# Fitting 135 hub into 130mm Alum. drop-outs



## Stunz (Jan 30, 2004)

I have a late 80's Cannondale SM700. The frame is Aluminum and the rear dropout spacing is 130mm. I'm done trying to fix and patch the original Suntour XCD drivetrain.

I'm about to replace the rear wheel with a standard 135mm wheel and swap in a new 8-sp cassette and der. Since the frame is Aluminum, will their "really" be any problems with spreading the chainstays to fit the new wheels?

This bike will only be used on the pavment, so I'm not to concerned about over stressing the AL.


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## banks (Feb 2, 2004)

Stunz said:


> will their "really" be any problems with spreading the chainstays to fit the new wheels? This bike will only be used on the pavment, so I'm not to concerned about over stressing the AL.


No worries, go and ride on!


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## laffeaux (Jan 4, 2004)

Stunz said:


> I have a late 80's Cannondale SM700. The frame is Aluminum and the rear dropout spacing is 130mm. I'm done trying to fix and patch the original Suntour XCD drivetrain.
> 
> I'm about to replace the rear wheel with a standard 135mm wheel and swap in a new 8-sp cassette and der. Since the frame is Aluminum, will their "really" be any problems with spreading the chainstays to fit the new wheels?
> 
> This bike will only be used on the pavment, so I'm not to concerned about over stressing the AL.


I say be safe rather than sorry. Current road hub spacing is 130mm. Build up a road hub with a 26" rim and you're set.


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## MantisMan (Jan 20, 2004)

*I agree, I've spread steel dropouts from 126 to 130 but....*

I sure wouldn't try it with aluminum! Get a road hub like he said and build the wheel.


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## tube_ee (Feb 1, 2004)

*A data point*

I use a slightly-too-big (not sure of the actual spacing of the wheel or the frame, maybe 140 hub / 135 frame) Phil Wood hub on my Rodriguez AL-26 tandem, with zero issues. All up weight, team + bike, is just under 500 lbs. I've had zero issues, and my parents put many thousands of miles on the bike before they split up. Which is how I got the bike, but that's another (very long) story.

The frame has not cold-set at all, the rear wheel is still a bear to get in the dropouts, even after 5 or 6 years. If it works on a tandem, I'd feel OK doing on just about any bike, except maybe a DH bike, or a really light hardtail with super-thin tubing. My Rodriguez is pretty stout, as is your Cannondale.

All that said, go with what you're comfortable with.

--Shannon


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## banks (Feb 2, 2004)

banks said:


> No worries, go and ride on!


I have a Specialized Deja Tu Tandem with 130mm spacing and I have a 135mm XT rear hub without any problems. Remember that you are only "spreading" 2.5mm on each side.


banks said:


> No worries, go and ride on!


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## First Flight (Jan 25, 2004)

The main issue is not the width but the drop out faces being parallel with each other. Because of this, your axle doesn't get as good of "bite" into the drop outs. You can over tighten the quick release to pull them in but that can cause the quick release to fail. Usually the wheel will pull out when it has the most stress on it (sprinting, climbing...). Exactly when you want it to come out least!! And yes, we have actually seen this happen at the shop, so it is a real concern.



tube_ee said:


> I use a slightly-too-big (not sure of the actual spacing of the wheel or the frame, maybe 140 hub / 135 frame) Phil Wood hub on my Rodriguez AL-26 tandem, with zero issues. All up weight, team + bike, is just under 500 lbs. I've had zero issues, and my parents put many thousands of miles on the bike before they split up. Which is how I got the bike, but that's another (very long) story.
> 
> The frame has not cold-set at all, the rear wheel is still a bear to get in the dropouts, even after 5 or 6 years. If it works on a tandem, I'd feel OK doing on just about any bike, except maybe a DH bike, or a really light hardtail with super-thin tubing. My Rodriguez is pretty stout, as is your Cannondale.
> 
> ...


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## 02_NRS (Jan 27, 2004)

*rear spacing/ chain may rub frame;*

did the change to a older trek mtb./shifting the axle spacers about to make the hub fit took mucho time-would not recommend it.small sproket nearly rubbed the frame meaning the chain had no clearence. find a 130 hub.cheaper in the long run & the frame will stay straight.


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## tube_ee (Feb 1, 2004)

First Flight said:


> The main issue is not the width but the drop out faces being parallel with each other. Because of this, your axle doesn't get as good of "bite" into the drop outs. You can over tighten the quick release to pull them in but that can cause the quick release to fail. Usually the wheel will pull out when it has the most stress on it (sprinting, climbing...). Exactly when you want it to come out least!! And yes, we have actually seen this happen at the shop, so it is a real concern.


Yet another reason to be glad for the 5 mm Allen bolts Phil Wood uses on tandem hubs.

A question... Do you see this more frequently with the "external" type of QR, where an eccentric lever presses on on a plastic plate? These are widely believed not to hold nearly as well as the older, heavier, internal type. Sheldon has a page on this, but I forget the URL.

--Shannon


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## Jeroen (Jan 12, 2004)

banks said:


> I have a Specialized Deja Tu Tandem with 130mm spacing and I have a 135mm XT rear hub without any problems. Remember that you are only "spreading" 2.5mm on each side.


who says that it will spread 2.5mm on each side...?? Think about that one...

I would alter my hubs axle or obt for a new rear hub...


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## islander (Jan 21, 2004)

*Hub spacing on an old Rocky*

I have a 1990 Rocky Mountain Fusion (steel frame) that can with 7sp LX hubs. Does anyone know if this bike has 130mm or 135mm spacing. I know they made these hubs in both sizes in the 1990 MY.

Thanks,
Mike


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## laffeaux (Jan 4, 2004)

islander said:


> I have a 1990 Rocky Mountain Fusion (steel frame) that can with 7sp LX hubs. Does anyone know if this bike has 130mm or 135mm spacing. I know they made these hubs in both sizes in the 1990 MY.


You can measure it with a ruler or tape measure. Pull off the rear wheel and measure the distance between the drop outs.


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## andrewthorne (Feb 26, 2004)

Stunz said:


> I have a late 80's Cannondale SM700. The frame is Aluminum and the rear dropout spacing is 130mm. I'm done trying to fix and patch the original Suntour XCD drivetrain.
> 
> I'm about to replace the rear wheel with a standard 135mm wheel and swap in a new 8-sp cassette and der. Since the frame is Aluminum, will their "really" be any problems with spreading the chainstays to fit the new wheels?
> 
> This bike will only be used on the pavment, so I'm not to concerned about over stressing the AL.


I have a pair of wheels that you can have for very cheap. DX hubs (seven speed hyperglide freehub body, but with 130mm spacing) laced to Ritchey Vantage rims with 14 ga spokes. Basically, what would have been stock on a 91 or 92 MB3. I bought 'em for a Bridgestone rehab project that never quite happened.

Very cheap, give me a shout.

Cheers,

-Andrew


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

islander said:


> I have a 1990 Rocky Mountain Fusion (steel frame) that can with 7sp LX hubs. Does anyone know if this bike has 130mm or 135mm spacing. I know they made these hubs in both sizes in the 1990 MY.


1988 or later Rocky's would be 135mm


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## islander (Jan 21, 2004)

DeeEight said:


> 1988 or later Rocky's would be 135mm


Thanks Dee8, I knew you'd know!!

Mike
PS there's a sweet Altitude frame on ebay right now....though too small for you or I.


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