# *Really Need Help!* Trek 8000



## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

*Good To Go: Trek 8000*

I have been searching for a vintage MTB to build a 26" commuter and I think I just found what I was looking for!!! I was at the local bike depository and found this 1988 Trek 8000 for 40 smackers. I know, some of you are probably thinking that was too much for a 20 year old aluminum frame, but I got a vision for this thing.

I also know It's nothing spectacular, but it did come with some pretty neat vintage stuff, like XT rear der, brake levers, friction shifters and headset. It also has a true temper straight bar, and ritchey force stem with integrated cable hanger. But what I'm really excited about is the Tange Presitge straight blade fork. Look at that thing, it's a work of art! Anyway, I plan to strip it down to the frame build it up with some cool stuff I got lying around. I'll keep this updated as I go through the build. Please feel free to post ideas for my project. Biggest issue I'm concerned about is the rear brake bosses being on the bottom of the chain stays. Now, I'm off to the store for some paint stripper!


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

That's a great pickup for $40.


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## pinguwin (Aug 20, 2004)

Nothing wrong with an average bike from 1988. That fork alone is worth $40. BTW, the fork is a Tange Switchblade. You can search for it on this group. Tange licensed the design from Bontrager (when Keith Bontrager was still in charge). I've got two Tanges, one similar to yours and the other a silver chrome. Have 1.5 Bontrager Comps too.


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## sandmangts (Feb 16, 2004)

Those thumbies are almost worth what you paid and that fork is very nice. If you need a U-brake I think I have one. Not pretty but it will stop you. Pm me and I will send it to you, just cover the postage.


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## Zanetti (Sep 18, 2005)

Sizzler said:


> Now, I'm off to the store for some paint stripper!


:eekster:

That frame is bonded (glued) together. Chemical paint stripper may not be the best choice.


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

pinguwin: thanks for the fork info, I thought it looked like a bonti but I didn't want to assume anything. 

sandman: thanks for the offer, i will PM you.

zanetti: i stripped an aluminum 91 without any negative long term effects. my feeling is that the frame is near functionally worthless, so if it does fall apart then I will just use the parts on something else. but thanks for looking out for me!


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## ish (Jun 17, 2009)

Great find for $40. The components alone are worth quite a bit more than that. It will build into a great commuter and shift really well.

I would pull the fork off and use it for another project... too nice for a commuter, IMO.


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

i love having cool commuter components because you get to look at them and enjoy their quality for a couple hours every day. plus, i have the luxury of keeping my commuting bikes indoors so they should be quiet safe, but I will agree that it's a shame to see them wear over time.


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

When stripping paint, it's good to get something so toxic that it's only legal in certain areas. For my bottle of jasco, I had to go to a hardware store in the next town over.


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

It's also good to have some friends help out. For this project, I invited Crow, Tom Servo and Mike. Joel popped in a little later.


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

Most came off okay, but it's slow going around the joints. I will pop out the headset cups and finish it with a toothbrush tomorrow.


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## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

I feel mildly naughty, like I'm in the basement of some gentlemans club in Vegas....


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

Ummmm, wasn't the 1988 Trek 8000 a welded frame? They went to bonding when they started using the Easton E9 ProGram aluminium, which was 7075.


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

After taking apart and cleaning everything, I started putting the bike back together and was very pleased with the look. I also got lucky with a few things, like finding a 35mm LX front derailleur, being able to use the seat and post from my Santa Cruz and finding that Cinelli bar caps fit perfectly in the switchblade holes.


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

I threw on some 26" wheels, but it just didn't look right. :idea: 

I thew on some 700c wheels, and it suddenly looked awesome, perfect for commuting!

But now I have a problem (you can probably guess) and I need your help. I again lucked out because the rear triangle has a place to mount a brake. However, the switchblade is another matter. Are there any brakes designed to accommodate a 700c wheel on a 26" fork? I vaguely remember something about Pauls making something like that, but I don't remember specifics. Also, this was a mostly spare parts project so I would like to avoid a 100$ brake. However, I would really appreciate hearing any ideas you have, even expensive ones.


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## da'HOOV (Jan 3, 2009)

I just noticed the downtube shifter mount points...?


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

da'HOOV said:


> I just noticed the downtube shifter mount points...?


yeah, those suck. they are just little plastic caps and the shifter mounts underneath are a bit loose, so it will be interesting to see what happens when supporting tension. At the same time, I'm glad it came with them, one less thing to have to find.


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## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

I have to say it's pretty cool seeing someone hauling ass through a project and posting near real-time. I'm expecting to see that thing complete by the end of the weekend.


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

okay, now i really need help because I no longer have any idea what i'm doing. i feel like i'm flying by the seat of my spandex with this project. i picked up this brake set at the same place as the bike frame for only 3$ because they look awesome and will work for a 700c wheel on a 26" frame, but they are clearly missing some crucial things. Does anyone know how these things are supposed to work? Do they simply work off friction to hold the spring in place? Anyone???

Edit: I should also mention that the springs are from a different set of brakes, but they seem similar enough to work.


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Those look pretty sweet. I am guessing the arms slide over the sleeve/spring pieces which slide over the canti posts? If so there should be somewhere for the wire/spring to catch. Looks like there is a hole in the cross-bar section of the arms, that's probably your road to freedom. You'll need some noodles too.


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## banks (Feb 2, 2004)

You can use a Paul Moto BMX caliper for the front brake, but since you have a U brake under the chainstays, you would have to go with a rear drum brake if you needed to run a 700c rear wheel..


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

banks said:


> You can use a Paul Moto BMX caliper for the front brake, but since you have a U brake under the chainstays, you would have to go with a rear drum brake if you needed to run a 700c rear wheel..


i remember some conversion plate that would let you get away w/ 700c rim brake wheels on 26in frames....


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## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

colker1 said:


> i remember some conversion plate that would let you get away w/ 700c rim brake wheels on 26in frames....


This
http://webcyclery.com/product.php?productid=17608&cat=0&page=1

but I like his better (if he can get them working).


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

i got the rear covered: i'm using a dia-comp bulldog brake that I had leftover from my bmx days. the front is coming together as well, but it's very slow going and I'm not sure how well it will work. I'll have to run to the hardware store again for some parts to make it happen. thanks for the ideas, and I appreciate nobody burning me for building a completely mixed up, dysfunctional bike!


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## mechagouki (Nov 30, 2007)

This is such an appropriate thread for Hallowe'en


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

you could go faster if you didn't break at all...
actually i liked how you got away w/ the rear brake. 
and that's a nice project. not dysfunctional at all.


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## da'HOOV (Jan 3, 2009)

colker1 said:


> you could go faster if you didn't break at all...
> actually i liked how you got away w/ the rear brake.
> and that's a nice project. not dysfunctional at all.


It looks like the cable mount (on the rear brake) sticks out quite a bit...chainline or heel problems? hope it works 

edit...oops..thought it was chainstay mounted...duh


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

no posts? no problem! thanks again for all your suggestions, I think I'm on the home stretch. I will post again when it's finished, hopefully tomorrow if everything goes right (which it won't).


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