# KS i900 FIXED. It is FULLY rebuildable at home.



## checkpoint22 (Sep 1, 2008)

Number 1 son and I pulled the KS i900 apart the other day - and we mean A-P-A-R-T. Separated all 3 pipes (actually 2 are pipes, the other is a "plunger" rod).

The original motivation was to replace the stupid roller bearing under the red coller (that doesn't roll, as the shaft moves perpendicular to the rollers - der!). Much better to put a brass bushing in there - so out comes the lathe. New bushing in - BUT - 3 hrs of trying to reassemble the inner shafts, spraying oil all over kitchen ceiling, :madman: just cannot get it together.

Then, someone PsyCro over on this thread
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=693558&goto=newpost
mentions that he has seen a tiny pin-hole inside one of the indents used to turn an alloy sealing cap. We check it out, and THIS IS THE SECRET!

Sorry for the lack of step-by-step pics - but we were so excited to get it back together (and so oily) that we just kept going, and don't really feel like pulling it apart again right now. We have labelled the pics as best we could - hope these are helpful.

Do not listen to those who say the KS i900 is not user serviceable - it is. Works better than it ever did new now that it has a proper bushing, AND we can now tailor the speed of the seat raise because now we know where to pump the air!

Major props to PsyCro for pointing out the pin-hole - we would never have seen it.:thumbsup:

Directions as follows:
1. put the circlip into the top of the "middle" tube (the one the seat eventually clamps into)
2. put the "plunger" into the middle tube and place it at its most extended position. Put the black ring with it's inner and outer o-rings on the outside of this shaft and the alloy cap with the hole in it over the plunger.
3. fill the middle tube (the one with the plunger in it) to the very top with 5wt oil. 
4. place the alloy cap that buts up against the circlip into the top of the shaft filled with oil, this will seal this chamber.
5. slide this assembly into the main shaft untill the alloy cap has pushed up against the circlip. 
6. do up the silver alloy cap that has the pinhole in it. 
7. to pressurize the chamber, be imaginative. I used a compressor tip for inflating soccer balls, wrapped some tape around it to seal, and jammed it in the indent with the pin-hole. We put about 120psi in (with the shock pump) but I'm not entirely sure, put in enough so the shaft extends by itself when you press the button on the top cap. (the one near the circlip)
8. put the rest of the post back together, bearings, lube etc.

Sorry for the lack of pics, we tried to label things as best we could.
Now go tear 'em apart! What do you reckon?


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## Chromagftw (Feb 12, 2009)

Nicely done mate. Buzzy's slick honey works like a charm. :thumbsup:


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## tshulthise (Apr 23, 2010)

I saw a post somewhere that had detailed step by step instructions about how to rebuild this seat post. I can't remember if it was on this forum on on KS's website but there's one out there that has very good pictures and very detailed instructions.


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## wpuk (May 13, 2008)

If it's the one below, this guide above looks to go alot further

http://www.watermanatwork.com/Land/Cycling/BikeShop/KSAdjSeatpost/KSAdjSeatpost.html

Many thanks and props to the OP, you may have help me out no end 

Anyone have a source for getting brass bushings to fit?


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## tshulthise (Apr 23, 2010)

wpuk said:


> If it's the one below, this guide above looks to go alot further
> 
> http://www.watermanatwork.com/Land/Cycling/BikeShop/KSAdjSeatpost/KSAdjSeatpost.html
> 
> ...


Yeah, that's the one I was thinking of.

I put the Buzz's Slick Honey on mine and have ZERO stiction now. I don't know why you would want to redesign the bushing if it works as is. Try the BSH before you go to all this trouble.

A full rebuild may be necessary eventually though so this post might make a good bookmark. I protect my post with a seat bag so I'm hoping it will give me many years of operation without the need for a rebuild.


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## checkpoint22 (Sep 1, 2008)

My post was just fine - until I had a pedal-strike with the seat up, and all my weight on it. The ball bearings chunked into the guide slots - and the post was never the same again. When we pulled it apart, we found that there are 6 guide slots, and only 3 are used. On reassembly, we just used the other three guide slots. Back to slippery-dippery


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## ARCSAT (Oct 15, 2009)

It awefull that theres no detailed instructions for field service of this post. Whats the big secret? What are they afraid of? I work on forks all the time and I can get details on most all quality forks to rebuild. You might need special tools but if you work on them a lot then you buy them.


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## pabloquintana (Mar 17, 2010)

ARCSAT said:


> It awefull that theres no detailed instructions for field service of this post. Whats the big secret? What are they afraid of? I work on forks all the time and I can get details on most all quality forks to rebuild. You might need special tools but if you work on them a lot then you buy them.


I'll say it has to do with the fact that there is no valve to let the pressure in the chamber out, so you need to risk blowing something in your face or garage if not disassembled properly. Definitley it was not meant to be user-serviceable.


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## fluidmotion (Apr 15, 2008)

Has anyone found a source for rebuild parts for this post. My post no longer holds the seal between the air and oil chambers after a rebuild. After my latest rebuild I got less than a ride before the post began to sag.

Attempts at contacting Kind Shock in CA have been frustrating to put it politely. 

Universal Cycles has 2 parts available. A mystery o-ring and the DU bushing. The o-ring is very small and I suspect it belongs on the inner most shaft. I have reservations this one o-ring will solve my issue. A full o-ring kit would be preferable.


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

This thread rules!
My post started doing the 1" drop last week during a road trip.
I found this thread and thought I'd give the rebuild a shot.
I went at it slightly differently, but the end result is a post that works perfectly again and I didn't have to wait 2-3 weeks for a factory fix.
Being able to service it at home now bumps this into the #1 place for adjustable seatposts.

After taking it apart and seeing how it works, I am pretty sure the post busted because someone picked the bike up by the seat with the post down. I will never pull up on the seat again when it's in the down position.

I rebuilt with 5wt fork oil, but will use 2.5wt next time. The oil that came out was thinner than the 5wt I had.


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## FMX_DBC (Jul 3, 2011)

d-bug said:


> After taking it apart and seeing how it works, I am pretty sure the post busted because someone picked the bike up by the seat with the post down. I will never pull up on the seat again when it's in the down position.


Just curious how this would "bust" it. I've done this more than once with no seemingly bad effects...


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

FMX_DBC said:


> Just curious how this would "bust" it. I've done this more than once with no seemingly bad effects...


When the seat is pushed down, the oil gets moved from one tube to another through a valve at the top of the post (lever activated). When you pull up on the seat, it creates a vacuum in the chamber where the oil was. If a few air bubbles get by a seal and get into that oil chamber it becomes "busted". It's like getting air in your hydraulic brake lines. I've picked mine up a few times by the seat and not had any problems, but the 3 times I've had problems I know the bike was picked up with the seat down. Weird thing is that the problem did not come up immediately after picking it up by the seat. Which makes me think the air gets in there, but may not get into the main chamber right away.

I could be totally wrong about this, but after looking at the internals for 2 hours I don't think I am.


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## FMX_DBC (Jul 3, 2011)

Very good to know, thanks! I'll try to avoid doing that from now on


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## mbikerguy (Jul 16, 2011)

I sent mine in and they turned it around same day!


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

DISCLAIMER - I do not work for KS, this is not an officialy supported how to. I gathered info from other users in this thread who figured it all out, I just took more pictures.
If you try this and screw it up, it's on you. I won't be held responsible for anything.
Hopefully this will help some people out, or get KS to put out an offical guide.
*Avoid scratching any of the surfaces, as this may allow air to get into the system.
*Clean everything before reassembly.

Stuff needed for rebuild.
-2.5wt suspension oil
-shock pump
-ratchet and 7/16" socket
-slick honey
-small funnel
-C-clip pliers with angled ends
-ball inflation needle
-heat shrink tubing (for the inflation needle)


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## pabloquintana (Mar 17, 2010)

d-bug said:


> DISCLAIMER - I do not work for KS, this is not an officialy supported how to. I gathered info from other users in this thread who figured it all out, I just took more pictures.
> If you try this and screw it up, it's on you. I won't be held responsible for anything.
> Hopefully this will help some people out, or get KS to put out an offical guide.
> *Avoid scratching any of the surfaces, as this may allow air to get into the system.
> ...


d-bug you da' man! Now, I having done this procedure quite a few times coming from zazzique pictures (wish I'd had yours before :madman if there has been air moving into the oil chamber then the seals or the IFP have something wrong. That is what my understanding came to.

You are implying that if you accidentally pull the seat and get air past the IFP to the oil chamber, then rebuilding is all that you need? or that definitely the seals or IFP should be replaced?

P


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## FMX_DBC (Jul 3, 2011)

Nice writeup with great pictures! Thanks! :thumbsup:


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

pabloquintana said:


> d-bug you da' man! Now, I having done this procedure quite a few times coming from zazzique pictures (wish I'd had yours before :madman if there has been air moving into the oil chamber then the seals or the IFP have something wrong. That is what my understanding came to.
> 
> You are implying that if you accidentally pull the seat and get air past the IFP to the oil chamber, then rebuilding is all that you need? or that definitely the seals or IFP should be replaced?
> 
> P


I think it could be either seals/IFP going bad, or just air getting in somehow. If the problem happens again soon then the seals/IFP likely need replacing and it should be sent to KS. 
I tend to think of this process like a brake bleed. Doesn't mean the brakes are bad, just that air got in and needs to be removed to return to optimal performance n


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## stpjpr (Feb 18, 2008)

Good job, you know the number or reference of the quad-ring smaller for KS 950IR?

greetings

Duarte Guedes

PORTUGAL


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## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

Great job d-bug.
I don't think you could be more helpful!


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## driveroperator (Aug 16, 2010)

what a great thread! I have a problem though, I can't get the baseplate off. just won't freaking spin.


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

driveroperator said:


> what a great thread! I have a problem though, I can't get the baseplate off. just won't freaking spin.


There are two base plates, one internally, and one externally (on the lower black tube).
You do not need to remove the base plate on the lower black tube. That f#@cker is hard to get out, and never provides anything when out.

The base plate pictured above turned with little effort for me.


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## driveroperator (Aug 16, 2010)

d-bug said:


> There are two base plates, one internally, and one externally (on the lower black tube).
> You do not need to remove the base plate on the lower black tube. That f#@cker is hard to get out, and never provides anything when out.
> 
> The base plate pictured above turned with little effort for me.


I see. attention to detail. apparently I am lacking. thanks


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## racer_46 (Jul 6, 2009)

So I bought a used post that did work not thinking that I could fix it. So I just tried doing this last night and I have a few questions the plunger rod has a dual lip seal/o-ring near the end then it has another groove that looks like is intended for another seal or o-ring, am I missing a part here or is this how it is intended to be. Also the plunger is not solid on the end like the OP's it is hollow for an unknow depth how is this addresed when trying to reassemble and making sure not to get any air in the small tube. Is there a secret to getting the small tube (the one the plunger rides in) through the black ring, even with it centered it is very difficult to get through. So anyhow once I got it back together it was better but still not right. The post acts like the valve (on top of the post used to raise and lower) is not sealing. Is will slowly rise on its own and can be compressed or extended by hand without activating the lever/valve. Any suggestions on what to look for. 
Thanks


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## racer_46 (Jul 6, 2009)

Double Post:madman:


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## tracer75 (Aug 15, 2009)

excellent ilustration... many thanks for posting..

got a question.... what stops the air from leaking out the pin hole ??


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

racer_46 said:


> So I bought a used post that did work not thinking that I could fix it. So I just tried doing this last night and I have a few questions the plunger rod has a dual lip seal/o-ring near the end then it has another groove that looks like is intended for another seal or o-ring, am I missing a part here or is this how it is intended to be. Also the plunger is not solid on the end like the OP's it is hollow for an unknow depth how is this addresed when trying to reassemble and making sure not to get any air in the small tube. Is there a secret to getting the small tube (the one the plunger rides in) through the black ring, even with it centered it is very difficult to get through. So anyhow once I got it back together it was better but still not right. The post acts like the valve (on top of the post used to raise and lower) is not sealing. Is will slowly rise on its own and can be compressed or extended by hand without activating the lever/valve. Any suggestions on what to look for.
> Thanks


That dual seal piece and lip confused me as well. The lip doesn't seem to have a purpose immediately obvious to me.
No secret on getting the tube through the seal. Just take your time.
Where is the hole located on the plunger? Is it on the face that points up when the post is properly assembled, or on the end where the nut goes? I just got a supernatural that has a hole at the end where the nut goes, air on that end isn't a problem.

pictures always help.


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

tracer75 said:


> excellent ilustration... many thanks for posting..
> 
> got a question.... what stops the air from leaking out the pin hole ??


Air pressure is the best I can come up with.
When the air enters, it comes out under an o-ring. My guess is the air pressure holds the ring against the port keeping it from leaking out.


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## tracer75 (Aug 15, 2009)

d-bug said:


> Air pressure is the best I can come up with.
> When the air enters, it comes out under an o-ring. My guess is the air pressure holds the ring against the port keeping it from leaking out.


cheers for the reply.... I was thinking along them lines too.....

my KS 900r post went all spongy... luckily it's still under warranty, so its of to the shop to get fixed, took over a month last time :madmax:


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## loose chain (Apr 13, 2011)

okay- another log on the fire. bought a brand new i900 off ebay. installed it. sat on the newly assembled new bike for its test spin, seat sags an inch or so. hit the lever and drop the seat all the way to bottom, and it raises on its own, without the lever being actuated. oh, when fully depressed it sounds there might be a blown seal or something- air bubbles (or some kind of bubbles...)

fired off an email to KS, but any initial thoughts here? should i add air? leave it alone and wait for them to get back to me? just rebuild it myself? i'm not scared of doing the work. just wonder if it's a problem that is even fixable.


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

loose chain said:


> okay- another log on the fire. bought a brand new i900 off ebay. installed it. sat on the newly assembled new bike for its test spin, seat sags an inch or so. hit the lever and drop the seat all the way to bottom, and it raises on its own, without the lever being actuated. oh, when fully depressed it sounds there might be a blown seal or something- air bubbles (or some kind of bubbles...)
> 
> fired off an email to KS, but any initial thoughts here? should i add air? leave it alone and wait for them to get back to me? just rebuild it myself? i'm not scared of doing the work. just wonder if it's a problem that is even fixable.


If it raises on its own, is there a chance the cable is too tight (assuming remote version), which could cause the valve to be partially opened? Detach cable and see how the post works.

If there is no warranty, and you aren't afraid of doing the work, go for it. If under warranty send it to KS for repair.


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## loose chain (Apr 13, 2011)

that was my initial thought too re: open valve.

no remote, so are there some internals having to do with the lever that might be bunk?


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

The lever activates a valve that looks pretty simple, maybe there is something stuck in the valve. I've never been able to get direct access to the valve. Previous posts in this thread have people able to access it. It seems to be screwed in and locked with a strong locktit. I've put a huge amount of force into unscrewing it and getting at the valve, but with no luck. You may have better luck.
To get to is you basically unscrew the the seat mounting mechanism from the upper post.


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## rybozz (Aug 13, 2012)

*nice*

have to try


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## racer_46 (Jul 6, 2009)

Ok so I am finally getting back around to working on this post. Part of my issue was the seal on the inside of the float pistion was bad... most likely my fault when trying to reassemble. I think that the valve on my post my not be working properly. So my question is what causes the valve to close, is it just the oil trying to pass back through the valve when the lever is not actuated or is it supposed to be spring loaded?


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

racer_46 said:


> Ok so I am finally getting back around to working on this post. Part of my issue was the seal on the inside of the float pistion was bad... most likely my fault when trying to reassemble. I think that the valve on my post my not be working properly. So my question is what causes the valve to close, is it just the oil trying to pass back through the valve when the lever is not actuated or is it supposed to be spring loaded?


My guess is spring loaded.


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## beaterdit (Jul 26, 2009)

D-bug, YOU DA MAN! Thanks so much for this guide. Did the rebuild today after putting it off for a long time and now the post is better than ever.

My post hadn't been getting up all the way and was generally sluggish so I had originally done the 'light rebuild' from Waterman's page. Also did a couple mods outlined elsewhere; vented the outer chamber with a filter and sanded the main bushing under the silver ring and managed to pressurize the post a little more for faster action. This stuff helped immensely but then I realized that my post wasn't getting all of it's travel. It worked great but only went up about 110 mm. After this rebuild, It's getting all of it's travel and the action is better than ever. Actually I over pressurized to about 225 lbs so the action is a little scary. Better too much than not enough though. Maybe I'll pull it apart again soon and let a little out. I found that when you start to unscrew the silver pressurization ring, air starts to seep out before it pops off. I think around 200 would be ideal for fast action.

Thanks again, now I can sell my post fully functional in the spring and upgrade to a LEV!


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## MaTt 93 (Dec 1, 2012)

Tried D-bugs guide today and my post works perfectly again now :thumbsup:

A few notes if your going to try it :
- wear eye protection as well as useing the rag when your unscrewing the base plate as i got spayed to the face with oil. Was just lucky i was wearing safty glasses and didn't get to much oil in my eyes.

- i used valcanizing tape instead of shrink wrap on the needle as it seamed to give it a better seal. 

Also if you can find a pair the right size i think useing a Pin spanner would work better than the c-clip pliers. The c-clip pliers worked fine for me though.


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## bannedbiker (Aug 14, 2006)

D-Bug this is an awesome thread, thanks dude!
Loose Chain, did you ever get to the bottom of the issue with your post? I've got the same problem with mine, it drops on its own, raises on its own, both intermittantly, locks in place very infrequently, and when you move cycle it up/down and cycle the lever you can hear air moving, so I assume I just need to do this bleed process?

I've already fired of an email to Pure Racing (UK KS distributer) to find out how much it would cost to get repaired, but also see if I can blag any exploded diagrams etc from them...!

I'll update on how mine goes.


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

MaTt 93 said:


> Tried D-bugs guide today and my post works perfectly again now :thumbsup:
> 
> A few notes if your going to try it :
> - wear eye protection as well as useing the rag when your unscrewing the base plate as i got spayed to the face with oil. Was just lucky i was wearing safty glasses and didn't get to much oil in my eyes.
> ...


Those are great points. I forget about eye protection since I wear glasses. Though I can hear my 7th grade shop teacher now..."Eye protection, son. Eye protection!"


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## bannedbiker (Aug 14, 2006)

Well, mine is done, but not 100% fixed!
Mine definitely did have air in the inner tube chamber, however the main problem is that the valve is sticking open.
I built the post with degreaser in place of oil, cycled it over and over, stripped it, washed the degreaser out, dried it, rebuilt it properly an it does now work. However, the lever still feels "gritty" and I can just tell that it's going to happen again!
How do you separate the head from the shaft? I guess it's just threaded on, but mine has a load of resin type glue around the seal, trying to get it undone has proved a bad idea; I had it clamped in my work stand and used soft-jawed pipe grips to help try and hold it, the grips chewed through the soft jaws and have marked my shaft :-(

Anyways, things I can add to help others in future:
The inner tube is not symmetrical (at least not in my old 2008 post); one end has a taper to help guide the seal of the piston in, make sure it goes back bit the correct way up.
When trying to get the inner tube re-inserted, I located the tube in the black ring by hand, then used the base plate to press the tube to the correct depth.
To make my air adaptor the heat-shrink I had just disintegrated when I put pressure against it, I found self-amalgamating tape the best thing.


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## norcom (Feb 22, 2007)

Thanks for the rebuild info, good stuff! But I'm still having some minor issues.

I've rebuilt one of my posts three times now and it's sticking a little at the end of the rise. It only happens when I raise the post slowly. The post works if I let it rise fast from the bottom all the way to the top; though sometimes still sticks the last few mm. But when I do it slowly or sometimes start the rise from half way up the post will get stuck or just wont reach the last half cm for the "bump" sound. I have a newer, Supernatural model of it and it does not do that. I can get that post to rise from any level, slow or fast and it will get the "bump" sound. 

Any thoughts on what it could be? It just seems like sometimes it looses some of the power during the rise and stops. Other times it just flies up with no problems. There's plenty of grease and I just replaced the guide pins with brand new ones. Though it was doing the exact same thing with the original guide pins.

Edit:
Just keep playing with it and it seems to slow down right when the pins get to the needle bearing. I'm not sure if that bearing is a bit out of alignment or what but I can't get it to turn or anything. Any idea on how to adjust that bearing?


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

I had a similar problem once.
In trying to fix it: I increased the air pressure, I messed with the red retaining collar, but the biggest thing I found was one of the 3 long pins got slightly bent, probably when I was putting it back together.


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## norcom (Feb 22, 2007)

d-bug said:


> I had a similar problem once.
> In trying to fix it: I increased the air pressure, I messed with the red retaining collar, but the biggest thing I found was one of the 3 long pins got slightly bent, probably when I was putting it back together.


Thought it maybe the air pressure. This last build I cranked it to 220PSI.
Thought it was the guide pins; just put in 3 new ones. I bent one originally when it came out and got gouged while I was trying to reassemble the post. The red collar doesn't seem to do much of anything at all. Loose or tight I still get the same symptoms.

Thanks for the advice.


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## hmorsi (May 14, 2008)

norcom said:


> Thanks for the rebuild info, good stuff! But I'm still having some minor issues.
> 
> I've rebuilt one of my posts three times now and it's sticking a little at the end of the rise. It only happens when I raise the post slowly. The post works if I let it rise fast from the bottom all the way to the top; though sometimes still sticks the last few mm. But when I do it slowly or sometimes start the rise from half way up the post will get stuck or just wont reach the last half cm for the "bump" sound. I have a newer, Supernatural model of it and it does not do that. I can get that post to rise from any level, slow or fast and it will get the "bump" sound.
> 
> ...


Hello, I have the i950 R and it has recently developed the same exact symptoms you mention. Mine is about two years old now. Here is what worked for me:

1. Completely disassemble the post: separate the upper stanchion from lower tube. Take off the pins, DU bushing and red collar.
2. THOROUGHLY clean the inside of the lower tube. Especially the grooves where the pins run. A good blast with degreaser then a rag on a slim dowel should to the job.
3. Clean and degrease the upper stanchion, pins, DU bushing and inside of red collar.* Over time, dirt and grit build up inside and around the nooks and crannies of the collar and bushing. I had to rebuild the post a few times before thinking of giving them a very thorough clean and this is what seemed to work.*
4. Put a thin layer of good quality suspension grease *on the inside of the rubber seal* in the red collar. Slide it over the upper stanchion.
5. Do the same for the DU bushing and reinstall.
6. Grease up the pins and install them in their grooves on the upper stanchion. Put a healthy layer of grease on the whole thing top to bottom as well as on top of the inside of the lower tube on the oller bearing. Put some extra grease on top of the DU bushing, below the red collar.
7. Reassemble. Cycle up and down a few times.

Good luck!


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

Checkpoint22 and Dan: I really appreciate you two for sharing this! :thumbsup:

I pulled up on the seat attached to my 2.5 year old KS i950 this weekend while unloading and I think it need some love. The KS squeaked and moved ~1". It extends and stays locked when fully extended, but squeaks and moves up a bit when I try putting it all the way down.

My KS post is out of warranty and I'm hoping I don't have to send it away to get it fixed.


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## edwardedward (Jan 4, 2011)

I completely stripped mine down recently and I was having problems with the head where the actuation valve is. I wanted to get to these parts after having done most of the rebuild mentioned above. I was still getting problems of proper operation even after having gone through the rebuild a couple of times. So, after a liberal dose of heat from the paint stripper gun and some decent leverage I managed to twist the head part off with some good force against the saddle. I jammed the seatpost in the frame to hold it tight. It still took some leverage - but eventually it went.

After that I stripped down the head parts, cleaned everything and did another rebuild.



I think the problem for me was that I was only getting 150psi in the air chamber. Once I thought I had managed to get about 200 - 220, but I think that it wasn't pushing air into the chamber and it was just reading at the pump and little bike pump nozzle that I had made up. I put it back on the bike and it would still not return well. I tried everything from taking some of the surface with a scotch pad from the top (DU?) bush, to removing the rubber scrapper ring, all to try and reduce friction. In the end I ended up all told stripping it down about 10 times. Must have replaced the oil five times!!!
On the final go it finally felt that I had got around 200 to 220psi - and tell you what....... that finally sorted it. The action is now fantastic. I did need to enlist the help of the wife to actuate the pump as you can just not do it all by yourself.
It was really satisfying when it finally went back on the bike and was all working. Went for a ride this morning in the freezing cold - and just marvelous.
Oh yes, forgot to mention - this post was some dodgy purchase off ebay. A present to myself for my birthday. You can probably imagine my frustration whilst trying to fix is - but determination set in.

All sorted now!


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## edwardedward (Jan 4, 2011)

Forgot to list the parts in the picture, from left to right:

broken leftover rim of threadlock that was left at the bottom of the threaded section
pin that holds lever in place - mine is the R remote version
red lever
pin that pushes down onto valve
little seal ring that goes into the groove - the ring is split / broken on mine 
return spring - pushes the pin up and off the top of the valve
top of the shock unit with black valve piston in the top / centre

I looked to see if I could get the valve out of the top of the shock unit, but couldn't see any easy way or circlips to have a go at. Didn't need to in the end. It was a lack of pressure that really was holding things up.


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## G_g (Jun 13, 2008)

Anyone has the size for the quad ring inside the black piston? Mine was damaged, and I got a replacement one that seems to be the wrong size, as I simply can't pass the inner tube through that black piston. With the previous quad ring it was also a struggle, it might have even been when I inserted the inner tube that I damaged that quad ring, but anyway, it seems both the one that was damaged and this one are not the right size, the inner diameter of the quad ring isn't large enough so that I can insert the inner tube in the black piston

Just for reference, what I got (I forgot the small quad ring in the rod)

O-ring 15x1.5mm
O-ring 18x2mm
Quad 9,19x2.62mm
Quad 13,94x2.62mm (This is the one I think I have the wrong size, and wanted someone to measure theirs if possible)
Quad 15.54x2.62mm

1 Unit of each, but there is also the small quad ring on the top of the rod, that I forgot to measure and buy


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

*Pumping it back up*

FYI - If you don't have shrink tubing to seal the inflation needle, you can use the liner from a sealed cable housing end cap. 
Makes a perfect gasket.










Sealed up better than shrink tubing for me.


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## johnoats (Jan 25, 2011)

The cable housing worked a treat 
The post was reluctant and slow, to reach full travel.
Psi down to 150, pumped back to 200 good as new 
Great information on total rebuild for future reference 
Cheers


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## Canadmos (Aug 1, 2005)

I have a KS DropZone, which looks pretty much the same as the i900r. 

The thing has been awesome since I got it. However today after a ride (it worked without issue during the ride), I cleaned my bike off with a hose and then while drying it off, I noticed that I was having trouble getting the seat to lower. Turns out the clip thing on the end of the cable had slipped to the very end of the cable.

So I fixed that and put it back to where it was, but now the post seems to go up faster than what it did and I cannot get it to go all the way down. If I sit on it and force it all the way down, it will bottom out but then slide back up a quarter inch or so as soon as I lift weight off of it.

Any thoughts on what I should look at? I keep the post very clean and wipe dirt off of the seal and post after every ride. Every couple of rides I also pop the big red collar off the post and put some Slickoleum in there. I also notice that the grease I put in there disappears pretty fast. Could it be going inside of the post and causing it to not be able to reach the bottom?

Could it be the heat effecting the post? Today it is super hot and humid here and I used the post quite a bit during the ride.


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

Sounds like you just need to adjust cable tension. The ever might be slightly activated.


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## johnoats (Jan 25, 2011)

Thanks for an excellent reference guide d-bug 

Canadmos
The older posts didn't vent at the base cap, 
So depending at what hight the post was at when the red collar was screwed back on determines how fast the post returns up, and the cushioning on the way down because of the trapped air pressure,

The new ones have a hole to vent the pressure in the base cap ( not visible unless removed )


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## squiby (Jul 25, 2009)

johnoats said:


> Thanks for an excellent reference guide d-bug
> 
> Canadmos
> The older posts didn't vent at the base cap,
> ...


Awesome tip! My post was not fully extending unless I had left it overnight with the post up. i figured the air in the base was escaping when the post was down making a vacuum when it went up. I took the red collar off, unscrewed the base, got a needle to jamb some air in the little pin hole then drilled a hole in the base to help it equalize. Slathered it all with slik honey then threw it back together. Viola!! Works like new and took all of 20 min. Thanks for the info guys!


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## DrewFoglia (Jul 2, 2007)

I can't passed step #1. How are you all getting the nut off from the stanchion shaft? Are you using a spanner (or some such) on the red aluminum plate? I've tried to hold it with a needle-nosed pliers, but still can't get the torque on the nut.

Thanks.

BTW, ditto the gratitude of an excellent post.


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

DrewFoglia said:


> I can't passed step #1. How are you all getting the nut off from the stanchion shaft? Are you using a spanner (or some such) on the red aluminum plate? I've tried to hold it with a needle-nosed pliers, but still can't get the torque on the nut.Thanks.
> BTW, ditto the gratitude of an excellent post.


Yeah, I remember that being tough the first time. Do you have any PB Blaster (penetrating catalyst)? I think I borrowed an impact driver to get it spinning.

I ended up replacing that blue aluminum nut w/ a steel one.


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## Canadmos (Aug 1, 2005)

johnoats said:


> Thanks for an excellent reference guide d-bug
> 
> Canadmos
> The older posts didn't vent at the base cap,
> ...


I'm not sure what happened, but I left my bike alone for a few days and went back and tried to lower it and all seems to be fine now??

It did let out a bigger "woosh" of air than it usually does, perhaps it got clogged with grease or something?


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## DrewFoglia (Jul 2, 2007)

client_9 said:


> Yeah, I remember that being tough the first time. Do you have any PB Blaster (penetrating catalyst)? I think I borrowed an impact driver to get it spinning.
> 
> I ended up replacing that blue aluminum nut w/ a steel one.


Thanks, client_9. I finally got it off by tightening the end cap first. Then, the blue nut broke free before the end cap. I just tore mine down enough to put air in and lube the bushing more. Works great now!

Thanks to all


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## Dr.Zoidberg (Sep 9, 2007)

Lots of suggestions to use Slick Honey as lube under the red collar. I have Phil's Waterproof Grease and Park Tool Polylube; will either work just as well?


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

Dr.Zoidberg said:


> Lots of suggestions to use Slick Honey as lube under the red collar. I have Phil's Waterproof Grease and Park Tool Polylube; will either work just as well?


I'm not familiar w/ those, but do not put a heavy, sticky grease under the seal area.

I use Slickoleum (same product as Slick Honey but cheaper)

Order Slickoleum Grease

You can also use 00 grease (double zero grease)

These posts work great if you keep them clean and lubed.


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## Dr.Zoidberg (Sep 9, 2007)

client_9 said:


> I'm not familiar w/ those, but do not put a heavy, sticky grease under the seal area.


Phil's is made to lube bearings so I thought that would be good. Not sure what sticky grease is...when I saw the pics of Slick Honey being applied under the red collar I thought that looked anything but light!


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## KTMDirtFace (Aug 7, 2008)

Cool thread.

My i950 just broke again.. sags about 2-4 inch when I sit on it pogo stick. The other times it broke it sagged and would aslo not stay down I sent it in for repair before... im pretty sure its out of warranty now so I bought a new rockshox reverb so I could ride this weekend but may try to fix the ks for backup. I never did have a problem with it ever sticking its always been smooth the 3 or so years I have had it. I dont ride a lot though so realisticly its never lasted more than 10 rides probably before the internals crap out.


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

Dr.Zoidberg said:


> Phil's is made to lube bearings so I thought that would be good. Not sure what sticky grease is...when I saw the pics of Slick Honey being applied under the red collar I thought that looked anything but light!


Imagine if you mixed warm Vaseline with 80 wt gear oil. That's what you want in that bushing/seal area. (Hmmm, someone try this and LMK what happens)

I can recommend the Slickoleum ... it's $15 shipped for 8 OZ. 
That'll be enough for years. Great for rear hub / freewheel use too.
Order Slickoleum Grease


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## Canadmos (Aug 1, 2005)

And if you're in Canada, Slickoleum is now sold at MEC. This is what I put in/on my post and it has worked great for almost an entire year now without opening it up....besides the hiccup I mentioned earlier in the thread.


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## Dr.Zoidberg (Sep 9, 2007)

Yup, I'm gonna with slickoleum and did indeed seevit was sold at MEC so I will pick up some there. Thanks for the replies!


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## Alexis (Oct 21, 2013)

*dropzone problem*

hello from me. d-bug welldone for your try and for sharing with us. My dropzone has become very stiff 1,5 cm from the top position and stops there. I have to pull it a little with my hand so it goes on top. Yesterday I disassemble it and I saw that the guide pins were fine so I'm thinking of increasing the air pressure.
I want to ask which is the role of the heat shrink or tape or anything. The ball inflation needle screw onto the pump and then? The ball needle doesn't pass through the pinhole? Why we need this seal stuff?

PS. This is my first post


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

Alexis said:


> hello from me. d-bug welldone for your try and for sharing with us. My dropzone has become very stiff 1,5 cm from the top position and stops there. I have to pull it a little with my hand so it goes on top. Yesterday I disassemble it and I saw that the guide pins were fine so I'm thinking of increasing the air pressure.
> I want to ask which is the role of the heat shrink or tape or anything. The ball inflation needle screw onto the pump and then? The ball needle doesn't pass through the pinhole? Why we need this seal stuff?
> 
> PS. This is my first post


Welcome to the forums.
The heat shrink tubing is just to provide a seal while inflating the chamber.
The pinhole is much smaller than the needle, but the pinhole is in a hole that is slightly larger than the needle.

HTH


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## rezyst (Dec 9, 2013)

Hello

thank you so much for the job done on this post ! It really helps !
I had a sag of around 2cm and know I only have 1mm, when I sit on the post.
I tried to put preasure to almost 150psi.
But when I lower the post I can hear an air leak, which leads to drop of pressure inside.
If you have an idea ?
Do I have to put grease inside on the base plate to make leakproof ?
I noticed that the white plastic bushing has a "crack", I don't know if it can be a problem or "the" problem, and if it is possible to buy one and where ?

I had to built a tool to open the base plate, because I was not able with a c clip pliers : it was sliding outside the holes of the base plate and almost scratched the post ! (The extremity of the c clip pliers are conical and not parallel)
I can post a picture of it if it can help others

Remy


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## Dr.Zoidberg (Sep 9, 2007)

I contacted KS about the post not returning the last inch or so on its own. They said loosen the seatpost collar a bit (the clamp on the frame) and it worked for me.


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## Alexis (Oct 21, 2013)

Hello an happy new year to everyone!! 
I tried to put air into the pinhole but the air is trapped into the pumb. The measure shows 150psi but the air doesn't pass through the pinhole or escapes from the heat shrink. What am I doing wrong?


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## Alexis (Oct 21, 2013)

johnoats said:


> Thanks for an excellent reference guide d-bug
> 
> Canadmos
> The older posts didn't vent at the base cap,
> ...


Can you explain in more detail what you mean? I've got dropzone 2012 model and the problem is that the "rising" is slow and stops 1-2 cm before the top position. 
thnk you


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## johnoats (Jan 25, 2011)

Happy new year 


The red base cap if it has holes (4) in let's the base breath, 
Post goes up nice, comes down nice 
Too much grease at the base creates a valve 
Drop the post with your weight the air in the chamber is easily pushed out
Let the post back but two much greece stops the air entering back creating a vacume 
Slowing stopping the post getting full travel 

If the base cap does not have holes in it 
It has a lot more cushioning going down 
So depending how far stuck out the post is when put back together 
Determines how fast it goes up and down ( all down to the pressure or vacume in the base chamber )


If your post has good activation while the base cap is of it's probably down to one of the above 
If not your problem is elsewhere 

Hope this helps 
Sorry for my poor description


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## Alexis (Oct 21, 2013)

Thank you very much for your fast answer johnoats! 
My dropzone doesn't have any holes in the base cap. So I have to disassemble it or just drop the post a little, then unscrew the red collar and screw it again? I don't understand a lot these two phrases:
"So depending how far stuck out the post is when put back together 
Determines how fast it goes up and down ( all down to the pressure or vacume in the base chamber )"


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## johnoats (Jan 25, 2011)

No problem yes you've got it Alexis 

Speeding up 
Ok the theory is extend the post so all the stanchion is showing undo the top red collar
So air pressure inside the tube is normal with the outside world 
Now tighten the red caller back,

Lowering the seat post to its lowest point should now have more cushioning as the post goes down 
Taking up the space in the tube creating higher pressure 
Raising the post has no resistance so the hydraulic action should raise the quite quickly


Slowing down 
With the seat post at nearly the lowest level undo the red collar 
Again air pressure is equal inside and outside the tube tighten the collar
Raising the seat now is slowed down because as the post rises it creates a vacuum 
In the space it previously filled, 

Undoing the blue nut at the bottom will have the same affect as undoing the red collar


The holes in the red base cap do block quite easily 
It vents / breathes between the shaft and blue nut


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## Alexis (Oct 21, 2013)

johnoats thank you a lot for your advices! According your posts I find out something new today about my seatpost's problem. Please check here


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## johnoats (Jan 25, 2011)

Before doing anything drastic see if it is venting at the base
I guess you could use something like a ballon / finger off a rubber glove 
Tied on with a rubber band around the base 
See if it is exhausting and not allowing air back in


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## Alexis (Oct 21, 2013)

Hi again. 
Johnoats you've just save me from drilling my dropper. As you see at this video the seatpost exhausts fine.
The strange is that when I did this proccess that you told me, the post is working again!! Maybe sometimes doesn't extend until top but only 5-10mm below, but I'm ok with that.
I don't klnow why happened that. The only different thing I did this time was that I turn it upside down as you can see at the video. I had never done this before.


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## johnoats (Jan 25, 2011)

Oh nice one Alexis 

For it to vent like that it must have holes 
The next time you service it have a look n the red bottom end cap 
The holes run at right angles to the shaft and vents behind the blue nut 
If you get a Minuit take the bottom cap of, with the post at the lowest point remove excess grease 
From the bottom half inch clean the base cap put back together 
Hopefully that will get it 100 % 


Happy riding 
John


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

Alexis, did this fix your issue? I see this is very common, and most riders don't mind dealing with it. But it would be cool if you have found a fix!

Thanks,

Mike


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## Alexis (Oct 21, 2013)

mikey217 said:


> Alexis, did this fix your issue? I see this is very common, and most riders don't mind dealing with it. But it would be cool if you have found a fix!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike


Yes Mike it's working. Probably the two small holes were covered by grease.


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

Awesome! Thanks for the reply. 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


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## PierreR (May 17, 2012)

I have a problem with a KS IXR post (probably like i900) that I have not seen addressed here and I have exhausted all the things I can think of. The post will not release so it can rise. Its as if there is no valve at all in the system. 

I have tried off the bike, on the bike, disassembled for cleaning, pushing in the valve while trying to add air (up to 165 psi), pulling up while trying to add air with the valve pushed and nothing has worked. 

With the valve pushed I can depress the post about 1/8 inch or 4mm. Without depressing the valve it will not move. When I let up fast the post stops right were it was. I have pulled up on the post to almost full extension and when released goes quickly back to its original position. 

I can detect no oil leaks, sounds from oil or funny things going on that other people describe, everything is very smooth working without binding so I am reluctant to take the inner workings apart before getting ideas about what could be wrong. 

This is a seat post that has never been off a paved level bike path and has seen very light usage. I have it on my wife's bike so she can get started without help and then raise the seat up to riding height. She is very balance challenged and an orthopedic nightmare. I am reluctant to sent the post in as we only have 5 more weeks of riding before she has another ortho surgery that will close out the entire rest of the summer. Every damned day is precious. 

Any ideas?

I have had no issues with my LEV over the last year of singletrack.


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## PierreR (May 17, 2012)

I found the problem. The problem was a small stiff piece of wire, most likely from the cable sheath, that was coiled with the valve actuator return spring. The extra material did not let the actuator move far enough to open the valve before the spring compressed fully. 
Back in business now.


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## dream4est (May 21, 2003)

I was going to do this rebuild, but Rick at KS is letting me send in my post for service outside warranty. Sweet!!

The customer service at KS is great. Rebuilt it in 1/12. Worked for 5000 miles. Now they are gonna fix it up again.

One of the best MTB companies out there. The original design just keeps on plugging away.


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## Krachlatte (May 26, 2014)

Hi guys, Just wanted to ask you what kind of blue nut it is, since i screwed the thread in that nut, is is a default metric nut M8 for example ?
many thanks


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## climnron (Oct 29, 2010)

I was going to do a full rebuild on my post, as at full extension when weighted it drops 1/2 to 1 inch. But the reality is I don't have the time or desire to sit in the garage in the Phoenix summer heat. Does anyone know who is doing rebuilds? I contacted KS and they said go to BTI. I contacted BTI and they said contact the dealer who sold it to you. I hate that shop and will never go back. Is there a place that is doing this work or somewhere I can contact someone directly?


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## Dr.Zoidberg (Sep 9, 2007)

If you're being told to contact your original shop that sold it to you it sounds like other shops can do the service too. Maybe try contacting other shops in your area and see if they sell/service the post?


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## allthegearnoidea (Mar 27, 2014)

apologies for the mild resurrection of this thread, 
But! a Huge thank you to all of you for this thread, just helped me get a mates post back up and running good as new! was dropping a couple of inches when sat on it, adding air didnt work but full strip down clean and new oil,all is Good!
Massive thank you!


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## cakelly4 (May 20, 2012)

climnron said:


> I was going to do a full rebuild on my post, as at full extension when weighted it drops 1/2 to 1 inch. But the reality is I don't have the time or desire to sit in the garage in the Phoenix summer heat. Does anyone know who is doing rebuilds? I contacted KS and they said go to BTI. I contacted BTI and they said contact the dealer who sold it to you. I hate that shop and will never go back. Is there a place that is doing this work or somewhere I can contact someone directly?


I've done quite a few of these if you're still looking. There's also a lot of info on this subject here:

http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/ks-lev-diy-cartridge-rebuild-899659.html

Another option is to have your LBS order you a new cartridge (oil stick) from BTI. Replacing that is less work than servicing it but likely more expensive. I can't believe I missed most of this thread somehow when I was researching this issue a long time ago and making my own thread. Funny.

-Chris


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## rangeriderdave (Aug 29, 2008)

Anyone have a idea on why I can't get mine (900) to pressure up. I didn't have any problem with anything else.Tried using a ball inflator wrapped in shrink wrap and cable housing ends . I got a few PSI in it once but nowhere near enough.


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## allthegearnoidea (Mar 27, 2014)

Took me a while to get the fitting snug enough and get enough air through it, prefered method was with saddle attached, shock pump in vice for one handed operation, then saddle placed between me and vice holding the nozzle tight in the whole (a few extra layers of shrinkwrap and keep going till you the point where it pressures up,


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## cakelly4 (May 20, 2012)

If you're having a hard time getting a seal, I had good luck using an old piece of deraileure cable housing. Use a razor blade to strip a band of the outer black casing off, then break it down until you can get the internal plastic tube out. I was able to snugly fit a piece of this over the ball inflator and into the hole fairly snugly. 

-Chris


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## daven8844x (Oct 13, 2014)

Trying to resurrect this thread. I followed the instructions. I can get 200psi in the hole with my shock pump (and yes derailleur housing works best). When I pull the needle out, of course, I hear a quick gush of air exit. How do I know the air is staying in? When I put the needle back in, it does not read like it held the air from last time.

I am asking because after doing the complete service, my post compresses quite a bit when pressure is applied and the actuator is NOT actuated. The rest of the function works quite well, but when it is all the way up (or really in any middle position), it will compress with weight without the actuator being actuated. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Dave


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## allthegearnoidea (Mar 27, 2014)

I would check the oil level inside the central tube, would guess some has come out during the refitting process, 
Just be careful with undoing the cap as you have put a fair bit of air in it! ;-)


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## daven8844x (Oct 13, 2014)

I redid the servicing. When I put it back together, it seemed better (but still had maybe 1/8" sag). After I dropped it once, I heard a lot of air go out, and it was back to the way it was before.

Is it possible when I pour the excess oil out after putting in the plunger that oil is coming out of the central tube? Are we not doing this step? The directions I saw (the guy with flickr pictures) says to fill the main tube up to black rubber thing with oil, insert the central tube into the black rubber thing (which is difficult), fill central tube to top with oil, put plunger into central tube up to white cap, then tip over to pour out excess oil. Then put on end cap. Is that right?


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## cakelly4 (May 20, 2012)

Here's how I do it and it works great. First, I'll label the 3 main shafts as follows:

1.) The outer tube or stanchion
2.) The middle tube. This part is what the Internal Floating Piston (IFP or black thingy) slides up and down on
3.) Inner most tube. Slides into #2

So. Starting from scratch.

1. First off, consider replacing the o-rings if you haven't already. Worn rings are why these things fail. The o-ring specs for the LEV are very similar to the Supernatural and I have them all listed on my DIY thread (link below). The quad rings are the most important to replace.

2. Take #2 with the IFP installed on it and insert it into #1.

3. Use a thin tool or dowel to push the IFP all the way down into #1.

4. Fill #2 and #2 only with oil to a little below the brim.

5. With the actuator lever depressed against your work bench, insert #3 into the oil in #2. This needs to be in just far enough to allow you to thread the cartridge end cap back on. A little bit of oil will overflow but not typically enough to worry about so don't bother dumping it out.

6. Screw the end cap back on.

7. Inflate with the ball inflator and shock pump. It should read a pressure after you've pumped a few times but won't read once you remove the pump. Inflate to 150-250 psi (I typically use 200).

Let me know how it goes and I'll help if you still have questions.

Link to my DIY with seal specs:

http://forums.mtbr.com/general-discussion/ks-lev-diy-cartridge-rebuild-899659.html

Good luck. 
-Chris


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## daven8844x (Oct 13, 2014)

Alright. When I first disassembled, the IFP came out with #2. Following the flickr photo rebuild, I pushed the IFP all the way down in the tube #1 (using #2 to push on the edge of the IFP), added some oil to cover the IFP, and then inserted #2 in the IFP. Inserting #2 in the IFP took considerable force (and some banging with my hand). I now fear that I damaged the IFP.

Is the IFP supposed to move, because mine is stuck at the bottom and does not move (even if I put some oil in #2, press the actuator, and insert #3 to displace the oil). Does that sound normal for it to be not moving and stuck at the bottom of #1?

If not, and in any case if you recommend replacing the quad o-rings, I need to get it out. Any ideas on how to get it out?

Thanks a ton for your help!

--Dave


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## cakelly4 (May 20, 2012)

There's definitely a possibility that you damaged it. I did the same thing on my first attempt to rebuild my LEV. I used a rubber mallet to bang it back together and turned the quad ring into 2 o-rings.

Yes, it should move when the oil is displaced so you'll probably want to get it out of there and replace the quad rings on the IFP (same specs as the LEV). New rings will fit even tighter so you'll need to work the IFP back onto #2 using a tooth pick or similar - slide the IFP onto #2 until the inner quad ring bumps up against the tube, then use the pick to work the first edge of the quad ring over the metal tube edge while applying pressure to the IFP. Work your way around the ring working the first lip of the ring over the edge of the metal tube until the IFP pops on. 

As for getting the IFP out of there, sometimes just knocking #1 on the work bench will force it to slide out but you may have to get creative. Maybe a crochet hook or similar can be used to grab the inner ring of the IFP and slide the whole thing out. 

Good luck and let me know how things go or if you have any other questions. 

-Chris


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## daven8844x (Oct 13, 2014)

Thanks. I got the IFP out using a flat head that I had marred the head on last year, so it kind of had a small hookish to it. Glad I didn't throw it away yet . At least the inner oring looks a little gnarly. I am ordering all new orings. I'll let you know how it goes when they get here. Thanks again for your help.

--Dave


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## cakelly4 (May 20, 2012)

You're welcome. I hope things go well. Looking forward to an update. 

-Chris


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## cameden (Aug 28, 2013)

is this the same post as the Dropzone?


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## cakelly4 (May 20, 2012)

Pretty much. The Dropzone is a lay back version of the Supernatural. Internals are the same. 

-Chris


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## daven8844x (Oct 13, 2014)

Awesome. Thanks so much for your help. New o-rings fixed everything!! Works as advertised!!

--Dave


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## cakelly4 (May 20, 2012)

EXCELLENT!!

-Chris


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## daven8844x (Oct 13, 2014)

Actually, the action of the post returning from bottom to top is very smooth for the first 2/3, then it sticks for a second (maybe lifting a little bit very slowly), then it pops back up quickly for the rest of the 1/3. I wouldn't mind this so much, but if my seat post clamp is a little tight, this results in the post not returning all the way unless I manually lift using my other hand. Is this normal, or is something still not right? I tired increasing the pressure and probably have a good 180 psi in there. Going higher than that is difficult before the ghetto derailleur cable seal for the pump starts to fail.

EDIT: This action is in the damper. In other words, it does the same thing even when the action part of the seat post is not in the black tube that gets inserted into the bike seat tube (thus the any of the parts such as the roller bearing, top cap, wiper seal, brass pieces, etc. are not causing this).


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

I wonder if you have a small indent on the post, or a slight bend in it causing it to bind on the way up.


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## cakelly4 (May 20, 2012)

I'd be inclined to re-bleed it since you've isolated it to the damper. Maybe you've got a little air in the wrong place. Then try to get a tighter seal with your ghetto inflator to be certain you're getting a good 150-250 psi in there. That's all I can think of for now. Keep us updated. 

-Chris


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## daven8844x (Oct 13, 2014)

Actually, I lied. The damper is fine and has great action outside of the black tube. I did notice one of my little brass pins (the ones that go in the indentations on the gold part of the post) has a slight kink in it...wonder if that is causing the issue...? Any experiences there?


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## cakelly4 (May 20, 2012)

Haha. Ok. That makes more sense. I'd take your DU bushing and try sliding it up and down on the stanchion to see what that feels like. That's one area where a little damage can cause some major drag. Guide bushings should also be replaced if you're seeing some damage there. 

Keep me updated. 

-Chris


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## daven8844x (Oct 13, 2014)

Thanks again for your quick reply and willingness to help. I did not feel like taking things apart too much so I unthreaded the red cap. Action was good if I let the cap and DU bushing travel with the post (such that the post does not travel through the bushing or cap). Then I held the DU bushing in place such that post had to slide along it but not the red cap. Action was not good - had the sticky point. When I manually slide the bushing along the post, though, I cannot feel anything particularly bad. In any case, would the DU bushing just need replacing in this case or could it possibly be damage on the post itself (I hope not)?


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## cakelly4 (May 20, 2012)

I've had a few DU bushings that look fine but don't slide well when the post is assembled (I think they're slightly deformed and tighten up around the stanchion when snugged down with the collar). I doubt that the post itself is damaged. I'd start by replacing the DU bushing and see what you get. 

Good luck and keep me posted. 

-Chris


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## cbarmstrong (Oct 13, 2015)

Thanks so much for all the info in this thread. I'm a bit nervous about removing the aluminum cap on the cartridge itself if it's loaded with 150psi. For those that have done this do you depressurize it somehow or does just having a rag over top of it while loosening it with the c-clip pliers do the trick? I'm expecting that cap to come flying off!


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## daven8844x (Oct 13, 2014)

cbarmstrong said:


> Thanks so much for all the info in this thread. I'm a bit nervous about removing the aluminum cap on the cartridge itself if it's loaded with 150psi. For those that have done this do you depressurize it somehow or does just having a rag over top of it while loosening it with the c-clip pliers do the trick? I'm expecting that cap to come flying off!


It will indeed come flying off. But it's pretty light weight. Just hold a rag over and point it away from you. I did it outside in the grass so it would not shoot across the garage floor.


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## cakelly4 (May 20, 2012)

cbarmstrong said:


> Thanks so much for all the info in this thread. I'm a bit nervous about removing the aluminum cap on the cartridge itself if it's loaded with 150psi. For those that have done this do you depressurize it somehow or does just having a rag over top of it while loosening it with the c-clip pliers do the trick? I'm expecting that cap to come flying off!


If you loosen VERY slowly, it's possible for the pressure to drain slowly without it flying but there's still a chance for a loud pop. Keep a rag wrapped around it to help catch it. Also, rather than using c-clip pliers, I've found that the Red-handled Park Spanner tool (SPA-2) fits perfectly in the cartridge cap holes. This will give a more solid grip on the cap.

Good luck.

-Chris


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## cbarmstrong (Oct 13, 2015)

cakelly4 said:


> If you loosen VERY slowly, it's possible for the pressure to drain slowly without it flying but there's still a chance for a loud pop. Keep a rag wrapped around it to help catch it. Also, rather than using c-clip pliers, I've found that the Red-handled Park Spanner tool (SPA-2) fits perfectly in the cartridge cap holes. This will give a more solid grip on the cap.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> -Chris


Awesome, thanks. I'll try to find the park tool as the c-clip tool I have wont even budge it.


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## Desertride (Nov 1, 2012)

I would appreciate feedback from the rebuild experts here.

My Dropzone remote has not seen very heavy use, but I am well over 200lbs laden with gear. It is now just shy of its two year warranty window and has begun to sag a few mm when I sit on it. I am now trying to figure out what my best course of action is to address the problem before it gets worse, but am not sure how extensive the service required is.
Please tell me whether I need to:

1) Do basic partial disassembly clean and relube
2) DO the above but also add some air through the pinhole valve
3) Do a complete disassembly/rebuild service to purge air from the cartridge
4) Do the above as well as swap seals/o-rings etc.
5) Just send it back to KS who will actually take care of it ( I have heard that they sometimes blow you off it is a slight sag "within normal parameters")

Two pieces of info that factor in here: I bought the post in the US but it is now with me out of the country so getting it back to them, while doable, is not as simple; in terms of my technical knowhow, I am fairly competent with servicing forks and shocks and think I have the necessary tools but worry I might fubar something.

Thanks for the help and especially to those who figured out how to DIY it and shared their knowledge.


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## unaware (Sep 22, 2012)

Sounds like you need to do #3. It doesn't sound like the black ring/seal is bad but it could be worth replacing if you're that far into it.


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## cakelly4 (May 20, 2012)

Desertride,

If you're going to do a full rebuild for the first time in almost 2 years, replacing the seals is a no brainer. Would be a bummer to have done all that work and not replace seals that are completely due for replacement. I'd go either warranty or option 4. If you haven't seen my DIY on the LEV (link below), you should check it. Seal sizes are listed for the LEV and the most important ones (the 3 quad rings) are identical. The rebuild process is also very similar with some differences listed later in my first post. I'm planning on making some updates in the next few months to get some better detail as well but I'm happy to give you some pointers along the way if you tackle this. Just post questions on my thread or shoot me a PM.

Here's the link:

http://forums.mtbr.com/components/ks-lev-diy-cartridge-rebuild-899659.html

Good luck

-Chris


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## Desertride (Nov 1, 2012)

Thanks so much. PMd you.


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Another resurrection.

I found it impossible to slide the tube through the IFP with IFP being inside the stanchion, as per d-bug's instructions. So I had to somehow remove the IFP from way down the stanchion, to try and put it on the tube first, then insert them both in the stanchion.

I rested the tube on top of IFP inner seal, filled it with oil, and pushed the rod inside, while pressing on the lever. Note I didn't touch or hold the tube in any other way except pushing the rod inside. Oil pressure drove IFP and the tube up until tube met the seal head on rod. The gap under IFP thus created was enough to fish the IFP out with a j-bend spoke.

To drive the tube through the IFP, now that I had them both outside, technically I needed something called a "bullet": a smooth shaped, tapered metal piece that guides a tube through a seal by expanding the seal gradually to the tube's outer diameter. I used a thin walled, 1/4" square drive, ground down, 10 mm socket for this; its outside diameter happened to be 15 mm, closely matching the tube. The socket's drive side edge is smooth enough not to catch on the seal. The ground down side helped keep the socket stable on the tube's end.


If I get to do this next time I won't try to drive the IFP alone to the bottom of the stanchion, nor attempt to drive tube through IFP that way.


PS.
I used a spent ball pen cartridge (with the ball removed) and a piece of inner tube to inflate the post. Cartridge, which is essentially a long, thin, and somewhat flexible plastic tube, went on the inflation needle. The metal conical tip of the cartridge went through the rubber which sealed it against edge of the hole.

Should have read this thread to the end; the shift cable housing inner liner idea sounds like a better solution!


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## wvn (Jan 6, 2018)

Hi,

I have a problem with my i950. It seems like the valve which regulates the oil flow does not close itself. I can drop the post without actuating the lever. Can someone tell me how the valve is supposed to close itself?
Thanks in advance.


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

wvn said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have a problem with my i950. It seems like the valve which regulates the oil flow does not close itself. I can drop the post without actuating the lever. Can someone tell me how the valve is supposed to close itself?
> Thanks in advance.


Disconnect the actuating cable from the seatpost switch and operate the switch with your finger and see if it works properly.
If it does, then you have the cable tension too high and need to back it off.


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## wvn (Jan 6, 2018)

d-bug said:


> Disconnect the actuating cable from the seatpost switch and operate the switch with your finger and see if it works properly.
> If it does, then you have the cable tension too high and need to back it off.


Hi and thanks for the quick reply. It is the lever actuated version. I'm pretty sure that the oil valve doesn't close properly. But I have no idea how it is supposed to close itself in the first place. The spring only pushes back the little actuator knob right?


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## d-bug (Mar 18, 2005)

wvn said:


> Hi and thanks for the quick reply. It is the lever actuated version. I'm pretty sure that the oil valve doesn't close properly. But I have no idea how it is supposed to close itself in the first place. The spring only pushes back the little actuator knob right?


That's my assumption.
That post does allow for dirt to get in the top by the actuator. Might be that over time enough dirt has worked its way down by the actuator that it's clogging it up.
I wold try pulling the post from the bike, removing the seat and hand lever, then try doing things to work any grime out.
Maybe drop some water/oil in there and try to blow it out with compressed air.
Could just be the spring has weakened.
Or the lever is binding against the activator button too much.
Have you tried removing the hand lever to see if the valve closes properly?


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## wvn (Jan 6, 2018)

Actually I already removed the valve, spring and knob. The only thing that's still in place is the head of the dropper which is screwed into the stanchion. 
The valve closes somewhat normal. Is seems to not fully close without a little extra force. (I mean sitting flush) But it should be enough to stop the oil flow.
But the spring doesn't look like it is pulling the valve to it's close position. So I think I'm stuck until I find out how the valve is suppose to close in the first place.


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## racer761 (Jan 11, 2019)

tracer75 said:


> excellent ilustration... many thanks for posting..
> 
> got a question.... what stops the air from leaking out the pin hole ??


this is what i'm curious about too!
since there is no valve in it how the heck is the pressure suposed to stay in the cardridge???


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## cakelly4 (May 20, 2012)

There’s a thick o-ring covering the very small pinhole on the inside. This o-ring is pressed against the pinhole by the cartridge wall when it’s assembled. As you add air, it essentially “burps” past the o-ring, into the chamber and is then trapped. This is why you cannot release the air pressure except by unthreading the end cap. 

I hope that answers your question. 

Chris


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## cakelly4 (May 20, 2012)

There's a Supernatural exploded view and a view of the pinhole beneath the o-ring on my thread below if you haven't already seen it.

https://forums.mtbr.com/components/ks-lev-diy-cartridge-rebuild-899659.html

Chris


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## racer761 (Jan 11, 2019)

cakelly4 said:


> There's a thick o-ring covering the very small pinhole on the inside. This o-ring is pressed against the pinhole by the cartridge wall when it's assembled. As you add air, it essentially "burps" past the o-ring, into the chamber and is then trapped. This is why you cannot release the air pressure except by unthreading the end cap.
> 
> I hope that answers your question.
> 
> Chris


hmm...it's just hard to imagine.
i've seen this very little hole on the end cap, on the inside under the o-ring and on the outside in one hole. would you recommend to unscrew the cap a turn or two to pump it?


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## cakelly4 (May 20, 2012)

Unscrewing a turn or two would only move the pinhole further away from the air chamber so no, I would not recommend that. It’s agreeably a huge PITA to add air to that thing which is why I sold the one my wife owned and will never own another one. A shock pump-accessible air chamber makes service much easier. 

Chris


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## imacleod (Mar 24, 2019)

_"I bought a i900-R on eBay, that turns out to not hold much air pressure. I tried to strip it down but can't get the DU bushing to budge. I've tried WD40, heating the outer post up with boiling water, but it doesn't want to come out. Any suggestions on how best to achieve that?

The shock is cosmetically in good condition - bar a small scratch on the post, it doesn't seem to have slack; however, when I run toothpick round the top of the DU bush there are three slots in it. All the pictures I've seen of these bushes show them having a plain surface. Is that normal, or a sign of serious abuse from the guide pins?"_

_Having pressed the post out I now see that what I thought was the DU bushing is the roller bearing. Are it and the DU bearing designed to consumables in a rebuild? Neither the groves in the DU or bearing line up with the main tube guides/pins. I can't see that either could be removed without damage._

Turns out the post was well-and-truly bodged. There was no DU; there was a second wiper washer installed under the roller bearing, which was pressed in rotated 20 degrees from where it should have been; the small o-ring on the damper rod had been nipped on assembly, causing stiction. I can now see how things will work when assembled correctly...


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## Buckeye1887 (Feb 16, 2021)

Anyone want a free dropper post? Just tried rebuilding mine, and I can't get it pressurized. I'm tired of fighting it. You pay shipping, I keep it out of the landfill.  

Shoot me a message.


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