# 2020 cheap lights thread



## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

A lot of the products in older discussions about budget lights can no longer be found. Flash in the pan products.

What worthwhile budget lights have you purchased lately that are available as of the last quarter of 2019 at least? Under $50? Under $100?

I noticed that, although NiteRider is not know for "budget" lights, the Lumina 900 Boost can be found for $50.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

mack_turtle said:


> I noticed that, although NiteRider is not know for "budget" lights, the Lumina 900 Boost can be found for $50.


That's a deal for a quality light. Mebee I'll get the wife one.
*Lumina 900 Boost*

My neighbor just ordered this from KD, I'll post feedback when it comes in:
BL2S 2 X CREE XM-L2 U3 2200 LUMENS BIKE LIGHT


[edit] Looks like Darth Lefty posted on this light over on the 2018 thread.

BTW:


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

Sofirn SD05.
https://www.banggood.com/Sofirn-SD0...-p-1510970.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

with the code *AC19*
 it cost *18$*

the light delivers with a 5000mah 21700 Batttery ~ 300 lumen in low for 11 Hours or
in medium mode ~*900 Lumen for 3 Hours full regulated*!!!
High mode will be set from a timer after 4 minutes down to medium mode.

with a 4000mah battery you will have near 2,5 Hours Runtime.
i will make next week screenshot but for example take this for the beam.

you can use 18650 batterys to in the light with lower runtimes.

the beam throws far and is wide so overall great.
IF the battery becomes near empty ~90% the light ramps down to ~100-150 lumen and make 3 blinks every 2 minutes to indicate you , its near empty and replace it with a full one.
a great feature to.

this small light outperforms easy my KD2 with a 4x18650 pack with 3200mah Zells!!

BL2S and KD2 are *not fully* regulated lights they become darker over runtime.

for helmet mount 
https://www.banggood.com/BIKIGHT-Bi...lip-p-1506036.html?rmmds=buy&cur_warehouse=CN

on the handlebar i am using this types but my version look a little bit ´different.
https://www.amazon.com/Ezyoutdoor-f...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HAAGTMBRKPE80BRA28NX

NiteRider have no challlangers for the SD05.
https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/niterider-lumina-1200-boost-1091435.html#post13886770

Niterider lights are not fully regulated like the SD05 so they become darker and darker over time.....


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

lostplaces said:


> with a 4000mah battery you will have near 2,5 Hours Runtime.
> i will make next week screenshot but for example take this for the beam.


Maybe you know the answer to something I've been wondering about the testing methods for output charts like this that seem to be commonly available for flashlights (which is cool/awesome!). Do they have any air flow (fan) to cool them and ambient temperature standards + if kept cooler would these lights produce higher sustainable outputs?



> Niterider lights are not fully regulated like the SD05 so they become darker and darker over time...


Unfortunately Nightrider and *most* of the other single cell lights available are affected by this to different degrees. A few of the better single celll bike lights do have nicer beam patterns (Nightriders newest models are very good and Cygolite) and most have more usable UI programs so I guess you have to choose your poison.

Nice post, lost of good information here!!!
Mole


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

lostplaces said:


> Sofirn SD05.
> https://www.banggood.com/Sofirn-SD0...-p-1510970.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN.


This looks promising and that price is ridiculous. How you used and tested this product, or are you basing this on the manufacturer's claims?


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## Forest Rider (Oct 29, 2018)

I paid about the same for the 950 boost ($50) from Amazon a year or two ago. It's a little heavy for the helmet but something one can easily get used to. I feel tired neck after a full evening ride -getting used to it now with partial night rides.

The beam is solid and definitely provides enough light. 

The niterider did interfere with my cateye wireless bicycle computer. It does not affect my Garmin with wheel sensor (as far as I've seen so far, but only tested -have not ridden a ride with the light running and Garmin recording).


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

mack_turtle said:


> This looks promising and that price is ridiculous. How you used and tested this product, or are you basing this on the manufacturer's claims?


https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/diy-integrated-sphere-780122.html

no i measure anythink what i but just for my interesst how much companys are lie in there promises.
i buy 10 Years ago alot of overprised junk, so i start to check all.
others here do it to.

or to pick out outstanding lights like the SD05 for example, it outperformces lights in the 100$- 150$+ range easy so a great buy.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

lostplaces said:


> Sofirn SD05.
> https://www.banggood.com/Sofirn-SD0...-p-1510970.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
> 
> with the code AC19 18$


Still intrigued. It looks like the option from Band Good does not include a 21700 cell. a two-pack of Sofirn 21700 batteries, and a Basen charger ends up being about $46 with that discount. Amazon has a Sofirn SD05 with a single battery and charger for a few bucks less. based on how fast and easy it is to deal with Amazon, I am going to do the latter.

I have some 18650 cells and a charger for them, so those should serve as nice backup power. I have some Twofish blocks, so we'll see if those are big enough to strap the light to my bike.


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## Darth Lefty (Sep 29, 2014)

I just bought a BL2S from Kaidomain. $40 shipped for the full kit with battery and charger. I'll tell you in a month if it's any good for a ride home and in a few months if I really like it. But it's certainly a lot brighter and less blue than my old Cygolite 300. With a small head unit and remote battery it's more secure on the handlebar too.


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## Zayphod (Nov 11, 2018)

Hello light gurus!

I'm looking for a self-contained light that won't break the bank - sub $50 including the batteries.
I don't need anything fancy - 45mins on 800 lumens or so is good enough for me, but the tint must be on the neutral side. I ride mostly technical single tracks with moderate pace and they're not very twisty. I don't ride in full darkness, but the days are getting shorter, so I need some assistance on my way down.
For now it will be my main source of light, but if I get hooked to night riding I may buy a second source.

I know the NW tint usually means higher price, so if necessary I may increase the budget.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

Zayphod said:


> I know the NW tint usually means higher price, so if necessary I may increase the budget.


Tint color have nothing to do with the price.
you see it on all lights from kaidomain and the KD2.

alot companys offering there lights in 2,3 or more color options without any difference.

my Trail light last year was the Emisar D4S and all colors cost same price.
only XP-L HI LED option cost a little bit more about the higher LED Price then SST-20.

my light this year will be the Astrolux mf01 mini if the start shippping it next week and same, all colors same price.

basicly i agree with you 6000-7000K a horrible light.
4000K is a dream on the Trail, and if i get 4000K 95 CRI its

i have stopped ~4 Years ago to use cool white bluish light on the streets or in the woods.



mack_turtle said:


> Still intrigued. It looks like the option from Band Good does not include a 21700 cell. a two-pack of Sofirn 21700 batteries, and a Basen charger ends up being about $46 with that discount.


you can use 18650 Batterys to in the light.

cheap 20700/21700 cost ~5$.
in the past i use this one in lights.
https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/21700-20700-size/sanyo-ncr20700b-lithium-battery.html

i switch to this type cost he losse no sigificant capacity in winter conditions.
https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/21700-20700-size/samsung-inr21700-40t-4000mah-30a.html

cheap chargers <10$

but you are in right if you not have a charger and batterys you need ~15$ add.
but not 25$


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

$13.50. I just bought the light itself.

The pics in the listing shows one cord...but it actually somes with two connections. One is the standard connector and the other is a USB connector. The wire splits into two. I'll be using the USB connector with a power bank inside the pack. 4.2v/5v USB.

Rode on the street last night and it looks like it works pretty good.

Three settings, Hi/Low/Strobe









https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32893813900.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.75574c4d4GJInu


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## Zayphod (Nov 11, 2018)

lostplaces said:


> Tint color have nothing to do with the price.
> you see it on all lights from kaidomain and the KD2.
> 
> alot companys offering there lights in 2,3 or more color options without any difference.
> ...


So what can you recommend in my case?

Since it will be my first light, probably I should start from the helmet. So something with a narrow beam that goes far? And later something floodier for the bar. Is this the recommended combination?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

For a beginner single light, I'd not go with a super narrow throwy light as you'll be struggling to see your surroundings. For the budget I'd go with a flashlight and a mount. I'd probably recommend the Sofirn SD05 with coupon code (though I've not seen it in action yet): https://m.banggood.com/Sofirn-SD05-...H_yw6YMWk44LpMMtfyUl3eSNRIYm1K7oaAvUHEALw_wcB . My understanding is that it's on the cooler side of neutral white (or neutral side of cool white). The Sofirn 21700 cells have been tested to be decent. I don't have a 21700 battery charger to recommend (see BLF reviews for reputable/safe chargers). Various flashlight mounts out there (including just using Velcro or silicone straps), but lostplaces posted up a nice goproounted flashlight mount: https://m.banggood.com/BIKIGHT-Bike...36.html?akmClientCountry=America&rmmds=search. Pickup at least two cells and you've got a backup.

There are numerous other flashlight options, but this one has good features and output levels at a great price with the coupon. And being a flashlight it serves other purposes as well.

Note that you could go with the Sofirn SP40 in 4000k (NW) and it has a built in USB charger: https://m.banggood.com/Sofirn-SP40-XPL-1200lm-3000k4000k-USB-Rechargeable-Headlamp-18650-18350-LED-Flashlight-p-1567226.html?akmClientCountry=America&rmmds=search

-Garry


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## Zayphod (Nov 11, 2018)

Thank you for the reply, Garry. Yeah, Sofirn SD05 looks like a great flashlight for the money and the only thing that bothers me is the tint.

P.S. Isn't Sofirn SP40 too floody for a helmet light?


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

I dont like Cool white light in the Woods to.
I put in a 4000K LED 20mm board.

http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight-DIY...-J2-40G-Neutral-White-4000K-CRI80-LED-Emitter

the one in the SD05 is a 24mm easy to replace , open 2 srews unsolder 2 wires.....


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

What handlebar holder are you using for that Sofirn SD05 lostplaces?


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Prophete-Universal-Mount-Torch-Multi-Colour/dp/B00LXTSBZ8

with stronger rubberband.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

Looks like the Sofirn SD05 is on back order also the Sofirn SP40 XPL on bangood. 
Expected Shipping Date: 2019-10-27 for the Sorfirn SD05


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32814309660.html?spm=a2g1y.12024536.productList_3952307.pic_2









***


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

ROTFL!!!!

-Garry


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Might just be better than this poor fella's solution......

https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-nigh...400-lumens-3-4-hour-runtime-$100-1117999.html


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

Vancbiker are you thinking of making a custom mount for that Ryobi shop light LOL.


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> ROTFL!!!!
> 
> -Garry


It reminds me of an old Wile E Coyote scene where the roadrunner impersonates a train coming out of a tunnel.

Love the battery clamps, its like they expect the guy to wear a car battery like a fanny pack.

In other news Welight posted some early information about the XML3 on BLF. Slightly more powerful than a SST40, 1500 lumens at five amps and has bond wires visable.

Teaser XML-3 Coming 5A rated | BudgetLightForum.com


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

caRpetbomBer said:


> Vancbiker are you thinking of making a custom mount for that Ryobi shop light LOL.


Yeah baby! The next *big* thing for sure.


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## Dave Mac (Jan 9, 2017)

I am going to try this seems like a good deal https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D27L1NR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

That one isn't much good. See the reviews on it as a "Boruit" branded headlamp (sorry, I don't have a link to that one nor a model# - I rememeber a Russian website with a good review and pics - use Google Translate). If I remember correctly, that dual emitter one has terrible heatsinking. The "good" one is this one, however it's not a thrower and nowhere hear 1,000 lumen output! The one you linked isn't worth that price; you should be able get the Boruit headlamps for around $9 to $15.

-Garry


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## Dave Mac (Jan 9, 2017)

garrybunk said:


> That one isn't much good. See the reviews on it as a "Boruit" branded headlamp (sorry, I don't have a link to that one nor a model# - I rememeber a Russian website with a good review and pics - use Google Translate). If I remember correctly, that dual emitter one has terrible heatsinking. The "good" one is this one, however it's not a thrower and nowhere hear 1,000 lumen output! The one you linked isn't worth that price; you should be able get the Boruit headlamps for around $9 to $15.
> 
> -Garry


thanks for the info much appreciated


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## jindustry (Dec 21, 2010)

Does anyone know the maximum amperage draw of the Sofirn SD05?

Researching 21700 batteries, I notice that some batteries are formulated to be longer lasting with lower amperage draw while others are optimized for higher amperage draw with lower mAh ratings.

What is the amperage draw of a flashlight like the Sofirn SD05?

Which type of battery would be better for the Sofirn SD05?

maximum continuous draw of 10A with a higher mAh rating (longer lasting) 
maximum continuous draw of 35A with a lower mAh rating.

It seems like a lot of batteries are judged in the context of vaping which has a high amperage draw, but I'm not sure how that compares to flashlights.

The led, itself, lists a "Maximum Drive Current" of 3A (6 V) but I'm not sure how much draw the rest of the flashlight electronics adds or if this stat is even meaningful. https://www.cree.com/led-components/products/xlamp-leds-arrays/xlamp-xhp50-2/


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

jindustry said:


> Does anyone know the maximum amperage draw of the Sofirn SD05?


under 7 Amps, and that only for 3 minutes.
and only if a battery can deliver it, if you put in a 15 year old laptop battery, the light steps down to lower current.

the SD05 has the high mode"~2600 lumen" limited with a 3 minute timer.
only the 1000 lumen mid mode you can use all the time.



jindustry said:


> What is the amperage draw of a flashlight like the Sofirn SD05?
> 
> Which type of battery would be better for the Sofirn SD05?
> 
> ...


the SD05 can over time only deliver a constant output of ~ 1000 lumen and the draw from the battery is small ~ 1,3 Amps so you can use what you want.

in summer or warm conditions high capacity batterys the better one.
in winter high drain batterys about there lower internal resistance deliver better and longer runtimes.

for winter use take the samsung 40T with 4000mah for summer any 5000mah battery.
same in 18650 size, for winter samsung 30Q for summer you can use any 3500mah battery.



jindustry said:


> The led, itself, lists a "Maximum Drive Current" of 3A (6 V) but I'm not sure how much draw the rest of the flashlight electronics adds or if this stat is even meaningful. https://www.cree.com/led-components/products/xlamp-leds-arrays/xlamp-xhp50-2/


if you take the Astrolux EC01, the XHP50 draws ~ 12 Amps or more."~ 4000 lumen from an XHP50"

the SD05 is not an heavy dragster like the EC01, any battery is ok for it what you have at home.


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## sandro87 (Oct 20, 2019)

I would like to try the SD05 just for fun, problem is have to buy mount, battery and charger. How much would that end up to be?

Anyone found any Chinese product that actually have a cut off and wide beam that competes with famous manufacturers?


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## jindustry (Dec 21, 2010)

Lostplaces, thank you for the detailed recommendations. Very helpful - especially the specific battery recommendations to a light novice like myself!


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

sandro87 said:


> Anyone found any Chinese product that actually have a cut off and wide beam that competes with famous manufacturers?


what is a famous manufacture?
i have seen 90% of overpriced junk from alot of manufactures the last years.

to find a good Road light is a life task.

i am using now an acebeam BK10, befor i used a two modified Light coz nothing out of the box has fulfilled my wishes.


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## sandro87 (Oct 20, 2019)

lostplaces said:


> what is a famous manufacture?
> i have seen 90% of overpriced junk from alot of manufactures the last years.
> 
> to find a good Road light is a life task.
> ...


Like Ravemen and Fenix.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

Fenix i know for ~ 10 Years as a medium price range flashlight producer and selling worldwide.
on the world market fenix is one of the big players for flashlights.

but for Road lightning they have produced to that time only 2 produkts what are to use for that task, BC35R and BC25R.

Raveman i never read befor some weeks here, looks like cheap XM-L aliexpress light with a glued in battery and a ripple lens.
Its also looks so that they have only this one and only product and sell it in different sizes "1 and 2 LEDs and 1 18650 glued in or 2 of them".

in europe where i life nobody owns that stuff and it looks very overpriced for that what it is.

XM-L LED based lights are from the year ~2012, today you will find this LED only in ultra low quality or cheap made products coz they are outdatet.

take a convoy S2 XM-L put in a ripple lens= raveman with changeable battery for ~10$

i dont see here the famous point on the road light market from one of them.


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## sandro87 (Oct 20, 2019)

So you think the ravemen pr1200 for example is overpriced and shitty?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Need to keep in mind that lostplaces has a super narrow point of view about what is good and everything else is crap. You would be much better served to listen to advice from people like CatManDo or MrMole who don't carry such extreme bias.


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Got a KD ? for you guys that have ordered from them.

I ordered the BL70 from KD back on 10/8. Below is the tracking info. I've emailed both the delivery people and KD and no response. The package arrived at LAX on 10/12 but since then nothing.

Take a look and let me know if this sounds as usual. If not is there another way to contact them as there doesn't seem to be a response now.

Thx

2019-10-12 18:34LAX / Shipment arrived at airport of destination country
2019-10-12 11:47HKG / shipment departed from airport of origin country
2019-10-11 21:30HKG / Hand over to airline.
2019-10-11 21:20HONGKONG / Arrived at Hong Kong hub.
2019-10-11 07:04Domestic Air Cargo Termina,Shenzhen,China / Depart from facility to service provider.
2019-10-11 03:00Domestic Air Cargo Termina,Shenzhen,China / Shipment arrived at facility and measured.
2019-10-11 03:00Domestic Air Cargo Termina,Shenzhen,China / Fpx picked up shipment.
2019-10-11 00:44EN ROUTE TO DHL ECOMMERCE
2019-10-11 00:40ELECTRONIC NOTIFICATION RECEIVED: YOUR ORDER HAS BEEN PROCESSED AND TRACKING WILL BE UPDATED SOON
2019-10-10 14:14


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

What KD have to do with the import prozess and time what it need in your country?

in my country it need for my orders ~2-18 days do pass the import customer service on the Airport.

call them if you think your Airport need to long.

On KD all my orders need ~ 2 weeks to arrive at home.
i always take free shipping so i can not check Tracking.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

lostplaces said:


> i have seen 90% of overpriced junk from alot of manufactures the last years.


Ich auch. I have a bag full.

Wo leben Sie in Deutschland?


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Little update- I tried that Sofirn light last night. Hole hell it's bright! I only used the low and medium modes, and blasted it on high just to freak every out for a second. I love how well it works but I think it's too heavy on my helmet for comfort. It gave me a bit of a headache after a while and there is no way to adjust the angle.

I noticed last night  that a lot of riders use a small light with an external battery pack on their helmets and now I see why. Both lights out out enough light to see the trail ahead, so I am going to have to put the heavier one on the bike and the external battery pack (MiNewt) on the helmet.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

yes for helmet its to heavy, empty light is ~ 120 gramm.
with a 21700 you are at 190 gramms.
with a 18650 you are at 165 gramms.

i am only use ultralight helmetlights.

a Zebralight H600 is with an 18650 battery at ~90 gramms.

lights with external batterys are pointless.
most of them are technicly junk an are at ~ 60 gramms or more.

the other problems:
what to do with wires and what to to with the battery pack......

a cheap product for helmet have Sofirn to like the pro companies design helmet lights with the SP40.
ist no so powerfull and more heavy then a Zebralight but cost only 20$.

the SP40 with an 18650 battery put in will be at ~ 100 gramms.


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

A small light w/ small external battery pack can actually be better on the helmet and balance weight better w/ the pack mounted in the back of the helmet and the light in the front of course.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I love my Nitefighter BT21 with my 2-cell Fenix Battery case on my helmet. The weight is pretty balanced and each light only has a short cable which I just wrap through my helmet vents. Here are the closest pics I could find to show it:



















Somewhere I had pics showing the battery pack mounted to the helmet, but I can't find them now. The pack is velcro'd to the back of the helmet and then I use a thick 1" wide velcro strap around the battery pack and through the last vent to cinch it down tight.

-Garry


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

^^^ mb323323 speaks the truth :thumbsup:









*****


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

garrybunk said:


> I love my Nitefighter BT21 with my 2-cell Fenix Battery case on my helmet. The weight is pretty balanced


you will have ~200 gramms ore more and 200 gramms on your head are 200 gramm on your head.
and balance something out is balancing somethink out.

i have try a DIY light out what ends in ~ 115 gramm for a 2x18650 battery pack and the light is 50 gramms.
this 165 gramms setup is still to heavy for me on helmet.
my 1000 lumen 4 Hour runtimes setup is nice but with 165gramms to heavy for me.









my zebra only weighs 90 gramms, thats the only thing what my head is able to carry any gramm more will break my neck.


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## sandro87 (Oct 20, 2019)

Can you suggest something really affordable to use on my helmet along with the mount? Maybe something from China? It will be used along with the PR1200.


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## sandro87 (Oct 20, 2019)

mack_turtle said:


> Little update- I tried that Sofirn light last night. Hole hell it's bright! I only used the low and medium modes, and blasted it on high just to freak every out for a second. I love how well it works but I think it's too heavy on my helmet for comfort. It gave me a bit of a headache after a while and there is no way to adjust the angle.
> 
> I noticed last night that a lot of riders use a small light with an external battery pack on their helmets and now I see why. Both lights out out enough light to see the trail ahead, so I am going to have to put the heavier one on the bike and the external battery pack (MiNewt) on the helmet.


What's your set for the Sofirn?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

My old neck gets tired with nothing on the helmet so I won't carry a battery on it. I also won't use a self contained light because the lightest are still 3 ounces and don't put out much light for long. A 2 or 4 cell pack in a jersey or jacket pocket is my favorite power source for a helmet light. I do get that some have an issue with a cable, but it has never bothered me.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

sandro87 said:


> So you think the ravemen pr1200 for example is overpriced and shitty?


it looks like the typical technically lowest grade aliexpress XP-G and XM-L LED stuff on the first look that is sold for ~20€.
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32822374361.html?spm=a2g0x.12057483.1000001.8.6b2d67deTD2MTV

The only differenz ist that one spot lens is removed and a Street style lens is put in.
you can see that as a good or bad.

i for myself use specialized lights for what i need them.

for work commute i use a light with a 100% beam design for street use.

for woods or trails i use a light that have a beam shape specialized for that, and what clear my wishes in beamprofile, lightquality, lightcolor temperatur, tint shifts or high CRI lightning, light amount or energy consumption.

on questions like is this product good or not....what will you get as anwer?

another clear answer.
technically the raveman is on the level from the year ~2013 and in the last years alot of nice upgrades on the LED market happend in all aspects from alot LED companys.

only on thing i can answer you clear, if you dont know a company, like raveman i never read bevor some weeks.
if a light is equiped with XP-G or XM-L LEDs that shows you always clear that you get a technically very very outdatet product.

if you are looking for solid lights in the lower prize range.

for a cheap Street/Road light take a look on the lumintop B01.~30$
for trail/woods take a look at the sofirn SD05.~20$


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## sandro87 (Oct 20, 2019)

I don't think the one you linked on AliExpress has anything to do with the ravemen, those products are full of fake specs and usually don't deliver over 450 lumens.

Who says the lumitop b01 is actually 850 lumens? And the beam doesn't look so wide


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

lostplaces said:


> it looks like the *typical technically lowest grade* aliexpress XP-G and XM-L LED stuff on the first look that is sold for ~20€.
> https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32822374361.html?spm=a2g0x.12057483.1000001.8.6b2d67deTD2MTV
> 
> The only differenz ist that one spot lens is removed and a Street style lens is put in.


"Typically technically lowest grade" explains the difference between a Ravemen product and that light you linked. Your cheap Chinese light comes with the poorest bin emitters which probably are clones rather than real Cree products. I'm also sure the rest of the components used to assemble this light are of the lowest grade. The 6000 lumen rating on your light looks like 300-400 lumens at best to me (in their provided video) where as my PR900 and LR800 Ravemen lights both calculate out to just under 900 lumens from my LUX readings. Poor example to prove your point!



> if you are looking for solid lights in the lower prize range.
> 
> for a cheap Street/Road light take a look on the lumintop B01.~30$
> for trail/woods take a look at the sofirn SD05.~20$


At least both these look to be good quality. They still are flashlights and have flashlight characteristics that aren't necessarily desireable when used as a bike light.









Looking at the runtimes for the 850 lumen turbo mode and the 450 lumen hi mode I notice their both about the same. Looks like most of the usable time in the turbo mode the light is making power outputs more like the 450 lumen hi mode. From my experience with the Sofirn SP40 it's quite probable it would be able to maintain more output with air flow but my guess is it will degrade much faster than a slightly more powerful Ravemen PR900 light. Runtime in highest setting on the PR900 are equal to the 450 lumen hi mode of the B01 but the PR900 has double the battery capacity so both pretty close in efficient use of battery current. Bangood price for the B01 was listed at 37.90 with no battery included and ebay had the PR900 for 56.21 today so even with the extra cost of 2 18650 batteries or a high capacity 21700 battery (to make runtimes equal) the B01 will be less money but for a slightly less powerful, thermally unstable light (in turbo mode) with less features (PR900 also has wired remote and OLED battery capacity display). Think I'd pony up a few more bucks and go with the Ravemen

SD05 definitely has some nice features compared to your typical Lumina/Urban but so does the Ravemen PR series lights. SD05's 2500 lumen turbo mode is on a 3 min. timer and even if it would be able to maintain that output all your going to get with a round beam on the bars is tons of reflective glare so not really usable for bicycle application. 1000 thermally regulated stable lumens on the other hand is pretty good considering how inexpensive the lights is but too heavy for helmet use and from the beam shots I've seen pretty spotty beam which wouldn't be my choice for the bars either. Ya the Ravemen PR900 still costs about twice as much but produces a wonderful beam pattern for off-road and would consider the extra cost money well spent if I were looking for a off-road bar mounted light. I wouldn't mind owning a SD05 but can't seem myself using it as a bike light when I have so many better choices (for my application anyway).
Mole


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

MRMOLE said:


> .......Looking at the runtimes for the 850 lumen turbo mode and the 450 lumen hi mode I notice their both about the same. Looks like most of the usable time in the turbo mode the light is making power outputs more like the 450 lumen hi mode. .......


Since those "runtimes" are using the NEMA FL1 standard it means that in high mode the light could be down to 50 lumen at the end of the runtime and still comply with the FL1 standard. Any light manufacturer using FL1's definition of runtime can post numbers that sound great, but are truly useless for bike use.

IMO, if a light is rated at 850 lumen the runtime should be determined by how long it takes before it hits ~600 lumen or ~25% drop.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

MRMOLE said:


> Looking at the runtimes for the 850 lumen turbo mode and the 450 lumen hi mode I notice their both about the same.


Turbo have same like Turbo from the SD05 a 3 minutes timer!

high ist 100% regulated and put out measured 490 Lumen what is for Streets more then enought.
turbo have a measured 880 lumen output, but after 3 minutes it drops to 490 lumen.

there are reviews and measurings in the net to find.

https://www.ixbt.com/live/uploads/images/original/04/96/13/2019/07/24/5cfc511463.jpg

one of the biggest difference on the quality side of products is the Brigthness regulation.

lower quality lights become dimmer over time.
good products have a 100% brightness output over time.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

lostplaces said:


> Turbo have same like Turbo from the SD05 a 3 minutes timer!......turbo have a measured 880 lumen output, but after 3 minutes it drops to 490 lumen.......


In their specifications they show 850 lumen with 2 hours and 20 minutes runtime. Why do they lie about that? Just another false specification designed to lure an unknowing buyer to their product.

They try to obfuscate the runtime claim in the fine print with the statement "The run time on turbo is accumulated due to the intelligent temperature control".


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## sandro87 (Oct 20, 2019)

I still don't get it how they can declare +2h of 850 lumens when it's 3 minutes?


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## sandro87 (Oct 20, 2019)

MRMOLE said:


> ebay dag the PR900 for 56.21 today so


too bad on amazon.it it's €80 for both the PR900 and PR1200.


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## sandro87 (Oct 20, 2019)

Guys why I can't find a set of light+mount or simply the mount on ebay/aliexpress/bangood for a bike helmet for a flashlight? The mount with straps and and holder that you can adjust the angle. You would expect to find unlimited sellers for $1 for these kind of things but I can't find any!
Even on Amazon (Italy) I can't find a set.

Something like this https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0105/2052/products/BIX2933-sm_large.jpeg?v=1504816354


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

sandro87 said:


> I still don't get it how they can declare +2h of 850 lumens when it's 3 minutes?


Because it is better to lie about the product to gain sales than to be truthful and lose sales to another seller that lies. Buyers should reject these crap sellers, but too many choose not to research and understand what they are really getting.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

Vancbiker said:


> In their specifications they show 850 lumen with 2 hours and 20 minutes runtime. Why do they lie about that?


they give *ANSI-FL1* spec, that the light runs in turbo mode what *starts with 850* lumen runs ~ 2 hours 20 minutes with a 2600mah battery.
*and that 100% agree with ANSI-FL1*.
ANSI FL1 Standard - LED-Resource

the only thing , i wish from alot companys cleaner ANSI tables with addet *runtimegraphs* like fenix for example do it for all modes, to see better how the regulation works and what you really get in output over time.
https://www.fenixlighting.com/wp-co...52-rechargeable-flashlight-specifications.jpg

the secound point,
coz they will make a budget light they anoucend that they will limit the turbo *with a Timer to 3 minutes * coz XP-L LEDs will need over *10 Watt power* with any driver typ what will result in a runtime under 1 Hour in constant regulated 850 lumen with a 3000mah battery!!!

in that chase people will cry about the short runtime.

so they try to figure out to bringt a good light amount on the street and good runtimes.
they design for the light on the other side a high quality buck driver with a low amount of energy losses and great regulation.

The Turbo can be used as a short booster.

that you get for 30$, with code i have seen it for 25$.
but technicly for the prize its a great design.



MRMOLE said:


> "Typically technically lowest grade" explains the difference between a Ravemen product and that light you linked. Your cheap Chinese light comes with* the poorest bin emitters* .....


then lets make a backstep for some years.
~2008 Cree becomes the top dealer for bike/flashlights.

~in the year 2010 the XP-G2 was released ands the state of the art tech, all flashlight or bikelight producer what give anythink on there name use it.
also unknown companys like Magicshine become with the MJ-872 hipster.

~2012 was the time that all company switch to the tech improved XM-L/XM-L2 LEDs, again *all company start* to use it.

~2014 the next generation comes out XP-L/XP-L2, smaller package improvments in effizenz , lightquality and output + the option on domless versions.
tonns of ways to make great better lights.

again all conpany upgrade there products........*ohhh wait whats happening now?*

on the bike market *only Exposure* goes with the tech LED improvments and give it to consumers.

~ 2016 the next very big step in LED tech Cree have done with the XHP series.

and noe look on the bike market?
nothing!!!!!!!

to equip a light wie LED junk from the year 2010 like for example your Ravemen PR800 is done shows more then clear *that they will sell you cheapest tech outdatet stuff*.

im am playing now ~ 15 years with LEDs and have measured alot of them, and still have ~ 70 different types at home.
and thats why i still wonder that people waste money on lights that are equip with totally outdatet LED tech from 10 Years ago or how you call it* poorest emitters*.

*in the year 2019/2020* to waste more then 10-20$ for lights that equiped with XP-G or XM-L junk is money throw in the garbage.

now some clear tech abilitys from your light equiped with the 10 year old LEDs.

PR800= 2x XP-G2 powerd with a 3000mah battery.
this two LEDs will need ~ 12 Watt power or more to produce the promised 800 Lumens what will result in constant regulated output with <50 minutes of runtime.

i own all of them:
XP-G2, XP-G3, or the last try from Cree XP-G HE series and know 100% what this suff can or not can do.

that tech outdated stuff you get on aliexpress for 20$.:thumbsup:

you can see very easy without more detailed measurments on the used LED tech what you are buy.
on that way its very easy to figure out , what can be overprices tech junk or a good falue product.



sandro87 said:


> I don't think the one you linked on AliExpress has anything to do with the ravemen, those products are full of fake specs and usually don't deliver over 450 lumens.


all importend specs are:
2x XM-L/XM-L2 light with 2x2600mah= 5200mah battery= 20$ junk.
that light will exacly that deliver what this low tech from the year 2012 can do.

i remenber to orderd one like this ali 2 years ago, and it runs at not regulated ~800 lumen with horrible low runtime......

Raveman PR800= lower tech then the aliexpress.:thumbsup:

like i sayed the only difference ist that one lens is changed to a ripple one.
thats is worth pay 40$ more?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

lostplaces said:


> they give *ANSI-FL1* spec, that the light runs in turbo mode what *starts with 850* lumen runs ~ 2 hours 20 minutes with a 2600mah battery.
> *and that 100% agree with ANSI-FL1*........


That's exactly why I contend that the FL1 standard is worthless for comparing usefulness of a light for cycling. The FL1 standard measures runtime until the light output is 10% of the rated output. 10% of the rated output for most of these cheapie Chinese lights is totally useless for cycling.

Sadly some better manufacturers have fallen into using FL1 too. They know that unknowing buyers will overlook their product if they spec true usable runtime and outputs because the performance numbers are lower yet the price is higher.


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## sandro87 (Oct 20, 2019)

lostplaces said:


> they give *ANSI-FL1* spec, that the light runs in turbo mode what *starts with 850* lumen runs ~ 2 hours 20 minutes with a 2600mah battery.
> *and that 100% agree with ANSI-FL1*.
> ANSI FL1 Standard - LED-Resource
> 
> ...


OK let's assume you're right for the specifications and that Ravemen is selling old stuff. 
Problem is that you're not providing a real alternative to the Ravemen PR800 for $40 less that has
- two lenses with cutoff beam and mtb biking, ACTUALLY usable for cycling
- battery that lasts at full lumens for hours
- all in one package without carrying multiple items

If you post it i'll buy it today.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

> Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
> "Typically technically lowest grade" explains the difference between a Ravemen product and that light you linked. Your cheap Chinese light comes with the poorest bin emitters .


My bad on my choice of words here. I should not have included the term technically (which changes the meaning). "Typically lowest grade" is a more accurate meaning to what I was trying to convey.



lostplaces said:


> they give *ANSI-FL1*
> then lets make a backstep for some years.
> ~2008 Cree becomes the top dealer for bike/flashlights.
> 
> ...


Appreciate your review of recent emitter evolution. A good bike light is far more than just what emitter it is equipped with though so definitely don't agree that all XP-G and XM-L equipped light are junk. I agree it would be nice to see XHP technology become more commonly used in bike lights but as of now only a few successful ones are available. Flashlights are not bikelights and if they were the best solution we'd all be using them on this forum.



> now some clear tech abilitys from your light equiped with the 10 year old LEDs.
> 
> PR800= 2x XP-G2 powerd with a 3000mah battery.
> this two LEDs will need ~ 12 Watt power or more to produce the promised 800 Lumens what will result in constant regulated output with <50 minutes of runtime.
> ...





> all importend specs are:
> 2x XM-L/XM-L2 light with 2x2600mah= 5200mah battery= 20$ junk.
> that light will exacly that deliver what this low tech from the year 2012 can do.
> 
> ...


Unfortunately your lack of knowledge about Ravemen lights has led you to post incorrect information and draw incorrect conclusions. PR900 comes with 2 2600mAh batteries not a single 3000mAh. Additional battery capacity allows it to have a fairly stable output of just under 900 lumens till the tail end of its runtime. Doubt your Aliexpress light with its poor quality (but newer tech) emitters and parts will come close to that. Comparing only a individual component in no way guarantees how the light will work as a whole. I found this output chart (while looking for my PR900 chart which unfortunately I didn't find) I made for my Ravemen LR800 transposed over a Lumina 850 micro chart that's a good example of how different a light can perform even with the same emitters of similar quality.

Raemen LR800 Black/Hi, Red/Med. mode








That only compares output consistency and runtimes. Other factors (beam quality, thermal efficiency, UI, mounts, reliability) are more likely to be much poorer on your Aliexpress light (which I'm sure you know) than the PR900. Testing emitters only makes you qualified to comment (intelligently) on emitter performance. I own and have tested this light (PR900) and for its claimed output and cost found it to be a great performer and value. You should probably take a look at one before you call it junk. LOL
Mole


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## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

sandro87 said:


> Guys why I can't find a set of light+mount or simply the mount on ebay/aliexpress/bangood for a bike helmet for a flashlight? The mount with straps and and holder that you can adjust the angle. You would expect to find unlimited sellers for $1 for these kind of things but I can't find any!
> Even on Amazon (Italy) I can't find a set.
> 
> Something like this https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0105/2052/products/BIX2933-sm_large.jpeg?v=1504816354


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32862102592.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.19c94c4dDIDvXf https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32879368116.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.19c94c4dDIDvXf


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

MRMOLE said:


> Appreciate your review of recent emitter evolution. A good bike light is far more than just what emitter it is equipped with though so definitely don't agree that all XP-G and XM-L equipped light are junk.


Its the most importand part same like in a flat TV the used Panel.
If you go into a shop you will pay 500-1000$ for a flat TV with a build in 10 Years old panel?
low resolution outwashed, ugly colors, ultra low contrast........

no you will get state of the art tech for your money.

the same part takes the used LED in a light.

what type of light they finally make with that is another question.

if people not stop waste money for more the overpriced cost, the more on the unserious side placed Companys will not stop sell this junk.

the importand point you can see easy on that way what you really get for your money.



MRMOLE said:


> Unfortunately your lack of knowledge about Ravemen lights has led you to post incorrect information and draw incorrect conclusions. PR900 comes with 2 2600mAh batteries not a single 3000mAh.


Its not a lack from whatever you write here always about different Ravemans with different batterys an LEDs all the time.

First PR800
them PR900 PR1200

and now LR800

stay on *one* of them and not mix them together.



MRMOLE said:


> I made for my Ravemen LR800 transposed over a Lumina 850 micro chart that's a good example of how different a light can perform even with the same emitters of similar quality.
> 
> Raemen LR800 Black/Hi, Red/Med. mode
> 
> ...


Ok now the LR800.
thats this one right?
https://www.merlincycles.com/ravemen-lr800p-usb-rechargeable-front-light-155959.html

specs:
1x XP-G2 with a 2200mah battery.

next basic info.
XP-G2 is a maximum 1500ma current speced LED!!!
so to reach more then ~400 Lumens it need to *heavy overcurrent* it what result in lowering the lumen per watt effizenz!!!!!

here you see what a XP-G2 need on current for how much *real output* what is consistent with my measurments to without the losses from an optic.
https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-nigh...r-bt40s-cat-review-963636-4.html#post12506589

to get from a XP-G2 LED 1000 Lumens it need ~ *5 Amperes* of current pump into it.
that says a 2200mah battery will be sucked down in <20 minutes!!!

that means heavy overcurrent the LED and you need to get away the *over 20 Watt* of heat generation..........what is near impossible some of my XP-G2 what i have tryed alot years ago burned down.

an XM-L need for the same performance~ *3,5 Amps*.
an XHP will need a draw from the same battery at ~*1,6 Amps *to reach this output.

so that what you post is your measurment?
its lightyears away from that was is possible with an XP-G2 and hits the abilitys what XHP able to do.

its nice that your LR800 equiped with an XP-G2 reaches 3 times higher output with ~1,5 Amps current then this LED is able to to.

now back reality:

an XP-G2 driven by 1,5 Amps will deliver ~ 350-400 lumen and a 2200mah battery will last for a little bit over 1 Hour.
That is the LR800.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

lostplaces said:


> Ok now the LR800.
> thats this one right?
> https://www.greenparkbikestation.info/product/ravemen-lr-800/
> 
> ...


I think there is some kind of mix up here. The LR-800 is actually called the LR-800P. I think this is the one that MRM has. *Comes with an XM-L2 emitter and 2600mAh battery.* The website that you linked to...I don't know where they got that information. The one I linked to is the actual Raveman website, not a vendor site. You would be right though, no XPG2 is going to be able to create 800 lumen without burning up.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

Cat-man-do said:


> I think there is some kind of mix up here. The LR-800 is actually called the LR-800P. I


 i see this "company?" is confusing.

norhing have changed:
XP-G2= 2010 tech
XM-L= 2012 tech

to calc is no problem all of them.:thumbsup:

now:
1x XM-L2 and 2600mag battery.

to get out of the front real 800 lumen"=-10% losses from optic"
will need 3 Amps pump into a XM-L2.

in a constant brithness regulation it will result in ~ 45 minutes of runtime with a 2600mah battery.

that they write somethink about 1,2 Hours runtime it is clearly to see that this light will drop in brightness over time.

if this light will be equiped with XP-L, what was the next generation LED in the year 2014 from CREE, the result will be 10-15% higher.

if this light will be equiped with XHP LED from 2016 tech the result will be 800 Lumen constant output for 2 Hours.

your SST-40 Based light will be placed between XP-L and XHP tech.:thumbsup:

you see it is very easy to roughly classify the product place and ~ value.

next question or better how you clearly can see identify aliexpress stuff,
why build in 2200mah or 2600mah junk if 3000-3500mah battery state of the art .

the first downside.
they glue them in and next they use *lowest grade* on batterys on the market, *quality companys use always good high capacity batterys* in there products.

and if i read on product XP-G or XM-L class my first mind is always, ohhhhh my god again Aliexpress junk.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

lostplaces said:


> i see this "company?" is confusing.
> 
> to calc is no problem all of them.:thumbsup:
> 
> ...


I won't bother to respond to your other post since the information on that site was incorrect other than to say I own a PR900 and a LR800 and have access to a PR1200 that I bought for my Stepfather a couple of Christmas's ago (so am familiar with all those lights firsthand).

As far as this post I basically agree with most of what you said except a couple of points. 1) Last I looked at the output capabilities of XM-L emitters was a couple of yrs. ago and way back then 3A would net almost 1100 lumens so even with the 10% loss of efficiency from optic losses I don't get where you got your figures. Unless I'm wrong here this would also affect your consumption figures too. 2) Back to your Junk comments. Of course you are entitled to your opinion that you base on specification and data sheets. I enjoy that stuff too but in the end how the light performs on the bike is what really counts which is how I ultimately choose to judge a light.
Mole


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## sandro87 (Oct 20, 2019)

bcriverjunky said:


> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32862102592.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.19c94c4dDIDvXf https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32879368116.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.19c94c4dDIDvXf


Thank you!!!
I'm missing the flashlight now  any advice? I need something very light just to light a bit where I'm looking at. I think 400 lumens is enough being a spotlight.
USB rechargeable with 2 hours of usage should be fine.


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## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

sandro87 said:


> Thank you!!!
> I'm missing the flashlight now  any advice? I need something very light just to light a bit where I'm looking at. I think 400 lumens is enough being a spotlight.
> USB rechargeable with 2 hours of usage should be fine.


Based on the reviews here I'm going with Sofirn SD05. But it's not a USB light.


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## sandro87 (Oct 20, 2019)

bcriverjunky said:


> Based on the reviews here I'm going with Sofirn SD05. But it's not a USB light.


Maybe it's also too heavy for an helmet light. I was thinking Lumintop AA 2.0...?


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

sandro87 said:


> Maybe it's also too heavy for an helmet light.


SD05 used with a 18650 battery will be ~ 160 gramms for me that is to much on helmet.

but if i read that people use lights + battery packs mounted on helmet with 200-400 gramms setups and thats no prob form them.:skep:.

for the handlebar ist great, fix it tight enought and have a full night fun.
i used it last night most time the ~ 300 lumen mode and sometimes switch to ~1000 Lumen up.

i came home after 2 Hours in use and if i put the 21700 battery into the charger he says the battery was near full.


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## cue003 (May 6, 2011)

I think too many people see the ANSI/FL1 standard on packaging or it get thrown around in discussion and interpret it completely wrong. 

Sure there is a standard and sure it is good that many follow the standard but the stand does allow many to post incorrect information simply because of how the standard is interpreted. 

Knowing the limitations of a standard is just as important as knowing what the standard means, and the biggest limitation of the FL1 Standard is the runtime rating.

Read the specs for some of these lights and you will see 850 lumens for 2 hours and blah minutes and then you get someone to defend that saying they followed the standard. But if you read the actual standard it says:

“Runtime - Tested with fresh batteries from 30 seconds after the light is turned on until the light output reaches 10% of the initial measurement. This is the total time of useable light before most consumers will change the batteries”

The test is done in an integrating sphere just like the lumen test with light output measured every 15 minutes. 

Manufacturers have taken that and spun it to say max output and runtime in a manner than too many consumers think that is the output heir get for the duration. and this leads to further confusion because not many light manufactures come directly out and say if their light output is regulated or not. Many are not. 

Many do post runtime graphs for their products but most of the ones I have come across are for regulated lights or from “large” manufacturers.

Other important aspects to a light are beam quality, thermal efficiency, UI, mounts, reliability etc (as were pointed out by MrMole posts #63 above).


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

cue003 said:


> I think too many people see the ANSI/FL1 standard on packaging or it get thrown around in discussion and interpret it completely wrong.


befor ANSI FL1 and the lack of knowlege, no option to check statts if they true or not.
companys lie to anyone, that why it was released.

but the downside is that now a full runtimegraph is needet.

so its possible if a company is very unserious, to make a light that starts at lets say 800 lumen:
after 30 secound it still have 800 lumens, after that it drops to lets say 100 Lumen and runs for 6 Hours.

ANSI FL1 says to that its a 800 Lumen 6 Hours runtime light.
coz 100 Lumens over 10% of the start brightness.

A Serious Company will inform about that, and why they do that.
Underious will you not give a feetback.

At times that anyone can make a light sphere for 20$ and check peoducts and figure out lying unserious companys that not more a problem.

serious light building companys is like i say very easy to indentify coz they will not sell you tech outdated junk.

they sell you actuall tech for serious prizes and some off them waste additional time in the elektronic driver design to give you the best amount of light vs runtime or tonns of programming options and other really usefull things.


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

BL70 arrived yesterday. Woohoo.

It's heavy. Kinda big too. It's NOT for the helmet. It seems well made but the wires are smaller than the XP3 and of course the mount is the basic cheap rubber O ring. Inside, who knows.

All I was able to do was test on the wall last night and outside in the yard. It of course doesn't have programming like the XP3 but it's only 38 bucks, lighthead only. The one I got has an op reflector. The beam pattern has a noticeable ring typical of other designs like this. Since I can't program it, I just tested it on high against the XP3. The XP3 is set at 90% b'c it gets too hot otherwise even when I'm riding. It just doesn't get cold enough here I think. It's not brighter then the XP3 in my opinion. I have to use it on the trail to really assess that tho. But based on my backyard findings, looks a touch less bright than the XP3. Still, for 38 bucks it's bright and if you buy the Panasonic KD battery, it's less than 80 total and a good deal. Durability who knows at this point.

I'll let you know how it matches up on the trail against the XP3 next week. I can't get out for a few days due to the smoke and my elect is scheduled to be off today thru Monday so I actually need it on the low setting for a few days. And BTW, the low setting is so low it's not useful on the trail from what I can tell. But it'll work great the next few days in the house!

MB


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

lostplaces said:


> ......serious light building companys is like i say very easy to indentify coz they will not sell you tech outdated junk......


A serious light building company will use the components that produce the desired/required characteristics regardless of "outdated" or not. The latest in tech does necessarily equate to better in all aspects.


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## Smokee300 (Jul 8, 2014)

Is this worth looking at for $37?(sierra coupons) http://sierra.com/lezyne-macro-driv...00-lumens~p~765wf/?filterString=s~bike-light/


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Smokee300 said:


> Is this worth looking at for $37?(sierra coupons) http://sierra.com/lezyne-macro-driv...00-lumens~p~765wf/?filterString=s~bike-light/


Here's a link to a review from road.cc

https://road.cc/content/review/236212-lezyne-macro-drive-1100xl

Was looking at the Sierra site you linked and noticed it said 2.5 hrs. runtime in high but I believe that to be a 650 lumen setting. The 1100 lumen setting showed 80 min. a couple of other places I looked. I have no first hand experience with this light but hope this helps.
Mole


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## Smokee300 (Jul 8, 2014)

MRMOLE said:


> Here's a link to a review from road.cc
> 
> https://road.cc/content/review/236212-lezyne-macro-drive-1100xl
> 
> ...


Thanks, I will check that review, i should have mentioned that I'd be pairing this with a BL40 that I already have.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

MRMOLE said:


> Here's a link to a review from road.cc





> to our beam test it's not as bright as other lights with the same number of lumens. Compared with the


it´is more then vissible that is much dimmer then the same other 5 stars.

and thats not a review copy paste anythink and give all this convoy S2 tech based 10€ lights 5 stars????
they dont write anythink they measrured runtimes or whatever on any way.

here is a review.
https://www.gearlimits.com/gear-rev...-review-lezyne-macro-drive-1100-xl-headlight/



> has a total burn time of *1 hour and 20 minutes* when used at full powe


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

lostplaces said:


> it´is more then vissible that is ~ 3 times dimmer then the same other 5 stars.


I did not claim to know anything about this light or recommend it. Only provided a link to a review so member asking about it could more easily research it and make up their own mind.
Mole


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## biking_tg (Dec 27, 2018)

sandro87 said:


> Can you suggest something really affordable to use on my helmet along with the mount? Maybe something from China? It will be used along with the PR1200.


Well any two LED light from Kaidomain oder aliexpress, the original Yinding might also be a good reliable solution, if you can get yout hands on one. You just have to get a proper battery, in germany one shop is called enerprof. ships for sure to italy as well.



sandro87 said:


> [...]
> Anyone found any Chinese product that actually have a cut off and wide beam that competes with famous manufacturers?


To design and produce a proper cut-off reflector with useful beam pattern (or a proper lens setup which does the same) is not a simple task, it takes time, effort and knowledge.
Therefore the chinese copyist selling cheap stuff have not yet suceeded in that business. The Acebeam BK10 and the Lumintop B01 are a start, albeit the former imho has way too much light in front of the bike and the latter is a bit narrow as you stated.
(There is a cheap chines copy of the Lupine SL, but the light distribution .... well let's say it has much... room for improvements)

Totally agree with Vancbiker


Vancbiker said:


> A serious light building company will use the components that produce the desired/required characteristics regardless of "outdated" or not. The latest in tech does necessarily equate to better in all aspects.


btw: Lupine stated once the don't use the XHP leds in their lights because these LEDs have difficulties getting the heat away.


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## Ottoreni (Jan 27, 2004)

Xanes XL29

Any thoughts on the Xanes XL29? Came across this light while lloking for a self contained unit.

Saw mention of some other Xanes lights not being great quality. Wondering if anyone has gotten their hands on the XL29 model?
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32954312426.html


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## sandro87 (Oct 20, 2019)

Ottoreni said:


> Xanes XL29
> 
> Any thoughts on the Xanes XL29? Came across this light while lloking for a self contained unit.
> 
> ...


Not 100% sure but I had one similar sold under another brand from AliExpress and the light is pure crap, maximum 500 lumens if not 450.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

biking_tg said:


> btw: Lupine stated once the don't use the XHP leds in their lights because these LEDs have difficulties getting the heat away.


Interesting information. That would definitely limit that emitters hi output potential for bicycle apploications. Thanks!
Mole


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

biking_tg said:


> ......btw: Lupine stated once the don't use the XHP leds in their lights because these LEDs have difficulties getting the heat away.


I find that interesting too. The XHP is a nicely efficient emitter, but does not make much of a beam in small optics either. Too wide unless the optic or reflector is >30mm in size. I have not tested the XHP35 HI which should do better, but I would be surprised if it made a beam as nice as the XP-L HI with a 20mm optic. Of course the XP-L HI being ~4 years old means a light using it is junk  .


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## biking_tg (Dec 27, 2018)

MRMOLE said:


> Interesting information. That would definitely limit that emitters hi output potential for bicycle apploications. Thanks!
> Mole





Vancbiker said:


> I find that interesting too. The XHP is a nicely efficient emitter, but does not make much of a beam in small optics either. Too wide unless the optic or reflector is >30mm in size.[...]


Here is that thread in the Lupine Forum (using google translate). The user "Wolf" is Lupine's founder and managing director/CEO
Size limitation of the optics might be a reason as well why lupine hasn't switched yet to these emitters, as they always want to make the light heads as small as possible.

Reason for Edit: Google translate link didn't work


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## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

Can I use these two together? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-light...hash=item2626bf0ba2:m:mQLbiwZsGNcDQWRM1aLX2rA https://www.ebay.com/itm/282654259801


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

biking_tg said:


> btw: Lupine stated once the don't use the XHP leds in their lights because these LEDs have difficulties getting the heat away.



I expect they are a little fussy now, they used to mount their LEDs direct to a normal circuit board, so they know quite a lot about overheating LEDs.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

bcriverjunky said:


> Can I use these two together? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-light...hash=item2626bf0ba2:m:mQLbiwZsGNcDQWRM1aLX2rA https://www.ebay.com/itm/282654259801


Well according to Banggood's page on this light it's a 4.2v light and has a slightly different sized connector - so the answer is no. It's a pretty low grade budget light and those battery packs are pretty low grade too. I reviewed those packs branded as "RockBros" and while the cells used inside were decent, the craftsmanship inside was poor.

-Garry


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## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

garrybunk said:


> Well according to Banggood's page on this light it's a 4.2v light and has a slightly different sized connector - so the answer is no. It's a pretty low grade budget light and those battery packs are pretty low grade too. I reviewed those packs branded as "RockBros" and while the cells used inside were decent, the craftsmanship inside was poor.
> 
> -Garry


Thank you. Search goes on..


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

Vancbiker said:


> I find that interesting too. The XHP is a nicely efficient emitter, but does not make much of a beam in small optics either. Too wide unless the optic or reflector is >30mm in size. I have not tested the XHP35 HI which should do better, but I would be surprised if it made a beam as nice as the XP-L HI with a 20mm optic. Of course the XP-L HI being ~4 years old means a light using it is junk  .


An XP3 with 4C XPL-hi is my dream light. The XHP35 hi has a really nice beam but the efficiency really isn't a big enough step up for manufacturers to deal with its 12v rating. The rest of the XHP series has lousy color distribution and needs a big tint mixing TIR lens to look good.

It takes a top bin XHP 70.2 to match to beat the efficiency of a triple XML2-U3. They are just so efficient at low current and the big die gets rid of heat so well, it seems most manufacturers don't see enough benefit to trying new stuff. Welight has posted on another forum that Cutter is expecting XML3 samples possibly this December, he also posted a picture and said Cree expects it to be more powerful than the SST-40. So next year everyone can drop the new XML into an existing light and be more powerful and cutting edge again without really doing anything.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

Vancbiker said:


> I have not tested the XHP35 HI which should do better, but I would be surprised if it made a beam as nice as the XP-L HI with a 20mm optic. Of course the XP-L HI being ~4 years old means a light using it is junk  .


XHP35 HI and XP-L HI are bouth great for heavy fucusing beams with lower color tint shifts then domed ones.
i still have a bunch of ~ 20 XP-L Hi LED to put it into lights and like them.
in 3c or 5c or 5D.

the only downside from XP-L Hi ist they are ~ 50 Lower effizenz have."=50 more energie consumtion for same lightpower"

XHP35 Hi downside ist you need spezial 12 V drivers and they are more expensive.

the new white flat"black flat generation 4" ist for ultra heavy light focusing at moment the most importat LED if you like this types more.

with 8 Amps driven it delivers ~ 1500 Lumen.

in a 40mm optic it focus the beam near *3 times* more then XHP 35 HI and XP-L Hi.
i reach a little bit below 300.000 lux throw distance with it.
the the XP-L Hi/XHP35 Hi only reach ~100.000 lux.
for example a XM-L" what is found i alot cheap chines lights will reach onlx ~30.000 lux about here bulky dome.

the effizenz is much lower then the others, thats the downside of the white flat.










the cool light color ist white flat the warmer one is XP-L HI/XHP-35 HI focused.










he put it befor a ~25mm TIR and reach 125.000 lux throw.
Fireflies E01 Osram / SST40W Flashlight

basic bike light for trails have ~ 5.000-10.000 lux throw for compare.
thats why this LEDs types and abilitys are not an very importand part for bike lights.

~5mm sized LEDs set befor ~20mm optics"lens or reflector" give a good ratio of flood and throw for biking.


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## Ponik78 (Oct 12, 2019)

Perfect option


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

I took the BL70 out a few nights ago. I didn't have my Ituo XP3 to do a side by side but I've ridden enough to know how it compares. Next week I'll try to do a side by side. The light worked fine. The mount as you know is not the best and it moved a bit in the rough stuff but overall was ok. Especially considering the $$. I personally don't think it's as bright as the XP3 on high. However, you can run this on high all night and as long as your moving it won't overheat. It barely got warm. Thinking it may not be right, I let it sit on high after the ride for 5 minutes to see if it would heat up and yes it did. Not as hot as the XP3 but def hot so it's working. Temp was in the mid 50's. I tested it next to my Lumina 950 boost. On boost w/ both batteries full charge the BL is brighter but not by a significant amount. I have to say I think the BL70 is around 1700-1800 lumens. Don't know if anyone has sphere tested it but I'd be interested to know. It seems like a good light as it's simple and that's probably better for this type of light. On, off, 3 settings that's it but not much to go wrong and totally useable on medium and high. Low is not useable except to fix a flat or in the house during a 4 day power outage!

38 bucks plus whatever you pay for a battery for about 1800 lumens and a decent beam is hard to beat.


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## Doublestuff (May 30, 2019)

Did 3 nights of riding this week and decided I needed something to supplement my Petzl headlamp. I'm in for one of the SD05 light combo's off amazon. I'll report in with the results.


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## Doublestuff (May 30, 2019)

I like the light. Good brightness and pattern. Not crazy about the mount. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Which mount are you using? I'm still waiting on my backordered SD05 from Banggood (I'm in no rush). 

-Garry


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## Doublestuff (May 30, 2019)

The mount linked in post 3. I used amazon and paid more cause I was in a rush. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Wait, that can't be so! That mount in post #3 is the ultimate according to mr. lostplaces. With that mount and a flashlight every mountain bike rider will have the ultimate lighting system. :skep:

I hope your trails don't have many low hanging branches.....


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> I hope your trails don't have many low hanging branches.....











I rode this setup last night just to say I've done it. Joking aside, I was so paranoid I would look strait down every time I went under something. Flat, open, and almost nothing with any overhang made this possible but for normal trail riding no way would this work for me (too heavy also).

*Doublestuff:* Here's a pic. of how I ended up setting up that mount on the bars with a SD05. Ditched the rubber ladder strap (wouldn't hold the light securely) and replaced it with a couple of silicon lighthead o-rings (upgraded bar mount too). Big improvement!
Mole


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## Slipway (Sep 19, 2018)

Hi, 
what would be the 2020 eqivalent of 
1. bars: bt40s (modded around 2000 lm) in the 20-50 Euro range w/o battery
2. helmet: ituo wiz xp2 (1500lm) around 120 Euro incl. battery?

Any suggestions are welcome (but no flashlights )


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Doublestuff never commented whether or not he had it mounted on his helmet or his bars. I would only use that mount on the bars myself. I much rather situate a flashlight tight down into the vent grooves of my helmet (if I use a flashlight).

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> I would only use that mount on the bars myself. I much rather situate a flashlight tight down into the vent grooves of my helmet (if I use a flashlight).
> 
> -Garry


I agree, even still being able to use a Gopro interface style mount there's plenty of room to move the light closer to the helmet. Not sure I'd be able to mount a flashlight aimed the way I like mounted to the vent grooves but this did allow me to test how the SD05's beam worked on the helmet (very good!) and gave my neck and upper back muscles a heck of a workout.
Mole


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

garrybunk said:


> Doublestuff never commented whether or not he had it mounted on his helmet or his bars. ...


In post #96 he makes it sound like he ordered the flashlight and mount to replace a helmet light.



MRMOLE said:


> I agree, even still being able to use a Gopro interface style mount there's plenty of room to move the light closer to the helmet.......


Yeah that mount is not designed well for helmet use. In most instances GoPro mounting on a helmet puts the light near the crown of the helmet and relatively high, but that one looks like it raises the light ~.5" higher than necessary.

Despite making all kinds of GoPro adapters for lights, I won't use the GoPro system for my helmet light. I prefer a lower, forward mounting to minimize any chance of snagging a branch. Years ago, I caught a branch with my old NR halogen light. Just about pulled me off the bike and my neck was sore for quite a while afterward. No desire to risk that again


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

Any Black Friday/Cyber Monday deals happening on lights?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> I would only use that mount on the bars myself. I much rather situate a flashlight tight down into the vent grooves of my helmet (if I use a flashlight).
> 
> -Garry


Hey Garry,
I've been trying to mount the SD05 directly to my helmet but first thing that contacts the helmet on that light is the magnetic ring that switches the modes. Figured you may have been down this road before and may have a good idea what to use to elevate the torch a little so the ring has clearance and can be rotated to switch modes. Appreciate any input (for anyone)!
Mole


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I don't Mole, and I've never had a flashlight with a ring to control modes. I'm still waiting on my light. I've not used a flashlight often, but when I have it's either been a Convoy M1 or Convoy S2.

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> I don't Mole, and I've never had a flashlight with a ring to control modes. I'm still waiting on my light. I've not used a flashlight often, but when I have it's either been a Convoy M1 or Convoy S2.
> 
> -Garry


Thanks anyway! Lowering the light would definitely make it less of "a pain in the neck". I liked how the light worked (output and beam pattern wise) so worth a little effort trying to make it more comfy + this may also be a good option for heavier self-contained bike lights. Hope you get your light soon.
Mole


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## Slipway (Sep 19, 2018)

Is there any new Chinese alternative for a lupine wilma like the mj872 or Nitefighter bt40s available? I havn't found anything with TIR optics...
Thanks


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Well Banggood finally cancelled and refunded me for my Sofirn SP40 headlamp (4000k) order, but at the same time shipped out my Sofirn SD05.

I don't think I'm going to reorder the SP40 elsewhere as now I have preordered the new Astrolux HL01 headlamp through BLF's groupbuy (thanks for lostplaces tipping us off to that groupbuy). Group Buy price was $24.99, now $27.99. Light has BLF custom Anduril firmware which includes temperature monitoring, custom programming for number of modes and custom levels of each mode. It'll rub on both 18650's and 18350's. (Note the BLF page says "XP-L HI" but the product page says "XP-L or SST20". I doubt it's XP-L HI.) Go XP-L for max output (available in a range of tints) or SST20 for max CRI.

Links:
Banggood product page.

BLF Group Buy Page.

Astrolux would be the brand to have build a custom light for us if we ever tried again.

-Garry


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

i get refund my SP40 from banggood to.
and Sofirn shipped it out some days ago.
and a SD05 for 18$ and the new DF10" 18650 size equiped with a Samung LH351D high CRI" for 19$ i oder to to check it out.

for the HL01 i preorder 3 of them.
SST-20 x2 i hope they really build in the highest quality from it on the market like promidesd.
and 1x XP-L HI in 4000K


SST-20= higher lightquality and more throw"spoty"
XP-L HI= more output per used current.

i dont think the SP40 is a challenger for the HL01 but i will compare it after i recived both.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> I don't think I'm going to reorder the SP40 elsewhere as now I have preordered the new Astrolux HL01 headlamp through BLF's groupbuy (thanks for lostplaces tipping us off to that groupbuy).
> 
> -Garry


Sounds like the smart thing to do. Astrolux looks like it offers a lot more light for just a little more cost. My SP40 works OK but lots of room for improvement (as a bike light).
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

*Sofirns on 26" Fork*

Sofirn SC31B SST20 1000lm 4000K Sofirn SP40 Cree XPL 1200lm

Vonpri [2 Pack] Bicycle Flashlight Holder Torch Clip 360º Rotation by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Sofirns alone:
Left: Sofirn SC31B SST20 1000lm 4000K Right: Sofirn SP40 Cree XPL 1200lm 4000K by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Sofirns paired with KD BL2S Head Lamp
Left: Sofirn SC31B SST20 1000lm 4000K Right: Sofirn SP40 Cree XPL 1200lm 4000K by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Paired with KD BL70S + Diffusion Film, Bars
Left: Sofirn SC31B SST20 1000lm 4000K Right: Sofirn SP40 Cree XPL 1200lm 4000K by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Sofirn SP40 has kind of a weird color, not fond. SC31B much cleaner white at the same 4000K, guess the binning is different. Would have just bought a couple of the latter had I known then how much better it is, much cheaper too at only $15.93.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Sof...ch-SST20-1000lm-5-Modes-with/32917707163.html

QR on those Vonpri mounts kind of a PITA; fortunately the Sofirns easily unscrew so I can just take out their 18650 cells for charging leaving the flashlights clamped to the fork.

Have no idea yet what the run time might be for either of these on Turbo but guess I'll find out soon enough!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Yeah, the tint mix of those Sofirns doesn't look so good. Nice beam coverage though. 

Just got another Christmas surprise - got a shipping notice on my Astrolux HL01 pre-order! 

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> Just got another Christmas surprise - got a shipping notice on my Astrolux HL01 pre-order!
> 
> -Garry


I've been wondering when you were going to get that light. Looking forward to hearing how it performs!!!
Mole

***My Sofirn SP33V3 arrived a couple if days ago. Ramping UI and mode button work great and should add a lot of additional flexibility over the SD05 for cycling use (IMO). Unfortunately no time to mess with it currently but looks promising.***


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

BTW - I've also received my Sofirn SD05. I only had time to throw a half discharged weak cell in it, but still pretty impressive for +/- $20! 

Mole, have you considered trying the Astrolux EC01? And what do you think of Ramping UI's for cycling use? I don't think they work so well due to the fact that you can't adjust your light level very quickly (esp. on a gnarly and/or fast descent). I do think Anduril's user programability could probably be one of the best firmware out there allowing anyone to setup the light exactly as they want it. 

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> BTW - I've also received my Sofirn SD05. I only had time to throw a half discharged weak cell in it, but still pretty impressive for +/- $20!
> 
> Mole, have you considered trying the Astrolux EC01? And what do you think of Ramping UI's for cycling use? I don't think they work so well due to the fact that you can't adjust your light level very quickly (esp. on a gnarly and/or fast descent). I do think Anduril's user programability could probably be one of the best firmware out there allowing anyone to setup the light exactly as they want it.
> 
> -Garry


Hey Garry,
SD05 is a nice light and I'm sure you'll be happy with it. My only non-fixable thing with it for cycling use was the mode levels. Once I added the elliptical lens cover it softened the intensity enough to where low was a little dimmer than I cared for and med. was still a bit too bright for MUP's and not as bright as I wanted it for trails. Ramping mode will allow me to adjust to my taste but agree the ability to program the mode levels would be more ideal.

I am interested in that EC01 light but am waiting to see how they perform. It's going to need a lot more throw than the SP40 before I push the button.
Mole


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Mole, 
Are you confusing the EC01 with the HL01? (I don't own an EC01, but noticed Cat has one.)

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> Mole,
> Are you confusing the EC01 with the HL01? (I don't own an EC01, but noticed Cat has one.)
> 
> -Garry


I'm not very familiar with the Astrolux lights so I probably am (confused). The one I'm interested in (HL01?) is the one similar to the Sofirn SP40. Cat mentioned how quickly the light he'd been reviewing heated up so probably not a good choice for me since I live in a desert.
Mole


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## .je (Jan 15, 2019)

Hey folks! I know this is an ancient question (I am not a n00b, just pretending), what do you make of this (cheap) relic?









It's the same-ish price as that Sorfin SC31B. How do those compare?

Thanks for your opinions!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

That light is known as the SolarStorm X3, or a clone thereof. I would expect it to have cheap knockoff LEDs, a poor performing driver, and likely lousy heatsinking. Those lights have all gone way downhill from what they were. Beamwise (assuming a decent performing light) you'd be looking at a wide beam that's not really throwy. That SP31 on the other hand would be the total opposite, quite throwy with dimmer spill. 

-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

So the Sofirn SP33V3.0 on sale at AE right now includes shipping from the USA in only 1-5 business days!

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/In-...hargeable-Torch-Light-Cree/4000283536927.html

Can anyone here tell me whether it supports pass through charging? Other little Sofirns I've purchased, SC31B and SP40, only run on Low when connected to a USB source.

TIA!


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> So the Sofirn SP33V3.0 on sale at AE right now includes shipping from the USA in only 1-5 business days!


If you get one of those flashlights let us know how the shipping works. I just received mine a few days ago but it took about 3 weeks from the order date.



> Can anyone here tell me whether it supports pass through charging? Other little Sofirns I've purchased, SC31B and SP40, only run on Low when connected to a USB source.


I didn't see it mentioned anywhere in the instruction manual or any description I've run across. For what it's worth I plugged in one of my powerbanks and the mode button started to flash red (indicates charging) and continued flashing red when the light was turned on. Light functioned normally with the powerbank plugged in. Quick test seems to indicate it will work but I've not had any time to play around with this light so have no idea whether its actually charging or not.
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Thanks for the info, Mole!

Well as long as the SP33 runs normally when connected to USB and is flashing red that would indicate that it does indeed support pass through. 

Ordered a pair of the V3 with 25560 battery to replace the two little Sofirns mounted to my SXPC fork right now. Runtime should be decent the way they come but option to keep plugged into USB power banks while in use would guarantee over three hours each on High (if not Turbo.)

Watched some YouTube videos and seems the color is quite noticeably warmer than the V2. But of course the OP reflector does cause a definite tint shift. So am also ordering some of that d-c-fix self-adhesive “milky” film Garry linked to a while ago, should even out the beam. Know it will limit the throw as well but not an issue when combined with the KD BL2s head lamp (which I can’t use for close range on my recumbents because of glare off the bars and cable housings.)

So I take it yours shipped from China?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> So I take it yours shipped from China?


Yes it did, do they have stock warehoused in the US now?



> Ordered a pair of the V3 with 25560 battery to replace the two little Sofirns mounted to my SXPC fork right now. Runtime should be decent the way they come but option to keep plugged into USB power banks while in use would guarantee over three hours each on High (if not Turbo.)


Should be a pretty efficient light but definitely will need additional battery capacity to get 3 hrs. of runtime on high (1600 lumen rated). What are you planning on using as an external battery pack? I recently tried out a Magicshine usb converter that allowed me to use my regular bike battery packs to charge usb devices and it worked great. I know you have a few bike batteries so though you might be interested.
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah Mole on the AE Sofirn Store they offer two Shipping options, from either China or USA (NOT “Russian Federation“ on this one.) Says 1-5 day shipping but I gather that doesn’t include processing time, for which they say to allow several days. Still should be faster than speed-pack from China. 

I’ve got a couple unused TrustFire 6-cell power banks and plenty of spare cells/chargers, plus a Xiaomi three cell power bank so should be good to go as long as pass through charging actually works on the SP33. Picked up a couple Rhinowalk frame bags and one for the chopper bars that I can attach to its bottom for a short run of the USB cables to either side of the fork, should be all set. 

Now I can forget about trying to mount that monster JKK03 from Kaidomain!


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

andychrist said:


> Now I can forget about trying to mount that monster JKK03 from Kaidomain!


Dang, I wanted to see how you were going to pull that off. It would be nice to use one of my big throwers on rail trail rides, always fun to check out rivers and fields from a high point late in the evening. There's so much wildlife that comes out at night in urban areas and all you see is birds in the daytime.

Those mounts you use on the forks scare me, I just keep thinking what would happen if a light winds up in the spokes.


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

Bought a new light today, maybe this time I'll actually get it. Tried once before got a shipped notice, a fake tracking number and eventually a refund.

Not expecting much, its about six bucks American. Any cheaper and it would be made out of toilet paper tubes and hot melt glue.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32829622569.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.5d1f4c4dye37Xv


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

arc said:


> Dang, I wanted to see how you were going to pull that off. It would be nice to use one of my big throwers on rail trail rides,


Well you should be able to mount something like the JKK03 to your bars using methods previously discussed here. My big problem was finding a way to attach it to the fork at an angle rather than perpendicularly, the way mounting brackets are commonly designed.



arc said:


> Those mounts you use on the forks scare me, I just keep thinking what would happen if a light winds up in the spokes.


You're not half as scared as I am.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*Sofirn SP33V3.0 Hi mode runtime test*



andychrist said:


> Yeah Mole on the AE Sofirn Store they offer two Shipping options, from either China or USA (NOT "Russian Federation" on this one.) Says 1-5 day shipping but I gather that doesn't include processing time, for which they say to allow several days. Still should be faster than speed-pack from China.
> 
> I've got a couple unused TrustFire 6-cell power banks and plenty of spare cells/chargers, plus a Xiaomi three cell power bank so should be good to go as long as pass through charging actually works on the SP33. Picked up a couple Rhinowalk frame bags and one for the chopper bars that I can attach to its bottom for a short run of the USB cables to either side of the fork, should be all set.
> 
> Now I can forget about trying to mount that monster JKK03 from Kaidomain!




I was curious how the SP33V3 would perform in a runtime vs. output test since the driver it has does not regulate the output consistency like the SD05. Did pretty good compared with similar output bike lights (Cateye Volt 1600, Moon Meteor Storm Pro) that have field changeable batteries. Bike lights have a nicer beam pattern for the bars but if you were willing to put up with the weight of any of these lights on the helmet the SP33V3 will out throw any of the others on the chart. Thought you'd find this interesting!
Mole

Red line = Sofirn SP33V3
Fat Blue line = Moon Meteor Storm Pro






Left click on image to expand.


----------



## robbnj (Jul 19, 2013)

arc said:


> Bought a new light today, maybe this time I'll actually get it. Tried once before got a shipped notice, a fake tracking number and eventually a refund.
> 
> Not expecting much, its about six bucks American. Any cheaper and it would be made out of toilet paper tubes and hot melt glue.
> 
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32829622569.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.5d1f4c4dye37Xv


Sometimes they absolutely shock me with what they will ship for so little money.
I've gotten items WITH shipping cost included for less than the price to mail a letter to someone two states away.
You might get a surprise. You might get crap


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Wow Mole that is impressive. What battery was the Sofirn SP33V3 running?

Never occurred to me to use as a helmet light, ordered the pair for the fork as they should fit those Vonpri mounts I recently installed. Am aware that the beam isn’t perfect but that d-c-fix stick-on diffusing film should smooth it out. Don’t need so much throw from lights at that level, they’ll be my low beams. Keeping the KD BT2s 4000K on my noggin, that thing makes a terrific high beam, excellent color and weighs like nothing (four cell flat pack goes in my jacket flap pocket where I can barely feel it.)

Incidentally, the Rhinowalk handlebar bag and one for the frame came in today, they are stunning. Will be able to fit a few hefty powerbanks inside them along with tools and tubes; pics to come.

Oh and I did end up ordering a couple of those JKK03s after all.  Reason being, think I can attach them to my chopper bars pretty easily (just not to the fork) and the 46mm head diameter seems like it will support the 39mm Action-LED Wide Angle Lens. Oriented horizontally it creates a nice long narrow beam and eliminates the rings generated by the XHP70.2 inside its reflector. Admittedly the set up I envision won’t be compatible with the fairing that’s about to go on the front of my bike, but that’s just for winter use anyway. Probably be summer before I receive the flashlights from Kaidomain.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> Wow Mole that is impressive. What battery was the Sofirn SP33V3 running?
> 
> Never occurred to me to use as a helmet light


I used the Sofirn 5500mAh 26650 that came with my light. Considering weight and mounting options I don't think many would be willing to deal with the SP33V3 as a helmet light. I got my SD05 with 21700 set up to be fairly comfortable mounting it with a thin foam pad and a buckled strap directly to the helmet surface so the SP33V3 should work similarly with a 18650 installed but still a pita to set up.
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Mole, is it possible to unscrew the bezel from the SP33V3? Interested to see whether it would fit one of those 39mm wide angle diffusers.

Also, I assume the chart you posted was of all three lights running on High (not Turbo)?

Interested to see how the Sofirn does on the Medium setting.

One of the YouTube videos mentioned that V3 is warmer than previous, any idea on true color temperature?

Thanks again!


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> Mole, is it possible to unscrew the bezel from the SP33V3? Interested to see whether it would fit one of those 39mm wide angle diffusers.
> 
> Also, I assume the chart you posted was of all three lights running on High (not Turbo)?
> 
> ...


Not sure, I couldn't get the bezel to unscrew by hand. I'll have to look around to see if I can find an appropriately sized strap wrench and give that a try. 39mm lens is too large and wouldn't fit without some modification.

Light & Motion measurements (Lumina/Cateye) were done in the highest mode and the SP33V3 and Moon light were done in their high mode (1600 - 1700 claimed lumens). Measuring how the SP33V3 works in the med. mode would take over 8 hrs. to do so I think I'll pass on that test. Haven't actually got to ride with this light yet but anticipate the 450 lumen med. mode will be quite useful.

Tint looks pretty much like the 6500K it's rated at to me.
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

D’oh, I was confusing the measurements of the SP33 with those of the JKK03 from Kaidomain — that one has a 46mm bezel so am guessing it’s the right size for the Action-LED lens. Yeah those Sofirns come screwed tight, I couldn’t get the bezels off either my SP40 or SC31B with a reverse ring pliers. Fortunately that sticky diffusion film Garry mentioned should adhere to the exterior and remain fairly weather proof.

Figure that under the Sofirn’s ramping mode it should be easy to eek out two to three hours runtime around 1000 lumen, though of course it will be tricky to set that level even approximately by eye. 

Am surprised the color temperature is so cool, many reviewers mentioned how much warmer the current model seemed than the V2, huh. Couldn’t find the rating anywhere so took their word for it; clips and pics led me to believe it was NW but with tint shift from the reflector. Wonder whether it would be possible to swap out the emitter without having first to remove that obstinate bezel. Oh well, will wait till I get them in my hot little hands before rushing to judgement (yeah right.)

Thanks again Mole!


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

Hey Andy, I was looking into the big flashlight mount idea. What do you think of mounting a double gopro bracket to one of Vancbikers bar mounts and using two gopro flashlight mounts?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32752407038.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dzi3LFg

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...142407.0&pvid=516865f0-c531-4987-a000-da56742


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Not sure I can picture exactly what you have in mind, arc, but if it depends on those rectangular rubber bands make sure first that they’re long enough for your thrower. Because they look kinda short to me and the dimensions listed for that item under Specifications: width 300-400mm, are obviously ridiculous.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Hey arc, look what I just ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GR5QQ4A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAHVI01/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're rated from 33 to 220 lbs so should be no problem on the bars with any flashlight that fits, up to 52mm diameter. Smaller plastic clamps will be kinda loose for my own 22mm chopper bars so plan to shim those with spent tire tubbing. The 2" black anodized clamps might also be ever so slightly large for the 46mm JKK03 flashlights I have on order from Kaidomain, in which case a layer or two of aluminum tape wound around their COG should easily suffice.

And of course the wing nuts won't fit once the plastic and alloy clamps are paired together, so also ordered a set of 10mm SS Nylock nuts, M10x 25mm SS Allen socket caps and 10mm SS washers to go with. Finished product will couple similarly to these (but look much cooler):

https://www.amazon.com/Swivel-Coupl...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XNZ2CA7Z9YN9KERM4ZQS

Cost me around $75 for the five complete sets of hardware, but only need a couple to mount the two KD flashlights. So will have three left over in case you or anybody else here is interested; willing to sell without any markup. That's just $15 per dual clamp mount, plus [economy] shipping [Contiguous USA only] of course.

Now don't all answer at once!


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

*P.S: All Metal Mounting Option*

https://www.thelightsource.com/products/mega-gridlock-11

https://www.walmart.com/ip/The-Light-Source-Mega-Gridlock-Black-Anodized/305860026 Best price I've seen and free shipping to boot.

These could also work as flashlight mounts on straight bars with the appropriate shims. Might be a good choice where QR is not desired - after all, batteries can be removed pretty easily from any flashlight merely by unscrewing the end cap. In any event probably indestructible.

Only little drawback, unlike the dual clamp system posted above, the Mega-Gridlock divides pressure between the two perpendicular tubes - whereas one would want the flashlight to be gripped less tightly than the handlebars. Though some nice black foam padding could prevent any damage to the light body while keeping the entire assembly from slipping/rocking.

Stated weight of 15oz seems to me like it must be incorrect if the units are indeed anodized and therefore aluminum alloy.

Don't think I'm gonna try this one out myself because I want to mount my flashlights as close to the ends of my chopper bars' horizontal support and these things are relatively wide, would center the lights too far inward. Of course I'm tempted though.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> Am surprised the color temperature is so cool, many reviewers mentioned how much warmer the current model seemed than the V2, huh. Couldn't find the rating anywhere so took their word for it; clips and pics led me to believe it was NW but with tint shift from the reflector. Wonder whether it would be possible to swap out the emitter without having first to remove that obstinate bezel. Oh well, will wait till I get them in my hot little hands before rushing to judgement (yeah right.)


I was a bit surprised too because it is noticeably cooler than my SD05. I'm pretty sure Lostplaces switched to a warmer emitter in his SD05 so finding out how he did it would probably provide us with an answer on how to get into the SP33V3. I still need to go get an adjustable strap wrench and give that a try too.



> Figure that under the Sofirn's ramping mode it should be easy to eek out two to three hours runtime around 1000 lumen, though of course it will be tricky to set that level even approximately by eye.


I did my first ride using the SP33V3 tonight. 31 miles on a fat bike was no problem on a single battery. Most of the ride I just had it in the ramping mode set to what I was most comfortable with (something below the 1600 lumen high mode). I did try the preset program using the 450 and 1600 lumen modes but liked the ramping mode better (tonight anyway). Probably had the lights on close to 3 hrs. so good enough for my normal after dinner rides. A+ on the mode button functionality and feel, makes for a enjoyable light to use.
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Mole, when entering Ramping mode on the SP33V3, does it start out from the last level it was on in Group 1 or some other default such as High/1600LM?

Thanks!


----------



## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> Mole, when entering Ramping mode on the SP33V3, does it start out from the last level it was on in Group 1 or some other default such as High/1600LM?
> 
> Thanks!


Last level it was on. Memory function includes both Group setting and output level at startup.
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

MRMOLE said:


> I was a bit surprised too because it is noticeably cooler than my SD05. I'm pretty sure Lostplaces switched to a warmer emitter in his SD05 so finding out how he did it would probably provide us with an answer on how to get into the SP33V3. I still need to go get an adjustable strap wrench and give that a try too.


Well the SP33V3 is using CREE's new 3V XHP50.2 emitter, and apparently there's nothing else comparable on the market now in any warmer tint. So guess the issue is kinda moot for now. 

Fortunately the color doesn't look bad at all from the pics and videos I've seen but then that might just have been a result of auto color balance.

Anyway if the bezel can be removed so that the reflector pops out, a faint coat of egg-yoke yellow tinted lacquer can be sprayed over the OP to make the light appear warmer (at the expense of some brightness.)


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> Well the SP33V3 is using CREE's new 3V XHP50.2 emitter, and apparently there's nothing else comparable on the market now in any warmer tint. So guess the issue is kinda moot for now.
> 
> Fortunately the color doesn't look bad at all from the pics and videos I've seen but then that might just have been a result of auto color balance.
> 
> Anyway if the bezel can be removed so that the reflector pops out, a faint coat of egg-yoke yellow tinted lacquer can be sprayed over the OP to make the light appear warmer (at the expense of some brightness.)


I'm not that sensitive to light tint as long as my lights are a fairly close match when using more than one. Off road I do prefer the warmer tints but last nights ride was mostly pavement and the little bit of dirt was very dark as its been fairly wet here for the last few weeks. For those conditions the tint on the SP33V3 seemed fine (ramping mode may have helped). I also had the Action wide angle lens cover on which tends to smooth out the beam coverage and that definitely helps. I sent a PM to Lostplaces to see if he has any suggestions on bezel removal but haven't got a response yet. My old tube retention method works fine but would like to eventually be able to mount the lens cover under the bezel.
Mole


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Mole, I looked through the SP33 review threads over on BLF and nobody mentioned the threads being glued. They did however mention the bezels being on very tight, so maybe you do just need that strap wrench. 

-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah apparently the threads are not glued on the SP33V3 but someone there did mention that they had been on the V2. 

So now for another really stupid question: Since there are currently no alternatives to the 3V XHP50.2 6500K, what would happen were one to swap in a warmer 6V emitter — would the lamp simply fail or might it just put out half the lumens and deliver twice the runtime? If the latter is the case that’d be an ideal solution for me, because I ordered two of these suckers to use as running lights on my bike’s fork and don’t need a lot of output there. 

Thanks Garry!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

andychrist said:


> Yeah apparently the threads are not glued on the SP33V3 but someone there did mention that they had been on the V2.


Ah, so you did find that somewhere? I only quickly perused the review threads (no pun intended), but if did find someone stating that I'd say they could very well be glued. It'll just take a little more effort and maybe a little heat on the threads to get past that glue.



andychrist said:


> So now for another really stupid question: Since there are currently no alternatives to the 3V XHP50.2 6500K, what would happen were one to swap in a warmer 6V emitter - would the lamp simply fail or might it just put out half the lumens and deliver twice the runtime? If the latter is the case that'd be an ideal solution for me, because I ordered two of these suckers to use as running lights on my bike's fork and don't need a lot of output there.
> 
> Thanks Garry!


Well you're beyond my knowledge point now. The 3V XHP50.2 came out after I stopped keeping up with the current tech and availability. From what I understand, this V3 model does NOT use a boost driver, so I'd expect a 6V emitter to either not light at all, or be very very dim - either way it's not an realistic option without swapping a driver.

-Garry


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

andychrist said:


> Yeah apparently the threads are not glued on the SP33V3 but someone there did mention that they had been on the V2.
> 
> So now for another really stupid question: Since there are currently no alternatives to the 3V XHP50.2 6500K, what would happen were one to swap in a warmer 6V emitter - would the lamp simply fail or might it just put out half the lumens and deliver twice the runtime? If the latter is the case that'd be an ideal solution for me, because I ordered two of these suckers to use as running lights on my bike's fork and don't need a lot of output there.
> 
> Thanks Garry!


Probably easiest just to put an XML2 on there, its the same solder footprint. Tighter beam, probably twenty-five percent less efficient and a lot less output if any of that matters to you.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> So now for another really stupid question: Since there are currently no alternatives to the 3V XHP50.2 6500K


Don't kn ow whether to believe this Banggood site but seems to indicate you can get this Astrolux EC01 with the XHP50.2B-3V emitter in either 5000K or 6000-6500K???
Mole


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

MRMOLE said:


> Don't kn ow whether to believe this Banggood site but seems to indicate you can get this Astrolux EC01 with the XHP50.2B-3V emitter in either 5000K or 6000-6500K???


$26.32 at aliexpress

https://tinyurl.com/qmrkbs8


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

arc said:


> Probably easiest just to put an XML2 on there, its the same solder footprint. Tighter beam, probably twenty-five percent less efficient and a lot less output if any of that matters to you.


Are there XM L2 emitters available in 3V? Because I couldn't find any 3V emitters for sale at all.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

MRMOLE said:


> For those conditions the tint on the SP33V3 seemed fine (ramping mode may have helped). I also had the Action wide angle lens cover on which tends to smooth out the beam coverage and that definitely helps. I sent a PM to Lostplaces to see if he has any suggestions on bezel removal but haven't got a response yet.
> Mole


hi i dont have the SP33V3 so i dont know if they make again glue on it, but on the SD05 Sofirn make a point of glue on the brezel.
for this problem i have somethink like this at home.
ist a hard ruberband , but any type of grippy rubber material and a little force will break the glued point.:thumbsup:

there is norhing that can be destroid.

and yes the V3 uses same FET driver with an 3V XHP50 like the EC01 what i have 2 times at home.
thr only differenz between the SP33V3 and the EC01"same size like the SD05" ist the battery option and software on the light.

the V2 of this light have used the 6V XHP50 and a boost driver like the SD05 is doing it.

EC01=21700+18650= more compact.
SP33V3=26650+21700+18650= more bulky.

EC01= full Anduril software
SP33V3= by sofirme reduzed software to some parts from anduril

The EC01 is sold in 6000K and 5000K in real world there are a ~6400K LED =1A bin
and the other is a ~5800K bin=2A bin

a real 5000K is a 3A bin and its the lowest bin what you can by in 3V XHP50.

XHP50 have mainly the problem that cree puts to much phospor on the LEDs that results in the ugly tint shift, you see it in the corona from the beam.

Spot= white
corona= yellowish/greenish
spill= whiteblueish

looks very ugly

only below 5000K XHP50 or 70 LEDs have a nice coloration for the Eyes.
Example here.

there are some solution for it:
1. change the LED for example SST-40 in 5000K looks great, but the downside, the light will only run up to ~2500 lumen max!!!

2. cut shave the dome from the LED and cut the to much phospor from the sides away.

on that way you get with the XHP50 LED a near clean similar from spot to spill whitout yellow/green corona!!!!

i have do it on the EC01 same like the SD05!

on the SD05 you can very easy change the LED to a good looking one without cutting.

i have put into my 2x SD05 this one in on a 20mm board.

its very easy, unscrew the bezel with some force.
remove the reflector.
unsolder the 2 wires.
put in the new board, solder the 2 wires again on.

srew the light together and have fun!!!!
~5-10 minutes of time it needs.

the older batch of the SD05 have a loosy ring and the board srewed with 2 screws on it, the 2 batch of SD05 have have no screews on the board and the magnetic ring runs harder.
cos people find thering to easy to move sofirm makes for the new batch a tighter harder moveable ring.....

here some screens and the small brother of the SD05 and EC01 vs SD05 Reflector that is near similar.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Too bad the only place to get a 3V emitter under 6500K is in an Astrolux. 

On CREE’s own data sheet they list the 3V XHP50.2 in various bins down to 3000 or 4000K but guess they are not available retail any place yet, if even actually in production.

On a brighter note, the current JKK03 XHP70.2 is available in a complete range of color temperatures and features Constant Current. Doesn’t support ramping but the mode levels make good sense for a bike light.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

@lostplaces: So would that 6/12V CREE XHP50.2 J2 40G NEUTRAL WHITE 4000K CRI80 LED EMITTER work okay in the SP33V3.0, other than falling short of max lumens? TIA


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

lostplaces said:


> hi i dont have the SP33V3 so i dont know if they make again glue on it, but on the SD05 Sofirn make a point of glue on the brezel.
> for this problem i have somethink like this at home.
> ist a hard ruberband , but any type of grippy rubber material and a little force will break the glued point.:thumbsup:
> 
> there is norhing that can be destroid.


Thanks! Will pick up one of those tools and give it a try.



> and yes the V3 uses same FET driver with an 3V XHP50 like the EC01 what i have 2 times at home.


Looking at an output chart in a ZeroAir review of the EC01 I noticed a greater initial lumen output drop than I've seen with other similar lights and was wondering if you think heat was the case of the excessive drop or maybe if the thermal threshold were to be reprogrammed to a higher level that the degrading output would bottom out at a higher level?

Do you have the Astrolux HL01 yet?
Mole


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

andychrist said:


> Are there XM L2 emitters available in 3V? Because I couldn't find any 3V emitters for sale at all.


The Vf of an XML-2 is about 2.7V-3.3V. It changes depending on how much current you are running. More current = higher Vf.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Too bad XM-L2 is only half as efficient as XHP. I’d ordered the Sofirns SP33V3 because they can supposedly run over two hours on High from a single 26650 5500mAh cell.


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## TTUB (Nov 9, 2010)

I just bought a MagicShine MJ900 for my wife. She wanted a helmet light. Magic Shine doesn't call it a helmet light, but it looked viable so I took a shot in the dark (pun intended).
Turns out it's a perfect helmet light. The head unit is very small and light-weight. 1200 lumen output seems to be accurate... comparing to a 900 lumen light it is definitely brighter.

$59 on Amazon. Quality looks solid and with Magic Shine, accessories, batteries, cables..are readily available.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> Too bad XM-L2 is only half as efficient as XHP. I'd ordered the Sofirns SP33V3 because they can supposedly run over two hours on High from a single 26650 5500mAh cell.


Hopefully you won't mind the tint when you get a chance to try it. The elliptical lens cover helped smooth out the beam coverage + being able to adjust the light to exactly the intensity I was most happy with I think helped too but I was running the light by itself which I don't think you'll be doing. Strap wrench worked like a charm!!!
Mole


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

TTUB said:


> I just bought a MagicShine MJ900.......
> ......... 1200 lumen output seems to be accurate... comparing to a 900 lumen light it is definitely brighter....


MJ900 is a nice light, but the 1200 lumen is greatly exaggerated. 700 would be closer to the real output. The great majority of Chinese lights have inflated lumen numbers for marketing reasons.


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

andychrist said:


> Too bad XM-L2 is only half as efficient as XHP. I'd ordered the Sofirns SP33V3 because they can supposedly run over two hours on High from a single 26650 5500mAh cell.


It can't hurt to try, you probably have a light you can steal one out of to try. The xml will be down a couple hundred lumens but has a much better hotspot than the xhp50 and a lot less of the cree rainbow. You might like it better.

I believe the V2 version had a boost driver and six volt xhp50. Sofirn lists a V2 replacement driver, maybe email them and ask them if it will fit.

Sofirn is quite often a little funky on driver and mcpcb sizes. If a normal size mcpcb is used an xhp70 may work using this optic from Kaidomain. Its about 28mm if you pop it out of the holder, I'd love to find a host to fit it.

http://kaidomain.com/S028407-32_5mm-x-18mmm-5-Degree-PMMA-Optical-Lens-for-CREE-XHP70?search=S028407

Justed checked, I'm not sure which version driver they are listing. Probably best to ask them if it is the 6v version.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

MRMOLE said:


> Hopefully you won't mind the tint when you get a chance to try it. The elliptical lens cover helped smooth out the beam coverage + being able to adjust the light to exactly the intensity I was most happy with I think helped too but I was running the light by itself which I don't think you'll be doing. Strap wrench worked like a charm!!!
> Mole


Actually the beam shots on YouTube and various other reviews didn't look bad to me at all, which is why I ordered two of the SP33V3.

And while that wide angle lens won't fit inside it without some fine lathing, the Milky d-c-fix film ought to work fine, have a roll of that on order.

Just wonder how well the CW tint will blend with my other lights. Hoping that enough overlap will disguise the differences. Like for instance that last ridiculously warm, rusty looking BT40S that was on the market combines beautifully with the beams from my 5000K KD bike lamps; net effect is a natural looking rich white light better than I get from any single other lamp alone. So keeping my fingers crossed.



arc said:


> It can't hurt to try, you probably have a light you can steal one out of to try. The xml will be down a couple hundred lumens but has a much better hotspot than the xhp50 and a lot less of the cree rainbow. You might like it better.
> 
> I believe the V2 version had a boost driver and six volt xhp50. Sofirn lists a V2 replacement driver, maybe email them and ask them if it will fit.
> 
> ...


Well my soldering skills lack the finesse needed to swap drivers anyway. Emitters OTOH are a cinch, there's always enough room on a star to tolerate some sloppiness. Am sure to have a couple extra NW XM-L2 still unused sitting around here somewhere.

Yikes, that optical lens from KD has a 5º beam! Dunno whether I'd have any use for that but if it fits inside the SP33 would be mighty tempted to try it out, if only to satisfy my curiosity.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

andychrist said:


> @lostplaces: So would that 6/12V CREE XHP50.2 J2 40G NEUTRAL WHITE 4000K CRI80 LED EMITTER work okay in the SP33V3.0, other than falling short of max lumens? TIA


No, the linked LED is only for ~6 Volt drivers!!!
on a FET 3V driver the LED get to low Voltage!!!
here you can see the voltage range from a 6 Volt XHP50.
it begin at ~ *5,5 Volts up to ~ 7 Volts*.

The LED works in the SP33*V2*= boost driver =~5-12 Volt
SP33*V3*=3 Volt FET driver= 2,5-4,2 Volt LED range



MRMOLE said:


> Looking at an output chart in a ZeroAir review of the EC01 I noticed a greater initial lumen output drop than I've seen with other similar lights and was wondering if you think heat was the case of the excessive drop or maybe if the thermal threshold
> Mole


ZeroAir test the light out of the box= Anduril is mostly horrible !!!

on any Anduril Software based light are first steps, calibrate the room temperatur and next step is to set where you want that the temp regulation kicks in!!!

Out of the box my EC01 for example have mesured my room temperatur at home 22°C with 37°C and the temp regulatin was set to ~50°C so *only ~15°C space for regulation!!!
*

calibrate the sensor to 22°C and set it up for example to 70°C =50°C space up to regulation point.:thumbsup:

next importand part for any fully temp regutated light is the airflow, more airflow an cooler conditions= horrible outputs!!!

*much over 2000 Lumen constant output is for the EC01 on a bike mounted nothing.*
~3000 Lumen i think will be not possible it says ~25 Watt of Heat for the body and i think the airflow on the bike will not cool it enought.

SP33*V3* is preset against new out of the box full anduril lights.

and my HL01 with XP-L HI is on the way, the SST-20 version is not shipped out the have problems to get the SST-20 LEDs again.....

the HL01 needs same like any other Anduril light, first calibrate it.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

*Nitecore Diffuser for 34mm Flashlight*

Mole, this diffuser should fit over your SP33V3 in case you don't want to shave down your Wide Angle Lens to fit inside it.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1018883-REG/nitecore_nfd34_diffuser_for_diameter_34mm.html


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> Mole, this diffuser should fit over your SP33V3 in case you don't want to shave down your Wide Angle Lens to fit inside it.
> 
> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1018883-REG/nitecore_nfd34_diffuser_for_diameter_34mm.html


Thanks, I really like the beam pattern on the Action-LED-Lights wide angle lens cover so plan on taking the time to file it down.
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

I don’t blame you Mole, that Action-LED WAL makes a sweet beam. 

Trouble is that if you file away the edges of the wide angle lens you lose the flat rim that seals to the bezel via O-ring. The channels in the rest of the disk will leave gaps that you’d have to seal with silicone (messy) unless you also file down a new rim. Too bad Dremel lathe solutions are so involved and expensive.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

andychrist said:


> Mole, this diffuser should fit over your SP33V3 in case you don't want to shave down your Wide Angle Lens to fit inside it.
> 
> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1018883-REG/nitecore_nfd34_diffuser_for_diameter_34mm.html


There is no need to buy this bulky ugly stuff.

to filter the beam to diffus or smooth out rings discolorations *films* are the way to go.

i construction markets you can take samples for free from *D-C fix *self sticking films.
for the first trys the *milky/sand*, *Opal* or *frosted* are good trys.
i have play alot with them over the years.

here for the beginning.
D-c-fix diffusion film | BudgetLightForum.com
https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/verschiedene-lampen-mit-versch-diffusoren-folien.25843/
https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/diffusorfolien-test.59245/

with google search pictures you will find alot other examples.

if you will have a heavy full smooth beam like the junk from nitecore, or exactly color fitratuions take lee films.
Wide Range of Diffusion Filters in a Range of Densities

my lee 216 outperformes easy this nitecore plastik or glas stuff....higher light transmission!!!!!
https://www.thomann.de/at/lee_farbf...MI8_SK7cnn5gIVh8x3Ch1vPQP1EAQYBCABEgKURPD_BwE

*overall all diffusors eat alot of light"lumens!!"*

the best film on the market i never get into my hands by myself.:madmax:

i have over the years play alot with this stuff.
*forget this ready to use put on stuff* all of them are junk i have over the years compare alot of them against ~100 of films!!!!

peace of D-C fix the nitecore diffusor and a peace of the Lee 216 from my endless filtercollection.








i highly recommend for first trys D-C fix self sticking stuff coz small samples" for ~20 lights ea peace" are in my country for free.:thumbsup:


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yes garrybunk posted about d-c-fix a while ago and I have a roll of it on order myself. Trouble is that it scatters light in all directions, whereas the Wide Angle Lens produces an elliptical beam that can be oriented either vertically or horizontally. You can even install two of them perpendicularly back to back and that will result in a very even square beam.

https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/diffuser-lense-1122631.html#post14456693

https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/diffuser-lense-1122631.html#post14463201

https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/diffuser-lense-1122631.html#post14463945

I also made my own diffuser from non-stick plastic fabric, which appears to be the same as that "best film on the market i never get into my hands by myself" you mentioned.

https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/diffuser-lense-1122631.html#post14464697

https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/diffuser-lense-1122631.html#post14464993


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## TTUB (Nov 9, 2010)

Vancbiker said:


> MJ900 is a nice light, but the 1200 lumen is greatly exaggerated. 700 would be closer to the real output. The great majority of Chinese lights have inflated lumen numbers for marketing reasons.


I did a little more digging and you are correct... the 900L light I was comparing it to turns out to be more like 700L. Understanding that, I'd say the MJ900 is putting out atleast 900L... but as you note, probably not 1200L.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> I don't blame you Mole, that Action-LED WAL makes a sweet beam.
> 
> Trouble is that if you file away the edges of the wide angle lens you lose the flat rim that seals to the bezel via O-ring. The channels in the rest of the disk will leave gaps that you'd have to seal with silicone (messy) unless you also file down a new rim. Too bad Dremel lathe solutions are so involved and expensive.


That's a good point to consider if you live in a wet climate. For me living in a desert it's not such a big deal but the SP33V3 does come with o-rings on each side of the cover lens so you still have seal with 2 flat surfaces on at least 1 side of the Action lens. I've not had good luck using a Dremel with this type of lens material as its prone to melting so just prefer to use a hand file.
Mole


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

andychrist said:


> Yikes, that optical lens from KD has a 5º beam! Dunno whether I'd have any use for that but if it fits inside the SP33 would be mighty tempted to try it out, if only to satisfy my curiosity.


It's not a 5º beam with the xhp70, there's also a wider angle one. I have an xhp70 C8 with an orange peel reflector that has too narrow of a beam for bar use. Removing the reflector and holding the a optic over the led produces a nice looking beam but its hard to say how much my fingers are influencing things. The mcpcb is not bolted down on this light and depends on the reflector to press it into the pill for heat transfer so I cant mess around too much.

I found a nice emitter at Digikey, much less of the cree rainbow than the xhp50 and better efficiency as well. Kaidomain's H1-A boost driver is really efficient driver in the middle modes, there's a schematic and test reports on the driver at BLF. It could be a great single cell light.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

arc said:


> I found a nice emitter at Digikey, much less of the cree rainbow than the xhp50 and better efficiency as well.


What is this emitter you speak ok?

-Garry


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> What is this emitter you speak ok?
> 
> -Garry


Its an 4000k xhp70 P2 with a nice tint, the ones I got from Kaidomain a long time ago seemed to have a lot of yellow and brown in them.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Mole, the vendor's website confirms that the SP33V3 supports pass through charging. By any chance could you tell me whether it can also be run in all modes directly from an external USB source without a battery inside? TIA

BTW mine are finally scheduled for delivery, this coming Friday woo hoo. Apparently info on their [super economy?] shipping "4PX US Ground big packet" never updates but since the parcel was transferred to FedEx (SmartPost) yesterday the tracking number works there.

Oh and they're back in stock at the Sofirn USA warehouse for $32.83 with a $1 off coupon for orders of $19 or more, $6 off $65 and over. So buy two for only $59.66 + PP International fee + state tax.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000283536927.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dEXg7ul

Also both the d-c-fix Milky and Rosco filters came in so will be able to test them on the Sofirns once they get here. Mean time working on another coupla reflecting shields.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> Mole, the vendor's website confirms that the SP33V3 supports pass through charging. By any chance could you tell me whether it can also be run in all modes directly from an external USB source without a battery inside? TIA


Well it kind of works. I tried it without the battery in the preset program and all three levels worked but were *considerably dimmer*. Will get some measurements when I get a chance.
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Thanks Mole, that’s really all I needed to know for now. Will see for myself once I get my hot little hands on them.


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## MrGT (Aug 19, 2005)

Seems like a sweet light even if only used as a flashlight!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Well last night I went out for a ride and spent some time getting some beamshot photos and some ride videos. I was mainly evaluating the Sofirn SD05 as a bar light. For beamshot comparisons I compared the SD05, the Sofirn SP40, Nitefighter/Revtronic BT21, Nitefighter/Revtronic BT40S, and my custom HD-016. I'll have to upload everything and compare later (I'll probably create a separate SD05 thread rather than clutter up this thread).

Some quick thoughts:

1) The SD05 is rather impressive being a single cell single emitter flashlight, but the output didn't look like +/-2,500 lumens to me (though reviewing pics now, I can see a huge difference compared to my other lights).

2) Tint of the SD05 was much cooler than I prefer, but useable.

3) Was wishing the SD05 had a wider flood beam for bar use.

4) Found myself using the SD05 on high for all descents. I was waiting for it to kick down to medium level but I never noticed it drop at all. This has me puzzled. (I'm wondering if perhaps I ended up with a v2 SD05 instead of the v3.)

5) The SD05 with a 21700 inside is quite heavy, so I agree it's not well suited for helmet mounting.

6) This clamp worked great for holding the SD05 on my 35mm bars. Good and sturdy, didn't move at all while riding.

7) The SP40 is impressive on Turbo and okay on High, but Medium and Low really aren't useable while riding. Of course Turbo has the timed stepdown (which I didn't test). I did NOT ride with the SP40 as I didn't have time to get it mounted to my helmet.

8) I was impressed with the remaining capacity of my 21700 cell after the ride (voltage at 4.01v) considering I ran high quite a bit. I didn't use the light the entire ride, but I thought I ran high enough to really drain the cell down well below 4v.

Still anxiously awaiting my HL-01 headlamp! Looking forward to trying out a light that isn't using a timed step-down, but has thermal monitoring.

-Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Well I guess I could post a couple pics now. Note that my white balance isn't that accurate and that the tint of the lights appear slightly cooler than they really are. (My camera's "Daylight" white balance setting was causing the lights to appear too warm.) Also, my SP40 is the 4000k tint version.

SD05 on High:








SD05 on Med: 








SP40 on Turbo:








SP40 on High:








-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> 1) The SD05 is rather impressive being a single cell single emitter flashlight, but the output didn't look like +/-2,500 lumens to me (though reviewing pics now, I can see a huge difference compared to my other lights).
> -Garry


I don't use the Hi mode on my SD05 but I was curious how it performed and quite surprised when measuring the timed step down (ramp down is more accurate). While my light made every bit of its claimed 2550 lumen at startup it quickly ramped down losing around 500 lumens every min. and leveled off just under 1000 lumens. Very little time was output even close to its max. which explains your riding impression of being less powerful than its claimed output. Thermally regulated 1000ish lumen med. modes output curve is totally flat for its 2.5 hr. duration though.



> Still anxiously awaiting my HL-01 headlamp! Looking forward to trying out a light that isn't using a timed step-down, but has thermal monitoring.


Me too!!!

Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Garry, those shots sure look impressive. But what do you mean the beam of the SD05 is too narrow for a bar light, does it not come close enough to the front wheel? If that's the case, have you considered applying some of that d-c-fix Milky diffusion film, or do you think that would spread the beam out too much? If that's the problem, I might have a solution to both that and the too cool tint. Check out my DIY Reflector Shields:

https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-...-clones-flashlights-1125295.html#post14504429

KD Magicshine MJ808 Clone DIY Reflector Shield Holographic Orange Mylar by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Adding the metallic orange reflector warms the tint and redirects light from the diffuser back down so that it is not wasted in the sky or too far across the trail, loosing all its throw. Astonishing how well it worked on the CW MJ808 clone Kaidomain gifted me. Along with my home-brewed diffuser, just about eliminated the blue and subdued the hot spot for a smooth, efficient beam.

Pardon the funky look of this prototype, think I've figured out a way now to produce them wrinkle-free. If you'd like I can send you one free of charge that should fit your SD05, along with some of that Milky film if you don't have any. Is your mailing address still the same?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

andychrist said:


> Garry, those shots sure look impressive. But what do you mean the beam of the SD05 is too narrow for a bar light, does it not come close enough to the front wheel?


I guess I'm spoiled by my wide floody lights. This light of course produces a round beam that is dimmer away from the central hotspot. So it lights up close to the front tire, but only at the tire and not so close to the sides. Riding with just a round spot beam bar light produces what I refer to as the "wandering/bouncing ball of light" as you're steering. So if I'm heading one direction, but the trail is curving/turning to the other direction, then I don't have enough bar light illuminating around that curve. Of course the situation is better with a helmet light, but my helmet light is generally directed way out ahead and not up close. This will all become apparent in the videos I hope to eventually post.



andychrist said:


> Is your mailing address still the same?


Why yes it is. I do have some DC Fix leftover (somewhere), as well as a supply of "Glad Press-N-Seal".

-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> Of course the situation is better with a helmet light, but my helmet light is generally directed way out ahead and not up close.
> -Garry


Yeah that's the same thing with my recumbent, in spades. Bars are so far out ahead of me I can't use a helmet light/headlamp up close, there'd be too much glare inside the cockpit.

With the SD05 on your bars some diffusion film should take care of the narrow spot well enough to provide peripheral illumination, and along with my handy dandy reflector shield won't waste the remainder of the light where it isn't needed. Another part of the solution might be to attach either that light or something more floody to your bike's head tube, where it won't rotate with steering. I know they do make mounts for this but have to admit the one from China I purchased on eBay for cheap did not last, the plastic crumbled after a while. There might be alternatives somewhere in alloy, though haven't come across any recently. Perhaps someone else here might know where to find them? Anyway, really appreciate having my BT40S mounted in a fixed position on my SWB 'bent, addresses that "wandering/bouncing ball of light" you mentioned. Will have to fabricate a long reaching mount to do the same thing on my newer LWB recumbent.

Will take the liberty then of sending you a Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield for your SD05, Garry. That way you can test out the combo for me before I pull the trigger on that Sofirn for myself. 

EDIT: Ooh, just saw where the SD05 has exactly the same head diameter as the SP33V3. So when mine get here tomorrow I can fashion reflectors directly from them that will fit both our models. Hey Mole, I can make one for your flashlight too if you'd like.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

You're very generous Andy. Sure, I'll test out the reflector shield. I just don't know how many more riding days I'll have in my area before we're under snow for months. I don't like doing light comparisons / beamshots will lots of snow around.

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> Hey Mole, I can make one for your flashlight too if you'd like.


Thank You!!! I appreciate the offer but I think I good for the moment with the beam transformation I get using the Action-LED-Lights wide angle lens cover. It fixes the issues I have with the beam pattern (smooths coverage out, widens main beam, and adds needed light around the front wheel). Fingers crossed you get your lights tomorrow.
Mole

Before ......................................................................................................After transformation.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> I don't like doing light comparisons / beamshots will lots of snow around.
> 
> -Garry


Moi non plus. But ya godda admit, snow on the ground sure makes the beams looks brighter! 



MRMOLE said:


> ... the beam transformation I get using the Action-LED-Lights wide angle lens cover. It fixes the issues I have with the beam pattern (smooths coverage out, widens main beam, and adds needed light around the front wheel).
> Mole


Yeah Mole those lenses sure work great on your Sofirn SP33V3.0 -have you filed them down yet to fit inside the bezel? Color isn't bad at all either, a big step up from the V2 with the obvious blue tint.

Oh well, one less guinea pig for me.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Hey, from their specs alone, I was able to cobble together some new reflectors that should fit the Sofirns.

New Improved Reversible Reflector Shields for CW or NW/WW Fits 37.5mm Diameter Bezel (Sofirn SP33V.3 &SD05) by andyXchrist, on Flickr

They're reversible so can be used either to neutralize bluish tints from CW lights or simply to improve the beam on NW/WW lights that need no color correction. Attach to bezel with heat conducting aluminum tape.

New Improved Reversible Reflector Shields for CW or NW/WW Fits 37.5mm Diameter Bezel (Sofirn SP33V.3 &SD05) by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Will be updating with versions for other lamps and perhaps beam shots if the weather permits over on the DIY forum:

https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-d...l#post14509037


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

MRMOLE said:


> the beam transformation I get using the Action-LED-Lights wide angle lens cover. It fixes the issues I have with the beam pattern (smooths coverage out, widens main beam, and adds needed light around the front wheel).
> Mole
> 
> View attachment 1304439


But Mole, why settle for that ho-hum elliptical beam when you could be rocking this awesome Spectral Squid™?

"Spectral Squid" Magicshine MJ808 Clone CREE XM-L2 NW Action-Led Wide Angle Lens Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr

C'mon, you know you want it.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

*Sofirns came in*

And I wasted no time applying d-c-fix Milky Self-Adhesive Film to the lenses and further desecrating their bodies with my Holographic Orange Mylar Epileptical Reflector Shields. Which I must say worked like a charm smoothing the beam and eliminating CREE rainbow, compares now to TIR lenses only with more defined cutoff. Color temperature a lot cooler than it actually appears, if that makes any sense. Since there are no blue artifacts left with the diffuser the light just seems bright and clean. But made a red marker look absolutely magenta.

Interestingly, the default mode is ramping aka stepless dimming, you have to click four times after connecting the battery to enter preset mode. Heads really heat up on Turbo but flashlights didn't step down while I was testing them for around a quarter of an hour. Charged to full about two hours.

Center of gravity is just below the head where the inset textured grip starts, which makes the SP33 an ideal candidate for mounting on a bike. Feel way heavier than I'd anticipated though, not sure whether the cheap plastic swivel clamps currently hosting the relatively puny SP40 and SC31B will hold up under their weight.

Sofirn SP33V3.0 OP Reflector d-c-fix Milky Privacy Film Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Sofirn SP33V3.0 OP Reflector d-c-fix Milky Privacy Film Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Sofirn SP33V3.0 OP Reflector d-c-fix Milky Privacy Film Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Sofirn SP33V3.0 OP Reflector d-c-fix Milky Privacy Film Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Sofirn SP33V3.0 OP Reflector d-c-fix Milky Privacy Film Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Outdoor beam shots to come...


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> But Mole, why settle for that ho-hum elliptical beam when you could be rocking this awesome Spectral Squid™?
> 
> "Spectral Squid" Magicshine MJ808 Clone CREE XM-L2 NW Action-Led Wide Angle Lens Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr
> 
> C'mon, you know you want it.


Definitely curious how the beam ends up looking with the SP33V3. Nice to see your having so much fun with this!!!
Mole


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Andy is like a kid in a candy store with his new lights!

-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Stratus XPC 360º Swivel Clamps 2x Sofrin SP33 V3.0 d-c-fix Milky Self Adhesive Film Holographic Orange Epileptical Reflector Shields Turbo by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Running the SP33V3s on Turbo keeps the batteries so nice and warm, they can be recharged soon after coming in from the cold. Good thing too because the Sofirn 26650 cells were both down to around 3.8V after only a few minutes gathering beam shots, grrr. Oh well, don't really need to run them that bright, they're just for low beams in conjunction with either a head lamp or bar lights. Anyway was impressed by their throw, even after being modded with that d-c-fix. Guess the reflectors do add to overall efficiency, despite their Orange Mylar setting my bike ablaze.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> Oh well, don't really need to run them that bright, they're just for low beams in conjunction with either a head lamp or bar lights.


I agree, 7000 lumen low beams is a bit much!:eekster:
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Funny though my KD BL70S on High illuminates the scene all alone much better than the two Sofirns do together on their equivalent Turbos. Guess it has the advantage of being all the way up on the bars rather than down there on the fork and featuring a considerably larger [internal] reflector. (Same diffusing film and scaled external reflector, but 4000K on the KD.)

Might add that in correcting for the cold color temperature of the SP33V3 my iPad's camera ended up exaggerating the orange tint of the arc in front of my bike, which is [obviously!] light that has bounced from inside the Holographic Mylar Epilepticals and otherwise would have been wasted up in the tree tops. This pic in landscape mode illustrates the redistribution to the periphery ever so slightly better than the one in portrait; just wasn't quite the vertical room in the frame to capture all the illuminated area right behind the front wheel (okay I'm not the world's most competent photographer either. )

Stratus XPC 360º Swivel Clamps 2x Sofrin SP33 V3.0 d-c-fix Milky Self Adhesive Film Holographic Orange Epileptical Reflector Shields Turbo by andyXchrist, on Flickr

BTW was able to unscrew the bezels without a strap wrench or any special tool, just spanned the notches with the handle of a bamboo spatula and voila. d-c-fix was a cinch to apply to the glass cover lenses, didn't leave any bubbles the way it tends to do over larger surfaces. Also helps to trim using a nail scissors, account of the curved blade.

Oh and Garry, your Epilepticals are in the mail.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks Andy! About those pics, I'm not sure if it's the camera, the lights being mounted really low, or what, but I expected those lights to look brighter. 

-Garry


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

garrybunk said:


> Thanks Andy! About those pics, I'm not sure if it's the camera, the lights being mounted really low, or what, but I expected those lights to look brighter.


I think it must be the low mounting and diffuser film causing that. The area right in front of the wheel is super bright and washed out. I think getting rid of the diffuser film would go a long way to fix that. Wonder what it would be like on singletrack with vegetation alongside?


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> Thanks Andy! About those pics, I'm not sure if it's the camera, the lights being mounted really low, or what, but I expected those lights to look brighter.
> 
> -Garry


Both the low mounting points that cause the beams to glance obliquely off the ground as well as the camera that automatically adjusts for exposure, Garry. And I still had to set the focal points manually in a lot of pics to counteract glare. But like I mentioned the KD BL70s which on its highest level supposedly puts out a only a couple hundred lumens more than does the SP33 on Turbo eclipsed them both. Possibly due to its superior vantage point and because of its humongous reflector; also it's aimed further up for distance. Doesn't work so well for close range because it would just light up the cockpit - that's one of the reasons for mounting the SP33 to the fork.

RANS STRATUS XPC KDLITKER BL70S Sofirns SP33V3.0 d-c-fix Milky Diffusing Films Holographic Orange Epileptical Reflecting Shields by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Also as you can see from the photo below, the camera doesn't really capture much increase in brightness with the BL70S on at the same time as the Sofirns because of that auto exposure thingy.

RANS STRATUS XPC KDLITKER BL70S Sofirns SP33V3.0 d-c-fix Milky Diffusing Films Holographic Orange Epileptical Reflecting Shields by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Edit: Pic taken with both KD and Sofrin lights set to Mid level.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> I think it must be the low mounting and diffuser film causing that. The area right in front of the wheel is super bright and washed out. I think getting rid of the diffuser film would go a long way to fix that. Wonder what it would be like on singletrack with vegetation alongside?


I'm sure it's the low mounting, not the diffusing film without which the beam is just awful. Have exactly the same combo on the BL70s mounted to the bars and its a winner. Just that the camera can't correct for multiple exposures at once so the brightest area appears full of glare. In actuality the beams from the Sofirns were neither blinding nor all that very orange in front of and around the front wheel. And of course the ratcheting swivel clamps allow the flashlights to be directed further up for greater distance, as well as turned either more outward or inner depending on how broad/narrow a field of illumination is desired.

Sufferin' Sofirns SP33V3 Holographic Orange Mylar Epileptical Reflector Shields 360º Swivel Clamps by andyXchrist, on Flickr
Sufferin' Sofirns SP33V3 Holographic Orange Mylar Epileptical Reflector Shields 360º Swivel Clamps by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Am sure a lot of you are wondering why not just mount the clamps above the brake bosses. Reason's that (as mentioned a while ago) a full fairing is slated to go on the front and it'll hang down a few inches below them.

Will have to wait for Spring to find any living vegetation around here I'm afraid, Vanc


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> Still anxiously awaiting my HL-01 headlamp! Looking forward to trying out a light that isn't using a timed step-down, but has thermal monitoring.
> 
> -Garry


Garry,
Did you see this yet? Not in English but there are subtitles.
Mole


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

i got my XP-L Version 1 week ago."scroll little down for screenshot compare H600 vs HL01"

the downsides:
1.
heavyer and bigger then expected.
120 gramms, remove the magnet in tailcap= *105 gramms*.
more then double of the weight of my zebralight
i have thinked the light will be in the range of 60-70 gramms.

2. not like promised build in the XP-L *HI*
it have XP-L *HD* = so only half throw=10.000 [email protected] i measured

pros:
you can burn down 18650 batterys in turbo" ~1450 lumen i measured" near in one turn down about the very big amount of thermal capacity of the HL01"105 gramms pure alu heatsink!!".

in your video is the armytek to see also one of the more bulky lights, the HL01 *have alot more thermal capacity*= higher outputs for longer possible.

i have burn down ~2x 18650GAs in a test some days ago on the bike"helmet mounted" in ~ 2 Hours.
calibrate the temp regulation"must be done,out of factory its always wrong" + set it to ~65°C= near infinity turbo"+1000 Lumen all the time" in cooler conditions with a little bit airflow no problem for this heatsink.
thats impressiv .:thumbsup:

the XP-L HD version is allroundy in beam so good for everyone.
not to throwy not to spotty.

my 4000K version have overall a good colour tint."in your linked video its the 4000K"

i am not interested in USB stuff but for you the info:
it have same like the mf01 mini full USB functionality.

run with battery only
run with battery+USB=charge and powerd by USB at once.
run only with USB with full anduril functionality

the DC-DC buck charger circuit is only limited to 2 Amps max in draw from a source.
i think its same like in the mf01 mini in that lexel"german member" have a TP5100 build in, that says any power source from 4-18 Volt can be pluged in.:thumbsup:

here is the first nice video from it.

now with code for ~27$ overall a impressive light in performance.
if i will be ~40 gramms lighter it would be a great alternative for my zebra......
its the heavyest helmet light i own.

the weight i only see as the real downside of this helmet light!!!!
for compare the referenz on the market:
zebra H600= <90 gramms with 18650 battery
HL01= 150 gramms with battery

but if the weight of 150 gramms with battery is no problem, its the best falue for money what is to get on the market.

i hope i get soon my SST-20 version, they still have problems to get buyed the LEDs......


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks for the info lostplaces. It was listed on Banggoods site as an XP-L and not XP-L HI (think group buy page listed HI by mistake). Wonder how easy it would be to emitter swap to an HI?

Mole, no I don't have mine yet. Will check out the video links soon. Some BLF members have also received theirs. 

(I was intending to create a new HL01 thread once ready, so as not to clutter this one.)

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

lostplaces said:


> 2. not like promised build in the XP-L *HI*
> it have XP-L *HD* = so only half throw=10.000 [email protected] i measured
> .


Please clarify, half the throw distance or half the max. lux?



> pros:
> you can burn down 18650 batterys in turbo" ~1450 lumen i measured" near in one turn down about the very big amount of thermal capacity of the HL01"105 gramms pure alu heatsink!!".
> 
> i have burn down ~2x 18650GAs in a test some days ago on the bike"helmet mounted" in ~ 2 Hours.
> ...


Would have preferred the HL01 had a bit lower weight but because of the hot climate I ride in additional heatsink mass may end up being more important. Weight may be a little above my normal comfort range but that's for traditional self-contained bike lights that require elevated mounting to get proper aim. I'm hoping the lower/superior mounting options of the HL01 style lights will offset the extra weight enough to still be comfortable (actually I'm pretty sure it will).



> i hope i get soon my SST-20 version, they still have problems to get buyed the LEDs.....


What if any are the advantages of this emitter over the XPL options?

Thanks for posting all this information on the HL01. Think I have a pretty good idea what to expect from the HL01 now, still would like to see a timed output graph on this light but I'm sure that's coming soon from someone. Look forward to hearing more from you and Garry (when he gets his HL01).
Thanks again for your ibput!!!
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Mole, the SST is 95 CRI, is the XPL also high CRI? I love the light from my little Sofirn SC31B 4000K, only wish I could find either a larger version or one with pass through charging.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32917707163.html?spm=2114.12010615.8148356.1.13f47f97efazh0


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I believe the SST20 is a little throwier with higher CRI, but at the cost of less total output. 

I do intend to do an output/runtime graph on the HL01 eventually, though someone may beat me to it. 

Interesting videos, especially "The Dangerous Place" - LOL!

-Garry


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

MRMOLE said:


> Please clarify, half the throw distance or half the max. lux?


Lux=throw=beam distance of a light

any free smartphone app is enought to check it fast.
~5-20$ lux meters are more exact but for fast check its not needet.

all lights on the market are classified with it over the ANSI-FL1 to.

light from 1 meter distance on your smartphone light sensor or lux meter= [email protected]= how far the light is able tho light your trail forward.

for example the kaidomain KD2"~14$" is a typical bike light equiped with 2 spot lenses.
it have a lux reading of 6.000 lux @1 meter.
The HL01 have ~10-11.000 [email protected]= 50 more disance of view.

If they will have equiped the light wirh the XP-L Hi the throe will be ~18.000 [email protected] and much more spotty.

that also says me for example i can run the HL01 at half power and still have a very far throwing beam.

Lux readings gives you alot of infos about a light if you know how they affect anythink.

in any ANSI-FL1 classification it must be shown!!!!
for example:

180 lumen vs [email protected] meter= ultra heavy thrower!!!!
this light will be like a light sabre in star wars.



MRMOLE said:


> What if any are the advantages of this emitter over the XPL options?


1. 
Its ultrasmall ~3 times smaller then XP-L or XM-L LEDs and same 10 Watt 1000 Lumen Class.
that says you can use *3 times smaller optics* for it to get same beam like with the XP-L/XM-L types needet.

that makes this LED very interessting for multiemitter lights.
alot of light out exactly about that reason on the market now with them.

2.
they are ultracheap to get.

3.
Luminus shows after they put them ~ 2 Years ago on the market fast reactions on the cumunity and improve them very fast and nice.
for example Cree puts LEDs on the market, thats it, if the are ok its good, if they are bad, your unluck cree will never change anythink on them.

Luminus on the other side realesed them, the most imported part in this series are the high CRI one for users.
the first series was greenish/yellowish junk same like cree stuff looks like.
users want more and they start to improve over the FB4 series to now FD2 FA3......

the FA3 bins are so good they top now the over years leading chips from nichia and the samsungs also looks not so good like the aktually SST-20 series.

for example ~ 4000K series and in the middle how a cree 4000K looks like in compare to them."pic from BLF hope the link work"

the first series light equiped with this outstanding 4000K series was the mf01 mini, what i but alot of them.

this light also comes some days later then expected about the same problem like the HL-20 SST, alot of companys hunt now for the high quality bins and buy them all......there are hard to get.
i have read in BLF about this problem some mf01 minis was equiped with lower quality ones to only to sell more lights..........

the light is in my eyes the best rail bike light on the market out now.
TOP trail beam, outstanding lightcolor+ High CRI = 10 times better few that with any other "bike "light not imported how much it costs....

most people look at first on lumen counts for example.
but a typical CW light only makes tons of glare, selfblinding, kills night few abilitys from your eyes.
the other part is that the blue spikes from CW LED types are not only stress for your eyes by itself also in your mind.
i´t kills concentation on the bike.

so i start over the years more and mor change to warmer colors for all types of outdoor activitys. "not only on the bike"

the bigest problem ansd challenge for LED manufactures are not to make something looking warmish, the peroblem was that it must look naturally with no also frustrating discolorations.

for example take the mf01 mini,its noot needet to pump it up to 3000 lumens, i see with this light also with ~ 1000 lumens and below *many many times better* on fast bike trails than with any other light not importand how much lumes its set.

lumens are not really the importand part like some people see it as the number 1 look to buy argument.
i see the future of lightning exactly in that, not more lumens only improve more and more the light quality itself.

thats why i am look for what they put in the SST-20 version.
it will be a ~ 17.000 [email protected] very throwy headlight, buts that not the importand part, if it get equiped with the SST-20 FA3 it will have an impressive view quality what improves your view alot!!!!!

my HL01 SST-20 was shipped out so i will see it the light will be a ruler in 2-3 weeks.:thumbsup:

Luminus itself is at moment one of the top brands i think if you look what they do at moment.

not only the SST-20 was a big hit.
then the new SST-40 was it to, it overruns the XM-L/XP-L series from cree
next the released now the SST-70 series what overruns the XHP series from cree

the next hit was the new SBT 90.2 generation 2 what i get my first one in 2-3 weeks to play with it.......

if i look now on Cree what they have done or new realease in the last 3 years?
nothing......


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Rememeber, that Cree in the middle of that image is a Cool White.

Corrected that Image Link: http://i.imgur.com/iEiycIk.jpg

Or:










-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

HL01 order placed, looks like you guys are going to have to put up with my opinion of this light too. Appreciate the input (Andy, Garry, and especially Lostplaces). I knew I wanted one but was holding off because I have a couple of other lights coming in for evaluation but it didn't take too much to push me over the edge. :thumbsup:
Mole


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## SuperflyZ (Jan 15, 2020)

I had a MagicShine MJ900 for a couple of mont: compared to other lights, the output did look closer to 1200lm than 900-
The main problem was that it could only sustain it for about 15 minutes before turning off. I never figured out if it was a safety or the battery dying. Either way it would not turn on again before being completely recharged home. 
A bikelight suddenly and unexpectedly dying on a gnarly downhill is not good.
I would not recommend MagicShine products mainly because they are unreliable.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

SuperflyZ said:


> I had a MagicShine MJ900 for a couple of mont: compared to other lights, the output did look closer to 1200lm than 900-
> The main problem was that it could only sustain it for about 15 minutes before turning off. I never figured out if it was a safety or the battery dying. Either way it would not turn on again before being completely recharged home.
> A bikelight suddenly and unexpectedly dying on a gnarly downhill is not good.
> I would not recommend MagicShine products mainly because they are unreliable.


Would they not warranty that for you?
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

*Little JoK3rs*

Hey the pair of JKK03 flashlights I ordered from KD came in this morning!!!

http://kaidomain.com/JKK03-Cree-XHP70_2-LED-3600-Lumens-6-Mode-USB-Rechargeable-LED-Flashlight

JKK03 Bright Eyes Diffuser Lens X2 by andyXchrist, on Flickr

JKK03 by andyXchrist, on Flickr

JKK03 by andyXchrist, on Flickr

RANS STRATUS XPC 3X CREE XHP70.2 4000K 2X CREE HHP50.2 6800K by andyXchrist, on Flickr

RANS STRATUS XPC 3X CREE XHP70.2 4000K 2X CREE HHP50.2 6800K by andyXchrist, on Flickr

4000K on them is really terrific, make my entire set of Bic markers glow without changing their tint from that under natural light. Snow was starting to pick up and temperature dropping from the teens so had to rush these pics - probably no beam shots tonight, sorry.

Couple pleasant surprises, not only do these little Jokers support pass through charging but can even be run from USB without any cells inside (albeit at lower output and only in the two middle modes, so it seems. Weirdly, one of the units lights green at the power button when so employed, the other red and sometimes amber - can't figure out why the difference, they otherwise appear identical. Both make a high pitched whine when simultaneously charging and operating on the lower mode but are dead silent anyway else.) Other cause for joy, the 39mm Bright Eyes Diffusers actually fit under the bezels, even though they're like a couple mm or three smaller in diameter than the original mineral glass cover lenses. Guess there's room enough for both lenses together to ensure a proper seal. Also applied that d-c-fix Milky (aka Sand) self-adhesive film to one of their lenses for comparison sake. Both methods yielded good results, there's a bit more noticeable a hotspot using two Bright Eyes criss-crossed/back to back than with the d-c-fix, which produces a softer, dimmer but wider hotspot inside the flood. So probably can get away with using them on my 'bent this way without having to add on any of my home-brewed reflector shields (though you just know I'm gonna try 'em for the sake of it. )

Should also mention, these came with their own charging cables - USB to DC 3.5mm x 1.35mm 22AWG Power Cable 100cm, although the mini-review on BLF mentioned that none were included with his.

JKK03 mini review | BudgetLightForum.com

Oh and in case anybody's interested, cobbled together the QR swivel mounts for my bike from stage lighting clamps. Had to replace the hex bolts and wingnuts that came with them for shorter button caps and nylock nuts to make them fit together, and line with high density foam to snug onto both the flashlights and bar ends. Also purchased some of the lighter but bulkier ABS clamps to go on the vertical members of the bike's chopper bars where there's the space for them; had to hot fuse nylock nuts inside those because the original indents only supported JIS hex bolts which are considerably narrower across the heads. Will update with additional pics when the weather calms enough for me to go mount them. And still haven't even installed the fairing for my SXP that necessitated this whole Rube Goldberg setup in the first place, D'oh!

Edit: See that there is another difference, units I received run Low-Medium-High-Turbo, don't have to double click for it.

Also my second unit is defective in that the power button always lights red when charging OR full, guess I'll have to return it.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

SuperflyZ said:


> I had a MagicShine MJ900 for a couple of mont: compared to other lights, the output did look closer to 1200lm than 900-
> The main problem was that it could only sustain it for about 15 minutes before turning off. I never figured out if it was a safety or the battery dying. Either way it would not turn on again before being completely recharged home. ......


If you had and MJ900 that put out more than ~700 lumen and died after about 15 minutes, it was defective. Probably a bad driver allowing too much current to flow. This will create the extra brightness (and risk burning out the emitter) and trip the overcurrent safety circuit on the battery.


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Hey Vanc, emailed you to buy 2 mounts for my Ituo XP3. Should I send another email. Thx


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

mb323323 said:


> Hey Vanc, emailed you to buy 2 mounts for my Ituo XP3. Should I send another email. Thx


I sent a reply on Thursday to your cabike address. If you didn't get it, I can copy it to a PM here. Let me know.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

MRMOLE said:


> HL01 order placed, looks like you guys are going to have to put up with my opinion of this light too. Appreciate the input (Andy, Garry, and especially Lostplaces).


Sheesh, made my first order for a flashlight(2xHL01), might as well get another hobby.

Ordered without battery, can youse guys (gary, mole, andy, lost) recommend batteries?

Pref US shipped.

Thx in advance.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

https://www.18650batterystore.com/Sanyo-18650-p/sanyo-ncr18650ga.htm

Am assuming the Astrolux takes flat top cells not button.

Did you order the SST20 4000K Warm White or an XPL?

And which color flashlight body?


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

Astrolux HL01 SST20 4000K Gun-grey

Not sure button or flat.



andychrist said:


> https://www.18650batterystore.com/Sanyo-18650-p/sanyo-ncr18650ga.htm
> Am assuming the Astrolux takes flat top cells not button.
> Did you order the SST20 4000K Warm White or an XPL?
> And which color flashlight body?


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Huh, from the pic on BG of I’m guessing the optional battery? it looks like a button top but I’ve never seen any single cell flashlight that didn’t work with flat tops (which are a whole $3 less per piece at the 18650BatteryStore. Oh and they ship real fast, like same day, from Smyrna GA.)


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

patski said:


> Astrolux HL01 SST20 4000K Gun-grey
> 
> Not sure button or flat.


any 18650 works in the astrolux.
the only think that i not like is that they not make from two sides springs.
i will replace on the driver by myself the metall think with a berilium spring.

i prefer Sanyo 18650GA for all 1x18650 lights, its the best performer.

i got yesterday my SST-20 to and try i out on the bike for one hour.

Quick some relevant specs:

XP-L HD 4000K= 1400 lumen max with 11.000 Lux throw= good allround light.
SST-20 4000K high CRI= 800 lumen max with 15.000 lux throw= ~90% more focused beam but still very usefull spill.

its not build in the best bin from this SST-20 series like astrolux promised but a very good one.

i like the SST-20 version more on the bike.

i have limit the driver with 53 klicks to ~ 1,9-2 Amps constant current draw what is ~ 1,5 Hours runtime with a 3000mah battery on this setting the SST-20 throws ~8.000 Lux, and the LED in a good effizenz ratio vs output.

i try make some screensshots to compare this weekend XP-L HD vs SST-20 versions.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

lostplaces said:


> any 18650 works in the astrolux.
> the only think that i not like is that they not make from two sides springs.
> i will replace on the driver by myself the metall think with a berilium spring.
> 
> i prefer Sanyo 18650GA for all 1x18650 lights, its the best performer.


Ah, that must be why Banggood offers a button top for the HL01, because it only has a spring on one side. But yeah, the Sanyo 18650GA flat tops will work okay there too and are a lot cheaper than their buttons. Thanks for the info, lostplaces.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Delete double post


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

lostplaces said:


> XP-L HD 4000K= 1400 lumen max with 11.000 Lux throw= good allround light.
> SST-20 4000K high CRI= 800 lumen max with 15.000 lux throw= ~90% more focused beam but still very usefull spill.


Thanks for the measurements :thumbsup:. Both versions look like they should make good helmet lights. Along with a SST-20 version I also ordered a 5000K XP-L model, do you think there will be any performance difference between that and the 4000K XP-L version? Also do you think the Armytek mount I've been using with my SP40 will work OK with the HL01?
Mole


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

andychrist said:


> https://www.18650batterystore.com/Sanyo-18650-p/sanyo-ncr18650ga.htm
> 
> Am assuming the Astrolux takes flat top cells not button.
> 
> ...


Thanks for that Batterystore link. Nice to see another option for buying loose Li-ion cells sold in the USA. ( Ga. in this case ) Along with the Orbtronic website that I often recommend, that makes two great websites in the USA that sell batteries and other related hardware such as chargers at a great price.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

My favorite source for Li-Ions is now Liion Wholesale in Phoenixville, PA.

I've just ordered a couple of the LG HG2 high drain 18650's on clearance and one of the highly acclaimed Molicel P42A 21700's.

I still support Mountain Electronics too.

-Garry


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## mLeier (Oct 17, 2017)

We picked up some Giant Recon HL 1600's on Black Friday for $80/CAD each. I can't say enough good things about these lights! I have tried a bunch of other, more expensive lights and none of them lasted more than 2 hours in cold. winter conditions. These lights have yet to die on us after 4 hours and at temps colder than -20C with howling wind. We usually use them on medium and rode for 2+ the first night and the charge indicator light still said >70%. Forgot the light in the cold garage over night, rode again the next evening for another 2+ hours and still showed more than 40%. I find them to be plenty bright and am super impressed with the mounting options that they came with. I will definitely pick up some of the 900's for our helmets next time they ar on sale.


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Howling wind, -20 for 4 hours. That's insane!


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## mLeier (Oct 17, 2017)

mb323323 said:


> Howling wind, -20 for 4 hours. That's insane!


Well, just over 2 hours each night, 2 nights in a row. We aren't that crazy! Didn't charge the lights between nights and forgot them in the cold garage overnight too. That's awesome!


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Went to refer a Friend to buy a BL70 but couldn't find it available anymore thru KD or Aliexpress. Is it avail somewhere else?

Thx


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

http://kaidomain.com/KDLITKER-BL70s-Cree-XHP70_2-3000-Lumens-4-Mode-LED-Bike-Light


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Finally got around to modifying this wide angle lens to fit the Sofirn SP33V3 (and SD05). Good fix for the typical flashlights poor beam pattern for bicycle bar use.
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Nice job Mole! :thumbsup:

Did you file the whole thing down by hand to get it to fit? :eekster:

I’ve been too lazy to do that myself.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Very nice! Also interested to hear how you did it. 

BTW - I'm still doing all kinds of testing on the SD05, SP40, and HL01 lights.

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> Nice job Mole! :thumbsup:
> 
> Did you file the whole thing down by hand to get it to fit? :eekster:
> 
> I've been too lazy to do that myself.


Thanks! Did it by hand. It took about 30 min. but I think the technique improvements I learned doing it will cut that time down a lot when I do another for my SD05. Along with being lazy I've also been distracted recently doing that Magicshine review (they sent me a free light so felt it deserved priority). Wet weather and last weeks big dental surgery (pulled 15 teeth and put in 9 jaw implants to anchor a full upper and bottom molars - ouch!) have kept me off the bike for over a week but am hoping to be back on the bike by this weekend. Plan on getting back to playing around some more with the SD05/SP33V3 and my hardly even used yet Astrolux HL01's and SST40 S2+ convoy.
Mole


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*Moon sale @ Merlin*
















https://www.merlincycles.com/moon-meteor-storm-pro-rechargeable-front-bike-light-2019-95012.html

Best price I've seen on these high powered/feature packed Meteor Storm & Meteor Storm Pro lights.

*Pro's:*
Good solid QR bar and helmet mounts included, adjustable presets, ramping mode, good battery life display, makes every bit of claimed output, good functioning wired remote, premium batteries, good runtimes.

*Con's:*
Non-adjustable beam pattern, Premium batteries but unusual configuration so replacements may be hard to obtain, too much plastic in lighthead body to allow the pro model to run stable @ max output.

***Main difference to me is the pro's 3350mAh vs. 2600mAh battery cells that come with the standard model. 
Mole


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Nothing earth-shattering here, just an alternate way of mounting p-style flashlights with the mode button on the top. I don't really care for how it looks but operating the mode button is sooo much easier than when I had the light mounted horizontally. Accurate aiming of the light is a little easier with the mount pictured too.
Mole

***If you try this make sure to check top tube clearance. As set up in the pictures the light just barely cleared the drastically sloping top tub of my Pivot!!!***


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## Yeah right (Jun 1, 2019)

*WasaFire bike light*

Back at the beginning of the year I had asked about more of the reflector lights where the LED is pointed downwards.

Well, I impulse bought a WasaFire bike light from Amazon for about $13, but I never really got the chance to use it. Nonetheless, I was asked for beamshots if I ever got a light, so here they are.

This is the light
View attachment 1323713

Honestly, the photos on Amazon are better, but they don't have beamshots, so this is high beam at 6 feet from a wall:
View attachment 1323717

and this is low at the same camera settings:
View attachment 1323719


It has pretty good cutoff on the top. Sorry about the bottom, that's blocked in my photo, but it seems to fill the bottom well. The biggest problem is the dropoff to the sides where the light covers no more than 30 inches from the centerline, or something like 45 degrees side to side.

Compare that to a Ravemen CR700 on medium low on the right and the WasaFire on high on the left:
View attachment 1323721

The Ravemen has a poor cutoff on the top and would get into oncoming people's eyes but at least it's a warmer color. It also spills much more to the sides, say to the 48"+ mark on the tape measure, translating to a 65-70 degree angle side to side, much nicer than the WasaFire while still putting out a relatively comparable amount of lumens.

This is high vs high with the halves of the picture swapped around this time:







Look at the basket on the left that was completely invisible with the WasaFire. Also look at the chest on the right. The WasaFire only seems to be illuminating it because of the reflection off the garage door. The Ravemen actually spills light onto it.

In other comparisons to the Ravemen, the WasaFire also has lenses on the sides for some sideways visibility. But while the Ravemen's side lights come from the main LED, the WasaFire's are provided by separate red LEDs. These LEDs also illuminate when charging and turn green when the light is fully charged.

These are most of the parts of the light, except for the pressed-in side lenses:







and here are the main components:







There's the PCB with downward facing micro USB connector and the downward firing LED wired to the PCB. The white piece is a shroud and reflector for the side lights- four LEDs on the PCB, a red and a green on each side. Then there's the main reflector which the LED sits on top of, And finally, the front lens with the O-ring seal on it.

Not shown is the bulge under the shrink wrap of the 18650 battery, probably for the protection circuitry.

I'm sure there's stuff I've forgotten to include. I haven't done and rundown tests of the battery nor intensity measurements. This is just me seeing how well I like the light. I do like how it cuts off at the top pretty well, but I am disappointed in the lack of side to side coverage.

Perhaps it would be better with a lens on the front to spread the beam a bit. I will try to get a shot with a wide angle lens held in front of it soon, but the problem would be figuring how to mount that lens for actual road use.


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## Sam Handwich (Nov 22, 2018)

So, having read through this thread I'm left with this question: Is there a "cheap lights" setup that performs close-enough to more established brand lights for a lower-enough cost to make it worthwhile?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Sam Handwich said:


> So, having read through this thread I'm left with this question: Is there a "cheap lights" setup that performs close-enough to more established brand lights for a lower-enough cost to make it worthwhile?


Maybe, depends on your needs/type of usage and expectations. If we know how the light will be used (road or trail, bar or helmet, ........) we can usually come up with a couple of appropriate lights but in the end it's up to the user to prioritize which light characteristics/features (price, output, beam pattern, mounting options, ....) fits their needs the best.
Mole


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## Sam Handwich (Nov 22, 2018)

MRMOLE said:


> Maybe, depends on your needs/type of usage and expectations. If we know how the light will be used (road or trail, bar or helmet, ........) we can usually come up with a couple of appropriate lights but in the end it's up to the user to prioritize which light characteristics/features (price, output, beam pattern, mounting options, ....) fits their needs the best.
> Mole


As I'm thinking about this more today, my primary purpose for the moment is emergency - getting caught out on the trail after dark. Eventually, I'd like to get a full helmet/bar setup and try night riding, but right now...well, I've spent too much on toys lately.

So, for emergency purposes I'm thinking helmet mount, small and light, reliable are the top requirements. If there's something that fills those requirements that would also be good to combine with a bar light for full-on night riding at some point in the future, all the better.

I'm also thinking that since reliability is important, I'm less inclined to mess around with banggoodaliexpress stuff and go with name brand...but feel free to convince me otherwise.

Price is a bit tough, because I don't really know the range yet. Can I get something good between $50-$100?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Sounds like simple quality flashlight (assuming you find a good mounting option) might be the way to go for now. Perfect for a "caught in the dark" scenerio. Simple, cheap, easy to carry multiple batteries, usable as an actual flashlight and not bike specific. Only real caveat (besides mounting) is if you're looking for a super bright light for fast technical downhill descents as lights that can handle that will be much more $, and less runtime I'd say. I'd look at Convoy/Astrolux as "named brand" stuff is generally way overpriced with less options (i.e. not available in neutral white). You could even go with a model with onboard USB charging until you'd buy a dedicated li-ion charger.

I was going to say to take a look on Mountain Electronics, but it seems he's letting inventory run low (i.e. only suitable flashlight is the S2+ and some of the colors have limited tint options). The S2+ will be mostly floody. The C8 would be too large and heavy. I would have recommended an M1, but he's not showing a prebuilt option (host only). I have two M1's and an S2 as well as many other lights. My S2 has survived being shot out from my snowblower.

The Astrolux H01 is a fantastic light if you can mount it, but only available from China. I have videos posted showing it in MTB use. (Sorry, I've never gotten around to posting a review on it.)

-Garry


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## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

The CECO 1000 on Amazon is a great little light for under $40. It shares the same mounting as the Cygolite Metro. You can get two for almost the price of one of the big name brands.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Sam Handwich said:


> As I'm thinking about this more today, my primary purpose for the moment is emergency - getting caught out on the trail after dark. Eventually, I'd like to get a full helmet/bar setup and try night riding, but right now...well, I've spent too much on toys lately.
> 
> So, for emergency purposes I'm thinking helmet mount, small and light, reliable are the top requirements. If there's something that fills those requirements that would also be good to combine with a bar light for full-on night riding at some point in the future, all the better.
> 
> ...


For "emergency purposes" a flashlight makes a lot of sense. Either the Astrolux HL01 or Convoy S2+ would work fine and are easier to carry in a pack or pocket than a regular bike light. If your considering going this route please check back with us as both these lights have emitter options and choosing the correct one is important. I can also post some pictures of how I mount these lights if your interested.

A simple inexpensive bike light that would probably work well for you would be the Ceco 1000 sold on Amazon. Tons of Amazon reviews with most of the complaints being about the bar mount which wouldn't be an issue for you. You would also have to purchase a helmet mount and this light fits the Cygolite accessory mounts which are also available on Amazon so you could order it at the same time. The Ceco has very good output and is IMO easier to use than the flashlights but is limited to about 75 min. runtime in the high mode which is as good or better than the flashlights but requires usb charging and you can't just stop and put another battery in like the flashlights.
https://www.amazon.com/CECO-USA-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Resistant-Headlight/dp/B07HDWSQ4F
https://www.amazon.com/CygoLite-ExpiliOn-Metro-Streak-Helmet/dp/B00R950A9A/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Cygolite+metro+helmet+mount&qid=1588115402&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1

Best performing/quality/customer service option that is only a few dollars over your $100 budget because they're currently on sale is the Gloworm Alpha (25% discount from Action-LED-Lights using discount code BEATCOVID). The optics on this light are changeable so you can adjust the beam width from very focused to very wide, has by far the best mounting systems compared to the other mentioned lights and would not need to be upgraded in the future. This a premium bike light and you would have to spend over $250 to get a better helmet light package IMO.
https://www.action-led-lights.com/collections/gloworm-lights/products/2018-gloworm-alpha-1200-lumen-bike-light
Mole


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## agnostic (Dec 8, 2018)

Hi! I need a cheap bike light, to be able to:
1. Ride on rough terrain, in forests, where branches are sticking at weird angles and I need to see them to not impale myself (yeah, that happened...).
2. Ride on a road for 4-6 hours during long winter nights.
3. Ride in a city, where I need to stop frequently, so I want to be able to quickly detach/attach the light (I live in a country where leaving flashlights on your bike while you're away is not a great idea).

To meet all that criteria, I believe I need to have:
1. Two strong beams, one wide, one long, so I have good visibility during turning and also can see what's ahead. I don't like helmet lights, so both flashlights should be mounted on the handlebar.
2. Lots of batteries in my pocket, which are easy to switch. However, I don't want to have to do it every hour or so, so 21700 seem optimal.
3. No external battery pack, as detaching and attaching that is far from convenient. I already damaged one pack because I was in a hurry.

I believe that the most economical/convenient solution is to buy two 21700/26650 flashlights, one flooder and one thrower, with these mounts. I'm considering Convoy M21A as the thrower, and Convoy S11, Sofirn SD05 or Sofirn SP33V2 as the flooder.

The problem with all those flashlights is that they aren't bike lights, so the beam may not be wide enough or may not have a proper cutoff, and I don't want to blind people in front of me. I know that there are possible customizations to address those issues, however I'm a real noob when it comes to stuff like that, so I would like to keep it relatively simple. Will buying a flashlight and replacing the lens be enough? Could you give me some tips on what flashlight/lens/other parts should I buy and how to set it all up?


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## biking_tg (Dec 27, 2018)

agnostic said:


> Hi! I need a cheap bike light, to be able to:...
> The problem with all those flashlights is that they aren't bike lights, so the beam may not be wide enough or may not have a proper cutoff, and I don't want to blind people in front of me.[...]
> Will buying a flashlight and replacing the lens be enough?


You have requirements, which are not compatible. Cheap and proper cut-off plus good light output/distribution are a mission impossible. I live in that country which requires cut-off bike lights on roads per law and i am pretty up to date on cut-off bike lights...
You could put a hood on the flashlight, that somewhat makes a cut-off, i believe "andychrist" posted once such a mod here, but i personally don't think this is a useful solution when it comes to light distribution.

I suggest looking at the Lumintop B01, cut-off, light distribution although not ideal, cheap (~30 USD), works with 21700 cellls, max constant output 450 lm (which is sufficientyl unless you need to speed down a hill on a road with >20 mph. You can find in this (and the following) post beamshots of the Lumintop B01.
There is nothing in the market which allows to switch the battery cells and has a better cut-off than the B01. If you want a better cut-off beam and can accept internal non changeable batteries than you'll end up paying between 100 and 500 USD.

The lumintop B01 is for sure not the best for twisty rough trails, but easily sufficient for smaller gravel roads in forests and easy trails (if rotated up a bit, as can be seen in the link above)


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Sam Handwich said:


> As I'm thinking about this more today, my primary purpose for the moment is emergency - getting caught out on the trail after dark. Eventually, I'd like to get a full helmet/bar setup and try night riding, but right now...well, I've spent too much on toys lately.
> 
> So, for emergency purposes I'm thinking helmet mount, small and light, reliable are the top requirements. If there's something that fills those requirements that would also be good to combine with a bar light for full-on night riding at some point in the future, all the better.
> 
> ...


Your main issue is going to be "how do I mount it to my helmet". This of course will depend on your helmet and the arrangement of the vents. This why you might not want to go with a torch, otherwise any number of single emitter torches can work excellent as a helmet light.

Not to mention but right now is not a good time to be ordering anything directly from China ( which is where most of the more interesting options for torches come from ).

Nope, trying to keep it under a $100 ( as well as easy to buy without ordering from China ) might be hard but not impossible. If it were me I'd go with the *Ceco 1000* ( ~$38, which I own ) for the helmet and use it with the Cygolite helmet mount which uses the same QR slide mount ( I am told ). Then I would very much recommend something like the *Raveman CR-700* for the bars. With it's designed wide optic it would let you see a very nice wide swath of light directly in front of the bike. ( I own a CR-700 too ). Price for the CR-700 ~ $60. On the right mode settings both should run for about 2hrs or more ( depending on how long you use the brightest settings ). Used in combo, both lights have roughly the same beam tint and would make an excellent yet simple setup to get you out of the woods without breaking the bank or taking up too much space.

Both the Ceco 1000 and the Raveman CR-700 as well as the Cygolite helmet mount are available on Amazon ( Note; If Amazon runs out of the CR-700 you can order it from Merlincycles ( U.K. ). They are a reliable source as I've ordered from them before. ( Second note; these recommendations are based on my own experience with these lights as well as the purpose and price range the poster is requesting ).

( *Edit*; Just noticed the Odistar 1000 on Amazon. This looks very much like one of the brand name Moon lamps. For the $30.98 price tag it looks like a killer deal for a cheap bar lamp. Nice beefy mount too. Claims to use two high capacity cells....very interesting.


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## Outbound (Aug 23, 2017)

Sam Handwich said:


> As I'm thinking about this more today, my primary purpose for the moment is emergency - getting caught out on the trail after dark. Eventually, I'd like to get a full helmet/bar setup and try night riding, but right now...well, I've spent too much on toys lately.
> 
> So, for emergency purposes I'm thinking helmet mount, small and light, reliable are the top requirements. If there's something that fills those requirements that would also be good to combine with a bar light for full-on night riding at some point in the future, all the better.
> 
> ...


I'll probably be shunned for posting in the cheap lights thread. But the Hangover kind of slots in perfectly for your needs, although on the higher end of the price range.

Small, lightweight, ultra slim and designed specifically for helmet mounting.

Even I've been impressed with the reliability metrics we've been seeing. Aside from some of the earlier issues with the USB door covers (non-issue since the USB-C port itself is waterproof, and have since updated it) and the software changes, in the 1,800 Hangovers we've shipped, only had two reports of issues that required a replacement, related to the charging port not charging. Have since updated the production process to require a full checkout before delivery.

We are priced at $135 (currently $125 for the COVID "sale" that ends this month), but also run a typical black friday sale. So over your budget, but combine it with a solid bar light in the future and you'll be set for years.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

agnostic said:


> Hi! I need a cheap bike light, to be able to:
> 1. Ride on rough terrain, in forests, where branches are sticking at weird angles and I need to see them to not impale myself (yeah, that happened...).
> 2. Ride on a road for 4-6 hours during long winter nights.
> 3. Ride in a city, where I need to stop frequently, so I want to be able to quickly detach/attach the light (I live in a country where leaving flashlights on your bike while you're away is not a great idea).
> ...


This may not be what you had in mind but it's what I'd try if I had your needs.








https://www.jensonusa.com/Gloworm-Quarter-Turn-Mount-Garmin
https://www.magicshine.com/magicshinehandlebarmount-p00109p1.html
To attach either the Garmin or Gopro mount you could use an appropriate bonding agent (glue) or band a small aluminum plate together with the light and powerbank and screw the mount to that.

Instead of the pictured PR900 Ravemen light You'd have to substitute either a PR800 or PR1600 as they're the only dual beam models that have the battery extension feature (allows you to charge while in operation but the usb connection will only transfer enough power for about 600 lumens so possible that will be your max. output at the end of battery capacity with the PR1600) and instead of the silicon bands some sort of metal strap may do better in the cold but this is a way to have increased battery capacity using an external battery that functions and is removable as one piece. I linked a male Gloworm garmin style mount and Magicshine Garmin mount instead of the Gopro style mount shown because the quarter turn removal and attachment method is so simple and quick. The Ravemen light would provide you with and effective wide cutoff beam + a spot when needed for distance on the road and both in combo makes an excellent off-road bar light. I would encourage you to reconsider the use of a helmet light when riding off-road. Even a small torch strapped to your helmet will help illuminate eye level branches that might ruin your ride. You should be able to put all this together for around $200 US dollars including the torch light.
Mole


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## agnostic (Dec 8, 2018)

Thanks for the answers!



biking_tg said:


> You have requirements, which are not compatible. Cheap and proper cut-off plus good light output/distribution are a mission impossible.


Then how about one flashlight with proper cutoff and one without? I can use the first one when there are some people around and turn the other one on when there are none.



biking_tg said:


> I suggest looking at the Lumintop B01, cut-off, light distribution although not ideal, cheap (~30 USD), works with 21700 cellls, max constant output 450 lm (which is sufficientyl unless you need to speed down a hill on a road with >20 mph.


I know about Lumintop, haven't used it myself but read a lot about it. 450 lm probably won't be enough for me, I'm used to BL70s which outputs 3000 lm on high and sometimes I have to use it. Also, it's ~35USD and for ~40USD I can buy two flashlights, so the latter seems more economical to me.



MRMOLE said:


> I would encourage you to reconsider the use of a helmet light when riding off-road.


I tried, but I have a really sweaty head. Sweat is just streaming down into my eyes so I can't see much even if the light is great. 



MRMOLE said:


> You should be able to put all this together for around $200 US dollars including the torch light.
> Mole


I want to spend ~50USD, that's why I'm looking for cheap solutions like buying a flashlight and replacing its lens. Ravemens are unfortunately too expensive.


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## biking_tg (Dec 27, 2018)

agnostic said:


> Then how about one flashlight with proper cutoff and one without? [...] I know about Lumintop, haven't used it myself but read a lot about it. 450 lm probably won't be enough for me, I'm used to BL70s which outputs 3000 lm on high and sometimes I have to use it. Also, it's ~35USD and for ~40USD I can buy two flashlights, so the latter seems more economical to me.


Comparing a flashlight optic of the BL70s to a cut-off reflector design is like comparing apples with pears. If you adjust your BL70 in such a way that you see something in the distance (let's say 150 ft / 50 m), then max 1/3 of the lumens are illuminating the road surface, the rest is "wasted" pretty much in the sky. The time controlled turbo mode (3 min) from the B01 has 850 lm. It's really NOT about lumens, it's 90% about light distribution.

If the Lumintop B01 is too expensive, take the C01 and combine it with a second flashlight. C01 has an internal battery, same reflector, but a smaller LED than the B01 and a better beamshape. Max constant output is the same. I did some real world tests with the B01 and C01. I didn't keep them because i use fancier toys (Lupine, Outbound). I also have a 2100 lm typical flashlight, and as said, it doesn't give me much more (usable) light on the road than the B01 or C01 does. There is nothing in the cut-off market available at the price/output range of the B01/C01.

Cheaper typical flashlights will just blind oncoming traffic.


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## agnostic (Dec 8, 2018)

biking_tg said:


> Comparing a flashlight optic of the BL70s to a cut-off reflector design is like comparing apples with pears. If you adjust your BL70 in such a way that you see something in the distance (let's say 150 ft / 50 m), then max 1/3 of the lumens are illuminating the road surface, the rest is "wasted" pretty much in the sky. The time controlled turbo mode (3 min) from the B01 has 850 lm. It's really NOT about lumens, it's 90% about light distribution.
> 
> If the Lumintop B01 is too expensive, take the C01 and combine it with a second flashlight.


It's not that Lumintop B01 is too expensive, I just don't think it's worth the money. It's convenient and bright enough for almost all cases, but "almost" makes a huge difference here.

I know a person who owns both Lumintop B01 and BL70s and although he picks Lumintop most of the time, for night offroad rides he prefers BL70s, since it's simply more comfortable in such conditions. Also, I don't think that illuminating something else than road surface is "wasted" light, I also care about not hitting my head on some low hanging branches (yeah, that happened too).

Thanks to you I realized that I only need one light that doesn't blind people. Maybe I'll pick Convoy S2+, since modded versions that are not blinding oncoming traffic are easily available and really cheap. I'm not entirely happy with S2+ though, because it only supports 18650, so I could have longer runtime by buying e.g. S21A. However, that model is not popular yet and modded versions are pretty expensive.

I kind of hoped to be able to do some simple modding myself, but I'm quickly losing that hope.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

agnostic said:


> I want to spend ~50USD, that's why I'm looking for cheap solutions like buying a flashlight and replacing its lens. Ravemens are unfortunately too expensive.


I have a SD05 and SP33V3 that do work OK on the bike with an elliptical lens cover. Here's some pictures of the SP33 with the lens cover and before and after beam pattern shots on my garage door to give you some idea how much wider the beam will be.























Both of those light have the same beam pattern but for bike use I prefer the SP33V3 mainly because of its output adjustability. I like the magnetic ring mode selection on the SD05 but low is too low and high is too high so only one usable mode for me. While the lens cover does make the beam wider with a some what flatter top that would be better on the road I think a dimpled cover that enhances the beam vertically too would be a better idea for you since your relying on the bar beam to illuminate low hanging branches in the forest.
Mole


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## Sam Handwich (Nov 22, 2018)

Thank you @mrmole, @cat-man-do and @outbound for some great suggestions. Both the Gloworm and the Hangover are very tempting. How would you compare the two? 

I also like the idea of having a full setup for cheap with options like the Ravemen and Ceco.

It's a dilemma!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Is the SD05 still available? It is a nice well regulated output light (other than timed high mode). I did all sorts of testing including output & runtime, and have videos posted riding with it as a bar mounted light on singletrack (in stock form, no change to the lens), just never put it all together for a review. Even just on medium it's a very useful bar light with great runtime on a 5,000mAh 21700 cell. I can't imagine a better tight budget bar lamp - maybe the SP33v3 which I don't own, but isn't it even larger and heavier?

-Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Regarding the Outbound Hangover, just be aware of it's limitations with runtime and no ability to swap a battery during use. You'd likely need to find a suitable USB powerbank and a way to mount that too. 

No one has mentioned the KD BL70S, though you'd need a good battery pack and it's not "self-contained". Just throwing it out there as one of the decent "budget" bike lights. 


-Garry


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## biking_tg (Dec 27, 2018)

agnostic said:


> It's not that Lumintop B01 is too expensive, I just don't think it's worth the money.


for road/bike path riding, it is definitely worth the money. And i was talking about road and bike path riding.



agnostic said:


> I know a person who owns both Lumintop B01 and BL70s and although he picks Lumintop most of the time, for night offroad rides he prefers BL70s, since it's simply more comfortable in such conditions. Also, I don't think that illuminating something else than road surface is "wasted" light, I also care about not hitting my head on some low hanging branches (yeah, that happened too).


I think i didn't make the restrictions of a cut-off light clear enough: it is made for (paved/gravel) bike path and roads, which are in such a condition that there are no branches at head/body height. And in those conditions, most of the light from a conical beam shape is "wasted". Off course the Lumintop B01 is not really usable for proper offroad riding, no cut-off light is useful for such a condition (unless it has a high beam function). Although if you look at the beamshot link i provided, you can see that the B01 does a decent job on a small gravel path/wide trail in a wooded area, if the path is not to twisty and the light is rotated up a bit.

The modded convoy will just be more blinding on road/on bike paths than the lumintop. It is always a trade-off. If you want a one light fits all conditions, you need to pay unfortunately (much) more money, as you need a light with integrated high beam function: Raveman PR Series, Lupine SL-F and SLX, Supernova M99 Mini Pro lights, Busch&Muller IQ-XM.


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## Outbound (Aug 23, 2017)

garrybunk said:


> Regarding the Outbound Hangover, just be aware of it's limitations with runtime and no ability to swap a battery during use. You'd likely need to find a suitable USB powerbank and a way to mount that too.


Yep, no swapping unprotected cells on the side of the trail for us. However has the ability to charge while in use, along with the fact the light comes with an extra long USB-C to USB-A cable so you can use almost any USB powerbank out there.

For someone that wants to push 2.5 hours or so, just grab one of these lipstick battery packs (https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerC...d-search-10&pf_rd_t=BROWSE&pf_rd_i=7073960011), put it in your pocket and connect it to the light and let it slow drip charge it. I don't think it supports QC or does 2.5A+ so it won't "quick charge" the light, but would be plenty to supplement the light in any extra long rides without having to play the mode-changing game constantly.


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## agnostic (Dec 8, 2018)

MRMOLE said:


> I have a SD05 and SP33V3 that do work OK on the bike with an elliptical lens cover.


This looks awesome, exactly what I need - cheap flashlight with a wide beam that doesn't blind people! Could you share some details on how to do something like that for SD05? What should I buy?



MRMOLE said:


> While the lens cover does make the beam wider with a some what flatter top that would be better on the road I think a dimpled cover that enhances the beam vertically too would be a better idea for you since your relying on the bar beam to illuminate low hanging branches in the forest.


Sure, but I'll have an additional flashlight for that, probably Convoy M21A. When I go offroad I'll just turn it on and have a nice visibility on what's ahead. I don't care much about blinding people when riding offroad, because there are usually no people in forests in the middle of the night. 



garrybunk said:


> No one has mentioned the KD BL70S, though you'd need a good battery pack and it's not "self-contained". Just throwing it out there as one of the decent "budget" bike lights.


I used it with Trustfire EB03 battery box, but the box just broke, so I'm looking for alternatives that do not have external battery pack.



biking_tg said:


> for road/bike path riding, it is definitely worth the money. And i was talking about road and bike path riding.
> [...]
> If you want a one light fits all conditions, you need to pay unfortunately (much) more money, as you need a light with integrated high beam function: Raveman PR Series, Lupine SL-F and SLX, Supernova M99 Mini Pro lights, Busch&Muller IQ-XM.


Sure, you're 100% right. The problem is that I want to have something that will work for both road and offroad riding and I want to spend about ~50USD. So two flashlights combo seems like a better solution than one light which will eat more than a half of my budget and will not serve me well when I'm riding in a really dark forest. Lumintop B01 is a really nice lamp, it just isn't what I'm looking for.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Here are some videos I posted on using the SD05 on the bars using this mount (mount works well on 35mm bars with inside plastic piece removed). In these videos the SD05 is completely stock (no wide angle lens). Remember, there is a 3 minute timer on "high" and (very importantly) will likely step down from the extremely high output due to the draw on the battery - this of course is battery dependant.

Trailside comparison to HD-016 & NiteFighter/Revtronic BT21: 




Actual ride with Sofirn SD05 on bars and Sofirn SP40 on the helmet. SD05 is cool white tint while the SP40 is neutral white: 




Same ride as above (same night), but with Nitefighter/Revtronic BT40S on the bars and a Yinding on the helmet. (This setup is both neutral white tint.): 




Trailside comparison of light's throw: 




SD05 Thermal analysis and Output Testing: 



(NOTE: I purchased a better "higher drain" 21700 battery which does hold the highest output for longer. The Samsung battery will provide much longer overall runtime though.)
(ALSO NOTE: I'm building a new sphere for testing as this test revealed my sphere's inaccuracy due to light leakage of very high output lights. I was waiting for the completion of the new sphere before posting up any reviews.)

Hope this helps,
-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Agnostic, those 360º Rotational Clamps are not exactly quick release, you have to spin the levers about a dozen times to open/close. And on the wider 26650 flashlights, they have to be turned almost to the end of their bolts to open all the way thus can easily fall off, a real PITA. Also you'd have to utilize the thinner shims that are included loose in the box, and those don't clip in so just fall right out of the clamps when opened. My solution was to apply 3M double sided mounting tape, whose compressibility added some spring to the setup so that the QR feature worked a lot better.


Flashlight Holder 360º Rotation 3M VHB™️ Doublestick Tape by andyXchrist, on Flickr

There's also the option just to line the clamps with 3M Self-Stick Rubber Anti-Skid Pads:


360º bicycle flashlight holders 3M Electronics [ROOS] siliconized rubber pads by andyXchrist, on Flickr 

360º bicycle flashlight holders 3M Electronics [ROOS] siliconized rubber pads by andyXchrist, on Flickr

If you only want bar mounted than you might get more bang for your buck with one really powerful flashlight than two little ones. (And I say this having seven lamps and two blinkies mounted to the front of my current ride.)

After batteries and mounts, you're probably looking at around $100 after foreign transaction fees and taxes for a couple little flashlights.

You can get a JK36R from Kaidomain that has a comparable light head to their BL70S and with its swappable three cell power bank provides long run times. There's a dimpled lens on Ali that you can jam into the bezel if you'd like a softer wider angled beam, and even a layer of d-c-fix Milky diffusing film alone can do the trick. Also its pretty easy to make a hood for it from a seltzer bottle and aluminum tape. But you'd need a wider capacity clamp set up, maybe something like this.


JKK03 Mountain Arc Studio Lighting Clamp Global Truss SWL-75KG Aluminum Reflecting Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Pictured above is with the JKK03 rather than the 36R but pretty sure their barrels are the same diameter. (Not using on my bike right now because the bar end extenders I got for them were not strong enough to bare the weight, D'oh! )

Here's another example of swivel clamps I put together for three-cell flashlights on 1" bars:

1" - 2" Diameter QR Swivel Clamps by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Unfortunately right now deliveries from China seem to be taking an exceptionally long time. Otherwise I'd recommend Sofirn's SP36 BLF; 5000K CRI90+ and doesn't require any modification for a smooth beam, though again some d-c-fix will give you a broader field. Ramping feature works great.

Ordered another couple Sofirns SP33V3 in the newly released 5000K middle this past March but they never shipped and AE had to step in to get me a refund. 

Hope you are able to come up with a good solution that fits within your budget, agnostic.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Sam Handwich said:


> Thank you @mrmole, @cat-man-do and @outbound for some great suggestions. Both the Gloworm and the Hangover are very tempting. How would you compare the two?
> 
> I also like the idea of having a full setup for cheap with options like the Ravemen and Ceco.
> 
> It's a dilemma!


I would say the only reason to buy the Hangover over the Glowoem Alpha is if you hate having to deal with the powercord hanging off the light and don't want to deal with it (or you think the Hangover just looks cool!). Both lights have similar max. lux #'s so measured throw is also similar but the brightest point on the Hangover is so narrow that moving the light meter a hair in any direction will lower results considerably so real world the Alpha is superior for throw with a much wider beam even with the narrowest of it's changeable optics. If your helmet light habits include changing modes occasionally I will say I prefer the placement of the Hagover's mode button but the scales are still tipped in the Alpha's favor by the fact it produces almost double the Hangover's lumen output, has changeable optics/beam pattern, the preset output levels are programmable, love its special commuter program (only 2 preset levels (hi/low) that are programmable), and comes with an excellent bar mount + QR helmet mount that doesn't have to be stuck to your helmet, all for a similar price (a bit less since the GW lights are currently on sale). Don't get me wrong, the Hangover is still a fantastic light, there's just too many disadvantages to being self-contained to compete on an even scale.
Mole


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## agnostic (Dec 8, 2018)

garrybunk said:


> Here are some videos I posted on using the SD05 on the bars using this mount (mount works well on 35mm bars with inside plastic piece removed). In these videos the SD05 is completely stock (no wide angle lens). Remember, there is a 3 minute timer on "high" and (very importantly) will likely step down from the extremely high output due to the draw on the battery - this of course is battery dependant.


Thank you Garry, it was very helpful. I'm almost convinced to buy SD05, assuming I'll be able to buy and install those wide angle lens, and for now I have no idea how to do that. Since medium is still about 900 lumens, it should be more than enough with a wider, non-blinding beam.



andychrist said:


> Agnostic, those 360º Rotational Clamps are not exactly quick release, you have to spin the levers about a dozen times to open/close. And on the wider 26650 flashlights, they have to be turned almost to the end of their bolts to open all the way thus can easily fall off, a real PITA. Also you'd have to utilize the thinner shims that are included loose in the box, and those don't clip in so just fall right out of the clamps when opened. My solution was to apply 3M double sided mounting tape, whose compressibility added some spring to the setup so that the QR feature worked a lot better.


Wow, that's a bummer. I thought that you can apply additional pressure by pushing down on that lever thing, and then when you pull it up you can easily take the flashlight off. Now that you explained how it works, I'll have to think about alternative solutions, thanks for the suggestions.



andychrist said:


> If you only want bar mounted than you might get more bang for your buck with one really powerful flashlight than two little ones. (And I say this having seven lamps and two blinkies mounted to the front of my current ride.)
> 
> After batteries and mounts, you're probably looking at around $100 after foreign transaction fees and taxes for a couple little flashlights.


I already have batteries and a charger, so I only need flashlights and mounts. The reason I'm really into the idea of getting two lights is that if one gets broken, I'll still have the other one. Also, I can set one up to be usable in crowded areas, and the other to handle really dark forests. I don't think that I'll be able to do that very well with only one light.

I considered both JK36R and JKK03 from Kaidomain, but I'm afraid of mounting something this size on my bar. I'd rather have two smaller flashlights. Same with Sofirn SP36 BLF, it just looks too bulky.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

agnostic said:


> Thank you Garry, it was very helpful. I'm almost convinced to buy SD05, assuming I'll be able to buy and install those wide angle lens, and for now I have no idea how to do that. Since medium is still about 900 lumens, it should be more than enough with a wider, non-blinding beam.


https://www.action-led-lights.com/collections/lenses-optics-reflectors/products/wide-angle-lens

The above link is where I got my lenses but I'm sure there other places to source those. The diameter on these was a little too large so I just filed it down by had till it fit under the bezel. I used this foot file but any flat abrasive surface should work. Grabbed the lens and rotated it around on the file and just kept working my way around the lens. It did take a while (20 t0 30ish minutes).
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

agnostic said:


> I already have batteries and a charger, so I only need flashlights and mounts. The reason I'm really into the idea of getting two lights is that if one gets broken, I'll still have the other one. Also, I can set one up to be usable in crowded areas, and the other to handle really dark forests. I don't think that I'll be able to do that very well with only one light.
> 
> I considered both JK36R and JKK03 from Kaidomain, but I'm afraid of mounting something this size on my bar. I'd rather have two smaller flashlights. Same with Sofirn SP36 BLF, it just looks too bulky.


Well two flashlights plus mounts are gonna run you around $80 without batteries or charger. I understand you have 18650 cells left over from your TrustFire but it would really only make sense to use them in a three cell flashlight. Do you already have any 26650 or 21700 cells?

I've not had any problems mounting my Sofirn SP36 BLFs to my bike's chopper bars. The swivel clamps I rigged up are super strong and with the 3M adhesive pads I used to line them are genuine quick release - Once properly adjusted, 3-cell flashlights can easily be inserted or removed with just a pull of the lever, no need to spin them around.

And of all my 3-cells, the SP36 are the most compact. Classified as tactical flashlights, they're just about indestructible and have the most usable beam for cycling - even though it is a little clover shaped due to the quad reflectors - nothing a little d-c-fix can't cure... And with my slip on DIY reflector shields, suitable for riding MUPs or wooded trails.


Sofirn SP36 BLF Epileptical ™ Reflector Shield Anduril Magnetic USB Type C Adapter by andyXchrist, on Flickr


Sofirn SP36 BLF Anduril 2x d-c-fix Milky Self-Adhesive Privacy Film by andyXchrist, on Flickr


Sofirn SP36 BLF Anduril 2x d-c-fix Milky Self-Adhesive Privacy Film by andyXchrist, on Flickr

If you're still wedded to the idea of a small light, the SP33V3 might be the best bet for you. Very bright and efficient, USB C so you needn't any external charger should you go with a 21700or 26650 cell. The TIR optic from Kaidomain is only $1.99 and fits like a glove.

https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-...-clones-flashlights-1125295.html#post14529579


Sofirn SP33 V3.0 32.5MM (D) X 18MMM (H) 5-DEGREE PMMA OPTICAL LENS FOR CREE XHP70 d-c-fix Milky/Sand Self-Adhesive Film COPPER Epileptical ™ Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr


Sofirn SP33 V3.0 32.5MM (D) X 18MMM (H) 5-DEGREE PMMA OPTICAL LENS FOR CREE XHP70 d-c-fix Milky/Sand Self-Adhesive Film COPPER Epileptical ™ Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr

What's your time frame? Again, delivery from China is a bit iffy right now, Kaidomain has gotten very slow and Sofirn really doesn't seem to be shipping at all.


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## agnostic (Dec 8, 2018)

MRMOLE said:


> https://www.action-led-lights.com/collections/lenses-optics-reflectors/products/wide-angle-lens
> 
> The above link is where I got my lenses but I'm sure there other places to source those. The diameter on these was a little too large so I just filed it down by had till it fit under the bezel. I used this foot file but any flat abrasive surface should work. Grabbed the lens and rotated it around on the file and just kept working my way around the lens. It did take a while (20 t0 30ish minutes).


Thanks for the detailed instructions! I'll have to find something similar on Aliexpress, Banggood, Gearbest, Kaidomain, etc., otherwise shipping will cost more than the lens itself. What diameter your lens has after filing it down?



andychrist said:


> Well two flashlights plus mounts are gonna run you around $80 without batteries or charger. I understand you have 18650 cells left over from your TrustFire but it would really only make sense to use them in a three cell flashlight. Do you already have any 26650 or 21700 cells?


Sofirn SD05 is ~$20, Convoy M21A is ~25$, two mounts + lens hopefully ~10$, after finding some coupons I expect to get below $50. I don't have 21700 cells yet, but I'll have to buy them anyway and they may serve other purposes too, so I have a separate budget for that.



andychrist said:


> I've not had any problems mounting my Sofirn SP36 BLFs to my bike's chopper bars. The swivel clamps I rigged up are super strong and with the 3M adhesive pads I used to line them are genuine quick release - Once properly adjusted, 3-cell flashlights can easily be inserted or removed with just a pull of the lever, no need to spin them around.


I know a guy who claims that Convoy S11 is too bulky for bar use, so I'm not confident yet in buying something even bigger. It seems it's a matter of preference and I don't know my preferences yet. If Sofirn SD05 seems ok maybe I'll try SP36.



andychrist said:


> If you're still wedded to the idea of a small light, the SP33V3 might be the best bet for you. Very bright and efficient, USB C so you needn't any external charger should you go with a 21700or 26650 cell. The TIR optic from Kaidomain is only $1.99 and fits like a glove.


That looks really nice! How would you compare SD05 and SP33V3? The former is $20, the latter $30, so is there something to justify that price difference?



andychrist said:


> What's your time frame? Again, delivery from China is a bit iffy right now, Kaidomain has gotten very slow and Sofirn really doesn't seem to be shipping at all.


I'm not in a hurry, I managed to get another EB03 battery box, so for now I'll use BL70s, but I want to start using something more convenient and less prone to failures. I know about the issues with deliveries, I bought many different items on Aliexpress recently and only about 50% has arrived after 3 months.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

agnostic said:


> Sofirn SD05 is ~$20, Convoy M21A is ~25$, two mounts + lens hopefully ~10$, after finding some coupons I expect to get below $50. I don't have 21700 cells yet, but I'll have to buy them anyway and they may serve other purposes too, so I have a separate budget for that.


IOW, you'll actually be going over-budget when including batteries. :nono:



agnostic said:


> That looks really nice! How would you compare SD05 and SP33V3? The former is $20, the latter $30, so is there something to justify that price difference?


Dunno, never purchased the SD05 since it doesn't have USB charging or support 26650 cells. All my flashlights have USB ports into which I've inserted adapters for magnetic charging because I'm too lazy and uncoordinated to be fiddling even with USB-C.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

agnostic said:


> Thanks for the detailed instructions! I'll have to find something similar on Aliexpress, Banggood, Gearbest, Kaidomain, etc., otherwise shipping will cost more than the lens itself. What diameter your lens has after filing it down?


Sorry, That light is out on loan at the moment so I don't have access to it. They list that lens cover @ 39mm and I'd guess I had to take maybe 4-5 mm off the diameter.



> How would you compare SD05 and SP33V3? The former is $20, the latter $30, so is there something to justify that price difference?


Beam pattern on both lights is identical. They both use XHP50.2 emitters but I beleive they are different versions so while both are cool white the SD05 is a little warmer. SD05 will accept 18650 and 21700 cells and the SP33V3 takes both those + 26650 cells so light is slightly larger/heavier. User interface and programming is where the lights differ the most. The SD05 uses a magnetic spin ring to change modes which is a good feature if you use heavy gloves. Not a lot of reason to use it though since the only settings you get with the SD05 are off, low (350 lumens), med. (1000 lumens), and high (rated @ 2500 lumens but degrades very quickly). Outpuit in the lower 2 modes is consistent and efficient giving you about 2 hrs of runtime in the med. mode with a 3500mAh 18650 cell. The SP33V3 has similar efficiency but being able to fit a 26650 battery gives it more battery capacity. Traditional button operates the programming and different modes. It's been a while since I used this light and honestly I may have forgotten some of its features and definitely how to manuver through the programming (Andy can probably help here) but important in use features are a ramping mode (infinitely adjustable output between its upper and lower limits) and a preset mode that I also believe is adjustable. Max. output is also higher than the SD05 by 1000 lumens but the SP33V3 also degrades quickly @ max. output and unlike the regulated/consistent output of the SD05 in its lower modes all setting levels of the SP33V3 will degrade with diminished battery charge levels. SD05 comes with a charger and the SP33V3 is usb chargeable. In use I just turn on the SP33V3 in the ramping mode and adjusst the output to what suites me and go.
Mole


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## agnostic (Dec 8, 2018)

MRMOLE said:


> Beam pattern on both lights is identical. They both use XHP50.2 emitters but I beleive they are different versions so while both are cool white the SD05 is a little warmer. [...] Max. output is also higher than the SD05 by 1000 lumens but the SP33V3 also degrades quickly @ max. output and unlike the regulated/consistent output of the SD05 in its lower modes all setting levels of the SP33V3 will degrade with diminished battery charge levels. SD05 comes with a charger and the SP33V3 is usb chargeable.


Thanks again for the detailed explanation. To be honest, from my point of view there is nothing here that that justifies the $10 price difference. SD05 is a bit smaller, lighter, and its magnetic ring seems convenient. I don't plan to buy 26650 cells, and maximum output lasts a couple of minutes at best so it's not something I'll use. I also have a charger that's compatible with 21700 cells. I'll go with SD05.

If both SD05 and SP33V3 use XHP50.2 and have the same head diameter, does that mean that SP33V3 mods described by Andy will work with SD05?


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

MRMOLE said:


> They both use XHP50.2 emitters but I beleive they are different versions so while both are cool white the SD05 is a little warmer.


Well that used to be the case when the SP33V3 was first offered for sale and only available in one color temperature, but Sofirn recently added a 5000K option. Unfortunately though the pair of those I ordered in mid March never shipped and I had to have AE step in to get a refund.

To maneuver between ramping and preset mode is four clicks. Double click to enter Turbo when in preset; ramping goes from moonlight to Turbo.

Got a couple of the original SP33V3 CW flashlights mounted to my bike's fork, where they're only somewhere between 16"-18" off the ground and serve as low beams - have other lights to cover mid range and distance. So never really need to operate them above the mid level onpreset mode, though did test them on high and they did not appear to step down from there in the twenty minutes or so I ran them on that level. (Don't recall them stepping down from Turbo either but it was mid winter when running the tests so probably somewhere around 40ºF outside.)



agnostic said:


> If both SD05 and SP33V3 use XHP50.2 and have the same head diameter, does that mean that SP33V3 mods described by Andy will work with SD05?


I myself am guessing that because of the ring mechanism on the SD05 it might not be as easy or even possible to remove the bezel in order to install different optics. It is after all a diving light so waterproofing was obviously a major concern to Sofirn thus likely they sealed it up real tight.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

For what it's worth, here are the results of a runtime test with a small fan simulating airflow that I did on the SD05 with a 5,000mAh Samsung 50E 21700 cell (I never calculated lumen #'s since I can't trust my sphere):

Very consistent regulated output (+/- 900 lumens) for 2hr 39mins. The light then drops down in steps to about the 145 lumens until 3hr 7mins, then the light drops again to about 50 lumens until it shuts down due to low voltage protection (cell @ 2.79v out of light) @ 5hrs 40mins. 

So the light won't just suddenly shut off leaving you in the woods in the dark. You'll get some dim emergency use level to get yourself out. (Note that the light will flash for low voltage warning from 3hr 7mins until it shuts off.)

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> I myself am guessing that because of the ring mechanism on the SD05 it might not be as easy or even possible to remove the bezel in order to install different optics. It is after all a diving light so waterproofing was obviously a major concern to Sofirn thus likely they sealed it up real tight.


Bezel is removable but very tight like the SP33V3 and required a strap wrench for me to loosen it. Looks a little different from what I remember on the SP33V3 (Glass lens cover seemed thicker). Main thing is it's possible to fit the elliptical lens cover to the SD05. I looked through my notes on SP33V3 and it doesn't appear that I recorded any measurements on the turbo mode except initial output. I remember it visually dimming but couldn't say for sure if the degradation rate was the same as the SD05. Will test that when I get the light back. Nice surprise to see they are offering 5000K options now. I'd definately order it that way if I were in the market for a new one. Thanks for the input (you too Garry)!!!
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

MRMOLE said:


> Bezel is removable but very tight like the SP33V3 and required a strap wrench for me to loosen it. Looks a little different from what I remember on the SP33V3 (Glass lens cover seemed thicker). Main thing is it's possible to fit the elliptical lens cover to the SD05.


Cool! That probably means Kaidomain's TIR optics would fit too.

Still, judging by your description of brightness settings on the SD05, think the SP33V3 would be a lot more versatile for cycling. Both its preset and ramping modes work great.



MRMOLE said:


> I looked through my notes on SP33V3 and it doesn't appear that I recorded any measurements on the turbo mode except initial output. I remember it visually dimming but couldn't say for sure if the degradation rate was the same as the SD05. Will test that when I get the light back. Nice surprise to see they are offering 5000K options now. I'd definately order it that way if I were in the market for a new one. Thanks for the input (you too Garry)!!!
> Mole


I removed the gaskets around the emitter dies from one of my SP33 lamp heads and added thermal paste there and around the rim of the reflector where it contacts the end of the flashlight's barrel. Bezel area now heats up much faster so maybe possible to run on Turbo without stepping down, at least when moving along at a good clip - which is when that mode would be most needed.

https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-nigh...r-reflectors-secondary-heatsinks-1128803.html


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## agnostic (Dec 8, 2018)

garrybunk said:


> Very consistent regulated output (+/- 900 lumens) for 2hr 39mins. The light then drops down in steps to about the 145 lumens until 3hr 7mins, then the light drops again to about 50 lumens until it shuts down due to low voltage protection (cell @ 2.79v out of light) @ 5hrs 40mins.


Thanks for sharing those results, those numbers look very promising. I'll go with SD05, it seems to be the best option for my needs, considering the price.



MRMOLE said:


> Bezel is removable but very tight like the SP33V3 and required a strap wrench for me to loosen it.


This sounds kind of scary, like it's possible to damage the flashlight by trying to remove the bezel. I'll risk it though.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

agnostic said:


> This sounds kind of scary, like it's possible to damage the flashlight by trying to remove the bezel. I'll risk it though.


Might make it easier remove the bezel by heating it up with a blow dryer first. That's how I got it off my Sofirn SP40, along with a snap ring pliers.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

agnostic said:


> This sounds kind of scary, like it's possible to damage the flashlight by trying to remove the bezel. I'll risk it though.


Not scary at all, the bezel just screws on the front of the light very tightly. Here's a picture of the strap wrench I used. If you have strong hands you may not even need this.
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Agnostic, just had a thought regarding those 360º Rotation Bicycle Flashlight Mounts. As long as you go with a 21700 capacity model like the SD05 then there should be enough length to the QR spindle such that you don't have to spin the lever all the way to the end in order to open the clamp. That means you can glue on an M5[?] hex cap there with Loctite Red so that the lever won't fall off if you spin it around in the dark when removing the flashlight.

Will check later to make sure I've got the gauge right on the assembly, but M5 seems to be the most common on bike mounts/accessories. Gotta go rummage through a two gallon container of bolts and nuts to find the hex cap, so this might take a while...

Edit: Well a hex nut that fits the spindle won't fit inside the pivot's bracket, D'oh! But a simple solution might be just to apply a drop or so of red Loctite to the threads at the end of the spindle so that it can't unscrew all the way. That should work for 21700 barrels; unfortunately 26650 flashlights are too wide for this trick as the QR levers have to be spun close to the spindle ends in order to release the clamps.

Here's a mockup with red marker in lieu of Loctite applied to the handlebar clamp side of the mount:


360º Rotation Bicycle Flashlight Clamps Loctite Red by andyXchrist, on Flickr


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Red Loctite is an anaerobic threadlocker. It will not cure in the pictured application. For a DIY solution a gel-type superglue would work or for a professional product Vibra-Tite....

https://www.vibra-tite.com/product-category/threadlockers/removable-reusable-threadlockers/


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## agnostic (Dec 8, 2018)

andychrist said:


> Agnostic, just had a thought regarding those 360º Rotation Bicycle Flashlight Mounts. As long as you go with a 21700 capacity model like the SD05 then there should be enough length to the QR spindle such that you don't have to spin the lever all the way to the end in order to open the clamp.[...]


I'll probably risk it with the mounts, since I found only those alternatives and they don't look convincing or cost twice as much:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32735444534.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33045739602.html

I've just prepared the order, but my 7$ coupon expired, so I'll wait for another one.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah I saw those mounts on Amazon and they both got scathing reviews. Apparently the plastic clamps broke at the swivel and the alloy ones cracked easily. 

The 360°Rotation Bicycle Flashlight Holders are actually a lot stronger than you'd think from the pics and pretty spiffy looking to boot, maybe they're made from ABS plastic? Just that the included shims don't have much flex, making the QR mechanism kinda unresponsive. Again, replacing or lining them with 2mm 3M Siliconized Rubber Anti-Skid Pads helps immensely. Will improve grip and add spring to the clamps that you can feel when opening and closing the levers. Saw them on Ali once but they were asking the same price for a single little sheet as Amazon offered on two, and now I can't even find them there at all.  Dunno if there's any comparable product, the 3M worked better than any other adhesive rubber I tried. Even those pricey swivels for my 3-cell flashlights rigged up from alloy studio lighting clamps would have been useless without the 3M.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

@agnostic: Found these 2mm thick 3M strips on AE, the 20mm wide should be a perfect fit inside the 360º Rotation Bicycle Flashlight Holders. So even better than the ROOS, which have to be cut lengthwise.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*Quicker Quick Release!*


I got my SP33V3 back in time to take it on my Saturday night ride. 57mi. gave me some time to reflect on the design features that require several rotations of the cam lever arm to release the clamp making it more of a semi-quick release (OK but less convenient than it could be). Looking at the mount I noticed the retention ring that rides below the cam lever arm is recessed into the clamp arm more than the lift of the cam can compensate for. As an experiment using a piece of old zip tie to limit how far the retention ring inserts into the clamp arm just lifting the lever will now release the system. Not a perfect fit but close enough for the experiment.
Mole


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Interesting idea. Anyone who owns one of the cam type torch mounts usually has to first, undo the cam lever and then do a bit of unscrewing of the lever in order to release the torch. I like your idea as long as it doesn't allow the clamp to slip off the top if you hit a big enough bump. Not really been a big inconvenience for me but if I start to use an "all torch" setup it might be nice to be able release the bar torch more easily if I have to take it off after every ride. That's because it saves time not having to readjust the tension on the cam lever when you want to put the torch back on. 

My cam lever mount is a little different than yours. Mine is not as beefy. Yours is the newer style. While posting this it suddenly occurred to me that I've never tested mine using a torch designed to hold a 21700 cell. Just now gave it a test and it works perfectly fine. Should have no problems when the E07 arrives.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Cat-man-do said:


> I like your idea as long as it doesn't allow the clamp to slip off the top if you hit a big enough bump.


Good eye, that's what my "not a perfect fit" comment was referring to. Soft plastic of the zip tie should easily/quickly be filed down so there's just a small lip holding the retention ring in place. It seems secure the way it is but better safe than sorry.
Mole


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## agnostic (Dec 8, 2018)

andychrist said:


> @agnostic: Found these 2mm thick 3M strips on AE, the 20mm wide should be a perfect fit inside the 360º Rotation Bicycle Flashlight Holders. So even better than the ROOS, which have to be cut lengthwise.


Thanks! Added it to my shopping list, though I'm pretty sure I'll come up with something, I have a lot of rubber strips lying around.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah agnostic, those rubber strips might come in very handy. Thing about the 360º Rotation Flashlight Holders, they've got an iffy channel-lock mechanism that's prone to popping suddenly from either of the two inner grooves when the clamps are closed tight (sounds like a fire cracker or blow out, scared the crap out of me.) Thus they work best on flashlights with barrels wide enough to support their third, widest possible opening. A 21700 flashlight such as the Sofirm SD05 might be a little narrow for that (Mole would know) but if you wrap it with some extra rubber tubing or affix proper lengths of those 3M siliconized strips over the included snap-in shims you should certainly be able to get a good fit.


360º Rotation Bicycle Flashlight Holders Channel Lock Mechanism by andyXchrist, on Flickr


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## 156flash (Aug 16, 2013)

*Is the BL70s worth trying*



patski said:


> http://kaidomain.com/KDLITKER-BL70s-Cree-XHP70_2-3000-Lumens-4-Mode-LED-Bike-Light


Hi
I am looking for a light head to go on my handlebars, has anyone had any experience with this light, how close to the claimed lumens will it be expected to produce.

Also I run a Azure thumb 1000 on my helmet, what color out of the 3 to choose from would go best with the Azure?


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

While I myself don't have any way of precisely measuring its output, the BL70s is brighter than any other bike lamp in my huge collection. That said, in terms of beam pattern, think I prefer Kaidomain's BL2s with its smoother TIR optics (though the rings and corona on the BT70s can be eliminated with either a layer of diffusing film or this beaded lens without compromising throw too much.) Dunno how it compares in efficiency but the XM L2 U3 emitters seem to match the XHP70.2 in tone at the same specified color temperature (mine are both 4000K.) Trouble with the BL2s is that its UI cycles through Off and of course is not quite as bright as the BL70s. Advantage is compact size and light weight, more likely to stay in place over rough terrain.

Not familiar with your Azur but suspect it's Cool White 6500K simply because the manufacturer does not state otherwise. But I wouldn't worry too much about matching emitter colors since a warmer temperature would be better on the trails period. 4500K probably optimal but unfortunately right now the BL70s is only offered in 3000K 4000K and 6500K. Bummer, because 5000K probably would have worked best along with your Azur. See that BL2s is available in that option, and so are the jin heng JKK03 and JKK36R Flashlights, both at KD and AE. Sofirn SP36 BLF comes in 5000K CRI90, has a terrific beam and is the most compact. While lacking the jin hengs' LED %charge readout, it supports USB charging without having to remove the tail cap - unfortunately though a lot of problems with shipping from the Sofirn Store right now.

Mounting 3-cell flashlights to the bars can be a bit of a challenge but worth the effort in return for the convenience and reliability of self contained lights.

BTW 156flash, what kind of trails/paths will you be riding - single track, MUPs or road? Because surrounding vegetation (or lack thereof) will influence what beam pattern or color temperature works best on your bars.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> BTW 156flash, what kind of trails/paths will you be riding - single track, MUPs or road? Because surrounding vegetation (or lack thereof) will influence what beam pattern or color temperature works best on your bars.


Usage would definitely influence who this type of light (high powered bar) would be appropriate for. I didn't see any ratings for the 3 preset levels either (any estimates?). With all that weight does the mount keep the light stable?
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Well Mole, the lowest setting on the BT70s, while brighter than moonlight, is barely limp-home. Medium is quite useful though, I only really have use the brightest when bombing down the steepest hill on my regular 35 mile circuit. Of course, if running out of juice were of no concern, I'd always keep it on High when road riding, as asphalt is a bear to illuminate - especially on rural back roads without any lane divider or shoulder markings.

Don't recall ever having had any problem keeping the light stable with its Magicshine style mount... but then again I'm old and senile.  Also my bars have a [black] matte finish so that helps keep the lamp from shifting. Comes with two different sized O-rings (standard practice) and of course it's pretty easy to shim bars with either siliconized rubber strips for better grip or even aluminum tape, to make it easier to adjust the beam angle on the fly.

BL70s is a pretty high quality bike lamp over all. Yellow ochre corona (4000K model) fairly noticeable on paved surfaces, dunno whether it would be detectable on single track/off-road as my local trails are all gravel MUPs (guessing originally fire roads). Again, d-c-fix or that AE beaded lens correct said problem but produce a little more spill than might be useful, especially overhead. DIY reflecting shield goes well with that mod.


Kaidomain BT70S d-c-fix self adhesive Milky film Aluminum/PE reflector shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr


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## agnostic (Dec 8, 2018)

156flash said:


> Hi
> I am looking for a light head to go on my handlebars, has anyone had any experience with this light, how close to the claimed lumens will it be expected to produce.
> 
> Also I run a Azure thumb 1000 on my helmet, what color out of the 3 to choose from would go best with the Azure?


If you don't mind having external battery pack, go for it. For me the highest mode on this light is almost too much, I use it only when it's really dark. Mid is usually more than enough and with my six 18650 cells it lasts a couple of hours. Also, the mount is really flimsy, I had to replace it with bottom part of my other light. Here's a review in Polish, maybe google translate will help you. TLDR: yes, it actually produces 3000 lumens in its highest mode.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Great that the BL70's output ratings aren't overstated but is the 3000ish lumen mode sustainable or does it step down from thermal buildup after a few minutes? Is it fair to say a 6 cell battery is a must for the BL70?
Mole


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## agnostic (Dec 8, 2018)

MRMOLE said:


> Great that the BL70's output ratings aren't overstated but is the 3000ish lumen mode sustainable or does it step down from thermal buildup after a few minutes? Is it fair to say a 6 cell battery is a must for the BL70?
> Mole


I don't have any equipment to measure the output, but I didn't notice any step downs while riding during winter. Though when stationary the light is getting hot pretty quickly.

You'll need at least four cells, but the more you have the more convenient it gets, since you don't have to charge that often.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

BT70s doesn’t seem ever to step down. 

Also according to Kaidomain it’s “Constant Current” so should maintain the same brightness until batteries drain down to cutoff voltage.

Again have never run it on high for an entire ride. Should test it that way one of these days since I’ve got plenty other lights on my bars as backups in case the BL70s doesn’t make it all the way home before it’s TrustFire 6-cell power bank runs out of juice.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

agnostic said:


> I don't have any equipment to measure the output, but I didn't notice any step downs while riding during winter. Though when stationary the light is getting hot pretty quickly.
> 
> You'll need at least four cells, but the more the more convenient it gets, since you don't have to charge that often.


Thanks, detailed enough. 99% of the lights out there are going to loose a little output as they warm up but if your not noticing it it's not really a problem. Just wanted to make sure the light wasn't having to dump down to 50% (or less) to keep itself cool.
Mole


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

I bumped the power up on mine to make the middle mode more useable. On high it draws 3.4 amps from the battery and takes a minute or two with no moving air for the driver to start throttling current. It takes a long time to get it down to 3.15 amps, never did wait to see if it steps down at some point or just keeps dropping current.

It's a big heavy light with the most efficient led there is, it shouldn't have much of a problem with heat. Kaidomain sells an aluminum o-ring mount that looks like it will fit, cord comes out at 90 degrees instead of straight back. Then it's just a thin strip of rubber slowing heat transfer into your handlebar.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

arc said:


> Kaidomain sells an aluminum o-ring mount that looks like it will fit, cord comes out at 90 degrees instead of straight back.


For some odd reason it's not included among their Bike Lights and Bike Accessories/Bike Handlebar Light Mounts so there's the link.

FWIW, jin heng's JKK36R flashlight which uses the very same emitter and reflector as KD's BT70s, is rated 3800LM max and I do find it noticeably brighter on Turbo. Specs however indicate it has a 10min step down to Low and I vaguely recall it's doing that when tested. Have only run it on Medium/1200LM for any length of time but should at least test it out on High/1900LM just to see if the run time matches the three hours advertised (on three 3500mAh cells.) And since I've got a pair, will also be able to note how well initial brightness is maintained throughout the ride.


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## 156flash (Aug 16, 2013)

Thanks guys for the great information.

I have been running a Yinding on my bars for a few years after reading about them here and am thinking about wanting more power. I have upgraded the battery pack to a Magicshine 7.8Ah battery so the power delivery will be fine. As I generally only use my big lights for 3 months of the year when MTBing I don't want to spend too much, I like smaller lights when on the road.

My local trail that I use the lights most of the time is easy, rocky single track with some 2" roll overs with thick bush in parts, I only take my XC bike on. I would love to do a 24 hour race or other night adventures down the track. Having a well secured light is important to me as I do push hard through the rocky sections.

Thanks again for the good information that gets shared on this forum.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

So 156flash, I take it you live in the land down under? Seeing as how the Azur seems only to be sold in AU.

Anyway, which color temperature Yinding did you get, the first 4000K sold by Gearbest, the revised NW 5000K or a CW version? Not sure of the specific beam angle on the original - someone else here could probably tell you - but might have more throw if you replaced the stock lens with a 10º optic - in which case it could possibly make a better helmet light for the trails than your Azur Thumb, and if NW would have a color temperature more compatible with the BT70s 4000K. Kaidomain stocks a 4-cell flat battery pack that's comfortable to stash in a jersey (I keep a pair in my jacket's two flap pockets both to balance the weight and extend run time) as well as a lighter weight 2-cell, available with either a long or short cord.

Also Kaidomain currently offers an XHP70.2 emitter on a 20mm star at 5000K CRI90, that appears to be a be a fit for their BT70s which unfortunately lacks an option in that color temperature. How's your soldering?  (I'm actually ordering one to swap out the 4000K on my own BT70s. Star there looks cemented into place with some kind of white resin, like from a glue gun, so might be a bit of a challenge to remove.) Also, you might ask Kaidomain if they could throw together a BL70s with that 5000K emitter for you, they've accommodated special requests from me and others before.

Understand that you're trying to economize but if you intend to participate in 24hr events sometime in the future you will need more/larger battery packs anyway. Plus you might be able to cannibalize your current packs for their cells to use in a TrustFire 6-cell power bank.


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

I have both the Ituo XP3 and the BT70. From my eyes the XP3 looks a bit brighter on the high beam at 90% setting. I don't use it at 100% b/c it just seems to get too hot. You have to be moving at pace to keep it from getting too hot. The BT70 on the other hand stays reasonably cool on high unless you are not moving.

My estimate is the BT70 is around 2000 real lumens. No testing just what my eyes see FYI.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

So I saw over at BLF that Sofirn has released a new version of the SD05 without the timed step-down (https://sofirnlight.com/sd05-diving-flashlight-3000lm-p0016.html). It is suspected that they also changed over to the 3V XHP50.2 emitter and therefore changed the driver from the nice regulated boost driver to the driver used in the SP33v3. They've also released a 5000k version.

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> So I saw over at BLF that Sofirn has released a new version of the SD05 without the timed step-down (https://sofirnlight.com/sd05-diving-flashlight-3000lm-p0016.html). It is suspected that they also changed over to the 3V XHP50.2 emitter and therefore changed the driver from the nice regulated boost driver to the driver used in the SP33v3. They've also released a 5000k version.
> 
> -Garry


5000K tint definitely a plus but not sure about the rest. Looking forward to seeing a output vs. time chart. As we both know the old version didn't hold its output more than a few seconds before it started to degrade (rapidly). Being regulated by temperature buildup may not change how quickly the output degrades at all. Will be interesting seeing how this works out. Thanks for the heads-up!
Mole


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## 156flash (Aug 16, 2013)

Kaidomain update
I purchased a BL70s in 4000K and a BL2s in 5000K, The BL70s offers a good amount of light although the color is a bit yellow for my liking.
I used the BL2s for the first time last night seriously and found that on more than just a few occasions it seemed to think it new a better choice of brightness and changed itself. It was interesting when I was coming up to a technical section and the light went down to the low setting.

I have emailed Kaidomain notifying them of the issue so lets see what they come back with.

Kaidomain did get back to me but it ended up the battery, happy with the service:thumbsup:


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

I picked up a cheap NiteRider Swift 300 for Mrs Z last month. Surprisingly good for 30US$ so I got a spare too. Kitted out the kids bikes tonight with them and we had a great ride tonight.

https://www.niterider.com/collections/cycling/products/6786-swift-300


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

My Sofirn SP40 XPL has started to fail. Great little light but the top button seems to not work as intended.


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## Sam Handwich (Nov 22, 2018)

Anywhere in particular you all keep your eye on for sales? Ready to pull the trigger on a good helmet light next time there's a good deal. Thanks!


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Sam Handwich said:


> Anywhere in particular you all keep your eye on for sales? Ready to pull the trigger on a good helmet light next time there's a good deal. Thanks!


What are your requirements (besides good deal)? Self-contained? Lumen output, runtimes, mounting options, price range? What bar light will this be used in combo with?
Mole


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## Sam Handwich (Nov 22, 2018)

MRMOLE said:


> What are your requirements (besides good deal)? Self-contained? Lumen output, runtimes, mounting options, price range? What bar light will this be used in combo with?
> Mole


Starting out with just a helmet light for when I'm biking in the afternoon and end up still out at dusk and want a bit of help. Eventually, I will likely combine it with a bar light for night riding, but I don't know which yet.

For this reason, I'm thinking self-contained and compact. Extensive runtime is at the less important end of the scale. I don't know what lumen output because I have no experience with bike lights previously, so no basis of comparison. As far as mount goes, my Giro Montaro came with a mount...is that a good one?

Budget...Can I get a quality light for under $150?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Sam Handwich said:


> Starting out with just a helmet light for when I'm biking in the afternoon and end up still out at dusk and want a bit of help. Eventually, I will likely combine it with a bar light for night riding, but I don't know which yet.
> 
> For this reason, I'm thinking self-contained and compact. Extensive runtime is at the less important end of the scale. I don't know what lumen output because I have no experience with bike lights previously, so no basis of comparison. As far as mount goes, my Giro Montaro came with a mount...is that a good one?
> 
> Budget...Can I get a quality light for under $150?


Since your new to night riding I don't think you need to spend $150 for something that will more than meet your described needs. Normally for helmet use I prefer a narrower very focused beam but if this will be your only light something like the Ceco 1000 sold on Amazon should work perfect for you. Strong overall output with good throw and a wide enough beam to do trails. Its a clone of the Cygolite metro series that I think Cygolite actually may manufacturer for Ceco so quality is on par with similar offerings from Niterider/L&M/Lezyne etc. Here's a link for the Ceco and a Gopro adapter that should fit your helmet. Let me know what you think, with your budget there are *slightly* better performing/quality lights available.
Mole

https://www.amazon.com/CECO-USA-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Resistant-Headlight/dp/B07HDWSQ4F?ots=1&slotNum=1&imprToken=fab9b8d1-6a6b-66f6-0bc&tag=verticalsco04-20&linkCode=w50

https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Niterider-Gaciron-Cygolite-Computer/dp/B07P9986YL/ref=sr_1_6_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=cygolite+metro+gopro+adapter&qid=1595342341&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-6-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOFNKNkw4S0owTzFJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzgzNjE4MkhFSzA4OUdUSTI2TCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzk0ODQ4UVRKTU5GRUFTM01HJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


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## Sam Handwich (Nov 22, 2018)

MRMOLE said:


> Since your new to night riding I don't think you need to spend $150 for something that will more than meet your described needs. Normally for helmet use I prefer a narrower very focused beam but if this will be your only light something like the Ceco 1000 sold on Amazon should work perfect for you. Strong overall output with good throw and a wide enough beam to do trails. Its a clone of the Cygolite metro series that I think Cygolite actually may manufacturer for Ceco so quality is on par with similar offerings from Niterider/L&M/Lezyne etc. Here's a link for the Ceco and a Gopro adapter that should fit your helmet. Let me know what you think, with your budget there are *slightly* better performing/quality lights available.
> Mole
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/CECO-USA-Rec...6b-66f6-0bc&tag=verticalsco04-20&linkCode=w50
> ...


That looks like a great choice to get me started. I can add a bar light later if/when I want to do real night riding, then upgrade the helmet light after that if necessary. Thanks for your help!


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Sam Handwich said:


> That looks like a great choice to get me started. I can add a bar light later if/when I want to do real night riding, then upgrade the helmet light after that if necessary. Thanks for your help!


That light far out performs its price so think you'll be happy with it. Always enjoy feedback so please post your impressions when you get a chance. Have fun!
Mole


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Could anyone suggest an inexpensive self-contained, long throw, neutral white to replace my current helmet light? I currently have a kaidomain kdx2 which I like very much, but I'm getting tired of the cable snags on trees, not to mention the added weight from attaching the battery to the helmet as well. Ive seen lots of references to the sofrin sd05, but its sold out in 5k. I like the CECO listed above, but I'm worried it might not have enough throw, and might be too cool white. Preferably Id prefer even 4k-4500. This will be paired with an old bt40s on the bars @4500. Thanks for any suggestions.


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## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

I have the CECO but it fit's sloppy in the Cygolites mounts. I like the Moon copy much better. It has a better bar mount and the Moon adapter fits snug. This same light is listed under a couple different names and the price keeps going up. If you can find it without the rear light it's about five dollars cheaper. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07JQ5L...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl And the Moon adapter. https://www.moonsportusa.com/product-page/rb-28 Cheap bar mount I'm using. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lightweigh...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

GuitsBoy said:


> Could anyone suggest an inexpensive self-contained, long throw, neutral white to replace my current helmet light? I currently have a kaidomain kdx2 which I like very much, but I'm getting tired of the cable snags on trees, not to mention the added weight from attaching the battery to the helmet as well. Ive seen lots of references to the sofrin sd05, but its sold out in 5k. I like the CECO listed above, but I'm worried it might not have enough throw, and might be too cool white. Preferably Id prefer even 4k-4500. This will be paired with an old bt40s on the bars @4500. Thanks for any suggestions.


I don't have any experience with the KDx2 but I do own thee other 3 lights you mentioned so can share my thoughts on those and how they compare. Assuming your using a 2 cell batttery with your KDx2 I don't think there will be a big difference in how these different lights feel (weight/comfort wise). The Ceco will be the lightest but will require higher mounting than your KD+battery and strapping the SD05 directly to your helmet will help mask it's highest system weight (I'd run an 18650 cell if I were using the SD05 for a helmet application). Max lux readings (throw measurement) of the Ceco and the SD05 (in its highest stable setting - med.) are almost identical and more than my Yinding or BT40. My Ceco's tint is definately warmer than your typical Magicshine/Niterider and a close enough match to my BT40 that I wouldn't find it annoying. Will be interesting to see if in the end you find the cable snags more/less annoying than the increased likelihood of snagging the whole light because of the higher mounting required by your typical self-contained light or the PITA (IMO) mounting/aiming of a torch. Hope this helps!
Mole


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

bcriverjunky said:


> I have the CECO but it fit's sloppy in the Cygolites mounts. I like the Moon copy much better. It has a better bar mount and the Moon adapter fits snug. This same light is listed under a couple different names and the price keeps going up. If you can find it without the rear light it's about five dollars cheaper. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07JQ5L...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl And the Moon adapter. https://www.moonsportusa.com/product-page/rb-28 Cheap bar mount I'm using. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lightweigh...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
> View attachment 1350491
> View attachment 1350493
> View attachment 1350495


Thanks, always good to hear about another decent clone. Does it have removable batteries like the Moon version? Bar mount looks like the Moon version too which is a good solid mount unlike the strap mounts that come with the Ceco (as you mentioned) and have been its major reliability problem. For what it's worth the Cygolite Gopro adapter fits my Ceco solidly so not sure whether I'm lucky or your not on the fit. If it's weight is similar to the Moon version though it would be too heavy for my taste as a helmet light.
Mole


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## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

Mole After reading your post i went looking at mounts again. After I ordered a couple CeCo gopro type mounts off amazon I realize I could swap out the bases between the Cygolite and the CeCo. I'm happy once again.


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## Sam Handwich (Nov 22, 2018)

MRMOLE said:


> Since your new to night riding I don't think you need to spend $150 for something that will more than meet your described needs. Normally for helmet use I prefer a narrower very focused beam but if this will be your only light something like the Ceco 1000 sold on Amazon should work perfect for you. Strong overall output with good throw and a wide enough beam to do trails. Its a clone of the Cygolite metro series that I think Cygolite actually may manufacturer for Ceco so quality is on par with similar offerings from Niterider/L&M/Lezyne etc. Here's a link for the Ceco and a Gopro adapter that should fit your helmet. Let me know what you think, with your budget there are *slightly* better performing/quality lights available.
> Mole
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/CECO-USA-Rec...6b-66f6-0bc&tag=verticalsco04-20&linkCode=w50
> ...


Finally had my first chance to use this light yesterday and...WOW! I am completely sold on lights. I don't have any other experiences to compare it to, but even with just this one light on my helmet, I was able to ride close to daytime speeds. It's really kind of magical to be out on a bike in the woods at night.

Two minor criticisms I have of the light: 1) It rattles a bit in the mount I got. I will have to take a look and see if some electrical tape or something will resolve that. 2) The button is difficult to find by feel. I'm guessing that I'll get used to it's location and this won't be an issue for long.

I'm excited to add a bar light to this setup. Something you would recommend with similar qualities and price point? You did say this one is more flood than you would usually suggest for a helmet light, since it was going to be my only light. Would it be better to put this on the bar and get something else for the helmet?

My riding friend saw mine and wants in too. So, what would you recommend for a head/bar setup if getting both at once?

Thank you!


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Sam Handwich said:


> Finally had my first chance to use this light yesterday and...WOW! I am completely sold on lights. I don't have any other experiences to compare it to, but even with just this one light on my helmet, I was able to ride close to daytime speeds. It's really kind of magical to be out on a bike in the woods at night. a
> 
> I'm excited to add a bar light to this setup. Something you would recommend with similar qualities and price point? You did say this one is more flood than you would usually suggest for a helmet light, since it was going to be my only light. Would it be better to put this on the bar and get something else for the helmet?
> 
> ...


Are you wanting to stick with self-contained lights? How much money are you willing to spend? Your probably not going to find anything noticeably better in a self-contained light than that Ceco without spending 3x what it cost.



> Two minor criticisms I have of the light: 1) It rattles a bit in the mount I got. I will have to take a look and see if some electrical tape or something will resolve that. 2) The button is difficult to find by feel. I'm guessing that I'll get used to it's location and this won't be an issue for long.


Shimming the mount is exactly what I would do though I think you'll have better luck using tape with a harder durometer. Mode button on the Ceco is kind of middle of the road (IMO) but think as you said you'll get used to it. 
Mole


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## Sam Handwich (Nov 22, 2018)

MRMOLE said:


> Are you wanting to stick with self-contained lights? How much money are you willing to spend? Your probably not going to find anything noticeably better in a self-contained light than that Ceco without spending 3x what it cost.
> 
> Shimming the mount is exactly what I would do though I think you'll have better luck using tape with a harder duramiter. Mode button on the Ceco is kind of middle of the road (IMO) but think as you said you'll get used to it.
> Mole


I do think I want to stick with self-contained. So maybe just get another of the same for the bars? Seems like that would actually be a pretty good setup. Could even add a second on the bars at a later date if I wanted.

For argument's sake, what would you recommend for "3x the cost"?

And do you have any particular shim tape suggestion?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Sam Handwich said:


> I do think I want to stick with self-contained. So maybe just get another of the same for the bars? Seems like that would actually be a pretty good setup. Could even add a second on the bars at a later date if I wanted.
> 
> For argument's sake, what would you recommend for "3x the cost"?
> 
> And do you have any particular shim tape suggestion?


For a bar light I prefer something with a wider beam. Lots of different excellent options like any of the Ravemen PR series or their LR800 all of which either come with or work with Ravemen's wired remote button. Cateye's AMPP series lights would should work well too. I'll do a little research to see what I can dig up for anything good on sale and post something later. As for a tape suggestion regular scotch tape or a strapping tape that won't be so soft as electrical tape. You may have to use a couple of layers to get the right fit.
Mole


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## Sam Handwich (Nov 22, 2018)

MRMOLE said:


> For a bar light I prefer something with a wider beam. Lots of different excellent options like any of the Ravemen PR series or their LR800 all of which either come with or work with Ravemen's wired remote button. Cateye's AMPP series lights would should work well too. I'll do a little research to see what I can dig up for anything good on sale and post something later. As for a tape suggestion regular scotch tape or a strapping tape that won't be so soft as electrical tape. You may have to use a couple of layers to get the right fit.
> Mole


Cateye AMPP800 is $65 on World Wide Cyclery with free shipping, vs. $40 for another Ceco. Probably worth it for a bit more spread?

Looking forward to seeing if you come up with any good sales tonight, but if not seems like it would be a good choice.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Since I too own a Ceco and have tested it as a helmet lamp, I'd have to agree with MRM that one of the Raveman series lights ( of which I own a few ) would be the perfect complement to the Ceco on the helmet. Roughly the same beam tint as the Ceco and the Raveman's provide a nice wide beam pattern coming off the bars.

The PR series would be the best bet and offer longer run times but the bar mount that comes with the PR series is not one of my favorites. It will work but you might have to use some friction tape on the bars to keep the mount from drooping. I own the PR-1200 and since the lamp is bigger/heavier you have to really tighten the mount down as tight as possible to keep the light stable.

If you can accept a 2.5hr run time on mid mode ( 450 lumen ) I would also recommend the Raveman CR-900 which is smaller and has no major mounting issues. Like all the Raveman's it includes a wired remote control but unlike the others in the CR series it has a nice digital display that helps you monitor run time. I use mine on the road bike but can work on a MTB too as long as you are using a helmet light in combo to provide additional throw.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

...........................






















Unfortunately instead of finding any good deals I actually found some existing deals that were no longer a bargain because of changes in overseas shipping charges. Merlin and Wiggle free shipping seems to be gone or at least for purchases like a single light. So currently Amazon and ebay best bet for Ravemen and Magicshine lights. Beam shape shots are of some of the lights I have (Ceco included) As you can see the tint is a good match as Cat pointed out. The link is to a thread that has information on each of these lights. I think any of them would work fine from a output and beam shape point of view but runtimes can vary considerably so check the specs. or ask if you have any specific questions.
Mole

https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/self-contained-z-1105995.html


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Cat-man-do said:


> ......but the bar mount that comes with the PR series is not one of my favorites. It will work but you might have to use some friction tape on the bars to keep the mount from drooping. I own the PR-1200 and since the lamp is bigger/heavier you have to really tighten the mount down as tight as possible to keep the light stable.
> .......


I make an adapter for the PR1200 to convert it to GoPro mounting. Easiest and most reliable way to make the PR1200 solidly mounted.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> I make an adapter for the PR1200 to convert it to GoPro mounting. Easiest and most reliable way to make the PR1200 solidly mounted.


I'm not sure about Ravemen's smaller CR series lights but your adapter looks like it will work on any PR, LR, and the newest CR1000 since they all use the same slide mount. 
Mole


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## Sam Handwich (Nov 22, 2018)

MRMOLE said:


> ...........................
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ah that really makes it clear how much more focused the Ceco beam is. Would be nice to have more spread on the bar light, and seems like there are a bunch of options under $100, which I'd be comfortable spending.

Any idea how the Cat Eye tint matches the Ceco?

Edit: I see that the Ravemen PR1200 is $90 and, besides the mount, looks like a winner. I'm thinking I can 3d print something or use tape as suggested above. Unless anyone wants to talk me out of this one, I think I'll place my order tomorrow.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Sam Handwich said:


> ...Edit: I see that the Ravemen PR1200 is $90 and, besides the mount, looks like a winner. I'm thinking I can 3d print something or use tape as suggested above. Unless anyone wants to talk me out of this one, I think I'll place my order tomorrow.


Not trying to talk you out of it but I thought I've give you some more info on how I got mine to work. The quick release slide mount on mine had a little play in it that I didn't like. I just used a little electrical tape on it and it stopped the vibration issue. The hardest part is just trying to tighten the mount screw. Would of been so much better if they had used an adjustable cam style clamp. The mount is also designed to swivel. I didn't want mine to move so I wrapped electrical tape around that too.

Other helpful tips; I had to use friction tape on the bars because even with the biggest shims I couldn't get the mount to not droop when riding over bumpy trails. What fixed it for me was the brand name "Lizard Skins" friction tape. This is the tape that is designed to be used on baseball bats. It has a sticky side that you peel off the tape and it sticks like glue ( remember, some baseball bats are aluminum ). The black side is almost leather-like and very grippy. It's expensive but a little goes a long way and comes in handy for many other applications. Just ran out my self so put some in my cart while writing this.

Since the PR-1200 uses it's mirco-USB port for both the remote button and for charging, the port on the lamp is going to see a lot of use. This means it could wear out real fast. I highly recommend buying a short micro-USB extension and then just leave that in the lamp and use the extension for charging and for the remote button. The smallest I was able to find on Amazon is 6". Ebay might have some smaller ones. The smaller the better. Better to wear out the extension than the port on the lamp. Extensions are cheap, lamps aren't.

Lastly, you might see a small amount of self-discharge when not being used. This is not totally unusual for lamps that have self contained batteries. Mine aren't real bad but I always top them off just before using just to be sure they are fully charged.


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## Sam Handwich (Nov 22, 2018)

Cat-man-do said:


> Not trying to talk you out of it but I thought I've give you some more info on how I got mine to work. The quick release slide mount on mine had a little play in it that I didn't like. I just used a little electrical tape on it and it stopped the vibration issue. The hardest part is just trying to tighten the mount screw. Would of been so much better if they had used an adjustable cam style clamp. The mount is also designed to swivel. I didn't want mine to move so I wrapped electrical tape around that too.
> 
> Other helpful tips; I had to use friction tape on the bars because even with the biggest shims I couldn't get the mount to not droop when riding over bumpy trails. What fixed it for me was the brand name "Lizard Skins" friction tape. This is the tape that is designed to be used on baseball bats. It has a sticky side that you peel off the tape and it sticks like glue ( remember, some baseball bats are aluminum ). The black side is almost leather-like and very grippy. It's expensive but a little goes a long way and comes in handy for many other applications. Just ran out my self so put some in my cart while writing this.
> 
> ...


Eesh...ok, I know it wasn't the point you were making, but this does kinda sour me on it a bit. The Cat Eye AMPP1100 is about the same price. Maybe that one, or something else in the ~$100 range. Guess I'll do a bit more looking!


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Sam Handwich said:


> Eesh...ok, I know it wasn't the point you were making, but this does kinda sour me on it a bit. The Cat Eye AMPP1100 is about the same price. Maybe that one, or something else in the ~$100 range. Guess I'll do a bit more looking!


*The Cat Eye AMPP1100* doesn't seem to be getting great reviews. *The Niterider Lumina Dual 1800 Headlight* has gotten some pretty good reviews although it is a bit expensive. *I personally like the look of the Fenix BC30 V2.* This lamp looks like it has everything you could want except digital display. That said if I didn't own the lamps I already own and wanted a dual emitter self-contained lamp I'd buy one of these real fast. Looks to have a great UI and a wireless ( two button ) remote as well. Even better the lamp allows in the field switching of batteries if you wish to do so. All you need is a couple extra 18650s and you never have to worry about running out of battery juice. The mount is similar to the Raveman PR's but looks a little more beefy. If it were me I'd go with the Fenix in a heartbeat.

( Note; The price on the Fenix doesn't include batteries. No problem you can buy quality batteries from Orbtronic, your choice 18650 Panasonic, LG or Samsung...all great batteries. I buy all my batteries from Orbtronic. ) ( a USA distributor ) Two quality high capacity cells should cost you about $15. USD


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Sam Handwich said:


> Eesh...ok, I know it wasn't the point you were making, but this does kinda sour me on it a bit. The Cat Eye AMPP1100 is about the same price. Maybe that one, or something else in the ~$100 range. Guess I'll do a bit more looking!


For what it's worth the original mount for my PR900 (same version mount that CMD has) had a slight loose fit and rattled a little (fixed by using tape as a shim) but I never had any slippage issues (the light was used on several of my bikes). Looking through the Amazon reviews mount problems were mentioned, at least on the older reviews but overall the PR1200 was rated at 4.5 out of 5 stars so pretty positive. I bought a couple of upgraded Ravemen replacement mounts that fit 35mm bars (Ravemen site shows this as standard now) and have had zero issues as they fit the slide mount of all my Ravemen lights tightly and also do not slip on any of the bars I've tried them on. Something I noticed on the Amazon PR1200 listings is they show the old mount in the specs. so I would at least contact them on that because you don't want new old stock on lights with non-replaceable batteries. Ravemen says they are getting a new US distributor but haven't shared that info with me yet but a couple of reliable sources popped up today while I was doing some research concerning this thread.

https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/ravemen-pr1200-front-light

https://www.westernbikeworks.com/product/ravemen-pr1200-front-light

It's been a while since I've dealt with biketiresdirect but they were a reliable vendor in the past for me and would likely be able to get you your light quicker than skyben off Amazon. Western Bike Works I buy from all the time but show the PR1200 as out of stock temporarily. They also have sales all the time so may be able to get these at a discounted price from time to time. They only have a few of the Ravemen lights listed but I'm going to contact them to see if they plan on carrying the full line plus the accessories.
Mole


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

MRMOLE said:


> For what it's worth the original mount for my PR900 (same version mount that CMD has) had a slight loose fit and rattled a little (fixed by using tape as a shim) but I never had any slippage issues (the light was used on several of my bikes). Looking through the Amazon reviews mount problems were mentioned, at least on the older reviews but overall the PR1200 was rated at 4.5 out of 5 stars so pretty positive. I bought a couple of upgraded Ravemen replacement mounts that fit 35mm bars (Ravemen site shows this as standard now) and have had zero issues as they fit the slide mount of all my Ravemen lights tightly and also do not slip on any of the bars I've tried them on....


Thanks MRM. I will note that for future reference. The PR1200 I have was one of the early versions and was given to me for free for review purposes some years ago. I should also note that my MTB is somewhere around 20 years old. My handlebars are likely not as wide as the newer versions which meant I had to use more than one shim. Likely the main reason it tended to move. At some point I'll likely give the one I have away for free since I got it for free. If I do I'll be sure to first get one of the upgraded mounts since you claim they work better.

Last night while taking a late night road / MUP ride, I came up real fast on a guy riding a mountain bike ( on the MUP ). I probably scared the crap out of him as he had no lights at all and I was running both bar and helmet lamps, not to mention all the other lights I have all over my bike including wheel lights. As I called out to pass him I kind of felt sorry for the guy because he was riding in complete darkness with only the light from near by buildings filtering through the trees. Was a wonder he wasn't killing himself because the trail at that spot was weaving all over the place.

Anyway I was wishing I had brought an extra light along that I could of given away. I have more than a few cheap lights just gathering dust that I bought on Amazon as well as others bought from other sources. Heck, I might as well give them away cause I'll never use them. Since my road setup has a rear rack box, no real problem carrying the extra light along.

Funny, but I remember once ( years and years ago ) when I was night riding my MTB bike on one of my favorite trails ( late at night ) and once again came upon a young guy riding a cheap mountain bike and using just a small mini Maglite flashlight. I remember thinking at the time that it would of been real nice if I could of given him just my old original Magicshine light which I no longer used. Would of made his day ( or night in this case ) and provided 10 times the light his dinky flashlight was putting out.


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## Sam Handwich (Nov 22, 2018)

MRMOLE said:


> For what it's worth the original mount for my PR900 (same version mount that CMD has) had a slight loose fit and rattled a little (fixed by using tape as a shim) but I never had any slippage issues (the light was used on several of my bikes). Looking through the Amazon reviews mount problems were mentioned, at least on the older reviews but overall the PR1200 was rated at 4.5 out of 5 stars so pretty positive. I bought a couple of upgraded Ravemen replacement mounts that fit 35mm bars (Ravemen site shows this as standard now) and have had zero issues as they fit the slide mount of all my Ravemen lights tightly and also do not slip on any of the bars I've tried them on. Something I noticed on the Amazon PR1200 listings is they show the old mount in the specs. so I would at least contact them on that because you don't want new old stock on lights with non-replaceable batteries. Ravemen says they are getting a new US distributor but haven't shared that info with me yet but a couple of reliable sources popped up today while I was doing some research concerning this thread.
> 
> https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/ravemen-pr1200-front-light
> 
> ...


Ok, well, after a bit more research I ordered one from biketiresdirect. Thanks for the help (Cat as well), and I will update when I've tried it out!


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Sam Handwich said:


> Ok, well, after a bit more research I ordered one from biketiresdirect. Thanks for the help (Cat as well), and I will update when I've tried it out!


If you've never used a lamp with a remote you are going to love it. If you use the lamp in MTB mode ( both LED's on at the same time ) the lamp works as a very useful three mode lamp that provides a nice wide beam pattern as well as a respectable amount of forward throw. Coupled with the Ceco on the helmet you should be able to see very well both far and near. ( The flash modes on the PR-1200 are only available when used in single LED mode. ) If you use both lights in their second to brightest modes you should have no problems seeing anything and be able to extend the run time. Not sure what the run time is on the Ceco on it's second brightest mode but the PR-1200 in it's second brightest MTB mode should be 3.5hrs.

Now about the PR-1200's digital display; The display will show you the run time in half hour increments until you get to the last hour in the mode you are in. At that point it will show changes in 10th's of an hour. With the digital display you don't have to worry about running out of battery power as long as you know the trails you are riding on and the expected time you need to ride.

There are of course better and brighter lights out there worth owning but the combo we've been talking about is a great place to start for riding moderate trails and keeping to a tight budget.


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## Sam Handwich (Nov 22, 2018)

Cat-man-do said:


> If you've never used a lamp with a remote you are going to love it. If you use the lamp in MTB mode ( both LED's on at the same time ) the lamp works as a very useful three mode lamp that provides a nice wide beam pattern as well as a respectable about of forward throw. Coupled with the Ceco on the helmet you should be able to see very well both far and near. ( The flash modes on the PR-1200 are only available when used in single LED mode. ) If you use both lights in their second to brightest modes you should have no problems seeing anything and be able to extend the run time. Not sure what the run time is on the Ceco on it's second brightest mode but the PR-1200 in it's second brightest MTB mode should be 3.5hrs.
> 
> Now about the PR-1200's digital display; The display will show you the run time in half hour increments until you get to the last hour in the mode you are in. At that point it will show changes in 10th's of an hour. With the digital display you don't have to worry about running out of battery power as long as you know the trails you are riding on and the expected time you need to ride.
> 
> There are of course better and brighter lights out there worth owning but the combo we've been talking about is a great place to start for riding moderate trails and keeping to a tight budget.


Awesome thanks! Tell me more about what you like about the remote. I didn't really see the point, so I'm curious!


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Sam Handwich said:


> Awesome thanks! Tell me more about what you like about the remote. I didn't really see the point, so I'm curious!


Not having to remove your hands from the grips to change brightness levels is the main advantage. You can also activate the brightest mode from any setting by doing a press and hold on the remote though I don't recall ever using that feature. The remote button also has a nice feel and functions well, so easy to use as are the light body's mode buttons.
Mole


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

My buddy bought a Lumina 1800. Man it's got a super nice beam and is bright, I'd say it's real 1800 lumens. It's sweet!! FYI. And of course backed by Niterider.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

mb323323 said:


> My buddy bought a Lumina 1800. Man it's got a super nice beam and is bright, I'd say it's real 1800 lumens. It's sweet!! FYI. And of course backed by Niterider.


Yes, that is why I mentioned it. It is though a bit more expensive but like you said brighter and with a nice custom lens to spread out the light. Raveman has a PR-1600 and that is likely pretty nice as well. The PR-1600 I think is using a wireless remote. MTB mid mode on the PR-1600 is like 800 lumens and will run at 2 hrs at that level. That is decent run time at that level. That said I'd prefer the MTB mid mode of the 1200 because 600 lumen is very useful and runs for much longer.

*@ ham sandwich*; ....._MR. Underground_ (  ) pretty much explained the other function of the remote but I'll add a bit more. If you are in* single LED mode *you can "press and hold" the remote and it will activate both LED's for your maximum ( 1200 lumen ) boost mode. _Let go and it goes back to the last mode used. _ In MTB mode ( with both LED's on ) it will work the same way. If you just want a momentary burst of high just press and hold and then let go and it goes back to the last mode used. Otherwise in MTB mode you just give a quick press of the button and the light cycles through the different brightness levels and then repeats ( H-M-L...H-M-L... )

If you use the single LED mode pretty much works the same way as the MTB mode but there is one extra low mode and then a fade in/out mode. The single LED mode gives you the option to really extend run time if you think you are running low on battery.

Like I mentioned before, if the wired remote doesn't reach as far as you need it too ( some bikes have longer handlebars ) you can buy a micro-USB extension and that will solve the issue.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Cat-man-do said:


> Yes, that is why I mentioned it. It is though a bit more expensive but like you said brighter and with a nice custom lens to spread out the light.


I got to use a Lumina 1800 for a couple of weeks earlier this year and yes, nice light!



> Raveman has a PR-1600 and that is likely pretty nice as well. The PR-1600 I think is using a wireless remote.


Yes on the remote

.


> MTB mid mode on the PR-1600 is like 800 lumens and will run at 2 hrs at that level. That is decent run time at that level. That said I'd prefer the MTB mid mode of the 1200 because 600 lumen is very useful and runs for much longer.


Well that is what Ravemen claims but I find it odd that the PR1600 will only do 2hrs. @ 800 lumens while the PR1200 will do 2hrs. @ 1200 lumens (Hi mode) with the same emitters and smaller batteries???
Mole


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

MRMOLE said:


> .... I find it odd that the PR1600 will only do 2hrs. @ 800 lumens while the PR1200 will do 2hrs. @ 1200 lumens (Hi mode) with the same emitters and smaller batteries???
> Mole


Yes, that is quite odd especially when you consider the PR1600 is suppose to use batteries with higher capacity ( 2 x 3000mAh cells ).  Since the max output on MTB mode is 1600 lumen @ 1.4 hrs. you would think half the output ( 800 lumen ) would be more like 2.8 hrs. Would be nice to know the reason why it is only 2hrs.

The only thing I can think of that might explain that is that the driver on the PR1600 is less efficient (?). That might be because the driver on the PR1600 has to power other circuits that drain away some of the battery power ( wireless receiver and USB-C charging port )...Nope if I were to buy one I would definitely want the mid MTB mode to run more than two hours.

The easy fix for this of course would be to use batteries with even more capacity like the newest Panasonic NCR18650G 3600mAh cells. 800 lumen on medium would nice but not at the expense of only having 2 hrs of run time. 2.5 hrs. and I'd be happy.


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## sandro87 (Oct 20, 2019)

mb323323 said:


> My buddy bought a Lumina 1800. Man it's got a super nice beam and is bright, I'd say it's real 1800 lumens. It's sweet!! FYI. And of course backed by Niterider.


Does it have a beam to not disturb other people? Otherwise that brightness could really be dangerous.


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## zapotec (Jul 21, 2020)

Cat-man-do said:


> *The Cat Eye AMPP1100* doesn't seem to be getting great reviews. *The Niterider Lumina Dual 1800 Headlight* has gotten some pretty good reviews although it is a bit expensive. *I personally like the look of the Fenix BC30 V2.* This lamp looks like it has everything you could want except digital display. That said if I didn't own the lamps I already own and wanted a dual emitter self-contained lamp I'd buy one of these real fast. Looks to have a great UI and a wireless ( two button ) remote as well. Even better the lamp allows in the field switching of batteries if you wish to do so. All you need is a couple extra 18650s and you never have to worry about running out of battery juice. The mount is similar to the Raveman PR's but looks a little more beefy. If it were me I'd go with the Fenix in a heartbeat.
> 
> ( Note; The price on the Fenix doesn't include batteries. No problem you can buy quality batteries from Orbtronic, your choice 18650 Panasonic, LG or Samsung...all great batteries. I buy all my batteries from Orbtronic. ) ( a USA distributor ) Two quality high capacity cells should cost you about $15. USD


Hello Mr Cat,

As a user who had used those mentioned headlight in person, I think I can put some my opinion after using them for awhile.










*Fenix BC30 V2*

Solid construction, all metal housing, feels more like a tactical flashlight rather than a bike light due it is construction.

I also would point out rather than 2200 lumens, I think it's more appropriate to call it 1500 Lumens because by default 2200 Lumens mode only available through wireless remote for 30 seconds. Also worth mentioned this *light has no memory mode, unless using a remote switch when connection initialized*. When using switch, it would remember the last mode being used, but if operating this light directly by pressing button on top body are simply returning to the lowest beam output by default.

*For battery, it's recommended to use 70mm height cells, because standard flat top isn't tight enough for cells contact.* It works, but in trail it might rattle so I not recommend it. Fenix advertised BC30 V2 should use with protected cells, that's why the battery hatch is longer because it was designed to use with protected cells in minds.

I am using LGMJ1 LGDBMJ11865 3500 mAh with additional protected circuit. I choose those batteries because somehow genuine expensive (ouch) Fenix 3500 mAh batteries are re-wrap from those cells. Save significant bucks by using any quality battery, just keep in minds, it need extra height by using DIY protected circuit.



















For beam shot, haha...I think Ravemen PR1200 still blow out BC30 V2 at real world usage. BC30 V2 is indeed wider, but beam profile is more like typical flashlight with hotspot / corona /spill when looking in person. Light carpet is uneven. Ravemen PR1200 are less wide, but smooth transition between flood and throw are most pleased for my eyes, producing great light carpet.

*Cat Eye AMP1100*

Yes, it has many drawbacks, but it doesn't mean sucks. Let's talk about weakness first.

Battery. Yes, *it has very tiny 2500 mAh capacity*, looking at emitters, they looks like CREE XP-G3 (CatEye have never stated specific CREE model in their headlight) so this is just my assumption. Color tint is too cool in my taste, even it was cooler than SST-40 N5 Speciality White in BC30 V2.

Heat is also problem here, since it have two pieces construction like Gaciron, it heated up easily. Personally, I not fond of construction like this, splitting ABS body for battery and leave the tiny metal surface of headlight body. Much like Serfas E-Lume 1600, it also suffers from a typical heat issue like this because lack of metal surface for cooling.

Also, I afraid AMP1100 is using proprietary format battery instead of standard 18650 cells. The servicing must be a PITA when battery life reaching the end of the cycle.

For nice stuff, this light is lightweight and compact, just slightly longer a bit than Ravemen PR1200. Due small battery this guy are charge fast. Lens are TIR with clear and surrounding by frosted surface. *The beam profile is lack of throw, but it was exceptionally smooth wide flood.* Unfortunately flashing /strobe group are not hidden, but it has a double click feature to instantly switch to max output to make it up. I would put lowest 400 Lumens, just double clicks for instant burst when I needed, and it would stay in max mode indefinitely (unlike 30 seconds on BC30V2), single click to exit and return to previous mode. Quite handy.

*Bonus : Compatible with wired remote from Ravemen/Gaciron.* Two clicks instant burst activation are more breeze. Battery light indicator is also less glowing, suitable for folks who had OCD with brightly shined button.

Unfortunately, I didn't take the individual beam shot on the trail while testing. Such I do the comparison, I need to take those lights, but since all of them have different, unique mount, changing in pitch a dark trail are quite cumbersome...unless I had made them using same mount.

Additionally, planning to get myself Ravemen PR1600 but a price is quite high, not mentioning my PR1200 battery are starting to dud. I wonder if I can replace with higher capacity cells...


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## HollyBoni (Dec 27, 2016)

andychrist said:


> Sofirn SP36 BLF Anduril 2x d-c-fix Milky Self-Adhesive Privacy Film by andyXchrist, on Flickr


Hey Andy,

I've read that the SP36 runs quite hot. Just approximately what kind of lumen output can it hold for longer periods of time with a bit of airflow on the bike, on let's say a summer night?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

zapotec said:


> Hello Mr Cat,
> 
> As a user who had used those mentioned headlight in person, I think I can put some my opinion after using them for awhile.
> 
> ...


I'm surprised that Fenix recommended using protected cells. I would tend to think most lamps like this would have the protection circuitry built into the lamp ( like some of the better torches )

Since you are a collector of bike lights you probably already know this but you can add height to a flat top battery by using a small magnet ( available and sold on Amazon and where I bought mine ).

BTW, welcome to MTBR bike light forums Mr. Zap. Always nice to hear from people who have knowledge of some of the lights that others ( including me ) don't own.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

HollyBoni said:


> Hey Andy,
> 
> I've read that the SP36 runs quite hot. Just approximately what kind of lumen output can it hold for longer periods of time with a bit of airflow on the bike, on let's say a summer night?


Point well made. I just looked at the Youtube review and the lamp steps down significantly just after two minutes. Since I just reviewed the Sofirn IR25A ( 4 x LED's ) mine kinda' does the same thing. Since this was my first experience using a torch with more than one LED it could be that torches that use multiple LEDs just can't dissipate the heat fast enough to maintain a steady output.

Right now I'm considering buying one of the Astrolux torches ( three LED's ) that might handle the heat better simply because it's designed to use 26650 cells ( bigger body = more area to dissipate heat ). Since I want something for the helmet this might be bigger than I would like but with that said I wouldn't have to use 26650 cell unless I wanted to. Just use an 18650 adapter for less weight. Still, I rather have a torch designed for 21700 cells. Right now my Fireflies E07 is great on the bars and the Fireflies E01 ( one SST-40 ) makes for a great helmet lamp. Both use 21700's. Just wish Luminus made a NW version of the SST-40 in the 4500K range. 

With that said, I did see an E01 being sold with a 5000K SST-40 about a month ago. I was going to order one of those but now I can't find it with that LED. The 5700K is what most are sold with. Actually, I rode with the E01 just the other night and I might just forget about torches with multiple LED's for helmet use. If you're going to use a torch with a single led ( on the helmet ) it just might be better to at least use something in the 5000 Kelvin range just so it gives you a bit better distance throw.


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## HollyBoni (Dec 27, 2016)

Cat-man-do said:


> Point well made. I just looked at the Youtube review and the lamp steps down significantly just after two minutes. Since I just reviewed the Sofirn IR25A ( 4 x LED's ) mine kinda' does the same thing. Since this was my first experience using a torch with more than one LED it could be that torches that use multiple LEDs just can't dissipate the heat fast enough to maintain a steady output.


I'm no expert, but I read that with the right heat sink and head design, multiple leds could actually be beneficial when it comes to heat management compared to a single, more powerful led.
From what i've seen most single led flashlights that put out tons of light usually step down as well, unless they're large and heavy. 
I find it funny tho when flashlights are advertised as 5000-6000lm, and in reality they can barely sustain a 1000lm for longer periods of time because of heat management issues...


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Don't think it has a DND beam but I would only use the NR1800 on a trail anyhow. I rode last nite w/ my buddy and took a closer look at the light beam pattern and throw. And it both throws and spreads. We both agreed you wouldn't be able to out run the light. It's that bright but no hot spot, just a lotta light focused on and down the trail. I don't have one but tempted for sure. 

Would be cool to see a shootout of the best newer self contained lights like this. Maybe the Raveman 1600 and this plus whatever you guys feel can compete.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

HollyBoni said:


> I'm no expert, but I read that with the right heat sink and head design, multiple leds could actually be beneficial when it comes to heat management compared to a single, more powerful led.
> From what i've seen most single led flashlights that put out tons of light usually step down as well, unless they're large and heavy.
> I find it funny tho when flashlights are advertised as 5000-6000lm, and in reality they can barely sustain a 1000lm for longer periods of time because of heat management issues...


Most torches were never designed with bike light use in mind. That said I have found by just buying a number of torches that many have been and continue to to very useful as bike lights. Most of those were torches that use a single emitter and they worked very well. For obvious reasons though you can't always run a torch on it's highest mode for too long because most torches don't provide enough material to dissipate all the heat, even ones with just one emitter. That said some have some very useful medium modes or can actual produce a high output for a good number of minutes before the heat begins to effect the emitter. Like you said, the better the design the longer it can run on high without significant drop of output. I should also add that some of the better LED's handle heat better than others.

Doesn't make sense to buy a torch that advertises 4000 lumen and then drops to less than 1K lumen within a couple minutes. Almost any torch capable of producing over 1000 lumen will eventually drop some output if on max settings. The big question is, "How much will it drop"? That's why it makes sense to pay attention to reviews that actually measure drop in output over time.

My two favorite torches for use on the helmet are the Convoy M1 and the Fireflies E01. I own three of the M1's. Both the M1 with 5000K XP-L HI and the M1 with 7000K XP-L HI are super bright. Both of those though were bought from a dealer who customized the body for better heat sinking and a driver for better output. I have used them MTBing and they are awesome. The M1 I bought from Banggood with 4000K XP-L HI is just not quite bright enough to satisfy me. I think if it had a driver capable of supplying a little more than 3A it might actually be much more useful. Still, a single emitter torch with something in the 5000K range might be better if you want to see farther. The Fireflies E01 is using just a single SST-40 Led. Although I wish there was an SST-40 emitter in the 4500K range it might actual work better with the emitter it is already using.

The next time I ride MTB at night I'll likely take the Banggood Convoy M1 4000K out for a test again, hopefully under dryer conditions ( rained half of the day again yesterday ). However this time I'll bring the E01 for back-up if I feel I'm not getting enough output from the cheap Bangood M1. If you routinely ride wet trails more output becomes more important. Having the perfect NW tint is nice but doesn't matter if the light doesn't carry far enough to be useful. So far from what I've seen both of my Fireflies torches seem to have some pretty bright output and good beam patterns. I do need to do some more testing though on trails. Sadly the weather for the last three months where I live has not been very conducive for Mountain biking. Either it's been "heat stroke" weather or daily monsoons.


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## HollyBoni (Dec 27, 2016)

Thanks for the long reply Cat-man-do.

I have a Convoy M1 XM-L2 as well as my main light. Stock Convoy 3/5 mode driver. I'm going to buy an A17DD driver for it. I also have a Convoy C8 thrower that I sometimes put next to the M1 on the bars, mainly just for fun. 

TBH even when I only have the M1 on the bars I can happily ride pretty much everything I want. I find that I like to tilt up my lights a bit and see further.

I've been thinking about getting a big boy 26650 light with more output and a small and lightweight helmet light. I don't really need it but I always wanted to try a more powerful light just for fun. :lol: But so far it's just an idea and i'm doing research, looking at reviews etc.
I was just surprised to see how so many bigger, heavier flashlights can barely sustain ~1500 lumens. I just don't really understand these super high, 2 minute turbo modes. Even off the bike I don't see a lot of use for it, other than impressing friends. :lol:

I looked at the Convoy M3 (thinking it's a beefier version of the M1) and for example this thing can hold ~1400lm for a looooong time. I'd be interested to see how long it could go with a high capacity 26650 as opposed to the 18650 that was used in the review where the picture below is from. 
Sadly the M3 has a very bare bones UI and doesn't have any modes between 100% and the 40% that gives you ~1400lm. It's pretty darn cheap tho.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

HollyBoni said:


> Thanks for the long reply Cat-man-do.
> 
> I have a Convoy M1 XM-L2 as well as my main light. Stock Convoy 3/5 mode driver. I'm going to buy an A17DD driver for it. I also have a Convoy C8 thrower that I sometimes put next to the M1 on the bars, mainly just for fun.
> 
> ...


Seeing that you mention using the Convoy M1 on the bars I'm going to assume you are looking for another light that might work better on the bars. The Convoy M3 you mention looks interesting. The one I looked at on a Youtube review was using a 6500K Cree XHP70 V2 emitter. It does use a 26650 type cell that you are apparently interesting in. From the video I watched the M3 doesn't appear to have super throw but on it's medium mode it should be enough light to use on the bars. The one the reviewer had was using a different UI than the one you mention which looked half way decent. Still, I was not impressed with the overall throw but that's only because I'm more or less shopping for a helmet thrower. Like I said before though, should work well on the bars.

The only other thing I didn't like about the M3 was that it didn't appear that it was being sold with anything other than a 6500K ( Kelvin ) emitter. Personally I like having a choice of emitter tint when buying a torch as I prefer a warmer tint when mountain biking. Otherwise I'm fine using a cooler tint when on the road.

Backtracking a bit on the conversation we had on buying a torch with multiple emitters: After buying one myself, looking at the other options online and checking out the reviews, I've come to the conclusion that most of these are not worth using as a mountain bike light. The more emitters you have the more heat sources you have. On the higher output levels these type of torches heat up super fast and turn into a branding iron within minutes. At high levels of heat the output drops like a rock which pretty much makes it useless as a MTB light IMO. That said I've decided to stick with a torch that is only using one emitter for helmet use. For helmet use you want something that is not too heavy and yet will produce a confined but not too spotty beam pattern. My personal requirements for a helmet torch is that on it's highest mode it be able to throw 200 ft. and do it in such a way that I can see clearly at that range. The second to highest mode should let me see well into the 150 ft. range. Both the Convoy M1 I have ( using a Cree XP-L HI 5000K emitter ) and the Fireflies E01 ( using an SST-40 5700K emitter ) are light enough in weight and both seem to make excellent helmet torches. The M1 has the better throw but the E01 has the advantage of using a 21700 cell for more capacity / run time as well as using the Anduril UI which can allow you more flexibility in setting the output level you wish to use. The M1 is a little more easier to use on the helmet since it uses a rear clicky switch. Still, I'm hard pressed to say one is overall better than the other.

Since you did say you want a brighter bar torch you might consider the 7-LED Fireflies E07 that I have reviewed. Yes it is using multi-emitters but this one seems to have better heat sinking / heat dissipation abilities. Doesn't use a 26650 cell but does use a 21700 which gives it some pretty good run times. ( there are now 21700 cells with over 5000mAh capacity and that ain't bad ). I bought my torch directly from the Fireflies website and had the choice of emitter type. I chose a warmer tint using the Cree XP-L Hi. If you like a cooler tint I would recommend the same emitter but in either 5000K or 6500K. One of those should be brighter and have even more throw than the one I have.....And, need I say, work very well on the bars. I will note though that you will have to reset the thermal settings like I did as it made a big difference when running higher output levels. The default thermal regulation setting is only 30°C. You need more like 85°C. Might take you a couple tries getting it set right but there are instructive videos on Youtube that will walk you through doing the thermal setting. ( Yes, my posts are very long sometimes... )


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## HollyBoni (Dec 27, 2016)

Yep, I want a more powerful bar light mainly just because/for fun etc. , and i'd like to try a helmet light. I might try the M1 on my helmet, although i'd like something that's as light as possible. 
I'll take a look at the Fireflies too, thanks. 

I found another review of the Convoy M3 where the tester used a 5000mAh 26650 cell, and the light could hold a rock steady ~1400 lumens for 2 hours with a very steady low-ish temperature, that's pretty impressive (to me at least). The only downside is that the light is pretty chunky, it's 290g. I guess it's an upside and downside, since the weight is probably the reason why it can deal with heat well. 

Like most Convoy lights, the M3 comes in a few versions from 3000k to 6500k. (When looking at Convoy stuff it's always best to check their official store on Aliexpress).
It has a very basic UI. 1%, 10%, 40% (this is the 1400-1500 lumen mode) and a 100% that is temperature regulated (pretty aggressively).
However, word on the street is that there is an updated M3 on the way with a new UI and USB charging. I think i'm gonna wait for that.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

HollyBoni said:


> I've read that the SP36 runs quite hot. Just approximately what kind of lumen output can it hold for longer periods of time with a bit of airflow on the bike, on let's say a summer night?


~ 3000 Lumen in winter up to 4000 Lumen.



HollyBoni said:


> I looked at the Convoy M3 (thinking it's a beefier version of the M1) and for example this thing can hold ~1400lm for a looooong time. I'd be interested to see how long it could go with a high capacity 26650 as opposed to the 18650 that was used in the review where the picture below is from.


~2 Hours and 10 minutes with a shockli 26650 5500mah.

over all the Driver by itself have a very great performance and efficenzy.
the beam to is very great, i have by last year the 4000 kelvin version to check it out.

the convoy M3 delivers at the 1400 lumen setting an eff grade of ~170 lumen/watt.

but for biking this light is not very interessting.

empty convoy M3 weigh *300 gramm*!!!!!
with the 26650 you will have *400 g*!!!

for 1400 lumen for 2 hours you must carry 400 gramms....

last year i told one of the best options.

*sofirn SD05 for ~20$*.

*empty light 120 gramm!!!*
with battery *170 g*!!

this tiny toy delivers only 1000 Lumen in medium mode but same like the M3 on a very high eff grade and same like the M3 *full brightness regulated*!!!!

the tiny and very cheap SD05 grants you 1000 lumen for 2,5 Hours fully regulated!!!!!

in the range of under 50$ this light have with his top performance still no real challanger.

if you are looking for a great deal in a very small price range SD05 is the way to go.:thumbsup:


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## HollyBoni (Dec 27, 2016)

lostplaces said:


> ~ 3000 Lumen in winter up to 4000 Lumen.


3000??? Dang, that's impressive! 

Thanks for the SD05 suggestion. Sorry, I don't want to sound like a smartass, but I know that there are plenty of smaller lights that can happily hold a ~1000 lumens for longer periods on the bike. I have a Convoy M1 with the 7135*8 driver which puts out around ~800-850 lumens and it can happily run on 100% on the bike. So i'm looking for a bigger step up, to around 1500-2000 lumens. I'm hungry for lumens, I guess i'm a junkie. :lol:

Yeah the weight of the M3 is a bit worrying. Although sometimes I ride with both an M1 and a C8 on the bars. The weight of that combo with batteries is ~355g. To be honest I can't tell the difference when I have 1 light on the bars, or 2 lights, or no lights at all. :crazy:

BTW I see 2000-3000lm ratings on bike lights that use battery packs. Are these ratings generally BS, or can these things really put out that much light without overheating? I see teeny tiny lights stuffed with 2 XM-L2 leds for example. How do lights like that not catch on fire after 5 minutes?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

HollyBoni said:


> 3000???
> BTW I see 2000-3000lm ratings on bike lights that use battery packs. Are these ratings generally BS, or can these things really put out that much light without overheating? I see teeny tiny lights stuffed with 2 XM-L2 leds for example. How do lights like that not catch on fire after 5 minutes?


Yes, the rating are usually BS but there are exceptions. Something like this inexpensive Nitefighter BT21 (unfortunately no longer produced) will happily produce a measured 1500+ lumens in just under 100°F ambient temperatures as long as it has air flow (custom mount will add another 10° on top of that).
Mole


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## HollyBoni (Dec 27, 2016)

MRMOLE said:


> Yes, the rating are usually BS but there are exceptions. Something like this inexpensive Nitefighter BT21 (unfortunately no longer produced) will happily produce a measured 1500+ lumens in just under 100°F ambient temperatures as long as it has air flow (custom mount will add another 10° on top of that).
> Mole


Interesting. My Convoy M1 has 1 XM-L2, but it gets pretty warm on the bike (not dangerously warm, it can happily live at a 100% on the bike). Maybe it's the orientation of the heatsink that helps? Or what's the secret?


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## goatman (Nov 14, 2004)

HollyBoni said:


> BTW I see 2000-3000lm ratings on bike lights that use battery packs. Are these ratings generally BS, or can these things really put out that much light without overheating? I see teeny tiny lights stuffed with 2 XM-L2 leds for example. How do lights like that not catch on fire after 5 minutes?


There is no way the KD BL2S pushes out 2000-3000lumens; these lights step down before heating up significantly, especially in a hot environment and riding at low speeds. My Convoy S3 gets way hot :madmax:


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## HollyBoni (Dec 27, 2016)

goatman said:


> There is no way the KD BL2S pushes out 2000-3000lumens; these lights step down before heating up significantly, especially in a hot environment and riding at low speeds. My Convoy S3 gets way hot :madmax:


Yes, S2s and S3s get very hot. Tiny head, no fins. Maybe look into doing something like this:

Keeping your Convoy S2+ 8xAMC7135 cool during bike ride with a quick snap/slide on mod | BudgetLightForum.com


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

HollyBoni said:


> Interesting. My Convoy M1 has 1 XM-L2, but it gets pretty warm on the bike (not dangerously warm, it can happily live at a 100% on the bike). Maybe it's the orientation of the heatsink that helps? Or what's the secret?

















Here's a shot of the top of the lighthead so you can see the cooling fin arrangement + the internal setup for the emitter board and generous thermal path contact area. Finned area is pretty much the back side of the area that supports the emitter board so thermal path is also very short and efficient. The light still runs hot in 100° weather, just not so hot that it activates the thermal protection. 
Mole


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

HollyBoni said:


> Yep, I want a more powerful bar light mainly just because/for fun etc. , and i'd like to try a helmet light. I might try the M1 on my helmet, although i'd like something that's as light as possible.
> I'll take a look at the Fireflies too, thanks.
> 
> I found another review of the Convoy M3 where the tester used a 5000mAh 26650 cell, and the light could hold a rock steady ~1400 lumens for 2 hours with a very steady low-ish temperature, that's pretty impressive (to me at least). The only downside is that the light is pretty chunky, it's 290g. I guess it's an upside and downside, since the weight is probably the reason why it can deal with heat well.
> ...


I looked at specs of the Convoy M3 on the Ailexpress Convoy store. It is tempting. If I bought one I could get one with an 4000K XHP-70.2 emitter. 
Maximum output probably more near 3500 lumen for the 4000K emitter. The second mode down should therefore be somewhere near 1400 lumen which would be sweet. However the deal killer for me is the UI. That's because after that the next mode down is 10% of max. Likely something like 300 lumen. That sucks. Would be nice to have a mid mode like 800 lumen. Add to that it takes an 26650 cell and no doubt I'd notice the extra weight / higher center of gravity which of course might make my helmet slide around more easily on my head. "Too bad Convoy doesn't make an 21700 version using the XHP-70.2 with a better UI.  Now if it had an Anduril UI I might have been willing to over look the weight issue.


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## HollyBoni (Dec 27, 2016)

MRMOLE said:


> Here's a shot of the top of the lighthead so you can see the cooling fin arrangement + the internal setup for the emitter board and generous thermal path contact area. Finned area is pretty much the back side of the area that supports the emitter board so thermal path is also very short and efficient. The light still runs hot in 100° weather, just not so hot that it activates the thermal protection.
> Mole


Thanks for the pics!



Cat-man-do said:


> I looked at specs of the Convoy M3 on the Ailexpress Convoy store. It is tempting. If I bought one I could get one with an 4000K XHP-70.2 emitter.
> Maximum output probably more near 3500 lumen for the 4000K emitter. The second mode down should therefore be somewhere near 1400 lumen which would be sweet. However the deal killer for me is the UI. That's because after that the next mode down is 10% of max. Likely something like 300 lumen. That sucks. Would be nice to have a mid mode like 800 lumen. Add to that it takes an 26650 cell and no doubt I'd notice the extra weight / higher center of gravity which of course might make my helmet slide around more easily on my head. "Too bad Convoy doesn't make an 21700 version using the XHP-70.2 with a better UI.  Now if it had an Anduril UI I might have been willing to over look the weight issue.


A 400g helmet light would be brutal. :lol:

Yes, the UI is the biggest problem. I read on budget light forums that Convoy is bringing out a new version of the M3 with an updated UI and built in charging. Not sure if that's actually true but I know Convoy likes to update their lights. I don't think any of their lights have a super fancy UI tho. I think the best they offer is Biscotti. It's okay but there are better UIs out there for sure.

If the M3 had an 800lm mode, and something like 2000-2500lm, that would be amazing.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

goatman said:


> There is no way the KD BL2S pushes out 2000-3000lumens; these lights step down before heating up significantly, especially in a hot environment and riding at low speeds. My Convoy S3 gets way hot :madmax:


The BL2S and KD2 are similiar to near all 2x XM-L2 lights on the market, with ~50 gram in this style.

~14 Watt draw from a pack ~1100 lumen.

it have no thermal control, thermal regulation or whatever.

the only interessting part, you get it in 4000k tint=perfect for trail riding.



Cat-man-do said:


> I looked at specs of the Convoy M3 on the Ailexpress Convoy store. .......one with an 4000K XHP-70.2 emitter.
> Maximum output probably more near 3500 lumen for the 4000K emitter.





HollyBoni said:


> convoy M3......mode) and a 100% that is temperature regulated (pretty aggressively).


OK again the M3 have on high a *fix 3 minutes* step down timer so *the only ussable mode is 1400 lumen*,

forget this light, only the driver is interesting to put it in tiny bodys, can be buy in ali store.

swith the M3 you get a bulky 400 gramm monster with 2 hours ~1400 lumen.
the many times smaller and lighter SD05 delivery near similar performance!!!!

i own all of them all.

if you dont have with bulky heavy 400 gram lights on the bike a problem like me the SP36 with samsung LEDs is a good deal, and many times more interessting then the M3.








~5000 lumen max ~3000 lumen usable on the bike.

the next step up ist the emisar D18 








~14000 lumen max ~5000 lumen ussable on the bike + near the same perfect beam profile from the MF01 mini.

i hate 400 gramm bulky lights so the MF01 mini is still the best option for me.
and the beam profil ist the best for trail riding i ever have seen. 








~7000 lumen max ~2500 lumen ussable.


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## HollyBoni (Dec 27, 2016)

lostplaces said:


> OK again the M3 have on high a *fix 3 minutes* step down timer so *the only ussable mode is 1400 lumen*


Yes, i'm aware of that. I think i'll wait a bit and see if there is really a new M3 version on the way with a new UI.

Are you sure that the SP36 can hold 3000lm on the bike? That seems very high. Did you have a chance to measure it or is there a fixed mode that puts out 3000lm?
What kind of handlebar mount do you use for the SP36?

The MF01 mini looks really great as well, but again are you sure about that 2500lm? ?


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

HollyBoni said:


> Yes, i'm aware of that. I think i'll wait a bit and see if there is really a new M3 version on the way with a new UI.


never will happend, its a light for nerds, simple UI, underdriven, and never get a little bit warm.
its a simple light made for home use and for user that what it not complicated.



HollyBoni said:


> Are you sure that the SP36 can hold 3000lm on the bike? That seems very high. Did you have a chance to measure it or is there a fixed mode that puts out 3000lm??


not possible to meassure it in real world use.
or how i have to mount a light sphere on the bike, and make heavy trail downhill?

simple stuff like put at home a small fan befor is junk, in real world use much more is possible i have seen and stop this.

and yes 3000 lumen the SP36 can hold *easy* 3000L + .
=30 watt thermal heat ist nothing for a 300 gramm aluminium body outside on the bike used.

and no there is *nothing fixed* its a anduril light= anything what you want is freely costomisly.

you can set brightness modes free, thermal regulation feely and anythink other freely.

all of them use Anduril!!!!

SP36
D18
and the MF01 mini.



HollyBoni said:


> What kind of handlebar mount do you use for the SP36?


for try outs i use a clamp, that you can forget for every day use.
to flimsy.
a german member loves this light an have DIY a mount for it.

that why i write to bulky for me and thats why i use the MF01 mini.

for lights with a body under <40mm size i use the great full aregrade aluminium mount.


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## HollyBoni (Dec 27, 2016)

lostplaces said:


> never will happend, its a light for nerds, simple UI, underdriven, and never get a little bit warm.
> its a simple light made for home use and for user that what it not complicated.


Never say never, after all Convoy updated some of their lights with Biscotti, even cheap EDC style lights like the S3.  I have faith. 

Yes, I was thinking about cooling the flashlight with a fan while measuring the output, I didn't know that method was junk. 

So Anduril doesn't have "hard" steps, only ramping? Isn't holding down a button instead of just pressing it once super annoying when you want to change the output while riding? 
I was looking at the SP36 with XP-L leds and a Narsil UI. Apparently with that UI you can switch between ramping and a bunch of different mode groups with steps, that sounds pretty sweet. Anduril can't do that?

What kind of clamp is that, two scope mounts?

I was looking at Truss couplers. They have sizes from 20mm to 80mm (and probably more), they're über sturdy, pretty cheap, but probably not very light. :crazy:

Did you have to do the copper cover plate mod for the MF01 to get it to hold 2500lm on the bike?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

lostplaces said:


> i hate 400 gramm bulky lights so the MF01 mini is still the best option for me.
> and the beam profil ist the best for trail riding i ever have seen.
> 
> 
> ...


The Astrolux MF01 mini is an interesting choice. Uses 7 emitters, very similar in form factor to the Fireflies E07 I am using on the bars only the MF01 is designed to be able to use all three types of batteries...26650, 21700 and 18650. Since it can hold a 26650 that makes it bigger. That said not necessarily a bad thing if used on the bars. There are torch holders sold on ebay and Amazon that will hold a torch that uses 26650 cells.

On the Banggood website the MF01 output at max is being listed as 5500 lumen. That's using the highest Kelvin rated emitters of course. If you go with the 4000K SST-20's I'd expect the max output to be more like 3500 lumen. I like the version sold with a copper head. A bit more expensive but probably sinks heat better. The Fireflies E07 I have is using 7 x XP-L HI's ( @ 4000K ). These de-domed emitters tend to add a bit of extra throw. *I'd be interested in knowing what type of emitters your MF01 mini is using, it's Kelvin rating and where you bought it. *


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

HollyBoni said:


> What kind of clamp is that, two scope mounts?


yes ~8$ mounts that are now sold for bike use.
counterpart for adittional lights ~4$.

i have start using it ~ 1year ago and i love it.









or the lumintop B01 what i like.











HollyBoni said:


> über sturdy, pretty cheap, but probably not very light. :crazy:


...











HollyBoni said:


> Did you have to do the copper cover plate mod for the MF01 to get it to hold 2500lm on the bike?


the copper mod have nothing relevant with max output to do.
about the bad bind from the driver to the body he heats up faster and temp regulation kicks in to fast, afther all is warmed up body+driver it stabilize itself.

i show it you in s scatch that fix the copper mod, or aliminium mod.











Cat-man-do said:


> On the Banggood website the MF01 output at max is....


OK short:

2 versions are to get SST-20 and XP-L HI.

SST-20 *more throwy* then the XP-L HI about there mini LED size.

XP-L HI the better performer on the lumen side.

XP-L HI ~7000 lumen max
SST-20 ~5500 lumen max.

warmer tints always a little bit under that!

so if you are want the biggest amount of lumen over time the XP-L HI is the better choise.

now the other side, the ~8 mm lenses make the light more floody style so the much better throw from the SST-20 LEDs brings the light the better overall performance.

in my eyes the XP-L HI version is for biking a little bit to floody.

i am using the light in the 4000K SST-20 version about there fantastic tint.+ better beam then XP-L Hi= winner.

on the lumen side this version is not he ruler, but who cares.

in the 5000K the XP-L HI is the better option, SST-20 in this color range alway have some ugly discolorations like greenish........


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## HollyBoni (Dec 27, 2016)

lostplaces said:


> yes ~8$ mounts that are now sold for bike use.
> counterpart for adittional lights ~4$.
> 
> i have start using it ~ 1year ago and i love it.


What's the name of the mount(s)? Do you happen to have a link for it?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

What about the Astrolux EC01 as a more budget choice? USB-C charging built in, Anduril firmware, 21700. It doesn't have regulated output and only available in 5700k.

Then for more $ is the EC03.

As for Anduril on a bike light - I tested it running the Astrolux HL01 headlamp and while a very nice UI, it just doesn't lend itself to frequent output changes (you have to press-n-hold, guess where you are on the output % scale, you press and it goes down when you want to go up, etc.). I'd prefer a simpler 2 mode or 3 mode that I can predict where a button press will take me to.

-Garry


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Instead of close to 300g's on top o the helmet, I think you'd be better served by a separate light head and 2 cell battery. The battery can then be mounted at the back of the helmet and thus the weight is distributed better and it would feel less light than the 300g light that's self contained. My whole reason for using a Niterider Lumina is that's all I want on my noggin and I usually use a powerful bar light. But if I wanted a powerful light on the head, I'd opt for a separate battery/lighthead and balance the weight.

My .02


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

garrybunk said:


> What about the Astrolux EC01 as a more budget choice? USB-C charging built in, Anduril firmware, 21700. It doesn't have regulated output and only available in 5700k.


the EC01 was last year on of the first 3 lights on the market that comes with the new 3Volt version of the XHP50.2.

the only real downside this 3 Volt type only in Cool white avaliable.
and a little bit tint shift to green.

on the other side great overall performance on the lumen side+ usefull beam, High-quality manufacturing.
for the 25$ it was one of the bestseller from banggood and and still a great buy for the money.

some months ago sofirn realesed the SP33 V3 what is a direkt/similar challenger.
i have seen a while ago people talk about it.

i like the slimer design much more for 21700 from the EC01 and still one of the light on the market to get maximum technicaly and engineering possibility for you money.

if you not have a problem with cool white, you can not do anythink wrong with this tiny light beast.:thumbsup:

i have buy last year 2 of them but i dont like and dont use cool white LED stuff so i mod both with warm white 3 Volt LEDs.


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## HollyBoni (Dec 27, 2016)

lostplaces said:


>


How is it on the bike in terms of the output it can maintain? The EC03 looks very attractive. :yesnod:


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

lostplaces said:


> ....*2 versions are to get SST-20 and XP-L HI.*
> 
> *SST-20 more throwy then the XP-L HI about there mini LED size.*
> 
> ...


On Banggood I don't see the MF01 mini being offered with any other emitter other than the SST-20. Not sure why you think the SST-20 is better at throw since you would need to see a version of the MF01 with the XP-L HI in order to make that judgement. That said the type of optic has a lot to do with how much throw is produced as well. There really aren't any really good photos showing the front end of the MF01 mini. The one's I've looked at on Banggood only show the front with those stupid blue lights on which hides the details of the front of the lamp. I can't tell if it's using a multi-optic or multi-reflector...

Now if you look at the Fireflies E07 on Banggood the E07 is offered with both SST-20 and XPL HI. Comparing the two potential outputs at the same Kelvin rating the XPL-HI has almost twice the potential output as compared to the SST-20. The E07 is using a 25° multi-optic. _All things being equal you're going to have a hard time convincing me that the SST-20 emitter is going to out throw the XP-L HI emitter which has almost twice the lumen output as the SST-20 @ the same Kelvin rating. _

Now a 25° optic does indeed create a wide beam pattern. However because the XP-L Hi is de-domed ( and seven are being used ) you end up getting the best of both worlds. Being able to see wide is most advantageous when either road or MTB'n so long as the emitter tint is not too cold. While 25° is wide it is not so wide that I don't need a helmet lamp ( when mountain biking ). Wide is good, throw is good. Combine both in one lamp and you have something that works great on the bars.

BTW, I just ordered a pair of Samsung INR21700 40T's. ( Super high drain ) cells ( 4000mAh ). I figured maybe a bit more potential current might make an improvement in the higher output levels. Not that I need it for more maximum boost. I'm hoping it will make the E07 brighter on the lesser settings. Will be interesting to see what one does in the Sofirn IF25A I have as well. Whatever, I know it will likely make the boost on the E07 much brighter ( FWIW ).


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Hmm, that IF25A looks interesting! First time I've seen that one.

-Garry


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

Cat-man-do said:


> On Banggood I don't see the MF01 mini being offered with any other emitter other than the SST-20.


sorry have to say that the light is sold under another brand name to get the XP-L Hi.

if you look for the Mateminco MT07 you will find the XP-L HI version in asia shops.
here some pics.
https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/astrolux-mf01-mini-mateminco-mt07.69280/



Cat-man-do said:


> Not sure why you think the SST-20 is better at throw since .......


i dont think...... i say it to *you clearly*, for maximum throw the SST-20 to go.

same like in any other light of this type.
for example emisar D4S a quad version.
SST-20= max throw.

SP-G2 and XP-l Hi more floody.

or if you like it more in specs:
Mateminco MT07 XP-L Hi = 45.000 lux @1m"cool white"
Mateminco MT07 SST-20= ~55.000 [email protected]"cool white"

lower max output but higher lux reading= more throwy beam.

here a thrower version of the EC01 that i made for myself.
left original XHP50 but i shave it, an right SST-20 upgrade.









next:
the 3 LEDs that are used alot for throwers or compact sized multi emitters style lights in the 1000 Lumen LED class.

left XP-L Hi= solid throw
right =the actual heavy thrower king Osram white flat or sometimes KW called."original name is a cryptig number"
SST-20 stay in the mittle in throw possibility between them.










i modify ~20 lights in the last months with Osrams to but for bike use they junk, if you put a basic 20mm Lens befor it you get a light sabre beam.....

here just for fun actuall lights with this Osrams.....light sabre....












garrybunk said:


> Hmm, that IF25A looks interesting!




back in history:
3 years ago hank released one of the lights that change the market!!!!!
emisar D4.

40 gramms guad LED+ changable lenses, free choice of LED types, free choise of color tints, always new body colors released....
user friendly anduril on the first versions....for 30$$$$$

3 years later nothing on the market beats this 4000 lumen dragster *in the smallest* possible for faktor.

the IF25A is only a bulky copy of it..... the D4 ist still in many aspects unbeaten.

the Astrolux S43 was in the past a solid D4 copy i remeber.
great beam quality with nichia LEDs.





the MF01 mini and many others lights made now are inspired by hank. 

on youtube you will find alot reviews about the legend.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> Hmm, that IF25A looks interesting! First time I've seen that one.
> 
> -Garry


Yes, is interesting. I'm still reviewing it. Last ride it was great but I'm not sure it will work well on warmer days. Because of that I'm not going to recommend it until I use it a bit more.



lostplaces said:


> ...sorry have to say that the light is sold under another brand name to get the XP-L Hi.
> 
> if you look for the *Mateminco MT07* you will find the XP-L HI version in asia shops.
> here some pics.
> ...


Your link to the MT07 was misdirected to a German forum. I did however find a website that sold the MT07 with both SST-20 and XPL Hi.

I'm tempted to buy the SST-20 version of the Emisar D4S so I can compare it to my Sofirn IF25A ( each has 4 emitters ). The D4S though is a 26650 torch and not cheap and might feel too heavy for helmet use. Might be better to just buy the MT07 ( or MF01 mini ) since I could try it on the bars and see for my self which makes for a better bar light.

Mr. Lost, you seem to be very confident that the SST-20 has the better throw. Since this seems to be one of your hobbies I'm taking your comments seriously. I don't own a torch with the SST-20 so I will at some point buy something that is using the SST*20 just so I can see for myself if this might work better for my intended use. Just wish I could find one that is built to use just the 21700 cell and have at least 4 emitters so I could use it on the helmet.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Cat, what is your take on using Anduril firmware on a bike light? Do you find it awkward to use? Or do you, like me, use it as a "set & forget" and not attempt to change modes while riding? While I do think the firmware is great, I don't think it is well suited for bike riding.

-Garry

P.S. Getting to be that time of year again where I need to use lights!


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

Cat-man-do said:


> Your link to the MT07 was misdirected to a German forum. I did however find a website that sold the MT07 with both SST-20 and XPL Hi.


at realease date the first access point was only Taobao.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69544

now i wold take neal.
https://www.nealsgadgets.com/products/mateminco-mt07-flashlight



Cat-man-do said:


> I'm tempted to buy the SST-20 version of the Emisar D4S so I can compare it to my Sofirn IF25A ( each has 4 emitters ).


Emisar D4 = 7mm optics= very floody
Emisar D4S= 14mm optics= very throwy"to throwy for MTB"
MF01 mini= 10mm optics= perfect




garrybunk said:


> Cat, what is your take on using Anduril firmware on a bike light?........ I don't think it is well suited for bike riding.




Anduril is your problem?

i program my lights for example to a *2 mode light*.

a l*ow of my wish *and a *high mode of my wish*.

i hate for example to switch across tonns of modes, and that anduril gives me freenes *i make a 2 mode light for biking*.

the other part that i dont like ist many light have a very bad mode spacing, low is to low,......with anduril i decide the brightness of the low same like high.:thumbsup:

if you on the other side and like to switch between alot of brithness steps you can programm it to a for example *10 mode light*....

you dont like it to set what you want and not must use junky presets?

many years it was only a dream to get something like anduril is.......


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

lostplaces said:


> i dont think...... i say it to *you clearly*, for maximum throw the SST-20 to go.


From my experiences with my HL01's (XP-L & SST20) that seems correct. I didn't care much for my SST-20 version of that torch because the less than 50% lumen output vs. the XM-L version really hurt its usability for me being only 700ish lumens but it did have a higher max lux figure. Having multiple emitters would enable an SST-20 equipped light to produce the lumen output I'm looking for but I'm worried the seemingly poor efficiency of the SST-20 emitter(s) run harder to produce more lumens whould result in poor runtimes and frequent cell swaps (is this true?). Also I prefer tint closer to 5000K and am curious if there's much difference in efficiency between the 5000K and 4000K SST-20 emitters?
Mole


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

The 4000k and below sst-20's are 90 cri. 5000k and above are 70 cri. Brighter and make less heat so they can be driven harder without the light stepping down. They don't make as much light as a high bin cree but throw better because the die size is so small.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

arc said:


> The 4000k and below sst-20's are 90 cri. 5000k and above are 70 cri. Brighter and make less heat so they can be driven harder without the light stepping down. They don't make as much light as a high bin cree but throw better because the die size is so small.


Thanks! I noticed that Magicshine is using SST20 & SST40's in some levels of their new Monteer series (5 emitter) and that the entry level 3500 lumen model with SST20's actually has a higher cd value and throw distance (claimed) than the top level 8000 lumen model (XH-P50.2/XM-L2 mix). Optic beam angles are claimed to be the same so interesting how greatly emitter selection can affect beam performance characteristics in regards to throw.
Mole


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

MRMOLE said:


> I'm looking for but I'm worried the seemingly poor efficiency of the SST-20 emitter(s) run harder to produce more lumens whould result in poor runtimes and frequent cell swaps (is this true?).


poor efficiency in compare to?????



MRMOLE said:


> Also I prefer tint closer to 5000K and am curious if there's much difference in efficiency between the 5000K and 4000K SST-20 emitters?
> Mole


SST-20
2700-4000K all high CRI
5000-6500K all low CRI

Luminus for example dont offer warmer tint in low CRI others doing it.

to reach High CRI optical light quality LED company need to put much thicker phosphor layers on the emitter that result in lowering the max Lumen output.

the SST-20 LEDs lossing for example ~25%
others like for example samsung using a better method with a thiner layer and only have ~10% drop.

here you see the cool white SST-20, if you go to 10 watt you see this LED will have ~1000 Lumen output that is similar to a XM-L=4 timers bigger LED size!!!!
a great performance for its minimalistic size!!!
https://i.imgur.com/VBBASZx.png

and here you see a High CRI to compare, at 10 Watt 750 lumen output=25% losses about the bigger layers of phospor...
https://i.imgur.com/YrpqDwo.png

yes you loose some lumens on High CRI if you only looking on that stat.
but in practice you only win, much better view quality no glare, self blinding problems from cool white stuff.....

lumen counters are only one from alot aspects.:thumbsup:

one of the top performers in the High CRI range is still the samsung 351 types.
much smaller then a low CRI XM-L but similar output and great color tints in 4000K + 5000K+ high CRI.

i compared a while a go SST-20 4000K in FA3 bin with a stock 4000K high CRI and both are near similar in light quality an the best what the market offers!!!!

not only lumen counter are important.

if you only look for lumens this LEDs are *the wrong for you*.

the bigger die sized LEDs like XHP50/70,SST-70,nichia 144,....deliver many times more lumens and for example at 1000 lumen output they consume the half power!!!!

here you see the output monster.
the upper one XM-L2= 1000 lumen class
then Nichia, SST-70 and XHP50 = 3000-4000 Lumen class LEDs
https://i.imgur.com/8ZzBSk0.jpg


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

lostplaces said:


> Anduril is your problem?
> 
> i program my lights for example to a *2 mode light*.
> 
> ...




Ok, programming as a 2 mode light will work, but 3 modes or more becomes awkward. For instance, say you are in middle mode on a 3-mode program. You want to move to high mode, but your next press-n-hold goes down to low and then you have to let off the switch and press-n-hold again to go back up to medium and continue holding to get to high. I guess you could double-click to jump to "turbo", but that doesn't work if you had programmed your high mode to be anything below "turbo".

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

lostplaces said:


> poor efficiency in compare to?????


The direct comparison I was using was my SST-20 HL01 vs. my XP-L HL01. Same cell/runtime yet the SST-20's lumen output is less than half of what I'm measuring from my XP-L example. In use I see *much* better with the XP-L light so for this example the XP-L light is far more efficient in producing lumens and more importantly provides better visibility for me.



> SST-20
> 2700-4000K all high CRI
> 5000-6500K all low CRI
> 
> ...


Thanks for the lengthy detailed explanation of the different mentioned emitters output characteristics.:thumbsup: I always learn a lot from your posts and happy to see you posting here again!!! I do get that lumens aren't everything but just a one dimensional unit of measure. For cycling use most lights and torches today produce more lumens than is really necessary so lumen placement and quality of the lumens (tint/CRI) is far more important than super high output #'s. Cost of those lumens in units of energy also important for a rider like me who prefers longer rides and what I ws trying to figure out here.
Mole


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> Cat, what is your take on using Anduril firmware on a bike light? Do you find it awkward to use? Or do you, like me, use it as a "set & forget" and not attempt to change modes while riding? While I do think the firmware is great, I don't think it is well suited for bike riding.
> 
> -Garry
> 
> P.S. Getting to be that time of year again where I need to use lights!


From your last post I could tell you were wondering about that. The Anduril UI does take getting used to and there is a learning curve. I have yet to try to do any programming of the modes Like Lost Places. It does take more effort to change output if you want to reverse the output. Otherwise it's really nice to be able to dial in the exact output you wish to ride with if you're using the smooth ramping UI. It just takes a little more effort to do so and can be a little difficult if trying to ride a rough section of trail. So far the only issue I've run upon is once in a while if you hit the button too many times consecutively you change the UI from the one you were in to the other option ( ie...smooth ramping to digital ramping or vise versa ). Simple to fix though. I've taken a photo of the Anduril directions and put it on my phone just in case I forget how to fix something.

Keep in mind I much prefer my dedicated bike lights with programmable modes and remote controls. Torches are for people who like to travel lite and want something simple ( wireless ) that can still provide enough light to ride with. The down side with torches is there is almost always some kind of limitation whither it be with over heating on higher outputs or just finding the right setup that provides the beam pattern and beam tint you are looking for. So far I've been lucky. Most of the stuff I have works pretty good. You just have to remember not to run the torches at too high an output for too long or they just might over-heat. So far the only torch to give me a problem over-heating has been the Sofirn but with that said on the last ride it preformed very well and didn't over heat ( used on and off on the helmet ). Still, both my Convoy M1 and Fireflies E01 can out throw it and handle the heat better. I love the Sofirn IF25A's wide beam off the helmet though and the fact that it's a 4000K NW tint. Doesn't provide all the throw I could want but then again I can always want more throw. The 25A gets the job done with just enough throw to be useful.

With torches it's nice to have choices and with that said you can afford to buy a few and then use the ones that best suit the trails you wish to ride. .


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> Ok, programming as a 2 mode light will work, but 3 modes or more becomes awkward. For instance, say you are in middle mode on a 3-mode program. You want to move to high mode, but your next press-n-hold goes down to low and then you have to let off the switch and press-n-hold again to go back up to medium and continue holding to get to high. I guess you could double-click to jump to "turbo", but that doesn't work if you had programmed your high mode to be anything below "turbo".
> 
> -Garry


Not sure if you're around BLF much these days but Toykeeper has Anduril2 just about ready to release. Firmware's done she just needs to finish the documentation. She wants to make the user interface simpler for the average user in hopes of getting more manufacturers to use it. It should make things better for us. The thermal regulation is pretty dialed in now as well.

Also loneoceans created a three channel Anduril based driver for the FW3A, Neil has Lumintop making the driver so hopefully it makes it into a production light. No reason it won't fit in an FW1A (tiny lightweight single emitter with 1x21700 battery) which would be pretty awesome for helmet use. Channel one is just for moon. Channel two is a fairly efficient regulated buck/boost and channel three is a fet just for turbo. There's plans for firmware to disable the fet.

Currently the driver is only available at Neilsgadgets and dealing with him is a bit of a lottery, probably going to build a driver once it hits Oshpark. I built some GXB 172's, this one looks a lot easier.

Intl-outdoors stocks some of their stuff in a USA warehouse, maybe we''ll see a Noctigon equivalent at some point. Hank + Toykeeper = awesome. Kaidomain has some S2 style 21700 hosts that you can build up. I'm using a Convoy host that is a 21700 version of the C8 with a GXB202 boost driver, xhp70 and an aliexpress orange peel reflector for a bar light sometimes. Beam looks pretty good, not nasty looking like the xhp50 and is super efficient. The beam could be a bit wider for the twisty trails but is fine with a helmet light.

There's always a better flashlight just around the corner.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks for the info arc! No, I don't spend much time on BLF anymore - just no time to spend there. 

The FW1A sounds interesting, as well as the 21700 hosts. How's ordering from China been lately? I haven't ordered from overseas since Dec. 2019 I think. 

-Garry


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

arc said:


> Not sure if you're around BLF much these days but Toykeeper has Anduril2 just about ready to release. Firmware's done she just needs to finish the documentation.


but somthink like for example Zerbalight use direct acces to ea mode from off is hard to put in on a good way into anduril.



arc said:


> Also *loneoceans* created a three channel Anduril based driver for the FW3A, Neil has Lumintop making the driver . Neil has Lumintop making the driver so hopefully it makes it into a production light.....


90% of all Anduril driver come from Lexel a german member.
the MF 01 mini got one year ago from lexel 3 channel anduril drivers.

most times the drivers with a print, design by lexel.
https://222206-756251-raikfcquaxqnc.../wp-content/uploads/astrolux-mf01-mini-19.jpg

AMC only, FET only and mixed mode. 
if remember right.

i got from lexel different drivers for my projekts.
10x AMC only, FET only or 3-Channel all Anduril.









What is loneoceans ?

the FW3A is similar to many other here called lights only produced by lumintop for BLF, the idea,design, drivers....comes from members from BLF.

i never bought.
FW3A= a emisar D4 with a very flat E-switch on the back, they mean better for EDC..but to switch is horrible hard if you not hold it tight in your hand..i always find the D4 have the better placed switch and a good one.
the switch type from the FWxx is not really somethink that you want on bike.

D4 vs FW3A
https://i.imgur.com/sWbXMf6.jpg


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

Loneoceans is a guy with incredibly strong electrical engineering skills. He's mostly interested in Tesla coils but when he takes a break from them he dabbles with flashlights and other things. If you have some spare time check out his website, the Tesla coil lightning pictures are pretty awesome. https://www.loneoceans.com/labs/#

The drivers you show appear to be linear plus pwm fets. The typical three channel fet+ driver uses a single 7135 for the first channel, a bank of 7135s for the second channel which basically burn off excess voltage to modulate current flow. This wastes electricity and heats up the head. The third channel is pulse width modified fet running in full conduction mode. One of your drivers appears to use a fet operating in the linear region. Lexel often does that because the 7135's are not reliable when two or more cells are in series. 7135s typically max out at 350mA of current each.

As the light increases its output the controller ramps up all the 7135s and then starts turning on and off the fet at a very high frequency. At first the on time is only on a small percentage of the time. The light gets brighter as the on time percentage goes up and while this happens the 7135s start ramping down to reduce heat created. Once the duty cycle of the fet starts getting high the pulsating current creates voltage spikes that can damage the 7135s so they need to be turned off to protect them.

The electrical circuit is pretty simple for the fet. The positive terminal of the battery is connected directly to the led, the negative of the led connects to one side of the fet and the other side of the fet connects to the negative of the battery. There is very little electrical resistance which on the surface seems ideal. Unfortunately this leads to the led being overdriven when the voltage of the battery is high. The led operates in a very inefficient region wasting electricity and creating excess heat. The lower the forward voltage of the led is the worse it gets. Things get better as the battery discharges but soon the voltage of the battery drops enough to cause the light to start dimming.

Buck and boost drivers are generally more efficient, the downsides are more parts so bulkier and more expensive. High currents demand bigger inductors which creates space problems so the fet+ driver are more powerful. Lexel makes some good buck drivers if you want to try one out.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

yes AMC/FET drivers waste alot in heat and run only at ~70~80% eff.
Buck/Boost staff can reach up to ~98% eff.

to this day Anduril still ist AMC/FET only.


i have read some months ago that BLF+ Sofirn work on a buck/boost drivers with anduril funktions.
coz i have not read some month the forum i dont know how far they come with the projekt.

for DIY projekts or ready to use produkts i never buy somethink with buck drivers or this type of drivers.

for myself i like it userfriendly same like i do somehink for anyone, and Buck=multi serial li-ion packs is not the way to go.
for example any voltage drift in any 1S in you pack result in loosing mah.

in a 1S only you have always 100% usable mah from each cell in a complete pack.


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## MTB_Underdog (Jul 8, 2020)

So it looks like I've got some night riding in my future so I'm coming up with a lighting plan. Rides will be exclusively on single-track in the woods, and no longer than 1.5 hours (and usually under an hour).

I have had Fenix flashlights for work for years and been happy with them so I'm leaning toward staying with them. I currently have a PD36R that I'd like to use as a helmet light with a GoPro mount. For the bars I'm looking at the BC30 v2. I'd prefer on board recharging but the lights with that option from Fenix have a sgnificantly lower output. The BC30 v2 claims a 2.3 hour run time on high (1500 lumens, I don't count the 2200 lumen burst mode). Or would the BC30R be bright enough with 1000 lumens?

Does this seem like a good set-up? Anything I'm overlooking or other brands I should be looking at? TIA!


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

Still not the end but I think I can conclude, 2020 was not productive at all concerning new cheap bike lights.
:cryin:


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## Raggae_Reggie (Apr 7, 2020)

Wow, this is quite the thread...I read a lot of it and still have no idea what lights I should consider buying!

I just need a decent helmet mountable light for around 1.5 to 2 hours of trail riding, what would you suggest? Preferably less than $50.


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## MrGT (Aug 19, 2005)

Ceco 1000 on Amazon.


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## Randstad (Nov 5, 2020)

All, I would like to congratulate you for the absolutely fantastic job you are doing and the detailed technical explanations. This thread is top.

For a bit less than 50€ I am about to buy the Gaciron V9D 1600, which only problem at this price point seems to be that it may overheat when used for a prolonged period of time at max luminosity. This does not seem like a big problem to be and I like that I can inexpensively change the battery should it fails.

V9D

I´ve read that the CREE leds are fake, but I do not know what to believe.

Can anybody tell me anything else about this headlamp?

Thanks!
Ramstad.


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Older LED's even if they're real XM-L2 tho XM-L2 is a good LED, battery is 18650 so it's not 5000 mah so there's your first red flag. My guess is this is 800 lumens on high. However, I've never seen one in action so I stand to be corrected if I'm wrong but I'll put my basic Lumina 750 against it and I bet they're similar.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

mb323323 said:


> Older LED's even if they're real XM-L2 tho XM-L2 is a good LED, battery is 18650 so it's not 5000 mah so there's your first red flag. My guess is this is 800 lumens on high. However, I've never seen one in action so I stand to be corrected if I'm wrong but I'll put my basic Lumina 750 against it and I bet they're similar.


I looked at the link as well. If you clicked on the other lamps on the web page there are other lamps made by the same Chinese manufacture under the same brand name. Some of those lamps are only using a single 18650 which they claim to be 2500mAh. I'm thinking the one in the link is using two cells in parallel, thus 5000mAh. Real shame they didn't provide any photos of the beam patterns.

It seems one of the lamps they sell happens to be very much like one I already own only the one I have is sold under a different brand name ( iKirkLiten ) Has the same wired remote that connects to the underneath of the lamp and the same style handlebar mount. No surprise actually. The Chinese do this all the time. Just wish they would do it with the Wiz lamps.  Anyway, the iKirk. lamp I have is a half decent lamp with cut-off. Pluses were it had a decent mode setup, a remote that worked very well and very good throw when on high. The negatives, It did have quite a narrow beam pattern but what I really didn't like most about it was that the led tint had the dreaded bluish tint. At some point I'll be giving it away when I see someone riding at night without a light.

The lamp in the OP link has some very odd looking optics. Likely it is providing a flood and spot setup. Might actually be a decent lamp if the emitters don't have a bluish tint.


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## Randstad (Nov 5, 2020)

mb323323 said:


> Older LED's even if they're real XM-L2 tho XM-L2 is a good LED, battery is 18650 so it's not 5000 mah so there's your first red flag. My guess is this is 800 lumens on high. However, I've never seen one in action so I stand to be corrected if I'm wrong but I'll put my basic Lumina 750 against it and I bet they're similar.


Thanks. Regarding the Lumen, I do not believe this is one of those Chinese manufacturers that just give a random number and then add some zeroes in the lumen section. I mean I actually believe its going to be more or less what they claim and not massively different. Fortunately there's plenty of reviews of this lamp in Youtube and other places. I particularly liked this guy: 




Regarding the battery capacity...



Cat-man-do said:


> I looked at the link as well. If you clicked on the other lamps on the web page there are other lamps made by the same Chinese manufacture under the same brand name. Some of those lamps are only using a single 18650 which they claim to be 2500mAh. I'm thinking the one in the link is using two cells in parallel, thus 5000mAh. Real shame they didn't provide any photos of the beam patterns.
> 
> It seems one of the lamps they sell happens to be very much like one I already own only the one I have is sold under a different brand name ( iKirkLiten ) Has the same wired remote that connects to the underneath of the lamp and the same style handlebar mount. No surprise actually. The Chinese do this all the time. Just wish they would do it with the Wiz lamps.  Anyway, the iKirk. lamp I have is a half decent lamp with cut-off.


I would not be surprised if Gaciron manufactured it. I have already found yet another "brand" that uses Gaciron´s lamps rebranded: Intey. Which has been selling in Amazon for a while.

The V9D uses 2x18650, I do not see anything strange there, this is how it looks like:








Still, you guys are WAY more expert than I am, so your opinion is important to me.

Randstad.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Randstad said:


> For a bit less than 50€ I am about to buy the Gaciron V9D 1600, which only problem at this price point seems to be that it may overheat when used for a prolonged period of time at max luminosity. This does not seem like a big problem to be and I like that I can inexpensively change the battery should it fails.
> 
> V9D
> 
> ...


I was able to find a few Youtube reviews but most had no real usable outdoor video. One of the videos did show a wall beam shot comparison between the V9D and a typical 3 x T6 led cheap Chinese bike light. It seems the V9D does have a wide lens and a spot lens. However from what I could tell from the wall beam shot the lenses are not designed for upper cut-off. Also hard to tell was just how wide the beam pattern actual was. Not a very smooth beam pattern from what I could tell and while it might have a tendency to heat-up fast, as long as you are moving the air flow should keep it cool. There was a Youtube video that showed the lamp being tested with an infrared thermometer but in the video they didn't use a fan while testing the lamp.

As to the question of whether or not the LED's are true CREE XM-L2's....pretty much a roll of the dice. The Chinese do have the ability to manufacturer an LED very similar to the Cree XM-L2 but they do use the Crees on occasion so you aren't going to know unless you buy one, open it up and then have the ability to tell the difference. Here is a thread that talked about the cloning of the Cree's.

Now as to whether or not to buy one ; If it were me I wouldn't pay more than $35 USD for one of these. 50€ is almost $60 USD. Unless I could find an outdoor photo or video test of the lamp so I could judge the beam pattern I would not pull the trigger on one of these.


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## Randstad (Nov 5, 2020)

Cat-man-do said:


> I was able to find a few Youtube reviews but most had no real usable outdoor video. One of the videos did show a wall beam shot comparison between the V9D and a typical 3 x T6 led cheap Chinese bike light. It seems the V9D does have a wide lens and a spot lens. However from what I could tell from the wall beam shot the lenses are not designed for upper cut-off. Also hard to tell was just how wide the beam pattern actual was. Not a very smooth beam pattern from what I could tell and while it might have a tendency to heat-up fast, as long as you are moving the air flow should keep it cool. There was a Youtube video that showed the lamp being tested with an infrared thermometer but in the video they didn't use a fan while testing the lamp.
> 
> As to the question of whether or not the LED's are true CREE XM-L2's....pretty much a roll of the dice. The Chinese do have the ability to manufacturer an LED very similar to the Cree XM-L2 but they do use the Crees on occasion so you aren't going to know unless you buy one, open it up and then have the ability to tell the difference. Here is a thread that talked about the cloning of the Cree's.
> 
> Now as to whether or not to buy one ; If it were me I wouldn't pay more than $35 USD for one of these. 50€ is almost $60 USD. Unless I could find an outdoor photo or video test of the lamp so I could judge the beam pattern I would not pull the trigger on one of these.


Thank you very much.

I did write another post yesterday but it is either waiting for approval or lost somehow.

Reading your post I see I am very lost. You can see a review of the Gaciron 1800 (which I believe is exactly the 1600 but with more powerful LEDs) here:






15:57 for outdoors. I think the beam can be seen there pretty well.

It would be great to get a recommendation of a self contained head lamp for around 45-55 USD, I am not really willing to spend more than that and I am in no rush to buy, my 15USD 400lumen is covering my need as of now but if I want to (very occasionally) hit a train in the night, and we have long nights in NL at this time of the year, I won´t be able with this light.

One of the things I liked about this lamp is that being based on 18650 when over time the batteries are degraded I could even substitute them myself for a few dollars.

KRs,
Randstad.


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## slcdawg (Jul 28, 2003)

*Rec needed*

My kids have really gotten into mountain biking this summer and are asking for lights for Christmas. Any recs for the $30 range? This would be for mostly trail use. I have decent helmet and bar mount lights for myself but don't want to break the bank as I don't know how much they'll really use them.

I have read through this thread and like the Ceco 1000 but would like it more if it was $10 cheaper. 

Any feedback on the ET Power 5000 and Victagen on Amazon?

Or, do you think I'd be better off going with the Astrolux EC01 with a bar adapter? If so, any recs on bar adapaters?

I appreciate the input! Cheers! :thumbsup:


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Your link to the EC01 isn't correct. Anyway, I like the EC01 option (as a cheap but very effective/bright option - you might even want to program it not to reach the higher modes though for the kids. I don't own one, but it will beat the pants off any similar priced dedicated bike light in terms of output and price. The onboard charging will be quality and dependable and not something unknown (which could get dangerous). The one downside I see is that this light isn't available with the XHP50.2 emitter anymore, so you're "downgrading" to an SST40. Now if they'd bump that up to an SST70 that would be better. The SST40 won't be bad, just not the same overall output as the XHP50.2. Don't forget to order 2 quality 21700 batteries as well (and I'd get protected, but verify first that protected cells will fit). I'd also recommend you'd get the 5000k tint option.

This clamp MAY work (you can remove the inner bands to fit 35mm bars), but the EC01 is listed as 37mm in diameter, so if it does fit it will be very tight. I don't know if anyone else has this combination to report back.

Another decent option is the Sofirn SD05 (new version without the old 3 minute stepdown). This light however also no longer comes with the XHP50.2, but does come with the SST70 (which should be similar) though it is 6500k which will be a nasty cool white. The kit available gives you 1 decent 21700 cell, but I don't know anything about the charger (no built-in charging in this light). As far as ordering from Sofirn - I just ordered an IF25A and received it rather quickly (2 weeks-ish).

The Amazon lights you linked are very likely junk with overstated specs - typical.

-Garry


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

"Some of those lamps are only using a single 18650 which they claim to be 2500mAh. I'm thinking the one in the link is using two cells in parallel, thus 5000mAh.


Hey Cat

So this is capable of 1600 lumens (dual led) using only 3.7V? That's why I thought if it hit 750 L it'd still be a good light.


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## slcdawg (Jul 28, 2003)

Thanks for all the info, Garry!  Looks like the EC01 and Sofirn SD05 are similar when you factor in batteries, but I like the idea of not having to deal with a charger.

This is the correct link to the EC01. By "good" battery, can I get it from banggood with the lights or do you recommend somewhere else? This may be a dumb question, but why would you recommend the 5000k over 6500?

And do you know how well a helmet mount works with these flashlights? Something like this?

Thanks again! 



garrybunk said:


> Your link to the EC01 isn't correct. Anyway, I like the EC01 option (as a cheap but very effective/bright option - you might even want to program it not to reach the higher modes though for the kids. I don't own one, but it will beat the pants off any similar priced dedicated bike light in terms of output and price. The onboard charging will be quality and dependable and not something unknown (which could get dangerous). The one downside I see is that this light isn't available with the XHP50.2 emitter anymore, so you're "downgrading" to an SST40. Now if they'd bump that up to an SST70 that would be better. The SST40 won't be bad, just not the same overall output as the XHP50.2. Don't forget to order 2 quality 21700 batteries as well (and I'd get protected, but verify first that protected cells will fit). I'd also recommend you'd get the 5000k tint option.
> 
> This clamp MAY work (you can remove the inner bands to fit 35mm bars), but the EC01 is listed as 37mm in diameter, so if it does fit it will be very tight. I don't know if anyone else has this combination to report back.
> 
> ...


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## MrGT (Aug 19, 2005)

Mole, can you jump in here? By the time you get lights and batteries and mounts is it really going to be any less than a Ceco 1000 that has been tested and approved by the Mole himself?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Some quick responses: that mount you linked is only 1/2 the GoPro mount; you'd need the GoPro base on the helmet too (but that mount should work. I just wrap mine with velcro straps thru the helmet vents, although that makes it tough to aim the light properly. 

For 21700 cells I'd go with a Samsung 50E. That will give you greater runtime. The Sofirn cell is okay. If you're in the US, checkout LiionWholesale.com (not sure if you can get them protected though). 

5000k will be closer to neutral white. I'd actually recommend 4000k to 4500k if that was a choice. Neutral white will greatly enhance your ability to make out details on the trails (rocks, roots, etc.) rather than just wash it all out with a full gray look. 

Yeah, you'll likely be getting close to the cost of the Ceco with 2 batteries & mounts. 

-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

As of 21700, Samsung 50G is even better if you can get it.
See: https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1679563#comment-1679563

EC01 with SST40 would give you to much spot defined beam. I would not recomend it for MTB. XHP50.2 might be bit better since it has less throw.


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## slcdawg (Jul 28, 2003)

Thanks for the info, Garry. I'm definitely learning a lot here.  I might wait for the XHP50.2 to be available. Would the Sofirm IF25A that you ordered be an option as well? I like that it has a charger built into the light.



garrybunk said:


> Some quick responses: that mount you linked is only 1/2 the GoPro mount; you'd need the GoPro base on the helmet too (but that mount should work. I just wrap mine with velcro straps thru the helmet vents, although that makes it tough to aim the light properly.
> 
> For 21700 cells I'd go with a Samsung 50E. That will give you greater runtime. The Sofirn cell is okay. If you're in the US, checkout LiionWholesale.com (not sure if you can get them protected though).
> 
> ...


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## slcdawg (Jul 28, 2003)

Is there a big difference between XHP50.2 and XHP50B-3V? The EC01 for the latter is avail at Aliexpress


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## slcdawg (Jul 28, 2003)

Sorry for all the questions. I think I'm starting to figure this out. For a bike light, sounds like I want less throw and a wider beam. The IF25A has an SST20 and would be too tight a beam. Sounds like the SST70 or XHP50 emitter is the way to go, with a neutral light.  Based on that, would you recommend the EC01 with XHP50B-3V from Aliexpress?



slcdawg said:


> Thanks for the info, Garry. I'm definitely learning a lot here.  I might wait for the XHP50.2 to be available. Would the Sofirm IF25A that you ordered be an option as well? I like that it has a charger built into the light.


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## MrGT (Aug 19, 2005)

Not altogether correct. For your bars you generally want a wider beam, for the helmet you want narrow beam with more throw. So it depends on where you are mounting the lights. I’d argue most off road mountain bikers benefit from using both. This reply was not meant to criticize, only to educate.


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## slcdawg (Jul 28, 2003)

Thank you for the info, and no worries I am here to learn.  If I remember right, most people prefer a helmet mount if only doing one? I'd prefer the bar mount from a setup perspective.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I believe that one on Ali would be decent. There is a review thread on the IF25A by CAT here on MTBR and I posted some comparison pics. 

Samsung 50G eh? Haven't even heard of it. 

-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

slcdawg said:


> Is there a big difference between XHP50.2 and XHP50B-3V? The EC01 for the latter is avail at Aliexpress


Never heard of XHP50B-3V. Found at Cutter "XHP50B-00-0000-0A00J4051" which is product code I believe. Cutter says it's special XHP50.2 3V edition which might be true since I've found it listed at this page: https://www.cree.com/led-components/products/xlamp-leds-arrays/xlamp-xhp50-2 under Documentation - Product Ecology

Interesting. As it has 5x5mm footprint it could be used instead of XM-L series. There might be problem with some optics but worth to try. At current of 3A it has 0.3V lower forward voltage versus XM-L2 which might result in longer runtime.

I would say go for it and report it back.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Hmm . . . I might just go ahead and pick one up before the EC01 with XHP50.2 is no longer available! 

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

MRMOLE said:


> I have a SD05 and SP33V3 that do work OK on the bike with an elliptical lens cover. Here's some pictures of the SP33 with the lens cover and before and after beam pattern shots on my garage door to give you some idea how much wider the beam will be.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I figured this old post was appropriate for the current conversation. There's actually a lot of good information one page back regarding flashlight bicycle applications.
Mole


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## slcdawg (Jul 28, 2003)

Lots of good info in this thread. I went back and read it more carefully and decided to pick up an SF40 to test out. Completely different direction than what I was asking for, but I can use it now (BC skiing pre-dawn) and one of the kids can use when bike season starts up again. I may pick up an EC01 as well, I'm intrigued by all these cheap, powerful lights. 

Really appreciate the informative posts and answering this noob's questions. Thank you.

Cheers! :thumbsup:



MRMOLE said:


> I figured this old post was appropriate for the current conversation. There's actually a lot of god information one page back regarding flashlight bicycle applications.
> Mole


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

Glad to see you folks are still at it, I've been out of the cheap light scene since 2015 or so when I picked up a Nitefighter BT70 and a couple other lights with rechargeable packs. The past few years I've mostly been using Niterider Lumina's on my helmet (since they can be had for cheap on sale and they're a known company with a decent product) and focusing more on actually getting out and riding. looks like things have come a long way since then. I still use my BT70 and BT40, but the packs don't hold a charge very well anymore and a couple of them have gone completely flat during the summers when it stays light late and I don't do as much night riding.
after spending a couple days chipping away at this thread, i have a couple questions:
-Is there a favorite spot to get new 8.4v packs? I would love to revive my old Nitefighter lamp heads.
-I picked up a Sofirn SP33, what mounts have been working well for them?
-Are there any other 26650 based lights available in neutral white or more appropriate for trail riding? (I have a bunch of 26650 cells that I would love to put to work)


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

dirtdawg21892 said:


> Glad to see you folks are still at it, I've been out of the cheap light scene since 2015 or so when I picked up a Nitefighter BT70 and a couple other lights with rechargeable packs. The past few years I've mostly been using Niterider Lumina's on my helmet (since they can be had for cheap on sale and they're a known company with a decent product) and focusing more on actually getting out and riding. looks like things have come a long way since then. I still use my BT70 and BT40, but the packs don't hold a charge very well anymore and a couple of them have gone completely flat during the summers when it stays light late and I don't do as much night riding.
> after spending a couple days chipping away at this thread, i have a couple questions:
> -Is there a favorite spot to get new 8.4v packs? I would love to revive my old Nitefighter lamp heads.
> -I picked up a Sofirn SP33, what mounts have been working well for them?
> -Are there any other 26650 based lights available in neutral white or more appropriate for trail riding? (I have a bunch of 26650 cells that I would love to put to work)


I've had good luck with the FMA batteries sold on ebay. Here's a link for a 6800mAh pack that is similar in capacity to what came with the BT70's. They also make higher capacity 6 cell or 21700 packs.
Magicshine Bike Light LED flashlight 7.4V 6800mAh Protected Li-ion battery 2S2P | eBay

I have some flashlight experience but more just messing around with them so am pretty much a noob. I do have a SP33 that I modified to give a better beam (for biking). I had to sand it down by hand but consider the results worth the 20 or so minutes it took. If your using the SP33 as a helmet light (too heavy for my taste) though the stock beam is fine.
Wide Angle Lens

These mounts work fine but remember I have limited usage so can't vouch for long term durability.
Mole
https://www.amazon.com/Vonpri-Flashlight-Bicycle-Mounting-Rotation/dp/B076H2XZ3T/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=O2Y18EP82EB1&dchild=1&keywords=handlebar+flashlight+mount&qid=1608588729&sprefix=flashlight+handlebar+mounts,aps,248&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOEdQM1RYQ0kyQzkxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTQyMzQ5M09LVURXRzFGR1E2TyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTMxNTg1MlIzNVBKR1IxSVI3MiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I FINALLY received my EC01 with the 3V XHP50.2. However, it looks like they sent me an SST40 version (box has a sticker that reads "SST40 5000K" too). Ugh! I can't seem to upload a photo from my phone to show it. 

-Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

There we go! SST40, right? Looks like an XML2 to me, but then again I've been away from LEDs for a little now. Not sure if I should issue a complaint on Ali or not.

-Garry


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> There we go! SST40, right? Looks like an XML2 to me, but then again I've been away from LEDs for a little now. Not sure if I should issue a complaint on Ali or not.
> 
> -Garry


Not sure what you are planning on using the light for but I would complain if I didn't get what I ordered. The SST40 would give you more throw and from my experience is more efficient than xml/xpl emitters but it still wouldn't match the 50.2 for lumens per watt consumed. Doubtful they would ask for the SST40 light back anyway so you could end up with both versions or the SST40 and a credit or refund (guilt free IMO since it was their mistake).
Mole


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*Ravemen N900*









Aliexpress Chinese spec. Ravemen. I also have a physically identical Ravemen LR800 that I've been very happy with but ran across this light looking around for deals this past Black Friday. Slightly more output (not quite the claimed 100 lumen difference) and extra runtime (about 20 min in the high mode) and only $25.84 delivered to the US (took around 30 days) was a good enough deal to make me bite. Price qualifies the N900 as a cheap light but it's very high quality with about 1000 measured lumens and a very nice floody beam pattern. Simple single program UI (high/med/low/flash) actually functions like most boost/turbo mode lights in that double clicking (aided by the excellent functioning side mounted mode button) will take you from high to low or vise versa so having the flash mode in the main/only program is not an issue with this light. Micro usb charging port is also an attachment point for an optional wired remote switch or a charge on the fly connection to a powerbank to extend runtimes for those who like to do long rides. I posted something in the "current bike light deals" thread when I saw this light but now that I've received the N900 and can confirm it's the real deal and not a clone figured I post something here too. I also have a non US spec Magicshine RN900 that along with the Ravemen N900 I plan on comparing to Amazon's escellent Ceco 1000 in a battle for the best performing cheap/excellent quality light thread (more details and output charts included).
Mole


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## Cicch95 (Apr 6, 2016)

MRMOLE said:


> *Ravemen N900*
> 
> Aliexpress Chinese spec. Ravemen. I also have a physically identical Ravemen LR800 that I've been very happy with but ran across this light looking around for deals this past Black Friday. Slightly more output (not quite the claimed 100 lumen difference) and extra runtime (about 20 min in the high mode) and only $25.84 delivered to the US (took around 30 days) was a good enough deal to make me bite. Price qualifies the N900 as a cheap light but it's very high quality with about 1000 measured lumens and a very nice floody beam pattern. Simple single program UI (high/med/low/flash) actually functions like most boost/turbo mode lights in that double clicking (aided by the excellent functioning side mounted mode button) will take you from high to low or vise versa so having the flash mode in the main/only program is not an issue with this light. Micro usb charging port is also an attachment point for an optional wired remote switch or a charge on the fly connection to a powerbank to extend runtimes for those who like to do long rides. I posted something in the "current bike light deals" thread when I saw this light but now that I've received the N900 and can confirm it's the real deal and not a clone figured I post something here too. I also have a non US spec Magicshine RN900 that along with the Ravemen N900 I plan on comparing to Amazon's escellent Ceco 1000 in a battle for the best performing cheap/excellent quality light thread (more details and output charts included).
> Mole


I picked up one of these after Mole told me about them. Of particular interest to me was the light's ability to be used while charging for extended run times. I got the light in about 30 days. The price was definitely right at $28.90 shipped including a twist lock mount for my Garmin and go pro mount (It also came with the std bar mount). I have used it once so far. On the high setting the light provided a good light pattern for trail riding and excellent brightness. The charge lasted almost exactly as advertised at approx 1 1/2 hrs. I did not have any over heating issues. The std mount was very stable. Next Monday, I will try running it on high while plugged into a power bank. I will report back how long the charge lasts. After that, I will see how it works on medium for trail riding, as far as brightness and adequate light goes. Not as in depth and technical a review as Mr Mole will give us.....but figured I'd chime in! Overall I like this light so far. Keep in mind that on high it is about equal to my original Yindings on low as far as brightness and view on the trail. I have yet to compare it to my Ceco F1000.


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

Well, after discovering them in this thread, I officially can't stop buying Sofirn lights.
I was basically after an all-in-one light with replaceable batteries or better run time than the NiteRider Lumina's that I'm use to, and boy did I find it. I've been running an SP33 on my bars with an SP31 on my helmet using a light mount on a gopro adapter. It works super well and I've been very impressed with the value proposition that these lights pose.
I've been lured in by the SP36 BFL Anduril, but haven't used it on a bike yet. Looking at the IF25A now, because I really like the Anduril UI and smaller package while still having a lot of spill and output. The regular IF25 is super cool with it's ability to blend colors and generate any tint you want, but at the expense of overall output... 
I think I just need them all. What have I gotten myself into?? 🤣


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

dirtdawg21892 said:


> I think I just need them all. What have I gotten myself into?? 🤣


Sounds like a hobby that rates really high on the fun/smiles per dollar scale. Similar to your experiences I've been very happy with all the Sofirn purchases I've made. Anduril UI (👍) does such a good job making torches more bike friendly. I've got a SP33V3 that has the Anduril UI and a modified wide angle (elliptical) lens cover that works great as a bar light but is also an improvement for walking/hiking IMO. Also I recently picked up a much smaller SC31 Pro that has the Andril UI. Injury has prevented me from trying it out on the bike yet but it looks like it should work well. Have you got any pictures of your setup you could share?
Mole


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

MRMOLE said:


> Sounds like a hobby that rates really high on the fun/smiles per dollar scale. Similar to your experiences I've been very happy with all the Sofirn purchases I've made. Anduril UI (👍) does such a good job making torches more bike friendly. I've got a SP33V3 that has the Anduril UI and a modified wide angle (elliptical) lens cover that works great as a bar light but is also an improvement for walking/hiking IMO. Also I recently picked up a much smaller SC31 Pro that has the Andril UI. Injury has prevented me from trying it out on the bike yet but it looks like it should work well. Have you got any pictures of your setup you could share?
> Mole


Of course!









This is an Sp33 on my bars and an sp31 on my helmet. The color temps don't match super well, but I don't usually run them together. I got the 33 first, with the intent to run it as a bar light paired with a night rider lumina 1100 on the helmet, but I was so impressed with it that I decided I wanted to try the smaller one with the xpl-HI. It's very warm and I plan to pair it with an sp36 if I can figure out a reliable bar mount for it.

Anyway, here's a shot with the setup pictured above.









For the money, you really can't touch it. The pair ran me about $50 and return way more output and run time than anything else in that price range.


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## gregers05 (Jan 30, 2013)

dirtdawg21892 said:


> Of course!
> 
> This is an Sp33 on my bars and an sp31 on my helmet. The color temps don't match super well, but I don't run them together. I got the 33 first, with the intent to run it as a bar light paired with a night rider lumina 1100 on the helmet, but I was so impressed with it that I decided I wanted to try the smaller one with the xpl-HI. It's very warm and I plan to pair it with an sp36 if I can figure out a reliable bar mount for it.
> 
> ...


Do you have a link to the mounts you used?


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

gregers05 said:


> Do you have a link to the mounts you used?


Sure.
on the bar: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H3KLMLM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
on he helmet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H79RV25/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I already had a gopro mount on it, so it was a super convenient mounting point.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Wide Angle Lens










Here's a picture of my SP33V3 with the easily modified to fit elliptical lens cover. Beam height is the same but about twice as wide + fills in the area around the front tire and greatly improves obstical recognition going into turns. I've also been playing around with ceiling setting on the ramping mode of the SC31 Pro. Initial output can be raised or lowered which changes runtimes but looks like decent power can be set to run a full 2 hrs. and you can still double click to turbo if you need a short higher powered blast of light.
Mole


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## gregers05 (Jan 30, 2013)

dirtdawg21892 said:


> Sure.
> on the bar: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H3KLMLM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> on he helmet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H79RV25/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> I already had a gopro mount on it, so it was a super convenient mounting point.


Thanks!


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

MRMOLE said:


> Wide Angle Lens
> 
> View attachment 1915591
> 
> ...


That's awesome. I'll pick one up, thanks!
I've also got one of the older v2 that didnt have the USB port, and i've got to say I like the beam pattern better on the older one even though it has a cooler tint. it's strange, because the data sheets say that they're both equipped with XHP50 emitters and the orange peel reflectors seem to be the same too. I do notice that the v3 has a larger lens, but that doesn't really explain the greenish rings around the periphery.
I've got my eye on the IF25 in 4k. Haven't bought it yet, but expecting my willpower to crumble sooner than later. Seems like a very floody beam and way more than enough output. I can carry extra cells if the 21700 can't keep up, but I really doubt that's going to be an issue.


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## sandro87 (Oct 20, 2019)

dirtdawg21892 said:


> Well, after discovering them in this thread, I officially can't stop buying Sofirn lights.
> I was basically after an all-in-one light with replaceable batteries or better run time than the NiteRider Lumina's that I'm use to, and boy did I find it. I've been running an SP33 on my bars with an SP31 on my helmet using a light mount on a gopro adapter. It works super well and I've been very impressed with the value proposition that these lights pose.
> I've been lured in by the SP36 BFL Anduril, but haven't used it on a bike yet. Looking at the IF25A now, because I really like the Anduril UI and smaller package while still having a lot of spill and output. The regular IF25 is super cool with it's ability to blend colors and generate any tint you want, but at the expense of overall output...
> I think I just need them all. What have I gotten myself into??


I'm not sure what's your bike usage but don't you find them not adeguate for the pattern they output?
On a bike it would be preferable a wide beam pattern and that can't blind other road users.
What's your experience on that?

And is there a flashlight that has both different tints and andirul ui?


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

Yep, between Mole and Gary I've got a whole box of various lights, mostly unused... but when I do turn them on, everyone goes WOW!



MRMOLE said:


> Sounds like a hobby that rates really high on the fun/smiles per dollar scale.





dirtdawg21892 said:


> Well, after discovering them in this thread, I officially can't stop buying Sofirn lights. I think I just need them all. What have I gotten myself into?? ?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

sandro87 said:


> I'm not sure what's your bike usage but don't you find them not adeguate for the pattern they output?
> On a bike it would be preferable a wide beam pattern and that can't blind other road users.
> What's your experience on that?
> 
> And is there a flashlight that has both different tints and andirul ui?


Of the flashlights I've tried I didn't care for the beam pattern for bar use but my current favorite Sofirn SP33V3.0 was easily and inexpensively modified by adding a wide angle elliptical lens cover. I've read (BLF) that you can get these in both 5000K and 6-6500K but have never found a source for the 5000K version. I've been testing a small (100g) torch (Sofirn SC31 Pro) that I was able to get in a 5000K tint that seems to be working out pretty well for helmet use. Usable battery life is less than an hour for the SC31 Pro but changed at that that interval it delivers better throw than any appropriately sized bike light for most of that time.
Mole


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

I've been using the IF25A as a helmet light and find the beam to be totally adequate. I only ride in the woods though, so blinding drivers isn't something I worry about. 
When I was looking I was able to find the 5k SP33 on Sofirn's website. it seems pretty cool compared to other 5k lights I've used, but with the wide angle diffuser lens on it's a great bar light.


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## phantoj (Jul 7, 2009)

dirtdawg21892 said:


> I've been using the IF25A as a helmet light and find the beam to be totally adequate. I only ride in the woods though, so blinding drivers isn't something I worry about.
> When I was looking I was able to find the 5k SP33 on Sofirn's website. it seems pretty cool compared to other 5k lights I've used, but with the wide angle diffuser lens on it's a great bar light.


Got a link for that 5k SP33? I'm having a hard time finding it.


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

phantoj said:


> Got a link for that 5k SP33? I'm having a hard time finding it.


Yeah I don't see it anymore either. Stuff goes in and out of stock so quickly and then they just replace it with something different.


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Thought I would just share the most ridiculous lumen claim to date.









900000LM T6 USB Rechargeable Cycling Light HeadLight Bike Bicycle LED Front Lamp | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 900000LM T6 USB Rechargeable Cycling Light HeadLight Bike Bicycle LED Front Lamp at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

^it's all wrong
but since this is a focusable head....
they confuse lumens with lux. the lux may be high at the focus center

*Lux*: The amount of light that is cast on a surface is called illuminance, which is measured in *lux*. This can be thought of as light intensity within a specific area. 
*Lumens*: The total output of visible light from a light source is measured in *lumen*


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

MRMOLE said:


> I've been testing a small (100g) torch (Sofirn SC31 Pro) that I was able to get in a 5000K tint that seems to be working out pretty well for helmet use. Usable battery life is less than an hour for the SC31 Pro but changed at that that interval it delivers better throw than any appropriately sized bike light for most of that time.
> Mole


I also have a 5k SC31 pro and it does alright. I don't love the beam pattern, but it's very impressive output for the size. 
I've been using a 5k sofirn S11C for a head lamp and it's actually really good in the woods. The tint blends nearly perfectly with the nightfighter BT70 I use on the bars. it's got a zoomable head on it, and I've found that leaving it cranked about 2/3 of the way towards the zoomed position gives a really nice balance of spread and throw. It's also super light, to the point where it feels a little cheap, but it works well and I can't even tell it's up there. They had a sale and I got it for like $10 shipped with a battery included, I've been very impressed.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

dirtdawg21892 said:


> I also have a 5k SC31 pro and it does alright. I don't love the beam pattern, but it's very impressive output for the size.
> I've been using a 5k sofirn S11C for a head lamp and it's actually really good in the woods. The tint blends nearly perfectly with the nightfighter BT70 I use on the bars. it's got a zoomable head on it, and I've found that leaving it cranked about 2/3 of the way towards the zoomed position gives a really nice balance of spread and throw. It's also super light, to the point where it feels a little cheap, but it works well and I can't even tell it's up there. They had a sale and I got it for like $10 shipped with a battery included, I've been very impressed.


Most of the desert trails I ride have higher speeds and longer lines of sight so the longer throw of the SC31 Pro is a welcome characteristic. In the woods I can see how that probably wouldn't be ideal. Curious with the lower lumen output what kind of runtime you get out of the Sofirn cell? Cool to hear of someone still running a BT70 (I still have one too) .
Mole


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

I've been using a sanyo cell which I've measured at around 3300 mAh and it lasts much longer than my typical night ride. I've been able to get 3 rides out of it before it died, but I generally like to top it off before riding just out of habit. I carry extra cells in the bag anyway just in case, but have only needed to use them with the sp33 back when I was still using 18650's in it. I can get run time estimates with the sofirn cells for you though, they seem like decent batteries. totally worth the $3 upcharge IMO.


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## zapotec (Jul 21, 2020)

Is this Astrolux BL02 clone ?









33.0US $ 49% OFF|Newboler 6400mah Bicycle Light Usb Chargeable 1600 Lumen Bike Light 5v/2a Waterproof 4 Led Headlight Power Bank Bike Accessories - Bicycle Lights - AliExpress


Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com




www.aliexpress.com













They doubled the amount of emitters, and have the same rest of feature including mount, separate warm and cool LEDs, including similar USB-C port arrangement.

















They also have exactly same single 21700 battery version like BL02.









Perusing in AliExpress review, some of them said this better than Gaciron V9D-1600, some flashlight reviewer rate the battery is only 5400 mAh.










Wut...who put bike lights in a pocket...this is clearly not typical EDC flash light 

Even hot shouldn't not an issue for running bike, and they stay on mount...who wants to gripping the light all the time when running maximum brightness?

Somehow I am more appreciating reviews with lights mounted on their handlebar to justify when it comes for cheap bike lights rather than flash light junkie perspective, unless he ride too.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

zapotec said:


> Is this Astrolux BL02 clone ?
> 
> They also have exactly same single 21700 battery version like BL02.
> View attachment 1941406


Not sure where the design came from but I'm thinking rebrand rather than clone. Only actual spec. change I could find (or see) on the 2 emitter light from my Astrolux BL02 was the 21700 battery is only rated @ 4000mAh. From looking at the lighthead casing of the 4 emitter I'm seeing a lot of similarities with some Xanes lights so possible they're the original source and manufacturer (?).



zapotec said:


> Perusing in AliExpress review, some of them said this better than Gaciron V9D-1600, some flashlight reviewer rate the battery is only 5400 mAh.


 After about 10 charge cycles the battery charge led on my light still registers 100% and holds that till used but my light hasn't sat around for more than a couple of days. From use I suspect my battery may not actually match is claimed capacity but it sounds to me like that reviewer's light may have had a battery problem from the start considering its battery life led behavior.
Mole


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## Hambonio (Jul 16, 2008)

I went on a binge buying 21700 lights recently. Sofirn SD05, Astrolux EC01, and my latest, a Convoy M21A. If you are looking for a "thrower", the Convoy is the one. It's a little longer than the other two, and has the tailcap clicky switch, but it really reaches out. 

I'm liking the looks of the self contained Astrolux, a little bummed about the non replaceable battery. Has anyone got inside one for possible battery replacement?


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## whokilledJR (Sep 24, 2012)

Now this is interesting, an XHP70.2 Light by a mid range flashlight company:
On the road MX5, although this one is marketed as a headlight, it appears it's marketed as such because it doesn't have a remote switch, otherwise the mount is definitely a bike light mount.






ON THE ROAD MX5-HL LED Headlamp - 4*Cree XHP70.2 P2 / 2700LM / 7-mode / pure white / IPX6 / stepless dimming / temperature control / 90' adjustment / 12400mAh battery pack / US at FastTech - Free Shipping


Probably the best deal for a ON THE ROAD MX5-HL LED Headlamp 4*Cree XHP70.2 P2 / 2700LM / 7-mode / pure white / IPX6 / stepless dimming / temperature control / 90' adjustment / 12400mAh battery pack / US USD as of 7/26/2022 - Free shipping worldwide on all orders. Prices unbelievably cheap.




www.fasttech.com













I recently received the on the road MX3 which I'm really impressed with. It's well made, pretty, excellent thermal capability (good heft, aggressive heatsink) and a very good UI. My version has 4 modes, click to change modes, double to click to get turbo and the buttons are very responsive with mode memory. So double click turbo, then set the other mode to high/med/low and you can simply cycle two modes. (i.e. Double click turbo, single click low, double click turbo, single click low....)

Based on other reviews for other products they list and the light I have, their posted lumens values are consistent and meet spec. 2700 lumens I'd say is very achievable for this build and likely could be pushed a lot harder with an XHP70.2.

Constant current drivers are used rather than cheaper PWM drivers.

Cabling is solid and water proof. According to fasttech this one comes with a battery pack. Lighthead only would be available somewhere.

On the road often offer neutral white as an option as well.

Uses the typical mtb battery packs, i.e 7.2-8.4v battery packs.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

whokilledJR said:


> ON THE ROAD MX5-HL LED Headlamp - 4*Cree XHP70.2 P2 / 2700LM / 7-mode / pure white / IPX6 / stepless dimming / temperature control / 90' adjustment / 12400mAh battery pack / US at FastTech - Free Shipping
> 
> 
> Probably the best deal for a ON THE ROAD MX5-HL LED Headlamp 4*Cree XHP70.2 P2 / 2700LM / 7-mode / pure white / IPX6 / stepless dimming / temperature control / 90' adjustment / 12400mAh battery pack / US USD as of 7/26/2022 - Free shipping worldwide on all orders. Prices unbelievably cheap.
> ...


Hard to tell from pictures but assuming this is a reflector style light in which case the addition of one of these elliptical lens covers would probably improve the beam pattern for cycling use (wider, smoother, better coverage area). It looks like it may have a slightly larger diameter but easily modifiable to fit. 
Mole

Wide Angle Lens


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## gregers05 (Jan 30, 2013)

alright guys, im looking to replace my lights this year, all my current ones have remote battery packs, which I'd like to get away from. So looking for a self contained light, but not sure what the best option is. On the helmet, what is light enough and has a good spot pattern? For the handle bars, I am having a hard time fining something that has the wide pattern. Ive read through this thread and some others, but not sure which direction to go?


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

I've gone back to external battery pack for the bars. The choices are just better and the light output throughout the run time is superior to self contained. If your one a budget, it's hard to beat the BL70. You can get a Panasonic 4 cell pack from Kaidomain for 33 bucks as well, total under 80 bucks and it works great. Mr Mole I believe sent out a 3500 lumen light head for 99 bucks that's real good as well. Maybe he can linky it again. Save the self contained for the noggin. Lots o good choices tho.


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