# Having to adjust disc brakes after taking off front wheel



## NullPointer (Aug 4, 2008)

Whenever I take off the front wheel, I have to adjust my front disc brakes to stop them from rubbing. It seems that each time I put the wheel back on, the quick release is tightened differently, resulting in a slightly different placement of the rotor relative to the pads, resulting in rubbing. Brakes are Hayes MX4 mechanical. Is there some secret to avoid this? Would changing to hydraulic brakes make a difference because they are self-centering?


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## luckynumber9 (Mar 7, 2009)

try holding the wheel at an angle that wont allow brake rub. This problem may be the result of poorly made dropouts.


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## Strive215 (Jun 9, 2009)

I have the same problem....i have Avid Juicy 3's....
I end up re-setting the caliper (unscrew/squeeze brake/re-screw), which doesn't really help...and the rub ends up worse...
I end up re-truing my rotors with a crescent wrench each time I take off the front wheel (funny my back wheel doesnt have that problem)
Help please


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## }SkOrPn--7 (Aug 15, 2008)

Place the wheels in leaving the bike to place weight on the axles when on the ground then do up the QR. Lift the frame so one wheel is of the ground and give it a spin while at the same time applying the brake at a steady squeeze until the wheel is stopped but don't yank the brake on for a sudden stop just squeeze for a controlled stop. When the wheel has stopped apply more force to the brake lever and lower the wheel to the ground still holding the brakes on. Release the QR just enough to allow movement and about half way open is enough then do it back up this will center the rotors from rubbing. To use the above method the brakes must be aligned using the same method to start with before doing up the bolts then every time the wheel is removed if following the above no more pad scuff on the rotors. Just remember that each time the wheel is removed you need to follow the above of closing the QR and applying the break when spinning the wheel holding the break on and opening the QR just a tad for both F/R and this method will solve many of the issues you outline.


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## timberstone (Feb 20, 2009)

Here I thought it was me. I have BB5's and have the same problem.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

Umm, tighten it the same amount?


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## }SkOrPn--7 (Aug 15, 2008)

timberstone said:


> Here I thought it was me. I have BB5's and have the same problem.


With BB5's I have found that the best way to stop this and get the caliper centered is place the wheel on and secure the QR. Loosen the caliper bolts enough to allow movement and ensure the brake cable holding bolt is loose. Screw the inboard break adjuster in until the pad touches the disk then lift the arm that actuates the outboard pad movement up until the pad touches the disk then tighten the cable bolt making sure that the pads are running central to the disk. This might take a little fiddling to get right but just hang in there and get it centered. Once centered follow the above to place wheel in and spin the wheel slowly applying the break to the wheel stops and at the same time as your pulling the brake levers the caliper is getting it's final centering adjustment. This might have to be done a few times but remember not to have the bolts mounting the caliper too loose and not too tight. Holding the brake lever firmly when the wheel stops spinning tighten the bolts for the calipers.

Now loosen the QR and do it up again followed by spinning the wheel applying the break to stop the wheel gently and while holding the brake lever on loosen the QR as above and re-tighten. Now go back to the inboard pad adjuster turning out so the pad has clearance. Do the same with the other pad but this time loosen the cable bolt and allow the pad to move out the same distance then tighten the bolt. Spin the wheel and test your brakes now the rotor will be running central to the pads and the caliper will be central to the rotor so when the brakes are applied the pads will touch the rotor evenly. You know when you have this process done correctly when the pads hit the rotor there will be no rotor flex due to both pads striking the rotor at the same time and running true.

This method can be done with BB7 brakes as well but rather than adjust the cable to center the pad just adjust the outboard pad adjuster. I have use this method on all my BB5,BB7,Juicy 3 and Juicy 7 brakes and never have I had rotor flex or the gobble nor pad rub. Just need to redo everything when you notice rotor flex due to worn pads and using this method I have been able to whip all my wheels out then replace them and never have any issues they all run true and will be aligned so this works for me give it a try.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

^^^shut the fukk up... are you serious?? you do this every time you take off and put on a wheel?
good god man...

NO YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE TO DO THIS!


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## snaky69 (Mar 8, 2005)

A qr lever can tighten more on one side than the other, maybe you aren't tightening it up the same way every time, making it so the hub(thus the rotor) is never in the same place.


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## }SkOrPn--7 (Aug 15, 2008)

Noooooooo I do that too set up and center/align my calipers and rotors then once that process is complete you can remove your wheel anytime you want and shove it back on without fear of rubbing brakes. The only thing I do every time a wheel is removed is shove it in and give the wheel a spin and apply the breaks then release the QR a tad and re-tighten this ensures your rotor is at the same alignment as your pads from your last install. I just wrote that to help the OP get his brakes right to start with because that issue will never go away if your initial setup is wrong from the start.


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## timberstone (Feb 20, 2009)

snaky69 said:


> A qr lever can tighten more on one side than the other, maybe you aren't tightening it up the same way every time, making it so the hub(thus the rotor) is never in the same place.


This is my guess to what's taking place on mine but who would have thought it would be a big deal. Never had a problem with my V-brakes but those are a different animal.

The first time I took the wheel off after playing with the quick release for about 10 minutes I was able to get it to work. The next time not so lucky and acutally backed off on the pads just so I could ride the bike without a rubbing. I will have to try the above.


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## billee (Jul 31, 2004)

I take my front wheel off twice for each ride to get my bike into my vehicle. No problems at all with BB-7's. Have you tried backing off the pads a little to leave more room? Mine are set so that the brakes apply with lever travel of about 50%.


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## NullPointer (Aug 4, 2008)

Thanks for the advice. I'll try the method of squeezing the brakes with the QR loose, then tightening again. I'm guessing too that since my rotors have a slight warp to them, the tolerance for being out of alignment is smaller.

What about self-centering hydraulic brakes? Does that automatically eliminate this issue because they adjust themselves?


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## Bikinfoolferlife (Feb 3, 2004)

NullPointer said:


> Thanks for the advice. I'll try the method of squeezing the brakes with the QR loose, then tightening again. I'm guessing too that since my rotors have a slight warp to them, the tolerance for being out of alignment is smaller.
> 
> What about self-centering hydraulic brakes? Does that automatically eliminate this issue because they adjust themselves?


Why not true your rotors? It's fairly easy and you can use a small adjustable wrench (or buy a specific tool), using the caliper as a guide, bend the high spots on the rotor back gently a bit at a time.

If your caliper is setup incorrectly on a hydraulic brake (or you vary the rotor position later), they'll still rub.


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## cth978 (Feb 9, 2009)

highdelll said:


> ^^^shut the fukk up... are you serious?? you do this every time you take off and put on a wheel?
> good god man...
> 
> NO YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE TO DO THIS!


If you didnt notice this is the beginner corner. Not everyone in the world knows EVERYTHING like you do. Why dont you stop being a prick for once and mabye give someone some real advice.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

cth978 said:


> If you didnt notice this is the beginner corner. Not everyone in the world knows EVERYTHING like you do. Why dont you stop being a prick for once and mabye give someone some real advice.


how do you figure that I was being a prick?...
I did give real advice in my previous post.


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

highdelll said:


> Umm, tighten it the same amount?


+1...make sure the wheel is correctly (fully) seated into the dropouts, tighten the QR the same amount every time and that is all you should have to do.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

NullPointer said:


> Whenever I take off the front wheel, I have to adjust my front disc brakes to stop them from rubbing. It seems that each time I put the wheel back on, the quick release is tightened differently, resulting in a slightly different placement of the rotor relative to the pads, resulting in rubbing. Brakes are Hayes MX4 mechanical. Is there some secret to avoid this? Would changing to hydraulic brakes make a difference because they are self-centering?


I tried reading some of the methods for putting a wheel on and my head is spinning. I think this is being waaaaay overcomplicated. You just need to make sure the wheel is FULLY seated the when you adjust the brakes to start with. To fully seat the wheel, I usually get the wheel more of less in straight when I first install it (with the bike upside down), turn the bike right side up, push down with my weight on the end of the bike with the wheel in question, then loosen and re-tighten the qr (open and close the lever), thus completely seating the wheel the same way each time. If you adjust your brakes when the wheel has been thus seated, it will line up every time you re-seat it that way.

If you fully seat the wheel and they are not well lined up with the brakes, adjust the brakes, not the wheels.

Another observation that may help: I notice that when I first spin a wheel after the bike has been sitting, I sometimes get a slight rub that goes away shortly. I think this could be to dirt or some other fine material getting in between the pads and rotors from either cleaning the bike, or even from being on the car on the way home.


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## Strive215 (Jun 9, 2009)

Thanks for the advice guys!


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