# going from tube to tubeless tires, do i need new rims?



## polock (Apr 11, 2008)

I want to make the switch from tubed tires to tubeless, is all i need is a new set of tires, and valvestems?


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## Tulsa (Jun 22, 2009)

most would say you need new wheels, but there are alot of options, you can buy kits with new rim strips that will work, or check you tube there are DIY ways that seem to work, or search, there are posts here about it


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## luckie8 (Aug 14, 2009)

ghetto tubeless :thumbsup:


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## Timon (May 11, 2008)

polock said:


> I want to make the switch from tubed tires to tubeless, is all i need is a new set of tires, and valvestems?


in most cases you don't even need new tires.

google 'stans sealant' and buy a kit for mtb. has all the instructions and whatnot, you can watch videos of the install process online. basically you just need to install a special rimstrip (comes in the kit), and then pop the tire on with compressed air with some sealant inside, then shake it around so the sealant can seal up all the leaky spots. some tires don't work, because of the way the bead is designed....but i believe most do work fine.

or you can youtube 'ghetto tubeless' and use 20" tubes cut in half to create a rim strip that will allow the rim/tire combo to seal with the stans sealant.


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## Lambdamaster (Nov 5, 2008)

I have done stan's tubeless, and ghetto tubeless with gorilla tape. The gorilla tape method is much cheaper, and actually sealed up faster than stans.


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## Linga115 (Mar 23, 2008)

here's what they were talking about

tube method











gorilla tape











im the guy in the 1st set of videos.


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

+1 on Ghetto,

One thing I cannot stress enough, do not pump ghettoed tyres up past 40 PSI if they have a kevlar bead. 

Just trust me on this one


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## Squash (Jul 20, 2003)

polock said:


> I want to make the switch from tubed tires to tubeless, is all i need is a new set of tires, and valvestems?


If you don't want to mess with gorilla tape, the ghetto method, or a commercial conversion kit, then yes you'll need a new UST wheel set. Otherwise one of the methods above will work. A UST wheel is designed specifically to work tubeless and has spoke access holes inside the rim like a "standard" rim. It's completely smooth and sealed. This makes it so you don't need a rim strip, tape, etc. to seal up those holes. UST rims also have a more agressive bead hook design that holds the bead of the tire more firmly to compensate of the lack of the tube helping to hold the bead in place. And you don't have to use sealant with a UST wheel when using UST tires. They seal up without using sealant.

But, with that said, the other methods work just fine. The absolute best and most secure method of going tubeless with the a full UST wheel and tire. But the others work well too. So you don't need new wheels to go tubeless. Just pick the set up you like and give it a try. :thumbsup:

Good Dirt


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## Lambdamaster (Nov 5, 2008)

Squash said:


> The absolute best and most secure method of going tubeless with the a full UST wheel and tire.


I'll agree with you on most secure, but I think the weight and cost penalty makes it far from the best.


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## osmarandsara (Jun 26, 2006)

*tubeless*



CaveGiant said:


> +1 on Ghetto,
> 
> One thing I cannot stress enough, do not pump ghettoed tyres up past 40 PSI if they have a kevlar bead.
> 
> Just trust me on this one


I would also add, don't go lower than 25 PSI on ghettoed tires if they are a folding type....especially if you plan on doing drops, even small ones....


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## Squash (Jul 20, 2003)

osmarandsara said:


> I would also add, don't go lower than 25 PSI on ghettoed tires if they are a folding type....especially if you plan on doing drops, even small ones....


I've riden both. And, at least for me, I really don't notice the weight difference that much. But then I prefer a wider tire choice than what's available in UST so I use regular tires on UST wheels. But I'll go UST when it's rock and root time. My current set up is only 100g lighter per wheel than with the UST version of the same tires. And the extra side wall strength of the UST tire more than makes up for the extra weight when things get rocky. Just depends on the conditions and how you ride. I've also found that the more agressive you ride the more you should lean toward full on UST set ups. If you dig a bit, most of the horror stories with converted tubless setups are from folks that ride way to agressively and/or run very low pressures using converted wheels/tires. It also depends allot rider weight as well.

Anyway, by the best system I mean the system that will cause you the least problems in terms of roll offs, burps, sidewall tears, etc.

Good Dirt


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