# 1 1/8" threaded - convert to 1 1/8" threadless?



## deadmanschest (Apr 15, 2007)

Hi all - thought VRC was good place to ask...

I have an early '90s (1992?) Mongoose IBOC with 11/8 threaded headset and the original Tange black unicrown fork. I was thinking of converting to threadless headset to expand the array of available stem and fork options.

I would think that all that would be needed was to remove the current headset and press in a new one to accept a newer threadless steerer?

Thoughts?

Thanks

dmc


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## pinguwin (Aug 20, 2004)

That is what you need to do. But make sure you have enough of an unthreaded length on the steerer if you're using the same fork (actually, even if changing forks, this would still be the case).


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

you could just change out the top cup if you wanted to do the least amount possible. There are also adapter quills that go into a threaded set up and allow a threadless stem.


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## pinguwin (Aug 20, 2004)

Good idea FB. Most quill adapters I've seen have been 1" threaded -> 1 1/8 threadless, but this one has a sleeve to go either size. Haven't used it, so can't vouch for it, just providing a reference.

http://www.bikeparts.com/productinfo/Threadless-to-quill-stem-adapter-74706-44134.html


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## deadmanschest (Apr 15, 2007)

*Thanks for the info..*



pinguwin said:


> Good idea FB. Most quill adapters I've seen have been 1" threaded -> 1 1/8 threadless, but this one has a sleeve to go either size. Haven't used it, so can't vouch for it, just providing a reference.
> 
> http://www.bikeparts.com/productinfo/Threadless-to-quill-stem-adapter-74706-44134.html


Hi pinguwin & Fillet-brazed - good to know. I was unaware of the adapters and certainly that one could just change out the top cup et al.

Excuse my ignorance, but does the ability to just change out the top cup mean that you can use a threaded 1/18" steerer, assuming you could ever get enough length, in a threadless setup? Never thought about it, but will tonite.

Thanks as always, great source of info and inspiration on this forum.

Cheers

dmc

PS - I see that pinguwin actually said "make sure that you have *enough unthreaded* length" in the steerer tube, and I assume that this means that you must be able to cut the threaded steerer off and have all the 'meat' left on the tube?

Thanks

dmc


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## logbiter (Dec 30, 2003)

<edited for="" lack="" reading="" comprehension="" of="" original="" post=""><edited for="" lack="" reading="" comprehension="" of="" original="" post="">edited for lack of reading comprension of original post:

</edited> You'll need a fork w/ a threadless steerer or a threaded one long enough that you can cut off the threads & have enough room for the stack height of your stem + 5-20mm spacers (just in case you want to tune the height of the stem, and different stems can have very different stack heights:madman.

if you change the headset top cup, you'll be going with a threadless top cup.

Probably the easiest thing is to do is get an adapter (~$20 at a LBS). These are kinda heavy and can look funky, if you care about such things. But, then you can use your current fork.

Also, if going with a new fork- try to get one with similar axle-crown length if you want to preserve the current handling.
</edited>


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

deadmanschest said:


> Hi pinguwin & Fillet-brazed - good to know. I was unaware of the adapters and certainly that one could just change out the top cup et al.
> 
> Excuse my ignorance, but does the ability to just change out the top cup mean that you can use a threaded 1/18" steerer, assuming you could ever get enough length, in a threadless setup? Never thought about it, but will tonite.
> 
> ...


Is your only purpose for this to broaden your choice of stems? If so, just go with the adapter. It will be much easier and cheaper.

Im not sure what pinguwin was saying about the threaded steerer tube. There is no way youre going to be able to use your current steerer tube with a threadless top cup. You could however (I dont even know what fork you have) get another threaded fork that has a longer steerer tube and has the threads higher up on the tube that could be cut off.

Hope that makes sense.


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## deadmanschest (Apr 15, 2007)

*Had a fork steerer short by just that much...*



logbiter said:


> You'll need a fork w/ a threadless steerer or a threaded one long enough that you can cut off the threads & have enough room for the stack height of your stem + 5-20mm spacers (just in case you want to tune the height of the stem, and different stems can have very different stack heights:madman. ....


Thanks logbiter - I like the current Tange cro-mo fork, but was thinking of going to a squishy fork. I just cleaned and tuned a salvaged Specialized Future Shock (Mag20 clone) in 11/8" threaded, and eyeballed to the right length, but when I tried to install it was just a hair (maybe 1/4") short for the threaded top cap.. I think that threadless will give a little more leeway in 'sourcing' (stupid word) a suitable 'gently used' fork for the IBOC.

That started me thinking of the easiest way to upgrade (or downgrade) the IBOC, with threaded steerers, stems et al in 11/8" not that common, it seems that to convert to 11/8" threadless headset (top at least) the way to go..

I have some stems around, and a Marzocchi fork that should fit, if I go with the threadless set up...so may just give it a shot, always revert to the Tange if need be..

Thanks all

dmc


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## pinguwin (Aug 20, 2004)

Fillet-brazed said:


> Im not sure what pinguwin was saying


That's pretty much what I meant but perhaps didn't say clearly. I think I know one person who managed to reuse the fork but it was an oddball setup to start with. More I think about it, go with the adapter unless a reason to do otherwise.

Pinguwin


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## deadmanschest (Apr 15, 2007)

*Nope, everyone was clear....hehe..*



fillet-brazed said:


> Im not sure what pinguwin was saying....fillet-brazed





pinguwin said:


> That's pretty much what I meant but perhaps didn't say clearly.
> Pinguwin


Thanks guys! I feel bad, because when I first posted threads, I would explain in detail what I was hoping to accomplish, instead of just asking if I could do "X".... So I now try to just ask if its feasible to do..."X"

Objectives - perhaps upgrade the IBOC to a newer fork, threadless steerer, thus a new headset, new fork and stem.

Reason - current setup is fine, but would like to go squishy on the IBOC and 1 1/8" threaded is limiting, especially in the 'used fork' world as the threaded steerer length is so critical (unless I find one from a seven foot guy with a really looooong steerer tube..)

What I have learned:

I could convert to threadless by installing just the new top cup and race or with a complete new unit.

I could find a surplus fork in either desired or longer threadless steerer or really long threaded if the threads could be cut off to the desired steerer height.

I could keep the current threaded Tange fork and 'upgrade' to a threadless stem config by going to an adapter (kludgy) that clamps/ inserts the threaded steerer and offers a threadless stem clamp config. Clear benefit is the bearing load is set and one can change stems or bars without upsetting the apple cart.

New Question - perhaps I can throw this in....The reason I started this line of thought was that I had surplus Mag20-ish shock fork that was 1 1/8" threaded, but the steerer was just a hair (maybe 3/8" at most) too short.

Q: Does anyone think that finding a Threaded 1 1/8 set with a "lower profile" ie shorter might be possible? If I could gain (lose) 1/4" to 3/8" thru the headset I could install the old shock and give it a go?

If this sounds like a stupid idea its alright. We do have a close local 2nd hand LBS that has bins of old parts, so I could sift thru a box of headset parts and look to see what heights *might* offer a llittle more exposed thread....

Thanks!

cheers

dmc


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