# Looking for info and pics of WTB Cantilever brakes



## Monte (Dec 20, 2003)

I'm looking for information and or pictures of these brakes. I've been told they're WTB Cantilever brakes. Also, is there a "modern" brake that will fit these brake bosses? Thanks.

Monte


----------



## alohachiimoku (Apr 7, 2006)

Here is another pic of WTB speedmaster. You can run V-brakes with that boss.


----------



## fsp (Feb 15, 2006)

Be careful. In addition to braking, they have a habit of breaking.


----------



## Boy named SSue (Jan 7, 2004)

fsp said:


> Be careful. In addition to braking, they have a habit of breaking.


I've personally known them to do both. Pretty but a pain in the ass. Hard to get to stay in adjustment too.

The pictures have both versions. The ones with the straight spring were US made. The ones with the bent spring were made overseas.


----------



## Fatmikeynyc (Jun 20, 2005)

Boy named SSue said:


> I've personally known them to do both. Pretty but a pain in the ass. Hard to get to stay in adjustment too.
> 
> The pictures have both versions. The ones with the straight spring were US made. The ones with the bent spring were made overseas.


I'm currently running a US made pair of these on my Wicked Fat Chance and they seem to be really nicely made and look great but I *CAN'T* dial them in on the rear wheel for the life of me! :madman:

When I originally installed them I tried to set them up myself back in early Summer and I've since had 2 different bike shops attempt to adjust them and the front feels pretty good and works well (I hold up most other brakes to my favorite; the WTB Roller-Cams as far as quality...) but the rear brake for whatever reason just can't seem to stay centered or dialed in properly and whenever I finally get it to where I think that it's all set, one of the arms (the drive side) actually just "sticks" on the rim and stays there-total lock up on one side!

I don't know if it's something to do with the Ringle Peace Sign Mojo cable hanger, the WTB spring sticking, the bushings sticking on the frame's canti boss OR if it's the new WTB super grippy brake pad actually sticking to the annodization on the new black Velocity rim's braking surface???









NOTE: This photo shows the current brake set up but with a different rim)

Does ANYONE have any thoughts or advice on this? I've got an old set of Shimano Canti brakes that are all ready to go onto the Wicked, because I am basically so annoyed with these WTB brakes that I just want to actually ride my Wicked which I have not been able to do yet since I had it repainted! 

Anyone, anyone...Bueller?

Thanks,

Michael-NYC


----------



## GrumpyOne (Jan 7, 2004)

Maybe it's just dumb luck, but I don't have any problems with mine. (???)

Do the arms move freely throughout their arc without the springs?

jw


----------



## ssmike (Jan 21, 2004)

Fatmikeynyc said:


> I don't know if it's something to do with the Ringle Peace Sign Mojo cable hanger, the WTB spring sticking, the bushings sticking on the frame's canti boss OR if it's the new WTB super grippy brake pad actually sticking to the annodization on the new black Velocity rim's braking surface???


Try this. Remove the straddle cable and move the brakes by hand. Do you feel spring tension in both arms? If the springs don't return on of the arms, then the other arm is holding the no-tension arm to the rim. If one arm doesn't have spring tension, you have to figure out why. Does it rotate freely on the canti post or is it sticky? If it rotates freely, you've probably got a problem with the springs staying in tension. If it's sticky, it might be binding on the post becuase of either a mushroomed washer (unlikely due to this brake's style of attachment) of the post isn't long enough to poke through the brake and the bolt washer is tigtening against the brake and not the canti post. If this is the case, you can file the brake's brass bushing down so the brass bushing is just slightely shorter than the canti post.

The other thing that might be happening is those blue bands that hold the pad to the arm were notorious for cracking. If this is the case, it simply won't hold the pad's position when you brake. It might look okay in the stand, but under braking with body weight, the pad will loose adjustment.


----------



## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

ssmike said:


> Try this. Remove the straddle cable and move the brakes by hand. Do you feel spring tension in both arms? If the springs don't return on of the arms, then the other arm is holding the no-tension arm to the rim. If one arm doesn't have spring tension, you have to figure out why. Does it rotate freely on the canti post or is it sticky? If it rotates freely, you've probably got a problem with the springs staying in tension. If it's sticky, it might be binding on the post becuase of either a mushroomed washer (unlikely due to this brake's style of attachment) of the post isn't long enough to poke through the brake and the bolt washer is tigtening against the brake and not the canti post. If this is the case, you can file the brake's brass bushing down so the brass bushing is just slightely shorter than the canti post.
> 
> The other thing that might be happening is those blue bands that hold the pad to the arm were notorious for cracking. If this is the case, it simply won't hold the pad's position when you brake. It might look okay in the stand, but under braking with body weight, the pad will loose adjustment.


Mike said it well. The only thing I would add (if Mike's suggestions dont fix it) is you might want to try some pads that are thinner. The combination of your narrowly placed (and maybe a bit high) brake bosses, and the brand new, thick pad is causing the pad to arc into the rim face. As the pad gets squeezed harder it rubs across (actually downward) the rim's braking surface. If you can arrange it so the pad hits it from a more straight on angle it will have less tendency to stick once applied. It looks like you might have some wide rims on there as well and that would also add to this problem. Narrower rims in this case would be better.


----------



## Fatmikeynyc (Jun 20, 2005)

Thanks for the tips guys-I just tried a few if not most of your ideas and it actually appears now from just holding up the rear wheel and giving it a crank to make the rear wheel spin at a super fast speed and jamming on the brake that the WTB brake pads are simply seizing up on the thick black annodized rim surface on BOTH sides. The spring tension and alignment is fine and the bushings seem to be sitting nicely on the canti posts on the frame. What I'm using is 2 slightly different rims that I thought would match in looks as well as in performance; the front is a Velocity "Deep V" rim in black but with a silver machined braking surface and the rear rim is a Velocity "Cliff Hanger" rim in black with a black totally annodized braking surface, so perhaps this rear rim was made for use with either disc or rim brake potential but should ideally be used with a disc hub? I tried to use a totally retro wheelset at first (pictured above) but the Bullseye hub had a 126mm axle not 135mm, so I had to have some "new" wheels made with classic Phil Wood Hubs and these non-retro Velocity rims ;( and I couldn't find 2 rims that perfectly matched...Perhaps I just need to ride the darn thing in a safe area and drag on the rear brake to wear down the annodization on the rim until it no longer sticks? I've been waiting for over a month for a 135mm axle from Roger at Bullseye to go back to Retro wheels that do have a wide rim but most of the annodization is worn on the braking surface, but Roger's sort of slowing down and is quite forgetful so after 3-4 phone calls I don't have my new 135mm axle and I can't go back to using those wheels until I get the proper axle...Jeepers if this is my only problem in life I guess I'm pretty lucky! 

Thanks to all for the suggestions! I'll trouble shoot it some more over the weekend and let everyone know how this silly saga works out!

gotta get back to work :/-

Michael-NYC


----------



## ssmike (Jan 21, 2004)

Fatmikeynyc said:


> ... the thick black annodized rim surface on BOTH sides. ...


Are you sure it's anodization? Anodizition isn't really "thick." Velocity powder coats some rims for disc or fixed gear use. Maybe your rim is powder coated black. I've experimented with powder coated rims and rim brakes in the past and powder coated rims actually grab the pad and almost melt it when braking.


----------



## Fatmikeynyc (Jun 20, 2005)

ssmike said:


> Are you sure it's anodization? Anodizition isn't really "thick." Velocity powder coats some rims for disc or fixed gear use. Maybe your rim is powder coated black. I've experimented with powder coated rims and rim brakes in the past and powder coated rims actually grab the pad and almost melt it when braking.


SSMike!

I think that you've nailed it right on the head-The rims do look powdercoated! The front has a silver machined braking surface so the WTB Brake and SUPER stopping WTB pads work swell on that one, BUT the rear has the same flat "rim brake" surface BUT it IS just as powder coated as the rest of the rim, so you have solved the reason why the WTB SpeedMaster Canti Brakes & Pads are NOT working or Sticking to the rim! THANK YOU *SO MUCH*!

Now what the heck do I do? :madman:

Should I go on ebay and try to find a new Velocity rim with a proper braking surface and have my wheel re-laced or should I try to tough it out until the "powdercoat" melts off the braking surface? Is there way to sand off some the powder to speed up the process? I really wanted my rims to match on this bike and I went into the situation knowing that one rim was all black and that one had the silver braking surface figuring that the all black one was eventually going to have the coating wear off-but apparently this isn't such an easy thing to do with a powdercoated rims! DOH! :blush:

If I can get that dang 135mm rear axle from Bullseye and swap it out for the 126mm one that's in there I can just go back to my other wheels but that's been another hassle-This white Wicked Fat Chance restoration has been such a pain in the buttocks! It's a great looking and great riding bike, BUT if I could only get to actually ride it 

Have a good weekend all!

Michael-NYC


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

mike,
my advice: dump that rear wheel in a corner, dump those brakes. get any light pretty wheel (xtr / 517) and a pair of dia compe/ suntour/ ritchey cantis and RIDE THAT BIKE.
i rode my wicked today w/ fat's original fork i finnally found. what a nice bike for slow woods riding. it gives you the feeling you can try anything that the bike will remain calm and safe.


----------



## Fatmikeynyc (Jun 20, 2005)

colker1 said:


> mike,
> my advice: dump that rear wheel in a corner, dump those brakes. get any light pretty wheel (xtr / 517) and a pair of dia compe/ suntour/ ritchey cantis and RIDE THAT BIKE.
> i rode my wicked today w/ fat's original fork i finnally found. what a nice bike for slow woods riding. it gives you the feeling you can try anything that the bike will remain calm and safe.


I really want to keep the WTB Brakes on the bike! At least I've been able to figure out that it is NOT the WTB canti brakes that are the problem! I ride Phil Wood hubs on all of my bikes so I'll probably just re-lace the rear rim so I can finally ride this Wicked... :bluefrown:










colker1-can you please post photos of your Wicked with the proper Fat City fork?

Michael-NYC


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

sure mike,
do it monday. it's already dark now and tomorrow i am out of town. monday i will post. i put a chorus headset and it feels much smoother than the cane creek ahead. the wheelbase grew .25in and the fork is .5in taller than the other. i wonder if there is a slight difference in the riding. i can definitely feel the front slightly slower but the bike feels more under my control.


----------



## rhett101 (Apr 17, 2004)

GrumpyOne. Can you full post pics of that Blizzard? She looks sweet....


----------



## ssmike (Jan 21, 2004)

Fatmikeynyc said:


> Now what the heck do I do? :madman:
> 
> 
> > Glad to help on that point. Now what to do - you really don't have anything to lose on that wheel. What I would do is take a block sander and sand down the sidewall of the rim to bare aluminum. That shouldn't affect the rest of the powder coating.


----------



## Fatmikeynyc (Jun 20, 2005)

ssmike said:


> Fatmikeynyc said:
> 
> 
> > Now what the heck do I do? :madman:
> ...


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

GrumpyOne said:


> Maybe it's just dumb luck, but I don't have any problems with mine. (???)
> 
> Do the arms move freely throughout their arc without the springs?
> 
> jw


I loved mine, too. I did have one pad clamp band crack (quickly replaced and they sent a pair). They were easy to adjust (compared to most others of the day) and stayed in adjustment. I also used them on a RM Blizzard.


----------



## ssmike (Jan 21, 2004)

Fatmikeynyc said:


> ssmike said:
> 
> 
> > Fatmikeynyc said:
> ...


----------



## Fatmikeynyc (Jun 20, 2005)

ssmike said:


> Fatmikeynyc said:
> 
> 
> > ssmike said:
> ...


----------



## Fatmikeynyc (Jun 20, 2005)

ssmike said:


> Glad to help on that point. Now what to do - you really don't have anything to lose on that wheel. What I would do is take a block sander and sand down the sidewall of the rim to bare aluminum. That shouldn't affect the rest of the powder coating.


-----------------

SSMike!

I took your advice and used a small electric sander that I happened to have and I buzzed the annodization/powder coat totally off of the rear Velocity rim's braking surface and I believe that YOUR advice has TOTALLY solved the problem! PLUS it now looks more like the front rim AND the advice SAVED this wheel for me!!! :thumbsup:

I'll be going out to ride the bike later and will finally be able to let people know what I really think about the WTB Cantilever brakes!!

Getting back to the point of this thread, we've already gone through a lot of the "info", so here are some more pics of my WTB Cantilever brakes that seem to work pretty well! 









Note the rim surface is now silver and the rim is powder coated black after home made fix-it via SSMike's sage advice!









Closer view of the Rear WTB Cantilever brake









Front WTB Cantilever brake (Note Velocity rim with proper factory machined braking surface)









Full view of bike with "matching" rims and front and rear WTB Cantilever brakes :cornut:


----------



## bushpig (Nov 26, 2005)

Nice looking frame in the background too


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Fatmikeynyc said:


> colker1-can you please post photos of your Wicked with the proper Fat City fork?
> 
> Michael-NYC


pics are bad but:


----------



## bushpig (Nov 26, 2005)

colker1 said:


> pics are bad but:


Looks way better. That bike is really coming together.


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

bushpig said:


> Looks way better. That bike is really coming together.


this fork is around 400mm height. wheelbase is .25in longer, 41.25, than w/ the direct drive. it rides slightly different.


----------



## Fatmikeynyc (Jun 20, 2005)

bushpig said:


> Nice looking frame in the background too


Thanks!


----------



## Boy named SSue (Jan 7, 2004)

Fatmikeynyc said:


> Thanks!


I'm a sucker for OM Flyers too. Really cool.


----------



## Fatmikeynyc (Jun 20, 2005)

*Looking for info and pics of WTB Cantilever brakes (OFF TOPIC...)*



Boy named SSue said:


> I'm a sucker for OM Flyers too. Really cool.


Thanks! I'll post better photos of the OM FLYER once it's all built up, as that is actually an "ENDURO" model from the 1980's and has a 1 inch threaded "Landing Gear" fork, a rear derailleur hanger AND 135mm rear spacing, so even though it's a 26 inch wheeled BMX Cruiser, it is technically a Vintage/Retro/Classic Mountain Bike too! 

I'll have to start a separate thread for that bike, as it's not WTB Cantilever Brake related, it just happens to be hanging behind the bike that has those brakes... 

Do you have an OM FLYER? Someone on here uses "OM FLYER" as their name, so someone else here must have one!?


----------

