# race face atlas cranks



## dirtman36 (Jan 14, 2009)

just got some new race face atlas fr cranks!
they r awesome! super stiff and heavey but i like em better than
my old truvativ stylos....
its worth the $260:thumbsup:


----------



## rugbyred (Aug 31, 2006)

Let us know how the anodizing holds up. A friend of mine has some major rub marks after only a hand full of rides on his burnt orange cranks.

Eric


----------



## killjoyken (Jun 12, 2009)

So other than being a little heavier than the Atlas AM cranks, I'm guessing they're a little beefier and maybe a little stiffer? As far as the anodizing goes, I haven't come across any cranks that are rub proof.

The nice thing about the Atlas arms is that only the two raised ridges show wear.


----------



## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

I've got the blue steel ones and my mate has the purple ones they only get some slight rub marks on the raised edges, the rest looks fine even after a year of dh fr and dj


----------



## huntandride (Sep 29, 2007)

I thought that they were supposed to be one of the lightest dh/fr cranks there are???


----------



## dirtman36 (Jan 14, 2009)

yeah the lightest _*fr*_ cranks
but on the lightest cranks


----------



## dirtman36 (Jan 14, 2009)

i think the rubs kinda add a kool highlight on the black ones


----------



## dirtman36 (Jan 14, 2009)

theyr heavier than truvativ stylos


----------



## blooregard (Nov 1, 2009)

so do you still have the stylos???


----------



## captain spaulding (May 7, 2006)

dirtman36 said:


> theyr heavier than truvativ stylos


Those are XC cranks..


----------



## killjoyken (Jun 12, 2009)

Yeah, Stylos are not in the same class as Atlas FR. A fair comparison would be Truvativ Holzfeller or Shimano Saint.

And I had a set of Holzfeller OCT cranks on my Bullit that ended up look like this:


----------



## jamesl3ell (Dec 25, 2008)

I've had the blue steel ones for 13 months and you can't see any wear unless you look very closley.


----------



## Flystagg (Nov 14, 2006)

I guess I pedal weird, but I have never had shoe rub on my cranks

Is there any differance between the altlas AM and fr other than the am is for 73mm bb and fr is for 83mm?


----------



## dirtman36 (Jan 14, 2009)

blooregard said:


> so do you still have the stylos???


nope.
i bought the atlas cranks to rplace them...
they were super beat up the bolts were stripped
they were in super bad shape


----------



## ryan_daugherty (Oct 8, 2006)

i bought a pair for my dads Rune and they look and ride awesome .. I'm getting some of the red ones for my DH build this spring.


----------



## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

Can you people please stop supporting companies who use press-fit cranks?   

Clamp is the way to go. My buddy got a set of the Atlas cranks, put them on, and then realized their instructions were totally whacked and left one crank with 3 spacers on one side. Guess what! Couldn't get the cranks off without a special tool. Get your chain guide all messed up mid ride and you're screwed without it. Shimano style clamping can be done by anyone with a hex. 

Everything else is solid, their press-fitting is not so good. :nono: 

Too bad Shimano doesn't make an 83mm SLX crank.


----------



## highrevkev (Oct 31, 2005)

YoPawn said:


> Can you people please stop supporting companies who use press-fit cranks?
> 
> Clamp is the way to go. My buddy got a set of the Atlas cranks, put them on, and then realized their instructions were totally whacked and left one crank with 3 spacers on one side. Guess what! Couldn't get the cranks off without a special tool. Get your chain guide all messed up mid ride and you're screwed without it. Shimano style clamping can be done by anyone with a hex.
> 
> ...


Special tool? What are you talking about? I've been able to get both sets of my RF cranks on and off with nothing more than an 8mm allen wrench.


----------



## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

Only tool I've ever used to put my RF cranks on is a hammer drill, works ever time


----------



## Thermo2 (Aug 12, 2008)

highrevkev said:


> Special tool? What are you talking about? I've been able to get both sets of my RF cranks on and off with nothing more than an 8mm allen wrench.


Same. You just undo the 8mm bolt on the crank and off they come :thumbsup: 
How do these Atlas' compare to the older ones like '07???


----------



## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

I use the '07 AM cranks and think they are the best component I have bought.
I have broken EVERY SINGLE COMPONENT on my '07 bike apart from the cranks and the stem. I can't detect flex at 240lb, they just rule.

Amazing the BB also lasted 18 months!!!!!


----------



## dirtman36 (Jan 14, 2009)

yeah an 8 mm is all you need for the atlas cranks. 
the instructions were kinda hard to follow
so i just took them into a shop to have them put on.


----------



## Sneeck (Jun 13, 2007)

I'm still on my '06 atlas AM and they are simply amazing. Discard the stock piece-o-crap bb bearing's, running King's now. Couldn't whish for any better!

Ohh and for people ripping on the press-fit system, the first installation is *critically* important for the interface life. Mess this up by trying to install it without enough coppergrease you better keep an 8 mm hex with you at all time's cause your crank's will go loose. It's a bit sketchy yes but when done correctly it'll be flawless:thumbsup: I've uninstalled/ reinstalled mine aprox. 30 time's now and it won't go loose.


----------



## captain spaulding (May 7, 2006)

Sneeck said:


> I'm still on my '06 atlas AM and they are simply amazing. Discard the stock piece-o-crap bb bearing's, running King's now. Couldn't whish for any better!
> 
> Ohh and for people ripping on the press-fit system, the first installation is *critically* important for the interface life. Mess this up by trying to install it without enough coppergrease you better keep an 8 mm hex with you at all time's cause your crank's will go loose. It's a bit sketchy yes but when done correctly it'll be flawless:thumbsup: I've uninstalled/ reinstalled mine aprox. 30 time's now and it won't go loose.


On a sidenote they've sorted out the bearing issues w/the '09 stuff.. apparently their using phil wood grease in the bearings, I guess the problem with the old one was the grease either drying up or not keeping the bearings lubricated..


----------



## dirtman36 (Jan 14, 2009)

just checked closely and you can just notice some silver. ive been riding them for about 4 weeks but you cant see the wear unless you look very closely.
i thought the red would hold up a little better but wutever.


----------



## ISN (Feb 19, 2007)

CaveGiant said:


> I use the '07 AM cranks and think they are the best component I have bought.
> I have broken EVERY SINGLE COMPONENT on my '07 bike apart from the cranks and the stem. I can't detect flex at 240lb, they just rule.
> 
> Amazing the BB also lasted 18 months!!!!!


oh they'll flex. squeeze them by hand towards your chainstay. it'll take a bit of effort, but they'll flex.


----------



## Adrien (Jan 13, 2009)

captain spaulding said:


> On a sidenote they've sorted out the bearing issues w/the '09 stuff.. apparently their using phil wood grease in the bearings, I guess the problem with the old one was the grease either drying up or not keeping the bearings lubricated..


didn't they say they've been using phil wood for a while now? my x-type bb for my diabolus cranks creaks like nonother but it's been beat to hell for a 2 years.


----------



## Demodude (Jan 27, 2007)

*A ha blue steel*

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_SgRlM0sDWJI/R4Zrki-3osI/AAAAAAAAAW8/WOaLxbOOLws/s400/zoolander.jpg


----------



## jacksonbrowne (Aug 10, 2006)

Out of interest in comparing the weight to the supposedly flyweight (in the 83mm category) FSA Gravity Light (same model as used by Sam Hill for years) cranks I was replacing, I weighed that set and the Atlas FR I have now fitted.
Both 165 x 83mm. No chainring bolts of BB included - just arms and the main crank arm fixing bolt:
FSA Gravity Light 693g
RaceFace Atlas FR ... 710g

I'm by no means superrough on my parts but this is the 2nd pair of FSA 83mm cranks I have bent ( a real discernible wobble when pedalling; and no, it isn't the pedal axle). Can't see why I'd use FSA cranks again - not reliable.
Not heard yet of the Atlas FR cranks getting mashed out of shape; that's worth every one of the 17 grams weight difference...and then some.

FSA's so easy to fit - my 6-yr-old has done them.
RF - a fiddle to fit for sure, and grunt, and balancing out teh spacers takes time, but it does allow fine tuning and though slow, the system *does* work. 

I like em.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Have acquired a set of the 2010 RF cranks, and have noticed they have changed the interface a bit. It is still "press fit" and you still need spacers, but putting them together no longer requires a 4' prybar. 

The new interface looks very similar to the interface from ISIS. It goes together / comes apart much easier. I am just hoping they will not loosen the way ISIS crap did.

Cant wait for bones to finish mending so I can get out and try these things.


----------



## dirtman36 (Jan 14, 2009)

i've been riding the atlas for a couple months now and they are starting to show some wear... its nothing too serious but i was kinda expecting them to hold up a little better.
i'll post some pics soon. 
i also just got a 2009 dhx air 5.0. i'll get some pics up of that too.


----------



## redeyeksc (Apr 14, 2007)

i have a set...love the way they work but man they need to smooth out the edges on the crank arms, i could cut through steak with um...any type of technical riding without ankle protection and you're in a world of hurt


----------



## headstrong356 (Feb 20, 2008)

YoPawn said:


> Can you people please stop supporting companies who use press-fit cranks?
> 
> Clamp is the way to go. My buddy got a set of the Atlas cranks, put them on, and then realized their instructions were totally whacked and left one crank with 3 spacers on one side. Guess what! Couldn't get the cranks off without a special tool. Get your chain guide all messed up mid ride and you're screwed without it. Shimano style clamping can be done by anyone with a hex.
> 
> ...


Last time I checked you need a special tool to install/remove shimano cranks LMFAO. RF only needs a hex tool. But shimano needs that star head like hex tool... and the instruction are pretty strait foward for the atlas fr. Even if you f_ck it up you only moving you chainline within 3mm... not that much of a mess up. Its easy to fix if you mess it up... but if you don't follow the info giving I'm sure you can really move things out of place.

As for losing color, this crank has its own role cage if you will. The indent were the map is is protected by two outer wall. The graphics are in a indent(I-beam shape) on the crank. I doubt you shoes will be able to do much in there.


----------



## The Dude (Jan 19, 2004)

after screwing around with the diabolus cranks i have been a shimano guy ever since. have a pair of hones and a pair of the the new saints and bolt are so easy to work on its stupid.


----------



## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

even Siants wear after time


----------



## killjoyken (Jun 12, 2009)

Yes, Shimano cranks do require a special tool to remove and install the plastic crank arm fixing bolt, but it's small, plastic and costs around $5. I used to carry it in my pack until I realized that the cranks *never* loosen up. I still think Shimano should include it with a new crankset, but it's so cheap there's no reason not to buy one.

I swapped my Atlas cranks to my Jackal and put new XT cranks on my 4X a while ago and can honestly say I like the Shimano crank setup better. It's quicker, easier and idiot proof if you follow the instructions.

If you want pretty colors and like matching you bar to your cranks, then get the Atlas. If you want an affordable, bombproof, set-it-and-forget-it crankset, then get the SLX double.


----------



## suicidebomber (Feb 10, 2007)

YoPawn said:


> Too bad Shimano doesn't make an 83mm SLX crank.


Got a petition? Where do I sign up?


----------



## BkNYC (Jul 25, 2007)

Atlas r0x ! i love it, absolutely superb. Stiff enough for DH, light enough for AM or XC.. Made in Canada :thumbsup:


----------



## ducktape (May 21, 2007)

I've had Race Face Evolves and more recently Diabolus. Now that I have some secon hand FSA Afterburners which are similar to Shimano I can see the difference between the two systems.

It's great that the RF only need an 8mm allen key. They are relatively easy to get on and off but yes a pain in the butt if you have to do it a few times just to set your bb mounted chainguide or something!
With the FSA's the only problem I've had is rounding out the cap bolt.

Much of a muchness really, I think both systems are fine so it just depends what you prefer and what look you like better as well.

If I was buying another set of cranks I could go either way, I'd probably give SLX a go, they are cheaper for a start!
But with the elbow grease you need to get the Race Face cranks on, I think shimano would have more potential to loosen off, as my Sons BMX cranks seem to keep doing!


----------



## trailadvent (Jun 29, 2004)

Nice cranks! Long time RF fan here.

I never get when people start derailing with setup issues, I had the original AMs since they came out in 04, apart from a few BBs, std wear and tear imo Ive not had any issues with setup, movement or looseness!

People may have had issues with OEM or lower specc stuff but Ive had Atlas & Deus, Diablous, and FRs all easy to set up, and no problems, even setup others, because easier for munters to install does not mean better!

That said even BM can be very product opinionated at times!

I prefer RFs myself, I like the spline sizing over Shimano and I stick with products that prove themselves to me, the FRs are sweet, I rarley change for change sakes unless product lets me down, so am pretty loyal to good products.

Ive stuck with many products over the years that have just proven themselves in battle RF have done this for me

I had no issues setting up a recent set with a G2 Bash guard, simple measure and install, the instructions could be written better maybe but Ive never had an issue, removal is easy peasy, like anything its simple when you take your time the first time, go slow and work things out and not rush, even easier still when you know what you're doing, blame the worker not the product in most cases is the real issue.

Good to see some colors, I'm just plain badd ass black on all mine sets except Diablous which was silver, I do like the Atlas new design etching though, something from cool from local Canada a nice touch, lightweight stiff and sexy CNC machined


----------



## jamesl3ell (Dec 25, 2008)

Does anyone have these cranks with the 22/34/bash? Is so could you please measure the diameter of the bash fom me.


----------



## KillingtonVT (Apr 1, 2004)

rugbyred said:


> Let us know how the anodizing holds up. A friend of mine has some major rub marks after only a hand full of rides on his burnt orange cranks.
> 
> Eric


Here's an easy solution to the rub mark issue. I ended up doing this to both set's of my Atlas's on my Jedi and SX...


----------



## Lowball (Sep 1, 2006)

Hey Guys...

I was going to start a new thread but figured I'd ask here 1st.

Race Face Atlas FR Cranks vs Shimano Deore XT Hollowtech for FR/DH.

Just anyone's specific experience with both.

Pros/Cons.

Main reason I'm asking is because I just got a set of RF Atlas FR to replace the Deore XT and was wondering if I'm going backwards...or downgrading? I personally like the look of the Atlas FR's over the XT's, but others have said they like the XT better, but not giving any real reason...

Not really worried about overall weight being an issue.


----------



## 545cu4ch (Aug 11, 2005)

i usually dont mind that much about wear marks on my bike, but rub marks really break my balls for some reason


----------



## trailadvent (Jun 29, 2004)

Lowball said:


> Hey Guys...
> 
> I was going to start a new thread but figured I'd ask here 1st.
> 
> ...


Good one ya didn't start another thread these alreadyy enough RF V Shima ones already lol.

look facts are this the Atlas FR is a whole different crank to the XT,

Compare XT to the STD AM if you must, or maybe SLX.

I know some DH with XT, bt while its a nice crank its an XC crank and maybe light AM, I'd take the std Atlas for stiffness and strength over it however.

apart form what some ham fisted people say about RFs interface, I like it and its proven for me over 6years now, the Atlas FR is a real DH crank at a real competitive weight, Saint or RF up to you, not XT, the new Saints are sweet too, would I put XT on an XC/trail bike sure they ar a nice crank.

But XTs are not going to hold up on an 83mm BB interface for too long, Pros get new stuff all the time, they don;t have to worry about the next race if stuff breaks fails.

End of day you choose though. :thumbsup:


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Lowball said:


> Hey Guys...
> 
> I was going to start a new thread but figured I'd ask here 1st.
> 
> ...


It depends on what you are doing to some extent.

The XTs have stiffness/strenght to weight ratio with their hollow design.
The XTs have more proven/reliable bearings.
The XTs have a better interface that doesn't require preload or wear when you take them off/install them.

The RF cranks have more metal, but stiffness tests that have been performed have alwys shown them to be less stiff than a hollow forged design. Strength isn't the same as stiffness, but that's why they'll weigh more for the same strength/stiffness.

You can "upgrade" your XTs with new enduro bearings, hella cheap. I eventually stripped out an XT crank spline, but not after using it for 6 years (original hollowtech II design).

That said, if your purpose is heavy AM and freeride, the SLX cranks would be better than the XT, and if your purpose is heavy freeride and DH, obviously the saint cranks would be the applicable shimano cranks. The XTs get by just fine and can take some pretty good abuse.


----------



## trailadvent (Jun 29, 2004)

Jayem said:


> It depends on what you are doing to some extent.
> 
> The XTs have stiffness/strenght to weight ratio with their hollow design.
> The XTs have more proven/reliable bearings.
> ...


Jayem I was waiting for you to jump in here, dude I don't know what ya beef is with RF but you are so wrong!

If a product for me is crap, I'm up up and away faster than Clark Kent changing into Superman off to save Lois Lane!

Youre just so off.


> The XTs have stiffness/strenght to weight ratio with their hollow design.


Rubbish, thay's your opinion there's stack of reviews and tests that disprove that, and I'm 220 pounds Ive ridden both and they don't compare, I'm ligt on gear but I'm also big strong in legs and can feel flex.



> The XTs have more proven/reliable bearings.


Bearings are a nill equation with so many afterarket ones available, plus as you stated below, you can also swap out RF vers with Enduro so that's totally biased. Plus RF Atalas FRs come with diablous BB housing and far superior to the std ver,.



> The XTs have a better interface that doesn't require preload or wear when you take them off/install them.


That's the hamfisted approach I was talking of, yes it can be more complicatred if you don't know what youre doing and more so on the lower budget cranks, Shimano is simple peasy, Ive also seen those splines burr and end up with "both arms" @ 6oclock.



> The RF cranks have more metal, but stiffness tests that have been performed have alwys shown them to be less stiff than a hollow forged design. Strength isn't the same as stiffness, but that's why they'll weigh more for the same strength/stiffness.


More rubbish, they are comaprable to weight of Shimano and stiffer than XTs the std AMs are stiffer, only Saints will compare to the FRs.

I think you re qouted me on your last but I won't do it again since you missed it the first time.

Jayem I really don't know what youre comparing on every RF thread. but I bet its manily the low end RF which for me I would not touch, in this area I do think Shimano has a better product with SLX for non mechcanical people simple and relaible.

But as Ive said many times before Ive had my AMs since 04, been on Diablous nothing is stiffer stronger, I still have Deus since 06 and now have RF FRs which were a cinch to install on my DHR.

Ive never had a spindle or interface wear or have slop and my bearings are smooth, yes they get replaced they all wear, but its 40bucks hello and enduro will go into mine when needed some time off in the distance :thumbsup:


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

trailadvent said:


> Jayem I was waiting for you to jump in here, dude I don't know what ya beef is with RF but you are so wrong!


 Oh, I know you love to push people's buttons.


> If a product for me is crap, I'm up up and away faster than Clark Kent changing into Superman off to save Lois Lane!


No one said they are crap.


> Rubbish, thay's your opinion there's stack of reviews and tests that disprove that, and I'm 220 pounds Ive ridden both and they don't compare, I'm ligt on gear but I'm also big strong in legs and can feel flex.


I'm not ligt on gear, I'm pretty heavy on gear. I have tried these cranks, it's not a huge difference, but I'd rather not lug around extra weight. Check out the german mags that compare the stiffnes, and stiffness to weight. There's a stack or reviews and tests that disprove what your stack or reviews and tests seem to indicate. You're seriously trying to tell me that the I-beam is going to be better structurally than a hollow design? I-beams are using in certain situations, because they are cheap and work well for the intended use, but look at the direction of forces that a crank deals with. Doesn't make nearly as much sense.



> Bearings are a nill equation with so many afterarket ones available, plus as you stated below, you can also swap out RF vers with Enduro so that's totally biased. Plus RF Atalas FRs come with diablous BB housing and far superior to the std ver,.


I guess if you consider "mandatory upgrading" of the bearings to be an advantage...? It is established that the RF bearings do not have as good reliability. Do you think I'm making this up?



> That's the hamfisted approach I was talking of, yes it can be more complicatred if you don't know what youre doing and more so on the lower budget cranks, Shimano is simple peasy, Ive also seen those splines burr and end up with "both arms" @ 6oclock.


It doesn't matter, if one is easier and better on the interface, it is the better one. You're trying to argue that if you are carefull or simply "doing it right" you won't have problems...well maybe, but also maybe not, the interface wears, I have the situation happening with my truvativ cranks, you have to get just the right torque on there, but as it wears it takes more to set it correctly. A better interface is just that, better. Can you "get by" with the RF one? Sure, we did for the most part for many years, but there were problems with this and better technology is better. Stick to your square taper and canti-brakes I guess?



> More rubbish, they are comaprable to weight of Shimano and stiffer than XTs the std AMs are stiffer, only Saints will compare to the FRs.


Hmm, you forgot that I was mentioning stiffness to weight. Please enlighten me as to what the actual stiffness to weight? I've seen it, you claim to have, so why not put it out there?



> Jayem I really don't know what youre comparing on every RF thread. but I bet its manily the low end RF which for me I would not touch, in this area I do think Shimano has a better product with SLX for non mechcanical people simple and relaible.


A better product is a better product, bottom line. I had RF cranks back in the day (Turbine DHs), but that day has passed, there are better/more efficient products out there now. RF is still using the same design with the exception of their external BB, which isn't as good as the competition's. Is RF stuff crap? No (I've said this many times over). I could easily accuse you of being a "super-RF-fan-boy", at least as much as I'm an "anti-RF-fan-boy", but as I've said before, they don't make crap, there's just better stuff out there. It's not like I'd expect RF cranks to fail or something while I'm riding.


----------



## Lowball (Sep 1, 2006)

Wow!!!! :thumbsup: Heated discussion  Didn't know there was such a huge debate over the two brands...lots of pros/cons here.

A little background...I'm not a huge shimano fan and I've used nothing but Truvativ cranks on all of my bikes over the past 5 years an currently. My Demo7 II that I just bought used came with XT's that appear to be a triple crank but with the small chain ring nubs filed down for clearance of the BB and the 3rd ring replaced with a P20 bash ring. 

The college kid I got the bike from only weighed about 140lbs soaking wet and I'm about 220 with gear. I'd say I'm light on bike parts for the most...I've never broken any cranks or really anything for that matter other than a wheel or rear der. smashed on a rock or something. 

I'll be riding at NorthStar...but maybe only 4 or 5 times, one trip to Whistler, and one trip to Mammoth...and then the local shuttle runs in Auburn, CA. Not going to race or do any super gnar DH at high speed with a chance of major injury...I'm 40 with kids  

I like to jump and do drops...but I'm not a hucker doing 30' gap jumps.

Sounds like I made a good choice with the RF Atlas FR :thumbsup:


----------



## tacubaya (Jan 27, 2006)

From a physics/engineering point of view the Hollowtech design pwns the Raceface "I-Beam" design.

Some reading:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_moment_of_area


----------



## Thrasher (Jun 18, 2005)

Hi, this was a good read. Sounds like most of you really like your Atlas FR cranks! :thumbsup: 
I was debating on upgrading my 2005 RF Evolve XC's that came on my 2005 Kona Dawg Deelux. I think the Evolves are nice but they're starting to squeak and I probably need them maintenanced. 

I was looking at RaceF'ace's website and thought the Atlas AM's or FR's would be a nice upgrade. The Atlas AM's weigh 55G Less than the FR's. They also cost $35 more on Jensen's website. I'm doing lots of front range mountain biking in Colorado and also some DH at the resorts. 

So, I want a crank that's good for both XC and DH. Which would u suggest for this. Atlas AM or FR? Thanks for any/all input.


----------



## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

sick cranks. they are a bit more of a pain to set up than shimano, but it is worth it to me. saints are way too heavy for me and not necessary, so i got the ltd. ed. imba version and they are stiff enough for me and not too heavy for just the arms.


----------

