# 2018 Norco Charger 4.1 24" kids bike



## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

Went to see where my dude was at size wise and whether he fit on a Fluid 2.3 plus or the Charger 4.1 and, well, they were having a 20% off Labor day sale...and he was close enough on the Charger! Weight is 24.5ish with reflectors and steel pedals. The fork gave proper sag and seemed like it dampens with his weight. Cranks look too long but everything else fits nicely.

Post up if you have questions on it! I know it helps to have someone with the bike in hand when trying to figure out what to do for the kids!


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

The little dude is loving this bike. We have a lot of goathead thorns on our dry, hardback trails, so I went with the Rocket Ron 24x2.1 and went tubeless. Saves about 3/4lb over the Kenda's with tubes and gives way more traction on our terrain. With his weight, I'm guessing we'll end up in the teens for tire pressure.

This bike will be 10 speed with 11-36 gearing by next week, once I upgrade his sisters drivetrain and pass on the hand-me-downs :thumbsup:. After that, new bars, stem, seat post, clamp, pedal, skewers, and a Trailcraft DM crank.


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

Finally got to all the upgrades today...

The biggest improvement was the crank length. Even though the Trailcraft 140mm dm crank is quite nice, the Norco 152mm that came on the bike was actually pretty light. The heavy part is the square taper bottom bracket. But man, that 12mm reduction makes him fit soooo much better. The Trailcraft crank is pretty pricey so if you’re not trying to reduce weight or bearing friction, maybe look at the Spawn cranks. 

The next best improvement was the Cane Creek 40 series headset. It looked like there was a big spacer in there that prevented the handlebars from being lowered, but it was actually a bearing cup as well as a spacer. The new headset was 27 grams lighter and the sealed bearings will last much longer. The shorter headset and flat, 620mm carbon bar set the height perfect for my 48.5” 6 year old. 

I bought another set of Xpedo Spry pedals for this bike. If you’re looking for value on weight savings, these bad boys dropped 180 grams of weight over the stock pedals and have a much smoother bearing. Money well spent. 

The 10 speed system is in and it works but the rear triangle is so short that it makes for a pretty bad chainline. You can hear a tiny bit of grinding when pedaling the 36t cog. I think it would get pretty bad trying to go bigger than 36t or 11 speed but it works for now. 

Current weight is 22.78 lbs.


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## rabitoblanco (Feb 21, 2017)

This looks like a pretty good option, esp. liking the 67.5 ht angle. 

I'm seeing a "Charger 24" and the "Charger 4.1" what's the difference?


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

I think they renamed it the 24 for 2020 but it’s the same frame. Looks like some different parts and tires but generally the same.


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## SCLIZARD (Jul 10, 2018)

Awesome, thanks for the information! I just bought a used one tonight.
I plan to take it apart, clean it good and swap some parts on it and do the tubeless setup... what aftermarket stem, handlebar, and seatpost did you end up going with? Thanks again


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

Handlebar and seatpost are no-name amazon carbon. Stem is a 35mm at 1" dia.

I still really like this bike. Usually I'll keep tinkering with things but this doesn't really need anything... I may do a better fork when I pass it on to the next kid, since there's some really good options out there now.

?: @wildglassphoto on IG


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## nobody special (Jun 21, 2019)

MXIV424 said:


> Handlebar and seatpost are no-name amazon carbon. Stem is a 35mm at 1" dia.
> 
> I still really like this bike. Usually I'll keep tinkering with things but this doesn't really need anything... I may do a better fork when I pass it on to the next kid, since there's some really good options out there now.


Can the head tube take a tapered fork? It does not look tapered but I can't tell if it's a 44mm head tube.

Thanks.


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

No, straight tube


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## Darth Lefty (Sep 29, 2014)

Norco's range of kid bikes is amazing


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## SCLIZARD (Jul 10, 2018)

Wow, the one I got has been rode hard lol, I striped it down and cleaned and greased everything good. 
Converted the rear tire to tubeless Vee Crown Gems. Haven't done the front yet.

Now waiting on the new headset and handlebars to arrive...

Can't wait until my Son takes it for a ride!


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

:thumbsup:


SCLIZARD said:


> Wow, the one I got has been rode hard lol, I striped it down and cleaned and greased everything good.
> Converted the rear tire to tubeless Vee Crown Gems. Haven't done the front yet.
> 
> Now waiting on the new headset and handlebars to arrive...
> ...


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## SCLIZARD (Jul 10, 2018)

Did you by chance weigh the stock crankset with bb? 

I haven't pulled mine off yet and honestly not sure if I will at this time.. the stock arms seem super lightweight and the bb seems to spin very smooth.. I have another 155mm crankset I was going to swap over with a gxp bb but it weighs 802g with bb so now I am contemplating on buying a trailcraft set if it will save 100g or more.


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

Of course....who doesn't weight and photograph parts from kids bikes...


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## SCLIZARD (Jul 10, 2018)

Ha ha. Awesome!! Thanks a bunch..Yes. I put every part I removed on my scale and weighed it and snapped pictures..

I couldn't believe how heavy the stock handlebars were.

Time to sell his old bike and use that money for a trailcraft crankset.


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## TimTucker (Nov 9, 2011)

I'd be curious how much that stock bottom bracket weighs on its own -- if the stock arms are the right length and already pretty light, a Ti bottom bracket like these is significantly cheaper than a set of Trailcraft cranks:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32862781641.html


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## SCLIZARD (Jul 10, 2018)

Thanks for the idea Tim. I may go that route.. I think most of the standard square BBs are around 300g so my guess is using one of these TI ones would still save a solid 100g.


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

I changed it out for crank length and to run a 28t chainring. The weight savings alone isn’t worth the $170 for the crank. I already had a 10 speed drivetrain so going to an 11 speed with a wider range to keep the 32t usable was close to the same cost. The TC crank also has good resale when the time comes.


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## MonteHelm (Mar 19, 2020)

Got exact same Norco Charger for my little one at the weekend. 
I didn't know this model and this review has been incredibly helpful when one came up on ebay - thank you!



MXIV424 said:


> I went with the Rocket Ron 24x2.1 and went tubeless. Saves about 3/4lb over the Kenda's with tubes and gives way more traction on our terrain.


No experience with tubless, so 2 quick questions:
did you use the original wheels/rims - just tape, valve and sealant?
And for the tires, is it a particular "tubeless" version or just regular Rocket Ron (I guess with wire bead?).

Hopefully I'll upgrade the bikes of the whole family to tubeless... lots of thorny bushes along the local trails.

Many thanks


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

Sorry, yes. Stock wheels, Stans schrader valves, 60g worth of stans sealant per tire, and gorilla tape. Tires are liteskin version. Provide air until you Seat the bead then set Tire pressure in the mid high teens


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## MonteHelm (Mar 19, 2020)

Hey thanks for the info - much appreciated!

Schwalbe options for construction/compund are a bit overwhelming 
I finally manage to find some folding Rocket Rons - not sure it's the same you used, seem to be the regular version (i.e. non tubeless ready)... was reading about few people having trouble converting regular Schwalbes to tubeless, with the sealant slowly coming though the sidewalls.

Was also looking at Vee Gems (tubeless ready) but can't currently find them here in UK.

Other tubeless ready options I found available are:
Schwalbe Hans Dampf - looks cool in 2.35 but quite a bit heavier at 770g
Maxxis Snyper - only avail in 2.0 which is quite narrow...


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

The ones I have are 11600506.02 and I got them from Starbike or Bike24..I don’t remember which. 

Looks like pn 11654015 is the 2.35 version at 500g. I didn’t even know they offered that. I may be buying a set of those. 

I’ve never had an issue mounting Schwalbe’s, and the 24’ with the stock rims were the most difficult of the sizes to mount but have held air like a champ compared to the other sizes. The 27.5 on my oldest bike have to be checked regularly....but Kenda’s, they are absolutely the worst to mount. My oldest got some Sabre’s for the xc bike and hellkat for the dh and each one of them was a nightmare to mount. Great tires but geez


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## zoomin (Mar 16, 2010)

I have a Charger 4.1 on the way for my daughter. 

Can anyone tell me what the stock bb axle length is?

Thanks.


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## StanfordRacer (Sep 29, 2008)

zoomin said:


> I have a Charger 4.1 on the way for my daughter.
> 
> Can anyone tell me what the stock bb axle length is?
> 
> Thanks.


Just checked the one I pulled off--it says 115mm on it and measures at 116.5.


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## zoomin (Mar 16, 2010)

Thanks StanfordRacer!


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## zoomin (Mar 16, 2010)

Also, can anyone confirm what exact Cane Creek 40 headset is needed to get the lowest stack?

This will be slightly large for my daughter so want to slap the stem and maybe use a syntace drop stem on it.

Thanks much.


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## scottmh (May 6, 2020)

Great thread here. Can anyone comment on specific set ups for clutch derailleur and cassette upgrade for this bike? The kid is dropping chains like crazy with his riding. And he could really use an extra gear. I'm a bit of a noob!


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

Headset

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004JKEZIU/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would go 1x10 with a 26 or 28t 140ish crank, the lightest 11-36 cassette you want to afford, 10sp zee rd, xt or slx shifter and add a chain guide instead of using the clutch. Turning on a clutch makes it harder to shift and their little fingers struggle enough without it.

Also run the chain pretty tight, that can help with drops as well.


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

Here is the Funn chain guide we run on my daughters bike. Love it. Simple to adjust.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074V12LBP?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title


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## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

MXIV424 said:


> Headset
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004JKEZIU/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> ...


Ha. SRAM vs Shimano blood sport below 

I think a SRAM 10sp GX with a mid-cage derailleur and an 11-42 Sunrace cassette would be a hot setup for a 24" bike. Prevelo 140mm cranks with a 30t ring work well. We have these on a 11sp 10-42 with 30t and its REAL slow in that 42t cog. Agreed on the 28t or 26t for 11-36 cassette.

In our experience SRAM's clutchs are much better in the 10-11sp stuff. My oldest ran the SRAM 10sp GX on his 20" and Shimano XT 11sp on 24". Both have been good but I notice the clutch on the shimano isn't really functional as SRAMs. If I tighten it up, it creates drag when pedaling. If I loosen it more so, then the chaindrops once in a while. The shifter is clunky too...but the kid loves the double-down shift. I'm jealous as I click-click-click-click on my stupid 12sp Eagle.


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

I might just put axs on my youngest man bike and move it up with her until she goes to college...then I can stop thinking about upgrades for the next decade lol


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## rabitoblanco (Feb 21, 2017)

MXIV424 said:


> I might just put axs on my youngest man bike and move it up with her until she goes to college...then I can stop thinking about upgrades for the next decade lol


You mean, upgrades *related to drivetrain* 
There's still the entire rest of the bike to fuss about! 

And of course, she'll immediately take up BMX!

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk


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## CaptainDecisive (Sep 4, 2007)

MXIV424 said:


> I would go 1x10 with a 26 or 28t 140ish crank, the lightest 11-36 cassette you want to afford, 10sp zee rd, xt or slx shifter and add a chain guide instead of using the clutch. Turning on a clutch makes it harder to shift and their little fingers struggle enough without it.
> 
> Also run the chain pretty tight, that can help with drops as well.


Agreed that 1x10 with a 140mm crank works great on a 24" bike.
If you've already got (or the cranks can easily handle) a 28T or 30T chainring then an 11-36 cassette gives you a nice range and good granny gear.
My boy's 24" Islabike had a min 32T chainring so I went with the 11-40 cassette setup below to get the low gear and range I wanted.

Praxis 11-40 cassette which is still nice and light (~325g) and I picked up a very lightly used one on eBay pretty cheap.

Shimano Zee 10sp derailleur is excellent - short cage so better ground clearance and crisper shifting, steel cage I think so can handle a lot more mishandling/abuse than alu, handles 11-40 perfectly and is generally cheaper than an XT.

Shimano Saint 10sp shifter also excellent - silky 4 bearing internals (XTR level quality but half the price), 5mm longer levers for more leverage (ie easier shifting for small paws), changes multiple gears per shift.


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## Jeffro1702 (May 20, 2020)

Gday Guys, My young bloke (9 year old) has had his charger for two years. He loves it. We have noticed the front spocket has come loose.It wobbles. There appears to be play on the spline. Does this mean I need to replace the whole crankset? Am I better off replacing it anyway? Thanks. 
Also I have just purchased some Maxxis Rekons to upgrade to tubeless. Ill see how they go.


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## StanfordRacer (Sep 29, 2008)

Jeffro1702 said:


> Gday Guys, My young bloke (9 year old) has had his charger for two years. He loves it. We have noticed the front spocket has come loose.It wobbles. There appears to be play on the spline. Does this mean I need to replace the whole crankset? Am I better off replacing it anyway? Thanks.
> Also I have just purchased some Maxxis Rekons to upgrade to tubeless. Ill see how they go.


That sucks. Looking at mine, it's a non-removable chainring (press fit on?) so it doesn't look easy to fix. It's a shame because it's actually a quite nice crankset provided your kid is big enough for the 152mm arms. (I swapped mine out because my kid wasn't big enough, but I'm saving the crankset for when he's older.) Perhaps try some JB Weld to stop the wobble and hope it lasts until he's grown out of the bike? It's unlikely to work but might be worth a try given the cost of cranksets.


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

Check out Spawn for tapered bb cranks. I think they’re 140mm 32t for a good price.


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## Jeffro1702 (May 20, 2020)

Thanks heaps for the info. Thats a good idea.


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

Since our summer xc race series is probably out for this year, I went ahead and ordered more respectable tires for the dude. Watching him berm slash all the way down the trail with his skinny rr’s was the motivator. Trying out the Rekon rear with a DHF front for a summer of SkyPark, Summit, and Mammoth.


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## scottmh (May 6, 2020)

So I finally got the boy's 10 speed upgrade done. 

I ended up going Sunrace 11-42 10 speed cassette, Deore shifter and derailleur, and XT chain. I still have the stock 28T chainring for now. 

Super low on the 42 tooth -- probably lower than needed. Slight grinding noise now but I think it's the wear on the chainring. It's has been beat up pretty bad with the number of chain drops he's had in the last couple months. Looking to figure out the bottom bracket so I can change out the cranks and use a 30 or 32 tooth chainring. He could use a little more top end for the odd dirt jump track and casual rides. He seems fine with the 152 cranks so I plan to keep that length.

I have some Brood Maxtion tires on the way for him from Spawn in 2.3" that I plan to set up tubeless.

$$ is adding up but I think it will be a good build and still a little cheaper than a comparable new bike available in Canada. Not so much cross border ordering happening right now.


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## scottmh (May 6, 2020)

Mounted up the Brood Maxtion that I got from Spawn. Used gorilla tape on the wheels. They were not easy to get inflated. Took lots of sealant sloshing and changing angles, etc. Hear one pop indicating seating on each wheel but I couldn't hear a second one on either. He rode them and they seen fine. But I feel like I could easily unseat the bead by hand. If I push hard enough I can make it hiss. Is this normal for these small tires and wheels? I have the pressure at 30psi for now to make sure it's fully seated.


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

Every brand is different as far as seating goes. I won’t even let the kids be in the garage when I’m mounting Kenda’s...far too much cursing lol. 

You will get some seeping at the bead. Taking the wheels off the bike and laying them flat on each side for bit helps with sealing there. Putting pressure around the bead by hand will let some of the sealant get in there and help the seal. 

If you need something a little more secure, look up “ghetto tubeless” where you use a cut tube to make it work.


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## GSJ1973 (May 8, 2011)

scottmh said:


> Mounted up the Brood Maxtion that I got from Spawn. Used gorilla tape on the wheels. They were not easy to get inflated. Took lots of sealant sloshing and changing angles, etc. Hear one pop indicating seating on each wheel but I couldn't hear a second one on either. He rode them and they seen fine. But I feel like I could easily unseat the bead by hand. If I push hard enough I can make it hiss. Is this normal for these small tires and wheels? I have the pressure at 30psi for now to make sure it's fully seated.


If you don't hear a few pops, the bead seat diameter is probably pretty tall on that rim. We used to use Frost King window insutation, then a wrap of tubeless tape over that to build it up a bit (before Stans and other companies made tubeless specific rims).


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## scottmh (May 6, 2020)

Thanks for the tips. I think I got them by laying them on their side and filling them to 70psi. They are rated to 65psi. Got more than a few pops out of each one and they seem much better.
I think part of the issue was the tape was quite wide. There were some other holes close to the lip of the rim that I needed to seal with the tape. The tape probably made it harder for it to seat.
Running 20psi rear and 18psi front and I don't see him bashing the rim or rolling them in the corners. I might go a little lower and see how low I can go.
Any one else notice the seatpost is really short for climbing? He's an average height 7 year old and he has the post up past the max line for the uphill sections already.


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## Steve-XtC (Feb 7, 2016)

I swapped mine out because my kid wasn't big enough, but I'm saving the crankset for when he's older.

Mine outgrew his Norco 24" well before he was anywhere near tall enough to use the 152mm cranks. 

He's been on an adult XS for well over a year since and still barely tall enough.. recently he's been riding my medium XC HT and I've swapped the cranks to some older Deore that now have Dad (170mm) and Lad (148mm)


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

Well I was a little bummed at the tread height of the Rekon and immediately regretted not buying two DHF. However, as I began the install it started looking like rear clearance was going to be an issue....It turned out the Rekon is about max for the rear and that a DHF wouldn't fit, even though the 2.4 carcass only measures 2.1 on the stock rim. Rekon measures 2.05


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

Oh and weights on the Dhf and Rekon were 723g and 548 respectively. Unlike the RR though, I was unable to mount them tubeless and had to go ghetto tubeless.


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## CaptainDecisive (Sep 4, 2007)

Thanks for those weights MXIV424.
My two 24 x 2.2 Rekons were 549g and 553g, so they seem to weigh right on the 550g mark. The Rekon's profile when mounted was noticeably squarer and slightly larger than the Vee Tire Crown Gem 24 x 2.25 they replaced.
And 70g lighter :thumbsup:


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

Mammoth was good to us. That poor fork was overmatched and a little more clearance on the rear for bigger tread would have been nice but the dude was stoked and doesn't know any better hahah 路*♂


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## StanfordRacer (Sep 29, 2008)

I need some help figuring out what a little clip that came off my son's Norco Charger does and where it goes. 

See photo below. This came off when I was servicing the fork and bleeding the brakes. It is the right size and has the right features to fit on the 5mm allen bolts that attach the brake caliper to the bracket or the ones that attach the bracket to the fork, but I can't figure out what it does or which 5mm allen it goes on. It's of course possible there are supposed to be even more of these, and this is just the only one remaining. We're not the bike's first owners.









BTW, I am really impressed with these Shimano brakes. They might be bottom-of-the-line, but they were much easier to bleed than the pricier Avid brakes on my bike and they feel really good. This has converted me to Shimano for hydraulic brakes.


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## Steve-XtC (Feb 7, 2016)

StanfordRacer said:


> I need some help figuring out what a little clip that came off my son's Norco Charger does and where it goes.


It's a clip that goes on the caliper bolt to prevent it unscrewing. To be honest I've some calipers where I haven't bothered and they don't come undone. If you are worried instructions are in the shimano brakes pdfs but it just goes over the caliper then the bolt goes through.


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## StanfordRacer (Sep 29, 2008)

Steve-XtC said:


> It's a clip that goes on the caliper bolt to prevent it unscrewing.


Thanks, mystery solved! It's a clever feature, but there's only one remaining between both the front and the rear, so I'll stick to loctite and properly torquing those bolts, like I do on other bikes.


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## Jeffro1702 (May 20, 2020)

*Crankset Replacement*

Hi,
I am hoping someone may be able to assist with working out what type of crankset to get to replace the broken one on my sons charger. I am from Aus so I may be limited to choice. As per previous thread MXIV4 suggested 140mm bb crankset. I feel like I need some additional info to be able to determine exactly what I need to complete the replacement. So Im thinking I will need a "crankset" and a sprocket to match? Havent been in this situation before so sorry about the lack of knowledge. Ill need a crank puller as well I would think. Any assistance would be great.

Thanks


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

To remove the stock crank:

Ratchet with 13mm socket (I think that's the size, could be different)

Crank puller - https://www.parktool.com/product/crank-puller-for-square-taper-cranks-ccp-22

New cranks:

https://spawncycles.com/spawn-cycles-alloy-cranks-127

https://www.trailcraftcycles.com/product/trailcraft-1x-crank-option/

I would always recommend a decent torque wrench to fasten with but that's not required to get the job done.

If you're going to change the bottom bracket along with the crankset there's another tool you need but the cranks listed above should be perfect.


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## MonteHelm (Mar 19, 2020)

Finally had a go at setting the bike tubeless with Rocket Rons (the regular version, not the new 2.35... those costs almost 3x as much).

Tesa rim tape fitted nice and easy and after a lot of cursing, some soapy water and help from a Schwalbe Tire Booster (i don't have access to a compressor) got the tire to pop and sit in place.

But...
on the disc side it leaks pretty badly around around the bead.
The tire stays inflated but can't pump it up past around 18psi: after that, with soapy water around the rim, I see bubbles appearing all around 

I tried leaving the wheel on the side for a while, but no joy.


I guess our Friday ride will have to be postponed this week


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

Just confirming you added sealant? I usually get the bead to seat initially, then add sealant through the valve stem with the valve core removed, then bring it to pressure and rotate the tire to get the sealant to the leaky spots. Lastly, I’ll push near the bead around the leaky areas to get more sealant in there. 

That being said I did have to resort to the ghetto tubeless with the Maxxis tires so it’s not a perfect science.


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## MonteHelm (Mar 19, 2020)

Hi, yes added sealant. 
Initially I couldn't get the tire to seat, not even with the tire booster. So added sealant and left it overnight. Tried again this morning (with lots of soapy water) and boom the tire popped in place.

The rim tape looks fine to me but I fear I might have been a little naive and only done one single wrap around.

I'm leaving it flat on the side tonight and will try again tomorrow morning.



MXIV424 said:


> Lastly, I'll push near the bead around the leaky areas to get more sealant in there.


You mean you push on the sidewall as if to remove the tire? or push the tire from the top?


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

Push on the sidewall near the bead like you’re pushing the bead off the rim. Have that part you’re pushing on be the lowest point, that way it will burp a little and let sealant into that space. Also, if it will hold air for a bit, a few jumps off the curb will help it seat.


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## MonteHelm (Mar 19, 2020)

*You saved our weekend ride!*

So on saturday I tried pushing around the bead and... the tire popped off the rim - mounted again, but now was leaking all around, ha ha! Few laps on the pavement.

Sunday morning it was still leaking. 
Now, this was past cursing - I was almost in tears, defeated by the bloody thing, ready to rip it out and install a tube so we could go riding in the afternoon.
Few gentle laps around the garden... and by magic it was almost completely sealed! I could actually get some pressure in that tire
Few more jumps on the kerb with the help of my little tester and it was good to go, so managed to head to the trail center for the afteroon.
Yay!
Thanks for the help MXIV424 - you saved our weekend ride.

Now I get to do it all over again for the rear wheel 

And I need to figure out why my front wheel leaks around the valve.


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

He's getting to the point of me wanting to go FS but the bike continues be rad!!


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## tobyinsydney (Aug 10, 2006)

My 7 year old is (hopefully) going to be stoked to be receiving a Norco Charger for Christmas this year. Was fun to get this build together.

Managed a few sneaky upgrades:
Saint SL and RD with an XT 11-36 cassette
Jet Racing 140mm cranks
Race Face 30t ring
PRO Koryak bar (cut to 620mm) and stem (35mm)
Maxxis Minion DHR 2.4 tyres
XT M8040 pedals
XTR M9020 brakeset
XT RT86 160mm rotors
PRO frame protection kit

Good times ahead on this one I hope.


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## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

The spinner took a dump a while back. Something happened let loose and he began bottoming out on the crown. I had to add so much air to keep him from bottoming that it was basically rigid. Ended up buying this Manitou Markor in 26" 100mm. I thought it could be reduced to 80mm but it appears to just be a travel reduction and not a ac reduction. Oh well. Still works in 100mm but looks a little dirt jumpy. My boy said on a 1 to 10 it's "way more than a 10" so it seems like it will work. Will post up any issues or successes!


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