# klunker bike?



## Atomic300 (Feb 9, 2004)

What makes a good klunker frame, is it just about any bike and frame? Or are there certain brands. Why asking I might want to try and find a good old frame and put either disc brakes or v brakes on it. I have seen alot of old bikes fixed up on this site, some frames looked pretty shtty other alot of work put into frame to make bike looke excellent.
I sure alot of money too?

Are there any forums where you can go to look for ideas and information? I mean there is this one but this also is more about mtb. bikes right?

Are bike swap meets a good place to pick up a old frame, and what would be a good price to pay? OO sure you can not say until you see it, but there is a refurb bike shop where I am and they are asking top dollar for some pretty crape bikes and frames. Yes everyone is allowed to make a profit, but just asking where else to look? Are there any good bike swamp meets that have decent bikes and frames here in the NE say between baltimore and CT.?


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*This is a good place to start*

Follow the link to an advanced search for klunker in this forum. Lots of great examples of the original klunkers, some sweet newer ones, extreme modifications, and some great stories. Enjoy, this is where I got my ideas for my klunker project. Have fun and good luck in your search.

http://forums.mtbr.com/search.php?searchid=6481059

frog


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

1 cog frog said:


> Follow the link to an advanced search for klunker in this forum. Lots of great examples of the original klunkers, some sweet newer ones, extreme modifications, and some great stories. Enjoy, this is where I got my ideas for my klunker project. Have fun and good luck in your search.
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/search.php?searchid=6481059
> 
> frog


Looks like the link doesn't work anymore.


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*new link*

http://forums.mtbr.com/search.php?searchid=7902652

pics of my modified cruiser

frog


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## Boy named SSue (Jan 7, 2004)

Lot's of inspiration on Alan Bond's site:

http://www.clunkers.net/


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## Repack Rider (Oct 22, 2005)

The question is like asking, "What makes a good hotrod?" Find a frame, any frame, and build a bike. And if you come across a better frame, move the stuff over. Some klunker builders try to recreate the original '70s version, but the parts are hard to come by and it's a lot easier to build a hybrid.

As Mike pointed out, Alan Bonds is the master of the craft, the only link left to the real Old Skool that Alan helped invent. Look upon his site, my son, and get ideas. Alan builds all kinds of bikes, depending on what kind of parts he has been able to round up. His paint jobs are beautiful.

This is a photo I took of one of Alan's bikes on a sunrise ride to the top of Mount Barnaby in Marin County, around 1977. He's had thirty more years since then to perfect his art, as if it wasn't already perfect then.


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

Repack Rider said:


> The question is like asking, "What makes a good hotrod?" Find a frame, any frame, and build a bike. And if you come across a better frame, move the stuff over. Some klunker builders try to recreate the original '70s version, but the parts are hard to come by and it's a lot easier to build a hybrid.
> 
> As Mike pointed out, Alan Bonds is the master of the craft, the only link left to the real Old Skool that Alan helped invent. Look upon his site, my son, and get ideas. Alan builds all kinds of bikes, depending on what kind of parts he has been able to round up. His paint jobs are beautiful.
> 
> This is a photo I took of one of Alan's bikes on a sunrise ride to the top of Mount Barnaby in Marin County, around 1977. He's had thirty more years since then to perfect his art, as if it wasn't already perfect then.


Love that picture. Thanks for all you share with us here.


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## ericb49 (Aug 11, 2006)

CK - Alan built a replica of that blue bike...it's coming out west next week 










I'll bring it to the FTF


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Oh my!!!!!!


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Eric, you always get the cool stuff.
I need a bigger allowance, or cooler friends.
Great Klunkers.
I really enjoy this topic every time it comes up. 
Thanks for the photo's


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## scooderdude (Sep 27, 2004)

ericb49 said:


> CK - Alan built a replica of that blue bike...it's coming out west next week
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That bike may also make it to the May 3 Toro park DH races, Monterey area (across from Laguna Seca aka Sea Otter Classic venue).

This bike will be there, too. :thumbsup:


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## scant (Jan 5, 2004)

ericb49 said:


> CK - Alan built a replica of that blue bike...it's coming out west next week
> 
> 
> 
> ...


does the front mech actually make that shift? looks like a massive difference between chainring sizes?


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

I see you built up the new drums. How are they working for you?



scooderdude said:


> That bike may also make it to the May 3 Toro park DH races, Monterey area (across from Laguna Seca aka Sea Otter Classic venue).
> 
> This bike will be there, too. :thumbsup:


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## ericb49 (Aug 11, 2006)

scant said:


> does the front mech actually make that shift? looks like a massive difference between chainring sizes?


Yes, it IS a big jump - funny that was also my first reaction when I first saw the bike LOL - Alan says it works so nuff said.



jeff said:


> (scooterdude) I see you built up the new drums. How are they working for you?


check out the scooterdude page we put on Alan's site :thumbsup:


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## scooderdude (Sep 27, 2004)

jeff said:


> I see you built up the new drums. How are they working for you?


Pretty good, I'd say. They're no discs, but have good modulation for the first few seconds of use, before starting to fade at high speeds.

And, good enough to win DH races at Toro against suspended and disc-braked modern bikes, not to mention much younger motors. And fast enough to have made the podium in EVERY Expert class at the April 11th race based on its race time in the Open single-speed class. LOL :thumbsup:


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

scooderdude said:


> Pretty good, I'd say. They're no discs, but have good modulation for the first few seconds of use, before starting to fade at high speeds.
> 
> And, good enough to win DH races at Toro against suspended and disc-braked modern bikes, not to mention much younger motors. And fast enough to have made the podium in EVERY Expert class at the April 11th race based on its race time in the Open single-speed class. LOL :thumbsup:


Great picture. You're a bad ass!


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

You're serious? Damn! I bow to thee and kiss thy ring.

Jeff


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## scooderdude (Sep 27, 2004)

jeff said:


> You're serious? Damn! I bow to thee and kiss thy ring.
> 
> Jeff


Thanks! And all the time I'm just having fun and uncorking the potential in the bike. I'm as shocked as anyone about its prowess at this venue.


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## scooderdude (Sep 27, 2004)

CS2 said:


> Great picture. You're a bad ass!


I'm humbled.

Just having fun with it!


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

*Pre-war Fleet straigth-bar*

You guys have really given me the bug to build a klunker (at least a poor man's klunker)

I scooped this up on CL yesterday, and found what I think is a Schwinn Sidewinder fork except it's painted blue?

Anybody know what a "Fleet" is? I can't find much with google... maybe a relative of a Schwinn?


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Don't get caught up in the headbadge. You have a prewar Schwinn there. Probably a 37ish Motorbike without looking at the Schwinn catalogs. 
Enjoy the build,
T


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## Repack Rider (Oct 22, 2005)

It's a big score and you couldn't do better for a klunker start -- for any amount of money. The same models were sold under a lot of names, and you got the Holy Grail.

Here is Alan Bonds' collection of head badges. Note the similarities.










Pretty sure you didn't stumble across that anywhere near where I live.

How about keeping the original fork and adding fork braces?


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

I blame you and your friends Charlie for liking the Excelsior badge the most. Those are all cool though.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

Repack Rider said:


> It's a big score and you couldn't do better for a klunker start -- for any amount of money. The same models were sold under a lot of names, and you got the Holy Grail.
> 
> Here is Alan Bonds' collection of head badges. Note the similarities.
> 
> ...


Cool -- thanks for the info. The any "amount of money" comment makes me feel better about spending $80 on my poor man's project.

I bought it on the other side of Michigan from where I live and will pick it up in a week or so. So it sounds like I can track down the year as a Schwinn serial number?

Pardon my ignorance, but is that the original fork? And what is a fork brace?

I know these aren't nearly old enough for a faithful klunker, but these are the cranks I found.


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

You better go get that thing today because a half a dozen people have read this post now and are finding the seller to offer twice what you paid......

You are lucky I live in Washington.....

Enjoy your build,
T


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## Repack Rider (Oct 22, 2005)

J_Westy said:


> Pardon my ignorance, but is that the original fork? And what is a fork brace?
> 
> I know these aren't nearly old enough for a faithful klunker, but these are the cranks I found


The fork looks original, and if it is it is worth keeping. "Fork braces" were the largely cosmetic rods that went from the dropouts to the top of the headset and stiffened the wimpy old fork a little. Far higher on the klunker coolness scale than a new aftermarket fork.

Your '70s Campagnolo crankset may work for you in your part of the world, but the typical gearing (52/42) wouldn't be low enough for Marin County hills, and the usual 170mm length would be a little short for big climbs. If it works for you, it is a piece of jewelry far nicer than the TA cranksets that adorned all the '70s Marin klunkers. The choice of TA cranks for Marin klunkers was because they came in lengths up to 185mm and inner rings as small as 26T, both helpful in getting these heavy bikes up very steep hills of the sort you don't have to deal with

Rather than brazing on cantilevers, I would go with drums front and rear.

If I had seen a bike like that, I would have grabbed it in a heartbeat.


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## Repack Rider (Oct 22, 2005)

Just one more thing. When you remove that 'heart and star" inch-pitch crankset, it is pretty good trade bait. Don't give it up cheap.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

Repack Rider said:


> The fork looks original, and if it is it is worth keeping. "Fork braces" were the largely cosmetic rods that went from the dropouts to the top of the headset and stiffened the wimpy old fork a little. Far higher on the klunker coolness scale than a new aftermarket fork.
> 
> Your '70s Campagnolo crankset may work for you in your part of the world, but the typical gearing (52/42) wouldn't be low enough for Marin County hills, and the usual 170mm length would be a little short for big climbs. If it works for you, it is a piece of jewelry far nicer than the TA cranksets that adorned all the '70s Marin klunkers. The choice of TA cranks for Marin klunkers was because they came in lengths up to 185mm and inner rings as small as 26T, both helpful in getting these heavy bikes up very steep hills of the sort you don't have to deal with
> 
> ...


Thanks for the training. I'll keep my eyes out for some braces.

The cranks are actually Japanese Stronglight knock-offs -- SR Apex ca.1980 -- but you're right -- 170 mm and only 48/42 chainrings (not my actual cranks above.. actual one is below...hasn't arrived from my ebay seller yet). They should be okay for most of the riding I'll do in MI.










I'd really like to do drums, but I'm on a low budget so I can't to a faithful build.. at least all at once. I'm thinking I'll just go coaster brake for now and get a velosteel rear hub.

Here's the rest of what I've accumulated.

Araya 26x1.75 rims (not sure which model these are. only $30)










NOS Shimano BMX front hub. $7.50










BMX Cruiser Fork (I think early '80's Schwinn, but I'm not sure. $15 at LBS)










Tioga Bottom Bracket. $14










Pedals from the basement.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

Aemmer said:


> You better go get that thing today because a half a dozen people have read this post now and are finding the seller to offer twice what you paid......
> 
> You are lucky I live in Washington.....
> 
> ...




It's paid for... hopefully the seller isn't unscrupulous


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## Repack Rider (Oct 22, 2005)

The new fork is a hideous color, so since you're going to have to repaint it, you might as well put on the cantilevers and paint the fork to match the frame. If that is the original frame paint, keep it like it is. Keep your old fork original, without the cantilever mounts, for the time when you get the Union drum front brake and the set of fork braces.

I can't tell what kind of coaster brake you have, but if it's New Departure, throw it away. Anything else, most likely Bendix, is very cool. Keep those original wheels.


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## flatblackkustoms (Oct 13, 2009)

*"klunker" Build.......*

I have been collecting parts to build a klunker as close to "correct" for the time as possible and I think I might just be ready to build!

I scored this frame on craigslist for $30 !

















CAMPAGNOLO "BENOTTO" cranks.









UKAI 26 x 2.125 w/Sturmey Archer drum brake....









Tange TRX forks...









It's not a BROOKES, but it will work!









I will be posting new photos through out the build....ENJOY! GERRY D.


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## flatblackkustoms (Oct 13, 2009)

scooderdude said:


> Pretty good, I'd say. They're no discs, but have good modulation for the first few seconds of use, before starting to fade at high speeds.
> 
> And, good enough to win DH races at Toro against suspended and disc-braked modern bikes, not to mention much younger motors. And fast enough to have made the podium in EVERY Expert class at the April 11th race based on its race time in the Open single-speed class. LOL :thumbsup:


VERY NICE ! Do you know if there is a klunker race circuit? GERRY D.


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Great start. Cool stuff. Start your own thread and give us a play by play of putting it all together. Klunker builds are fun to watch take shape. Everyone has their own distinct concept of what is the way it should be. I like where you are going, Enjoy the build....


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

flatblackkustoms said:


> I have been collecting parts to build a klunker as close to "correct" for the time as possible and I think I might just be ready to build!
> 
> I scored this frame on craigslist for $30 !
> 
> I will be posting new photos through out the build....ENJOY! GERRY D.


Great start and excellent price on the frame!

Is it an Auto Cycle frame? Seem to look like this one: http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1893_1940/1936_autocycle.html

Keep us posted on the build.


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## repackpioneer (Mar 26, 2007)

if you want to put disc brakes on the rear of an old schwinn, go with postwar frames. that way the forward facing dropout will more closely resemble current applications. It's also more consistent with post mounted brakes (V or canti) but so far I've stuck to doing it the hard way (prewar - rear slotted dropouts). The problem here is the axle will need to be set to the same spot each time for proper adjustment - I'm sure that's why they put setting pins on them. Prices are all over the scale but usually you'll have to pay to play. We rode our clunkers all over the hills, up and down, so they got the same usage a mtb gets today I hardly ever use my rear brake and any technology would probably work fine. A better idea is get a 26" bmx 'cruiser' class fork and put the disc there. The word clunker originated with the guys that put dual brakes and multiple gears on their old frames - not the coaster brake crowd, they called their bikes 'bombers'. If you ever watched them try to slow for a corner you'd understand why.


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## Repack Rider (Oct 22, 2005)

Alan,

Wednesday was the 33rd anniversary of the first Repack race. I took a run with a few friends, and posted a thread on the NorCal section.


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## sandmangts (Feb 16, 2004)

I just missed a 38 or 39 La Salle today. It sold for 20 dollars but it was terribly rusted so it is probably a good thing I missed it. I did score a nice schwinn paramount with all xt m730 parts and Ritchey Vantage rims on xt hubs all in very nice shape. cranks, thumbies, levers and deraillers all look almost NOS. I now have all the parts I need to complete my Timber Comp.


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## 69clunker40CWC (Aug 12, 2014)

*1940 CWC Clunker*

If you want a "cruiser" based Clunker then one of the best is a Schwinn DX frame as it has a fairly high bottom bracket. This frame was highly sought after in the 70s for building a clunker. The 39 - 40 CWC (Cleveland Welding Company) frame is similar to the DX but I don't think it has as high a bottom bracket. My CWC has alloy wheels, a modern SA front drum brake and a Nexus coster brake 3 speed to easily accommodate the one piece crank. I ran it for a summer without a front brake but even the wimpy SA drum is a must as it makes the bike much more rideable. Because of the weakness of the front drum, the coaster brake is still your main brake. It weighs 38 pounds, over 40 with 2 water bottles, but I don't mind. I have an old rear drum brake that I may lace up someday but I really like the Nexus and so far it has lasted for 400 miles of single track use. It has a 30's Colson forged truss rod fork that works like a dream. It rides surprisingly well but could benefit from more gears and I may go the the rear drum with a multi speed cluster if the Nexus gives out. I had knobby tires on it but I didn't like the look. With the street wide whites on it I can't tell the difference in performance except on wet smooth roots and low speed banked uphill hairpin sandy turns. I loose traction in both cases. I use my mountain bike if it is raining or just go slower on the banked sand.


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## rev106 (Jul 9, 2009)

J_Westy said:


> Thanks for the training. I'll keep my eyes out for some braces.
> 
> The cranks are actually Japanese Stronglight knock-offs -- SR Apex ca.1980 -- but you're right -- 170 mm and only 48/42 chainrings (not my actual cranks above.. actual one is below...hasn't arrived from my ebay seller yet). They should be okay for most of the riding I'll do in MI.
> 
> ...


Sweet!


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## rev106 (Jul 9, 2009)

Did you also look at the massive "cruiser thread" for inspiration, it could take hours!


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## 69clunker40CWC (Aug 12, 2014)

Wow 185 mm cranks. On my clunker I hit the ground on some of our narrow single track that are worn to a groove with the 165mm cranks. I use 152mm and don't have a problem now. The bottom bracket is low on a lot of these cruisers. My 1959 Schwinn Corvette just allows little more than my foot for clearance with the standard 165. I wish I knew the BB clearance on these old frames before I buy them. Perhaps originally the clunker folks didn't use them for climbing rock gardens and deep ruts and roots? Our biggest climb is 600 feet over three quarters of a mile and I can climb it on my 40 pound clunker with a 152mm crank, but that is about it. I am 69 years old so I probably can't keep this up much longer, but I really like clunkers, I just wish I had a lighter frame with a higher bottom bracket.


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## rismtb (Dec 11, 2012)

Hello, I want to build a cool klunker ride. I saw this bike which had been listed for 20 days no bites so the guy was easy to grind. I thought hey I don't know dick about cruisers but those bars and fork look like they would go good on a boys bike. Whats weird is the Schwinn ser # is G0185. In the registry it is listed as Dec 01 1952. The fork looks like the later Schwinn cruisers in the 60's. It is a girls 26" wheel bike that has a single speed freewheel but has braze ons for cable housing to a rear deraileur? should I junk the frame?? and is the fork a rare bird? seems a little early for a koshi inspired straight tube fork with offset? Any cruiser advice/info much appreciated


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