# Slot dropout Inbred - build in progress



## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Hi!

So UGI got the best of me and today I received my new Slot Dropout Inbred frame... I left work a bit early..and proceeded to remove all the parts from the trusty Zion 853EBB... I also got a new set of hoops from CRC to go with the frame.

I still need to zip tie the brake lines and set the chain length, but it's already 11pm over here and I rather sleep and finish tomorrow .. You can find some pics below (yes I will cut the steerer .. the Inbred's headtube is much shorter than the Zion's)

Here's the build:

Frame: On One Inbred Slot Dropout 18"
Fork: Rock Shox Revelation Dual Air
Headset: Cane Creek S2
Cranks: Shimano Hone (BlackSpire MonoVeloce 34 T chainring)
Cog: 20T Misfit Psycles Cod Cog
Stem: Thomson x4
Seatpost: Thomson Elite
Handlebar: Syncros Bulk
Brakes: Shimano Deore XT hydros (LX levers)
Wheels: Hope Pro 2 (bolt on rear, QR front) / DT Comp spokes / DT 4.2d rims (Hope front skewer.
Tires: Kenda Nevegal 2.35 rear / Kenda Blue Groove 2.35 front
Saddle: Selle Italia x0













slot dropout 2


drive side 2


headtube gussets



about 1cm clearance on each side with 2.35 Nevegal


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## noosa2 (May 20, 2004)

That looks great. What does shipping run from UK to US?


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

noosa2 said:


> That look sgreat. What does shipping run from UK to US?


Thanks, noosa! :thumbsup:

you can find on-one's shipping prices here: http://www.planet-x-bikes.com/road/files/uplink/DeliveryCharges.xls

However, shipping to the US is "frozen" right now, as Brant is talking to Zedsport (their US dealer) to work out if they will sell direct while Zedsport orders... he said he would post a reply to US buyers soon on the On-one forums


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

wooo hooo.... it never ends, uh?!

Nice looking steed!!!

Ran out of budget before getting the drivetrain??


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Warp said:


> wooo hooo.... it never ends, uh?!
> 
> Nice looking steed!!!


Thanks! 


Warp said:


> Ran out of budget before getting the drivetrain??


HAHAHAHA! :lol:

the only thing missing is the chain.. got tired of wrenching.. for now..... I would NOT commit blasphemy and put derailleurs on it :nono:


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

crisillo said:


> Thanks!
> 
> HAHAHAHA! :lol:
> 
> the only thing missing is the chain.. got tired of wrenching.. for now..... I would NOT commit blasphemy and put derailleurs on it :nono:


Cris... what you're running for rear axle?
Is that a Hope hub?

I'd like to convert mine to fun-bolts, but mine is a Bulb... no idea if it's possible.


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Warp said:


> Cris... what you're running for rear axle?
> Is that a Hope hub?
> 
> I'd like to convert mine to fun-bolts, but mine is a Bulb... no idea if it's possible.


Hope Pro 2 10mm bolt-on axle.... the Pro2 are convertible to everything out there :ihih:

According to CRC's hub spares list, the rear Bulb is only convertible to 12mm TA..... depending on how the bolt-ons turn out...I might convert the QR rear Pro 2 on the 575


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## 545cu4ch (Aug 11, 2005)

funky looking brake mounts


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

545cu4ch said:


> funky looking brake mounts


yeah.. it's part of the "slot dropout idea".. Adjustment takes some care from my initial impressions...but seems to work fine... I still need to adjust the brakes..so I'll post back...


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

crisillo said:


> yeah.. it's part of the "slot dropout idea".. Adjustment takes some care from my initial impressions...but seems to work fine... I still need to adjust the brakes..so I'll post back...


What if you make the axle and brake mounts to be on a single plate with an adjuster like on the other dropout?? So you slide the whole thing while adjusting for tension and the brake pads are always in the same position relative to the rotor?

While tension on the chain is paramount, correct positioning of the brake pads over the rotor is too and it would be nice to get rid of the guesswork there.


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Warp said:


> What if you make the axle and brake mounts to be on a single plate with an adjuster like on the other dropout?? So you slide the whole thing while adjusting for tension and the brake pads are always in the same position relative to the rotor?
> 
> While tension on the chain is paramount, correct positioning of the brake pads over the rotor is too and it would be nice to get rid of the guesswork there.


On-One used to do a sliding dropout model.... Brant @ OnOne said they went for this design to be able to offer the frame at an even lower pricepoint than before (less parts) and a little lighter... it doesn't seem hard to setup.. I bolted everything up and the brakes were already bitting as they should... I understand your concern, I have it too, but it seems to be something easy to set up by a decent "wrench"...


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

After seeing this frame I no longer think frames that employ both horizontal dropouts (track ends, whatever) and a rear disc brake are stupid. In fact, I really like the caliper placement! Sweet!

--Sparty


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## Mr Tiles (Jan 22, 2004)

I thought UGI only affected the folks over on the turner board?!? 

very nice lookin' ride. I'm digging the caliper placement.


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Thanks Sparty & Mr. Tiles! I'm digging it too 

UGI affects everybody I think


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

*Initial build done*

I've adjusted the brakes and installed the chain.. now I need to get out and ride it


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## Pudgerboy (Nov 17, 2006)

hi Crissillo,

Thats really nice - i got big frame envy and my finger just hovered over the 'add to cart' button on the site. only shame is the lugs for the gear cables! why would you need em?  was wondering how the 20" frame sizes up - im on a 21" rockhopper at the mo. didnt know if it would come up small. Anyone 6ft 4 riding a 20" inbred?

Pete


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Pudgerboy said:


> hi Crissillo,
> 
> Thats really nice - i got big frame envy and my finger just hovered over the 'add to cart' button on the site. only shame is the lugs for the gear cables! why would you need em?  was wondering how the 20" frame sizes up - im on a 21" rockhopper at the mo. didnt know if it would come up small.
> 
> Pete


Hi Pete!

Thanks for the compliments. well..apparently on-one wants to keep the frame dual purpose.... the gear guides are out of the way and don't bother me at all....

to give you an idea on sizing..I swapped from a 19" Zion 853 EBB and this is an 18 incher..and the TT feels the same.... I guess the 20" Inbred could fit you... another thing is that these bikes have more of a "trail bike" geo than a full XC racer (at least with the 130mm fork)

You could email Brant @ On-one to discuss sizing with him


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## Pudgerboy (Nov 17, 2006)

cheers cris, 

will do that. Is that a spank paddle in the background?  

Pete


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Pudgerboy said:


> cheers cris,
> 
> will do that. Is that a spank paddle in the background?
> 
> Pete


LOL :lol: 
that's just a "fan" we got in korea last year..my GF likes that kind of thing


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## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

Nice build dude!


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

flipnidaho said:


> Nice build dude!


Thanks, Flip!


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## antonio (Jan 18, 2005)

Sweet!

Can I have it?

Ant


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

antonio said:


> Sweet!
> 
> Can I have it?
> 
> Ant


NO! :lol:

that's until I have a proper shakedown ride  I came to work on it today..and it feels real nice


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## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

As they like to say up in Boston - that bike is Wicked Pissah!

Nice job!


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

MMcG said:


> As they like to say up in Boston - that bike is Wicked Pissah!
> 
> Nice job!


Thanks, MMcG!  :thumbsup:


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## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

Crisillo - whatcha gonna do with the old Zion???


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

MMcG said:


> Crisillo - whatcha gonna do with the old Zion???


It has already been claimed 

A local buddy will build it up with ..argh...gears :lol: luckily the 853s could go SS or geared..unlike the current 660s AFAIK...


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

noosa2 said:


> That looks great. What does shipping run from UK to US?


Noosa, 
I talked to Brant @ OnOne and he said that zedsport (On-One's US dealer) should have their frames available any day now... so you will save quite a chuck of change compared to shipping it from the UK


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## serious (Jan 25, 2005)

crisillo,

Congratulations on the nice build. I do like the clean design, but I still believe that sliding dropouts are a great idea.

The only thing that I would prefer on my sliding dropout Inbred is for the brake mounts to be on the sliders, not the frame. I do have to make minor adjustments to the caliper when moving the wheel (i.e. when changing cog size), but it is painless and I rarely change cogs anyway.


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

serious said:


> crisillo,
> 
> Congratulations on the nice build. I do like the clean design, but I still believe that sliding dropouts are a great idea.
> 
> The only thing that I would prefer on my sliding dropout Inbred is for the brake mounts to be on the sliders, not the frame. I do have to make minor adjustments to the caliper when moving the wheel (i.e. when changing cog size), but it is painless and I rarely change cogs anyway.


Thanks serious!

I do see your point.. from the initial setup I can say it does take some care, but it is not hard by any means.... I will wait and pass judgment on this setup after riding it for a while (and maybe change a couple flats or something  )


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

well I went for a short "break in" ride.... and I am quite happy... the Inbred behaves beautifully with the Revelation at full 130mm, even when locked out and mashing.... the frame is very flickable.. I guess the low top tube helps a lot on that... I'm loving it.

Some more pics 

at rest


did I say clearance was good 



Ad shot



Climb, Inbred, climb!



Rider's view



Resting again


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## WTB-rider (Jul 25, 2004)

Very nice, I dig the red :thumbsup:


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Thanx! :thumbsup:


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## 2alexcoo (Jan 3, 2007)

Pudgerboy said:


> hi Crissillo,
> 
> Thats really nice - i got big frame envy and my finger just hovered over the 'add to cart' button on the site. only shame is the lugs for the gear cables! why would you need em?  was wondering how the 20" frame sizes up - im on a 21" rockhopper at the mo. didnt know if it would come up small. Anyone 6ft 4 riding a 20" inbred?
> 
> Pete


I'm 6'4" with a 34" inseam and ride a 20" Inbred. Mine is an 853 :rockon: with gears 

The fit is great, feels like I've been riding it for years. Long and low is the best way to describe it - effective top tube is about 24" so a short stem is a good idea.

Some pics here. Oh, and thanks for the pics, crisillo. You have excellent taste in bikes!

Alex


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

2alexcoo said:


> Oh, and thanks for the pics, crisillo. You have excellent taste in bikes!
> 
> Alex


Thank you Alex! You have great taste in bikes too 

I had actually seen your bike already in flickr before I bought mine... your pics helped convince me on the color:ihih:


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## George2 (Nov 28, 2005)

Very nice (also very red ) How well does it work with one chaintug? I got two on my 'old' slot dropout Inbred and I find that easier to fine tune the wheel in the frame (and it won't move a mm). No sliding wheel when braking?


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

George2 said:


> Very nice (also very red ) How well does it work with one chaintug? I got two on my 'old' slot dropout Inbred and I find that easier to fine tune the wheel in the frame (and it won't move a mm). No sliding wheel when braking?


Thanks George! I got only one chain tug under Brant's recommendation... I had a discussion with him and he insisted that only one is necessary... I had my doubts...but so far so good... it seems the new brake position doesn't push the wheel out, so it doesn't shift (again..so far  )..

As you say, I see how a second one could help when aligning the wheel on the brake side, but I just tighten the bolts a bit and shift it when adjusting the brake side...


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

when in SS configuration how easy is rear wheel removal? I assume you have to slacken and take the chain off the chainring......does the caliper get in the way of this?

Stu


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Stuart B said:


> when in SS configuration how easy is rear wheel removal? I assume you have to slacken and take the chain off the chainring......does the caliper get in the way of this?
> 
> Stu


mine is SS configuration  and you assume correctly 

it is quite easy... if your chain tension is not "binding tight"... when you undo the bolts you can move the chaintug and let the wheel move a bit forward... then you can "drop" the chain at the front chainring... no problem with the caliper at all...


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

crisillo said:


> mine is SS configuration  and you assume correctly
> 
> it is quite easy... if your chain tension is not "binding tight"... when you undo the bolts you can move the chaintug and let the wheel move a bit forward... then you can "drop" the chain at the front chainring... no problem with the caliper at all...


cool..I realised yours was SS 

Stu


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## George2 (Nov 28, 2005)

Straying a little off-topic but to remove my wheel I usually push the chain off the chainring up front. This is possible even though I run my chain pretty tight. When mounting it again I do this in reverse order, 
so the last thing to do is to pull the chain up the ring again by turning the cranks.

Even more off topic, I don't get why there seem to be no frame builders that use a forward fascing dropout. I've got one of these om my vintage SS roadbike and imho it works better than track ends. 
Everything stays put with the small screws in the dropouts and you can run standard OR. Wheel removal is very easy because you're releasing the tension when you push the wheel out.










But anyway, back on topic...I really like the discmount on the On-One (even though I'm prettty much a V-brake last of the mohicans) 
I'd think a standard mount would be a pain when you want to remove the wheel...


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## felixdale (Mar 15, 2006)

How does that screw do anything than act as a backstop for wheel positioning? A chaintug works by stopping the drive side from slipping forward under pressure. That is why you only need one tug - on the driveside.

BTW, you are not the only one who would like to see V mounts as well as a disc mount. Brant is aware there are a few of us who would buy a frame otherwise. Most Brit designers are guilty of this. Blame cost and asthetics...


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

felixdale said:


> Brit designers are guilty of this. Blame cost and asthetics...


as a brit I would say it's as much to do with that disks work better in mud. v brakes are a relativrly unusual sight these days here. same reason some us frame designs lack mud clearance....they don't need mud clearance in the area the frame designer lives. I would say its cheaper to make a bike with both than make 2, one with each type as brant hinted.

fair enough you want both options. not everybody does. if there is demand brant will probably provide a solution. don't blame brit designs catering for brit conditions hehe.

stu


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## felixdale (Mar 15, 2006)

Acording to a discussion on STW last week the V bosses would add approx £20 to the £139 Slotted Inbred. I agree discs are superior (obviously) especially in the muddy old UK and I would run discs every day of the week but sometimes (with a flip/flop rear set up for example) a V mount is essential.


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Stuart B said:


> I would say its cheaper to make a bike with both than make 2, one with each type as brant hinted.


as brant said, the current slot-dropout frames where an afterthought... the plan was just to offer complete bikes (with discs) and they then decided to make them available as frame only.. (I am very happy they did so  ).


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

felixdale said:


> Acording to a discussion on STW last week the V bosses would add approx £20 to the £139 Slotted Inbred. I agree discs are superior (obviously) especially in the muddy old UK and I would run discs every day of the week but sometimes (with a flip/flop rear set up for example) a V mount is essential.


I didn't realise it was 139 quid....bargain.

I wonder if the rohloff speedbone works on the disk mount.

Stu


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Stuart B said:


> I wonder if the rohloff speedbone works on the disk mount.


I don't think they will. However, if you look at how a Rohloff works, all you need to do is to stop the "torque arm" rotating under load. I think if I can get that to rest on the upper surface of the dropout (on the "seatstay" section), and retain that nicely with a little widget bolting into the M5 hole on the back (for mudguards) we might be in business.

All the loads from the drive will go "into " the frame and the little doo-hickey should stop it flopping off.

But I need to try it


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## garner43 (Aug 25, 2005)

*Avid BB7's?*

Brant,

I am looking at building up one of the inbred 29ers. I think i read somewhere that BB7s will work on the rear but only w/ 180 rotors. Is this true? What are the other options for disk Brakes that will fit inside the rear triangle. Also, when will Zedsport be selling these things?

Thanks!


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## George2 (Nov 28, 2005)

felixdale said:


> How does that screw do anything than act as a backstop for wheel positioning? A chaintug works by stopping the drive side from slipping forward under pressure. That is why you only need one tug - on the driveside.


There's a screw on each side so they keep the wheel in position. If the axle can't move backwards on the left side it can't move forward on the right side. Once upon a time all roadbikes where like this. 
It worked for Eddy Merckx...

I know one chaintug is probably enough but like I said before, two makes wheel allignment easier, to get the wheel just right in between those V-brakes 

I must admit I was tempted by the new Inbreds, but I'm stiil to happy with my 'old' Inbred, even in the mud. Man, do they ride well :thumbsup:


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

garner43 said:


> Brant,
> 
> I am looking at building up one of the inbred 29ers. I think i read somewhere that BB7s will work on the rear but only w/ 180 rotors. Is this true? What are the other options for disk Brakes that will fit inside the rear triangle. Also, when will Zedsport be selling these things?
> 
> Thanks!


It's far easier (and very lazy) of me to simply say that "BB7's (and 5's) don't work"...

However.
1) I think 180's might work
2) I think 200+ definitely will work.
3) BB7 road calipers work on 160mm.

And when I say "work" I mean "work across the whole throw of the dropout" - as they do work towards the front half already (with a 160mm rotor).

See customers pics (so please don't link inline images) here:-

http://campr2.demon.nl/gallery2/gallery/v/projects/bike/


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> I don't think they will. However, if you look at how a Rohloff works, all you need to do is to stop the "torque arm" rotating under load. I think if I can get that to rest on the upper surface of the dropout (on the "seatstay" section), and retain that nicely with a little widget bolting into the M5 hole on the back (for mudguards) we might be in business.
> 
> All the loads from the drive will go "into " the frame and the little doo-hickey should stop it flopping off.
> 
> But I need to try it


You might already know this, but its worth mentioning anyway just incase you don't and you start playing with rohloff friendly ideas.

As long the do hicky is designed to take torque either way. the torque is in the opposite direction above 11 to below 11. below 11 the torque is in the opposite direction to wheel motion. the highest torque difference occurs in the lowest gear.

The other solution is to just use a regular old fasioned torque arm....but isn't so pretty and somewhat girder like hehe. it woul be nice to use hte speedbone type end plate though....as If were to get a frame I would want to be able to swap the rear wheel bike ot bike with out having to change hub end plates.

Stu


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Stuart B said:


> As long the do hicky is designed to take torque either way. the torque is in the opposite direction above 11 to below 11. below 11 the torque is in the opposite direction to wheel motion. the highest torque difference occurs in the lowest gear.


ah - didn't know that. :-(


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## campr (May 30, 2007)

On the BB5/7 issue:

I realized that the main problem was the height of the bolt pinching the cable, so I just made a new bolt based on the front-dérailleur nut&bolt arrangement on Shimano.

Took a standard 'wood' bolt with domed head. Made it an M4 so it would fit in the same hole as the old one without need for major re-threading or other things. Drilled a 1.5mm hole just under the domed head, rounded the square bits under the head. Cut the length down just a tad. Result? IT FITS!:

Sorry it's a bit blurry:
https://campr2.demon.nl/gallery2/gallery/d/8316-2/IMG_7232.JPG

And the bolt, next to the original:
https://campr2.demon.nl/gallery2/gallery/d/8328-2/IMG_7241.JPG

The mounting on the caliper:
https://campr2.demon.nl/gallery2/gallery/d/8319-2/IMG_7234.JPG

So you see, it's not an on-one generated problem, but Avid should have made that bolt a lot smaller/thinner ;-)

Rob


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## brant (Jan 6, 2004)

Progress (see bottom of page).

http://campr2.demon.nl/gallery2/gallery/v/projects/bike/?g2_page=3


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

campr said:


> On the BB5/7 issue:
> 
> I realized that the main problem was the height of the bolt pinching the cable, so I just made a new bolt based on the front-dérailleur nut&bolt arrangement on Shimano.
> 
> ...


Nice solution, campr! :thumbsup:


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## campr (May 30, 2007)

Thanks... What else should I have done on my day off while it was raining. And in a country where a 'hill' is a 4m (12ft) high bridge? :madman:


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## LIFECYCLE (Mar 8, 2006)

That is one nice frame.Its a shame it doesnt take rim brakes though,I would buy one otherwise.


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

LIFECYCLE said:


> That is one nice frame.Its a shame it doesnt take rim brakes though,I would buy one otherwise.


Thanks!

Keep your eyes on the on-one site... the v-brake ones will come back


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## OverTheHill (Dec 3, 2004)

campr,

What size is the disc rotor on that BB5/7 modification that you have done?


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## campr (May 30, 2007)

Standard 160mm size is what I used.

Brant mentioned before that 180mm would possibly fit without modification. 200mm should fit without any problems.
Rob


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

Niiiiice ride. And I like the red, too (this comes from a guy w/ boring white & silver bikes  )

Hope she treats you right!

fp


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Finch Platte said:


> Niiiiice ride. And I like the red, too (this comes from a guy w/ boring white & silver bikes  )
> 
> Hope she treats you right!
> 
> fp


Thanks, FP!

It has been a blast so far! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## plitta (Dec 17, 2006)

I know this thread is kinda old, but I was wondering if maybe someone saved the pics from post #53 and 54 and would mind posting them again for me. Thanks in advance.


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## campr (May 30, 2007)

I still have the pictures on my server at home. I am on holidays at the moment and my server has crashed. It will be on-line again within 2 weeks.

Sorry 'bout that!

Rob


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## plitta (Dec 17, 2006)

Thanks campr! :thumbsup:


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