# Which torque wrench to get?



## duder (Feb 25, 2004)

I am in the market for buying a torque wrench. I want one that will be good for stem face plate bolts, steerer clamp bolts and other low torque bicycle fasteners. I dont really want a beam type one as the other pre set (the ones that click) type ones seem more accurate. This craftsman one looks really nice and is on sale: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944593000
this one goes from 25-250in/lbs and is 3/8in drive
this pedros one also looks nice:
http://www.pedros.com/frames/tools.html

this one is from 20-200 in/lbs and is 1/4in dr.

any suggestions or experience with either of these? I'm leaning toward the craftsman one b/c a friend of mine has it and its a little cheaper, but maybe the pedros works better for really low torque b/c it is 1/4in drive?

thanks,
duder


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## Plum (Sep 14, 2004)

*Same boat here*

I'm in the same boat, considering the same wrenches. I've only seen the pedros ones at around $110 to $120, whereas the craftsman can be had for $65-$75 at retail prices, and it's a craftsman...

I have the 1/2" drive model of this same wrench, has worked well for the past several years, and I will probably end up with the 3/8 model as well. Craftsman sells a 2.5mm to 8 or 10mm 3/8 drive allen set to go with it, around $20.

Any other wrenches out there to consider, of the click variety, the beam type ones would be difficult to read when tightening the EBB set screws...

Plum


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## FrankinMich (Dec 17, 2005)

*As a matter of fact......*



duder said:


> I am in the market for buying a torque wrench. I want one that will be good for stem face plate bolts, steerer clamp bolts and other low torque bicycle fasteners. I dont really want a beam type one as the other pre set (the ones that click) type ones seem more accurate. This craftsman one looks really nice and is on sale: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944593000
> this one goes from 25-250in/lbs and is 3/8in drive
> this pedros one also looks nice:
> http://www.pedros.com/frames/tools.html
> ...


The beam type is actually the most accurate style of torque wrench. The pre-set clicker types are nice, but you need to be careful when using them on low torque applications. If you rotate them too quickly they will blow right past the pre-set release point and you will wind up over torquing the bolt. The 25-250 lbf-in range definitely covers the majority of torques on a bike, with the notable exception of crank bolts, cassette lock rings, and bottom bracket retaining rings. You really should buy two torque wrenches: 0-60 lbf-in (1/4" drive) and 0-600 lbf-in (3/8" drive). Park Tool makes beam types in both torque ranges -- total cost for both of them would be ~$75 plus shipping.


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## eman2 (May 3, 2004)

*go with the beam*

I would go with the beam. Less expensive and you don't have to worry about calibration.
Get the craftsman beam 0 to 600 in/lbs will cost about $30. Then Park tool makes a 0 to 60 in/lb model (I think thats the range).

I have a Mac tool dial 0 to 250 or 600 in/lb. I bought it off ebay and then wanted to calibrate it -- that was such a hassle. If I had to do it again -- I would go with the beam type.


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## bubbrubb (Jun 10, 2004)

i sold my pedro's within a few weeks of getting it. 

For what you pay, it looked and felt cheap. 

I upgraded and got a Snap-on torque screwdriver. The SOB isn't cheap, but it is perfect for bike-work


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## duder (Feb 25, 2004)

*park 0-60in lb torque wrench seems right*

I am leaning toward the park beam type tw-1 0-60in/lbs wrench because, while it doesn't go high enough for high torque parts it is probably perfect for small torque things in the 40in/lbs range. I at first was against the beam type ones but that is probably because I have only used a larger 3/8in drive craftsman one that wasn't great for low torques.

thanks for the help


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## Spin Cycle (Nov 6, 2004)

duder said:


> I am in the market for buying a torque wrench. I want one that will be good for stem face plate bolts, steerer clamp bolts and other low torque bicycle fasteners. I dont really want a beam type one as the other pre set (the ones that click) type ones seem more accurate. This craftsman one looks really nice and is on sale: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944593000
> this one goes from 25-250in/lbs and is 3/8in drive
> this pedros one also looks nice:
> http://www.pedros.com/frames/tools.html
> ...


I have the above sears model 25-250 inch lbs for a couple of years works for every bolt on my bikes except the reservoir covers on my Magura Marta SL's that are 7 inch #

Had it calibrated and it was dead on @ 50 inch # , Magura and syntace both have nice one's that are 1/4" drive but they are pricey$$$$


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## tootsjofus (Sep 13, 2005)

I got a no name inch/lb torque wrench, 3/8 drive on ebay for 14.99, including shipping. It is the same style as the cheaper style craftsman.


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## XCProphet (Aug 23, 2005)

*Craftsman Adjustable Torque*

I have the Craftsman top one, but I wish it were smaller. Buy those of interest, try them at same time, and see if their torques come close. Wonder if there a dealer that has torque wrenches packaged with SI hex sets.


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## kuna (Feb 25, 2005)

FrankinMich said:


> The beam type is actually the most accurate style of torque wrench. The pre-set clicker types are nice, but you need to be careful when using them on low torque applications. If you rotate them too quickly they will blow right past the pre-set release point and you will wind up over torquing the bolt. The 25-250 lbf-in range definitely covers the majority of torques on a bike, with the notable exception of crank bolts, cassette lock rings, and bottom bracket retaining rings. You really should buy two torque wrenches: 0-60 lbf-in (1/4" drive) and 0-600 lbf-in (3/8" drive). Park Tool makes beam types in both torque ranges -- total cost for both of them would be ~$75 plus shipping.


The beam types are not as reliable. The Shimano Tech Trailer which is at all the NORBA races, use Craftsman clicker types. They use two different models to cover the wide range of torques. You can even email the Shimano American guys and they will send you a list of torques for your bike.


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## KINBOY (May 23, 2004)

An idea is just to go by a local pawn shop or used tool place, I try to get the general tools there, saves some cash (to be used on future upgrades!)


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

kuna said:


> The beam types are not as reliable. The Shimano Tech Trailer which is at all the NORBA races, use Craftsman clicker types. They use two different models to cover the wide range of torques. You can even email the Shimano American guys and they will send you a list of torques for your bike.


Not as reliable? Bunk. A beam wrench counts on one thing only: the known bending properties of a steel beam of known diameter and length. That's it. Simple.

A clicker torque wrench attempts to do the same, but replaces the "known beam" with a "known spring", pre-tensioning dials, and ball bearings and a lever to make it click. A lot more going on and a lot more to go wrong.

What it boils down to is, a torque wrench is as accurate as the manufacturer makes it. Low dollar wrenches are going to have a tendency to be less reliable than high dollar wrenches (that includes beam, clicker and dial types).

I love a clicker in a higher torque application, such as automotive work, but the results of a soft click on a low-torque bike part isn't worth it.

My favorite are dial type: all the accuracy, simplicity and reliability of a beam wrench, in an enclosed box. These are great for low-torque applications.


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## Surfas (Sep 13, 2005)

How about Park Tool TW-3 torque wrench, this was discontinued, anybody knows anythinhg about that?


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## TrekFan (Apr 21, 2005)

what's wrong with this one?

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944690000

or this one:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...l=TOOL&pid=00944978000&subcat=Torque+Wrenches

either one looks perfect for biking apps.


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## BobL (Feb 20, 2004)

*This is the perfect bike specific*

Torque wrench

http://sheldonbrown.com/tork-grip.html

Works like a champ!


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## jdp526 (Apr 21, 2006)

I am interesting in purchasing another torque wrench for light duty low torque settings. The beam type I have from sears doesn't measure low torque, its in increments of 25 in/lbs, 0 to 600. I would like to buy the Park TW-1, 0-60 in/lbs, but I would rather find something locally, like sears, lowes, harbor, etc. Has anyone seen an inexpensive low torque beam model in your local hardware stores? Thanks, otherwise, I will mail order the Park one.


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## KINBOY (May 23, 2004)

Try canadian tire, the get odd stuff like that in, just a thought

KIN


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## sv_freya (Apr 18, 2006)

Beams are inhenrently more accurate if made well. They are simpler as well and do not require maintenance. However, the "standard" beam torque wrenches are ever so slightly harder to use, as they don't generally ratchet, and you need to be careful how you pull on the handle.

Ratchet torque wrenches are fine for most purposes (get a good one; the cheap ones are bunk). And they are easy to use IF YOU FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. however, they require maintenance and testing.

If you REALLY want perfect accuracy, get a "beam dial" torque wrench. (click on link)

It combines the pefect accuracy of a beam wrency with a "max torque" dial. And the design uses a separate beam for the torque reading, so you don't have to worry about hand position.


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## jdp526 (Apr 21, 2006)

*Beam style TW*

SV, would you say that the correct way to use the 'beam' style torque wrench is to allow handle to 'float' when you are pulling the handle? The older beam wrench I have has a handle that pivots on main beam so I guess you could get an inaccurate reading if you allow handle to torque against the main beam instead of allowing it to float.

BTW, I ordered the Park TW-1, 0-60 in/lbs, for light duty use. I have a teenager and it would be nice to have this wrench around for him to use to get a better feeling of light torquing. I have a couple of other torque wrenches but nothing that is accurate under 5 or 10 lbs.


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## cdad_martinez (Nov 14, 2004)

*Snap on*

The only torque wrench that will be accurate enough for stem bolts and such at such low torques will be a Snap on Digital. Beam and mechanical wrenches can very greatly between the reading and the actualy torque applied. The Digital has a more finite sensitivity and reading.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

cdad_martinez said:


> The only torque wrench that will be accurate enough for stem bolts and such at such low torques will be a Snap on Digital. Beam and mechanical wrenches can very greatly between the reading and the actualy torque applied. The Digital has a more finite sensitivity and reading.


What say we not make such egregiously gross generalizations?


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

jdp526 said:


> SV, would you say that the correct way to use the 'beam' style torque wrench is to allow handle to 'float' when you are pulling the handle? The older beam wrench I have has a handle that pivots on main beam so I guess you could get an inaccurate reading if you allow handle to torque against the main beam instead of allowing it to float.


You're correct. Since the beam wrench relies on the beam flexing a known amount when the load (your arm) is applied at a fixed point, the pivot in the handle helps to focus the load exactly where it needs to be.


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## sv_freya (Apr 18, 2006)

jdp526 said:


> SV, would you say that the correct way to use the 'beam' style torque wrench is to allow handle to 'float' when you are pulling the handle? The older beam wrench I have has a handle that pivots on main beam so I guess you could get an inaccurate reading if you allow handle to torque against the main beam instead of allowing it to float.


Yes. If the handle contacts the "inner" part of the beam (towards the bolt) you will apply more torque than is reflected in the readout.

If the handle contacts the "outer" part of the beam, you will apply less torque than is reflected in the readout.

You need to let the handle float. You also need to avoid twisting the wrench, though this isn't so hard.


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## johneracer (Mar 23, 2006)

I am in Aviation industry and we use ONLY snap-on and ARMSTRONG click type torque wrenches. They are available in many variations. I have (my fav) 3/8 drive 25in-220in. Plenty for most applications. Click type will give you a more consistent pattern than a beam type...come to think of it I have I have never seen anyone use a beam torque wrench in my industry. I guarantee if you get the beam, you will not like it.....And consistency is really a key. Say you are installing a rotor for a disc brake set up and need to torque the nuts to 120in/lbs . You want to torque all the bolts in a star pattern to exact same torque to avoid warping. Does it really matter if all are torqued to 123in/lbs or 118in/lbs?


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## johneracer (Mar 23, 2006)

almost forgot, dial gauge torque wrenches are also great and we use them to simulate continuous load not really for torquing (someone posted a pic). Also for small applications there is a small screwdriver type that is only good from 0in/lbs to 30in/lbs


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## Bawitdaba (Sep 9, 2005)

I'm a big craftsman guy because if you break it you can walk into any Sears and get a replacement...and I do break stuff, all the time...

:thumbsup:


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

johneracer said:


> I am in Aviation industry and we use ONLY snap-on and ARMSTRONG click type torque wrenches.


Nothing wrong with this -- but they are expensive, high quality wrenches and are being used in a regulatory environment, which means you're are regularly testing (calibrating if necessary) and certifying those wrenches to document their accuracy.

Contrast that to the home bicycle mechanic who, more often than not, is going to seek out the cheapest clicker they can find, and never have it certified.

There can be a big difference in the final result.



> I have never seen anyone use a beam torque wrench in my industry. I guarantee if you get the beam, you will not like it.....And consistency is really a key.


I have a beam and love it.

Sure, if you're overhauling a hot section or even torquing down a cylinder head in an automotive setting, a clicker is the best way to go due to the repetetive nature of the task.

But for infrequent use on a bicycle, nothing is wrong with a beam. I'd trust the accuracy of an inexpensive beam over an inexpensive clicker any day.

One of the desireable qualities of a beam is the ability to watch torque build. Great on slow, lower-torque applications -- bikes, for instance -- a situation where one may expect their cheap-o clicker to produce a "soft" (and unnoticed) click.



> dial gauge torque wrenches are also great and we use them to simulate continuous load not really for torquing


Just to clarify, though: Dial types are great for normal torque applications!


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## jdp526 (Apr 21, 2006)

I ordered the Park Tools TW-1 0-60 in/lb torque wrench for apprx $33. This beam-style TW is calibrated in 2.5 in/lb increments. Should be just fine for home mechanic. I looked at Sears, Northern, Harbor, Lowes, etc, and I just could not find a tw to measure low torque values. If I was a professional mechanic I would buy a dial-style or click-type Snap-On or such, but I don't think its necessary for home bike repairs.


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## 95Stumpy (Jul 29, 2005)

Just the answer I was looking for. I emailed park about their TW-1 and they told me that it was calibrated to 1 lb/ft increments. Which didn't make sense looking at the pics on several sites. Since your saying that it's in 2.5 lb/ft increments, I can go ahead and buy the craftmen's version at sears which is up to 75 lbs/ft calibrated at 2.5 lb/ft increments for 30 bucks. Plus it saves me shipping.


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## kevin6s (Jun 13, 2006)

Read the box closer, the Park Tools is 0-60 INCH (in.) pounds. The Craftsman are FOOT (ft.) pounds.


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## 95Stumpy (Jul 29, 2005)

Darnit, that does make a difference. Oh well. The Park tools it is. Thanks for the oversight correction kevin6s


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## kevin6s (Jun 13, 2006)

I believe Craftsman has some that are in./lbs but when comparing the $29 Craftsman to the $33 Park Tool (which is a fair comparison) the Craftsman only come in foot. If you jump to the $75 level, you can probably find an incher.


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## Pete E (Jul 16, 2006)

For the low end of the scale on a bike, would a wrench in the 5-20Nm be any good or is its low end (5Nm) not low enough?


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## 13pumps (Jun 16, 2006)

I am a pro mech for a living in avaition. I personnally own 6 Tq wrenchesof varying sizes from 100"lb to 300'LB. The assortment is made up of Mac, Snap-On, Craftsman in dial, beam and click type. Between my personnel and the shop we have in excess of 100 wrenches. All are required annual calibration by FAA and DOT.Botttom line is a beam is good as any other type as long as you get keep them CALIBRATED! I seriously doubt many people and LBS do. We have apprx 10% annually that require adjustments to bring back into tolerance.


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## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

13pumps said:


> Botttom line is a beam is good as any other type as long as you get keep them CALIBRATED!


How does one go about (re)calibrating a torque wrench? Is this something we DIYers can do ourselves? Or is special equipment required?


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## 13pumps (Jun 16, 2006)

We send ours to a calibration lab. All the dyi can do is compare his or her wrench against other tq wrenches assuming they are still in cal. Most labs will cal labs will do diy'ers also. You can also go through the Snap-on or Mac truck. Most of those guys know where to go. Not sure what to look under in the phone book.


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## de lars cuevas (Jun 19, 2006)

i use this one: http://www.syntace.com/index.cfm?pid=3&pk=377

I'm very happy with this tool!

The 1-20Nm range is okay for most bike-applications (except for cassettes, bottom brackets etc).

It's made for Syntace by some well-known-Torque-tool-producer.


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## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

de lars cuevas said:


> i use this one: http://www.syntace.com/index.cfm?pid=3&pk=377


Looks interesting. I looked at the link you posted, but was unable to determine how you know when the desired torque has been achieved. Is it one of those "clicker" wrenches which makes an audible sound? Or do you read off the current amount of torque on the gauge?

(The problem that I have with one of the cheap clickers that I own is that I sometimes don't hear / feel the click in low torque situations. For that reason, I prefer a wrench which gives me visual feedback about what's going on.)


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

If you expand the photo, it says something like "pull until click" so this is a click type, though it looks much nicer than the other click types.


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## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

Flyer said:


> If you expand the photo, it says something like "pull until click" so this is a click type, though it looks much nicer than the other click types.


I see it now, thanks. You're right; it does look nicer than the typical clicker.


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