# A Vintage Parts Fab



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

If you can no longer buy it, you end up making it.


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## bushpig (Nov 26, 2005)

That is so nicely made. I will PM you my small parts order.


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## crconsulting (Apr 11, 2004)

Very nice, :thumbsup: 

That's an expensive little part there in machine time eh? 3 hours or so......
Makes it about a $300 - $400 part


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

1.5 hours. But yes, an expensive little part, especially when you consider the investment in machines.


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## crconsulting (Apr 11, 2004)

DoubleCentury said:


> 1.5 hours. But yes, an expensive little part, especially when you consider the investment in machines.[/QUOTE}
> 
> You young guys work quick.
> 
> hope you made a fixture so you can make 100 of them


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## ssmike (Jan 21, 2004)

Let's see it in action!

So, are you going to anodize it 3DV?


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

ssmike, if you owned a few GT's you'd know what this was for. ;-)


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## scant (Jan 5, 2004)

is there much demand for brand new replacements for older parts?


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## gm1230126 (Nov 4, 2005)

Looks like the top of a flip flop stem? If so, I never would have gone to the trouble. There are people that have them in NOS for $9.95-$11.95 maybe not the right length though?


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Actually, I don't own any GT's either, thus the ";-)". But I suppose it would work on a GT.

Where is such a part available NOS?


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*The Whole Enchilada*


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

DoubleCentury said:


>


For a Ritchey or maybe a Potts? It just dawned on me that I havent worked on any old bikes in a long while. Looks like you used an existing quill?


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

"It just dawned on me that I havent worked on any old bikes in a long while. Looks like you used an existing quill?"

What do you mean...I stamped the "MAX 22mm" line myself and ribbed the bottom expander. This is serious reproduction work. ;-)

Working on too many carbon bikes and disk brakes?


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

More parts fab, this time 6mm ferrules. Seems like every bike I build these days needs a few.


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## YETIFIED (May 4, 2005)

DoubleCentury said:


> More parts fab, this time 6mm ferrules. Seems like every bike I build these days needs a few.


I can hear the PM's filling up your inbox from way over here!


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

"I can hear the PM's filling up your inbox from way over here!"

Yeah, that occurred to me before posting it. Sorry, I'm not taking orders.


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## YETIFIED (May 4, 2005)

DoubleCentury said:


> "I can hear the PM's filling up your inbox from way over here!"
> 
> Yeah, that occurred to me before posting it. Sorry, I'm not taking orders.


Pah-leeeeeeezzzzzz!!!!!


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## gm1230126 (Nov 4, 2005)

DoubleCentury said:


> Actually, I don't own any GT's either, thus the ";-)". But I suppose it would work on a GT.
> 
> Where is such a part available NOS?


GT Flip Flop stem from 1991. They are commonly available on eBay for as little as $9.95-$15.95 but are always black. One seller has both 1" and 1-1/8" listed in his store quite often. Stop turning and start buying


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## gm1230126 (Nov 4, 2005)

Those are a dime a dozen too. Some of you guys need to learn to use google.
ferrule end-cap cadplate 6mm 10 pack ... $4.99 More common in motorcycle shops these days then bike shops.
There's also a ton of old Tioga 2.0mm innerwire brake cable sets out there that come with them.


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## YETIFIED (May 4, 2005)

gm1230126 said:


> Those are a dime a dozen too. Some of you guys need to learn to use google.
> ferrule end-cap cadplate 6mm 10 pack ... $4.99 More common in motorcycle shops these days then bike shops.
> There's also a ton of old Tioga 2.0mm innerwire brake cable sets out there that come with them.


Cool, score me a couple of packs and then pm me. 6mm OD, 6mm ID step down.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

gm1230126 said:


> They are commonly available on eBay for as little as $9.95-$15.95 but are always black. One seller has both 1" and 1-1/8" listed in his store quite often. Stop turning and start buying


Good to know. However this part and the 6mm ferrules are destined for a very specific application, for a bike as early at 1983-1984. More to come.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*Sausage Links for the Holidays*


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Nice work*

I always love to see machined parts, even if it's something simple. Are those sausage links for dirt drop shifter mounts?

Keep the pics coming.

Maybe we should make this the official thread for repro parts!:thumbsup: I have a few I could share, but nothing too vintage or exciting. I teach machining for the local tech college, so I am constantly coming up with home projects for my bikes!

frog


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*Rollercam 2010*


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## muddybuddy (Jan 31, 2007)

Are you taking orders?


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## Williwoods (May 3, 2004)

those rollercam arms are awesome!


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

"Are you taking orders?"

You are better off winning WTB Rollercams on eBay.


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## ong (Jun 26, 2006)

Wow -- are those rollercam arms just milled out of billet? Very pretty work. I like the blind speedholes!


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## N10S (Sep 27, 2004)

1 cog frog said:


> I always love to see machined parts, even if it's something simple. Are those sausage links for dirt drop shifter mounts?
> 
> Keep the pics coming.
> 
> ...


Dirt drop shifter mounts would be highly desirable whether they were for the standard XT thumbie, or maybe a new style that would bolt right up to a set of vertically mounted 970 XTR trigger shifters. Unbolt the original xtr alloy clamp and bolt the new one on. I have dreamed about this part for some time... .

Nice work on all the parts!!!!


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

Nice! Nice! Nice!


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*9 Speed Dirt Drops*


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## chefmiguel (Dec 22, 2007)

Soooo Good


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Cooool


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Show off. 

F'in awesome.


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## mechagouki (Nov 30, 2007)

I've got two words for you: Syncros stem top cap.


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## fervor (Aug 4, 2005)

Have a pic of your shop?


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## Retro MB (Oct 13, 2007)

All your stuff is fantastic!


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## Williwoods (May 3, 2004)

Not fair to show off goodies like this and then not offer some for sale to the members here.

I also understand its a freaking pain in the neck to get stuff made in the first place. not cheap and time consuming.


bravo !!! good job! 


bastard!!


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*Old-school shop, no CNC*


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## proto2000 (Jan 27, 2007)

Me like the Hardinge on wheels. I have a shop myself and have produced a few parts for some of the guys here. NO, I AM NOT TAKING ORDERS EITHER GUYS.......


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## fervor (Aug 4, 2005)

DoubleCentury said:


> View attachment 588030


Hey thanks. What do you think of some of the smaller hobby mill / lathes?


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Nice setup!*

Love your shop, small, neat, and just what you need!

I tried the dirt drop mounts for XTR Shifters, but mine didn't turn out so well. I actually sent them to someone on the boards, but never heard back how they worked. I love to look at parts on my bike realize, hey, I could make that whether it's something VRC, or just a normal part. I have a schwinn cruiser that has a bunch of parts I made for it. Lots of fun, and I always like knowing I made part of my bike.

My next goal; learn how to weld and make my own frame!:thumbsup:

Keep the pics coming, I will dig some up when I get back to school next week!

frog


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## N10S (Sep 27, 2004)

DoubleCentury said:


> View attachment 587936


Ahhh...no way, those look great!! Man I would give one of these other guys left testicle for just one mount for the rear shifter!!!


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## laffeaux (Jan 4, 2004)

That's a lot of really nice work. I'd love to have the machines and the skills to use them.


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## alexk (Sep 30, 2005)

mechagouki said:


> I've got two words for you: Syncros stem top cap.


Second that.


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Thirded


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

OK, if you're talking about the angled plastic cap that presumably cracks, that's not easily replicated in metal because of the angled lip. At the moment I can't think of any way cheap to actually make that.


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## muddybuddy (Jan 31, 2007)

The Syncros cap I have on an early 90s threadless stem is made of metal. Looks like magnesium?


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## bucktruck (Jan 8, 2006)

DoubleCentury,
Sorry, but I'm going to have to call you out on this one. There is no way in hell you could have made those parts in your shop because I see not a single metal chip on the floor, the milling machine table, or even in the chip tray of the lathe. 

Hell, I wish my kitchen was that clean most days!

Now, as a machinist dork and manufacturing engineer who makes bike parts daily, please tell me about your Hardinge lathe. Not sure if I recognize that one.

Nice work, BTW :thumbsup:


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## proto2000 (Jan 27, 2007)

Ha, so true but what is the looptail lurking behind the lathe?


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Every shop is new for once in it's life...and I keep mine clean.

The Hardinge is a T-10, the predecessor to the HLV and HLV-H. It was built in 1942 and issued directly to the US government through the Defense Plant Corporation. The lathe was a mess when I got it and was missing the tailstock, so I made one from scratch. The restoration took a year.

The looptail was an NOS Yeti Ultimate I sold some time back. The story appeared in the Sunday Times,

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/sport/more_sport/cycling/article6849584.ece


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## Schmitty (Sep 7, 2008)

muddybuddy said:


> The Syncros cap I have on an early 90s threadless stem is made of metal. Looks like magnesium?


We talked about these caps somewhere else here on vrc.... I would try emachine.com.. draw it and get quotes. The metal ones are Al.

An option that may work, and ease machining would be to sleeve and braze two different parts together. I don't have a stem to look at.. avoided them like the plague.

-Schmitty-


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

After seeing what you are making I'm assuming that none of that stuff is available any longer commercially. Or you probably wouldn't take the time.

In the old days before many others had done it I made adapters to mount thumb shifters to drop bars. They looked a lot like yours. Then someone started selling adapters. WTB I think. I never bought any because mine worked fine and eventually I made my own bars that eliminated the need. But lately I have been thinking of using drop bars again just for fun. So does anyone still make shifter adapters for drops? Paul Thummies look like the only work on small dia flats. Also that quilled steerer stub is key if you want to run an LD stem with 1" threaded. Anybody sell those? I've seen 1" to 1 1/8 stubs but they are always sold out.


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## N10S (Sep 27, 2004)

modifier said:


> After seeing what you are making I'm assuming that none of that stuff is available any longer commercially. Or you probably wouldn't take the time.
> 
> In the old days before many others had done it I made adapters to mount thumb shifters to drop bars. They looked a lot like yours. Then someone started selling adapters. WTB I think. I never bought any because mine worked fine and eventually I made my own bars that eliminated the need. But lately I have been thinking of using drop bars again just for fun. So does anyone still make shifter adapters for drops? Paul Thummies look like the only work on small dia flats. Also that quilled steerer stub is key if you want to run an LD stem with 1" threaded. Anybody sell those? I've seen 1" to 1 1/8 stubs but they are always sold out.


As you mentioned Paul's makes a road thumbie for 26.0mm bars, but they are really only good for mounting on the top of the bars which for me would not be workable when riding off road. Kelly currently makes the Take-offs as well:
http://kellybike.com/2nd_xtra_takeoff.html
This is actually closer to the original WTB design, but using upright down tube shifters like that reminds me of the 70's when they came out with the stem mounted downtube shifters. Seems like a more road-oriented shifter mount than an off-road solution but maybe you can use the Dura ace bar ends on the Kelly take offs in an inverted configuration? With the increased movement of drop-bar mtb's and Montsercross bikes, this is a opportunity waiting for a solution.


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## Schmitty (Sep 7, 2008)

STI?

-Schmitty-


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## Jak0zilla (May 16, 2010)

Schmitty said:


> STI?


Sometimes. The brake-lever pull doesn't suit every brake. Plus I've always avoided STI because they are so complex internally that I just don't trust them to hold up. (Roll your eyes if you must. I still run down tube mounted shifters on my road bike.)


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

Schmitty said:


> STI?
> 
> -Schmitty-


Yep, works great and pretty much the same cable pull as most any drop bar lever.

As for STI shifting mechanisms being fragile, no way. Super durable. Same as Rapid Fire.


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## Schmitty (Sep 7, 2008)

Fillet-brazed said:


> Yep, works great and pretty much the same cable pull as most any drop bar lever.
> 
> As for STI shifting mechanisms being fragile, no way. Super durable. Same as Rapid Fire.


110%. Would way rather run STI than these bolt on workarounds...it's one of the good things in life.

-Schmitty-


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## jacquie phelan (Oct 1, 2009)

DoubleCentury said:


> If you can no longer buy it, you end up making it.


charlie sez: 
"It sez in this thread thatif it took an hour to make, it would cost 3-400 bucks". 
To which he adds "not here at Taj Mahovel. 
Check out our amazing 1983 shop rates!!


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## proto2000 (Jan 27, 2007)

*Nice story*



DoubleCentury said:


> Every shop is new for once in it's life...and I keep mine clean.
> 
> The Hardinge is a T-10, the predecessor to the HLV and HLV-H. It was built in 1942 and issued directly to the US government through the Defense Plant Corporation. The lathe was a mess when I got it and was missing the tailstock, so I made one from scratch. The restoration took a year.
> 
> ...


Glad to hear all things fell into place. I used to stand at a Hardinge with a turret tailstock/cross slide for ten hours a day, those were the days my friend.


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## hollister (Sep 16, 2005)

Schmitty said:


> 110%. Would way rather run STI than these bolt on workarounds...it's one of the good things in life.
> 
> -Schmitty-


I'll take that trade


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## jacquie phelan (Oct 1, 2009)

proto2000 said:


> Glad to hear all things fell into place. I used to stand at a Hardinge with a turret tailstock/cross slide for ten hours a day, those were the days my friend.


YARG
i just realized I have no flippin' idea how to place correctly my comment (it was referring to talk about the modern hourly rate for an ace machinist/inventor -- sorry guys, better sort out the protocols.
Jacquie P. not the pro to call in a technomergency


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

"charlie sez:
"It sez in this thread thatif it took an hour to make, it would cost 3-400 bucks".
To which he adds "not here at Taj Mahovel.
Check out our amazing 1983 shop rates!!"

LOL!

Fear no competition here. I'm just an amateur with a day job.

Besides, I submitted a brazing job to Taj Mahovel not long ago.


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Shop rate*

Not sure about other parts of the country, but shop rate here in Utah is around $80 an hour plus tools, materials, etc.

It always shocks people how much non production machine work costs. I have people come into the Tech College where I teach looking for someone to make "this simple little part" for them. They always choke when I tell them what typical shop rates are.

Just one of the small perks of working at a tech college!

frog


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## proto2000 (Jan 27, 2007)

Hey Jacquie P, that was some time ago when I was standing around on the job but I do still tinker in the shop to make parts that I can't find or if I see a fellow biker in a pickle to get his/her ride back on the dirt. Shop rates are "who you know" rather than the standard 80 bucks an hour. Of course trades are always welcome by the guys who have access to machinery.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*Manitou Downsizing*


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## alexk (Sep 30, 2005)

Schmitty said:


> We talked about these caps somewhere else here on vrc.... I would try emachine.com.. draw it and get quotes. The metal ones are Al.
> 
> An option that may work, and ease machining would be to sleeve and braze two different parts together. I don't have a stem to look at.. avoided them like the plague.
> 
> -Schmitty-


This will be it:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=5879700


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## Mattias_Hellöre (Oct 2, 2005)

Fun to see anyone like me does make his own bike parts, I do have a well equipped shop too.

It´s a big peace of mind to make his own stuff and use them.

Take a look of my creations:









YES it´s a flite copy with kevlar cover.


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

I hope you lube that thing.

On a serious note, more pics please.


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## Mattias_Hellöre (Oct 2, 2005)

Old school type SS


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## Austin Dave (Jul 7, 2010)

I sent the link to this thread to Charlie Cunningham, thinking he might enjoy it, and he did. And he responded with some wonderful home-grown engineering of his own. I asked if I could share the notes and pics he sent and he said sure, but stressed that the pictures were just quick snapshots and that parts he made were "quite industrial, but function quite well." How cool is that?

Hi Dave,
Thanks for the info. I'm always interested in what avid bikers are up to. I needed a pair of flatbar friction shifters for one of my bikes a few years ago and couldn't find anything I liked so I made some that bolt onto the brake lever. They have a nice cable pull ratio, meaning the levers don't need to be moved very far to make a shift. I've refined the shape of the part where the finger and thumb grab them to get all the shifting characteristics I want. (I used bondo which is light and the shape is easily changed/modified.) They work great and produce reliable, accurate shifts. I took a few pics a minute ago with Jacquie's camera and will see if I can get her to email them to you.

Charlie













































Here is more clarification about the levers: 
Hi Dave,
I'm fine with you sharing the pics but upon seeing them I'd have to say most of them are pretty crappy. But at least they give an idea of what's going on. Each shifter barrel has an adjustable friction setting that can be locked in position when the friction is just right. The arms are M5x0.8 cap screws and the core of the finger blobs are made of magnesium with set screws that mount them (adjust-ably) on the arms. Overall look is quite industrial but they function very well.
C


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## ephsea (Feb 22, 2010)

Speaking of making what you can't get, I have decided I must have some stock to cut myself cassette spacers to size as needed. Aluminum rod was my first thought, but maybe PVC is a good cheaper/lighter option? One size I want is some 0.2mm spacers (index shifting w/xc pro thumbies and shimano 6-7spd cogs) so perhaps PVC won't hold up this thin? Anyone have/know where I can get a few feet of 42mm OD 39mm ID tubing?
Side note I have just discovered this forum after years of lurking on MTBR and y'all are AWESOME!
Charlie why dontchya paint that bondo if it's aesthetic is bothering you? Still hate paint?

10spd is for chumps


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*Suntour + Magura*


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## stan lee (Mar 5, 2006)

Very Cool!


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

You're killing us!


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Send me a couple. I will put them on one of my old steeds and see how they hold up.    

Quality control,
T


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

All are spoken for.


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Inspired*

After looking at all DoubleCentury's work, I was inspired to revisit the dirt drop shift mounts. I bought some shifters a while back, but forgot I had them. Not XT or XTR, can't afford those!

Should work this time!:thumbsup:


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

How about a pic of them mounted up?


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Mounted...*

on an Origin 8 Gary bar, cuz my Woodchipper is currently wrapped, and I don't have any of the original WTB bars.

Looks promising:thumbsup:

BTW the marks on the bar are from an earlier experiment that didn't work so well. The clamps I have are shimmed, as I don't own the WTB modded towers/clamps either. These are suntour towers with some clamps I bought from Loose Screws to try.


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

That's not too close to the levers for you?


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Nice work Frog!

I prefer a bit more room for riding on the hoods.


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

This is the initial mount up, haven't even put them on a bike yet. Personally, I don't like the Gary bars, the drop extension is way too short. These will be destined for the Woodchipper bars on my DB Overdrive.

I only mounted them up to these bars to see what they looked like. The position will take some tweaking, but I didn't want to unwrap the other bars until I was sure they would work.

I will have to fiddle with them quite a bit before I am satisfied.:thumbsup: 

frog


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

I like it! That may be the ticket to making them feel right. Luckily, that's an easy mod!

Are those the original DKG mounts? I assume you made the extensions? I would love to see the plans for those. I think the hole pattern for the shifters I have is different than the XT/XTR. There seemed to be no rhyme or reason to it while I was reverse engineering it!:madman: 

Glad to see I'm not the only one who is constantly tinkering w/bike parts!

BTW DoubleCentury, what do you do for a living? Just curious how you got into machining?

frog


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## xy9ine (Feb 2, 2005)

it's a maker thread! love the diy projects. the cunningham ghetto-fab thumbies are awesome.


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## Williwoods (May 3, 2004)

seriously, awesome to see some modern cunning-fabbed parts.


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## Austin Dave (Jul 7, 2010)

Williwoods said:


> seriously, awesome to see some modern cunning-fabbed parts.


Yeah, isn't that great? Of course, Charlie Cunningham still makes incredibly well-finished bike parts too, like the lever-link brake on BMC Mike's bike:

https://blackmountaincycles.blogspot.com/2010/08/if-it-gets-any-better-than-this.html










More pics:

__
https://flic.kr/p/4866334206

But CC's MacGyver parts are inspirational, for sure.


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## Williwoods (May 3, 2004)

Sick


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*Small parts in stainless*

Can anyone that doesn't already know guess what these were made for?


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## Austin Dave (Jul 7, 2010)

ninja robot-assassins?



DoubleCentury said:


> Can anyone that doesn't already know guess what these were made for?
> 
> View attachment 596907


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

Look like cable stops for the XT thumbie dirt drop shifter mounts? Wait, am I allowed to guess? 

BTW, very nice work as usual!:thumbsup: 

frog


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Yes, good guess.


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Wait!*

Did you cast those too?

Holy crap, you have quite the setup!

Now I am jealous, and my shop has a HAAS CNC Mill and Mori Seiki dual spindle CNC Lathe!

More info and pics please!


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Sorry, no these are some WTB leftovers.

I have no CNC machines.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*No CNC*

I suppose a CNC would have been really helpful for this 15 years ago,


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## Williwoods (May 3, 2004)

what the hell is that contraption? no front brake and looks like no cassette...........I need more info please.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

More when the project is finished.


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## Williwoods (May 3, 2004)

ah ok. looks like a long term project for sure. looks like homemade derailleurs and brakes etc....

you own hubs too?


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Yes, as much as I could make myself. But then I started riding lots and life got in the way.


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## Williwoods (May 3, 2004)

awesome. hopefully it functions as nice as it looks.


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Keep it coming*

Definitely want to see more of that project!

All on manual machines, you are the man!

What's the story?

frog


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)




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## stan lee (Mar 5, 2006)

FASPs?


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## Mr.Magura (Aug 11, 2010)

Hey DC,

Nice to see someone else who also managed to shake the armchair 

Have you considered taking up carbon fiber and Kevlar for making parts? 

I tend to find that fiber is a better and easier solution these days.

Having said that, I will admit to still use aluminium and titanium on regular basis. 


Magura


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## muddybuddy (Jan 31, 2007)

DoubleCentury said:


> View attachment 613658


Are those all reprove or are we supposed to see if we can identify the original one(s)? Either way, beautiful work.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

You'll be able to tell them apart from the originals because they will only be attached to bikes that I own.


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## Mr.Magura (Aug 11, 2010)

DoubleCentury said:


> You'll be able to tell them apart from the originals because they will only be attached to bikes that I own.
> 
> View attachment 613681
> 
> ...


Nice work there.

Would you mind taking a photo of the post in bits and pieces?

Magura


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## fervor (Aug 4, 2005)

DoubleCentury said:


> You'll be able to tell them apart from the originals because they will only be attached to bikes that I own.


Nice. Is the seat angle fixed? How did you cut on the arch on the top piece?


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## crconsulting (Apr 11, 2004)

DoubleCentury said:


> You'll be able to tell them apart from the originals because they will only be attached to bikes that I own.


Real Nice Mr T! Those are looking good.

I know how to tell them from the originals 

but only because I have the originals


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## Mr.Magura (Aug 11, 2010)

On DoubleCentury's request, some pics of some of my DIY stuff:

I have no pics at hand of the carbon road fork, but will get some ASAP.





Carbon brake pads (the material is not the same carbon as you see frames made of, but rather some aerospace stuff called Carbenix)



A thermal image of the carbon brake pads in action.



A floating rotor.



Pulley wheels made of carbon multi-wall nanotubes 


Kevlar based chain rings.


Magura


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## Linoleum (Aug 25, 2008)

DoubleCentury said:


> You'll be able to tell them apart from the originals because they will only be attached to bikes that I own.[/ATTACH]


I wish I owned a bike worthy of such nice work. Really neat stuff, thanks for posting!


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## stan lee (Mar 5, 2006)

DoubleCentury said:


> You'll be able to tell them apart from the originals because they will only be attached to bikes that I own.


Why does CC use two separate pieces for the post? Or maybe a better question is why did you use one solid piece?


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

These are indeed fixed angle seatposts, so a special fixture is used to mill the appropriate angle, which is determined either by trial and error or mocking up with a conventional post.

The large radius and chamfer to the top clamp piece was made by turning a hockey puck size piece of aluminum, then dividing it in half and finishing up on a mill. One puck makes to clamp pieces.

Charlie's earliest posts were made as one piece, but currently available tapered posts are two pieces and are centerless ground. He prefers not to have to machine the thin tubing, especially for the larger posts. Of course those also have an insert glued in the upper portion. For the tapered posts, I started with 1-1/4" OD tubing with 1/4" wall, so the inside was opened up to 7/8" and the outside was turned down to about 1-1/16". There is a lot of machine time involved in making those smaller posts, like 12 to 15 hours each for a complete post. Yikes.


----------



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)




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## Mr.Magura (Aug 11, 2010)

Thanks. A nice way of making a seat post indeed.


Magura


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

And I felt good helping my son with his pinewood derby car. 

So Impressive....


----------



## Mr.Magura (Aug 11, 2010)

A pic of my DIY carbon fork.

Keep in mind it was made a long time ago. To be exact 18 years ago.


Magura


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

DC, excellence personified!

Camerawork coming along nicely too ;-)


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## fervor (Aug 4, 2005)

DoubleCentury said:


> The large radius and chamfer to the top clamp piece was made by turning a hockey puck size piece of aluminum, then dividing it in half and finishing up on a mill. One puck makes to clamp pieces.


Thanks, now I can see how you made these. I couldn't figure out how you had made them so consistent.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*The Making of a Cunningham-like Brake*

A few steps in the manual production process of this brake. There is a pattern involved, but it is still a very tedious process so I only make a brake if I really need it.

As I later learned, this design was done in the 1930's and was known as the Schultz brake. I call this one the linear-cross-bar-brake or LCBB.


----------



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

The Schultz brake can be seen on this bike, and what a wild bike it is!

http://www.reneherse.com/Schultz.html


----------



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*Lost Part*

How many of these have been lost over the years?


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## utahdog2003 (Jul 8, 2004)

DoubleCentury said:


> How many of these have been snapped into a bajillion pieces over the years?


Fixed if for you.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Ha ha, that's pretty good.

For something that had a rep for breaking, it's not light. Oh, and it's not going on any of my bikes either!


----------



## Mr.Magura (Aug 11, 2010)

utahdog2003 said:


> Fixed if for you.


Yeah that's right, I seem to recall these going south the hard way too.

Funny though, cause when I look at it, it seems to be made well, and the engineering behind seems sound enough as well.

It could be interesting to make FEA on it, just to see what exactly went wrong.

Magura


----------



## erol/frost (Jan 3, 2004)

Mr.Magura said:


> Yeah that's right, I seem to recall these going south the hard way too.
> 
> Funny though, cause when I look at it, it seems to be made well, and the engineering behind seems sound enough as well.
> 
> ...


Where did these usually break?


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*More Lost Parts*

Paired once again,


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

absolutely love this stuff....double century: did you work with cc at any time?


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

I visited him in person for the first time last year, and we exchanged some ideas and shared many similar interests.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

i'm guessing this isnt just a hobby for you? i'm intrigued! i'd love to make/modify components that looked even half as sano as yours...and as charlie i think knows, i've long had massive respect for his work too...


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

Picnics, long walks on the beach...


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## TheMachinist (Feb 24, 2007)

erol/frost said:


> Where did these usually break?


There is a lot of flex in the horizontal sections that make up the extension part of the stem.

I made this one back in 1995. It held up just fine, but I could feel a lot of twisting flex when I cranked on the bars. And that was back when I weighed in at 145 lbs. I always intended to redesign it with the cross supports connecting to each other as triangles. I still haven't gotten around to it.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Kind of hard to beat a tubular stem design.

dRjOn, this is all just a hobby if you want to call it that.


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## rotkisak (Aug 1, 2011)

Nice...I'm jealous


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## mike GT (Aug 9, 2010)

excellent ,i love all this stuff , if i get 10 posts i''ll stick some pics up of my machined stuff


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## -Anomie- (Jan 16, 2005)

Super jealous of your shop  especially now that I have the room for the tools. Oh well, I bought myself a drill press yesterday, gotta start somewhere.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

In 1989 I made cantilever brakes with only a drill press, hacksaw, and files. So yeah, go for it!


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## mike GT (Aug 9, 2010)

replacement suspenders crown 








super vee rear disc mount 








mc tech inspired crank (w.i.p.)








mc tech inspired stem


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## Levi Strauss (Jan 20, 2008)

100% handmade


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

Levi Strauss said:


> 100% handmade


Wow. Pretty cool and without all the expensive machinery! Lots of time invested there I'm sure.


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## Levi Strauss (Jan 20, 2008)

yes lots of time ...
the linkage was an old white industries crank


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## mike GT (Aug 9, 2010)

cool old school machining there 
but was it done on a treadle lathe/drill ?


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## Levi Strauss (Jan 20, 2008)

for the first step i use a drill press (?) . can see this on pic #1


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Excellent work Levi, especially that handmade brake. It looks vaguely familiar.


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## Austin Dave (Jul 7, 2010)

*Interesting bike and shop....*

You'd be a while waiting for me to figure out how to do this....nice shop.
http://www.sciencefriday.com/embed/video/10400.swf


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Cool!

Super nice shop too.


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## unicrown junkie (Nov 12, 2009)

*Steel cleats*

Well, I can't hold water up to these awesome CNC guys here, but my latest cycling dilemma has revolved around the lack of cleats for old style clip and strap combo.

So I ended up cutting the parts out of steel and brazing them up. Then the fun began, where I had to file the slot necessary for the pedal cage, that took quite awhile.

The one on the right was a proto, the one on the left is my third generation version.


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

unicrown junkie said:


> Well, I can't hold water up to these awesome CNC guys here, but my latest cycling dilemma has revolved around the lack of cleats for old style clip and strap combo.
> 
> So I ended up cutting the parts out of steel and brazing them up. Then the fun began, where I had to file the slot necessary for the pedal cage, that took quite awhile.
> 
> The one on the right was a proto, the one on the left is my third generation version.


Very cool. I think most riders these days don't even know how a toe strap is designed to work, let alone cleats.


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Another project*

I actually finished this a while ago, but the McMahon thread reminded me of it. This is an adapter I made to run ISO 6 bolt rotors on older White Industries/Rock Shox hubs. I had to make a few prototypes from butterboard to get the fit just right, but in the end they turned out pretty well.

I have yet to build a wheel with the hub, but I tried it in a frame running discs, and things lined up fine.

frog


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Interesting. I could have sworn that I once saw a 6 bolt rotor on a RS hub owned by Mike of Black Mountain Cycles, but I've never looked into it myself. It is good to know that it can be done, otherwise my wheelset is worthless to me now.


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## Austin Dave (Jul 7, 2010)

Saw these on the Flicker Back Road Bike Group. Cool pics all around but these levers are elegant. I didn't make them or know anything more about them. I just like them.

Flickr: Back_road_bike


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

The modern bolt pattern wasn't the only difference. The position of the rotor also had to be pushed more outboard to work with modern discs. The tricky part was figuring out how much, and then how to get the bolts to sit below the surface so the rotor would mount flush. It took machining off the bolt head a little to work. Not sure how well it will work, as it has yet to be tested.


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## pinguwin (Aug 20, 2004)

I had a Klein bearing press but not the attachments. Attachmentless no longer.










Parts on the left I made. On the right are a friends parts I copied.


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Hot!!!!!



Austin Dave said:


> Saw these on the Flicker Back Road Bike Group. Cool pics all around but these levers are elegant. I didn't make them or know anything more about them. I just like them.
> 
> Flickr: Back_road_bike


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## Ironv6 (Aug 19, 2011)

WOW, i´m amazed mates, your work is beautiful. I have also made some small parts for my bikes, this is a brake support for my STS.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*More Parts for the Holidays*

Who needs a CNC machine if you have 3 hours to kill?


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## bushpig (Nov 26, 2005)

Nice. Almost there!


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## Ironv6 (Aug 19, 2011)

It is a beauty mate, and three hours is not too much for this part.


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## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

I'm getting interested in trying my hand at some homemade rollercams, but do not have access to a reference set. I'm at work mucking around with the CAD system so can't measure the ones on my bike right now. Can someone please tell me the center to center distance of the mounting holes.
Thanks


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## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

80-90mm seems about the range.
I have a frame with U-brake mounts on the rear seat stays and they are 87mm apart.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*Lever Me*


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Up late working on that? Damn! Wow.

I said DAMN!!!!


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## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

Very nice set of lever links! Are those brass bushings press fit or loose fit?


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## GMF (Jan 10, 2004)

Very impressive - the brass accents are a nice touch.


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## Surly Gentleman (Aug 9, 2010)

WOW! i'm by no means an expert but i'm amazed at the stuff in this thread. i'd love to be able to produce something like these from scratch but my brain just doesn't think in 3d...

thanks all for sharing your work.


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## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

Although not nearly as impressive as the other stuff in this thread I found a need to make some replacement crown race seats for a Bontrager Comp fork that the previous owner had pummeled. I had then anodized before installing them.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Very nice crown race seats! I need to make a bunch of those myself.



classen said:


> Very nice set of lever links! Are those brass bushings press fit or loose fit?


Loose fit. The aluminum is 2024-T6 and may have enough hardness to act as its own bearing surface. Or it needs to be hard-anodized, we shall see.


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## Funrover (Oct 4, 2006)

Great stuff! WOW!!!


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## toyota200x (Sep 9, 2005)

Love this thread. You do some amazing work. Thanks for posting !


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*The latest...*

Needed a canti cable hanger for a '96 Marzocchi fork (when they still had a removeable hanger you could bolt to the arch). Unfortunately, I only had a couple grainy pics and a pair of calipers. Took a bit of measuring, but the end result works. I may re-make it and move the stop up further, as the traddles cable is pretty close to the tire.

1st pic is from the fork owners manual.

frog


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## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

Here are a few cable stops I made for a friend's FUNK.
What a weird design to have the cable stops as separate screw in items :skep:


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Nice work guys!

Classen, at one time those stops were a Suntour framebuilding catalog item, but sadly nowhere to be found these days. Trek used them a lot on the bonded frames. When installing it helps to use Loctite or a Nylon washer underneath (ala Mantis) to set the orientation. Nice threading to a shoulder.

Mine for WTB multimounts,

http://forums.mtbr.com/7756189-post89.html


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## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

DC, Do you have a picture of the jig you used to bend the steel for this spring?










I have been totally inspired by Charlie Cunningham's modern take on the roller/toggle cam brakes so I pretty much plagiarized his design as best I could.

These are from one of Mike's bikes at Black Mountain Cycles.










Here is my version:


















I think I got a bit carried away with the 2000 grit sand paper, but it's kinda therapeutic.

I'm still working on the springs and the brake booster (lots and lots of hand filing and sanding)


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Try bending them manually in a lathe after putting the 90 degree bend in them.


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

There's on thing I've never heard mentioned in these CC Roller/Toggle threads. How much do they weigh? With all the iterations/tweaking done over the years I can imagine the numbers are all over the map.


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## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

I just thought I'd post an update on my spring bending skills.

I think I've finally figured out a system that works. Here are some pictures of the bending post I use. It is held very firmly in the 6 jaw chuck and I then use an assortment of 1/2",5/8", and 3/4" wrenches to gradually bend the spring around the radius of the bending tool. As you can see from the progression... it took a few tries to get my technique dialed in.

I'm now working on the hex nut that they will slot into.


































I bent these to a 1/2" diamter, but I've since determined that the "D" is probably a bit too small to fit in the spring holder that has a 0.25" thru hole... so I'm going to redo it with a 0.6" diameter bending post.


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## Joe Steel (Dec 30, 2003)

Very cool!


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Niiiice.


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## dirtdrop (Dec 29, 2003)

Nice work yall!

Don't forget to taper grind your springs...


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## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

DC, what thickness Titanium sheet are these made from?

... and what is the OD and ID?










Thanks


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## crux (Jan 10, 2004)

Very cool thread, just stumbled across it this evening. The brakes turned out really nice. 

Having a lathe and mill have come in handy when you need to fabricate some obsolete parts. I just made an Oar lock set for a friends boat out of brass fitting the original fittings. 

While the lathe was running the mill was open so I made a new top cap and lockring for a damaged WI freewheel. Gap is much tighter than original and the walnut burl is nearly flush with the edge of the cog.

Any more pics of custom parts I would love to see them.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

classen said:


> DC, what thickness Titanium sheet are these made from?
> 
> ... and what is the OD and ID?
> 
> ...


The original (left) is hardened carbon steel and is 0.020" thick.

The Ti one (right) is 6/4 alloy and 0.017" thick with 0.235" ID and 0.710" OD.


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## bushpig (Nov 26, 2005)

How does the Ti one work? Does Ti have a similar hardness to the steel?


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

The Ti has good wear resistance and is about on par with the hardened steel. And it doesn't corrode.


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

crux said:


> very cool thread, just stumbled across it this evening. The brakes turned out really nice.
> 
> Having a lathe and mill have come in handy when you need to fabricate some obsolete parts. I just made an oar lock set for a friends boat out of brass fitting the original fittings.
> 
> ...


slick!


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

crux said:


> Very cool thread, just stumbled across it this evening. The brakes turned out really nice.
> 
> Having a lathe and mill have come in handy when you need to fabricate some obsolete parts. I just made an Oar lock set for a friends boat out of brass fitting the original fittings.
> 
> ...


Thats rad. Love the organic with the metal.


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*Odd-Ball Part*

I think this particular part was discussed on VRC in the recent past, because there aren't any modern substitutes. What is the specific use?


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## digilux (Mar 23, 2007)

DoubleCentury said:


> What is the specific use?


straddle cable... :thumbsup:


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

I'm guessing those are silver soldered? I'm surprised that is strong enough for brake cable forces. But I guess it is. Any special treatment to get the solder to stick to the stainless steel cable?


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

It's actually lead/tin solder like the originals and the cable is zinc-plated plain-steel.

They are straddle cables for a very specific brake.


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## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

DoubleCentury said:


> It's actually lead/tin solder like the originals and the cable is zinc-plated plain-steel.
> 
> They are straddle cables for a very specific brake.


ird?


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Yes, IRD Progressive. Takes small buttons with nothing hanging off the ends.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Someone just got really stoked.


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## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

I was attempting to make a set of WTB-style brake boosters for my brakes and was in the machine shops hacking away with a file and some Scotch Brite when a real machinist walked by and asked what I was doing. He wasn't super impressed with my handmade version and thought he could do a much better job with his CNC end mill.... who was I to say otherwise? 

Here you can see my hand made version (or at least as far as I got before the idea of the CNC'ed ones came to fruition). I was going to remove some more material and drill the mounting holes, but there was no way I would ever have been able to make these outstanding WTB replicas without a real CNC machine and the help of a friend. My version 54 grams. The awesome CNC version 27 grams.


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## syklystt (Mar 31, 2010)

this is a great thread...some very creative tings going on...Im an engineer by trade so I always am thinking of new stuff for my bikes but never do much more than make notes for future ref (I have an extremely unique bike design Im gonna do one of these dayys). I kinda did what someone else here did, I made a crown for a fork. It was for a Manitou 1 back around 93. I made it out of magnesium because we had a bunch of it around for projects. After about two months that damn thing broke on me while wheelying thru a smart ditch. The corresponding crash almost broke my collarbone...again. Luckily it didnt, but what it did was to make me not make any more parts. I still have it somewhere in one of my bike parts bins from long ago. I alos had a 26" trials bike form the late 90's. The frame was a Hawk (made special for a friend). The friend is a machinist and he made 80% of the parts on that bike himself, most out of torlon and peek, ect...and plastics like that...strong as steel when properly heat treated but the weight of plastic...and extremely expensive..or it was back then. I sold that bike on ebay about 8 years ago. I'm sure the person thats got it now has no clue what all those parts are.
I currently have access to a real nice 3d printer that uses some tough materials so I'm thinking of what I can do with it for parts..plastic parts mostly but its good for molds and cores too...just gotta make some things...Hmmmmmmm.
I do 3d design all day too...so if someone wants to collaborate on something, I'd be willing to discuss trading modeling time for machining or parts??? I's also real good for figuring out angles and anything to do with tube bending and sheetmetal forming.
For those that dont know...if you draw profiles then scan and vectorize..or just make them on the computer...you can laser cut sheets of aluminum, steel, carbon fiber...tubing...ect...for relatively cheap.
Keep up the fine work everybody...very cool stuff.


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## bushpig (Nov 26, 2005)

Awesome there classen!


----------



## muddybuddy (Jan 31, 2007)

Very nice. Now, if they only had the logo on them...


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## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

muddybuddy said:


> Very nice. Now, if they only had the logo on them...


:nono:

I think that would cross the line between respectful homage to a classic MTB component and downright counterfeit.

I'm very pleased with them, and certainly don't want people to think I have an original WTB brake booster (because I can't really afford them anyways... my bids are just never high enough ). Anyways, I drew them just by looking at photographs I found on the interwebs since I don't own a real WTB set.


----------



## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

Hi DC, or anyone else who might know. What are these bolts? The ones for fixing the toggle cam or the roller cam rollers to the brake arm.










Are they a shoulder bolt? Obviously they've been modified to have a little indent where the springs rest, but what bolt were they before meeting the lathe?

I could make something like this from 3/8" stainless steel hex bar stock


----------



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

It is made from 5/16" (8 mm) stainless hex stock with a 10-32 thread.

Both versions of the WTB brake sometimes came with plain 10-32 screws and a stack of washers and spacers.


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## Mossey Oak (Oct 22, 2004)

Man, such great parts. Love all the pics! They bring back so many memories!


----------



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

This is alloy replacement hardware for Campy Super Record hubs, made for the true weight weenie who won't be named.


----------



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Maybe it was just a little too late at night when I came up with this.

(Ignore the cross brace)


----------



## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

I'm pretty pleased with how these stainless steel pulley shoulder bolts turned out. I even took a 3/8" ball end mill to the ends to lose an extra gram .


----------



## -Anomie- (Jan 16, 2005)

classen said:


> I'm pretty pleased with how these stainless steel pulley shoulder bolts turned out. I even took a 3/8" ball end mill to the ends to lose an extra gram .


Wow, nice work! I know DC is a master of the mill (and patience), but it's nice to know there are others who do quality work (unlike my hand filed hack jobs ).


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## CCMDoc (Jan 21, 2010)

Pure artistry at work on these pages. :thumbsup:


----------



## pinguwin (Aug 20, 2004)

Syncros Steerhorns have an aluminum clamping wedge that snugs against the bar with a steel set screw. Eventually these wedges crack so I fabbed a few of them today.

The ones in back are experiments, ones in the middle are the real new deals, and the bottom is the original part. The other picture shows how they fit into the inside of the bar end. The new ones fit exactly as the original parts did. Not the most sophisticated part but something I needed.


----------



## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Good to see you are getting around Pinguin. Cool stuff.


----------



## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

Sweet!  Can you describe how you made them?


----------



## TheMachinist (Feb 24, 2007)

classen said:


> Sweet!  Can you describe how you made them?


Looks like he milled the ends with the mill head set at the correct angle and then cut them to length in the lathe. Well, that's how I would do it anyway.

Nice job matching everything up.:thumbsup:


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## GMF (Jan 10, 2004)

Have an extra one you'd be willing to sell? I'm one short... ;-)


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

Looking good! It is so nice to be able to crank out little stuff like this when you need to!

Pinguwin, are you still in Argentina?


----------



## robinmbers (Dec 14, 2012)

Yeah, that occurred to me before posting it. Sorry, I'm not taking orders.


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## pinguwin (Aug 20, 2004)

I don't have any metalworking machinery myself rather I have complete access to a professional machine shop. I had some custom CNC work done on a Bontrager fork crown to accomodate the Comp fork legs. These guy do a lot of work with bicycles. We say of our bikes, "That's a '90 model." These guys do too, but they mean 1890. I had them do a little more work for me and they said, "We allow cyclists to come in on the weekends and use the shop." I replied, "I don't know how to machine." They said that wasn't a problem and taught me a ton of stuff. 

I can go in anytime I feel like weekday or weekend and use all their machines as long as they don't need it for their work. Anytime I need help on how to figure out how to do something, these guys will spend the time and don't even charge me for materials, wear on cutters, etc. They just love to see bike stuff being made.

That said, I didn't tilt the head on the mill as they said it takes too much time to get it back perfectly vertical. I was poking around their shelves and remembered they have a ton of precision blocks, cylinders, and wedges. So, I used the wedges to get the angle right while the mill's cutter was still vertical.

I don't do as much as I want on the CNC machine as they would have to spend time making sure I get it right and don't run the cutter into the vise or some such and also, it's usually in use with their work that actually keeps the lights on. 

I've got some other stuff I'll be posting soon. I'm currently working on some ideas for taking some art work I generate on the computer and having some fun on the CNC machine. Hmmm, I wonder if I could....

I am back from Argentina, for better or for worse. I lived with a woman for a year there and miss her a lot. When I got back a friend said, "Your not with her. Let me guess, one word: Kids." "Yep." Sigh....


----------



## chefmiguel (Dec 22, 2007)

Hang in there buddy, we've got women on this side of the world too.


----------



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*Hang Me*


----------



## hollister (Sep 16, 2005)

Something that's always bugged me...

Why not key it?


----------



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*Because the forks don't have keys?*


----------



## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Are those Taperlew hangers?


----------



## Boy named SSue (Jan 7, 2004)

hollister said:


> Something that's always bugged me...
> 
> Why not key it?


What's the benefit of keying them? I was always told that the benefit was slim and it was possible to mess up the threading on the fork if the hanger gets knocked in a crash.


----------



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

*Phil!*


----------



## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

Boy named SSue said:


> What's the benefit of keying them? I was always told that the benefit was slim and it was possible to mess up the threading on the fork if the hanger gets knocked in a crash.


I hate when non-keyed cable hangers twist when adjusting the headset... But before cable hangers I'd have to guess it was there to help the headset stay in adjustment?

It just occured to me that its purpose was to keep the OEM front reflectors facing straight ahead.


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Old pic DC or new stash?


----------



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

New stash.


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Score!! What builders are on the list?


----------



## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

*What nothing new been built in the past 2 years?*

I stumbled across this slumbering thread while researching dirt drop shifter mount options (DKG and of course WTB). Maybe a newer post will revive it and see what people have been up too. Unfortunately I can not add to the list, but maybe someday. In either case, in a typical quest for the WTB shifter mounts......anyone tackle those recently? I asked a metal worker/machinist person I know here in the Bay Area, but he's really an artist, and said of my request to make a pair of shifter mounts "I only do that kinda stuff if I absolutely have to" meaning rent is due. In either case, DC, Classen or others anyone planning on making a batch of those? Cheers and love the great work!


----------



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

View attachment 1111341
Not a lot of vintage parts fab lately from me. Maybe soon.

Here are some small things that got modified or completed or made to work.









































View attachment 1111341


----------



## Mr. Claus (Oct 5, 2015)

Nice looking little tid-bits, more delicate work I suppose. Are the last 2 pics various brass cable ferrules? Cheers


----------



## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

Mr. Claus said:


> Nice looking little tid-bits, more delicate work I suppose. Are the last 2 pics various brass cable ferrules? Cheers


Step ferrules for early Ritchey bikes.


----------



## DFA (Jan 26, 2004)

FFB


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Yeah ^ I'm going to need a description at what I'm seeing there. Hope disc with some kind of brake jack bar, possibly?


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## 70sSanO (Nov 20, 2013)

DFA said:


> FFB


Cool! A traction bar... well to be more specific, a brake bar, but the same principle. Opposite direction of force, but works the same.

John


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## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

DIRTJUNKIE said:


> Yeah ^ I'm going to need a description at what I'm seeing there.





70sSanO said:


> Cool! A traction bar.


Yeah, you know - like Pontiac used to install at the factory, but Chevy didn't... Mr. GTO man!


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## hud56 (Nov 9, 2008)

CRG Research Report - 1967 Camaro Radius Rods Umm...Beg to differ on that Poncho..


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## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

hud56 said:


> CRG Research Report - 1967 Camaro Radius Rods Umm...Beg to differ on that Poncho..


Ok, Ok. You got me. _Some_ Camaros had them... on ONE side only.

Meant mostly to rib @DIRTJUNKIE over his avatar.

Not that I don't like it, because Poncho I am, and always have been.


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## hud56 (Nov 9, 2008)

Ha ! Just joshin' ya... They don't call 'em G.O.A.T.'s fer nuttin' Happy Trail's


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

iamkeith said:


> Ok, Ok. You got me. _Some_ Camaros had them... on ONE side only.
> 
> Meant mostly to rib @DIRTJUNKIE over his avatar.
> 
> Not that I don't like it, because Poncho I am, and always have been.


And mine still had serious wheel hop. 
1969 Ram Air IV

Old photos taken in 1983.


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## BStrummin (Nov 17, 2009)

A GTO in the snow? That sounds like an interesting experience.


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## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

BStrummin said:


> A GTO in the snow? That sounds like an interesting experience.


A limited slip differential and syped tires did wonders for winter driveability. And, if you were like me, the car was just for the "big" trips because you couldn't afford gas. Your bike got you everywhere else. Here's a geeky, younger me in 1988, headed back to Montana after Christmas break:









Sorry I derailed your thread so badly, DC. Two of my favorite subjects combined, and I can't help myself. Carry on...


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

iamkeith said:


> A limited slip differential and syped tires did wonders for winter driveability. And, if you were like me, the car was just for the "big" trips because you couldn't afford gas. Your bike got you everywhere else. Here's a geeky, younger me in 1988, headed back to Montana after Christmas break:
> 
> View attachment 1111974
> 
> ...


Nice bird ^

I was the same, take note of the photos of my goat from back in the day. It sits in my parents driveway at the top of a mountain in Colorado. A dirt road that went straight up. Needless to say that car often ended up parked at the bottom during the winter. But there were a few times I made it half way up and was spinning so bad I wasn't going any further. I cranked a 180 degree spin and went back down. Once ending up in the ditch. Two tow truck companies turned me down when they saw the show car paint job. They didn't want to take the responsibility of damaging it. The third company went for it and pulled it out sideways. Didn't even end up with a scratch even though the whole side of the car was 2" from touching the dirt. I finally got smart and bought a Chevy Vega as a winter car and parked the goat.

Sorry I "also" derailed your thread so badly, DC. Two of my favorite subjects combined, and I can't help myself. Carry on...


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## DoubleCentury (Nov 12, 2005)

iamkeith said:


> Sorry I derailed your thread so badly, DC. Two of my favorite subjects combined, and I can't help myself. Carry on...


Ha! List off the names of the vintage bikes on the roof and it's all good.


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

And I'm trying to figure out which ski area that is.


iamkeith said:


> A limited slip differential and syped tires did wonders for winter driveability. And, if you were like me, the car was just for the "big" trips because you couldn't afford gas. Your bike got you everywhere else. Here's a geeky, younger me in 1988, headed back to Montana after Christmas break:
> 
> View attachment 1111974
> 
> ...


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## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

Pic is in Jackson Hole, where I grew up. There's actually a small ski hill around the corner in the background, but you can't quite see it. Bike is nothing special - just a new Stumpjumper, with a U-brake. Couldn't afford the high end stuff at the time. 

Funny how things change. Neat old cars with personality could be had fairly inexpensively if you were willing to put in a bit of effort, while those new-fangled, cutting-edge, hand-made mountain bikes seemed really expensive by contrast. 

Restoration hadn't become a big thing yet - or at least these weren't considered classic enough yet - and reproduction parts didn't exist. Nowadays, 60s muscle car values have gone through the roof, so classic old bikes now provide my hobby fix and seem like such a comparative bargain.

I wish I had pictures of all the pieces I had to fabricate in order to salvage that car and get it running. Would have been a great way to redeem myself and tie this thread back together....


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Snow King? Could be the coldest I've ever been. 


iamkeith said:


> Pic is in Jackson Hole, where I grew up. There's actually a small ski hill around the corner in the background, but you can't quite see it. Bike is nothing special - just a new Stumpjumper, with a U-brake. Couldn't afford the high end stuff at the time.
> 
> Funny how things change. Neat old cars with personality could be had fairly inexpensively if you were willing to put in a bit of effort, while those new-fangled, cutting-edge, hand-made mountain bikes seemed really expensive by contrast.
> 
> ...


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## iamkeith (Feb 5, 2010)

jeff said:


> Snow King? Could be the coldest I've ever been.


Yup. It's below zero again now. Hoping it warms up by new year's eve: 
NYE Fireworks & Torchlight Parade ? Snow King Mountain


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Not a bad place to grow up I'd say. I was engaged to woman from Driggs. I spent a ton of time on both sides of the pass from 99-02.


iamkeith said:


> Yup. It's below zero again now. Hoping it warms up by new year's eve:
> NYE Fireworks & Torchlight Parade ? Snow King Mountain


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