# Torque Wrench suggestions?



## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

Torque Wrench suggestions anyone? 
Specific models please?


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## salsamoto (Dec 20, 2007)

We have 2 of these but it's the origin 8 brand ones. Amazon.com: VENZO Bicycle Bike Torque Wrench Allen Key Tool Socket Set Kit: Sports & Outdoors


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

Very nice Thanks!!!
Salsa!


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## FastZR1 (Aug 10, 2008)

I have a couple Craftsman TQ wrenches. 1/4 and 3/8" drives for working on bikes in my garage. I have a little 5mm Ritchy TQ key on my work bench too for quick use.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

I see this craftsman is also about the same price of $60-70 
so I may probably buy that one.
I know the warranty and probably QC is good on the craftsman for the long run.

Craftsman Torque Micro-Clicker Wrench: Get Multiple Jobs Done at Sears


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

I'll probably get one of these two for bikes after all. lol

Park Tool TW-5 Torque Wrench 

Spin Doctor Torque Wrench Set


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

I've been really happy with the pair of gear wrench torque wrenches. I've got the 85051 for smaller stuff and a 85052 for bottom brackets and single bolt crank arms. Had a pair of the Craftsmen ones and the locking collar broke, wouldn't warranty and they became hard to use. If you're looking for a basic set the PRO kit for Shimano works pretty damn well for almost all of your bike stuff and comes with bits that aren't crap for ~$120. I keep one of these in my travel box when I have to fly because it's light and compact. 

If you're looking online you can get the gear wrench for about the same price as the Park, and it's 3 times the tool. I don't have any tools from bike companies that are not bike specific. There are better tools for the same money from general purpose tool brands.


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## steveohio (Dec 6, 2013)

1/4" Torque Wrench - 20-200 in. lbs.

$22, Lifetime warranty. Bike shop I frequent near me uses the same one.

I just picked one up for my bike. I see no reason to spend 3 to 10x more for something that does the same thing. If this breaks, run back to the store and swap it out sameday, for free.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

good suggestions!


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## LarryFahn (Jul 19, 2005)

steveohio said:


> 1/4" Torque Wrench - 20-200 in. lbs.
> 
> $22, Lifetime warranty. Bike shop I frequent near me uses the same one.
> 
> I just picked one up for my bike. I see no reason to spend 3 to 10x more for something that does the same thing. If this breaks, run back to the store and swap it out sameday, for free.


Why buy a bike that's 3 to 10x more than a Huffy? You get what you pay for.

Fwiw, I looked at buying one about 2 years ago. What turned me away? The top of the packaging said 50-250 in/lb. But the side of the package said 50-250 ft/lb +/- 5% If they can't differentiate foot vs inch on the same package... 
The Craftsman one has a way to send it back to get it recalibrated and a protective case that won't let you store it if it has too much tension on it. You're supposed to store it without tension. Ttyl, Fahn


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

Larry, good points.
Please be sure to include which craftsman unit your referring to though.
Because there are some newer ones labeled Craftsmen that are made in china with 90 day warranties and fail often.


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## steveohio (Dec 6, 2013)

You only think you get what you pay for. In most cases you don't. There's this little thing called the point of diminishing returns. Your little metaphor of a huffy vs a higher priced bike has 0 merit in this discussion.

Sure, the harbor freight stuff isn't Snap on or Matco but guess what, we aren't all professional bike shops and don't need to use it on a daily basis, but even if we are, my bike shop uses this thing, and is rated as one of the best shops in the area. If they are content with it with far greater use than I would need, then whats the issue? 

If all your doing is tightening a few bolts once or twice a year, does that warrant spending $100+ dollars on something that does the same thing, are people on the interwebs gonna think i'm a baller cause my torque wrench cost X times more?


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## NorCalTaz (Nov 12, 2013)

LarryFahn said:


> Why buy a bike that's 3 to 10x more than a Huffy? You get what you pay for.
> 
> Fwiw, I looked at buying one about 2 years ago. What turned me away? The top of the packaging said 50-250 in/lb. But the side of the package said 50-250 ft/lb +/- 5% If they can't differentiate foot vs inch on the same package...


I just went by Harbor Freight and checked this one out, was told it measured in in/lbs which may not be a big deal, I checked online at Inch-Pounds to Foot-Pounds Conversion Calculator and it came up with 1 inch-pounds = 0.083333333 foot-pounds


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## evrac (Sep 28, 2005)

I just bought this:

Topeak® Cycling Accessories ? Products - D-Torq Wrench DX

from Chain reaction cycles.
Wanted the nicest torque wrench I could find.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

i'm gonna try the harbor freight torque wrench.. i'd imagine that 35ft.lbs. is close to the middle of the range.. thats what is IMHO what matters when it comes to torquing something.


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## Brockwan (Aug 6, 2013)

Just picked up the park tool tw5 for 77 bucks all in off eBay. It's more than others but I have yet to read a bad review on it and for home mechanics like I'm doing it's an investment. 
There's a few left on there too just search park tool torque wrench then sort by lowest price and shipping. 
Lifetime Warantys are good if it's going to break. I'd rather have a good tool. This will do me good I have no doubts. Quality over quantity so to speak.

http://www.parktool.com/product/ratcheting-click-type-torque-wrench-tw-5

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## Brockwan (Aug 6, 2013)

steveohio said:


> all your doing is tightening a few bolts once or twice a year, does that warrant spending $100+ dollars on something that does the same thing, are people on the interwebs gonna think i'm a baller cause my torque wrench cost X times more?


How do you know op is just doing a few bolts a year? If you are maintaining your bike properly it should be a few more times than that. A good tool will last you, it's an investment, so you can use it for years and years long term. Not just a few times for a few years or whenever the pos breaks on you.

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## xycarp (Apr 9, 2011)

salsamoto said:


> We have 2 of these but it's the origin 8 brand ones. Amazon.com: VENZO Bicycle Bike Torque Wrench Allen Key Tool Socket Set Kit: Sports & Outdoors


I bought the same one a couple f weeks ago. I have only used it a few time so far, but it is quite nice. It comes with all the bits I need. So far so good.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

Brockwan said:


> How do you know op is just doing a few bolts a year? If you are maintaining your bike properly it should be a few more times than that. A good tool will last you, it's an investment, so you can use it for years and years long term. Not just a few times for a few years or whenever the pos breaks on you.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


No one is investing in any of the torque wrenches included on this page. If I was building bikes and doing consistent work I would touch any of these. I'd go buy a high quality torque wrench from Mac or snap on, gear wrench ect.

That reminds me. If anyone works somewhere that has a tool truck stopping by talk to the tool man. They will usually take your info and what you are looking for and give you a line when they get used tools in.

My 1/2 torque wrench I got off the snap on truck for $80. Guy traded it in for a digi unit for $50 credit and snap on man sold it to me for $80. Lifetime warranty. Rebuild able. Win win win.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

jkidd_39 said:


> i'm gonna try the harbor freight torque wrench.. i'd imagine that 35ft.lbs. is close to the middle of the range.. thats what is IMHO what matters when it comes to torquing something.


Test it, they can be wildly inaccurate.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

AZ said:


> Test it, they can be wildly inaccurate.


I will. Got a 35lb weight to test then torque bb to 35ft.lbs.


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## SeaHag (Jul 14, 2011)

If you're worried about accuracy, believe it or not the deflecting beam torque wrenches are your best long term bet. If you insist on the click type, make sure you back off the pressure on the spring before you store it to prevent fatigue; which will ruin it's accuracy.

The only reason you'd NEED a click/snap release torque wrench is when reaching into a blind access area where you cannot read the dial on the wrench. I've never run into that situation while working on bicycles or motorcycles. You'll save a bunch of money initially and if you take care of it over the long term you can pretty much forget about having it recalibrated as they are incredibly accurate and there is no adjustment for recalibration anyway.

I calibrated thousands of torque wrenches while serving in the US NAVY and had maybe one or two deflecting beam torque wrench come in out of spec. Comparably, almost every single snap action wrench I checked needed some adjustment to reach the +/- 4% accuracy. Another note for those not aware, torque wrenches can not be guaranteed accurate in the bottom or top 10% of range. So if you need to torque to 10 in/lbs do not buy a 0-100 in/lb wrench.

Sorry to tell you guys who dump big money into your tools; but Snap-On and MAC tools weren't any more accurate in my experience. I've read many accounts of Harbor Freight customers having their tools checked for accuracy and they came out good. YRMV


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## Brockwan (Aug 6, 2013)

jkidd_39 said:


> No one is investing in any of the torque wrenches included on this page.


I don't think that's true at all. You are now talking regarding the other end of the spectrum, where by we are going to use the tool professionally day in day out. To be an investment it doesn't have to be as you state it has to be. If someone pays extra for something that is of better quality that they will use a fair amount or more in the future, of course that is an investment. 
A mechanics investment in tools is different to a weekend family rider.

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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

OK,.. been reading this (and other past threads) on torque wrenches...

1st off, any one asking here is more than likely a home Mechanic.. Anyone in a shop working should get professional tools and others in the shop will have better recommendations than people blurbing here on the web. Thou there are more than a few Shop Mech's here the great majority isn't.. 

2nd Torque wrenches are a good tool to have, but "accuracy" within reason in a home environment will be varied more by cleanliness and other conditions other than the wrench it's self... Torque is used to measure turning resistance resulting in a clamping pressure when used on bikes,.. the problem is that just the Lock Tite many use on bolts lowers the torque-to-clamping force more than the out of spec a cheaper wench ever will.. and grease will often increase it more. A spec of dirt will bind the threads and increase the torque but actually lower the clamping... bla bla bla..

3rd, just a flux of 10 degrees in temperature will very a click type wrench by more than most specs

4th, torque wrenches on bike parts is more to get an "even" pressure.. the specs are very general and the few places you REALLY need to use one as long as all the bolts are all the same, being out a bit isn't going to make a particle of difference (again, with in reason) On chain ring bolts and such it's much more important all 4 (or 5) are all clamping evenly on the ring more than what that force actually is.

the few places a torque wrench is needed on a bike is to prevent OVER torquing which most people do when just hand tightening, few exceptions are Brake rotor bolts and threaded BB... everywhere else 90% of the time people are over tightening, and a torque wrench is used more to prevent threads from stripping.

When do you NEED a torque wrench? when clamping to Carbon fiber parts I Highly recommend torque wrenches, Stem cap to Handle bar, Chainring bolts... Brake rotors and calipers. Pretty much everywhere else it's not "needed" but hey.. it's an awesome idea to use it if you have the time and want to. Example,.. I absolutely use mine on my shifters, brake levers and stem cap holding my carbon bars... any time I work on cranks and rings (especially with Shimano crank arms with the dual sides bolting).. bla bla bla

Clean threads are more important than the quality of the torque wrench. Lock Tite sucks!! It works generally but when doing a repair/reassembly it leaves crunchy. crusty crap behind that is difficult to remove and will most likely leave you under clamped when the torque wrench says it's done. I use Only Plumber's tape now on everything but Brake rotors which the heat would melt.

I've been building and working on cars/dragster/bikes/motorcycles/back hoes and all kinds of machinery since the mid 70's I have extreme high end tools including torque wrenches... I also have the Harbor freight 1/4" torque wrench and ya know what.. it works fine on my bike and the bikes my friend have that I work on and share tools with.

As was stated above the bar/beam type are the best/most accurate.
also as others have said a "click" type absolutely needs to have the tension released after use/during storage

If you are going to be doing a LOT of bike work.. get a decent mid range wrench,.. otherwise get the one that you can afford, a cheapo one is still better than none at all.

If you have all the bits and such the Harbor Freight one works... if you don't the BBB, Venzo (and many other brand names pasted on it) one would probably be best... 
another thing to think about is the Venzo/BBB one is a good bit smaller than the Harbor Freight unit I have.. I kinda like it better for reading also... If I were to get a 2nd it would be that one.


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## LarryFahn (Jul 19, 2005)

Harbor freight - let's start here. 
Screwdrivers - handles spin while applying torque 
Hammers- you get a 10 pack on "sale" for $15. The grips fell off, the face was rounded on 2 and the head fell off one. 
Torque wrench - if it says in/lb on one side and ft/lb on the other of the same package, am I really going to trust it? 
Calipers- (cen-tech now Pittsburgh) turn them on and it will say 0.0005 zero it out, measure part, clean off the jaws and close them. It's off 0.0015. Every time you open and close them, you need to re-zero them. I work with people who use this junk every day. 
3/8 drive metric hexes- I bought a set of these cause they looked good and the chrome finish was nice. The 10mm one didn't fit into the pivot of my brand new Remedy. Yet the Craftsman one did, the Park one at the shop fit, and so did the Kobalt set. 
There's a reason those hexes were $5.99 for a set of 6-7 vs others charging $5-6 a piece. 

You do get what you pay for. Like it or not. Buy cheap, get cheap.

I'll have to see what the model number is on the wrench I bought. It's 2-3 years old, but it was made in the USA and had a way to return it for re-calibration. You can pick it up for around $80-90. The old school ones with the pointer are good to and a lot less expensive. Just bulkier. 
In an era where something on your bike is going to be carbon, torque is important. You decide. Ttyl, Fahn


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## steveohio (Dec 6, 2013)

I've never seen a 10 pack of hammers sold anywhere,certainly not Harbor Freight, ever. In fact I just looked at their site again just to make sure. The only hammers they even sell in multipacks are ball peen hammers, and its a 5 pack, and you do realize the face should be rounded on those, right?

My pittsburg calipers have no issues after years of use. I have verified their accuracy with other far more expensive ones in some of my customers auto repair shops
Do you just make up **** to fear monger people or what?

We have professional navy mechanics, bike shops and home mechanics, and I personally know a national Snap-on sales rep that have vouched for the quality and accuracy of them as well. 

Just because its cheap, doesn't mean its unuseable, inaccurate or going to break screwing in bolts at an extremely low torque. 

I could care less, its your money, and if you feel better about spending more have at it. But that whole, "you get what you pay for" crap, is not always true. Sometimes sure, maybe even a majority of the time, but not all the time.

Is Starbucks coffee 3x better than flavored gas station coffee as well? What about a McDonalds hamburger that costs more than a 100% real beef patty from a mom and pop grill?

I bet the corporate overlords love dudes like you. 
Its blanket thinking like that is the reason why bikes are now in the 5 figure range.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

I am thinking of buying that high end compact model one of these days so I can keep it in my riding pack too. 

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## LarryFahn (Jul 19, 2005)

You can use your generic stuff as long as you want (or until it breaks). But it's up to the buyer to decide. Torque wrenches can cost from $15 (at harbor freight) up to the high hundreds or more I'm sure. I doubt that the $15 is the best of the bunch. Lol! 

I'm pretty sure HF changes their inventory frequently. But I'm glad you spent your time checking for me. If I feel like wasting time when I get home, I'll post some pics. Fwiw, the face of a claw hammer was rounded... Off center too. Go figure. Ttyl, Fahn


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## Brockwan (Aug 6, 2013)

steveohio said:


> Is Starbucks coffee 3x better than flavored gas station coffee as well? What about a McDonalds hamburger that costs more than a 100% real beef patty from a mom and pop grill?
> 
> I bet the corporate overlords love dudes like you.
> Its blanket thinking like that is the reason why bikes are now in the 5 figure range.


1. Yes it usually is

2. What burger bar are you at that 100% beef burgers cost less than 99 cents?

3. My point - Ferraris are more expensive than minis, why? Accusing someone of the corporate bs above is a bit far don't you think? I agree with you that sometimes cheaper can be just as good but this is not common place in any means. That's why people talk to their mates about getting deals. Because they got something for less, it's a rarity and that's why the point is brought up in the first place. And I'm sorry when it comes to tools better tools cost more and that is fact.

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## Guest (Jan 11, 2014)

Regardless of the TQ Wrench you buy, I would spend the time to ensure it is set-up correctly (calibrated). Some torque values are pretty small and a little error can be a big set-back. I've got three. Two Craftsmen 3/8" units (the American made models) one in inch-pound and one in foot-pound (for higher torque applications) and cheap beam-type 1/2" unit for the really big stuff (not bike related). It's important that you remember which one you have and convert units appropriately. Also when you work with something like a crank where there are two bolts, work up to the final torque in steps to keep the crank arm (or other part) from being distorted or stressed.


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## steveohio (Dec 6, 2013)

Brockwan said:


> 1. Yes it usually is
> 
> 2. What burger bar are you at that 100% beef burgers cost less than 99 cents?
> 
> ...


#1 opinion based, not better. 
#2 come to Ohio, I'll show you a dozen places places I can get a burger/combo as much or cheaper than Mickey D's that's bigger, more healthy and legit beef. 
#3 I stated that more expensive isn't always better. In many cases it is. In many it isn't. The same products have different costs from different vendors, in that case, how is the more expensive version any better? - its not. This whole ''you get what you pay for'' mantra that's tossed around here is only used by those who seek to justify their purchase.

In everything, there's a something called the point of diminishing returns. Never once did I say that the stuff at harbor freight was any better than the primo high end brands, only that it does the same thing, and isn't a piece of unusable trash because its the cheapest.

If I sold you a Kia from $100,000 does it make it better than a $15,000 Honda? No, it doesn't. It just means it costs more. Every vendor, manufacturer, supplier, and retailer have different costs for everything, the ideal that if you pay more you get more is factually inaccurate in whole because of this. If you refuse to believe that's the case, then yes, you've been brainwashed by those very corporations that put a lot of money into marketing.

Case in point, Bose speakers. 
Ultra dated technology, they boost the power and change the frequency in their speakers to be able to put a higher rating on the box. They are seen as a high end product, when in fact they are absolute trash. Want to know why they are seen as a high end product? They spend more on advertising than EVERY speaker manufacturer combined. I do high end custom home theaters, I get tons of customers that request Bose, I refuse to sell it because the quality is dog **** compared to what a real surround sound system, at less money.

They aren't the only product out there relying on that same mindset.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

I am an audiophile for certain and have a very high opinion of expensive speakers... However they are over priced, Bose does make a few nice speakers. I agree they are often way overpriced... but they are not all trash. 
I get the point you meant to make, just a friendly word of caution in sweeping generalizations of an opinion.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

I found a unbeatable deal for the full kit of the (usually $200+) Giustaforza II 2-16 Torque Wrenc for $100
it was the last unit in stock on this one site.

The primary reason I chose this unit, is the portability.
I can easily keep it on the trail with me, esp. when I go on tuning session.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I got the "Spin Doctor" one from Performance...has worked great and was ~$60 if I recall. And BTW...I love my Harbor Freight Pittsburgh calipers


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## blackhammer (Jun 28, 2009)

I'm building my first high-end carbon dream bike for myself over the winter. I knew when I bought the frame that I was going to need a good torque wrench as the one I had is untrustworthy. I won't mention the brand because I'm not trying to get into that argument. After researching here on mtbr and elsewhere, I went with the beam style Park TW2. I am not a professional mechanic. I'm a hack. Consequently, the simpler, more accurate, and reliable, the better off I am.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

Loving this Giustaforza II 
This thing is obviously worth some money when you hold it and use it.
Precision is great!
Size is Great!
Kit with the bits is awesome!


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## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

No audiophile thinks Bose are any good.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

You said it. pricks do think they know it all... so true.

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## eonicks (Mar 3, 2011)

Trail_Blazer said:


> I found a unbeatable deal for the full kit of the (usually $200+) Giustaforza II 2-16 Torque Wrenc for $100
> it was the last unit in stock on this one site.
> 
> The primary reason I chose this unit, is the portability.
> I can easily keep it on the trail with me, esp. when I go on tuning session.


Where'd you get it?


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

I bought it online by Google shopping search to find the cheapest closeout price on the net.

Then I requested a price match on JensonUSA.com

They granted the price match and I ordered it.

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## MTBeing (Jan 11, 2012)

salsamoto said:


> We have 2 of these but it's the origin 8 brand ones. Amazon.com: VENZO Bicycle Bike Torque Wrench Allen Key Tool Socket Set Kit: Sports & Outdoors


Second this wholeheartedly! I have used this for torquing most bolts on my bike, including the carbon seat post. Works great, but remember to loosen the handle tension for any torque wrench prior to storage. This allows the spring to relax to its normal state.


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## swildnm (Aug 23, 2012)

CDI Torque 1501MRPH 1/4-Inch Drive Adjustable Micrometer Torque Wrench, Torque Range 20 to 150-Inch - Amazon.com

$88 for a quality, (mostly) US made torque wrench.
It has a Newton Meter scale as well.
from the research I have done, CDI Torque makes all the Snap-On torque wrenches,the only difference is the Taiwanese made ratchet head. CDI is owned by Snap-On and is their "industrial" torque brand. I have three CDI torque wrenches they are all very well made and with proper care have remained accurate for years.


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## mtb_beginner (Jul 20, 2013)

I tried using a Pittsburgh Pro torque wrench (from Harbor Freight) yesterday and I swear I will never use one for a bike again. I broke a screwhead off my daughter's bike with it, and almost broke the seat collar on my new bike. It could break anything at 20 in lb (2.3 Nm) setting.

I know many would say it's because I went with a cheap wrench. But that experience left a pretty bad taste in my mouth. I never had any issues using ordinary L-shaped hex wrenches, relying on the feel of the tightness.


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## Brockwan (Aug 6, 2013)

mtb_beginner said:


> I tried using a Pittsburgh Pro torque wrench (from Harbor Freight) yesterday and I swear I will never use one for a bike again. I broke a screwhead off my daughter's bike with it, and almost broke the seat collar on my new bike. It could break anything at 20 in lb (2.3 Nm) setting.
> 
> I know many would say it's because I went with a cheap wrench. But that experience left a pretty bad taste in my mouth. I never had any issues using ordinary L-shaped hex wrenches, relying on the feel of the tightness.


if you broke those parts could you not tell how hard you were tightening it by feel?


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## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

Can't believe people install fancy bike parts with slave made torque wrenches. I've never broken anything on a bike or car going by feel.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Brockwan said:


> if you broke those parts could you not tell how hard you were tightening it by feel?


Just a wild guess here, but most small torque wrenches are at least 12 inches long, whereas you average 4/5mm hex wrench is only 4 or 5 inches long. Makes a big difference in perceived effort.


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

Brockwan said:


> if you broke those parts could you not tell how hard you were tightening it by feel?


ya, sorry mtb_beginner but gunna have to agree with Brockwam on this one.. the click on those is rather subtile and if you were twisting so hard you broke the screw then you should have been able to notice you'd gone beyond and stopped.. 90% of the bike's torque specs are WAY under what most people do by hand, not more.


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## mtb_beginner (Jul 20, 2013)

Brockwan said:


> if you broke those parts could you not tell how hard you were tightening it by feel?


I got used to the feel of hex wrenches having lengths of 2 to 3 inches only, while the torque wrench had an approximate length of 12 inches. The significant increase in leverage with a very long wrench handle gave me a wrong impression of lightness in driving the screw. Plus, I was fixated on waiting for that "clicking" action of the wrench, which I believe is grossly inaccurate.

For me, long wrenches work good only for big nuts & bolts, and similar stuffs. I will never use one again when driving 5mm or smaller screws.

BTW, I've been in RC hobbies for 8 years now and never found myself giving too much or too little torque driving screws <1mm to 5mm in size using ordinary hex wrenches. I've been doing it on plastics, aluminum, CF, and fiberglass materials.


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## mtb_beginner (Jul 20, 2013)

For whatever reason, the last part of my previous post got truncated. I meant to say I never had issues driving screws with sizes less than 1mm to 6mm, using regular hex wrenches. That's in my RC hobby experience.

I've used them on plastics, aluminum, CF, and fiberglass materials without overtightening the screws. Just going by the feel.


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## mtb_beginner (Jul 20, 2013)

wschruba said:


> Just a wild guess here, but most small torque wrenches are at least 12 inches long, whereas you average 4/5mm hex wrench is only 4 or 5 inches long. Makes a big difference in perceived effort.


Exactly.


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## mtb_beginner (Jul 20, 2013)

SS Hack said:


> ... I've never broken anything on a bike or car going by feel.


Me too...until I tried using a wrench that doesn't work correctly.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

I really have to say, even though ratcheting torque wrenches are nice for the speed you can work at, beam type wrenches do not suffer from that specific (and their biggest, in my opinion) drawback. Unless you have a digital torque wrench, until the clutch slips, you only have a vague idea of how much torque is on the bolt. For most people, who aren't limited by time, there is almost no reason, other than convenience, to get a 'click' type wrench.

Also, the 'click' is very vague lower in the wrench's range, excellent point, and important to remember.


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## FireLikeIYA (Mar 15, 2009)

Precision Instruments and CDI (owned by Snap-on) make decent torque wrenches. Digital ones are nice but unless you use it all the time expect to replace the battery when you most need it. Digital and split beam click type do not need to be recalibrated. Some have a 15 degree flex head which are awesome but probably not necessary for a bike. The most accurate will be dial type torque wrenches but they are several hundred dollars. Beam torque wrenches are cheap and precise but you have to have a straight on view to eliminate parallax error (get one with a mirror on the scale).


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## Ridefat1981 (Mar 17, 2014)

Avenir makes a really nice one hat comes in a hard case and is easily adjustable and comes with a few hex bits and a t25.


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## JerB (Jul 10, 2012)

When it comes to torue wrenches guys do you go with 1/2 or a 3/8 dive? I see alot of torque values varies on them. I guess If I needed one ( which I dont, just trying to learn as I go along ) Just dot know what one is applicable to bikes in terms of torque values.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

I'd like to know the best torque range to get as well, especially if one was to buy just one wrench.


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## FireLikeIYA (Mar 15, 2009)

JerB said:


> When it comes to torue wrenches guys do you go with 1/2 or a 3/8 dive? I see alot of torque values varies on them. I guess If I needed one ( which I dont, just trying to learn as I go along ) Just dot know what one is applicable to bikes in terms of torque values.


I have a 1/2" and a 3/8". I mostly use the 3/8" but at times I've needed a smaller 1/4". The 1/2" is only used on occasion. I really just have the 1/2" for working on cars.


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## JerB (Jul 10, 2012)

FireLikeIYA said:


> I have a 1/2" and a 3/8". I mostly use the 3/8" but at times I've needed a smaller 1/4". The 1/2" is only used on occasion. I really just have the 1/2" for working on cars.


Thanks, what torque range would your smaller 1/4 and 3/8 be? I see some online and at the hardware stores here but am not quite sure on torque ranges


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## bank5 (May 7, 2008)

I just got this one on Amazon - TEKTON 24320 1/4-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 20-200-Inch/Pound - - Amazon.com

It has good reviews and I'm not going to use it that much so I wasn't looking to spend a lot. Also, there's a $10 coupon if you spend over $45 on Tekton tools.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

I looked at that one too. Looks good. I'll probably order one next payday.


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## JerB (Jul 10, 2012)

Would this 3/8 also be good one

http://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-24325-8...1402339199&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=3/8+torque


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## FireLikeIYA (Mar 15, 2009)

Hey guys, I saw this and figured some of you might be interested. I own a couple Craftsman torque wrenches and they are real responsive at the end of their range. Mine are the older Made in USA ones and the new ones are made in China so they may not be the same quality BUT Sears has the 3/8" clicker for $28.99 right now. The band is a little high for bikes but usable (10-75 ft-lbs)


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## Inuitbiker (Mar 18, 2011)

kd tools


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## cadoretteboat (Aug 27, 2011)

Infos to make a wise choice:
Torque Wrench Testing - Shop Tools - Car Craft Magazine


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## Jarod Grady (3 mo ago)

Trail_Blazer said:


> Torque Wrench suggestions anyone?
> Specific models please?


Here you can find Torque Wrench according to your need: https://bestofwrenches.com/best-budget-torque-wrench/


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