34t front sprocket at least give me one more gear so to say? Or should i get a 36t even if it sticks out a tiny bit?


I'd be concerned about losing my chain going with a 36tooth chainring on a guide spec'd for 32-34. Though it's only a $38 risk, so what the hell. Personally I'd go for the 34-tooth first since that will be a noticeable difference.


----------



## kvn2833 (May 5, 2007)

NJ-XC-Justin said:


> I'd be concerned about losing my chain going with a 36tooth chainring on a guide spec'd for 32-34. Though it's only a $38 risk, so what the hell. Personally I'd go for the 34-tooth first since that will be a noticeable difference.


Yes i hear ya, it has a roller on top and is pinned in on both sides so losing the chain would be almost impossible, which is what gave me the 36 idea. Knowing that it would be a noticeable difference going toa 34 Is the answer i was looking for though. I would just like to be able to use all 9 cause first is too low. thanks


----------



## Rider_WV (Oct 15, 2007)

Hello, I just built a new Salsa El Santo and I am converting it to a 1x9. Can someone critique my set up? Custom bash guard and chain guide mocked up. Bash guard still needs some machining to lighten it up. How does the chain length look?

I left the granny ring in place since it doesnt weigh much. The big ring is a 36t.










guard (7075-T6 and its .250" thick at the OD)









guide(its not as close as it looks, crappy pic)


----------



## dudeStL (Feb 12, 2008)

That is one seriously beefy ring.


----------



## Rider_WV (Oct 15, 2007)

its not done, I need to whittle it down quite a bit. It was just a starting point. I hit a ton of logs and rocks so I want it beefy. The polycarbonate one on my hardtail has some nice gouges in it from hitting logs. 

Oh yeah do I need to turn my 36T ring around backwards since its a ramped unit?


----------



## Freerydejunky (Sep 21, 2006)

*My 1x9*

06 7Point
Gamut P20 34 ring up front 12-23 in da back!
I use it for all around riding. From North Start to XC rides at Demo


----------



## tturbotom (May 10, 2006)

After a few rides rides and a few new parts I think I have my 1x9 dialed in. I blew out my rear hub (not related to the 1x9 conversion) and broke a chain. I upgraded to a new dt swiss/xt wheel set, got a new chain and 32t front ring. I dropped 4 links from my chain and made some adjustments to my derailleur and everything seems to be running great. I am really looking forward to riding this season with a less complicated drivetrain.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Rider_WV said:


> Hello, I just built a new Salsa El Santo and I am converting it to a 1x9. Can someone critique my set up? Custom bash guard and chain guide mocked up. Bash guard still needs some machining to lighten it up. How does the chain length look?
> 
> I left the granny ring in place since it doesnt weigh much. The big ring is a 36t.


Looks good. Chainline looks ok. Shift to the 4th or 5th rear gear and see if the chain comes straight off the chainring.

Turning around the chainring won't help keep the chain from jumping. Singlespeed chainrings are nice because they have taller teeth than ramped and pinned shifty rings that keep jumps to a minimum. The rockguard and inner retainer combo you have will probably be enough. See my following post for ideas on how to reduce chain drops.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

*Ideas for reducing chain drops*

- A full upper box guide and lower roller guide. This is the most foolproof solution and can be run without an outer chainguard if you don't plan on bashing rocks or trees. The major disadvantages- Weight, friction and the need for mounting tabs. e13 is making some nice minimalist guards with adapters that can fit most bikes. I haven't used this because I ride most XC with several hours of steady pedaling so I try to reduce chain friction as much as possible.

- Inner / Outer chainguard sandwich. Anybody use the Straitline inner chainguard? Looks light and reliable. I'd like to try this sometime. If you don't regularly drop on top of protruding granite slabs, you can run some pretty thin, light outer guards. My Spot guard is only 58g and I've smashed it into some hard rocks without bending. Anybody tried a Ti or carbon guard?

- You can eliminate 90% of jumps by adjusting your pedaling. Don't backpedal during a fast, bumpy section if possible. I was surprised by how often I was backpedaling. Even better, keep pedaling if you can. In my experience on hardtails, the chain rarely jumps off the top of the chainring. It usually flops off the bottom of the ring where the chain tension is the least, and backpedaling will kick that sucker right off. This is why the right chain tension and chainline helps a lot. FS bikes I'd assume are more prone to jumping off the top of the ring.

Any others?


----------



## L4NE4 (Apr 24, 2007)

I am seein a lot of FireX cranks in this thread, how do you guys like them? I have a chance to get one for my XTC for $75. Good price? Its out board bearings and a bash guard too


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Check this out. They are making one for a single ring setup. Nothing on the MRP website yet.










https://www.pinkbike.com/news/mrp-xgc-2008.html


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Looks like MRP has been thinking about this 1x9 thing for a while. Check out this blog post on their website. Pretty cool.

http://www.mrpbike.com/blog/?p=34


----------



## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

Indiefab said:


> Looks like MRP has been thinking about this 1x9 thing for a while. Check out this blog post on their website. Pretty cool.
> 
> http://www.mrpbike.com/blog/?p=34


Nice writeup. I can't figure out why 1x9 setups aren't already _far_ more popular. I wish I'd done it many years ago! Between my 1x9 and my SS, I'll never own a stupid POS front derailleur again...

Cheers, Chris


----------



## Nocturnus (Mar 28, 2005)

Got a lil tried of the whole SS thing, so I converted my Monocog 29er over to a 1x9..


----------



## Entrenador (Oct 8, 2004)

*Derailer hanger available from Redline?*

That's pretty sweet. Had no idea that this option is readily available... or is it? Just sold my Karate Monkey frame and bought a geared-specific frame to ease the wheel installation while on the trail. Working well?


----------



## Nocturnus (Mar 28, 2005)

That hanger came from Greasy Comb Distribution. Had to use a dremel on it a little to get it to fit correct. Only bad thing is you have to totally remove the nut off the axle along with the derailuer to get the wheel off.



105millimetersofpleasure said:


> That's pretty sweet. Had no idea that this option is readily available... or is it? Just sold my Karate Monkey frame and bought a geared-specific frame to ease the wheel installation while on the trail. Working well?


----------



## euroford (Sep 10, 2006)




----------



## thachur (Jan 10, 2005)

euroford said:


> Sweet Ride


Very nice, clean.


----------



## xxbrandnew10xx (Mar 22, 2007)

Im about to start a build for hopefully a soul cycles matador as an all around rig, and i really would like to run 1x9 setup im thinking race face evolve dh cranks (on a budget) and from what ive been reading a 36t would be the best chainring for pedalling as well as freeride dh stuff is this correct? if anyone has some suggestions maybe a 34t im unsure ive never ridden a 1x9 bike but i really want to on my new bike. Again im on a budget, and am wondering whats the best durable set up, i was going to get a set of husselfelts but a friend talked me out of going that cheap on cranks. 
Sorry for the longer post im just really confused on what cranks for an all around freeride rig


----------



## Freerydejunky (Sep 21, 2006)

xxbrandnew10xx said:


> Im about to start a build for hopefully a soul cycles matador as an all around rig, and i really would like to run 1x9 setup im thinking race face evolve dh cranks (on a budget) and from what ive been reading a 36t would be the best chainring for pedalling as well as freeride dh stuff is this correct? if anyone has some suggestions maybe a 34t im unsure ive never ridden a 1x9 bike but i really want to on my new bike. Again im on a budget, and am wondering whats the best durable set up, i was going to get a set of husselfelts but a friend talked me out of going that cheap on cranks.
> Sorry for the longer post im just really confused on what cranks for an all around freeride rig


Depends on the cassette
12-23 with a 32, or 32
12-27 with a 34 
or 12-34 with a 36


----------



## calvus (Jan 18, 2008)

Awesome thread. I stumbled on this and it really convinced me that I wanted a 1X9. Felt good taking off the FD and shifter. So nice and clean now. 

Just put an X.9 med cage RD and shifter on, an 11-34 cassette, e.13 34T chianring, BBG ultralight bashguard, and a Jumpstop. 

Love it now. Especially with the RS Recon 351 that just got put on too.


----------



## dudeStL (Feb 12, 2008)

Finally got rid of my ancient Manitous. Just installed some Rock Shox Recon 335's and I'm gonna take it for a little night time ride.


----------



## jbf (Jan 28, 2004)

My new 1X9. CoreRat bash guard (86 grams) and home made lexan inner plate (24 grams).


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Papa like.

Show a pic of that lexan inner guard after a few rides to show how much wear and grease it gets.


----------



## wonky57 (Dec 1, 2007)

RL Polycog 1x9


----------



## patyoda (Apr 24, 2007)

*Homemade chain guides*

A general question about keeping the chain on. I admittedly haven't gone through the entire thread, just the first 5 or 6 pages, but I was wondering - are we overthinking the chain jump issue?

The homemade guides I've seen are all built in somewhat of an upside down U shape, basically surrounding the chain on all sides over the top of the chain ring. But isn't it impossible for the chain to move laterally at that point due to the chain ring teeth themselves? So shouldn't a simple bar above the chain that is close enough not to physically allow the chain to rise above the chain ring teeth serve the same purpose without the superfluous lateral guards? Or am I missing something?


----------



## wonky57 (Dec 1, 2007)

Probably would work in some set-ups. Get it made, do some testing, and start selling 'em.


----------



## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

patyoda said:


> A general question about keeping the chain on. I admittedly haven't gone through the entire thread, just the first 5 or 6 pages, but I was wondering - are we overthinking the chain jump issue?
> 
> The homemade guides I've seen are all built in somewhat of an upside down U shape, basically surrounding the chain on all sides over the top of the chain ring. But isn't it impossible for the chain to move laterally at that point due to the chain ring teeth themselves? So shouldn't a simple bar above the chain that is close enough not to physically allow the chain to rise above the chain ring teeth serve the same purpose without the superfluous lateral guards? Or am I missing something?


it doesn't work out in practice. I've tried a few designs like that, and somehow every time the chain gets munched as it gets unhooked then pushed the keeper out of the way when i pedal. All these folks running no chain keeper, or just a jumpstop, or 2 coins over the top of the chainring... they must not have too many obstacles on their trails. I've tried all those variations, and nothing has worked worth a damn once the trail gets 'fun.'

I'm using a 3rd eye that i flipped upside down and glued a piece of soft plastic on to the top of to keep the chain from popping up.... works flawlessly, and the chain can pop out w/o damaging the guide. ill post a pic some time. Also a mid cage deraileur.


----------



## bonedpwinkle (Apr 3, 2007)

Just switched to some shorter (and prettier) cranks and a Rholoff guide. Thanks go out to mechmann_mtb for the great advice! Thought I would share:


----------



## bonedpwinkle (Apr 3, 2007)

By the way, my old setup is for sale if anyone is interested:

Blackspire Lite God bashguard, Mono Veloce 32t ring and Blackguard (back guard). All in good condition, PM me if you like.


----------



## Hardguy (Nov 4, 2006)

Hey, Nocturnus. Can you tell me who makes your chain guide and where can I get one? Thanks in advance.



Nocturnus said:


> Got a lil tried of the whole SS thing, so I converted my Monocog 29er over to a 1x9..


----------



## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Hardguy said:


> Hey, Nocturnus. Can you tell me who makes your chain guide and where can I get one? Thanks in advance.


It looks like a DMR. At least Chainreactioncycles sold them last time I looked.


----------



## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

me too!










uhh, salsa 32t SS chainring, x-9 medium cage, some sort of 36t bashring, 991 11-32 cassette, and a 3rd eye that i flipped upside down and epoxied a milk top inside. Haven't dropped with this, and you can pull the chain out of the guide.


----------



## AaronZ636 (Jan 2, 2008)

Profile crankset w/36T imperial sprocket and E-13 LG-1 guide/tensioner. Still need to work a few quirks in the guide though.


----------



## hooker_47 (Apr 12, 2007)

I've been riding SS for about a year now, and it was taking a lot of the fun out of riding for me. So when I stumbled on this thread last week I decided to switch the bike over to a 1x8. I had all the parts, save a rear derailleur and a new shift cable. I had an old XTR cassette and front derailleur, so I decided to use them to switch over. Here are a couple of pics.










I cut the cage off the front derailleur, and left a lip on the top. I also used a longer screw in the "low" setting to push the cage out as far as it would go. It keeps the chain from moving up or to the side. To test it, I took the bike to Palmer Park (Colorado Springs) and pedaled and coasted through as many rock gardens as I could find. Not one slip or derailment.










I also built up two sets of rims, one for off-road and one for road riding/commuting. I have two different 8-speed cassettes (34/12 and 30/11). Switching back and forth caused no problems.

My only alibi in this whole setup is that I do not use the largest cog on either set of rims. The angle in the chain from the front chainring is more than I'm comfortable with. It doesn't really matter in the grand scheme of things. I didn't find myself shifting lower than the third cog on either set of rims anyway.

A pic of the chainline.










Parts list:

XT rear derailleur (long or medium?)
Alivio shifter
Blackspire 34t chainring
PC-58 chain
Race Face chainring guard (34t)
XTR front derailleur (adjusted with a Dremel)
34/12 XTR on mountain rims
30/11 XT on road rims

I have to honestly say, I had a lot of fun riding this weekend. I went much faster, and felt much more comfortable, especially on the technical climbs at Palmer. It was also nice to get out and get some speed up on the highway through Garden of the Gods. Best of all, instead of spending time coasting down hills, I was pedaling, taking some of the weight off my arms and my wrists. This was a by-product of having gears (the ability to upshift) that I hadn't thought about. I spend more time pedaling now and much less coasting. I am definitely going to keep the bike in this configuration for awhile.


----------



## stephen11364 (Jan 31, 2004)

bonedpwinkle said:


> Just switched to some shorter (and prettier) cranks and a Rholoff guide. Thanks go out to mechmann_mtb for the great advice! Thought I would share:


How do you like the cranks / chainring? I'm thinking of getting an ENO. What bb are you using?


----------



## bonedpwinkle (Apr 3, 2007)

stephen11364 said:


> How do you like the cranks / chainring? I'm thinking of getting an ENO. What bb are you using?


Love them. Stiff and smooth. I am using the WI Ti BB, it's super light and spins smooth.


----------



## stephen11364 (Jan 31, 2004)

bonedpwinkle said:


> Love them. Stiff and smooth. I am using the WI Ti BB, it's super light and spins smooth.


Cool. Thanks a lot. Good luck!


----------



## XC Mike (Sep 26, 2004)

Here's mine...............:thumbsup:


----------



## hooker_47 (Apr 12, 2007)

Well, somebody's listening...

http://www.redlinebicycles.com/adultbikes/d660.html


----------



## w00t! (Apr 28, 2008)

Here's my '03 Jamis Durango. The chain was dropping to the inside (only on rough trails, not while dirt jumping) so I shortened it yesterday, but I haven't had a chance to take it back out for reassessment yet.
The stock middle chainring is 32T, but I plan to try a 34 and a 36 and see where my preference lies. It feels liberating having removed all that "excess junk".


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

*This is a cross post, but I wanted to put this in the 1x9 forum.*

Okay, so I got the replacement Komodo frame in yesterday. I put the cups on it and finished the build today.









I Dremeled out the cable guides to run full length shift cable:

















Blackspire Blackguard helps keep the chain on with the 1x9 setup...bling,bling Diabolus cups









Plenty of guide ring clearance on this one for some reason:









Notice how the tire sits centered on the new frame (left), but shifted to the left on the old one (right):









My slik cable weave:









I have since moved one of the BB spacers to the left to give me a better chainline. I want to get a short cage derailleur at some point as well.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Anybody have chainline issues with their 1x9?

Mine is okay, but my tension pulley on the derraileur causes the lower portion of the chain to rub a little bit on the inner guide. I know that a short cage derailleur will probably solve it b/c it will lengthen the distance between the 32t and the derailleur causing less of an angle.

Anyone else with this issue?


----------



## skeered1 (Jul 30, 2007)

.....kudos to the OP....'learned a lot from this thread and wanna share whats i got and came up w/ dem lexan DIY inner chain guide. Now let's see if the pics co-opearate.....

......now using 28t eNVy chainring from phatmoosecycles of Canada (cheers to Dave and Ken) and protection brought to us courtesy of the $14 BBG bashguard of Erin B on eBay....


----------



## NJ-XC-Justin (Jan 1, 2006)

Raced XC Sport yesterday on my 1x9. I think it's a given I was the only racer present sporting 9 gears, which is somewhat funny given how popular 1-speed racing has gotten. It's as if people recognize the benefits of paring down your system but feel it's gotta be an all-or-none move.

Anyway, I did well on the climbs compared to the dudes spinning endlessly in their grannies, and never came close to spinning out. Yes again I feel the 1x9 (11-34 /32) is ideal but it's tough to be certain. Anyone else race XC on their 9speed?


----------



## Rip (Jan 12, 2004)

Current incarnation.


----------



## mtbnachos (Feb 1, 2007)

I did an endurance race w/ the exact gearing and it was pretty challenging. I have been training for several months prior to the race but after the 4th lap I really was starting to miss that granny ring. I eventually tired out in a hurry or maybe I'm not that greatest of shape. I think 1x9 is pretty ideal for short XC races but endurance ride of 50+ miles it's very difficult.

On my normal weekend rides and training rides I strictly ride 1x9 but will go back to 3x9 for endurance definitely.


----------



## mtbnachos (Feb 1, 2007)

Sick bike dude, what frame is that? Giant Anthem?


----------



## tsaffvail (Jul 11, 2003)

*chain choice*

What chain do you recommend for a "1X9" or "1X8"?

I am in the process of converting an old rocky mountain hammer race. I have the bash guard, 32t rampless chainring, and n-gear jump stop ready to roll.

Thanks!


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

tsaffvail said:


> What chain do you recommend for a "1X9" or "1X8"?
> 
> I am in the process of converting an old rocky mountain hammer race. I have the bash guard, 32t rampless chainring, and n-gear jump stop ready to roll.
> 
> Thanks!


Well you still need good shifting performance, so whatever I use on a 3x9 I use on a 1x9. In this case I recommend SRAM PC 971 chains. They're wonderful.:thumbsup:


----------



## mtbnachos (Feb 1, 2007)

+1 on SRAM chains. If you use 8 speed go PC8XX or 9 speed go PC9XX w/ power links. I've never really got into problems on my 1x9 setup yet!


----------



## banksd1983 (Jun 18, 2007)




----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

tsaffvail said:


> What chain do you recommend for a "1X9" or "1X8"?


Duh!! The Wippermann 9x1.

Stainless steel plates & rollers. Yummy, crunchy durability. Grease it and forget it. Use it as long as you dare. I usually replace it and the cassette after 2 seasons. I've got 2 SRAM PC991 chains that I've kept as backups, and haven't had to touch them in 3 years.

And props to banksd for the cleanest build, um... Ever. More pics please. OK if its dirty now.


----------



## NJ-XC-Justin (Jan 1, 2006)

These are mountain bikes, right? This ain't architectural digest -- get these 1x9s out there and get em dirty!


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

NJ-XC-Justin said:


> These are mountain bikes, right? This ain't architectural digest -- get these 1x9s out there and get em dirty!


I just hosed mud off mine for the 3rd time prior to that picture session:thumbsup:

Not a poseur here.


----------



## dnoyeb (Sep 23, 2007)

I find that I dont ever change the front gear when I ride. Usually I pick one based on the trail. My Specialized wouldn't shift well out the door. My new Fuel EX 7 front derailleur wouldn't either. The mechanic took offence to that and worked on it another 15m. Its better but still annoying.

I don't think I need that front derailleur but I do need the ability to change the front gear ring out without too much trouble. 

I think I will go to a single front. Lots of info on what people did here, but I don't know where to start. I think I can figure out the size I need on my own, but solutions to keep the chain on seem to be all over the place. Anyone have an idea of whats best needed for XC riding to keep that chain on?

Im thinking of converting my 08 Fuel EX7.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

The main thing is that you need an outer bash/guide ring.

For the inside:

I think that the "chain sandwich" works best barring a "full-on" chainguide, but is a little overkill for XC and definately weighs more.

















The N-gear Jumpstop is a fantastic product and works alot better than that little plastic "finger/claw" thingy and should be plenty adequate.


----------



## moto367 (Nov 20, 2006)

patyoda said:


> A general question about keeping the chain on. I admittedly haven't gone through the entire thread, just the first 5 or 6 pages, but I was wondering - are we overthinking the chain jump issue?
> 
> The homemade guides I've seen are all built in somewhat of an upside down U shape, basically surrounding the chain on all sides over the top of the chain ring. But isn't it impossible for the chain to move laterally at that point due to the chain ring teeth themselves? So shouldn't a simple bar above the chain that is close enough not to physically allow the chain to rise above the chain ring teeth serve the same purpose without the superfluous lateral guards? Or am I missing something?


The problem I'm finding with the guides and idea you're speaking of, the chain can still come off on the bottom side of the chainring. So you need a guide to allow the chain to roll back onto the entire chainring. If that makes sense...?


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

moto367 said:


> The problem I'm finding with the guides and idea you're speaking of, the chain can still come off on the bottom side of the chainring. So you need a guide to allow the chain to roll back onto the entire chainring. If that makes sense...?


Quite true, but it depends on your application and riding style. If you do alot of drops, then the chain can flop off the bottom with that downward impact necessitating a lower roller. If you're only doing XC, then you probably won't have much of a need for an inner ring or lower roller. The chain is moving forward, so if it comes off while the cranks are spinning, then it will want to come off the top side. I've had issues with extreme chainlines where I could "backpedal" and the chain would come off the bottom. If you fix your chainline though...it should not be an issue.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

patyoda said:


> A general question about keeping the chain on. I admittedly haven't gone through the entire thread, just the first 5 or 6 pages, but I was wondering - *are we overthinking the chain jump issue? *
> 
> The homemade guides I've seen are all built in somewhat of an upside down U shape, basically surrounding the chain on all sides over the top of the chain ring. But *isn't it impossible for the chain to move laterally at that point due to the chain ring teeth themselves?* So *shouldn't a simple bar above the chain that is close enough not to physically allow the chain to rise above the chain ring teeth serve the same purpose without the superfluous lateral guards?* Or am I missing something?


1. We are not overthinking the issue. Someone else overthought it and was hired by MRP, E.13, Truvativ, etc...to do so. It was the engineers job to think of the best way to design a chain retention device and they've done that for every application. The more "tame" applications were overthought by people like "N-Gear". They knew that a full-on chain guide would be too much for some applications. Blackspire and Straitline jumped on the bandwagon with products that bridges the gap between a "jumpstop" and a chainguide.

2. In a perfect world, it would be impossible for "the chain to move laterally at that point due to the chain ring teeth themselves", but we as MTB'ers have to deal with imperfections like frame flex and component flex.

3. A simple bar above the chain could be enough on tame trails but if the chain "wants" to derail, it will flex that bar up and out of the way b/c your legs and crankset generate alot of power. They put a bar above it now...it's just round and has the center milled out. It's smoother than a static bar b/c it rolls. Why not have the "U"?

It's a good theory, but a bar above the chain with no side-guard is more volatile to allowing the chain to derail than a jumpstop.


----------



## mtbnachos (Feb 1, 2007)

Anybody using a SRAM X-9 short cage on their 1x9? Im considering on buying one for my Soma Juice


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

mtbnachos said:


> Anybody using a SRAM X-9 short cage on their 1x9? Im considering on buying one for my Soma Juice


I've recently switched from X9 long to X9 short cage. No problems with either.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

mtbnachos said:


> Anybody using a SRAM X-9 short cage on their 1x9? Im considering on buying one for my Soma Juice


I don't intend for this to turn into a SRAM vs. Shimano thing, but I'm running a new XT Shadow GS short cage on my 1x9. (just installed) It's quite similar with the rigid "forward-stop" and the direct cable routing. I'm liking the short cage much better than my XT long cage that I previously used.

(32t x 11-34)


----------



## fujirider1 (Jun 26, 2006)

Quick question;

I thought with a 1x9 setup you would want to use a short cage rear derailleur because it will allow for the quicker shifts and such, but I see a lot of riders with long or medium cages. Those long or medium cages are almost parallel to the ground though, as if they're running their chain length to short, what is that all about? I just ordered a short cage X9 rear derailleur, and was wondering if that was really necessary? I know I could just use a long cage but it would be just a tad slower or something like that. But now I'm thinking the long or medium cage would be more versatile towards future drivetrain changes such as double ring upfront. I can probably still call the retailer and ask them for a different cage length, since they're all the same price. What do you guys think?


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

fujirider1 said:


> Quick question;
> 
> I thought with a 1x9 setup you would want to use a short cage rear derailleur because it will allow for the quicker shifts and such, but I see a lot of riders with long or medium cages. Those long or medium cages are almost parallel to the ground though, as if they're running their chain length to short, what is that all about? I just ordered a short cage X9 rear derailleur, and was wondering if that was really necessary? I know I could just use a long cage but it would be just a tad slower or something like that. But now I'm thinking the long or medium cage would be more versatile towards future drivetrain changes such as double ring upfront. I can probably still call the retailer and ask them for a different cage length, since they're all the same price. What do you guys think?


shorter is better for 1x9. I have a medium XT -- I got it because shimano doesn't make an XT short cage R-der. If they had made one, I'd have gotten that. the SRAM short cage would be cool but I don't know if I can use my rapid fire shifters with it- (I don't like grip shifters). I can't say what the deal is with the short chain, I follow the recommendation except I do use one less link than normal. This causes the chain to wrap a little tight around the cogs in low gears and makes a little noise but I think the advantage of not having jumps or sucks is worth a little noise. I'm running a jumpstop and nothing else and have dropped the chain twice in 2 years of mixed XC riding.
There are probably a bunch of answers to your questions above but mostly it's preference and sometimes just the parts you've got laying around.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

fujirider1 said:


> Quick question;
> 
> I thought with a 1x9 setup you would want to use a short cage rear derailleur because it will allow for the quicker shifts and such, but I see a lot of riders with long or medium cages. Those long or medium cages are almost parallel to the ground though, as if they're running their chain length to short, what is that all about? I just ordered a short cage X9 rear derailleur, and was wondering if that was really necessary? I know I could just use a long cage but it would be just a tad slower or something like that. But now I'm thinking the long or medium cage would be more versatile towards future drivetrain changes such as double ring upfront. I can probably still call the retailer and ask them for a different cage length, since they're all the same price. What do you guys think?


Shimano XT rear derailleurs are only available in GS and SGS. GS is like a med cage and SGS is a long. Both are shorter than previous GS and SGS AFAIK. I'm definately loving the Shadow. The spring has higher tension than the m760 that previously I had on it. It's nice and crisp with much less chain flop.


----------



## toyota200x (Sep 9, 2005)

I am happy to find this thread. I am thinking about doing this conversion.


----------



## banksd1983 (Jun 18, 2007)

reposted


----------



## w00t! (Apr 28, 2008)

Finished! (I hope)










BBG SuperLite bashguard and N-Gear Jumpstop.

https://www.bbgbashguard.com/

https://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CH409Z14-N+Gear+Jump+Start+Chain+Deflector.aspx


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

These all look great! I have been running a 1x8 for a while, but without a bashguard so I stop a lot to put my chain back on. Is a 32t bashguard enough to keep the chain on with a 32t ring, or does it always need a size up?


----------



## w00t! (Apr 28, 2008)

boomn said:


> Is a 32t bashguard enough to keep the chain on with a 32t ring, or does it always need a size up?


That's exactly what I have in the pic above your post (32/32). I haven't taken it out on the trail since installing those two pieces yesterday...I'll put it to the test later this evening.


----------



## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

mtbnachos said:


> Anybody using a SRAM X-9 short cage on their 1x9? Im considering on buying one for my Soma Juice


I use a short cage SRAM X9 on my RIP 9. Works great, 1 x 9.

R.


----------



## stephen11364 (Jan 31, 2004)

*Inbred*

Here are two updated pics of my 1X8...


----------



## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

A couple of pics of my latest gearing experiments. 1 x 9. 26 x 11-34.



R.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

26 x 11-34? Damn, what are you climbing?


----------



## NJ-XC-Justin (Jan 1, 2006)

Indiefab said:


> 26 x 11-34? Damn, what are you climbing?


Well its a 29er so i guess the gearing is a little tougher, but still 26 is real low.

I'm staying with my 32/11-34 for a bit. Last two races felt good and I'm much faster than last year with 27 gears. It's hard to explain what works for some people -- last year both my friend and i rode dualie 27 gears. This year I'm much improved on 9 speeds and he's killing it on a 29er hardtail, 27 gears. All I know is 9 speeds works for me.

A new tubeless wheelset that weighs a full pound less doesn't hurt either.


----------



## dudeStL (Feb 12, 2008)

I'm now using a 35x11-28. I commute about 10 miles a day on it and go jumping about 4-5 times a week. Seems to be working well so far.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

10 miles of commuting on that would make me beg for a Gravity Dropper.

Nice bike, but do you get tired of standing? Or does your commute basically consist of a session each way?


----------



## dudeStL (Feb 12, 2008)

chelboed said:


> 10 miles of commuting on that would make me beg for a Gravity Dropper.
> 
> Nice bike, but do you get tired of standing? Or does your commute basically consist of a session each way?


I have a longer post and seat that I stick on there for distances. It takes 5 seconds to swap 'em. I grew up riding a single speed BMX bike around town all day standing up. My short commute is nothing compared to how I use to do it. 
..And I only session on my way home:thumbsup:


----------



## dudeStL (Feb 12, 2008)

chelboed said:


> 10 miles of commuting on that would make me beg for a Gravity Dropper.
> 
> Nice bike, but do you get tired of standing? Or does your commute basically consist of a session each way?


Here's my Mob in commute mode. (longer post)


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

*This may be the best overall design*

It looks light and effective at avoiding chainjump.
The new MRP Mini-G









Read about it here
MRP Releases the Mini-G - Pinkbike.com


----------



## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

*Latest 1 x 9...*

Here's my latest 1 x 9 setup on my new MCR Niner, appropriately named "Mudd".

The rear cassette is a SRAM 11-34 and the front chain ring is a Middleburn 26 tooth. The derailleur is a SRAM X9 short cage.

It works very well.

R.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Technically a 1x8, but here is my old Trek. 34t Salsa chainring with Shimano 11-30t 8speed cassette. I just sold her this afternoon, and my new bike will absolutely be a 1x9:thumbsup:


----------



## 01Forester (Feb 5, 2007)

Here are my 2 1x8. 

The first one is my "riding around town with the kids" - a Devinci Kingpin frame I picked up used. Stripped it and painted it black, Alivio shifter, derailleur, crank. Deore v-brakes. I love riding that thing!

The second one is my commuter. Norco Plateau frame with Nashbar ridig fork, Deore LX derailleur and crank, Alivio shifter with frontg disc/rear Deore-V.

Both are running a Jump Stop (the Devinci liked to throw the chain but the Norco has never given me problems).


----------



## xctofi (Jun 10, 2006)

so whats the real score? is FD an ok and effective option but people just dont want to use one because it doesn't look "nice"?

will flipping the ramped chainring do any good as well in keeping the chain in place? im contemplating on going 1X9 (currently on SS and IMO it sucks!)

great bikes you guys got posted here


----------



## chucke (Feb 18, 2006)

I have been running a Jumpstop for a few months and I have it pretty dialed, but I still drop the chain here and there. I am getting fed up and I am ready to get a chain guide system. 

I am looking to get a G25 Gamut Chain Guide. I am not sure what mounting option I need to purchase. I am running a Truvativ Stylo SS 1.1 GXP Crankset. 

BB Mount? (me thinks this one will work) 
ISCG Mount?
ISCG-05 Mount?

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

chucke said:


> I have been running a Jumpstop for a few months and I have it pretty dialed, but I still drop the chain here and there. I am getting fed up and I am ready to get a chain guide system.
> 
> I am looking to get a G25 Gamut Chain Guide. I am not sure what mounting option I need to purchase. I am running a Truvativ Stylo SS 1.1 GXP Crankset.
> 
> ...


the mount style depends on your frame. if you have 3 ears/tabs on your BB on the drive side, then you have one of the ISCG styles. if you dont have those, you'll need the BB mount style.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

chucke said:


> I have been running a Jumpstop for a few months and I have it pretty dialed, but I still drop the chain here and there. I am getting fed up and I am ready to get a chain guide system.
> 
> I am looking to get a G25 Gamut Chain Guide. I am not sure what mounting option I need to purchase. I am running a Truvativ Stylo SS 1.1 GXP Crankset.
> 
> ...


Woah....hold off a second...

I was skeptical about the Blackspire Blackguard because it sounds like you and I have similar riding styles. I have not dropped a chain one single time, man.

You should really give this a look:


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

To get that "perfect chainline" I ended up pulling one BB spacer from the right and putting it on the left. That has nothing to do with the Blackguard though...more a frame/crankset thing.

After I did that, I filed the Blackguard down about 1mm to give myself a tiny bit more clearance with the frame.

I tell you man, it is perfect. No extra pulley's and brackets to clutter stuff up. If I were doing FR or DH, I'd go chainguide...but this is great for AM / Aggressive XC.


----------



## sl1111 (Jul 8, 2008)

I just got a new FS AM to bash around on and was going to convert my old bike into a SS for around town. I took it out yesterday and chose a mild gear to give it a test. I will say I am in no shape to ride a SS. What I did find was that while searching for the right SS combo I discovered I could do my whole ride in just one front ring. Then I stumbled on to this thread. Needless to say, I am converting my old bike to 1x9 ASAP...... Thanks for all the great info.


----------



## chucke (Feb 18, 2006)

Here's my On One Scandal. I am a big dum-dum, I still can't figure out what type of mount is needed for a chain guide....


----------



## Polar Bear (Mar 4, 2008)

*Half of a Rohloff*

Here's my 1x9 based on a Trek Fuel 100. I used half of the Rohloff for the inside and a bash guard for the outside.


----------



## pedalmunky (Mar 14, 2007)

BTI just ran out of the Blackspire Blackguard, and I don't think Straitlines ever came out with their inner plate, did they?

Anyone else know of any other inner guide (64 BCD) options?


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-2010-blackspire-blackguard-chain-guide-inner-plate.aspx

http://www.cactusoutdoors.com/store/category/4/25/Cranksets,-Chainrings,-Parts/

http://www.beyondbikes.com/bb/ItemMatrix.asp?GroupCode=BGBK6051&MatrixType=1


----------



## croatiansensation (Feb 21, 2005)

It pays to have a father in law who is a former machinist. Used his milling machine to make this inner chain guide for my 1x9 conversion. Thanks to all who posted in this thread. It was a valuable resource during the whole process. . .

The inner disk is made from .220" lexan and the outer ring is made from .095" lexan all of which was available at Home Depot. Bonded the two pieces together with an acrylic adhesive. Total weight including mounting bolts is ~115 grams.










chain just barely clears it when in the largest cog.


----------



## euroford (Sep 10, 2006)

hahaha, i also use my MOB as a commuter 

but i'm only about 2 miles, and my ride does basically consists of an urban session each way. no long post for me!


----------



## steel wheel (Apr 24, 2007)

aloah @ll..

anybody tried 30x11-34 with a dura-ace 9s derailleur? will it work or is the cage too short?

thanks, happy trails


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

30 tooth in the front and 11-39 in the rear.
I use all 9 gears on the trail.

30 tooth front chainring from www.extralite.com
39 tooth rear cogg from www.actiontec.us

Home made bash guard and a n-gear jump stop to keep the chain on.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

biketuna said:


> 30 tooth in the front and 11-39 in the rear.
> I use all 9 gears on the trail.
> 
> 30 tooth front chainring from www.extralite.com
> ...


Did you pay $60 for a 39t rear cog? How long could it possibly last?


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

I paid $72 and it's made out of titanium.
It should last a long time!!!!!!!


----------



## Gerolf (Feb 5, 2005)

Rohloff chainguide + Surly chainring = zero problems.



















Like it. Chainguide still to be pimped.


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

Rainman said:


> A couple of pics of my latest gearing experiments. 1 x 9. 26 x 11-34.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Why use a 26??? Lill" slow?

What is that thing growing over the dérailleur? Do you need that?


----------



## Bunglemutt (Dec 24, 2007)

chelboed said:


> Woah....hold off a second...
> 
> I was skeptical about the Blackspire Blackguard because it sounds like you and I have similar riding styles. I have not dropped a chain one single time, man.
> 
> You should really give this a look:


That BlackSpire BlackGuard seems impossible to source :skep: . Chelboed - where'd you score yours? Any alternatives from another manufacturer?

Cheers,


----------



## Ray Lee (Aug 17, 2007)

I got mine in a week from the manufacturer (shipping is outrages even for ground!) but I had new cranks to put on and my front D is an E type so I didn't want to wait.

http://www.blackspire.com/

Ray



Bunglemutt said:


> That BlackSpire BlackGuard seems impossible to source :skep: . Chelboed - where'd you score yours? Any alternatives from another manufacturer?
> 
> Cheers,


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

I got mine at Universalcycles.com

Currently out of stock, but it was pretty cheap when I got it.


----------



## AndysTrek (Jul 18, 2008)

Any thoughts on using the RaceFace Evolve XC Singlespeed Crankset for a 1X9 buildup?
http://www.masherz.com/products/raceface/evolvexccranksetssblack.htm
I've got an older Trek4500 sitting around next to a new one, and thought about turning old dusty into a 1X9. Didn't know if the RaceFace would work. Could just use the 22-32-44 on it now from what i gathered, just not sure how that would all go about happening. Besides its old. Need some new gear on it.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

It would work fine. You just need something on the inside to keep the chain on like the Blackspire Blackguard (my fav.) or the N-Gear Jumpstop.

Otherwise, the chain will slip off on the inside and eat your frame for lunch...not to mention cause random shin damage.


Instead of spending $$$ on a new crankset, just ditch your big ring and granny / buy a cheap outer bash ring / finally...get some sort of inner guard.


----------



## AndysTrek (Jul 18, 2008)

I've got a related question posted in "begs corner". Are tools required to get the FD off the bike? It's an older Trek 4500. Didn't know what tools would be required to break it down that far, in order to get the granny gear and front derailleur off.


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

"_Didn't know what tools would be required to break it down that far, in order to get the granny gear and front derailleur off._"

The derailleur will come off with either an 8mm or 9mm spanner or a 5mm Allen key, most likely. You won't be able to remove the granny ring without also removing the crank arm.


----------



## AndysTrek (Jul 18, 2008)

gotcha. So i do need a crank removal tool. I'm guessing the ParkTool CCP-4C? For isis/octalink?


----------



## AndysTrek (Jul 18, 2008)

Just to get this straight, i need an 8mm allen to undo the bolt on the crank arm. Then remove that, 44T chainring, and then use the crank puller? Rip it all out, remove, reassemble. Pretty much the gist of it?


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Which crankset do you have?

You'll find it easier to remove the chainrings when the crank is off the bike. You'll also need something like the Shimano TL-FC21 to remove the pegs on the 44T ring.


----------



## AndysTrek (Jul 18, 2008)

I've got the Shimano TL-FC21, and i just ordered PakTool crank remover. Should be enough to get to that little chainring. 42T is already off, bashguard is on. One question, on the M341 Crankset, when i remove the plastic dust cover, the hexhead screw im looking at; should it come off with just an 8mm allen key? It's frigging tight, gave it a test turn, nothing. Never removed a crankset before, so didnt know if the crank tool actually went in there to screww in, or if that screw should come out first. I've also got a park tool wrench on the way with an 8mm on it, and i have a chain whip, so should be able to break it free.... thanks for all the help SteveUK


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Is the M341 not used with a square-taper bottom bracket, meaning that you'd need the CCP-2? Check this Shimano PDF (link) to confirm and to familiarise yourself with the set=up.

It's not unusual for the arm cap to be tight. You just need to find more leverage with either a longer Allen key or some kind of pipe to act as a longer handle to the key you have. Note that you're also going to need a socket, 14mm if I remember correctly, to remove/refit the crank arm bolt. A chain whip is of no use to you for this task.


----------



## AndysTrek (Jul 18, 2008)

Well thanks for that doc. Heh, i already have a square taper, dang it. A buddy just bought a whole bunch of new parktools, and let go of a lotta stuff REALLY cheap. Only a few years old, so got a heck of a deal. I guess i just got an extra crank tool for later in life. I've got some long allens and an iron pipe that serves as a breaker bar. Haven't bothered to dig in yet till all the parts arrive. I can't stand just leaving stuff lying around. Thanks again for the documents. Pretty mechanically inclined, those diagrams are all i'll need now. Appreciate it more than you know.


----------



## AndysTrek (Jul 18, 2008)

+1 for SteveUK. Diagrams saved my life man, appreciate it tons. Got it taken apart and reassembled in a matter of maybe 20 minutes. Too easy to describe. Ran her for almost 15 miles today, never dropped the chain, had a heck of a workout. Freakin smooth and light now. Thanks again for all the help.

p.s. Why isnt this thread a sticky? Seems like a lotta great info in here...


----------



## rrrr (Aug 30, 2008)

Rainman said:


> Here's my latest 1 x 9 setup on my new MCR Niner, appropriately named "Mudd".
> 
> The rear cassette is a SRAM 11-34 and the front chain ring is a Middleburn 26 tooth. The derailleur is a SRAM X9 short cage.
> 
> ...


I also think 26t is the perfect front ring for a 29er. How did you get the granny ring into the correct chainline position?


----------



## dudeStL (Feb 12, 2008)

Update on my Mob. I replaced the old,long-cage,first generation, XTR derailleur with a new short-cage Deore XT. It shifts a little smoother now. 
I still don't dig the way my chainguide looks, but it has performed flawlessly for six months of commuting, and daily jumping sessions.:thumbsup:


----------



## juanbeegas (Oct 1, 2007)

Here's mine - 


















36T chainring in front and a 12-24 cassette in the rear.


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

Im subscribing to this, so i can read it all later, and hopefully post my converted 1x9 in a few weeks. 

Am i going to have any trouble at all with a Long Cage Rear D? Im buying a brand new Shimano SLX Shadow derailleur this week.

Should i go with a SGS (med cage) or a GS (long cage)? And if i decide to run a 2x9 setup, will i have any trouble shifting into my small front chain ring at all with a Medium cage?


----------



## juanbeegas (Oct 1, 2007)

Don't think you'll have a problem with a long cage, but it's not needed. 
If you really do decide to run a 2x9 in the near future, you'd probably be better off with the mid cage derailleur. I'm really quite happy with the 1x9 I have going and haven't had any problems. If I do foresee a ride with a long @ss climb, I usually switch to a 11-34 rear cassette and go with a 34T chainring upfront. Haven't found a need for a granny ring for a long time.


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

Thanks man. I am going to with a 11-34 rear cassette anyways. I guess im ordering my parts tomorrow.


----------



## Cody Broken (Oct 28, 2006)

A 1x7 beater trail bike. I can't afford nice bikes so I build wierd ones.


----------



## erringtonnc (Feb 16, 2008)

*Almost don viscious Metal Guru*

Just waiting on an x0 shifter and then I can put on the X0 rear short cage. Bike is a Viscious Cycles Metal Guru with Fox f100rlc, mavic slr's, Eno 175mm cranks with 36t ring.


----------



## slowpoker (Jun 4, 2008)

WOW! That looks awesome. I'm still a long way away with my build. Don't know if I can show it after seein' that.


----------



## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

slowpoker said:


> WOW! That looks awesome. I'm still a long way away with my build. Don't know if I can show it after seein' that.


show it so we can get ideas too.

I thought of this 1x7 thing the other day, but was like, "no way that'll work, now I have inspiration.


----------



## Cody Broken (Oct 28, 2006)

Damn, erringtonnc. Great timing posting your beauty RIGHT AFTER I post my junker!
Just kidding, really an excuse to bump this thread.


----------



## erringtonnc (Feb 16, 2008)

*Some updates.*

Not being able to leave things alone I have been selling some stuff on ebay and using the proceeds to buy some stuff for this new bike. Oro K24's, XO shortcage rear D and shifter. xtr pedals, King headset and ventana 4mm race to clear up the fork clearance issues I was having. Overall I am very glad that I went 1x9 on this bike it is making me really enjoy riding again. The only downside is that now I am hankering after a singlespeed.

Cody, I really like your bike, has a track\cross bike look to it. Very cool.


----------



## dinoadventures (May 2, 2008)

Dang! You beat me to it, and with a totally gorgeous build. I thought I was gonna be the first to post ENO-short X0 rear.
Have this, though...
















I've replaced a lot of the cheapy bits on there since then (saddle, etc) but you get the idea.


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

Damn, Dino, i love your bike. That thing is gorgeous! And Errington, yours has really turned out nicely as well. Im jealous. I cant wait to post mine up in a few days once i get my last pieces of 1x9 gear in!


----------



## spartan034 (Apr 5, 2007)

how do you not contantly drop you chain with that eno/ short xo set up? I have a jumpstop, bash, long cage deraillure, and i still manage to drop my chain every now and then....


----------



## ibismojo2001 (Jul 21, 2006)

*Mooto X YBB 1x9*

Here is mine


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

ibismojo2001 said:


> Here is mine


A full Moots YBB setup with ti post and stem, CrossMax wheels, Reba, X0 der, CrankBros crankset, Juicys (carbon?), Eggbeaters (Ti?) and that funky new italian saddle. Did I miss anything? I can only assume there is an X0 rear trigger shifter hanging on a Moots Ti bar. That's gotta be the most valuable, and probably most beautiful 1x9 build on this whole five hundred and thirty post thread.
goodonya


----------



## ibismojo2001 (Jul 21, 2006)

Indiefab said:


> A full Moots YBB setup with ti post and stem, CrossMax wheels, Reba, X0 der, CrankBros crankset, Juicys (carbon?), Eggbeaters (Ti?) and that funky new italian saddle. Did I miss anything? I can only assume there is an X0 rear trigger shifter hanging on a Moots Ti bar. That's gotta be the most valuable, and probably most beautiful 1x9 build on this whole five hundred and thirty post thread.
> goodonya


Thanks! Spot on. Juicy carbons and eggbeaters, I did replace the Crank Bros cranks with Noirs as I've now broken two set of those cranks.

However the Reba is over 2 yrs old so may be time to replace:thumbsup:


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

ibismojo2001 said:


> I did replace the Crank Bros cranks with Noirs as I've now broken two set of those cranks.


I was so tempted to invest in those cranks when they came out- and so glad I didn't. You'll have to give us a review of the Noirs. They were my another of my bikeporn objects of obsession.


----------



## DaggerMadd (Dec 21, 2006)

Actually, longer rear derailleurs are more prone to chain drops than shorter ones...


----------



## erringtonnc (Feb 16, 2008)

Dino That is a very nice ride. the black crankset is v\nice.

Spartan, I am using an Ngear jump stop and shortcage D's are less prone to chain drop\slap than long D's. When setting up the chain Iength I followed Sram's instructions.


----------



## ibismojo2001 (Jul 21, 2006)

Indiefab said:


> I was so tempted to invest in those cranks when they came out- and so glad I didn't. You'll have to give us a review of the Noirs. They were my another of my bikeporn objects of obsession.


I have to say after years of ISIS cranks in some sort or another I really like the stiffness of the Noirs. They are sweet but do need a non carbon bashguard on the ends 'cause rocks can be not so friendly.

You should know while I love my ride, I have a buddy with a sweet Ericksen 1x9 set up with Stans and CKs, martas, White Bros and he just put on a Noir as well. Loves it. It is a sweet looking ride!


----------



## spartan034 (Apr 5, 2007)

Yes, but do you have any chain drop issues?


----------



## dinoadventures (May 2, 2008)

spartan034 said:


> how do you not contantly drop you chain with that eno/ short xo set up? I have a jumpstop, bash, long cage deraillure, and i still manage to drop my chain every now and then....


Assuming you have a singlespeed chainring up front and your chainline to the middle rear cog is good, it's either your chain length or your rear derailleur or both. The short cage rear REALLY helps as you pretty much need almost no capacity. That said, I have a friend who runs a jumpstop, bash, short cage rd, and has his chain at the appropriate length and he still drops chain to the inside as his shifting habits are very different from mine. I think we're going to wind up pulling the jumpstop and running an inner guard to sandwich the chain on his.

I took this to some pretty savage terrain this past weekend (long series of 18" drops and treading long, long fields of rocks and other things this bike's not meant to do) and I didn't drop chain once. That said, on this build my chain basically is my bashguard so the chain took a hell of a beating. I'm definitely not running any weight weenie chains on this setup as it'll get tore up fast and I'll make it back to my car with a chain that's half quick links  All you people with non-lockring cranks (99% or so) can pretty much ignore that as you can go ahead and mount something up to protect the chain if you kick up rocks on the terrain you ride.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

dinoadventures said:


> Assuming you have a singlespeed chainring up front and your chainline to the middle rear cog is good, it's either your chain length or your rear derailleur or both. The short cage rear REALLY helps as you pretty much need almost no capacity. That said, I have a friend who runs a jumpstop, bash, short cage rd, and has his chain at the appropriate length and he still drops chain to the inside as his shifting habits are very different from mine. I think we're going to wind up pulling the jumpstop and running an inner guard to sandwich the chain on his.
> 
> I took this to some pretty savage terrain this past weekend (long series of 18" drops and treading long, long fields of rocks and other things this bike's not meant to do) and I didn't drop chain once. That said, on this build my chain basically is my bashguard so the chain took a hell of a beating. I'm definitely not running any weight weenie chains on this setup as it'll get tore up fast and I'll make it back to my car with a chain that's half quick links  All you people with non-lockring cranks (99% or so) can pretty much ignore that as you can go ahead and mount something up to protect the chain if you kick up rocks on the terrain you ride.


If it helps at all, I found out this week that Erin at BBG will make inner chain guards by request. I assume they would be pretty cheap


----------



## rugbyred (Aug 31, 2006)

*Going back to a 1X9*

Hello,
I am going back to a 1X9 as I am hating the front derailleur more and more. 
Was wondering if I can keep my short cage (X9) with a 36 & 11-32? I am presently running a 36-24 & 11-28 (modified DH cassette). I am afraid I might miss out on a few climbs without the lower gears.
Thanks,
Eric


----------



## dinoadventures (May 2, 2008)

rugbyred said:


> Hello,
> I am going back to a 1X9 as I am hating the front derailleur more and more.
> Was wondering if I can keep my short cage (X9) with a 36 & 11-32? I am presently running a 36-24 & 11-28 (modified DH cassette). I am afraid I might miss out on a few climbs without the lower gears.
> Thanks,
> Eric


I believe you can. If you're worried about climbing, you can swap to an 11-34 in the rear which would give you almost 1:1. On mine, I run 32/11-34 and only really, really loose stuff requires the top gear.


----------



## spartan034 (Apr 5, 2007)

You will be fine with a 32 and 11-34 combo, but going with a bigger front it up to you, it just depends what kind of terrian, bike, and rider you are.


----------



## rugbyred (Aug 31, 2006)

I would like to keep my 36 tooth up front so I am going to see how the 36, 11-28 in the back works out.
If it doesn't, then I will try with an 11-32. 
What I am not to sure about is if my X9 short cage derailleur can handle the 11-32 with a 36 up front.
As for what I ride, a little of everything. I like to earn my turns, so I tend to climb up.
Thanks once again for your help.
Eric


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

rugbyred said:


> I would like to keep my 36 tooth up front so I am going to see how the 36, 11-28 in the back works out.
> If it doesn't, then I will try with an 11-32.
> What I am not to sure about is if my X9 short cage derailleur can handle the 11-32 with a 36 up front.
> As for what I ride, a little of everything. I like to earn my turns, so I tend to climb up.
> ...


Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the limitation of a short-cage derailleur has nothing to do with the size of the chainring or the size of the largest cog alone. It is limited by the difference in chain length required by the desired gear combinations.

My point is, if you see anyone else use a short-cage derailleur on an 11-34t cassette and a 32t chainring, it will work just as well with a 36t chainring because they have the same difference in chain length betwen possible gears


----------



## slowpoker (Jun 4, 2008)

Errington, is your front brake on the right? I have never ridden a bike with that set up.


----------



## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

*Finally! the MRP Mini-G*

Just got it installed last night. Supposedly, this is the 2nd one shipped. Looks like it's going to be a winner!


----------



## AndysTrek (Jul 18, 2008)

*Sticky.....*

sticky.... Seriously. Too much good info.


----------



## Glynis27 (Sep 28, 2007)

boomn said:


> Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the limitation of a short-cage derailleur has nothing to do with the size of the chainring or the size of the largest cog alone. It is limited by the difference in chain length required by the desired gear combinations.
> 
> My point is, if you see anyone else use a short-cage derailleur on an 11-34t cassette and a 32t chainring, it will work just as well with a 36t chainring because they have the same difference in chain length betwen possible gears


So with my 32T chainring 1x9 setup and 11-34 cassette I should be running a GS and not the SGS RD? I ordered a SGS today. Hopefully they will let me change my order.


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

Glynis27 said:


> So with my 32T chainring 1x9 setup and 11-34 cassette I should be running a GS and not the SGS RD? I ordered a SGS today. Hopefully they will let me change my order.


Yes. Go with the GS. I have an SLX GS rear derailleur on my 32T 11-34 setup right now, and i love it.


----------



## Glynis27 (Sep 28, 2007)

ZenkiS14 said:


> Yes. Go with the GS. I have an SLX GS rear derailleur on my 32T 11-34 setup right now, and i love it.


Cool, I will call and change my order in the morning. I currently have a SGS LX rear derailluer, and it touches the chainstay in all but the largest rear cog, even when I'm not riding. POS springs.

Will have the new RD on and pictures up here within the next week or 2.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Yup...I'm running the XT shadow short and luv'n it.


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

"_.I'm running the XT shadow short and luv'n it._"

I believe that the XT Shadow is either medium or long cage. Only the Saint Shadow uses a short cage.


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

Mine is a SLX Shadow Med. (GS).

I'm picking up my bashguard today, and hopefully gonna get the N-Stop later this week, i'll have pics of the 1x9 Cannondale up next weekend hopefully


----------



## dboyzalter (Sep 30, 2008)

Wow I'm glad I found this thread. I originally had my 1x9 set up with a kore chain reactor to prevent the chain from falling off.. it worked on the road but once I hit the trail the chain started to come off.. and the resulting ugly chain marks on my frame did not really make me so happy.. anyways I ordered the jump stop today and will hopefully be in business in a few days.. guess I'll be riding the singlespeed till them  I Dont mind at all haha..

thanks again for the great thread.. here is the only thing that would have been more helpful on the first page.. it might be there but I didnt find it... be on the lookout for a xtr front derail comeing to Ebay soon...

http://www.gvtc.com/~ngear/index.html


----------



## Tubedriver (Sep 19, 2008)

Here is mine


----------



## dinoadventures (May 2, 2008)

hooray! another 1x9 from the north country, and a sharp-lookin' one at that.
i wish i could run Speed Kings down here but as we don't have dirt, only loose-over-hardpack, that would be washout city.


----------



## Tubedriver (Sep 19, 2008)

Thanks. The Speed Kings have been a bit of a disappointment. They do not have nearly the overall grip of the 2.3 Vertical pros I was using or the older Explorer Pro. They wash out pretty quick when you start to lean into turns. They are light and roll fast but I will be trying the Race kings next and if that does not work I will go back to my trusty Vertical Pros.



dinoadventures said:


> hooray! another 1x9 from the north country, and a sharp-lookin' one at that.
> i wish i could run Speed Kings down here but as we don't have dirt, only loose-over-hardpack, that would be washout city.


----------



## Affe (Dec 4, 2007)

I thank this thread for inspiring me and finding my inner self and the peace with my better half! Never been so close to her before. After seeing her only for a couple of months being experienced enough with relationships I knew this is going to be the one and soon some serious decisions had to take place and that's the best thing I ever did!

Hope you like. It's a 34T ring front and 11-34 cassette with a Jump Stop that I would have never found without this thread.


----------



## dinoadventures (May 2, 2008)

Tubedriver said:


> Thanks. The Speed Kings have been a bit of a disappointment. They do not have nearly the overall grip of the 2.3 Vertical pros I was using or the older Explorer Pro. They wash out pretty quick when you start to lean into turns. They are light and roll fast but I will be trying the Race kings next and if that does not work I will go back to my trusty Vertical Pros.


I'm so gonna roll those race king 2.2's when I can get hands on them. I'm just marginally too frugal to swing the $27 to have them shipped from CRC right now.


----------



## slowpoker (Jun 4, 2008)

My '99 Fisher that used to be a Ziggurat. I removed the spring and cable clamp from the front derailleur, and dropped it all the way down. It has worked great so far.


----------



## David9999999 (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi, I was thinking about converting my bike to 1x8, and I was wondering about chain shortening.. because I noticed some guys were shortening their chains, but by how much? Is there a way to figure it out or is it just guesswork? Thanks.


----------



## Glynis27 (Sep 28, 2007)

Just got my SLX RD in yesterday and have it running now. No more chainslap or RD contacting the chainstay. I'm very happy with how it turned out.




























I'm running a RaceFace Evolve DH crankset with 32T ring, Blackspire Blackguard, Stinger, 991 chain, 970 11-34 cassette and a SLX GS pulled by a SRAM Attack shifter.

This winter I will be building my new wheelset and installing my 990 cassette to shave off about a pound. Then it will be time to save for a new fork.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Very nice! Are you running BB7's? Where'd ya get your frame? I want one.


----------



## Glynis27 (Sep 28, 2007)

chelboed said:


> Very nice! Are you running BB7's? Where'd ya get your frame? I want one.


Yes, I have BB7s. When I first got them, they were crap, but after they got broken in they became awesome. I see no need for anything else. Maybe a larger rotor up front at some point, but only for the looks, lol.

I got the frame from THC early this spring.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Thc?

TBC?


----------



## Glynis27 (Sep 28, 2007)

chelboed said:


> Thc?
> 
> TBC?


Sorry. THC = Trail Head Cycles.


----------



## slowpoker (Jun 4, 2008)

David9999999 said:


> Hi, I was thinking about converting my bike to 1x8, and I was wondering about chain shortening.. because I noticed some guys were shortening their chains, but by how much? Is there a way to figure it out or is it just guesswork? Thanks.


I wrapped my chain around The front ring, and the biggest cassette ring without going though the derailleur, and added 4 links (2 open links, and 2 closed links). Works good for me.


----------



## WickedKillerV (Jul 27, 2008)

WOW, i like everybodies ride. Especialy that KONA coiler, im sure everyone will agree with me that bike looks like it will realy take a freekin beatin. i figured it out though seing as how i already have a 34 tooth blackspire ring god bash gaurd im going to purchase a 34t DH ring and get that jumpstart chain deflector. 1x9 deore xt. i hope this will suit me well anyone have any complaints about the setup?


----------



## WickedKillerV (Jul 27, 2008)

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CG302B00-Race+Face+Diabolus+Chainguide+08.aspx

i was also considering this because i think the 36 tooth might add a bit more umph that i need in top gear for speed on flats.


----------



## dinoadventures (May 2, 2008)

WickedKillerV said:


> WOW, i like everybodies ride. Especialy that KONA coiler, im sure everyone will agree with me that bike looks like it will realy take a freekin beatin. i figured it out though seing as how i already have a 34 tooth blackspire ring god bash gaurd im going to purchase a 34t DH ring and get that jumpstart chain deflector. 1x9 deore xt. i hope this will suit me well anyone have any complaints about the setup?


if you're doing DH/FR on it, consider a full chainguide for sure. for XC use, the bashguard/jumpstop thing works pretty well.


----------



## WickedKillerV (Jul 27, 2008)

*k*

I do I have to buy a ring?


----------



## David9999999 (Sep 14, 2008)

My 1x8... front derailer works as a good chain guide, no issues to date.


----------



## WickedKillerV (Jul 27, 2008)

so for now, i want to rid my bike of the front deralier. i have both rings on there and the blackspire ring god. but the deralier is broken its realy loose and rubbing my chain once and a while and kicking it off either onto the bottom ring or onto the bb. if i just buy the bump stop today will it work with a ring with ramps untill i get a dh/fr ring?


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

WickedKillerV said:


> so for now, i want to rid my bike of the front deralier. i have both rings on there and the blackspire ring god. but the deralier is broken its realy loose and rubbing my chain once and a while and kicking it off either onto the bottom ring or onto the bb. if i just buy the bump stop today will it work with a ring with ramps untill i get a dh/fr ring?


You should be fine. Thats what i am doing. I have a 32T bash guard on now, and will be installing my JumpStop and removing my F D next week. I will just be running the OEM shimano chain ring with ramps. As long as you have protection on both sides (ie: Bash Guard and JumpStop OR Big Chain ring and JumpStop), you should be fine to run a regular ramped chain ring. I think most the guys that are running SS chain rings are doing so, so that they dont have to run a chain guide or bashguard etc....

Cliffs: You should be fine.


----------



## WickedKillerV (Jul 27, 2008)

*My Giant VT3*

i havent shifted out of the 32 tooth ring since i bought it so i guess you can say im running 1X9. blackspire ring god, and a deore XT rear derailier.


----------



## WickedKillerV (Jul 27, 2008)

so you say you can run a shorter chain? how much shorter im running the same setup, well i mean in comparison to ring sizes. i have some of the worst chain slap and the chain is a 9speed sram original size out of the box.


----------



## dinoadventures (May 2, 2008)

your long cage derailleur is largely to blame, but you'll need to take off a bunch of links anyway. on mine, i took off just enough links to make the short cage not rub against chain when in the smallest gear, then wound up taking out two more links after some more tuning and adjustment.


----------



## WickedKillerV (Jul 27, 2008)

so you like a short cage? that would make sense less extra chain to bounce around but no chain to spare on the trail if i bust it. so how many links might you say i can take out now? maybe 5? or more?


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

I took out 2 or 3 full links (2pieces per link) i think when i did mine. And im running a medium cage derailleur


----------



## slowpoker (Jun 4, 2008)

WickedKillerV said:


> so you like a short cage? that would make sense less extra chain to bounce around but no chain to spare on the trail if i bust it. so how many links might you say i can take out now? maybe 5? or more?


Just wrap your chain around the front ring and the biggest cassette ring, without going through the derailleur, and ad 2 full links(2 open links and 2 closed links). I just counted what I took off my new sram chain, and it is 6 full links(6 open and 6 closed). BTW I use a shart cage with almost NO chain slap. Oh yeah, 32 x 11-34.


----------



## metallicjester (Sep 26, 2007)

this thread isawesome andi know have a question about a build of my own now. iam starting to build a surly karate monkey and its gonna be a you guessed it 1x9. im advance planning on running a truativ stylo single speed up front and a sram x9 short cage but do i need to run a 11-32 rear cassette or can i get away with a 11-34 thanks in guys this really makes me want to get mine done even quicker hahaha.


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

You should be able to do the 1134 just fine. I dont see why you wouldnt be able to, even with that short cage derailleur. 

Someone else may be able to fill you in with some more educated info other than myself however.


----------



## dinoadventures (May 2, 2008)

use the one you got. you'll be fine with either, just one has diff ratios and an easier top gear.


----------



## ScottyGBR (Sep 1, 2008)

metallicjester, this is covered pretty extensively earlier in this thread, but to save you some digging here is a summary:

An SRAM x9 Short Cage Mech has a chain-wrap capacity of 32t, chain wrap requirement is calculated by the following:

(largest sprocket - smallest sprocket) + (largest chainring - smallest chainring)

As you are running a 1x9, you can lose the chainring bits (as this part = 0) and your calculation looks like this:

(34t - 11t) = 23t 

which is well within the limits of the SRAM x9 (which is why I have one on my new 1x9)


----------



## Tubedriver (Sep 19, 2008)

I run a 32 front and 11-32 or 11-27 on the rear. I use a Ultegra short cage with no problems.


----------



## ScottyGBR (Sep 1, 2008)

Yeah the ultegra short has a 29t chain-wrap capacity and probably gives tighter shifting as well. Tubediver, how do you get on when you're running the 11-32; I thought the ultegra was limited to a largest cog of 27t?


----------



## Tubedriver (Sep 19, 2008)

The short cage ultegra works fine with the 11-32 cassette, no problems at all. In fact setup with the B tension screw was easier than with an older medium cage XTR derailler.



ScottyGBR said:


> Yeah the ultegra short has a 29t chain-wrap capacity and probably gives tighter shifting as well. Tubediver, how do you get on when you're running the 11-32; I thought the ultegra was limited to a largest cog of 27t?


----------



## SoCaliking (Mar 5, 2007)

*GReaT ThreaD*

Truly a great dialog...

anyhow...

I have my Anthem down to 23 and change....

LOVE 1X9'S !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

yEEE HaW


----------



## humboldtnorth (Oct 2, 2008)

You guys that are using the White Industries ENO cranks on your 1x9s, how are the White Ind. chainrings working with the 9 speed chain. White Ind. says to use a 8 speed chain or wider. Are you finding that the 9 speed chain works. Thinking about going that route myself if it works.

Thanks.


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

What's the reason for WI cranks? What size chain ring are you planning for the front?


----------



## dinoadventures (May 2, 2008)

humboldtnorth said:


> You guys that are using the White Industries ENO cranks on your 1x9s, how are the White Ind. chainrings working with the 9 speed chain. White Ind. says to use a 8 speed chain or wider. Are you finding that the 9 speed chain works. Thinking about going that route myself if it works.
> 
> Thanks.


Works fine with the SRAM 991. Here's the thing tho... you may have some probs with dropping chain when on a small rear cog rolling over roots while pedaling. You can't run a bashguard on them for obvious reasons. You can run a jumpstop (oriented somewhat diagonally) and that gets you most of the way there and solves half the problem. What I'm going to try is running a bb-mounted Blackspire Stinger, but I need to hunt down a longer bb as my 110mm one doesnt give me the crank arm clearance I need. The thing is, WI cranks are narrow as hell (they have a Q-factor of practically nothing) and they have clearance issues with things like that sometimes.


----------



## bonedpwinkle (Apr 3, 2007)

humboldtnorth said:


> You guys that are using the White Industries ENO cranks on your 1x9s, how are the White Ind. chainrings working with the 9 speed chain. White Ind. says to use a 8 speed chain or wider. Are you finding that the 9 speed chain works. Thinking about going that route myself if it works.
> 
> Thanks.


Mine work perfectly with a SRAM 9s chain and Rholff chain guide. I have never dropped the chain, ever. I did have to modify the chain guide quite a bit though (shorten spacers and grind the plates to a better shape for my frame), but have not had to touch it since.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

*The new OneByNine*


----------



## dinoadventures (May 2, 2008)

bonedpwinkle said:


> Mine work perfectly with a SRAM 9s chain and Rholff chain guide. I have never dropped the chain, ever. I did have to modify the chain guide quite a bit though (shorten spacers and grind the plates to a better shape for my frame), but have not had to touch it since.


Hey, could you post a few pics of the chainguide setup? I wasnt pleased with how the last ENO/Rohloff thing I saw looked and yours sounds a lot better.


----------



## holiday (Apr 27, 2004)

I've never seen this thread, good pics, nice to see like minded people i didn't know about. i built my first 1x9 about 10 years ago, road my single speed almost exclusively for 5 years and have been riding 1x9 now for about 4 years w only occasional jaunts on my SS.

This bike setup has been great for me, and won Dville AM sport class this summer. Many thought the 33 would be too steep for the 1 hr steep climb (8 miles, over 3K ft), but it was perfect, many thought the 33 would be too small for pushing the speed on 3rd devide and 1st devide to generate speed, but it was perfect... 1x9 is perfect for me!

I have 3 years and 3 bikes on this front crank, race face dues, 33 tooth SS chainring and 2 42 tooth large chainrings ground down to create a chain guide and bash guard.

I'm due for a BB and crank and decided to look around and see if there is better/lighter set up around.

so, i'm thinking Chris King BB, not sure what crank, maybe FSA carbon, and hoping to find some 42 tooth used up TI chainrings to shape into my guide. or, is the new MSR guide a better/lighter way now?

cheers,
Holiday


----------



## bonedpwinkle (Apr 3, 2007)

dinoadventures said:


> Hey, could you post a few pics of the chainguide setup? I wasnt pleased with how the last ENO/Rohloff thing I saw looked and yours sounds a lot better.


Sure, sorry about how dirty she is, but it is a MTB after all. ; )


----------



## andymart (Oct 19, 2008)

*My 1x9*

Decided to go 1x9 cus i never use the granny and only use the big v rarely. 33t up front with jumpstop, took it for first run today felt great. May put a short cage SLX mech on.


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

andymart said:


> May put a short cage SLX mech on.


Do it. I have a Medium cage (shortest you can get in SLX) on my bike, and while its still a 2x9, i love the RD. I cant swap mine to 1x9 until i get ahold of some crank tools to remove the crank arm to get the granny ring off.


----------



## andymart (Oct 19, 2008)

*Re slx rear mech*

ordered 1 today!!!


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

andymart said:


> ordered 1 today!!!


I love mine!


----------



## digitalfeend (May 9, 2006)

*My 1x9 29er*

Finally got around to snapping a few pics of my ride before ripping it apart for winter maintenence.

Intense Spider 29
Full XT drivetrain, XT brakes, Industry9 wheelset, FSA bashguard with homemade jumpstop for now
Upgrading to Gamut g25 that I plan to modify slightly, and will be switching SGS derailleur to a GS


----------



## phoeve (Mar 10, 2008)

Hey Rainman!

I tried the same setup Shimano 26t with 11-34. When I stand and hammer the chain slips sometimes. I do like the ratios. I did shorten the chain to specs. However I'm running a XT long cage in the back. Chainline is very good. Small ring (inner) lines up with the middle of the cassette.

Would a Middleburn ring help? My small (inner) ring does not look too worn - but the teeth are pointy looking compared to yours. Or should I try a new chain?

Thanks!



Rainman said:


> Here's my latest 1 x 9 setup on my new MCR Niner, appropriately named "Mudd".
> 
> The rear cassette is a SRAM 11-34 and the front chain ring is a Middleburn 26 tooth. The derailleur is a SRAM X9 short cage.
> 
> ...


----------



## dnoyeb (Sep 23, 2007)

I'm still trying to make the jump. A few questions.
I have a Fuel Ex7 2008 model.

*Derailleur*
The rear derailler is a Shimano Deore XT "shadow". From the lookup it appears to be the M772-GS. This means its the medium cage. Is this the smallest I can go? Or does Shimano have one of the same quality, in a smaller model? Is there a need to go smaller?
*Crank*
I believe I have a Shimano 542-S. Do I add bashguard, and jump stop? Or change to a single gear type crank and add a chainguide? Is it worth it to go with those chain retention setups?

I ride XC and there are only a few drops. My chain never comes off. Im leaning toward adding a bashguard and a jumpstop and calling it a day.


----------



## Tubedriver (Sep 19, 2008)

Bash guard and jumpstop should do it.:thumbsup:



dnoyeb said:


> I'm still trying to make the jump. A few questions.
> I have a Fuel Ex7 2008 model.
> 
> *Derailleur*
> ...


----------



## tturbotom (May 10, 2006)

dnoyeb said:


> I'm still trying to make the jump. A few questions.
> I have a Fuel Ex7 2008 model.
> 
> *Derailleur*
> The rear derailler is a Shimano Deore XT "shadow". From the lookup it appears to be the M772-GS. This means its the medium cage. Is this the smallest I can go? Or does Shimano have one of the same quality, in a smaller model? Is there a need to go smaller?


I was running a long cage SRAM with no problems at all. A little bit of chain slap from time to time, but never a dropped chain once I had everything tuned right. At that point I was running a 32 up front and an11-32 in the rear. I recently switched to a SRAM med cage, still running a 32 up front, but I switched to an 11-34 in the rear. I suspect I will need to drop a few links from the chain to make it perfect, but so far it runs nice.


dnoyeb said:


> *Crank*
> I believe I have a Shimano 542-S. Do I add bashguard, and jump stop? Or change to a single gear type crank and add a chainguide? Is it worth it to go with those chain retention setups?
> 
> I ride XC and there are only a few drops. My chain never comes off. Im leaning toward adding a bashguard and a jumpstop and calling it a day.


I have a a standard crank with a bash ring on the outside and a home made inner chain guide (that works awesome I might add) that mounts to the inner ring mounts.


----------



## dnoyeb (Sep 23, 2007)

Well I tried to find the Rohloff thing, but they are out everywhere. The bash guard is about $55. It looks nice though. I'm flirting with a full chainguide but I never drop my chain and money is tight. Just need more self-discipline...

I tried to find a straitline inner plate or blackspire inner plate, but those are equally as hard to find. Can't find inner plates, so I'll have to do the N-gear jumpstop. Or the chainguide if the MRP guys mail me back to say what will match the '08 Fuel EX7.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

my fourth 1x9. wanted to do a fully rigid budget build, something i could use on the fireroads/smooth singletrack near my office during lunch. picked up a NiTi Rockhopper frameset in great shape that came with some parts, and slapped on a few i had laying around. definitely have a soft spot for those older chromoly frames =)

-original frame, fork along with stem, bars, crank, v-brakes/levers, stx-rc rear der, seatpost $50
-bontrager race lite wheelset + tires $60
-canecreek headset $10
-misc parts (cables, grips, etc) $20

one crank arm was stripped out, and someone had tried to epoxy the pedal in (lol). luckily i found an lx crank and bb in my parts bin, from around the same period, along with a decent seat and pedals.

the chainguard is an aluminum 44t chainring, or at least it was until i took the dremel to it's teeth. inner guide is an n-gear.

total cost: about $150

.


----------



## pipes10 (Mar 11, 2007)

demo
- gamut chainguide and bashguard
- 36t blackspire chainring (not pictured)
- pg970 11-21t cassette
- x9 shifter
- x9 short mech
- pg991 chain
- holz oct cranks (not pictured)

double
- transition chainguide
- gamut bashguard
- 34t blackspire chainring (may swap to a 32t)
- pg990 11-32t cassette (may swap to a 11-26t)
- x9 shifter
- x9 mech
- pg991 chain
- holz oct cranks


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

These last 2 posts show the versatility inherent in using a 1x9. Good job to both of you.


----------



## flafonta (Feb 6, 2008)

I need help.

I am ready to build my new Jet9 with a 1x9 setup.

I am still sitting on the fence for the crank. Weight is one of my main concern.

The options are:

- XTR 970 with light bashguard (e.g. BBG or Salsa) and N-Gear Jump Stop
- XTR 970 + Rolhoff Chainguide
- Truvativ Noir 1.1G + N-Gear Jump Stop (I am worried about the durability of the finish)
- Middleburn RS8 Uno + Rolhoff Chainguide

Which of these would be the lightest?

Which one would you get?

Also, I am worried that the XTR crank would look ugly on a 1x9 setup because the outside look is designed to have the large chainring attached to the spider.

Thanks.


----------



## ueckerj (Aug 17, 2008)

*My 1X9 Haro*

Here is my Haro Werx XLS that I just converted to a 1x9. The setup consists of a XTR M960 crankset with a Blackspire Mono Veloce 32 tooth chainring. I cheaped out and simply filed off the teeth of the big chainring to create a bashguard. Looks pretty good, and was super easy. The other side has a jumpstop to keep the chain from dropping.

I have a XT 11-34 cassette and an ancient XTR M950 derailleur on the shifting end.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

flafonta said:


> I need help.
> 
> I am ready to build my new Jet9 with a 1x9 setup.
> 
> ...


lightest possible setup would probably be a Rolhoff with no bash/inner guards, paired with a single speed type crank that can cleanly mount just a middle ring. you can probably find crank weights on the weight weenie forum here or on a site like http://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings.php

also keep in mind that there is a little more to it than just comparing the total weight of the parts, also consider the difference between static and rotational weight. with both an outer and inner ring rotating with the crank that's extra mass you're having to lug around with every turn of the crank. it may or may not be noticeable but it's something to consider.


----------



## longhaultrucker (Jan 24, 2007)

*1x8 count?*

if so,i'll play.changed the 34t front to a more hill friendly 32t...otherwise,just as Ma Redline built it:thumbsup:

awesome thread,BTW!!!


----------



## moto367 (Nov 20, 2006)

*my set-up*

I've converted to 1x9 recently. The problem I'm having is the chain not "dropping" off but rather coming off from the bottom side of the chainring. I ride alot of tree roots and choppy terrain. The pic shows the only set-up so far that I've found to work for me. I do notice a lot of drag or resistance when in the large cog and it is a bit noisy also. I made the boomerang and bashguard and intend to lighten things up if I can't come up with a better solution. I'm running a 36 front chainring and a 12-34 XT cassette with XT shadow.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

The Blackguard has been perfect. Never dropped a chain off the top or bottom. It's very quiet except on the occasion that the chain bumps the guard in super bumpy terrain. There's no resistance caused by guide pulley's. I love it so much, I moved it over from the red Komodo to the silver one.


----------



## flafonta (Feb 6, 2008)

moto367 said:


> I've converted to 1x9 recently. The problem I'm having is the chain not "dropping" off but rather coming off from the bottom side of the chainring.


I am confused...

I can understand the chain dropping or comming off the inside or outside.

But the bottom???? Unless you pedal backward, I don't understand the issue, just keep pedaling.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

moto367 said:


> I've converted to 1x9 recently. The problem I'm having is the chain not "dropping" off but rather coming off from the bottom side of the chainring. I ride alot of tree roots and choppy terrain. The pic shows the only set-up so far that I've found to work for me. I do notice a lot of drag or resistance when in the large cog and it is a bit noisy also. I made the boomerang and bashguard and intend to lighten things up if I can't come up with a better solution. I'm running a 36 front chainring and a 12-34 XT cassette with XT shadow.


to help eliminate excess play, i would tighten up the chain by shortening it as much as possible, and go to a medium or short cage derailleur if you have not already.

regarding chain length: this is just my preference, but for the 1x builds i have done, i usually setup the chain length so that while in the biggest cog, the derailleur arm is between the 4-5 o'clock position. that loads the spring nicely so that it can react faster and take up the slack more quickly. going much beyond 4 o'clock and the spring will get stressed too much and weaken, and too far in the other direction there is not enough preload.


----------



## Jerome (Dec 21, 2003)

salimoneus said:


> lightest possible setup would probably be a Rolhoff with no bash/inner guards, paired with a single speed type crank that can cleanly mount just a middle ring. you can probably find crank weights on the weight weenie forum here or on a site like http://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings.php
> 
> also keep in mind that there is a little more to it than just comparing the total weight of the parts, also consider the difference between static and rotational weight. with both an outer and inner ring rotating with the crank that's extra mass you're having to lug around with every turn of the crank. it may or may not be noticeable but it's something to consider.


I second. The Rohloff chainguide is very efficient, even when the trail gets bumpy. That's what I got on my winter hardtail and it's been very reliable. I don't use any other form or retention device and the chain never fell or skiped.

Jerome


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

flafonta said:


> I am confused...
> 
> I can understand the chain dropping or comming off the inside or outside.
> 
> But the bottom???? Unless you pedal backward, I don't understand the issue, just keep pedaling.


I've talked about this, many many pages ago.
I believe the biggest problem really is the chain getting moved towards the inside in rough terrain which becomes a completely dropped chain when we backpedal while maneuvering. Why does it like to fall to the inside? Well, most of us use a bashguard/chainring guard that prevents outward movement. Also, what cog are you in when you're hitting the rough stuff? Usually the biggest, which pulls the chain to the inside of the chainring.
Two solutions:
1- The inner guard, such as the Blackguard or the mythical Straitline guard which I still have yet to see in use. I really like both of these, but have yet to use one.
2- Modify your riding style by stopping the tendency to backpedal in rough sections and instead pedal forward until a comfortable position is reached. This is what I've done and my drops have reduced greatly without changing my setup.

You are probably saying "Well, my chain never falls off with my Rohloff/JumpStop/DawgTooth seat tube-mounted guard."
I contend that one of two things is actually happening. 1) You have the guard adjusted close enough to the chainring that even if it comes off the bottom of the ring, it gets lodged against the guard and held until you start pedaling forward again. This would probably work the best with the Rohloff, since it is much stiffer and stronger. 2) You have already modified you pedaling style as mentioned above, and just don't realize it.

So, what is the best setup for 1x9? How am I supposed to know? You have to experiment and let us know what works for you. How else do you think this thread has gotten to a ridiculous 600+ posts? 
Thanks for everybody's contributions.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

The most reliable 1x9 will be a full on guide, second to that...definitely the Blackguard. Both are obviously overkill for the one who uses the Rohloff and has no problem, but not for the others who need a bit more support.


----------



## ATXSS (Mar 15, 2004)

I've run 1x9 a couple times in the past 5 years. The first time I used the bash guard/jump stop but on my terrain it dropped about once per ride in a rock garden. 

Lately I setup this rohloff guide. Bought it about 4 years ago and finally got around to using it. Seems very solid allthough I have yet to really trail test it. I'm sure it has already been covered extensively in this thread but here are some pictures. 

Otherwise, based on my experiences with the jump stop (unsatisfactory) That backguard looks like a good solution as well. Probably do that next If I need to purchase anything to setup a second bike. In the meantime hopefully this rohloff will suffice.


----------



## y0bailey (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks to you lovely folks here I present the $4 (cost of lexan) inner ring guard. All it took was a dremel and bit of time and this is what I have.

The N-stop wouldn't work on my funky frame (IH MKIII), so this was my only choice. This is the rough prototype but so far it turned out so decently I may just stick with it. Now I am waiting on my new cranks and I will be set.




























Easiest near 1lb weight loss I coulda come up with.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

y0-
I use those same cranks. Got them super cheap as OEM take-offs from Jenson. That is a great place to lose some weight.
I also used a supercharger bashguard, even the same color. I thought the plastic would be fairly light, but was surprised to find it was over 200g heavier than my old Spot guard. It looks like you really abuse yours, but if you want something lighter, its the first I'd try.


----------



## y0bailey (Dec 19, 2006)

Indiefab said:


> y0-
> I use those same cranks. Got them super cheap as OEM take-offs from Jenson. That is a great place to lose some weight.
> I also used a supercharger bashguard, even the same color. I thought the plastic would be fairly light, but was surprised to find it was over 200g heavier than my old Spot guard. It looks like you really abuse yours, but if you want something lighter, its the first I'd try.


I've got some new cranks getting shipped here as we speak. These suckers are huge and heavy and it is time for them to go.

I thought about ditching the e13 bashguard, but like you said I abuse the hell out of mine. I don't really think any others can handle the beating I put it through. Any suggestions for a strong as hell one that is lighter?


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

y0bailey said:


> I've got some new cranks getting shipped here as we speak. These suckers are huge and heavy and it is time for them to go.
> 
> I thought about ditching the e13 bashguard, but like you said I abuse the hell out of mine. I don't really think any others can handle the beating I put it through. Any suggestions for a strong as hell one that is lighter?


if your bash guard is going to take a serious constant beating, i would probably not go with anything aluminum as it's relatively brittle and not really suited for that purpose. if you want something that is going to protect you and hold up for a while, there is going to be a weight penalty. if the e13 is working well for you i would probably just stick with that.

but if you're hammering your guards THAT much, i might be a little concerned about the beating the rest of your bike is taking each time your guard impacts something. it certainly can't be good for your bb/pivots/joints and even just the frame integrity in general. you might consider moving to a frame with a higher bb more suited to the type of riding/terrain in your area. just my $.02.


----------



## y0bailey (Dec 19, 2006)

salimoneus said:


> but if you're hammering your guards THAT much, i might be a little concerned about the beating the rest of your bike is taking each time your guard impacts something. it certainly can't be good for your bb/pivots/joints and even just the frame integrity in general. you might consider moving to a frame with a higher bb more suited to the type of riding/terrain in your area. just my $.02.


I am thinking you are right and I will just stick with the e13...it cannot be broken (obviously) and I don't mind the weight penalty for the piece of mind.

As for beating the **** out of....yes I did. This is my first real bike and the bashguard has been on it since day one. There was a lot of abuse when I was first learning to get up on tall obstacles and all of that good stuff. A lot of it was from relatively low impact run-ins with a concrete barrier...nothing that would be able to break a frame or mess up the BB (and this is one crappy BB). It all paid off however. :thumbsup:

https://i485.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=https://vid485.photobucket.com/albums/rr212/y0bailey/P8230062.flv


----------



## flafonta (Feb 6, 2008)

Here is my 1x9 setup. Currently trying without any chain retention device.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Let us know how it goes. I'd hate to see that crank or the frame marred up by a chaindrop. The Middleburn Uno is one of the best SS rings out there, but it may take a Rohloff.


----------



## flafonta (Feb 6, 2008)

Indiefab said:


> Let us know how it goes. I'd hate to see that crank or the frame marred up by a chaindrop. The Middleburn Uno is one of the best SS rings out there, but it may take a Rohloff.


No chain drop on first 2 rides (although slow rides). I am keeping my finger crossed...


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

Finally today just got my jumpstop and put it on, i'll get pics later.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

flafonta said:


> No chain drop on first 2 rides (although slow rides). I am keeping my finger crossed...


sweet ride! would definitely recommend a guide though, very good chance that it will drop sooner or later.


----------



## Glynis27 (Sep 28, 2007)

flafonta said:


> Here is my 1x9 setup. Currently trying without any chain retention device.


Holy moly that is a pretty bike! If the fork was matte black like my Pike, that bike would make me completely lose it. Nice job.

I hope you can get away with not using a bashguard or anything. Looks so good being able to see the lower suspension link through the ring.


----------



## flafonta (Feb 6, 2008)

Glynis27 said:


> Holy moly that is a pretty bike! If the fork was matte black like my Pike, that bike would make me completely lose it. Nice job.
> 
> I hope you can get away with not using a bashguard or anything. Looks so good being able to see the lower suspension link through the ring.


Yup, a black matte would look even better. But it was not an option. The other options were white (Fox, Manitou) or gray (Reba).


----------



## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

*Pics of my Dos Niner*

Pics of my Salsa Dos Niner.
Have it setup with x9 short cage der., x7 shifter, truvativ stylo cranks, ngear jump stop, sram 990 cassette with 991 cross step chain.

Yesterday was its first time in the dirt:


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

flafonta said:


> Here is my 1x9 setup. Currently trying without any chain retention device.


So what's up with Middleburn cranksets? Why are they so desireable?

As soon as I got a crankset with ext. BB, I swore that I'd never go back to ISIS or God forbid square taper.

I always kill those things. (200lbs/aggressive rider)

What gives?


----------



## scottg07 (Jun 21, 2006)

vagrant with domain 318, straighttrack wheels, sram x7, avid bb7s, mrp minime, holzfellers, stripbar


----------



## flafonta (Feb 6, 2008)

chelboed said:


> So what's up with Middleburn cranksets? Why are they so desireable?
> 
> As soon as I got a crankset with ext. BB, I swore that I'd never go back to ISIS or God forbid square taper.
> 
> ...


I love the look, the simplicity and the great selection of gears (Uno, Duo, regular spider). Price was good, weight was good.

What else to ask for?

Regarding the BB type (ISIS, SquareTaper, External), I don't know much about it and the differences between each of them. So I can't comment.


----------



## D1PHAM (Sep 15, 2008)

ZenkiS14 said:


> Finally today just got my jumpstop and put it on, i'll get pics later.


How long did shipping take?


----------



## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

I picked up my Stylo cranks with bashguard at Cambria for $99. I like the look of the ENO but a little too spendy for me


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

D1PHAM said:


> How long did shipping take?


4 or 5 business days max.

Damn, i still gotta get some pics up!

I havent even had a chance to ride it with the jumpstop yet...been too damned cold.


----------



## flafonta (Feb 6, 2008)

flafonta said:


> Here is my 1x9 setup. Currently trying without any chain retention device.


Not a single chain drop again today. It was a 6 hour endurance race with many fast staircase rocky descents. If it has not drop today, I think I am good for most situations. I am very happy that I don't need any chain retention devices.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

flafonta said:


> Not a single chain drop again today. It was a 6 hour endurance with many fast staircase rocky descents. If it has not drop today, I think I am good for most situations. I am very happy that I don't need any chain retention devices.


Don't worry, give it some time and it will drop without any sort of guides. It's just a matter of time before things slap around at just the right angle and then blam. If it doesn't then you're not riding hard enough 

I actually just got my first drop a few days ago, while using both an outer ring and n-gear. It was an inside drop, and I think it was either because I did not have the n-gear pushed out far enough, or it was not tight enough and slid inward due to a chain jam. It was on the fully rigid bike though, going over some very rough stuff (off trail) so I could say that it wasn't under normal riding conditions. I'm hoping that an adjustment does the trick.


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

I think just having an SS ring prevents most potential chain drops.
I was running the bashwich with ramped middle ring and had chain drops a few times the first month. 
Then I switched to SS ring and it has not jumped since.


----------



## Boris4ka (Jun 26, 2008)

Iron Horse Maverick 4.5
Truvativ Boxguide Team '07
Specialized Chunder 2.3"
Downhill tubes
Sigma BC 506 computer
Truvativ Hussefelt short stem
Kona platform pedals

32T up front.


----------



## YungLefty (Aug 22, 2007)

Where can I get N gear thing?
please help!


----------



## vitale232 (Jun 13, 2007)

Woops.. double post


----------



## vitale232 (Jun 13, 2007)

YungLefty said:


> Where can I get N gear thing?
> please help!


http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CH409Z14-N+Gear+Jump+Start+Chain+Deflector.aspx


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

I bought mine through N-Gear itself. The guy who runs it all is a true stand up guy, free shipping in the US, and great business! I highly reccomend that!!!

http://www.gvtc.com/~ngear/index.html
(click on 'specs and order info')


----------



## noodletips (Dec 8, 2008)

*Chainline junkie*



Indiefab said:


> It's the wave of the future. Simple, reliable, lighter.


Maybe so, maybe not. With only 9 gears (e.g. 11-32), the spacing is quite wide between selections. I use a "road" cassette (14-25) to avoid such wide jumps between gears. I have to use more than one chainring to have this choice. To each his own?

jeff


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

noodletips said:


> Maybe so, maybe not. With only 9 gears (e.g. 11-32), the spacing is quite wide between selections. I use a "road" cassette (14-25) to avoid such wide jumps between gears. I have to use more than one chainring to have this choice. To each his own?
> 
> jeff


I find on my local trails that road gearing is too close together. The more drastic change in terrain necessitates wider range. Tamer XC'ish courses are a different story. Something where you try to keep the same cadence throughout your while ride...I could see it.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

noodletips said:


> Maybe so, maybe not. With only 9 gears (e.g. 11-32), the spacing is quite wide between selections. I use a "road" cassette (14-25) to avoid such wide jumps between gears. I have to use more than one chainring to have this choice. To each his own?
> 
> jeff


I actually believe the opposite. I think a 1x5 with the same spread as a 9 speed would be optimal for a mountain bike. I usually find myself shifting a couple gears at a time anyway, they just feel too closely spaced together. Every other offroad vehicle on the planet does just fine with 5 or 6 gears, why not mountain bikes too.

This would simplify things even more and riders would start taking advantage of the full range of each gear, making shifting more instinctive. It probably wouldn't be for everyone, and definitely not for road bikes because those are totally different, but if someone came out with a 1x5 11-32 I would not hesitate to plunk my cash down for that setup and let the torture begin!


----------



## hoovermd (Dec 22, 2007)

Recently converted from a SS.
Got 9, use 3


----------



## scottg07 (Jun 21, 2006)

whoa  :skep:


----------



## mtbnachos (Feb 1, 2007)

You can stack say 5 Surly cogs into a custom cassette and make it work I bet. Has anyone in this thread tried that? I've heard of 1x3 and 1x4's using Surly.


----------



## Tubedriver (Sep 19, 2008)

Jeff Jones makes a 6 spd XT 12-34 cassette that fits on a King SS hub allowing for a dishless rear wheel. That is the way to go IMHO.


----------



## dinoadventures (May 2, 2008)

This is the drivetrain off my new squishy-bike build... it's dirty but I've been putting miles on it.

XTR M960 crankset, cut down and polished (i think i have arthritis now)
Blackspire 34T singlespeed chainring (102 BCD, woo hoo:madman: )
Rohloff chainguide
SRAM 991 chain
SRAM 990 cassette
SRAM X0 short cage rear derailleur
SRAM X0 triggers

The Rohloff guide is necessary due to chain growth when pedaling over large bumps.


----------



## mtbnachos (Feb 1, 2007)

*1xKick yo' ace!*

Gearing at it's awesomest!


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

Nachos, thats a very similar setup to mine! I promise i'll get pics up tomorrow or Sunday. haha


----------



## Mr. DiCenso (Jul 15, 2008)

bump. This is a sweet thread.


----------



## pipes10 (Mar 11, 2007)

demo - gamut guide and bash, blackspire 36t chainring, dura ace 11-21t cassette, '09 saint cranks, dura ace chain

double - transition guide, gamut bash, blackspire 34t chainring, dura ace 11-23t cassette, '09 saint cranks, dura ace chain


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

too damned cold to ride lately, and finally got bored enough to take pictures.

WTB Silverado Saddle
Shimano XTR pedals
Shimano LX Hubs
Shimano LX crankset
Shimano SLX Med Cage Rear Derailleur
Shimano STX V-Brakes (factory spec)
Shimano 08 LX shifters
SRAM PG970 11-34 cassette
SRAM PC971 Chain
Salsa Juego de Fuego grips (yellow)
SpotBrand Bashguard 
N-Gear JumpStop
Avid FR5 Brake Levers


----------



## Gilmoure (Aug 14, 2008)

I just converted my SE Stout 29 from SS to 1x9. I live in the Sandia Mountains and it's just too hard SS for this old lazy computer tech.

Used SRAM PG-970 11-34, X-7 medium cage rear derailleur, and x-7 shifter with the 32T front gear it came with. Thanks to Zinn book, was able to get it dialed in first time.










So far, seems perfect set up for the hilly terrain around here.


----------



## Tubedriver (Sep 19, 2008)

Wifey's bike converted to 1x9. 










XTR shifter/brake levers, pedals and cassette
XT derailler, chain and crank
Hugi hubs/revolution spokes/Mavic 230
Atom Bomb z.2 coil fork
Salsa stem
WTB saddle
no name riser bar
Avid Tri-Align cants (probably will switch to Avid Maglite V brakes since the Tri's don't work well with the XTR levers)


----------



## middy (Jun 11, 2008)

*What about 1x8?*

My 1x8 rigid 69er.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

What bars?


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

New one in the works. 

28T ring on the granny spot, 104mm BCD steel, unramped Truvativ ring. 12-34 cassette. Short cage SRAM x.9 with x.9 twist shifters, full housing. Jump Stop inside, bash outer. 

My current bash is too thick to run in the middle ring position without interfering with the 28T ring (too wide) but I've got one ordered up that ought to let me run it just fine. The chain will then be sort of sandwiched between the bashring and the Jump Stop. 

I think for where and how I ride, that'll be a great spread for me. With my prior 22/32 front ring setup, the lower half of my cogs rarely got uses - I'm far more a spinner than a masher. I'll try this for a while and see how things work out. Managed to space things to get the chainline more or less in the middle of my cog stack. 

Pics once I get it all dialed in and the new bashring on. Won't get to get much of a chance to ride on it until later this week though.


----------



## adam728 (Jan 25, 2006)

First up, my 1x8. I road this one for a while, recently made some gearing/tire changes to keep up with the old lady on her new road bike. Just changed from a 34T Blackspire to a 38T Race Face ring that was on sale for under $10 if I remember correctly (the 34T went on my other bike). The bike is a 2001 Trek 4900 with only a few minor changes, the newest of which are the bigger ring and 1.5" road tires. I run a Jumpstop, and added a bolt/spacer/washer setup to keep the chain on when off road. Around town I never needed it, but hit some rocks and I'd drop a chain to the outside all the freakin time. 

































The other bike is my new K2 Zed 4.0. I put the 34T Blackspire ring on, an ubber cheap Nashbar bashring, and a jumpstop. 

















Test rides this weekend. The Trek I've run 1x8 for over a year now, it's just the bigger gear and smaller tires that are new to me.

PS - I hate Photobucket! I cropped, rotated, and resized the pics. In my account they are nice and neat, but what I see posted here is the untouched versions. I don't know how they'll show for everyone else. Good luck!


----------



## dinoadventures (May 2, 2008)

Very clever what you did with that jumpstop.


----------



## middy (Jun 11, 2008)

chelboed said:


> What bars?


Who me? Misfit FuBars. Love love love 'em.


----------



## andymart (Oct 19, 2008)

*My 1x9(8!)*

Got an SLX rear mech and shifter struggling to get on the big cog(bad chainline) any ideas on how to move the front ring inboard to where the little ring would be? Would solve my problem i'm sure.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

andymart said:


> Got an SLX rear mech and shifter struggling to get on the big cog(bad chainline) any ideas on how to move the front ring inboard to where the little ring would be? Would solve my problem i'm sure.


Best solution would be to switch to a bottom bracket with a shorter spindle length. I would add spacers/washers until you are happy with the chainline, and then measure the difference for the length of the new bottom bracket. You could just run with spacers but not as clean or reliable as you now have a gap between the bashguard.

I actually made a another post specifically about chainline, and that people should consider fine tuning things even more with a specific spindle length, but it wasn't very well received. For instance if you find that you run mostly in the bigger cogs then shift things even farther inward. It really does make a difference IMO.


----------



## andymart (Oct 19, 2008)

Thanks for the advice. Would swapping bottom bracket reduce the clearance between crank arm and chainstay as i've got about 10mm max at the moment. I'm loving the 1x9 setup keeps things simple and reliable in our winter mud.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

andymart said:


> Thanks for the advice. Would swapping bottom bracket reduce the clearance between crank arm and chainstay as i've got about 10mm max at the moment. I'm loving the 1x9 setup keeps things simple and reliable in our winter mud.


Yea it doesn't sound like you've got a ton of room to work with on that particular combo. Besides a crank with a bigger offset, shorter crank arms might help as well.


----------



## e.schueschewsashoeissue (Dec 16, 2008)

*question for you guys..*

does a bash guard + jumpstop sufficiently protect against your chain hopping off ? i see the rohloff and modified jumpstops but am curious if just a bashguard + jumpstop will do the trick


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

e.schueschewsashoeissue said:


> does a bash guard + jumpstop sufficiently protect against your chain hopping off ? i see the rohloff and modified jumpstops but am curious if just a bashguard + jumpstop will do the trick


I'm running just a jumpstop on mine. I drop about once per year. I am running a surly singlespeed chainring up front (slightly taller teeth, no ramps or pins) medium cage derailleur with a slightly tight chain. No guard at all.

Pretty much the same on my wife's 1x9 but she's got a salsa ring dinger too. Incidentally, she drops chain more often than I do! She's a hucker though, I'm a bit smoother.


----------



## labrom (Feb 14, 2009)

*1x9 setup for XC use*

Hi,
I converted my XC bike to a 1x9 setup.

I removed the chainrings from my XTR crankset and installed a Blackspire Mono Veloce 32 teeth chainring and BBG chainguide instead.

I really love this setup, you end up with a lighter, simpler bike. I didn't ride it in racing conditions yet, but I didn't notice any performances loss when riding with my friends 

I wrote all details with pictures in a blog post here: http://crosscountrybike.blogspot.com/2009/01/1x9-setup-is-fun.html

-Romain


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Great write up. Thanks for mentioning this thread too.
The GuideRing is definitely my favorite, since the Boone ring isn't made in 104BC for now.
I had no idea those BBG guards were so light. Makes my 58g Spot Brand guard look porky, but mine is also a little thicker. Looks like its time to break out the drill and countersink bits.


----------



## Ray Lee (Aug 17, 2007)

The Jump Stop works great on my hardtails but not on my FS bike (or my buddies).

On the FS (140mm rear travel) when the rear wheel compresses the chain swings up higher than the Jump Stop so it bounces off in the ruff stuff and on off camber landings.

I have been using the MRP Mini Me chain guide for over a year and have not dropped the chain once, also nice how silent it runs now (no chain slapping metal sounds ever)








After I fixed my bike up my order from Black Spire came in so I might try the Black Spire inner ring on my girl friends bike or just sell it off and get a chain guide for that bike as well.



e.schueschewsashoeissue said:


> does a bash guard + jumpstop sufficiently protect against your chain hopping off ? i see the rohloff and modified jumpstops but am curious if just a bashguard + jumpstop will do the trick


----------



## tturbotom (May 10, 2006)

I have been ridding with an outer bash ring and inner guide ring for quite some time now. Based on my experience and from other people write, this is the best option for someone with a full suspension XC rig. I can't remeber the last time I dropped the chain.


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

28T unramped Truvativ ring in the granny spot. LX cranks, Enduro ceramic BB. 








Thin, plain bashring in the middle ring spot, FSA bash on the outside. 








N-Gear Jump Stop. Short cage X.9 rear mech, X.9 twist shifter, full housing run, short chain. 








Have a Blackspire Granny God bashring on order - mounts in the middle ring position, but gives enough clearance to run 1x9 with your granny ring - it's offset to give a bit more coverage/thickness outside. What's on there now works fine, but the single bash setup will look and be a bit cleaner setup.

I lose only a bit of my top and low end. This is no fast race bike, so losing a bit of my top end is not a big deal. The 28T lets me retain more low end than a 32T ring would. Not a lot of long grind climbs, but it's nice for the short and steep and trialsy type stuff around me.


----------



## Glynis27 (Sep 28, 2007)

scrublover said:


> I lose only a bit of my top and low end. This is no fast race bike, so losing a bit of my top end is not a big deal. The 28T lets me retain more low end than a 32T ring would. Not a lot of long grind climbs, but it's nice for the short and steep and trialsy type stuff around me.


I was wanting to use a 30T ring on my 1x9 instead of the 32T, but it seems that they can't make a 30T with a 104 BCD. Hadn't thought about using the inner ring spot. I would rather use the middle ring though so I won't need to do so much adjusting. 30T 104 BCD is not possible, correct?


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Glynis27 said:


> I was wanting to use a 30T ring on my 1x9 instead of the 32T, but it seems that they can't make a 30T with a 104 BCD. Hadn't thought about using the inner ring spot. I would rather use the middle ring though so I won't need to do so much adjusting. 30T 104 BCD is not possible, correct?


not without modification or spendy rings of the ones out so far.

my cassette is actually only 7 speeds. 9 speed cogset, pared down to 13-34 setup. chainline wise, the ring up front lines up pretty much right in the middle of the casstte the way i have it spaced on the hub.

no issues with it so far. didn't even space my bb over any differently.


----------



## Glynis27 (Sep 28, 2007)

> not without modification or spendy rings of the ones out so far.


Too bad. That would be ideal for me. I think I saw a 31T once though. Maybe I will try and find that.



> my cassette is actually only 7 speeds. 9 speed cogset, pared down to 13-34 setup. chainline wise, the ring up front lines up pretty much right in the middle of the casstte the way i have it spaced on the hub.


Yea, I noticed your cassette looked strange, so I counted them. Not sure how you got rid of the cogs though.

My problem with using the inner ring would be that I am running a Blackguard in that spot, so I would need to use a different method for chain retention. We shall see.


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Glynis27 said:


> Too bad. That would be ideal for me. I think I saw a 31T once though. Maybe I will try and find that.
> 
> Yea, I noticed your cassette looked strange, so I counted them. Not sure how you got rid of the cogs though.
> 
> My problem with using the inner ring would be that I am running a Blackguard in that spot, so I would need to use a different method for chain retention. We shall see.


the upper six cogs are on a carrier, the lower ones are not. 15-34, with a 12 on the bottom.

i think. can't recall it i have a 12 or 13 down there.

again, it's not a super fast race machine, more of a technical trail and rock crawling play bike, so i've got the drivetrain set for what works for me. i'm also way more of a spinner than a masher, so the lower range the 28t gives me over using a single 32t works well. hell, even my SS bike is using a 32x21 setup.


----------



## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

Glynis27 said:


> Too bad. That would be ideal for me. I think I saw a 31T once though. Maybe I will try and find that.


Take a look at this thread...

It's over in the 29er forum, but we all know there's no such thing as 29er chain rings 

Anyway, here's my newest 1x9:


----------



## mtok77 (Nov 5, 2005)

Glynis27 said:


> Too bad. That would be ideal for me. I think I saw a 31T once though. Maybe I will try and find that.


Check out this thread:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=4286712&page=8

Mattias can make custom sprockets. There are pictures of a 104bcd 31t sprocket.

I ordered him 31t sprocket and a ti-bashring for my 1*9 project. They should arrive within 2 weeks and my frame should arrive in three weeks. I'll post pictures once I get it done.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

i'm pretty sure i remember seeing a 30t 104bcd, but only in titanium and very pricey at like $100. will check if i still have the links...


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

salimoneus said:


> i'm pretty sure i remember seeing a 30t 104bcd, but only in titanium and very pricey at like $100. will check if i still have the links...


Yep, action-tec make on afaik. I can't recall the company, but a Euro company makes an alloy one as well. It's also stupid expensive for an alloy ring that is going to wear much faster. I'd love to see a nice stainless model.

Side note: another option to extend the low is the upcoming Shimano cassette that will have a 36T largest cog. Methinks you could still pair that well with a 32T up front and a short cage rear mech - particularly on a hardtail which isn't going to experience any suspension induced chain growth.


----------



## Glynis27 (Sep 28, 2007)

scrublover said:


> Side note: another option to extend the low is the upcoming Shimano cassette that will have a 36T largest cog. Methinks you could still pair that well with a 32T up front and a short cage rear mech.


Yea, I saw that in the other post I was linked to. Might be a good option. Hopefully it is not too heavy. Too bad I just purchased a new 990 cassette.


----------



## twowheelfunman (Aug 29, 2008)

wow, I have been lusting over converting my FS bike to 2X9 for like a year but didn't have the $ to do it like I wanted. Then I find this thread and thought not only do I rarely use granny but I rarely use the big ring too! So with all of the knowledge (I read EVERY post yesterday) and about $100 I ordered a sandwich setup. Blackspire inner, 30t steel middle SS chainring and a Spot outer guide. I can't wait to remove my FD & shifter! I'll add pics n/week hopefully.

I work for a youth mountain biking program & some of our tiny kids bikes are O.E.M. 1X6 with the sandwich setup! (Trek & Gary Fisher)


----------



## noshortcuts (Nov 29, 2005)

*Chameleon - 24 lbs. as pictured*


----------



## flafonta (Feb 6, 2008)

noshortcuts said:


> http://forums.mtbr.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=436857


I recognize my setup: Middleburn Uno, XO RD, very thigh chain, very clean looking.

Are you running any chain retention device up front?

Any chain drops

I have yet to drop my chain on my setup.


----------



## noshortcuts (Nov 29, 2005)

flafonta said:


> I recognize my setup: Middleburn Uno, XO RD, very thigh chain, very clean looking.
> 
> Are you running any chain retention device up front?
> 
> ...


No retention on the front and no dropped chains, but this was a recent rain week build and it hasn't seen enough riding to know for sure. I think it is both an advantage that it has no rear suspension to cause chain growth and a disadvantage as it bounces around more without a rear suspension, but it sure is working so far.

QUICK UPDATE: Riding jumps and mud an no dropped chain. I don't know if it has to do with this combo exactly or not, but a tight chain, X.0 short cage, and Middleburn Uno crank sure seam to do the trick with no bashgaurd or chain guide.


----------



## stephen11364 (Jan 31, 2004)

Intense SS


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

u suk


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

noshortcuts, flafonta
That's frighteningly similar to my Cove Handjob setup, too! *Silver* RS7, Uno, MX30s... A short cage X0 has been there, too, in a previous incarnation - now there's a new short cage Saint.

I do run a Rohloff Chain Guide with that.


----------



## noshortcuts (Nov 29, 2005)

J. Random Psycho said:


> noshortcuts, flafonta
> That's frighteningly similar to my Cove Handjob setup, too! *Silver* RS7, Uno, MX30s... A short cage X0 has been there, too, in a previous incarnation - now there's a new short cage Saint.
> 
> I do run a Rohloff Chain Guide with that.


Take off the Chain Guide and join us in the full experience (or should I say experiment)  .

And post a PIC !


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Who will be the first to try one of these?

http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech/2009/shows/nahmbs09/?id=/photos/2009/tech/shows/nahmbs09/nahmbs096/Paul_chain_guide


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Indiefab said:


> Who will be the first to try one of these?
> 
> https://www.cyclingnews.com/tech/2009/shows/nahmbs09/?id=/photos/2009/tech/shows/nahmbs09/nahmbs096/Paul_chain_guide


I suppose if starting from scratch/didn't want to use a bashring it'd be good.










Just put on the Blackspire Granny God (UPS brought it today) and I like it. 
It and the Jump Stop make for a cleaner looking setup with what I'm running. Leaves enough room so my chain isn't rubbing and making noise, but not so much that the chain can derail and get wedged.










For use with a granny - mounts on the middle ring spot. I've been playing with a 28T granny ring as the 1 in my 1x7 setup, and it's great for the stuff I'm riding. 13-34T spread over 7 cogs. I lose a touch of high and low, but not much. I don't miss the extra teeth up front - I'm way more a spinner than a masher, so the lower geared setup works great for me. So far.










Truvativ unramped steel 28T 64mm BCD ring is working great so far. I think it's meant for one of their touring or road triple crank setups. Slightly more clearance with the whole thing - nice with all the log and rock crawling on some of my favorite trails.

I like the idea of the new Shimano cassette with a 36T big cog - assuming it's on a decent carrier setup and my short cage rear mech would play nicely with the thing. I'd pair that back up with a standard 32T ring up front. Action Tec's 36T ti cog has me thinking, but I don't think the alu freehub body on my hub would be happy with that at all.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

There you go, one Handjob, 1x8, winter setup... I'm no good at taking photos, however. )

Also, never mind the rear wheel - I'm preparing the new one already (it can be partially seen in the photo on the right - look for silver spokes). It's a Hope Pro 2 Trials, Mavic EN521, DT Swiss Competitions (36 spokes), brass nipples.

A trimmed 8-speed LX cassette (11-14-16-18-21-24) shall come with it. I am highly unsure whether a typical steel lockring would hold this cassette, given lesser thread engagement resulting from 6 cogs with 8 speed spacing. I have read it somewhere that a Chris King lockring (it's got longer threaded part) solves this well. I'm looking for one right now - there is still hope...

A 68x118 mm FSA Platinum Pro ISIS BB shall move the chainline outboard somewhat, although it's not going to be completely even (this requires 123 mm spindle, I haven't been able to come by such a BB).

The rig is still under construction.. It's my training and just riding, and winter and foul weather commuting bike. It is also my response to the financial crisis. )

Looks like this summer season I'm going to reserve the Fluid (which also set up 1x9) for the long singletrack rides, and the hardtail will handle everything else.


----------



## medik13 (Apr 3, 2005)

This thread is killing me!!! 

I just built up a bike and got back into riding. I installed SLX 3X9 cranks, SGS XT shadow RD, F SRAM rocket shifter and after the third ride, I asked myself " why the hell are there 3 chainrings if I just stay in the middle all the time." Then I stumble on this thread. 

I love the simplicity. Help me get rid of these chainrings. I know I need a shorter cage derailleur (XT GS or SLX short???), bash (Blackspire) and a jumpstop. Will the chainline be a problem? Bike is a 04 KONA KING KIKAPU and riding is strictly XC...Thanks


----------



## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

medik13 said:


> This thread is killing me!!!
> 
> I just built up a bike and got back into riding. I installed SLX 3X9 cranks, SGS XT shadow RD, F SRAM rocket shifter and after the third ride, I asked myself " why the hell are there 3 chainrings if I just stay in the middle all the time." Then I stumble on this thread.
> 
> I love the simplicity. Help me get rid of these chainrings. I know I need a shorter cage derailleur (GS???), bash (recommendations???) and a jumpstop. Will the chainline be a problem? Bike is a 04 KONA KING KIKAPU and riding is strictly XC...Thanks


Do you want to do it on the cheap? Just get rid of the big n little chainrings and put a bash where the big ring was. now, that will leave you with your ramped (probably 32T) chainring in the middle position - which should give you a good chainline given that your cranks/bb are set up properly. add a jumpstop and you should be fine.

if you want to spend some dough, in addition to the bash, get a short cage derailluer and a single speed (unramped) chainring - you can also get something other than the 'standard' 32T chainring too.

i have 2 bikes setup 1x9 - a 26er and a 29er. In a season and a half running 1x9 on the 26er I dropped the chain maybe 2 or 3 times - running only a short cage derailluer, single speed chainring (36T) and a bashguard - no jumpstop or any other chain retention device. And even though I've only been on a handfull of rides on the 29er - I've yet to drop the chain. It's also set up with a single speed crankset (32T) w/ bash and a short cage derailluer.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

The popularity of 1x9 is spreading to some seriously talented racers. 
Check out the new prototype rides of "Rad" Ross Schnell (Trek Remedy) and Adam Craig (Giant Anthem X Advanced SL). 
It looks like they're both using the same white MRP chainguide. The Giant article says its a 75g prototype likely to be released this year.
Sweet.

Edit: These articles are on Velonews.com


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Perhaps on that Anthem they just have substituted a temporary 1x9 drivetrain while waiting for SRAM XX arrival?


----------



## twowheelfunman (Aug 29, 2008)

Here's what I just finished. Loving it!


----------



## wydizzle (Oct 3, 2008)

Alright guys so here it is. I converted my bike to a 1x9 yesterday. I have been looking at this thread for a long time and have somewhat narrowed it down to what I want to get as far as chain retention/protection but I still need input. Below is a list of parts I am deciding between/considering. But first here is where I stand. 

I like the look of the clean frame without the front derailleur/jumpstop etc.. I also like the simple looks of the "chain sandwich" buy using the blackguard and some form of bashguard. However, I am also a big fan of LIGHTWEIGHT and understand the additional rotational mass with this setup.

Inside:
N Gear Jumpstop
Blackspire Blackguard

Outside:
Blackspire LiteGod
MRP Party Crasher/Party Crasher Lite
Any bashguards are being considered so let me know if there is another one you think I should look at.

Anybody with any experience with these please give me some insight. It may be that the blackguard weight isn't even noticeable. Please provide input! Btw, my chainring is 32t.
Thanks!!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

twowheelfunman, is there any bashring rub in the 2 highest gears?

wydizzle, a Rohloff Chain Guide CC weighs just 70 g. You could dremel it down it to suit that ring closer, too.


----------



## twowheelfunman (Aug 29, 2008)

J. Random Psycho said:


> twowheelfunman, is there any bashring rub in the 2 highest gears?
> 
> No rub at all. I've got about 80 miles on it including some rough going & the guard still has all of it's paint by the chain.


----------



## wydizzle (Oct 3, 2008)

> wydizzle, a Rohloff Chain Guide CC weighs just 70 g. You could dremel it down it to suit that ring closer, too.


 Yeah I have seen those, but am pretty sure I am going to get some sort of bash ring for the outside. So mainly looking for either the N gear or blackguard. And definitely don't want to spend the $60 for that.


----------



## wydizzle (Oct 3, 2008)

Anybody with any experience on the Blackspire LiteGod?


----------



## wydizzle (Oct 3, 2008)

Ok, I'm thinking about going with the BBG bash guard. I have a question about sizing though. My sprocket is a 32t. Would I want to order a 32 or 34 bash guard?


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

wydizzle said:


> Ok, I'm thinking about going with the BBG bash guard. I have a question about sizing though. My sprocket is a 32t. Would I want to order a 32 or 34 bash guard?


32, unless you plan on trying 34 ring later.
This is my setup with 32T SS ring and 32 bash and homemade jumpstop.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

wydizzle said:


> Ok, I'm thinking about going with the BBG bash guard. I have a question about sizing though. My sprocket is a 32t. Would I want to order a 32 or 34 bash guard?


I prefer to go with a ring that is at least a couple sizes larger just for added protection against outside chain jumps. If your outer ring is sized too close it doesn't really offer as much protection as the chain can more easily climb up and over the edge. So for a 32t chainring I would go with at least a size 36 ring. Might as well if you're going to the trouble of putting one on anyway I figure. If you won't be doing any big jumps or ride very rocky terrain then it's not as important obviously.


----------



## wydizzle (Oct 3, 2008)

I'm not doing big jumps but I do ride really rocky terrain. I'm not so much worried about the bash guard actually serving to run into boulders either. Just a way to keep the chain on. I have gotten mixed answers about this. You say go bigger than the chain ring eh?


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

A 32 bash/chainguard will keep on a 32T reliably for a hardtail like wydizzle's. 34 max. 36 is way overkill.
You might go with the 34 to give room to move up.

Don't forget to upgrade to a SS-specific chainring too. That ramped&pinned ring will give you nothing but trouble.


----------



## wydizzle (Oct 3, 2008)

Indiefab said:


> Don't forget to upgrade to a SS-specific chainring too. That ramped&pinned ring will give you nothing but trouble.


Can you explain this?


----------



## tturbotom (May 10, 2006)

wydizzle said:


> Can you explain this?


A single speed specific front ring is straight cut unlike the rings found on a traditional 3 ring set-up which is ramped to assist in smoother shifting.

The set up that decide to run will determine how necessary the SS-Specific ring will be. Someone that runs without any sort of chain retention system up front is more like to need a SS front ring. My sandwich style chain retention system has proven to be so bullet proof that I can run either type of front run.

I may be mistaken, but I think a SS front ring is more durable in the long run depending on the material. My advice is to stick with the ring you have up front. If you need to replace it, then switch to the SS front ring.


----------



## wydizzle (Oct 3, 2008)

Thanks man, that makes sense. What sandwich
Combo are you running? Still need help deciding on that route.


----------



## tturbotom (May 10, 2006)

wydizzle said:


> Thanks man, that makes sense. What sandwich
> Combo are you running? Still need help deciding on that route.


Here is my set-up which consists of a bash ring from Narbar and a homemade inner guide ring that I made from aluminum
http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=4049541&postcount=346

Here is another similar set-up hat that I found in this thread that bonedpwinkle is running 
http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=3537454&postcount=316


----------



## wydizzle (Oct 3, 2008)

Yeah bonepwinkle's is the setup I was leaning towards using. Probably with a BBG bashguard though. I'm guessing you recommend the sandwich versus the Jump stop?


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

Indiefab said:


> A 32 bash/chainguard will keep on a 32T reliably for a hardtail like wydizzle's. 34 max. 36 is way overkill.
> You might go with the 34 to give room to move up.
> 
> Don't forget to upgrade to a SS-specific chainring too. That ramped&pinned ring will give you nothing but trouble.


In my mind it's pretty obvious that a 32 does not offer the same protection that a 36 ring does against chain jumps the outside. If you can't see that then I don't know what else to say, because it's quite clear to me. If you're going to bother in the first place why not go for the extra protection, there really are no downsides to doing so except for the very slight weight increase.

Unless looks are more important to you than function...then I can see your point but that's another story entirely. I build bikes for "go" rather than for "sho"


----------



## tturbotom (May 10, 2006)

I can't comment on the JumpStop set-up since I have never used one. The success I have had with the sandwich style negated any need or desire to try anything else.


----------



## wydizzle (Oct 3, 2008)

Cool thanks for your input man. :thumbsup:


----------



## wydizzle (Oct 3, 2008)

salimoneus said:


> In my mind it's pretty obvious that a 32 does not offer the same protection that a 36 ring does against chain jumps the outside. If you can't see that then I don't know what else to say, because it's quite clear to me. If you're going to bother in the first place why not go for the extra protection, there really are no downsides to doing so except for the very slight weight increase.
> 
> Unless looks are more important to you than function...then I can see your point but that's another story entirely. I build bikes for "go" rather than for "sho"


I think some would include ground clearance as a part of "function".


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

wydizzle said:


> I think some would include ground clearance as a part of "function".


Exactly. I can run an extremely thin, light 32T because it almost never hits rocks or logs.

At 36T, I need something much more substantial and I have to anticipate hitting more things which slows me down.


----------



## wydizzle (Oct 3, 2008)

Quick question: What am I measuring to get 58 or 64 when ordering the Blackspire Blackguard?


----------



## wydizzle (Oct 3, 2008)

I would assume bolt hole to bolt hole in mm?


----------



## wydizzle (Oct 3, 2008)

Also, how big is the blackguard? I found on one website where it says 36t max. I'm not worried about it being too small for my 32t but it is going to look weird if its a 36 and my bashguard is a 32? Seems like it might look a little out of place. Can anyone give me some insight on this?

I'm sure this has been asked before too but are there any other brands out there with the same style product? Possibly one that would be a more direct fit.
Thanks


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

wydizzle said:


> I would assume bolt hole to bolt hole in mm?


if it's a BCD measurement, i believe you take the bolt to bolt figure in millimeters and multiply it by 1.7.

as far as looks, i'm fine with how my 36t guard looks with a 32t ring, but i'm not too picky about these things, they get dirty and banged up quick anyway.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

wydizzle said:


> Also, how big is the blackguard? I found on one website where it says 36t max. I'm not worried about it being too small for my 32t but it is going to look weird if its a 36 and my bashguard is a 32? Seems like it might look a little out of place. Can anyone give me some insight on this?
> 
> I'm sure this has been asked before too but are there any other brands out there with the same style product? Possibly one that would be a more direct fit.
> Thanks


oh i see what you mean, having an inner guard of 36 and an outer guard of 32. hmm, i don't know i guess i've never seen that setup before, it might look okay? i would recommend using a larger ring on the outside though, i think it would be a cleaner look.


----------



## wydizzle (Oct 3, 2008)

May just make my own.


----------



## loric (Oct 19, 2005)

Hi,

Some pics of my DIY carbon chainguard, specially made for this Stump HT used mainly for commuting.


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

Ioric looks nice. are you selling any of those chain guards??


----------



## wydizzle (Oct 3, 2008)

looks awesome. do you have anything on the inside?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

loric, that looks like a responsibly WW built one. I wonder however what does the frame weigh?


----------



## loric (Oct 19, 2005)

*@ biketuna* - No sorry, it's a "one shot" realization ! But it's quite easy to do by yourself : a 2mm carbon plate, a Dremel multitool, a portable jigsaw and a reference chainring for cuting and percing (FSA 44t in my case). Just one thing, be care of carbon dust ...

*@wydizzle* - No, nothing in the inside.

*@J. Random Psycho* - Yes, you're right : I hope that it is a responsibly WW built. The frame is about 1450gr and the whole built is at 8550gr.

PS : I'm a French boy so that's why :
+ my answers come at night for you ;
+ my english is quite poor !


----------



## rcnotes (Jan 19, 2008)

My Soma Juice with a 1x9. 38 tooth chainring in the middle position with SRAM 11/34 cassette out back.

I run my KM 1x9 with a 32 tooth chainring for trails

The bars been changed on the Juice to a Mary bar. Love it.


----------



## bbmtb (May 5, 2007)

*1x9 Superlight*

Made a few upgrades over the winter. One change being a 1x9 conversion. I went with the Truvativ Stylo 1.1 cranks, An XT cogset, XT chain, And a N-Gear Jumpstop, To keep things together. Other upgrades included a Rock Shox Revelation 426 air fork, Thomson stem, and seatpost,and Easton Monkeylite bars. Tires were worn so I put a fresh pair of Nevegals on too. Thinking of upgrading the wheelset next.


----------



## davee_p (May 6, 2008)

Awesome thread. I've read through the entire thing more than a few times and it's been super helpful. I've got an old hardtail I'm going to convert to a budget trail/townie 1x9 (it's currently a single speed, with a 44t front ring). It's got an old set of Specialized 5 bolt, 175mm cranks that I'm going to stick with, so here's what I think I'm looking at getting:

- Blackspire Mono Veloce, 34t, 5 bolt, 94bcd 
- Third Eye Chain Watcher
- 9sp SLX Cassette
- Bashguard 

I should be able to do the conversion for around $100. Anything I'm missing?


----------



## Ze_Zaskar (Jan 3, 2008)

Hi there
I'm trying to contact the guy(s) at NGear to get a different sized clamp for my JumpStop, with no answer. Any info on this?


----------



## CupOfJava (Dec 1, 2008)




----------



## arskas (Jan 29, 2008)




----------



## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

Here is mine. 09 specialized rockhopper, most everything on it was added by me. Cranks were handed down from an 04 rockhopper. So this one is a complete build up now. Im using a blackspire downhill type 32t chainring, medium cage shimano low normal xt rear derailleur, cut down and locked front derailleur as a guide, and avid fr5 levers to replace the shimano lx dual control shifters it had. It comes in at about 27lbs. Have yet to test it on some hard trails but I think it will work great.


----------



## Justin Fox (Mar 23, 2008)

Mine:


----------



## Sfgraham2 (Feb 27, 2005)

Mine

..and it's for sale.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Sfgraham2, I presume you're only selling it because you've got even finer build underway? )


----------



## Sfgraham2 (Feb 27, 2005)

Good presumption. 

In the case that anyone is interested:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Independent-Fabrication-17-Steel-Deluxe_W0QQitemZ130305505145QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMountain_Bikes?hash=item1e56d03779&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1308|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

and:

http://classifieds.mtbr.com/showproduct.php?product=34530&cat=


----------



## alwayslivingthedream (Mar 14, 2009)

This 1x9 thread has been a great help. Sounds like Jump stop and mrp carbon bash guard is going to be the ticket for my 36 tooth SC nomad.
Thanks All 
Pics when done..


----------



## Ray Lee (Aug 17, 2007)

I dont know... On my Prophet and a friends Trek (5inch FS dont know the model) when you compress the rear shock the chain moves up higher than the jump stop and in fast rocky trails I even bounced the chain over the Blackspire inner ring guard.



alwayslivingthedream said:


> This 1x9 thread has been a great help. Sounds like Jump stop and mrp carbon bash guard is going to be the ticket for my 36 tooth SC nomad.
> Thanks All
> Pics when done..


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

alwayslivingthedream, but on a Nomad you can run e13 LG1! Just don't use the taco guard. Or better yet, wait for LG1 2009 for even lighter setup.


----------



## nwd_26 (Jun 1, 2008)

I actually went one "better" than 1X9.....1X6! I use a Hope singlespeed hub for a dishless wheel (it also has twice the engagement and a steel freehub body over the standard Pro 2), a reduced Saint cassette, and up front a Profile chainring, as it is the only 9spd compatible 3-piece sprocket that fits Primo BMX cranks. The whole bike is 26-odd pounds, so the 33:11-18 gear spread is plenty.

Having ridden my local trails singlespeed for years, this thing is a TON of fun, commuting, trails, or street...full length seatpost of course, it's just tucked away. Bike can definitely hang on the group rides, be it street or trails.

When I have enough spare parts for a dedicated XC build, I'll still be running 1X6. Love it.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

nwd_26, I hear you very well! But 33-18 for the lowest gear seems too high to me. Even 32-24 is too high - I actually want at least one reducing ratio.

What are the cogs on your tuned cassette? Like 11-12-13-14-16-18?

More pics please! )

PS
Oh, that's a Specialized P bike? I've heard those frames (rear triangles) are offset 6 mm to the drive side, but it looks it's not the case with your rig - otherwise a dishless wheel would have been impossible with Hope Pro 2 Trials hub.


----------



## pedalmunky (Mar 14, 2007)

I hate front derailleurs:









Transition Preston w/ Gamut P20 chainguide, 34t Blackspire chainring, 11-34 990 SRAM cassette.









Eastern Warthog w/ Gamut G25 chainguide, 32t Blackspire chainring, 12-23 970 SRAM cassette.









Trek 4900 69'er frankenbike w/ Truvativ AM Guard and Blackspire Blackguard inner plate sandwiching 36t Blackspire chainring, 11-28 850 SRAM cassette.

I guess technically the Trek is a 1x8, but I'm gonna leave it in.


----------



## nwd_26 (Jun 1, 2008)

J. Random Psycho said:


> nwd_26, I hear you very well! But 33-18 for the lowest gear seems too high to me. Even 32-24 is too high - I actually want at least one reducing ratio.
> 
> What are the cogs on your tuned cassette? Like 11-12-13-14-16-18?
> 
> ...


Thanks.

Well two factors help me deal with the hard ratio...firstly, I live in the flattest part of Canada, in a large city....we don't have hills, we have a Valley. So that helps some. Also I've been riding singlespeed for a few years, and finally my tires (1.95" Kenda Small Block 8s) and tubes combined weigh around 1.1kg total, so the bike is fast off the line.

My cassette (Shimano HG80 Saint/SLX) was originally 11-28, and having ditched the top three cogs, I was left with 11-12-13-14-16-18, like you said. As a temporary cassette for a few days, I ran an old SRAM PG970, 11-34 originally I think. This gave me a 33:25 ratio at the easiest, so I suspect I would reduce an 11-34t cassette if I lived in an area with any elevation to speak of. This is how it started, this is how it ended up (105g with a steel lockring).

And yes, it still has that Specialized offset (why would they sell a complete bike singlespeed, that is incompatible with a singlespeed hub?!?!), I just use the chain tugs to slot the wheel in crooked, and set up my brake accordingly. It sounds like a sketchy set-up, but it works fine. And frankly I need the strength that a dishless 729 with straight-gauge spokes gives me.


----------



## NJ-XC-Justin (Jan 1, 2006)

pedalmunky said:


> I hate front derailleurs:
> 
> Transition Preston w/ Gamut P20 chainguide, 34t Blackspire chainring, 11-34 990 SRAM cassette.
> 
> ...


Killer quiver. Including an Eastern no less.

Not a fan of front ders. myself. Only one I got is on a road bike.


----------



## pedalmunky (Mar 14, 2007)

Thanx man.

Husker Du roolz. (Hey, anybody know how to type an umlaut?)


----------



## 99SX (Feb 15, 2008)

Hey guys-

The answer may be on this thread but I'm gonna ask anyways to avoid waddling through 8 pages. 

The idea of converting to a 1x9 setup sounds like a great idea because I was originally gonna remove the big ring up front (I never use it and it will give me some extra clearance) and get a bashguard in its place. Now for everyone thats converted to the 1x9 setup, do you have to get a singlespeed ring and crank up front? Or can I you just take off the rings and you're good to go? This concept is new to me so I apologize for the questions. 

Just in case...I have a C'dale caffeine but the crankset is from my 99' F900SX (5 bolt arm)


----------



## Diamondhead (Nov 2, 2007)

99SX said:


> Hey guys-
> 
> The answer may be on this thread but I'm gonna ask anyways to avoid waddling through 8 pages.
> 
> ...


Just remove your outer chain ring, and replace it with a bash gaurd, remove your inner ring,
and run a N-Gear Jump Stop to keep your chain from falling on the inside... Oh, and I almost forgot, loose that front derailleur, cable, and shiftr.
BTW If your happy with the gearing, continue to run your ramped and pinned middle chain ring, untill it wears out, you might want to switch to a singlespeed ring at that point, thats what I'm going to do.:thumbsup:

Cheers:thumbsup:


----------



## 99SX (Feb 15, 2008)

Diamondhead said:


> Just remove your outer chain ring, and replace it with a bash gaurd, remove your inner ring,
> and run a N-Gear Jump Stop to keep your chain from falling on the inside... Oh, and I almost forgot, loose that front derailleur, cable, and shiftr.
> BTW If your happy with the gearing, continue to run your ramped and pinned middle chain ring, untill it wears out, you might want to switch to a singlespeed ring at that point, thats what I'm going to do.:thumbsup:
> 
> Cheers:thumbsup:


My big ring is 44t I believe. If I take off the big ring and get a bashguard should the bashguard be one to cover a 44t? Or big enough to just cover the middle ring?

What do you guys think is the cheapest alternative: 1x9 with the bashguard and jump stop? Or just remove the big ring and put a bashguard on?


----------



## rugbyred (Aug 31, 2006)

You only need a bash guard the size of your middle ring. Many people go with a slightly larger bash than the middle ring to allow for a larger middle ring down the road.
As for cheaper, it will be cheaper without the jump stop, but you will most likely drop your chain and become frustrated.
Eric


----------



## 99SX (Feb 15, 2008)

rugbyred said:


> You only need a bash guard the size of your middle ring. Many people go with a slightly larger bash than the middle ring to allow for a larger middle ring down the road.
> As for cheaper, it will be cheaper without the jump stop, but you will most likely drop your chain and become frustrated.
> Eric


The bashguard is only 10 bucks. Can't go wrong with that. 1x9 or 2x9...that is the question


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

99SX said:


> My big ring is 44t I believe. If I take off the big ring and get a bashguard should the bashguard be one to cover a 44t? Or big enough to just cover the middle ring?
> 
> What do you guys think is the cheapest alternative: 1x9 with the bashguard and jump stop? Or just remove the big ring and put a bashguard on?


I have a Cannondale 1x9 as well. Check my profile, and look through my posts to see where i've posted pictures in this thread. You will see everyything you will need.


----------



## 99SX (Feb 15, 2008)

I like your setup. What size ring are you using up front? Looks like the middle ring. Do you think its an ideal setup for mostly AM riding? I guess all I really need is the bashguard and the Jump Stop. I saw chainguides require spacing and some extra mods to fit. I just want something simple and effective.


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

jump stop is $12


----------



## 99SX (Feb 15, 2008)

biketuna said:


> jump stop is $12


Yup thats what I paid. I finally made the switch to a 1x9 setup. I got the jump stop and a Heim bashguard. It looks pretty sweet. I kept the middle ring only but the bashguard seems pretty big. Maybe its just me? I'll try to post pics if I learn how. Thanks for all the input everyone.


----------



## equinox (Oct 31, 2007)

Would a Shimano Ultegra SL rear mech. work ok for a 1x9 setup?


----------



## andy311 (Jan 10, 2008)

*1x9 snatch*

here's my just finished converting today 1x9 bandersnatch

just got an x.0 short cage rd and gripshift.......

have not had time to go on a proper trail yet...but tooled around the neighborhood and so far i really like it.

sorry if crappy pics...i'm no photographer


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

andy311, I hope your going to install some type of chain guard and/or bash guard if your riding off road.


----------



## andy311 (Jan 10, 2008)

yeah i'll be installing the mrp 1.x as soon as i get it.... thanks for looking out though

also...i have 2 spacers on the drive side bottom bracket cup and 1 on the non drive and the mrp will replace one spacer on the drive side ... but would it be good to remove the remaining one for a better chainline ? has anyone messed with this?


----------



## 99SX (Feb 15, 2008)

looks good andy. you'll enjoy it. i converted to a 1x9 last week and i'm wondering why i didnt do it sooner.


----------



## Mackem (Jan 19, 2007)

Interesting thread. The N-stop seems a popular way of stopping the chain falling off on the inside. But a thought, would it not be better to have something similar to a bashring that fitted where the smallest chainring woud usually go, therfore you'd have your chain sandwich without having to bolt anything to the frame. Obviously this inner guide would be bigger than your middle ring. Perhaps this already exists?


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Mackem said:


> Interesting thread. The N-stop seems a popular way of stopping the chain falling off on the inside. But a thought, would it not be better to have something similar to a bashring that fitted where the smallest chainring woud usually go, therfore you'd have your chain sandwich without having to bolt anything to the frame. Obviously this inner guide would be bigger than your middle ring. Perhaps this already exists?


It does exist, but it also doesn't fit many frames, and probably most XC hardtail frames. There is already so little clearance between the middle ring and the chainstay on most frames, and it only gets tighter when you move closer in to the BB


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Mackem, such things do exist. But, for some reason, people tend to have mixed opinions on these.

Personally I prefer a proper lighweight chainguide with 32T and bigger front rings.


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

boomn said:


> It does exist, but it also doesn't fit many frames, and probably most XC hardtail frames. There is already so little clearance between the middle ring and the chainstay on most frames, and it only gets tighter when you move closer in to the BB


Yes, Blackspire makes one that I was using with my 1X9 setup.
When I switched to SLX crankset, the inner bash ring was just touching the chainstay so couldn't use the Blackguard.


----------



## alwayslivingthedream (Mar 14, 2009)

No jump and mrp gaurd not working. Still loosing chain every now and then. Even tried the new mrp 1x guide(lose chain on back pedal threw rough sections) Moving on to the new lg1+ guide. Did everything in my power to avoid this,but no choice. I'll post pics when done.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

alwayslivingthedream said:


> No jump and mrp gaurd not working. Still loosing chain every now and then. Even tried the new mrp 1x guide(lose chain on back pedal threw rough sections) Moving on to the new lg1+ guide. Did everything in my power to avoid this,but no choice. I'll post pics when done.


Yep, only a guide with a lower pulley will stop chain drops when back pedaling. How much back pedaling do you do by the way?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

boomn said:


> Yep, only a guide with a lower pulley will stop chain drops when back pedaling. How much back pedaling do you do by the way?


I have 2 setups right now:

1. Hardtail. Middleburn Uno and Rohloff Chain Guide. Entry level KMC 8 speed chain. New generation Saint super short cage derailer.
2. FS. Middleburn Hardcoat (not slick-shift) 32T ring on XTR M970, Gamut G25. Rohloff SLT 99 chain. SRAM X.0 short cage derailer.

Both chains are under 0.75 wear mark. I do lots of backpedaling. Ironically, the behavior is exactly the opposite. Gamut sometimes drops the chain even on flat ground. Uno never drops the chain.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

J. Random Psycho said:


> I have 2 setups right now:
> 
> 1. Hardtail. Middleburn Uno and Rohloff Chain Guide. Entry level KMC 8 speed chain. New generation Saint super short cage derailer.
> 2. FS. Middleburn Hardcoat (not slick-shift) 32T ring on XTR M970, Gamut G25. Rohloff SLT 99 chain. SRAM X.0 short cage derailer.
> ...


I think the key is that you have a Saint super short cage, whereas I am guessing that alwayslivingthedream probably has a long cage hold-over from his previous setup. The short cage is keeping the lower half of your chain under very high tension which means it is not likely to get a tooth or two bounced off the side. If the chain was bouncing around on the bottom and even a single link at the beginning of the contact area got off track, when you back pedal that link will pull the rest of the chain off as it goes around. _Theoretically_ a lower pulley should prevent this. Who knows whats going on with your Gamut though


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

boomn, I too think that it's because of the Saint.

As for the Gamut, I think I have set it up correctly. I also had a professional mechanic examine it, and he said it's good. He was unpleasantly surprised by this chain dropping performance, too.

To think of it, the whole unit seemed weird out of the box. The seal on the roller bearing clearly said "MADE IN CHINA", and I had to carefully enlarge the backplate hole with sandpaper (about 0.5 mm!) in order to fit the BB cup through.


----------



## alwayslivingthedream (Mar 14, 2009)

I'm running a Mid cage on the nomad but don't think I can run a small. Three rings nomads require long cage, so they(SC) say. On the back pedal question. I think everybody back pedal every now and then depending on how your setting yourself up for the corner turn. Tons of rough trial in tahoe/downieville.


----------



## Ozmosis (Sep 22, 2005)

Octo-cog! (sorry, only 8 in the rear)


----------



## veloreality (May 10, 2009)

haro beasley 1x9
suntour fork
odi grips
homemade chainguide
cb eggbeater mxr
masi seat
cat eye micro wireless
quick release seat clamp
rest is stock

ghetto homemade chainguide badly spaced out with triple cr bolts. it rubs a bit in the granny but it doesnt skip at all and keeps the chain on so im keeping it untill it fails me.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

It will not fail you. My Blackguard has never allowed me to drop a chain.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

veloreality, consider running an enclosed housing to the rear derailer. Bottom of top tube, top of right seatstay.

And... happy trails!


----------



## veloreality (May 10, 2009)

J. Random Psycho said:


> veloreality, consider running an enclosed housing to the rear derailer. Bottom of top tube, top of right seatstay.
> 
> And... happy trails!


im going to have to to get a better chainstay guard set up.
shoud i cut to fit sis housing? or will i be okay with the slip on cable covers?


----------



## twenty6black (Jan 12, 2009)

Here is a solution:

http://www.mrpbike.com/product.php?section=product&item=1x

Looks good, works! not heavy or expensive.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

veloreality said:


> shoud i cut to fit sis housing? or will i be okay with the slip on cable covers?


I'm not sure if I understand your question.. but here's the plan:

Take a long, uninterrupted piece of quality housing (be it Shimano SIS or other brand).

Route it from shifter to derailer. Use zip ties creatively to attach the housing to frame tubes. Don't tighten them fully yet.

Adjust length of the housing loop that goes from the trigger to the first zip tie. The loop must allow the handlebar to turn over 180 degrees freely in both directions.

Estimate how much length you need at the derailer end and cut there. Be sure to cut several cm longer than needed (this leaves some margin for error).

Make sure the housing ends are flat (a file and a keen eye is enough). Put 2 end ferrules on the housing.

Insert the housing ends into trigger and derailer. Cut down housing slightly at the derailer end, if there is excess. Reinstall ferrule.

Thread cable through housing, attach cable to derailer, put end crimp on cable, done.

Hope this helps..

*twenty6black*, yes, the thingy looks nice and light. Lighter than unmodified Rohloff CC. But I'm not sure about the BB mount.. I like seat tube clamps better for this purpose. However, BB mount does increase compatibility with some FS frames.


----------



## alwayslivingthedream (Mar 14, 2009)

Been there done it. It dropped from bottom.. Going with lg1+


----------



## lmckee (Feb 16, 2008)

Here's mine with the mrp 1.x. So far it has worked flawlessly, no dropped chains and minimal rubbing.


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

lmckee, where did you get those spacers on your chainring?


----------



## lmckee (Feb 16, 2008)

biketuna said:


> lmckee, where did you get those spacers on your chainring?


They came with the mrp 1.x. I have some red ss ones on order so I can lose the spacers, but they have worked fine so far.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Wow. OK, I gotta have that.



lmckee said:


>


----------



## Diamondhead (Nov 2, 2007)

Here's a few pics of my On-One Scandal slot dropout 1x9.




























Cheers:thumbsup:


----------



## alwayslivingthedream (Mar 14, 2009)

I would of sold you mine(mrp) for cost. Just got lg1+ and putting it on tomorrow.


----------



## NeedForSpeed (Mar 1, 2009)

*2009 Specialized RockHopper*

















Shimano deore break levers
Easton EC90 MonkeyLite CNT SL
Titec Pluto Pork Rinds 
RockShox Tora (thinking about changing, I could easily save 2 lbs)
X9 rd short cage 
X9 shifter
XT M770 Cassette
XT HG93 Chain
Blackspire Mono Veloce 
Gamut G25 bash guard
N-gear jump stop
Dimension sport pedals
Thomson Elite seat post
WTB Silverado Saddle 
kOol-stop mtb brake pads
Schwalbe Rocket Ron 2.23


----------



## dnoyeb (Sep 23, 2007)

2008 Trek Fuel EX7 1x9. Using the MRP G2- mini G with the BB mount. Works well, but I think it adds a bit of drag since I can hear the wheel spinning. Also, the top guide is a bit too restrictive since the chain touches it a bit in the highest and lowest gears.

I also put on a smaller rear derailleur but that's not shown in this shot.


----------



## sp0om (Feb 28, 2004)

Just picked up my bike after they converted it to a 1x8
This is the first upgrade and I couldn't be happier with it


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

sp0om, that looks like solid workhorse build. Have fun!


----------



## sp0om (Feb 28, 2004)

Thanks, I just took it out for its first full ride this evening, and it was great!


----------



## damnitzhym (Feb 1, 2009)

Built this frame up as 1x9 this past winter. Like it so much I'm planning to convert my back-up bike to 1x8


----------



## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

Sette Reken
Truvativ IsoFlow Crank
Salsa 32T SS Chain Ring
Race Face Bash Guard
N-Gear Jump Stop
X-9 Trigger Shfter
X-9 Short Cage Derailluer
Sram PG 990 11-32 Cassette
Sram 9 Speed Chain
Dart 2 80mm Travel Fork
Pyramid Headset
Titec Big Al Stem
Sette Type B Lock on Grips
Promax Brake Levers
Avid Front Brake
Shimano Rear Brake
Shimano Deore Disc Hubs
Sun Rhyno Rims
Panaracer Fire XC Pro Kevlar Tires
Sette Venn Seat Post
Selle San Marco Saddle


----------



## precar (Apr 27, 2004)

Is there a post already out there for an introduction or primer on converting to a 1x9 setup?

Most of the setups I see are 32/34/36T. If I wanted to could I run the 22T or 44T ring? Can I just use the current chainring or do I need a new/special one?


Thanks.


----------



## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

You dont have a 32T chain ring already? It should be the middle ring, or small depending on if you have a 2 or 3 chain rings.


----------



## precar (Apr 27, 2004)

No I do, I just wanted to know if everyone went with the 32T because of personal preference or some mechanical/technical reason.


----------



## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

Its the common single speed gear, which makes it good, and it works with all 9 gears in the back without to many issues.


----------



## bycyclist (Oct 13, 2008)

precar said:


> Can I just use the current chainring or do I need a new/special one?
> .


Ideally change your chainring to a non-ramped chainring like the Blackspire, MRP, etc. But you can just run your current ring till it wears out. Non-ramped chainring less likely to have your chain jump off I think.


----------



## Skoezie (Apr 11, 2006)

Converted my GT to 1x9.

















Saved about 300 Gr in weight.

Hopefully have some time this weekend to try it out


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

*This one is 1x6 actually. )*

I've finished my first custom titanium project. Did first 2 rides today. This thing takes off almost on its own, and is easily steered in the air.

The idea was to build a do-all bike, with emphasis on reliability. My idea of "do-all" includes street trials training and some good old trailriding when I fancy it. Also, it has to double as a short range commuter. It is the replacement of my Cove Handjob for these duties. The bike is going to see more asphalt and concrete than Cove did..

The specs are:

*Frame:*
Custom titanium frame, made by Rapid Titanium, Russia. For the starting point I took Cove Handjob geometry I'm accustomed to and made the bike lower, shorter and twitchier. I wanted it to be versatile, so there are both front derailer cable stops and ISCG 05 tabs (neither of which I used for this build). Also, never mind the rear derailer hanger.. ) This turned out for the better, as I have contacted a machine shop dude and he made replaceable aluminum hangers for me (best of both worlds, that is). The welds are good. Weight is 1960 g.

*Fork:*
Manitou Minute Comp TPC 20 mm axle, 100 mm travel, coil.

*Front wheel:*
Hope Pro 2, DT Swiss Competition, Mavic EN521 Disc.

*Rear wheel:*
Hope Pro 2 Trials, DT Swiss Competition, Mavic EN521 Disc.

*Bottom bracket:*
SKF BFR-600, ISIS, 128 mm axle.

*Crankset:*
Middleburn RS7 ISIS, Middleburn Pro Trials Guard, Blackspire Chuck 24T stainless steel ring, Middleburn stainless steel bolts.

*Pedals:*
Nuke Proof Neutron, CrMo axle.

*Cassette:*
6 cogs from Shimano HG70.

*Lockring:*
Chris King Ti, 11T (for better thread engagement).

*Chain:*
KMC X8-93

*Chain guide:*
Handmade, based on Rohloff Chain Guide CC.

*Rear derailer:*
Shimano Saint M810, super short cage.

*Shifter:*
Shimano Alivio trigger shifter.

*Shifter housing:*
Nokon.

*Brakes:*
Avid BB7 calipers, Avid Speed Dial SL levers, Nokon housing, Formula Oro 160 mm rotors (will do for now - plans are to put 185 mm Avid CS G3 on both wheels).

*Headset:*
Hope. What else? )

*Stem:*
Hope DH, 50 mm, 25 degrees rise.

*Handlebar:*
Easton EC70 CNT riser, 685 mm, 2" rise.

*Grips:*
ODI Ruffian, tuned with Straitline Ti end caps (with some washers and inner tube pieces under set screws to distribute load on carbon).

*Seatpost:*
Thomson Elite, 31.6 x 410 mm.

*Seatpost clamp:*
Hope QR 2009 type, 34.9 mm.

*Saddle:*
WTB Rocket V, the one with hollow Ti rails, that weighs 211 g.

*Tires:*
Schwalbe Marathon Extreme 2.25".

And like I said, I'm no good at taking photos..


----------



## s4gobabygo (Sep 1, 2008)

my "bash guard" would probably melt if i hit something hard enough, but it guides the chain nicely. i just cut down a chainring i wasn't using. it only weighs 36g. all together, i saved 404g:

removed:
135g shimano lx left shifter, cable, and housing 
167g shimano lx front derailleur 
74g truvativ big ring 
48g truvativ small ring and 4 bolts 
12g sram 970 chain shortened (284g to 272g) 
4g bb shell cable guide & screw

added:
36g DIY "bash" guard

Net:
*404g*


----------



## alwayslivingthedream (Mar 14, 2009)

I've been seeing all these conversions which is great to see. But out of all these conversions which I have tried, nothing beats the chain guide. The Lg1+ new from e thirteen has by far worked the best. I have it setup on my nomad. It only weighs 175 grams give or take. 
Trust me folks!


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

alwayslivingthedream said:


> I've been seeing all these conversions which is great to see. But out of all these conversions which I have tried, nothing beats the chain guide. The Lg1+ new from e thirteen has by far worked the best. I have it setup on my nomad. It only weighs 175 grams give or take.
> Trust me folks!


post a picture


----------



## Ray Lee (Aug 17, 2007)

My hardtails do not need a real guide (one has a inner and outer plate, the other had a the Jump Stop and never come off, but my Prophets rear suspension would move the chain line up past the Jump Stop and in fast rocky sections the chain would jump the Blackspire inner plate.

I have been using a MRP MiniMe for over a year and have never lost a chain











alwayslivingthedream said:


> I've been seeing all these conversions which is great to see. But out of all these conversions which I have tried, nothing beats the chain guide. The Lg1+ new from e thirteen has by far worked the best. I have it setup on my nomad. It only weighs 175 grams give or take.
> Trust me folks!


----------



## TrikeKid (Sep 1, 2006)

Converted mine after reading this thread last night. Half an hour well spent to lose some weight and complexity that I wasn't using anyway. I just cut up my stock front der for a jump stop for now, I'll probably make an inner ring soon, already had a bash ring


----------



## lemons (Apr 23, 2008)

Have been running a single 36t ring for a while and used an old front derailleur to keep my chain on. After reading this thread and looking at the pics I bought a MRP guide. Using the old derailleur the chain would jump and rattle around but it's smooth and quiet now. Also as a bonus the MRP guide doesn't catch and rip at my trouser leg

MRP is a very nice company to deal with, they answered my pre sale questions and even got there UK distributor to ship me an extra bolt after I stripped mine (my fault).




























This may only happen with my particular setup, but I had a real problem that if the chain dropped on the inside of the cranks if would jam inside the granny mounts and I would have to split the chain to get it out. 5 mins with a hack saw sorted this.


----------



## equinox (Oct 31, 2007)

Hope this flickr links works

and it does not...anyone got a step by step guide for sharing a image located on flickr here on MTBR.com
should see an image:








Line below ?:

__
https://flic.kr/p/3755494855


----------



## loric (Oct 19, 2005)

Here some pics of my last singlering setups, replacing my DIY carbon bash-ring in outer position by :

+ a *Rohloff Chain Guide* :

  
Tuned version with DIY carbon plates :
 

+ or by a brand-new *Paul Components Chain Keeper* :

   

Both are really efficient but fine positionning is quite difficult, especially for the Paul Component.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

loric, this Rohloff Chainguide CC mod looks factory made.. Mine is much more ******* style. )


----------



## barroo (Oct 29, 2005)

I've been running my 1x9 set up without any chain keeper or bash guard at all for almost 6 months and have never dropped my chain. I have:

08 Redline D460
32t Surly SS chainring up front
SRAM PG-980 out back
SRAM X.9 Short Cage Der.
SRAM X.9 Shifter
SRAM 9-speed chain trimmed to big-big +2 links.

Everything works great.


----------



## loric (Oct 19, 2005)

SS chainring have deeper teeth than multispeed chanring, this may be the reason why you don't need any artefact like bash-guard or chain-guide to keep the chain on ...


----------



## facelessfools (Aug 30, 2008)

this was an older much larger diameter MRP set. its been trimmed to fit the smaller RF bash guard. still waiting on parts to put it together.
MRP rear guide
Shimano 36t 
Shimano 34-11t cassette
KMC chain
Shimano Lx derailleur Long cage and shifter will be on soon.


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

loric said:


> SS chainring have deeper teeth than multispeed chanring, this may be the reason why you don't need any artefact like bash-guard or chain-guide to keep the chain on ...


Depends on the trail and riding style.
I run SS ring with bashwich/short cage RD and still drop chain once in a while when flying down rough downhill.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Guess what's going on this. Full pic set will be posted on completion of build.
Funny thing is, all the angles are almost identical to my Planet X frame, but this is a pound lighter.


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

I have some updates on my new 1x9 setup. I Ditched my old 32T chainring and LX shimano crank set.

In favor of a brand new Salsa Single speed 32T chain ring, and an old school carbon Race Face crankset that is paint matched to my red Cannondale. 

Pics to come.


----------



## dobby156 (Jun 15, 2009)

Here is my lastest, unually large chainring @ 44T, but it does a lot of road and there arn't to many steep sections where I am at, bash guard is a fraction to small for my liking, with the chain just level with it, Also it uses ISIS, that will be my next upgrade to get rid of it for an external design (I quite like the look of the new SLX wither that or XT).


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Geoff Kabush, the Maxxis MadMan, dominates the Mt Snow XC race Sunday running 1x9.

Scoreboard.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Oh yeah. He did the same thing last week, winning his first World Cup XC race at Bromont, Quebec, in absolutely disgusting conditions.


----------



## drmayer (Apr 19, 2007)

Here is my 1x8 setup on my commuter. I used a road crank, 48T. No problems with chain dropping.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Here's the new frame with most of the same old parts.










Truvativ Hussefelt crank
Crank Bros Cobalt BB
e13 34T guidering
Spot brand chainguard
Wippermann 9x1 stainless chain
SRAM x.9 shifter & RD
SRAM 990 11-34T cassette
Hope QRs
Specialized derailleur guard


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Geoff Kabush's thoughts on his 1x9 race setup:


__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/3257261500


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

Here is my Cannondale F500 with new Race-Face crankset, and Salsa 32T Single Speed chainring


----------



## Diver85 (Apr 6, 2009)

Kyle! nice bike, you didn't tell me that the new cranks were red. i'll probably be switching my bike over to 1x9 soon(ish). 

>nik


----------



## ZenkiS14 (Aug 25, 2008)

Hahaha hey Nik!! Im gonna call you since i know your awake now!! 

I rode it tonight, and it rode fantastic! Not a single chain drop all day! That new SS chain ring was perfect!


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I've been looking into converting my Stumpy HT into a 1x9. I have most of the items ready to order, but one. What size chain will I need in running a 32t front 11-34t rear?


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Chain size will depend on the length of your chainstays on the frame. Just lace it up with the chain on the 34/32 and take enough chain off to get rid of the slack. Not too much though...you could rip the derailleur right off the hanger, hahaha.


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

ok thanks for the info.


----------



## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

Well if it is a 9 speed cassette I would run a 9 speed chain. Take you chain and put it around the front chain ring and around the 34T cog in the back. Pull the chain taught then add 2 links for slack and that is how long your chain should be.


----------



## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Couple quick questions as I'd like to convert the new bike to a 1x9. '09 Trance X2 with the Race Face Deus XC cranks 22/32/44. Didn't see this talked about, or I missed it completely... 


Around here I ride a few trails that it's nice to have the granny available. For this reason, I'm thinking of trying a 30T up front, instead of the 32T.
I never ride road or fireroad etc, so not too worried about losing a bit of speed at the top end.
Anyone out there using a 30T non-ramped chainring?

Also, for those running no bashguard, have you ever damaged your chainring or chain? I like the clean lines up front with no bashguard, but I'd hate to nail a rock or log and bugger up a new chainring & chain.

Any input would be appreciated


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

I ride a 30 tooth non ramped mounted on the inner. no need for a bash guard with the extra clearance for me in FL. I use a 36 tooth up front for PA downhill Park.


----------



## cifex (Sep 11, 2009)

Currently looking to go 1x8 as well. I've got a Trek 4300. I think I may need to replace the whole crank as it has some weird 6 bolt pattern. It's a SUNTOUR. Could anyone advise? Do I need a new spindle as well?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

cifex, are those actually removable bolts or something more like rivets?

The BB is most probably a square taper. If you don't want to upgrade right away, your options are:

1. Attempt to remove the granny and the big ring in a civilized manner.
2. Failing that, attempt to find a good deal on a square taper crankset.
3. Failing that, just leave the big ring as is, and use it as bash ring.

What would I do? I'd go for Shimano SLX crankset, and would have invested in BB shell facing at a good LBS, if this was possible (which is not the case in my city, so I keep to ISIS Middleburn RS7 / SKF BB combo with either Middleburn Uno ring, or a granny mounted on Middleburn Pro Trials Guard).


----------



## cifex (Sep 11, 2009)

Yea, they are rivets. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## siippou (May 7, 2009)

*Cannondale f1 1x9*

Here´s my cannondale converted to 1x9. Wish I had done this earlier :thumbsup:


----------



## cifex (Sep 11, 2009)

You're missing half your fork!


----------



## siippou (May 7, 2009)

cifex said:


> You're missing half your fork!


But I got it for half price


----------



## RedRider93 (Sep 28, 2007)

> But I got it for half price


and it's half the weight


----------



## ADDam (Jun 7, 2008)

My Play Bike

1x9 Cdale Quick, Alfine crank, X-9 Rear der, X-9 GripShift. (now has Thomson Setback and Fizik saddle)


----------



## jojotherider (May 20, 2009)

so my setup is currently 1x9 and my front ring is 36t. I'd like to go 32t so I have and easier time on the hills. I was at REI looking at chainrings the other day (not really thinking about switching) and noticed there are different diameters offered. how do you know what size to pick?


----------



## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

*Finally converted Trance X2*

Had to order a crank puller from Park tools to get my crank arm off.

Bash ring from BBG:









30T non-ramped chainring from andersenmachine.com









Assembled crank arm:









Finished:









Went for it's maiden voyage today & it was great. No rubbing from the FD (cause it's gone . Dropping from the 32T to a 30T seems like it's going to work out great. Even had a few mile ride on the road to get to the trail today, & didn't feel like I was spinning out.

No chain guide on the front, other than the bash of course, & no chain drops. Hopefully it'll continue that way.

Update, rode the Brown County Breakdown this weekend, 42 miles, no issues or chain drops. Awesome!


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Shark said:


> Had to order a crank puller from Park tools to get my crank arm off.
> 
> Bash ring from BBG:
> 
> ...


How much did he charge for the non-ramped ring?


----------



## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

chelboed said:


> How much did he charge for the non-ramped ring?


$56 I believe. He also offers it in black anodized but it would have taken longer. Very happy so far, another ride today, no dropped chain . :thumbsup:


----------



## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

*1xEvil*










My XC/trail mean machine. At the moment just waiting for MRP 1.X.


----------



## Ricci Chang (Jun 9, 2008)

I.V.A. Your beautifully built-up EVIL is simply SICK!! Best bike of this thread! :thumbsup: 
How do you keep your chain from jumping off while XC/trail riding? You don't even have jumpstop/chain guide, or guard. I have the same clean setup (36T front) but my chain fall off quite often during XC/trail riding. Can anyone help?!  
I wonder how Geoff Kabush set up his championship bike? 
Thanks.


----------



## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

Thank you R.C. Well, my chain does fall of, but it depends where I ride. It mostly hapens on breaking bumps and on rough parts of trail between pedaling. But I was riding it in 1x9 setup just for couple of weekends without some major issues, so I'm still not irritated with chain epilepsy. I ordered MRP 1.X. And guess what Geoff Kabush is using... :thumbsup:


----------



## kimjeffisis (Sep 9, 2009)

This is my Honolulu commuter.
I just realized one day that i was never shifting the FD, so away it went. 
Can't seem to get it less than 23lbs without compromising its "lack of" curb appeal. 
E*13 34t guidering holds on to the chain well. 
This is an urban bike though. 
Fork is a SID with lockout that is incredible for this application.


----------



## in the trees (Mar 24, 2005)

I.V.A. said:


> I ordered MRP 1.X.


Running the the just the upper backplate and wearplate of the e-13 LG1+ works very well. Similar to the MRP 1.X, but I liked the fact that I could use my ISCG mounts for it. I ran it for most of the season without any chain drop issues.:thumbsup:

toby


----------



## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

I was thinking about that, but here LG1+ costs around $200 and 1.X will cost me $95-$100 (thats with shipment and other expenses).


----------



## tate6969 (Oct 6, 2009)

Just tried 1x9 yesterday on some pretty tough fire trail and some nice single track.

yestersay's 1x9 setup was simply the big chain ring, shifter and cable removed. I used the derailleur limit screws to fix the cage to where i thought it would be best for keeping the chain on. for something that cost nothing, it was great. summary below:

Advantages: without having the granny ring, i had to push harder in the easiest gear i had (34/32) to get up the climbs. this was such a better solution. i used to find in the granny ring, i would spend alot of effort in trying to keep the front wheel on the ground and the bike going in a straight line. without all the torque of the small ring, yesterday i found that the bikes front wheel was on the ground, and the bike was straight and climbing wasnt as hard as i thought! further to that, i also flew up the hill leaving the others with their granny rings still struggling up the hill once i had finished.

for those worried about gearing, this 2km hill averaged 18% max'ing out at 26% and using a 32t chainring and 34t cog i had to walk for about 10 meters of it. im sure with practise on the 1x9 setup ill develop the extra leg strength to push on through without having to walk.

on the other end of the spectrum, there was a long slight downhill where we would sit on about 40-55km/hr. i had not troubles up to about 45km/hr. legs were spinning, but not much above 120rpm. the other guys tried making a move and accelerated past me in their big ring. i had to pedal like mad to get on their back wheel to get into the slipstream, but when i got there i got dragged along at 60 without even pedalling. infact, the guy up front was pedalling, and i was using my brakes ever so slightly to maintain the small gap between his rear and my front wheel. so 60km/hr is possible on a 32/34 providing you are with someone else! whats best is that when you are doing 60, youre actually having a break!

things ill be changing for next time:

bigger front ring. ill stick on a 34 or 36t ss ring to bring my top speed up by about 5 km/hr. i dont think this will be a problem for the trails i ride because i managed first time up the steepest hill climbs around with a 32.

MRP1.x is on order. the front derailleur is good unless you are bombing it over some rough terrain in your 32/11 gear. the chain jumped off the outside three times in this scenario. nothing a ss chainring and an mrp wont sort out im sure.

short cage derailleur. this is the part im looking forward to most! this will tighten up the chain reducing chain slap and suck. hopefully it will completely get rid of that awful clanging noise of the chain slapping against the chainstays on fast rough terrain.

all in all, im stoked i gave it a go and will definately be keeping it. for those still unsure, do what i did first up to see if you like it.... its free!


----------



## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

tate6969 said:


> hopefully it will completely get rid of that awful clanging noise of the chain slapping against the chainstays on fast rough terrain./QUOTE]
> 
> And be sure to put some old tube and couple of zip ties around drivetrain side chainstay, if you haven't done that already. Much better than neoprere/velcro solution.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

tate6969 said:


> MRP1.x is on order. the front derailleur is good unless you are bombing it over some rough terrain in your 32/11 gear. the chain jumped off the outside three times in this scenario. nothing a ss chainring and an mrp wont sort out im sure.


Actually, a simple bash ring would cure that issue. If you're runing a FD still, then you have all the "guide" you need to keep the chain where it needs to be. Not that a guide is a bad idea. I'm very "pro guide".:thumbsup:


----------



## pipes10 (Mar 11, 2007)

Transition Double
Demo 7
Nomad2 (now with Ti spring)

All 1x9 with a Gamut chainguide.


----------



## Ricci Chang (Jun 9, 2008)

*1x9 Hammer*

IVA's Evil Sovereign remains my favorite bike of this thread (if not the whole pinkbike site). But Pipes10's custom 1x9 Double and Nomad are serious beauty! 







Nowhere as sexy as those bikes, here is my wife's 1x9 Hammer which I just lightened it by 1.1lb (18 unused gears). She is loving it after 3 days (20km) ride. Blackspire 36T front and X9 rear derailer works like charm.


----------



## vizsladog (Mar 15, 2009)

Bought a Origin 8 single Aluminium single speed sprocket and a 3rd eye chain watcher.

The fire x cranks had steel sprockets.

3 steel sprockets
front d/r
cables for d/r
x-7 shifter
steel bolts

678 grams....

3rd eye and origin 8 superlight chainring and aluminum bolts....

almost nothing.....

no problems at all with this set up.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

vizsladog, that looks like highly unsafe setup, especially with long cage derailer and FS frame. Why not MRP 1.X?


----------



## vizsladog (Mar 15, 2009)

unsafe???

I figured with a non ramped chainring it wouldnt come off.

i rode it a good bit today with some rooty rocky and had no probs.


----------



## Lambdamaster (Nov 5, 2008)

RF 34T single
SRAM PG980 11-34T


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Non-ramped chainrings are good, but they are best at preventing derailments initiated by the lower stretch of the chain, especially when coupled with short cage rear derailers. Most derailments, however, result from upper stretch of the chain going off, and that's where full coverage chain cages shine.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

I'll repeat my theory that most derailments come when the lower chain is moving around and the cranks are turned backwards, usually coming into rocky corners. You often don't realize the chain is off until you try to accelerate out of the corner. A short cage RD and shortened chain certainly helps keep the chain from flopping around as much, but changing your technique to pedal into the corner without spinning the pedals backwards makes a bigger difference. 
Its been so long since i've dropped a chain that I have considered dumping my bashguard & chainwatcher, but I'm sure that's just asking for trouble.


----------



## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

Indiefab said:


> I'll repeat my theory that most derailments come when the lower chain is moving around and the cranks are turned backwards, usually coming into rocky corners. You often don't realize the chain is off until you try to accelerate out of the corner. A short cage RD and shortened chain certainly helps keep the chain from flopping around as much, but changing your technique to pedal into the corner without spinning the pedals backwards makes a bigger difference.
> Its been so long since i've dropped a chain that I have considered dumping my bashguard & chainwatcher, but I'm sure that's just asking for trouble.


I agree that drops initiating from the bottom are an issue, especially for riders that are frequently adjusting their pedal positions. I find myself doing that once in a while to avoid obstacles and around rough corners. At first I thought it was that the N-Gear was too loose, but then I realized the issue you just pointed out. All it takes is a partial turn in reverse while taking a good pop and bam.

It's also probably an issue more common to bikes with a rigid rear end like HTs, and not so much on FS rigs. At least that's what I've found.

Running with no protection is certainly not the way to go though IMO, it's definitely asking for trouble. And trouble that you ask for is most always found


----------



## sk1er18 (Jul 11, 2009)

I joined the fun...

i dont really care about weight.... for me this was more about simplifying the bike. I have not used the FD once- so i saw the extra derailer, linkage, shifter, chainrings, etc as extra unnecessary parts... and an opportunity to take something apart


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

sk1er18, join the club. )

Looks like the Jump Stop plate can be moved outboard a millimeter more?


----------



## sk1er18 (Jul 11, 2009)

Thanks.

And the jumpstop is in the right position... it looks far away because im on the smallest gear on the rear cog for those pics.


----------



## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Pretty old picture...









Slightly newer picture... but imagine with a 11-21 cassette, x9 shifter and cassette, and gamut guide.


----------



## jojotherider (May 20, 2009)

hi folks. i could use a recommendation...

i'm currently running 1x9 with 36t in the front. unfortunately not sure what the combos are in the back. What i do know is that on a regular day of riding i only use the 5 bigger gears. what would you guys recommend i switch my chainring to in order to use the whole cassette? the only time i ever use the smaller gears is cruising from my friend's house to the trail.

is it that I just need to try different sizes and see what i like (and purchase from a store with a friendly return policy like rei)?


----------



## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

I have a 32t in the front, and 11-32 in the back and I only end up using half my gears when I am off road. I dont ride my bike on the street usually so I dont know what I would run then.


----------



## cifex (Sep 11, 2009)

32T is a typical single chain ring.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

+1 for 32T, especially if you prefer to sit and spin.


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Current 1x9 is SX Trail with 33T to 11T-32T. I also went up from 170mm cranks to 175mm and decided on the Gamut P20 over an LG1.


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

jojotherider said:


> hi folks. i could use a recommendation...
> 
> i'm currently running 1x9 with 36t in the front. unfortunately not sure what the combos are in the back. What i do know is that on a regular day of riding i only use the 5 bigger gears. what would you guys recommend i switch my chainring to in order to use the whole cassette? the only time i ever use the smaller gears is cruising from my friend's house to the trail.
> 
> is it that I just need to try different sizes and see what i like (and purchase from a store with a friendly return policy like rei)?


We need to know how many teeth on the biggest cog in the cassette


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

SteveUK said:


> decided on the Gamut P20 over an LG1.


Why, were there clearance issues with LG1?


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

J. Random Psycho said:


> Why, were there clearance issues with LG1?


Yes, the angle of the backplate wasn't wide enough. I'd had it fitted to my Big Hit previously, so the rear portion of the lower idler had already been considerably cut down. I could have just about got away with it, but it would have left the lower idler right against the chainstay.

I could have just picked up a wide-angle backplate; but, as I was trying to get the weight down on the bike as a whole, I opted to go for the P20. There's only 20g between it and the LG1+, and I rather prefer the idea of having bash protection on the cranks rather than attached to the BB/ISCG tabs.


----------



## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

*Widgits*

Currently running one of these "Widgits"> https://www.widgit.com.au/index.html in a 28T (30T also available) with a hybrid XTR-Deore 12-36t Casette.

The Widgit guide mounts to the granny tabs and the chainring offset hence it's placed between the granny and the middle ring positions allowing a better chainline for 1x9.

For my trails the 28T version allows me to use all the cassette, close to.......
*1st gear of 22granny x 30t (2nd gear on a 11-34 casst)
*9th gear 32middlet x13t (8th gear on a 11-34 casst)


----------



## jojotherider (May 20, 2009)

thanks for the responses on the chainring. I will look tonight and see how many teeth are on the biggest cog. Out of curiosity, why are you asking?

For those of you that have 32t do you run through all of your gears?

I guess i should also say that i am riding an all-mountain bike. I basically pedal it up for the downhills with the occasional xc trail every couple of weeks. i just feel like i should get more use out of all the gears since they are there and then for the really steep hills have more granny gears available to me.


----------



## jojotherider (May 20, 2009)

Gripo said:


> Currently running one of these "Widgits"> http://www.widgit.com.au/index.html in a 28T (30T also available) with a hybrid XTR-Deore 12-36t Casette.
> 
> The Widgit guide mounts to the granny tabs and the chainring offset hence it's placed between the granny and the middle ring positions allowing a better chainline for 1x9.
> 
> ...


Can you explain what you're saying at the end there? are you saying that in the 1st gear on your 28t is like 2nd gear on a normal setup? and then 9th is like 8th gear on a normal setup?


----------



## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

jojotherider said:


> For those of you that have 32t do you run through all of your gears?
> /QUOTE]
> 
> I can hit all the gears in my 1x9 with no issues. I dont use them all, but I can if I want.


----------



## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

that widgit thing looks pretty cool actually.


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

jojotherider said:


> thanks for the responses on the chainring. I will look tonight and see how many teeth are on the biggest cog. Out of curiosity, why are you asking?
> 
> For those of you that have 32t do you run through all of your gears?
> 
> I guess i should also say that i am riding an all-mountain bike. I basically pedal it up for the downhills with the occasional xc trail every couple of weeks. i just feel like i should get more use out of all the gears since they are there and then for the really steep hills have more granny gears available to me.


the smaller you make the front chainring the more you will use the smaller cogs in the rear.
You should try a 34 and a 32 and see what works best for you for your riding conditions.
The smaller you make the front the more easy gears you gain and hard gears you loose.


----------



## Ricci Chang (Jun 9, 2008)

*1x9 Gear Ratio Calculation*

Both my wife and me use 36T front and 11~34T rear, and we use all 9 gears on our daily commute and XC trail rides without any problem. I change to 32T front (and shorter chain) only when I participate in XC races or on long/tough trail rides. Only a handful of my riding friends run 1x9, however, we all believe 11~34T rear gives better and wider ratio gear range.

As to front chainring, it really depends on where you ride (and how strong your legs are)! You will find most 1x9 riders run 32T, 34T, or 36T. I did up a Gear Ratio Calculation. Hope this will help! 
View attachment GRatio_Bike.pdf


----------



## jojotherider (May 20, 2009)

cool thanks for all the information. I am able to get to all the gears. but if feel like i should get more use out of all of them.

ricci - how different did the long/tough trails feel with the 32t? i'm probably going to go that route and see how it feels. probably try and get something from REI as they are local to me and have a fairly liberal return policy.

does it matter if i get a chainring with ramps and such? i've got a Gamut bashguardwith a tensioner and guide. the reason i ask is that i havent seen nonramped as often. though, i'm probably looking in the wrong places.

edit: nevermind. found one on pricepoint. http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/17...hguards/Rennen-4-Bolt-104mm-BCD-Chainring.htm will order this weekend.


----------



## Ricci Chang (Jun 9, 2008)

JoJotheRider:
I change to 32T front only on race day and long/tough trail rides. Compare to 36T, there is not much difference when riding down in 32T front, but it does help me in long climb-ups.

For 1x9 newcomers, run 32T is good start as 32T chainring already come standand on most cranksets.

Non-ramped chainring helps prevent chain drops. Most non-ramped chainrings (slightly taller teeth) are for single speed. Blackspire's superb 'Mono Veloce' chainring is single speed chainring and 9-speed chain compatible. It does a wonderful job! You have bashguard and guide so you shouldn't worry too much about chain-drop or ramped chainrings.
See you on the trails!


----------



## jojotherider (May 20, 2009)

So it turns outthe rear is 11t-34t.

was out riding last weekend and didn't get out of the 4 biggest cogs. I used the 4th gear for jumps and downhill sections. I was pretty beat before our last climb and frowned when i realized i only had one easy gear left. As it turns out, i didn't need it and made it through just fine.

I think I'm still going to give the 32T a try. I still feel like i should be using more of the gears. I'd prefer to be riding in the middle 4 gears than the inner 4 gears if that makes sense. That way i have some harder gear options when i need it and some easier gear options when i need it.

edit: wait, so according to the gear ratio that ricci chang posted, i'd really only be gaining one extra big gear to work with? is that right? jumping to the next size down seems like a big jump, but at the same time the 32T doesn't seem like a huge gain. am i missing something?

maybe its just time to give it a shot...


----------



## Ricci Chang (Jun 9, 2008)

JoJotheRider:
You are right. Change 36T front to 32T front doesn't seem like a huge gain, it will give you _only_ 1 extra easy gear when you need it as you climb up. (At least this is how I look at it.) You, however, may not run as fast on flat or downhill.
Try a chainring and hit your favarite trails a few times, eventually, you will figure out what works best for you!


----------



## chumbuddy (Sep 3, 2007)

After a year, still no complaints with the Salsa ring dinger on the outside and a Jump Stop on the inside. One derailled chain in 12 months, but it was due to the Jump Stop being loose.


----------



## jojotherider (May 20, 2009)

Ricci Chang said:


> Blackspire's superb 'Mono Veloce' chainring is single speed chainring and 9-speed chain compatible. It does a wonderful job!


ordered this today for $24 from pricepoint. not a bad cost to experiment.

so, installing. any good guides you can recommend for doing the install? do i need special tools? did a quick search and it seemed fairly easy and just needed a crank puller or something like that.

-joel


----------



## Rip (Jan 12, 2004)




----------



## zaskaranddriver (Oct 14, 2009)

*Another convert*

Jettisoned components:









I went with Paul's:


----------



## jojotherider (May 20, 2009)

ok, so i got the 32t installed. not going riding until sat though.

question: I got the chainring installed and it pedals forward ok, but if i pedal backwards at all, the chain comes off the rear gears. this only happens when i'm the easiest gear. it'll drop down to the harder gears. i'm guessing its just a tuning issue.

thoughts?


----------



## carbon pancreas (Sep 5, 2005)

*1 x 10?*

Hey guys,

I Just acquired SRAM XX gear and wanted to try running a 1 x 10 setup after seeing that Julien Absalon was using it at the worlds this year. There is a pic on cyclingnews if anyone is interested.

I've run into two problems.

Firstly, the big ring that comes standard is a 42 (way too big) so I purchased an aftermarket
36tooth ring, which I have discovered won't work as XX cranks are 120 BCD.

Secondly, the chain guide I purchased (the basic MRP one) wont reach far enough over toward the chainring to accommodate this even if I did have the right size ring.

Has anyone tried this setup and got it to work somehow?
Also, does anyone know of anywhere I could get a 120 BCD 36 tooth chainring?

Thanks guys!!


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

carbon pancreas said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I Just acquired SRAM XX gear and wanted to try running a 1 x 10 setup after seeing that Julien Absalon was using it at the worlds this year. There is a pic on cyclingnews if anyone is interested.
> 
> ...


This is probably worthy of its own thread, and you'll surely get more responses.


----------



## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

Little update with some Funn bits, X-7 short cage and 1.X. I guess this is it!


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

carbon pancreas said:


> Secondly, the chain guide I purchased (the basic MRP one) wont reach far enough over toward the chainring to accommodate this even if I did have the right size ring.


The MRP should reach over to the middle ring lateral offset. Correct?


----------



## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

Absalon is riding on e*13 and the chainring is either custom made or 39T from 39-26 setup. Here's the link on some photos. And the XCX seat tube mounting guide from e*13 is still a proto. XX's chainline is 49,5mm. 1.X chainline range is 49-50mm with supplied plastic spacer, so technically if you got 39T chainring on XX cranks with GXP external cups and 32-40T 1.X you should get it to work with some different spacers.
Post some photos. What frame do you have? 68mm or 73mm bb?


----------



## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

jojotherider said:


> ok, so i got the 32t installed. not going riding until sat though.
> 
> question: I got the chainring installed and it pedals forward ok, but if i pedal backwards at all, the chain comes off the rear gears. this only happens when i'm the easiest gear. it'll drop down to the harder gears. i'm guessing its just a tuning issue.
> 
> thoughts?


You mean the chain drops off of the front ring or changes on the cassette?

If its just "changing gears" on teh cassette when back pedalling, thats a property of the chain line and fairly "normal", well it happens on my bike sometimes too.

If it falls of the front, make a bash sand which or get a guide.


----------



## Ricci Chang (Jun 9, 2008)

Dame! Dame! That EVIL is beautiful! (I'd rather sleep with that bike than my wife.)

Thank you IVA. for posting more EVIL images, and solving the mystery. Absalon is riding Sram's XX groupo with 1x10 setup. Very sexy, too bad I can't afford! That CNC 10 speed cassette (11~36T) costs $328 us! I won't try 10 speed 'til more affordable gears available to average cyclists; not to mention Sram introduce new 120BCD standard for XX cranks. Chainring options is limited to only Sram XX's. F#@$%* it.

For those who want bigger rear gear/cog, Shimano's new 9 speed cassette (12~36T) is a much affordable option. Yeh, it weight about 100g more than XX, but is $300 dollars cheaper. 
I can live with that, and not to worry about compatibility ever.


----------



## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

Thanks RC. Well, at the moment only thing I _can_ do is sleep with it because rain is Biblical! I bet Noah would say: "Damn, that's a lot of rain!"


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

*Absalon chainguide.*



I.V.A. said:


> And the XCX seat tube mounting guide from e*13 is still a proto.


A close-up view:










I'm not quite sure what range of chainline adjustment this product is going to have. 1.5 mm doesn't look too impressive.


----------



## jojotherider (May 20, 2009)

essenmeinstuff said:


> You mean the chain drops off of the front ring or changes on the cassette?
> 
> If its just "changing gears" on teh cassette when back pedalling, thats a property of the chain line and fairly "normal", well it happens on my bike sometimes too.
> 
> If it falls of the front, make a bash sand which or get a guide.


thanks for the reply, yes its just changing gears on the cassette when back pedalling. It only happens on the easiest gear so not terribly worried about it. is there anything i can do to fix it? looking forward to riding with it tomorrow.


----------



## jojotherider (May 20, 2009)

so i got to ride with the 32t ring yesterday and it made a noticeable difference. A particular hill i always struggle on was much easier. I actually don't always make it up this hill, but yesterday i definitely had gas left inthe tank when i got to the top.

I think i need to tune up the shifting though. feels like shifting is not as clean and the chain wanders a little bit between some gears. no big deal though.


----------



## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

*Blur LT2 Carbon*

Blur LT2 Carbon with a 1x9 conversion using 28 or 30t Widgit depending on where I ride and a hybrid XTR/SLX 12-36t cassette


----------



## Guest (Nov 11, 2009)

OK, I'll play:


----------



## carbon pancreas (Sep 5, 2005)

sorry wrong spot


----------



## carbon pancreas (Sep 5, 2005)

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the responses.

My BB shell is 68mm and the lateral offset of the XX big ring being run in the traditional middle ring position is counterbalanced slightly by the chainrings being recessed.

I can see above however that absalon used spacers in between the chain ring and the spider, this would improve the chain line dramatically.

Back to the drawing board I guess, still can't source a 120 BCD ring less than 39 teeth!


----------



## jojotherider (May 20, 2009)

ChiliPepper1 said:


> OK, I'll play:
> ...cool looking bike...


what kind of bike is that?


----------



## Diver85 (Apr 6, 2009)

so i tried posting this question as a new thread but didn't get any hits...so i'll try it here since it's directed towards us 1by9ers. 

i was thinking about putting a bolt thu the top most part of my ngear jump stop to kind of over do it (so the can't jump off at all, kind of a poor mans chain guide). just wondering if anyone else has thought about this, or better yet, actually done it. post em if you got em!

i'm not having issues (in fact i don't even have the jump stop installed at the moment and i haven't dropped a chain yet)...i'm just bored/have idle hands and wanna see what anyone else has done. cheers.


----------



## ADDam (Jun 7, 2008)

IVA, that thing is GORGEOUS! :thumbsup:


----------



## Guest (Nov 20, 2009)

jojotherider said:


> what kind of bike is that?


Sorry it too a couple days before I saw this.....

It is a custom built IH Yakuza K. 8" rear travel and 7.5" fork travel gravity bike. Love it! Takes a beating and keeps flying.


----------



## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

ChiliPepper1 said:


> Sorry it too a couple days before I saw this.....
> 
> It is a custom built IH Yakuza K. 8" rear travel and 7.5" fork travel gravity bike. Love it! Takes a beating and keeps flying.


I thought the most travel the Shermans ever offered is 170mm or 180mm? Almost positive it never came in 190mm or 7.5"


----------



## Guest (Nov 20, 2009)

XSL_WiLL said:


> I thought the most travel the Shermans ever offered is 170mm or 180mm? Almost positive it never came in 190mm or 7.5"


Ooops, my bad. I meant to say 7" not 7.5". The funny thing, it is not a Sherman. Thanks anyway for the correction on the travel length though. :thumbsup:


----------



## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

ChiliPepper1 said:


> Ooops, my bad. I meant to say 7" not 7.5". The funny thing, it is not a Sherman. Thanks anyway for the correction on the travel length though. :thumbsup:


What is it? Looks like a Sherman Breakout to me... It's not a Stance as it has the anodized stanchions. And it's not a Travis either.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Diver85 said:


> so i tried posting this question as a new thread but didn't get any hits...so i'll try it here since it's directed towards us 1by9ers.
> 
> i was thinking about putting a bolt thu the top most part of my ngear jump stop to kind of over do it (so the can't jump off at all, kind of a poor mans chain guide). just wondering if anyone else has thought about this, or better yet, actually done it. post em if you got em!
> 
> i'm not having issues (in fact i don't even have the jump stop installed at the moment and i haven't dropped a chain yet)...i'm just bored/have idle hands and wanna see what anyone else has done. cheers.


A similar thing has been done with Rohloff Chainguide CC. In this setup, the guide frame (side plates and the rear cylinder) is removed, and 2 coins are used at both sides of the front cylindrical piece that goes above the chain.

I nave not had any Jump Stop experience, however. But here are another 2 options:

1. If you feel like spending some, look at the Paul chain keeper.

2. If, on the other hand, you want an extremely cheap, quick experimental solution that has good chances to work, you can dismember a rear light reflector. Yes, one of those red and black plastic devices that clamp around the seatpost to try and make you visible to the motorists. You use the clamp to attach it to the seat tube, and the protruding part goes over the chain. You cut off the reflector part, of course.

Hope this helps.


----------



## williamchan (Oct 16, 2007)

here's mine. I just bought my MRP X.1

running a 36 tooth front and 11-32back.









The very sad drivetrain.









The very lonely chain-ring









The oh-so-boring cranks


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

I came across this the other day and was wondering if anyone has tried it? I think I'm going to get one if they're still available=)

Far bottom, second from the right. It's called the "Single Chain Catcher"

http://www.acecosportgroup.com/content/products/


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

*Hmmmm...*



DFYFZX said:


> I came across this the other day and was wondering if anyone has tried it? I think I'm going to get one if they're still available=)
> 
> Far bottom, second from the right. It's called the "Single Chain Catcher"
> 
> http://www.acecosportgroup.com/content/products/


Interesting piece. It's somewhat similar in principle to the Rohloff based one that I'm running on my new old school street trials bike with 24T or 22T chainring. But it looks like this one is intended for cyclocross bikes with their large chainrings and narrow chainlines.


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

It's intended for cyclecross but looks like it would work fine on a MTB. Everyone's into that N-Gear thing but complain that it bends easily. Admittedly the AceCo costs 5 times as much but it looks like it's much more solid.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

I'd suggest to make do with that reflector hack for now, and wait until MRP and e13 release the seat tube mounted versions of their single front ring XC chain guides. )


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Do they have prototypes out or are you speculating? Everything MRP/e13 makes is hugely expensive and heavy:/ The AceCo is the nicest I've seen in production to this point, albeit a bit pricey, but if MRP/e13 has a design in the works I would be interested in seeing it! Any links???


----------



## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

ADDam said:


> IVA, that thing is GORGEOUS! :thumbsup:












Not any more. :devil:


----------



## ROTATN (Feb 5, 2009)

*1x9 vs 2x9*

Right hopefully someone can help me ASAP.

Have an 80km XC type race on the weekend which i am doing on my Nomad which is a little heavy.

My idea is to drop to a 1x9 setup and loose some weight. I currently have a 26-36 & 34-11. I ride the bulk in the 36 but getting tired i find myself using the 26.

The options i have been given is the 32x36-12 but i am concerned about the weight of the SLX cassette vs my XT 34-11.

How close would the 32-34 combo be to my granny 26-34 combo?

Have to do the change tomorrow so hopefully you gurus can help!


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

ROTATN said:


> Right hopefully someone can help me ASAP.
> 
> Have an 80km XC type race on the weekend which i am doing on my Nomad which is a little heavy.
> 
> ...


This page will let you compare the numbers of any gear ratios you can think of

It looks like 32x36 is equivalent to only losing the single lowest ratio of 26x34


----------



## noshortcuts (Nov 29, 2005)

*Ibis Tranny 1x9*


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Nice Tranny!!! I was SO close to building one of those but I'm still not completely sold on carbon:/ My new build is almost done and I will be posting pics as soon as it is. Still waiting on a few parts to show up...


----------



## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

My ghetto chain keeper (at least until the Paul Chain Keeper arrives). It works very well and the price was right... Heck my next version may incorporate a bottle opener!


----------



## jojotherider (May 20, 2009)

not gonna lie, its pretty ghetto. but hey, if it works it works.:thumbsup:


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 10, 2009)

*Decisions*

Okay, I've been reading this thread for about 12 hours now (off and on...) I just replaced my chain on my aging Rocky Mountain Element Team SC and the middle and granny gears are now not working with the new chain. So I rode my in just the big ring on a favorite local section. So then I was thinking, why do I have all those other gears. It seemed like a lot of the thread was downhillers and hence the need for the bash ring and chain stop. What about XC riders out there? If it's needed it seems that the two options are a Paul Components Chainkeeper and no bash guard, or a lightweight bashguard and an N-Gear Jump stop. Also torn between a 34 and 36t front. Any suggestions and pictures would be appreciated. I'm a 6'1", 165 pound 2 hour Iceman rider. Most of the hills that I ride can be ridden in the middle ring and granny, I think I use granny granny combo as a crutch and could really ride it in the middle. Thanks. Great thread.


----------



## hssp (Aug 28, 2007)

How about MRP 1.X or e.13 XCX for XC use as chain guide. I would recommend those over a Jump Stop on an FS.


----------



## MonkeyBizznaz (Oct 30, 2007)

What are people using for chainrings with their m950 XTR crank? I'm using the 36t with the 5 arm spider and I toss the chain constantly. Getting a MRP 1.x tomorrow, but wondeirng if I should looking into different chainrings....


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 10, 2009)

I just had my bike shop throw on a used 36t to try it, (running old Race Face Next 5 spoke 94mm cranks) we took a link out of the chain. I'm heading up to Big M todayy to give it a whirl for the first off road test. No chain keeper yet, we'll see if it gets added to my Christmas list.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

MonkeyBizznaz said:


> What are people using for chainrings with their m950 XTR crank? I'm using the 36t with the 5 arm spider and I toss the chain constantly. Getting a MRP 1.x tomorrow, but wondeirng if I should looking into different chainrings....


1. If your 36T chainring is ramped, then definitely try a non-ramped one. Surly, for instance. Since it's a 36 and a 5-bolt, Widgit is out of consideration.
2. Make sure your chain length is correct (that is, not too long).
3. The shortest possible cage derailer with a strong tension spring also helps.
4. Top chain cage (or similar device) is mandatory and there are good chances that it will fix the problem all by itself.

If you check all the above and chain still goes off, then try and fit a complete single ring chain guide (one with bottom roller AND an effective top cage).

That's it.
Of course things become more complicated if you have to run non-standard chainline. M950 may be a case of this.. /summons google/

PS
Hmm. Sheldon Brown quotes 47.5-50 mm chainline for M950 crankset, depending on BB choice. MRP 1.X chainline is adjustable for 49 or 50 mm. Additionally, you may have a fitment issue with your BB cup. 1.X is a modern device that is mostly designed to fit external BB systems.

So, in the worst case, you may be forced to either seek an E-type BB that would provide 49 or 50 mm chainline with M950, or need a complete modern crankset. In the latter case, SLX would do just fine, and there's one that comes with bash guard and a ramped 36T ring. But then you'll be going to choose between 1.X and the bash guard.

See, It's not always simple even without the front derailer. )


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

I would suggest going with the Paul Chain Keeper as it doesn't require an changes to the BB.

Also, a 36t steel Surly ring is going to be very heavy. I use a Salsa 36t aluminum ring and it holds up great for SSing. Blackspire's ring is probably just as good.


----------



## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

boomn said:


> I would suggest going with the Paul Chain Keeper as it doesn't require an changes to the BB.
> 
> Also, a 36t steel Surly ring is going to be very heavy. I use a Salsa 36t aluminum ring and it holds up great for SSing. Blackspire's ring is probably just as good.


Speaking of Pauls Chain Keeper, here is a little write up I did on a different forum...

I replaced the ghetto chain keeper with a fancier one and gained about 50 grams in the process... Cost is around $52 before shipping (total was $60 shipped)... Test rides tomorrow... It took about 5 minutes to set it up so it clears the crank arms, and there is no chain rub in the large or small cogs...
Ghetto Dinoso Chain Keeper (the GDCK)









Paul's version









A spiderless setup would've been ideal to clear the the crank arms...









There should be plenty of overlap to prevent the chain jumping to the inside or outside from the top. No guarantees about the bottom derail however...

















Clearing chain on the big and small cog...


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

A little chunky but a clean device anyway.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

I like the looks of this new cross-style chain catcher from K-Edge.










This would work with a bashring better than the Paul's. I'm a little surprised at the price though. The Paul's looks like a better quality piece.

Buy here: https://www.acecosportgroup.com/content/products/


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

Indiefab said:


> I like the looks of this new cross-style chain catcher from K-Edge.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What is the weight on this system? I dont see how anything else could beat Paul's Chain Keeper at 60g


----------



## Lambdamaster (Nov 5, 2008)

Killroy said:


> I dont see how anything else could beat Paul's Chain Keeper at 60g


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

Lambdamaster said:


>


MRP vs Pauls

Cost - Wash
Weight -Wash
MRP might guide smoother and better

MRP Negatives:
- Not recommended with 2004-2006 XTR M-960 Cranks (I have). 
- Not compatible with Truvativ Noir and Stylo cranks when used on a 73mm BB shell. 
- Makes already bad chainline for 73mm BB shells worse
- Not compatible with BB-30 crank/bb setups.


----------



## Lambdamaster (Nov 5, 2008)

Killroy said:


> MRP vs Pauls
> 
> Cost - Wash
> Weight -Wash
> ...


how does it make a chainline worse?? you aren't moving the BB cups


----------



## noshortcuts (Nov 29, 2005)

*Light Weight chain keepers*

This Widget is 110 grams which includes the 32T Ring and bolts.









For more information: http://www.widgit.com.au/index.html


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

Lambdamaster said:


> how does it make a chainline worse?? you aren't moving the BB cups


The bracket moves out the chainline by the thickness of the bracket on a 73mm shell.


----------



## MonkeyBizznaz (Oct 30, 2007)

boomn said:


> I would suggest going with the Paul Chain Keeper as it doesn't require an changes to the BB.
> 
> Also, a 36t steel Surly ring is going to be very heavy. I use a Salsa 36t aluminum ring and it holds up great for SSing. Blackspire's ring is probably just as good.


Unfortunately the bike is a Sinister Simon Bar...and the seat tube is ovalized so no can do on the pauls. Gotta go with something BB mounted.

Damn my old XTR fetish! This is never easy eh? We'll see tomorrow how well it works with the mrp, hopefully it will!


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

noshortcuts said:


> This Widget is 110 grams which includes the 32T Ring and bolts.
> 
> View attachment 501531
> 
> ...


I remember this. It looks light, it looks clean, but 32 tooth max is to slow for CX Racing EVEN on a 29er!

$139 for the total system
$110 for chairing replacement -WOW


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Killroy said:


> The bracket moves out the chainline by the thickness of the bracket on a 73mm shell.


That should never be the case. You should only use the MRP (or similar BB mounted guide) if you already had at least one spacer on the drive side, in which case it replaces the spacer and doesn't change the chainline at all.


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

boomn said:


> That should never be the case. You should only use the MRP (or similar BB mounted guide) if you already had at least one spacer on the drive side, in which case it replaces the spacer and doesn't change the chainline at all.


On a 1X9, 73mm BB shell, the spacer can be run on the non-drive side to move the chain line inboard to the middle of the cassette to minimize cross chaining.

I'm still setting up my first integrated spindle crank, so I have yet to fully implement it, so I could be wrong. When I measured the last crank install it seemed like the spacer on the drive side offset the petals to the right. I always assumed it was perfectly centered.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Killroy said:


> On a 1X9, 73mm BB shell, the spacer can be run on the non-drive side to move the chain line inboard to the middle of the cassette to minimize cross chaining.
> 
> I'm still setting up my first integrated spindle crank, so I have yet to fully implement it, so I could be wrong. When I measured the last crank install it seemed like the spacer on the drive side offset the petals to the right. I always assumed it was perfectly centered.


Yep I was assuming that you always want to have the cranks centered. You could theoretically switch the spacer to the NDS but I don't like the idea of not having the pedals even distances from the frame.

Shimano, Race, and FSA cranks are properly centered on a 73mm shell with 1 drive side spacer


----------



## Lambdamaster (Nov 5, 2008)

yeah.. I was under the impression the bracket replaces the 2.5mm spacer on the drive side


----------



## Dan Gerous (Feb 18, 2004)

In a few days/weeks, MRP will have two seat tube clamped X.1 versions (MTB with a 49-50 chainline, CX with around a 42 chainline) and a Direct Mount X.1.... for those with different BB's, cranksets, frames... I'm waiting for one.


----------



## MJ1 (Jun 11, 2004)

*XCX or 1.x*

Anybody have any special insight into which BB mounted chainguide is the "best"? They look very similar to me but I have not seen either in person.


----------



## Dan Gerous (Feb 18, 2004)

I think both should work fine, it's not rocket science. I'd rather give my money to MRP though, they did it first, they have good customer service and my experience with E*13 hasn't been too good, I had one of their Supercharger bash ring snap in no time... That's just me.


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

Dan Gerous said:


> In a few days/weeks, MRP will have two seat tube clamped X.1 versions (MTB with a 49-50 chainline, CX with around a 42 chainline) and a Direct Mount X.1.... for those with different BB's, cranksets, frames... I'm waiting for one.


This looks cool. I bet its lighter than the BB bracket type and Paul's.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Killroy said:


> What is the weight on this system? I dont see how anything else could beat Paul's Chain Keeper at 60g


I'm running a custom 34 g chainguide on my titanium play bike.

It's a bastardized Rohloff Chainguide CC, but the cage is K-Edge style, so it's intended for bashguard. There are 2 alu and 2 ti bolts, instead of stock steel ones. The ghetto part is the cage itself - it's a piece of L-shaped, thin wall aluminum beam I had found in one of my toolboxes.

The device is compatible with 22T, 24T and 32T rings. A 36T would also be okay I guess. But I have to use 128 mm BB axle to get enough chainline to fit the device over a granny ring.

Looks like the more ghetto you go with those guides, the less they weigh. )


----------



## seppk (Apr 29, 2009)

hello, could someone please explain to me how using a BB mounted MRP or e13 chainguide will affect the bottom bracket and the chainline. Is it as simple as having the chainguide BB mount in place of the BB spacer or is it more complex? I have XTR cranks and they are the newer version (not the version that was not recommended by MRP) My tooth range would be from 32-36 here in colorado. Does that affect the chainline any? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

seppk said:


> Is it as simple as having the chainguide BB mount in place of the BB spacer?


Yep


----------



## seppk (Apr 29, 2009)

thanks


----------



## capn 35 (Oct 19, 2007)

Here are a few shots of the 1x9 setup that I'm running on my '08 HiFi Carbon Pro. I designed and built the data for the inner and outer rings using Alias software. After building a few prototypes and working out the bugs, I had the final pieces CNC'd from aluminum. They aren't light, at 168gr for the set, but they are overbuilt and very strong. I designed them to work specifically with the XTR crankset. It would be very easy to design some very lightweight pieces, or even have this design cast from something lighter. I still have to change out the RD for a short cage version - still running the stock X-0 that came on the bike.

capn


From Gary Fishers 2008


From Gary Fishers 2008


From Gary Fishers 2008


----------



## SuperJETT (May 28, 2008)

I think this is a fairly common setup, so that's what I went with to minimize/hopefully stop my chain drops. BBG bashguard/N-Gear Jump Stop.


----------



## zaskaranddriver (Oct 14, 2009)

Nice work capn! Looks pro.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

capn 35, do you plan to manufacture these for some ebay sales?
It looks like a serious factory made item.

Can the device be installed with any non-ramped 32T chainring?


----------



## PepperJester (Jan 2, 2003)

my 1x9 Ala Carte


----------



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Is this thing on?


----------



## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

SteveUK said:


> Is this thing on?


yes


----------



## SuperJETT (May 28, 2008)

finger51 said:


> good to know. Not too happy with the way my XT shifter sits next to my Avid lever. maybe it'll get replaced some day.
> 
> Here's my 1x9 29'r in progress:


test


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

I custom made my own chain guide but I've never posted pics on here before. Is the Photobucket with a the link copy/pasted the easiest way or is there an easier way?


----------



## osmarandsara (Jun 26, 2006)

Gripo said:


> Currently running one of these "Widgits"> https://www.widgit.com.au/index.html in a 28T (30T also available) with a hybrid XTR-Deore 12-36t Casette.
> 
> The Widgit guide mounts to the granny tabs and the chainring offset hence it's placed between the granny and the middle ring positions allowing a better chainline for 1x9.
> 
> ...


Okay, this is the answer to my prayers.........28T or 30T or 32T.........I wonder how much it costs to ship from Australia to California :eekster:

$139 Australian is about $127 US.......


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

It's just SO expensive! It's a great design other than the price...


----------



## mlloyd007 (Dec 7, 2009)

You guys think I'll be OK on a HT without some type of chainkeeper if I run an 11-30 cluster, short-cage RD and a SS 32t chainring? If not, is something like the K-Edge Single Chain Catcher (inside and top guide) sufficient, or is a ring guard (outside guide) needed as well?

I'm putting together a nice, light HT build, and trying to get a system that is elegant and matches the build quality, so $ is not an issue. Thanks!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

mlloyd007, yours might be a case for a 30T Widgit. Unless you really need 32T.
Are you going to run 1x8?
Consider MRP 1.Х.. and stay tuned for seat tube mounted MRP cage.


----------



## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

an inner/outer bash ring works very well also.


----------



## mlloyd007 (Dec 7, 2009)

J. Random Psycho said:


> mlloyd007, yours might be a case for a 30T Widgit. Unless you really need 32T.
> Are you going to run 1x8?
> Consider MRP 1.Х.. and stay tuned for seat tube mounted MRP cage.


What is a 30t Widgit? I'm getting a 9-speed 11-30 cassette, and might just take out the 12 tooth cog to make the cog spacing more consistent (11, 13, 15, etc.), and to reduce the chainline deflection in the smaller cogs.

I've seen the MRP, and it looks very functional, but I just don't like the aesthetics. I'm coming from a "less is more" SS perspective.


----------



## Dan Gerous (Feb 18, 2004)

The X.1 looks slicker than a bashring on one side of the ring and a jump-stop or the likes on the other side IMO. The black doesn't yell 'look at me I'm a chainguide!' as much as the white one...


----------



## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

ROTATN said:


> Right hopefully someone can help me ASAP.
> 
> Have an 80km XC type race on the weekend which i am doing on my Nomad which is a little heavy.
> 
> ...


where are you seeing this 12-36 cassette?!


----------



## Dan Gerous (Feb 18, 2004)

essenmeinstuff said:


> where are you seeing this 12-36 cassette?!


It's available pretty much everywhere now, like here for exemple...


----------



## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

thats crazy, I can't find it under SLX or Deore on the shimano site... SLX is HG80, deore HG61.

I could also having an epic fail at the internet day...  

How heavy is that, and are there any clearance issues with eg x9 dérailleurs?


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

http://www.blueskycycling.com/product5624_33_-Shimano-SLX-HG61-Cassette.htm

I'm curious if it will work with an X0 short cage??? Anyone try it? I run a 34T right now with no issues whatsoever...


----------



## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

DFYFZX said:


> http://www.blueskycycling.com/product5624_33_-Shimano-SLX-HG61-Cassette.htm
> 
> I'm curious if it will work with an X0 short cage??? Anyone try it? I run a 34T right now with no issues whatsoever...


they only go up to 34 there...


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

You are correct sir! I searched some more and the only place I saw them was Chain Reaction, out of stock, and Universal Cycles.


----------



## capn 35 (Oct 19, 2007)

zaskaranddriver said:


> Nice work capn! Looks pro.


Thanks, I appreciate it! My intent was to make it appear as integrated as possible.

capn


----------



## capn 35 (Oct 19, 2007)

J. Random Psycho said:


> capn 35, do you plan to manufacture these for some ebay sales?
> It looks like a serious factory made item.
> 
> Can the device be installed with any non-ramped 32T chainring?


Thanks for the comments! Sorry about the delay in my response - I haven't been able to access this thread for a while now. It seems as though everything is sorted out though.

Yes, you can use a non-ramped 32t chainring with this. On many bikes the use of the inner chainring would be impossible due to chainstay clearance issues. As it is, I only have about 3mm of clearance on my bike. The inner ring could easily be replaced with the use of a jump-stop or other method in such instances.

I had considered the possibility of making these things to sell in some quantity, but due to the cost of having this one made I don't know if it would work out. Of course, if there were enough interest, I could get the costs lower considering a larger order. In addition, there may be other ways of manufacturing these parts that are more cost effective. Perhaps a plastic version could fit most people's needs while also saving some weight.

capn


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

capn 35,

it looks like the inner guard is more important. There must be a reason why we don't see too many sandwich setups around.

The outer piece can be any 3rd party bashguard which meets the user's needs (be it a lightweight chain drop guard or an actual tough ring you bash against stuff). Thus, the inner guard need not be very strong - it "merely" should keep the chain from dropping inboard, and not rub on it.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

J. Random Psycho said:


> There must be a reason why we don't see too many sandwich setups around.


They don't seem to fit on most bikes out there. You need _a lot_ of clearance to fit a guard larger than a 32t ring in the granny position unless you move the chainline way out there (which is counter productive for a 1x9 anyway)

My Inbred has great clearance between the rings and chainstay with a normal setup, but I was not able to fit an inner guard


----------



## capn 35 (Oct 19, 2007)

J. Random Psycho said:


> capn 35,
> 
> it looks like the inner guard is more important. There must be a reason why we don't see too many sandwich setups around.
> 
> The outer piece can be any 3rd party bashguard which meets the user's needs (be it a lightweight chain drop guard or an actual tough ring you bash against stuff). Thus, the inner guard need not be very strong - it "merely" should keep the chain from dropping inboard, and not rub on it.


You are correct. While I was dropping chains on both sides, dropping to the inside was more common. I think that the biggest reason we don't see more sandwich style units is clearance to the chainstay - especially when running a setup that is larger than 32t. The
HiFi just happens to be one of those bikes that allows for an inner guard while still maintaining some useful clearance. The Inner guard that I designed could be easily be substituted with a piece of sheet stock aluminum that would be very light while still doing its job - but that just doesn't look as cool 

capn


----------



## DeltaNu1142 (Jan 3, 2010)

Just finished mine up last week, a 2009 Specialized Rockhopper Single-Speed Disc, converted to 1x9 with SRAM components:

new Specialized dropout w/hanger
X9 gripshift
X9 med-cage derailleur
11-34 cassette

Chainwheel is the stock 32T on a Truativ crankset with some sort of integrated bashguard. I thought for a while I'd go up in the front to 34T or higher (no hills here in FL), but after riding this weekend I think I'll keep it as is.

No plans yet to add a jump stop or anything... if I have any problems, I'll come up with something. Photos below (garage light went out this morning):


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Better start saving your pennies, boys and girls.

Introducing the SRAM XG999 cassette.
Only 175g in 11-32.
Cost: $300!!
And not available in 11-34.
But it sure is pretty.

http://www.cyclingnews.com/news/sram-announce-new-xg999-cassette


----------



## awareham83 (May 14, 2007)

1X9 is sick! I built this bike about a month ago and it seems to work out pretty nice.


----------



## cifex (Sep 11, 2009)

Indiefab said:


> Better start saving your pennies, boys and girls.
> 
> Introducing the SRAM XG999 cassette.
> Only 175g in 11-32.
> ...


You'd drop $300 to save 50 grams? SRAM PG-850 for $25 is only 220 grams.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

cifex said:


> You'd drop $300 to save 50 grams? SRAM PG-850 for $25 is only 220 grams.


Thats 220g for a 12-23 road cassette. The closest PG-850 they make (11-30) is 310g, and the equivalent 9spd version (PG-950, 11-32t) is 380g.

For a real comparison of how light the XG-999 cassette is, SRAM's next best 9spd PG-990 11-32t cassette weighs 275g. So really you're paying $200 to save 100g, which is still a lot of course


----------



## cifex (Sep 11, 2009)

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/12911-065_SRA854-3-Parts-51-Cassettes/Sram-PG-850-8-Speed-Cassette-2009.htm

Says 11-32. Typo?


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

cifex said:


> http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/12911-065_SRA854-3-Parts-51-Cassettes/Sram-PG-850-8-Speed-Cassette-2009.htm
> 
> Says 11-32. Typo?


Yep, typo. Here is a more accurate page


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

cifex said:


> You'd drop $300 to save 50 grams? SRAM PG-850 for $25 is only 220 grams.


I only said it was pretty and expensive. I'll wait for the price to drop like it did for the 990, although it is starting a lot higher. Still, I think I'd pay $150 for it, if it was 11-34T.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Yeah, $150 tops, for 11-34 or 12-34.


----------



## palmix (Jan 31, 2004)

Hello, I own three bikes with 1x9 transmision.

My Chain Guides:

The first is a "coarse" one for my urban bicycle, anyway it works well..










The second is the Rohloff unmodified (weigh 65 gr.)










And the last is just finished today for my new ride (Merlin Titanium very very light: about 7,300 kg or 16 lb.)




























Regards. :thumbsup:


----------



## Roadsters (Jul 7, 2008)

Here's my 2000 Breezer Lightning, which I built up with 110-gram Alpha Q carbon bars, an American Classic 12-25 aluminum cassette, Avid CNC levers and V-brakes, an Avid SAAGO stem, polished Dura-Ace cranks with a 39-tooth Ritchey chainring, 2.2-inch Continental Race King Supersonic 470-gram tires on Mavic 717 rims, and a Ritchey WCS headset and seatpost. Set up this way it's very responsive, and it weighs in at just under 21 pounds.

Since riding a bike like this calls for more finesse and time spent out of the saddle, it gives you a good workout. After a fast blast through some hilly trails, you feel like you just did something.


----------



## Dan Gerous (Feb 18, 2004)

The Race Kings look huge next to the frame's small tubing... Pretty nice!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

palmix, that looks good. What was the clamp's original purpose?


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

Roadsters said:


> Here's my 2000 Breezer Lightning


oh man that is a pretty whip there! Even though it's not 'stock', I really like the single ring crank- so clean.


----------



## Roadsters (Jul 7, 2008)

Thanks for the compliments on the Breezer. It's the bike I always wanted.

Here's my other one-by-nine, a 22-pound 2000 Klein Adroit Pro that's set up for trails and the road:



















On this one I used Campagnolo Record cranks, with a 39-tooth chainring and an 11-32 SRAM nine-speed cassette.


----------



## palmix (Jan 31, 2004)

J. Random Psycho said:


> palmix, that looks good. What was the clamp's original purpose?


for front derailleur.


----------



## casnell (Jul 25, 2009)

My ARC 1x9 , I love it !

Race Face Deus crankset, XT 11-34 cassette, Saint short-cage, Saint shifter.


----------



## Restoman (Feb 21, 2009)

MOAR!!!!! 

okay a legit question. I've got the new slx cranks. Is there a 30 tooth straight cut middle ring I can purchase? Also, where do you get the new ring bolts that are narrower?


----------



## Restoman (Feb 21, 2009)

Nevermind. Extralite is the answer. I don't know though, maybe the 32 will be enough when a pound has been removed.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Restoman, also take a look at Widgit. It's chainring and sandwich type chainguard combined.


----------



## casnell (Jul 25, 2009)

Restoman said:


> Nevermind. Extralite is the answer. I don't know though, maybe the 32 will be enough when a pound has been removed.


I've found the 32 good so far.


----------



## isleblue65 (Sep 5, 2009)

Here's mine. I just got the short chainring bolts today and put it together tonight with a 32T, BBG ultralight bash guard and home brew inner chain guard made from a reflector mount.

The bike is a 21" frame Ti 29er and weighs 23.0 lbs after losing the shifter, derailleur and 2 rings. Can't wait to get out and ride tomorrow.


----------



## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

My 98ish killer V 900. 
Off top of my head. 70mm headshok
nashbar riser bars
xtr960 sti lever/ shifter for rear
shimano hydraulic fr brake
xtr rear 8 spd der
8 spd SRAM cassette
xt760 crank 
bbg inner and outer chainguards
32t xt chainring

roughly 24lbs


----------



## evobda2 (Dec 4, 2008)

Setup on my 4x bike.. currently 1x9 until i change it to 1x4.
Doing a similar setup on my XC Commencal Meta 4.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

This horse has got some new legs










Got some lightly used Noir cranks off Ebay. These with a Team GXP external BB drops 3/4 of a pound compared to my previous combination of a Hussefelt crank with a Crank Bros Cobalt ISIS BB.










Also, thanks to everyone who has made this thread so great over the past 4 years. I can't believe this has 11 pages, hundreds of photos, over 1000 posts and is by far the largest thread in the drivetrain forum. Its fitting that J Random Psycho posted the 1000th message since he has posted 35 times on this thread alone.
Thanks again
Ryan


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Indiefab, it's just that local terrain allows folks to get away with 1xN, so I build all my bikes like that. I also spread 1xN propaganda on the local cycling forum, but few listen - lots of guys are into long range touring and XC racing here. )

Impressive weight loss with that Noir, by the way!
Although you may want to mount something tiny on there to prevent chain falling off inboard.


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

My "ghetto" setup  Middleburn RS8 cranks with 5 bolt spider, 30T ring, MRP 32T bashring, home made inner guide made from an FSA front der. mount and "Made in China" quick release seatpost lever  Any questions???


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

DFYFZX said:


> Any questions???


1. Flat pedals?!
2. How do you like RS8 cranks?


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

RS8 cranks rock  I do wish I could use an external bottom bracket but frankly I haven't any issues with the ISIS just yet.

Flat pedals? Personal preference I guess. Grew up riding BMX and have never tried the clippy pedals...


----------



## The Thug (Nov 16, 2006)

I've ordered the E13 XCX chainguide and will be converting my Scandal 29er using this crank.



Will post some pics once completed.


----------



## dontheclysdale (Mar 12, 2008)

I've been running 2x9 on my Turner for awhile with no probs. I never drop to the granny ring so I decided to go to 1x9 for my new race bike I'm putting together. I'm glad I read this thread. When I made the decision to go 1x9 I had no intentions of using a guide and really hadn't given it much thought. Then I read this thread and started getting worried about my decision. This weekend during a race I watched the guy in front of me (who was leading) go down in a turn. When he got back up and jumped on the bike his chain had fallen off and we all went on around him. It was a short race format and he had no chance to catch us after that. I made a mental note of that and ordered a chain guide for my new bike... Had I not seen this thread I might have experienced a similar problem. 

While I guess going without a guide can save a little weight on my race bike, a lost chain can send me home early.


----------



## misterdangerpants (Oct 10, 2007)

Okay, it's a 1x8 but close enough, right?!


----------



## hilldown (Feb 5, 2009)




----------



## hairtux (Oct 18, 2009)

All of this stuff is incredibly awesome. Because of this thread and my experiences of never using my small and large chainrings, I want to convert to 1x9. However, because I'm convinced I'm not as mechanically inclined as most of the posters here, nor do I have all the proper tools, it seems like I would have to have my LBS do the conversion for me.

I do plan to talk to my LBS first, but I was wondering if I could get some thoughts on my conversion? The bike is an 07 Kona King Kikapu. I plan to keep the crank and just remove the small and large chainrings. Although perhaps I should also get a SS chainring considering I don't have the tools to do it myself if I want to in the future? 

Anyway, after doing a lot of reading here, I think the best and most reliable solution for heavy riding seems to be something like the MRP Minis as opposed to a jump guard/bashring combo. I want the solution that leads to the least chain drops and assorted hassle and that seems to be the best, though also more expensive. Does that sound about right?

Related question though. The MRP site talks about mounting standards - how the hell do I figure out what mine is? 

Thanks all.


----------



## hairtux (Oct 18, 2009)

I just re-read this entire thread and I now have more questions then ever, bah! But my desire to make this conversion is even greater, so it all works out. 

I noticed a few posts here and there about how the jump stop might not be the best solution for a FS, which is what I'm riding, so that's out? I mentioned the MRP before but I realized I should probably take it slow here and I would rather go with a less expensive solution first, to test the waters, instead of the more expensive MRP solution. With that in mind, I know now the only definite purchase I want to make is a SS chainring (32T so it's the same as what I use all the time). Any suggestions on chain guides for my ride?


----------



## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

IMO the easiest and cheapest, esp if you have a bash guard already, get an inner guide plate, bolts in place of the granny ring, don't need a guide or anything.

I've been running this set up for years on both trail and DH bikes, never ever had a problem!

I like the look of chain guides, so I made a pact, if I ever even once drop my chain on the front doing anything, then that is the only excuse I need to get a chain guide... I still don't have one after over 4 years... no chain guide for me.

I am going to try extra hard this summer though!


----------



## wankel (Mar 7, 2004)

essenmeinstuff said:


> IMO the easiest and cheapest, esp if you have a bash guard already, get an inner guide plate, bolts in place of the granny ring, don't need a guide or anything.


I agree. And that is exactly what I'll be trying out this season. A BBG inner guide ring is only $12, so no big loss if it doesn't work out. I also purchased a 30T chainring from Andersen Machining.


----------



## hairtux (Oct 18, 2009)

Thanks for the info - that would be the ideal solution I think. Clearance for an inner guard looks tight but I hope it'll fit. 

I'm also slowly learning more about my cranks and BB. Thanks to the LBS and a quick email back from the dudes at Race Face, my cranks are ISIS and my BB is an external mount. Now I know what I need if I ever go the chain guide route.

I'm pretty excited - I think I'll check to ensure I have enough clearance for the inner guard and if so, build me a sandwich!


----------



## alex(K) (Jun 27, 2008)

*Surly's Mr. whirly vs. Middleburn crankset*

I am thinking about going 1x9, and think a single speed front ring is the way to go...
any opinions on Mr. Whirly and Middleburn in a celebrity deathmatch?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

The only thing I've got against Middleburn (and it's a big thing) is the ISIS interface. YMMV, of course.
And if you feel like going square taper, Middleburns are hard to beat. Uno chainrings are especially attractive.

If you like an external BB more, take another hard look at Shimano offerings, especially the SLX double crankset.

I have not yet had any experience with Mr. Whirly cranks.


----------



## Affe (Dec 4, 2007)

J. Random Psycho said:


> The only thing I've got against Middleburn (and it's a big thing) is the ISIS interface. YMMV, of course.
> And if you feel like going square taper, Middleburns are hard to beat. Uno chainrings are especially attractive.
> 
> If you like an external BB more, take another hard look at Shimano offerings, especially the SLX double crankset.
> ...


My local Middleburn dealer told me their bringing out an external BB model with lots of new ano colors this spring. I surely hope so cos that's what I'm waiting for...


----------



## The Thug (Nov 16, 2006)

Have finally converted my 29er Scandal.

Running a 32 chainring with a 11-32 XT cassette but might change it to a 34 chainring.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Affe, wooooooow, that's super good news!

(I queried on the Middleburn site some 2 or 3 years ago about their external BB plans, and got no response. Then I even went as far as to think that they are on their way out...)


----------



## jgerhardt (Aug 31, 2009)

*1995 Stumpjumper M2 Fs 1x9*

Just recently I have switched it to a 1x9.
Ever since I got the bike I have always had a hard time getting the front derailleur to shift to the granny so I figured why fight it and just get rid of it instead.
To make up for the lack of granny I switched the rear cassette from 11-28 to 11-34.
'09 Sram X9 Short cage Derailleur
'09 X0 Shifter
BBG superlight bashgaurd


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Okay. Sea Otter. All the component companies are going to reveal their cool bits that weren't ready for interbike last year.

Surely, MRP or e13 will come out with new versions of their 1.x and XCX chainwatchers that will clamp to a seat tube. Couldn't be more obvious and simple, right?

So here is what MRP shows.










What the f---- is that?
Who has a frame with a bolt for direct mount shimano derailleurs? How easy would it have been to put a stupid clamp on that instead? 
Jesus. I give up.
I'm ordering a Paul's on Monday.


----------



## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

Shut up.


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Indiefab said:


> Okay. Sea Otter. All the component companies are going to reveal their cool bits that weren't ready for interbike last year.
> 
> Surely, MRP or e13 will come out with new versions of their 1.x and XCX chainwatchers that will clamp to a seat tube. Couldn't be more obvious and simple, right?
> 
> ...


A bolt on mount for a front mount der. costs like $10. Sounds like an even more universal idea than a seat mount only version because a LOT of carbon frames out there use direct mount front der. these days


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

DFYFZX said:


> A bolt on mount for a front mount der. costs like $10. Sounds like an even more universal idea than a seat mount only version because a LOT of carbon frames out there use direct mount front der. these days


All those bolt-on clamps are for braze-on derailleurs. 
Here is what one looks like.









Using a braze-on adapter would require turning it upside-down and backwards. Then you have to find some sort of curved nut for the bolt to thread into. Doesn't seem like a logical solution, but I'd be happy to see pictures of where this has been done.

DFYFZX did post this here earlier










Making this work as a direct mount would require rotating it back (clockwise). That would be a cobbled together mess, at best.

I've searched for direct mount adapters. Doesn't exist on the web, therefore it must not exist. :thumbsup:


----------



## Dan Gerous (Feb 18, 2004)

Indiefab said:


> Okay. Sea Otter. All the component companies are going to reveal their cool bits that weren't ready for interbike last year.
> 
> Surely, MRP or e13 will come out with new versions of their 1.x and XCX chainwatchers that will clamp to a seat tube. Couldn't be more obvious and simple, right?
> 
> ...


Take a deep breath, relax...

MRP announced a clamp-on AND a Direct Mount versions late last year, both, plus a clamp-on CX version for the smaller road cranks chainline of cyclocross bikes. Showing this one doesn't mean they ditched the clamp-on version, they didn't (I even have one from the first batch reserved). And more and more manufacturers are starting to put Direct Mount on their frame...


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

I appreciate the info, Dan.

Love the blog, too. Very cool.


----------



## eliflap (Dec 13, 2007)

somebody using a 11-36T as cassette ?

a Sram Red rear der can work with it in a 1 x 10 set up ?


----------



## Dan Gerous (Feb 18, 2004)

eliflap said:


> somebody using a 11-36T as cassette ?
> 
> a Sram Red rear der can work with it in a 1 x 10 set up ?


Eliflap, I have a XX 11-36 cassette, XX rear derailleur, XX rear shifter, 1x10 setup on my Scalpel. The wider range of the 11-36 is great for a 1x10... The Red derailleur could work, but not with a 11-36, the biggest cog it will take officially is a 28T rear... the 10 speed mountain stuff from SRAM have the same cable pull ratios and the cassettes have the smae spacing as their road stuff so you can mix and match shifters, derailleurs but road derailleurs (except the new Apex) can't handle too big cassettes.


----------



## eliflap (Dec 13, 2007)

i want to run:

XX11-36 cassette

shifter for flat bar double tap 2 x 10 , only right shifter

and for rear ... i thought red

but i need an XX .... i guess ...


----------



## Dan Gerous (Feb 18, 2004)

eliflap said:


> i want to run:
> 
> XX11-36 cassette
> 
> ...


Yes, XX or new X.0, X.9 10 speed... or maybe get a custom derailleur hanger to allow the Red to clear the bigger cogs, that's how the Di2 Flash at Sea Otter managed to use a Di2 derailleur to work with the XX cassette. I have the link to the shop that makes (and sells) the custom hanger on that Flash on my blog...


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Please e13, we want to buy this.


----------



## Dan Gerous (Feb 18, 2004)

Indiefab said:


> Please e13, we want to buy this.


Looks nice.

The MRP X.1 guide has been re-molded, looks less chunky, lighter and hopefully it will finally be available soon, season has started! Here is the direct mount version, I have not seen the last version of the clamp-on yet.










In the meantime, here's my ghetto looking solution using a modified 12 years old XT derailleur:


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

I'd love to pick up one of these K-Edge cross chain catchers. Looks to be perfect for a 1x9, but $65 is a bit steep. Still a nice option.


----------



## indra saya (May 9, 2010)

I never thouhgt I'll find this thread, I also never think before that many people likes 1X?? setup, I was minority in my country (Indonesia) for this kind of setup, its glad to find people who also like this setup, (FD sucks)


----------



## jmadams13 (Sep 28, 2008)

Sorry for crap pic, stupid camera

1x9 on new build. Not first foray into the 1x9 world, but still a great setup.

34T Gamut RaceRing. Nice BIG teeth. N-gear with no bash. Never had a chain drop on the outside, as I set my chainline for the 2nd to highest gear. Sram x9 RD, XT 12-34T cassette, X.0 twister. Chain is 34T / 34T add ONE link, not two. Never issues, years of ringing same setup.


----------



## c_kyle (Sep 2, 2005)

I finished my first 1x9 ride yesterday. It was great.

I'm running Ritchey WCS crank arms w/ E.thirteen 34t guide ring and MRP 1.X chainguide, with the previously installed SRAM X.9 rear derailleur and shifter.

I dropped 2 lbs off the NRS with the removal of the front shifting, changing out the crankset, and adding a new saddle.

I'll try to get some pic up here.


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

KCNC K-Type XC2 94BCD 2x9 Crankset with big ring removed. Started out at 698gr as 42-29T but the big ring weighed 75gr so total installed weight with just the 29T sprocket was 623gr:thumbsup:

I wanted more gear range so the 94BCD works better for me. Middleburn, and a few other companies, make a wide selection of 94BCD chainrings so I decided to try it out. I'm running an XTR cassette with 12-34 gearing. As soon as someone makes a reasonably priced 11-36 cassette that doesn't SHRED aluminum hub carriers, I'm getting one!





































And for all of those naysayers that say the MRP 1.X chainguide can't be used with smaller than a 32T sprocket, I present to you the 29T chainguide Simply dremel out the groove that the guide mount slides in and you can slide it down another half inch or so. The 29T works fine. I don't know how low of a gear you could run but it can slide down a bit more as you can see in the picture.


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Anyone see the new Paul's bb mount keeper??? Heavier(only by 10 grams) than MRP 1.X but no doubt much classier

http://www.paulcomp.com/ckbb.html


----------



## Restoman (Feb 21, 2009)

Wrong forum, sorry.


----------



## toxicdrift (Apr 13, 2010)

here's mine guys 









alot of upgrades done in 1day, list is below !

RaceFace Ride DH Single Chainset 2010 - 170mm 4-Bolt 36t Silver
SRAM PC991 Chain 9sp - Each
SRAM X9 Rear Derailleur 9sp 2010 - Medium Cage
SRAM X9 Twister Shifter 9sp - RH Rear - 50mm
SRAM PG980 Cassette 9sp - 11-34
Da Bomb Recoil DJ Chain Guide 2010 - Black ISCG & Std BB 32-38t

Fire-Eye Parts:

FE254 Handlebar
PS1 Stem Black
Skinnies Grips
88 Pedals - Black


----------



## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Here is my 09 rockhopper pro that I built up. Been posted before but recently upgraded to pauls chain keeper, new shimano hollowtech lx cranks, new brake rotors (avid g3 up front, hayes v6 back) among a few other details here and there.


----------



## Stonebreaker (Oct 11, 2009)

toxicdrift said:


> alot of upgrades done in 1day, list is below !
> 
> Da Bomb Recoil DJ Chain Guide 2010 - Black ISCG & Std BB 32-38t


You must give a review of the Recoil. I'm looking at the regular Recoil for my Mission


----------



## wuzilla (Sep 9, 2008)

Do 1x8's count?


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

wuzilla said:


> Do 1x8's count?


Only if it comes with a Hand Job!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

wuzilla, of course it does count!

1x8 scores bonus points per se (as does a Handjob in any guise), and quadruple points when combined with a Handjob.


----------



## CRed (Aug 4, 2007)

Here's mine....


----------



## andy311 (Jan 10, 2008)

Just made a few upgrades, pretty happy with the way things turned out.


----------



## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Dan Gerous said:


> Take a deep breath, relax...
> 
> MRP announced a clamp-on AND a Direct Mount versions late last year, both, plus a clamp-on CX version for the smaller road cranks chainline of cyclocross bikes. Showing this one doesn't mean they ditched the clamp-on version, they didn't (I even have one from the first batch reserved). And more and more manufacturers are starting to put Direct Mount on their frame...


That would be nice but thier site does not reflect this. I would like an MRP seat tube clamp-on style too.

http://www.mrpbike.com/product.php?section=product


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

andy311, I'm not sure whether I'm a fan of 29ers, but yours looks built in accordance with Feng shui.


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

im converting my 2010 RH Expert to 1x9 literally as we speak. i'll post pics if i can find my camera!!!!!!!!!


----------



## kiwimtbr (Mar 1, 2004)

*My GT*

Heres mine, just finished converting to 1 x 9 and loving it.

Kiwi


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

i spent about 2 hours trying to figure how to get my crank arms off last night..... little did i know it was impossible without a crank puller.. I'll be sure and post my setup as soon as i can get crank puller and guide in.


----------



## Stonebreaker (Oct 11, 2009)

*Chain Sandwich*

I went with a chain sandwich for my 1x9 setup


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

stonebreaker, very nice set up, which bashguard and inner ring is that. i'd like to do that with myn


----------



## kiwimtbr (Mar 1, 2004)

Stonebreaker said:


> I went with a chain sandwich for my 1x9 setup
> View attachment 554405
> 
> View attachment 554406
> ...


Yeah i think i might do that aswell, it just looks tidier

Kiwi


----------



## Stonebreaker (Oct 11, 2009)

*Bbg*

www.bbgbashguard.com

Its a BBG bashguard and backguard sandwiching a Blackspire Mono Veloce 32T chainring. $32 for the guards shipped from BBG and $25 for the chainring from Pricepoint. I also put on a short cage rear derailleur to keep the chain tight and reduce slap. I've done about 6 long rides with this setup and yet to throw a chain.


----------



## kiwimtbr (Mar 1, 2004)

Hey Stonebreaker, how much did you shorten the chain by?, i am not too sure about this


----------



## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

Hey guys whats the lightest bottom chain tensioner or guide I can get that will fit on a specialized rockhopper, or a shimano lx hollowtech crank? The thing keeps falling off and its infuriating. Cant tell if I need a chainring with bigger teeth or a chainguide.


----------



## Ray Lee (Aug 17, 2007)

A Black Spire Stinger weighs almost nothing and a chain ring without pins and ramps helps.



Dirt Bringer said:


> Hey guys whats the lightest bottom chain tensioner or guide I can get that will fit on a specialized rockhopper, or a shimano lx hollowtech crank? The thing keeps falling off and its infuriating. Cant tell if I need a chainring with bigger teeth or a chainguide.


----------



## CRed (Aug 4, 2007)

A couple questions about the Stinger...1)Is it thin enough that it would co-exist with the spacer for my BB or is it thick enough to replace it?And...2)It says it needs a back plate to work for a single chain ring,is this included or must it be purchased separately?


----------



## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

How exactly does a stinger mount onto a rockhoppers bottom bracket?


----------



## Ray Lee (Aug 17, 2007)

You would need the BB mount version because you do not have ISCG tabs. It goes between the bottom bracket of the frame and the BB cups.
http://www.blackspire.com/site_assets/www.blackspire.com/images/dynamic/Stinger_Setup_guide.pdf

these directions are not that great but it would mount up much like an E type front derailleur would, maybe search for that for some pics

I cant remember exactly how thick they are but I am pretty sure I just exchanged a spacer for the Stinger... I will dig it out latter and measure it.



Dirt Bringer said:


> How exactly does a stinger mount onto a rockhoppers bottom bracket?


----------



## Stonebreaker (Oct 11, 2009)

kiwimtbr said:


> Hey Stonebreaker, how much did you shorten the chain by?, i am not too sure about this


I wrapped the chain around the 2 big rings (32T frontring and the 34T rear cog ring) with the derailleur off. Pulled the chain tight and added 2 full links. I started with 3 links as a test and then went to just 2. Better safe than replace!

And the short cage derailleur is alot crisper shifting than the long cage I had on it. Hardly any chain slap too!


----------



## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

After enjoying my trance as a 1x9, I converted my EX9 couple weeks ago.

Only dropped the chain once, but I had my RD adjusted wrong. Fixed it & no issues since.

30T andersenmachine ring upfront, BBG bashguard, shortened chain, XT shadow RD, and SRAM 990 cassette.
:thumbsup:


----------



## icbotor (Apr 21, 2010)

heres my setup. dawes deadeye, ss 29er that is 9-speed capable. i literally have like 1mm of space between the chain and the frame when on the 11t cog so it barely made the clearance. 32t chainring up front.

sram x.7 shorty real derailleur
sram x.7 trigger shifter
sram pg-950 cassette 11-32
sram pc-951 chain
3rd eye chain watcher


----------



## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

icbotor said:


> heres my setup. dawes deadeye, ss 29er that is 9-speed capable. i literally have like 1mm of space between the chain and the frame when on the 11t cog so it barely made the clearance. 32t chainring up front.
> 
> sram x.7 shorty real derailleur
> sram x.7 trigger shifter
> ...


Cool....fyi your chain tugs are on backwards.


----------



## icbotor (Apr 21, 2010)

^^ i actually had to set that back piece backwards because the chain would actually rub up against it.


----------



## uzurpator (Dec 8, 2005)

Mine 1x9 38 front, 11-32 back. Lovin it so far


----------



## kiwimtbr (Mar 1, 2004)

Well i went for my first decent 1 x 9 ride with some serious climbs in it.Been loving the simplicity of it but today was a major test of my comittment to it.
700m of climbing up a track that i use to do with ease when i had more choice of gears, well as my legs where burning and lungs exploding i kept on thinking to myself, Stronger legs and bigger lungs, stronger legs and bigger lungs, which will be the result of all this work.
anyway i got up into the snowline and had a bit of a play before heading back down to home as the weather was closing in.
All in all a good result and cant wait till next time which i dont think will be too far away.
Cheers

kiwi.


----------



## MetalSmurf (Jul 16, 2010)

Hi, I'm Planning on converting my GT Chucker to 1x7, i just bought and fitted a deore hollowtech II crank and i really like the look of the BBG Bash guard, i found their site and the price is really good ($18 shipped worldwide), however just skimming this forum i saw the BBG Back guard and it's not on their site. Anyone know where i could get one???? Thanks


----------



## Stonebreaker (Oct 11, 2009)

MetalSmurf said:


> however just skimming this forum i saw the BBG Back guard and it's not on their site. Anyone know where i could get one???? Thanks


It's on there. It's called the 64 BCD chain guard. It replaces the 22T chainring.


----------



## bengxe (Oct 11, 2009)

Im working on setting up my 1x9, but Im running into a couple problems. Im starting with a Stylo 2.2, so I already have a bash guard. I bought the BBG inner plate for a 32t chainring because Ive been planning on swapping to a 32t. Im still running the truvativ 36t, and Ive been dropping the chain to the inside when on the bigger cogs. I have a 32t chain ring on order, I hope that will fix it.
But my main concern is that it seems that even if the inner plate forces the chain to stay on, my chainline on the bigger cogs is going to be way off. Im guessing maybe the stylo 2.2 is made to optimize the chainline for the small cogs on the big ring, whereas a single or triple crank would be optimized for the middle cogs?. Is there a non-ghetto way of spacing the ring out to improve the chainline in the bigger cogs (where Ive spent most of my time since dropping the granny ring), or would I be better off finding a stylo 1.1 drive side crank arm? Id rather not sink much more money into this bike. As a temporary fix Ive swapped the second smallest cog to the inside to act as a spacer. It seems like it should help, but I havent ridden it yet. Id like to get the 9th cog back and get rid of the chain catching gap next to the spokes. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

This turned into a longer question than I originally intended, if anyone feels I should start my own thread instead Ill gladly edit this out. I will get pics when its all done.


----------



## MetalSmurf (Jul 16, 2010)

Hi, Stonebreaker thanks for your reply, I e-mailed the guy at BBG, really helpful, but the backguard is only available in 32t and i need 36t. so i'm gonna have a go at making one at work. if it looks presentable, i will post some pics.


----------



## Fattrax (Jul 4, 2010)

I have just finished converting my Trek Fuel to 1x9.

I am using a Home Brewed Components 32t Ti chainring and a custom guide. 

The guide weighs 18g total. It is made from aluminium sheet and a mounting post from a cantilever pad I had handy that is pinned to the plate. I have used two hollow brass pins as top and bottom retainers.

It mounts to the lower suspension pivot of the Fuel that was stopping me using a seat tube mount.

So far so good. Chain stays on and no jamming.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Wow. That's what i call "Clean". Very nice.


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

very nice fattrax


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Indiefab said:


> Wow. That's what i call "Clean". Very nice.


Wow, I was going to say the same the moment I saw that guide.
Clean.

Fattrax, do you get significant rub on that cage in highest or lowest gears? It looks narrow.


----------



## Fattrax (Jul 4, 2010)

Thanks for the responses.

I am not too happy with the finish I achieved on the aluminium, but couldn't be bothered sanding and polishing it. A few of the marks came from bending it up, but then I made the mistake of taking it to a welder to weld on the post in addition to the pinning of the square shaft it had already. This butcher first squashed it in a vice then welded it so hot the post melted off  So back to the start to repair it. The end result is a few marks, I guess.

There is minor chain rub in the lowest cog, but it doesn't bother me too much. I will see how it wears for if I need to tweak it. 

It is narrow (9mm at front edge), but is also close to the circumference of the chainring so there is very little chain movement that close in to where it is picked up by the chainring. My first version was further back and had to be wider to deal with the chainline. Didn't work as the guide was then wide enough to get the chain beside the ring, and a jammed chain resulted.


----------



## crump582 (Apr 8, 2010)

After checking out all these I REALLY would like to change my Spec Pitch Comp to a 1x9.

Can someone give me a rundown on what I have to purchase? I looked at the Black Spire Chain guide and the 3rd eye chain watcher. I have the BBG bashguard that replaced my big ring, but I'm not sure what my best option is to keep the chain on in the front? Anyone know what would work best on my particular bike? 

I would appreciate any help... thanks in advance.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

crump582, for that bike you can consider a proper modern chain guide, one that has both a cage and a roller.

Whether to prefer the traditional bashring style or the newer "taco guard" style, is dependent on your crankset and on how beefy the ISCG mounts on your frame are. Bashring is safer with a crankset designed to be used with one, such as Shimano SLX *Double*, or most modern DH/FR cranks. These feature beefier spiders and axles. The taco guard style (think e13 LG1+) works best with XC (triple) style cranks and massive ISCG tabs, which will have to carry impact loads.

Also, take a look at the new Straitline Silent Guide, and the e13 FreeChucker.

The ISCG mounts on your frame are most likely ISCG Old. I'm not sure how they are executed; but Specialized generally goes for high strength and low manufacture cost first, weight much later on this kind of frames.


----------



## crump582 (Apr 8, 2010)

Thanks for the reply... looks like I need to do some more reading!


----------



## kanai (Aug 26, 2008)

got two rides in since the conversion last week. lx m582 cranks with race face 34t ss ring, bbg 34t bashguard, blackspire stinger chain guide with an 11-34 cassette out back and mid-cage x7 rd. made the newb mistake of cutting the chain short, luckily i had a spare quick link handy. gotta dial in the rd cable tension, otherwise so far, so good!


----------



## Affe (Dec 4, 2007)

CRed said:


> Here's mine....


Lovely!!!


----------



## magku (Jul 15, 2008)

My 1x9 setup










MRP 1.x
Blackspire Mono Veloce 34T
XT Medium cage RD
XT 11.32 cog set


----------



## evobda2 (Dec 4, 2008)

My Meta4.. built up for aggressive XC.. just waiting on an LG1+ to come in as sometimes i kinda forget im not riding the DH bike.. 









Ps. I know my rear brake isnt on at the moment.. Just waiting on some elixir carbons to come in..


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

evobda2, you also may want to put one of these adjustable seatposts on there.


----------



## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

What is the recommended chainring of choice for 1x9? Im currently using a shimano multispeed after my blackspire downhill 32 tooth cracked. It was also producing noticeable amounts of chainsuck and derailments. Are there any that have been proven to be reliable and keep the chain on most of the time?


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Dirt Bringer said:


> What is the recommended chainring of choice for 1x9? Im currently using a shimano multispeed after my blackspire downhill 32 tooth cracked. It was also producing noticeable amounts of chainsuck and derailments. Are there any that have been proven to be reliable and keep the chain on most of the time?


The Blackspire mono veloce rings are popular, but my favorite is the e13 GuideRing.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

I've been running Middleburn Hardcoat (non-Slickshift) chainrings with good results.
Next thing to try is Renthal SR4, these are hard anodized (or so they claim).


----------



## 24v (Apr 5, 2009)

Loving it so far.:thumbsup:


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Large Scott Scale 29er

Here's a thread on the whole build if anyone's interested: https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=604180























































Dremmeled out the guide mount so I could slide the guide down low enough to run my 29t sprocket Nothing really out of the ordinary other than that little mod.


----------



## littlepitboy (Apr 4, 2010)

My updated rig---Giant Anthem X 1x9 Set-up

MRP 1x Chainguide, Blackspire Mono Veloce 34t Chainring, 2011 Fox Float Rp23 replacing Fox Float R
minus FD, Bigchain, Granny, Left Shifter, Matchmaker and Cables


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

A dirty Anthem is always a welcome sight! :thumbsup:


----------



## bengxe (Oct 11, 2009)

Heres mine. Its a Stylo 2.2 with an XTR (M952) derailleur. Its currently a 1x8 because I had to move the 12t cog inside the big cog to help the chainline on the bigger cogs. Im using a BBG inner chain guard and at first it interfered with the swingarm at full suspension droop, I had to grind off the inner edge of the plate to solve that. My outer bash is meant for the 36t ring that used to be on there, Ill be replacing it with a 32t bash from BBG soon.


----------



## 251 (May 13, 2008)

I originally built it up as 3x9, then went 2x9 (no granny), and about a couple months ago I did this: 1x9 with an XT/770 11-32 cassette, XT/760 crank with 32t chainring and Paul's Chain Keeper. The Chain Keeper works fairly well, though it took several rides to get the alignment set. I've since been very happy with the drivetrain, and it has performed well in very muddy rides and races. The photos below are after a relatively dry ride. Fortunately summer is coming soon...


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

better make sure the knome doesn't steal your ride... or your shiny salsa QRs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

The gnome looks like he rides a Medium. I think his ride is safe...


----------



## 251 (May 13, 2008)

> better make sure the knome doesn't steal your ride


I'm afraid it's too late...


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

251 said:


> I'm afraid it's too late...


Too funny! 

Lovely bike too!


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

well guys and gals in finally doing. GOING 1X9!!!!!!!! I spent about 20min trying to adjust my FD tonight b/c it just hasn't been running right, so now im going to eliminate it entirely.
so this is my gameplan for now, im eventually going to upgrade to better chainguide
i have a 2010 Rockhopper expert.
going to eliminate inner and outer rings, and use middle 32T ring
so im going to start out with an N-Gear Jump Stop.
My riding is hilly with small roots, nothing extravagent, so i wont need bashguard.
However, im wondering about if i need to lose some links in the chain or not.
I dont really see why i will need to, as when i would normally run granny gear, my chain never moved around much, so for now i think im just gonna go with a Jump Stop and see how that works.

I'll have to buy a crank puller since my BB doesn't come out on its own, and a Jump Stop. So i should have a decent 1x9 for under 30 bucks!!!! i'll post pics soon as i get it set-up.


----------



## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

I need some help guys. Dealing with a problem thats been rather ongoing for quite some time. My chain likes to fall off the bottom. I have a paul chainkeeper but after the chainkeeper it likes to derail. Sometimes it even skips. Im using a new chainring and chain (9sp). Prior to this I was using a downhill blackspire chainring and now Im using a shimano multispeed, and the problem has been the same on both. It seems to happen in the smaller cogs most. Obviously under fast bumps when not pedaling its the most prevalent. Ive been told its chainsuck, among other things, but I dont see how Im getting chainsuck on new components, my chainline is near perfect too. I think the skipping can be attributed mostly to shifting so I wont worry about that. Anyone got any ideas on how to fix the derailment issue? Thanks.


----------



## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

Dirt Bringer said:


> I need some help guys. Dealing with a problem thats been rather ongoing for quite some time. My chain likes to fall off the bottom. I have a paul chainkeeper but after the chainkeeper it likes to derail. Sometimes it even skips. Im using a new chainring and chain (9sp). Prior to this I was using a downhill blackspire chainring and now Im using a shimano multispeed, and the problem has been the same on both. It seems to happen in the smaller cogs most. Obviously under fast bumps when not pedaling its the most prevalent. Ive been told its chainsuck, among other things, but I dont see how Im getting chainsuck on new components, my chainline is near perfect too. I think the skipping can be attributed mostly to shifting so I wont worry about that. Anyone got any ideas on how to fix the derailment issue? Thanks.


http://www.blackspire.com/qs/product/83/5946/263245/0/0


----------



## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

Dirt Bringer said:


> I need some help guys. Dealing with a problem thats been rather ongoing for quite some time. My chain likes to fall off the bottom. I have a paul chainkeeper but after the chainkeeper it likes to derail. Sometimes it even skips. Im using a new chainring and chain (9sp). Prior to this I was using a downhill blackspire chainring and now Im using a shimano multispeed, and the problem has been the same on both. It seems to happen in the smaller cogs most. Obviously under fast bumps when not pedaling its the most prevalent. Ive been told its chainsuck, among other things, but I dont see how Im getting chainsuck on new components, my chainline is near perfect too. I think the skipping can be attributed mostly to shifting so I wont worry about that. Anyone got any ideas on how to fix the derailment issue? Thanks.


That's the limiting factor of all of those types of chain keepers. The N-gear, Paul, MRP 1X and e.13 XCX are all good for lightweight use, but when you ride aggressively and/or on rough trails you need a real chain guide with a lower roller to keep the chain wrapped on the lower part of the chainring. It has nothing to do with chainsuck, type of chainring or chainline.

Either add a Stinger to your current setup as suggested above, or pick up a new chain guide like an e.13 LG-1, MRP G2, etc.


----------



## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

Just an FYI, I wasn't suggesting the stinger, although thats also a good little device, the link is for the blackguard, ie inner guide ring that bolts onto the granny mounts on the crank and together with a bash guard makes a bash sandwhich, both tasty and awesome at stopping your chain falling off.

Put it this way, bash sandwhich is all I run on my DH bike, in east coast gnar, never once dropped my chain...


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

I've been running LG1+ since mid-spring, and it's the best chain retention device I've ever used. It's on my Ti urban/DJ/do-all hardtail, which sees lots of ugly landings. The device is light, quality made, very adjustable, and it actually guards against hits.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Dirt Bringer said:


> I need some help guys. Dealing with a problem thats been rather ongoing for quite some time. My chain likes to fall off the bottom. I have a paul chainkeeper but after the chainkeeper it likes to derail. Sometimes it even skips. Im using a new chainring and chain (9sp). Prior to this I was using a downhill blackspire chainring and now Im using a shimano multispeed, and the problem has been the same on both. It seems to happen in the smaller cogs most. Obviously under fast bumps when not pedaling its the most prevalent. Ive been told its chainsuck, among other things, but I dont see how Im getting chainsuck on new components, my chainline is near perfect too. I think the skipping can be attributed mostly to shifting so I wont worry about that. Anyone got any ideas on how to fix the derailment issue? Thanks.


I'd still recommend going back to a singlespeed chainring, but with the proper pedaling technique, even a multispeed front chainring shouldn't drop the chain. 
What you need to do is concentrate on not backpedaling going into corners. As long as you are pedaling forward or keeping the pedals still, the chain really can't drop, but when you pedal backwards to get your feet set for a corner, the chain will drop until it hits the Paul's. The chain is usuallly moving both vertically and laterally over rough terrain, and pedaling backwards allows it to catch the outside of the chainring, especially when you are in the smaller cogs.

I've recently changed to the MRP 1.x because I was tired of fiddling with chainwatchers and chainguards/bashguards, and haven't had a single problem. Your Paul's should work well with a single speed ring. Once you practice not backpedaling into corners, it becomes automatic and you don't even think about it.


----------



## Zillon (Sep 24, 2007)

Built this up last November. Love it. :thumbsup:


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

18 months too late, IMHO.










Dirt Rag @ Interbike 2010


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

It looks a little too ugly, imho.
I don't know why, I just get that feeling.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

e13 are smart enough to devise an eccentric mounting system so that the chainguide can be adjusted for different chainlines, but the major cycling media outlets are too busy posting their mandatory fluff about midrange road models from Cannondale and Ridley. At least DirtRag and TreeFortBikes care enough to post some decent pics. Seriously, I don't remember the coverage from Velonews and CyclingNews ever being worse than this year.


----------



## Roadsters (Jul 7, 2008)

The Breezer Lightning appeared earlier in this thread, and uses a pair of Dura-Ace cranks with a single 39-tooth chainring, a Dura-Ace chain, and a nine-speed Dura-Ace 12-27 cassette.

A few weeks ago I built up my second one-by-nine, starting with a 1999 Klein Attitude Race frame. The drivetrain on this one is a pair of XT cranks with a 32-tooth Salsa single-specific chainring, a Dura-Ace chain, and an American Classic 12-25 aluminum cassette.

Great bikes, lots of fun to ride.


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

*new to 1x9 loving it so far*

my 1x9 setup
2010 Rockhopper Expert
few upgrades








[/URL][/IMG]

BBG Bashwich











[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## Stonebreaker (Oct 11, 2009)

very nice!!


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

stonebreaker, you were the culprit to my bashwich. haha. so far so good. i had to trim the inner guard a hair b/c it was juuuuust barely rubbing the swingarm. next thing i need is some less aggresive tires. im trying to pick up some speed and i feel my tires may be a bit sluggish and beefy for my needs


----------



## Stonebreaker (Oct 11, 2009)

Cool thanks, I got the idea from some other broes on here too!! I had the same issue with my Nevegals as far as speed goes and have found that the right tire air pressure was key. I do plan to drop the rear to a 2.1 from the 2.3 I have now when I wear it out.


----------



## eliflap (Dec 13, 2007)

here mine new chainguide


----------



## hootsmon (Feb 7, 2008)

very nice indeed!!!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

eliflap said:


> here mine new chainguide


Mine eyes are playing tricks on me, they insist that cage is on backwards!


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

J. Random Psycho said:


> Mine eyes are playing tricks on me, they insist that cage is on backwards!


im with you on this one. unless theres something we're missing???????


----------



## Maxwe11 (Mar 15, 2010)

Where can a rider procure the bbg bashwich? Google didn't help; it lead me back here. I saw that widget website, which is similar. Seems expensive though, for what it is.


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

Bbgbashguard.com. Its a small website, which appears to be independently owned. Guards are $12 a piece with $6 a piece. So bashwich would cost a total of $36. WEEEELLLLL worth it in my opinion.


----------



## SuPrBuGmAn (Jun 20, 2009)

Truvativ Stylo 1.1
Sram 9spd chain
Fang chainkeeper
Sram PG980 11-34 
X-7 short cage RD

All on a '10 Hardrock Sport Disc 29"er


----------



## JSumner13 (Apr 26, 2006)

Niner MCR......


----------



## Aaron1017 (Jun 1, 2010)

Just using the derailleur as a guide for now!


----------



## vizsladog (Mar 15, 2009)

Mrp 1x with e 13 chainring


----------



## tturbotom (May 10, 2006)

I'm in the process of building up my next 1X9 rig. The last bike was a full suspension 26", this time around I will be rolling a hard tail 29er. After a year and a half of playing the roadie roll, I look forward to hitting the trails again.


----------



## PaintPeelinPbody (Feb 3, 2004)

Has anyone dropped or jumped a chain using a Bashwich? 

I've got my stock Shimano bashring that I like, but I'm thinking of adding the inside 64mm ring to keep from dropping the chain, though it seems like it still could jump, unlike the chain guides...correct?


----------



## Ray Lee (Aug 17, 2007)

Yes, had to go with a full guide on my FS bike as it would drop to the inside... seems to work fine on the hard tail



PaintPeelinPbody said:


> Has anyone dropped or jumped a chain using a Bashwich?
> 
> I've got my stock Shimano bashring that I like, but I'm thinking of adding the inside 64mm ring to keep from dropping the chain, though it seems like it still could jump, unlike the chain guides...correct?


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

i havent dropped the chain yet with the bbg bashwich, however i am riding a HT with 2 links removed from chain.


----------



## 661lee (Apr 11, 2007)

*Mrp 1.x ?*

Those of you running the MRP 1.X, does the chain rub on it? I can't get mine adjusted to where it doesn't rub when I'm in the smaller half of the cassette.


----------



## bengxe (Oct 11, 2009)

PaintPeelinPbody said:


> Has anyone dropped or jumped a chain using a Bashwich?
> 
> I've got my stock Shimano bashring that I like, but I'm thinking of adding the inside 64mm ring to keep from dropping the chain, though it seems like it still could jump, unlike the chain guides...correct?


I used to drop the chain once in a while when I was using a 36t chainring with a 32t sized inner bash. Since swapping to a 32t chainring I havent had any problems. If the chain length is correct and the rear derailleur is functioning correctly, I dont see how it would be possible to drop the chain with a bashwich.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

661lee said:


> Those of you running the MRP 1.X, does the chain rub on it? I can't get mine adjusted to where it doesn't rub when I'm in the smaller half of the cassette.


no rubbing here.

The lower you can get the guide the more clearance you will have across the whole range of the cassette, and the rotational angle of the back plate actually has a big impact on how low the guide can go. If you get the angle right, the curve on the bottom of the guide will exactly match the sweep of the chainring mounting tabs as the crank turns and you can lower the guide down really close.


----------



## veloreality (May 10, 2009)




----------



## PaintPeelinPbody (Feb 3, 2004)

Do they make a bigger BBG inner ring? Something that would work for a bigger front gear if necessary? 

I guess because its not a true bash (thinner and only supported by 64mm 4-bolt, it probably wouldnt be wise to run a bigger inner and smaller out...might result in a bent inner...


----------



## 661lee (Apr 11, 2007)

Hey boomn,

Thanks man. That helped a lot. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

661lee said:


> Thanks man. That helped a lot. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


Cool. Glad to help


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

veloreality, that Porter is cute! It seems that it's your do-all steed, how do you like it?

With that long cage derailer and the guide without a lower roller, how do you manage to avoid frequent chain drops?


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Here's mine

Don't worry, I've added some chainstay protection since the photo


----------



## josep1987 (Nov 6, 2010)

*mine e.thirteen and stinger*

Does drop the chain, think im going to get a ethirteen lsg1+ but happy with the change .
oh yeah its 40t get a good range for xc and road, ( and my new Ritchey stem )


----------



## josep1987 (Nov 6, 2010)

*Ethirteen guide !*

Finished project!


----------



## mtborlando (Dec 2, 2010)

*BBG bash guard*

pictures to come soon!

I have a BBG outer bashring: ($12) http://www.bbgbashguard.com/Mountainbike.html
this thing has a lifetime guarantee!

a dartmoor sting 38tooth on my center ring
($19 ride-this.com)

and an N-gear chain guide
($10, jensonusa)

my entire set up was about $53 shipped!

Thanks to Erin at BBG for the help!

Regards, Nate


----------



## GT boy (Dec 8, 2010)

*Gt LTS 1 from 1996*

this is my baby, just finished her this week, doing a few test rides it looks like if i am careful on the downshifts i will get away without a chain guide, i have a Modified Capreo hub and Cassette giving me a 9-32 cassette, means i can run a smaller chainring than what is on there now, i am going for a middleburn 27 tooth duo inner. it gives me around 20 to 80 gear inches, plenty for me.

should be sweet.


----------



## jgerhardt (Aug 31, 2009)

GT boy said:


> this is my baby, just finished her this week, doing a few test rides it looks like if i am careful on the downshifts i will get away without a chain guide, i have a Modified Capreo hub and Cassette giving me a 9-32 cassette, means i can run a smaller chainring than what is on there now, i am going for a middleburn 27 tooth duo inner. it gives me around 20 to 80 gear inches, plenty for me.
> 
> should be sweet.


If I remember correctly, those LTS's didn't come with disc brakes (especially in '96) did you end up using one of the after market conversions?


----------



## arcticrobot (Apr 22, 2009)

I really liked Stonebreaker's setup with BBG guards and short cage derailleur. How long is the rear travel on that bike? Am I going to be ok with the same setup on the 140 mm travel Cannondale RZ140? Or should I use longer derailleur?
Also: are there any advantages if I use 1x10 setup over the 1x9?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

arcticrobot, with a single front ring and any cassette ranged up to 11-36, a short cage derailer is sufficient and preferable.

As for 1x10 over 1x9, I'm not sure. A 10-speed chain is narrower than a 9-speed. In my book, this means that with good chainlines a 9-speed is expected to last longer, whereas with not so good chainlines a 10-speed may benefit from its greater flexibility.

I guess it depends what rear cogs you're going to use the most. But a good setup implies that most of the time the chainline is good, so I'd prefer a wider chain anyway.

It's because of this reasoning that I ended up with 1x5 drivetrain using 8-speed chain and cogs. Chain is nice and wide, and the chainline is never too off.


----------



## arcticrobot (Apr 22, 2009)

J. Random Psycho said:


> arcticrobot, with a single front ring and any cassette ranged up to 11-36, a short cage derailer is sufficient and preferable.


Thank you! So I will be ordering short cage and stick to 1x9 drivetrain for now.


----------



## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

J. Random Psycho said:


> arcticrobot, with a single front ring and any cassette ranged up to 11-36, a short cage derailer is sufficient and preferable.


This is what everybody says, but I wonder. 
Why is it preferable? Other than saving a few grams, a bit more clearance, and a cleaner look, is there any other benefit?
What got me thinking about this, is when I switched to 2x9 and kept my long cage. I shortened my chain appropriately, and by the way, there is no chain shortening benefit by using a short cage, contrary to some popular belief.
So with my set up, my long cage stays angled far forward, to wrap a minimal amount of chain. The farther forward the cage, the tighter the cage spring is. So my cage puts more tension on the chain than a short cage would, and the shifts are very "snappy". 
I thought about getting a short or medium cage, to follow conventional wisdom, but I doubt I would see any benefit at all. 
And now that I think about it, since my cage is always angled far forward, it probably doesn't hang down any lower than a short cage anyway, so there goes the clearance benefit.


----------



## arcticrobot (Apr 22, 2009)

smilinsteve said:


> This is what everybody says, but I wonder.
> Why is it preferable? Other than saving a few grams, a bit more clearance, and a cleaner look, is there any other benefit?
> What got me thinking about this, is when I switched to 2x9 and kept my long cage. I shortened my chain appropriately, and by the way, there is no chain shortening benefit by using a short cage, contrary to some popular belief.
> So with my set up, my long cage stays angled far forward, to wrap a minimal amount of chain. The farther forward the cage, the tighter the cage spring is. So my cage puts more tension on the chain than a short cage would, and the shifts are very "snappy".
> ...


2х9 is a little different due to the presence of the 42-44 chainring. I'm in the process of building the bike and plan to finish it by spring. So I have plenty of time to do some research and listen to all educated opinions here.


----------



## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

arcticrobot said:


> 2х9 is a little different due to the presence of the 42-44 chainring. I'm in the process of building the bike and plan to finish it by spring. So I have plenty of time to do some research and listen to all educated opinions here.


Actually I'm talking about 2x9 with the big ring replaced with a bashguard.


----------



## arcticrobot (Apr 22, 2009)

smilinsteve said:


> Actually I'm talking about 2x9 with the big ring replaced with a bashguard.


How many extra chain links have you kept with this setup? Guys with short cage claim 2 extra, if I'm not mistaken.


----------



## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

arcticrobot said:


> How many extra chain links have you kept with this setup? Guys with short cage claim 2 extra, if I'm not mistaken.


I'm not sure I understand the question. Kept?
When a removed my big ring, I was able to remove 6 links from my chain. I thought it would be more, but I set it up in the usual way (long enough to go over my biggest combo, 32x32, plus 1 link).


----------



## arcticrobot (Apr 22, 2009)

smilinsteve said:


> I'm not sure I understand the question. Kept?
> When a removed my big ring, I was able to remove 6 links from my chain. I thought it would be more, but I set it up in the usual way (long enough to go over my biggest combo, 32x32, plus 1 link).


Probably I didn't ask properly but you've answered my question) So, the only difference seems that long cage is pointed more forward in similar gear ratios and there is longer distance that chain has to travel between derailleur pulleys. I just assume that short cage overall is stiffer than long cage and that would be the only advantage. On the other hand, as you said, derailleur spring on the long cage is more tense. That advantage(or disadvantage?) may be eliminated due to longer arm of force(if I translate physics terminology correctly) on the long cage derailleur.


----------



## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

arcticrobot said:


> Probably I didn't ask properly but you've answered my question) So, the only difference seems that long cage is pointed more forward in similar gear ratios and there is longer distance that chain has to travel between derailleur pulleys. I just assume that short cage overall is stiffer than long cage and that would be the only advantage. On the other hand, as you said, derailleur spring on the long cage is more tense. That advantage(or disadvantage?) may be eliminated due to longer arm of force(if I translate physics terminology correctly) on the long cage derailleur.


I hadn't thought about the lever arm, but good point. But I still think the long cage puts more tension on the chain. Take your deraileur and push the cage all the way forward and you can feel a huge increase in tension compared to when the cage is back. 
I don't know the exact length comparison, but if a long cage is 2x the short cage, I think the spring tension increases more than 2x to make up for this.
But you are right, the lever arm factor makes the high spring tension less significant than I originally thought, compared to the short cage. But that still doesn't show me an advantage to a short cage.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

smilinsteve said:


> I hadn't thought about the lever arm, but good point. But I still think the long cage puts more tension on the chain. Take your deraileur and push the cage all the way forward and you can feel a huge increase in tension compared to when the cage is back.
> I don't know the exact length comparison, but if a long cage is 2x the short cage, I think the spring tension increases more than 2x to make up for this.
> But you are right, the lever arm factor makes the high spring tension less significant than I originally thought, compared to the short cage. But that still doesn't show me an advantage to a short cage.


You can run a short cage at the same angle, in fact you pretty much have to because the shorter cage can take up less slack so it has to be tighter in the largest cog in order to still function in the smallest cog. The rated chain capacity of most short cage mtb models is equal to the difference between the smallest and largest cogs (23t for 9spd to fit 11-34t, 25t for 10spd to fit 11-36t)

The lever arm change does make a pretty big difference too. It doesn't tension the chain tighter but it does a better job of resisting any forces from the chain, such as the weight of the chain bouncing around and trying to move the cage. This reduces chain slap and also reduces the likelihood of the chain coming off the bottom of the front chainring. This is one of the reasons some people are able to run 1x9s with no front chainguide

Also, there is a difference in chain length using a short cage. The design and construction of short and long cage models is the same except for the cage length, this means they both have the same maximum angle the cage can be pulled forward. When the two cages are at the same angle it takes more chain to go from the cassette to the bottom pulley of a long cage derailleur and more chain to go from the bottom pulley to the chainring. Edit: quick diagram


----------



## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

boomn said:


> You can run a short cage at the same angle, in fact you pretty much have to because the shorter cage can take up less slack so it has to be tighter in the largest cog in order to still function in the smallest cog. The rated chain capacity of most short cage mtb models is equal to the difference between the smallest and largest cogs (23t for 9spd to fit 11-34t, 25t for 10spd to fit 11-36t)


For any length cage, it is pulled to near horizontal when in the big big combo (if the chain is sized to barely fit that combo). But as you go to smaller cogs, the longer cage has to move back less than the shorter cage, so the spring tension stays higher with a longer cage. The smaller the cog or chainring, the bigger the difference. 
It sounds like you are saying that short cage deraileurs come with stronger springs. I didn't know that. They wouldn't necessarily have to, since they function over a smaller range. It is really the angle of the cage that matters. If a small and a large are both designed to work in the same angle range for their stated capacity, then the springs could be the same stiffness for both.



> The lever arm change does make a pretty big difference too. It doesn't tension the chain tighter but it does a better job of resisting any forces from the chain, such as the weight of the chain bouncing around and trying to move the cage. This reduces chain slap and also reduces the likelihood of the chain coming off the bottom of the front chainring. This is one of the reasons some people are able to run 1x9s with no front chainguide


Yes, I see that, but I still think that the increased spring tension of the long cage counters the lever arm effect, especially when you are in small cogs.



> Also, there is a difference in chain length using a short cage. The design and construction of short and long cage models is the same except for the cage length, this means they both have the same maximum angle the cage can be pulled forward. When the two cages are at the same angle it takes more chain to go from the cassette to the bottom pulley of a long cage derailleur and more chain to go from the bottom pulley to the chainring


I'm not sure I buy that. When I'm in big/big 32x32, my cage is horizontal and the chain is running from cog to chainring in nearly a straight line, almost like there is no deraileur there.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

smilinsteve said:


> For any length cage, it is pulled to near horizontal when in the big big combo (if the chain is sized to barely fit that combo). But as you go to smaller cogs, the longer cage has to move back less than the shorter cage, so the spring tension stays higher with a longer cage. The smaller the cog or chainring, the bigger the difference.
> It sounds like you are saying that short cage deraileurs come with stronger springs. I didn't know that. They wouldn't necessarily have to, since they function over a smaller range. It is really the angle of the cage that matters. If a small and a large are both designed to work in the same angle range for their stated capacity, then the springs could be the same stiffness for both.


I see what you're saying about the smaller end of the cassette; I was focused too strongly on the larger end of the cassette. All I can add at this point is that I must not understand everything well enough because I can't explain it all, but I have owned long and medium cage versions of the same models from both Shimano and SRAM and I did notice a difference. I have ridden a bike that had the short cage version of my derailleur too and noticed an even larger difference. When the evidence says something my theories can't explain I know my theories need more work



smilinsteve said:


> I'm not sure I buy that. When I'm in big/big 32x32, my cage is horizontal and the chain is running from cog to chainring in nearly a straight line, almost like there is no deraileur there.


If it's really horizontal then your chain is too short. However I do see now how the angle in the largest cog would make the difference quite small


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

smilinsteve said:


> This is what everybody says, but I wonder.
> Why is it preferable? Other than saving a few grams, a bit more clearance, and a cleaner look, is there any other benefit?


A shorter cage provides less leverage (against cage tension spring) for the weight of the lower run of chain to act upon. This way, any chain slap subsides faster.

Some would also add, a shorter cage is a laterally stiffer cage.
And perhaps, a lower probability of bad consequences should the cage get pulled into spokes.

I like it for the clean look, of course. )

PS
Wow, I haven't noticed there were so many new posts on this subject!


----------



## Steve.E (Apr 10, 2009)

Evil Sovereign 1x9
















(there's an extra link in the chain now).

30t chainring from https://andersenmachine.com/
Blackspire inner guard
Blackspire stinger ISCG 05
Straitline serrated bash
KNC X9L chain
X0 short cage mech, x9 shifter

I had to grind down the granny bolts significantly to increase clearence between the bolts and ISCG bolts and maintain an acceptable chainline (without using washers), it seems to run great so far, there's a tiny bit of rub (occasional) between the inner guard and chain (when using 34t cog) other than that it seems good, the chain seems rock solid, it's never coming off, just needs proper testing now.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Hmmmmm.... a Stinger combined with a non-round bashguard.
IMHO, there is some opportunity for the chain to come off from below and jam between roller and the bashguard.

Chain length on these photos looks right above the fringe of being too short -- did you add one link because drivetrain was not working 100% good? I would have added a link too, if only to ease the stress on cage spring.


----------



## Steve.E (Apr 10, 2009)

J. Random Psycho said:


> Hmmmmm.... a Stinger combined with a non-round bashguard.
> IMHO, there is some opportunity for the chain to come off from below and jam between roller and the bashguard.
> 
> Chain length on these photos looks right above the fringe of being too short -- did you add one link because drivetrain was not working 100% good? I would have added a link too, if only to ease the stress on cage spring.


I was getting chain suck when back pedalling, so added a link, I'll be surprised if the chain comes off.


----------



## moshelove (Jun 8, 2005)

*1x or sandwich?*

hi guys,

been looking all through this thread, my eyes are about to fall out.

I can't decide if I should go bashguard/ blackspire black guard, or just get the e.13 1x.

I was initially going to go with the blackspire stinger and black guard sandwich, but that seems like overkill.

bike is a hardtail DJ bike, I will ride it urban and all mountain.

I don't think a bash is necessarily mandatory. I'm sort of starting from scratch with all of this.

I will be riding pretty rough trails and doing lots of jumping if that helps.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

moshelove, your intended applications are begging for either LG1+, MRP G2 Mini type chain device, or something equivalent that uses a bashguard (like Straitline Silent Guide), depending on your frame, crankset, and BB choice.

Lower retention piece should handle landings and riding through rough stuff, and the guard part should take care of urban stuff and rock crawling.


----------



## 661lee (Apr 11, 2007)

Pedaling backwards seems to be a problem with my MRP 1.X (e13 XCX) which I think would be a problem with urban riding So, I second J. Random's post. Gamut p20 or p25 would also be good option if you go with a bash.


----------



## GT boy (Dec 8, 2010)

jgerhardt said:


> If I remember correctly, those LTS's didn't come with disc brakes (especially in '96) did you end up using one of the after market conversions?


good knowledge, that's right, i had to bolt an adaptor into holes i drilled and tapped into the beefy left dropout. it works really well, you dont even notice it. it is just there and i have good brakes. i went through all kinds of brake boosters and stuff with the V's that were on there before.


----------



## og1 (Mar 3, 2008)

New to the 1x scene, picked up this lightly used Felt q620 on craigs this week. Has 2.5 Nevegal's, Raceface Evolve DH crankset, and Easton Havoc bars. Havent had it on the trail yet but looking forward to it. 

I did have a question though as I am kinda new to this:

I set the chain length by wrapping the chain on the big cog and the crank and added 1 full link (1"). The der still has some forward travel like this, but it is pointed forward pretty good. is this OK or should I add another link. Also, I obviously have no inside chain retention. It doesnt look like I have the clearance to run an inner plate like I would prefer, so I guess I might need a guide. Anyone know what works best with this setup?

Thanks


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

og1, the derailer cage angle looks OK on there.
For that setup, first thing to try is N-Gear Jump Stop, I guess.

As a side note, MRP makes the Lopes SL chainguide these days.
It's very light at 103-104 g, but provides complete chain retention AND installs on BB shell, which is a very nice touch for this kind of device.

For those who don't tend to clip their chainrings against stuff, but suffer from chain drops, it's the ticket I think. I would consider one for myself for the kind of trailbike a Banshee Rampant can be built into. Or SC BXCc, for that matter! O_O

A geared DJ/light-street bike could also benefit from such device.










P. S.
As I said here recently, I'm running 8-speed cassettes and chains (on 2 of my bikes, actually, with 5 and 6 cogs). Up until about a month ago, I had to use 8-speed shifters, too. But between previous Alivio and non-series R440 units, mine were not very user friendly. I thought it worth mentioning that on my 5-speeder, the gears are now switched with a Saint M810 trigger. Yes, it all works together: a 9-speed trigger, a Shadow type derailer, and a 8-speed cassette. The magic happens inside the tiny and precise Jtek Shiftmate unit.

Here is the link:
https://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7541456&postcount=8


----------



## jcolletteiii (Dec 1, 2010)

Thanks everyone for all of the great info on this thread. There are so many options. I was thinking about going with the widget, mainly because it comes in orange which would match the graphics on my Ironhorse MK3. But it's 125 bucks for two pieces of aluminum riveted to a third!

Then I was thinking about either and MRP or e.thirteen setup. I found a used e.thirteen setup on ebay that I was bidding for - still pretty cheap if anyone is interested -> http://cgi.ebay.com/e-thirteen-LG40...Accessories&hash=item27b77116a6#ht_500wt_1156

But after reading this thread, I've decided to go with the BBG 'bash-which' option, with a bash on front and a guide plate in back. For like 30 bucks shipped, how can you go wrong? I'll probably remove a couple of links or add a chain tensioner as well. Will post pics when installed. THANKS AGAIN for the great info!


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

im a big fan of the BBG bashwich. i tried other setups ( the n-gear jump stop) which personally didn't work for me. But the bashwich has been flawless thus far. Good luck


----------



## Stonebreaker (Oct 11, 2009)

arcticrobot said:


> I really liked Stonebreaker's setup with BBG guards and short cage derailleur. How long is the rear travel on that bike?


Thanks!! My mission has 6" travel and still no drop with the "Bashwich."


----------



## arcticrobot (Apr 22, 2009)

I have ordered my bashwich with 34t outer guard and 32t inner guard(replasing 22t granny ring). Now I'm running 32t middle chainring. I'm wondering if I can replace it with 34t chainring and inner guard will still be functional in preventing the chain from dropping. What is the difference in diameter between 32t and 34t rings?


----------



## bmCube (Dec 14, 2010)

This is my 1x9 bike
Used 34T in front and 12-25 and 11-34 cassette
chainguide is one from superstar components


----------



## tturbotom (May 10, 2006)

I used to have a homemade bashwich style setup on my FS 26er and with worked flawlessly. I have not found a need for any type of chain retention devise on my HT 29er.


----------



## santabooze (Oct 14, 2010)

Just finished all 24 pages of this thread, Haven't quite figured out which way to go so forgive my ignorance. I am currently riding a 3X9 12/32 standard XT crank on a blur Lt2
I am considering going to 1X9 for weight savings for a 24hr event.
2 questions :
What are the pros and cons of the 1X9?
If I do this should I run 11/34 and a widget 28T or 30T for similar gear ratios?
Sorry for all the questions just looking to get educated on this system.


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

you must have been REALLY bored to read all 24 pages. haha. j/k. 

im not as avid 1X9 as some people, but in my 6 month history of riding it, its made me a better rider, i no longer have the granny gear to rely on which has strengthened my riding. it makes you carry a little more speed on the course which is a plus, and it eliminates the whole front Der. ( obviously ) which gives you one less thing to worry about, and it does lighten up the bike a little if you are into that kind of thing. haha

im not gonna tell you what to do, but instead of running a $150 widget, you can use your middle chainring, which is most likely a 32T and get a BBG bashwich which is what i have for exactly $36 shipped, and its arguably the same as a widget. I have had no problems with the BBG bashwich. Its light, works great, serves its purpose, and saves you a whoooooool lot of money compared to a widget. Thats just my 2 bits.

Good luck and Merry Christmas.
RIDE ON!!!!!!


----------



## santabooze (Oct 14, 2010)

jeeper006 said:


> you must have been REALLY bored to read all 24 pages. haha. j/k.
> 
> im not as avid 1X9 as some people, but in my 6 month history of riding it, its made me a better rider, i no longer have the granny gear to rely on which has strengthened my riding. it makes you carry a little more speed on the course which is a plus, and it eliminates the whole front Der. ( obviously ) which gives you one less thing to worry about, and it does lighten up the bike a little if you are into that kind of thing. haha
> 
> ...


 Vacationing in Mexico, sitting in bed literally waiting for the pepto bismal to kick, all the while my family sleeps and dreams of candy canes, and misteletoes....


----------



## Mucker (Feb 14, 2004)

Just finished setting my Niner up 1x9. Used e13 XCX chainguide, 34 raceface single speed ring, and 11-34 cassette. Going to take it out for its first ride in a few minutes.



















edit: A big thank you to Rob and Raceface for taking care of me and sending me some SS washers so I could run the single ring in the front.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

*I may have been wrong on the 9-vs-10 thing.*

This is what I said in an earlier post on this thread:



> As for 1x10 over 1x9, I'm not sure. A 10-speed chain is narrower than a 9-speed. In my book, this means that with good chainlines a 9-speed is expected to last longer, whereas with not so good chainlines a 10-speed may benefit from its greater flexibility.


I assumed all the time that the reduction in chain width from 9 to 10 speed chains is because the space between inner plates is smaller, and cog teeth are narrower.

However, look at this post:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7263822&postcount=19

What it says is, teeth width is the same in 9 and 10 speed parts, and chain inner plates are the same, just the outer plates have been narrowed down. If this is true (I have no 10 speed chain or cassette around to measure), it means lots of things:


Wear on 10 speed chain is not going to be worse than 9 speed.
Since Shimano has revised pull ratio on 10 speed gear, making it close to 1:1, shifting is going to be as resistant to cable/housing imperfections as it has been with SRAM all the time.
We should not fear the 10 speed gear. Instead, let's make full use of it in 1xN drivetrains (be it 1x10 or just 1x6 or whatever cassette pieces we choose to run).
The worst has happened back when 8 speed gear was superseded with 9 speed, so we still want 8 speed back. )
Jtek Engineering may want to introduce a pulley that would allow a 10-speed Shimano trigger and derailer to be used over a 8-speed cassette. This is better than converting 9-speed cable pull to 8-speed because more cable would be mover per shift.
Now, where are those short cage 10-speed rear derailers?
Interesting single chainring setups seem to be possible with 2-ring 10-speed cranksets (like SRAM XX) as well. That's because there are smaller than 32T middle rings available, and chainline is 49.5 mm (SRAM XX), 48.8mm (XTR 980 Race), not so far off from contemporary 9-speed external cranksets (that is, if they specify chainline values for the smaller ring position). New bashguards are going to be needed, however.


----------



## bengxe (Oct 11, 2009)

Im almost finished building a spare parts bike on an older Giant Iguana frame. Its setup 1x9 with a 30t chainring on a truvativ road triple crank, with an 11-36t HG-61 out back, and deore shifting. I think Ill make a bashguard out of a cheap 110/130 chainring, and Im going to try a N-gear jumpstop for the inside.

















Ive posted this bike in this thread already, but Ive made a lot of changes to it. Its a Stylo 2.2 with a BBG bashwich and a 32t blackspire chainring, a pg-980 11-34t, and SLX/ Sram attack shifting.


----------



## ADDam (Jun 7, 2008)

Here's my 1x10 Setup using:

SRAM X.9 Rear Derailleur
SRAM X.9 Shifter
SRAM 1070 12-36 Cassette
KMC X10SL Chain 
Salsa 32t Chainring
MRP 1.X BB Mount Chain Guide


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

ADDam said:


> Here's my 1x10 Setup


Like the frame
Like the components
LOVE the white cable housing. That's the only way to go.


----------



## ADDam (Jun 7, 2008)

Indiefab said:


> Like the frame
> Like the components
> LOVE the white cable housing. That's the only way to go.


Thanks! HERE'S a photo of the whole bike. I'll be Changing the brake lines shortly.


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

very nice ADDam, i like the black and white, especially the gold chain!!!!


----------



## bikerboyj17 (Dec 18, 2007)

ADDam said:


> Here's my 1x10 Setup using:
> 
> SRAM X.9 Rear Derailleur
> SRAM X.9 Shifter
> ...


Any idea on the weight of the salsa ring?

Thanks a bunch


----------



## bionicman (Nov 6, 2009)

I'll apologize if this has already been covered but 24 pages come-on

I recently went with a 1x9 setup 11-34 with a 24 cog & short cage der
I am experiencing rubbing of the chain (light drag) on the inside of the chain guide when using the largest 3 cogs 34....

Visually the chain line is not very desireable in other than the middle 3 gears or so

any suggestions to eliminate the chain drag in the larger cassette gears?


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

bionicman said:


> I'll apologize if this has already been covered but 24 pages come-on
> 
> I recently went with a 1x9 setup 11-34 with a 24 cog & short cage der
> I am experiencing rubbing of the chain (light drag) on the inside of the chain guide when using the largest 3 cogs 34....
> ...


what guide are you using? Is the height adjustable?

The lower the guide's cage is the more clearance it will have for a chainline that is towards either extreme.


----------



## bionicman (Nov 6, 2009)

boomn said:


> what guide are you using? Is the height adjustable?
> 
> The lower the guide's cage is the more clearance it will have for a chainline that is towards either extreme.


I'm cheating somewhat
using a Hammerschmit system with a 9spd cassette/chain
in the larger cassette gears it rubs slightly on the inside body of the HS captive guides


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

bionicman, chain guide part on the Hammerschmidt must be adjustable. I wish I could tell more but my first HS unit is in transit to me right now.


----------



## coot271 (Sep 15, 2010)

Ok, I'm jumping into the 1x9 setup and I need a few answers. First, I have a Motobecane Outcast 29er setup as a SS. I took a SRAM cassette off of my other bike (26er) and will use it on my 29er. The cassette is 11-26t and I presently have a 32t ring up front. Is the SRAM cass good enough for the larger tire diameter, or do I need one that has a taller gear ratio? (maybe 11-32t?) Also, my chainline is way off...it rides closer to the larger rings....how do I adjust the crank/ring to align it to the center of the cassette? BTW, the cranks are a truvativ setup...cheapest one. Thanks for any help....I get more good help from these forums than I do from my LBS!!!!!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Also, my chainline is way off...it rides closer to the larger rings....how do I adjust the crank/ring to align it to the center of the cassette? BTW, the cranks are a truvativ setup...cheapest one.


Sounds like a 3-piece crankset with too short BB spindle length.


----------



## bengxe (Oct 11, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Is the SRAM cass good enough for the larger tire diameter, or do I need one that has a taller gear ratio? (maybe 11-32t?)


Most people use an 11-32 or 11-34, 11-26 is generally considered a road cassette. The only cassette I know of thats marketed as 29er specific is a 12-36. You might not have a problem with the 11-26 if you're used to the SS.


----------



## Aaron1017 (Jun 1, 2010)

Homebrew Components 34T Chainring
SRAM PG-990 Cassette 
XTR M970 Medium Cage
XTR M960 FD as a guide
XTR M960 cut and polish cranks

Never a problem dropping the chain with the SS Chainring and FD as a guide. Not worth selling it and spending the money on a fancy guide. Its locked into place using the adjustment screws.


----------



## jrs67 (Dec 6, 2010)

love that '95 stumpy.and your set up..whats it weigh?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Why, that looks like Giant NRS.


----------



## GrantB (Jan 10, 2004)

Aaron1017....how do you like the aluminum der. pulleys? Are they actually wearing longer than stock?


----------



## Aaron1017 (Jun 1, 2010)

GrantB said:


> Aaron1017....how do you like the aluminum der. pulleys? Are they actually wearing longer than stock?


Havent had them long enough to tell. I had them on my old derailleur and put them on the new one. The work just fine and the price was right.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Here's a new 1x10 on my moto fly 29er.

XX cassette
X9 RD
X9 shifter
Gamut ring
paul keeper
kmc x10 sl


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

Very Very nice setup!!! im looking to revamp my 1x9 soon !!



92gli said:


> Here's a new 1x10 on my moto fly 29er.
> 
> XX cassette
> X9 RD
> ...


----------



## josep1987 (Nov 6, 2010)

Just a quickie i run 1x9 with a 40t is this odd? just i cant understand why every one has such a small chainring upfront, is it because you cant fit a big ring on the middle position on the cranks, getting the best chainline ????


----------



## og1 (Mar 3, 2008)

josep1987 said:


> Just a quickie i run 1x9 with a 40t is this odd? just i cant understand why every one has such a small chainring upfront, is it because you cant fit a big ring on the middle position on the cranks, getting the best chainline ????


climbing with a 40t is less than amazing. at least for me, maybe i am a wuss


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

josep1987 said:


> Just a quickie i run 1x9 with a 40t is this odd? just i cant understand why every one has such a small chainring upfront, is it because you cant fit a big ring on the middle position on the cranks, getting the best chainline ????


completely depends on where you ride and what style of riding you do. For xc with moderate climbing and moderate dh, 32t ring x 32t cog or 32x34 makes for good climbing gears without huge amounts of pain and 32x11 is more than enough top speed. For riding with more flats or more dedicated DH it makes sense to use a larger ring for more top-end speed and sacrifice some climbing ability to do so. For lots of climbing or slow techy climbing others will sacrifice speed with a 30t or even 28t ring


----------



## hardtailkid (Jan 25, 2010)

Ok, so here's my situation. I just got a Jamis Kromo and I want to go 1x9. I'm pretty sure (80%) that I want to go with SRAM, rather than Shimano. I have Shimano on my other bike, and want tot try something different. I see SRAM on a metric *****load of DJ/4x bikes and it is better for someone on a budget. Sounds easy? HAHA.

Now here's the catch:
I want to do it for under $200. $250 absolute max.
I will probably need a new crankset. I am looking at this little number. And then I will be looking at 2010 X.7 stuff. I am looking at this shifter, and this derailleur. As for a chainguide, I am clueless. It looks relatively easy to do a ghetto-guide but I don't know if it is really worth spending so damn much money on a e.13 or MRP.

What advice can you give me? Any product recommendations?

Thanks for reading through that!

-Andy


----------



## irocss85 (Aug 10, 2009)

you will love the switch to SRAM. I came from an alivio 8sp setup and have no regrets. I did have to take it in to get the gears adj. to properly shift but he had it tuned in about 5 min.s from my best (failing) effort. 
anyways, I recomend the ethirteen LS-HT guide. since your swapping the cranks anyways. make sure to get the non iscg one though if you dont have those tabs on the BB. I want to say I paid $45??? cant find the receipt. I did have to put a washer/spacer in between the upper guide cage to widen it though cause it would either rub on the inside, or the outside trying to adj. it in our out. dont forget a new cable though.


----------



## dethzep (Jan 15, 2011)

just finished my setup and a fancy new paintjob


----------



## PolePitch (Jan 13, 2011)

Here's mine:
Specialized Pitch Pro 09
Nuke proof Warhead seat post (getting the matching stem soon)
Funn Fatboy Handlebars
ODI X-trainer Grips
e.thirteen XCX chain guide with 32T ring (will go to 36T when i have got used to it)
The rest is pretty standard tho 

(excuse the massive file name...)


----------



## SnowStorm (Dec 14, 2008)

Sorry if this is a stupid question. (tried a search on this thread for an answer)

If I am converting an XT crank to a 1x9. Do I need to buy new crank bolts to affix the ring? If so, does anyone know the exact bolts I would need (would like to buy some purdy ones from torontocycles)?

I will start by just running the stock middle ring unless this will be a problem.

Thanks.


----------



## htfu_aaron (Aug 31, 2010)

You need single speed/BMX chainring bolts, or a set of washers to take up the slack in the bolts that are currently holding you big and middle rings.


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

if you are crafty, you can shave down the chainring " nut " so that the bolt will fit it, and grab about 2 or 3 washers, thats what i did


----------



## htfu_aaron (Aug 31, 2010)

XT crank
RaceFace 32t ring
e*thirteen XCX-ST 
KMC X9 SL
X0 GripShift and RD
XT 11-32


----------



## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

josep1987 said:


> Just a quickie i run 1x9 with a 40t is this odd? just i cant understand why every one has such a small chainring upfront, is it because you cant fit a big ring on the middle position on the cranks, getting the best chainline ????


Because some of us ride in places where every ride begins with an hour long climb. AND, I can't say I've ever wished I had a 40t up front for DHing on my xc bike. You'd have to be a freakin monster to ride with a 40t around these parts.


----------



## bikerboyj17 (Dec 18, 2007)

hardtailkid said:


> Ok, so here's my situation. I just got a Jamis Kromo and I want to go 1x9. I'm pretty sure (80%) that I want to go with SRAM, rather than Shimano. I have Shimano on my other bike, and want tot try something different. I see SRAM on a metric *****load of DJ/4x bikes and it is better for someone on a budget. Sounds easy? HAHA.
> 
> Now here's the catch:
> I want to do it for under $200. $250 absolute max.
> ...


Why a new crankset? What do you have on there now? Keeping your current crank would save you half your budget Bashguard and a chain watcher on the inside is slightly cheaper than the mrp/e.thirteen setup.


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

go to bbgbashguard.com.

for $36 tax total and shipped you can get an awesome BBG bashwich!


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

nmnmnmn


----------



## littlepitboy (Apr 4, 2010)

is that an x9 10spd rd? working with a 9spd x9 shifter????


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

littlepitboy said:


> is that an x9 10spd rd? working with a 9spd x9 shifter????


nope, ten speed for both.


----------



## nickfrog (Jun 27, 2010)

XTR M950 cranks with Homebrewed 29t ring. 11-34 SRAM 990 cassette...

Low gearing but I am old so it's near perfect for the South Downs in Sussex, UK.

No device and zero chain drops despite technical single track use...


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

scrublover, my congratulations!
Do you think a 30T ring will work with a Granny God?

I've been thinking of a very similar (29 or 30T, external BB crankset) setup for my Spesh, but I can't get away with a large granny because of that 6 mm offset rear triangle. Unless... unless I pick up a 26-36-48T XT crankset, which has longer shaft than plain XT 770. Some guys put that crankset on their IH 6 Points (83 mm BB shell) for 1xN drivetrains.

For the chainguide, hmmm... I could go your route, or modify some one-piece bash-style guide to bring wearplates closer to the Granny God.


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

J. Random Psycho said:


> scrublover, my congratulations!
> Do you think a 30T ring will work with a Granny God?
> 
> I've been thinking of a very similar (29 or 30T, external BB crankset) setup for my Spesh, but I can't get away with a large granny because of that 6 mm offset rear triangle. Unless... unless I pick up a 26-36-48T XT crankset, which has longer shaft than plain XT 770. Some guys put that crankset on their IH 6 Points (83 mm BB shell) for 1xN drivetrains.
> ...


The 30T may be really close. I'll find out.  If not, I either stick with the 28t.

I was looking at some of the MRP and e.13 guide offerings with the built in taco bash, thinking they'd be easy enough to make work. Got enough spare crap in my parts bin though that surely something can be worked up, so don't really need to buy anything else.

Weather and trail conditions are crap right now, so tinkering keeps me busy at least.


----------



## josep1987 (Nov 6, 2010)

Posted before but here is some updated pics. Loving 1x9 probally converted about 2-3 months ago and since having the ethirteen guide haven't dropped the chain once, its a 40t chainring which seems a rare size for this type of setup, but i need a little bit more on the roads.


felt trail shot 1,9 by jreidy1987, on Flickr








[/url]
IMG_1961 by jreidy1987, on Flickr


IMG_1963 by jreidy1987, on Flickr


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

*My Dawes Bullseye*

A Bullseye 29. Stock ss and rigid. Now with a Tora TK fork, Juicy 5s, and XT/Sram drivetrain.


----------



## onelove1240 (Mar 12, 2008)

posted this in the AM bikes but thought i'd post it in here not done yet .... threw on old brake and pedals couldn't wait to ride it around the streets


----------



## chris1911 (May 26, 2009)

XT crank w/ Niner single speedring (32T)
XT mid cage derailleur
XT cassette (11-34)
XT shifter
XTR chain
MRP 1x chain guide


----------



## sparky909 (Jan 19, 2011)

Chris1911....beautiful build!!


----------



## sparky909 (Jan 19, 2011)

Bander set up as a 1x10 (hope that is OK in this thread)
Blackspire bashwich/cranks
XO med cage RD
shifts like a dream...quiet and smooth...
What do you guys think?


----------



## jasonwfreak (May 14, 2010)

First post 










My ride  2010 Van Nicholas Tuareg

Polished Silver RaceFace Deus XC 175mm cranks
Gamut 36T Race Rings
MRP 1.X
With a 9-speed X9 rear


----------



## Restoman (Feb 21, 2009)

Finally got my parts in.

E*13 guidering 32 tooth
Sette single ring bolts
X.7 Sram short cage rear derailleur

Spiced things up with a new Evo Sette saddle, and some Rogue ODI grips with gold rings. It wasn't until my last bit of parts finally came in that I realized the E*13 XCX guide was not ordered!!! We it looks like I might be okay for now. I can always add one later.


----------



## 7hz (Feb 1, 2007)

Anyone run the K-Edge Cross Single Chain Catcher with any success?

Would I need an outer bash for this setup? Looking to get away with as minimal a setup as possible for 1x9.


----------



## bloo (Apr 2, 2008)

man there are some nice bikes with cool setups in here!

finally converted my Dillinger to 1x9 and worked great with a Paul Chain Keeper
here are a couple of not so great photo pics


----------



## hardtailkid (Jan 25, 2010)

By this time next week, I might have a 1x9 to post pictures of. 

Until then, what are your guys opinions on the X.7 vs. X.9 debate? I have the money now to get a Hussefelt crankset, a 11-26t PG-950 cassette, X.7 shifters and short cage derailleur, and a PC-971 chain but I don't know if it is worth waiting another month or two and saving up get the X.9 shifter and short cage derailleur. 
What do you guys think? The stuff will be going on my DJ/Street bike, but it won't be taking much of a beating. I require quick shifting and the short cage should fulfill that.


----------



## chris1911 (May 26, 2009)

sparky909 said:


> Chris1911....beautiful build!!


Thanks.

It now has a Racing Ralph in back and Rocket Ron in front, tubeless. Weighs 24.5 lbs.


----------



## 24v (Apr 5, 2009)

hardtailkid said:


> Until then, what are your guys opinions on the X.7 vs. X.9 debate?


I have an x7 shifter with an x9 derailleur. Works great.:thumbsup:


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

hardtailkid, if I took the SRAM route, I'd go with X.7 short cage and X.7 trigger for such bike. However, my gear of choice is Shimano Saint 810 trigger and derailer.. I'd also stay away from cheaper, pre-Shadow Shimano derailers, though (like the Tiagra rear), and from older Shimano triggers which you can't operate with thumb only.

FWIW, and especially if you're going to run a 10 mm thru-bolt hub, consider a Saint M800 rear derailer if you can find it, and a Saint *M810* trigger (these totally rock). Those M800 RDs were built like T-800 cyborgs, to withstand lots of ugly damage.


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Finally got the setup where I think it'll stay. 
















Can adjust to fit a variety of rings. Stinger BB mount guide + upper slider bit from an e.13 Freechucker guide. Lower Stinger is ISCG-05 mount. Will ride it with just the upper bits, and add the lower bits on if more security is needed. 








Lower guide has the upper bolt bits cut off - can be removed without having to pull the crank.








Upper guide just took a bit of Dremel tool work to get how I wanted.








Cheap, light, fairly adjustable to a variety of ring sizes, still lets me run a bash ring and covers the top of the chain.

Love the nice sano bar area.









Bike is sitting a touch over 27# and is a hell of a lot of fun!


----------



## Blksocks (Dec 22, 2009)

If I want to do a 1x9 or in my case, 1x8, because I'm a beast  I will need to use shorter bolts such as these since I am going to use one chain ring and MRP 1X Guide?

And if I was to use, E13 SS+ chainguide WITH bash guard, I would need to use these, double bolts because it's 1 chain ring and a bash guard?

Hope I got it right. Btw, I am going to use gxp stylo 3.3 crank set.

Also, is it possible to use a MRP 1X Guide with a regular Truvative bash guard?


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Blksocks said:


> If I want to do a 1x9 or in my case, 1x8, because I'm a beast  I will need to use shorter bolts such as these since I am going to use one chain ring and MRP 1X Guide?
> 
> *Yes, or spacers to take up the extra bit on your current bolts.*
> 
> ...


Nope, not without mods of some sort. The outer cage bits of the guide will interfere with a bash.


----------



## Blksocks (Dec 22, 2009)

scrublover said:


> Nope, not without mods of some sort. The outer cage bits of the guide will interfere with a bash.


Nvm, didn't see the bold text inside.  Ty!


----------



## littlepitboy (Apr 4, 2010)

Blksocks said:


> If I want to do a 1x9 or in my case, 1x8, because I'm a beast  I will need to use shorter bolts such as these since I am going to use one chain ring and MRP 1X Guide?
> 
> And if I was to use, E13 SS+ chainguide WITH bash guard, I would need to use these, double bolts because it's 1 chain ring and a bash guard?
> 
> ...


MRP 1x has 5 spacers included


----------



## Blksocks (Dec 22, 2009)

littlepitboy said:


> MRP 1x has 5 spacers included


Oh, so then really I can just use the bolts that come with the cranks?


----------



## littlepitboy (Apr 4, 2010)

^^^ thats what I did with mine


----------



## Blksocks (Dec 22, 2009)

littlepitboy said:


> ^^^ thats what I did with mine


Thanks! :thumbsup:


----------



## hani1 (Sep 12, 2008)

*09 Salsa Ala Carte*

Just finished the build hoping to get it out on the trial this weekend if I can fins a spot without any snow.


----------



## tturbotom (May 10, 2006)

I had to tweek my set-up. The chain line was not ideal for my riding style, LOTs of climbing. I rearranged the spacers at the crank to move the chain line to the inside gears. Hopefully this will put less stress on the chain.


----------



## ryosuke (Jan 4, 2011)

I'm running a 1x9 setup with 38T e13 chainring and an XT 11-32 cassette coupled with an XTR M971 med cage rd.

Currently using a MRP 1.X chainguide. However, I am contemplating if there is really a need for a chainguide since my chainring is rather big at 38T and the chain has already been shorten and it is tensioned by the XTR med cage rd.

Any advice from fellow 1x9ers?


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

ryosuke said:


> Currently using a MRP 1.X chainguide. However, I am contemplating if there is really a need for a chainguide since my chainring is rather big at 38T and the chain has already been shorten and it is tensioned by the XTR med cage rd.
> 
> Any advice from fellow 1x9ers?


Try it w/o the chainguide and if it drops the chain consistently, put it back on?


----------



## millsj2 (Jan 18, 2011)

E.13 Chain ring with a BBG sandwich.


----------



## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

Malibu412 said:


> Try it w/o the chainguide and if it drops the chain consistently, put it back on?


+2

I've never needed chainguides of any kind


----------



## Diamondhead (Nov 2, 2007)

millsj2 said:


> E.13 Chain ring with a BBG sandwich.


Is your inner BBG guard contacting your chainstay?


----------



## millsj2 (Jan 18, 2011)

I had to use a spacer but it's pretty close. Been on a few rides with no problems,


----------



## Diamondhead (Nov 2, 2007)

Good to hear that... Sorry to ask, it just looks a little close, that's all.

Cheers :thumbsup:


----------



## pacs1969 (Mar 26, 2010)

*My loved Haro Sonix now 1x9*

Hi,

Here some pics about my 1x9 conversion.

First:
- Stock 32t raceface middlering plus BBG bashguard and jump-stop.
- 12-36t rear cassete customized to 11-36t.










Now:
- replaced chainring with 32t truvativ singlespeed chanring.
- ligther/narrow wheels/tyres










Next:
- 30T extralite chainring?
- 38T rear cog? + shimano M770 cassette minus second cog?
- Shadow rear der + custom B-tension bolt?

Bye,

Paco


----------



## uzurpator (Dec 8, 2005)

My spesh. 1x9 with 32 front and 11-38 cassette.

The last cog is a custom job I did for this project, then a 17-34 spider from XT cassette, then 14 and 11, resulting in

11-14-17-20-23-26-30-34-38


----------



## pacs1969 (Mar 26, 2010)

*My loved Haro Sonix now 1x9*

---------deleted by autor-------


----------



## Kaizer (Jul 19, 2010)

uzurpator said:


> My spesh. 1x9 with 32 front and 11-38 cassette.
> 
> The last cog is a custom job I did for this project, then a 17-34 spider from XT cassette, then 14 and 11, resulting in
> 
> 11-14-17-20-23-26-30-34-38


Wow! Care to share the cassette secret? And you're running a road RD with it?


----------



## 24v (Apr 5, 2009)

I'm guessing he took a Shimano 12-36, and swapped the smallest cog with an 11 from another cassette. I wanted to do that, but I cannot find a 12-36 that has an aluminum carrier for the larger cogs so they won't dig into an aluminum freehub.


----------



## uzurpator (Dec 8, 2005)

That is an 11-38, not 11-36 

The composition is:
11 - from XT cassette
14 - something I had laying around
17-20-23-26-30-34 - XT 770 cassette
38 - custom job I did for myself, made in aluminum

The last cog is made in a way, so it will not destroy aluminum freehubs


----------



## 24v (Apr 5, 2009)

uzurpator said:


> That is an 11-38, not 11-36


I was talking about the post after yours. He has an 11-36. Got confused.

As for yours, do you have any pics of that 38 off of the bike? I would be curious to see how it was made that prevents damaging the freehub.


----------



## Kaizer (Jul 19, 2010)

uzurpator, is that a off the shelf Tiagra road RD or customed in a way as well? Custom RD hanger?

Been researching for road RD (cheap short cage) for a while. Seems like the consensus is that max one can run is 32 or 34T cog. Some peeps even having problem with rubbing on a 34T cog.

Do you sell those 38T as well?


----------



## santabooze (Oct 14, 2010)

Looks like someone took a 6" brake rotor and and machined some chainring teeth into it.... very ingenius. I for one would consider doing this. Props to the builder:thumbsup:


----------



## hardtailkid (Jan 25, 2010)

A little update: 

I bought the parts on Tuesday afternoon from pricepoint. The grand total was $286. Woah.

Here's what I went with:
-2010 TruVativ Hussefelt 2.2 RG (I will remove the granny ring)
-2010 X.9 Shifter
-2010 X.9 Short Cage rear derailleur
-2010 PC-971 Chain with Powerlink Gold
-2010 PG-950 11-26 Road cassette
-2010 Flak Jacket shifter cable/housing set

The goods should be here tomorrow so I will run by the LBS, borrow some tools (they are pretty good to me ) and install the stuff. I hope..


----------



## uzurpator (Dec 8, 2005)

24v:

I have integrated the cog spline with the spacer. This widens the contact area of the cog with the freehub and thus protects the freehub from damage. You can see it from the rough prototype below 

Kaizer: it is a typical run of the mill Tiagra with anodized bits sticking out  The hanger is also standard. The pulleys were replaced from 11T to 10T which adds a bit of space between the cassette and the top pulley ( around 2mm  ) but that is nothing drastic. I am considering switching to a proper mtn deraileur, but currently i have no desire to do so as this arrangement seems to work fine.

I am considering making a batch of those for sale once I get all the potential problems out. But that is not set in stone.

santabooze: no such thing was done. It is a full CNC job


----------



## 24v (Apr 5, 2009)

That is a very cool design.:thumbsup:


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

santabooze said:


> Looks like someone took a 6" brake rotor and and machined some chainring teeth into it.... very ingenius. I for one would consider doing this. Props to the builder:thumbsup:


In my race car engineering days (Formula SAE) we would call a integrated brake rotor - chain ring a "sproter".


----------



## G-FOURce (Aug 21, 2010)

32T 7005 SS chainring up front
XT 11T-32T cassette and X9 long cage out back


----------



## plussa (Jul 12, 2005)

Converted my Pace to 1x9 recently:










eThirteen XCX-ST with Gusset 34t ring. I had to use a grinder to make the ring thinner, could not get the chainline right otherwise. The ring was originally 5mm thick...
I had to use the ST model because of 73mm bb shell and wide suspension linkage.










Short cage x.9 and 11-32 XT cassette. Just noticed that my short cage of my X.9 differs from others seen here...  
I might change the cassette to red SRAM PG-990 11-34 to match the red Hope hubs...










I love how quiet my bike is now over rough stuff. Lighter weight and cleaner look come as a bonus too. I was using the middle ring 95% of riding anyway.:thumbsup:


----------



## GT boy (Dec 8, 2010)

plussa said:


> I might change the cassette to red SRAM PG-990 11-34 to match the red Hope hubs...


It wont match, the Sram red anodising is very pink and your hubs look a good stong red. might not look good.


----------



## Clones123 (Apr 29, 2010)

Here's my 2010 Access XCL 9r converted to 1 x9 via a Paul Components Chain Keeper with which I've had zero problems. I just aded a new M590 crank this week...


----------



## pacs1969 (Mar 26, 2010)

*Cant see this thread*

Solved.
Thanks.


----------



## GbrNole (Feb 13, 2008)

pacs1969 said:


> Hello,
> 
> Moderator: Why I cant see this thread?
> 
> ...


you need to set your display modes to "linear view"

follow this link: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=690713

display modes tab is in the top right corner and will send you to the bottom left of the page. choose the linear mode option.


----------



## pacs1969 (Mar 26, 2010)

GbrNole said:


> you need to set your display modes to "linear view"
> 
> follow this link: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=690713
> 
> display modes tab is in the top right corner and will send you to the bottom left of the page. choose the linear mode option.


Solved!

thanks to all!

Paco


----------



## hardtailkid (Jan 25, 2010)

I finally got my bike setup as 1x9.  Pics up Sunday hopefully. I'm about to head out of town till Saturday night.


----------



## Blksocks (Dec 22, 2009)

Posted this in the AM sub-thread.

Took off the MRP chain guide because of noise and will use it on a AM HT build. Ordered a BBG and Jump Stop. Glad I don't have to deal with a front shifter! :thumbsup:


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Blksocks said:


> Took off the MRP chain guide because of noise and will use it on a AM HT build. Ordered a BBG and Jump Stop. Glad I don't have to deal with a front shifter! :thumbsup:


Were you having excessive rubbing or rubbing beyond just the outer gears?


----------



## Blksocks (Dec 22, 2009)

boomn said:


> Were you having excessive rubbing or rubbing beyond just the outer gears?


Yea, but, I fixed that issue by filing the inside down a bit and smoothed it out by sanding it. I should have gotten the e13 low clamp xcx or w/e the hell the outrageous priced chain guide is called because any BB guide would rub against the swing arm and having it tilted around the front looked really corny. :skep:


----------



## kitts21j (Feb 25, 2011)

All right I'm buying in. I'm in the process of doing some updates to my bike and have decided to go the 1x8 route. I just have a couple of questions. 1st. I plan on using all my orig. parts from my bike now (economy build)- Sugino crank and middle ring 32T and stock 11-30 stx-rc cassette. Now my thinking behind this is that it is what I currently run, I very rarely move out of my middle ring and I have used the cassette for the last 12 yrs. with out an issues. Does that seem logical? I don't need to get a new rear cassette if I'm use to this one right? Also will I have issues with the stock 32T since it is ramped? And besides the ramps, what are the difference between them and a SS ring? I know there are 24 pages to get this info from, but by the 3rd page my ADD kicks in and I just end up looking at all the pictures


----------



## tp806 (Nov 13, 2008)

*Nomad on a 1x9 diet!*

I decided to put the bike on a diet too. Below are the results. 
Single ring and color coded bits!!! 
Suggestions/comments for improvements are welcomed.


----------



## AnteXTC (Jan 31, 2011)




----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

tp806, that Nomad looks legit!

There are only minor details that I would improve on, like QR clamp vs adjustable post, derailer cage being longer than needed, and the green bits.

How do you like the Silent Guide? I'm especially curious how does the lower piece do in the long run.


----------



## tp806 (Nov 13, 2008)

J. Random Psycho said:


> tp806, that Nomad looks legit!
> There are only minor details that I would improve on, like QR clamp vs adjustable post, derailer cage being longer than needed, and the green bits.
> How do you like the Silent Guide? I'm especially curious how does the lower piece do in the long run.


Hey J.RP, I have still the QR seat clamp, since I want to be able toy use it with my back up, Thomson Elite post.

Rear deraileur is the Saint GS (medium) since this will work with an up to 11-34T cassette.
The short one (SGS) is mainly for full DH application working with only 11-28T.
The green bits I will remove probably next month, cause I want to run it a bit more and since how the guide behaves generally and I don't really look at them while riding on the trails.
First ride today and the Silent guide really is much quieter than an E13 Heim 3RS I used to run. It does work like a charm as advertised, but more testing is needed to give a fully educated opinion.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

tp806 said:


> Rear deraileur is the Saint GS (medium) since this will work with an up to 11-34T cassette.
> The short one (SGS) is mainly for full DH application working with only 11-28T.


the short cage model is actually compatible with 11-34t cassettes too. Both models are switchable between a normal mountain cassette mode and a mode that tracks closer to the cassette and can only clear a 28t


----------



## hardtailkid (Jan 25, 2010)

I am now...









Let's start the tour at the Hussefelt Crankset... The things were inexpensive, but they are such an improvement over the BMX crap that was on there. 









Making things smooth, we have a TruVativ Howitzer team bottom bracket. 









And now we go up to the cockpit. I love my X.9 shifter! I need new grips without flanges. 









Working their way towards the arse end of the bike, here are the cables/housing. It is a SRAM Flak Jacket fully sealed kit. 









Here is the beautiful SRAM X.9 short cage rear derailleur. 









If you take your eyes off of the derailleur, you can see the SRAM PG-950 cassette. I wanted really crisp shifting, so I went with an 11-26 road cassette. The chain is a SRAM Pc-971 with a gold PowerLink.









I'm sooo glad I can finally post my bike in this thread. I love having 1x9. I'm thinking of taking 2 rings off of my other bike and going 1x8. It's great not having to worry about the front derailleur. Less things to go wrong when you have 1x9.


----------



## Affe (Dec 4, 2007)

Nice pics!! :thumbsup:


----------



## hardtailkid (Jan 25, 2010)

Affe said:


> Nice pics!! :thumbsup:


Thanks! 

I'm finally getting used to this camera. Big step up from my Rebel.


----------



## Clones123 (Apr 29, 2010)

*2009 GT Avalanche 2.0*

My own bike is a few posts up and this is my oldest son's bike. I've been meaning to take some photos of it now that we've finished the upgrades.

This is a XS-sized 2009 carry-over model that we bought last year from Performance Bicycle on clearance for just $251 after discounts. 
It was a V-brake model originally to which we added a new yet crazy inexpensive Mavic CrossRide wheelset plus some used take-off parts 
I had; Kenda K-831 Dual Sport 26x2.2 tires, Avid BB5 mechanical disc brakes, and a TruVativ Five-D crankset (run 1x8 with a Paul 
Components Chain Keeper). His take off parts - Alex V-brake wheels, Tektro brakes and Shimano crankset - go onto my vacation bike.

I would have done nearly anything to have a bike remotely like this when I was a kid myself. Shoot, I would have done backflips to have
a bike this nice just a couple of years ago! Complete with a nice hydraulic lock-out fork, this bike is far better than what you could buy from
the nearby Trek store for more than twice what we have in it.

With all their computers and game consoles and iPods, kids these days don't know how good they've got it.


----------



## rrdiaz30 (Jun 8, 2010)

*1999 Dean Colonel 1x9 Conversion*

I just finished a 1x9 conversion of my trusted 1999 Dean Colonel. John at Dean USA welded on the brake tabs and James Flatman at Alchemy Bicycle Co. did some cable boss mods. This is her 3rd major rebuild in 12 years. I blinged her out with some Moots and Eriksen Ti components and a Dean fork. It's all XT. BBG guard on an E-Thirteen 32T chainwheel. First ride tonight for a shakedown.














































Cheers...Rick


----------



## Hardguy (Nov 4, 2006)

rrdiaz30 said:


> I just finished a 1x9 conversion of my trusted 1999 Dean Colonel. John at Dean USA welded on the brake tabs and James Flatman at Alchemy Bicycle Co. did some cable boss mods. This is her 3rd major rebuild in 12 years. I blinged her out with some Moots and Eriksen Ti components and a Dean/Blacksheep fork. It's all XT. BBG guard on the 32T chainwheel. First ride tonight for a shakedown.
> Cheers...Rick


Wow Rick, more pics please. I have almost the exact frame (few years older w/ canti hangers) sitting in my garage waiting for parts to build a 1X9 commuter also. Just waiting for my headset, rear derailleur, and chain in the mail. I'm using v-brakes though and been hunting for some Avid ultimate levers. Can you please tell me how much was the cost of having Dean weld on the disc tabs? I'd like to go w/ disc brakes if it's within my budget. Also is that a Dean ti fork or Blacksheep? Thank you, Rick.


----------



## rrdiaz30 (Jun 8, 2010)

John at Dean charged me $275.00 for the rear disc brake conversion, and $50.00 to remove the cantilever bosses. Well worth it since I bought this frame cheap in 2000. Guy's were dumping their hardtails then as full suspension was all the rage. It is the titanium mountain fork sold by Dean. I'll post more pics in the morning. PM me if you want more details. I REALLY love this frame.

Rick


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

A Ti frame somehow assists in making a bike look clean.

rrdiaz30, have you installed a Chris King Griplock on there? The feng-shui of your build is calling for it. )


----------



## Spok75 (Mar 13, 2009)

*My '97 Kona Hahanna*

Here's my '97 Kona Hahanna!

She's my cafe racer  It was a singlespeed with a magic gear of 34-17, but then my knee started to go bad. Now she's a 1x9 of 34t up front and an 11-34t rear. The forks are DMR Trailblades. I love the ride so solid and the shifting is so crisp! I've never had such clean shifts even on my bikes equiped with XTR!

Anywho enjoy! I'm lovin' all this retro Kona love!

Up soon will be a '91 Kona Fire Mountain once I clean her up!

Specs:
Frame: 17" Kona Hahanna
Fork: DMR Trailblade

Headset: WTB Momentum Comp
Stem: RaceFace Prodigy
Handlebar: MEC Riser
Grips: Specialized Body Geometry

Brake Caliper: Magura Marta
Brake Lever: Magura Louise

Shifters: Shimano Saint
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore
Derailleur Cables: Shimano SLX
Cassette: Shimano XT 11-34t
Chain: SRAM 970
Cranks: Truvativ Stylo
Chainring: BlackSpire 34t
Bash Ring: RaceFace Bash Ring
Bottom Bracket: RaceFace ISIS
Pedals: DMR V8
Bottle Cage: Specialized Bottle Cage Circa 1989 < From my first GF Wink >

Hub Skewers: Shimano XT
Rims: Mavic X317
Hubs: Formula Disk
Nipples: DT
Spokes: DT
Tyres: Michelin Mountain Dry 2
Tubes: Continental

Saddle: WTB Pure V
Seatpost: RaceFace
Seatpost Binder: Kona

Weight: Dunno Yet


----------



## OS cuda' (Aug 10, 2005)

heres my 07 sworks enduro.


----------



## bbrins (Nov 2, 2009)

Here is one of my 1992 RockHoppers

I'm using a Surly 36 tooth chainring, Shimano SLX medium cage derailleur, Paul chain keeper, SRAM 970 chain, and a SRAM 971 11-32 cassette.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

rrdiaz30 said:


> I just finished a 1x9 conversion of my trusted 1999 Dean Colonel. John at Dean USA welded on the brake tabs and James Flatman at Alchemy Bicycle Co. did some cable boss mods. This is her 3rd major rebuild in 12 years. I blinged her out with some Moots and Eriksen Ti components and a Dean fork. It's all XT. BBG guard on an E-Thirteen 32T chainwheel. First ride tonight for a shakedown.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Very nice! How much does it weigh?


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

Here's mine.










Thought I'd set this up from a SS setup to a 1x9 setup with Sram PG990 Cassette, XT 9 Speed Shifters, Rear Mech and an e13 XCX chain guide.

I now have my SS 29r Rigid Soul Cycles Hooligan, this 1x9 Orange P7 and a fully geared Santa Cruz Nickel waiting in the shop for me, my life is almost complete! LOL


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

Alright, all done reading through the threads.

I have a 2011 Cannondale Trail Five.

80% road cycling with road tires and 20% trails with trail tires.

I got rid of my front derailleur yesterday and am debating on what chainring I should get. I was hitnking of getting 40t. Your thoughts?

I was thinking of keeping on my rear cassette and derailleur for now and upgrading when I have the funds and more knowledge.

My current crankset is a Shimano FC-M311 42/32/22. I will go out road riding tonight to see what chainring size I prefer. 32T is just too small for my road riding.

All your bikes look awesome! Can't wait until I start upgrading mine and will post up pics.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

llckll said:


> Alright, all done reading through the threads.
> 
> I have a 2011 Cannondale Trail Five.
> 
> ...


I have the same question.

Lets see some pics of it.


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> I have the same question.
> 
> Lets see some pics of it.


I will take some pics tonight and post it up.


----------



## Clones123 (Apr 29, 2010)

llckll said:


> I got rid of my front derailleur yesterday and am debating on what chainring I should get. I was hitnking of getting 40t....My current crankset is a Shimano FC-M311 42/32/22. I will go out road riding tonight to see what chainring size I prefer. 32T is just too small for my road riding.


I thought the *Shimano FC-M311* was a welded and pressed on triple. My son's bike had one and I had to give him my TruVativ Five-D crank so he could go 1x9. I then got myself a Deore M590 Hollowtech II crankset for my 1x9.

Yup, just checked - it's a FC-M311.


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

Clones123 said:


> I thought the *Shimano FC-M311* was a welded and pressed on triple. My son's bike had one and I had to give him my TruVativ Five-D crank so he could go 1x9. I then got myself a Deore M590 Hollowtech II crankset for my 1x9.
> 
> Yup, just checked - it's a FC-M311.


If that's the case, I will need a new crankset. I will probably stick with 38T, 40T or 42T.

Here are the pics:





































This is my rear derailleur. It is an 8 speed and I believe it's 11-32. Will upgrade when I get the chance.


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

I also removed two chain links before taking it for a spin. Rides much better with a tighter tension on the chain. Once I upgrade the crankset, I will upgrade the chain as well.


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

Does anyone know what size bottom bracket I have? Not sure If I can use the existing BB with a new single-speed crankset or if I'll have to upgrade that as well. The specs says it's this: Tange Seiki LN-3912


----------



## Hardguy (Nov 4, 2006)

If you mean the length of the spindle, you would have to take your crank arms off to take a look. The length should be engraved into the spindle somewhere. 107mm, 110mm, 113mm or something like that.


----------



## detroitmike (Aug 1, 2010)

*1x9 Steel*

Threw parts on this old frame. Forgot how good steel rides.









1998 Trek 930, Surly fork


----------



## ADDam (Jun 7, 2008)

SLX Crank deanodised
Niner 32t Chainring
KMC X9 SL Chain
X0 Short Cage Derailleur 
XTR 12-34 Cassette
MRP 1x BB Mount Chainguide...


----------



## Solo Bellimino (Feb 19, 2011)

Access XCL 9er frame/Misfit fork

X-9 shifter and derailleur
PG990 cassette
Race Face crank
WTB Speed disc rims with dt spokes and Chris King hubs
Continental Mountain King tires
Avid BB7 brakes with Speed Dial SL levers


----------



## Kaizer (Jul 19, 2010)

ADDam said:


> SLX Crank deanodised
> Niner 32t Chainring
> KMC X9 SL Chain
> X0 Short Cage Derailleur
> ...


Whoa! That's sweet looking crank! How did you deanodize it? Also notice the spider's in black, you repainted it afterwards?


----------



## ADDam (Jun 7, 2008)

Kaizer said:


> Whoa! That's sweet looking crank! How did you deanodize it? Also notice the spider's in black, you repainted it afterwards?


That's an SLX crankset. The spider appears to be powdercoated, so the de-anodizing process did not effect it at all.


----------



## liv_rong (Apr 11, 2008)

My first 1x9. I figured I might as well do the conversion since I rarely ever shifted out of the middle ring. It turned out ok, the real test though will be on some dirt. I had some problems with the jump stop not wanting to fit around my seat tube because of the frame construction but I just got a longer bolt from the hardware store. The chainline doesnt seem ideal but it is the same as it was when it was a 3x9, so Im hoping it doesnt cause me any problems on the trails. I also swapped out the long cage for a medium cage, even though there seems to be some debate on whether or not it is necessary. The test ride around my neighborhood seemed to be fine.


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

llckll said:


> If that's the case, I will need a new crankset. I will probably stick with 38T, 40T or 42T.
> 
> Here are the pics:
> 
> ...


I just purchased a Race Face SS Crank which should be delivered today: https://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CR267A19-Race+Face+Evolve+Ss+Crankset+11.aspx?sc=FRGL

My question is, can I use my existing bottom bracket and just replace the crankset? My existing BB is pretty new since I only had the bike since December and only took it out a handful of times. I was thinking to save the new BB and replace it down the line when I need to.


----------



## Hardguy (Nov 4, 2006)

Unfortunately no. From looking at your pics, your existing bottom bracket and crankset is a square taper type and the new Race Face crankset you ordered is a x-drive system which is a type of more current outboard format. Just pull the old cranks and bottom bracket off and slap the new set on and go ride. :thumbsup:


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

Hardguy said:


> Unfortunately no. From looking at your pics, your existing bottom bracket and crankset is a square taper type and the new Race Face crankset you ordered is a x-drive system which is a type of more current outboard format. Just pull the old cranks and bottom bracket off and slap the new set on and go ride. :thumbsup:


Will I need a spline tool?


----------



## Hardguy (Nov 4, 2006)

llckll said:


> Will I need a spline tool?


You will need for old crankset:
a square taper crank puller
a bottom bracket tool for square taper/ISIS 20 tooth, I think.

Then you will need for new crankset:
a bottom bracket tool for RaceFAce/Truvative/Shimano Hollowtech, 16 tooth, I think.
and maybe a chain tool if the old and new chainrings are different sizes.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

rrdiaz30 said:


>


You have an eye for putting together bad ass bikes. :thumbsup:


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

92gli said:


> You have an eye for putting together bad ass bikes. :thumbsup:


+1 on that! Those grips are cool. It would be nice to see a seat that matched.


----------



## kitts21j (Feb 25, 2011)

Well finaly got it back from powder coat and built up last night. I still ned to get a new set of grips for it also going to run all new cables. I just threw the old ones back on so I could get a quick ride in on it. I called my LBS and they have a Paul chain guide on order for me. Boy do I love the 1x look. This is a 1X8 from my stock parts going to see how I like it before I upgrade to much. Enjoy
















This is what it did look like


----------



## rcp916 (Aug 27, 2010)

oops


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

llckll said:


> I just purchased a Race Face SS Crank which should be delivered today: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CR267A19-Race+Face+Evolve+Ss+Crankset+11.aspx?sc=FRGL
> 
> My question is, can I use my existing bottom bracket and just replace the crankset? My existing BB is pretty new since I only had the bike since December and only took it out a handful of times. I was thinking to save the new BB and replace it down the line when I need to.


Any special method to remove the crank? I have the allen key that fits, but that thing is on there tight!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

llckll, I'm not 100% sure about your RF Evolve crankset, but it looks like typical self-extracting drive side RF setup. That is, you just unscrew the bolt and it pulls the crank with it.

Or are you asking about how to remove your old cranks? On Shimano square taper cranksets, you have to unscrew the large allen bolt (crank stays in place), thread a square taper compatible (small cap) crank puller into crank body and screw its center piece in. It bottoms out on BB shaft and pulls the crank off.


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

Sorry for not clarifying. I'm trying to remove the old crank using an allen key. I'm not strong enough. Time to eat a can of spinach.


----------



## Hardguy (Nov 4, 2006)

llckll said:


> Sorry for not clarifying. I'm trying to remove the old crank using an allen key. I'm not strong enough. Time to eat a can of spinach.


F**k the spinach. Use the spinach money to buy some right tools.

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10...ls&cName=Ratchets+&+Sockets&keyword=8mm+allen


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

llckll said:


> Any special method to remove the crank? I have the allen key that fits, but that thing is on there tight!


Have you been able to remove the Allen head caps from each crank arm? If not, then yes you will need an Allen tool that is longer so you can get more leverage. Either a short piece of cheater pipe on your Allen key or a tool like hardguy posted that will fit on your ratchet drive.

Removing these caps will not remove the cranks, though. For that, you need a square taper compatible crank removal tool.










It looks like the new crankset you have coming has a bottom bracket included so no need to try to reuse the old one. It is not compatible anyway. Save it for spare parts along with the old cranks. You will need a Shimano bottom bracket tool to remove the BB. It looks like this and is available online or at your local shop.










Start with removing the BB cup on the non-drive side and remember it has reversed threads. Then, once that cup is out of the way, use the same tool to remove the BB unit from the drive side -- standard direction threads.

Install your new BB and crank as per the instructions.


----------



## seemlessstate (Apr 3, 2011)

Currently building my Superlight as 1x9.

Rear is XT

Front set-up is a Truvativ Stylo with a 32T ring. Sometimes (I run a 34t)

I moved the stock aluminum outer bash guard to the inside, and mounted another plastic bash (of unknown origin) to the outside.

I havent run this setup on the SC yet, but had it for two years on my nothing stock Rockhopper, and 95% of the time it worked flawlessly. over big drops, it would rarely drop the chain inward.

I live in florida, and 27 speeds is almost completely useless. I almost never shift out of the middle ring.

I ride in up-state NY for the summers, and sometimes I switch back to the XT 3 ring crank for the granny gear, but rarely need it.

and now they want me to go to 3x10


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Those single pivot SCs are beautiful in their latest revisions..


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

seemlesstate said:


> and now they want me to go to 3x10


Who's "they"? Voices ...in your head? Mice in your pocket?


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

Malibu412 said:


> Have you been able to remove the Allen head caps from each crank arm? If not, then yes you will need an Allen tool that is longer so you can get more leverage. Either a short piece of cheater pipe on your Allen key or a tool like hardguy posted that will fit on your ratchet drive.
> 
> Removing these caps will not remove the cranks, though. For that, you need a square taper compatible crank removal tool.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the recommended tools. For the bottom 
bracket tool, is it one size fits all? Will it work on my old bracket and new one?


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

@ llckll:

Yes, the same BB tool should work for both old and new.


----------



## Hardguy (Nov 4, 2006)

llckll said:


> I just purchased a Race Face SS Crank which should be delivered today: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CR267A19-Race+Face+Evolve+Ss+Crankset+11.aspx?sc=FRGL
> 
> Thanks for the recommended tools. For the bottom
> bracket tool, is it one size fits all? Will it work on my old bracket and new one?





Malibu412 said:


> @ llckll:
> 
> Yes, the same BB tool should work for both old and new.


 :nono:

Nope, the bottom bracket tool that Malibu412 recommended is only to take your old square tapered bottom bracket off. Since you bought a crankset with a x-type bottom bracket, you will need a bottom bracket tool also that is made for x-type bottom brackets to install your new bottom bracket. The one w/ blue handle is BBT-9 and the black one for 3/8 socket drive is BBT-19. Both are from Park Tool, either one of these below will do.


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

Hardguy is right (thanks). I wasn't thinking external BB. :madman: You'll have a decent set of BB tools when this is all done :thumbsup:


----------



## seemlessstate (Apr 3, 2011)

Malibu412 said:


> Who's "they"? Voices ...in your head? Mice in your pocket?


close, its the mice in my head


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

seemlessstate said:


> close, its the mice in my head


Right, because the voices in my pocket are all out against 3x10 or 2x10. They are divided about 50/50 on 1x10, however.


----------



## kitts21j (Feb 25, 2011)

Recent purchases to finish up my 1X8 conversion. A Third Eye chain watcher and a Salsa bashring. The owner at my LBS gave me a good deal on the salsa because it is for a 5 bolt spider and they are not moving very fast. So I get home and install the 3rd eye and it looks great, Then I try the bash guard and not so great. 

















No matter how I tried I could not get the space on the bashring to match up with my crank arm. Will it be ok like this? Or should I take it back and see what they can do? thaks for the input. I have not been able to find anything on the fourms about this so I hope someone here can help.


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

kitts21j said:


> Will it be ok like this? Or should I take it back and see what they can do? thaks for the input. I have not been able to find anything on the fourms about this so I hope someone here can help.


You have a bash guard that works with a crank like this.










Not much a shop can do other than sell you a different bash guard or a crank style like the one pictured. Should be okay as that is a small open or vulnerable area for that chain ring. Looks a little goofy, is all.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

kitts21j said:


> No matter how I tried I could not get the space on the bashring to match up with my crank arm. Will it be ok like this? Or should I take it back and see what they can do? thaks for the input. I have not been able to find anything on the fourms about this so I hope someone here can help.


I would rotate the bashguard one position counterclockwise, so the gap was above the crank in that picture instead of below it. It would be extremely unlikely to hit anything with the gap in that position.


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

nm..


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

Indiefab said:


> I would rotate the bashguard one position counterclockwise, so the gap was above the crank in that picture instead of below it. It would be extremely unlikely to hit anything with the gap in that position.


+1 , was thinking the same thing


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

So I need these tools:

Park Tool BBT-9
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/TL702B01-Park+Bbt-9+Bottom+Bracket+Tool.aspx

Park Tool BBT-22
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/TL402B03-Park+Tool+Bbt-22+Bottom+Bracket+Tool.aspx

For a complete switch to my new crankset and bottom bracket?


----------



## kitts21j (Feb 25, 2011)

Thanks, guys. I was thinking the same thing. I will rotate it .


----------



## Hardguy (Nov 4, 2006)

llckll said:


> So I need these tools:
> 
> Park Tool BBT-9
> http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/TL702B01-Park+Bbt-9+Bottom+Bracket+Tool.aspx
> ...


You need:


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

Hardguy said:


> You need:


Thanks. Just bought all three.


----------



## pacs1969 (Mar 26, 2010)

Hello,

my new update:
- front extralite 30t chainring
- 11-34 cassette + 38t cog - 3er cog.





































I have a problem with 30T chainring. Chain rub the spider in the first 2 cogs, I need to sand the spyder a bit more.

Paco


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

pacs1969 said:


> Hello,
> 
> my new update:
> - front extralite 30t chainring
> ...


How do you like the 38 tooth cog? How is it treating the freehub body? I want to do this but I don't want something that will dig into my FH body. Any other problems or issues?


----------



## pacs1969 (Mar 26, 2010)

Just installed. I dont know more by now.

I glued with epoxy resin the cog with its spacer to spread the load. But I will see how looks the freehub body and dedice how to proceed.

Maybe I will think about fix the 38T cog + spacer + cassette to let it work as a whole.

I will return later after some rides to share my impressions.

Paco


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Is the spacer cut to fit the groves or spines in the freehub body?


----------



## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

1x7...still count? :lol:


----------



## Wattsie (Jan 7, 2011)

*My Scott Scale 20 1 by 9*

I will put pics up of my Fuel EX 9.8 1by10 soon too


----------



## AceV (Jun 14, 2009)

*GF Mamba 1x9 Conversion*

Rode 1x9 for the first time today at Big Cedar in DFW. This is one of the more "mountain-esque" trails in this area and had no issues with just a 32T chainring up front.

If anything, I could climb without any fear of the chain slipping because of the non-ramped chainring. I normally slip the chain on steep climbs without even standing up Not any more:thumbsup:

Only dropped the chain once during the whole ride - installed the Jump Stop as soon as I got back - don't think I'll have any more issues. I had purchased a BBG Inner Ring and was going to go the bashwich route, but there was barely enough room for the outer bashguard and chainring with this frame and crankset.

Bought this bike stock (used) about a month or so ago...I've changed just about everything - I shoulda just built one from the frame up.

Stock parts remaining - frame, headset, stem, handlebars, seat and seatpost...yep, that's it.

1x9 Parts:
- RaceFace Evolve 175mm Crankset
- RaceFace Bashguard (Red)
- Blackspire 32T Mono Veloce SS Chainring
- N-Gear Jump Stop
- X0 (PG-990) Rear Cassette
- X0 Mid-Cage Rear Derailleur
- PC-991 Chain (Solid Pin)




























Other Upgrades:
- X9 Trigger Shifter 
- Avid Elixir CR brakes with G3CS rotors
- Fox F29RL 80mm Fork
- Velocity Blunt wheels with XT Hubs and XT skewers
- Kenda Nevegals DTC (tubeless)

Awaiting delivery and/or install:
- RaceFace Turbine 3/4 Riser Handlebars (Blue - the Fox fork had a 1/2" shorter steering tube than the factory Dart3 did)
- Truvativ 90mm Stem (White - needed this for the handlebars - stock stem was too small)
- Crank Brothers Candy SL Rebuild kit


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

I took off the cranks. I'm having the hardest time removing the bottom bracket with the spline tool? Any suggestions? The right side of the bike should be loosened clockwise and the left side counter? No matter how hard, it will not budge!


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

Also, does anyone know the tool that I need to lock the spline tool in place? It keeps coming off when I try hard to remove the bottom bracket.


----------



## hardtailkid (Jan 25, 2010)

1x9 was neat, but it was just soo loud.

I am now singlespeed again.


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

Starting at 2:30, what tool is he attaching to lock the spline tool in place?






I need that.


----------



## irocss85 (Aug 10, 2009)

llckll said:


> Starting at 2:30, what tool is he attaching to lock the spline tool in place?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I dont have one of those? just a splined "socket" that I use my cressent wrench on. ??? the bottom bracket shaft just spins inside the "nut" that your remo ving with the splined socket. I do know what the purpose would be to "lock" anything into place? course mines a shimano BB so maybe what you got is different? on a side note, you do need to push IN on the splined socket as your turning to prevent the tool from backing out of the nut and stripping the splines. poss. thats what that tool does?


----------



## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

llckll said:


> Starting at 2:30, what tool is he attaching to lock the spline tool in place?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I usually just put a bolt with some big washers into the axle and hold the spline tool there with it, just back that bolt out as the BB comes out other wise it will bind.

Regarding which way to turn the bb to pull it out, its different on each side (can't remember which way sorry), if you have the new bb, check the non drive side threads for how they unscrew.


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

irocss85 said:


> I dont have one of those? just a splined "socket" that I use my cressent wrench on. ??? the bottom bracket shaft just spins inside the "nut" that your remo ving with the splined socket. I do know what the purpose would be to "lock" anything into place? course mines a shimano BB so maybe what you got is different? on a side note, you do need to push IN on the splined socket as your turning to prevent the tool from backing out of the nut and stripping the splines. poss. thats what that tool does?


I'm not sure I understand what you're trying to say. But basically, my bottom bracket is on there TIGHT!!!! So yeah, the harder I try to pull, the spline tool will just pop out thus stripping the socket a little.


----------



## llckll (Dec 2, 2010)

essenmeinstuff said:


> I usually just put a bolt with some big washers into the axle and hold the spline tool there with it, just back that bolt out as the BB comes out other wise it will bind.
> 
> Regarding which way to turn the bb to pull it out, its different on each side (can't remember which way sorry), if you have the new bb, check the non drive side threads for how they unscrew.


What size bolt would I need if you have that information handy...


----------



## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

llckll said:


> What size bolt would I need if you have that information handy...


It depends on teh crank, its the crank bolt, so either use that (which is what I did) or take it to a fastener shop to get them to give you the right size.


----------



## grantpro (Mar 11, 2009)

love her


----------



## storz (Jan 31, 2011)

Ok I'm sold!

Going to go with a RaceFace Evolve SS cranket

Couple questions though. How do I determine what length spindle I need with the BB? My bike requires a 68mm bottom bracket and I intend to run an 11-34 cassette, Shimano med-cage rear der of some sort. 

Plan to use a JumpStop on the inside

Thanks!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

storz, that crankset has a spindle built in, and some spacers should come with it, which allow for some 2-3 mm chainline adjustment. As for 68 mm BB shell, the BB which comes with that crankset can handle both 68 and 73 mm shells.


----------



## taletotell (Mar 3, 2009)

I like the bbg inner bash in place of a 22 and a classic bash on the outer, making a sandwich without need of a guide. I've since gone back to a granny since I added a longer travel fork to the bike but I think I might go back to a 1 by 9 by the end of the season.


----------



## storz (Jan 31, 2011)

^ Thanks for the info

New plan

LX Hollowtech crankset from Jenson
BBG inner and outer bash rings to make a bashwich 

Ride!


----------



## canuckbiker (May 26, 2010)

Hi everyone,

After reading this thread I would like to try and go 1x9. However, I am still confused as to what I may/may not need. Can you assist me with the use of the below images?

Thanks.

~Andrew


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

The cheapest way, to see it you like it, would be: Take off small and large chain rings in the front. Shorten the chain and use the high/low adjusters on the front derailer to lock it in place. That will be your chain guide and will help keep the chain on. Then you can take off the front shifter and cable.

If you find that you like it, you can: Buy a dedicated and better working chain guide. You could replace the ramped ring with a SS ring. You could take the spyder off, if that one comes off, and put on a HB spyderless ring. Or you could put on a SS crank with a SS ring. So, if you want to spend a little you have lots of options.

Edit: You'll need a set of shorter, SS chainring bolts, to hold the middle ring in place.


----------



## Tjay (Oct 17, 2006)

Hi Everyone,

I just did my 1x9 setup last night and was wondering, does this setup (below pic) keep the chain from falling off? I would think you'd need this and then the chainguide in the bottom. Please advice.

Fyi... I have 32T/11-32/Med Cage Derr

Thanks!



ADDam said:


> SLX Crank deanodised
> Niner 32t Chainring
> KMC X9 SL Chain
> X0 Short Cage Derailleur
> ...


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Tjay said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> I just did my 1x9 setup last night and was wondering, does this setup (below pic) keep the chain from falling off? I would think you'd need this and then the chainguide in the bottom. Please advice.
> 
> ...


It should stay on, with just that. I have a setup with no chain guide and the chain stays on.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

That is as long as you don't back pedal before your shift finishes.


----------



## Drunkindonuts (Dec 4, 2010)

Considering a 1x9 set up on a 2011 HiFi Pro, but the LBS was suggesting a 10 speed setup. Just from this thread alone 1x9 seems the way to go, but is there any reason 1x10 wouldn't work just as well?


----------



## Tjay (Oct 17, 2006)

Drunkindonuts said:


> Considering a 1x9 set up on a 2011 HiFi Pro, but the LBS was suggesting a 10 speed setup. Just from this thread alone 1x9 seems the way to go, but is there any reason 1x10 wouldn't work just as well?


Hi,

If your 9spd cassette has 36T &11T, there's really no point of getting a 10 speed with 36T & 11T. The added gear is in the middle for smoother/closer shifting. I dont know it is stays smooth in muddy condition compare to 8 or 9 speed.


----------



## 661lee (Apr 11, 2007)

1x10 works great, been running it for a while now. :thumbsup:


----------



## cifex (Sep 11, 2009)

10 speed seems to be the direction the market is going. If you already have 9 speed there is little reason to upgrade now but if you are buying fresh, it makes sense to go 10 speed.


----------



## Drunkindonuts (Dec 4, 2010)

Thanks for the input. Im building this bike from a warranted frame replacement and I dont have any parts other than cranks and wheels.
This is what im thinking about using
32T Blackspire Mono Veloce chain ring.
MRP 1X chain guide Shimano FD mount
Shimano HG 81, 11-36 (SLX) cassette
Shimano 10 speed chain
Shimano XT M773 10 speed rear derailleur
Shimano M660 (SLX) rear shifter


----------



## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

I hate the whole 10 speed idea, but if I was buying new, I would have to go 10 speed. Shimano and SRAM are already giving up on 9 speed. 
The only 9 speed Shimano cassette with a 36 is the HG-61 boat anchor. The high end cassettes end at 34 tooth unless you go 10 speed.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Tjay said:


> Hi,
> 
> If your 9spd cassette has 36T &11T, there's really no point of getting a 10 speed with 36T & 11T. The added gear is in the middle for smoother/closer shifting. I dont know it is stays smooth in muddy condition compare to 8 or 9 speed.


Who make a 11-36T 9 speed cassette?


----------



## Tjay (Oct 17, 2006)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> Who make a 11-36T 9 speed cassette?


This dude.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Tjay said:


> This dude.


Yeah, but how much are they? And do the have the Shimano and SRAM reliability and durability?


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Tjay said:


> This dude.


Dude, it looks like the reliability and durability are not so good!
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=697237


----------



## Tjay (Oct 17, 2006)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> Dude, it looks like the reliability and durability are not so good!
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=697237


Looks...

I have one of his (11-32) and I'm clocking in 100 miles a week on my trail bike, in the trail since end of March. It's been smooth so far with weekly cleaning because of the mud, dirt and dust. No skipping gears here.


----------



## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> Yeah, but how much are they? And do the have the Shimano and SRAM reliability and durability?


Nice web page, with all those details and no pricing? Not a good sign. Like they say, if you have to ask, you can't afford it.


----------



## rugbyred (Aug 31, 2006)

Reading is a skill!


----------



## ironlegsracer (Feb 5, 2004)

The conversion took 14oz off the bike. 
Salsa Moto Rapido, Team SID, XT cranks, monkey lite bars, Easton carbon post, SLR seat, CrossMax SLR, Schwalbe Racing Ralph tires, XT brakes, Frog chromoly pedals.
Weighs in at 21lbs 4oz. I need an extra pair of pedals so I may get some Ti-Frogs, it would be cool getting it in the 20lb range.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

So, finally I finished my 1x9. It is 34 x 11-34. The crankset, with the ring, weighs a whopping 450 grams and it's flex free. I have another wheelset with Racing Ralphs on them, so I use it for both street and mountain.


----------



## fromthecoast (Aug 22, 2006)

oops...


----------



## ironlegsracer (Feb 5, 2004)

I like that crank/ring setup. So much I'm thinking about going with that setup. Tell me about the chainring and removing the spider.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

ironlegsracer said:


> I like that crank/ring setup. So much I'm thinking about going with that setup. Tell me about the chainring and removing the spider.


I wouldn't do it again. Before and after I bought the crankset, I emailed Dan at HBC to make sure he made a ring for it. I even sent a very close up pic of the spline and the spider that I took off. He said yes, that it is a FSA spine. I got the ring and it didn't fit. It was just a small fraction of a mm to small for the spline. But, it was the same spline shape. It also wouldn't fit my friends FSA aluminum crankset spline. Again, same shape, just a tiny bit off. At this point, I am thinking that something went wrong with the making of the ring. I contacted Dan, he told me that he would refund my money. I asked if I could send the ring along with my crank arm to see if he could make it fit. I'm thinking, because it wouldn't fit 2 FSA splines that something went wrong and that Dan could learn something from the experience. Dan, said no to that, he said that he could not make it fit. So, my friend and I went at it for about an hour with a file to open up the spine, just a very tiny bit. I got it to fit and it's perfectly true.
It's kind funny that he told me that he couldn't get it to fit, But I was able to make it fit.

You could always buy this crankset and leave the spyder on. When this ring is toast, it's going in the garbage and I'm putting the spyder back on.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

ironlegsracer said:


> I like that crank/ring setup. So much I'm thinking about going with that setup. Tell me about the chainring and removing the spider.


Removing the spyder is easy, it just take a BB tool.


----------



## ironlegsracer (Feb 5, 2004)

I'll probably leave the spider on then. I can find a cool chainring for it.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

ironlegsracer said:


> I'll probably leave the spider on then. I can find a cool chainring for it.


Good idea, although I haven't seen these cranks on Ebay lately. And don't forget they take an ISIS BB.


----------



## ironlegsracer (Feb 5, 2004)

I just need to figure out spindle length.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

ironlegsracer said:


> I just need to figure out spindle length.


Do you mean BB spindle width? I think mine is 113mm wide.


----------



## VO2 Lax (Jan 2, 2011)

I’m going for a 1x9 set up on my ‘07 Santa Cruz Nomad or Blur LT2, can decide. Before I collect the parts can you guys help me out an let me know if you see any problems with my proposed set up.

Cranks: XTR M970
Chain Ring: 32t (e13 or something cheaper)
Guide: e13 XCX (Bottom Bracket Version)
Shifter: X9 10spd
Derailleur: Sram X9 10spd


Here’s where I need help...
Cassette: 11-36, Sram 10spd but I prefer Shimano XT Cassettes. Anybody running the XT Dynasys cassettes with their X9 set ups?

Thanks!


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

VO2 Lax said:


> Here's where I need help...
> Cassette: 11-36, Sram 10spd but I prefer Shimano XT Cassettes. Anybody running the XT Dynasys cassettes with their X9 set ups?
> 
> Thanks!


Yep, running that Shimano cassette with SRAM x.9 shifters/short cage rear and SRAM something or other 10 speed chain. Been fine for a few months now, on two different bikes.

Everything else looks good as well, so long as the linkages and whatever on your frame will clear the BB mount guide. If not, one of the seat tube ones ought to work.


----------



## VO2 Lax (Jan 2, 2011)

Great!

Thanks!


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> 1x7...still count? :lol:


What year is that Yukon? I think I have the same bike (and same original seat). :thumbsup:


----------



## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

> Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS
> 1x7...still count?


Looks more like a 3x7 to me.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> 1x7...still count? :lol:


Only if there's a picture of a Sasquatch riding it!


----------



## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

smilinsteve said:


> Looks more like a 3x7 to me.


Look closer...no front derailleur or shifter or cable..rivetted chainrings = 3 rings up front.


----------



## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> Only if there's a picture of a Sasquatch riding it!


If I didn't sell the bike I would


----------



## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

marpilli said:


> What year is that Yukon? I think I have the same bike (and same original seat). :thumbsup:


From the research I have done, I found that it is a '95


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

1x10 2011 Yeti Big Top(large)
XTR chain(-5 links)
XT 11-36 cassette
32t Widgit sprocket/guide/bashguard
SLX cranks
X9 short cage der
X9 trigger


----------



## sloephuck (Jan 18, 2010)

*My Ellie.*








[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## mellowdave (Feb 3, 2010)

detroitmike said:


> Threw parts on this old frame. Forgot how good steel rides.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


My neighbors son has this SAME bike, he brought it over the other day because it wouldnt shift, and some other issues, I wanted to tell him it was trashed, and he should just give it to me...

but I fixed it for him instead. 

I told him it was a cool bike.


----------



## mellowdave (Feb 3, 2010)

rrdiaz30 said:


> I just finished a 1x9 conversion of my trusted 1999 Dean Colonel. John at Dean USA welded on the brake tabs and James Flatman at Alchemy Bicycle Co. did some cable boss mods. This is her 3rd major rebuild in 12 years. I blinged her out with some Moots and Eriksen Ti components and a Dean fork. It's all XT. BBG guard on an E-Thirteen 32T chainwheel. First ride tonight for a shakedown.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


DUDE that bike is magnificent.

I love when someone keeps the right bikes rolling over time. I am really, really impressed, very nice.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

!00% on that ^^^.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

My updated 1x8 GT Aggressor


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Internetz caused me to double post. :blush:


----------



## Thecloudpuncher (Jan 10, 2011)

*Mojo Hd*

Mojo HD with XO cranks with HBC spiderless gear, and modified MRP chain guide. This is actualy 1x10 with XX cassette.


----------



## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

^why two quick links?


----------



## Thecloudpuncher (Jan 10, 2011)

*Broke chain*

My chain broke a few weeks ago before I put the chain guide on.


----------



## G (Feb 22, 2010)

DFYFZX said:


> 1x10 2011 Yeti Big Top(large)
> XTR chain(-5 links)
> XT 11-36 cassette
> 32t Widgit sprocket/guide/bashguard
> ...


DFYFZX - What does your bike weigh?


----------



## Borgschulze (Nov 5, 2007)

Wipperman ConneX 908
SRAM PG-990 11-34t
e.Thirteen Guidering 33t
e.Thirteen XCX Chainguide
X0 Derailleur Short Cage
X0 Shifter
Jagwire Kevlar Housing
XTR Cable

I've had the Derailleur/Shifter/Cable/Housing on 4 different bikes in 3 years, and finally had to adjust it once a few months ago with a quarter barrel turn.

Also, this is my second chain/cassette/chainring, first group of them lasted 3 years.. went past 100% on the Park chain checker :thumbsup: Never had skipping issues either.


----------



## 123-zulu (May 22, 2009)

*09 Mach 4*

1 X 9 using 29T


----------



## joe_bloe (Nov 18, 2010)

I got my 1x9 parts in stages, and couldn't wait for the medium-cage derailleur before I started riding it. So at first I had a long-cage Alivio derailleur and 114-link chain. The chain came off a few times over big drops, even with the bashguard and chain guide. Once I got the medium-cage XT, I shortened the chain, and now it's rock solid. I could probably remove the bashguard if I wanted to.

Here's my completed 1x9 setup:
XT GS (medium cage) 9-speed derailleur
SRAM 980 cassette
SRAM 991 hollow-pin chain, shortened to 108 links
Race Face Ride XC crankset
Race Face 32-tooth Single chainwheel
Race Face Light bashring
N-Gear Jump Stop chain guide


----------



## Restoman (Feb 21, 2009)

What are all of these cracks?



joe_bloe said:


>


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Restoman said:


> What are all of these cracks?


I betcha there's a clear chain stay protector on there that has cracked over time.


----------



## joe_bloe (Nov 18, 2010)

Restoman said:


> What are all of these cracks?


They're not cracks, they're fibers hanging down from the chainstay protector. I never cared enough about them to tidy them up -- until now.


----------



## joe_bloe (Nov 18, 2010)

marpilli said:


> I betcha there's a clear chain stay protector on there that has cracked over time.


Not a clear one, the black fabric Kona chainstay protector. I guess it's time to figure out how to replace that, or cover it with a new one.


----------



## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

*Seven Duo*

I just took the Hammerschmidt out of my Seven and go with 1X9 for a change. Gotta say I love it so far.:thumbsup:


----------



## ProjectDan35 (Jul 19, 2010)

Man, those HBC rings up front are SO sexy.


----------



## brounstoun (Jul 24, 2011)

sexy setups in here


----------



## Fooshnicken (Jan 16, 2011)

I've just converted my old Kona Blast '06 to a 1x9. It's used mainly for commuting, so I've replaced the front triple with a single 36T ring.


----------



## HighLife420 (Apr 5, 2011)

thinking about going 1x9.....i have a XT (760) crank....do i need shorter bolts for my middle ring when i remove the 44 and t he 22? If so where can i get these?

Prob do a MRP 1x chain guide.


----------



## Fooshnicken (Jan 16, 2011)

HighLife420 said:


> thinking about going 1x9.....i have a XT (760) crank....do i need shorter bolts for my middle ring when i remove the 44 and t he 22? If so where can i get these?
> 
> Prob do a MRP 1x chain guide.


Yeah you will need shorter bolts. I picked up the set you see above for a couple of quid from an online retailer chainreactioncycles.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

BMX or SS bolts. eBay or Toronto Cycles.


----------



## HighLife420 (Apr 5, 2011)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> BMX or SS bolts. eBay or Toronto Cycles.


thx, is it a certain size for my 760 crank or is it just standard size?


----------



## Fooshnicken (Jan 16, 2011)

I think they are all standard.


----------



## HighLife420 (Apr 5, 2011)

great..thanks for the info....

Looking at the MRP 1x, is the BB mount the most common? I dont see the holes to mount the other way.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Fooshnicken said:


> I think they are all standard.


Yep


----------



## HighLife420 (Apr 5, 2011)

so still debating if i want to do it....im thinking its hella nice weight reduction for the money. I dont think you can drop almost a pound for the price of the bolts and chain guide. 

I never use anything but my 32, but i have a feeling that right when i remove it, im going to want it. hahaha. 

Im going to have the shop do it for me, they charging $25 for the whole thing, plus the cost of the MRP1x...they going to give me the bolts for free.


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

Highlife:

i love my 1x9, i was also worried that might miss the granny gear, but its so much simpler not having to fight with the FD. Once i started riding with 1x9 i never want to go back. Its easier, and once you go 1x9, you dont have a choice, either ride the hill or push it.
I plan to always ride 1x9 from here on out, or until 1x10 pushed everything out but hopefully that isnt for a while.

$25 doesn't sound bad either. I did mine myself, but i had to shave my bolts, and buy a crank puller. so 25 isn't bad.


----------



## HighLife420 (Apr 5, 2011)

Thanks Jeeper....i think im going to give it a try and see, whats the worst that can happen? I lose out on my $25 (eat Ramen noodles for a week) and the time it takes me to replace my triple in front. 

Taking my bike in tomorrrow. Prob leave it overnight, so will post pics on weds.


----------



## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

It's a fun setup, sure it's harder to pedal the steeper stuffs but limited choice increase my ability to just focus on the trail. That's one of the reason SS is so popular.


----------



## nikojan (Jun 18, 2011)

I'm really interested in going the 1x9 route but I'm not sure if its for me. I ride trails a lot but I also use my bike as a dedicated road bike; nothing to serious in terms of elevation. Do you think I would have any problems when riding it on the road? Also if not, can someone link me to a good tutorial on how to change my setup? What parts need to be bought would be great!


----------



## ymduhh (Aug 30, 2008)

Wow, went through half the thread, I am def. going to go 1x9! it would be so convenient!


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

A good friend and my daughter's father in law is new to mtbing and picked this up yesterday for 800 bones. List for over $1200 new I think. He's breaking into the sport nicely. 2009 Spot Longboard 9. Came with the street smoothies on the bike plus the stock Maxxis Ignitors that are still new, a computer, bar ends and it has never seen dirt. In fact, only driven on roads by a little old man to church Sundays.


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

rrdiaz30 said:


> I just finished a 1x9 conversion of my trusted 1999 Dean Colonel. John at Dean USA welded on the brake tabs and James Flatman at Alchemy Bicycle Co. did some cable boss mods. This is her 3rd major rebuild in 12 years. I blinged her out with some Moots and Eriksen Ti components and a Dean fork. It's all XT. BBG guard on an E-Thirteen 32T chainwheel. First ride tonight for a shakedown.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


SCHAAAAWWIIING!!

That is one smokin' hawt Dean. There is just something about timeless and classic and quality.


----------



## HighLife420 (Apr 5, 2011)

well, just dropped off my bike....splurged a little and got some blue SS bolts to go with my blue bits. 

im feeling nervous.....like i already miss the granny....which i never used on....on purpose that is hahaha.


----------



## HighLife420 (Apr 5, 2011)

Starting to have second thoughts....

A friend was telling me that i cant back pedal when using a 1x9, is this a big problem? I do back pedal a bit, not huge amounts, but sometimes when i turn, i will back pedal a little to get my inside pedal to 12'oclock.


----------



## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

I back pedal on my 1x9 all the time. No problems here.


----------



## choi0706 (Aug 14, 2010)

what do you guys think of the e13 XCX?


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

HighLife420 said:


> Starting to have second thoughts....
> 
> A friend was telling me that i cant back pedal when using a 1x9, is this a big problem? I do back pedal a bit, not huge amounts, but sometimes when i turn, i will back pedal a little to get my inside pedal to 12'oclock.


 :skep: 

Someone is clueless. Maybe he has a very worn chain ring and chain and is getting chain suck in reverse? Stick with the 1X. You'll be glad you did.


----------



## HighLife420 (Apr 5, 2011)

ya, i cant wait...

just thinking.....would a medium cage be a good upgrade from my long cage? If i plan on sticking with 1x9....thinking about picking up a new RD.


----------



## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

HighLife420 said:


> ya, i cant wait...
> 
> just thinking.....would a medium cage be a good upgrade from my long cage? If i plan on sticking with 1x9....thinking about picking up a new RD.


You probably won't notice much difference in shifting. If you need a new RD anyway, then go ahead and get the medium cage. Otherwise, it probably isn't worth spending money on.


----------



## HighLife420 (Apr 5, 2011)

i picked it up, just cause it was a killer deal...i guess its a good idea to have a new one and use my old one as a spare =)


----------



## nikojan (Jun 18, 2011)

Whats the difference between a long, medium, and short cage? There is something from with my der so I need a new one anyway.


----------



## hssp (Aug 28, 2007)

For 1x9 and minimal chain growth on rear suspension, go for short cage.


----------



## nikojan (Jun 18, 2011)

I'm on a hardtail, do you I go with a short cage?


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

I'm still fuzzy on the short, medium, long cage in respects to hardtail 1x9 setups. I have a long cage and it works fine. The chain is sized the same no matter what length rear derailleur you have (large cog to big ring + 2 links (not in the derailleur)).


----------



## ProjectDan35 (Jul 19, 2010)

People wondering about short - medium - long cage. Read up.

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...ong-cage-vs-short-cage-derailleur-284688.html


----------



## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

Yes, a long cage will work fine on a 1x9 hardtail. Some folks claim that a shorter cage provides crisper shifting, but I can't tell a difference. A shorter cage also saves some miniscule amount of weight, and it just looks more elegant.

So, if you already have a long-cage RD, I see no reason to spend the money for a shorter cage RD.
If you are starting from scratch or buying a new RD anyway, then you might was well get a short or medium cage RD.
A medium cage will allow you to go from a 1x9 to a 2x9 setup in the future if you want, so I'd choose this for the versatility.


----------



## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

Short, medium or long cage will all work on 1X9 setups.

If you have ridiculous amounts of chain growth then maybe the short cage won't work, however, all my bikes are 1X9, all are full squish, all have 11-34 cassettes, and all run short cage X9's...

IMO the main benefit of the short cage is higher chain tension (smaller lever on the tension spring) which makes for less chain slap, and they look cooler.

edit:
short cage derailleurs have a capacity of 30t (I think), 1X9 has at most 25T range, if you run an 11-36 that is... that leaves another 5 links worth of chain growth, or in the case of 11-34, 7 links of chain growth...


----------



## HighLife420 (Apr 5, 2011)

Well, the first shots of the 1x9 conversion on my Cobia....what you guys think? Chain length look good? Thoughts appreciated.


----------



## Restoman (Feb 21, 2009)

The chain looks maybe short? I just follow the formula. Smashing my rear der prompted me to go 1x9. Short cage and it's real nice.


----------



## HighLife420 (Apr 5, 2011)

they took 2 off at the shop from what i had before for my triple. 

Should i add a link for now?

I have a med cage RD coming, so i figured i would need to remove a few more after that. 

thx


----------



## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

mimi1885 said:


> I just took the Hammerschmidt out of my Seven and go with 1X9 for a change. Gotta say I love it so far.:thumbsup:


what are you using as a guide or is the nature of a mono link such that you can get away with not using one?


----------



## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

b-kul said:


> what are you using as a guide or is the nature of a mono link such that you can get away with not using one?


The monolink does a pretty good job keeping the chain on, I've tried similar set up with my ML8 ran into very little problems. On the Seven I just replace the small ring with the another bash I picked up from BBG. It works well so far if I star loosing chain I may add a Stinger but so far so good.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

mimi1885 said:


> ... I just replace the small ring with the another bash I picked up from BBG.


This is what I'm going to do on my next overhaul. After a particularly nasty wipe out my N-Gear Jump Stop can get knocked out of whack. The inside BBG guard setup just looks real clean, also...


----------



## Restoman (Feb 21, 2009)

HighLife420 said:


> they took 2 off at the shop from what i had before for my triple.
> 
> Should i add a link for now?
> 
> ...


If changes are coming just run it. Search on the drivetrain section about chain length.


----------



## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

marpilli said:


> This is what I'm going to do on my next overhaul. After a particularly nasty wipe out my N-Gear Jump Stop can get knocked out of whack. The inside BBG guard setup just looks real clean, also...


I'm pretty sure that they make the more standard size as well, the 960 is a bit of an odd size and BBG is the only one I see that make the inner bash that size. I agree they are clean lookin':thumbsup:


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

My BBG inner guard has been working great too. It doesn't do anything to help with chainslap of course, but it has never dropped the chain. 

The only negative I can think of is that the position of the granny mounting bolts relative to the size of the whole 32t guard leaves a lot of un-damped material that can really sing when the chain hits it. Mine sounds like a bell when I'm going fast over rough sections


----------



## HighLife420 (Apr 5, 2011)

just got back from my first 1x9 ride.....wow...im a believer...

I love it...so simple and it just works...and my chain slap is pretty much gone. Shifts nice and snappy...

Enough for me to get to about 22-23 (with it rubbing the chainguide of course, surprisingly quiet though.) and perfect amount for me and my short climbs.


----------



## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

If anyone can give me some suggestions regarding my biggest c**k up in the 20 years of bike building and 12 years of building custom parts then that would be much appreciated.

I was drilling out the pins of the chainring to reduce the risk of the chain hitting the pin when off roading ( i know i can't sand off the ramps because that would reduce the strength of the teeth) and the drill slipped and went straight in between the teeth.

I know some other mechanics and designers and they say it is fine but i don't think so.

I can't take pics yet because.......well my camera is sh*t and is not in a good condition at the moment.

The chainring has 4 round gaps that have seperated it slightly, so it looks like the teeth are in 4 segments. Imagine a circle with 4 cuts in it, about 6mm in from the circumference.

It is an m970 xtr chainring and cost a considerable amount.

Please help.

Thank you.


----------



## Fooshnicken (Jan 16, 2011)

Without seeing pictures I am not sure what you mean sorry.


----------



## Fooshnicken (Jan 16, 2011)

1x9 now with added N-Gear Jump Stop;


----------



## chris1911 (May 26, 2009)




----------



## IDRVSLO (Aug 22, 2010)

Such amazing bikes!


----------



## nikojan (Jun 18, 2011)

chris1911 said:


>


This might be a stupid question, but why didn't you put the crankarm behind the ring?


----------



## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

nikojan said:


> This might be a stupid question, but why didn't you put the crankarm behind the ring?


Because that's for the big ring or bash guard, and it would push middle ring out too far for good chain alignment, that's good question actually:thumbsup:


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

nikojan said:


> This might be a stupid question, but why didn't you put the crankarm behind the ring?


Not stupid. It's to maintain a good chain line. Your middle ring (behind the crank spider) has the best chain line for reaching all cogs on your cassette. If you're in the large chainring position (outside the spider) you're not supposed to cross chain to the largest cog on the cassette. Same goes for the granny ring and the smallest cog on the cassette.

I put a bashring in the large ring position because (like you) I thought my crank looked like it was missing something...


----------



## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

To go with a middle and no bash guard, don't you need shorter chainring bolts?


----------



## Fooshnicken (Jan 16, 2011)

Yes you do


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

smilinsteve said:


> To go with a middle and no bash guard, don't you need shorter chainring bolts?


As a rule, yes -- although I have seen short enough 2-ring bolts install without shims on thick enough singlespeed rings.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

I'm currently running an SLX drivetrain 2x9, 24/36 up front, 11-34 cassette and a medium cage SLX der. I want to give 1x9 a try but I'm completely clueless as what to buy. What size chainring up front would be a happy medium, also what kind of ISCG chainguide would I most likely get? Do I still need a bashguard?


----------



## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

eurospek said:


> I'm currently running an SLX drivetrain 2x9, 24/36 up front, 11-34 cassette and a medium cage SLX der. I want to give 1x9 a try but I'm completely clueless as what to buy. What size chainring up front would be a happy medium, also what kind of ISCG chainguide would I most likely get? Do I still need a bashguard?


On your next ride check and see if 36-34 is doable on the usual climb. You can also start with the 32t ring. You don't need an ISCG guide unless you have the tab on your bike. Many companies makes the BB version that you can fit on your bike. Another option would be the Blackspire Stinger it works well too. Bashguard is a good idea and since you already have them on your crank you don't need to change anything:thumbsup:


----------



## ridingaddict (Feb 17, 2011)

I run 1x8 I took off my front shifter and two other chain rings cause I never used them. I shortened the chain by a few links but my chain still slips. What the cheapest solution to stopping my chain from slipping off?

Oh yeah, it used to be 3 up front and now I only have the middle one on so most bash guards I've seen will leave a gap without the biggest ring on. Maybe I should just through the big ring on to keep the chain in place... But sometimes it falls off towards the inner part. It really kills my flow when I gotta stop and re-run the chain.


----------



## Kaizer (Jul 19, 2010)

BBG sandwich guard.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

ridingaddict said:


> I run 1x8 I took off my front shifter and two other chain rings cause I never used them. I shortened the chain by a few links but my chain still slips. What the cheapest solution to stopping my chain from slipping off?


Cheapest solution is to buy a Jump Stop for around $10. That will fix dropping the chain on the inside. I think any old bashugard would help if you drop the chain on the outside. I bought a used one off of ebay for my 1x8. Never had an issue with it getting jammed between the ring and the bashguard.


----------



## adjitridika (Dec 24, 2010)

dudeStL said:


> I'm now using a 35x11-28. I commute about 10 miles a day on it and go jumping about 4-5 times a week. Seems to be working well so far.


dude, your mob has got no ISCG tab for chainguide right? what euro BB you using? is there any issues about spindle spacing?


----------



## HighLife420 (Apr 5, 2011)

Whats your guys thoughts on a 34t over a 32t in the front with a 11/34 in the back. 

I gain a high gear pretty much without really losing my low gear right


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

HighLife420 said:


> Whats your guys thoughts on a 34t over a 32t in the front with a 11/34 in the back.
> 
> I gain a high gear pretty much without really losing my low gear right


If you haven't seen the gear calculator on Sheldon Brown's website, I would highly recommend it: Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator

I ride a 32t with 11/34 in the back and like it. I'm actually thinking about buying a 31t or 30t front ring to get a little lower gearing. I guess it comes down to how much you're climbing and how strong your legs are. I'm climbing a lot and don't have enough leg strength.


----------



## fromthecoast (Aug 22, 2006)

I converted to 1x9 from a SS and I'm not currently running anything up front for chain retention. I've only had the chain come off one time and it was when I crashed. Other than that, it is staying on just fine, but its also a SS chainring.


----------



## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

Heres my 2010 Fuel EX 8 which I've had for a few months already and love it...

1x9
XCX Chain Guide
Shimano XT RD
Shimano XT 11-34 Cassette
SRAM PC-991 Chain
32T SLX Chainring (Salsa and HBC 32T chainring on the way)
SLX Crank but still using the pressed BB
SLX Shifter


----------



## DansDaMan561 (Mar 16, 2011)

Trek fuel EX 9 09 with Blackspire C4 1x9 with bashguard and chain guide


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

DansDaMan561, that guide is simple and keeps the chain very good! Don't be tempted by lighter guides.:thumbsup:


----------



## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

marpilli said:


> If you haven't seen the gear calculator on Sheldon Brown's website, I would highly recommend it: Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator
> 
> I ride a 32t with 11/34 in the back and like it. I'm actually thinking about buying a 31t or 30t front ring to get a little lower gearing. I guess it comes down to how much you're climbing and how strong your legs are. I'm climbing a lot and don't have enough leg strength.


I just switched from a 32t to a 30t and I am loving it.


----------



## Peter Leo (Aug 23, 2011)

very nice looking ride!


----------



## marcryan27 (Nov 1, 2008)




----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

marcryan27, does that lower pulley make loud noise against chain running on it? Mine did, but perhaps they changed the material since 2008.

Nice bike, by the way. Are those Elixir CR brakes? Looks like you can route the hoses somewhat better towards the calipers -- there are adjustable integrated banjos for that.


----------



## marcryan27 (Nov 1, 2008)

unfortunately it does... It kinda annoys me at first but I tend to forget about it once I started riding... my friend who installed it said it was normal. Not sure if its Elixir CR, it came stock on the my stumpy. But I'm interested on those banjo's your talking about. Can you shed some light on that?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

If your caliper looks like this










then you can slightly (0.5 turn is about enough) loosen the bolt (one with the black bleed screw inside its head) that holds the red banjo thing. There are compressed gaskets throughout, so a small loosening will not cause unpressurized fluid to leak. But you will be able to rotate the banjo to a desired position. Once there, tighten the bolt back again, the same angle you did in the first place.


----------



## marcryan27 (Nov 1, 2008)

Sorry dude... I just check my brakes they're actually Elixir R SL only not the CR. My bad... But thanks though!


----------



## Mud Gecko (Apr 16, 2011)

Hi all, finally got my 1x9 done on my 2011 Enduro, wish I'd done it sooner! Best mod yet! :thumbsup:


----------



## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

X0 cranks with Homebrewed 30T chainring
Paul Chain Keeper
X0 twist shifter
X0 derailleur
PG 990 cassette
PC 991 chain


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

jabrabu said:


>


So clean, in so many ways.

EDIT: Oops, just wrote the 1500th post of my own thread. Faux pas I guess.
Thanks for all the contributions. 5.5 years and still going strong. Keep them coming.


----------



## chimpanzee00 (Dec 16, 2006)

*Iron Horse Rogue '04*

I bought a IH Rogue '04 for $60 off Craigslist:

- frame
- Judy SL fork
- Hayes 9 hydraulic disc brakes
front worked, rear didn't (I had to re-fill & bleed to make it work)
- seatpost + seat
- crank w/22t (granny ring)

owner tried a single-speed conversion.

I showed up with a spare wheelset (WTB speed disc + Bontrager tires, $50 off Craigslist), & went back home with it. Combination riding & bus (w/bike rack). Loose chain made it interesting: kept ghost-shifting in rear, & sometimes fell off front chainring!!

Had a Forte rear derailleur ($24 from Performancebike) & Shimano Alivio rear 8 spd shifter, lying around. Installed it.

I was chasing for a new crankset, but realized the 1x8 could do the job. I.e., I climb steep fire-roads, & am in the LOWEST gear: 22t (front) + 34t (rear). So, I accidentally joined the 1x8 club!!

Weight, I'm at ~29 lbs. So, why bother adding weight & complexity of front-shift hardware?

I guess I have to be worried about some chain guide for the front.


----------



## Teton29er (Jul 31, 2011)

Chimpanzee---

Looks like you also accidently didn't get a granny gear. That sure doesn't look like a 22T chainring? Or did you swap it out?


----------



## chimpanzee00 (Dec 16, 2006)

Teton29er said:


> Chimpanzee---
> 
> Looks like you also accidently didn't get a granny gear. That sure doesn't look like a 22T chainring? Or did you swap it out?


You're right. It's a Blackspire Monoveloce single-speed chain ring:

model #10432

32 teeth

Blackspire - MonoVeloce Chainrings | Blackspire

I was also looking for a "beater" to go around town, so I guess this could fit the bill. I would never be able to go on steep climbs without a 22t granny chainring!!


----------



## hardtailkid (Jan 25, 2010)

What chainring bolts to do need to use so I can have a 1x crankset, as opposed to 2x + rockguard? Crankset is a Truvativ Hussefelt. 

And yes, I do want to take the bashguard off...


----------



## cant fix a flat (Apr 20, 2006)

hardtailkid said:


> What chainring bolts to do need to use so I can have a 1x crankset, as opposed to 2x + rockguard? Crankset is a Truvativ Hussefelt.
> 
> And yes, I do want to take the bashguard off...


you need single chainrings bolts

Sette Single Chainring Bolt Set at Price Point


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Are you guys thinking what I'm thinking?

Trickstuff DoppelMoppel Hydraulic-to-Mechanical Disc Brake Converter, Other Cool Stuff - Bike Rumor


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Carbocages are usually installed on super light 4X style builds.. I'd stay away from that -- there are similar guides being made by MRP and e13 already, they are heavier but nowhere as scary to run.


----------



## sloephuck (Jan 18, 2010)

That thing is beautiful. I WANT ONE!!


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

After running 1X9 for many years for Cross Country Racing, I have come to the conclusion that a regular bottom swing derailleur (with the limit screws cranked in) has been a much more reliable chain guide than the Paul Chain Keeper or the MRP 1X. The Paul would jam and the MRP would fall off the ring and getting it back on was a chore. 

The MRP is better than the Paul and the MRP is still lighter than a derailleur.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

I did jam a Paul up once. But it was my fault, I had to back pedal before the shift finished. Now I run it as tight to the chain as I can get away with.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Killroy, to what side did your chain drop with MRP 1.X? Have you tried spacing the guide?


----------



## Teton29er (Jul 31, 2011)

*1x9 Rocky Mountain Vertex*

Step by step SLOW conversion to 1x9:

1)Ride your favorite rides in the middle ring only, see if you miss playing with granny.
2)Take off Front Derailleur Shifter and cable. Go on some more rides.
3)Take off middle and big ring, put on 32T Niner chainring. Go riding for a week or two.
4)Cut off granny. (way faster than a guy without tools taking off bottom bracket...) RIde another week.
5)Install MRPx1 with Fixed Derailleur mount arm. 
6)post pictures on this thread and go ride.

Total weight removed from bike: 14.5 oz.
Total minutes riding wishing I had a 3x9 : 0


----------



## choi0706 (Aug 14, 2010)

what about the e13 xcx?


----------



## Kaizer (Jul 19, 2010)

Wow Teton, you got a broken granny ring?


----------



## Hardguy (Nov 4, 2006)

Kaizer said:


> Wow Teton, you got a broken granny ring?


Try reading number four of his post...



Teton29er said:


> Step by step SLOW conversion to 1x9:
> 
> 1)Ride your favorite rides in the middle ring only, see if you miss playing with granny.
> 2)Take off Front Derailleur Shifter and cable. Go on some more rides.
> ...


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

That's funny!!


----------



## Hardguy (Nov 4, 2006)

Thanks, Shawn. If it made you laugh, you can always rep me.


----------



## TobeyToe (Mar 30, 2011)

Hardguy said:


> Try reading number four of his post...


Made me laugh also. You got repped.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Teton, your MRP 1x should work much better if you set it up properly. It will be less prone to rubbing and hold the chain more securely if you have it properly matched to your crank like in this photo. Basically just match the curve of the bottom of the guide to the arc that your crank spider makes and get it as close as possible. Here's a photo of the position I ended up with on my BB mount version


----------



## 661lee (Apr 11, 2007)

boomn is right on. I was thinking the same thing.


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

im still a huge fan of the BBG Bashwich, myn has worked phonominal and literally weighs nothing. Also look alot better IMO than all the big e13 guards and what not.


----------



## Teton29er (Jul 31, 2011)

Thanks so much for the advice positioning the MRP Boom and Lee. This place is great.

Probably saved my friday afternoon ride, as not only was it in a poor position but the microscopic allen head screw was pretty much stripped after a few adjustments. So I picked up a 5mmx25mm bolt at Ace and locking nut on the way to the trail in case I needed to make another adjustment.

Here's a shot of the MRP installed better. South Teton in the background.

Worked like a charm on my 12 mile rough trail ride.


----------



## Fooshnicken (Jan 16, 2011)

Just a few updated pictures since I removed all the paint from my old Kona  This has a 36T middle chain ring up front and I'm using an N-Gear jump stop on the seat tube. It has the original 11-32 casette on the rear. I haven't bothered with any sort of chain device on this setup so far.


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Can anyone link me to threads helpful on installing a cost effective 1x9 set up on a KM?


----------



## riiz (Jul 8, 2010)

I can post you a pic of mine currently. I built this about 1.5+ years ago, but it can be replicated cheaply with Sram or shimano equipment.

X7/X9 Rear derailer - $45/70
PG950 cassette - $30
PC971 Chain - $20
X7/X9 Rear Shifter - $50/70
Shimano LX Crankset $90 (remove the outer and inner chainring, keep the middle ring)
Origin 8 Chainring bolts $8
MRP 1.x Chainguide - $35

Most of the prices can be found on jensonusa.com/chainreaction, ebay, or a google search, etc.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Agwan said:


> Can anyone link me to threads helpful on installing a cost effective 1x9 set up on a KM?


Sure, lol!
http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/show-pics-your-1x9-setup-158959.html
Read the whole thing, skip post # 1524.


----------



## KiwiJohn (Feb 6, 2007)

Just need to move the guide in a little more some how.


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> Sure, lol!
> http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/show-pics-your-1x9-setup-158959.html
> Read the whole thing, skip post # 1524.


Mods who Troll! wow... we must be on a forum related to a sport (Checks) WE ARE!!! that explains it.

read the whole thing. read it before I posted. saw a whole bunch of gorgeous high end stuff. not really cost effective. unless you want to split hairs!

thank you Riiz! that was very helpful!


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Agwan said:


> Mods who Troll! wow... we must be on a forum related to a sport (Checks) WE ARE!!! that explains it.
> 
> read the whole thing. read it before I posted. saw a whole bunch of gorgeous high end stuff. not really cost effective. unless you want to split hairs!
> 
> thank you Riiz! that was very helpful!


Just letting you know to read before you ask. There is all kinds of discussion here on all kinds of 1x9 setups. This is one of the best threads on the subject. Your answers are here if you read.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

DFYFZX said:


> 1x10 2011 Yeti Big Top(large)
> XTR chain(-5 links)
> XT 11-36 cassette
> 32t Widgit sprocket/guide/bashguard
> ...


This is pretty cost effective. You could even go cheaper, with a cheaper chain and rear derailer. Minus the wheelset, but were not talking wheelsets here.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

marpilli said:


> My updated 1x8 GT Aggressor
> 
> View attachment 624787
> 
> ...


LX cranks and rear derailer = very cost effective. You can pick up a 9 speed cassette on Ebay for $25.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

canuckbiker said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> After reading this thread I would like to try and go 1x9. However, I am still confused as to what I may/may not need. Can you assist me with the use of the below images?
> 
> ...


Oh look, very cost effective! Take off 2 rings, a front derailer and shifter. Can't get much cheaper then that.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> So, finally I finished my 1x9. It is 34 x 11-34. The crankset, with the ring, weighs a whopping 450 grams and it's flex free. I have another wheelset with Racing Ralphs on them, so I use it for both street and mountain.


Oh look what we have here, my bike! You want to talk about cost effective. I paid about $70 for the new carbon cranks on Ebay. $40 for the ring, $45 for Paul, about $30 for the chain on Ebay. $25 XT cassette from Ebay. Left over XTR Rear derailer. It's been on about 4 other bikes and is still working well. So, even if I paid MSRP for it, It's paid for itself. $10 a piece for the red pullies on Ebay.

Very stiff, very light, silent quiet and easy on the wallet.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

llckll said:


> If that's the case, I will need a new crankset. I will probably stick with 38T, 40T or 42T.
> 
> Here are the pics:
> 
> ...


Now, if you look up cost effective 1x9 in Webster, you'll see this. You could pick up a set up like this on Ebay or here in the classifieds for $50 or less.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

SuPrBuGmAn said:


> Truvativ Stylo 1.1
> Sram 9spd chain
> Fang chainkeeper
> Sram PG980 11-34
> ...


Cost effective!


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

MattP. said:


> Alright here is mine. Due to weather, haven't took it on the trail yet  But on Monday....


Check this one out! Post #34, on the first page even. Very cost effective!


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

In Summery: Cost effective setups are here. Watch Ebay and the classifieds here. Be patient for killer deals. If your patient, you can even pic up XT level components at very good prices. Sometimes at prices so good, it makes you feel like you stole it.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Let me know if you have any questions or need me to post more examples of cost effective setups.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Shawn, are you high? Or, have you just lost your mind?


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

marpilli said:


> Shawn, are you high? Or, have you just lost your mind?


What? These are all cheap, cost effective setups. Just trying to help a guy out.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Agwan said:


> yeah, that ONE you posted. *Not* cost effective by most humans minds. like I said, I read. and read and read. then asked if anyone had any good links. got good advice. then got to see some Trolling by a Mod.
> 
> I've in that time found a nice compromise of parts, between affordable and crap. SRAM X7 to a DMR rear hub. with wheel build and everything it looks to cost me around 360 dollars. so I won't be able to get it all right away. but hopefully a few weeks after the Karate Monkey gets here, I can sell the old bike for enough.
> 
> Dropping 360 dollars into a bike you just spent 1,120. not really cost effective at all. to most humans. but it seems realistic to meet my wants/needs.


Which one isn't cost effective? I'm just talking about a 1x9 drivetrain, not a whole bike.


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

yeah, that ONE you posted. *Not* cost effective by most humans minds. like I said, I read. and read and read. then asked if anyone had any good links. got good advice. then got to see some Trolling by a Mod.

I've in that time found a nice compromise of parts, between affordable and crap. SRAM X7 to a DMR rear hub. with wheel build and everything it looks to cost me around 360 dollars. so I won't be able to get it all right away. but hopefully a few weeks after the Karate Monkey gets here, I can sell the old bike for enough.

Dropping 360 dollars into a bike you just spent 1,120. not really cost effective at all. to most humans. but it seems realistic to meet my wants/needs.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Oh, I hate when that happens. My reply ended up before your post.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Agwan said:


> Dropping 360 dollars into a bike you just spent 1,120. not really cost effective at all. to most humans. but it seems realistic to meet my wants/needs.


You didn't mention that before. Why don't you just convert the drivetrain that you have. $10 for some single speed or BMX chainring bolts, a little labor, adjust the front derailer and be done with it.


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Wow... the thread I read when I replied and the thread thats there now don't match... all those answers weren't there before my reply... when I typed my reply...

my current bike is a Scott YZ-1 with Alivio. the bikes got around 9,000 miles of abuse on components that just never really made me happy. the Karate Monkey is, Of course. a singlespeed.

what really blows me out of the water is my rear wheel. New hub+New spokes+nipples+ existing Rim+labor= about 200 dollars more. 160ish otherwise is totally doable.

But I like the Surly's wheels. cartridge bearings on Salsa Delgado's is really better than I would have gotten had i tried to scratch build it for the same price.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Does the KM have a derailer hanger?


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)




----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Right on! You said SS, so I wasn't sure.


----------



## skankingbiker (Jan 15, 2010)

I am working on converting my old gary fisher to a 1x9. Made a homemade "chain keeper" for the inside by attaching a old curvy rear stay bridge reflector mount to a circular seat post reflector mount. With a surly chainwheel and BBG bashguard, no need for bulky proprietary chainkeeper.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

skankingbiker said:


> I am working on converting my old gary fisher to a 1x9. Made a homemade "chain keeper" for the inside by attaching a old curvy rear stay bridge reflector mount to a circular seat post reflector mount. With a surly chainwheel and BBG bashguard, no need for bulky proprietary chainkeeper.


I remember seeing posts where people had made their own chainkeeper. Some of them were very nicely done. Search for 'diy chainkeeper' or 'homemade chainkeeper' for ideas if you get stuck. When you're done, post up a photo. Photos of ingenious solutions are always cool to look at. :thumbsup:


----------



## Mugochap (Nov 12, 2010)

Here is a pic of the my build, finished today with the help of my LBS.

I've had this bike since brand new, got it was when I was 16 in 1996. It's a Fisher Tassajara that had been sitting in my garage for about 8 years, unused. I used to ride it like crazy in my mid to late teens but got hooked on motorcycles in my 20's and rarely rode it. A few weeks ago I decided it was time to bring her down and give my KHS full susser a stablemate. 

Just did a cheap build to see if I like the fully rigid set 1x7 setup... will ride it like this for a while and if I like it I'll slowly sink some real coin into it to do it up right.


----------



## cant fix a flat (Apr 20, 2006)

here's my 1x9 setup


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

X0/ISAR combo is becoming popular, it seems..


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

*30 Tooth Andersen Chainring and BBG Bashguards*

Updated my 1x8 with a 30t chainring and BBG bashguards. :thumbsup:


----------



## fire_strom (Sep 4, 2009)

Sweet, that is my plan for chain retention too. Let us know how it works.
Scott


----------



## shoresnapper (Sep 13, 2008)

that's a great idea if it acts as a chain device!


----------



## jbrookeiv (Jul 28, 2010)

marpilli said:


> Updated my 1x8 with a 30t chainring and BBG bashguards. :thumbsup:


I think I'll be setting up this exact setup. Thanks!


----------



## ImagePree (Apr 24, 2011)

Before and after.


----------



## jeeper006 (May 8, 2009)

i also use the BBG bashwich and have done so for i guess about a year and it is ROCK solid. everytime i have to cross over logs or what not i just drag the bike over and the BBG guard is flawless except for a few paint scraped from dragging.
I very much recommend BBG


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

I have converted my girlfriend's GT Aggressor to 1x8 today. Parts are: my old Gamut G25 chain guide, Truvativ aluminum singlespeed ring 33T, SLX triple @ 170 mm. She's small and lightweight, and is into dirt jumping (dreams of a dedicated 24" SS DJ bike), so full chain retention made her happy.

Also replaced the left hand v-brake/trigger combo with used Avid SD7 SL that I had. Said bye-bye to 1354 g square taper crankset and a Tourney FD.


----------



## Guest (Sep 24, 2011)

That doesn' rub at the chain's extreme? I'm just curious, I've seen multiple ways to do this set up but the angles scare me.


----------



## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Damn that BBG baswhich looks sick, but i got a question now. Would that interfere with lets say if there was a chainguide on the bike? ISCG 05 tabs ..


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

aedubber said:


> Damn that BBG baswhich looks sick, but i got a question now. Would that interfere with lets say if there was a chainguide on the bike? ISCG 05 tabs ..


Yes, they will not fit together, because they must occupy intersecting regions of space around the crankset spider and the chainring. But you don't need a bashwich if you have a full chainguide installed.

With some guides (bashring style ones), you can run them with any bashring of suitable diameter, so you can mount a BBG outer bash if you prefer its looks over the bashring that comes with the guide.


----------



## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Thank you sir ^^^ , figured it would but just wanted to be 100% .


----------



## frankieuc (Nov 28, 2006)

I have been trolling on this topic for awhile and getting ideas for my 1x9 conversion. I ordered a Homebrewed 32T 104 bcd chainring. Now I'm stuck on what to get on a chainguide. I'm trying to decide between an Mrp and Paul's. I like a seat tube mount. Anybody tried the MRP guide seat tube mounted?


----------



## skankingbiker (Jan 15, 2010)

This is its 4th incarnation. I love the 1x9. No more dropping chains or trying to figure out which derailuer to shift. Shorter chain means more efficiency. Almost as good as a single speed.


----------



## ImagePree (Apr 24, 2011)

frankieuc said:


> I have been trolling on this topic for awhile and getting ideas for my 1x9 conversion. I ordered a Homebrewed 32T 104 bcd chainring. Now I'm stuck on what to get on a chainguide. I'm trying to decide between an Mrp and Paul's. I like a seat tube mount. Anybody tried the MRP guide seat tube mounted?


MRP is a BB mount.
Paul makes both a BB and seat tube mount.
N-stop also is a seat tube mount.


----------



## Teton29er (Jul 31, 2011)

MRP is available in seat tube mount, both direct mount and clamp style.

Mine is direct mount style and has worked flawlessly.


----------



## ImagePree (Apr 24, 2011)

^ I stand corrected. Thank you.


----------



## jsilva (Jul 20, 2011)

Some pics of my road-only Soho. 46T front, 11-26t rear.


----------



## juu-zo (Jul 20, 2011)

jep


----------



## justinhot996 (May 21, 2011)

Just waiting on the 32t homebrew chainring and it's set =) right now it has the 36t slx chainring so that's why the chain is sticking out beyond the 32t bashrings hehe :nono: but i'm impatiant and couldn't resist! good work out too.


----------



## deezler (Jun 21, 2011)

Add me to the list of happy 1x9'ers. A front derailleur is so pointless for a mountain bike unless you rock up some nasty steep hills all the time, or bomb downhill on roads often. An 11-34 rear cassette is a wiiiide range.

Not sure I even need any front chain retention devices because my SAINT short cage rear derailleur is so well tensioned against the chain. But just in case, I threw on an N-gear jumpstop. I already had the bash guard on the crank set anyway.


----------



## strikerkidNY (Oct 1, 2011)

To all HBC (Homebrewed Components) chainring users, how do they run?


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

strikerkidNY said:


> To all HBC (Homebrewed Components) chainring users, how do they run?


No one makes anything better!


----------



## borbntm (May 4, 2011)

2011 Stumpy EVO with standard 1x10 setup. 11-36 cassette, 33 T chainring. Great combo, this thing is fast!


----------



## TheTwanksta (Feb 26, 2011)

Does this count? Taken from a recent Snowshoe trip with some DH riding in the rain. 









Before:









After:









Plans to upgrade soon:
SRAM 10spd Cassette
SRAM XO Short Cage Rear Derailleur
SRAM XO Rear Shifter
MRP Podium 34T Chainring
KMC Gold Chain
Still undecided on crank arms..


----------



## pedalfasterben (Aug 21, 2011)

Long time single speeder gets a FS 29er and all the useless gears make head explode. Solution? 1x9!

Got the bike just over a month ago, done a few upgrades for operation 'out with Bontrager', and converted to 1x9 last night - LOVE!

Given the Truvativ cranks look naked with no bashguard and I think the stock MRP is big and ugly, I took a hacksaw and sand paper to the MRP guide. With the guide cleanly hacked up, I can run it on the inside and leave the bashguard on.

Before:








Hacked:








After:
























2010 Gary Fisher SuperFly 100
Upgrades:
Niner Flat Top Carbon Bars
Thomson Elite x4 Stem
Sella Italia SL XC Saddle
Ergon GX-1 Grips
Maxxis Ardent/Ikon tubeless


----------



## 661lee (Apr 11, 2007)

Nice. :thumbsup:


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

benforr said:


> I took a hacksaw and sand paper to the MRP guide.


That's a nice modification. Haven't seen anyone do that before. I liked my Jump Stop but it kept moving around on me. This would have done the trick nicely. :thumbsup:


----------



## facelessfools (Aug 30, 2008)

Here is my "Chinese carbon frame" it weighs in at 17lbs 6oz. 
the drive-train is..
xx shifter, xx cassette, x0 rear derailleur (with '09 carbon cage's, alloy bolts, and torontocycles ceramic pulleys), Extralite E-Bones W cranks, Home brewed components 35t chainring, Torontocycles chainringbolts.


















































































I made a couple chainguides from carbon. the one on my bike is fixed and is 17g.
This version is 25g and adjustable. in the process of making 4 more.


----------



## rockdude14 (Jul 7, 2006)

I'll be changing my trance x2 to a 1x9 soon.

Going with the e.thirteen xcx for a chainguide
hopefully I'll get pics up this week.


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Is there a way to find out how BIG a chainring you can fit up front? I want to put an E.13 Chainring and a Jump stop on my new bike. but... I likes my massive outer ring. I almost never use the smaller gears.

and this is a mostly commuter bike. do you think I could get by with just a jumpstop and an ungated chainring? or do I still need retention on the outside? maybe I should just do a two plate bashguard instead?

opinions?


----------



## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

Agwan said:


> Is there a way to find out how BIG a chainring you can fit up front? I want to put an Evil Chainring and a Jump stop on my new bike. but... I likes my massive outer ring. I almost never use the smaller gears.


I've seen a few 53t but how massive is your current ring. Is this for off road?


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Ack! I edited in the time you replied! sorry!

I'm not sure the tooth count on the new crank. Pricepoint shows a FireX crank in the image for the build kit. but lists the Truvativ Stylo 3.3 Team Crankset as what it comes with. I have no idea how the quality on these two cranks compare. or the actual tooth counts!
Edit_______
both are 44-32-22


----------



## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

Most likely 42t you can get 44,46,48 or swap to road crank and go with 53t.


----------



## jsilva (Jul 20, 2011)

Agwan said:


> and this is a mostly commuter bike. do you think I could get by with just a jumpstop and an ungated chainring? or do I still need retention on the outside? maybe I should just do a two plate bashguard instead?
> 
> opinions?


As you can see above, my Trek Soho has no chain retention device. Once I got the CR80 single chainring the chain has not dropped. I ride about 100 miles per week. However, it did drop occasionally when I was using the original SLX outer chainring (middle position).


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I just wonder if the 40t E.13 will be big enough to compare to the 44t I am used to.


----------



## BikeThreads (Oct 5, 2011)

Sorry for the tangent, but how do you guys with Blackspire Stinger's like them?

Do you get much chain buzz or drag from the roller?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Agwan said:


> Is there a way to find out how BIG a chainring you can fit up front?


You will likely want to run it in the middle ring position, where chainstay clearance is often an issue. Try to visualize your current big ring in that position -- does it look like it will clear the chainstay?

In the big ring position you're likely to have severe cross-chaining in 2 lowest gears.

Another option, suitable for cranksets that use cartridge BBs only (like square tapers), would be to use the shortest spindle BB you can find, and leave the big ring in outside position.



Agwan said:


> do you think I could get by with just a jumpstop and an ungated chainring? or do I still need retention on the outside? maybe I should just do a two plate bashguard instead?


I'd go for 2-sided chain retention.. whether it's bash and Jump Stop, or a bashwich.


----------



## KAZU (Aug 10, 2011)

Wow cool thread, just stumbled on this. Posted my chain retention set up I made in downhill, but this seems more appropriate.

I spun down some aluminum plate thinking the sandwich type setups you can buy would get bent easy.

The one I made is a little heavier, but not by much I would think.

Ripped it out quickly to see if it would work.



I took a extra long weekend at Highland Mountain Park, local lift and downhill park, did drops DJs and wrecked a lot and no loss of chain all 4 days. Now that I know it works. I'm machining it down further to lose weight, yet trying to retain the ruggedness.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Looks good :thumbsup:

From what I've seen so far, if you use a outer bashguard at least slightly larger than your inner retention guard you really shouldn't have to worry about bending the inner guard. I don't exactly do a lot of damage to my outer guard either but it does show some wear and gouges while my inner guard shows nothing


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Kazu, that looks great. You should make a matching one for the outside guard.


----------



## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

Great thread

Quick question what tool do I need to remove my crank? (Shimano FCM-442 octalink)

I'm going to put a Blackspire Mono Veloce SS 32T on sometime, I guess I don't need to get shorter chainring bolts if I put a bashguard on but which ones are the short ones if I can do without a bashguard? (Link would be mint)

Thanks

Made a quick ghetto chain stop with an old seat reflector for the meantime.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

OFFcourse, get a Park Tool CWP-7. It supports Octalink, square taper, ISIS, Truvativ Power Spline, and lots of BMX style chromoly cranks too.


----------



## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

J. Random Psycho said:


> OFFcourse, get a Park Tool CWP-7. It supports Octalink, square taper, ISIS, Truvativ Power Spline, and lots of BMX style chromoly cranks too.


Sweet thanks, I might have to grab a PH-10 Hex Wrench too that fixing bolt is stuck god damm tight.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

OFFcourse said:


> Great thread
> 
> Quick question what tool do I need to remove my crank? (Shimano FCM-442 octalink)
> 
> ...


Take the crank bolts out and replace them with easy-outs. Then no special tool needed, all you'll need is an allen wrench.

Edit: actually just thread in easy outs over the crank bolts, sorry.
Edit again: I see your crank bolts have plastic inserts, so you'll have to take out the crank bolts, take off the plastic insert, put the crank bolts back in and thread the easy outs over them, then lossen the crank bolts, till the arms come off.


----------



## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> Take the crank bolts out and replace them with easy-outs. Then no special tool needed, all you'll need is an allen wrench.


So I would be able to remove the small and mid ring without a CWP-7?

I don't have any reason to remove the cranks other than to get the rings off and a SS one on.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Well, you can also cut the small ring and remove pieces of it with your cranks installed.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

OFFcourse said:


> So I would be able to remove the small and mid ring without a CWP-7?
> 
> I don't have any reason to remove the cranks other than to get the rings off and a SS one on.


A CWP-7 is a crank puller, used to get the crank arms off the bottom bracket spindle. It will do the same thing as the easy outs, which are threaded over the crank arm bolts, using a circlip tool or a thin allen wrench. Just stick it in one of the wholes and spin it over the crank arm bolt. Then you loosen the crankarm bolt, which pushes against the easyout that is threaded into the crank arm and it pushes the arm off the spindle.

To get the rings off, you need a 5mm allen wrench to loosen the bolts. I would put a couple drops of thin lube on each one in the back, where the slotted nut is and let it sit for a couple hours. A lot of times you can press your finger against the slotted nut on the other side so it won't spin, so you can get the bolt out. It not, you need Park # CNW-2. It's a chainring nut wrench, that you put into the slotted nut while loosening the chainring bolt. I wish someone would come up with a better solution to this, I hate that little slotted nut and tool.


----------



## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

Thanks, I just shipped the Blackspire 32T and a 8mm Hex Wrench with a CWP-7. Will post pics back in a few weeks shipping takes 1-2 weeks down here 

FWIW getting the rings off is no problem but the mid/small won't fit past the crank, what are these 'easy outs' I've never heard of them before (for future reference obv).

GO ALL BLACKS !!!


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

OFFcourse said:


> Thanks, I just shipped the Blackspire 32T and a 8mm Hex Wrench with a CWP-7. Will post pics back in a few weeks shipping takes 1-2 weeks down here
> 
> FWIW getting the rings off is no problem but the mid/small won't fit past the crank, what are these 'easy outs' I've never heard of them before (for future reference obv).
> 
> GO ALL BLACKS !!!


They are also called self extracting crank bolts. You'll have to find one that fits you BB and crankset. Iv'e used them for years and they work great.

self extracting crank bolts | eBay


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

Just finished a thorough drive train cleaning and 1x8 conversion! I'll leave the front derailleur as a chain guide, till I get an actual chain guide. Had to use washers to replace the outer chain ring, again temporarily till I get some single chain ring bolts. But, it'll keep me on the trails in the meantime!


----------



## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

A BBG Bashguard costs a tiny bit more than some chainring bolts you could grab one of them instead of the smaller bolts


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Cormac, that's a good start -- I used the same zinc-plated, filed down washers on my first 1x conversion!


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Okay, so gone through well over a hundred miles on the soma. Shifted out of 44t 3 times. two of those just to see what it was like.

feeling like a 40t single up front is just gonna save weight and make sense!

Just waiting till next semester!


----------



## Teton29er (Jul 31, 2011)

OFFcourse said:


> Thanks, I just shipped the Blackspire 32T and a 8mm Hex Wrench with a CWP-7. Will post pics back in a few weeks shipping takes 1-2 weeks down here
> 
> FWIW getting the rings off is no problem but the mid/small won't fit past the crank, what are these 'easy outs' I've never heard of them before (for future reference obv).
> 
> GO ALL BLACKS !!!


Getting my stock mid ring off was like those frustrating little japanese puzzles. The solution was to unbolt the little ring first, and then the middle could tilt enough to be removed.

The little ring was also easy. I used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

I only mentioned cutting the little ring as a last resort measure! :eekster:


----------



## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

Yeah I want to keep my rings as they are pretty new still, just waiting on the tools to do it properly.


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

OFFcourse said:


> A BBG Bashguard costs a tiny bit more than some chainring bolts you could grab one of them instead of the smaller bolts


Thinkin of doin the bashwich. I've a 32 tooth on there now, so 2 34 tooth bash gards? Well I don't have the cash right now for that obviously, or I'da done something a little more permanent than washers.



J. Random Psycho said:


> Cormac, that's a good start -- I used the same zinc-plated, filed down washers on my first 1x conversion!


nice to know it works, and I'm not the only one!


----------



## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

You would put a 64 BCD 32T in place of the nanny ring and a 104 BCD 32T in place of the large ring.

Having a 34T Bash on the outside with a 32T chain ring would work fine (except you lose a small amount of ground clearance) but I can't see a 64 BCD 34T on the bbgbashguard site so they would be different sizes which would look a bit odd I think. Also some frames wouldn't be suited to have a big bash guard on the inside I guess, I think some couldn't fit the 32T infact.

More choices in a 32T bash too  I got a 104 BCD Oval 32T only 45g hopefully it arrives next week.


----------



## Metalhack (Aug 13, 2011)

*My Scott Scale Carbon 29r*










I was limited to what I could use as a chain keeper. The Scott carbon frame has a odd shape at the bottom of the seat post. I couldnt find a keeper that would fit. Also its a pressed fit BB, so I was limited their also.

A fellow MTBR memeber told me that eThirteen has a high mount keeper. I got that and a red eThirteen 32 Guidering.

High Mount Keeper

It works great. Even though mines a 1x10 theres no rub. Im gonna change out the RD for a short cage and upgrade the cranks next. Bike is clocking at at 22.7 with water cage.


----------



## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

All done 

Blackspire Chainring, 32t $38 - 43g
BBG Bashguard $20 - 47g
Ghetto stop $Zero - 20g

Total Cost $58 (ex-shipping) 
Total Weight Loss 557g (ex Ghetto stop, Shifter + F Derailer + 3 chainrings + 4 bolts = 647g)

Will put the ghetto-stop back on if I need to but the chain is gripping the new chainring like a stripper on a pole.


----------



## ranier (Sep 9, 2003)

RF SS crankset with a Black Spire Black Guard, 32T ring,









and full bike,


----------



## Billy_Heckler (Jul 7, 2011)

I've been following this thread, thinking about converting my 2x9 to a 1x9. Has anyone gone 1x9 from 2 or 3x9 and regretted it?
Thanks.


----------



## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

Billy_Heckler said:


> I've been following this thread, thinking about converting my 2x9 to a 1x9. Has anyone gone 1x9 from 2 or 3x9 and regretted it?
> Thanks.


Not really regret but on a couple of our trails, my buddies will go to the small ring on their 2x10's and rest at times and I'm still working pretty hard to keep up with them on the "resting climbs".

99% of the time I like the 1x9 but I am considering going with a 2x10. I have all the parts so I figure I might as well use them.


----------



## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

Bailey44; said:


> I like the 1x9 but I am considering going with a 2x10. I have all the parts so I figure I might as well use them.


I had to go back to a 2x setup....

All was good when I found a K-edge chain keeper & their light bashie which sorted the chain drop to the inside of the granny.

Probably gained a pound with adding shifter/derailuer but at least I can ride everywhere now......

There's a time and place for 1x.....unfortunately not all the time though.....


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I never ever leave 44t. on the longest, steepest of climbs I just mildly cross chain.

I don't understand how the other two are even needed. they seem to replicate gear ratios I can get with the cassette?


----------



## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

Agwan said:


> I don't understand how the other two are even needed. they seem to replicate gear ratios I can get with the cassette?


How? Age, fitness, body health, terrain, bike weight.......many reasons...

My doc told me 3 years ago to start "sitting & spining" and to stop "standing & mashing" if I wanted my knees to last and be healthy for the next 20 yrs...


----------



## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

Agwan said:


> I never ever leave 44t. on the longest, steepest of climbs I just mildly cross chain.
> 
> I don't understand how the other two are even needed. they seem to replicate gear ratios I can get with the cassette?


I'm going to go out on a limb and say your "steep" is a little different from other peoples "steep" :thumbsup:


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I live in Utah. We have Steep.

And I very rarely stand to pedal.


----------



## Jimmy.T (Jul 27, 2011)

my giant anthem x3 1x10

bbg bashgaurd with n-gear jump stop.
















.


----------



## Shawnee 1 (Feb 15, 2011)

I ran this set up for 3 years, before I broke frame. A micro drive sys. 26t front with a Granny God bash. 9 speed, hope hub with a 7-speed mod cass 21-11 and ran a 7-speed chain. I seem to snap 9-speed chains for some reason.
I will say, have been running a Trek 69er with 9-speed the last year with no chains snap.:thumbsup:


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Shawnee 1, is that a FC-M805 crankset (for 83 mm BB shells)? When I rigged a micro drive 1x6 to my Zaskar Trials, I chose FC-M815 for better chainline, and put spacers on axle to compensate for extra length.

If there were SLX cranksets for 83 mm shells, I'd prefer one of these.

Theoretically, a FC-M771 (trekking version of XT) could be used, because it has longer axle than typical 73 mm HT2 cranksets, but shorter than 83 mm cranksets. And it's lighter.


----------



## kitts21j (Feb 25, 2011)

Here is my 1x9 on our latest fall outing. Still loving, it certainly test your skill and fitness. But in the end it makes you a better and stronger rider.


----------



## Sorebuttbiker (May 1, 2011)

Here it is. Removed crank, installed Bashwich, realized I needed to remove some material from granny posts to bring inner bash closer. Removal of material accomplished, removed front derailleur, shifter and 4 chain links. Now I am ready for awesome 1x9ness....


----------



## Shawnee 1 (Feb 15, 2011)

J Randon, crankset M800 Saint, not sure on bb. I think I put extra shim on drive side, for chain line. Only problem was the 26-11, it would skip some time. Maybe not enough chain wrap or tight enough chain.


----------



## shirtz (Dec 9, 2007)

Sorebuttbiker said:


> Here it is. Removed crank, installed Bashwich, realized I needed to remove some material from granny posts to bring inner bash closer. Removal of material accomplished, removed front derailleur, shifter and 4 chain links. Now I am ready for awesome 1x9ness....


i was thinking of doing this. did you find the inner bash fouling on anything? how did you remove material?!?!?!


----------



## AllMountin' (Nov 23, 2010)

I was thinking of a double bash setup with a couple of BBGs, but if you run a 36 tooth up front, it limits your options.

Then I really liked the MRP 1.X, but I ride to many logs to not have a bash.

In the end I settled with the standard jump stop, a Salsa non-ramped 36T, and a Salsa Tooth Fairy. I like a little gription on my bash:


----------



## Sorebuttbiker (May 1, 2011)

shirtz said:


> i was thinking of doing this. did you find the inner bash fouling on anything? how did you remove material?!?!?!


There was gobs of room for the inner bash on the Trance. I used my trusty handy-dandy angle grinder for coarse bulk removal and then file for fine finish work to get the granny posts down. After cleaning all the grindings out the bolts threaded cleanly with no fouling or binding.

I initially installed everything before removing material and it was clear that if the chain came off to the inside there was enough flex in the inner bash where the whole mess could get jammed up. I took enough material off to get the inner bash the same distance from the ring as the outer bash and it looks like it will work fine. I dorked around my property and it held fine. I am already thinking of getting a 30 tooth.


----------



## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

I got around to removing a few links from my chain and it now sounds nasty going onto the largest cog  the inside of the chain is grinding on the second largest cog before moving into the largest which makes the derailer swing forward until it finally shifts. 
It also sounds kinda louder in the largest cog, do I just need to tighten the B-tension screw a little or did I lose to much chain? 

Chain is big to big (effective big on front) + 2links + powerlink and all the other shifts are great.


----------



## ranier (Sep 9, 2003)

Shawnee 1 said:


> I ran this set up for 3 years, before I broke frame. A micro drive sys. 26t front with a Granny God bash. 9 speed, hope hub with a 7-speed mod cass 21-11 and ran a 7-speed chain. I seem to snap 9-speed chains for some reason.
> I will say, have been running a Trek 69er with 9-speed the last year with no chains snap.:thumbsup:


OK, please explain the big 'ol dork disc.

I've seen something similar on bike polo bike wheels but they covered the whole wheel, almost like a aero roadie wheel.

Also (while we're in critique mode), your derailleur housing loop looks a little long.


----------



## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

I tightened the B-tension this morning and the shift is fine now, here's the gap on the largest does it look ball-park, too big too small?


----------



## 96p993 (May 21, 2011)

Alright so I have decided to piece together a 1x9 dirvetrain for my El Mariachi...Here is my plan

Wheelset- undetermined at this time
Rear Derailleur- Shimano Saint RD-M810-SS
Shifter- Shimano XTR or Saint depending on price tag
Cassette- SRAM PG-990 11-34 9 speed
Cable- Jagwire
Cranks- E13 XC single cranks on bike now 32 tooth chainring
Ring Guide- MRP1X

Anything I am missing or alternatives to my selections??

Thanks


----------



## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

96p993 said:


> Alright so I have decided to piece together a 1x9 dirvetrain for my El Mariachi...Here is my plan
> 
> Wheelset- undetermined at this time
> Rear Derailleur- Shimano Saint RD-M810-SS
> ...


Why not look into an IGH (Internally Geared Hub) option the Alfine8 give slightly more range than a 1x9 (someone correct me if I'm wrong) or the newer Alfine11 has even more and if you want to spend a ton get a rohloff.


----------



## 96p993 (May 21, 2011)

OFFcourse said:


> Why not look into an IGH (Internally Geared Hub) option the Alfine8 give slightly more range than a 1x9 (someone correct me if I'm wrong) or the newer Alfine11 has even more and if you want to spend a ton get a rohloff.


I have a decent amount of reading on the IGH but there is just something I dont trust about them especially during a race...


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

96p993 said:


> Alright so I have decided to piece together a 1x9 dirvetrain for my El Mariachi...Here is my plan
> 
> Wheelset- undetermined at this time
> Rear Derailleur- Shimano Saint RD-M810-SS
> ...


Sounds legit, but I'd go with Shimano cranks, likely SLX. And maybe an XT cassette. And some nice aluminim singlespeed chainring (possibly color matched to something on bike -- chainrings are very noticeable).


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Shawnee 1 said:


> I ran this set up for 3 years, before I broke frame. A micro drive sys. 26t front with a Granny God bash. 9 speed, hope hub with a 7-speed mod cass 21-11 and ran a 7-speed chain. I seem to snap 9-speed chains for some reason.
> I will say, have been running a Trek 69er with 9-speed the last year with no chains snap.:thumbsup:


To my knowledge, that's not microdrive.


----------



## 96p993 (May 21, 2011)

J. Random Psycho said:


> Sounds legit, but I'd go with Shimano cranks, likely SLX. And maybe an XT cassette. And some nice aluminim singlespeed chainring (possibly color matched to something on bike -- chainrings are very noticeable).


thanks but no chance Im getting rid of these cranks...I absolutely love them, solid and mean


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

rrdiaz30 said:


> I just finished a 1x9 conversion of my trusted 1999 Dean Colonel. John at Dean USA welded on the brake tabs and James Flatman at Alchemy Bicycle Co. did some cable boss mods. This is her 3rd major rebuild in 12 years. I blinged her out with some Moots and Eriksen Ti components and a Dean fork. It's all XT. BBG guard on an E-Thirteen 32T chainwheel. First ride tonight for a shakedown.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What an elegant ride.:thumbsup:


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

chelboed said:


> To my knowledge, that's not microdrive.


Well, some reserve the term microdrive for BMX style cranks and driver hubs with really low tooth count. And for some, even 104 BCD chainrings are microdrive. )

The question remains open whether a Hammerschmidt based drivetrain is microdrive.


----------



## Shawnee 1 (Feb 15, 2011)

ranier, The big dork disk has been called worse by my riding buddy. To explain, the Shawnee has a lot of girdle beetles that drop a lot of twigs on trail. The disk keeps the twigs ( pencil size ) out of spokes on drive side, which also keeps the twig from pulling the derailleur into the spokes.
Critique mode on the long loop, no problem. I tryed rollamajig for stright line pull, not much luck. So used a big loop (less kink) for easier shifting on a short cage derailleur. imo


----------



## MysticKJ (Jul 4, 2011)

I plan on converting to 1x9 from 3x9. I purchased a BBG Bashguard replacing the large chainring. However, I'm undecided on running one bashguard with a jumpstop or buying a second bashguard to replace the smallest chainring...

I ride a lot of roots, rocks, etc...technical terrain. Would either of those options be less likely to have the chain jump?

I ride a 2012 Giant Talon 29er 0...I'm actually looking forward to the 1x9 change because I have never used the smallest or largest chainrings before. I've only been riding for 3 and a half months, but so far I only need one chainring...


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

I've had minor issues with the JumpStop. I've had zero issues with the Blackspire Blackguard. I've recently ordered a BBG inner ring to try out. It's lighter than the Blackguard and the fact that it's thinner should ensure that there will be no clearance issues. (especially since I was running the Blackspire before)


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Here was my first venture into 1x9 (non chainguide) with the Blackspire in 2005 on this 2003 Komodo:

































Here it is on my '05 Komodo:









Here's what the BBG looks like:









IMO...if you're not doing DH/FR...you probably really don't need a guide. The chain sandwich has been the most effective setup for me. I did have a JumpStop and sold it as soon as I saw how spindly it was.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

chelboed said:


> I've had minor issues with the JumpStop. I've had zero issues with the Blackspire Blackguard.


I second this. ^^^

For some reason my Jump Stop would move out of alignment and then my chain would drop on rooty, technical climbs. When I changed over to an inner bashguard that problem went away. It looks really nice, too. :thumbsup:

I think the Jump Stop cost me around $12.00 shipped and the BBG inner bashguard cost around $18.00 shipped. So, cost really isn't much of a factor.

The only time I've heard people were unhappy with the BBG inner bashgaurd was when they were running small (maybe x-small?) frames. In those cases the inner 32t guard would rub against the chainstay. I've been lucky that it fit fine on my large GT frame. YMMV...


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

It's not necessarily the "bouncing" that causes the JumpStop to fail...but the bouncing mixed with the "powerr down". (as marpilli pointed out) Usually when I had any issues with the JumpStop, it was under power. The chain will bounce up and try to skip off the side...normally, this is where the JS will guide the chain back, but with the power on...it forces the chain between the JS and the middle ring.

The guide ring (blackspire / bbg) is much more rigid and won't flex like the JS.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

marpilli said:


> The only time I've heard people were unhappy with the BBG inner bashgaurd was when they were running small (maybe x-small?) frames. In those cases the inner 32t guard would rub against the chainstay. I've been lucky that it fit fine on my large GT frame. YMMV...


I had one frame that the Blackguard rubbed one layer of paint off my stay. The primer was still there. (that's close tolerances friends) My solution was to have someone spin my crankset as I used a Dremel on the edge of the Blackguard. I beveled it just a bit to give myself a bit more clearance.


----------



## MysticKJ (Jul 4, 2011)

Sorebuttbiker said:


> Here it is. Removed crank, installed Bashwich, realized I needed to remove some material from granny posts to bring inner bash closer. Removal of material accomplished, removed front derailleur, shifter and 4 chain links. Now I am ready for awesome 1x9ness....


what sizes are those bashguards? both 32T or a 32T and a 34T? I'm attempting a setup similar to yours with my Giant Talon...


----------



## 96p993 (May 21, 2011)

Has anyone put the Bashwich on a set of SS cranks? I would like to do this but I dont think I will have the room to do it without hitting my chainstay


----------



## mtborlando (Dec 2, 2010)

*GT Zaskar 1x9 Setup*

I converted to 1×9 bashwich and love it. I don't think my setup is appropriate for a 1x10 drivetrain. The space between the chainring and bashguards required for clean chain travel could allow the chain to slip between the ring and bashguard during bumpy pedaling.

M582 setup on deore LX hollowtech crankset
(2x) BBG bashrings for 32 tooth chainring $24
(1x) e.13 36t 104bcd Guide Ring, $26
mix of .5, 1 and 3 mm spacers (used a total of 12 to get proper alignment) Around $4.00
(1x) TruVativ Bolt Kit for Rock Guard or Ring Guard $9.00

total: $63.00


----------



## mtborlando (Dec 2, 2010)

*another image of my 1x9 setup*


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

mtborlando said:


> Message me if you have questions, I can supply a parts list to those you want help. Just need to look at my old orders to provide the exact chainring bolts and spacers.


Is that two 36t 104bcd bashguards? If so, could you snap some photos of the inner guard in relation to the chainring? What did you use for spacers?


----------



## mtborlando (Dec 2, 2010)

*re: Is that two 36t 104bcd bashguards?*

I just updated my post with parts and an image of the inside:

I cannot find my old order with BBG but I remember them being 32 tooth, I would ask Erin at BBG for a measurement if you cannot get it from the site for your chainring.

Since the rings are thin you will want to leave just enough distance for the chain to nest inside the bashwich and that's all. going too long on the bashrings will cause warpage and unneeded damage during hard pedaling and obstacle crosses like large logs.

see original post for size and order of spacers, good luck, let me know if you need anything else.

It took some time getting this right but now its bulletproof.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Thank you. I did something similar with the BBGs here. Except, I used the "granny guide" for the inner.

Do you know how long those TruVative bolts are?


----------



## mtborlando (Dec 2, 2010)

*re: Do you know how long those TruVative bolts are?*

I do not remember, I bought them at treefort bikes, the product link is below, the specs at Bikeman look correct:

TruVativ Bolt Kit for Rock Guard or Ring Guard in Tree Fort Bikes Chainring Bolts (cat479)

Bikeman TruVativ Bolt Kit for Rock Guard or Ring Guard


----------



## jwkj101401 (Mar 28, 2011)

*Just bought a 1x9*

Just picked up my first 1x9 and previous owner did not have any kind of method to keep chain from coming off inside, he said he never had an issue. Its a trek fuel, has blackspire bashguard on outside. Should I be concerned about it, my biggest concern is loosing chain under compression of rear suspension.


----------



## mtborlando (Dec 2, 2010)

I do a lot of riding on eroded dirt and sandy areas with roots and fallen trees. I had issues using the cheap post mount guide like you see on some of the other threads. My chain came off, my guide was getting thrashed and finally broke within five minutes into my planned two hour ride. This sucked... I had to turn back and head home.

The bashwich is near bulletproof when done right. BBG has some stuff for around 12 bucks, so I would get the inner to be safe.

Been riding with mine for a year now with no issues at all.


----------



## namaSSte (Dec 19, 2003)

mtborlando said:


> I converted to 1×9 bashwich and love it. I don't think my setup is appropriate for a 1x10 drivetrain. The space between the chainring and bashguards required for clean chain travel could allow the chain to slip between the ring and bashguard during bumpy pedaling.
> 
> M582 setup on deore LX hollowtech crankset
> (2x) BBG bashrings for 32 tooth chainring $24
> ...


than ks for this but I still (being the knucklehead I am being) have a question. I was planning on simply removing the granny ring and big ring and replacing them with the BBG guards. Is that impossible without spacers and the bolt kit? In the past, I've used washer from the local hardware store to space out bashguards so I wouldn't need different bolt kits (although I may have the bolts at home already, have to dig through my tool drawers). In any case, I just went from my SS back to FS and cannot imagine what Id do with so many gears so the first order of business is to get it into 1x9 mode. Thanks.!


----------



## mtborlando (Dec 2, 2010)

*re: namaSSte*

That's what I was originally thinking I would do when I started the project. For my crank it did not work and I am assuming the same will hold true for you.

There will be too much space if you plan on attaching the bashrings to the inner and outer chainring locations making them sort of pointless, and there will most likely be frame rub.

Another problem is that nobody I know of makes a plate with bolts small enough to match the location of your granny gear. I measured and could only find bashrings that were way too small in diameter for my 36tooth setup.

hope this helps, see my original post for the order and location of spacers.

Best,

Nate


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

namaSSte said:


> than ks for this but I still (being the knucklehead I am being) have a question. I was planning on simply removing the granny ring and big ring and replacing them with the BBG guards. Is that impossible without spacers and the bolt kit?


That's exactly what I did and it worked out fine. Standard bolts on the granny bash, no spacers...


----------



## carlosng (Aug 4, 2011)

Blackspire Mono Veloce 32T
BBG SANDWITCH


----------



## namaSSte (Dec 19, 2003)

mtborlando said:


> That's what I was originally thinking I would do when I started the project. For my crank it did not work and I am assuming the same will hold true for you.
> 
> There will be too much space if you plan on attaching the bashrings to the inner and outer chainring locations making them sort of pointless, and there will most likely be frame rub.
> 
> ...


Thanks Nate. Sounds like one of those things that you figure out once it all comes apart and you try to put it back together, huh? I may grab some spacers from the hardware store in advance since they are so cheap then just see how things line up. Appreciate the help.


----------



## namaSSte (Dec 19, 2003)

marpilli said:


> That's exactly what I did and it worked out fine. Standard bolts on the granny bash, no spacers...


thanks, sure hoping it goes this easily for me too. I like this setup with the clean look and I'm really hoping there's less chainsuck than there used to be with my old E13 full guide.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

namaSSte,
there must be something wrong with your drivetrain if presence of lower chainguide is found enough to trigger chainsuck.


----------



## namaSSte (Dec 19, 2003)

J. Random Psycho said:


> namaSSte,
> there must be something wrong with your drivetrain if presence of lower chainguide is found enough to trigger chainsuck.


Not when it was clean but if I got much mud in that E13 SRS on my Heckler and backpedaled at all, it definitely sucked. Could have been how I had it set up, I honestly don't know.


----------



## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

Gripo said:


> I had to go back to a 2x setup....
> 
> All was good when I found a K-edge chain keeper & their light bashie which sorted the chain drop to the inside of the granny.
> 
> ...


I actually just went from a 1x9 to a 2x10. I love the look and simple approach of the 1x9 but I have always been the best climber out of my ride group and 2 buddies changed to 2x10 and all the sudden, I was the 3rd best climber. I will have none of that!





































I haven't been on the group ride yet but on the first and only ride so far; 3 minutes faster, 0.4 mph faster and heart rate was lower.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

I'm back to a 1x9 on the AMHT. My new trail network isn't quite as climby as my old local trails...and I was ready for a change. I'll try to get better pic's in the daytime. I went with a BBG bash and a BBG inner.

I might add that I moved my chainline inward one spacer to get the right line in all gears. It was a little wide in the 34t on my rear cog, so I moved one BB spacer from the drive to non-drive side and it made it just about perfect in the 34 as well as the 11t.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Bailey44 said:


> I actually just went from a 1x9 to a 2x10.


Turncoat! We'll have none of that here! Well, ok, that is a nice looking bike... :thumbsup:

I wondered why you were selling your SS chainrings...


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Daytime pic's of the new ChainSandwich:


































This setup is lighter then the Blackspire Blackguard and IMO looks a bit less cobby. Cleaner look. Still loving the BBG outer bash too!


----------



## Tubedriver (Sep 19, 2008)

frame: Orange prestige
hubs/headset: king
rims: Mavic 819
crankset: XT
derailleur: ultegra
fork: 120mm Reba 15mm thru axle
rear axle: 10mm Hadley
seatpost: USE
stem/seat post collar: Thomson
handlebar: 31.8 Mary
brakes: Avid Elixir 9
shifter: XTR
Tires: Schawlbe Hans Demph (tubeless)
pedals: XTR
seat: Selle Flite
chain ring guard: Truvative
chain keeper: NGear Jumpstop

BTW: Ultegra short cage rear derailller works fine with XT 12-32 Cogset. Front chain ring is a BlackSpire 32t. Rear cogset is custom 12-14-15-16-18-21-24-28-32.


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I'm having a hard rime finding a bashwich for a 40t


----------



## Guest (Nov 26, 2011)

I'm worried about need a chain tension pulley. Whats the formula on removing links? Or do you just keep removing them until you feel comfortable with it? I'd perfer math though.


----------



## Guest (Nov 26, 2011)

I'm worried about need a chain tension pulley. Whats the formula on removing links? Or do you just keep removing them until you feel comfortable with it? I'd prefer math though.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

-eddie.,
I follow the usual method every time I set up a drivetrain like this. With chain on largest sprockets and not through rear derailer, add 1 full link over what seems necessary to connect the chain.


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

J. Random Psycho said:


> -eddie.,
> I follow the usual method every time I set up a drivetrain like this. With chain on largest sprockets and not through rear derailer, add 1 full link over what seems necessary to connect the chain.


I've heard 2 links. Either way, does it matter if you have a short, medium or long cage derailleur as to how many links to add?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Cormac said:


> I've heard 2 links. Either way, does it matter if you have a short, medium or long cage derailleur as to how many links to add?


By 2 links, do you mean 2 _full_ links, that is, 2 inches of chain?

Length of derailer cage has no effect on chain length.


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

Might not have been 2 full links then. Thanks.


----------



## Guest (Nov 28, 2011)

ordering the n stop, different sizes??? i have a litespeed pisgah. no idea what size i need. feel like a moran b/c i can't find it online.


----------



## Guest (Nov 28, 2011)

N Gear Jump Stop Chain Deflector

what size will i need for a litespeed pisgah?


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

-eddie. said:


> N Gear Jump Stop Chain Deflector
> 
> what size will i need for a litespeed pisgah?


may depend on the year of your frame. i've had hardtails with 28.6mm, 31.8mm, and 34.9mm so who knows?

assuming you are removing a front mech, it ought to have it on there somewhere.

or, what's your post/seat clamp sizing?

failing that, a cheap set of calipers of your own, or short trip to the shop to find out.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

-eddie.,
measure the diameter of your seat tube just below the area where front derailer clamp would be. Then look for the closest Jump Stop size.

If your seat tube is slightly thicker than Jump Stop would like (say, 35.1 mm instead of 34.9 mm), it helps to keep the plastic clamp in boiling water and then stretch it some. I did it 3 times with mine (put a 34.9 mm JS on a Zaskar Trials frame).

PS
Oops, it's been answered already.


----------



## earthltd (Jun 22, 2011)

*1x8 Marlin 29er*

Started with a 2011 Trek Marlin.
Decided it was too pretty and painted it.
Also realized that I didn't need more than one 36T crank gear and started buying parts (before I knew about this thread).
11-32t at rear



















K-Edge XL Cross Chain Catcher
Shimano Alivio crankset
Shimano UN53 Bottom Bracket
RaceFace Single Chainring 36T
Salsa Ring Dinger


----------



## namaSSte (Dec 19, 2003)

marpilli said:


> That's exactly what I did and it worked out fine. Standard bolts on the granny bash, no spacers...


put mine all together last night and it really was exactly as you mentioned. no spacers needed.


----------



## Tubedriver (Sep 19, 2008)

Took a couple more pics. Removed the 11-27 ultegra cassette and went with a 14-32 9-spd setup. Bike is fun.


----------



## mtborlando (Dec 2, 2010)

*re: Thank you. I did something similar with the BBGs here.*

Dude, this thing is money, looks great!



marpilli said:


> Updated my 1x8 with a 30t chainring and BBG bashguards. :thumbsup:
> 
> View attachment 641188
> 
> ...


----------



## mtborlando (Dec 2, 2010)

I love the way the red looks, it really makes the bike look awesome. How much was the outer bash guard?



marpilli said:


> That's exactly what I did and it worked out fine. Standard bolts on the granny bash, no spacers...


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

mtborlando said:


> I love the way the red looks, it really makes the bike look awesome. How much was the outer bash guard?


Thank you for the compliment. I'm very happy with how it's working out. I haven't dropped a chain or had to make any adjustment since the first setup. Very low maintenance...

More info on the part numbers and pricing here:
GT Frame Build-Up - 2005 Aggressor - Post 172

Outter bash was $20 + $6 shipping
Inner bash was $12 + $6 shipping

Grand total $44.00

Kinda stinks that BBG didn't combine shipping (especially since both were sent in the same mailer envelope... Still, it's a quality product at a good price so I can't complain. I wouldn't hesitate to use this setup again.


----------



## MysticKJ (Jul 4, 2011)

marpilli said:


> That's exactly what I did and it worked out fine. Standard bolts on the granny bash, no spacers...


i have this exact setup concerning the bashwich...there is one steep climb on the trails I ride that causes the chain to hop off...Initially, there wasn't enough space between the BBG bashguards and the chainring for the chain to slip into, but it hops in there on the same hill everytime I ride that hill...now, there is a good deal of room between the inner bashguard and the chainring...

what do all you bashwich users do to ensure your chain does not hop off the chainring? when I set mine up, I removed about 5 single links...is it possible I need to remove more? my RD forms about a 45 degree angle between the ground and chainstay at the moment...

sorry no pic, bike is in the shop right now...i'll upload pics tomorrow...


----------



## mtborlando (Dec 2, 2010)

Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Chain Installation - Derailleur Bikes


----------



## mtborlando (Dec 2, 2010)

check out "tubedriver's" pics above and mine, you will see how the chains seat inside the bashwich.


----------



## dbfutrell (Apr 1, 2011)

*2x9.....so far*

How long do you think it'll take before I bite the bullet and go 1x9? :thumbsup:


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

dbfutrell said:


> How long do you think it'll take before I bite the bullet and go 1x9? :thumbsup:


Just do it! I'm new to the sport and did it after only a couple months.


----------



## chantheman84 (Sep 20, 2011)

1x9 Moto setup for XC racing this season 
RaceFace Single 38t - 11/34 cassette
Paul Chain Keeper , working good , no chain drops to date,
and I ride rough and fast!:thumbsup:


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

What about that is "Moto"?


----------



## chantheman84 (Sep 20, 2011)

My bike, "Moto" becane, duh.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Lol! Duh, indeed.


----------



## dbfutrell (Apr 1, 2011)

Cormac said:


> Just do it! I'm new to the sport and did it after only a couple months.


I'm trying every time I ride NOT to shift into the granny gear 22T. Once I find I'm not missing anything with the 22T - that b!tch is gone! 

what's your set up?


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

dbfutrell said:


> I'm trying every time I ride NOT to shift into the granny gear 22T. Once I find I'm not missing anything with the 22T - that b!tch is gone!
> 
> what's your set up?


I'm tellin ya ditch the ***** :thumbsup:

My set up is 1x8 on a Cannondale 29er SL4. Picks on the previous page. Gonna be getting a bashwich sometime before spring. Mean time 32 tooth on front and 11 - 34 I think on the rear. Whatever the rear is it gives me all the gears I need! There are a few climbs I struggle with to be sure, but I just mash it out. Things have gotten much easier since making the leap.

Entry level bike, but runnin 1x8 is definitely a step up!


----------



## Sorebuttbiker (May 1, 2011)

MysticKJ said:


> i have this exact setup concerning the bashwich...there is one steep climb on the trails I ride that causes the chain to hop off...Initially, there wasn't enough space between the BBG bashguards and the chainring for the chain to slip into, but it hops in there on the same hill everytime I ride that hill...now, there is a good deal of room between the inner bashguard and the chainring...
> 
> what do all you bashwich users do to ensure your chain does not hop off the chainring? when I set mine up, I removed about 5 single links...is it possible I need to remove more? my RD forms about a 45 degree angle between the ground and chainstay at the moment...
> 
> sorry no pic, bike is in the shop right now...i'll upload pics tomorrow...


When I put my bashwich together I immediately saw there was too much space between the chainring and the inner bash. My solution involved an angle grinder. Ground down the mounting points so the inner bash would be closer to the chainring. Worked awesome but if I ever want to put the granny gear back on I'll have to use some spacers. I haven't dropped the chain yet and I am still using the stock shifty ring.


----------



## dbfutrell (Apr 1, 2011)

*confused....*



Cormac said:


> I'm tellin ya ditch the ***** :thumbsup:
> 
> My set up is 1x8 on a Cannondale 29er SL4. Picks on the previous page. Gonna be getting a bashwich sometime before spring. Mean time 32 tooth on front and 11 - 34 I think on the rear. Whatever the rear is it gives me all the gears I need! There are a few climbs I struggle with to be sure, but I just mash it out. Things have gotten much easier since making the leap.
> 
> Entry level bike, but runnin 1x8 is definitely a step up!


I looked at your set up and noticed that you had to grind something and add washers or something??? Eeek....I dunno If I wanna get into all of that. If you were to do it again, would you do something different? Buy nex bolts or a new chainring or something like that?


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

dbfutrell said:


> I looked at your set up and noticed that you had to grind something and add washers or something??? Eeek....I dunno If I wanna get into all of that. If you were to do it again, would you do something different? Buy nex bolts or a new chainring or something like that?


I just had to grind down one side of the washers to get them to fit. They are still plenty strong enough. The crank and chainring are untouched. Like I said I'm going to get the bashwich from BBG sometime before spring. Which will clean up the look quite nicely. As well will serve as a chainguide! The front deraliure is acceptable for now, but I still lose the chain on really rough and fast downhill sections. I could have bought SS chainring bolts, but didn't feel the need since I'll need the triple for the bashwich anyway.

I'm planning to build a bike sometime in the next couple years. After upgrading this one as much as possible, minus frame specific parts such as seat post. That bike will be 1x8 as well. For that build I might just go with a SS crank and use a chainguide. Haven't decided for sure on that. Will have to see how well the bashwich works. Speaking of SS I do need to pick up a 32t SS chainring for this set up. I'm running the original middle ring.

This was a cheap way to try out the 1x thing. If I didn't like it I could switch back and not be out any money. But I've fallen in love with the simplicity. Cockpit looks nice and clean with just 1 shifter! And I don't even think about needing a shift for the front anymore. While my friends still spin up the hills, I get to take a break at the top and wait for em!


----------



## jkirkpatri (Sep 16, 2008)




----------



## chantheman84 (Sep 20, 2011)

Switch from a Paul's chainkeeper to MRP 1x , Paul's just wasn't cuttin the butter for me


----------



## dbfutrell (Apr 1, 2011)

jkirkpatri said:


>


No chain drop with this set up? Looks good - just curious, everyone else is using a chain keeper or chain guide.


----------



## jkirkpatri (Sep 16, 2008)

We shall see. Bashwich didn't work out due to chainstay clearance issues. I'll report back if I experience any drop or not.


----------



## chantheman84 (Sep 20, 2011)

More pics b cuz I love this bike!! :thumbsup:


----------



## 96p993 (May 21, 2011)

Need a bit of help from anyone that is running a true SS crankset...I am getting everything together to get my 1x9 setup, my last step is getting either a chainguide or a bashguard setup. I dont think I will be able to get a bashwich due to chainstay clearance. Im wondering what people are using if this is the case...

Thanks


----------



## earthltd (Jun 22, 2011)

"I dont think I will be able to get a bashwich due to chainstay clearance. Im wondering what people are using if this is the case..."

The bashwich looks great but if you don't have the room because of chainstay clearance (I didn't) here's a less appealing option. 


















K-Edge XL Cross Chain Catcher 
RaceFace Single Chainring 36T
Salsa Ring Dinger


----------



## ranier (Sep 9, 2003)

96p993 said:


> Im wondering what people are using if this is the case...
> 
> Thanks


-N-gear jumpstop
-chainring
-Salsa chainring guard


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

My bashwich came in yesterday. $44 shipped. Cost more than others have said because I wanted the fancy pants oval holes. So I finally got rid of those unsightly ground down washers. Dunno how well it works yet, hope to find out either tomorrow and or sunday! Chainstay clearance is real close. Somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8 inch. I'll be keeping my eye on that for awhile. Shouldn't be an issue, but I'm paranoid about such things.


----------



## tymbian (Dec 7, 2011)

I'm wanting to try the whole 1X9 setup thing running a 30t inner ring. I'm currently running 11 - 34 cassette and want to change this to a 12 - 36 ( swapping the 12 out for an 11 ). I'm using Diablos cranks on a 2011 Commencal Meta 6. Is my Idea at all do-able without chainline problems etc? Also what options do I have regarding Chain retention, guiding etc. and bash-guards. Is anyone running a 1x9 using the inner ?:thumbsup:


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

tymbian said:


> Is anyone running a 1x9 using the inner ?


What crankset are you going to use? You'll have to take explicit measures to improve chainline.

This thread has some interesting setups with driving ring in granny position. I recall one FS frame where a modified Blackspire Stinger and upper cage guide have been used, one at ISCG mount and another, BB mount.

It's not mandatory that you go top and bottom chain retention, of course.


----------



## tymbian (Dec 7, 2011)

I'm currently using a Diablos crank but am after changing it to a more xc/am crank as the Diablos is too much crank. Is there a crank where this would work better than others?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Well, for 1x6 with Hope Pro 2 Trials hub (6 cogs of a spiderless 8-speed cassette) and 24T chainring I went with Saint FC-M815-1. The one for 83 mm BB shells and no threads for granny bolts (holes were there, however, so with a little DIY effort the threads have been cut). I used a Diabolus granny spacer, because Saint spider has granny mount points flush. The frame has 73 mm BB shell, so I used Diabolus axle spacer kit (intended for some Specialized frames originally, as I recall).

Chainline on that bike is around 56 mm now. I used Truvativ bash ring that originally came with Holzfeller Trials crankset. Because of it's thickness I had to mount it in outside position (had to file it down to clear crank arm, too), and it's a little too outboard -- too far from the chain. But I had the chain drop to the inside, never to the outside so far. So I put a Jump Stop on there, which barely fit that low on the seat tube, chainring being almost too small.


----------



## hiver (Oct 30, 2009)

Hi all,

I need to choose a BB30 crankset for running 1x9, and it seems most options available are with 2 or 3 chainrings.

So - do they exist with one chainring in BB30, or do I need to buy chainrings I wont use - or what do you recommend?

Thanks, M


----------



## hardtailkid (Jan 25, 2010)

hiver said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I need to choose a BB30 crankset for running 1x9, and it seems most options available are with 2 or 3 chainrings.
> 
> ...


Buy a crankset.

Take off the granny ring.

Take off the big ring.


----------



## hiver (Oct 30, 2009)

hardtailkid said:


> Buy a crankset.
> 
> Take off the granny ring.
> 
> Take off the big ring.


OK. just figured the market would have picked up on this by now, but guess not.

Thanks


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I'm pretty sure it has

Cranksets | SRAM


----------



## Guest (Dec 31, 2011)

I had to use a middleburn xtr spider, 33t blackspire mono veloce chainring, 1 3/8 n stop, and BBG bashguard. 

Look out Pisgah. We're coming in force this year.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

After my 8 speed drivetrain self destructed last Saturday, I had to replace a bunch of stuff. Introducing my 1x10 XT update. :thumbsup:


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

marpilli, what's that stem? Looks very low stack.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

J. Random Psycho said:


> marpilli, what's that stem? Looks very low stack.


It's a Spank Spike stem. You're correct that it has a very low stack height. I had a fork with a steerer too short for my frame and this was how I solved the problem.

26mm stack height, 31.8 bar clamp, 1-1/8" stem, and 35mm long. I corrected the height by using some (very) high-rise bars. It took a few rides to get the feel of the short stem.

Here's a closeup from an older photo.


----------



## Bike Love (Jan 13, 2012)

*Anyone using 12-36 cassette? or touring with 1x9?*

Building up an old Moots YBB frame 1x9 (pics forthcoming) and would like to do some dirt touring.

Is anyone making use of a Shimano or SRAM cassette with a top cog of 36t rather than 34, 32 or smaller? Shimano at least makes a 12-36 cassette. I think SRAM does too. Those extra few gear inches can be really nice when yer hauling camping gear.

Anyone touring with their 1x9er ? pics?


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Beat this set up all over my city this evening. still trying to figure out why I need a chain guide.

Ordering a 40t in a bit... but giving this a bit of time to see if I like it. but if a gated chainring doesn't drop chains. I cant help but think an ungated guidering will have issue.

so... when are these set ups dropping chains?


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Bike Love, I'm using an 11-36 10spd cassette with a 30t chainring. All the benefits of 1x and I get to keep some low gearing. 

Agwan, I had trouble when in a low gear and climbing rooty trails. The chain would drop on the inside.


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

Agwan said:


> Beat this set up all over my city this evening. still trying to figure out why I need a chain guide.
> 
> Ordering a 40t in a bit... but giving this a bit of time to see if I like it. but if a gated chainring doesn't drop chains. I cant help but think an ungated guidering will have issue.
> 
> so... when are these set ups dropping chains?


Dirt, Roots and Rocks !!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## maxbacon (Apr 14, 2005)

32 x 11-34


----------



## KingOfTheHill (Sep 19, 2007)

32 up front, 11-32 rear.


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I don't understand how you can be happy with the 32 up front. I mean, at 32-11 I can't find a hill too steep to climb. I am hoping 40-11 will give me enough torque.

I barely go above about 17 even with a 44. I just... I should have built a CX not an XC... I just cant get enough speed, nor can I get my legs tired.

ARGDHKGKHGHK! *rage*


----------



## jten9 (Apr 8, 2010)

Agwan-

32 front would be for MOUNTAIN biking... it sounds like you are doing road/urban riding. If that is the case, then yes, larger rings in front would make sense for you. 

Sent using Tapatalk


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Agwan said:


> Beat this set up all over my city this evening. still trying to figure out why I need a chain guide.
> 
> Ordering a 40t in a bit... but giving this a bit of time to see if I like it. but if a gated chainring doesn't drop chains. I cant help but think an ungated guidering will have issue.
> 
> so... when are these set ups dropping chains?





Agwan said:


> I don't understand how you can be happy with the 32 up front. I mean, at 32-11 I can't find a hill too steep to climb. I am hoping 40-11 will give me enough torque.
> 
> I barely go above about 17 even with a 44. I just... I should have built a CX not an XC... I just cant get enough speed, nor can I get my legs tired.
> 
> ARGDHKGKHGHK! *rage*


I'm noticing a pattern here... Are you riding that 1x9 on paved / gravel trails? If so, most of the gearing and chain retention chit-chat in here won't apply to you...


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

my commute is over pavement (right now that is covered in huge chunks of ice) my trails are in Ogden, So my trails are mostly hardpacked clay with mild gravel. 

So yeah, spoiled. but off road or on. I keep wanting to push myself, find new walls and set new fitness goals... I just can't do it... no matter where I ride, no matter how steep the gearing, I can't get my muscles tired or do any cardio work. I've hit a wall. I cant go to bed sore and I am still chubby,

/End off topic rant


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Agwan said:


> my commute is over pavement (right now that is covered in huge chunks of ice) my trails are in Ogden, So my trails are mostly hardpacked clay with mild gravel.
> 
> So yeah, spoiled. but off road or on. I keep wanting to push myself, find new walls and set new fitness goals... I just can't do it... no matter where I ride, no matter how steep the gearing, I can't get my muscles tired or do any cardio work. I've hit a wall. I cant go to bed sore and I am still chubby,
> 
> /End off topic rant


I would recommend some trails with elevation changes. If that's Ogden Utah, then I'd suggest you go here and ask about challenging trails in your area.

Or, just find the steepest paved road in town and ride repeats until your exhausted.


----------



## jten9 (Apr 8, 2010)

Agwan said:


> ....but off road or on. I keep wanting to push myself, find new walls and set new fitness goals... I just can't do it... no matter where I ride, no matter how steep the gearing, I can't get my muscles tired or do any cardio work. I've hit a wall. I cant go to bed sore and I am still chubby,
> 
> /End off topic rant


Perhaps its time for the Pro Tour or World Cup ;-)

Sent using Tapatalk


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

jten9 said:


> Perhaps its time for the Pro Tour or World Cup ;-)
> 
> Sent using Tapatalk


Perhaps its time my inexperienced Dirt Jumping butt learned how to train like a serious cyclist, instead of point-Pedal-repeat.


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

Agwan said:


> Perhaps its time my inexperienced Dirt Jumping butt learned how to train like a serious cyclist, instead of point-Pedal-repeat.


buy a road bike perhaps? Then you can have 52 teeth up front. Not sure what the max is, but that's pretty close. I'm sure you can wear your legs out plenty that way. If not then your super human.


----------



## fire_strom (Sep 4, 2009)

Lance, is that you?
G



Agwan said:


> I don't understand how you can be happy with the 32 up front. I mean, at 32-11 I can't find a hill too steep to climb. I am hoping 40-11 will give me enough torque.
> 
> I barely go above about 17 even with a 44. I just... I should have built a CX not an XC... I just cant get enough speed, nor can I get my legs tired.
> 
> ARGDHKGKHGHK! *rage*


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Cormac said:


> buy a road bike perhaps? Then you can have 52 teeth up front. Not sure what the max is, but that's pretty close. I'm sure you can wear your legs out plenty that way. If not then your super human.


how about this thingy? I got for free, I'm thinking single speed.

that fork makes me nervous... cant tell if its bent or old school. I think this may fullfill my masochistic urges.


----------



## jten9 (Apr 8, 2010)

Fork definitely looks bent. 

Sent using Tapatalk


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

^^^ I agree. That thing has been crashed and I'd consider it dangerous to ride.


----------



## jten9 (Apr 8, 2010)

Agwan- if you are into the vintage stuff, that might be a cool frame. You would need a new fork, and check that the frame itself isn't damaged. There is a decent vintage forum in the bikeforum.net site if you are interested in more info.

Sorry all for the derail...

Sent using Tapatalk


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Sweet, thanks, *heads over to bike forums*


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

So I plan on going with a 1x9 on my brother's Kona Stinky frame, and already bought an E13 LG1+ guide for it, 32T ring, and SLX GS rear der. But I've come across this setup too, looks clean.

Question is, with a BBG sandwich, do I buy 32T bashguards or 34T? What's a better setup? The E13 guide or the BBG sandwich with a Blackspire Stinger? Any chance of the chain coming off from the BBG sandwich as there is no top guide?



elandy said:


> Im running a 1x10, 32T and 11-36, BBG sandwich and blackspire lower guide


----------



## Guest (Jan 28, 2012)

with the tensioner it should pull tight enough it shouldn't jump off from the top. I personally run one size up with the bashguard, i like the extra space b/t the chain and lip of the guard. I run 32 teeth, but have a 34 guard. we're talking grams, and if your going DH whats it matter?


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

^ I run just the bashwich no chain tensioner and haven't had any issues dropping chains. The inner bashguard is only available in the 32t that I could see on the site. But if your running a 32t chainring then you need the 32t bashguard(s)


----------



## Guest (Jan 28, 2012)

as long as the BCD is the same you could technically run whatever you want.


----------



## JeepBoy (Jan 29, 2012)

Forgive my unknowingness but what advantages are there to running a 1x9 compared to 3x7 or whatever..I mean I always enjoyed my single chain when I was little cause I could do a power slide haha But I'm a noob and just trying to learn. Please forgive me. 

ps- Is there like a thread for noods? haha like me.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

JeepBoy, it depends on what type of trails you're riding. For me, it's mostly XC / Trail riding. There aren't any big downhill sections (requiring a large chainring) and there aren't any huge sustained climbs (requiring a small chainring). 

If you find that you're never switching off of the middle chainring, then you're a 1x? candidate. Overall it's a little less weight (remove chainrings, front derailleur and shifter) and simplicity (no overlapping gears or cross chaining).


----------



## JeepBoy (Jan 29, 2012)

marpilli said:


> JeepBoy, it depends on what type of trails you're riding. For me, it's mostly XC / Trail riding. There aren't any big downhill sections (requiring a large chainring) and there aren't any huge sustained climbs (requiring a small chainring).
> 
> If you find that you're never switching off of the middle chainring, then you're a 1x? candidate. Overall it's a little less weight (remove chainrings, front derailleur and shifter) and simplicity (no overlapping gears or cross chaining).


Hmm well I pretty much stayed on 2x6 (six is the smallest physical gear size right?)


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Not sure I understand. In an AxB configuration, the A refers to how many chainrings you have up front and the B refers to how many cogs you have on the cassette.


----------



## JeepBoy (Jan 29, 2012)

marpilli said:


> Not sure I understand. In an AxB configuration, the A refers to how many chainrings you have up front and the B refers to how many cogs you have on the cassette.


Im sorry im a noob. Yes I knew that about the front/rear. What I was say is I didnt know if the gears were like: (bike) [1] [2] [3] (peddle) Or if they were (bike) [3] [2] [1] (peddle)

And for the rear are the rear gear called cassettes? & does it go (bike) [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6]? 1 being the largest and 6 being the smallest?


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I rode for several months with a 3x9, and in those months I never left my 44t. and I never really needed to go higher than 21t on my cassette.

Today I swapped in my 40t for my 32t. happy to get some power back. but I don't really need to leave the bottom 3 pretty much ever.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

-eddie. said:


> with the tensioner it should pull tight enough it shouldn't jump off from the top. I personally run one size up with the bashguard, i like the extra space b/t the chain and lip of the guard. I run 32 teeth, but have a 34 guard. we're talking grams, and if your going DH whats it matter?


Any pics?

And I'm definitely going with the BBG sandwich route. Upon cleaning and inspecting the E13 LG1+ guide that I bough used for $80, the top guide is cracked and so is the lower bashguard. Seller agreed to take it back and there's no way I'm spending $120+ on a new one, these chainguides are absurdly priced for what they offer lol.

BBG sandwich is $30 shipped. :thumbsup:


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

And will a medium cage SLX GS derailleur suffice for this 1x9 experiment (BBG sandwich + Blackspire Stinger) or do I need a short cage SRAM derailleur?


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

I love my BBG setup and it hasn't dropped the chain once.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

eurospek said:


> And will a medium cage SLX GS derailleur suffice for this 1x9 experiment (BBG sandwich + Blackspire Stinger) or do I need a short cage SRAM derailleur?


Either will work. I ran a long cage LX for awhile without any problems and recently upgraded to a mid-cage XT. I think they say there's less chain slap with the shorter cages. But, I've not noticed.


----------



## Guest (Jan 29, 2012)

your in it buddy.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Found pics of this setup but no info, any idea on what chainguide that is?


----------



## 661lee (Apr 11, 2007)

Looks like a Gamut.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

eurospek,
that's a Gamut guide, but with Race Face bash ring. Gamuts come with either plastic bash ring, or a (too) thin aluminum one. That RF ring is thicker and can actually be used to bash into stuff.

PS
Damn. I haven't updated the page to notice it has been answered already.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

661lee said:


> Looks like a Gamut.





J. Random Psycho said:


> eurospek,
> that's a Gamut guide, but with Race Face bash ring. Gamuts come with either plastic bash ring, or a (too) thin aluminum one. That RF ring is thicker and can actually be used to bash into stuff.
> 
> PS
> Damn. I haven't updated the page to notice it has been answered already.


Thanks, I ended up emailing that owner and luckily got a response. It's the Gamut P20 like mentioned with a 34T Raceface Bash.

Figured it was some cheap guide seeing the Raceface bash, but I guess not. 

I do like the top guide and bottom roller and the ability of rocking a metal bashguard instead of the plastic kind, but after looking at the price of it, again $100+, I'm just going to give the BBG sandwich a try and see if I drop the chain with it and instead require some more serious chain retention. :thumbsup:

Never dropped the chain to the outside on the Stinky with a 2x9 but dropping it to the granny was always a problem. Hopefully the inner BBG guard will prevent any chain issues.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

I didn't like my Gamut too much when I had it (on FS bike). Noisy and it did drop chain once or twice. If I was to build 1xN these days, I'd try Straitline Silent Guide..


----------



## Polish Prince (Jan 28, 2012)

I am considering updating my 7 speed to 9 speed. (2010 Hardrock).
The X4 rear der is 7/8 speed not 9. (On the SRAM site).
My LBS said the pulleys on the X4 are too wide for a nine speed chain.
Anyone running a nine speed chain on an X4.
This seemed like a great place to ask because of so many nine speed setups.
Thanks in advance for any feedback


----------



## FlowinFlo (Jan 29, 2012)

I never had problems of running a (thinner) 10speed chain on a 9speed, so the 9speed chain should also work on your 7speed.


----------



## jossa (Jan 10, 2010)

My wet/muddy ride, with the kids ride, just want some simple fun ride, second bike which has seen 3x9, 1x1 and at the moment 1x9. 

XT RD, Blackspire Mono chainring and MRP XC guide. Works beautifully!


----------



## gddyap (Sep 29, 2011)

Here's my cheap chain guide:



1x7 on a Breezer Lightning. 32 x 12-32. Spot bash guard. I'll probably get an N-gear jumpstop eventually unless the reflector actually works. I didn't previously have any problems on a few trail rides and then I did a cyclocross race and I had to stop to put my chain back on at least 5 times.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

^^^ Smart solution!


----------



## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

gddyap said:


> Here's my cheap chain guide:


Ingenious, very interesting and a good idea for a normally useless piece of plastic. :thumbsup:


----------



## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

gddyap said:


> Here's my cheap chain guide:
> 
> 
> 
> 1x7 on a Breezer Lightning. 32 x 12-32. Spot bash guard. I'll probably get an N-gear jumpstop eventually unless the reflector actually works. I didn't previously have any problems on a few trail rides and then I did a cyclocross race and I had to stop to put my chain back on at least 5 times.


Dang, now I feel stupid. I have been jacking around with a few different designs and then I ran across this K-Edge which is awesome but heck, your's was free.


----------



## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

*First 1x9....*

I recently picked up a well used but still alive Ibis Alibi frame and I'm building it up with parts I had hanging around plus some new pieces.......

I have a 2003 SID Race going on the front along with some Mavic Crossrides, Juicy 7 up front and an LX V-Brake from like 1999 on the back.....I have the Mega EXO BB installed along with the FSA Afterburners we had from my wife's C-Dale Rush before she got some bling for the Rush.....

I'm going to be running a BBG Chain guard on the outside and an N Gear Jump Stop on the inside with an X9 Medium cage rear and an X7 shifter we are pulling from her Rush.....she gets upgraded to X9s in the process.

Hopefully I can pull this together without too much issue.........

I'll post photos when done.....


----------



## Mrhosedragger (Feb 14, 2012)

Wow! So many awesome bikes. I have a quick question though. I have a mid-90's Trek 930 (my first name brand and my favorite to date) that I have converted to a single speed. I have been thinking a lot about a 1X conversion as the foothills around here are a little to much for my old legs to handle. I was originally thinking of a 1x7 to avoid chain line issues. But it looks as though a 1x9 is practical. With the vast knowledge on here I am wondering if I should stick with a 1X7, go 1X8, or 1X9? I have a truvativ crank with a bash guard and xt hubs. Any advise before I start would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Mrhosedragger,
there are lots of options, and we'll have to go through some questions.

I'm not 100% sure if your rear hub supports the wider modern cassette, which model XT is it?

Additionally, what would you like to favor:
-- greater gear range or
-- a stronger wheel and a better chainline?

I'd say that 1x7 _with true 1x7 parts_ can be safely forgotten about these days. It's still possible to implement with 8, 9 or 10 speed parts, however.

With 8-speed parts you're looking at low-end cassettes and, due to deficiency of good 8-speed shifters, to an investment into a J-tek 9-to-8 Shimano conversion pulley, so that you can run a modern 9-speed shifter (I'd suggest Saint 810). There are still good 8-speed chains being made, so 1x8 is quite viable.

With 9-speed parts you get greater range, nicer cassettes (while they still can be gotten) and a choice between SRAM and Shimano shifting. I'd go with SRAM in this scenario.

And then there's the option to run 1x10. This way you get the widest range (up to 11-36!) and nicest, shiniest parts. Again a near-tie between SRAM and Shimano, and my choice here would be Shimano.

Now for the crankset part. Since you're running a bash guard, you have at least the following options:
1. N-gear Jump Stop.
2. BBG inner guard.
3. Widgit -- good if you'd like less than 32T in front.
4. A host of BB mounted (or ISCG, if your frame has it) chain guides, including the full retention type.


----------



## Mrhosedragger (Feb 14, 2012)

Thanks for the advice J Psyco! Lots to chew on. My hubs are M760's with standard dish. So they can take a 9sp and my front chain ring is ss specific. The only reason I was thinking 7 speed was to save some dough as it appears that the price range for parts is a little cheaper and I was hoping to use my chain. But as it turns out my chain is not index compatible. The other part is I was worried about chain line problems when in the low gears. Esp since I would have to run a 7 speed spacer. I actually have only seen a few 1x's running around on everyday bikes and thought that it would be a great idea for a daily commuter and retro hard tail. I think that I will go with a 1X9. Unless I find better deals on 8sp stuff. If I like it I plan to convert my Kona full suspension as well. As some stated above, I cant stand listening to chain rub!


----------



## Flboy (Mar 18, 2008)

I am debating on stepping up to a 33 or a 34 tooth front chainring when I up grade to a 1 x 10 from my current 1 x 9. How do you guys figure out what chain ring you are going to run? What has the expericnce been with the chain rings with odd number of teeth?

BTW, I can't see any reason for going back to a FD.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Mrhosedragger,
if you go the inner guard route in front, be sure to test for chainstay clearance. I forgot to write that down yesterday.

Flboy,
I guess ring size is a choice based on personal interests and local terrain. For instance, I don't care about developing large downhill speeds through cranking on smooth parts. Downhills around here are either very short, or not very interesting. So I either pump the terrain, or just let the bike roll. On the uphill side, I like technical climbs.

So for my geared XC bikes I pick lower gear ranges, but so as to have highest gear ratio around 2.7 (with 26" wheels). 32T in front and 11-32T, 12-34T cassettes do the trick (but I have to be in good seated-spinning shape to climb everything in 32-32 seated).

The next 1xN drivetrain that I'm going to build will be 10-speed, 28T or 29T ring, 11-36T cassette. That's for the heavy FS rig which I want to be able to climb somehow (must earn the descents -- will be taking it to more interesting dirt).


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

LX crank, 31t Homebrewed ring, Straitline 32 bash, e.13 XCX cut down to work with the bash.









Short chain, short cage X.9 10 speed rear, 11-36 Shimano XT 10 speed cassette. Works beautifully. Quiet, no chain loss, simple to set up. For a 5" travel rig, it's a nice useable option. 









Also have a Straitline Silent Guide setup with a Pivot Bikes BB mount ISCG adapter that was Dremeled and filed to fit the BB area. Press fit BB, no tabs on the frame. It works very nicely as well, but I really don't need the full guide on the bike. Nice to have it if wanted, though.


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

*You've Made A Believer Out Of Me*

I had always bypassed this thread because I was going to use a 2x10 set-up on my new Yelli Screamy frame, but last night I decided to take a look see and started on page 1, and by the time it was all over I arrived at page 72. Page after page of incredible bikes kept me reading on and I have now come to believe in the 1x set-up. Not that I didn't believe in it before, it's just the fact that I didn't really understand it I guess. I mean going from a 3x9 on my Niner Jet 9, to a 2x10 for my YS was shock enough, but going to a 1x10 was insane so I thought. But 1x10 it is thanks to all the great info provided by this thread.

So....here is my plan.

I have a brand new Shiamno XT M770 175 silver crankset 42-32-22. After looking at all the bikes here, I'm thinking of taking off all 3 rings and using the 32t for my single ring and pairing it with a Sram 11-36 cassette and a KMC X10SL chain. I really like the BBG Bash-wich that I've seen on many of the bikes, so that's what I'm thinking of doing. My question using this scenario is will I get "rubbing" like some of the other bikes are getting with the bash-wich? The chainstays on this frame are 16.7" so I'm not sure if that will cause a problem. I'll be using a Sram X9 RD and X9 rear shifter.

Second choice...

Truvativ 1.1 Stylo GXP 9 speed 175 black crankset. Not sure if this crankset being 9 speed will be a problem using the Sram 10 speed cassette. In this scenario, I would probably go spiderless, or not, and switch out the 32t ring with a Homebrewed spiderless ring. Then run a chain guide. I might even use a 30t ring in this set-up. Going spiderless isn't a done deal in my mind completely. Would eliminating the spider make the crank weaker? I'm 6'2" 175lbs and ride mostly technical rolling single track consisting of roots and some rocky terrain here in GA. I really like the clean look of the spiderless crank.

My frame won't be ready for purchase until late March, so I have time to consider all possibilities.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

I'm now riding a 1x10 using an 11-36 cassette (and a 30t chainring on LX cranks) bashwich setup and have no issues with the chain rubbing the guards. Still haven't dropped the chain once since I started using the BBG inner guard. One of the best investments I've ever made.


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

marpilli said:


> I'm now riding a 1x10 using an 11-36 cassette (and a 30t chainring on LX cranks) bashwich setup and have no issues with the chain rubbing the guards. Still haven't dropped the chain once since I started using the BBG inner guard. One of the best investments I've ever made.


marpilli...your bike was one of the first bikes that pushed me towards going with this exact set-up. Thanks!!


----------



## MortenRE (Apr 30, 2010)

My 2007 Enduro - just got around to do the BBG guards and 1x9 setup. Looking forward to try it! (I will remove the dork disk as soon as I can get around to do it.. )


----------



## Wilkenstein (Jul 22, 2008)

I seem to be one of the few running with grip shift. I really like it!


----------



## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

Anyone running a Straitline Silent Guide/Shimano SLX FC-M665 combo? M665 have some beefier chainring tabs similar to Saint and Straitline people have separate Silent Guide for Saint cranks. I'm asking because I had some issues with e*13 FCKR. There wasn't enough overlap between the upper guide and the bashguard because of the before mentioned fat tabs, so the chain could find enough space to get jammed.


----------



## stanfordnerd (Dec 15, 2004)

@Wilkenstein I also rock the gripship on my 1x9 (custom-built by yours truely at Stanford Frameworks):










Truvativ Stylo 1.1G Crankset
PG990 11x32 Cassette
PC-991 Chain
X.0 RD Medium
X.0 Twist Shifter

I love this bike, totally converted me to 29ers and made me sell my Cannondale Jekyll. I need to get a *good chainstop*. What would you guys recommend?


----------



## Wilkenstein (Jul 22, 2008)

stanfordnerd said:


> @Wilkenstein I also rock the gripship on my 1x9 (custom-built by yours truely at Stanford Frameworks):
> 
> Truvativ Stylo 1.1G Crankset
> PG990 11x32 Cassette
> ...


Sweeeeeeeeet. I still want something like that to compliment the Rocky.


----------



## fst aslp (Aug 17, 2009)

2012-03-04_09-52-34_668 by FST ASLP, on Flickr

XTR Med Cage RD 9 speed
KMC X10SL Chain
MRP Bash
N-Stop

gotta love the 1x9!


----------



## facelessfools (Aug 30, 2008)

my pride and joy, just under 18lbs


----------



## 2002maniac (Nov 17, 2008)

Here's my setup:



















Custom 20 gram chainguide
XTR M950 cranks
HBC 30t chainring
SRAM PG990 11-34 cassette
KMC X10SL
X.7 short cage derailleur
X.7 gripshift

30t is a bit short for downhill sections, but I need the 30/34 on some of the climbs here in Utah (especially on a 29er). I can still hit 25mph spinning like crazy, and I really don't see the need to go any faster unless I'm coasting.


----------



## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I have 40t up front and I don't think I ever need to go further than 28ish...

I need to get into the trails you're riding!


----------



## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

I'm building a bike for the first time. I want to run 1x9 or 1x10, which ever is cheaper. I'm guessing 1x9. I was planning to get this crankset:
Universal Cycles -- Truvativ AKA 3.3 BB30 Crankset - 9 Speed

my frame is a 29er carbon HT for XC riding and its bb30. I was going to get the e thirteen xcx-st guide. theres a xcx-st cx version, anyone know the difference? I see you guys are using two bbg bashguards. that route would be like 40gr heavier than the xcx-st guide but much cheaper. the bbg sandwich requires a 3 ring crankset right?

what do you guys recommend? is there a different crankset I should go with?

thanks!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Gabe3 said:


> I was going to get the e thirteen xcx-st guide. theres a xcx-st cx version, anyone know the difference?


I'd risk a wild guess. The CX version is likely intended for bigger chainrings and narrower chainlines.


----------



## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

Here is my 09 Rockhopper I built up. Now with a new front 1x9 chainring, phenom expert saddle and reba rl fork.









By aluminumhorse at 2012-03-18









By aluminumhorse at 2012-03-18









By aluminumhorse at 2012-03-18









By aluminumhorse at 2012-03-18


----------



## fbabrove (Nov 9, 2011)

Hey all, this is by far my favorite thread...and it absolutely inspired me to go 1x9 on my Giant Revel HT. I have been riding it for about a month and I completely love it. I decided to keep the middle ring (32T) from my Shimano Deore crank, and use a RaceFace Bash and a Jump-Stop. I went to a medium cage Sram x-7 RD, and I haven't dropped a chain yet. My only problem is that I get some bad, annoying rubbing on the bash in my smallest few gears.

I ordered a Salsa 32T single speed chainring, along with some shallow bolts. I am thinking about running this ring with the Jump-Stop but without a bash. 

My question for all you experts is about chain-line: Since I am sticking with a 32T ring the same size as my stock middle ring, and going without a bash, do I need to do anything with my chain-line, or should it set up just fine? I am a complete noob when it comes to chainline, so any info/advice would be great.


----------



## jten9 (Apr 8, 2010)

If you get rid of the bash, you will need some sort of chain retention on the outside of the ring... I'd suggest also tossing the ngear and using something like an mrp or Paul's chain keeper if you wand to get rid of the bash. 

Your chain line should be fine running in the middle position. 

Sent using Tapatalk


----------



## fbabrove (Nov 9, 2011)

Thanks for the info, jten, much appreciated. I've been looking at the Paul's, the MRP 1.X, and the E13 XCX Chainguides....all about $50 bucks from Jensonusa.


----------



## chantheman84 (Sep 20, 2011)

+1 on the MRP 1x , raced, used , and abused. Not one problem, does its job consistently


----------



## fbabrove (Nov 9, 2011)

Thanks Chan! Do you get any chain rub with the MRP 1x?


----------



## fbabrove (Nov 9, 2011)

An update: My Salsa 32T single speed chainring arrived in the mail, and I installed it, removed my Jump-Stop and bashguard, and went for a good, hard ride. I expected to drop the chain on some of the nastier stuff, but never did. I'll still invest the MRP 1x soon enough though, but the single speed ring makes a huge difference.


----------



## akime1984 (Feb 18, 2012)

I think that I am going to purchase the MRP 1X Guide but before I do I just want to make sure this will work with a Shimano Octalink BB. Also there is not too much information that I can find on SR Suntour cranks but do they typically use a non standard BCD size other than 104.


----------



## fbabrove (Nov 9, 2011)

I'm not an expert, but I had stock Suntour cranks and they don't use the standard 104 size, they use a bolt circle diameter of 106mm. They seem to do this just to complicate things! I upgraded to a cheap Shimano Deore with an external BB...this is simplified things greatly, as an external bb with the standard 104mm bolt pattern is pretty universal, customizable, and easy/cheap to upgrade parts.


----------



## Solo Bellimino (Feb 19, 2011)

fbabrove said:


> I'm not an expert, but I had stock Suntour cranks and they don't use the standard 104 size, they use a bolt circle diameter of 106mm. They seem to do this just to complicate things! I upgraded to a *cheap Shimano Deore with an external BB*...this is simplified things greatly, as an external bb with the standard 104mm bolt pattern is pretty universal, customizable, and easy/cheap to upgrade parts.


Inexpensive. Just saying.


----------



## fbabrove (Nov 9, 2011)

Clarify...just saying what?


----------



## akime1984 (Feb 18, 2012)

I need to get a chain guide and been looking at the MRP 1X Guide, but before I do I just want to make sure this will work with a Shimano Octalink BB. Im new when it comes to this stuff but appears that the bottom bracket holds this on so I just want to make sure it will work. Otherwise I will get one that attaches to the seat post tube.


----------



## the kraken (Jan 13, 2012)

slx cranks 
32t blackspire
11-28 saint slx cassette
sram x9 
sram cross step chain
mrp lopes sl guide


----------



## the kraken (Jan 13, 2012)

eurospek said:


> Transition TransAM? ^^


stout bikes custom frame


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Transition TransAM? ^^


----------



## Solo Bellimino (Feb 19, 2011)

the kraken said:


> slx cranks
> 32t blackspire
> 11-28 saint slx cassette
> sram x9
> ...


So clean


----------



## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

Hey guys. I'm building up a stumpjumper fsr (08) with a 1x9. I have a blackspire stinger roller and will be installing an mrp 1.x soon. Is it worth leaving the stinger on the bike or does it really not need it for xc/trail riding? Thanks!


----------



## tehschkott (Apr 2, 2009)

subscribed


----------



## grisha (Oct 28, 2007)

Made my own chain keeper and 3d-printed it through shapeways.com.
32t chainring, 11-34 XT cassette.


----------



## BikeThreads (Oct 5, 2011)

Nice work Grisha.

What material did you get it made out of?


----------



## grisha (Oct 28, 2007)

BikeThreads said:


> What material did you get it made out of?


Some kind of nylon, shapeways.com call it White, Strong & Flexible. Looks like it's durable enough for such use. But I've just started riding with it, so can't say how it will show itself over time.


----------



## DansDaMan561 (Mar 16, 2011)

Paint it black to match your bike. IMO


----------



## LONRGR (Jan 24, 2012)

any idea if I can run a bashwich on a Large framed GT Karakoram? wanting to go straight to a 1x.

thanks~


L.R.


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

LONRGR said:


> any idea if I can run a bashwich on a Large framed GT Karakoram? wanting to go straight to a 1x.
> 
> thanks~
> 
> L.R.


I think the only way to know for sure is to try it. Worst case is you have to grind a little off the inner bash. Someone here did that a few pages back. I have like 1/8th in clearance on my cannondale. But it's enough!


----------



## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

Taken with wife's iphone while I struggled to unscrew chainring bolts from my inner BBG bashguard. Turns out my 20 year old multi tool has just barely enough clearance on the 5mm allen to clear my BB. I needed to almost completely remove the inner bashguard to free the chain which had jammed waaaay down in there.
Turns out that the bash which leaves too big a gap between the middle chainring and the inner bash guard. There's plenty of clearance on the GT Force frame, and I love the elegante simplicity of the bash which, but not sure it there's a long term solution to this.
For now, the bashguard is so bent out that I may just finish bending it all the way around and flip flop it. Perhaps this will close the gap and hold up long term......

Any ideas? There's no way I'm reading through dozens and dozens of pages of this stuff:skep:


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

^ my god that is a big gap. At first glance I thought you had 2 chainrings between the bashwich. I've never had that problem, so couldn't help there either. I've seen where my chain could possilby slip between the inner bash and the chainring, under the most perfect circumstances. When you get it out try to shorten your chain some so there's not so much slack. Also have you put on a SS chainring? It's just a little extra precaution. 

If shorter chain and SS chainring don't solve your problem maybe add in a chain retention device of some sort. I see you have FS I'm on HT so different animal all together in regards to drive train issues.


----------



## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

The gap got bigger when the chain was jammed down in there. Originally the gap was just big enough to be about exactly the width of the chain and after a few rides all was good so I figured I was scot free.
After rescuing the chain on that ride, it was a constant problem as the new improved gap was enormous.
Currently in the garage bending away like I'm truing a disc rotor. Fingers crossed.


----------



## xpatenaude (Apr 19, 2009)

My yeti FRO 1x9...


----------



## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

jm2e said:


> The gap got bigger when the chain was jammed down in there. Originally the gap was just big enough to be about exactly the width of the chain and after a few rides all was good so I figured I was scot free.
> After rescuing the chain on that ride, it was a constant problem as the new improved gap was enormous.
> Currently in the garage bending away like I'm truing a disc rotor. Fingers crossed.


Have you checked out the ngear jump stop? I love mine. I have an slx crank with the shimano bashguard. The jump stop is.adjustable so I got it as close to the chain without rubbing and tightened it. Works great!


----------



## KinGisPro (Mar 26, 2012)

I can't wait to switch my bike to a 1x9


----------



## Hardguy (Nov 4, 2006)

xpatenaude said:


> My yeti FRO 1x9...


I like everything except for the cockpit. In my honest opinion, running riser bars and bar-ends combo is like wear socks with sandals...
If you have to run bar-ends, some flat bars and a higher rise stem would look much better.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

the kraken,
your rig emanates fun and looks like "grab me right now and ride me hard"! :thumbsup:



grisha,
your chainguard looks well thought out. What's your primary occupation?

Please post back your experiences with that device and material (I wonder whether it's abrasion resistant enough?).


----------



## 251 (May 13, 2008)

I've been riding my 26" hardtail as a 1x9 for about a year. It started out as an XT 32t ring, XT 11-32 cassette, and a Paul's Chain Keeper. It's currently an HBC 32t ring, XT 11-34 cassette, and the same Paul's Chain Keeper.

I was hesitant to put an 11-34t cassette on the 1x9 because I really didn't use the 32t cog all that much, and I was considering as 11-28. I also ride a singlespeed 32x20 29er, and that gear goes up just about anything. Anyway, I decided to give the 11-34 a try a while back, and initially I didn't like it. I rode for a month before I used the 34t cog, and even then I shouldn't have.

However, I raced the 1x9 in a four-hour enduro last weekend, and found a great use for the 34t cog. Climbing in traffic with with 32x34 actually worked out really well as a lot of the riders had granny gears and were really crawling up the climbs.

So, no big revelations, just wanted to share.


----------



## davide2tempi (Feb 9, 2011)

uzurpator said:


> My spesh. 1x9 with 32 front and 11-38 cassette.
> 
> The last cog is a custom job I did for this project, then a 17-34 spider from XT cassette, then 14 and 11, resulting in
> 
> 11-14-17-20-23-26-30-34-38


YEAH...this is what I call CUSTOM WORK........well done man, alu raw enduro frame, 38 T in the back......yeah, nice idea.
I love that.
I am planning to modify my SLX crank and I am gonna install a 28T x 11-36 (recon ti )....
that is gonna rule !......


----------



## grisha (Oct 28, 2007)

J. Random Psycho said:


> grisha,
> your chainguard looks well thought out. What's your primary occupation?
> 
> Please post back your experiences with that device and material (I wonder whether it's abrasion resistant enough?).


Hi, I'm programmer with some 3d modeling background. So designing this chainguard for 3d printing wasn't too complex for me.
It's still too muddy on the trails here and almost all my experience with it is limited too some urban stairs riding and jumping.


----------



## grantpro (Mar 11, 2009)

So here is the deal, I crashed my 2004 kona kikapu last year and didn't notice the crack in the seat stay till last month after riding to the bars. Contacting kona warranty department through my LBS they said that just the seat stay would run me $190.......NOPE. Not having the time to save for a sweet full sus frame I hunted for a cheap hardtail to get me through the summer. Here she is, the Sunn Seasons S1 AM frame

Specs.
Sunn Seasons S1 AM frame (size L)
Rock Shox Tora 302 (120mm)
Sun rims S.O.S. with DT Swiss Onyx hubs 
Tioga Psycho Genius 2.30 tires
FSA Orbit headset
Race Face Evolve dh cranks with a 36 tooth ring (running 1X9)
E.13 xcx chainguide
Shimano LX rear derailleur
Magura MT 8 brakes: 160 rear and 180 front rotor 
Stem, handle bars, saddle and seat post are all stock from the kona frame.

Got out on a small ride today after finishing up the transfer of parts and here are my first impressions. The frame is spot on! Stiff ride with no flexing. this thing climbs like a beast. Coming back to a hardtail reminds me how much fun they are.....and how rough they are. Descending is super fun and fast. Despite the roughness, I seem to be attacking down hills with more confidence and aggression. Not sure if this frame is just a better fit for me or what, but it's a blast. Future rides will bring more reviews of this French frame.

Also here is the link to the Sunn website: Sunn | Vélos


----------



## Jnthomps08 (Mar 22, 2010)

Im having a chainline issue with my 1x9 setup. When in the 32t in the rear (largest), the angle with the chainring is so severe that it causes a vibration through the bike. The chainring is mounted on the inside of the crank. 

Any suggestions?


----------



## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

Here is my newly built Specialized Stumpjumer FSR. This thing rides like a dream! It has an e.13 32 tooth chainring and an mrp e-mount chain guide. Works perfectly, I haven't ever had the chain fall off the bottom either like I did with my rockhopper.









By aluminumhorse at 2012-04-07









By aluminumhorse at 2012-04-07









By aluminumhorse at 2012-04-07









By aluminumhorse at 2012-04-07


----------



## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

To jnthonps08

Chainring bolt washers to space the chainring inwards a few mm to reduce the severe cross chaining

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

funnyjr said:


> To jnthonps08
> 
> Chainring bolt washers to space the chainring inwards a few mm to reduce the severe cross chaining
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


I tried this and got a horrible popping noise when I pedaled. Sounded like the chain was breaking each time I hit the power stroke. Though I used regular washers. Still it was enough to make me not try anything else.


----------



## TaupoRider (Jan 6, 2012)

Does anyone know if you can get a cassette that has 11(or 12) through to 36 but with the next gear being 34t?

Ie X,X,X,X,X,X,X,X,34,36


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

TaupoRider,
try doing research on the following: take an 11-34 10-speed cassette, remove 11T and 13T cogs from it, add a 12T cog and a 12T lockring on the right side, and a separate aluminum 36T cog on the left side, those are being made by small brands (although I don't remember if anyone does a 10-speed spaced 36T cog).

But there's going to be a big jump from 12T to 15T.


----------



## TaupoRider (Jan 6, 2012)

Cheers, I didn't know you could do that. I've had a look around and it looks like the XX is the only way to go?


----------



## nav122 (Apr 21, 2012)

Great lookin bikes on here


----------



## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

Crappy pics from my iPhone.























































specs of my 2010 EX8.

1x9 
XCX Chain Guide 
Bionicon C Guide V2
SRAM X9 Small RD
SRAM X9 Shifter
Shimano XT 11-34 Cassette 
SRAM PC-991 Chain 
32T Salsa Chainring 
Black Ano Bolts
Stan's Arch
Red Hadley Hubs 
DT 14/15 Spokes, Black Nips 
Continental Trail Kings 2.2 Black Chili (Still running tubes)
Thomson Elite Seatpost
Black Oury Lock-on Grips
Cateye Bottle Cage
Weighed in yesterday at 27lbs even.


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

Ive set up my Canfield Yelli Screamy 1x9. Its 118mm BB with the chainring on the middle position. This just clears the frame with a 32t up front. But the chain cross in the 34 rear is pretty severe - though no apparent problems yet.I think I might be able to space the chainring in 1mm or so.








Its a BB-mounted generic chain device. Chain has been shortened a bit since the pic but no issues so far with dropping the chain


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

^ dirty pic!


----------



## natzx7 (May 30, 2007)

Just got in my BBG 64 BCD inner bash to replace the 22 granny. Goodbye front derailleur.


----------



## FL_rider (Apr 10, 2011)

My 2010 Rockhopper Comp

Waiting on my inner bbg to arrive...

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

*Finished the 1x9 Ibis*

Picked up a late 90's Ibis Alibi frame from a nice guy on the board a few months ago; originally I was going to sandblast it and powder coat it but I decided to leave it as is, love marks and all.

Built it up with some extra parts and some obligatory new pieces. I left the headtube on the SID long as you never know what I'll put it on some day in the future. Stripped the X-7 shifter off my wifes bike and upgraded her to X9s.....isn't that the way it goes....she gets the bling so I can have the extra pieces. Cranks, wife's old ones from when she upgraded to Deus XCs.....X9 rear, old SRAM from her bike (when she upgraded to an XT), N-Stop, BBG outer, old Juicy 7 on the front (in bad need of a bleed), old LX V-Brake on the back.

I believe it weighs in around 23-24lbs.....light enough for me for now.

I got the cockpit close to how my C-Dale Rush is set up, so at least I can ride it without too much change.....

Can't wait for a new WTB saddle to come in this week, that Fizik is like a bad trip to prison.....


----------



## c3024446 (Apr 16, 2010)

Will see how this goes without a chain guide when i can ride again (broken collarbone atm) 
1x10, XTR Shadow Plus with 32T Salsa RIng.


----------



## FlowinFlo (Jan 29, 2012)

Looks really cool!

1. Get well soon! 
2. Mount a chain guide or start from #1!


----------



## Goatkeeper (Jul 14, 2011)

River19 said:


> Picked up a late 90's Ibis Alibi frame from a nice guy on the board a few months ago; originally I was going to sandblast it and powder coat it but I decided to leave it as is, love marks and all.
> 
> Built it up with some extra parts and some obligatory new pieces. I left the headtube on the SID long as you never know what I'll put it on some day in the future. Stripped the X-7 shifter off my wifes bike and upgraded her to X9s.....isn't that the way it goes....she gets the bling so I can have the extra pieces. Cranks, wife's old ones from when she upgraded to Deus XCs.....X9 rear, old SRAM from her bike (when she upgraded to an XT), N-Stop, BBG outer, old Juicy 7 on the front (in bad need of a bleed), old LX V-Brake on the back.
> 
> ...


River19, is that BBG off by 90 degrees? I just ordered one for my rig too, and I thought the deep cut was meant to go behind the crank arm. If I'm wrong, or if there's a reason to mount it like this, I'd sure like to know..


----------



## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Goatkeeper said:


> River19, is that BBG off by 90 degrees? I just ordered one for my rig too, and I thought the deep cut was meant to go behind the crank arm. If I'm wrong, or if there's a reason to mount it like this, I'd sure like to know..


The reason? Probably because I effed it up if it was supposed to go another way.....not like it comes with directions 

I just put it's first miles on and the thing was sweet......of course my lower back remembers why I have full suspension as a primary ride....the Ibis is a quick fun frame with pretty short wheelbase so it feels"lively"........

I couldn't help myself and just bought a new old stock Ibis Ripley softtail as well.....can't afford to build that one for a while though.....

Maybe I'll flip the BBG........thanks for the heads up.


----------



## c3024446 (Apr 16, 2010)

FlowinFlo said:


> Looks really cool!
> 
> 1. Get well soon!
> 2. Mount a chain guide or start from #1!


Nope! Going to run no chain guide. Lots of people out there are after the answer to whether the Salsa and a Clutch Mech can run no chain guide, i'm doing it!


----------



## Goatkeeper (Jul 14, 2011)

River19 said:


> The reason? Probably because I effed it up if it was supposed to go another way.....not like it comes with directions
> 
> I just put it's first miles on and the thing was sweet......of course my lower back remembers why I have full suspension as a primary ride....the Ibis is a quick fun frame with pretty short wheelbase so it feels"lively"........
> 
> ...


Ha!

Ya, come to think of it, that skinny bit isn't going to hold up too well if you bash it - best to get that under the crank. Bike looks super fun to throw around, nice find!


----------



## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Goatkeeper said:


> Ha!
> 
> Ya, come to think of it, that skinny bit isn't going to hold up too well if you bash it - best to get that under the crank. Bike looks super fun to throw around, nice find!


I'll add that to this list of things to adjust.....although it was a fun first ride. Put the new seat on just be fore the ride thank God otherwise my bits would be shredded from that plank on there in the pic.

I like the 1x9 drivetrain as it gets closer to"shut up and ride" which I like. The sound of V-brakes.......ah memories.....not always good memories, but memories nontheless.

I couldn't help myself and just purchased an unridden 2001 Ibis Ripley softtail for the next project......that will also probably go 1x9 or possibly 2x10, but I can't afford another toy at this point, that build will wait.


----------



## chantheman84 (Sep 20, 2011)

*My Race bike for the 2012 season!*

24.8 lbs 1x9 Specialized XC FSR for this years race season, so far so good no chain drops and loving this setup
MRP 1x, 36t E thirteen chainring, X9 RD, Sram XO Cassette 11-34 :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Nice looking Specialized......decent weight for a bike with that travel, especially rocking strong cranks like the Deores.......nice job. Enjoy your season on that rig.


----------



## chantheman84 (Sep 20, 2011)

Thank people's , I appreciate the compliments , I been through some bikes last year and just couldnt find one that fit right, so I built the FSR from the frame up , laced the hoops myself , and piece by piece it went together just the way I wanted, Now I'm loving it , five races so far and finishing in the top 20% of the pack. Now I gotta work on myself lol. 
I love 1x9 and will never need to go back to front derailleurs again , super simple!


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

1x9 on both bikes finally.

*Kona Honzo:* SLX cranks, e.13 32T chainring, SLX GS rear derailleur, Shimano HG81 12-36 cassette, MRP Lopes SL chainguide


















*Kona Stinky:* Truvativ Hussefelt cranks, Salsa 32T chainring, SLX GS rear derailleur, Shimano SLX 11-34 cassette, BBG Bashwich, Blackspire Stinger


----------



## chantheman84 (Sep 20, 2011)

Those are some sexy Konas my friend , I like that Honzo alot!


----------



## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Converted my fatty to 1x9 tonight....can't wait to get it out for a ride.

BBG bashwich and stock 32T ring. 11-34 out back.


----------



## Randomness (May 3, 2012)

The drive train setup on my Banshee Rune:

hope pro II hubs
RaceFace Atlas FR cranks
RaceFace 32T DH sprocket
Straitline Guide & Platform pedals
Sram X.0 rear mech and shifter
Sram PG 990 11-34 cassette
Sram PG 991 chain

bam!


----------



## the kraken (Jan 13, 2012)

Randomness said:


> The drive train setup on my Banshee Rune:
> 
> hope pro II hubs
> RaceFace Atlas FR cranks
> ...


sick


----------



## illegalsmile (Apr 11, 2008)

Hi,

I have been looking through this thread and have yet to come to any conclusions as to what I should do. I have a 1x9 setup with bashguard and one of those n-gear jump stops . Bashguard is necessary and has to remain.

Problem is I loose my chain fairly regularly with the jump stop and it's setup as best as can be. I need to eliminate this, what should I buy?


----------



## chantheman84 (Sep 20, 2011)

The best setup is a chain a chain guide. MRP1x, e thirteen xcx , something like that. I race XC and never had a drop during a race , just when I'm fooling round .


----------



## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

I think for most XC type applications the N Stop is more than adequate but if your dropping the chain during more "robust" applications then I second the MRP or ethirteen systems.....from what I have seen they do the job......although they are obviously a weight gain. Then again a light bike with no chain is useless.....


----------



## SSNut (Jun 6, 2011)

Here is my new 1x9 set up

*Full View:*


*Close up*


----------



## ranier (Sep 9, 2003)

Randomness said:


> The drive train setup on my Banshee Rune:
> 
> hope pro II hubs
> RaceFace Atlas FR cranks
> ...


dude! Screw the bike, let's see more of your door!

jk - bike's cool! but I'm serious about the door. More pics!


----------



## JSumner13 (Apr 26, 2006)

SSNUT: Great looking bike! You may just want to angle your MRP 1X a little bit forward. Looks like it's leaning back a bit too much.


----------



## Totalinsanity (Apr 10, 2012)

so dope


----------



## Randomness (May 3, 2012)

ranier said:


> dude! Screw the bike, let's see more of your door!
> 
> jk - bike's cool! but I'm serious about the door. More pics!


haha yeah the door is sick eh?! This pic is out front of North Shore Bike Shop in North Vancouver. i wish it were my door!


----------



## jrs67 (Dec 6, 2010)

*anthem x 1 x 9*

here is my latest conversion to 1 x9 ....had it on the trails today and didn't miss the granny gears at all...just forced me to to use my jackhammers more love the rapid-rise shimano drailleir as well.....never dropped a chain either..the cro-mag chainring has longer teeth which seems to negate the need for a chain guide..


----------



## Kofoed (Nov 16, 2011)

Saint mech
SLX crank
Renthal SR4
MRP Lopes


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

A few updated photos of my 1x10. I'm still very happy with the BBG bashwich. I needed something a bit more than the N-Stop and less than an e*thirteen. The double BBG guards fit the bill perfectly...


----------



## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

Would you have optimum chain line if your ran a 2X10 crank, 1X10? Where does your front ring go?


----------



## c3024446 (Apr 16, 2010)

The front ring goes where the big ring goes.

An XT M785 2 x 10 crank has the rings at 42.3mm and 50.3mm from frame centreline (measured to inside edge of ring). The XT M770 3 x 9 has the middle ring 48.3mm from the centerline.

Seems to be different sources around the net saying that 45, 47.5 or 50mm is the ideal chainline measurement. The best idea would be to measure your frame and cassette yourself to see where your ideal chainline would be. 

Which crank you need will depend on how the rear wheel sits in the frame, my chinese 29er has the rear wheel offset slightly towards the non-drive side, so using the middle of a 3x crank is what i have done.


----------



## sk1er18 (Jul 11, 2009)

(Wifes build)

Raceface Atlas
BBG Inner
Truvativ Bash
Blackspire chainring


----------



## natzx7 (May 30, 2007)

Chain jumped off my bashwich today. I came down a fast,short decent, followed by a sharp rooty climb. I got a lot of speed up on the drop so I wouldn't have to pump the climb. The little climb had my bike really bucking, and I was pedaling to keep speed, My chain jumped to the inside, Between the chainring and the BBG inner bash. I guess maybe I need a Bionicon? Thoughts, 1x9 guys?


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

natzx7 said:


> Chain jumped off my bashwich today. I came down a fast,short decent, followed by a sharp rooty climb. I got a lot of speed up on the drop so I wouldn't have to pump the climb. The little climb had my bike really bucking, and I was pedaling to keep speed, My chain jumped to the inside, Between the chainring and the BBG inner bash. I guess maybe I need a Bionicon? Thoughts, 1x9 guys?


Wow, that stinks. I'd always drop my chain on the inside during those rooty climbs when I was using the Jump Stop. After I went to the BBG it's been good to go. Sorry to hear about the problem.

Just throwing out a couple of guesses here... When you went 1x9 did you shorten your chain appropriately? Or, could the inner BBG be bent somehow?


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

marpilli said:


> When you went 1x9 did you shorten your chain appropriately?


This was gonna be my suggestion. As it's the most likely culprit.


----------



## natzx7 (May 30, 2007)

I feel that my chain lenght is correct, I'm running a medium cage xtr deraillier, it was a pretty severe situation. I'm not faulting the system, but I think maybe I could benefit from a tensioner. Thanks for the replies.:thumbsup:


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Just to be sure, you may want to check here:
Bicycle Chain Length:How to Get The Right Chain Length For Your Gear Setup

Use Mehod #2 to calculate the chain length. Don't feed the chain through your rear der when measuring. Other than that I'm out of ideas. Let us know if you're able to figure it out.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

natzx7 said:


> Chain jumped off my bashwich today. I came down a fast,short decent, followed by a sharp rooty climb. I got a lot of speed up on the drop so I wouldn't have to pump the climb. The little climb had my bike really bucking, and I was pedaling to keep speed, My chain jumped to the inside, Between the chainring and the BBG inner bash. I guess maybe I need a Bionicon? Thoughts, 1x9 guys?


I'll repeat my previous thought on what causes a lot of these chain drops/jumps: backpedaling. Especially when entering rough sections like that. Your chain will flop around all over the place below the chainstay and shortening it properly does help, but its VERY difficult to get that chain off the chainring if your crank isn't going backwards. Especially with a system like a bashwich. It may seem like it came off the chainring from the top, but unless your chainline is way off, that's very difficult to make happen.

I paid attention to how I was entering corners and rough sections and made myself pedal forwards instead of backwards whenever possible. It quickly became automatic and I don't even think about it anymore. I can't remember the last time I dropped a chain, and I'm still just using an e13 GuideRing and a BB-mount MRP X1. No bashwich. No roller or extra tensioner. There are guys here that say they have zero chain drop with no chainkeeper at all, and I believe them. With the right technique, it is possible.

The good news is that with your bashwich, it takes an extreme situation as you described to make it fail. Small technique adjustments will assure it won't happen again.


----------



## natzx7 (May 30, 2007)

Thanks for all the advice. I had the chain come off again, on a different trail this time, but similar situation. Steep climb, rough terrain, and in the 2nd biggest ring in the back. Used that chain calculator. I got rid of a link. I think this should fix it but I'll find out next weekend.


----------



## Reporter (Mar 12, 2007)

*MRP Bling 30t*

Here is my new 1x10 set up, Bling 30t and XT 11-36.


----------



## Dan GSR (Apr 29, 2010)

Reporter said:


> Here is my new 1x10 set up, Bling 30t and XT 11-36.


any problems with chain jumping off?
I'm going to have a similar setup
niner mcr, mrp bling ring, sram x9 rear der


----------



## Reporter (Mar 12, 2007)

Dan GSR said:


> any problems with chain jumping off?
> I'm going to have a similar setup
> niner mcr, mrp bling ring, sram x9 rear der


Just one ride (40 km). No issues.
Chain was shortened 3 links (previous drivetrain was 2x10 with 36t and 22t at front).


----------



## Dan GSR (Apr 29, 2010)

good to know
i got a ngear jump stop, just in case. at least if it jumps to the inside it won't scratch the frame


----------



## JSumner13 (Apr 26, 2006)

My MCR....Been on this frame for over 3 years now


----------



## Ken123 (May 31, 2012)

*Specialized Camber*

Hi

I have just had my Specialized Camber converted to 1x9 with a Superstar Plasma Chain device.

Ken


----------



## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

Reporter said:


> Here is my new 1x10 set up, Bling 30t and XT 11-36.


I've got nearly the same thing now.

It was 1x9 with HBC 30t chainring, X0 twist shifter, X0 derailleur, and SRAM PG-990 cassette. (Also sometimes singlespeed.)

Now 1x10 with Bling 30t chainring and XT shifter, derailleur, and cassette.


----------



## Reporter (Mar 12, 2007)

jabrabu said:


> I've got nearly the same thing now.
> 
> It was 1x9 with HBC 30t chainring, X0 twist shifter, X0 derailleur, and SRAM PG-990 cassette. (Also sometimes singlespeed.)
> 
> Now 1x10 with Bling 30t chainring and XT shifter, derailleur, and cassette.


...and I am waiting (since March) for a HBC 29t...the Bling just arrived earlier...


----------



## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

Going from HBC 30t ring to MRP Bling 30t ring the improved chainline was noticeable for me. With the HBC I used to get some rub on my Paul chainguide and general drivetrain/chain noise in the bigger rear cogs. It's noticeably smoother and quieter with the Bling Ring. It might not be as much an issue with a different chainguide, but should still be better in the bigger cogs (and I use the big cogs a lot more often than the small ones).

If/when I go back to singlespeed I will probably go back to the HBC ring since it is actually round and I can set up a perfect chainline with hub spacers.


----------



## VanillaEps (Aug 24, 2010)

I converted my 2011 SJ from 3x10 to 2x10. I currently run a 39/26 up front and a 12-36 in the rear. I can honestly say that I have NEVER used my granny rings on any of my rides so I am thinking about converting to 1x10. 

Is it as simple as removing the smaller ring, installing a chain guide, and removing the FD, front shifters, and cables? Should I consider a different sized ring up front?

Has anyone regretted making the change?


----------



## xpatenaude (Apr 19, 2009)

No regrets here. You do however have a not-so-common chainring size up front. Generally 26 is too small, and 39 is too big for a 1x9. I run a 38, but i like to hammer, rather than spin. I am thinking to get a smaller ring though. On a trail i am typically using only 4 largest rings on my 11-34 cassette. 34-30-28-24 I believe. It only takes a half hour to make the change, so give it a whirl, or just try to stay in one ring on your next ride, and see how it goes.


----------



## Reporter (Mar 12, 2007)

*My HBC 29t is here!*

Just one week after the Bling I received the 29t HBC!

Chain line is +2 mm outboard compared to the Bling (54 vs. 52).


----------



## VanillaEps (Aug 24, 2010)

xpatenaude said:


> No regrets here. You do however have a not-so-common chainring size up front. Generally 26 is too small, and 39 is too big for a 1x9. I run a 38, but i like to hammer, rather than spin. I am thinking to get a smaller ring though. On a trail i am typically using only 4 largest rings on my 11-34 cassette. 34-30-28-24 I believe. It only takes a half hour to make the change, so give it a whirl, or just try to stay in one ring on your next ride, and see how it goes.


I forgot to mention that I would replace both rings with a 34T. I spoke to my LBS and they mentioned that I would need a new spider to make the change. And, incidentally, the spider I need is out of stock until August.


----------



## xpatenaude (Apr 19, 2009)

That does not sound right to me. WHy do you need a new spider/crank?


----------



## VanillaEps (Aug 24, 2010)

xpatenaude said:


> That does not sound right to me. WHy do you need a new spider/crank?


Apparently the spider that came with the SRAM X9 2x10 kit can't handle a 34T chainring.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

VanillaEps said:


> Apparently the spider that came with the SRAM X9 2x10 kit can't handle a 34T chainring.


HBC can make you one for it. Or take the spyder off and just run a ring.


----------



## ttthai (Oct 3, 2011)

Here's my 1x9 GT avalanche.

- Deore Crank with 32t e13 chainring
- Inner and outer BBG bashwich with blackspire stinger
- Saint derailleur
- XT 11 - 32t cassette (I want to change this to 11 - 28t)


----------



## Solo Bellimino (Feb 19, 2011)

ttthai said:


> Here's my 1x9 GT avalanche.
> 
> - Deore Crank with 32t e13 chainring
> - Inner and outer BBG bashwich with blackspire stinger
> ...


Boss


----------



## Deer_Dodger (Jun 15, 2011)

My 2008 Commencal Supreme Mini DH with a Blackspire Stinger.

Trying to find a device that also has a guide at the top, but the Commie's low main pivot sticks out too far and fowls everything I've tried so far.

The Gamut P series apparently fits, but I don't want a full bash guard covering my chainring!

e*13 and MRP will fit if I move the chain line out and grind the granny ring lugs off apparently. I don't mind grinding my cranks, but I don't really want to ruin my chain line.


----------



## prancisfena (Jan 30, 2012)

grisha said:


> Made my own chain keeper and 3d-printed it through shapeways.com.
> 32t chainring, 11-34 XT cassette.


NICE! Good work (saw your post on the Force & Sanction ref thread). You should start marketing that to GT Force & Sanction owners.


----------



## Deer_Dodger (Jun 15, 2011)

Managed to fit an MRP G2 Mini this weekend, bit of filing needed, but it works perfectly and I've managed to keep the middle chainring position and a good chain line.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Game Changer.
Thanks SRAM.

SRAM XX 1 - CHAPTER 1: DEVELOPMENT - YouTube


----------



## prancisfena (Jan 30, 2012)

Here's my incomplete 1 x 10 setup. Still waiting for the BBG inner bash for my bashwich. AND need to install a shimano bash a buddy gave me. At least the tensioner is on there.


----------



## 2002maniac (Nov 17, 2008)

I'm realling liking the bling ring setups. I think it's time to go bigger on my front chainring. I didn't use my 34t rear cog at all in saturday's race.


----------



## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

Im new to 1x9. using a shimano slx 9 speed crankset with the stock 32t ring and mrp 1x guide, I seem to drop my chain about once every 3 rides. when it happens its usually in a corner. I'm wondering if maybe I need to put a chain ring for a ss? spinning the crank a couple revolutions usually gets the chain back on.


----------



## c3024446 (Apr 16, 2010)

^That would definitely help. Get one in a nice color as well :thumbsup:


----------



## erol/frost (Jan 3, 2004)

Hi all. Could anyone shed any light on what chainguide might work with this setup? Cut `n polished M960 cranks with Tomi 32 chainring. I`ve looked at the MRP 1.X and the Paul guide but am afraid that these will interfere with the cranks.


----------



## erol/frost (Jan 3, 2004)

Paging all c-guide masters out there...


----------



## thecrazyfinn (Apr 7, 2007)

Here's my Parts Bin guild

2006 Norco Storm L

Original parts:
Marzocchi MZIII Fork 
Truvativ ISOFlow Crank, 32t ring & BB
Hayes MX-3 Brakes
Semi-integrated Headset
Deore Shifter
Deore SGS Derailleur

Non-original Parts
Syncros Riser Bar (original Syncros, not the resurrected Pacific brand)
RnH 120mm Stem
Avid FR-5 Levers
ODI Yeti Lock-On Grips
RaceFace Evolve DH Seatpost
WTB SpeedV Saddle
Blackguard bash ring
Envy inner bash ring
MEC Platforms
SRAM PC-990 11-32 Cassette
SRAM PC-991 Chain
Mavic Crossland rear wheel
Specialized Stout Disc front hub laced to XC317 rim
MEC no-name special 160mm discs.


DSC05934 by Mawz, on Flickr


----------



## TugboatComplex (Jul 17, 2012)

ill have my 1x10 up in a min once i hit ten post lol


----------



## TugboatComplex (Jul 17, 2012)

TugboatComplex said:


> ill have my 1x10 up in a min once i hit ten post lol


heres my fury, just got new arch ex's and 1x10 conv


----------



## TaupoRider (Jan 6, 2012)

Here she is:


----------



## Antikid (May 6, 2009)

i am trying to convert my '12 trek fuel ex8 to 1x10 with a bbg bashwich. the inner bash
is not clearing the bb (shell?) enough, it barely touches it, so i will have to make the center
hole larger. chainstay clearance is not an issue, which is nice.

my question is how much clearance do i need? would 2-3mm be ok? the only thing that
sort of worries me is if anything gets in there like a rock or something. 

the other thing is where the granny mounts to the crank, the mounting posts(?) will have to be shaved
down about 2mm, which is sort of common, correct?

thanks for any help.


----------



## diesel5d (May 29, 2011)

Awesome stuff frank


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

erol/frost,
looks like you'll have to run your cage a little higher to avoid spider interference. And it may be necessary to cut into the cage a little.

Or, look at that very compact Helium Components guide:


----------



## erol/frost (Jan 3, 2004)

JRP: Hm, I'll look into the Helium guide. The Paul guide is another one which I try to asses if it might work


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

erol/frost said:


> JRP: Hm, I'll look into the Helium guide. The Paul guide is another one which I try to asses if it might work


The Paul will only work if you use the add on bit that lets you mount it higher up the seat tube - the regular version will interfere with the linkage bits.

The MRP 1.x should work, but same deal - you may need the high mount version.

I'm running an e.13 XCX guide, and it worksfine, but same deal - get the high mount or it'll interfere with your linkage. I also cut the hell out of it to make it work with a bash ring setup though.

Any of them may require a bit of filing to the guide bits to make sure things clear your particular crank and ring combo, or may not. I'd rather file/cut the guide bits down a bit to have them fit closer to the chain rather than have them up higher and have the chain possibly be less secure.

Not my current setup, but similar - you get the idea.



















Have done similarly with the Paul guide on my hardtail, no linkage there to get in the way of course.


----------



## Sickmak90 (May 27, 2012)

Tag...just ordered my red drilled outside bash guard and my inside red bash guard for my 1x9 conversion. I also ordered a black outside bash guard for my old Ironhorse I am doing a 1x9 on also.


----------



## VanillaEps (Aug 24, 2010)

1x10
MRP Bling Ring 32T
e.thirteen XCX chain guide

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## starstevenson (Feb 20, 2007)

*Who has gone spiderless on a 2011 Specialized EVO? (expert 29er)*

Want to run a 30T spiderless MRP bling ring or similar on my SRAM 2200 cranks. 
Questions:
1) Can I run it with the stock / minimal Specialized chain guide / guard?
2) How is the chain line?
3) Is the set-up flexible because of the length of the "spider"?

I have attached a picture of what I have and where I want to go, mainly concerned about dropping my chain, but want to go with a minimal and clean look, like I have.
Thank-you for your help.
Star Stevenson


----------



## starstevenson (Feb 20, 2007)

https://www.google.com/imgres?q=bli...25&tbnw=160&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:16,s:15,i:59


----------



## starstevenson (Feb 20, 2007)

Google Image Result for https://bikes-fs.com/wp-content/themes/shopperpress/thumbs/29rs-mountain-bikes-10413322907427972151.jpg


----------



## starstevenson (Feb 20, 2007)

opps, links are up there!


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

What would be a better short cage derailleur, a Shimano Saint M810 SS or a Shimano XTR M972 modded with the Saint SS cages like here?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

eurospek,
well... great mod! But I'd go with a 810 proper. Reason: RDs are vulnerable, so why not make them beefier? Most of the time we want to ensure that derailer hanger snaps before derailer does, and sometimes they make tough hangers these days.

Now that Shimano Zee is out, my preferences are with it (RD only). It's beefy, inexpensive and packed with technology.


----------



## Tony2x (Dec 8, 2009)

Here's my 2009 GF Piranha 1x9 conversion with e13 32t Guide Ring and N-gear Jump Stop. Test rode for the first time today. No problems with chain drop. So far so good!


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

eurospek said:


> What would be a better short cage derailleur, a Shimano Saint M810 SS or a Shimano XTR M972 modded with the Saint SS cages like here?


And for those interested in modding, I have the Saint cages for sale btw, new in packaging, as I won a M810 SS on eBay last night for a great price.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

So there were questions posed about the Shimano Saint M810 Saint SS derailleur working with a 12-36 cassette but I took a gamble and it has certainly paid off.

Bought a new Shimano M810 Saint SS derailleur and installed it today. No problems whatsoever with the 12-36 cassette (I was worried about the 36T cog as the Saint is rated to a 11-34) and it shifts so much better than the Shimano SLX GS derailleur that I had before.

Crisp, instantaneous, and zero slop compared to before. Chain tension is also greater. I have it paired with a Shimano SLX shifter. I couldn't be happier with this upgrade and the results.


----------



## Noclutch (Jun 20, 2010)

Sram 2210, MRP Bling Ring 30t, e-13 XCX-ST E-type, XTR12-34, X-9 short cage (wish I could get a type II in 9 speed...)


----------



## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

QRing 1x9, wish I had 1x10 as could use a 36 tooth in the rear for grunt climbs.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Sickmak90 (May 27, 2012)

Shimano has a 12-36 tooth 9 speed cassette. I may get one eventually.

My BBG bashwhich


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

I find the bashwich works great for keeping the chain on. But my god it's a pain in the ass to clean all the crap out that accumulates between that and the chainring. Or on the chainring itself. By pain in the ass I mean pull the crank and take all the chainring bolts off to thoroughly clean it all. Any tips to avoid this? I'm thinking of ditching the bashwich and picking up the MRP thing.


----------



## Sickmak90 (May 27, 2012)

I would just hose it down with degreaser and water. Or maybe automotive brake parts cleaner.


----------



## venzboard (Nov 12, 2008)

Trying to arrive at 10 post so i can post my vintage 1x9 here too..

Nice bikes everyone


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Cormac said:


> But my god it's a pain in the ass to clean all the crap out that accumulates between that and the chainring. Or on the chainring itself. By pain in the ass I mean pull the crank and take all the chainring bolts off to thoroughly clean it all. Any tips to avoid this?


Hmmm... what I'm about to say may sound like heresy, but... I simply quit lubricating my chains. No oil on chain inside or outside, no dust attracted, no grime collected.

So far, liking the time savings better than the noise. YMMV, of course.


----------



## Sickmak90 (May 27, 2012)

I use that wax based lube and I also make sure I wipe the excess off really well.


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

J. Random Psycho said:


> Hmmm... what I'm about to say may sound like heresy, but... I simply quit lubricating my chains. No oil on chain inside or outside, no dust attracted, no grime collected.
> 
> So far, liking the time savings better than the noise. YMMV, of course.


YMMV indeed. How do your cassette and chainring hold up?



Sickmak90 said:


> I use that wax based lube and I also make sure I wipe the excess off really well.


I do too. But regardless if you go playing around in the mud it gets in there. The crunching of the little granules of dirt can't be good on anything. I've ridden muddy with the wax lube and a few times with wet lube. Neither seem to keep the chain from collecting crap. The wax is great for dry conditions and even seems to do better even in the wet conditions. The wet lube is like a magnet for everything regardless of conditions.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Cormac said:


> YMMV indeed. How do your cassette and chainring hold up?


They are fine. I'm riding a singlespeed drivetrain currently, 24T Hammerschmidt chainring and 20T Homebrewed Ti 2-piece cog. I just keep an eye on chain elongation and replace early.

So far the rate of chain wear has been comparable to the same model chain (KMC X1),same cogs, but with timely (or so I thought, based on noise) lubrication. I haven't yet gathered any significant amount of experience with this practice, but un-lubricated chains don't wear crazy fast for me.

Here's how I explain this to myself. Because of contamination by mineral dust, lubricant (oil or grease, but I'm not so sure about wax) in the chain turns into a grinding paste _long before_ the chain begins to make "dry running" sounds. So it's either clean thoroughly and lubricate after every ride (diligent execution of this strategy could extend chain life greatly), or make sure the chain is clean of anything that could retain dust in there.


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

Interesting. Not sure how running a cassette with a dry chain would work out. Though I'd imagine, not well. I should probably just stick with the dry lubes as I've not had any issues with it yet.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Why, it's just as safe for a cassette as it is for a cog, as long as chain wear is kept in check. It may be noisier, however, because of wildly varying chainline on 1xN drivetrain.

I made the decision to skip chain lubrication when a KMC X1 that I took care of, and had high hopes about, wore down in the same 6 months that it takes other 3/32" chains to wear to the same elongation on the same drivetrain.


----------



## venzboard (Nov 12, 2008)

Here's my classic Miyata Ridge Runner 1x9 set up..

















Still waiting for my N-Gear Jump Stop and Nashbar bashguard I ordered online..

Reason for running it 1x9 is because I can't get the FD to fit perfectly on the seat tube, it always comes loose, so decided to set it up to run 1x9..

And I'm lovin' it!


----------



## apinun (Mar 9, 2012)

*10' Giant XTC 1 w/ 1x9 setup*
MRP Lopes
e.13 32t 
Sram PC-951 
Shimano XT DR
Shimano XT M770 Cassette


----------



## bacon11 (Jul 3, 2009)

'07 Kona Explosif.

Giving 1x9 a try on the trails today to see if I can hack it, and if I can and like it, I'll get a spiderless crankset setup going and a new short cage derailleur/shifter set up. I can't remember if my cassette is 12-36 or 11-34.


----------



## Sickmak90 (May 27, 2012)

I have ridden at least five times with my bashwhich now with great results. Even with a pretty loose chain I have only had one chain drop. That only happened because my inner bashguard was bent inward slightly and had a big enough gap to allow the chain to fall in. Since bending it I have not had any issues. I still need to shorten my chain somewhat..


----------



## HAGASAN (Apr 13, 2010)

Need some guidance on a 1x9 setup. i have a Salsa Spearfish with x.9 cranks and DR with a BB30. currently 2x10 stock setup. Its more than needed and rather go 1x9.


----------



## Warshade (Jun 19, 2006)




----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

HAGASAN,
because of BB30 and a double you'll likely have to use a seat tube mounted chain guide (and likely one that adjusts widely for chainline, which narrows down the choice). There can be more options if your crankset is compatible with 64 and 104 mm BCD chainrings.


----------



## bacon11 (Jul 3, 2009)

Depending on how old the X9 cranks are, he could go spiderless with an MRP or HBC ring.


----------



## mazafakka (Dec 30, 2006)

Although admittedly I haven't read the entire thread, I haven't seen any mention of people using the K-edge DIRT chain catcher instead of an inner guide on the bashwich setups:
K-Edge DIRT-3 - Mountain - K-Edge Chain Catchers

Is there some advantage to having an entire inner plate instead of just the guard in most important place on the inside? Is anyone using these? I'm moving to a 1x10 soon, and I was planning to use a SRAM x9 2x crankset, replacing the outer ring with a HBC bashring and using the K-edge to keep the chain from jumping inward. Thoughts?


----------



## Sickmak90 (May 27, 2012)

One advantage to the bash guard over what you posted is price. $18 shipped for a inner bash compared to $40+ shipping. 

A lot of people run the cheap n-gear as a guard/chain watcher on the inside.


----------



## mazafakka (Dec 30, 2006)

Sickmak90 said:


> One advantage to the bash guard over what you posted is price. $18 shipped for a inner bash compared to $40+ shipping.
> 
> A lot of people run the cheap n-gear as a guard/chain watcher on the inside.


I already have a K-Edge Dirt on my current 3x9 setup and was hoping to just reuse the K-Edge. Looks like the makers of the K-Edge (which replaces a 2.5mm BB spacer) only make it to work with X-Type BBs and not GXP/SRAM BBs. What's odd, is that the 68mm GXP BB uses a 2.5mm spacer, which the K-Edge could replace. So I don't quite understand why it wouldn't work. I may call AceCo (makes the K-Edge) and see what they say. Sounds like an N-Gear might be in my future....


----------



## michael573114 (May 5, 2006)

mazafakka said:


> Looks like the makers of the K-Edge (which replaces a 2.5mm BB spacer) only make it to work with X-Type BBs and not GXP/SRAM BBs. What's odd, is that the 68mm GXP BB uses a 2.5mm spacer, which the K-Edge could replace. So I don't quite understand why it wouldn't work.


I've got a Dirt3 on a GXP BB, it works, though with some BBs (such as Chris King), you have to be a bit creative with your spacers to get the BB nut to stick out of the Dirt3 enough to get the BB socket onto it. I managed to do it, and get the chain line right where I wanted it. It worked with no trouble on my old SRAM GXP though.

I'm running 1x10, btw.


----------



## txxcrider (Aug 14, 2010)

Here is my 1x10 but ordered the e13 double rings just in case







Haven't mounted them yet, and hope I won't need to


----------



## mazafakka (Dec 30, 2006)

michael573114 said:


> I've got a Dirt3 on a GXP BB, it works, though with some BBs (such as Chris King), you have to be a bit creative with your spacers to get the BB nut to stick out of the Dirt3 enough to get the BB socket onto it. I managed to do it, and get the chain line right where I wanted it. It worked with no trouble on my old SRAM GXP though.
> 
> I'm running 1x10, btw.


I called AceCo and the guy I spoke with was very helpful. He worked through the problem with me. He said the Dirt3 should mount on the BB in place of the single drive side spacer, but that it might not be close enough to the chainring to prevent the chain from derailling inward. But he said I should try it and see. I guess they've had some success with both 73mm and 68mm GXP BBs but the GXPs are still not officially supported. I guess I'll give it a shot and if it doesn't work I'll order an N-Gear or other chain retention device....

Thanks for the input.


----------



## Brazilian Climber (Feb 14, 2011)

Thats pretty sick, what bike is that?


----------



## c3024446 (Apr 16, 2010)

Added a chain guide to the China-9r. Was running 1 x 10 just with the XTR Shadow + RD, but the chain would run off either side in extreme events. Even though it only fell off twice in 400km, putting it back on by stopping on the trail was a chore, and it scratched the frame when it dropped onto the inside. Should be bulletproof now.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

George436,
the Matrix has us.

Several hours ago I consulted a guy via the phone. He asked what parts he needs to convert his 26" Specialized Rockhopper to 1x9 with 44T up front. He intends to run this setup while he builds a proper cyclocross bike as a replacement for the 26".

It's as if similar events were being batched up and then released in closely timed sequences.


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

txxcrider said:


> Here is my 1x10 but ordered the e13 double rings just in case
> View attachment 717053
> 
> Haven't mounted them yet, and hope I won't need to


1x on a carbon bike with no chain guide? Brave soul.


----------



## txxcrider (Aug 14, 2010)

Cormac said:


> 1x on a carbon bike with no chain guide? Brave soul.


I have an e13 xcx chain guide on it, pic was taken before I put it on


----------



## Brazilian Climber (Feb 14, 2011)

27.5 inches and xx1


----------



## txxcrider (Aug 14, 2010)

Brazilian Climber said:


> 27.5 inches and xx1


That is one SEXY ride!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Daaaamn. I didn't expect to start seeing XX1 this soon. 
I decided to wait and see how Shimano responds to it.
Anyway, Sram is damn good at rocking the boat, as usual.


----------



## rallymaniac (Oct 12, 2011)

here is my 1x10 setup 
36t chainring 
25.5lb without SPDs


----------



## rbmslayer (May 14, 2012)

2011 Rocky Mountain Slayer
Originally Shimano M665 2x9 and now converted to 1x9 (29 lbs)
Front - MRP G2 SL Mini w/33T Renthal SR4
Rear - SRAM 971 12-34 w/X9 
Shifts clean and does not rub. Simple conversion that went way better than expected.


----------



## discomatt (Oct 21, 2011)

Brazilian Climber said:


> 27.5 inches and xx1


that is stunning!


----------



## natzx7 (May 30, 2007)

Brazilian Climber said:


> 27.5 inches and xx1


You must ride that wearing a pinstripe suit with a Tommy gun, It's so gangster. :thumbsup:


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

natzx7 said:


> You must ride that wearing a pinstripe suit with a Tommy gun, It's so gangster. :thumbsup:












Note the grin )


----------



## robertoo (Aug 31, 2012)

*My GF with 1x10*

I love the bike with this setup


----------



## natzx7 (May 30, 2007)

That's a nice looking GF. Question: how are you guys not dropping chains with no retention system? It looks great with a naked chainring up front. The chain on that GF looks long, too. I'm running a 1 x 9 with a bashwich and a Bionicon and I still throw a chain off my 32 up front on a really fast, rooty climb under the power sometimes.


----------



## fbabrove (Nov 9, 2011)

Brazilian Climber said:


> 27.5 inches and xx1


What kind of tires you got on that bad boy??


----------



## fbabrove (Nov 9, 2011)

What kind of tires you got on that bad boy??


----------



## Dan GSR (Apr 29, 2010)

natzx7 said:


> Question: how are you guys not dropping chains with no retention system?.


i just went thru this
either they are full of **** or not riding bumpy terrain
i tried just using an ngear, jumped
tried using ngear and bionicon, jumped
i just ordered a real chain guide


----------



## fbabrove (Nov 9, 2011)

I ride some rocky (a little bit) and extremely rooty here in south florida (ever seen the roots at Oleta?) and i ride with an unramped/unpinned Blackspire single speed ring and NEVER drop the chain. When I was using the stock shimano middle ring with a jump-stop I would still drop it on the roots, but with the ss ring and no jumpstop or chain guide the chain never comes off. Believe it if you want, and look up the roots at Oleta. I'm on a hard tail also, so no springs in the back helpin me out either. 

If you have the chain length right and a good ss ring (i also run a short cage rd), you won't drop the chain. either that or im lucky. Either way I've got a nice, quiet ride with nothing for the chain to rub on. :thumbsup:


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

^ wish I could say the same. I'm running a bashwich on mine with the 32t blackspire SS chainring. It is such a pain in the ass to clean when I ride in the mud as I have to pull the crank and take everything apart to get all the crud out. 

Couple weeks ago I lost the chain when riding over a log pile at speed. I must have started pedaling before the chain settled enough. But that was the only time I've lost a chain with that set up. I did try running with no bashwich earlier in the season, but the chain fell off a few times. A long cage derailleur doesn't keep tension as well as a short. But I guess I'll have to deal with the bashwich cleaning issue for now. I'd rather save for a new bike than drop coin on a new der.


----------



## robertoo (Aug 31, 2012)

i use ss ring and x9 type 2 rd which i believe helps in not dropping a chain.
To be honest the terrain i ride is not hard and i use 1x10 for a short period of time.


----------



## robertoo (Aug 31, 2012)

i have a short version of rd.


----------



## fbabrove (Nov 9, 2011)

I'm using an x9 short rd also. can be had for pretty cheap if you catch them on sale.


----------



## natzx7 (May 30, 2007)

Cormac said:


> Couple weeks ago I lost the chain when riding over a log pile at speed. I must have started pedaling before the chain settled enough.


This is my problem, I think. I've got a single speed front ring, bashwich, med cage, correct chain length, and a bionicon, It seems to happen, (and only a couple times) when I come down a fast, rough decent, bike going nuts over roots, then immediatley hit a really rooty climb on the other side at speed. I go to pedal up and the chain is wedged between the ring and the inner bash.


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

I didn't wedge the chain, it hopped over the inner guard and fell on the BB shell. I've never had an issue with wedging it. You running a 1x10? I could see it happening with that kind of set up since the chain is thinnner.


----------



## natzx7 (May 30, 2007)

Its a 1 X 9. I think it's just extreme conditions. I was just wondering how those guys kept their chain on with no retention system.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

I have no idea, either. Exceptionally smooth technique? Being especially good at unconscious control over leg movements when doing things that normally cause chains to drop?


----------



## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

I think the rear de-railer length has a lot to do with it. I still run a long RD on my 1x9 with an ngear, bashguard and ss chainring and have it jump inside very occasionally.


----------



## Dan GSR (Apr 29, 2010)

i have a x9 short cage, and jumped off


----------



## robertoo (Aug 31, 2012)

as I said before I have the newest version of x9 rd called type 2.
it uses the same solution as xx1 to better control the chain.


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

^ I think xx1 would be perfect for me! What's the biggest gear? 42 or something? Way more than I'd ever need. Unless I went with a 36 in front instead of my 32...
would be nice to have, but yea, I'd rather just save up for a new bike. Which will no doubt end up being a 1x10. I wouldn't even know how to ride a 2x10 set up, which most bikes in the 3k range seem to have.


----------



## Dummyrunner (May 25, 2011)

Just converted mine (1x9 - 12-36 with 28 tooth chainring) and have been pretty pleased for the most part. Did a 30km race last weekend for it's first real hitout, and didn't have an issue apart from a 3km section of road where maybe a slightly taller gear would have been useful. Most of my riding is pretty hilly so was pleased for the relatively low ratio.


----------



## asdrubal (Jan 17, 2010)

Hello

I've got myself N-gear jump stop for the inside but ordered an incorrect size. Anyone tried to expand this plastic? What if I kept it boiling water for few minutes, would it just brake or there's a chance to expand it a bit?


----------



## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

Read this page

N-Gear: Specs and Order Info.


----------



## iMTB ADAM (Oct 1, 2012)

*here's mine *

Works really well, only had one chain drop.

Really don't miss the lower and top ends of gearing lost after the conversion.

Saved 350g ish overall


----------



## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

Blur XC carbon. FD chain "guide". Race Face Single 34t. 11-34 in the back


----------



## iMTB ADAM (Oct 1, 2012)

Hey, it appears you are using a long cage derailleur.. like I am too. I believe a 34 front and 34-11 rear cassette will work with a short cage? Any thoughts ?
Cheers.


----------



## Nater (Jan 6, 2004)

Short cage rear mechs will basically work with _any_ single ring set up.


----------



## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

Yes it is a long cage. I did this on a budget to make sure I liked it. Picked up the front ring, removed the shifter and cable, lowered and adjusted the FD to work as a guide. Pretty simple conversion for a total of $15.90 and a loss of 300+grams. 

What are the benefits of a short cage versus long? Right now the gears shift near perfectly and there is almost no noticeable slap, not sure it's worth spending money on a short cage. I plan on ditching the FD and going guideless for a bit to see how it works. But as I see it, the FD was designed to be a guide, it works great, and I already paid for it. We will see what the winter maintenance and tear down brings.


----------



## iMTB ADAM (Oct 1, 2012)

apart from ?


----------



## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

iMTB ADAM said:


> apart from ?


Paying $$$ on a fancy guide. Weights aren't much different either. (which I may do anyway before it goes back together from teardown)


----------



## iMTB ADAM (Oct 1, 2012)

Sorry, was actually replying to Nater.


----------



## Nater (Jan 6, 2004)

iMTB ADAM said:


> Sorry, was actually replying to Nater.


Read this...

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...ong-cage-vs-short-cage-derailleur-284688.html

Basically, if your rear derailleur is rated to take the largest cog on the cassette you're planning on using, they have enough *capacity* to shift any cassette with single ring.

Most short cage rear derailleurs have a 25-30 tooth capacity.

for example 36-11(spread of cassette teeth)=25.
There is no difference in the spread of the chainrings if there is only a single ring. (the zero in the equation below).

(36-11) + (0)=25.

If you're running a double the formula would look something like this...
(36-11) + (32-22)=35

triple...
(36-11) + (44-22)=47

Now if you're using a rear mech that's only rated to work on a 34 tooth large cassette cog and you want to use a 36 tooth large cog, you may have trouble.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

BXCc said:


> I plan on ditching the FD and going guideless for a bit to see how it works.


:eekster: 
I wouldn't try that on such a fine carbon frame..


----------



## buckpaxton (Dec 31, 2011)

*'04 Gary Fisher Tassajara 1x9*

My current set-up is an '04 GF Tassajara that mostly collected dust while fatherhood took up all of my time. Decided to go back to basics with the rigid steel fork, the RS Pilot it came with was junk. After 20 years riding clipless, also decided to give flats a try; best decision ever when matched up with 5.10 Freeriders. She weighs a ton but is an absolute blast to ride. My riding partner is 7, so speed really isn't a factor, yet. The cranks, BB and seat post will be the next to go. Thinking about a new wheelset, or at least a lighter rear, over the winter.


----------



## the_pope (Aug 15, 2012)

love all the bikes here. am setting up a 1x9 fully rigid 29er, will post pics when i'm done


----------



## JDYMTB (Aug 20, 2012)

I am messing around with a 1x9 setup on my Cake 3 at the moment. i put a 34 tooth up front and left the front derailluer on to see how it will all work. if i like it (and I think i will because my other ride is a SS) i will probably pick up a bash gaurd since i ride some tough terrain and possibly an n-gear chain guide. Does anyone have any problems with those? do they do the trick on keeping the chain from jumping off when shifting to the larger cogs? My other thought is getting a SS specific ring up front that has the taller teeth. Does anyone run like that without a chain guide?

EDIT: I should also mention that i am running a long cage sram x-0 RD. if i shorten the chain enough will that work ok?


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

There are a few here who run a SS ring with no guide and seem to have no issues. In my experience I need a guide. Tried running with no guide and was just irritated at how many times the chain fell off the first ride after removing the bashwich and shortening the chain. I'm sure my alvio long cage is the main culprit. Your running XO so it's worth a shot. It's free to try anyway!

I have either a paul chain keeper or MRP post mount on the way...once I figure out which I want. I'm using the old front derailleur again for a guide as I've recently sold my bashwich.


----------



## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

32x11-34, 650B wheels, SLX medium cage RD, MRP G2 SL guide. Feels pretty solid so far but I would prefer something easier on my legs like 30x12-36.


----------



## obdon (Sep 7, 2011)

Casseroll. Just finished and took her for a test ride and I am very pleased. The bike is a lot lighter now with the new handlebar setup and all, and the gearing is perfect for my riding. 36t up front and 11-32. The bar end shifter works just fine indexed, but I find now that am liking friction mode more because it's so much easier to move the lever. The documentation that came with the levers said only to be used with a Dura Ace RD which really bummed me out, but after learning about it here I went ahead and installed it. No regrets, smooth and crisp. Shifter mounted to a Paul Thumbie, and also a Paul chain keeper. I was losing the chain on an earlier test ride, took a few links out and that, combined with a ss chainring, probably fixed it. I'll keep the Paul on just for insurance. I'm not happy with the cabling, as the shifter cable touches the brake lever, but don't know what else to do. I tried mounting that Thumbie all over. It's ok, it doesn't actually interfere with the lever, but the cable is a bit more stressed out than I'd like.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

obdon,
try rigging a V-brake noodle to the friction shifter. This may help route the cable clear of that lever.


----------



## obdon (Sep 7, 2011)

I am actually searching for something like that right now. Would a noodle firmly insert into an adjuster?


----------



## obdon (Sep 7, 2011)

Just went out and tried an old one I had in the box. Not too bad, a little loose but probably good enough. Looks like that's the solution yippee! Thanks so much.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Those little curvy things still have uses even after V-brakes themselves are phased out.
Ride on! )


----------



## obdon (Sep 7, 2011)

I see that they even make 135 degree which would be even better as I could route the cable on the proper side of the downtube. Now I'm wondering how the 4mm housing would interface with it. Guessing I would have to get one with an adjuster...that would make four adjusters for the rear derailleur lol!


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

I just wanted to mention that you guys rock. This thread has 2000 replies and half a million views in the last 6 years.

It also appears that  Widgit  has bought quite a bit of advertising space in the drivetrain forum, which is awesome. Give them a click sometime. Their ad is on most of the pages I've visited today.

Thanks,
Ryan


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

Ditched my bashwich for this set up. Reason being I don't really need a bashguard and I wanted something different. Also I plan to go with a 34t up front. Probably come spring at this point. Less obnoxious looking than the derailleur. And probably more effective. I'll find out tomorrow on my test ride! I'm sure I'll have to fine tune the placement, but should be good for now. To much lower and it'll rub the crank arms. 

I would have gotten an MRP but for some stupid ass reason the MRP that mounts to the seat post tube is $50 more than the BB mount. WTF? The BB mount wont work with my BB and I wasn't about to pay an extra $50 for the same exact thing, just a different mounting style. Nice scam MRP has running there!


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

^^^ That's nice! Make/model please...


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

I assume your referring to the guide?

Origin8 Torqlite UL Chain Guide - 31.8/34.9mm Clamp


----------



## max_lombardy (Apr 29, 2012)

Here's mine:


----------



## andrewkhn (Oct 21, 2012)

I have a shimano saint m800-1 crankset with a 36t chain ring. I'm really eager to swap the 36t with something like a 28t so I can still do some of the pretty steep uphills without walking. Is it possible to go smaller than a 32 with the saint cranks? I'd rather not have to completely replace my crankset because of insufficient funds. (freshman in college)


----------



## Nater (Jan 6, 2004)

andrewkhn said:


> I have a shimano saint m800-1 crankset with a 36t chain ring. I'm really eager to swap the 36t with something like a 28t so I can still do some of the pretty steep uphills without walking. Is it possible to go smaller than a 32 with the saint cranks? I'd rather not have to completely replace my crankset because of insufficient funds. (freshman in college)


Not easily. You can go down to a 30 tooth with an Anderson Machine ring and some file work on your crankset. Can't get to 28 tooth for sure though.

Or get a Widget. Not cheap either.


----------



## xjbaylor (Sep 22, 2006)

Here is mine. 34T chainring with 11-34T cassette controlled by an X0 short cage RD. Up front is an N-Gear jump stop. Not a single problem in over a year of use.


----------



## andrewkhn (Oct 21, 2012)

Nater said:


> Not easily. You can go down to a 30 tooth with an Anderson Machine ring and some file work on your crankset. Can't get to 28 tooth for sure though.
> 
> Or get a Widget. Not cheap either.


Thanks for the advice.
I just recently bought my bike off ebay and originally wanted to just add a 24t chainring and make it a 2x9 set up. So I took it to the nearest EMS and the bike tech there said he couldn't add the 24t ring because the spots (not sure exactly what their called) where it fits on to the crank were shaved down. Would that be the place that needed filing?


----------



## Nater (Jan 6, 2004)

andrewkhn said:


> Would that be the place that needed filing?


Nope. The inside of the chain ring mounting tabs for the middle ring need to be chamfered to allow the chain to actually contact the teeth on the 30 tooth ring.

See here.
Product Info « Andersen Machine's Blog


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

andrewkhn said:


> Thanks for the advice.
> the bike tech there said he couldn't add the 24t ring because the spots (not sure exactly what their called) where it fits on to the crank were shaved down.


Sounds like you're stuck with 30T Andersen as the smallest ring you can run on that crankset..


----------



## danec99 (Jul 22, 2010)

32t with 11-34, N-Gear chain thingy


----------



## seanpatrickb (Sep 14, 2011)

Just installed a new ring and guide. SR4 32 tooth, LG1+, and X9. Does the angle look good on the guide? First time installing one.


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

^ if you can get full range on your cassette with no rubbing then it's fine.


----------



## seanpatrickb (Sep 14, 2011)

Thanks^. I realized I put it on at the 1 o clock position instead of the 11 (installed upside down), so I relaxed it a bit, although it shifted fine both ways.


----------



## Brazilian Climber (Feb 14, 2011)

36t chainring in the front and 11-36 spd in the back

i luv it!


----------



## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

Running a 30T ring and BBG bashwich.


----------



## Mon Guapo (Jul 17, 2009)

*Voodoo Hoodoo*

My 1x9 Setup:

Frame: Voodoo Hoodoo (Dark Green) Circa 07
Fork: 2007 Suntour Epicon with lockout (100mm)
Handle Bar: Truvativ Stylo Team (oversize)
Grip: Sram
Stem: Thomson x4 (80mm)
Headset: Cris King Standard Headset
Seatpost: Thomson Elite
Saddle: WTB Shadow ti
Brakeset: BB7
Rotors: Avid G3 160mm
RD: Sram x7
Cogs: Sram PG 990 Spider
Chain: PC971
Crank set: Truvativ Stylo
Wheelset: Sunringle
Hubs: Sunringle Dirty Flee
Tires: Kenda Koyote


----------



## Mon Guapo (Jul 17, 2009)

*My Voodoo Hoodoo Circa 07*


----------



## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

Fresh 32T bling ring w/ SRAM 1400 cranks


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Although I'm not a fan of GXP (as compared to Hollowtech 2), but those 1400 and AKA cranks look the part with an MRP Bling Ring. I confess that I too have a set of these stashed.


----------



## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

GXP feels cheap but the design is quite smart, you must forget everything about hollowtech in order to set these up properly though. Plus you need a variety of spacers for the non drive side to make it all work with a chainguide.


----------



## jesspal (Apr 26, 2009)

Just finished up yesterday.

2011 Marin Nail Trail 29er
BBG Baswich
Blackspire Mono Veloce 32
Ordered a XT shadow plus Rd, may add some additional security. 
I got it off bonk town for $75, so just decided to do it.










Any advice or feedback is appreciated. This is the first project I have done to one of my bikes with my own two hands. Feels good.


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

jesspal said:


> Just finished up yesterday.
> 
> 2011 Marin Nail Trail 29er
> BBG Baswich
> ...


I have the same BBG setup. The open part of the bashguard should be behind the crank, not as strong as the other three sections (and doesn't look all that great either)


----------



## jesspal (Apr 26, 2009)

jm626 said:


> I have the same BBG setup. The open part of the bashguard should be behind the crank, not as strong as the other three sections (and doesn't look all that great either)


Yeah, I didn't realize I had it 90 degrees off, I shifted the bashguard. Thanks.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Still loving my 1x10 BBG setup.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

damn Marpilli, your rig has outlived my relationship with a girlfriend who has a GT Aggressor and who was inspired by your paint-stripped frame and done the same to hers )


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

When you're poor you have to squeeze every ounce of use out of some things...


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

oops, I didn't mean that.
I'm in a similar boat and find that it's good when bikes serve long times.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

:lol: No offense taken. 

Going with a raw look was one of the best decisions on that bike. Seriously low maintenance. Was going to insert some joking girlfriend/wife reference here (regarding low maintenance); but, decided I'd better shut my mouth.


----------



## jcolletteiii (Dec 1, 2010)

marpilli said:


> Still loving my 1x10 BBG setup.


Ever have any problems with the chain coming off the front ring and getting stuck between the chain ring and the outer bash plate? I had this happen once going downhill into a rock garden - luckily the fall I took was not onto any of the rocks... The problem was that I never replaced the old Shimano middle chainring I'm sure. I've since replaced it since with a Blackspire SS chainring and have not had a similar issue since. The BBG plates are quite easy to bend - I think I'm going to replace the bashwich with an MRP G2.


----------



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

jcolletteiii said:


> Ever have any problems with the chain coming off the front ring and getting stuck between the chain ring and the outer bash plate? I had this happen once going downhill into a rock garden - luckily the fall I took was not onto any of the rocks... The problem was that I never replaced the old Shimano middle chainring I'm sure. I've since replaced it since with a Blackspire SS chainring and have not had a similar issue since. The BBG plates are quite easy to bend - I think I'm going to replace the bashwich with an MRP G2.


I haven't had a problem. But, I'm not running a ramped chanring. I'm using a 30T Andersen Machine SS chainring.

To date, this setup has been bulletproof on the trails I ride. I've taken it over some pretty bumpy stuff at speed (fast for me on a HT) without issues.


----------



## CRed (Aug 4, 2007)

A lot of nice bikes in here,here's mine.....


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Bonus points for Manitou fork!


----------



## iMTB ADAM (Oct 1, 2012)

*an update*

Currently at 29.7lb.

31.7lb when new.


----------



## iMTB ADAM (Oct 1, 2012)

CRed said:


> A lot of nice bikes in here,here's mine.....


Hey mate. Your bike looks INCREDIBLE. What is the overall weight of that thing?


----------



## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

CRed said:


> A lot of nice bikes in here,here's mine.....


Whoa you are pushing some serious gears, how big is that chainring?


----------



## CRed (Aug 4, 2007)

iMTB ADAM said:


> Hey mate. Your bike looks INCREDIBLE. What is the overall weight of that thing?


Thanks!It's about 23 lbs. with pedals.Your bike looks great too!


----------



## CRed (Aug 4, 2007)

StiHacka said:


> Whoa you are pushing some serious gears, how big is that chainring?


The front ring is 32t.The cassette is a Shimano Ultegra 11t/21t since I don't do much climbing.I am 46 and while I am not a couch potato I am not an athlete either so if I do run into a climb that needs more than that I would probably end up walking it up anyway.I sure didn't go 1x in front or use a road cassette just to lose bike weight,that would be silly,but my bike does exactly what I need it to do and I'm very happy with it.It does look kind of weird though.Actually my LBS suggested the change since they noticed I was only wearing out the first 4-5 gears on the mountain cassette I had on my last bike.

I just saw your bike...very nice!


----------



## Tripower (Jan 4, 2011)

*Jugsley*

1X9 fatty and four on the floor :thumbsup:


----------



## MObiker (Feb 14, 2004)

*chain guide*



TaupoRider said:


> Here she is:


I have a Camber 29er and would like to go 1 x 10. Which MRP chain guide did you get? Is it mounted to the crank? I have a carbon frame so I'm a bit worried about how to mount this.


----------



## therollex (Oct 21, 2005)

awesome bike!


----------



## revcp (Jun 21, 2007)

*Bob Brown Route 29er*

Mostly finished as of a few days ago. Bought this off craigs as a 1x1. Transitioned to a 1x9 with sram x9 shifter, sram x7 short cage derailleur, 11x32 cassette and chain. The bars are nashbar trekker (I'm using it as a commuter and it's other major use will be for touring). The front rack is a OMM cold spring (panniers are old Maddens from the '80s), saddle bag is Banjo Brothers. Final touch will be a Brooks b17 special honey colored.
The Bob Brown is a beautiful lugged frame. Light for steel, responsive. Very nice. Sorry about the poor quality of the pics.


----------



## edle (Jul 18, 2012)

*This is a very nice looking Dean Colonel.*



rrdiaz30 said:


> I just finished a 1x9 conversion of my trusted 1999 Dean Colonel. John at Dean USA welded on the brake tabs and James Flatman at Alchemy Bicycle Co. did some cable boss mods. This is her 3rd major rebuild in 12 years. I blinged her out with some Moots and Eriksen Ti components and a Dean fork. It's all XT. BBG guard on an E-Thirteen 32T chainwheel. First ride tonight for a shakedown.
> 
> Cheers...Rick


I recently bought a used Dean Colonel in Size Small. I see u have the Dean Ti fork. How is it ? Do u like it ?

Thanks.....


----------



## mbco1975 (Feb 28, 2012)

*My Ghetto 1x9*

Total cost of conversion: $7.99 for the shorter bolts.


----------



## MObiker (Feb 14, 2004)

Cormac said:


> I find the bashwich works great for keeping the chain on. But my god it's a pain in the ass to clean all the crap out that accumulates between that and the chainring. Or on the chainring itself. By pain in the ass I mean pull the crank and take all the chainring bolts off to thoroughly clean it all. Any tips to avoid this? I'm thinking of ditching the bashwich and picking up the MRP thing.


I was worried about that also. I clean my chain after about every ride. The Bashwich and Wigget seem like they would be hard to deal with.


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

^nice! How you like the brain? The alloy epic is an option I'm looking into in about a year, just unsure about the brain.


----------



## mbco1975 (Feb 28, 2012)

Cormac said:


> ^nice! How you like the brain? The alloy epic is an option I'm looking into in about a year, just unsure about the brain.


Thanks.

I love the Epic and really like the brain, but I've nothing to compare it to as it's my first FS.

When I first got it, I kept messing with the brain settings during my rides, instead of giving one setting a chance for a few days to see how much I liked it. Its definitely worth experimenting with though if / when you first get it.

Now I have it all dialed in the way I like it, I never touch it. Only exception was when I went to Moab where I set it fully opened.


----------



## jcolletteiii (Dec 1, 2010)

My '07 MKIII. It's been upgraded just a bit. BBG bashwich with a Blackspire 32t front and 11-36 rear. Sorry for bad cell pic.


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

fbabrove said:


> Hey all, this is by far my favorite thread...and it absolutely inspired me to go 1x9 on my Giant Revel HT. I have been riding it for about a month and I completely love it. I decided to keep the middle ring (32T) from my Shimano Deore crank, and use a RaceFace Bash and a Jump-Stop. I went to a medium cage Sram x-7 RD, and I haven't dropped a chain yet. My only problem is that I get some bad, annoying rubbing on the bash in my smallest few gears.
> 
> I ordered a Salsa 32T single speed chainring, along with some shallow bolts. I am thinking about running this ring with the Jump-Stop but without a bash.
> 
> My question for all you experts is about chain-line: Since I am sticking with a 32T ring the same size as my stock middle ring, and going without a bash, do I need to do anything with my chain-line, or should it set up just fine? I am a complete noob when it comes to chainline, so any info/advice would be great.


I had the same problem with slight rubbing on lowest two gears. Try some .6mm chainring bolt spacers, worked for me.


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

natzx7 said:


> Chain jumped off my bashwich today. I came down a fast,short decent, followed by a sharp rooty climb. I got a lot of speed up on the drop so I wouldn't have to pump the climb. The little climb had my bike really bucking, and I was pedaling to keep speed, My chain jumped to the inside, Between the chainring and the BBG inner bash. I guess maybe I need a Bionicon? Thoughts, 1x9 guys?


0.6mm chrainring bolt spacers. I had the same issue. With these the chain won't fit between the ring and inner guard.


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

marpilli said:


> A few updated photos of my 1x10. I'm still very happy with the BBG bashwich. I needed something a bit more than the N-Stop and less than an e*thirteen. The double BBG guards fit the bill perfectly...
> 
> View attachment 697901
> 
> ...


I love this bike, especially the raw frame. You can tell this bike has seen a LOT of trail time (in a good way). Reminds me of my old '98 GT Zaskar (I miss that bike).


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

Reporter said:


> Here is my new 1x10 set up, Bling 30t and XT 11-36.


Awesome setup, that chainring looks beefy!


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

marpilli said:


> After my 8 speed drivetrain self destructed last Saturday, I had to replace a bunch of stuff. Introducing my 1x10 XT update. :thumbsup:
> 
> View attachment 664871
> 
> ...


What model/year is this frame?


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

s4gobabygo said:


> my "bash guard" would probably melt if i hit something hard enough, but it guides the chain nicely. i just cut down a chainring i wasn't using. it only weighs 36g. all together, i saved 404g:
> 
> removed:
> 135g shimano lx left shifter, cable, and housing
> ...


Ghetto!


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

slowpoker said:


> My '99 Fisher that used to be a Ziggurat. I removed the spring and cable clamp from the front derailleur, and dropped it all the way down. It has worked great so far.


Nice ride. Frame finish looks hot, did you buff it out or something?


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

Fooshnicken said:


> Just a few updated pictures since I removed all the paint from my old Kona  This has a 36T middle chain ring up front and I'm using an N-Gear jump stop on the seat tube. It has the original 11-32 casette on the rear. I haven't bothered with any sort of chain device on this setup so far.


I love aluminum frames with the paint stripped.. 1 more!


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

Ricci Chang said:


> IVA's Evil Sovereign remains my favorite bike of this thread (if not the whole pinkbike site). But Pipes10's custom 1x9 Double and Nomad are serious beauty!
> View attachment 488858
> 
> Nowhere as sexy as those bikes, here is my wife's 1x9 Hammer which I just lightened it by 1.1lb (18 unused gears). She is loving it after 3 days (20km) ride. Blackspire 36T front and X9 rear derailer works like charm.


Sweet ride. Last one!


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

Here's mine. Found an old Klein on craigslist for a steal. Have hardly put any money into it (yet.. give me time) and it rides great. Front derallieurs have always been my least favourite part on any bike. Looks so much cleaner without one. Going to try a Thudbuster post and the Stans tubeless conversion kit for next season (sadly in around 4 months from now). Eventually want to pick up a SRAM short cage RD and a new fork.


----------



## voodoo5 (Feb 2, 2011)

StiHacka said:


>


Nice. What model of MRP chain guide/skid is that?


----------



## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

voodoo5 said:


> Nice. What model of MRP chain guide/skid is that?


Well, it is a G2 SL Mini for Ibis with the lower guide snapped off. ::madmax: I have already replaced it with a G2.


----------



## voodoo5 (Feb 2, 2011)

StiHacka said:


> Well, it is a G2 SL Mini for Ibis with the lower guide snapped off. ::madmax: I have already replaced it with a G2.


Was the lower guide snapped off intentionally? Because I'm looking for a chain guide + skid without lower chain guide... :idea:


----------



## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

voodoo5 said:


> Was the lower guide snapped off intentionally? Because I'm looking for a chain guide + skid without lower chain guide... :idea:


Unfortunately, no. A stick in the drive train made the skid break around the pulley bolt hole. I filed the skid down a bit to not interfere with the chain and had been happily riding it for a few weeks before I got the G2.


----------



## jcolletteiii (Dec 1, 2010)

voodoo5 said:


> Was the lower guide snapped off intentionally? Because I'm looking for a chain guide + skid without lower chain guide... :idea:


I know, right? That is exactly what I'm looking for to replace my BBG bashwich. Once the outer bash bends (REALLY easy to do), it's rather hard to get it perfectly straight again. At this point, the outer bash had so many bends straightened, it rubs on the chain when I'm toward the small cog making an annoying grating noise.

Fortunately, MRP is coming out with the AMG - it should be in retailers hands by mid-December (as soon as I saw it's announcement, I sent MRP an email asking when it would be out!). Can't wait to get my hands on this (on the right side below)!


----------



## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

Here is my setup, 1x10, with some gettho 2 stingers as chain guide. whatever works. I lost one roller long time ago, now I put bolt & nut with bushing for top guide.
I hv those 2 stingers in my garage for awhile, so I use them both now, since last week only, it was 3x10. luckily my bike came with 2 spacers on drive side, so replaced them with 2 stingers, no problem.


----------



## prestigemtb (Dec 6, 2012)

Dh...


----------



## iMTB ADAM (Oct 1, 2012)

*2nd update*

Swapped the XT long cage for a medium shadow one. Much less chain slap and crisper shifting.

Horrible original "X mission" saddle replaced with a Selle Italia XR flow.. 80g lighter and much more comfortable...

Total weight lost = 100g.

Overall bike weight: 29.4lb


----------



## Luke Chen (Nov 21, 2012)

*Y2K GIANT MCM-Team*

I bought the factory build bike at 2001,but now only the frame is still original
Total weight:9.2kg
Drive train setup：
XCX E-type
FSA single speed 38T
RIDEA BB386 Crank
SHIMANO CN-7901 chain
SHIMANO CS-M960 11-34 9S cassette
SRAM X0 9S RD
SRAM X0 9S gripshift

Thinking of next step：
SRAM XX gripshift
SRAM XX cassette 11-36
SRAM X0 10S RD middle cage


----------



## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

you guys seem to be experts on this subject  for a 1x9 or 1x10 your chainline should be about 50-51mm? that's what a few minutes on google taught me, just wanted to double check on what you guys are running!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Yes, it's typically 50 mm (to the center plane of ring teeth) on modern external type cranksets that have thread-in BB cups and are intended for 68..73 mm BB shells. Because of different ways of axial preloading, this chainline may be adjusted in most cases by 1 mm to either side, sometimes more.


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

*Ultegra SS short cage with 11-32t cassette?*

Anyone here running a short cage Shimano road RD? I'm thinking it would easier (i.e. cheaper) than replacing my XT with new SRAM RD, shifter and levers. is there a maximum tooth count for road derailleurs? (even with a single ring up front) TIA


----------



## MrBadger (Apr 4, 2010)

jm626 said:


> Anyone here running a short cage Shimano road RD? I'm thinking it would easier (i.e. cheaper) than replacing my XT with new SRAM RD, shifter and levers. is there a maximum tooth count for road derailleurs? (even with a single ring up front) TIA


Usually 27t max i think. I did run a short cage Tiagra with 11-28t cassette and it was fine but i don't think they will stretch to 32t.


----------



## Deer_Dodger (Jun 15, 2011)

Recently sold my Commencal frame and replaced with an old bashed Stinky Air, then rebuilt with new bearings. Still looks like an old shed, but rides well!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## beerguitar69 (Nov 5, 2011)

SRAM type 2 and a BBG bash ring. No chain guide. Over 200 miles and I have only dropped the chain twice, both were my fault. Pedaling backwards over some roots. The type 2 kicks butt.


----------



## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

Here's my setup again, this time with a complete MRP G2 guide.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)




----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

ooooh, the Ibis and the Kona are soooo porn.


----------



## lokomonkey (Jun 18, 2005)

my rig


----------



## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Airborne Guardian with 1x9 conversion. BBG Bash and Ngear. No jumps in well over 100 miles.


----------



## mtec (Sep 23, 2010)

Modified MRP G2. 
Just recently went down to a 32T ring, time will tell how the gearing feels.


----------



## Roadsters (Jul 7, 2008)

jm626 said:


> Anyone here running a short-cage Shimano road rear derailleur?












Sure. I've been using the Dura-Ace 7700 rear derailleurs and a Dura-Ace 7700 12-27 cassettes on mountain bikes for years. They work beautifully, and if you're using a close-ratio cassette like a 12-21 or 12-23, they shift better than an XTR derailleur, which seems to prefer bigger cassettes.

The Dura-Ace 7700 derailleur's rated capacity is 28 teeth, and just so you know, the weight of a Dura-Ace 7700 rear derailleur is almost exactly the same - within five grams - of an XTR M970 rear derailleur.



















I like to set my bikes up without a front derailleur or shifter, but with the three chainrings still in place for when I need them. That's what I did with my new carbon full-suspension bike (in the photo above). The weight of the extra chainrings is probably not that different from a chain guide, and there are times when it's nice to be able to reach down and slide the chain over and save your knees on a climb or make good time on a descent or with a tailwind.


----------



## c3024446 (Apr 16, 2010)

Up to 600 miles on this setup now and 300 with the Q-Ring, hasn't missed a beat.

I REALLY like the Q-ring!


----------



## MrBadger (Apr 4, 2010)

mtec said:


> Modified MRP G2.
> Just recently went down to a 32T ring, time will tell how the gearing feels.


mtec, i'm keen to see what you've done to the top of that MRP guide! Any chance of a close up photo or explanation please?


----------



## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

c3024446 said:


> Up to 600 miles on this setup now and 300 with the Q-Ring, hasn't missed a beat.
> 
> I REALLY like the Q-ring!


Does the Q-ring really make that big of a difference?


----------



## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

Roadsters said:


> Sure. I've been using the Dura-Ace 7700 rear derailleurs and a Dura-Ace 7700 12-27 cassettes on mountain bikes for years. They work beautifully, and if you're using a close-ratio cassette like a 12-21 or 12-23, they shift better than an XTR derailleur, which seems to prefer bigger cassettes.
> 
> The Dura-Ace 7700 derailleur's rated capacity is 28 teeth, and just so you know, the weight of a Dura-Ace 7700 rear derailleur is almost exactly the same - within five grams - of an XTR M970 rear derailleur.
> 
> I like to set my bikes up without a front derailleur or shifter, but with the three chainrings still in place for when I need them. That's what I did with my new carbon full-suspension bike (in the photo above). The weight of the extra chainrings is probably not that different from a chain guide, and there are times when it's nice to be able to reach down and slide the chain over and save your knees on a climb or make good time on a descent or with a tailwind.


Note that while this may work for you, it's not recommended in general as the short cage derailleur doesn't have the capacity to take up the extra slack in the chain while using the big-big combo.


----------



## mtec (Sep 23, 2010)

MrBadger said:


> mtec, i'm keen to see what you've done to the top of that MRP guide! Any chance of a close up photo or explanation please?


Sure, all I did was cut it down a bunch after it broke. It constantly rubbed anyway.
So all it is is the part that rides above the chain to keep it jumping vertically. If it cant jump off vertically, it shouldnt ever be able to come off. We'll see how it works.


----------



## MrBadger (Apr 4, 2010)

mtec said:


> Sure, all I did was cut it down a bunch after it broke. It constantly rubbed anyway.
> So all it is is the part that rides above the chain to keep it jumping vertically. If it cant jump off vertically, it shouldnt ever be able to come off. We'll see how it works.


Thanks for that. Tricky to see it properly in your photo.


----------



## MObiker (Feb 14, 2004)

Went from a 2 x10 SRAM 2200 crank to the 32 toooth Raceface and an MRP S3 chainguide on my Spec Camber. The ring is way out there so it took a bunch of shimming but is holding up well, no complaints.


----------



## c3024446 (Apr 16, 2010)

Cormac said:


> Does the Q-ring really make that big of a difference?


I have a least found no disadvantages to it, well except for being $125 out of pocket. I replaced a 32T ring with the 34T Q-ring and have found:

1. Lower back pain noticeably reduced after long rides, legs also seem less tired (may also because of getting fitter and stronger though)
2. Feels really good climbing, the 32 was harder to climb with than the 34Q, so my climb times have improved greatly. Struggling at 40 cadence, the pedals just seem to turn over easier as well.
3. Feels really good when standing up and mashing the pedals in a sprint situation

All this could be because i was a crap pedaller before, and the Q has made it a bit better, but it has definitely worked well for me.

I now want some for the road bike, but since that needs two rings, i have to fork out over $200. Hmm :skep:


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Very interesting, especially the stand and mash part for SSing applications. Drivetrain will have to include a spring-loaded chain tensioner but it may be worth trying..


----------



## c3024446 (Apr 16, 2010)

^ over on the single speed forum there is nothing but praise for them. Also, you don't need a special tensioner as the same amount of teeth are always engaged, or there is not much difference between the high and low points.

I was worried mine wouldn't work with the clutch derailleur stopping movement, but it doesn't look to move at all.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Here's what I've just found in 29er subforum. Short version: there is some tension variation but it's small enough to run without tensioner.


----------



## Skoezie (Apr 11, 2006)

Steel 33t singlespeed chainring in the front with a Superstar XCR guide.










Nice and simple. Love it


----------



## naedward812 (Oct 31, 2012)

Ok, so I have spent the better part of the day googling for answers and some new cranks. 

Question. If you have take 2 of your 3 chainrings(big and little) off, and put a Single-Speed Specific ring on, do you need a guide? Aren't the SS rings suppose to have longer teeth so you don't need a guide? 

I ride in south Florida, so it's all XC. And I ride a '10 GF X-Cal.

Thanks!!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

I'd put on a top cage in any case. And used a Shadow+ RD.


----------



## Hey wait up! (Feb 4, 2013)

*My 1x9 setup*

'09 rockhopper- 1x9 is the most recent addition. Just finished the install this AM. Only stock item left is the post clamp...suggestions..?


----------



## defenestratingchupacabra1 (Jul 6, 2010)

2012 GF Superfly AL: Sram x.9 type 2 RD, XX Shifter, XT 11-36 Cassette and BBG Bashwich


----------



## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

1x10 Krampus 

X9 drivetrain
34t Salsa chainring
11-36t cassette
Paul chain keeper

First 1x10 setup, I'm really enjoying it so far.


----------



## tsurun (Mar 13, 2009)

hi.
built with NSB chainring.













=


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

It's great to have options!


----------



## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

On One Inbred with X.9 shifter & RD. MRP Lopes SL chainguide with 32T E.13 guidering and 11-32T cassette.


----------



## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

*Version 2.0*

Here is the new Blur. Some new parts and some old.


----------



## Skoezie (Apr 11, 2006)

tsurun said:


> hi.
> built with NSB chainring.
> View attachment 772942
> View attachment 772943
> ...


Love the look of that short Zee rear mech. :thumbsup: Will be replacing my long XT with one as soon it is available again


----------



## dipper44 (Feb 24, 2013)

Looks great man, I'm trying to do the same thing with my s2200 on my stumpy. I'm having a hell of a time removal the crank arm though, is there anything special to do besides loosening the 10mm extracting bolt? Any help is greatly appreciated!


----------



## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/s2200-crankset-removal-827098.html


----------



## 11trk4300 (Nov 1, 2010)

E13 ss chainring
Mrp chainguide


----------



## tcpowder2 (May 6, 2008)

Hi, I'm looking for a shimano XT or XTR (preferably m970) shifter. Any chance someone wants to sell one of the shifters that you've taken off? Thanks, Tim


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

tcpowder2 said:


> Hi, I'm looking for a shimano XT or XTR (preferably m970) shifter. Any chance someone wants to sell one of the shifters that you've taken off? Thanks, Tim


Umm, NO! That's what the classified section is for.


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

Hey said:


> '09 rockhopper- 1x9 is the most recent addition. Just finished the install this AM. Only stock item left is the post clamp...suggestions..?


Nice, except doesn't the post-mounted MRP bug you? Were you not able to run the BB mounted one? Maybe it's me but aesthetically it looks sort of homemade..


----------



## cyberavner (Sep 27, 2011)

Anyone know of a chainguide that will work with a 28T chainring on a FS bike (Yeti 575)?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

cyberavner,
check out MRP Micro. Or just run some XX1 cranks. BTW, I think there are more XX1-like chainrings in the works right now, all from small(ish) brands.


----------



## 84532 (Mar 8, 2013)

chain tensioner vs. no chain tensioner...any comments? i'm currently using an MRP 2X on my 2x9 setup and would like to know if i could get away with just running a top guide like seen on a lot of the setups here. i ride moab a lot so i'm thinking i might need one still but i like the cleaner simplicity of not having a tensioner in the mix.


----------



## danec99 (Jul 22, 2010)

*1991 Rockhopper*









Have not needed a chain guide on this setup. Would like to add a carbon bar.


----------



## jasonwfreak (May 14, 2010)

84532 said:


> chain tensioner vs. no chain tensioner...any comments? i'm currently using an MRP 2X on my 2x9 setup and would like to know if i could get away with just running a top guide like seen on a lot of the setups here. i ride moab a lot so i'm thinking i might need one still but i like the cleaner simplicity of not having a tensioner in the mix.


Top guide as in just the front derailleur you mean? You could get away without the lower guide, with the new 10 speed clutch type rear derailleurs or Sram Type 2's. 9-speed rear derailleur springs tension is still on the soft side compared to the new 10-speed derailleurs(not campatible with your 9-speed drivetrain). Best to keep your chainguide on the 9-speed drivetrain.


----------



## cyberavner (Sep 27, 2011)

Here is my take on a poor-man's XX1.
A custom 11-42 10 speed cassette and an offset 28T chainring.
Been out for one ride so far and everything look promising, only niggle is the shift from the 18T cog to the 21T cog.
Need to tweak that and to decide what to do regarding chain retention (test rode with the FD locked by the adjustment screws).


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

^ That would be cool!!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Is there a custom spider on that crank, which increases chainline?


----------



## cyberavner (Sep 27, 2011)

There is a sort of adapter plate with 8 holes (64mm BCD). The plate is bolted to the crank in the granny chainring spot and the 28T chainring is bolted to the plate with washers between the chainring and the plate. The washers move the chainring as close as possible to the 104mm BCD mounting tabs while leaving enough room for the chain, thus increasing the chaineline compared to bolting the 28T in the granny position.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Yes, I meant the plate.. kind of secondary spider. )


----------



## soloyo (May 30, 2012)

cyberavner said:


> Here is my take on a poor-man's XX1.
> A custom 11-42 10 speed cassette and an offset 28T chainring.
> Been out for one ride so far and everything look promising, only niggle is the shift from the 18T cog to the 21T cog.
> Need to tweak that and to decide what to do regarding chain retention (test rode with the FD locked by the adjustment screws).


Custom 11-42 cassette?????


----------



## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

All here's my custom 11-41t 10spd cassette...It's made 1x alot easier!

Info/pics here> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=838687


----------



## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

*SS to 1x10 conversion*

So long old friend... for now anyway-















One gear is good fun but it can be a gut-buster at times- literally. I would love to leave this bike alone and get another but limited funds made the decision easy. After a brief spend splurge @ Blue Sky I was on my way.

I truly have regressed into full on shade tree mode "Where the **** is my PBR?!". New hoops, WTB dual duty ($19.98 per _pair_ @ Blue Sky!) on a lowly XT hub, which suits me fine.









Zee shift lever and SLX derailleur-















Lots of plastic and stamped steel in these components but on the plus side they work flawlessly, even with crappy brake housing and missing one ferrule! The shifter wasn't shipped with a cable and housing (still gotta get used to this mail order chit) so I used what I had on hand, I planned on changing it asap but it works so well I'll probably just leave it till it bothers me.

Still rockin the Vee's -







And found my long lost Dominators!








New rubber up front and ready to roll-















Apologies for the double photo post- can't figure out how to undo it. Test voyage last night proved that I like gears.


----------



## Jnthomps08 (Mar 22, 2010)

J.B Weld:

Where do you live? Looks awesome!


----------



## cyberavner (Sep 27, 2011)

soloyo said:


> Custom 11-42 cassette?????


I took a Shimano 11-36 10 speed cassette (CS-HG62-10) ground out the rivets and separated the cogs.
I removed the 17T and 19T cogs with their spacers and replaced them with a Miche 18T cog (FW1712) and a 2.15mm cassette spacer.
I made the 42T cog by removing the center from an Brave aluminum BMX chainring, removing the teeth from an old cassette cog and bolting them to each other. 
































Avner.


----------



## soloyo (May 30, 2012)

Wow


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Jnthomps08 said:


> J.B Weld:
> 
> Where do you live? Looks awesome!


I think New Mexico.


----------



## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Jnthomps08 said:


> J.B Weld:
> 
> Where do you live? Looks awesome!


Yep, New Mexico. Same as old Mexico, only newer!


----------



## cyberavner (Sep 27, 2011)

Not a complete 1x9 setup, but a useful way for getting wider gear range for one, is this 11-36 cassette.
I made it by merging the lockring and top 3 cogs (11t, 13t, and 15t) from a Shimano 11-34 cassette with the bottom 6 cogs (18t, 21t, 24t, 28t, 32t and 36t) from a Shimano 12-36 29er cassette.


----------



## shane.anable (Apr 4, 2013)

*Dale 1x8*

This is my Cannondale trail 5 that I just converted to a 1x8. I used the N- Gear Jump Stop and an MRP S4 bash guard and in my 6 mile ride today I had no incidents so I'm extremely happy. I'm running a 32 in the front and I forgot what the back was so I'll get that and a better picture of my chainring setup later.

Pretty soon I'll be upgrading to an X7 group and doing 1x10 with a pg-1030 cassette

With that I was hoping to get some help, if I go for an 11-36 cassette, will it work with a short cage X7? And can I just slap that on to my current cassette? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Yes, short cage SRAM X7 10-speed should work with up to 36T cassette just fine.

A 10-speed HG-compatible mountain cassette is likely to replace a 8-speed one with no issues.


----------



## willembad (Feb 2, 2013)

> Zee shift lever and SLX derailleur


Do you ride with the clutch off and if so why? I have the same one and really like it engaged, completely eliminates chainslap.


----------



## shane.anable (Apr 4, 2013)

J. Random Psycho said:


> Yes, short cage SRAM X7 10-speed should work with up to 36T cassette just fine.


Thanks a lot, you're the man


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Ibis Tranny 1x9
MRP chain guide. 11-34 pg980 cassette with 32 tooth race face front ring. Used XT RD with XT 2013 brakes, normal deore shifter. Total weight 21.08 lbs.

Thanks to all for the assistance while I creeped around this thread for months.










Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

*New Build on an original Ripley Frame*

Just finished this one tonight.....

Original 2001 Ibis Ripley never really been ridden......

Built it up as a 1x9 like my other Ibis, Race Face Deus cranks, BBG with a Jump Stop, X-9 shifter and RD.


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

This is going to sound kinda newb but.. anyone one here running a 28-30t 64BCD chainring setup? Right now I'm running a 32t 104BCD with a Bashwich and it works great but I'm wondering about all the cross-chaining I'm putting it through. The trails I ride are pretty tight and I spend a lot of time in the upper half of the cassette, was thinking with a ring on the granny position, the chainline would be greatly improved. Any thoughts?


----------



## thecanoe (Jan 30, 2007)

1x9 Surly Moonlander. I removed the 36 outer and kept the 22 granny which is in the middle position. This bike needs low, not high, gears.


----------



## sslikesnake (Jan 12, 2011)

Here is my 1x9. It gets converted to SS duty often, but I do have another dedicated SS to fall back on, so this one has gears for now.


----------



## SQUIRRELSHOOTR (Jan 8, 2013)

I have a problem with my bike after going to 1x8. I just put on an n gear jump stop and recently before that I had the chain and cassette replaced(its a 2011 Giant Revel 0). At the time the chain was put on it had all 3 rings and the front derailleur. I then took off the front derailleur and the small gear ring. I took the bike to the lbs yesterday to get a few links of the chain removed to help with some really bad chain slap....I figured the chain could be shortened quite a bit because I'm only using the middle ring but the guy told he didn't really think it would help to remove any more links. I was out riding yesterday and went down a rocky area and the chain popped over the big ring and the rear derailleur ended up ramming into the cassette with the chain resting on the pedal/crank arm area. For now I am using the big rin as a bash ring. I don't really want to buy a $50 chain retention part but if there is nothing else that I can do to keep the chain from loosing tension and popping off over the big ring but if I have to I guess I will. Any suggestions?


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

Did you end up removing the links, the mechanic sounds like a dolt. If you're not using the big ring you most certainly can lose a bunch of links. A good 1x setup should have very little chainslap, if any.


----------



## SQUIRRELSHOOTR (Jan 8, 2013)

:madman:He removed one. I thought that it could be shortened a lot more but he seemed doubtful. Is there a certain amount like proportionally that should be removed?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Just follow the usual optimum chain length estimation procedure for derailer-based drivetrains. Wrap chain around middle ring and biggest cassette cog, bypassing derailer, bring ends together so that chain is completely under tension. Note the nearest link where you could connect the chain, add another full link to allow derailer to work properly in biggest cog.


----------



## SQUIRRELSHOOTR (Jan 8, 2013)

Ok thanks. I will look at doing that when I get it back Wednesday.


----------



## tealy (Mar 7, 2013)

okay


----------



## piru (Apr 1, 2009)

jm626 said:


> This is going to sound kinda newb but.. anyone one here running a 28-30t 64BCD chainring setup? Right now I'm running a 32t 104BCD with a Bashwich and it works great but I'm wondering about all the cross-chaining I'm putting it through. The trails I ride are pretty tight and I spend a lot of time in the upper half of the cassette, was thinking with a ring on the granny position, the chainline would be greatly improved. Any thoughts?


Yes,I do...with Race Face Turbine double crank arms + 30 Th specialites TA chainring + BBG bash guard + Blackspire Stinger modifiquer.





















if, the bbg stays much far from the small chaing ring. I have earring to mount a chaing ring of 36 with the filed teeth.


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

piru said:


> Yes,I do...with Race Face Turbine double crank arms + 30 Th specialites TA chainring + BBG bash guard + Blackspire Stinger modifiquer.
> 
> if, the bbg stays much far from the small chaing ring. I have earring to mount a chaing ring of 36 with the filed teeth.


Nice. Sounds embarrassing but I ended up replacing the 32t and inner bash guard with a 22t granny (left the outer BBG on) and it worked out great. Not a single chain-drop with the shortened chain, I was quite surprised. Have a 26t in the mail, should be good. Made my bike feel a lot less sluggish with the lighter gearing.

Post a full pic of your bike! Kona Unit?


----------



## piru (Apr 1, 2009)

jm626 said:


> Nice. Sounds embarrassing but I ended up replacing the 32t and inner bash guard with a 22t granny (left the outer BBG on) and it worked out great. Not a single chain-drop with the shortened chain, I was quite surprised. Have a 26t in the mail, should be good. Made my bike feel a lot less sluggish with the lighter gearing.
> 
> *Post a full pic of your bike! Kona Unit?*


Ok...Kona?....:nono:


----------



## toot334455 (Apr 4, 2013)

cyberavner said:


> Here is my take on a poor-man's XX1.
> A custom 11-42 10 speed cassette and an offset 28T chainring.
> Been out for one ride so far and everything look promising, only niggle is the shift from the 18T cog to the 21T cog.
> Need to tweak that and to decide what to do regarding chain retention (test rode with the FD locked by the adjustment screws).


how do you like that slx deraliuer?

and how did you get the extra large chainring on there?

Thats awesome and I would like a huge chainraing on the top like that


----------



## cyberavner (Sep 27, 2011)

I really like it. 
It massively reduced chainslap and I only dropped the chain twice so far after removing the FD and the Bionicon chain device.
I even decided to keep it after switching to a 9 speed cassette.

Chainring prep:






























v1 - attachment to the 36T cog:









v2 - attachment to a cut out cog:


----------



## #Cyclelife (Jul 21, 2009)

I just swapped out my Shimano 3x8 to a Sram 1x9 (x9 shifter/med cage derailleur) 36t 11-32 and MRP chain guide. Makes strong legs.


----------



## jizzim (Dec 1, 2006)

11-34 cassette with a 34t front. I'm using a K-Edge Cross Single Chain Catcher. It's obviously for a cross but works just fine IMO on the MTB. I just had to tilt it towards the ring a bit. The chain is not going anywhere. I did however get the chain to derail but it took a bit of force pulling on the chain laterally while turning the crank. It wasn't easy though. Should be fine on the trail..


----------



## BruceBrown (Jan 16, 2004)

I converted my RIP 9 triple crankset (23T/30/40) to a 1 x 9 using the Rotor Q Ring 34T singlespeed ring (XTR 11-34 rear cassette). Removed the 160g XT front derailleur, 100g SRAM X.7 twist grip shifter, Rotor Q 23T granny ring, and the custom 30/40T ring combo (41g/66g). Replaced with the Rohloff 66g Chain Guide and the Rotor Q Ring (55g).



Absolutely no rub in the largest or smallest rear cog!!!



If I get out the drill press, I could shave the 66g chain guide down to something like this (Jeff Jones tuning)...



But that may or may not happen.

Bike in its current configuration after losing 3/4's of a pound...



27.27 pounds for the size XL RIP 9


----------



## Hill´s (May 19, 2009)

Waiting for a new 28 t ring (26t on the picture) and 32t BBG

My trails are only uphills and downhills, 28 t are more than enough for me.

Yes, I have to file down that bolt


----------



## Map204 (May 29, 2012)

Very creative. bravo


----------



## goalieman24 (Jan 6, 2012)

Trek Mamba
XT crank
XT Mid-cage RD
BBG guards
e.13 ring


----------



## robc in wi (Sep 6, 2008)

Here are some pics of my finally completed 1X9 rig.







FR-207 frameset "26
Crest Rims/Circus Monkey HDW3 hubs/Sapim Race spokes
X-9 Grip shifter/short cage rear
SRAM 990 11-34
SLX crank
Hylix 660 flat bar
Exotic seat post
Woodman seat post clamp
Hygia Usagi brakeset
Rockshox 2011 Sid RL tapered (Ebay bargain)
CB eggbeaters
KMC SL-9 chain
Conti Race King Sport tubeless
Bashwich
Blackspire Mono Veloce 32t ring
Weighs in at about 20 lbs, will try to get a exact weight.


----------



## sloonz (Apr 15, 2012)

*Origin 8 Chain Guide Cheap on Amazon*

The Origin 8 chain guide is only $26 on Amazon right now. I just ordered one for my son's 26er 1x9 build!

Amazon.com: Origin8 Ultim8 Chain Guide - Clamp Mount, 31.8/34.9mm, Black: Sports & Outdoors


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Superstar components have this one too, under their own brand of course. I once installed it on a Giant Anthem 29er, had to do considerable cutting, drilling and filing to avoid shock interference. As the result, it lost the ability to be adjusted for chainline. Turned out good otherwise.


----------



## paleh0rse (Jun 20, 2011)

22.5 lbs of 29er goodness...

FRAME: 2013 XMI IP-057, 17.5", BSA, UD Carbon
FORK: RockShox 29er SID World Cup (100mm travel, 15mm Maxle Lite)
HANDLEBAR: Easton Haven Carbon, 711mm, Low Rise (20mm), 31.8mm, 9deg bend, 5deg upsweep
GRIPS: Oury Lock-on Grips (red)
STEM: FSA OS99 CSI Carbon, 90mm, +/- 6 deg, 31.8mm clamp, Ti hardware
HEADSET: NECO (1/18" to 1.5")
BRAKES:
--Front: Avid Elixir 5 w/185mm
--Rear: Avid Elixir CR Mag w/160mm
SHIFTERS: 
--Left: None
--Right (rear): 2011 SRAM XO Carbon 9-spd Trigger w/ SRAM Matchmaker.
CRANKSET: 
--FSA Pro Team Carbon ATB 175mm (set up 1x9)
--Blackspire Mono Veloce 32T Chainring (unramped, black)
--BBG 32T Bashguard (red)
BOTTOM BRACKET: FSA Mega EXO (70/68mm)
CHAINGUIDE: none... yet.
PEDALS: VP Components VP-001, red)
FRONT DERAILLEUR: None
REAR DERAILLEUR: SRAM X.9, Short cage
CASSETTE: SRAM PG-990, 11/34T, 9-spd
CHAIN: SRAM PC991 9-speed
SADDLE: WTB Rocket V Pro
SEATPOST: XMI Carbon IP-SP4, UD
TIRES:
--Front: Ikon
--Rear: Rocket Ron
WHEELSET: 
--Rims: Stans Arch, 29", 32H
--Front Hub: Hadley Disc ISO, 32H, 15mm QR, Red (H600100 XC Type), Shimano M988 XTR 142mm Skewer
--Rear Hub: Hadley Black SDH Disc, 32H, 142mm x 12mm Thru-Axle, 72 POE, Red (H600135)


----------



## blasmoni (Jul 1, 2013)

This is my 1994 Cannondale Delta V1000 1x9 front 30T cassette 11/34, crankset xt, homemade chain












guide and gripshift Sram.


----------



## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

For historical (hysterical?) purposes, here's a close-up of the adaptation I made (based on other peoples' experience) to run 10 speed Zee derailleur on a 1x9 setup with a SRAM shifter. Very simple, very effective.


----------



## Map204 (May 29, 2012)

wv_bob said:


> For historical (hysterical?) purposes, here's a close-up of the adaptation I made (based on other peoples' experience) to run 10 speed Zee derailleur on a 1x9 setup with a SRAM shifter. Very simple, very effective.


Any resources or details you could give us for this? I would LOVE to be able to do what you did, but I've never seen or heard anyone do this.


----------



## cyberavner (Sep 27, 2011)

Map204,
look in this thread:
http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...atability-9-speed-shimano-systems-646014.html


----------



## FeedTheWolf (Jun 15, 2013)

*2010 Rockhopper SL Expert*

Just recently set up my Rockhopper 1x9, haven't even taken it for a ride yet other than in circles to test it out a bit.



















Upgrades from stock:

Rockshox Reba fork
Shimano XT wheelset
Specialized The Captain Control Armadillo Elite (tubeless)
Shimano XT brakes
WTB Rocket V Pro saddle
Raceface Strafe grips
Shimano SPD pedals
Hope 32T SS chainring
BBG bashguard (32T size)
Hope low clamp chain guide

Can't wait to take it out on a ride! I also did the XT derailleur "overhaul" that's on Park Tool's website where you switch the spring to a higher tension setting. Oh, and I took 3 links out of my chain. Bam.


----------



## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

This is a great looking lineup of bikes

Trail Tech: Single-chainring frame design


----------



## Brig (Aug 18, 2012)

*My 1X TransAM*

Here's mine, 
Long cage X9 RD. MRP Mini G2 steel Guide. Just added the Race Face narrow wide chainring 32t. Love it! 
12-36 in the rear.

I know, I need to lengthen the chain, I shortened it before I got the guide.

Sorry It's a 1x10, hope I don't get flamed. :madmax:


----------



## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

Anyone know of an "alternating thickness" 28t 64/104 PCD chainring.....


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

here is a 30t

104 BCD Chainrings | wolftoothcycling.com


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

x9 10 speed shifter, x9 type 2 rear derailleur, KMC chain and Raceface wide narrow 36 tooth chainring. no chain guides. this is my project for this weekend.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Biketuna, IMHO you will need an upper chain cage anyway.


----------



## StumpyandhisBike (Jun 26, 2012)

J. Random - In my short experience with my 1x drivetrain I would have to disagree as I have put together basically the same setup on my bike but with shimano components also with no chain guide.

Raceface NW 36t
Shimano HG81 cassette + General Lee
SLX shadow+ rear derailure
ZEE shifter
KMC chain

Only one ride so far but it was over a rough 8 mile XC race. The narrow wide and clutch derailure never dropped a chain. Obviously much more ride testing is needed but in that one ride I am sold on no guide. It's absolutely silent and after coming off of having a bash and roller on my 2x9 it nice not hearing myself pedal.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

I know what you mean, the sound of chain touching a cage when pedaling is horrible indeed. But there are cages that don't touch the chain in both lowest and highest gears. The plastic ones you can setup with spacers and easily file down whatever tiny interference with moving chain there could remain.


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

I'll let you know if it works without the chain guide. I have an upper chain guide and lower on standby.


----------



## jm626 (Nov 12, 2012)

I'm having a 1x technical issue. I had a 32t with BBG bashwich setup and didn't drop the chain once. However, I found for the trails I ride (not to mention heavy Nevegal tires) the 32 was too much for me. If money wasn't an issue I would've gone to 10-spd 11-36 Shadow+ and called it a day but alas, I opted to remove the inner guard and replace it with a 26t Shimano granny. I'd cut up my old derailleur but it's a top-swing, bottom-pull and doesn't get low enough. Anyone know of a granny-compatible option I can run? TIA

P.S. is there such a thing as a 9-spd half-link? If I could shorten the chain a tad it would definitely help.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

On the guide part that's tough question. Will a Jump Stop (with some clamp cutting) fit that low on your frame? And for the right side retention try finding a Truvativ Trials bashring that they once supplied on Holzfeller Trials cranksets. Or it can me custom made.

As for the multispeed half links, I think there are none. But why not shorten the chain a whole 1" link?


----------



## JSumner13 (Apr 26, 2006)

My Trek Superfly 100, 1x10 setup...


----------



## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

First ride sunday with Type 2 and raceface wide-narrow chainring. No chain guide up front. No chain drops and super quiet ride.


----------



## kevbeer (Mar 18, 2013)

*questions questions*

Ok, so I am stuck here. I am sure you guys can collectively help me decide what to do.

I have a used '09 Hardrock Disc 26er shimano 3x7 which I bought used about 10 months ago. The rear derailleur (Shimano Altus) is wobbly due to slop at its mount and this is causing some, if not all, of failure to shift and un-initiated shifts issues I have been having no matter how I tweak the adjustments. I have looked to replace the Altus with another Altus however the Altus is a low-grade (crap) RD and so moving up to a better RD seems logical. NOW, I would like to go 1x9, but not yet. So my new RD I want to be a 9 speed so as to make possible a 1x9 upgrade in the future (new 11-34T cassette plus whatever else is required.) Let me say at this time that the bike (hardrock) has stock integral Shimano 7 speed rear shifter+brake. SO, seems the logical solution is the "Shimano RD-M662 SLX 9-Speed Rear Derailleur" which I can immediately limit out 2 shifts of and use with my existing shifter AND at later time upgrade shifter, cassette, and if-needed the chain--to go 1x9. However, there is a good probability I will never go 1x9...so keep that in mind. If I was sure I would be going 1x9 eventually, I would favor to put in an SRAM X7 RD, based on the cable displacement per gear being more (better precision of RD displacement) but that would require immediate replacement of the shifter and add a separate break.

Now, my questions:

1. Is Shimano RD-M662 SLX 9-Speed Rear Derailleur as or close to as good as an SRAM X7 9-speed RD. By "good" I mean crisp shifting and frequency of adjustment necessary.

2. Does the 1:1 shift ratio of SRAM x7 mean it moves ~2x as much cable length per shift over shimano slx?

3. Is there an integral 9 speed SRAM x7 compatible shifter WITH integral brake? Please suggest if so. If not, please suggest best value separate cheap brake for rear brake.

4. What is the difference between my stock chain (for my 3x7) and a shimano 9 speed chain and/or sram 9 speed chain?

Thanks everyone. Learned a lot from your set ups on this thread. I will probably come back with questions regarding what 1 speed crankset to go with, but as you probably picked up I don't know if I will ever even go 1x9 and if I do at first I will just *lock the FD on mid gear of 32T.

Thanks again!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Hi kevbeer,


1. 9 speed SRAM shifts out of the box better than 9 speed Shimano, even the Shadow models. With years of use it goes worse though. Shimano RDs are better designed for the long run, IMHO.

2. Yes. This redundancy is the main reason why 9-speed SRAM shifts better.

3. None that I know of. But because your rear brake is either a V or a cable actuated disc, any old V-brake lever will do. Such as Shimano Deore or Avid FR-5. Whatever you find cheaper.

4. Width. You will need a 9-speed chain for 9-speed cassette.


Bear in mind that causes of poor rear shifting in the order of decreasing importance are these:

1. Cable/housing friction (easily 90% of all trouble is here).
2. Shifter quality (another say 9%).
3. RD quality (1%?)

Your RD has that housing loop which adds to friction.

But my main message is, don't stay with 1x7 or 1x8 if you want a good indexed shifting system. Unfortunately there are no good shifters in production for those standards. The focus of modern quality shifters is at 9 and especially 10 speed.


(I'd surely love to have a Saint level 3-speed wide range cassette, RD and shifter).


----------



## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

I wouldn't get hung up on SRAM vs. Shimano. I have both and both shift great. 

7 speed cassettes have wider spacing between gears and take a wider chain. I don't know if a 7 speed chain will fit through the cage of a nine speed derailleur. 

And I don't think a 9 speed cassette will fit on your 7 speed hub. So you will need a new rear wheel.


----------



## kevbeer (Mar 18, 2013)

Right on man thanks. I replaced the rd cable housings once which solved the shifting issues for maybe 3 rides then started happening again. So I replaced mid and rear sections of housing again but now it has different shifting problems. The altus wobble seems like it at minimum is adding to the problem. In anycase I agree moving away from 7 speed tech is a must. I think I am just going to get slx rd and call it a day.


----------



## kevbeer (Mar 18, 2013)

Smilin steve I will verify chain fits in cage or get new chain too or shim cage hehe


----------



## Skoezie (Apr 11, 2006)

Used to ride 1x10 with an XT der. and shifter, but had to have one of those new SRAM gripshifters. Found a cheap X9 der with short cage to complete it. Simple chainguide from Superstar Components and it al works like a charm. Front steel ring is a 33t from On-One.

Stil have a XX1 or X01 crank on the wishlist


----------



## Kmb2erl3dn (Aug 14, 2013)

It's the wave of the future


----------



## fbabrove (Nov 9, 2011)

*Jamis Dragon 29er Sport*

1x9 with 34T RaceFace SS Narrow/Wide chainring (perfect, no drops so far).


----------



## kendal (Mar 25, 2008)

1x9 650b Blur xc, XO Shifter, xx1 34t crank.


----------



## dharel1705 (May 21, 2012)

32T Race Face Narrow/Wide
SRAM X9 Long Cage Derailleur
SRAM PG 970 11-34 9 Speed Cassette
SRAM PC 971 Chain


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

So, those narrow-wide rings are just what the good doctor ordered? A local guy makes them on CNC and in various anodized colors, so far his customers seem to be happy; personally I'm yet to ride one (still having enough fun on SS).


----------



## dharel1705 (May 21, 2012)

J. Random Psycho said:


> So, those narrow-wide rings are just what the good doctor ordered? A local guy makes them on CNC and in various anodized colors, so far his customers seem to be happy; personally I'm yet to ride one (still having enough fun on SS).


The more I thought about and paid attention to my gear selection when I'm riding, the more the notion of a 1x9 setup made sense. I didn't want to mess with chain guides or bash rings, so the narrow-wide was the perfect choice. There are several companies making them. Race Face and Wolftooth seem to be pretty much the same design, with the Race Face rings being cheaper. One can also use discount codes, like I did, from various online stores to save a few bucks on the ring. At some point, I'll switch to a short cage rear derailleur, but for now this config will work. Unfortunately, I won't be able to get my 1st ride on the new setup in until Saturday or Sunday.


----------



## On1 (Oct 12, 2013)

Hi guys,

I am interested in turning my Haro Ally SS, 16" frame into a 1x8 or 1x9. but I do not know how to do this and the local bike shop has said it was not possible. But I love the frame on my Ally, I have kept this bike since I bought in in 08. I've owned several bikes (Marin Rocky Ridge, SE Stout 29er, GT Outpost) and they did not inspire the same confidence, fun, response and overall feel of the Ally. The others have been sold or stolen. My Ally is mostly stock and ride mostly hard pack, single trails, down hill. I do like to jump too.

I feel I have moved up from entry level rider and am doing more technical trails with more difficult climbs and I NEED GEARS!!! and a FRONT SUSPENSION FORK What would you recommend? Trying to stay within a reasonable budget. I was also looking at a specialized carve expert if the cost of doing these upgrades to my Ally is too much.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

On1, take a look at this thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/haro-ally-ss-convert-1x8-599049.html

From what I gather, dropouts are vertical on that frame, and there's a part that takes the place of derailer hanger. This part has no eye for the derailer proper, on SS it just serves as a shim. However a replacement can be either bought or machined such that it does support derailer attachment.

For chain retention in front, consider one of those narrow-wide tooth chanirings.


----------



## sasu (Nov 16, 2013)

Kona Honzo, just built it on a 2013 XL frame.

Running a 36T 1x9 and very happy with it.










e*thirteen retention device, Truvativ Descendant crankset, XT medium cage derailleur (should have bought a short cage), XT shifters. Works like a dream and oh the crunching sound when I pedal... ut:

EDIT: Please note the upper chain guide is incorrectly installed in this photo. The chain is supposed to go THROUGH the chain guide, not under it.



















I also have a new Cannondale F29 AL1 with 2x10, but I only use the 38T chainring, so I should switch that bike to 1x10 or 1x9, too.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

sasu said:


> Works like a dream and oh the crunching sound when I pedal... ut:


Late night assembly? ^_^


----------



## sasu (Nov 16, 2013)

Did I do something wrong? Never installed a chain guide before so everything is possible.

EDIT: Thanks, corrected the alignment of the upper guide.


----------



## grisha (Oct 28, 2007)

3d printed chain guide







Weight 16g







Want to know more?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

grisha,

this is your second appearance in this thread and I still remember the 1st version of that guide. I see you have shed lots of weight off it since. The material seems to be the same?


----------



## grisha (Oct 28, 2007)

Yes, it is the same nylon plastic. First version is still alive, but I've decided to try to make minimal weight design.


----------



## Map204 (May 29, 2012)

> Want to know more?


Well yeah.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapadapabapadoo-op


----------



## grisha (Oct 28, 2007)

It is printed with selective laser sintering from nylon powder. 
I've used it for about a month now, mostly in muddy conditions. Here is how it looks right now:
























As it was unpainted it got dirty very quickly. Material is porous and absorbs mud very well. I'm going to paint it, this will fill the surface pores and will help to keep it clean.

It is designed for 32-36t chainring, 48-51 mm chainline. Seattube mount clamp is made for 31.8 mm tube, but I'm going to add other common sizes soon.

Right now I'm making small web page about it, so anyone who wants can print his own copy of this chain guide: Ultralight Chain Guide - Carrot Tread

As a bonus, there is a complete story of my first 3d printed chain guide: Chainguide Prototypes, part 1 - Carrot Tread


----------



## jonny boy (Mar 11, 2004)

I like the simplicity of a 1x9 setup. The problem is, here in the Rocky Mtns I use my smallest 22x34 gear, quite a bit.

Playing with the gear calculator on Sheldon Brown's website, I bet I could lose 1 gear and still maintain. What could work is a 28 tooth chainring up front, and a 36 tooth cassette. I currently run a Truvativ triple cransket (nothing direct mount about it) and a SRAM 990 11-34 cassette. I've read many of these threads but I still don't see the best option for me jumping out - not many 36 tooth cassettes and the one Shimano HG can damage hubs? I guess I understand the companies like SRAM don't want to impact their 10 and 11 speed sales. Meantime, I guess I can always experiment with NOT shifting down to my smallest gears on some of my local rides, see how that goes.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

You're not likely to damage a decent hub's engagement mechanism with a 28-36 gear. Perhaps they meant mangling HG splines on aluminum freehub with a spiderless cassette such as 9 speed Deore: this *is* possible in that gear. If you want an affordable 36T cassette in 1x9, you're basically limited to that boat anchor Deore.

Check out mid-range Shimano 1x10 components. Zee derailer and shifter, SLX cassette.

What model is your Truvativ crankset? If it's AKA or X.9, or X.0, then it will be a very elegant solution running a 28T in front. But if it's a 64/104 BCD non-removable spider such as Stylo, X.7 or FireX, running a 28T is going to be ugly (likely doable but I advice not going that route now that we have a choice).


----------



## jonny boy (Mar 11, 2004)

J. Random Psycho said:


> What model is your Truvativ crankset? If it's AKA or X.9, or X.0, then it will be a very elegant solution running a 28T in front. But if it's a 64/104 BCD non-removable spider such as Stylo, X.7 or FireX, running a 28T is going to be ugly (likely doable but I advice not going that route now that we have a choice).


My mistake, I forgot I replaced the Truvativ with a similar LX crankset (yes LX, before SLX, probably a 2011 model?). I think you are right I would have to upgrade to 10 speed, as the best path, to achieve what I want to do, probably including a crankset as well. Maybe I will go that route, if I continue to ride my 2007 Stumpjumper a few more years. I see 1x11 as one of the best upgrades to a bike but not many bikes shipping with it yet, maybe in a couple years it will be more the standard. Thanks.


----------



## shupack (Nov 28, 2012)

my guide, a reflector clamp, and a corner of a plastic cutting board. both free!:









works great with a standard narrow/narrow  front chainring and an old-school medium cage der.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

shupack said:


> my guide, a reflector clamp, and a corner of a plastic cutting board. both free!
> works great with a standard narrow/narrow  front chainring and an old-school medium cage der.


That's my next step if the narrow wide doesn't arrive today...


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

shupack said:


> my guide, a reflector clamp, and a corner of a plastic cutting board. both free!:
> 
> View attachment 855282
> 
> ...


And old skool xtr cranks too! I'm running those on my single speed, is that a 4 or 5 arm spider?


----------



## shupack (Nov 28, 2012)

it was a 5 bolt spider, I found an old spot SS ring with better condition cranks for $50, so I traded up 

the spider is still at the used parts store if you're looking for one, I can buy it back.


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

shupack said:


> it was a 5 bolt spider, I found an old spot SS ring with better condition cranks for $50, so I traded up
> 
> the spider is still at the used parts store if you're looking for one, I can buy it back.


Thanks, but no thanks. What I need is another Spot ring as I couldn't find any at the time when mine wore out! Thus having to use the multi-ring spider.


----------



## shupack (Nov 28, 2012)

I've been watching ebay for a while, nothing... but absolute black told me this summer they'd have one ready last month, so maybe by spring?

Sram Spiderless


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

shupack said:


> I've been watching ebay for a while, nothing... but absolute black told me this summer they'd have one ready last month, so maybe by spring?
> 
> Sram Spiderless


Yeah doesn't look like they have the 950 series tho, or I didn't see it anyway. I do remember at one point seeing another outfit(??) making some splined rings for them but pricey and had already got the spider setup. And the 104 rings are all over the place and pretty inexpensive as you know. Would be cool to get the cleaner look again with a spiderless (now called direct mount?) but I may put my e13/Hive cranks on my SS and be moving these over to put a spare frame together as a back up/loaner ss for rider friends interested in trying it out.


----------



## sasu (Nov 16, 2013)

J. Random Psycho said:


> Late night assembly? ^_^


Now I finally got it! The chain is supposed to be threaded THROUGH the upper guide. Silly me for not realizing that earlier.

Oh, at least I have learned to pedal in the correct direction... :arf:


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Ouch. Sorry for not telling it explicitly to you.. well, fckups just happen; I, for example, seem to be unable to avoid them with any amount of practice. All it takes is a slip of attention, and that is a thing contested upon these days.


----------



## Deer_Dodger (Jun 15, 2011)

e13 narrow wide 34t chainring
XT 11-34 cassette
Saint short cage rear mech

Still having slight chain alignment issues when on my largest rear. e13 chainring set to its closest setting, only one spacer on my drive side crank and just the one 2.5mm spacer on the drive side of the Saint BB as per the Shimano instructions. I'm guessing I'll have to ditch the 2.5mm spacer.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## chrismt (Feb 2, 2014)

Cannondale Jekyll 600 All Mountain Frame, 5" Travel BBG Bashwich up front with 32t chain ring.. No need for chain guide, no dropped chains yet! 
XT rear derailleur, and deore shifter. (both are old and then pivots are loose on derailleur. Looking to upgrade to Saint derailleur/shifter, or go the sram x9 route depending on what I can find cheaper


----------



## Hobine (Jun 16, 2004)

Here's my set up. X9 non- clutch RD, Sram 990 cassette modded to 11-38, XX1 crank, NSB direct mount 28t ring and an MRP AMG bash / retainer thing. Works flawless.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

If the 29er bug bites me I take Honzo too.. :thumbsup:


----------



## sagitt77 (Oct 26, 2010)

I'm thinking about 1x9 drivetrain, to. I found one producer in Poland but production will start at the half of the year: Strona g?ówna - HCC Components


----------



## the rock (Feb 21, 2008)

1x9 setup
11-38t cassette with mtb tool cog, I swaped the 13 an 15 t cogs with a 14t shimano cog on my sram 990 cassette. Then I grinded the 11t cog to fit on the 14t cog to maintain the proper distance between all the sprocket. I use a 32t blackspire n/w chainring. I'll just have to put a rear 10 speed shimano derailleur with a clutch on my 9 speed sram xo shifter!


----------



## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

Hi "the rock", did you get a chance to ride with this mtb tool cog ? I'm looking for a chip large cog for 9 speed.

Thanks


----------



## jfb (Feb 8, 2005)

Hi there. I am from Belgium in Europe. Here is my 1x9 frankentransmission:
RF NW 32T chainring
Shimano XT 11-34 cassette with a Specialites TA 40T cog.
I had to customize a little bit the cassette: I removed the 11-13-15 t cogs and replaced them by some 12 & 14 t cogs. I also had to to file down two plots at the rear of the cassette to adjust correctly the 40 t cog (it would not be necessary with a Sram cassette I think).
Didn't have to adjust the chain lenght nor the b-screw of my old xtr (long cage but not shadow type) derailleur.
I know have a 12/14/17/20/23/26/30/34/40 cassette that works very smoothly. Incredible how easy it's been and how good it works.


----------



## FeedTheWolf (Jun 15, 2013)

*2010 Rockhopper SL Expert 1x10*

Posted on here before but I've done some upgrades.

2010 Rockhopper SL Expert 1x10

Upgrades:

Raceface grips
WTB Rocket V saddle
Shimano SPD pedals
Shimano XT brakes
Specialized The Captain Control Armadillo Elite tires (tubeless)
XT wheelset w/American Classic valves
Hope 32T aluminum chainring w/BBG bashguard
Hope chainguide
Shimano XT 10sp chain
XT 10sp cassette
XT shadow+ 10sp derailluer
XT shifter
Jagwire red cable housing
Rockshox Reba SL fork

Things I want to upgrade still:

Carbon seatpost
Carbon handlebar
lighter cranks/BB
lighter pedals
Ice tech pads and rotors

Weighs just about 25 lbs, I love it!


----------



## shupack (Nov 28, 2012)

Easton EC70 Zero 400mm 30.9 White Logo Seatpost | Easton | Brand | www.PricePoint.com

$30, just got mine. Sweet post. Bars on sale too.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Looks legit! I'd fine tune the cockpit and leave it be.


----------



## irocss85 (Aug 10, 2009)

Is this a 29r? 

You remember what kind of how guide that is? Like a model? I'm goin to search it. Looks light,simple, and effective.

How much diff goin to tubeless?
2010 Rockhopper SL Expert 1x10

Specialized The Captain Control Armadillo Elite tires (tubeless)
XT wheelset w/American Classic valves

Hope chainguide


----------



## FeedTheWolf (Jun 15, 2013)

irocss85 said:


> Is this a 29r?
> 
> You remember what kind of how guide that is? Like a model? I'm goin to search it. Looks light,simple, and effective.
> 
> ...


It's a 26er. And... I bought the guide about a year ago but as far as I know Hope might only make the one kind so it shouldn't be hard to find. It was about $66 when I bought it on Ebay. It's a nice guide but make sure you get it close enough to the chain where it can't jump off and get jammed between the chainring and the guide because I had that problem at first.

Tubeless was easy for me because I got tubeless wheels so I didn't have to use any rim tape or anything like that. I got the XT wheelset for about $250 from Ebay, and the valves were $15. The tires were tubeless ready and have a tight bead so I just put them on the wheel with the valves on there and squirted the sealant in there and spun it around and inflated the tire: easy.


----------



## irocss85 (Aug 10, 2009)

Thanks for the reply. But iw as wondering about the diff you might have noticed while riding after the tubeless conversion? 

I got some tubeless rims already for my 26er. Just waiting for the valves to come in. 

Goin to start figuring out what wheels to get for my 29er though.


----------



## FeedTheWolf (Jun 15, 2013)

J. Random Psycho said:


> Looks legit! I'd fine tune the cockpit and leave it be.


It is a great bike but I also want to upgrade the cranks because I am embarrassed to have that cruddy crankset on my bike with all the other bling on it. My friend who works at a bike shop said I could save a good bit of weight if I upgrade the cranks and BB.

Eventually I think I will bling it out more with small details like black bashguard with red chainring bolts, red water bottle cage bolts, and maybe a brown Brooks saddle and red seatpost clamp to give it some more character in addition to the other upgrades I want to do. I wanted to use a gold Ti KMC X10 SL chain but Shimano recommends the dyna-sys components together because they "work better" together supposedly and I didn't want to chance it.


----------



## FeedTheWolf (Jun 15, 2013)

irocss85 said:


> Thanks for the reply. But iw as wondering about the diff you might have noticed while riding after the tubeless conversion?
> 
> I got some tubeless rims already for my 26er. Just waiting for the valves to come in.
> 
> Goin to start figuring out what wheels to get for my 29er though.


Oh, not too sure about 29er wheels, but definitely get something that is tubeless ready so you don't have to convert it or whatever.

And as far as the difference while riding it definitely felt lighter after that, love it!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

FeedTheWolf,

well.. there's no perfect crankset as far as I know. XTR are surely nice, but they have been getting ugly looks lately. A 970 still looks good though (IMHO). I'd go with Truvativ X9 (or AKA if you can find it cheap): it's heavier than XTR and is less convenient with crank attachment than HT2 (but similar to 970) but it has removable spider which is perfect for 1xN. With a narrow-wide ring you could probably drop the need for upper chain cage. And it would look super clean without spider/bolts/cage. And at X0 level you can even beat XTR weight, but at the cost of going carbon (watch out for obstacle strikes) and the look would be less stealth.


----------



## FeedTheWolf (Jun 15, 2013)

J. Random Psycho,

I was looking at XTR and X9. What do you think of XT? Also what is AKA?


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

AKA is very similar to X9, I don't know what's the difference between them. They even look the same. But AKA was cheaper and has been put off production. Maybe one of those marketing games the industry loves to play on us.

I ride an AKA on my do-all (dirt/urban) SS for 1.5 years now, no complaints.. not the laterally stiffest crankset around but does the job -- and in the looks department, with ring installed spiderless, it combines the best of MTB and BMX cranksets.


XT is nice of course, but crank arms + shaft weigh about the same as SLX. Can't go wrong with either for 1xN if your front ring is 30T or bigger. For me the major letdown of most Shimano cranksets is the non-removable spider but that's mostly because I run 28-14 on SS, and not because of looks. Though I was spoiled early on in my 1xN career with a Middleburn RS7 Uno crankset. )


----------



## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

FeedTheWolf said:


> J. Random Psycho,
> 
> I was looking at XTR and X9. What do you think of XT? Also what is AKA?


The X9 with a direct mount ring will look something like this.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

That's a last generation Blur XCc before they abandoned it for 27.5" heresies?


----------



## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

J. Random Psycho said:


> That's a last generation Blur XCc before they abandoned it for 27.5" heresies?


Yes it is.


----------



## FeedTheWolf (Jun 15, 2013)

Thanks for the advice, J Random.


----------



## FeedTheWolf (Jun 15, 2013)

Hey, sorry for posting again. I did a few key upgrades to my baby and she is about 24 pounds now.

I added:
Easton EC70 low riser bar
Thomson X4 Elite stem with Ti bolts
Thomson Elite seatpost
Shimano XT crankset with Ti chain ring bolts
Ice Tech pads and Ice Tech XTR rotors
Specialized Ground Control 2.2 front, Fast Trak Control 2.2 rear, both tubeless


----------



## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

*1x9 setup...with NW*

:thumbsup:Works Great!


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Have you tried it without lower roller? (Too bad all Shadow+ and Type 2 derailers are for 10 speed, unless one runs a Shadow+ with 9 speed SRAM shifter.)


----------



## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

*Yep*



J. Random Psycho said:


> Have you tried it without lower roller? (Too bad all Shadow+ and Type 2 derailers are for 10 speed, unless one runs a Shadow+ with 9 speed SRAM shifter.)


Yep I tried, it worked, but on moody trail the rear derailleur is tossed. The lower roller just keeping the chain tight.
I know about the SRAM shifter with Shadow+ combination, that is my next upgrade.


----------



## Thelonerider (Sep 24, 2010)

*chainguard question*

These bikes are all pretty awesome. But i have a chainguard question.

I ran my 90's Airborne hardtail with a 1x8 (didn't have a 9-speed cassette) for a few years before I converted it to ss. I had a 34 or 32 on the front. No outer or inner chainguard. The chain never came off, and I'm a chubby guy, as was riding some steep stuff at the time.

So... are these guards really necessary? I ask because I may convert my current 3x9 hardtail and don't want to muck it up too badly in case my results witht he Airborne were a fluke.

- Elvis


----------



## lokomonkey (Jun 18, 2005)

all you need is a bash guard



Thelonerider said:


> These bikes are all pretty awesome. But i have a chainguard question.
> 
> I ran my 90's Airborne hardtail with a 1x8 (didn't have a 9-speed cassette) for a few years before I converted it to ss. I had a 34 or 32 on the front. No outer or inner chainguard. The chain never came off, and I'm a chubby guy, as was riding some steep stuff at the time.
> 
> ...


----------



## Thelonerider (Sep 24, 2010)

lokomonkey said:


> all you need is a bash guard


Thanks. I was hoping that.

- Brian


----------



## scottg07 (Jun 21, 2006)

Thelonerider said:


> Thanks. I was hoping that.
> 
> - Brian


If you aren't dropping the chain you don't. Kinda depends on the terrain you ride. Rocky rough downhills cause it a lot.


----------



## Ross1200 (Mar 27, 2014)

Here's my 1x9. Saint cranks with a raceface NW 32t chainring.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Thelonerider (Sep 24, 2010)

scottg07 said:


> If you aren't dropping the chain you don't...


Then i should be good if I do it to my other bike. I'm taking baby steps I removed the big ring so it's a 2x9 for now...


----------



## kevbeer (Mar 18, 2013)

I have camber comp fsr 26er with 9speed 11-34t cassette in back. i am looking to go1x9 with 11-40t in back. What is the cheapest drop in 40t cog? I am not looking to drill holes.


----------



## Ross1200 (Mar 27, 2014)

On a 9 speed. Unsure how to go about that. You would need to find a cassette that you can remove a single sprocket. Probably the 17t. I'm using 1x10 now with a one up 42t. Check ebay often you can find wolftooth, one up and e13 ring quite cheap on there. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kevbeer (Mar 18, 2013)

I have a cassette that I believe I can remove a single sprocket. These e13 and oneup and wolftooth all appear to say 10 speed. Can it also be used with 9 speed?


----------



## Ross1200 (Mar 27, 2014)

I don't see why not. My crankset said 10spd and I used it 1x9 for ages before switching.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ross1200 (Mar 27, 2014)

I would think a 9spd chain will work ok. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kneecap (Dec 20, 2003)

Id be real interested if that works. I was under the impression that 10 sp. cassettes had a closer distance between each ring compared to a 9 sp. So, you'd have to have a 10 sp. shifter as well?
Then of course that wouldn't be a 1X9 anymore.


----------



## kevbeer (Mar 18, 2013)

as I understand it, it should work. essentially I will remove some middle cog from the cassette to make room for adding the 40t cog. Some custom shim might be required to back the 40t off the (existing) 34t, but I think that shim might be included with some of these 40t gears.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

kneecap said:


> Then of course that wouldn't be a 1X9 anymore.


Let's just pretend this thread is called 1xN and is dedicated to any single front ring, rear derailer based, chain drivetrains.


----------



## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

There is a discussion about using a Absolute Black 40T ring with a 9 speed cassette that starts with this post:

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...components-thread-850712-32.html#post11201942


----------



## Bordershy (Jan 29, 2004)

*My 1X9*

[AT

28T granny, 36-12 9sp cassette, Saint SS derailleur, Jump Stop & Stinger chain guide + Blackspire Granny God Bash Ring.

Can substitute a 26T ring for long climbing days.

TACH=CONFIG]945834[/ATTACH]


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Bordershy, nice! What I like the best there is that no exotic parts are used.


----------



## Bordershy (Jan 29, 2004)

The Blackspire GrannyGod was a tough find. I did put a double bend in the stinger bracket to put the chain in the grove of the roller.

I would love to build a 40-11 9sp cassette if it wasn't such a pain money wise.


----------



## kneecap (Dec 20, 2003)

bordershy, what cassette did you use for your conversion?


----------



## Bordershy (Jan 29, 2004)

Hg-61 36-12


----------



## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

So I currently have a 2x9 setup. I don't need my highest gears. If I went absolute black 26t 64bcd chain ring. What would I need out back? I currently have a x7 with 11-34 cassette. I was looking to go 1x10 but 1x9 would work fine. If I can get a new cassette and knock the bottom ring off and use a different lock nut awesome. This thread is huge so sorry if this is repeated.


----------



## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

TalMiz said:


> Yep I tried, it worked, but on moody trail the rear derailleur is tossed. The lower roller just keeping the chain tight.
> I know about the SRAM shifter with Shadow+ combination, that is my next upgrade.


Will a 9 speed sram shifter work with this? That would save if I only had to get the clutch derrailuer. This is the first I have heard of this. I thought Sram 1x1 actuation had to work with Sram. Please inform me more about this. Looks like I have lots of reading to do now that I have found this thread.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

tundratrader said:


> Will a 9 speed sram shifter work with this? That would save if I only had to get the clutch derrailuer. This is the first I have heard of this. I thought Sram 1x1 actuation had to work with Sram. Please inform me more about this. Looks like I have lots of reading to do now that I have found this thread.


Yep, it works.


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

kevbeer said:


> I have camber comp fsr 26er with 9speed 11-34t cassette in back. i am looking to go1x9 with 11-40t in back. What is the cheapest drop in 40t cog? I am not looking to drill holes.


No real "cheap" way to convert a 9spd with an add on cog. Least "inexpensive" way is a Shimano HG61 12-36t 9 spd cassette and adjust your front ring down a size to give you the same gear as you would with the 40t granny setup.


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

tundratrader said:


> Will a 9 speed sram shifter work with this? That would save if I only had to get the clutch derrailuer. This is the first I have heard of this. I thought Sram 1x1 actuation had to work with Sram. Please inform me more about this. Looks like I have lots of reading to do now that I have found this thread.


Yes. SRAM 9 spd works to shift a Shimano 10 spd Dynasis clutch derailleur using a 9 spd cassette and chain. Most only need a slight adjustment on the cable clamp attachment. Lots of posts in here about that setup.


----------



## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

*Oneup 30t*

Installed Oneup 30t








No dropped chains after today's ride.


----------



## Corbinworks (Aug 15, 2011)

Some really clean set up's
LBS just told me that there is no way to run a 1x9 set up on my 06 Specialized XC, So after seeing this thread I want to do it now!
First off, What rear derailleur on a budget & how do I know what size I would need?
I still have the stock 3x crank in with the large ring swapped out for a bash guard..I want that clean lighter look..Thanks for any help in advance!


----------



## fire_strom (Sep 4, 2009)

New LBS.


----------



## Ross1200 (Mar 27, 2014)

Wen I went 1x9 all I did was stuck a NW on the front. Same stock rear de and cranks. Worked fine. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Corbinworks (Aug 15, 2011)

Ross1200 said:


> Wen I went 1x9 all I did was stuck a NW on the front. Same stock rear de and cranks. Worked fine.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Really?
I will have to try this...Thank you!


----------



## Ross1200 (Mar 27, 2014)

Yea. Stuck a 32t NW where my old middle ring was. No bash. Fitted the 104 BCD fine. Ran like a beauty. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Corbinworks (Aug 15, 2011)

Ross1200 said:


> Yea. Stuck a 32t NW where my old middle ring was. No bash. Fitted the 104 BCD fine. Ran like a beauty.


 Hard Tail or Full Suspension?


----------



## Ross1200 (Mar 27, 2014)

Hardtail 29er


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Corbinworks (Aug 15, 2011)

Any one know if this will work with a FS 26er?


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Corbinworks said:


> Any one know if this will work with a FS 26er?


Did on mine.


----------



## Corbinworks (Aug 15, 2011)

NordieBoy said:


> Did on mine.


With no other mods?


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Corbinworks said:


> With no other mods?


2011 Blur XC
32t Narrow Wide and X7 and 11-34 rear with the chain resized to give most tension I could safely get allowing for suspension travel.


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Corbinworks said:


> Any one know if this will work with a FS 26er?


Wheel size has no bearing on this. Now the type of suspension might, yes.


----------



## Ceps (Nov 14, 2014)

Hey guys, thought I could ask here instead of creating a new thread; I have Shimano Altus 3x8, I'm thinking of buying the Shimano Saint Crankset to go 1x8. Do I need anything else? My rings are riveted so my only option (well, I don't want to drill out the rivets) is to get a new crankset.


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Ceps said:


> Hey guys, thought I could ask here instead of creating a new thread; I have Shimano Altus 3x8, I'm thinking of buying the Shimano Saint Crankset to go 1x8. Do I need anything else? My rings are riveted so my only option (well, I don't want to drill out the rivets) is to get a new crankset.


As long as the new ring can run an 8 spd chain.


----------



## Ceps (Nov 14, 2014)

Ohh well I feel stupid, thanks god I asked. Sorry I'm new on this xD. Would this work: Shimano Deore 10 speed s+ r d (says dyna-sys), 10 speed casette (CS-HG62), Zee shifter and Saint crankset?


----------



## cyberavner (Sep 27, 2011)

Any 8,9 or 10 speed chainring will work with a 8 speed chain, so you can pretty much install any crankset with any chainring and it should work with your with your current setup.
You may want to also change the chain to a 9 or 10 speed if the 8 speed chain is not flexible enough and gives you trouble in the extreme high or low gears of the cassette.

If your current crankset handled your riding then a Saint is probably overkill and any Shimano mountain crankset will do the job.


----------



## Ceps (Nov 14, 2014)

cyberavner said:


> Any 8,9 or 10 speed ring will work with a 8 speed chain, so you can pretty much install any crankset with any chainring and it should work with your with your current setup.
> You may want to also change the chain to a 9 or 10 speed if the 8 speed chain is not flexible enough and gives you trouble in the extreme hi or low gears of the cassette.
> 
> If your current crankset handled your riding than a Saint is probably overkill and any Shimano mountain crankset will do the job.


Nice Thanks, and yes is definitely an overkill but a deore crankset(ie) is only $10 cheaper haha


----------



## Ross1200 (Mar 27, 2014)

I'm using a saint crank on a 1x10. Def overkill but I like the security that it ain't gonna break being a heavier weighted man. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Darth Pinche (Feb 19, 2013)

Here is my 1x9 conversion, with a little help from Wrath of Khan, who posted a while back on his conversion on his similar bike.

It is a 2001 Specialized Enduro, with BETD linkage and many other upgrades. I switched out the old E-type BB with a regular, old school taper spindle BB so I could use my old cranks. The Raceface 30t NW ring fit perfectly. I got the bolt shims, but ended not needing them, since the chainring bolts I had (also raceface from a set of Turbine rings) fit perfectly.
I am still using my original XT rear rear d/r (non clutch).

It all works very well, super quiet, no skipping and so far, no dropped chains. Even on some rough, rooted trail, no issues.


----------



## Waldo42 (Jan 31, 2015)

*Rockhopper 1x9*

Hi everyone I'm new to this forum but been lurking for a long time.

Thought I would share my 2008 Rockhopper that I converted to 1x9 a year ago. 32 tooth RF N/W ring, new SLX 11/34 cassette and new chain is all I added. lost about 600g losing all the other stuff.

Kept the deore long cage RD with no chain retention device and only dropped the chain on gnarly descents. Borrowed the Sram x9 short cage RD and shifter off my downhill bike for a while and that made a huge difference, crisp shifts no dropped chains.

Ive had the deore RD back on now for about 6 months and not dropped a chain once, even in the same places that it used to fall off! Weird. This setup has covered just over 1000kms and going strong.

Here are some pics when I first installed the gear.


----------



## littledreamer (Aug 7, 2013)

Here's my Dexter Weight Weenie build, SRAM 1 x 9!
X0 Brakes, Derailleur, Grip Shifter (1 x 9, 11-34 XTR cassette)
Next Sl Cranks, 26t single. Made for climbing. I can live with 26/11 at speed.
SID RLT Dual Air
Fox RP23 shock(standard)
Thomson post
Eggbeaters, to be upgraded to Xpedo Ti/Ti (-60g)
EC90 wheelset
Stan's Maxxis Larsen Exception Silkworm TT FR:2.1 R:1.9
Ashima Aireon rotors
Plastic bottle cage(bontrager)
Ritchey foam grips(awesome!)
Selle Italia Saddle (220g, nothing special, may be upgraded)
BSA30 sleeve to nix BB30
Soon to be under 22lb.
Apologies for the one sideways pic, computer deficient skills.
Rides like a dream, only gripe is a bit of bob standing and mashing, would like RP23 tuned to actually lockout, right now lockout means nothing! Typical RP23 problem...Frame was exactly 6.02lbs bare, medium size. Rides faster than my old On One Scandal hardtail when climbing! I can't really explain why, but it does, it seems to almost self-propel itself a little, don't know why! Love it.


----------



## dhindo (Nov 2, 2013)

My current set up 30t/12-36 i like it so far


----------



## dhindo (Nov 2, 2013)

dhindo said:


> View attachment 967890
> 
> 
> My current set up 30t/12-36 i like it so far


replaced shifter and r/d with sram x7...i just love the 1:1 shifting


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

dhindo said:


> replaced shifter and r/d with sram x7...i just love the 1:1 shifting
> View attachment 973742


Dang that looks fast, like a fighter jet on the tarmac ready for take off!


----------



## civsix (Apr 9, 2015)

*technically a 1x8...*

09 Gary Fisher Wahoo Disc - everything replaced except the frame
 
by civsix, on Flickr


----------



## TampaDave (Mar 20, 2015)

Wifey's bike as it should have come from the factory. RF n/w cr. Never skips and she thinks it's pretty. The stock 11-34 cassette is fine. She never used the 34, it's pretty flat around here. But we went with 165mm cranks, which is like going down a tooth in the back, so it worked out.

In terms of cranks, there are some nice RF units on ebay for about $140, with ring and bb. However I think the best deal out there right now are some XT Deore cranks on pricepoint for $130 with bb. Got some for my bike, put the rings up on ebay, they are going for $11 right now. Plus I could sell the bb. Winds up being a great deal, and those XT crankarms are niiiiice, they feel lighter than the RF units. Love the Hollowtech, just don't forget to order that $2 "bearing preload bolt" tool. 

Wellgo magnesium pedals, just a stupid good deal. Light, grippy, pretty colors. Cheap enough to buy a new pair every season.


----------



## Sambones80 (Sep 2, 2016)

30t RF NW & 11-36 SunRace cassette. I tried an X-9 short cage but it wouldn't clear the two largest cogs no matter how I adjusted the b-screw and it shifted like crap so I went back to my original long cage and haven't dropped the chain yet.


----------



## sxotty (Nov 4, 2005)

Hey I am curious if youguys have a suggestion to run a 9 speed rear cassette with a short cage derailleur. I have a partially used xtr cassette sitting in a box (from when I went X1) that I wanted to put on my daughters bike. She had an 8 speed clunker drivetrain that only went to 28t in the rear. I tried putting an old XT derailleur I had on there, but the 20" wheels are so small that the derailleur is almost hitting the tire. I thought I could just get a short cage, but they seem rare now. Then I saw the Zee derailleurs that seemed to fit the bill (FR) version, but of course they are for 10 speed.

Reading/searching led me to believe it may work with a sram shifter and maybe a spacer or maybe not, but a lot on here seem to have the saint der and I was wondering if you are just using a SRAM 9 speed trigger and whether it is the same as the zee or not.

I could try the XT derailleur, but it is from 13 years ago and I need new pulleys anyway to make it work decent so I wanted to get something else instead of dropping money on something that would just go away. Anyway if anyone has the cliff notes for this I would appreciate it.

Edit:These links have enough info I think.
http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/sram-9-speed-twist-shifter-shimano-10-speed-derailleur-887035.html

Anyone using 9-speed Sram shifter with Shimano 10-speed derailleur? | Ridemonkey Forums


----------



## mr_manny (May 15, 2016)

J. Random Psycho said:


> What model is your Truvativ crankset? If it's AKA or X.9, or X.0, then it will be a very elegant solution running a 28T in front. But if it's a 64/104 BCD non-removable spider such as Stylo, X.7 or FireX, running a 28T is going to be ugly (likely doable but I advice not going that route now that we have a choice).


Why would it be ugly?
I'm thinking of going 1x9 with a 28T at the 64BCD location, and a bashguard on the outer 104BCD...


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Hm. 64 BCD 28T 1x rings were rare, and none were the narrow-wide type, at the time I wrote that. Still, the chainline would be suspect, and the new rings are aluminum.

Also note there are now 28T steel X-Sync spider-rings by SRAM (that suit their splined interface), and they are rather cheap and beefy (heavy).


----------



## defraz (May 17, 2010)

Here is my 1X9 setup on my 2009 Corsair Konig:

cassette sunrace 11-40 9v black, all steel, last cog supported: SunRace | CSM990
shifter 9v sram gripshift
derailleur shimano zee
shim adapter to compensate sram9v-shimano10v conversion (almost equal but better with the shim)
pilo s10 derailleur hanger (sort of Goatlink) https://pilo.co.il/s10-adapter-for-shimano-shadow-direct-link-rear-derailleur.html

Crank is e13 trs+ with 30 NW Raceface ring.

Wide range, 9v chain (i've 9v on all my bike), clutch short cage derailleur; so far so good.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

defraz, nice attention to detail!
Chain looks a bit short; does the frame's linkage have negligible chain growth deep in its travel?


----------



## defraz (May 17, 2010)

J. Random Psycho said:


> defraz, nice attention to detail!
> Chain looks a bit short; does the frame's linkage have negligible chain growth deep in its travel?


Hi J. Random Psycho, good point.
In the meantime i changed the chain with a KMC X9 black color and better regulated the derailleur. I took a photo also on the bigger cog but the phone strangely refused to shhot it and gave a black pictures, Android magic i guess.

However, zee derailleur can clear a 11-40 with a chain growth less than 2-3 cm (i'm trying to recap based on my memory, i've data somewhere). I checked woth linkage software the frame and should be within the limit. I managed to cut the new chain as long as possibile without losing tension in order to minimize the problem.

Obviously you are not supposed to arrive full back excursion while being on 30-40, but it should work. I choosed zee derailleur and 11-40 for this reason, to have the derailleur as short as possible while allowing a good range.

And 9 speed because... well all my bike have 9 speed transmission, but the singlespeed, i started like that and don't want slimmer chain and mud clearance... and i'm a bit of a traditionalist i suppose


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

9 speed with SRAM cable pull is a very nice thing indeed. 

I can imagine a situation where suspension might bottom out in the lowest gear: a crazy high drop off to flat that you start from trackstanding at a ledge and doing a pedal-up to raise the front while taking the bike off the ledge.


----------



## the_penfool (Apr 17, 2018)

Shimano Acera Cranks with Hope 36t narrow wide chainring
Shimano Deore Cassette 11-32 with XT derailleur.
Runs and shifts like a dream.


----------



## MCHB (Jun 23, 2014)

Sunrace 11-40 in the rear and on the front is a blackspire 24 tooth non-narrow wide granny (replaced a worn out generic 24 tooth narrow wide) with the bash guard that came with the bike. Don't judge me! 

The cassette came with a generic road link...so I threw that on as well!

The sunrace cassette had questionable shifting in one or two gears during the first few rides but once the chain and cassette had some time to kiss they made up.


----------



## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

MCHB said:


> on the front is a blackspire 24 tooth non-narrow wide granny (replaced a worn out generic 24 tooth narrow wide) with the bash guard that came with the bike. Don't judge me!


I'm hoarding two of these grannies; Matthew 7:3 says I shouldn't be judging you!


----------

