# How to Dry a Chain



## Lope (Mar 9, 2011)

I plan to get one of these chain cleaners
[Review] The DealExtreme chain cleaner - YouTube
Do you guys use them?

I washed my MTB recently and left it in the sun (indoors by the window) for 2 days to dry.
I noticed afterwards some rust on my chain.
So it seems I shouldn't just let it sit there.

Previously after washing my bike I dropped it on the ground a few times to get most of the water off, and also ran the chain backwards to also flick water off.
This time I didn't do any of that.

What methods do you guys use to dry your chains?


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## sagitt77 (Oct 26, 2010)

You can't clean drive with water. Use something to dissolve grease and dirt, and oil the chain. The rest of drive should be wiped dry.


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

Don't leave the chain wet, always dry it,I wipe my chain down with lint free rags with Isopropyl alcohol or meths after each ride and then relube.
After the wet season when I tend to use a wet lube and its filthy, I dismantle the whole drive train dump in a bucket of deisel over night. then clean it up in water with washing detergent. The chain I then rinse in water and boil it dry over my camping stove. Gets the chain damn clean and ready to accept a dry lube.
If you get ten responses to this you'll have 10 different methods of cleaning. Personally I am not a big fan of those chain cleaning gizmos


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## the.rebot (Jun 8, 2010)

I use Giant's "Agent Orange" it is like scrubbing bubbles for your drive train. I spray it, and maybe mush it around with a grunge brush, then use a spray bottle of water to rinse it all clean. Immediately get the water off with a rag and lube it all up - looks super clean. I do that every other ride, things have been really dry and dusty so maybe more often than just the usual chain wipe and re lube. about every 2 weeks I run the chain through the chain cleaner with chainbrite or simply green. Measure the chain for wear once a week too.


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## deke505 (Jul 29, 2012)

Put it in the dryer. J/K 

I do wash mine the I spin it by pedaling to get the excess water off then dry with rags. After all that I lube it well.


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## dhelm72 (May 4, 2012)

I use an air compressor with a blow off attachment. That gets the water out of the crevices between links. Wiping with a rag only gets the water off the outside of the links.


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## RTM (Sep 17, 2005)

I have one of those chain cleaners but haven't used it in years. Not since I bought my first SRAM chain w/a powerlink. Now I just pop the chain off every week or two depending on trail conditions and my free time. I would skip the chain cleaning gizmo and buy a powerlink instead. Removing the chain, then cleaning & lubricating while off the bike is always going to give a better result.

Not that you asked directly, but Jon is right, here comes the "how I clean MY chain". Hey, I'm only human.

SO...I use a small tupperware full of dish soap & hot water to remove the heavy gunk, dry the chain with a cloth then (my wife's favorite part) hit it with her hair dryer, set to warm. I'm sure its overkill but it only takes a few minutes. In a separate tupperware I submerse and deep clean the chain using Rock 'n Roll lube. I put the lid on and shake it around pretty good. I've tried many lubes and done this MANY times, and this is just what seems to work well for me.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

you could bake it out in a 200-deg oven. you must lube it quickly afterward or it will rust.

this has been beat to death, but i'll beat it some more. i just cannot imagine ever thinking that it's a good idea to intentionally put water on your chain. but, opinions differ.


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## RTM (Sep 17, 2005)

Bill in Houston said:


> i just cannot imagine ever thinking that it's a good idea to intentionally put water on your chain. but, opinions differ.


that is a good point. I never thought of it that way. I clean mine a lot, and even still expect only a season or MAYBE 1.5 before I change them out. I buy mid-range chains at flea markets & close out sales, so for $20 I get a good, fresh chain and don't worry too much about longevity. maybe I'll look into another liquid to use for my "step 1".


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Bill in Houston said:


> you could bake it out in a 200-deg oven. you must lube it quickly afterward or it will rust.
> 
> this has been beat to death, but i'll beat it some more. i just cannot imagine ever thinking that it's a good idea to intentionally put water on your chain. but, opinions differ.


I bake at 250 because I like my chain well done.


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

I forgot to add my chain has got really wet I will sometimes use the wifes hair dryer on it. I tried the oven bake before and that works too, but my wife was not impressed. Water will not damage the chain as long as you get it off the chain and relubed quickly


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## fontarin (May 11, 2011)

dhelm72 said:


> I use an air compressor with a blow off attachment. That gets the water out of the crevices between links. Wiping with a rag only gets the water off the outside of the links.


Same. I haven't had any problems using this method. No rust, chain lasts a long time.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

Lope said:


> I plan to get one of these chain cleaners
> [Review] The DealExtreme chain cleaner - YouTube
> Do you guys use them?
> 
> ...


Geez warm soap and water, then a water rinse....the dry off and inspect with a dry rag.

Goes for the whole bike and the chain.

Off course you lube up after washing.....


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## NoviceMTB (Sep 29, 2010)

Air compressor, or dip it in something that displaces water (i.e. lube.)


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## Dirtydogg (Aug 11, 2012)

I use White Lightning Clean ride. It's a waxy type of lubricant and my chain stays pretty clean. Even a spray from water keeps it mostly protected.

Never any rust on my old bike chain that went through a ton of use. Talkin about thousands of miles through mudholes and river jumps...yeah, we were just kids then...


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

Nubster said:


> I bake at 250 because I like my chain well done.


as long as it is a good quality chain it won't get too chewy.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Here's a link to a German test of 20+ chains Car Bone posted in Drivetrains--p 44
.www.tour-quarterly.com
They discuss chain maintenance 
The wear area is between the rivet or pin and the inner side plates. Slowly friction leads to wear and material is eaten away-- a groove in the pin and the chain becomes longer.
Chains come prelubed from the manufacturer. This is the best lube, but wipe off the outside plates before you ride.
Never use cleaning agents on your chain. They destroy the lubrication within the chain joint.
At regular intervals wipe off your chain with a cotton cloth.
Always use a tenacious penetrating chain oil. And apply it after you ride so it has time to creep into the joints.
Clean your clogs and chain rings. Cleaning agents are well suited for this.
After you've oiled the chain, wipe it off and seal it with a coat of wax. Less dirt will stick and your chain won't get grungy as quickly.
I like to use Stihl chain saw bar oil as a soak and Squirt as a dry lube. I need a wax.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

eb1888 said:


> Here's a link to a German test of 20+ chains Car Bone posted in Drivetrains--p 44
> .www.tour-quarterly.com
> They discuss chain maintenance
> The wear area is between the rivet or pin and the inner side plates. Slowly friction leads to wear and material is eaten away-- a groove in the pin and the chain becomes longer.
> ...


So you use cleaning agent to clean the chain after it gets dirty then you lube it...


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Never use cleaning agents on your chain. They destroy the lubrication within the chain joint. The Manufacture supplies it prelubed.You can wipe it off the outside plates with a cotton cloth. You don't want to remove it from the joint.
Cause you will most likely be unable to replace it and your chain will start performing poorly within a couple rides.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

eb1888 said:


> Never use cleaning agents on your chain. They destroy the lubrication within the chain joint. The Manufacture supplies it prelubed. You don't want to remove that from the joint. Cause you will most likely be unable to replace that and your chain will start performing poorly within a couple rides.


The older Shimano chains prelube was thick hindered shifting, and was noiticable slow, my last three chains the pre-lube has been lighter and acceptable....

So I have stoppped removing the pre-lube....no change in chain life....

Chain life is mostly controlled by water/mud/salt/dust......when it gets dirty clean it and lube it...

The pre-lube is simply that lube for the first few rides or weeks then you need to clean it and re-lube...

Unless of course the pre-lube is to thick, then clean and lube and use.


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## jetboy23 (Jun 14, 2011)

jeffscott said:


> Geez warm soap and water, then a water rinse....the dry off and inspect with a dry rag.
> 
> Goes for the whole bike and the chain.
> 
> Off course you lube up after washing.....


This. Honestly, i usually wash at night and next day reapply lube. Only once has it had any signs of rust (Sram 951). Lube run through and wiped next day. No more rust. My KMC 8.93 and z610 haven't had this issue and i just lube next day. Honestly, the chain will stretch out before it corrodes. I do live in SoCal where the humidity is usually pretty low though.

I will clean my chain about every 2-3 rides. I like a clean bike. Between cleanings, i will wipe the chain down with a rag and lube the rollers. I do this for both, my SS and geared. Shifts good and quiet on both. You can be lazier if you want. Like i said, it'll probably stretch out before anything else.


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## skidjam (Aug 17, 2012)

jeffscott said:


> Geez warm soap and water, then a water rinse....the dry off and inspect with a dry rag.
> 
> Goes for the whole bike and the chain.
> 
> Off course you lube up after washing.....


This


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Chain manufacturers do not put temporary lubrication in their products but something for the inner surfaces to last as long as possible. Motorcycle chains come lifetime lubed with not O rings but X rings to keep the lube in and dirt out. Maybe we need that for our bikes, the chains we use are too road bike oriented.


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

eb1888 said:


> Chain manufacturers do not put temporary lubrication in their products but something for the inner surfaces to last as long as possible. Motorcycle chains come lifetime lubed with not O rings but X rings to keep the lube in and dirt out. Maybe we need that for our bikes, the chains we use are too road bike oriented.


Those sealed systems increase weight, drag and stiffness; doesn't matter to an internal combustion engine but not a great idea for a bike.
Ze Germans tend to be pretty anal about quantifying durability and performance down to the nearest hundred meters, but it's pretty much irrelevant. Chains are a consumable item and pretty inexpensive, I keep them clean and lubed for shifting performance not to maximise life. I take it off the bike and measure it fairly regular and replace it when its elongated. From a ten speed chain (I usually use Shimano as thats what the LBS sells) I get 4000Km to 5000Km - good enough for me


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## DavyRay (Apr 13, 2012)

Then, there is this page from the (Sheldon Brown) bible.

Chain Maintenance


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