# Remote Lockout Fox RL



## deef (Feb 12, 2008)

Hello,
I`ve made a remote lockout kit for Fox forks, type RL.
 :thumbsup: 
http://lockoutdeef.googlepages.com/Default.htm

There are 5 lockouts made for some people,
in 1 or 2 months I`ve another 30.

Deef (Holland)


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

Adaptable to the Fox RLC or RLT forks?


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## deef (Feb 12, 2008)

For the RLT,
not for the RLC, the problem is the red ring. There is no space for springs etc.

a few pictures from a 2008 RL


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## V.P. (Aug 26, 2007)

very cool


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## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

It's good to know that it's possible to modify the Fox to go remote. I bought a RS Reba instead of a Fox RL precisely because Fox didn't have the remote lockout. Too bad for them but they lost a customer.


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## deef (Feb 12, 2008)

If you have questions,
you can send an email to: [email protected]


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## krolik (Jun 9, 2006)

*talas remote*

I'm your customer if you figure out the remote for the talas II lever


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## ghawk (Sep 14, 2007)

*Make one for Talas and RP23 and I'll absolutely buy.*



krolik said:


> I'm your customer if you figure out the remote for the talas II lever


Me too. If you figure out one for the Talas RLC I'll definetly by one. 
I used the remote poploc all the time on my reba. I needed a longer travel 3 stage fork that did not take forever to change stages via u-turn technology so I went with the Fox Talas RLC. 
I use the rlc in 3 ways. You can turn the lock supposedly just (on/off) about 3 millimeters from the locked position and it goes from fully locked to partial dampening. Then, of course further clockwise turn completely unlocks it.
So, I need a lockout lever that is similar to the old friction shift levers so I can get that level of 3 settings control. 
Another remote lever I need is for the rp23.
The other nice thing about using these shocks is the are the most tunable I have found by sending them for re-valving at push industries.
:thumbsup:


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## ghawk (Sep 14, 2007)

Hey Deef,
Again, let us know if you ever figure out the RLC I could sure use a remote lockout. As a 3 stage 100/120/140 It is a great fork for a remote cause super finicky people like it. I use at least 100 and 140 all the time and really could use a remote. I have a bike coming that has a remote for the back shock (DT Swiss XR). But, it really doesn't matter much if I have to reach down anyway for the Talas.
Would it be possible to remove the compression adjuster ring to do the mod ?
Thanks


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## krolik (Jun 9, 2006)

ghawk said:


> Hey Deef,
> ....Would it be possible to remove the compression adjuster ring to do the mod ?
> Thanks


Hmm....
correct me if I'm wrong but compression/lockout/rebound is on top of the right leg, whereas talasII lever is on top of the left....
What one has to do with the other?


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## ghawk (Sep 14, 2007)

krolik said:


> Hmm....
> correct me if I'm wrong but compression/lockout/rebound is on top of the right leg, whereas talasII lever is on top of the left....
> What one has to do with the other?


I thought the problem was that the extra low-speed compression bezel on top of the right leg did not allow him to engineer the lockout lever. I guess I'm not really understanding what the problem is.
(Of course that is a blue ring not a red one.)
I could not really find a red ring.
http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/Forks/TALAS/TALAS_RLC.htm
I wonder if he would just sell kit for the rlt and I have a guy in the states that might be able to adapt it. I sent a couple of emails to address above to no avail.
Sure is a cool product !
Edit more info. Seems I could be right, it is the compression knob that is the issue. Here is another thread with someone else doing the same thing only in carbon.
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=383471
I sure hope one of these really gets off the ground. I've tried to get Fox to step up before but it is such a small market compared to r&d and manufacturing cost of it they really don't seem to give a %^^&* about the extra finicky riders that look for absolute control and performance. Remember the old remote fox made for the rl ? There are some still around. Also, Jagwire made a remote for some rock shoxs and rear floats for awhile in 2005 but required allot of retro hacking to get to work and was d/ced.


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## Tiffster (Jan 30, 2008)

Deef i've emailed you....


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## deef (Feb 12, 2008)

I`ve made a little movie:
http://lockoutdeef.googlepages.com/Movie.html


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## Tiffster (Jan 30, 2008)

Deef - that looks better than most of the stuff you get Stock! Well done!

Again - i think you could REALLY make it big by making kits for rearshocks...


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## ghawk (Sep 14, 2007)

God this is so bad, profile wise, glad it's a prototype (i hope.) They should have just copied the poploc.
http://www.velonews.com/photo/74736


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## Tiffster (Jan 30, 2008)

Afraid not:


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## ghawk (Sep 14, 2007)

Supposedly it is backwardly compatible with other 32 mm platforms (Hopefully the Talas. I'm getting tired of waiting and may rent some shop time to do it myself.)
http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php...shox09/Fox_Racing_Shox_2009_RL_Remote_top_cap
Probably the slickest solution for non-talas users would buy Deets remote system and use a poploc.
(Deef's non-talas version sure is alot cleaner looking. ) 
Who cares if the warranty is voided sending it for push valving does that anyway.


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## deef (Feb 12, 2008)

The 2009 lockout from fox don`t work with the older forks.
I think you can buy a new cardridge, if you have a lot monney!:skep:


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## ghawk (Sep 14, 2007)

Even with a new damper assembly I don't beleive it. I emailed Fox and will see if I actually get a response.


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## Tiffster (Jan 30, 2008)

@ Deef

Any developments in making lockout kits for Rear shocks? I have two designs one of which is a retrofit and works but another one which would be far better however i lack the equipment to machine the bits....


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## alor14582 (Jan 19, 2008)

how much for the lockout system, and what all does it come with?


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## ghawk (Sep 14, 2007)

Update from fox, it will be a retro on SOME models. They had no more details at this time, so I would not hold my breath waiting on them.


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## deef (Feb 12, 2008)

The lockout systems are ready, 
After you send an email to [email protected] with your adres and type/year fork,
I give you the information for the payment and more.


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## deef (Feb 12, 2008)




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## VailMaintenance (May 14, 2008)

So nothin for the RLC huh- Got a F100 and thats the only thing that sucks- reachin down to open that thing back up- If theres anything you come up with to get around the compression knob Ill pick one of those up in a heartbeat- Gotta say too your setup looks really sweet- I know 3 or 4 other guys who have the same complaint on the same fork...I know theyd sink your praises also- Im patient
Appreciated-


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## Resist (Aug 13, 2008)

Interesting mod, seems like it would be very useful not having to take a hand of a grip. How much is it?


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## ccaddy (Jun 14, 2006)

What does the actuation lever look like ?


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## Resist (Aug 13, 2008)

Did you look at his site that he posted in the first thread? http://lockoutdeef.googlepages.com/Default.htm


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## glovemtb (Mar 12, 2006)

> So nothin for the RLC huh- Got a F100 and thats the only thing that sucks- reachin down to open that thing back up- If theres anything you come up with to get around the compression knob Ill pick one of those up in a heartbeat- Gotta say too your setup looks really sweet- I know 3 or 4 other guys who have the same complaint on the same fork...I know theyd sink your praises also- Im patient
> Appreciated-


Me too. Another vote for Talas. It is a pain in a fast siduation to have to reach down. But, I am reaching down on the left to set travel back to 140mm and to right to unlock. Then under to unlock rear. Whew, fine for rides but not for racing.


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## Saietor (Sep 7, 2008)

Hey guys!

I'm gonna try to modify my Vanilla RLC for remote lockout.OFC I wont be able to utilize the hex nut (because of compression adjustment ring), so the cable stop will be fixed to the crown, I guess.

I dunno if that will be a removable or premanent attachment, we'll see how it goes. Also, I'd try to make an electrical actuator, kinda like the on Lefty fork is using, but with external motor and battery.

Will get back to you with pictures, when thats done.


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## ghawk (Sep 14, 2007)

Saietor said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> I'm gonna try to modify my Vanilla RLC for remote lockout.OFC I wont be able to utilize the hex nut (because of compression adjustment ring), so the cable stop will be fixed to the crown, I guess.
> 
> ...


Forget the electric, it is a waste of time, you have to do the spring load anyway. Just get the top cap done and I will buy it if it works with the Talas.


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## carlhmartens (Oct 22, 2008)

deef said:


>


Noticed the beads you have...aren't those around $80 retail or so? You seem to be someone who doesn't sacrifice on looks or performance.


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## carlhmartens (Oct 22, 2008)

deef said:


> Hello,
> I`ve made a remote lockout kit for Fox forks, type RL.
> :thumbsup:
> http://lockoutdeef.googlepages.com/Default.htm
> ...


If you can provide me with a write-up about your product I'd be happy to publish it on our site to try to get you some added exposure. Contact me through our site, www.mtobikes.com


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## deef (Feb 12, 2008)

I like nice parts!!


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## TooManyToyz (Feb 23, 2007)

Pulled this from his website. Very expensive for a lockout.

--> Price: 150,- Euro (shipping excluded). 
http://lockoutdeef.googlepages.com/Default_en.htm


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## Tiffster (Jan 30, 2008)

I think it's a decent price actually

When you look at the cost of a Pushloc - and a new damper to use a remote lockout thats REAL expensive.


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## TooManyToyz (Feb 23, 2007)

It's more than a third of what my fork cost. For that much, just buy a different fork. Besides, the materials cost isn't much for what he's done. Don't get me wrong though, it looks VERY well made. I've thought about doing this myself (I have the RLC) but I don't have the equipment to machine it.


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## Jacobus (Jul 23, 2006)

Deef, sounds like you have a market for RLC Forks (me included). I have some inexpensive ideas of how you could adapt your current design to work. PM me if you want to discuss.


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## Beastierider (Feb 7, 2009)

Hi. 

I just get a FOX RLC 2008 soon. So there is another one in the RLC Interest Pool 

greetings


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## danlate (Jun 24, 2008)

a while ago a friend and i started to make our own lockout for fox forks. he made the cable stop from carbon, it just slides onto the hex shape top cap. its very secure, no need for a bolt. but then we got stuck, you need a spring in the lockout lever. how do you do that?

we have also various designs for a handlebar lever. i tried to incorporate it with the bolts on an avid juicy lever.

here is a picture of the fork part.


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## Mtbric (Jan 13, 2004)

*The old SID lever is spring loaded*



danlate said:


> a while ago a friend and i started to make our own lockout for fox forks. he made the cable stop from carbon, it just slides onto the hex shape top cap. its very secure, no need for a bolt. but then we got stuck, you need a spring in the lockout lever. how do you do that?
> 
> we have also various designs for a handlebar lever. i tried to incorporate it with the bolts on an avid juicy lever.
> 
> here is a picture of the fork part.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

I just got off the phone with Fox and they ARE selling the Remote Kit now to the tune of $150 (if it fits your fork- I have an F90 RL and it will work). If you could develop this thing a little, and sell it for cheap ($50-75?), you would make a killing. If you have any of those carbon cable-stops sitting around, I would be happy to play with it and see if we could develop a spring-load system of some sort. Let me know.

If anyone wants to contact Fox for the kit, you can call 1-800-369-7469 xt 4801.

I think $150 is too much.


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## 2ndgen (Jun 6, 2008)

alshead said:


> I just got off the phone with Fox and they ARE selling the Remote Kit now to the tune of $150 (if it fits your fork- I have an F90 RL and it will work). If you could develop this thing a little, and sell it for cheap ($50-75?), you would make a killing. If you have any of those carbon cable-stops sitting around, I would be happy to play with it and see if we could develop a spring-load system of some sort. Let me know.
> 
> If anyone wants to contact Fox for the kit, you can call 1-800-369-7469 xt 4801.
> 
> I think $150 is too much.


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## Jacobus (Jul 23, 2006)

alshead said:


> I just got off the phone with Fox and they ARE selling the Remote Kit now to the tune of $150 (if it fits your fork- I have an F90 RL and it will work). If you could develop this thing a little, and sell it for cheap ($50-75?), you would make a killing. If you have any of those carbon cable-stops sitting around, I would be happy to play with it and see if we could develop a spring-load system of some sort. Let me know.
> 
> If anyone wants to contact Fox for the kit, you can call 1-800-369-7469 xt 4801.
> 
> I think $150 is too much.


I was told you have to change the dampener cartridge also?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

The guy at Fox told me the "kit" consisted of a new cap, the cable and the handlebar lever. I think changing the cartridge might depend on the fork, but he said that's all I would need (basically just replaces the blue knob/ dial/ switch on the top of the fork for lockout, so I'm not sure why you'd need to replace the cartridge). Again, I have the F90 RL, so this might be different for other forks. And I still think it's too much- as someone else said, that's a third of the price of the whole fork (of course the new fork with lockout is like $750).


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## luker (Apr 11, 2006)

danlate said:


> a while ago a friend and i started to make our own lockout for fox forks. he made the cable stop from carbon, it just slides onto the hex shape top cap. its very secure, no need for a bolt. but then we got stuck, you need a spring in the lockout lever. how do you do that?
> 
> we have also various designs for a handlebar lever. i tried to incorporate it with the bolts on an avid juicy lever.
> 
> here is a picture of the fork part.


I would like to see someone pursue this...all you need is to secure the cable on both sides of the tab on the blue ring. The cable can push as well as pull. (depending on the cable deployment, the cable may also need to be secured in a groove around the blue ring.)


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## riderstar (Apr 14, 2009)

Oh really, this is awesome news for me and I very excited to know about this remote kit. Thanks for sharing this great information as well as picks.


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## DaveAus (Sep 7, 2010)

*Fox Float RP2 remote kit*

Hi all,

I have a remote kit available for the Fox Float RP2 rear shock. See the link below for more info:

https://www.precisionkinetic.com/image_host/foxshockremote.jpg

Cheers,
Dave


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## hsolorza (Nov 29, 2010)

*Need Remote Lockout Kit for 09 Talas RL*

Deef, are you still creating the remote lockout kit for Talas RL (2009). Interested in buying a kit. Henry


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## hsolorza (Nov 29, 2010)

alshead said:


> The guy at Fox told me the "kit" consisted of a new cap, the cable and the handlebar lever. I think changing the cartridge might depend on the fork, but he said that's all I would need (basically just replaces the blue knob/ dial/ switch on the top of the fork for lockout, so I'm not sure why you'd need to replace the cartridge). Again, I have the F90 RL, so this might be different for other forks. And I still think it's too much- as someone else said, that's a third of the price of the whole fork (of course the new fork with lockout is like $750).


I and my local LBS have been back and forth with FOX for several months. NO remote lockout kit available for Talas. Fox believes that only XC riders will want to dial in their ride via handle bars. They believe that Trail, Freeride, and All Mountain riders don't care. Fox yearly manufacture a short run of Talas shocks for Scott Genius bikes with remote lockout but don't carry spares. Great shock but lousy customer support. 
:madman:


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Prototype in the works*

I have tried to contact Deef a few times over the last couple of years with no success. My buddy and I are working on a prototype of a mount very similar to Deef's, but lighter. We're working out the kinks with spring return and a couple other details, but I'll post here when we have more to show. In all likelihood, we won't be selling a complete kit (no lever, cable and housing), but just the attachment to go on the top-cap assembly and hold/ route the housing.

We're trying to put something together that would eliminate the need for drilling holes or pulling apart your top-cap- making it both a little "idiot-proof" and avoid voiding warranties with Fox. The result is a "cap" that snaps on to your top-cap. We're also trying to make it affordable. Again, this is still all in prototype stages, but if you're interested, PM me. Prototype has been made for 32mm RL shocks- hasn't been tested on RLC's and might not work without some modification...

Here's a sneak peak:


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## hsolorza (Nov 29, 2010)

The prototypes looke PHENOMENAL. I will personal message you regarding pricing and delivery. Has it been tested extensively on the trails? Will the final remain plastic. Absolutely brilliant. My forks are '09, 32mm, Talas RLs.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Prototype*



hsolorza said:


> The prototypes looke PHENOMENAL. I will personal message you regarding pricing and delivery. Has it been tested extensively on the trails? Will the final remain plastic. Absolutely brilliant.


The plan is to keep it plastic for now- it's super lightweight and pretty durable. This version has only been on the trails 1/2 dozen times, and so far, so good, but we have to make some tweaks to the top-cap piece. The base is rock solid. We're trying to iron out how the top-cap piece "snaps" on and what's best to use for the spring-return mechanism (a spring or elastic of some sort). It's currently set up with just an old thumb shifter and works great, but I've got a Rock Shox remote lever on order and will set it up with that. The levers are complicated and expensive, which is part of why we'll likely let customers figure out that part on their own. No ideas on pricing yet. Will probably do it for cheaper initially and have people do some riding/ abuse on them, giving us feedback/ ideas. Not looking to make this a big thing, just saw a need and started to tinker...


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Post it here when you are done and I will buy one. I have an RL and an RLC so I might buy one and try to tweak it for the RLC and then if I get it to work I can buy another for the RL. If not, I can use it on the RL.

It would be nice if you could work a deal with someone you know in the bike biz to sell a Rock Shox lever with it. This would make the overall deal cheaper for someone assuming you have a decent price and also, allow you to tweak the design for that lever so that people wouldn't have implementation problems with other levers and your design such as different cable pull, etc. Then you only have to support one lever.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

yourdaguy said:


> Post it here when you are done and I will buy one. I have an RL and an RLC so I might buy one and try to tweak it for the RLC and then if I get it to work I can buy another for the RL. If not, I can use it on the RL.
> 
> It would be nice if you could work a deal with someone you know in the bike biz to sell a Rock Shox lever with it. This would make the overall deal cheaper for someone assuming you have a decent price and also, allow you to tweak the design for that lever so that people wouldn't have implementation problems with other levers and your design such as different cable pull, etc. Then you only have to support one lever.


I run a little bike shop out of my garage as a hobby (shop mechanic for many years, now a guy with a family and a job that actually pays the bills)- I rebuild forks all the time and will definitely try to test it on an RLC and possibly make one that will work.

I hear you on the levers. I've been trying lots of different avenues, but haven't pulled through with any connections yet. I'm not interested in putting out a bunch of money to have a stock of levers sitting around- this was just an idea that I'd been playing with in my head for a long time, and a buddy of mine made it a reality- the original purpose was just for personal use (not about to pay Fox $150 for a kit that MIGHT come out in a year... might not...). If you know anyone or if anyone's reading this who has a hookup, and there's enough interest, I would consider it, but I've been hitting a lot of dead ends with that (even contacted QBP and BTI). I have another couple of avenues to try- if I get a break on some levers, I'd probably do just what you're recommending, but if not, then I'm going to keep it low-key and assume that people who are buying are somewhat resourceful do-it-yourselfers who can make it work...

Again, I'll keep you posted .


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## hsolorza (Nov 29, 2010)

I like Al's more generic approach to product development so that the kit could be integrated as part of many remote lockout solutions. Rockshocks would simply be one set of levers. 

Bike accessory and component manufacturers are looking at single lever, variable geometry bike solutions that eventually integrate adjustable seat posts, rear shocks, and front forks. 

A generic kit would allow people to retrofit older bikes with variable geometry solutions using 1, 2, or 3 way remote lockout switches (current and future). Focusing on an exclusively RockShock-centered and 1-way lever solution might restrict viability of Al's kit in a maket that is rapidly changing.


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## frambo (Jan 10, 2011)

Wow this looks amazing. Registered on here just to say that. 

Seriously hats off to you- awesome design. 

Any idea on a release date and cost?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

@frambo: Thanks. And welcome to mtbr. The first version had a few issues that we're ironing out. The base cap will remain essentially the same, but the top cap has been relatively redesigned and streamlined. We should have our new prototypes in a week or so. I'll set it up, ride it, beat it up, and if it's looking good, I'll post here and let people know how to order. If it needs more refining, it'll be another couple of weeks after that. We're also playing with different spring systems and have a design/ prototype coming in which we'll be testing a rubber-band/ elastic return instead of the spring. Ultimately, this might be the last thing we figure out- the spring we're using now (above), seems to be holding up pretty well, but I'm worried that it will lose its strength in time (and needs to be surprisingly strong). Another possibility would be reversing the cable pull so that when the cable is pulled, it released the lockout instead of engaging it- the reason for this is that if a Fox lockout it pushed (or, in this case, pulled) into lockout mode very strongly, it makes the valve kind of "stick" (PUSH and others actually sand the base of the valve when they rebuild/ overhaul the fork to help the lockout release better and avoid this stiction- especially on RLC's). Anyway, that's more than you asked for. Trust me, I'll keep posting updates here as we get and test the new stuff. I'm excited about the responses I've gotten and it definitely seems like there's a demand.

As for pricing. I'm unsure as of yet. I've pretty much exhausted every avenue for being able to supply it as a full kit with a lever, so we'll likely just be selling it as a basecap/ topcap version. We might also make just the basecap available if people want to drill their existing blue levers and affix the cable and spring that way- our purpose for the topcap is to have a "snap-on" design that will prevent any warranty issues or drilling, etc, but if people want it the other way, well, the people will get it . There are RockShox Poploc levers available for about $30 if you search around (http://goo.gl/hZCAw). I currently have mine set up with the RS Pushloc, which is slightly different, but I'll get a Poploc and test it with that as well.

So... I know this might sound crazy, but given that people would have to spend $30-40 on just the lever, I'm wondering what sounds reasonable to those on this thread for pricing?


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## frambo (Jan 10, 2011)

OK, first off one thing I didn't notice is the $ around here.

You from Denver, me from London. Still, that's not an issue- I've got people all over the US I could get one sent to.

On my previous bike (since stolen- looking at getting a new one with a fox fork which doesn't have remote lockout) I had a RS Recon with the pop-loc. Was great, but as you say, to be sure that it will work every single time, it had to be quite strong.

As for pricing, I've no idea what prices are like in the US, but as you say, its $30-40 for just the lever and over here its about £30-40. So I'd probably get one from the US as well.

Its your time and effort and you deserve to make a gain out of this. I mean, one option I was exploring was to sell the fork and purchase a new one just because the fox remote was so damn expensive if I could find one and would require a new cartridge etc.

So on that count, as far as I'm concerned you can sell it for whatever price _you see fit and I would still purchase one if I have the cash at the time.

P.S. The rubber band elastic return doesn't sound like the best idea to me. Less friction maybe and smoother motion, but once it breaks (and from my experience with rubber replacing springs its likely it will snap at some point) it would likely be quite problematic to reinstall._


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

There is a price demand curve for every item. If you price it high, you will sell fewer and make a larger profit on each unit. If you sell it low, you will sell a bunch of them and make a little profit on a lot of units. Some point along that curve maximizes your profits.

The way to do "unscientific" market research is to ask the question:

would you buy if it was $10
would you buy if it was $20
would you buy if it was $30
would you buy if it was $40
would you buy if it was $50

this is "unscientific" because you would generally only ask one of the 5 questions to many people on a random basis, etc. However, if you ask all 5, you will probably get fairly good data and this method is free. Other methods cost money.

After getting a fair number of responses you can plot the curve (price vs # of units) and then plot your cost curve against that to see the max profit.

I will start the survey:

I would for sure buy at $30 or less. Above that, I might buy but would have to think about it.

So everyone should just send in a reply of what price they would for sure buy if that or below. If we get 50 replies, anyone one the list can collect and run the data. If we have less than 50 replies, the data is still good, but the margin for error is fairly large.


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## frambo (Jan 10, 2011)

I am the user that sees it a necessity so I would buy it for $50 even, if I could afford to. 

However I think the average guy, who doesn't really mind either way whether he has it or not is going to be willing to fork out more like only $30 or less. Pun intended by the way. 

I think a bunch of us would appreciate a black version for those of use that own black fox forks. 

A 2/3 week completion time is perfect, just coincides nicely with the arrival of my new bike I hope! :devil:


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## hsolorza (Nov 29, 2010)

*Incredible Attention to the Details*

I second the idea of a black version and would pay between 30-50 USD for the base-cap/top-cap version. As long as the lockout cap is customer serviceable, you might consider carrying a "spares" kit that would include springs or elastemers.

BTW, I am *VERY IMPRESSED* with the amount of consideration that your are giving the design/engineering/testing of the caps. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## JDM (May 2, 2008)

Nice work!


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Just wanted to keep folks updated- we should be receiving the second version of the prototype today. I'll post pics later and mount it up and keep you updated on development. We are also looking into being able to offer in black and possibly even other colors (blue, red, just for fun). I have finally found a pretty good deal on the RockShocks poploc lever and will test it out and possibly offer that as part of the package. Look for more later this evening...


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## frambo (Jan 10, 2011)

Can't wait!

Now I'm not sure whether I'll be getting a black or a white fork so I'll just wait and see. 

Just wondering, does the white plastic bit where the spring is attached to need to be so long? The way I see it, that's just something to get broken off or catch on things. Would it not work with a shorter spring or would that make it come into contact with the curved surface?. I can see the point of elastic now- you can make the whole thing smaller and more compact. 

Probably getting ahead of myself but what about a magnet somewhere in the design? Like somehow to keep the lockout even more lockout but weak enough so that when there's the sudden force of the pop lock 'popping' it will dislodge the magnet. 


Anyway, I'm just getting to caught up and excited and spouting nonsense. Pop-lock levers would be great, though what's the other option if that's not desired?


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## hsolorza (Nov 29, 2010)

Can't wait!


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

I have been exploring the Fox Technical manuals of late and according to Fox the difference between locked and unlocked is less than 90 degrees even though the lever is able to travel over 180 degrees. It looks like you could design for 100 degrees of travel and it would be easier.


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## henry9419 (Nov 18, 2010)

im not trying to jack the thread, but does anyone know if any of fox rear shocks are remote lockout/adjustable capable?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Rear Shocks*



henry9419 said:


> im not trying to jack the thread, but does anyone know if any of fox rear shocks are remote lockout/adjustable capable?


Yes- they are. Fox made a kit for some of the rear shocks for a while- they were also making a dual kit that would work with both a rear shock and front shock and lock them both out at the flip of a switch. I think that's also discontinued. I think Fox is focusing more on the Trail/ Downhill category and they're treating the XC folks like second-class citizens a little. Lockout is great for climbing, for SS riding, and lots of other reasons, but they've more or less dropped it as an option on a lot of XC forks.

There are lots of folks who have developed make-shift remote systems for rear shocks, though- search on youtube and google for fox remote lockout and you'll find some of the examples.

There was a guy who posted this earlier in the thread and his website says it's no longer available... https://www.precisionkinetic.com/image_host/foxshockremote.jpg


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Spring rotations, etc*



yourdaguy said:


> I have been exploring the Fox Technical manuals of late and according to Fox the difference between locked and unlocked is less than 90 degrees even though the lever is able to travel over 180 degrees. It looks like you could design for 100 degrees of travel and it would be easier.


Yes- this is something I'm always telling clients of mine- I'm always amazed at how little people know about how their shocks work (and I am no expert, I just understand the settings a bit)- but many people believe that the Fox system works more like the Flood Gate on the Rock Shox, but that's not the case- it is either open or not open, and the release is much less than the full swing of the lever (like you said, less than 90deg).

Anyway, I'm loving all of the ideas and thoughts. Trust me, we've dreamed to the extent of using a servo and doing a wireless device, to just bagging the whole thing (not to say that we've thought of everything). The problem with a shorter spring is that we're having trouble finding something that will be strong enough and durable enough (where the spring won't lose its memory)- the little tabs that you're looking at in these pics are maybe 2mm big, so we're not talking about something that's flailing out there waiting to get broken off, but we're going to have to get it out there and get feedback and we'll tweak it as needed. As it is, the spring doesn't pull it all the way back, just enough to get the lockout released.

Still waiting on the latest prototype to arrive- thought it would be earlier this week but now looks like either today or (gasp) Monday- believe me, I'm as anxious as you guys to get these in and figure out if they work.

@Frambo- the magnet idea is intriguing, but probably not realistic- you'd need a REALLY strong magnet- there is a surprising amount of friction that we're working against (which is why the fox-made versions have a huge internal spring in the topcap similar to a canti brake spring). Our goal, after all of the dreaming, is to make something that will work really well, but be very simple and not require any disassembly of the fork. Snap on, snap off- if we can hit that goal, I think it'll be a really nice device.

Again, I'll keep folks posted. I've heard from some folks that they've cross- posted some fo this info- if you think of another thread/ forum where we should post when we get this all together and are ready to sell, feel free to pm me.

Al


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Hey kids- just wanted to give all of those who were interested an update on things- Our second prototype came in and had a couple of tweaks that still need to be made. We have resubmitted the new model and should have those in about two weeks. If those are looking good, I'll start getting them out to all who are interested, but if we need to make more tweaks, it will be another couple of weeks. Basically, from the time we finish the modeling to receiving the items is 10 working days. I don't want to put something out to you that's not going to work, and we're still figuring out what might be best (for instance, we were able to test the rubber band thing on the this latest prototype, and it's no good- we're also learning about dyeing the plastic so that we can offer black or blue ones as well as white). It's a process. The latest thing is that we're going to be trying a positive/ compression spring around the cable and see how that works as well.

Great news on the second prototype, however- we have succeeding in making it a fully slip-on and snap-on device. The base slips under the lever and then can be secured into place with a set screw, and the cap snaps on the top and has a small screw for anchoring the cable. Very cool stuff.

Here are some pics of the latest model to keep you hyped:


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Awesome!


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## frambo (Jan 10, 2011)

Awesome! Would an RLC version ever be conceivable though??


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Read the rest of the thread! He is not going to attempt the much harder fitment of the RLC. I have both and will try to adapt his final version and he invited other to try. It will be hard as the compression adjustment ring will be in the way,


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Hey guys- I'm not opposed to figuring something out for the RLC, it's just not been our focus. Our first step is to figure this one out, make sure it works well and provide a solution, then we can engineer other stuff from there. The RLC would definitely require pulling off the top cap, unless we made a break in the back wall and counted on the flexibility of the plastic to get around the compression dial. Then, we'd have to tweak the topcap a bit- this isn't undoable, just second on the priority list. We're both guys with full time jobs and families and whatnot, so this is also dependent a bit on when we can work on things, get out to ride (being winter), etc, etc. 

Super excited about the ideas and hope we can offer something of value to folks- if the demand is there, and the RL product works well, we'll definitely put something out for RLC's as well.


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## hsolorza (Nov 29, 2010)

Really, really, really cool. Looking forward to getting the kit on my bike. Great work.


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## ianblaster (May 28, 2010)

Just replying to let you know that there is more interest in your product. Looking good!


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## young skywalker (Mar 30, 2007)

Bump: Float 80RL


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Latest on the lockout...*

Hey folks- just wanted to keep you posted again. Here is a video of the latest rendition. It's working and fully functional, but we are not satisfied with how reliable it will be over time (this has been a few rides with no issues). We still feel like a compression spring system would work better, and are reversing the design a bit and designing a better cable clamp system that can withstand the forces of a stronger spring (the current version strips if not careful). Again, we want to make something that will be bomber and last... Mostly just posting this to keep folks interested and invite more feedback. This is running with a Rock Shox Pushloc remote.


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## hsolorza (Nov 29, 2010)

Incredible progress! Can't wait for the black version. Congratulations


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

They can make a white version and we can make them any color we want.


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## ds33gt (Nov 14, 2010)

I'd be interested in one for my camber, it has a rl 29 on it....


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## doralswheels (Jan 14, 2007)

I'd buy a few for some of my bikes. Let me know how to purchase. Thanks


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## charborne (Feb 22, 2011)

Got an eta and price on these? I'm keen


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

ETA is realistically April or May. We're moving a little more slowly now than we were a month or so ago- just life getting in the way... Price is going to be somewhere around $30-35.


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## ianblaster (May 28, 2010)

What is going to be included? I am assuming I have to supply my own remote and cable.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Yes- it will be the base cap, top cap, spring and cable-securing screws. We've not been able to find any great deals on remotes and I don't have the money to stock up on a bunch of them at retail costs, so cable and remote lever will need to be supplied by the user. I'll send some links of some relatively cheap RS PushLoc levers I've found (@ $30).


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## deano machineo (Dec 20, 2009)

:thumbsup:
Love it. I'll buy one. Good job.


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## doralswheels (Jan 14, 2007)

I'll take 6 kits. Do you take paypal?


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Can I pay now to be first on line???


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## doralswheels (Jan 14, 2007)

yourdaguy said:


> Can I pay now to be first on line???


Looks like your #3, cause there is one person before me.:nono:


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Thanks, Gents, but no pre-orders . We are super psyched about the positive responses, which is all the more reason we want this thing to actually work well before sending it out/ around. I busted one on the trail the other day and that sent us back to more design. It'll come, and I'll let y'all know when they're ready 

Out to the garage to work on it now...


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## NitroRC Ed (Feb 27, 2010)

Another interested party :thumbsup:


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## jsquid (Oct 23, 2006)

And another. Got my eyes on this thread...


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## deef (Feb 12, 2008)

Hello Bikers,
After 2 years bussey building a home etc, I`m at this moment working at a small series Deef Fox Remote Lockouts. 
They are improved, lighter, better and when you want something special:
I`ve made also a new and light left knob for the fox fork.
Normally this knob from fox is bleu. But when you don`t have bleu color on your bike, red, black or dark gray is much better!! 
It`s also a little bit lighter.
When the kits are ready I will post it here. Before everything is ready, I'll post some photo's.

The color for the lock knob you can choose, Fox bleu, Black, Dark Grey.
The total Deef kit is lighter than the original Fox lockout!

_(you don`t have to drill holes for my lockout, and therefore it`s not a problem for warranty)
(The spring is in the inside, so it`s more hufter proof and easier too clean)_

I`ve also made some other Deef products, light topcaps, 2end bottle holder for an Scott Spark etc.(I`ll post some pics soon.)


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

@Deef:

That is great news! As you can see, I've been trying to pick up the slack while you were busy elsewhere, but if you have a product that's good to go and offers a durable solution at a reasonable price, then I'm all for it. I mostly just wanted a solution to be available (and not one that was going to cost as much as Fox's aftermarket solution). 

We'd all love to see pics asap and let us know more about when they're available, etc. You can see that this forum has been pretty lively, but I've also posted a few other places and there are lots of responses there also, and I have had quite a few PM's from folks as well. There's definitely a market!

Looking forward to seeing what you've put together. As much as I'd like to be your competition, I'd rather be out riding, spending time with the family, and, um, riding some more .


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## G-FOURce (Aug 21, 2010)

alshead, i am in there like swimwear when you make the leap from concept to production. i'll keep checking back to see where you are with the development. two snaps up in a z formation for you!


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## etch (Mar 22, 2011)

Hi new to this site and stumbled across this thread , i made a remote lockout for my RL fox forks and thought i would share it with you this has been on my Anthem for around 3 months and works like a dream.........using the rockshox lockout idea and a poploc i converted the fox lever by removing the lug and machining a aluminium ring to press fit around it ,then added a cable guide piece.......it returns via a torsion spring situated under the lockout ....(you dont want exposed springs which can get caught or full of dirt!) i have added a couple of pics and will add a video of the lockout working when i can.


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## etch (Mar 22, 2011)

Link to video as promised


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Sahweet!*



etch said:


> Link to video as promised


Etch- that thing looks awesome. How did you run the internal spring? I'd love to see the system- it looks like there could be some warranty issues, but still, sweet design and I'm sure people would be willing to overlook the possible warranty issues to have a solid solution.

Is this something you can produce a kit for and sell it? Obviously, there's a lot of interest. Looks like your setup could also maybe work with an RLC, but I'd have to see more of what's going on under the cap. I have three poploc remotes to sell if you want to try producing a few for folks.

I honestly think that what you have there is a much more solid solution than what we were working on. I'm also still very curious to see what Deef put together. Let's get one of these things out to the market and help make people happy!


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

@Deef: Stop teasing. Do you have something to show us?


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

I don't have no stinking warranty issues. Both my Fox's are out of warranty anyway. I am interested in either system that can be marketable. etch, did you weld the cable stop on the back of the fork? If so, is there a way around that?


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## andyaustin (May 11, 2007)

*Mongo want!*

Me want. Where can buy? Me have paypal (and a woody)


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## etch (Mar 22, 2011)

alshead ...dont think there will be any warranty issues as it can all be removed and the original manual lever refitted if required......the torsion spring needs to fixed in two positions one in the underneath of the top cap and the other fixing made so that the spring does not just rotate without tensioning the spring ......i did this by making a bush which is pressed over the central shaft you can see when the topcap is removed.
I tried to make several topcaps from aluminium stock but the octagonal shape in the center is quite hard to get right thats why i ended up using the original topcap .
I would have to look how much it would cost to get topcaps made now i have all the dimensions......the springs are less than a pound and i paid £26 for the poploc and cable i really didnt think there would be a market for this! just wanted to convert mine cuz i have some rockshox remote lockout forks on my other bike and wanted the same for my Anthem.
I suppose price of machined topcaps would be dependant on volume.
Yourdaguy......the cable stop is not welded to the fork it is held in place with a taper locking bush which fits up inside the steerer tube.........the type that holds front mudguards in place


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## Rod (Oct 17, 2007)

That looks awesome and I would love to have one. If you guys get something for the market send me a pm.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

PM hell! Subscribe to the thread and they will announce. These guys are too busy inventing to send every interested party a PM


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## michaelsnead (Aug 31, 2005)

yourdaguy said:


> PM hell! Subscribe to the thread and they will announce. These guys are too busy inventing to send every interested party a PM


Ok, I'm subscribed!

Thanks,

Michael:thumbsup:


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## robothack (Mar 27, 2011)

Hi all forum Users

Alshead and Deef You have done very interesting projects. I am also currently working on implementing the concept of remote control for my Fox. But there is one problem. Most of the homemade construction is based on the use of RockShox Pop Lock shifters. But this is an effective pitch shifter links 17 mm. In this position, the Fox lockout lever fork IMHO seems to be too strong compression, especially for XC riding. Full turn Fox lockout lever is about 50 mm and shifters RockShox Pop lock is not able to handle it. Have You ever wondered how to solve this problem?


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

robothack: according to the Fox manual the lever does basically nothing for most of its travel. It completely locks in the last 5 mm or so. It is not a variable lever. It is either on or off. Basically you only partially open it from the locked position but this has no effect on performance. I believe this was mentioned earlier in this thread.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Yes- the Fox lever is either on or off (no increase in compression or anything like that in a Rock Shox- the lockout is actually a lockout). The swing to get it to open is less than 15mm- often less than 90 degrees from lockout.


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

etch said:


> Hi new to this site and stumbled across this thread , i made a remote lockout for my RL fox forks and thought i would share it with you this has been on my Anthem for around 3 months and works like a dream.........using the rockshox lockout idea and a poploc i converted the fox lever by removing the lug and machining a aluminium ring to press fit around it ,then added a cable guide piece.......it returns via a torsion spring situated under the lockout ....(you dont want exposed springs which can get caught or full of dirt!) i have added a couple of pics and will add a video of the lockout working when i can.


Why does the rebound knob turn with the lockout?


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## robothack (Mar 27, 2011)

I have a fork Fox 32 F-Series RL 120 Trawel produced at the end of 2009. Change the location of the lockout lever will increase compression and rotate the lever clockwise Fully lockout the fork.
yourdaguy: According to the Fox manual

"... the blue compression lockout lever is located below the red rebound adjuster knob. It Allows the rider to close the compression damping circuit in the fork. This keeps the fork at the top of its travel, making it harder to compress. Rotate Fully clockwise the lever to lockout the fork ... "

There is a need to Fox lockout lever could move about 180 degrees but it is difficult to implement.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

@Robothack: I've never seen this to be true. The only compression adjustment on the 32mm Fox forks are on RLC's and RLT's and it's a separate dial. I imagine there might be some minor bit where the valve isn't all the way released and it might affect the compression a little, but if you look at the internals of these forks, you'll see what I mean.


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## etch (Mar 22, 2011)

the-one1.......the rebound dial turns with the lockout because of thre spring arrangement i use underneath the lockout, this does not effect the rebound in any way as you basically set the rebound as you would with the lockout off and your not using rebound when the forks are locked out.
Robothack...there is no compression setting on the RL fork......The RLC fork does have compression setting and has a seperate dial for this underneath the lockout lever.
I have found that on the RL fork the lockout lever needs very little movement to go between on/off lockout..........less than 15degrees of movement so the rockshox poploc levers are ideal for this purpose ,like i have said i have been using my lockout system for the last 3months without any problems.


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## frambo (Jan 10, 2011)

Wow... a lot of things seem to have been changed since I last checked!

Anyone have any ideas for an RLC version yet?

Also I'm based in the UK and I'm sure there would be a lot of interest over here- I have friends Stateside you could post to and I could receive on this end.


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## robothack (Mar 27, 2011)

Alshead in my fork so it works. Change the location of the lockout lever Will Increase compression and rotate the lever clockwise Fully lockout the fork. In this position, is completely blocked.
Yes, the RLC's and RLT's have a separate dial, but it is adjusting the Low-Speed ​​Compression it is similar to ProPedal function.
Soon I should finish my project so I will tell how it works.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Manual?*



robothack said:


> Alshead in my fork so it works. Change the location of the lockout lever Will Increase compression and rotate the lever clockwise Fully lockout the fork. In this position, is completely blocked.
> Yes, the RLC's and RLT's have a separate dial, but it is adjusting the Low-Speed Compression it is similar to ProPedal function.
> Soon I should finish my project so I will tell how it works.


I'm not trying to be a contrarian, but I just don't think that's how the fork is designed. You mentioned earlier that it says something about it in your manual/ instructions. All of Fox's manuals/ instructions are online and there's nothing in there about the blue lever on an RL serving as a compression damping lever- only lockout (http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/09/Eng/2009_OM_eng.htm).

I am aware that between fully locked out and about 90 degrees open, there might be some "sense" of compression, but I don't think it serves to moderate compression otherwise.


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## robothack (Mar 27, 2011)

According to the Fox manual page 74 http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/09/PDF/2009EnglishOM.pdf

"... the blue compression lockout lever is located below the red rebound adjuster knob. It Allows the rider to close the compression damping circuit in the fork. This keeps the fork at the top of its travel, *making it harder to compress*. Rotate Fully clockwise the lever to lockout the fork ... "


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Locked out= harder to compress.*



robothack said:


> According to the Fox manual page 74 http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/09/PDF/2009EnglishOM.pdf
> 
> "... the blue compression lockout lever is located below the red rebound adjuster knob. It Allows the rider to close the compression damping circuit in the fork. This keeps the fork at the top of its travel, *making it harder to compress*. Rotate Fully clockwise the lever to lockout the fork ... "


Again, not trying to be argumentative- but I read this as "WHEN you close the compression damping circuit (meaning, locked out), it keeps the fork at the top of its travel."

Both the way I read it, and from my experience riding many Fox forks and overhauling probably 50 of them, the blue lever does not have a graduated effect on the damping circuit. It is locked out or not locked out. Again, totally open to being wrong, but this is my experience and my understanding of how this circuit works.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

FWIW, the remote kit throws the lever either on or off. No adjustable compression. I know this doesn't "prove" anything... I'm just sayin'


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## robothack (Mar 27, 2011)

According to my subjective feelings (I have no way to measure it  ) for me it works like this


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

robothack if you look at the parts of the fork taken apart it would be apparent that your impressions are not true. The way it works the port is either open or closed and it only closes in the last few degrees. Your picture could be right at 70% and lockout, because right before the port is closed, it is partially blocked. The 30 and 50 % areas are no compression areas.


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## deef (Feb 12, 2008)

Update: almost al the parts are ready. Including a new type cap for the air valve!
Soon there will be pictures.
My lockout is working on a smaller radius. So when you use the RS lever there is enough rotation for full unlock/no compression.


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## robothack (Mar 27, 2011)

Hi Bikers i finished my project version 1 a remote lockout for my Fox 32 F 120 RL fork. Conception is based on the rockshox poploc lockout, modified the Fox blue compression lockout lever by hole for cable and cable bolt nut, the hole for the spring and modified rope handle and spring from Manitou MILO Adjuster Knob Kit. The torsion spring situated under the lockout lever. The system operates satisfactorily but i discussed earlier this is an effective pitch shifter links 17 mm and in this position, the Fox lockout lever fork IMHO seems to be too strong compression for XC. Perhaps in the next version of the system will operate in full adjustment needed.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

@ Robothack: Looks awesome- I'd love to see a picture of the spring setup inside. I liked your graphic, but I agree with @yourdaguy. I think there is some partial closing that you can feel between 75-100% (90 degrees, FWIW), but beyond 75% (I'd say more like 80% on my forks), there is no effective compression. The port is open.

@yourdaguy: Yeah- what he said 

@Deef: Looking forward to it! Will your design work with an RLC? You're going to have a lot of interested folks if you can price them right.

@Everyone else: I have two remote lockout levers (Rockshox Poploc) for sale if you want to try your own tinkering...


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

FWIW- from Eric at PUSH:

_The Float RL has rebound and lockout. The lockout lever only needs to be moved about 90 degrees to engage the lockout. There is no external compression control on the RL model. The RLC model adds the external low speed compression as well as a threshold adjust for your lockout.

Eric M.
PUSH Info
1520 Taurus Court
Loveland, CO 80537
ph. (970) 278-1110 ext.308
www.pushindustries.com_


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## robothack (Mar 27, 2011)

Alshead my patented (license  GPL) spring system is very simple. I used 22 mm seger ring to attach the spring and control its forces. I made a hole in the lever for the spring. The hard part is selecting the diameter of the spring and its strength but this problem can be partially offset seger ring. I'll do a few more shots of the interior soon. How does it work? Review the film.


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## andyaustin (May 11, 2007)

My 2010 RL locks out with within 1/4"-1/8" movement. The whole lockout moves 90+ degrees but it has no affect for 90% of the rotation. It's just a very small rotation (10 degrees?) that the shock goes from full suspension to complete lockout.


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## etch (Mar 22, 2011)

Alshead........i will post pics of my torsion spring setup when i can but it is very simple basically you need to first press a bush over the central shaft you can see when you remove the lockout lever this is a split bush and is made so the outside dia is a tight fit so when you push it on it contracts the inner hole dia to clamp it tight around the shaft(hope this makes sense) this bush has a hole in it to hold one end of the torsion spring , i made my bush from aluminium but i am experimenting with a plastic one at the moment. the other end of the torsion spring is held by drilling a hole on the underside of the lockout lever.
The spring itself is very simple i had many attempts at making a spring and eventually found you only need a one coil spring, it needs to be left wound as the lockout revolves in a clockwise direction and the spring has a dia of 18mm approx. (1.2mm wire dia)
The rest of my setup you can see in my video in previous post , like i say i will post pics of the spring and split bush when i can.........i also think you need a cable guide round the lockout to locate the cable properley and it looks better.
My personal feelings is that anyone who has access to a lathe/workshop can produce a lockout that will work for them......i have no interest in producing these to sell but will help anyone who needs pics /dimensions etc to have a go at making their own.
I have "field tested" my setup now for three months without any issues .


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## Matte X.0 (Oct 4, 2008)

Do you think that is possible to use the same method on a RLC removing the compression bezel? (Obviously once that is properly set!)


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

@ Robothack: Thanks- yes, I've seen the video, but I would love to see the internals. I don't totally understand how you have the seger ring situated.

@ Etch: Nice- same thing- I'd like to see the internals. I agree about the topcap routing, but don't think it's necessary. Now we just need to find someone on this forum who has access to a lathe/ workshop who wants to mass-produce some of this stuff. That guy's not me .

@ Matte X.0: The way these guys have it set up, it should work on an RLC- when you take the blue lever off, there's still a bunch of space below to put in a bushing or Seger ring (though I don't totally understand how that one works).


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## robothack (Mar 27, 2011)

Alshead unfortunately, I do not have pictures yet but the idea is really simple. Seger ring is placed under the Blue Fox lockout lever using special pliers. Elastic properties of seger ring cause it to block inside. Using these pliers can seger ring turn to set the spring force. Sieger ring has two holes one of them I use to attach the torsion spring whose other end is anchored in a hole made in ​​lockout lever.


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## etch (Mar 22, 2011)




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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Can you provide links to places to buy the parts so we get the correct sizes, etc.?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Etch- thanks. The Seger ring you're showing has tabs on the outside, which makes more sense as to how you got it to stick inside the topcap. Thanks for showing that.

Yourdaguy- he said earlier it was a 22mm Seger ring- now we just need some info on the spring...


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## frambo (Jan 10, 2011)

Etch are you in the UK?

If so if you've got spare equipment then I'd be happy to buy some off you- don't really have much time to fiddle but have got a RLC fork and your method seems to be the only one that could work with an RLC setup. 

Is there any chance you could test it on a RLC fork and that way I can know if its feasible to begin work on a setup. 

Cheers, Fram


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## robothack (Mar 27, 2011)

Seger ring shown in Etch's picture is outer ring. He must have an internal diameter of around 13-14 mm. I applied the inner ring. He has an external diameter of 22 mm just like in this picture


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Etch and Robothack- I don't mean to be difficult, but a picture of your internals would be worth a thousand threads. You guys are confusing- partly because there seems to be some bit of a language barrier. 

Robothack- what do you mean outer ring? You applied the inner ring? Where? really, just show us some pictures...


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## robothack (Mar 27, 2011)

I mean that the seger inner (internal) ring is used inside the tube while the outer (external) ring, such as Etch, might apply to a cylinder. The real photo soon.


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## lampee (Apr 12, 2011)

Is there any solution fo rlc/rlt shocks? I have one and it is really pain in the ass to reach down and turn the knob.


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## frambo (Jan 10, 2011)

lampee said:


> Is there any solution fo rlc/rlt shocks? I have one and it is really pain in the ass to reach down and turn the knob.


+1

I had a rockshox recon before with remote- and it is indeed a pain.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

I don't see why a design like etch's - with the cable routed behind the fork- couldnt work on an rlc.


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## Rootar (Mar 28, 2011)

any news on the final versions alshead?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Deef- seriously. You started this thread in 2008 promising a product that nobody ever saw again, then you show up a month or so ago and say you've got something even better coming out, then you go quiet again. The masses are getting restless...


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## frambo (Jan 10, 2011)

Absolutely, I'm really getting restless! Keep us in the loop man! Give us some sort of info!


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## fish2live (Mar 9, 2009)

ya, this is something we'll all need to just do ourselves I think, waiting is killing us but these guys are probably busy.... SO, I'm trying to get this done.. and I'll document part numbers used and URL to buy them on-line along with pictures of the build as it comes together - it's going on a Klein Palomino XX with Fox F120RL model year 2009.

So far I have purchased:
1) Manitou MILO remote parts (this is hard to fit on top of the fork leg, needs modification)
2) A 22mm Seeger Ring (Snap Ring) that I need to see if it fits inside the shaft and doesn't spin
3) 4 different variations of Torsion springs coming in the mail today that I'll need to modify

I hope this works!!


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

@fish2live- let us know how it goes and where you ordered your stuff from. I've tried finding Seeger rings locally and keep striking out.


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## fish2live (Mar 9, 2009)

I've bought everything so far from www.grainger.com. The 22mm Seeger (snap) ring had to be filed down a slight bit on the inner part (by the holes) as it was getting hung up in the slot for the small bearings used by the blue lockout ring. I don't have torsion springs yet, they are shipping from Granger and hope to see them today... and I'll need to see which one works (or not) and if I have to modify it. There is still quite a bit more work to do on this puppy...

More to come as parts arrive but it will still be at least a week until I can get this rolling...


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## fish2live (Mar 9, 2009)

one torsion spring arrived yesterday, 3 others are back ordered, crap... its the right diameter for sure, so that's good.. but its too tall so I'll need to cut it in half about, then bend the ends vertical... it seems to have about the right torque now with about 10 coils, but with torsion springs the fewer the # of coils the stronger (more torque) it takes to turn them, so hopefully making this shorter, to about 4 coils, doesn't make it too hard to turn... trial and error I guess.. more to come..


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## deef (Feb 12, 2008)

Here is a photo from the complete new CNC 5-axis milled aluminum parts.
Some other part like springs screw etc are not ready.
The aluminum parts are getting at this moment nice colors by anodizing.

You can also see the knob for the left side of the fox fork. So you dont need bleu parts on your bike from now!!


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

When I clicked on the link and saw the picture of the parts my face got a big smile on it. Since I have been on this thread since the beginning, can I be the first to order 2 sets?


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## doralswheels (Jan 14, 2007)

You still can't be first because "deano machineo" is first and i am second ( i want 6 in blue).


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## Channel_Z_NL (Jan 9, 2011)

Looks great Deef :thumbsup: 

Made in Holland  

You got a PM via mountainbike.nl

Hope to see the finished product soon


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## fish2live (Mar 9, 2009)

wow, that looks amazing - I'm giving up on my custom project now!!!! 

How much $ Deef?? will it include the cable and remote lever?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Very bling- love it. Same here- no need to proceed with my own project at this point- this looks great (as long as it's also affordable). I recently did the Internal Retaining Ring w/ Spring mod and it works great on my SS, but this would be perfect for my FS rig.

1) I'd love to see it in action.
2) What colors are going to be available?
3) How much and what's included (and can you pick and choose sets?)
4) Timeline? 

Nice work.


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## PCRover (Nov 24, 2008)

Wow! Those parts look great. Put me down for a few when they become available.


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## frambo (Jan 10, 2011)

And now that you appear to have mastered this maybe you could consider work for a RLC!?

LOOKS AMAZING!


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## aTomOfAllTrades (Apr 22, 2010)

I'm in too, just need some pricing and lead time information. It'd be great to get some action shots/video up regardless so the masses can see how well it works.


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## deef (Feb 12, 2008)

Weight Deef parts 13.34 gram, poplockk 54.4 gram.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Love the logo on the level. Please start selling these!!!


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## B!LL (Sep 21, 2005)

I want to buy one set too...


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## hsolorza (Nov 29, 2010)

Deef, 
The parts look exquisite! Like everyone else, how do I buy? Just ordered the TwinLock for it from Scott. 

Al, 
Thanks for keeping the dialogue going all these months since last December. You demonstrated that there is still a big demand. You did us all a great service when back then this thread had gone dead.


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## fish2live (Mar 9, 2009)

where do I sent my PayPal?  How much?


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## deef (Feb 12, 2008)

Hello,
there are at this moment 3 complete kits not yet reserved.
The complete kit with poplock lever will cost 150,- euro (without shipping cost)
The red knob will cost 20,- euro.

If you want a kit, you can send a private message on this forum.
I`ll send back an email when I reserve a kit for you.

Thanks,
Dave


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

...


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*DIY Tutorial for Remote Lockout*

Okay- those parts are SCHWEEET! No doubt that's about the best solution we've seen yet. HOWEVER, the price is a little steep for this fella. 150 Euro is $213 US as of today and that's before shipping. I'm sure that they'll sell to a few, select, elite folks (the same guys who buy ti bolts for their water bottle cages), but I don't think it's going to reach a broad market. Fox used to sell a kit that was really nice for $150 and I thought that was too much...

SOOOO- for anyone who's interested, I've put together a little DIY blog tutorial to help folks figure out/ get started on making your own lockout. You can do this for less than $50 and less than $10 if you have an old top-mount lever sitting around. If you've been following this thread, you know I was working on a solution earlier in the winter, but the system was having some problems (breaking) and we bailed on it. Many ideas in my current configuration are borrowed from other folks on this thread like Yourdaguy, Etch and Robothack (thanks, gents). My DIY tutorial is by no means the _right_ way to do it, or the only way, but I wanted to put _something_ together that would show the whole process and how it goes together.

For some reason, I can't post a direct link to the blog, so go to www.alshub.com and in the upper right, click on the "DIY Fox Remote Lockout." There are some parts/ pieces that I haven't figured out (especially for RLC users), so I'm very open for suggestions and will change/ update the blog as necessary so we can have a DIY tutorial that will really work for folks.

Enjoy!


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Anyone understand how Deef's spring system works internally? I can't make hide nor hair of how it secures inside...


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## doralswheels (Jan 14, 2007)

alshead. Why not use a small spring about 2" long between the cable housing stop and the lock-out lever. A spring type like the one you used to cut your spring out of only smaller in diamater. I am using a Fox lock-out lever on the handlebars and it has an automatic stop, once you push the lever. If the spring i sugested works, it will try to close the gap between the cable stop and the lock-out lever. What do you think?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

@ Doralswheels: It's an awesome idea. If you go back to page 2 of this thread, you'll see that I was playing with lots of ideas/ setups for a few months last winter. I had a setup that was exactly what you're talking about- I had a compression spring (slid over the cable) between the cable stop and lever. There were a few problems with this- the most problematic is that, as the forks come from the factory, there is sometimes a bit of "stiction" when the lockout lever is pulled/pushed into the lockout position with some force (essentially, the little washer/ seal that creates the lockout by sealing off ports at the bottom of the damper builds up surface tension, and therefore needs some pressure to release- lots of places [PUSH, really good shops, etc] will actually take a super light sandpaper and wetsand the surface of this seal so that it breaks that tension easier)- so... the spring has to be pretty strong, while at the same time being small, able to compress/ extend enough to push the lever 90 degrees, not buckle on compression, nimble enough to curve naturally around the lever without binding the cable with friction, and not break/ move the cable stop (in whatever form). This can definitely be done, but I did not find that the spring with that magic combination in my tooling around. The torsion spring works great has the bonus of being a little more elegant. If you look at some of the solutions by others on youtube, you'll see some that are like what you're describing- some with a rubber-ish compression system of some sort. I think those are also compelling, but I don't know where to get those pieces/ parts (e.g., 



 



. If we can find where to buy that stuff or what to tell people to look for, I'll include it in the tutorial as another option.

I have no interest in my way being the right way, I just want to share some ideas and come up with some relatively simple and relatively cheap (<$50? <$100?), but effective and reliable, possibly even elegant(?) solutions. $150 is too much to spend ($200 even moreso) when we could collectively come up with something that does it all and doesn't look like you just JB Welded or zip-tied a bunch of crap to your fork. Even better if it doesn't require too much technical expertise (which is what we were shooting for with our design- a "snap-on" setup of sorts.

Keep the ideas and the info coming.


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## dhairell (Jun 15, 2011)

I'm new to biking. I have was wondering if you had anything for a rockshox dart 3, or if anyone else makes something for it. Any ideas would be great. Thanks


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

I have a virtually no cost solution that has been working perfectly for over a week. I will post pictures later. Deef's stuff is nice, but it is too nice and costs way too much. Alshead has some good ideas, but the parts sourcing is sketchy. I wish Alshead would go into production on the plastic parts he had. They should be reasonably priced and work fine.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Just some double stick clear mounting tape on the top of the crown and 3 zip ties, a spring, and a used cable end.























The double stick mounting tape seems to grip harder over time so I am not expecting any problems with this setup long term. Not all that pretty, but not that ugly either considering this is my commuter bike.

The real good news about this solution is that it will work equally well for my RLC which is my next project as soon as I find another spring similar to this one I had laying around.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Just a follow up note. I have one of those 3rd hand tools that really gets the zip ties tight. If I didn't have one of these, I don't know if the zip ties would be tight enough to hold. Also, I obviously drilled the end of the blue Fox lever in order to pass the cable through. The cable housing is the stock cable that came with the pop-lock and has a fairly substantial metal end on it that is most of an inch long. I put the cable housing on the tape and put 2 very tight zip ties on it with the 3rd hand. I then depressed the pop-lock and moved the lever to the lockout position with the spring on the cable. I drilled the end out of the aluminum cable crimp thingy so the cable could slide through.

With the lever in the lockout position and the pop-lock depressed and the spring compressed, I pulled all the slack out of the cable and crimped the aluminum dohicky a few times and then cut the cable at the end of the dohicky with my trusty Park cable cutter. This done, there was enough slack that the fork would not lock out completely. I was able to pull very hard on the cable housing to move it slightly to the perfect position so that everything worked just right. I then put a 3rd zip tie over the other 2 again with a 3rd hand tool to totally lock down the position.


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## Gokart2 (Jun 8, 2009)

Now thats amazing^^ KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID never fit so well. That should work no problem on my RLC, but I got another idea. 3M makes this extremely strong "velcro lock" stuff I seen/used when I bought an ipass, when I lived in IL. The sticky side was super strong on the window/ipass device, as well as the "velcro" part stuck together amazingly well. A cable guide on the top sticky end might make it a lil cleaner looking, but with basically the same design. Great job, yourdaman!


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

I actually have some of the velcro you are talking about and for this application I feel the stuff I used works better and is less noticeable since it is clear. However, the velcro would probably work too. I rode around the driveway tonight and set and released it 50-75 times and it still works great.


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## Gokart2 (Jun 8, 2009)

They make the 3M Dual-lock in clear, and they have a bunch of different levels of stiction for bothe the "velcro" side and the sticky tape side. I'm gonna machine a small piece of aluminum for the cable clamp. I THINK the Dual-lock will hold the aluminum better then regular 2 sided sticky tape. So basically dual-lock stuck to the fork, then the aluminum cable clamp on that. I think it'll be pretty clean looking. I need a poploc though. U think the adjustable one would help with fine tuning? I'm not too sure it would...?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

This is great, guys- yourdaguy- you definitely have a simple solution. I had something very similar setup, but after about 2-3 weeks on the trail (again, on pretty abusive, rocky mountain trails- not commuting), the cable started to slip all the time- when you described that there was too much slack in the cable and then you pulled the housing back and it's been better- that was the problem I started to have EVERY ride (if not several times). It's a decent patchwork solution, but for bumpy terrain, I think it'll start to have issues over time. I love the simplicity, but there's also no adjustability for cable stretch and the like (e.g., housing often beds into the cable ferrules over time, requiring adjustment). The other issue I had with this exact same setup was the spring. If I had a spring that was strong enough to push the lever back, it was so strong when compressed that it was moving that housing just enough to change the slack in the cable and make the system not work. Maybe you found a spring with the "magic spot" tension, but I didn't. 

Not sure what you mean by the parts sourcing is sketchy- other than the cable stop piece, everything was from a hardware or automotive store. I wish our plastic stuff was good enough to sell, but we just had too many problems with the setups we tried and I didn't want to sell you guys some stuff only to have it break a few weeks later. I now have a new baby and no time to spend on this project, but maybe I'll try to find a machinist to do something with it next winter...


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

oh yeah- and, again, SOME fox forks are pretty sticky in the initial release from lockout. The seal on the damper gets a little stiction and needs a good deal of force to release- not all forks, but some- mine happened to be one, and that's part of why I needed a pretty strong spring to make it work...


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Can anyone make sense of how Deef's system works internally? There appears to be a ring that sits down in the shaft and has a spring attached to the lockout cap, but I can't tell how it secures in place internally... thinking about talking to a machinist and finding out what this wold cost to develop...


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Alshead, the unavailability of the plastic piece was what I was referring to in the "sketchy parts" remark. In my comments, I stressed the need for a 3rd hand tool. Mine is so tight that I can (and have) jerked on it pretty hard with no movement. As low pressure as my system is, I don't foresee much stretch. If it does stretch, there is actually extra length in the released cable that it would take an even longer spring to push out to. If I need to, I can put a small piece of a cut crimp thingy between the current one and the Fox lever taking up any slack. I was worried about reliability too and that is why I tested it and tried to be hard on it for a week before I posted it. I would bet money this will function reliably for a long time. I am the lucky one, my Fox lever takes very little pressure to move. I also have an RLC which I am going to do this to pending a spring.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Deef's part fits around the 6 sides of the head cap and there is a screw to clamp it down. You can see the screw below the cable stop. The cable stop only has to stop the cable housing because the positive pressure of the cable will hold it against the cable stop. It is like a cable stop seat clamp that some use on cross bikes.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

yourdaguy said:


> Alshead, the unavailability of the plastic piece was what I was referring to in the "sketchy parts" remark. In my comments, I stressed the need for a 3rd hand tool. Mine is so tight that I can (and have) jerked on it pretty hard with no movement. As low pressure as my system is, I don't foresee much stretch. If it does stretch, there is actually extra length in the released cable that it would take an even longer spring to push out to. If I need to, I can put a small piece of a cut crimp thingy between the current one and the Fox lever taking up any slack. I was worried about reliability too and that is why I tested it and tried to be hard on it for a week before I posted it. I would bet money this will function reliably for a long time. I am the lucky one, my Fox lever takes very little pressure to move. I also have an RLC which I am going to do this to pending a spring.


Awesome. Your setup definitely worked better than my similar one. And I agree about the sketchiness of the cable stop piece- it's not a great solution which is why we never really sold them or pursued that project further


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## Gokart2 (Jun 8, 2009)

Alshead, u still have those poplocs for sale?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

yourdaguy said:


> Deef's part fits around the 6 sides of the head cap and there is a screw to clamp it down. You can see the screw below the cable stop. The cable stop only has to stop the cable housing because the positive pressure of the cable will hold it against the cable stop. It is like a cable stop seat clamp that some use on cross bikes.


That part I get. What I don't understand is the spring system. There are round pieces w grooves and screw holes that look like they sit down inside the fork assembly - like where the internal retaining ring and spring are in my setup - but I dint understand how it stays in place...


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Gokart2 said:


> Alshead, u still have those poplocs for sale?


No sir. Yourdaguy bought em a while back


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

I believe he has a circular spring inside the cap since his cap is bigger than stock.


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## hsolorza (Nov 29, 2010)

Has anyone heard from Deef regarding his kits? He isn't responding to his PMs for several months. Alshead, for us non technical guys have you decided to not create your kits?


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Read the thread. Deef made exactly 4 kits and sold them for over $200 each.


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## hsolorza (Nov 29, 2010)

So yourdaguy, how have you been corresponding with him? For us non technical people there doesn't seem to be many alternatives.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

I haven't been corresponding with him. I am not a technical person as far as making parts. I am just an improviser.

My method requires not a single part be made. Buy a pop-lock, zip ties, mounting tape, a spring and a cable thingie.

Tools: small drill bit, drill, cable cutter, 3rd hand tool, blade or scissors to cut the tape.

I realize that not everyone has a 3rd hand tool or a cable cutter, but if you can't borrow them then possibly a buddy or a bike shop could do the actual labor. Maybe the next time you are at the trail, you can bring a picture and try to talk some of your buddies into helping you.

I am not selling anything, I am just a problem solver. I waited over 2 years on Deef to come up with a solution and when he didn't solve my problem, I solved it myself. I think Deef's parts are really nice and would be very happy to buy them at a reasonable price, but they are not available so we have to improvise.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Interest is high*



yourdaguy said:


> I believe he has a circular spring inside the cap since his cap is bigger than stock.


I don't know if I'm being dense, but I still don't get it. There are four parts shown in the picture. One is a topcap for the air side, another is a cable stop (that can't be used on an RLC/ RLT), then there's a lockout lever- this replaces the blue lockout lever- then there's a fourth piece- I assume this is some sort of anchor for the spring, but I don't understand what it secures to and how it "anchors". I'm trying to figure this out because I might put some more effort into designing something that doesn't cost $200+.



hsolorza said:


> Has anyone heard from Deef regarding his kits? He isn't responding to his PMs for several months. Alshead, for us non technical guys have you decided to not create your kits?


We bailed on our kits- the plastic that they were being made out of is super light and pretty strong, but simply not strong enough. We might still try to pursue something and I'll keep folks posted- there is obviously some interest and demand- if we could put something out for sub $60, seems like it could be a great solution... we'll see. Anyone know any machinists?



hsolorza said:


> So yourdaguy, how have you been corresponding with him? For us non technical people there doesn't seem to be many alternatives.





yourdaguy said:


> I haven't been corresponding with him. I am not a technical person as far as making parts. I am just an improviser.
> 
> My method requires not a single part be made. Buy a pop-lock, zip ties, mounting tape, a spring and a cable thingie.
> 
> ...


FWIW- I was in touch with Deef for a couple of PM's about 5 weeks ago (May 7th)- I offered to do some distribution for him in the US- he could sell me 5-10 at a discounted price and I would sell them here, etc-- that was before he put a price tag on them- He said he sold his kits in Holland, so I'm sure SOME would sell here, but not likely to many on this forum . I know it's too rich for my blood.

I like yourdaguy's solution- simple, effective, cheap.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Deefs topcap appears to be taller than the stock one in the installed pictures. My guess is that that piece on the left sits under the top cap and holds the tension on a spring by securing to the fork cap below. Then the top cap and rebound adjuster are installed over it after preloading the spring.

I would pay $60 for Deefs parts, but that is not an option. I guess the main advantage my system has other than price and availability, is that it will work for an RLC too.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*I'm thick*

Okay- but HOW does it "secure to the fork cap below"? I'm not trying to be difficult, I truly just don't understand. There's nothing there to secure it to. There is a cylinder inside the hole, and nothing to secure it to... here's a picture of my internal retaining ring installed, but it shoes the inside of the topcap after the blue lockout lever and rebound knob are removed...


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Where you have your circlip, he has that piece. The topcap spins the brass colored part (the outer six sided part of it) and the red rebound adjuster spins the 2 flat sided part in the very center. The top cap has little bearings that run on the circle just outside the brass colored parts. That circle and all the rest is fixed. I hope you can generate some parts, because it would be nice if even the non-technical guys could do this.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Now I'm just laughing. Yes, I get that his piece goes where my circlip goes and I understand how the internals work... what I don't understand is HOW his piece anchors inside of there. See, the whole point of the circlip is to anchor the spring- as far as I can tell, if that's how his worked, it would just spin. How does it keep from spinning?


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

It looks like it is tapped for screws. The screws probably brace against the other metal parts in some manner.


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## 103 (May 7, 2009)

Here's what I came up with. Thanks to those that have been working on this topic for a while, I took a lot of the information found from this thread. I based my setup off the Fox/Shimano lever from the RP2 rear shock system. It doesn't pull/release that much cable (only about 1/4 inch) but I found that's all the fork lockout lever needs to release. I original started with a spring to put pressure on the lever to release, but found a piece of surgical tubing to work way better. Don't get any spring binding anymore. The bracket I fabricated with a strip of aluminum and added a little cable stop from the bike shop to hold the cable in place. Painted it black for aesthetics.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Good job 103!.

Just a few follow up notes. I drilled the first lever on the shock and I did my RLC yesterday and decided to drill it off the shock. One of those little ball bearings fell out and I spent 30 minutes looking for it. If you take the blue lever off, be very careful not to lose any of the bearings. Also, if you do take it off, I used a small dab of grease to hold the bearings in place and when I reattached it, it seemed to be silky smooth.

Also, I think I forgot to mention both of my blue levers are rotated one position in a clockwise direction from stock. In other words, my lever closes at the 7:00 o'clock position looking down from the bike. If you notice 103's pictures, that is the stock closing position 5:00 o'clock. This works without binding from the front position I am coming from. 103 solved the problem by coming from the rear. His solution is tidier looking but does require minimal fabrication.

Also, the pop-locks that alshead sold me were one left and one right. I have now used both of them and can verify that either position works with the stock cables on my medium Niners. Taller riders might need to have slightly longer cables in order not the have a lot bend. The one on the RLC has a slightly shorter, stronger spring and it is perfect. The original one on the RL works great, I am just saying there is a difference of springs and if yours is not working to your satisfaction, you might try a different spring. The one I likes was aprox. 1.5" long .2" diam. and fairly strong.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Nice work 103! Where did you get the strip if aluminum? I also realized one could use a star (more permanent) or compression nut (from a headset) to use as a plug for the bottom cable routing/ stop. Is that just standard surgical tubing? I tried some anklet rubber tubing when we were playing with different options, but it would bind and catch on the cable... Looks like the regular sized stuff would've done the trick. Bet you can get it in black . 

Yourdaguy- where'd you get your springs?


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

My local Ace Hardware has boxes of various size springs. I am certain I could find one like the ones I used, but I actually scrounged mine up from my work bench. I have bought similar springs at Ace in the past and if I had to do another one, I would have total confidence finding what I need there. Take you micrometer and get a spring that is 1.5" long and .2" diameter and fairly strong. The springs at Ace are rated by 3 numbers. The first is the length: you want inch and a half. The second is the diameter usually in 64ths or an inch: you want around 13/64 ths or slightly smaller. The 3rd number is the strength, I am not sure if it is in newtons, inch pounds or what, but go for a number around 30-35 or it might be .3-.35 I can't remember. Higher is stronger so just go for a number that starts with a 3.


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## 103 (May 7, 2009)

alshead said:


> Nice work 103! Where did you get the strip if aluminum? I also realized one could use a star (more permanent) or compression nut (from a headset) to use as a plug for the bottom cable routing/ stop. Is that just standard surgical tubing? I tried some anklet rubber tubing when we were playing with different options, but it would bind and catch on the cable... Looks like the regular sized stuff would've done the trick. Bet you can get it in black .


Got all the supplies from Ace Hardware and Pep Boys. I had to go with the rubber expansion plug since my headset is tapered. I don't think anyone makes a star nut big enough for the bottom of the steerer tube with is 1 3/8". Gonna test this setup for a month. If it works without any problems, I'll re-do the bracket to make it look cleaner, use blue surgical tubing and a anodized blue ferrell cap.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*1.5 star nut*



103 said:


> Got all the supplies from Ace Hardware and Pep Boys. I had to go with the rubber expansion plug since my headset is tapered. I don't think anyone makes a star nut big enough for the bottom of the steerer tube with is 1 3/8". Gonna test this setup for a month. If it works without any problems, I'll re-do the bracket to make it look cleaner, use blue surgical tubing and a anodized blue ferrell cap.


FWIW- they do make 1.5 star nuts. I also have a tapered steerer RLC and am going to try to mimic what you did for the housing, but with the retention ring and internal spring setup... I'll post when I get around to it.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*positioning of lockout lever*



yourdaguy said:


> Good job 103!.
> 
> Just a few follow up notes. I drilled the first lever on the shock and I did my RLC yesterday and decided to drill it off the shock. One of those little ball bearings fell out and I spent 30 minutes looking for it. If you take the blue lever off, be very careful not to lose any of the bearings. Also, if you do take it off, I used a small dab of grease to hold the bearings in place and when I reattached it, it seemed to be silky smooth.
> 
> ...


FWIW, the lockout levers can be moved, but they're not always going to be in the same position- the lockout is relative to how the entire damper assembly threaded in to your fork- This was part of the problem we encountered when trying our setup last winter- if you use an external spring, it was always going to be slightly different for different setups- great if you're doing it yourself, but not great if you're trying to sell a solution. Even when new forks come from the factory, they're at different places- one might be at 6 o'clock, one at 6:10, one at 5:45.... 7...

And, yes, I think I mentioned the same tips about the little ball bearings a while back- those things are impossible to find


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Alshead, I thought that might be the case since the position of my RL and RLC are different. So between any 2 forks there could be as much as 60 degrees of difference as to where the furthest clockwise the lock position will occur. Still I recommend the furthest possible clockwise position for using my method. I guess I just got lucky on the ball bearing find. They never came out when I took my RL apart and I kinda thought they might be slightly pressed in. As soon as I took my RLC apart, one popped out.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

^ I suppose it's less than 60 degrees since you can move the topcap/ lever- it sits on a hex piece, so you can adjust every 45 deg. Either way, it's part of why the retaining ring (and whatever Deef came up with, which I still don't totally understand) are great solutions, because you can adjust where the spring is anchored in rotation. I just picked up the aluminum, some snips and some surgical tubing at ACE and the compression/ expander from PepBoys- same parking lot. I have a 1.5 star nut on order from my LBS that I'll use when it comes in instead of the expander- has to be quite a bit lighter and maybe a little more secure... I'll update when I've set it up.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Wouldn't it be 60 degrees? 360 divided by 6. There are 360 degrees of rotation of the hex head and you can adjust in 60 degree increments. So if you rotated the hex anything less than 60 let's say 59 degrees there would still be no way to achieve the same position, but if you rotated it 60 degrees one movement on the hex would put you at the same place.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

yourdaguy said:


> Wouldn't it be 60 degrees? 360 divided by 6. There are 360 degrees of rotation of the hex head and you can adjust in 60 degree increments. So if you rotated the hex anything less than 60 let's say 59 degrees there would still be no way to achieve the same position, but if you rotated it 60 degrees one movement on the hex would put you at the same place.


My bad. I think it's actually an octagonal piece. So 45 deg increments.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Alshead, you picture in post 193 shows 6 sides.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

I think that picture is a tough angle/ bad light. Check out Deef's parts in 191. 8 sides .


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

You are right! And under my magnifier, I can see 8 on your picture too. Guess I am going to have to think about glasses.


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## Gokart2 (Jun 8, 2009)

My RLC lever position isn't like yours 103...Is there a way to move the cartrage to position the lever to lock/unlock where you want it to?


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

That is what alshead and I have been discussing. You can get in a 45 degree range. Use a number 2 hex to take the top bolt out while holding the adjustment knob still. Then lift up the knob and the hex screw. You will see 3 set screws that take a number 1 hex. Loosen each one only about a turn and a half. Until you can easily lift the blue lever up. There are 3 ball bearings on the bottom **be very careful not to lose them and if they fall out dab a little grease in the hole to hold them in. You only have to lift the lever up about 1/4 inch to move it to a different location on the 8 sided nut. Make sure you can move the lever clockwise enough to lock the fork. Gently retighten the set screws while making sure the lever is not turning hard. Reinstall the top cap and screw.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

yourdaguy said:


> That is what alshead and I have been discussing. You can get in a 45 degree range. Use a number 2 hex to take the top bolt out while holding the adjustment knob still. Then lift up the knob and the hex screw. You will see 3 set screws that take a number 1 hex. Loosen each one only about a turn and a half. Until you can easily lift the blue lever up. There are 3 ball bearings on the bottom **be very careful not to lose them and if they fall out dab a little grease in the hole to hold them in. You only have to lift the lever up about 1/4 inch to move it to a different location on the 8 sided nut. Make sure you can move the lever clockwise enough to lock the fork. Gently retighten the set screws while making sure the lever is not turning hard. Reinstall the top cap and screw.


 Pretty sure it's a 1.5mm hex for the 3 set screws


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## Gokart2 (Jun 8, 2009)

So does this relocate the lock position too? Or is this basically just move the unlocked lever position closer to the lock point? I guess I need to just take it apart and play. I have my RLC design drawn up and the parts list figured out, now I just need the parts. Broke as a joke...


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Alshead, I am sure you are correct. The size is so small, I can't possibly read it. It is the one that is smaller than 2 that I have.

Gokart2. The lock position moves in 45 degree increments as you put the lever on different facets of the nut. Generally, I would go as far clockwise as you can go without the lever hitting the back of the crown.


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## guitou46 (Jul 22, 2011)

*deef lock*

Hello

I leave in france, can i buy the deef lock for my fox and where ?

Thanks


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## Matte X.0 (Oct 4, 2008)

I asked deef for the same thing but i didn't get any answer.....


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## hsolorza (Nov 29, 2010)

Ya ... typical no reply Deef. If you want to buy ... he won't reply. Either the product is non-existant or he has NO customer relations skills. He is great at raising expectations and then making people feel stupid. Who would buy anything from him?


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## nikojan (Jun 18, 2011)

http://alshub.com/

click on the top right corner for the tutorial


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## nikojan (Jun 18, 2011)

Hey guys, I've read a few people have been successful in remolding this remote lockout to be compatible with they're fox forks. I havn't tried it though it seems like it might be your best bet, and its only $30. It's quite hard to do though, so don't say you weren't warned! Hope that helps :thumbsup:


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

On Page 3 of this thread, RobotHack used the Milo kit you're talking about- looks like quite a bit of work for the cable stop, but can definitely work. Still doesn't solve the RLC issue.

Man, for the life of me, I can't understand how Deef's system works internally. Anyone have any ideas? I'm hoping to talk to a machining guy this week and see what he says about putting something together...


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## nikojan (Jun 18, 2011)

Hope this helps, different perspective:

http://rafcryns.pinkbike.com/album/DEEF-lock-out/


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Thanks. That is awesome to see some different perspective...and to just see that SOMEONE has actually received one. I seriously still don't understand how that anchor piece that sits inside keeps from spinning... and what's the black conical washer thingie?


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## nikojan (Jun 18, 2011)

I honestly don't understand how someone could spend $300, which can get you a new bike, for a little piece of metal so you don't have to bend down while riding...

I understand with the rear shock but the front...seriously?


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## goto11 (Jun 12, 2009)

It seems that our efforts would be better spent trying to get Fox to produce a solution, since none of you fabricators seems to want to take this to scale.

I personally don't care about lockout on the front (never use it - that's what the platform setting is for), but I would like to be able to flick the TALAS between 110 and 140 mm travel on the fly (2012 FOX 32 TALAS 140 FIT RLC), and be able to flip ProPedal on/off for the RP23 without reaching down. The RP23 seems like the low-hanging fruit here. Come on, Fox!


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Fox is not remotely interested in helping you (pun intended). They want you to buy a new fork that has the lockout built in.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

goto11 said:


> since none of you fabricators seems to want to take this to scale.


Not a lack of want- a lack of time. Just a dad w a job and a family who likes bikes and likes to tinker. I hope to pick the project back up thus fall / winter.



> I personally don't care about lockout on the front (never use it - that's what the platform setting is for),


 if you have an rl, there is no platform setting


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## naylor343 (Sep 9, 2008)

Message for Robothack:

Hi, 

I have seen your lockout modification firstly on youtube then on this forum. I must congratulate you, it's so simple and easy using parts already available from rockshox and manitou instead of all the bother of trying to invent/manufacture something from scratch as others seem to be doing all which looks totally proffesional but not achievable by all.

I am looking at buying the complete MILO lockout kit incl lever (available for £26 at CRC in UK) and trying it myself. If you have the time, I have a few questions I would like to ask.

1. Did the black ring, with the cable stop, require any modification before fitting and if so to what level?

2. Was it possible to use the spring that comes with the MILO kit or is it too small or large?

3. Did you need to seat anything below the circlip (seeger ring) to keep it engaged with the spring or is it held in place by its own tension?

4. How did you fit the grub screw that secures the cable in place?

5. Any other thoughts you have to make the job easier?

Well many thanks for reading this, hope you have time to reply. I wil let you know how I get on and post some pictures on the forum if it works out

thanks again.


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## frenk (Jul 18, 2006)

als, I share your frustration for not understanding how deef's solution works. I don't even have a Fox but I keep thinking of it and how the ring could be kept in place :madman:

Could it be that it's just pushed in with a rubber mallet? Would this require too tight tolerances?
Then the two threaded holes could be used for removal: thread in two screws and the ring pops out. Don't know... just trying to apply some lateral thinking


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

@frenk: Thanks for jumping in the foray. I suppose that's possible- if you're doing the rubber mallet, it would have to be using a deep socket or the like to get around the center cylinder. For some reason, I'm skeptical that that's what's going on, but it sure would be great to hear from someone who actually has one or to see installation instructions from Deef.

@naylor343: I'm sure RobotHack will answer at some point, but I can answer a few of your questions:

1. Yes, it required modification- I think he talked about this earlier in this thread- and that it wasn't particularly easy modification either. I've put Milo kits together and the top cap is a bit smaller than the Fox one. 

2. I don't think you can use the spring from the Milo kit. I could be wrong and it's been a while since I worked on it, but I'm fairly certain it won't work.

3. No, you don't need to seat anything below the internal retention clip- it holds itself in place.

The rest is up to RH.


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## doralswheels (Jan 14, 2007)

frenk said:


> als, I share your frustration for not understanding how deef's solution works. I don't even have a Fox but I keep thinking of it and how the ring could be kept in place :madman:
> 
> Could it be that it's just pushed in with a rubber mallet? Would this require too tight tolerances?
> Then the two threaded holes could be used for removal: thread in two screws and the ring pops out. Don't know... just trying to apply some lateral thinking


frenk & als. Maybe you two guys have exceded your tinkering level. If you can get your hands on a external snap ring and find a shaft to slip the external snap ring over that has a minus factor of about 2mm, you will find that after sliping the external snap ring over the shaft and then trying to spin the snap ring, one of the two holes will let the snap ring spin like you think it will. However, if you try to spin the snap ring, using the other hole, it will force the snap ring to grab onto the shaft and not spin. I hope this helps you guys understand and get some sleep.:thumbsup:


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*hmmmm.*



doralswheels said:


> frenk & als. Maybe you two guys have exceded your tinkering level. If you can get your hands on a external snap ring and find a shaft to slip the external snap ring over that has a minus factor of about 2mm, you will find that after sliping the external snap ring over the shaft and then trying to spin the snap ring, one of the two holes will let the snap ring spin like you think it will. However, if you try to spin the snap ring, using the other hole, it will force the snap ring to grab onto the shaft and not spin. I hope this helps you guys understand and get some sleep.:thumbsup:


Hmmm- I'm not sure you get what we're talking about? The internal piece on Deef's setup isn't a snap ring- not an internal nor external ring, nor does it have those two holes like on a snap ring. I am very familiar with what you're saying as I've been running a remote with the internal retention (snap) ring for a few months with no problems, but we were talking about Deef's internal anchor for the spring.


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## naylor343 (Sep 9, 2008)

@alshead: Many thanks, I will keep the thread updated as to how it progresses, works/fails, hope it's the former.


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## brianlang (Oct 5, 2011)

*lockout fox rl*

deef would it be possible to buy the fork parts only as i have a lockout lever ready to use:thumbsup:


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

If you are trying to buy the lever, Rock Shox has pretty much stopped selling them as a part and now sells the adjustable one. However, if you have a fork that came with that part, you can order the replacement part for that fork. My wife's fork came with the left lever and it is the: Rock Shox Recon Silver TK 26er fork. You should be able to order a replacement lever for that fork and get what you want.


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## brianlang (Oct 5, 2011)

*remote lockout fox rl*

tried emailing deef no response yet will try again


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Deef is not interested in helping any of us. He made 4 sets and sold them for over $200 each and he is done.


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## osmarandsara (Jun 26, 2006)

I just stumbled on this thread.....lots of great ideas....anyone else other than Deef selling any kits?


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## iosunt1 (Sep 25, 2011)

Hello.
I can install any remote on my fox vanilla 32 r 2008?
10x


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## arnaldo1 (Nov 13, 2011)

is deef died? fox killed him!!!!!


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

I recently finally got around to trying to put my kit together for the RLC, but it's not going to work- you can't put in the internal spring as the compression knob seals off that part of the top cap and makes it impossible. I'd love to see other solutions from folks using an external spring or the like. If you're toying around and trying stuff, keep posting here- this thread picks up in the winter time .


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## arnaldo1 (Nov 13, 2011)

i want one deef kit....what i have to do?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Deef is dead*



arnaldo said:


> i want one deef kit....what i have to do?


Nothing. People have been trying to contact Deef for over two years. You're better off trying to put together your own solution.


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## arnaldo1 (Nov 13, 2011)

ok alshead....i can product a kit fo you...do you have msn or skype to talk?


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## arnaldo1 (Nov 13, 2011)

sorry but you have to geve me msn or skype...becouse i can't send you PM!


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

arnaldo only has 4 posts so he can't pm yet. arnaldo, do a few more posts, but the sad fact is that Deef is not selling kits, and according to him, he only made 4 kits and sold them for about what it would cost to buy the new internal parts from Fox to add a remote. Also of note, we have never heard from any of Deef's 4 customers so I am still thinking "vaporware" and that the parts Deef showed never actually worked as alshead has questioned.
I am doing my simple light solution as seen around page 4 and have been very happy for many miles. The other solution with a fabricated bracket attached to a starnut in the bottom of the steer tube is even more robust although I have had no issues with my setup except that at around 4 months the cable or crimped end stretched enough that the fork had a little play when locked. (this was probably 400 miles and many many locks) and all I had to do was put a new crimp piece on the end. The other bike (RLC) with over 400 miles (I ride it more) is still going strong and it was my 2nd effort and probably more precise.


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## arnaldo1 (Nov 13, 2011)

ok, i hope to have soon a new kit...at the moment i'm studying the procedure to make it, but i'm sure that i can make a simply remote kit...for rl fork....and then for rp2/23


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Excellent- Arnaldo- thanks for trying to hit me up on Skype- e-mail is definitely better as I'm in front of my computer usually in spurts. I'd love to chat through ideas/ designs/ concepts, and I think many of the other tinkerers on here would love to be a part of that as well. Like I said before, I'm most interested in there just being a decent solution and would love to come up with something that could be used with an RLC as well as an RL. If you're talking about fabricating pieces, I'm down to help with measurements, drawings, sketch ups, and overall design if you can do the machining. I was thinking a combination of many of the designs we've seen on this board. A fabricated lockout lever that replaces the existing one but has small cable-routing holes with set screws for anchoring the cable (like Deef's). Either a cable stop like 103's (that secures into the bottom of the steerer tube) or one like Deef's that anchors around the top cap, but with a cable stop that is further out (like 103's) to be able to use surgical tubing or a spring to allow for use with either the RL or RLC (so, no internal spring).


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## squirlyvt (Nov 19, 2011)

Just what needs to be done to get a MILO Lockout to fit onto the fork? Does anyone have experience with this mod?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*RobotHack, p.3*



squirlyvt said:


> Just what needs to be done to get a MILO Lockout to fit onto the fork? Does anyone have experience with this mod?


Squirly- go back to page 3 in these forums. RobotHack did the Milo adaptation. Haven't heard from him in a little bit, but it appeared that he had to do some pretty significant dremel work/ filing to get the piece to fit around the Fox top cap. Again, this mod won't work with an RLC.

I have copied what 103 did and it's working flawlessly on an RLC. I am working with a buddy to try to mass-produce something like this out of plastic- a lower steerer-tube anchor/ cable guide of sorts. Hope to have something in production within about a month or so- definitely by spring . The only pics I have are before I routed the cable, but I have a spring with small surgical tubing inside for the release, a RS Poploc lever, and it works like a charm.


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## youthfull (Sep 15, 2011)

Hello everyone,

I have this fork
Fox Evolution 32 Float 29 RL, 100mm, Lockout
CUBE LTD SL 29

and I have found the following upgrade

Fox Forx RL Remote Upgrade Service Kit
http://www.foxspares.com/shop/syste...ram=cid=22&aid=803-00-376&position=position1&

Do you know if it is compatible and what else I am gonna need?

Will the upgrade with a RockShox PopLoc Adjust Lever be enough or is it better to follow the instructions here Als Hub Bicycle Maintenance and Repair and forget the rest?


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## youthfull (Sep 15, 2011)

anyone?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Youthful- You've probably figured this out by now, but the kit you were looking at is, I believe, for a rear shock. Won't work or help you with the front fork.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Cable Guide Solution Available*

Okay kids- this thread has more longevity than many bikes, so if any of y'all are still interested...

A few posts back, I mentioned that I had copied what 103 did (bottom of page 10) and that we were looking to provide something like that in a lightweight plastic. Well, at long last, it's ready. You can purchase it directly from the manufacturer. There is one for a tapered steerer tube and one for a standard 1 1/8 steerer. I'm at work now and will post a full tutorial and video later, but wanted to share it. I'm not making any money on this, but the plastic bits cost between $20-25 bucks (they are 3D printed- super cool). Basically, it's a guide for the cable housing that secures into the bottom of the steerer. You'll still need a screw and nut (I'll provide exactly what size), remote lever, a spring, and to drill your blue lockout lever and secure the cable (a few ways to do this). I have this set up on my F29 100mm RLC with a tapered steerer for the past couple of months and it's working great (pics, etc to come). Here are some static shots of the first prototype that I have mounted up and we made some minor revisions to the final product. If you want to check it out, the site is Shapeways and the links are here:

Tapered: Lockout Tapered by Ahead on Shapeways
Standard: Lockout 1 1/8 by Ahead on Shapeways

When you go to the Shapeways site, click on the little 3D cube to the right of the image and you can see it spin in 3D and manipulate it. It's not a tinker-proof solution, but it's working really well, is clean, lightweight, and secures the cable so that it won't scoot in the middle of a ride and leave your system not working the way that zip-tying it did for me (might not for everyone- not trying to dis, that was just my experience). Oh- and they're available in black, white, or really any color you want (you can even have one printed out of steel or silver for beaucoup bucks). The little square piece attached on the side snips off and moves inside the vertical pieces to spread them out as it's pulled down (with screw and nut), secure the piece in place inside your steerer.

Word.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Nice job Al! :thumbsup:



***


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## arnaldo1 (Nov 13, 2011)

alshead said:


> Okay kids- this thread has more longevity than many bikes, so if any of y'all are still interested...
> .


beatiful work al!


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## jcaiado (Apr 27, 2010)

Yes, still interested!!!! More pictures of your system

JC


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## David-82 (Apr 12, 2012)

Hello! I write from Spain ... I want to block my kit fox, can it be?


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

David-82 Look at post 172 and you can do it with a remote lockout and a random spring and some zip ties.


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## David-82 (Apr 12, 2012)

Where I can buy the parts?


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## David-82 (Apr 12, 2012)

where I can buy a kit like Deef?


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## pmex (Aug 20, 2007)

alshead said:


> Youthful- You've probably figured this out by now, but the kit you were looking at is, I believe, for a rear shock. Won't work or help you with the front fork.


No, it's not, and yes it does.
Here's Fox's own service page describing the details of the kit: Remote RL Service Procedures.

I haven't checked with my local distributor whether it will work on my Float RL or not, but it looks promising.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

pmex: all those parts cost around $200 from Fox and take a rocket scientist to install. My solution requires a remote from RockShox that is way less than $50 and took me about 15 minutes to install and has worked flawlessly for close to a year. Also, the Fox solution weigh's more.


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## David-82 (Apr 12, 2012)

Can anyone help me?


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## ljracer (Nov 6, 2009)

Thanks to Al for making this a reality. I ordered my cable holder from Shapeways based on the design that Al provided. It works like a champ on my Fox F32 RLC 120mm travel fork paired with a poploc.












alshead said:


> Okay kids- this thread has more longevity than many bikes, so if any of y'all are still interested...
> 
> A few posts back, I mentioned that I had copied what 103 did (bottom of page 10) and that we were looking to provide something like that in a lightweight plastic. Well, at long last, it's ready. You can purchase it directly from the manufacturer. There is one for a tapered steerer tube and one for a standard 1 1/8 steerer. I'm at work now and will post a full tutorial and video later, but wanted to share it. I'm not making any money on this, but the plastic bits cost between $20-25 bucks (they are 3D printed- super cool). Basically, it's a guide for the cable housing that secures into the bottom of the steerer. You'll still need a screw and nut (I'll provide exactly what size), remote lever, a spring, and to drill your blue lockout lever and secure the cable (a few ways to do this). I have this set up on my F29 100mm RLC with a tapered steerer for the past couple of months and it's working great (pics, etc to come). Here are some static shots of the first prototype that I have mounted up and we made some minor revisions to the final product. If you want to check it out, the site is Shapeways and the links are here:
> 
> ...


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Good job! You could probably sell those on this list.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Super cool to see one set up on someone else's bike than mine! I've had a few people buy them, but haven't heard any feedback. I will post some step-by-step's soon- what screws to buy (#6-32 x 1") and what spring to get (hoping ljracer can give me some direction on this as I have just cobbled mine together with springs I had lying around).

More to come...


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Parts and Pieces*

Okay- so I wanted to put together SOMETHING to help folks out who might be interested in the cable stop.

Again, tapered and non-tapered versions are available here:

Tapered: Lockout Tapered by Ahead on Shapeways
Standard: Lockout 1 1/8 by Ahead on Shapeways

These pictures are of the black tapered one, but the parts and instructions are the same for both:

Parts you will need:
1) #6-32 1 1/2" screw and nut (you can get these at Home Depot in packs of 4)
1) #6-32 nut (at HD in packs of 12- annoying, but it's the easiest option for most)
1) Remote lever. I've been using the Rock Shox PushLoc. Can be had with a web search at around $60 and sometimes lower. The PopLoc will also work for a little cheaper at some sites, and other remote levers should work as well.
1) Spring: LJRacer got the 3/16 x 1-3/8 x 0.028 or 4.776 x 34.925 x .711 mm
Utility Compression Spring C-580 from his local hardware store- I know they have them at ACE- maybe at HD. For more, go to CSC Coil Springs Manufacturer - Stock & Custom - MRO & OEM | Century Spring Corp.
1) Brass Cable Stop*. You can get these at Pep Boys/ Auto Zone/ Checker/ Advanced, or just about any auto parts store. It came in a package of 6, all different sizes- this is the smallest (1/16"). Cost for all 6 was $3.39. I'm sure you can find them individually, but here's a link to the Advanced item: Buy Dorman - Help Cable Stops - Various Maximum Wire Diameter 03336 at Advance Auto Parts. For mostly aesthetic reasons, I then also picked up a socket head (3/32) set screw to replace the standard screw.
1) In-line housing/ cable adjuster. This is optional, but I find is really nice for dialing in the lockout. You can get these at any bike shop- jagwire makes a ton of them- also a google search will bring them up on Amazon, etc.

* If you have an RL and not an RLC, then I recommend doing the internal spring mod- it's stronger, cleaner, and works phenomenally. For more on this, go to Als Hub Bicycle Maintenance and Repair and click on the "DIY Remote Lockout" link in the upper right. This needs to be updated with info for the new cable stops, but the internal spring instructions are the same.

What to do:
1. Order from Shapeways. I make no money off of these, fwiw.
2. Get your parts ordered, procured, etc.
3. When you receive the part from Shapeways, cut the little tab/ spreader insert off the mold (I still don't know how to put pics in-line with text on here... sorry about that).
4. Press the #6-32 nut into it's place on the spreader. I recommend a little super glue as this will help push the spreader back for removal.
5. Insert screw and thread in a smidge (that's official terminology for 1/4" or so ).
6. Slip into the bottom of your steerer tube and tighten.
7. Mount remote lever with cable, inline adjuster (if using), housing, etc.
8. Thread cable through stop.
9. Thread through Spring.
10. Drill lockout lever (in my pics, I also tapped a small allen screw from the top to avoid using the brass cable stop).
11. Slide cable through lever and stop.
12. Tighten and adjust as necessary. I found it best to put the lever and remote in locked position, then pull tension through the cable and tighten.
13. Test. Adjust. Ride.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Finally; after over 4 years of waiting, there is an off the shelf solution to this problem. Way to go Alshead and ljracer! If my qhetto mod ever fails, I will be converting to this much cleaner method immediately.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

I wouldn't exactly call it an "off the shelf" solution, but it's something to work with . 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Cool! Someone else just bought a couple. 4-5 people have bought them so far, but ljracer is the first to post anything about his experience. If any others have bought and are lurking here, post up about your experience with the cable stops from Shapeways. Your feedback is appreciated. The model is relatively easy to adjust (especially because my buddy does all the CADD work ), so little tweaks can definitely help make a better product. Word.


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## Axa (Aug 26, 2009)

I use the fork hight adjustment allot more then the lockout on my bike. Do you have any plans for a cable-stop for a TALAS-remote in a near future?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Axa- I don't ride a Talas and I'm not sure how it would work, but if you think you could use a reverse image of what we've already put together for the lockout and make it work, that would be easy to provide. You could also try using these same ones and run it off the front of the fork. I think the trickiest part would be if it's a 3 position fork- I know some are three and some are two. Either way, lemme know what you think about using the existing model or a reverse-direction/ mirror image and I can do that.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Still more folks buying the steerer tube cable router from Shapeways, but still haven't received much feedback from folks- let me know how they're working!


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

@alshead....is there anyway around me drilling a hole on the crown? i just bought a TREK SUPERFLY AL ELITE and would not want to void my warranty.

thanks.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

bapski said:


> @alshead....is there anyway around me drilling a hole on the crown? i just bought a TREK SUPERFLY AL ELITE and would not want to void my warranty.
> 
> thanks.


Hmmm- not sure what you're referring to. There is no need to drill a hole in your crown. If you mean your blue lever, there's not really a way around it- we tried to do a cap that goes over it a while back, but it wasn't reliable and would pop off sometimes. If you're worried about warranty, you can buy new blue levers for about $20 (order through your LBS or find one online) and you could always drill the extra one or keep the extra one around if you ever have to bring the fork/ bike in for warranty issues.


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## Troyabusa (Aug 30, 2012)

*Fox remote lever 2013*

Hi i am looking for a set up for a FOX Evolution series Float 29, CTD damper, tapered alloy steerer, CTD damper, open 9mm dropout, external rebound adj., 100mm travel
that comes with my 2013 carve pro (Hardtail) using 
the fox CTD 2013 remote lever .what more do i need? 
aslhead
THKS


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## Troyabusa (Aug 30, 2012)

Some one help?


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

alshead said:


> Hmmm- not sure what you're referring to. There is no need to drill a hole in your crown. If you mean your blue lever, there's not really a way around it- we tried to do a cap that goes over it a while back, but it wasn't reliable and would pop off sometimes. If you're worried about warranty, you can buy new blue levers for about $20 (order through your LBS or find one online) and you could always drill the extra one or keep the extra one around if you ever have to bring the fork/ bike in for warranty issues.


yup, i meant the blue lever... thank you. will look into this... better yet.. would you be able to provide a link to the the blue lever..staff on my LBS are SNOBS and i cant seem to really talk to them without me thinking that i am a burden to them...

thank you again.


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## Troyabusa (Aug 30, 2012)

I am looking for a setup the 2013 fox ctd remote lever for my carve pro 2013 fox ctd fork
anybody ?


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Troyabusa-you need to read through the entire thread. I have posted several solutions complete with pictures and others have other ideas that you might like better. Nobody wants to clutter up the thread answering everybody that doesn't want to take the time to read the thread.

To give an example, I am currently working my way through a 4000+post thread on Chinese carbon 29er rims. I could just jump in at the end and ask a bunch of questions that have already been answered. Instead, I am taking a couple of weeks to wade through the entire thread and in the process I am learning much. Including what the important questions to ask are.

The forum is a fabulous way to gain knowledge but only works if everybody gets up to speed before they jump in. Otherwise, it wastes more time than it gains.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

People keep buying the units I put up on Shapeways- I'd love to see some more pics of them on your bikes!


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## SummitSlug (May 29, 2011)

@alshead

I just ordered the steerer tube cable router from Shapeways and a SRAM PopLoc. I'll post pictures after I get it installed and operational. Thanks for designing the cable router and posting a low-cost remote lockout for Fox forks.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Sweet!*



SummitSlug said:


> @alshead
> 
> I just ordered the steerer tube cable router from Shapeways and a SRAM PopLoc. I'll post pictures after I get it installed and operational. Thanks for designing the cable router and posting a low-cost remote lockout for Fox forks.


Cool! Thanks, Slug- I look forward to hearing how it works for you. About a dozen people have picked them up, but I have only heard the one response, above.

Enjoy!


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

By the way, I have a part number for the left hand Poplock which is the one that has been discussed in this forum It is: 11.4308.848.000

The newer version (called PushLoc) that came with some 2012 and 2013 forks also for the left side is 11.4015.173.000. This one is fancier and heavier and it is a push/push release as opposed to a push a lever to lock and push a different button to release. I don't like it as well,but some might like it better. Also, this newer one can be removed without sliding it off the end of the bar since when you remove the bolt, the clamp opens in half and can be removed or added to the bar.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

If anybody wants, I can take pictures of both designs.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

...still getting notices that the cable guides are getting purchased here and there- would love to see some setup and experience, etc. 

Troyabusa- I don't know if you got this taken care of in the last 4 months, but for the CTD forks, Fox sells a remote kit that has three lever positions (CTD) and is $80. It can be dual pull for a rear shock as well, but can be set up to run just the fork. Instructions are online and the conversion looks pretty simple.


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## SummitSlug (May 29, 2011)

@alshead

Finished installing the remote lockout with a Push-lock It's working great but haven't tried it on the trail. I attempted to drill and thread a set screw in the lock-out lever but didn't leave enough material for the threads - so may order a replacement lockout lever and redrill it.


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## SummitSlug (May 29, 2011)

....


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Nice!


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## Reflex666 (Jan 29, 2013)

I have ordered the shapeways item some weeks ago and received it some days ago. For the Dutch people the item is send from Eindhoven in the Netherlands. That way it is a lot quicker.

I have installed it with a Pushloc system from Rockshox. I only had some difficulty's to find a fitting spring. I found one that is slightly to big and heavy. 

Thanks for this great item :thumbsup:


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

SummitSlug said:


> @alshead
> 
> Finished installing the remote lockout with a Push-lock It's working great but haven't tried it on the trail. I attempted to drill and thread a set screw in the lock-out lever but didn't leave enough material for the threads - so may order a replacement lockout lever and redrill it.


Awesome! Let me know how it stands up on the trail!


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

More and more of these are selling, which is great- I hope people are liking them and they're holding up on the trail.

On a related note, I have a Rock Shox PushLoc remote, new in packaging if anyone needs one. PM me.


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## goto11 (Jun 12, 2009)

Axa said:


> I use the fork hight adjustment allot more then the lockout on my bike. Do you have any plans for a cable-stop for a TALAS-remote in a near future?


Agreed 100%.

I rarely use lockout, just TALAS for short/long travel climbing/descending, respectively. A TALAS remote would be key for the way I ride.


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## goto11 (Jun 12, 2009)

alshead said:


> More and more of these are selling, which is great- I hope people are liking them and they're holding up on the trail.
> 
> On a related note, I have a Rock Shox PushLoc remote, new in packaging if anyone needs one. PM me.


No one I ride with uses lockout, except perhaps on the rare occasion that we are on the road for several miles, but even on road the suspension is nice when I hit a pothole or something... I can't remember the last time I used lockout.

It seems to me that lockout defeats the purpose of owning a suspension fork and I don't understand why a properly set up fork would need a remote to actuate it. That's what the compression and platform settings are for. Back in the early 90's, when I switched from rigid to suspension forks, lockout was a crutch to aid in the transition, but is no longer necessary.

Are you guys who use lockout so much that you need a remote just a bunch of roadies who dabble in mountain biking? I'm not saying the feature should go away, but it is so rarely used that a handlebar remote seems silly to me.

If you need to lock out your fork, then maybe you need a shorter stem? A properly-balanced and tuned suspension configuration should not be significantly compressing the fork due to rider input, but due to terrain input, in which case lockout will actually slow you down, not speed you up.

Rant over. I would love to see a remote for TALAS. It sucks when I realize mid-descent that I forgot to switch to long travel. Not to bag on your product alshead - you clearly have a market for it, and being an ME myself, I respect the engineering. Perhaps your market is XC riders, but AM riders benefit greatly from TALAS in toggling between XC and DH mode, and ease of lockout is not really a consideration for us.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

goto11; you obviously don't ride SS. We have a lot of hills around here and when riding ss you have to stand and pump when going up steep hills with a 34-19 gear. When you do that much energy is wasted pumping the fork unless you have a lockout. This is even true to the extent that I like Rock Shox forks better except on SS I prefer Fox since you can set the gate to where they barely move on Fox forks.

Around here it is likely that I will lock the fork as often as 10 times in a mile as I go up and down and up. Also, having a lockout on a geared bike is still an advantage especially for those that race. If you save a half second on every steep hill on the course it adds up to a lot in a race that is decided by seconds. Locked out forks are much more efficient during climbing especially if you are standing. Also, if you ever tried a fork that locks with the flip of a lever, you would never go back unless you just don't care how well you climb.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Does anyone have one of the older left side pushlock levers like the one pictured in post 288? Alshead's is like the newer design as pictured in post 268 for those that are interested in buying his. If you have one and it is a left one and you want to sell it, pm me.


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## goto11 (Jun 12, 2009)

yourdaguy said:


> goto11; you obviously don't ride SS.


Good point. No, I do not regularly ride SS. I do have a single speed Klunker and understand how hard you have to pump when standing up and climbing, so I can see the potential value of lockout (except I have a rigid fork on that bike).

I am an all-mountain rider: XC style up and DH style down. I have been in a few races over the years and ridden every type of MTB since the early days of the sport. I climb in a seated position with a smooth cadence and as such, there is no front/rear suspension bob due to rider input. I'm not riding for time these days, but I'm not a slow rider either.

Standing up while climbing does not provide optimal traction or speed, either on a rigid or full-plush bike, though it is a necessity when riding a bike that lacks low gears. I like gears, but to each his/her own.

:madmax: I know I'm flame-baiting here on MTBR where single speeds and XC-oriented niners are all the rage, but the real problem here seems to be that people are riding bikes without proper gearing, and that lockout is a solution to a self-imposed problem. The fact that a disproportionate number of bikes for sale on Craigslist are SS shows that this is a form of masochism that many people who jump on the bandwagon soon realize is no fun at all.

If you take pleasure in riding like Tinker Juarez in the big ring, then more power to you. Different strokes for different folks. I do think I represent the majority of long-time, hardcore mountain bikers, though, as opposed to those who recently jumped on the SS/29er bandwagon.

Only time will tell if the recent SS and XC 29er phenomenon has any staying power. I already see the days of this trend dwindling with the recent onslaught of AM-oriented hardtails coming on the market as a backlash to these crippled, under-geared bikes everyone has been buying, and then selling on Craigslist once they realize the limitations of these designs make mountain biking unenjoyable.

As for the OP, no disrespect. I see that you have several bikes in your quiver. It took me 18 years before I added a full-suspension bike to my quiver. There is a 29er hardtail monstercross bike in the near future, but it will also have a triple out front and big cogs in the back. Maybe one day I'll get a single speeder, but I live in a valley with hills all around, and I don't want to limit the options of where I can ride. :madmax:


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

Gearing is not the answer to all terrain. We have many places here that have very short very steep hills with turns at the bottom and it is very hard to downshift the several gears at one time in the transition so even the fast guys usually just stand at the top. The guys around here that go into the really low gears and spin are the really slow guys. An average hill around here is 75-100 feet long but 25% grade and transitions from a short fairly flat section usually at a tight turn so you would have to go from a 22-18 to a 22-34 right at the bottom of the hill while peddling hard or you could just shift to a 22-25 and stand at the top. Most will do that and the slow guys will shift all the gears at the bottom and then climb the entire hill at 2 mph. I will admit that there are some hills where the lockout is not the answer because on top of the steep grade there are some nasty roots to bounce over but if they are at the bottom you can bounce over them at speed and then hit the lockout for the top part. A lockout is just another tool in the quiver just like gears and hydraulic disc brakes.


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## goto11 (Jun 12, 2009)

yourdaguy said:


> Gearing is not the answer to all terrain. We have many places here that have very short very steep hills with turns at the bottom and it is very hard to downshift the several gears at one time in the transition so even the fast guys usually just stand at the top. The guys around here that go into the really low gears and spin are the really slow guys. An average hill around here is 75-100 feet long...


It sounds like you don't ride in a very mountainous/hilly region compared to me. Most of my trails require about 1000' of elevation gain (not distance, but vertical gain) before I get to top, then drop down into the good stuff. I climb in my middle ring. On most rides under 25 miles, I never shift into the granny... But there are those 30+ mile epics when a granny is nice to have at the end of a long day .

I am not an advocate of granny gears - they should be avoided - but I do think a wide gear ratio warrants the weight penalty for the terrain I ride. If I rode where you do, then a SS bike would probably be the ticket.

Ride on!


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## wellcraft (Feb 7, 2009)

Pm sent.


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## wellcraft (Feb 7, 2009)

alshead pm sent.


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## santacruzflyer (Feb 7, 2010)




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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

SantaCruzFlyer- awesome! How's it holding up? What lever is that?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

goto11 said:


> It sounds like you don't ride in a very mountainous/hilly region compared to me. Most of my trails require about 1000' of elevation gain (not distance, but vertical gain) before I get to top, then drop down into the good stuff. I climb in my middle ring. On most rides under 25 miles, I never shift into the granny... But there are those 30+ mile epics when a granny is nice to have at the end of a long day .
> 
> I am not an advocate of granny gears - they should be avoided - but I do think a wide gear ratio warrants the weight penalty for the terrain I ride. If I rode where you do, then a SS bike would probably be the ticket.
> 
> Ride on!


I know that there's some baiting going on here, and I don't want to sidetrack a several year-old thread that, despite _your opinions_, continues to have contributions. I just think you have a very limited view of what is good and what is not good based on who you are as a rider and what/ how you ride. I also live in a very mountainous area. I ride XC/ AM like you- screaming as fast as I can down the downhills and trying to be as efficient as possible on the ups. I do high alpine epics and everything in between. Just when I'm thinking I'm pretty bada*s, I'll go for a several hour ride that includes hiking cornices and dropping into gnarly trails with a buddy who rides rigid SS. He's been doing so for years, and many, many are right there with him. SS is not a fad, 29ers are not a fad, suspension is not a fad and wanting to lockout your front suspension is not a fad. A "properly" adjusted front suspension is dictated by the rider- I'm very picky about mine, and many people I ride with don't know the first thing about theirs- but they love the ride. Most lockouts often have a threshold (often adjustable) to help you blow through when locked out- part of the beauty of the design and part of the intention.

But I digress- I think my main reason for wanting to respond is to say, why do you care? The best thing about bikes right now is how much they are proliferating. 650b's seem silly to me, but if they make someone smile and feel like they can charge a trail more confidently, then more power to both the rider and the company producing the bike. If someone wants to stand up for a whole climb and they can do it, more power to them! (fwiw, there is some debate about whether seated pedaling really is more efficient/ better on uphill/ technical terrain). If someone wants to (or needs to) use their granny gear the whole climb and sit back and spin, more power to them (why should granny be avoided?)! Some things will come and go, but there are more bicycles and more _kinds_ of bicycles AND more kinds of riders than ever in the history of mankind. There are city sponsored bike parks popping up all over the country, trail systems are proliferating with more and more input from riders and attention to sustainability _and_ flow/ fun, metropolitan areas are installing bike share/ rental programs all around the country... I don't care what someone rides, how fast, how slow, if they want to lock out or want to inch-worm their way up a trail on a 7" DH bike (or even walk it). I often ride SS and it makes me a better rider. I also run (gasp)- because it makes me a better rider. I think you not wanting to lockout is awesome. I think me (and several folks who have logged on to this and many other threads and, and the growth of remote lockout systems from manufacturers) wanting to lockout is awesome.

My guess is that we all enjoy the ride. Bikes is bikes is bikes is bikes.

Yay bikes.


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## santacruzflyer (Feb 7, 2010)

The lever is a Magura unit. Forget which one. Did a search for lockout pics and liked this one the best. Was hard to find. Lever throw stock was too long, so took it apart, a little dremel, and halfed the stroke. Lever action is light and secure. Also had to make a spacer so the lever would not contact Gripshift. Used it this past week in Breck on vacation. Did the 100 Sunday and used it often. So easy to get to and use that any time I stood up I could lock out. And with all the climbing and smooth sections locking out came in handy. I thank you for your design, it works great.


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## santacruzflyer (Feb 7, 2010)

Now design something for the rear shock


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

santacruzflyer- awesomeness! I was at the Breck (only did the 32) on Sunday as well- would've been fun to see the setup- happy it helped.

Here's a pitch to you Talas and rear shock people. I don't ride a Talas, and ride a HT SS and a Stumpy with a Brain, so I have no legitimate motivation for those mods. HOWEVER, if someone wants to put together some ideas/ design/ sketches, I'll see what I can do to adapt it. Without either, though, I won't be able to do any R&D, but might be able to help you get something designed and printed (manufactured) to try out.

Word.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

FWIW, I continue to see units being sold on the Shapeways shop- would love to hear/ see more feedback from folks- how they're holding up, etc.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

I bought one and tried to get it to work on a SID RCT3 which was not successful. I sold it to a buddy and last time I asked him all was well.


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## santacruzflyer (Feb 7, 2010)

been using mine flawlessly for over 8 months


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

^cool.

Yourdaguy- what didn't work on the RS? I haven't tried it, nor was it designed for it, but I'm curious. Thanks.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

It has 3 positions and I knew from the outset it was only going to shift between 2 of them, but I never could get it to work since there never seemed to be a combination of detent strength, spring strength, etc. to have it reliably shift between locked and the middle position or fully unlocked and the middle position. Maybe if I tried more springs, (I had 4 different springs) or more patience, I could have gotten it to work, but it probably would not work on the trail for very long. Then I was helping my buddy set his fork up for a remote by my crude method that doesn't use your part and I told him about it and showed him the part and he wanted to buy it and so I sold it to him.


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## chasejj (Sep 22, 2008)

alshead said:


> FWIW, I continue to see units being sold on the Shapeways shop- would love to hear/ see more feedback from folks- how they're holding up, etc.


I just bought one today and plan to hack it onto my 2014 36 Talas using my now non-functioning (went to single ring) XTR front shifter (set to 2 positions). I will probably need to route it into the front as well. Messy but worth it to have remote.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

^Cool! Let us know how it goes.


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## yourdaguy (Dec 20, 2008)

The part that is getting hard to find is the remote lever. I bought the last 3 I could find (got them from Europe) about a year ago. It looks like I have one extra. It is a left side the original SRAM version without the adjuster. If interested PM me.


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## santacruzflyer (Feb 7, 2010)

Mine is still working great. Getting close to a year


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## chasejj (Sep 22, 2008)

yourdaguy said:


> The part that is getting hard to find is the remote lever. I bought the last 3 I could find (got them from Europe) about a year ago. It looks like I have one extra. It is a left side the original SRAM version without the adjuster. If interested PM me.


If you jump on the single front ring craze ( I resisted for quite a while , but now see the real advantages) you will find that you have a perfectly ergo remote on the left side of your bars ready to go with a few mods.

I ordered a 90degree noodle for the cable routing piece I have coming, which will have to go in front of the fork.
Cable pull on the XTR front shifter looks pretty close. Hoping for a 30 minute job once my cable guide gets here.


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## chasejj (Sep 22, 2008)

*Talas Remote with Shapeways*


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

^Rad.


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## Preston67 (Mar 20, 2008)

chasejj

I don't suppose you have a higher resolution photo of your cap mechanism do you ? I couldn't really understand your cable routing/termination at the cap from the video. 
I know its not rocket science and there are many ways to figure this out but I'm still interested in how you have that setup. Also is that the stock talas cap that came on your fork (and what year is it) ? Mine does not have a "lever" on it, its just a knurled blue cap, I'm not sure there is enough meat on there to run a cable through it.


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## Preston67 (Mar 20, 2008)

Never mind I must be a moron I went out and looked and my cap looks just like yours. Appreciate you sharing this info, I'm going to give it whirl. Been wanting something like this for a long time.


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## Michiel25 (Jun 10, 2014)

Hi All, any advice on taking the Polished Strong & Flexible Plastic (smooth surface)or the 'normal' Strong & Flexible Plastic 3D print? I'm the owner of a Scott Scale 30 and would like to have a remote lockout on this bike.


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## tc3stocker (Feb 9, 2015)

Still available?


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## fenwick458 (Sep 16, 2016)

I have this fitted to my bike, bought 2 of most of the parts needed as a friend was interested in doing it but he has sold his bike now! most of the parts have been lost or are not worth using as I found out so have a shape ways black mount for tapered steerer and the nut & bolt if anyone is interested, heres a link to the eBay ad
Fox Remote Lockout


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## Preston67 (Mar 20, 2008)

Since you brought this up I thought some of you might find this interesting - I couldn't care less about remote lock out but I use this remote travel adjuster constantly on my bike. It makes my E29 into a real XC machine without giving up the front travel for more rigorous descents. I built the equivalent of that little piece above out of aluminum, obviously not everyone has the ability to TIG weld small chunks of aluminum though. I used a Shockblade front fender plug to put it in the bottom of the steer tube, basically it looks just like that piece above without the cable arm. Bonus is I can still run the front fender as well.


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## Mightycor (Jan 9, 2017)

*Can Talas remote mod work on the Pike*

Chasejj, I know that this is an old post, but do you have a better resolution picture of your set up. I can't make out what you used to anchor the spring to closest to the shapeway guide. I'm trying to assess whether this will work on a dual position Pike. Thanks!



chasejj said:


>


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## Preston67 (Mar 20, 2008)

FYI the post right above yours is my setup on a D/A Pike if that helps at all.


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## Mightycor (Jan 9, 2017)

*Dual position pike remote using shapeways Router*

Thanks Preston67,
This is what I came up with for my 150 dual position pike using the shapeways cable router. I am using a Slx 3x front shifter, due to how far the cable has to pull to move the switch between the two final positions. Tested it today, and The system works flawlessly. Needs some refinement (mostly aesthetic), but super happy.


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## Preston67 (Mar 20, 2008)

Looks good ! I've been surprised that dual position forks have lost favor over the years. I think they're great and having a remote on them makes them even better. It'd sure be nice to have an OEM solution, maybe even an electric one.


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## black_taco (Apr 12, 2005)

Does anyone have a retired remote lockout setup sitting around on an old fork they would like to sell, 2010-2011 Fox F29 RL here. Thanks!


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