# 350lbs, 6'3", 32" inseam 700 budget



## travistrav (Jul 4, 2017)

Hey guys,

I am trying to find a bike to fit me in this price range. So far, all of the bikes I can find, have a 300lb cap.  Is there anything it there that I can ride without fear if it snapping beneath me? I took my old Trek 820 out yesterday, and was afraid for my life anytime I built up speed, that there was going to be a catastrophic failure. Lol

I do onroad off-road riding. So basically pavement, dirt, and singletrack. The off-road riding is not aggressive, but the terrain is fairly rough. Lots of roots, large rocks, etc. Yesterday I dug my old (20ish years) Trek 820 out and took it to the park. It was pretty uncomfortable, and the lack of front shocks was rough. I took a beatin. I would like at least front suspension, but research seems to indicate that with my weight it is a waste of money. Because I live in WV, I don't think a fatbike would do me much good, because half of my riding will be uphill. 

One of my LBS recommended a Rockhopper Sport. Another the Kuna Mahuna. Pinkbike and Craigslist are wastelands in my area. 

I appreciate any guidance! I REALLY need to reclaim some semblance of cardio health. 350 at 45 years old isn't good. I'm running out the clock, and would like to see my daughter's married, and grandkids!


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

I've been there. Start small, include walking and hiking as well. Seems this bike is pretty decent but they are sold out of Large.Product: Mongoose Ruddy Comp 27.5+ Mountain Bike


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

You'll spend 3 to 4 times that in the end, to arrive at a usable bike, if you start with one that costs $700. And that's not factoring in downtime when you get hurt from something cheap breaking while riding.

Look at this as an investment in your life. Is it worth more than $700?

Not to say that you have to go hog wild and spend $8k as is so easy to do these days -- just that the more you spend, to a point, the more you get. Spending ~$2k now gets you a bike that can get you back to health, and not injure you anywhere along the way.

Good luck.


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## Cuyuna (May 14, 2017)

Morbid obesity (medical definition, not a criticism) at age 45 is a scary place to be. Diabetes, heart disease, osteoarthritis are all in your future unless you do something dramatic. Your primary goal should be losing weight, not bashing the trails. Trail riding would be fun, but not at 350 lbs. That weight on a standard mountain bike on the trails will very likely break it, and it's unlikely you could use a suspension at a safe pressure. I think you're going to have to save the off-road stuff until you can lose enough weight to get a bike and suspension you won't have to worry about. I'd go for as strong a bike, road or MTB, as you can, get out and burn some calories. $700 however is an extremely limiting budget.


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## life behind bars (May 24, 2014)

TBH, I'd drop the cash on a spin bike off of craigslist.


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## krel (May 9, 2017)

I don't get all the negativity. Being overweight sucks. Finding motivation to lose it is really hard because food tastes good. If what you want to do is ride in the dirt, then that's freaking awesome and I absolutely understand that. You don't need a multi thousand dollar bicycle to go have some fun. You might need to keep in mind your size and the bike's ability to withstand punishment – but at that age and weight (I'm 47, 6'1", 280, so I am walking my talk here) I suspect you're not going to be looking to do things like drop off a 4 foot ledge, etc. By the time you've lost some weight and gotten in better shape, you could always upgrade to a better bike.

Take a look at the 2018 specialized rockhopper 29 comp. About $650, has hydraulic brakes. Good luck 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## travistrav (Jul 4, 2017)

mikesee said:


> You'll spend 3 to 4 times that in the end, to arrive at a usable bike, if you start with one that costs $700. And that's not factoring in downtime when you get hurt from something cheap breaking while riding.
> 
> Look at this as an investment in your life. Is it worth more than $700?
> 
> ...


Mike, I understand.. I am of the buy once cry once mentality. However, the money I have is what I have, and I dont have anymore. I cant invest in a loan right now, because my job is likely going to be outsourced.



> Morbid obesity (medical definition, not a criticism) at age 45 is a scary place to be. Diabetes, heart disease, osteoarthritis are all in your future unless you do something dramatic. Your primary goal should be losing weight, not bashing the trails. Trail riding would be fun, but not at 350 lbs. That weight on a standard mountain bike on the trails will very likely break it, and it's unlikely you could use a suspension at a safe pressure. I think you're going to have to save the off-road stuff until you can lose enough weight to get a bike and suspension you won't have to worry about. I'd go for as strong a bike, road or MTB, as you can, get out and burn some calories. $700 however is an extremely limiting budget.


Cayuna, I am in agreement. I am not doing what I think someone else would refer to as difficult tracks, with drops or anything. But it is rough in that it is bumpy. I think that anyone else would just call it a trail.



> TBH, I'd drop the cash on a spin bike off of craigslist.


Life, I would consider that.. but in my area, that sort of thing isnt really available.. and especially not at my weight class. I was looking for a rowing machine or a spin bike.. no luck.



> I don't get all the negativity. Being overweight sucks. Finding motivation to lose it is really hard because food tastes good. If what you want to do is ride in the dirt, then that's freaking awesome and I absolutely understand that. You don't need a multi thousand dollar bicycle to go have some fun. You might need to keep in mind your size and the bike's ability to withstand punishment - but at that age and weight (I'm 47, 6'1", 280, so I am walking my talk here) I suspect you're not going to be looking to do things like drop off a 4 foot ledge, etc. By the time you've lost some weight and gotten in better shape, you could always upgrade to a better bike.
> 
> Take a look at the 2018 specialized rockhopper 29 comp. About $650, has hydraulic brakes. Good luck


Krel, I dont think they are bein negative.. probably just more realistic than I would like to hear.


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## krel (May 9, 2017)

travistrav said:


> Krel, I dont think they are bein negative.. probably just more realistic than I would like to hear.


Yes and no. On any specialty forum, like this one, peoples perspectives get a little skewed. You're right, it's probably not fair to call it negative, but I don't think you need to spend 3 grand and I don't think you need to find a different activity if this is what gets you out and moving.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

Salsa Timberjack 29 NX1 , is a really nice bike for the money. Most dealers can knock $100 off , maybe more if you find a end of the year deal (2018's are coming out). That would get you pretty close.

TIMBERJACK 29 NX1 | Bikes | Salsa Cycles

I'd also check chain reaction , they have deals on hardtails in your price range.

you will need something with a air fork.

something like this , but a little bit less $$.

Vitus Bikes Sentier 29 Hardtail Bike - Deore 2017 | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## KidCharlemagne (Dec 11, 2012)

travistrav said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I am trying to find a bike to fit me in this price range. So far, all of the bikes I can find, have a 300lb cap.  Is there anything it there that I can ride without fear if it snapping beneath me?
> 
> I do onroad off-road riding. So basically pavement, dirt, and singletrack. The off-road riding is not aggressive, but the terrain is fairly rough.


Best wishes for success in getting your life back. At 42, I went from 420 pounds to 240 in a little over 18 months and have kept that off for almost 15 years. If I can do it you can do it. I'm not telling you it was easy -- it was hard enough to lose but even harder to keep it off -- I am just telling you that it is possible if you are willing to do whatever it takes, especially about the mental aspects of figuring out why you ate your way to the weight you are... in many cases, it may involve re-surfacing repressed childhood trauma but you will be the better for it once you walk through the fire.

Although cycling was not a significant part of my weight loss, it certainly has been the most important part of my weight maintenance the last few years. Not just maintenance, but actually getting into some kind of shape, with real endurance (goal: ride a century this year).

I would recommend focusing on road riding initially, because you will place less of a load on the bike components -- the loads are a bit more predictable. Also, you can keep your heart rate up sustainably and more predictably on the road... on a mountain bike, conditions change so radically that your heart will be speeding up and slowing down all the time.

I was really into mountain biking in the late 1970s (!) and early 1980s and always considered myself a mountain biker. But I find myself the last couple years in the self-image of a roadie that does a lot of mountain biking on the side. I ride road for fitness and mountain bikes for fun. While I am certainly beat up after 10-15 miles on the mountain bike, I still think I get a better cardio/endurance workout on the road.

You can buy a new road bike in your budget range, and probably with a little research, a good used model. Most important thing you can do for yourself with a new bike is to get it from a shop that will do a high-quality fitting. You'll be far more comfortable if you do -- your butt will not hurt as much, for one thing.

You will probably trash wheels on a road bike, especially if you live in an area with rough winters, but most other stuff ought to keep working. You'll trash more stuff on a mountain bike, so your repair costs will be higher as well as higher purchase cost for the same approximate level of quality.


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## Namlehse (May 8, 2013)

You might be able to get a Cannondale Cujo 3 for that. Cannondale is known for good frames, you can upgrade from that point on. It'll give you a good place to start if nothing else. This is the bike we bought my stepson for around $740.

From this you have a decent platform for upgrades as you can afford them. My bike was wrecked in a car accident, so we're applying my Sram GX 1x11, Guide R brakes, and my dropper post to his bike. Most of these parts can be picked up really cheap second hand and will make a world of difference as you get better. The 650b+ (27.5+) is very confidence inspiring as well.

The only other advice I can give is to talk to some LBSs in your area, they'll be able to tell you far more about what a bike can and can't handle. I started out on a Giant Talon 29er 0 at 350lbs. I beat the hell out of that bike. At 300 I upgraded to a Carbon Trance Advanced. Giant doesn't put weight limits on it's bikes or wheels. So my LBS says if I manage to brake it, they'll get it replaced. I keep going back to them and Giant due to them being honest to us every time we need it.


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## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

6'3 and 350lbs is tough, especially since you're young enough you can probably carry that weight around pretty well. At 700$ i doubt you'll find a bike where the suspension does anything useful or that will have wheels that last with any real off road use. I'd suggest--

*Increase your budget-* The 456  is a suuuuper fun long travel hardtail with a smart component spec and really durable wheels. The fork isn't amazing, but it's good and the air spring design used adapts to heavier riders quite well. There's other bikes like this, but that one is my favorite.

*Forgo suspension-* The marin pine mountain is a rigid steel plus bike. You get super high volume tires and use the tire pressure to tune the ride. At your weight suspension forks will be outside the range they're designed to work with, but tire pressure is much more accommodating. These bikes are a mess of fun and surprisingly comfy offroad.

Both models here have pretty sensible builds for a clydesdale, but neither are designed explicitly for us. Don't buy a bike under ~1300$ with a suspension fork. Don't. If you live somewhere hilly factor in buying an 8" front brake rotor and adapter right away.

I suggested steel frames and i think that's pretty important. A heavy rider really loads things like seat tubes and head tubes in a way that aluminum suffers, and it's expensive to 'underbuild' a steel frame. The 1lb weight penalty is immaterial when you're over 200lbs. Anecdotally, i've broken ?8? aluminum frames in my years riding, but never a steel one.

Bikes are super fun, and that's much more true when you have the stamina to jam around on them without being tired all the time. If it's kinda fun now... stick with it it gets better the more you ride. With that in mind, the road bike suggestion is a really good one. They hold up better, it's easy to hop on and go, and the used market is healthier.



Namlehse said:


> talk to some LBSs in your area, they'll be able to tell you far more about what a bike can and can't handle.


I wish this were true, but bike shop employees just can't know what it's like to be a 250+ lb cyclist. Some of the smart ones who are paying attention might have some insights, but i would take the advice of the experienced members of this forum over what a given shop employee has to say. Heck, i bet half the people here are former shop employees.



KidCharlemagne said:


> Best wishes for success in getting your life back. At 42, I went from 420 pounds to 240 in a little over 18 months and have kept that off for almost 15 years.


Much respect for this. Maintaining it for 15 years is very impressive.


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## travistrav (Jul 4, 2017)

Thanks a lot for all of the advice.. I did get a "raise"... I can spend up to 1k (hard cap) now. It is a damn shame the Surlys are so high. It is breaking my heart that I cant get one of those!


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## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

travistrav said:


> I did get a "raise"... I can spend up to 1k (hard cap) now.


It's funny how 200$ can be so important at the beginning when 1-2k is immaterial in how it affects your lifestyle long term.

At one point i was 300lbs, but i knew i loved MTB and so i built myself a bike that would hold up to my weight but still be rad when i was back to my fighting weight... i'm there now, and although i've replaced almost everything on that bike it was still a fantastic investment. This sport is awesome, no regrets. (ironically i break more parts now than when i was fat)


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

travistrav said:


> Thanks a lot for all of the advice.. I did get a "raise"... I can spend up to 1k (hard cap) now. It is a damn shame the Surlys are so high. It is breaking my heart that I cant get one of those!


The bike I linked on chain reaction , has novatec hubs and a air fork. From what I've read on here novatec hubs are decent for heavy riders.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

SURLY KRAMPUS MOUNTAIN BIKE TWO WHEEL AND TIRE SETS SIZE SMALL EXCELLENT SHAPE | eBay

Not your size but this is what I'd be looking for if I were you.


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## travistrav (Jul 4, 2017)

Thank you all for your input. I wanted to buy locally, and I have a LBS they worked with me to get a Timberjack 29 nx1 that Johnd recommended. They let me take it out for a spin, and I enjoyed the ride. I am not going to be doing any fancy maneuvering on it, to be sure, by I feel much safer (control wise) on it, than I did the ooold trek 820 I was riding prior. Hopefully I can get some time with this fork before I need to upgrade. Wish me luck!


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

travistrav said:


> Thank you all for your input. I wanted to buy locally, and I have a LBS they worked with me to get a Timberjack 29 nx1 that Johnd recommended. They let me take it out for a spin, and I enjoyed the ride. I am not going to be doing any fancy maneuvering on it, to be sure, by I feel much safer (control wise) on it, than I did the ooold trek 820 I was riding prior. Hopefully I can get some time with this fork before I need to upgrade. Wish me luck!


That fork will hold up fine.You are right, it's best to buy local from a shop if you can afford too.


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## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

johnD said:


> That fork will hold up fine.You are right, it's best to buy local from a shop if you can afford too.


I looked the fork up- never heard of that one before. Air sprung, proper shimmed compression and rebound... heck yeah! The QR and slim chassis doesn't do travis any favors, but that's a pretty rad fork at that price point.

Well done, enjoy the bike, it looks like a pretty sweet ride!


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Well, good on you for trying to get your weight handled, same height as you, nearly 200lbs lighter and can't imagine what I would feel like if I were that heavy - never even hit 200.

I whole heartidly agree with Scotzg, that Marin Pine Mountain would be an awesome starter bike and the PLUS tyres would definitely add a lot of cush to the ride, along with the steel frame. Suspension at your weight and budget is really not something to consider, so the rigid is perfect, if you want to do something to it that might increase it's "fun factor" and abilities, changing the front to 29+ would do that and not cost a bomb. Right now Performance has them on sale for $899, which to me for the parts, is a killer deal Marin Pine Mountain 27.5+" Mountain Bike -2017

Also, kudoes for even thinking rigid might be the best option, wish the shop I bought my first bike from had advised me like this instead of letting me buy that POS FS.



scottzg said:


> It's funny how 200$ can be so important at the beginning when 1-2k is immaterial in how it affects your lifestyle long term.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Just saw this on a group, thought it needed to be posted here since it was a bike mentioned. Seems there have been a few of the rigid forks on the Pine Mountain that have bent/broken, so maybe not the best for a 350lb rider if that's happening or maybe you can just get it taken care of as soon as you buy the bike.

http://www.marinbikes.com/us/support/recalls


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## DCFarris (Jun 12, 2017)

scottzg said:


> I wish this were true, but bike shop employees just can't know what it's like to be a 250+ lb cyclist. Some of the smart ones who are paying attention might have some insights, but i would take the advice of the experienced members of this forum over what a given shop employee has to say. Heck, i bet half the people here are former shop employees.


I have to second this. I am new to Mountain Biking, and purchased what I thought was a really nice bike. Turns out the wheels it had on it were the "cost saving" item and the front crumpled on me coming off a very small drop. Somewhere around 6 to 8 inches.

I'm not as heavy as the OP, but heavy enough, and when I went to the LBS the mechanic just shrugged off my concerns and offered to order me a direct replacement wheel that I am sure would do the exact same thing. I left and after doing some research here and talking to Mike at lacemine29.com, I have some wheels on the way that will properly support my weight.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Wheels are always a money saving point on less expensive bikes as are seat posts, handle bars, stems, ect. 

For a heavy rider...IMO, a key thing to do no matter the price point is have a competent wheel builder that's familiar with a heavier rider go over the wheels and make sure it's true and properly tensioned. That can save busted spokes which will lead to a crumpled wheel.

So even with cheap wheels provided they have appropriate spoke count (32 min., 36 preferred) you can get by for a while or even indefinitely. Once you know that you are going to ride enough to justify the cost...you can start looking at having a nice set of wheels built which will set you back $600-ish or more depending on what you go with. My go to is Hope Hubs, DT Swiss comp. spokes, and right now I'm on Stans Flow EX rims and WTB Team Frequency i23 rims. Both have been great so far.

Just for reference...I'm currently 260 as high as 320 and usually these days hover around 245-250.


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## Jmack45 (May 30, 2016)

I am in same boat as you. Similar height and weight and was worried about the weight limits listed for bikes. All the research I did and feedback I got from people made 1) relax a little about the weight limit as manufactures need to be conservative to protect themselves from claims/issues...especially not a huge issue if you aren't riding super hard trails etc..
2) guided me to the 29er Rockhopper. 
3) so far no issues at all and I feel really secure on it.
Go for it! And don't over research and anlyze. 
If you can get to a local shop and just talk to someone about what you want to do and try a couple bikes it makes a big difference. 

Good luck.


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