# New to Rohloff hub



## smeurett (Jul 21, 2007)

Just trying a Rohloff hub (14 speed) for the first time on a fatbike. My first impressions/questions.
SHifting under even the slightest torque is impossible. I have to soft pedal to get the shifts to go to an easier gear. Compared to a standard hub, where you can usually get it to shift under pressure, the Rohloff will not.

The lower gears (5 and down) sound odd- it's a RRrrrrRRr RRrrrrrRRR RRRrrrrR pedaling-even under low pedaling pressure. In the upper gears it's silky smooth quiet. Maybe it's mental, but the hub seems much less draggy in those upper gears. (This is a brand new hub, btw. & belt drive). 

The low end doesn't seem very low (especially for a fat bike)-not sure how the gear ratios compare to a standard, lets say 1X10, but climbing is tough. Any thoughts?


----------



## Ptor (Jan 29, 2004)

You can learn to shift a Rohloff under most any circumstance (meaning when grinding up a hill), but it takes a bit of practice. You need only a fraction of a second relief on the pedals to get it to go, but there's a timing thing with twisting the shifter and easing off. I mis-shift maybe once a year now, a dozen or more times a year on the derailer equipped bike, never on the single speed.

My Speedhub (the only one I've ridden) does exactly what you say with the lower gear range -- odd sounds and a bit of pedal feedback. Unlike others report, mine has never improved with use. However, it really doesn't seem to impact pedaling efficiency in my world.

My low end is very low (16.4 gear inches on a 29er), but I've paired the hub with a 34 tooth chainring. I NEVER use gear one, seldom gear two, very rarely gear three -- I can't stay upright spinning that fast while moving that slowly over rough terrain (in gear 1). I live in the mountains and at altitude, but it's still not overgeared -- so I guess that's a matter of opinion.


----------



## smeurett (Jul 21, 2007)

PeT said:


> You can learn to shift a Rohloff under most any circumstance (meaning when grinding up a hill), but it takes a bit of practice. You need only a fraction of a second relief on the pedals to get it to go, but there's a timing thing with twisting the shifter and easing off. I mis-shift maybe once a year now, a dozen or more times a year on the derailer equipped bike, never on the single speed.
> 
> My Speedhub (the only one I've ridden) does exactly what you say with the lower gear range -- odd sounds and a bit of pedal feedback. Unlike others report, mine has never improved with use. However, it really doesn't seem to impact pedaling efficiency in my world.
> 
> My low end is very low (16.4 gear inches on a 29er), but I've paired the hub with a 34 tooth chainring. I NEVER use gear one, seldom gear two, very rarely gear three -- I can't stay upright spinning that fast while moving that slowly over rough terrain (in gear 1). I live in the mountains and at altitude, but it's still not overgeared -- so I guess that's a matter of opinion.


Thanks-that's what I wondered-those lower gears just sound......slow RRRRrrrRRRr. Wish they were all quiet. I thought I'd read that these hubs could be shifted sitting still? I can't see that happening the way one has to let off the power in order to shift. I guess I expected to be smoother both in sound and shifting ability.

Is there any adjustments that are needed to the cables?


----------



## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

I have mine for ten years and it got quieter with time and the shifting is smoother also.

Normal for the sound ,on speeds 1-7 , it uses more planetary gears.

The biggest advantage of this hub IS being able shift stand still , I don't understand your comment.
If you mean stand still on the bike , there is always a moment when stand still where you shift weight fore aft , shift at these moments.

You'll learn when to shift while climbing.
You need microsecond of less pressure for the shifting to occur.

Also , it's easier between some and tougher between others.
On mine , I have to let go a little between 3rd and 2nd but I can apply full pressure between 2nd and 1st.

If you're like me , you'll get it with time and you'll find it weird when coming back to a derailleur bike.

A thread on Rohloff noize:
Rohloff or traditional drive train, which is quieter?- Mtbr.com


----------



## smeurett (Jul 21, 2007)

I appreciate the comments-I think it may be just a learning curve on shifting. Anticipating the shift more so than with a "normal" gear changer. I've heard from others that it does make noise when in the lower gears.


----------



## shwinboy (Jan 13, 2004)

My hub is 3 years old now and it is much quieter in the low 7 gears. It took the better part of 3 years to get there though. You get used to backing off the pedals while shifting. Because it shifts so quick you barely notice the interruption in pedaling most the time and it comes in real handy when caught on steep switch backs in the wrong gear. 
I run a 38 x 16 combo which has me spending most of my time in gears 8,9,10. The lowest gear is plenty.


----------



## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

I've got about 400km on my new Rohloff, gears 1 to 7 are noisy, gears 8 to 14 are silent. The crank spins rather than the freewheel when the bike is on the stand due to the seals but I assume that will reduce after a while however I dont notice any real drag or problems riding. I got used to the shifting within a few km's generally I am very happy with it.

A couple minor gripes: the pickup in gears 1 to 7 compared to the XX1 on a King hub is slow, the rohloff is great for spinning up a hill with a constant cadance, I don't notice a huge increase drag. Out of the saddle aggresive climbing constantly changing cadance the additional rotating mass and slow pickup does have a detrimental effect on efficiancy. The additional rotating mass does make this hub feel sluggish when trying to accelerate it certainly isnt put the power down and go. The flip side is the hub acts a bit like a flywheel and it is easy to keep it going once its rolling. The weight on the rear wheel has changed the handling of the bike it is not as easy to throw about and I have hung up the rear wheel when hopping stuff I would normally clear, skid turns are nigh on impossible so far, and on steep climbs in low gear I can feel the front wheel trying to lift, i am sure that I will get used to it.

I don't think this is a hub for KOMs or racing but for long days in the saddle day after day bike packing and commuting which is what I bought it for I reckon its the business no complaints so far.


----------



## ladljon (Nov 30, 2011)

I have two Rohloff and have no problems racing with them. The older one is defiantly smoother and less noisy. The older will shift under power, which has surprised me, a few times. No mechanicals...Happy


----------



## renegade44 (Jan 18, 2007)

Just got my first rohloff myself, but only 40ish miles so far.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jon_baler/sets/72157649458295110

I found this chart really useful for comparing gear ratios of a Rohloff with a traditional geared setup. 
http://www.rohloff.de/fileadmin/roh...hub/kettenuebersetzung/rohloff_shimano.en.pdf

And of course, Rohloff has a minimum recommendation of how low you can go based on your weight.
Smallest permissible sprocket ratios:
Sprocket ratios: www.rohloff.de

The primary sprocket ratio used with the Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 (e.g. 42:16) converts the slow rotational speed at the crank into a fast rotational speed at the rear sprocket and reduces the input torque for the Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 in the same proportion. To prevent overstraining the hub, a minimum factor of 2.10 must be used. This minimum factor equates to a primary transmission ratio of:- 36:17, 34:16, 32:15 and 28:13. These SPEEDHUB 500/14 ratios resemble a derailleur transmission of 20:34.

Larger chainrings can be used without exceptions.

Attention!

If mounted on a tandem or if the rider weighs over 100kg, the minimum factor of 2.50 must not be undercut. This equates to primary transmission ratios of:- 32:13, 38:15, 40:16 and 42:17.

Again, larger chainrings can be used without exceptions.


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

I know a few people who run 34:16 for several years now no issues and these guys put some power down for sure (2 over 220lbs)....The sacrificial nylon shear pins will go first before any damage is done in any case.


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

SimpleJon said:


> The crank spins rather than the freewheel when the bike is on the stand due to the seals but I assume that will reduce after a while however I dont notice any real drag or problems riding. I got used to the shifting within a few km's generally I am very happy with it.
> 
> The weight on the rear wheel has changed the handling of the bike it is not as easy to throw about and I have hung up the rear wheel when hopping stuff I would normally clear, skid turns are nigh on impossible so far, and on steep climbs in low gear I can feel the front wheel trying to lift, i am sure that I will get used to it.


I put a drop or 2 of TriFlow on the seal (chainring side) this really helps with the drag.

Everyone is different, I hardly notice the extra weight on the rear wheel and I can slide the rear around like I stole it....

The lift, I would say is your frame size / setup / technique, I just don't see how the hub would affect this....?


----------



## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

It's on a 29er Karate Monkey, compared to King hub and XX1 I did notice the weight - I laced the hub back into the same rim + the old tire so the hub and rotor is all that has changed. (the XX1 was picked up cheap ex display and always destined for a 650b AM FS build). 

As I said I'm pretty sure that I'll get used to it, I've only taken it out on anything remotely techy once. 350km of the 400km was a couple weekend bikepacking trips where the terrain was fire road, flowy single track type of stuff - a few steep hills though. They sent me a 160 rotor with the hub by mistake, should have the replacement 180 in a couple of days - hopefully that should help I normally ride 180's.


----------

