# Yeti ASRc Weight Reduction - XC and Endurance



## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Need some ideas here. My bike is a Yeti ASRc, set up for a mix of XC, endurance and (hopefully this next year) MTB stage racing. 

My bike isn't particularly light in its current setup. Strong, light-ish, durable? Yes. Do I think it could lose some weight, and retain that durability? Yes.

Right now it's 23.5 pounds. Spec as follows:

2015 Yeti ASRc (M) w/Fox DPS shock
Cane Creek 110 HS w/Slam That Stem bearing cover
DT Swiss OPM ODL 120mm fork
Syntace Flatforce 66mm stem
Syntace Vector Carbon 740mm bar
Lezyne side loading cage
Formula R1 brakes
Shimano RT99 160mm, Avid HSX rear rotor
XX1 shifter, RD, X01 cassette
170mm Hollowgram SL w/34t Garbaruk Chainring
DT Swiss 240/Sapim CX-Ray/ENVE XC wheels
Bontrager XR2/XR1 (2016) Team Issue tires
Specialized Command Post IRCC (100mm)*
Fizik Antares Carbon saddle
DT Swiss 15x100mm and Ibis Hexle 142x12mm thru axles


*I swap the seatpost and saddle out for a KCNC ProLite Ti and the same saddle for flatter or less technical XC races. Lose most of a pound.

Me: 142lb pro XC racer, in grad school. I'm 5'6" with long limbs and broad-ish shoulders. Every part on my bike, with the exception of frame and fork, was acquired for at least 30% off MSRP. In many cases, I've purchased slightly used (brakes, cranks, wheels) and saved 60%+ off MSRP. To say that I am thrifty is an understatement. 

One thing I haven't done and don't really know much about is bolt tuning. Seems there are some relatively inexpensive areas to trim some weight, quickly. I've contemplated some new bars, etc. The stem, unless someone can suggest another ~-30 degree option that isn't outrageously priced, is probably going to stay.

Any suggestions?


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

Titanium bolts on the stem , seatclamp, rotors (although some use alloy and seem to get away with it) and any mid load bearing parts . 

You can use alloy for the bottlecage mounting bolts, derailleur screws, pinch bolts etc . 

If you can source them then try and get hold of carbon bolts - they are lighter than alloy and have a higher tensile strength .


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

For once, I am stumped.

Off the top of my head, if you were to recklessly overspend to shave 10-20g on several components, I think we're still looking at 50-60g total. No harm in bolt tuning, and you didn't mention the grips, but it still amounts to minimal weight loss.

The tires would be the only reasonable target, but that's your call based on your style, and typical terrain of course. Could be 100g in rubber to lose - maybe a bit more.


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

Get lighter brake rotors (the lightest atm are Kettlecycles carbon ceramics), replace the command post with a carbon rigid (that in itself will save over 300+ grams), get some Extralite (or similar) hubs, get a much lighter carbon stem, a Schmolke/MCFK carbon bar and a CarbonWorks bottle cage (4 grams but really strong and rigid) .

The more expensive route would be getting a lighter fork (like Rockshox WC) with lower travel .


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

The thing is, I think Duke knows what he wants in terms of setup, so I specifically did not recommend a post change, nor a suspension travel change.


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

Fair point but if that's the case he is going to have hard time reducing weight as those are the two heaviest parts he could easily change .


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Here's a question. 

A bar-stem one piece combo. Anyone know how much such a beast would cost? 740mm, FlatForce-like angle/drop.

Reducing fork travel isn't really a good option. I bottomed out my fork 4 times on laps of the Zen trail in St. George, UT yesterday (which is rated "double black diamond" by users on Trailforks, apparently). And I'm running just below 20% sag, IIRC. Also, the dropper post wasn't absolutely necessary, but it did help get the bike out of the way on some of the trickier drops, particularly on the first lap, flying blind.

I'll investigate some bolt tuning options. Is Toronto Cycles still the go-to site for us in the US/Canada?

Also, saddles. The Antares on this bike is over spec weight at like 160g. I can swap it out for another one I have, at 143g, but that's not a huge loss. Are there any carbon saddles out there that DON'T have a cutout/notch in the back? That's one reason I like the Antares.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Le Duke said:


> Here's a question.
> 
> A bar-stem one piece combo. Anyone know how much such a beast would cost? 740mm, FlatForce-like angle/drop.


No experience with those myself. The only thing I'm curious about is if you could find the exact setup (stem length & angle, bar length & angle) to suit your needs.



Le Duke said:


> I'll investigate some bolt tuning options. Is Toronto Cycles still the go-to site for us in the US/Canada?


I used them recently, but then again I'm fairly close to Toronto.



Le Duke said:


> Also, saddles. The Antares on this bike is over spec weight at like 160g. I can swap it out for another one I have, at 143g, but that's not a huge loss. Are there any carbon saddles out there that DON'T have a cutout/notch in the back? That's one reason I like the Antares.


MCFK makes one. No cutout, 70g, and great flex. Too expensive though.

Maybe Tune would work?


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

Yup my Tune Komm Vor and Komm Vor + are awesome saddles and slightly cheaper than MCFK (which I also have) . They also flex and have ovalised rails for strength . 

There was one dude that had a one piece carbon stem/bar on the (dare I say it) official weight weenie site and i think it was around the 130/140gram mark . My MCFK stem and New ultimate bar combo comes in at 86grams for the bar and 65grams for the stem so that's 151grams so not much really in it . Also a monocoque bar/stem will be one position only and if you decide in the future that you need to change the bar to a riser or flat or need a longer bar then you're stuck . The only weight saving is on the faceplate and bolts and the MCFK stem like me and Phlegm have is incredibly light .


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## nunokas (Aug 12, 2014)

Hi.

For the saddle you could try tune komm vor or speednedlle, but it's a very personal choice... 143gr for an antares is very good. 

For racing i would never use alu bolts even on bottle cages. Titanium all the way.

For your type of ride and setup it's going to be difficult to shave weight without spending some serious money... i think you're fond of bigger tyres and wide rims so certainly there will be some tradeoffs...


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## Drider85 (Jan 12, 2009)

Extralite black lock for the front axle. Would a different rear shox save weight without to much of a performance hit?


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

nunokas said:


> Hi.
> 
> For the saddle you could try tune komm vor or speednedlle, but it's a very personal choice... 143gr for an antares is very good.
> 
> ...


Yeah. While I am an XC racer, I ride some pretty brutal terrain sometimes. I'm trying to find a balance between light, functional and durable.

I'll take a look at some light thru axles for the fork, some Ti bolts, and maybe some new bars.

I'm quite fond of the rear shock on this bike. The DPS is the real deal. Very little if any pedal bob, yet great performance.


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## nunokas (Aug 12, 2014)

Even on the bars (i'm a syntace user too), for your type of riding, it's difficult to find better than syntace on carbon...

A light (but expensive) shock like dtswiss X313 carbon but probabily without the "smothness" of fox


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

Lots of racers use alloy bolts for the bottlecages (although I use carbon bolts which are better) . Try it . 

Hands down MCFK bars can take the abuse of trail riding and are much lighter than Syntace . I would bet that MCFK is stronger than Schmolke .


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## diskox (Apr 19, 2014)

If 720mm would suit you, take a look at mt zoom 720mm bars. They have excellent feedback and aren't expensive. MCFK would be a bit lighter but more expensive and somewhat cheaper than Schmolke.

As for custom bar/stem combo, that could cost you around $200-300 just to join them or around $400 if you provide a bar and they make a custom stem. Regarding stem if 25 degrees would work then you have WSC 260 as an option but it's kinda ugly for my taste.

I'm not sure if all this would be worth it in the end. If I were you I'd leave the bike as it is and would probably change to some lighter parts if it would improve aesthetics of the bike.


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## m3bas (Dec 24, 2011)

How did you get the Ibis hexle to work? I have one but its a bit shorter than the Shimano one the bike comes with and it only hooks onto the first couple of threads.


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## Heath27 (Nov 20, 2012)

Bored in class last week and stumbled upon Calfee for bar stem combo. Not sure if they would do a mountain bar tho.

http://calfeedesign.com/product/components/barstem/


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## csteven71 (Jan 15, 2009)

I'm with phlegm I read this after posted, scratched my head trying to find weight and moved on. Ride it and enjoy.


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

Is this what you mean by cutout?


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## brentos (May 19, 2006)

What tubeless tape are you using in your wheels?


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## spartan23 (Jun 14, 2004)

Le Duke said:


> Need some ideas here. My bike is a Yeti ASRc, set up for a mix of XC, endurance and (hopefully this next year) MTB stage racing.
> 
> My bike isn't particularly light in its current setup. Strong, light-ish, durable? Yes. Do I think it could lose some weight, and retain that durability? Yes.
> 
> ...


Nice build but I always thought the Yeti ASRc was lighter, more like in the Scalpel 29er range no?


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

It has weighed sub-22 in previous incarnations. 

I didn't weigh the dropper/remote/cable when I added it; I'm guessing it's at least a pound heavier overall.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

I suppose this is developing into the typical scenario where someone has a light bike, but wants to take it a bit further:


Tires are always a target, but that is personal preference.
Saddles are often a target, but again personal preference.
Dropper posts aren't a WW - probably by definition - but this is personal preference.
etc.

So we're left with only high end (high price) upgrades left, or marginal loss through bolts and grips. If price is a constraint - as it should be - then we're limited to that marginal stuff.

That's a long-winded way of saying I've got nothing mind-blowing for you.


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## krzysiekmz (Nov 10, 2009)

Without spending a lot of $$$ I would look at handlabar, headset/headset cap, rotors, bolt tuning and tires. Then again, if you replace off of these, you may be looking at getting a new wheelset etc. 

You're missing info. such as grips, barplugs, tubeless setup, seatpost clamp, chain, chainguard, fork expander etc. These add up but can be replaced easily and for least amount of money.


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

I have to agree to get it lighter you will have to fork out a lot more money . Is it worth it for you, will it make any more difference to how it performs now and will you be happier ?!!! I got my soft tail down to just over 7kg and well it has lightened my wallet, taken me a long time and was a bloody headache . Would I do it again, probably but i would try and find more bargains next time !!!


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## khardrunner14 (Aug 16, 2010)

pics would help...or not...but I could drool over such a nice ride


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

I'll be making a couple of relatively cheap mods soon:

1) Gorilla tape to Scotch 8898 Blue strapping tape.
2) New seatpost collar.
3) KCNC grips.
4) Using the internal routing for my dropper instead of external, cutting down about 2ft of housing.


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## serious1 (Jan 11, 2013)

Those KCNC grips are garbage. They spin like crazy. Try the lizard skin dsps if you want something lighter than ESI's


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

That's the trade off with light foam . They will rotate . I had two sets of KCNCs and threw them out . They are tacky inside but this still doesn't help .


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

serious1 said:


> Those KCNC grips are garbage. They spin like crazy. Try the lizard skin dsps if you want something lighter than ESI's


My Lizard Skins spun after a couple of weeks.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

I use ritchey wcs grips. First time i used hairspray and they never moved. Got lazy on new bike(alloy bar) and they have rotated about 1/4". And they are really light. I like the extra cusion, very durable(except the ends from me clipping trees)


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

I haven't had any problems with the KCNC grips, but you do need to lock-wire them on. An alternative is to use some strong zip ties, but you need to place then so the locking mechanism is not in a position that you will feel. The Ritchey WCS ergo grips are good, but still need to be lock-wired on for any reliability in wet weather and at 44g a set are not that light for foam grips. It's a real pity you can't get the Titec Pork Rinds any more. They were by far and away my favourite foam grip. Lightweight and surprisingly tough/long lasting.


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

It goes with logic . The lighter the material the less dense so the more likely it will move on any surface no matter how much grip and if you add too much grip chances are it will tear . Most definitely wear out far quicker than any other grip .


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## scant (Jan 5, 2004)

TigWorld said:


> It's a real pity you can't get the Titec Pork Rinds any more. .


Have a look for the kcnc eva foam grips. they're identical to the pork rinds, aside from the logo. comfort & fit are a very personal thing. I used to run the pork rinds, but the dsp grips are fair more comfortable.

I've got a few sets of the lizard skin dsp grips. the last set were so firmly attached I had to cut them off, which for me is the only bad thing about those grips


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

scant said:


> ...
> 
> I've got a few sets of the lizard skin dsp grips. the last set were so firmly attached I had to cut them off, which for me is the only bad thing about those grips


I hear you on that!

Just had to remove some DSPs yesterday, and not only did I have to cut them off, but removing the double-sided tape is a nightmare.

Actually, I think you (scant) or someone else warned me about that.


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## BmanInTheD (Sep 19, 2014)

phlegm said:


> I hear you on that!
> 
> Just had to remove some DSPs yesterday, and not only did I have to cut them off, but removing the double-sided tape is a nightmare.
> 
> Actually, I think you (scant) or someone else warned me about that.


God, I will never go thru that again! One side was easy but the other took about 20 minutes. The Ritchey WCS foam grips are fantastic and DO NOT move if you spray a little hairspray on the bar and inside the grip before easily sliding it on.


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## sfer1 (Feb 22, 2009)

People need to learn to live with the weight of the ESI Chunkys, instead of trying inferior grips to save 30g.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

You have a point, but to save 30g relatively cheaply is pretty good.

The ESIs have been great for me, but I don't like that tree clipping (which is one of my hobbies) tears them up pretty easily.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

sfer1 said:


> People need to learn to live with the weight of the ESI Chunkys, instead of trying inferior grips to save 30g.


my foam grips look a hell of alot better after a year then my friends esi grips.


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## scant (Jan 5, 2004)

sfer1 said:


> People need to learn to live with the weight of the ESI Chunkys, instead of trying inferior grips to save 30g.


I had ESIs on 3 bikes for over 2 years. I vastly prefer the feel & grip of the DSP. I appreciate grips (& all 3 contact points) are a very personal choice, but I'd never consider DSP inferior, on the contrary, in the wet I feel the rubber grip of the DSP is actually better. but as I say, each to their own


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

Yeah, each to their own, but I've tried the ESI's and prefer the lighter closed cell foam grips. I just find them more comfortable. It's not that I didn't like the ESIs, its just that the Titec pork rinds / Ritchey ergo WCS and XXF grips feel more comfortable. There's something really "dead" feeling about the ESI's...


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## jmcdev1 (Jan 1, 2011)

Hey Duke, maybe you already do this, but I am sort of like you in that I have my 2016 custom build xl Stumpjumper fsr weight down about as far as it can go, after transferring all my 2012 epic parts to the frame with a Pike 140mm fork. 
Looks like you are running 29er wheels and are probably tubeless with sealant. Instead of adding 4 ounces (120ml) of sealant every six months, I add 20ml each month and it takes about five minutes per wheel once a month. That's a significant decrease in the amount of rotating mass. Liquids weigh quite a bit. 
Rocks are so sharp here we must run tires with side wall protection. Using less sealant reduces that weight penalty somewhat. Especially important with my 2.35 Nobby Nic tires needed for our terrain.
Important to mark your calendar so you don't miss the fill up dates and end up running without sealant, then flatting and having to throw a tube in. Guess who has done this, but at least only once.  
Also, the new aluminum valve stems with removable core make this very easy & are very lightweight. 
I suppose this would be too much of a hassle for some riders. However, I have been tubeless for so many years it just seems so simple to me.
PS-that trail you described riding, I think in St. George, sounded outstanding, got to ride it someday.


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

jmcdev1 said:


> Instead of adding 4 ounces (120ml) of sealant every six months, I add 20ml each month and it takes about five minutes per wheel once a month. That's a significant decrease in the amount of rotating mass. Liquids weigh quite a bit.
> Rocks are so sharp here we must run tires with side wall protection. Using less sealant reduces that weight penalty somewhat. Especially important with my 2.35 Nobby Nic tires needed for our terrain.


Or you could just use Orange Seal Endurance every 6 mo.!


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## jmcdev1 (Jan 1, 2011)

Actually did try that, but got tired of waiting for 30 minutes for the orange seal to finally seal a sidewall cut on so many rides. You would not believe how sharp our lava rocks are here. The orange seal will seal it but it takes it forever. I've actually had to throw a tube in and then at home lay the wheel on its side overnight for the orange seal to finally work. Finally just accepted the weight penalty of side wall protection. Life has been sweet ever since. 


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## Pezzer (Sep 25, 2015)

Just gotta paint it black 
Finished my winter cut - 21.59lb


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

Very nice dude .


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## mackdhagen (Jun 17, 2011)

phlegm said:


> For once, I am stumped.
> 
> Off the top of my head, if you were to recklessly overspend to shave 10-20g on several components, I think we're still looking at 50-60g total. No harm in bolt tuning, and you didn't mention the grips, but it still amounts to minimal weight loss.
> 
> The tires would be the only reasonable target, but that's your call based on your style, and typical terrain of course. Could be 100g in rubber to lose - maybe a bit more.


I concur sir..i'm stumped too! thats a dream build by most standards. I don't see how you could loose the "better part of a pound" on a the seat and seat post when what you have is already WW territory. Plus on a FS and the burly terrain that you are riding i think your asking for a "ride home/finish the race while standing the whole time" scenario. your light enough to handle that set up but...

I don't know personally the weight of the frame but Yeti's are not known for being the lightest girl at the ball. You may love that frame but for an XC setup you may want to look at scott or BMC.


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## mackdhagen (Jun 17, 2011)

karimian5 said:


> Very nice dude .


Indeed, yer stoked...you got me thinking about a yeti....is when you hit the 8-bikes in the quiver threshold is that when it starts to be come a problem and people start to talk?


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

jmcdev1 said:


> PS-that trail you described riding, I think in St. George, sounded outstanding, got to ride it someday.


If you look for a poster named LCBooger, he posts quite a few videos of that area. I think he has a few of the Zen trail itself.

The new Cannondale 360Fly team was training out there recently; I expect they'll have some good video of it posted up on social media pretty soon. Raphael Gagne, Alex Grant, Keegan Swenson, Evelyn Dong, and old man Tinker Juarez.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

My HT is built up as my light bike and it's 22.5 lbs, mainly because of the dropper and real tires. It has a similar build with a slightly heavier drivetrain, CK hubs, and dated parts. Pretty happy with it, but wanting to do a modded shifter for a dropper remote to clean it up.

If/when you're comfortable with the current weight, the next step would be to go for reducing drag, such as replacing bearings.


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## jmcdev1 (Jan 1, 2011)

Wow, Le Duke, that's my kind of trail! Full of challenges. I can see you would grow to love that trail more and more the more you rode it. Able to fly over sections that challenged you initially. Always additional sections to get better at. Very cool. Thanks for suggesting the videos. 
That would be a pretty vigorous workout on a cross-country bike like my 2012 SWorks Epic, even with the 120 mm fork and 100 mm dropper post that I put on it, and so much more fun on my new stumpy. Even so, those Cannondale pros probably ripped through that trail incredibly fast.


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## Pegleg81 (Aug 6, 2014)

jmcdev1 said:


> ...
> Looks like you are running 29er wheels and are probably tubeless with sealant. Instead of adding 4 ounces (120ml) of sealant every six months, I add 20ml each month and it takes about five minutes per wheel once a month. That's a significant decrease in the amount of rotating mass. Liquids weigh quite a bit.
> ....


When you first install your tire, how much ml of stan's would you use? I'm in the same boat with many peeps here and this sounds very intriguing, especially since my trails aren't very rocky for the most part.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jmcdev1 (Jan 1, 2011)

Hey pegleg81, running Nobby Nic 2.35 29's front and back, I will put 30 ML in the first time, and then 20 ML once a month thereafter until tire wears out. This works for me in our hot Hawaii temperatures. YMMV. 
In past years I used to put in 4 ounces about every six months and that worked. It eventually occurred to me that I was carrying extra weight in the periphery of the rotating wheel where it matters the most and reduced the amount as above. In the beginning of this process I tried to stretch it out and see if the 20 ML's would last two months and it did not. I punctured and found all of the sealant had dried up inside. Had to throw a tube in. Now I know my limit. No flats since then over a year ago.


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## Pegleg81 (Aug 6, 2014)

Thanks for sharing, jmcdev1. I'm going to try your idea. I certainly don't mind the extra maintenance if it means shedding some ww weight!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

You (op) could reduce the weight of your bike by getting a better/lighter frame . Get a 650b frame and smaller 650b wheels will definitely lighten the bike  !!! Get lighter wheels than those Enve by AX lightness or MCFK . Nothing wrong with riding on 650b wheels or 26 wheels . It's all about skill level . If you haven't got the skills to ride a 26" the go 650b :thumbsup: .


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

jmcdev1 said:


> Hey pegleg81, running Nobby Nic 2.35 29's front and back, I will put 30 ML in the first time, and then 20 ML once a month thereafter until tire wears out. This works for me in our hot Hawaii temperatures. YMMV.
> In past years I used to put in 4 ounces about every six months and that worked. It eventually occurred to me that I was carrying extra weight in the periphery of the rotating wheel where it matters the most and reduced the amount as above. In the beginning of this process I tried to stretch it out and see if the 20 ML's would last two months and it did not. I punctured and found all of the sealant had dried up inside. Had to throw a tube in. Now I know my limit. No flats since then over a year ago.





Pegleg81 said:


> Thanks for sharing, jmcdev1. I'm going to try your idea. I certainly don't mind the extra maintenance if it means shedding some ww weight!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I should warn you that going tubeless isn't a massive source of weight loss. Actually, it's good to see that jmcdev1 is targeting 30 mL at first (which is ~ half a scoop of fluid), as a lot of people throw a full scoop in there each time.

As per and older thread of mine, a half scoop, or roughly 30 mL (the Stans scoop is 63 cc), weighs ~30g each time:
http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenies/new-build-2013-s-works-stumpjumper-ht-935429.html#post11525480

I suppose some portion of fluid escapes, or evaporates, but I'd expect the dried fluid accounts for a lot of extra rotational weight over time. (For example, with no fluid loss, jcmdev1's regimen theoretically adds 250g per tire per year.)

As such, you may consider a tire removal, inspection, and re-seat from time to time (which is not a bad idea anyway), and while doing so scrape off some of the extra dried fluid - especially the spider webs that aren't even touching the tire. The coating on the sidewall will remain, which is a good thing. If you go through multiple tires a season, this is probably not as much of a factor as I'm describing though.


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## jmcdev1 (Jan 1, 2011)

Hey phlegm, good point. I will say though that in recent years I am surprised how little dried residue is present inside the tire when I finally rip it off and throw it away for a new one about once a year. There's really not much there with the new Stan's solution compared to the initial formula. 
By the way I went off the side of the road into the weeds this morning to avoid some walkers on a commuter run to the store and ended up with approximately 20 goatheads in each tire. I'm due to put another 20 ML's of sealant in this weekend so I was a little worried that there might not be enough sealantwhen I pulled them out. Waited until I got home and pulled them all out. Every puncture sealed immediately but some thorns were only in knobs and not in the carcass. Didn't lose much air. Yikes that's a bit reassuring.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

jmcdev1 said:


> Hey phlegm, good point. I will say though that in recent years I am surprised how little dried residue is present inside the tire when I finally rip it off and throw it away for a new one about once a year. There's really not much there with the new Stan's solution compared to the initial formula.
> By the way I went off the side of the road into the weeds this morning to avoid some walkers on a commuter run to the store and ended up with approximately 20 goatheads in each tire. I'm due to put another 20 ML's of sealant in this weekend so I was a little worried that there might not be enough sealantwhen I pulled them out. Waited until I got home and pulled them all out. Every puncture sealed immediately but some thorns were only in knobs and not in the carcass. Didn't lose much air. Yikes that's a bit reassuring.


Funny, but when you said "walkers" above I immediately thought of zombies. That's a challenging trail.

Re the tire, which that many micro-punctures you may actually want to swap it out - sorry if that's still pretty new.


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## BruceBrown (Jan 16, 2004)

Is the XTR build accurate at 22.3 pounds for the Yeti ASRc?

Yeti Cycles ? Bikes ? ASRc

Do you "need" the dropper post?

Edit: I read another thread on the Yeti board and see you did have your bike at a lighter weight in the early build.


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## NH Mtbiker (Nov 6, 2004)

Pezzer said:


> Just gotta paint it black
> Finished my winter cut - 21.59lb
> 
> View attachment 1050991


Very nice ride!
Quick question on your bar/stem height in relation to your seat. I am trying to setup my bike very similar but with a neg rise 60mm stem and Haven low rise 750mm bars. How much higher is the top of your seat (approx) to your bars or top of grips? I know this is different for everyone, but just trying to get is close based on similar bikes/setup. Thanx!


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## BruceBrown (Jan 16, 2004)

My XL came in a bit over what I had on my intended parts list in the spreadsheet (by a pound), but it's not too far off at 23.42 with the Racing Ralph 2.35f/2.25r.

Swapping out saddle & post to other parts I have (Masterpiece and Volt, trimming the steerer tube for the final cut, and swapping to my preferred Renegade 2.3 race tires would take it sub 23 for XC racing.:thumbsup:



__
https://flic.kr/p/GSzBwC
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

I need to ride it as is first to see how it does once the recent rains dry out and the trails are ready...


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## csteven71 (Jan 15, 2009)

BruceBrown said:


> My XL came in a bit over what I had on my intended parts list in the spreadsheet (by a pound), but it's not too far off at 23.42 with the Racing Ralph 2.35f/2.25r.
> 
> Swapping out saddle & post to other parts I have (Masterpiece and Volt, trimming the steerer tube for the final cut, and swapping to my preferred Renegade 2.3 race tires would take it sub 23 for XC racing.:thumbsup:
> 
> ...


That's a beauty.


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