# Handle bars for tall person on a 26 bike



## crud99 (Mar 19, 2015)

I just started mountain biking again last year and have GT Richcet 26 from the 90's. I am 6 ' 1", 215. I mostly just do trail riding at local parks.

I am just getting up to speed with all of changes in bikes parts, since I bought my bike. So I want to start upgrading my bike. I am tall but I cannot see myself getting 29 bike, since they are expensive and heavier. I am not the strongest so pushing my bike steep hills is not easy. So I would like to keep it on the lighter side.

I was thinking about upgrading my handlebars first. Right now they are 20.5" / 55 cm wide. Last year I felt it was hard at first to keep riding in a very straight line. I was weaving back and forth. I have read that the longer handle bars now have more control? Is that true? 

Also I didn't like being bent so far over and having to crank my neck up. I'm in my 40's now and my back/neck were sore. So I would like sit a bit more upright. Not like a granny bike,but just so it's easier to see and my back won't be sore. I was trying to research riser bar handlebars. Would that do what I want? Or are they for people with a short reach? I have a long reach but I just want to be more upright.
So if people have some suggestions for lengths,and rise that would be awesome!! Then when I go to the bike store I'll have a better idea of what I am talking about.

Thanks!!!


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

It seems to me that the problem of handlebar height can't be fully appreciated by people with normal length legs. It doesn't seem to matter how long the top tube or seat tube are,, at some point they are all too short. I'm on an XXL with about 10" of seat post visible. Nobody seems to make a tall enough steerer or heat tube to accommodate my 39" inseam. 

I've resorted to a stem riser from Delta. Some people like to project all sorts of wild images of epic failings using this product but unlike some stems I've used, the riser has never loosened up on me. It's worth the $25 to try it at least. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bttocs (Jun 21, 2014)

These days people have figured out that wider bars, shorter stems are much better for trail riding. If XC speed is your thing, then your setup is not bad. You want to get a bar about 750-800mm wide, probably 750 ish for your height. If you want to be more upright get a bar with some rise. I ride a 780mm bar with 3" rise. That is about the max rise you can find. The final part is a short stem, around 50mm +/-. The wide bar and short stem really improve the steering on most bikes. Also get a stem with some rise angle, I have a 40mm with a 15 degree rise angle. I have long legs and with this setup, my bars are 1" below my seat height, which works well.


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## crud99 (Mar 19, 2015)

Bttocs said:


> These days people have figured out that wider bars, shorter stems are much better for trail riding. If XC speed is your thing, then your setup is not bad. You want to get a bar about 750-800mm wide, probably 750 ish for your height. If you want to be more upright get a bar with some rise. I ride a 780mm bar with 3" rise. That is about the max rise you can find. The final part is a short stem, around 50mm +/-. The wide bar and short stem really improve the steering on most bikes. Also get a stem with some rise angle, I have a 40mm with a 15 degree rise angle. I have long legs and with this setup, my bars are 1" below my seat height, which works well.


not sure if this is correct place for this question but I juat had an idea.
I've been contemplating different wheel sizes also. The 29 I think might be too heavy for me to push.

Is it possible to put 27.5 tires on my GT frame?
It a large frame an fits my body


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

crud99 said:


> not sure if this is correct place for this question but I juat had an idea.
> I've been contemplating different wheel sizes also. The 29 I think might be too heavy for me to push.
> 
> Is it possible to put 27.5 tires on my GT frame?
> It a large frame an fits my body


A few bikes can work with one size up or down on the wheel front, but most can't. Their geometry is designed around the wheel size. Just work with what you have and as long as it gets you riding it's fine. You would have no problem riding 29er wheels - don't worry about that.


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## Wiscobiker14 (Jan 5, 2015)

TooTallUK said:


> A few bikes can work with one size up or down on the wheel front, but most can't. Their geometry is designed around the wheel size. Just work with what you have and as long as it gets you riding it's fine. You would have no problem riding 29er wheels - don't worry about that.





Bttocs said:


> These days people have figured out that wider bars, shorter stems are much better for trail riding. If XC speed is your thing, then your setup is not bad. You want to get a bar about 750-800mm wide, probably 750 ish for your height. If you want to be more upright get a bar with some rise. I ride a 780mm bar with 3" rise. That is about the max rise you can find. The final part is a short stem, around 50mm +/-. The wide bar and short stem really improve the steering on most bikes. Also get a stem with some rise angle, I have a 40mm with a 15 degree rise angle. I have long legs and with this setup, my bars are 1" below my seat height, which works well.


Both good suggestions. Double vote on the short stem wide bars definitely push ya upright a bit. Thats how i ride but a little smaller as im not that tall and have a shorter reach. I ride 3" rise and 70mm stem with 15 rise and 730mm bars. 
Never had to use one and dont know anything other than ive seen em but a riser would work as mentioned above. Its an option. And he is right 25 to find a good or bad fit isnt that much of a price to pay. Especially if its causing you pain.


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## bigflamingtaco (Oct 26, 2013)

Have you considered picking up a used bike with a threadless headset and purchasing a new fork so you can take advantage of the extra stem length they come with? As long as you're not bombing DH trails, you can throw spacers on there to your heart's content. Wouldn't be the first bike with an unnaturally high number of spacers under the stem.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

A wider bar with a shorter stem will allow you to bring your center of mass back a litle bit allowing you a bit more control. I prefer the wider handlebar to help open up my shoulders and back so they don't hurt as much. Based on the age, I'll assume you're bike uses a threaded fork, so not much chance in being able to change out to a shorter stem. Also, going to a wider fork or one with more rise may cause problems with not enough cable length. If you have a lot of cable, I'd check out something similar to these. 4" of rise and extra width. If you're bike uses a 1 1/8" headset, you could also upgrade your fork, which will open up a world of opportunities.
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0030KS5...TF8&colid=1HRG8L5U4UZ84&coliid=I1U9BODNBV4LXY

And don't be afraid of 29ers. The weight penalty is maybe 1/2lb (probably less) for a comparable speced XL size bike. Not enough to worry about.


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## crud99 (Mar 19, 2015)

watts888 said:


> A wider bar with a shorter stem will allow you to bring your center of mass back a litle bit allowing you a bit more control. I prefer the wider handlebar to help open up my shoulders and back so they don't hurt as much. Based on the age, I'll assume you're bike uses a threaded fork, so not much chance in being able to change out to a shorter stem. Also, going to a wider fork or one with more rise may cause problems with not enough cable length. If you have a lot of cable, I'd check out something similar to these. 4" of rise and extra width. If you're bike uses a 1 1/8" headset, you could also upgrade your fork, which will open up a world of opportunities.
> http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0030KS5...TF8&colid=1HRG8L5U4UZ84&coliid=I1U9BODNBV4LXY
> 
> And don't be afraid of 29ers. The weight penalty is maybe 1/2lb (probably less) for a comparable speced XL size bike. Not enough to worry about.


Here is a link to my bike specs

1998 GT Ricochet - BikePedia

How hard is it it put new handle bars/riser on by myself?

I am also wondering how many upgrades I might need might be more expensive than buying a new 29er or 27.5


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

If you have patience, ask questions, and have the right tools (metric hex keys), easy.

You can buy a new 29er for about $500 that is somewhat comparable (advancement in technology catching up to the old deore LX stuff). If everything on your bike works well, I'd ride it the way it is with a few minor changes. If the fork is toast, that's when you have to ask yourself if it's worth an upgrade. With those brakes, you're limited to low end forks that have brake posts. Not bad; comparable to or slightly better than the judy when it first came out, which isn't saying a whole lot. Two cheap options are:
Suntour XCM hydraulic lockout
SR Suntour XCM HLO 26" 100mm Suspsension Fork 1 1 8" MTB Bike Disc Rim Brake New | eBay
Rockshox XC28 TK
RockShox XC28 Magtk Coil 100mm 26" 9QR Black Turnkey XC Straight 1 1 8" MTB | eBay
Either of these will work for XC singletrack use. Not advised for highly technical stuff or jumps.

If everything else on the bike is fine, and you really want to upgrade your bar, I'd go for this guy. However, you'll need a new stem too. Your bike probably has the 25.4mm stem clamp and you can swap over to a multitude of cheap $10 riser bars available on amazon. If you go with this bar, due to the width, I'd try the shorter stem first and see how you like it. Swapping stems is really easy, it just takes a little time to get the handlebar rotation where you like it. Every stem length, angle, and bar rotation will have a different feel. Adjust it, go for a block ride, adjust it some more.
Amazon.com : Control Tech 4X MTB Handlebar, 750mm, Sand Black : Bike Handlebars : Sports & Outdoors
http://smile.amazon.com/ORBEA-Threa...n&ie=UTF8&qid=1427162232&sr=1-3&keywords=31.8
Amazon.com : Cycling Mountain Bike Bicycle Aluminum Alloy 45mm Handlebar Stem : Sports & Outdoors


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Added benefit of a new fork, as mentioned above, full length steer tube. Don't cut it, and you can have the bars all the way at the top. This is what I did. I have about 4" of spacers between my stem and frame. It'll work fine with steel steer tubes, just not carbon fiber. One of those instances where cheaper is stronger.


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## crud99 (Mar 19, 2015)

watts888 said:


> If you have patience, ask questions, and have the right tools (metric hex keys), easy.
> 
> You can buy a new 29er for about $500 that is somewhat comparable (advancement in technology catching up to the old deore LX stuff). If everything on your bike works well, I'd ride it the way it is with a few minor changes. If the fork is toast, that's when you have to ask yourself if it's worth an upgrade. With those brakes, you're limited to low end forks that have brake posts. Not bad; comparable to or slightly better than the judy when it first came out, which isn't saying a whole lot. Two cheap options are:
> Suntour XCM hydraulic lockout
> ...


If did want to upgrade my brakes and get a better fork,how much would that all cost??? BTW Thanks for all of the great responses


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Not counting labor and assuming you do a basic tune-up. I've also included costs for some other basic parts that may need replaced.
$80 Fork - Suntour XCM ($55 for the Nashbar rigid fork)
$25 Handlebar - 750mm wide off amazon/online bike store ($10 for the XLC 650mm high rise handlebar, but I wouldn't trust it for trail riding)
$10 Stem - 45mm to 80mm off amazon/online bike store ($0 if you go with the narrower high rise handlebar)
$10 Basic Bell brand cable set off amazon (might be worth the extra money to have your local bike shop provide the correct derailure SIS cable housings and crimp the ends)
$30 Acera front & rear V-brake calipers off amazon
$15 - 8-speed chain off amazon - if the chain is stretched or rusted
$20 - 11-32 Shimano 8-speed cassette off amazon - if the existing chain is stretched and you replace the chain. If the chain isn't streched, you could leave the same cassette. 

The biggest question is if your fork is still good, or if you want to go rigid. I've heard stories of people taking their old fork apart and filling it with a screen door spring and plastic bushings. Or you can get a rigid mountain bike fork for $50 off Nashbar. It's a good steel fork, but it's rigid. May want a larger tire up front, 2.2". Going on the cheap, I'd sand the wheels rims and brake pads with 800 grit sand paper, re-adjust them. The stock brakes shouldn't be that bad. worst case I've seen was needing the plastic sleeve that goes inside the metal brake cable noodle (I actually think that is the correct name). should only cost about $2 at your bike store, if they'll order it. I would replace the cables & housing all around if they're getting bad. Just to get them going, a simple coating of WD-40 will work and stay away from dirt. The $10 bell cable set has acceptable cables, but the housing isn't the best (only good for brakes). Could spend the extra money on a Jagwire cable set for the shifters.


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## crud99 (Mar 19, 2015)

There is no way to add a disc brakes to my bike??
Is there any conversion kits or anything else you can do?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

There is a conversion kit for the frame that clamps on (I wouldn't trust it though), but for the price, better to get a new frame, and once you do that, just get a new bike. Also will need new wheels (or just hubs if you can lace them yourself). You can get a disc front wheel for about $70 new, or much less if you make a bunch of biking friends that prefer beer than spare parts in their garage.

Personally, unless this bike's mechanical parts are really torn up, I'd go for the rigid fork or XCM, put on a bunch of spacers, and get a wider bar. I've come across some older 25.4mm diameter wide bars out there that are good quality for a low price. If it's going to take much more than this, time to look for a new bike. Technology has come a long way in 20 years.


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

Ride what you've got until you get more into it / you save some money / it starts to seriously get worn out or fall apart. If you still enjoy it and want to ride more, a new/used bike that is more modern will serve you well. Hydraulic brakes are great, on a bike designed for them.


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

at 6 ' 1", 215, you're neither particularly tall, nor all that big. Ride what you've got and save up for a new bike.


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