# Paint stripping/works finish



## DrEVS (Apr 18, 2005)

I know it's not rocket science, but here's a quick rundown on my project. I had a Socom for a bit, and honestly my favorite thing about it was the works finish. When I decided to go back to my M1, I wanted to spruce it up a bit with a new finish and new parts.

I just followed some tips on how to strip paint and voila... home made works finish.
Here's the crap you get at your local auto parts place for $5:










Here's the crazy stuff that happens to your paint when you spray it on:



















And there's the final product:


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

It'll oxidize and dull since it's bare aluminum now. You can clearcoat it if that's the finish you want.

A little bit of Mother's Mag Polish and elbow grease can make that sucker shine like chrome.


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## SmilMick (Apr 9, 2006)

You clear coated it didnt you?

Aluminum doesnt rust, but it does oxidize. If you leave it 100% raw like that, you'll have to touch up the bike with aluminum polish or a scotch bright pad every few days cuz it will get really hazy and uneven looking. Just a warning.

EDIT: ^ ^ beat me to it!


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## Rover Nick (Jul 13, 2006)

That second pic just creeps me out, it looks like a disease or something


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

It'll dull to a point, and then stop. Aluminum oxide will only form on the surface, and will actually protect the material beneath it, unlike steel.

Gotta love those chemical strippers. Just watch that paint bubble up.


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## DrEVS (Apr 18, 2005)

I didn't do anything other than a quick scotchbrite. While at the Intense factory last year, I saw how they just take the works bikes out of heat treat, put stickers on them, and put them in the box.... no coating whatsoever. I'd actually prefer if it gets a bit darker over time. Not into that shiny look these days.

Yeah, that paint stripper is some nasty stuff. Oh, and FYI... don't spray it on your arm!


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## mtbgiovanny (Feb 13, 2006)

Rover Nick said:


> That second pic just creeps me out, it looks like a disease or something


indeed hahaha


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## MW (Jan 17, 2007)

Yup, it'll oxidize ... but won't hurt the frame one bit, I believe. Lot of folks don't care for the alOxi look, but I think it's cool: understated to the extreme.

Cool project. :thumbsup:

--MW


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## dirtydownhill (Aug 11, 2006)

Thats it, no other steps? Thats pretty awesome. Would it work the same on a cr-mo frame? Ive gotta dig that guinea pig bike out of my closet and give it a shot.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

With cromoly, you most defintiely need to take the proper precautions to inhibit oxidation. Cromoly rusts, rust will eat through it.


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## Huck Banzai (May 8, 2005)

cover it with honey and loose a pack of angry badgers on it....


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## Goliath_2 (Jul 29, 2004)

Dug up this thread with a search --- so if i strip my AL frame could i build it back up/ride it without a clearcoat? i just imagine it would be a pain in the arse to apply a nice, even clear coat on my own. would the oxidization really adversely affect the appearance of the frame? is it in fact true that the intense works finish is NOT clear coated? Thanks!


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Yes, aluminum does not need to be clearcoated. However, if there is no CC then it will oxidize on the surface. Oxidation will change the color. It's easy enough to touch it up with some Mother's Mag Polish though. This has all been covered in the thread.


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## Goliath_2 (Jul 29, 2004)

it won't affect the composition/integrity of the metal though (as with steel) right? you're fast dude, thanks!


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

The oxidation will not, it's just like anodizing. If anything, it's protecting the material beneath.

The stripping process... I don't know. I've stripped a couple of frames/parts and have not had any issues. I guess the chemical reaction would give off heat, but I wouldn't think it's nearly enough to change the temper/heat treating of the material. It will still void your warranty though.


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## Goliath_2 (Jul 29, 2004)

is that really the case with the Intense works finish; no clear coat?


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

I don't think they CC... but I can't confirm it.


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## DrEVS (Apr 18, 2005)

Goliath_2 said:


> so if i strip my AL frame could i build it back up/ride it without a clearcoat?!


Yes.

Strip the paint. Hose it off. Build it up. Keep it simple.

I just went outside to take some updated pics. Still looks as good as it did when I started this thread about a year ago. And it's not been babied... flogged through 4 days of muck at Whistler, the rocks of Bootleg, heat of AZ, etc...

I've been really happy with the results. The finish is very durable; No more worry about scratches.


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## DrEVS (Apr 18, 2005)

DrEVS said:


> While at the Intense factory last year, I saw how they just take the works bikes out of heat treat, put stickers on them, and put them in the box.... no coating whatsoever.


Not sure how else to say it....


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## Goliath_2 (Jul 29, 2004)

nice! that looks friggen sweet! i'll go get a can of that stuff - auto parts store i assume.


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## Goliath_2 (Jul 29, 2004)

DrEVS said:


> Not sure how else to say it....


shoot, i must have missed that. thanks:thumbsup:


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## mtb_biker (Jan 27, 2004)

Goliath_2 said:


> is that really the case with the Intense works finish; no clear coat?


That is correct


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## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

If you polish it up do you need to clear coat it?

I see lots of polished frames.. Santa Cruz especially.. they have no clear coat.. how are they kept shiney?


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## Rb (Feb 28, 2007)

That looks great!! :thumbsup:

I, too, have a raw bike. It's a great way to bring an older bike up to a 'new-school' look -- especially since you sourced the decals. My downtube was all scratched from shuttling/riding and looked hideous so I decided to strip it. Now I don't have to worry about paint AND it looks better! 

Here at the shop, the 'Works' finish is reallllly popular on our Intense sales.


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## tacubaya (Jan 27, 2006)

By clear coating them


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## splatman (Jan 30, 2007)

That looks tiiiiight! I'm thinkin I might do that to my 7point eventually, I think it would look pretty sweet polished too.


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## NorKal (Jan 13, 2005)

Rb said:


> Here at the shop, the 'Works' finish is reallllly popular on our Intense sales.


Which is kinda funny cause it saves Intense $$$ by not having to paint but costs us (the consumer) the same price as a painted frame.


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## rossp (Mar 7, 2005)

hmm - interesting - my M1 is getting a bit bashed up so I thought about a paint job but that looks cool.......I see my next project coming on.....

now - would this work with Marzocchi forks - I have a feeling their lowers couldn't take it - is that right?


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## frisky_zissou (Jun 4, 2006)

Is clear coating a difficult or hard process to do?

I am looking at trying this on an steel bike of mine. Does the steel rust regardless of the conditions its put through or is it only when it comes in contact with mud, water ect?


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## dtufino (Feb 6, 2006)

Quick Q:

does it work on pre painted Bikes; example Specialized P1?

Does it work with Powder coated bikes?

just curious!


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## rustyskills (Dec 23, 2007)

Looks like that stripper works really well was it a lot of work to get in all the little nook and crannies


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## wouterbiker (Dec 30, 2004)

*paint stripping*

hello,

i just started stripping my iron horse sunday.
i just like the look.

i ame just thinking abouth stripping my fork to.

how will this affect my fox 40?

are those outher legs alu r sommething else?

what do u guys think?

grtz, wouter


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## CrustyOne (Oct 29, 2007)

Look into the fork construction, I believe Magnesium alloys get used a lot for lowers, you dont want bare magnesium on your bike, its very reactive


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## mcrumble69 (Jul 31, 2005)

I have stripped frames/parts a few times and it works great.
The first time I clearcoated the frame and after a year it chipped,yellowed and looked horrible.

The last one I did was my Bullit last april. I left the frame raw(no clear) and used scotch brite every few months. It looked good all season.

I'm sure if I used a better clear or had a professional clearcoat the previous frame I would have had better results but scotchbrite was way cheaper  .

This pic was taken after 5 months of use.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Clearcoating is just like painting, if you know how, it's not hard to do. If you don't.... you'll get under/overspray, runs, bubbles, etc.

Steel needs to be clearcoated. There's moisture (water) in the air. It will corrode.

Yes... pre-painted and powdercoated bikes can still be stripped... That Intense was painted before... right? Let's think about that. Powdercoating may be harder or take longer to strip. The easy alternative is to take it to a powdercoater and have them dip it to remove all the paint.

Most lowers are magnesium. As mentioned, magnesium is very reactive. You could strip it, but you'd have to clearcoat it.


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## DeanH (Jan 9, 2008)

If your a weight weenie, stripping the paint can save up to almost 500grams (1lbs).

polishing a full frame is a bugger though, with getting into all the nooks and crannies


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## tacubaya (Jan 27, 2006)

DeanH said:


> If your a weight weenie, stripping the paint can save up to almost 500grams (1lbs).
> 
> polishing a full frame is a bugger though, with getting into all the nooks and crannies


500 grams? NO WAY JOSE :eekster:


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## DeanH (Jan 9, 2008)

up to  it varies a lot.

count in that to get a good paint finish, you need to give it a base coat too. 

Paint and base coating, weighs more then you think.

The easy way though, would be for someone to weigh their frame before and after.


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

I stripped my frame last winter, and rode the bike for a year in that condition. After washing, I'd touch up a few spots with fine steel wool, that would take just two minutes. No problems with layers of oxidation:


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## splatman (Jan 30, 2007)

Dang that looks nice! Did you polish it or is that just what it looks like stripped?


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## crazy Jim (Mar 31, 2005)

XSL_WiLL said:


> With cromoly, you most defintiely need to take the proper precautions to inhibit oxidation. Cromoly rusts, rust will eat through it.


I seriously doubt that there are much more then a handful of people on this board that keep their bikes long enough for the frame to rust through.


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

splatman said:


> Dang that looks nice! Did you polish it or is that just what it looks like stripped?


It's been handworked; after stripping with aircraft stripper, I used a steel brush, which you want to go easy with, don't get carried away with it, because you can do more harm than good. Then I used steel wool, starting with fine grade, finishing with triple fine grade.
This pic is from last year, right now the frame is in the paint shop. Originally, when I stripped it, it was to save a few bucks by stripping it myself before bringing it to a powdercoat shop. The more I worked the frame with the steel brush, the more I liked the way it was looking, so I decided to polish it out and ride it that way for a while. Now I want to try a color again.
When I tire of the color, I can allways strip and polish it again.


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## splatman (Jan 30, 2007)

Sweet, I'm liking the idea of stripping more and more! Maybe next winter that could be my project...


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## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

Renegade awesome work that looks great. Did you polish the cranks as well? Where did you get that fab bash guard from?


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

Karve, you might guess that looking at my pics that I don't care mush for stickers or decals. I wanted to complete that look by getting rid of the "Deore XT" that is usually seen on the outside of the Hollowtech 2 cranks. That was a little trickier, the laser marked letters are underneath a clear coat anodize; removing that anodize with mechanical means wasn't that easy. If there was to be a "next time", I would try easy off oven cleaner on the clear ano.
The bash guard is home made, as are the rockers and chainguide; I'm a machinist by trade.


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## boogenman (Sep 22, 2006)

Dang that M1 looks awesome, makes me wish I never parted with mine years ago. 
I might have to pick another one up for this summer. I know of a mint 03 med. going for $400


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## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

Renegade said:


> The bash guard is home made, as are the rockers and chainguide; I'm a machinist by trade.


Niiiice good to see people making bits  especially when they come out so sweet.


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## DrEVS (Apr 18, 2005)

boogenman said:


> Dang that M1 looks awesome, makes me wish I never parted with mine years ago.
> I might have to pick another one up for this summer. I know of a mint 03 med. going for $400


Thanks - its turned out really well. I tried parting with mine too (downgraded to Socom), but ended up coming back to her. Pure DH fun has no better ally than a buttery 4 bar. Here's the pic that came 0.5 seconds after my avatar pic:










Used M1's are such a great value and the design is so much fun on the trail; go for it!


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## Streamline.by.design (Apr 27, 2007)

I used a polishing kit that dremel makes and my bike came our awesome. I also did some spot painting here and there. I have repolished it once but just cause I was bored with mothers. It will amaze you as to how easy it is.
It is a 2003 GT iDrive I bought the frame off ebay and built it up from there.


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## Goliath_2 (Jul 29, 2004)

sweet, looks like i ressurected a popular thread. i like that works finish. i don't think they touch it with steel wool/scotch brite or anything. correct me if i'm wrong.


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## GnaR9 (Jul 7, 2007)

Here's a picture to clear up all the oxidation worry. Look in the inside corner of the "R" on my frame. The sticker is clear there and shows the original raw aluminum as the stickers were applied right after I stripped the frame and have protected the aluminum from oxidation. Now right next to it is obviously a slightly darker shade of aluminum. This is the oxidized, unprotected alloy. Not a huge difference.


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## y0bailey (Dec 19, 2006)

I am thinking about doing this, but I don't feel like completely disassembling my entire bike. I also don't have the tools to pull the bearings out of my rear suspension. Does this damage components and metal besides the paint on it?

I would basically pull my fork out, get all cables out of the way, and strip away. Problems galore?


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## Goliath_2 (Jul 29, 2004)

y0bailey said:


> I am thinking about doing this, but I don't feel like completely disassembling my entire bike. I also don't have the tools to pull the bearings out of my rear suspension. Does this damage components and metal besides the paint on it?
> 
> I would basically pull my fork out, get all cables out of the way, and strip away. Problems galore?


:nono: dude... i would recommend you avoid doing that.


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## NorKal (Jan 13, 2005)

y0bailey said:


> I am thinking about doing this, but I don't feel like completely disassembling my entire bike. I also don't have the tools to pull the bearings out of my rear suspension. Does this damage components and metal besides the paint on it?
> 
> I would basically pull my fork out, get all cables out of the way, and strip away. Problems galore?


Yah know what? Just go ahead and rattle-can it. :thumbsup:


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## kitsapfreerider (Nov 26, 2007)

SmilMick said:


> You clear coated it didnt you?
> 
> Aluminum doesnt rust, but it does oxidize. If you leave it 100% raw like that, you'll have to touch up the bike with aluminum polish or a scotch bright pad every few days cuz it will get really hazy and uneven looking. Just a warning.
> 
> EDIT: ^ ^ beat me to it!


rust is oxidation...basic chemistry


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

If it rusts, it does oxidize. But just because it oxidizes doesn't necessarily mean that it rusts.

It'll look like a$$ if you don't completely disassemble. You won't be able to get into all the nooks. Well... that and other things...


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## moshelove (Jun 8, 2005)

it's tempting to do that to my Giant Reign.


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## Streamline.by.design (Apr 27, 2007)

If the chemicals hit anything plastic or rubber it would destroy it. DON"T DO IT MAN! It just isn't worth it.


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## roku (Sep 24, 2007)

i used some nasty gel-crap when i did my frame. took the skin off your arm real nice, but was alot more elbow grease than i would have liked... that spray-on type seems to have worked much better, especially when you say "hose it off". 

As for pivot bearings. i took the dust sheidls off both sides so the only thing left was metal, then stripped. Origionally they were pretty "chunky" and i was going to replace them immediately afterwards, so i wasnt worried when i got a ton of paint chips and stuff in them. But pressing bearings is such a PITA that i just repacked them and rode, and they're not much worse than before.


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## kitsapfreerider (Nov 26, 2007)

i lost a lot of skin on my hands and arms because i couldn't get it off quick enough....now i have scars....i redid my 22. stock with stain stripper and my canoe with stain stripper...i need to try that spay stuff. I like the finish though on my mongoose bdd is going to stay looks nice and new...maybe down the line someday.


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## Swell Guy (Jan 20, 2005)

I stripped the paint off my VP-Free cause the paint got all scratched up and I also like the works finish. I hear what others are saying, but the aluminum on my bike under the paint is too shiny and scratched up. I'm thinking about hitting it with some steel wool or emory paper to get rid of the scratches. Is this a good idea? I'm not trying to get a polished finish, in fact I want just the opposite, I just don't want any scratches.

Like I said the finish under the paint is also too shiny. Nothing like the works finish I see in the store which is much darker and kind've a mottled finish. It's pretty cool. Is that the aluminum oxidation or is it something else? Will my shiny finish finally back off to a more mottled works finish? If not, is there anything I can do to achieve this mottled look?

Btw, I like the paint on version of the Tal strip. The spray on is nasty and dangerous imho. I'm not comfortable with the aerosolized version of the product, notwithstanding wearing a respirator and working outside. Imho, Jasco is WAY worse than this stuff, but it will still burn your skin. While I'm not done stripping (been through 3 passes already), it's eventually going to come through cleanly I hope. Maybe I'll post a picture when done.


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## wormvine (Oct 27, 2005)

Swell Guy said:


> I stripped the paint off my VP-Free cause the paint got all scratched up and I also like the works finish. I hear what others are saying, but the aluminum on my bike under the paint is too shiny and scratched up. I'm thinking about hitting it with some steel wool or emory paper to get rid of the scratches. Is this a good idea? I'm not trying to get a polished finish, in fact I want just the opposite, I just don't want any scratches.
> 
> Like I said the finish under the paint is also too shiny. Nothing like the works finish I see in the store which is much darker and kind've a mottled finish. It's pretty cool. Is that the aluminum oxidation or is it something else? Will my shiny finish finally back off to a more mottled works finish? If not, is there anything I can do to achieve this mottled look?
> 
> Btw, I like the paint on version of the Tal strip. The spray on is nasty and dangerous imho. I'm not comfortable with the aerosolized version of the product, notwithstanding wearing a respirator and working outside. Imho, Jasco is WAY worse than this stuff, but it will still burn your skin. While I'm not done stripping (been through 3 passes already), it's eventually going to come through cleanly I hope. Maybe I'll post a picture when done.


try 000 steel wool. If it takes too long use 00 the go to 000 or 0000 grade. Or wet sand with 400-600 grit sand paper. I wet sanded an aluminum part I made and the wet sanding made the part look like brushed nickel.


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## Streamline.by.design (Apr 27, 2007)

Bike pron:








This is my baby.








Yeah not the best shots to show off the frame but it's something.


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## wyrm (Jan 19, 2004)

How much weight saving does a stripped frame have???


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## JiveFoolSucka (Jan 18, 2006)

Here is my Commencal Supreme Mini DH It took me about 5 cans to get it stripped down. The front triangle had 2 coats of paint plus the clear coat so it was a little bit more intensive.


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## konut (Mar 25, 2006)

shame you can't get nano technology clear coat,would stop the mud sticking,and keep your lovely works finish pristine.


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## GnaR9 (Jul 7, 2007)

wyrm said:


> How much weight saving does a stripped frame have???


About 1/5 to 1/4 of a pound.... seriously


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## OilcanRacer (Jan 4, 2008)

depends on the paint job. i just stripped my new astrix huckster and lost 1.01 puonds. it now weighs 9.1 pounds with the steel springed 4way shock. it will drop more when i get the Ti spring and cane creek shock on.


btw it took five stripping to get all the paint off compared to two/three on most bikes.


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## dhtahoe (Mar 18, 2004)

I work on a bare metal airplane that is 60 years old. It all depends on where you live and how much salt is in the air. I use a chemical called Corrosion X. You just spray it on and wipe it off, and it will NEVER corrode. I treat the inside of all my frames because of the water that tends to remained trapped for a few days. You guy want a real polish job? Come hang with me the week before air show season starts. Doing this thing three times a year make that frame look like a hour project to polish.


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## DrEVS (Apr 18, 2005)

With the spray-on stuff I posted, it only took one 'application' to remove most of my powdercoat. The nooks/crany areas took a few extra sprays and some scrubbing.

That aircraft is badass - what is it?


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## dhtahoe (Mar 18, 2004)

DrEVS said:


> With the spray-on stuff I posted, it only took one 'application' to remove most of my powdercoat. The nooks/crany areas took a few extra sprays and some scrubbing.
> 
> That aircraft is badass - what is it?


That is a P-51 Mustang race modified with a 2300 c.i. Rolls Royce Griffon.


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## Swell Guy (Jan 20, 2005)

dhtahoe said:


> That is a P-51 Mustang race modified with a 2300 c.i. Rolls Royce Griffon.


That's not the only mod. Looks like counter-rotating props too, must track nice and straight. Also, the canopy looks modified kinda like an A model. Was that a D model before it go modded?

I hope to make the air races this year. Maybe I'll do it when I'm up at N*. Is Strega still around? That was a pretty bad-ass warbird, but I've been out of it for awhile.

Since you have so much experience with aluminum, any idea how to get the mottled look of Intense's works finish? Is that just corrosion?


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## dhtahoe (Mar 18, 2004)

Swell Guy said:


> That's not the only mod. Looks like counter-rotating props too, must track nice and straight. Also, the canopy looks modified kinda like an A model. Was that a D model before it go modded?
> 
> I hope to make the air races this year. Maybe I'll do it when I'm up at N*. Is Strega still around? That was a pretty bad-ass warbird, but I've been out of it for awhile.
> 
> Since you have so much experience with aluminum, any idea how to get the mottled look of Intense's works finish? Is that just corrosion?


 I'm pretty sure that look is shot peened. We us it quite a bit in aviation to stress relieve aluminum. It is sort of like bead blasting but uses plastic beads instead of glass. Much finer finish, and clear coat sticks to it very well.

OT: The airplane is what we call a composite build. The main fuse and wing is from a D-model, the tail is from an H-model, and the canopy and aft turtle deck is full custom. The engine and props are from an Avro Shackleton Bomber. The actual engine in it now came out of the Miss Bud Hydroplane Boat. 3500hp!

Tiger and Strega are still around, and still kicking ass when the engine holds together. If you ever want to keep on top of it all just go to www.warbirdaeropress.com. I'm Wild Bill Kelso on that message board.


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## rossp (Mar 7, 2005)

hey DrEVS - I'm working on stripping the main part of the frame now - pretty much done the rear triangle on my M1. Is there anything I need to watch for with the headtube badge? how is it attached and what's the best way to remove it without damaging it - any ideas? 

in case anyone is interested, I'm using a citrus based stripper - I don't think it's quite as effective as some others and the paint removal takes a bit more elbow grease but the fumes are a lot nicer - my basement now has a nice orange scent!!


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## Blaster1200 (Feb 20, 2004)

rossp said:


> hey DrEVS - I'm working on stripping the main part of the frame now - pretty much done the rear triangle on my M1. Is there anything I need to watch for with the headtube badge? how is it attached and what's the best way to remove it without damaging it - any ideas?
> 
> in case anyone is interested, I'm using a citrus based stripper - I don't think it's quite as effective as some others and the paint removal takes a bit more elbow grease but the fumes are a lot nicer - my basement now has a nice orange scent!!


The head badge is held on with double-sided adhesive. You can just pry it off, and apply new double-sided adhesive. On newer frames, you can often just pry it off and simply restick it. Despite its meek appearance, the head badge is fairly stout, so you shouldn't have to worry about damaging it.


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## rossp (Mar 7, 2005)

thanks..will try tomorrow!


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## Joebig585 (Feb 5, 2008)

Think im going to strip my bike too, these look sick.


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## 6milliondollarman (Dec 24, 2004)

Glad this thread was rezzed, great info here. I am seriously considering stripping and polishing my Blur 4x, but the raw look on the bike on this thread is pretty nice... Gonna try that Corrosion X as I'll be traveling to Hawaii & South Pacific islands w/ the bike once in awhile.


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## Newbie Wan Kenobi (Aug 16, 2006)

damnnn ! this thread is really making me wanna strip my 7point, i need to stop reading this thread hahahha.

may be a few more scratches on my frame before decide to completely strip the paint off, ive seen a 7point here in the forum with raw finish and that thing just looks clean as hell.

by the way where can i get a cheap bearing remover ?


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## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

I throughly recommend doing it if you are up for the challenge.. I got my new Nicolai shipped without paint then got it polished.. came up a treat. Been riding it through all sorts of muck and although you cant keep it mirror all the time 5 mins or elbow grease and its as good as new


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## DrEVS (Apr 18, 2005)

Cool. I had a polished Bullit back in the day and it was a real ***** to maintain. Looks awesome when new, but it just didn't last for me.

As posted, the headbadge comes off with a little prying. I sprayed mine flat back before putting it back on. Looks good.

No need to remove the bearings. The stripper doesn't hurt the plastic dust seals. Or, you could remove the seals and repack your bearings at the same time as the stripping.


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## TWISTED (Feb 13, 2004)

*Oxidation?*

Anybody know when my frame will start to oxidize? It's an '02 and was never painted or powdercoated. I'm still waiting.:thumbsup:


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## gwillywish (Jul 1, 2005)

dtufino said:


> Quick Q:
> 
> does it work on pre painted Bikes; example Specialized P1?
> 
> ...


 actually, a friend of mine and i sripped a p1 with that, and i stripped my steelhead pre pink paintjob with that.


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## Newbie Wan Kenobi (Aug 16, 2006)

how many cans of paint remover i need to strip the paint of my ironhorse 7point ? dang it by just looking at the pictures im thinking its gonna take me a week to completely strip the paint off my frame hahaha.

so back to my question , where can i get a cheap bearing puller and where exactly can i get em ? i think im going to take mine out just to be safe.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Newbie Wan Kenobi said:


> how many cans of paint remover i need to strip the paint of my ironhorse 7point ? dang it by just looking at the pictures im thinking its gonna take me a week to completely strip the paint off my frame hahaha.
> 
> so back to my question , where can i get a cheap bearing puller and where exactly can i get em ? i think im going to take mine out just to be safe.


One can let me do two sets of brake calipers, a fork, and a hardtail frame.

I'd just replace the bearings while you're at it.

As for popping the bearings out... screw driver, a few sockets, and a mallet. And just push it out nice and evenly. Or... get a piece of conduit, cut a few slots in the end and splay it out... just like a mini headset remover.


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## Freerydejunky (Sep 21, 2006)

Newbie Wan Kenobi said:


> how many cans of paint remover i need to strip the paint of my ironhorse 7point ? dang it by just looking at the pictures im thinking its gonna take me a week to completely strip the paint off my frame hahaha.
> 
> so back to my question , where can i get a cheap bearing puller and where exactly can i get em ? i think im going to take mine out just to be safe.


IH has a really really tough primer. The paint comes off like a breeze but the gray prime doesnt come off. 
Prettymkiii can vouch for that. Its worth getting IH frames blasted.


----------



## Newbie Wan Kenobi (Aug 16, 2006)

oh crap !

oh men now im really gonna have to re think this coz i dont want to spend more money getting it blasted.

good lookin out though.


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## OilcanRacer (Jan 4, 2008)

make sure you do it on a warm day. temp makes a big difference. yes some paint and primer jobs are better than others.

i doubt that any paint job will not come off with three or four applications. if it takes more you are using the wrong product or not doing it right. some of the nooks and crannys have paint puddled in them so be sure to get enough stripper in those.


i use jasco. a big can cost me 20.00 and i have done four frames and three of the components, still have half a can left.

wear safety glasses, rubber gloves and clothes you don't care about. this stuff will eat those too


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## Swell Guy (Jan 20, 2005)

OilcanRacer said:


> make sure you do it on a warm day. temp makes a big difference. yes some paint and primer jobs are better than others.
> 
> i doubt that any paint job will not come off with three or four applications. if it takes more you are using the wrong product or not doing it right. some of the nooks and crannys have paint puddled in them so be sure to get enough stripper in those.
> 
> ...


I was told Jasco will hurt aluminum. I used an aircraft aluminum stripper product available at the car parts store. Agree with comments about safety and temperature, but it took me about 3-4 coats to completely remove the finish off my VP-Free. Disagree with other poster about bearings, better remove them to make sure. Sometime I'll post pictures of how it came out. I likey! Unfortunately, not sure what to do to get that mottled "works" finish by Intense, that would be cool. I ended up with steel wool and mag polish and polished mine.


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## DrEVS (Apr 18, 2005)

Swell Guy said:


> Disagree with other poster about bearings, better remove them to make sure.


... of what?


----------



## Prettym1k3 (Oct 11, 2005)

Newbie,

I love my stripped 7point frame. But it was a pain. I went through two cans of Jaasco style aerosol paint stripper, and it didn't take everything off. In certain locations, the paint refused to melt, scrape, rub, or wash off. Nothing would take it off. I started with a Dremel, but didn't want to weaken the welds so I ended up sending it out for bead blasting. I got lucky in that I have a friend who hooked me up. And the frame looks absolutely amazing now.

But yes... Paint stripper will take off between 75-80%, but your ability to get the rest off is probably going to require $100-$150 of bead blasting.

*BEFORE:*










*AFTER:*


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## Newbie Wan Kenobi (Aug 16, 2006)

deng mike i want your frame ! hahaha


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## Swell Guy (Jan 20, 2005)

DrEVS said:


> ... of what?


To make sure you don't wreck the bearings. My bearings have a plastic face which keeps them in the race. Some of the paint strippers are not plastic friendly. Moreover, my bearings are held in by Loctite, I'm afraid that the paint stripper may also harm or remove some of the Loctite, and god forbid it gets into the bearings themselves.

Btw, the aluminum stripper I used was Tal Strip II by Mar-Hyde http://www.3m.com/US/auto_marine_aero/Bondo/catalog_itemd7f2.html?itemNbr=319
. It was not vinyl-friendly, it burned right through a set of vinyl gloves I was wearing. I switched to thick dishwashing type gloves, they were much better. I also recommend the brush-on stripper. You can glop it on there where you need it, and it's cheaper than the aerosol. The aerosol stuff scares me even with full respirator, goggles, gloves and bunny-suit.


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## OilcanRacer (Jan 4, 2008)

Swell Guy said:


> I was told Jasco will hurt aluminum. QUOTE]
> 
> well IMO stripper is stripper. just different strengths. the lower the power the more applications. if you watch it closer i do better with mo power. once the paint is loose i stop the action and redo the small nooks/crannys or spot finish what needs doing.
> 
> i have never had any pitting or unsmooth results. in fact most of my stripping i just do a quick once over with steel wool and its done.


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## m-dub (Apr 22, 2005)

Prettym1k3 said:


> Newbie,
> 
> I love my stripped 7point frame. But it was a pain. I went through two cans of Jaasco style aerosol paint stripper, and it didn't take everything off. In certain locations, the paint refused to melt, scrape, rub, or wash off. Nothing would take it off. I started with a Dremel, but didn't want to weaken the welds so I ended up sending it out for bead blasting. I got lucky in that I have a friend who hooked me up. And the frame looks absolutely amazing now.
> 
> ...


Looks like a skidmark on the carpet and drywall on the floor? Did someone blow the corner in the hallway and take out the wall?


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## Prettym1k3 (Oct 11, 2005)

Newbie Wan Kenobi said:


> deng mike i want your frame ! hahaha


Now, what I've been longing for is the raw-metal Avid Codes to match up with the raw-metal lowers of my Totem. :thumbsup:

Wheels I don't care about because I mainly go downhill on this anyway, and I'd kick myself for busting up a $400 wheel. So, WTB dual-duties does it.

But those Avid Codes are frickin' amazing.


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## Prettym1k3 (Oct 11, 2005)

m-dub said:


> Looks like a skidmark on the carpet and drywall on the floor? Did someone blow the corner in the hallway and take out the wall?


Just don't tell my boss that I was drifting in the back storage area of my office. 

It was a rainy day, and my tires were caked with mud. Luckily they're doing massive construction in the back 1/2 of my building, so no one would be the wiser.


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## splatman (Jan 30, 2007)

Prettym1k3 said:
 

> But those Avid Codes are frickin' amazing.


Yep they are, even with the juicy five levers. :thumbsup:


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## Prettym1k3 (Oct 11, 2005)

I'd thought about doin' the Code 5's, just as a cost saving technique. Even at EP prices, the brakes are almost $45 different in price (per brake). But the galvanized levers make me so hoNry...


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## his dudeness (May 9, 2007)

Careful, don't get that boy honry... he'll start humping everything in the room.


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## nagatahawk (Jun 20, 2007)

I love those old war birds. and the sound of the Merlin at full throttle. must've given the germans the shits the hear one of those bad boys.


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## splatman (Jan 30, 2007)

his dudeness said:


> Careful, don't get that boy honry... he'll start humping everything in the room.


Especially if it's red. :lol:


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## harts (Apr 11, 2008)

hey im new here but has anyone stripped any hardtails if so post up some pics im keen on doin my frame but affraid that it will cost a bit to get my lbs to strip my bike down so i can paint stripp it because i no how to take everything off except for the bb nd that stuff! any help is greatly appreciated!


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## The Tod Says What?! (Jan 20, 2007)

Is there a way to strip powder coat other than blasting. Also how do you know if your frame is powder coated( Kona Shred?)


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## tacubaya (Jan 27, 2006)

Powder coat can be removed either with some sort of blasting or sanding or by chemically stripping the paint off.


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## Cabdoctor (Jun 22, 2006)

I just tried Aircraft Stripper from Autozone on an old KHS I have. That stuff is insane. As I was applying the stuff I heard some popping noise. I looked back to see the paint bubling cracking and falling off the frame literally 30 second after applying. Amazing stuff!


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## The Tod Says What?! (Jan 20, 2007)

tacubaya said:


> Powder coat can be removed either with some sort of blasting or sanding or by chemically stripping the paint off.


will the spray on stripper everypone else is using take off powder coat, and is my kona powder coated?


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## harts (Apr 11, 2008)

hey im very keen on doing this to my hardtail but not sure if you can do this by just taking eveything off the frame except for bb can i do this by covering it up with newspaper nd stick it down??


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## harts (Apr 11, 2008)

anyone know if i can do this or will i have to go to my lbs store to take out my headset and bb??


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## DrEVS (Apr 18, 2005)

I think some of you may be over-thinking this project.

Yes, powdercoat comes off pretty easily with the paint stripper. If you were really concerned about it, do a small test on an area that doesn't show (like a dropout).

Yes, the bike should be disassembled. As long as they're not painted, the stripper I posted on the first page will not hurt your bearings or their plastic dust seals, your headset, or your BB. If you want to remove those things, do it because you want more complete removal of paint, not because they're going to be damaged by the stripper. It's really pretty easy to control where the stuff sprays - so if you don't want it to get on your HS or BB, it's not that hard to prevent.


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## the_godfather (Jan 19, 2007)

taking your headset out is simple enough. screwdriver and a hammer works although wouldnt recommend. 
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/TL707C03-Park+Rt-1+Headset+Cup+Remover.aspx
easy enough to make a home made one


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## harts (Apr 11, 2008)

yer ok ill leave my bb in then!!


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## frankfurt (Jul 30, 2007)

Thanks, my bike looks so much better:thumbsup: 
And it wasn't that much of a deal!


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## Cabdoctor (Jun 22, 2006)

Looks sweet! I got my frame stripped to, but now I'm curious how to get the "gritty" raw finish like this Socom. Anyone know how?


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## frankfurt (Jul 30, 2007)

aaaaaaaammmmmmmm that socom is sooooo nice


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## Cabdoctor (Jun 22, 2006)

yeah. I looks like its been through a war.


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## thump (Aug 10, 2007)

Cabdoctor said:


> Looks sweet! I got my frame stripped to, but now I'm curious how to get the "gritty" raw finish like this Socom. Anyone know how?


The trick to the raw finish that intense uses is that they don't do _any_ finish work to the frame after heat treating. The weathered look on the aluminum is from the welding and heat treating processes. Most manufactures give the bike a light sanding before painting which removes this, and once it's gone you can't get it back. Oxidation will help it dull a little over time, but it still won't have the texture variations of an original unfinished frame.


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## DrEVS (Apr 18, 2005)

thump said:


> The weathered look on the aluminum is from the welding and heat treating processes.


Yep...


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## Cabdoctor (Jun 22, 2006)

Yeah here's another shot to drool over. So sick!


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## thump (Aug 10, 2007)

Cabdoctor said:


> Yeah here's another shot to drool over. So sick!


Yeah.. that's at my LBS.. It's even prettier in person. He's got quite a few M6, SS and Socom frames hanging on the walls right now. I try to walk in there as little as possible.


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## Cabdoctor (Jun 22, 2006)

if that was my LBS I have no doubt I would be $3500 poorer right now


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## thump (Aug 10, 2007)

Cabdoctor said:


> if that was my LBS I have no doubt I would be $3500 poorer right now


They already took all my money when a raw Uzzi came in last year.

You should see the works red SS frame the owner has for himself.. crazy nice finish.


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## nagatahawk (Jun 20, 2007)

thump said:


> Yeah.. that's at my LBS.. It's even prettier in person. He's got quite a few M6, SS and Socom frames hanging on the walls right now. I try to walk in there as little as possible.


I getting really sick seeing all the factory team frame finishes. Just as I was really enjoying my frames mat gun metal finish with subdued graphics. Now I'm going to have to strip it down to the metal finish. :madmax:


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## Prettym1k3 (Oct 11, 2005)

splatman said:


> Especially if it's red. :lol:


Come on man...

After all, red things DO make me hoNry. :thumbsup:


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## hab1b (Jan 15, 2007)

what about doing a 08 66? the lowers are Mg is there anything special i would need to do to the lowers after getting the paint off? also what should i use?


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## Heals120 (Apr 16, 2006)

hab1b said:


> what about doing a 08 66? the lowers are Mg is there anything special i would need to do to the lowers after getting the paint off? also what should i use?


Totem's are raw, unless they're the black ones. Mag lowers also and I don't think they do anything special on them, maybe just a spray of clear for fun.


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## thump (Aug 10, 2007)

Heals120 said:


> Totem's are raw, unless they're the black ones. Mag lowers also and I don't think they do anything special on them, maybe just a spray of clear for fun.


Are you sure about that? I have the black myself, but silver ones I've seen look like they're still painted that color.


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## tacubaya (Jan 27, 2006)

Magnesium oxidizes really quicky IIRC, so you would need to buff it/polish it every couple of weeks or spray some sort of clear coat.


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## thump (Aug 10, 2007)

thump said:


> Are you sure about that? I have the black myself, but silver ones I've seen look like they're still painted that color.


I was checking out a silver one on a ride last night. They're definitely painted silver, not raw.


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## liam2051 (Apr 19, 2008)

yeah that stripper looks good, the gel crap is CRAP it took alot of workk to get the paint from mine off


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## edray (Oct 3, 2004)

hey I just did my chameleon frame with the stuff on the first page of this thread and it came it out awesome! I still need to work some into the spaces around the welds and around the BB. Any recommendations for tight spaces?


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## OilcanRacer (Jan 4, 2008)

small nylon tooth brush. you can cut down cheap ones to make custom shapes.

just keep redoing the tight joints till ya get it done. then post a pic of how it turned out


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## edray (Oct 3, 2004)

Used a bit more of the paint stripper on a rag and then used the cap from a pen to scrape it out of the welds etc.. came out sick! it was so easy too. here are some pre stripped pics (crazy paint skin effects - weird) and post pics as well. cant wait to build this up! new forks are exciting...
cheers


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## congarong (Jan 17, 2008)

take some chlorine on a rag mixed with water and wipe it down it will oxidize it and make it dark grey.


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## Prettym1k3 (Oct 11, 2005)

It was time for an update in this raw thread...

And red things still make me honry... hence the wheels.



















But I'm positive that I need these crank arms now...










Oh! And one of these, too...  In red, of course.


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## nagatahawk (Jun 20, 2007)

I have seen CK hubs crack, and my lbs are not in favor of them. Do you have any feed back?


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## big bear (Mar 16, 2008)

I think the CK bbs only work with the Shimano and Race Face external types, not Truvativ.

I've been looking at the works finishes on the Intense bikes and I noticed that some of the impurities are from the welding and such, but in the middle of the tubes there are other blemishes.

If someone wanted to create that same works colour finish( blue, red and black) and not just a trans blue or red, could they just let the aluminum oxidize, then paint it with a trans coloured paint to get the uneven look (or would the oxidation need to sanded off for the paint to stick)?


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## win brooks (Dec 11, 2007)

Could you use gun blue on a bike frame even though its aluminum. Could you galvanize it like this:


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## poppy (Jan 24, 2006)

Karve said:


> I throughly recommend doing it if you are up for the challenge.. I got my new Nicolai shipped without paint then got it polished.. came up a treat. Been riding it through all sorts of muck and although you cant keep it mirror all the time 5 mins or elbow grease and its as good as new


:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: 
This how all Nic's should look, this the best way to show how amazing these frames are
Even the the polish is not needed here 
Beautiful !!


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## adrianm (Nov 18, 2008)

*My Specialized works*

When I saw the original post on page 1, I knew I was going to do the same. I used regular paint stripper and power sprayed off the paint. Some tight arees needed a bit more elbow grease but it was done in two weekends taking my time. It's been done for a few months now and still looks great considering I live 5 kilometers from the coast and I've done a few rides in some messy situations.


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## CaliforniaNicco (Oct 13, 2008)

oh man thats sweeeet....great job!!!


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## adrianm (Nov 18, 2008)

Thanks. I'm still going to put on more decals, but not too much. Also, I must still cut a little off the fork tube. I'm playing around with it until I get the right feel, and I need new pedals. But she rides well and I'm enjoying her a lot!


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## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

edray said:


> Used a bit more of the paint stripper on a rag and then used the cap from a pen to scrape it out of the welds etc.. came out sick! it was so easy too. here are some pre stripped pics (crazy paint skin effects - weird) and post pics as well. cant wait to build this up! new forks are exciting...
> cheers


Those first 2 pics of the paint are F'ed up! :eekster:

Still, the finished stripped frame looks nice! :thumbsup:


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## bxxer rider (Jun 7, 2008)

TWISTED said:


> Anybody know when my frame will start to oxidize? It's an '02 and was never painted or powdercoated. I'm still waiting.:thumbsup:


that has to be my favourite works bike so far!


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## yakuzafreerider (Jul 30, 2006)

here is my work in process....I stripped it down to give it a raw look now I'm polishing it up. This is just the first polishing, may do three or four more times. let me know what ya think.....so far I've only worked on this for uummm 1.5 days...its easy!







[/URL][/IMG]







[/URL][/IMG]
this was before I tore it down







[/URL][/IMG]


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## thecrackerasscracker (Jan 12, 2008)

*Nice*

Hey looks like your getting there :thumbsup: 
I got a polishing kit from home depot for $10 thats works good in a cordless drill Ryobi makes it saved me alot of time 
I wet sanded it used 400 then 800 then 1000 then 1500
I think a good clear coat would be great if not it does take alot of up keep
http://www.imperialrestoration.com/products.php?category=2


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

wow, sweet bikes everyone!


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## yakuzafreerider (Jul 30, 2006)

Thanks...I considered clear coating it when its done. If I do I'll take it to an auto body shop and let him spray it, I don't have a garage and its getting cold outside...kinda why I'm doing this in 2-3 days time.


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## yakuzafreerider (Jul 30, 2006)

thecrackerasscracker said:


> Hey looks like your getting there :thumbsup:
> I got a polishing kit from home depot for $10 thats works good in a cordless drill Ryobi makes it saved me alot of time
> I wet sanded it used 400 then 800 then 1000 then 1500
> I think a good clear coat would be great if not it does take alot of up keep
> http://www.imperialrestoration.com/products.php?category=2


Looks sweet man!!!


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## CaliforniaNicco (Oct 13, 2008)

now im seriously thinking about rawing my 7 point.
so you can't get the grey primer off of IH's frames?
even for 2008?


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## yakuzafreerider (Jul 30, 2006)

well here it is semi-back together. Thinking of stripping and polishing my front wheel and doing the rear in black. Its gonna look so pimpin when finished!







[/URL][/IMG]







[/URL][/IMG]


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## yakuzafreerider (Jul 30, 2006)

CaliforniaNicco said:


> now im seriously thinking about rawing my 7 point.
> so you can't get the grey primer off of IH's frames?
> even for 2008?


aircraft stripper will take anything off, this was so easy the worst part was waiting for my new bearings and bearing tools to arrive to put it back together....


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## tnickols (May 24, 2008)

heres my baby that is due for a strip down, polishing, fork rebuild, bearing replacement and general winter maintenance. I kinda cheated and payed 50 for a local powdercoater to dip it and take off all the paint. took 30 minutes and was out the door.


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## CaliforniaNicco (Oct 13, 2008)

yakuzafreerider said:


> aircraft stripper will take anything off, this was so easy the worst part was waiting for my new bearings and bearing tools to arrive to put it back together....


bearing tool for a 7 point frame? they seem pretty easy to take off?


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## ducktape (May 21, 2007)

When I rawed my Orange it was a real pain in the ass, the paint stripper didn't take the powdercoat off very easily at all, needless to say lots of sanding and scrubbing was involved too. Mind you the same but not quite as bad when I did the STP. They didn't sell the Air Craft stuff at the hardware store though, just Selleys Quick Strip or something similar, I just got whichever seemed like the strongest / easiest to do.


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## Brother Lu (Jan 26, 2009)

yakuzafreerider said:


> well here it is semi-back together. Thinking of stripping and polishing my front wheel and doing the rear in black. Its gonna look so pimpin when finished!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That looks awesome! Did you or will you clear coat it?


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## yakuzafreerider (Jul 30, 2006)

Brother Lu said:


> That looks awesome! Did you or will you clear coat it?


Thanks man...not sure yet, I dont mind polishing it up but still debating powdercoating so I may be holding off the clearcoating....this morning I sanded and polished my riser bar which looks good on it. Gotta go get another seat post cause white is not working with it...I'll post another picture later...


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## 24elsinore (Mar 27, 2006)

A question to everyone who has stripped down their frames: I was inspired by this thread and did it to my chameleon frame. What a ***** amount of work!

What temperatures/application techniques did people use? The m1 at the start of this thread made it look super easy and quick - but I went through 2 spray cans and a gel-like stripper to get first the blue outer coat, then the grey primer off -took probably 6-7 hours all told, working with coarse grade steel wool. 

Was that everyone's experience, and I just irrationally expected it to be a 3 hour project? 
anyway, it looks cool now, but I'm not sure I'd embrace the same project again. My arm still hurts, even after giving my bike a stranger half the time.


----------



## Xaero (Mar 18, 2006)

The paint was a pain to remove. The hardware store didn't have that AirCraft paint stripper thing.. so i got the cheap paint stripper.

i just spent a few minutes a day, scrubbing the paint off while watching tv and getting my skin burnt by the paint stripper. 

i'm still waiting for my LBS to have the 2010 zoke 66.


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## adrianm (Nov 18, 2008)

That looks good! I took about 3 weekends to get mine done. Some paint is more stubborn and needs a little more elbow grease, but I think 3 hours is very optimistic to do the whole frame. But it is worth it! I used almost 2 cans of paint stripper which I painted on and left for a few minutes for it to do its job. Some of the paint I could powerhose off, and for some of it I had to use steelwool. Nothing is as it seems. I think we sometimes try and rush the job and become a little impaptient. Altough it took me 3 weekends, I'm not sorry I did it, and would do it again if I had to. It was a nice project. And your frame looks great!


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## DrEVS (Apr 18, 2005)

24elsinore said:


> Was that everyone's experience, and I just irrationally expected it to be a 3 hour project?


It's been a few years, but the project couldn't have taken me more than 3 hours. You can see in my pics - the powdercoat just peels off like dead skin. The only places where mine took extra effort was in the weld beads and other acute/inaccessible angles. I bet you have some other type of finish that is less susceptible to the paint stripper. Not sure how you'd know that without just going for it.


----------



## adrianm (Nov 18, 2008)

DrEVS said:


> the powdercoat just peels off like dead skin. .


Paint stripper is for stripping paint....thus the name "paint stripper". If you tried to strip powder coating off your bike with paint stripper, this is your problem. There are special chemicals used to do this and paint stripper will not be effective at all. It would be a good idea to find out whether your frame is powder coated or painted before you tackle a job like this.


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## derekr (Mar 21, 2008)

*Nicolai ION ST*

True raw finish


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## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

here was mine. hand polished.










































did the wheels, too.


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## DrEVS (Apr 18, 2005)

adrianm said:


> Paint stripper is for stripping paint....thus the name "paint stripper"


Maybe so... but it worked pretty well on my powdercoated frame; the pics don't lie. Other than friendly anecdotes, what experience do you have with removing bicycle finishes?


----------



## General Hickey (Jan 6, 2008)

What frame is that? That thing looks so bad ass.


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## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

General Hickey said:


> What frame is that? That thing looks so bad ass.


which one?


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## tnickols (May 24, 2008)

due to 18 inches of snow i had a chance to shine it up and i just need to change the cable on the rear shift and it will be already to ride


----------



## chup29 (Nov 28, 2006)

has anyone stripped the paint off fox 40 crowns??? or boxxer crowns for that matter??? i keep seeing blenkinsops old bike with the crowns all silvery as well as the folks over at point 1 racing and wondered if anyone here has done it??? Might be my next project.


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## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

tnickols said:


> due to 18 inches of snow i had a chance to shine it up and i just need to change the cable on the rear shift and it will be already to ride


looks good, too bad it will break. is your shock blown?


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## tnickols (May 24, 2008)

no i just hadnt had a chance to pump it up after my friends thought it would be funny to let air out of everything on my bike, pumped the tires but havent gotten to the fork/rear shock. and i don't expect it to break, im 135 lbs on a bad day


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## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

tnickols said:


> no i just hadnt had a chance to pump it up after my friends thought it would be funny to let air out of everything on my bike, pumped the tires but havent gotten to the fork/rear shock. and i don't expect it to break, im 135 lbs on a bad day


yeah, i'm just over 140, but i expect mine to break every time i ride it. it has nothing to do with weight or abuse, it just breaks and it's a shame.


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## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

first full galvanized frame ever judge wc 2007


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## DrEVS (Apr 18, 2005)

Just a quick update for those who didn't catch my "Part Deux" thread... You can tape off certain sections and get a pretty cool two tone look.


----------



## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

Thinking about doing this to a steel frame. What kind of precautions should I take to prevent rust? Or should I just forget it all together?


----------



## DrEVS (Apr 18, 2005)

Yeah with steel you're going to have to coat it with something to prevent corrosion/rust. You could probably just clearcoat it, if you want to maintain the raw look. Could turn out pretty cool. Maybe let it oxidize a little bit before you clear it to get a unique look? You can always sand it back to raw.


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## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

Man, a steel frame, rawed, allowed to rust just a little to give it that aged look and then clear coated, would look pretty mint.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Damn! A lot of old M1 surfacing! Nice to see the old battle horse floating around again


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## DrEVS (Apr 18, 2005)

Pau11y said:


> Damn! A lot of old M1 surfacing! Nice to see the old battle horse floating around again


The new DH bikes are just too silly looking. That Specialized DH frame gives me a headache just looking at it.


----------



## Moosey (May 18, 2010)

Yea. I love my m1. I've tried a 2005 giant faith and a 2010 glory 0 and would take my m1 over those anyday. I'm lookin into stripping mine to.


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## Steve.E (Apr 10, 2009)

Fantastic raw frames guys, I think the Nikolai is my favourite so far, shiny alu with red accents is HOT.


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## mclark999 (Sep 25, 2014)

24elsinore said:


> A question to everyone who has stripped down their frames: I was inspired by this thread and did it to my chameleon frame. What a ***** amount of work!
> 
> What temperatures/application techniques did people use? The m1 at the start of this thread made it look super easy and quick - but I went through 2 spray cans and a gel-like stripper to get first the blue outer coat, then the grey primer off -took probably 6-7 hours all told, working with coarse grade steel wool.
> 
> ...


I gave up after about 4 hours of work and took mine to have it bead blasted. Got it back the same day and it was beautiful. Cost me $104 dollars for a Yeti SB 95 frame, swing arm and shock link.


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## mclark999 (Sep 25, 2014)

*Yeti SB95 stripped*





















I spent around 4 hours trying to get mine stripped and gave up on the detail work. Had it professionally bead blasted. Paid $104 for the frame, swing arm, and link. Came out beautiful. I'll post some more pictures once I have it back together.


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