# Best dropper remote??



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

As the tittle says what's your favorite dropper remote & why? I run a single ring & plan to run my remote under the bar shifter style.

Also, are the raceface & easton droppers identical or are there differences as I see the Easton sells for $50 cheaper?

I plan to run one or the other for my new build. 
Anybody like the raceface 1x remote?


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## unaware (Sep 22, 2012)

Not a fan of those lever type remotes. I actually use a fork lockout as the switch is pretty small and it replaces the clamp on he grip so it takes up minimal space.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

I like the idea of the remote being small clean & out of the way, but I have big hands. My hands are wider than my grips and don't like them contacting anything. Also, ergonomically, working a lever with my thumb puts it about 1.5" away from my grip. With all that said I will still check one out at the bike shop before I decide.


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## RIfreeDE (Dec 2, 2004)

Go to 9point8.ca....not only the best dropper...Fall Line (design RF and Easton are licensing) but the best lever.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Giant contact 2016 is great, it can run internal and external routing. The downsides of it is that it is not user serviceable and the lever is the old school type (not the shifter type). It can go very low in the frame, but most frames have a problem with that at 440mm post (which is typical for 150mm dropper).


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

I've been using I-spec front shifters for dropper remotes. Can't beat the ergonomics and not having to add a clamp...


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## madstace (Jul 23, 2008)

SRAM X9 front shifter. Why? It technically cost me nothing and I got to "make" it myself.


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

I like the supplied remote with the KS Lev. Mine is set at an angle, and very easy to push forward or down, depending on whether I'm seated and lowering, or standing and raising, the seat.


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## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

KS Southpaw.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

This lever from Crank Brothers has me most interested.

I have a RF one. It is really hard to push with my previously injured thumb. Cable tension got loose over-time, to the point I can't tighten it up any more with the barrel (just living with slow rise for now, and a remote that engages after almost 10mm of cable movement). Noodle thingee fits kind of loose in it. I like the KS (non-southpaw) better.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Varaxis said:


> This lever from Crank Brothers has me most interested.
> 
> I have a RF one. It is really hard to push with my previously injured thumb. Cable tension got loose over-time, to the point I can't tighten it up any more with the barrel (just living with slow rise for now, and a remote that engages after almost 10mm of cable movement). Noodle thingee fits kind of loose in it. I like the KS (non-southpaw) better.


Hey Varaxis, thanks fo the input. Are you speaking to the turbine 1X "hop up" lever or the stock one?

That crank brothers lever looks very well done indeed. Which one is it? Looks like a refinement on the kronolog


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## Davidfs (Feb 18, 2016)

My stock KS lever just broke at the clamp, so I'm looking for a new lever as well. KS's Southpaw, the 9point8 ThumB, and the Race Face Turbine lever are the three I'm leaning towards, obviously the Southpaw is half the price of the others but it seems to have clamping issues... 
Looks like crank brothers has several varieties, but I can't find them available sans post?


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## RIfreeDE (Dec 2, 2004)

I have installed two south paws...design of clamp sucks. New one comes with two double sided pieces of tape that may help it stay put on an aluminum bar but didn't work on carbon. Use carbon paste, torque to 3nm and call it a day. I have the 9point8....much nicer...better engineered.


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## PhillipJ (Aug 23, 2013)

I like the standard KS lever that replaces an inner lockring. The Nukeproof Oklo remote is similar and quite a lot cheaper if you need a replacement.


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## Davidfs (Feb 18, 2016)

PhillipJ said:


> I like the standard KS lever that replaces an inner lockring. The Nukeproof Oklo remote is similar and quite a lot cheaper if you need a replacement.


Is the nukeproof lever available separately? I cannot find it...


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

The Specialized, SLR, if I recall correctly. Looks and feels very much like a SRAM shifter. Very easy, smooth action with the Spec IR dropper post.

This a good thread. Lever feel/ergonomics/ease of actuation, is as important as the post itself.

Some levers are really hard to push. I drop my post as much as I shift gears. Wish more attention was given to this aspect of dropper posts.


How is the feel of the lever on the 9 Point 8? Easy throw or a hard push?

Also any reviews on the 9 Point 8's "thumb lever" vs their nifty looking "trigger lever" ?


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Miker J said:


> The Specialized, SLR, if I recall correctly. Looks and feels very much like a SRAM shifter. Very easy, smooth action with the Spec IR dropper post.
> 
> This a good thread. Lever feel/ergonomics/ease of actuation, is as important as the post itself.
> 
> ...


The specialized slr looks damn nice. If I don't find a nicer one I'm going with that.


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## Davidfs (Feb 18, 2016)

I think it's designed to mount to a sram brake lever, so you may need an adapter as well


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## RIfreeDE (Dec 2, 2004)

I have the thumb lever positioned like a shifter....works awesome...feel is more natural than my xtr shifter.


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## PhillipJ (Aug 23, 2013)

Davidfs said:


> Is the nukeproof lever available separately? I cannot find it...


I bought one from CRC: Nukeproof OKLO Seatpost Remote and Cable Kit | Chain Reaction Cycles to use with a KS i950.

It's not quite as nice as the KS remote but you can put it on without taking grips off which is handy.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

The specialized is excellent. It is exactly the shape of a sram shifter. It may actually use a sram lever.


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## IntenseMack10 (May 16, 2006)

Great thread. 

I paid extra to get the southpaw for my Lev and hated it. As others have said the clamping is terrible, and it could do with a small spring to prevent it from rattling when cable tensions are lower. It's funny brcause I raised these issues in a PB thread and was wholly down voted. I thought I was the only one who disliked it (but it is PB so there's that)

In its place I got the Specialized SLR. Functionally, it is awesome, but it's overpriced and unless you've got matchmaker clamps already you need to spend extra for a clamp (which I did). 

Also, and this is kinda a lame complaint on my part, but the angle of the design puts it rotated far away from my brake lever and I think the big gap between the 2 looks awkward. Like I said, kinda lame complaint. 

But overall the SLR is a great lever. Just try not to pay full price for one.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

The issue I'm going t o have with my next bike is that I'm going to run a 2x11, which means I need a design that works well with a front shift.

On my 1x bikes I run the SLR, but that will be a no go with a shifter.

Main reason I went to a 1x is to free up space for a dropper lever.


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## trailwerks (Aug 24, 2007)

IntenseMack10 said:


> Great thread.
> 
> I paid extra to get the southpaw for my Lev and hated it. As others have said the clamping is terrible, and it could do with a small spring to prevent it from rattling when cable tensions are lower. It's funny brcause I raised these issues in a PB thread and was wholly down voted. I thought I was the only one who disliked it (but it is PB so there's that)
> 
> ...


I hear you on the specialized remote. Run one on mine and wife's bike and the angle drives me nuts. I'm very anal about wire management. You can kinda see the unruly angle in this photo.


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## micky (Jan 28, 2004)

While I know the xfusion is not the best product....I really like the joystick lever.


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## Hextall (Nov 25, 2013)

I have the 9point8 pulse dropper, and started out with the thumb remote, but moved to the brake lever trigger style and like it tons more. I have a Scott Genius, so the left side of my handlebars are reserved for the twinlock system. Their thumb switch is actually pretty versatile, and can go left right, up or to the side. Their trigger style can go on the left or right side. I do have to take my finger off the rear brake to use the dropper, but I haven't found that to be too big an issue when I want drop or raise the post.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Hextall said:


> I have the 9point8 pulse dropper, and started out with the thumb remote, but moved to the brake lever trigger style and like it tons more. I have a Scott Genius, so the left side of my handlebars are reserved for the twinlock system. Their thumb switch is actually pretty versatile, and can go left right, up or to the side. Their trigger style can go on the left or right side. I do have to take my finger off the rear brake to use the dropper, but I haven't found that to be too big an issue when I want drop or raise the post.


Cool. Thanks.

Some droppers require a lot of force on the lever, some very little. Any word on were you think the 9.8 falls on the spectrum?

As I use the dropper so much this makes a big difference to me and weighs in on whether or not I stick with the Spec IR.


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## Hextall (Nov 25, 2013)

Miker J said:


> Some droppers require a lot of force on the lever, some very little. Any word on were you think the 9.8 falls on the spectrum?


Well... I don't really have anything to compare it to, but I'd have to say probably on the higher force side. But mainly because the 9.8 pulse post I have has a step function in that a little squeeze and it'll drop 5 cm.... pull tighter and it'll drop all the way. so that extra pull to get it past the step drops probably makes it require slightly more force. That's just a guess though.

Oh, and I never ever ever ever use the step wise dropping. for me it's either up or down all the way.


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## cchough (Apr 26, 2006)

Great stuff on this thread - the little details are so critical for a positive user experience, it's amazing that these companies don't spend more time sweating the small stuff on such expensive parts!

My Thomson Covert is a great example. That post is a work of art - great action, no wiggle, solid as a rigid post but... the lever feel sucks (way too stiff) and I really wish that the cable of the Thomson remote lever exited parallel to the bars rather than pointing straight ahead like it does. Any ideas? Otherwise, I might buy the SLR remote.


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## jgdblue (Apr 24, 2015)

I'm not crazy about the button for my Reverb Stealth, but having said that I've gotten used to it and it works fine.

I do like the looks of the remotes for the new Bontrager Line and Crank Bros droppers.


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## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

Miker J said:


> Cool. Thanks.
> 
> Some droppers require a lot of force on the lever, some very little. Any word on were you think the 9.8 falls on the spectrum?
> 
> As I use the dropper so much this makes a big difference to me and weighs in on whether or not I stick with the Spec IR.


The levers from 9point8 (as well as those from RaceFace and Easton) are designed with a higher than typical leverage ratio meaning less lever force but more distance to push the lever. This is due to mechanics of the posts requiring the lever to do more work than just open a simple hydraulic valve. For example I've tried a Spec SLR lever on a 9point8 Fall Line but found the lever force very high with this combination.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Hextall said:


> Well... I don't really have anything to compare it to, but I'd have to say probably on the higher force side. But mainly because the 9.8 pulse post I have has a step function in that a little squeeze and it'll drop 5 cm.... pull tighter and it'll drop all the way. so that extra pull to get it past the step drops probably makes it require slightly more force. That's just a guess though.
> 
> Oh, and I never ever ever ever use the step wise dropping. for me it's either up or down all the way.


That's a very good point. However, just visually comparing the 9point8/race face 1X/ and srl, the lever length and fulcrum appear to be very similar. One, would think the non shifter style (like KS) which race face also uses would then be very hard as they have little to no mechanical leverage.

Can any body else comment on this?


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## Davidfs (Feb 18, 2016)

I should be able to in about a week, my stock ks lever broke and I'm replacing it with the ks southpaw (getting it from my lbs at cost) so I'll let you know if the styles themselves make a noticeable difference


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## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

WHALENARD said:


> That's a very good point. However, just visually comparing the 9point8/race face 1X/ and srl, the lever length and fulcrum appear to be very similar. One, would think the non shifter style (like KS) which race face also uses would then be very hard as they have little to no mechanical leverage.
> 
> Can any body else comment on this?


For comparison:
9point8 ThumB: 36mm lever arm length with a 3:1 leverage ratio
9point8 Trigger: 53mm lever arm length with a 3.1:1 leverage ratio
RaceFace 1x lever: 65mm lever arm length with a 4.3:1 leverage ratio
Spec SLR: 57mm lever arm length with a 2.4:1 leverage ratio

The lever arm lengths are about to the middle of the pad.

Can't help with the dimension of other brands.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

JackP42 said:


> For comparison:
> 9point8 ThumB: 36mm lever arm length with a 3:1 leverage ratio
> 9point8 Trigger: 53mm lever arm length with a 3.1:1 leverage ratio
> RaceFace 1x lever: 65mm lever arm length with a 4.3:1 leverage ratio
> ...


That is some excellent info...thanks!
To bad the race face 1x bar mount is on ugly/untefined side of the design spectrom


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## getvert (May 5, 2010)

JackP42 said:


> The levers from 9point8 (as well as those from RaceFace and Easton) are designed with a higher than typical leverage ratio meaning less lever force but more distance to push the lever. This is due to mechanics of the posts requiring the lever to do more work than just open a simple hydraulic valve. For example I've tried a Spec SLR lever on a 9point8 Fall Line but found the lever force very high with this combination.


Also looking to run the Specialized Command Post SRL lever with my Easton Haven (9point8 Fall Line-style) dropper post. Besides the higher force required, *JackP42*, does the Specialized Command Post SRL lever function ok with your 9point8 Fall Line dropper? Like, is there enough adjustment in the SLR barrel adjuster to perform the cold weather adjustment procedure? I've had a hard time getting the free-play on my Easton Haven dropper dialed in. I can get it to work great when it's warm out, but once it gets cold the dropper brake mechanism gets cranky and the post slips down without enough free-play at the lever. There's a very small window in which to set the cable free-play at the post to allow post to function properly AND have room to adjust when it gets cold out and everything gets tight.


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## Davidfs (Feb 18, 2016)

Huh, I actually like the race face quite a lot, it fits well with their other turbine products, kind of an industrial look


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Davidfs said:


> Huh, I actually like the race face quite a lot, it fits well with their other turbine products, kind of an industrial look


It's not terrible per say...just a little bulky at the hinge. I'd prefer to use the spesh SRL as I could mount it to my brake for a very clean set up. Seems the leverage ratio of the raceface may make for easier operation though


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## Davidfs (Feb 18, 2016)

Yeah the spec. Is nice looking for sure but I have shimano brakes so it's a no go for me


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Actually with mismatch makers (or whatever they're called) you could


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## Davidfs (Feb 18, 2016)

Your are right I misspoke, I run shimano which means the specialized runs an extra ~$25 and isn't worth the premium to me


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## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

getvert said:


> Also looking to run the Specialized Command Post SRL lever with my Easton Haven (9point8 Fall Line-style) dropper post. Besides the higher force required, *JackP42*, does the Specialized Command Post SRL lever function ok with your 9point8 Fall Line dropper? Like, is there enough adjustment in the SLR barrel adjuster to perform the cold weather adjustment procedure? I've had a hard time getting the free-play on my Easton Haven dropper dialed in. I can get it to work great when it's warm out, but once it gets cold the dropper brake mechanism gets cranky and the post slips down without enough free-play at the lever. There's a very small window in which to set the cable free-play at the post to allow post to function properly AND have room to adjust when it gets cold out and everything gets tight.


The Spec SRL lever has more than enough travel for a 9point8/RaceFace/Easton post, but I found the lever force higher than I preferred with the SRL. Others may feel it is acceptable. I have no issues with the 9point8 lever and like that it is compact. The new RF 1x hop up lever works quite nice though with the lower effort.

As for the barrel adjuster, the 9point8, SRL and 1x hop up are similar, the RF/Easton universal remote with the inline adjuster has less adjusting range in comparison.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

JackP42 said:


> The Spec SRL lever has more than enough travel for a 9point8/RaceFace/Easton post, but I found the lever force higher than I preferred with the SRL. Others may feel it is acceptable. I have no issues with the 9point8 lever and like that it is compact. The new RF 1x hop up lever works quite nice though with the lower effort.
> 
> As for the barrel adjuster, the 9point8, SRL and 1x hop up are similar, the RF/Easton universal remote with the inline adjuster has less adjusting range in comparison.


For those looking at the SLR, it is very good, and I've got 2 of them but both are run on Spec dropper posts.

Both my posts are 30.9 and my new frame is a 31.6, and I don't want to shim it.

The more I think about it, I'll likely just stay with the Spec Dropper. Their IR version, whether using the SLR lever or their traditional lever has a very smooth and easy throw. The main reason I'm looking at the 9.8 is the 150mm would be nice but likely not at necessary on this frame I'm getting.

I'm looking for a 31.6 diameter, 125 drop, IR version (not the IRCC) if any one knows where I can find one.


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## HoldenSierra (Apr 5, 2016)

I have the southpaw. When the lever slid on my carbon bar, I sent an email to KS, and this was the response:

"Please be sure there is anti-seize on the thread of the titanium bolt as it will seem like you have a lot of torque on the bolt, but in fact it is partially seizing on the aluminum. The anti seize will allow you to torque the bolt to 5nm.

Also you can apply friction paste around the clamping surface to keep it from slipping."

After following these instructions the southpaw is staying put.


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## Davidfs (Feb 18, 2016)

HoldenSierra said:


> I have the southpaw. When the lever slid on my carbon bar, I sent an email to KS, and this was the response:
> 
> "Please be sure there is anti-seize on the thread of the titanium bolt as it will seem like you have a lot of torque on the bolt, but in fact it is partially seizing on the aluminum. The anti seize will allow you to torque the bolt to 5nm.
> 
> ...


That's good to know thanks! I was thinking on putting a little grip tape or similar on my bars under the clamp, what friction paste did you use?


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## HoldenSierra (Apr 5, 2016)

Davidfs said:


> what friction paste did you use?


Finish line fiber grip: http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-B...1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

He told me they used a copper-based anti sieze so I used a bit of this: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-38650...i seize copper&qid=1461092595&ref_=sr_ph&sr=1

That jar will likely last me 2 lifetimes.


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## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

^ have done the same with my southpaw from new and never had it slip.


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## Crossmaxx (Dec 2, 2008)

This one rocks (and so does the Yep Components Uptimizer dropper by the way). Why, you might wonder? Well, apart from the light weight and utter simplicity, I have my remote installed so that the joystick actuator is at 6 o'clock looking from the side of the bar, allowing me to use both my thumb and my index finger to control my dropper. And as a matter of fact, I've noticed that I actually take advantage of this by dropping the seatpost with my thumb and extending it with the index finger.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Crossmaxx said:


> This one rocks (and so does the Yep Components Uptimizer dropper by the way). Why, you might wonder? Well, apart from the light weight and utter simplicity, I have my remote installed so that the joystick actuator is at 6 o'clock looking from the side of the bar, allowing me to use both my thumb and my index finger to control my dropper. And as a matter of fact, I've noticed that I actually take advantage of this by dropping the seatpost with my thumb and extending it with the index finger.


I poked around on their web site & I like what I see. Clever, well thought out, and high quality. I especially like that you can buy every individual part. Do you know of any retailers in the states?


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## sl1_matt (Apr 12, 2009)

I had the KS aluminum thumb remote, then the KS carbon remote and now on to the Thomson thumb remote. It's quite easy even with a fair bit of arthritis in my left thumb. If you're complaining about how hard these droppers are to engage while riding because of a long throw, you should probably go back to the creek trails.


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## ckim12 (Jan 12, 2010)

I also have the Thompson dropper. I got this nice add on from ReMount MM ? Lindarets. It allows my remote to lay parallel to my bar like a normal shifter. They have several models that are stand alone or hook up with matchmaker or some Shimano style clamps. I have SRAM guide brakes 1x11 and have the matchmaker version of the remount. Looks nice. Makes it look clean, cables lie better, and easier to actuate. The Race Face and new Crank Brothers clamp does look nice though.


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## Crossmaxx (Dec 2, 2008)

WHALENARD said:


> I poked around on their web site & I like what I see. Clever, well thought out, and high quality. I especially like that you can buy every individual part. Do you know of any retailers in the states?


Sorry, I live in Sweden so I can't offer any help regarding US retailers. Ask them on Facebook or send them an e-mail, they are usually quick to reply. But you're right on the money with your remarks, the whole post is really high quality, and features some smart solutions (the remote being one, the quick installation/removal of the externally routed version is another one). I've been riding mine for 9 months and I haven't done a single thing to it, and so far it's performing flawlessly. It requires really light action to be dropped (due to using a lower air pressure than other dropper posts), and extends just quickly enough. I've ridden it down to -5C (23 F) without noticing any change in performance.


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## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

WHALENARD said:


> I poked around on their web site & I like what I see. Clever, well thought out, and high quality. I especially like that you can buy every individual part. Do you know of any retailers in the states?


That looks really similar to the XFusion BAT remote (available directly from XFusion in the US). I ran one on my Thomson post for a while, and I liked it better than the Thomson remote, but I like the KS Southpaw way better.

The BAT remote has a much lighter action, if that's your thing, but requires more lever throw as a tradeoff.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Shimano XT front shifter. Easy to modify, and it works great!


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## CactusJackSlade (Apr 11, 2006)

What about the Turbine Lever from Race Face? It looks a lot like the Command Post SRL from Specialized

Maybe I missed it in the thread but I like the looks of these?... I did see the Specialized one at Sea Otter last week and it looked very clean... I wish I would have taken the time to try out how it felt...


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## CactusJackSlade (Apr 11, 2006)

Just ordered a Turbine..... we will see....


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## brentos (May 19, 2006)

By far, my favorite dropper setup and remote is my Thomson paired with a hacked X.0 2 speed front shifter. I just dremelled off the teeth on the the internal ratchet.

What's nice is that I can quickly get the post exactly where I want it. I liked my Reverb until I tried this setup, now it just seems sluggish.

The Thomson with the stock remote was my least favorite setup, it was terrible.



cchough said:


> Great stuff on this thread - the little details are so critical for a positive user experience, it's amazing that these companies don't spend more time sweating the small stuff on such expensive parts!
> 
> My Thomson Covert is a great example. That post is a work of art - great action, no wiggle, solid as a rigid post but... the lever feel sucks (way too stiff) and I really wish that the cable of the Thomson remote lever exited parallel to the bars rather than pointing straight ahead like it does. Any ideas? Otherwise, I might buy the SLR remote.


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## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

Miker J said:


> The Specialized, SLR, if I recall correctly. Looks and feels very much like a SRAM shifter. Very easy, smooth action with the Spec IR dropper post.
> 
> This a good thread. Lever feel/ergonomics/ease of actuation, is as important as the post itself.
> 
> ...


I like the 9.8 thumb b remote. Being able to mount it vertically or horizontally is a nice touch. It does require more force to actuate than I would prefer though. Luckily you don't have to push it very far. The nicest remote I have used is a modified shift lever.


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## monts (May 24, 2011)

I just got the 9 point 8 thumb lever! Well built and extremely versatile with options. 

I haven't noticed it requiring a lot of force but I just got the post the other day and only used it on one ride.


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## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

I've got a few XTR SL-M970 shift levers lying around from my 1x conversions.

I looked at all the posts and decided to convert one into a seatpost lever. It was quite easy to pry up one of the plates to remove the spring and pawl (ratcheting mechanism). I opted to drill out a bolt to remove the return lever instead of simply cutting it off.

Worked out great:

14 by tk_1971, on Flickr


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## HillDancer (Dec 10, 2012)

9point8 remote with 1X adapter. Low lever effort, short throw, more than one mounting option, compact.


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

I just replaced my stock Command Post lever with a Race Face Turbine 1X. I have no complaints whatsoever with it. It does have a long throw, but that's more a function of the actuator on the seatpost itself. I was able to shorten it quite a bit by compressing the actuator before tightening the cable barrel clamp. Very easy and smooth lever feel.


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

MikeBurnsie said:


> I just replaced my stock Command Post lever with a Race Face Turbine 1X. I have no complaints whatsoever with it. It does have a long throw, but that's more a function of the actuator on the seatpost itself. I was able to shorten it quite a bit by compressing the actuator before tightening the cable barrel clamp. Very easy and smooth lever feel.


not sure I understood the issue with the "long throw"

isn't that stressing the spring on the seatpost actuator, does it have enough force to pull back the cable?


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

The remote itself has a long throw, range of motion. I didn't like that it was so long but was able to shorten it. I probably should've said that I was able to remove about 4mm of slack from the cable by pressing down on the actuator until it put tension on the inner cable, resulting in a shorter remote throw. If I would have just tightened the barrel clamp without putting tension on the inner cable I would have to push the remote further than I would have liked. I works like a champ. Short push on the remote and returns with no problems.


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## lukas1 (Nov 14, 2014)

Now I need to replace this SPec lever from Command Post, and also thingiong about this Race Pace or Easton, thought about new Specialzed but is only for mount to be attache to other clamp, Race Face and Easton has own clamps.

Guys so RF or Easton should work with no issues with Specilized Command post Black lite ?

ps where in EU can I buy this RF lever I can see any availability in known shops


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## lukas1 (Nov 14, 2014)

I allreday removed fron shifter and for 1x10 so XT brake and dropper


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

madstace said:


> SRAM X9 front shifter. Why? It technically cost me nothing and I got to "make" it myself.


I had a gutted X7 shifter and really liked it. Sold it with an old dropper though. Right now I am using the Specialized SRL and really like it.


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## lukas1 (Nov 14, 2014)

same problem I have with that mount I dont like to spent extra money for Problem solvers adapter or KCNC or similar if RF or Eastan has everything in one piece( lever+clamp)


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

lukas1 said:


> View attachment 1066753
> 
> 
> Now I need to replace this SPec lever from Command Post, and also thingiong about this Race Pace or Easton, thought about new Specialzed but is only for mount to be attache to other clamp, Race Face and Easton has own clamps.
> ...


I replaced the same Spec remote with a RF Turbine. I'm running 1X so I had no issues mounting it. I see your running a shifter, I'm not sure how that would fit on your bar.







[


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## lukas1 (Nov 14, 2014)

no no shifter is out now  and 32toval ring is waitnig , new sunrace casette 11-40 on the way to me


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## lukas1 (Nov 14, 2014)

plus Im grounded now :-(


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

lukas1 said:


> no no shifter is out now  and 32toval ring is waitnig , new sunrace casette 11-40 on the way to me


Does your current remote have the barrel adjuster in line with the cable? Mine did, the RF has the adjuster at the remote. You should have no problems running a RF.


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## lukas1 (Nov 14, 2014)

yes I have barrel adjuster in middle way more or less


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## lukas1 (Nov 14, 2014)

so I will have 2 adjusters now? on lever and on calble or I need new cable?


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

lukas1 said:


> so I will have 2 adjusters now? on lever and on calble or I need new cable?


You can use both.


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

lukas1 said:


> so I will have 2 adjusters now? on lever and on calble or I need new cable?


I had some housing laying around, so I just ran a new one. The RF comes with a new cable.


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## lukas1 (Nov 14, 2014)

so Green RF is coming to me after weekend


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

lukas1 said:


> View attachment 1066753
> 
> 
> Now I need to replace this SPec lever from Command Post, and also thingiong about this Race Pace or Easton, thought about new Specialzed but is only for mount to be attache to other clamp, Race Face and Easton has own clamps.
> ...


Never mind, I see you are going to remove the front shifter.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Building my bike up now and got my RF 1x lever. For those interested the RF 1x lever has a separate clamp as in you can remove just the lever mechanism from the clamp. It's not a perfect fit but one could easily run just the lever with a matchmaker like the spesh srl lever by either using a longer bolt and some some shims/washers or maybe a little creative dremeling. I don't feel the lever has excessive throw whatsoever...very nice


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

thanks everyone for info.
could you please (if known) post a links to stores (with international shipping) with your levers?...

wanted to buy 9.8 but shipping price from official site is about 50$. damn too much.. ((


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Can somebody please make some kind of list with all existing remote levers with horizontal (parallel to handlebar) position?
like:
name - official link - photo (if possible - online sale wit worldwide shipping)

KS Southpaw
Specialized Command Post SRL
9point8 ThumB


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## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

Updated:

9point8 ThumB:

https://9point8.ca/index.php/products/parts/product/37-thumb-remote









Crank Bros kronolog:

https://www.crankbrothers.com/accessories_kronolog-remote









Easton 1X:

https://www.eastoncycling.com/products/details/1x-dropper-lever

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=76453&category=167









Fox D.O.S.S

FOX D.O.S.S. Adjustable Seatpost









KS Southpaw:

SOUTHPAW | KS Suspension

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=69278









Race Face Turbine Dropper 1x lever:

Product Details - Race Face

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=75267&category=167









Specialized SLR:

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/components/cockpit/command-post-srl/105103









X-Fusion BAT Remote:

Descriptions of the technology used in X Fusion Shox products


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

amish_matt said:


> Race Face 1x:


i guess the full name is Race Face Turbine Dropper 1X Llever

p.s. better for search index..


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

add to your post please - X-Fusion BAT remote lever
image - https://www.xfusionshox.com/images/products/2014hilo125/hilo-125-2.jpg
site - Descriptions of the technology used in X Fusion Shox products


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

add please to your post - Fox Racing Shox D.O.S.S. Remote Lever
img - https://www.bike24.com/i/p/3/0/105803_00_d.jpg
site (archive) - FOX D.O.S.S. Adjustable Seatpost

I know it is not a simple lever, but maybe it has some simple mode


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

by the way, for buyers on eurasia the smallest price for KS Southpaw now - 25,17 €	
Kind Shock Remote-Up Southpaw | Seatpost - Accessories Shop

as for 9point8 - I personally can't fin it anywhere (((
To buy from official site its too expensive for shipping.


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

amish_matt said:


> Easton 1X:
> 
> https://www.eastoncycling.com/products/details/1x-dropper-lever
> 
> ...


does anyone know which lever is the one you are gonna get? the one I see in several stores looks just like the RF lever, but the one on easton website looks different, and doesn't look as good as the RF, the thumb contact area is rounded and might not offer too much grip

the one on easton website looks like this


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

show the links to that remores..


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## DerrickT (Jun 10, 2004)

Does anyone know if the new Turbine/Easton/Southpaw KS levers work with SRAM GUIDE's matchmaker?

I have emailed them for support, but have not received a response.


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## jimarin (Mar 19, 2005)

DerrickT said:


> Does anyone know if the new Turbine/Easton/Southpaw KS levers work with SRAM GUIDE's matchmaker?
> 
> I have emailed them for support, but have not received a response.


Only one that will work matchmaker is the specialized. It uses the sram clamp.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

i understan they all for forks but may be thei will fit and seatposts..

https://www.dtswiss.com/Technology/Two-In-One-Remote-Lever

https://www.best-bike-parts.de/images/product_images/popup_images/15342-1.jpg

https://www.best-bike-parts.de/images/product_images/popup_images/15342-1.jpg

https://bikemagic.com/news/fox-raci...kout-forks-and-shock.html#dcdPKeVTkl11Qok6.97

Enduro Mag ? On Review: X-Fusion Sweep 27.5? Forks

https://forums.mtbr.com/scott-sports/2007-scott-spark-tracloc-remote-474312.html

https://www.scott-sports.com/ru/ru/technology/bike/Twinloc_Lever_System/


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

New Fox remote in Bellingham, Washington, United States - photo by mikekazimer - Pinkbike


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## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

I love the KS South Paw. I run it on a 9point8 Fall line. The fall line also has a great trigger, but the south paw has the better leverage and it tucks away so clean beneath the bars.


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## Davidfs (Feb 18, 2016)

After riding it for the last few weeks, I'm extremely happy with my southpaw as well, mounting was a little fidgety, but it's been great since. 

Although I really like the look of the new Fox post and its remote....


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

The new Fox looks good. I find Fox easy to deal with directly if there are issues.

Trigger feel is largely dependent on the post itself and the heft of pressure needed to actuate it. So far, Specialized is on top with their IRC post.

Reportedly the Fox is being designed with a lighter touch as well. On the other hand I hear they may just be using the 9.8 model, but I also hear that post does not have a very light lever throw.

I drop my post about as much as I shift so having a lever with a light touch is key.


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## sackmann (May 4, 2010)

You may check out this one:
Bike Yoke offers new shifter-style Triggy dropper post remote - Bikerumor

Cheers


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## rondre3000 (May 29, 2009)

All you need to use a KS style lever on a Transfer.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-3336-...468_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=D22QVC08SDWVWY0HW35V

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk


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## Cayenne_Pepa (Dec 18, 2007)

KS LEV DX......you can bang it with the palm of your hand(if numb) and it does its job.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

*PRO Koryak (Shimano)*

PRO Koryak (Shimano)










First Look: Shimano PRO Koryak Dropper Post


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## Davidfs (Feb 18, 2016)

But will the lever be available separately?


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## ziscwg (May 18, 2007)

RIfreeDE said:


> Go to 9point8.ca....not only the best dropper...Fall Line *(design RF and Easton are licensing)* but the best lever.


this was a good business move on 9point8s part. revenue with having to produce something in a market that is getting saturated.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Davidfs said:


> But will the lever be available separately?


Shimano said somewhere that there will be parts for service, so I assume if they are selling parts they will sell it as well.


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## Davidfs (Feb 18, 2016)

That makes sense, X Fusion just announced another one that will only be $200 msrp as well!


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## inonjoey (Jul 19, 2011)

HoldenSierra said:


> I have the southpaw. When the lever slid on my carbon bar, I sent an email to KS, and this was the response:
> 
> "Please be sure there is anti-seize on the thread of the titanium bolt as it will seem like you have a lot of torque on the bolt, but in fact it is partially seizing on the aluminum. The anti seize will allow you to torque the bolt to 5nm.
> 
> ...


Crap, I had no idea! I use aluminum bars (saw a bad carbon bar incident that scarred my psyche), but I'm hoping the anti seize will improve things. My southpaw slips like crazy and has already marred my brand new Chromag bar (arg). Will try this and see what happens.

My only other complaint with the Southpaw is the rattle when there is low cable tension (not a problem when I used it with Gravity Dropper, but, ironically, a problem when used with KS Lev). Current plan is just to use some cushioned tape to keep it quiet.


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## Gridlocked (Apr 6, 2011)

Any one tried the RF Turbine 1x remote with a Fox D.O.S.S dropper?
I managed to destroy my remote in the last crash, and the RF is more or less half the price.


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## swoodbrn (Oct 5, 2005)

tk1971 said:


> I've got a few XTR SL-M970 shift levers lying around from my 1x conversions.
> 
> I looked at all the posts and decided to convert one into a seatpost lever. It was quite easy to pry up one of the plates to remove the spring and pawl (ratcheting mechanism). I opted to drill out a bolt to remove the return lever instead of simply cutting it off.
> 
> ...


Do you have all that free throw before it actually engages the dropper mechanism? or does yours engage immediately on pushing the trigger? That is, after you retrofitted it.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I have my eyes on the new wolftooth remote. I will probably be getting one of those once they're available.


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## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

swoodbrn said:


> Do you have all that free throw before it actually engages the dropper mechanism? or does yours engage immediately on pushing the trigger? That is, after you retrofitted it.


It does have some free throw before engaging the mechanism. Not too much, and nor too little. It's easy to get used to.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## swoodbrn (Oct 5, 2005)

tk1971 said:


> It does have some free throw before engaging the mechanism. Not too much, and nor too little. It's easy to get used to.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


On mine it goes about 1/2 way then engaged. Was wondering if I screwed something up when I was modifying it.


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## ejbozlee (Sep 30, 2009)

Harold said:


> I have my eyes on the new wolftooth remote. I will probably be getting one of those once they're available.


Just ordered the wolftooth remote. hope it works as good as they say. im not a fan of stock dropper remotes. i've owned 4 droppers and it seems to me that all the remotes are hard to depress and sticky after some time.  maybe it's just me


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

wow! i am glad I came across this thread. had no idea Wolftooth made a remote and is compatible with Gravity Dropper, will be ordering one soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

ejbozlee said:


> Just ordered the wolftooth remote. hope it works as good as they say. im not a fan of stock dropper remotes. i've owned 4 droppers and it seems to me that all the remotes are hard to depress and sticky after some time.  maybe it's just me


EJ,

Thanks for your purchase! We're really, really excited about the ReMote and now that they're out in the world feedback has been fantastic. We listened to a ton of riders and mechanics and set out to address their complaints and ours- the local shop guys who build Yetis with internal routing and post-fastened cables all day are especially stoked.







With a massive 21mm sealed cartridge ball bearing pivot, the ReMote shouldn't get all sticky on you either.

Wolf Tooth has versions in stock for Shimano I-Spec A, B, and II as well as SRAM/Avid MatchMaker X. 22.2mm bar clamps are being cut now and should be available in ~3 weeks.

I really hope that you dig yours- and if not feel free to let us know what you'd change. Enjoy!

Marc


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

This thread may have stoked demand, tried ordering the remote that clamps to the bar this morning but out of stock. can't wait to try it out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

cjsb said:


> This thread may have stoked demand, tried ordering the remote that clamps to the bar this morning but out of stock. can't wait to try it out.


CJSB,
Thanks for your interest! 22.2mm bar clamps are being cut now and should be available in ~3 weeks.

Marc


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## andersonsmog (Oct 21, 2015)

Wish I had known wolf tooth was making a lever about a week ago. After my reverb failed for the third time I decided to buy a fall line and I also purchased a ks southpaw lever. What a POS that lever is, I tried everything to get it to hold on my bar and it would not, I even tried putting a bit of sand paper between the bar and lever. What a joke that lever is, anyways I just ordered a wolf tooth lever, I already have about 5 of their chainrings and they are all great so I'm sure this will be a win.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Friction(carbon) paste.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Marc Lindarets said:


> CJSB,
> Thanks for your interest! 22.2mm bar clamps are being cut now and should be available in ~3 weeks.
> 
> Marc


Right, on!! I am waiting.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

I picked up the Wolftooth ReMote last week, just one ride with it so far. I had a Southpaw previously.

I opted for the ispec mount, and it definitely fits perfectly. My main complaint is that I wish it had a bit more range of adjustment. I run my brake levers 7/8" inboard of my grips, and ride with my hands all the way on the outside of the grips. Adjusted as far outboard as it will go, it's still 1/8-1/4" farther inboard than I had my Southpaw. Fortunately, the texturing on the lever means good traction only with a finger tip, so no issues with slipping a finger so far. Maybe the separate bar clamp would give me the position I want.

The action is good. Compared to the Southpaw, it's lighter, requiring less effort, but less "crisp." I had my southpaw set so it was really firm, and the release was immediate. I haven't been able to achieve that with the ReMote yet, and it feels a little spongy by comparison. That's not noticeable when riding and in the zone, but it feels less "precise," for lack of a better term.

Installation and setup was a cinch, the cable clamp works perfectly, and is a nice change from a set screw.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

amish_matt said:


> I picked up the Wolftooth ReMote last week, just one ride with it so far. I had a Southpaw previously.
> 
> I opted for the ispec mount, and it definitely fits perfectly. My main complaint is that I wish it had a bit more range of adjustment. I run my brake levers 7/8" inboard of my grips, and ride with my hands all the way on the outside of the grips. Adjusted as far outboard as it will go, it's still 1/8-1/4" farther inboard than I had my Southpaw. Fortunately, the texturing on the lever means good traction only with a finger tip, so no issues with slipping a finger so far. Maybe the separate bar clamp would give me the position I want.
> 
> ...


Matt,
Thanks for your feedback! It's interesting- some folks want as light an action as possibly (usually from the Shimano school of thought) while others want a bit more feedback (the SRAM camp). I go back and forth on my own bikes- Fox's new Transfer has a much stiffer internal spring that KS's or Giant's, and changing between the two takes a bit of adjustment.
We'll take a look at the lever position re:Shimano brakes. The levers are so much shorter than Avid's that those took a lot of prototypes to get dialed. Maybe they need to scoot out a little further- it's something we'll keep an eye on. My personal preference is not to have anything hit the outside of my thumbs while riding, so I tend to err on the inboard side.
I'm glad that it's working well otherwise! Have fun out there,

Marc


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Marc Lindarets said:


> EJ,
> 
> Thanks for your purchase! We're really, really excited about the ReMote and now that they're out in the world feedback has been fantastic. We listened to a ton of riders and mechanics and set out to address their complaints and ours- the local shop guys who build Yetis with internal routing and post-fastened cables all day are especially stoked.
> View attachment 1098517
> ...


Just set up and used mine today with a Fox Transfer post and this lever is excellent.


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## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Matt,
> Thanks for your feedback! It's interesting- some folks want as light an action as possibly (usually from the Shimano school of thought) while others want a bit more feedback (the SRAM camp). I go back and forth on my own bikes- Fox's new Transfer has a much stiffer internal spring that KS's or Giant's, and changing between the two takes a bit of adjustment.
> We'll take a look at the lever position re:Shimano brakes. The levers are so much shorter than Avid's that those took a lot of prototypes to get dialed. Maybe they need to scoot out a little further- it's something we'll keep an eye on. My personal preference is not to have anything hit the outside of my thumbs while riding, so I tend to err on the inboard side.
> I'm glad that it's working well otherwise! Have fun out there,
> ...


Thanks for the reply and feedback.

My preference is exactly the same regarding thumb clearance - when I'm gripped up with my thumb under the bar, I don't want to touch anything but grip while throwing the bike around, so I run my controls pretty far inside.


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## tturkstra (Mar 22, 2012)

Anyone try the WolfTooth reMote with ispec II and a gravity dropper?

GD dropper remote is not great. I had removed the catch and the 2nd lever on my old XT left shifter to use as a remote with 1x. Great erognomics on my hand, but a pain to adjust since I had to "make" a second "barrel" from the Gravity dropper remote.

Wolftooth looks about 100 g lighter as well.


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## TwincamRob (Sep 20, 2014)

What is a good remote lever that will work on the left side if I'm already running a Rockshox Xloc under the bar on the left side? 

The Xfusion Bat looks like the best option I've seen assuming it can be pushed/pulled in any direction like it looks.


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## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

Yeah, the BAT can be pushed/pulled from any direction.

The 9point8 remote is very modular as well.


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## raykkho (Jul 30, 2015)

Does anyone know if the new Wolftooth Remote work with 2x setup? I wrote them twice but got no response. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

I don't see how it would. Even without the integration of the matchmaker or ispec mount, it still occupies the same space the left shifter would under the bar.


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## sundog3478 (Sep 1, 2016)

Current setup is stock Giant Contact SL switch mounted on a Lindarets Remount to my Ispec B lever. It's killing my thumb joint - and I cannot find a good compromise position for the brake and dropper levers - so I opt for optimal brake lever spot and suffer with the dropper actuation. I'm an old guy - btw.

I'm going to ditch the integrated mount option in favor of maximum independent adjustability. Looking at Raceface Turbine and the Wolftooth (once the bar mount is available). 

I favor SRAM feel vs Shimano feel for most things - but in this case - with the damage that I seem to have done to my thumb thus far - I want the smoothest and quickest and lightest actuation possible. If you have used one or both - let me know what you think.


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## dischucker (Apr 9, 2008)

I just got my Wolftooth ReMote mounted and the angle is fine for me - attached to my iSpec-B brakes. The action is quite light compared to the stock lever for my KS dropper and it is easy to adjust the cable tension to get the right actuation/release point. 








The only minor issue is there is no left/right position adjustment that you get with the iSpec-b shifters so the lever sticks out a little far to the left. But I run my brakes inboard a bit so it's fine for my setup. I also find the textured lever a little too rough - it feels like a metal file.


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## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

dischucker said:


> I just got my Wolftooth ReMote mounted and the angle is fine for me - attached to my iSpec-B brakes. The action is quite light compared to the stock lever for my KS dropper and it is easy to adjust the cable tension to get the right actuation/release point.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I believe there is a side to side adjustment. The screw that fastens from the bottom up through the pivot goes through a slot. I don't know where you are in the range of adjustment but maybe there is room to move it in the direction you want.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

JackP42 said:


> I believe there is a side to side adjustment. The screw that fastens from the bottom up through the pivot goes through a slot. I don't know where you are in the range of adjustment but maybe there is room to move it in the direction you want.


Jack's right- loosen or remove the bottom screw and you'll get left-right adjustment. It can be a snug fit and you may need to pop the lever from its mount rather than slide it, but that's to keep things from coming loose on their own.


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## gleetrevino (Aug 28, 2014)

I just installed mine today on an ispec-b and it works perfectly with buttery smooth action. I purchased the gravity turbo because of its perfect reliability but their remote setup was not a natural motion to actuate. I was about to give up on it when I saw the Wolftooth on Monday and immediately purchased it.


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

I ride a KS Lev on my trail bike and like their remote. I'm now considering buying a Gravity Dropper Turbo LP to put on a fat bike (the Lev does not work when it gets below about 20F) but I would like to use the KS remote.

I still use a 3x drive trail so have shifters on the left side and I don't want the right hand side remote of the Gravity.  Can anyone say if the Gravity Dropper will work with the KS remote.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

TheNormsk said:


> I ride a KS Lev on my trail bike and like their remote. I'm now considering buying a Gravity Dropper Turbo LP to put on a fat bike (the Lev does not work when it gets below about 20F) but I would like to use the KS remote.
> 
> I still use a 3x drive trail so have shifters on the left side and I don't want the right hand side remote of the Gravity. Can anyone say if the Gravity Dropper will work with the KS remote.
> 
> View attachment 1100992


If memory serves me, i think others have used that switch with GD, but I might be confusing the thread with someone who modified a Shimano shifter? Search and ye shall find...But looking at the picture, if the bare end of the cable (( not the end with the stop) comes thru at the remote then likely to work. On the GD the cable end with stop is connect at the seat post. GD lever is sensitive to cable tightness. if you use that barrel adjuster to tightening like crazy I am guessing that the little spring on the GD that moves the metal plug in and out of the hole may not be able to overcome such tension and the plug will stay retracted. if that happens the seatpost will drop down as soon as there is even a tiny bit of weight on it and will not stay in the up position.

the cable need to be just slightly tight on the GR not apeshit tight, as the spring there is not very strong at the post.

I am waiting for Wolftooth stock availability to use with my GD. The GD post is great but the lever is just okay. Replacing cable once a year is recommended but it has this final step where you thread the cable through a tiny hole at lever and if you fray it you need to start again with a new cable. It is pretty funny because in the GD service video you can hear the venom in his voice when he says something like"be careful not to fray it or you'll have to start over again with a new cable" It is like he is even sick of this step. but a real important step is do not to yank tight on that cable before you tighten the stems screws or the spring at post will not be able to lengthen and let metal plug go back into hole.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## gleetrevino (Aug 28, 2014)

The finicky issue with the Gravity is how tight you screw in the top post into the bottom post, if that is too tight is will not work properly. The Gravity's remote problem is its lack of proper placement, even after going 1X it still was ackward to get to, not a natural motion. Buy the Wolftooth, the setup was easy and setting tension on the remote is straight forward and easy to get too. Done dealing with the micro allen key.


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

cjsb said:


> On the GD the cable end with stop is connect at the seat post


It won't work then. The KS remote switch usese the cable end with the stop and the other end is attached to the seatpost with a grub screw. This appears to be opposite for GD.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

gleetrevino said:


> The finicky issue with the Gravity is how tight you screw in the top post into the bottom post, if that is too tight is will not work properly. The Gravity's remote problem is its lack of proper placement, even after going 1X it still was ackward to get to, not a natural motion. Buy the Wolftooth, the setup was easy and setting tension on the remote is straight forward and easy to get too. Done dealing with the micro allen key.


but that top cap screw is really easy to access and it is just adjusting by hand. no big deal. but threading the cable through tiny hole at lever and those tiny grub screws with micro surgery wrench, those are the PITA if the GD for me. i also agree that the lever gets in the way of brakes even with 1x setup, very hard to use it with lever underneath bar if you have a shifter. but GD with proper lever could be unstoppable.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

gleetrevino said:


> View attachment 1100915
> I just installed mine today on an ispec-b and it works perfectly with buttery smooth action. I purchased the gravity turbo because of its perfect reliability but their remote setup was not a natural motion to actuate. I was about to give up on it when I saw the Wolftooth on Monday and immediately purchased it.


gleetrevino,

Sounds great! I was pretty excited when we found that the ReMote would work well with GD posts. They're not a large enough market to make a dedicated solution for but they're among the most reliable posts out there and have a dedicated following.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

TheNormsk said:


> It won't work then. The KS remote switch usese the cable end with the stop and the other end is attached to the seatpost with a grub screw. This appears to be opposite for GD.


You could try the Fox Transfer remote, which is available separately, or the Giant Connect, which should be really inexpensive if your dealer can order one.


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## gleetrevino (Aug 28, 2014)

Marc,

This the ReMote is a perfect solution that works flawlessly! The Gravity is not sexy but bullet proof reliable. I have no desire to bleed a seatpost especially any brand that uses dot fluid, so hard to remove the air bubbles out of it compared to mineral oil. Thanks for a wonderful product!


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## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

I was running a 9.8 thumb b lever on my fallline. I just put the new wolf tooth remote on and like it more. The 9.8 has more options for positioning it on the bar, as the wolf tooth with the i-spec setup is limited, however the action on the wolf tooth is much much smoother and takes much less force. So depending on what is more important to you will make the final decision. I've tried a lot of remotes, and these are the top 2 IMHO.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

jdaigneault said:


> I was running a 9.8 thumb b lever on my fallline. I just put the new wolf tooth remote on and like it more... I've tried a lot of remotes, and these are the top 2 IMHO.


Thanks jdaigneault!


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## sundog3478 (Sep 1, 2016)

When is the Wolf Tooth handlebar clamp option going to be available?


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

I don't think I saw anywhere in this thread anyone using Hope brakes with the Wolf Tooth ReMote. I have Hope's on 2 of my bikes. Would the Wolf Tooth ReMote work with them?


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

sundog3478 said:


> When is the Wolf Tooth handlebar clamp option going to be available?


Sundog,
We should have them in stock within a couple of weeks. Demand has been huge and the clamp mounts are in the shop alongside the second manufacturing run of levers and bases.
Marc


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

kevinboyer said:


> I have Hope's on 2 of my bikes. Would the Wolf Tooth ReMote work with them?


Kevin,
You bet- the ReMote 22 will be the one to get unless you have one of their I-Spec A compatible levers. The I-Spec (IS-AB) versions are in stock now and 22s are in the shop now and should be shipping by the 15th of this month. 
Marc
Marc


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Kevin,
> You bet- the ReMote 22 will be the one to get unless you have one of their I-Spec A compatible levers. The I-Spec (IS-AB) versions are in stock now and 22s are in the shop now and should be shipping by the 15th of this month.
> Marc
> Marc


Thanks very much Marc. Will keep my eye on your website for the 22.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Had a hard spill on a rock face cover in wet leaves.

My Wolftooth lever took a hit and snapped at the "breakaway axel". Called the company, spoke to a real human, and had a replacement in hand within in a few days, at very little cost.

Two thumbs up to WT.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

^ It seems everything they turn out is legit.


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## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

My Wolftooth ReMote fell off the i-spec mount yesterday. The bolt that fastens up through the bottom into the barrel nut fell out. Granted, it was an extremely rocky, rough ride, but I didn't expect the bolt to rattle out. Everything was tightened down, but it looks like Loctite is a good idea on that bolt.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

amish_matt said:


> ...The bolt that fastens up through the bottom into the barrel nut fell out...


Matt,

That's not OK! Yours is the first case that I've heard of a new part loosening up- we'll have to double-check that things are being tightened correctly before shipment. Thanks for the heads-up,

Marc


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Miker J said:


> Had a hard spill on a rock face cover in wet leaves.
> 
> My Wolftooth lever took a hit and snapped at the "breakaway axel". Called the company, spoke to a real human, and had a replacement in hand within in a few days, at very little cost.
> 
> Two thumbs up to WT.


Miker,

I hope that you're alright- but thrilled that the ReMote performed as intended. As close as we tried to keep the lever to the bar, it is still exposed and we figured that we'd rather have an easily-replaced part break than the more expensive lever.

For anyone who's especially accident-prone (you know who you are) or headed out for a Whistler, Moab, or Sedona trip you can order a spare axle for under $5 here.

Marc


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## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Matt,
> 
> That's not OK! Yours is the first case that I've heard of a new part loosening up- we'll have to double-check that things are being tightened correctly before shipment. Thanks for the heads-up,
> 
> Marc


It was this screw, it requires user assembly (at least when installing replacement hardware).


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

amish_matt said:


> It was this screw, it requires user assembly (at least when installing replacement hardware).
> 
> View attachment 1102891


Sorry Matt, reading before coffee had made it into my system.

You're right- per the instructions, threadlocker and a torque of 3-4 Nm are required on that fastener.

Marc


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## mastakilla (Sep 3, 2005)

I need a lever for my KS Lev Integra 150. I bought a KS Southpaw that I never even bothered to install seeing how bad the clamp design was when I received it.

Trying to decide between the ReMote and the Turbine 1x. The ReMote is not available yet with a clamp which apparently I need since my XT brakes are not I Spec.

Anyone use both yet and can comment?

The ReMote is 20 bucks more (70 vs 50) so I am sort of leaning towards the Turbine 1x unless the ReMote is a better solution.

Thanks


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## Steve_MTB_22 (Jan 22, 2016)

Does anyone know if the Wolftooth remote requires less force than the Raceface remote version when using a 9point8 or RF Turbine? Using the Raceface mount right now and definitely got some tendonitis going on in my thumb with the old age!


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

mastakilla said:


> Trying to decide between the ReMote and the Turbine 1x. The ReMote is not available yet with a clamp which apparently I need since my XT brakes are not I Spec.


Mastakilla,

What model are your XTs? The past 2 major generations (10s and 11s) have been I-spec A, B, or II. Have a look here for some good explanation and pics.

Marc


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## mastakilla (Sep 3, 2005)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Mastakilla,
> 
> What model are your XTs? The past 2 major generations (10s and 11s) have been I-spec A, B, or II. Have a look here for some good explanation and pics.
> 
> Marc


I took a second look. I have the 785 XT brakes. They dont have the "B" on them or the side hole so I am thinking they are probably the I spec A.

Is the position of the ReMote adjustable by much or more fixed since it uses an integrated mount with the brake?


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

mastakilla said:


> I took a second look. I have the 785 XT brakes. They dont have the "B" on them or the side hole so I am thinking they are probably the I spec A.
> 
> Is the position of the ReMote adjustable by much or more fixed since it uses an integrated mount with the brake?


Nice! Anyone looking for maximum flexibility will be better suited by the ReMote 22, which should be available within in 2 weeks. That uses a hinged bar clamp rather than the brake lever integration.

As someone who (still) uses middle finger braking on my M8000/M9000 brakes, I like to locate the ReMote farther inboard than the integrated mount allows. But most who use their index finger find that the integrated ReMote suits them well.

Marc


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## Ineedmorecowbell (Jun 16, 2010)

*Wolftooth Remote*

First ride with I spec 2 Wolftooth ReMote and Lev Integra. Love the action and ease of installation!


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## Steve_MTB_22 (Jan 22, 2016)

Looks great!


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Ineedmorecowbell said:


> First ride with I spec 2 Wolftooth ReMote and Lev Integra. Love the action and ease of installation![/ATTACH]


Thanks Cowbell!


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## Nismomike (Dec 7, 2013)

I spec II with Wolftooth ReMote. Love it!









Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

*Fox Racing Shox remote lever*

Fox Racing Shox remote lever


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Just a quick update guys & gals:

We had a machine that was building the ReMotes go down, which put us out of stock for waaay too long and behind on the bar clamp version. We have a small batch coming back from anodizing today so have re-opened ordering at wolftoothcomponents.com.

For anyone holding out for the bar clamp, those are looking like they'll land around the middle of this month. Here's a prototype shot to whet your appetites:







Apologies for the middle-finger braking setup. (Old habits die hard.) It looks like _I'll _have to ask for an anodized set for Christmas


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## DH40 (Jan 14, 2004)

Another vote for Wolf Tooth ReMote from Savage Minnesota. Works great with my internal Fox Transfer directly on SRAM matchmaker X Guide RSC. No need for any extra mounting bits if you are replacing a Reverb - use its matchmaker and move it to the left side. Attached with a jagwire shifter kit.

Edit - oops didn't know there was a Wolf Tooth owner/employee? on this thread when I went Fanboy, but just FYI, I am wearing the stylish WT beanie as I type this! Keep up the great work!!


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Just a quick update guys & gals:
> 
> We had a machine that was building the ReMotes go down, which put us out of stock for waaay too long and behind on the bar clamp version. We have a small batch coming back from anodizing today so have re-opened ordering at wolftoothcomponents.com.
> 
> ...


Please hurry with the bar clamp version. I have been waiting for this to be available before I string a new cable for one of my GDs.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

cjsb said:


> Please hurry with the bar clamp version. I have been waiting for this to be available before I string a new cable for one of my GDs.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Believe me- we're cranking as hard as we can on these- but underestimated demand by a fair bit . They're in the queue!


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Believe me- we're cranking as hard as we can on these- but underestimated demand by a fair bit . They're in the queue!


It sounds like Wolf Tooth has heard the masses, with respect to the remote and is responding--good for you guys!! By the way, I have WT 42T on both my bikes, bent the B screw on one of the bikes recently but had purchased the Goat Link back when I bought the 42t. The Goat Link was very easy to install and has resolved the B screw issue, as I no longer need to use an extra-long B screw that could be prone to bend. Thanks for making great stuff--and in America!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Looking for some help regarding a new remote for my X-Fusion Hilo Strate internal dropper. Trying to figure out if any of the remotes mentioned here in this thread would be compatible? The new RF Turbine remote is high on my list, but not sure about compatibility. Love the Wolftooth ReMote too.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

kevinboyer said:


> Looking for some help regarding a new remote for my X-Fusion Hilo Strate internal dropper. Trying to figure out if any of the remotes mentioned here in this thread would be compatible? The new RF Turbine remote is high on my list, but not sure about compatibility. Love the Wolftooth ReMote too.


Kevin,
We'd love to get you on a ReMote- PM sent!


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## jminus (Sep 4, 2008)

Just chiming in to say that I've had a few rides now on the ReMote and it is by far the best remote I have used. They nailed it.


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## MADGSF (Jul 4, 2006)

Using a Wolftooth ReMote with my Giant Contact and really like it. One question for other ReMote users, did you have trouble with the "cable set screw"? It is so shallow I had trouble getting my allen wrench to bite. I use Park Tools which are in great shape but it was all I could do to get that screw tight because the wrench could not get a good grip on the screw.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

MADGSF said:


> Using a Wolftooth ReMote with my Giant Contact and really like it. One question for other ReMote users, did you have trouble with the "cable set screw"? It is so shallow I had trouble getting my allen wrench to bite. I use Park Tools which are in great shape but it was all I could do to get that screw tight because the wrench could not get a good grip on the screw.


MADGSF

I'm glad that you like it! The button head screw was a deliberate choice on our part- it is in effect a fuse that, in combination with the specified torque, prevents the user from damaging the clamping features in the lever itself. If you're using a torque wrench and the 2Nm setting called out here  you shouldn't run into any trouble. The Contact has such light action that 1-1.5Nm should be plenty. Deformation of the bolt head should come upward of 2.5Nm. Of course it's always critical to replace or refurbish any damaged tools prior to use and take care to keep hex bit perpindicular to the bolt head- which given the bolt's location is easiest in a workstand. I hope that helps,

Marc


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## MADGSF (Jul 4, 2006)

Thanks Marc, I understand but the cable kept slipping on me until I added extra pressure. Turned into a three handed operation but I got it done with two.


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## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

MADGSF said:


> Thanks Marc, I understand but the cable kept slipping on me until I added extra pressure. Turned into a three handed operation but I got it done with two.


I have rounded it out. I ordered a replacement for cheap, and will keep the torque down on this one.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

MADGSF said:


> Thanks Marc, I understand but the cable kept slipping on me until I added extra pressure. Turned into a three handed operation but I got it done with two.


Aah- it sounds like what you're seeing is this:

Pulling cable snug, use torque wrench and 2.5mm bit to tighten cable clamping screw to 2Nm


*Cable may loosen slightly- this is expected and part of the self-tightening orientation of the clamping hardware*
Do not overtighten. Screw head is designed to fail before lever threads are damaged.


Use barrel adjuster to remove slack from cable

The process of tightening the screw will push some cable back through the housing- which is normal. We could have gone the other way around the screw head but that would have made for a self-loosening (rather than self-tightening) cable once tightened. It's not much and can easily be taken up with the barrel adjuster

To minimize the movement you can hold the cable against the lever with needle-nose pliers while tightening the screw with a torque wrench. Or just start with the barrel adjuster threaded all of the way in- it's got a _ton _of range.


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## Nismomike (Dec 7, 2013)

I had a slipping cable issue with the Nukeproof OKLO dropper. The Nukeproof has a very odd design where the cable is stationary and the cable housing moves up the cable actuating the dropper. So if you don't leave enough housing slack inside the seat tube, it doesn't actuate. When I first installed the Wolftooth ReMote, I forgot to leave enough slack and when I pressed the ReMote, the cable slid. I realized my mistake and on top of adding the necessary slack in the seat tube, I made some changes. I want to be clear about something first though. I likely voided my warranty with this modification and after speaking with Wolftooth through email I completely understand why they designed it with the button head screw. Also if you don't have a torque wrench, then just do the cable modification I'm about to explain. 
I took a derailleur cable and used my dremel to grind down the anchor until it was about 1/3 of its original size. Then I ran the cable through the ReMote and the housing, pulling the anchor against the set screw in the ReMote. Tighten the set, then plummed the cable through the frame and out of the seat tube. You have to be more careful to cut the end of the cable the correct length and get the cable clamp in the correct position, but it's easy. I also switched out to a socket head screw with a thin lock washer and flat washer to clamp against the cable. This step was unnecessary, but I have a torque wrench and felt comfortable not over torqueing the socket head. I love this dropper remote. So much smoother and easier actuation than the stock lever. One of my favorite purchases I've made, no doubt. Thanks Wolftooth.
Here is the Nukeproof OKLO and the stupid design that shows how the housing actuates the dropper. They changed it the next year to a more conventional design shown below.

















Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


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## swamp2 (Dec 25, 2016)

Is there a WT setup for SRAM Guide Ultimate levers? SRAM says they are Matchmaker X compatible. I run 1X, 1 finger brake and have long fingers/thumbs. Perhaps the stand alone 22mm band clamp would be the best choice to entirely decouple brake and dropper level positioning?

Has anyone upgraded from 9point8 standard remote to WT? Way better?


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## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

I upgraded from both the 9.8 standard and 1x lever options to the WT. The WT is way smoother and the way you can set the tension at the lever makes install so fast. It is truly the best remote out there.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

swamp2 said:


> Is there a WT setup for SRAM Guide Ultimate levers? SRAM says they are Matchmaker X compatible. I run 1X, 1 finger brake and have long fingers/thumbs. Perhaps the stand alone 22mm band clamp would be the best choice to entirely decouple brake and dropper level positioning?
> 
> Has anyone upgraded from 9point8 standard remote to WT? Way better?


If you have the MatchMaker X clamp for your guides, then the MM version will integrate cleanly. My rule of thumb is that if your levers are more than 3/4in inboard of the grip to try the ReMote 22 (bar clamp). If it's closer you should be able to find the sweet spot with the ReMote MM.


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## swamp2 (Dec 25, 2016)

Marc Lindarets said:


> If you have the MatchMaker X clamp for your guides, then the MM version will integrate cleanly. My rule of thumb is that if your levers are more than 3/4in inboard of the grip to try the ReMote 22 (bar clamp). If it's closer you should be able to find the sweet spot with the ReMote MM.


Merry Christmas. Great rule of thumb, thanks. I'm right at about 3/4" (inside edge of grip clamp ring to inside edge of lever). Will go with the bar clamp - very excited to grab one when available.

Any chance of more colors in the future for chainrings? Would love to have some blue bling with a DM for RF Cinch.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

swamp2 said:


> Any chance of more colors in the future for chainrings? Would love to have some blue bling with a DM for RF Cinch.


I hear you! We'll have to see what colors emerge in the future. At the moment we're working hard to meet current demand but are hoping to catch our collective breath and do some more 'fun' projects going forward


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Marc Lindarets said:


> At the moment we're working hard to meet current demand but are hoping to catch our collective breath and do some more 'fun' projects going forward


Speaking of meeting current demand: after a couple of holiday- and weather-related delays we _finally _have bar-mount ReMote 22s in stock. Now anyone who is running non-Shimano/SRAM brakes or wants a bit more ReMote mounting flexibility is in luck. 







We only got 500- so if you'd like one sooner is better than later :thumbsup:


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## SoCal-Rider (May 25, 2009)

I just switched over to the Wolf Tooth remote lever from the 9point8 ThumB 1X lever based on a lot of the positive feedback in this thread. Thank you all. 

The WT is smoother and easier to actuate. The lever is also machined to be really grippy. Installation was easy. I didn't have to mess with the post end connection at all.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

SoCal-Rider said:


> The WT is smoother and easier to actuate. The lever is also machined to be really grippy. Installation was easy. I didn't have to mess with the post end connection at all.


Thanks SoCal- we're glad you like it


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## polecats03 (May 14, 2011)

I got this one waiting to be set up Race Face Turbine Hop Up Lever > Components > Seatposts > Seatpost & Clamp Parts | Jenson USA

Anyone else install it on an internal KS Lev Integra? Do I simply remove dropper and then reroute the wire, put end cap onto the seat part then be done?


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## mbcracken (Aug 12, 2006)

Just received my new Wolftooth trigger with 22mm clamp. Looks like it'll be a great replacement for my Thomson trigger. Bummer part is that I'm recovering from knee surgery so still 3-4 weeks out from using.

Cheers,
Mike


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Just ordered my Wolftooth bar clamp remote. There wasn't an option for LH/RH, so I guess either it doesn't matter or they are all LH? I need mine to go underneath on LH side and the one in the picture looks like it suits my fancy.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

cjsb said:


> Just ordered my Wolftooth bar clamp remote. There wasn't an option for LH/RH, so I guess either it doesn't matter or they are all LH? I need mine to go underneath on LH side and the one in the picture looks like it suits my fancy.


Thanks for your order cjsb! You're right- we only make a left-side ReMote as a right would interfere with most riders' shifters.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

polecats03 said:


> I got this one waiting to be set up Race Face Turbine Hop Up Lever > Components > Seatposts > Seatpost & Clamp Parts | Jenson USA
> 
> Anyone else install it on an internal KS Lev Integra? Do I simply remove dropper and then reroute the wire, put end cap onto the seat part then be done?


polecats, on the link you provided, go back and look at the questions asked regarding the RF Turbine Hop up and the KS Lev. There is some pertinent info there regarding the compatibility between the 2.


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## detsortehul (Jun 25, 2007)

+1 for WT ReMote:

I just replaced my Thomson remote lever with WT ReMote.
Lever position is much better and smoother.
Added bonus is less bar clutter via i-spec mount.

I received wrong size mounting hardware for i-spec B (bolt+barrel).
WT responded in less then 12 hours and shipped replacement set.

Thumbs up!


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Thanks for your order cjsb! You're right- we only make a left-side ReMote as a right would interfere with most riders' shifters.


Thank you!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Thanks for your order cjsb! You're right- we only make a left-side ReMote as a right would interfere with most riders' shifters.


Installed the remote today. Just riding around the block, love the large area and the etched surface for grip. Impressed with how adjustable it is, i.e., it can moved around quite a bit to fit next to brake. Again, just riding around the block but love the action, very smooth, easy to activate. It is very well made. I think I am going to love this thing.

There are so many "little things" aspects about dropper posts, this remote seems to be designed by people who paid attention to some of those little things.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

*ReMote IS-AB Hardware*

We made a mistake!

It looks like about 70 *ReMote IS-AB*s made it out the door with too-short hardware. It's probably not the end of the world, but if you're running a ReMote on I-Spec A or B brake levers we'd like to get you taken care of.







Just measure the screw that mounts the little arm to the brake lever as shown above. If it's ~6mm then drop Jack a line and we'll send you a replacement screw with our apologies.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Marc Lindarets said:


> We made a mistake!
> 
> It looks like about 70 *ReMote IS-AB*s made it out the door with too-short hardware. It's probably not the end of the world, but if you're running a ReMote on I-Spec A or B brake levers we'd like to get you taken care of.
> View attachment 1117368
> ...


Good on you guys! Not only as a manufacturer chiming in with your costumer base, but publicly correcting and honoring mistakes. That's some pretty rare costumer service in this age. While I have not tried your remote, I have used your drivetrain parts/solutions, and they have always delivered. Better than some well established players that I will not mention but rymes with dope. Keep up the good work


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

WHALENARD said:


> Good on you guys! Not only as a manufacturer chiming in with your costumer base, but publicly correcting and honoring mistakes. That's some pretty rare costumer service in this age... Keep up the good work


Thanks Whalenard! We'd rather have people hear about things from us than get all frustrated finding issues themselves :-\


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Seatpost - Giant Contact SL Switch-R
Drivetrain - 2x, so there's a shifter on the left side.

Want to replace stoch Contact remote with smth else..
Candidates:

Fox Racing Shox Handlebar Remote Lever for Transfer Seatpost









Race Face Universal Remote Hebel für Turbine Dropper









XLC Lenkerremote SP-X04 für SP-T04 / SP-T06 / SP-T07








They are enough long (I don't want to be it somewhere veri hight for my finger), they all are with wide thumb at the end.

The main goal - most easier pushing, I'm tired with the pressure on my previous RS Reverb so looking for easiest use.

which one is better, any thoughts?


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## Nismomike (Dec 7, 2013)

Mbr video install of Wolftooth ReMote 





Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


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## HoldenSierra (Apr 5, 2016)

Nismomike said:


> Mtbr video install of Wolftooth ReMote


Great Video! Really helpful. Thanks for posting. Its saved in my bicycle reference list of youtube.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Nismomike said:


> Mbr video install of Wolftooth ReMote


Thanks for the link!

Just a quick reminder to everyone at home- _please _follow the torque specifications on the ReMote hardware, which can be found at wolftoothcomponents.com and to make sure that your tools are in good condition before beginning. The 2.5mm hex on the cable fixing bolt acts as a fuse and will round out before the cable clamping features are damaged through overtightening.

It's probably best to give the clamping bolt Loctite a miss for similar reasons- we didn't specify it with threadlocker in mind and so you could run the risk of damaging the hardware if the Loctite takes too firm a set.﻿

Otherwise that's pretty much how we do it!


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## cakemonster (Sep 30, 2012)

Going to get the WT Remote, but would appreciate input.

Have Ispec B (Deore M615) brakes and reading discussion of integrated mount vs. moveability of 22mm clamp.

Folks happy with the Ispec B mount? Easy to setup? All things equal like the cleaner look, but 22mm would be fine.


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## detsortehul (Jun 25, 2007)

cakemonster said:


> Folks happy with the Ispec B mount? Easy to setup? All things equal like the cleaner look, but 22mm would be fine.


Yes. A great upgrade from the Thomson stock lever.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

cakemonster said:


> Have Ispec B (Deore M615) brakes and reading discussion of integrated mount vs. moveability of 22mm clamp..


Cakemonster,

My rule of thumb is that if your levers are more than 3/4in inboard of the grip to try the ReMote 22 (bar clamp). If it's closer you should be able to find the sweet spot with the ReMote MM.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Got one trail ride in on my Wolftooth bar grip remote. Really impressive
Smooth action and no up/down play like the GD remote. Easy to position with respect to brake and absolutely love the big etched lever. 

My GD has never operated so consistently smooth. Got to get another one now for the second bike.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## BobRocket (Jul 19, 2004)

*A clean remote installation*

I've used several seatposts and their remotes. I even converted a SRAM shifter to be a remote. The Wolf Tooth remote blows all of them out of the water. It is damn near perfect.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

BobRocket said:


> I've used several seatposts and their remotes. I even converted a SRAM shifter to be a remote. The Wolf Tooth remote blows all of them out of the water. It is damn near perfect.


Have you tried the Specialized SRL? How do the two compare if so?


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> Seatpost - Giant Contact SL Switch-R
> Drivetrain - 2x, so there's a shifter on the left side.
> 
> Want to replace stoch Contact remote with smth else..
> ...


Up, please.. Which one is the easiest to push?
Does the length matter?


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

If you can't use a wolf then, I like the joystick style. Very good leverage and can be mounted above or below on both sides of the bike.

https://yepcomponents.com/product/remote-assembly/?v=7516fd43adaa


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

well I've got front derailleur so I can't use Wolf Tooth ReMote.
That Joystick-type It's a little bit uncertain for me, I guess old-fashioned remote lever like I posted earlier would be the best. The question is which one and whether the length of lever is important for easier pushing?..


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## tomfish (Aug 9, 2010)

wolftooth for the win on cable actuated posts..


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## Tim N (Feb 20, 2015)

Someone knows for sure if the RaceFace remote can be attached to a Tech 3 Hope lever? (direct or with sram adapter)


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## slowride454 (Jan 11, 2014)

I got what I thought was a good deal on a dropper from a LBS, but the remote won't work. So it's not turning out to be a good deal. I got a Specialized post that was taken off a bike with the SLR remote, but I run SRAM XX 2x. I putzed around with that remote and couldn't find a way to make it work with shifters. So I just stuck a regular seatpost in my new bike and I'll probably sell it if I can't find a remote that works. Any real world experience with front shifters and the Specialized internally routed dropper post?


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## Tim N (Feb 20, 2015)

Sell SLR remote to me and buy a thumb remote
https://coresites-cdn.factorymedia.com/bikemagic_new/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/IMG_5218.jpg


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

crankbrothers highline remote with interesting spherical adjustment

https://www.crankbrothers.com/product/highline-remote


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## slowride454 (Jan 11, 2014)

Tim N said:


> Sell SLR remote to me and buy a thumb remote
> https://coresites
> Where do I find ...d on Specialized's website and didn't see it.


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## Tim N (Feb 20, 2015)

This one XLC is the cheapest option
https://www.bike-components.de/de/XLC/Lenkerremote-SP-X04-fuer-SP-T04-SP-T06-SP-T07-p45363/

Or raceface option
https://www.bike-components.de/de/Race-Face/Universal-Remote-Hebel-fuer-Turbine-Dropper-p45982/



slowride454 said:


> Tim N said:
> 
> 
> > Sell SLR remote to me and buy a thumb remote
> ...


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

+1 on the Joystick. Move it any direction, mount it anywhere. Mine is top mount, left index finger. Works slick.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

GuzziBen said:


> +1 on the Joystick. Move it any direction, mount it anywhere. Mine is top mount, left index finger. Works slick.


think it's better than crankbrothers highline remote ?


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

My joystick is an old crankbrothers remote for the joplin. There new remote looks good. I tried it at sea otter and the action was smooth. it has a lot of adjustability too. The thing about joystick remotes is they are oni directional. It's a huge benefit to push any direction and drop your seat. The leverage ratio is one of the highest on the market too.
Wolf first. joystick close second.


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## adi518 (Oct 11, 2006)

I'm guessing the Turbine doesn't fit a matchmaker clamp, does it? I've got matchmakers on my Spesh, but no front shifter so the bike arrived without the little bracket piece on the left clamp. If I want to leverage matchmaker, do I need to get either Spesh SRL/Wolftooth's lever? as far as my search efforts go, Turbine lever doesn't seem to be compatible with matchmaker, which is unfortunate.. I like the color options.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Got my Wolftooth lever today, to replace a KS Southpaw remote being used with my Thomson Covert post. Really like how the WT lever can work with any cable actuated post. I had to cobble the KS lever to work (I put a crimp on the cable at the post end, to effectively run a cable with two fixed ends. Kinda fiddly to set up and has always made me nervous that my crimp would fail, but it has held for several hundred miles.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Where is the cable head on the wolf tooth lever? Is it on the lever side or post side?


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## MattMay (Dec 24, 2013)

Lever. 
http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/remote


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

I haven't been following this thread, but I recently got a Bontrager Dropline and like the remote. Different from most other posts, the head of the cable goes at the bottom of the dropper and the free end is fixed with a screw under the lever. This is easier to set up than the typical trimming the cable to an exact length, fastening a little barrel on it and finagling it into the hook on the dropper. This could be used with those droppers by first fastening the barrel to the cable then adjusting length and fixing the other end at the lever.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

CrozCountry said:


> Where is the cable head on the wolf tooth lever? Is it on the lever side or post side?





MattMay said:


> Lever.
> http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/remote


Nope. Cable head can be either end, depending on the post you have.

My thomson takes the cable head at the post end. WT lever has a pinch bolt for the cable so I am good.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Harold said:


> Nope. Cable head can be either end, depending on the post you have.


Harold,

Our preferred installation is, in the case of posts with a cable clamp at the base, that the cable end be cut off- once the seatpost end is secure that makes adjustment just as easy as it is with posts that are set up the right way 'round.

Marc


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Harold,
> 
> Our preferred installation is, in the case of posts with a cable clamp at the base, that the cable end be cut off- once the seatpost end is secure that makes adjustment just as easy as it is with posts that are set up the right way 'round.
> 
> Marc


I suppose that detail is important. ;-) but yeah, that is one big reason I like your lever. Another is that you put on a real pinch bolt, not a crappy grub screw.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

I don't know if it's better, but I like that it's universal as far as direction. You can push it, pull it, tap it up or down. I top-mount it and use my index finger, and don't have to move my thumb. 


ka81ua said:


> think it's better than crankbrothers highline remote ?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Got my WT ReMote installed the other day. It's smooth. I like it. And now I have a little more peace of mind that my cable isn't going to fail on me (with the way I had rigged up a double-ended cable to use a KS Southpaw on a Thomson Covert with a cable crimp).


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## sapva (Feb 20, 2017)

WHALENARD said:


> The specialized slr looks damn nice. If I don't find a nicer one I'm going with that.


It does look nice. I have a couple different KS models and they both suck. Also have been toying with the idea of using a cross top brake or shifter lever instead.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

The specialized SLR works well, but it has the cable head in the lever, requiring the clamp on the dropper side. I had to do a hack for it to work with my dropper (that has the cable end on the post side). 
It is also sram matchmaker, so if you have shimano brakes it's another hack.

It does work well, but if I had to buy one today I would get the wolf tooth instead. It's universal and works with all droppers, cost the same for most configurations, and you can have a clean setup. Actually I can't think of a reason to get the SLR over the wolf tooth.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

I have been using the WT Remote for over a month now. Easy to find on the bar, easy to activate, smooth action. I use a GD and the seat must be weighted or unweighted by your butt as you activate. By comparison with GD lever you get a lot of "misfires" where you weight the seat and the lever did not engage, it translates to having to do an extra deep knee bend on the bike, which gets old after a while. With WT remote it always engages, no more misfires. Overall my reaction has been "Somebody out there understands us (riders who use droppers) and what we want in a remote."


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> Seatpost - Giant Contact SL Switch-R
> Drivetrain - 2x, so there's a shifter on the left side.
> 
> Want to replace stoch Contact remote with smth else..
> ...


Can somebody advice any lifehack about how to press cable in levers like those in quote (when cable head is on seatpost side)?


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## gilgamesh0 (May 26, 2008)

ka81ua said:


> Up, please.. Which one is the easiest to push?
> Does the length matter?


I've got the RaceFace, have been liking it a lot. I wouldn't necessarily say it should be everyone's top option -- others are certainly nice, WolfTooth definitely seems the most flexible for install scenarios etc. (the Specialized SRL is also a nice option with good leverage) -- but if ease of pushing is your absolute top priority, the RaceFace may be your best choice. It has very high leverage due to its length. (Someone posted a chart somewhere earlier, in this thread I think, listing the leverage ratios for various levers, with the RF being the highest by a notable margin.)

Depending on the post, you may need to use the KS cable collar and set screw though to anchor the cable at the lever end. I've got the Fox Transfer, links for the two parts can be found in the Fox Transfer thread.


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## gilgamesh0 (May 26, 2008)

ka81ua said:


> Can somebody advice any lifehack about how to press cable in levers like those in quote (when cable head is on seatpost side)?


Actually, I remember now I got that KS cable collar and set screw I mentioned above from Jenson, which has them at a reasonable cost, so I just checked my order history. Here they are:

KS Cable Collar > Components > Seatposts > Dropper Service Parts | Jenson USA
KS Cable Collar Set Screw > Components > Seatposts > Dropper Service Parts | Jenson USA

Note that the picture for the cable collar is wrong, it just shows the set screw like in the other link, not the black cable collar itself. But it's the right part.

(There is some further discussion and pics in the Fox Transfer thread.)


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Are you talking about those parts - https://www.bike-components.de/en/Kind-Shock/Kabelklemme-fuer-LEV-p34730/ ?


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## the-ninth (Nov 1, 2013)

...


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## gilgamesh0 (May 26, 2008)

ka81ua said:


> Are you talking about those parts - https://www.bike-components.de/en/Kind-Shock/Kabelklemme-fuer-LEV-p34730/ ?


No, that's not the collar. Here's another page showing the correct collar photo, and set screw for it:

https://www.bikeparts.com/BPC165101/ks-cable-collar-i900-i950-i7-eten
https://www.bikeparts.com/BPC153618/ks-cable-collar-set-screw-i900-i950-eten-remote

In Europe, looks like they have them here:

https://www.bike24.com/p2120911.html
https://www.bike24.com/p2120866.html (doesn't look like this one is in stock here though)

Or I guess here at your previous site. Not sure if they have the right set screw.. anyway, you get the idea :

https://www.bike-components.de/en/K...helle-fuer-Dropzone-Supernatural-i900-p34749/


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

thank you


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> crankbrothers highline remote with interesting spherical adjustment
> 
> https://www.crankbrothers.com/product/highline-remote


finally bought it.
One bad thing - it can't be installed in middle position, cause handlebar woun't go through clamp...


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## dvd31 (Jul 27, 2014)

Did anyone managed to mount the Race Face lever directly to Shimano clamp?


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

*Light Action Wolf Tooth ReMote*

You asked, we listened 







From today, Wolf Tooth is offering a ReMote Light Action for stiffly-sprung seatposts like the 9point8 Fall Line, RaceFace Turbine, and Fox Transfer- or for those who prefer reduced effort over a shorter throw.

And if you've already bought the original don't worry- we've got your back. Light Action upgrade kits are available for $17.95.


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## DerrickT (Jun 10, 2004)

I'm about to pull the trigger on the Wolftooth LA lever. But then I heard Cane Creek came out with their own -- the dropt.

Does anyone have experience with the CC lever?

https://www.canecreek.com/products/suspension/accessories/dropt


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## Rone Turner (Mar 25, 2007)

I was about to buy another RF lever, until I saw this long lever from Wolftooth. I like it. Also like your oval chainring, fat paw grips and the idea of your camo spider. Don't have one yet. Love these small companies that are run by riders like us. Wolftooth, DVO and Canfield. Just to name a few.


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## MattMay (Dec 24, 2013)

Marc Lindarets said:


> From today, Wolf Tooth is offering a ReMote Light Action for stiffly-sprung seatposts like the 9point8 Fall Line, RaceFace Turbine, and Fox Transfer- or for those who prefer reduced effort over a shorter throw.


Marc, looks like you're not recommending for Shimano lever integration at all. Thanks for showing the pics on the full description link, which for those thinking about this modification, take a look: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/new-products/products/remote-light-action


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## sapva (Feb 20, 2017)

DerrickT said:


> Does anyone have experience with the CC lever?


I don't, but love their brake levers and have never been disappointed with anything Cane Creek. Looking at that to replace my crap KS lever.


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## zooey (Oct 31, 2016)

Marc Lindarets said:


> You asked, we listened
> View attachment 1132332
> 
> From today, Wolf Tooth is offering a ReMote Light Action for stiffly-sprung seatposts like the 9point8 Fall Line, RaceFace Turbine, and Fox Transfer- or for those who prefer reduced effort over a shorter throw.
> ...


+rep! Now to bug JensonUSA to get this in stock (as well as WolfTooth's stainless 1x chainring)!

On second thought, after modding a XO shifter to work with my KS Lev, I think I'll miss the ability to adjust the lever position. I prefer to use more of my wrist to actuate a thumb lever, so I like it having pointing up some, rather than pushing my thumb forward. That and I have a Shimano SLX M7000 chainring...


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Why do you have to buy from Jenson, buy from Wolftooth directly, costs the same. SMH

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

MattMay said:


> Marc, looks like you're not recommending for Shimano lever integration at all. Thanks for showing the pics on the full description link, which for those thinking about this modification, take a look: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/new-products/products/remote-light-action


Matt,
The ReMote LA will work with (and is available for) Shimano levers- but the added length put it in a spot that none of us love:







I'm on 11s-generation levers on all of my bikes with the LA and as much as I prefer the clean look of the IS-II, the flexibility of the bar clamp wins out for me.

For the standard lever (which I prefer with the Transfer as well as everything else for which it's indicated), the integrated mount is my preference:








Marc


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

BobRocket said:


> I've used several seatposts and their remotes. I even converted a SRAM shifter to be a remote. The Wolf Tooth remote blows all of them out of the water.


Thanks for the pics. They helped me decide to try the Wolftooth, and I ordered one from Jenson today. 
After comparing the angles and distance in from my grips, plus getting out the Matchmaker with shifter I use when running gears, it looks like the WT remote will fall right under my thumb when attached to my brake lever. Being able to adjust the cable length at the remote end was also a huge selling point.

For WT:
I ordered the hardware kit, even though I have that unused Matchmaker(never know when gears may re-enter the equation), but had to look at the clamp and pictures to realize that I didn't *have* to get the kit. A sentence or two in the description on the website, clarifying that the kit converts a standard clamp, would be helpful. 
It says "*most* brakes will have come with them"-referring to the Matchmaker. Well, as far as I know, NONE of SRAM's aftermarket brakesets come with Matchmaker; it's just an available option that has to be purchased separately. Adding to the confusion, they also sell both complete clamps with MM, and adapter kits.
My initial impression was that you were selling a Matchmaker remote that required extra parts to work with a Matchmaker...huh?


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

OwenM said:


> Thanks for the pics. They helped me decide to try the Wolftooth, and I ordered one from Jenson today.
> After comparing the angles and distance in from my grips, plus getting out the Matchmaker with shifter I use when running gears, it looks like the WT remote will fall right under my thumb when attached to my brake lever. Being able to adjust the cable length at the remote end was also a huge selling point.
> 
> For WT:
> ...


Thanks Owen and sorry about the confustion! Here are the text from and relevant image from our website- did you have something different in mind?







ReMote MM SRAM/Avid MatchMaker X - Does NOT include the MatchMaker hardware. We sell the MatchMaker X kit separately, as most brakes will have come with them. If you need the MatchMaker hardware be sure to add it to your order.​Marc


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## hiphopopotamus (Feb 8, 2016)

It looks like 9point8 likes the Wolftooth remote too, because they appear to have partnered with them:

https://www.9point8.ca/index.php?route=product/product&path=44&product_id=153


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

Marc Lindarets said:


> did you have something different in mind?


Assuming my understanding of how this works is correct:
"ReMote MM SRAM/Avid Matchmaker X - compatible with SRAM Matchmaker clamps. 
We sell a Matchmaker X hardware kit separately, to allow the use of SRAM's standard hinged brake clamp. If you do not already have a Matchmaker clamp, be sure to add it to your order."


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

OwenM said:


> Assuming my understanding of how this works is correct:
> "ReMote MM SRAM/Avid Matchmaker X - compatible with SRAM Matchmaker clamps.
> We sell a Matchmaker X hardware kit separately, to allow the use of SRAM's standard hinged brake clamp. If you do not already have a Matchmaker clamp, be sure to add it to your order."


Owen,
I understand now. The hinged clamp is the only one that is MatchMaker X compatible. We don't sell the clamp- only the hardware for those who've misplaced it.


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## AntzGT (Apr 13, 2017)

Davidfs said:


> My stock KS lever just broke at the clamp


Yea, same here (eTen) and although I LOVE the post, I refuse to give KS another dollar for making such a chyt clamp. I tried the RF Turbine 1xLever but it sits too low for me. I may try the other RF top version or just rig a front shifter! I like the Bat style but can't find 'em...


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

Received and installed the WT ReMote today. Works great, and swapping from the KS remote was a 5 minute job after mounting the WT w/Matchmaker hardware to my brake lever.

Anybody know the size(length/pitch) of the cable retention screw that takes a 2.5mm hex? Mine was a loose fit on a 2.5mm, and stripped almost instantly with fingertip pressure when snugging it down. Got it tight with an SAE Allen wrench at an angle, but need to change it out. Don't want to remove it without a replacement on hand, 'cause I might not be able to get it tight again.

Liking the remote, though. Very easy to adjust and reach with the Matchmaker, and the increased leverage means very little pressure required to actuate the dropper.


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## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

Is there any difference between race face and Easton levers, except color? I'm using turbine post and hate stock lever, Easton cost under 40$ rf under 70$


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

OwenM said:


> Received and installed the WT ReMote today. Works great, and swapping from the KS remote was a 5 minute job after mounting the WT w/Matchmaker hardware to my brake lever.
> 
> Anybody know the size(length/pitch) of the cable retention screw that takes a 2.5mm hex? Mine was a loose fit on a 2.5mm, and stripped almost instantly with fingertip pressure when snugging it down. Got it tight with an SAE Allen wrench at an angle, but need to change it out. Don't want to remove it without a replacement on hand, 'cause I might not be able to get it tight again.
> 
> Liking the remote, though. Very easy to adjust and reach with the Matchmaker, and the increased leverage means very little pressure required to actuate the dropper.


Owen,
I'm glad that you like it! Did you use a torque wrench and still have the head strip at or below the indicated 1-2Nm? The button head screw was a deliberate choice on our part- it is in effect a fuse that, in combination with the specified torque, prevents the user from damaging clamping features on the lever itself. Replacement screws are readily available from Wolf Tooth and a number of their dealers. Of course in the meantime you'll want to inspect and replace or refurbish any damaged tools prior to use and take care to keep hex bit perpendicular to the bolt head when tightening. I hope this helps!

Marc


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

Yeah, that would help if I didn't have the proper tools, or know how to turn a screw.
I saw the torque spec when pulling up the instructions the remote doesn't come with to double check the size when none of my 2.5mm wrenches, that mysteriously work fine on other 2.5mm bolts, fit without a lot of play.
That's ok, I can pull that thing off and slap a return label on the box in even less time than it took to mount it if all I can get is some condescending bullcrap when I ask for a bolt size.

Edit: that's M4-.70 x 6 for anyone needing a replacement. You'll also need a washer. The one on the stock bolt is captive.


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## Mansram01 (Apr 8, 2014)

HoldenSierra said:


> I have the southpaw. When the lever slid on my carbon bar, I sent an email to KS, and this was the response:
> 
> "Please be sure there is anti-seize on the thread of the titanium bolt as it will seem like you have a lot of torque on the bolt, but in fact it is partially seizing on the aluminum. The anti seize will allow you to torque the bolt to 5nm.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing this! I was just browsing the comments on the best remotes and just recently my KS Southpaw started sliding downwards. After reading your post, I'm pretty confident this will work. Had I read these posts before, I would have gotten the Wolf remote but I was pretty happy with the KS. Once it doesn't slip, I'll be completely happy.


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## AntzGT (Apr 13, 2017)

Nick_M said:


> Is there any difference between race face and Easton levers, except color?


Easton Haven? Nope! The RF might be a little longer tho.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

OwenM said:


> Yeah, that would help if I didn't have the proper tools, or know how to turn a screw.
> I saw the torque spec when pulling up the instructions the remote doesn't come with to double check the size when none of my 2.5mm wrenches, that mysteriously work fine on other 2.5mm bolts, fit without a lot of play.
> That's ok, I can pull that thing off and slap a return label on the box in even less time than it took to mount it if all I can get is some condescending bullcrap when I ask for a bolt size.
> 
> Edit: that's M4-.70 x 6 for anyone needing a replacement. You'll also need a washer. The one on the stock bolt is captive.


Owen,

I'm sorry that you mistook my explanation for condescension. I was only trying to explain the reasoning for our specification of that particular piece of hardware and how to obtain a replacement. We have seen screw head failures (it is intended to be the failure point in the event of over-torquing)- but none to my knowledge when the user has used a torque wrench set to the specification, which is why I asked. We began adding torque spec to the graphics of levers built beginning a month or so ago, but existing inventory will not have it etched on the lever.

I don't have the packaging insert here to quote, but believe that it directs users to the Wolf Tooth website for compatibility information and instructions- while admittedly not as convenient as a folded paper set, this keeps costs in check, reduces waste, and ensures that shops and home mechanics have access to the most current information.

Of course I understand if you'd prefer to go with another company's product- we'd hate to see you go but ultimately want you to be happy with whatever you're riding.

Marc


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## HoldenSierra (Apr 5, 2016)

Mansram01 said:


> Thanks for sharing this! I was just browsing the comments on the best remotes and just recently my KS Southpaw started sliding downwards. After reading your post, I'm pretty confident this will work. Had I read these posts before, I would have gotten the Wolf remote but I was pretty happy with the KS. Once it doesn't slip, I'll be completely happy.


Glad the post helped. Yes, I have not had any trouble in the last 2000 miles or so of hard riding after applying the grease. I do like the look (and discussion) on the wolf, I'll probably give it try at some point, but I'm good for now with the KS.

Let us know if you manage to get yours to stay in place as well.


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## zooey (Oct 31, 2016)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Owen,
> 
> I'm sorry that you mistook my explanation for condescension. I was only trying to explain the reasoning for our specification of that particular piece of hardware and how to obtain a replacement. We have seen screw head failures (it is intended to be the failure point in the event of over-torquing)- but none to my knowledge when the user has used a torque wrench set to the specification, which is why I asked. We began *adding torque spec to the graphics of levers* built beginning a month or so ago, but existing inventory will not have it etched on the lever.
> 
> ...


Being former military, I appreciate having instructions and stuff like this printed on the actual equipment. Best kind of "army-proofing"! Example: colored illustration on how to operate powered ground equipment, stuck on the inside of the door near the controls, and illustrations on how to do basic maintenance on the inside of the access door for the inner working parts.


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## Mansram01 (Apr 8, 2014)

HoldenSierra said:


> Glad the post helped. Yes, I have not had any trouble in the last 2000 miles or so of hard riding after applying the grease. I do like the look (and discussion) on the wolf, I'll probably give it try at some point, but I'm good for now with the KS.
> 
> Let us know if you manage to get yours to stay in place as well.


BTW, how tight did you go? I tried the carbon paste at 5nm and it's still slipping?

UPDATE: Never mind. Got it fixed. I had some tape stuck underneath the clamp. I removed it and tightened. Seems good for now. Will update later after several rides... Thanks again!


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

fwiw, I didn't use a torque wrench on my wt remote and have had zero issues--it works great. i guess i did it wrong even without following any of the instructions. i didn't even bother to read them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## HoldenSierra (Apr 5, 2016)

Mansram01 said:


> BTW, how tight did you go? I tried the carbon paste at 5nm and it's still slipping?
> 
> UPDATE: Never mind. Got it fixed. I had some tape stuck underneath the clamp. I removed it and tightened. Seems good for now. Will update later after several rides... Thanks again!


Cool! I was just about to send a picture of what I used. Glad you got it figured out.


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Owen,
> 
> I'm sorry that you mistook my explanation for condescension.


Good grief, you really don't know when or how to shut up.
I didn't ask for an explanation, and condescending is apparently all you know how to to be.
No mistake there, either. It's very obvious from your intentionally out of spec bolts that you call a "fuse", Matchmaker kits "for those who've misplaced them"(when the brakes don't come with them to begin with), and explaining your explanations rather than answering a simple question that you automatically assume your customers are stupid. Doubly ironic given your lack of both common sense and reading comprehension. 
I couldn't even snug the bolt down to where I'd use the torque wrench on it before it stripped. Just how hard can that be to understand? Did the words "almost instantly stripped" read in some other language on your screen? 
Oh, but you'll sell me another 10 cent bolt just like it for $1 plus shipping. That's what you tell someone after sending them something that doesn't do what it's supposed to? That's just pathetic.

btw, not only have you told every prospective buyer of your products who reads this thread that you think they're idiots, but that they can expect zero support after the sale, because any problem they have is their fault. Maybe you should think about that, and try automatically showing your customers some respect, instead. You'll probably have more of them, and their money, in the long run.


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## gleetrevino (Aug 28, 2014)

I've been following this post for some time and I think Marc has been very helpful and quick with responses. Even Gravity Dropper posts recommends buying two clamps because most riders will crank it down and break it and their lever is dismal in comparison. I suggest WT throws in a couple of these with each purchase?


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## Back2MTB (Jun 4, 2014)

OwenM said:


> Good grief, you really don't know when or how to shut up.
> I didn't ask for an explanation, and condescending is apparently all you know how to to be.
> No mistake there, either. It's very obvious from your intentionally out of spec bolts that you call a "fuse", Matchmaker kits "for those who've misplaced them"(when the brakes don't come with them to begin with), and explaining your explanations rather than answering a simple question that you automatically assume your customers are stupid. Doubly ironic given your lack of both common sense and reading comprehension.
> I couldn't even snug the bolt down to where I'd use the torque wrench on it before it stripped. Just how hard can that be to understand? Did the words "almost instantly stripped" read in some other language on your screen?
> ...


Owen, I think you need a Snickers and a bike ride.


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Damn Owen. You broke a easy to replace part that was designed to be a fuse. Wolf has been on the ball supporting this and all of their products. Take a deep breath and calm down.
Calling or emailing a manufacture usually gets a better response then flaming them on a message board.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

OwenM said:


> Good grief, you really don't know when or how to shut up.
> I didn't ask for an explanation, and condescending is apparently all you know how to to be.
> No mistake there, either. It's very obvious from your intentionally out of spec bolts that you call a "fuse", Matchmaker kits "for those who've misplaced them"(when the brakes don't come with them to begin with), and explaining your explanations rather than answering a simple question that you automatically assume your customers are stupid. Doubly ironic given your lack of both common sense and reading comprehension.
> I couldn't even snug the bolt down to where I'd use the torque wrench on it before it stripped. Just how hard can that be to understand? Did the words "almost instantly stripped" read in some other language on your screen?
> ...


Dude, you're being way too sensitive. Also, your language is orders of magnitude more condescending (and explicitly insulting) than Marc's. If Marc's can even be viewed as such.

Just pack up the lever and return it like you said you would and get a lever from another vendor. Easy peasy.

Lastly, myself and many others who have participated in this thread are more than happy with WT's level of support. WT are one of few component manufacturers who are active on these boards. So, as a prospective buyer of WT products, I don't need or want you to speak for me in regards to either how they view my level of intellect or how I view their service model. Thanks!


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

Yeah, I know. I'm the bad guy and stuff.
Y'all can think what you want. He wanted to talk down to me on a message board, so that's where I responded. My comments were positive; the remote's great, but it does require a cable retention bolt to work. I just asked for a bolt size. 
That "fuse" part is wishful thinking, and whatever torque it takes before rounding off is a crap shoot. They're apparently just giving you something like a 7/64"(2.8mm) opening, and calling it 2.5mm. There's no control over when it will round off, and it's not going to take repeated use.

That was M4-.70 x 6 with 4mm washer for anyone who missed it. Cheaper in bulk, but you should be able to get about a dozen of each(it's a lifetime supply!) for ~$4 at a hardware store.



Back2MTB said:


> Owen, I think you need a Snickers and a bike ride.


How'd you know I have a Snickers bar before every ride?:thumbsup:


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

OwenM said:


> Yeah, I know. I'm the bad guy and stuff.


I don't think you know.

Yours truly,

"shut up!"

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## oldroadie_NC (Mar 3, 2009)

OwenM said:


> Good grief, you really don't know when or how to shut up.
> I didn't ask for an explanation, and condescending is apparently all you know how to to be.
> No mistake there, either. It's very obvious from your intentionally out of spec bolts that you call a "fuse", Matchmaker kits "for those who've misplaced them"(when the brakes don't come with them to begin with), and explaining your explanations rather than answering a simple question that you automatically assume your customers are stupid. Doubly ironic given your lack of both common sense and reading comprehension.
> I couldn't even snug the bolt down to where I'd use the torque wrench on it before it stripped. Just how hard can that be to understand? Did the words "almost instantly stripped" read in some other language on your screen?
> ...


Wow, seems like Marc is trying very hard to be respectful and helpful. Owen, not so much. I'm in the market for a different dropper lever than the one that came with my post. WT seems to be what I'm looking for and I appreciate Marc's customer service. Thanks to you both for helping me decide!


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## zooey (Oct 31, 2016)

Dang, Marc getting a lot of love here. Such questionably-fueled anger being directed at anyone else would've not likely been met with anything like this elsewhere on this board. Actually getting more support than he had in the past due to one flamer, is actually quite impressive.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

I've got the ReMote on all 3 of my bikes. Marc went out of his way to help me sort out what ReMote I needed to go with my Hope brakes. All 3 of my ReMote's were installed by my top notch LBS mechanic who has built the last 5 of my custom built bikes. He didn't strip out anything, and my ReMotes work like a dream. Maybe you're the problem here Owen. Your language above was way out of line in my estimation. A simple call to WT would have avoided all of this. 

Thanks again Marc for all your help, and the nice "deal" you were able to hook me up with regarding the X-Fusion dropper I have.


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

kevinboyer said:


> A simple call to WT would have avoided all of this.


Well, so would a simple answer to a simple question.
I'm glad your bolts were ok, and wish mine had been. It wouldn't have worked for anybody, and I don't know how I could have made that more clear. If I had jacked it up, I'd have said so from the start(not like it would have been the first time that happened!).
I've got a lot of experience, and very little patience, with engineers blaming end users when their stuff doesn't work as intended, so I guess this really did get under my skin. Having to make two trips out of my way for bolts and then washers in between extra shifts didn't exactly improve my perspective on the situation.
I'm done with it. Everything works like it's supposed to with a proper bolt, and talking about it more isn't going to change anything.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

OwenM said:


> Well, so would a simple answer to a simple question.
> I'm glad your bolts were ok, and wish mine had been. It wouldn't have worked for anybody, and I don't know how I could have made that more clear. If I had jacked it up, I'd have said so from the start(not like it would have been the first time that happened!).
> I've got a lot of experience, and very little patience, with engineers blaming end users when their stuff doesn't work as intended, so I guess this really did get under my skin. Having to make two trips out of my way for bolts and then washers in between extra shifts didn't exactly improve my perspective on the situation.
> I'm done with it. Everything works like it's supposed to with a proper bolt, and talking about it more isn't going to change anything.


I want to share my own experience with you for some perspective. I have multiple Gravity Dropper posts and they are intentionally designed with a clamp for the remote that will break if you crash in order to protect the remote. But this design feature also means they will crack if you over tighten the clamp to the handlebar. I have over-tightened it and broke it, so I have had a similar experience. Lesson learned for me and I haven't cracked one since. GD approaches this by giving you an extra clamp with the post but after that you have to buy one from them. I have bought extras to have just in case.

Companies like GD and Wolf Tooth are not getting one over on us by making intentionally fragile parts for which they then gouge us on replacements. There is a trade-off, where it seems worth risking some customer frustration and minor expense in order to protect the more expensive component.

Most reasonable people would have communicated better than your over-the-top posts, despite the fact that you are legitimately frustrated with stripping the part--it happens to the best of us.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## MattMay (Dec 24, 2013)

The amount of tolerance/play in the WT Remote 2.5mm cable set screw is no different than the tolerance/play in the Shimano XTR 9000 brake 2.5mm screw. Reasonable conclusion re stripped bolt: user error.


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## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

I rounded out the head of my cable fixing bolt last time I ran a new cable. I've changed the cable a few times and never had a problem, but I must have been a little ham fisted this time.

Anyway, the replacements are cheap, so I ordered two since I was paying shipping. Arrived in 2-3 days, and they threw in a zipper pull, which I thought was a nice touch.

**** happens. As long as replacement parts are available and I can get them quick, I'm satisfied.


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

I ordered the Light Action lever (already had the ReMote), and while placing the order, I tossed a spare bolt in the cart... because it was cheap. I never had an issue, but small bolts make me nervous about possible ham-fisting.

And the surprise was that the new lever came with a bolt, so now I have two spares.

BTW: Running it with Shimano XTR IS II, and I actually like where it puts the lever. My weak thumb rejoices!


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## durkind (Jul 8, 2005)

Has anyone switched from Fox thumb remote to Wolftooth? Is it that much smoother? Thanks


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Don't have any experience with the Fox remote, but I have 3 Wolftooth ReMotes, and they are very smooth.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Wife has a new Juliana on order and it comes with a reverb. I am not thrilled with the post and was ready to put something else on with a better lever (she hates the ejector button). We learned about SRAM's 1x paddle remote upgrade, so she decided she wanted that instead of a different post. It looks like sram is claiming an improved bleed precedure with it, too, so we'll see.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

What are people using with the Fox Transfer? Since it requires the cable head at the post, what lever are ya'll using that has a pinch screw at the lever?


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> What are people using with the Fox Transfer? Since it requires the cable head at the post, what lever are ya'll using that has a pinch screw at the lever?


I have a transfer and started with their own overbar remote mounted to a lindaret's remount device. It worked just fine.

Then I was gifted a WT remote and I like it much better. Mainly because of the increased surface area of the paddle and the additional leverage that the paddle provides.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

I've got a Fox Transfer external on my Knolly Endorphin and the WT ReMote works perfectly with it.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

kevinboyer said:


> I've got a Fox Transfer external on my Knolly Endorphin and the WT ReMote works perfectly with it.


Out of curiosity, which levers are you guys using? I've got a Transfer and go back and forth but think that I prefer the slightly firmer action and shorter throw of the standard lever. We call out both as compatible- just wondering which you've chosen (and what you think).


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

I've got the standard lever on all 3 of my bikes Marc, and have no complaints at all. My LBS mechanic who builds all of my bikes is very impressed with them as well, but can't afford to put one on his bike so maybe I'll spring for one for him for all that he's done for me over the years.


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## cmarshack (Jul 24, 2007)

durkind said:


> Has anyone switched from Fox thumb remote to Wolftooth? Is it that much smoother? Thanks


I have and yes it is that much smoother! It is hands down a better design.

The pivot point on the Fox forces the cable to bend at 90 deg where the ReMote has a large fulcrum that is simply better designed and much, much smoother.

The Fox also sticks out forward past the brake reservoir, and I broke the micro adjustor on my Fox because of this, again poor design.

Don't get me wrong, the Fox lever was the best I have ever used and I really liked it...until the ReMote came out.

An unfortunate event had me looking for a new remote and I could not be happier with the Wolftooth ReMote.







ooops


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Oops indeed. How did you do that? I have the same bars which I though of as bomb proof. Until I saw your photo.


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## the-ninth (Nov 1, 2013)

cmarshack said:


> An unfortunate event had me looking for a new remote and I could not be happier with the Wolftooth ReMote.


Ouch! Just a couple of days ago I could not get my mind off carbon during a long and gruesome climb. But hearing about a broken chainstay during an after-ride beer and then seeing this picture makes me feel good about aluminum again.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

CrozCountry said:


> Oops indeed. How did you do that? I have the same bars which I though of as bomb proof. Until I saw your photo.


Same bars here too. Wondering if the brake mount clamp was over torqued.


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## cmarshack (Jul 24, 2007)

CrozCountry said:


> Oops indeed. How did you do that? I have the same bars which I though of as bomb proof. Until I saw your photo.





the-ninth said:


> Ouch! Just a couple of days ago I could not get my mind off carbon during a long and gruesome climb. But hearing about a broken chainstay during an after-ride beer and then seeing this picture makes me feel good about aluminum again.





Stalkerfiveo said:


> Same bars here too. Wondering if the brake mount clamp was over torqued.


Sorry, do not want to de-rail this thread.

The bars broke because I had a head-to-head run in on a trail and our bars hit really hard. I actually ordered a new set because I heard creaking in my bars, but could see no visible damage. This happened while pulling up really hard on a bunny hop on the way to the trail head. I hit the pavement, Fox remote did too...could have been way worse if this had happened five minutes later at full trail speed.

Now back to the scheduled program...


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

cmarshack said:


> ...An unfortunate event had me looking for a new remote and I could not be happier with the Wolftooth ReMote.
> View attachment 1137362


Dang- that's a nasty break. Glad that it happened when and how it did, that could have been really, really bad.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Out of curiosity, which levers are you guys using? I've got a Transfer and go back and forth but think that I prefer the slightly firmer action and shorter throw of the standard lever. We call out both as compatible- just wondering which you've chosen (and what you think).


I'm using the shorter lever. I'm an i-spec ii guy so I shied away from ordering the new lever, after seeing WT's recommendation matrix. But after seeing the pic of that exact setup earlier in this thread, I might give it a go.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Just dealt with an issue with the wolftooth. The barrel adjuster is very long, and made of soft aluminum. When compared to one from a shifter, it seems to be around twice as long. At some point, I bent the barrel adjuster and could no longer turn it to tighten or loosen. I don't think this would be an issue if it was shorter OR made of steel, but being long and aluminum allows leverage to do it's thing. Replaced it with a shorter steel one from an old shifter, seems much better. Otherwise, it's still pretty darn good.


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## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

Mine bent as well earlier this year. Replaced it with one from a broken Saint shifter and it does seem more solid.


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## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Out of curiosity, which levers are you guys using? I've got a Transfer and go back and forth but think that I prefer the slightly firmer action and shorter throw of the standard lever. We call out both as compatible- just wondering which you've chosen (and what you think).


im on the 9point8 digit, so the remote ls.

two things i do wish for is that the matchmaker was longer so the remote doesn't sit so high up. i have the matchmaker installed in the lowest position possible and the lever is still pretty high. and i wish i could slide the lever more inboard(toward the stem). i know it's adjustable and i have it installed as far inboard as possible, but it's still too far outboard. maybe a combination of these two adjustments would be helpful


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

Jayem said:


> Replaced it with a shorter steel one from an old shifter, seems much better. Otherwise, it's still pretty darn good.





amish_matt said:


> Mine bent as well earlier this year. Replaced it with one from a broken Saint shifter and it does seem more solid.


Since y'all have already done this...can we just swap the whole barrel adjuster out with a standard one for a shifter or Shimano RD? Haven't looked at it yet, but I'd rather replace it preemptively than wait for it to fail, since this may be another thing that's just a matter of time. 
If so, I think those barrel adjusters are about $4 online.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Jayem said:


> Just dealt with an issue with the wolftooth. The barrel adjuster is very long, and made of soft aluminum. When compared to one from a shifter, it seems to be around twice as long. At some point, I bent the barrel adjuster and could no longer turn it to tighten or loosen. I don't think this would be an issue if it was shorter OR made of steel, but being long and aluminum allows leverage to do it's thing. Replaced it with a shorter steel one from an old shifter, seems much better. Otherwise, it's still pretty darn good.





OwenM said:


> Since y'all have already done this...can we just swap the whole barrel adjuster out with a standard one for a shifter or Shimano RD? Haven't looked at it yet, but I'd rather replace it preemptively than wait for it to fail, since this may be another thing that's just a matter of time.
> If so, I think those barrel adjusters are about $4 online.


Jayem & OwenM,
Sorry about that :-\ We did transition to a stainless barrel adjuster earlier this year. The aluminum worked great on the Tanpan but -surprise- mountain bikers are more likely to tweak the softer adjusters. If anyone bends an early one shoot customer service ([email protected]) an e-mail and we'll get you taken care of! Or you can just cannibalize an old derailleur- they're pretty standard M5 adjusters.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

useport80 said:


> im on the 9point8 digit, so the remote ls.
> 
> two things i do wish for is that the matchmaker was longer so the remote doesn't sit so high up. i have the matchmaker installed in the lowest position possible and the lever is still pretty high. and i wish i could slide the lever more inboard(toward the stem). i know it's adjustable and i have it installed as far inboard as possible, but it's still too far outboard. maybe a combination of these two adjustments would be helpful


Aah, the position discussion. We went back and forth (and back and forth) on this and some of the guys at 9point8 really like where the MatchMaker X base put their lever. I hear you- the action is light enough and I'd rather not feel it when riding so tend to use just the tip of my thumb, which means that the 22mm bar clamps work better for me and as a rule will give the most mounting flexibility at the expense of tidiness. We do sell the bar clamp kits separately if you'd like to change yours out- they're on the same page as the replaceable axles and screws.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

OwenM said:


> ...I think those barrel adjusters are about $4 online.


$3 here 

Just pull yours off and check if it's aluminum before replacing- we really haven't seen problems with the stainless ones.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

OwenM said:


> Since y'all have already done this...can we just swap the whole barrel adjuster out with a standard one for a shifter or Shimano RD? Haven't looked at it yet, but I'd rather replace it preemptively than wait for it to fail, since this may be another thing that's just a matter of time.
> If so, I think those barrel adjusters are about $4 online.


I'm sure you could find some at a bike shop in their spares/salvage bins for $0.0, at least you should be able to, maybe convince them it's going to a good cause/recycle.

Thanks Marc, not necessary since I already fixed it, but thanks for acknowledging the issue. I've had more than a few FS bikes with obnoxiously long bolts that would bend no matter what you did, just because leverage eventually wins (but in this case it's leverage and exposure obviously). Sounds like you guys are on top of it.


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## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Jayem & OwenM,
> Sorry about that :-\ We did transition to a stainless barrel adjuster earlier this year. The aluminum worked great on the Tanpan but -surprise- mountain bikers are more likely to tweak the softer adjusters. If anyone bends an early one shoot customer service ([email protected]) an e-mail and we'll get you taken care of! Or you can just cannibalize an old derailleur- they're pretty standard M5 adjusters.


does the 9point8 digit have the stainless barrel adjuster? how can i tell?


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

Jayem said:


> I'm sure you could find some at a bike shop in their spares/salvage bins for $0.0, at least you should be able to, maybe convince them it's going to a good cause/recycle..


Thanks. Just wanted to check if it's a universal fit(I've never needed to change one), and threw that last part in for people who might not have a shop close by:thumbsup:


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Jayem & OwenM,
> Sorry about that :-\ We did transition to a stainless barrel adjuster earlier this year. The aluminum worked great on the Tanpan but -surprise- mountain bikers are more likely to tweak the softer adjusters. If anyone bends an early one shoot customer service ([email protected]) an e-mail and we'll get you taken care of! Or you can just cannibalize an old derailleur- they're pretty standard M5 adjusters.


My remote was a birthday gift from my wife. That birthday happened in late January and the remote was purchased through jenson. Mine does have a steel adjuster so it seems that the changeover happened pretty early in the year.

Jayem... are you running a WT with your revive?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

useport80 said:


> does the 9point8 digit have the stainless barrel adjuster? how can i tell?


9point8s should all be stainless. A magnet will be your best indicator- they're both silvery and it's hard to tell unless they're side by side.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

incubus said:


> My remote was a birthday gift from my wife. That birthday happened in late January and the remote was purchased through jenson. Mine does have a steel adjuster so it seems that the changeover happened pretty early in the year.
> 
> Jayem... are you running a WT with your revive?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No, the WT is on a Transfer, which isn't nearly as nice as the Revive in general. The Revive remote is also very nice, similar to the WT, a little less bulky and integrates a little better with my levers, but in that case the levers are Ispec II instead of the Ispec B I use with the WT. If you are considering the Revive post, I'd get their remote with it. All high quality stuff.


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## farfromovin (Apr 18, 2009)

I have a WT LA remote on a Thomson post. Coming from a leaky Reverb Stealth the cable remotes are definitely different feeling.
I installed it with Thomson cable and housing at first but it was too flexy. Then I installed a new cable and shift housing to try and firm it up a bit. I snugged the cable at the WT remote and after using it once get initial slop in the lever movement. I tightened up that play at initial install, rode it a few times and the slop immediately came back.
Just tightened the slack again on the remote and have yet to ride it. I guess my question is how much slop is normal with cable actuated dropper remotes? Shouldn't it be as crisp as a shift lever, especially if using an indexed shift cable housing?


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## net wurker (Sep 13, 2007)

Hey Wolf Tooth, can you guys post a couple of pix here showing the new limited run "stealth/engraved" LA remote, along side a "regular" LA remote? Or do you have these pix on your site?


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

its on the site


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Jayem said:


> No, the WT is on a Transfer, which isn't nearly as nice as the Revive in general. The Revive remote is also very nice, similar to the WT, a little less bulky and integrates a little better with my levers, but in that case the levers are Ispec II instead of the Ispec B I use with the WT. If you are considering the Revive post, I'd get their remote with it. All high quality stuff.


Great. Appreciate the info. I just ordered a revive but it seems that US bike shop inventory is bar clamp mount only. The I-spec ii adapter wasn't available for purchase (through jenson anyway). So I'll either run my WT or source the triggy i-spec adapter elsewhere.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

farfromovin said:


> I have a WT LA remote on a Thomson post. Coming from a leaky Reverb Stealth the cable remotes are definitely different feeling.
> I installed it with Thomson cable and housing at first but it was too flexy. Then I installed a new cable and shift housing to try and firm it up a bit. I snugged the cable at the WT remote and after using it once get initial slop in the lever movement. I tightened up that play at initial install, rode it a few times and the slop immediately came back.
> Just tightened the slack again on the remote and have yet to ride it. I guess my question is how much slop is normal with cable actuated dropper remotes? Shouldn't it be as crisp as a shift lever, especially if using an indexed shift cable housing?


Your cable's fixed points at the actuator and remote aren't changing, but it isn't unusual to have to tighten a cable a couple of times soon after initial installation, as they do stretch. I've always gone back and pulled the cable tight after the first use, or had to redo it immediately after installing. I suppose the cable could also be slipping if you're not tightening it down enough at the remote, which is entirely possible with the provided bolt. 
I reset the cable at the ReMote a couple of times within a day or so of installing it, and have since only played with it to get the tension where I want it without using any adjustment. That's the beauty of that retention screw vs. a cable end. You can pull the cable 'til it actuates the dropper and then back off just enough that it works with the slightest push. I've got mine set so tight that I can actuate the dropper just by screwing out the barrel adjuster.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

I just got this:




























It's called BikeYoke. It feels very high quality like but the KS Shock Southpaw got better ergonomics IMO.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

I'm loving my Wolf Tooth LA on my Fox Transfer but I really wish there was a way to change the angle so the lever sat under the bar more. I'm using the IS A/B attachment method with my Saint brakes.


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## farfromovin (Apr 18, 2009)

OwenM said:


> Your cable's fixed points at the actuator and remote aren't changing, but it isn't unusual to have to tighten a cable a couple of times soon after initial installation, as they do stretch. I've always gone back and pulled the cable tight after the first use, or had to redo it immediately after installing. I suppose the cable could also be slipping if you're not tightening it down enough at the remote, which is entirely possible with the provided bolt.
> I reset the cable at the ReMote a couple of times within a day or so of installing it, and have since only played with it to get the tension where I want it without using any adjustment. That's the beauty of that retention screw vs. a cable end. You can pull the cable 'til it actuates the dropper and then back off just enough that it works with the slightest push. I've got mine set so tight that I can actuate the dropper just by screwing out the barrel adjuster.


You nailed it, the cable was slipping. I managed to crank the set screw down some more without stripping it and it's holding now. Sweet, now I'm going riding!


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

incubus said:


> Great. Appreciate the info. I just ordered a revive but it seems that US bike shop inventory is bar clamp mount only. The I-spec ii adapter wasn't available for purchase (through jenson anyway). So I'll either run my WT or source the triggy i-spec adapter elsewhere.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I ordered another Revive to replace the problematic Transfer I'm going to try to warranty. Looking at my WT, I think I can make that work with the Revive, since you can clamp the cable, it doesn't really matter what end of the cable is being clamped, rather than the Triggy that will only work with the barrel nut end (but the Triggy is excellent). For the same reason, to keep the lever integrated with my brake lever, I'm going to do the same thing. I don't anticipate any big issues.

The feel of the Triggy+Revive is much better than the Transfer+WT, much smoother, easier to modulate speed of return from slow to real fast, where the Transfer seems to "max out" fairly slow. This has to be the seatpost though and not the lever.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Jayem said:


> I ordered another Revive to replace the problematic Transfer I'm going to try to warranty. Looking at my WT, I think I can make that work with the Revive


Yep, works like magic. That is all.


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## StumpyXXL (Mar 16, 2015)

Looking to explore new options for a dropper post. I have a Spec Command Post Blacklite and I am fed up with the servicing. I had to add air often, broken collet that was $100 to service, and it has been rebuilt 2-3 times which cost I believe $60 each time. I have paid more than the value of this thing to service it. 

I looking for an affordable, low to zero maintenance dropper, externally routed, 30.6mm seatpost, and 125mm or greater length. I thought the 3 position and 125mm Blacklite was sufficient but I am interested in an multiple position and 150mm length as I ride a XXL frame and have a 36" inseam.

I'm interested in what KS has to offer as my LBS recommended them and best of all their office is near by if it every needs servicing. 2 year warranty is great and confidence inspiring but just browsing on here and looks like people have had problems.


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## gregnash (Jul 17, 2010)

StumpyXXL said:


> Looking to explore new options for a dropper post. I have a Spec Command Post Blacklite and I am fed up with the servicing. I had to add air often, broken collet that was $100 to service, and it has been rebuilt 2-3 times which cost I believe $60 each time. I have paid more than the value of this thing to service it.
> 
> I looking for an affordable, low to zero maintenance dropper, externally routed, 30.6mm seatpost, and 125mm or greater length. I thought the 3 position and 125mm Blacklite was sufficient but I am interested in an multiple position and 150mm length as I ride a XXL frame and have a 36" inseam.
> 
> I'm interested in what KS has to offer as my LBS recommended them and best of all their office is near by if it every needs servicing. 2 year warranty is great and confidence inspiring but just browsing on here and looks like people have had problems.


I am in your shoes and have decided to go with the PNW Components Cascade. Should be here this weekend and supposed to be easily serviceable, externally routed similar to the LEV/LEV DX and only $230 (vs. $300+ for the LEV). I had been looking at the LEV DX as I currently have an older eTen that I am going to replace but all the reports of the seatpost head breaking, squeaking incessantly or other issues has shyed me away.


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## gleetrevino (Aug 28, 2014)

Gravity Turbo with wolf tooth remote is bomb proof and easy to maintain/rebuild. I run mine without the boot riders hate so much and have had no problems although I rarely ride in muddy conditions. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


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## philstone (Mar 14, 2011)

I got my WT ReMote in December. Took it off the other day to swap bikes, only to discover that not only had the barrel adjuster bent, but the bearings were shot as well.. bit disappointed after only 5 months or so of use.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

philstone said:


> I got my WT ReMote in December. Took it off the other day to swap bikes, only to discover that not only had the barrel adjuster bent, but the bearings were shot as well.. bit disappointed after only 5 months or so of use.


They have a new barrel adjuster made of steel because people were complaining about the aluminum ones, ask them to send you one.
The bearing only lasting 5 months is a bummer, are they RS (rubber shield), or they don't have any kind of shield?
But I bet you can get a new one for less then 3 bucks, but this time get one with RS.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

philstone said:


> I got my WT ReMote in December. Took it off the other day to swap bikes, only to discover that not only had the barrel adjuster bent, but the bearings were shot as well.. bit disappointed after only 5 months or so of use.


Phil,

Sorry- I've been out of the office this week and slow to catch up. It sounds like Todd has been in touch and will take care of you. Out of curiosity, when you say "shot" do you mean loose/wobbly or siezed/gritty? We had an overzealous assembler that was adding a little too much adhesive to the bearing (we bond rather than press to keep the bearing smooth), but that's been addressed internally. If it's gone loose I wouldn't mind seeing it back so that we can run it to ground with our bearing supplier.

And Aglo is right- we swapped to stainless barrel adjusters a while back. The alloy were fine on the Tanpan but there's a bit more force acting on the fixed ReMote- especially if the bars get spun 'round in a crash. [email protected] will take care of you there too!


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## a_double (Apr 14, 2013)

I'll be running a WT ReMote on a Fox Transfer for my next build. Can anyone please suggest a good cable housing for this? Thanks in advance.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

a_double said:


> I'll be running a WT ReMote on a Fox Transfer for my next build. Can anyone please suggest a good cable housing for this? Thanks in advance.


As opposed to bad cable housing?


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Shimano sp41. The ONLY cable housing.
Review: Shimano SP41 Shift Housing | BIKE Magazine


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

alexbn921 said:


> Shimano sp41. The ONLY cable housing.
> Review:Â*Shimano SP41 Shift Housing | BIKE Magazine


Interestingly it says that it is pre greased. I always run housings dry.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

CrozCountry said:


> Interestingly it says that it is pre greased. I always run housings dry.


Apparently is a very thin layer of silicone based grease.
I always have the impression that's dry, but it works extremely well.
I also use it with the Shimano polymer shift cable, steel coated with polymer.
I installed my Revive with the leftovers of SP41 and a Shimano polymer shift cable and I extremely happy with it.


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## a_double (Apr 14, 2013)

@alexbn921 Thanks bud!


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

Anyone out there using a Bike Yoke 2-by dropper remote? Ideally with a Thomson? 

I just installed a BikeYoke Revive and Triggy and holy s&^% the stuff is out of this world smooth. I haven't tried the Triggy remote with a Fox/Thomson/etc, but its freaking awesome w/ the Revive.

Works so well that its got me thinking about changing the remote on my other bike from stock Thomson to BikeYoke (will need to keep the Thomson dropper since the frame is external routing only).


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

InertiaMan said:


> Anyone out there using a Bike Yoke 2-by dropper remote? Ideally with a Thomson?
> 
> I just installed a BikeYoke Revive and Triggy and holy s&^% the stuff is out of this world smooth. I haven't tried the Triggy remote with a Fox/Thomson/etc, but its freaking awesome w/ the Revive.
> 
> Works so well that its got me thinking about changing the remote on my other bike from stock Thomson to BikeYoke (will need to keep the Thomson dropper since the frame is external routing only).


I have both the wolftooth and triggy, the wolftooth is a tiny bit better, due to the larger lever IMO, which gives you a little more force. The triggy isn't far behind though.


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## Cayenne_Pepa (Dec 18, 2007)

I tried them all.... the ReMote wins, in my book. 

Wolf Tooth listened...


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

100%Carbon said:


> Here is some great protection for your post Postguard > Home


you gotta be kidding me

On 150mm posts the rear tire will probably touch the fender on many frames when using full travel (that is when going downhill and thus dropping the post...)

Furthermore a dropper post is not a fork even though they look similar, they are not dropped that often during a ride and seldom fail due to mud getting inside but rather rider weight or user error (like constantly pulling the bike by the saddle when post is fully dropped)

wrong thread btw


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Couldn't wait any longer for the Digit (MMX version). Rode with the WT LA linked to the Fall Line......mmmmmmm, butter. I like the Wolf design better anyway, reminds me of my favorite trail companion:










(I need to get a shot of her showing teeth...it's uncanny)

I do appreciate KindShock for providing a 1X option when none other was available, but I won't be missing the Southpaw any time soon. I can't imagine the Digit is TOO much better than the ReMote LA.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

I would pet her to death... Damn she's cute


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Hawseman said:


>


I want that dog

Kind Shock South Paw is superior lever!


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## cmarshack (Jul 24, 2007)

Steel Calf said:


> you gotta be kidding me
> 
> On 150mm posts the rear tire will probably touch the fender on many frames when using full travel (that is when going downhill and thus dropping the post...)
> 
> ...


Haha, what a fantastic solution to a problem that does not exist!


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Aglo said:


> I would pet her to death... Damn she's cute


damn it edit your post

I constantly read "I would put her to death..." wondering why someone would be soo evil

I know you didn't say that but it still bothers me...


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## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

So I got the Digit from 9point8 which is pretty much the ReMote LA, using it with a Fall Line dropper. Took it apart and put it back together, and installed it I-Spec B. Lever bit too long for that install so I might switch to the bar clamp soon. Then found the forum here, thanks Marc for sharing the engineering details of the design. And here are my findings for those that prefer vids


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## ninjanoir78 (Nov 21, 2016)

HI, 

I guess when we buy another remote lever we need to change the cable? I have the fox remote and the cable is cutted very short under the lever, impossible to pull the cable enough?


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## askjasonbowen (Apr 27, 2014)

For such a small part. I am surprised that every company in the market thus far prices it above USD $30. I've been looking for a X-Fusion HILO BAT remote alone and can't seem to find it for sale. Thought that even the low spec units like XLC or PNW would be more accessible to buy.


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

> Anyone out there using a Bike Yoke 2-by dropper remote? Ideally with a Thomson?


Yep. With a Bike Yoke Revive, though. The action is incredibly smooth as well. I had a KS Lev 150mm external before the Bike Yoke Revive, and the KS Lev's vertical remote is shorter than the 2x remote. For me, the longer 2x remote causes some problems due to its length. I run a front shifter, and I couldn't quite get the KS Lev remote where I wanted it due to interference with the shifter and brake levers. With the 2x remote, the problem is worse. I had to set up the 2x remote so that it just clears the end of the shifter when I depress the 2x remote. As a result, my thumb hits the shifter when I depress the 2x remote. The contact does not cause the shifter to shift gears, so that isn't a problem. I'll have to get used to my thumb hitting the shifter.



> I do appreciate KindShock


I don't appreciate KS for anything. They've screwed over so many mtbr members, their products should be boycotted. My KS Lev 150mm external was a reliable post, and using the "DIY KS Service" thread I serviced the post myself when needed, but I will never buy another KS product again because of how badly they've treated customers.


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## alexdi (Jun 25, 2016)

askjasonbowen said:


> For such a small part. I am surprised that every company in the market thus far prices it above USD $30. I've been looking for a X-Fusion HILO BAT remote alone and can't seem to find it for sale. Thought that even the low spec units like XLC or PNW would be more accessible to buy.


FYI, the BAT is now available from multiple retailers from $32-35. I just bought one to pair with a Giant Contact Switch SL (along with a KS cable stop and set screw) because the XLoc Full Sprint on my bars gets in the way of everything else. It'll be a week before I can try it out on a trail, but anything would improve on the stock Giant lever.


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## nochamois (Feb 14, 2017)

Not sure which thread this belongs in, but FYI:
The WT ReMote breakway replacement disc fits nicely inside the OneUp EDC storage tube. 

Its nice to have a spare when you are only 15 min into your ride and the breakway feature of the remote works as designed, and you now have a 600g static seatpost.


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

Jayem said:


> I have both the wolftooth and triggy, the wolftooth is a tiny bit better, due to the larger lever IMO, which gives you a little more force. The triggy isn't far behind though.


Good. I'm gonna have to give up my ReMote for something that fits directly onto a Matchmaker(Magura's Shiftmix, anyway) without an adapter if I want to keep from using an extra clamp. I won't be without cable adjustment at the remote after using the WT, and that rear feed Triggy is about the only option, unless my Google-fu is weak today.
'Course that extra clamp isn't really hurting anything, but it's...not right. 
Get off my bar!


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

OwenM said:


> Good. I'm gonna have to give up my ReMote for something that fits directly onto a [Magura brake] without an adapter if I want to keep from using an extra clamp...


You didn't hear it from me, but if you can handle #clamplife for a couple of months you might want to sit tight.


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## Nismomike (Dec 7, 2013)

Nismomike said:


> I spec II with Wolftooth ReMote. Love it!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Over 3 years later, 3 different bikes, 4 different dropper posts, countless crashes and drops, and still works like new. 









Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Nismomike said:


> Over 3 years later, 3 different bikes, 4 different dropper posts, countless crashes and drops, and still works like new.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Identical set up, identical experience. Hard to picture what would come along and beat it. Wireless eventually I guess.


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## distortion10 (Mar 5, 2011)

WHALENARD said:


> Identical set up, identical experience. Hard to picture what would come along and beat it. Wireless eventually I guess.


It really is hard to beat. I have the light action Wolftooth paired with a Bike Yoke Revive. The dropper activation is lightning fast and very very easy. Blows the stock Revive lever out of the water. Also had the same WT paired with a Transfer post and it was almost as soft as the Revive. The lever is now on its 3rd bike and has worked perfectly for 6k ish miles and shows no signs of wear, not even on the thumb lever.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

I want to thank Mike and everyone else for sharing your experiences with the ReMote- we put a lot of effort into that product but I will say that luck played some part in its ongoing compatibility and adaptability. 

And I have to credit Wolf Tooth for making almost every single part available as a spare- it would be easier for them just to stock complete replacements but we share the belief that it's important to make durable and serviceable products that can adapt to riders' changing needs. Three years ago outlasting a dropper was an admittedly low bar, but it's really gratifying to see them transferred from post to post, bike to bike. 

As we consider a refresh, is there anything that you'd like to see? We could add an underside bearing cover, but given that it would hold debris against the bearing it would be a cosmetic upgrade- gravity and the occasional hose-off do a good job of keeping the Enduro bearings smooth. The breakaway axle is controversial in some corners, but our numbers suggest that riders get an average of seven seasons per axle and we've beefed it up slightly as a running change so that number is trending upward.

Thanks again guys!


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## Nismomike (Dec 7, 2013)

One adjustment I wish I could make is throw adjust. Currently I'm using a KS-Lev Ci and it only takes about 20° of lever rotation to fully disengage the dropper brake. Beyond that 20° is not only wasted movement, but it feels spongy and the feedback pressure increases. It eventually comes to an imprecise stop at about 30° and sort of feels like stretching a rubberband just before it snaps and flies across the room lol. It would be awesome if I had an adjustable, solid precise stop at say 23°. Would likely be easier on the cable, barrel adjuster, dropper internals, and require even less torque on the 3mm cable clamping bolt.

Thanks again for designing products that stand the test of time.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

How about an adjustable fulcrum or some such? Or perhaps just a lever you could adjust in/out length wise. You could quasi address what he said^ /leverage/adjustability in one feature. Just spitballing


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

Nismomike said:


> One adjustment I wish I could make is throw adjust. Currently I'm using a KS-Lev Ci and it only takes about 20° of lever rotation to fully disengage the dropper brake. Beyond that 20° is not only wasted movement


Same here. I prefer a dropper lever with a hard stop just beyond the point at which the post is actuated.
Thanks.
=sParty


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I've got the Wolf Tooth also. Regular (i spec b) and Light Action (i spec II). Didn't find the LA feeling all that different. Both levers just work...and work well.


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## MattMay (Dec 24, 2013)

Wolf Tooth for the win. All my bikes have one. Does exactly as promised in a crash, and replacing parts is a no brainer.


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## Xgecko (Oct 12, 2019)

*PNW Loam lever*

I have Loam Lever controlling a PNW Rainer dropper and I couldn't be happier. This combo replaced a Fall Line that was at best tempermwntal

View attachment 1294743


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## Smackem (Sep 2, 2019)

PNW if you’re a gloveless rider.

Wolf tooth for gloved, and repairing.

No other levers matter.


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

post moved... because I don't know how threads work on MTBR...


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

A little positive addition to the conversation. I gotta give some kudos to the Jagwire dropper cable kit improving my lever feel a whole bunch.

https://teamdicky.blogspot.com/2019/11/smoothing-my-droopy.html


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Marc Lindarets said:


> As we consider a refresh, is there anything that you'd like to see? We could add an underside bearing cover, but given that it would hold debris against the bearing it would be a cosmetic upgrade- gravity and the occasional hose-off do a good job of keeping the Enduro bearings smooth. The breakaway axle is controversial in some corners, but our numbers suggest that riders get an average of seven seasons per axle and we've beefed it up slightly as a running change so that number is trending upward.


Bearing cap: If it going to trap dirt, than no. Alternatively you can make it optional, a part that you can remove for those who think its less durable.

Axle: How about multiple aftermarket axles in different strengths? My current lever is super strong and thats how I would like it. I think most people have the same calculation. They would like no breakpoint, even if it means that a maga crash will destroy the whole thing. Let's get real here, its $60 part or bikes that cost a few thousands.

Travel limit adjustment: An idea brough by someone else above is a super nice feature. In most droppers once you pull enough cable to release, anything beyond that just stretches and abuse the system. I am sure over stressing the cable and housing is causing premature wear, I am running through dropper cables about twice as fast as derailleur cables.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Another "vote" for WolfTooth. I use nothing but.


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## Hurricane Jeff (Jan 1, 2006)

I just put a OneUp lever, with the matchmaker mount, that replaced that stupid KS lever that I ran for a couple of years, what a world of difference. The ackward KS lever was sometimes so hard to push that I wouldn't be able to drop my post every time I wanted. The OneUp's action is so smooth and light and its design is very close to matching my Sram trigger shifter. Should have done this sooner.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Dicky,

I'll second that- feel-wise, the Jagwire kit is like going from the standard to the LA, but you keep the nice short throw. Shimano SP-41 had been my go-to, but the Jagwire kit is miles ahead. I recommend it for most installs but especially if you're running a Transfer or BikeYoke where either the LA or standard lever work.

Marc


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Nismomike said:


> One adjustment I wish I could make is throw adjust. Currently I'm using a KS-Lev Ci and it only takes about 20° of lever rotation to fully disengage the dropper brake. Beyond that 20° is not only wasted movement, but it feels spongy and the feedback pressure increases. It eventually comes to an imprecise stop at about 30° and sort of feels like stretching a rubberband just before it snaps and flies across the room lol. It would be awesome if I had an adjustable, solid precise stop at say 23°. Would likely be easier on the cable, barrel adjuster, dropper internals, and require even less torque on the 3mm cable clamping bolt.
> 
> Thanks again for designing products that stand the test of time.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


Interesting- so it sounds like the consensus seems to be that you'd prefer an adjustable limit (stop) to an adjustable start?

Are folks only adjusting the barrel to where cable slack is juuuust removed? We did our best to put the lever stop before most posts' internal stops for the reasons folks cite- but there are so many on the market that some are going to hit the internal stop before the lever runs out of travel. The only issue I can see with something like this is riders not reading the instructions (that's most of us, to be fair) and winding up with a slow post because they're not fully opening the internal valve.


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## }{yBr!D^ (May 23, 2019)

I've used the remote provided by my dropper, SDG Tellis and it's amazing.. My wife's old raceface dropper's remote was horrible and eventually broke. Swapped it out for a Tellis as well... Quick response and light input to get it to function. The bad part is, it doesn't play nice with matchmaker but it's a small trade-off, I suppose.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Interesting- so it sounds like the consensus seems to be that you'd prefer an adjustable limit (stop) to an adjustable start?


Both, like brakes levers. See my previous comment as to why.


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## chadbrochills (Aug 9, 2018)

Love my PNW dropper remote. The OEM RaceFace one the bike came with was complete junk. My buddy recently got a Wolftooth remote for his Jeffsy. I'd say it's equally as nice as my PNW.


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## Cayenne_Pepa (Dec 18, 2007)

Stock FOX Transfer dropper remote is pretty slick too. It's like a mini Wolftooth or PNW paddle.


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