# Help, Broken Bolt!



## tootsjofus (Sep 13, 2005)

I snapped a bolt in my stem. :madman: Whats the best way to get out the remaining piece? Drill it out maybe, I don't want to ruin the threads.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Yes, drill it out. The best way is to use a dripp press and clamp the stem down securly, if you don't own a drill press or have a friend with one take it to a shop and ask them if they can do it for you. I've tried drilling out bolts before with a normal drill and it's a royal PITA and nearly always doesn't work or you risk damamging the threads.


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## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

If you think you can touch the bolt with a metal punch you can tap it out.


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Dremer03 said:


> If you think you can touch the bolt with a metal punch you can tap it out.


And what would that do to the remaining threads?

OP, is it a steerer clamp bolt or one from the face-plate? A picture of the situation would make it much easier to suggest a remedy.


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## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

SteveUK said:


> And what would that do to the remaining threads?
> 
> OP, is it a steerer clamp bolt or one from the face-plate? A picture of the situation would make it much easier to suggest a remedy.


What remaining threads?

You take a center punch, place it on the bolt and tap it with a hammer to the left. If done right, the bolt will back its self out by using the force of you hitting the punch with a hammer.

If it is the face plate and all the other bolts are removed, you can probably just unscrew the face plate from the bolt (by turning the hole face plate) and grab the bolt with some vice grips and turn.


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

> What remaining threads?


As I understand the OP's problem, he wants to remove the portion of bolt which is still in the stem body. I presume that this portion is retained by threads on the bolt and threads on the stem. Even a clean, greased and free-moving bolt is not going to work itself loose by being hammered with a punch - a bolt which is somehow (you don't know how) lodged in the threads is certainly not going to: it's going to start stripping through the threads.


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## 3034 (Apr 12, 2006)

you can buy left handed drill bits at the hardware store.
this has worked for me in tight areas that dont have enough room for anything else


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

/\ Left hand twist drill will often remove lightly stuck bolts . If this method does not work , drill out the majority of the diameter of the bolt and you can then remove the threads that remain with a dental pick .


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Dremer03 said:


> If you think you can touch the bolt with a metal punch you can tap it out.


Seriously, dude? 

First, hit it with good penetrating oil. Then, if any part of the bolt is still protruding, you grab it with a vise grips and turn it out. If you can't get hold of it, try the left hand drill bit as already mentioned at a low speed; you want it to bind, not actually drill through the bolt. If the drill ends up drilling a hole and not turning the screw out, then use an Easy-Out, which is a tapered bit with a left hand spiral cut into it; it threads itself into the bolt until the taper binds, and then it backs the bolt out.

You can also try the Craftsman Screw-Out kit, which will provide some traction on the remains of the bolt, and won't mess up your threads.

If you end up drilling the entire bolt out, you most frequently need to then install a heli-coil or time-sert, neither of which I would entire trust on a stem. Drilling the bolt out would be my last option.


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## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Seriously, dude?


Totally :thumbsup:

Try it some time, works like a charm.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Dremer03 said:


> Totally :thumbsup:
> 
> Try it some time, works like a charm.


Do you think I'm saying it sucks because I haven't tried it? I'm saying it sucks exactly because I *have* tried it. It's an _extremely_ limited method, one which I don't even bother trying any more. The torque generated on the bolt is small, which is further reduced by the added friction between the threads generated by the hammer strike. Beyond that, we're talking a stem here, with small bolts in aluminum threads.

EDIT: I expanded my post with some added information after Dremer03 quoted me. No sneakiness here.


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## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Do you think I'm saying it sucks because I haven't tried it? I'm saying it sucks exactly because I *have* tried it. It's an extremely limited method. Beyond that, we're talking a stem here, with small bolts in aluminum threads.


Yes it is limited and it would be extremely difficult on a small bolt...but it does work.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Dremer03 said:


> Yes it is limited and it would be extremely difficult on a small bolt...but it does work.


Then why the hell are you posting it in a thread about removing a broken bolt from a stem?!? I mean, if we were just listing *all* possible methods to remove a broken bolt, I could have added a lot more.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

To the OP , go ahead and take a big Fawking hammer to your stem . Send the bill to replace it to Dremmer. Since he is so sure that it will work and wont damage anything , I'm sure he wont mind putting his money where his mouth is .


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## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

No one is forcing him to do anything, and no one said a "big fawking" hammer. Take a sharp punch and just tap it out. If the tap is to big and it does not work, then oh well try something else. Your not going to break your stem doing this. Drilling out the bolt on the other hand can completely destroy it is you don't manage to do it straight.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Dremer03 said:


> No one is forcing him to do anything, and no one said a "big fawking" hammer. Take a sharp punch and just tap it out. If the tap is to big and it does not work, then oh well try something else. Your not going to break your stem doing this. Drilling out the bolt on the other hand can completely destroy it is you don't manage to do it straight.


Remember that thread about you giving bad advice and then defending it afterwards? You should probably go read it again.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

No one is forcing you to post your uninformed advice , yet you continue to post what may be the worst advice on the intardweb . Have a nice day .


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## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

Dremer, you gotta be kidding...


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## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Remember that thread about you giving bad advice and then defending it afterwards? You should probably go read it again.


The process I posted is a legitimate way of removing a bolt, regardless of how big it is. If it simply does not work for him does not make it bad advice.

If drilling and tapping doesn't work, does that make it bad advice? How about any of the other things posted? I think what makes it bad advice according to you or AZ.MTNS is just the fact that I posted it.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

It dosent matter who posts it , bad advice is bad advice . You just seem to have a propensity to post bad advice . Then when three or four people point it out , you continue to try to defend it . Some people might suggest that it makes you appear to be the fool . and some people might agree with that . So no matter how it makes you appear , continue defending you obviously misinformed opinion .


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## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

AZ.MTNS said:


> It dosent matter who posts it , bad advice is bad advice . You just seem to have a propensity to post bad advice . Then when three or four people point it out , you continue to try to defend it . Some people might suggest that it makes you appear to be the fool . and some people might agree with that . So no matter how it makes you appear , continue defending you obviously misinformed opinion .


2 people actually, SteveUK didn't say anything bad about my suggestion and PissedofCil didn't saying anything directly pointed at what I suggested.

Again my method works. Its a proven way of extracting bolts. It might not work the best for a stem bolt, but you cant say it wont work if you have never tried to extract a stem bolt in this way.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

:bluefrown: Like my brother always says "theres always one tool in the box" .


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## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

AZ.MTNS said:


> :bluefrown: Like my brother always says "theres always one tool in the box" .


Dont be so hard on yourself :thumbsup:


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

invent a chemical/enzyme/bacteria that only likes to consume stainless steel and has an aversion to aluminum.
Apply and stand back!

-your welcome


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Dremer03 said:


> Again my method works. Its a proven way of extracting bolts. It might not work the best for a stem bolt, but you cant say it wont work if you have never tried to extract a stem bolt in this way.


Your method is a **** way of extracting bolts, not just stem bolts. The instances where it actually works are few, and one of the other alternatives is almost always faster and easier. Even if you method wasn't ****, it's still not a good method to extract bolts from a stem, and is therefore bad advice!

I have experience and I have brains. I don't need to try your method specifically on a stem to know it's a bad idea, the same way I know heating a stem up with MAPP to loosen a bolt is a bad idea.


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## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Your method is a **** way of extracting bolts, not just stem bolts. The instances where it actually works are few, and one of the other alternatives is almost always faster and easier. Even if you method wasn't ****, it's still not a good method to extract bolts from a stem, and is therefore bad advice!


Basically you think it is bad advice because it works, but is harder than other methods? It is also bad advice because it is harder to do than other methods?

No ones twisting the OP's arm to do it.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Dremer03 said:


> If drilling and tapping doesn't work, does that make it bad advice?


No, because that's the first step and has a very high percent chance of working.



Dremer03 said:


> I think what makes it bad advice according to you or AZ.MTNS is just the fact that I posted it.


Then you'd be wrong. Again. I'll call out anyone who give bad advice, even if it were my own mother.


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## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> No, because that's the first step and has a very high percent chance of working.


Also has the highest percent chance of ruining the stem.:thumbsup:

Safest bet on not doing damage is using a extractor like others have suggested, or tapping it out like I suggested.

All else fails, take a drill to it.

I do get the feeling that the stem is stuck on the bike, so good luck getting it in a drill press. I also wouldn't suggest a hand drill if you want it straight.

All of that fails, take you hack saw out and cut it off...perfect time to upgrade.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Dremer03 said:


> Basically you think it is bad advice because it works, but is harder than other methods? It is also bad advice because it is harder to do than other methods?


Go back and read my post again. It's because it rarely works and is harder.



Dremer03 said:


> No ones twisting the OP's arm to do it.


Well, since no one is twisting the anyone's arm here, why don't I just go around telling people to lubricate their brake rotors, run a loose headset, and to loosen their spokes before each ride? After all, I'm not twisting their arm to do those things.


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## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Go back and read my post again. It's because it rarely works and is harder.


Rarely *WORKS*, means it works some times. High probability of a drill doing damage, but I dont see you saying anything about that.



bad mechanic said:


> Well, since no one is twisting the anyone's arm here, why don't I just go around telling people to lubricate their brake rotors, run a loose headset, and to loosen their spokes before each ride? After all, I'm not twisting their arm to do those things.


I would never give that advice.:thumbsup:


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Dremer03 said:


> Also has the highest percent chance of ruining the stem.:thumbsup:


Hey! Dremer! Read my post! I said drilling it out is the LAST resort. Hitting is with a left hand bit would be the first move.



Dremer03 said:


> Safest bet on not doing damage is using a extractor like others have suggested


Wow! Way to take my advice and give it back to me! Thanks! If you're going to just go around regurgitating what you read, don't do it to the person who wrote it in the first place. 



Dremer03 said:


> or tapping it out like I suggested.


Dude, you've been riding less than a year. Stop swinging your e-dick around here.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Dremer03 said:


> Rarely *WORKS*, means it works some times.


Is that really what you're going to argue here? You are seriously grasping at straws now.



Dremer03 said:


> High probability of a drill doing damage, but I dont see you saying anything about that.


Oh really? And how would you know that? Unless you have the IQ of a dog and hands of goat, you'll be fine.


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## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Dude, you've been riding less than a year. Stop swinging your e-dick around here.


What does bike riding have to do with removing a bolt?

Answer nothing. Regardless of how long I have been riding a bike, I have removed my share of broken bolts. My mentioned method worked for me. If it doesnt work for you, then to bad for you because it works for me, and it could work for the OP.

Why are you even arguing with me?* Its a proven way of removing a bolt, simple as that.* Who cares if its difficult, or might not work. Doesn't mean if he owns a sharp center punch and a hammer he shouldn't at least try it.


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## Dremer03 (Jun 19, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Is that really what you're going to argue here? You are seriously grasping at straws now.
> 
> Oh really? And how would you know that? Unless you have the IQ of a dog and hands of goat, you'll be fine.


Its interesting to read back and none of you suggested using a Center Punch to keep the drill bit from wobbling off the screw.

To the OP,

If you drill out the bolt make sure you go super slow, and use a center punch to give your drill bit a starting point.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Dremer03 said:


> What does bike riding have to do with removing a bolt?
> 
> Answer nothing. Regardless of how long I have been riding a bike, I have removed my share of broken bolts. My mentioned method worked for me. If it doesnt work for you, then to bad for you because it works for me, and it could work for the OP.
> 
> Why are you even arguing with me?* Its a proven way of removing a bolt, simple as that.* Who cares if its difficult, or might not work. Doesn't mean if he doesnt own a sharp center punch and a hammer he shouldn't at least try it.


It is not a proven method for removing a bolt from the confines of a hole that small in diameter . If you are proposing to tap the exposed end of said bolt , the bolts diameter would preclude using a punch as you suggest . :nono:


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## ICE4Me (Jan 27, 2009)

I have to side with Dremor on this one. I use the tap tap tap / chisel method always as my first coarse. It DOES work and is quick, safe and easy.

I really don’t get why all the drama, when somebody was asking for advice.

Suggestion;
Use it don’t use it (I don’t care)

Ben


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

ICE4Me said:


> I have to side with Dremor on this one. I use the tap tap tap / chisel method always as my first coarse. It DOES work and is quick, safe and easy.
> 
> I really don't get why all the drama, when somebody was asking for advice.
> 
> ...


I agree that a chisel will work , a punch as was suggested will not work .


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

AZ.MTNS said:


> I agree that a chisel will work , a punch as was suggested will not work .


I still stand by my suggestion...


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

I feel it necessary to respond one more time.

Cons to using a chisel to work a broken bolt out:
- To apply force in the proper direction, the bolt need to be either very big, or extremely near the surface.
- Nothing can be occulting the bore, e.g. the steerer clamp of a stem. 
- To be effect, the force needs to be applied perpendicular to the bolt's axis, so the more force you apply, the greater the chance of the chisel slipping. 
- The threads cannot have bond or corroded for this to work, since there is simple not enough torque generated.
- It doesn't work well on smaller diameter bolts as the lever arm provided (the distance from the bolts center you can place the punch/chisel) is very small, therefore reducing the torque generated to virtually nothing.
- If you're not hitting the chisel completely sideways (which is incredibly hard to do without it slipping), every time you hit it, you're momentarily tightening the threads, essentially making the bolt tighter at the very moment you're trying to loosen it.

Yeah, I tried it, it barely worked for anything, and then I bought proper tools for the job and haven't looked back since.


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

If the face plate comes off, another thing that might work depending on how much of the bolt is exposed above the face of the stem is to cut a slot in it with a hacksaw blade or dremel tool - be careful - and then use a screwdriver to back it out.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

wv_bob said:


> ... or dremer tool - be careful -...


:eekster: :eekster: :eekster:


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