# Setting Torque with Open Wrenches/Spanners



## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

I have several torque wrenches, but nothing that would apply to the situation below. What do you guys use in such cases? Maybe I'm missing something obvious.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

They're not describing much torque. If you're using a largish wrench, that's just snug.

Honestly for a lot of parts, especially non-load path parts, I just wing it. The torque spec is still useful because it gives me an idea of if they're talking "snug," "tight" or "whale on it."

If it's important to you to torque to spec, you can get open-end adapters with a square drive, so you can use your torque wrench. Another arrangement is to use a fish scale at a measured distance from the screw to measure force. The distance gives you torque.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Yep, to date I've winged it as well, and this is really the only scenario I encounter where I can't directly apply specific torque. I am somewhat more cautious in this case as my new brake housings are magnesium. 

I suppose the other caveat in this particular application is fluid leak. Too loose means leaks (and potential air intake). Too tight means a damaged olive, which also means leaks.

Can you point me to an example of the "open-end adapter with a square drive" so I can see what you're referring to? Would be appreciated.


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## bvibert (Mar 30, 2006)

Something like this set is what you need if you want to use a torque wrench on a line fitting:

Sears.com

They look something like this:


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## 8iking VIIking (Dec 20, 2012)

It's called a "crow's foot"










I believe you need to use some type of calculation to get the proper torque, as the readout on the wrench won't be accurate.

I'm not exactly sure about the calculation you need. I usually just wing it in those type of situations. Especially when they give you a torque range like that, it should be fine to just estimate


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## -Todd- (Jun 13, 2011)

For stuff like this I use my calibrated hand with a regular wrench to get it all tight. THere's no carbon bits to worry about, a little more torque won't be catastrophic. 

Once you've done enough of these you can actually feel the olive deform. 1/4 past tight is plenty. If it leaks, you need a bit more. Lube the threads and olive with brake fluid to make it all easier.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Hey, thanks for all the tips folks. Perhaps I won't need it after all - as indicated, carbon is the only real area of concern, and this isn't one of them. Cheers.


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## big_papa_nuts (Mar 29, 2010)

8iking VIIking said:


> It's called a "crow's foot"
> 
> I believe you need to use some type of calculation to get the proper torque, as the readout on the wrench won't be accurate.
> 
> I'm not exactly sure about the calculation you need. I usually just wing it in those type of situations. Especially when they give you a torque range like that, it should be fine to just estimate


Or BBI Torque Adapter.

You actually don't have to do any conversions if your using a crows foot correctly. You simply align the crows foot at a 90* angle (as Park illustrates on the TWB-15).


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Ah, very cool - maybe I'll buy one.


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## bing! (Jul 8, 2010)

avid brake includes one


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## big_papa_nuts (Mar 29, 2010)

Just to clarify, the Park TWB-15 pictured above is a pedal wrench and will not work on your brakes. 

I find myself utilizing the BBI Torque Adaptor most time because I can just use the combination wrenches I already have handy, and that can actually give you a bit more reach for tight spots. Though I will say that tool can be awkward to use.


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