# Just got a Nuvinci N360



## Volvoman62 (Sep 28, 2010)

Well I just got my bike rolling a couple days ago all laced up with a nuvinci. All I can say is I am amazed at how it feels. It feels like I'm on a single speed that is always the right ratio so nice. I put it on a old Intense Uzzi DH so weight wasn't really an issue but the whole bike is prob under 40 pounds. It seems to be holding up wheel I can really crank on it and I weigh 285 and I don't feel any slipping or anything. If you have a chance to try one do it but you will probably want to get one.


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## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

Congrats!

If you're using Surly Tuggnuts with the necessary NuVinci-supplied-non-turn washers, you might find this relevant:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=654666


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## aTomOfAllTrades (Apr 22, 2010)

I actually just put one on my Karate Monkey for singletrack use as well. At some point I'll do a full write-up review of its performance, but overall I agree with your assessments. It's smooth and easy, shifter works well even when cranked on pretty heavily (so long as the cables are properly tensioned), and while there is extra drag up on the truing stand it is not noticeable on the trail. Definitely rides faster than my SS setup did (obviously due to having gear choices for the terrain), but on a couple 10+ mile rides so far I haven't noticed the extra weight except when shouldering the bike. Doesn't mind the rocks and roots and hard hits on a HT, really no issues thus far...some quirks perhaps and certainly not for everyone, but for me, well I won't be using derailers ever again on any of my bikes.


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## decipher (Aug 17, 2007)

Do you mind telling us the purchase price because I can't seem to find price info anywhere?

Thanks


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## aTomOfAllTrades (Apr 22, 2010)

It's all over web shops now that they've been distributed through QBP. I got mine for $294 at eBikeStop.com, but there are tons of shops ranging from $300-$400. I don't know of any wheelsets that are actually built with it, so far it's just the hub (plus shifter and all other necessary accessories, except for cable housing), but complete wheels will follow soon.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Looked after reading this thread.

http://bike.com/handspun-pavement-s...opZilla&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=ShopZilla

$500. Not bad for $400 hub but one source was $294. So some deals heading to Christmas!


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## aTomOfAllTrades (Apr 22, 2010)

Actually, that's the first-generation NuVinci hub (the N171). There are wheel builds for those, but none yet for the N360, which is a way, way better hub (and I liked the first one for what it was).


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Good to know. A bit of a weight difference there.


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## bikeisbetter (Aug 15, 2009)

Volvoman62 said:


> I put it on a old Intense Uzzi DH so weight wasn't really an issue but the whole bike is prob under 40 pounds. It seems to be holding up wheel I can really crank on it and I weigh 285 and I don't feel any slipping or anything.


Can you say anything about this hub efficiency? Although I'm afraid that, in your case, with efficiency robbing pedal bob, fat knobby tires and general higher rolling resistances due to weight any subtle differenced between NuVinci and classic geared hubs will be very difficult to distinguish.


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## aTomOfAllTrades (Apr 22, 2010)

I actually am going to put up a big post with inane amounts of detail about my experience with the hub on my bike, which will touch more on the efficiency. For now though, the short answer is: there is absolutely zero slipping or wasted motion with this hub (tested), but there is extra drag created by the shear-thickening fluid inside the hub as it passes between the spheres and discs. To me personally, it's not really noticeable while riding, but if you put the wheel on a truing stand and spin it, then you'll see it come to rest much faster than a standard freewheel hub because of that drag. 

Of course, I can't give you exact numbers on this, but from my personal observations while riding, it's not as bad as most nay-sayers are expecting it to be. I wouldn't recommend it to a time-trial racer, but racers would never be able to get past the additional 3-4 lbs by itself.


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## BrunoBB (Mar 12, 2009)

*Tooth (chainring x sprocket) for N360*

I´m from Brazil, a friend of mine will come to visit me at december and she said she could bring an N360 but i´ll have to buy other things as: cassete cog, chain tensioner, single chainring crank set, bottom bracket, single cassette sprocket... (what else?)

I have a full frame mtb. I don´t know what will be the best chainring tooth x sprocket tooth for my use (lots of hills). Can you help me?

Sorry for the bad english.


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## Volvoman62 (Sep 28, 2010)

As far as resistance goes when I was building the wheel I noticed a lot of drag when truing it maybe only like 1 or two full revolutions on a spin, but after about 75-100 miles it is amazing it does have a tiny bit of drag but nothing to bad.

I use a 34x18 which gives me a 1.88 ratio just above the minimum ratio of 1.8. It gets me down to about 25 gear inches and a top of around 90 so you will spin on fast downhill roads but i decided this wasn't an issue for me.


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## aTomOfAllTrades (Apr 22, 2010)

The minimum ratio of 1.8 is a general guideline meant to prevent people from damaging things by putting too much torque on the hub. Obviously, your weight, crank arm length, and wheel diameter will have a big impact on that as well. I have yet to test any lower than 32/18, but I've had zero slippage whatsoever and no damage (and I'm a 6'3" 215 lbs stand-up-and-mash rider).


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