# Shimano Mineral Oil alternatives?



## Mattlikestobike (Nov 1, 2010)

Hi all,

I just came back from the LBS dissapointed because they do not have shimano Mineral Oil, since i need to bleed my hydrolic shimano deore lx brakes. The guy that i asked said i can use baby mineral oil from walgreens or CVS... 

does this really hold up to be true? I was alittle skeptical because I would think Bike mineral oil would have slightly different compounds to work with the gaskets, seals, and overall, be a much nicer fluid without air bubbles, compared to mineral oil, that is applied on a baby.. 

Thanks 
-Matt


----------



## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

Not sure about that. I am a bit anal when it comes to that. I only used Shimano mineral. Learnt the hard way that the LBS does not always have it, so got them to order some for me to keep as spare at home. Solved the problem for the future.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Even ignoring differences in quality, I would not recommend it because that stuff is a much different viscosity and the brake will not perform properly.


----------



## mtbnozpikr (Sep 1, 2008)

Mattlikestobike said:


> I just came back from the LBS dissapointed because they do not have shimano Mineral Oil, since i need to bleed my hydrolic shimano deore lx brakes. The guy that i asked said i can use baby mineral oil from walgreens or CVS...


Mineral oil is mineral oil but not everything you mentioned is pure mineral oil. Brake fluid has additives in it to protect the seals and do other things just as you mentioned and the Shimano blend is probably different than the Magura blend. Baby oil has a lower viscosity and has fragrances in it for obvious reasons. You can get just about 100% pure mineral oil at Walmart or probably any other pharmacy. It the viscosity is relatively high but it doesn't have anything else in it like Shimano or Magura would put in for seal longevity. It is used as a laxative. I have used it to lubricate sticky pistons. I agree with everyone else here: if you are going to bleed your brakes, your best bet is to stick with the stuff made for the particular application.


----------



## jeffgre_6163 (Jan 23, 2010)

Take or leave these comments as you will.
You need to make your own descisions based on what you decide.

However, based on advice I received years ago I have been running 2.5 wt mineral based fork oil in my Shimano brakes for years with no dramas what so ever.

Reasoning being the fork oil, as opposed to std mineral engine oil, has additives designed for contact with seals etc and is not engineered to work at high temps.
I do know of a couple of guys who run std sewing machine oil or 3 in 1 handy man oil.
I make no comment on these options other than to say that if thats all I had lying around and it was race eve and I was stuck I would use it in a blink.

Shimano charges around $15.00 for a 250ml bottle for their "Special" brake oil.
Quality mineral engine oils can be had for $40.00 for 5 lts

Shimano = $60.00 per liter
Engine oil = $8.00 per liter

Once again Shimano is laughing all the way to the bank at riders expense.
There is no possible way they can justify that mark up.


----------



## Mattlikestobike (Nov 1, 2010)

Jeffgre, you make a very good point.. I just came back from another LBS, and just bought the shimano mineral oil.. dang. a 2oz bottle is like $24 in my area! i was stunned.. in shear embarrassment, i just paid for it. 

I think i will just pay up the price of shimano mineral oil. seems like it is the best method.. and having mineral oil fail while biking might cost more than just the shimano mineral oil replacement. 

Thanks guys!


----------



## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

You might want to buy your refills by the liter...http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Fluid-1-Liter/dp/B001E4MH84/ref=pd_sim_sg5


----------



## captainjoon (Aug 11, 2009)

^ +1

I bought that same litre, and it will last you a lifetime.


----------



## savagemann (Jan 14, 2008)

Just to throw this out there, I believe you will void your warranty if you use anything other than Shimano Oil in Shimano Brakes.
Something to keep in mind.
BTW, I wouldn't put baby oil in my brakes.


----------



## 1niceride (Jan 30, 2004)

Pentosin CHF 7.1 works for me. Using it in my 3 sets of brakes for years now.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Are you sure you need more oil?

Mine got some air trapped in them and needed a bleed, but I'll I did was carefully pull the cap off, slowly work the lever and force the air out. Once you stop getting air bubbles, your good to go.


----------



## Mattlikestobike (Nov 1, 2010)

Awesome, going to order that liter of mineral oil soon.. Does the fluid expire by a certain point?

Yes, i am sure i need more oil.. Brake felt very spongy, and anyways, its been about 4-6months.


----------



## captainjoon (Aug 11, 2009)

Shouldn't expire as far as I know.

Make sure the calipers are 45 degree to 90 degree in position with the hose and nipple side up when you bleed to ensure proper bleeding. If it's near horizontal or - degrees in angle, you'll never get all the air out of the calipers.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Mattlikestobike said:


> Awesome, going to order that liter of mineral oil soon.. Does the fluid expire by a certain point?
> 
> Yes, i am sure i need more oil.. Brake felt very spongy, and anyways, its been about 4-6months.


On my last bike I had XTs on it and never changed the fluid in 6 years and they were fine.


----------



## Mattlikestobike (Nov 1, 2010)

TwoTone said:


> On my last bike I had XTs on it and never changed the fluid in 6 years and they were fine.


wow! my LBS said to replace the oil every 4-6months. I did the bleed myself, because the LBS was charging $50 on 1 caliper/lever... $100 total before tax.. :eekster:

i really dont understand why the LBS is charging that much, for such a simple job..


----------



## Mattlikestobike (Nov 1, 2010)

captainjoon said:


> Shouldn't expire as far as I know.
> 
> Make sure the calipers are 45 degree to 90 degree in position with the hose and nipple side up when you bleed to ensure proper bleeding. If it's near horizontal or - degrees in angle, you'll never get all the air out of the calipers.


Sweet thanks!

uh oh.... i didnt rebleed with the hose angled really.. id say i angled the cable about 30ish degrees :eekster:

what would happen if there really is air in the line? At the moment, the brake power is alot stronger than before, and feels a long more responsive. How can i telll there is air in the line? thanks


----------



## mtbnozpikr (Sep 1, 2008)

Mattlikestobike said:


> what would happen if there really is air in the line? At the moment, the brake power is alot stronger than before, and feels a long more responsive. How can i telll there is air in the line?


There are a lot of places for air to hide in the lines. Usually the best way to tell if there is air in the lines is if your brakes feel mushy or spongy. When you squeeze the lever the oil is displaced from the master cylinder and pushes the pistons in the caliper. Oil is for all intents and purposes incompressible which would give you a solid feel at the lever. Air contrarily is very compressible, therefore if you have air in your line your lever will feel mushy.


----------



## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Well... you can.... I guess*



Mattlikestobike said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I just came back from the LBS dissapointed because they do not have shimano Mineral Oil, since i need to bleed my hydrolic shimano deore lx brakes. The guy that i asked said i can use baby mineral oil from walgreens or CVS...
> 
> ...


I heard of folks doing it wtih okay results. I personally would not run it that way unless my brakes needed work the night before a race, all the shops were closed and I had no otehr choice. Shimano puts seal conditioners in their mineral oil, as well as specing their brakes for a specific viscosity.

Shimano brakes are so common, I'm surprised your LBS doesn't stock the fluid. I say pick up the phone and call around. Some shop has to have it. Also, FInish Line sells brake mineral oil too.... probably comes out of the same 55 gallong drums.

I say don't be cheap and hold out for the right stuff. If you start having sticky pistons or sluggish lever issues down the road, at least you can't blame the wrong fluid.


----------



## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*$24...*



jeffgre_6163 said:


> Take or leave these comments as you will.
> You need to make your own descisions based on what you decide.
> 
> However, based on advice I received years ago I have been running 2.5 wt mineral based fork oil in my Shimano brakes for years with no dramas what so ever.
> ...


... a liter here:

Amazon.com: Shimano Brake Fluid 1-Liter: Sports & Outdoors










*edit* Wups... $8 shipping. Still.....

and a liter is a lifetime supply.

I have two sets of shimano brakes, changed hoses a few times when I was having issues. had them apart for various reasons. I've been using basically 5 or 6 of those tiny bottles that came with my brake sets, and I have yet to need to restock.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Mattlikestobike said:


> wow! my LBS said to replace the oil every 4-6months. I did the bleed myself, because the LBS was charging $50 on 1 caliper/lever... $100 total before tax.. :eekster:
> 
> i really dont understand why the LBS is charging that much, for such a simple job..


No way I'd open up my brakes that often to flush it. Every time you open the system, you take a chance of introducing some contamination. If the lever feels good I leave it alone.

It's mineral oil, not DOT brake fluid. My current bike is a 09, never flushed it either and it working fine.


----------



## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Um... shot in the dark here....*



Mattlikestobike said:


> wow! my LBS said to replace the oil every 4-6months. I did the bleed myself, because the LBS was charging $50 on 1 caliper/lever... $100 total before tax.. :eekster:
> 
> i really dont understand why the LBS is charging that much, for such a simple job..


----------



## Mattlikestobike (Nov 1, 2010)

Awesome, thanks guys.. I can't really tell the difference between spongy vs a good flush.. I might go to the LBS and see what the guy thinks, since i chat up with him commonly.

As for the liter of shimano, ill be buying that soon.


----------



## Mattlikestobike (Nov 1, 2010)

TwoTone said:


> No way I'd open up my brakes that often to flush it. Every time you open the system, you take a chance of introducing some contamination. If the lever feels good I leave it alone.
> 
> It's mineral oil, not DOT brake fluid. My current bike is a 09, never flushed it either and it working fine.


Wow, really? :eekster:

I would think you want to replace the brake fluid often, as much as the guy at the LBS said "4-6 months", because riding in such dusty enviroments, in my mind, would reduce performance of the oil, and cause tears in gaskets/o-rings.... but this is coming from a 1/8 buggy rc racer, this makes the most sense to me.


----------



## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

I'm with the group that thinks 4-6 months is excessive.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Mattlikestobike said:


> Wow, really? :eekster:
> 
> I would think you want to replace the brake fluid often, as much as the guy at the LBS said "4-6 months", because riding in such dusty enviroments, in my mind, would reduce performance of the oil, and cause tears in gaskets/o-rings.... but this is coming from a 1/8 buggy rc racer, this makes the most sense to me.


If you're getting dust into a sealed hydraulic brakes system, you've got other problems that a flush wont fix.

Think about, even cars, which DOT fluid is hygroscopic only recommend flushes every 2 years. Nothing about a mountain bike hydraulic system with mineral oil says to me it ever needs to be flushed unless you have problems.


----------



## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

Aircraft hydraulic & brake fluid. It's very likely the same stuff that's in the Shimano bottles, and it's actually designed for use in brake & hydraulic systems. $8.25 a quart plus a few bucks in shipping to get it to your door.

MIL-PRF-5606H BRAKE FLUID from Aircraft Spruce


----------



## KVW (Aug 11, 2011)

In cars, you need to occasionally replace the brake oil and such because of condensation and water migration. Eventually your fluid becomes watered down per se. I suppose this wouldn't be much of an issue unless your bike sat outside all year long. 

When I got in to wrenching Mustangs, I used to ask some of the more knowledgeable buddies, when should i clean and re-oil my K&N air filter? Like after how many miles... They would respond with "clean it when it's dirty". And end it like that - on purpose. The clue they wanted me to get of course was to not clean it unnecessarily, use common sense and do it when it's obvious. In this case, I would imagine, rather than just blindly replacing it every 4-6mo cuz the shop said to, replace it when it needs it (feels mushy). Who knows, maybe you'll get 6 years of it too. lol


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

KVW said:


> In cars, you need to occasionally replace the brake oil and such because of condensation and water migration. Eventually your fluid becomes watered down per se. I suppose this wouldn't be much of an issue unless your bike sat outside all year long.
> 
> When I got in to wrenching Mustangs, I used to ask some of the more knowledgeable buddies, when should i clean and re-oil my K&N air filter? Like after how many miles... They would respond with "clean it when it's dirty". And end it like that - on purpose. The clue they wanted me to get of course was to not clean it unnecessarily, use common sense and do it when it's obvious. In this case, I would imagine, rather than just blindly replacing it every 4-6mo cuz the shop said to, replace it when it needs it (feels mushy). Who knows, maybe you'll get 6 years of it too. lol


That's why I'm being specific about Shimano brakes and why I like them. Some of the other brands use DOT fluid which is hygroscopic- absorbs water out of the air, which would probably need flushing every once in a while.


----------



## mtbnozpikr (Sep 1, 2008)

TwoTone said:


> That's why I'm being specific about Shimano brakes and why I like them. Some of the other brands use DOT fluid which is hygroscopic- absorbs water out of the air, which would probably need flushing every once in a while.


Exactly, mineral oil does not absorb water like DOT fluid does.


----------



## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

Mineral oil doesn't absorb water but it still needs to be changed every once in a while. After enough time in the brake system, the anti-wear and anti-corrosion additives will deplete and the mineral oil will start to oxidize and break down from repeated exposure to high temperatures. 

How long this takes depends on how much & how hard you ride your bike, I've gone up to 4 years between changes but I've also gone down to less than a year. If your brakes are getting hot enough to start fading on every ride and you're going through brakes pads like candy you'll want to replace the fluid every year at the minimum. If it takes you 3 years to wear out a set of pads you can get away with replacing the fluid every 3-5 years.


----------



## mtbnozpikr (Sep 1, 2008)

aerius said:


> Mineral oil doesn't absorb water but it still needs to be changed every once in a while. After enough time in the brake system, the anti-wear and anti-corrosion additives will deplete and the mineral oil will start to oxidize and break down from repeated exposure to high temperatures.


Good point and very true.


----------



## egebhardt (Nov 16, 2004)

Shimano wants 25 bux for a liter of mineral oil?
I just used some mineral oil from CVS pharmacy.
8 bux for a liter.
I don't need a pink tint to my mineral oil.
Also, Mineral Oil from CVS is thicker, so my brakes feel a hair sluggish as a result.


----------



## markf (Jan 17, 2007)

shimano recommends against using anything but their mineral oil as it's specifically made for their brakes. I've seen magura fluid wreck seals in shimano brakes and vice versa. sure using generic mineral oil will probably work on a technical level but it won't be good for anything and will degrade performance, especially in heat handling. as infrequently as you should need to change the fluid in your brakes, it's not that big of an expense. even if you somehow manage to need frequent bleeds, you only need a tiny bit of oil to do that, not a full fluid change.


----------



## ehigh (Apr 19, 2011)

*mixing*

Does anyone know about mixing finish line mineral oil with shimano mineral oil?

Is it okay to use at all in my XTR brakes, or am I being a paranoiac?


----------



## DEA316 (Nov 5, 2012)

I'm new to the mtb scene..Riding and working on dirt bikes for years.We ride KTM's they use a hydraulic clutch. and yes KTM recomends the magura juice. I've used atf(automatic trans. fluid)and motorcycle fork oil(7 wt or 10wt)for years along with 1,0000's of other KTM owners. so i will probabls go this route when i flush/change my fluids


----------



## CCRider65 (Aug 15, 2009)

Magura Blood 16 oz....$17 at Jenson ships for $6


----------



## egebhardt (Nov 16, 2004)

I just used some Belray 5wt fork oil. It's a light green. These are some new BR-9000 XTR Race brakes. The 5wt seems to be about the same as the Shimano pink stuff as far as rubbing it between my fingers. The brake lever feels the same as before.


----------



## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

egebhardt said:


> I just used some Belray 5wt fork oil. It's a light green. These are some new BR-9000 XTR Race brakes. The 5wt seems to be about the same as the Shimano pink stuff as far as rubbing it between my fingers. The brake lever feels the same as before.


Petroleum product may affect the seals. Keep us apprised.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

egebhardt said:


> I just used some Belray 5wt fork oil. It's a light green. These are some new BR-9000 XTR Race brakes. The 5wt seems to be about the same as the Shimano pink stuff as far as rubbing it between my fingers. The brake lever feels the same as before.





eb1888 said:


> Petroleum product may affect the seals. Keep us apprised.


This- I've never understood cheaping out on something as important as brakes. Hopefully the seals don't fail when you need them the most.


----------



## Shakester (Jun 26, 2012)

I've been using Bleed Bicycles oil for a long time and never had a problem with it. Works great. Been using their brake pads as well with no problems.

Brake Fluids - Bleed Bicycles, LLC


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Shakester said:


> I've been using Bleed Bicycles oil for a long time and never had a problem with it. Works great. Been using their brake pads as well with no problems.
> 
> Brake Fluids - Bleed Bicycles, LLC


So you're using genuine Shimano Mineral Oil


----------



## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I bought a bulk jug of Shimano mineral oil. Cost per bleed is pretty low. I know there won't be problems with the fluid and the seals. Not sure why some insist on using something else and risk screwing up their brakes with an incompatible fluid?


----------



## idividebyzero (Sep 25, 2014)

egebhardt said:


> I just used some Belray 5wt fork oil. It's a light green. These are some new BR-9000 XTR Race brakes. The 5wt seems to be about the same as the Shimano pink stuff as far as rubbing it between my fingers. The brake lever feels the same as before.


rip


----------



## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

If I had to do it today, and couldn't get shimano I'd go to the auto store and get finish line or catsol. But as pointed out cheap on amazon.


----------



## brakegarage (Dec 9, 2016)

The manufacturers such as Shimano of course recommend using their own oils / fluids. But the main thing is to use the right kind, meaning if your system runs on mineral oil, don't use DOT fluid and the other way around. That'll mess up the seals (like mentioned before). Here's some differences between the fluids listed if you're interested.

Brake fluids


----------



## LeDelmo (Aug 3, 2016)

I am new to bikes so you would want to look into this. But allot of KTM Dirt bike riders actually use just pure baby oil that you can get at your local Walmart. As KTM clutches require this ridiculously expensive mineral oil.

Its super cheap and you will get enough to last you years. 

Anyways just something to look into.


----------



## RHEL (Dec 7, 2006)

I didn't even think they made hydraulic brakes when this thread was started. ;-)


----------



## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

RHEL said:


> I didn't even think they made hydraulic brakes when this thread was started. ;-)


I got a liter back when they were just starting to add sound to black and white movies. Still going strong. Take that, DOT fluid!


----------



## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

noapathy said:


> I got a liter back when they were just starting to add sound to black and white movies. Still going strong. Take that, DOT fluid!


boom!


----------



## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

- Pentosin Hydraulic Mineral Oil - Save Money & Gain Performance - - Pinkbike Forum


----------



## big_papa_nuts (Mar 29, 2010)

"mineral oil is an unfortunate term to use because it is so vague and generic. The term mineral oil can describe a lot of different compounds. It's kind of like the term salt, which refers to much more than just table salt. Most of us are probably aware that the mineral oil that you buy at the drug store is not the same as the mineral oil we use in brakes, but that extends to different brands of mineral oil brake fluid as well. We should really call it "proprietary brake fluid" but I guess that doesn't have the same ring to it. I can tell you with absolute certainty that Magura fluid will destroy Shimano brakes in a very short amount of time. I've seen it happen several times. The rubber seals in the system have to be specifically designed to interact with a specific brake fluid. If you use a different fluid, the seals will interact differently. Specifically, when you put Magura fluid in Shimano brake, the lever feels spongy and the pad contact point changes because the square edge seal at the caliper is breaking free from the piston at a different time.

There are third party companies that make mineral oil brake fluid and it says right on the bottle that it is compatible with all mineral brakes. Shimano has never approved a third party brake fluid to be compatible with our brakes and we never will. How is it possible that one fluid can work in both Magura and Shimano brakes if Magura fluid destroys Shimano brakes?"

https://www.bikerumor.com/2013/04/1...-down-and-implications-for-road-disc-updated/


----------



## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

A buddy of mine told me that his friend went to the local McDonalds and gave the manager $20 for 10 gallons of used cooking oil from the French fryers. Claims he is set for life now for brake bleeds.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bigjunk1 (Sep 17, 2016)

I have not did a full bleed with regular mineral oil but I have added to existing fluid with the dollar a bottle pharmacy mineral oil while changing calipers or levers. Works fine with no issues for years.
Regular mineral oil works fine for me but Shimano would likely say otherwise. Buy the expensive stuff if it bothers you, use regular mineral if your cheap like me or in a pinch.


----------



## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

The stuff from the pharmacy is completely different than what's used in brakes. Suspension/brake mineral oil for motorcycles/cars is fine but the supplement from the pharmacy is not a good idea. 

Don't need to pay Shimano prices unless your buying a big bottle which then price isn't bad at all. I use finish line stuff, no issues for 3 years now.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bigjunk1 (Sep 17, 2016)

RAKC Ind said:


> The stuff from the pharmacy is completely different than what's used in brakes. Suspension/brake mineral oil for motorcycles/cars is fine but the supplement from the pharmacy is not a good idea.
> 
> Don't need to pay Shimano prices unless your buying a big bottle which then price isn't bad at all. I use finish line stuff, no issues for 3 years now.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


Although pharmacy grade and brake grade mineral oil likely have some differences (red coloring, weight?) they are both the same type oil. I am pretty sure there are 3 types of mineral oil and the pharmacy oil is of the same type as that used in brakes. I am no expert but I do know that Shimano brakes work fine with pharmacy type mineral oil because I have used it, so mechanically it is OK to use. I would assume that unless a mineral oil had an additive that damaged the internals of the brakes that there is no real problem using it or chance of damaging anything. Pharmacy grade oil is safe to eat and lasts forever and is 99.9% mineral oil so not much room for anything harmful. All the mineral oil really needs to do is hold pressure, not leak and not corrode. 
If someone has real scientific reasoning why pharmacy grade mineral oil is unsafe I would be curious to know. As I said, my brakes have had a mix of regular mineral oil and brake mineral oil for a few years now and never a problem.


----------



## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Iirc the only real "issue" is for those that get their brakes seriously hot. Either works fine under most circumstances but if your one that pushes your brakes hard then you could notice issues.

Difference is in additives. The additives are "supposed" to stabilize the mineral oil at extreme temps

How much of that is actually true for Shimano or other MTB fluid, I have no idea. I just stick with what's meant for the purpose till, like you, someone shows proof one way or the other.

No matter whether you go bike specific mineral oil or pharmacy stuff it's still always going to be better than using any brakes that use DOT fluid.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


----------



## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

So let me get this straight...

We're all spending anywhere from several hundred to several thousand dollars on our bikes...and we're getting bent out of shape about spending a few extra bucks for the fluid that's made to work in our brakes?


----------



## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Welcome to cycling. 

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Mineral oil intended for machinery or brake systems is more commonly referred to as ‘Hydraulic Mineral Oil’ has a multitude of additives. Most commonly, they contain anti-foaming agents to reduce foaming under high heat applications, corrosion inhibitors, and anti-wear agents. This mineral oil is has a lower viscosity than drug store mineral oil. 

‘Drug Store' Mineral Oil, is somewhat thicker and heavier than hydraulic mineral oil. And, the stuff we use as humans is used as a laxative, usually contains perfume and consumable additives along with shelf life stabilizers.


----------



## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Just what I need...laxative in my brake lines.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Harold said:


> So let me get this straight...
> 
> We're all spending anywhere from several hundred to several thousand dollars on our bikes...and we're getting bent out of shape about spending a few extra bucks for the fluid that's made to work in our brakes?


That's what always amazes me. Reminds me of the frame protection thread, where people were saying $80-100 for a precut 3m kit was too much, yet it's for a carbon frame that's at least $2500.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

It is pretty interesting that we spend whatever we elect to spend on bikes ($1000 - $10,000) and some find the space to whimper about spending $20 (or less) on a liter of Shimano Brake Fluid that should last the average Joe many years of service and bleeds. Damn, this stuff doesn't even have a opened container shelf life like DOT fluid does. WTF?


----------



## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

It's not just cycling. It's what things are being made more cheaply. They want to look cool but don't want to pay for it.

Biggest issue is that people are stuck with the mind set that if a product costs $100 then the company paid $10 for it. Which is so far from the truth. But no one cares.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


----------



## big_papa_nuts (Mar 29, 2010)

Harold said:


> So let me get this straight...
> 
> We're all spending anywhere from several hundred to several thousand dollars on our bikes...and we're getting bent out of shape about spending a few extra bucks for the fluid that's made to work in our brakes?


Seriously, you're going to risk ruining a set of brakes and putting your safety at risk to save what, ten bucks a year. If that.

Hell, I'd pay ten bucks a ride if it would insure I wouldn't have to cut it short due to a mechanical.


----------



## root (Jan 24, 2006)

Harold said:


> Just what I need...laxative in my brake lines.


It'll make you go faster.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Hmmm...


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

so, what's the best alternative?? Liqui Molly, Castrol, Motul, ...............................


----------



## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I will just stick to Shimano oil. Not worth the risk and the stuff is not that expensive!


----------



## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Just buy the proper fluid. Unless your dealing with 50 bikes there is no reason to test and be cheap. Hell even finish line has a bottle that's last my 5 yrs across to bikes.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Its not about cheap . Im sure there are even better oils by quality..


----------



## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

It's mineral oil, you can buy "the best there is" and all your going to end up with is slightly thicker or thinner oil. 

Since most are design around use in conditions far different than what bicycles see the additives and such can effect performance.

Seeing as people have ridden several years using Shimano fluid and the fluid has never been cause for concern not has it caused any failures there isn't any real reason to try and find "better".

That said I'm trying to remember which brand mineral oil is what finish line uses (it's green) but I remember it being the same as one of the top mineral oil brands. I only have it because when I bought it I needed it NOW and that's all that I could get my hands on. Only to do some digging and find that it's the same as one of the high end brands of mineral oil.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

ka81ua said:


> Its not about cheap . Im sure there are even better oils by quality..


Over 10 year old 4 pot XT brakes that have never been bled and still work as well as they did when I put them on.

How much better does it need to be?


----------



## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

TwoTone said:


> Over 10 year old 4 pot XT brakes that have never been bled and still work as well as they did when I put them on. How much better does it need to be?


This ^

Shimano make arguably the most reliable brakes on the planet and you think you can improve them? How?


----------



## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

TwoTone said:


> Over 10 year old 4 pot XT brakes that have never been bled and still work as well as they did when I put them on.
> 
> How much better does it need to be?


Why I stick with Shimano brakes. Reliable as hell (except m8000s when they first came out), don't use DOT fluid which is not something I want anywhere near my bike. Being a Auto tech most of my life you learn how nasty that crap truly is. It makes sense for motorized vehicle use due to conditions it has to deal with but just stupid on bicycles because our brakes will NEVER experience anything of what vehicles will with the exception of extreme cold.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

ka81ua said:


> Its not about cheap . Im sure there are even better oils by quality..


You're looking for something better than the OEM fluid?

You trolling?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

nope..
you think "shimano mineral oil" IS shimano manufatured?..
anyway, there are different oils by quality.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^ Nope, I think everyone here recognizes that Shimano is not in the lubrication business and that their re-branded lubricants are manufactured by someone else. However, I do believe that Shimano's brake fluid is spec'd to Shimano's specific standards. 

There have been many threads on MTBR and many other bike threads addressing this very subject and it has been long theorized that Shimano Brake Fluid is a derivative or exact MIL-Spec of a common mineral based aircraft hydraulic fluid commonly known as MIL-PRF-5606H. It smells, looks and feels the same. It's intended to be compatible with synthetic rubber seals. 

So while this has never been completely validated, if you think that you'll find a higher quality than a military specified standard for a brake fluid, keep looking.


----------



## shwndh (Nov 20, 2004)

Bunch of whusses. I used mineral oil from CVS in my Shimano brakes for lie 4 years with no problems. It works just as well as big business name scare tactics.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

shwndh said:


> Bunch of whusses. I used mineral oil from CVS in my Shimano brakes for lie 4 years with no problems. It works just as well *as big business name scare tactics.*


Wear tin foil for a helmet?


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

*Reporting For Duty...*


----------



## shwndh (Nov 20, 2004)

The proof is in the experience. I bought the bike in 2011 and the brakes wee not firm enough from new. The bike shop wouldn't do anything about it so I got mineral oil and bled hem myself. I was going to replace with XTs anyway but they kept on working well from hen on. Now it's 2017 and those brakes are still rock solid with no leaks. 

Also, I used Maxima anti foaming 10wt oil in my Fox Float for years with no problems as well.

You can do what you want but the fact of the matter is, some things are not as complicated as they're presented to be. These companies want you to believe the have some magic unicorn oil but it's just rebranded oil and there are variances to what mixtures can be used in particular applications. If you're scared, go with OEM, if you want to try something different, do your homework and try something different. They do the same thing.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

My take on Shimano Brake fluid is one of convenience. It's about $20 a liter and locally available. Additionally, unlike DOT brake fluid, it doesn't absorb moisture and does not have a shelf life once opened. For me, a liter will last about five years. $20 over five years is a bargain.

For those who live in other countries where gaining access to Shimano branded mineral oils is difficult or expensive, then that's a clear justification for finding alternatives. And, alternatives can be found. 

I have been running XT brakes for about ten years and have never once had to bleed my brakes because of a compromise of failed seals or air entrainment. All of my bleeds have really not been bleeds to remove air per say, but rather a regular purging of old brake fluid with fresh fluids.


----------



## shwndh (Nov 20, 2004)

TwoTone said:


> Wear tin foil for a helmet?


I use a Bell helmet from Walmart.


----------



## rlouder (Jun 26, 2007)

Cleared2land said:


> My take on Shimano Brake fluid is one of convenience. It's about $20 a liter and locally available. Additionally, unlike DOT brake fluid, it doesn't absorb moisture and does not have a shelf life once opened. For me, a liter will last about five years. $20 over five years is a bargain.
> 
> For those who live in other countries where gaining access to Shimano branded mineral oils is difficult or expensive, then that's a clear justification for finding alternatives. And, alternatives can be found.
> 
> I have been running XT brakes for about ten years and have never once had to bleed my brakes because of a compromise of failed seals or air entrainment. All of my bleeds have really not been bleeds to remove air per say, but rather a regular purging of old brake fluid with fresh fluids.


This ^^^^

Still have more than half a bottle that I bought nine years ago. Plus, I likely used more of it servicing my freehubs than in the brakes.


----------



## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

shwndh said:


> I use a Bell helmet from Walmart.


You didn't have to respond to that, but you took the bait. It makes you sound even more defensive and paranoid. Your response to my post will confirm this.


----------



## shwndh (Nov 20, 2004)

mack_turtle said:


> You didn't have to respond to that, but you took the bait. It makes you sound even more defensive and paranoid. Your response to my post will confirm this.


Hold up just a sec. My response to this post is to set YOU straight. The title of this post is "Shimano Mineral Oil alternatives?" I share my experience with cheap stuff that has been working fine for almost 6 years. I get tagged with an insult, and I'm the one that's defensive and paranoid? You guys are scaring everyone from buying anything but Shimano's oil with no proof of damage that has been done, but I'm the one that's paranoid. If that's your reasoning, fine, label me as a [email protected], but I sure ain't paranoid about using non-Shimano mineral oil in my brakes or using my [email protected] Walmart helmet. Bunch of whusses. Big name bike companies love you.


----------



## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

shwndh said:


> The proof is in the experience. I bought the bike in 2011 and the brakes wee not firm enough from new. The bike shop wouldn't do anything about it so I got mineral oil and bled hem myself. I was going to replace with XTs anyway but they kept on working well from hen on. Now it's 2017 and those brakes are still rock solid with no leaks.
> 
> Also, I used Maxima anti foaming 10wt oil in my Fox Float for years with no problems as well.
> 
> You can do what you want but the fact of the matter is, some things are not as complicated as they're presented to be. These companies want you to believe the have some magic unicorn oil but it's just rebranded oil and there are variances to what mixtures can be used in particular applications. If you're scared, go with OEM, if you want to try something different, do your homework and try something different. They do the same thing.


Actually your final sentence is 100% wrong.

First thing is there is nothing wrong with not using specifically branded lubricant or fluid that matches what you have. But you saved a little money by using a different fluid vs Fox fluid. It won't perform the exact same but doesn't mean it isn't perfectly fine to use. I use that brand of oil as well. Works good in a damper but their fluid for fork lowers isn't good at dealing with stiction at all.

Yes Shimano oil is rebranded.

Yes it's base is mineral oil.

No they do not do the same thing.

IIRC your system wasn't completely full of base mineral oil, just used to top off over Shimano fluid?

Pharmacy mineral oil is very basic, 0 additives. But FAR from the same thing.

-Different viscosity
-lack of additives for corrosion protection, temperature stabilization, seal conditioning and so on.

So you have had good luck, you ride in pretty consistant riding conditions. Those of us that actually have a winter, deal with highly corrosive environments and so on would have trashed our brakes by now or be cussing them out for not working right if we went your route. It's not the moderate temperature range performance, it's the protection and consistant performance across wildly different conditions that is required by most.

So before saying that we are falling in line due to scare tactics actually only proves you didn't do your homework. Otherwise you would understand the reason why additives are used. Your reasoning would also mean that pure water performs the same in cars as antifreeze mix. Or that any oil will work in an engine, power steering and transmissions.

Basic mineral oil has been OK for you but it just will cause failures for the majority of riders. There are alternatives but a 0 additive mineral oil isn't a good recommendation because it's not engineered for the purpose.

PS:. I don't have Shimano fluid ATM, use an alternative myself because it's what was available, and I did my homework and found that pharmacy stuff is a bad idea for where I live and ride.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


----------



## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

shwndh said:


> . Big name bike companies love you.


Thank you for proving my point. I am sure Shimano used $100 bills to light their cigars with all the cash they make from selling mineral oil to whussies like me. I spend a fortune on the stuff, especially since I bleed Shimano brakes once every... rarely.


----------



## shwndh (Nov 20, 2004)

RAKC Ind said:


> Actually your final sentence is 100% wrong.
> 
> First thing is there is nothing wrong with not using specifically branded lubricant or fluid that matches what you have. But you saved a little money by using a different fluid vs Fox fluid. It won't perform the exact same but doesn't mean it isn't perfectly fine to use. I use that brand of oil as well. Works good in a damper but their fluid for fork lowers isn't good at dealing with stiction at all.
> 
> ...


When I said "they do the same thing" I'm not saying the oils work the same way. I was trying to say that companies try different mixtures of oils before they brand their name on it for their products. The point is, you can use other oils besides what they prefer. There are better things to do besides a 0 additive mineral oil and if you do your homework, you can find them. You don't have to be locked in to one product. That was my point.

Next, do you have any first hand experiences with brake failures using 0 additive mineral oil? If so, please share that; we are aware of the theory.

Next, "do your homework" means, just what you did. You found that pharmacy mineral oil did not work for you (I assume) where you live so you used something else. I use it where I live and it works fine. Basically, you use what works for you. If it didn't work for me, i would have experimented with something else because I wanted to see what else would work.

I'm not advocating that people use exactly what I use, but it think its absurd to get shot down for suggesting other quality oils as some have mentioned earlier. Mine was an extreme case to show that you can use other stuff. That's what I meant.


----------



## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

I have better things to do with my time than find an alternative to something that costs me about $1 per decade and works great. :skep:

When Fox quit selling their green 10wt fluid I found an alternative for that (Fox Red 10wt). Whew, that was tough! (oh wait, no it wasn't...it's on their website)

Since I just remembered I saved a bunch of time, time to go ride instead of... :madman:


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

shwndh said:


> If you're scared, go with OEM, if you want to try something different, do your homework and try something different.





shwndh said:


> Bunch of whusses. Big name bike companies love you.





shwndh said:


> ... its absurd to *get shot down for suggesting other quality oils* as some have mentioned earlier.


Who suggested another QUALITY oil and got shot down for it?

Pentosin CHF 7.1 has been suggested and it's a commonly known, high quality replacement or alternative hydraulic mineral oil for Shimano brake fluid.

Drug store mineral oil that's considerably thicker than intended hydraulic mineral oil contains perfume and consumable additives along with shelf life stabilizers and is commonly recommended to be used as a laxative. I failed to a see perfumey laxitive as a QUALITY oil to be used on my brakes when the real thing is not expensive or difficult to acquire.

No one is scared about not buying Shimano brake fluid, it's just that considering the alternatives, their availability and cost compared to the recommended product isn't anything substantial.

It's your inability to understand the cost/value concept enough to want you try an unproven drug store alternative to save $5. Really?

And, in a wonderful demonstration of self, you reference those who use a recommended and known-quantity brake fluid as scared wusses.

Sometimes it's better to remain quiet, and thought a fool, than to open the mouth and remove all doubt.


----------



## big_papa_nuts (Mar 29, 2010)

Can someone explain to me why we are arguing against the use of something that works perfectly, is inexpensive, and radially available?


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

big_papa_nuts said:


> Can someone explain to me why we are arguing against the use of something that works perfectly, is inexpensive, and radially available?


Because spending a few hours to research and find alternatives that saves you a penny over 10 years and shafts the big corporation that uses scare tactics on us simpletons is so worth it..


----------



## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Classic thread status.

Useful info: I recently tried bleeding my SLX brakes with Finish Line brake fluid. This product is advertised as being compatible with Shimano brakes. I flushed all the old fluid out with this new oil and it seemed fine at first.

On the trail, though, both brakes felt squishy. I have bled Shimano brakes dozens of times and I feel confident that this was a good bleed. I bled again using a few dollars worth of Shimano oil and the brakes have been perfect ever since. Maybe another, cheaper alternative exists, but saving pennies is not worth the peace of mind. There are expensive, overpriced items in the bicycle market and brake fluid is not one of them.

Also relevant- I am super cheap, so cheap that I make my own tubeless sealant rather than buy Stan's. That's in a totally different category of product though.


----------



## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

TwoTone said:


> Because spending a few hours to research and find alternatives that saves you a penny over 10 years and shafts the big corporation that uses scare tactics on us simpletons is so worth it..


I don't think there is a single thing you've just said that I agree with. Shimano make high-quality brakes that are as reliable and easy to service as anything else on the market at any price. Better than most in fact, and the brakes are at least price competitive, if not better, in terms of value. Who are they shafting exactly?

And if you are talking about the oil, it's not expensive either and, considering the way it performs, it is clearly a very good oil.

What scare tactics? Telling you that you could seriously compromise the function and reliability of your brakes by using the wrong oil is not an idle threat. It's a fact.

So looking for alternative oils is, in my opinion, one-hundred percent _not _worth it. Unless you're the kind of guy who can pick a fight in an empty room? If it makes you feel big, slaying this imaginary dragon, then please continue. Knock yourself out.


----------



## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

sar·casm
ˈsärˌkazəm/
noun
the use of irony to mock or convey contempt.
"his voice, hardened by sarcasm, could not hide his resentment"
synonyms:	derision, mockery, ridicule, scorn, sneering, scoffing; More


----------



## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Ya I think Pig missed the sarcasm there.

It just hit me it's about once a year this "alternative fluid" thread thing pops up.

Readily available option (need it in a hurry cause last I checked can't get Shimano fluid with Amazon prime) makes sense. Trying to find something to outperform Shimano fluid...Not going to happen.

Sadly a lot of companies have catching up to do in terms of the reliable performance of Shimano brakes. Too many companies "over thought" the designs. Shimano design may not be for everyone but when it comes to brakes that just work and keep working, Shimano is on top by miles.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

RAKC Ind said:


> Ya I think Pig missed the sarcasm there.


Did. Guilty.


----------



## derkenblosh (Mar 27, 2010)

CCRider65 said:


> Magura Blood 16 oz....$17 at Jenson ships for $6


if anyone reads into this far enough.... Magura boils/flashes faster than any name brand fluid. 200f-300F

Pentosin AFT1 fluid FTW
428°F


----------



## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

derkenblosh said:


> if anyone reads into this far enough.... Magura boils/flashes faster than any name brand fluid. 200f-300F
> 
> Pentosin AFT1 fluid FTW
> 428°F


1. Is Magura mineral oil significantly different than other brands of mineral oil?
2. Can you safely use transmission fluid when brakes call for mineral oil?


----------



## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Answer questions

1: can be significant enough to feel it. 

2: hell no, not sure why ANYONE would post ATF for brakes. All the additives in ATF of any kind will cause issues on most things bicycle related. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## derkenblosh (Mar 27, 2010)

phlegm said:


> 1. Is Magura mineral oil significantly different than other brands of mineral oil?
> 2. Can you safely use transmission fluid when brakes call for mineral oil?


1---- yes, all mineral oil is different and because there isn't an unbiased body to certify oil, the only way to prove one is better than they other is to send them all out to an independent lab for testing.

2---- favorite thing to say to this "What's the worst that could happen"  ... ATF is very similar, but has things in it like detergent to keep particles and contaminants suspended in the fluid, and conditioners for the seals of the valving of a transmission.... all un-needed, but something like ATF has to pass stringent lab tests PER-BATCH to meet ASE certifications (screw DOT certs, i don't trust anything where a govt employee is in charge)


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

derkenblosh said:


> screw DOT certs, i don't trust anything where a govt employee is in charge


Where's a government employee in charge with relation to this?

Hmmm...derkenblosh - member coming up on 8 years and half of his post are on this thread. Not very active huh?


----------



## derkenblosh (Mar 27, 2010)

Cleared2land said:


> Where's a government employee in charge with relation to this?
> 
> Hmmm...derkenblosh - member coming up on 8 years and half of his post are on this thread. Not very active huh?
> 
> View attachment 1172429


Never-mind the DOT comment, wasn't constructive anyhow.

Yeah, found this interesting 
... why I do not post does not have to do with the knowledge I hold and obtain (I'm a car-guy, who happens to ride MTB, not the other way around)



RAKC Ind said:


> Answer questions
> 
> 1: can be significant enough to feel it.
> 
> ...


both bases are distillates of petroleum, both bases are de-waxed paraffin... the difference being ATF has additives for ... wear, corrosion, detergent, viscosity, surfactants, etc

wear additives & surfactants, keep the seals from failing from friction in the brake levers and the pistons, also protect the moving metal/metal parts

The detergent keeps particulates suspended vs just falling to the bottom of the line, and resting on the piston/caliper

Corrosion inhibitors stop/reduce electrolysis from happening from any dis-similar metals in the system (not really an issue, but meh ... not going to harm brakes)

viscosity index additives, this keeps the viscosity the same over a wide temperature range

...Why I would post ATF for brakes, because the "special mineral oil" that the brake companies sell, is the same base with their selective additives, they shouldn't even be allowed to call it mineral oil, the second they start adding things to it... it's like calling baked goods "flower"

I'll let you all know in ANOTHER 5 years, when my brakes fail from ATF


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

No ill intent with the post history, it's just interesting. And, it's certainly not a reflection of your knowledge. I'm not sure how you extrapolated that from my post.

There are a number of folks over the years that have run ATF in their Shimano's with no apparent side effects. As I understand, it's not too uncommon in some countries where getting the OEM fluids are difficult or expensive.


----------



## derkenblosh (Mar 27, 2010)

:-D ... I don't remember who this quote is from, but it really should be my signature. 

"Language is the worst form of communication..." -someone smarter than I


I'll put shimano fluid in my brakes when they prove it's better than not using shimano's fluid. 


Oh yeah, and some ATF has additives to deal with the small amounts of water than can find it's way in your system... not that it's needed, i flush the brakes every 6mo of riding, and being in Vegas, water isn;t an issue anyway (minus washing the bike every other ride)


----------



## SidTheKid (Dec 13, 2017)

I was just about to ask very similar question. I went to my LBS today and they sold me a brake bleed kit for my bike, I had it with me, A Giant Stance 2 with Shimano Brakes. I got home and the kit has DOT 5.1 brake fluid in a kit by AVID..here is the kit: https://www.amazon.com/Avid-Profess...13372350&sr=8-8&keywords=avid+brake+bleed+kit
I think I will return it because it definitely doesn't seem right now!


----------



## derkenblosh (Mar 27, 2010)

SidTheKid said:


> I was just about to ask very similar question. I went to my LBS today and they sold me a brake bleed kit for my bike, I had it with me, A Giant Stance 2 with Shimano Brakes. I got home and the kit has DOT 5.1 brake fluid in a kit by AVID..here is the kit: https://www.amazon.com/Avid-Profess...13372350&sr=8-8&keywords=avid+brake+bleed+kit
> I think I will return it because it definitely doesn't seem right now!


yeah, if that brake fluid even TOUCHES your mineral oil based brakes, they will be toast... EVERY SINGLE SEAL will fail, and the lines would ALL need to be replaced... the bodies and components would all need to be soaked in solvent to get the brake fluid off... good thing you read everything.

not even supposed to use a plunger if it's ever been used with DOT 5.1 / 4, because it's contaminated.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

The Avid kit is a top notch bleed kit that I think is better than the Shimano. If it's brand new and has never had Dot 5 in it, then use it with mineral brake fluid. I have two of these kits one with DOT 5 and the mineral oil.


----------



## SidTheKid (Dec 13, 2017)

Cleared2land said:


> The Avid kit is a top notch bleed kit that I think is better than the Shimano. If it's brand new and has never had Dot 5 in it, then use it with mineral brake fluid. I have two of these kits one with DOT 5 and the mineral oil.


I ended up ordering this bleed kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HNP6H42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I also purchased 100cc of the shimano mineral oil. I noticed that the AVID kit doesn't have that oil funnel part that this other kit has. What is necessary for the bleed? should I keep both or send one back? no fluid has contaminated the AVID kit.


----------



## derkenblosh (Mar 27, 2010)

SidTheKid said:


> I ended up ordering this bleed kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HNP6H42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I also purchased 100cc of the shimano mineral oil. I noticed that the AVID kit doesn't have that cup style part that this other kit has. What is necessary for the bleed? should I keep both or send one back? no fluid has contaminated the AVID kit.


I have that kit, but add this to it http://a.co/aEGXl1v

the cup isn't needed, but for quick bleeds it works great... if you don't have a cup, you can use two plungers instead of a cup (for creating a suction force to enlarge and remove bubbles)...

If you're married like me, you can get super-funny looks, when you walk out to the garage with their vibrator and a roll of electrical tape. (nothing gets those bubbles moved out of the lines better than a bullet vibrator) [flame on]


----------



## SidTheKid (Dec 13, 2017)

edit


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

derkenblosh said:


> [flame on]


Your method is worthy and a great idea!


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

The cup is great. And, if bought separately is only a few dollars.

If the decision advice would be mine to make, it would be to keep the avid kit and acquire a funnel.

I use the funnel by itself about 3 or 4 times more frequently than the bleed kit itself.

But if you go with the new kit, I wouldn't consider making any use of that whimpy 7 mm wrench in the kit. Get or use a quality wrench on the line nut.


----------



## derkenblosh (Mar 27, 2010)

Cleared2land said:


> But if you go with the new kit, I wouldn't consider making any use of that whimpy 7 mm wrench in the kit. Get or use a quality wrench on the line nut.
> 
> View attachment 1172655


Yeah that wrench went/belongs in the ga-baj'


----------



## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

The rubber pistons in bleed kit syringes are often different between mineral oil and DOT kits. Some may swell if used with the incorrect fluid. The Jagwire universal DOT kit and mineral oil kit work well in my experience, and have adapters to fit most brands of brakes.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

These syringes come with silicone seals that are multi-compatible with DOT or mineral oil. I have two sets of the Avid bleed kits, one for DOT and the other for the Shimano's.


----------



## standard3x (May 28, 2008)

This thread is in the wrong section and should be moved to the Brake Time section.

In no particular order:

HLM Plus
Pentosin CHF 7.1
Castrol HSMO Plus
Magura Royal Blood
Tektro Mineral Oil


The above can all be used in Shimano hydraulic disc brakes.

I have never actually used the official Shimano mineral oil for bleeds simply because I had plenty of the automotive mineral oils in supply.

From 2004 till now, I have bled hundreds of different sets of Shimano brakes and real world testing in UK conditions prove that all of the above oils work over long periods.

I've been meaning to do a specs comparison between the different mineral oils in order to determine what minimum spec makes them compatible with Shimano brakes but I have never been able to find the complete datasheet for Shimano mineral oil.


----------



## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

standard3x said:


> This thread is in the wrong section and should be moved to the Brake Time section.
> 
> ...


Whoa, slow down man. That process takes 9 years, and this thread is still freshly minted in 2011.


----------



## Guest (Dec 19, 2017)

phlegm said:


> Whoa, slow down man. That process takes 9 years, and this thread is still freshly minted in 2011.


if not more....


----------



## bplaxton (Apr 6, 2021)

eb1888 said:


> Petroleum product may affect the seals. Keep us apprised.


mineral oil is a petroleum product


----------



## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

bplaxton said:


> mineral oil is a petroleum product


Welcome to 2017. Just get outta quarantine?


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

bplaxton said:


> mineral oil is a petroleum product


Wonderfully enlightening! We appreciate your insight in reviving this old thread, especially for your 1st post.


----------



## alaskasail (4 mo ago)

I've enjoyed reading all this. Well,... most of it anyway. So, in order to keep this thread going, I'm wondering about viscosities. Do the afore-mentioned products all have the same viscosity? I ride in Alaska and Arizona so viscosities are of significance.

"Mineral Oil for Brakes:
HLM Plus
Pentosin CHF 7.1
Castrol HSMO Plus
Magura Royal Blood
Tektro Mineral Oil"

How about power steering fluid or motorcycle fork oil like Maxima 5 (Type B)


----------

