# Brushing (refinishing) Titanium



## dizave (May 27, 2007)

What's the best way to do this? I've got a brushed titanium frame that has some scratches that I would like to brush out (Ibis). I've picked up some of the green scotch-brite pads at Target and I did a tiny spot - but it didn't seem like it did what I wanted it to - is there a technique that works good for this? a certain direction that you should brush with - or is there a better product I could be using?

Thanks for any help! 

-Dave


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## crux (Jan 10, 2004)

Think that a fine steel wool is the way to go. Would attempt to fine the finest possible and start there. Since I have yet to refinish any of my frames will let someone a bit more educated/expirenced than my self chime in.


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## gm1230126 (Nov 4, 2005)

If it's scratches your trying to remove I'd try sandpaper but start fine and go coarser. Maybe start with 400g and then go to 320 or 220 if you need to. You may find that one of the grits closely matches the brushed appearance on your frame. Bead blasted Ti finish is tough to match unless you blast the area again.


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## dizave (May 27, 2007)

I'm afraid of steel wool because I've heard of pieces getting embedded in the titanium and then getting little rust pits - but the sand paper might be worth trying. I'm pretty sure this frame was not bead blasted - it really looks like it was a brushed finish. Does anyone know how the Ibis frames were done? I always thought the bead blasted frames had more of a matte (soft) finish?


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## gm1230126 (Nov 4, 2005)

I use "0000" steel wool with polish to keep a polished Ti frame looking good. If you wipe it down afterwards I don't think you'll ever have problems with steel wool. Yes the bead blasted ti is a softer finish like this one.


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## Guest (Feb 17, 2008)

Merlins typically have the "brushed" finished which indeed can be achieved using green Scotch brite. Brush the frame perpendicular to the tube, not along the tube or in circles. Make no sideway movements with the pad during the brushing. Just wrap the pad around the tube and then rotate it around the tube a few times.

The Ibis frames i know were blasted and had the typical matte finish but maybe someone has brushed your frame or got it that way from the factory. I have a brushed Ibis stem which looks very similar to the Merlin finish. Steelwool is indeed NOT recommended.


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## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

I'm feeling bad, having used steel wool (0000) on my Merlin now :madman: But, I did, and it looks great. That said, I did follow up with a good metal polish (Simichrome) which I did a good solid buffing in, followed by the "shoe shine" wrap around the tube, rapid movement polishing, and it looks stellar, Now I'm just hoping that it took out the potential particles.....


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## banks (Feb 2, 2004)

Red Scotch Brite pads First, then Green finish & with White.


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## ndbike (Jun 18, 2005)

When you guys mention Scotchbrite pads, are you talking about the ones you buy in the grocery store for washing dishes? If so, when "brushing" the frame with them, you do it dry, correct?

Sorry if this appears to be a series of stupid questions, but I want to make sure I do this right. I'm going to replace the decals on my Merlin Taiga and I thought while I had the frame nice and bare I would try to refinish it a bit. 

Thanks!


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## floibex (Feb 7, 2004)

banks said:


> Red Scotch Brite pads First, then Green finish & with White.


yep works best, especially if there are some slight scratches.

ciao
flo


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## banks (Feb 2, 2004)

ndbike said:


> When you guys mention Scotchbrite pads, are you talking about the ones you buy in the grocery store for washing dishes? If so, when "brushing" the frame with them, you do it dry, correct?


Hardware store will have the 3 colours, red green & white.

When you are finished, spray a heavy coat of Pledge on the whole frame and let it sit for at least 24h.


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## Forcemajeure (Aug 30, 2014)

bought some 3M scotchbrite and tried brushing them on ti frame and so far I'm impressed


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## LeeDumler (May 23, 2014)

Thanks for bumping this. I stripped an awful black powder coat off of my 89 Merlin a few months ago and hung it on the wall. Last week I picked up a nice fork for it, so it's getting closer to the top of my to do list. This advice will come in handy when I get to it.


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## 410sprint (Oct 19, 2012)

banks said:


> Hardware store will have the 3 colours, red green & white.
> 
> When you are finished, spray a heavy coat of Pledge on the whole frame and let it sit for at least 24h.


Auto parts and auto paint supply stores also have these pads. I have found you only need to use the Red (7447) first and then finish up with Gray (64660)


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## Pedalon2018 (Apr 24, 2018)

410sprint said:


> Auto parts and auto paint supply stores also have these pads. I have found you only need to use the Red (7447) first and then finish up with Gray (64660)


Lynskey Folks recommend Scotch Pad #7440 to remove scratches on the brushed finish. You can hear it on a Lynskey video on their finishes. I bought 5 pads for 27.00 USD including shipping. Works as advertised.


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## sbsbiker (Dec 1, 2007)

MendonCycleSmith said:


> I'm feeling bad, having used steel wool (0000) on my Merlin now :madman: But, I did, and it looks great. That said, I did follow up with a good metal polish (Simichrome) which I did a good solid buffing in, followed by the "shoe shine" wrap around the tube, rapid movement polishing, and it looks stellar, Now I'm just hoping that it took out the potential particles.....


Since this thread is back, Did you ever have any problems with steel wool "particles"?
I've never heard of this and so after 10 years if anything was going to happen it would have happened.


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## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

Nope, looking as sexy as ever, not sure what to make of that little tidbit of info. 

Maybe lesser grades of ti/finish had greater surface porosity/roughness, thus a greater propensity to capture those little buggers?


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