# How do YOU clean your bike chain without a chain cleaner device???



## stonemxfan369 (Mar 24, 2013)

Im not asking for advice i just want to know eveybody elses technique. I got lazy and put a solid 100 miles on my new bike before i cleaned my chain to relube it. I put a thin coat of wd40 on it then sprayed it off. Then hit it with the air compresor and put some gt85 on it. It wasnt how i wanted to clean it and not how i want to continue to clean it because when i was done it did not feel as clean as it could or should be so for a permenent teqnique i want a list to choose from. So throw em at me. How do you clean your chain? Once again im not asking for a lube to use. Stricly the cleaning portion and this is for people WHO DONT USE A BICYCLE CHAIN CLEANING TOOL\DEVICE.


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## Bro (Dec 20, 2010)

Keep it simple. Run some lube over the rollers, hold the bottle next to the derailleur and backpedal -- I like Boeshield or Rock'N'Roll. Backpedal. Let it sit for a few minutes. Then backpedal again with the chain running through a clean cloth, until I can touch the chain without getting any gunk on my finger.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Mainly what Bro said ^^^^.
...or if the chain is really gunky and in need of a total thorough cleanup, remove the chain (quick link, or something similar), soak and shake in degreaser, get rid of the degreaser, soak in lube, remove as much lube from the exterior surfaces as you can, and reinstall the chain.


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## a250gpguy (Apr 7, 2013)

I scrub mine with a bushy brush when I wash the bike, which is frequent. I scrub the chain and cassette while back spinning the cranks. 

A little lube once dry and i'm gtg. 

A deep cleaning is a solvent dip, cleaning then lube. 

Ch

Sent using XT912 M


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## rockerc (Nov 22, 2010)

All of the above... I hose it off first, maybe give it a stiff brush if needed, run it thru a microfiber cloth, hit it with the compressor to dry it out well, then hold the Teflon dry lube to the links as I run them past the nozzle. Finally I wipe with the cloth to get surplus off.

I have a cleaning device, so sometimes I will use that when really gunky, or I will remove the chain to clean better. Powerlinks are so good for chain maintenance, makes everything so much easier.


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## stygz1 (Nov 21, 2011)

Simple green and a grudge brush. I spray down the drive terrain with simple green let set for a minute or so then scrub with grudge brush. If it is no too bad I just add more lube and wipe clean.


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## ZeroSkillet (Dec 22, 2012)

-Orange Citrus Degreaser
-Nylon "wire" brush 
-Plastic solo knife 

1) Spray down the entire drive train (cassette, derailleur, crankset) using Citrus Degreaser, let sit for 5 minutes.

2) Re-spray drive train with citrus degreaser

3) Scrub the entire drive train, including chain.

4) Using plastic knife, remove gunk from rear derailleur. 

5) Apply small amount degreaser one more time

6) Dry out drive train, making sure chain leaves no residue behind

7) Apply lube of choice,.

I recently did buy a chain cleaner device....which I do after the steps above....


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## chunky1x (Jan 20, 2012)

I washed mine first. Sprayed some WD40 on the chain and brushed it with a used soft used toothbrush and wiped it with a cotton rag until it all the excess degreaser and gunk are gone. I let it be for a full night and then lube it afterwards.


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## theMeat (Jan 5, 2010)

I try and keep it simple. Use alot of lube and wipe off the excess. If it's real dirty i'll do that a few times. If it's dirty enough that I would need a brush, I'll take it off instead and soak and swish in seafoam or some other degreaser/cleaner. Then wipe clean, let dry overnight and lube. I'm always amazed at how much stuff comes off the chain from a soaking, even when I thought it was pretty clean.
A chain wear measuring tool is good to have. If I go throu the trouble of taking off the chain to clean it, I will put a new one on even if it shows minimal wear, just because a new chain is like 20-30 bucks and will help keep the rest of the drivtrain from wearing. It's also a good idea to have 2 chains, keep one cleaned and pickled in some fresh oil, ready to go.
If you ride dusty a wax is prolly better.


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## jmmUT (Sep 15, 2008)

For extreme cleaning/de-rusting I soak in PB Blaster. It's basically just a stronger, more effective wd-40. This gets all the crap off. Rust has only been an issue for my commuter due to salt on roads. I'll use a scrubpad and old toothbrush for elbow grease. I remove all I can with old rags then lube with wax based lube when back on the the gears. I also just ride SS, and don't honestly keep up as much as I should


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## B-Mac (Oct 2, 2008)

Use a dry lube like finishline ceramic & you won't have to spend much time cleaning. Doesn't last as long, but keeps your chain cleaner.


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## owensjs (May 21, 2009)

Most of the time I simply wipe my chain off with a rag after every couple of rides and re-lube as necessary. That usually keeps it pretty clean, but if I need to clean it a little better I just spray some isopropyl alcohol on the rag and repeat the above process.


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## Stockli Boy (Feb 3, 2012)

I switched to paraffin. I'm using a small crockpot (1qt, new on Amazon for $16, or you could borrow it from your wife), a pound of Gulf Wax ($6 in the canning section). Start with a clean, dry chain. Put the wax in the crockpot, plug it in, find something else to do for 2-3 hours while the wax melts. Place the chain the the hot wax, find something else to do for 15 to 20 minutes. This is a good time to bend an old spoke into a little hook. Use the hook to retrieve the chain, unplug the crockpot, and hang the chain above the crockpot for 5 minutes to cool and drip. Put the crockpot away, re-install the chain.

I have about 100 miles of dusty, dry western Colorado and Utah dust and the chain is silent. The dirt wipes off with a dry cloth. No black chain smear on leg, clothing, dog, car, etc. When the chain gets squeaky, plug in the crockpot and repeat.


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## ZeroSkillet (Dec 22, 2012)

Stockli Boy said:


> I switched to paraffin. I'm using a small crockpot (1qt, new on Amazon for $16, or you could borrow it from your wife), a pound of Gulf Wax ($6 in the canning section). Start with a clean, dry chain. Put the wax in the crockpot, plug it in, find something else to do for 2-3 hours while the wax melts. Place the chain the the hot wax, find something else to do for 15 to 20 minutes. This is a good time to bend an old spoke into a little hook. Use the hook to retrieve the chain, unplug the crockpot, and hang the chain above the crockpot for 5 minutes to cool and drip. Put the crockpot away, re-install the chain.
> 
> I have about 100 miles of dusty, dry western Colorado and Utah dust and the chain is silent. The dirt wipes off with a dry cloth. No black chain smear on leg, clothing, dog, car, etc. When the chain gets squeaky, plug in the crockpot and repeat.


Wait what? Can you make a Youtube video?


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## rockerc (Nov 22, 2010)

Stockli Boy said:


> I switched to paraffin. I'm using a small crockpot (1qt, new on Amazon for $16, or you could borrow it from your wife), a pound of Gulf Wax ($6 in the canning section). Start with a clean, dry chain. Put the wax in the crockpot, plug it in, find something else to do for 2-3 hours while the wax melts. Place the chain the the hot wax, find something else to do for 15 to 20 minutes. This is a good time to bend an old spoke into a little hook. Use the hook to retrieve the chain, unplug the crockpot, and hang the chain above the crockpot for 5 minutes to cool and drip. Put the crockpot away, re-install the chain.
> 
> I have about 100 miles of dusty, dry western Colorado and Utah dust and the chain is silent. The dirt wipes off with a dry cloth. No black chain smear on leg, clothing, dog, car, etc. When the chain gets squeaky, plug in the crockpot and repeat.


Seems a little messy and complicated! How about Castrol chain wax if you want silent? You mentioned paraffin, where does that come in?


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## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

I use several methods depending on how dirty it is (how much mud mostly) and how much time I have. All of them involve removing the chain as I don't like the mess it creates on the rest of the bike AND I don't want to risk getting stuff on my brake rotor. I'll go quickest to most thorough. So with chain removed (I use some sort of removable link like SRAM). 

1) On trips where I need quick cleaning I'll hang chain vertically using twist tie or wire or what ever I find lying around. I'll spray it through with carb/choke or brake cleaner. Either one has higher pressure with hose you can direct and clean the chain out. I use a paper towel so I don't spray people or stuff around. Bonus is the stuff dries pretty quick with no residue. I either let dry (usually pretty quick) or use compressed air to blow out the stuff and then apply the lube.

2) Get a sealable plastic or glass jar or container that'll the chain will fin into. Fill with Kerosene or what ever suitable cleaning solvent you want. Add chain, seal tight and shake it around. After shaking for a while, most all stuff will come off. If you want to clean further, you can empty the contents into a 9x9 (or what ever) cake pan and brush clean more. Hang chain to dry or blow out with air and lube. If you have two jars, you can put the solvent back into the jar and let it sit for a day or two. All the debris will settle to the bottom, carefully pour into another jar and you've got nice clean stuff for the next go around. 

3) Do initial cleaning with #2 above and then put into an ultra-sonic cleaner. This will get ALL the stuff out. I use alcohol for the final cleaning as it evaporates nicely when done with no film will be ready to lube real quick. 

Good luck with that.


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

You can make a pretty good cleaning brush by taping two toothbrushes together, bristles facing in.


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## Ladmo (Jan 11, 2013)

I spray a bunch of Simple Green on a shop rag and then run the chain through the wetted section of rag. Repeat as necessary until chain is clean. Let dry a little, apply lube to chain and wipe off excess. Easy, quick and effective.


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## rockerc (Nov 22, 2010)

wv_bob said:


> You can make a pretty good cleaning brush by taping two toothbrushes together, bristles facing in.


Ah! But then that becomes a 'device'! Not allowed!!!


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## dru (Sep 4, 2006)

If I'm not washing the bike I use a fine wire brush on the chain and sprockets, while spinning the cranks madly with the other hand. If I'm washing then I use a nylon brush with lots of dish soap.

Obviously, relube when finished.

Drew


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## picassomoon (Jun 16, 2009)

Only way to go IMO:

The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System


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## borabora (Feb 16, 2011)

Rag and lube or if I feel ambitious, citrus degreaser and water and rag and lube. But seriously it doesn't matter that much. I occasionally ride with a retired cat 1 racer whose chain is normally filthy. Evidently the additional friction does not slow him down much.


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## Gordon Shumway (Sep 17, 2012)

I keep old t-shirts in my garage to use as chain wipes after every ride. I just run the chain through it by hand cranking the chain in reverse while my bike is still on my hitch rack until it looks clean. When it is time to re-lube I wipe, lube, wipe until no excess lube. I also keep old tooth brushes around and have another stiffer bristled brush to clean the chain/cassette/etc. 

wv_bob... I am stealing that "device" idea since I already have so many toothbrushes in my cabinet. Good one!


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## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

borabora said:


> Rag and lube .


this^^ +1


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## Leopold Porkstacker (Apr 21, 2010)

RipRoar said:


> this^^ +1


Yep, same here. Unless the the chain sees constant river crossings and dunkings into silty/clay mud bogs, the rag and lube wipedown method works great.


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## Stockli Boy (Feb 3, 2012)

rockerc said:


> Seems a little messy and complicated! How about Castrol chain wax if you want silent? You mentioned paraffin, where does that come in?


It's not any messier than anything else that has to do with mountain bikes. It's a small pot of melted wax with a chain in for a nice soak. Sure, there are a few drips when you pull the chain out, so I do it on my ski tuning bench, where there is a heavy crust of wax and P-tex already. When it's cooled, a scraper pops it right off. The paraffin is just plain old Gulf Wax, you find it in the canning section at the grocery or hardware store. 1lb costs about $6, I figure that much wax will last several generations. If you suspct the wax is getting contaminated with dirt, wait til it cools, then pop it out of the crock pot and cut the bottom off with the dirt. Exclusive of the heating and soaking time, the actual 'work' is less than 5 minutes.

I don't know about the Castrol stuff, never tried it.


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## hollywood99 (Jan 15, 2008)

Stockli Boy said:


> I switched to paraffin. I'm using a small crockpot (1qt, new on Amazon for $16, or you could borrow it from your wife), a pound of Gulf Wax ($6 in the canning section). Start with a clean, dry chain. Put the wax in the crockpot, plug it in, find something else to do for 2-3 hours while the wax melts. Place the chain the the hot wax, find something else to do for 15 to 20 minutes. This is a good time to bend an old spoke into a little hook. Use the hook to retrieve the chain, unplug the crockpot, and hang the chain above the crockpot for 5 minutes to cool and drip. Put the crockpot away, re-install the chain.
> 
> I have about 100 miles of dusty, dry western Colorado and Utah dust and the chain is silent. The dirt wipes off with a dry cloth. No black chain smear on leg, clothing, dog, car, etc. When the chain gets squeaky, plug in the crockpot and repeat.


I use a deep fryer with paraffin and a bit of synthetic motor oil mixed in. Heats up quickly, and I leave it in for 20 - 30 minutes. Works for 6-10 rides here. Creek crossings tend to cause it to start squeeking.

I probably wouldn't return the crockpot or deep fryer to to the kitchen after using it on your chain.


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## DiRt DeViL (Dec 24, 2003)

Toothbrush and simple green, if is really dirty soak it in degreaser, scrub it, dry it and lube it.


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

rockerc said:


> Ah! But then that becomes a 'device'! Not allowed!!!


"device" is way too formal a word for anything that I rig up



OCtrailMonkey said:


> wv_bob... I am stealing that "device" idea since I already have so many toothbrushes in my cabinet. Good one!


I probably got the idea from an old magazine. I sure didn't think of it myself.


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## goodmojo (Sep 12, 2011)

I put the chain on the small cog and large ring. Spin the cranks backwards while dripping rocking and roll gold. Spin very fast and dirt will come out of the chain. Keep wiping until the cloth is somewhat clean

If you twist the chain you can feel all the grit still in the links. This method will not get that stuff out.


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## Adgie (Jul 25, 2008)

This is awesome! I wonder how he changes his car oil?


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## stepitup_onenotch (Aug 27, 2012)

A quick wipe with a rag and maybe run a brush over the links if it has oily chunks showing. 

The easiest way is to remove the chain and soak it in a degreaser or acetone. Taking the chain off also allows you to easily clean the rear derailleur. Taking a chain off is simple and quick. If there is no masterlink then buy a chain tool (small Park works really well) and a couple of master links and you are all set. Lots of You Tube videos showing how to break a chain.


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## Rogo43 (Jul 12, 2014)

So I took the chain off and toothbrushed everything with lightning degreaser. Rinsed with water dried with a rag and then air compressor. Put the chain back on (looks great!) 

Now I'm a little confused about the lube situation. I was going to just put 3 in 1 oil. Yay or nay??? Should I be putting something more designed for bikes? 

Thanks


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## hollywood99 (Jan 15, 2008)

Rogo43 said:


> So I took the chain off and toothbrushed everything with lightning degreaser. Rinsed with water dried with a rag and then air compressor. Put the chain back on (looks great!)
> 
> Now I'm a little confused about the lube situation. I was going to just put 3 in 1 oil. Yay or nay??? Should I be putting something more designed for bikes?
> 
> Thanks


I would not suggest 3 in 1. It will make a mess of the chain, turn black, get all everything, and attract dirt and other things that will wear down the drive train. Once I did use 3 in 1 on one of my kids bikes in a pinch and it was a disaster. Best to get a bike specific lube.


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## deke505 (Jul 29, 2012)

A hard tooth brush pushed lightly agains the rear cassette and back pedal.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I use a chain cleaner with simple green and then rubbing alcohol.. And then Teflon wax lube cause I ride in really dusty and sandy places. Whenever I use real lube my chain collects all of that crap and all I hear is grinding. I like a clean chain. 

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


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## yzedf (Apr 22, 2014)

Spray with wd-40, wipe off the excess. Lightly spray again and then hit it with compressed air, holding rag under air nozzle to catch all the gunk. This also cleans out the cassette and derailleurs quite well.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

Toothbrush ^^


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## stepitup_onenotch (Aug 27, 2012)

Rogo43 said:


> So I took the chain off and toothbrushed everything with lightning degreaser. Rinsed with water dried with a rag and then air compressor. Put the chain back on (looks great!)
> 
> Now I'm a little confused about the lube situation. I was going to just put 3 in 1 oil. Yay or nay??? Should I be putting something more designed for bikes?
> 
> Thanks


Definitely nay. Use a bike chain lube. Preference is the dry teflon lube but the humid lube is ok as well. The dry seems to attract less dirt. You have to keep shaking the bottle otherwise the ingredients in the lube settle quickly.

I lube each link using the masterlink as a start and end point. It only takes a couple of minutes. When done spend a few minutes running the cranks thru all the gears. Note that you will get some of the excess lube dripping or flying off so if you are in the kitchen.....


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## natrat (Mar 20, 2008)

wv_bob said:


> You can make a pretty good cleaning brush by taping two toothbrushes together, bristles facing in.


yes but op has a thing against "A BICYCLE CHAIN CLEANING TOOL\DEVICE"
I hit it with this for 30 seconds then use Squirt


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## rockyrunner99 (Aug 13, 2009)

I use white lightning clean ride. Its basically like the wax the guys are using above but its mixed in a quick evaporating alcohol solution. As it gets dirty it flakes off. To start you have to get all the old oil off the chain. With a degreaser, my favorite is gas or E85. Then while the chain is off, put a drop on every roller, let it dry then put it on. Once a year or so I will redo that. Once it is on the bike, I put a drop on every roller about every 30-50 miles. I just did this a few weeks ago and there is barely a mark on the quick links where they rub.


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## matty.d. (Dec 21, 2013)

This works great altho it takes time it's worth it. Get a stiff brush and comet cleaner, put comet on the brush and go to town. I found this better than the fancy tool and comet leaves behind a little wax so it stays cleaner longer. Once I do that I use graphite dry lube it has some fast drying substance that soaks throughout and stays very clean.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Bro said:


> Keep it simple. Run some lube over the rollers, hold the bottle next to the derailleur and backpedal -- I like Boeshield or Rock'N'Roll. Backpedal. Let it sit for a few minutes. Then backpedal again with the chain running through a clean cloth, until I can touch the chain without getting any gunk on my finger.


This. Everyone tries to make it so complicated with degreasers, chain cleaners, and other crap like that.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I find a chain cleaner pretty easy.. Dill with simple green solution, run chain though. Fill with water, run chain through. Fill with rubbing alcohol, run than though. Let it dry, lube, and done. Takes about 10 minutes. 

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I wouldn't use a chain break constantly. Get a quick link if you're removing it every time you want to clean it cause the pin holes will wear out and you'll start breaking it on the trails. 

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I put about 2k miles a year on my road and mountainbime combined. I never remove my chain or use any sort of chain cleaning device. I just wipe the chain after each ride (clasp with rag and freehwheel chain through it) and generally keep my bikes clean. I currently use Dumonde Tech Lite lube which keeps it pretty clean and I only have to lube once a month or sometimes less. All of the degreasing ruins your chain in my opinion. At most I will occasionally spray some White Lightning brand degreaser on a rag and wipe off the outside of the chain when it gets bad.


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## Thor29 (May 12, 2005)

Wow, some of you guys really like to yank your chains. I almost never clean mine. I use a Finish Line dry lube and lube it once every 2 or 3 rides. My chains seem to last a long time, so I have no idea why you guys go to so much trouble. I bet you decrease the life span by using degreaser - I wouldn't be surprised if you fail to get it all off and it eats whatever lube you add later.


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## Ivan67 (Aug 23, 2013)

I use Hoppes No. 9 (a weapons powder solvent) and I use Hoppes No. 9 Elite Gun Oil with T3.

I coat it all with the powder solvent, then backpedal with a rag, repeat as needed. Then I use the gun oil and a clean rag, coat everything and backpedal with a clean rag.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Thor29 said:


> Wow, some of you guys really like to yank your chains. I almost never clean mine. I use a Finish Line dry lube and lube it once every 2 or 3 rides. My chains seem to last a long time, so I have no idea why you guys go to so much trouble. I bet you decrease the life span by using degreaser - I wouldn't be surprised if you fail to get it all off and it eats whatever lube you add later.


I ride in very sandy and muddy areas, if I didn't clean it I wouldn't have a drivetrain to use it on. It all depends on how you ride.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


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## Aaroncgray (Sep 17, 2014)

Having a clean frame is nice, but where it really counts is with your drive train and other moving parts. Take special care to clean the chain well. So try this may help you. All the best!


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## mtb_beginner (Jul 20, 2013)

I use a shop vac to clean the chain, then re-lube, then wipe excess lube.


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## WNCGoater (Aug 21, 2014)

Guy at the LBS where I bought my bike instructed me to do this:

Spin pedals backward dragging chain through a rag to get off excess dirt, grime, old lube. Then spin while holding the Rock & Roll lube over chain to wet it with lube, then drag back through the rag to wipe of excess lube and grime that has been loosened. After each ride I do this a couple of times & it seems to keep the chain reasonably clean.

Maybe a dumb observation but it seems like using and soaking in degreaser will remove the lube. Then I wonder how to get the degreaser off and out of the bearings so I can get lubricant BACK into the bearings without the degreaser left behind breaking down the new lubricant.

But I'm a complete noob at this.


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## bigguy05641 (Nov 26, 2010)

I boil mine in automatic dishwasher detergent, blow it dry with compressed air, and lube with tri-flow.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

^^^Holy crap.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

you people are making this way too hard. clean a chain with lube.

apply lube to chain. let it soak in for a minute or two. wipe the chain with a rag. wipe vigorously. wipe some more. wipe until all the old gunk and excess lube comes off and you have a clean, well-lubed chain. you don't even have to take it off the bike to do this.


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## Gordon Shumway (Sep 17, 2012)

^ This.. Wipe it clean with a rag or old t-shirt after rides and when it's time to re-lube just wipe it clean and put the lube on then wipe it clean again. Maybe it's easier for me since I ride in dry dusty conditions though.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Yes...folks wayyyyyyyyyy over doing chain cleaning/maint. Wipe with rag after each ride. Reapply lube when needed. Wipe off after letting sit a few hours. Ride. Chain stays clean and lasts a long time. Each time you do a full degrease you make it worse IMHO.


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## Haint (Jan 25, 2012)

^ Post #58

Just clean crud from links on the outside with a small detail brush and water-soluble degreaser, on the bike making it easier and a pattern to keep. Lube each roller, then follow the instructions for whatever it is being used.


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## rndmrdr (Nov 10, 2011)

old sock and plenty of lube works for a lot of things


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

picassomoon said:


> Only way to go IMO:
> 
> The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System


+1 or 2


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## Gordon Shumway (Sep 17, 2012)

perttime said:


> +1 or 2


The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System

It's tedious but every spring I also completely take my chain apart and lube each pin, roller etc. with specific lube/grease. Like Sheldon said, it's "better than new" when I finish!


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## mtb_beginner (Jul 20, 2013)

If I would spend an hour each week cleaning it that way, it would cost me 52 hours lost in one year. How much does a brand new chain costs?


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

At that point get a new chain...they are $30.


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## Gordon Shumway (Sep 17, 2012)

mtb_beginner said:


> If I would spend an hour each week cleaning it that way, it would cost me 52 hours lost in one year.


It takes like 4 hours and I only do it at the beginning of April every year.. Sheesh :lol:


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## random walk (Jan 12, 2010)

I hit mine with a leaf blower after each ride. Can't remember the last muddy ride I had in SoCali.


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## Zowie (Aug 3, 2013)

Gordon Shumway said:


> It takes like 4 hours and I only do it at the beginning of April every year.. Sheesh :lol:


You hooked up some of those Superleggero ball bearings yet?

Talk about tech. HALF the weight. Amazing.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

These? Sheldon Brown's Commercial Products
The chain is a moving part, so a lighter chain would make me faster.

Have you tried a Real MAN ® saddle?


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## PlutonicPlague (Jan 19, 2014)

I just switched over (from using Tri-Flow) to Boeshield T-9 as a chain lube. The Boeshield T-9 is a combo of solvents, lubricants, and wax. Once applied, the solvent evaporates and leaves a thin waxy film. It does not seem to attract or hold on to too much grit, so I'm satisfied with it so far.
I'm lazy and hate to clean or polish anything! Life is short, and there just ain't the time for too much of such nonsense! The chains I use on my SS and IGH bikes only cost me an average of $15 each, so I don't worry at all about chain longevity. I don't need any more friction than necessary in the system, though. 
If I see any sand or mud on my chain (and I'm not planning on riding the next day), it gets hosed off during the post-ride hosedown (if any). Then I do the standard reverse-pedaling rag wipedown. Good enough for now.

Periodically, I notice a slight buildup of gunk and grit that wants to resist the above quick-and-easy removal method, so I will then scrub the exterior thoroughly with a toothbrush (no solvent... I only use solvent when I remove the chain for thorough cleaning, and then it always a citrus degreaser, and never kerosene or gas or acetone, etc.), and then blow it dry with compressed air. Then I let the bike sit overnight in my kitchen to make sure its dry, if I have the time. This isn't a thorough cleaning, of course, but it sure helps me out psychologically, since I wince at the idea of applying lube over dirt.
When I'm satisfied that the chain is dry, I apply the Boeshield, using the squeeze bottle (also comes in aerosol can) with a flexible extension tube, and being as miserly as I can manage, since the Boeshield T-9 ain't cheap!. I hit each pin separately, making sure that I get the lube into both sides of each link. After I'm done, I very slowly backpedal my cranks (or go both ways if I have my bike in my stand) to work it in without flinging any off the chain. Then I clean the excess lube from the outside of the links by running the chain thru a rag.
Good to go!

(edit: I also clean my cog and chainring whenever I clean the chain).


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## PlutonicPlague (Jan 19, 2014)

Anybody here use furniture wax? A cyclist I know told me he bought a 1-gallon container (didn't say which brand or how much it cost) of it, and soaks his cleaned chain in it, then hang dries the chain. He said this was easier than melting wax for a chain dip.


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

Gordon Shumway said:


> It takes like 4 hours and I only do it at the beginning of April every year.. Sheesh :lol:


I don't think I've ever had a chain make it a year without being stretched to uselessness. I usually end up replacing the chain a couple times a year and cogs and ring ~once.

Dump some lube on it every few rides, spin it through a random rag to get off the excess, ride. Drivetrains are wear parts, not heirlooms.


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## Zowie (Aug 3, 2013)

perttime said:


> These? Sheldon Brown's Commercial Products
> The chain is a moving part, so a lighter chain would make me faster.
> 
> Have you tried a Real MAN ® saddle?


No, but I just applied for my FasterCard. ®


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## Gordon Shumway (Sep 17, 2012)

slapheadmofo said:


> I don't think I've ever had a chain make it a year without being stretched to uselessness. I usually end up replacing the chain a couple times a year and cogs and ring ~once.
> 
> Dump some lube on it every few rides, spin it through a random rag to get off the excess, ride. Drivetrains are wear parts, not heirlooms.





TiGeo said:


> At that point get a new chain...they are $30.





mtb_beginner said:


> If I would spend an hour each week cleaning it that way, it would cost me 52 hours lost in one year. How much does a brand new chain costs?


ut:

Disclaimer
This page is a joke! Note the date above!
ShelBroCo does not actually recommend taking your chain completely apart! Deakinol Rinsing Solvent, Shelbrothane Cleaning Solvent, Shelbroconol Pre-soak, and Deakins White RollerGrease are all imaginary products.


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## deke505 (Jul 29, 2012)

Gordon Shumway said:


> ut:
> 
> Disclaimer
> This page is a joke! Note the date above!
> ShelBroCo does not actually recommend taking your chain completely apart! Deakinol Rinsing Solvent, Shelbrothane Cleaning Solvent, Shelbroconol Pre-soak, and Deakins White RollerGrease are all imaginary products.


Wait so I wasn't suppose to take my chain apart?:madman::skep:


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## Gordon Shumway (Sep 17, 2012)

deke505 said:


> Wait so I wasn't suppose to take my chain apart?:madman::skep:


:lol: looks like you are on your way to 52 hours lost in one year..


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## deke505 (Jul 29, 2012)

Gordon Shumway said:


> :lol: looks like you are on your way to 52 hours lost in one year..


52 hours huh? All I did was wrap the chain around a stick of dynamite and lit the fuse.


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## MPX309 (Nov 3, 2014)

I have this Muckoff spray thing, and a brush, it seems to look to do the job, weather it does or not I'm not sure


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## humanpaste (Nov 21, 2014)

not sure if these chains have O-rings or not but if they do WD-40 simple green and all that will dry them out. just use kerosene. kerosene is oil-based I keep it around for dirt bikes motorcycles and the like. if you need a brush its called a grunge brush and they are really cheap, but a rag will work.


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## Haint (Jan 25, 2012)

humanpaste said:


> not sure if these chains have O-rings or not but if they do WD-40 simple green and all that will dry them out. just use kerosene. kerosene is oil-based I keep it around for dirt bikes motorcycles and the like. if you need a brush its called a grunge brush and they are really cheap, but a rag will work.


No o-rings in bicycle chains. If a oil-based degreaser is used it is likely to not dry to clean, leaving a film. It can prematurely break down an application of lube. Use water based degreasers and a brush and wisk away surface dirt, but do it routinely.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

I have taken my chain off and soaked it in a container filled with degeaser for a day. I think I used an old gatorade bottle, something with a wide mouth. It was really clean and then really filthy again after a couple of rides, it wasn/'t worth the effort.

Niw i use a brush and then a rag and I go over every single link with the rag. This keeps it dry and clean and doesn't take too long if yo do it regularly. I have tried to find the minimal amount of lube to use to keep from attracting crud. For me it is not the amount but the frequency. I lube every link, let it sit over night and then wipe off next day with rag. I won't lube again until I hear the drive train starting to talk to me.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

slapheadmofo said:


> I don't think I've ever had a chain make it a year without being stretched to uselessness. I usually end up replacing the chain a couple times a year and cogs and ring ~once.
> 
> Dump some lube on it every few rides, spin it through a random rag to get off the excess, ride. Drivetrains are wear parts, not heirlooms.


Exactly.


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## Gordon Shumway (Sep 17, 2012)

TiGeo said:


> Exactly.


Guys, you are replying to jokes.. We all seem to agree that a rag and lube is all you need (giggidy).. /thread


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

Gordon Shumway said:


> Guys, you are replying to jokes.. We all seem to agree that a rag and lube is all you need (giggidy).. /thread


Doh!

I'm familiar w/ the SD page - I probably shouldn't have quoted you in the reply - I wasn't paying enough attention to exactly who was saying what about which and got you mixed up with the paraffiners.


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## Gordon Shumway (Sep 17, 2012)

slapheadmofo said:


> Doh!
> 
> I'm familiar w/ the SD page - I probably shouldn't have quoted you in the reply - I wasn't paying enough attention to exactly who was saying what about which and got you mixed up with the paraffiners.


Gotcha! Lol, it's why we are here.. to have a good time. I know you guys were just trying to respond to the thread with some common sense... well at least you and Ti.

*I'm a sarcastic ass and should not be taken seriously.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

slapheadmofo said:


> I don't think I've ever had a chain make it a year without being stretched to uselessness. I usually end up replacing the chain a couple times a year and cogs and ring ~once.
> 
> Dump some lube on it every few rides, spin it through a random rag to get off the excess, ride. Drivetrains are wear parts, not heirlooms.


Seriously people. It's not complicated.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Don't ruin my fun of getting upset at people on the internet that do things differently than me!


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

gordon shumway said:


> guys, you are replying to jokes..


WHAT!?!?!?!?



... but seriously: Let's not forget that the greasy stuff that comes on chains from the factory is probably the best chain lube you can have. Don't go flushing it out of the internals of your chain, until you have to.

The stuff does attract dirt, so get as much of it off the external surfaces, as you can.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

perttime said:


> WHAT!?!?!?!?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


May have changed, but the clear oily stuff that came on shimano chains was different than the white grease on sram chains. I wouldn't leave the grease on. I pretty much only use shimano chains, although sram have come on a few of my bikes, I just haven't bought one in about a year.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Gordon Shumway said:


> Guys, you are replying to jokes.. We all seem to agree that a rag and lube is all you need (giggidy).. /thread


That's because in General there is generally not much of a sense of humor displayed.


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## PlutonicPlague (Jan 19, 2014)

The chain on my Pugs must be self-cleaning! After some heavy rain showers blew out of the picture yesterday afternoon, I went for a ride. Starting off with my chain (KMC Z51 Rustbuster) fairly clean, I rode my Pugs on some trails in the pine scrub, then headed out on the beach over some soft sand and rode on wet hardpack down closer to the water for about a half-mile, then retraced back up over the soft sand and over a dune and cruised into a beach access paved parking lot that had a couple of deep puddles. Hmmm... now I'm noticing some sand on my bike, mainly on the wheels and rims. I blasted thru the 5" deep puddles a couple of times at speed, throwing up a huge wake and feeling like a kid. My Big-O full coverage fenders did a good job of keeping me dry. Then I cruised to the pine forest and rode the trails again. When I returned to my car, all I had to do to clean off my bike was to find a twig and flick a small chunk of dog doo from my front tire, and spray it off with what was left in my water bottle. I swear that my chain still appeared clean! At this point, I remembered some sage advice that a Hawaiian construction worker once laid upon me: "Don't inspect your work too much, or you might see something wrong with it. Good 'nuff, brah!"


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## Haint (Jan 25, 2012)

plutonicplague said:


> the chain on my pugs must be self-cleaning! After some heavy rain showers blew out of the picture yesterday afternoon, i went for a ride. Starting off with my chain (kmc z51 rustbuster) fairly clean, i rode my pugs on some trails in the pine scrub, then headed out on the beach over some soft sand and rode on wet hardpack down closer to the water for about a half-mile, then retraced back up over the soft sand and over a dune and cruised into a beach access paved parking lot that had a couple of deep puddles. Hmmm... Now i'm noticing some sand on my bike, mainly on the wheels and rims. I blasted thru the 5" deep puddles a couple of times at speed, throwing up a huge wake and feeling like a kid. My big-o full coverage fenders did a good job of keeping me dry. Then i cruised to the pine forest and rode the trails again. When i returned to my car, all i had to do to clean off my bike was to find a twig and flick a small chunk of dog doo from my front tire, and spray it off with what was left in my water bottle. I swear that my chain still appeared clean! At this point, i remembered some sage advice that a hawaiian construction worker once laid upon me: "don't inspect your work too much, or you might see something wrong with it. Good 'nuff, brah!"


tldr


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

That is my point....I believe most of the factory grease stays in the nooks and cranes and the lube you add is more surfical if that makes sense. When folks do these full-on degreasings they get ride of the good stuff.


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## justonegear (Feb 16, 2008)

Plus 1 for that. I use a small brass brush to remove dirt. Clean it with a light oil and apply your lube. Replace the thing every year and never had a problem...Using detergents and compressed air on your chain or any part of your bike is not a good idea. Happy Trails


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Jayem said:


> May have changed, but the clear oily stuff that came on shimano chains was different than the white grease on sram chains. I wouldn't leave the grease on. I pretty much only use shimano chains, although sram have come on a few of my bikes,


It has been a while since I bought a chain. At least Shimano CN-7701 and the KMC something-or-other that I last bought were good for a long time with just wiping off the greasy stuff, and some wax or "dry" lube over.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Jayem said:


> May have changed, but the clear oily stuff that came on shimano chains was different than the white grease on sram chains. I wouldn't leave the grease on. I pretty much only use shimano chains, although sram have come on a few of my bikes, I just haven't bought one in about a year.


I really like the lube Shimano chains come packed with. I can get 6-8 good rides in without applying any additional lubricant and for those rides the chain is silky smooth, anything I apply from that time on never quite matches it IMO.

I do give it a quick wipe down with alcohol first and don't have any problems with it attracting dirt.


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