# Litech Magnesium Riders...



## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

Hey Litech people, I just snagged one off eBay, and have a couple of questions... What length travel fork are you using? How do you like your frames...?
Thanks!


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## Bladerunner (Jan 24, 2005)

Im using a old RockShox Judy with adjustable 60/80/100.
Great bike so far, even better price.  
Check it out here:http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=115050


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

As I recall, the frame geometry was based around a 63mm travel fork. At the time they made the original jigs for the frame, 63 was the norm for racing forks (Sids in particular) and 80 was considered long travel. The company that designed the frames was doing so for the racing market, as they';d had several olympic and pro road racers on their road frames already.


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

The Frame is EXTREMELY light, i bought one about 6 months ago and still building it (problems with money and not enough of it), but it is 10 ounces lighter than the Mongoose IBOC carbon Team frame, And as for the fork question, I'm using a Rock Shox Pilot Race Fork, 80mm of Travel I believe, but even though that is too large says DeeEight, it doesn't look too out of proportion to the frame

Enjoi The Frame Fellow Litech Owner


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

I can't wait to see mine now... I'm guessing it'll be here next week. It's really surprising that not more people are jumping on those frames with their extremely low prices... So far though, I haven't read anything bad about 'em. Seems that some people don't believe they're really magnesium (supposedly 94%), and others think mag is a problem... Maybe I'll get a couple more in the small size, and build 'em for my kids; they're that cheap!


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

spudy said:


> Enjoi The Frame Fellow Litech Owner


Thanks spudy! Tell me; what did you use for a front derailleur?


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

well, like i said i'm still building it up, don't quite have a front or rear derailer yet, still looking for some cheap XTR parts, but when you do recieve the bike frame, it comes with a paper that tells all about the frame, and what parts fit where, and it says on there somewhere what size front derailler to use. And The frame should come with various stickers saying MAGNESIUM and what not. Since Your building up one of these too, lets keep in touch with what parts were buying and where, i'm tight on money and i'm looking for good discounts, e-mail me. I'll send you a pm with my e-mail in it.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

spudy said:


> well, like i said i'm still building it up, don't quite have a front or rear derailer yet, still looking for some cheap XTR parts, but when you do recieve the bike frame, it comes with a paper that tells all about the frame, and what parts fit where, and it says on there somewhere what size front derailler to use. And The frame should come with various stickers saying MAGNESIUM and what not. Since Your building up one of these too, lets keep in touch with what parts were buying and where, i'm tight on money and i'm looking for good discounts, e-mail me at [email protected]


Thanks spud; I'll email you after I get the frame & start with building it up. So far though, I've picked up a few other "budget lightweight" bits for the build... Some NOS GT-Hadley hubs (285/145 grams)-$48 shipped, a KULT headset (85 grams)-$26 shipped, cheap NOS Syncros riser bars (195 grams uncut)- $11 shipped, and a NOS Weyless stem (145 grams with steel bolts; going to swap in Ti)-$14 shipped.
The plan is to build a good quality, durable, under 20# hardtail, with all NOS/new parts for under $800, and all of it off eBay....


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

*TheOtherGuy*"The plan is to build a good quality, durable, under 20# hardtail, with all NOS/new parts for under $800"

Great Minds Think Alike!


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## trailrunnerx (Jul 22, 2005)

TheOtherGuy said:


> Hey Litech people, I just snagged one off eBay, and have a couple of questions... What length travel fork are you using? How do you like your frames...?
> Thanks!


I ride a Litech Frame too, finished building it about a month ago. I'm using a Sid Team w/ 80mm of travel. 
So far I like the frame, it's light and rides really well, buying a frame that cheap allowed me to spend more money on parts ...

the only problem I had, is the limited choice of colors (15 inch frame), Got a yellow and repainted it ...


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

trailrunnerx said:


> I'm using a Sid Team w/ 80mm of travel.
> So far I like the frame, it's light and rides really well, buying a frame that cheap allowed me to spend more money on parts ...


I was wanting to go with a SID as well, mostly 'cause there's nothing else as light in a suspension fork. Not sure if a new SID is in the budget though...
Maybe someone's got a NOS one from '92 or thereabouts that will turn up on eBay...

BTW- what vintage and model was considered the all-around best of the SID ?


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

*SID was a new model in 1998...*

in that baby blue color they used to use, had 63mm travel, air-spring with C3 damper cartridge.

Pilot forks are basically the old Judy model with coil-springs, HC2 open bath damping, and steel upper legs. They're quite heavy forks (1.9kg is the lightest one there is, uncut steerer). They did offer the cheapest way to get motion control damping in 2005 though (about 2/3 the price of the cheapest Reba model).

A Good light budget that fits the frame geometry would be one of the Noleen Crosslinks that ediscount still has. A 3.5 pound Crosslink Expert can be had for $60+S&H and has 75mm of travel.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

DeeEight said:


> A Good light budget that fits the frame geometry would be one of the Noleen Crosslinks that ediscount still has. A 3.5 pound Crosslink Expert can be had for $60+S&H and has 75mm of travel.


Thanks for that DeeEight... I'll keep my eyes on those. Seems ed's is starting most of those at $99 now. Since I know nothing about those forks, is there a model of Noleen to be avoided, or are they all decent?


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

It depends what they have left, in Feb when I got my Crosslink Elite they had hundreds of the forks still, experts, aluminium elites, carbon elites, and carbon smartshocks (should avoid, the shocks have water issues...as in, water gets in and kills the electronics, not to mention it sucks a 9Vbattery dry in about 8 hours of usage). Now they're down to a handfull of forks. Its the same thing that happened with the Noleen MegaAirs, at one time, they had hundreds (I bought 7 myself), but 6 months after I bought mine (at $99US each), people were paying a premium and forks were going upwards of $160-180 in the bidding.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

DeeEight said:


> It depends what they have left


All I see now is the Crosslink EXP... Are they decent?


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

try searching for more than just the next 24 hours. I looked an hour ago and saw 8 or 9 forks.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

DeeEight said:


> try searching for more than just the next 24 hours....


I'll do that.

OK; I think I've figured out that "EXP" is Expert, and "ELT" Elite, but what's a "CS" and a "C"? Are they Carbon Smart, and Carbon?
Might you (or anyone else) know the difference in spec. between Elite, Expert, CS, and C (besides the obvious material difference between carbon/aluminum)? It would be nice to know more about what I should be looking for, and why one is better, lighter, smoother, stronger... Assuming "Elite" is better than "Expert" (??), what's the difference? Just curious, really.


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

Elite got the rebound adjustable shock, smartshocks had manual rebound adjustment and computer controlled compression adjustment. The computer adjusted the compression damping about 50 times a second. Its technology K2 originally developed for skis. Catch was, besides the fault seals for the computer box, and the battery consumption, there was the problem that by the time the computer processed the force of impact the shock was taking, and made a decision on to how to set the damper, you're body is already feeling the impact. Its not much good actually to set the compression damping while the fork is in the middle of compressing. It would have been better had it self-adjusted the rebound damping.
C would be carbon legs with the elite shock, CS is carbon legs and carbon smart shock. The Expert is actually the lightest ones, depending on steerer length.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

*Those Crosslinks...*



DeeEight said:


> Elite got the rebound adjustable shock...
> C would be carbon legs with the elite shock, CS is carbon legs and carbon smart shock. The Expert is actually the lightest ones, depending on steerer length.


Thanks again! That's what I was wanting to know about 'em.
My guess is that that the Crosslink (any of) can be made lighter still with the substitution of a Risse Genesis...? And maybe some hardware tuning with Ti or aluminum bolts...?
What else can be done with 'em to improve performance and lighten 'em up? I'll probably snag one or more of the "EXP" Crosslinks that Ed's has on eBay.... Their prices do seem decent enough for the "budget lightweight" build, and the Girvin/Noleen design intrigues me.


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## BadHabit (Jan 12, 2004)

TheOtherGuy said:


> Hey Litech people, I just snagged one off eBay, and have a couple of questions... What length travel fork are you using? How do you like your frames...?
> Thanks!


I've been riding one under the Lodestar name for six years. Won't give it up.

It has always had a rather tall White Bros SC90 (Englunds) on it and I do not complain.

Even with a 3.7 lb fork and 400 gram P2 suspension post (and xtr OGD's  ) it's in at under 22.

Enjoy.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

*Here's my frame...*

It got here today, and I pressed the headset cups. This frame _really_ feels light! Build quality looks... well, OK I guess. It's no work of art, but so light it's cool anyway. These headset cups will have no trouble clearing any aftermarket shock I put on either (on the Noleen Crosslink fork); they're quite minimal. My EXP fork should get here next week.... Can't wait!


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## BadHabit (Jan 12, 2004)

TheOtherGuy said:


> It got here today, and I pressed the headset cups. This frame _really_ feels light! Build quality looks... well, OK I guess. It's no work of art, but so light it's cool anyway. These headset cups will have no trouble clearing any aftermarket shock I put on either (on the Noleen Crosslink fork); they're quite minimal. My EXP fork should get here next week.... Can't wait!


When I got mine in the mail and lifted it up, my hand sort of jumped upwards due to the unexpected airiness of it. 

Build quality--Hungarian, not that there's anything wrong with that: My seat tube bottle cage mount is too low to work! Cluster welds are not great. But visually a very nice item overall.

Yours looks very nice! I love having no graphics to object to. Going to find an e-type derailleur okay?

I emailed a seller two weeks ago about a spare! But never heard back; maybe it's yours .

Anyway--you are in for a treat. I've got to take some pics to trade.

My Lodestar saved my life! Really! But that is another story.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

BadHabit said:


> ..Going to find an e-type derailleur okay?...
> Anyway--you are in for a treat. I've got to take some pics to trade.
> 
> My Lodestar saved my life! Really! But that is another story.


I'll have to hear the story some time... I'll take more pics as it's going together. As for the E-Type, they seem to show up regularly on eBay, as do plain clamp-ons in 34.9. I think I can use either, but I want XTR grade there. For the rear, I think XTR or X.0; not sure yet.


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## tl1 (Dec 21, 2003)

TheOtherGuy said:


> IAs for the E-Type, they seem to show up regularly on eBay, as do plain clamp-ons in 34.9. I think I can use either, but I want XTR grade there. For the rear, I think XTR or X.0; not sure yet.


Cambria has LX e-types that are quite light and inexpensive. I ordered one for my Litech but haven't installed it yet. My LX e-type weighs an actual 135 grams while my 2004 XT low clamp M760 is 164 grams!

An "8 speed" for $10: http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=10184
A "9-speed" for $25: http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=8569

I'm not sure there's really much difference between them but I sprung for the 9 speed to try to avoid any clearance aggravation using it with my 9 speed drivetrain.

I really like the yellow color of your frame.


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

I love the yellow color, i'm kinda doing a yellow theme to my bike two. I also just realized that the brake bosses on these frames are titanium! these frames are AMAZING!


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## El Caballo (Nov 22, 2004)

I've had one for years: ordered factory-direct and built it up myself. Here's what you need to keep in mind:

1) The stock seatpost shim is way too short, and it's easy to crack the frame at the seat/top tube junction. Pull it out (it's stuck in there with adhesive) and put in a real one from Problem Solvers (or whoever) that's long enough.

2) The rear stays are so flexible as to be useless for V-brakes. If you're running Vs, you need a brake booster.

3) The bottle cage mounts on the seat tube go right where the derailleur wants to clamp. I had to file one of them off and clamp over it.

4) Even then, the chainstay is in the way of the derailleur, so you can't adjust it quite right. It seems to work OK, but if you want the clearance to be perfect you'll need an E-type (BB mount) derailleur.

5) It's a bit flexy in the bottom bracket. Hammering Clydes may be annoyed by this.

On the good side, it's really, really, really light, and mine hasn't failed yet.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

El Caballo said:


> 1) The stock seatpost shim is way too short, and it's easy to crack the frame at the seat/top tube junction. Pull it out (it's stuck in there with adhesive) and put in a real one from Problem Solvers (or whoever) that's long enough.
> 
> 2) The rear stays are so flexible as to be useless for V-brakes. If you're running Vs, you need a brake booster.
> 
> ...


Interesting... Mine has no bottle bosses on the seat tube, and no seatpost shim. While I haven't measured it yet, it's supposed to take a 30.9mm seatpost, and I see no reason to want a shim.
Thanks for the tips on the e-type & brake booster... The stays do seem a bit flexy.


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## tl1 (Dec 21, 2003)

TheOtherGuy said:


> Interesting... Mine has no bottle bosses on the seat tube, and no seatpost shim. While I haven't measured it yet, it's supposed to take a 30.9mm seatpost, and I see no reason to want a shim.
> Thanks for the tips on the e-type & brake booster... The stays do seem a bit flexy.


I haven't noticed flexy stays or bottom bracket at all and I'm heavier than average. In fact my front and rear braking seems quite exceptional w/o any brake booster. Part of this is the Mavic 519 rims I chose to use, they have a very nice sidewall/brake track. The stiff Kinesis fork and Avid Single Digit SL brakes and levers don't hurt either but my frame is solid and free from flexing the stays and bottom bracket in unwanted ways. Perhaps there's considerable differences in the frames between different years production runs.

I don't have a seatpost shim either, I just pulled my seatpost out and looked in there again with a bright flashlight. It's just straight magnesium tubing with no shim but I was surprised to find a couple of styrofoam peanuts in there from shipping though. 8^) I noticed in the pictures that your frame didn't seem to have water bottle holes on the seat tube but mine does have them.


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## El Caballo (Nov 22, 2004)

It's entirely possible that things have changed in the years since I bought mine. 

Sounds like they ditched the seatpost shim, which is good. I would have done so myself and gone with the 30.9 but I had a 27.2 Thudbuster.

Doesn't surprise me that they ditched the seat tube bottle bosses, either, since they were useless. Now if they only had disc brake tabs...

Other than no tabs, the yellow frame in the picture looks the same as mine. It was scary...the first time I tried to use the rear brake I thought I had broken something, because the lever squished to the bar and I barely even slowed down! It took quite a bit of messing about with the cable tension before I realized that the seatstays were the problem. One brake booster later, everything is fine.


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## tl1 (Dec 21, 2003)

El Caballo said:


> Now if they only had disc brake tabs...


Their newest models do (or did) have disc brake tabs. Litech's website has been off the web for a little while but it was working a month or so ago. They had some cool new models too like a beefy magnesium dual-slalom/jump bike and an updated XC model along with a slightly goofy looking full suspension bike, all with disc mounts. Hopefully, they're they'll be back and are not gone forever.

Non working Litech site: www.litech-mg.ru/company.html


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## tl1 (Dec 21, 2003)

There is still a site that shows the different Litech models and I guess sells them too.










http://www.mgbiker.20m.com/index.htm


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## Guest (Aug 1, 2005)

*Bankrupt, but...*



tl1 said:


> Their newest models do (or did) have disc brake tabs. Litech's website has been off the web for a little while but it was working a month or so ago. They had some cool new models too like a beefy magnesium dual-slalom/jump bike and an updated XC model along with a slightly goofy looking full suspension bike, all with disc mounts. Hopefully, they're they'll be back and are not gone forever.
> 
> Non working Litech site: www.litech-mg.ru/company.html


Litech went bankrupt but were purchased by another company and are marketed by someone in the US. I have contact info if interested.

Matt


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

*fork's on...*

Slowly going together. Waiting on some Avid SD Ti brakes; they'll go on next. Wheels are some I had around, and I'll get the bike going with them before building some lighter ones. These aren't too bad with old S-Works rims, 14/16 gauge spokes and XT hubs, but new set will be lighter. I'll trim the fork steerer later on, it's up a bit high left uncut. I want that stem down on the "ULM" without any spacers, but I need to try it out first... Feels light so far.


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## tl1 (Dec 21, 2003)

Wow, that white with yellow letters linkage fork looks quite good with the yellow frame! 

Did you happen to weigh either your fork or your frame before assembly? My 19" Litech was 1400 grams.


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## Bender (Jan 12, 2004)

TheOtherGuy try finding some Avid Mag V's. I think they are lighter than the TI Avids stock. I had mine down to about 139g a wheel.


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

Wow, thats a very creative fork, I've heard of the brand Noleen, but never seen a suspension fork like that before, does it work as well as standard ones?, is it heavier?, whats the travel?


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

spudy said:


> Wow, thats a very creative fork, I've heard of the brand Noleen, but never seen a suspension fork like that before, does it work as well as standard ones?, is it heavier?, whats the travel?


Well, I haven't ridden it yet...but it feels pretty smooth. Weight right around 3.5 pounds, 3" travel. So far, I like it! We'll see how it actually works before too long... Thanks to DeeEight for recommending that one.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

Bender said:


> TheOtherGuy try finding some Avid Mag V's....


I'll be looking. The Ti's aren't too heavy, so I grabbed a set of those. Is the hot tip to swap the Ti bits over to the Mags to lighten 'em up further?


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

tl1 said:


> Wow, that white with yellow letters linkage fork looks quite good with the yellow frame!
> 
> Did you happen to weigh either your fork or your frame before assembly? My 19" Litech was 1400 grams.


Sorry; I didn't weigh 'em... I'll build the thing up with bits I think are pretty light, based on info I find and recommendations I get, then weigh the thing all together. I can always pull bits off, modify, replace with lighter hardware etc., later on. I think that with the bits I'm choosing, it'll be right around my goal of 20 pounds, but I'll know when it's together...


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## goldrush (Dec 30, 2003)

I'm thinking about getting one of these frames for my son who outgrew his old bike. One of the things he really wants is disc brakes. Is there a good disk brake adapter out there that works? Does anyone have any experience with this one?

http://www.discbrakeadapters.com

I've noticed the prices these frames go for on Ebay have inched up....... perhaps it's because of the attention it gets on this forum. What's the lowest price someone has paid for one of these frames?


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

goldrush said:


> I'm thinking about getting one of these frames for my son who outgrew his old bike....I've noticed the prices these frames go for on Ebay have inched up....... perhaps it's because of the attention it gets on this forum. What's the lowest price someone has paid for one of these frames?


Got mine for $99 + the shipping, but I just saw an auction for a "KEEF" labled one finish at something like $76 + $20 shipping.... Not too bad. I still think they're a deal at under $150. Can't help with the disc brake adapter, though they look like they'd work fine. Are discs really needed when you're not constantly in the muddy wet? I'll go with the V-brakes for now; they're lighter & cheaper.


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## tl1 (Dec 21, 2003)

TheOtherGuy said:


> Got mine for $99 + the shipping, but I just saw an auction for a "KEEF" labled one finish at something like $76 + $20 shipping.... Not too bad. I still think they're a deal at under $150. Can't help with the disc brake adapter, though they look like they'd work fine. Are discs really needed when you're not constantly in the muddy wet? I'll go with the V-brakes for now; they're lighter & cheaper.


Mine was $103.50 but they usually go for around $120-130 now it seems. I put the LX e-type derailleur on mine and it works perfectly and took around 30 grams of weight off from the M760 XT derailleur.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

tl1 said:


> ...I put the LX e-type derailleur on mine and it works perfectly and took around 30 grams of weight off from the M760 XT derailleur.


I'm curious; what's the finished weight of yours? Mine still isn't fully built...


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## > than you (Mar 13, 2005)

TheOtherGuy said:


> I'm curious; what's the finished weight of yours? Mine still isn't fully built...


According to my spreadsheet it's 21.624 lbs. as built right now. I have a scale and have weighed each part individually. That's with some pretty beefy parts though like a big 2.25" Geax Sedona front tire, a cross 3 brass nippled, 14/15 g. spoked Mavic 519 wheelset w/Velox tape, LX M572 cranks and bottom bracket and a very comfy Avocet 254 gram saddle. I built it to be sturdy and troublefree as well as relatively lightweight and it has been so far.

I have another of the GT rear hubs and will probably do a lighter wheelset with DT Revolution spokes, alu nipples, lighter rims etc. and some other changes over the winter but nothing that should sacrifice the reliability and ridability under my large posterior.


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## tl1 (Dec 21, 2003)

> than you said:


> According to my spreadsheet it's 21.624 lbs. as built right now. I have a scale and have weighed each part individually. That's with some pretty beefy parts though like a big 2.25" Geax Sedona front tire, a cross 3 brass nippled, 14/15 g. spoked Mavic 519 wheelset w/Velox tape, LX M572 cranks and bottom bracket and a very comfy Avocet 254 gram saddle. I built it to be sturdy and troublefree as well as relatively lightweight and it has been so far.
> 
> I have another of the GT rear hubs and will probably do a lighter wheelset with DT Revolution spokes, alu nipples, lighter rims etc. and some other changes over the winter but nothing that should sacrifice the reliability and ridability under my large posterior.


That was me, tl1, on my son's log in. 8^)


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

> than you said:


> According to my spreadsheet it's 21.624 lbs. as built right now. I have a scale and have weighed each part individually....I built it to be sturdy and troublefree as well as relatively lightweight and it has been so far.


I like it. That's still quite light, and probably pretty tough too.

I was going to shoot for under 20#, but I've done a rethink... I'm not that light myself, and need a durable bike... So, mine will probably end up around 22#, partly 'cause my wheel build (GT hubs/DT 2.0-1.8/Sun SUB IV-OEM) needs to support my 190#s, and I'm wanting to use a Brooks saddle, either my heavy steel railed B-17, or maybe a Swift.


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## goldrush (Dec 30, 2003)

TheOtherGuy said:


> Got mine for $99 + the shipping, but I just saw an auction for a "KEEF" labled one finish at something like $76 + $20 shipping.... Not too bad. I still think they're a deal at under $150. Can't help with the disc brake adapter, though they look like they'd work fine. Are discs really needed when you're not constantly in the muddy wet? I'll go with the V-brakes for now; they're lighter & cheaper.


The disc brakes are just a "wanna have 'em just because" kind of thing. If I get one of the frames I have a Marzocchi 80mm fork to put on it. If this frame is designed for a shorter travel fork will it mess up the handling or is it not that noticeable. The trails we ride are mostly pretty tight and twisty singletrack through the trees.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

goldrush said:


> ...If I get one of the frames I have a Marzocchi 80mm fork to put on it. If this frame is designed for a shorter travel fork will it mess up the handling or is it not that noticeable. The trails we ride are mostly pretty tight and twisty singletrack through the trees.


The 80mm should be about right. The Noleen fork I put on is supposed to be around 75mm travel, and with it, the BB height still looks reasonably low; at least an 1.5" lower than the axles.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

TheOtherGuy said:


> Got mine for $99 + the shipping, but I just saw an auction for a "KEEF" labled one finish at something like $76 + $20 shipping.... Not too bad. I still think they're a deal at under $150. Can't help with the disc brake adapter, though they look like they'd work fine. Are discs really needed when you're not constantly in the muddy wet? I'll go with the V-brakes for now; they're lighter & cheaper.


I won the yellow "Keef". The dude is a total ass, same guy selling the purple one. He listed as new and i got a frame that was very used; 2 weeks to ship, old headset cups in the frame, heavy chain marks, bent derailleur hanger, and slightly crushed rear dropout.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

tl1 said:


> Mine was $103.50 but they usually go for around $120-130 now it seems. I put the LX e-type derailleur on mine and it works perfectly and took around 30 grams of weight off from the M760 XT derailleur.


TL, is that the emerald green or the forest green?


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## mpap89 (Mar 10, 2005)

what a dick


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## trailrunnerx (Jul 22, 2005)

I got my Litech for $125, a yellow 15' frame, repainted it in black, just finshed building it a few days ago ...
Here is the final product...


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

trailrunnerx said:


> I got my Litech for $125, a yellow 15' frame, repainted it in black, just finshed building it a few days ago ...
> Here is the final product...


Great looking bike! Don't think those wheels would hold me up though... What's it all weigh in at?


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

*Nice, whats it weigh?*



trailrunnerx said:


> I got my Litech for $125, a yellow 15' frame, repainted it in black, just finshed building it a few days ago ...
> Here is the final product...


Looks like you put a lot of $$ Bling into your bike.


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## tl1 (Dec 21, 2003)

Ratt said:


> TL, is that the emerald green or the forest green?


I'm not sure but when I bought it they had a choice in greens of shiny green or a textured matte finish green. Mine is the shiny green.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

tl1 said:


> Mine is the shiny green.


It's the one "blkamos" calls "gloss emerald green". They've got one pic where I'm guessing the camera flash or lighting makes it look brighter. The emerald green looks pretty good in the sunlight though.... I just got 2 more of the frames in green; a 15" & another 17". I'll build these up for my family pretty soon.


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## BadHabit (Jan 12, 2004)

trailrunnerx said:


> I got my Litech for $125, a yellow 15' frame, repainted it in black, just finshed building it a few days ago ...
> Here is the final product...


Very nice one! With the Sid and the SLs, it's got to be down around 20 lbs or less. The XTR stuff looks great on it.

Funny how Salt Cycles I think is still selling mg frames (a bit nicer, possibly) for over $1,000.


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## trailrunnerx (Jul 22, 2005)

Here are the stats

FRAME: Litech Magnesium 15'
FORK: Rock Shox Sid Team w/ remote lockout
HEADSET: Cane Creek S1
HEADSET SPACER: Cane Creek
STEM: Race Face Prodigy
HANDLEBAR: Weyless Carbon
GRIPS: Ouri
SEATPOST: Easton EC 70
SADDLE: Italia SLR
BRAKES: Avid SL
SHIFTERS	:R -Shimano XTR , F-??
BRAKE LEVERS: Avid SL
FRONT DERAILLEUR	: XTR 960 GSG
REAR DERAILLEUR: XTR 960 GSG
CRANKSET & BB: XTR
PEDALS: Crankbros Egg Beater C
CHAIN: XTR/ Dura Ace
CASSETTE: XT
WHEELS: 2005 Crossmax SL
TIRES: Michelin XCR All- Terrain Tubeless

Comes to 9650 gr, lots of parts from my old bike, some parts from e-bay ("cheap" crossmax at $650) ...
I race at Xterra (off-road triathlon), this bike was built because I was tired of racing on my old 27 lbs Fisher!


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

That looks Very Clean and nice, Tell us how you went through the painting process, I know that my frame came with a sheet telling me not to do that. Also, Was it a struggle getting the XTR crank with the new bottom bracket? I wonder because I was just reading a thing about them that said they work only with 68mm and 72mm Bottom bracket shells.


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## trailrunnerx (Jul 22, 2005)

spudy said:


> That looks Very Clean and nice, Tell us how you went through the painting process, I know that my frame came with a sheet telling me not to do that. Also, Was it a struggle getting the XTR crank with the new bottom bracket? I wonder because I was just reading a thing about them that said they work only with 68mm and 72mm Bottom bracket shells.


My frame also came with the sheet that says : don't paint. But really didn't like the yellow ...the frame is so cheap anyway, there isn't much to loose . Painting was easy, just a light sanding, then spray paint and a clear coat for protection . Couple of chips so far, but nothing too bad, we'll see how is the paint job is by the end of the season. 
As for the crankset, I really can't say, I had a bike mechanic mount the crankset for me ...


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

Just got a emerald green frame from eBay. It "looks" really nice but I may have gotten someone's return frame because this is going to be a tough build. These are not the frame for someone to do their first build up.

The rear brake bosses are a mess. I couldn't push my brakes on at first and had to scrape clear tape off the posts . The shoulder on the post is on the short side and the build up of powder coat on the frame wouldn't let my brakes move freely, i had to shim the up the posts. I couldn't get a bolt close to starting to tighten the brakes to the frame, I had to chase the threads in the posts with a tap. The posts are misaligned and causes some binding with my Avid Arches.

The bottom bracket threads are very rough. I "chased" them with a steel bottom bracket, no signs of any threads stripping but it is still very tight putting a BB in there.

The head tube had a small dent on the top lip that was covered with power coating, I cut the dent down with a razor blade. The headtube should be reamed to remove all the paint inside it but they don't recommend it.

The seat post inserts about 5" before it binds. I got a 400mm post to strengthen this area, looks like i am going to have to cut it.


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

That's terrible, I didn't have any of those problems with mine... I think its the different ebay sellers. So far I'd stick with blkamos. This person is really well to deal with and has great reviews.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

Ratt said:


> Just got a emerald green frame from eBay....These are not the frame for someone to do their first build up.
> 
> The rear brake bosses are a mess. I couldn't push my brakes on at first and had to scrape clear tape off the posts . The shoulder on the post is on the short side and the build up of powder coat on the frame wouldn't let my brakes move freely, i had to shim the up the posts. I couldn't get a bolt close to starting to tighten the brakes to the frame, I had to chase the threads in the posts with a tap....The bottom bracket threads are very rough. I "chased" them with a steel bottom bracket, no signs of any threads stripping but it is still very tight putting a BB in there.
> ...The headtube should be reamed to remove all the paint inside it but they don't recommend it.
> The seat post inserts about 5" before it binds. I got a 400mm post to strengthen this area, looks like i am going to have to cut it.


Sounds like you've got a problem child...! Mine was a little trouble, but not all that bad; maybe I'm used to building up NOS frames that require some prep. It's pretty common that seat tubes require a little honing for a perfect fit. I know Litech recommends against going through their anti-corrosion coating, but you grease your seat post anyway; right? The grease should keep the Mg from corroding, for at least a couple years, I think. My head tube needed the powder coat removed before I pressed the headset, and I did that with some 320 grit wet-dry paper. It uncovered the alloy in a couple of spots, but I pressed the cups in with anti-sieze, so I think I wont have trouble there. The cups are well aligned, so the head tube didn't need facing. I did also have to chase the threads in the Ti brake studs, but mine look to be aligned OK. I removed 'em, then threaded 'em onto a tap in my vise. I put 'em back into the frame with some LocTite. Anti-sieze went on the threads before I screwed in the Ti bolts (Ti bolts, Ti studs). The brake spring pins didn't line up with any of their holes, so I slotted the center one with the Dremel & cut-off disc, then used yellow Testor's enamel where the Mg alloy was bare. My BB threads seemed very good; not too tight or loose. I'm using a flangeless MRC Ti BB in it that's got 68mm cup spacing... Looks like it won't be a problem, as the chainrings & crank arms are right where they should be.


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

What kind of crank did you get for yours THeotherguy?


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

spudy said:


> What kind of crank did you get for yours THeotherguy?


I'm using these Caramba cranks. They look pretty beefy, but are actually very light.


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

Those have a very uniqe look to them, I wonder if theres a reason for the offset pedal, more strength or something. Keep informed on the build.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

spudy said:


> ...I wonder if theres a reason for the offset pedal, more strength or something.


More strength (stiffness) with less weight. They're hollow arms, double drilled from each end:


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

Is That an Ebay buy? and how much do they weigh in grams? I'm intrested, but I think I'll stick with the Truvativ Stylo Cranks I'm thinking about buying.


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

Is That an Ebay buy? and how much do they weigh in grams? I'm intrested, but I think I'll stick with the Truvativ Stylo Cranks I'm thinking about buying.


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

TheOtherGuy, Where did you get your bottom bracket? I'm having serious trouble finding a ISIS Bottom Bracket that weighs under 200 grams for cheap.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

spudy said:


> TheOtherGuy, Where did you get your bottom bracket?...


That too was an eBay buy. I've decided against using it for this Litech build though... I bought one of the $9.95 E-Type LX front derailleurs, so I went with this UN-91 XTR BB:


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

Another question: I recieved a sheet of paper with my frame saying that I could only use 73mm bottom bracket shells, but I see your using 68mm. Did you get this sheet to, but still got 68mm to work? or is yours a complete different frame?


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

spudy said:


> Another question: I recieved a sheet of paper with my frame saying that I could only use 73mm bottom bracket shells, but I see your using 68mm. Did you get this sheet to, but still got 68mm to work? or is yours a complete different frame?


68 will work if the spindle length puts your crank arms where they need to be, and if your cups aren't both flanged.

My frame also has the 73mm shell, and this XTR BB is marked 68 UN-91, and also BC 1.37 73... I think the cups I have here are for the 73mm shell. At any rate, the crank arms are centered.


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

My buildup should be done by the end of this upcoming week. Just got my crankset and rear derailleur in from ChainReactioncycles.com. This place is amazing, even though the parts are in England, the prices are really good. They came to my door in days, it was amazingly fast! I highly recomend them.


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## wycx (Sep 2, 2005)

TheOtherGuy said:


> Sounds like you've got a problem child...! Mine was a little trouble, but not all that bad; maybe I'm used to building up NOS frames that require some prep. It's pretty common that seat tubes require a little honing for a perfect fit. I know Litech recommends against going through their anti-corrosion coating, but you grease your seat post anyway; right? The grease should keep the Mg from corroding, for at least a couple years, I think. My head tube needed the powder coat removed before I pressed the headset, and I did that with some 320 grit wet-dry paper. It uncovered the alloy in a couple of spots, but I pressed the cups in with anti-sieze, so I think I wont have trouble there. The cups are well aligned, so the head tube didn't need facing. I did also have to chase the threads in the Ti brake studs, but mine look to be aligned OK. I removed 'em, then threaded 'em onto a tap in my vise. I put 'em back into the frame with some LocTite. Anti-sieze went on the threads before I screwed in the Ti bolts (Ti bolts, Ti studs). The brake spring pins didn't line up with any of their holes, so I slotted the center one with the Dremel & cut-off disc, then used yellow Testor's enamel where the Mg alloy was bare. My BB threads seemed very good; not too tight or loose. I'm using a flangeless MRC Ti BB in it that's got 68mm cup spacing... Looks like it won't be a problem, as the chainrings & crank arms are right where they should be.


I just got my SRAM build kit from pricepoint and started building up my Litech frame tonight. I am suffering the same problems with the brake posts and spring pin holes. Could you post a photo of your workaround? I am a little loathe to start hacking at my frame without a clear notion of what to do.

Cheers


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## mpap89 (Mar 10, 2005)

i heard i think on this forum that someones brake posts weren't straight so then sent it back to the seller and got a new one.
-mpap


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

wycx said:


> ...I am suffering the same problems with the brake posts and spring pin holes. Could you post a photo of your workaround? I am a little loathe to start hacking at my frame without a clear notion of what to do.
> 
> Cheers


Easy hack... I used a Dremel with a fiber reinforced cut-off wheel. Take your time & cut it straight. Wear goggles if using a Dremel After checking the pin fit, I used Testor's yellow enamel to touch up the bare metal. The pin holes were only off about .040", but I figured it better to slot the center hole, rather than drill out bigger. Drilling would have worked as well on mine.


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

The Other Guy, Are those the nashbar jail brakes I was telling you about? If so, good choice, I've been looking around and they're lighter than XTR and Cane Creek brakes, and only 10 bucks a pop........good deal.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

spudy said:


> The Other Guy, Are those the nashbar jail brakes...?


No, I'm a sucker & got some Avid SD Ti brakes, and SRAM 9.0 levers. The Nashbar brakes are a better deal.


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

Hey, when you installed your bottom bracket, did you have these problems? It gets really hard to screw in about 3mm into it, and its a little off center, goes towards the front of the bike on the other side.


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

spudy said:


> Hey, when you installed your bottom bracket, did you have these problems?...


I guess I got lucky... Threads on mine were OK, with a little dirt/metal shavings, or whatever. I first wiped 'em out well, then used a small brass wire brush to clean 'em better, then wiped again with a rag. A couple of attempts screwing the mounting rings in & out, and they went smoothly. After checking my crank centering & general fit, I finally torqued the mounting rings into place using regular anti-sieze on the threads. I think with the specified torque of around 50 ft. pounds, they won't go anywhere, so no loc-tite for now.

You _may_ want to run BB thread taps through yours, and face the shell side(s). I think as long as all metal parts are well greased or otherwise coated, you shouldn't have to worry 'bout corrosion.


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

Thank you, I found out that there was some paint in the threads from when they painted my frame. Once I got past that it was smooth sailing. My bike is completely finished, Just in time for the 24 hour mountain bike race I did yesterday. I'll have pics up tommorow of the finished job. Overall while riding it, it was a very pleasing ride. I'll defintely have to buy a brake booster because the stays get VERY flexy. And find some plasic covers for all of the little holes in the frame, but the bike held up very well, and performed awesome!


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## TheOtherGuy (Jul 1, 2005)

spudy said:


> ...My bike is completely finished, Just in time for the 24 hour mountain bike race I did yesterday. I'll have pics up tommorow of the finished job....


Very cool... I wanna see the pics!


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

Sorry no pics yet. My digital camera after being 3 years old decided to finally die on me today. I'll have pictures as soon as I can.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

*Finally got some rides on mine*

Built up with mostly old parts, bathroom scale said 22 lbs was hoping for 20.

I know a lot of people are say the rear seat stay flex under braking but on a scale of 1 to 5 (1 being flexy and 5 being stiff) I'd rate it a 4. Overall the rear triangle feels fairly stiff. The BB is a 3.5 but the headtube i'd rate a 1.5, its about as flexy as a flexy Ti frame.

Magic ratio was 32:18


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## spudy (Jul 22, 2005)

Pictures, Finally
Enjoi!~
Mountain Bike  
Mountain Bike 2 
Mountain Bike 3


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## PCC (Sep 5, 2005)

I sent the guy an email asking if he would sell a frame to me without the use of eBay, thus saving him the fees. His reply: $140 + $30 shipping. I guess I'll take my chances with the bidding wars.


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## DLd (Feb 15, 2005)

*Ett*

Heya, could anyone with a 19" built up measure the effective top tube length, horizontal from center of top of the HT to center of seatpost.

Guy with the singlespeed build: How's that working out for you? Any flex? Doesn't look like you're running a chain tensioner, did you just get lucky in your gearing and chain length?

thanks
d


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

DLd said:


> ...Guy with the singlespeed build: How's that working out for you? Any flex? Doesn't look like you're running a chain tensioner, did you just get lucky in your gearing and chain length?
> 
> thanks
> d


Really liking the bike, it so lite compared to my Xc Fs rig i feel like i am losing some fitness.

The flex isn't bad, i think its stiffer than a Supergo aluminium Access frame with the S-bend rear and a more comfortable ride to boot. Where i notice flex is when i am on a steep hill spinning 10 rpms and cranking on the barends so hard my triceps start to burn. Not so much in the BB but the head tube is twisting back and forth probably due to the highly ovalized tubing.

Some luck was involved with the chain length. Was using a tensioner with a 32:16 but the chain was slipping over the cog on the really steep stuff and i couldn't get a KMC half link to work on a Sram chain. So I tried to fit a 20t cog on but no go and happenned to have 18t that worked. Checking with the chain length calulator in the SS Faq on this board the 32:18 and 32:22 is supposed to work and the 32:16, 32:20 will work with a half link. It's not a Blingspeed but i like it.


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## DEADBEEF (May 25, 2005)

Thought I would resurrect this thread to let people know that these frames are still available on ebay, just under a different seller name, "crazydougman". I recently picked one up and finished my build today. 










DB


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## BadHabit (Jan 12, 2004)

DEADBEEF said:


> Thought I would resurrect this thread to let people know that these frames are still available on ebay, just under a different seller name, "crazydougman". I recently picked one up and finished my build today.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks great! Looks like maybe 21 pounds. Enjoy.


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## Rufudufus (Apr 27, 2004)

Very nice, I built one of these up a year ago. Is that Duke on the front?


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## DEADBEEF (May 25, 2005)

Rufudufus said:


> Very nice, I built one of these up a year ago. Is that Duke on the front?


Nope. SID race. in case anyone cares, here are the specs:

Litech 17"
04 SID race
Avid arch50 brakes
Avid sd ti levers
XT shifters
xt front der.
xtr rear der.
xtr hubs
mavic x517 front rim
sun rhyno lite rear rim (for now)
mythos xc tires
easton carbon monkeylite riser bar
thomson stem
thomson post
salsa seatpost clamp
cane creek s2 headset
sram hollow pin chain
xt cranks with integrated bb
odi grips
irc torqe tubes
Terry fly saddle

DB


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