# If i was to buy a bike "350LBS"



## chetrogers (May 2, 2004)

Im almost sure im going to be buying a bike this weekend at the bike shop "I have another thread going on what bike to get" im curious with my weight what extras i will need.Im sure it will matter on what bike i get but im almost betting its going to be around 300 to 500 dollars for the bike.first thing is im going to get is a big butt seat  .Might get a new rim/tire setup,Will i need a stronger seat post? or is there anything i should be looking for when i go to the shop "something the guy not mite tell me"

Any tips or what not..Im really not to comfortable going to a bike shop being this big but i need a bike and hope to god it dont break if i sit on it


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## Tracerboy (Oct 13, 2002)

whatever man, good on ya for deciding to get a bike and lose the weight. I weighed 301 when I started riding again. 

I wouldn't worry about the seatpost. I trashed a good 3 or 4 of them but I had some prior MTB experience and did it jumping. I also demolished the stock saddle almost immediately. Again, a 301 lb guy doing a 4-ft drop to flat. Not something you need worry about, buy a different one for comfort if you like, but you can probably ride the factory saddle until it breaks then buy a different one when you know more what you're looking for. Especially if you're buying a cross-bike, as those frequently come with more comfort oriented saddles. Really I think that a $500 bike from the LBS will be fine for you to ride bone stock if you're going to be keeping on paved surfaces and not using the bike aggresively. Buy a helmet. Maybe a camelbak if you plan on going on longer rides.


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## GhstRydrX (Jan 22, 2004)

In your price range and size. The biggest concern you should have is the wheelset. I started riding @ 378lbs. The first mtn. bike i bought was a specialized hard rock comp. the big tires really sold me.....If i only knew then, what i know now. Factory wheels are going to be a pain in the a$$. you might get 10 miles in or you might just be turning out of your driveway. It`s gonna happen.Plink rub rub rub. Spoke breakage argh... I would try too swap for anything stronger, or just upgrade with a lil more budgeting. My second rig was a schwinn moab1 96&97 models. Thus far, all the frames have been chromoly steel hardtails(various grades). most company`s offer lifetime warranty on there steel hard tails. alum. and squishy`s usualy has a 5 year. Regardless of the initial quality. it was the best decision i ever made. Nothing like being a tank and floating through the air.......Dave


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## chetrogers (May 2, 2004)

When i go to the bike shop what kind of rim/tire setup should i be looking for.Im sure they will know but i dont know anything about bikes.I dont want him to sell me something i dont need that is expencive..Im assuming more spokes are better.Any width thats better or tubes that are better.Im sure they can tell me but it would be good to hear it from you guys so i know that he's just not making a sale..Thanks guys.


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## Tracerboy (Oct 13, 2002)

well lets talk about your plans for the bike.

IF you plan on riding tamely, not doing ANY jumping, then your factory wheels/tires will be absolutely fine until you wear them out. If you're buying this bike specifically for riding 'round town and for fitness, get a cross bike. 

IF you plan on hopping up/down curbs, and would like to give yourself the opportunity to do some light trail riding once you're a bit lighter, get a mountain bike. 

If you decide that you need a cross bike, that is all that you need (besides a helmet). You may want to think about gloves, water (bottles or a hydration pack), and some sunglasses, but all you *need* for that type of riding is a decent stock bike that's put together professionally (read: not put together by wal-mart) and a helmet. 

If a mountainbike suits your needs better, I still think that upgrades (other than trading the knobby tires for some semi-slicks) at this time are foolish.
There are so many wheelsets out there that picking one before you start riding would be pointless. Also, you have to remember your price range. Within your price range, wheels won't vary that much. 

Bottom line is this: You're NOT that heavy. The parts on a $500 bike won't crumple beneath you unless you take to the air. A lot of people will try to sell you on what works for them, and while we're all trying to be helpful, sometimes they forget that what's best for them might not be best for someone else. You don't need gucci parts, and you don't need to be upgrading rims. You need to buy the most bike you can in a STOCK bike. If in 2 months you decide that you really need new wheels (or you find out the hard way by tearing out a bunch of spokes), see if your LBS can hook you up with a deal, or order up a $100 pair of rhyno lites from jensonUSA or whoever and have your LBS true them up for you. 

The cross to bear as a clydesdale is that beefy equipment isn't cheap. You're basically faced with the option of ponying up a lot of dough for parts and build that you can really pummel, or riding in a more peaceful fashion and being able to ride less expensive parts. Since you don't know what type of riding you like yet, I suggest you get a $500 hardtail mountain bike, and the only change that you make is to switch out the knobby tires for semi-slick tires (tires that have a less pronounced tread pattern to make riding on ashpalt nicer). That gets you riding right away (a plus), will give you some added confidence on ashpalt as your ride will be a bit beefier than a cross bike, and will be platform that has many possibilities for you down the road should you drop some pounds and want to try some trails. Just make sure that your LBS offers good service, like free tune-ups and on the bike adjustments, etc. One of the best ways to get mileage out of lesser quality parts is to be religious about maintenance.


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## chetrogers (May 2, 2004)

Thanks for the replys guys..I will say what I'm going to be doing with the bike.

I want a bike for riding on concrete eventually i want to ride it to work and back..About 6 miles one way.I would be riding the bike on gravel roads every once in a while.I would never jump it.I just remember when i was in high school and sat on a bike that the tires went way down..I dont want to pop the tires..Do they make stronger tubes etc...Im thinking a regular bike will work but i really would hate to have them pop with 350 pounds on them..


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## SILVERHUFFY (Jan 13, 2004)

chetrogers said:


> Thanks for the replys guys..I will say what I'm going to be doing with the bike.
> 
> I want a bike for riding on concrete eventually i want to ride it to work and back..About 6 miles one way.I would be riding the bike on gravel roads every once in a while.I would never jump it.I just remember when i was in high school and sat on a bike that the tires went way down..I dont want to pop the tires..Do they make stronger tubes etc...Im thinking a regular bike will work but i really would hate to have them pop with 350 pounds on them..


don't worry about the tubes-just pump em up (they will be fine)
I just want to say if you decide to commute to work,the consistancy will do wonders for your fitness!
personally I went from 230 to 190 (depending on the sammy intake!) in 10 months commuting to work and back...
but all that aside- don't fear the bike you choose, it will hold up,that's not to say you won't be replacing parts as you go along (cause you will-everyone does) and it's kinda fun too!
alot of people here get stoked (like myself) when someone is getting into a bike (like yourself!)
it will change your life...

take care-and happy trails bud!!!


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## SILVERHUFFY (Jan 13, 2004)

and go for a steel frame if you have the option!

happy trails...


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## Tracerboy (Oct 13, 2002)

Yeah, I especially think clydes get stoked on a person getting a bike because its been such a good move for so many of us. 

Chet, for your desires a steel crossbike is probably your best option. You sound concerned about the tires, just explain your concerns to the guy at the LBS and ask him about the sidewall strength of the tires (I stretched the bead of one of my tires early on - once again jumping) and to give you peace of mind maybe think about buying a pair of stronger tires (the tubes shouldn't concern you).

Most IMPORTANT thing (I think). Buy a bike that fits comfortably, a bike that you will actually ride. Everything else falls into place.


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## chetrogers (May 2, 2004)

Do you know if any and what major brands have steel frame.Thanks


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## chetrogers (May 2, 2004)

Archdukeferdinand said:


> Yeah, I especially think clydes get stoked on a person getting a bike because its been such a good move for so many of us.
> 
> Chet, for your desires a steel crossbike is probably your best option. You sound concerned about the tires, just explain your concerns to the guy at the LBS and ask him about the sidewall strength of the tires (I stretched the bead of one of my tires early on - once again jumping) and to give you peace of mind maybe think about buying a pair of stronger tires (the tubes shouldn't concern you).
> 
> Most IMPORTANT thing (I think). Buy a bike that fits comfortably, a bike that you will actually ride. Everything else falls into place.


When i think of a crossbike i think of something with narrower tires then a mountain bike..I know nothing about bikes "as you can tell" a crossbike isnt like a tenspeed is it..I search on the net and im a little confused.I find beach bikes and tenspeeds when i search for crossbike..I very much appreciate everyones help.


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## Tracerboy (Oct 13, 2002)

Yes that's right, the tires are typically a bit narrower than MTB tires, and wider than road tires. When I say a crossbike I mean a comfort bike/hybrid bike/whatever other terms for an all-purpose bike that's between a mountain bike and a road bike. Something like a Giant Sedona for example. This type of bike will give you a riding postion that it more upright, easier on the back, and just comfort-oriented than MTBs or road bikes (where the geometry is more oriented toward performance). just run a wider tire if it puts your mind at ease.


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## chetrogers (May 2, 2004)

I must admit something like this looks nice to me.

http://www.trekbikes.com/bikes/2004/citybike/navigator300.jsp#largerview

but i know nothing about the model


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Chet,

First off, it’s best to honest about the type of riding you’ll do and I think you have been. Given the type of riding you mentioned, a hybrid might be better suited for you especially as a regular commuter. They feature a more comfortable riding position, faster rolling tires, adjustable stems (in many cases) and forks made for street riding.

The Giant Sedona mentioned by Ferdinand is a good example as would be the Giant Cypress. The main difference between the two is the wheelset. The Sedona comes with 26” mountain bike type rims and the Cypress comes with 700c type wheels which are larger diameter and narrower than those of the Sedona.

I bought my wife a ladies style Sedona (step through frame) last summer and it is a nice bike for path riding. They usually have a suspension fork and a suspension seat post too. If you get this type of bike, I would recommend trying the saddle a while before swapping it out for a large cushy seat as it may not be necessary or might even be uncomfortable on long rides. Be advised that you will have some soreness in your butt for a few weeks no matter what seat you use, but it should toughen up after that. If it’s still real sore and not getting better, you might consider a different seat. Personally, I find the real large seats are not all they look to be if going for extended rides and the suspension seat post will take the edge off the bumps. You will likely have to adjust the spring for your weight in the seat post and maybe the fork too. Make sure this is possible before you plunk down the cash for a new bike.

As for the wheels, the 700c wheels commonly found on hybrids are about 35mm to 38mm in width and have some tread, but not like a typical mountain bike tire. They roll MUCH better than even a slick or semi-slick mountain bike tire. I have a Cannondale H400 with 700c wheels and it flies on the street compared to my mountain bike and even compared to my wife’s Sedona.

This is why I would recommend the Cypress over the Sedona for you, although the Sedona would not be a bad choice. If I had not found such a steal on my H400 ($299 new although it doesn’t have a suspension fork), I would have probably have opted for the Cypress as the Sedona is definitely slower because of the wheelset. I wanted something for bike paths and riding around while at work between buildings. If you’ll be on more dirt than pavement, then a 26” wheeled bike may be better, but if you will spend the majority of your time on bike paths or pavement, then 700c would be better.

The Cypress has some models that have flat bars like a mountain bike. They make several options for this line and you should see them all.

I think the Giant hybrids are a great value and you wouldn’t go wrong with one, but you should also look for Specialized, Trek, Fisher and even Cannondale (if you can find a deal on one).

I would have to recommend against a mountain bike for basic commuting unless you can only afford one bike and will get onto more serious trails with it regularly. There some nice hybrids available in your price range. The typical range for a decent hybrid is about $350 to $550. I think Giant makes a Cypress with disc brakes for about $475.

Also, as for aluminum vs. steel frame, if you are riding an aluminum frame bike with a suspension fork and a suspension seat post, you won’t notice a difference in the ride quality like you would if you didn’t have those items. And a steel bike in that price range is likely to be heavier than an aluminum one.

Spend the time before you buy to shop around rather than after if you can stand the drama. Bike shopping is kind of fun and you’ll feel good about finding the right bike for you. Don’t worry about the tires holding you up. Just pump them up to max psi and they’ll be fine, and will roll easier too. Make sure it fits your body dimensions and is comfortable before you leave the shop with one.


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## cyclust (Apr 7, 2004)

chetrogers said:


> Im almost sure im going to be buying a bike this weekend at the bike shop "I have another thread going on what bike to get" im curious with my weight what extras i will need.Im sure it will matter on what bike i get but im almost betting its going to be around 300 to 500 dollars for the bike.first thing is im going to get is a big butt seat  .Might get a new rim/tire setup,Will i need a stronger seat post? or is there anything i should be looking for when i go to the shop "something the guy not mite tell me"
> 
> Any tips or what not..Im really not to comfortable going to a bike shop being this big but i need a bike and hope to god it dont break if i sit on it


Chet, I'm glad that your'e getting close to getting that bike. I'm also pleased to see how much support you are getting from all of us "biggies". While many disagreed with my earlier recomendations, all of the comments had merit. A few people recomended a hybrid, which is certainly a viable option. I used to have a Cannondale hybrid that was a great all around bike- basicly amountain bike with 700cc wheels. While technically these should be faster on the road than a mountain bike with smooth tires, I still think a hardtail mountain bike would be the way to go. Get the slicks that I mentioned earlier, then later if you want to start riding some trail, just pick up an extra set of wheels to put your knobbies on.The smaller diamater of a mountain bike wheel makes for a stronger, stiffer wheel. I have 2 sets of wheels for my Klein hardtail, and it makes it such a versital bike. One bike with 2 sets of wheels and I'm ready for anything. When you first start riding, find yourself a place that is flat as a pancake. If you are not in good shape and are a big guy, taking your new bike out and trying to conquer some hilly terain could sentance that bike to hang in the rafters for years. You have to start slow and easy and enjoy it- otherwise you won't be back. I don't know where you are from, but I you are anywhere near my neck of the woods, [east tennessee] Id be glad to try and hook up with you for a ride- as I'm sure many others would be.


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## chetrogers (May 2, 2004)

I just want to say thanks to everyone who posted anything to help me out.Its nice to know there are still people around who want to help out other people..I have been spending my spare time on the net looking at bikes i never have been so excited about getting anything before "besides a few guns i got in the past " I hope i can find one this weekend and feel alittle more comfortable about riding one and not having it break.Im leading more towards the comfort bike and hopefully they will have a bigger tire for it.I really want the rim/tire setup to be sturdy just for piece of mind  .Thanks for the help i really do appreciate it..Keep comments coming if anyone can think of anything.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

I would not be too concerned about your weight hurting the wheels. It's more about your riding technique than your weight. I weigh 270lbs before I put a stitch on and I'm well over 300lbs when clothed and wearing a hydration pack. I ride some nasty stuff at times and although I'm not overly abusive, I don't exactly take it easy either. Wheel problems are not an issue for me whether I've been on a $2K bike or a $300 bike. I run 50 to 55 psi in a mountain bike tire. I see just as many 150lb riders with wheel problems as I do Clydes.

Bike shopping is kind of like. . . . well ummm . . . . . well, you know what it's like. The longer you hold off your purchase, the better it'll be when you finally get "it". I could go on, but I think I'll just quit while I'm ahead. Let us know what you get. We like to live vicariously.


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## dirttorpedo (Jan 13, 2004)

*Wheels, wheels, wheels*

Hey there, great to hear you are getting into cycling. I've been riding a long time, but at one point I ballooned up to 260. I was commuting on my stock steel xc hardtail built by a reputable manufacturer and sold by my LBS. On my commute riding 100 % pavement and groomed trails I regularly broke spokes on the stock wheels. I didn't solve the problem until I switched to some cheap rynolite rim/deore hub wheels. Yes they provide more spinning weight and yes they create issues with some slicks, but at your weight I strongly recommend upgrading the wheels at first. You are going to bend/break seats, seat posts, and you may damage crank arms too.

I'm into trail riding/light free riding and after replacing most of the parts on my xc bike I bought a FR hardtail. It is not a commuter, but I haven't had any trouble with those beefy cranks and wheels. About heavy duty tubes/tires. If you need to you can get DH tubes/tires for a mountain bike. Yes, they are heavier and not ideal for commuting but they are designed to take more abuse.

If you are thinking of a hybrid, which is a logical choice as a fitness bike/pavement burner, consider getting some touring wheels. Touring bike wheels are built strong so that they can take the weight of panniers, etc. in addition to the rider. Touring bikes are also expected to get into some ungroomed road situations. You can also get some higher volume touring tires or CX tires which will provide a little bit more air volume.

Good luck with the purchase and enjoy riding.


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## chetrogers (May 2, 2004)

dirttorpedo said:


> Hey there, great to hear you are getting into cycling. I've been riding a long time, but at one point I ballooned up to 260. I was commuting on my stock steel xc hardtail built by a reputable manufacturer and sold by my LBS. On my commute riding 100 % pavement and groomed trails I regularly broke spokes on the stock wheels. I didn't solve the problem until I switched to some cheap rynolite rim/deore hub wheels. Yes they provide more spinning weight and yes they create issues with some slicks, but at your weight I strongly recommend upgrading the wheels at first. You are going to bend/break seats, seat posts, and you may damage crank arms too.
> 
> I'm into trail riding/light free riding and after replacing most of the parts on my xc bike I bought a FR hardtail. It is not a commuter, but I haven't had any trouble with those beefy cranks and wheels. About heavy duty tubes/tires. If you need to you can get DH tubes/tires for a mountain bike. Yes, they are heavier and not ideal for commuting but they are designed to take more abuse.
> 
> ...


Yikes..now im not sure..lol


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## GhstRydrX (Jan 22, 2004)

chet, i know. information overload right......Keep doing what your doing, surf the net too find something you`ll be happy with. Involve yourself more into the thought process of were you ride and the equipment that will permit such use. I`ve seen some nice cross bikes in the past, but i never thought they would be adequate for what my size and needs were.At the time i was 378lbs and 6'5". My riding was mostly urban terrain with the occasional rides through the forest preserves in chicago and surrounding suburbs. Potholes and curbs were my obstacles. and i knew i would need a lil stronger (beefier) equipment under me. On wheels which started my response, look at the spokes. if it`s factory built usually with nickle plated steel. They will break a lil quicker under your weight. if you can get some stainless steel spokes on the wheelset. you will be doing a little better for yourself.......Happy Hunting


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## Tracerboy (Oct 13, 2002)

chetrogers said:


> Yikes..now im not sure..lol


Well he's right however I think there are some things to take note of.

700 c tires are larger and inherently weaker than the 26" cousins. While he's bang-on about those wheels being faster, 26" wheelsets are simply stronger.

However-

I still don't think you're going to need to upgrade the wheels right away. Try the stock wheels. I rode my stock wheels on a $350 bike (from LBS, reputable manufacturer) for 2 years and have recently replaced due to wear on the rims. During this time I abused the bike, doing countless 1-4 foot drops to flat in urban riding. I also started riding trails on that bike, launching off of whoop-de-doos a lot and I never tacoed a wheel. I weighed 301 during the urban riding and 250 while trailriding. Went through a saddle and 4 seatposts so you KNOW I was being rough on the bike. I think the chief thing is to stay on top of truing and spoke tension. True wheels are happy wheels. This is why I was suggesting you make sure the LBS has a good service program (most do).


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## GhstRydrX (Jan 22, 2004)

there you go chet, both sides of the coin. Where one person had problems with seatpost and saddles. Another had spokes a popping! I`m sure we can find 20 other problems, especially in regards to the contact points(pedals,cranks, handlebars) we clydes affect. So i guess at this point i say, even with all the problems we`ve had over the years. We`re still crazy about our mtn. bikeing!! So you got your budget figured out. If you can, go and visit as many bike shops this weekend to get some variety. if you feel like that shop is informative and there not shinning you on. and you like what you see..literally GO for it..you`ll be much happier with yourself. Especially if it`s nice weather all through the weekend. I`ll be looking for your comments after the weekend..............Dave


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## chetrogers (May 2, 2004)

Is it possible that if i got a comfort bike that they could put wider tires on it.and be able to upgrade the rim ..Looking for 2.1 or bigger tire and stronger rim but not sure if they would have this setup..thanks guys im going out tomorrow to get a bike "If i find one i like" ..Going to the 2 major bike stores in My area..Thanks as always


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## chetrogers (May 2, 2004)

I bought a bike yesterday ..After all my research and tips from you guys i went with "Giant SEDONA® DX " it was only 360 bucks and i added a nicer seat and had them put a different tire on it that went up to 80psi in the back.Total cost was $415..I asked about upgrading the rim and he said he did have a set for $140.00 that he could sell me that are very strong but he didnt think i needed it for pavement riding"he actually talked me out of a $140 sale" witch i was very impressed with.It was dark when i got home and I only rode it for about a mile or 2 and it held me great..

I only rode a short distance and when i got done i was breathing harder then i though this is going to be a great way to lose weight "along with eating 1/3 the calories i used too..Thanks guys


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## GhstRydrX (Jan 22, 2004)

Congrats Chet, sounds like you found a good shop to work with also. I just got in from my ride with my son and saw your post. It`s a beautifull day here. Hope the same for you. You must be excited about riding some more today(saturday). When ya get ready to take a break at your pc. let us know how it went..........dave


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## Tracerboy (Oct 13, 2002)

Congrats chet, gotta love when a bike ends up cheaper than you'd hoped and the guy talks you out of an extra $140.

Good on ya for getting a bike and deciding to get healthy, its a great feeling. Let us know how things are going when you take a break from riding.


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## chetrogers (May 2, 2004)

I didnt get to ride as much as i wanted to today but still got in about a 4 mile ride.Raining hard here now.It was fun but i must say something that i dont think i have ever said to anyone before

"My butt hurts" lol..Well it does..I think im going to have to get one of those big spring really wide seats..I got a better springy seat then what it originally came with but I'm gonna need an even wider softer seat..Wish i could go out some more today but weather isn't great..O well theres always tomorrow


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## Tracerboy (Oct 13, 2002)

Nah, that's normal. Your butt will be mega sore for the first couple of time you ride.


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## tastycorn (Apr 10, 2004)

Yeah, give it at least 5 or 10 rides before you swap seats again. It has very little to do with weight. My wife is 115 lbs with a comfort seat and full suspension and she is still complaining after her first five rides this last week.

If you don't adapt, however, take a look at WTB. They may look to narrow to do the job, but they really support heavier riders very well.

RidePhat gives em 5 piggies.

http://www.ridephat.com/ridephat/showarticle.asp?section=extrastout&status=archive&num=54


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## willtsmith_nwi (Jan 1, 1970)

*Double wall rims!!!*

Make sure your rims are double walled. All those bends in the metal make it 4 times as strong.


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## TobyNobody (Mar 17, 2004)

*Stop worrying so much. Any bike is fiine.*

You don't need to worry about the durability of a $500 bike. The wheels and spokes and seatpost will hold up just fine under city riding. This holds true for Hybrids as well as mountain bikes. The advantage of a Hybrid is that being more appropriate for city riding will make you more likely to ride - and thats the key. Find a hybrid bike that feels comfortable and get it. Whats the worst that can happen? You break a few spokes? Get your wheel *relaced**. You bend a rim? Get it replaced. The frames on $500 bikes have 250lb riders _abusing_ them all over the recreational riding world, and they hold up fine. The wheels are pretty much the only things that really can't take a load, and they're also easy to fix replace in a year (its _over time_ how they go - not instant crumpling under the load) if they go. You won't know what you can use until you try.

*Getting a wheel _*relaced*_ with proper tension and stainless spokes *will stop the spokes from breaking*. The reason people have broken spokes is because they either have old wheels, cheap spokes, or a poorly built wheel. Using faux downhill rims like WhinoLights does not make for more durable spokes.


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## cyclust (Apr 7, 2004)

tastycorn said:


> Yeah, give it at least 5 or 10 rides before you swap seats again. It has very little to do with weight. My wife is 115 lbs with a comfort seat and full suspension and she is still complaining after her first five rides this last week.
> 
> If you don't adapt, however, take a look at WTB. They may look to narrow to do the job, but they really support heavier riders very well.
> 
> ...


Ahmen to the WTB saddles! I recently got a WTB Speed V and it's absolutely the most comfortable saddle I've ever ridden- and I've used a lot of saddles in my days.everything from the classic turbo's of the eighties to the 99 gram flite evolution with a carbon fiber shell and no padding [ although i've got plenty of my own] The WTB's have that great dropped nose and the "love channel" is simply great. And hey chet- everyone who is new to cycling always wants to run out and buy that "tractor seat" after their first ride- just give it some time- you'll be fine- but I don't think you'll find a better choice than the WTB's if you do upgrade the saddle.


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## Shmoodog (Mar 5, 2004)

*Bike Idea*



chetrogers said:


> Im almost sure im going to be buying a bike this weekend at the bike shop "I have another thread going on what bike to get" im curious with my weight what extras i will need.Im sure it will matter on what bike i get but im almost betting its going to be around 300 to 500 dollars for the bike.first thing is im going to get is a big butt seat  .Might get a new rim/tire setup,Will i need a stronger seat post? or is there anything i should be looking for when i go to the shop "something the guy not mite tell me"
> 
> Any tips or what not..Im really not to comfortable going to a bike shop being this big but i need a bike and hope to god it dont break if i sit on it


Like everyone says, try the seat that comes with your bike. It'll take a couple of weeks for you to get really "used" to it, but once you do it's far superior to one of the wide seats they have available for recreational riders.

As an idea for a bike... link:https://konaworld.com/2k4bikes/images/low/2K4_Hoss_650.jpg


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