# Thoughts on buying used converted ebikes? Risky?



## AdamBike (Dec 11, 2015)

Have come across a used rigid bike that was converted to an ebike with a kit and some custom engineering work. Since it wasn’t a stock ebike, I wonder if there’s too much risk of running into issues and having a hard time fixing or being costly.
I suppose there’s some risk with any kind of used bike, not just ebikes, but I also don’t know how much these kits typically require altering the bike components or frame in any way that would compromise it if I wanted to remove the conversion at some point.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Some more details would help. What kind of bike? What kind of conversion? What kind of wheels? What kind of condition.

Also, what kind or riding?

Really, best to ask this on the eBike board.


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## AdamBike (Dec 11, 2015)

Sorry details are a little vague, but it was more of a general question rather than drilling too deep. Maybe tough to answer, but I realized these concerns came up as I was thinking about it. Not so much because of the kit type or details, but more so wondering how effective and reliable ebike conversions are to regular mtbs. I imagine you get what you pay for is applicable to some degree. Curious if these usually turn out successful or are notorious for issues.

But it’s a rigid steel bike with a 1x11.


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

Probably no riskier than buying one of these.
=sParty


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Sparticus said:


> Probably no riskier than buying one of these.
> =sParty


Looks flexy.


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

DIRTJUNKIE said:


> Looks flexy.


Flexy... risky... not the same.
=sParty


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## Crankout (Jun 16, 2010)

AdamBike said:


> Have come across a used rigid bike that was converted to an ebike with a kit and some custom engineering work. Since it wasn’t a stock ebike, I wonder if there’s too much risk of running into issues and having a hard time fixing or being costly.
> I suppose there’s some risk with any kind of used bike, not just ebikes, but I also don’t know how much these kits typically require altering the bike components or frame in any way that would compromise it if I wanted to remove the conversion at some point.


Have you asked the Ebike forum crew?


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Sparticus said:


> Flexy... risky... not the same.
> =sParty


He is risking flex.


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## 33red (Jan 5, 2016)

I would never. Invest in a Giant/Yamaha they are reliable and maintain their value.


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## Bigwheel (Jan 12, 2004)

Sparticus said:


> Probably no riskier than buying one of these.
> =sParty


Why bother just get yourself down to Wally World! 29"er baby! 


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Bicycles-E-Ride-Electric-Pedal-Assist-Mountain-Bike-29-Wheels-Black/365512650


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## matt4x4 (Dec 21, 2013)

Direct drive hub motors last forever unless you cook them, the other hub motors have more moving parts and you might not be able to buy gears, for example, mid drives is a whole other story because its more moving parts, more wear and tear on the drive train but you chose based on what you ride, terrain, slope, speeds and remember that any used battery is worth zero money thats the value as a buyer you put on the battery when buying used anything. Its also risky buying used because the motor could be semi burned up and you'd have no clue unless you open up the up motor. Its just easy to buy the components new and install yourself, you select the kv of the motor you want, y ou select the voltage and amps you want, twist some wires together, spin 2 bolts (hubs  ) and your ready to go.


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

My converted bike with Bafang bbshd is absolutely bulletproof. I can't say that for my pre made ebike with brose motor.


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## WoodlandHills (Nov 18, 2015)

It’s the batteries that are the weak link in a used e-bike. Usually the mechanicals are bulletproof, especially if it’s a BBSHD.


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## matt4x4 (Dec 21, 2013)

Nothing is bullet proof, what you do with it makes it bulletproof like installing a temp sensor and having a controller that measures and shuts down the power makes it bulletproof.
Or you can have something that reduces power when you switch gears, otherwise you blow through drive train components like butter.
Those bicycle components were meant for 200-300w human power watts, not 1000 or 1500w bafang bbshd or bbs01 or bss02 power levels. Yes, all to easy, heck you can cook an illegal 3000w 45H direct drive mxus/QS going 10mph, or the illegal 55H 5000w mxus/QS, or the legal 500w Bafang XF01 or the illegal 16,000w Cyclone-TW mid drive motor or the legal 250w British 25H stator height motor.

The Bafang BBSHD is a very good mid drive kit, seen plenty of killed CYC's. The cool thing is you can make it legal power no matter what its rated for, plus you can switch things up. If you want more speed or more torque off the line, all very easy and most of all, its very cheap. Batteries are not cheap, but people do cheap out on them all the time by buying from non-reputable builders/resellers.


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## fos'l (May 27, 2009)

I have six+ years on a Bafang BBS02 with no maintenance to the motor and no failure riding off road on pretty tortuous trails once a week or so (10 - 15 mile excursions). As above, beware the batteries.


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## matt4x4 (Dec 21, 2013)

If you keep it within the power range and no sudden jolts, things will last. Power ranges are not static, they are always changing, thats why reputable sellers of motors give you a power range. Lets say the bearded guy at Luna cycle is slinging a rebranded BBSHD, he could say that motor is good for 800-1300w (random numbers I forget what they are good for).
Meanwhile the strangers on the usual sites like ebay will have the exact same motor listed in different ads for 250w, 500w, 750w, 1000w and so on, to catch the sales from places like australia or the uk or france that have insane laws on power. Have a 450lb carb loading brit then 250w doesnt help him much vs the 100lb crack head looking for the next fix, but we dont see limits in horsepower with vehicles because 50 or maybe 70hp would do all those countries well. Like I said, buying used you have to watch out, windings could be burnt, it could have rusted innards, and the battery is worthless because who knows how its been cared for and stored. I would open up a hub motor to see if the winding color is healthy and there is no rust and the magnets havent broken and the laminations are fine. Mid drive motors well I've taken a few apart for the final reduction to grease them but nothing further.


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