# Raceface Next SL 1x crankset



## gadget1 (Jul 12, 2009)

Anyone tried these

Race Face Next SL 1X Crankset 2014 > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

interested in them for a 1x11 XC 29er build.

Saw a post that didn't seem to rate them that highly...

or not

...they are damn light!


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## jon_ssss (Feb 20, 2009)

Pinkbike just reviewed them:

Race Face Next SL Cranks - Review - Pinkbike


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

$400 on sale with the ring is nice. XTR 985 requires a $68 wide-narrow chainring (sell the oem 985 rings to offset) and is slightly heavier, but it's not carbon which is a plus to many. I think the XX1 crankset is making the likes of the SL a difficult sell based purely on price. But some weight weenies don't factor in cost, just grams.

I'm suspect of the bearings in the RF. That Pinkbike, or another big thread, had RF rep and a seemingly knowledgeable guy going back and forth about the bearings and/or bearing shell design.

Still an interesting lightweight option for race bikes. Unfortunately I've never lost a race based on crankset weight so I may pass since it's not a difference maker. Plus the Jenson item is not even in stock. Guess one could apply the 20% coupon and just wait.


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

Hey guys, thanks for the interest in this crankset.

I just wanted to interject with a few points. Don't let the SL make you think this is a light duty crankset. At RF we don't make anything weaker that XT and this crank is no exception.

Regarding the price, you're correct that it isn't cheap. That said, at about a $100 premium over XX1 or XTR you get a fairly substantial 125g savings.

Thanks for riding Race Face.


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

XTR 985 with a single ring and no bb is about 150 grams heavier than the Next SL crank with single ring and no BB? Impressive.


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

westin said:


> XTR 985 with a single ring and no bb is about 150 grams heavier than the Next SL crank with single ring and no BB? Impressive.


Hey Westin - I stand corrected a little bit as I was looking at an M980. It's about 120g v. the M985. Weights will vary based on lengths, ring manufacturer and config but I think below is a pretty fair run down.

M985 arms - 501g
Shimano preloader - 4g
88mm BCD 32T ring - ~55g (WT)
Ring hardware - 7g

Total ~567g

Equivalent NEXT SL ~446g


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

I like your style, thanks for taking the time to put the info up.

My new frame needs about a 166Q factor and looking briefly at your site I don't think the Next SL is wide enough?? edit: found it's a 167 in 1x format? Next Gen Race Face Next SL Crankset Unveiled, 495 Grams All In ? Plus Wheels!

My only concern is found in this thread regarding the steel bearing races: http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenies/new-500gm-race-face-crankset-871109.html

I realize RF has outstanding customer service, but the best CS is the one you never have to use ala my XTR cranks. Just so happens I lost out on a fleabay auction for some S Works cranks, and it's time to build a new race bike for next season. Truly leaning toward the Next SL. Good gear!TE]


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## Motivated (Jan 13, 2004)

For an XX1 / SS crank I'm surprised RF doesn't make this crank in 180mm length arms. What gives?


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

Motivated said:


> For an XX1 / SS crank I'm surprised RF doesn't make this crank in 180mm length arms. What gives?


These cranks are made in our Canadian facility and require some pretty special tooling for the moulding process. The bottom line is that the demand is currently not high enough to justify the tooling cost.

Out of curiosity do you prefer 180's for leverage or are you a tall dude (>6'3", >35" inseam) looking for better ergonomics? The direct mount ring offers 26, 28, 30T options if you're just looking for better leverage than a 32T/175mm crank can give you.


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

Who has the Next SL 1x in stock? I think one European mailorder site has it for average price, but I can't find any US reputable dealers with anything in stock. Example: Jenson says they are waiting on RF. Holiday sales = lots of business. That whole "supply and demand" theory.


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

westin said:


> Who has the Next SL 1x in stock? I think one European mailorder site has it for average price, but I can't find any US reputable dealers with anything in stock. Example: Jenson says they are waiting on RF. Holiday sales = lots of business. That whole "supply and demand" theory.


All RF distributors and many retailers have cranks en route. These are proving very popular and move quickly once a dealer gets them.

If you e-mail [email protected] one of our sales guys should be able to put you in touch with a US dealer who has stock.

Thanks for riding Race Face.


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## YamaLink (Jun 23, 2010)

I didn't see it on their site, but Fanatik Bike Co. - Bellingham Wa - Intense, Turner, Ibis, Santa Cruz, Morewood, Evil, Cannondale, Norco, Felt, Surly... has some in stock. Don't know if they price match the likes of Jenson ($399.99 delivered with their 20% coupon...but not in stock).


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## Motivated (Jan 13, 2004)

RaceFace-suit said:


> These cranks are made in our Canadian facility and require some pretty special tooling for the moulding process. The bottom line is that the demand is currently not high enough to justify the tooling cost.
> 
> Out of curiosity do you prefer 180's for leverage or are you a tall dude (>6'3", >35" inseam) looking for better ergonomics? The direct mount ring offers 26, 28, 30T options if you're just looking for better leverage than a 32T/175mm crank can give you.


I am 6'4" and I tried 180mm Turbines like 10 years ago and have never owned 175s since then. The longer crank feels more natural - and not just pedaling, the broader stance is nice too.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## agoura_biker (Jun 6, 2004)

RaceFace-suit said:


> The direct mount ring offers 26, 28, 30T options if you're just looking for better leverage than a 32T/175mm crank can give you.


26T - great! That's what I've been looking for, the 28T available from XX1 is too tall for me. The direct mount ring is brilliant!:thumbsup: Too bad I just put together a XTR 2x10 drivetrain on my new bike. But I'll be thinking of this for the future.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

I am very interested in these cranks as I am slightly disappointed with how portly the XX1 cranks are. Id be interested to know how the Next SL cranks compare to XX1 GXP cranks with a 34 tooth ring weight wise.


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

Rick Draper said:


> I am very interested in these cranks as I am slightly disappointed with how portly the XX1 cranks are. Id be interested to know how the Next SL cranks compare to XX1 GXP cranks with a 34 tooth ring weight wise.


RF NEXT SL is 450g with a 34T ring (no BB)

The interweb tells me XX1 GXP and BB30 with a 34T and no BB are 572g and 562g respectively.

SRAM XX1 Component Group ? Actual Weights

https://cerrol.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/imag0623.jpg


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## CrashTheDOG (Jan 4, 2004)

Just ordered a pair of Next SL's with a 30T ring! Can anyone comment on the available bottom bracket options that are compatible with the larger diameter spindle?


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

Any PF30 will work, but there are a few higher-end options with better durability such as Chris King and the Enduro XD-15. The King can be found on sale at the likes of Artscyclery with a coupon while the XD-15 is pretty much msrp.

Mind me asking where you found your arms and ring in stock?

Just weighed my 175mm M985 arms and 30T ring with chainring bolts (nothing else): 552g. FYI, one Clif Shot Blok weighs 65 grams so there is about 2 Clif Shot Bloks difference between the Next SL 1x.

But using a Praxis Conversion bb with the XTR in a BB30 frame is 151 grams which is about 50g more than a durable PF30 bb such as King or XD-15 so now the diff is back up to about 115g.



CrashTheDOG said:


> Just ordered a pair of Next SL's with a 30T ring! Can anyone comment on the available bottom bracket options that are compatible with the larger diameter spindle?


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## CrashTheDOG (Jan 4, 2004)

westin said:


> Mind me asking where you found your arms and ring in stock?


LBS ordered it from BTI.


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## padrefan1982 (Mar 2, 2005)

Universal has some in stock as well, or at least did. Not a lot though.


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## danK (Jan 15, 2004)

Reputable US online seller had one in stock, a 175mm 30T. Exactly what I needed. Asked about Black Friday coupons/sales and they were not having any, but a 15% coupon did exist.


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## ruckse (Nov 3, 2011)

I am interested in this crankset but I think the chainline of 51mm isn`t ideal for my bike. Is there a possibility to modify the chainline ( 49mm would be good)?


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## CrashTheDOG (Jan 4, 2004)

I just received my NEXT SL cranks and after reading the extremely basic installation instruction the only item I'm unsure of is how to space the Enduro PF30 XD-15 bottom bracket correctly to achieve the requested "98.1mm +/- 1.0mm". Granted I haven't received the XD-15 yet, or for that matter the frame this is all getting installed in, so I'm not sure what spacers are included from Enduro. Regardless, when I compare the Enduro which houses the bearing inside of the BB shell with the Race Face PF30 BB which houses the bearings outside of the bottom bracket shell I'm doubtful the Enduro XD-15 is going to work. Any one want to take a stab at this?


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## CrashTheDOG (Jan 4, 2004)

Maybe this what the PF30 XD-15 looks like installed. The website does mention "spindle spacers" are included and maybe they're just not shown in the photo I posted above.


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

CrashTheDOG said:


> I just received my NEXT SL [...] the only item I'm unsure of is how to space the Enduro PF30 XD-15 bottom bracket correctly to achieve the requested "98.1mm +/- 1.0mm".


Hey Crash -

Traditional PF30 like BB30 produces an overall width that is the same as the shell width. Hence the XD-15 width should be 73mm wide when installed. In addition to the wide Race Face PF30 system you showed above we also offer spacer kits to adapt back down to to the traditional width.

E-mail [email protected] or have your LBS order spacer kit F10010.

Thanks for riding Race Face!


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## CrashTheDOG (Jan 4, 2004)

Thanks for the reply! Do you think the use of the spacer kit along with the narrower bearing stance of the XD-15 will cause any long term durability issues?


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

CrashTheDOG said:


> Thanks for the reply! Do you think the use of the spacer kit along with the narrower bearing stance of the XD-15 will cause any long term durability issues?


I wouldn't expect any durability issues. System stiffness will be marginally lower but not likely perceivable.

-RF


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## CrashTheDOG (Jan 4, 2004)

RF, at nearly a fourth of the cost of the XD-15 I think I'll start with the Race Face BB and see if it gives me any grief. Also, while I've got your attention, Pink Bike's review mentions, "Race Face has said that the cranks are currently being shipped with tape already in place." My cranks didn't come with any tape installed. Is this something I can order from RF?


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## CrashTheDOG (Jan 4, 2004)

Race Face Next SL w/30t DM = ~430g (crank boots add another ~16g)


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

A riding buddy picked up the crank/30T combo on a Black Friday sale. Screaming deal! He was very happy when I told him your weight was less than claimed! I would put some clear frame saver tape on.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

CrashTheDOG said:


> "Race Face has said that the cranks are currently being shipped with tape already in place."


The Next SL crank on my new bike did have some tape on the right arm only, but it was very soft and thin, and peeled off as soon as my heel contacted it. It did not look like it was meant for serious protection, more like protection from shipping/installation damage. I peeled off the rest of it and installed something durable. I added the boots, too.

One additional caveat: Make sure the crank is fully seated and the preload ring is properly tightened. Mine wasn't seated at the factory and it shifted to the left on the first ride. It was a simple matter to check that it was seated and tighten the preload ring. After readjusting the front derailleur, everything is fine now.

This isn't a complaint, just an explanation of what I observed. So far, I love the way it shifts.


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

deleted


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## cale399 (Oct 18, 2008)

will the Next Sl go straight into a PF30 BB that I have on my new Specialized Epic WC??? Or do I have to purchase additional hardware/new BB and or adaptor kit?
thx this crank is sick looking!!!!


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## CrashTheDOG (Jan 4, 2004)

Cale399, I believe you would need the Race Face spacer kit (part no. F10010). Check out RaceFace-suit's earlier response.



RaceFace-suit said:


> Traditional PF30 like BB30 produces an overall width that is the same as the shell width. Hence the XD-15 width should be 73mm wide when installed. In addition to the wide Race Face PF30 system you showed above we also offer spacer kits to adapt back down to to the traditional width.
> 
> E-mail [email protected] or have your LBS order spacer kit F10010.


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## CuddlyToast (Oct 30, 2013)

For what it's worth, I have used 2 generations of Next SL cranks. They are bar none, one of the best cranks out there. I have hit my fair share of rocks, and they have held up great. I do recommend the boots though.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

CuddlyToast said:


> For what it's worth, I have used 2 generations of Next SL cranks. They are bar none, one of the best cranks out there. I have hit my fair share of rocks, and they have held up great. I do recommend the boots though.


Want some. Would drop 10oz over my current cranks!


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

Can I use them on a BB30 bike without getting any other parts?
I think, but am not sure about PF30 and BB30 cranks being identical.


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## ruckse (Nov 3, 2011)

Anybody knows what are these two washers for which come with the crankset?


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

It comes with pedal washers, if that's what you're referring to.


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## ruckse (Nov 3, 2011)

Ok thanks, its for the pedals. I never used washers for pedals.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

Check the instructions, but I think Raceface is pretty adamant that they be used. FSA does the same thing. The washers help with both tightening and loosening the pedals.


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## ruckse (Nov 3, 2011)

Thanks, problem solved, the question about the funktion of these washers is answered (the instructions dont give any information about these washers, maybe I should have known this).


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## n1x0n (May 23, 2012)

What do I need to install to install a Raceface Next SL 1x crankset together with the rest of my XX1 gear. My frame is PF30 (NINER AIR 9, 2013 model). What kind of BB and eventual spacers is needed to get correct chainline ?

Also, my frame supports maximum 34T cog. Is this the same maximum size of cog for raceface cranskset ?


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## deepwat3r (Aug 20, 2013)

My Next SL cranks have been sitting on my workbench for almost a week now because none of the (10 or so I called) shops in the SF bay area have the special wrench you need to install the BSA30 bottom bracket, and I didn't know I needed it either. Called a dozen retailers trying to find someone nearby who stocked one but had to settle for ordering from across the country 

Was kind of fun to have all the guys at my LBS crowded around drooling over these cranks though!


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## n1x0n (May 23, 2012)

I ordered an Park Tool BBT-22 at the same time


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

The BBT-22 is only for needed for installing the rings on the crank and it's a standard tool that all shops will have.

However, the Next SL also requires a special tool for the BSA 30 bottom bracket, which is probably what deepwat3r was referring to. BSA 30 is another new BB "standard" and it allows 30mm spindle cranks (EDIT: but *NOT* BB30 or PF30) to be used on frames with BSA threaded bottom brackets. Race Face, Rotor and Enduro sell BSA 30 tools. It looks like I'm going to need one...

If your frame has a BB30 or PF30 bottom bracket, you obviously don't need the BSA 30 tool.


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

Bnystrom said:


> BSA 30 is another new BB "standard" and it allows 30mm spindle cranks (BB30, PF30) to be used on frames with BSA threaded bottom brackets. Race Face, Rotor and Enduro sell BSA 30 tools.


BSA30 BB's do not allows BB30/PF30 cranks to fit threaded shells. The spindle is too short on true BB30/PF30 cranks.

Regarding the tool - The splines on the BSA30 BB cup are larger than a standard Shimano external BB. This is because of the the larger bearing that BSA30 BB's use. Though technically this is not a new BB standard.

You are correct that the RF, Enduro and Rotor tools are interchangeable. Also the tool used for the now discontinued Zipp Vuma Quad will work.



n1x0n said:


> What do I need to install to install a Raceface Next SL 1x crankset together with the rest of my XX1 gear. My frame is PF30 (NINER AIR 9, 2013 model). What kind of BB and eventual spacers is needed to get correct chainline ?
> 
> Also, my frame supports maximum 34T cog. Is this the same maximum size of cog for raceface cranskset ?


You need a:

NEXT SL crank - If you buy the ring and armset separately you'll need a Park tool BBT-22 (every bike shop will have one). If the crank arrives assembled you do not need this tool

A RF PF30 BB (or a competitor BB with RF spacer kit F10010). This requires some form of bearing or headset press to install (The same as any PF BB requires). All spacers are included with the BB.

An 8mm Hex key to install the crank.

Direct mount rings are available in even sizes from 26-36T. If Niner recommends no larger than a 34T I would go with that.

I hope this helps,
RF


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## n1x0n (May 23, 2012)

I also have an homemade PF30 bottom bracket tool, guess that will work. I'm expecting delivery of the crank next week. Exited to see the result. With the new DM chainring you can flip it and gain 3mm chainline so I really hope a 36T will fit even though frame spec says 34T with XX1


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

n1x0n said:


> With the new DM chainring you can flip it and gain 3mm chainline so I really hope a 36T will fit even though frame spec says 34T with XX1


Not quite.

I think you are referring to our ability to flip the DM ring in conjunction with a shorter spindle on fat bike applications. Doing so on a fatbike (flipping the ring and changing the spindle results in a 75mm chainline for 190mm rear ends but offering a 202mm Q-factor.

Simply flipping the ring on a regular 135/142mm rear would result in a 7mm outboard chain line. This would not do good things for your rear shifting. As such, it is not recommended.

RF


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

RaceFace-suit said:


> BSA30 BB's do not allows BB30/PF30 cranks to fit threaded shells. The spindle is too short on true BB30/PF30 cranks.


Thank you for clarifying this. I will edit my original post to eliminate any possible confusion.


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## deepwat3r (Aug 20, 2013)

Bnystrom said:


> However, the Next SL also requires a special tool for the BSA 30 bottom bracket, which is probably what deepwat3r was referring to.


Exactly, it's the BSA 30 BB I was talking about. Post edited 

Good luck finding the wrench, I've cancelled two orders already from vendors who claimed it was in-stock when they didn't actually have any.

Race Face you should *seriously* consider including this tool with the BB since they are seemingly impossible to get.


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

This is exactly the reason why I haven't ordered the cranks. I don't want to spend hundreds for an extensive paper weight. (I'm repeating myself in another Next SL crankset thread in the weight weenies forum.)



deepwat3r said:


> Exactly, it's the BSA 30 BB I was talking about. Post edited
> 
> Good luck finding the wrench, I've cancelled two orders already from vendors who claimed it was in-stock when they didn't actually have any.
> 
> Race Face you should *seriously* consider including this tool with the BB since they are seemingly impossible to get.


Hopefully someone at RF will figure this out sooner or later.


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

deepwat3r said:


> Race Face you should *seriously* consider including this tool with the BB since they are seemingly impossible to get.


Thanks for the feedback. I've passed the suggestion on. The thinking is that if you get the Cinch system on multiple bikes you don't want the cost of a wrench driving the BB price up.

I found a shop close to you that has a wrench you can use for the install. They are open today:

Break Away Bikes
http://www.breakawaybikes.org
5430 Commerce Blvd
Rohnert Park, CA 94928
707-586-3400



MarkMass said:


> This is exactly the reason why I haven't ordered the cranks. I don't want to spend hundreds for an extensive paper weight. (I'm repeating myself in another Next SL crankset thread in the weight weenies forum.)


Keep in mind that the features of this crank that are causing trouble are also the ones that give it the biggest advantages over its competitors. We are always trying to improve and will take this feedback to heart.

RF


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

For those of you not in CA, these guys usually have stock. Bikeman RaceFace Next SL Wrench Crank Tool for BSA30

As always you can e-mail [email protected] if you need help finding product.

RF


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## deepwat3r (Aug 20, 2013)

Thanks, that makes sense, and it's only a matter of time before most shops will have the tool. A minor inconvenience in the grand scope of things. 

Break Away is indeed right around the corner, I called them a couple days ago and they said they didn't have it but evidently one of the employees brought in his personal one so I'm on my way down there presently. Very excited to be able to ride with these cranks tomorrow, thanks!


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## n1x0n (May 23, 2012)

Hmm ok, think there is some confusion around this subject.

XX1 has 49mm chainline with 168 q-factor. Raceface has 51mm ?

Crank spec from Raceface:
XX1 comes in 2 chainline/1-factor options and our Next SL would have a 1mm wider Q-Factor than the wider XX1’s Q-Factor. The chainline would be slightly more narrow than the XX1 as we chose to offset the chainline more to the bigger cogs as this is where the majority of the cassette wear will be done and many riders will spend most of their time in these cogs. We based the chainline on our new Next SL DM rings off the XX1 and XO1 drivetrains, so there should be no adjustments necessary for swaping out the cranks. If you get the Race Face PF30 CINCH BB, there will be no spacers required and it will drop right into your frame! Another cool feature of the Next SL’s is our DM rings are offset so you have an additional 3mm of clearance if you flip the chainrings.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Got round to ordering a Next SL1 chainset for my Bronson. I cannot wait to get it and install it.


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## deoreo (Aug 26, 2005)

Yeah, n1x0n I don't understand that either. Where did you get that info?

I would think the 49mm chainline would be closer to the 42T cassette cog than a 51mm chainline.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

deoreo said:


> Yeah, n1x0n I don't understand that either. Where did you get that info?
> 
> I would think the 49mm chainline would be closer to the 42T cassette cog than a 51mm chainline.


That's the way chainline is normally expressed, the higher the number, the farther the ring is from the centerline of the frame.


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## n1x0n (May 23, 2012)

deoreo said:


> Yeah, n1x0n I don't understand that either. Where did you get that info?
> 
> I would think the 49mm chainline would be closer to the 42T cassette cog than a 51mm chainline.


I had some mail conversation with [email protected]
Not really sure what is means in pratice.

With a 51mm chain line, I guess the chain comes 2mm further out ..at least if you compare to XX1.


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

The chainline is indeed 51mm. This means that the chain is straight between the 4th and 5th cogs. If it we had used 49mm it still would have been straight between the 4th and 5th cogs (2mm difference is not a whole rear cog spacing). The difference in chain angle is ~0.27deg between 49mm and 51mm.

This was done because:

-	This matches the standard middle ring position used by Shimano.
-	Matches our NW 104 rings so performance is consistent across RF product
-	The majority of rough riding will be done in the 4th cog +/- 3cogs

Also the Next SL Q-factor is 167mm.


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## deepwat3r (Aug 20, 2013)

Got the cranks installed and torture-tested yesterday. Picked up a few scrapes but they performed perfectly. The protection tape stayed in place and did the job, as did the boots.

A question for RaceFace: to customize the crank bolt color, do I need 1 Crank Puller / Extraction Cap, and 1 Crank Bolt, or 1 bolt and 2 Caps? On the non-drive side it looks to be all one piece?


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

deepwat3r said:


> A question for RaceFace: to customize the crank bolt color, do I need 1 Crank Puller / Extraction Cap, and 1 Crank Bolt, or 1 bolt and 2 Caps? On the non-drive side it looks to be all one piece?


For the stock setup you want one each of these part numbers:

F30026XXX Puller Cap
F30025XXX NDS Bolt

XXX = Colour Code

BLU = Blue
RED = Red
GRN = Green

Is you prefer to have puller caps on both sides (for spindles swaps) you'll want:

F30026XXX Puller Cap (qty 2)
F30024 DS Crank Bolt (qty 1)


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## Jamie_MTB (Nov 18, 2004)

Raceface-suit can i order the spacer kit F10010 online?
Cheers


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

Jamie_MTB said:


> Raceface-suit can i order the spacer kit F10010 online?
> Cheers


Sounds like a good question for [email protected]. I'm of more use on the tech side of things but Devyn will sort you out.

RF


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Got my Next SL cranks. They are superb, very light. The big letdown is the drive side arm has a crank skin on it, the none drive side has nothing on it. Pretty annoying as I am not going to run them until I have sorted this out.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

As I mentioned above, I don't think that the factory tape is designed to do anything other than protect the logo during shipping and installation. It started shredding and peeling off the first time my heel touched it during a ride and the rest of it peeled off with almost no effort. I applied some real protective tape and installed a pair of boots before I did any significant riding.


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## deoreo (Aug 26, 2005)

Thanks for the info about the chainline RaceFace-suit!


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## kdiddy (Jul 14, 2005)

Check out the crankskins from Crankskins for these cranks. They should provide better protection than the stock one(s) and can add color if you are into that.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

kdiddy said:


> Check out the crankskins from Crankskins for these cranks. They should provide better protection than the stock one(s) and can add color if you are into that.


I had a pair of those knocking round from some old Truvativ cranks so I have fitted them for now and ordered a pack of the full wrap ones.


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

Rick Draper said:


> Got my Next SL cranks. They are superb, very light. The big letdown is the drive side arm has a crank skin on it, the none drive side has nothing on it. Pretty annoying as I am not going to run them until I have sorted this out.


Sorry about the issue Rick, not quite sure how QC missed that one (must have been the Friday shift!). If you can email me ([email protected]) your mailing address I'll set you up with some replacements. Thanks!

-Devyn
CS & Sales Guru


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## padrefan1982 (Mar 2, 2005)

Sorry of the (maybe) stupid question. I've done some searches, but currently, I'm either a poor reader or suck at inter webs...

I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this, but this new world of cranksets has me a little thrown off, and want to make sure I know what I'm doing before I order. Currently own a '13 Spec. Epic with a PF30 BB set up. If my BB is still running strong, can I simply install these cranks, or do they need the Cinch BB as well?


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

RF-suit/Devyn: Thanks for the support! I'm waiting for an email when the 175mm x 32 single ring cranks are in-stock.

Padrefan1982: I'd imagine you only need the cranks and can use your existing PF30 BB.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

I believe that there is also a Race Face spacer kit required. The part number may be in one of the previous posts.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

*Devyn, I'd appreciate that, too.*



RaceFace-suit said:


> Sorry about the issue Rick, not quite sure how QC missed that one (must have been the Friday shift!). If you can email me ([email protected]) your mailing address I'll set you up with some replacements. Thanks!
> 
> -Devyn
> CS & Sales Guru


As I mentioned, mine only had some soft tape on the right arm and nothing on the left. Other than that, the cranks have been great!


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Has anyone compared the direct mount Race Face chainring splines with the spines on SRAM, Specialized or Cannondale?

I already have different size directmount rings for the above cranks....wondering if anything can be used on The Next cranks.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Sram won't work. Not sure on the others.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Rick Draper said:


> Sram won't work. Not sure on the others.


Do you know how far the fit is off?
With a little filing....the SRAM style will fit Specialized and vice versa ( and once tightened down...has no problems.)


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Sram:







Raceface:


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

^^
Thanks!
I 'm gonna need a bigger file....


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## J_K (Jan 18, 2010)

I just got fat bike version of the cranks.
Great product, but at this price they really should come up with all the needed spacers. Mine are missing 11.5mm spindle spacers, hopefully I can get them quickly from them.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

Rick Draper said:


> Sram:
> View attachment 860492
> 
> Raceface:
> View attachment 860493


Judging from the difference in spline shape, it looks like a pretty risky proposition to file these to fit. The result is likely to be an imprecise fit with much less contact surface between the spider/ring and the crank arm which could end up ruining the splines on the arm. That's a pretty expensive way to save the cost of buying another spider/ring, not to mention the fact that a failure could also leave you stranded. It doesn't make sense to spend good money on a nice crank, then cheap-out on the chainring.

Maybe your were kidding about filing to fit and I just missed the joke.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Bnystrom said:


> Maybe your were kidding about filing to fit and I just missed the joke.


How about a big rock and a dull chisel? Do you think that would be a better choice?


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

the mayor said:


> How about a big rock and a dull chisel? Do you think that would be a better choice?


The recommended procedure is:


Find the ring/spider that fits the crank, in the size you need.
Buy it.
Install it.
Ride, worry free. :thumbsup:


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Bnystrom said:


> The recommended procedure is:
> 
> 
> Find the ring/spider that fits the crank, in the size you need.
> ...


So that's a yes to the big rock and dull chisel. Thanks for your insight.


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

I got my cranks in a 3x configuration and bought a separate 32t chainring to swap over (1x setups were all out of stock). 3x cranks and 32t chainring:



My cranks didn't come with any protective film like others on this thread. I'll drop RF a note about that.

It was a bit ackward/tricky removing the lockring to remove the triple chainring cluster. I got it off and installed the 32t direct mount chainring without stripping anything. 

My Blur LTc has a threaded bottom bracket so I ordered the RF BSA30 BB and the BB socket tool from RWC/Enduro. BSA30 BB and BB socket/install tool from RealWorldCycling/Enduro:



The BB threaded in with my fingers and I only used the socket to tighten it down. Note: I used the 34-41 N-m. The converted "35-44 in-lb" is way off.

Installed!



Installation was very smooth and easy. The directions were minimalist and included everything you needed to know.

The 1x chainring seems resilient, but I bought a MRP G3 chainguide w/integated bash in case I need some protection.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

That reminds me, I found the Race Face bottom bracket wrench in stock at Tree Fort Bikes for $22 plus shipping.


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## Dikkie (Dec 16, 2005)

The teeth of the Sram chainring look wider while the RF chainring looks more pointy.
I guess the Sram ones will hold the chain better on a 1x11 drive train??
Also I'm wondering if the chain line isn't to much to the outside on the RF Next Sl crankset in combination with an XX1 or X01 cassette because the 42 t cog is dished toward the spokes.
The chain may run very crooked when climbing in the easiest gear on a short-chainstay-bike.


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

Quick update:
The cranks are great! Look great, stiff, and spiiiiin nicely. These are for "trail" riding so I didn't hesitate on hitting jumps and drops. 

I had one dropped chain (to the outside) in two rides. Same pattern as the RF NW chainring: jumps are fine and drops occur when I'm turning through choppy terrain. I have a 1x9 setup, with a non-clutch long cage XTR derailleur.

Devyn/RF-suit is sending me some crank protection film. I'm currently using some Crankskins for my old Next SL cranks.


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## padrefan1982 (Mar 2, 2005)

Jamie_MTB said:


> Raceface-suit can i order the spacer kit F10010 online?
> Cheers


Jamie-- How/did did you end acquiring the spacer kit? It turns out I need them as well for my BB30 set up. I emailed RaceFace this afternoon... It was late in the day, so I wasn't expecting a response today; Just curious! I wasn't in a hurry to install them before they arrived... but now that they're in my hands... I want them on the bike!


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

I installed my G3 MRP chainguide. I wanted the bash protection and to stop chain drops. Installation was quick and simple with the instructions from MRP. You'll see that there's no way you can aligned it to the 12-12:30 position relative to the BB per the instructions on a Blur LTc--I asked MRP about it and they said it's okay.



I went out for a ride and didn't have any drops. The chainguide was super quiet when I wasn't pedaling.

I had the raise the position of the top guide to near/at the top so it wouldn't rub while pedaling through pumps. The top guide was centered perfectly with the chainring, but I had some rubbing/squeaking coming from the bottom pulley. After I got home I put another 1mm washer behind the guide (now 2mm) in the ISCG 05 mount hole closest to the pulley. That seemed to solve the rubbing problem.

Also, I got the crank film (and more stickers) from Devyn/RF-suit in the mail! Thanks :thumbsup:



MarkMass said:


> Quick update:
> I had one dropped chain (to the outside) in two rides. Same pattern as the RF NW chainring: jumps are fine and drops occur when I'm turning through choppy terrain.
> 
> Devyn/RF-suit is sending me some crank protection film. I'm currently using some Crankskins for my old Next SL cranks.


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## J_K (Jan 18, 2010)

J_K said:


> I just got fat bike version of the cranks.
> Great product, but at this price they really should come up with all the needed spacers. Mine are missing 11.5mm spindle spacers, hopefully I can get them quickly from them.


I'm still missing my spacers. Normally even letters from Canada comes about in a week, now it's almost three weeks.
None of the sets shop had in stock had the spacers included. I need my spacers now 
Looks like I have to get some spacers made as I need them next week.


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## mik8yu (Jul 25, 2012)

I am looking at the raceface next SL for my Banshee Rune V2. I am a noob when it comes to bottom bracket format. Can someone tell me which one do I need(format, spacer needed??)? Many thanks

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## Falldog (Sep 30, 2005)

I am looking at the 2014 Race Face NEXT SL 10 Speed Triple Crankset. Long ago I read an article from Zinn about "System Integration" where all components of the drive chain work together for efficient, quick shifting. Thus, i've tried to stay all Shimano in my builds. Does the NEXT SL Triple chain rings have the same ramps and tooth pattern as the XTR FC-M980? Will it shift as quick? I would like to use the NEXT SL crankset with a ChrisKing PF30 Bottom Bracket. Will I need an adapter?


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## padrefan1982 (Mar 2, 2005)

Falldog said:


> I am looking at the 2014 Race Face NEXT SL 10 Speed Triple Crankset. Long ago I read an article from Zinn about "System Integration" where all components of the drive chain work together for efficient, quick shifting. Thus, i've tried to stay all Shimano in my builds. Does the NEXT SL Triple chain rings have the same ramps and tooth pattern as the XTR FC-M980? Will it shift as quick? I would like to use the NEXT SL crankset with a ChrisKing PF30 Bottom Bracket. Will I need an adapter?


Falldog-- While Zinn's a smart guy, I've had absolutely no issues using recent RF chain rings. Ran their Turbine chainrings up until last year, and they shifted just as well to me as Sram/Shimano rings. Others may disagree, but I believe that FD set up, clean rings/chains and the rider's own shifting technique play a far bigger role in front shifting, especially for mere mortals like me!

To run the Next with another brand's PF30 BB, you will need a kit-- F10010 -- I believe. RaceFace (their email) suggested I acquire it from Fanatik Bikes or Bikeman.com, as RF said they have them in stock (but I didn't find it searching their sites... because its a small part, I could see it not being listed)

This link was super helpful for me... http://www.raceface.com/comp/inst/BBchart-x2.pdf


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## Falldog (Sep 30, 2005)

Thanks for the input. I wrote to RaceFace and they confirm same spacer part number (F10010).


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

Some info about RF's manufacturing process:

Race Face - Made in Canada - Pinkbike


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## mik8yu (Jul 25, 2012)

With the narrow wide chain ring can I really do without a chain guide? Am planning to run a 1x10 setup with a m820 saint rear dr. Thanks !


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## mik8yu (Jul 25, 2012)

Mine arrived. Super efficient shipping from art's.









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## Resnick (Apr 6, 2006)

I have a set of 170mm on order, hey RF Suit, when's the next shipment to Local shops (North Van). OR could I just show up at the factory with a fist full of dollars ;-).

Also, I'm a bit confused about the bottom Bracket install. I'm getting the BSA30, can it be installed with a standard external cup BB Tool, or do I need the RF tool new one?

Thanks!


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

Resnick said:


> I have a set of 170mm on order, hey RF Suit, when's the next shipment to Local shops (North Van). OR could I just show up at the factory with a fist full of dollars ;-).
> 
> Also, I'm a bit confused about the bottom Bracket install. I'm getting the BSA30, can it be installed with a standard external cup BB Tool, or do I need the RF tool new one?
> 
> Thanks!


Sorry you need the Raceface bsa30 tool.


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## mik8yu (Jul 25, 2012)

There's supposed to be a protective tape to prevent the crank from scratches? Does it only cover the next sl logo? Am not sure if what I have is it.


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## cornice6 (Aug 23, 2007)

Looks like Art's cyclery has the last one 170mm in stock but I have to purchase the chainring separately. Will the chainring fit right into the crankarm if I am running it as a 1X or do I need a spider? I am guessing not but I thought I ask before I pull the trigger. A TIA!





Edit: Purchased it and looks like all's I need is an ISIS BB tool to install the chainring to the crank. :thumbsup:


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## badlybrokenboy (Mar 5, 2008)

Where is everyone ordering from? I'm excited to replace my SLX with something sexier.
but most places do not have them in stock online?

I'm in search of a 175mm 32t Version.


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## Falldog (Sep 30, 2005)

I wanted a Next SL with Triple chainring. In one moment Price Point showed "In Stock", so I ordered it. Next day i get a call that it was not 'really' in stock. So I canceled my order.
Pro Bike Supply got me straight. They had the spacer kit as well. I think they had to build the Triple crankset. Meaning, they had arms and rings for a 1x or 2x setup. The 3x rings came in a few days later. Just got a tracking number. I should get them by the end of the week.

Other option was Bikeman.com


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## Burnt-Orange (Dec 10, 2008)

where can I buy the 73mm spindle ....
I got the 170mm snow bike cranks and might want to put them on my stumpy


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## badlybrokenboy (Mar 5, 2008)

Ordered from Bikeman.com thanks!


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## MTT77 (Aug 24, 2010)

I hope these are worth the wait. I had ordered 175 / 30T "in stock" from Price Point back in mid-January, only to find out they weren't really in stock. Delivery date keeps getting pushed back (now early April). The snow is starting to melt, and this is last part of a new build that I need! If I hadn't got such a sweet deal from PP, I would have cancelled the order and looked elsewhere, but saving $150 is keeping me from doing that.


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

I've only had mine for a few months, but I'm loving them. They're super light, but I'm confident when I hit jumps and features.

I guess I was fortunate when I ordered as stock was super limited they went out-of-stock quickly.



MTT77 said:


> I hope these are worth the wait. I had ordered 175 / 30T "in stock" from Price Point back in mid-January, only to find out they weren't really in stock. Delivery date keeps getting pushed back (now early April).


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## NoManerz (Feb 10, 2006)

MTT77 said:


> I hope these are worth the wait. I had ordered 175 / 30T "in stock" from Price Point back in mid-January, only to find out they weren't really in stock. Delivery date keeps getting pushed back (now early April). The snow is starting to melt, and this is last part of a new build that I need! If I hadn't got such a sweet deal from PP, I would have cancelled the order and looked elsewhere, but saving $150 is keeping me from doing that.


I'm in the same boat! My order has been pushed back over 3 times and the eta now is unknown they told me?? Might have to throw a budget pair on the bike since this is the last part I need.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Mine are amazing, super stiff but yet feel the weight compared to a XX1 chainset and you would not believe its as stiff and strong as it is. Without question its a fantastic upgrade, I love mine. Ive never owned any Raceface stuff before, these have me totally gobsmacked, utterly stunning.


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

For those searching, artscyclery has the 170mm arms in stock and rings. Use youtube20 coupon which expires today or tomorrow.


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## beachbum1 (Oct 2, 2012)

Man I wish mine would come. I ordered mine february 15th from Jenson and they were expected to be in in 2 weeks. After that didn't pan out, I got a revised estimate of 3/31. I just called today and still no cranks. They must be pretty awesome/popular cranks.


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## Andrew8404 (Nov 20, 2011)

399 shipped from backcountry with save20 code.


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## beachbum1 (Oct 2, 2012)

Looks like they are on back order too


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## Andrew8404 (Nov 20, 2011)

beachbum1 said:


> Looks like they are on back order too


They said they should have them in stock around the 20th.

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## broccoli rob (Jul 3, 2012)

I got a 30t at universal cycles today for $385. I think there are 28t available too but only a few of each. Use coupon code "springclassics15" to get the 15% discount.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Mine have finally shipped from Arts Cyclery and they have re-listed them so looks like they have some in stock, unsure of any current discount vouchers.


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## beachbum1 (Oct 2, 2012)

Broccoli rob,

THanks for the tip. I ordered a 28t as soon as I saw your post! I have been waiting since mid february and, with no cranks in sight, decided to to jump on this.


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## S.O.B. (Mar 17, 2008)

shiny said:


> Mine have finally shipped from Arts Cyclery and they have re-listed them so looks like they have some in stock, unsure of any current discount vouchers.


Just purchased the crank arms (170) ring (30) and bottom bracket (68/73) from Arts Cyclery using the coupon code save15 (found with a quick google search) and also free shipping. Price Point has some in stock as do a few other places I looked, but I really wanted the 170mm arm, 30t ring combo so this was a good find. Never heard of Arts Cyclery so thanks for the tip.


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## broccoli rob (Jul 3, 2012)

beachbum1 said:


> Broccoli rob,
> 
> THanks for the tip. I ordered a 28t as soon as I saw your post! I have been waiting since mid february and, with no cranks in sight, decided to to jump on this.


Glad you got your hands on some. Looks like they are already out of stock. Picked mine up today, very nice.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

S.O.B. said:


> Just purchased the crank arms (170) ring (30) and bottom bracket (68/73) from Arts Cyclery using the coupon code save15 (found with a quick google search) and also free shipping. Price Point has some in stock as do a few other places I looked, but I really wanted the 170mm arm, 30t ring combo so this was a good find. Never heard of Arts Cyclery so thanks for the tip.


No worries, mine arrived on my desk this morning. Super fast international shipping. These cranks are light! Thought the box may have been empty. Hopefully get them installed over the weekend.


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## MTT77 (Aug 24, 2010)

Question for the guys that have installed the cranks. Mine finally arrived. My LBS installed the BB, and I was planning to install the cranks myself. However, it seems like I would need to push the spline WAY to hard to get it through the BB. How hard was it to slide the spline through the BB for you?


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

MTT77 said:


> Question for the guys that have installed the cranks. Mine finally arrived. My LBS installed the BB, and I was planning to install the cranks myself. However, it seems like I would need to push the spline WAY to hard to get it through the BB. How hard was it to slide the spline through the BB for you?


If I remember right I had to tap mine with a rubber hammer.


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## MTT77 (Aug 24, 2010)

Thanks, the instructions say "hand press", so I wasn't too sure I should be banging away with the mallet


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

I gave them a firm hit with my fist! 

I had two rides before I wrecked a rear mech, but in those two rides, super smooth quiet cranks!


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

It definitely takes some pressure to install the crank, which is probably why the one that came on my bike last fall wasn't fully seated. I gave it a moderate rap with a rubber mallet and that did the trick.


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## RSAmerica (Aug 24, 2012)

On my cranks with the BSA30 BB the plastic sleeve caused the the spindle to bind. The plastic sleeve cracked. I removed the sleeve and the spindle went together fine.

Also my bike has 68mm BB shell, I had to run one spacer on the drive side to get good chain line for 2x10. And put two spacers on the non-drive side (this is opposite of the spec). It shifts fine but the non drive crank is out more then I like, I move me cleat to compensate. These cranks have a higher Q factor then my old XTR crank.

With my new XPEDO Ti pedals I dropped ~ 200gram around 1/4 lbs of rotating weight over the old XTR pedal/cranks setup. I can feel the difference pedaling.


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## RSAmerica (Aug 24, 2012)




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## Torque Wrench (Oct 17, 2005)

I just installed mine with a RaceFace narrow-wide chainring and I'm truly impressed with the quality. When I spin it by hand the chainring is true and round. None of my XX1 stuff is even close to being true and round.


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## CYCLEJCE (Nov 2, 2010)

Too bad there arent any realistic options to fit 83mm BB's. Been drooling over these for a few months, but is wasnt meant to be.


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## Fastblack (Jul 8, 2013)

Are there any colored direct mount chainrings for these? Was really hoping for one.


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

Fastblack said:


> Are there any colored direct mount chainrings for these? Was really hoping for one.


Hey Fastblack,

We'll have coloured Direct Mount CINCH rings ready to ship in just a few weeks! We leaked a couple photos on our Insta account a few days ago, so you can check them out there (Instagram). Thanks!


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## Fastblack (Jul 8, 2013)

Those look great, thanks. Any idea what MSRP will be, or if they will sell in a package with the cranks?


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## padrefan1982 (Mar 2, 2005)

Fastblack said:


> Those look great, thanks. Any idea what MSRP will be, or if they will sell in a package with the cranks?


Based on what I've seen with the RF N/W and single speed rings, the color options didn't change price, unless a store was blowing out certain sizes/colors.


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## Exon (Jan 20, 2005)

I plan to put this crankset (with 30 or 32T DM ring) on the 27.5 Nomad I have on order. The question I'm struggling with: 170 vs 175mm crank arm length? 

Considerations:

-I'm 5'11" with 34" true inseam.

-I plan to do a lot of Colorado climbing (and descending, of course) with the bike...it's going to be my everyday bike. I'll be riding with friends with shorter travel trail bikes, trying to keep up on the climbs...and cackling on the way down. 

-I have always ridden 175s on other MTBs, but on the 27.5 Nomad MTBR thread noticed that a number of riders are going with 170s, in part to reduce pedal strikes (13.4" bb, 165mm travel). I'm planning to do XT 785 trail pedals btw. 

The cranks aren't cheap so I want to make sure I get the right ones for my needs. I was planning to do 175s but it makes me a bit nervous when I read things like, "175s only belong on XC and road bikes being ridden by 6'+ers. 170s feel so much better on a bike that is jumped and 165s feel even better, but can leave you feeling a little weak when you have to grunt a gear that you bogged in a turn or dip." 

I have no problem trying 170s if the above quote is true, and if it applies even with my set of considerations. Thoughts???

Thanks in advance for your input!


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

While going to shorter cranks seems to be all the rage these days, I'm skeptical of these kinds of trends, as they're a lot like fad diets. Yes, the reasons you cited are sound, but the downsides are real as well. The general consensus has always been that crank length should be proportional to leg length, with overall height being a secondary consideration. You have long legs and other knowledgeable sources, such as Lennard Zinn, would tell you that you should ideally be on 180-185mm cranks (and a bike built to accommodate them). There simply is no consensus on this issue nor any definitive testing to rely on. The difference between 170s and 175s is not night and day, and you're not going to hurt or improve your riding dramatically either way, so I would suggest sticking with 175s that apparently have been working fine for you. Be cautious about advice from people who claim that the difference is dramatic, as it's nonsense and probably more a matter of the placebo effect or just them bragging about how smart their decision was than anything else.


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## Jamie_MTB (Nov 18, 2004)

I went from XX1 170mm cranks to RF next SL 175mm. The only difference i noticed was, i raised my seat post 5mm!


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

That's odd, as you should have LOWERED your saddle 5mm, since the pedals are lower at the bottom of the stroke and that's the position you use to set saddle height.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

Exon said:


> The question I'm struggling with: 170 vs 175mm crank arm length?


I'd get 175's for sure.

Years ago when I was working at shops I played with swapping different crank lengths on the same bike & rides. The difference between 170 & 175 is noticeable. Longer cranks = more leverage & torque which has few downsides on an MTB. The only advantage I noticed for shorter cranks was on long, flat road rides where you're spinning. I didn't like climbing with the shorter cranks.


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

Exon said:


> I plan to put this crankset (with 30 or 32T DM ring) on the 27.5 Nomad I have on order. The question I'm struggling with: 170 vs 175mm crank arm length?
> 
> Considerations:
> 
> ...


Hey Exon,

Based on your height and where you live I would still just stick with 175's. You will definitely benefit from the better leverage of the 175's if you plan on climbing quite a bit. You will sacrifice a bit of ground clearance, but if you enjoy climbing the benefits of longer crankarms typically outweigh the drawbacks. Plus, all our carbon cranks come supplied with the rubber boots to protect the tips, so if you occasionally mash the ends of the cranks into rocks, roots or small animals on the trail, the tips of yoru crankarms will stay protected.

Personally, I'm 6'2", running 175's on my Banshee Spitfire with ~13.2" BB and can definitely feel a difference climbing over the 170's I was on before. Here in BC the terrain can be fairly similar to some of the trails you'll find on the Front Range of CO (Red Rocks area) and while I do occasionally smash my cranks, you'll feel the difference especially during short punchy climbs. I ride everything from pure XC to super tech "pucker up and drop in" lines with the 175's and pedal strikes have become less of an issue the more I get used to the 175's.

Hope this helps, but feel free to email us at [email protected] and we can assist you better. We sometimes forget to check the forums, so emailing us is the best option.

Thanks for choosing Race Face!


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## Guest (May 14, 2014)

The reason I'm planning on buying a set of RF cranks is to change from 170 (XX1) to 175.

I'm 5-10 with 33 inseam, ride a Santa Cruz TRC, mostly trail and running 1x10 with 11-36 w/32 ring in front. I ride mostly trail, not much of a jumper, I do like technical climbs. When powering up or mashing a tall gear my legs feel constrained; the revolution with 170s just feels too tight like I can't get full stride.

The only downside is potentially more pedal strikes but that's not a big deal to me. I'd much rather have a more comfortable, fuller pedal stroke with a bit more power.


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## Exon (Jan 20, 2005)

RaceFace-suit said:


> Hey Exon,
> 
> Based on your height and where you live I would still just stick with 175's. You will definitely benefit from the better leverage of the 175's if you plan on climbing quite a bit. You will sacrifice a bit of ground clearance, but if you enjoy climbing the benefits of longer crankarms typically outweigh the drawbacks. Plus, all our carbon cranks come supplied with the rubber boots to protect the tips, so if you occasionally mash the ends of the cranks into rocks, roots or small animals on the trail, the tips of yoru crankarms will stay protected.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the great reply, RaceFace-suit -- very much appreciated. That goes for everyone else who also weighed in. I'm going to stick with the 175s.


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## icdesign (Apr 15, 2014)

*RF DM N/W Colors*

I really hope yo have these rings in all the colors (Black, Blue, Red, Gold, Orange)!! would sell a boat load!


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## beachbum1 (Oct 2, 2012)

Any updates on when the colored chainrings are coming out?


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## faber26 (May 27, 2008)

Guys, any of you got problems removing the Cinch screw? I've purchased the crankset with a double spider mounted on it, and now like to swap with a directmount narrow wide chainring. Tried to unlock the Cinch screw but no luck so far ... any tips please?


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

You mean the lockring? Mine came off easily... torque value is pretty low.


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## faber26 (May 27, 2008)

FM said:


> You mean the lockring? Mine came off easily... torque value is pretty low.


Yes, I mean the lockring. Mine is totally impossible to remove. I've tried to heat it up, no way, it is completely locked.

And ... you need turn counter clockwise to unlock, right? :eekster:


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

faber26 said:


> And ... you need turn counter clockwise to unlock, right? :eekster:


Assuming you are facing the lockring, yep....
What are you using as a wrench for the BB tool (or are you putting it in a vice and using the crank arm as the lever?)

Anyways I would contact RF tech support if you need, they are quick to respond.


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## faber26 (May 27, 2008)

FM said:


> What are you using as a wrench for the BB tool (or are you putting it in a vice and using the crank arm as the lever?)


I've tried with several types of wrenches, including a very long car torque wrench ... and I have also tried putting the tool in a vice, using the crank arm as a lever.

I'll try to get in touch with RF, but I don't really see what else they could recommend ...


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

Sometimes a good healthy tap will work way better than all the force you can muster.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

faber26 said:


> I'll try to get in touch with RF, but I don't really see what else they could recommend ...


I think the torque spec on that is 50Nm (foot-lbs). You shouldn't have to go apeshit on it. If it's not budging I would check with RaceFace in case it's defective.

Note to self: I can say apeshit on MTBR! :eekster:


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## faber26 (May 27, 2008)

bdundee said:


> Sometimes a good healthy tap will work way better than all the force you can muster.


Tried it too, as you can imagine ;-)


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## faber26 (May 27, 2008)

FM said:


> I think the torque spec on that is 50Nm (foot-lbs). You shouldn't have to go apeshit on it. If it's not budging I would check with RaceFace in case it's defective.
> 
> Note to self: I can say apeshit on MTBR! :eekster:


It is even less, 40Nm. I'll report the issue to RF ...


----------



## rickyla2 (Jan 9, 2014)

anyone use the next sl cranks on a mach 6 with a ck bb?


----------



## icdesign (Apr 15, 2014)

Just ordered my set!! Whoooo! Man didnt think about getting a King BB!! Oh well next round!


----------



## MTT77 (Aug 24, 2010)

I thought the Next SLs required the RF 30mm BB? And I think CK only makes 24mm?
Edit: My bad, I was thinking only of threaded. CK does make a press fit 30. Sorry.


----------



## MTT77 (Aug 24, 2010)

My new ride with the Next SLs!


----------



## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

MTT77 said:


> View attachment 895028
> 
> My new ride with the Next SLs!


Hot! My SB95c need some!


----------



## Toddmac1 (Aug 6, 2007)

Can any one comment on the strength/durability of this crank?

I am thinking about a set for my Chilcotin build. The bike will primarily be used for AM duty with rocky terrain, med size jumps & drops but will see some park riding as well as 7-10 day AM bike trips from time to time. A trip Whistler is also in the cards. I am 165 lbs geared up & ride mostly East Coast NY/NJ trails.

It will be set up 1x10 this year with a 28t or 30t chainring & 1x11 next year.

I am also looking at X01, & E-Thirteen TRS R if anyone can compare.

Seems like what I really need (want) is a spider-less SIX C with the Cinch system. Which I hope is in the works.

Thanks.


----------



## Jamie_MTB (Nov 18, 2004)

I switched from a sram bb to a chris king pf bb.

When i torque up the Cranks the whole things binds together?

I'm using the chris king pf30 bb with the adapters, has anybody come across this?

Thanks


----------



## quantum_Rider (Jun 21, 2010)

Did you manage to solve your problem? I am having similar issues with lock ring. Bloody tight, definitely over 40Nm


----------



## quantum_Rider (Jun 21, 2010)

*Coloured DM Cinch*



RaceFace-suit said:


> Hey Fastblack,
> 
> We'll have coloured Direct Mount CINCH rings ready to ship in just a few weeks! We leaked a couple photos on our Insta account a few days ago, so you can check them out there (Instagram). Thanks!


Please, make all those same colours currently available with narrow wide single rings.


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

quantum_Rider said:


> Did you manage to solve your problem? I am having similar issues with lock ring. Bloody tight, definitely over 40Nm


Mine was the same, I got it off in the end but I was worried about damaging the cranks.


----------



## Exon (Jan 20, 2005)

Race Face now has a Turbine crankset going on some new SC Nomads with a single, direct mount n/w ring. What would be the weight savings of swapping the Turbine arms out for Next SLs?


----------



## quantum_Rider (Jun 21, 2010)

Rick Draper said:


> Mine was the same, I got it off in the end but I was worried about damaging the cranks.


Any special trick, or just raw power?


----------



## Exon (Jan 20, 2005)

*Spec for spacing between lock ring and crank arm?*

How much space should there be between the lock ring and crank arm? Mine seems excessive. Bike shop installed the crank set following all the directions, including the use of a rubber mallet (I watched). BB is in there correctly, with end-to-end distance at ~98.1mil.

Wondering if this is a manufacturing defect? Have seen others on this thread struggle to get the cranks dialed in.

(In other news, there's a 200g difference between the OEM Turbine DM arms that Santa Cruz is now putting on the Nomad and Next SL arms...bike shop weighed them.)


----------



## MTT77 (Aug 24, 2010)

That looks like a lot...I'll have to double check mine. Did the LBS use the spacers included with the BB?


----------



## icdesign (Apr 15, 2014)

Nomad's 73mm BB requires only one spacer on Drive side according to RF BB install sheet.

http://raceface.com/comp/inst/BB_BSA30_Installation_Guide.pdf

Edit: That almost looks like the width of one spacer. Did they miss it?



MTT77 said:


> That looks like a lot...I'll have to double check mine. Did the LBS use the spacers included with the BB?


----------



## Exon (Jan 20, 2005)

No, they spaced it right. One spacer on drive side. We consulted the installation guide step by step. Not sure what the problem is, if not a RF defect?


----------



## icdesign (Apr 15, 2014)

Wish I had a comparative pic for you.. My Next's are still in a box while SC weaves their carbon fibers from unobtanium.... grrr..



Exon said:


> No, they spaced it right. One spacer on drive side. We consulted the installation guide step by step. Not sure what the problem is, if not a RF defect?


----------



## Exon (Jan 20, 2005)

Bummer! I know the feeling. I ordered my Nomad May 6 and got it June 17. 

Bike shop just called and said they figured out the issue with the extra space. Apparently it needed "an internal spacer on the drive side." Once I pick it up I'll hopefully get a better understanding of what that means, being that it already had the requisite spacer on the drive side. Hope they're not adding an extra spacer as a band-aid fix that puts the cranks out farther than they're supposed to be.


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

quantum_Rider said:


> Any special trick, or just raw power?


I clamped my bb tool in a vice and gave the crank arm a two taps with a rubber mallet on the pedal axle, it came straight off.


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Exon said:


> Bummer! I know the feeling. I ordered my Nomad May 6 and got it June 17.
> 
> Bike shop just called and said they figured out the issue with the extra space. Apparently it needed "an internal spacer on the drive side." Once I pick it up I'll hopefully get a better understanding of what that means, being that it already had the requisite spacer on the drive side. Hope they're not adding an extra spacer as a band-aid fix that puts the cranks out farther than they're supposed to be.


They are talking BS. If you read the Pinkbike review IIRC it mentioned the preload bolt needing to be turned to the extreme of the adjustment to remove all slack. What I did was add 2 to 3 thin E13 shim washers between the non driveside external cup and the frame, spacing it out slightly and requiring less threading of the preload nut. I have ran it like this on my Bronson C and my new Nomad C.


----------



## Exon (Jan 20, 2005)

Picked up the bike and it looks like the excessive space has been minimized without adding an extra bb spacer. There's still some space but it looks normal now (not multiple rows of exposed threads). The shop called Race Face who told them to use an internal spacer for the crank set (not to be confused with adding another bb spacer). Something about frame tolerances. I dunno ... but the issue seems to be fixed. At this point I don't care if they sacrificed a chicken and prayed to Jobu to fix it ... Just glad they got it fixed.


----------



## Jamie_MTB (Nov 18, 2004)

quantum_Rider said:


> Did you manage to solve your problem? I am having similar issues with lock ring. Bloody tight, definitely over 40Nm


Not yet. Speaking to RF direct and I need to send some photos of my setup


----------



## Ridnparadise (Dec 14, 2007)

I cannot really comment on durability, but when I set my new bike up, I used a RF BB (PF 92) and Next SL cranks, there was perfect alignment from chainring to the middle of my 1x10 cluster. Setting it up was logical with the instructions supplied. I have whacked the crank arms a bit, but not enough yet to do damage. I bought them hoping for life of bike longevity. My other bike has XT cranks. I feel no flex in either on my squishy bike.


----------



## GoldenDragoon (Apr 21, 2013)

I bash my Next SL cranks on rocks all the time... It leaves marks but no failure to date. I imagine that this area would have significant strength as they must know people will hit stuff with the arms.


----------



## CYCLEJCE (Nov 2, 2010)

Have any of you seen their new Turbine crank with the Cinch system? I think this may provide more spindle options for 100mm BB bikes like mine. It would be nice if the spindles could be mixed and matched.

Race Face


----------



## icdesign (Apr 15, 2014)

Well the Cinch system is going across theboard. Can see it on the new nomad builds with the SixC cranks.

https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/files/bikes/34png/web-blue.png


----------



## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

I am close to buying the Next Sl. Will my CK BB 73mm work or do I need to buy the RF BB?


----------



## beachbum1 (Oct 2, 2012)

Hi guys and gals. I am having some creaking issues and am going to remove the crank to check it out. I was able to remove the single chainring but the spindle won't move. I had the cranks installed so I have never removed them and honesty don't know how. Do I just tap it with a rubber mallet or is it screwed in somehow? Thanks.


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## MTT77 (Aug 24, 2010)

To remove the arm with the spindle, yes, rubber mallet.
But I have one more suggestion. I had a creak, and the issue was the little washers that go between the crank and the pedal axle. Took off the pedals, took off the rubber boots and washer. Cleaned the dirt out of the boot and the end of the crank arm. Greased the washers and put everything back together. Problem solved.


----------



## beachbum1 (Oct 2, 2012)

Thanks for the tip. I'll give that a try as well!


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

I am getting excessive space also and they don't seem to turn all that freely.
Santa Cruz Tallboy LTC
one spacer on drive side


----------



## Exon (Jan 20, 2005)

I'm still not clear on how my shop fixed the excessive space issue. I too noticed the friction you speak of until they got my cranks dialed. Does it have anything to do with the 13mm hex...does that need to be tightened?


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Just put a few extra thin spacers between the NDS bearing and the frame.


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

For 73mm directions say to only use 1 spacer. Getting irritated that I have to rig this to make it after spending the money on this. Frustrating.


----------



## Exon (Jan 20, 2005)

Jonesy22 said:


> For 73mm directions say to only use 1 spacer. Getting irritated that I have to rig this to make it after spending the money on this. Frustrating.


You're having the same troubles my shop had. The answer isn't extra bb spacers. I do know that. Call RF tech support. My shop did and got it sorted.


----------



## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Tried calling. Just getting mailbox is full call again later.


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Well just talked to RF and they said I have it installed right and that there's going to be threads showing and that it will turn smoother the more you use it.....hmmm


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## Exon (Jan 20, 2005)

That pic looks to me like you definitely have too many threads showing. Just like my "before" pic earlier in the thread, compared to my "after" pic. Interestingly, the first day my shop called RF they got the "sounds like you installed it correctly" answer but the next day they got a different answer. Maybe try PMing RaceFace_suit? If you're in the Denver area, the shop that helped me get it sorted was Evergreen Bicycle Outfitters - velocolorado.com. Ask for Tony. Good luck!


----------



## vinnyl26 (Apr 3, 2007)

So how easy is it to change the chain rings? Do you need a special tool?


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Road today and it was great but halfway through I had to stop. My crank worked it's way loose somehow. I tightened the crank bolt and it was fine but worries me it worked I itself loose


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

*rode


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Are you sure you torqued it up to spec?


----------



## Exon (Jan 20, 2005)

Yep. Same thing happened to mine before it was properly tightened.


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## brankulo (Aug 29, 2005)

how easy is it to remove spindle from non drive side arm?
here is what i am thinking to do. since my main ride cranks are toast i need new ones as well as bb. i am also building fat bike. i would get  proper bb and spindle for each bike and would want to just move arms from one bike to another depending which bike i am going to ride. arms install looks simple 10 min job, just not sure how easy it would be to switch non drive arm.


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## Ridnparadise (Dec 14, 2007)

brankulo said:


> how easy is it to remove spindle from non drive side arm?
> here is what i am thinking to do. since my main ride cranks are toast i need new ones as well as bb. i am also building fat bike. i would get proper bb and spindle for each bike and would want to just move arms from one bike to another depending which bike i am going to ride. arms install looks simple 10 min job, just not sure how easy it would be to switch non drive arm.


The spindle is part of the drive-side crank. If you just try to move the same crank from one width BB to another, it would not work. I believe there is a fat specific version. Therefore, the only transferrable bit as far as I know is the direct mount chainring. You will need 2 cranksets for your purpose.


----------



## brankulo (Aug 29, 2005)

i have read somewhere that spindle is removable from both arms. this spindle set from race face confirms it.


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## Ridnparadise (Dec 14, 2007)

Sure looks like you are correct. Apologies. I guess it makes sense being as they market the cinch system as being interchangeable.


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## jeremy524 (Jul 17, 2010)

Jonesy22 said:


> Well just talked to RF and they said I have it installed right and that there's going to be threads showing and that it will turn smoother the more you use it.....hmmm


Mine are installed on a Niner One9 RDO which also has a 73 mm bottom bracket. I have one spacer on the drive side with minimal spacing between the lock ring and crank arm. Also, when it and my I9 wheel were brand new, the crank was so free that in would turn a little as I would push the bike. In other words, it was more free that my I9 Torch freewheel. As my free wheel has broken in, this is not the case, but it is close. I have two riding friends that have the same crankset and wheel set on a Craves and they have had the exact same experience as have I.

This is the smoothest crankset with the least resistance I have ever owned. I know this may not help, but maybe it will give an additional experience/perspective.


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## jeremy524 (Jul 17, 2010)

My issue is with the dust seal on the non-drive side. It doesn't go completely flat and has a gap between it and the bearing. It has a step on it, so its almost like it doesn't need the step, save for spindle length spacing. Be that as it may, it is not keeping dust or dirt out.


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## icdesign (Apr 15, 2014)

I believe, if I recall, the bearing dust seal is cupped.. Perhaps you have it reversed?



jeremy524 said:


> My issue is with the dust seal on the non-drive side. It doesn't go completely flat and has a gap between it and the bearing. It has a step on it, so its almost like it doesn't need the step, save for spindle length spacing. Be that as it may, it is not keeping dust or dirt out.


----------



## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

I am joining the club...have the fatbike next SL version on the way, with a 28T ring....excited!

So, are there any pressfit BB options other than the RF? Just curious.... BB92 correct?


----------



## JasonHH (Nov 8, 2010)

Anyone know if I jump back and forth between a 28t and 32t front ring for different riding terrain, do I need to mess around with chain length between those two sizes? Hoping I can just throw on a new ring and go.


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## MTT77 (Aug 24, 2010)

I would think yes, but I'm not sure. I've been considering the same thing myself, and was thinking I could maybe add 4 links (including a quick link) to make things easy to swap. Basically unhook from the existing quick link, add the "extension", and go. Curious to hear from anyone with experience


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## CYCLEJCE (Nov 2, 2010)

I've gone between 32t-30t with out issues (X9 crankset w/ MRP rings). I didn't bother adjusting the chain length as my bike was set up around the 32t and dropping to the 30t for a 24hr race. If you are set up for the smaller ring and going bigger, adding two links should do it.


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## icdesign (Apr 15, 2014)

I aswell have been going between 30-32T on my new nomad. You should be mindful of your bike susp design and how much chain growth it has through its cycle. I ended up just tweaking the B-Tension between ring swaps and its happy.

FOr a 28-32, you're likely to need to adjust length of the chain.



JasonHH said:


> Anyone know if I jump back and forth between a 28t and 32t front ring for different riding terrain, do I need to mess around with chain length between those two sizes? Hoping I can just throw on a new ring and go.


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## socalMX (Oct 31, 2009)

I am sure this has been touched on but posting from mobile and cant read back too much.

How free should my cranks spin? Have 73mm threaded and they seem pretty tight, cant get a full rotation flicking with the chain off. Is this normal?


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## headpain (Jul 30, 2014)

socalMX said:


> I am sure this has been touched on but posting from mobile and cant read back too much.
> 
> How free should my cranks spin? Have 73mm threaded and they seem pretty tight, cant get a full rotation flicking with the chain off. Is this normal?


I'm having the same problem. The cranks barely spin. Did you happen to find a fix?


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## vinnyl26 (Apr 3, 2007)

headpain said:


> I'm having the same problem. The cranks barely spin. Did you happen to find a fix?


Do you have the black plastic cover over the ends of the bearings?


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## headpain (Jul 30, 2014)

vinnyl26 said:


> Do you have the black plastic cover over the ends of the bearings?


Thanks for trying but I really don't know how I fixed it. I got frustrated last night and pulled it all apart. After seeing your post, I decided to put it back together to say yes, the dust covers are installed. However, after putting it back together it works fine and is buttery smooth like it should be. Maybe the plastic spindle or the cup was misaligned. I'm really guessing now. I've never had a problem like that before.


----------



## broccoli rob (Jul 3, 2012)

Anyone have any problems with the preload collar coming loose? This happened twice in the last month. Not a big deal but the tiny 2 mm hex bolt seems flimsy and stripped rather easily.


----------



## cru_jones (Mar 21, 2009)

RaceFace-suit said:


> Hey Crash -
> 
> Traditional PF30 like BB30 produces an overall width that is the same as the shell width. Hence the XD-15 width should be 73mm wide when installed. In addition to the wide Race Face PF30 system you showed above we also offer spacer kits to adapt back down to to the traditional width.
> 
> ...


I have emailed, but in the meantime does anyone have any source for the PF30 spacer kit...F10010.

Every shop I've contacted or checkout online was out of stock.


----------



## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

cru_jones said:


> I have emailed, but in the meantime does anyone have any source for the PF30 spacer kit...F10010.
> 
> Every shop I've contacted or checkout online was out of stock.


I have the same issue, either they don't know about it or they can't get one.. I /think/ I found the right one on ebay, but who knows. We'll see when it gets here.

RaceFace Cinch Bottom Bracket Spacer Kit BB30 PF30 | eBay


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## cru_jones (Mar 21, 2009)

Vegard said:


> I have the same issue, either they don't know about it or they can't get one.. I /think/ I found the right one on ebay, but who knows. We'll see when it gets here.
> 
> RaceFace Cinch Bottom Bracket Spacer Kit BB30 PF30 | eBay


Yep..that's it. Good for you. I'll try and contact them to see if they have another one...not sure yet if I'm annoyed by this or not.  I really want to run this crank, and there is nothing wrong with my current PF30 BB so I didn't really want to have to buy the RF PF30 BB and swap it out...but that may end up being my only option.


----------



## cru_jones (Mar 21, 2009)

Update...found one here:

Race Face PF30 / BB30 Spindle Spacer Kit


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

cru_jones said:


> Yep..that's it. Good for you. I'll try and contact them to see if they have another one...not sure yet if I'm annoyed by this or not.  I really want to run this crank, and there is nothing wrong with my current PF30 BB so I didn't really want to have to buy the RF PF30 BB and swap it out...but that may end up being my only option.


It is an multiple item auction, says it they have 3 more.
As for the RF BB option I think it's genious, one spindle for all bikes (except fatties) and just swap the BB. In the long run and as long as I stay with RF cranks it'll be simpler.

This is my second Next SL, my previous one was a triple back in 2009 which I've been very happy with.


----------



## cru_jones (Mar 21, 2009)

Vegard said:


> It is an multiple item auction, says it they have 3 more.
> As for the RF BB option I think it's genious, one spindle for all bikes (except fatties) and just swap the BB. In the long run and as long as I stay with RF cranks it'll be simpler.
> 
> This is my second Next SL, my previous one was a triple back in 2009 which I've been very happy with.


That's what I thought, but it says the listing has ended and I don't see anymore in their store...oh well, the one from Pro Bike is on the way.

If you get yours and get it installed and wouldn't mind posting up anything you think may be important to know I'd appreciate it. Thanks! :thumbsup:


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

Will do, but chances are you'll get yours before I get mine as mine has to travel from wherever the ebaystore is to 69* north in Norway. Pedros expressdonkey shipping wasn't available


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## capin (Oct 17, 2009)

*Diy*

I had problem with BB tool as well. 
RF importer doesn't have any and Rotor importer only sells them with cranks, 
so i measured The BB cup, drew it in cad and had it laser cut from 4mm sheet. It costs nothing.. (I checked it on pictures and Rotor original tool is laser cut as well )
Mine works beautifully  
If anybody is interested PM me. I can share the drawing


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

That is SOOOO awesome! 

I couldn't find RF's BB tool online either so I bought one from EnduroForkSeals. It was expensive for something I wouldn't use often.



capin said:


> I had problem with BB tool as well.
> RF importer doesn't have any and Rotor importer only sells them with cranks,
> so i measured The BB cup, drew it in cad and had it laser cut from 4mm sheet. It costs nothing..
> Works beautifully
> If anybody is interested PM me. I can share the drawing


----------



## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

For anyone in Scandinavia, this Swedish store has it:
cyclecomponents.com/catalog/product/view/id/26533/


----------



## mattwright999 (Jun 25, 2014)

What orientation/order is everyone using when installing the F10010 spacers?


----------



## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

broccoli rob said:


> Anyone have any problems with the preload collar coming loose? This happened twice in the last month. Not a big deal but the tiny 2 mm hex bolt seems flimsy and stripped rather easily.


Been riding the cranks for months and on the weekend they came loose. Bolt on pre-load collar was tight, undid it and did it as tight as I could by hand and re-tightened.

Will see if stays put on the next few rides.


----------



## broccoli rob (Jul 3, 2012)

I replaced the preload collar bolt with a 2.5mm socket cap screw(M3 x 12mm I think). Alot easier to secure the collar and hasn't loosened up yet. Cost $1.09 for 3 of them.


----------



## icdesign (Apr 15, 2014)

Amen!

Mines striped and BB is a bit clicky. Need to find a way to get it out of there. Likely dremel a slot for a flat head?



broccoli rob said:


> I replaced the preload collar bolt with a 2.5mm socket cap screw(M3 x 12mm I think). Alot easier to secure the collar and hasn't loosened up yet. Cost $1.09 for 3 of them.


----------



## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Mine showed up finally....no frame to put it on yet though.....

Installing the chainring was about the quickest of any crank....very nice design.


----------



## 08_Yukon hard tail (Sep 14, 2008)

I'm still waiting on mine.....one month now and counting. I'm sure it's worth the wait. I called PP and they said next week.


----------



## MTBMILES (Dec 27, 2007)

I finally put mine on and it's working great!


----------



## iscariot (Oct 24, 2006)

Run the NextSL on my Slayer70 (29#) and my Fatboy (28#). I never realised a bb and crankset could spin so smoothly.


----------



## Ridnparadise (Dec 14, 2007)

NEXTSL and RF PF92 BB with RF NW chainring running 1x10 ZEE RD has been just ORSUM. 
Sorry I couldn't use more CapitalNumber abbreviations.


----------



## MTBMILES (Dec 27, 2007)

Who thinks the Race Face bottom bracket sleeve is important and why? There are a lot of other bottom brackets that do not come with a sleeve.


----------



## Lornholio (Mar 5, 2013)

*BSA BB options for Next SLs?*

So I'm thinking of picking up some Next SL's (direct-mount ring) for my 73mm BSA threaded frame. Am I correct to think that I either need to use Race Face's BSA 30 BB or something like a Hope BSA 30 with these adapters, because of the Cinch spindle length?

I've read some bad comments about Race Face BBs in the past. To any current RF BSA 30 BB users: how is it holding up? I can't find the Hope BSA 30 online anywhere but Hope lists it in this chart so I guess it will become available shortly, and if it's the same price as a normal Hope BB then the Hope BB with the Race Face adapters would only cost about $30 more than the Face Face BSA 30 plus the installation tool.

Would it be a wiser move to go with the Hope BB or is the Race Face BSA 30 fine? Or are there any mid-level BSA30 BBs which would work with the Next SLs alongside the adapters? I normally just go for a cheap SLX or XT BB and replace them annually but that's not an option now.

Thanks.


----------



## timsmcm (Dec 23, 2007)

My press fit 30 bb pressed into Hard eddie carbon frame has been stellar. Very quiet and spins forever.


----------



## Ridnparadise (Dec 14, 2007)

I went with the RF BB because it makes sense that RF test their BBs with their cranks, especially the elite Next sl. Mine is a BB92, rather than 30, but perhaps those bad comments were people with RF BBs and other brand cranks, maybe old etc.


----------



## 08_Yukon hard tail (Sep 14, 2008)

Still waiting 5 weeks and counting back order from PP. Someday I'll have my hands on it👐


----------



## Alpenglow (Feb 5, 2004)

Are there any oval chaninrings (absolute black, Rotor, etc) that are compatible with Race Face Next SL cranks? Thanks,


----------



## Lornholio (Mar 5, 2013)

08_Yukon hard tail said:


> Still waiting 5 weeks and counting back order from PP. Someday I'll have my hands on it👐


Likewise. Jenson stated "In stock" when I ordered, which changed to "17th October" the next day, then "2 weeks" and after emailing them I've now been told mid-November. I'll be skiing from November-May anyway, but this is just irritating.


----------



## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

Why would you want oval rings on a MTB? They compromise shifting (you can only shift in two places per revolution), which may not be that much of an issue on the road, but off-road, it could be a real problem. Also, chain drops are more likely with oval rings, which again could be an issue off-road.

I also suspect that the advantages of oval rings - if there really are any - will be greatly diminished in the off-road environment, where steady-state seated pedaling is not the norm.


----------



## Alpenglow (Feb 5, 2004)

It is for endurance racing. 100 Mile NUE events.


Bnystrom said:


> Why would you want oval rings on a MTB? They compromise shifting (you can only shift in two places per revolution), which may not be that much of an issue on the road, but off-road, it could be a real problem. Also, chain drops are more likely with oval rings, which again could be an issue off-road.
> 
> I also suspect that the advantages of oval rings - if there really are any - will be greatly diminished in the off-road environment, where steady-state seated pedaling is not the norm.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Bnystrom said:


> Why would you want oval rings on a MTB? They compromise shifting (you can only shift in two places per revolution), which may not be that much of an issue on the road, but off-road, it could be a real problem. Also, chain drops are more likely with oval rings, which again could be an issue off-road.
> 
> I also suspect that the advantages of oval rings - if there really are any - will be greatly diminished in the off-road environment, where steady-state seated pedaling is not the norm.


Who says steady seated pedaling isn't the norm, just because you don't doesn't mean others don't. There are a lot of people that have long climbs at the beginning of their ride before heading back down.



Alpenglow said:


> Are there any oval chaninrings (absolute black, Rotor, etc) that are compatible with Race Face Next SL cranks? Thanks,


All you have to do is look at the BCD of the Next cranks and then check the rings and you have your answer.


----------



## Alpenglow (Feb 5, 2004)

TwoTone said:


> All you have to do is look at the BCD of the Next cranks and then check the rings and you have your answer.


Thanks. I realize that. I was just checking to see if anyone had any news. I only see absolute black ovals for shimano, cannondale, and XX1 and Rotor rings for XX1 and Specialized. Appreciate the response.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Alpenglow said:


> Thanks. I realize that. I was just checking to see if anyone had any news. I only see absolute black ovals for shimano, cannondale, and XX1 and Rotor rings for XX1 and Specialized. Appreciate the response.


You can use the Absolute Black with a RaceFAce 104 spider.
I did email A/B about a cinch oval ring....he is thinking about it.
I am having a custom spider made to use Rotor rings. I will post it when I get it.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Bnystrom said:


> Why would you want oval rings on a MTB? They compromise shifting (you can only shift in two places per revolution), which may not be that much of an issue on the road, but off-road, it could be a real problem. Also, chain drops are more likely with oval rings, which again could be an issue off-road.
> 
> I also suspect that the advantages of oval rings - if there really are any - will be greatly diminished in the off-road environment, where steady-state seated pedaling is not the norm.


You can shift just fine anywhere on a oval ring.
Chain drops are not anymore of a problem than a round ring.
Take a look at the set ups on World Cup bikes.....there are more than a few Rotor rings...


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Alpenglow said:


> Thanks. I realize that. I was just checking to see if anyone had any news. I only see absolute black ovals for shimano, cannondale, and XX1 and Rotor rings for XX1 and Specialized. Appreciate the response.


So you were looking for a single front ring, cause they have them for 64/104.


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## Twilliams817 (Nov 1, 2014)

I have a Santa Cruz 5010 XT setup and would like to lighten it up a bit. Is the Race Face BB required for the cranks? Or will it work with others so long as the size is correct and/or the necessary spacers are used? My current BB is 73mm threaded. And should I consider replacing the BB anyway? Thanks


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## CrashTheDOG (Jan 4, 2004)

Alpenglow said:


> Thanks. I realize that. I was just checking to see if anyone had any news. I only see absolute black ovals for shimano, cannondale, and XX1 and Rotor rings for XX1 and Specialized. Appreciate the response.


Alpenglow, I've looked into this a bit and I don't believe anyone makes a direct mount oval ring for the Race Face Cinch equipped cranks. I think we'd have to simply buy the 104 bcd spider from Race Face.

Several people have asked Absolute Black here on MTBR but I don't see where he's confirmed one way or the other. First person to make this available gets my money.


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## CrashTheDOG (Jan 4, 2004)

Twilliams817 said:


> Or will it work with others so long as the size is correct and/or the necessary spacers are used?


Yes. Although the Race Face BB is fairly inexpensive and has been rock solid for me this past season.


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## irishpitbull (Sep 29, 2011)

CrashTheDOG said:


> Alpenglow, I've looked into this a bit and I don't believe anyone makes a direct mount oval ring for the Race Face Cinch equipped cranks. I think we'd have to simply buy the 104 bcd spider from Race Face.
> 
> Several people have asked Absolute Black here on MTBR but I don't see where he's confirmed one way or the other. First person to make this available gets my money.


I just purchased the Raceface 104 spider for the AB Oval for my Echo there is no direct mount.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

irishpitbull said:


> I just purchased the Raceface 104 spider for the AB Oval for my Echo there is no direct mount.


Is that the 3x spider?


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## irishpitbull (Sep 29, 2011)

TwoTone said:


> Is that the 3x spider?


There is 2x or 3x. I got the 2x.


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## Alpenglow (Feb 5, 2004)

Thanks Crash.


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## Alpenglow (Feb 5, 2004)

Cool. please let us know how it works once you get some rides on it. Thanks.



irishpitbull said:


> I just purchased the Raceface 104 spider for the AB Oval for my Echo there is no direct mount.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

irishpitbull said:


> There is 2x or 3x. I got the 2x.


Been looking for decent pictures. On the 2x, is there the ability to mount a bash on the outside or would I need the 3x spider for that.


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## MTBMILES (Dec 27, 2007)

TwoTone said:


> Been looking for decent pictures. On the 2x, is there the ability to mount a bash on the outside or would I need the 3x spider for that.


That depends on what size ring you want to run. My guess is that you would want to run a triple spider if you're wanting to run a 32/26 with a bash guard or something similar.


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## ebenke (Sep 1, 2008)

I plan to run a set of race face next cranks, 1x in the next couple of three months.


EBenke


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

Which tool is required to swap chainrings?


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## Dikkie (Dec 16, 2005)

Vegard said:


> Which tool is required to swap chainrings?


Direct mount chainring can be swapped with a common BB mounting tool: Park tool BBT 22.
It's also mostly included in those cheap Tool kit boxes.


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## Dikkie (Dec 16, 2005)

MTBMILES said:


> Who thinks the Race Face bottom bracket sleeve is important and why? There are a lot of other bottom brackets that do not come with a sleeve.


A question I asked myself too.
It isn't a prob on my Pivot Les (BB92) with nice internal cable guidance and the cable access port under the BB that also acts as an ideal water draining hole.
I did put the sleeve in though.
I plan to install a stealth dropper with cable actuation, the sleeve could keep the liner away from the crank axle.


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

RaceFace-suit said:


> You are correct that the RF, Enduro and Rotor tools are interchangeable. Also the tool used for the now discontinued Zipp Vuma Quad will work.
> 
> RF


Anyone tried this? Pricy, but finding any of the other 3 options in stock isn't exactly easy.
RWC Exteral BB30 Cup Tool by Real World Cycling


----------



## KINTARO (Dec 12, 2012)

Will the RF next sl crank fit a 2014 bmc te02 with a bb90 bb?


----------



## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

@vegard - 29inCH :: Riding Twentyniners in Switzerland has used the RWC i think? also kogel kogel bsa30 ceramic bottom bracket for mountain bikes | kogel, bearings, ceramic, bicycle, bottom bracket has a bsa for 30mm

edit: ooop! sorry didnt realise you meant the tool!...


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

I bought and used RWC's cup tool to install my RF BSA30 BB. It works great (only used it once or twice) and is machined beautifully.

The big seller was that RWC had their tool in stock and ready to ship. 



Vegard said:


> Anyone tried this? Pricy, but finding any of the other 3 options in stock isn't exactly easy.
> RWC Exteral BB30 Cup Tool by Real World Cycling


----------



## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

dRjOn said:


> @vegard - 29inCH :: Riding Twentyniners in Switzerland has used the RWC i think? also kogel kogel bsa30 ceramic bottom bracket for mountain bikes | kogel, bearings, ceramic, bicycle, bottom bracket has a bsa for 30mm
> 
> edit: ooop! sorry didnt realise you meant the tool!...


Thanks though 



MarkMass said:


> I bought and used RWC's cup tool to install my RF BSA30 BB. It works great (only used it once or twice) and is machined beautifully.
> 
> The big seller was that RWC had their tool in stock and ready to ship.


That seems to be the big issue, there's heaps of the cranks available, but the BSA tool and BSA bracket are scarce. My dealer isn't getting any BSA BBs before February. :eekster:

Ended up with this as it's the cheapest I've found:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/R...-fuer-BSA-30-p36655/schwarz-universal-o20001/


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

Question for those that have been using these for a while with XX1/X01 rear cassettes (10-42)...
How long are the RF chainrings lasting? I'm guessing not very because the Sram rings are toast after less than 500 miles since the crossover to 42t rear causes the narrow wide to wear down fast. Being fair the RF rings could be made of better wearing material but the chainline for XX1 is 49mm and the Next SL is 51mm making it even worse so... 

Have FUN!

G MAN


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## Toddmac1 (Aug 6, 2007)

Gman086 said:


> Question for those that have been using for a while with XX1 rear cassettes (10-42)...
> How long are the RF chainrings lasting? I'm guessing not very because the Sram rings are toast after less than 500 miles because of the crossover to 42t rear causes the narrow wide to wear down fast. The chainline for XX1 is 49mm and the Next SL is 51mm making it even worse so...
> 
> Have FUN!
> ...


Not sure how long the RF chainrings will last but WolfTooth is coming out with a few direct mount rings for RF Cinch cranks in 49mm CL. Look much better as well. Only a few sizes at first, more if they sell well. Check out their FB page.

Not sure why RF went with 51mm.


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## Ridnparadise (Dec 14, 2007)

Gman086 said:


> Question for those that have been using these for a while with XX1/X01 rear cassettes (10-42)...
> How long are the RF chainrings lasting? I'm guessing not very because the Sram rings are toast after less than 500 miles since the crossover to 42t rear causes the narrow wide to wear down fast. Being fair the RF rings could be made of better wearing material but the chainline for XX1 is 49mm and the Next SL is 51mm making it even worse so...
> 
> Have FUN!
> ...


This is an interesting question. Rear clusters wear out pretty fast. On triple chainrings the middle ring also wears out fast. All of these cogs suffer when the chain is forced over the rotating teeth. In the case of the rear cluster, the effective chainline as the deraileur moves is far greater than any change in actual chainline at the chainring.

With a single front chainring, there is definitely lateral stress as the gears change away from the centre of the rear cluster. However, the chain does not ride up and over the teeth and nor are there short teeth to add to the force on adjacent tall teeth.

The chainring on a singlespeed is always in line and they have a very long life, although noted they are not narrow-wide, but 500m from a single to 11 combination is staggeringly poor. When I built my new bike in May one of the things I hoped to avoid was excessive cost and mechanical issues with the drivetrain. While I never expected immortality from my 1x10, if my RF chainring dies inside of 2000m I will be annoyed and confused.


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## solidfish (Jul 1, 2012)

Sorry this might be a noobish question but what is the tool called to replace the bearings on the BSA30 bottom bracket?


----------



## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

Read every response here and can't believe no one has asked/answered this yet:

How do you remove the spindle from the NDS crank? Want to replace it with a fatbike version, but cannot get the existing/shorter spindle out. Looked (at first glance) like an ISIS crank puller *might* do it, alas no dice.

Project on hold until I figure this out...


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

For those that want a better 1x chainline (49mm) we just finished these up today:







WolfTooth Components Thread - Page 41- Mtbr.com


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## MattMay (Dec 24, 2013)

Perfect timing..been wanting to bump my 30T to 32t...just ordered!


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

Are there any BSA30 bottom bracket alternatives from other manufacturers for the Next SL crank? I just purchased the Next SL crank arms but cannot find any Race Face bottom bracket for it in Europe. Thanks in advance.


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

16mm hex key. A 16mm hex adapter comes with the spindle when you buy it separately.



mikesee said:


> Read every response here and can't believe no one has asked/answered this yet:
> 
> How do you remove the spindle from the NDS crank? Want to replace it with a fatbike version, but cannot get the existing/shorter spindle out. Looked (at first glance) like an ISIS crank puller *might* do it, alas no dice.
> 
> Project on hold until I figure this out...


----------



## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

Enduroforkseals.com sells a BSA30 BB. I bought their BB tool to use on my RF BSA30 BB.



randan said:


> Are there any BSA30 bottom bracket alternatives from other manufacturers for the Next SL crank? I just purchased the Next SL crank arms but cannot find any Race Face bottom bracket for it in Europe. Thanks in advance.


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

I just received my Next SL crankarms from Chainreactioncycles. What a wonderful peace of art! To my surprise there is a sticker on the box sayin "Made in Taiwan". Wasn't the crank supposed to be made in Canada? I know Taiwan is highly regarded for its carbon industry but isn't it odd as this crank is being sold as Canadian made? Or did I miss something?


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

MarkMass said:


> Enduroforkseals.com sells a BSA30 BB. I bought their BB tool to use on my RF BSA30 BB.


Thanks! In the meantime i found a Race Face BB and the BSA30 tool from Rotor.


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

randan said:


> I just received my Next SL crankarms from Chainreactioncycles. What a wonderful peace of art! To my surprise there is a sticker on the box sayin "Made in Taiwan". Wasn't the crank supposed to be made in Canada? I know Taiwan is highly regarded for its carbon industry but isn't it odd as this crank is being sold as Canadian made? Or did I miss something?


Somebody must have put that sticker on after beer Friday, as I'm sitting 20 ft from where every single carbon crank is hand made. I can guarantee you that was surely just a labeling issue and you've just received 100% Canadian made goodness.


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## Ridnparadise (Dec 14, 2007)

RaceFace-suit said:


> Somebody must have put that sticker on after beer Friday, as I'm sitting 20 ft from where every single carbon crank is hand made. I can guarantee you that was surely just a labeling issue and you've just received 100% Canadian made goodness.


Goodness with a capitol G. I'm using mine with a RF PF30 BB and all is sweet. Sweet like this


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## mik8yu (Jul 25, 2012)

RaceFace-suit said:


> Somebody must have put that sticker on after beer Friday, as I'm sitting 20 ft from where every single carbon crank is hand made. I can guarantee you that was surely just a labeling issue and you've just received 100% Canadian made goodness.


LOL

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ghettocop (Jul 26, 2011)

Just put mine on this weekend. Nicely made, straightforward bearing pre-load, really smooth bearings. I've had bad luck with Race Face BB's in the past but this one seems pretty sweet.


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## pmanfred (Nov 7, 2010)

I am ordering the next SL with 28 tooth Chainring. My current bottom bracket is 30mm Zipp Vuma and I assume it is compatible. Can anyone confirm? Thanks


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

I am sorry if this has been mentioned previously, but I am feeling lazy to go over the pages here.
What is the best threaded BB option for these cranks?
I would like to use them on my future ride. Ibis HD3 or Nomad.


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## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

Don't you have just one option ATM - the RF BB?


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

StiHacka said:


> Don't you have just one option ATM - the RF BB?


Do I? I don't know. In that case it is an easy choice.
How does the RF threaded BB performs? No issues?


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

nah, theres a few - kogel, drcannondale, rotor, ax lightness, KCNC, real world cycling to name a few....search for BSA 30mm bb////


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Hope are coming out with a bottom bracket suitable soon as this is the standard there cranks will use.


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## trmn8er (Jun 9, 2011)

RaceFace-suit said:


> Somebody must have put that sticker on after beer Friday, as I'm sitting 20 ft from where every single carbon crank is hand made. I can guarantee you that was surely just a labeling issue and you've just received 100% Canadian made goodness.


I built up a 2015 Specialized Epic S-Works World Cup frame, and am running an XO crankset with a 32T RaceFace NW 10 speed with SRAM XX 11-36 out back, 10-speed KMC chain (XL) and XO grip shifter. I want a much lighter crank, and am looking at getting the Specialized S-Works 2014/2015 1X Carbon crank, but they are on back-order in a 175mm length. I have little desire to go 1X11 at this time and have to purchase a new chain, shifter and cassette.

Having said this, I am interested in your crank-set. With the Specialized Epic World Cup, I believe I have a PF30 BB and a 165Q factor. Does your crank-set offer an ideal fit and compatibility with the Epic World Cup? Would I be able to use my existing RaceFace 32T NW ring or would the new crank-set come with a ring? I really like the 32T, and am able to climb most anything with this bike as it climbs like a beast and I like the chain-line of a 11-36 10-speed.

What model number do I need to get your crank compatible with my PF30 BB and frame (designed as a single chain-ring only). Thank you in advance...


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## will 6.6 (Feb 1, 2007)

jazzanova said:


> Do I? I don't know. In that case it is an easy choice.
> How does the RF threaded BB performs? No issues?


I have the hope BB, usual hope quality, only had it a 2/3 months but super smooth, be aware it needs is own specific tool, not the same as Race Face. 
I now have 3 dif BB tools!!!


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

trmn8er said:


> I built up a 2015 Specialized Epic S-Works World Cup frame, and am running an XO crankset with a 32T RaceFace NW 10 speed with SRAM XX 11-36 out back, 10-speed KMC chain (XL) and XO grip shifter. I want a much lighter crank, and am looking at getting the Specialized S-Works 2014/2015 1X Carbon crank, but they are on back-order in a 175mm length. I have little desire to go 1X11 at this time and have to purchase a new chain, shifter and cassette.
> 
> Having said this, I am interested in your crank-set. With the Specialized Epic World Cup, I believe I have a PF30 BB and a 165Q factor. Does your crank-set offer an ideal fit and compatibility with the Epic World Cup? Would I be able to use my existing RaceFace 32T NW ring or would the new crank-set come with a ring? I really like the 32T, and am able to climb most anything with this bike as it climbs like a beast and I like the chain-line of a 11-36 10-speed.
> 
> What model number do I need to get your crank compatible with my PF30 BB and frame (designed as a single chain-ring only). Thank you in advance...


PM'd you regarding this, but if anyone else is interested, my response is below. Let me know if you need anything else!

"Hey,

Thanks for the PM. Our Next SL's offer a 167mm Q-Factor, so very similar to what you're after. I have a couple friends running the Next SL's on the Epic WC and they've been stoked on the setup so I'm sure you will be as well. The ideal setup for you on your Spesh would be:

-Next SL Arms (CK14NXSLA175BLK or CK14NXSLDM32175BLK)
-PF30 CINCH BB (BB467330B8)
-Direct Mount Ring in size of your choice (RRSNDM32BLK for 32t)

This way the setup is optimized together so you'll get the lightest/stiffest combo we offer. Alternatively, you can run your existing BB and just order the spacer kit in place of the PF30 CINCH BB. The PN for the spacer kit is F10010.

If you'd like to use your exsisting ring, you can just buy the Next SL armset and then the 104 BCD spider. That being said, the Direct Mount Rings cost around the same as our spiders, so you're better off just buying a new DM ring to save weight and make a more simple setup.

Hope this is clear, but please let me know if you have any other questions!

Cheers,

Devyn Pelley

International Sales"


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## Natedeezy (Feb 28, 2011)

Please Help! Looking to put the Next SL crank in my Ice Cream Truck Build.

Are these the only 2 items I need for the Bottom Bracket or any additional parts I need or are there any other BB options? If there is I can't seem to find them.

Cinch BB Spacer Kit F10014
Cinch BB92 30mm BB419230B7


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## littledreamer (Aug 7, 2013)

Devyn(RaceFaceSuit),
Where can one buy a BSA30 Tool here in BC? Seems basically impossible. VelotechUK has a Rotor tool, total cost around $62. I've got a new NextSL crank in my garage, but can't install the BSA30 BB. It's kinda funny, but not in a good way. What's the deal?
A tool like this shouldn't cost so much, and be so unavailable. The Enduro tool is ridiculous shipping to bring to Canada. Help!
Andy
*ended up buying the Enduro tool- $72 cdn after shipping. This tool should not cost more than the BB itself!


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## Guest (Jan 19, 2015)

...


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

Henrik83 said:


> Does any BSA30 tool work? I thought you needed the RF-wrench? I need to google more..
> 
> But, something google can't seem to help me with.. What are the options for chainrings? Race Face or Wolfthooth, any other options? I'd like a 34T with as little writing/logos as possible, all black would be awesome. IMO the RF one is plain ugly with all that RACEFACERACEFACERACEFACE all over it.


The Enduro, Zipp and Rotor BSA30 tool are all interchangeable with the RF one, so any of those will work.

As for ring, we sell "Stealth" kits for those that don't like the logos all over the ring. I've attached a picture below of the contents of the stealth kit for your reference.


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## Guest (Jan 19, 2015)

...


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

Henrik83 said:


> Haha, I actually paid like 35€ extra to get the stealth crankarms. IMO it would look so much better if the chainring where a little more, shall we say discreet?
> 
> How much for a custom order? 1 x 34T, all black. 75€ and a pack of homemade Swedish meatballs?


The ring is flippable if you're running it on a Fatbike, but unfortunately no go on 73mm shells.

Quite tempting offer with the Swedish meatballs, but custom orders are only payable in gold bullion or Sex Panther Cologne.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

Seriously, if you want something more permanent, Birchwood-Caseys offers "Aluminum Black, which does a decent job. Any areas that are machined or laser etched could be blackened with it.








There are also other methods detailed online.


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## thehiredgun (Dec 14, 2011)

I've got a Next SL crank on my S-Works Epic WC with a CK PF30 and the F10010 spacer kit and can't get the Garmin cadence sensor to clear the NDS chainstay. I've got the 11.5mm spacer on the NDS and the 11.5mm + 2.5mm spacers on the drive side. Everything seems to be installed per RF's instructions. Seems like there's enough clearance to move the 2.5mm from the DS to NDS to get the right spacing but that's not what's in the install instructions.Can someone help me out with this? RaceFace-suit?


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

thehiredgun said:


> I've got a Next SL crank on my S-Works Epic WC with a CK PF30 and the F10010 spacer kit and can't get the Garmin cadence sensor to clear the NDS chainstay. I've got the 11.5mm spacer on the NDS and the 11.5mm + 2.5mm spacers on the drive side. Everything seems to be installed per RF's instructions. Seems like there's enough clearance to move the 2.5mm from the DS to NDS to get the right spacing but that's not what's in the install instructions.Can someone help me out with this? RaceFace-suit?


As long as you have the clearance you can move the 2.5mm spacer to either side. Instructions are to set it up with ideal CL and spacing for most applications, but since you're using a sensor you'll have to tweak it to see what works. As long as all the spacers are there and there's no arm/chainring binding on frame, it doesn't matter what side they go on.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

Considering that having the proper chain line is far more important than a cadence sensor, moving the spacers is probably not a good idea.

I assume that you mean that the cadence *magnet* is not clearing the chainstay, correct? It can be replaced with a much thinner rare-earth magnet, which you can find at hardware stores and home centers, among other places. If your pedals have steel spindles, you can even put the magnet on the spindle end to gain some clearance.

FWIW, while I have cadence sensors on my road bikes, I don't use them off-road, as they're too likely to get banged around and damaged, or lost. My cadence off-road also varies more dramatically, so I wouldn't find the data particularly useful. Come to think of it, the road data isn't especially useful either, as I my cadence hasn't changed significantly in...well...ever.


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## thehiredgun (Dec 14, 2011)

Thanks RaceFace-suit.

On ideal CL, does what y'all consider to be ideal include 11 speed drivetrains?


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## thehiredgun (Dec 14, 2011)

Bnystrom - Agreed on the importance of CL. I also wonder how a 2.5mm difference in CL will effect an 11 speed drivetrain. Seems like you may want to move a little more inboard. I'm actually using the newer Garmin Cadence sensor which is not a magnet and instead uses an accelerometer to measure cadence. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Also, you're right, a lot of guys don't really use cadence for offroad stuff. Heck, a lot don't use HRM either. I really like them both so I use them. How effective it is? THAT is completely up for debate.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

So you're using the Garmin power meter (Vector S?), not just a computer with a cadence sensor. Yeah, that definitely limits your options for repositioning the sensor.

HRM data is good in that I can tell how hard I worked or if there is a significant difference in my HR for a given ride than normal. However, I have to admit that this is more interesting than useful, since I'm not training for anything. Occasionally, I forget to put on the chest strap when dressing for a ride and if I'm completely honest about it, I generally don't feel like I'm really losing anything.


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## thehiredgun (Dec 14, 2011)

No. I'm using the new Garmin ANT+ Cadence sensor, part#010-12102-00. They separated the speed and cadence senors now. I'm pretty sure they did this since the GSC10 was such a pain to keep spaced properly from the cadence and wheel magnets, which the wheel magnets could and did spin regularly on my bikes.

I like thinking the HRM makes a difference to me but I only really ever look done if I feel like I'm working way harder than I think I should be. Also lets me know how much more I can push when I'm on my own. Different strokes.


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

thehiredgun said:


> Thanks RaceFace-suit.
> 
> On ideal CL, does what y'all consider to be ideal include 11 speed drivetrains?


Our Next SL 73mm with DM ring have a stock CL of 51mm which is what we feel is ideal for use on 1x setups (SRAM uses 49mm) so even if you move the 2.5mm spacer to the non-DS you'll still be within close range of SRAM's "ideal" CL. The CL shouldn't be that adversely affected.


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## thehiredgun (Dec 14, 2011)

Excellent. Thanks for your help!


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

Interesting, I hadn't seen that new sensor until you mentioned it.

I never use the Garmin wheel magnets, which are unreliable junk (like their software). I much prefer Cateye magnets, which stay in place and are stronger. Their shape also provides more range of adjustment toward the sensor.









I do use the HR data to meter my effort in real time. What I was musing about earlier was whether the stored data was of any significant use after the fact.


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## thehiredgun (Dec 14, 2011)

You're dead on, after the fact I have yet to go 'dang, if I had just spun it up another 5rpm'


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## HeatmiserSoCal (Jun 29, 2013)

Can I use a Chris King bottom bracket with the Next SL Cinch cranks?


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## Jamie_MTB (Nov 18, 2004)

HeatmiserSoCal said:


> Can I use a Chris King bottom bracket with the Next SL Cinch cranks?


Yes and you'll need the spacer kit


----------



## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

Jamie_MTB said:


> Yes and you'll need the spacer kit


Spacer Kit? Specific to press fit or threaded versions?


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## Lars_D (May 24, 2011)

RaceFace-suit said:


> Our Next SL 73mm with DM ring have a stock CL of 51mm which is what we feel is ideal for use on 1x setups (SRAM uses 49mm) so even if you move the 2.5mm spacer to the non-DS you'll still be within close range of SRAM's "ideal" CL. The CL shouldn't be that adversely affected.


"DM" "SL" "DS" "CL." Try using words. People might understand you.


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

HeatmiserSoCal said:


> Can I use a Chris King bottom bracket with the Next SL Cinch cranks?


If you're running Chris King PF30 BB then yes you can use it with the Next SL cranks. You'll just need to use our spacer kit F10010. The cranks are not compatible with the Chris King threaded BB as they don't make a threaded BB to fit the 30mm spindle.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Lars_D said:


> "DM" "SL" "DS" "CL." Try using words. People might understand you.


Really, Direct Mount, Chain Line and Drive Side? What word should he substitute for the SL as that is part of the product name, you know Next SL cranks.


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## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

RaceFace-suit said:


> If you're running Chris King PF30 BB then yes you can use it with the Next SL cranks. You'll just need to use our spacer kit F10010. The cranks are not compatible with the Chris King threaded BB as they don't make a threaded BB to fit the 30mm spindle.


Im confused, if the BB shell is 92mm where do the spacers go?

I have a set of these cranks on the wife's Ripley with the RF BB pressed in, no spacers needed. Is the King BB narrower than the RF BB?

Just wondering, planning to put some Next SL's and a king BB onto an upcoming build. The King BB is only 73mm outside to outside so I see somehow it needs to be wider, but isnt that internally? The spacer kits looks to be external?

The wife's bike was my first Press Fit, so not real clear on all this.

Edit: measured the King BB and its about 70mm out to out....

Edit2: Talked to King, they said run it without the center sleeve, no plans to make a longer center plastic sleeve.

Thanks


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

firstly, as a note to Raceface, if next sl had an 83mm bb option i would have 2 or 3. - i have some + tyre and short chainstay xc bikes that it would be ideal for. i guess Raceface might be interested if there are others in the same boat!....and i know this is the next sl thread....buuut when oh when will sixc be available with 83mm in 175mm length!......thsi would be a very good alternative!


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## Guest (Jan 29, 2015)

...


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Henrik83 said:


> Got my cranks today, awesome! But still looking for an all black chainring..
> 
> View attachment 959747
> 
> ...


WT makes some nice rings too...
http://www.wolftoothcycling.com/products/direct-mount-race-face-cinch


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

I installed my set last night, really nice cranks, first ride will be today.

This is my first set of Cinch cranks. I've got the pre-load adjuster dialed in to take the play out. Does the spacing on the NDS look normal? This is on a Knolly Warden with 73mm BB, so one spacer on DS, none on NDS.


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## will 6.6 (Feb 1, 2007)

Hi, I'm running the hope bb, but you have it right. One spacer on the DS, no spacer on the NDS. Would be great to here how the RaceFace BB holds up.


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## neb001 (Mar 22, 2007)

jazzanova said:


> WT makes some nice rings too...
> Direct Mount for Race Face Cinch ? wolftoothcomponents.com


That's what I decided to go with for my set. Got the rings in and am now waiting for the crankset to show up


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## mountainbiker2 (Nov 2, 2009)

The pre-load spacer on my bike always gets a little loose. I've tighten the collar according to the instructions. Even if I tighten it more, it wouldn't matter. The two ends on the collar are touching each other. So before every ride, I have to screw in the collar a little by hand. I think I need loctite or something. Any suggestions?
thanks,
Steve


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

mountainbiker2 said:


> The pre-load spacer on my bike always gets a little loose. I've tighten the collar according to the instructions. Even if I tighten it more, it wouldn't matter. The two ends on the collar are touching each other. So before every ride, I have to screw in the collar a little by hand. I think I need loctite or something. Any suggestions?
> thanks,
> Steve


On my xx1 crank I measured the gap and width of the adjuster and replaced it with spacers which worked just fine. Don't know if it'll work on the next sls I have, probably not recommended either. But for my xx1s it solved the adjuster coming lose.


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

There's a chance the preload collar is just out of spec as you shouldn't need to re tighten every ride. PM me your address and I'll send out a replacement collar on Thursday when I'm back in the office.

Cheers,

Devyn 


mountainbiker2 said:


> The pre-load spacer on my bike always gets a little loose. I've tighten the collar according to the instructions. Even if I tighten it more, it wouldn't matter. The two ends on the collar are touching each other. So before every ride, I have to screw in the collar a little by hand. I think I need loctite or something. Any suggestions?
> thanks,
> Steve


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## F5000sl (Aug 8, 2003)

Hi All,
I'm a shop hand at a mostly Tri-shop and I'm building up a SC Tallboy LTc. 
I want to run some Next SL Cinch cranks, my understanding is that these cranks are all 30mm spindled and that the RaceFace Threaded BB comes with a bearing that allows for the 30mm axle over the normal 24mm standard. Correct?


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

That's correct. You'd want this [random link]:
Race Face Cinch BSA 30mm Bottom Bracket | eBay


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Lars_D said:


> "DM" "SL" "DS" "CL." Try using words. People might understand you.


Having a bad day??


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

Is there alternative bb92 cinch bottom bracket? I own a the turbine cinch version, but the raceface bottom bracket is horrible it's not as smooth as Shimano nor sram bottom bracket.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

rave81 said:


> Is there alternative bb92 cinch bottom bracket? I own a the turbine cinch version, but the raceface bottom bracket is horrible it's not as smooth as Shimano nor sram bottom bracket.


Is it rough or is there just a lot of seal drag? If it's just drag, it's nothing to worry about. Just make sure it's properly set up and the drag will decrease over time. You'll never feel it while riding, anyway.


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## Ridnparadise (Dec 14, 2007)

Agreed - there's nothing horrible about the RF BB.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

Bnystrom said:


> Is it rough or is there just a lot of seal drag? If it's just drag, it's nothing to worry about. Just make sure it's properly set up and the drag will decrease over time. You'll never feel it while riding, anyway.


Creaking and dragging. I've been using mine for about 7 months already. Replaced the bj twice it did not resolved the problems.


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

From what I understand the crankhouse diameter of BB92 is quite small, bearings used for 24mm spindles work just fine. But when you use a 30mm spindle something has to give and that's the size of the ballbearings used, which in turn might lead to questionable product life and/or creaks.

If someone can correct me on this I'd be quite happy to hear it, I use BB92 myself.

PS- seeing as Hope has gone 30mm we might see a BB from them sometime in the future.


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## Dikkie (Dec 16, 2005)

Bearing size remains the same, for 24mm axles there is a sleeve between frame and bearing. For 30mm the Press-fit cup itself acts as bearing race. The only negative is, if a bearing gets destroyed, the frame could get damaged. Even removing a stuck bearingcup could damage it.



Vegard said:


> From what I understand the crankhouse diameter of BB92 is quite small, bearings used for 24mm spindles work just fine. But when you use a 30mm spindle something has to give and that's the size of the ballbearings used, which in turn might lead to questionable product life and/or creaks.
> 
> If someone can correct me on this I'd be quite happy to hear it, I use BB92 myself.
> 
> PS- seeing as Hope has gone 30mm we might see a BB from them sometime in the future.


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

Thanks for setting it straight, I have only heard talk about it =)


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

will 6.6 said:


> Hi, I'm running the hope bb, but you have it right. One spacer on the DS, no spacer on the NDS. Would be great to here how the RaceFace BB holds up.


Hi, did you need to use additional spacers with the hope bsa30 bb? Could you get the cranks centred on the frame ok? . I'm having some issues and would appreciate you describing what you did. . Thanks.


----------



## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

rscecil007 said:


> I installed my set last night, really nice cranks, first ride will be today.
> 
> This is my first set of Cinch cranks. I've got the pre-load adjuster dialed in to take the play out. Does the spacing on the NDS look normal? This is on a Knolly Warden with 73mm BB, so one spacer on DS, none on NDS.
> 
> View attachment 960028


Hi, the space does look too big. I'm getting the same experience with my Warden. Could you get the cranks to centre on the frame? I'm having some issues with getting it right. Any advice appreciated.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

Vegard said:


> From what I understand the crankhouse diameter of BB92 is quite small, bearings used for 24mm spindles work just fine. But when you use a 30mm spindle something has to give and that's the size of the ballbearings used, which in turn might lead to questionable product life and/or creaks.
> 
> If someone can correct me on this I'd be quite happy to hear it, I use BB92 myself.
> 
> PS- seeing as Hope has gone 30mm we might see a BB from them sometime in the future.


I am currently using the raceface bb92 cinch bottom bracket for several reasons. The centre plastic cup is too long it doesn't fit properly in my Lapierre spicy team, constant creaking and noticeable drag. I've been using the cinch system for 7 months replaced the bottom bracket twice but it has the same problem.

Now I'll ask my lbs to replace the bb with ceramic gxp and install xx1 crank less headache

is there a stiffness difference between xx1 and next so with 30mm spindle?


----------



## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

None that I can notice for trail use, what you sacrifice is weight as the xx1 crank is heavier.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Snozz said:


> Hi, the space does look too big. I'm getting the same experience with my Warden. Could you get the cranks to centre on the frame? I'm having some issues with getting it right. Any advice appreciated.


What exactly do you mean my centered? I followed the instructions installing them, but the ends of the crank arms seem equidistant from the chain stays, etc. Is that where you're having an issue?


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

Yes distance of crank arms from stays. Looks like the Hope cups are shorter than RaceFaces so I'll need to space it out.


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

I followed the installation instructions to the dot with a rf bb92 on my devinci atlas, following the instructions the cranks had different distances from the chainstays. Fixed it by putting a spacer on the opposite side to get it all centered.


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## will 6.6 (Feb 1, 2007)

Snozz, sorry for the delay. 
Tried to have a look at my set up, but can't really see anything, from what I remember, I had the shop face my BB, as the threads were abit crap, they used spacers but it didn't work v well, I think I followed the RF directions that came with the SL's (1 spacer I think). it's centered fine on the Warden, and has been great since, will be pulling apart in next few weeks as it's been abused quite abit!! Will confirm exactly then if you still need info. 
Cheers


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

will 6.6 said:


> Snozz, sorry for the delay.
> Tried to have a look at my set up, but can't really see anything, from what I remember, I had the shop face my BB, as the threads were abit crap, they used spacers but it didn't work v well, I think I followed the RF directions that came with the SL's (1 spacer I think). it's centered fine on the Warden, and has been great since, will be pulling apart in next few weeks as it's been abused quite abit!! Will confirm exactly then if you still need info.
> Cheers


Hey thanks. Got it sorted. The RaceFace cinch spindle is longer than normal so I needed a couple of spacers to centre the cranks in the Hope bb. I was Hoping (pun intended) for a better chain line but no choice with RaceFace cinch. I don't get why they didn't use a 49mm CL as intended for use with the 11 speed cassette. Read them saying it's only 2mm so doesn't matter. But clearly it will cause unnecessary wear in the big ring for no benefit that I can see. I will need to space out the top chain guide as well. 
Anyways my new bike is nearly built up and can't wait to go for a ride. Been way too long.


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## azbeersnob (Jun 27, 2008)

Installed with no issues...amazing how much lighter these cranks are than the XT's.


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## rhysjenz (Mar 3, 2012)

Just an FYI to anyone with a BSA threaded 68/73/83mm bottom bracket.

If you're looking to use a Hope bottom bracket, like people have discussed above, you want the BBSS30N (as per this chart).

I got in touch with Hope/Race Face about compatibility, and the external width of the Race Face cups is 11.5mm, while the Hope cups are 10.2mm. So you need to space out each side by around 1mm. Sam from Race Face said:



> ...those cups [the Hope ones] will be right in the ball park, ours are 11.5mm so if you use two 1mm spindle spacers that will be fine. The Pre load collar can take from 2-5mm of play up after the crank bolt is tight so I would order some spacers but you might actually not need to use them. Just make sure there is enough thread engaged in the preload collar and you aren't stretching it much past the 5mm.


If you do get the Hope BBSS30N bottom bracket, you also need the tool HTT188. I'd guess this would also apply to any other Hope bottom bracket for a 30mm spindle.


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## regularbob (Aug 6, 2013)

rhysjenz said:


> Just an FYI to anyone with a BSA threaded 68/73/83mm bottom bracket.
> 
> If you're looking to use a Hope bottom bracket, like people have discussed above, you want the BBSS30N (as per this chart).
> 
> ...


Good find rhysjenz! That sounds like the perfect combo for my SC SoloC... a RF Next SL crank + Hope BB. Now to save up the $'s!


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## Lornholio (Mar 5, 2013)

So I'll finally be building my new bike in the next few weeks (still a month of skiing left before I'll ride it for real). I went for Raceface's BSA 30 BB in the end, seems fine, certainly a step up from the usual cheap Shimano I replace each year.

Question for now: are the BSA 30's bearings removeable/serviceable/replaceable? Just thinking ahead. It's an expensive BB if they're not. They won't pull out with fingers anyway, so use a blind bearing puller or a careful screwdriver tap from the inside out?

Thanks again for the wealth of knowledge in this thread for crank/BB setup, very useful.


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

Is there a bottom bracket tool for the Race Face BSA30 bottom bracket cups that can be used with a ratchet? Something similar to this Hollowtech II tool here:









I find it more convenient to install the bottom bracket with such a tool compared to the standard Race Face tool.


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## Toddmac1 (Aug 6, 2007)

Abbey Bike Tools for $60

Bottom Bracket Socket- BSA30 - Abbey Bike Tools

Or RWC for $50

RWC Exteral BB30 Cup Tool by Real World Cycling


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

Toddmac1 said:


> Abbey Bike Tools for $60
> 
> Bottom Bracket Socket- BSA30 - Abbey Bike Tools
> 
> ...


Awesome! The Abbey Bike Tools BSA30 tool is exactly what I was looking for (even though quite pricey...). Thank you very much!


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## Jon_irun (Mar 21, 2011)

Vegard said:


> Which tool is required to swap chainrings?


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## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

Would like some feedback on the 50mm chainline. That is a few millimeters out from where I like to be. Any issue with the chain dropping when freewheeling on a 42 tooth cog?


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## MTBMILES (Dec 27, 2007)

No problems on my Ripley. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Toddmac1 (Aug 6, 2007)

I think this really depends on your frame, some have issues with 50+mm chain lines & large cogs others don't. Typically bikes with short chain stays will have more issues since it increases the cross chain angle.

Next SL cranks have a 51mm chain line in 1x setup. Not sure why they did this since Sram's 11 speed chain line is 49mm & Shimano's is 48.8mm.

Wolf Tooth makes direct mount chain rings for RF Cinch cranks with a 49mm Chain line. 

My chain would drop off the 42t cog with a 50mm chain line so I added 2mm spacers. 
I now have SixC cranks with a WT chain ring & the chain does not drop when pedaled backwards.

This for a Knolly Chilcotin, 26" wheels with 16.9" chain stays.


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## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

Thanks. I thought it was 50mm, didn't realize it was 51mm. Just found that I can get a Bionicon oval ring in 47 mm offset in 30 tooth or 49mm in 32. I have a Mach 6, so stays are really close to your Chilcoten. Why did you switch to the SixC? Have a buddy that will make me a good deal on his Sixc, although the inner weight weenie in me wants the Next SL. First world problems.


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## Toddmac1 (Aug 6, 2007)

Yeah really, I was never a weight weenie but light parts are much stronger now. 
I went with SixC because I ride my Chilcotin at Bike parks often, I am not that heavy or abusive but I like to hit the jumps & drops. Cranks were Gravity Light.
I haven't tried Next SL cranks yet but I am considering them for my trail bike.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

Toddmac1 said:


> I think this really depends on your frame, some have issues with 50+mm chain lines & large cogs others don't. Typically bikes with short chain stays will have more issues since it increases the cross chain angle.
> 
> Next SL cranks have a 51mm chain line in 1x setup. Not sure why they did this since Sram's 11 speed chain line is 49mm & Shimano's is 48.8mm.
> 
> ...


Did you measure your chainline with WT ring? When I used it with a cinch spindle it was 51mm same as a RF ring. I think the 49mm is when used with a non-cinch spindle which are around 3mm shorter.


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## Toddmac1 (Aug 6, 2007)

A WT 104 BCD ring on Cinch cranks with 3x spider will be 51mm. WT makes a direct mount RF Cinch chain rings with 49mm chain line (51mm for 36T).

My previous setup was Gravity Light cranks with WT 32t 104BCD chain ring +2mm spacers, W/O spacers the chain would drop when pedaling backwards. Published chain line is 50mm. My current setup is Races Face SixC with WT direct mount RF Cinch 32t ring, this combo does not drop pedaling backwards. Published chain line is 49mm. 

I have not verified chain line dims.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

I've put the WT 32t ring on cinch DM next cranks and the chain line measures 51mm. That's why I think the advertised 49mm is not on the longer cinch spindle.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Thanks for the update Snozz. That is interesting. Maybe we need to state it differently, but our rings centerline is 2mm inboard from where the RF one is, and the published chainline is 51 for their ring (so that is where we get our number from). 

A couple things we have found in exhaustive chainline measuring:
1. It is really hard to measure any more accurately than +/- 1mm
2. It is difficult to get crank arms perfectly centered better than ~1-2mm on any bikes where BB or spindle spacers are involved (like Trek).

-Brendan


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

Thanks Brendan. . Yes I appreciate it is hard to measure but I did go to some effort. The CL measured a tad under 51mm. I used thin spacers to centre the cranks (small issue when using RF cranks with a Hope BB because the cinch spindle is a bit longer). Also I haven't measured the CL on my bike with a RF or SRAM ring. I bought the WT because I wanted the chain line to be consistent with the 11 cog cassette design. It's a good chain ring! I don't have any shifting issues but the CL is not great in the (soft) big cog and it would be better if the CL was a couple of mm more inboard. Of course I could move it over a bit but then the cranks wouldn't be centred and I am a pedant. Cheers.


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## whoodie (Apr 15, 2012)

Just installed my Next SL crank and BSA-30 bottom bracket and had issues getting the cranks to spin smoothly, even with one pedal on the crank would not fall under it's own weight. I installed them on a Tallboy LTc which has a 73mm BB shell which requires one shim on the driveside BB cup. After double and triple checking everything I installed the cups without the plastic sleeve in between them and voila! Butter smooth spinning. Am I going to run into issues long term by having not installed the plastic sleeve? Where I ride, if the ground is moist, the trails are closed. However there are water crossings, but nothing so deep that the BB would be submerged. I checked the BB shell and it's not open to any of the frame tubes (sort of new to bikes, so this may be normal). Any advice would be appreciated, thanks guys!


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## DudeDowne (Jun 18, 2012)

Whoodie...
I just installed a set of RaceFace Next SL cranks on my 2014 Transition Bandit 29. I opted for the Real World Cycling threaded bb and found I needed (1) cup spacer on the drive side to get within the RF recommended 98mm outside cup spec. I then found that (4) of the derlin spindle washers worked to fill the spindle gap on the NDS. I tried the aluminum spindle spacer that is included with the RWC be but it would put too much preload on the bearings and the cranks didn't spin freely.

Short version...

IMHO Real World has a seemingly great BB and they include a great variety of spacers to get chainlines and preload perfect.


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## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

whoodie said:


> Just installed my Next SL crank and BSA-30 bottom bracket and had issues getting the cranks to spin smoothly, even with one pedal on the crank would not fall under it's own weight. I installed them on a Tallboy LTc which has a 73mm BB shell which requires one shim on the driveside BB cup. After double and triple checking everything I installed the cups without the plastic sleeve in between them and voila! Butter smooth spinning. Am I going to run into issues long term by having not installed the plastic sleeve? Where I ride, if the ground is moist, the trails are closed. However there are water crossings, but nothing so deep that the BB would be submerged. I checked the BB shell and it's not open to any of the frame tubes (sort of new to bikes, so this may be normal). Any advice would be appreciated, thanks guys!


If your tubes are sealed off like that, no problem dropping the plastic sleeve. It's actually probably more likely to hold water in since the BB axle would be the only place it could enter.


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## TiTony (Feb 21, 2013)

Lost my set screw for the collar on my Next SL cranks. Anyone know the specs on the screw? It's a 2 or 2.5mm socket head I think - but I don't know how long it was, etc. Thanks in advance.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

whoodie, the sleeve is known to cause drag like you are experiencing. Shop I bought my turbine setup from excluded it from all of its bb setups, and they have sold dozens of them.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

jonshonda said:


> whoodie, the sleeve is known to cause drag like you are experiencing. Shop I bought my turbine setup from excluded it from all of its bb setups, and they have sold dozens of them.


It doesn't make sense that the sleeve would cause any drag, as it doesn't touch the bearings or the spindle. For it to rub, it would have to be installed incorrectly, that is, not seated in the cups at both ends.

A proper length sleeve provides important moisture protection for the bearings. Without a sleeve, you'd better have a drain hole in the BB or a perfectly water-sealed frame. Otherwise, they could end up sitting in a puddle, rotting out from the inside.


----------



## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

TiTony said:


> Lost my set screw for the collar on my Next SL cranks. Anyone know the specs on the screw? It's a 2 or 2.5mm socket head I think - but I don't know how long it was, etc. Thanks in advance.


Replaced mine with a m3 15mm Philips head bolt. It's 5mm longer than needed but doesñt matter.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Bnystrom said:


> It doesn't make sense that the sleeve would cause any drag, as it doesn't touch the bearings or the spindle. For it to rub, it would have to be installed incorrectly, that is, not seated in the cups at both ends.


You might not be familiar w/ this setup. The tolerances are very tight w/ regards to were the sleeve inserts. Very reputable shops advised the sleeve not be installed, as they had nothing but trouble with dozens of them.


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## krzyray (Jan 23, 2004)

I'm getting a bike built up and I heard Race Face suffered a production problem affecting the Next SL cranks. They are saying it's a 2-3 month lead time now. Can anyone verify this? Thanks.


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## Lornholio (Mar 5, 2013)

jonshonda said:


> Very reputable shops advised the sleeve not be installed, as they had nothing but trouble with dozens of them.


Good info, thanks. I installed my Next SLs with Raceface's BSA30 BB this week and it was pretty draggy at first. Better without the sleeve and freed up nicely during the first ride.

I'm wondering about the preload collar though - how tight should it be? The collar itself I mean, not the tiny screw. I snugged it up just enough to take out any lateral play when I first installed the cranks, then after the first ride there was a little play so I readjusted it and it seemed fine for all of a short ride today. If I tighten it more than "just enough to take out any play", I mean pretty much as tight as I can manage by hand, then the cranks still spin very freely with no drag. So how tight is best?

I also replaced that tiny screw with some M3x12mm socket capscrews as advised in this thread. 8mm would have been perfect, but they work fine. But... I snapped one when I first installed it, which was a real pain in the ass to remove with a file & pliers afterwards, so go easy! Actually, the fact that mine are 12mm made removal of the snapped half possible. Maybe this is why the stock screw has such a tiny head. so that the hex head will strip befor ethe screw snaps. You'd still be in trouble if that happened though.


----------



## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

Lornholio said:


> Good info, thanks. I installed my Next SLs with Raceface's BSA30 BB this week and it was pretty draggy at first. Better without the sleeve and freed up nicely during the first ride.
> 
> I'm wondering about the preload collar though - how tight should it be? The collar itself I mean, not the tiny screw. I snugged it up just enough to take out any lateral play when I first installed the cranks, then after the first ride there was a little play so I readjusted it and it seemed fine for all of a short ride today. If I tighten it more than "just enough to take out any play", I mean pretty much as tight as I can manage by hand, then the cranks still spin very freely with no drag. So how tight is best?
> 
> I also replaced that tiny screw with some M3x12mm socket capscrews as advised in this thread. 8mm would have been perfect, but they work fine. But... I snapped one when I first installed it, which was a real pain in the ass to remove with a file & pliers afterwards, so go easy! Actually, the fact that mine are 12mm made removal of the snapped half possible. Maybe this is why the stock screw has such a tiny head. so that the hex head will strip befor ethe screw snaps. You'd still be in trouble if that happened though.


Mine kept coming loose. Over tightened the Allen bolt and stripped it of course. Replaced with Philips head and can tighten it well. It hard to overntighten it with a Philips head cause the screwdriver wants to jump out once it's tight. Hasn't come loose after half a dozen hard rides.


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## Uphill=sad (Dec 8, 2011)

Did the same, the origonal was made from the softest alloy made. got 10 screws for less than $2, working good.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

Uphill=sad said:


> Did the same, the origonal was made from the softest alloy made.


That may have been intentional, in order to reduce the likelihood of over-tightening and stripping the threads in the collar. If it won't stay tight, use Loctite #222 or #242 to keep it in place, rather than cranking on it.


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## mattwright999 (Jun 25, 2014)

Where did everyone order there replacement screws from?


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## 8iking VIIking (Dec 20, 2012)

mattwright999 said:


> Where did everyone order there replacement screws from?


The nearest hardware store


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## MaHoM (Dec 30, 2014)

Hey guys, i wanted to know if the hope tool was suitable for the RF BB bsa 30mm, searching for hours now, but couldn't get any intel on that. 

I think that the RF is 12 notch but the hope is 16 unfortunatly, someone to confirm/infirm on that`?


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

MaHoM said:


> Hey guys, i wanted to know if the hope tool was suitable for the RF BB bsa 30mm, searching for hours now, but couldn't get any intel on that.
> 
> I think that the RF is 12 notch but the hope is 16 unfortunatly, someone to confirm/infirm on that`?


Yep your right. Different notches


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## DudeDowne (Jun 18, 2012)

Does anyone know where to get a tool to intall/remove the outer caps on the retaining bolt?


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## TJay74 (Sep 26, 2012)

Been following this thread for a bit now, did some research and hoping that sometimes in August I will have my RF Next SL on my bike. Going with the DM and a 32T chain ring for now, later on this year once we get the new house built then I will be swapping my XT 10spd stuff over to either SRAM XX1 or Shimano XTR 1x11.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

i have a set of sixc cranks, on which the preload adjuster ring is aluminium. on a set of next sl the preload adjuster seems to be plastic and instead of an M3 bolt, it has a 2mm allen head screw, with a relatively coarse thread. anyone else with this?


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

DudeDowne said:


> Does anyone know where to get a tool to intall/remove the outer caps on the retaining bolt?


Grainger or Amazon for 9/16" hex wrench.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

this?

www.silverfish-uk.com/ProductDetail/0/16395/Cinch-Puller-Cap-Bolt-Tool


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## sohnice (Sep 5, 2010)

DudeDowne said:


> Does anyone know where to get a tool to intall/remove the outer caps on the retaining bolt?


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004W81GKO?ref_=redir_mobile_desktop&ref_=yo_ii_img
Good quality 16mm socket.


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## sohnice (Sep 5, 2010)

Double post.


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## Leo MTB (Jan 15, 2014)

Mine Next SL cranks came with a cheap plastic preload ring instead of the aluminium one, why is that?


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

Probably to save a gram or two. Light weight is the selling point of the Next SL versus the other Cinch crank models.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Leo MTB said:


> Mine Next SL cranks came with a cheap plastic preload ring instead of the aluminium one, why is that?


Did you contact them and ask? In the time it took to post here you could have emailed them.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

TwoTone said:


> Did you contact them and ask? In the time it took to post here you could have emailed them.


What's the big deal? It's not as if there has been an epidemic of preload ring failures on Next SL cranks.

Ride your bike and enjoy it, rather than sweating this unimportant stuff. :thumbsup:


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Bnystrom said:


> What's the big deal? It's not as if there has been an epidemic of preload ring failures on Next SL cranks.
> 
> Ride your bike and enjoy it, rather than sweating this unimportant stuff. :thumbsup:


You sure you meant to quote me? I'm not sweating anything.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

leo mtb: not quite sure why the high expressed emotion to your question, which i also asked! i always thought that was the purpose of forums! 

i have a plastic one too. seems functional...just not quite as nice in use. i wondered if it had somethign to do with the wee bolt that was rounding on the aluminium ones...the plastic ones seem to have a screw with a coarse thread....anyhoo. interesting. 

id rather have the alu one, for some reason, i use a wee M3 ti bolt i had for the preloader i have on the Sixc i use and its been great, so i think ill keep an eye out for alu ones becoming available 'aftermarket' - though interestingly no where in uk or europe seems to ahve stock anymore, which makes me wonder if raceface are going to plastic accross the board for this part. we'll see.


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## Trond (Mar 7, 2004)

RaceFace-suit said:


> There's a chance the preload collar is just out of spec as you shouldn't need to re tighten every ride. PM me your address and I'll send out a replacement collar on Thursday when I'm back in the office.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Devyn


I have the same issue. collars touch and I need to preload on every ride. Comes loose sometimes on the trail too.


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## Leo MTB (Jan 15, 2014)

dRjOn said:


> leo mtb: not quite sure why the high expressed emotion to your question, which i also asked! i always thought that was the purpose of forums!
> 
> i have a plastic one too. seems functional...just not quite as nice in use. i wondered if it had somethign to do with the wee bolt that was rounding on the aluminium ones...the plastic ones seem to have a screw with a coarse thread....anyhoo. interesting.
> 
> id rather have the alu one, for some reason, i use a wee M3 ti bolt i had for the preloader i have on the Sixc i use and its been great, so i think ill keep an eye out for alu ones becoming available 'aftermarket' - though interestingly no where in uk or europe seems to ahve stock anymore, which makes me wonder if raceface are going to plastic accross the board for this part. we'll see.


I just don´t think that the plastic threads will hold up for a long time as the aluminium does. This plastic preload collar is just fugly and IMHO has no place in a crankset with a price this high.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

i agree: i've ordered a 'spare' one now. i'll update once i have it and let you know if it is alu or plastic.'


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

Leo MTB said:


> This plastic preload collar is just fugly...


You really spend so much time looking at your preload collar that it offends you???

Seriously, just ride your bike and enjoy it. Nobody seems to be having any issues with the durability of the plastic collars. All this bellyaching isn't going to change anything. If and when there's an actual problem, then you'll have something to complain about.


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## Leo MTB (Jan 15, 2014)

Bnystrom said:


> You really spend so much time looking at your preload collar that it offends you???
> 
> Seriously, just ride your bike and enjoy it. Nobody seems to be having any issues with the durability of the plastic collars. All this bellyaching isn't going to change anything. If and when there's an actual problem, then you'll have something to complain about.


"Go ride your bike...." 
I think we all here ride bikes and that is not the topic in question. This forum is meant to express opinions and thoughts about any aspects of this particular product, not to try telling people what to do. Seems like you care more about the preload collar think than all the people posting about it, go ride bike yourself instead of whining about others posts.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

You completely missed the point. The preload collars work fine and discussing them to death here is pointless. You're creating a problem where none exists and it seems as if you're letting this interfere with your enjoyment of your bike, which is equally pointless. There are things worth worrying about and things that aren't, which is what I was trying to point out. If you want to keep complaining here, that's your choice. I'm done with it. 

And for the record, what I said was: "Seriously, just ride your bike and enjoy it", not "Go ride your bike." If you can't tell the difference in tone, that's not my fault.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

welp. fwiw, i received my extra preload collar and it is the plastic version with the screw rather than aluminium with a bolt. glad to have a spare as i have 3 sets of the cinch cranks on the go. guess they have moved to plastic in general? fair enough...


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Bnystrom said:


> You completely missed the point. The preload collars work fine and discussing them to death here is pointless. You're creating a problem where none exists and it seems as if you're letting this interfere with your enjoyment of your bike, which is equally pointless. There are things worth worrying about and things that aren't, which is what I was trying to point out. If you want to keep complaining here, that's your choice. I'm done with it.
> 
> And for the record, what I said was: "Seriously, just ride your bike and enjoy it", not "Go ride your bike." If you can't tell the difference in tone, that's not my fault.


Perhaps it's YOU who is a little myopic w/ this mountain biking thing. There ARE other aspects than just riding the bike, albeit it's the majority part. Wrenching on them so your scoot works as it should is also not insignificant, considering how many high zoot scoots I've seen at trails w/ complete crap setup and upkeep. Ever seen anyone progress from beginner to intermediate over the span of a single week simply by getting her bike setup (the ergo, suspension, shifting, tire pressure, brakes) dialed in better? Perhaps THIS is why people on here are fussing over a plastic preload collar and YOU are just a mechanical maladroit whose bike sounds like a bag of scrap metal from the junk yard?


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

I was in the bike business as a manager/mechanic for 9 years, so don't give me any crap about not being able to work on bikes. I've built and tuned thousands of bikes, fit thousands of customers and have built over a thousand wheels.

Apparently you like to make unsupported assumptions about people in a feeble effort to support your whining about something that's insignificant to anyone's enjoyment of their bike, except you. I tried to be nice, but at this point, you can take your condescending attitude and stick it where the sun don't shine. I'm through with you and this stupidity.

Now maybe we can get back to discussing something useful, unless you're just determined to make an even bigger fool of yourself.


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## merlin01 (Feb 28, 2010)

I bought my Next SL's a couple weeks ago from Pricepoint and it has the aluminum collar.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

Has anyone found an online vendor who has the fat-bike version of the Next SL in stock? I've been looking for a while and haven't had any luck?


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

Race Face Next SL Cinch Fat Bike DM Crank Arms | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## caad4rep (Sep 7, 2011)

Does anyone know what size bolt is used for the plastic preload collar? Mine seems to have disappeared.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

the plastic one seems to use a screw rather than a bolt with a coarse thread, 2mm allen key. not sen anything like it elsewhere...the alu one used a 10mm or so M3 bolt.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Bnystrom said:


> Has anyone found an online vendor who has the fat-bike version of the Next SL in stock? I've been looking for a while and haven't had any luck?


My local shop got me mine from QBP and at a competitive price to online retailers, without me asking for a discount. Maybe give em a shot if you have a good shop?


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## turfnsurf (Nov 24, 2007)

*Broken Next SL Crank Arm*

So am I the only person on here to question the strength of this crankset? I hit a pedal on a rock a few weeks ago and a few miles later into the ride the crankarm broke in half. Granted, I hit the damn rock pretty hard...it stopped me! But the crankarm itself had the protector boot on and it didn't even take a direct hit. This occurred during an Enduro race, which was a bummer. Cranks came on the bike which I got used, so no warranty :~( 
I've been riding mountain bikes for almost 30 years and this is the first crankset I've broken, and I've only had it for 6 weeks.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

Since you bought the bike used, it's impossible to know if the failure was due only to your incident with the rock or if the previous owner did some damage and weakened it. That's the downside of buying anything carbon used; damage isn't always obvious, even to the previous owner. I would contact Race Face anyway, as they may be interested in examining your crank to determine how/why it broke. Who knows, they may do something for you.


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## JQualey (Aug 27, 2013)

turfnsurf said:


> So am I the only person on here to question the strength of this crankset? I hit a pedal on a rock a few weeks ago and a few miles later into the ride the crankarm broke in half. Granted, I hit the damn rock pretty hard...it stopped me! But the crankarm itself had the protector boot on and it didn't even take a direct hit. This occurred during an Enduro race, which was a bummer. Cranks came on the bike which I got used, so no warranty :~(
> I've been riding mountain bikes for almost 30 years and this is the first crankset I've broken, and I've only had it for 6 weeks.


I got a set on a SC Bronson last summer. Over the last few weeks my bike has been creaking while pedaling. I replaced the bearings in my Links and my D/U bushing. Still creaking. Come to find out, the non-drive side crank arm de-bonded from the metal insert that bolts to the BB. Sent them back last week for warranty.


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## rensho (Mar 8, 2004)

Has anyone figured out how to decrease the chainline on this crank? At 51mm it sux and will wear the big cog, chainring and chain far far far too quickly.
My s1400 crank with a 30T ring, non DM i think ends up to be 45 or 46mm chainline, and for the Bronson, it is acceptable.


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## 8iking VIIking (Dec 20, 2012)

rensho said:


> Has anyone figured out how to decrease the chainline on this crank? At 51mm it sux and will wear the big cog, chainring and chain far far far too quickly.
> My s1400 crank with a 30T ring, non DM i think ends up to be 45 or 46mm chainline, and for the Bronson, it is acceptable.


Wolf tooth cinch rings have a 49mm chainline. Here's a picture of mine with an XO1 cassette. Looks about dead on to me









Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

merlin01 said:


> I bought my Next SL's a couple weeks ago from Pricepoint and it has the aluminum collar.


My Next SLs have a alu collar aswell, my turbines have plastic.

Anyone know where I can buy an aluminium collar? The plastic one broke before even tightening the slop.


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## rensho (Mar 8, 2004)

8iking VIIking said:


> Wolf tooth cinch rings have a 49mm chainline. Here's a picture of mine with an XO1 cassette. Looks about dead on to me
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for taking the pic.

49mm is better than 51mm.

Oneup makes a 49 as well.
OneUp Components US - Cinch Direct Mount Traction Chainrings

I'm mostly talking about, and concerned for all the times we spend in the big cog, or 2nd biggest.

Edit: I think my setup is 47mm currently.


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## DTM2u (Oct 30, 2013)

Can anyone tell me how much weight difference there is between the Next SL cranks and the cranks on the 2015 S-Works Epic WC?


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

Bummer. Got a pic?

I have the old Next SL, old SixC, and new Next SL cranks. I think I ride pretty hard (Santa Cruz mountains) and I haven't had any problems w/ the carbon itself. You can see all sorts of broken carbon cranks after Rampage, but that's not normal riding (and crashing) by any means.



turfnsurf said:


> So am I the only person on here to question the strength of this crankset? I hit a pedal on a rock a few weeks ago and a few miles later into the ride the crankarm broke in half. Granted, I hit the damn rock pretty hard...it stopped me! But the crankarm itself had the protector boot on and it didn't even take a direct hit. This occurred during an Enduro race, which was a bummer. Cranks came on the bike which I got used, so no warranty :~(
> I've been riding mountain bikes for almost 30 years and this is the first crankset I've broken, and I've only had it for 6 weeks.


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

So, anyone know a store with this in stock?  
My plastic one broke.

wiggle.com | Race Face Next SL 'Cinch' Crank Arm Bearing Pre-Loader | MTB Chainsets


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## golfduke (Mar 20, 2007)

RE: Using M3x12 scoket head cap screws to replace the cheapy broken screw that race face supplies when you are an idiot and overtorque it and snap the stupid thing. 




Just had this happen and this solution worked perfect.


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## supermuck (Oct 1, 2015)

I just installed the RF Next SL crank set (170mm crank arm length) together with a HOPE bsa30 bb on my bike. Interestingly the clearance between the crank arm and the chainstays is only about 2-3mm (without the boot) on either side. When riding a bit harder the cranks arms bend just enough to touch the stays.
Can I increase the clearance by adding spacers? This has got nothing to do with the spacers used on the bb. Correct? According to RF there is only one spindle available for 68/73mm shells.


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

Which cranks were you using before? Spacing should be very similar and you should have ~1cm on each side.

Do you have a 63mm shell? If so, I think you need 2x drive-side and 1x non-drive side spacers. Even with those spacers it's still going to be tight. Weird.

Which frame/bike do you have?



supermuck said:


> I just installed the RF Next SL crank set (170mm crank arm length) together with a HOPE bsa30 bb on my bike. Interestingly the clearance between the crank arm and the chainstays is only about 2-3mm (without the boot) on either side. When riding a bit harder the cranks arms bend just enough to touch the stays.
> Can I increase the clearance by adding spacers? This has got nothing to do with the spacers used on the bb. Correct? According to RF there is only one spindle available for 68/73mm shells.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

I think your out of luck. Maybe a set of cranks with bigger q factor is needed. What frame is it?


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## supermuck (Oct 1, 2015)

Thanks. I was using SRAM X1 1000 (175mm) before and it hasn't been an issue. Can't remember the clearance though.
Currently the bb is spaced 1,5 DS and 0,5 NDS to achieve the 98,1mm BB width as suggested by RF
The frame is a Stanton Switchback Ti with a 68mm shell. Stanton is advertising this bike with the RF Next SL.
https://www.stantonbikes.com/complete-bikes/#!


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## Dikkie (Dec 16, 2005)

On the Stanton site 73 mm BB is mentioned, but this should'nt have anything to do with it.
Didn't hear anything about RF releasing a lower Q-factor crankset.
Looks like your crankaxle is shorter than it should be. Weird.

Perhaps you could measure the axle and take some pics? Especially from the crankarm-axle interface.


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## supermuck (Oct 1, 2015)

Your're right Dikkie. The shell measures 73mm. Tried to measure the spindle length but failed. I don't have a 16mm allen key to get the NDS crank arm off.
Here some pics of the crank...


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## Dikkie (Dec 16, 2005)

To me it looks like the frame has lots of tire clearance and no S-bend chainstay. 
Even your chainring is almost touching the frame.
For 73mm shell you should use one 2,5mm spacer on the drive side. That brings it to 96,5mm width overall.
To achieve more width, add spacers on both sides (1mm?) for 98,1mm.
Its actually 98,1 +/- 1mm, so spacers can be a bit thicker.

If this doesn't work than bad points to Stanton??


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

Dikkie said:


> To me it looks like the frame has lots of tire clearance and no S-bend chainstay.
> Even your chainring is almost touching the frame.
> For 73mm shell you should use one 2,5mm spacer on the drive side. That brings it to 96,5mm width overall.
> To achieve more width, add spacers on both sides (1mm?) for 98,1mm.
> ...


Looks to me like it's a frame / crank spindle problem. 
Adding spacers to the BB will not solve this issue. It will only serve to widen the bearing placement seat on the spindle. Also it will not allow the crank arms to be seated on the spindle far enough (unless there is enough movement in the preload collar to negate this). This will result in a damaged crank arm / spindle interface when pedaling.

A longer spindle is required unfortunately. Perhaps one from a Cannondale Hollowgram crankset could be utilised. I believe they are compatible. There is a German manufacturer that makes spindles of the required length(and lack of bearing stop) to fit Hollowgram cranks to BSA30 BB's. Not cheap from recollection. It all depends on how badly the cranks need to fit the frame as to how much is to be spent to make it happen.

Raceface/Hollowgram discussion 

Or better yet the Raceface RF143 or RF149 spindle giving an extra 9mm or 15mm respectively Q - factor. Depending on required heel clearance extra spacers may be required also.

Raceface spindle codes/chainline table

Fat Biker


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## Dikkie (Dec 16, 2005)

I'm skeptical, the Sram X1-1000 cranks had the same Q-factor and fitted OK.
Was the Next SL NDS crank really as close to the chainstay as on the DS? 
With a longer axle, the chainline will worsen (51mm isn't already that good)


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## supermuck (Oct 1, 2015)

According to the specs of RF and SRAM both cranksets have a q-factor of 168. q-factor is measured from the outside face of the both arms. The SRAM arm is about 13mm wide - the RF Next arm is about 15mm wide. That makes the difference!
Fat biker brings the problem to the point. It's the spindle which needs to be wider. I have a cannondale spindle (132mm) laying around. Compared it with the RF spindle (134mm) and they appear to have the same spindle/crank arm interface. Only difference I noticed it the groove it has. see picture. There is a german website (bottom bracket SL2 MTB BB30PF and BB30 137mm) which sells all sorts of spindle lengths. They have a 137mm version which should solve my problem. 129 EUR is quite steep though. This spindle would also move the chain line further out which is just to oppositve of what I would want to achieve.
At the end of the day it's the Stanton frame which lacks of the S-bent stays. I'm considering to go back to the old SRAM crankset now. Shame!


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## supermuck (Oct 1, 2015)

Both RF Next SL and SRAM X1 have a Q-factor of 168mm. Q-factor is measured from the outside faces of the crank arms. Difference is the thinkness of the arms itself (RF 15mm / SRAM 13).
I have a 132mm Cannondale Hollowgram spindle laying around. Compared the crankarm/spindle interfaces and they are identical. The current RF spindle is 134mm long so it wouldn't work. There is a german website which sells a Cannondale spindle of 137mm (SPINDLE-SI MTN. 137MM).
But Dikkie is right - it would ruin the chainline which is already not ideal.
My conclusion is that if the Stanton frame had the typical S-bent chain stays the RF crank set would work. I'll still try to get hold of someone from Stanton to ask them how the put the RF crank on their complete bike.
At the moment it looks like I have to go back to the old SRAM crank. Shame.


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## supermuck (Oct 1, 2015)

Both RF Next SL and SRAM X1 have a Q-factor of 168mm. Q-factor is measured from the outside faces of the crank arms. Difference is the thinkness of the arms itself (RF 15mm / SRAM 13).
I have a 132mm Cannondale Hollowgram spindle laying around. Compared the crankarm/spindle interfaces and they are identical. The current RF spindle is 134mm long so it wouldn't work. There is a german website which sells a Cannondale spindle of 137mm (SPINDLE-SI MTN. 137MM).
But Dikkie is right - it would ruin the chainline which is already not ideal.
My conclusion is that if the Stanton frame had the typical S-bent chain stays the RF crank set would work. I'll still try to get hold of someone from Stanton to ask them how the put the RF crank on their complete bike.
At the moment it looks like I have to go back to the old SRAM crank. Shame.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

Dikkie said:


> To me it looks like the frame has lots of tire clearance and no S-bend chainstay.
> Even your chainring is almost touching the frame.
> For 73mm shell you should use one 2,5mm spacer on the drive side. That brings it to 96,5mm width overall.
> To achieve more width, add spacers on both sides (1mm?) for 98,1mm.
> ...


Agree, you need to use 2.5mm spacer on the DS. Because the hope bsa30 BB is a bit shorter between the bearing faces than the raceface BB also use a 1.5 mm spacer on the NDS to use up some of that space. Then to get the cranks perfectly centred I used a couple of 0.6mm spacers extra on the DS. YOu should get 2mm more than what have in the photo.


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

Snozz said:


> Agree, you need to use 2.5mm spacer on the DS. Because the hope bsa30 BB is a bit shorter between the bearing faces than the raceface BB also use a 1.5 mm spacer on the NDS to use up some of that space. Then to get the cranks perfectly centred I used a couple of 0.6mm spacers extra on the DS. YOu should get 2mm more than what have in the photo.


Assuming that the spacing is equal in both sides of the frame (can only see the DS shot).How on earth do you get more mm in the Q-factor on the same axle if the arms are seated correctly on the spindle ? 
Adding spacers to the BB just adjusts the spacing between the bearing faces, and their placement on the bearing seat on the spindle. The OP requires clearance with the frame I believe.

Am I missing something ?

The only way to alter Q-factor would be to lengthen the spindle as far as I can work out.

Fat Biker


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## supermuck (Oct 1, 2015)

Both RF Next SL and SRAM X1 have a Q-factor of 168mm. Q-factor is measured from the outside faces of the crank arms. Difference is the thinkness of the arms itself (RF 15mm / SRAM 13).
I have a 132mm Cannondale Hollowgram spindle laying around. Compared the crankarm/spindle interfaces and they are identical. The current RF spindle is 134mm long so it wouldn't work. There is a german website which sells a Cannondale spindle of 137mm (SPINDLE-SI MTN. 137MM).
But Dikkie is right - it would ruin the chainline which is already not ideal.
My conclusion is that if the Stanton frame had the typical S-bent chain stays the RF crank set would work. I'll still try to get hold of someone from Stanton to ask them how the put the RF crank on their complete bike.
At the moment it looks like I have to go back to the old SRAM crank. Shame.


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## Dikkie (Dec 16, 2005)

You're right, Q-factor can't be altered.
Everything might be solved with recentering, IF there was a bit more clearance on the NDS.
I find it strange that the previous crankset (same Q) was OK.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

Dikkie said:


> You're right, Q-factor can't be altered.
> Everything might be solved with recentering, IF there was a bit more clearance on the NDS.
> I find it strange that the previous crankset (same Q) was OK.


That's right. I'm not suggesting q factor can change. I installed raceface cranks on hope bsa30 and found the cranks to be uncentred due to the different 'standards'. Thought this might be what the OP might be having an issue with once he said he didn't have a problem with his other cranks. In the OP he mentioned that the too small gap was on both sides so my original response was he needed a bigger Q factor.


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## supermuck (Oct 1, 2015)

Both RF Next SL and SRAM X1 have a Q-factor of 168mm. Q-factor is measured from the outside faces of the crank arms. Difference is the thinkness of the arms itself (RF 15mm / SRAM 13).
I have a 132mm Cannondale Hollowgram spindle laying around. Compared the crankarm/spindle interfaces and they are identical. The current RF spindle is 134mm long so it wouldn't work. There is a german website which sells a Cannondale spindle of 137mm (SPINDLE-SI MTN. 137MM).
But Dikkie is right - it would ruin the chainline which is already not ideal.
My conclusion is that if the Stanton frame had the typical S-bent chain stays the RF crank set would work. I'll still try to get hold of someone from Stanton to ask them how the put the RF crank on their complete bike.
At the moment it looks like I have to go back to the old SRAM crank. Shame.


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## supermuck (Oct 1, 2015)

Just had a chat with Dan Stanton. Basically he says they were using the "old" version of the RF Next crank set which has a slightly wider q-factor. He can't tell the version of spindle they were using.


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## mattwright999 (Jun 25, 2014)

Anyone know if the next SL cranks are compatible with boost hubs?


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## supermuck (Oct 1, 2015)

According to SRAM's Boost specs the Q-factor of a crank is unchanged. The chainline is 3mm outward @52mm. Chainline on my Next SL Crank using the RF chainring is 51,5mm.

https://brimages.bikeboardmedia.net.../03/sram-boost-148-chainline-dimension-2j.jpg


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

This might help the boost conversion (with actual geometry numbers):
Boost Chainline and 1x Boost Chainring Selection ? wolftoothcomponents.com

Cheers,
Brendan


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## spruceboy (Feb 18, 2008)

Has anyone had any issues with the alu insert the spindle mates with coming loose from the carbon arms? I noticed my drive side crank had some play, and after the LBS took it apart, they noticed the socket the spindle mates into is a bit loose- that is if you take the drive side crank with the spindle mated to it and flex it, you can feel the alu insert moving with the spindle and not with the crank - just a tiny bit, but it is pretty noticeable when riding the bike. 

My LBS is attempting to warranty them, but I was wondering how common (if at all) this is.


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## Trond (Mar 7, 2004)

spruceboy said:


> Has anyone had any issues with the alu insert the spindle mates with coming loose from the carbon arms? I noticed my drive side crank had some play, and after the LBS took it apart, they noticed the socket the spindle mates into is a bit loose- that is if you take the drive side crank with the spindle mated to it and flex it, you can feel the alu insert moving with the spindle and not with the crank - just a tiny bit, but it is pretty noticeable when riding the bike.
> 
> My LBS is attempting to warranty them, but I was wondering how common (if at all) this is.


I am having the same issue, but on the non-drive side. It's at the dealer now, and I expect it to be warrantied. It's a clear manufacturing defect. Other riders are also reporting the same issues in this thread further up, and I also have a friend who had his drive side develop this issue.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

I haven't had any problems with mine so far, so hopefully I won't. Out of curiosity, are the riders involved either:

- On the heavy side (200# or more)?
- Riding extreme terrain (big jumps, drops and such)?

I'm just trying to determine if this problem is something that I really need to watch for.


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## spruceboy (Feb 18, 2008)

Trond said:


> I am having the same issue, but on the non-drive side. It's at the dealer now, and I expect it to be warrantied. It's a clear manufacturing defect. Other riders are also reporting the same issues in this thread further up, and I also have a friend who had his drive side develop this issue.


Thanks - I thought I read though the thread, but must have missed it. Perhaps I can get raceface to warranty them for a set of their alu cranks, turbines or whatever


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## Trond (Mar 7, 2004)

spruceboy said:


> Thanks - I thought I read though the thread, but must have missed it. Perhaps I can get raceface to warranty them for a set of their alu cranks, turbines or whatever


It's a pretty long thread . Post #410 seems to have the same issues as us.


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## spruceboy (Feb 18, 2008)

Trond said:


> It's a pretty long thread . Post #410 seems to have the same issues as us.


Was it successfully warranted? My LBS has contacted Raceface but hasn't heard back. I am probably just being impatient


----------



## spruceboy (Feb 18, 2008)

JQualey said:


> I got a set on a SC Bronson last summer. Over the last few weeks my bike has been creaking while pedaling. I replaced the bearings in my Links and my D/U bushing. Still creaking. Come to find out, the non-drive side crank arm de-bonded from the metal insert that bolts to the BB. Sent them back last week for warranty.


Did Raceface warranty them? Just wondering, as it sounds like I have the same problem, only on the drive side.


----------



## Trond (Mar 7, 2004)

spruceboy said:


> Was it successfully warranted? My LBS has contacted Raceface but hasn't heard back. I am probably just being impatient


I am still waiting for a response. Will let you know when I get the answer


----------



## JQualey (Aug 27, 2013)

spruceboy said:


> Did Raceface warranty them? Just wondering, as it sounds like I have the same problem, only on the drive side.


Sorry for the delay, They did warranty it. It took about 6 weeks to get the crank arm back from them, but they stood behind their product.


----------



## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

JQualey said:


> Sorry for the delay, They did warranty it. It took about 6 weeks to get the crank arm back from them, but they stood behind their product.


That is good news!
I just found a loose pedal insert in the drive side crank arm on mine.....no fat-biking for me for a while until it's sorted out.


----------



## lycra (Mar 5, 2013)

Yes, I had this happen and the crank arm was replaced under warranty. While riding it feels like your crank is about to fall off. Be sure to remove your self extracting bolt (needs a 16mm hex), the warranty replacement did not include the bolt.



spruceboy said:


> Has anyone had any issues with the alu insert the spindle mates with coming loose from the carbon arms? I noticed my drive side crank had some play, and after the LBS took it apart, they noticed the socket the spindle mates into is a bit loose- that is if you take the drive side crank with the spindle mated to it and flex it, you can feel the alu insert moving with the spindle and not with the crank - just a tiny bit, but it is pretty noticeable when riding the bike.
> 
> My LBS is attempting to warranty them, but I was wondering how common (if at all) this is.


----------



## Trond (Mar 7, 2004)

Trond said:


> I am still waiting for a response. Will let you know when I get the answer


It seems that my issue will be handled under warranty. Waiting for a new crankarm.


----------



## andersonsmog (Oct 21, 2015)

I am looking to put some carbon cranks on my trek fuel ex9, I cannot figure out what bottom bracket I have I am looking at the race face next or sram xx1, can anyone direct me to which version of either crank would fit? Does race face make a bb to fit my frame?


----------



## mhopton (Nov 27, 2005)

andersonsmog said:


> I am looking to put some carbon cranks on my trek fuel ex9, I cannot figure out what bottom bracket I have I am looking at the race face next or sram xx1, can anyone direct me to which version of either crank would fit? Does race face make a bb to fit my frame?


If your frame is aluminum, you have a BB92 pressfit. If carbon, it's a BB95 pressfit. Not sure about the Next SL, but for the XX1 crank, you need a SRAM GXP XX1 crank and BB92 or BB95.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## kdiddy (Jul 14, 2005)

The 2016 Fuel EX, Top Fuel, and Procaliber carbon frames all have BB92 bottom brackets now as well. It looks like Trek is moving away from the BB95 standard on MTB's.


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

Don't you mean "BB95 NON-Standard"? What's the latest BB standard of the month?


----------



## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

Bnystrom said:


> What's the latest BB standard of the month?


Errr that would be T47 . :madman:

Come on guys at least _try_ and keep up LOL :thumbsup:

Fat Biker


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## NT29er (Nov 7, 2015)

HI...need help.
Im trying to install a S works(2015) carbon cranks BB30 on a 73mm shell. The S works crank spindle is 100mm length. Can i use the RF BSA 30? or how long is the RF Cinch crank spindle(length)? thanks for the help....


----------



## Smfuller10 (Aug 28, 2015)

I stripped the pre load screw. Has anyone had this issue and how did they get it out? I want to replace it with something else.


----------



## DudeDowne (Jun 18, 2012)

Smfuller10 said:


> I stripped the pre load screw. Has anyone had this issue and how did they get it out? I want to replace it with something else.


Smfuller10,

I haven't stripped the pre-load screw myself, but have thought it would be easy to do. I would first try a screw extractor that you can buy from your local Home Depot. If that didn't work, I would try inserting a small threaded bolt into the drilled out hole created for the extractor and use some JB weld to hold it in there enough to turn it out.

If this doesn't work , there is always the option to get a new collar.

FWIW...I found that if you have the correct spacers installed, very little torque is required on the pre-load screw.

Good luck!


----------



## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

I bought TI screws off ebay to avoid ruining the preload collar screw, seems to have held up nicely so far. If you have a metal collar I'd do everything to save it and get the screw out, the new collars are apparently plastic and prone to breaking. '


----------



## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

Vegard said:


> If you have a metal collar I'd do everything to save it and get the screw out, the new collars are apparently plastic and prone to breaking. '


Especially as over here in the UK the plastic collar (seems to look plastic on most sites and I have been told by more than one retailer they only do plastic now) is £20/$30 !!! 
Gawd only knows what they'd charge for an alloy one ???

Fat Biker

P.S. If anyone knows where to get the alloy one over here please let me know. It just looks a little nicer and is more befitting of a £300/$500 crankset rather than the piece of crap plastic thanks.


----------



## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

The collar on wiggle is plastic atleast, apparently they don't make the metal one anymore. I got lucky and got one with my SL cranks, my Turbines came with the plastic which I've had to replace once already.


----------



## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

I pressed a torx head in hard and managed to remove it. I replaced it with a Philips head bolt from the local hardware store. Box of them cost a couple of dollars.
Make sure you have enough spacers. Mine kept coming loose because I didn't have enough spacers to ensure it was fully on the collar's thread when cinched. If it's only partially on the thread it will come loose.


----------



## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Its a tiny screw/bolt, tiny fasteners require very little torque. Stop ham fisting the little guy and you won't strip it out you goofs.


----------



## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

Can you run a scorpion bike stand in the Next SL cranks?


----------



## Kaparzo (Dec 21, 2003)

Snozz said:


> Hi, the space does look too big. I'm getting the same experience with my Warden. Could you get the cranks to centre on the frame? I'm having some issues with getting it right. Any advice appreciated.


I'm also having this issue on a 68mm BB shell. I installed everything as per spec, spacers as per instructions and have what seems to be a bigger space than the preload adjuster is supposed to deal with?

Should I add spacers? Is this strange? Feel pretty dumb considering how easy all of the reviews made install sound and the fact that instructions are basically color by number.

Thanks!


----------



## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

you need to use 2.5mm spacer on the DS. Because the hope bsa30 BB is a bit shorter between the bearing faces than the raceface BB also use a 1.5 mm spacer on the NDS to use up some of that space. Othetwise the cinch wont tighten. Then to get the cranks perfectly centred I used a couple of 0.6mm spacers extra on the DS.


----------



## Kaparzo (Dec 21, 2003)

Snozz said:


> you need to use 2.5mm spacer on the DS. Because the hope bsa30 BB is a bit shorter between the bearing faces than the raceface BB also use a 1.5 mm spacer on the NDS to use up some of that space. Othetwise the cinch wont tighten. Then to get the cranks perfectly centred I used a couple of 0.6mm spacers extra on the DS.


Thanks, is this specific to Hope, because I have a RF BB. Is this an issue many people have had with the BSA BB, in terms of needing to use more spacers than RF provides?


----------



## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

The extra thin spacers won't be needed then. Just the other spacers so you only have a couple of mm of space left.


----------



## azfishman (May 7, 2010)

Couple of questions on my set up.....

Just went with some 170 Next SL's. 28T wolftooth elliptical. RWC BSA bottom bracket. I wound up using two spacers, one on each side of the BB.....too tight. I took the non drive side off....way too loose. Spindle spacers? they are smaller for sure. Is this what you use to make up the extra room? When changing direct mount rings....Do you just remove the 8mm or do you have to loosen the little preload ring as well before you remove the drive side assembly?
40 ft/lbs seems like an awful lot.....I've read some people just hand tighten, does that seem to be okay?

Thx!


----------



## spruceboy (Feb 18, 2008)

azfishman said:


> Couple of questions on my set up.....
> 40 ft/lbs seems like an awful lot.....I've read some people just hand tighten, does that seem to be okay?
> Thx!


If you are taking about the 8mm hex, getting that tight is pretty critical - 1 week or so after my cranks were installed by my LBS the none drive side 8mm insert thing came loose and almost immediately the crank arm fell off. Fortunately, i was not very far out and could walk back to civilization. Since no one (i know anyway) carries a hex that large with them, making sure that baby doesn't come loose is important.


----------



## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

8mm Allen wrenches are common on multi-tools these days. I never ride without one.


----------



## azfishman (May 7, 2010)

I'm guessing the preload ring doesn't need to be adjusted if I'm only taking off the ds crank/ring. 

I had a pedal fall off once, so I made sure my multi tool has an 8mm on it.


----------



## spruceboy (Feb 18, 2008)

Bnystrom said:


> 8mm Allen wrenches are common on multi-tools these days. I never ride without one.


Actually, it isn't a 8mm on mine, but a 16mm/ 5/8" . Which is huge, and not someone anyone carries, at least in my neck of the woods.


----------



## GarthMci (Oct 28, 2015)

Hi All, 
Was wondering if anyone could help confirm a BB setup before I lay out some hard earned......

Bike - Yeti SB5c - PF30 73mm Shell
Cranks - NEXT sl

BB options:
Chris King PF30 - This will require the Spacer Kit won't it?

Praxis Works BB's - There are two, anyone know the difference?
1) M30 THRU - BB30/PF30 73mm MTB

2) M30-BB30/PF30 73mm MTB

I'm assuming from the description on the website that I use option 1?
If I did, anyone know if I need the RF Spacers as well??

Have also asked Praxis and RF, but haven't heard back. Just very keen to get my order in for them and get them on my bike ASAP!

Cheers if you can help me out


----------



## padrefan1982 (Mar 2, 2005)

I’m rocky 2 years into my cranks. They’ve been the best I’ve run. However, this past month I’ve run into some ‘play’ in the system I can’t track down. I’ve gotten the 8mm bolt tightened down, but there is play in the system—its really seen between the crank arm itself and the chainring. First, I thought I needed tighten down the retaining ring that holds on the spider/ring, but that’s rock solid.

Today, I saw that I can push the cranks left and right— you can see the crank moving in relation to the cap bolt. Again, I’m SURE that the 8mm is solid, but I’m stumped. Do I need an 18mm allen to adjust that bolt—more to the point, could that where my issue is?, and if so… any good places to track one down?

Thanks guys—pretty sure I shouldn’t be riding on this until I figured it out. I contacted Race Face directly as well, but don’t know how well they deal with talking directly to customer...


----------



## GarthMci (Oct 28, 2015)

padrefan1982 said:


> I'm rocky 2 years into my cranks. They've been the best I've run. However, this past month I've run into some 'play' in the system I can't track down. I've gotten the 8mm bolt tightened down, but there is play in the system-its really seen between the crank arm itself and the chainring. First, I thought I needed tighten down the retaining ring that holds on the spider/ring, but that's rock solid.
> 
> Today, I saw that I can push the cranks left and right- you can see the crank moving in relation to the cap bolt. Again, I'm SURE that the 8mm is solid, but I'm stumped. Do I need an 18mm allen to adjust that bolt-more to the point, could that where my issue is?, and if so&#8230; any good places to track one down?
> 
> Thanks guys-pretty sure I shouldn't be riding on this until I figured it out. I contacted Race Face directly as well, but don't know how well they deal with talking directly to customer...


What about the preload collar on the Non-Drive Side?? Has it backed itself off over the years?

Perhaps re-tighten the collar and the cinch bolt that holds it in place?

Take note I haven't actually got a set yet (see my post above) but have been reading a heap about them!


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

padrefan1982 said:


> I'm rocky 2 years into my cranks. They've been the best I've run. However, this past month I've run into some 'play' in the system I can't track down. I've gotten the 8mm bolt tightened down, but there is play in the system-its really seen between the crank arm itself and the chainring. First, I thought I needed tighten down the retaining ring that holds on the spider/ring, but that's rock solid.
> 
> Today, I saw that I can push the cranks left and right- you can see the crank moving in relation to the cap bolt. Again, I'm SURE that the 8mm is solid, but I'm stumped. Do I need an 18mm allen to adjust that bolt-more to the point, could that where my issue is?, and if so&#8230; any good places to track one down?
> 
> Thanks guys-pretty sure I shouldn't be riding on this until I figured it out. I contacted Race Face directly as well, but don't know how well they deal with talking directly to customer...


Check the pedal on that side the insert that is bonded on the arm can de-bond and create the symptoms are you suggesting.


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## Trond (Mar 7, 2004)

Your arm is most likely debonding. I got a new one on warranty.


----------



## Dikkie (Dec 16, 2005)

Bummer, right side pedal thread insert came loose.
I tried to add a large washer, this way the pedal was tight again but not perpendicular to the chainring.
Bought it 07/2014...


----------



## fathomer (Apr 24, 2012)

Quick question for those running a Hope BB. I've got one to fit with my Next SL's to a Transition Scout frame with 73mm BB shell.

From what I understand, there's a good chance I'm going to need an additional 2.5mm BB spacer to the non DS to make up for the narrower cups, is this right?


----------



## GarthMci (Oct 28, 2015)

fathomer said:


> Quick question for those running a Hope BB. I've got one to fit with my Next SL's to a Transition Scout frame with 73mm BB shell.
> 
> From what I understand, there's a good chance I'm going to need an additional 2.5mm BB spacer to the non DS to make up for the narrower cups, is this right?


You'll need the Raceface spacer kit, which will have all the spacers you need.

http://www.raceface.com/comp/inst/BBchart-x2.pdf


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## fathomer (Apr 24, 2012)

Thanks, I did see that and assume it's the D30331 that'd I'd need? Getting them in the UK might be difficult mind!


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## GarthMci (Oct 28, 2015)

fathomer said:


> Thanks, I did see that and assume it's the D30331 that'd I'd need? Getting them in the UK might be difficult mind!


Nah, easy, I got mine from ChainReaction


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## fathomer (Apr 24, 2012)

GarthMci said:


> Nah, easy, I got mine from ChainReaction


Don't suppose you could post a link as I can't find them :???:


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

fathomer said:


> Don't suppose you could post a link as I can't find them :???:


Yes you use the extra 2.5mm spacer (to close the gap on the collar). I didn't get the RF kit. I got 2 x 0.4mm spacers to centre the cranks to the frame.


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## ungabungas (Mar 3, 2016)

M1_joel said:


> Can you run a scorpion bike stand in the Next SL cranks?


It is not compatible with the included attachments. But i recently created an attachment that will make it compatible with the Next SL cranks. Please let me know if you are interested?


----------



## ungabungas (Mar 3, 2016)

If anyone would like an adapter that will allow you to use a scorpion bike stand with your Next SL crank, please let me know. I designed and created one that will let you use your existing scorpion stand. It will also still allow you to turn the cranks.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

I am installing the cranks in my Nomad. Standard Threaded Race Face BB. It's really hard to press the spindle inside. The plastic middle part of the BB is very tight. After I managed to push it inside the crank won't spin easy at all. Not sure whats going on... Didn't try to install the drive side crank.
Any ideas?
Also, I believe I should not be needing any spacers. Correct?


----------



## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Try removing the plastic sleeve between the cups, or try removing the cups and sleeve from frame and slide everything over the spindle. A fair amount of reports of the plastic sleeve causing drag.


----------



## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

jonshonda said:


> Try removing the plastic sleeve between the cups, or try removing the cups and sleeve from frame and slide everything over the spindle. A fair amount of reports of the plastic sleeve causing drag.


Are you suggesting I can just remove the plastic sleeve? Any downsides from not using it?


----------



## mlx john (Mar 22, 2010)

I ditched mine for the same reason. It's not needed.


----------



## mlx john (Mar 22, 2010)

I used this spacer on the drive side on my 5010. I imagine it's no different on the N3.

Race Face


----------



## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

mlx john said:


> I used this spacer on the drive side on my 5010. I imagine it's no different on the N3.
> 
> Race Face


Was it needed For the chainline or did you use it to cover the space between the crank and the BB? Was the spacer necessary?


----------



## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

mlx john said:


> I ditched mine for the same reason. It's not needed.


Just visited my lbs. The plastic sleeve is a common problem with Santa Cruz bikes for some reason...


----------



## AVLthumper (Jul 14, 2015)

jazzanova said:


> I am installing the cranks in my Nomad. Standard Threaded Race Face BB. It's really hard to press the spindle inside. The plastic middle part of the BB is very tight. After I managed to push it inside the crank won't spin easy at all. Not sure whats going on... Didn't try to install the drive side crank.
> Any ideas?
> Also, I believe I should not be needing any spacers. Correct?


I just installed a set of Next SL cranks on my 2016 Tallboy this evening using the RF BSA30 BB. I just followed the directions and added the one spacer on the DS for the BB. I installed the sleeve first, but the cranks did not spin freely, so I removed it. Pretty simple install. Looking forward to testing it out this weekend.


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## boubla (May 12, 2012)

So after reading everything it sounds like the RF BSA BB bearings are prone to failure and need replacement.. and that using RWC OUTBOARD BOTTOM BRACKETS, ANGULAR CONTACT is probably better (2x price with stainless bearings though)

Just wanted to make sure, if anyone knows - does the RWC OUTBOARD BOTTOM BRACKET w/ANGULAR CONTACT need the spacer kit or anything else to work with the next sl cinch cranks + BSA 73mm ? (first time i do this, site is not 100% clear to me)
thx!


----------



## slackard (Mar 28, 2010)

jazzanova said:


> I am installing the cranks in my Nomad. Standard Threaded Race Face BB. It's really hard to press the spindle inside. The plastic middle part of the BB is very tight. After I managed to push it inside the crank won't spin easy at all. Not sure whats going on... Didn't try to install the drive side crank.
> Any ideas?
> Also, I believe I should not be needing any spacers. Correct?


 I suspect your bottom bracket assembly is too wide for your shell, and youll need additional bb cup spacer(s) to take up the slack.

If the cups aren't properly spaced to match your frame's bb shell, the plastic sleeve will bind and compress inward when the cups are bottomed out. This will ream the end of the cups further into the plastic sleeve than they should be, creating a pressure ridge in the softer plastic sleeve.

This pressure ridge can and will interfere with insertion and rotation of the cranks by creating additional drag on the spindle.

To confirm this is the issue, pull the bottom bracket & assemble the cups, plastic sleeve and spacers outside the bb shell on your frame. orient the spacers the same way they were when you had the bb installed in the frame.

User a caliper to measure the gap between the spacers. This should match the bb shell width on your frame.. e.g. 68mm, 73mm, etc.

If you dont have a caliper, just hold the bottom bracket assembly up to your the bb shell on your frame. This will quickly show you if the assembly is too wide with your current spacer setup. Any side to side play is an indication of this problem.

If the cup spacing is too wide for your frame, that pressure ridge will form when the cups are installed and bottomed out against the bb shell. If this is the case, the last few turns of the bb cup into the shell will also be quite a bit stiffer than the first several turns, as the plastic spacer begins to bind under the added pressure.

Make sure your cups are properly spaced & don't ask how I know all this 

Hope this helps & good luck!


----------



## mountainbiker2 (Nov 2, 2009)

I use one spacer on the drive side for my Bronson.


----------



## slackard (Mar 28, 2010)

boubla said:


> So after reading everything it sounds like the RF BSA BB bearings are prone to failure and need replacement.. and that using RWC OUTBOARD BOTTOM BRACKETS, ANGULAR CONTACT is probably better (2x price with stainless bearings though)
> 
> Just wanted to make sure, if anyone knows - does the RWC OUTBOARD BOTTOM BRACKET w/ANGULAR CONTACT need the spacer kit or anything else to work with the next sl cinch cranks + BSA 73mm ? (first time i do this, site is not 100% clear to me)
> thx!


OOh! Angular Contact!

With a 73mm BSA shell, you'll likely need 1x 2.5mm spacer on the drive side, which is pretty standard. Several spacers look to be included with the RWC BB, and even come in fancy matching colors!

You should be fin.....

EDIT: Perhaps not... on 2nd look,
"the [RWC] cup dimensions match Shimano Hollowtech 2 [and Race Face X-type] mountain cups."

Hollowtech 2 & X-type spindles/cups are all 24mm.

The Next SL has a Race Face Cinch spindle, which is 30mm. It doesnt look like the RWC bottom brackets are Cinch compatible.... Shoot them an email, maybe they have something in the works.


----------



## boubla (May 12, 2012)

thanks, yeah i think i misunderstood their page
its actually the RWC BSA 30 EXTERNAL BOTTOM BRACKET from RWC BSA 30 BOTTOM BRACKET w/ANGULAR CONTACT BEARINGS


----------



## slackard (Mar 28, 2010)

boubla said:


> thanks, yeah i think i misunderstood their page
> its actually the RWC BSA 30 EXTERNAL BOTTOM BRACKET from RWC BSA 30 BOTTOM BRACKET w/ANGULAR CONTACT BEARINGS


ah yup.. Those are the right ones for the cinch spindle. Same deal, 1x 2.5mm spacer on the drive side for your 73mm bb shell, which should be included.

You'll also need the 12 spline BSA30 cup tool. the RWC tools is $50, the raceface tool is half that price.. Just sayin... 
RaceFace BSA30 Bottom Bracket Tool | Race Face


----------



## randan (May 18, 2005)

Finally Chris King is producing a BSA30 bottom bracket:









Source: Santa Cruz celebrates Chris King's 40th anniversary with limited edition 5010 mountain bike - Bikerumor


----------



## boubla (May 12, 2012)

slackard said:


> ah yup.. Those are the right ones for the cinch spindle. Same deal, 1x 2.5mm spacer on the drive side for your 73mm bb shell, which should be included.
> 
> You'll also need the 12 spline BSA30 cup tool. the RWC tools is $50, the raceface tool is half that price.. Just sayin...
> RaceFace BSA30 Bottom Bracket Tool | Race Face


Yeah im going by that rationale.. i could buy 3 BBs ... so im going to go with raceface and like everyone replace bearing if it goes bad

thanks for your help, this is more clear now


----------



## slackard (Mar 28, 2010)

To be clear, both tools have the same spline pattern, and can be used interchangeably.

Hope you didnt base your decision on tool cost.. those RWC cups do look pretty nice, and the race face tool would work.

Have fun!


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

New model

Race Face Announce the Next SL G4 Crankset - Pinkbike


----------



## slackard (Mar 28, 2010)

Alias530 said:


> New model
> 
> Race Face Announce the Next SL G4 Crankset - Pinkbike


D'oh!

I JUST got my next sl a week ago..... I'f i hadnt bought online, i'd return it and get one of these instead.

Anyone need a new/never used 34t nextSL?


----------



## boubla (May 12, 2012)

given the prices i doubt the "old" nextsl will be an issue to resell. was already at 390USD new/300 used. New is much higher priced.
So current purchases of the old next sl arent bad value unless u want the latest stuff. (ie ebay ur current for 350usd or whatever)


----------



## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

Anyone have a source for the spacers required to fit a Hope BB to a 73mm shell?
Looks like I need two 1mm or smaller spacers, can't seem to locate any that small.


----------



## Trond (Mar 7, 2004)

Vegard said:


> Anyone have a source for the spacers required to fit a Hope BB to a 73mm shell?
> Looks like I need two 1mm or smaller spacers, can't seem to locate any that small.


Wheels Manufacturing 1mm Spacers for 30mm Spindles Pack 10 | eBay


----------



## Lornholio (Mar 5, 2013)

Quick question that I don't think has been answered in this thread. I need to take my Next SLs off and back on (taking off an ISCG guide). When I reinstall them do I need to recheck the preload collar or just tighten up the end nut?

I'm asking because stripped the original preload collar screw and replaced it with a slightly sturdier one, tightening it down nice and hard and it hasn't budged. I might have put some threadlock on it too, not sure. Getting the original stripped screw out was a real pain so I'm a little worried of stripping the new one too and having to do that again, so if I can avoid it by not having to touch it that will save some hassle.


----------



## Dikkie (Dec 16, 2005)

You only have to take the right arm of, so don't touch the left side.
Should be ok without touching the collar screw.

I had my Next sl replaced under warranty, the first crankset had a metal collarscrew and preloadring.
I regret that I didn't keep the preload unit, I don't expect the plastic thing to last.


----------



## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

The plastic doesn't last sadly, if I replace my SLs I'm keeping my metal collar! 



Lornholio said:


> Getting the original stripped screw out was a real pain so I'm a little worried of stripping the new one


You can get titanium screws in the correct thread and length, I replaced mine so I wouldn't have to worry about rounding the hex.

X2 Grade 5 Titanium Bolt M3x10mm DIN912 Hex M3 10L Bicycle Bike TI Screw Cycle | eBay


----------



## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Shark said:


> That is good news!
> I just found a loose pedal insert in the drive side crank arm on mine.....no fat-biking for me for a while until it's sorted out.


RF sent a warranty arm for my issue as well.


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Does anyone know the bearing size RaceFace use in the BSA cinch bottom bracket?


----------



## randan (May 18, 2005)

Rick, as far as I know the the Race Face BSA30 bearings measure 30 x 42 x 7 mm and are standard 61806 2RS bearings.


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

randan said:


> Rick, as far as I know the the Race Face BSA30 bearings measure 30 x 42 x 7 mm and are standard 61806 2RS bearings.


Thanks. After my post I did a bit of digging and Race Face list the bearing size on their website. I've just ordered some Enduro bearings for my bottom bracket as its turned to toast after 12 months in UK weather.


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

In regards to the Next SL G4 that's coming out. It claims 16g lighter and a stiffer crank arm. Doesn't sound like a big upgrade for the price differential of last years model. Seems to be better just to buy the old one or am I missing something?


----------



## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

Snozz said:


> you need to use 2.5mm spacer on the DS. Because the hope bsa30 BB is a bit shorter between the bearing faces than the raceface BB also use a 1.5 mm spacer on the NDS to use up some of that space. Othetwise the cinch wont tighten. Then to get the cranks perfectly centred I used a couple of 0.6mm spacers extra on the DS.


Where did you get the 0.6mm spacers? I found some 1mm spacer on ebay, but the 0.6 seems perfect to cover the 1.3mm difference between RF and hope bb

edit: looks this will do the job! Not almost perfect as the 0.6mm though, but I might be too crazy about a 0.something mm

Wheels Manufacturing 0 5mm Spacers for 30mm Spindles Pack 10 | eBay


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## boubla (May 12, 2012)

I also had to use 2 spacers drive side (and 1 non drive side) on my raceface bsa bb with a 73mm bb shell contrarily to raceface's instructions, to achieve proper spacing.
All 3 spacers were the ones provided with the bb (there's 3 spacers total.. phew!).

The bearings are harsh like everyone reported. I saturated all the thing with grease inside and will see how long their survive... ;-)


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

jacksonlui said:


> In regards to the Next SL G4 that's coming out. It claims 16g lighter and a stiffer crank arm. Doesn't sound like a big upgrade for the price differential of last years model. Seems to be better just to buy the old one or am I missing something?


don't see a reason to pay extra for the new one, although I'm looking for some good deal on next sl since the g4 started to show up and I can't find anything really good, I was targeting something in the ~300ish range


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

mfa81 said:


> don't see a reason to pay extra for the new one, although I'm looking for some good deal on next sl since the g4 started to show up and I can't find anything really good, I was targeting something in the ~300ish range


I got 170mm with a ring and BB on eBay from crosslake bikes for $340.
There are some good deals on eBay now...


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## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

The G4's have dropped in price my a lot:

G4 are $408 at Universal Cycles and the older Next SL's are $414. The old ones cost more. Does anyone know why?

I'm still running $100 M8000 XT cranks at 0.5lbs heavier. With all the rock strikes I have on my cranks, I'm afraid to go carbon and worry about them. Currently I just dont care because at $100 they are replaceable. However, it would be nice to shave off 1/2 lb for those long days.


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## mav1c (Aug 13, 2012)

Apologies if this has been covered already.

I recently installed a 2015 Next SL Cinch crankset on my 2013 Intense Carbine SL. included was a RaceFace BB92 bottom bracket. I had the cups professionally pressed into the frame. I followed the installation instructions, but am having a major problem. After every couple miles of riding, the crank arm loosens. I tighten the 8mm bolt, and everything is secure. No play. Spins freely. Ride another mile or 2 and it's loose again. Any ideas why this could happen? A step I missed?


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

mav1c said:


> Apologies if this has been covered already.
> 
> I recently installed a 2015 Next SL Cinch crankset on my 2013 Intense Carbine SL. included was a RaceFace BB92 bottom bracket. I had the cups professionally pressed into the frame. I followed the installation instructions, but am having a major problem. After every couple miles of riding, the crank arm loosens. I tighten the 8mm bolt, and everything is secure. No play. Spins freely. Ride another mile or 2 and it's loose again. Any ideas why this could happen? A step I missed?


Use Loctite 242 (blue) on the threads and make sure that it's torqued to specification. That should be all you need to do.


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## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Crank arm loosening may not have anything to do with BB. You'll need to identify what is loose. If it's just the crank arm you need to make sure the preload adjusters are pushing against the crank arm and the 2mm hex bolt isn't loose. Also that you're 8mm cap on the outside of your crank arm is torqued properly. I think it's 50nm, don't remember. If it develops play , your crank arm didn't go in far enough. Hope that helps.

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## JRockF3 (Sep 27, 2007)

mav1c said:


> Apologies if this has been covered already.
> 
> I recently installed a 2015 Next SL Cinch crankset on my 2013 Intense Carbine SL. included was a RaceFace BB92 bottom bracket. I had the cups professionally pressed into the frame. I followed the installation instructions, but am having a major problem. After every couple miles of riding, the crank arm loosens. I tighten the 8mm bolt, and everything is secure. No play. Spins freely. Ride another mile or 2 and it's loose again. Any ideas why this could happen? A step I missed?


I'm going through the same exact issue with the new Next Sl. I took it apart last night and found out that the cinch for the chainring loosened also. I tightened it back.
I have not ridden it again to see if that made a difference. 
Let me know if you get yours fixed. Pls. Thanks!


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## Bnystrom (Apr 28, 2007)

Use Loctite 242 (or a similar blue formula from another brand) on the bolt and tighten it to the torque specified by Raceface. Let it sit for a few hours or overnight before riding it.


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## mav1c (Aug 13, 2012)

There's a red metal ring/spacer (I don't recall if it came with the BB or the cranks) that goes on the drive side between the sprocket and BB. It's only about 1mm thick. I removed that, and all is good now. Crank arm hasn't loosened after a couple 10 mile rides. I'm guessing it was just enough that the arm wasn't seating completely on the spindle.



JRockF3 said:


> I'm going through the same exact issue with the new Next Sl. I took it apart last night and found out that the cinch for the chainring loosened also. I tightened it back.
> I have not ridden it again to see if that made a difference.
> Let me know if you get yours fixed. Pls. Thanks!


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## teamplayr (Nov 22, 2005)

HELP! I am at my wits end. I have the Next SL on my singlespeed and I cant get them to be quiet. First couple of rides were fine and then it got worse from there. Took everything apart and re-greased all threads and all metal to metal contact points. Found that the cinch ring was loose so I tightened the sh*t out of it. Was fine for one ride then back to creaking. Took back apart to see if cinch ring was loose again but it was still tight. Cleaned everything and re-greased with Phil Wood grease. Noticed that the crank arm dust cap was loose so re-greased those threads and finger tightened it until I could finally find a shop that had 16mm allen wrench (i have since ordered one but it is on backorder). Was good for two rides then back to creaking. The only thing I can come up with is that I cant get the main bolt (10 mm) tight enough to torque spec and it loosens a very minute amount and the creaking starts. I am not even sure how anyone can get that bolt to the specified torque of 425 in-lb or whatever it is. My torque wrench doesnt even go that high and even if it did, I would probably have to use a leverage bar. Not sure if that is what is even causing it. The creaking is driving me insane. BTW-BB is brand new race face threaded BB which if you dont remove the center plastic sleeve, the cranks will not spin due to the sleeve binding when bottom bracket was tightened. BB installed in niner EBB. No, its not the EBB because it was quiet until the raceface cranks were installed. Thanks for any insight anyone may have.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

You need a bigger torque wrench or borrow one. The torque figures on these cranks and others that have a single bolt are crucial.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

425 in lbs is only 35 ft. lbs.


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

get a new torque wrench, most if not all 3/8 wrenches should go way beyond that limit


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## DudeDowne (Jun 18, 2012)

Hey playr,

I was experiencing a very similar sounding issue. For reference I have a 73mm BSA BBm, but I opted to go the RWC/Enduro route vs. the RF. 

At first, after many disassembly/clean, grease, re-assembly tries, I almost just said this is something I am going to have to live with.

What I found was that I was using 1 too many duralin spindle spacers on the NDS. I believe that this was not allowing the DS crank arm to fully mate against the spindle when tightening the 10mm bolt. Since removing one of the spindle spacers I have not had the creak return. I haven't had the pre-load collar or 10mm bolt loosen up since removing the spacer also.


It was really dumb on my part on the initial install, as I didn't want to see any of the silver spindle. Now there is a small silver gap but creak free.

Good luck!


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## teamplayr (Nov 22, 2005)

DudeDowne said:


> Hey playr,
> 
> I was experiencing a very similar sounding issue. For reference I have a 73mm BSA BBm, but I opted to go the RWC/Enduro route vs. the RF.
> 
> ...


Hey DudeD, where do the delrin spacers go? Are you talking about the bearing dust cover on the bottom bracket? Not sure there are any spacers other than spacers used to space the bottom bracket cups. See attached install instructions

http://www.raceface.com/media/B10186-Cinch_System_Installation.pdf

Which torque wrenches go way beyond the limit? Ones made for automobile/motorcycle applications? The exact measurement needed is 37 ft-lb which is 50 Nm. Most bike specific socket wrench style torque wrenches don't go over 20 Nm, which is 15 ft-lb.

Thank you all for your help so far.


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## DudeDowne (Jun 18, 2012)

teamplayr said:


> Hey DudeD, where do the delrin spacers go? Are you talking about the bearing dust cover on the bottom bracket? Not sure there are any spacers other than spacers used to space the bottom bracket cups. See attached install instructions
> 
> https://www.raceface.com/media/B10186-Cinch_System_Installation.pdf
> 
> ...


The RWC BB comes with thin flexible spindle spacers. I put these between the pre-load collar and the BB to take up slack when tightening the collar. See photo.











DudeDowne said:


> Hey playr,
> 
> I was experiencing a very similar sounding issue. For reference I have a 73mm BSA BBm, but I opted to go the RWC/Enduro route vs. the RF.
> 
> ...


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

teamplayr said:


> Hey DudeD, where do the delrin spacers go? Are you talking about the bearing dust cover on the bottom bracket? Not sure there are any spacers other than spacers used to space the bottom bracket cups. See attached install instructions
> 
> http://www.raceface.com/media/B10186-Cinch_System_Installation.pdf
> 
> ...


bike torque wrenches are usually 1/4in and yeah up to 20ish, you need a 3/8in wrench, sears have a very inexpensive beam style troque wrench that I use for this kind of application bb, cassette

http://m.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-in-dr-beam-style-torque-wrench/p-00932999000P


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

teamplayr said:


> HELP! I am at my wits end. I have the Next SL on my singlespeed and I cant get them to be quiet. First couple of rides were fine and then it got worse from there. Took everything apart and re-greased all threads and all metal to metal contact points. Found that the cinch ring was loose so I tightened the sh*t out of it. Was fine for one ride then back to creaking. Took back apart to see if cinch ring was loose again but it was still tight. Cleaned everything and re-greased with Phil Wood grease. Noticed that the crank arm dust cap was loose so re-greased those threads and finger tightened it until I could finally find a shop that had 16mm allen wrench (i have since ordered one but it is on backorder). Was good for two rides then back to creaking. The only thing I can come up with is that I cant get the main bolt (10 mm) tight enough to torque spec and it loosens a very minute amount and the creaking starts. I am not even sure how anyone can get that bolt to the specified torque of 425 in-lb or whatever it is. My torque wrench doesnt even go that high and even if it did, I would probably have to use a leverage bar. Not sure if that is what is even causing it. The creaking is driving me insane. BTW-BB is brand new race face threaded BB which if you dont remove the center plastic sleeve, the cranks will not spin due to the sleeve binding when bottom bracket was tightened. BB installed in niner EBB. No, its not the EBB because it was quiet until the raceface cranks were installed. Thanks for any insight anyone may have.


I had a similar issue with the RF cinch turbines that came on my fat bike, for me it was the craptastic RF bb. After going through weeks of he'll, greasing, lubing, torquing everything, I finally broke down and replace the bb with an RWC and it's been silent since. Never going back the the RF bb, although I did keep the cups and will rebuild with Enduro bearings later.

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## teamplayr (Nov 22, 2005)

Trying to not change the bottom bracket but may have to if I can't figure out. The EBB on my singlespeed is threaded BSA so not sure who makes a bottom bracket that has cups threaded for BSA but has smaller bearing to accept the RaceFace 30mm spindle, other than RF of course. Any ideas?

Going to get a bigger torque wrench like the one from Sears. It's cheap enough so why not.

I think i am going to call RaceFace but I did notice one difference in my install instructions that came with my crank
http://www.raceface.com/media/B10186-Cinch_System_Installation.pdf
Step #5 is not shown on my instructions but is now shown in the pdf online. Are they saying that 16mm cover on non-drive side needs to be torqued down the same amount as the crank bolt? Seems excessive. Will follow up if i can speak with someone at RF.


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## waveslayer (Nov 17, 2014)

teamplayr said:


> Trying to not change the bottom bracket but may have to if I can't figure out. The EBB on my singlespeed is threaded BSA so not sure who makes a bottom bracket that has cups threaded for BSA but has smaller bearing to accept the RaceFace 30mm spindle, other than RF of course. Any ideas?
> 
> Going to get a bigger torque wrench like the one from Sears. It's cheap enough so why not.
> 
> ...


It's the crap BB! Replace it

My wife thinks I only have 3 guns


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## teamplayr (Nov 22, 2005)

waveslayer said:


> It's the crap BB! Replace it
> 
> My wife thinks I only have 3 guns


Which BB would you suggest that works with RF crank axle and threaded BSA? Thanks


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## coolhand80 (Oct 19, 2011)

teamplayr said:


> Which BB would you suggest that works with RF crank axle and threaded BSA? Thanks


RWC BSA 30mm bottom bracket 
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id479.html

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## waveslayer (Nov 17, 2014)

teamplayr said:


> Which BB would you suggest that works with RF crank axle and threaded BSA? Thanks


Enduro, hope, RWC. I'm dealing with mine as we speak... it's crap

My wife thinks I only have 3 guns


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## teamplayr (Nov 22, 2005)

Thanks Guys! Will order one just to be sure and if it is not what is causing the creaking, well at least I get a better BB out of the situation.


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## waveslayer (Nov 17, 2014)

So after some issues with the RF BB I finally got my new cranks to work/fit on my bike. The q factor was too narrow for my Canfield Balance. After some thinking and rigging, I had to order a wider spindle to replace the stock one. 

My question is, now I have a crazy chain line running a 28t absolute black with the SRAM xx1 10x42. It's pretty gnarly chain line for climbing. Can I reverse the chain ring on these cranks so the dish portion of the chain ring is facing the frame, opposite of the normal install? So I will reduce some of the chain line angle? Did that make sense? 

My wife thinks I only have 3 guns


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

waveslayer said:


> So after some issues with the RF BB I finally got my new cranks to work/fit on my bike. The q factor was too narrow for my Canfield Balance. After some thinking and rigging, I had to order a wider spindle to replace the stock one.
> 
> My question is, now I have a crazy chain line running a 28t with the SRAM xx1 10x42. It's pretty gnarly chain line for climbing. Can I reverse the chain ring on these cranks so the dish portion of the chain ring is facing the frame, opposite of the normal install? So I will reduce some of the chain line angle? Did that make sense?
> 
> My wife thinks I only have 3 guns


get a wolftooth or oneup ring, they have a better chainline than RF, can't answer your question though since I never used RF rings, but their chainline isn't great, I believe the other 2 are -2 at 49 vs 51mm


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## manitou2200 (Apr 28, 2006)

waveslayer said:


> So after some issues with the RF BB I finally got my new cranks to work/fit on my bike. The q factor was too narrow for my Canfield Balance. After some thinking and rigging, I had to order a wider spindle to replace the stock one.
> 
> My question is, now I have a crazy chain line running a 28t absolute black with the SRAM xx1 10x42. It's pretty gnarly chain line for climbing. Can I reverse the chain ring on these cranks so the dish portion of the chain ring is facing the frame, opposite of the normal install? So I will reduce some of the chain line angle? Did that make sense?
> 
> My wife thinks I only have 3 guns


Which spindle are you using and way do you have the AB (49mm CL) chainring offset facing? Offset in, teeth closer to frame or out, toward crank arm? Can you adjust the cranks to move the CR towards the NDS any?

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## Leo_camargos (Oct 18, 2013)

I just received my RF Next SL G4 W/ 34t DM Ring. It came with the regular aluminium ring, not the one with the carbon spider that is on the manufacturer´s advertisement. Weight: 443g W/34T ring and crank boots. The finish is sub-par when comparing to SRAM carbon cranks or even the older version of the Next SL IMO.


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## Lornholio (Mar 5, 2013)

I have a Wolftooth chainring on my Next SLs now with an 11-36 cassette. In the 11t cog the chain catches on the 13t very slightly - not enough for the chain to skip but it clicks a few times with each pedal rotation. The limit screws are set correctly, so I think this is because the Wolftooth chainring offsets the chainline 2mm inwards. I'm thinking of trying an extra 1mm or 1.5mm BB spacer alongside the current 2.5mm one. Any reason I shouldn't try this?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Lornholio said:


> The limit screws are set correctly, so I think this is because the Wolftooth chainring offsets the chainline 2mm inwards. I'm thinking of trying an extra 1mm or 1.5mm BB spacer alongside the current 2.5mm one. Any reason I shouldn't try this?


While your assessment of the chain ring offset could be correct, I would try the limit screw to move the derailleur slightly outboard to see if this corrects the issue.


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## Lornholio (Mar 5, 2013)

Cleared2land said:


> While your assessment of the chain ring offset could be correct, I would try the limit screw to move the derailleur slightly outboard to see if this corrects the issue.


Yes, that was my first thought when I noticed the issue, but I've checked it even with the limit screw backed-out all the way and the clicking remains.

It's a very slight clicking, just a little annoying. If I backpedal the cranks by hand and watch the cassette I can see the chain catching on the 13t cog just slightly at 3 or 4 points each rotation. SRAM 11 speed cassettes probably don't have this issue because of the profile of the first two cogs (10 and 11t) but my Shimano 10 speed is 11-13... so the chain does catch on the 13t slightly. Has anyone else seen this happen on a cassette which begins with 11-13t cogs?

I found my pack of cassette spacers now anyway so I can try increasing the driveside spacers a little. My original question remains: could this mess anything up? I currently have one 2.5mm driveside spacer (73mm BB shell width) and with the BB spacers I have I could increase the spacers to 3mm, 3.5mm or 4.5mm so I can experiment. I'll check how the chain shifts in the large cogs of course, and check for any issues while backpedalling in the largest cog. I recall that the 8mm hex-head bolt that secures everything together is pretty long, so shouldn't cause a problem as long as it has maybe 5+ threads fully engaged?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Lornholio said:


> My original question remains: could this mess anything up? I currently have one 2.5mm driveside spacer (73mm BB shell width) and with the BB spacers I have I could increase the spacers to 3mm, 3.5mm or 4.5mm so I can experiment.


I don't see of any reason why you couldn't try this, but my suggestion would be to use the smallest (thinnest) shim that will correct the problem.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Cleared2land said:


> I don't see of any reason why you couldn't try this, but my suggestion would be to use the smallest (thinnest) shim that will correct the problem.


The only down side, if there really is one, is that by moving the chain ring farther outboard, you will place more of a bind on the use of your lower cogs on the cassette when using those. I rarely use my smallest cassette cogs, but I frequently use the largest ones in technical stuff.


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## MTBMILES (Dec 27, 2007)

Keep in mind that the best chain line would be a straight line from your chain ring to the rings you use the most, most people aim for the middle of the cassette.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

My RaceFace BB is toast. Looking to try a Rotor pressfit next. Looking at the following:

Rotor PF46 30mm Steel Bottom Bracket | Chain Reaction Cycles

Rotor PF41 Steel Bottom Bracket | Chain Reaction Cycles

Is it just the plastic inner tube on the more pricey one that is the difference? Anyone tried them out?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^ Toast?

Did you try just applying some fresh grease? It might work wonders.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Cleared2land said:


> ^^^^ Toast?
> 
> Did you try just applying some fresh grease? It might work wonders.


Um, no... tried to pop off the seals, would not budge, will have another go and pop some fresh grease in.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Some suggest removing the seal with a small pick, but I prefer an Exacto knife or razor blade. Gently insert the blade edge between the outer bearing race and seal. Carefully lifting the seal from the inner and outer race.


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## manitou2200 (Apr 28, 2006)

It's usually easier to remove the seal from the crank spindle side use a small pick or a blade and pop it up. You can flatten them out before reinstalling them. 


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## manitou2200 (Apr 28, 2006)

If you need a replacement BB I'd suggest the Wheels Manufacturing BB, either the steel or the ceramic version. 


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## Lornholio (Mar 5, 2013)

My drive side bearing seized last week. I removed the bearing easily with a bearing puller and have a threaded bar + washers to install a new one once it arrives. Definitely a cheaper option.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I'm guessing it seized because it hasn't been serviced regularly?


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Lornholio said:


> I have a Wolftooth chainring on my Next SLs now with an 11-36 cassette. In the 11t cog the chain catches on the 13t very slightly - not enough for the chain to skip but it clicks a few times with each pedal rotation. The limit screws are set correctly, so I think this is because the Wolftooth chainring offsets the chainline 2mm inwards. I'm thinking of trying an extra 1mm or 1.5mm BB spacer alongside the current 2.5mm one. Any reason I shouldn't try this?


You probably have answered your question in the later post referencing the length of the bolt. To me that is the issue. I thought RF cranksets came with multiple narrower spacers just for such purposes? Personally, I have tried it with one RF crankset on my Yelli, probably year ago or more. I ended up Craigslisting the RF because I could not get that bolt to stay tight. If I recall that is one bolt where even the company encourages apes$&$& like torque. But mine kept loosening. Hopefully you will have better results.

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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Cleared2land said:


> Some suggest removing the seal with a small pick, but I prefer an Exacto knife or razor blade. Gently insert the blade edge between the outer bearing race and seal. Carefully lifting the seal from the inner and outer race.





manitou2200 said:


> It's usually easier to remove the seal from the crank spindle side use a small pick or a blade and pop it up. You can flatten them out before reinstalling them





manitou2200 said:


> If you need a replacement BB I'd suggest the Wheels Manufacturing BB, either the steel or the ceramic version.


Thanks for the replies, popped the seals, loaded up with grease but still runs rough. Will look to replace as had it in place for 2 years or so.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Did you clean the bearings before adding grease? If they were rough before servicing? Evidence of water and rust?


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

^what he said above...take the time and inspect and clean the bearings. At very least shot them thoroughly with wd40 while. Bearings are still in cup. Then use a hand held blow dryer to remove moisture--then apply new grease. But if bearings are rough and corroded you may need to soak in solvent or just discard and replace.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I'm a strong proponent of ongoing, preventative bearing maintenance. This means being proactive in maintaining bearings before they become problems. However, in case as illustrated above by cjsb, if they are corroded and rusted, these bearings have exceeded their service life and prolly need replacement. 

Regular servicing will prevent the necessity for ongoing replacement and add add years and miles to your bearings. Some argue replacement because bearings are cheap is fine argument for only willing to spend a few dollars for cheap bearings. Additionally, my experience has shown the inexpensive bearings exhibit a shorter service life and have to be replaced on an increased frequency. I do not compromise on cheap bearings and as such, prefer to maintain them appropriately.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Admittedly I have been a little lapse in checking the BB as often as I should. I wiped cleaned before applying new grease but I think they are worn as light surface rust on inner bearing when the crank spindle sits and once seal popped off was very grimy.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I would look at finding some replacements. To minimize water related issues, I will lightly cover the outside of the bearing seal with a thicker marine type grease to keep water out before BB seal covers the bearing.


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## BykerMike (Aug 3, 2016)

Does anyone else look at the "NEXT" on the side of the crankarms and subconsciously think of the Walmart brand "NEXT" bikes?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^ A kitty and No Photo Found? ^^^^

I've never looked at a Walmart bike, so I guess that I have never make the name association.


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## Flying_Scotsman (Jul 12, 2011)

Hey all, two questions, can some kind sole tell me which spindle length comes as standard with the Next SL G4, I am figuring that it is the RF143 as that doesn't have a part number on the q factor chart? 

Secondly, I am wanting to try and squeeze a 2x setup into my next 29+ build and the compatability chart mentions 54mm as the chainline for the 2x setup... is that measured middle of seat tub to the middle of the two rings, or is that the inner ring?

TIA FS.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Flying_Scotsman said:


> Secondly, I am wanting to try and squeeze a 2x setup into my next 29+ build and the compatability chart mentions 54mm as the chainline for the 2x setup... is that measured middle of seat tub to the middle of the two rings, or is that the inner ring?


From the middle of the seat tube to the mid-point between the rings.


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## Flying_Scotsman (Jul 12, 2011)

J.B. Weld said:


> From the middle of the seat tube to the mid-point between the rings.


Thanks, I will need to wait until I get my wheelset and tyres mounted then get out the measuring tape to see what I need to clear the rubber.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi guys, trying to build my 1st bike, looking at the Raceface Next SL crank set. Its for a boosted 148 x 12 frame, 68/73mm BSA, 30mm spindle.

Can advise me if a there is a specific boosted Next crankset n bb that I should buy, or I should purchase a normal 68/73mm with 30mm spindle Next crankset n bb, and the boost spacing comes from the boost specific chain ring offset like those from Absolute Black etc?

Thanks.


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## kdiddy (Jul 14, 2005)

The standard Crank has a wide chain line that works well for Boost spacing bikes. Trek uses the standard Next SL Crank on their boost bikes.


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## grizzler (Mar 30, 2009)

revver said:


> Hi guys, trying to build my 1st bike, looking at the Raceface Next SL crank set. Its for a boosted 148 x 12 frame, 68/73mm BSA, 30mm spindle.
> 
> Can advise me if a there is a specific boosted Next crankset n bb that I should buy, or I should purchase a normal 68/73mm with 30mm spindle Next crankset n bb, and the boost spacing comes from the boost specific chain ring offset like those from Absolute Black etc?
> 
> Thanks.


I'm running a standard next sl and chainring on my boost frame without any issues.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Thank you for the advises. I'm asking because some of the guys have to use spacers for the chain alignment, and I'm wondering if I should stick with the Next SL crank + XX1cassette + boost chain ring option or go to the pricey Eagle XO1 build.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

revver said:


> Thank you for the advises. I'm asking because some of the guys have to use spacers for the chain alignment, and I'm wondering if I should stick with the Next SL crank + XX1cassette + boost chain ring option or go to the pricey Eagle XO1 build.


Checking for spacer necessity is a quick and easy task when you're doing the crank install.

The choice on the Eagle decision can perhaps only defined by your style, terrain and disposable income.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Cleared2land said:


> Checking for spacer necessity is a quick and easy task when you're doing the crank install.
> 
> The choice on the Eagle decision can perhaps only defined by your style, terrain and disposable income.


OK, thanks. Gotta check if the shop I'm installing have spacers for the Next SL readily available.

Agree, I dont want to lug around a 50T if I'm not using the 42T most of the time unless I go to a bigger chain ring size like 32T in front minimum.


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## Leo_camargos (Oct 18, 2013)

Is the Next SL G4 carbon ring ever get released? I ordered the G4 crankset and it came with the alloy ring, same as the old model, the carbon ring is not even in the RF site anymore!


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Leo_camargos said:


> Is the Next SL G4 carbon ring ever get released? I ordered the G4 crankset and it came with the alloy ring, same as the old model, the carbon ring is not even in the RF site anymore!


I was wondering about that too after my first G4 crankset. With Cinch, I don't really see the point, but it appears this is gone? That's got to be one hell of a challenging interface to try and make work with little weight benefit (the carbon/bonded ring).


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Leo_camargos said:


> Is the Next SL G4 carbon ring ever get released? I ordered the G4 crankset and it came with the alloy ring, same as the old model, the carbon ring is not even in the RF site anymore!


It's probably in bad idea heaven with the fox Ti crown fork


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## Leo_camargos (Oct 18, 2013)

92gli said:


> It's probably in bad idea heaven with the fox Ti crown fork


It may be a bad idea but, when RF advertised it, I bought and paid for it expecting to receive carbon ring. That is very frustrating to pay for one thing and get another, in this case they should warn us before buying it.

Enviado de meu GT-I9300I usando Tapatalk


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I suspect there was some good reason for failing to come through with a product that was being marketed and not delivered. It could have been an inability to deliver the final product, resources, design flaw or any number of valid reasons.


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## ryanxj (Sep 9, 2011)

Anybody else blowing these things up on regular?

I know of several cranks that have had the inserts for the pedals and/or spindle separate from the carbon, and I just noticed mine can be added to that list. 

Now Im strongly hesitant to run another pair....


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

ryanxj said:


> Anybody else blowing these things up on regular?
> 
> I know of several cranks that have had the inserts for the pedals and/or spindle separate from the carbon, and I just noticed mine can be added to that list.
> 
> Now Im strongly hesitant to run another pair....


These cranks are in wide circulation, being speced on almost every high end build, so hard to imagine it's a widespread issue, but should be a warranty issue I'd imagine?

I have some and just ordered some more for my fatbike.

I also have a SRAM XX1 crankset on my AM bike that I have absolutely beat the hell out off since 2013, from full on DH to 50 mile epics with thousands of miles to super-chunk gnar-fests, so I know that carbon cranks can work just fine.


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## turfnsurf (Nov 24, 2007)

ryanxj said:


> Anybody else blowing these things up on regular?
> 
> I know of several cranks that have had the inserts for the pedals and/or spindle separate from the carbon, and I just noticed mine can be added to that list.
> 
> Now Im strongly hesitant to run another pair....


My Next SL Crank broke apart shortly after a pedal impacted a rock during a race. I thought it was the pedal spindle or bearings... until the pedal (still attached to the lower 2" of crank arm) flew off the bike. I considered using a RF SixC crankset (which is their lightest Downhill rated crankarm) but I was put off by Race Face's lack of support on my NextSL crank failure so I'm going back to SRAM's X01 Carbon cranks. From what I can tell they're lighter than RF's SixC crank when you compare weights with DM chainring installed. NextSL is not even All-Mountain or Enduro rated, as per their website: "Built For:	
XC Race/Trail/ Fat Bike"


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## Lornholio (Mar 5, 2013)

Anyone had play develop in the non drive side of a Next SL (or similar Cinch system) crankset?

My Next SLs have been great since buying them in early 2015. I replaced a BB bearing recently, and when reinstalling the cranks I couldn't remove all of the play even with the preload collar tightened a lot. Upon removing the cranks again, I could feel a little play between the axle and non drive side crank arm when holding that unit off the bike. Took it to a local shop and tightened to the recommended 50Nm ...still some play. Tightened to 55Nm ...still some play.

Anything I can try? Is this a potential warranty claim? How many years is the warranty?

Thanks as always - great thread for info on these cranks.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

*Necessity is the mother of invention*

I have had the non-drive side crank loosen from the spindle only once, but it torqued back up (50 Nm) and has not experienced any more issue.

I didn't have a 16 mm hex, and found that a 16 mm is not too common (not common enough when you're ready to go ride and you need a quick fix). I called around and couldn't find one locally available.

Necessity is the mother of invention.

I went to the big box hardware and looked for a 16 mm headed bolt and a few nuts to fit it. This would be my ghetto 16 mm hex that could be used with a torque wrench.

I found a grade 8, 7/16-14 x 1-1/4" bolt. The head of the bolt was 16 mm. Two nuts to fit the bolt, tighten them onto the bolt and I used a deep socket to do the deed.


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## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

Anybody over 200 pounds riding these cranks? If so, how does the stiffness compare to other cranks such as the RF Turbine or Shimano XT? I am apprehensive about buying carbon cranks as a 230# rider, but RF claims that there is no weight limit on these.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

the_joe said:


> Anybody over 200 pounds riding these cranks? If so, how does the stiffness compare to other cranks such as the RF Turbine or Shimano XT? I am apprehensive about buying carbon cranks as a 230# rider, but RF claims that there is no weight limit on these.


When in doubt, go SixC

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Stiffness or strength? For stiffness, they are carbon cranks. Of course they are crazy stiff. They are also strong enough for most AM riding, but for true DH stuff sixC is a better bet. If you think that's the stress you put on stuff, then go there.


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## S.O.B. (Mar 17, 2008)

The SixC was not available when I purchased my NEXT SL crankset(s). But I still would have gone with the SL as I was building a light 29+ SS. While I am not quite 200lbs now, I have been riding these in the mid 190's (without gear...but currently down to 187 if anyone is judging) on my SS on long, tough rides that require a lot of standing while riding over rocky terrain; and a lot of standing and mashing on 3+ mile climbs here in NorCal. They have been trouble free cranks. I replaced my XT's with these and have not regretted the swap. Like any new carbon purchase, I was concerned, maybe even tentative, when I first started using them, but as always, that wore off quickly and now I don't even think about them.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Jayem said:


> Stiffness or strength? For stiffness, they are carbon cranks. Of course they are crazy stiff. They are also strong enough for most AM riding, but for true DH stuff sixC is a better bet. If you think that's the stress you put on stuff, then go there.


Hehe, I'm only 185 and to avoid any doubt I just went SixC on all my bikes...Hightower, Nomad, and Jedi.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

I'm 235 and ride a lot. I have them on my carbon fat bike since June last summer and use my fat bike year round, at least once a week during summer/fall and more in the winter. They replaced RaceFace Turbines and can't tell the difference except for shaving weight.

I liked them so much I wanted a set on my 6Fattie but the LBS/riding buddy says the XO1 carbon cranks are not throw aways and I'm not really having issues with them so I'm holding off for now.

I'm big and sort of aggressive, I like to go fast, hop over stuff and jump stuff, not bike park or X-game stuff but I like to have fun. I have no flex/issues or regrets and don't think you will neither.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Pau11y said:


> Hehe, I'm only 185 and to avoid any doubt I just went SixC on all my bikes...Hightower, Nomad, and Jedi.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


I have Nexts on my XC racing bike and my fatbike. I have XX1s that I bought back in 2013 on my AM bike and I've beat them to hell and back. They aren't quite as stiff as the Next cranks, but even if they broke tomorrow I wouldn't be too upset with all the DH races, trips and abusive riding I've put them through. Anything can break though, back in Arizona it wasn't uncommon to sideswipe a rock and have your derailleur completely gone. Just finding it after that impact sometimes turned out to be futile, as it flung into some rock crevice somewhere. So you need to buy according to where you ride and how you ride. Still, the modern carbon cranks are pretty outstanding IME.


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## Snozz (Jan 2, 2012)

I'm bit over 210lbs and have been running them for a couple of years without issues on my AM bike and trail bike. They've taken a few good knocks and dealt with numerous bad landings in that time too.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Cleared2land said:


> I have had the non-drive side crank loosen from the spindle only once, but it torqued back up (50 Nm) and has not experienced any more issue.
> 
> I didn't have a 16 mm hex, and found that a 16 mm is not too common (not common enough when you're ready to go ride and you need a quick fix). I called around and couldn't find one locally available.
> 
> ...


I just did the same trick to check the drive side cap. Looks like the drive side arm has some wiggle to it. Everything is tightened to spec.
This is after I had a pedal insert come loose, and the same arm was replaced under warranty.

Really not feeling good about these anymore.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Shark said:


> I just did the same trick to check the drive side cap. Looks like the drive side arm has some wiggle to it. Everything is tightened to spec.
> This is after I had a pedal insert come loose, and the same arm was replaced under warranty.
> 
> Really not feeling good about these anymore.


Did you only tighten the 16 mm cap, or the 8 mm spindle bolt under the cap? The 8 mm is what will tighten the crank arm to the spindle.


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

Cleared2land said:


> I have had the non-drive side crank loosen from the spindle only once, but it torqued back up (50 Nm) and has not experienced any more issue.
> 
> I didn't have a 16 mm hex, and found that a 16 mm is not too common (not common enough when you're ready to go ride and you need a quick fix). I called around and couldn't find one locally available.
> 
> ...


5/8"=16mms when it comes to tools.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Cleared2land said:


> Did you only tighten the 16 mm cap, or the 8 mm spindle bolt under the cap? The 8 mm is what will tighten the crank arm to the spindle.


Yes I know that. The 8mm is tight, but the arm still wiggles, that is my problem. The crank insert is loose in the arm.
I've had these cranks for a few years, not new to them.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Shark said:


> Yes I know that. The 8mm is tight, but the arm still wiggles, that is my problem. The crank insert is loose in the arm.
> I've had these cranks for a few years, not new to them.


XTR, only slightly heavier, AL and cheaper on Pinkbike.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

In 2 years and 2 sets of Next SLs, I've had 4 crank arms replaced because of loose pedal inserts. Last one was a G4. I can't figure out how they make any money on these.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

WMBigs said:


> 5/8"=16mms when it comes to tools.


Right. I'm aware of that. The head of the bolt used is a 5/8". If I had a 5/8' Allen wrench/hex, I would have used that.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

TwoTone said:


> XTR, only slightly heavier, AL and cheaper on Pinkbike.


This is on my fatbike.....
Shimano makes no cranks for a wide BB.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Grabbed a video of the issue:


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Have you removed the arm from the spindle to help determine the root of the problem? I would suspect the problem will be revealed.


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## turfnsurf (Nov 24, 2007)

Shark said:


> Grabbed a video of the issue:


That appears to be a different problem. In the video the spindle to crank arm is loose, not the pedal insert.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

To me, that indicates that he has too many spacers on the spindle and as such, the crank arm can't snug down on the spindle. Try removing 2-3mm of spacers.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

The crank spindle interface is loose in the carbon arm.
Yes, obviously not the pedal insert loose, that was the first warranty claim last year. But same idea, only the other end.

There are not too many spacers (almost 3 years now on the bike). The 8mm tightening bolt torques to spec, solid bottom out. The adjuster is then snug finger tight for preload as the manual suggests.

I had it apart, the metal insert is loose in the carbon arm.

Waiting to hear back from shop I purchased at. PITA.


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## coolhand80 (Oct 19, 2011)

Shark said:


> The crank spindle interface is loose in the carbon arm.
> Yes, obviously not the pedal insert loose, that was the first warranty claim last year. But same idea, only the other end.
> 
> There are not too many spacers (almost 3 years now on the bike). The 8mm tightening bolt torques to spec, solid bottom out. The adjuster is then snug finger tight for preload as the manual suggests.
> ...


I had this same problem last year. It's definitely the spindle insert becoming delaminated from the carbon. Took 6 weeks for a replacement. Now on my same crankset the pedal insert is loose. I don't want to deal with this warranty crap again.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

coolhand80 said:


> I had this same problem last year. It's definitely the spindle insert becoming delaminated from the carbon. Took 6 weeks for a replacement. Now on my same crankset the pedal insert is loose. I don't want to deal with this warranty crap again.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


6 weeks is just absurd when they are available everywhere! I'd expect a new crank to be shipped to you within a week!


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

coolhand80 said:


> Took 6 weeks for a replacement.


Are dealing direct with Raceface or going through an LBS or who you bought it through?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

coolhand80 said:


> I had this same problem last year. It's definitely the spindle insert becoming delaminated from the carbon. Took 6 weeks for a replacement. Now on my same crankset the pedal insert is loose. I don't want to deal with this warranty crap again.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Man the more I read the happier I went with out of fashion AL XTR cranks. I know that doesn't help Shark


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## coolhand80 (Oct 19, 2011)

Cleared2land said:


> Are dealing direct with Raceface or going through an LBS or who you bought it through?


Dealing with Jenson. So there was some extra time because of that.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Mine were from outside outfitters (online) , they submitted the warranty claim to RF, who then asked me to take to LBS (awkward - but good shop that I purchased my frame from, so they helped me out).
We'll see what happens this go around. So far outside outfitters has submitted the claim to RF, waiting to hear back.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I have never needed to make a warranty claim with RaceFace, but I have made other component warranty claims. I have found it easier to deal directly with the manufacturer rather than where I purchased with very positive, quick results. This becomes even more important when time is a factor and I’m able to eliminate, rather than depend on a third party to act in an expedited manner. 

I don’t know if my success would apply across the board with all component manufacturers, but I’ve been pleased with skipping the middle-man for many years.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Cleared2land said:


> I have never needed to make a warranty claim with RaceFace, but I have made other component warranty claims. I have found it easier to deal directly with the manufacturer rather than where I purchased with very positive, quick results. This becomes even more important when time is a factor and I'm able to eliminate, rather than depend on a third party to act in an expedited manner.
> 
> I don't know if my success would apply across the board with all component manufacturers, but I've been pleased with skipping the middle-man for many years.


RF won't deal with the end user unfortunately.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Shark said:


> RF won't deal with the end user unfortunately.


Either will Sram. I know I sound like a broken record but it's one thing I like about Shimano- they'll deal with you directly.


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## coolhand80 (Oct 19, 2011)

TwoTone said:


> Either will Sram. I know I sound like a broken record but it's one thing I like about Shimano- they'll deal with you directly.


I'm a Shimano guy too and next build I do I am doing what you said and getting out of fashion XTR cranks 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

coolhand80 said:


> I'm a Shimano guy too and next build I do I am doing what you said and getting out of fashion XTR cranks
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When you do just browse Pinkbike, so many for sale around the $200 mark it's not even funny. It's where I picked mine up new in box. When I did the numbers it's a whooping 90g heavier than SL G4.


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## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

I'm in need of a new bottom bracket. Was thinking about scrapping the pre-load collar and instead go with spacers and a wave washer. Has anyone tried that? 

Cannot understand why someone at Race Face would not take action to address this. It's hard to even find the preload collars in stock because people are constantly replacing them.


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## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

tadmcmichael said:


> I'm in need of a new bottom bracket. Was thinking about scrapping the pre-load collar and instead go with spacers and a wave washer. Has anyone tried that?
> 
> Cannot understand why someone at Race Face would not take action to address this. It's hard to even find the preload collars in stock because people are constantly replacing them.


Went ahead and tried the spacers. Took off the preload collar and stock spacers and added 5mm of washers a wave washer from Wheels MFG. Hopefully I'm done with the plastic pre-load collars for good.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

if it helps: i have used the cannondale lockring on the threaded section and also the preload collar, tightened it to fully NON preloaded, and then used cannondale spacers and wave washer for a while and it works well.


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## danK (Jan 15, 2004)

Travis Bickle said:


> In 2 years and 2 sets of Next SLs, I've had 4 crank arms replaced because of loose pedal inserts. Last one was a G4. I can't figure out how they make any money on these.


This post makes me pause. Building new frame up, and was leaning toward Race Face or Praxis LYFT. I'd like RF for futureproofing, but your comments and a few others have me reevaluating.

I'd be getting them through a work connection and comments about customer service dealing with shops and not customers is a concern. I know Praxis has fantastic customer service.

Is yours an isolated incident in the grand scheme of things? Just thinking aloud.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Others have used them for years with no problems. RF has been good with warranties, but I don't live far from Vancouver, and maybe that helps.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

My second warranty replacement arm is apparently on it's way, shipping today.

At east this time they were Ok with a video of the issue (instead of walk-of-shame into LBS where I didn't buy them in the first place hah). I have to destroy the old arm and send a picture back to verify it's not usable anymore.

Maybe this one will last? *crosses fingers*


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Shark said:


> My second warranty replacement arm is apparently on it's way, shipping today.


Were they willing to offer any comments on the failure(s)?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

How much are you guys paying for these? If you must have light, get some Hollograms on Ebay for about the same price- no inserts.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^ I don't know much about the Hollograms, but don't you need a special tool to install or remove them?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Cleared2land said:


> ^^^^ I don't know much about the Hollograms, but don't you need a special tool to install or remove them?


10mm bolt on non drive crank arm and old style crank remover


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Cleared2land said:


> Were they willing to offer any comments on the failure(s)?


No comment as to the failure. This time they replaced it with the g4. They asked that I destroy the failed arm instead of sending it back like the first time.

Thumbs up to RF and outside outfitters for getting it replaced (took some time, but)


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^ Are you dealing directly with Raceface or is this being facilitated through where purchased?


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Cleared2land said:


> ^^^^ Are you dealing directly with Raceface or is this being facilitated through where purchased?


I had to go through outside outfitters, I never talked to RF at all through the process.


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## Noclutch (Jun 20, 2010)

Well this is a "uh, damn..." dormant thread. And since this is now a refresh, so just how are are all those G4s in particular holding up???

G4s were pretty much the only crank I was considering for a new build, but now I might be reconsidering. My pretty darn light Sram XOs have served me well for 5 years despite being bashed up. So maybe it's time for me to rethink- Turbine or XTR....


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I'll take the bait...

I have a little over 1,800 trail miles on my RF Next SL's. While this is not a high number of miles, it does establish some dependability. 

I have experienced ZERO issues with this crankset. They have experienced their fair share of crank and pedal strikes with a few of them enough to take me down. 

While everyone's experience has not been as favorable as mine, I have nothing but good things to say about these.


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## Ryandurepo (Nov 29, 2012)

2019.8 miles on my RF next SL and love them with the stages arm, never had a problem and im a 200lb rider. those cranks see 1,600+ watts on a weekly basis as well. nothing but great things to say as well


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

I have two sets of Next SLs. I did recently have the pedal insert come out of one. At first, I thought there was a problem with my cleat/shoe/pedal and I kept riding, which destroyed the insert big time and was obvious when I took the boot off. The cranks were on my fat-bike and had no impact damage, not even a scratch. RF was good about warrantying it though. Cranks were almost exactly 1 year old. Bike was used for fat-biking last season (should be incredibly light use comparatively) and commuting in the summer a bit (not consistent, one or two days here and there).

The strange thing is I have a pair of XX1 cranks on my AM bike that I bought around 4 years ago and I have bashed those to hell and back through several DH and enduro races, park days, big descents, and so on. They've definitely hit stuff and the bottom shows it pretty well, but somehow they hold together and keep going. If these just spontaneously exploded on my next ride, I wouldn't be sad, I've definitely gotten more than a fair amount of life out of them.


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

My G4s are holding up well after 3+ months on my RM Slayer.



Noclutch said:


> And since this is now a refresh, so just how are are all those G4s in particular holding up???


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

RF just approved my warranty Claim and sending me a RF Next SL G4.
Should I ask for a Next R instead?
I am only 140lbs...
The warrantied next sl came of my Nomad 3. 
Here is the thread with the issue I had
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...hare_tid=1069111&share_fid=23347&share_type=t


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Is the spindle the same on next sl g4 and next r? 
Can I use next sl spindle with next r? 

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

They both have 30 mm spindles.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Cleared2land said:


> They both have 30 mm spindles.


Thanks. I know. 
Not sure about the connecting to the ctqnk arms though. Are they the same?

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

jazzanova said:


> Thanks. I know.
> Not sure about the connecting to the ctqnk arms though. Are they the same?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


All RF and Cannondale Hollowgram crank spindles use the same interface, and are interchangeable.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

sixc is different. same taper, longer interface. otherwise, yes.



Le Duke said:


> All RF and Cannondale Hollowgram crank spindles use the same interface, and are interchangeable.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Del


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

dRjOn said:


> sixc is different. same taper, longer interface. otherwise, yes.


How about sl g4 and next r?

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

jazzanova said:


> How about sl g4 and next r?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


Same, mine always come back from warranty with the same ol spindle. Next-G4-Next R.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Travis Bickle said:


> Same, mine always come back from warranty with the same ol spindle. Next-G4-Next R.


Do you find the next r to be more durable than sl?

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I've only been on em a couple of months but so far so good.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

My G4 are holding up OK so far.


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## ianick (Jul 10, 2006)

Has anyone used a White Industries BSA 30 bb with a Race Face crank? BSA - White Industries

It's time for a replacement bb and I would rather not buy another RF bb.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

ianick said:


> Has anyone used a White Industries BSA 30 bb with a Race Face crank? BSA - White Industries
> 
> It's time for a replacement bb and I would rather not buy another RF bb.


If you have a long thin punch, you can remove the bearings from the cups. I replaced mine the other day with Enduro bearings. Should be nice and smooth for a while now.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

ianick said:


> It's time for a replacement bb and I would rather not buy another RF bb.


You have other options besides White and RaceFace


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

I have just received replacement crank arms for my older Next SLs.
Funny thing is, RF sent me one newer G4 arm and one older next sl. The design is different and the protective rubber boot yhey sent with it, fits only on the newer g4...
No spindle included...
Little bit strange.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


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## RichDoyle (Apr 29, 2007)

Anyone know of a crank puller tool that works for Next SL’s? I’ve got all the hardware off but the cranks aren’t coming off the spline.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

You don't need a crank puller for the Next SL's. At least for mine I don't.

8mm hex wrench to remove drive-side bolt from crank spindle and use rubber mallet to gently tap crank with chain ring off spindle.

16mm hex wrench to remove non-drive side crank arm from spindle and use rubber mallet to gently tap crank arm off spindle.


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## Uly (Aug 18, 2009)

FYI, I recently had a warranty issue with my OEM RF Next SL where the pedal insert broke loose on the drive side crank arm. RF, through the LBS I bought the bike at, sent me a pair of the Next R as a replacement. The Next SL protective boots fit the Next R.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Uly said:


> FYI, I recently had a warranty issue with my OEM RF Next SL where the pedal insert broke loose on the drive side crank arm. RF, through the LBS I bought the bike at, sent me a pair of the Next R as a replacement. The Next SL protective boots fit the Next R.


That's technically a downgrade, did they throw anything else in?


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Not a downgrade if they don't break. I've heard that the pedal insert in the Next R is more reliable.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Travis Bickle said:


> Not a downgrade if they don't break. I've heard that the pedal insert in the Next R is more reliable.


Even if that is true, if you pay for A and it's replaced by B which costs less then your getting screwed.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I checked Universal and World Wide, and both state the MSRP is the the same. Next R is heavier and I can see this being an issue. They need to fix the insert problem.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

I actually asked competitve cyc. if they could send me the Rs instead of G4s.
I wanted a stronger cranks knowing the G4s didn't fix the problem the older SL had.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


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## ctguru (Dec 31, 2008)

Does anyone have the technical drawing for the gen4 Next SL cranks? Building a custom titanium frame and I need the crank arm dimensions etc.

Haven't heard back from Race face as yet

Example, see picture below:


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## Dikkie (Dec 16, 2005)

There are fabrication flaws. The right pedal insert came loose from the last warrantied crankset. I did about 5 rides on the bike with the new cranks. Sadly, I didn't ride much during the last year with that bike, so the warranty period is over.
Next SL is a well chosen name, one always needs a 'next' one!
Not for me, I'll look for something else.


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## Ruckus99ss (Aug 31, 2014)

Having issues on my single speed. I have rf134 spindle and I feel like moving to a rf143 I will have enough clearance. The bike shop I brought it to said it wouldn't make a diff it still wouldn't fit. Thoughts?

Below is 2 driveside spacer and one non drive


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## B R H (Jan 13, 2004)

Are your cranks centered in the BB shell? If your frame is a normal symmetric design, your crank arms should have equal spacing on the left and right side. You may need to move spacers from the left to the right side and then check your chain line last.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

B R H said:


> Are your cranks centered in the BB shell?


I think the photo demonstrates that the cranks are centered, The exception is whatever is tie wrapped through the drive-side pedal insert.

What is that?


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## B R H (Jan 13, 2004)

I can't tell from the photo if the cranks are centered in the BB shell, but if they are, and if the stays are symmetrical, the space between the arms and the stays should be equal (also assuming the BB shell is centered of course).

Looks like a couple of washers to me and plenty of clearance IMO.


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## Teton29er (Jul 31, 2011)

My Next SL on Farley fatbike is under warranty for coming loose at the spindle. Not off to a good start, as they sat on the video for a week and now demand the arm be sent in. Guess they don't trust me. And the feeling is mutual.

Since this is my primary summer bike, I'm already losing ride time.
Seems like a common problem, so I'm looking for another high end, light Crankset for my bike. Any suggestions?


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Teton29er said:


> My Next SL on Farley fatbike is under warranty for coming loose at the spindle. Not off to a good start, as they sat on the video for a week and now demand the arm be sent in. Guess they don't trust me. And the feeling is mutual.
> 
> Since this is my primary summer bike, I'm already loosing ride time.
> Seems like a common problem, so I'm looking for another high end, light Crankset for my bike. Any suggestions?


You can find Sram carbon 30mm fatbike cranks cheap if you look around( or have your shop look)
If you only sent back the bad crank arm and still have the spindle...pick up some RF Turbine Arms and use the arms until RF solves the warranty.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Or....plan B.2354
If you still have the RF spindle....grab some Cannondale Hollowgram cranks that are cheap on Ebay.
You may...or may not...have to get a little creative with spacers....but you end up with light, solid cranks.( but you will need a new chainring)


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

the mayor said:


> You can find Sram carbon 30mm fatbike cranks cheap if you look around( or have your shop look)
> If you only sent back the bad crank arm and still have the spindle...pick up some RF Turbine Arms and use the arms until RF solves the warranty.


SRAM carbon cranks do not suffer the crazy crackey fate of RF, because they use a metal skeleton the length of the entire crank that the pedals and spindle thread into. They've changed a bit with the latest version, the X01 has a foam filled core and was the previous XX1, the new XX1 has a hollow core, saves a bit of weight. I've slammed these things to hell and back and they are not the less than one season fragile sticks that Next SL are.

If you are 30mm, you can use a RF spindle on the XX1 or X01 cranks. That means you can buy the normal-bike version of the XX1 cranks and just install the spindle. It's a little bit of a chore to press out the narrow spindle, but I've done it a few times now. Everywhere I looked the XX1 fat cranks were around $450 or more, but I could get the normal versions for close to $200, then I found a 190 RF spindle (RF sells them) and I was good to go. Did that again with a set of XX1 to replace my cracked SLs on my XC bike, it uses BB92 and had a different width than what I ordered, and what I ordered was the cheapest 30mm XX1 I could find. Then I pressed out the spindle and reinstalled it and was good to go.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Just to add to Jayem's post....that works on older SRAM carbon cranks. The newest versions have a bonded non driveside spindle...and aren't removable


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

the mayor said:


> Just to add to Jayem's post....that works on older SRAM carbon cranks. The newest versions have a bonded non driveside spindle...and aren't removable


You sure about that? This is the one I just ordered a few weeks ago, Eagle, non-boost, non-dub. https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/xx1-eagle-crankset I'm using it as 11spd, which it works fine at.

The spindle isn't the easiest thing to remove, but definitely possible. Not bonded for sure. If this is the case, is there a new part-number or a way to tell?


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Jayem said:


> You sure about that? This is the one I just ordered a few weeks ago, Eagle, non-boost, non-dub. https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/xx1-eagle-crankset I'm using it as 11spd, which it works fine at.
> 
> The spindle isn't the easiest thing to remove, but definitely possible. Not bonded for sure. If this is the case, is there a new part-number or a way to tell?


The new DUmB and PF30 cranks that I have have no bolt and are bonded.
But both have the RF style splines on the drive side


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

the mayor said:


> The new DUmB and PF30 cranks that I have have no bolt and are bonded.
> But both have the RF style splines on the drive side


I suspected some sort of lizardness was going on with with the new DUB/Boost cranks. That blows.


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## Teton29er (Jul 31, 2011)

Thanks for the ideas guys! While my warranty is being serviced I opted for a set of Turbines. I'll probably put the Next's back on and keep the turbines for backup for the next warranty claim if needed. I'm getting too old to miss any ride time...


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Teton29er said:


> Thanks for the ideas guys! While my warranty is being serviced I opted for a set of Turbines. I'll probably put the Next's back on and keep the turbines for backup for the next warranty claim if needed. I'm getting too old to miss any ride time...


Smart man!


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## Teton29er (Jul 31, 2011)

Followup: No problems with my warranty replacements. They sent the latest Next R's. Took about a month. My local bike shop handled all this at no charge which made it really easy for me. Yet another reason to support your local LBS!


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## dmar123 (Mar 30, 2009)

delete


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