# Advantages of single speed specific 3/32" chain?



## anzi (Aug 23, 2013)

I'm about to buy my first single speed bike, and I'll propably have to get a larger cog for it, which means i'll need a new longer chain as well. Why should I get a single speed chain, or could I just use a standard 8 speed 3/32" chain.


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## razardica (Sep 16, 2010)

A single speed specific chain is 1/8th

They are stronger. I like KMC Z510s.


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## squareback (Sep 19, 2011)

razardica said:


> A single speed specific chain is 1/8th
> 
> They are stronger. I like KMC Z510s.


That is the only chain I have not broken.

Second. You may THINK you need a bigger rear sprocket, but part of the fun of an SS is realizing how big of a gear you can push, but you never knew it.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2


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## anzi (Aug 23, 2013)

razardica said:


> A single speed specific chain is 1/8th
> 
> They are stronger. I like KMC Z510s.


How about these: KMC Chain


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## razardica (Sep 16, 2010)

Those chains you linked are for internally geared hubs, so kinda the same, but also pretty different.

Check out the 1/18th chains. That said, a lotta folks use 8 speed chains, 9 speed chains, 10 speed chains, whatever, with no issue. I like the 1/8th chains because while they are a bit heavier, they are much, much stronger.

They are also really cheap.


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## Thor29 (May 12, 2005)

I remember someone, somewhere, stating that 1/8th chains aren't actually stronger. But whether or not that's true, I have used SRAM 8 speed chains for many years and have never had a single problem. 

And don't listen to squareback - put a bigger cog on it and have fun. Why push a bigger gear than you have to? Some people are just masochists.


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## bike for days (Nov 25, 2011)

I like 1/8 chains on 3/32 cogs. Just seem to sit right to me. 
Note, you certainly can't run it the other way though (3/32 chain on 1/8 cogs)

I guess if you were a weight weenie and wanted to pay out the nose you could get some super light 10sp chain, but KMC pretty much does it every time. And yeah, no shame in being a spinner vs masher. Use whatever cog makes you happy 80% of the time. If it were 100% happy then you aren't challenging yourself.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

Main difference would be lateral flex. So if your chainline is far from ideal - stick with 5-6-7-8-9-etc speed chain. They are designed to flex and it sometimes helps with less then ideal chainline. 1/8 chain is usually very stiff and won't budge much laterally. However if you use 3/32 cog and chainring - it can still move around a bit.
I use both 1/8 and 3/32 and yet to break one. 
Also check if your chainring would work with 9+ speed chain - some older chainrings are too wide for new 9+ speed chains.

And before you do splurge for new larger cog and longer chain - try it out first as is. Just curious - what tire and wheel size and what current ratio on the bike you are about to buy?

If you really settled on lowering the ratio - you can get smaller chainring instead of larger cog. Will work just as well (may be a bit less chain wrap) and you won't have to buy a new chain


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## asphaltdude (Sep 17, 2008)

razardica said:


> A single speed specific chain is 1/8th


Nope, there are SS specific 3/32" chains too. (like KMC Z610HX) Narrow, but designed NOT to shift, unlike chains for geared drivetrains.

If you have 3/32" chainring & sprocket (the vast majority of SS mtb's have 3/32" drivetrains, most track bikes and cheap cruisers etc have 1/8"), better stick with 3/32" chains IMO.


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## drjay9051 (Dec 6, 2006)

RE: chain Although either 3/32 or 1/8 will work I recommend the KMC 610.

As far as cogs: I have been running a 20 with 32 up front. As I have gotten stronger I am going to install the 18 in the rear. Main reason is not a macho thing. It's the simple fact that on the flats I am spinning out and could get so much more speed with the 18. Of course this increase in speed will translate into more energy when I get to a hill. So I uppose the climb could be harder with an 18 but by the same token coming to the hill with greater speed could be a big plus.

If not happy could always go back to 20.

You may want to do the same.


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## anzi (Aug 23, 2013)

"Just curious - what tire and wheel size and what current ratio on the bike you are about to buy?"
I'm getting this bike:Vitus Bikes Dee-29 city bike 2013 Comparing to my current bike, a Kona Dew set as 1x8, with a 32t chainring, The Vitus 39+18 is little harder than 32+15 or 32+17 I'm usually running on my current bike. I live in Finland, and last winter I spent most of the time on the granny gear, so I think the 39+18 might be ok for summer, but in snowy conditions I'll definitely need an easier gear.
I emailed chain reaction cycles asking what kind of drivetrain components the bike has, and they said it has 3/32" chain and a 9-speed freewheel fitted with a single speed-kit, and 130 BCD chainring, so I won't be able to fit smaller than a 38t chainring on it. So I'll have to get a new chain and bigger cogs.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

Hm, I'd honestly give it a good try first as is. Also - in my experience most of the frames would allow ~2-3 tooth range in the back with the same chain. So you might be able to put 19 or even 20 at the back and just move wheel closer (hopefully enough clearance and you can move brake caliper a bit). 
I have two bikes with similar dimensions:
1 build as off-road fixed - 32x17, runs on 29x2.4 knobbies (maxxis ardent)
2 build more like all-rounder - 42x16, runs on 29x2.35 slicks (big apples)

If I had to build it as do it all and all season - I'd personally stick with 39x18. And don't forget - it is usually much easier to use same gear inches on SS and even easier on FG then on geared bike (purely subjective here but I believe most SS/FG riders will agree) . So just because you were comfy with lower gear on your 1x8 does not mean it will be good gear ratio for SS. 

So don't rush, ride it as is first and see how you feel.


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## hiroshima (Apr 17, 2006)

My experience is this:

*Single Speed Specific *
Never broken one
heavy
nosier then 8/9s regardless on if chainline is perfect
Wears out in the same amount of time as 8/9s

*8/9sp Chains*
Never broken one
lighter
*quieter *then SS chain and more forgiving for not so perfect chainlines
Wears out in the same amount of time as SS chain

I am about 160 lbs.... if I were 220 and stronger, perhaps my experience with chains would be different, I can't say.... and would not want to see that kind of weight on my frame anyway.


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## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

hiroshima said:


> My experience is this:
> 
> *Single Speed Specific *
> Never broken one
> ...


Same with above. Although I did snap a SRAM quicklink once, so I now use KMC powerlinks. My favorite chains are SRAM 8-9 speed.


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## Saul Lumikko (Oct 23, 2012)

drjay9051 said:


> So I uppose the climb could be harder with an 18 but by the same token coming to the hill with greater speed could be a big plus.


This is very true. Even on a geared bike you sometimes climb better if you don't shift down, because maintaining speed helps you get over obstacles more efficiently.

As for the original question, there's one benefit to 1/8 SS chains: the ability to use 1/8 cogs. 3/32 SS chains have none.

Current 3/32 9 and 10 speed chains are stronger and last longer. If you want performance and longevity, you'll put a 3/32 derailleur-compatible chain on your bike. The price-to-quality -ratio is far better with them, you get what you pay for. This is the obvious result of production numbers.

Sticking to obsolete 1/8 chainrings or cogs is the only reason to have a 1/8 chain on your bike. I have one bike with a drive train this wide (it's a beater, that's my excuse) but all my proper bikes have 3/32 chains (and one belt). 3/32 SS chains are an unnecessary fad: with SS chainrings and cogs and proper chain tension the chain won't fall off.


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## jmmUT (Sep 15, 2008)

Saul Lumikko said:


> Sticking to obsolete 1/8 chainrings or cogs is the only reason to have a 1/8 chain on your bike.


Well, if someone wanted to run a BMX drivechain they might still need to use a 1/8 chain. Not for race BMX parts, but the rest typically use 1/8 still. Why would they? Style, microdriving, cheap compared to MTB parts. Not terribly good reasons for most.


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## Raybum (Apr 16, 2009)

Just get a kmc 8.93 for between $10 and $11 and be done...been running these exclusively for 3 years and they've been flawless. Data shows the 1/8" chains are not stronger. (which makes sense since the pins are simply longer).


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## BrianU (Feb 4, 2004)

I am not going to comment on the 1/8" vs the 3/32" issue, since I have no experience with 1/8" chains. Although I would be curious to know how many people have broke a KMC Z610HX chain. One beefy chain.

Back to the OP's question....one thing I like about a SS 3/32" chain, a SS masterlink is as easy to disassemble after its seen some hard use and dirty as it is when new. Makes cleaning a chain easier when I can quickly remove it. Other than that, not much of an advantage.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

I use both as I said before. One more thing to consider - if you have sizeable inventory of cogs and c-rings in different sizes I'd go with 1/8. I have lots and nice thing about 1/8 is that it will work with both 3/32 and 1/8 parts.
You never know - I once saw Phil's ISO disk cog and had to have it and it was 1/8.
Velosolo have their clearance section and quite often you can score good deal on nice cog or chainring and your chances are better if you don't care whether it is 3/32 or 1/8.


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## JDYMTB (Aug 20, 2012)

+1 for cheap KMC chains. I run the cheapest 3/32 chains from KMC and they have been flawless.


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## anzi (Aug 23, 2013)

I've actually been using cheap Biltema-packaged KMC chains on my 1x8. I was thinking if I should start to use single speed specific 3/32" chains when I get my 1x1, but it seems most people are using chains designed for derailleur use.


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## DanD (Jan 15, 2004)

I agree with pretty much everything in this Spews | The Information Hole | Surly Bikes 


> 4. 1/2x1/8" chains vs. 1/2x3/32" chains. 1/2x1/8" chains suck. Run whatever you want, but bigger isn't better here. Yeah, they're wider, but according to manufacturer-supplied data, they're not stronger and they are definitely not of better quality. Multi-speed drivetrains is where the bucks are at, and chains that work on such drivetrains are where the manufacturers of chains showcase their innovations and developments in quality. The rollers are better, the plates are better, the pins are stronger, and the construction method (riveting procedure) is better on all multi-speed 3/32" chains. I guess if you grind your chainring and chain down the handrail every night at the local pub, a bigger 1/2x1/8 " chain will last longer, but most of us don't and it won't. If you have an old Singleator: Dammit, don't use a 1/2x1/8" chain!!! Otherwise, you'll tear the Singleator off the bike, among other things, guaranteed. This is no longer the case with our redesigned Singleator. The old version used a loop over the jockey wheel to help keep the chain in place. This loop would catch 1/8" chains, which are fatter than 3/32". The current Singleator uses guide plates on each side of the jockey wheel to achieve the same purpose, but depending on the orientation of the wheels, it can run 3/32" or 1/8" chains. We still prefer narrow chains, but if you absolutely must use an 1/8", the new design will work for you.


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