# Riser bars?



## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

I am changing my XC bike to as much of a geared DJ bike as possible. The main thing I was to help out on is lifting the bike to jump. I'm keeping this on the dirt and I'm very small so dont think I need bullet proof stuff. I have about an inch of shims before the stem and a 27mm(?) or about an inch of rise bars. I am borrowing this stem so I have to get a new one if I want to keep these bars. Would it be better to get 50mm riser bars instead and put the stem on top the tube rather then these shims or would this not make a difference? The height would be the same. I'm not sure if the higher riser bars would help me lift the bike. I'm a skinny girl so could use a good light set up to help. Heres pics of the front end.


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## quickneonrt (Nov 11, 2004)

slam the stem and get the higest rise bars you can. go with a 25.4 stem 35-50mm long and then 2 1/2 to 3" riser bars


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

Thats what I thought. I'm bidding on a 70mm rise, 60mm with 8 degree sweep and might get a Funn Serial Killa handlebar stem from craigslist if I'm lucky! 

So far I've swapped some parts on my bike. Its sooo much better now! A decent bike makes riding a lot more fun and easier. I'm hoping to bunny hop logs without touching them by end of summer.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

I'm getting the FUNN 35mm stem today. Looks like I'll get the 70mm rise bars too. Should I cut the top of the fork down or leave the shims on top? I prob. wont resell this fork as its great for me, adjustable.


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## quickneonrt (Nov 11, 2004)

how tall are the shims going to be? I like to keep an inch to an inch and a half to play with. Experiment with different combinations.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Leave the spacers for now. You never know... maybe you'll like the stem even higher up.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

The spacers add an inch. I'm only 5 feet tall so my upper body isnt that long. If I get the 70mm risers, I'll have to put it to the bottom. Otherwise the bars would be seriously high. 

I got the stem. Its very heavy! Not sure if I like it or not. I dont have a lot of upper body. I'm very lanky and short so I dont handle tons of weight well. Not sure if I should keep the stem or not.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

The weight of the stem will not be much compared to the overall weight of the bike or even the front end.

The heaviest stem that FUNN makes is like 310 grams. The lightest DH type stem in that length is like 120 grams. So that's like a 6.7 oz difference. Now compare that to the fork that weighs like 5 pounds.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

OK, I'll leave it. I'll have to see if I can get a new bolt as one of them is partially stripped. I won the handlebars, they are these. Says 70mm rise so should work OK! I used hairspray on my oury grips. Will I need to replace them or will they pop off using the tire pump at work (bike store)? The new mechanic doesnt know more then me really. 










Did my first real dirt jumps on my BMX today. Pretty cool!


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Those certainly don't look like a 70mm rise. There aren't many bars out there with that much rise. I would not run a cheapie off brand. I would not run carbon on a dirt jumper either.

Your XC bike will never work as well as a dedicated dirt jumper.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

I'm light and small so there are no DJ bikes out there that actually fit me that are 26". Nor many MTB so my main DJ bike will be my 24" BMX. This will be more trails/jumping/freeride stuff on this bike as there are a ton of trails here with stuff to jump over and off. So far I've only found one place for real DJing. I just had a really bad broken arm so not chancing it on anything above 5' as I already have plates and screws in my arm and dont want to repeat it. Girls are built like guys, I'll admit to that. I just like to have equal fun still. I still like to fly in the air a bit. So its not ideal, but trying to get it to fit my needs. IF by chance the frame doesnt hold up, maybe by then I can find a real DJ frame that has a top tube of about 20.5" and get some money.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

I'm kinda screwed now as I really dont have an income now and that is about it from my tax return money.

But they look similar to these:


















And I read people jump on those OK and I'm sure I weigh half as much. So I guess I threw away my money and should stick with what I have? Maybe I can sell it on craigslist. :madman: :madmax:


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

OK, I am asking to have a refund. If not I probably have to resell it and wait to get a better bar. So then what bar IS good yet not super heavy? Why not this brand? I dont weigh even 90 lbs, so bikes for me are heavier in comparison. I'm the size of a small gymnast. Ok, skip the carbon, whats a good aluminum one?


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## pnj (Dec 15, 2008)

Why not ride what you have and start saving for a bike that will work better for you?

26 inch wheels seem really big for a five foot tall person.


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## jawdrop on hardtail (Dec 6, 2007)

They might not have enough rise (40mm), but these are decent bars for the price:
http://www.bikeman.com/HB2471.html


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## quickneonrt (Nov 11, 2004)

i am 5'3" and i rock a blk mkrt 21.5 tt with gears and a pike for ds/dj/light freeride. then I have an Identiti DR Jekyll set up ss for urban and dj. the bike has a high front end marzocchi 08 4x wc 100mm a 50mm RaceFace D2 with rise and 2" bars and an inch of spacers. it handles like a big bmx bike. it can also run 24" wheels also Identiti makes dedicated 24" bikes in alum and cromo.
Good bars I have used Deity, Black Market Bada Boom bars, Answer protapers, Easton EA70s, Race Face Diablous but they are heavy. The protapers were the lightest, then the BLK MKRT, and Deity.
Stem wise I really like the BLK MKRT Underboss and the RaceFace Diablous D2 series they are lighter have a smaller stack height compared to the original Diablous
I have a RF Diablous series 1 in 35mm and os 4sale in really good condition


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

There are plenty of 26 inch DJ bikes that will fit somebody your height.

The Deity bars are lighter than the Blkmrkts... and marginally heavier than Protapers at the same length.

Not a fan of any of the Raceface stuff. It's way overbuilt.

I'm not saying you'll break your bike if you DJ it. But it simply will not ride as well as one intended for jumping. The geometry is completely different.

Handlebars looking similar has nothing to do with how they will perform. Those Eastons are Aluminum, the Edge is carbon. You don't know the thickness of the material.

Carbon bars can be cracked simply by over torquing the controls. 

You can pop off the grips using an air compressor and a nozzle.

You're better off saving for a new bike. Everything will just ride better and be more durable. That fork is pretty entry level. I'm sure the rest of the components are too. Eastern has a complete bike with 24" wheels.

Give us a picture of you in relation to the bike.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

There is only one place that I know of now that has DJs. I take my 24" haro BMX there. For trails, I still like to jump things, but a 24" wheel doest roll over all the rocks, roots and the twigs get stuck in the wheel. So since there are more trails then DJ, I need a more freeride/all mountain bike for that. But I still want to jump over/off anything in the way. So thats what I'm creating my MTB for.

Honestly, right now I am barely living paycheck to paycheck. I am able to get a few things since I am only working part time in a bike store and have sold my belongings, plus a tax return to get these items. Besides that, I wont lose my apt. for a new bike. So for the next year or so, I need something that can handle beginner type of DJs and trails. I think my BMX will be the DJing bike mostly. I am putting a small block 8 tire on the front for shock. As far as forks go, the air only works for me as I dont weigh much. Springs are useless I think for sub 100 lb people.

Pics, not on a bike but heres an idea on my size. Most recent, after I got out of the cast. I'm more muscular now but as you see, not much of me!








Me skating, not a long upper body.









My plans are to ride now and make do with what I have. When I get a real job and save money, then I can either swap the frame once I find one or get a DJ specific bike once I figure what will work for me thats small and I can handle. I am getting stronger but I think I'm well beyond any growth spurt lol.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

So black markt is smallest? I will look into that one day. Wish I could ride one to see how different they are. Shoot, if I knew they could handle the jumps better and still do some trails, that would be the first thing on my list after I get a better job! I dont do trails with big hills, so prob. could use this bike for that too. Even in trails I try to get rolling hills with things to jump so its similiar to DJ. I'm not into the XC climbing/coasting thing.



quickneonrt said:


> i am 5'3" and i rock a blk mkrt 21.5 tt with gears and a pike for ds/dj/light freeride. then I have an Identiti DR Jekyll set up ss for urban and dj. the bike has a high front end marzocchi 08 4x wc 100mm a 50mm RaceFace D2 with rise and 2" bars and an inch of spacers. it handles like a big bmx bike. it can also run 24" wheels also Identiti makes dedicated 24" bikes in alum and cromo.
> Good bars I have used Deity, Black Market Bada Boom bars, Answer protapers, Easton EA70s, Race Face Diablous but they are heavy. The protapers were the lightest, then the BLK MKRT, and Deity.
> Stem wise I really like the BLK MKRT Underboss and the RaceFace Diablous D2 series they are lighter have a smaller stack height compared to the original Diablous
> I have a RF Diablous series 1 in 35mm and os 4sale in really good condition


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## quickneonrt (Nov 11, 2004)

well the Blk Market MOB is expensive, the Riot is less expensive but made over seas and a heavier cromoly by a 1/2 lb. As much as I like my mob the Identiti is a better bike for bmxers the feel of it is like a giant bmx bike, similiar to the Fit cr24. Pluse Identiti makes severat bikes from alum to cromo to renolds steel, from geared to single speed to 24" specific to 26" or 24" wheels. Bmx spaced rears to regulat mtb rears.

http://www.identitibikes.com/identitibikes/products_list.php?c=F


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## Plats (Jun 18, 2008)

You can definitely DJ with a small mountain bike, however a DJ bike somehow is so much less sketchy (geometry?). To me, each rider needs to test the balance of his/her own bike to determine if rise is sufficient. Its simple, if it is too easy to pull up and over-rotates quickly when doing a manual, then don't add any rise. If you can't even pull up the front end without major effort, then consider riser bars - I think with DJ'ing your best to get your rise from the bars and avoid too many spacers or long angled stems (use the shorty DH/DJ stems, they keep you from leaning over XC style) - I also like wider bars for their stablity (add 4-6 inches to your shoulder width). These little changes won't turn a mountain bike into a DJ bike, but it will make it better for jumping.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

Plats said:


> You can definitely DJ with a small mountain bike, however a DJ bike somehow is so much less sketchy (geometry?). To me, each rider needs to test the balance of his/her own bike to determine if rise is sufficient. Its simple, if it is too easy to pull up and over-rotates quickly when doing a manual, then don't add any rise. If you can't even pull up the front end without major effort, then consider riser bars - I think with DJ'ing your best to get your rise from the bars and avoid too many spacers or long angled stems (use the shorty DH/DJ stems, they keep you from leaning over XC style) - I also like wider bars for their stablity (add 4-6 inches to your shoulder width). These little changes won't turn a mountain bike into a DJ bike, but it will make it better for jumping.


OK I definitely need riser bars then! Now I get it on the frame. Sketchy means the landings would be harder.

I guess the best thing to do is change the bars and have fun and see how much/far I get into it. Would my BMX cruiser be better for this? Thats what I used for the actual DJs when I went. I like my MTB for trails and jumping logs, etc. since it rolls over stuff better. I am starting out on just jumping a few feet (<3 feet) and dont plan on doing anything above 5'. I dont want to break my arm again and that seems to be the safe crashing point. I think once I am doing over 3', if the BMX doesnt do it for me and my MTB doesnt either, I should then consider investing in a frame and rebuild. Since I am already changing the other stuff to be sufficient for DJ. This is probably my best bet financially.

I was considering a 24" DJ bike with suspension due to my size. But are there any MTB DJers that are especially small for a 5 foot woman? I like a shorter top tube. 20.5" if possible would work. This would be cheapier then a whole new bike. I could upgrade as stuff breaks then.


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## GorillaTactics (Nov 12, 2006)

I'd ride your BMX cruiser to dirt jump if I were you rather than worry about getting new bars, etc. It will fit you better, have better geometry for jumping, and be more fun in general.


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## Plats (Jun 18, 2008)

How about a 2009 P Grom, but I get to try it out first:

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=39176&eid=103


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

OK, I'll use my BMX for DJs. But I do want a decent bike for the trails and to jump over things like logs. I need help on pulling up since the bike is big. Plus one day I plan on getting a DJ frame for it I think unless I cant find a 26" small enough for me. Which might be the case. If so I still need a 26" MTB for trails as there arent many DJs close by and I havent met anyone yet interested in this. Also for geometry, the P1 frames geometry isnt much different then the Rockhoppers geometry which is what I have. Its just beefier.  So seems to me either its not worth the money really to change unless I become more advanced to notice any difference in DJing or the P1s just arent made for DJing?


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## Plats (Jun 18, 2008)

Ah, don't be fooled - they look the same, but jump much differently. I have jumped all manner of small mountain bikes, they are sketchy (unstable), whereas a dirt jumper rotates in the air properly almost on auto-pilot. I cannot explain it, perhaps the center of gravity (CG) is quite different due to its weight, lower BB, shorter chain stay, etc. All the little 1inch here, 2 inches there, and the handlebar set-ups just make it different - a lot different. You may not notice when comparing on just a few jumps, but ride a DJ bike vs a small mountain bike on some jumps back and forth for about an hour - you will see that the nuiances in movement make a big difference in your jumping confidence and hence your enjoyment. Trust me on this. You can always sell it if you don't like it - a good reason to buy used, you may not even lose any money. The only thing is the weight, the P bikes are freakin heavy - but that matters more in Street than DJ, I think you could handle the weight - you will become stronger!


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

Plats said:


> How about a 2009 P Grom, but I get to try it out first:
> 
> http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=39176&eid=103


Well, it looks like I will have to get a 24" DJer! If it posts used on craigslist, I'll be getting one, just dont see these much. If I could find a 26" that has a small top tube, I would just swap frames, but $1K is not affordable right now. :madmax: OK, get what youre saying! Now hope one shows up for half the price on craigslist.... Honestly, I uni too. When I get better I'll probably use THAT instead for trails, technical riding, logs, XC. I like my bikes cause they are fast and for jumping. So in a year will need really a DJ bike.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

Are there any DJ frames out there with a TT of 21" or slightly less for 26" wheels and a 12"/ 13" frame? If so I'll keep my eye out on one. Otherwise I guess I'll go with the 24" wheel size once I can afford to do so. I'll also see if my BMX is enough for me first or if I am wanting a soft fork.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

I think I could throw something like this around! I dont feel like studying so looked up small frames and a Kona kids would fit me. Or would this suck too? I cant seem to find any frames with a TT 21" or less and a 13" frame or less. If I could find a frame for a 26" wheel, I would probably do a rebuild later this summer if I could also save some money.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Kona_Stuff_24__Dirt_Jump_Bike_2009/5360039401/


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

OK I put my 2" riser bars on. I have an inch of spacers below the stem. I am not sure when a bar is too high but I think it might be too high. Any standard measurements where the bar should come up too? Or should I knock off 1/2" and thats still higher then before.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

It's all preference.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

OK, if it stops raining tomorrow I'll take it out for a spin and double check. I hope this rains stops because I'm ready to ride.


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## quickneonrt (Nov 11, 2004)

cstone said:


> OK I put my 2" riser bars on. I have an inch of spacers below the stem. I am not sure when a bar is too high but I think it might be too high. Any standard measurements where the bar should come up too? Or should I knock off 1/2" and thats still higher then before.


Yes, it is all how you feel. I went low and wide on my SXtrail which is my dh/fr bike because that is what is the "in" thing to do but with the geo and the 66 up front it was too low and too wide. So I cut my bars down to 28" from 30" and put 3/4" spacer 0 rise 35mm stem and 2" risers and it feels so much better for that type of riding.


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## Plats (Jun 18, 2008)

Set your bars up tall to begin with, rotate them to where the middle of the grips are in line with the shock stantions, then ride it like that for a week. Then, without cutting your steerer tube, you should be able to move spacers from under the stem to above the stem to lower the bars (you may end up with a dorky looking front end, but this is just to try the lower bars). Hopefully you will be doing these geo tests with your final shorty stem. Then ride it for a week with the lower handlebars. Personal preference is the key, high riser bars give the bike a more BMX feel, but may take a bit of time to dial in). There is always a possibility you will find that high risers don't feel right to you - but, stick with them and I don't think you will ever go back to the low flat types. 

P.S. you need to show us a Pic of you flying over a jump with your new bars (not flying over the bars).


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

I measured from pedal to top of bars on my BMX and MTB. The MTB is 3" higher from my pedals. So I think this is why I feel its too high. But also my seat is 3" higher up too.


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## Plats (Jun 18, 2008)

Again, personal preference - if they feel too tall, then maybe they are. Even if you do have to go back to lower bars, keep the riser ones - my tastes in front end set-ups seem to change every season. For example, I am tired of leaning forward on my hands so much on my mountain bikes with flatish bars, so I am converting those to risers and lowering seats as well. XC bikes don't huck well, so I gots mine set-up now for easy hucks and hops (I could care less about climbing, I ain't no 'Dirty Roadie', he he).


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

I like risers but dont think I need an 1" of spacers and 2" risers. I'll ride and lower it by 1/2" and maybe that will be perfect.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

Went for a ride, as is. The bars were up at my ribs so arms too bent for much leverage. Lowered it to the bottom and it was at my hips so perfect. I could lift it much better. I also like it MUCH better then all those spacers to get the same rise.

So I cut it down 1/2" and knocked down the star nut. Only thing is I didnt put the fork back right cause when I tightened the top, the fork wouldnt spin. I looked in the book and the new mechanic is green so I had to walk home from the shop and no bike now. The other guy said he would look at it but he tried to help me and same thing, fork didnt spin.


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## lilOlme (Apr 1, 2009)

What kind of a shop is this? The fork won't spin... and the mechanic can't figure it out? You got more problems than just getting the fork to spin.


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

I actually put it together but must have done something wrong. The guy they hired as the mechanic thats new knows less then me and the other employee who is now the full mechanic hasnt looked at it yet and couldnt give me input. At first he said losen the headset lol. I think either a piece somehow is missing from the headset or I put something in upsidedown. But I looked at the book and it seems OK. On top the frame I put in the balls right side up and a plastic rubber piece that went between the balls and frame and wondering if thats whats wrong. I havent done headsets really. I learn by working on my bike.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Did you remember to put the bearing race back in?

Did you tighten the compression cap too much?


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## cstone (Apr 5, 2009)

I will find out Friday what I did wrong. Maybe I didnt use enough grease or put something in backwards. I hope they let me back in the shop more so I can watch/learn!


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## azn (Jan 30, 2008)

i'd agree with XSL-Will.

You probably just forgot to put one piece of the headset back in. I did that same thing when installing my new fork.
couldn't figure out why it had such a hard time spinning...Then i realized one of the spacers I tossed into my pack was the crown race


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