# The single consolidated official drop bar thread



## IF52 (Jan 10, 2004)

*Edited for clarity, I hope*

There are some drop bar bikes that are set up really well and some that aren't. I'm hoping the ones that are set up really well predominate in this thread. I see some bikes posted in other forums that are really bad and it would be nice for folks to be able to find properly set up drop bar bikes in one place as a reference of sorts. VRCers seem to have the hang of setting up dirt drops. I know there are a few styles of offroad drop bars, and people have different preferences, but generally proper dirt drop bar setup fall in a pretty narrow range.

Enough people ask about this topic in this forum, and you see plenty of people using drops these days on new bikes, how about nice repository for properly set up bikes, vintage or otherwise, with drop bars. Let's include links to external resources like Shiggy's and Guitar Ted's, good photos of 'proper' setup, philosophy, anything that will help the newb when they decide to try drop bars offroad.

http://mtbtires.com/site2/features/37-bikes/85-why-i-ride-dropbars

http://g-tedproductions.blogspot.com/2008/10/drop-bar-for-mountain-biking-part-i.html


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## fatchanceti (Jan 12, 2005)

Furst!


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

xxx


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Xxxx


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## bushpig (Nov 26, 2005)




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## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

It's a touring bike, but they are mountain drops and it is a trail pic.


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## IF52 (Jan 10, 2004)

Nice start.

Maybe a little more bike in each picture. Especialliy the ham


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

IF52 said:


> Nice start.
> 
> Maybe a little more bike in each picture. Especialliy the ham


I thought the focus was the Dirt Drop Setup....

Personaly I was admiring how each bike so far has a little different variable to the cable routing......


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## IF52 (Jan 10, 2004)

Aemmer said:


> I thought the focus was the Dirt Drop Setup....
> 
> Personaly I was admiring how each bike so far has a little different variable to the cable routing......


Yeah, pretty much, but it is kind of hard to get a really good idea of setup with just a snap of the bars. That picture of the Ritchey with the saddle visible is nice because it shows the bar to saddle relationship.

It seems like a lot of folks when they first try to set up a drop bar bike wind up with the bars too low and with too long a stem. My first attemptin the early 90s was like that. I could barely reach the hoods and felt like my nose was on the stem bolt because the drops were so low.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Here's a link to a couple of the other pretty stacked drop bar threads:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=85975

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=300480

My pics would be all reposts.


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## IF52 (Jan 10, 2004)

Ah, damn. My search skilz suck. I was looking for those. I forgot I was the one started that one or I would have bumped it back up. Sorry.


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## nightshade_rider (Apr 18, 2007)

Original setup with RM-3s:









Newer setup with RM-2s:


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## IF52 (Jan 10, 2004)

I love that ibis


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

IF52 said:


> I love that ibis


Yep. One of my fave Ibis' too.


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## bushpig (Nov 26, 2005)

Between the RM-2s and RM-3s which do you prefer?


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

IF52 said:


> Ah, damn. My search skilz suck. I was looking for those. I forgot I was the one started that one or I would have bumped it back up. Sorry.


Haha, ya I was gonna call you out on that. 

This one has 'official' in the title....so MCS should put this in the main VRC sticky up top for reference.


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## nightshade_rider (Apr 18, 2007)

bushpig said:


> Between the RM-2s and RM-3s which do you prefer?


The RM-2s felt instantly comfortable and familiar even after riding some 20+ yrs with the RM-3s. At first I was worried about the increased width of the RM-2s on tight trails, but that doesn't seem to be an issue. My RM-2s had been cut down an inch to accommodate barcons which helps a bit.


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

the ibis is so hot. it's my fave bike in this forum.


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## nightshade_rider (Apr 18, 2007)

colker1 said:


> the ibis is so hot. it's my fave bike in this forum.


The guys at Ibis were sure doing some nice work in those days. This bike was from the time when it was still a three man operation - Scot, Wes Williams, and the painter Lawrence. Although Scot painted this one himself.


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

I second the petition for this as a sticky, but IF--why not edit your first post into a compendium of the collective wisdom regarding fit and drop bar mtbs, some links to the previous threads, and other such business?


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## IF52 (Jan 10, 2004)

Comment moved up as suggested.


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Sorry--I can clarify--

I meant all of it 
Sort of like the other stickies, this thread could be a crash course for drop bars. Grab the links to the other threads, maybe write a short primer (or pull one from the other other threads) explaining the reasoning behind offroad drop bar fit. Your second paragraph in the post above sound like a good intro.

Might be worth tossing in some other links from around the web. Then perhaps this thread CAN act as a consolidated drop bar thread and serve as a resource to people who google themselves to the VRC.

Guitar Ted's write-up is probably useful to include a link to:
http://g-tedproductions.blogspot.com/2008/10/drop-bar-for-mountain-biking-part-i.html


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Well...the mod could in theory merge all the threads into one.


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

i got one..


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## ssulljm (Sep 3, 2006)

*Drop Bars, Not Acid....*

Sorry, flashback to a less militant time.
No idea on history of this bike+how it ended up w the current parts buildup. Got it from a friend in a trade.
But, it really rides nice, has an almost plush give to it , especially descending.....I was pleasantly surprised....Comfy climber also, very peppy(even when I'm not)
Timber Comp Model, Ser# 1B480


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

I have photo's of many little dirt drop related jewel's (and a few dirt clods) from the VRC coffers. Admittedly I have stolen a ton of dirt drop related photo's from this site during my personal quest to learn about and then apply the whole theory.......

I really dig researching old VRC threads... 
With a little filtering, there really is a lot to learn here.......
Thanks,
T


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## kb11 (Mar 29, 2004)

Here's a couple


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## Roadsters (Jul 7, 2008)

But if there already some original threads about this, would that make this thread a reproduction?


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## Retro Dude (Jun 7, 2010)

Here's a shot my '92 Litespeed with drops.


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## IF52 (Jan 10, 2004)

Roadsters said:


> But if there already some original threads about this, would that make this thread a reproduction?


Yes, but that's why eric mentioned having MCS merge and sticky them. There are already threads that are just picture threads, and there is the one I started a few years ago asking for advice on setup, but there isn't one good consolidated thread on the generally accepted best practice of drop bar setup. I see a lot of posts where people set there bikes up with drops, but have them set up like a road bike. Then when they finally ride them offroad, they state they hate how the bike rode. Really good pictures, like some in this thread so far, and explanation like G-Teds might induce an 'oh, duh' moment.

I had ridden drop bar bikes like the Rock Combo and liked them, but the first time I tried to set one up myself I really didn't think about bar height and reach and wound up with it set up like a road bike and it sucked, so I gave up on the idea. Then I found this forum and it sparked my interest to try it again, properly, and I really like it. Now that is how my 29er is set up.


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

I was also spurred to try out a drop bar mtb build after reading threads here. I spent a while searching for the right stem, but finally decided to get a custom one made for my Monster Fat at Winter Cycles. I've been really happy with the Salsa Woodchipper bars. For what it's worth, here's the link and a couple pictures!

Entire thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=598337

"Finished product" post: http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7242878&postcount=70


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## nordstadt (Nov 26, 2005)

Old Muddy Fox from '88 - was my first bike, stolen and a friend had the same and gave it to me a few years ago...


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## stan lee (Mar 5, 2006)

I think this has been posted before:

http://socketsetcycles.blogspot.com/2010/03/ibis-custom-219.html


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

I never could get used to the barcons or the massive stack-o-spacers, so I went back to a low-rise bar -


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)




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## jackspade (Jul 23, 2010)

Still dunno what to do, maybe I'll go for 26x1.15 or 700x23. Also about the brake, I don't know if V-brake would fit with roadbike levers.


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## bushpig (Nov 26, 2005)




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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

bushpig said:


>


nice bike.


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## ong (Jun 26, 2006)

jackspade said:


> Still dunno what to do, maybe I'll go for 26x1.15 or 700x23. Also about the brake, I don't know if V-brake would fit with roadbike levers.


The only real issue is cable pull. With regular road brake levers, you'd need to either use cantis, or you could add "Travel Agents," to work with V-brakes (they have a little "gearing" system that increases the cable pull).
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=6361

Cane Creek also makes a road lever that pulls enough cable to work with V-brakes:
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=21845&category=669.


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## IF52 (Jan 10, 2004)

jackspade said:


> Still dunno what to do...


I'm not sure what you're aiming for, but maybe compare how your bars are set up currently to how all the other bars in this thread so far are set up. Also maybe take a peek at some of the other links in this thread.


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

IF52 said:


> I'm not sure what you're aiming for, but maybe compare how your bars are set up currently to how all the other bars in this thread so far are set up. Also maybe take a peek at some of the other links in this thread.


....except for that Litespeed 

Get yourselves some stems with rise, gentlemen!

And BP---that is super sweet. Still a big fan of the saddle-included fade.


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Factory Dirt Drop circa 1987.

















Thanks Grant.


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)




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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)




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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

If any of those sets are up for grabs let me know!


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

I wish. Those are just pretty photo's I borrowed from the bay that give a pretty good close up for someone who has never used them before.


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Jackie was sponsored by columbus.. wht part of that cunningham was columbus? aluminum tubes?
btw... interesting build w/ RS there.


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## misterdangerpants (Oct 10, 2007)

Aemmer said:


> Factory Dirt Drop circa 1987.


Factory Dirt Drop circa 1989 (courtesy from a posting by *datawhacker*):


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## Retro Dude (Jun 7, 2010)

That Litespeed is my ride, I come from a road background but have been racing off-road since 1987. It gets kinda hairy on drop-offs but it's awesome for downhills. Check out early pics of Tomac on his drop bar Yeti & you can see the road influence.


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## IF52 (Jan 10, 2004)

Wow Aemmer, you weren't kidding! Tons of good stuff piling in.


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## IF52 (Jan 10, 2004)

Retro Dude, 

JT was kind of the exception, I think, to typical bar setup. He wanted his mtn and road bike to have identical setup so he could comfortable switch from one to the other throughout the season. I think for anybody who wants to try drops offroad but hasn't yet, the majority of the examples in the thread so far are a better guide than Tomac's setup. Besides, I think his setup was closer to the bridgestone than to yours.


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

www.retrobike.co.uk/?p=122

There's a nice shot of Tomac's C26 at the link above. More aggressive than the typical set up, but Tomac is Tomac!


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## Allard (Nov 8, 2007)

Gr. Allard


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## Retro Dude (Jun 7, 2010)

IF52,

Agreed, riding drops set up for road for the first time off-road is not for the faint of heart. I get some looks as I pass people in tight twisty single track.


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## ssulljm (Sep 3, 2006)

*Drop Bars+Their History in Mt Bike Lore*

Pretty much all our riding in the heady days before bikes w slashes through them decorated our dirt paths here in the S Bay region were dominated by the "Goat Horn" bars....

http://www.bayareabikehub.com/rides/coast_range_slide.htm



Retro Dude said:


> IF52,
> 
> Agreed, riding drops set up for road for the first time off-road is not for the faint of heart. I get some looks as I pass people in tight twisty single track.


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## jgedwa (Nov 26, 2009)

Nothing fancy, but it does its job very well. Those are studded tires under the coating of snow.

jim


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## uphiller (Jan 13, 2004)

Allard- what frame is that? Love the brakes.
These enormously tall stems always look scary to me. How do they hold up under long-term off-road abuse? Are they flexy?


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## Allard (Nov 8, 2007)

The frame is a Specialized S-Works steel frame from '93/'94. I had it refinished so any rust would be treated the inside is treated with J.P. Weigles frame saver. The brakes are IRD (Interloc Racing Design) Widget's. I bought them back in the day ('94) directly from Rod after extensive emailing (!). They took for ever to come across the pond and came with catalogs, stickers and a Rocketboy inc T-shirt (Which i do not have anymore, wore it to pieces). They work perfectly and are very strong!
The stem is a bit flexy, but that makes for a very comfortable ride. The best i have ever had!

I use the bike around 3 times a week and is fitted now with Tom Slicks 26"x1" for road use. The chainring i use is the 40 teeth one. 

Specs:
Frame: Specialized S-Works
Fork: NOS Tange from the beginning of the '90's
Headset: Specialized steel (!) just beautifull and solid
Stem: Nitto Dirt Drop
Handlebar: On One Midge (it just feels so right!) deannodized
Tape: Cinelli
Levers: Shimano Sora/Tiagra combo
Brakes: IRD Widget
Seatpost: Nitto Specialized S-Works
Seat: SDG Bell Air titanium
Seatbolt: Odyssey Svelte titanium
Cranks: Shimano Deore XT 180mm
Pedals: Crank Bros Candy SL
Bracket: Specialized titanium
Chainring: Surly stainless 34/36/38/40 depending on use
Chain: Shimano HG-70
Cassette: Shimano HG-70 8-speed
Hubset: White Industries Tracker
Skewers: Salsa titanium
Rims: Araya RM-14
Spokes: DT Competition DB
Nipples: DT brass
Tires: Panaracer Smoke and Dart

Gr. Allard


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## den haag (Feb 18, 2009)

*27 years of dirt drops*

#7 cunningham, cinellis with superbe levers and suntour barcons. #C 'ham,same setup. both bars were flaired and spread. willits 29"er, salsa bell lap bars with shimano STI and interupters.


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## stan lee (Mar 5, 2006)

den haag said:


> #7 cunningham, cinellis with superbe levers and suntour barcons. #C 'ham,same setup. both bars were flaired and spread. willits 29"er, salsa bell lap bars with shimano STI and interupters.


Nice Pictures! How many of those bikes are yours?


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## den haag (Feb 18, 2009)

i still have #7, although i'm restoring it to it's original glory, including the clampon bullmoose bars. they have downtube shifters brazed on top. and the willits was made custom for me, so it'll never go away. did you notice the dettos in the top pic?


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

den haag said:


> i still have #7, although i'm restoring it to it's original glory, including the clampon bullmoose bars. they have downtube shifters brazed on top. and the willits was made custom for me, so it'll never go away. did you notice the dettos in the top pic?


Great action photo....
The mud buildup on the cams reminds me of some past wet days from around here......


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## Schmitty (Sep 7, 2008)

*Must read for anyone contemplating dirt drops*

Matt Chester's blog.. a piece on dirt drops: Functionality As Inspiration... akin to Nichols' write up on frame materials. There's 3 parts.

http://5metresofdevelopment.blogspot.com/

-Schmitty-


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## felixdelrio (May 27, 2006)

Here's my '89 Overbury's Pioneer.


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Schmitty said:


> Matt Chester's blog.. a piece on dirt drops: http://5metresofdevelopment.blogspot.com/


Thanks for that!!

And for sure, that Overbury's is a super sweet addition to this thread!


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## tashi (Apr 17, 2005)

It's got drops again! My DeKerf Mountain, as set up for cyclocross:



















Bars have to come up a bit, it's about 3/4" lower than my road position which doesn't allow me to use the drops and is a bit uncomfy for rides longer than a cross race.


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## ssulljm (Sep 3, 2006)

Drop Bar Monsters in 1988, Henrik Djernas, T Frischy, Roger Honegger, Andri Vanderpol Roland Libidon, Albert Zweifel......Pascal Richard...


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## safariofthemind (Oct 27, 2010)

colker1 said:


> i got one..


Hey Colker1, on post number 24, what handlebar and stem are you using? Thanks.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Where do you guys get the 1" threaded stems that large? Best I got was a Nashbar 130mm 70deg rise (I think) and that did not do much.

And is fleabay a good option for barcon and a cheap shimano rear 9 spd?


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

safariofthemind said:


> Hey Colker1, on post number 24, what handlebar and stem are you using? Thanks.


if my merory is still clear it's an SR stem and a midge handlebar. the sr didn't have enough extension so now it has a nitto dirt drop


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Mr Pink57 said:


> Where do you guys get the 1" threaded stems that large? Best I got was a Nashbar 130mm 70deg rise (I think) and that did not do much.


1. There are several lower end bikes from the threaded era that came with stems promoting upright handlebars.

2. Salsa P10, P7.

3. WTB, Cunningham, Potts, Ibis etc. LD Style stem.

4. Nitto Dirt drop

5. Custom stem builders.

To keep the price in check and acquire a vintage style stem, I would suggest checking Rivendell's site for a Nitto Dirt Drop, or Bens on the bay. If perfect fit is more important than price or vintage, go custom. If you want to hang out with the really cool people, plan on spending a year or two searching and dropping close to a half a grand for the whatever size is available when it finally comes up LD. I believe someone here on the forum sold a stylin Salsa P10 for a couple of bennies two weeks ago on the bay.

All the above is just my opinion and fun rambling. In all reality, owning an LD is not an invitation to hang out with the cool people. I am still here with the geeks.

Cheers,
T


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Thanks for the info Aemmer and style is not as important to me as a ok fit. I do have an adapter on their now to use a 1 1/8 stem but even a 130mm seems a bit cramped. The bike might be just too small.

It's a 15.5 I believe and I got it when I was 12 yrs old (NO RUST!)


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## floibex (Feb 7, 2004)




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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

More pics of that Brave please!


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## floibex (Feb 7, 2004)

__
https://flic.kr/p/3291835995










ciao
flo


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Nice splatter paint


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## metrotuned (Dec 29, 2006)

*Drop Bar Monstercross*

Excellent thread. The Phelan shots I haven't seen on the net ever (Rock Shox drop bar competition bike)

Thought I'd add a few modern monstercross, stemming from John Tomac's Yeti drop bar thrasher with the Tioga rear disc to Cunningham's aluminum swan neck drop bar to Singular UK's do-it-all. I remember seeing the Peregrine a few years ago and thought - WOW! - that's how a drop bar monstercross bike is done. It helps that the guy that runs singular knows how to dress up a bike, too!  Almost pulled the trigger but had a jones' for aerospace titanium. Below are some shots from the collection I amassed from MTBR forums over the years, the Amaro ti is an instant classic, and the Japanese-boutique lugged steel fixie with front hub brake on 2.3 Exiwolf's got me good. Enjoi.


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## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

Nice.
I really like the idea of a monstercross bike. With the popularity of rigid 29ers, I'm surprised so many are going for the suspension corrected mtb 29er frames and fugly suspension corrected rigid forks, rather than a much more elegant monstercross setup.


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## veloreality (May 10, 2009)

floibex said:


>


we have a winner!!


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## Joe Steel (Dec 30, 2003)

A couple more...


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## Joe Steel (Dec 30, 2003)

Matt Chester article on set-up: http://www.63xc.com/mattc/midge.htm

Also, I need ONE WTB shifter mount. If anybody has ONE, I will trade a complete set of Kelly Take-Offs :thumbsup:


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## chefmiguel (Dec 22, 2007)

Nice Kleiningham Joe!


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## l-s-d (Dec 11, 2009)

Joe Steel said:


> Matt Chester article on set-up: http://www.63xc.com/mattc/midge.htm


Newer stuff here:
http://5metresofdevelopment.blogspot.com/2010/09/isolation-for-revelation-part-i.html

A modern threadless example:


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## rigidftw (Mar 21, 2010)

*...nothing beats the ride of a bridgestone*

tires, seat and pedals are subject to frequent change.


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## jackspade (Jul 23, 2010)

rigidftw said:


> tires, seat and pedals are subject to frequent change.


Nice.

This is really inspired me to use V-brake and road bike brake lever.


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Also sporting one of my favorite saddles!


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## misterdangerpants (Oct 10, 2007)

l-s-d said:


> A modern threadless example:


Another:










And my modern threaded example:

View attachment 578782


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## rigidftw (Mar 21, 2010)

jackspade said:


> Nice.
> 
> This is really inspired me to use V-brake and road bike brake lever.


thx. but those road bike brake levers are cyclocross v-brake levers. tektro rl520.


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## Singular (Sep 21, 2005)

Not VRC, but another Singular Peregrine.


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## juansevo (Nov 3, 2005)

Beautiful. Such a great selection of vintage dirt drops. Never knew about the Bridgestone!


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Diamondback Overdrive*

Just built this up before Christmas! The bars are Salsa woodchippers, and with barend shifiters, they keep hitting my legs in tight turns. Ghost shifting is not cool!


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## even (Dec 13, 2010)

I've always liked Drops, and the Merlin I've recently purchased lent itself to a drop approach. Being its top tube a tad short for me, I thought it would have been a perfect occasion to mount my Specy drop bar using a longer stem. I tried with a Girvin stem (see in the first pic), but couldn't manage to get a properly comfortable position with my hands on the drops.

The Nitto Moustache bar, similar to the on one Midge, has made a world of difference. The grip on the drops is very comfortable and offers perfect pedaling efficiency, so much that I'm thinking of adopting the bars for my racing 29er too. Magura brakes help a lot, since being able to stop the bike using one finger only is important when you ride on a rigid fork. Just remember that moustache bars require a much shorter stem. To get the best position I had to use a 90 mm stem (I used a 120mm Flexstem with my Specy drops)


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Just came across this stem. Not vintage, but certainly unique.

View attachment 589377


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## even (Dec 13, 2010)

that would be perfect!


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## juansevo (Nov 3, 2005)

even said:


> The Nitto Moustache bar, similar to the on one Midge, has made a world of difference. The grip on the drops is very comfortable and offers perfect pedaling efficiency, so much that I'm thinking of adopting the bars for my racing 29er too. Magura brakes help a lot, since being able to stop the bike using one finger only is important when you ride on a rigid fork. Just remember that moustache bars require a much shorter stem. To get the best position I had to use a 90 mm stem (I used a 120mm Flexstem with my Specy drops)


Did you know the moustache bar was originally developed for use off road? Waaay back when I was a kid I remember Gene Opperpillar (sp?) of Bridgestone (later Bianchi) fame testing the bars at local races. We're talking 1990-1991. He'd eventually win the Chequamegon 40 on a set with a Softride stem for suspension. So yeah...try it. I personally had a set once, didn't work for the riding I did, but could see how they could.

What do you think of the Magura brakes vs V's? I found a set of the drop levers and canti's a year ago. Building a custom monster cross frame and brakes I've been debating on Cane Creek's, Avid Ultimate's, and Paul's Motolite's.


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## rigidftw (Mar 21, 2010)

even said:


> I've always like Drops, and the Merlin I recently purchased lent itself to a drop approach. Being its top tube a tad short for me, I thought it would have been a perfect occasion to mount my Specy drop bar using a longer stem. I tried with a Girvin stem (see in the first pic), but couldn't manage to get a properly comfortable position with my hands on the drops.
> 
> The Nitto Moustache bar, similar to the on one Midge, has made a world of difference. The grip on the drops is very comfortable and offers perfect pedaling efficiency, so much that I'm thinking of adopting the bars for my racing 29er too. Magura brakes help a lot, since being able to stop the bike using one finger only is important when you ride on a rigid fork. Just remember that moustache bars require a much shorter stem. To get the best position I had to use a 90 mm stem (I used a 120mm Flexstem with my Specy drops)


why didn't you try the normal dirt drop bar with the 90mm stem. could have done the trick...


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## even (Dec 13, 2010)

No, the normal drop .. well ... drops too much... this Nitto is just perfect. I've also found thet the control while downhilling is better, but that might be due to the better position.

Maguras, in comparison with vees, are much more comfortable, being the effort at the lever near to zero. One finger braking is possible, and this allows better control. Vbrakes would be lighter, tho, and even nicer if you chose a cool pair. I don't know...

The only thing is that Maguras are so hard to find...


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## scozim (Nov 27, 2008)

Nothing elaborate - in fact down right bottom of the barrel Trek 800 Antelope. Converted to be an on road touring rig and also off road machine to take my son and I camping next summer.


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## Shogun700 (Jun 15, 2009)

Another 'bare-bones' type build, a 1988 Stumpjumper Comp. There is a lot of corrosive salt used here in New England and I didn't want to worry about ruining anything, so I just hung a bunch of old parts on it so I could ride. The stem is deliberately short on reach, I don't like being too far out over the front wheel in the snow. It works great as-is, but I think a setback seatpost would make it 'just right' for my long arms and legs. 2.25's in back are a tight fit....


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## nowhereman (Jul 23, 2004)

I know, it's not VRC.
My attempt, Explosif with Woodchipper


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

Nowhereman, What kind of stem is that? Can't read it.


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## fatchanceti (Jan 12, 2005)

It looks a little like the "Dimensions" riser stem I got for cheap from my LBS. It's not a bad stem either. Mine was in the 160g range IIRC.

FCTi


----------



## nowhereman (Jul 23, 2004)

Yes, it's a Dimension stem. Though it's cheap but it's surprisingly well built and finished.
I dont know about the longevity, time will tell.


----------



## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

Hi, This is my first or second post on this forum, but I have been reading it for years and it has been great inspiration. thank you all. Here is my MB-1 1989.


----------



## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Nice MB-1! .....might be the angle but your front fork looks kind of bent?


----------



## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

Thanks! I did not notice but it does look weird in the photo. I just check and the fork seems straight. Will do more investigation.


----------



## YETIFIED (May 4, 2005)

Machianera said:


> Hi, This is my first or second post on this forum, but I have been reading it for years and it has been great inspiration. thank you all. Here is my MB-1 1989 last week at Cunningham Park in nyc.
> 
> That looks great. Did you get an answer to your drop bar swap?


----------



## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

It's a Koski fork and it sure looks to be bent to me.


----------



## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

Yes the fork is bent. Not as much as the photo may suggest, but it is. Never occurred to me since the bike handles fine no hands. EDIT I just scored the same fork on CL and about to mount it!

YETIFIED: no answer on drop bar trade.


----------



## rigidftw (Mar 21, 2010)

is there a bridgestone gallery on here yet?


----------



## -Anomie- (Jan 16, 2005)

Might as well add my Bontrager with RM-3 Ibis bend bars to the thread, although it no longer has drop bars on it. I couldn't get them high enough and never liked the way it looked or rode, so I switched back to flat bars. Personally, I think drop bars only look good on sloping tube frames, probably because the first MTB's I remember with drops were Cunninghams, JP's mainly. In any case:


----------



## rockychrysler (Aug 9, 2003)

*Rm-2*

the bars on the rock lobster are the wtb-logo only variety 25.4 clamp.

the surly has the specialized rm-2 / wtb logo variety 26.0 clamp. the surly is also equipped with a set of old wtb thumbshifter mounts.

both feature velox plugs. natch.


----------



## rasumichin (Oct 21, 2008)

CX is kind of offroad too, I guess:


----------



## modifier (May 11, 2007)

nowhereman said:


> Yes, it's a Dimension stem. Though it's cheap but it's surprisingly well built and finished.
> I dont know about the longevity, time will tell.


Surprisingly....cheap lol 

Just went to their web site. 

http://www.dimensionbikeproducts.com/cpsc.html


----------



## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

modifier said:


> Just went to their web site.
> 
> http://www.dimensionbikeproducts.com/cpsc.html


"There has been one report of a handlebar stem breaking that resulted in minor abrasions and bruises to the rider"

That's it? I think you frighten too easy.


----------



## laffeaux (Jan 4, 2004)

trailville said:


> "There has been one report of a handlebar stem breaking that resulted in minor abrasions and bruises to the rider"
> 
> That's it? I think you frighten too easy.


LOL I think that I've had similar injuries on nearly every bike that I've ever owned.


----------



## modifier (May 11, 2007)

trailville said:


> "There has been one report of a handlebar stem breaking that resulted in minor abrasions and bruises to the rider"
> 
> That's it? I think you frighten too easy.


Oh I guess I read it wrong. I thought they were recalling 18,000 stems.


----------



## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

add one.


----------



## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

girlonbike said:


> add one.


Stubby LD there G. You have some nice Dirt drop setups. I think it was a picture of your Salsa and ER's Otis together that first got me motivated to try putting together my own Dirt Drop ride. Made it all that much better when I recently got to see your Salsa at Keyesville.


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

girlonbike said:


> add one.


classy. i just love those old ibis.


----------



## Shogun700 (Jun 15, 2009)

Wow, four great looking bikes. Lots of rollercams there Aemmer, I love it!

Looking through the pages, the LD stems make DD builds look 'right' every time. Other stems certainly get the job done, but to my noobish eye, none quite pull it off with the same grace.


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

girlonbike said:


> add one.


Show off.


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Shogun700 said:


> Wow, four great looking bikes. Lots of rollercams there Aemmer, I love it!
> 
> Looking through the pages, the LD stems make DD builds look 'right' every time. Other stems certainly get the job done, but to my noobish eye, none quite pull it off with the same grace.


You've got a great noobish eye then. :thumbsup:


----------



## Shogun700 (Jun 15, 2009)

Rumpfy said:


> You've got a great noobish eye then. :thumbsup:


Thanks. It creates a problem when what looks right is pretty much unavailable. Every time I look a these stems I start to wonder what it would take to build one-I assume it's not as straightforward as it looks. I work in a shop that makes all kinds of things-engines, carburetors, 2-stroke exhaust systems...and tube chassis made with small diameter chromoly. We can bend, cut and weld pretty much anything, but unfortunately (for this anyway) my job is in the horsepower department, and I don't weld. It's one thing to get one of my coworkers to weld something for me, but another thing entirely to ask them to help me create something essentially from scratch. Plus, copying someone else's idea sucks.


----------



## hydepark (Jul 23, 2007)

Aemmer said:


> Factory Dirt Drop circa 1987.
> 
> View attachment 574742
> 
> ...


Bike Touring News has these bars


----------



## Jak0zilla (May 16, 2010)

Does anyone ave any tips to share about where to order good drop bar stems these days? 

I know there are lots of places to get Nitto DirtDrop & Periscopa quill models. Ebay is a pain in the pants for good vintage ones. And most of the builders who've made the nicer work in this thread that are built in this decade are now too busy for stems without an accompanying frame order.

The "modern" stem offerings are upsetting. Time was when you could get a huge variety of reach and rise options at most bike shops. These days everything is 0deg or 5deg, and you're expected to run the thing up a flagpole made of spacers if you want your bars higher. (Or put one of those adjustable monstrosities on.) There are more off-roadable bars available than ever before, but without a fork with a 3 foot A-to-C pushing your front end up in the air there are no stems to run them. 

So ... who's the "new old-Salsa" of stem building?


----------



## ong (Jun 26, 2006)

These look worthwhile, if you can find one:

http://www.bti-usa.com/voodoo/bicycles/nakisistem

I've been using the Profile "Boa" stems on several of my bikes where I need to get the bars way up there. They're ugly, fairly heavy, and really inexpensive. Oh, well! Better than adjustables, anyway.


----------



## Jak0zilla (May 16, 2010)

That's got the reach/rise, but the dumb handlebar size. (At least it's bigger so it could be shimmed.)

Can it be run on a 1" steerer with a shim, or is the clamp too funky? I regularly run 1-1/8" stems on 1" steers with shims to adapt, but I'll only do so if the binder arrangement is a "normal" pinch that generates enough clamping force. There's a lot going on there with that Voodoo ... anyone run one on a 1" steerer?


----------



## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

Jak0zilla said:


> Does anyone ave any tips to share about where to order good drop bar stems these days?
> 
> I know there are lots of places to get Nitto DirtDrop & Periscopa quill models. Ebay is a pain in the pants for good vintage ones. And most of the builders who've made the nicer work in this thread that are built in this decade are now too busy for stems without an accompanying frame order.
> 
> ...


The only production stem <45deg is the Nakisi. opps... too late.


----------



## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

Jak0zilla said:


> Does anyone ave any tips to share about where to order good drop bar stems these days?
> 
> I know there are lots of places to get Nitto DirtDrop & Periscopa quill models. Ebay is a pain in the pants for good vintage ones. And most of the builders who've made the nicer work in this thread that are built in this decade are now too busy for stems without an accompanying frame order.
> 
> ...


The only production stem <45deg is the Nakisi...


----------



## modifier (May 11, 2007)

ong said:


> These look worthwhile, if you can find one:
> 
> http://www.bti-usa.com/voodoo/bicycles/nakisistem
> 
> I've been using the Profile "Boa" stems on several of my bikes where I need to get the bars way up there. They're ugly, fairly heavy, and really inexpensive. Oh, well! Better than adjustables, anyway.


I just got one of the VooDoo stems recently from Bikeman. As the photo indicates it comes without the stem bolt or the pinch bolt. Kind of strange. It also took about a month to get to me. Fortunately I wasn't in a hurry.

Also Profile Design makes a quill style to clamp style stem adapter in both 1" to 1 1/8" and 1 1/8" straight. If you take the top cap and machine it down to 1 1/8th it works as a stub for the above stem. Or leave the cap on and use it to mount modern stems to 1" threaded steertubes.


----------



## muddybuddy (Jan 31, 2007)

*suntour shifter options for drop bars*

I have a bike that I have been slowly converting to drop bars. I have the stem/bar/brake lever position pretty much dialed, but I was hoping for input from anyone with experience pros or cons. The drivetrain is full 7sp XC Pro. Options:

1. Barons. Probably the cheapest and easiest to find, but I'd rather have the shifters closer to the brake levers.

2. Kelly Takeoff with road shifters. Not too expensive and fairly easy to source, but I've heard mixed reviews relating to positioning and I couldn't find anyone that had used them on dirt drop bars.

3. Suntour command shifters. Harder to find and a little more spendy. How well do they work with dirt drops?

4. Is there any way to mount Suntour thumbs to a WTB mount, or are they Shimano specific?


----------



## bushpig (Nov 26, 2005)

I'd go barcon.


----------



## singletracktourist (Jul 27, 2005)

muddybuddy said:


> I have a bike that I have been slowly converting to drop bars. I have the stem/bar/brake lever position pretty much dialed, but I was hoping for input from anyone with experience pros or cons. The drivetrain is full 7sp XC Pro. Options:
> 
> 1. Barons. Probably the cheapest and easiest to find, but I'd rather have the shifters closer to the brake levers.
> 
> ...


they're Shimano specific. Suntour's indexed barcons would be cool.


----------



## bushpig (Nov 26, 2005)

singletracktourist said:


> they're Shimano specific. Suntour's indexed barcons would be cool.


I have a Suntour set.


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Maybe the Velo Orange/ Rivendell friction barcon set up.


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Seeing that the WTB's and DKG's are darn near impossible to find unless you're "in the loop", the Kelly's are questionable, DC is not mass producing his, the Suntour Commands are just plain weird and bar ends are, well, barends. What are the options? It would seem like such a simple item to produce. Shimano and Suntour compatible please.


----------



## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

Barcons aren't that bad. The Suntour ones are really rugged...unless you round the bolts cuz you forget to go lefty tighty and righty loosey. :madman:

As for the WTB/DKG mounts, I don't think you exactly have to be in the loop. You either have to shell out some real dough like the ones that sold on ebay tonight or you have to luck into them.


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

girlonbike said:


> Barcons aren't that bad. The Suntour ones are really rugged...unless you round the bolts cuz you forget to go lefty tighty and righty loosey on one side. :madman:


Don't get me wrong G. I love Barcons and own many sets but I want to be one of the cool kids like you.

BTW. I have one stripped bolt also.


----------



## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

:blush: I'm not one of the cool kids! I lucked out location wise. Come out for a visit Jeff, I'll buy you a beer!


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Holding your own in this testosterone laden soup called the VRC forum gives you double cool points. I'll be out visiting family in August and take you up on that beer. Beer and bikes.:thumbsup:


----------



## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

There was a set of WTB's on the bay a couple of weeks ago with a $275 BIN. They did not sell.


----------



## halaburt (Jan 13, 2004)

muddybuddy said:


> 2. Kelly Takeoff with road shifters. Not too expensive and fairly easy to source, but I've heard mixed reviews relating to positioning and I couldn't find anyone that had used them on dirt drop bars.


I've run the Kelly's on my Phoenix since new in '98 and I'd say I'm generally happy. My setup is with 8sp Shimano downtube shifters.

Positives:
- Works with any recent generation of Shimano downtube OR BARCON shifters -- 8, 9 or 10sp. If I was to re-do this, I'd probalby try try the Barcons as their larger size and rubber hoods might be more finger-friendly.
- MUCH more inexpensive/available than the various WTB and DKG variants.

Negatives:
- Mounting position of the shifter onto the mount doesn't have the adjustability of the WTB/DKG options.
- Shifter is a little further from the bar than WTB/DKG and probably lends itself more to someone with large hands and/or long fingers.
- Not really "vintage correct" on anything older than '97 or so.


----------



## singletracktourist (Jul 27, 2005)

bushpig said:


> I have a Suntour set.


pics please.


----------



## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

I like barcons best but depends on the bars you use. 
If they are very flared like the old wtb, the wtb mounts or kelly may be better. 
If the bars have less flare and shorter ends then I would use barcons. 

I like the old metal suntour w ratcheting, they work very well. Dont like shimano, silver etc.. bc theway they look 
The old campagnolo bar ends shift the best and are more precise.

But none of the above are index!


----------



## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Suntour are indexing.


----------



## muddybuddy (Jan 31, 2007)

The bars I'm using are the WTB/Specialized RM2. I don't have a lot of experience for comparison, but they seem to have quite a bit of flair.

Shifters will be indexed, regardless of location.


----------



## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

should have sold a child and bought those shifter mounts 2 nights ago!  Barcons do great until you luck into a dkg/wtb set. truusttt meeeee


----------



## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Muddy,
What are you putting together?


----------



## muddybuddy (Jan 31, 2007)

girlonbike said:


> should have sold a child and bought those shifter mounts 2 nights ago!  Barcons do great until you luck into a dkg/wtb set. truusttt meeeee


Was watching those. Like everyone else here was I'm sure. But the cheap bastard in me wouldn't let me pay for them.  Plus there's the Suntour aspect complicating things.


----------



## muddybuddy (Jan 31, 2007)

Aemmer said:


> Muddy,
> What are you putting together?


Converting the Gecko. Had been thinking about it for a while, just finally got around to getting the parts together.


----------



## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

*Command Shifters*



muddybuddy said:


> .
> 
> 3. Suntour command shifters. Harder to find and a little more spendy. How well do they work with dirt drops?


My local shop has probably 5 sets of these if you want to go that route.
They're interesting. I never really liked them on drops but they're fun on the end of bullhorn bars or TT aero bars.


----------



## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

Came across this yesterday. Clockwork Bikes is making "LD" style stems. I guess they are going for about $250.00 each, and there are options for face plate or not. See a Flickr pic of one here:

__
https://flic.kr/p/5769934556

Looks perfect for a retro-fit.


----------



## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

Hey GT,

we've talked about it a couple times in here. Tried to get him to do a 1" headtube one but no luck, I believe. The thread was locked.


----------



## muddybuddy (Jan 31, 2007)

I also inquired about him doing a 1" girth LD and he suggested using a shim.


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

He's listening though. I'm sure if he received enough commitments he would make a run.


----------



## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

girlonbike said:


> Hey GT,
> 
> we've talked about it a couple times in here. Tried to get him to do a 1" headtube one but no luck, I believe. The thread was locked.


Sorry. Didn't realize that.

I don't see a problem using a shim, but I understand not everyone will see that as being "proper". That's cool.


----------



## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

Guitar Ted said:


> Sorry. Didn't realize that.
> 
> I don't see a problem using a shim, but I understand not everyone will see that as being "proper". That's cool.


Actually, I don't mind the shim at all. My 1" uses a shim. I don't really like the bolt on top and also the reach is a little long for me.

Thanks for the heads up though. I didn't mean to imply that it wasn't a good lead on an altogether too rare part.

Edit: he said he could make it without the hole in the framebuilding LD stem thread. That's great!


----------



## Stylus (Oct 9, 2008)

while on the subject, does anyone know a quill stem for a 1 1/8 steerer with 26mm bar clamp? Looking at the Nitto dirt drops but not shure if the quill diameter works, any other options?


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Stylus said:


> while on the subject, does anyone know a quill stem for a 1 1/8 steerer with 26mm bar clamp? Looking at the Nitto dirt drops but not shure if the quill diameter works, any other options?


I've never seen Dirt Drop stems in anything but 1"


----------



## Clockwork Bikes (Jun 17, 2006)

Stylus said:


> while on the subject, does anyone know a quill stem for a 1 1/8 steerer with 26mm bar clamp? Looking at the Nitto dirt drops but not shure if the quill diameter works, any other options?


Something like this: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/products/medium/profile-design-stem-convertor-1-inch-quill-to-1-1-8-inch-threadless-img20442.jpg

Plus this:

__
https://flic.kr/p/5807381202

-Joel


----------



## halaburt (Jan 13, 2004)

Clockwork Bikes said:


> Something like this: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/products/medium/profile-design-stem-convertor-1-inch-quill-to-1-1-8-inch-threadless-img20442.jpg
> 
> Plus this:
> 
> ...


Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like the "cap" on that Profile adapter is just part of the single machined piece?... and wouldn't allow your LD to slide over the top of it. Perhaps you should look at the Kalloy's or, better still, the Nitto's:

https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_263_796&products_id=10278
https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_263_796&products_id=10277
https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_263_796&products_id=7559
https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_263_796&products_id=7454

But, while we've got you here, a few questions on your new stem:
- Custom sizes? If not, what's the stock rise/reach?
- Can a customer specify bar clamp size or would you just tell them to shim down from the presumably 31.8mm?
- Would you leave off the hole/setup for the Aheadset bolt if the customer was going to use it with one of these adapters?
- What's the radius of the bend you're using?


----------



## Clockwork Bikes (Jun 17, 2006)

halaburt said:


> Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like the "cap" on that Profile adapter is just part of the single machined piece?... and wouldn't allow your LD to slide over the top of it. Perhaps you should look at the Kalloy's or, better still, the Nitto's:
> 
> http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_263_796&products_id=10278
> http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_263_796&products_id=10277
> ...


1. All are custom reach and rise. Min. 120 rise for average reaches.
2. Bar clamps can be 25.4, 26.0, or 31.8 and you may choose 1 or 2-bolt clamp.
3. Compression bolt hole may be omitted.
4. It was bent with a 3" c.l.r. tool but it's actually a little more.

Thanks, Joel


----------



## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

Stylus said:


> while on the subject, does anyone know a quill stem for a 1 1/8 steerer with 26mm bar clamp? Looking at the Nitto dirt drops but not shure if the quill diameter works, any other options?


They aren't as tall as a dirt drop, but the nitto mt-11 is the best looking mtb stem ever, in my opinion. And they're only available in 1 1/8" quill. Also available from Ben's, in various extensions:

http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=12318


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Clockwork Bikes said:


> 1. All are custom reach and rise. Min. 120 rise for average reaches.
> 2. Bar clamps can be 25.4, 26.0, or 31.8 and you may choose 1 or 2-bolt clamp.
> 3. Compression bolt hole may be omitted.
> 4. It was bent with a 3" c.l.r. tool but it's actually a little more.
> ...


Thanks Joel. I hope these take off for you.


----------



## hydepark (Jul 23, 2007)

I just finished a review of the RM-013 and the RM-014 at biketouringnews dot com. You might have to search for dirt drop if the post is no longer sticky (can't put a link here)


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Looks like the guys across the pond have a similar thread going.

retrobike :: View topic - the unofficially cool MTB drop bar thread


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

CS2 said:


> Looks like the guys across the pond have a similar thread going.
> 
> retrobike :: View topic - the unofficially cool MTB drop bar thread


some there are against drop bars based on aesthethic issues.. well.


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

colker1 said:


> some there are against drop bars based on aesthethic issues.. well.


Funny, I like drops more for the way they look than perform.


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

I like off road drops for the way they look AND the way they perform!


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Rumpfy said:


> I like off road drops for the way they look AND the way they perform!


OR D bars gives a very diff feeling from the bike. I like them a lot. Handling and comfort are great.


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

colker1 said:


> OR D bars gives a very diff feeling from the bike. I like them a lot. Handling and comfort are great.


Ya. Gets you a bit deeper into the bike. I really feel connected when I'm riding drops, though I find you need to put in a bit more effort to get the front end up if you're spending a lot of time with both wheels off the ground.


----------



## -Anomie- (Jan 16, 2005)

I forgot about this thread. Here's my latest build, seen elsewhere but it belongs here too.

'96ish Phoenix with WTB RM-2 bars (and yeah I know I need to lower the levers)


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Rumpfy said:


> Ya. Gets you a bit deeper into the bike. I really feel connected when I'm riding drops, though I find you need to put in a bit more effort to get the front end up if you're spending a lot of time with both wheels off the ground.


same here: lifting the front wheel requires attention. everything else is easier on drop bars.


----------



## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

-Anomie- said:


> I forgot about this thread. Here's my latest build, seen elsewhere but it belongs here too.
> 
> '96ish Phoenix with WTB RM-2 bars (and yeah I know I need to lower the levers)


Beautiful bike. I need a B52 like yours....


----------



## -Anomie- (Jan 16, 2005)

I got lucky on that, I just happened to walk into Pacific Coast Cycles right after Chuck got that B-52 from another customer. He offered, I bought without even thinking about it, since that's the only one I've ever found for sale. I'll let you know if he gets another one, PCC is kind of a magnet for stuff like that.


----------



## RFC (Apr 22, 2008)

Great thread.

As soon as I post 6 more times I can show you my 88 Fisher Procaliber SS with drops.


----------



## RFC (Apr 22, 2008)

OK, now I can post it. 88 Fisher Procaliber now SS path and trail bomber.


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

RFC said:


> OK, now I can post it. 88 Fisher Procaliber now SS path and trail bomber.


Absolutely beautiful bike. Man, that is a long stem though. How big is it?


----------



## RFC (Apr 22, 2008)

CS2 said:


> Absolutely beautiful bike. Man, that is a long stem though. How big is it?


Yes, it is one damn long stem -- 150mm


----------



## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

*Drop bar MB-1*

After a year and a half of tinkering and trying different configurations, I finally got this build the way I like it. Here are a couple of drop bar-related shots. I'll try to post more photos in the Official Bidgestone Thread - just as soon as I can find it (hint, hint...)























- 1993 Bridgestone MB-1 frame, 52cm.
- Nitto Dirt Drop stem (designed by Grant Peterson, specifically for the '87 MB-1), and...
- NOS 3TTT WB-1 dirt drop bars.
- Suntour Command Shifters, to go with...
- Full XC-pro drivetrain + hubs, bottom bracket and headset.
- Dia Compe 287-Vs were the most comfortable non-plastic levers I could find, so...
- Shimano XT V-brakes (kind of out of place, but worked with the levers).


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

iamkeith said:


> After a year and a half of tinkering and trying different configurations, I finally got this build the way I like it. Here are a couple of drop bar-related shots. I'll try to post more photos in the Official Bidgestone Thread - just as soon as I can find it (hint, hint...)
> 
> View attachment 647120
> 
> ...


it needs canti brakes!!


----------



## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

colker1 said:


> it needs canti brakes!!


I know, I know. I'm sensitive about that fact, too, which is why I tried to rationalize my decision in the description. I was hoping the fact that they're the correct finish would make the V-brakes less obvious - but no such luck, I guess. It's amazing how hard it is to find comfortable non-V brake levers that aren't plastic ("resin"). I'd be grateful for any suggestions.

I'm hoarding a set of the factory correct Dia Compe 987 brakes for when I figure it out. The suntour headset has a taller stack-height than the original, so I'm going to need to figure out something for a hanger, too...

In the meantime, I plan to ride the bike hard, so brakes is brakes in some ways...


----------



## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

iamkeith said:


> It's amazing how hard it is to find comfortable non-V brake levers that aren't plastic ("resin"). I'd be grateful for any suggestions.




Almost all road levers are non-V. There's dozens of choices.


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

I really like the 987s i have been using for like 17yrs.. Grab a pair of cane creek drop bar levers (non V). If you can't find vintage stuff, shimano, campy, mavic, modolo, go to rivbike.com and chose from whatever they have there. Or velo orange.
You've got a very nice bike. Those V brakes there are just wrong.


----------



## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

Shayne said:


> Almost all road levers are non-V. There's dozens of choices.


I guess I should clarify:

Levers that :

1. Look appropriate for a vintage build - ie: silver levers and, did I mention, _non-plastic_ bodies? (pretty much rules out anything current from Tektro/Cane Creek, Shimano, or Sram.) But maybe what I'm hearing is that v-brakes stick out worse than modern-shaped, plastic levers...

2. Have big enough hoods to comfortably hold and use as an alternate hand position, for someone with man-hands. (pretty much rules out anything more than 15 years old and, therefore, most non-aero levers.) I know this isn't the way dirt-drop setups were historically used, but it's hard to give this option up once you get used to it. Just reduces fatigue, and is nice for climbing...

3. Have a smooth, quality feel to the action, and a graceful, ergonomic shape to the levers. (pretty much rules out things like the other still-available lower-end dia compes - at least I can find) I know this is subjective though...

You may be right, but I honestly can't find something I like. Any specific suggestions? I'd love a set of vintage Aero Gran Compes, but they're hard to come by. This is the kind of nit-picky, self-imposed challenge that's caused me to take a year and a half to put this thing together in the first place.


----------



## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

colker1 said:


> I really like the 987s i have been using for like 17yrs.. Grab a pair of cane creek drop bar levers (non V). If you can't find vintage stuff, shimano, campy, mavic, modolo, go to rivbike.com and chose from whatever they have there. Or velo orange.
> You've got a very nice bike. Those V brakes there are just wrong.


Actually, check this out: I just posted pictures of another build (I've been busy this Fall) on another thread in another forum, where I _did_ use some of the new Tektro (TRP) levers that I got from Riv., of all places. It's _sort_ of VRC and drop-bar related, but I didn't try as hard to stay aestheticallly/period-correct I just built it with parts I that wanted and/or that I had on hand. Old Ibis. But DAMN, those TRP levers are comfortable - funny looking or not!!!!

link to post

This is what I like about this VRC forum: No shortage of people willing to share first impressions and good opinions! I guess I have my directive for the MB-1....


----------



## rigidftw (Mar 21, 2010)

nice mb-1.
I'm planning a very similar conversion with my '91 mb-1. but I'll be using an on one midge bar, modern road bike brake levers and ultegra 8speed barcons.


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

That MB1 is amazing. It affects me in a way that I'm not even comfortable with. In fact, I have some dirt drops just sitting around and you've just inspired me to put them on something!


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## Howley (Nov 23, 2005)

I may be the only one...but I like the V brakes. I'll try to take a close up of the cable hanger used to solve your problem if you go to canti brakes...It will mount in the front fork crown hole.


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## Howley (Nov 23, 2005)

Hange it like this...[IMGhttps://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Zm1PDeVYvwI/Tig7v_J8VQI/AAAAAAAAJcA/NOrpw1bhK80/s400/HPIM2578.JPG[/IMG]


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## rigidftw (Mar 21, 2010)

those tires are crap and the front brake isn't working as i would like it to, but otherwise it's just magnificent.


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## Allard (Nov 8, 2007)

Sorry for the road tires but it's road season for me now... coming spring it will get it's proper tires again!

The frame and fork are Klein Pinnacle from '88 or '89 It came with a beat-up non Klein paintjob so i was comfortable in having it stripped to raw aluminium. 
The brakes are a combination of IRD Switchback and Rotary and it also has an IRD seatpost. The rest is Deore XT with a Nitto dirtdrop stem. I went with STI's because barcons suck and WTB / DKG brackets are impossible to find. It's a rider so ergonomics are all important!










Gr. Allard


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Nice set up. I know its a winter rider right now...but skin wall knobbies and a Turbo or Ti Flite!

I ran STI's on my first drop bar bike too. Works great.


----------



## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

Nice setup!

Its probably the photo but something about that fork doesn't look right


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## Allard (Nov 8, 2007)

The forks are original Spinners for Klein and yes compared to the large frame and it's fat tubes they look very thin!


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## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

Allard said:


> The frame and fork are Klein Pinnacle from '88 or '89 It came with a beat-up non Klein paintjob so i was comfortable in having it stripped to raw aluminium.


No paint looks nice! A good friend of mine bought a Klein in about '87, couldn't stomach their hideous paint jobs, and talked them into giving it to him un-painted. So it was actually a "factory option" of sorts. Here's a cropped shot of that bike that I found recently, from our first bike trip to Moab circa '88. I seem to recall being able to see grade markings on the tubing - from ALCOA perhaps? Kind of off-topic, but thought you'd be interested...


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Aemmer said:


> View attachment 574736
> 
> 
> View attachment 574739
> ...


Anyone make anything close to these today? The closest I could find was the Kelly Take Off
Kelly Bike Company

There is an interesting lever coming out for the cyclocross gang Retroshift. 
Thread:
https://forums.roadbikereview.com/components-wrenching/retroshift-264420.html

Website:
retroshift | Mud Proof Shifting. Designed by Goats!

Youtube video, watch it. The video explains it well.
Retroshift's Channel - YouTube


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

I decided to throw some dirt drops on my Bontrager and it really sucked! The problem was I had convinced myself I would hate them, so when I ended up loving them I got all mixed up inside. It climbs like a spider monkey, cruises like a crown victoria and descends like a flying squirrel. Now, I'm left to pick up the pieces and decide how to rebuild the bike around them! The only issues I had were the vintage gran-compe levers, which look great but the cables were in the way and I need more meat to grab onto, so I think I'll use some modern Cane Creek's like rigidftw. Also, that heinous rastafied cinelli world champion tape needs to go!


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

If you ran more housing, they don't get in the way. Glad you liked it.


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

girlonbike said:


> If you ran more housing, they don't get in the way. Glad you liked it.


Good point, I really thought I would hate it so I just used the housing from my flat bars rather than cut new ones. It was a real stretch, haha! :lol:


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Sizzler said:


> I decided to throw some dirt drops on my Bontrager and it really sucked! The problem was I had convinced myself I would hate them, so when I ended up loving them I got all mixed up inside. It climbs like a spider monkey, cruises like a crown victoria and descends like a flying squirrel. Now, I'm left to pick up the pieces and decide how to rebuild the bike around them! The only issues I had were the vintage gran-compe levers, which look great but the cables were in the way and I need more meat to grab onto, so I think I'll use some modern Cane Creek's like rigidftw. Also, that heinous rastafied cinelli world champion tape needs to go!


it gets better when you lower those brake levers by an in..


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

Cool, I'll keep that in mind when I re-wrap them! :thumbsup:

Also, how is a drop bar thread missing this picture?


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## proto2000 (Jan 27, 2007)

*New to drops*

I have a question about compatibility of levers and shifters, new to the drops so as you can see I have no idea. I picked up some NOS Dia Comp levers



















and Suntour shifters



















that I think will work for this application but I'm turning to the ones who know for sure....will they? Oh, and for shawnw, I have your brake pads, you are going to like them.


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## halaburt (Jan 13, 2004)

proto2000 said:


> I have a question about compatibility of levers and shifters, new to the drops so as you can see I have no idea. I picked up some NOS Dia Comp levers
> 
> and Suntour shifters
> 
> that I think will work for this application but I'm turning to the ones who know for sure....will they? Oh, and for shawnw, I have your brake pads, you are going to like them.


Those levers are, I think, for V-brakes (hence the "V" in the model number). If that's what you're going to run on your drop bar bike, then great. If you're running canti's or some rollercam variant then nope.

Haven't seen a lot of people run those Suntour Command shifters on a flared drop setup, but there's a whole lot of personal preference that goes into shifter selection and placement on these. I'd suggest some riding, fiddling and experimentation before you do a "final" bar wrap.

I hope shawnw has a lot of thick-walled rims to go with those brake pads. ;p


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

Installed some dirt drops on my old Schwinn tonight using a VooDoo stem. Made it into a gravel bike for winter rides. I'll have to try it out tomorrow.


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

If you decide those shifters aren't for you, just send them my way! 

frog


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Wow!*

That is one eclectic setup! Looks like a bike shiggy would own! Curious about the Voodoo stem, I keep wanting to order one, but they sure ain't cheap! How much exposed steerer do you need for installation?

frog


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

iamkeith said:


> you can tell how the VRC crowd feels about those, based on the discussion of my bike...


you mean the one pro canti comment?


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## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

proto2000 said:


> I have a question about compatibility of levers and shifters, new to the drops so as you can see I have no idea. I picked up some NOS Dia Comp levers and Suntour shifters that I think will work for this application but I'm turning to the ones who know for sure....will they?


Those levers and shifters will work just fine together. That's the _exact_ combination I used on my MB-1, shown just a few posts back in this very thread, and I couldn't be happier with them.

Those shifters have a lot of position adjustment options, so it'll take some time to get them "just right." I've never spent so much time fine tuning mounting positions, cants, and bar angles as I did with this setup, but it works great in the end. You'll swear that the shifter thumb levers are rotated 180 degrees off from where they should be when you're putting them together, but they're very easy to operate when riding, even in the intended position.

BTW: When installing the bar tape, I was able to loop around the shifter pedestal, reverse directions twice, and then then continue back along the original route, which gave me pretty thorough coverage. Hard to explain, but you can kind of see it in my photos.

@halaburt is correct that you'll need V-brakes though. That's a whole other discussion, and you can tell how the VRC crowd feels about those, based on the discussion of my bike...


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## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

girlonbike said:


> you mean the one pro canti comment?


Well... one _respected_ comment, I guess. But a general sense gleened from other threads as well. Didn't I once even see you yourself say that you thought pre-V brakes was sort of a natural cutoff for the identification of vintage versus non-vintage bikes?


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

1 cog frog said:


> That is one eclectic setup! Looks like a bike shiggy would own! Curious about the Voodoo stem, I keep wanting to order one, but they sure ain't cheap! How much exposed steerer do you need for installation?
> 
> frog


It's one of those run what you brung kind of builds and will certainly offend some  It's not going to be a frequent ride and I wanted to use stuff I had on hand for the most part. I bought the stem and bars a while ago just to have another dirt drop set up and this seemed like a good place to hang them. The only thing I had to buy was the Shimano rear derailleur to work with the Suntour barcons since I usually run Sram.

I don't remember the stem being very expensive. Like $75. I don't think that is a lot for a stem anyhow. There is a T slot cut into it and if you want to clear the T you need about 1 5/8" to a max of 1 3/4" steertube sticking out. If you're not concerned with covering the top of the T you could probably get away with less. It's built pretty stout.


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

iamkeith said:


> Well... one _respected_ comment, I guess. But a general sense gleened from other threads as well. Didn't I once even see you yourself say that you thought pre-V brakes was sort of a natural cutoff for the identification of vintage versus non-vintage bikes?


You're absolutely right. That is my own personal cutoff for my own bikes but when people posts bikes, I generally try not to be hypercritical unless it's a veiled for sale outing or something is very very wrong with the bike.  V brakes doesn't fall into the very very wrong category in my opinion.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Good stuff..really enjoying the drop bars on the fixed gear mtb


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## Drummerboy1975 (Nov 24, 2011)

Is it not awkward riding drops on a mountain bike?

Anyone ever put bullhorns on a mountain bike?


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Scott AT-2's
1991 Specialized M2 S Works


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## Shogun700 (Jun 15, 2009)

I'd like a 'cool' stem for my DD build, but these prices are stunning!

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

Nice Salsa stem and all, but I'd be hard pressed to shell out $172 for one-hope it fits the buyer's build perfectly! I guess I should feel fortunate, that stem is wrong for my build anyway.

This is my latest project-can you say wheelbase? I knew you could! Odd geometry, but I love it and am looking forward to seeing how it rides. I didn't notice the sloping top tube until I saw this pic-I had to go measure just to be sure, and it does drop a bit, strange for a bike from this era-as far as I can tell it's an '85. I've never seen another, and would love to know the original spec. All it came with was one trashed Mavic crank arm and a set of first generation Suntour roller cams.

It's my 'winter' build, inspired by a set of tires-I'll explain when it comes together.




























I'm in the early stages, had to mod an old Kalloy stem (wouldn't go past the bends on the bars, and the clamp was too small) to attach the bars and work on the fit, and I'm currently building some adapters so that my shifters will be directly bolted to my brake levers. I think the frameset is from '85 or so, and I'm trying to stay away from Shimano parts if possible, so far, so good, mostly Suntour XC stuff, AT crankset, and a tri-pulley ARX rear derailleur.

I've been telling myself this is my last build.....


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Shogun700 said:


> It's my 'winter' build, inspired by a set of tires-I'll explain when it comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Make sure to post finished pics. I love the paint. Good luck


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Found this for sale on ebay, where else, in India.


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## even (Dec 13, 2010)

How cool!


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## Shogun700 (Jun 15, 2009)

Closer, but not quite there yet....

As I mentioned before, the whole build was inspired by a set of tires-NOS Tioga Farmer Johns that I found all studded up and not exactly practical, but I thought with the Marinoni being Canadian, a winter build might be the way to go with it even though the tires are just for pictures. I'm happy with most of it so far, I suppose I'd prefer black hoods for the levers, gotta put the XC-II's back on, and the rear shifting is pretty stiff-I will need to address that. The shifter setup has taken some time to sort out-I drilled the lever bodies in several spots to test mounting positions and had to find a way to secure them to the levers, but so far so good.

The stem is still an issue, so no tape yet. I need 100-110mm quil extension, but with a 26.0 clamp. Ben's has Nitto DD stems with a long enough quil, but only in 25.4 clamp diameter, and the stems with a 26.0 clamp are only 90mm extension. Is it possible to ream a 25.4 to a 26.0? I'm also pretty much committed to a stem-mounted cable stop as there is not enough length to the head tube for me to fit one at the headset-I was able to solve this with a v-brake noodle (you can see it in the first pic) and it works well without binding.

I'll probably do a build thread when it's finished and show how I mounted the shifters...I want to make sure they work as intended, if they are impractical then it's pointless.


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## LNBright (Jul 12, 2011)

If that doesn't work, you might could try these:
Retroshift.com


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## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

the only place where you can get the nitto 26.0 is rivendell bikes:
Nitto Dirt Drop 26.0


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## Shogun700 (Jun 15, 2009)

Thanks for the info guys, Rivendell does have a stem that might work if I can sort the brake cable routing out.


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## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

Shogun700 said:


> As I mentioned before, the whole build was inspired by a set of tires-NOS Tioga Farmer Johns that I found all studded up and not exactly practical, but I thought with the Marinoni being Canadian, a winter build might be the way to go with it even though the tires are just for pictures. [/QUOTE]
> 
> Maybe this is what you're saying, but the Farmer Johns are backwards, aren't they? God, I used to love those tires, but I always ran them the same way as tractors and back-hoes run their tires - rotating so that the point of the chevron struck the ground first. "Digging in" versus "shoveling." Gonna be a cool bike though. I like your shifter mod, and I'm interested to see how well it works out.


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## Shogun700 (Jun 15, 2009)

iamkeith said:


> Maybe this is what you're saying, but the Farmer Johns are backwards, aren't they? God, I used to love those tires, but I always ran them the same way as tractors and back-hoes run their tires - rotating so that the point of the chevron struck the ground first. "Digging in" versus "shoveling." Gonna be a cool bike though. I like your shifter mod, and I'm interested to see how well it works out.


I could not agree more about the tires....I spent an hour on the web trying to find out the correct way to mount them, found a few threads where the general consensus for tires was the labels should be on the drive side-even found one thread where a guy said something like "we've been arguing about this since the Tioga Farmer Johns came out". I really, really wanted to mount them the other way....glad you brought it up.

Regarding the shifters-I'm sure someone else has tried what I'm doing, it's not rocket science. For most applications, it wouldn't make sense as you cannot ride on the hoods with the shifter in the way, but for DD purposes the potential pitfall is the lever being in the way of the grip area in the drops when you are in the middle gear. We will see.


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## merzperson (Feb 2, 2012)

1990 Trek 950 Singletrack SS


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Someone named "Othervoicez" should be contacting you soon....


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

merzperson said:


> 1990 Trek 950 Singletrack SS
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice bike.


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

I was cracking myself up with my joke this morning and nobody even gave me so much as a sympathy laugh....:ciappa:


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Aemmer said:


> I was cracking myself up with my joke this morning and nobody even gave me so much as a sympathy laugh....:ciappa:


You can do better. 

While we're at it....I find that Trek offensive.


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Rumpfy said:


> You can do better.
> 
> While we're at it....I find that Trek offensive.


Offensive and beautiful at the same time.


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## merzperson (Feb 2, 2012)

Rumpfy said:


> While we're at it....I find that Trek offensive.


I am certainly no expert or "vintage bike purist" (not even close), so might I inquire why you find the bike offensive short of the cheap-o made in China fluorescent green tires?


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

merzperson said:


> I am certainly no expert or "vintage bike purist" (not even close), so might I inquire why you find the bike offensive short of the cheap-o made in China fluorescent green tires?


If you're new you'll find the regulars are giving a baptism by fire. Or as some call it an enema with a garden hose. You need thick skin to hang here.


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Just having fun, don't take it personal.....

Your bike just reminded me of a fun thread here on VRC


I used to try to run any crazy colored tire I could find
I have had so many I cant list them all
the wild gripper by Michelin (green)
and a few specialized tires in various colors

I going to replenish my selection of 
colored tires and brake lever extensions?
- glad to be here.

I know those colored tires are out there
but where?


I just dont give up that easily.
who here can steer me in the right direction?
I bought 2 sets of darwin lever extensions 
but I have still no avenues on the colored tires.

anyone?

???
any help on this much wanted info?

I have ran colored tires since my first tailwhips on my gt performer in 1988
so it is just a matter of my tastes 

so anyone able to help out with some actual info?
Im sure there are actual members here who actually have knowledge
and would enjoy giving this site some credibility as being a place where the members 
actually know there hobby.

any one?

ahh see colored tires are not so silly after all

glad to see someone who has no problem enjoying what they like


thanks 
othervoicez

nothing like a set of skinwall tires in 
various colors to set off a 90's rig.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

merzperson said:


> I am certainly no expert or "vintage bike purist" (not even close), so might I inquire why you find the bike offensive short of the cheap-o made in China fluorescent green tires?


Well...I'm a purist, so its more my problem than yours.  If the bike works, then sweet.
For me personally, Tektro brake levers and cheapo v-brakes don't get me too stoked. Quill stem set all super high (hopefully below limit line). From there non-cloth tape. New newer saddle and newer drop bars look ugly on old bikes. Again, just my opinion.


----------



## Shogun700 (Jun 15, 2009)

merzperson said:


> I am certainly no expert or "vintage bike purist" (not even close), so might I inquire why you find the bike offensive short of the cheap-o made in China fluorescent green tires?


This is the legendary MTBR 'VRC' public forum-it exists to help those who were 'in the know' back in the day learn about pedestrian MTB's from the 'new era' after 1988 or so, when the introduction of fluorescent spandex pants apparently caused semi-permanent blindness. Otherwise, they would have a dedicated, private forum to talk to each other about the bikes deemed worthy, and there is simply no fun or point in that!


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Otherwise, they would have a dedicated, private forum to talk to each other about the bikes deemed worthy, and there is simply no fun or point in that!

VMBEFG....Winter is waning, must get out and ride soon.......


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## merzperson (Feb 2, 2012)

Yeah, I'm definitely not trying to break the bank on period correct parts, but rather putting together something that is fun to ride, inexpensive, and looks good (to me). I suppose this means it doesn't belong in the vintage forum. I do need a new stem though.

By the way, anyone seen any Merz MTB's here on the forum?


----------



## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

merzperson said:


> By the way, anyone seen any Merz MTB's here on the forum?


Yes.


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## hollister (Sep 16, 2005)

the illegitimate love child of othervoices and momosgarage

one helluva what if portal, my head just exploded


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## Shogun700 (Jun 15, 2009)

Aemmer said:


> ....Winter is waning, must get out and ride soon.......


Agreed! No snow here.....but my neck/back are a mess. *sigh*

Merzperson, your bike belongs here, there are plenty of older mtb's floating around the forum with newer parts like yours. Don't hesitate to post, just be ready for blunt opinions-both positive and negative. I own several bikes, both 'worthy ' and not-so-worthy, an post them all up fearlessly.

I like your ride, the 950 frame looks good with the drops and it's really clean, well done. I want to hate the tires, but it's not happening!


----------



## merzperson (Feb 2, 2012)

Well hey - I'm here to learn, so I'll take the negative comments. I'd never claim to know more about vintage bikes than anyone else on here. I found this Trek on CL for $75 and have had a blast riding it and fixing it up (on a poor college student budget). I've always thought classic mountain bikes are some of the most beautiful bicycles that have ever been made and it's been my dream to put one together.

If anyone has any photos of Merz MTB's I'd love to see them.


----------



## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

CS2 said:


> Anyone make anything close to these today? The closest I could find was the Kelly Take Off
> Kelly Bike Company
> 
> There is an interesting lever coming out for the cyclocross gang Retroshift.
> ...


Sent them an email regarding a v-brake set (disc brakes) and they said early spring is the planned time.


----------



## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

I don't get the fuss about whether a certian bike is worthy or not worthy. He's got a mountain bike with drop bars in "The single consolidated official drop bar thread". He's out riding a bike that he built himself and he's having a good time. If he builds a bike to his liking because that is what he wants then that's great. I give him props. I'd run lime green tires in a heartbeat also.

Keeping on topic..Here is an updated picture of my bike. Since last time it was posted it has gotten new tires (I really miss the gum walls...) and tubes, a new saddle and pedals. Now the bike may seem silly to you, but I love this bike. I've got less than $50 bucks in the entire build and so far this year I've ridden it much more than my other bikes that have cost much more. :thumbsup:










I will get some better pictures, a cellphone pic on a sunny day is horrible


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> I don't get the fuss about whether a certian bike is worthy or not worthy. He's got a mountain bike with drop bars in "The single consolidated official drop bar thread". He's out riding a bike that he built himself and he's having a good time. If he builds a bike to his liking because that is what he wants then that's great. I give him props. I'd run lime green tires in a heartbeat also.


Most people are very simple minded. They want to be like everybody else and want everybody else to be like them. When someone steps across the line their mob mentality kicks in and they go into automatic rejection without really analyzing where their ill-founded thoughts come from.


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Darn,
I was just having fun because the green tires reminded me of Othervoicez. Not sure how that was complaining, but lets be honest, those are the brightest tires to appear in VRC for quite some time. 

As far as the build goes on the TREK; The drops to saddle ratio appears to be huge and I don't know if this would be conductive towards a comfortable long ride. I believe there is a lot of confusion about what the vintage drop bar mountain bike was trying to accomplish, and several builds here are put together with the emphasis on riding the hoods not the drops. This is fine if that is what you are trying to accomplish, but it is not in the spirit of the vintage mountainbike drop bar rides which were designed to ride mainly with the hands in the drops. 

Vintage drop bar mountainbikes were designed to ride the drops for several reasons including an ergonomic correct hand position, and using the bend of the bars as a source of suspension.

I am now ready to be blasted for stating my opinion.....flame on..... 

Ride what you brought and ride hard,


----------



## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

Aemmer said:


> Darn,
> I was just having fun because the green tires reminded me of Othervoicez. Not sure how that was complaining, but lets be honest, those are the brightest tires to appear in VRC for quite some time.
> 
> As far as the build goes on the TREK; The drops to saddle ratio appears to be huge and I don't know if this would be conductive towards a comfortable long ride. I believe there is a lot of confusion about what the vintage drop bar mountain bike was trying to accomplish, and several builds here are put together with the emphasis on riding the hoods not the drops. This is fine if that is what you are trying to accomplish, but it is not in the spirit of the vintage mountainbike drop bar rides which were designed to ride mainly with the hands in the drops.
> ...


That's just good, constructive critique. What he's saying, @merzperson, is that you'd probably be more comfortable on a stem that is much shorter taller. (look for a kalloy, if you don't want to spend a bunch of money) Unlike a road bike, you should ride in the hooks 100% of the time, and your grip area wants to be in roughly the same position, relative to the saddle, as it would have been if you were using a typical flat bar and that 140mm or 150mm stem.

I never read the "hello, my name is Othervoicez" thread, or I might have laughed.


----------



## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

The saddle to bar drop doesn't look all that bad for his height, but the reach does look fairly long. Remember taller guys can get away with more of a difference between bar and saddle height because their longer arms make up the difference. In the end, it's about the angle of your back, not a set in stone bar to seat ratio, because everybody's got dif bodily proportions.

Heck, look at the king/originator/founder of off road drop bars (Charlie Cunningham) and his bike has a 2-3" (maybe more as I'm going off memory) difference between bar and saddle height.

And the height of the bars isn't necessarily a comfort thing (people do the RAAM with low bars), it's more to do with weight distribution for riding in the dirt and technical terrain vs the road which doesn't ever need much rearward body English.


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

saddle to bar drop doesn't look all that bad for his height

Ok probably just the angle of the photo and a strong back. FWIW here is a pic of mine 6' 3" , 48 YO and slacking in the yoga classes. I think I squatted down a little more when I took the pic.










the reach does look fairly long

I Agree


----------



## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

Aemmer said:


> saddle to bar drop doesn't look all that bad for his height
> 
> Ok probably just the angle of the photo and a strong back. FWIW here is a pic of mine 6' 3" , 48 YO and slacking in the yoga classes. I think I squatted down a little more when I took the pic.
> 
> I Agree


that's a pretty bike.

I know of some guys that ride in the midwest on dirt drops with a standard mtb stem (you know who you are) and it's fine. I'm guessing the trails are flatter/less technical there, not requiring excessive body weight shifts to the rear.

Whatever works for your body and terrain I guess.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

This setup is good for riding on the hoods on dirt roads, but not good in the drops on technical stuff.









This setup has proven to be good for riding in the drops all day long.









A little more height on the Ham and less reach made all the difference.


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## Fred Smedley (Feb 28, 2006)

Rumpfy said:


> You can do better.
> 
> While we're at it....I find that Trek offensive.


It's a terrible thing , a $50.00 dollar bike that rides better than your $500.00 bike.


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## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

Fred Smedley said:


> It's a terrible thing , a $50.00 dollar bike that rides better than your $500.00 bike.


Yeah, it's just not right that someone with virtually no knowledge of boutique bike brands and vintage components, who doesn't spend endless hours scouring Ebay and Craigslist for the rare finds, can put together a bike that provides pretty much the same ride experience.


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

trailville said:


> who doesn't spend endless hours scouring Ebay and Craigslist for the rare finds


Is this what collecting is now? Ebay and Craigslist?

I spent part of this morning communicating with a friend who I met here on VRC and have shared a few emails and phone conversations with over the years. I appreciate the heck out of his bike passion, opinions and daydream about having a collection that contains a few bikes as nice as his someday.

We have traded parts back and forth before. No ebay, Clist, cloak and daggers involved, just the same passion for nice old bike stuff.

I came back from Vaca. on Monday to another email from a different friend who wanted to touch base and share some pictures of his latest bike find. Again, just a passion for old bikes.....


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## merzperson (Feb 2, 2012)

Re: my bar to saddle ratio. Part of this is that my stem doesn't go any higher (I have it just above the max height line - probably shouldn't ride it like that) and I'm not having much luck finding a suitable high-rise stem with comparable reach. I'm 6'5" and all torso. Mostly importantly, though, my background is in road racing where there's easily a foot of drop from the saddle to the bars. I ride my Trek 950 in the drops 90% of the time on the roads, and 100% on the trails.

Anybody have a recommendation for a 1" stem with decent rise and reach? Preferably of the inexpensive variety?


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Nitto Dirt Drop 26.0


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Aemmer said:


> Otherwise, they would have a dedicated, private forum to talk to each other about the bikes deemed worthy, and there is simply no fun or point in that!


I thought we had that at one time. There was a lot of flak on it if I remember.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Fred Smedley said:


> It's a terrible thing , a $50.00 dollar bike that rides better than your $500.00 bike.


I'm embarrassed to say I don't have a $500 bike.


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## muddybuddy (Jan 31, 2007)

That's nothing to be embarrassed about.


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## Howley (Nov 23, 2005)

*Destined to be a "classic"*

retroshift | Mud Proof Shifting. Designed by Goats!

From the cyclcross forum.


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Pricey!


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Oof---! Yeah, I didn't notice the price the first time I looked. $120 for funky brake levers! (and that's not including the shifters....)


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## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

can't shift from the drops.
need to continuously change hand positioning (loosing the grip on handlebar)
can't brake while shifting
expensive


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

Aemmer said:


> Nitto Dirt Drop 26.0


Nice little vid at the bottom about taping handlebars. I've always been fine with a dab of glue at the very end so the tape doesn't unravel but the twine idea is old school slick. Probably came from the days before there was any adhesive on the cloth.

Speaking of cloth. It's getting pretty hard to find cloth tape any more. Guys at the LBS didn't even know what I was talking about. I went ahead a bought a whole box of blue because I needed some but now all I have is blue. Not that I need it all the time but does anyone have a good source for cloth tape?


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## LNBright (Jul 12, 2011)

modifier said:


> Nice little vid at the bottom about taping handlebars. I've always been fine with a dab of glue at the very end so the tape doesn't unravel but the twine idea is old school slick. Probably came from the days before there was any adhesive on the cloth.
> 
> Speaking of cloth. It's getting pretty hard to find cloth tape any more. Guys at the LBS didn't even know what I was talking about. I went ahead a bought a whole box of blue because I needed some but now all I have is blue. Not that I need it all the time but does anyone have a good source for cloth tape?


Newbaums Bar Tape


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

all I have is blue

My box is white.....


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

LNBright said:


> Newbaums Bar Tape


I just redid the bars on my Salsa with that stuff. I liked it.


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

LNBright said:


> Newbaums Bar Tape


Nice lead. If you need more color choice than that you have a problem 

Thanks


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

Here is another brand. Cloth Bar Tape

And an interesting article. The Velo ORANGE Blog: Shellac and Bar Tape, a Guide


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## LNBright (Jul 12, 2011)

Similarly:
Learn About Bikes with Rivendell Bicycle Works


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## nightshade_rider (Apr 18, 2007)

Newbaums is good quality tape. Plush and feels real nice.

I recently tried another brand of cloth tape (rather not name names) that was thinner and more anemic. It curled up slightly on the edges when wrapped tightly.

Newbaum's is the way to go. The dark eggplant color is awesome where you might otherwise use black.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

I've never cut the tape in half underneath the brake lever as done in that Riv video. Are people here commonly doing that?


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

DoubleCentury said:


> I've never cut the tape in half underneath the brake lever as done in that Riv video. Are people here commonly doing that?


No. I've gone both ways, starting at the stem or the end of the bar but I always do it with one continuous length.

When I stop at the bar end I tuck the tape in and insert the plug or Bar Con and when I stop at the stem I wrap electrical tape around the end or put a dab of glue on a tapered end to hold it in place.

But it did give me the idea of starting both ways, cutting and tucking the ends under the brake hood as an alternate. I think I'll try this next time as it might be the best. No loose ends to deal with.


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## bushpig (Nov 26, 2005)

that is the Alex Singer method. It works very well.


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## surfoverhill (Feb 8, 2008)

I wanted to get some feedback on the bar position before I send the stem design to Joel at Clockwork for my new 1" LD stem. This is my first drop bar bike. Here is what the bike looks like now with a mock up adjustable stem. I am planning on have it built about 3/4"-1" lower than it is shown here. It is as low as it will go but feels pretty good. I'm fat, old and broken so it will not be doing anything very technical. Fire roads and easy single track.

The stem will end up 6.8" tall with a 2.9" reach.


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## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

If this can help.... The top should be 1/2 3/4 inch lower than original


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## surfoverhill (Feb 8, 2008)

Nice work Machianera, I am going to go with 1/2" lower than the current mockup.
Thanks!


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

If that 1/2" gets the tops of the bars about level with the saddle and you feel comfortable on it (especially in the drops), then I think you should be good.

Great build on that Merlin too, RLD (reproduction limp dick) should round out the package nicely. Let me know if you don't want that pesky rear brake.


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## surfoverhill (Feb 8, 2008)

Thanks Eric; Yeah that pesky rear brake is what I did this entire build around (very long ($) story to get the brake). Saw the merlin on Ebay and noticed it had a ubrake so I went for it rather than re-boss my Ibis.


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

surfoverhill said:


> Thanks Eric; Yeah that pesky rear brake is what I did this entire build around (very long ($) story to get the brake). Saw the merlin on Ebay and noticed it had a ubrake so I went for it rather than re-boss my Ibis.


i would significantly lower the brake levers on that hbar.:thumbsup:


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

surfoverhill said:


> Thanks Eric; Yeah that pesky rear brake is what I did this entire build around (very long ($) story to get the brake). Saw the merlin on Ebay and noticed it had a ubrake so I went for it rather than re-boss my Ibis.


Haha, there have been bikes built around less significant parts.  It ultimately would have been just as expensive to re-boss and re-paint your Ibis...except now you have two bikes!



colker1 said:


> i would significantly lower the brake levers on that hbar.:thumbsup:


Agreed.


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

Do you think that RockShox fork the first edition of their production forks? Looks just like the one I have from a 94 Specialized except gold instead of silver. I don't remember anything prior.

Decided to answer my own question. Here is the scoop.

Rock Shox Museum


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## rigidftw (Mar 21, 2010)

first proper warm day around here. time to roll out on the good stuff.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

rigidftw said:


> first proper warm day around here. time to roll out on the good stuff.


Nice!

I had mine out the other day too.


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Rumpfy said:


> Nice!
> 
> I had mine out the other day too.


That's my favourite from all your bikes. what brake levers are those?


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## rigidftw (Mar 21, 2010)

looks like dura ace, bl-7402.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

colker1 said:


> That's my favourite from all your bikes. what brake levers are those?


Thanks, its one of my faves too. A couple dozen miles and almost 4k footies and comfy all the way though.



rigidftw said:


> looks like dura ace, bl-7402.


 ^^^ This. ^^^


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## Joe Steel (Dec 30, 2003)

Visual comparison of Nitto Dirt Drop stem and Salsa P10:


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## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

Questionable pictures


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## RFC (Apr 22, 2008)

Lately, I have been riding more, wrenching less, and practicing N-3+1. Here is +1.

I have been intrigued by some of the new "Gravel Grinders" on the market, particularly the Salsa Ti Vaya. So, before I dropped serious cash on the Vaya, I wanted to see what I could come up with. Besides, it's more fun that way and keeps me from engaging in antisocial behavior.

So, I began searching for just the right Ti MTB frame. For a drop bar setup, it needed to be a fairly large, older frame (shorter TT) built for a rigid fork (more HT). This really put me in the late 80's and early 90's (C&V).

I finally found the right frame -- a 1990 Russian frame manufactured for a Dutch bike company. The very kind and knowledgeable Dutch seller described the heritage to me as follows:

Many thanks for your shown interest ! A Dutchman ( Gijs van Tuyl) took up the idea to go east and have frames built from Russian army spec titanium. The early frames were also built at army facilities , I think this was near Novigrod. Later van Tuyl got EU money to start also other eatern Europe production facilities. Comparing the frame with other brands is difficult , I tried to make the description in the auction as honest and detailed as possible . In short: well built (good proportions , well welded) with many integrated details , the shaping of the tubes could have been better . The bike you built with this frame will be a good versitale ride.​
The frame arrived last week and I just finished the build. The components are a combination of old and new that I like and had around. The design is really function driven. My most specific design detail was to stick with the threaded fork so I could use a tall (VO) stem adapter with threadless stems. The combination of several inches of useful stem plus a choice of threadless stems of different lengths and angles gives me a great deal of fit flexibility for different conditions.

I am also considering whether it would be possible to convert the bike to 700 wheels so I could pool different wheel/tire/cassette combinations with my cyclocross bike.

Does anyone make long reach cantis that would work for the conversion or how about V-brakes.

At any rate, it's hit 60 degrees here and I'm out the door to grind.

Have a great weekend.

RFC


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Neat project! Longer (bigger wheel) reach with v's can be had with the BMX version of Paul's Motolite.


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## rigidftw (Mar 21, 2010)

i don't think 28" wheels will work in that frame/fork.


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## muddybuddy (Jan 31, 2007)

You can usually put 700c wheels with narrowish road cross tires in a 26" frame/fork depending on how much clearance you have. For brakes, these adapters should work for relocating the canti posts. Mavic also makes something similar.

Xtracycle 26" to 700c Brake Post Conversion Adapter | | Bike Trailer Shop


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## fenderbender (Feb 28, 2008)

*Diamond Back Axis Pro 1992 commuter*



Joe Steel said:


> Visual comparison of Nitto Dirt Drop stem and Salsa P10:


Thanks for sharing! I'll probably get a 10cm DD for my next projekt. 
Just like to ad that the Nitto Technomic Standard may not look right but work pretty well. Here fitted with a 1 1/8 shim on a parts bin commuter I cobbled together. Thought the 130mm version would be to long but gave it a try. Tuned out to be spot on as the bars move backwards the higher they sit. Also fitted a 46cm Salsa Bell Lap donated by a friend, Dura-Ace SL-7700 9sp shifters, Tektro levers and some '89 Deore II BR-MT62 cantis. With some good 'ol ceramic 217 rims and XTR ceramic pads braking is on par with most mech disc's.


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## misterdangerpants (Oct 10, 2007)

fenderbender said:


> ....some '89 Deore II BR-MT62 cantis.....


Wicked cool cable hanger! :thumbsup:

Here's my drop bar beast. Not VRC but it has quite a few VRC parts.

In the wild:









Out of the wild:


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## fenderbender (Feb 28, 2008)

Thanks, about the only cool thing on that bike! ; )
Love your "supermotard-style" build and the use of thumbies! 
I recently sold my Cooks that I got in '94 for a Litespeed Obed build. Damn, they sure have a wide q-factor! That cable hanger come off that same same bike. Think I still have the Campa OR Record cantis and Titec 118 bar some were.
I'll probably give that thumbie shifters trick a try on my next Miyata parts bin tourer build. Could use the Suntour bar con shifters I had planed to use on a Bridgestone RB-T instead.
Just noticed Paul Components have some new thumbie mounts! Also spent some time last night flicking through the pics of these gorgeous classic dirt drop mtb's!
Edit: Aha, thought I'd seen your Firefly some where before! Hope you don't mind cuz it's a beautie! :thumbsup:


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## misterdangerpants (Oct 10, 2007)

fenderbender said:


> Just noticed Paul Components have some new thumbie mounts!


Thanks for the compliments! 

By the way, the thumbies aren't new rather just the current version upside down.  Clever installation indeed!


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

LNBright said:


> Newbaums Bar Tape


WOW, those are some really bright colors perfect for a Harlequin tape job.


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

misterdangerpants said:


> Thanks for the compliments!


Another good looking build for you, but man that thing has pain written all over it after about a mile. At least for us not used to advanced road bike posture.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Not mine but I saw it for sale on ebay.


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)




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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Gnurley!


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## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

surfoverhill said:


> I wanted to get some feedback on the bar position before I send the stem design to Joel at Clockwork for my new 1" LD stem. This is my first drop bar bike. Here is what the bike looks like now with a mock up adjustable stem. I am planning on have it built about 3/4"-1" lower than it is shown here. It is as low as it will go but feels pretty good. I'm fat, old and broken so it will not be doing anything very technical. Fire roads and easy single track.
> 
> The stem will end up 6.8" tall with a 2.9" reach.


How is this dirt drop Merlin coming along? Did you receive your RLD stem yet? I'm considering a similar "Merlingham" with a stem from Clockwork, but I'm not exactly certain of proper stem dimensions.


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## ong (Jun 26, 2006)

I've been riding dirt drops for the last few years on my commuter mountain bike, but I quickly found that I really liked interrupter levers. For quite some time I used cantilevers, but they drove me nuts (adjustability, braking power). When I switched to xt v-brakes I used travel agents, but those kind of drove me nuts as well (added a ton of cable friction, and always felt super spongy).

The only reason I didn't switch to long pull drop levers was that I found myself on the interrupters 75% of the time. Finally, I found these guys:

http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bl41.htm

They work amazingly well. I'd recommend them to anyone who is looking to use linear brakes on a drop bar bike.


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## digilux (Mar 23, 2007)

I have a second build for this summer in addition to the Cannondale project:



















Not sure if I am going to do a single speed drop bar build or with bar end shifters... hmm...


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## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

Road bikes and road bike parts are a bit foreign to me, but I'm venturing into the off road dirtdrop area and was wondering what these little clamp thingees are. Circled in red here:










Are they available other than with the original WTB shifter mounts?

BTW pic is courtesy of BMC Mike


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## digilux (Mar 23, 2007)

To index set the position of the sifter mount upwards or downwards I'll guess.


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## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

digilux said:


> To index set the position of the sifter mount upwards or downwards I'll guess.


Yes, I understand that it is a way to adjust the angle of the shifter mount with respect to the bars. What a meant was what are the clamps called? and are they used for other road bike applications? and what should I Google for to find them? Or are they a WTB-only item and I'm screwed and will have to make them from scratch?

cheers:thumbsup:


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## digilux (Mar 23, 2007)

It's an aftermarket item, suntour had an complete touring drop bar shifter system with a dual shifter hande so you could shif both on top position on the bars but also in the drop

Cheers


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## muddybuddy (Jan 31, 2007)

That part is the base for early Suntour thumbies. It's the black part attached to that, that you're not going to be able to find.


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## Shogun700 (Jun 15, 2009)

classen said:


> Yes, I understand that it is a way to adjust the angle of the shifter mount with respect to the bars. What a meant was what are the clamps called? and are they used for other road bike applications? and what should I Google for to find them? Or are they a WTB-only item and I'm screwed and will have to make them from scratch?
> 
> cheers:thumbsup:


In addition to what Muddybuddy said, the Suntour XC/Power thumbie bases are just a bit too small to clamp on some road bars (at least on my RM-2's, maybe others are smaller diameter?), and without the WTB mount the shifters are not in an ideal location. I ended up drilling and tapping my levers and direct-mounted the shifters to them-it works but I have some ergonomic issues to sort out, in the middle gears the shift levers are an inch too close to the bars and interfere with your hands in the drops.

As a side note, this project is now almost complete, just a couple details left and the aforementioned shifter placement. It's more fun to ride than I expected, and I was surprised how natural the bars felt on a tight wooded trail.


----------



## digilux (Mar 23, 2007)

Shogun700 said:


> In addition to what Muddybuddy said, the Suntour XC/Power thumbie bases are just a bit too small to clamp on some road bars (at least on my RM-2's, maybe others are smaller diameter?), and without the WTB mount the shifters are not in an ideal location. I ended up drilling and tapping my levers and direct-mounted the shifters to them-it works but I have some ergonomic issues to sort out, in the middle gears the shift levers are an inch too close to the bars and interfere with your hands in the drops.
> 
> As a side note, this project is now almost complete, just a couple details left and the aforementioned shifter placement. It's more fun to ride than I expected, and I was surprised how natural the bars felt on a tight wooded trail.


Nice project. Question how do you find the LePre derailleurs is to adjust and use. I have a couple of those but did not find them easy to adjust or to use. But progressive design and funny evolutionary dead end with regard to derailleur design.


----------



## Shogun700 (Jun 15, 2009)

digilux said:


> Nice project. Question how do you find the LePre derailleurs is to adjust and use. I have a couple of those but did not find them easy to adjust or to use. But progressive design and funny evolutionary dead end with regard to derailleur design.


It's hard to tell just yet-I wasn't impressed on my ride yesterday, but I realized I didn't prewind the cage spring enough when I assembled it, so there was not adequate chain tension. The RD is an XC model, I added the tri-pulley cage from a NOS Suntour ARX unit, so the spring itself should be fine. I'd read that the 3-pulley was commonly sold as an aftermarket 'upgrade'....gotta love those dead end, questionable upgrade parts. I mounted it partially for the novelty, the bike is such an oddball I thought it deserved something similarly 'out there'.

I'll report back after I set the tension properly give it another try. You said you've used these before, do you have any idea if the chain length is set by the standard method? I'd love to see the instructions for this pulley setup.


----------



## digilux (Mar 23, 2007)

Shogun700 said:


> It's hard to tell just yet-I wasn't impressed on my ride yesterday, but I realized I didn't prewind the cage spring enough when I assembled it, so there was not adequate chain tension. The RD is an XC model, I added the tri-pulley cage from a NOS Suntour ARX unit, so the spring itself should be fine. I'd read that the 3-pulley was commonly sold as an aftermarket 'upgrade'....gotta love those dead end, questionable upgrade parts. I mounted it partially for the novelty, the bike is such an oddball I thought it deserved something similarly 'out there'.
> 
> I'll report back after I set the tension properly give it another try. You said you've used these before, do you have any idea if the chain length is set by the standard method? I'd love to see the instructions for this pulley setup.


Hi regarding chain length I have read that the soul idea behind this dead end oddball was that you could have the same high range gearing but shorter chain than similar systems. Cant remember comparing chain lengths.

Regarding the performance and adjustments I found the LePree dificoult to engange correctly and keep position on repeating shifting up and down (stress test shifting). I love the design due to the three pulleys and will at some later stage give them another try.

Like to learn about your experience!


----------



## Shogun700 (Jun 15, 2009)

Thanks for the info-interesting about a shorter chain, when I had it set up that way it would pull the forward pulley up off the chain when running middle front/large back cog and I wasn't sure if all 3 pulleys are supposed to be on the chain at all times. I will continue to experiment and let you know.


----------



## digilux (Mar 23, 2007)

Shogun700 said:


> Thanks for the info-interesting about a shorter chain, when I had it set up that way it would pull the forward pulley up off the chain when running middle front/large back cog and I wasn't sure if all 3 pulleys are supposed to be on the chain at all times. I will continue to experiment and let you know.


Maby Jeff @ FirstFlight/MOMBAT have more spesific info and maby old documentation?


----------



## rigidftw (Mar 21, 2010)

maybe a tad short for digilux, but fits me well


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## digilux (Mar 23, 2007)

rigidftw said:


> maybe a tad short for digilux, but fits me well


Agh... thats What I call a sissy stem 

Very nice bike though is it a bit to small to you ref the tall seat post? Looks like you are a 34" inseam like me :thumbsup:


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## rigidftw (Mar 21, 2010)

33" inseam it is. and the bike has just the right size for me. 
seat post isn't tall at all, it's the front that's stubby and low. but i like it. looks more aggressive, makes for quite quick steering and it feels awfully fast


----------



## -Anomie- (Jan 16, 2005)

muddybuddy said:


> That part is the base for early Suntour thumbies. It's the black part attached to that, that you're not going to be able to find.


Which is why I'm working on getting a bunch made :thumbsup:. Steve Potts gave me his approval to copy the WTB design (since he had no intention of making more himself) so I'm working with a CNC shop to get the reproductions made. I don't know how much they are going to cost yet, but if anyone is interested in a set feel free to PM me so I can start a waiting list.

(I'll be happy to buy a classified ad as soon as I have the price figured out.)


----------



## rudymexico (Aug 14, 2010)

rigidftw said:


> maybe a tad short for digilux, but fits me well


Nice bike :thumbsup:


----------



## laffeaux (Jan 4, 2004)

I've posted this bike in the past, but it's been a while. This past weekend I two long rides: Saturday we biked to a small town that's 47 miles (by dirt road and trail) from home and camped that night, Sunday we rode home. In total we covered just over 94 miles and and 13,200 feet of elevation gain in two days. The dirt drops and bike did great!


----------



## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

Very nice EL. Did the stem give you enough rise? I really like that build of yours. Did you have to haul a backpack too?  Very studly!

I love everybody's phoenixes. Such a workingman's bike.


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## laffeaux (Jan 4, 2004)

girlonbike said:


> Very nice EL. Did the stem give you enough rise? I really like that build of yours. Did you have to haul a backpack too?  Very studly!
> 
> I love everybody's phoenixes. Such a workingman's bike.


Yep, the handlebars are plenty high, and plenty comfortable. 

The ride organizers have a trailer (pulled by a truck) that carries all of the camping gear to the campsite. There's also lunch provided along the way, two rest stops each day (although if you go off-route like we did you tend to miss the rest stops), and dinner and showers on Saturday night. All that I had to carry was water, camera, rain gear (which wasn't needed), and a little bit of extra food. A perfect way to spend the weekend.


----------



## halaburt (Jan 13, 2004)

laffeaux said:


> I've posted this bike in the past, but it's been a while.


16.5" or 18" frame? It looks like a 16.5 (which would make in >='97 I think, but maybe re-sprayed with the earlier decals?


----------



## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Sounds awesome---have any pics of the ride?


----------



## laffeaux (Jan 4, 2004)

halaburt said:


> 16.5" or 18" frame? It looks like a 16.5 (which would make in >='97 I think, but maybe re-sprayed with the earlier decals?


Yep, it's a 16.5" and one of the last Phoenix frames made. It had a crack at the bottom of the seat tube slot. Steve repaired the crack (which made a repaint necessary) and built the Type-II for me a few years back. When I had it painted I picked the earlier decals as I prefer them.



yo-Nate-y said:


> Sounds awesome---have any pics of the ride?


I took several GoPro videos along the way, but I've not had a chance to do anything with them yet. I've taken still pictures in the past, but it's hard to capture the beauty of the mountains, trails, flowers, and bikes in a still shot.


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

laffeaux said:


> but it's hard to capture the beauty of the mountains, trails, flowers, and bikes in a still shot.


You need me!


----------



## laffeaux (Jan 4, 2004)

laffeaux said:


> Yep, the handlebars are plenty high, and plenty comfortable.


Going back to the debate on how high drop bars should (or should not) be... Those of us with long arms and legs can run the bars below our saddle height and still have an upright ride. Here's me (looking goofy) at the start of the ride.


----------



## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

laffeaux said:


> Going back to the debate on how high drop bars should (or should not) be... Those of us with long arms and legs can run the bars below our saddle height and still have an upright ride. Here's me (looking goofy) at the start of the ride.


oh yeah. that looks perfect!


----------



## hollister (Sep 16, 2005)




----------



## Howley (Nov 23, 2005)

*Long Hard Rides are Good*










15th Annual Boise to Idaho City MTB Tour
Web site: www.mtbikeidaho.com


----------



## -Anomie- (Jan 16, 2005)

A little OT, but at least the name and a couple of the parts are vintage:


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

BLING!!! 
How're are you liking the ride?


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

-Anomie- said:


> A little OT, but at least the name and a couple of the parts are vintage:


Nice bike vintage or not. I see you have the ebay stem. It's the nicest looking threadless riser stem out there. How did you mount the shifters?


----------



## -Anomie- (Jan 16, 2005)

jeff said:


> BLING!!!
> How're are you liking the ride?


I like it, this is the first 29er I've spent any time on so I'm still getting used to it, but so far, so good. These Breezer frames have a slightly steeper geometry than most, so they handle quicker and are more maneuverable a slow speeds in technical terrain, more like a Bontrager than a Ritchey (to use a vintage analogy).



CS2 said:


> Nice bike vintage or not. I see you have the ebay stem. It's the nicest looking threadless riser stem out there. How did you mount the shifters?


I had to make my own clamps. The carbon ones that come with the shifters are bolted on, so I just carved some new ones with larger diameter holes out of a block of 6061. They aren't perfect, but they work and you can barely see them under the bar tape:

Started with this:










Finished with these:


----------



## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

laffeaux said:


> I've posted this bike in the past, but it's been a while. This past weekend I two long rides: Saturday we biked to a small town that's 47 miles (by dirt road and trail) from home and camped that night, Sunday we rode home. In total we covered just over 94 miles and and 13,200 feet of elevation gain in two days. The dirt drops and bike did great!


Sounds like a cool ride, EL. Oh, and a nice looking bike!


----------



## hollister (Sep 16, 2005)




----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

-Anomie- said:


> I like it, this is the first 29er I've spent any time on so I'm still getting used to it, but so far, so good. These Breezer frames have a slightly steeper geometry than most, so they handle quicker and are more maneuverable a slow speeds in technical terrain, more like a Bontrager than a Ritchey (to use a vintage analogy).
> 
> I had to make my own clamps. The carbon ones that come with the shifters are bolted on, so I just carved some new ones with larger diameter holes out of a block of 6061. They aren't perfect, but they work and you can barely see them under the bar tape:
> 
> ...


WOW, you are my hero. You need to start a separate thread describing the whole process. That looks great.


----------



## digilux (Mar 23, 2007)

This is my M900 drop-bar with the rare all aluminium fork. This 11/8 peperonies with alu stedertube was factory recalled - but I did not turn it in ;-)










Frame & fork have been rebuild with different parts several times and stolen twice. Currently build up for a +3000km bicycle tour next year.


----------



## Dirty Tiger (Nov 2, 2008)

I have a question about sizing. 
If you are looking for a MTB to convert to drop bars do you:

Go with your standard size, Or do you go one size bigger or smaller.


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Dirty Tiger said:


> I have a question about sizing.
> If you are looking for a MTB to convert to drop bars do you:
> 
> Go with your standard size, Or do you go one size bigger or smaller.


you want your bar as high or higher than saddle. So, normal to bigger.


----------



## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

I'm having trouble finding a 1 1/4 quill stem that would work well with dirt drops. Any suggestions appreciated!


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Sizzler said:


> I'm having trouble finding a 1 1/4 quill stem that would work well with dirt drops. Any suggestions appreciated!


It might not be pretty but what about a threadless adaptor? Some are really tall. It's the only thing I can think of. Good luck


----------



## Buddysnack (Jan 30, 2013)

Let's see if this works....

Here is a quick iphone photo. I just threw on some Kendas for now...
















(yes those are Epos speakers in the background)


----------



## -Anomie- (Jan 16, 2005)

CS2 said:


> WOW, you are my hero. You need to start a separate thread describing the whole process. That looks great.


I apologize for taking so long to reply, I only check in here every few weeks and didn't see your comment until now. The process was pretty simple, just a few hours of filing and sanding, and lots of eyeballing it. Here's a brief "photo essay" to add to the shots above:


----------



## -Anomie- (Jan 16, 2005)

Buddysnack said:


> Let's see if this works....
> 
> Here is a quick iphone photo. I just threw on some Kendas for now...
> 
> ...


Nice, like that fork too. To get the photo to show up in the post, replace url and /url with "







" (no quotes).


----------



## Buddysnack (Jan 30, 2013)

-Anomie- said:


> Nice, like that fork too. To get the photo to show up in the post, replace url and /url with "
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I guess I am not the first one to struggle with this. I am not getting any url text in my photo. From the album page there are 2 links:
-picture URL
-bb code

Do I use either of those?

Tomorrow...


----------



## -Anomie- (Jan 16, 2005)

No, ignore those, just copy the URL of the photo, paste it into your message, and put "







" after the URL (like I said above, no quotes).


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Not a bad entrance Buddy.


----------



## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

He's not your buddy, guy!

(sorry, Canadian joke) NICE BRODIE! More pics please.


----------



## patineto (Oct 28, 2005)




----------



## Buddysnack (Jan 30, 2013)

OK, so I did a quick photo shoot today, although I plan to clean it up, put on a new chain/tires and do a proper photo session.


----------



## Buddysnack (Jan 30, 2013)




----------



## Buddysnack (Jan 30, 2013)




----------



## Buddysnack (Jan 30, 2013)




----------



## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

very nice pictures, Colin and a very very very beautiful bike. That's a lot of Neopolitan pizza there.  Who did you say made the forks?


----------



## Buddysnack (Jan 30, 2013)

Quick specs:
-1988 Brodie Romax #384 (filet brazed by Paul Brodie himself). It was originally owned by Barry from Spinning Wheels. It was originally Red and Yellow (I will post a pic eventually)
-Repainted by Tony Beek in Toronto around 1992 (full toptube length fade). Unfortunately I couldn't get original decals.
-Ripe Pipe Filet Brazed forks and Stem. I took the bike touring so I had the braze-ons added for racks. Ripe Pipe was run by Ross Storoniak and Krys Hines. Ross was an amazing craftsman and totally self taught. Krys now owns Cafe Domestique in Dundas Ontario.
-WTB drops, shifter mounts, brakes, hubs and headset.
-Brodie Brake Boosters
-Mavic MA40 rims with 14/15 butted spokes & alloy nipples.
-American Classic water bottle cages and quick releases.
-XT 6 speed shifters
-XCD 6000 front derailleur
-XT m735 rear derailleur with blue pulleys with bearings (not sure what kind)
-Specialized 175 Cranks, with a 24 tooth Onza Stainless Steel small ring
-Specialized Ti Bottom Bracket
-Shimano 600 6speed cassette (14-32)
-Shimano Grand Royal Compe brake leavers
-Flite Saddle
-Syncros seatpost

I was smart enough to lend this bike to my dad, who recently got back surgery, so I got it back. Some scratches on the paint and the rear hub is loose, but overall it's in really good shape.


----------



## Buddysnack (Jan 30, 2013)

girlonbike said:


> very nice pictures, Colin and a very very very beautiful bike. That's a lot of Neopolitan pizza there.  Who did you say made the forks?


As I mentioned in my last post, the forks and stem were made by Ripe Pipe, which was a small company from Toronto Canada. They built about 25 bikes in total, each was given a name and not a number. Ross still has some of the nicest filet brazed road bikes around that he built over 20 years ago. He gave them to Tony at Beeks and said do whatever you want. The best paint jobs I have ever seen.


----------



## Buddysnack (Jan 30, 2013)

Hey Yo-Nate,

I used to have a Zunow as well with a Ripe Pipe stem:


----------



## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

Your Brodie is drop dead gorgeous and my favorite Brodie so far.


----------



## Buddysnack (Jan 30, 2013)

girlonbike said:


> Your Brodie is drop dead gorgeous and my favorite Brodie so far.


Thanks girlonbike! It was a labour of love 20 years ago that I just rediscovered. Looking forward to taking it for a ride.


----------



## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

That Zunow is fantastic. I'm always on the lookout for one in my size.

...to say nothing of your Brodie. Holy moly. Nice build. Super nice build. That bike is a beaut!


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

That thing is fully rad.


----------



## Stemag (Oct 28, 2011)

Sorry for poluting the thread with a N0ob question.

Can someone explain to me why there always seems to be bar end shifters on dirt drop bars?

I am planning on putting a On-one midge on my cx, and I have STI-shifters. 
I´ve read somewhere that it is not working so good because the shifter are “leaning outwards”?


----------



## laffeaux (Jan 4, 2004)

Stemag said:


> Can someone explain to me why there always seems to be bar end shifters on dirt drop bars?
> 
> I am planning on putting a On-one midge on my cx, and I have STI-shifters.
> I´ve read somewhere that it is not working so good because the shifter are "leaning outwards"?


When dirt drops first became popular there were no STI shifters. So originally that's why barcons where used. Today barcons are still popular because (a) they're cheaper than STI levers, (b) if you crash your bike they are less likely to be damaged, and (c) they work well.

I briefly ran STI levers on a dirt drop setup and it worked fine. The angled levers felt fine to me as well (a bit "different" on the first ride or two, but easy to adjust to). On dirt drops I rarely ride on the hoods, so their shape is much less significant than on a road bike.


----------



## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Not always.



Mountain bikes don't have down tube shifters. Outside if that, lots of options. Try your STI.


----------



## DanielLondon (May 30, 2013)

Ignore this comment.


----------



## muddybuddy (Jan 31, 2007)

Prior to the introduction of specific off-road drop bars, what bars were they using? I think I remember reading somewhere that Cinelli 65s were a popular choice, but were they modified at all for off-road use?


----------



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Yes, flared.


----------



## rasumichin (Oct 21, 2008)

Drop bars especially fit single speed builds. It's just great to push them uphills in the drops. Feels like a wheel barrow.


----------



## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Is your front qr open?


----------



## hollister (Sep 16, 2005)

AC skewer and a shrouded dropout, gotta run it forward or reversed


----------



## rasumichin (Oct 21, 2008)

^
what he says


----------



## -Anomie- (Jan 16, 2005)

Stemag said:


> Sorry for poluting the thread with a N0ob question.
> 
> Can someone explain to me why there always seems to be bar end shifters on dirt drop bars?
> 
> ...


Here's what I did on my modern bike with drop bars. I had to make the bar clamps myself (drop bars having a larger diameter than flat bars) but other than that it was fairly easy to set up.


----------



## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Wow--that is a serious shroud!


----------



## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

+10 points for the use of the word, "shroud," in the VRC forum or anywhere on mtbr for that matter.


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Stemag said:


> Sorry for poluting the thread with a N0ob question.
> 
> Can someone explain to me why there always seems to be bar end shifters on dirt drop bars?
> 
> ...


First, this is the vintage bike board. Barend shifters have been around for many, many years. Road STI, not so much.

Second, I use STI levers on Midge bars. I think they work BETTER on flared bars. Easier to reach and move the levers.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

muddybuddy said:


> Prior to the introduction of specific off-road drop bars, what bars were they using? I think I remember reading somewhere that Cinelli 65s were a popular choice, but were they modified at all for off-road use?


I started with Cinelli Crit bars, self flared.


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

laffeaux said:


> When dirt drops first became popular there were no STI shifters. So originally that's why barcons where used. Today barcons are still popular because (a) they're cheaper than STI levers, (b) if you crash your bike they are less likely to be damaged, and (c) they work well.
> 
> I briefly ran STI levers on a dirt drop setup and it worked fine. The angled levers felt fine to me as well (a bit "different" on the first ride or two, but easy to adjust to). On dirt drops I rarely ride on the hoods, so their shape is much less significant than on a road bike.


I have broken more barend shifters (2-3, snapped lever) than STI shifters (none from crash damage, 2 wore out).


----------



## Funrover (Oct 4, 2006)

Man this thread really gets me thinking!


----------



## Stemag (Oct 28, 2011)

shiggy said:


> Second, I use STI levers on Midge bars. I think they work BETTER on flared bars. Easier to reach and move the levers.


Thank you.

I have tried it now, and it works just fine. Very nice feeling, much better Control on singeltrack.

My only problem now is (ike for everybody else Dirt drop newbis) my bar is to low.

I put the bar on my cross, and of course that frame is to low in the front.

So my options is: a new stem or a frame suited for dirt drop (like a Singular Gryphon maybe) ;-)

I wonder what my wife thinks is the most budget way to go? ;-)


----------



## jchewey (Sep 19, 2005)

My Version


----------



## chefmiguel (Dec 22, 2007)

Nice!


----------



## nowhere-man (Feb 3, 2012)

*Here's my finished project*

Panasonic + Nitto DirtDrop Stem + RM-014 bar


----------



## nightshade_rider (Apr 18, 2007)

nowhere-man said:


> Panasonic + Nitto DirtDrop Stem + RM-014 bar


The RM-14s are really a sweet bar for dirt drop setup. I started riding them last year on my cross bike and liked them so much I replaced the WTB drops on my Salsa MTB with another pair of RM-14s. A bit less radical spread and flare than the WTBs with somewhat more usable area on the tops and ramps. Nitto is selling this bar again as RM-014s but sadly only comes in 31.8 clamp size.


----------



## nowhere-man (Feb 3, 2012)

nightshade_rider said:


> The RM-14s are really a sweet bar for dirt drop setup. I started riding them last year on my cross bike and liked them so much I replaced the WTB drops on my Salsa MTB with another pair of RM-14s. A bit less radical spread and flare than the WTBs with somewhat more usable area on the tops and ramps. Nitto is selling this bar again as RM-014s but sadly only comes in 31.8 clamp size.


Now, can you send your unused WTB bar to me please?


----------



## nightshade_rider (Apr 18, 2007)

nowhere-man said:


> Now, can you send your unused WTB bar to me please?


Sure, the one from the Salsa had been cut down about 3/4" for barcons, but I have another uncut one available, 25.4 clamp diameter methinks. I can check when I get home from work.


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

shiggy said:


> I use STI levers on Midge bars. I think they work BETTER on flared bars. Easier to reach and move the levers.


A question for the expert. I'm thinking about using a set of Campy Ergo shifters on either a Midge or Salsa Woodchipper. Are the thumb shifter hard to access on them? I can see how Shimano or SRAM would work well. Thanks


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

I ran the same set up for a bit using Wood Chippers and Ergo 8speed. Seeing that your hand position relative to the levers is not much different when in the hooks it felt the same to me. One negative I found was if my hands were weighted heavily it tended to want pull my thumb away from the shifter some. It just takes a bit more effort. On the hoods it's a different story entirely. Unless you have freak thumbs it's tough to reach the trigger.


CS2 said:


> A question for the expert. I'm thinking about using a set of Campy Ergo shifters on either a Midge or Salsa Woodchipper. Are the thumb shifter hard to access on them? I can see how Shimano or SRAM would work well. Thanks


----------



## Gruntled-1 (Jun 8, 2013)

Here is my drop bar two speed Ibis 28er.


----------



## Sixty Fiver (Apr 10, 2006)

Moulden Custom









Da Pug


----------



## Austin Dave (Jul 7, 2010)

I want to add Habanero Cycles' Stem Fit Chart to this thread to archive it. It's interesting and someone may find it useful.







https://www.habcycles.com/stemfit.jpg


----------



## fatchanceti (Jan 12, 2005)

-Anomie- said:


> Which is why I'm working on getting a bunch made :thumbsup:. Steve Potts gave me his approval to copy the WTB design (since he had no intention of making more himself) so I'm working with a CNC shop to get the reproductions made. I don't know how much they are going to cost yet, but if anyone is interested in a set feel free to PM me so I can start a waiting list.
> 
> (I'll be happy to buy a classified ad as soon as I have the price figured out.)


Any updates/progress on this? Very cool.


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

CS2 said:


> A question for the expert. I'm thinking about using a set of Campy Ergo shifters on either a Midge or Salsa Woodchipper. Are the thumb shifter hard to access on them? I can see how Shimano or SRAM would work well. Thanks


I have Sora levers (with thumb release levers) on one bike with Midge bars. Works no differently than on a road bar.


----------



## Shogun700 (Jun 15, 2009)

Sixty-Fiver, nice Tri-Pulley Suntour XC RD on that Pug! I had one on my Marinoni, it worked better than I thought it would.

Here is my winter ride, a 1988 Cannondale M700. I'm not quite final on the setup and build yet, but it's close. The combination of the high BB/steep head tube of the Cannondale BoE style frame with the drops is excellent, you can stay over the center of the bike in slippery conditions and just apply a little pressure right or left on the drops to steer. The change from flat bars on this frame was enormous, the steering was really quick before, this slows it just enough and it's now incredibly intuitive. I'm using old 7 speed RSX shifter/levers, they work well but need a rebuild to perform properly in the cold. Other than the bar setup the bike is mostly original. Even with flat bars, it's the best-fitting frame I've ridden, and has taught me a lot about how to set up my other bikes.


----------



## Steel29er (Jul 1, 2008)

*Stumpy*

My winter / rainy day rider.


----------



## oneschnark (Dec 16, 2013)

Hi, here is my Salsa 1989
The stem and hte fork are repaint


Philippe


----------



## Joe Steel (Dec 30, 2003)

So nice!


----------



## nightshade_rider (Apr 18, 2007)

oneschnark said:


> Hi, here is my Salsa 1989
> The stem and hte fork are repaint
> 
> Philippe


Very nice Philippe! My '89 has the same triangular gusset. I think soon afterwards, Salsa went to the Bontrager-style gusset that you see through the 90's production bikes, which allowed for a bit more compliance.

Please post some more photos in the http://forums.mtbr.com/vintage-retro-classic/official-salsa-thread-all-things-moto-376282-15.html


----------



## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Sweet bike.


----------



## Rock-o-holic (Oct 5, 2011)

Late 80's Grizzly. Suntour Command (butterfly) shifters.


----------



## laherna (Jun 14, 2009)




----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

NIce Rockcombo!


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Yeah. Original bars too.


----------



## Buddysnack (Jan 30, 2013)

What kind of tape do you use for your VRC build? I'm trying to decide between new Cinelli, Brooks leather, and possibly some NOS Cinelli. What do you like?


----------



## halaburt (Jan 13, 2004)

Cloth. Velox Tressostar or Newbaums. Velox often requires 4 rolls/bar. Newbaums is long and nice, but does seem to (UV) fade a bit faster -- perhaps owing to its "eco-friendly" dyes.


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

What Hala said, always cloth. Newbaums for me.


----------



## singlecross (Aug 11, 2008)

Just back from shakedown ride... so far, so GOOD! 1991 Stumpjumper Comp built with black LX, Salsa woodchippers, and Deore Thumbies on drop bar mounts.


----------



## fatchanceti (Jan 12, 2005)

awesome.


----------



## scooderdude (Sep 27, 2004)

Not sure if I posted this bike previously (and too lazy to search the thread). '92 Salsa ala Carte jelly bean with WTB drops, Bontrager composite fork and P7 stem.


----------



## chefmiguel (Dec 22, 2007)

Nice, which seat cluster arrangement came on that one?


----------



## Dirt Drops (Oct 25, 2013)

Hey, first post on MTBR...my name says it all. I'm too young to have been around during the heyday of the dirt drop, but appreciate it in all of its glory. Working on setting up a Bontrager Privateer with dirt drops. Will drop some photos here as the build progresses. You're also welcome to follow along as I post more on IG via @dirt_drops.


----------



## Joe Steel (Dec 30, 2003)

That looks great Scooderdude! How'd you like the ride? Do you have it set up the way you like now?


----------



## revcp (Jun 21, 2007)

Great thread.
This is my 1986 High Sierra budget build (original brakes, wheels, bb, derailleurs--sontour xc--and seatpost. Saddle from a 1985 Miyata 610 (my Brooks B17 is on that), barstem, bars and levers from a $15 1984 Miyata 210, $20 suntour barcons from CL, Planet Bike bartape, parts bin deore xt crank arms with the original High Sierra chainrings, Shimano HG37 Freewheel, $5 CL VP spd pedals, CST 2.4" Cyclops tires.


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Great rig for fire roads.


revcp said:


> Great thread.
> This is my 1986 High Sierra budget build (original brakes, wheels, bb, derailleurs--sontour xc--and seatpost. Saddle from a 1985 Miyata 610 (my Brooks B17 is on that), barstem, bars and levers from a $15 1984 Miyata 210, $20 suntour barcons from CL, Planet Bike bartape, parts bin deore xt crank arms with the original High Sierra chainrings, Shimano HG37 Freewheel, $5 CL VP spd pedals, CST 2.4" Cyclops tires.


----------



## Clockwork Bikes (Jun 17, 2006)

Benedict shredding on a Clockwork frame and LD!


----------



## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

Clockwork Bikes said:


> Benedict shredding on a Clockwork frame and LD!


Great picture! How does that front disc work with the 1/2" (or are those 3/8"?) fork blades? No flex issues? What's the story on those skinwall Ardents?? Cool!


----------



## Clockwork Bikes (Jun 17, 2006)

They're standard fork blades with a thicker wall.


----------



## oneschnark (Dec 16, 2013)

Hi, AMERICAN 1991 / 92 with Nitto



Philippe


----------



## eastcoaststeve (Sep 19, 2007)

oneschnark said:


> Hi, AMERICAN 1991 / 92 with Nitto
> 
> 
> Philippe


That is awesome!

Looks aggressive too....great build.

Steve


----------



## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

oneschnark said:


> Hi, AMERICAN 1991 / 92 with Nitto
> 
> Philippe


Great looking bike and love the component choices. And all the visuals point to it being built by a skilled mechanic (which always make the bike look better). Thanks for sharing. I like it!

How do you like the bars? Was it hard to get them through that stem?


----------



## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Beautiful American. 

Serial number should tell you if it's a 91 or 92. 

Make mine clipless or at least toe clips. Never stay on the pedals that way myself.


----------



## oneschnark (Dec 16, 2013)

The stem is a GT.
No difficulty to get the Nitto through that stem.
I love this bike, and for Berlin , perfect


Phil.


----------



## tclar4 (Apr 9, 2007)

*Rawland Drakkar Dirt Dropper*

Just stumbled on this thread and thought I'd share a recent drop bar project.

I set out to build a gravel bike/dirt camper and stumbled across this Rawland Drakkar. It is designed to run up to 2.35" 29er tires and with a drop bar. Notice the longer top tube length and the height of the head tube to mask the stack height with a modern stem set up.

The hardest thing for me was erasing the mental picture of what a "serious" drop bar bike looks like, with the bars significantly lower that seat (i. e. top bar is #1 position!).

Anyway it really helped looking at the older Cunninghams, Salsas and WTBs to get the look burned into my mind as to what the proportions should look like.

That got me in the zone but now with hundreds of dirt and commuting miles on this thing I've lowered it a bit (to open all the hand positions w/out sacrificing the main drop position) and moved from a Midge to a slightly narrower SOMA Portola bar.


----------



## Joe Steel (Dec 30, 2003)

Don't remember if I've posted any of these on this thread - so I'll throw 'em all together in one post 
The "CamoTam"


The Ibis


An earlier Fisher Mt Tam that I converted to drop bar (sold to fellow VRC member with original flatbar setup)


The "Kleiningham"


I had this Ritchey P series built up for a while as a dropbar. Didn't fit. Stripped and sold.


And finally, the Potts


----------



## Buddysnack (Jan 30, 2013)

Porn...



Joe Steel said:


> Don't remember if I've posted any of these on this thread - so I'll throw 'em all together in one post
> The "CamoTam"
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Love the brown Ritchey..


----------



## Clockwork Bikes (Jun 17, 2006)




----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Clockwork Bikes said:


>


nice. it could use less gears behind and another upfront.. imho.


----------



## Joe Steel (Dec 30, 2003)

Nice Joel! Very cool.


----------



## Scoutergtg (Feb 20, 2014)

Love those Ardants! What size are they?


----------



## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

Clockwork Bikes said:


>


Great bike. Love the parts selection too; especially that Nitto 65 (Pearl?) seatpost w/ the Hite Rite mounted up to a Brooks. I think my only change if I ordered up one of those would be a request for some stouter fork blades (but I do love the early 80s look of them as they are). Is it raw or clear coated?


----------



## nightshade_rider (Apr 18, 2007)

Clockwork Bikes said:


>


Joel, that bike is way cool (even says so on the seattube).

I took the liberty of linking to your flickr build album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/clockworkbikes/sets/72157632468109162
That skinny bladed fork with internal hose routing and retro crown is quite an item. Now that I'm nursing rotator cuff tendonitus from riding a flat bar 29er with stout rigid fork, your compliant skinny-blade fork is looking pretty luxurious.

And the component choice is sweet but I would ditch the BB7s for maybe a set of those dual-action Spyres.


----------



## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Cool!


----------



## blak_byke (Jun 21, 2006)

*Trek 970*

Not as classy as some of you guys/gals rides but here she is in pavement mode....


----------



## Soundtallica (Jan 2, 2011)

*1989 GT Tequesta*

My dad had his old and barely used GT Tequesta laying around in his basement, so I decided to convert it to a drop bar commuting monster!
The thumb shifters that it came with conveniently had steel bands, so I was able to spread them a bit to fit on the ends of the drops so they operate like barcons.

I was pleasantly surprised at its 27.5 lb weight with heavy pedals and tires. I also added personal touches such as pink bar tape and its many stickers. My favorite is the "Bacon Powered" one on the top tube 

The thing rides great: it's smooth in the way only steel can be, and while it's heavier and slightly slower than a road oriented bike it doesn't feel sluggish. It's low profile so it's unlikely to attract thieves, and I'd like to try touring in the future and this would be a good bike to ride as well


----------



## RideAtDawn (Nov 4, 2014)

There are so many great bikes here. Lots of inspiration!

I've been SLOWLY rebuilding a 1990 stumpjumper I picked up off CL last year. 

I have 2 questions though. 

1) Does anyone know where I can find a pair of 25.4 Midge drops? I've been watching On One's site for quite a while, but they seem to be sold out every time I check. I've even tried ebay, but I haven't seen them in my clamp size. 

2) Does anyone have experience fitting 26x2.35 tires with fenders on an old stumpjumper or comparable bike? I really like the idea of fatty tires (schwalbe big apples or big bens), but I don't want to get them on there only to find out later I don't have room for a fender?

Thanks in advance for any help!


----------



## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

2.35 might fit, but likely not if you want fenders too. Depends on how old a Specialized and what kind of fenders, of course.


----------



## chefmiguel (Dec 22, 2007)

Good luck finding Midges in that size, check out the Origin8 Gary bars as a substitute. As far as big tires go, I got nothing.


----------



## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

RideAtDawn said:


> There are so many great bikes here. Lots of inspiration!
> 
> I've been SLOWLY rebuilding a 1990 stumpjumper I picked up off CL last year.
> 
> ...


Midge, 25.4, white in stock.
http://www.planet-x-usa.com/product-p/hboomi.htm


----------



## fatchanceti (Jan 12, 2005)

I have a 25.4 Midge that I'm not using. Hit me with a pm


----------



## hydepark (Jul 23, 2007)

We had the same frustration with On-One and Planet X and I love the Midge bars. Soma to the rescue! The Portola and Junebug bars are a close copy to the Midge, but better because the drop portion is a bit longer. The Portola is 26.0 and silver. The Junebug is 31.8 and black.


----------



## RideAtDawn (Nov 4, 2014)

Thanks everyone for the replies. I'm actually new to the forum and stoked to see how helpful everyone is.


----------



## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

Midge bar on a Rockhopper. Going friction shifting with Gevenalle (formerly Retroshift).


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

How does the positioning work out for the shifters with that bar? From here it looks like it would be difficult to reach them from the hoods.


tk1971 said:


> Midge bar on a Rockhopper. Going friction shifting with Gevenalle (formerly Retroshift).


----------



## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

jeff said:


> How does the positioning work out for the shifters with that bar? From here it looks like it would be difficult to reach them from the hoods.


Haven't been able to ride it yet. Just received the brake cable hanger yesterday, so I was able to finish up the front and wrap the left side of the bar.

In general the Gevenalle (Retroshift) stuff requires taking my hands off the drops and shifting from the hoods (as seen in the bar orientation in the pic). Once on the hoods, it takes minimum effort to throw it from one direction to another.

Since this is a general fire-road bike, I'm going to need to plan my shifts ahead of time, which shouldn't be a problem. Besides, I'm almost always in grannie gear when climbing so I won't be doing much shifting.

I'll report back after my first ride. I just need better brakes than the Exage stuff. New pads and they're already squealing on the repair stand during tuning.


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

tk1971 said:


> Midge bar on a Rockhopper. Going friction shifting with Gevenalle (formerly Retroshift).


That's a very nice Rockhopper. An extremely underrated bike.


----------



## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

RideAtDawn said:


> 2) Does anyone have experience fitting 26x2.35 tires with fenders on an old stumpjumper or comparable bike? I really like the idea of fatty tires (schwalbe big apples or big bens), but I don't want to get them on there only to find out later I don't have room for a fender?


From what I've seen at our local bike co-op, I think most older frames will fit a 2.35 big apple with fenders.

Here are my two successes (an 89 kuwahara which I replaced with an 85 bridgestone):



__
https://flic.kr/p/nPsbVf



__
https://flic.kr/p/oDZbzJ

Both frames had lots of clearance, and the biggest challenge is that I have to keep the fenders pretty low so that they don't interfere with the (non VRC) v-brakes. With cantis I don't think it would be a problem.


----------



## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

Finally took the Rockhopper up the San Olene Fireroad this weekend.

Almost right away, I had to raise the seatpost and slide the saddle back.

Going up was not bad (takes some getting used to). Angle of the bar needs to be adjusted, but I made it up to the top with minimum fuss.





Then I started going down. Sure enough, I found it difficult to keep my hands on the drops. The rough terrain and my speed would bump my hands off the bars. I had to make 2 adjustments to the angle of the bar before I finished going down. Here is where it settled to now.



Looks like I have some more tinkering to do. I ordered a longer quill stem adapter. I'm going to have to re-position the brake levers. I should have cut the brake cables / housing longer.

Overall, the bike performed very well. Surprisingly, the Exage brakes performed adequately. I used a razor to remove the excess "flashing" from the cheap replacement pads, so that it wouldn't rub against the tire sidewalls. I got rid of that pesky squealing with proper toe-in.

Can't wait to finalize the setup.

*
Added:* Got myself a taller stem adapter. Had to cut new cables and housing. Also fixed a minor oversight and added an inline barrel adjuster for the rear brake. Didn't like the look of the thin stem adapter, so I sleeved it up with an old/discarded/stretched-out grip.


----------



## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

2nd ride was much better. Got me the entry level GoPro, so here are some screen capture shots from the video:









No problems going down:


----------



## goto11 (Jun 12, 2009)

*Grrattitude*









I posted pics of my build in one of the other monstercross/drop bar MTB threads. There are lots of great builds and ideas here. After scrapping my first two attempts at building a monstercross bike (not including the Miyata Junior Ten 24" 10-speed I destroyed off-roading in the early 80's), this is my third and ultimate drop bar build. And I f%^*ing love it.


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

That's a good looking bike.


goto11 said:


> View attachment 947176
> 
> 
> I posted pics of my build in one of the other monstercross/drop bar MTB threads. There are lots of great builds and ideas here. After scrapping my first two attempts at building a monstercross bike (not including the Miyata Junior Ten 24" 10-speed I destroyed off-roading in the early 80's), this is my third and ultimate drop bar build. And I f%^*ing love it.


----------



## SeaTown (Sep 15, 2014)

First build up:









Beast mode:









Current:


----------



## Guest (Jan 21, 2015)

A Ham without Roller Cams?


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

shawnw said:


> A Ham without Roller Cams?


Quite a few out there like that.


----------



## goto11 (Jun 12, 2009)

jeff said:


> That's a good looking bike.


Thanks. This is as close to a road bike as I'll ever own, since I prefer to steer clear of cars, cops & concrete.


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

tk1971 I like your Rockhopper. Did you ever think about a bigger frame? That's a lot of seatpost and stem showing.


----------



## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

CS2 said:


> tk1971 I like your Rockhopper. Did you ever think about a bigger frame? That's a lot of seatpost and stem showing.


It actually fits me very really well. The bike feels very agile, and at no time do I feel like I'm going over the bars.

When I was researching all these posts about drop bar mtb conversions, I read from somewhere (probably this thread) that when converting a frame that is not specifically designed for a drop bar, starting off with a smaller frame is a good way to accommodate the longer reach with the drop bars.

I can ride faster on this bike than my Raleigh XC bike. The weight may have alot to do with it. The Rockhopper seems to be perfect in balance and weight (around 27 lbs). Very capable.

https://vid208.photobucket.com/albums/bb282/tk1971/RockHopper Santa Anita Drop_zpsbwxzv3ja.mp4

[video]https://vid208.photobucket.com/albums/bb282/tk1971/RockHopper%20Santa%20Anita%20Drop_zpsbwxzv3ja.mp4[/video]


----------



## mbond09 (Jan 25, 2014)

Where on earth are you people getting your quill stems from!!!
Is there is place that sells those curved goose neck looking stems or do I have to A) get one made or B) get lucky and find one on ebay


----------



## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

A. Try Clockwork. If you plan on B, start saving money, and developing patience (the first one in about a year just sold on Ebay a week or two ago). 

C. Buy a Nitto Dirt drop stem from Rivendelle.

Also your questions have already been answered in this thread. I would suggest skimming it at least, beginning to end.


----------



## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

Just put together another one.



Can't wait to ride it.


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

very nice.


----------



## -Anomie- (Jan 16, 2005)

mbond09 said:


> Where on earth are you people getting your quill stems from!!!


This is the threadless stem I use on my modern bikes. It looks sort of like an LD/gooseneck stem but costs a lot less. They're from a UK company but you can get them in the US, Google "humpert ergotech high charisma" (Brits have silly names for everything):


----------



## peter.thedrake (Aug 6, 2009)

Does that stem replace the headset topcap?


----------



## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ yup. It can actually makes things tough though, because I found it was _too_ high (I'd have preferred a 60 or 75mm) but there's no way to lower it without cutting the steerer.


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

newfangled said:


> ^ yup. It can actually makes things tough though, because I found it was _too_ high (I'd have preferred a 60 or 75mm) but there's no way to lower it without cutting the headtube.


Go to their website. They come in 2 heights. You might have the tall.


----------



## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I've definitely got the shorter 90mm one. But it added 1-1/2" of height when my 29er probably needed half that.

Basically, it's pretty dramatic. But I'm sure I'll find it handy when the revamped Luxy bar comes out and I'm trying to fit it to an old 26er.


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

newfangled said:


> ^ I've definitely got the shorter 90mm one. But it added 1-1/2" of height when my 29er probably needed half that.
> 
> Basically, it's pretty dramatic. But I'm sure I'll find it handy when the revamped Luxy bar comes out and I'm trying to fit it to an old 26er.


The short version is called the Charisma. It's 20 deg rise. The High Charisma, pictured above, is 45 deg.


----------



## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ ah, I see. But this was the typical dirtdrop struggle of height vs. reach, and a 20deg would have been too much reach. The 90/45deg sounded really promising, but for me it ended up being less comfortable than a shorter 35deg.


----------



## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

"King of the Gentle Slope"


----------



## kingpin_75s (Feb 2, 2011)

*2004 Dirt Drop Serotta Odile*

Having a blast with the Dirt Drop Odile :thumbsup: 53 degree rise custom Igleheart stem puts the Woodchippers in a good position for drops only riding. The stem I believe is very close to the specs for the original Salsa P10 stem (mine is more like a P9.5 for reach). Great cockpit setup and I will gladly accept the weight penalty for its functionality.


----------



## Buddysnack (Jan 30, 2013)

A couple generations


----------



## Buddysnack (Jan 30, 2013)




----------



## burritoguru (Aug 22, 2008)

*Dirt Drops in SFGate picture thread*

Not just any mountain bike, Dirt Drop Mountain Bike.









And there are so many other fun outdoorsy things to do here, including mountain biking, which was invented in Marin County. (Photo on Mt. Tam in 1989.) Currently pic74

Photo: Tom Levy, The Chronicle


----------



## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Still my favorite Brodie.


----------



## Buddysnack (Jan 30, 2013)

tductape said:


> Still my favorite Brodie.


Thanks tductape.


----------



## hegstad1 (Sep 16, 2010)

The Croll project. long story short; I had a raw frame that I brought to Erik Noren of Peacock Groove who used to work at Croll. He made a fork and LD stem for it and had it painted in Croll inspired tiger stripes (Erik couldn't resist and painted up a pair of rims too). I stopped by the shop today to drop off some parts and had to take an in progress pic. I'll post a more detailed description later.


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

hegstad1 said:


> The Croll project. long story short; I had a raw frame that I brought to Erik Noren of Peacock Groove who used to work at Croll. He made a fork and LD stem for it and had it painted in Croll inspired tiger stripes (Erik couldn't resist and painted up a pair of rims too). I stopped by the shop today to drop off some parts and had to take an in progress pic. I'll post a more detailed description later.


That's so obnoxious that I like it.

More detail pics of the stem if you have em!


----------



## hegstad1 (Sep 16, 2010)

Yeah, in person it is really crazy. It's got some sparkle/flake in the paint that make it look like some funky pimp-mobile. The rims almost push it over the top for me. We'll see how the final build looks. I'll get some better pics of the stem next time I'm in the shop.


----------



## Saddle Up (Jan 30, 2008)

newfangled said:


> ^ I've definitely got the shorter 90mm one. But it added 1-1/2" of height when my 29er probably needed half that.
> 
> Basically, it's pretty dramatic. But I'm sure I'll find it handy when the revamped Luxy bar comes out and I'm trying to fit it to an old 26er.


Do you still have that stem? Want to sell it? PM me if interested, I'm local.


----------



## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

I had crashed on this bike back in February. Messed up my back for a while.

Anyways, the back is healing and I feel well enough to try the drop bar conversion again. This time, I converted it to a full rigid and made it into a single speed.

IMG_0346 by tk_1971, on Flickr


----------



## lumpsum (May 2, 2005)

This Winters beater. 1988 Marin Pine Mountain. Bought for less than 15 $ . Set it up With Nokian Hakka 300 F/R but changed to ISP Pro 2.35 at the front because the Hakka was all over the Place on ice. Really a greatriding wintergravelgrinder.


----------



## Shane5001 (Dec 18, 2013)

My 1st Drop bar mtb build, having troubles with bar height / placement. Brand new un-cut fork, still doesn't feel quite right and looks ridiculous. Grips to seat also 2" further away than my usual. Fork is 406mm a-c, so increasing this is an option, although forks with a-c 410-425 not easy to find. Surly Troll fork would look great, but >450mm way over intended for this frame. Any suggestions?


----------



## peter.thedrake (Aug 6, 2009)

Pretty sure you should be able to find a kona project 2 fork in that length.


----------



## Shane5001 (Dec 18, 2013)

The more I think about it, if I raise the a-c of the fork, the bottom bracket will rise some with saddle height and defeat my purpose. I have 2 more frames with shorter top tubes, I am going to throw some parts over and see how it looks.


----------



## TrailNRG (Jul 21, 2010)

Salsa El Mariachi with On-One Midge's from earlier this fall.


----------



## burritoguru (Aug 22, 2008)

Velo Orange working on a dirt drop stem.

The Velo ORANGE Blog: Long Tall Stem Prototypes


----------



## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Very cool. I never understood why On One or Salsa didn't do something similar to match with their bars.


----------



## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

They're hard to make.


----------



## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ no doubt. And I guess salsa actually did make their high-rise stems for awhile, but I think they'd phased them out a few years before they introduced the woodchipper? More for On One then, it's always surprised me that they don't carry anyone else's 35+deg stems on their site (bontrager, ergotec, etc), instead forcing people to hunt around. It's a good move by VO.


----------



## mauricer (Apr 15, 2011)

burritoguru said:


> Not just any mountain bike, Dirt Drop Mountain Bike.
> 
> 
> View attachment 1026142
> ...


Anyone knows where i can get hold of this picture in high-res? Or as a poster?


----------



## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

The chronicle sells their photos.



> How do I purchase or request rights to reprint photos?
> 
> If you are requesting to purchase a photo for personal use or reprinting a photo in another publication, please contact our photo reprints specialist at [email protected].


FAQ | San Francisco Chronicle Archive | SFchronicle.com - San Francisco Chronicle


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

burritoguru said:


> Velo Orange working on a dirt drop stem.
> 
> The Velo ORANGE Blog: Long Tall Stem Prototypes


That is exactly what bikes like a Surly CC need. The short headtube makes it tough to get the bars up without looking ridiculous. Good move VO.


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

girlonbike said:


> They're hard to make.


They are especially for the small one man shops. VO is probably going to have jigs made up and produce them in quantity which will hold the price down. Let's see if they can make some thumb shifter mounts like the old WTB versions at a reasonable price.


----------



## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

VO shifter mounts would be so cool. That's another thing that I'm surprised no one sells.

I never posted this in this thread, but stretching out the clamp on a cheapo Sunrace shifter works pretty well, but it's a little closer to the bar than the standoff clamps would be.


__
https://flic.kr/p/Biq7Mk


----------



## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

It's been a little bit, but I found time to ride my 90's Rockhopper conversion just this last week. Took it fast and wreckless going down.

Untitled by tk_1971, on Flickr

With the small/stiff frame and rigid fork, I really took a beating on it. Lots of fun on an otherwise very dull trail.


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

burritoguru said:


> Velo Orange working on a dirt drop stem.
> 
> The Velo ORANGE Blog: Long Tall Stem Prototypes


I just emailed them. They are going to be importing them.


----------



## Shane5001 (Dec 18, 2013)

3 attempts and I think I finally got something. Hard to size right with long legs and short torso. I had to pony up on the $$ and get the Nitto mt-10 long quill stem. I used my smallest/shortest frame, old bridgestone mb-4.


----------



## YakimaDeathYaks (Aug 15, 2012)

I hope you have a nice dental plan.........


----------



## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

Shane5001 said:


> View attachment 1066199
> View attachment 1066200
> 
> 
> 3 attempts and I think I finally got something. Hard to size right with long legs and short torso. I had to pony up on the $$ and get the Nitto mt-10 long quill stem. I used my smallest/shortest frame, old bridgestone mb-4.


Whoa nelly. I also have longer legs and a shorter torso than a corresponding height-equivalent man that these bikes were designed for so I know a thing or two about top tube and stem lengths but you really should get a different bike that fits you better and if you really have that much trouble reaching down and getting a water bottle, maybe get a camelbak.


----------



## Shane5001 (Dec 18, 2013)

girlonbike said:


> Whoa nelly. I also have longer legs and a shorter torso than a corresponding height-equivalent man that these bikes were designed for so I know a thing or two about top tube and stem lengths but you really should get a different bike that fits you better and if you really have that much trouble reaching down and getting a water bottle, maybe get a camelbak.


The water bottles are there for a couple reasons, 1: they stay clean instead of getting a mouth full of dry dirt this summer, 2: leaving the frame open for a frame bag. My idea was to put the hand position while in the drops close to the same spot as if on a regular bar, with exception of being sideways. I started with a larger frame, was impossible to get reach short enough, tried a medium frame, still not enough. The Nitto stem maxed out on this frame puts the lower curve of the drops right about saddle height with reach being very comparable to my typical mtb's. Looks ridiculous, yes indeed, but actually rode pretty well, could probably drop the stem an inch or so. I think when I build my touring bike I'll go jone's H bars or equivalent instead.


----------



## oneschnark (Dec 16, 2013)

Hi, American M16



Philippe


----------



## Joe Steel (Dec 30, 2003)

Nicely done Philippe.


----------



## hegstad1 (Sep 16, 2010)

Pretty!


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

oneschnark said:


> Hi, American M16
> 
> Philippe


I like the silver brakes in back, black up front. I did the same with my drop bar Salsa.


----------



## oneschnark (Dec 16, 2013)

one 's more

Philippe


----------



## hegstad1 (Sep 16, 2010)

I got the Croll out for a shake-down ride. I will post more pictures when I get some of the details finished up. It has garbage shifters on it and cheap bar tape. I also want a different cable hanger up front. As it stands, it has XTR 900 brakes, hubs, and derailleurs, Ultergra tricolor brake levers, Cook Bros. Cranks, XT pedals, XTR 910 seat post (because it's silver) Turbo suede seat, new Nitto RM 014 bars. The fork was made by Eric Noren at Peacock Groove. He helped build the original frame back in 1993. Eric had the LD stem made by Joel at Clockwork. The rims are new DT Swiss that Eric had painted to match the frame.


----------



## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Those rims are amazing. Whole bike is amazing, but the rims are something else.


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

hegstad1 said:


> I got the Croll out for a shake-down ride. I will post more pictures when I get some of the details finished up. It has garbage shifters on it and cheap bar tape. I also want a different cable hanger up front. As it stands, it has XTR 900 brakes, hubs, and derailleurs, Ultergra tricolor brake levers, Cook Bros. Cranks, XT pedals, XTR 910 seat post (because it's silver) Turbo suede seat, new Nitto RM 014 bars. The fork was made by Eric Noren at Peacock Groove. He helped build the original frame back in 1993. Eric had the LD stem made by Joel at Clockwork. The rims are new DT Swiss that Eric had painted to match the frame.


So ugly it's cool!

Maybe it's the camera angle...but that saddle looks pointed down?


----------



## hegstad1 (Sep 16, 2010)

Rumpfy said:


> So ugly it's cool!
> 
> Maybe it's the camera angle...but that saddle looks pointed down?


The saddle is level with the earth! The frame has a sloping top tube which makes the seat look titled down, at least from that angle. I have the seat tipped back as far is it will go.


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

hegstad1 said:


> The saddle is level with the earth! The frame has a sloping top tube which makes the seat look titled down, at least from that angle. I have the seat tipped back as far is it will go.


Gotcha!

If you have the saddle tilted all the way back and it's still ever so slightly facing down (or you can't get it to point up at all), the cradle might be in backwards. I made that mistake with an XT post and I think the XTR is similar. 
If the saddle is level and it's just the pic, then you're golden.


----------



## hegstad1 (Sep 16, 2010)

Rumpfy said:


> Gotcha!
> 
> If you have the saddle tilted all the way back and it's still ever so slightly facing down (or you can't get it to point up at all), the cradle might be in backwards. I made that mistake with an XT post and I think the XTR is similar.
> If the saddle is level and it's just the pic, then you're golden.


Damn, you might be right. I've done that before too. I'll check but it's still pretty close.


----------



## Wissahickon (Feb 9, 2015)

*Bridgestone MB-3*

Here is my Bridgestone. I just recently converted it to dirt drops--Specialized WTB RM-2. It's a ton of fun! Here it is on my first ride:





















I know, I know, amateur with the non drive side photo...


----------



## oneschnark (Dec 16, 2013)

Hi, a new project:

and

Philippe


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Wissahickon said:


> Here is my Bridgestone. I just recently converted it to dirt drops--Specialized WTB RM-2. It's a ton of fun! Here it is on my first ride:


Sano build there! RM-2's are great. How'd you feel about it after the first ride? I was sold after mine.



oneschnark said:


> Hi, a new project:
> 
> Philippe


Ibis and an LD...good things coming there!


----------



## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Wissahickon said:


> Here is my Bridgestone. I just recently converted it to dirt drops--Specialized WTB RM-2.


That reminds me that I've never posted my MB-3 in this thread. Sadly nothing is period-correct except for the headset, but it's all super comfy anyway.



__
https://flic.kr/p/FabZa7


----------



## Wissahickon (Feb 9, 2015)

Rumpfy said:


> Sano build there! RM-2's are great. How'd you feel about it after the first ride? I was sold after mine.
> 
> Thankss Rumpfy! I must admit, I had a blast riding the RM-2s. For a while I was looking at the other drop bar choices like the Nitto rm-3, salsa's woodchipper, onone midge, etc. but ultimately decided on waiting for the RM-2 to present themselves. Once I got a chance, I jumped on the opportunity to acquire them and I'm glad I did.


----------



## Wissahickon (Feb 9, 2015)

newfangled said:


> That reminds me that I've never posted my MB-3 in this thread. Sadly nothing is period-correct except for the headset, but it's all super comfy anyway.


Nice Bridgestone! What year is that? What kind of drops did you use?


----------



## racerx09 (Dec 2, 2004)

*A couple from RacerX09 line up*

I have since sold the Litespeed, but I have a few.

Right now I am riding an older Bianchi, really neat lugged triple butted frame. I have put on some newer, lighter wheels.


----------



## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Wissahickon said:


> Nice Bridgestone! What year is that? What kind of drops did you use?


'85 based on the catalogs on Sheldon Brown's site, and a midge. They go together very nicely.


----------



## oneschnark (Dec 16, 2013)

Hi,

Philippe


----------



## bucksaw87 (Jun 18, 2007)

For the past few years, I've had a bit of a wacky idea rolling around my head. After being exposed to the idea of a 'ratrod' bike and falling in love with the 50's aesthetic, I got thinking about parlaying that whole concept onto a MTB. My biggest concern is not whether I could, but whether I should. So, can anyone comment on the riding geometry of a 'swoopy' beach cruiser or towny with drop bars and 26" MTB tires?


----------



## Shane5001 (Dec 18, 2013)

bucksaw87 said:


> For the past few years, I've had a bit of a wacky idea rolling around my head. After being exposed to the idea of a 'ratrod' bike and falling in love with the 50's aesthetic, I got thinking about parlaying that whole concept onto a MTB. My biggest concern is not whether I could, but whether I should. So, can anyone comment on the riding geometry of a 'swoopy' beach cruiser or towny with drop bars and 26" MTB tires?


I have also fell in love with 50's style and have built a couple "klunkers." Both from Schwinn cantilever frames, and also have a couple other tank bikes in the works. Problems you might have: the rear ends on these things are super long, not playful, do not handle well imo. The top tubes on these things tend to be long as they are designed for swoop back cruiser handle bars, will be a problem if you are a shorter rider. I use american to euro bottom bracket converter in mine to run standard mtn bike cranks. I have also spread the rear dropouts apart to 135mm and run cheap sunrace derailleur hanger to run gears with no problems. 1 other thing to note, the seat tubes are really skinny, you'll have to shim the front derailleur and cable stop (if needed) witch is actually trickier than it sounds (they like to move). I use plumbers strap, worked for the derailleur, couldn't get the cable stop to quit moving. A derailleur that runs full length cable housing would fix this.


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

A fun little Blurb from Soma.
Soma Feed: Dirt Drops (What, Why & How)


----------



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Bottom line: Papa Charlie is a badass.


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Agreed.


DoubleCentury said:


> Bottom line: Papa Charlie is a badass.


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

jeff said:


> A fun little Blurb from Soma.
> Soma Feed: Dirt Drops (What, Why & How)


soooo trendy i felt like i should buy a new wardrobe to go w/ so much attitude. 
Benedict who? Why is he next to Cunningham who invented so many things? Because of the tats and beard?


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

I think it's a bro thing. The whole skidding thing annoys me. Love the drop bar love though.


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

I'm all about the humor. You're mileage may vary.


----------



## oneschnark (Dec 16, 2013)

Hi, IBIS 1989

Philippe


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

oneschnark said:


> Hi, IBIS 1989
> 
> Philippe


WANT. 
Sooo cool.
Magical.
Beautifill.
Top five favourite bikes.


----------



## fatchanceti (Jan 12, 2005)

Before it's gone:










Plan to hit the new Waterloo Rec Area trails with it this weekend though. Rumor has it they are skinny tire friendly.


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

fatchanceti said:


> Before it's gone:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Really nice bike.


----------



## fatchanceti (Jan 12, 2005)

Thanks. It's headed out to the new owner this week. It will be well travelled.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

oneschnark said:


> Hi, IBIS 1989
> Philippe


Nice one there!


----------



## LeeDumler (May 23, 2014)

Here's my first attempt at a drop bar mountain bike. I just finished it last night, so i only have a day's commute to base my first impression on. It seems very well mannered, but we'll see how it behaves when pushed. Hopefully it'll see some dirt tomorrow night.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Hope the ride report is better than Speckles. Visually came out terrific!


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

oneschnark said:


> Hi, IBIS 1989
> 
> Philippe


That is really beautiful. What levers are those?



LeeDumler said:


> Here's my first attempt at a drop bar mountain bike. I just finished it last night, so i only have a day's commute to base my first impression on. It seems very well mannered, but we'll see how it behaves when pushed. Hopefully it'll see some dirt tomorrow night.


Rumpfy's new best friend! Great looking frameset.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

girlonbike said:


> Rumpfy's new best friend! Great looking frameset.


The guy built a drop bar Otis and we're workin' on putting together a killer vintage ride for everyone...he's ok by me!


----------



## oneschnark (Dec 16, 2013)

Salut, 
Modolo
Philippe


----------



## LeeDumler (May 23, 2014)

Rumpfy said:


> The guy built a drop bar Otis and we're workin' on putting together a killer vintage ride for everyone...he's ok by me!


So is it time to let the cat out of the bag then? Should our gathering of the VRC nerds get it's own thread now?


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

LeeDumler said:


> Here's my first attempt at a drop bar mountain bike. I just finished it last night, so i only have a day's commute to base my first impression on. It seems very well mannered, but we'll see how it behaves when pushed. Hopefully it'll see some dirt tomorrow night.


That looks well sorted out and i like how you placed the brake levers low on the hbar. I see most of the time dirt drops w/ brake levers like it was a road bike and it bugs me.
back to your bike.. you can even raise that stem so you can rock the technical and steep w/out fear.


----------



## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

Eric, I know I haven't met any of you yet, but this will be a good chance. BTW, though you've probably heard, this Saturday there's a bike swap in Petaluma (Bruce Gordon bikes). I talked to Paul Sadoff and he's bringing an old rigid fork for my Lobster, not sure but there might be other like minded folk. Oh and damn that OG is an elegant one. Cheers and I'll keep my eye out for the ride, north Bay Area I suppose, didn't you do one at China Camp in 2010 (yes I trolled your photos, they're just too nice and envy inducing!). Cheers, Ben


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

LeeDumler said:


> So is it time to let the cat out of the bag then? Should our gathering of the VRC nerds get it's own thread now?


Definitely. You want to start it or shall I?



colker1 said:


> That looks well sorted out and i like how you placed the brake levers low on the hbar. I see most of the time dirt drops w/ brake levers like it was a road bike and it bugs me.
> back to your bike.. you can even raise that stem so you can rock the technical and steep w/out fear.


Brake levers too high is another common setup mistake...but not so here. Looks like his saddle to top of bar ratio is just about right too...might not need to raise that stem very much (if at all).


----------



## jet123 (May 25, 2015)

My commuter / light touring / all around fun bike...


----------



## LeeDumler (May 23, 2014)

Rumpfy said:


> Definitely. You want to start it or shall I?


I think I'll let you take that on. Seems like you might have a bit more clout around these parts than I do.

Back on topic, I took the OG out for its first thrashing tonight. We did our typical Wednesday night loop, which I like to call the "Everything Bagel" because you get it all in a 10 mile spin. There's a rocky fire road grind which leads to a flowy single track up to the peak. Next comes the biker built DH run called "Hitler", followed by the "no pedal zone", a tight, twisty single track with no real elevation drop that can be navigated without pedaling. Last is the tech section, which is loaded with hairpins, log hops, makeshift bridges and steep, loamy sweepers.

Ride report is overall very positive. The frame lacks the responsive feel of some of my faster bikes, but it makes up for it in ride quality ten fold. You really have to manhandle it when you get it up to speed. It climbs like a monster though. I was able to clear the steepest stuff I could point it down, even with the stem as low as it is.


Bottom of Hitler. Made it down just fine...


Aside from snapping my bottle cage.


The weekly ride's weekly bike pile.


And the crew...


Including a friend who knows a thing or two about ripping it up on a drop bar rig.



I think the takeaway here that is sticking with me the most is that, as much as I enjoy this bike, I want to build something better. I picked the OG for my build because I thought a more "traditional" Marin County bike would compliment the drops best. After seeing how they stack up to other handlebar setups, I think that they would be just as well suited to a slightly more aggressive and contemporary bike. Something with a shorter rear end, a slacker front end and a slightly taller BB and axle to crown height. I'm thinking mid 90's Ala Carte or something of the sort.


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

nice ibis... curious about the ride of those szasbos.


----------



## LeeDumler (May 23, 2014)

colker1 said:


> nice ibis... curious about the ride of those szasbos.


That's my friend Steve's bike. He's owned three of them over the years, plus a Bow Ti. I haven't ridden it yet, but he loves it. He says it's more plush than you'd expect a URT bike to be, and upgrading to a shock with a platform damper made it almost as good as his modern full suspension Giant Anthem. He sold the Giant, and now has an Ibis Mojo 3 on order.


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

LeeDumler said:


> I think I'll let you take that on. Seems like you might have a bit more clout around these parts than I do.
> 
> Back on topic, I took the OG out for its first thrashing tonight. We did our typical Wednesday night loop, which I like to call the "Everything Bagel" because you get it all in a 10 mile spin. There's a rocky fire road grind which leads to a flowy single track up to the peak. Next comes the biker built DH run called "Hitler", followed by the "no pedal zone", a tight, twisty single track with no real elevation drop that can be navigated without pedaling. Last is the tech section, which is loaded with hairpins, log hops, makeshift bridges and steep, loamy sweepers.
> 
> ...


Sounds like a fun loop. No wide bars and modern tires to take the edge off either!

Solid assessment. Nothing racy about my drop bar OG either. I can bring my Ala Carte up for the vintage ride if you want to try it (or take it home with you to knock around on to see if does what you want).


----------



## darkgizzard (Aug 12, 2016)

93 (?) Bianchi Project 5 fell into my lap recently. Seemed lightly used so all I did was clean it up and get the Origin 8 Gary bars from the lbs. Are most dirt drops essentially upside down Schwinn cruiser bars or just these? Have some fatter tires on the way to replace the original 700cx45s, could use some more cush.









Haven't been able to find much info about these, if anyone could help I'd appreciate it! Also would love recommendations for better stem and straight blade forks


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## rockcrusher (Aug 28, 2003)

darkgizzard said:


> 93 (?) Bianchi Project 5 fell into my lap recently. Seemed lightly used so all I did was clean it up and get the Origin 8 Gary bars from the lbs. Are most dirt drops essentially upside down Schwinn cruiser bars or just these? Have some fatter tires on the way to replace the original 700cx45s, could use some more cush.
> 
> View attachment 1087554
> 
> ...


Looks like you have a threaded steerer fork, which is different from the current system. They do make an adpapter that allows you to use a threadless stem with your threaded headset/fork. Replacing the fork with a new one will require a new headset, stem and fork. Frankly it's a pretty cool bike and I would just ride it as is, replace parts as they wear out and enjoy it!


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## peter.thedrake (Aug 6, 2009)

The Bianchi Project bikes are VERY cool and are in the line that led to the 29er bikes today. I agree with rockcrusher and I would run the original fork. Nothing wrong with the set up you have now. I'm not sure about the Project 5, but I've seen the Project 7 bikes with a Ritchey Logic unicrown fork.

About half way down there's a discussion of the Bianchi Project bikes at this link GT Tachyon, Bianchi Project 7, and the Tire Standard That Wasn?t - Bike Hugger

And some discussion here as to why the Bianchi Project bikes are NOT 29ers. Hint: max tire width clearance. Guitar Ted Productions: The Beginnings Of The Modern 29"er: A History

Little bit of the history of development from Dirt Rag here The Big Wheel Mountain Bike Story | Dirt Rag

And some interesting bits from MOMBAT MOMBAT: History of the 29" wheel bicycle by Adam Hunt


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## darkgizzard (Aug 12, 2016)

The original fork is no problem and in no way inhibits my enjoyment of the bike, I just think it would look killer with a straight blade fork! I know finding one pre-existing that is 1" threaded w/ canti bosses and clearance for 700c x 2" tires is probably a dream and I doubt I'll ever get a custom fork made for it, but if anyone has any ideas of something fitting the bill (steel or carbon or other) I'd love to know what to look for.

As for the 29r question, I did manage to squeeze in a pair of Clement 29x2.1 tires. A cat's whisker of clearance but I'll take it! I have heard bikes like this described as "28r", I'll leave the semantics to others.

Thanks for those links, reading that Dirt Rag history is what got me into looking for a vintage big wheel MTB in the first place, it must have been synchronicity because I feel like this bike found me rather than the other way around.

What would be great to see is original Bianchi catalogs with this model, I was surprised that they weren't around the web already.


----------



## peter.thedrake (Aug 6, 2009)

There's a few that I found online and have linked here https://repartodirt.wordpress.com/bianchi-mountain-bike-catalogs/ but nothing really in the VRC category. I could spend a mint on catalogs on ebay, but I'm still hoping there's someone out there that has scans I can host.


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## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

*Drop Bar advice, yay, nay on my plan?*

Hope you all had a good weekend of riding, good ride with the BTCEB folks in JMP, now on topic

I scored a real deal on a pair of WTB RM-2s recently (think a good lunch) and also might have a stem that would work, but probably not. I'm thinking of giving drop bars a shot and re-purpose/reconfigure my 99" Ritchey NiTi. A couple questions...

a) Think the NiTi has geometry that would lend itself to drop bars?

b) I would rather not use barcons, are there any other options out there besides the elusive/pricey WTBs? Is there anyway you can make thumb shifters work? I saw these Paul's on a bike today, no-go right?

c) My fork is currently a Surly big dummy (sus corrected threadless), are there threadless drop bar stems that are decent? If not I might be able to have Paul Sadoff make a custom stem, I'm guessing if I did that I would need to barrow someone's stem fitter, as I'd be going all-in as it were.

d) I currently have M900 V-brakes on there, what would be a compatible brake lever?

Before I dive in, maybe someone could let me tool around a bit on a drop bar bike at the VRC ride later this month?

Here are the Paul shifters I recently saw, any chance they could be altered to work, I'm moderately handy? I know I'm gonna get the duh on this one.








Any sage advice would be helpful, and yes of course you could say "do your own homework and go down the google hole", I'll do that as well.

Dig it,


----------



## LeeDumler (May 23, 2014)

A) I don't have enough experience on dirt drops yet to make an educated answer, but my gut feeling is that a NiTi's have too long of a front end (mid-late 90's geometry) to make dirt drops work effectively.

B) Kelly made some. Text me and I'll tell you where I saw a pair for $40. 

C) I saw somewhere (probably earlier in this thread) that Velo Orange is coming out with a copy of the LD stem. If you're going to have a stem made, I have a Salsa Size-o-Matic fit stem you are welcome to borrow. That's how I figured out my setup. 

D) Tektro makes long pull drop bar brake levers. Others probably do as well. That's assuming you meant M95* v-brakes. M900 was cantilever. 

E) Feel free to borrow my drop bar OG at the get together. Bring SPD compatible shoes if you want the full experience.


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

You want a tall head tube for drop bars. Basically your hands will be at the same distance from the saddle as in a flat bar when your hands are in the drops. Ritcheys have short head tubes.
I have seen Paul's cx adapter for top of bars but bar cons work well. 
Tektro and cane creek have good levers for V brakes.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

The inclination with trying drop bars is to use what you have handy to see if you like it before really committing. It's generally a good plan since people either seem to love or hate riding off road drops. 
The rub is that if you don't really get the set up right, it makes a big difference in your off road drop riding experience. 
I was fortunate in that I was able to borrow a buddies drop bar (P-23) to try out the platform first. While was bike was a little small for me, I loved it and set out to build my own drop bar project bike. My first several were failures and it took me time to get the right frame/stem set up. Once that happened, I've never felt so comfortable on a bike.

I think your NiTi/Paul/V-Brake proposal will create enough hurdles that negate any time/money you'd save using that bike as a test sled for off road drops.

Definitely try Lee's Otis at the vintage ride. I'm considering bringing my red/white 85 drop bar Otis as well. That'll give you an early and late vintage mtb drop set up to pedal around on. If you think you might like it, we can dork out on options.


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

colker1 said:


> You want a tall head tube for drop bars. Basically your hands will be at the same distance from the saddle as in a flat bar when your hands are in the drops. Ritcheys have short head tubes.
> I have seen Paul's cx adapter for top of bars but bar cons work well.
> Tektro and cane creek have good levers for V brakes.


^^ This.


----------



## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

Lee and Colker,

Thanks for the insight, looks like the consensus might be that "this is not the bike I am looking for", I do still ride it, but it is the less ridden on my modest staple at the moment. I'll do a little more research, see if anyone else replies. I suppose at the least I saved myself some money, time and effort, oh and then I might have a pair of WTB RM-2's for the taking or trade. I heard about the Kelly's, if I do end up building it up DB anyways I'll contact you on that deal. 

Lee, I will take you up on the offer to test ride the OG. I'm thinking of doing both rides on the 28th too, depending on the "course", the lobster and the P-22.

Many thanks,


----------



## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

So, Eric, would you say the NiTi is a no-go for drop bar, just a bad fit, or wouldn't really be worth it as it wouldn't perform well as a drop bar? I'm in no rush, I did see a drop bar Ritchey timber comp in Pacifica for sale (don't flag me GOB), though that's a decade or more earlier bike.


----------



## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

Ahh, that sounds like what I needed to hear, there's no substitute for behind the bar time. I'll shelve the idea for the moment till I get more perspective, I know it's not truly VRC, but I actually like the ride of the NiTi, though it doesn't get a lot of love, even like. Look forward to the big ride. Thanks all


----------



## caemis (Dec 12, 2015)

Hi guys, my question is somewhat more brake related. Currently I am using XT 732 cantis with Shimano 105 aero levers - I am especially not convinced of the levers. The brakes working fine with Paul levers... Do you have any recommendations on aero levers? Cheers, Marco


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Mr. Claus said:


> So, Eric, would you say the NiTi is a no-go for drop bar, just a bad fit, or wouldn't really be worth it as it wouldn't perform well as a drop bar? I'm in no rush, I did see a drop bar Ritchey timber comp in Pacifica for sale (don't flag me GOB), though that's a decade or more earlier bike.


As Colker said, it really helps to have a taller headtube. If not, you'll need a really tall stem to get yourself in the correct position on the bike. Ritcheys typically have a pretty short headtube. I've found full rigid is the way to go with drop bar bikes as well. It can certainly be done with suspension, but I don't like the way it feels as much.

So to me you've got a much newer frame that is:
- suspension corrected
- has a short head tube
- will require a odd spec custom stem

There's so much out there. So many really neat frames you can try. You don't seem at all afraid to take on a project or track down parts, so I think you have the luxury of being smart about it. I'm confident you'll have a much better sense of direction in a few weeks after trying out some drop bar bikes at the vintage ride.


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

caemis said:


> Hi guys, my question is somewhat more brake related. Currently I am using XT 732 cantis with Shimano 105 aero levers - I am especially not convinced of the levers. The brakes working fine with Paul levers... Do you have any recommendations on aero levers? Cheers, Marco


I run M732 XT cantilevers with Dia-Compe Gran Compe Aero levers with no issues. 
So you went from a flat bar set up to drop bar set up? The 105's should work ok.


----------



## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

BTW, love that Salsa bike! I totally agree, I look forward to checking out the various drop bar combos out on the VRC ride and maybe being lucky enough to take em on a little spin. I was just looking to monkey with the NiTi, but also like as is. At least I got a good lucky start with the great deal on the RM-2s, who knows what I might scare up at the impromptu parts swap later this month. 

I also saw that red Phoenix Lee has in his garage partially built, who knows?? hint? I believe a 18', maybe a tad big (at least Phoenix wise) for me at shy of 6'. Sorry to have "hijacked" the drop bar thread and thanks for advising me (invoice to follow?), back to your normally scheduled programming! Ben,


----------



## caemis (Dec 12, 2015)

Rumpfy said:


> I run M732 XT cantilevers with Dia-Compe Gran Compe Aero levers with no issues.
> So you went from a flat bar set up to drop bar set up? The 105's should work ok.


No, I am still switching around setups. But I will have a drop bar stem build for me - and afterwards my Lobster will stay as dirtdrop machine:



​
As to the levers, I will try out my 105 again but since they belong to the project "test the dropbar" anyway and aren't in a good shape I am open for something new 

Thanks!


----------



## racerx09 (Dec 2, 2004)

*Love old Litespeeds*

This was my favorite project. Someone offered me some $$ for it and sadly I sold it....


----------



## Bokchoicowboy (Aug 7, 2007)

*New Velo Orange stem recreates classic dirt drop stem*

Have you guys seen this? I noticed this over on the Velo Orange blog...The Cigne stem...looks like it has some potential for those who want that VRC dirt drop stem look when you cant find the original part...per the blog they intend to have an adapter to make it work with threaded forks/headsets in 1" size. In production now and will be offered in 70mm and 90mm extension and black, nickle and raw finishes.

















The Velo ORANGE Blog: Projects and Ideas

The Velo ORANGE Blog: More Stem Stuff


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

I'm curious what the rise will be. In that proto pic it looks to be about 8"?


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Bokchoicowboy said:


> Have you guys seen this? I noticed this over on the Velo Orange blog...The Cigne stem...looks like it has some potential for those who want that VRC dirt drop stem look when you cant find the original part...per the blog they intend to have an adapter to make it work with threaded forks/headsets in 1" size. In production now and will be offered in 70mm and 90mm extension and black, nickle and raw finishes.
> 
> The Velo ORANGE Blog: Projects and Ideas
> 
> The Velo ORANGE Blog: More Stem Stuff


Yep! There are a few options out there now, which is great to have.


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

I don't post pics of this guy often, but I put a temp Ibis LD in there. I need a bit more height and reach, but it's close.


----------



## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Rumpfy said:


> Yep! There are a few options out there now, which is great to have.


The second stem is a humpert high charisma. It's a German company but you can usually get one from a UK seller on eBay. They only come in black. I called VO and they confirmed that's what they were.


----------



## onebignut (Aug 1, 2013)

Rumpfy said:


> I don't post pics of this guy often, but I put a temp Ibis LD in there. I need a bit more height and reach, but it's close.
> 
> View attachment 1092739


To me that is perfection in a mountain bike.


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

onebignut said:


> To me that is perfection in a mountain bike.


Tell me something i don't know.


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

onebignut said:


> To me that is perfection in a mountain bike.


Won't argue with that. For a bike made in 84 (though Charlie said possibly late 83), it rides like a bike 10 years newer.
I can't think of anything available at the time this bike was made that could ever come close to the way this rides.


----------



## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

I can't seem to find the details of geometry for my 1990 Team Marin MTB. 

I'd like to see how different the geometry of this bike is versus say a Rawland or other purpose built 26" drop bar tourers. 

I think I want to try running some spare drop bars I've got on it. I've got a 1" threaded to 1-1/8" stem adapter that I can raise pretty high, and a shorty stem to decrease the reach.

That being said, it does certainly feel far different than other drop bar bikes (650bm, 700C, or 29x1.9) I've ridden.


----------



## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

Quick question here to see if I am doomed or should proceed. OK, I picked up some RM-2s on the cheap, the original owner cut about 3/4" - 1" off each of the bar ends. Does this make them unusable? Is there a safe, relatively simple and not hideous way to add back the length? I'll be using bar-cons...any help would be well helpful. cheers


----------



## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

Mr. Claus said:


> Quick question here to see if I am doomed or should proceed. OK, I picked up some RM-2s on the cheap, the original owner cut about 3/4" - 1" off each of the bar ends. Does this make them unusable? Is there a safe, relatively simple and not hideous way to add back the length? I'll be using bar-cons...any help would be well helpful. cheers


Control tech Terminators. They're great. Or, if you use bar end shifters, maybe that would be enough. I suspect that's why they were cut in the first place?

Edit: to clarify, you can't use the Terminators AND bar end shifters, but the shifters effectively add an inch or so of grippable real estate.


----------



## racerx09 (Dec 2, 2004)

darkgizzard said:


> 93 (?) Bianchi Project 5 fell into my lap recently. Seemed lightly used so all I did was clean it up and get the Origin 8 Gary bars from the lbs. Are most dirt drops essentially upside down Schwinn cruiser bars or just these? Have some fatter tires on the way to replace the original 700cx45s, could use some more cush.


Do you have lugs as well. I really like this bike I converted this past spring.


----------



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Mr. Claus said:


> I'll be using bar-cons...any help would be well helpful. cheers


People cut drops to fit bar cons on the ends and not have too much bar sticking back. If you also run bar cons you are good to go.


----------



## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

DoubleCentury said:


> People cut drops to fit bar cons on the ends and not have too much bar sticking back. If you also run bar cons you are good to go.


Thanks to both of you for the reply, that makes sense and good to hear. I've heard people say that the uncut ones with bar cons would sometimes hit their leg when turning..thanks again cheers, project moves forward


----------



## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

DoubleCentury said:


> People cut drops to fit bar cons on the ends and not have too much bar sticking back. If you also run bar cons you are good to go
> 
> Thanks Tashhi, I know there are posts here, but to cut to the chaffe, do you know what bar cons would work best with an XT 732 der, 7 speed, and a 26mm dia bars? Also I'm thinkin dia comp levers for the M900 cantis. I'm hoping to get Grumpyone's salsa stem, perfect for this build. A couple of pieces have to come together, but I'm getting there, cheers


----------



## caemis (Dec 12, 2015)

Mr. Claus said:


> DoubleCentury said:
> 
> 
> > People cut drops to fit bar cons on the ends and not have too much bar sticking back. If you also run bar cons you are good to go
> ...


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Mr. Claus said:


> DoubleCentury said:
> 
> 
> > People cut drops to fit bar cons on the ends and not have too much bar sticking back. If you also run bar cons you are good to go
> ...


----------



## KDXdog (Mar 15, 2007)

My entry: Nitto dirt drop stem, Salsa bars, tecktro levers with Cannondale cross levers, 9 speed shimano bar end shifters.

My Bonty has been through many transitions, but this is a favorite. I'd like to have a Bonty fork, but this Klein-Spinner does the trick.


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## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

Nice, but you must be awfully forward and deep with the drops so low, but if it works, it works for you. I know there will be some nay sayers, but I have a Bonty dirt drop project as my last project (RM2, salsa PM10 from someone here) and hopefully still a switchblade from near me, I think these Bonty DDs could catch on. I hope all your legs ache like mine tonight. Cheers, sorry GOB for my violations .


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## goto11 (Jun 12, 2009)

*Another drop-bar Bonty*

This was a brief incarnation of my Race Lite.







I wasn't thrilled with the 700c wheels. It's a flat-bar 26er again now, and my drop bar MTB is a Moots YBB.


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## oneschnark (Dec 16, 2013)

Hi,

Philippe


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Hey guys: lower those brake levers and i promise you paradise.


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## KDXdog (Mar 15, 2007)

mr C: The long quill will allow me to raise the bars a lot higher, it all works for me here. This shot may show position better. 
Colky: brakes match my cross bike position. I know it look funky, but again, feels right.


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## KDXdog (Mar 15, 2007)

mr C: The long quill will allow me to raise the bars a lot higher, it all works for me here. This shot may show position better. 
Colky: brakes match my cross bike position. I know it look funky, but again, feels right.
View attachment 1099080


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

It's amountain bike, to ride rougher trails than cx. On the CX bike you ride holding the hoods. On the mtn bike, once you lower the levers, you wil ride in the drops which gives you the necessary control on technical, risky terrain. You will feel better once you raise the hbars and lower the brake levers: you will ride "inside" the front of the bike and not on top of it. If you ride your cx downhill at speed on a technical trail while holding the brake hoods, you lose control.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

colker1 said:


> It's amountain bike, to ride rougher trails than cx. On the CX bike you ride holding the hoods. On the mtn bike, once you lower the levers, you wil ride in the drops which gives you the necessary control on technical, risky terrain. You will feel better once you raise the hbars and lower the brake levers: you will ride "inside" the front of the bike and not on top of it. If you ride your cx downhill at speed on a technical trail while holding the brake hoods, you lose control.


Can you post a picture of the proper set up?


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## KDXdog (Mar 15, 2007)

The proper set up is what works for the person actually riding their bike


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## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

KDXdog said:


> The proper set up is what works for the person actually riding their bike


You haven't read all 12 pages of this thread have you 

But in all seriousness I agree. The "proper" dirt drop set-up doesn't work for me at all...too upright...makes the a bike feel like a low end hybrid.
I prefer a more Tomac like set-up: long and low with drops near the fork crown.



colker1 said:


> If you ride your cx downhill at speed on a technical trail while holding the brake hoods, you lose control


I do ride downhill at speed on my 'cross bike on the hoods. I have the most control from that position.


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

CS2 said:


> Can you post a picture of the proper set up?


:thumbsup:


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

KDXdog said:


> The proper set up is what works for the person actually riding their bike


Sure.. you try options on mountain bike trails and chose what's best.


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## KDXdog (Mar 15, 2007)

Colky, I appreciate the tips, but I've been riding the bike like this for a at least a year now. I actually moved the brake levers up after a while, as it felt best there. If I'm riding super technical trails, I take my IF. Cheers!


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

As stated countless times in this thread, the "proper" set up gets your hands in the hooks where they would be on a flat bar set up. The flared bars where designed to be ridden in the drops most of the time. Because of the flair riding on the hoods is less than ideal. The best frames for this tend to have taller head tubes and often shorter top tubes. High rise/short reach stems plus shifter perches that allow access from the hooks are the finishing touches. The stems are easier to find than the perches.


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## KDXdog (Mar 15, 2007)

I also moved the brakes up on my RB-2 road bike. Blasphemy, I know...after riding my cross bike a lot in the past 2 years, I find the "cross" high brakes feel good on my wrist. So that's why they are where they are on my Bonti. I have "cross" brakes on all my "drop bar" bikes, because I ride on the flats a lot, and after decades of dirt bikes and mountain bikes, I'm programmed to grab for them. Bar end shifters on all 3 also. See how I'm wired? Consistency. 

I also have 175 cranks on ALL my bikes, road, mountain and cross. Because it WORKS for me and again, consistency. 

Yes, I've read this (and others) post from cover to cover. Odd that many may think I have not tried "it". I know what the "proper" set up is, I simply choose to do what's best for me.


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## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

*Bonty dirt drop...continued*

For whatever reason there's been a bunch of Bontrgaer dirt drops appearing on this thread. So, I'm usually more iconoclastic, but I'll follow suite though I've been planning to do this for some time. In either case, this is just the start and I know the bars are probably 1/4" to 1/2" too high, but I'm picking up a Bonty chrome comp fork (much gratitude to a Mr. Lee D for those!) and hoping it might drop the front end a tad, you think? Next in line are dia compe aero levers, going with barcons until hell freezes over and I can get WTB conversions....I think she will do nicely from a preliminary sit over.....BTW it's a pretty nice (I know common) 91', large, with semi-horizontal d-outs, eggplant Bontrager, but my bike leanings are Santa Cruz by origin...we shall see. Ride report coming in the next 1-2 weeks. Side note...rain rain rain !!!!yay









and with the flat bars as a general comparison...









Cheers and ride on


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## LeeDumler (May 23, 2014)

That's a large? It looks so tiny with that stem on it.


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## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

I know, it's a bit of a Goonie, but it feels good when I'm on it, though only a proper ride will tell. The frame is definitely a large. I think things will get visually balanced out as I progress and fine tune. See you Saturday


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

Yours may be the first I've seen with a suspension fork.


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## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

Ha ha, it'll be replaced with a nice chrome Bontrager fork shortly, but I'm wondering what peeps think of the initial set up. Dig it and no one likes rain? Cheers to rain


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

Hmmmm. Is there a next bigger size?


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Mr. Claus said:


> Ha ha, it'll be replaced with a nice chrome Bontrager fork shortly, but I'm wondering what peeps think of the initial set up. Dig it and no one likes rain? Cheers to rain


I like it. The amount of seatpost says the frame is ok. Bar height is fine and dandy. Looking at the short stem w/ flat bar i wonder if the top tube/ saddle to drops is too long. You will have to ride and see.
The bontrager fork will steepen everything and reduce front end. NOt my cup of tea but some people like it.


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## KDXdog (Mar 15, 2007)

The original drop bar conversion for my Bonty a few years back: Cobbled together from stuff i had -700c wheels, BMX adaptor for rear canto's to move them "up", Kelly road stem-almost no rise, so a mile of spacers to get height. Surley crosscheck fork, 35 wide tires-plenty of room for larger. Did this conversion just for the heck of it, raced a couple of cross races on it, did a lot of trail riding with it. Only time it felt sketchy was fast corners on the road, tall BB height. Eventually returned to 26 wheels, as KB intended it to be.


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## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

colker1 said:


> I like it. The amount of seatpost says the frame is ok. Bar height is fine and dandy. Looking at the short stem w/ flat bar i wonder if the top tube/ saddle to drops is too long. You will have to ride and see.
> The bontrager fork will steepen everything and reduce front end. NOt my cup of tea but some people like it.


Thanks for the input Flávio, I think she'll work out, actually in the drops I was concerned I might be too upright, but yes only miles will tell, very excited to get the Bonty fork on there, aesthetically and functionally. Headed out to get me and the Lobster nice and muddy. BTW someone needs to post up a non-Bonty drop, the threads getting too SC. Cheers


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## Wissahickon (Feb 9, 2015)

Mr. Claus said:


> For whatever reason there's been a bunch of Bontrgaer dirt drops appearing on this thread. So, I'm usually more iconoclastic, but I'll follow suite though I've been planning to do this for some time. In either case, this is just the start and I know the bars are probably 1/4" to 1/2" too high, but I'm picking up a Bonty chrome comp fork (much gratitude to a Mr. Lee D for those!) and hoping it might drop the front end a tad, you think? Next in line are dia compe aero levers, going with barcons until hell freezes over and I can get WTB conversions....I think she will do nicely from a preliminary sit over.....BTW it's a pretty nice (I know common) 91', large, with semi-horizontal d-outs, eggplant Bontrager, but my bike leanings are Santa Cruz by origin...we shall see. Ride report coming in the next 1-2 weeks. Side note...rain rain rain !!!!yay
> 
> View attachment 1099881
> 
> ...


Definitely cool! Would love to find one of those Salsa stems one day. I too am throwing together a bontrager build with WTB drop bars. Not quite as Vintage as yours but I'm still excited to ride it. Almost finished.


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## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

Nice lookin rig Wissa, I do wish my WTBs weren't cut quite as much as they are, but price was very right. You're father along than I, nice clean stealthy looking bike you have, hope you enjoy the ride. The Bonty drop trend continues. Cheers


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)




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## caemis (Dec 12, 2015)




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## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

Yummy, all you need is some butter and lemon! About to head out for an afternoon ride on that ones cousin. Dig it


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Sexy.


caemis said:


>


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## Soundtallica (Jan 2, 2011)

*Schwinn Moab 2*

I got bored of my old 1993 Rockhopper drop bar conversion, so I decided to build this guy. Specifically, my Rockhopper was only able to tackle terrain similar to my normal CX bike, so I wanted to make my conversion a bit more capable to create some separation between the two in terms of usage scenario. That's the purpose the disc brakes and suspension fork serve.

With cobbled together heavy parts, this thing weighs 27.2lbs as shown. I need to shed some weight, probably in the pedals, tires, and crankset. If I want to make it even lighter, I also have an old carbon rigid MTB fork laying around. I also intend to put on a 48t outer chainring to make it a bit faster on smoother surfaces.

This thing will be used for touring, adventure rides, and commuting. Judging from my first ride on it, it'll be a perfect companion for all three!


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## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

*Another go at it....*

Here we go, I think this project is coming along relatively well, though if anything is too jinkie I'm sure I'll hear about it, be kind. A couple things to sort out, I think I'll ditch the Control Tech brake in the back they don't seem to get along with the road levers, I'll add the M900s. Speaking of levers, I think I've asked before, but can't find where, what levers would be ideal here, smooth and strong pull?

Another brake related issue, I need a pretty thin front cable hanger, suggestions? I'd love WTBs, but any other attainable ideas?

In either case she's come a long way from a bare frame, my 1900/91 purple Bontrager was the organ donor, the majority of the parts were taken off that (anyone interested? size L, I'll post that properly)...Hoping to get it all set for an inaugural ride next weekend, the recent rains have made the Bay Area trails perfect!


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## chefmiguel (Dec 22, 2007)

Ritchey? Dis-Compe are thinner though.


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Lower a bit down the brake levers. Rotate the bars a bit up. 
Get a turbo saddle.
Levers= shimano.
brakes= shimano.


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## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

Thanks for the input (and being kind), sticking with the flight though, they fit my tushy perfectly. Will find a pair of Shimano levers and maybe a Ritchey cable hanger. I know there's a few of these JBs in the Bay Area, but I'll try later to tweak her my way, I just want get a first ride in. Black neubaum tape or maroon, hmmm. I'll throw it out there in futility WTB shifter mounts???? Dig it


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Mr. Claus said:


> Thanks for the input (and being kind), sticking with the flight though, they fit my tushy perfectly. Will find a pair of Shimano levers and maybe a Ritchey cable hanger. I know there's a few of these JBs in the Bay Area, but I'll try later to tweak her my way, I just want get a first ride in. Black neubaum tape or maroon, hmmm. I'll throw it out there in futility WTB shifter mounts???? Dig it


Bike is looking awesome.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Mr. Claus said:


> Here we go, I think this project is coming along relatively well, though if anything is too jinkie I'm sure I'll hear about it, be kind. A couple things to sort out, I think I'll ditch the Control Tech brake in the back they don't seem to get along with the road levers, I'll add the M900s. Speaking of levers, I think I've asked before, but can't find where, what levers would be ideal here, smooth and strong pull?
> 
> Another brake related issue, I need a pretty thin front cable hanger, suggestions? I'd love WTBs, but any other attainable ideas?
> 
> In either case she's come a long way from a bare frame, my 1900/91 purple Bontrager was the organ donor, the majority of the parts were taken off that (anyone interested? size L, I'll post that properly)...Hoping to get it all set for an inaugural ride next weekend, the recent rains have made the Bay Area trails perfect!


The Shimano hangers are pretty thin and (should) have a barrel adjuster. I'm assuming your rear hanger does? Otherwise you'll have to run in-line adjusters for proper brake micro-adjustment/tuning.
The lever location looks ok, but I otherwise agree 100% with Colker's suggestions.
Ends of the drop bars should at least be following the line of the top tube or at the most be pointing towards the rear derailleur depending on preferences.
Keep in theme with the rest of the M900 build. M900 brakes are terrific and will pull great with some 7400 Dura Ace brake levers.
Build otherwise looks like it's coming along great!












colker1 said:


> Rotate the bars a bit up.
> Get a turbo saddle.
> Levers= shimano.
> brakes= shimano.


^ This.


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## KWN (Feb 15, 2006)

*1995 Trek 930*










Bought new in late '94. Tough to find single threadless adapter in 1.125 (VO has height I need but 1") so I MacGuyvered a Sunlight quill extender with another adapter inserted into that. I'm insured, and giddy. I just prefer the ridiculous steerer rise look to the ridiculous stem rise look. More soon as I build...


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## gigglez (Jan 28, 2017)

I just have to comment, so I'll get an email reminder of where I've been. Every 26" mtb I see now looks like it should have drops on it. I'm glad I found this thread.


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## KWN (Feb 15, 2006)

She's done, and rides beautifully. Glad I never sold this bike.


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## Jonboy99 (Jul 18, 2005)

Here's mine, built from a Kona Kula.


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## Retro Dude (Jun 7, 2010)

*Nothing new under the sun...*

Drop bar, single speed, all-road


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## rockychrysler (Aug 9, 2003)

Retro Dude said:


> Drop bar, single speed, all-road
> 
> View attachment 1140812


Nothing new, indeed. Proof of concept: Coconino Cycling Club, circa 1897.









Considering where and when and how they rode, it's safe to say, they were some pretty darn serious hard-core off-road fixed-gear drop-bar cyclists. I researched the Club and wrote this short article for Bike about them many years ago (pls pardon the self-promo if you find such things offensive).








Click to embiggen.


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## gigglez (Jan 28, 2017)

there was a vintage mtb drop bar conversion thread with 230+ pages I've lost track, can some point me in the right direction.
thanx


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## oneschnark (Dec 16, 2013)

Salut, from Hiddensee...Germany

Philippe


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## joeydalton (Aug 23, 2013)

*Same but different...*

View attachment 1099881


and with the flat bars as a general comparison...

View attachment 1099882


Cheers and ride on[/QUOTE]

I just love the fact that all these old darlings are still around in dark corners of attics and garages.
Had a go at mine, a couple of months ago. 
It is a very early model level top tube Bontrager from before the race/racelite distinction. I bought it second hand in 1994 and it had remnants of the early square decal kit on it, not the later, angled ones. I estimate it to be of 1989/1990 vintage(riveted cable stops and so on).
The cranks suck (on here) but I have a set of steel Tiogas somewhere, they´ll do nicely, when I eventually find them...


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## caemis (Dec 12, 2015)

joeydalton said:


> View attachment 1099881
> 
> 
> and with the flat bars as a general comparison...
> ...


I just love the fact that all these old darlings are still around in dark corners of attics and garages.
Had a go at mine, a couple of months ago. 
It is a very early model level top tube Bontrager from before the race/racelite distinction. I bought it second hand in 1994 and it had remnants of the early square decal kit on it, not the later, angled ones. I estimate it to be of 1989/1990 vintage(riveted cable stops and so on).
The cranks suck (on here) but I have a set of steel Tiogas somewhere, they´ll do nicely, when I eventually find them...
View attachment 1160684

View attachment 1160685

View attachment 1160686
View attachment 1160687
[/QUOTE]

Cool! But why no Cook Bros or XT instead of the Tioga R. as crank alternative?


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## joeydalton (Aug 23, 2013)

Cause I have no Cooks and I like using the bits and bobs that I have floating around. 
And, of course, I much prefer the Tioga cranks.


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## caemis (Dec 12, 2015)

Well, this I can understand. Good luck with finding them


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## mauricer (Apr 15, 2011)

In the making


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## Ralph91 (Oct 6, 2017)

Hello, here s my first conversion 26er drop bar.

Frame: Bressan italian steel frame 56cm


















Inviato dal mio XT1092 utilizzando Tapatalk


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## gravelynp (Aug 28, 2009)

Cannondale Slate, KS LEV 272 dropper post, Shimano XT 11-40 cassette and SGS rear derailleur, Schwalbe 650b x 41 G-One all arounds. 25.0lbs with pedals, cages, Garmin 500 and forward mount, front light mount, rear taillight and 50-34 chainrings


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I was thinking about taking a late 80s-mid 90s 26" rigid bike and set it up as a drop bar bike. I am 5'9" and I know what size road and mtb tends to fit me (52-54cm/ 17-18"), but this drop bar thing breaks all the rules. I don't want to waste time and money on a bike that won't fit.

what size "vintage" 26" bike should i be looking for? I have a line on a 16-inch rigid Barracuda A2V, but so far as I can tell, I am going need a totally whacky stem to make it fit with drop bars. here's a screenshot from the 1996 Barracuda catalog showing their geometry-









so, for those of you who are riding old 26" drop bar conversions, how tall are you and what size frame were you able to make work?


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## caemis (Dec 12, 2015)

mack_turtle said:


> I was thinking about taking a late 80s-mid 90s 26" rigid bike and set it up as a drop bar bike. I am 5'9" and I know what size road and mtb tends to fit me (52-54cm/ 17-18"), but this drop bar thing breaks all the rules. I don't want to waste time and money on a bike that won't fit.
> 
> what size "vintage" 26" bike should i be looking for? I have a line on a 16-inch rigid Barracuda A2V, but so far as I can tell, I am going need a totally whacky stem to make it fit with drop bars. here's a screenshot from the 1996 Barracuda catalog showing their geometry-
> 
> ...


Hi! Basically a MTB with Dirt Drops should have a) a long headtube and b) a shorter toptube then you usually would ride. From my experience I can tell, that you'll need a high rise stem in most of the cases to get it comfortable. Keep in mind that just a handful of bike bitd where designed especially for drops, so for the most part it is try and error - but once you find a matching frame/stem/bar combo its great. I promise 

Maybe the pics can help you to get an idea...

1987 British Eagle (20") - even with a really long headtube, the Salsa P10 it just a bit to high:


1992 Rock Lobster (19") - this one fits perfect!


1999/2000 Matt Chester Utilitiman (19") - still in the build but going with a Velo Organge LD stem


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

mack_turtle said:


> so, for those of you who are riding old 26" drop bar conversions, how tall are you and what size frame were you able to make work?


I've had two:

IMAG0491

IMAG0568

These were both setup for riding primarily on the hoods, but the drops are usable for descents or for cruising.

Both of these frames are also my size with flatbars, but that's because they were meant for 100+mm stems. So with a ~60mm they fit fine with a dirtdrop.


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

caemis said:


> 1999/2000 Matt Chester Utilitiman (19") - still in the build but going with a Velo Organge LD stem


Great score.


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## GrumpyOne (Jan 7, 2004)

caemis said:


> Hi! Basically a MTB with Dirt Drops should have a) a long headtube and b) a shorter toptube then you usually would ride. From my experience I can tell, that you'll need a high rise stem in most of the cases to get it comfortable. Keep in mind that just a handful of bike bitd where designed especially for drops, so for the most part it is try and error - but once you find a matching frame/stem/bar combo its great. I promise
> 
> Maybe the pics can help you to get an idea...
> 
> 1999/2000 Matt Chester Utilitiman (19") - still in the build but going with a Velo Organge LD stem


+1 - Nice find.

My Chester is my most ridden bike.

-jw


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

GrumpyOne said:


> +1 - Nice find.
> 
> My Chester is my most ridden bike.
> 
> ...


Wow, you actually have a Matt Chester. A lot of folks are still waiting for theirs.


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## caemis (Dec 12, 2015)

Thanks J. ! I cant build it as fast as I'd like to, but at least I could fit the stem:



Merry X-Mas to all of you (and for thoose who had Chanukka already, a belated 'chag sameach')


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## dubrat (Mar 24, 2011)

Hunter is coming along 
IMG_0058 by Dubrat, on Flickr


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## gravelynp (Aug 28, 2009)




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## esXso (Sep 23, 2008)

Height 6' 2", 187cm
Frame size 19.5", 49.5cm, 57cm ETT









It seems to me the key to an effective conversion is finding a frame lightly smaller than what you'd generally consider to offset the extra reach of the drop bar and hoods. Modern frames have waaay too long top tubes for drop conversions. I love the low front on steep long climbs. The best commonly available brakes for vintage conversions are normal mtb v-brakes with Travel Agent adapters if you're using short-pull brifters. Don't even bother with cantilevers, the wide-angle type work better but they stick out too far and create a safety hazard.

I would love to build a lightweight modern version of this bike with disk brakes. About the only option for this is a chinese carbon "gravel bike" frame designed for 27.5 x 2.1 wheels/tires. You're almost better off doing that instead of looking all over for vintage parts. If you already have a road bike that fits then you know the measurements you need for a new build.


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

esXso said:


> I would love to build a lightweight modern version of this bike with disk brakes. About the only option for this is a chinese carbon "gravel bike" frame designed for 27.5 x 2.1 wheels/tires. You're almost better off doing that instead of looking all over for vintage parts.


Why, because there's no disc ready 26" frames popping up on eBay from time to time? I'm not trying to pick an argument, just that I think there's plenty of disc ready options in 26", good steel or carbon ones, and you don't need to source something new.

Decent quality frame, carbon fork, discs front and rear, drivetrain of your choice, and ride all day long.

I've got one set up, using Avid BB-7 road discs, that work great with the Cane Creek drop bar levers.

I like the side on profile of yours, got any other pics?

Grumps


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## caemis (Dec 12, 2015)

Few months ago at a really cold winter day... Unfortunately the VO stem didnt survive - fortunately I am already in a queue for a Clockwork made stem.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

caemis said:


> Few months ago at a really cold winter day... Unfortunately the VO stem didnt survive - fortunately I am already in a queue for a Clockwork made stem.


What happened?


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## caemis (Dec 12, 2015)

CS2 said:


> What happened?


Nothing worse. While swapping the bars one of the faceplate screws get slightly stucked and f*cked up the threading completly...


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## RickyFiggz (Jan 11, 2014)

The goal was to keep this as cheap as possible. So far so good but the hooks are still too low. I was looking at a vo quill stem adapter 1", any thoughts? I know they make shims to use with 1 1/8 fork.









Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


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## katsup (Jun 28, 2016)

I have been working on this IBOC Team, but having trouble getting the geometry right to feel comfortable (it's at max stem height). I plan to give it another try soon, but otherwise it will be converted back to a flat bar.









Handlebar: Salsa Cowbell
Shifters: MicroNew 3x7
Stem: Origin8 Pro-Fit


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## caemis (Dec 12, 2015)

katsup said:


> I have been working on this IBOC Team, but having trouble getting the geometry right to feel comfortable (it's at max stem height). I plan to give it another try soon, but otherwise it will be converted back to a flat bar.
> 
> View attachment 1205801
> 
> ...


The setup seems to bee pretty long. Stem height/saddle ratio (both should be on the same level) seems fine. My guess: 
1. your stem is way to long - get it 100mm or even less! 2. The brake lever should be moved down the bars: in the current position your' riding in the levers hoods or you can not grab them while riding in the drops.

Gettin the setup like John Tomac is 100% the wrong approach  At least in order to make the bike feel comfortable...

Go on!


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

katsup said:


> I have been working on this IBOC Team, but having trouble getting the geometry right to feel comfortable (it's at max stem height). I plan to give it another try soon, but otherwise it will be converted back to a flat bar.
> 
> View attachment 1205801
> 
> ...


Needs an LD stem. Use a quill adapter & a Velo Orange Cigne stem. I've got one to sell if you're interested.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## katsup (Jun 28, 2016)

caemis said:


> The setup seems to bee pretty long. Stem height/saddle ratio (both should be on the same level) seems fine. My guess:
> 1. your stem is way to long - get it 100mm or even less! 2. The brake lever should be moved down the bars: in the current position your' riding in the levers hoods or you can not grab them while riding in the drops.
> 
> Gettin the setup like John Tomac is 100% the wrong approach  At least in order to make the bike feel comfortable...
> ...


Thanks for the suggestions. I measured the saddle to bars and it is very close (within a centimeter) to my other drop bar bikes that are comfortable. I have a long torso compared to my legs.

The bars are about an inch or 2 higher than the saddle and I usually like them at the same height. I think the problem is that it is a 20.5in frame when I usually ride a 22in. I have a 22in 950 which I may try next to see if I can get the bars and saddle at the same height.

I made adjustments to the saddle and bars when I was test riding it around the block. I think before I took that photo I tilted the bars up to see how it would feel. The John Tomac approach was not intentional. 



1 cog frog said:


> Needs an LD stem. Use a quill adapter & a Velo Orange Cigne stem. I've got one to sell if you're interested.


This is a budget build and that stem cost new more than what I paid for the complete bike.


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## katsup (Jun 28, 2016)

I moved the components which didn't work on the IBOC Team to my Trek 950, which is a size larger, and now I am comfortable.


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## caemis (Dec 12, 2015)

Well, it has been a while but I finally got my Chester on tires again. The new stem is made by Joel @clockworkbikes and fits me perfect! I am now looking forward to get MC in the dirt!



All the best from Berlin,
M.


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## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

Marco,

That beauty is looking proper! Looks light, nimble and fast. Wish I could wrap bar tape nearly that well, I suppose more practice. Oh and I'll respond to your email later! Cheers from near the birth place of mtn biking! OH, BTW, you missed another epic Marin Fat Tire classic, it was as always a blast!


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## whatisaidwas (Apr 26, 2014)

Ritchey Breakaway Ti MTB, circa 2003 I think. Built with Ultegra 2x11, TRP Spyre brakes, Easton AX bar, Reba fork. This one often wears 650B wheels with 48mm gravel tires for the monster cross setup, and will be my bikepacking rig.

/not especially vintage


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## caemis (Dec 12, 2015)

Nice!


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## Jumbotron (Oct 25, 2018)

OK, so first post on here, with a question. Given my current riding desires, I'm fixing to get me a bike explicitly for the purposes of a drop bar conversion (either that or save my pennies for a Salsa Cutthroat). I've read a ton on this thread and others about geometry and fit and the like, and feel like I've got a reasonable understanding of how that's going to go, but I've been unable to determine something that, for others, is probably totally obvious.

It's about components and compatibility. I know SRAM has more cross-compatibility within the brand than Shimano (plus I like their stuff on my roadie), so I'm going to start there. If I got a bike that came with a 1X11 SRAM setup and mechanical disk brakes, to do a conversion, would I just need to get drop bars and SRAM road levers, or are there complications I'm not aware of?

Thanks! If I end up doing this, you know I'll put pictures up. That's how I roll.


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## RHYGIN1969 (Sep 26, 2018)

Following here as well... I have an old SRAM 3x9 and think I will save the crank, add a new ring, maybe a clutched rear gear changer, a wider cassette.... but the shifters have me puzzled a bit still...


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## blak_byke (Jun 21, 2006)

2000 Jamis Dragon


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

blak_byke said:


> 2000 Jamis Dragon
> 
> View attachment 1225936


Beautiful! Build details please?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## blak_byke (Jun 21, 2006)

1 cog frog said:


> Beautiful! Build details please?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks! I absolutley LOVE this thing!

Deets...

*Frame* - 2000 Jamis Dragon 26 (Reynolds 853) - shaved canti bosses had cable guides brazed on left seat stay. Powder coated black of course.
*Fork* - Salsa Cromoto 26" - I may get the canti bosses shaved to clean up the look. Also have a Trigon carbon fork as well.
*Handlebars* - Salsa Cowbell
*Stem* - Thomson x4 (80mm)
*Headset* - Chris King
*Saddle* - WTB Silverado Ti rails
*Seatpost* - Kent Erikson Ti 
*Seatpost clamp* - Thomson
*Rims* - DT Swiss XR 430 
*Hubs* - Shimano XTR M-965 (32h)
*Spokes* - DT Competition
*Tires* - Schwalbe Super Moto 26x2.35 (may try out Compass Rat Trap Pass)
*Brakes* - TRP Spyre
*Shifters* - Gevenalle GX 1x10
*Rear Der.* - Shimano XT RD-M786 (med. cage)
*Cassette* - Shimano XT CS-M771 (11-36)
*Cranks* - Shimano XTR M952 w/110 bcd spider
*BB* - Shimano BB-M952
*Chainring* - Race Face NW 42t
*Pedals* - XTR PD-M9000
*Chain* - SRAM PC-1071

I think that pretty much sums it up. I plan on building a 650b wheelset since I have two more sets of identical hubs. Salsa Cowchippers on the way as well.


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## Johnny Rhubarb (Jun 3, 2016)

Not really vintage and the handlebar setup is not in Cunningham's spirit, nevertheless I thought it might fit here:


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## caemis (Dec 12, 2015)

Johnny Rhubarb said:


> Not really vintage and the handlebar setup is not in Cunningham's spirit, nevertheless I thought it might fit here:
> View attachment 1232076


Pretty damn cool, but isnt it a bit too long?


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## Johnny Rhubarb (Jun 3, 2016)

Thanks! yeah, it's a bit an the long side, although still fine. The plan is to get a new fork with a shorter A-C to make it better for front loading, then, with a long steerer tube, a fugly tower of spacers and a 50 or even a 35 mm stem it should be right.


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## Crash_FLMB (Jan 21, 2004)

Not really vintage but it is from the first Jabberwocky year so that's something. I bought it new and she's been in all kind of configurations, mostly my SS ride for 9 years before finally getting a Samsara. I tried some Origin8 Batwing bars for a year and just couldn't really get comfy so I started researching drops and someone on mtbr pointed me to some Soma's. I had to modify the MTB shifter a bit but I love how she turned out. Now I'm contemplating a 38T in front or a 2x9 setup. She was built as cheap as possible with almost all spare parts.









Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk


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## leogc (Jan 11, 2019)

Hi Folks,

this is my klein adroit 1996 (i guess), single, rigid, with dropbars.


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

I posted my '93 Litespeed Obed sometime back. Really love the Shimano 105 brifters. Running XTR cantis in the rear and a XTR V brakes up front with a problem solvers cam. Here is a video of a recent ride. The handlebars are perfect for rides such as this.















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Hobine (Jun 16, 2004)

Surprised I never came across this thread.
Here's my restored Trek 950. I stripped it to bare metal and repainted a pearl metallic orange. Stickers under the clear coat from Velo Cals. 
Running 650b wheels built on Nuke Proof hubs.


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## blak_byke (Jun 21, 2006)

Hobine said:


> Surprised I never came across this thread.
> Here's my restored Trek 950. I stripped it to bare metal and repainted a pearl metallic orange. Stickers under the clear coat from Velo Cals.
> Running 650b wheels built on Nuke Proof hubs.


Love love LOVE this build!


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## Crash_FLMB (Jan 21, 2004)

Hobine said:


> Surprised I never came across this thread.
> Here's my restored Trek 950. I stripped it to bare metal and repainted a pearl metallic orange. Stickers under the clear coat from Velo Cals.
> Running 650b wheels built on Nuke Proof hubs.


Good looking right. Are you running the Soma Gators as well? Those look long and flared like mine. 

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk


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## Hobine (Jun 16, 2004)

Crash_FLMB said:


> Good looking right. Are you running the Soma Gators as well? Those look long and flared like mine.
> 
> Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk


The bars are Origin8 Gary Ergos. I don't think they're quit as wide as the Gators, but still on the wider side of drop bars.


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## chaseg30 (Mar 25, 2010)

*Two drop bar retro Cannondales*

This is one of the most fun forums out there!!! My brother and I have two old Cannondales that we have loved turning into drop bar rigs. We both do a lot of commuting to school and work and love to take them out on the dirt! All the bikes on here make us so excited to see everyone making their old mtb's rad again!


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## Squeeze (Apr 14, 2015)

Well done!

I don't post in here often enough, but I love drop-bar vintage MTBs. Fun and (relatively) cheap!


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## Hobine (Jun 16, 2004)

Here is this years winter project. Should do a nice job taking the edge off those all day gravel / unimproved Road epics. 









Made some retro-shift type changers for shifting duties.









Most parts will be from the bin so It will be a bit of a Franken-build.


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## Crash_FLMB (Jan 21, 2004)

Hobine said:


> Here is this years winter project. Should do a nice job taking the edge off those all day gravel / unimproved Road epics.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice! I had a Dean at one time. Fantastic riding bike. I'd love to have another one someday. I'd love to see pics when complete.

I re-built a Vassago from the parts bin. Franken-bikes are fun projects and rides.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk


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## Hobine (Jun 16, 2004)

Somewhat completed. Set up 2x8 right now. 26" wheels with Thunder Burts. I'm building a set of 27.5 wheels too. 









Shimano 600 tri color RD


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## Retro Dude (Jun 7, 2010)

SPAM - Selling a drop bar starter kit - Bar / Stem:

https://classifieds.mtbr.com/showproduct.php?product=116494


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## terry.mc (Jun 14, 2005)

*Stumpjumper Team build*

Hey all,

I've been collecting bits and pieces to get my Stumpjumper dropbar setup sorted out. This weekend I had a few test rides both before and after brakes were cabled and routed to the drops.

Still very much a work in progress, but I'm excited with the direction so far. Next steps are mounting the bar mounted thumb shifters, wrap the bars and get some rides in while I track down a rigid front fork, upgrade to Cowchippers and some other odds and ends.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

terry.mc said:


> Hey all,
> 
> I've been collecting bits and pieces to get my Stumpjumper dropbar setup sorted out. This weekend I had a few test rides both before and after brakes were cabled and routed to the drops.
> 
> ...


I like it so far.


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## terry.mc (Jun 14, 2005)

*Stumpjumper Team update*

Finally done with Spring sports, etc and back to finishing this up.

Salsa CowChippers work nice and I like them better than the woodchippers I mocked everything up with.

Thumb shifter mounts courtesy of Retro Dude. I thought they would be a temporary solution, but I like them so far and might just keep them right where they are.

Still looking for a good direct drive fork to mount up.


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## fatchanceti (Jan 12, 2005)

I really need to spring for a set of those skinwall Nobby Nics


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

terry.mc said:


> Finally done with Spring sports, etc and back to finishing this up.
> 
> Salsa CowChippers work nice and I like them better than the woodchippers I mocked everything up with.
> 
> ...


I like those mounts a lot. I have been looking for a nice direct drive fork myself. They have really gone up in price.


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## buell (Oct 15, 2015)

i plan on getting a pair of these thumb shifter mounts for if/when i ever get around to building a retro drop bar bike. i have plans, just not sure if i should use one of my existing bikes or get a new bike. n+1...

Kelly TakeOff - Kelly Bike Company : Kelly Bike Company


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## terry.mc (Jun 14, 2005)

CS2 said:


> I like those mounts a lot. I have been looking for a nice direct drive fork myself. They have really gone up in price.


I have a few more rides on this rig now. The mounts are great. They are in a great spot, easy to reach, easy to use, etc. Good stuff and well executed.


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## mikael_on_wheels (Jun 10, 2019)

Hi! Looking to convert a 1991 GT Karakoram to drop bar. Nitto MT-10 has been acquired. 

Anyone know what bar end shifters would work with my 3x7 Deore LX?


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## Hobine (Jun 16, 2004)

mikael_on_wheels said:


> Hi! Looking to convert a 1991 GT Karakoram to drop bar. Nitto MT-10 has been acquired.
> 
> Anyone know what bar end shifters would work with my 3x7 Deore LX?


Any of them will work in friction mode. If you need indexed, micro-shift might make a 7 speed. 
8 speed is much easier to come by.


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## mikael_on_wheels (Jun 10, 2019)

Hobine said:


> Any of them will work in friction mode. If you need indexed, micro-shift might make a 7 speed.
> 8 speed is much easier to come by.


Thanks! Indexed much preferred. Can't find 7 speed made by microSHIFT, 8 speed exists though. Would it be possible to use an 8 speed Shimano (Ultegra?) or microSHIFT and limit range limit screws?

Otherwise, would these work? Or are they just for Shimano road derailleurs?


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## Hobine (Jun 16, 2004)

I believe you could get 8 speed bar ends to work with 7 speed with an alternate cable routing.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#alternate


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

mikael_on_wheels said:


> Thanks! Indexed much preferred. Can't find 7 speed made by microSHIFT, 8 speed exists though. Would it be possible to use an 8 speed Shimano (Ultegra?) or microSHIFT and limit range limit screws?
> 
> Otherwise, would these work? Or are they just for Shimano road derailleurs?


Ebay is full of the 7 speed shifters. Microshift also shows them on their website. Shimano also makes a set in 7 speed double and triple.


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## Shane5001 (Dec 18, 2013)

Nitto 100mm dirt drop stem, origin8 gary bars, and tektro levers with crosstop levers. All been used once and sitting in the shop from my failed dirt drop attempt 5+ years ago. The handlebars will be trickier to ship but everything else will fit in a medium flat rate box. P.M. me if interested. I'll get them on the classifieds as well.


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## Davyd (May 27, 2020)

Specialized BB1 Bars


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## tinypenguin (Feb 14, 2016)

Has anyone converted to drop bar and kept original hydraulic disc brakes? this is a big issue for me since i need that stopping power from my reliable shimano deore disc brakes.
I have a 1x9 shifting now since I just dropped the front derailleur.


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## janthenat (Nov 16, 2009)

*1995 GT Tequesta*


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Davyd said:


> Specialized BB1 Bars


Cool Salsa. What is the serial number?


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## Davyd (May 27, 2020)

#82


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

tinypenguin said:


> Has anyone converted to drop bar and kept original hydraulic disc brakes? this is a big issue for me since i need that stopping power from my reliable shimano deore disc brakes.
> I have a 1x9 shifting now since I just dropped the front derailleur.


With hydraulic road brakes becoming a thing - it could be done. No hydraulic road levers come in 9 speed to my knowledge so you'd be looking at 11sp which means new everything else. Dollars add up big time there.

I have had good luck with the Avid mechanical road disc callipers which work specifically with the pull of road brake levers. I have heard good things about TRP mechanical callipers too.

I doubt you could run MTB brake levers on the flat of the bar due to clamp/bar diameter compatibility and even if you could it would be a bit goofy and a bit unsafe if you spend any time in the drops.

Grumps


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Davyd said:


> #82


Very cool. If you have a nice side profile of the bike it would be good to include in the Salsa bike gallery here,

Vintage Ross Shafer Salsa Photos - Vintage Mountain Bike Workshop


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## Davyd (May 27, 2020)

Here we go - @ the spillway on Lagunitas.


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## peterjames (Jul 13, 2004)

*1988 Nishiki Backroads*

Nishiki I saw sitting in the trash. Converted to 44/18 single speed, bars were left over from previous. All in, less than $200.00 Quirky geometry, but very quick. Oddest feature has to be the chainstay mounted rear brake.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)




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## whatisaidwas (Apr 26, 2014)

DoubleCentury said:


>


I wish this forum had a like button. Dang, I'd click on that like a monkey.


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## whatisaidwas (Apr 26, 2014)

peterjames said:


> Nishiki I saw sitting in the trash. Converted to 44/18 single speed, bars were left over from previous. All in, less than $200.00 Quirky geometry, but very quick. Oddest feature has to be the chainstay mounted rear brake.


Compliments on this build, much improved over the before photo. Nice reuse of matching stem for the win.

/also super sleek saddle on $5 post


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## k2blt (Jun 25, 2014)

Dubbed Project Zero... initially a parts bin build.

My dad bought this GT Timberline back in 93. Sat for nearly 25 years, so I blew it apart, sanded down, repainted, and pieced together with various parts as a kart road/gravel cruiser for my local neighborhood.


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## cshanek42 (Jul 30, 2021)

singlecross said:


> Just back from shakedown ride... so far, so GOOD! 1991 Stumpjumper Comp built with black LX, Salsa woodchippers, and Deore Thumbies on drop bar mounts.


Hey, not sure if you are still on here. I recently purchased the same 91 Stumpjumper Comp frame for a gravel bike build and was hoping to reach out to you to get some info from your build/experience. For now I am trying to track down one of the original 1" direct drive forks (mine had original suspension I think), and trying to figure out it 650s will work on that work. Do you still have your dropped stumpy? Any advice?


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## manuelschafer (Feb 3, 2018)

whatisaidwas said:


> I wish this forum had a like button. Dang, I'd click on that like a monkey.


now it has


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## surly357 (Jan 19, 2006)

Note to self: *Not *a flattering angle for a Dirtdrop stem photo...


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## manuelschafer (Feb 3, 2018)

surly357 said:


> Note to self: *Not *a flattering angle for a Dirtdrop stem photo...
> 
> View attachment 1990702


looks like the old OG towl rack bars


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## Monsieur Paul (3 mo ago)

Here is one of my favorite bikes. A 1991 Bridgestone MB-5 set up with dirt drops. Super cruisey -it’s surprisingly fast on the road, and amazing on forestry roads here in the Canadian Rockies. Paul brakes, Trp levers, specialized (SR or Nitto) stem and standard road bars (44cm) drilled for bar end shifter routing. Mix of 500LX and XT parts.


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