# 11-42T conversion: OneUp vs. Wolf Tooth



## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

*11-40T/42T conversion: OneUp vs. Wolf Tooth vs. Hope*

Now we have two similar products to create a cheap 1x conversion with 11-42T cassette for sram and shimano. Full shimano 11-42 drivetrain, dream comes true!

OneUp Components 40T/42T Sprocket
Wolf Tooth Components 42T Giant Cog

There is also the general lee cassette, which replaces 4 cogs and cost twice, let's leave it out now due to cost.

What it looks to me so far comparing the two, the wolf tooth has many advantages:


No spacer, dedicated models for SRAM and Shimano. Should create wider cog-freehub interface. Less freehub wear, better.
Comes with extra long B tension screw in case your derailleur does not have enough clearance from the 42T cog on the original screw.
Known reputation and highly regarded.
Looks like more teeth shaping, should aid shifting.
Price for 42T + 16T: Wolf Tooth is $90+$15=$105, Oneup is $90.
That's what I can tell from the web pages. Looks like Wolf Tooth is a better choice at higher price.

From reports Shimano derailleurs have more problems dealing with 42T cogs than sram. 40T may be a better option for shimano users.

OneUp Rad Cage seems to be the ticket for shimano users and greatly improves shifting performance.

Did you install it and how is it working?

*Post your setup for others to know*

Frame model and year
Derailleur model and cage size
Cassette & chain
How it works

*Updates:*

SunRace CSMX3 10sp cassette, 11-40 and 11-42

$60
Complete cassette with good teeth ratios
Steel cogs on aluminum spider, big cog is aluminum
Less hacky than piecemeal cassette extensions
383g for 11-40
All steel cogs versions coming soon, will weight 414g and 448g 
User reports it shifts fine

Hope 40 T-Rex Adapter

$90
Sram and Shimano specific cogs with no spacers
4 shifting gates (OneUp and WT have 6 gates)
Hope reputation and diehard fan club
No 16T cog

E13 Extended Range 40/42T Cog

$70 (on Jenson), $60 on outsideoutfitters
Sram and Shimano specific cogs with no spacers
Sram only 42T, Shimano 40/42T
6 shifting gates
E13 reputation
No 16T cog

twenty6 40/42T Cog

$95
Sram and Shimano specific cogs with no spacers
5 shifting gates for 40T. 42T I assume its 6.
10 colors
No 16T cog

Absolute Black 40T Cassette Cog

$74
Shimano 40T only
No 16T cog


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## xy9ine (Feb 2, 2005)

wolftooth is domestically manufactured, and they're great people. 

oneup appears to be a canadian co (with offshore manufacturing), but the who's and where's are all shrouded in secrecy for some reason; bit of a faceless company. 

both seem to be solid products, but i gave my $ to wolftooth based on above.


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

Went with Wolftooth. US company with US manufacturing and still a better price. I guess unless you need the versatility (Shimano/SRAM) or green ano...there isn't much reason to go with 1up unless they undercut WT. Even then if the price is close for equal or better product I'm buying US over overseas.

No review since I don't have it yet.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

CrozCountry said:


> What it looks to me so far comparing the two, the wolf tooth has many advantages:
> 
> 
> No spacer, dedicated models for SRAM and Shimano. Should create wider cog-freehub interface. Less freehub wear, better.
> ...


These are my exact thoughts. I'm waiting for the Sram versions to become available and more reviews to pop up before making any decisions, though.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

I like how WT is making the shift ramps to match the cassettes, not just a one fits all. Mine is in the mail as we speak.


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## gbug (Jul 20, 2010)

bdundee said:


> I like how WT is making the shift ramps to match the cassettes, not just a one fits all. Mine is in the mail as we speak.


Placed a pre-order as well.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

OneUp is from so cal...at least thats where my cog shipped from.

The cassette specific cog seems like marketing to me. WT's way to one up OneUp. There has been many reviews on the OU 42t and nobody has mentioned poor shifting.

I can see WT making different cogs because of the different spacing with Shimano and SRAM cassettes so you don't have to use shims like with the OU. Unless there is some kind of comparison where is shows a discernable difference between the Shimano and SRAM specific cogs...its all marketing.


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## cokratex (Jul 28, 2012)

What about absolute black? They have a 40t coming, that would be my choice, because of the size.

I have a WT 32t front ring and it seems like very good quality so if they made a 40t I would buy that.


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## Strafer.2 (Aug 6, 2012)

RS VR6 said:


> OneUp is from so cal...at least thats where my cog shipped from.
> 
> The cassette specific cog seems like marketing to me. WT's way to one up OneUp. There has been many reviews on the OU 42t and nobody has mentioned poor shifting.
> 
> I can see WT making different cogs because of the different spacing with Shimano and SRAM cassettes so you don't have to use shims like with the OU. Unless there is some kind of comparison where is shows a discernable difference between the Shimano and SRAM specific cogs...its all marketing.


Marketing or not, more competition means better and cheaper products for us consumers.


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

Strafer.2 said:


> Marketing or not, more competition means better and cheaper products for us consumers.


+1 on this. Wondering when Shimano or Sram will make a 42T or 40T 10sp. cassette, if ever?


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

blcman said:


> +1 on this. Wondering when Shimano or Sram will make a 42T or 40T 10sp. cassette, if ever?


Why not do a 44-11 10 speed or something like that so you still keep the range and don't need a special freehub or der. Wouldn't it be just like a xx1 but missing one gear in the middle somewhere?


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

RS VR6 said:


> OneUp is from so cal...at least thats where my cog shipped from.
> 
> The cassette specific cog seems like marketing to me. WT's way to one up OneUp. There has been many reviews on the OU 42t and nobody has mentioned poor shifting.
> 
> I can see WT making different cogs because of the different spacing with Shimano and SRAM cassettes so you don't have to use shims like with the OU. Unless there is some kind of comparison where is shows a discernable difference between the Shimano and SRAM specific cogs...its all marketing.


You made a good purchase, you don't need to help justify it by putting down another product or company. I have been guilty of this a time or two.


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## pdqmach26 (Jul 24, 2011)

CrozCountry said:


> Now we have two similar products to create a cheap 1x conversion with 11-42T cassette for sram and shimano. Full shimano 11-42 drivetrain, dream comes true!
> 
> OneUp Components 42T Sprocket
> Wolf Tooth Components 42T Giant Cog
> ...


I can not compare Oneup to WT, as I have a German made 42T. I will say this though, the Wolf Tooth front chainrings are great products. I like them better than the Sram xx1. They run so smooth and quiet. Because of this, when I replace my 42t I will get a Wolf Tooth. They also have really good CS.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

People get way to sensitive about things.

This is a "vs" thread and I'm just giving my opinion.

If WT can show that there is an improvement in shifting by having a manufacturer specific cog...I'll buy one. I do have more than one mountain bike.

Since these 42t cogs are the hot item for the moment...manufacturers are thinking marketing and one upping. How can I market my product that does the same thing, is manufactured with the same equipment out of similar materials to be different?


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

I've got an SLX cassette for a while, while I wait for my XT to show up. 

Gonna swap out the 13t cog. Not 100% sure the cassette will go back together properly... Fingers crossed.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

bdundee said:


> Why not do a 44-11 10 speed or something like that so you still keep the range and don't need a special freehub or der. Wouldn't it be just like a xx1 but missing one gear in the middle somewhere?


I think they would need a special derailleur for that huge gap. Shimano puts a well designed complete package, I find it hard to imagine they would just throw a cassette out there without a fully working kit. for example, even current derailleurs need an extra long B tension screw and thats with 42, imagine with 44. They would probably reengineer the geometry of the derailleur to be closer to the small cog, or use tricky cage like sram. And there is a the question of whether freehubs can handle the torque. Like OneUp says in their blog, too small front ring and heavy riders put enough torque for premature failure of hubs. There is definitely more work to do than just a cassette, but I also think its just a matter of time until shimano puts out a 1x. If I have to guess it will be 1x10 and work with existing cassettes. I can be totally wrong on this guess, don't place bets.


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

bdundee said:


> Why not do a 44-11 10 speed or something like that so you still keep the range and don't need a special freehub or der. Wouldn't it be just like a xx1 but missing one gear in the middle somewhere?


As CozXountry has said there is the issue of the derailleur, but also there is little difference between a 42 and a 44 when you start from a 11x36 cassette. Look at the ratios for a 32 chainring

Cog: 26, 28, 30, 32, *36*, 40, 42, 44
Ratio: 1.230 1.140 1.070 1.000 *0.889* 0.800 0.762 0.727

fhe jump 36 to 42 gets you an almost perfect interval ratio decrement (compare 32 to 36), 44 gains around a 1/3 of an extra gear, 40, like AbsoluteBlack is doing, is also not that great giving a ratio that is less decremental than the gap 32 cog to 36.

A 10 cog also gains relatively little, look at the ratios 10, 11, 13

3.200 2.910 2.460

the decrement between 11 and 13 is good, 11 to 10 is kind of silly because it only gets you a 1/2 of an extra gear (at a cost of more than $1000).

11x42 is huge for most uses, but for a racer or even more spread the way to go is 9x42, like Leonardi Factory is going to offer http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...rdi-racing-9x42-cassette-10-speed-895767.html, 9 really gives you an overdrive gear ratio: 3.560


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

I installed the 41 Ebay cassette. The der. is completely stressed and I would find it hard to believe that the der would have any longevity.
The B tension screw bends really easy because they hit the stop at an angle . Wasn't comfortable with the setup, back to 2x
One of the companies provides a longer B screw. It would be smart to use a tougher material than mild steel


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## padrefan1982 (Mar 2, 2005)

blcman said:


> +1 on this. Wondering when Shimano or Sram will make a 42T or 40T 10sp. cassette, if ever?


+2 (or a 1000) I would think though the only hope would be from Shimano, not SRAM. SRAM's all in with their 1x11 model, and from a company ($) perspective, there is little to no reason to make 42T cassette, as it gives your customers less incentive to upgrade everything and get to 1x11.

I've said it elsewhere... I'd buy more than a few Shimano 10 speed cassettes with a 42t option. Heck, done right, it'd be a great marketing device to appeal to tied-in-the-wool SRAM folks who can't afford the jump to XX1 or XO1.


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

I've ordered the Wolftooth, their stellar narrow/wide rings plus the fact the GC is Shimano specific (no spacer required) and comes with the B tension screw shows they know what they are doing.


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## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

Same.


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## xy9ine (Feb 2, 2005)

RS VR6 said:


> Since these 42t cogs are the hot item for the moment...manufacturers are thinking marketing and one upping. How can I market my product that does the same thing, is manufactured with the same equipment out of similar materials to be different?


yeah, not much to differentiate the products, and, i'm assuming, there will be a relatively short window of opportunity to sell these things before we see some ~affordable production wide range cassettes by the major players. i can't imagine shimano won't be stepping up sooner than later (granted, it IS shimano, and while they make some really great stuff, they do have their epic head shaking moments).

anyways; cool to see all the crafty little guys filling the void. chain guide & front derailleur free full range drivetrain upgrades for ~$150? brilliant.


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## B-RAY (Jul 15, 2004)

I have had an eBay 41t cassette for over a year with a X9 derailleur with no problems at all. I am running a 2X10 with a 40,27 with a 41t on the rear, I took off the 13t.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

The ebay 41T is another similar product that is probably a direct comparison. From looking at it:


Significantly less machining
3 times heavier
No shifting ramps
41T is less than ideal for downshifting from the next 36T cog (36/42T make perfect 6 gates)
Narrower interface with the cassette
Nicely cut freehub teeth
But it costs less than half. Fair trade-off.


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

View attachment 867239


Got mine today! Mounted up with no issues, super nice they included a longer B screw. Quality is the normal from Wolf Tooth, meaning HIGH. Looks really nice and is well finished. Details on the teeth look great. Has the feel of something that will outlast a few cassettes.

I've got a 34T chainring and XT med cage and needed to add 2 links of chain. Shifts up and down pretty much like stock. No hesitation, skipping, or added noise.

Not sure how to get the pic rotated, but you get the idea


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

*More real world reviews*



jselwyn said:


> View attachment 867239
> 
> 
> Got mine today! Mounted up with no issues, super nice they included a longer B screw. Quality is the normal from Wolf Tooth, meaning HIGH. Looks really nice and is well finished. Details on the teeth look great. Has the feel of something that will outlast a few cassettes.
> ...


I really appreciate all the discussion about ratios and theoretical shifting but if anyone is using these massive rear cogs to convert to 1 x 10 please give your real world experience, review and set-up details. Does it suck or is it great and why? Thanks for including your set-up and picture. More like this please.


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

My Wolf Tooth GC will be here Thursday. Going to mod an SLX cassette to fit and will try to report on my experience with this paired to Race Face NW 30T over the weekend.

I already plan to space the 30T inward a couple mm as the chainline currently looks much better in high gears rather than the 36t ring on there now. Hopefully that will help increase the life of both the 30t up front and the 42t in back as I spend a lot of my riding time granny gearing to the top in order to ride down (typical WNC/Pisgah riding).


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

I'm still on the fence about the whole setup. I installed my Wolftooth yesterday and even though I haven't ridden it yet I'm not real impressed with it. Not the design of the cog that is beautiful and the shifting is fine but the tension on the der. is just crazy. Also i'm concerned about the lack of chain wrap I'm getting on the smaller cogs. I don't know maybe I'm being over cautious but just seems like not a great idea.


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

Anyone got an online source for ordering extra long b-screws? Sram and Shimano?


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

bdundee said:


> I'm still on the fence about the whole setup. I installed my Wolftooth yesterday and even though I haven't ridden it yet I'm not real impressed with it. Not the design of the cog that is beautiful and the shifting is fine but the tension on the der. is just crazy. Also i'm concerned about the lack of chain wrap I'm getting on the smaller cogs. I don't know maybe I'm being over cautious but just seems like not a great idea.


My thoughts and fears exactly, can anyone else comment?


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## StevePodraza (Jun 29, 2006)

got a 34T wolf red ring up front (killer!) and the wolf 42T rear cog, tried all combos with the different rings in back and the best was pulling out the 17T

the 11-13-15-19-21-24-28-32-36-42 worked the best from what I tried, with an XT cassette the 19 is attached you can not remove so going from 15 to the 19 was not an issue at all. Cant wait to get it on the trail! pictures to come!


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

What rear derailleur are you using please?


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## StevePodraza (Jun 29, 2006)

oh sorry guys. XTR shadow plus, Liteville 301


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

My xt med cage didn't work that great so I threw on a xtr shadow plus long and it's better, still don't like it and thinking about ordering x01. A longer chain might have helped the xt but there was room yet.


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## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

rfxc said:


> Anyone got an online source for ordering extra long b-screws? Sram and Shimano?


Your local hardware store. A nice stainless bolt will run you about 75 cents.


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## StevePodraza (Jun 29, 2006)

I have the med with 120 link chain, works perfect


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

It rides ok.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hi All,
Thanks for the comments and feedback.* The only thing I can really add (because each customer will in the end have to make their own decision) is that the timing of the shifting ramps is extremely critical and SRAM and Shimano are much different.

While the "perfect shift" (you know, the one you don't even hear or feel) will always only happen with some level of probability, the timing of the shift ramps can change this from a very low percentage to a very high percentage.* There is a lot of interesting science in shifting and we sure had fun optimizing the GC!!

Cheers,
Wolf Tooth Brendan


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

rfxc said:


> Anyone got an online source for ordering extra long b-screws? Sram and Shimano?


Got mine here: TorontoCycles, Titanium Bolts, Alloy Bolts,Titanium Fasteners, A2z

I picked up a M4x25mm Ti screw along with some other Ti bits.



bdundee said:


> I'm still on the fence about the whole setup. I installed my Wolftooth yesterday and even though I haven't ridden it yet I'm not real impressed with it. Not the design of the cog that is beautiful and the shifting is fine but the tension on the der. is just crazy. Also i'm concerned about the lack of chain wrap I'm getting on the smaller cogs. I don't know maybe I'm being over cautious but just seems like not a great idea.


The shifting does suffer in the three smaller cogs. The performance is diminished to an extent.

Here is what I got from riding my OneUp,

My setup is: SLX shifter, XT Shadow Plus RD, SRAM 1030 11-36 cassette, Raceface 30T NW chainring, SLX crank, 73mm BB with a spacer on the drive side.

-The shifting in the 11, 13, 15 isn't that great. Its not as smooth with the b-tension cranked so far in. Shifting above the 17 is fine. Shift from the 36 to 42 is smooth.
-On occasion shifting from the 19 to the 15...the chain will miss the 15 and drop onto the 13...then pop back up. (maybe my adjustment is off)
-I'm shifting the rear alot more than with the double.
-There is a noticeable cadence jump (for me) from the 15 to 19. On flats, it feels like my cadence is too high in the 19 or too low in the 15. I guess its something you can get used to.
-if your looking for pure performance or racing where you're really shifting alot in the smaller cogs...you may want to stick with your double or run XX/X01

For me...its fine...something new to try out. The slow shifting in the smaller cogs are fine for me. Its worth it to get rid of the front derailleur.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

WolfTooth said:


> Hi All,
> Thanks for the comments and feedback.* The only thing I can really add (because each customer will in the end have to make their own decision) is that the timing of the shifting ramps is extremely critical and SRAM and Shimano are much different.
> 
> While the "perfect shift" (you know, the one you don't even hear or feel) will always only happen with some level of probability, the timing of the shift ramps can change this from a very low percentage to a very high percentage.* There is a lot of interesting science in shifting and we sure had fun optimizing the GC!!
> ...


hi thanks for posting up. So can you give it to us straight what this will do with the rear derailleur


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

oops...:madman:


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

Yody said:


> hi thanks for posting up. So can you give it to us straight what this will do with the rear derailleur


I doubt anyone knows what it will do long term... It's more tension.. So it will either expedite the spring failing or do nothing. Are there really other options?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Yody - We have not seen and do not expect an impact to rear derailleur life. Tightening the b-screw does change the geometry of the shift but the cage spring itself should not be stressed significantly more than with a 36t (noting that you have to add a few links when installing the GC).


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

On mine the longer b-screw started to eat away at the stop and was starting to bypass it. It is officially binned.


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

bdundee said:


> On mine the longer b-screw started to eat away at the stop and was starting to bypass it. It is officially binned.


Ruh Roh


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

that blows. looks like i might have saved me some $


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

fishwrinkle said:


> that blows. looks like i might have saved me some $


Remember this is just some idiot on the interwweb, your results might be fine. Maybe a different der, or turn the screw around backwards so there is more contact area? I'm sure they did their homework and it works, just not for me.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Looks like we need new derailleur hangers 
Or maybe a new axle bracket for the derailleur, there are less derailleurs than frames


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

bdundee said:


> Remember this is just some idiot on the interwweb, your results might be fine. Maybe a different der, or turn the screw around backwards so there is more contact area? I'm sure they did their homework and it works, just not for me.


Dude, aren't you the "idiot" who just posted that?


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## temporoad (Jul 27, 2006)

Perfect colour match with the Raceface wide/narrow and the Oneup 42t green. This is going on my Krampus I had 2 x 10 on it moving to 1 x 10. My Oneup shipped from Delta BC.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

Yody said:


> Dude, aren't you the "idiot" who just posted that?


Yup and it's a good rule to live by, do you really know the person that is giving the advice and how do you know said person is not just some idiot who messed it up? Just saying wait for more reviews, I don't want to be the one to crush everyone's dreams.

For sale one black Wolftooth Giant Cog hardly used.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

bdundee said:


> Yup and it's a good rule to live by, do you really know the person that is giving the advice and how do you know said person is not just some idiot who messed it up? Just saying wait for more reviews, I don't want to be the one to crush everyone's dreams.
> 
> For sale one black Wolftooth Giant Cog hardly used.


PM me a price, I'll take it


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

WolfTooth said:


> @Yody - We have not seen and do not expect an impact to rear derailleur life. Tightening the b-screw does change the geometry of the shift but the cage spring itself should not be stressed significantly more than with a 36t (noting that you have to add a few links when installing the GC).





bdundee said:


> On mine the longer b-screw started to eat away at the stop and was starting to bypass it. It is officially binned.


WolfTooth, any ideas?


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## ziscwg (May 18, 2007)

CrozCountry said:


> Looks like we need new derailleur hangers
> Or maybe a new axle bracket for the derailleur, there are less derailleurs than frames


There's only 400,000,000 types of deraileur hangers out there.


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

We feel it is necessary to chime in on a few details.

It has been noted in this forum that OneUp chose to offer one universally mounted ring. While it would have been easier for us to design 2 separate sprockets, we worked hard to optimize a design that would work equally well for both Sram and Shimano. It took over 6 months of development time to perfect our dual shift features and clocking. We feel the OneUp design gives riders the greatest flexibility to mix and match drivetrains on future builds without having to replace the 42T. Check out reviews from MTBR's Brian Mullin, Bikerumor, Pinkbike and many others.

Regarding B-screw. Whether you choose our ring or a competitor’s, some derailleurs (typically Shimano) require more b-screw than is available in the stock setup. We recommend approaching this in two stages. First remove the b-screw washer and reinstall the screw – This should be enough for most setups. If additional tension is still needed we recommend reversing the b-screw and using the removed washer in its original position. We strongly recommend against installing a longer b-screw. If that length of screw is required it is far better to have the additional area of the screw head to avoid damage to the screw or stop. In addition, if the derailleur is hit in such a way as to bend the b-screw, removal of an unreversed screw will cause damage to your RD.

We hope this helps


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

OneUp said:


> Regarding B-screw. Whether you choose our ring or a competitor's, some derailleurs (typically Shimano) require more b-screw than is available in the stock setup. We recommend approaching this in two stages. First remove the b-screw washer and reinstall the screw - This should be enough for most setups. If additional tension is still needed we recommend reversing the b-screw and using the removed washer in its original position. We strongly recommend against installing a longer b-screw. If that length of screw is required it is far better to have the additional area of the screw head to avoid damage to the screw or stop. In addition, if the derailleur is hit in such a way as to bend the b-screw, removal of an unreversed screw will cause damage to your RD.
> 
> We hope this helps


Solid advise!!


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

OneUp said:


> We feel it is necessary to chime in on a few details.
> 
> It has been noted in this forum that OneUp chose to offer one universally mounted ring. While it would have been easier for us to design 2 separate sprockets, we worked hard to optimize a design that would work equally well for both Sram and Shimano. It took over 6 months of development time to perfect our dual shift features and clocking. We feel the OneUp design gives riders the greatest flexibility to mix and match drivetrains on future builds without having to replace the 42T. Check out reviews from MTBR's Brian Mullin, Bikerumor, Pinkbike and many others.
> 
> ...


Awesome info, thank you for participating!

Can you make any comments on the lack of chain wrap on the lower cogs and how that will affect chain life? Thats the other thing I'm concerned about


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey Yody,
We have been working with bdundee to figure out the problem on his setup, but haven't yet. All I can tell you is that we haven't seen this in any of our testing (all around the US on lots of different bike setups). I am also not aware of any problems with the 1 up either and it requires the same b-screw setting as ours. There are more of those in the field right now with lots of reviews too.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

WolfTooth said:


> Hey Yody,
> We have been working with bdundee to figure out the problem on his setup, but haven't yet. All I can tell you is that we haven't seen this in any of our testing (all around the US on lots of different bike setups). I am also not aware of any problems with the 1 up either and it requires the same b-screw setting as ours. There are more of those in the field right now with lots of reviews too.


Just drop shipped mine to Yody!! I'm sure my problem was just a freak thing.


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Yody said:


> Can you make any comments on the lack of chain wrap on the lower cogs and how that will affect chain life? Thats the other thing I'm concerned about


Hey Yody - I'll do my best. I would be lying if I told you we had extensive studies on chain wear across systems.

When the b-screw is setup for a standard 11-36 it drives the 11T by 5 or 6 teeth (on my particular setup ~75% on 5 and 25% on 6). When you set it up for a 42T the RD rotates back so you do lose some wrap. On my setup, this causes it to drive on 5 teeth all the time (the 5th tooth disengages at the same time as a new tooth engages). So as you pointed out the chain wrap will be less and there will be some theoretical increase in wear to the lower cogs and therefore the chain.

That said, I believe this increase would be marginal. The high output time spent in the 11T and 13T, for me at least, is low. This marginal decrease in the number of load carrying teeth is also offset by the ability to run a larger front chainring (lower chain tension for a given pedal input force).

I hope this is helpful.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

The wear factor doesn't bother me but the lack of chain wrap or it could be the change in derailleur angle seemed to make shifting a lot less crisp, but I'm a little finicky and it might not bother a normal cat.

Just as a note the 36-42 shifted great just the others left wanting.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Took a couple pics of the stop on the b-tension screw

On my Pivot in a "normal" position.


On my Spesh with the 42T. The end of the screw is halfway off the stop.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

i can see why bdundee says his got boogered up.


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## chick0 (Apr 4, 2009)

Got my OneUp fitted early last week. Setup and tuning was very simple. Had plenty of screw on my Sram XX Mech. Only done 3 rides, and since all chain contact points are new, its all still bedding in, but im finding that all shifts are good ( not in the same league as they were with my previous XX cassette mind you).

OneUp 42t Green - XT 11-36 cassette - Raceface Narrow Wide 32t Green - KMC X10 SL Gold 10 Speed - KCNC Ultra Jockeys 11t Gold - XX rear Mech. 
View attachment 867602


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## demondan (Jul 25, 2008)

Yeah a drop derailleur hanger is a great idea! And yes Shimano will come out with a 40 tooth 10 speed cassette.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

ziscwg said:


> There's only 400,000,000 types of deraileur hangers out there.


Derailleurs you have
SLX/XT/XTR, X7/X9/XO/XX, you can get more derailleur hangers just from one brand 

Having said that, I think a derailleur hanger is a better solution.
Or wait for shimano to come out with a full working kit, which is hopefully not that far in the future and will be a simple upgrade. Unlike sram, shimano trickle down of technology is quick, I would not be surprised if we see XT and SLX right from the start (especially when they play catch-up). And then sram will immediately have to respond with X7/X9. One can dream


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## goto11 (Jun 12, 2009)

I find the whole discussion about gearing to be fascinating, but let's be honest folks, it's not rocket science. 

The 3x drivetrain was the result of decades of refinement of gear ratios. It's pretty simple to figure out your gear ratios with a simple spreadsheet to see how much range is lost when you take away one or two chainrings. The weight difference is trivial, because the chainrings being removed are about the same weight as the sprockets being added.

But humans are always suckers for something new, just for the sake of being new, and yes, it does seem to solve the issue of dropped chains, but this can also be addressed by simply letting up on the cranks while shifting, in addition to minimizing chain drops by setting up your chain length, b-tension and front derailleur correctly.

We had 12-36 six-speed freewheels and cassettes with big ol' 46 tooth rings in front (and 48 or 50+ tooth rings for XC) back in the day before seven, then eight, then nine, and now ten and eleven speed drivetrains. Have I seen a lot of improvement in the way bikes shift, going from the original 6-speed indexed Deore XT to every Shimano/Suntour/SRAM combination of gears the bike industry has offered? Not really. Did smaller chainrings up front bring the weight down a lot? Not really, but the whole microdrive (i.e. sub 12-tooth and proportionally smaller chainring) fad sure did cause drivetrains to wear out quicker (fewer teeth equals more wear per tooth).

SRAM and Shimano are trying to sell product. MTBR is trying to drive traffic. Bike magazines are trying to increase readership. It is all a big circle jerk. Shimano could make a seven, eight or nine speed 11-40 cassettes that worked with existing components and they would sell like crazy, but it would cannibalize their drivetrain sales. Why sell a cassette when they can persuade you to buy new shifters, derailleurs and cranks to go with it? And a new freehub body too.

This is, for the greater part, marketing hype and offers little that cannot be found in a properly-tuned 3x6 drivetrain, circa 1987. I do not deny there is a small amount of engineering refinement going on here, but the key word is small. The bigger part is marketing.

This whole trend of abolishing front chainrings is our day's Biopace. Engineering and logic may prevail, but marketing is a force to be reckoned with. Do yourself a favor and study up on gear ratios so you know what you are giving up before you dump those front chainrings.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

I don't know about that. Lots of people were going 1X before sram came up with official 1X. I look at 1X as a market pull from consumers, and not as a push from the big brands. They responded to demand. 2X, same thing. People replaced the 3X big ring with a bash in masses well before the big brands came up with official 2X drivetrains. Personally I never bought an official 2X drivetrain because the 3X + bash worked equally as well. I think its cool that companies monitor the market and come up with out-of-the-box solutions to what people are already home brewing.
But you can be sure that when they come up with something new they will push it hard, its a business after all.

One of the best things in my new build is 1x10 with standard 11-36 cog. I was also running 1x with a guide on my DJ for years (which also moonlights as a backup mountain bike, so it needs gears). It beats any 2x or 3x if you can live with the range. I cannot see myself ever again doing a bike build with a front derailleur. Modern bikes are already complicated, KISS 

Thats just my view, but I think I am not the only one that likes to remove stuff from the bike. On the trail, less is more.


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## spankone (Aug 31, 2011)

I'm running a 34t front ring and a 11-38 rear. I've fitted the 38T sprocket from mtbtools on ebay. Works a treat, I figured its only 4 teeth bigger than my 11-34 cassette so would give me less compatabilty issues. It's not as slick looking as one up, wolf tooth, or the up coming hope version. But the concept certainly works and I would love to tryout the other versions to see the difference in shifting. 

Regarding chain wear. I doubt it'll be significant enough to notice. Especiallly if you keep you drive chain well maintain. 1x10 systems genrally wear better than 2x10 or 3x10 because your not cross chaining. 

I do like the fact that going 1x10 is so afordable.  just ditch the front gear system, buy one front chain ring and add a large rear sprocket if yoy want the extra teeth for climbing.


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## lawman1991 (Jun 4, 2010)

goto11 said:


> I find the whole discussion about gearing to be fascinating, but let's be honest folks, it's not rocket science.
> 
> The 3x drivetrain was the result of decades of refinement of gear ratios. It's pretty simple to figure out your gear ratios with a simple spreadsheet to see how much range is lost when you take away one or two chainrings. The weight difference is trivial, because the chainrings being removed are about the same weight as the sprockets being added.
> 
> ...


People have been using 1x drivetrains on trail bikes for years before XX1 came out, I've used a single ring up front since 2011, and I know others who've used it even longer than that. This is very much driven by the market, not the manufacturers trying to force something on us. If anything Shimano's seemingly reluctance to offer a dedicated 1x drivetrain at this point is trying to force us that 1x isn't the answer. 1x drivetrains have so many benefits, not just in simplified drivetrains but in frame and suspension designs. Granted, they won't be for everyone, but so many people could benefit from them if they just opened their eyes to something new and not just dismiss it as marketing B/S. Having run 1x for the last 3 years, even with an 11-36t cassette, I'll never go back to a double or triple, just too many compromises imo. The sooner more wide-range 1x options become available the better.

If 3x6 is good for you, you're welcome to it!


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## JeffcoHo (Sep 2, 2010)

The 42 tooth is great but you also need the 10 that xx1 gives you. I have a 32 up front on my xx1 and I spun out on The Whole Enchilada. I really suggest setting up your 10 speed 36x11-42.

Question. Any one use a Shimano Zee FR rear derailleur with a 42 tooth? Cage to short?


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

JeffcoHo said:


> Question. Any one use a Shimano Zee FR rear derailleur with a 42 tooth? Cage to short?


Was wondering the same thing. I saw "mid cage" recommended, but will the ZEE FR work at all, or just less than ideal?

Also thanks to all for the fascinating and diverse perspectives!


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

lawman1991 said:


> People have been using 1x drivetrains on trail bikes for years before XX1 came out, I've used a single ring up front since 2011, and I know others who've used it even longer than that. This is very much driven by the market, not the manufacturers trying to force something on us. If anything Shimano's seemingly reluctance to offer a dedicated 1x drivetrain at this point is trying to force us that 1x isn't the answer. 1x drivetrains have so many benefits, not just in simplified drivetrains but in frame and suspension designs. Granted, they won't be for everyone, but so many people could benefit from them if they just opened their eyes to something new and not just dismiss it as marketing B/S. Having run 1x for the last 3 years, even with an 11-36t cassette, I'll never go back to a double or triple, just too many compromises imo. The sooner more wide-range 1x options become available the better.
> 
> If 3x6 is good for you, you're welcome to it!


I'll second this. When 10 speed came out, lots of us complained about needing more gear spread not more gears. 1x was already somewhat common since it resolved chain drop issues and clearance issues on FS bikes. I almost always shift 2 gears at a time, so bigger cog spacing would be a welcomed change. XX1 would give me the same spread as my 2x9 with one fewer gear ratios. Win! I'll agree 2x10 was change for the sake of change, but 1x11 is what I've really been asking for. The question now is if Shimano will realize their hard line stance of offering roady like gearing doesn't work for MTB.

If they port over their 11 speed free hub with even further compromised flange spacing (and it looks like they are), then I'm done with them. Especially if their answer to XX1 is that along with electronically shifted 2x. Bleh. I can't think of anything I'd want less.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

I don't mind a 2x on my summer bike but 1x really shines in the winter. Front der. really catch the crap and freeze up and no worky anymore. Maybe 1x was created to sell more crap but that crap works and I like buying bike crap.


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## gopherhockey (Jun 3, 2004)

Went with the Wolf Tooth. Went on quick and easy, definitely needed the longer bolt that came with it. If you shortened your chain, you may need to add links or get a new one. Mine was too short to accommodate the 42t.

Early on in winter when my legs weren't ready I could REALLY have used this thing. Now that I've adjusted I haven't *needed* it so much, but when we get a fresh snow and it gets deep out there its dang nice to have. My knees are very thankful.

Great group of local guys (to me) that also ride (as in first through the finishing line).

Wish they came in orange to match the 907 Whiteout.


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## cobym2 (Apr 11, 2005)

For me the narrow wide chainring 1x10 together with the clutch type derailleur was the best upgrade for last year for me. Maybe it started off as marketing, but ditching the FD, chainguide, getting lighter, and not hearing the clangor of chain hitting chainstay and derailleur cage is soooooooooooo sweet. Hype? I think not! 

The 42t cog, I think, will perfect the system by allowing you to regain the lost gear ratios by going 1x10. I got 2 Wolftooth (Wolfteeth?) and 2 OneUps on order, to go on SRAM and XT drivetrains. Direct comparison soon.


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

I preordered so I got the oneup for $85 including shipping, have yet to install it though as I need a r.der with a larger capacity.

HOPE is also coming out with a cog:
Hope: New Rims, Stems and More - Core Bike 2014 - Pinkbike

View attachment 867642


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

My installation of wtc 42t didn't require changing the stock B screw
Cranked it up a few and fine it tune it by backing down a bit . Shifts like a champ. This is on med xtr shadow plus RD


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Vegard said:


> HOPE is also coming out with a cog:
> View attachment 867642


Nice. This has definitely reached critical mass. Even if Shimano refuses to release an XX1 competitor, these products should expedite SRAM's release of X.9/X.7 1x11.


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

Agreed, total win-win for consumers. Affordable conversion to wide ratio cassette for 1x10 and cheaper 1x11 options for new bikes and people that want to spend the coin for the group.


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## juansevo (Nov 3, 2005)

Huh? 

People, and me, have been using 1x setups for years. I've looked up the gear ratios and done the math. A 42t will be nice for climbs but I don't "need" a 10t. I found a 36x11 is rather snappy and you actually produce more power "spinning" than mashing. My 3 months training with a powermeter taught me that. But again, another silly set of numbers.

And also, as I've done my math on this as well, how does removing 2 chainings/with hardware/front der/left shifter/plus applicable cable and housing equal the weight of a sub 80 gram 42t aluminum cog? My apologizes if you're using something I have not heard about that weighs significantly more.


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## mathoss (Mar 30, 2004)

Damn" I want to see this bike!



temporoad said:


> Perfect colour match with the Raceface wide/narrow and the Oneup 42t green. This is going on my Krampus I had 2 x 10 on it moving to 1 x 10. My Oneup shipped from Delta BC.


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## goto11 (Jun 12, 2009)

A 44 x 11 gives you a 4:1 gear ratio. If you take away the big ring up front, then you aren't getting that back. The best you can hope for is a 40 x 10, but no one runs singles or doubles with 40-tooth rings. What's the weight savings? I estimate around 350g (3/4 lb.). 

It's a personal choice, but go into it with eyes open. The tall gears *are not* gotten back by adding a big cog out back.

Many of the trails I ride can be either accessed by 25 minutes of driving or a bike-only shortcut that takes 20 minutes, due to the 4:1 gear ratio that I use. I may do the math of wheel circumference and crank revolutions per mile to illustrate what the difference is. I need my big rings for the riding I do. It's worth the extra weight for me.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Wolftooth products are solid, fair priced, and are not unobtainium.


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator

Yes, you are giving up a 4:1 ratio, and on a mountain bike, no one needs a 4:1 ratio. Look at all the pro racers using XX1, even DH/enduro racers-- is the lack of a 4:1 holding them back? Nope.

I spent much of last year racing on a 32t 1x10, 11-36 cogs in back. I frequently ride 30-45mins of roads to trailheads from my house. at 90rpm, I'm going almost 22mph in the 32-11 on my 29er. I finished top 5-10% out of 300-600 racers at multiple 50 milers. I never felt "geared out", on the (very few) downhill gravel sections where I could coast to 25mph I needed the break anyway. On the really flat, fast races I'll throw on a 34t chainring, but thats more to use the middle of my cassette rather than from being limited by a top gear of 32x11.

For the vast vast majority of people, do you really need to push a gear that allows you go 30mph with a tailwind? Didn't think so. If you're riding scenarios frequently demand that, you need a CX or road bike.

I was honestly nervous that I wouldn't have enough tall/fats gears on the 32t 1x10-- I hesitated to convert. Now that I have, I'm ashamed I didn't do it sooner.



goto11 said:


> A 44 x 11 gives you a 4:1 gear ratio. If you take away the big ring up front, then you aren't getting that back. The best you can hope for is a 40 x 10, but no one runs singles or doubles with 40-tooth rings. What's the weight savings? I estimate around 350g (3/4 lb.).
> 
> It's a personal choice, but go into it with eyes open. The tall gears *are not* gotten back by adding a big cog out back.
> 
> Many of the trails I ride can be either accessed by 25 minutes of driving or a bike-only shortcut that takes 20 minutes, due to the 4:1 gear ratio that I use. I may do the math of wheel circumference and crank revolutions per mile to illustrate what the difference is. I need my big rings for the riding I do. It's worth the extra weight for me.


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## spankone (Aug 31, 2011)

FM said:


> Was wondering the same thing. I saw "mid cage" recommended, but will the ZEE FR work at all, or just less than ideal?
> 
> Also thanks to all for the fascinating and diverse perspectives!


I would think you'll need a
Medium as that's what I would use on a 42t front ring and 34t rear sprocket.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

Really? Naysayer with a history lesson. Same nonsense applied to no 29er, no 650b, no better drive train, no disc brakes, no dropper post no,no,no. I still have my circa 1980 mountain bike I ride to the grocery store to get milk but on the trails I'm sticking with my modern FS with all the bells and whistles. The question still remains is an inexpensive 1x drive train great or does it suck. Please share with us if you actually rode the new set-up and liked it or hated it.


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## goto11 (Jun 12, 2009)

rfxc said:


> Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator
> 
> Yes, you are giving up a 4:1 ratio, and on a mountain bike, no one needs a 4:1 ratio. Look at all the pro racers using XX1, even DH/enduro racers-- is the lack of a 4:1 holding them back? Nope.
> 
> ...


Good information. Thank you.

My main bike is still a 3x9 26er, so I would be spinning more than a 29er with the same gears, and I like to avoid the 11-tooth when possible, since it's noticeably less efficient than the toothier cogs. Having ridden bikes since the friction shifter days (my first store-bought MTB was a 2 x 6, but I built a few n x 5 franken-MTBs before that), I'm admittedly very slow to adapt to all this new-fangled stuff. I remember clearly when a triple ring crankset was the upgrade, much like 1 x 11 is now.

My original 1987 3x6 Deore XT drivetrain has thousands of miles on it and would still be a viable option if they made decent parts for it anymore. Maybe I'm being a nostalgic luddite about how well everything worked back then. It took me ten years to upgrade my main bike from a hardtail with thumb shifters to a FS bike with triggers. That doesn't mean I ignore or avoid new technology. I just keep the old stuff maintained and running until the parts are no longer serviceable. I'm happy with the 3x9 drivetrain on my FS bike and the 3x8 drivetrains on my hardtails. They work well for me, and I have spare parts to keep them going.

Will I ever go with a single or double up front? Maybe, but not likely with a 26er. I can see how the bigger wheels mitigate the effects of a shorter top gear, so it may make more sense with my next bike, which will probably not be another 26er. Thanks to all of you guys, the prices will come down and it may one day make good economic sense for me. But for the time being, I'm not paying more to get less, when what I've got works great. As for weight savings, that's nice and all, but my FS bike is already pretty light and my racing days are behind me, so it's not a big factor for me.


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## ziscwg (May 18, 2007)

juansevo said:


> Huh?
> 
> *People, and me, have been using 1x setups for years.* I've looked up the gear ratios and done the math. A 42t will be nice for climbs but I don't "need" a 10t. I found a 36x11 is rather snappy and you actually produce more power "spinning" than mashing. My 3 months training with a powermeter taught me that. But again, another silly set of numbers.
> 
> And also, as I've done my math on this as well, how does removing 2 chainings/with hardware/front der/left shifter/plus applicable cable and housing equal the weight of a sub 80 gram 42t aluminum cog? My apologizes if you're using something I have not heard about that weighs significantly more.


NO WAY! I thought SRAM created something new............. (Sarcasm)

I think why people like the 1x11 (or x10) is the larger rear cog that allows us mere mortals to climb those steeper pitches.

Didn't you have to use a chain guide without the wide/narrow xx set up?


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Any reason why this wouldn't work with 1x9? Lets say a spacer is used to space out the 42t cog just right for a 1x9, in theory it should work.
What you say?


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## spankone (Aug 31, 2011)

the-one1 said:


> Any reason why this wouldn't work with 1x9? Lets say a spacer is used to space out the 42t cog just right for a 1x9, in theory it should work.
> What you say?


It works. My buddy has followed my lead and removed the pins out of his cassette and removed the middle cog. He does have a large 7t gap between cogs but it still shifts. The alternative is to remove the first gear but he found he was spinning out.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

^Thickness of cogs?

Jump from 34 to 42 would be big?

Work? Perhaps. Optimal? Probably not.


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## goto11 (Jun 12, 2009)

the-one1 said:


> Any reason why this wouldn't work with 1x9? Lets say a spacer is used to space out the 42t cog just right for a 1x9, in theory it should work.
> What you say?


I've been wondering the same thing myself. I'd also like to know if it will work with an 8-speed cassette, turning it into 9-speed. My monstercross bike has 8-speed bar-con shifters with the "extra click" that will shift into a ninth gear if present (much like old 7-speed thumb shifters would work with 8-speed cassettes). I feel ancient.


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## temporoad (Jul 27, 2006)

da peach said:


> ^Thickness of cogs?
> 
> Jump from 34 to 42 would be big?
> 
> Work? Perhaps. Optimal? Probably not.


do to the spacer supports toward the top of the 42t the chain will not sit on the 34 clog properly.


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

spankone said:


> It works. My buddy has followed my lead and removed the pins out of his cassette and removed the middle cog. He does have a large 7t gap between cogs but it still shifts. The alternative is to remove the first gear but he found he was spinning out.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Would you mind posting up your setup?



da peach said:


> ^Thickness of cogs?
> 
> Jump from 34 to 42 would be big?
> 
> Work? Perhaps. Optimal? Probably not.


34t-42t is quit a big jump, I was thinking of going with another option of a 40-42t.



temporoad said:


> do to the spacer supports toward the top of the 42t the chain will not sit on the 34 clog properly.


I was thinking of using a spacer to take up that space where the support is.


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## spankone (Aug 31, 2011)

the-one1 said:


> Would you mind posting up your setup?
> 
> 34t-42t is quit a big jump, I was thinking of going with another option of a 40-42t.
> 
> I was thinking of using a spacer to take up that space where the support is.


He talks about his 1x9 sp set up on here






My set up is a 1x10 xt crank xt shadow plus rear mech, slx shifter and rear cassette race face narrow wide.

I'm running a 34t front and a 11-38 rear cassette with the 17t cog removed. The slx cassette is pinned so I had to drill the pins out.





































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rsolti13 (Apr 23, 2012)

Got my One Up....installation was a breeze, shifting is so smooth, no noticeable difference from original 1070 cassette. Quite surprised actually

View attachment 867746


View attachment 867744


View attachment 867745


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

rsolti13 said:


> Got my One Up....installation was a breeze, shifting is so smooth, no noticeable difference from original 1070 cassette. Quite surprised actually


So you modified a 1070 cassette? Thanks in advance.


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## mmanuel09 (Nov 26, 2008)

Deliver status on my one up says delivered. Yipeee... Are you guys adding links to your chain?


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

JeffcoHo said:


> The 42 tooth is great but you also need the 10 that xx1 gives you. I have a 32 up front on my xx1 and I spun out on The Whole Enchilada. I really suggest setting up your 10 speed 36x11-42.


No you do not, the difference from 11 to 10 is too small to make a difference. 10 is an overdrive only in respect to 12, that is what the SRAM cassette comes with, not in respect to the standard 11. If you really want an extra gear in respect to 11 (but why?) you have to go to 9, like Leonardi Racing is doing.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

canfield has had the 9t microdrive for a little while too, although you need to buy their hub. my ideal would be 36x9-42 as i use all my cassette a lot. its a pipe dream for now though as i have to blow up the new wheel i just built.


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

rfxc said:


> Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator
> 
> Yes, you are giving up a 4:1 ratio, and on a mountain bike, no one needs a 4:1 ratio. Look at all the pro racers using XX1, even DH/enduro racers-- is the lack of a 4:1 holding them back? Nope.
> 
> ...


I don't know. I'm going to try 1x10 on my Nickel. I think I'll go 30x11-42. Even with 30 I'm going to suffer on the climbs. But, I'm also worried about spinning out going down. I don't have big strong legs, but I routinely use 42x13 and sometimes 11 going down fire roads. I like to keep my legs spinning. And at 30, or even if I went 32x11 I'll be coasting going down some hills. If I need to get some power in the pedals to get me out of trouble, I'll be spun out and won't be able to do that. That worries me a little. But then I'm thinking, at my age maybe I need to start cruising the down hills and saving my strength for the climbs. I wish there were 10 or 11 speed setups that gave me the range of my 42, 32, 22 x 11-36 triple setup. I'd rather have the gear range with larger gaps between gears. I guess we can't have our cake and eat it too, at least not yet.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

You pedal out 36x9 on a mountain bike on the trail? Who the hell are you people and where are you riding?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

For me to spin out my legs on the 30x11...I'm going about 32mph (according to my Garmin)...and that lasted for seconds.


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

WHALENARD said:


> You pedal out 36x9 on a mountain bike on the trail? Who the hell are you people and where are you riding?


42x11



RS VR6 said:


> For me to spin out my legs on the 30x11...I'm going about 32mph (according to my Garmin)...and that lasted for seconds.


That's not that fast going down a long fire road.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

I'm going 36 up front with the 42x11 out back. I currently have 34 front, 36x11 back and I out pedal that all the time. Its not always about full on sprinting but having enough resistance against the pedals when descending and cranking bursts of momentum


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## pharmaboy (Nov 11, 2005)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> 42x11
> 
> That's not that fast going down a long fire road.


Not fast on gravel? My 32 * 10 tops out at 35mph (58kmh) at 80 cadence - knowing how long it takes to stop on gravel at that speed means it's a speed I don't want to explore - that's why I got shimano brakes


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## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

WHALENARD said:


> You pedal out 36x9 on a mountain bike on the trail? Who the hell are you people and where are you riding?


I pose the same question to anyone that uses more than a 28T on their cassette?!?


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## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

pharmaboy said:


> Not fast on gravel? My 32 * 10 tops out at 35mph (58kmh) at 80 cadence - knowing how long it takes to stop on gravel at that speed means it's a speed I don't want to explore - that's why I got shimano brakes


That's interesting because it's super-hard to get a 39x11 up to 35mph spun out (140+rpm) on the road


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## temporoad (Jul 27, 2006)

da peach said:


> ^Thickness of cogs?
> 
> Jump from 34 to 42 would be big?
> 
> Work? Perhaps. Optimal? Probably not.


Here is a picture of a 34t up against the 42t, you can see that the well of the 34t chain sprocket is below the green support on the 42t. The chain would never sit properly on the 34t.


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## rsolti13 (Apr 23, 2012)

JMac47 said:


> So you modified a 1070 cassette? Thanks in advance.


Yes, used the SRAM 1070, took out the 17 as they said. I was planning on replacing the 15 with a 16 so the spread isn't so far off, but honestly on the trail I really didn't notice the jump. As mentioned, I can't believe how smooth the shifting is. Both me and a buddy (I have X9 Type 2 Rear Derailleur and he has XTR Shadow Plus) run them on a 1070 and I swear, you can not tell you are shifting from SRAM to OneUp going from 36-42, it is that smooth.


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

temporoad said:


> Here is a picture of a 34t up against the 42t, you can see that the well of the 34t chain sprocket is below the green support on the 42t. The chain would never sit properly on the 34t.


A-ha. I figured some such interference had to exist. Thanks for the pic.


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## JoshP (Mar 20, 2007)

rsolti13 said:


> Yes, used the SRAM 1070, took out the 17 as they said. I was planning on replacing the 15 with a 16 so the spread isn't so far off, but honestly on the trail I really didn't notice the jump. As mentioned, I can't believe how smooth the shifting is. Both me and a buddy (I have X9 Type 2 Rear Derailleur and he has XTR Shadow Plus) run them on a 1070 and I swear, you can not tell you are shifting from SRAM to OneUp going from 36-42, it is that smooth.


Man, I am so stoked reading this. My 42 tooth OneUp arrived yesterday, going to bolt it up tonight. Running a MRP AMG taco with a top guide, SLX cranks, and a 30 tooth Race Face N/W up front for now (will probably go to a 32 once my legs are in riding shape for the summer) on a ReignX. Currently have a SLX shadow+ rear mech, but also have a X9 type 2 I could put on, been wondering if one might work better than the other. Sounds like I should be good either way though.


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

WHALENARD said:


> You pedal out 36x9 on a mountain bike on the trail? Who the hell are you people and where are you riding?





pharmaboy said:


> Not fast on gravel? My 32 * 10 tops out at 35mph (58kmh) at 80 cadence - knowing how long it takes to stop on gravel at that speed means it's a speed I don't want to explore - that's why I got shimano brakes


There's no gravel here. Just dry dirt.


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## rsolti13 (Apr 23, 2012)

I would say should be good either way, but the XTR needed the spacer/washer removed from the b tension screw, the X9 just needed a couple twists, no modification. Oh yeah, the top wheel (don't know what its called) on the X9 rd also sat about 2mm lower than the XTR which did make it feel ever so slightly smoother shifting from the 36 to 42. For that reason I would probably go SRAM if the SLX is similar to the XTR



JoshP said:


> Man, I am so stoked reading this. My 42 tooth OneUp arrived yesterday, going to bolt it up tonight. Running a MRP AMG taco with a top guide, SLX cranks, and a 30 tooth Race Face N/W up front for now (will probably go to a 32 once my legs are in riding shape for the summer) on a ReignX. Currently have a SLX shadow+ rear mech, but also have a X9 type 2 I could put on, been wondering if one might work better than the other. Sounds like I should be good either way though.


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## endoguru (Oct 28, 2011)

I have the OneUp and it works great, installed easily. I have an XTR medium cage clutch derailleur and I did not need a longer B tension screw. Also, I had an 11-32 cassette laying around so I replaced the 15 tooth with a 16 tooth so the gaps between gears are more consistent than just eliminating the 17 tooth. The problem I am having is eliminating the front 2x chainring and going to a 1x with a 32 tooth chainring. The chain is very slightly touching the spider arms on the XT crank. Does anyone know if this is a common problem? If so, do you grind the spider arms, or do you have to buy a different crank set to convert to 1x10?


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

You can bevel the spider arms yourself, or probably slip a mm or two of spacer between crank and chain ring. Make sure your bolts are long enough if you go that route.



endoguru said:


> I have the OneUp and it works great, installed easily. I have an XTR medium cage clutch derailleur and I did not need a longer B tension screw. Also, I had an 11-32 cassette laying around so I replaced the 15 tooth with a 16 tooth so the gaps between gears are more consistent than just eliminating the 17 tooth. The problem I am having is eliminating the front 2x chainring and going to a 1x with a 32 tooth chainring. The chain is very slightly touching the spider arms on the XT crank. Does anyone know if this is a common problem? If so, do you grind the spider arms, or do you have to buy a different crank set to convert to 1x10?


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## endoguru (Oct 28, 2011)

jn35646 said:


> You can bevel the spider arms yourself, or probably slip a mm or two of spacer between crank and chain ring. Make sure your bolts are long enough if you go that route.


Thanks. good info. I am going to try shimming because it seems as though moving the chainring inward would help with better chain alignment in the 42T cog.


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

endoguru said:


> Thanks. good info. I am going to try shimming because it seems as though moving the chainring inward would help with better chain alignment in the 42T cog.


I have a Race Face N/W (has shims built in) and mine could still benefit from the chainline moving inwards. I'm going to add both a 1mm washer and a 1mm lock washer to each of my bolts to see if that makes a better line. No idea if that is a good or bad idea but gotta experiment sometimes.


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## pharmaboy (Nov 11, 2005)

Shayne said:


> That's interesting because it's super-hard to get a 39x11 up to 35mph spun out (140+rpm) on the road


Well, assuming you run a 29er ( doesn't evrybody) - one or both of us have the speed/cadence wrong. I use gps speed and I run a Q factor of 156, so haven't had the cadence sensor on this particular bike, but downhill I can stay with the traffic in the 50kmh zones at comfortable cadence.

Edit.
On 29" wheels with 2.3 tyres,I thought I'd stick it all into the Sheldon brown calculator

39/11 @ 120rpm is 36.6MPH
32/10 @ 120rpm is 33.1MPH

If you are on a 26", you're estimates are pretty much dead on. Obviously my brains ability to estimate my cadence on previous experience is flawed - I actually feel quite comfortable at that cadence


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## endoguru (Oct 28, 2011)

jn35646 said:


> I have a Race Face N/W (has shims built in) and mine could still benefit from the chainline moving inwards. I'm going to add both a 1mm washer and a 1mm lock washer to each of my bolts to see if that makes a better line. No idea if that is a good or bad idea but gotta experiment sometimes.


I agree. I don't see how better chain alignment can be anything but good, so I'm willing to take the chance. Where do find the 1mm washers?


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## mayonays (Oct 22, 2010)

endoguru said:


> I agree. I don't see how better chain alignment can be anything but good, so I'm willing to take the chance. Where do find the 1mm washers?


Check your LBS otherwise Universal Cycles has them.


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## JoshP (Mar 20, 2007)

rsolti13 said:


> I would say should be good either way, but the XTR needed the spacer/washer removed from the b tension screw, the X9 just needed a couple twists, no modification. Oh yeah, the top wheel (don't know what its called) on the X9 rd also sat about 2mm lower than the XTR which did make it feel ever so slightly smoother shifting from the 36 to 42. For that reason I would probably go SRAM if the SLX is similar to the XTR


Thanks for the info rsolti13.


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

endoguru said:


> I agree. I don't see how better chain alignment can be anything but good, so I'm willing to take the chance. Where do find the 1mm washers?


Got mine at ACE Hardware in town. Way cheaper. They are just washers. Carry a chainring bolt with you. I think they were 8mm washers


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

rsolti13 said:


> Yes, used the SRAM 1070, took out the 17 as they said. I was planning on replacing the 15 with a 16 so the spread isn't so far off, but honestly on the trail I really didn't notice the jump. As mentioned, I can't believe how smooth the shifting is. Both me and a buddy (I have X9 Type 2 Rear Derailleur and he has XTR Shadow Plus) run them on a 1070 and I swear, you can not tell you are shifting from SRAM to OneUp going from 36-42, it is that smooth.


Good to know and thank you for your experience info. I've been trying to nurse a budget 1x9.5 drivetrain with a Shadow + XT 10 spd rr der and 9spd SRAM shifter/9spd cassette/9spd chain with not much success. So since derailleur is brand new when funds become available, I'll go the full route and get a 10 spd shifter and cassette and add on cog along with a n/w ring and get it al dialed.


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## mpw29er (Nov 13, 2011)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

fishwrinkle said:


> canfield has had the 9t microdrive for a little while too, although you need to buy their hub. my ideal would be 36x9-42 as i use all my cassette a lot. its a pipe dream for now though as i have to blow up the new wheel i just built.


Here you go: http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...rdi-racing-9x42-cassette-10-speed-895767.html


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

My WT GC showed up yesterday. Looks gooood. Gonna be patient and wait for my XT cassette rather than butcher my SLX. I don't have a drill press...

Really looking forward to getting it installed and my FD removed.


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

Having a hard time dialing it in. With B tension cranked enough to climb the 42 I don't have enough chain wrap on the 11... driveway test of mashing as in hitting a punchy climb I get some chain slip on the 11t.

It's a used and butchered SLX cassette though. Going to try my other cassette which is a bit newer before sinking cash into an XT. 

Shifting between 36 and 42 is butter though. Wolf Tooth GC.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

jn35646 said:


> I have a Race Face N/W (has shims built in) and mine could still benefit from the chainline moving inwards. I'm going to add both a 1mm washer and a 1mm lock washer to each of my bolts to see if that makes a better line. No idea if that is a good or bad idea but gotta experiment sometimes.


Sounds like you have the 30t Race Face then.

This question goes to you and endoguru as well then, are you guys converting a 2x or 3x crankset for your 1x setup? Consensus has been best to use a 3x as a 2x usually produces a chainline more offset to the center of cassette causing some cross chain rub in a lot of cases.


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

JMac47 said:


> Sounds like you have the 30t Race Face then.
> 
> This question goes to you and endoguru as well then, are you guys converting a 2x or 3x crankset for your 1x setup? Consensus has been best to use a 3x as a 2x usually produces a chainline more offset to the center of cassette causing some cross chain rub in a lot of cases.


It's a double. I have a triple I could try. I went with and without spacers and doesn't make much difference. Took the spacers off. Can't really hear it on the bike.. Just in the stand.

More concerned with dialing in my janky slx frankencassette at this point.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

You guys on xc bikes trying to save weight and running this big cog with a 30T or smaller front ring are killing me. IF you really need gearing that high (which you do on a XC bike) just stick with a double or even should I say a triple. I don't understand how you would spin a XC bike on flats with a 30T front and 11 rear. That just sucks. Its perfect for an All Mountain bike where you just need the gearing to get up the hill so you can go back down. (fat bikes are included in the exception as well)


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

da peach said:


> My WT GC showed up yesterday. Looks gooood. Gonna be patient and wait for my XT cassette rather than butcher my SLX. I don't have a drill press...
> 
> Really looking forward to getting it installed and my FD removed.


You don't really need a drill press, just find a way to grind the end of the rivets down on one end. I used a dremmel on the 11t side.


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

bdundee said:


> You don't really need a drill press, just find a way to grind the end of the rivets down on one end. I used a dremmel on the 11t side.


Same here, when I installed my FRM 36 on a 9 speed XT cassette I dremeled the rivets. Took a while but it is fairly straight forward.


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## endoguru (Oct 28, 2011)

Yody said:


> You guys on xc bikes trying to save weight and running this big cog with a 30T or smaller front ring are killing me. IF you really need gearing that high (which you do on a XC bike) just stick with a double or even should I say a triple. I don't understand how you would spin a XC bike on flats with a 30T front and 11 rear. That just sucks. Its perfect for an All Mountain bike where you just need the gearing to get up the hill so you can go back down. (fat bikes are included in the exception as well)


I'm not a cross country guy and it has nothing to do with saving weight. I ride technical trails and go down as fast as possible (after climbing my way to the top). Losing the front derailleur is all good for trail riding. Rode the bike today and couldn't be happier. I can see the day coming where front derailleurs will be in the museum along with cantilever brakes. I had one of the very first Rockshox forks and most people were say "What a joke. Who wants all that weight and complication?". It's funny that now we are saying "What a joke. Who wants to lose the worst part of the off road bicycle and make it less complicated?". ME!


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

Davide said:


> Same here, when I installed my FRM 36 on a 9 speed XT cassette I dremeled the rivets. Took a while but it is fairly straight forward.


Heh, well I don't have a dremmel either....and I'm on kid duty this weekend, so I can wait another few days.


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

jn35646 said:


> Having a hard time dialing it in. With B tension cranked enough to climb the 42 I don't have enough chain wrap on the 11... driveway test of mashing as in hitting a punchy climb I get some chain slip on the 11t.
> 
> It's a used and butchered SLX cassette though. Going to try my other cassette which is a bit newer before sinking cash into an XT.
> 
> Shifting between 36 and 42 is butter though. Wolf Tooth GC.


Turns out the cassette I butchered first was an HG-62/Deore and not really SLX. I spent at least an hour with it back and forth between the stand and the driveway and couldn't get it to shift to my liking. When I realized this wasn't actually an SLX cassette I grabbed the other that is the real thing, popped the rivets out, slapped it together and it works pretty great.

Just back from a ride with plenty of climbing and rough descending. Using 30T N/W chainring and XT clutch derailleur. No slapping, good shifting and plenty of range for me. I don't hammer down gravel roads and if I'm spinning out 30x11 I may as well coast...then again, I'm not a racer.

Only small thing to report negatively is there was occasionally some hesitation shifting up from 15 to 19. That is to say, out of probably 30+ times I hit that combination 2 or 3 of them I needed to give the shifter a tiny nudge to get it to ride up to the bigger cog.

I have an Ultegra cassette with a 16T in the parts bin...wonder if that will drop in?


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

endoguru said:


> I'm not a cross country guy and it has nothing to do with saving weight. I ride technical trails and go down as fast as possible (after climbing my way to the top). Losing the front derailleur is all good for trail riding. Rode the bike today and couldn't be happier. I can see the day coming where front derailleurs will be in the museum along with cantilever brakes. I had one of the very first Rockshox forks and most people were say "What a joke. Who wants all that weight and complication?". It's funny that now we are saying "What a joke. Who wants to lose the worst part of the off road bicycle and make it less complicated?". ME!


Are you running a 30t front ring with that 42t rear?

I know all about single rings on AM bikes, I've been running one since they invented 10speed. I just think its not the business for XC bikes, and if you have to put a 30tooth or smaller front ring with such a huge rear cog, you'd be better off with a double or triple, or get stronger. Unless all you do is climb up steep climbs and never pedal on flats or downhill. That would be a weird unique scenario, or that person doesn't know what they're missing. Coasting everywhere is pretty boring in my book.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Yody said:


> You guys on xc bikes trying to save weight and running this big cog with a 30T or smaller front ring are killing me. IF you really need gearing that high (which you do on a XC bike) just stick with a double or even should I say a triple. I don't understand how you would spin a XC bike on flats with a 30T front and 11 rear. That just sucks. Its perfect for an All Mountain bike where you just need the gearing to get up the hill so you can go back down. (fat bikes are included in the exception as well)


Its not mainly about weight, weight is a side benefit. Speaking of XC, 1X drivetrains have enough podiums already.

It would be fun to see one of the top shimano sponsored racers use a converted cassette 1X setup


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Yeah those guys podiuming aren't on 28T front rings, are they?


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## team_wee (Mar 26, 2006)

It depends where you live. Here on the BC west coast the climbs are steep and long and the decent are really steep. A lot of trails we consider XC most places they think it's a downhill run. Check out the Nimby 50 for a killer XC course where it would be a good gear range.


Yody said:


> Are you running a 30t front ring with that 42t rear?
> 
> I know all about single rings on AM bikes, I've been running one since they invented 10speed. I just think its not the business for XC bikes, and if you have to put a 30tooth or smaller front ring with such a huge rear cog, you'd be better off with a double or triple, or get stronger. Unless all you do is climb up steep climbs and never pedal on flats or downhill. That would be a weird unique scenario, or that person doesn't know what they're missing. Coasting everywhere is pretty boring in my book.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Not really talking about racing, just for general use. A true racer is going to tailor his bike to different courses


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Yody said:


> Yeah those guys podiuming aren't on 28T front rings, are they?


Nope. Thats one of the advantages of wide range 1X setups. You can tailor the same drive train for different conditions based on the front ring.


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## Golf_Chick (Aug 22, 2013)

Are people running this setup doing so with direct mount rear derailleurs or standard hanger jobbies?


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

Golf_Chick said:


> Are people running this setup doing so with direct mount rear derailleurs or standard hanger jobbies?


Standard hanger


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## endoguru (Oct 28, 2011)

Yody said:


> Are you running a 30t front ring with that 42t rear?
> 
> I know all about single rings on AM bikes, I've been running one since they invented 10speed. I just think its not the business for XC bikes, and if you have to put a 30tooth or smaller front ring with such a huge rear cog, you'd be better off with a double or triple, or get stronger. Unless all you do is climb up steep climbs and never pedal on flats or downhill. That would be a weird unique scenario, or that person doesn't know what they're missing. Coasting everywhere is pretty boring in my book.


jI am running a 32T front. I ride a trailbike not a XC bike. Maybe I am too old school, but I still enjoy earning my downs by climbing, not shuttling. Not that an occasional shuttle is a bad thing, as in getting shuttle to the top of The Whole Enchilada and getting 20+ miles of downhill.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Like I said, people with that gearing who are forced to Coast everywhere don't know what they're missing. Saying that 32t isn't too far off. It's the guys with 30 and smaller that are not getting proper bike setup


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

Yody said:


> Like I said, people with that gearing who are forced to Coast everywhere don't know what they're missing. Saying that 32t isn't too far off. It's the guys with 30 and smaller that are not getting proper bike setup


You do realize the majority of people that do this CONVERSION are coming from a double or triple and with that from a wider gear range. They know exactly what they are "missing." Let folks decide what they want to ride. It's not like every person that tries a wide range 1x10 is building from scratch and it's their first time on a bike. Hell, most people willing to try this out are probably gear nerd enough to know precisely what they will gain and give up.

It's one thing to offer suggestions and advice. It's another to draw a line at 30T and say you're doing it all wrong people.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

I totally disagree that the majority of people know exactly what they're missing. Its like the guys before who ditched the big ring for a double and would say "Screw the big ring I never used it anyway"......???? What! I loved the big ring and there's a reason they were put on bikes for years and years. 
Hey more power to you, if you just climb up hills and then just go coasting around everywhere else. I suppose my point should be to open peoples minds up to the idea of actually keeping a cadence on flat terrain and pedaling for momentum on downhills. If you put a 28T front single ring, you will never have the chance to figure this out.

For those people who DO know exactly what they are doing and actually ride in some kind of weird terrains where they need such a setup thats totally cool, they are not who I'm trying to reach. I'm trying to reach the other hundreds of riders who might be reading and give them another perspective to think about before they *neuter *their bike.

The main attraction to me is the fact that you can run a single ring and still be able to maintain a decent sized front ring. For years single ring would be tough on your knees and make climbing long steep grades a real pain and kept many people from running singles (because nobody wanted to run a 30 or smaller front ring) Now with the 42T you can keep a decent sized front ring, or for me an even bigger front ring. So I can have my cake and eat it too. I'm on a 30Ilb All Mountain bike and climb plenty, currently have a 34T front with the 10 speed 34T rear cassette. I used to have a 36T up front but it was just too painful on steep climbs. Now with this 42T I can go back to 36T up front and still have it easier up the climbs. To me the 42T is NOT about throwing some tiny front ring on and being able to finally "step it up" to a single ring setup. If you are willing to compromise that much, what was holding you back before? Shoot with that theory might as well of just put a 24T up front with the old ten speed and 34T cassette. Whats wrong with that then? Screw it, lets all just put 22T front chain rings on! Throw a ***** leg party while we're at it!


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## jvp108 (Nov 22, 2005)

And another thing...You all riding front suspension, disc brakes, and droppers are missing out. I dont ride that stuff....sucks for you. Alright back to the bike shop to spread awesomeness to dumbass customers.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

I'm installing my setup today, I'll take a few pics and post em up later


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## juansevo (Nov 3, 2005)

I used a chainguide on one bike just because but I don't think I ever really "needed" a chain guide. My current bike I have a rotor singlespeed chain ring (so not designed for shifting) with an XO clutch rear der. I ran Shimano See for a year though no problem and will be transfered to my Singular Rooster when we're ready to import these puppies. I really like Shimano Zee, it's the secret gem of the 1x10 world. Cheap, works great, and really not all that heavy.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Yody said:


> I totally disagree that the majority of people know exactly what they're missing. Its like the guys before who ditched the big ring for a double and would say "Screw the big ring I never used it anyway"......???? What! I loved the big ring and there's a reason they were put on bikes for years and years.
> Hey more power to you, if you just climb up hills and then just go coasting around everywhere else. I suppose my point should be to open peoples minds up to the idea of actually keeping a cadence on flat terrain and pedaling for momentum on downhills. If you put a 28T front single ring, you will never have the chance to figure this out.
> 
> For those people who DO know exactly what they are doing and actually ride in some kind of weird terrains where they need such a setup thats totally cool, they are not who I'm trying to reach. I'm trying to reach the other hundreds of riders who might be reading and give them another perspective to think about before they *neuter *their bike.
> ...


Well covered Yody. You're either one tough SOB with a 36/42t granny gear on your AM bike or the trails aren't that tough where you ride!  jk.

I fall into this thinking too. I single speed 75% of my rides so probably abit biased on the 1x setup tho. That being said, contemplating putting my triple back on my hardtail to get a little more range to/from the longer, mixed surfaced/climbing rides I do. Giving the xc fs bike a go with a 1x 32-11/34 cassette setup to see how that covers the regular shorter jam session rides. Will have to weigh the benefits of the costs going 2x10 or getting a bigger n/w front ring and an add on rr cog before hand though.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

I'm running a 34T Front, 34T rear. You might think I'm tough but really I just am not that fast uphill. My cadence is too slow, I've just learned to grind out climbs. My weekend rides are typically 20miles and about 3500 feet climbing. You know big Annadel loops, Demo Loops, China Camp (front and back), Tamarnacho plus solstice, etc, etc. This is why I'm excited about the 42T. I can go up to a 36T up front and still have it easier Uphill than what I'm running right now. If I want to feel fast climbing, I grab my 22ilb scott scale 26r and go PR all the uphills. That has a conventional Triple on it with a 32T 9 speed cassette. A double would be cool on that bike, but I loooove Big ring smashing. A XC bike is supposed to cover all sorts of terrain with extended miles, so the triple keeps me well covered. And since its a XC bike/hardtail it bounces and skips so much anyway I don't care about chain slap with the triple. And its already only 22 pounds so I don't care about the extra weight either.

And thanks for somewhat agreeing with my perspective, its a rare thing around this site, lol


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## mikericci (Oct 29, 2013)

Is this the new thing - bragging about the front ring size? Another benefit of the 1x conversion.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Keep in mind that there is a difference between 29 and 26 inch wheels. With 29 you need a front ring about 10% smaller to get the same drive ratio. So if you are using 34 ring on a 26 bike, others will use 30 or 31 ring on a 29 bike and get the same result.


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## pastajet (May 26, 2006)

MTBR.com has been running a OneUp 10-42 x 32T (and 34T) for a little over 2 months and it's still working just fine, no shift issues, even under heavy loads and adverse conditions, like the nasty snow and gritty mud conditions we have had lately where I live in Colorado Springs. Waiting on Wolf to send us their Cog for a thorough test.

Setup - Ibis Ripley 29er, converted Shimano XTR 11-36 cassette, a medium caged SRAM X0 Type 2 rear derailleur and an E*thirteen TRS+ crankset with 32 and 34T chainrings. I located an old Shimano 16t cog in my parts bin, so I swapped out the 15t with the 16t to create a more even range in gearing: 11-13-16-19-21-24-28-32-36-42.

Refer to Just In: OneUp Components 42 Cog for 1×10 Drivetrains | Mountain Bike Review


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

mikericci said:


> Is this the new thing - bragging about the front ring size? Another benefit of the 1x conversion.


Bragging? Don't know about that. I think its the smart way to balance having all your ride basis covered. I liked having a 22/36-38 x 11/34t 2x setup, why not have same range capabilities with a 1x?


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## Whip Chop! (Apr 27, 2007)

I just read this article:

First Look: Installation of the 42T OneUp Components Sprocket | Enduro Mountainbike Magazine

Looks like they've been able to run the conversion with a short cage rear mech, even though One UP and Wolf both do not recommend it. I currently have a short cage (Sram X9) and don't necessarily want the expense to upgrade. Anyone tried this with a short cage?


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

i too was wondering about he short cage. i bought a zee not too long ago and would hate to buy another rd


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Has anybody run the b-tension screw backwards? My screw right now sits halfway off the stop. I concerned that it'll start to chew through the stop. I looked at it today and I'm seeing small bits a metal shavings (very very small amount).

I took this a few ago. I have several rides on my 42T...and so far I really like it. I'm just afraid that it'll keep chewing through the stop.

The RD is a Shimano XT Shadow Plus. Does SRAM RD's do this?


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

Black is now open for SRAM as of 7:30pm today!!!!


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

Triaxtremec said:


> Black is now open for SRAM as of 7:30pm today!!!!


*GOT MINE YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:*


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## MudBike (Oct 22, 2005)

RS VR6 said:


> Has anybody run the b-tension screw backwards? My screw right now sits halfway off the stop. I concerned that it'll start to chew through the stop. I looked at it today and I'm seeing small bits a metal shavings (very very small amount).
> 
> I took this a few ago. I have several rides on my 42T...and so far I really like it. I'm just afraid that it'll keep chewing through the stop.
> 
> The RD is a Shimano XT Shadow Plus. Does SRAM RD's do this?


Running a XTR der. I turned the screw around to have more surface area. Works great.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

MudBike said:


> I turned the screw around to have more surface area. Works great.


Bingo!


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

Does running a 26t in the front make me the winner or looser 

I might give a 28t a try.


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

Try the 30 t. The 28t you'll be spinning and not moving all that much.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

Triaxtremec said:


> Try the 30 t. The 28t you'll be spinning and not moving all that much.


How can you say that you have no idea what kind of bike this in on or how and where I ride it.


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

Sorry. Just going off my personal experience.


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

bdundee said:


> How can you say that you have no idea what kind of bike this in on or how and where I ride it.


+1.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

bdundee did u flip your b screw when you had it set up for the quick minute you did? oh and also, i'd go w/ a 29.5T ring


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

Triaxtremec said:


> Sorry. Just going off my personal experience.


It's ok I kinda set you up, it's on a fat bike with the biggest tire/rim combo available. Mainly used for snow and backwoods trekking, think monster truck of bikes. Just proving a point with the battle of the rings.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

fishwrinkle said:


> bdundee did u flip your b screw when you had it set up for the quick minute you did? oh and also, i'd go w/ a 29.5T ring


No sorry I didn't, probably should have for the sake of science. My new system was much easier to set up


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

i like the upgrade. what rim strip are you running, space blanket?


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

fishwrinkle said:


> i like the upgrade. what rim strip are you running, space blanket?


Thanks, some type of ripstop with reflective specks I think. If you are interested I can find out what it is for sure.


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## StuLax18 (Sep 27, 2011)

Triaxtremec said:


> Black is now open for SRAM as of 7:30pm today!!!!


I ordered mine at 7 CST, got the email they were in stock 2 hours later. They still have it showing in stock so that's good.

I don't mind waiting since I still need to get a new cassette, chain, and a couple front rings to try out or interchange depending on what I'm riding. I figure I can keep the 36 I already have on there, drop the 22 and pick up a 34 and 32 and maybe be done with 2x10 forever.


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## pastajet (May 26, 2006)

RS VR6 said:


> Has anybody run the b-tension screw backwards? My screw right now sits halfway off the stop. I concerned that it'll start to chew through the stop. I looked at it today and I'm seeing small bits a metal shavings (very very small amount).
> 
> I took this a few ago. I have several rides on my 42T...and so far I really like it. I'm just afraid that it'll keep chewing through the stop.
> 
> The RD is a Shimano XT Shadow Plus. Does SRAM RD's do this?


Another trick is to stick a locking nut on the end.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

pastajet said:


> Another trick is to stick a locking nut on the end.


Good trick!


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## dan4jeepin (Apr 9, 2007)

I grabbed a Wolftooth SRAM Cog before they sold out last night and a 34T S-works ring. I wanted a 32 ring but didn't feel like waiting for them to be back in stock.


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## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

I got my shimano cog yesterday. It only took about a week. It's really big. I guess that makes sense, but it caught me off guard. 

I've got an XT shadow plus RD, and these suggestions about the b screw are super helpful. Thanks folks.


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## Motorep (Jun 20, 2004)

Mine came in yesterday and I got it installed last night. Setup was pretty easy but I had the screw issue. I took out the washer and ran it in the stock position. Shifting up and down the cog is smooth with no delays. 

Gonna give it a ride tonight and see how everything works out. I still have the XTR triple crankset running the 32/24 at this point. I want to see how the 32/42 works on some of my local climbs before deciding on a 32 or 30 for the front. The 24 is there just in case my legs aren't seasoned enough yet. If I was still running the 5 Spot it wouldn't be an issue but I definitely feel the bigger wheels on the Sultan early in the season.


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

Motorep said:


> Mine came in yesterday and I got it installed last night. Setup was pretty easy but I had the screw issue. I took out the washer and ran it in the stock position. Shifting up and down the cog is smooth with no delays.
> 
> Gonna give it a ride tonight and see how everything works out. I still have the XTR triple crankset running the 32/24 at this point. I want to see how the 32/42 works on some of my local climbs before deciding on a 32 or 30 for the front. The 24 is there just in case my legs aren't seasoned enough yet. If I was still running the 5 Spot it wouldn't be an issue but I definitely feel the bigger wheels on the Sultan early in the season.


Not sure if full suspension or not, or either way really, make sure you have enough chain on there in the case you end up crossed on 32/42. If you did that and chain was too short for the potential growth with suspension action it might not be pretty.


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## Motorep (Jun 20, 2004)

jn35646 said:


> Not sure if full suspension or not, or either way really, make sure you have enough chain on there in the case you end up crossed on 32/42. If you did that and chain was too short for the potential growth with suspension action it might not be pretty.


Yeah, I pulled the shock and cycled the suspension. No issues with it.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

*Shimano XT Shadow Plus RD-M786 Rear Derailleur*

I just ordered a XT Shadow plus from Amazon, through CC I believe, $60! Nice....

Robbed the N/W Race Face 34T off my single speed, now Wolftooth needs to get the 42Ts back in stock....



Mr.Quint said:


> I got my shimano cog yesterday. It only took about a week. It's really big. I guess that makes sense, but it caught me off guard.
> 
> I've got an XT shadow plus RD, and these suggestions about the b screw are super helpful. Thanks folks.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Lower cog shifting is pretty weak, especially dropping to the lowest gear, the lack of chain wrap is pretty bad. Here's what I'm talking about









Shifting from 36-43-36 is just fine.

When you ladies grow a pair you can run one of these bad boys up front


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

Yody said:


> Lower cog shifting is pretty weak, especially dropping to the lowest gear, the lack of chain wrap is pretty bad. Here's what I'm talking about
> 
> Shifting from 36-43-36 is just fine.


Hey that GC looks familiar!! Anyhoo it gets me thinking so why are there so many on here are reporting positive reports and a few with pos reports, are peoples standards just different? Does it make a difference with what you where use to before making the switch? I know coming from an awesome shifting xtr setup to adding the 42 it just felt lacking. I do know it can be a fine system for some.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Yody said:


> When you ladies grow a pair you can run one of these bad boys up front
> 
> View attachment 868966


Cool deal! Is that a 30t, or *gasp*....a 28?


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Yup, online reviews, you get all kinds... 

It shifts for the most part pretty decent, its really just those last few small cogs when shifting down them. Everything else is good (so far). I have the b tension screw adjusted so on the big ring it just stops making noise when pedaling, so go in too tight so it makes noise and then back it out right till its quiet.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

JMac47 said:


> Cool deal! Is that a 30t, or *gasp*....a 28?


Oh yeah bro you know it! I'm finally man enough to push that single ring! 28T got me climbin hills like never before!

Lol, its a 36T


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Yody said:


> Oh yeah bro you know it! I'm finally man enough to push that single ring! 28T got me climbin hills like never before!
> 
> Lol, its a 36T


Hah! Caught you lurkin!! Which Mojo you running?


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

bdundee said:


> Hey that GC looks familiar!! Anyhoo it gets me thinking so why are there so many on here are reporting positive reports and a few with pos reports, are peoples standards just different? Does it make a difference with what you where use to before making the switch? I know coming from an awesome shifting xtr setup to adding the 42 it just felt lacking. I do know it can be a fine system for some.


Most are more concerned about the lows than the highs

Pedaling


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

bdundee said:


> Anyhoo it gets me thinking so why are there so many on here are reporting positive reports and a few with pos reports


Right. Wait!....whaaaaaat? Does a double positive make it a negative?  I'm a$$uming pos is an acronym for something less positive.....


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

JMac47 said:


> Right. Wait!....whaaaaaat? Does a double positive make it a negative?  I'm a$$uming pos is an acronym for something less positive.....


Yeah sorry  and I guess (piece of $hit) might have been a little harsh cuz it's really not.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

bdundee said:


> Hey that GC looks familiar!! Anyhoo it gets me thinking so why are there so many on here are reporting positive reports and a few with pos reports, are peoples standards just different? Does it make a difference with what you where use to before making the switch? I know coming from an awesome shifting xtr setup to adding the 42 it just felt lacking. I do know it can be a fine system for some.


Yeah thanks man, appreciate the deal!


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

JMac47 said:


> Hah! Caught you lurkin!! Which Mojo you running?


HD of course  been running it since late 2010.


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

Yody said:


> Lower cog shifting is pretty weak, especially dropping to the lowest gear, the lack of chain wrap is pretty bad. Here's what I'm talking about
> 
> View attachment 868965
> 
> ...


I am having the same problem in the smaller gears. When I am on the 11 the chain jumps when I really stand on it. My gears and SLX have 3 rides on them.

I noticed when I was adjusting the B screw the derailleur really moves back. Is there an adjustment to get the derailleur moved back up so the chain covers more of gear?


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

kingchickenstrip said:


> I am having the same problem in the smaller gears. When I am on the 11 the chain jumps when I really stand on it. My gears and SLX have 3 rides on them.
> 
> I noticed when I was adjusting the B screw the derailleur really moves back. Is there an adjustment to get the derailleur moved back up so the chain covers more of gear?


I had the same issue. Had to dial the b tension down as far as possible while still allowing a smooth shift to the 42. Was disheartening at first... Seems to not be a problem now. It was only happening if I stood on the pedals while barely moving. Plenty of riding over the weekend and no skipping in real world use because you tend to downshift before you find yourself mashing like that.

I think lack of chain wrap on the 11 is just a drawback of this mod.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

*So far best cheap upgrade this year!!!*

I did a ride I have done over 500 times on my new cheap guy 1x10 with Wolfstooth 42T Rear cog. It is a 14 mile loop with 1200 feet elevation climb and a nice downhill.

What I liked:
No left shifter, cable & front derailleur. 
Shifted smooth as before except going down off big ring to 36. Not a big deal.
No dropped chain or even an indication it could drop
Easy set up installing B tension screw and setting up cassette
B tension screw included is high quality allen screw an improvemnet
Plenty of gearing choices and I was riding 3x10
Besides twisting shifter adjuster slightly while riding very little fine tuning
Great experience and total cost $89.00 ( I fished extra parts out of my parts bin )
The 11 tooth in rear with 32 tooth front never got spun out on downhill

What I didn't like but expected
Climbs very similar as 22 front and rear 36 but not quite as easy. More like 34 tooth cassette. Maybe I'm imagining? Gearing genius' can calculate 42 rear 32 front compared to 36 rear 22 front (old set-up)
When riding on road to my house Big front ring was missed slightly 2 minutes of 5 minute ride. Again, no big deal.

Overall I'm not switching back anytime soon. It was a pleasant experience and the simplicity of it is great. The clutter relief on my handlebars is very nice. It was well worth the small cost and shifting is 
simple and crisp.

My set-up 
Wolfstooth Black 42T
Shimano XT M786 Shadow+ 10 Speed Long Cage derailleur
KMC X10SL Chain 119 Links
Shimano XT 10 speed right shifter
11-36 Shimano XT M771 cassette 17 tooth ring and spacer removed
Shimano SLX Crank w/ new ss 32 tooth and bash guard 
Jamis 650B2 17.71 inch Chainstay length
SEE PICTURES


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

kingchickenstrip said:


> I am having the same problem in the smaller gears. When I am on the 11 the chain jumps when I really stand on it. My gears and SLX have 3 rides on them.
> 
> I noticed when I was adjusting the B screw the derailleur really moves back. Is there an adjustment to get the derailleur moved back up so the chain covers more of gear?


Your chain *shouldn't* jump once its in gear. I've used the 11-15 this weekend more than I usually do and I had no skips.

I do get the really slow shifts though. I have to hold down the shifter a slight bit longer than I used to for shifting into a larger cog. If I try to do a quick shift...it'll start to skip...then eventually it'll shift. Once the chain gets into the 17 and larger...it shifts good.

There is nothing you can do about the chain wrap on the small cogs. Price you pay for cranking the derailleur beyond it "normal" capabilities. I guess that why Shimano put that plastic spacer on the b tension screw...so you don't crank the screw that far down...lol...

The 30/42 is like being in the 26/36 on a 2x10.


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

winsail said:


> I did a ride I have done over 500 times on my new cheap guy 1x10 with Wolfstooth 42T Rear cog.


You mean the smart guy 1142 , right?


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

Davide said:


> You mean the smart guy 1142 , right?


I paid the price for the x01 and sleeping like a baby but you keep up the fight to rid the world of the evil Sram. Have you had any real experience with either system and any long term reports on the GC or are you just flappin your... uh fingers?


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## kuuk (May 26, 2008)

Just finished my install, upshifts pretty good and downshifts pretty good until the last two small cogs. On the last two it shifts ok but the lack of chainwrap is noticeable, no skips but only small test ride.


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## beachbum1 (Oct 2, 2012)

I ordered the OneUp and a 30t narrow wide coming from a 2 by 10 setup. I calculated and experimented with my current setup what a 30t up front and a 11t in the back would be like. I think it would be a similar gear ratio to 36t up front and 13t in back. I hope this is correct. I must suck because I never got close to going that fast to need that combination on the trails I ride.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Starting to feel a bit nervous on the chain wrap issue. There is a downhill on my after work ride that I hammer in the 11t cog and at 230# I can lay down some torque. A skipped chain at that speed under full effort can throw you right to the ground. Got my 42t cog on order so no real world experience yet.

Question....anybody know of a smaller wheel you could use in place of the top wheel on your derailleur? This may give you more clearance and thus would not need to crank as much b-tension. If not wolf tooth should make one or would the difference be moot?


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

*Wait and see*



WHALENARD said:


> Starting to feel a bit nervous on the chain wrap issue. There is a downhill on my after work ride that I hammer in the 11t cog and at 230# I can lay down some torque. A skipped chain at that speed under full effort can throw you right to the ground. Got my 42t cog on order so no real world experience yet.
> 
> Question....anybody know of a smaller wheel you could use in place of the top wheel on your derailleur? This may give you more clearance and thus would not need to crank as much b-tension. If not wolf tooth should make one or would the difference be moot?


I only have one ride in but am not experiencing problems with 11T. I will update after a 100 miles on new 42T.


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## spankone (Aug 31, 2011)

Davide said:


> You mean the smart guy 1142 , right?


Yeah this ain't a poor mans solution. It's the thinking mans solution.

The eBay sprocket from mtbtools at 38t seems like a safer middle ground. Not going to far past the mechs original capabilities.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

From reading all those reports on the small cog issues, I am starting to think that WT can provide a derailleur hanger for a select few frames. There are some manufacturers that use the same hanger on many models, maybe those are worth the investment.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

I doubt they will ever do that, because then people who can't get the hanger for their bike will never buy the cog. It is what it is, going into this you should know its a compromise.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

winsail said:


> Shimano SLX Crank w/ new ss 32 tooth and bash guard


I didn't notice a front chain retention device other than your bash guard. Doesn't look like a narrow/wide, is that "ss" meaning a single speed or stainless steel ring?

Thanks in advance.


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## Strafer.2 (Aug 6, 2012)

Anyone with SRAM derailleur having this chain wrap issue? (x9 or xo)


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

WHALENARD said:


> Question....anybody know of a smaller wheel you could use in place of the top wheel on your derailleur? This may give you more clearance and thus would not need to crank as much b-tension. If not wolf tooth should make one or would the difference be moot?


i don't think the 1 tooth gain would be much better, but let us know how it works. they're pretty cheap to experiment w/.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Strafer.2 said:


> Anyone with SRAM derailleur having this chain wrap issue? (x9 or xo)


I've not noticed this on my X0 Type 2, but I rarely hammer my 11t except in transition from a fast downhill to open uphill. I had some issues shifting from 19-15, and hammering in my 15, but then I dropped my 15 in favor of a 16, and it's smooth as silk now with no wrap issue.


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## Strafer.2 (Aug 6, 2012)

kragu said:


> I've not noticed this on my X0 Type 2, but I rarely hammer my 11t except in transition from a fast downhill to open uphill. I had some issues shifting from 19-15, and hammering in my 15, but then I dropped my 15 in favor of a 16, and it's smooth as silk now with no wrap issue.


Thanks, but does it look visually as bad as the Shimano pics some posted here when in 11t?


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

yes kragu, could you post up pics of this, plz? this is a deal breaker if i can't mash 11t cog w/o the worry of me mashing my face into the dirt. i threw my back out like this once before on the cassette i had before this one. i'm a lil gun shy now


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

Ss means single speed. I am not using any chain retention device. The 32T is just a standard Single speed ring


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

winsail, what brand ring are you running?


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## truongasaurus (May 10, 2013)

For anyone also adding a 16t to their cassette, where did you get it from?


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

I got mine from a new XT 11-32 cassette, not cheap but its the correct design cog for my XT 11-36 (also new, as I have a SLX on the bike at the moment...)


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## truongasaurus (May 10, 2013)

Noob question, but I'm assuming I have to use a shimano cog? Does it make a diff if it came from a 8/9 speed vs 10 speed?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## pastajet (May 26, 2006)

The best bet is to try and locate a Miche 10 Speed cog


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## truongasaurus (May 10, 2013)

Yeah I saw those online but they said it was only to be used with Miche cassettes... That not true then?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

pastajet said:


> The best bet is to try and locate a Miche 10 Speed cog


I tried one and it sucked poo on an xt cassette at least. If anyone wants it I will throw it in an envelope for ya just send me a pm.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I tried using a 16T...and it didn't shift right. I used a 16T from a Sram 1070 with my Sram 1030. It did not shift right. It kept skipping no matter how it was adjusted. Put the 15T back...and it was fine again.

When I was pedaling around...I could not feel much of a difference.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

It was in my parts bin from 4 cranks ago. I'm pretty sure it's a Race Face single speed 32T


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

So finally got a real ride on my setup today. I hafta say it might be a little early but its looking like the negatives are outweighing the positives.

1. The shifting is just not good. From 36 to 42 and back to 36 the shifting is just fine. But all of the lower cogs just don't shift crisp anymore, feels like a worn out cassette shifting thru the gears. Its honestly sub-par. Takes quite a bit of time for it to drop to the 11T too, like 3 or 4 crank revolutions. I ended up adjusting the low screw so the derailleur will over shift a little into 11 to help it drop down. (The HD swingarm clearance is tight so theres nowhere for the chain to go, no risk of dropping it too far) This nasty shifting is prob the worst thing

2. Falls off the 42T ring like no other when backpedaling. The chain line is geeked big time from the rear cog being so big. Half a back pedal and the chain is trying to fall off. I tried taking off both upper and lower guide to make sure they weren't interfering, they weren't. I can't get this to stop.

3. Similar to the chain falling off from backpedaling from the ring being so big, I'm also binding a little on my lower jockey wheel on my chain guide, making the drivetrain extra noisey when in 42T.

I'm pretty proficient at setting up my drivetrain, I don't think I have it misadjusted or out of line or any funny business. My cassette is fairly fresh, new chain, new front chain ring. Everythings pretty dialed.

This might be the poor mans X11, but its definitely the poor mans shifting quality. The thing that sucks is now with the 42Tx36T I won't ever want to go back to my old gearing 34T front, 36T rear. But I'm definitely not impressed with this setup. A lot of compromises. I'm going to give it a little more time and fine tune some more and get some more miles in, and see if I can get it better or whatnot and I'll will keep this updated. I'm still in the undecided zone, I need more time on it to get a solid opinion.

The good things were obviously the gearing, freaking badass having the big 36T up front, I don't have to downshift nearly as much. I can keep the chain in the middle of the cassette out back keeping good chain tension and still can pedal out of corners and keep momentum. Plus I'm now getting that extra gear for the steeps which is still not "easy" but its much more manageable.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

Sad to hear you're having problems with shifting on lower smaller cogs. Good luck getting it to work. I rode my 32T front 42T rear again last night and it's working nearly flawlessly except for drop from 42 to 36 which is not a big deal. I forgot to switch the clutch on the rear derailleur for the whole ride and it shifted great.


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## Strafer.2 (Aug 6, 2012)

*SRAM or Shimano, please specify*

Those of you reporting success/problems with this conversion, please state the brand to help out those on the fence (rear D and cassette). 
So far it seems Shimano is more sensitive?


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

Please look through the whole thread. I posted my entire set-up which is shimano with pictures and details a few days ago.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Shimano xtr no clutch. Xt cassette, 36t front ring


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

I presume the folks having slippage in the smaller cogs have not changed their chain/cassette combo? (i.e. new chain, old cassette, or vice versa)


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Yody said:


> Shimano xtr no clutch. Xt cassette, 36t front ring


Bummer man. Looks like you did a lot of knowledgeable fidgeting with your setup.

Now that you're enabled by that monster front ring you put on , had you checked out the smaller 38-39-40t? cogs from ActionTec or General Lee (other vendors escape me at the moment....) have? Think you could get by with a 36/39t granny?

Mentioning this as I wasn't getting at first the comments from others about $hitty shifting from 42-36, and in the lower cogs and lack of "chain wrap" in the 11 causing it to skip for some. Think I get it now, the extended adjustment of the B screw to clesr the larger cog pulls the upper pulley away from the axis of cassette and decreases the circumference of chain on the backside of it. Makes sense now. Wondering if less adjusting of derailleur for the 39t would solve some of the last tuning issues that are keeping the negatives over the positives.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

winsail said:


> Sad to hear you're having problems with shifting on lower smaller cogs. Good luck getting it to work. I rode my 32T front 42T rear again last night and it's working nearly flawlessly except for drop from 42 to 36 which is not a big deal. I forgot to switch the clutch on the rear derailleur for the whole ride and it shifted great.


I had better luck with the shifting when the clutch was off for some reason, flip it on and it and it went down the tubes.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

I will experiment to see which works best for me on my next ride. Last ride was an accident w/ no clutch and it worked great.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

da peach said:


> I presume the folks having slippage in the smaller cogs have not changed their chain/cassette combo? (i.e. new chain, old cassette, or vice versa)


I am not having any slippage problems on 11T Shimano cassette currently. Only thing new is the 42T rear and the 32T front on my drive train. Maybe it would work better with all new but it was working well before the update and after.


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

da peach said:


> I presume the folks having slippage in the smaller cogs have not changed their chain/cassette combo? (i.e. new chain, old cassette, or vice versa)


Correct. Used cassette, new chain. I resolved all my issues with fine tuning, which just happened to be a little more 'fine' than what is normally required. No slip on 11T under high strain anymore, that was only happening when I had the B tension too high. Once it was walked down as far as possible to still allow the 42T cog to function as needed it was OK on the 11.


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## team_wee (Mar 26, 2006)

Any one using it on a hardtail? Seems like a lot less could go wrong without suspension to deal with.


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

Someone explain what is clutch I'm losing it. Thanks ahead


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

protsi said:


> Someone explain what is clutch I'm losing it. Thanks ahead


They take a small clutch from a Mini Cooper and put it on your rear derailleur, so you don't have to pedal anymore. Just pop the clutch lever and away you go.

You're welcome!


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

protsi said:


> Someone explain what is clutch I'm losing it. Thanks ahead


Newer 10/¹¹ speed derailleurs have a built in tension device that keeps the chain from slapping around.


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

I am using it on a hardtali. Shifting is a little slower on the small grears. I have done some more adjusting and the shifting is better.

I am still having the problem with the chain slip on the 11. I was gonig to try an XT Shadow Plus RD-M786 Rear Derailleur. It is a direct mount to the frame and looks like it will wrap around the 11 better. I am also going to try a longer chain to help with my crappy chain line.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

team_wee said:


> Any one using it on a hardtail? Seems like a lot less could go wrong without suspension to deal with.


I'm using it on a hardtail. I don't have any issues above the 17T. Shifts from the 36 to 42 and back are smooth. Runs fairly quiet when I'm in the 42T. I get the slow shifting in the smaller cogs. I don't get chain slip in the 11T.

I'm using a Shimano XT Shadow Plus rear derailleur. I just switched to an I-spec XT shifter from an SLX...not sure that'll make any difference.


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## Philip Clemmons (Sep 20, 2012)

Has anyone tried a 38-40? Seems like it may be a good compromise.


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

Maybe a dum question! It is posible to use a X0 9 spd derailleur in a ten sped cassette with the correct shifter ? I'm trying to find the easy way to go 1x10


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

Shimano Shadow plus derailleurs have a tensioner which they call a clutch and you can switch it in or out SRAM has a version of it also. It's the latest gimmick and for my own use it's one I could live without, but of course I have it.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

JMac47 said:


> Bummer man. Looks like you did a lot of knowledgeable fidgeting with your setup.
> 
> Now that you're enabled by that monster front ring you put on , had you checked out the smaller 38-39-40t? cogs from ActionTec or General Lee (other vendors escape me at the moment....) have? Think you could get by with a 36/39t granny?
> 
> Mentioning this as I wasn't getting at first the comments from others about $hitty shifting from 42-36, and in the lower cogs and lack of "chain wrap" in the 11 causing it to skip for some. Think I get it now, the extended adjustment of the B screw to clesr the larger cog pulls the upper pulley away from the axis of cassette and decreases the circumference of chain on the backside of it. Makes sense now. Wondering if less adjusting of derailleur for the 39t would solve some of the last tuning issues that are keeping the negatives over the positives.


Exactly.

However, I'm not getting any skpping or slipping in 11 tooth and I've put full power down, just the shifting that is not any good and the backpedaling deraillement.

Also With the Low screw adjustment it is shifting down into 11tooth quicker now. Still though the shifting is not nearly as crisp or instantaneous as before.

I was running a 34T front with the 11/36 cassette rear, the 36 up front is kinda big but I've ran it before. A monster is a 38T. I'd save that for the pros


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## xhailofgunfirex (Jun 25, 2008)

The chain wrap on these 1x10 big tooth cogs is definitely an issue in smaller gears. Been running the 40 tooth general lee conversion for about 350 miles now and my main issues are the slipping in the 11 tooth gear and it dropping off the 11 tooth in some conditions. Running Shimano SLX clutch mid cage rear derailleur and double SLX crankset with 30 tooth. There's definitely some annoyances with the setup, and I see this as more of a stop gap till something better comes out or SRAM can get the price down on the cassettes.

I was debating converting my other bike to 1x10 with a wolf tooth or one up and dont think I'll be doing that.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Got a solid ride on it today. The delay in gear drop on the smaller lower cogs was not as much of an issue on-trail. Riding around in front of my house slowly shifting it feels bad, but on the trail with momentum it was barely noticable (but Not non-existent)

The 42T is still so huge that the chain line sucks and I need to clearance out part of my chain guide as the chain is rubbing badly when in 42T as you're pedaling it is dragging against the plastic.

It still will derail on backspin badly within a half turn too.

Like the above ^^ I'd agree and say this is a setup until something better comes out. Its definitely got some compromises. Right now I think I can get it good enough that I'm willing to deal with the compromises. I like the gearing. But I could see myself down the road upgrading to something else and looking back and thinking how jank this was, lol.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Yody said:


> But I could see myself down the road upgrading to something else and looking back and thinking how jank this was, lol.


Aren't we all? Thats how MTB companies make their money


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## cokratex (Jul 28, 2012)

http://www.hxr-vtt.com/427-pignon-42-dents-hxr-.html

One more option! Costs more, but is supplied with a 16T replacement for the 15T and 17T.

Sent from my LG-E975 using Tapatalk


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

Yody said:


> The 42T is still so huge that the chain line sucks and I need to clearance out part of my chain guide as the chain is rubbing badly when in 42T as you're pedaling it is dragging against the plastic.
> 
> It still will derail on backspin badly within a half turn too.


Chainline issue- thats caused by the chainguide more than the GC. Ditch the chainguide and your chainline would be better, no?

With clutch derailleurs and N/W chainrings I am really happy to see chainguides becoming obsolete. I have an ISCG mount MRP AMG on one bike, it's just a taco really, doesn't affect my chainline at all.

Seems like you do have to go all-in with the ghetto x11 solution to get it to work optimally (42t cog, NW ring, clutch der)


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

FM said:


> Seems like you do have to go all-in with the ghetto x11 solution to get it to work optimally (42t cog, NW ring, clutch der)


Not only that, but you'll see a difference if using a WT direct mount ring, which has more dish for a pretty good chainline vs. one that mounts in the outer ring position of a 2x or 3x crankset.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

FM said:


> Seems like you do have to go all-in with the ghetto x11 solution to get it to work optimally (42t cog, NW ring, clutch der)


For those of us running NW, clutch and 11-36 already, a cog and b-screw isn't a huge investment.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

bdundee said:


> I had better luck with the shifting when the clutch was off for some reason, flip it on and it and it went down the tubes.


I've heard that too. Unfortunately "after" I invested in a clutch derailleur....


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

kragu said:


> Not only that, but you'll see a difference if using a WT direct mount ring, which has more dish for a pretty good chainline vs. one that mounts in the outer ring position of a 2x or 3x crankset.


All of my normal Chain rings mount to the inside of crankset, where the middle ring was, exact same chainline.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

protsi said:


> Maybe a dum question! It is posible to use a X0 9 spd derailleur in a ten sped cassette with the correct shifter ? I'm trying to find the easy way to go 1x10


No replies, as with myself, others may not be sure exactly what you're asking? Sounds like you're wanting to know if you can use your 9spd derailleur in a 10spd setup?

Explain.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

FM said:


> Chainline issue- thats caused by the chainguide more than the GC. Ditch the chainguide and your chainline would be better, no?
> 
> With clutch derailleurs and N/W chainrings I am really happy to see chainguides becoming obsolete. I have an ISCG mount MRP AMG on one bike, it's just a taco really, doesn't affect my chainline at all.
> 
> Seems like you do have to go all-in with the ghetto x11 solution to get it to work optimally (42t cog, NW ring, clutch der)


The guide doesn't affect the chainline, its just that the chainline gets worse with a 42T cog, and the chain now rubs against the guide. I'm going to clearance it a lil today and see if I can fix it


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Yody said:


> The guide doesn't affect the chainline, its just that the chainline gets worse with a 42T cog, and the chain now rubs against the guide. I'm going to clearance it a lil today and see if I can fix it


Off Topic Yody, Annadel is goin off now if you can get over there before any rain hits. Actually even if it does. Had 33 miles of trail bliss up there yesterday......


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Was planning on sunday, I just rode China Camp backside and it was beautiful


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Clearanced out the upper and lower guides. Its running quieter now. Still a terrible chain line. Gonna wear out the components quick


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## team_wee (Mar 26, 2006)

I'm confused, how does the chain line change??? it's still in the exact same position. the only thing that changes is the diameter of the cog.


Yody said:


> The guide doesn't affect the chainline, its just that the chainline gets worse with a 42T cog, and the chain now rubs against the guide. I'm going to clearance it a lil today and see if I can fix it


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

I know seems confusing, but with such a tall cog it has to reach higher and lower which seems to exaggerate the chain line


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## J.R.A. (Nov 21, 2012)

Got my OneUp from the first shipment they sent out and put it on my Specialized Stumpy29er with a new 1030 cassette a new Whippermann black chain and a XX rear D hangs from the frame. Was running XX rear cassette and had to buy 1030 to make work. Once installed it shifted pretty good in the stand and ok on the trail. Very very happy with purchase. Wasnt to thrilled with the shifting after a couple of rides so decieded to put on a kmc 10 speed chain(not the SL) and BLAMO shifted like butter on the stand and on the trail. I also swapped out the 15 for a 16t I had in the tool box and no shifting issues at all. 

Then I decided to install the 42t on my Santa Cruz Blur LtC while my Wofltooth 42 is on order and it also worked fine switching it over to that bike. Its setup with a used 1070(not heavily) and a new XO non-cluth med cage r derailleur and put that Whippermann black chain on from the first go around and no shifting issuses at all. Had a old powerglide 11-43 in the tool box that looked brand new so I cut the 16t of the plastic carrier and am planning on installing it all when the Wolftooth arrives. 

Running a Wolftooth 30t Direct Mount up front on both bikes.


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

^ If I remember right Wolftooth recommends not using Wippermann chains.


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> ^ If I remember right Wolftooth recommends not using Wippermann chains.


I remember that too, but upon investigation, I think this was in reference to their chainrings, not the GC.

I hope not...my brand new Wipperman awaits along with my brand new cassette and RF narrow wide to complete my 42T GC install tonight...


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

da peach said:


> I remember that too, but upon investigation, I think this was in reference to their chainrings, not the GC.
> 
> I hope not...my brand new Wipperman awaits along with my brand new cassette and RF narrow wide to complete my 42T GC install tonight...


I think you're right. But, I have a feeling they won't work well with any narrow/wide chain ring.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey All,
Just catching up on the conversation here. 
With regards to Wipperman chains, I was testing a ring with a Wipperman chain that was too narrow to fit on our rings. This particular chain measured ~.3mm more narrow (inner plate to inner plate distance) than SRAM, and SRAM is generally a little more narrow that Shimano. That said I am running a different Wipperman right now with no issues, and it measures like all the other brands.
We put that notification up on our site as a precautionary measure, and we are working with Wipperman to understand the issue. We will update our site with info once we resolve the issue.

Summary: if you have a wipperman chain and it fits on the ring without physically having to press it over the teeth, then go ahead and use it.

-Brendan


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

Brendan, any update on red sram?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@digifun - one of the next batches will be red (next week or two). We are ramping up the GC production and the batches will start flowing!


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

WolfTooth said:


> Hey All,
> Just catching up on the conversation here.
> With regards to Wipperman chains, I was testing a ring with a Wipperman chain that was too narrow to fit on our rings. This particular chain measured ~.3mm more narrow (inner plate to inner plate distance) than SRAM, and SRAM is generally a little more narrow that Shimano. That said I am running a different Wipperman right now with no issues, and it measures like all the other brands.
> We put that notification up on our site as a precautionary measure, and we are working with Wipperman to understand the issue. We will update our site with info once we resolve the issue.
> ...


Brendan, it's Valentines night. Take a break and go get some tail!


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## kuuk (May 26, 2008)

Just got in my first ride on my new setup(wolf 42t)on the Bronson, converted shimano xt 2x10 to 1x, with clutch xt rd and 32 narrow wide up front. I used 3mm spacers on the front chainring to help the chain line and I was happy with that, ran quiet. Shifting with the clutch off was good. Shifting between the 36 and 42 feels like it came that way from Shimano, it was fine. I had a few sluggish shifts between the two cogs where the 17t was, not a deal breaker at this point. Maybe my clutch needs lube or an adjustment but it didn't shift as well with the clutch on.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

You may have already done all this but if you haven't.....
Have you considered taking off the chainguide, bashguard,etc. and seeing how it works then add one thing at a time to isolate your problem or are you happy with the way your 1x10 is working?


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## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

Hey Brendan or any one else,

Any reason why I couldn't do this: leave the 17t sprocket in and take out the 11T? Replacing the stock locking ring with an oversized one, such as this,

Oversized Lockring for Bicycle Cassettes for 12 Teeth | eBay

Thanks


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

jon123 said:


> Hey Brendan or any one else,
> 
> Any reason why I couldn't do this: leave the 17t sprocket in and take out the 11T? Replacing the stock locking ring with an oversized one, such as this,
> 
> ...


I've ran a system that way for awhile, actually very common in the fat bike secret society.


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## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

bdundee - Have you tried running it that way with the OneUp or Wolf Tooth 42T?


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

jon123 said:


> bdundee - Have you tried running it that way with the OneUp or Wolf Tooth 42T?


Not with the 42 hack but it should not be a problem, spacing is spacing. If you don't mind loosing top end I think it would be the way to go, it would sure help to lessen the der. range requirement of 11-42. The only thing you need to watch for is with the 11t and the way it engages into the free hub and actually countersinks in to grab more spline so just make sure the one you leave on the outside has enough to contact the spline properly. I have turned some pretty big tires set up this way and have never had a problem.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

jon123 said:


> Hey Brendan or any one else,
> 
> Any reason why I couldn't do this: leave the 17t sprocket in and take out the 11T? Replacing the stock locking ring with an oversized one, such as this,
> 
> ...


I think the idea of the wide range cassettes is big drive ratios. If you take out the 11 cog the smallest is now 13.

11-36: 3.27
11-42: 3.82
12-42: 3.5
13-42: 3.23

So you actually get less ratio with 13 cog, and still have to pay the price of less chain wrap and the other issues people reported here. You will do better with a smaller chainring.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

J.R.A. said:


> Got my OneUp from the first shipment they sent out and put it on my Specialized Stumpy29er with a new 1030 cassette a new Whippermann black chain and a XX rear D hangs from the frame. Was running XX rear cassette and had to buy 1030 to make work. Once installed it shifted pretty good in the stand and ok on the trail. Very very happy with purchase. Wasnt to thrilled with the shifting after a couple of rides so decieded to put on a kmc 10 speed chain(not the SL) and BLAMO shifted like butter on the stand and on the trail. I also swapped out the 15 for a 16t I had in the tool box and no shifting issues at all.
> 
> Then I decided to install the 42t on my Santa Cruz Blur LtC while my Wofltooth 42 is on order and it also worked fine switching it over to that bike. Its setup with a used 1070(not heavily) and a new XO non-cluth med cage r derailleur and put that Whippermann black chain on from the first go around and no shifting issuses at all. Had a old powerglide 11-43 in the tool box that looked brand new so I cut the 16t of the plastic carrier and am planning on installing it all when the Wolftooth arrives.
> 
> Running a Wolftooth 30t Direct Mount up front on both bikes.


Doesn't your stumpy pedal like poo with a 30t ring? My one and only reason for getting the 42t cog is so I can run a bigger front ring on my stumpy for better pedaling .


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## westeast (Nov 27, 2010)

I'm dumbfounded every time someone mentions dropping the 11t when considering these 42t additions. 

I just got my GC for shimano a few days ago. I was going to try running it with a 30t up front and hopefully a 32t after the legs toughen up, but after hearing about the poor shifting issues I think I'll wait until after a bike trip I have coming up soon. I originally had planned on waiting for the absolute black 40t ring. It will be interesting to see when those come out if the shifting performance in the smaller cogs is better than with the 42t. I was really hoping shimano would come out with a 40 or 42 10 speed cassette and derailleur that would work with current 10 speed shimano shifters, but it looks like that's not going to happen.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

WHALENARD said:


> Doesn't your stumpy pedal like poo with a 30t ring? My one and only reason for getting the 42t cog is so I can run a bigger front ring on my stumpy for better pedaling .


What's your definition of "poo"? It looks like the Stumpy would probably be happiest with something around a 26/28 if pedal bob is what you're trying to get rid of.

Specialized Stumpjumper 29'' 2012 - Linkage Design


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

car_nut said:


> What's your definition of "poo"? It looks like the Stumpy would probably be happiest with something around a 26/28 if pedal bob is what you're trying to get rid of.
> 
> Specialized Stumpjumper 29'' 2012 - Linkage Design


Ah...cool link...I have not seen those anti squat graphs before. My understanding (on the 26" evo anyway) was the bigger the chain ring the larger level of anti squat or am I missing something? I can say with 100% certainty that my bike pedals best with a 34t ring, ok with 32t ring, and not so good with 30t ring.

edit--- when say pedals like poo I'm not sure I'm referring to pedal endued bob or not per say. The best way to describe how it pedals with a 30t ring is like a slug, or as if the brakes are slightly on. Just takes more effort to get going.


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

I'm clearly doing something wrong. My derailleur is fouling on the cog 









Btension doesn't seem to improve it.

I is stupid.


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

I'm clearly doing something wrong. My derailleur is fouling on the cog


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Is your hanger severely bent?


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## westeast (Nov 27, 2010)

bent derailleur hanger?


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## jdee2wheels (Nov 29, 2010)

Well, I just got my Wooth Tooth Shimano cog today and had a chance to install it. My setup is as follows:

Pivot 429
Completely new drivetrain w/
Shimano XT mid cage der. w/ clutch
XT cassette - 10spd
Shimano XT chain
Race Face NW 32tooth

Overall the quality of the machining on the cog is excellent and it was delivered really quickly, so I'm impressed with the service.

The weather on the east coast is pretty terrible right now so I'll reserve judgment till I get a chance to ride it, but from shifting through the gears in the stand, I don't have a warm fuzzy feeling about it so far.

A few observations:

- The shifting is not as smooth in the higher gears due to the position of the upper jockey wheel
- Gets noticeably worse with the clutch engaged.
- Jump from 15 to 19 seems ok with the clutch off, but is not very smooth with the clutch on, sometimes requiring you to push a little past the click on the shifter to get it to go.
- With the b screw turned in so much and the upper jockey wheel so far away from the higher gears, alignment of your d. hanger is SUPER critical. Mine was just a little tweaked but my shifting was fine before. As soon as I turned the b screw in the required amount, I got gear skipping. I had to break out the hanger alignment tool and get the hanger absolutely perfect before my shifting was back to borderline acceptable levels. I think this is my biggest concern since its really hard to keep the alignment perfect on a mt bike when even the slightest tweak of the hanger or der. could throw things off so much.

Anyway, this could all change once the bike is on the trail and the chain has some load on it during shifting. I'll post update once I can actually get a ride in.


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

Well I put a fresh hanger on, and it now clears. But BARELY. Still seems weird. I still can't get it to work right. 

New EVERYTHING. chain, hanger, derailleur, cassette, cog and chainring. 

I am not going to be fooling anyone into thinking I'm a bike mechanic.


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## StuLax18 (Sep 27, 2011)

Looks like the Wolf Tooth SRAM version shipped out early, supposed to arrive here Tuesday. I haven't even ordered my cassette, chain, and NW ring yet...


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## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

One thing that's interesting is that people seem to be getting radically different results with the same stuff. Maybe radically is an exaggeration, but personal preferences seem to make a difference in what is acceptable. 

My new cassette got delayed by the constant storms, so I haven't put mine one yet. I have no idea what to expect, and tuning gears is not one of my strong suits. 

It'll be an adventure!


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## pharmaboy (Nov 11, 2005)

Just look at the various designs of deraileur hangers and it becomes clear that not all dérailleurs sit in the same spot - which I suppose is why b screws exist. I can't help but think that a 40t with an included 16t is the best package for most systems .


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## J.R.A. (Nov 21, 2012)

No my stumpy doesnt pedal like poo. It pedals fine for a slow fat guy who lives where there are a lot of hills. Going back to my previous post; I am running a Whippermann black chain on a Wolftooth front chainring with NO issues at all. The chain must be the newer version.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

J.R.A. said:


> No my stumpy doesnt pedal like poo. Its perfect for ME!!!!!!!!! Thats what I hate about posting sometimes. Responses like this one our thats not the right way do things to your bike. I dont weigh 165 pounds with all my gear on, I weigh more like 260 so 30t ring on the front is what I want to run. If I could run a 34 or 36 and lived in florida maybe but Im fat and live in Washington with steep hills to climb. My bike is perfect for .......wait for it .......ME and nobody else. Just as your bike is perfect for you and not for me. This thread was for determining weather people who had bought either ring did it work what components your running and do you think its worth the $100 upgrade. I guess I was wrong.....YOUR BIKE SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!


Ummmmm....calm down there big fella. I wasn't putting you, your bike, or your post down in any way whatsoever. I was genuinely interested in some input on how you liked the 30t ring & if you planned to go bigger if you got 42t cog seeing we have the same bike. Forums are for information & I use them as such. One advantage of having a 42t cog is the ability to run a bigger chain ring on a 1x setup so I think dare I say it we are on topic.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

My set-up 
Wolfstooth Black 42T
Shimano XT M786 Shadow+ 10 Speed Long Cage derailleur
KMC X10SL Chain 119 Links
Shimano XT 10 speed right shifter
11-36 Shimano XT M771 cassette 17 tooth ring and spacer removed
Shimano SLX Crank w/ new ss 32 tooth and bash guard 
Jamis 650B2 17.71 inch Chainstay length

I have a few rides in and about 80 Miles on my set-up. 
What is still working great..
Single front ring and simplified shifting with uncluttered bars
Clutch on Shadow derailleur is best only on downhills not on uphill
Chain never falls off
Still well worth the $89.00 spent
Shifts almost as well as 3x10 set-up with less dropped chains and less weight
What still isn't better
13T to 11T shifting
Climbing in granny 32T x 42T vs 22T x 36T is easier but improvement is negligible 
Riding home on the pavement I get spun out


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

Well, I'll give it another go with a mechanic buddy, but I couldn't get it shifting right. I've taken off the GC and just kept my 30t narrow wide (which is down from the 32t I had on before) and threw the cassette back on in 11-36 configuration.

Some of my climbs are going to turn in to walks...

I fear I may be going back to 2x10.


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

are you using a short cage derailleur?


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

Nope. Tried a long cage Xtr shadow+, and a med cage xt shadow+

Neither cooperated.


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

weird, I get mine next week. Hoping it all works out. I'll be using Sram X9 long cage with and XKM 30t chainring. So we'll see what happens.


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## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

Anyone tried the Wolf Tooth/OneUp 42T and the Leonardi General Lee? Thoughts on how they compare?
One thing I like about the General Lee is the option of going with a max 40T (instead of 42T). Obviously more expensive though.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

da peach said:


> Well, I'll give it another go with a mechanic buddy, but I couldn't get it shifting right. I've taken off the GC and just kept my 30t narrow wide (which is down from the 32t I had on before) and threw the cassette back on in 11-36 configuration.
> 
> Some of my climbs are going to turn in to walks...
> 
> I fear I may be going back to 2x10.


Have you tried to run the b tension screw from the other side?


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

Yup. I even used the new bolt included with the cog. I did get it work sort of okay, but nowhere near well enough risking an outing dicking around with it on the trail.


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## MudBike (Oct 22, 2005)

jon123 said:


> Anyone tried the Wolf Tooth/OneUp 42T and the Leonardi General Lee? Thoughts on how they compare?
> One thing I like about the General Lee is the option of going with a max 40T (instead of 42T). Obviously more expensive though.


Here is my setup:
Bronson C frame
New direct mount derailleur hanger
XTR M980 rear med cage derailleur with b-tension screw flipped
SLX directional chain
Wolf Tooth 30T GXP direct mount on a XX1 crankset in front
11-36 Shimano M771 cassette
Hadley hubs

I tried a General Lee 29-42. I could not get the shifting on/off the 29T of the GL to work acceptably. I know there will be some degradation of shift quality, but this was way beyond that. In their defense mine was one of the first to be released. I am under the impression Leonardi has updated the shift ramp and tooth profiles since then. I sent it back and am hoping they will replace it with the updated version.

Currently running the Wolf Tooth 42T GC. I replaced the 15T cog with a 16T. Shifting is good, slightly slower as expected but quite acceptable. Shifting on/off the 42T is great. Only issue I have is backpedaling on the 42T cog causes the chain to step off toward the smaller cogs. I have not had a chance to put in enough proper rides in to see if this will be a problem on the trail.

Hope this helps.


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

Looking for other peoples experience and thoughts here.

My setup:

2013 Pivot Firebird
Shimanon XT triple crankset running a Wolf Tooth 30t N/W chainring in the middle
Shimano XT 11-36 cassette with the Wolf Tooth Shimano GC 42t (I removed the 17t and spacer and replaced the 15t with a Shimano XT 16t cog to even out the jumps between the 13t and 19t.
Shimano XT Shadow Plus long cage rear derailleur with Shimano XT 10spd shifter

Now for my problem:
I am trying to install the WT GC and WT N/W chainring for the first time. As far as I can tell I have everything installed correctly and was going about putting a new KMC 10spd chain on and figuring out proper chain length. I realized that if I back pedal the cranks the chain crawls up onto the GC teeth and wants to fall off down to the 36t cog. Looking at the chain line it is pretty severe from the 30t chainring to the 42t GC. I thought about spacing my chainring in a bit with washer but the washers won't allow the Wolf Tooth chainring to nest into the XT spider correctly if I use them and then there is slop in the spider bolt holes.

So, does anybody else have this problem when backpedaling their Shimano Wolf Tooth GC? What chainring are you running? Most people seem to be running at least a 32t chainring. I'm wondering if the slightly shorter diameter 30t might be allowing the chain to catch the next tooth on the cog to soon when back pedaling and allowing it to ride up the tooth and eventually dump off the front. Also, Does the Shimano XT crankset and BB have to have the 2mm spacer on the drive side between the BB shell face and the driveside BB cup? I was thinking I might remove it to get a slightly better chainline.


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## cobym2 (Apr 11, 2005)

rehammer,

I didnt have a chance to see if my chain "crawl up" and fall to the 36 while backpedalling. Thats because before I installed the 42t cog, I already set up my cranks with a Works 34t ring *without* the spacer on the driveside for a better chainline. So my chainline is inboard by at least 2.5mm already, and lines up somewhere around the 3rd largest cog. The regular endo chainline seems to be biased towards the outer cogs and my expereince/setup may not be applicable to other frames.

Flawless shifting and retention so far. No rubbing, shifts crisply in all gears, and I didnt even need to turn in the B tension screw. Literally, just slapped on the 42 t cog, put a slightly longer chain (was running 1x10, 36x36 low gear previously) and rode 14 miles of AM trails without a hitch).

Bike setup: 
2011 Knolly Endorphin, XT cranks, Works chainring 34t, Oneup 42t. SRAM 1071 cassette, SRAM X9 Type 2 medium cage


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

cobym2 said:


> rehammer,
> 
> I didnt have a chance to see if my chain "crawl up" and fall to the 36 while backpedalling. Thats because before I installed the 42t cog, I installed my cranks with a Works 34t ring *without* the spacer on the driveside for a better chainline. So my chainline is inboard by at least 2.5mm.
> 
> ...


Thanks cobym. As long as it isn't an issue to install the XT BB without the spacer between the frame and driveside BB cup I'll give that a try.


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## cobym2 (Apr 11, 2005)

JMac47 said:


> No replies, as with myself, others may not be sure exactly what you're asking? Sounds like you're wanting to know if you can use your 9spd derailleur in a 10spd setup?
> 
> Explain.


I had an old XO 9 speed RD, and it worked with a Dynasis XT (shimano) shifter with a Shimano 10 speed cassette. Read in some forum that this was possible. Shifting was, at best, not smooth. I wouldnt recommend it at all. Took it off after 1 ride and invested in SRAM X9 10 speed stuff.


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## mtbdl (Sep 19, 2008)

winsail said:


> Climbing in granny 32T x 42T vs 22T x 36T is easier but improvement is negligible


Check my math but 32x42 (.76) is harder than 22x36 (.61). You'd need a 26x42 (.62) to get a similar granny gear.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

mtbdl said:


> Check my math but 32x42 (.76) is harder than 22x36 (.61). You'd need a 26x42 (.62) to get a similar granny gear.


My legs noticed the same thing, that's what I am running a 26x42.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Does the sram XX1 / XO1 have the same issue backpedaling on the largest cog?


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

CrozCountry said:


> Does the sram XX1 / XO1 have the same issue backpedaling on the largest cog?


My xo1 doesn't but then again I really don't spend much time running in the 42 and when I am there is no coasting or back peddling just spinning your azz off. It's truly a smooth running system and for the price it should be. (for the record I tried it in the stand and it doesn't)


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

I wonder if adding an x01 rear derailleur to this set up would work/improve some of the issues? Anybody tried it? I've seen x01 rear derailleurs here & there for<$200


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

I tried taking out the drive side BB spacer to bring the chain line in a bit. Still no such luck. Chain still wants to climb up the GC's teeth an fall off onto the 36 when backpedaling. Obviously backpedaling is not the intended direction of function here but this shouldn't be happening. I'm now wondering if either the shorter 30t chainring allows the chain to begin engaging the GC just a bit too early or if the GC is ever so slightly tweaked. Spacing looks fine by the eyeball test. Guess I'll try taking it off and lying it on a flat surface. Anybody else running a Shimano GC with a 30t chainring successfully?


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

Thanks for the math... I'm sorry if it wasn't clear to you I'm saying my new 42T x 32T does NOT climb as good as my old 22 x 36. The difference is small. I don't really need the math to make that statement. This is my second review my previous one with pictures was very clear. Here was what I said.

"What still isn't better
13T to 11T shifting
Climbing in granny 32T x 42T vs 22T x 36T is easier but improvement is negligible 
Riding home on the pavement I get spun out"


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

I'm running a 32 with my GC and got in another 20 miles today on some very steep climbs. I did notice if I backpedal in my granny the set-up does not like that. I had to force myself to try this on the flats as I never backpedal when I'm in my granny climbing a hill. For me this is not an issue when in my normal scope of riding. I do agree it should backpedal easily, not sure why it doesn't, but I can't think if it will ever effect my ability to ride.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Within exactly 1/2 turn backpedal my chain falls off the 42 onto the 36


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

Not to get too excited but at least I'm not dealing with a one-off issue. Good to know. Are you on a 30t chainring Yody?


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## team_wee (Mar 26, 2006)

same here, just installed it yesterday. My chain line is really good but when I back pedal the chain comes off. Every thing else is perfect just happens on the 42T. I'm not to worried about it tho, it's really just a bail out gear anyway. Cant wait to try it out on the trail but it's still ski season and we've been getting lots of snow, so it'll have to wait!


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

rehammer81 said:


> not to get too excited but at least i'm not dealing with a one-off issue. Good to know. Are you on a 30t chainring yody?


36t


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

Hmmmm. So this appears to just be an issue related to the 42t cog in general. Why does this not happen to X01/XX1 on their 42t. This has nothing to do with the derailleur. Its all about chainline and the interface with the 42t cog as they engage through the backpedal. I agree. Its not a show stopper. Just an annoyance.


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

I'm running a GC with XT cassette minus the 15 & 17 + a XT 16, XT clutch mech and shifter and a 34 Wolftooth 104BCD front ring on the outer position of 2X XT cranks, granny removed obviously.

Shifting on and off the GC is perfect, unless shifting multiple gears where the chain can scrape the mech a bit near the cable attachment point.

I do have the drop down issue from the 42 to 36 on backpedal also, and no matter how I adjust it, the shifts up to 16 and 19 are very poor and usually need some half shift trigger encouragement.

But.. when I push the chain inboard slightly with a piece of steel rubbing the side of the chain, there is no drop during backpedal. So this is definitely a chain line issue. I'm going to move the bottom bracket spacer to the other side of the cranks and see if that's enough of an adjustment, failing that I will get some chain ring spacers as well.

I hope this will also improve the upshifts to 16 and 19. Ill also look at shortening the chain which might slightly improve chain wrap in the small cogs.


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

I basically have the same setup as pablobell except for a 30t Wolf Tooth chainring up front. I have already removed the drive side BB spacer and no dice. Still dropping. Can't imagine the XX1 chainline is that much different if at all. I was going to try spacing the chainring in too but then the WT ring won't nest into the spider bolt holes and there is slop in those holes where the bolts aren't centered.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

I agree if you can live with not backpedaling while climbing in granny gear then the GC is a completely viable inexpensive alternative to the pricier XX1 set-up. Admittedly XX1 is better but at a price. Much like a carbon frame is lighter and better but again at a price.


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## team_wee (Mar 26, 2006)

My chainline is as far in as I dare. If I move it more the 11T and the small gears would suffer and would be way off. I'm not convinced it's the chainline only that causing this.


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## MudBike (Oct 22, 2005)

Do the OneUp 42T cogs have the backpedaling issue, too?


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

rehammer81 said:


> Hmmmm. So this appears to just be an issue related to the 42t cog in general. Why does this not happen to X01/XX1 on their 42t. This has nothing to do with the derailleur. Its all about chainline and the interface with the 42t cog as they engage through the backpedal. I agree. Its not a show stopper. Just an annoyance.


I don't think it's chain line. XX1 has 49mm which is not unusual. I think Sram 1x went through much more testing in the lab and on the trail by many riders, comparing to the aftermarket rings. That's why they figured out a variety of issues, while the aftermarket parts focused on the obvious, like shifting, and missed everything else mentioned on this thread.

If I had to guess, backpedaling behavior is the result of the teeth shaping on the cog, which was optimized to get the chain from 36 to 42, not taking into account that such shaping can have adverse effect of helping the chain drop when you backpedal.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

That backpedalling issue is normal. I'm running 30 nrw upfront and it does the same thing. Heck it does that too when I was running my 2x10. The culprit is the chain line. And by simply playing with your BB spacers won't help. Why do you need to back pedal anyway


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## Tourendo (Jan 22, 2004)

WHALENARD said:


> I wonder if adding an x01 rear derailleur to this set up would work/improve some of the issues? Anybody tried it? I've seen x01 rear derailleurs here & there for<$200


I started a thread asking that same question, only replies I got were either "Sram says it doesn't work" and one particularly douchey "google is your friend" reply.

My guess is it probably doesn't work, but you'd think there would be at least one person who has tried it by now.

I imagine when the XTR 11 speed RD comes out , Shimano will make sure it also isn't compatible with their 10 speed stuff.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

digifun said:


> That backpedalling issue is normal. I'm running 30 nrw upfront and it does the same thing. Heck it does that too when I was running my 2x10. The culprit is the chain line. And by simply playing with your BB spacers won't help. Why do you need to back pedal anyway


I also wonder why it matters. Can anyone share a practical reason for backpedaling while on 42T while riding up a hill?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey All,
We have tested the GC vs XX1 and XO1 on several different bikes and in the combinations tested, both do the same thing. On some bikes the chain almost never falls down (GC or XX1) and on some it does after as little as 1/2 turn. It is mostly related to chainline, and the size of the chainring plays some role.

I hope this helps.
-Brendan


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

winsail said:


> I also wonder why it matters. Can anyone share a practical reason for backpedaling while on 42T while riding up a hill?


Only if I stall/dab and want to re-position my cranks in hopes of getting started again before begrudgingly walking it. Also if I need to time my cranks for clearing a rock/log and give a quick 1/4 turn back pedal. I rarely ratchet pedal in such a gear however.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

car_nut said:


> Only if I stall/dab and want to re-position my cranks in hopes of getting started again before begrudgingly walking it. Also if I need to time my cranks for clearing a rock/log and give a quick 1/4 turn back pedal. I rarely ratchet pedal in such a gear however.


Yup


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Its a worthy upgrade for me, I'd recommend it to friends, but with a fair warning of the compromises you're creating. If you are on more of a xc/trail bike with a nice 2x10 setup I wouldn't recommend it. But for All Mountain bikes already with a single ring, looking for that extra cadence for climbs to avoid the dreaded slog slow cadence back killing grind its awesome. Also nice to be able to have the bigger front ring so for every DH I'm not grabbing like 6+ downshifts to get into a suitable gear. 

Just don't think you're gonna get XX1 performance for a fraction of the price. It takes a dedicated system to be able to cope with such a big rear gear, and I don't think Sram could even made it perfect.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

WolfTooth said:


> Hey All,
> We have tested the GC vs XX1 and XO1 on several different bikes and in the combinations tested, both do the same thing. On some bikes the chain almost never falls down (GC or XX1) and on some it does after as little as 1/2 turn. It is mostly related to chainline, and the size of the chainring plays some role.
> 
> I hope this helps.
> -Brendan


Weird, havne't heard of peoples XX1 falling off during back pedaling, but I have heard that they don't run super smooth, like a smaller cassette. I think its just mechanics, there is no such thing as having a perfect 10/11 speed setup with a 42T cog out back without extra chainline angles, roughness, and wear. Even with the XX1 being designed from scratch they couldn't pull of a perfect system. Which is why I think Shimano didn't come out with something like that and why they did the 40T and not the 42T for the 2015 XTR 11 speed. They are unwilling to offer a product with such compromises. Everyones saying Shimano dropped the ball but I can see why they did not do it.


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

Being able to backpedal in the 42t is not a show stopper as I said. There are a few potential uses for it as mentioned. Mostly just knit picking as I tried to set my system up the best I could. Thanks for everyone's feedback. At first I hadn't heard much mention of the issue so wanted to verify I wasn't a one-off case because I'm a craptastic wrench.


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

Got my GC setup tonight. Best I can say is it works but nothing to write home about. Works excellent in the upper gears including the GC so this review is not to reflect poorly on Wolf Tooth's product. It does what it is intended quite well. Gives you a 42t granny. Unfortunately the adjustments you have to make to the b-limit have very negative effects on the shifting at the lower end. Pretty crappy. I will keep tinkering with it and give it some time on the trail but I will probably be saving some cash for an XO1 rear end. Love my Wolf Tooth chainring though.


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## MorsecodeNiner (May 29, 2013)

rehammer81 said:


> Looking for other peoples experience and thoughts here.
> 
> My setup:
> 
> ...


I solve the back pedal issue by putting spacers between the XT spider and race face 30T ring. This setup push the ring towards the bottom bracket making a good chain line.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

MorsecodeNiner said:


> I solve the back pedal issue by putting spacers between the XT spider and race face 30T ring. This setup push the ring towards the bottom bracket making a good chain line.


Does this affect shifting in the smaller cogs?


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## MorsecodeNiner (May 29, 2013)

CrozCountry said:


> Does this affect shifting in the smaller cogs?


Shifting works fine to all cogs. I used the chain bolt spacers that came from my old sram crankset. Here is my set up, niner rip9, xt RD Shadow GS, XTR cassette, xt crank with race face 30T.


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## ScottW (Jan 16, 2004)

FWIW I can back pedal with no issues using the One Up 42 tooth, Race Face N/W 30 tooth, SRAM x9 type 2 and KMC chain. Shifting up and down through the cassette is good. I can feel a little hesitation from 15 to 19 but not a problem.


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## rsolti13 (Apr 23, 2012)

I had the GL and switched to the OneUP 42. I like the OneUp MUCH better. Shifts soooo much smoother, feels like the OneUp is part of the original cog where the GL took extra effort to go from the 1070 to the GL


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

rsolti13 said:


> I had the GL and switched to the OneUP 42. I like the OneUp MUCH better. Shifts soooo much smoother, feels like the OneUp is part of the original cog where the GL took extra effort to go from the 1070 to the GL


I had the GC and I thought the shifting in and out of it was awesome, it was the rest of the system that I felt was lacking.


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## xhailofgunfirex (Jun 25, 2008)

I'm one of those people who jumped on the 40t GL when it came out, it works and there was no other option at the time, but shifting it leaves a lot to be desired. For my needs I wish there was a GC or OneUp in 40t, this would be the best solution for me at least.



rsolti13 said:


> I had the GL and switched to the OneUP 42. I like the OneUp MUCH better. Shifts soooo much smoother, feels like the OneUp is part of the original cog where the GL took extra effort to go from the 1070 to the GL


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## team_wee (Mar 26, 2006)

anyone measure their chainline? mine looks like it's around 44mm. It's definitely big ring bias.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

Now that I know there might be a use for backpedaling in granny gear I tried it while riding and I can get 4 full rotations before it drops to the 36 from the 42. Weird but should allow me to make any maneuver necessary. Rest of shifting is great


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

rehammer81 said:


> Got my GC setup tonight. Best I can say is it works but nothing to write home about. Works excellent in the upper gears including the GC so this review is not to reflect poorly on Wolf Tooth's product. It does what it is intended quite well. Gives you a 42t granny. Unfortunately the adjustments you have to make to the b-limit have very negative effects on the shifting at the lower end. Pretty crappy. I will keep tinkering with it and give it some time on the trail but I will probably be saving some cash for an XO1 rear end. Love my Wolf Tooth chainring though.


Not trying dissuade from the GC or GL products, but anyone on here have good luck with the 39t cogs from ActionTec(sp?)?. Haven't done any mods on my stuff yet but keep thinking I could get by on all the trails I hit with that cog size as my 1x granny gear. Seems like an easier transition from a 34-36t cassette setup given the extreme 'B' screw adjusting and shifting issues that are posted out there with the 42t setups.

Thanks in advance.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

rehammer81 said:


> Got my GC setup tonight. Best I can say is it works but nothing to write home about. Works excellent in the upper gears including the GC so this review is not to reflect poorly on Wolf Tooth's product. It does what it is intended quite well. Gives you a 42t granny. Unfortunately the adjustments you have to make to the b-limit have very negative effects on the shifting at the lower end. Pretty crappy. I will keep tinkering with it and give it some time on the trail but I will probably be saving some cash for an XO1 rear end. Love my Wolf Tooth chainring though.


Have you done any riding on your new set-up?


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

winsail said:


> Have you done any riding on your new set-up?


Nothing significant yet. Just up and down the street and along the bank of a wash by my house to see how it shifts. Grad school and work whooping my arse. Hope to get a solid ride this weekend. Weather has been amazing here. It's killing me not being able to get out on the trails. I'm expecting it to work great as long as I don't have to spend much time in the 11, 13, 16 cogs. Shifting up out of those gears is garbage in my brief testing.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I would play with the chain line if at all possible. I have no drop issues back pedaling in the 42. I do get the occasional clunk in the front chain ring while in the 13T.

IMO...shifting in the smaller cogs is not "that bad" once you get used to it. I make sure I hold the shifter a bit longer than I used to...to make sure the shifter is engaged fully. The chain will move up with no issues. If I'm really on it and shift from the 15 to 19...I'll get a crunch if I try to shift quick.

For me its worth the compromise to not run a front derailleur.

The other thing regarding using a 40t. I don't think I want to go smaller than a 42 in the back. I use a 30T in the front. On long or hilly rides i would not want to be grinding up a hill for any significant amount of time. At times I'll be spending 30-40 minutes on a climb. Its one thing to slow grind up climbs on your own...but when riding in a group when you have to maintain pace...slow grinding up a climb is usually not an option...if you don't want to get dropped.


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

I have already moved the 2.5mm spacer from the drive side BB to the non-drive side. The way the Wolf Tooth front ring nests into the spider bolt holes I don't know how I could use any spacers to move it in more.


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

My WT 42T cog showed up tonight. Awaiting the build of my warranty frame, so probably not building until this weekend, at the earliest. Also... it's Feb in Colorado and I have a new fatbike in the garage, so the AM and XC bikes are unfortunately playing 2nd fiddle. (Although it was in the mid 50's today in Denver)


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Just installed my 42t WT SRAM GC. FWIW, I can backpedal endlessly without it slipping onto the 36t. My chain line is good, though, with a 32t WT GXP DM.


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## PretendGentleman (May 24, 2011)

I only read around half the thread, but thinking real hard about replacing my worn drivetrain with a 30 or 32 up front and adding a 42 to the rear. 

Has anyone tried putting a washer between the rear Der bolt and the hanger? moving it out a tiny bit seems like the 42t setup would require less b-screw. It seems like 1 or 2 mm of washer would be worth easing off the b screw a bit.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

PretendGentleman said:


> I only read around half the thread, but thinking real hard about replacing my worn drivetrain with a 30 or 32 up front and adding a 42 to the rear.
> 
> Has anyone tried putting a washer between the rear Der bolt and the hanger? moving it out a tiny bit seems like the 42t setup would require less b-screw. It seems like 1 or 2 mm of washer would be worth easing off the b screw a bit.


Thats an interesting idea.

Sent from my LG-LS995 using Tapatalk


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

I've had the wolf tooth GC a couple of weeks now. Used it for over 100miles riding around Moab, Tucson, and Sedona. Running it with XT med cage, XT cassette, and 34 n/w ring. It's not bad and it's not great. Shifting is so-so. Lower gears are good, higher gears not so much. I've got the b limit as close as possible, but it's not shift and forget. I've tried it with both the 17 and 15 swapped. Less shift lag if you do the 17 as recommended. I've also found that depending on the trail, I really miss the lost cog. Fast, rolling terrain I consistently find one gear is too low and the other is too high. Cadence change is too drastic. Couple that with the lag in shifting and it makes holding momentum more challenging. Also found increased drivetrain noise when grinding away. 

Bottom line? I do really like having the gear, but it's a band-aid. Or an introductory drug. For trail riding or training use it is functional. Performance or race use it gives up too much. Having the gear does now make me consider jumping to Sram's system. I really wish this was better. Maybe 40 would make a difference. 

Oh and n/w isn't for me. Decided to take my guide off and first rough trail, chain was off. Love me my AMg!


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

I really think this magnifies the importance of a decent chainline. People seem to think just slapping on a 104BCD ring (where you're outermost ring used to sit) is a good idea, then they lament lots of noise and/or poor shifting. 

That, and not all NW ring are equal. Give me a tall tooth profile and a good chainline, and I've had two freakish drops in 700 miles on some of the roughest stuff SoCal has to offer.


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

Should say I'm using a 3 ring XT crank with ring in the middle position, not a double on the outside. Noise from drivetrain has been increasing in only the GC as it's had more use. I've taken the GC off, made the adjustments to b limit and cable tension and the shifting is crisp and without noise. I've had none of the issues with chain dropping down with back pedaling. 

Chain line shouldn't be an issue in the middle of the cassette.


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

kragu said:


> I really think this magnifies the importance of a decent chainline. People seem to think just slapping on a 104BCD ring (where you're outermost ring used to sit) is a good idea, then they lament lots of noise and/or poor shifting.


Suggesting starting with a 3x crank is the best? (With the N/W chain ring running in the middle 104BCD position?)


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

Oh, and does anyone know if a 9spd 16T cog will work on a 10spd cassette?


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## xhailofgunfirex (Jun 25, 2008)

hokiebrett said:


> Suggesting starting with a 3x crank is the best? (With the N/W chain ring running in the middle 104BCD position?)


XX1 Chainline is 49mm, you should adjust your chainline to not be more than 49-50mm. Seems like SRAM GXP direct mount is the best crank to start with.


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

I have an XT 16t in a place of the 15t. For me shifting up 11-13-16-19 is horrible. All other shifts are great. My chainline can't be that bad. Running a N/W on an XT triple in the middle position with the driveside bb spacer moved to the non-drive side so my chainline is an additional 2.5mm inboard of the normal middle ring position. I think the lack of chain wrap on the smaller cogs due to the b-limit adjustment simply doesn't let the chain grab that next gear up and get pulled up on to the next gear. The chain is trying to catch and climb up onto the next cog at the rear top of the next cog instead of from the lower rear like normal.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

hokiebrett said:


> Oh, and does anyone know if a 9spd 16T cog will work on a 10spd cassette?


Yep. The individual cogs are the same thickness, it's the spacers that are thicker on a 9 speed. I'm running a 16t from a 9 speed cassette in place of the 15/17.

Really wish I knew why all y'all are having such bad results. I loved my homemade 42t and my GC is even smoother around the neighborhood. Who is running a SRAM mech and having issues?


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

jselwyn said:


> Chain line shouldn't be an issue in the middle of the cassette.


Chainline is essentially fixed at the cassette, middle of the casette is optimal.

If someone is running a bunch of drive-side BB spacers or a chainguide, and as a result their chainline sucks, the shifting is going to suck in all cogs. Partially just because adjustments will be made to get the shifting to work on the high or low ends of the cassette, and those adjustments affect all cogs.

Not specific to your post, but people reviewing their shifting performance with the big cog (or any mods) should include their entire drivetrain specs. I certainly wouldn't expect a 42t cog to work well with a 2x/3x 10-speed drivetrain, or a chainguide, personally.

Just my .02c


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## westeast (Nov 27, 2010)

I just installed my GC on a nomad, xt cassette, xtr shifter, slx shadow + rear derailleur, raceface atlas 3x cranks with raceface 30t nw ring. After reading all these posts I had a good idea of what was going to happen and yup, my experience was pretty much the same as others. It works, but shifting is medicore at best. Actually it's kind of bad. I can get it to downshift pretty well and then basically each upshift requires 1 plus second push halfway to the next gear for it to catch well. I can see that getting really anoying on the trail. I'd really like this to work and I'll give it a go on the trail, but I'm already thinking of selling this and going back to 2x10.

If sram can ever get a 1x setup to about half the cost of the current options I may go that route. Too bad it looks like shimano didn't come out with an 11-40 or 11-42 10 speed cassette and rear derailluer that would work with current shifters, chains & freehubs.


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## westeast (Nov 27, 2010)

kragu said:


> Really wish I knew why all y'all are having such bad results. I loved my homemade 42t and my GC is even smoother around the neighborhood. Who is running a SRAM mech and having issues?


I haven't gone through and tally'd the results, but it does seem like it is the shimano mech's that are not working the best.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

*My Shimano XT set-up working fine*



westeast said:


> I haven't gone through and tally'd the results, but it does seem like it is the shimano mech's that are not working the best.


I rode again today and have over 100 miles on my set-up. It just seems to get better and shift smoothly with my all shimano set-up 42T x 32T. Didn't do anything fancy just cleaned everything and installed it. I have spent a few moments every ride tweaking things slightly. Hope more people get their set -up out on the trail for some real world testing. Maybe my old 3x10 set-up just sucked but I'm not detecting any significant difference except when the chain drops from 42T to 36T in the rear. Honestly not a big deal at all when riding.


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## xhailofgunfirex (Jun 25, 2008)

westeast said:


> I just installed my GC on a nomad, xt cassette, xtr shifter, slx shadow + rear derailleur, raceface atlas 3x cranks with raceface 30t nw ring. After reading all these posts I had a good idea of what was going to happen and yup, my experience was pretty much the same as others. It works, but shifting is medicore at best. Actually it's kind of bad. I can get it to downshift pretty well and then basically each upshift requires 1 plus second push halfway to the next gear for it to catch well. I can see that getting really anoying on the trail. I'd really like this to work and I'll give it a go on the trail, but I'm already thinking of selling this and going back to 2x10.
> 
> If sram can ever get a 1x setup to about half the cost of the current options I may go that route. Too bad it looks like shimano didn't come out with an 11-40 or 11-42 10 speed cassette and rear derailluer that would work with current shifters, chains & freehubs.


If I was to start all over again with my drivetrain choices I would have bought the Canfield micro drive hub and a 28 tooth front chainring and a zee derailleur and I'd stoked right now. My blur lt I did the General Lee 40tooth on with a 30t front. I'm so used to the 1x10 and clean setup with the reverb remote that it drives me a little nuts when I ride my Nomad with 2x10.


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

FastBanana said:


> Has anyone tried putting a washer between the rear Der bolt and the hanger? moving it out a tiny bit seems like the 42t setup would require less b-screw. It seems like 1 or 2 mm of washer would be worth easing off the b screw a bit.
> 
> Thats an interesting idea.
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS995 using Tapatalk


I just saw this comment as I was about to post it.

It worked for my SB66c. I had clearance issues with the cable connection point hitting the cog even at full b-tension.

I've spaced out the rd a few mm and now it all works quite well.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

xhailofgunfirex said:


> If I was to start all over again with my drivetrain choices I would have bought the Canfield micro drive hub and a 28 tooth front chainring and a zee derailleur and I'd stoked right now. My blur lt I did the General Lee 40tooth on with a 30t front. I'm so used to the 1x10 and clean setup with the reverb remote that it drives me a little nuts when I ride my Nomad with 2x10.


So if the General Lee worked on your Blur LT why not use the same on your Nomad?


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

kragu said:


> That, and not all NW ring are equal. Give me a tall tooth profile and a good chainline, and I've had two freakish drops in 700 miles on some of the roughest stuff SoCal has to offer.


That's why I held off the RaceFace NW ring, the tooth profile seems not as tall as XX1 or Wolf Tooth. I read about dropped chains more than any of the other NW rings, but that may be because its the most popular.

Personally I am still on a standard ring (NSB direct mount) and upper guide.


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

Nm


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

Got mine today, SWEET JESUS! This thing is HUGE!


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Triaxtremec said:


> Got mine today, SWEET JESUS! This thing is HUGE!


Giant, you might say.


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

kragu said:


> Yep. The individual cogs are the same thickness, it's the spacers that are thicker on a 9 speed. I'm running a 16t from a 9 speed cassette in place of the 15/17.
> 
> Really wish I knew why all y'all are having such bad results. I loved my homemade 42t and my GC is even smoother around the neighborhood. Who is running a SRAM mech and having issues?


Aw crap. I just looked and the spare 16T cog I have is for a Shimano cassette... And I've got full SRAM. oh well


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

hokiebrett said:


> Aw crap. I just looked and the spare 16T cog I have is for a Shimano cassette... And I've got full SRAM. oh well


I'm pretty sure the 16t I'm running is Shimano, too. Everything else on my DT is SRAM. It's not perfect, but it's better than going from 19-15 - the tooth profile isn't optimized for shifts between those two anyway.


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

kragu said:


> I'm pretty sure the 16t I'm running is Shimano, too. Everything else on my DT is SRAM. It's not perfect, but it's better than going from 19-15 - the tooth profile isn't optimized for shifts between those two anyway.


Shimano 16T will fit on a SRAM cassette? now that's freaky!


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## Shepherd Wong (Apr 24, 2005)

I just backpedaled the crap out of my one up with a raceface 30 nw chainring and it didn't budge off the 42.


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

Shepherd Wong said:


> I just backpedaled the crap out of my one up with a raceface 30 nw chainring and it didn't budge off the 42.


Same here.


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## pwe312 (Dec 18, 2013)

Just got the Wolftooth on what I think is a short cage x9 type 2. It measures 80mm center to center or 120mm end to end. Also running Wolftooth 30t up front.

Shifts fine in between but a little rough coming off the 42t onto the 36. It comes down but has some rub on the 36. Another downshift quiets it and it'll stay on the 36 so it's off one gear coming down. But going up from 11 to 42 seems fine. Sometimes I have to hold the upshift trigger onto the 42t. I didn't use the longer b screw and just wound down the stock one completely. All this was done on my street so no real trail testing yet. Will see how it does this weekend and maybe try the longer screw. Might not bother me too much. My old 2x10 reign with x5/x7 used to act the same way.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

pwe312 said:


> Just got the Wolftooth on what I think is a short cage x9 type 2. It measures 80mm center to center or 120mm end to end. Also running Wolftooth 30t up front.
> 
> Shifts fine in between but a little rough coming off the 42t onto the 36. It comes down but has some rub on the 36. Another downshift quiets it and it'll stay on the 36 so it's off one gear coming down. But going up from 11 to 42 seems fine. Sometimes I have to hold the upshift trigger onto the 42t. I didn't use the longer b screw and just wound down the stock one completely. All this was done on my street so no real trail testing yet. Will see how it does this weekend and maybe try the longer screw. Might not bother me too much. My old 2x10 reign with x5/x7 used to act the same way.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


Looks like you have a little more to go on that b limit.


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## pwe312 (Dec 18, 2013)

U mean I should toss on the longer b screw to get some more clearance? 

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

kragu said:


> Looks like you have a little more to go on that b limit.


Yikes!


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

80mm cage should be medium, good for you, it will work better than short. Looks like you have good clearance on the B limit screw, seems less of a problem with sram.


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## pwe312 (Dec 18, 2013)

CrozCountry said:


> 80mm cage should be medium, good for you, it will work better than short. Looks like you have good clearance on the B limit screw, seems less of a problem with sram.


Sweet! I'll wait til I get on the trail to do anymore adjustments. I've found that fine tuning on a bike stand is usually a waste of time lol.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

pwe312 said:


> U mean I should toss on the longer b screw to get some more clearance?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


You should toss the longer screw to get the top jockey wheel a little bit closer to the GC. It'll make a difference in your smaller cogs.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

JMac47 said:


> Yikes!


Hm?


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## pwe312 (Dec 18, 2013)

kragu said:


> You should toss the longer screw to get the top jockey wheel a little bit closer to the GC. It'll make a difference in your smaller cogs.


Smaller cogs are actually fine right now. But I'll try it if it gives me issues on the trail. Thanks!

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

I don't understand why my 11-19 up shifting is so crappy since other people seem to be getting acceptable performance. Mine sucks.


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## PretendGentleman (May 24, 2011)

rehammer81 said:


> I don't understand why my 11-19 up shifting is so crappy since other people seem to be getting acceptable performance. Mine sucks.


have you tried backing off on the b-screw? It might be worth having a noisy shift to the 42 in order to get more precision around the 11. As long as the pulley isn't rubbing the 42 while pedaling, I think you won't experience much additional wear. 
You could also try a mm or two of washers under the rder mount bolt in conjunction with backing off the b screw to see if that helps. Also make sure your hanger is parallel to your wheel.

I'm still on the fence about the 42. My drivetrain is getting worn and I will be buying new stuff soon. 95% of my riding (a jump from 85% since having a baby 3 months ago) is on piedmont terrain, so a 32x36 is all I need. To me this suggests I just get a narrowwide 32 and a regular 11-36 cassette. But once in a while I go to the mountains where I need a granny. Rather than switching cranks/rings and bolting back on a shifter and fder, I might be able to get away with a 30t up front and a 42 in the back for 5+ mile climbs. I'm just not sure it's worth it, since I'd be spending more money and still not have as low of a gear as with a granny. Also the 30t up front would wear my drivetrain a bit faster. I've already had problems breaking quick links, freehubs, and folding my sram cassette while riding a 32 front ring all the time, so presumeably these would be a bit worse with a 30t. Hearing the shifting problems with a 42t cog makes me lean more towards bolting on a granny gear and conventional middle ring and using the 36-11 cassette.


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

Not sure if I can back the b-limit out much more. I was having trouble shifting up and down to/from the 42t because the chain was actually getting bound up between the upper pulley and cog teeth as the chain climbed up/down on them before it meshes down on the teeth. If that makes sense. I needed a bit more room from the b-limit so the chain could climb up over the teeth and then settle in place.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

*Shimano XT Shadow Plus RD-M786 Rear Derailleur*

Well, in the 35mins from when I received the email 'til i clicked the link they were sold out.... 

On the plus side, I installed the Shadow Plus Long Cage and it works great on up/down rocky trails with a lot of shifting, NO dropped chains & real quiet with no chain slap. (Browns to NY Creek for you locals)

Oh yeah, another plus in the no dropped chains department, on closer inspection, my 34T chain ring is a standard RaceFace ring, *not a Narrow/Wide.*

11x36 with the 34T is fine for Auburn/Folsom area trails, hopefully WT gets production sorted out before Tahoe thaws....



patski said:


> I just ordered a XT Shadow plus from Amazon, through CC I believe, $60! Nice....
> 
> Robbed the N/W Race Face 34T off my single speed, now Wolftooth needs to get the 42Ts back in stock....





Mr.Quint said:


> I got my shimano cog yesterday. It only took about a week. It's really big. I guess that makes sense, but it caught me off guard.
> 
> I've got an XT shadow plus RD, and these suggestions about the b screw are super helpful. Thanks folks.


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

patski said:


> Well, in the 35mins from when I received the email 'til i clicked the link they were sold out....
> 
> On the plus side, I installed the Shadow Plus Long Cage and it works great on up/down rocky trails with a lot of shifting, NO dropped chains & real quiet with no chain slap. (Browns to NY Creek for you locals)
> 
> ...


I have a sram still in the wrapper if you want it for what I paid. I decided I'm going to stick with 2x10.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

kragu said:


> Hm?


Thought you were commenting on the length of the B screw. Granted I haven't seen the longer one in a pic before that OneUp(Wolf??) includes with their cog.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

Like I said before not sure why I want to backpedal while in granny but I'll see if I can make mine work like yours. Here's to backpedaling!


da peach said:


> Same here.


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## In2falling (Jan 1, 2005)

PretendGentleman said:


> have you tried backing off on the b-screw? It might be worth having a noisy shift to the 42 in order to get more precision around the 11. As long as the pulley isn't rubbing the 42 while pedaling, I think you won't experience much additional wear.
> You could also try a mm or two of washers under the rder mount bolt in conjunction with backing off the b screw to see if that helps. Also make sure your hanger is parallel to your wheel.
> 
> I'm still on the fence about the 42. My drivetrain is getting worn and I will be buying new stuff soon. 95% of my riding (a jump from 85% since having a baby 3 months ago) is on piedmont terrain, so a 32x36 is all I need. To me this suggests I just get a narrowwide 32 and a regular 11-36 cassette. But once in a while I go to the mountains where I need a granny. Rather than switching cranks/rings and bolting back on a shifter and fder, I might be able to get away with a 30t up front and a 42 in the back for 5+ mile climbs. I'm just not sure it's worth it, since I'd be spending more money and still not have as low of a gear as with a granny. Also the 30t up front would wear my drivetrain a bit faster. I've already had problems breaking quick links, freehubs, and folding my sram cassette while riding a 32 front ring all the time, so presumeably these would be a bit worse with a 30t. Hearing the shifting problems with a 42t cog makes me lean more towards bolting on a granny gear and conventional middle ring and using the 36-11 cassette.


I am holding off on these 42 add-ons also and going to see how everyone gets along with them. I got burned on the GL adapter and could not get acceptable shifting with it.

I currently run a 1x10 with a 11-36 on both of my bikes, a 30 up front on my 29er and 32 on 26. Both with clutch derailleurs with a bashwich on the 26 and a MPR top guide on the 29er, with no chain drops and it's very quiet. I love the simplicity of the 1x setup and will never go back to a front derailleur.

I would love to add a bailout 42 for steeps or long steep climbs. Looking at the charts (GC42 â€" wolftoothcomponents.com) adding the 42 on the rear bumping up the front to 32 and 34 would make things about 10% easier over just 36 in the back.

In the mean time I am going to try and loose the 20lbs (10%) of extra weight I am lugging around, which will be like adding a 40t to the back .


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## madog99 (Jun 5, 2009)

After reading all these threads, I found a WT GC (Shimano) on ebay so bought it to try. Last season I was running an XX1 front (32T) with an 11-36 cassette. I like the simplicity and weight savings of the 1X setup but really wanted to up the front chainring to something a little bigger (I was pretty much at the limit at 32). I don't know why exactly but pedaling with smaller front chainrings just seems more difficult. This WT solution looked interesting so why not give it try? 

I installed the WT 42T with an XTR rear cassette with the 17T+spacer removed. Results are better than expected after my research here. I put a 34T up front and resized the chain. shifting is excellent (not really any noticeable difference from normal). Shifting thru the 15-19 cogs is smooth and crisp. The 17 is apparently fly-over territory for me anyway so no trouble whatsoever. I tried both a KMC 10-speed chain and an XX1 11-speed chain. The XX1 chain totally good while the KMC is slighty soft going from 15-19 (not really a problem though). The XX1 chain also stays on the 42T while backpedalling for about 3-4 turns. It comes off immediately with the 10 speed chain.

Setup:

Bike - Lenz Leviathan 4.0
Front Crank - Cannondale Hollogram with XX1 spider and 34T chainring
Chain - XX1 11-speed
Cassette - XTR 11-36 with 17T and spacer removed
Rear D - Sram X.0 medium cage, type 2.
Shifter - Sram X.0 grip

pics:


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## gbug (Jul 20, 2010)

madog99 said:


> After reading all these threads, I found a WT GC (Shimano) on ebay so bought it to try. Last season I was running an XX1 front (32T) with an 11-36 cassette. I like the simplicity and weight savings of the 1X setup but really wanted to up the front chainring to something a little bigger (I was pretty much at the limit at 32). I don't know why exactly but pedaling with smaller front chainrings just seems more difficult. This WT solution looked interesting so why not give it try?
> 
> I installed the WT 42T with an XTR rear cassette with the 17T+spacer removed. Results are better than expected after my research here. I put a 34T up front and resized the chain. shifting is excellent (not really any noticeable difference from normal). Shifting thru the 15-19 cogs is smooth and crisp. The 17 is apparently fly-over territory for me anyway so no trouble whatsoever. I tried both a KMC 10-speed chain and an XX1 11-speed chain. The XX1 chain totally good while the KMC is slighty soft going from 15-19 (not really a problem though). The XX1 chain also stays on the 42T while backpedalling for about 3-4 turns. It comes off immediately with the 10 speed chain.


You bring up a good point about the impact of which chain you are using, had not thought of that. Can anyone comment how their shifting is with a GC and 10spd XTR chain? Mine sucks right now from 11-19t, but I am going to adjust the B-screw tension. As someone on here suggested, it might be better to have a slightly noisy 36-42t shift if the 11-19t shifting is improved.


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

Test ride in progress.

So far so good.

Slightly hesitant going down into talker gears, but quick shifting up into the spinny gears. I can accept that for the stealthy quiet descents.


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## clarkrw3 (Feb 21, 2011)

Just placed an order with Wolftooth this morning for the SRAM 42t they just got the red ones back in stock. It's going on a 32 RF narrow wide front X9 cassette and X9 rear.


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

First real ride on proper trails today. 19-42 work great. Love it. 11-16 still suck ass. I think I may try taking that 16t I put in back out and put the 15t back in. People seem to be reporting ok shifting in the smaller cogs when they have the 15t in. I didn't think the an XT 16t would be an issue but maybe it is.


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## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

Put on the WT GC tonight.

Set up is a Tallboy LTc with XT cassette, SLX clutch RD, and 30t race face n/w chainring.

It shifts fine in the stand, and not terribly clunky. It falls off the 42 cog when pedaling backwards for about about a half rotation.

But I can't get outside and test it for a while, so real world testing will have to wait. I also think I need to add some more links.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I set up my WT Sram cog wednesday. Had to add one set of links and reset my derailuer. I'm using a Sram x9 type 2 and had no issue's with it. I havent trail rode with it yet but I did ride it some and it worked perfect.


After riding a 11-36/30t combo for so long it feel's WAY to easy to pedal. Next purchase will be a 32t or 34T ring probly!


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Loving to see everyone running reasonable size front chainrings! 32+ only way to go.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Yody said:


> Loving to see everyone running reasonable size front chainrings! 32+ only way to go.


Remind that this is different between 26 and 29,

32T + 26" = 29T + 29"


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## NJbikeSNOB (Jan 23, 2014)

ive been super pumped about these 42's. but after reading this thread im gonna wait for absolute black to come out with their 40t cog. think it will big enough but being 2 teeth smaller is going to put wayyyyy less strain on the RD. from whats being tossed aroud the b screw needs not be adjusted very much. which will in theory make shifting through the rest of the cassette much crisper,closer to how it was without a big cog. and chain wrap on the lower cogs shouldnt be a concern. thats all paper though so i just have to wait and see, but looks promising.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

CrozCountry said:


> Remind that this is different between 26 and 29,
> 
> 32T + 26" = 29T + 29"


meh


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

NJbikeSNOB said:


> ive been super pumped about these 42's. but after reading this thread im gonna wait for absolute black to come out with their 40t cog. think it will big enough but being 2 teeth smaller is going to put wayyyyy less strain on the RD. from whats being tossed aroud the b screw needs not be adjusted very much. which will in theory make shifting through the rest of the cassette much crisper,closer to how it was without a big cog. and chain wrap on the lower cogs shouldnt be a concern. thats all paper though so i just have to wait and see, but looks promising.


The shifting is not a deal breaker, especially when the climbs get steep, and you click into that 42T and can actually get a decent spin going. All worth it


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## gbug (Jul 20, 2010)

Alright armchair mechanics, I need your help. I for the life of me cannot get my drivetrain to shift reliably down from the 13t to the 11t cog. I can get it to shift with only a slight hesitation in the work stand, but as soon as I take the bike for a test spin, the shift is non existent, or only happens after 5 to 10 seconds. Fiddling with cable tension does not fix the problem.

Setup:

WT DM GXP 32t chainring
GXP XO1 cranks
XTR chain
XT shifter
XT cassette with WT 42t cog and 17t removed
XT GS medium cage clutch RD

If I dial in the b screw so that upper pulley barely clears the 42t, shifting is improved in the smaller cogs, but I still can't drop down into the 11t. I swapped both the derailleur hanger and rear derailleur to see if either of those is the culprit, no dice. I'm actually happy with how the 13t to 42t shifts, but this setup isn't going to work if I can't reliably get into the 11t.

Could this be a chainline issue? I tried removing the drive side bottom bracket spacer, as well as keeping it and adding a second BB spacer to the non drive side, no luck.

Any suggestions? I'm about to pull my hair out.


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## deofour (Apr 6, 2008)

One up 42 in black for sale. Never been mounted.


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## NJbikeSNOB (Jan 23, 2014)

Yody said:


> The shifting is not a deal breaker, especially when the climbs get steep, and you click into that 42T and can actually get a decent spin going. All worth it


hmm. i might have to give it a shot. do you think there is going to be that big of a difference between the 2 sizes? i wonder how much more climbing ability the 42t would give compared to the 40. im looking to drop the 11t instead of the 17. i know i know but i have a new xt cassette and cant drop the 17t. so maybe since im dropping the 11t, i can get away with running a bigger chainring say a 34t (im on a 26") but the the extra 2 teeth on the 42 would be even more appreciated.


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## deofour (Apr 6, 2008)

New One Up 42 Tooth Like Wolf Tooth CG 42T Cog XX1 XO1 Shimano | eBay


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## ctopher63 (Aug 7, 2011)

I have been running a 40T GL on my Burner for a few months and just put a 42T oneup (with 8 speed 16T added to XT cassette, also XT chain) on my sigfig's Mach 5.7. The 5.7 was shifting fine when setup as 2x10 but after going to the oneup I had to change the derailleur hanger and the derailleur (Sram T2). I tied different combinations of parts and this is what worked the best. I seems there was just enough tweet in the hanger and play in the derailleur to make shifting poor. It would either not up shift from 8 to 7 or it should skip 2 and go from 3 to 1 depending on how thing were adjusted. 
With either setup it back peddled fine in 1st. It has a direct mount WT GXP chain ring on a BB30 crank. 
I'll be interested in how the "system" behaves as the drive train gets normal wear and tear. It may be that it is less tolerant of play.
The I like the 40T on the GL but the 3-4 shifting is not that great. I'll try a 40T oneup / WT style single when they come out. I think 40T may play a lot nicer with the the existing 10sp derailleurs.


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## Pilsner1 (Mar 17, 2011)

gbug said:


> Alright armchair mechanics, I need your help. I for the life of me cannot get my drivetrain to shift reliably down from the 13t to the 11t cog. I can get it to shift with only a slight hesitation in the work stand, but as soon as I take the bike for a test spin, the shift is non existent, or only happens after 5 to 10 seconds. Fiddling with cable tension does not fix the problem.
> 
> Setup:
> 
> ...


Is there ant tension on the cable when you are shifted into the 11T? May be the housing/cable is sticky. Try some lube to see if that helps, may need new cable/housing.


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## gbug (Jul 20, 2010)

Pilsner1 said:


> Is there ant tension on the cable when you are shifted into the 11T? May be the housing/cable is sticky. Try some lube to see if that helps, may need new cable/housing.


Unfortunately, cable and housing is brand new.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Hope 40T...










Frostbike: Hope Gives Your Cassette Big Teeth with the 40 T-Rex Adapter


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## NJbikeSNOB (Jan 23, 2014)

RS VR6 said:


> Hope 40T...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


excellent, thats two 40t cogs on the way


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

gbug said:


> Alright armchair mechanics, I need your help. I for the life of me cannot get my drivetrain to shift reliably down from the 13t to the 11t cog.
> Any suggestions? I'm about to pull my hair out.


I'd look at these things first:
backing the corresponding limit screw out on your rear der.
chaln length could be too long


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

RS VR6 said:


> Hope 40T...
> 
> Frostbike: Hope Gives Your Cassette Big Teeth with the 40 T-Rex Adapter


Looks like a better option for shimano users. Got me thinking maybe the wolf tooth shimano cog should be 40T and the sram 42T.

What would also be nice is if WT and Hope make 16T shimano/sram cogs for a complete sleek kit.

If those cogs existed before I built my bike I would probably not replace the XO kit with XT.


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## gbug (Jul 20, 2010)

FM said:


> I'd look at these things first:
> backing the corresponding limit screw out on your rear der.
> chaln length could be too long


Thanks, but chainwrap doesn't seem to be the issue as I've got the chain as short as I can go and there is adequate chain tension when in the 11t cog. And if I back out the limit screw even a quarter turn it overshifts the 11t.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

RS VR6 said:


> Hope 40T...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice. That's what I'm talking about!


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Yody said:


> meh


Heh, nice jab!


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

JMac47 said:


> Heh, nice jab!


hmph


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## pwe312 (Dec 18, 2013)

Finally got it on the trail. Backed out the B screw and got about 1/4" left. Everything shifts fine and can get into all gears. 

Ibis mojo hd
Sram x9 type 2, 1x10 medium cage
Pg1070 cassette and chain
Wolftooth 30t
Wolftooth GC 42t

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

gbug said:


> Alright armchair mechanics, I need your help. I for the life of me cannot get my drivetrain to shift reliably down from the 13t to the 11t cog.
> 
> Any suggestions? I'm about to pull my hair out.


The most obvious (and likely) suspect would be cable/housing. You can quickly check to see if that's the case by unhooking the rear shift cable and see how easily it drops into the 11t without the cable hindering it. While turning the cranks push the derailleur parallelogram so it shifts into a bigger cog and let go, if the limit screw is right it should drop down with no hesitation. If it does then the cable has to be the problem, if not then it's the derailleur or hanger.

Also, installing a new hanger does not mean it's aligned, they have to be checked/adjusted with a tool.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Somebody try an xo1 rear derailleur already! My guess is that most would prefer the range of the 42t cog.


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## Shepherd Wong (Apr 24, 2005)

Took an easy ride today, RF n/w 30, xt 2x crank, xt cassette and long cage derailleur, kmc chain about half way to .5 wear and one up 42. Everything shifted completely normal through the entire range. In the stand I had a bit of trouble getting into the 11. Hanger was ever so slightly tweaked, carefully straightened it out with the park tool and now as far as I can tell it shifts completely normally. I'm guessing not all derailleur hangers put the derailleur in the same place and maybe this accounts for my pain free operation while others who may be better mechanics than me are having trouble?


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

Post a picture. Thanks ahead


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

Pwe312


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

J.B. Weld said:


> Also, installing a new hanger does not mean it's aligned, they have to be checked/adjusted with a tool.


Wait... GBug... didn't we determine your hanger was bent that day we threw the HD up on the bike rack in my garage? Can't remember if you ever had a shop straighten it?


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## gbug (Jul 20, 2010)

A positive update on my 13-11t shifting troubles. Just got back from a long trail ride, and am happy to report that the shift into the 11t cog is decent on the trail. Funny that it shifts fine on the work stand, poorly on the street, and decent on the trail. My guess is that the jostling of the trail provides enough of a bump to get that last shift. Again, I'm using a Shimano XT medium cage RD. Would be interested to see if the long cage version performs better.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk


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## gbug (Jul 20, 2010)

hokiebrett said:


> Wait... GBug... didn't we determine your hanger was bent that day we threw the HD up on the bike rack in my garage? Can't remember if you ever had a shop straighten it?


Yep it was slightly tweaked, and I had a shop align it. But just to be safe, I threw on a new hanger after initially having trouble with the addition of the 42t cog.


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## pwe312 (Dec 18, 2013)

pwe312 said:


> Finally got it on the trail. Backed out the B screw and got about 1/4" left. Everything shifts fine and can get into all gears.
> 
> Ibis mojo hd
> Sram x9 type 2, 1x10 medium cage
> ...


Btw I'm using the stock B screw, not the longer wt one.

Pics



















Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

I am using the long cage XT and it's working great. What really seemed to help was a longer chain. When it was shorter it would pull the cage towards the center so it would not always shift to the 11.


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

*pictures*

It's not perfect but I really like it.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

kingchickenstrip said:


> I am using the long cage XT and it's working great. What really seemed to help was a longer chain. When it was shorter it would pull the cage towards the center so it would not always shift to the 11.


I can't see how the cage be pulled towards the center would have anything with shifting into 11?


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

Pwe312. Nice. I'm on the process to do the same.

But is little more complicated for me because I'm changing from 9 to 10 then woolf.







now waiting for chain and RD plus woolf


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

you bought a used cassette? lol!


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## NJbikeSNOB (Jan 23, 2014)

Yody said:


> you bought a used cassette? lol!


+1.


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

Yody said:


> I can't see how the cage be pulled towards the center would have anything with shifting into 11?


With the shorter chain I could see the bottom of the derailleur bend inward as as I shifted further from the center of the cassette. The longer chain decreased the tension on the bottom part of the derailleur making it easier to change to the outer gears.


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

Is just a step I have to save all I can to go 11.


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

And is in perfect shape. 
9 out of 10


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## pwe312 (Dec 18, 2013)

protsi said:


> And is in perfect shape.
> 9 out of 10


No need to justify yourself to some cyber bullies. You know what you're doing. Just ignore them if it's not constructive or helping out. Who cares what some random person on the Internet thinks about you.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


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## NJbikeSNOB (Jan 23, 2014)

i stand corrected. thats actually in great shape. good buy.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

kmc makes a decent cassette checker for ~$20


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

Thank but too late. I never see that one. But I'm gone see it just to learn


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## Iamrockandroll13 (Feb 10, 2013)

Has anyone tried running these with a SRAM Short cage derailleur? I'm curious if I'm going to have to go back to a medium cage.

Edit: I'll be running this setup on a hardtail, so no suspension compression issues if it works but is a close fit.


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## dan4jeepin (Apr 9, 2007)

My Setup:
Wolf tooth 42T (SRAM version) 
2013 Specialized Epic 
Shimano XT shadow+ long cage 
2 year old SRAM PG-1050 cassette 
1 year old SRAM 1090 chain
34T wolftooth S-works direct mount front ring
142mm Stans hub

Shifting when the bike is on the stand has a noticeable noise when shifting and doesn't seem crisp at all. On the trail it again did have a slight delay and noise when shifting but not as bad as it would seem compared to on the work stand. I most likely wouldn't have even noticed it if I wasn't listening for it when shifting. I did some testing by standing and pedaling while changing from 42 all the way down to 11 and found no skipping or issues when changing gears. Overall I like the setup it may not be as crisp changing gears but I can live with that to have dropped almost a pound off the bike. 

I'm looking to change the wheels at some point and now I'm wondering it the 142+ hub which pushes the cassette 2mm out would make the setup better or worse?


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Iamrockandroll13 said:


> Has anyone tried running these with a SRAM Short cage derailleur? I'm curious if I'm going to have to go back to a medium cage.
> 
> Edit: I'll be running this setup on a hardtail, so no suspension compression issues if it works but is a close fit.


What is your high gear? 12 or 11?

I think it "can" be done on a HT, however it is 1 tooth outside of the manufactures recommendations. Ive noticed that derailluers have a touch more capacity than what is listed, but when the cage is streched that much it can be less than ideal.

Sent from my LG-LS995 using Tapatalk


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## LB412 (Nov 28, 2012)

OneUp 42T with a Race Face 30T Narrow/Wide. Shifts great. 

Note - make sure to follow OneUps suggestion to remove the small plastic piece from your derailleur. Mine struggled to consistently make it to the 42T prior to the change.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

dan4jeepin said:


> I'm looking to change the wheels at some point and now I'm wondering it the 142+ hub which pushes the cassette 2mm out would make the setup better or worse?


All 142mm hubs have the same casette & rotor spacing as 135mm hubs. The extra width is only in the axle/drop-out interface.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

FM said:


> All 142mm hubs have the same casette & rotor spacing as 135mm hubs. The extra width is only in the axle/drop-out interface.


Specialized's 142+ hub shifts everything over by 2mm. While I'm not usually a fan of bastardizing standards, I actually like this one since it does something useful in moving the DS flange over by 2mm.


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## dan4jeepin (Apr 9, 2007)

Specialized likes to be different 








So the question for those that understand derailleurs better then me would the 2mm help or hurt this setup?


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

Seems like some fiddling with limit screws makes up for the offset,and the inboard shift would add a bit of tension in the derailleur. But help or hinder? No idea.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

dan4jeepin said:


> Specialized likes to be different
> So the question for those that understand derailleurs better then me would the 2mm help or hurt this setup?


I don't see it helping other than slightly modifying the chainline. The issue is the derailleur's ability to move the idler pulley along the path of the cassette radius. If you look at the XX1 derailleur, the idler is offset from the cage pivot, which makes it operate like a cam. As the chain length grows, it moves the pulley away from the cassette. Today's current gen derailleurs rely on the derailleur itself to move the pulley vertically. Otherwise, changing the front chainring would alter the pulley placement relative to the cassette.

Also, I'm not sure if the 142+ is compatible with all frames. I thought Specialized added a little extra clearance around the dropouts for the chain. I could be wrong on this.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

dan4jeepin said:


> Specialized likes to be different
> View attachment 872500
> 
> 
> So the question for those that understand derailleurs better then me would the 2mm help or hurt this setup?


If specialized frames also have the derailleur hanger shifted 2mm outwards, it will not make much difference.
If the hanger is in the same place, it will be worse.

Wither way, it moves the chain line outwards, which someone reported is not a good thing since on the smaller cogs the big angle is bending the derailleur cage inwards. 142+ will make the angle bigger. Seems that with those setups the problem is normally the smaller cogs, so optimizing for the big cogs on the expense of the smaller makes it worse.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

dan4jeepin said:


> Specialized likes to be different
> 
> So the question for those that understand derailleurs better then me would the 2mm help or hurt this setup?


Thanks for the drawing. I really don't see much benefit unless your chainline sucks due to using a chainguide, in which case moving the cassette outboard does help.

Also the hub has wider flange spacing so the wheel should be slightly stronger with more equal spoke lengths.

The rotor and frame/drop-out spacing look to be the same so this hub *should* work on any 142 frame if the shifting was adjusted properly. However I'd guess there's a chance the chain will interfere with the DS drop-out if the frame is not a specialized frame designed to work with this standard.


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## Way2ManyBikes (Aug 24, 2011)

Mine just arrived a day early


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

any word on when hope is going to release the 40t?


edit: just got word from hope that their cog will be out in 2 weeks


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## deofour (Apr 6, 2008)

Sorry to those of you who were bidding on this eBay cancelled te sale because I used wolf tooths name in the listing. Anyway one up 42 back up on a 5 day auction. Look at this on eBay:

One up componenets 42 Tooth Casette Adapter 

****************1lp6RPH


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## Ailuropoda (Dec 15, 2010)

goto11 said:


> I find the whole discussion about gearing to be fascinating, but let's be honest folks, it's not rocket science.
> 
> The 3x drivetrain was the result of decades of refinement of gear ratios. It's pretty simple to figure out your gear ratios with a simple spreadsheet to see how much range is lost when you take away one or two chainrings. The weight difference is trivial, because the chainrings being removed are about the same weight as the sprockets being added.
> 
> ...


Not at all. I just installed a Wolftooth 32-tooth chainring and a Oneup 42-tooth sprocket. The setup works great and shifts flawlessly. I converted my 2x10 Stumpjumper FSR Elite to 1x10.

I like a clean, uncomplicated bike and 1x10 is perfect for me now, I mean now that I have a really low gear for the steep climbs. I don't see the need for a 2x10 now. Most of the gear combinations are redundant anyway and are more about chain line than shifting.

It may be marketing but not all marketing is bad.


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## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

fishwrinkle: Not sure but I did see chainreactioncycles.com has it listed now with email notifications when it's in stock.

I assume you've seen this?

Frostbike: Hope Gives Your Cassette Big Teeth with the 40 T-Rex Adapter


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

thanks for the heads up, jon. i will look at crc and i was just relaying what simon at hope told me.


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## Way2ManyBikes (Aug 24, 2011)

Rode yesterday with my One Up 42 and it worked flawless. I will be ordering one for my other bike.

ps One up should ship these with a lifesaver because it made getting home on exhausted legs










Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

way2, what rd are you using and is that a binion guide? it seems that the guide would put unwanted stress on the rd and have you tried it w/o? thats a sharp looking bike.


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## Way2ManyBikes (Aug 24, 2011)

fishwrinkle said:


> way2, what rd are you using and is that a binion guide? it seems that the guide would put unwanted stress on the rd and have you tried it w/o? thats a sharp looking bike.


I'm using the SRAM X9 that came on the bike. It appears to be a clutch type. I've used the bionicon guide on the last three bikes and haven't noticed any wear problems on the rear derailure. I like the fact that there is no chain noise and I have never dropped a chain. I've run one on my jamis Dakar full suspension for the past 2 years (3000 miles) and the XO RD still works perfectly.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

cool. i was just thinking that the 42t and the guide would be really maxing out the rd, that's all.


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## Tikiguy (Nov 18, 2010)

With all the resent negative post to the 42's I was getting a little wearied but I rode my set up yesterday for the first time and have nothing bad to say. I do see how a 40t may be the sweet spot and I'm pretty sure when there easier to get it will work for me. I hit a couple local climbs yesterday that require a granny (at least for everyone I know) and I had no issues. The rest of the shifting felt the same to me. I'm picky about my stuff and did spend some time adjusting to make sure it was spot on.







One Up, XTR Long cage. Race Face N/W 30t
The gearing is real close to what my 24/36 was but I'm loving the 1X, been 1X since December.


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## myitch (Jan 25, 2004)

So, is the XT Shimano Plus Long cage really the way to go for smooth shifting? I'm assuming yes since it can take up the slack better. I was thinking of the WT 42 cog and 32T Race NW up front. I prefer medium cage though for more clearance and quicker shifts


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

myitch said:


> So, is the XT Shimano Plus Long cage really the way to go for smooth shifting? I'm assuming yes since it can take up the slack better. I was thinking of the WT 42 cog and 32T Race NW up front. I prefer medium cage though for more clearance and quicker shifts


It seems that for smooth shifting you need sram


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## Way2ManyBikes (Aug 24, 2011)

CrozCountry said:


> It seems that for smooth shifting you need sram


Works perfectly for me


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Cross posting from the Wolftooth thread:

I picked up a Wolftooth GC this week. I ended up just taking it to my mechanic to set up. Turns out my Yeti didn't come with an XT cassette (which surprised me) so with a new cassette, the GC installed and RD adjusted, it shifted well in the stand. He said I didn't absolutely NEED a new chain, but it was close and when I was due for a new one, to just size up one or two links.



I got home and took a spin around the block. It shifts reasonably well, though not stellar and there's a knocking from my RD in the middle of the cassette which seems worse when I adjust the b limit IN.



Any thoughts? I'm embarrassed to say I've got a mental block against RD setup (its on my list of things to just learn) so if there's something simple, I may be missing it. I'm going to get a new chain regardless.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

Installed the Shimano 42T last weekend, works well in the garage/street, pedals backwards great too. Ibis Mojo SL with one 2.5mm BB spacer on the drive side and I offset the chainring inwards 1.5mm with a spacer. Chain rides on the 5th largest cog when it's straight. Brand new SLX 10spd cassette with rivets drilled out.

Hope to get out soon but trails are very muddy and have been riding the 29er SS....



patski said:


> I just ordered a XT Shadow plus from Amazon, through CC I believe, $60! Nice.... .


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I rode my Sram WT42cog Sunday. Worked flawlessly for me. If I looked for the gap between 15t and 19t it was noticable but just riding along I really didnt notice it. 


I need to order a 32 or 34t though now. Its geared way to low with a 30t and 26's.


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

Way2ManyBikes said:


> I'm using the SRAM X9 that came on the bike. It appears to be a clutch type. I've used the bionicon guide on the last three bikes and haven't noticed any wear problems on the rear derailure. I like the fact that there is no chain noise and I have never dropped a chain. I've run one on my jamis Dakar full suspension for the past 2 years (3000 miles) and the XO RD still works perfectly.


Doesn't it make some kind of noise all the time?


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## Way2ManyBikes (Aug 24, 2011)

Wish I Were Riding said:


> Doesn't it make some kind of noise all the time?


There is a little noise but I no longer hear chain slap which drives me nuts


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## myitch (Jan 25, 2004)

Shimano Bruddahs!! 

Using the 42T: Long cage required or medium cage okay?


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## mathoss (Mar 30, 2004)

I got my WTooth CG42 yesterday! Once installed on my Surly Pug with a cheap X7/X5 cassette (17t removed) and a 30t RF NW on a Hussefelt crank, it works fine on the stand... I did not need to change my B screw.


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

I've got a OneUp installed on wife's bike, XT long cage, working well in the stand. B-screw is at the limit, though, for sure.

My other bikes are sram x9, and have OneUp cogs en route.

Now, I'm curious... I wonder if this new XO1 10-speed option DH rear der will handle the 11-42 we are "creating" in this thread with even better precision than the x9's and XT's we're all pushing to the limit...
Check out the article and scroll down. Might be the thing to buy this spring if my x9 der's bite the dust.
First Ride - SRAM Debuts DH Specific 7 Speed Drivetrain - Pinkbike


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I guess it would depend on what the max cog would be. It looks like a short cage.

Wonder what they did to the XX1 RD to make it work as a 10 speed...or is it in the shifter?

Maybe they'll have it at Sea Otter.


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

The specs for the X01 DH 10 spd rear der, call it a "mid cage." It's mentioned by the weight; lookin the graphic pasted on the pinkbike page.

I would suppose the lever arm/pulley around which the cable moves has changed slightly, to work with 10 speed cassette. And yes, the shifter must be 10spd as well.

From the article: "The biggest difference between the two, though, is the cam that the shift cable wraps around that provides the correct amount of leverage to make it 10 speed specific. "



RS VR6 said:


> I guess it would depend on what the max cog would be. It looks like a short cage.
> 
> Wonder what they did to the XX1 RD to make it work as a 10 speed...or is it in the shifter?
> 
> Maybe they'll have it at Sea Otter.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

rfxc said:


> Now, I'm curious... I wonder if this new XO1 10-speed option DH rear der will handle the 11-42 we are "creating" in this thread with even better precision than the x9's and XT's we're all pushing to the limit...
> Check out the article and scroll down. Might be the thing to buy this spring if my x9 der's bite the dust.
> First Ride - SRAM Debuts DH Specific 7 Speed Drivetrain - Pinkbike


Hmmm, Narrow/Wide dérailleur sprockets...


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

rfxc said:


> The specs for the X01 DH 10 spd rear der, call it a "mid cage." It's mentioned by the weight; lookin the graphic pasted on the pinkbike page.
> 
> I would suppose the lever arm/pulley around which the cable moves has changed slightly, to work with 10 speed cassette. And yes, the shifter must be 10spd as well.
> 
> From the article: "The biggest difference between the two, though, is the cam that the shift cable wraps around that provides the correct amount of leverage to make it 10 speed specific. "


If its a "mid" cage...it may work?

Lol...I guess it all depends on how far you can crank in that b-tension screw!


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

All of this has me begging the question... should I try an X01 11spd rear der with me xx 10 spd shifter and OneUp modified 11-42 cassette? I'm googling for cable pull and cassette spacing ratios but finding anything conclusive. 

curious.


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## maindog (Mar 4, 2014)

Hello to everybody! First post!!!

I've been following this thread since a while and I'm about to order the Wolf Tooth GC, but first, what do you guys think about this video I found:
X01 and 10 speed cassette. - YouTube


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## honkonbobo (Nov 18, 2006)

post deleted


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

Just curiosity. Does anybody try with I I speed chain? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## madog99 (Jun 5, 2009)

protsi said:


> Just curiosity. Does anybody try with I I speed chain?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, I commented on the 11 speed chain in reply #393. Worked better for me than the 10 speed chain.


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## drmayer (Apr 19, 2007)

maindog said:


> Hello to everybody! First post!!!
> 
> I've been following this thread since a while and I'm about to order the Wolf Tooth GC, but first, what do you guys think about this video I found:
> X01 and 10 speed cassette. - YouTube


I've been wondering about this for a while. Looks like it would work great with the 11-42 conversions. Just need to know what shifter they are using.


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## Tourendo (Jan 22, 2004)

rfxc said:


> All of this has me begging the question... should I try an X01 11 spd rear der with me xx 10 spd shifter and OneUp modified 11-42 cassette? I'm googling for cable pull and cassette spacing ratios but finding anything conclusive.
> 
> curious.


Probably wont work, but no has has tried it yet. The question has been asked numerous times already, but never answered. If you have all the parts available already, I sure many here would be grateful for the definitive answer.


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## clarkrw3 (Feb 21, 2011)

Just got this in today haven't set it up yet but pretty impressed with it









And next to an XO1


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

clarkrw3 said:


> Just got this in today haven't set it up yet but pretty impressed with it
> 
> 
> 
> ...


NICE! ordered the same color... wish they have shipped it and get to work on it this weekend when i get home.. wonder when you ordered yours. .


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## clarkrw3 (Feb 21, 2011)

He said a bunch went out Monday. I think I ordered mine not quite two weeks ago....whenever I got my email it was back in stock


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

clarkrw3 said:


> He said a bunch went out Monday. I think I ordered mine not quite two weeks ago....whenever I got my email it was back in stock


 mine was just wishful thinking then.. haven't had any email confirmations of shipment yet... so i guess ill keep on drooling on setup's like yours.. .


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## Tourendo (Jan 22, 2004)

I just got my shipping confirmation for the WT cog today.Like a few others here I'll be using a Raceface NW 30t front ring.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

al-r said:


> I just got my shipping confirmation for the WT cog today.Like a few others here I'll be using a Raceface NW 30t front ring.


how long ago did you order? this will allow me to gauge/estimate when i should be getting mine.. im just way toooo excited to get mine done.. it'll be riding season soon..

====

booyah!!! no wonder i could not sleep... just got confirmation my WT 42 GC just got shipped! :lol::lol:


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## cobym2 (Apr 11, 2005)

Ive finally had some decent saddle time on both the Wolf tooth and the One UP 42 t cog. Here are some initial thoughts. 
First the setup: 
1. Knolly Endorphin - SRAM x9 type 2 RD (med cage), PG 1050 cassette- ONEUP 42t cog, 10 speed Shimano chain, 34t front chainring
2. Turner Burner - XT M780 clutch RD (med cage), XT cassette - Wolftooth GC, 10 speed shimano chain, 30t front chainring

Both cogs were incredibly simple to set up. On the knolly, I didnt even have to turn the stock B-adjustment screw all the way. On the Turner, I used the included longer screw from Wolftooth but turned it in around a bit more than halfway. 
On both bikes, I just noticed that I had to adjust my chainline inward since the angle from the large cog to the chainring was quite extreme. It still shifted ok this way, but I didnt want to stress my chains cranking out major wattage on that extreme angle. I moved BB spacers accordingly. 

On trail performance: 
Both cogs shifted FLAWLESSLY. To be honest, out riding, I couldnt really tell the two apart. They are both excellent upgrades or additions. 
Just one minor niggle though. When I backpedal the Turner/wolftooth, the chain derails from the 42 to the 36t cog. That may be due to frame constraints and bad chainline, or my slightly abused XT RD? Since I cant think of this being a problem on the trail, however, its really nothing to worry about. 

Bottom line: Im not going back to a front derailleur, but Im also too cheap to spend big bucks on SRAMs 1x11 stuff. This is gear heaven for me. 
Ive said that narrow wide chainrings and clutch derailleurs are the best upgrades of last year. The 42t cog is probably the best for this year.


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## myitch (Jan 25, 2004)

cobym2 said:


> Ive finally had some decent saddle time on both the Wolf tooth and the One UP 42 t cog. Here are some initial thoughts.
> First the setup:
> 1. Knolly Endorphin - SRAM x9 type 2 RD (med cage), PG 1050 cassette- ONEUP 42t cog, 10 speed Shimano chain, 34t front chainring
> 2. Turner Burner - XT M780 clutch RD (med cage), XT cassette - Wolftooth GC, 10 speed shimano chain, 30t front chainring
> ...


Ah, the back pedaling! That's what I was wondering about...and the chainline. I guess those are the compromises of saving vs XO1/XX1.

Have you ever ridden a SRAM 11 speed drivetrain for comparison?


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

myitch said:


> Ah, the back pedaling! That's what I was wondering about...and the chainline. I guess those are the compromises of saving vs XO1/XX1.


Not so fast!

Cobym2, that was a good review, thanks. A big factor is WHAT chainrings you are using. Most N/W and 1x-specific chainrings are offset to the inboard side which affects your chainline. If you have a 30t wolftooth ring, it's got a different amount of offset than their 32t ring, etc.

All I'm saying is the benefit of X01 is that the entire drivetrain was designed to work as a whole. I think it's possible to get comparable performance out of a cobbed together wolftooth/one-up set-up, but there's a billion little details that affect chainline and this shifting performance. I bet most of us are willing to work through those little details with such a massive price difference, and I'd bet they can be worked through to achieve comparable performance.

Probably the only way to really fairly compare the 42t cogs would be to try them on the same bike, same chain and cassette.


----------



## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

From another forum:


Stopbreakindown said:


> Wondering if and when this will be available to the US market and how much?
> 
> Anyone ever heard of this company before?
> 
> ...


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

jazzanova said:


> From another forum:


Interesting...


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## FreeCoffee (Jan 13, 2012)

Recent 2x transplant, bought a Wolftooth in black. Here's my setup:

XT 3x crank
XT cassette
XT shadow+ med d.
Hope pro2 hub
Race face 32t Narrow wide

All parts were brand new and installed together minus the crank. **** works perfect on the stand and in the cul de sac test: 




Got a big ride planned for Saturday and we'll see how it goes on a 30mile/4k ft ride with lots of mixed terrain...


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## journey (Jan 27, 2004)

jazzanova said:


> From another forum:


https://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-...40t-free-ranger-10-speed-cassette-902191.html


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## LB412 (Nov 28, 2012)

journey said:


> http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...40t-free-ranger-10-speed-cassette-902191.html


Id rather have the 11-42 minus the 17 with a 30t+ up front... Anything less and I find that I "spin out" on steep non tech downs and flatish gap runs connecting the more fun stuff. Anything above 30 I have to hike a bike on 3 trails. I can ride the same terrain on my 28x36 HT with similar effort and clean all but one... I'll get it in a few weeks.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I'd rather an 11-40/32 setup myself.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

^ yup, that's why i'm waiting on hope


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## mav1c (Aug 13, 2012)

I'm on the fence between the WT 42 and Hope 40. Currently running a SRAM 11-36T with an X0 Type 2 and Widgit 34T front. I'm leaning towards the 42T Wolf.

Thanks to everyone for all the info so far.


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## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

Hope just tweeted this...

Hope Technology
@Hopetech
As promised, our first batch of 40T-REx sprockets are ready today. More info on our website - po.st/40TREx pic.twitter.com/uY8uLS0ZdH


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## dfrazm (Oct 4, 2007)

*My GC set-up (LONG POST)*

Just got my Wolf Tooth Red 42T GC in last Thursday. Sram specific GC went on a Sram 1050 cassette (11-36) on a Canfield Yelli Screamy. I am running a regular Shimano 64BCD 28t "granny" chainring on the front. I have run this chainring, cassette, KMC X10SL chain, and a Sram X9 type II mid-cage derailleur for more than a year without a single dropped chain. The 28t "granny" does not have the ramps/teeth of a shifting middle or large ring, and the teeth are actually longer, so it pretty much works like a SS ring. The chainline on the Yelli is PERFECT with this ring in the 64 BCD position on a 2X (XT M785) crankset with one bottom bracket spacer on the drive side (as Shimano instructions say should be done). Perfect 1X10 shifting and no dropped chains in over a year (riding in AZ chunk).

I was nervous about the GC with the Yelli's chainstays being so short. I mounted it per directions, but I left out the 15t cog, as I always use the 17t and 19t. I ordered a new KMC X10SL chain, as I new I would need a longer chain and these cannot be lengthened as they have mushroomed pins, and the pin mushroom is destroyed when you push a pin out. I could have used another quick-link, but I did not want two on a chain.

I measured the chain using the large chainring (my only chainring, 28T), around the GC, bypass the derailler, and added two links. Cut (pushed pin) the chain to my measured length and installed it in the derailler. Adjusted "B" screw so that there was no rubbing between 36T and GC. I did not need the longer screw included with the GC. In fact, I still had 3mm of screw showing with the correct adjustment. I went for a driveway test and adjusted trim on the derailler. Shifting was marginal (at best). I was quite dissapointed, so I started the typical break-down of potential problems.

I started with the derailler hanger allignment. Made a small tweek using the 5mm allen key in the derailler mounting hole on the hanger and eyeballed the derailler allignment. Looked good.

I then looked at chain tension. My derailler was almost at full tension with the 28T X 42T (GC) combo. The way the Sram (maybe Shimano too) deraillers are set-up, the upper cage pulley is offset, so that the farther the cage is pulled (larger cogs), the further it is pulled away from the cog. Although it seemed to me that I would want the shortest chain possible to take advantage of this design (cage pulled towards the crankset as far as possible) I re-visited proper chain length. I went the opposite way this time. I put the derailler in the 11T position and added links using two quick-links until the chain still had tension on the smallest cog (11T) and did not rub on itself where it wrapped through the cage. I made sure the chain below the bottom pulley heading to the chainring did not rub on chain below the top pulley, as the two pulleys are nearly horizontal to each other in the highest (smallest) cog. I then shifted to the 42T GC. The derailler was less into it's total swing, as I added three links. I did the driveway test and surprisingly shifting was better, but not where it was before the GC installation. More frustration.

I then decided that with a new chain maybe I had wear in my drivetrain and the new chain wasn't matching up with old cassette. I did not want to buy a new cassette unless completely necessary. I then decided that I would try to install some new jockey pulleys on the derailler. I picked up some $15 alloy pulleys from the LBS, installed, and ......PERFECT SHIFTING!!!

I ordered a new KMC X10SL chain as I did not want a chain with two quick links in it. Installed yesterday and I cannot say that I now notice any shifting difference between stock Sram 11-36 and now Sram/Wolf Tooth 11-42. Here are the key points I found:

1) Install a new chain (as most 10spd chains have mushroomed pins and cannot be lengthened by putting a pin back through them). Make sure that it is as long a possible in the highest gear (smallest cog), but that it will still have tension and does not rub on itself.
2) Adjust "B" screw tension so that there is no rubbing in shifts between 36T and 42T. Turn screw out until there is just a little rubbing from 36T to 42T, and then screw it in (more tension) half a turn.
3) I removed the 15T and shifting is perfect up and down across all cogs, even the 13T to 17T.
4) The key to my final shifting issue was the derailler jockey pulleys. Once I installed new allow pulleys (these) everything is PERFECT.
5) NOTE: Adding B screw tension lengthens the drivetrain, effectively shortening your chain. Make sure you account for this in measuring your chain before shortening!!!

Hope this helps...

Photos:

General drivetrain


Another general drivetrain


Chain on 11T


Chain gap on 11T


Chain on 11T


Chain on GC 42T


Chain on GC 42T backside


Derailler position on GC 42T


Alloy jockey pulley


B screw (blurry, 3 mm still showing on stock screw)


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## 661lee (Apr 11, 2007)

Why do you think the new pulleys helped? Were yours worn?


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## dfrazm (Oct 4, 2007)

661lee said:


> Why do you think the new pulleys helped? Were yours worn?


I can't say that I noticed any excessive wear with the old pulleys. Old pulleys had a bit of lateral play in them. I think they are designed this way so that the upper pulley can move a little to "micro-adjust" to the chain position on the cogs (I think this is how the manufacturers describe the reason for the play). The pulleys I installed have no play. I think this just "tightened" everything up.


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## 661lee (Apr 11, 2007)

Thanks for the detailed write up. Got any pics of your setup?


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## in the trees (Mar 24, 2005)

So if starting to build a 1x10 drivetrain from scratch, what the optimal setup for running a GC 42T? Sram or Shimano, long cage or mid age, direct mount or regular chainring, etc?


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## dfrazm (Oct 4, 2007)

*Pics posted above*

Pics in original post above


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## DStaley (Jun 25, 2011)

I installed a Wolftooth 42T GC and a RaceFace N/W 30T chainring on my 9 Zero 7 fatbike and have been able to get a few rides on the new set up. 99% of the riding on snowy trails. One day was 4-6" of powder, the other loosely packed from snowshoers.

My setup is as follows:

RaceFace Ride Crankset
SRAM X7 Rear Derailleur (non-clutch)
SRAM X7 Shifter
SRAM X7 Cassette with 17T cog removed
Jagwire Housing
SRAM Cables

I have to say I am impressed with the performance. Nice and quiet, and I love not having a front derailleur. It shifts just fine all the way through the range, no noticeable extra noise or hesitation. There is a tiny amount of chain rubbing the frame when on the 11t cog, but all I need to do is use a longer chainring bolt and add a small spacer. I won't do this until summer, as my fatbike is ridden almost exclusively on snow, so I am never on the 11t anyway. If it's dry enough to get going fast, I'll probably ride my full suspension bike instead.

To get ideal chainline I put two BB spacers on the non-drive side, one on the drive side. This puts the chainline right in the center of the cassette. Originally the bike had two spacers on the drive side.

I did not use the longer B-adjustment screw provided with the cog. Also, I have no problems with the chain jumping off the cog when back pedaling. I haven't dropped a chain with the non-clutch type derailleur, although I wouldn't expect to as I am riding only on snow, and it's a fully rigid bike.

As far as gearing, it'll be fine when my legs get used to it. I had a 24T granny up front, and I only miss it on steep climbs or really loose snow, but it's only a gear or so higher than the old setup. Having a bigger chainring helps me (err... forces me) to keep a bit more momentum, and has actually helped me clear some stuff where I would have otherwise been bogged down. Longer rides might tire me out a bit more, but it'll get me in good shape for the summer.

All in all, I'm happy with the setup.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

in the trees said:


> So if starting to build a 1x10 drivetrain from scratch, what the optimal setup for running a GC 42T? Sram or Shimano, long cage or mid age, direct mount or regular chainring, etc?


I didn't do accurate statistics, but it seems that sram derailleur med cage or long is the ticket. I have a new XT setup, so I am putting this on hold until Hope 40T has real world experience.

As far as chainrings, I don't think it makes much difference as long as you have correct chainline. Personally I go for direct mount, which means a sram crank, regardless of what's in the back.
I think with a two rings crank it will be hard to get a good chainline if you don't have a removable spider (direct mount). Shimano 3 speed cranks will give you a good chainline on the middle ring, but limit the size of chainring you can use. Direct mount gives you all the options you can wish for, so its the best options for mods without hacks.


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## padrefan1982 (Mar 2, 2005)

Looks like OneUp's now in the 40t game: One Up Components Adds 40-Tooth Replacement Cassette Cog


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

*Saw something interesting a friend was running a oneup on a shimano 11by 36 cassette and instead of drilling out the rivets and removing the 17 tooth he just removed the 12 and it shifts fine in all gears he was running a X9 derailleur. Food for thought....*


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## Aszors (Dec 11, 2013)

padrefan1982 said:


> Looks like OneUp's now in the 40t game: One Up Components Adds 40-Tooth Replacement Cassette Cog


This is good news as I was waiting for the 40T myself and looking at hope as well, time will tell what the reviews will be like SRAM/XT comparisons


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

padre that's good to see they are testing 40t with short cages. hopefully it works out and i can keep my zee rd

raku, this was something i was wondering myself as i don't really need that much top end & my slx cassette shows no wear with my checker. pointless to buy a new cassette just for a hack & i don't have to tediously dremmel rivets


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## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

I think the 40T offerings -- rather than 42T -- are going to be huge hits.
So now which one to get?
Looks like OneUp's 40T is shipping next week, but isn't Sram/Shimano specific so shifting may not be as good.
Hope, on the other hand, does have the ramps to fit specifically Sram or Shimano but no date yet on availability.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

lol, i'm still waiting on an email from crc. i wish hope would have offered red & purple instead of gold and silver


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Anyone have a part number (b-link?) for the part needed to "trail" your Zee RD?

Actually would that part do the same for a med or long cage SLX/XT/XTR RD...or is the "trail" b-link for the Saint/Zee RD the same one as the stock XT?

Searching around online...looks like the Zee trail b-link is the same one as the stock XT. At least it looks like it puts the Zee at the same angle as the XT.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

RS VR6 said:


> Anyone have a part number (b-link?) for the part needed to "trail" your Zee RD?


Confused by this.. can you post some details on what you're talking about?

There's several reports online from people running Zee's with 42t cogs reporting no issues. I didn't see anyone mentioning using direct-mount vs. B-link. My understanding is that the B-link is just the OE piece that is removed if your frame is direct-mount compatible.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

FM said:


> Confused by this.. can you post some details on what you're talking about?
> 
> There's several reports online from people running Zee's with 42t cogs reporting no issues. I didn't see anyone mentioning using direct-mount vs. B-link. My understanding is that the B-link is just the OE piece that is removed if your frame is direct-mount compatible.


The Zee can have 2 different length b-links.
The DH one and the FreeRide one.


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

Rakuman said:


> *Saw something interesting a friend was running a oneup on a shimano 11by 36 cassette and instead of drilling out the rivets and removing the 17 tooth he just removed the 12 and it shifts fine in all gears he was running a X9 derailleur. Food for thought....*


There is no 12t cog on a shimano 11-36 cassette.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

NordieBoy said:


> The Zee can have 2 different length b-links.
> The DH one and the FreeRide one.


Ah. So of course anyone that was already running an 11-36 cassette already has the FR B-link.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

One of the shop guys mentioned the b-link to me weeks ago. He did the trail conversion for his DH ZEE derailleur. Looks like the Trail b-link for the ZEE is a stock one for SLX/XT.

Trail b-link PN:Y50Y98010 (same as SLX)
XT b-link PN: Y5Y098010


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## mhopton (Nov 27, 2005)

I'm going to go against the grain of this thread and say that my shifting performance after swapping to a 1up 42 and rf n/w 32 front ring just isn't up to par. 

The bike is a 2014 remedy 9 with full xt components. I swapped the 15t cog for a 16t out of a road cassette, which also didn't seem to help as it has fewer shift ramps causing the chain to skip before catching on the upshift.

I have no problems smoothly jumping from the 36 to the 42 however the taller/higher cogs in the middle of the cassette are dragging and not catching for several seconds. In order to get a crisp upshift I have to dial in so much cable tension that I lose the crispness going down the cassette. I did have to make a slight adjustment to the low limit screw. 

Is it possible that the extreme amount of b-screw tension is throwing of derailleur alignment elsewhere in the cassette? I have reset the cable tension, checked hangar alignment, etc. I went from crisp, fast, light action Shimano shifting to slow, heavy ga-ga-ga-ga-ga, catch! shifting. 

I'm ready to ditch this stuff, sell it cheap and go back to xt 2x10 and save for a proper 1x11 setup.

Help and thoughts appreciated. 



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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

*Ultegra 16T with my Wolftooth 42T*

I tried an Ultegra 16T with my Wolftooth 42T and it was worthless, the ramps look like they're 180° out of phase.



mhopton said:


> The bike is a 2014 remedy 9 with full xt components. I swapped the 15t cog for a 16t out of a road cassette, which also didn't seem to help as it has fewer shift ramps causing the chain to skip before catching on the upshift.


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## mhopton (Nov 27, 2005)

patski said:


> I tried an Ultegra 16T with my Wolftooth 42T and it was worthless, the ramps look like they're 180° out of phase.


Yeah, my 16t was from a dura-ace 12-23 cassette - I thought the same thing about the phase of the shift ramps. It sucks.

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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

I've set up two xt equipped bikes with one up 42 and a miche 16t cog replacing the 15. It's not perfect but pretty darn good. Both riders are racing on it. You can tell that the 16 tooth cog delays shifts more than the other cogs. But it is definitely serviceable.

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

I may have 16t from a SRAM road cassette I could try. Interesting that shimano shift ramps are not lining up.

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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

my LBS just called me to let me know my ride with the 42T is ready but was told shifting from 15 to 19 is not smooth as he wants it to be. 

im thinking of putting back the 17T and ditch the 11T. i came across a post that had a link to a LOCK-RING for a 13T if i remember it right. anybody knows where i can this part?

i cant seem to locate the post anymore with all the 42T im subscribed in... thanks in advance.


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

So... we've learned that shimano shift ramps differ greatly between tight range road cassettes and wider range mtb cassettes.

I wonder if the same holds true for sram cassettes. Maybe I can set up a sram 11-42 using a sram road 16t cog in place of the 15 & 17.

I think I have the parts to try this.


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## Tourendo (Jan 22, 2004)

I read on nsmb.com of someone taking a Shimano 16t cog , rotating it to where the shift ramps match up and then dremeling a small notch so it'll fit on the hub. Poster claimed it works very well, while the original 16t shifted worse than the 15-19 jump. 

Nobody seems to have success with either the Miche cog or a Shimano 16t cog. One of the 42t manufacturers need to step up and produce a 16t cog.


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## Lindahl (Aug 9, 2011)

I'm not really sure how the cassette cogs are attached together, but is there any way you can replace the 19/21 with a 20 from one Shimano cassette to another? That way you don't get the 15-19-21-24 jump, and instead have 15-17-20-24?

Looks like you could get a 20T from a 11-32 771?

You could also grab a 16T from a 11-32 771 and replace the 15/17 with the 16. Shouldn't the shift ramps match up then? It's from the same model of cassette?


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

*Bummer*

Sorry to hear you're having so many problems with your set-up. I'm using the wolfstooth 42 with similar XT setup and it's working great for 200 plus miles so far. I still think the SRAM 1x11 that my buddy rides is better but it is just not in my budget. The good news is I'm sure there are many people reading this forum who would be only too happy to buy your OneUp 42T.
Good Luck


mhopton said:


> I'm going to go against the grain of this thread and say that my shifting performance after swapping to a 1up 42 and rf n/w 32 front ring just isn't up to par.
> 
> The bike is a 2014 remedy 9 with full xt components. I swapped the 15t cog for a 16t out of a road cassette, which also didn't seem to help as it has fewer shift ramps causing the chain to skip before catching on the upshift.
> 
> ...


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## mhopton (Nov 27, 2005)

Lindahl said:


> I'm not really sure how the cassette cogs are attached together, but is there any way you can replace the 19/21 with a 20 from one Shimano cassette to another? That way you don't get the 15-19-21-24 jump, and instead have 15-17-20-24?
> 
> Looks like you could get a 20T from a 11-32 771?
> 
> You could also grab a 16T from a 11-32 771 and replace the 15/17 with the 16. Shouldn't the shift ramps match up then? It's from the same model of cassette?


If I remember correctly, the 19-21-24 are pinned together.

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## itradebr (Mar 5, 2013)

Im wondering if anyone has used OneUp or WolfTooth 42T with 2x10 Shimano?
Im thinking on upgrade my drivetrain adding a Shimano XT 26-38 Crankset and the 42T Chainring. Rear derailleur is a XT Shadow Plus Long Cage.

Any toughts on that setup?

Thanks


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## spankone (Aug 31, 2011)

I've not done it. But I've heard it works itradebr 


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

mhopton said:


> I'm going to go against the grain of this thread and say that my shifting performance after swapping to a 1up 42 and rf n/w 32 front ring just isn't up to par....
> 
> I have no problems smoothly jumping from the 36 to the 42 however the taller/higher cogs in the middle of the cassette are dragging and not catching for several seconds.
> 
> I'm ready to ditch this stuff, sell it cheap and go back to xt 2x10 and save for a proper 1x11 setup.


by your own admission, your problems have absolutely nothing to do with the 1up 42 as it shifts smoothly.

if you wanna sell it cheap, let me know... :thumbsup:


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## Ailuropoda (Dec 15, 2010)

My Wolftooth/Oneup combination shifts just fine on the whole range of gears...but not as smoothly as my 1X11 XO1 on my ROS9.

One thing I have noticed is that I get the occasional skip on the smallest sprocket. I think somebody mentioned that this was the result of not having enough chain wrap. It's no big deal because I probably only spend a few minutes a week in this gear.

I like the setup. I have a few long rides on it and, at the risk of sounding like a wimp, I really like the 1x10 setup for its simplicity but I was holding off converting because I really need the low gears. I need them a lot more than I need the high gears. I spin out now in the highest gear at around 18 miles an hour which is an unthinkable speed on our trails.

If I'm going faster I'm usually holding in for dear life or coasting down a hill while road shuttling to or from the trails. I can live with losing a few high gears.

Plus, the bike looks better. Aesthetics are important.


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## ctopher63 (Aug 7, 2011)

al-r said:


> I read on nsmb.com of someone taking a Shimano 16t cog , rotating it to where the shift ramps match up and then dremeling a small notch so it'll fit on the hub. Poster claimed it works very well, while the original 16t shifted worse than the 15-19 jump.
> 
> Nobody seems to have success with either the Miche cog or a Shimano 16t cog. One of the 42t manufacturers need to step up and produce a 16t cog.


I've done this as well and it helps a lot.


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## mhopton (Nov 27, 2005)

monogod said:


> by your own admission, your problems have absolutely nothing to do with the 1up 42 as it shifts smoothly.
> 
> if you wanna sell it cheap, let me know... :thumbsup:


Perhaps I wasn't clear. I was stating that the sum of the parts wasn't acceptable given the smooth, light action feel typically associated with Shimano.

I pulled out the 16t and replaced with the xt 15-t and it is definitely shifting better in the higher range of the cassette while in the stand. There is a delay jumping from the 15 to the 19, but it's not too bad.

I'll continue to refine it and see where it gets me.

Thanks to all for confirming that the road cogs aren't the way to go.

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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

Lindahl said:


> You could also grab a 16T from a 11-32 771 and replace the 15/17 with the 16. Shouldn't the shift ramps match up then? It's from the same model of cassette?


THIS is a solid hypothesis.

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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

mhopton said:


> Perhaps I wasn't clear. I was stating that the sum of the parts wasn't acceptable given the smooth, light action feel typically associated with Shimano.


I agree with this 100% as well as a bunch of others who have tried it out. That being said what people need to realize is everyone's standards are different.


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

rfxc said:


> So... we've learned that shimano shift ramps differ greatly between tight range road cassettes and wider range mtb cassettes.


So, theoretically speaking:

I can break down the old 9spd Shimano 11-32 MTB cassette that I pulled of my other half's old MTB? Use that 16T b/c it's an MTB tooth vs. road?


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## literally (Apr 14, 2013)

rfxc said:


> THIS is a solid hypothesis.


Pretty sure this has been done and confirmed to work. i've seen auctions for this 16t specifically mentioning being used for this purpose.


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

I finally managed to get the time to swap the 16t I installed out for the original 15t. I had an XT 11-36 cassette that I swapped in an XT M760 11-32 16t cog in place of the 15t when I did my Shimano GC install. Using an XT Shadow plus long cage derailleur shifting into and around that 16t was pure garbage while my shifting in the rest of the cassette including the GC was great. So I took the 16t out again and compared it with the original 15t I put back in. The shift ramps are significantly out of phase in comparison. With the 15t cog back in shifting in the low end is now acceptably rideable. A little rough up to and off the 15t but not nearly as worthless as it was with the 16t. Guess I should have just listened to the OneUp and Wolf Tooth guys from the start instead of thinking I could do better. I'm happy enough with it now that I think I can hold off on the XO1 to see if Shimano is going to give us something for 2015.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Interesting that you guys mentioned the ramps not lining up on the 16T. I used a 16T off a SRAM 1070 on my 1030...and it skipped like mad in the 16T. I have to find the cassette and see if the ramps line up.


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

I plan on putting the GC on my Fatty with a Sram PG 30. I have a Shimano HG61 from off my Sawyer. If I take the 16t from the HG61, can it work on the PG 30 or is it not compatible?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Tunalic said:


> I plan on putting the GC on my Fatty with a Sram PG 30. I have a Shimano HG61 from off my Sawyer. If I take the 16t from the HG61, can it work on the PG 30 or is it not compatible?


Only one way to find out...


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

Thanks, just wanted to check before wasting my time on this.


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## mobes (Feb 6, 2014)

For the Shimano 771's, the Germans have reported great success using the Y1YR16000 16t from the 11-32 cassette.

I think it was earlier in this thread that someone mentioned success with SRAM as well, but it will depend on what ratio cassette the cog comes from, as the indexing is likely to vary. Unfortunately nobody has spoken up about specific findings with SRAM.

I myself am going to try a SRAM 11-36 since the ratio spacing in that part of the cassette is more conducive to swapping in a 16t vs the Shimano. The 11-32, 11-23, and 12-2* cassettes all have 16t cogs. If I had to guess I'd say the one from the 11-32 would be the best bet. Too bad SRAM doesn't (apparently) sell individual cogs like Shimano does.


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## Tourendo (Jan 22, 2004)

^^^ realistically, Shimano doesn't sell 16t cogs either, at least in North America. Most people are just scavenging them from an old cassette.


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## mobes (Feb 6, 2014)

Just found this:

North Shore Mountain Biking Forums - View Single Post - 11spd Experiments

Hopefully it's no problem to post that link... if so I'll be happy to take it down.

Looks like the indexing is still off. But it's workable with slight modification.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

I'll give it a try, dremel/grind off the orange bit, here's the money shot:











mobes said:


> Just found this: North Shore Mountain Biking Forums - View Single Post - 11spd Experiments Looks like the indexing is still off. But it's workable with slight modification.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Selling new still in bag Wolftooth Shimano 42 tooth Red cog, going with 40 tooth so my Zee derail can stay put on my bike. PM me if anyone wants it without the wait.


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## Way2ManyBikes (Aug 24, 2011)

Mine worked flawless even frozen solid.























































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## campergf23 (Aug 4, 2013)

Been following this thread since it started, no mention of running it 2x10. Has anyone done this or thought about it? Has no one done it because 1x10 is just that much better? Or is it just not worth doing on a 2x10 because of the granny? 


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## Way2ManyBikes (Aug 24, 2011)

Not worth going 2 x 10


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## pharmaboy (Nov 11, 2005)

campergf23 said:


> Been following this thread since it started, no mention of running it 2x10. Has anyone done this or thought about it? Has no one done it because 1x10 is just that much better? Or is it just not worth doing on a 2x10 because of the granny?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you wanted an extra gear on 2x10, you'd just buy a slightly smaller granny for $20 - paying $100 for an extra gear on the cassette would just be stupid.


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## pl24 (Oct 11, 2011)

campergf23 said:


> Been following this thread since it started, no mention of running it 2x10. Has anyone done this or thought about it? Has no one done it because 1x10 is just that much better? Or is it just not worth doing on a 2x10 because of the granny?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


For a 29" bike the 2x10 is very interesting. With using a 20T granny on a 26" bike i don't know an option for a 18T granny for 29". With 22T front / 42T rear on a 29" you can climb the same steep ramps as using 20T front / 34T rear on 26" bikes. And the 20T granny can be tricky to use on some cranks/bikes. So i would like to try the 22/42 or 22/40 option for 29ers some day.


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

22t ring in front with 42t cog has got to be nearly slower than walking. 

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## mhopton (Nov 27, 2005)

I'm back to the stock XT 2x10. I'm going to save the coin to do a proper 1x11 setup.










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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

rfxc said:


> 22t ring in front with 42t cog has got to be nearly slower than walking.


I can't imagine how it would even remain upright!


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## pl24 (Oct 11, 2011)

it's cadence dependent. with 60rpm it's maybe too slow. with 90rpm you will reach 6,5km/h or 4mph and it's possible to remain upright - at least for me.
I also like the simplicity of 1x10 but i would have to walk anything steeper than 10%. ymmv


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

mhopton said:


> I'm back to the stock XT 2x10. I'm going to save the coin to do a proper 1x11 setup.


perhaps i could be of assistance. pm sent.


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## PretendGentleman (May 24, 2011)

I just ordered my one-up components 42t green cog. Awesome that they gave me and EP deal for being a shop mechanic. I've got a mildly used 11-32 (everything sram) that hopefully has a 16t, so as long as the 16 looks like it has little wear, I'll give it a shot and report back. If it's in bad shape, I'll wait a few months while the rest of the drivetrain catches up in wear.


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## titusbro (Oct 15, 2004)

campergf23 said:


> Been following this thread since it started, no mention of running it 2x10. Has anyone done this or thought about it? Has no one done it because 1x10 is just that much better? Or is it just not worth doing on a 2x10 because of the granny?


Hey camper... I still have a 2x10 setup - 
RF Bash
RF 30T
Shimano 24T
OneUp 42T
XT 11-36
SRAM X9 Type 2 Mid-cage
XTR FD

I am a 'Big Boy' (actually, a fat old man @245lbs) and I NEED my granny gears for places like Colorado and Utah however I do find that I don't need them as often with the 30x42. I had to make one minor modification to the setup - I had to add a 2mm spacer (aka washer) between the 24T ring and the spider to gain back the space that is introduced because of the spacers on the 30T ring. Without the granny spacers, the chain would fall-off to the BB shell when shifting to the granny.

Does it work...? YES, but you need to be 'more patient' as there are no helper teeth on the N/W so it takes a full half-rotation of the ring to properly drop to the granny. Note that IMO, the spacers on the 30T and the spacers on my granny have actually improved my chain line and the gears shift flawlessly. I'll try to post some pictures later today.


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## Ridefat1981 (Mar 17, 2014)

I am building a 1x10 with the wolf tooth and a 32 up front. What rear derailleur should I use? I Am cool with shimano or sram. Long cage? Or medium?


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## mobes (Feb 6, 2014)

Ridefat1981 said:


> I am building a 1x10 with the wolf tooth and a 32 up front. What rear derailleur should I use? I Am cool with shimano or sram. Long cage? Or medium?


To me it seems that anecdotal evidence suggests SRAM derailleurs handle the wide range better (either that or SRAM users are just less critical in their reviews). Medium cage is big enough for 1x 11-42.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I would go sram x9 mid cage type 2, for 42 tooth cog.


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## campergf23 (Aug 4, 2013)

Is there a cassette that works better than others? 


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I would get Shimano XT Dyna-Sys CS-M771, 11-36 10 speed cassette with Shimano XT chain. This will last longer than Sram and shift better in my opinion!! Will also need a Sram 10 speed shifter to go with the Rear X9 derail.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

*Twenty6*

There is a new dog in town for both 40 and 42 tooth cogs. Twenty6 made in Montana, there CNC skills are some of best out there. 95 bucks for Kaiser brand 7075 plate aluminum, the best!! It's strength, stiffness and wear resistance are unmatched.
40 tooth 68g and 82g for 42 tooth check them out !! I'm getting the 40 !!


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## PretendGentleman (May 24, 2011)

dgw7000 said:


> I would go sram x9 mid cage type 2, for 42 tooth cog.


just ordered exactly that. Was on the fence about medium or long to get flexibility for future tripple chainring steep mountain stomping configurations, but what the heck people do that stuff on singlespeeds.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

thx for the heads up on another contender. i always forget about these guys (twenty6). looks like hope just lost my sale.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

fishwrinkle said:


> thx for the heads up on another contender. i always forget about these guys (twenty6). looks like hope just lost my sale.


That's exactly what I was thinking about Hope. Twenty6 it's really nice to be able to call them and they also pick up the phone. Not much info on their sit, go into the Facebook page.


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## Aszors (Dec 11, 2013)

dgw7000 said:


> There is a new dog in town for both 40 and 42 tooth cogs. Twenty6 made in Montana, there CNC skills are some of best out there. 95 bucks for Kaiser brand 7075 plate aluminum, the best!! It's strength, stiffness and wear resistance are unmatched.
> 40 tooth 68g and 82g for 42 tooth check them out !! I'm getting the 40 !!


Do you work for them? I don't see any mention of GC on their page? No prices or pics or anything coming soon?


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Read my last post!! "No" I do not work for them !!


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

Anyone with a Sram XG-1080 cassette do this conversion?
I see these instructions, but...
OneUp Components - SLX HG-81 and XG-1080 Cassette Special Instructions

Could your remove the 12 and 14t, replace with a sram 13t, and have an 11-13-16 jump?
Instructions say remove the 14-- any downside to removing the 12 as well and replacing with sram 13t?

This would make a light weight conversion for sure!
Any downside to removing the 12?

(I searched this thread for "1080", no luck)


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## kamakazeesugar (Dec 28, 2007)

Got my Wolf Tooth 42 last week, still overhauling the whole bike, wheels and drivetrain, so I haven't tried it yet, but if their product quality is like their service, it should be great. Got an email generated by them telling me there was a problem in filling my order. In an effort to get one during their backlog, I ordered the only color available, red. Turns out they couldn't provide that after all and offered one in black or silver, my preferred choice. Got it in a few days with a partial refund for the inconvenience, their decision. I'll be ordering from them again!!


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## mobes (Feb 6, 2014)

dgw7000 said:


> There is a new dog in town for both 40 and 42 tooth cogs. Twenty6 made in Montana, there CNC skills are some of best out there. 95 bucks for Kaiser brand 7075 plate aluminum, the best!! It's strength, stiffness and wear resistance are unmatched.
> 40 tooth 68g and 82g for 42 tooth check them out !! I'm getting the 40 !!


Darn. Already bought my Wolf Tooth. Happy to support Wolf Tooth, but Bozeman is home for me. Good to know they're out there though!


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Wolftooth is also coming out with 40 tooth sometime soon. They are definitely a well respected company with great customer service!!


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## Aszors (Dec 11, 2013)

dgw7000 said:


> Read my last post!! "No" I do not work for them !!


Sorry didn't see that, Thanks for sharing! Now with a few options it's a tough decision! Although I would like the 40T in red so that narrows it down! I have decided that given my current setups and riding, 40t is the way to go for me!


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

dgw7000 said:


> There is a new dog in town for both 40 and 42 tooth cogs. Twenty6 made in Montana, there CNC skills are some of best out there. 95 bucks for Kaiser brand 7075 plate aluminum, the best!! It's strength, stiffness and wear resistance are unmatched.
> 40 tooth 68g and 82g for 42 tooth check them out !! I'm getting the 40 !!


nice stuff. i'm digging the 40t. it's not such a jump from the 36 to the 42. heck, maybe i'll get one of each for my krampus and just dump the first two cogs on the cassette! :thumbsup:


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

ditched the 11T and shifting is perfect. the chain still drops from 42T when back-pedalling. hopefully i get the same results off the stand and in the trails..


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

bapski said:


> ditched the 11T and shifting is perfect. the chain still drops from 42T when back-pedalling. hopefully i get the same results off the stand and in the trails..


The way I look at it, I already have a great derail Shimano ZEE short cage, why go out and buy a new derail just for the extra 2 teeth. The 40 will shift great, is lighter and I can also keep my 28 tooth front chainring.
I have the Sram XX1 crank, I even have one on my single speed Cannondale Flash. Anyone looking for a great crank, the Sram XX1 is it. Light and stiff, not too much money I paid 270.00 with the chainring, super easy to change rings. Take the 4 bolt off and ring come right off, I have a 28, 30 and 32 tooth ring I can change out in a minute. 
I other thing when its time to go 11 speed, I already have the crank. This is what I'm doing now, I have the XO1 derail and shifter, XD driver for I9 Torch wheelset. Buying slowly as money comes in, piece by piece. In the mean time I will try the 40 tooth Twenty6 cog while the weather is still wet and soft and put the 11 speed on in the summer. Rocky Mountain Element 999 RSL great bike by the way. 23.9 lbs


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## campergf23 (Aug 4, 2013)

Dgw, you said you can switch rings easily, do you remove from the spider and change it or how do you change it quickly? I'm a bit confused. 


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Spider stays put, no need to remove crank from bb. Just take 4 bolt out of chainring and ring comes right off over crank arm and pedal. Takes me 2 minutes to change 30 to 32 ring.


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## campergf23 (Aug 4, 2013)

Oh so your not using a direct mount that's what confused me


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

The ring is made to only go on the spider one way. The ring has one larger space on ring so it can slide behind spider. Than you turn it so all the holes line up, the bolts thread directly into the ring. The chainrings are light too 32 tooth 49g. You can see the offset in pict.


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## profro (Mar 6, 2006)

*OneUp*

Went with the OneUp and after 3 rides, I am very happy. all new drivetrain as I was still on 9spd. No complaints so far.


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## Unforgiving (Sep 26, 2012)

profro said:


> Went with the OneUp and after 3 rides, I am very happy. all new drivetrain as I was still on 9spd. No complaints so far.
> 
> View attachment 878019


 does your chain fall off when you back pedal as reported ?


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## rzat (Sep 1, 2012)

profro said:


> Went with the OneUp and after 3 rides, I am very happy. all new drivetrain as I was still on 9spd. No complaints so far.
> 
> View attachment 878019


What is your front cog size? I got same SLX cranks and someone mentioned 32 is minimum...

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

*Riding report*



bapski said:


> ditched the 11T and shifting is perfect. the chain still drops from 42T when back-pedalling. hopefully i get the same results off the stand and in the trails..


After 250+ miles riding and with slight adjustment my chain never drops anymore when back pedaling. Even my friend noticed I have less issues with shifting while riding by 80% than my old 3 x 10 shimano set-up. Wolfstooth 42T is going to stay my regular set-up.


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## xhailofgunfirex (Jun 25, 2008)

rzat said:


> What is your front cog size? I got same SLX cranks and someone mentioned 32 is minimum...
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


I have SLX 2x cranks and running a RF 30t, works fine, since the 30 is offset there is no issue.


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## FunWithBikes (Apr 30, 2010)

Is anyone running a 28 front - 42 rear on their setup?

The 28 would have to go on the inside since I don't believe a 28 104bcd exists. I'm curious about how the chain line works with the 28 - 11

I have a 3x10 right now but the idea of ditching the front der. is appealing. I ride in Colorado and we have a lot of steep rocky climbs so I use my 22 - 36 often, especially at high altitude. The 28 - 42 is almost as low, it's actually the same as the 24 - 36 shimano 10 speed setups have. A 30 - 42 might be too much of a sacrifice. I like that bonk gearing especially for those last hills on an all day epic ride.

I rode with a friend over the weekend who has the XO 1x11 with a 28t chainring. Seems like a nice setup but too pricey right now.


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

I get away with spinning a 30t. It's not quite as forgiving as my old 24x36, but pretty damned close. 

The stealthy descents are my reward.


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

dgw7000 said:


> ...
> I other thing when its time to go 11 speed, I already have the crank. This is what I'm doing now, I have the XO1 derail and shifter...


Cable up that XO1 rear der to a SRAM 10spd rear shifter and a wolftooth/oneup converted cassette, tell us how it works. In the name of science.

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

Nope 28t 104 bcd doesn't exist, direct mount only.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I rode a 30t with a 11-36 cassette and it was fine, with a 42 cog its way to easy to pedal. I'll be moving to a larger front ring pretty soon, theres no reason to be geared that low.


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

Because math


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

My WT42 in Red arrived today! Psyched to install it tonight.

When I dropped the 2x10 (26/38+11-34) on my 5.7C, I initially went with a 35t + 11-36 cassette. This proved to be OK for 90% of the local riding in Sydney, but when I got to any big hills it turned out to be a bit too tall  I was getting up the hills, but tiring out very quickly!

I then dropped to a 32t on the front, which was kind of OK for short pitches, but still a bit too much for long steep climbing.

So, now with the WT 42t, I'm going to install the 35t back on the front and have almost the same range as my original 2x10 system! A couple of gear inches between either end, but quite happy with the final ratios on paper 

I'll be using the current 11-36 casette, but putting new X9 Type 2 plus a new hanger, as they both took a beating on the last weekend! They're mostly straight, but from reading the thread so far, even small issues with tolerance may cause dramas.

Will update later once I've got the install done!


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

fishwrinkle said:


> Nope 28t 104 bcd doesn't exist, direct mount only.


Absolute Black is supposed to come out with a 64 bcd 28T.

XX1 STYLE - Shimano


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## mobes (Feb 6, 2014)

A quick note to anyone wanting to do the conversion with SRAM and wanting to even up their gear spacing. I started with a 11-36 PG-1050, and I'm pleased to say that the 16T from a 12-26 PG-1070 fit perfectly, replacing the 15T and 17T, with proper ramp indexing. No need to rotate 180 degrees like with Shimano. I don't know if all the 16T cogs are the same, but at least the one from the 12-26 works. PG-1050 or PG-1070 shouldn't matter - the only difference seems to be in the spacers (plastic on 1050, alloy on 1070) and lockrings (steel on 1050, alloy on 1070).

Original gearing:
11-13-15-17-19-22-25-28-32-36
Original spacing:
2-2-2-2-3-3-3-4-4

New gearing w/ 17T removed:
11-13-15-19-22-25-28-32-36-42
New spacing w/ 17T removed:
2-2-4-3-3-3-4-4-6

New gearing w/16T:
11-13-16-19-22-25-28-32-36-42
New spacing w/16T:
2-3-3-3-3-3-4-4-6

The main reason I chose to go with a SRAM cassette is the ability to swap the 16T to even up the ratios. With the Shimano, in place of the 22T and 25T of the SRAM are a 21T and 24T. This means swapping the 16T into a Shimano gets you 2-3-3-2-3-4-4-4-6, which is better than leaving the 15T but I'd still prefer the SRAM spacing. Of course, in practice, it's probably negligible. Ideally for the Shimano, you'd be able to swap the 19T and 21T for a 20T, but they are on a spider so no luck there.

Sadly this is for a new build and my frame is still on order so I haven't been able to try it out yet, but I'm very eager to.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Has anyone tried a 16T Miche on Shimano?
Does it work alright?


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## mobes (Feb 6, 2014)

jazzanova said:


> Has anyone tried a 16T Miche on Shimano?
> Does it work alright?


Looks like it's a no-go:
http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/budget-xx1-866979-5.html#post10700938

Though it may just require the same indexing treatment as the Shimano.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

mobes said:


> Looks like it's a no-go:
> http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/budget-xx1-866979-5.html#post10700938
> 
> Though it may just require the same indexing treatment as the Shimano.


Hmm, he used it on a Sram cassette. I wonder if it is going be different for Shimano...


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## mayonays (Oct 22, 2010)

jazzanova said:


> Hmm, he used it on a Sram cassette. I wonder if it is going be different for Shimano...


I was looking into this route as well, but it seems like others in that thread had issues with the Miche cog. And from the sounds of it, even sourcing a 16T Shimano cog from a M770 cassette doesn't help much either.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

jazzanova said:


> Has anyone tried a 16T Miche on Shimano?
> Does it work alright?


We have tried the Miche 16T and it does not work well -- not recommended. However, the SRAM 16T works pretty well on Shimano or SRAM cassettes. Not perfect but acceptable shifting. One of our testers has also had pretty good luck with a 9 speed Shimano 16T cog in a 10-speed cassette too.
Mike


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

WolfTooth said:


> One of our testers has also had pretty good luck with a 9 speed Shimano 16T cog in a 10-speed cassette too.
> Mike


I feel better now about trying this out now.
I got a 16T cog I plan on taking from a 9 speed Shimano HG61 cassette and putting on my Sram PG-30.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

So my first update!

Got my WT 42t installed this evening. Have gone back to my 35t E13 Guide Ring (up from 32t), using the existing Shimano 11-36t cassette and removing the 17t cog. I've used a brand new X9 Type 2 and a new KMC X10SL Gold Chain 112 links.

I've also got a C-Guide still installed.

Wound the B-Tension screw in a bit, but there's a still some room left. I found that further out and I would get some binding when trying to up shift, further in and the shifting was terrible on from the 15 to 19.

At full compression there's zero extra chain room, but on the 36t there's a bit of extra room, I'm happy with that as it will be a "bail-out" gear only and the chances of hitting full compression in that gear are incredibly minimal 

This has all been "On the stand" so far, but I'm heading out for a decent ride tomorrow with some killer hills, so I'll be able to update with a ride report tomorrow!


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## Unforgiving (Sep 26, 2012)

Sweet cant wait to hear how it performed!


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

i don't understand why more ppl don't just drop the 11T and get a new lockring and not worry about the stupid 16/17T?


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## Doba (Nov 29, 2008)

A lot of people running these are on 1x drivetrains. You already sacrifice top end if you are running a 30/32t chainring. Dropping the 11t off the cassette would hinder your top end further.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

For the extra $100, it was worth it to me to go with:


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

fishwrinkle said:


> i don't understand why more ppl don't just drop the 11T and get a new lockring and not worry about the stupid 16/17T?


Mainly as the idea of whacking this ungodly large sprocket on the cassette is to *gain* range, not lose it  It if was just to get an easier climbing gear, I'd just go with a smaller front chainring, which would be both easier and cheaper!

The places I ride combine steep climbs, steep descents as well as plenty of fast, open trail, so dropping the 11t doesn't make any sense, and you would end up with less range over all. Going with this combo (35t front, 11-42t cassette), gives me almost the same range as my 26-38 double ring with a 11-34 cassette, but without the worry of the front derailleur.

Have a look on Sheldon Brown, as it's got a great gear ratio calculator that will show you why there's no point dropping the 11t.


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## Aszors (Dec 11, 2013)

TwoTone said:


> For the extra $100, it was worth it to me to go with:
> View attachment 878606


Where did you find that?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Aszors said:


> Where did you find that?


It's the General Lee. I ordered from Bagnoli Bike in Portugal. It was $213 shipped and only took a week to get here.


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## Aszors (Dec 11, 2013)

TwoTone said:


> It's the General Lee. I ordered from Bagnoli Bike in Portugal. It was $213 shipped and only took a week to get here.


Thanks! Let me know after a ride report! I have no experience with general lee, have read mixed reviews on them but hadn't actually even seen a pic of one! Does look good tho!


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

Yeah I guess dropping the 11 or 17 is terrain dependent. Where I ride it makes more sense to drop the top end. Only place I use the 11 is 3 hrs north of me at a ski hill and I have a newer slx cassette in 2 clusters so makes sense for me to drop the 11


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

40 tooth Twenty6 cog just came in, check it out !!


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## Aszors (Dec 11, 2013)

dgw7000 said:


> 40 tooth Twenty6 cog just came in, check it out !!


Looks pretty good! Let us know how it is after a ride report!


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## LB412 (Nov 28, 2012)

What is that?


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## literally (Apr 14, 2013)

LB412 said:


> What is that?


40 tooth Twenty6 cog


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Twenty6 makes some great stuff, 7075 alloy. 68 grams


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## Tourendo (Jan 22, 2004)

fishwrinkle said:


> i don't understand why more ppl don't just drop the 11T and get a new lockring and not worry about the stupid 16/17T?


AFAIK a 10speed - 13t lockring doesn't exist, except maybe aftermarket from Miche (which would probably shift like crap) .

IMO the 15-19 shift isn't a dealbreaker, from 19 down to 15 it clunks a little due to the bigger jump, but is quick enough . 
Going up 15 to 19 it hesitates sometimes , pushing on the shifter lever after the shift helps the chain make the jump up quicker.


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## Golf_Chick (Aug 22, 2013)

We ordered a 9 speed 16T from rosebikes and fit them to our 11/36T cassette with the new hope 40t-rex adapters in it. Cant even tell its not standard and rides perfectly. For me I'd never get rid of the 11T, im tempted to go to a 32T up front now as depending where I am depends if Im spinning out or not. Its touch and go at some places, especially my local woods as summer comes. I definitely go into the 11T now Im single ring anyway. All comes down to where you ride and your setup as to whether you're prepared to compromise I guess.


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## Tourendo (Jan 22, 2004)

^^^ I might scavenge a 16t from a 9s Ultegra cassette, but not until I get more trail time on my setup. Although the ratios would be better, I'm not convinced the shifting will be improved. Did you compare shifting differences between the 15 to 19 and 13-16-19 setups.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

I guess I will dremel some rivets and experiment with 11 and 15. Yes they do make a 13 lock ring absolute black will supply it when they release their 40 and I found one on eBay. I didn't order it due to the fact they want $40 for it. I also ss (32x18 29er) so the deletion of the 11 isn't a biggie for me


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

winsail said:


> After 250+ miles riding and with slight adjustment my chain never drops anymore when back pedaling. Even my friend noticed I have less issues with shifting while riding by 80% than my old 3 x 10 shimano set-up. Wolfstooth 42T is going to stay my regular set-up.


Mind sharing that slight adjustment?

I have not had the opportunity to ride my 42WT setup yet. Hopefully soon.


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## misooscar (Sep 22, 2008)

42t one up installed easily on shimano xt m771 cassette, 30t race face nw, shifts just as good as my replaced slx 11-36 with the 30t rf

Also using Shimano XT long cage with clutch

B screw adjustment almost all the way in










Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


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## myitch (Jan 25, 2004)

misooscar said:


> 42t one up installed easily on shimano xt m771 cassette, 30t race face nw, shifts just as good as my replaced slx 11-36 with the 30t rf
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


My exact setup too. Shifts good. Drops down when back pedaling though.


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## Drybear (Jul 27, 2013)

myitch said:


> My exact setup too. Shifts good. Drops down when back pedaling though.


I have the same setup too but have problems with shifting from 16-19.
No problems with back padalling, can my problems be related to the chainline (47mm)?


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

Isildur said:


> So my first update!
> 
> Got my WT 42t installed this evening. Have gone back to my 35t E13 Guide Ring (up from 32t), using the existing Shimano 11-36t cassette and removing the 17t cog. I've used a brand new X9 Type 2 and a new KMC X10SL Gold Chain 112 links.
> 
> ...


First ride report - very bloody happy!

Did a shortish ride today, 24km or so, but with lots of climbing. The ride has 550m of climbing, with 700m descent, with a short shuttle at the end. Most of the climbing happens in steep, short pitches (one, for instance, is 90m vertical over less than 1km).

Other than sorting out a little bit of cable stretch at the start, the setup worked flawlessly. No hesitation going up or down in any gear, and was able to get a couple of back pedals in to sort out foot positioning.

The 15t/19t change was noticeable, but as most of the riding around here for the 5.7C is basically climbing a few minutes and then descending a few minutes, it's not a problem at all. On the undulating terrain it just required more power 

Very happy indeed  Now, all that WT need to do is release a Green Ring and it will all match up perfectly. I noticed yesterday a Blue option was added, so hopefully the Green isn't far away (and yes, I know that OneUp do a Green, but I prefer the cassette specific design of the WT).

If anyone wants more detailed info on my setup, just sing out!

So, my conclusion, if you have a SRAM Type2 shifter/derailleur, *just do it!!  *


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Got it set up in about 20 minutes, back pedals perfect. Shifting really good !! Went for a short 1 hour ride about 6.5 miles with 1 big long climb. I removed the 17 tooth and did not add any chain. If I would have, chain would be way too loose in 11th cog. I have a 28 tooth front chain ring, this 40 tooth from Twenty6 is well made. The total weight I gained was 48 grams, the 17 tooth with spacer was 20 grams and 40 tooth was 68 grams. At 95 bucks for cog and being able to keep my ZEE derail. this I feel was well worth it. Going out tomorrow for about 3.5, this will be the real test !!


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

dgw7000 said:


> Got it set up in about 20 minutes, back pedals perfect. Shifting really good !! Went for a short 1 hour ride about 6.5 miles with 1 big long climb. I removed the 17 tooth and did not add any chain. If I would have, chain would be way too loose in 11th cog. I have a 28 tooth front chain ring, this 40 tooth from Twenty6 is well made. The total weight I gained was 48 grams, the 17 tooth with spacer was 20 grams and 40 tooth was 68 grams. At 95 bucks for cog and being able to keep my ZEE derail. this I feel was well worth it. Going out tomorrow for about 3.5, this will be the real test !!


Did you see what happens when the suspension is fully compress and you are in the 40T cog? Chain looks tight. Some suspensions require two extra chain links for the suspension movement. I don't know about this bike, but on VPP you have to measure the chain slack with the suspension fully compressed, or you have a drivetrain disaster in the making.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

dgw7000, where did you buy this?


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I did let the air out of shock, than compressed all the way. Remember this is a short cage derail. Should be ok it's only 95mm rear travel. We'll see tomorrow !! Also when your in the 40 tooth cog your just climbing.

Twenty6 products.com no info on site yet, but click the facebook section on site. Call them a buy direct, they make the best pedals you can buy!! If your into flat pedals, also make a great 50mm stem in all colors.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

what's the price?


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

dgw7000 said:


> Remember this is a short cage derail.


That's probably cc's observation based on short cage/short chain setup. Typically need a little more play. Awesome setup tho!


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

They make 40 and 42 tooth, for 95.00 bucks. Thanks for the props JMac47!!


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

thx dgw. i think i'm going to wait for absolute black though


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

Just an fyi for you sram users..ab ain't making a sram version..bummer

Sent from my GT-B5330 using Tapatalk


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

"Twenty6" 40 tooth works really good, over 17 miles today. On long rocky, steep tech. climbs having this 40 tooth cog is so nice. Shifting is really about the same as before the cog was added. I did remove my derail. and adjust hanger before I went out today, it was slightly off. Highly recommend this upgrade to everyone !! Also no wear on cog at all.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

rfxc said:


> Cable up that XO1 rear der to a SRAM 10spd rear shifter and a wolftooth/oneup converted cassette, tell us how it works. In the name of science.
> 
> Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk


Yes. This is what I'm most curious to know. xo1 rear derailleurs are coming down in price, and may make for a flawless 1x system a fraction of the cost.


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## ctopher63 (Aug 7, 2011)

rfxc said:


> Cable up that XO1 rear der to a SRAM 10spd rear shifter and a wolftooth/oneup converted cassette, tell us how it works. In the name of science.
> 
> Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk


I did this and it doesn't work. The indexing of the 10 speed shifter is different than the 11 speed. I also tried the X01 shifter with X01 derailer and it shifts but not any better ,maybe worse, than the X9 T2. This was with both a shimano GL40 and WT42.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

ctopher63 said:


> I did this and it doesn't work. The indexing of the 10 speed shifter is different than the 11 speed. I also tried the X01 shifter with X01 derailer and it shifts but not any better ,maybe worse, than the X9 T2. This was with both a shimano GL40 and WT42.


Ah..good to know. I just assumed that the xo1 derailleur was the same 1:1 ratio as the rest of sram shifters. Makes sense it's not I guess as it may need to move less per shift to accommodate 11speed spacing.


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

I've got a WT GC for Shimano I'd like to pass on to a new home. Going to wait for a 40t. PM me if interested.


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

Just curious..why are you opting for a 40T?

Sent from my GT-B5330 using Tapatalk


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## FunWithBikes (Apr 30, 2010)

FunWithBikes said:


> Is anyone running a 28 front - 42 rear on their setup?
> 
> The 28 would have to go on the inside since I don't believe a 28 104bcd exists. I'm curious about how the chain line works with the 28 - 11


For those who are interested, Absolute Black is coming out with a 28t narrow wide 64bcd chainring soon, not on website yet. I just heard back from them. For converting a 3x10 I think the inner 64bcd gives a better chain line.

Also, I noticed this warning on the Wolf Tooth website:

"Note: the GC is not compatible with 2011 or older SRAM rear derailleurs due to the location of the upper jockey wheel. It is difficult or impossible to get satisfactory shifting with the 2011 or older SRAM rear derailleurs so we do not recommend using the GC if you have one of these. The GC works great with the newer SRAM rear derailleurs however."

Has anyone had problems with their SRAM derailleurs?

I bought my bike in early 2012 so I have no idea if my der. is a 2011. How do you tell?


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

does it have a clutch?


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## FunWithBikes (Apr 30, 2010)

fishwrinkle said:


> does it have a clutch?


No clutch.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

FunWithBikes said:


> No clutch.


Have a look on the back of the derailleur cage. My latest Type 2 had a batch # and production date stamped/printed on the back side of the cage.

Whether that is on yours and is still visible, I'm not sure, but worth a look!


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## FunWithBikes (Apr 30, 2010)

Isildur said:


> Have a look on the back of the derailleur cage. My latest Type 2 had a batch # and production date stamped/printed on the back side of the cage.
> 
> Whether that is on yours and is still visible, I'm not sure, but worth a look!


Thanks. It's kinda hard to read but it looks like the end says "FEB12"

I assume this means its from Feb 2012? I bought the bike in Mar 2012.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

Yep, that would be a valid assumption I reckon!


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

Just got my Hope 40t, and thought 18t to replace 17&19 would give the sweetest steps. I have 16&18t 9sp deore cogs and SLX 10s, so just 5 mins work to drill out the SLX pins and file out the alignment notch in the cogs to get ramps lined up.
But shifting is rubbish from the 18t to the 21t (the 40t is absolutely fine, even with short cage der).

Best I can get is one shift point per revolution instead of two - the reason is the jump between cogs has gone from 2 to 3, and if you look at cogs at top of a 3cog shift they have 3 ramps, not two - because that's how the teeth line up. So I don't expect a 16t to do much better. 

Dropping the 17 or 15 should shift better as the teeth line up still even thought the jump is 4. 

One far out option is to take my old 11-36 9sp mash-up (12-36+11-34) which worked fine, and use the whole 11-24 range with 10s spacers. Otherwise Sram looks like it might offer better option of dropping the 12t or 11t. 

I have a shimano chain btw - interested to hear if SRAM chains work any better on these bodged shifts.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

42 WT on Shimano XTR and medium Sram XO clutch.
Up and down from 42 works fine. Backpedaling will drop the chain down after 1/2 crank rotation.
There is some hesitation going up to 19 from 15. I am waiting for 16T cog from 9 speed XT.
Sram XO short clutch RD dis not work right for me, the problem was with chain getting it down from 42T.
KMC gold 10 speed chain and 30T WT direct mount on XO crank.
Santa Cruz TRc (16.9" CS)


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## Faulker479 (Mar 30, 2012)

al-r said:


> AFAIK a 10speed - 13t lockring doesn't exist, except maybe aftermarket from Miche (which would probably shift like crap) .
> 
> IMO the 15-19 shift isn't a dealbreaker, from 19 down to 15 it clunks a little due to the bigger jump, but is quick enough .
> Going up 15 to 19 it hesitates sometimes , pushing on the shifter lever after the shift helps the chain make the jump up quicker.


I got my WT 42 for my M771 as well as a Miche 13 lockring yesterday. i installed the 42t saturday after my ride and with limited riding to my moms house(lastnight) and working the gears, i didnt like the hesitations that i felt on the 15 to 19. When i got home, i checked the mail and there was the 13t. i installed it and rode up and down the street breifly. it shift pretty good. The thing that bothers me at this point is the M771 lock ring doesn't cover the full span of the groves on the 13. i have a few lock rings(all shimano) that i am going to see if they cover more of the groves. my first real test will be tonight. it rained yesterday and i will only be able to ride black top, but there are hills on the trail i will be going on. i will report back to let you know how the new 13t performs.

i, like others, dont use the 11t that much. i have a 30t and 34t NW that i will be using and when using the 34t, i hardly ever need the 11t. that is why i opted to remove it and have better shifting and the 17t( with the 34t gives me a 2:1 ratio).

Edit: fixed a sentence. Also don't know why I "need" the 2:1 ratio


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## Lindahl (Aug 9, 2011)

Faulker479 said:


> I got my WT 42 for my M771 as well as a Miche 13 lockring. i installed the 42t saturday after my ride and with limited riding to my moms house(lastnight) and working the gears, i didnt like the hesitations that i felt on the 15 to 19. When i got home, i checked the mail and there was the 13t. i installed it and rode up and down the street breifly. it shift pretty good. The thing to not is the M771 lock ring doesn't cover the full span of the groves on the 13. i have a few lock rings(all shimano) that i am going to see if they cover move of the groves. my first real test will be tonight. it rained yesterday and i will only be able to ride black top, but there are hills on the trail i will be going on. i will report back to let you know how the new 13t performs.
> 
> i, like others, dont use the 11t that much. i have a 30t and 34t NW that i will be using and when using the 34t, i hardly ever need the 11t. that is why i opted to remove it and have better shifting and the 17t( with the 34t gives me a 2:1 ratio).


You do know that a 28x11-36 is about the same as 34x13-42, right? Sounds like a big waste of money to me...?


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Lindahl said:


> You do know that a 28x11-36 is about the same as 34x13-42, right? Sounds like a big waste of money to me...?


Not if the suspension doesn't perform very good with 28T.
I would reather have 32x42 combo than 28x36.


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

bosbik said:


> Just curious..why are you opting for a 40T?
> 
> Sent from my GT-B5330 using Tapatalk


I'm going back to a Zee and it won't handle 42. I'm hard on derailleurs and have managed to destroy 2 XTs last year and 2 more recently. I used a Zee after trashing the XTs last year and never had another problem. I'll miss the range offered by the 42, however.


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## Faulker479 (Mar 30, 2012)

Originally Posted by Lindahl 
You do know that a 28x11-36 is about the same as 34x13-42, right? Sounds like a big waste of money to me...?


I had not done the math on a 28t. But that is not an option since i have 104 bcd cranks. To be honest, the whole converting from a 3x10 can be looked at as(and probably is) a big waste of money..... but here i am, tinkering and enjoying it.

Edited to add quote so others would know what I was talking about


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I definitely agree about the ZEE derail. I also had problem's with other derail. like Sram x9 type 2 midcage and Shimano xt mid with clutch. They would get knocked out of place and bend. I was looking at a local bike builder web page, "Engine" in Phil. PA. Some of picts of his 1x10 bikes he was using the ZEE derail. I called them they said we have one in stock bring your bike we will install it for free. That was about 6 months ago and have never had a problem since!! That was also the 1st time I ever had a shop install a part for me. The 40 tooth on rear, with the ZEE derail. and 28 chain ring up front is the perfect combo, I removed the 17 from cassette. The ZEE only cost 75 bucks !!


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

yeah zee's are cheap and pretty close to bomb proof, i love mine. bounce it off rocks and no need to adjust or tweak, setup outta the box was easy peasy. it's the timex of RD's


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## tskubi (Mar 21, 2011)

Ain't no better way to spend a rainy week-end but dealing with a well organised workshop and some new toys  


First, unwrap the toys : 


Then, 
Garbaruk Cassette Xtender : 
29/35/42 @ 120g, it is 5g less than anounced on their website. 



An Oval Chainring, narrow/wide type again from Garbaruk Melon : 
34 teeth @ 48g, 1g under weight announced.
The precision machining is absolutely stunning !


Let's setup everything for this one :



Thanks Yuriy from Garbaruk team for the cautious packing  
As far as I am concerned, this prouves despite the revolution going on in Ukraine, the post office and some kick ass compagny are still going strong.

Here is my review from last weekend ride with the new products.

Riding again a 1x10 and futhermore with an oval crank is a real pleasure due to its simplicity and true effectivness.

*Garbaruk Melon : 
*

- not a single chain drop
- the black anodisation hold on (for the moment)
- the long XX1 type teeth grab everything from the ground
- Oval crank feels like being one teeth easyer than usual.
- the crank is way less loud than its wolftooth predecessor, I don't know why.
Bottom line : Approved !

*The Xtender : 
*

I didn't set it up as garbaruk told me to. instead of using an XT or SLX cassette, I used an XTR 11/34, lost the top two linked cogs and took off the 17th. I installed the Xtender and Garbaruk spacer AND a second 1/2mm spacer to correct the width trouble I created by using XTR instead of XT. I wouldn't have need to use this 2nd spacer with XT or SLX.
*Beware ! *you need to use a longuer tension derailleur screw in order to get the derailleur away from the 42th.
(red in the picture)

Once all setup : 
- the single issue is going from cog 15 to cog 19 on the Xtr side. But no big deal : I'll exchange it for some DA alternative
- the Xtender realy works like a charm, even from 26th (XTR) to 29th (Xtender)
- chain goes up & down easily
- shifting from 29th towards 35th is normal, like towards 42th. I'd love to tell you it is hard and difficult but it ain't so 
- there is a particular alloy sound when the chain goes on the Xtender, you'll get used to it  
I ended up forgetting about it and rode without thinking about my shifting. This thing is stunning, I love it ! 
We'll see if it holds in time, today after a few rides I does not show any sign of wear.
Good job Garbaruk !

I also managed to get rid of the front derailleur support : gain a few grams & easier to clean.


hope my english wasn't that bad. 
cheers !
Tom


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

tskubi said:


> Ain't no better way to spend a rainy week-end but dealing with a well organised workshop and some new toys
> 
> First, unwrap the toys :
> 
> ...


Looks like a copy of the General Lee, while cheaper. Not trying to bash a product, but the tooth profile and ramps looks better on the GL I have sitting on my desk.


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## PretendGentleman (May 24, 2011)

I set my oneup 42t with sram 1030 11-36 cass and sram x9 t2 med and 1030 chain and up front I have a 32t narrowwide. I have only ridden around the neighborhood, but everything feels absolutely perfect. I can rapidly spin the cranks backwards in the 42t and the chain doesn't fall off. My only concern with it being on my krampus is that the chain will bump the tire as it's returning on the bottom side. Shouldn't be a big deal since using the 42 is for slow speeds. Prior to the change, I had the 17t removed and placed behind the 36t for more chainline clearance. Despite running b-screw all the way in, shifting in the tall gears on my first easy ride around was perfect. 
I think pics are important for people trying to judge before purchasing whether their setup will work well. Notice the axle is a good bit in front of the der mount bolt. maybe that matters. I also did not remove any links from the chain. shortening the chain moves the pulley away from the smaller cogs, leading to less chain wrap and thus more sluggish shifting and potential wear/slipping problems. Long ride tonight when I get off work at the shop.


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## D(C) (Jun 17, 2013)

I'm just in the process of setting up my 42t GC and am wondering about chain length vs. b-screw tension. The issue I'm having is that, unless I really crank down the b-screw, the cage of my XT Shadow+ snags on the 42t cog as the cage is pulled forward.

So how do I determine the correct chain length? The longer chain I go with, the less b-screw tension I'll need to run. How much b-screw tension is too much?


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

You have no choice really.Max out the B screw, then lengthen the chain if still having issues


Pedaling


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## D(C) (Jun 17, 2013)

One more piece of info, I'm running a longer 25 mm b-screw since I couldn't get enough clearance with the stock one. Should I tighten it enough to get the cage as far forward as I would have with 11-36 or should I run a slightly longer chain?

How do I know if I've gone overboard with b-screw?


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

Personally I'd lengthen the chain and give it a try. The less strain on the der the better. Still too early to say weather the der will hold up over time in a stressed position


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

I have the same derailleur on my set-up with 42T Wolfstooth have ridden over 300 miles now. I have 116 links in my KMC X10SL chain and it is shifting perfectly with medium tension on b-screw. Hope that helps...


D(C) said:


> I'm just in the process of setting up my 42t GC and am wondering about chain length vs. b-screw tension. The issue I'm having is that, unless I really crank down the b-screw, the cage of my XT Shadow+ snags on the 42t cog as the cage is pulled forward.
> 
> So how do I determine the correct chain length? The longer chain I go with, the less b-screw tension I'll need to run. How much b-screw tension is too much?


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## Jeepnut22 (Jul 16, 2008)

Wondering the best way to go on this with regards to the chain ring up front. With the Wolf Tooth direction, I can order the front cog with the integrated spider and replace my 2x spider and chain rings, OR get the R/F Narrow Wide (or similar) chain ring and pull the 2x chain rings off and bolt that on....

Is one way or another better for chain line? One way more durable/stiff? Any other considerations going one way or the other?

Running a SRAM 1080 cassette 11-36 and an X0 Type 2 RD. Crankset is a SRAM Carbon S-2200, 10-speed XC double, GXP spindle, removeable spider...


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

you can get down to a 26t ring with direct mount & on my x9 cranks with the direct mount the chain line is in the middle of the cassette.


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## Jeepnut22 (Jul 16, 2008)

Planning on a 32T, but either way looking for which would be best; direct mount or bolt on...


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Direct mount weights less and has less parts, so more durable (though spiders rarely cause problems).


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Jeepnut22 said:


> Planning on a 32T, but either way looking for which would be best; direct mount or bolt on...


If I had a choice (which I didn't)...I would do the direct mount. You get a much cleaner install. OTOH...a bolt on will allow you to space the ring slightly if you need to fine tune your chainline. Which I've seen people do.


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## Tuono (Apr 24, 2013)

*Wolf Tooth 42t bal out gear*

Mounted on a '12 Nomad- Using Shimano Shadow+ Derailleur and XT cassette w/ King hub and a SRAM chain.
My first foray into derailleur adjustment and trying to do it without following the instructions on the Wolf Tooth Web site was a mistake on my part. Wolf Tooth no longer supplies the longer B tensioning screw- and if you want one you can order one from them or grab one from a local hardware store. My application may not have needed it, but I like the versatility of having one none the less, so I went ahead and bought one from the local hardware store.
Once I reached complete frustration, I read the directions and followed them to a T and they worked great.
Because of the final position of the B tensioning screw, Wolf Tooth has stated that the shifting drawback occurs in the small gears and the drawback is imprecise shifting from the smaller to the bigger cogs. I notice this when going from the 15 to the 19. Because these are trail riding gears for me, I do shift in this range frequently and that soft shifting drove me nuts, so I went ahead and removed the 15T instead of the 17. The system shifts perfectly from the 42 all the way to the 17 and back. There is perfect shifting behavior from the 42 to the 36. In fact, I would not go with a 40. The 42 works really well.
Omitting the 15 rather than the 17: The large gear jump happens at the tail end of the gear spectrum rather than closer to the middle; which means that for 80% of my riding- the set up shits perfectly. For the remaining 20 percent the shifting still works well, with some jumping when going from small to large. I noticed no problem shifting from large to small. Interestingly, when shifting from a small cog to larger cogs, I usually am preparing for a climb, so I shift two or three gears anyway which completely skipped over the trouble area. I found this set-up to be completely functional. 
Moving from an older XT to a clutch XT and wolf tooth narrow/wide: I love it. Its quiet, simple, easy to maintain and keep clean and worked without a chain jump over some pretty technical terrain.
Overall grade for all of the stuff from the cassette to the cogs: A


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## mmanuel09 (Nov 26, 2008)

Tuono, I was thinking the same thing as I've been on this conversion for more than a month now. I find myself needing more low end but when I click into the 15 t I would immediately go back up. I think I would rather ditch the 15th since that's more of a sprinter's gear rather than trail riding. I'm going to try that out. Thanks.


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## Tuono (Apr 24, 2013)

Mmanuel- Right on! I suppose that keeping the 15T might make me a bad ass, but then, how would I be able to fit my massive quads into my suit pants for work! Alas, I am relegated to being the leggless mountain biker that I am.


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## Verbl Kint (Feb 14, 2013)

So is the Wolf Tooth really better than the Hope and OneUp?

Posted using Tapatalk


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## Tuono (Apr 24, 2013)

Verbl Kint said:


> So is the Wolf Tooth really better than the Hope and OneUp?
> 
> Posted using Tapatalk


I cant speak for either of those two companies. Have not tried either. The wolftooth is a few grams heavier. The wolf tooth is excellent, and if we are only comparing their shift qualities, the wolf tooth works as good or better than the shimano stock cassette imo.


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## StuLax18 (Sep 27, 2011)

Finally got mine on (Wolftooth 42T SRAM) and the only two issues I have is that if I backpedal in the 42T it wants to drop down a couple cogs, but doesn't do anything other than make noise. Good thing is I should almost never need to backpedal in that cog. Other issue is that the 19T to 15T I think it is ends up being a big jump with the 34T I have up front. In other words if I'm on the 19T it seems too easy to pedal, but the 15T ends up too difficult for what I'm riding. Not a huge issue, in that the much wider spread is possibly worth the lack of having a perfect gear all the time. Might be going to a 36T up front as well. If you can swap out more cogs in the rear that might be a good option.

Setup:
34T RaceFace N/W
KMC X10SL chain
PG-1070 (X9) 11-36 cassette
SRAM X9 type 2 derailleur


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## SirSlow (Mar 31, 2014)

I have converted two of my bikes using WT NW 30t front and GC rear. Bike # one has a Sram X9 clutch. I got it to shift well after fooling with B, cable, and chain tension. After a a trial run I liked it enough to convert bike # two. This bike has a Shimano SLX shadow rear and I set it up with the same WT components. This bike shifted kind of poorly on the stand but better on the trail. I then swapped the regular shift cable and guide with a Shimano Dura Ace poly cable and it made a world of difference. So much smoother! One further note. I used a 10 speed chain on bike 1 and I get the chain drop from the GC when I spin the cranks backwards. On bike 2 I used an 11 speed chian and get no chain drop when spinning backwards. I don't know if this has to do with the chain or the chainline.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

SirSlow said:


> I used a 10 speed chain on bike 1 and I get the chain drop from the GC when I spin the cranks backwards. On bike 2 I used an 11 speed chian and get no chain drop when spinning backwards. I don't know if this has to do with the chain or the chainline.


I asked wolftooth if there were any benefits of using an 11-spd chain on a 10spd drivetrain and was told 10 & 11 speed chains have the same dimensions between inner plates, so there shouldn't be any functional difference with retention....


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## literally (Apr 14, 2013)

Hope you guys don't mind me throwing this in here.

just installed a hope 40t with a sram 11-36 (15 & 17 replaced with 16t, also tried using a 12t instead of the 11t), type II short cage, new kmc x10 sl chain and nsb 30t front ring and had a few questions.

did the standard big big to size the chain and it really struggled to get into the 40t. added a link and the 40t works and looks good but when in the 11t there is too much slack and the chain rubs the der. messed with the b tension and found that with it screwed in a bit more shifting is better and i have a little more wiggle room with the der while in the 40t. the sram short cage is rated for the gap on the cassette with both the 11 and 12t but i'm wondering if i'll really need a med cage for this setup.

thanks all...

pics here: 40t - Imgur


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

literally said:


> Hope you guys don't mind me throwing this in here.
> 
> just installed a hope 40t with a sram 11-36 (15 & 17 replaced with 16t, also tried using a 12t instead of the 11t), type II short cage, new kmc x10 sl chain and nsb 30t front ring and had a few questions.
> 
> ...


SC TRc 125mm
42 WT 
Xtr cassette
30 WT direct gxp mount
Kmc 10 speed chain
17T removed (waiting for a 16T)

Short Sram xo did not work right with the 42cog, lot of hesitation going down...
Medium Sram xo works much better.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

literally said:


> Hope you guys don't mind me throwing this in here.
> 
> just installed a hope 40t with a sram 11-36 (15 & 17 replaced with 16t, also tried using a 12t instead of the 11t), type II short cage, new kmc x10 sl chain and nsb 30t front ring and had a few questions.
> 
> ...


With Shimano short cage and Hope 40t I found works OK - my chain's shorter than yours though. Can't say for sure how Sram goes, but all you can try is take out enough links to work on the 11t and see if you can adjust the b-screw to get shifting off the 40t.


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

I installed the OneUp 42 tooth a few days ago. I'm running a RDM 985 XTR w/Shadow+ derailleur, a M771-10 11-36 XT cassette and an XT shifter with a KMC XXSP X 10 chain. 

With adding a couple of links to the chain using the big to big + 4 method I got enough length, I was able to remove the plastic part to get enough travel from my stock B screw. The big issue came from the inner cage on the derailleur hitting either the 42 tooth cog on the way up or down preventing shifting. I did notice that that area of the cage was worn and sharp from hitting cogs when it was an 11-36, hence the source of noise I had since I built the bike, that no one could find. So to make it work I had to mill off part of the inner cage where it sticks out the most until I got clearance. 

On the stand it shifted ok but cable tension had to be just perfect. It would get hung up shifting to a larger cog if the cable was too loose or shifting to a smaller cog in it was too tight. 1 click would make a difference. Once I got on the trails with sag it needed more tension but never really shifted very well. Acceptable but not good. It also get's hung up shifting from the 15 to the 19 shifting down and I usually have to hit the shifter twice to get it to shift. Also the gear gap jumping from the 15 to 19 is really too much. Too low or too high most of the time. Since you can't buy 16 tooth cogs from Shimano it would be great if one of these 42 tooth cog producers would make a 16 tooth to go alone with the 40 or 42 in order to lessen the gap. 

I'm now running a 28 tooth ring and that combined with the 10/42 is a great range. We don't have long downhills around here and I would never spin out a 28/11. I could push the 32/36 but it was hard at times. 32/42 would be acceptable but 28/36 is a great low gear with a bail out 28/42 for really steep stuff. I'm super happy with the gearing, except the 15/19 gap. I wish the shifting could be better however.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

If you won't spin out a 28/11, then why not ditch the 11 & 13 and put a 12 in and have smoothness in the mid range?


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

modifier said:


> Also the gear gap jumping from the 15 to 19 is really too much. Too low or too high most of the time. Since you can't buy 16 tooth cogs from Shimano it would be great if one of these 42 tooth cog producers would make a 16 tooth to go alone with the 40 or 42 in order to lessen the gap.


Totally agree here, now that the word is out that this is a problem area they will sell more if they have a solution.

It's little bit difficult for them because most of them deal with aluminum and the 16T has to be steel. New type of development.

To be honest the setups that replace the big 3-4 cogs look more attractive now.


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

I been following this treat and I believe the best bed is GENERAL LEE.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

And instead of 42 I believe 40 is best. I don't like the idea of replacing the tensioner bolt for the derrailur to accommodate the 42 profile. We have to take in consideration that all those company's trying to mimic the 1x11 or at lease the big ratio of the hight gear 42


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

protsi said:


> And instead of 42 I believe 40 is best. I don't like the idea of replacing the tensioner bolt for the derrailur to accommodate the 42 profile. We have to take in consideration that all those company's trying to mimic the 1x11 or at lease the big ratio of the hight gear 42
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I definitely agree with this - the 40t Hope works fine without modifying a Shimano rear mech, but also I think the ratio is actually better in real life - when climbing I don't want that "mega range" jolt into a super low gear, I just want one more gear with the same step between gears as the others. In fact I could do without the close ratios at the other end of a 10s MTB cassette - unlike with a road bike, choice of gear is just down to gradient and not a case of matching speed to wind resistance, where you do want close ratios.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

arclarke said:


> In fact I could do without the close ratios at the other end of a 10s MTB cassette - unlike with a road bike, choice of gear is just down to gradient and not a case of matching speed to wind resistance, where you do want close ratios.


That's actually the opposite. In a shimano 11-36 cassette the biggest difference is between 11 and 13 cogs (18%).

Even 36-42 difference is not that big (17.6%)

And if you remove one of the smaller cogs as you have to do with the 40/42 mods here you are making the ratios of the smaller cogs even bigger, with a 16T cog replacement you will get
13-16	23.1%
16-19	18.8%


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

I know that's how the percentage shifts look like - but I looked at the maths in relation to gradient, and was a bit surprised to find that for my power/weight a 1.25% increase in gradient always corresponded to a 4 tooth change in cog size irrespective of ratio %, whether that was 20 to 24 on a 7% gradient or 36 to 40 on 12% - which kind of explained why I use every one of the lower gears, depending on how steep the hill is and how tired I am, but end up jumping across multiple high gears when heading downhill.


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

That's why the 11 speed come to play 10 in low gear is enough for most of the people with a Mtb but if you can live without it, in 1x10 system I thing 33 front with 11,,,40 is really close to 32 10,,,42 you loose a little in both side of the spectrum but is close and the gears are pretty much balance. 


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## SirSlow (Mar 31, 2014)

I dropped into the LBS yesterday with my Specialized Enduro Comp that I have converted to the WT GC. The mechanic claimed they are a hit or miss proposition. He put it up on the stand and ran it up and down the cassette several times and declared that mine was the best he had seen. That made me feel good!


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

SirSlow said:


> I dropped into the LBS yesterday with my Specialized Enduro Comp that I have converted to the WT GC. The mechanic claimed they are a hit or miss proposition. He put it up on the stand and ran it up and down the cassette several times and declared that mine was the best he had seen. That made me feel good!


Bueno



SirSlow said:


> I have converted two of my bikes using WT NW 30t front and GC rear.


How're you liking the 30T up front? You on 26" wheels? I currently have got a 32T N/W on my Remedy 27.5 conversion, but am wondering if I should've gone with a 30T.

I ran 24/36 on my 26er AM bike (12-36T rear)


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## SirSlow (Mar 31, 2014)

I've got a 30t on both my 29er and Bronson. I can still climb to the top of the hills but its a little tougher than the old setups. I don't think I could do it with a 32.


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## mmanuel09 (Nov 26, 2008)

Tuono - Great Great Tip. Worked flawlessly for me today. Big Thanks! The range is a whole lot better for me. I actually think the shift from missing gap is way easier. Are you finding this to be true? It's almost like its a smaller jump and I don't have to feather shift all the way up to almost a double shift. That's my thoughts.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Twenty6 makes the best cog, and in 10 colors. 40 and 42 tooth. Shipping is really fast also. My 40 works great with ZEE short cage derail. My 2 cents!!


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

dgw700 can you describe your complete setup and all the details. i've been holding out for absolute black and they are releasing on the 12th. i'm growing impatient and have a zee also


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Check page 26 pict, I have XTR cassette, 40 tooth Twenty6 cog, Zee derail, XTR shifter with Sram XX1 crank 28 tooth. Works perfect I love it !! First thing everyone should do is check derail hanger for proper fitting than make your adjustments.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

i just installed 42T cg Wolftooth cycle on my shimano XT cassette, anyway Im using a Shimano Saint Shadow+, i have no prorblems with shifting, it is smooth as silk. 
My only complaint they should have included the b screw for free.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

thx dgw. i forgot you posted pics and did you paint the clutch switch red?


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Yes I did, makes it easier to see. Also have new xt chain. I will be going full 11 speed XO1 soon. I just need the cassette and chain and waiting for the weather to dry up. I'm really liking this 40 tooth setup, it will be interesting to see how the two compare. I'll shave some grams with the XO1, but not that much. Getting as money allows.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

Yeah nickel n dime approach is the only way I could do a 1x11. Do you have a second bike you're putting that on or are you putting the 11spd on the Rocky Mountain?


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Have Cannondale Flash Alloy 29er lefty, setup single speed. Simple and fun and light, 22.2 lbs. I may swap over the 10 speed setup from Rocky to the Flash. 11 speed XO1 going on the Rocky. I will be racing both bikes this year, Shimano coming out with there 11 speed soon, 40 tooth !!
The Twenty6 cog is really well made 7075 alloy, I did have the Wolftooth 42 cog and sent it back for refund. I'm glad I went with the 40 tooth for my setup.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

thanks for your input and info


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

my WT GC42 setup had its initial run today and.. shifting was smooth! back-pedaling while at 42T caused it to go down a gear but nothing as significant as when it was on the stand (did not even notice it was down a gear).. CAVEAT.. this was done on paved roads... will update as soon as it sees action on the trails..


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## team_wee (Mar 26, 2006)

Rode my set up for the first time today. XT cassette, 42GC wolf, xt clutch, runs well. Shifting not the best with the 17T missing but not to bad either, I can live with it for now. Definitely feeling the jump with the missing gear... adding a properly timed 16T would be welcomed. Love not having a front derailleur! My wish would be to have a proper 10 speed cassette 11-42 and derailleur. Still room for improvement but an eye opener for me.


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

fishwrinkle said:


> If you won't spin out a 28/11, then why not ditch the 11 & 13 and put a 12 in and have smoothness in the mid range?


I don't remember what the stock gearing is but I assume it it 11, 13, 15, 17, 19. I would use the 15 17 more than I would the 11 13, so I might try pulling the 13 instead of the 17 ( if that will work) and see how that feels but still have an overdrive 11. I don't have a 12 tooth 10 speed cog. Probably have an 8 or a 9 speed in my box of cogs.

I road again today and across the board the sifting is bad. It hangs shifting up and shifting down at times, but not every time. Not sure why it's intermittent. Maybe I'm used to great shifting all the time and have gotten a little sloppy, because I can. If it missed a shift I would immediately go up and down a few cogs right after to test and it always shifted fine then. If I have to shift fast or under load it balks, sometimes. I don't know if it's because of the maladjusted B screw, (because of the 42) with little chain wrap, or that I didn't check my chain length again when I went from a 32 to a 28. It was set for the 32. I'll check that too when I pull things apart, but a couple of links too long should not make that much difference.

I do really like the lower part of the gearing and the 28 tooth front. I'm haven't ridden on trails where I need the 42 so far this spring but there are some trails in the area where it will come in handy. The 28 36 is a good gear for most steep stuff. Much better than trying to push the 32 36. That was a pain in the knee sometimes.


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## LB412 (Nov 28, 2012)

I rode 21 miles with 3400 ft elevation gain yesterday. The Race Face 30, one up 42, combined with XT shadow plus works great!


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

I guess they were listening. Exclusive First Look: OneUp Components? 16-Tooth Cassette Adapter Cog Splits the Difference!


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

modifier said:


> I guess they were listening. Exclusive First Look: OneUp Components? 16-Tooth Cassette Adapter Cog Splits the Difference!


Listening indeed. It looks in the photo that the shifting gate and teeth do not align with the other shifting gates of the XTR cassette like stock. Maybe it aligns properly with sram or XT. Now we need real world testing of that


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

CrozCountry said:


> Listening indeed. It looks in the photo that the shifting gate and teeth do not align with the other shifting gates of the XTR cassette like stock. Maybe it aligns properly with sram or XT. Now we need real world testing of that


At some point, you get to an age where you read as well as just look at the pretty pictures. :thumbsup:

"Engraved on the cog are clocking sync points for SRAM and Shimano. Shown above, the "SH" is for Shimano and indicates the position of the cog that should be slid over the wide gap on the freehub body. Place the "SR" there for SRAM cassettes. *This lines up the ramps and teeth for optimum shifting. *As it turned out, I didn't have these instructions *when first installing and just slipped the non-notched space *on the cog over the thinner freehub spline and went riding. *Shifting was decent but not stellar&#8230;until I lined up the dots as they should be*. *From then on, shifting to and from OneUp's cog in either direction was as smooth as the rest of the cassette. Impressive.*"


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## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

Can't find the price of 16t on their website. It is free with purchase of 42 or 40t.
I just bought 40t 2 weeks ago, only need the 16t now.
anyway, good news for consumer.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

The 16T sounds great but I'm going to go off topic for a minute. I rode the 1x11 SRAM on a demo bike last weekend and it was much better than my Wolf tooth 42T set-up. Still not in my price range but clearly better if you have the extra cash.


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

I actually bought a full XX1 drive train setup this winter for my big 29er, but am also in process for building another long travel fat bike which will also need the groupo since I want to run a single front ring, but can't use the crank set due to 100mm bb. Rather than use all the expensive parts for the 29er I put the crankset on the 29er allowing for the 28 tooth ring and saved the rest for the other bike. So I haven't gotten to test a XX1 out yet, but I imagine it will perform well. The big 42 conversion cogs offer a better gear range with a single front cog at a fraction of the price, with some performance limitations. This 16 tooth cog will make it even better. If we can just buy it. They do not list it for sale on their web site and I have searched for a phone number to call them with no luck. 

I think the 40 and 42 tooth cogs offered are a great addition.


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## Lindahl (Aug 9, 2011)

Man you guys are dumb. Read the article. Its 15$ and will be available in early May.


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## bluesrider (Jun 16, 2010)

I ordered the 40T with the free 16T cog from OneUp's website today. Ships on April 9th. I will use a Wolf 32T up front with a North Shore Billet spider to adapt my XO crank to the smaller chainring. I'll post some pics and feed back once installed.


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## vack (Jan 2, 2003)

Just installed my WT 42 on my new wheels. Used a 12T Lock Ring instead of dropping my 17T....I'll never miss my 11T I never used it anyway.


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## CHROMAG19 (Mar 12, 2014)

any suggestions on how to fix chain jumping when you back pedal?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Adjust your chain line? 

That or just don't back pedal in the 42.:cornut:


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

vack your cockpit looks wack, hopefully it's the angle of the pic. tell us some some details of your setup; mechanics, ride, backpedal......


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## vack (Jan 2, 2003)

It looks wack because I have a long stem with a weird 10 degree angle on it, and it has a 120mm Fork, so it's set up more like a trail bike, also my normal Seat Post isn't on there yet, it's still on my Fat Bike. So with the set Back post it's not as bad I guess, but it's comfortable for me, I didn't want it set up like my previous 29er which was more of a CC Race bike set up. Oh yeah and I just noticed my Ergon Grips on there make is look a bit off too....but it rides really nice.

Weight Savings going 1X w/42T and ditching my lead sled wheels and getting the Carbons was 2.75 Pounds. 


So far I just did a little short ride around my house tonight, just put the wheels on, I'm going to get a longer B screw tomorrow at the Fastenal. It shifts fine, there is one issue sometimes when you're in the 42 and you want to come down to the 36, sometimes not all the time there is a bit of drag, Just a tad more B Screw will solve this issue, like a very small amount. But other then that it's fine, it back pedals just fine, shifts in the lower 9 just fine. I used a 12T Lock Ring instead of dropping the 17T. I found that I use a 17T a ton more than the 11T I dropped in it's place. Like I said a short spin around the house here, not very far, but it was fine, and I'm pleased with the range the 42 Gives for steeper climbs. It isn't as low as say my Fat Bikes 22/36T but it's close enough for a light weight 29er. Anyway, I'll report back at the end of the month, taking the bike to Arizona the day after Easter for a week of riding there. I'll have plenty of time on it there for a full write up and all that jazz.

Bike Set up:

Lynskey Pro 29
Manitou 120mm Tower Pro 15mm Tapered
Light-Bike Carbon 29er Bead Hookless Rims
King Hubs
Full XT Drive Train
Race Face 32T Narrow Wide
Sram Chain
XT Brakes
3T Carbon Bars
Easton E90 Stem (I'm going to try a new one...maybe correct some cockpit ascetics)
Thomson Seat Post
Fizik KiRium Seat


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## CHROMAG19 (Mar 12, 2014)

RS VR6 said:


> Adjust your chain line?
> 
> That or just don't back pedal in the 42.:cornut:


Brilliant! Why didn't I think of that?


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

The purpose of the 42t cog is to create a wide range cassette.

If you drop the 11, why not keep the standard cassette and run a smaller front ring?


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## vack (Jan 2, 2003)

While I agree with the math of the "Range" of the cassette, I don't race but once or twice a year, and I just like to ride. Also I like the simplicity of the 1x10 set up, and My Crank will not accept smaller than a 30T, which I don't like I'll explain below.

My thoughts on it are a theory I came up with...non scientific just a feel theory.

I call it Heavy Crank v. Heavy Wheel.

When I ride a larger ring up front I feel more comfortable and more in control of my HR. I can't spin a super fast cadence like some guys can. And with a Larger Front Ring, I call that Heavy Crank. I have a lot of leg strength, and I can push that larger front ring and still be comfortable.

With a Smaller Front Ring, I feel that I spin out or as I call it Tach out too quickly. I have a harder time controlling my breathing and heart rate with this set up. Also when I click down in smaller rear gears, the feel I have is that the wheel is heavy and I have a harder time with that for some reason.

So that's my Heavy Crank v Heavy Wheel thing. My body seems to do much better with the Heavy Crank, so that's what I go with. I can spin a slower cadence and still keep up just fine. Besides all that I don't race but maybe once or twice a year, and I do those for fun, never worried about placing, just worried about a good ride, a good time, and finishing.

I do wish I could spin a cadence like some of you guys can....I ride with guys that are like Jack Rabbits....but the odd thing is, by the end of the ride, most not all of those guys are tuckered out, and I normally feel good. But again I think it's a body thing, everyone is different, and that is what works for me. If I don't use something, even if on paper is gives me more Range, I'd rather lose it and keep something I use much more even if I loose out on some of the Math. We have many big climbs here in PA, and I'll get a lot of use out of that 42 and still be able to ride a 1x10 whereas that 11t makes a nice decoration on my peg board.

But hey we're all still riding right? Which in the end is pretty awesome!


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

thx vack.


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

I did that on 1 bike. I tapped the holes in a Saint crank with an 83mm bb to run a small ring and have a 24 and 26 for it. But many of the new cranks won't run a small ring and if they do you may have chainline problems if there isn't room to adjust. Most cranks limit the middle ring to 32 tooth. If I could have bolted a 30 tooth on my FSA cranks I might have left it at that. But I could not.


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## mobes (Feb 6, 2014)

Finished my build yesterday and took mine out for it's maiden voyage.

Relevant Components:
SRAM PG-1050 cassette
WolfTooth 42T SRAM version
SRAM 16T from a road cassette
X9 Type 2 derailleur
SRAM PC-1051 chain (full 104 links + master)
SRAM S1000 crankset (soon to be S1400)
RaceFace 32T narrow-wide (soon to be WolfTooth GXP Direct Mount)
ICAN S6 29er frame (IP-036 equivalent)

Factory B-screw is nearly bottomed. Didn't need to use the supplied one.

Shifting on the stand and the trail is excellent. The 42T and 16T work like they were part of the original cassette. No complaints at all about shifting.

I am having a chainline issue though, and I figure that translates to the chain dropping off the 42t when backpedaling. It happens at a certain point on the cog. It's fine for now, but I hope the direct-mount ring will have a chainline that's more inward. Right now it's probably centered around gear 7. I'll move both my BB spacers to the non-drive side if I have to with the new crankset. For now I haven't bothered since the new crankset will be going in soon.

I also noticed on the stand that the chain rubs ever-so-slightly on the face of the 42T while in 36T. It wasn't noticeable on the trail and doesn't seem to have any detrimental effects, but it may end up showing wear on the face of the cog.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

What 16T did you use? I tried a 16T from a 1070 on my 1030...and it did not work. The chain would keep skipping and would have a hard time getting into the 16T. Once in the 16T...the chain would skip like mad. From the 19T...the chain would sometimes miss the 16T and fall onto the 13T. The 1070 cog is not clocked the same as the 1030.

Lol...or did you just do the obvious and use the same series?


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

I tried a 16T XT Shimano 9 speed cog on 10 speed XTR.
Medium Sram XO type 2.
Does not work good so far. I am still going to play with it a bit more.
42 WT works fine.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I'm using a XT long cage with the b-screw turned around. Everything works fine shifting in and out of the 42 works like stock, no back pedaling issues either. Just looking to clean up the shifting a bit.


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## mobes (Feb 6, 2014)

RS VR6 said:


> What 16T did you use? I tried a 16T from a 1070 on my 1030...and it did not work. The chain would keep skipping and would have a hard time getting into the 16T. Once in the 16T...the chain would skip like mad. From the 19T...the chain would sometimes miss the 16T and fall onto the 13T. The 1070 cog is not clocked the same as the 1030.
> 
> Lol...or did you just do the obvious and use the same series?


It was from a 12-26 1070. But I believe the 1050 are the same except for the spacers and lockring.
See this post for details:
http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...eup-vs-wolf-tooth-897313-25.html#post11076753


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Oh...

My GF has a 1050 on her bike. I'll swap my cassette for hers and try it out. 

I got my 16T from a 11-23 road cassette. That all that was available to me at the time.

Thanks!


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I tried the road 16T on the 1050...and it still didn't work.

Only thing I can think of is that the road cassettes are clocked different.

Not sure if this matters or not...but I tried to slide the 1030 17T onto the plastic carrier of the 1070 road cassette...and it did not slide smoothly like the rest of the cogs. Lined up the small notch on the cog to the small spline on the plastic carrier.


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## Unforgiving (Sep 26, 2012)

i like vacks idea of the 12t lockring , where does one find such item ? cause i dont really use my 11t and would bypass it alltogether if i could


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## Unforgiving (Sep 26, 2012)

or more specific any particular 12t for a shimano xt cassette , would this work ?
Token Alloy Lockring - Shimano 12t | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## vack (Jan 2, 2003)

For Sram

SRAM 10sp 12T Lockring Steel 11 2415 027 010 | eBay

For Shimano

Gobike88 Token Lock Ring for Shimano Cassette 12T Red 026 | eBay


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

I believe the 16t provides a good fix for those wanting a wide ratio 11-42 gear set and as mentioned earlier is now packaged with 42/40 cog from oneup. I guess the real question I have is: what is the consensus best RD, as this seems to be a problem with 11-42. It seems from my reading on here it may be sram x9 type 2. love to hear your thoughts.


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

I hope this helps anyone else searching for this question: I emailed oneup and they responded almost instantly (crazy at this time of night) with this answer for my question: "If you are replacing your entire drivetrain, then I would probably recommend a SRAM X9 or X0 medium cage, type 2 derailleur. "


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## Aszors (Dec 11, 2013)

I had inquired about purchasing just the 16T and was told they will be forsale in May, for now they are just including with current orders. I won't be surprised if other competitors offer the 16T as well in the near future.


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

Aszors said:


> I had inquired about purchasing just the 16T and was told they will be forsale in May, for now they are just including with current orders. I won't be surprised if other competitors offer the 16T as well in the near future.


I agree 100%, I believe the guys "on just riding along" were hinting, that wolf tooth might be coming out with one.


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## PretendGentleman (May 24, 2011)

jspyderr said:


> I hope this helps anyone else searching for this question: I emailed oneup and they responded almost instantly (crazy at this time of night) with this answer for my question: "If you are replacing your entire drivetrain, then I would probably recommend a SRAM X9 or X0 medium cage, type 2 derailleur. "


This is what I just did. I have about 100 miles on it. 60 this weekend with several climbs near 1000'. Hard riding and I'm right around 200lbs and got 4th in a stage race that spanned the 60 miles. I'm very happy with this setup. Not sure if the 32x42 climbing gear is enough for exhaustion on my second or third 2500' climb in the real Appalachian mountains, but I can always put a double up front for the very hardest rides, which should happen this fall for a 4 day stage race. But then again, maybe I should just pedal harder with the 1x10 setup, not too sure.

Full sram setup. 1030 chain and cass, x9 t2 mid rder, raceface nw 32t. I can backpedal for days with no problem. I don't mind the gap over the 17t, as I had the same gap for the last year. On my krampus, I had removed the 17t to move my 36t cog outboard to keep the chain off the tire when in the granny gear. The 42t setup requires more b-screw and that's the main difference.

After some very gnarly downhills, I have to say that this setup outperforms my old triple when it comes to chain retention. Even with a x9 t2, enough bumps would knock my chain off a front ring, and I'd have to occasionally use my fder to get it back in the right place, losing a pedal revolution or two. Nothing like that has happened in the last 100 miles of hard, fast riding. I'm very pleased.

I will note that there is occasionally some overshifting around the 17t, especially when shifting to a smaller cog. I don't mind since it's a tall gear, but I would be interested in a 16t if it fixes this very minor (to me) problem. I might try backing off the b-screw and see how it goes. Worst case scenario would seem to be that I might have to replace pulleys a bit more often.

Now I have to decide whether or not to leave on the 42t when riding piedmont trails with more modest climbing. I got lots of complements on my green cog/ring combo, but I'll never use the 42 around here. I might get a 36t up front, but I think that may require an extra link in my chain beyond stock. I'd rather not have 2 quick links since they are less reliable than regular links in my experience (though amazingly reliable nonetheless)


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

So if I understand thibgs right its better to get a mid cage RD if I am going 42T one up cog with a single chainring setup?

Sent from my GT-B5330 using Tapatalk


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## PretendGentleman (May 24, 2011)

bosbik said:


> So if I understand thibgs right its better to get a mid cage RD if I am going 42T one up cog with a single chainring setup?
> 
> Sent from my GT-B5330 using Tapatalk


mid cage works great. I just updated my post to ad that detail. I used the full length sram chain without any cutting. I could remove a max of 1 full link, but I won't.


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

Cool!...looking at your post do you ride a full suspension?

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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

And from wolf tooth: " The SRAM Type 2 rear derailleur works the best. X9 or X7 are the budget options. XO is the higher end one." 

i think that pretty much confirms it.


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## PretendGentleman (May 24, 2011)

nope, fully rigid surly krampus


bosbik said:


> Cool!...looking at your post do you ride a full suspension?
> 
> Sent from my GT-B5330 using Tapatalk


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

Thanks! I hope my Talon's rear triangle geometry is good for a 1x10 with a 42t cog so I don't get shifting issues

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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

bosbik, what crank are you running? i ran my talon no problem 1x10 with a 104bcd ring on a slx crank. if you are running a DM ring then make sure to get one that is dished or you may find that the chain line is to far outboard.


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

with the x9 RD chosen for me, I suppose x9 shifter is good match. so which cassette is better x9 (pg1070) or shimano XT (m771) for 11-42 setup?


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

Fishwrinkle..I am still running the stock suntour crank on my talon 2.got a narrow wide chainring on it.I got my 10 speed parts except for the RD since I can't decide on the long or mid cage

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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

jspyderr said:


> with the x9 RD chosen for me, I suppose x9 shifter is good match. so which cassette is better x9 (pg1070) or shimano XT (m771) for 11-42 setup?


I think cassettes are about the same for this mod. Most people consider Shimano cassettes better and cheaper.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

bosbik if it were me i'd go with a long cage and don't worry about chain line too much with a ring in the 2x position


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

Thanks!..man it is hard to thinking about these thing with so much info

BTW AB came out with its version of a general lee

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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

bosbik said:


> Fishwrinkle..I am still running the stock suntour crank on my talon 2.got a narrow wide chainring on it.I got my 10 speed parts except for the RD since I can't decide on the long or mid cage
> 
> Sent from my GT-B5330 using Tapatalk


1x10, use medium cage with 42t cog, can get away with zee FR with 40t cog or less


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

IMO, if I were buying parts for this system I'd go long for ease of mind. In my position I already had a close to new zee FR so I'm opting for the 40T. Still unsure of what cog combo I'm going with.


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

im probably buying the one that comes with the 16t cog to fix the poor ratio caused by removing the 17t cog. right now that is oneup


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## Ltldemonz (Aug 14, 2013)

Surly Moonlander w/ 2x10. I am using the Shimano HG-81 11-36 cassette and RD-M780 derailleur having replaced the 19 and 21 tooth cogs with a Miche 20t cog and a 42t from Oneup. I needed more length on the B-screw but didn't have a longer one available so placed a small piece of plastic behind the B-screw (a piece of zip tie I think) and that allowed the derailleur to clear the 42t cog. 100 miles so far and no shifting issues yet.


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

glad to hear it is working for you. I understand that you can remove the b-screw and screw it in from the backside for more b-screw adjustment on those RD.


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## pitworkz (Jun 6, 2013)

According to one up website. They offer free 16t cog for every 40t or 42t cog you buy. Has anyone use this?


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## Jeepnut22 (Jul 16, 2008)

Found a 13T lock ring for my cassette on Ebay. Will try removing the 11T cassette and keeping my mid-range intact. RF N/W 32T, and WT 42T en-route...

I just don't ever user the 11T. With my 11-36 cassette going to 13-42 I keep ALL the gearing I currently use now with my 2x10.


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## broccoli rob (Jul 3, 2012)

Jeepnut22 said:


> Found a 13T lock ring for my cassette on Ebay. Will try removing the 11T cassette and keeping my mid-range intact. RF N/W 32T, and WT 42T en-route...
> 
> I just don't ever user the 11T. With my 11-36 cassette going to 13-42 I keep ALL the gearing I currently use now with my 2x10.


What kind of cassette do you have ? This sounds like a good option. I have shimano xt 11-36but not sure they make a 13t lockring


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## Jeepnut22 (Jul 16, 2008)

broccoli rob said:


> What kind of cassette do you have ? This sounds like a good option. I have shimano xt 11-36but not sure they make a 13t lockring


Easy to find on Ebay. Generally made for 12T-13T. NOT made by SRAM nor Shimano, but are either SRAM/Shimano compatible, or Campy compatible.

My cassette is a 11-36 10 speed SRAM 1080...


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

*Oneup 40 + 16 tooth*



pitworkz said:


> According to one up website. They offer free 16t cog for every 40t or 42t cog you buy. Has anyone use this?


*Got my 40t oneup with the 16t yesterday, I tried a 42 with the 17 removed and it shifted like crap from 11 thru 19 so I sold it and waited for this.. 
This works next to perfect very slight hesitation on the lower cogs but not perceptible on the trails shifts seamlessly to and from the 16cog I had to look to see when I was on it to tell.. did about 1200 ft of climbing on it last night and it shifted flawless the difference between the b screw adjustment on the 42 verses the 40 are night and day plenty of chain wrap on the 11 tooth sprinted of few hills in the 11 and no slippage and I'm 200lbs. for me the 11x40 is all I need.*
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Unforgiving (Sep 26, 2012)

nice !!! how many xtra links did ya have to add to the chain for the stumpy , iam going to order mine next week !


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

Unforgiving said:


> nice !!! how many xtra links did ya have to add to the chain for the stumpy , iam going to order mine next week !


*None as you can see its maxed out but working flawlessly just got back from 20miles and 2000ft and it didn't miss a beat I can see why shimano is going with 11-40 on the new XTR as it meshes perfect, now I just want someone to make a add on 10 tooth to replace the 11 cuz I'm spinning out at 21mph. *


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## zorg (Jul 1, 2004)

bosbik said:


> Thanks!..man it is hard to thinking about these thing with so much info
> 
> BTW AB came out with its version of a general lee
> 
> Sent from my GT-B5330 using Tapatalk


Sorry, but what does AB stand for?


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## Aszors (Dec 11, 2013)

zorg said:


> Sorry, but what does AB stand for?


Absolute Black


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## pharmaboy (Nov 11, 2005)

This

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...absoluteblack-chainrings-thread-874053-4.html

2/3rds down. Post 96


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## zorg (Jul 1, 2004)

pharmaboy said:


> This
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...absoluteblack-chainrings-thread-874053-4.html
> 
> 2/3rds down. Post 96


Awesome. This will be cheaper than buying another GL when mine wears out. I'm really waiting for somebody to come out with an 11-40 cassette. That'd be terrific.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

Unforgiving said:


> nice !!! how many xtra links did ya have to add to the chain for the stumpy , iam going to order mine next week !


For me sticking with the same chain length made it hard to shift off the 40t - I must have had my chain as short as possible already. So added 2 links (1") and it's just right (each tooth needs 0.5" of chain, it wraps round half the cog, so adding 4 teeth going to 40 from 36 needs an extra (20-18) x 0.5" = 1")


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

i heard shimano is working on a 11-40 cassette


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

Rakuman said:


> *None as you can see its maxed out but working flawlessly just got back from 20miles and 2000ft and it didn't miss a beat I can see why shimano is going with 11-40 on the new XTR as it meshes perfect, now I just want someone to make a add on 10 tooth to replace the 11 cuz I'm spinning out at 21mph. *


Imho, thats what makes using the 42t cog (instead of the 40) key in the 1x10 set up. It allows you to go with a bigger chain ring in the front gaining top end while still keeping some hill climbing ability. But i believe that requires you to use the the sram x9 RD for good shifting, for shimano peeps, thats a hard pill to swallow.

If I'm not mistaken, going to a 10t cog requires a new free hub as it is to small to fit over the free hub body itself.


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

fishwrinkle said:


> i heard shimano is working on a 11-40 cassette


http://www.bikerumor.com/2014/04/11...-1x-2x-and-3x-11-speed-mtb-groups/#more-76675


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

jspyderr said:


> Imho, thats what makes using the 42t cog (instead of the 40) key in the 1x10 set up. It allows you to go with a bigger chain ring in the front gaining top end while still keeping some hill climbing ability. But i believe that requires you to use the the sram x9 RD for good shifting, for shimano peeps, thats a hard pill to swallow.
> 
> If I'm not mistaken, going to a 10t cog requires a new free hub as it is to small to fit over the free hub body itself.


*I'm pushing a 34 right now don't think my 50 year old knees can take much more.I wish the 42 had worked but on my setup it sucked .
*


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

Rakuman said:


> *I'm pushing a 34 right now don't think my 50 year old knees can take much more.I wish the 42 had worked but on my setup it sucked .
> *


Just so i dont have the same poor results, what was your setup?

fwiw, i plan on pushing a 34 with an 11-42 on a 26" wheels, so don't be too hard on yourself ;-)


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

jspyderr said:


> Just so i dont have the same poor results, what was your setup?
> 
> fwiw, i plan on pushing a 34 with an 11-42 on a 26" wheels, so don't be too hard on yourself ;-)


*old set up fail: 
Wolftooth 42 sram 11x36 1050 cassette with 17 removed. kmc x10 chain xtr shadow+ and xtr shifters... 
Issues very slow shifting in the 11 to 19 range,, would not work for me because I need instant shifts for So Cal single track, lots of ups and downs. Not enough chainwrap on 11 tooth kind of sketchy 
New setup 
One up 40 tooth w/16 tooth removed 17 & 15 installed 16tooth
rest of setup same as above, only adjustments made was bscrew inward , Shifts almost perfect throughout whole cassette slight hesitation on the smaller cogs wouldn't notice it if I wasn't focusing on it.
almost stock chainwrap on 11 tooth:thumbsup:
I really think the 42 tooth is over pushing the shimanos limits and the 40 is right there anymore and you lose performance... *


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Rakuman said:


> *old set up fail:
> Wolftooth 42 sram 11x36 1050 cassette with 17 removed. kmc x10 chain xtr shadow+ and xtr shifters...*


Med or long cage der?


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

NordieBoy said:


> Med or long cage der?


Long


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

Both one up and wolf tooth, say sram x9 med cage RD works best with 42t cog. Anyone having trouble with that setup?


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

Rakuman said:


> *old set up fail:
> Wolftooth 42 sram 11x36 1050 cassette with 17 removed. kmc x10 chain xtr shadow+ and xtr shifters...
> Issues very slow shifting in the 11 to 19 range,, would not work for me because I need instant shifts for So Cal single track, lots of ups and downs. Not enough chainwrap on 11 tooth kind of sketchy
> New setup
> ...


Thx for the info, added to your rep


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## Ridefat1981 (Mar 17, 2014)

The wolftooth works flawlessly for me. 11-36 1070 sram cassette with sram chain and an x9 long cage type 2 rear derailleur. The shimano rear derailleur just doesn't have he balls to pull off the jump to 42 tooth. My riding buddy tried it and it didn't work, it constantly missed and jumped. Sram drive train all the way. Except brakes. SLX brakes are e best.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

fishwrinkle said:


> i heard shimano is working on a 11-40 cassette


yes but 11 speed, with new XTR mech and shifters. 
If going to 11 speed you could add a bit of range - how does 10-42 sound??


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

thx thickfog.

arclarke, i now see that it is indeed 11sp from reading TF's link


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## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

First ride yesterday with WT 42t GC. Tallboy LTC with XT shadow plus medium cage, race face 30t narrow/wide, and an XT cassette. 

Honestly, it shifted pretty well. There were a couple delayed shifts around the 15-19 area and some clunks under load, but overall I was super impressed and didn't expect it to work so well. I'll get the 16t cog and I think I'll be good to go. Also it stayed on the 42 cog when I back pedaled too.


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

Mr.Quint said:


> First ride yesterday with WT 42t GC. Tallboy LTC with XT shadow plus medium cage, race face 30t narrow/wide, and an XT cassette.
> 
> Honestly, it shifted pretty well. There were a couple delayed shifts around the 15-19 area and some clunks under load, but overall I was super impressed and didn't expect it to work so well. I'll get the 16t cog and I think I'll be good to go. Also it stayed on the 42 cog when I back pedaled too.


Where are you sourcing the 16t cog?


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

rockman said:


> Where are you sourcing the 16t cog?


All i know of is one up components and I'm not sure they are offering it by itself yet.


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## Aszors (Dec 11, 2013)

jspyderr said:


> All i know of is one up components and I'm not sure they are offering it by itself yet.


At the moment they are the only ones offering it with their 40/42T as a kit. They will not be available to purchase on there own until May from what I was told. There are rumors that Wolftooth may be producing one too?


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

I found 16t cogs in 9 speed cassettes - which I already had - and also 18t which looked like it gave a better spread of gears, if you have an SLX 10 speed cassette and drill out the pins holding the middle cogs together.

But dropping an 18t in place of 17&19 didn't work that well. The reason seems to be that the shift points need to line up and the number of shift points equals the tooth difference between cogs - so you need a 21t that is designed to work with an 18t, not a 19t, and similarly with the 15t. I had such a 21t, and things were better, but still not perfect from 15t to 18t.

In the end my solution was to go and buy an 8 speed cassette! I realised I wanted 11-40 over 10 cogs, so 11-32 over 8 cogs should have the right spread of ratios, and it does - I've put in the 15,18,21 from a £10 8 speed cassette to replace the 15,17,19,21 from my SLX and it works just fine - I can shift up and down the cassette whilst pedaling out of the saddle so I'm happy. The 21-24 ramps line up pretty much spot on, the 13-15 don't line up but that shift still seems to work. I used the 10 speed spacers between the 8s cogs, and seem to get away with the extra 0.2mm cog thickness - it's only 0.6mm over the whole cassette.


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## honkonbobo (Nov 18, 2006)

arclarke said:


> I found 16t cogs in 9 speed cassettes - which I already had - and also 18t which looked like it gave a better spread of gears, if you have an SLX 10 speed cassette and drill out the pins holding the middle cogs together.
> 
> But dropping an 18t in place of 17&19 didn't work that well. The reason seems to be that the shift points need to line up and the number of shift points equals the tooth difference between cogs - so you need a 21t that is designed to work with an 18t, not a 19t, and similarly with the 15t. I had such a 21t, and things were better, but still not perfect from 15t to 18t.


that could be bad news for me. i bought a couple of the SunRace 11-36T cassettes for $27 on Amazon which don't have the 19T on the spider. I was gonna try an 18T to replace the 17T&19T instead of a 16 to replace the 15&17T to get that really nice spread of gears that you talked about. i bought a couple of these which have the dual ramps (some cogs have single ramps) and look like they can be oriented in multiple ways and i am hoping i can get them lined up decent in the cassette for decent shifting.

i don't like the huge 15-19 jump and then tiny jump from 19-21 that you are stuck with when removing the 17T on XT/SunRace cassettes. i will see if i can get this to work and it could be a cheap and nice 11-42 setup if it does.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

jspyderr said:


> Both one up and wolf tooth, say sram x9 med cage RD works best with 42t cog. Anyone having trouble with that setup?


I have mine working ok now. First day out the wheel removal lock button somehow caught the little bolt head on the cage (while in the 42) and sheared it off. That caused a massive chain drop into my spokes (which sucks) I was about ready to give up but tuned it up back in the shop and while I no longer have that little bolt installed or the lock the DR still seems to be functioning ;-) I do still have the chain dropping into higher gears whilst back-pedalling, something I often once stopped to get into position. Still on the fence, may go back to 2x10 or to X01. I love the clean looks and operation but I do miss the ability to quickly drop to the granny and back up on those constant up and down trails...


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

geraldooka said:


> but I do miss the ability to quickly drop to the granny and back up on those constant up and down trails...


This. Exactly this. I was trying to explain to someone how I use my front D and like it for quick ups/downs. I'll ride in the 3rd or 4th gear in the cassette and just toggle
Back and forth between the big and small rings. I find one move quicker/easier than multiple clicks on the rear D.

For this reason, I think I'm keeping my XC 29er as a 2x10


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

arclarke said:


> I found 16t cogs in 9 speed cassettes - which I already had - and also 18t which looked like it gave a better spread of gears, if you have an SLX 10 speed cassette and drill out the pins holding the middle cogs together.
> 
> But dropping an 18t in place of 17&19 didn't work that well. The reason seems to be that the shift points need to line up and the number of shift points equals the tooth difference between cogs - so you need a 21t that is designed to work with an 18t, not a 19t, and similarly with the 15t. I had such a 21t, and things were better, but still not perfect from 15t to 18t.
> 
> In the end my solution was to go and buy an 8 speed cassette! I realised I wanted 11-40 over 10 cogs, so 11-32 over 8 cogs should have the right spread of ratios, and it does - I've put in the 15,18,21 from a £10 8 speed cassette to replace the 15,17,19,21 from my SLX and it works just fine - I can shift up and down the cassette whilst pedaling out of the saddle so I'm happy. The 21-24 ramps line up pretty much spot on, the 13-15 don't line up but that shift still seems to work. I used the 10 speed spacers between the 8s cogs, and seem to get away with the extra 0.2mm cog thickness - it's only 0.6mm over the whole cassette.


Is it possible to use a 16t from a 9 speed XT cassette (M760) or is the spacing too different? One can be found for cheap here: http://www.cambriabike.com/Shimano-XT-Cs-M760-Cassette-Single-Cog-Silver-16T.asp


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

First ride for me today on my WT 42 GC, with a short cage Zee r. der and 32t NW front ring.
On a hardtail at least, the 42t works fine with the short-cage shimano zee clutch der.

I honestly don't know what to think about folks who are having shifting issues. My set-up isn't ideal (short cage, no 16t cog) and it shifts better than any of the OE 8- or 9-spd stuff I owned years ago.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

FM said:


> First ride for me today on my WT 42 GC, with a short cage Zee r. der and 32t NW front ring.
> On a hardtail at least, the 42t works fine with the short-cage shimano zee clutch der.
> 
> I honestly don't know what to think about folks who are having shifting issues. My set-up isn't ideal (short cage, no 16t cog) and it shifts better than any of the OE 8- or 9-spd stuff I owned years ago.


I've heard the Zee rd works well. Maybe a different design to other Shimano stuff. Is your b screw all the way in?

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

dam, i wish i knew the zee worked that good with a 42. i'm thinking my 40t-rex from wiggle is coming this week. i just wished i had bought a dished DM ring though.


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

After being a little let down by the performace on the 42t cogs, I just installed a OneUp 40t and 16t on my XT cassette. Take it out for a nice ride tomorrow, but in a quick ride around the hood, it's a huge improvement. On XT mid-cage just a few turns of the stock B limit and Low limit and it was good to go. Shifting up and down ENTIRE range is very good. Going from 13-16-19 has very little hesitation and the change in gearing is also much better. 

I'll update after a few rides, but so far a lot happier with the 40/16t setup OneUp has going. The green is pretty rad, too.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

geraldooka said:


> I've heard the Zee rd works well. Maybe a different design to other Shimano stuff. Is your b screw all the way in?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


I put the longer b screw in that WT provided. It's running just a little bit longer than the max length of the stock shimano.

I have the same set-up on my FS bike, but with a mid cage XC clutch. It shifts great on the stand, haven't had it out riding yet (just coming back from an injury)


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## myitch (Jan 25, 2004)

So what's the final verdict on using the short cage Zee?


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## LB412 (Nov 28, 2012)

Have almost 100 miles on my oneup 42 and it is still working great. XT Der, RF 30


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## Rhialto (Oct 21, 2009)

I have read this thread from start to finish and it was what convinced me to try this out so thanks to all who have taken the time to contribute. I have been running a 2x9, 22/36 chainrings with 11-34 cassette, for several years and the gradients around here (Lake District, UK) require a pretty low gear. Even with my granny ring, I still end up pushing (and carrying) the bike quite often.

I rode several bikes during the last year that had SRAM XX1 setups and I was quite impressed. I love the simplicity of shifting, the weight savings and being able to remove the front derailleur that was a natural crud catcher on my bike (SC Blur LT2). As I was upgrading from a 9 speed drivetrain, I had the luxury of replacing the whole drivetrain at one go so armed with the info in this thread, I purchased
- Saint single ring cranks with a Raceface 30 tooth NW ring
- SRAM X9 type 2 medium RD, SRAM X9 shifter and a KMC X10.93 chain
- PG1070 cassette plus the Hope T-Rex 40 tooth cog minus the 17 tooth cog
I went with a single ring crankset in the hopes that I could avoid any chainline issues. I also went with the Hope 40 tooth as it is readily available in the UK. In hindsight, I kind of wish I had tried harder to get a WTC 42t cog.

I recently did a couple of rides with the new drivetrain and I have to say I am very pleased with it. It shifts like original through all the cogs. There is a bit of a gearing jump from 15 to 19 but I don't spend a lot of time at that end of the cassette so it hasn't bothered me. Maybe it's the smaller 40t cog vs 42t that others are running, but I didn't have to do much to the B screw. There seems to be more than enough clearance with it screwed halfway in. Also, I am able to back-pedal without the chain dropping off the 40t.

I used Sheldon's gear calculator and it indicates that with my new drivetrain I have lost my very lowest and very highest gear compared to the 2x9 setup I had previously. While that's not ideal, I'm hoping that my legs will adjust. I'm willing to tradeoff the advantages to the 1x10 setup for the disadvantage of losing my lowest gear. My last ride (38km/1200m climbing) proved to me that it's the way to go. So again, thanks all!


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## Abagrizzli (May 28, 2012)

Didn't want to loose 15+17-cog gear, so I removed the 11T cog and closed the cassette with 12T Token lockring. Works perfectly.


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

Aba Grizzly said:


> Didn't want to loose 15+17-cog gear, so I removed the 11T cog and closed the cassette with 12T Token lockring. Works perfectly.


One of these?

Token Alloy Lockring - Shimano 12t | Chain Reaction Cycles

also, did you use it on an XT cassette?


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## Abagrizzli (May 28, 2012)

da peach said:


> One of these?
> 
> Token Alloy Lockring - Shimano 12t | Chain Reaction Cycles
> 
> also, did you use it on an XT cassette?


Exactly.

Yes, it's installed on XT cassette, originally 11-36, now 13-42. I felt much better to loose 11T, which in any case affects only the final higher speed when you pedalling down, than to loose 2 much more useful gears.


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

Aba Grizzly said:


> Exactly.
> 
> Yes, it's installed on XT cassette, originally 11-36, now 13-42. I felt much better to loose 11T, which in any case affects only the final higher speed when you pedalling down, than to loose 2 much more useful gears.


agreed. thanks.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

My 16T is on its way from OneUp...we'll see how much of a difference it actually makes.


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## vack (Jan 2, 2003)

Aba Grizzly said:


> Exactly.
> 
> Yes, it's installed on XT cassette, originally 11-36, now 13-42. I felt much better to loose 11T, which in any case affects only the final higher speed when you pedalling down, than to loose 2 much more useful gears.


Truth!


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

vack said:


> Truth!


I'd like to do this. Do I simply need the 12t token ring? For a sram pg1070, how does it grip without the notches?

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## PretendGentleman (May 24, 2011)

geraldooka said:


> I'd like to do this. Do I simply need the 12t token ring? For a sram pg1070, how does it grip without the notches?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


why not just run a smaller front chainring and a stock cassette if you don't care about top end?


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

PretendGentleman said:


> why not just run a smaller front chainring and a stock cassette if you don't care about top end?


Because bikes with high anti squat produce higher pedal kickback. A larger front chainring reduces this. I had a WT 26t originally on my bike switching to a 30t was a significantly positive difference in pedal feel. I never use the smaller cassette cogs on my am machine.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Abagrizzli (May 28, 2012)

geraldooka said:


> I'd like to do this. Do I simply need the 12t token ring? For a sram pg1070, how does it grip without the notches?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


Don't know about SRAM, on Shimano it grips OK. For its cost (this Token lockring is really cheap, yet without quality compromise) you can give it a try and share it here.


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## vack (Jan 2, 2003)

PretendGentleman said:


> why not just run a smaller front chainring and a stock cassette if you don't care about top end?


From someone who has tried both...simply putting a smaller ring up front is not the same in real world application.

Each person will be different, but IMO for many 1x10 enthusiasts the 32t is the sweet spot. I also do not think that everyone is overly concerned about cassette range on paper, but what this 42 or 40t can do for them on the trail. Some use the 11t cog, however I will venture a guess that an equal or greater amount of folks do not use it. This added to the fact that using the 12t Lockring creates a great 10spd cassette for enthusiast riders along with your choice of GC. (Oneup or WolfTooth)

In the end we are all riding so it cool whatever way ya go.

For the person asking about the Token Lockring, if you have any concerns with it try this one

SRAM PG-1070 Cassette Lockring - 12T:Amazon:Sports & Outdoors

This is the one I'm using on my Shimano cassette, frankly because a friend of mine had it sitting around. However I ordered a token because it comes in red. For obvious reasons.







Good luck and happy trails!!


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

The Token lockring is not the best, the alloy to too soft. Threads are getting weak, I like the steel ones.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

m970 12T lock ring for ~$10

vack, sorry if you already said, but what ring are you running?


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## Belladonna (Jan 19, 2014)

I installed the wolf tooth 42t last night and could not make it work to save my life. My set up is a 32t race face narrow wide c.r. on an xt crank with 2mm spacers (chainline is spot on), a long cage xt shadow +rear derailler on my Canfield Nimble nine. The stock b tension screw got me far enough away from the 42 cog, and I tried 3 different chain lengths. I even filed off some material from the arm where the cable attaches on my rear derailler. The problem is chain wrap, if I can get it to go up I can't get it to go down. By the way I'm not a novice mechanic, I've wrenched in shops for more than 15 years. Thoughts?


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## Abagrizzli (May 28, 2012)

dgw7000 said:


> The Token lockring is not the best, the alloy to too soft. Threads are getting weak, I like the steel ones.


I personally see this as an advantage, since the 13T cog does not have notches, softer ring squishes a little and thus grips OK. Hard steel vs hard steel won't grip good, I believe.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

belladonna, i have a different setup so it probably wont help but... i have a gen2 N9 setup 40t-rex, 32t DM wolf tooth ring, zee rd, slx cassette, 104 links of kmc. i'm waiting on a dished 30T WT ring to make my god awful chain line work better. i adjusted the B until the upper jockey and 40t cog touched then backed it out so the teeth of the the two weren't interfering and good to go. i also dropped the 11 & 13 for a 12T and shifting is better than expected. only issue is i get the drop from 40 to 36 on a 1/2 back rotation. hopefully the 5mm i'll gain from the ring will alleviate the drop. also i have a 16t from one up coming to try that route so i can have "full range".


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

So let me get this straight, people are taking out the Sram 11t cog ring and replacing it with a 12t chainring lock and having great success? I myself rarely, if ever, use my 11t as our trails just really have any need for it.


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## Abagrizzli (May 28, 2012)

Not just SRAM - it works the same for Shimano too.


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## vack (Jan 2, 2003)

Triaxtremec said:


> So let me get this straight, people are taking out the Sram 11t cog ring and replacing it with a 12t chainring lock and having great success? I myself rarely, if ever, use my 11t as our trails just really have any need for it.


Yes Exactly!

I am using an old SRAM Steel Lockring my friend had laying around his workbench. It's on a Shimano XT Cassette. I've ordered the Token Ring, frankly because it's red, it was cheap, and I don't take off my cassettes very often, only if they need serious cleaning. Most of the time I can clean them just fine while they're on the bike.


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

so just remove the 11T and the locking, replace with 12t locking and ride?


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## Abagrizzli (May 28, 2012)

Yep. Just don't forget to put back the gears you removed in order to install the GC in the first place.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

you could but the 12 cog won't have serrations like the lock ring. i used the cs6500 shimano cog (9spd) like has been mentioned in one of these kind of threads


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

Hmmm. I have a PG1050 and a PG1070 that are 12-36T. But I'm not sure I follow this thread.

I, too, can't tell a difference between 12-36 and 11-36 final drive ratios.


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## vack (Jan 2, 2003)

Belladonna said:


> I installed the wolf tooth 42t last night and could not make it work to save my life. My set up is a 32t race face narrow wide c.r. on an xt crank with 2mm spacers (chainline is spot on), a long cage xt shadow +rear derailler on my Canfield Nimble nine. The stock b tension screw got me far enough away from the 42 cog, and I tried 3 different chain lengths. I even filed off some material from the arm where the cable attaches on my rear derailler. The problem is chain wrap, if I can get it to go up I can't get it to go down. By the way I'm not a novice mechanic, I've wrenched in shops for more than 15 years. Thoughts?


That's odd that's pretty much the same set up I'm using.

32T NW Raceface
XT LC Shadow +
XT Cassette
XT Cranks

The only thing that is different is I don't use any 2mm spacers, and I have no trouble. There is some drag coming down from the 42T back to the 36 on the stand, but none while I'm riding it.

Is it possible something is bent? Or maybe try a longer B screw? I bought a bunch of the B screws at a local fastenal for 2 bucks....haven't needed them yet but might use one anyway. My B screw on the XT is all the way in.

Also my entire DT is brand new when I installed the 42T. Not one pedal stroke on it.


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## Abagrizzli (May 28, 2012)

fishwrinkle said:


> you could but the 12 cog won't have serrations like the lock ring. i used the cs6500 shimano cog (9spd) like has been mentioned in one of these kind of threads


It doesn't really matter, if you use the alloy lockring, like Token, which is soft enough to deform and hold strongly.


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## Ridefat1981 (Mar 17, 2014)

Belladonna I have one word for you. SRAM.


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## Ridefat1981 (Mar 17, 2014)

X9 long cage, wolf tooth 42 and raceface narrow wide. I have about 150 miles on mine and I have had no issues what so over. I used the stock b screw and did not end up having to cut the chain down from new. My friend set up basically the same thing on a different friend and it worked flawlessly too. All this chain line stuff is making a simple adjustment issue way to complex. 

I put a one up on a guys bike this afternoon with a shimano drive train and it does not work as crisp, but it still does work.


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## myitch (Jan 25, 2004)

Anyone. Does the Zee rear derailleur work on this set up?


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

i believe FM is using a zee on a 42. i have mine on a 40 and there is definitely enough stock b screw left and the cage can still swing more if needed on my setup. so in short i'd say go for it


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

fishwrinkle said:


> i believe FM is using a zee on a 42.


Yes, and it works great, on a hardtail. I doubt it would work well on a long travel FS bike with any significant chain growth.

Depends on the bike, I think...


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

I'm running wt gc42 with at 30t on a 2014 Heckler (about 25mm max chain growth) SRAM cassette, x9 med cage. Stock by screw maxed. Installed new chain per wt instructions and on the 42t the cage is nearly vertical... I may remove a link as most setups I see the cage much more forward. I also suffer the chain drop on back pedalling which is really annoying. Anyone fix that?

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## Abagrizzli (May 28, 2012)

geraldooka said:


> . I also suffer the chain drop on back pedalling which is really annoying. Anyone fix that?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


Chain drop on back pedalling is practiclly very hard and no need to fix. GC is not a perfect and organic solution, troubles with a rear der and chain drop on bp are the least of all prices.


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## myitch (Jan 25, 2004)

HT I could see the Zee working. But the chain growth is probably a no go then


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## Belladonna (Jan 19, 2014)

Yeah my whole kit is new, 3 rides or so, I'm stumped. I'm gonna try it again but I don't hold out much hope. I wasn't experiencing degraded shifting I was experiencing horrendous shifting. Short chain stays? Sharp angle? I don't have a bent hanger cable is new. Right now I have a 90 dollar paper weight.


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## Belladonna (Jan 19, 2014)

A fine word, Ill drop my next three paychecks on xo1. But until then ill leave off my ghetto 42t magic bullet keep my flawless shimano shifting and make it up the hill with a 32x36 I can grind more and spin less but I can't accept rat **** shifting.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

FM said:


> Yes, and it works great, on a hardtail. I doubt it would work well on a long travel FS bike with any significant chain growth.
> 
> Depends on the bike, I think...


 yeah i agree on the the HT being key to using a short cage. i put ~20 miles on mine last night with about 1000' of vert. even with a chain line that looks like a big cog/big ring combo it was nice to have that bailout. especially when you have about 10 lbs of beer gut from the winter.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Aba Grizzly said:


> Chain drop on back pedalling is practiclly very hard and no need to fix. GC is not a perfect and organic solution, troubles with a rear der and chain drop on bp are the least of all prices.


I get it's a compromise. Just wondering if there is something in setup that could prevent this. Repositioning pedals whilst riding is common enough that it is a noticeable problem.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## SirSlow (Mar 31, 2014)

I want to touch on the 11t to 12t lockring switch again. What is it about a 12t lockring that you don't get with the 11t? Don't they both just lock a 10 speed cassette onto the wheel? If I can dump the 11 tooth cog and put the 17t cog back on that would be great for me. It would also be cheaper and quicker than ordering up a 16t from OneUp. Thanks in advance for the schooling.


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## Abagrizzli (May 28, 2012)

geraldooka said:


> I get it's a compromise. Just wondering if there is something in setup that could prevent this. Repositioning pedals whilst riding is common enough that it is a noticeable problem.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


I recon playing with crank spacers will straighten the chain line a little and reduce back pedaling chain drop, but I don't think it will reduce it dramatically.


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## Abagrizzli (May 28, 2012)

SirSlow said:


> I want to touch on the 11t to 12t lockring switch again. What is it about a 12t lockring that you don't get with the 11t? Don't they both just lock a 10 speed cassette onto the wheel? If I can dump the 11 tooth cog and put the 17t cog back on that would be great for me. It would also be cheaper and quicker than ordering up a 16t from OneUp. Thanks in advance for the schooling.


When you loose 11T, you stay with bigger 13T as the outer cog. 11T lockring does not grip well on it - it's too small. You need 12T lockring, because it's bigger and grips better.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

...


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

Aba Grizzly said:


> When you loose 11T, you stay with bigger 13T as the outer cog. 11T lockring does not grip well on it - it's too small. You need 12T lockring, because it's bigger and grips better.


Well there ya go. That makes sense. Instead of dropping the 17T, you drop the 11T. For some reason I couldn't get my head around the 12T lock ring, but now I understand exactly what is being suggested.

I honestly don't think I'd miss the 11T. Hell, my two cassettes are 12T and I thought they were 11T. Only time I'm going in that high of a gear is pavement (mainly b/c I hate having to down shift a whole bunch on the trail.)


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

All, 

I recieved my 40T wolftooth cog, 34t raceface chainring, and 10 speed xt setup this week and installed it today.

My old setup was a 30t wolftooth and 9 speed XT, 11-34.

My impressions:

1) Setup your B tension before shortening your chain. Once you put enough B tension on, you need more chain. Doh.

2) It shifts surprisingly well, once its dialed in. Its harder to setup than normal, but not too bad.

3) Holy crap, the clutched shimano derailleur takes way more effort to downshift than normal or sram type 2.

4) The best part, an unexpected result. Every frame has a certain size chainring that it "likes" and recieves less pedal bob with. My Titus FTM with the 30t, was ok. Nothing that bugged me. With the 34 tooth, it seems to "lurch" forward. Its an impressive difference. 

Overall, I am extremely happy with the setup.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Installed the OneUp 16T...aaaand...I was able to tell that the steps are slightly smaller when shifting. The cadence jump is also not as big.

Regards to the clocking of the 16T...initially I had it clocked as a Shimano (I have a SRAM cassette)...lol...shifted the same.



Props to OneUp for making the 16T (and getting it to me so fast!)..even if you have to buy one...its at a super reasonable price.


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## mag0121 (Oct 17, 2010)

*SLX DT w OneUp 42t*

Haven't seen much discussion of SLX clutch dt, so here's my setup:

Kona Explosif HT frame
OneUp 42t, 17t removed
SRAM pg1050 cassette
SLX shifter and rd, long cage
RF turbine crank & 30t NW ring
KMC 10sp chain

Setup was no problem, getting it dialed took some fiddling. Chain was measured as big ring +4 links (followed OneUp website recommendation).

Had to reverse the b-limit screw to get clearance, then remove drive side BB spacer to get proper chainline, then loosen cable tension to get downshifts smoother, then set b-tension about as close as possible ... And voila, it's still a little quirky.

Waiting on availability of OneUp16t, which should help. Top end shifting is golden, including back pedaling. Only glitchy downshifting at bottom end, and even that isn't too bad; just requires some double clicks now and then.


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

Trek Remedy 9.9
X9 Type 2 Med Cage with stock b-screw
XO shifter
42T GC
30T RF N/W
XT 11-36 cassette
SRAM chain (used, just put on for fitment purposes)
16T 9spd Shimano cog (from donor cassette) in place of 15T & 17T
3x10 SLX crankset, running 30T on 'inner' 104BCD postion (which is offset by 2mm inboard by the spacers integrated into the RF N/W)

Shifting is pretty good. Not quite as crisp, but no noticeable jumps with the 16T in the cassette. Stock SRAM B-screw is almost all the way in.

42T drops to 36T when I backpedal. I know people say don't backpedal, but sometimes you have to (restarting on hill climbs, ratcheting cranks over rocks). Going to try a longer chain and swapping in the WT provided, longer b-screw.


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

hokiebrett said:


> Trek Remedy 9.9
> X9 Type 2 Med Cage with stock b-screw
> XO shifter
> 42T GC
> ...


Think about what aligns your chain with the selected rear cog, its the RD. So without a RD your chain would try to center itself in alignment with the front chain ring. Going forward the RD perfectly aligns the chain because it guides the chain before it sets on the cassete. In reverse or backpedaling its on the cassette first and takes away much of the RD ability to align it, so the chain trys to return to center. The further from center and it seems the bigger the gears (i think its easier to fall down, than up) the more it trys to return to center. So adjusting the centerline of your chain ring more toward your bigger cog should help it stay on them.


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

jspyderr said:


> Think about what aligns your chain with the selected rear cog, its the RD. So without a RD your chain would try to center itself in alignment with the front chain ring. Going forward the RD perfectly aligns the chain because it guides the chain before it sets on the cassete. In reverse or backpedaling its on the cassette first and takes away much of the RD ability to align it, so the chain trys to return to center. The further from center and it seems the bigger the gears (i think its easier to fall down, than up) the more it trys to return to center. So adjusting the centerline of your chain ring more toward your bigger cog should help it stay on them.


Makes sense and worth a try. But, to be honest, I didn't expect to have chainline issues starting with a 3x crankset, running an (already offset) 104BCD chain ring in the middle cog.

Unfortunately, its a BB95 frame, so I'll have to find some 2mm chain ring spacers to push the chain ring further inboard.


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

hokiebrett said:


> Makes sense and worth a try. But, to be honest, I didn't expect to have chainline issues starting with a 3x crankset, running an (already offset) 104BCD chain ring in the middle cog.
> 
> Unfortunately, its a BB95 frame, so I'll have to find some 2mm chain ring spacers to push the chain ring further inboard.


You could also try an e.13 chainring. They are reversible for 49mm or 50mm chainline. Guidering M 104 | the hive


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

Looks good, unfortunately no 30T. My other option would be a 28T or 30T 64BCD from Absolute Black. But I already own my RF 30T, so I'll try to find a way to make it work.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Maybe you can try putting some washers between the spider and chainring. 1 or 2mm might be all you need.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

So this should be my "final" hack 42T setup. I came from a Shimano XT Shadow Plus RD and XT I-Spec shifter. I have found that the SRAM with the Type 2 RD shifts more precise than the Shimano setup does. This includes XTR.

This is in the three small cogs...once above the 19...they all shift good.

The Shimano is slow to shift and if you let up on the lever too soon...that chain will not move up to the next cog. The 15 (or 16 if you got the OneUp cog) seems to shift the slowest. Press the lever, hear the click, continue to hold till the chain moves up the cog. Sometimes shifting from the 19 to the 15...the chain will miss the 15 and fall onto the 13 and move back up to the 15. Even after getting the 16T from OU...the shifting still didn't improve much.

So now I have the SRAM. With the SRAM...once you hear the click...you can let up and the chain will move up. The shifting is still a bit slower...but the shifts seem to be more precise. The hunting or ticking is greatly reduced...almost to a "normal" shifting feel. You don't need to hold down the lever to get the chain to move up. Only time I found the shifting to skip slightly is when I'm shifting under heavy load.

Frame: Specialized Carve Pro
Shifter: SRAM X0
RD: SRAM X9 Type 2
Cassette: SRAM 1030, OneUp 42T, OneUp 16T cog
Chain: KMC x10
Chainring: Raceface N/W 30T

Rode it on the trail...and I believe this setup is going to be as good as it gets without going XX1/01. Of course YMMV.

https://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z14/RS_VR6/Bike stuff/20140421_142409_zpsenaw7xph.jpg


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

Just a note. I have been riding my Wolftooth 42T for over 400 miles now and love it but was having some real shifting problems. Turns out it was so simple, but I thought I would share this. I have a 135mm x 12mm maxle rear through axle and I regularly take it off and on since I have my bike with me on business trips but want my bike hidden inside my car. I had not tightened down the rear axle completely. It was tight but obviously not tight enough. I had a ride & a half before I realized this is critical with this big cog set-up. Once I hand torqued it firm but obviously not stripping it, it shifted perfectly again. Just thought I would share that. Good Luck!


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

@rs vr6...didyou use a long cage?

Sent from my GT-B5330 using Tapatalk


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

RS VR6 said:


> So this should be my "final" hack 42T setup. I came from a Shimano XT Shadow Plus RD and XT I-Spec shifter. I have found that the SRAM with the Type 2 RD shifts more precise than the Shimano setup does. This includes XTR.
> 
> This is in the three small cogs...once above the 19...they all shift good.
> 
> ...


thank you for posting your results, added to your rep  Just curious if you tried your sram shifter and RD with XT cassette?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

So I had to bail out on the General Lee cassette. The place I ordered from sent the Sram version and doesn't have the Shimano one in stock.

Any way, I have a 30t WT wide narrow front ring and the 42t WT cog with a 12t lock ring on the way.

How bad is this going to be without a clutched RD? Anyone running one with out one?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

bosbik said:


> @rs vr6...didyou use a long cage?


Oops...I used a medium cage.



jspyderr said:


> thank you for posting your results, added to your rep  Just curious if you tried your sram shifter and RD with XT cassette?


Haha...thanks.

The XT cassette did cross my mind. Maybe next month. :cornut:


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

Just put up a little 40t/16t review on my blog:
J Swell: On the Up with OneUp

Much better function than the 42t.


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## Makoto (Sep 10, 2007)

Can anyone confirm if the 16t OneUp cog has shift ramps on one side? I installed one today and my XT medium mech is having a bit of trouble shifting from the 13t to the 16t. Just thought I'd ask here before I pull the cassette. Thanks.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

You have to make sure you have the cog "clocked" in the proper position. The SR or SH has to be in the wide gap of the hub body. The wide gap should be to the right of the narrowest spline.

Installing OneUp Components' New 16 Tooth Cog - NSMB.com


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## FreshWaterLake (Sep 29, 2012)

I was looking closely at the oneup 16t cog for Shimano fitting, I do not understand how the shifting from 16t to 19t can be considered proper even though it may be working. 
Even when putting the “SH” logo into the bigger/fat slot, the ramp is not aligned properly against the other cassette cogs’ ramps. There is a relief tooth and a catch-on tooth on the 19t cog to “catch” the chain when up-shifting from 16t.

From the above link to nsmb's picture, it will look correct if the ramp of the oneup 16t is rotated further clockwise another 45~50degree.
Maybe oneup design this 16t to work commonly for Sram and had to compromise the ramp alignment.

The only 16t cog I see to be align perfectly to Shimano cassette is the XT 16t cog Y1YR16000, modified and installed 180deg out of phase. 

I am using hope 40T-rex with Shimano Y1YR16000, XT 773GS RD (with modified P-tension spring) and it shifted well in all gear range.


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## SirSlow (Mar 31, 2014)

I took the advice of Aba Grizzly and put back the 17t and removed the 11t and used a 12t lockring on my 1x10 GC setup. The smoothness of the shifting at the lower end has returned. With my 30t up front and 13t in back I can spin out on the downhills but, for myself, would rarely want to do that. I have the 1x10 GC hack on two bikes, 1 Sram & 1 Shimano, and I agree with RS VR6 that the Sram has the crisper shifting.


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

Using a Shimano 9sp 16T (from a old, donor 11-32 9 cassette) with an XT 10sp cassette and SRAM controls works well for me.


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

hokiebrett said:


> Using a Shimano 9sp 16T (from a old, donor 11-32 9 cassette) with an XT 10sp cassette and SRAM controls works well for me.


both wolf tooth and oneup recommend sram RD, oneup had no preference to sram or shimano cassette, wolf tooth actually liked shimano cassette better but I think it might be a ford vs chevy scenario. im sure either brand cassette works fine. glad to hear yours is working great. my ingredients finally on the way, yah!! 1x10 here I come


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## Makoto (Sep 10, 2007)

I installed a OneUp 40t and 16t on my Shimano XT cassette. I'm using an XT medium cage rear mech w/ clutch. I also installed a RF NW 32t up front. I got out today for my first ride on the setup. So far, I am very pleased with this setup. I am getting a bit of delay shifting from the 13t to the OneUp 16t and clocked it per the NSMB instructions above. If that's the only downside to this setup, I can handle it. Thanks to all who have posted in this thread. I used much information before deciding on this change.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Interestingly I started my setup with an X9 setup and just swapped it over to an SLX setup with much better results. The SLX needed much less B screw adjustment and shifts much more smoothly...  My setup is now:

PG-1070 Cassette
SLX Long Gage RD
SLX Shifter
SRAM 1050 chain
WT GC42
WT 30t FR
XON 12t lockring running 13t-42t (literally arrive moments after my original post!) Awesome!!!

And since it obviously makes a difference this is on a 2014 Heckler.

Prior to this I had my finger on the buy button for an X01 setup, as I was not happy with the X9 setup. I'm now super pleased this has worked out!

Edit: Back pedal chain drop is more controlled as well if I back pedal slowly the chain will remain on.


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## FreshWaterLake (Sep 29, 2012)

geraldooka said:


> Interestingly I started my setup with an X9 setup and just swapped it over to an SLX setup with much better results. The SLX needed much less B screw adjustment and shifts much more smoothly...  My setup is now:
> 
> PG-1070 Cassette
> SLX Long Gage RD
> ...


geraldooka, which model of the SLX RD are you using that have a better clearance?
M663, M670 or M675?
Thanks.


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

Just received one up 16t cog and shimano xt cassette. When lining it up the way one up recommends (using SH setting) it's clocked about 3 teeth to the left. When i line it up with SR setting its clocked 1 tooth to the right and this is honestly as close as it gets. The factory ones are ofc all aligned. Should I go with SH or SR? Still waiting on RD, so i havent ridden it yet. I did email one up for info on it (update for you when I get it) but was curious if everyone is seeing the same with theirs. And wondering if the shift gates have to be aligned for it to shift well. If so, why?


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

FreshWaterLake said:


> geraldooka, which model of the SLX RD are you using that have a better clearance?
> M663, M670 or M675?
> Thanks.


I believe it is the m675 came on my 2014 Heckler. Had my first ride today all worked like a dream. Love the 13-42 cassette!!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Unforgiving (Sep 26, 2012)

Will this Shimano XTR M970 Lockring > Components > Drivetrain > Cassettes | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop 12t lockring work if i take off my 11t cog says its a 9speed 12t lockring ! is that what i need ? for removing the 11 and just going 13-42 ?

thanks


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## FreshWaterLake (Sep 29, 2012)

geraldooka said:


> I believe it is the m675 came on my 2014 Heckler. Had my first ride today all worked like a dream. Love the 13-42 cassette!!
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks geraldooka.
I only had SLX RD-M670 GS (non-clutch) and XT RD-M786 GS (clutch) to compared. (unfortunately, I do not have SLX 675 to measure)
It seems that RD-M786 is slightly longer compared to the SLX and my theory(still need more evaluation) is that the longer XT should wrap around the chain slightly better.

Someone mentioned in the previous post that a guide pulley without the slight L-R movement works better. That could be a factor too when comparing XT and SLX.

It could also be your cassette range 13-42 is slightly easier to tune correctly since you do not have to drop to the 11 teeth which is the main problem for chain wrap..


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

unforgiving, i'm running that same one, but it's mated to a 12t. i'm sure you'll be fine on a 13t, i'd do it. actually, i will be doing it as i don't like the xt 9 speed 12t cog i am running. i dremmel'd out the large tab to clock it, but it don't want to shift nicely with my slx cassette. i have a one up on the way but hearing the stories i might just throw it in the parts bin. i ordered a xt 10 speed 16t cog off ebay so hopefully i can add my 11 and 13 back.


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## FreshWaterLake (Sep 29, 2012)

For those who are interested to see the 16t cog modification.
16t cog : 9sp VS 10sp (applies to Shimano XT/XTR cassette only)
(Note both will require modification by filing away the big/fat slot and rotate out of phase to align the ramps properly)


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## Aszors (Dec 11, 2013)

After extensive testing on two different bikes, I now have both shifting beautifully! I had an xt non clutched der on my rigid fat bike on sram cassette with hope 40T and oneup 16t runnin like a dream! I then decided since I was running an xt clutched and xt cassette hope 40T and oneup 16T on my AM (it as well shifted beautifully) that I would upgrade the fat bike to clutched too! The only difference between the two bikes other then the obvious suspension/rigid was the cassettes one xt and one sram 1030. I could not get the fatbike to shift any what even remotely acceptable! In the end I removed the 11T on the fat bike as it's a rarely used gear for me on that bike anyways! It now shifts perfect! On the trails/stand. I'm currently using the stock sram 11T lock ring and appears to grip the 13T with plenary of surface contact and holds very well! I do have a 12T lock ring on order if I need it?


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## JimmyDo (Jun 1, 2012)

Belladonna, Did you figure out what the problem was? I have a very similar problem, with the 1up 42t /16t. Can't get it to shift up/down properly at 16 and 28 t, if I optimize one, the other is rat-tastic. B screw in / out, cable tension up/down, checked alignment on der hangar, nothing works. Running XT long cage, 11-36 SLX cassette, HG-X chain, RF 32t on XT crank, about 150 mountain miles - had the bike less than a month. This sucks. Followed instructions exactly, with the exception that I ground out the swedges on the SLX pins to disassemble instead of cutting the spacer with a hacksaw-


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

*Shimano 8 speed 16 tooth on Sram!!!!!!!*

*I just installed a 16 tooth off an old shimano 8 speed Hg70 cassette on my sram 1050 cassette and its working flawlessly filed the big space and clocked to the sram ramps. working great! no hesitation whatsoever:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: I'm curious how it will work on shimano cassette.. *


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## tiltedworld (Aug 2, 2011)

I have to say even though I love the weight reduction and general concept behind this modification, I'm becoming increasingly frustrated by it and the issues I am having.

My setup:
2013 Reign
WT42t GC
WT30t on a SRAM S1000 2x10 crank (outer position 50mm chainline)
SRAM 1030 cassette (17t removed)
SRAM X9 Medium cage (not type 2)

In order to get the clearance needed to ramp onto the 42t, I had to use the longer B-screw bottomed all the way - which put the screw on the very edge of the derailleur hanger, but the shifting was acceptable throughout the range, with the mid-range hesitation other people were describing, not that bothersome to me. Got out for a few rides and all is well.

On cleaning the bike, I noticed that the corner of pulley guard on the RD was rubbing for an instant on the 42-36 downshift. I could hear it when riding but was pretty quick and didn't think about it. So I took the wheel off and filed it back a smidge so it wouldn't rub. Upon wheel re installation, I noticed that the B-screw had slipped to the inside of the hanger and even marred it a little. I was able to reposition it back to a now even more precarious position, but now the RD would not shift down off the 42 - period. 

I'm totally frustrated and taking it to my LBS this week but I'm wondering how to make this work or if anyone else has had this issue? I'm already thinking I will need to replace the hanger, but don't know if there is one with a different shape at the end of it to hold the B-screw in a better position?


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

tiltedworld said:


> I have to say even though I love the weight reduction and general concept behind this modification, I'm becoming increasingly frustrated by it and the issues I am having.
> 
> My setup:
> 2013 Reign
> ...


Could your chain be a little too short?


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## tiltedworld (Aug 2, 2011)

I've got plenty of range left in the RD. I didn't need to shorten at all from stock. I'll try to take a picture when I get a break.


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## tiltedworld (Aug 2, 2011)

Here are two shots in both the 36t and 42t positions. You can see a bit better on the 36t shot how the B-Screw is bottomed/perched on the hanger, as well as the clearance issue from the RD pulley guard.


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## Tuono (Apr 24, 2013)

did you get the longer B screw? I had to go a little longer. I also got some great assistance from the guys at Wolf Tooth. I ditched the 15 rather than 17, but also am using shimano derailer...


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## SirSlow (Mar 31, 2014)

Well Tiltedworld something looks amiss. On my x9 type 2 I barely had to turn the stock b-tension screw to get it to clear the 42. I believe the WT website mentions that a clutch RD works best. I think mine is a long cage. I believe I have the same crankset also. It was set up as a double. I removed the rings and placed the WT on the inside between crankarms and frame. With the built in spacer on the WT it gave a pretty good chainline to my eyes but I didn't measure it. Have you tried contacting WT for some guidence?


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## tiltedworld (Aug 2, 2011)

Yes, that is the longer B-screw. It's not a type 2 X9, that could be one issue. My S1000 was only a 2x10 and it was the outside ring that had the 104BCD. I'm not sure what the BCD is on the inner ring, but would have to go to something like the Absolute Black and a bash to improve the chain line. Even when it was working, the chain would drop to the 36t at the slightest backpedal.

I think I will also contact WT, but I can see why people get frustrated with the setup.


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## maindog (Mar 4, 2014)

tiltedworld said:


> Here are two shots in both the 36t and 42t positions. You can see a bit better on the 36t shot how the B-Screw is bottomed/perched on the hanger, as well as the clearance issue from the RD pulley guard.
> 
> View attachment 889144
> View attachment 889145


What year is your derailleur? They clearly state 2011 and older SRAM derailleurs don't work.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

_"Note: the GC is not compatible with 2011 or older SRAM rear derailleurs due to the location of the upper jockey wheel. It is difficult or impossible to get satisfactory shifting with the 2011 or older SRAM rear derailleurs so we do not recommend using the GC if you have one of these. The GC works great with the newer SRAM rear derailleurs however."_

42T GC cog for Shimano ? wolftoothcomponents.com

The good thing is a X9 Type 2 RD isn't that expensive.


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## tiltedworld (Aug 2, 2011)

I'm not sure what year it is, but I figured it was a 2013 bike I wouldn't have an older RD. My LBS set my bike up with an X9 due to a defect in the X7 it came with.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

tiltedworld said:


> I'm not sure what year it is, but I figured it was a 2013 bike I wouldn't have an older RD. My LBS set my bike up with an X9 due to a defect in the X7 it came with.


I had the same problem on my x9 setup. If you can try an SLX or XT or XTR even the Deore might work med or long cage. I believe its the b-link in the standard Shimano config that provides more space on certain bike drop out/hanger designs. Your chain also looks a tad short depending on chain growth of that bike.


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## GChambers (Jan 7, 2010)

Anyone have a problem getting their 16t cog from One Up? I ordered on April 18th. Got the 42t three days later but they didn't include the 16t. Sent them an email letting them know and they apologized and said they would send one ASAP. A week later(yesterday) I sent them another email. They told me they were out of stock at the warehouse and would send when they get them in. 

I get that they're probably selling the hell out of these and they're possibly having trouble keeping up. That's cool. They should just communicate it.

Just curious if anyone else is having the same problem or if this is an isolated incident.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

GChambers said:


> I get that they're probably selling the hell out of these and they're possibly having trouble keeping up. That's coo. They should just communicate it.


My problem is they AREN'T selling them. I mean come on, its been a month since it was unveiled, put it up on the website for orders already!


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## kosmo (Oct 27, 2004)

blaklabl said:


> My problem is they AREN'T selling them. I mean come on, its been a month since it was unveiled, put it up on the website for orders already!


I suspect they are barely able -- or not quite able -- to keep up with the 16t demand that occurs from the pairing of them with every 42 and 40 cog they sell.

Until then, I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for them to sell the 16t cog on its own.

Just my guess.


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## temporoad (Jul 27, 2006)

kosmo said:


> I suspect they are barely able -- or not quite able -- to
> 
> Until then, I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for them to sell the 16t cog on its own.
> 
> Just my guess.


Mine is ordered and should be shipping the 1st week of May.


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

temporoad said:


> Mine is ordered and should be shipping the 1st week of May.


Yep. I've got three on order, straight from One Up's website. Also supposed to ship next week.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

tiltedworld said:


> Here are two shots in both the 36t and 42t positions. You can see a bit better on the 36t shot how the B-Screw is bottomed/perched on the hanger, as well as the clearance issue from the RD pulley guard.
> 
> View attachment 889144
> View attachment 889145


something really not right when rd cage it either hitting or damn near hitting cogs. Pics look like 42t ring is inside the rd cage.

Sent from my Nokia Stupidphone using Tapatalk


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## GChambers (Jan 7, 2010)

I'll be curious to see if others are getting theirs over the next few days while I still don't have mine.

Edit: Seconds ago I just got an email from them telling me it will be early next month. It's not that big of a deal that they ran out. I get that. I can still put the bike together and ride it. The thing that bugs me is their lack of communication. Maybe they should work on that a bit.


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## mayonays (Oct 22, 2010)

tiltedworld said:


> I'm not sure what year it is, but I figured it was a 2013 bike I wouldn't have an older RD. My LBS set my bike up with an X9 due to a defect in the X7 it came with.


If they just grabbed a RD from the back, it very likely could be an older one. I believe SRAM stamps a date on their products, not sure where it'd be though...


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

I ordered a 40T early last week and it came with the 16T cog. 
Set it up yesterday using a shimano XTR shifter/XTR Type 2 Rear derailleur/XTR cassette.
Just riding around the block and it feels like it really doesn't shift all that great. 
I'm going to order a 16T XT cog and see if that makes it better. If I can't get it to shift well at 13/16/19 I'll be selling the 40T and 16T cogs.
Also noticed that adjusting the B screw made the shift lever quite a bit harder to push so not too happy about that either. But going to go on a trail ride first to see if the additional gear is worth the negative trade-offs.


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## tiltedworld (Aug 2, 2011)

geraldooka said:


> I had the same problem on my x9 setup. If you can try an SLX or XT or XTR even the Deore might work med or long cage. I believe its the b-link in the standard Shimano config that provides more space on certain bike drop out/hanger designs. Your chain also looks a tad short depending on chain growth of that bike.


I'm glad I'm not the only one that has had this issue. WT didn't think this particular RD would have issues like the older X9's, but also mentioned adding links to the chain. I will try that first and see if it allieviates the issue.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

tiltedworld said:


> I'm glad I'm not the only one that has had this issue. WT didn't think this particular RD would have issues like the older X9's, but also mentioned adding links to the chain. I will try that first and see if it allieviates the issue.


Yup. I was surprised as most of the reports I read said the x9 was the better choice. So I swapped it over from my N9. Low and behold it sucked, swapped back the original SLX and it required very little b tension adjustment and worked great even before moving to 13-42t now it's excellent. Not quite perfect but unnoticeable when riding. I suspect sram works better on some rides than shimano... It just goes to show there are a few variables going on here I'm certain there no one perfect setup for all bikes.

I love the fact that I now get the gearing I want at a performance level that is acceptable to me on cheap and easily replaceable drivetrain components. I'd much rather spend the big bucks on things like custom suspension, wheels, beer, trips, family..... 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## tiltedworld (Aug 2, 2011)

Agreed on the performance for price aspect. I'm still relatively new (re-entry after a decade off) in mtb but as I learned from riding/racing motos, its easy to get sucked into performance mods and I'm trying to limit changes that I'd actually feel at whatever skill level I'm riding at. 

No date code on the RD. I haven't had a chance to take to the LBS yet, but if I require a new RD, I might just wait to see the pricing on the Shimano 1x11. My X7 shifter is on an upgrade list and at some point it may just be easier to make the switch, especially if it doesn't require new wheels at the same time (as does the XX1 in my case).


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## tiltedworld (Aug 2, 2011)

mayonays said:


> If they just grabbed a RD from the back, it very likely could be an older one. I believe SRAM stamps a date on their products, not sure where it'd be though...


Nope, no date code...


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## Billinsd (May 10, 2012)

Hi, I have a SRAM 26x39 and a SRAM 24x38 crank set and 11x36 SRAM pg30 cassette. Can I swap out my 24Tor 26T with a 28Tand run a 11x42? I want to run a 1x10 28T 11x42 what would I need to do to convert? Thanks Bill


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

temporoad said:


> Mine is ordered and should be shipping the 1st week of May.


^ this


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

geraldooka said:


> I love the fact that I now get the gearing I want at a performance level that is acceptable to me on cheap and easily replaceable drivetrain components. I'd much rather spend the big bucks on things like custom suspension, wheels, beer, trips, family.....


at least you have your list in the correct priorities, lol


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## Billinsd (May 10, 2012)

Billinsd said:


> Hi, I have a SRAM 26x39 and a SRAM 24x38 crank set and 11x36 SRAM pg30 cassette. Can I swap out my 24Tor 26T with a 28Tand run a 11x42? I want to run a 1x10 28T 11x42 what would I need to do to convert? Thanks Bill


Looks like I could put a Wolftooth direct mount Chain Ring on my GXP crank. Then buy a Wolftooth 42t for the rear. I got a Sram X9 2. Looks like a winner for under $200? Direct Mount for SRAM GXP Cranks ? wolftoothcomponents.com


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## clarkrw3 (Feb 21, 2011)

Billinsd said:


> Looks like I could put a Wolftooth direct mount Chain Ring on my GXP crank. Then buy a Wolftooth 42t for the rear. I got a Sram X9 2. Looks like a winner for under $200? Direct Mount for SRAM GXP Cranks ? wolftoothcomponents.com


Perfect set up and you can run a 28t chainring if you like. I have this in my XO BB30 crank and it works perfect! Thanks WT!!


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## rweddy1 (Mar 22, 2004)

I am running a WT 42T with SRAM PG-1070 Cassette 11x36 with a race face 30T narrow/wide chain ring on my moots ybb 29er. 
I am using a SRAM PC1051 chain but not loving the shifting all the time, thinking I should upgrade the chain. Any recommendations? I have read of a few guys running 1x11 speed sram chains because they are stronger, but I worry that it might be too narrow???


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## clarkrw3 (Feb 21, 2011)

rweddy1 said:


> I am running a WT 42T with SRAM PG-1070 Cassette 11x36 with a race face 30T narrow/wide chain ring on my moots ybb 29er.
> I am using a SRAM PC1051 chain but not loving the shifting all the time, thinking I should upgrade the chain. Any recommendations? I have read of a few guys running 1x11 speed sram chains because they are stronger, but I worry that it might be too narrow???


Not too narrow. Works great, actually probably better than any other and super strong. Highly recommend the xx1 chain

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## rweddy1 (Mar 22, 2004)

clarkrw3 said:


> Not too narrow. Works great, actually probably better than any other and super strong. Highly recommend the xx1 chain
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Thanks also does the xx1 chain use a power link or the snap in link ? I really miss the 9 speed power link with its ease of removal.


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## Lapsus (Jan 1, 2012)

I will be soon seting up my drivetrain 1 x 10 with a One-up 42t sprocket. I already have an SLX M665 double chainset and I will be buying an XT 11-36 cassete, XT rear shifter, an Xt or KMC chain (feel free to sugest a goood one) and an XT M786 Shadow+ deraileur.

I'd like to ask if it would be better to go with a long or medium cage deraileur. Medium cage has 35t capacity so theoretically it would be OK but some real world data would be nice too. Also feel free to comment on the setup I have chosen. I have riden both Shimano and SRAM drivetrains and lI like both companies but I will most probably go for XT because I have some store credit on an LBS that caries only Shimano components. Plus I was impressed with my Xt disk brakes.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

Billinsd said:


> Looks like I could put a Wolftooth direct mount Chain Ring on my GXP crank. Then buy a Wolftooth 42t for the rear. I got a Sram X9 2. Looks like a winner for under $200? Direct Mount for SRAM GXP Cranks ? wolftoothcomponents.com


I like my wolftooth direct mount - I have a 30t which suits me and where I ride - but you're right that 24 front 36 rear is replaced exactly by 28 front and 42 rear


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

Lapsus said:


> I will be soon seting up my drivetrain 1 x 10 with a One-up 42t sprocket. I already have an SLX M665 double chainset and I will be buying an XT 11-36 cassete, XT rear shifter, an Xt or KMC chain (feel free to sugest a goood one) and an XT M786 Shadow+ deraileur.
> 
> I'd like to ask if it would be better to go with a long or medium cage deraileur. Medium cage has 35t capacity so theoretically it would be OK but some real world data would be nice too. Also feel free to comment on the setup I have chosen. I have riden both Shimano and SRAM drivetrains and lI like both companies but I will most probably go for XT because I have some store credit on an LBS that caries only Shimano components. Plus I was impressed with my Xt disk brakes.


Yes XT brakes are good, but it doesn't follow that XT mechs shift a 42t cog so well - reading this thread suggests that if you want 42t then buy Sram. I already had shimano mech and shifter so only went to 40t and it works well. This is on a hardtail with short cage, so I can't see any need to go beyond medium cage whatever you do. (If I was starting from scratch I'd be wondering what new Sram X01 combo could be fixed up work with a 11-42 ten speed.)
Also I'd suggest an SLX cassette and drill out the pins holding the cogs together (it's a 1 minute job) so then you have more choices for widening ratios - I've settled on 11,13,18,21...using some 8 speed cogs in there.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

I wouldn't advise either SRAM or Shimano until you try them... I went SRAM and it didn't work. Shimano on the other hand did. Try and return what doesn't work it will be much less frustrating than fighting to make something function, that just never will. Also if you live in a place like BC drop the 11t and run 13 to 42, unless you pedal to the trails on the road.

I tried X9 etc

I run:
Slx m675 long standard mount (b-link)
Pg 1070 cassette with 12t lock ring 13-42
1050 chain
Slx shifter




Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## Lapsus (Jan 1, 2012)

arclarke said:


> Yes XT brakes are good, but it doesn't follow that XT mechs shift a 42t cog so well - reading this thread suggests that if you want 42t then buy Sram. I already had shimano mech and shifter so only went to 40t and it works well. This is on a hardtail with short cage, so I can't see any need to go beyond medium cage whatever you do. (If I was starting from scratch I'd be wondering what new Sram X01 combo could be fixed up work with a 11-42 ten speed.)
> Also I'd suggest an SLX cassette and drill out the pins holding the cogs together (it's a 1 minute job) so then you have more choices for widening ratios - I've settled on 11,13,18,21...using some 8 speed cogs in there.


Hmmm.... I could go for Sram X7 I guess. I'm currently using X7 9 sp transmission and I'm quite pleased with it. If 10 sp X7 work well with the 42t cog I could go for that. Any thoughts on an X7 Type 2 med. cage dearaileur?

As for the casete I'm not confident in drilling out pins etc so I'd probably go for an XT or SRAM 1070 cassete and use the 16t cog provided by One-Up. I'm happy with my curent SRAM cassete so I'll probably go for SRAM.


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## Dadefatsax (Nov 16, 2010)

Looking at Hope T-Rex 40 and a WT GC 42 for SRAM. Anyone have ride reports on the Hope? Also what is the best cog to remove on a SRAM cassette? Running:

WT 32T upfront
SRAM X0 Type 2 Mid Cage
Sram Chain
Sram 11-36 1050


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Dadefatsax said:


> Looking at Hope T-Rex 40 and a WT GC 42 for SRAM. Anyone have ride reports on the Hope? Also what is the best cog to remove on a SRAM cassette? Running:
> 
> WT 32T upfront
> SRAM X0 Type 2 Mid Cage
> ...


Either cog will function similarly, pick the one that you want the least and remove it or keep both and run it 13-42 (which runs best). I haven't tried the hope but being that it is 40t it will make any setup easier.

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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

geraldooka said:


> Either cog will function similarly, pick the one that you want the least and remove it or keep both and run it 13-42 (which runs best). I haven't tried the hope but being that it is 40t it will make any setup easier.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I don't understand the logic of paying more money to go from an 11-36 to a 13-42, when the 11-36 has more range and you can just use a smaller chainring to get the low end that you get with the 42 tooth cog. Maybe there is an advantage that I am missing that's worth the money?


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

scottg said:


> I don't understand the logic of paying more money to go from an 11-36 to a 13-42, when the 11-36 has more range and you can just use a smaller chainring to get the low end that you get with the 42 tooth cog. Maybe there is an advantage that I am missing that's worth the money?


The ability to run a larger front chain ring. On bikes with high chain growth the larger the front chain ring the lower the pedal kick back.

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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I actually removed my GC completely and have great shifting again. Once it was removed I dont really miss it and having crisp fast shifts was welcomed back.


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

geraldooka said:


> The ability to run a larger front chain ring. On bikes with high chain growth the larger the front chain ring the lower the pedal kick back.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


Thanks. I assume that is much likely to be an issue with longer travel bikes?


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## tiltedworld (Aug 2, 2011)

dirtrider76 said:


> I actually removed my GC completely and have great shifting again. Once it was removed I dont really miss it and having crisp fast shifts was welcomed back.


I am leaning that way too and just running the 1x10 with the 30t and 11x36. I'll suffer for a bit, but might be a better solution for a while till the Shimano system is out. I'm not terribly impressed with the chainline on the outer mount of the 2x10, but it will be a little better with the 36 out back. Then I can decide better if I want to replace the system with the 1x11.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I ran a 30t 11x36 before and do again now. Its a good combo and if I run out of top end I'm usually chasing gravity anyways. My plan was to jump to a 34t with the 11x42 but I'll pass.


Good luck to all you guys trying to cobble stuff together though!


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

scottg said:


> Thanks. I assume that is much likely to be an issue with longer travel bikes?


Typically, the more travel the further the rear axle moves away from the bottom bracket. Manufacturers call it anti-squat. The chain tension reduces the amount the bike squats in its travel. A positive characteristic if you prefer to avoid switches and levers on your suspension (I'm a set and forget kinda rider). Certain suspension designs have very little chain growth others like the Mach 6 or my Heckler have high chain growth.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

arclarke said:


> Yes XT brakes are good, but it doesn't follow that XT mechs shift a 42t cog so well - reading this thread suggests that if you want 42t then buy Sram. I already had shimano mech and shifter so only went to 40t and it works well. This is on a hardtail with short cage, so I can't see any need to go beyond medium cage whatever you do. (If I was starting from scratch I'd be wondering what new Sram X01 combo could be fixed up work with a 11-42 ten speed.)
> Also I'd suggest an SLX cassette and drill out the pins holding the cogs together (it's a 1 minute job) so then you have more choices for widening ratios - I've settled on 11,13,18,21...using some 8 speed cogs in there.


Why would you say that? As posted there are good and bad experiences with both.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

dirtrider76 said:


> I ran a 30t 11x36 before and do again now. Its a good combo and if I run out of top end I'm usually chasing gravity anyways. My plan was to jump to a 34t with the 11x42 but I'll pass.
> 
> Good luck to all you guys trying to cobble stuff together though!


Wasn't hard, put it all on, adjusted it and it's working.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Agree not hard when you are open to trying options. Honestly if your starting from scratch order extra and return what doesn't work.

I just received my XT RD and XTR shifter kit, I love Jenson's fast shipping. I can confirm that it functions just as well as the SLX RD/SLX shifter the XT RD I ordered is a GS (medium cage) no issues on cage length except that I can probably take a link off the chain. I bought the XT/XTR kit because I needed a derailleur for another bike. The cost diff between XT RD and SLX is pretty small at 20 bucks so I thought may as well get the XT. I don't believe it works any better. The XTR shifter is pretty different though not necessarily better but crisper more positive shift feel and I didn't notice the double down click capability on the SLX though it may be there and I just never tried pushing hard enough!


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

The hack 42T setups are a crap shoot. What works for one guy...may not work for the next.

I believe that I got mine as dialed as I can possibly get it. The slow shifting is worth the compromise to not have to run a 2x. I tried running a 30x36...and on rides with multiple climbs...especially with long climbs at the end its just too much. Sucks when everyone else can spin...but you're muscling it up the climb. My legs were so tired that I can't even enjoy the ride down. Even with the 40T there is a difference. Friend of mine went with a 40T for the sake of shifting was not able to match my cadence on a short 21% climb. If I was running a 36T in the back...that would have left me pushing.

I went from Shimano XT to SRAM X9 RD, X0 shifter. The shifting is still slow in the smaller cogs...but the shifting feels a bit more precise...and I don't need to hold the shift lever to get into the 16T.

Switching to SRAM was a last ditch effort...if it didn't work out...I would have just gone back to my 2x.

What we need is a RD that can handle the 42T without the cranking of the b-tension screw. You can fiddle the the cogs all you want...but the shift quality is still suffering. You have to compromise something with this setup whether its gearing or shift quality. Even with the OU 16T...yes the steps are smaller...but the shifting from the 13 to the 16 is not that great.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

TwoTone said:


> Wasn't hard, put it all on, adjusted it and it's working.


Yeah so did mine but it did not work as well as the 11-36. I rather have something that works really well than something that works OK though.


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## Ridefat1981 (Mar 17, 2014)

I have an x9 long cage and x9 shifter and it works great. I didn't need the long b screw. My buddy has an SLX and his was a lot more work to get it to work.


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

update: after exhausting research here and everywhere (thx everyone for your help and info!), finally did the swap to 1x10 from 3x9. (bike is: older trek 6000 hardtail)

Parts: x9 shifter, x9 type 2 RD med cage, 34t narrow wide race face, xt 11-36 cassette (lightly used), kmc x10.93 chain, oneup 42t cog with 16t cog (clocked as instructed, SH).

setup: chain: was pretty close to length (about a link or so too long) so I just put it together to check fit. In the smaller cogs, the RD wrapped so far, that the chain was rubbing on itself. I removed a link and retried, with the same results. So with one more link removed I had success. Not sure I could have removed another link without the RD being held against its max in the largest cog. It would seem a med cage is probably as small as you can go.
RD limit screws: quick adjust with cable disconnected, no problems
RD "b" screw: started around 6mm of clearance, adjusted down (backed off screw) until it started to make noise, then back up just until it quit, trying to keep it at its minimum.
Shifter adjustment: set cable tension for largest cog, shifted to smallest cog ok but would not shift back up to 9. adjusted to make smaller cogs shift proper. Shifted to largest cog, then it would not shift back down to 2. Arghhh! OK the whole reason for poor shifting with a GC is supposed to be, too much "b" tension (because the 42t cog is so large, "b" tension is maxed out) in reality, it never was close to being maxed out with the x9 RD). So I"ll compromise on "b" tension. I backed it off until noise and shifting where just tolerable. now re-adjust shifter, after more tinkering I could just make it shift all the gears but it was so close to not shifting on both high and low. As a matter of fact, just one click of the barrel adjuster in either direction, would throw off shifting on one side or the other. keep in mind this was a working, riding, 3x9. crap! so I have a noisy largest cog shift from my "b" tension compromise, smallest cog tension just barely enough to shift to 9, large cog tension just barely loose enough to shift to 2. Lets check the cable and housing! Well they seem good, but screw it, on goes new cable housing. Nope, not it! Oh, am I tired! off to bed!
A sleepless night later, and hopefully a clearer head: The indexing of the shifter is designed to match the spacing of the rear cogs, how could it be too loose on the smallest cog and too tight on the biggest one? In a perfect world, loose on one, equals loose on them all. Sram couldn't have gotten the indexing wrong. The shifter should move the RD the exact distance of each cog on the cassette, you cant even adjust that. You can only adjust tension to get on the largest cog and the shifter allows slack for the RD to pull itself toward the smallest cogs. But somehow indexing is wrong! ..... What if the RD is moving the proper distance but not in the proper direction? In other words, not straight in and out. That would throw off the distance it moves in relation to the cogs! ok then what holds the RD perfectly parallel to the cassette. Yes sir, the RD hanger! It was shifting fine in 3x9, it looks ok, but what else could it be? I don't have the nice tool for straitening a RD hanger, so I used a straight edge and measured from the rim horizontaly on the left and right sides, then vertically on the top and bottom. Yep, its bent! Straightened with adjustable wrench and now shift indexing is great. readjusted cable tension, limit screws, and "B" tension, and at last, its pretty much perfect. 

But I do have a noise while pedaling in the GC as the chain comes off the tooth. Boy that chain angle is sharp. Oddly, there is no problem with the chain dropping down a gear while back pedaling. A quick check of chain line and sure enough its off 5mm (3x crank set, using middle ring). 5mm spacers added (in between spider and chain ring) with longer chain ring bolts and now noise is gone. 

Just local riding so far, but I'm very pleased I stuck it out. Just a note: 1x10 does seem more sensitive to RD hanger alignment, so watch out for that! 

Hope this helps someone, good luck guys and gals! I think I'm going to really like this and as a bonus my bike is 2.6 lbs lighter.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

You can always adjust the chainline by using some small washers in between the chainring and spider.

I found the X9 RD to be super easy to adjust. Much easier than my XT.

*I did everything with the chain off first.*

Installed the RD (I turned the B screw in pretty far before installing)
Set b-tension, (the cage lock on the Type 2 made this alot easier with no cable attatched)
Set the high and low limits
Installed and tensioned the cable. I would turn the barrel adjuster all the way out and in one full turn...pull the cable so that its snug...not tight.

From there I would shift the RD up and check the upper pulley and 42T alighment + clearance. Shift back down the cassette and check 11T and pulley alignment.

Once everything is lined up, install the chain and test ride.


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## SirSlow (Mar 31, 2014)

I have a SLX RD on one of my 1x10 GC conversions. Shifts ok with the clutch off but not so much with clutch on. I just leave it off and don't get any chain slap so I'm ok with it but wanted to know if anyone else has noticed this?


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

Yeah. Best fix is to reduce the clutch tension a bit. Shifts great and doesn't reduce the clutch effectiveness. Also, make sure you have enough b tension, you do need quite a bit to get acceptable shifting.


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## Rhialto (Oct 21, 2009)

Dadefatsax said:


> Looking at Hope T-Rex 40 and a WT GC 42 for SRAM. Anyone have ride reports on the Hope? Also what is the best cog to remove on a SRAM cassette?


I have been using the Hope 40 tooth cassette expander for a few weeks now. On my setup (X9 type 2, RF 30t NW ring, 1070 cassette), it works great. No shifting issues at all - no hesitation, no dropping chain when pedalling backwards, good gearing range for the riding I do.

I started by removing the 17 tooth cog as per Hope's recommendation but I found the gearing jump between 15 and 19 a bit large. I purchased a Token 12 tooth lockring, added back the 17 and removed the 11 tooth cog instead. I hardly ever use the 11 tooth cog on the trails I ride (steep, rocky and technical). However, on-road I will spin out at about 28 km/h (17 mph), which doesn't happen very often as I am hardly ever on the road and when I am, it's just a means to an end.


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## rontarson (Apr 22, 2007)

Just setup and rode my 42T drivetrain:

Wolf Tooth 42T SRAM
RaceFace N/W Ring - 30T
SRAM PG-1030
SRAM PC-1031
SRAM X9 Type 2 Med RD
All new install from a 3x9
Yeti 575

Overall simple setup with very little issue. Dropped the 15T in lieu of the 17T due to my preference and better shift performance. I eventually will drop the 11T and go 13-42 for shifting ease, plus never use 11T. Adjusted chain line to correct for backpedal chain issues. Was very impressed on first couple rides. The 42T acts as though its always been there.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Received my one up 16t cog today after ordering on Wednesday, that was pretty damn fast. Installed tonight, easy-easy and cleaned up the shifting issues I was having between 15-19...happy now.







. It's the shiny one 😉.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

blaklabl said:


> Received my one up 16t cog today after ordering on Wednesday, that was pretty damn fast. Installed tonight, easy-easy and cleaned up the shifting issues I was having between 15-19...happy now.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Did you have to make any derailleur adjustments? I installed min and it shifted well in the stand but had trouble going up from the 16 to 19. Shifts fine in rest of cassette.


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## larsbaby (Apr 11, 2005)

Anyone have experience with a 40t using the zee or Saint RD? Really interested in how it works out...


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

larsbaby said:


> Anyone have experience with a 40t using the zee or Saint RD? Really interested in how it works out...


A friend rides a gc42 with a zee on a nomad, just fine. Where that works on your bike to your liking you won't know till you try. Give it a shot.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## larsbaby (Apr 11, 2005)

geraldooka said:


> A friend rides a gc42 with a zee on a nomad, just fine. Where that works on your bike to your liking you won't know till you try. Give it a shot.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


Thanks, Michael, just wary as I'm a little unsure given the short cage RD... A 42 working is astounding, does he use zero or Saint?


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Zee for sure. He removed the 15t. The non direct mount Shimanos I've seen seem to work really well regardless of cage length. Your wise to be wary it may not work on your bike the same way! If you had the same hubs, and generation Nomad I'd be confident saying it would work just fine. Annoying isn't it?

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

larsbaby said:


> Anyone have experience with a 40t using the zee or Saint RD? Really interested in how it works out...


zee here, & it shifts great to and fro on a hope cog on a nimble 9. b tension until upper jockey and 40 cog teeth are about 2-3mm apart so you can get enough wrap when on the eleven. on a side note i just came from a hack where i dropped the 11 and 13 for a 12. i got the one up today so i threw that in to gain back the 11/13. after saying i never run 11 that much, i guess i under estimated myself a lil because i wanted that 11 several times last wkend. the one up is mated to a slx cassette and found that it shifted best when clocked between sh/sr. i also have a shim 16t on its way so i'll report that later.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Can anyone comment on where the 42t cog ends up relative to the wheel/chainline of the WT 42T vs. Sram XX1?

On my Lenz I have the shifting working just great, but I am having the back pedaling issue because of chain line.

Now other Lenz riders have the same set up except there are using XX1 cassette and don't have issues backpedaling

I just don't see how the XD driver would be able to fit 11 gears and move the 42t cog further outboard at the same time. Yet the 2 conditions above would seem to indicate that.


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

Measure your centerline and adjust your chain ring. I had to use 5mm spacers to get my 3x spider corrected, when i went 1x. No reason to debate what others have, just fix yours.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

jspyderr said:


> Measure your centerline and adjust your chain ring. I had to use 5mm spacers to get my 3x spider corrected, when i went 1x. No reason to debate what others have, just fix yours.


So how would you suggest shimming a direct mount ring?


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

doh (hits self on forehead)! I have no personal experience with direct mount. how far off is your chain ring from centerline? wolf tooth (our others) may offer a narrow wide chain ring with a corrected offset for your application. sorry I couldn't be more helpful.


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## GChambers (Jan 7, 2010)

GChambers said:


> I'll be curious to see if others are getting theirs over the next few days while I still don't have mine.
> 
> Edit: Seconds ago I just got an email from them telling me it will be early next month. It's not that big of a deal that they ran out. I get that. I can still put the bike together and ride it. The thing that bugs me is their lack of communication. Maybe they should work on that a bit.


Got it and got it on the bike. Very pleased.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

rode 20 miles with some mashing on the one up 16 cog and not impressed. whole range is real good shifting except 8th gear it just pops and skips like a mother when under climbing load. b tension is at the sweet spot so i'm just waiting for the shim 16 to show up.


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## cptjack (Jan 14, 2004)

Received my gc and much to my dismay it was a 42 tooth instead of a 40. Sent terse email and received reply: sorry, we will send you out a new one right away and send the other one back at your leisure. Now that's customer service. 40 tooth work perfect wit no degradation in shifting. THe only downer is that I can't pedal backwards in that big ring. Overall I am pleased


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## kosmo (Oct 27, 2004)

fishwrinkle said:


> rode 20 miles with some mashing on the one up 16 cog and not impressed. whole range is real good shifting except 8th gear it just pops and skips like a mother when under climbing load. b tension is at the sweet spot so i'm just waiting for the *shim 16* to show up.


What is "the shim 16" you speak of?

My 16 works OK, but not quite up to Shimano standards.


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

fishwrinkle said:


> rode 20 miles with some mashing on the one up 16 cog and not impressed. whole range is real good shifting except 8th gear it just pops and skips like a mother when under climbing load. b tension is at the sweet spot so i'm just waiting for the shim 16 to show up.


Is it just the new 16 tooth that is a problem? Did you use your old chain - -if so, you might have a worn chain and correspondingly worn cassette?


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## LB412 (Nov 28, 2012)

cptjack said:


> Received my gc and much to my dismay it was a 42 tooth instead of a 40. Sent terse email and received reply: sorry, we will send you out a new one right away and send the other one back at your leisure. Now that's customer service. 40 tooth work perfect wit no degradation in shifting. THe only downer is that I can't pedal backwards in that big ring. Overall I am pleased


I don't notice a difference in shifting from 19 up to 42... Works great. Shifting through the 19 to 15 gap was noticeable at first but now I naturally finesse with no issue.

I let a friend who is on a 2x10 XTR set up ride the bike for 10 miles today (2300 ft elevation gain) and he loved it.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

kosmo said:


> What is "the shim 16" you speak of?
> 
> My 16 works OK, but not quite up to Shimano standards.


shimano 16 cog


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

scottg said:


> Is it just the new 16 tooth that is a problem? Did you use your old chain - -if so, you might have a worn chain and correspondingly worn cassette?


yeah it's just the one up 16 that's giving a problem. i'm using a brand new kmc chain and i used a cassette checker for wear and i am good there also. shifting is flawless, but when mashing it skips on the 16 only. i even left it on the 11 and mashed it up a hill and not one skip, so..........


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## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

Running the WT 42 on my Mojo HD with XT cassette, XTR rear derailleur and RF 32NW on RF SIXC cranks.
Less than stellar shifting initially. Backpedalling caused the chain to fall immediately and when i looked at the chain line, it was pretty damn crooked. Terrible shifting through the mid range and pretty good up to the 42.

Removed one spacer from my bb and am hesistant to remove the other, as the d/s crank is close to the swing arm.

Found some 1mm spacers in my tool box and put those on between the crank and chainring to move the ring inboard a bit and that seems to have lessened the back pedalling but still not ideal.

I am also concerned the spacer placement between the crank and ring could cause the carbon fiber to crack or break.

Haven't been able to to get out on the trails to fully test it yet as winter doesnt seem to want to move on yet around here


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## drmayer (Apr 19, 2007)

Got my one up 42t setup today. So far working good on the stand and the road. Shifting to/from the 16t does not seem to be an issue.

My setup:

Surly pugsley
Race face nw 30t
Shimano xt cassette
Sram x9 type 2 mid cage
One up 16t installed
Kmc chain

Some pics:


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## myitch (Jan 25, 2004)

My chain keeps coming off the 11t and scraping my new frame. Damit! With the b - tension being so far out to accommodate the 42t, the chain and derailleur pulley are too far away from the 11t. When shifting at speed it causes the chain to drop off the11t cog. I've adjusted the limits correctly but it either won't shift down to the 11t or drops off and scrapes the frame. These are all new parts too. 

Anyone else with this problem?


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## RRRoubaix (Jan 30, 2011)

Man, now I'm getting nervous- I bought the One Up 42t ring (w/ 16t cog) for an upcoming build. I already have new XTR shifter and rear der.
It sounds like the 42t is a bit more finicky w/ the Shimano setups than the SRAM. Thinking maybe I should return it for a 40t.
I have a Wolftooth 30t for the front, although I may change cranks to Race Face or E*13 (currently XTR M970 triple).
It's gonna be awhile before I do the build, so plenty of time to get the right combo- and for me to second- and third-guess myself.


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

all my research and from the manufactures of the 42t suggest the sram x9 RD shifts best. I have 50 miles on mine now and its great, quite, no chain slaps, no chain drops, don't miss front shifter at all. good luck with yours  (my setup and early troubles in this thread if your interested in that)


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## profro (Mar 6, 2006)

rzat said:


> What is your front cog size? I got same SLX cranks and someone mentioned 32 is minimum...
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


sorry, just now saw this. No back pedaling issues and that is a 30t with no issues. I not dropped the chain once and I have tried.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

RRRoubaix said:


> Man, now I'm getting nervous- I bought the One Up 42t ring (w/ 16t cog) for an upcoming build. I already have new XTR shifter and rear der.
> It sounds like the 42t is a bit more finicky w/ the Shimano setups than the SRAM. Thinking maybe I should return it for a 40t.
> I have a Wolftooth 30t for the front, although I may change cranks to Race Face or E*13 (currently XTR M970 triple).
> It's gonna be awhile before I do the build, so plenty of time to get the right combo- and for me to second- and third-guess myself.


Maybe not. The reverse was true for me and several of my riding pals. Shimano works great. It depends try both!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## bluesrider (Jun 16, 2010)

*My 1x10 set-up[/B

Intense Carbine 275 medium
Sram XO crank with North Shore billet spider
Wolf Tooth 32T chainring
One Up 40T Cog with Sram cassette
XTR plus der. med cage
Might add a MRP Amg guide

Two rides on new set up and I like it so far. The simplicity of a single chainring is clean looking and absolutely silent through the rough stuff, not one single ping of sound. I have purposely taken the rougher lines trying to drop the chain or hear any chain noise and it runs so quiet. As for shifting through the gears, it couldn't be much better. I think the 40T helps to keep the shifting smoother than the 42T. I still have about a full turn on B screw before bottoming out. The range from 19t to 11t is very smooth with the 16t in there. I have no skipping or any other issue. My chainline seems to be fine, in 5th cog (middle of cassette) chain lines up straight with front chainring.*


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## Djg24 (Jul 7, 2011)

I have to agree on the 40t being easier, I have the 40t with the 16t one up and it shifts like it is a factory setup. Smooth through every gear. I believe that the 40t leaves better b tension and is easier to get dialed in. I am running a shimano XT rear D and my buddy has a sram XO. Both seem to run great with the 40t


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## kuuk (May 26, 2008)

I have the 42t on one of my bikes and 40t on the other and shifting with the 40t set up is much better. The bike with the 40t is a hardtail and I'm really liking the setup with the Shimano Zee RD.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

kuuk said:


> I have the 42t on one of my bikes and 40t on the other and shifting with the 40t set up is much better. The bike with the 40t is a hardtail and I'm really liking the setup with the Shimano Zee RD.


You know, thats funny I have WT 42 GCs on 2 bikes, one with an XT clutch mid-cage and the other, a hardtail with a short-cage Zee.... both have new XT chains and casettes....the Zee shifts much much better. So I think maybe the Zee could be what you're feeling more than the 2t difference.


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

Are folks using a clutch rear drlr for the chain retention abilities or does a clutch rear drlr help with the CG?

Is there a difference between using a 30, 32 or 34 tooth front nw chainring in so far as shifting out back with these GC's?

Does the Race Face 30-32 tooth NW chainring have a built-in "spacer" in the design so as to avoid chain and spider contact on those XT and SLX cranks with this issue?

I am looking at trying a 40T GC with a 32 or 34 tooth NW chainring. I will start with my stock regular XT medium or (long?) cage rear drlr.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I know the 30t has a built in spacer, unsure on the 32. But u can always grab some spacers if you need them and the 32t doesn't have them built in.

Sent from my Nokia Stupidphone using Tapatalk


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

Are folks using a clutch rear drlr for the chain retention abilities or does a clutch rear drlr help with the CG? (yes, for chain retention)

Is there a difference between using a 30, 32 or 34 tooth front nw chainring in so far as shifting out back with these GC's? (it should not affect shifting, some people feel there is a sweet spot on full suspension bikes, for the squat of the bike when pedaling or something like that. and going to small negativily effects that, not a full suspension guy, sorry)

Does the Race Face 30-32 tooth NW chainring have a built-in "spacer" in the design so as to avoid chain and spider contact on those XT and SLX cranks with this issue?(i believe the 30 has a built in spacer and 32 is big enough its not needed)

I am looking at trying a 40T GC with a 32 or 34 tooth NW chainring. I will start with my stock regular XT medium or (long?) cage rear drlr.( with single front ring, medium with a GC is what you want)


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

FWIW - I'm running a WT ring and 42t with an XT RD and cassette. I added the OneUp 16t cog and the shifting is terrible! It was working well before the 16t addition. As I am, admittedly, not an expert mechanic, I dropped the bike by with my regular mechanic and his assessment was, "Think it is the cog. I checked the cassette install and the adjustment. All good except for that one cog. It was sluggish both up and down on a test ride. Not much I can do for that."

Arg!


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

trumpus said:


> FWIW - I'm running a WT ring and 42t with an XT RD and cassette. I added the OneUp 16t cog and the shifting is terrible! It was working well before the 16t addition. As I am, admittedly, not an expert mechanic, I dropped the bike by with my regular mechanic and his assessment was, "Think it is the cog. I checked the cassette install and the adjustment. All good except for that one cog. It was sluggish both up and down on a test ride. Not much I can do for that."
> 
> Arg!


That is disappointing. I was just about to order the 16t.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

cptjack said:


> Received my gc and much to my dismay it was a 42 tooth instead of a 40. Sent terse email and received reply: sorry, we will send you out a new one right away and send the other one back at your leisure. Now that's customer service. 40 tooth work perfect wit no degradation in shifting. THe only downer is that I can't pedal backwards in that big ring. Overall I am pleased


Try readjusting your b tension screw until that goes away. My chain did that initially also when I back pedaled but never does now. I've used mine for months now. I also found the tension on my rear axle had to be very snug or I had shifting and back pedaling problems. I know it sounds wierd but mine is getting better with age.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

trumpus said:


> FWIW - I'm running a WT ring and 42t with an XT RD and cassette. I added the OneUp 16t cog and the shifting is terrible! It was working well before the 16t addition. As I am, admittedly, not an expert mechanic, I dropped the bike by with my regular mechanic and his assessment was, "Think it is the cog. I checked the cassette install and the adjustment. All good except for that one cog. It was sluggish both up and down on a test ride. Not much I can do for that."
> 
> Arg!


You followed the instructions on the 16t cog alignment right? It's different depending on if you have a sram or shimano cassette


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

pwu_1 said:


> You followed the instructions on the 16t cog alignment right? It's different depending on if you have a sram or shimano cassette


Indeed. Then I checked again after the first ride. Then my mechanic checked.


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## cptjack (Jan 14, 2004)

winsail said:


> Try readjusting your b tension screw until that goes away. My chain did that initially also when I back pedaled but never does now. I've used mine for months now. I also found the tension on my rear axle had to be very snug or I had shifting and back pedaling problems. I know it sounds wierd but mine is getting better with age.


I took out the spacer on the right side of my bottom bracket- now it is running much better. Thanks for the advice though


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## Djg24 (Jul 7, 2011)

My buddy mentioned that he scuffed up his 16t a bit with some sandpaper. He said it was so smooth that it wasn't shifting. He also said that it got better as it wore in a bit as well. I can't say if it works for sure because mine didn't require anything. It shifted great right from the beginning.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I have something that everybody should be using when setting up their drive train. This has made a huge difference when shifting, not cheep but well worth it!! 

Shimano new Dura Ace BC-9000 cable set, trust me you will be blown away how smooth and easy it shifts with this cable set. It uses a new Polymer coating with many many small rings that go around the cable. Almost like ball bearings, it will not scratch off or ball up inside the housing. It's very slick, also the the many rings trap the lubricant so shifting is 40% better than any cable your using now. Well worth the 25-30 bucks.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

I wasn't too impressed with 16t one up cog shifting performance either. I found a 16t shimano 9 speed xt cog. I had to ground down 1 tab to align the shift gate but even then it doesn't line up perfectly. So far I've only had 1 ride on it and I really don't use the 16t(I think I used it only once during the ride) but it seems to shift ok.


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

the one up 16t does not match my xt cassette, in the stand it seemed to shift a little poorly, also could tell slight difference in the shift on my first ride. I do not notice it all now, have totally forgot about it, all is well. perhaps there is a break in period.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

ok heres something I had to LMAO at. 

Got an email from arts today, one of the things was a new e-thirten 40/42t cogs... $70

SO naturally my curiousity peaked, hey they even offer in blue, hmm... (though prefer to probably support WT for this)

40t says use with shimano 34t max cassette....WTF!!!! shift ramps are set for 34 alignment because something with sram......

Gotta call stupidity on that one. Most run 11-36, a 40t makes more sense and as well known now, 40t shifts better than 42. Was a possibility for options, but IMO Ill pay the extra 30 for something that more common sense (and made in the USA) was put into.


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## kuuk (May 26, 2008)

Been using a 42gc for a couple months on a shimano 11-36 cassette and just swapped the stock 15t to the one up 16t and like some have said it probably shifts worse going from 16 to 19 than the stock 15 to 19. I'm going to keep running it, but so far not stoked.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

i think i have tried every combo possible for the mid cassette issue. 
1. drop the 11/13 for the 12 - shifting was good, but range wasn't there. my legs are back so i might run this again as i will be jumping back to a 32 from 28 ring
2. one up 16 - had to clock it between sr & sh. had issue with chain jumping under heavy load on this gear only, weird.
3. shimano 9spd 16t - shifted better than one up, but not that acceptable
4. removed 17 - 15 to 19 was horrible
5. removed 15 - 13 to 17 is very good & is what i'm rocking and very happy.

slx cassette(not new-used a checker), kmc chain(new), zee rd, wt 28 & rf 32 rings(both new), 40 t-rex


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

fishwrinkle said:


> i think i have tried every combo possible for the mid cassette issue.
> 1. drop the 11/13 for the 12 - shifting was good, but range wasn't there. my legs are back so i might run this again as i will be jumping back to a 32 from 28 ring
> 2. one up 16 - had to clock it between sr & sh. had issue with chain jumping under heavy load on this gear only, weird.
> 3. shimano 9spd 16t - shifted better than one up, but not that acceptable
> ...


I was thinking that option could work. Remove the 15 instead of the 17. The only concern there is the differences in cadence. I think greater tooth differences may be better in the smaller cogs when the drlr is b-screwed to make the GC.

Instead of 11-13-17 I wonder if an 11-14-17 would be workable? Is there a 14 tooth cog out there that would work? I also wonder about removing the 17 and 19 and using an 18 tooth for 11-13-15-18-21...basically like the Free Ranger Cassette gearing.

Is there a list of drlr's that are 42 GC friendly or "friendlier?". To be clear, I'm talking about drlr's that once setup to use the GC properly, also shift well in the lower cogs. I have a 2013 XT and I'm not sure if it's medium or long cage. Doubt it's clutch but you never know. My rear drlr is a XT as spec'd on 2013 Giant AX1 29.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

morkys said:


> Is there a list of drlr's that are 42 GC friendly or "friendlier?". To be clear, I'm talking about drlr's that once setup to use the GC properly, also shift well in the lower cogs. I have a 2013 XT and I'm not sure if it's medium or long cage. Doubt it's clutch but you never know. My rear drlr is a XT as spec'd on 2013 Giant AX1 29.


There's no list. As I'm sure you have surmised if you have read this thread up till now or even the last few pages it is very much trial and error. Try what you have and be prepared to try something else if what you have doesn't work well enough for you.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

morkys said:


> Instead of 11-13-17 I wonder if an 11-14-17 would be workable? Is there a 14 tooth cog out there that would work? I also wonder about removing the 17 and 19 and using an 18 tooth for 11-13-15-18-21...basically like the Free Ranger Cassette gearing.
> 
> Is there a list of drlr's that are 42 GC friendly or "friendlier?". To be clear, I'm talking about drlr's that once setup to use the GC properly, also shift well in the lower cogs. I have a 2013 XT and I'm not sure if it's medium or long cage. Doubt it's clutch but you never know. My rear drlr is a XT as spec'd on 2013 Giant AX1 29.


The 18 tooth makes for a good set of ratios - I've now replaced the 15,17,19 & 21 in an SLX cassette with 15,18,21 from an 8 speed 11-32 cassette. There was a reason for putting in the 15 and 21 - they are both matched to shift 3 teeth difference to the 18, whereas the SLX 15 & 21 are set for 2 teeth difference. The 21t shift points line up with the SLX 24 nicely, the 13 & 15 don't line up but it doesn't seem to matter - anyway I'm happy as I have a 11-40 tooth cassette with nice ratios that all works.

As for which mechs work best - I think one aspect is the exact hanger dimensions and position - my previous frame struggled with 36t whereas this one is fine with 40t with same mech.


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

geraldooka said:


> There's no list. As I'm sure you have surmised if you have read this thread up till now or even the last few pages it is very much trial and error. Try what you have and be prepared to try something else if what you have doesn't work well enough for you.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


Understood. I thought some drlr's worked "better" than others on average, such as SRAM drlr's. I'll try what I have though, my XT. Trying to decide on whether to go with a 40 or 42.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

morkys said:


> Understood. I thought some drlr's worked "better" than others on average, such as SRAM drlr's. I'll try what I have though, my XT. Trying to decide on whether to go with a 40 or 42.


Folks have run anything from a Zee short cage (which isn't supposed to work) to a X9 long cage (which comes highly recommended but for example didn't work on my bike). It seems there are many factors involved. I suspect however that a 40t would be less susceptible to setup issues than a 42t.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## broccoli rob (Jul 3, 2012)

*wolftooth 40T*

Wolftooth 40t GC
xt cassette
xt clutch RD
12 token alloy lockring
Raceface 30t chainring

I decided to drop the 11t cog after trying it without the 17t and then without the 15t. I use those gears more than the 11t for the trails I ride and I just didn't like the gap from 15-19. The shifting is clean and didn't have to use a lot of b-screw adjustment. There is some compromise using these GC's but this set up is working well for me. It does fall off the 40t when back pedaled but hasn't been an issue on the trail.


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## mtbdl (Sep 19, 2008)

Instead of dropping the 11, why not just use the stock cassette with a smaller chaining?

Sent from my S3 on the way to the trailhead.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

My 40 tooth rear Twenty6 cog and my 28 front ring has been one of the best upgrades I have done to my bike. The Zee derail. is so nice. Small and tucked in out of the way. I even have a 1x11 Sram drive train sitting on my bench and don't feel the need to install it. It all works that good, I love it!!


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

mtbdl said:


> Instead of dropping the 11, why not just use the stock cassette with a smaller chaining?
> 
> Sent from my S3 on the way to the trailhead.


Again, one possible reason is to keep pedal kick back on high chain growth suspension designs to a minimum.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## vack (Jan 2, 2003)

I have about 160 ish miles on my WT 42 in a Shimano XT Shadow Plus Drive Train. I bought some longer B Screws from a local fastenal. I have to say it's pretty good. There is some drag coming down off the 42 and onto the 36 but only sometimes. The rest of the shifting is fine. Oh and I have never had the chain drop down while back pedaling....I've tried to reproduce that phenomenon and could not. 

My set up is All Shimano XT bits....32T Race Face NW, 42T GC from WT. I dropped the 11T and added a 12T Lockring. 

So I like it, did some pretty long climbing with the 32Tx42T I think for my CO trip I'll put my 30 on, just to save some lung in the elevation.

What I do not understand in some of the replies in these threads, is folks saying they don't have their legs, so they don't want to drop the 11T.....I don't understand that....isn't the 11T the hardest cog to push? But I regress...to each their own, I was just trying to clarify that to myself...maybe I had too many beers tonight to understand it.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

DTHey dont want to drop the 11t as its their top end/higher speed. And many dont have the legs to spin fast enough to make up for lacking it by only having the 13t and need the extra speed. 

People like me and you ride tighter trails that dont have enough down grade or open ground to hit the 11t, hell rarely the 13, so dropping the 11t makes sense. Thats my plan, partially so I dont have to screw with the whole 15-17-19 maybe a 16 to bridge the gap, disaster. And since my 29er no longer sees pavement (got a bike just for that use now) except brief tests around my block, Ill never use my 11.

Its needs of each rider, just some posts may have sounded confusing unless you read them a couple times.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Quick comparison between the One Up Components and Wolftooth GC 40T cog.
OneUp = 70.8 Grams







Wolftooth = 84.7 Grams







Side by Side








I have 2 rides on the One Up and just got the wolftooth today so no real rides yet. Originally, I picked the One Up because I wanted the 16T cog. However, I wasn't too impressed with the performance of the 16T cog so I ended up buying some 9speed Shimano XT 16T cog for cheap. I decided that I liked the 40T enough to get another one for my other bike and decided to go with Wolftooth this time since I liked the idea that they make different version specific to the cassette. 
On the One Up, I do notice that every once in a while, it would take half a revolution of the crank before the gear would catch and it would change gear. It doesn't happen that often but I have experienced it a few times so it definitely wasn't a fluke. I'm thinking this might be due to the OneUp being universal so I'm hoping the wolftooth won't do that. But I won't know until I get a ride in.
Otherwise both 40T cogs seem to work really well and I've decided that the pros out weigh the cons and that is why I decided to get another one for my other bike.


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## LB412 (Nov 28, 2012)

OneUp 42 with XT Der... I don't even notice the difference in shifting anymore.


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## cptjack (Jan 14, 2004)

What 12 tooth are you using and which lock ring? I wanna do the same thing.


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## LB412 (Nov 28, 2012)

Removed the 17. Removed the small plastic spacer on the B screw.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

dgw7000 said:


> My 40 tooth rear Twenty6 cog and my 28 front ring has been one of the best upgrades I have done to my bike. The Zee derail. is so nice. Small and tucked in out of the way. I even have a 1x11 Sram drive train sitting on my bench and don't feel the need to install it. It all works that good, I love it!!


...but if you have time on your hands and feeling experimental I'd love to know how well the Sram 1x11 mech+shifter work with a 10 speed 11-40 cassette. (I did hear one guy say it was fine - Sram made room for the 11th cog by removing the lockring and dishing the 42t - so spacing not that different to 10 speed. Clearly the 11th click is blocked out by the mech limit screws. If it works well, 1x11 would be a good mech to use on 11-42 10 speed without having to buy new wheel and 11 speed cassette)


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## neilether (Sep 10, 2007)

Just got mine set up:

Wolf tooth 42t cog
RaceFace N/W 30t chainring
SRAM X9 type2 derailleur, medium cage. 
112 link chain

Now for the observations. I found it very easy to set this thing up. I only added a couple of turns to the b-tension screw and am not even close to bottoming it out. Maybe some people are excessively adjusting that b-tension screw. I just turned it a bit at a time until it quieted down. No need to go overboard. It shifts well across the entire range of gears. 

I will say that the system is sensitive to chain length. Initially my chain was too short and it wouldn't shift up to the 42t. Adding a couple of links helped tremendously. I actually had it too long and then the chain rubbed on itself. Take out one an additional link and voila! 

On a side note, I learned that my conception of how they count chain length was off. Every little segment is counted as a link. I erroneously thought that 2 segments make up a link. Live and learn I guess.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Thing with the Shimano b tension screw is that its already pretty far in with the 36T. A few turns...and you're already at the plastic shim. There is a reason why Shimano put the shim there...the RD just does not work well turned past that shim.

The other thing I didn't like about turning the Shimano b tension that far in...is the end of the screw is halfway off the stopper. I'm pretty sure thats another reason the plastic shim is there. The SRAM screw is 100% on the stopper.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I would never do that!! No need to, my shifting is close to perfect with my XTR shifter and Shimano 2014 Dura Ace Polymer coating 9000 cable. Sram 11 speed designed for xx1/x01 only.


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## eyco (Jun 6, 2010)

I have Oneup 40T on a hg-61 cassette(9spd) and ZEE Derailleur. works great and very smooth.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

RS VR6 said:


> Thing with the Shimano b tension screw is that its already pretty far in with the 36T. A few turns...and you're already at the plastic shim. There is a reason why Shimano put the shim there...the RD just does not work well turned past that shim.
> 
> The other thing I didn't like about turning the Shimano b tension that far in...is the end of the screw is halfway off the stopper. I'm pretty sure thats another reason the plastic shim is there. The SRAM screw is 100% on the stopper.


The plastic is acting like a lock nut, without it what would hold the screw in place?
Just flip the B-screw around and thread it in from the other side, that's what I did.


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## Merlin_57 (Apr 5, 2014)

*OneUp 42/16 with Raceface 30 tooth installed*

Using an X9 DER and needed just a few turns of the b tension. Shifts perfect... glad I did the conversion as it really simplifies the bike.


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## Unforgiving (Sep 26, 2012)

just curious , i recieved my WT 40T GC today went to slot it all up onto a new hopepro2 hub with a xt cassette , i planned on removing the 11T and just running with the 13t as my bottom gear , but alas theres no room left on the freehub body for the 13t ?? How are people running with just the 11T removed and a 12t lockring ,i was suprised it wouldnt fit , do i need something else ?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Unforgiving said:


> just curious , i received my WT 40T GC today went to slot it all up onto a new hopepro2 hub with a xt cassette , i planned on removing the 11T and just running with the 13t as my bottom gear , but alas theres no room left on the freehub body for the 13t ?? How are people running with just the 11T removed and a 12t lockring ,i was surprised it wouldn't fit , do i need something else ?


You're doing something wrong. I had the 42t, XT cassette with the 11t removed and the Token 12t ring, worked just fine.


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

Any Canadians order the OneUp or Wolf Tooth? Shipping? What were your total costs? I am looking to the OneUP.

Out of curiosity, can the Wolf tooth be used with the slx cassette if you take it apart like you do if you use the OneUP?


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## Aszors (Dec 11, 2013)

morkys said:


> Any Canadians order the OneUp or Wolf Tooth? Shipping? What were your total costs? I am looking to the OneUP.
> 
> Out of curiosity, can the Wolf tooth be used with the slx cassette if you take it apart like you do if you use the OneUP?


One up is out of Delta BC, free shipping! Can't speak for WT tho


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## Unforgiving (Sep 26, 2012)

TwoTone said:


> You're doing something wrong. I had the 42t, XT cassette with the 11t removed and the Token 12t ring, worked just fine.


What I mean is there is no room for the 13t to slide down the splines of the freehub,
Is it just supposed to get samwiched between the lockring and the 15t? It just spins
Untill I torque the lockring that cannot be right ?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Unforgiving said:


> What I mean is there is no room for the 13t to slide down the splines of the freehub,
> Is it just supposed to get samwiched between the lockring and the 15t? It just spins
> Untill I torque the lockring that cannot be right ?


Again, something is wrong, are you sure you got the Shimano cog? - not sure if the standoffs on the cog are different or not. I literally pulled the cassette off, while holding it all together, slide the 42t on and then put the cassette back on, left off the 11t and screwed the 12t lockring on.
There was plenty of room for the 13t to grab on.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

TwoTone said:


> The plastic is acting like a lock nut, without it what would hold the screw in place?
> Just flip the B-screw around and thread it in from the other side, that's what I did.


Thats what I did also...I reversed the screw so that the soft edge of the screw head rests on the stop.

The screw stays in fine without that plastic stopper. IMO...its there to keep you from cranking the b-tension in too far.

It was the soft shifting of the XT that made me switch over to a SRAM Type 2.

Here is a pic of the screw on the stop...adjusted for the 42T. I suggest reversing the screw.


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

Ordered the OneUP 40T black w 16T cog. Race Face NW 34 is on order at my local shop, Northern Cycle in Ajax. Hopefully I get it all before the holiday weekend. Only decisions left are, do I take apart my SLX cassette, or pick up an XT specifically for this mod. I will probably crack open the SLX cassette unless it's a bad idea. Other than that, just need to figure out chain length and front chainring spacers. My stock 38T chainring and rear 36T cog didn't complain when I ran big/big, so we'll see.


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## Unforgiving (Sep 26, 2012)

TwoTone said:


> Again, something is wrong, are you sure you got the Shimano cog? - not sure if the standoffs on the cog are different or not. I literally pulled the cassette off, while holding it all together, slide the 42t on and then put the cassette back on, left off the 11t and screwed the 12t lockring on.
> There was plenty of room for the 13t to grab on.























thats how much room i have with out the 13t on


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## Unforgiving (Sep 26, 2012)

its a shimano cog on a XT cassette on a hopepro2 freehub , once i put the 13t on and hold it lined up with my hand i could possible crank it down enought so it grabs possible 2mm of freehub but thats it , its like the hub body is to short but it fits the stock xt cassette just fine 

Has anybody else seen this when installing the CG and just removing the 11T ?


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## Billinsd (May 10, 2012)

*Downshifts from 42T to 36T when backpedaling*

Mine set up really easily and seemed pretty easy to dial in, but I'm not an expert

There seems like a pretty big jump back and forth between the 42T and 36T, but it shifts well. I tried back pedaling in 11T and it was fine. I tried back pedaling in 42T and it downshifted to 36T? I'm not sure if the drivetraine did this before I put in the 42T or not.

How does my setup look? And what could I try to do to keep it from down shifting from 42T to 36T when back pedaling?

Life is good!! 
Bill


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Unforgiving said:


> its a shimano cog on a XT cassette on a hopepro2 freehub , once i put the 13t on and hold it lined up with my hand i could possible crank it down enought so it grabs possible 2mm of freehub but thats it , its like the hub body is to short but it fits the stock xt cassette just fine
> 
> Has anybody else seen this when installing the CG and just removing the 11T ?


Maybe it's something specific to the Hope Hubs, mine was XT but on a DT Swiss 350 hub.


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## rontarson (Apr 22, 2007)

Unforgiving said:


> its a shimano cog on a XT cassette on a hopepro2 freehub , once i put the 13t on and hold it lined up with my hand i could possible crank it down enought so it grabs possible 2mm of freehub but thats it , its like the hub body is to short but it fits the stock xt cassette just fine
> 
> Has anybody else seen this when installing the CG and just removing the 11T ?


I am running all SRAM, but also removed the 11t and installed with a 12t lockring. The free hub space was tight but was able to lock it down and have had no trouble after 5+ hours of riding. I agree there was less room to place the 13t than I am used to.


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## rontarson (Apr 22, 2007)

Billinsd said:


> Mine set up really easily and seemed pretty easy to dial in, but I'm not an expert
> 
> There seems like a pretty big jump back and forth between the 42T and 36T, but it shifts well. I tried back pedaling in 11T and it was fine. I tried back pedaling in 42T and it downshifted to 36T? I'm not sure if the drivetraine did this before I put in the 42T or not.
> 
> ...


You adjust your chain line at all to correct for backpedal? I moved one spacer from drive-side to non and that cleared my issue. Also, your RD looks almost maxed. You check for suspension travel on the chain length? Maybe its a long cage and just looks maxed compared to my mid cage X9.


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## Billinsd (May 10, 2012)

rontarson said:


> You adjust your chain line at all to correct for backpedal? I moved one spacer from drive-side to non and that cleared my issue. Also, your RD looks almost maxed. You check for suspension travel on the chain length? Maybe its a long cage and just looks maxed compared to my mid cage X9.


No, I have not adjusted chain line. Do you mean you took a spacer from between the 36T and 32T and added it to between the 36T and 42T? If so what if there is only one spacer between the 36T and 32T? My RD is almost maxed, it's got another half or 1 inch more to go before it's maxed. No, I did not check for suspension travel. Thanks Bill


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## rontarson (Apr 22, 2007)

Billinsd said:


> No, I have not adjusted chain line. Do you mean you took a spacer from between the 36T and 32T and added it to between the 36T and 42T? If so what if there is only one spacer between the 36T and 32T? My RD is almost maxed, it's got another half or 1 inch more to go before it's maxed. No, I did not check for suspension travel. Thanks Bill


No, meant spacers on the bottom bracket. I moved a spacer from the drive side of crankset to non-drive side. I should also note I am running a 30T ring.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

Billinsd said:


> Mine set up really easily and seemed pretty easy to dial in, but I'm not an expert
> 
> There seems like a pretty big jump back and forth between the 42T and 36T, but it shifts well. I tried back pedaling in 11T and it was fine. I tried back pedaling in 42T and it downshifted to 36T? I'm not sure if the drivetraine did this before I put in the 42T or not.
> 
> ...


I think your chain is too short, judging by your RD cage angle. Your chain falling down off the 42 is because your chain line is off. Your front chain ring should line up with center of your cassette. I figured using the middle ring of my 3x as a 1x would put me right on but it was off 5mm. Good luck.


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## Billinsd (May 10, 2012)

I just added a couple more chain links. I was maxed out under full compression. I still back pedal from 42T to 36T, however, it takes several revolutions. Bill


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## Billinsd (May 10, 2012)

rontarson said:


> No, meant spacers on the bottom bracket. I moved a spacer from the drive side of crankset to non-drive side. I should also note I am running a 30T ring.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks!


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## broccoli rob (Jul 3, 2012)

Unforgiving said:


> its a shimano cog on a XT cassette on a hopepro2 freehub , once i put the 13t on and hold it lined up with my hand i could possible crank it down enought so it grabs possible 2mm of freehub but thats it , its like the hub body is to short but it fits the stock xt cassette just fine
> 
> Has anybody else seen this when installing the CG and just removing the 11T ?


I had this problem too. I have xt on dt swiss 350 hub and wolftooth 40t GC. I got it on there but it barely fit. When I took it off to check it , I noticed a small chunk off one of the splines.It wasn't very secure. Being that the 13t is not a first position cog, it won't sink down under the 15t to grab the splines. If you put the 13t next to the 11t you will see. I think there is a 13t first cog available, which is what I am lookin to get. Also absolut black just came out with a 13t lockring but don't know much about it. The only way it fit proper for me was by removing 17t and spacer. I would like to get this to work because I liked the set up without the 11t. Hope this helps


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## Rhialto (Oct 21, 2009)

Unforgiving said:


> its a shimano cog on a XT cassette on a hopepro2 freehub , once i put the 13t on and hold it lined up with my hand i could possible crank it down enought so it grabs possible 2mm of freehub but thats it , its like the hub body is to short but it fits the stock xt cassette just fine
> 
> Has anybody else seen this when installing the CG and just removing the 11T ?


I have a Pro 2 Evo and I have removed the 11 tooth cog and have no spacing issues with the 13t cog. The difference is that I used a Hope 40 tooth T-Rex cog as opposed to a WT cog. From your photos, it looks like the inter-cog spacing is uniform but perhaps the WT cog stands out a bit further than the Hope cog, pushing the whole cassette more to the outside?


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## Unforgiving (Sep 26, 2012)

Yes that could be that its dished slightly more not sure


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## Unforgiving (Sep 26, 2012)

if i was to do the removing the 17t and 15t and replacing with a 16t shimano cog wich shimano cassette would i be needing to buy to rob that said gear ? any particular one that has proved to have a cog that lines up ?


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

Unforgiving said:


> if i was to do the removing the 17t and 15t and replacing with a 16t shimano cog wich shimano cassette would i be needing to buy to rob that said gear ? any particular one that has proved to have a cog that lines up ?


*I installed a 16 tooth off an old shimano 8 speed Hg70 cassette on my sram 1050 cassette and its working flawlessly filed the big space and clocked to the sram ramps. working great! no hesitation whatsoever put about 100 miles on it now still perfect..*:thumbsup:


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## Unforgiving (Sep 26, 2012)

wonder if i could just rob the 16t off this Shimano HG50 Deore 9 Speed Cassette > Components > Drivetrain > Cassettes | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

Honestly, just finished my first mountain bike race of the season and not once did any shift give a problem. One up 42t and their 16t were great. I admit the machined shift gates dont line up and at first shifting on the 16t was a little off both on stand and on ride. Can't say why but before the first ride was over, all was fine. Break in period i guess. Ymmv, but i have no complaints at all.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

unforgiving, why don't you order a 12t xt cog for a 9 spd cassette? win, win if you ask me. i used it on a slx cassette with no probs except for the fact i still wanted one less tooth.


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## Unforgiving (Sep 26, 2012)

Its a 10speed drive train , just trying to smooth the shifting from 15 to 19 by replacing the 15 with a 16t
. By removing the 17t seems to be the only way I can get everything to fit on the freehub , I would like to just dump the 11t but then the 13t has nothing to grab ,


Would a 12t 1st position cog change that in stead if the 13t and allow it all to fit ?
Confused heh


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

jspyderr said:


> Honestly, just finished my first mountain bike race of the season and not once did any shift give a problem. One up 42t and their 16t were great. I admit the machined shift gates dont line up and at first shifting on the 16t was a little off both on stand and on ride. Can't say why but before the first ride was over, all was fine. Break in period i guess. Ymmv, but i have no complaints at all.


By my 4th ride my oneup 16 tooth was worthless skipping anytime I got out of the saddle on a hard climb. Put a shimano 16 tooth on and no skipping and shifts better..


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## broccoli rob (Jul 3, 2012)

Unforgiving said:


> Its a 10speed drive train , just trying to smooth the shifting from 15 to 19 by replacing the 15 with a 16t
> . By removing the 17t seems to be the only way I can get everything to fit on the freehub , I would like to just dump the 11t but then the 13t has nothing to grab ,
> 
> Would a 12t 1st position cog change that in stead if the 13t and allow it all to fit ?
> Confused heh


Miche Shimano 13t First Position Cog, 10 speed
This may work for you. If you can drop the 15t and fit everything else on then you should be able to use this to replace your current 11t and 13t. Good luck.


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

Personally, I am going to try what arclarke did:



> ...using an 11-32 cassette (HG51), hacked apart and using the 15-18-21 in place of the SLX 15-17-19-21 (using the SLX spacers)


I don't want to lose the 11 tooth, it decreases range, so why not just use a smaller chainring if you want to do that? (unless you have a long travel bike and chain length issues?).

If you go with the above option, you've got 11-13-15-18-21-24 etc etc for better gaps/ratios. The tooth gaps are then 2,2,3,3,3... I will be trying the above. Eliminating the 15 or 17 leaves you with a 4 tooth gap. Using the 16 tooth causes the gaps to be uneven. 2,3,3,2,3....etc. Using a 16 tooth may work, but I don't think the gaps make as much sense as using the 18,21,24 in place of the 17,19,21,24.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Hmmmm- 42 pages so far. Hoping y'all can help me out.

My plan is to buy the OneUP 42t/16 combo pack (I want the 11t on the bottom end of the range). I will match this with a 30t WTC NW front ring (would buy the WT 42t cog, but want the 16t to get a more even spread across the cassette).

Cassette is an XT 11-36

Hope ProII hub.

XO Rear Der.

Sounds like maybe I'll need a couple of extra links or new chain.

Anything else I should be thinking about? Problems with this set up?


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

alshead said:


> Hmmmm- 42 pages so far. Hoping y'all can help me out.
> 
> My plan is to buy the OneUP 42t/16 combo pack (I want the 11t on the bottom end of the range). I will match this with a 30t WTC NW front ring (would buy the WT 42t cog, but want the 16t to get a more even spread across the cassette).
> 
> ...


What was (is) your largest front chainring before doing this mod?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

^currently 2x10 with a 22/36 up front.

I already have a WTC 30t NW on my SS and was planning to get a 32t from them just to have the options to swap if needed. I'm not convinced I'm going to love the 1x setup (fearful of spinning out on fast, long descents/ roads in the high country), but want to give it a shot. I think what you're getting at is that I probably won't need a new chain...


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

alshead said:


> ^currently 2x10 with a 22/36 up front.
> 
> I already have a WTC 30t NW on my SS and was planning to get a 32t from them just to have the options to swap if needed. I'm not convinced I'm going to love the 1x setup (fearful of spinning out on fast, long descents/ roads in the high country), but want to give it a shot. I think what you're getting at is that I probably won't need a new chain...


*You will spinout on those fireroads for sure,, I spinout at around 22mph with a 34 chainring and 11 cog on a 26" where my spinout used to be around 26 with a 38 ring,, but you know what I wouldnt change a thing, staying with 1X for-sure:thumbsup: *


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

alshead said:


> ^currently 2x10 with a 22/36 up front.
> 
> I already have a WTC 30t NW on my SS and was planning to get a 32t from them just to have the options to swap if needed. I'm not convinced I'm going to love the 1x setup (fearful of spinning out on fast, long descents/ roads in the high country), but want to give it a shot. I think what you're getting at is that I probably won't need a new chain...


Possibly not. For instance...I am going from a 38 to a 34 in front (-4 teeth) to a 40T cog up from a 36 (+4 teeth)...so I am guessing since I stay at 74 teeth total, I won't need to change my chain length. Unless I'm missing something in the equation....?

In your situation, it may be different.


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## larsbaby (Apr 11, 2005)

geraldooka said:


> Zee for sure. He removed the 15t. The non direct mount Shimanos I've seen seem to work really well regardless of cage length. Your wise to be wary it may not work on your bike the same way! If you had the same hubs, and generation Nomad I'd be confident saying it would work just fine. Annoying isn't it?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


I hear exactly what you're saying, I guess in this case, annoying is part of the fun 

I'm still running a 2x9 (36/22 & 11x34) and am thinking my next move for the meantime will be to put a 30T NW chainring in front and move to a 10 speed 11-36 in the back... There'll be some reduction in the low end and some definite reduction in the high end which I'm fine with because a) I don't get to use the small ring-granny combo so much as I would rather walk if I need that low a gear and b) I never really use the higher range on trails, anyway...

Have two things running through my mind right now... 
1) I keep having this strange feeling that if I plop down the cash right now for a 40/42t ring and Shimano will release something that works flawlessly in a few months (and I'm not in a rush...)
2) I've got a slight worry that my bike (Santa Cruz Blur LT2) may not pedal as well with the reduction to the 30T.

Thoughts?


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## larsbaby (Apr 11, 2005)

fishwrinkle said:


> zee here, & it shifts great to and fro on a hope cog on a nimble 9. b tension until upper jockey and 40 cog teeth are about 2-3mm apart so you can get enough wrap when on the eleven. on a side note i just came from a hack where i dropped the 11 and 13 for a 12. i got the one up today so i threw that in to gain back the 11/13. after saying i never run 11 that much, i guess i under estimated myself a lil because i wanted that 11 several times last wkend. the one up is mated to a slx cassette and found that it shifted best when clocked between sh/sr. i also have a shim 16t on its way so i'll report that later.


Thanks so much for the response, nice to know that that option is still on the table. Interesting details especially with regards to the 11t. Interested to hear your thoughts on the 16t as well


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

larsbaby said:


> I hear exactly what you're saying, I guess in this case, annoying is part of the fun
> 
> I'm still running a 2x9 (36/22 & 11x34) and am thinking my next move for the meantime will be to put a 30T NW chainring in front and move to a 10 speed 11-36 in the back... There'll be some reduction in the low end and some definite reduction in the high end which I'm fine with because a) I don't get to use the small ring-granny combo so much as I would rather walk if I need that low a gear and b) I never really use the higher range on trails, anyway...
> 
> ...


30t is not so bad. You'll get maybe 6deg or 10mm (at the pedal) of extra kick back in the worst combo. I suspect you'll hardly notice it.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

Received my 40T + 16T OneUP cogs at home and my raceface NW 34T arrived at Northern Cycle today too. Yay. Just in time for Holiday weekend. I have some 18,21 and 24T cogs on other cassettes to play with, so I'll see what I can come up with. Project for the weekend


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## jeRdrgz (Mar 9, 2013)

Hello I have one question 
I ordered the wrong WT cog. I ordered the Sram one having a Shimano Hub. Can i place it anyway, o have to order a Shimano one? 

Thank you


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## Orr (Feb 11, 2013)

My experience:

Wolftooth 42T
Rear derailleur XT 786 , B-tension all the way in 
XT shifter 
XTR 11-36T cassette 
took the 17T out 
XTR chain 
XO1 crank with 32T 
bike - S-Works Epic wc

first ride of 100Km works great
the Jump from 15 - to 19 is pretty big so probably will put the 16T cog


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## Makoto (Sep 10, 2007)

jeRdrgz said:


> Hello I have one question
> I ordered the wrong WT cog. I ordered the Sram one having a Shimano Hub. Can i place it anyway, o have to order a Shimano one?
> 
> Thank you


The GC's are cassette specific, not hub specific.


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

So far on the stand and around the block it's looking good. Slightly delayed up-shifting (to taller/smaller cogs) and the 18 tooth I inserted hesitates occasionally, but generally this works ok at this point. Chainline doesn't seem bad to me. Backpedalling on the stand causes no grief. For extra ease of converting I installed a new 10 spd slx chain and my original was stretched a bit. Installed the 40T OneUP on the rear with my SLX cassette and I popped an 18 tooth sun race (lol) 8 spd cog in there. I tried an 18 tooth 8 spd shimano I had lying around, but I couldn't get the lockring to get threads. Also installed my race face 34T narrow wide and ditched the frnt drlr cable and shifter. No turning back now. So far so good. I am going for a test ride off road now. Report to follow.

Giant AX29 1X conversion. Cockpit and up close of drivetrain.


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

Test ride complete. Everything shifted good and the chain never came off on the rough downhills. I like the ratio's of the 11-40 I created with the help of arclarke's suggestion. 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32-36-40. No bigger gaps in the lower cogs and a progressive increase in tooth gaps (2,2,3,3,3,4,4,4,4). The shifting is a little different, perhaps a slight delay when shifting into the taller cogs, but it's so minimal it's a non issue and I didn't notice it on the trail. Successful 1X conversion. Thanks to everybody here for their feedback, suggestions and advice.

P.S. Everything works fine, but, I wonder if I should throw in 1 more link on my chain. The drlr is maxed in 34-40. Anybody?


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## leverick (Jul 3, 2006)

30 Race Face up front 42 WT in back, XTR cassette and derailluer with extended screw. Working like a champ so far. The 19t-15 drop is a bit cumbersome, trying to line up a 16t replacement for the 15t. Ive put a couple hundred miles of fairly hard effort on this setup so far and its flawless.


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## tturkstra (Mar 22, 2012)

morkys said:


> Test ride complete. Everything shifted good and the chain never came off on the rough downhills. I like the ratio's of the 11-40 I created with the help of arclarke's suggestion. 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32-36-40. No bigger gaps in the lower cogs and a progressive increase in tooth gaps (2,2,3,3,3,4,4,4,4). The shifting is a little different, perhaps a slight delay when shifting into the taller cogs, but it's so minimal it's a non issue and I didn't notice it on the trail. Successful 1X conversion. Thanks to everybody here for their feedback, suggestions and advice.


If I understand it correctly, you swapped the 17 & 19 for an 18, changing:
11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 28, 32, 36 
11, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40
Ratios look good.

Where can I get this 18T sprocket from? 9 speed? 10 speed? Did you have to grind it to mount it rotated as some have done with shimano 16 T sprockets from Rosebikes?

It seems people have had variable results with the OneUp 16T on Shimano cassettes. Anyone else using a 16T from Rosebikes?
search item: shimano 16 tooth - Rose Bikes UK: Bikeshop Road Bikes, MTB/Mountain Bikes, Trekking and City Bikes
Thanks, Tim


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

tturkstra said:


> If I understand it correctly, you swapped the 17 & 19 for an 18, changing:
> 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 28, 32, 36
> 11, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40
> Ratios look good.
> ...


Just a note, I may add two links to my chain. I don't know why it's got the rear drlr so stretched out. The chain is the same length as stock, and I had the same # of teeth (38+36=74 and now I have 34+40=74).

*Does anybody with a 34T front chainring have a photo of your bike in your 40 or 42T rear cog? Wondering how stretched your drlr is vs mine.*

The 18 tooth cog I used is from a very old hardly used sun race 11-32 8 spd cassette. It fits perfectly, but I suspect the shifting ramps etc aren't lined up perfectly (maybe I can file down the wide keyed tab and move the cog into a better position for shifting?). For improved shifting I have to try more cogs from the sun race cassette, or try an 11-32 8 speed HG51 cassette and use those shimano cogs. As far as I can tell, you can try other shimano 18 tooth cogs, and also try the matching 15,21,24 tooth cogs etc. Research cassettes and cogs and you'll see there is a way to find the right cog with the right shifting ramps to match or as closely match your cassette as possible.

I am sure the 16 tooth OneUP will work ok too. I just wanted an even progression of gaps. If you use the 16 tooth in place of the 15 and 17, your gaps are 2,3,3,2,3,4,4,4,4 (or your last gap is 6 if you have the 42).

I got the idea of the 18 tooth in my head and saw an mtbr member on here named arclarke who actually did it, so I went ahead and looked around for 18t cogs to try. He was discussing his use of an 18t cog with regards to another giant cog mod.

new hope 40t-rex

I'd sooner try the 42T rear for a lower lowest climbing gear than go down to a 32T chainring, as I find the tallest 34-11 is as low as I'd like. I'm going to just keep riding it like this. My theory is, its low enough to make 99% of climbs doable even without being in shape, albeit slower...lol...so once I'm fit, I should be ok with it on 99.9% of the hills. The 34-40 ratio is essentially the same as the granny some of us started with in 7 speed days before the 22 granny and 30 tooth cog. 34-40 is equal to (actually a hair lower) than 24-28.


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

morkys said:


> Just a note, I may add two links to my chain. I don't know
> *Does anybody with a 34T front chainring have a photo of your bike in your 40 or 42T rear cog? Wondering how stretched your drlr is vs mine.*


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

morkys said:


> Test ride complete. Everything shifted good and the chain never came off on the rough downhills. I like the ratio's of the 11-40 I created with the help of arclarke's suggestion. 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32-36-40. No bigger gaps in the lower cogs and a progressive increase in tooth gaps (2,2,3,3,3,4,4,4,4). The shifting is a little different, perhaps a slight delay when shifting into the taller cogs, but it's so minimal it's a non issue and I didn't notice it on the trail. Successful 1X conversion. Thanks to everybody here for their feedback, suggestions and advice.
> 
> P.S. Everything works fine, but, I wonder if I should throw in 1 more link on my chain. The drlr is maxed in 34-40. Anybody?


Chain does look tight to me - I found shifting off the biggest cog improved with an extra inch of chain compared with the minimum length possible.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

tturkstra said:


> If I understand it correctly, you swapped the 17 & 19 for an 18, changing:
> 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 28, 32, 36
> 11, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40
> Ratios look good.
> ...


I tried a 9speed 18t first, filed out the slot to try different positions, but couldn't get it to shift well. Then had better luck with 8speed from a 11-32 cassette - including the 15 and 21 tooth cogs as well as 18 tooth so each cog was still shifting the same number of teeth up and down as designed, and they all worked without changing position on the freehub.


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

Rakuman said:


> morkys said:
> 
> 
> > Just a note, I may add two links to my chain. I don't know
> ...


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

*34 front ring / 42 rear*









Same chain and length as when it was factory with a 11-36 casette and 38/24 front rings.


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

pablobell said:


> View attachment 894560
> 
> 
> Same chain and length as when it was factory with a 11-36 casette and 38/24 front rings.


I think my chain was a bit on the short side then...

btw...nice colours on that Giant


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## Zaskar9r (Nov 3, 2011)

Probably sick of all these same questions popping up, but I'm about to do a 1x10 conversion on my '12 GT Sensor 9r Pro. I've ordered a 30t RaceFace NW ring and the 42/16t combo from OneUp. Current setup is...

XT Crank 38/26
XT RD (non clutch)
SLX cassette 11-36t

I'm going to try the "alternate" instructions from OneUp for the SLX cassette where you cut the pins to separate the cogs so I can remove the 15t and 17t and replace with their 16t.

I've read reviews that said with the NW chainring, a RD with clutch isn't absolutely necessary. We'll see I guess.

I would appreciate any words of wisdom, warnings, things to watch out for, etc, etc. A couple things I'm concerned about...

- will I end up needing a type 2 RD to keep from dropping chain
- chain length...will I need to shorten the chain after converting
- XT B-tension screw...will it be long enough or will I have to grab a longer one
- will separating the SLX cogs result in destroying my hub (which is the OEM one, not some fancy after market one).


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

My wife has nearly the same setup, and I'm astonished how she's finished races without having her rear der clutch turned "on." She's only dropped a chain once in very very muddy conditions.



Zaskar9r said:


> Probably sick of all these same questions popping up, but I'm about to do a 1x10 conversion on my '12 GT Sensor 9r Pro. I've ordered a 30t RaceFace NW ring and the 42/16t combo from OneUp. Current setup is...
> 
> XT Crank 38/26
> XT RD (non clutch)
> ...


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## ha-evolution (Sep 16, 2007)

Finished up my 1x10 conversion yesterday on my full suspension bike. Had a single 32 in the front and put the 42 Wolf Tooth in the back yesterday (after removing the 17) and it seems about perfect for the local single track now. Very pleased with how well it shifts.


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

Zaskar9r said:


> Probably sick of all these same questions popping up, but I'm about to do a 1x10 conversion on my '12 GT Sensor 9r Pro. I've ordered a 30t RaceFace NW ring and the 42/16t combo from OneUp. Current setup is...
> 
> XT Crank 38/26
> XT RD (non clutch)
> ...


I am using a stock XT drlr and b screw and I am near the limits, but it's fine on my setup with 11-40 and 34T front narrow wide chainring. I don't ride the roughest toughest trails, and my chain never came off on the bumpy fast downhills even though I tried to go a little faster and through bumpier terrain.

I separated my SLX cassette as instructed. You will use your hacksaw or similar to cut between the two cogs you want to remove, and you end up destroying one spacer and removing the pins. If you're careful you can avoid damaging the two cogs you cut between, but you won't use those anyway. You can always source another slx cassette spacer later if you need it, but you won't need the one you destroy now for the giant cog mod.


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## jeRdrgz (Mar 9, 2013)

I have 26/38 XT crankset 
and 11-42 now. I here is a pic of my bike
how can I know if I need to add some links to the chain? 
Its a double susp bike 
Thanks


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## LB412 (Nov 28, 2012)

If you ride AM style terrain without a clutch Der you will drop the chain.


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## Billinsd (May 10, 2012)

Billinsd said:


> Mine set up really easily and seemed pretty easy to dial in, but I'm not an expert
> 
> There seems like a pretty big jump back and forth between the 42T and 36T, but it shifts well. I tried back pedaling in 11T and it was fine. I tried back pedaling in 42T and it downshifted to 36T? I'm not sure if the drivetraine did this before I put in the 42T or not.
> 
> ...


I've got about 6 rides on mine and I've got it really dialed in. I just learned how to set up and tune my drivetrain. I got the Wolftooth 30T direct mount and this ring is closer inbound, than my outer big ring was and maybe as inbound as my small ring was. I probably would have downshifted in the granny gear while backpedaling with my old set up. Anyway, it is a non issue. The gears are perfect. I lost half a granny gear and about one high gear, which I almost never used. My only regret is not doing this sooner!!! Life is good!! 
Bill


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## Zaskar9r (Nov 3, 2011)

I decided to buy the 42t OneUp instead of the 40t after going all nerd and running my current setup and potential 1x10 setups through a gear calculator. I'm not a racer, nor am I in the greatest shape in the world, so I didn't want to lose the granny from my 2x10 setup. So far as I can tell, the 30t x 42t will be nearly the same gearing as my current 26t x 36t. Where I'll lose my gears will be on the high end. I'll basically lose my two biggest gears (38x11 and 38x13). I live in an area with a lot of climbing and gravity does a good enough job on the downhills that I don't really need to be pedaling them.

I think my biggest questions once I get all the parts and start the conversion will be whether I'll need a longer b-screw for my XT rd to reach the 42t cog, whether I'll need to upgrade the rd to a type 2 to avoid chain drop and whether I'll need to adjust my chain length for the new setup.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

jeRdrgz said:


> I have 26/38 XT crankset
> and 11-42 now. I here is a pic of my bike
> how can I know if I need to add some links to the chain?
> Its a double susp bike
> ...


It doesn't look like you need to remove any links. If your chain reaches around your biggest gear combo throughout your rear suspension travel, then that's all the chain you need.


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## Zaskar9r (Nov 3, 2011)

smilinsteve said:


> It doesn't look like you need to remove any links. If your chain reaches around your biggest gear combo throughout your rear suspension travel, then that's all the chain you need.


So is that really the best way to know for sure then? After converting from my 2x10 setup, shift into the largest (42t) cog, let all the air out of my rear shock and cycle it to it's full travel and check the chain length?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Zaskar9r said:


> So is that really the best way to know for sure then? After converting from my 2x10 setup, shift into the largest (42t) cog, let all the air out of my rear shock and cycle it to it's full travel and check the chain length?


Yep.


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## neilether (Sep 10, 2007)

NordieBoy said:


> Yep.


Double Yep.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

NordieBoy said:


> Yep.


Yep. 
And then to check to see if you have too much chain, you put the chain on your smallest gear combo and make sure your derailleur can wrap all the excess chain. Too much chain and it will sag. So you shorten it to where it can just wrap your biggest combo as mentioned above with one or 2 extra links max.


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

I needed a longer B screw with a 42 GC and a clutch XT derailleur.


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## LB412 (Nov 28, 2012)

pablobell said:


> I needed a longer B screw with a 42 GC and a clutch XT derailleur.


Just take out the tiny plastic spacer and you will be all set. I had zero problems with my XT once I made the change.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

pablobell said:


> I needed a longer B screw with a 42 GC and a clutch XT derailleur.


Flip it


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## DR.BG (Jun 20, 2013)

Having an issue with my setup. All new parts when i installed the 42T cog. X9 type 2, sram cassette, new chain, new shifter, etc. 

The setup shifts great, no issues there. But when in the larger 3 cogs, and under suspension compression, my rear derailleur gets "stuck" forward and loses chain tension. This only happened a couple of times, but i brought it into the bike shop and they thought it was a bad derailleur so had it warrantied with Sram. 

Just got a call from the shop and they said the new derailleur is doing the same thing. Their solution was to go back to a 2x10 setup because the sram x9 type 2 is not compatible with a 42t cog. 

My suggestion to them was its a chain length issue and to add a couple links to see if that improves it. They said they cant add chain length because in higher gears the derailleur cant take up the slack.

Either way im going to pick up the bike today, but any suggestions on why this is happening?

Setup is on a 2011 Niner Rip9.

Thanks for the help!


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## ha-evolution (Sep 16, 2007)

My X0 type 2 derailleur was doing the same thing before I put on the 42t. Lbs lubed/adjusted the derailleur and played with the chain length and it hasn't happened since, even after I added the 42t. This is on my Giant Anthem Adv 29er.


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## clarkrw3 (Feb 21, 2011)

Yeah I think it's a derailleur/chain issue. Lbs don't want to figure out setups like these....lame


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## Billinsd (May 10, 2012)

clarkrw3 said:


> Yeah I think it's a derailleur/chain issue. Lbs don't want to figure out setups like these....lame


Sounds like it to me too. Do you have a medium or large DR? A short type 2 DR is not compatible with a 42T. Sounds like maybe your chain is too short? Bill


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Sounds like a chain length thing to me- put it in your smallest cog out back (11t?) and see if you added a link (or two), if the derailleur would be taking up the slack (just needs to be slightly under tension/ not rubbing on the cage/ pulley wheels).


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## marciorssilva (May 23, 2014)

I have a 1x10 setup with 42T cog. All works more or less fine...i have a Shimano XT Type 2 Deraulier but cant shift from de 11T cog to the 13T...it goes always to the 15T cog. Try all type of settings but cant resolve this...some one with same problem? Thanks


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## jeRdrgz (Mar 9, 2013)

smilinsteve said:


> It doesn't look like you need to remove any links. If your chain reaches around your biggest gear combo throughout your rear suspension travel, then that's all the chain you need.


Thank you. If I'm not planning to use the the GC with my biggest ring on front, i can skip adding links, right ??

Another question how should I measure the length of the chain with all the rear shock compressed? I mean, how should it look?

edit: it takes a while to shift from 2nd to 3rd biggest gear, anyone having the same issue?


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## morkys (Jul 27, 2005)

Further feedback.

Starting point:

2013 Giant Anthem X1 - 29er. One years use. 38/24 front with 11-36 slx rear cassette and XT rear drlr.

Destroyed spacer between 17 and 19 and associated pins of 11-36 SLX cassette with hacksaw. Removed 17 and 19 and replaced with sunrace 18t from older 8 speed cassette. All SLX spacers used. OneUP 40Tooth installed with spacer behind cog against freehub end. Adjusted limit screws. Adjusted b-screw. Race Face 34 tooth NW chainring installed. New 10 speed SLX chain installed. Removed front drlr, cable and shifter.

Shifting is very good. Only slight delay shifting to taller gears/smaller cogs. Hardly noticeable and only if I think about it. All shifting otherwise good. Chain has not fallen off on faster bumpier downhills.

Feels like I am using the cassette as an 8 speed with two bail outs. Finding I am only using the 36 or 40 rear when over tired or the hill is ultra-steep. I am not in shape this season so not going on long rides with many hills (gradually increasing ride length and # of hills climbed), and I'm going slow up the longer hills. So far I am very pleased with this setup. Tallest gear is only spun out on the road. It would be nice if the upshifting to taller/smaller cogs was snappier, but it's nothing that I can't live with and almost forget. I won't be racing any time soon. Just riding 2 or 2 times a week to get in pregessively better and better shape. This setup works very well for me.


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## scootdogss (Dec 17, 2009)

Installed 40T wt with 30 wt up front. Full xt clutched setup on a sc Bronson. Left the plastic on b screw but had to max it out. Added two lengths of chain.

Road yogi in Truckee being a flat lander was stoked for the extra gear on way up. Shifting was great even under load. Did notice the jump from 15 to 19. Wt confirmed they will have 16T ready in a few weeks.

Did 2 shuttles at downieville yesterday no problems at all not much climbing but no dropped chains. Fyi everything is open and the trails are in great shape. Awesome day. Loving the wt 40T!


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

So I am wanting to use this setup on my mukluk without buying another cassette and derrailuer if possible. Has anyone done this with a sram 950 and x7 rear derailleur? If I can adjust my derailluer for now to just stay in the bigger cogs that is fine. I am hardly ever in my 11t. With either front chainring. I want to put a 30t wolf up front.


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## jspyderr (Apr 8, 2014)

marciorssilva said:


> I have a 1x10 setup with 42T cog. All works more or less fine...i have a Shimano XT Type 2 Deraulier but cant shift from de 11T cog to the 13T...it goes always to the 15T cog. Try all type of settings but cant resolve this...some one with same problem? Thanks


Make sure your RD hanger is perfectly straight. Lay a straight edge on it and measure to your rim in 4 places, all should be the same when its straight.


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## Aszors (Dec 11, 2013)

jspyderr said:


> Make sure your RD hanger is perfectly straight. Lay a straight edge on it and measure to your rim in 4 places, all should be the same when its straight.


I too had this issue on one if my bikes at first, I messed a little more with the B screw, and backed it out in small adjustments until it still shifted they the rest of the cassette and had no issues between 11 & 13 anymore


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

DR.BG said:


> Having an issue with my setup. All new parts when i installed the 42T cog. X9 type 2, sram cassette, new chain, new shifter, etc.
> 
> The setup shifts great, no issues there. But when in the larger 3 cogs, and under suspension compression, my rear derailleur gets "stuck" forward and loses chain tension. This only happened a couple of times, but i brought it into the bike shop and they thought it was a bad derailleur so had it warrantied with Sram.
> 
> ...


add 1 link


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## Latent (Apr 28, 2010)

scootdogss said:


> Did notice the jump from 15 to 19. Wt confirmed they will have 16T ready in a few weeks.


Oh really? That's awesome! I was hoping they would do something like this. My 15 to 19 isn't bad, but it's certainly not perfect. I'm still fiddling with the b screw a bit to try and make this upshift better.

Overall I'm pretty happy with the WT 40 in the back and 34 on the front on my Jet 9 Carbon.


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## Lindahl (Aug 9, 2011)

Makes more sense to me to buy a 11-34 9 speed cassette, replace the 9 speed spacers with 10 speed spacers (check bike shop for worn cassettes) and add the 40T (or even 42T). Perfect engineered shifting ratios, ramps and gates, plus a cheaper cassette.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

Lindahl said:


> Makes more sense to me to buy a 11-34 9 speed cassette, replace the 9 speed spacers with 10 speed spacers (check bike shop for worn cassettes) and add the 40T (or even 42T). Perfect engineered shifting ratios, ramps and gates, plus a cheaper cassette.


Could you explain that a little deeper? You would have to start with a lower end riveted cassette without a carrier, right? then you would have to cut all the rivets to make individual cogs wouldn't you? Then, replace the spacers and add the big cog. But, wouldn't all the loose cogs be a problem for digging in to the freehub body?

Also, I think the 34 to 42 jump would be too big of a jump, but you could start with a HG-62 12-36 9 speed cassette if you wanted to go with the 42.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*OneUP plus Absolute Black*

Set mine up last night- haven't had it on the trail yet, but around the block felt good:

Original setup was a XO crankset with 22/36- 104/64 bcd, XT 11-36 Cassette, XO mid-cage derailleur (this is all on a 2012 Spec Stumpjumper FSR 29er)

New stuff: OneUp 42t cog with 16t combo. Absolute Black 28t 64bcd NW chainring.

Put the 42 on with space on back as prescribed by OneUP. Pulled 15 and 17t cogs and replaced with 16t. The little grooved ramp on the 16t doesn't line up exactly with the others around it on the cassette- I found that having the groove to the left (when looking at the cassette) worked better than having it to the right, fwiw.

Screwed the b-tension screw about 2/3 of the way in. It did NOT need to go all the way in, in fact, shifting was worse with it in too far. Screwed in just enough to get the clearance from the 42t.

Installed the Absolute Black 28t chainring up front.

Didn't have to remove or add any links on chain.

My cranks are actually SRAM 2200's, which I later found out is the same as the XO- I'll be ordering a spiderless version from Absolute Black assuming things work out on first couple of rides- looks sill sitting behind the spider the way it is.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

Thanks for the post alshead!! 
I've been discussing these 64 BCD chain rings from Absolute Black around the forum, but you are the first person I have found to try them. 

Do you know what your chain line is, and which cog you are lining up with? 

Switching to a direct mount ring would probably change your chain line, which might be better, and might not. If things are working good, don't mess with it IMO!

Some people are having trouble with coming off the 42 while pedaling backwards, and trying to resolve it by moving chain line in, which is basically what the 64 BCD does for you anyway. 

I don't think it looks so bad behind the spider, and those tabs probably help with chain retention as well! But, if you wanted to dress it up you could just add a nice bashguard on your 104 BCD bolt holes.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

alshead said:


> Set mine up last night- haven't had it on the trail yet, but around the block felt good:
> 
> Original setup was a XO crankset with 22/36- 104/64 bcd, XT 11-36 Cassette, XO mid-cage derailleur (this is all on a 2012 Spec Stumpjumper FSR 29er)
> 
> ...


I wouldn't go spiderless if its working now.

I had issues with my Lenz. With a spiderless DM ring, when I back pedaled, it would come off the 42t.
So I took a grinder to the chainstay so I could fit a 32t GPX DM ring(has a dish to it) and now it all works fine.

Just makes sure if you go a direct mount ring it's a GPX one with dish and that it will put the ring in same place it is now.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Thanks for the feedback, gents. I'll test it out on the trail probably tomorrow and get a feel for things. I have no idea what my chain line is, but I'll check it out tonight and try to see where things are lined up. FWIW, the Absolute Black spider less says it has a chain line of 50mm- I don't know if that means it's dished, or if that means that, sitting on the spider, it will be 50mm away from the BB shell, or what. Any insight on that is welcome.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

TwoTone said:


> I and now it all works fine.


Until your chain stay falls off


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

alshead said:


> View attachment 897024
> View attachment 897025


Nice! I've been wondering what the AB 64bcd rings look like installed.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

smilinsteve said:


> Until your chain stay falls off


The Lenz is so beefy, that amount I took off wont effect it.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

alshead said:


> FWIW, the Absolute Black spider less says it has a chain line of 50mm- I don't know if that means it's dished, or if that means that, sitting on the spider, it will be 50mm away from the BB shell, or what. Any insight on that is welcome.


It usually means 50mm from the center line of the frame.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

Absolute Black lists the 50 mm chain line for a standard GXP set up, but they list it for all the SRAM GXP rings which includes the 104 and 64 BCD rings. My guess is the 50mm refers to the 104 position and the 64 BCD rings should be inboard of that. For the Shimano/ Race Face Rings for example, the 64 BCD is at 44 mm chain line.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

Just did mine yesterday and no issues. Shifting is great and love the wolf 40t shimano. 
Sb66c-
Xtr shifter
Xtr shadow plus long cage
11-36 shimano xtr removed recommended ring.
Wolf 40
Installed longer b screw

No issues set up by local lbs

Rode it yesterday and today on trail with mot an issue.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Yeti what's your crank setup?


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

spyghost said:


> Yeti what's your crank setup?


Shimano m785 2x10 converted with raceface nw 32t. Stick bolts no spacer and same bb spacing prior to change over.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Got to ride my setup today and it was awesome. A little trouble moving past the 16t replacement cog at first, but a half turn of the adjuster barrel cleared it up. Semi chunky trail and no drops, no issues. I might miss a high end "road" gear on some longer rides, but time will tell. For now, I'm psyched about it.

As for chainline, it appears to line up with the fourth or fifth cog up.









There are two types of mountain bikers. Those who are faster than me, and me.


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## rainx (Jun 14, 2013)

I am going from 2x9 to 1x10 all sram x9 type 2 and race face 30t. 
Not sure if i should get a wolf tooth 40 or 42t reading these threads there seems to be less problems with the 40t ?


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

42T one up setup continues to work extremely well on my Bronson / XT drivetrain, but that 16T one up cog has not been great. Despite a new cassette/chain/chainring, the 16T was skipping under load, so I took it off and put the shimano 15T back in. works great again. I tried various alignment of the oneup 16T cog but no success. Anyone else have same issue?


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## Ridefat1981 (Mar 17, 2014)

I run a race face 32 tooth with an x9 type 2 long cage and a 42 tooth GC. Didn't need the long b screw. 10 speed sram cassette, sram 11-36 cassette. I have several 100 hard miles on mine and it has never missed a shift.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

rainx- I think the thing to do is to figure out what range you're used to, and what range you need. In Colorado, I needed to be able to match up closer to my granny from a 22/36. It's not a gear I always need, but on some high-alpine stuff, I really, really appreciate it (and am sometimes searching for another gear!). So, a 42/28 was the best match. I don't often need to be pedaling above 26mph or so, which is about where this setup tops out on the flats/ dirt roads. 

Frorider- I haven't had and serious problems with my 16t- I find that I have to have the cable tension on my shifter a little higher than normal, but not so much that it hangs up the shifting when dropping back down. When I'm in the 16, I have to push a little further to shift up, but that's about it. Again, I oriented my 16t so that the groove/ ramp is towards the left of the ramps on the rest of the cassette.

Had it out again yesterday on a trail I ride A LOT. It was all pretty great, but the jump from 36 to 42 was a little much on a few occasions.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

frorider said:


> 42T one up setup continues to work extremely well on my Bronson / XT drivetrain, but that 16T one up cog has not been great. Despite a new cassette/chain/chainring, the 16T was skipping under load, so I took it off and put the shimano 15T back in. works great again. I tried various alignment of the oneup 16T cog but no success. Anyone else have same issue?


The 16T works ok for me. There is slight hesitation going into and out of the 16...but its not bad enough for me to remove it.

Double check on how the 16T is clocked.


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

thanks for the info.

My issue w/ the 16T was not shifting to / from it. The issue was that if I was pedalling moderately hard on the 16T, and then stood up and applied more pressure on the pedals, the chain would skip around on the 16T almost as if the chain or cog was old and worn out--in fact both are brand new though.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I had that issue when I tried a SRAM 16T off a road cassette. I'm pretty sure that had to do with the clocking of the cog. Maybe check the spacing of the cog relative to the others?


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## LB412 (Nov 28, 2012)

I do not even notice the gap from 15 to 19 anymore. 42, with XT Shadow Plus, and 30 T Race Face N/W


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Are those NOT having issues are using a long cage?

And those HAVING issues are using medium/short cage?


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## Mk3Rider (Dec 7, 2008)

Running a long cadge x7 type 2 w/ no issues. 28T wolf tooth up front w/ a 11-42 on the rear. Runs spot on.


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

frorider said:


> thanks for the info.
> 
> My issue w/ the 16T was not shifting to / from it. The issue was that if I was pedalling moderately hard on the 16T, and then stood up and applied more pressure on the pedals, the chain would skip around on the 16T almost as if the chain or cog was old and worn out--in fact both are brand new though.


*I had the same issue its the design of the teeth... it starts out like a worn cog the teeth are way to small and the spacing is too big. notice the dents in the tooth after 4 rides. It would skip on me on out of the saddle power climbs, replaced it with an old 8 speed 16 tooth and problem solved.*


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

frorider said:


> 42T one up setup continues to work extremely well on my Bronson / XT drivetrain


Does anyone know if the derailleur hanger of the Bronson Carbon is the same as the Tallboy Carbon?


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

CrozCountry said:


> Does anyone know if the derailleur hanger of the Bronson Carbon is the same as the Tallboy Carbon?


Check the web site. I only see one Drop out that seems to apply to both bikes, which is the standard 142 thru axle drop out:

https://shop.santacruzbicycles.com/parts-and-tools/by-type/hangers-dropouts/do-kit-142-ta.html


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

Mk3Rider said:


> Running a long cadge x7 type 2 w/ no issues. 28T wolf tooth up front w/ a 11-42 on the rear. Runs spot on.


Running long cage xtr shadow plus. Wolf 40t and no issues


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## c3024446 (Apr 16, 2010)

All these solutions to xx1 are pieces of s***. I've had enough.

First I had a general lee 29-42 extender that I paid a fortune for. Started skipping in the 29 after 800km. Binned it. Next I'm on the wolf tooth 42t, with a new xt cassette and kmc chain, shifts better and lasts longer than the general lee, but not great. I got the one-up 16t, but that skips with my new chain because the teeth are too short, great design guys :/

I have xx1 on another bike - flawless shifting, amazing range. I'm throwing in the towel and getting x1 when it's available to buy.


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## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

c3024446 said:


> All these solutions to xx1 are pieces of s***. I've had enough.
> 
> First I had a general lee 29-42 extender that I paid a fortune for. Started skipping in the 29 after 800km. Binned it. Next I'm on the wolf tooth 42t, with a new xt cassette and kmc chain, shifts better and lasts longer than the general lee, but not great. I got the one-up 16t, but that skips with my new chain because the teeth are too short, great design guys :/
> 
> I have xx1 on another bike - flawless shifting, amazing range. I'm throwing in the towel and getting x1 when it's available to buy.


I've had the opposite experience.
Bought a Hope 40t.
Running a Sram XO Type 2 medium cage (with KMC X10SL chain and Sram XX1 32t crank).
Absolutely flawless. Shifts smoothly and perfectly. To me the 11-40 range is ideal. I don't need a 10t and I definitely don't need a 42t.
I like the latest and greatest like everyone and looking for an excuse to buy the X01 11-speed cassette and RD but honestly I can't find the reason.


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

c3024446 said:


> All these solutions to xx1 are pieces of s***. I've had enough.
> 
> First I had a general lee 29-42 extender that I paid a fortune for. Started skipping in the 29 after 800km. Binned it. Next I'm on the wolf tooth 42t, with a new xt cassette and kmc chain, shifts better and lasts longer than the general lee, but not great. I got the one-up 16t, but that skips with my new chain because the teeth are too short, great design guys :/
> 
> I have xx1 on another bike - flawless shifting, amazing range. I'm throwing in the towel and getting x1 when it's available to buy.


Long term is the big question but right now, the 13-42T cassette that I am using with a 30T N/W ring seem pretty normal to me. I ran the 30T with a 11-36 XT cassette for a while before and the modified cassette does not feel much different. Without a doubt, it requires spot on adjustment to work properly and my guess it will require more maintenance.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

13/42 is a waste. Your not expanding your cassette at all, your just spending money on shiny parts.


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## Billinsd (May 10, 2012)

dirtrider76 said:


> 13/42 is a waste. Your not expanding your cassette at all, your just spending money on shiny parts.


Do you mean that going from 11x36 (36-11=25) to 13x42 (42-13=29) is not expanding cassette range? Isn't 29 more than 25 or am I missing something?
Bill


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## LB412 (Nov 28, 2012)

My OneUp 42 with RF 30t narrow/wide is still working flawlessly. Shifts great and I have only had one dropped chain... Which was in a reasonable drop on a fast DH section.


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## pedalfasterben (Aug 21, 2011)

Billinsd said:


> Do you mean that going from 11x36 (36-11=25) to 13x42 (42-13=29) is not expanding cassette range? Isn't 29 more than 25 or am I missing something?
> Bill


His point was your not expanding the cassette range, you're shifting it. It all comes down to what you're willing to give up, and what you use the least. Per a study quoted on absoluteblack.cc, 90% of riders never use the 11.

Depending on your crank setup, you may be better suited getting a smaller front chainring vs converting to 42? I prefer the butter shifting of my stock XTR, but ride all mountain and need to climb, so simply run a 28t in the front. Do I spin out on the roads with a 28-11 - yup - but don't care cause it's the best solution 'for me' on the trails.

If you can go smaller in the front it's a better solution, if you can't and use the 11 the least, the 13-42 is your best bet.


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## Trajan (Feb 9, 2004)

dirtrider76 said:


> 13/42 is a waste. Your not expanding your cassette at all, your just spending money on shiny parts.


There is more to moving to a 1 x 10 than just expanding your gear range. Think about it. Just think about it.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Billinsd said:


> Do you mean that going from 11x36 (36-11=25) to 13x42 (42-13=29) is not expanding cassette range? Isn't 29 more than 25 or am I missing something?
> Bill


The range is:
36/11 = 3.27
42/13 = 3.23

So 42/13 does not have more range.

90% of riders don't use the 11? Thats because 99% of them are on 2x or 3x.


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

dirtrider76 said:


> 13/42 is a waste. Your not expanding your cassette at all, your just spending money on shiny parts.


My post was about the shifting performance of the 1 X 10 systems that people are using in this thread.

With that said, feel free to enlighten me why using a 30 X 13-42 is a waste. If there is a better way to use a single ring up front with a cassette range my legs and lungs like for my terrain, I am open to it.


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## pedalfasterben (Aug 21, 2011)

It's not just about range, it's about ratios, riders, and terrain. Generally more range is better, but you can't ignore cadence, preference, and what gears you use most to make the decision. If you need a 42 to make climbs, and use your 13/15/17 more than your 11, and can't/don't wanna use a smaller chainring in front, it makes perfect sense to go 13-42!

Check this link to see Marcin's (Absolute Black) comment: Absolute Black Unveils 4-Cog 40-Tooth Oversized Cassette Adapter


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Some ppl dont or refuse to understand. Its not a waste, if ur not some in great shape live on ur mtb type rider, so u rarely or never use the 11t, then 30x 13-42 would work for u. 

The idea behind the 40 and 42t was originally to give the wide range that is offered by 1x11 system. But many of us are finding that we can go 1x but do a simple drop the cog we dont use, the 11 and gain more low range in its place to help close the range lost by loss of granny ring.

Just ignore that stuff, its their opinion nothing more. They are the rest of us. I'm 30x11-36 atm but will be 13-40 here soon. I go by the numbers and what I feel on my bike.

Do what u want and feel will work best, numbers dont lie.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

I think most people here have the idea that you get range from the cassette, and your final ratio (for cadence, climbing...) from the front chain ring.

So instead of going 13-42 and loosing range, you can stay with 11-36 that shifts the best, and use a smaller chainring to get the low climbing range and cadence. You will get great shifting, the low gear you need, and better range. win-win-win. 

This is only possible if your crank and frame can take a smaller ring. Personally, if I was stuck with a crank that cannot, I rather get a new crank with a smaller ring than poor shifting or loosing range.

In other words, if you need more low end, a smaller ring is a better alternative than 13-42.


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## vack (Jan 2, 2003)

tigris99 said:


> Some ppl dont or refuse to understand. Its not a waste, if ur not some in great shape live on ur mtb type rider, so u rarely or never use the 11t, then 30x 13-42 would work for u.
> 
> The idea behind the 40 and 42t was originally to give the wide range that is offered by 1x11 system. But many of us are finding that we can go 1x but do a simple drop the cog we dont use, the 11 and gain more low range in its place to help close the range lost by loss of granny ring.
> 
> ...


Exactly

32-13/42 here, and where I live it's spot on. Just ride what ya like, and what works for you!


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

Until it reaches a point where most people are getting truly good shifting all the way throughout the range with a truly wide range cassette (11-40 or 11-42) this seems like a downgrade from a 2x10 system. I expect that the real gamechanger will come when someone produces a good, complete 11-40 or 11-42 cassette.


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## vack (Jan 2, 2003)

I will agree that shifting is not as precise (with my XT Drivetrain)
However, I looked at this as an experiment and a cheap one at that.

#1 - will I be able to 1x
#2 - before I spend a boatload of cash on Xwhatever1 drive will I like it.
#3 - how much weight can I drop on my bike and still be able to ride it.


Answers
#1 - Yup
#2 - I think my next bike will have some form of Xx or XO1 drivetrains
#3 - 1 pound by losing two rings (have a triple) cables, shifter, derailleur


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

vack said:


> I will agree that shifting is not as precise (with my XT Drivetrain)
> However, I looked at this as an experiment and a cheap one at that.
> 
> #1 - will I be able to 1x
> ...


 I think you hit all the key points. The 1 X system is here to stay and has lots of potential benefits. Gear range in not one of them in my mind...

As for shifting and messing with cogs, back in the late 80's and early 90's, nobody ran a stock cassette or even stock chainrings. My memory is hazy but I remember that back than, all the cassettes contained free cogs that you could mix and match to get what you needed. And most people did. That eventually changed in the early-mid part of the 90's but you could still buy cogs from Harris Cyclery to modify your cassette. Most were heavy but they worked. I have run a 34T rear cog on my 6 speed, 7 speed, 8 speed and 9 speed cassettes.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

scottg said:


> Until it reaches a point where most people are getting truly good shifting all the way throughout the range with a truly wide range cassette (11-40 or 11-42) this seems like a downgrade from a 2x10 system. I expect that the real gamechanger will come when someone produces a good, complete 11-40 or 11-42 cassette.


I run 2x9 (11-34, 24+36) on my Blur XC and 1x10 (11-36, 32) on the Stumpy hard tail.
I prefer the 1x10.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

scottg said:


> I expect that the real gamechanger will come when someone produces a good, complete 11-40 or 11-42 cassette.


There actually is something like that, but I don't know about "good" 
11-40 Recon Cassette, - 10 speed Titan for Shimano XTR/ Deore gray.
At those prices most people will just wait for X1

I am surprised that the giant cog makers did not figure it out yet. OneUp 16T apparently is very problematic, WT and others do not even offer a solution, and General Lee which seemed like the best idea (replacing entire part of the cassette) also comes with its share of problems.

I would like to see more solutions like General Lee (replacing a chunk of the cassette rather than modifying it) from companies that have good track record, like WT.


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## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

Cranky perfectionists aren't happy. I've got my wt 42t, rf n/w 30t, and added a oneup 16t cog on an XT setup, and it's been great. I rode some real good elevation in VT last week, and it didn't have a single issue. I'm totally happy. I assume I'll be replacing some worn parts at some point, but I'm really happy with my results.


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## FreshWaterLake (Sep 29, 2012)

11-42 surely produce more range than 13-42. (everyone knows that, including 13-42 users....)
Its not about the number of tooth difference but the ratio in relation to the front chainring.

Some folks are still going for 13-42 because:
1. they are already using 30t (limited to 104BCD) front chainring. (they cannot go to 28t or lower with 104BCD.....more on this later)
2.they are unable to adjust shifting to work well in all range. While 36-42 cogs shift great, 11-13-15 cogs may shift crappy or vice-vesa.
3. they are able to get smoother shifting transition from 13-42 range as they can keep the 15 and 17 cogs. 

Currently, only Shimano 16t Y1YR16000 (with 180deg rotation) works perfectly on the ramp shifts. (I have previously post a picture to explain the reason. Check my post on pg 36, #879). They are hard to get though. (I sold some on ebay previously and they are all gone fast)
Even Shimano 9sp 16t cog does not shift as well. Oneup 16t is also misaligned to shimano cassette ramps.
(if you can accept oneup 16t shift, you are probably not fussy guy in shifting)
Some folks comments 8sp 16t cog work well, but I have not tried and cannot confirm.

Next, I have previously measured some Shimano RD's hanger hole-center to the pulley jockey wheel center.
Shimano XT shadow+ is one of them which measured slightly longer. Measure those without shadow+ and they are significantly shorter length. Shorter length RD may be problematic shifting a 11-42cog, but 11-40t cog should be OK. I have tried 773GS RD (very short length) and they work well enough for 11-40t-Rex.
SRAM type 2 have lesser problem adjusting because they are already longer length in design.
Note this dimension is very important (at least for Shimano users, longer is better) as it is able to wrap the chain around the small cogs more and reduce chances of chain slip when cranking under power.
(See Pg 36, post #877)

In adjustment, to enjoy 11-42 shifting, (assuming you are already using shimano XT+) you need to compromised slightly on the 36 to 42 cog shifting. A little bit of rough shift (occasional rumbling vibration before engaging, you will understand what I mean if you adjust yourself) works a long way to help out for a smoother shift for the smaller 11,13,15 cogs. 

Lastly, if you are using 2x crank, there is a good option from Absolute Black 28/30t (64BCD). The chainline is good for 2x crank. (its bad for 3x crank)
I can still mount a normal Hope bashguard (backward, logo inside) on the 104 BCD.
For 3x crank, stick to 104BCD chainring for best chainline. (limited to 30t)


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## ACLakey (Jul 7, 2012)

Great information. 

I have a 2013 Trance X0 29er and need some lower gearing for the steep climbs here. Currently the bike has XT 38/24 cranks and a SLX cassette 11-36 10 speed. For simplicity sake I am looking at a 42t and removing the 11t and using a 13t lock ring. Does anybody know if this combination will work? I have been doing a lot of reading but haven't found my answer.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

ACLakey said:


> Great information.
> 
> I have a 2013 Trance X0 29er and need some lower gearing for the steep climbs here. Currently the bike has XT 38/24 cranks and a SLX cassette 11-36 10 speed. For simplicity sake I am looking at a 42t and removing the 11t and using a 13t lock ring. Does anybody know if this combination will work? I have been doing a lot of reading but haven't found my answer.
> 
> Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk


 read ^^^. As said many have done this u know about getting a proper lockring so u have read about others doing it.

Bike frame doesn't matter all that matters is ur drive train.


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## warimono (Nov 23, 2010)

Which spiderless rings have the most dish? Can that be adjusted further by a small margin by putting a spacer between the ring and the crank?



TwoTone said:


> I wouldn't go spiderless if its working now.
> 
> I had issues with my Lenz. With a spiderless DM ring, when I back pedaled, it would come off the 42t.
> So I took a grinder to the chainstay so I could fit a 32t GPX DM ring(has a dish to it) and now it all works fine.
> ...


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

warimono said:


> Which spiderless rings have the most dish?


"Most dish" I guess means closest to the center of the bike? I think NSB has 47mm chain line, that's the smallest I know.
NSB must use a chain guide (unlike the new rings with the square teeth, WT, XX1, etc).


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## perebor (Jun 11, 2014)

Hello everyone.

I adapt my old van change 9v X-0 to 10v
Anyone know if I can put a 40T sprocket
OneUp Components - OneUp Components Sprocket

Thanks


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## AaGro (Mar 7, 2012)

I finally put this kit together after sitting on all of it for a couple of months. My drivetrain was worn out after 2500 miles or so. I needed a new cassette, chain rings, and chain at the very least

Here is my drivetrain build out (all on an ibis SLR):
Recycled: SLX shifter and cranks (triple)
New: 
XT 10 speed cassette
XT shadow plus, long cage
Cable but not housing
Wolftooth GC 42 for shimano
One-up 16 tooth
Raceface narrow-wide 32 teeth
KMC x10SL chain (first time using their chains)

The build was relatively easy. I do most of my own wrenching and always have. I am not super particular (sometimes I go a few weeks without maintenance other than chain cleaning and re-lube) but I hate it when the rear shifting is off - can't grab the next gear or need to turn the crank more than once to move to the next cog.
For help, I had the video from bikeco.com about chain length and rear derailleur loaded on YouTube. I was most concerned about getting chain length wrong and this video was super helpful. 
B-tension: I didn't need the longer screw, I did remove the plastic lock washer 
Chainring: mounted flipped at the middle position. Buys you a mm or so by flipping the chainring so the bolts engage the face and not the recess.
16 tooth: SH in the widest gap, right of the single-ridge on the hub. Though the ramps clearly do not align to the existing ramps. 
42 tooth: per WT direction. Again, some ramps align perfectly but there are excess ramps on the 42 tooth.

Riding:
Ride one - 13 miles, 1100 feet of climbing. Shifting was better than I expected. Slight problems moving around the 16tooth and when sitting in the 36 it would rub slightly. 
Ride two - 11.8 miles, 650'. I made some adjustments that made things worse. Shifting was bad going onto and coming off the 16 tooth, I also over shifted off the 11. 
Ride 3 - 10.9 miles 700' very up down requires a lot of shifting. I backed off b-tension and adjusted the high limit in to get better performance on the 11 tooth. Also dialed up the tension on the cable with the barrel adjuster. Shifting felt pretty good, again with small problems around the 16 tooth.
Ride 4 - an exact repeat of ride 3 with no new adjustment, I had a skip at the 16 tooth under out of the saddle load up a short rise at the beginning of the ride. I tried to get it to repeat several times late in the ride but couldn't get it to.

Impressions:
I am not satisfied with the shifting but I love the set-up.
Coming from a triple I was really worried about the loss of two gear ratios on the low end. I shouldn't have been. I'm slightly more sore this week than I usually would be with this volume but I'm not using the 42 tooth as often as I thought I would. 2-3 times per ride for short durations and I feel like I might want a 40 in there. I'm considering moving up to a 34 tooth and keeping the 42. Yody is right here...the 32 tooth provides a very low gear that almost makes it hard to stay upright on climbs that are anything but fire-road. I don't think I could manage a 30t on the front.
Amazingly quiet but everybody has told me that for the last year. I also thought I would miss the dump gear effect of having the triple for fast transitions between down and up. I don't, the 1 x is more intuitive to ride. I also find myself faster through these transitions and often surprised that I'm sitting in the middle of the cassette at the end of short punchy climbs where I'd be in a granny gear on my triple set-up. 

What next: I'm trying to improve the shifting around the 16 tooth. I can get good up or good down, not both. So I dug through my spares bin and found an old LX cassette that has a 16tooth cog. I will try to extract it (first look yesterday shift ramps look right, but it was tough to drill pins and cutting the aluminum carrier was going to be hours of work - maybe I'll go buy a carbide bit). Any tips?
I don't think I will go back though. At 32 in front, I'm already missing some top end so 30-36 isn't going to work for me. Just need to fix the 16 tooth shifting. I may even try putting back the native 17.

I'm open to feedback and would love to hear from those that have gotten decent results around the 16t.


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

I'm open to feedback and would love to hear from those that have gotten decent results around the 16t.[/QUOTE said:


> *I installed a 16 tooth off an old shimano 8 speed Hg70 cassette on my sram 1050 cassette and its working flawlessly filed the big space and clocked to the sram ramps. working great! no hesitation whatsoever put about 500 miles on it now still perfect..*
> *The oneup 16 tooth is crap the skipping will only get worse go back a few pages and you will see why*


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## AaGro (Mar 7, 2012)

Rakuman said:


> *I installed a 16 tooth off an old shimano 8 speed Hg70 cassette on my sram 1050 cassette and its working flawlessly filed the big space and clocked to the sram ramps. working great! no hesitation whatsoever put about 500 miles on it now still perfect..*


How did you get the 16t off the carrier?


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## Lindahl (Aug 9, 2011)

Don't get how you 13T guys are happy with less than 30x11. 30x11 is just barely acceptable on trail. So many times I've tried to throw down a pedal or two on descent out of the saddle only to find no resistance at all. I'd like more than 32x11, personally, but I could probably suck it up. 32 kinda needs 40 out back for me, otherwise I'm walking a bit more than I'd like. 32x11-40/42 would likely be ideal, but I'll wait until the product works better and suck it up with a 36 for now. Or maybe just for cheaper 11 speed. SRAM's 32x10-42 would be just about right and likely leave me pretty darn happy.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Lindahl said:


> Don't get how you 13T guys are happy with less than 30x11. 30x11 is just barely acceptable on trail. So many times I've tried to throw down a pedal or two on descent out of the saddle only to find no resistance at all. I'd like more than 32x11, personally, but I could probably suck it up. 32 kinda needs 40 out back for me, otherwise I'm walking a bit more than I'd like. 32x11-40/42 would likely be ideal, but I'll wait until the product works better and suck it up with a 36 for now. Or maybe just for cheaper 11 speed. SRAM's 32x10-42 would be just about right and likely leave me pretty darn happy.


not being a smart ass but it depends on the rider like everything else. Trails around me there is no room to build that kinda speed for long enough to matter. Any long enough decent where I am that fast I'd have to come back up half the cassette or more shortly after it levels out for either a climb or tight narrow corners.

What works for you and you like isn't what works for me. I haven't gotten my 40t yet but run 30x11-36 atm and never bothered past the 15t on my 29er yet. Any faster im decending and going as fast as im comfortable with for the section. Not to mention wife,kids, job etc. Faster = more severely hurt if I make a mistake. My challenges are techy stuff and climbs, not going so fast if I clip a tree im being airlifted to the hospital.


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

tigris99 said:


> not being a smart ass but it depends on the rider like everything else. Trails around me there is no room to build that kinda speed for long enough to matter. Any long enough decent where I am that fast I'd have to come back up half the cassette or more shortly after it levels out for either a climb or tight narrow corners.
> 
> What works for you and you like isn't what works for me. I haven't gotten my 40t yet but run 30x11-36 atm and never bothered past the 15t on my 29er yet. Any faster im decending and going as fast as im comfortable with for the section. Not to mention wife,kids, job etc. Faster = more severely hurt if I make a mistake. My challenges are techy stuff and climbs, not going so fast if I clip a tree im being airlifted to the hospital.


*22 mph max on a 34X 11X 26" not nearly fast enough for many trails in my neck of the woods lol all I want is a 10 tooth cog *


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## Bail_Monkey (May 8, 2007)

Has anyone run the 40t with a short cage Sram X9 on a hardtail? (32t Wolftooth on the front, but I don't think that matters) I have a 11-36 Sram PG-1070 cassette.

The Wolftooth site states that the shortcage will be difficult to run, but it may be referring to the 42t.....?

TIA


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Just hooked up a friends Scott 29er, it was 3x10. Removed all the heavy stuff that was hard to to keep clean. Installed Race Face 30 tooth narrow wide ring to his XT crank, Twenty6 40 tooth rear cog, new xt 11/36 10 speed cassette, Shimano Zee derail. and new XT chain. Removed the 17 tooth from cassette. Installed 2014 Shimano Dura Ace 9000 shift cable assy. Used his old SLX 10 shifter, shifts like butter. His bike has been transformed, lighter, very quiet, goes over logs and rocks with better clearance. The Zee derail. is the key to a perfect 1x10 setup and the cable.

To topped it all off installed new older flow rims with DT swiss 340 hubs, DT swiss comp spokes and alloy nips. My buddy is blown away by the upgrades!!


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

dgw7000 said:


> Just hooked up a friends Scott 29er, it was 3x10. Removed all the heavy stuff that was hard to to keep clean. Installed Race Face 30 tooth narrow wide ring to his XT crank, Twenty6 40 tooth rear cog, new xt 11/36 10 speed cassette, Shimano Zee derail. and new XT chain. Removed the 17 tooth from cassette. Installed 2014 Shimano Dura Ace 9000 shift cable assy. Used his old SLX 10 shifter, shifts like butter. His bike has been transformed, lighter, very quiet, goes over logs and rocks with better clearance. The Zee derail. is the key to a perfect 1x10 setup and the cable.
> 
> To topped it all off installed new older flow rims with DT swiss 340 hubs, DT swiss comp spokes and alloy nips. My buddy is blown away by the upgrades!!


Super nice setup! Your buddy 'should' be jazzed!! The 30t is the ticket to get a better center cassette chain line to help with cross chain/noise while in the granny cog too!


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Isn't the zee stretched out too far on the 40t?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Derailleur size based on its overall motion, how much chain it can keep tight throughout its range of motion. That's its rated capacity

Zee is over stretched if the chain is too short. But that's for any derailleur.


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## stu-2 (May 31, 2012)

can i just take off the 11t cog instead of the 17t without without any problems or do i have to purchase the lockring that was posted earlier.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Trust me there is no better Rear derailleur than the ZEE for 30 front and 40 rear tooth setups. 80 bucks, its very stout nice and tucked out of harms way. Short cage works perfect ,shifting is nice and crisp with no flex detected with the steal instead of alloy is this derailleur. Also looks great!!


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

Lindahl said:


> Don't get how you 13T guys are happy with less than 30x11. 30x11 is just barely acceptable on trail. So many times I've tried to throw down a pedal or two on descent out of the saddle only to find no resistance at all. I'd like more than 32x11, personally, but I could probably suck it up. 32 kinda needs 40 out back for me, otherwise I'm walking a bit more than I'd like. 32x11-40/42 would likely be ideal, but I'll wait until the product works better and suck it up with a 36 for now. Or maybe just for cheaper 11 speed. SRAM's 32x10-42 would be just about right and likely leave me pretty darn happy.


I don't understand how people ride with anything less than a a 53/43 combo. I have run these front rings with a 12-21 8 speed rear cassette for years. I have ridden up and down the Tourmalet and the Madeleine with this. Don't know how anybody could ride anything else.

Context my son. Context. Think. Just think.


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## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

dgw7000 said:


> Trust me there is no better Rear derailleur than the ZEE for 30 front and 40 rear tooth setups. 80 bucks, its very stout nice and tucked out of harms way. Short cage works perfect ,shifting is nice and crisp with no flex detected with the steal instead of alloy is this derailleur. Also looks great!!


11-40 rear + Zee short cage works? Sweet! I did not think it had the capacity.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

What are our options for 13t lockrings? Is absolute black the only game in town? Is there a way to run a 12t cog with lockring?


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

12t lockring will work just fine with a 13 cog. kinda unsure what you're asking, but yes you can run 11 lock on a 12 cog and 12 lock on a 13 w/o any probs

i've been running a zee FR with a 40 t-rex & 34 hope ring for almost 2 months and love it.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

stu-2 said:


> can i just take off the 11t cog instead of the 17t without without any problems or do i have to purchase the lockring that was posted earlier.





WHALENARD said:


> What are our options for 13t lockrings? Is absolute black the only game in town? Is there a way to run a 12t cog with lockring?





fishwrinkle said:


> 12t lockring will work just fine with a 13 cog. kinda unsure what you're asking, but yes you can run 11 lock on a 12 cog and 12 lock on a 13 w/o any probs
> 
> i've been running a zee FR with a 40 t-rex & 34 hope ring for almost 2 months and love it.


I think he's asking because of the other poster above.

Depends on what the next cog is on your cassette. If its a 13 no- you need the lock ring.

If its a 12, then yes you dont need a new lock ring.

I bought mine from Chain reaction.
Token Alloy Lockring - Shimano 12t | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

I've got an extra 16t cog from an XT cassette available. If anyone wants it, PM me.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

^9spd or 10?


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

OneUp Components - RAD Cage


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

Already ordered my RAD cage, I hope it's as rad as they claim.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/one-up-rad-derailleur-919355.html

What will be interesting is this: stock SRAM X9 med cage vs RAD XT

XT will 'theoretically' benefit from it, anyone here got any positive and/or negative feedbacks for SRAM X9 med cage?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I switched over from a XT to a X9 RD/X0 shifter...and for me the X9 felt more precise.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

spyghost said:


> OneUp Components - RAD Cage


Now I am really tempted to be an early adaptor. Oops, sold out. Saved me from being the first to report


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

dfrazm said:


> Just got my Wolf Tooth Red 42T GC in last Thursday. Sram specific GC went on a Sram 1050 cassette (11-36) on a Canfield Yelli Screamy. I am running a regular Shimano 64BCD 28t "granny" chainring on the front. I have run this chainring, cassette, KMC X10SL chain, and a Sram X9 type II mid-cage derailleur for more than a year without a single dropped chain. The 28t "granny" does not have the ramps/teeth of a shifting middle or large ring, and the teeth are actually longer, so it pretty much works like a SS ring. The chainline on the Yelli is PERFECT with this ring in the 64 BCD position on a 2X (XT M785) crankset with one bottom bracket spacer on the drive side (as Shimano instructions say should be done). Perfect 1X10 shifting and no dropped chains in over a year (riding in AZ chunk).
> 
> I was nervous about the GC with the Yelli's chainstays being so short. I mounted it per directions, but I left out the 15t cog, as I always use the 17t and 19t. I ordered a new KMC X10SL chain, as I new I would need a longer chain and these cannot be lengthened as they have mushroomed pins, and the pin mushroom is destroyed when you push a pin out. I could have used another quick-link, but I did not want two on a chain.
> 
> ...


any idea if a 64bcd 30t will clear the chain stay of a YS?


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## jeRdrgz (Mar 9, 2013)

One question. I have a XT 2x crankset. Can I convert it to 1x? Which components do I need please? I do single-track and XC. And also have the 42GC already installed. Thanks


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## temporoad (Jul 27, 2006)

jeRdrgz said:


> One question. I have a XT 2x crankset. Can I convert it to 1x? Which components do I need please? I do single-track and XC. And also have the 42GC already installed. Thanks


nothing, other than the chain ring. Keep the mounting hardware you will need it. I bought a RaceFace wide/narrow and it fit on my 2x XT crank just fine.

edit. the W/N was a 30t.


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## Latent (Apr 28, 2010)

jeRdrgz said:


> One question. I have a XT 2x crankset. Can I convert it to 1x? Which components do I need please? I do single-track and XC. And also have the 42GC already installed. Thanks


If you have a 2x10 now and want to go to a 1x11 with proper gearing you will need the following:

-one front chainring (like a wolf tooth 30 or 32 tooth)
-one rear cog (a 42 or 40).

You'll remove both rings up front and put the single WT ring on.
Then you'll take your rear cassette off, pull the 15 or 17T cog out, put the 40 or 42 on the end of the stack, then put your cassette back on.
Finally, make any rear derailleur and chain adjustments if necessary.

If you look at Wolf Tooth Components website you'll see the options for Shimano cassettes and cranks. I had an XT 2x10 setup on my Niner and converted it to a 1x10. I bought a 32T Wolf Tooth front ring and a 40T Wolf Tooth rear. That way I kept the same low gear range and just lost a little on the top end (which is ok for where I ride).

FYI...There are other manufacturers other than Wolf Tooth, I'm just more familiar with them.

Hope this helps.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Latent said:


> If you have a 2x10 now and want to go to a 1x11 with proper gearing you will need the following:
> 
> Hope this helps.


That will give 1x10

He's already running a 42t in the rear.

All he needs is a front n/w style chain ring and maybe adjusting the chain line via the BB or chain ring spacers.


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## Latent (Apr 28, 2010)

NordieBoy said:


> That will give 1x10


You are correct! That was a typo on my part...thanks for catching it =)


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

For a shimano 2x crank, which gives the best chainline? The 64bcd or the 104? Absolute black has NW for 64bcd.


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

My guess is 64bcd, but it would look like crap.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

The 104 will have a bash instead


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

Right of course, it won't look crap then, just old school.


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

NordieBoy said:


> All he needs is a front n/w style chain ring and maybe adjusting the chain line via the BB or chain ring spacers.


Well actually he does not really need a new chain ring, he just needs spacers to reposition the existing one. If he is running a shadow+ derailleur that will be enough to keep the chain on the ring. And even that might not be a requirement if he gets instead a chain retention device. I am running a normal XT derailleur with a homemade one and it works fine.


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## rpmk104 (Oct 24, 2005)

Hey everyone,

I just received the new e13 42t cog. I tried to install it on my bike but the cog hits the derailleur "arm" for the shift cable. The e13 cog comes with a longer b screw but that does not solve the problem. I have a xt shadow plus long cage derailleur. Anyone else ran into this problem?










Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## rpmk104 (Oct 24, 2005)

One more pic









Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Davide said:


> Well actually he does not really need a new chain ring, he just needs spacers to reposition the existing one. If he is running a shadow+ derailleur that will be enough to keep the chain on the ring. And even that might not be a requirement if he gets instead a chain retention device. I am running a normal XT derailleur with a homemade one and it works fine.


A Zee derailleur with clutch was not enough on mine for a normal front ring.
The new chain ring is much simpler than chain retention devices and bash type rings.


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## Chris9702l (May 12, 2004)

First, make sure the hanger is not bent 
Second, take a dremel to it. I had to do that on mine and it works fine now. I had problem when going from the bigger cogs down to smaller. Took about 20 minutes to get it right. Works good jow


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

I run a WT 42T on 2 bikes, one w/XT Shadow + (GS, Medium Cage) and the other with XTR Medium Cage rear derailleurs. Both bikes have 11-36 XTR cassettes. I had the same clearance problem as the OP with the XT rear der, but the XTR der cleared. The chain hit the rear der on the way down, but cleared on the way up, FWIW.

I suspected a bent hanger, but using a tool the frame was straight. Like Chris I ground the inside of the XT Der a little bit, and it's fine now.

Shifts very well both ways, but I don't like the 15-19 gearing change, it's too much. This problem shows itself on one particular ride that I do regularly, a lot of the ride is really between those 2 gears. I'll be happy when I can put a reliable 16 on there.


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## HOLLYWOOD33 (Jan 2, 2009)

I just ordered the 42T One-Up... They ship with a free 16T now...

I'm excited to get it all together!


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

I did say "reliable 16T". Seen too many reports of premature wear on the One-up version.


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## HOLLYWOOD33 (Jan 2, 2009)

UtahJohn said:


> I did say "reliable 16T". Seen too many reports of premature wear on the One-up version.


Really?

Well that sucks...


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## runningwild (Sep 6, 2010)

I have a large 2013 Giant Trance X29. I installed the Hope T-Rex 40T rear cog, and the Hope 30T front ring. With some adjustment this setup works great. I am running a KMC chain w/ an medium cage XT cassette and clutch rear derailleur. I initially removed the 17T rear cog to make room for the 40T but the 15-19 gap is a bit much. OneUp sells a 16T that should solve that. Has anyone installed the OneUp RAD rear derailleur plate?


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

get a 9 spd xt 16t cog grind the large ear down so you can clock it to where the ramps line up (~180*) and voila, good shifting. imo, throw the one up 16 in the recycle bin, they're just not made good at all.


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## jvp108 (Nov 22, 2005)

rpmk104 said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I just received the new e13 42t cog. I tried to install it on my bike but the cog hits the derailleur "arm" for the shift cable. The e13 cog comes with a longer b screw but that does not solve the problem. I have a xt shadow plus long cage derailleur. Anyone else ran into this problem?
> 
> ...


Same setup here but I have 2 to 3 mm of clearance. It's close but not touching.


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

rpmk104 said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I just received the new e13 42t cog. I tried to install it on my bike but the cog hits the derailleur "arm" for the shift cable. The e13 cog comes with a longer b screw but that does not solve the problem. I have a xt shadow plus long cage derailleur. Anyone else ran into this problem?
> 
> ...


I had that problem too. Use a spacer on the RD mount to space the RD outboard a couple of mm.

Worked for me.


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## Bike Whisperer (Aug 7, 2012)

I like many others did not like the 15t to 19t jump with my Wolf Tooth 42t installed. I looked at what gears I used and in all honesty I almost never use my 11t so I removed it and used a 12t lock ring (I had one sitting around) on the 13t cog.

So now I have 13-42t...missing the top end but the shifting is better and I like the 17t in there better.


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

Bike Whisperer said:


> So now I have 13-42t...missing the top end but the shifting is better and I like the 17t in there better.


Kind of silly: 13-42 and 11-36 are VERY close, you can just keep your 1136 and change front chain ring.

1136 x 32: 2.9 to 0.89
1342 x 32: 2.46 to 0.76
1136 X 30: 2.72 to 0.83


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

Davide said:


> Kind of silly: 13-42 and 11-36 are VERY close, you can just keep your 1136 and change front chain ring.
> 
> 1136 x 32: 2.9 to 0.89
> 1342 x 32: 2.46 to 0.76
> 1136 X 30: 2.72 to 0.83


On a 29" bike. Roughly:

A 30 X 42 gives you 18.7 gear inches.
A 30 X 36 gives you 21.8gear inches.

A 32 X 42 gives you 20.0 gear inches.
A 32 X 36 gives you 23.4 gear inches.

If he wants the bail-out gear and does not use the 11T, what difference does it make? Is a 30X36 close to a 32X42? Sure, and most gears are similar to each other. Is a 32X 42 an easier gear than a 30X 36? Yes.

For disclosure, I am also running a 13X42 with a 30T front ring. Old and fat. Where I ride, we have no downhills that actually require pedaling. The only place I hit the 30X 13 is on the flats back to the car. At that point, I really don't miss the 11T. Actually, I am wondering, from a shifting perspective, if removing the 11T makes the whole system work better. My conversion shifts perfectly, almost no different than when I ran the stock 11-36 block. I wonder if the big gap is part of the reason people are complaining about the conversion....

Now, when I live in the UK and had a 15 mile road ride to the trail head, I would have died without a proper big ring...


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## lastoneleft (Jun 30, 2014)

Bike Whisperer said:


> I like many others did not like the 15t to 19t jump with my Wolf Tooth 42t installed. I looked at what gears I used and in all honesty I almost never use my 11t so I removed it and used a 12t lock ring (I had one sitting around) on the 13t cog.
> 
> So now I have 13-42t...missing the top end but the shifting is better and I like the 17t in there better.


I recommend to do the following, which worked for me:

I removed the 11 and 13 last 2 cogs from the xt 11-36 cassette. I had a 12t second cog from a 11-28 105 road cassette, and put that in the first position. Shifting ramp does not count, being in the first position. To have enough grip on the hub (the first cog is designed to slip a bit under the 2nd cog, as the hub dents are not starting right away at the edge) I had to remove the spacer provided by Oneup from behind the 42t. With this setup, you will definitelly need a 12t lockring otherwise you will not be able to tighten the cassette.

So with this setup, I have a 12-42 cassette, with perfect shifting, and still enough speed even on cross country decents with my 32T Sram x01 wide/narrow front ring. I had this setup through 2 races already, works flawlessly under heavy load. Further info: I have an x9 type 2 derallieur, with x9 shifter, and XT cranks. I cut the chain as short as possible, so the der. is stretched out max, as this helps to move the pulley away from the 42 cogs, helping shifting, and also to help not to touch the B screw at all.

On the other hand, I have ordered the RAD cage, as I have an XT mid cage der and Saint shifter combo waiting for conversion. I still try to make the 11-42 working (with a 16T shimano cog from an XT 11-32 10 speed cassette) as I will need the 11 later on for my marathon races with long steep descents.


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## rpmk104 (Oct 24, 2005)

Thanks for the help everyone, I was able to solve the problem by adding a washer between the hanger and the derailleur and also grinding away some of the material on the derailleur arm. 

Another question, for those of you which have replaced the 11t 1st cog with a 12t.... were you able to reuse the original lock ring or did you have to also buy a 12t lock ring? 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

Vespasianus said:


> If he wants the bail-out gear and does not use the 11T, what difference does it make? Is a 30X36 close to a 32X42? Sure, and most gears are similar to each other. Is a 32X 42 an easier gear than a 30X 36? Yes.


Not saying it is not but it seems like a bit of an expensive ordeal to just gain half-gear. The result is similar to go from 36 to 38/39 cog. If it was me I would instead get a 28 or 30 chain ring and keep a perfectly functioning (and lighter) 1136 ... a bit better would be to get a 12 and swap out 11 and 13 but still ...


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## Bike Whisperer (Aug 7, 2012)

Davide said:


> Kind of silly: 13-42 and 11-36 are VERY close, you can just keep your 1136 and change front chain ring.
> 
> 1136 x 32: 2.9 to 0.89
> 1342 x 32: 2.46 to 0.76
> 1136 X 30: 2.72 to 0.83


I'm slow with two artificial hips...already running a 30t up front.

I don't care what you've figured out on paper, I've ridden with 11-36 and found myself wanting lower. I rode with 11-42 and didn't like the gap from 15-19 and at the same time never found myself using the 11t.

13-42 works for *ME *


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

When I read this thread I can't help but think that what some people need is to just stick with 3x9 or 2x10 and then you have the gearing you need instead of a band aid fix.

That said, I picked up a 16t XT cog from Cambriabikes for $2 and filed the tab and clocked it to fit the other shift ramps. Shifts fine. No issues with backpedaling either with the 42t wolftooth and a Sram mid-cage derailleur.


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

rockman said:


> When I read this thread I can't help but think that what some people need is to just stick with 3x9 or 2x10 and then you have the gearing you need instead of a band aid fix.


I agree, I can see why dropping triple but I am not so sure why people are dropping dual for single. And in the future a dual with 1140 (or 1142 when a "real" cassette finally hits the market) will be VERY hard to beat ... a triple with 1140 can go to the Himalaia and back ..


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

Rockman, do you have a link to the 16T? Thanks


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Bike Whisperer said:


> I don't care what you've figured out on paper, I've ridden with 11-36 and found myself wanting lower. I rode with 11-42 and didn't like the gap from 15-19 and at the same time never found myself using the 11t.
> 
> 13-42 works for *ME *


Same here...for me its about the bailout gear. High gears aren't that important to me. The 42T is way more important than the 11T. Even if I got a 28T in the front...the 28x36 still not as low as my current 30x42 setup.

I guess thats what I get for being a roadie too. I like to spin. I don't like to slow grind myself to death up a hill.


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

UtahJohn said:


> Rockman, do you have a link to the 16T? Thanks


This was the link I posted in this thread back in April but it appears it is no longer available. http://www.cambriabike.com/Shimano-X...Silver-16T.asp


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

i got my 16t xt off ebay for ~$12


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## Ailuropoda (Dec 15, 2010)

rockman said:


> When I read this thread I can't help but think that what some people need is to just stick with 3x9 or 2x10 and then you have the gearing you need instead of a band aid fix...


I don't think it's a band aid fix. In fact, 1x10 drivetrains are something, like the Niner carbon fork, that I wanted for my whole life but didn't know until I tried them.

I've always wanted to clean up the drive train. 2x10 was a start but 1x10 is better. I had the One Up system and it worked flawlessly. I'm building a bike for a friend so I stripped it off for her bike and replaced it with the Wolf Tooth 42 tooth sprocket and it, too, works flawlessly with my Shadow XT plus.

Some people think the 1x10 conversions are kludgy but in my experience, the components work well enough to be forgotten about during a ride. Not even tempted to get another XX1 or XO1 system unless the prices come way, way down.

Ten gears are plenty. I run a Wolf Tooth 30T front ring and the only thing I have given up is a large chain ring high gear or two that I practically never used on the trails.

By the way, go with the Wolf Tooth. Both it and the One Up work perfectly but the Wolf Tooth machining looks better and the cog has a more substantial feel to it. Plus you can get it in cool anodized colors.

Made in the USA doesn't hurt, either.


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## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

Hard men telling others they don't know what should work for them. My least favorite part of the cycling community. 

Do your thing.


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

Mr.Quint said:


> Hard men telling others they don't know what should work for them. My least favorite part of the cycling community.
> 
> Do your thing.


I believe it's called discussion. Differences of opinion in a forum. Nothing hard about it.


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

So I want to go with a single chain ring on my Mukluk for weight and simplicity. I have a 36/22 up front and 11-34 out back currently. Does the 30t up front with 40 or 42 in back come close to my 22 and 34? I can't find a gear calculator that will factor in fat tires and or single chain ring. If someone has a link to a good one that would be awesome. If I could run a single chain ring and bashguard. I would be a very happy lad. I know I might have to replace derrailuer and cassette but that is no biggie. Has anyone tried the non type 2 X7 rear derrailuer with the GC? Is there anyway to add a 36 and the 40 or 42 to my Sram 950 cassette? If I am not gaining much going from 2x9 to 1x10 I probably won't mess with it now. If however it will give me the same or better low gear I will do it. For sand and snow the low gears are essential especially on hills with a fatbike loaded up. Thanks for any help.


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## AaGro (Mar 7, 2012)

Sheldon Brown: Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator

I didn't see any super-wide tires, but you can account for diameter. That said: for same-same set-up the only thing that really matters is gear ratio. So on your bike today (assuming a 170mm crank and 29" tires): 36-11 for high is 7.1, and 22-34 for low is 1.4. With a 30t 11-42 you get 5.9 for high and 1.5 for low. You loose almost nothing on the low gear side but 3-4 gears on the high end. You could go 28t and buy back your 1.4 but you loose a lot on the hight (5.5).


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

Installed my One Up 42T and included 16T cogs this morning. Absolutely no issues. I was running an Ebay 41T (very heavy) so the switch to this setup only required a slight cable tension adjustment. Shifts on and off both the 42 and 16 just as well as any other gear. Very pleased.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

^is that actual trail tested or good shifting on the stand, also what rd and cassette? looks to be both sram.


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

fishwrinkle said:


> ^is that actual trail tested or good shifting on the stand, also what rd and cassette? looks to be both sram.


Yes, trail tested. Sram PG-1050 and X9 standard mid cage.


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## phattruth (Apr 22, 2012)

I finally got my Wolftooth 42 setup with my XT cassette and a RF 32 NW up front on my Ibis Mojo SL. I'm running a non-clutch XT derailleur and it shifts incredibly well. I rode 12 miles on my local loop and it was flawless in the chunk up or down. I will likely replace the rear D at some point, but I'll run without the clutch as long as it works. Also, I've ridden the Sram 1x11 and I think this setup works just as good and for a lot le$$.


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## HOLLYWOOD33 (Jan 2, 2009)

Ok,

I trail tested my setup over the weekend.

OneUp 42T on a HG 81 11-36 cassette. Took out the 17 and used the supplied 16...

XT mid cage with clutch...

I also run a 30T Raceface NW... 

Absolutely zero issues!

B-screw in almost all the way, and a little cable adjustment...

I'm happy with the setup as it aided me in clearing two of my harder climbs with much less stress!


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## jnicosia (Aug 2, 2013)

Well I finally did the 40T conversion. I didn't want the 42T at this time but may do that after I test a few tough climbing courses on the 40T.

I Also used the 16T OneUp replacement cog for the 15T and the 17T , have to say its not as smooth as a shift as I thought it was going to be. The 40T shifts perfectly as well as all the other cogs on cassette except the 16T replacement . I will pull it back off to recheck the position since OneUp uses one cog for both SRAM and shimano. Other than that it was a very easy install. Chain lenth was fine as I deflated my rear shock and tested the chain tension.


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

My One Up 16T shifts flawlessly. If I remember right, I lined up the "S" dot with the previous cogs shift ramp on my SRAM cassette.


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## jnicosia (Aug 2, 2013)

dvn said:


> My One Up 16T shifts flawlessly. If I remember right, I lined up the "S" dot with the previous cogs shift ramp on my SRAM cassette.


Downshifting is fine , shifting up from 13T to 16T then 16T to 19T is a little lacking . It works but it's not as crisp as the SRAM cogs .


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

lol, its either sr or sh. so what s are you talking about? i found in between the sr and sh it worked at its best & that's nothing to brag about. this was also on a shimano drivetrain. i see, maybe you're trying to say that the sr has 1 dot stamped in the cog while the sh has 2?


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

jnicosia said:


> Downshifting is fine , shifting up from 13T to 16T then 16T to 19T is a little lacking . It works but it's not as crisp as the SRAM cogs .


I did the same One Up 40T/16T conversion (set up as per One Up instructions) and my only issue is when i shift from 16 to 19. Sometimes it's perfect but other times it just doesn't want to shift.


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## jnicosia (Aug 2, 2013)

950sm07 said:


> I did the same One Up 40T/16T conversion (set up as per One Up instructions) and my only issue is when i shift from 16 to 19. Sometimes it's perfect but other times it just doesn't want to shift.


Yes this is my exact issue ! I may pick up a cheap SRAM 850 cassette and use that 16T .


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Ditto. Same prob here. Still waiting for the WT 16t!


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

950sm07 said:


> Mine is an XT cassette and if the shifting won't improve I'll get a Shimano 16T.


Good luck finding one!


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

jnicosia said:


> Yes this is my exact issue ! I may pick up a cheap SRAM 850 cassette and use that 16T .


Mine is an XT cassette and if the shifting won't improve I'll get a Shimano 16T.


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

Hey there. Would this XT 11-36t (CS-M771 shimano cassette work in place of my sram 950? It is a bit cheaper than the sram 1050 cassette. I am wondering if it would be compatible with the x7 type 2 rear derrailuer? Might be a cheaper route for me to go since I will be just pulling it apart anyways. Get the 42t GC and the 16t from wolf tooth. Along with the 30t chain ring. I am trying to get to 1x in the cheapest easiest route. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## In2falling (Jan 1, 2005)

I just added Hope 40T-Rex to my 1x10 Sram X9 setup (PG-1070 cass, mid-type2 and raceface wide/narrow 30T), and it shifts and works perfectly.


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

Will a long cage work with the 40t cogs we have in the market including the absolute black cluster?


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

I use Medium Cage with a 42T, works great. Long Cage has even more capability, but I don't need that much range.


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## dab (Apr 27, 2006)

Okay so here is my setup, I found that the 42T was next impossible to get adjusted correctly at least to my liking. So I went to the 40T a lot less B tension and it shifts great. I also kept the 17T and remove the 11T, so I do not have that jump when shifting. I installed a 10sp XT 12 tooth cog and lock ring, so with the 30T and a 12-40cog set it has a good gear range for my type of ridding. I still have the 42T and was thinking about the Rad derailleur cage, but for now the setup is good for me.
2012 Med Intense Uzzi full XTR drive train.
GS986 derailleur
30T front Wolf Tooth chain-ring 12-40T cog set


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

bosbik said:


> Will a long cage work with the 40t cogs we have in the market including the absolute black cluster?


I use a long cage with my 40t and works great.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Long cages shouldn't have issues compared to shorter ones.


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

Thanks guys!


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## HOLLYWOOD33 (Jan 2, 2009)

Well, I stand corrected on the OneUp 16T cog... I found it to skip occasionally under heavy load... 

Ordered an XT 16T, so hopefully that will be better...

Will report back after some seat time with it...

Otherwise, no other issues with the 42T...


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

HOLLYWOOD33 said:


> Well, I stand corrected on the OneUp 16T cog... I found it to skip occasionally under heavy load...
> 
> Ordered an XT 16T, so hopefully that will be better...


I ordered up 3 of them when shop I knew that stocked them had them back in stock...they out again BTW. Anyway, using the OneUp RAD cage, you can't even tell where the 16T is. And, going from 36 to 42...not even a sound! OneUp did good w/ the RAD cage, so much so I'm questioning why I'd switch to the 1x11 and not just keep using the 1x10. I mean, the replacement parts, especially the cassette, would pay for the 1x10 in just two replacements, and that would include a new X01 crank arm set!


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

^how many miles do you have on it?


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

fishwrinkle said:


> ^how many miles do you have on it?


A total of about 20-25, w/ 2/5 of it was climbing. Dunno if you know a CO trail called Lenawee...rocky chundertastic high elevation plow fest. The WT DM NW 28T did its job fantastically also!

Just got back from a 9 miler w/ about 1100 ft vert and the shifting was still butta! I heard the shift up to the 42T today, but I think it was due to a dirtier chain from Sat. chunderfest.


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

TwoTone said:


> Good luck finding one!


rosebikes will have it available in a week for 4€, I can live with that.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

thx paully, good to know


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

Just got my One UP 40t in the mail today. Never came with a 16t cog lol.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

caRpetbomBer said:


> Just got my One UP 40t in the mail today. Never came with a 16t cog lol.


Score!


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Has anyone tried running Grip Shift on their SRAM with the 42T's?


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

I found a old 9 speed 16t cassette. Doesn't work to great. Gets stuck going up. Shifting down is fine. I emailed One Up about my missing 16t.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

caRpetbomBer said:


> I found a old 9 speed 16t cassette. Doesn't work to great. Gets stuck going up. Shifting down is fine. I emailed One Up about my missing 16t.


If you're using Shimano rear mech, buy a RAD cage and get them to ship it w/ that cog for free


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

Im using a Shimano Zee. Works very smooth up to the 40t One UP. Just skips going up onto the 16t sometimes. The first 2 high gears are acting up also. I wonder if its cause of the b screw being all the way in.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

Where can I just get a longer b screw? Got a WT 40 with no longer b screw


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

yeti575inCA said:


> Where can I just get a longer b screw? Got a WT 40 with no longer b screw


Have you tried it without it? My 40T works with the original b screw not even full in (xt shadow+)


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

I have the 42T on 2 bikes. On one I used a longer screw. On the other I just flipped the screw around to come in from the front instead of the rear. Works fine (but is harder to adjust). I pull the derailleur rearward with my left hand, while adjusting with the right hand. Works very well.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

16T WT cog presale
http://www.wolftoothcycling.com/products/16-tooth-cog


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I was under the impression that WT were to make individual cogs for Shimano and SRAM. By reading the instructions...it looks like one cog for both cassettes?

I think I'll wait till they hit actual users before I buy.


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## Gouda Cheez (Feb 18, 2013)

Pre-ordered that 16T to give it a whirl. $20 isn't bad enough for me to have someone else test it first. Need to go source a longer B screw for my Saint RD. Tried with the regular B screw and it was a no go.


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## HOLLYWOOD33 (Jan 2, 2009)

....


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## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

Why, what was the problem?


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

Crazy to hear of all these problems. Seems like mostly Shimano users. I have two 42T set-ups. One WT and one One-Up with their 16T cog and both work flawlessly. Absolutely no issues. I'm using mid-cage SRAM X-9 derailleurs with KMC chains and have done nothing more than b-screw and cable tension adjustments.


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## brmeyer135 (Mar 1, 2013)

HOLLYWOOD33 said:


> Well, I decided to go back to my original 2x10 setup.
> 
> I have a OneUp 42T (two rides) on it... With 16T...
> 
> ...


HOLLYWOOD33
Go to the OneUp site - they mention the Shimano part number to turn your SGS RD into a GS.


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

not a huge fan of the 42 because of the large gearing gap.

i'm using a sram cassette, xo long cage, hope 40 t-rex, wheels 13t lockring, and 30t mrp bling ring. absolute black also makes a 13t lockring as well, so there are definitely viable options to trying to make a 16t work.

that being said, i'm considering adding a one-up 42t to this setup for a little more low-end grunt.


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## HOLLYWOOD33 (Jan 2, 2009)

Thanks brmyer135, but I'm just going to stick with my 2x10...


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## Chris9702l (May 12, 2004)

brmeyer135 said:


> HOLLYWOOD33
> Go to the OneUp site - they mention the Shimano part number to turn your SGS RD into a GS.


Too bad they didn't make an inner plate for the RAD cage too. I ordered the RAD cage outer and then thought I bought the inner cage on ebay. I recieved both parts and went to work. I disassembled everything, got the RAD cage installed and then went to put the inner plate on. DOH, I then realized I bought another outer plate:madman: Unfortunately the RAD cage has caused a run on the inner plate and they are backordered until September:yikes:


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## brmeyer135 (Mar 1, 2013)

Chris9702l said:


> Too bad they didn't make an inner plate for the RAD cage too. I ordered the RAD cage outer and then thought I bought the inner cage on ebay. I recieved both parts and went to work. I disassembled everything, got the RAD cage installed and then went to put the inner plate on. DOH, I then realized I bought another outer plate:madman: Unfortunately the RAD cage has caused a run on the inner plate and they are backordered until September:yikes:


Good point, why don't they just offer the inside also?
Now, finding the inside...unless one wants to wait to Sept.


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

I got the inside weeks ago, still waiting for the rad cage itself though, despite pre-ordering. Does anyone actually have both halves yet? Ride impressions?


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## wreckingrob (Aug 24, 2007)

You cant go wrong really. I have a WolfTooth 32 single up front, and a OneUp 42 in the back. Perfect compatibility - zero issues.


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

wifey just rode Mt. St. Helens-Plains of Abraham-Smith Creek with the Wolftooth 42, Sram XO mid-cage R.D., and a 32T RF NW chainring. 20 miles and 4400' of climbing. I'm guessing half the ride was spent in the 42 cog. Multiple stream crossings and lots of abrasive pumice dust. No issues whatsoever.


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Chris9702l said:


> Unfortunately the RAD cage has caused a run on the inner plate and they are backordered until September


We originally decided against creating the inner plate due to the availability, low cost and interchangeability of various Shimano inner cages. We may reconsider if demand is high enough.

The Shimano part numbers are

Y5XC09000 (XTR)
Y5XC09100 (XT, SLX)
Y50H09000 (Deore)

NOTE: Any of the three part numbers above are functionally interchangeable however there may be material or small aesthetic differences.

I hope this helps,
- Team OneUp


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## murrdogg11 (Apr 4, 2010)

OneUp said:


> We originally decided against creating the inner plate due to the availability, low cost and interchangeability of various Shimano inner cages. We may reconsider if demand is high enough.
> 
> The Shimano part numbers are
> 
> ...


Yes, I am also having a hard time finding the inner alloy cage.
This should help though, I didn't redline they were interchangeable.


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

Well, I complained one day too early. I have the RAD cage, hopefully get a chance to install it before Saturdays ride.


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## foxpuppet (Jan 2, 2011)

my comp list - sram X9 type 2 medium cage
pg1070 11-36
oneup 42t and 16t
32t xx1 front
X0 10spd shifter
Kmc X10SL chain


For those with the oneup 42t or any brand i suppose I did the recommended wrap around the front ring and 42 bypassing the rear derailleur and then adding 4 links. I've dumped the air from my shock to see how the chain copes in 42 at full compression/bottom out. The chain is tight as in it won't really budge. Should I add a link? I know people say you won't ever have an issue as you won't be riding terrain hard enough while in the big ring, but I don't want to tear the bag outta my mech if something goes awry.

Bike is 2011 Sworks Stumpjumper FSR medium


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

foxpuppet said:


> my comp list - sram X9 type 2 medium cage
> pg1070 11-36
> oneup 42t and 16t
> 32t xx1 front
> ...


I would add a link just for the peace of mind but the chances of bottoming out while on the big ring are really small/none.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

foxpuppet said:


> my comp list - sram X9 type 2 medium cage
> pg1070 11-36
> oneup 42t and 16t
> 32t xx1 front
> ...


An easy setup is two extra links at the point of the suspension compression where it has the longest distance from the axle to the crank. On my bike its easy, full compression.

Do the 42 cogs need 4 extra links at full compression, or can they just use the standard 2?


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

I finally figured out what can cause the shifting problems with my OneUp 40/16T setup. I only have issue with the shifting from 16 to 19 as it doesn't want to pick it up 80% of the time.
I cleaned the cassette with the plastic cassette cleaner and I noticed that it was very lose between the 16-19T and I couldn't push it down between the 16-13T. It was very strange since there is no spacer on either side of the 16T. I took the cassette apart measured everything and it turned out that the 16T is not completely flat it has kind of dish shape and that's why the space is not the same on its sides. I will contact OneUp about it but I guess the real solution the Shimano 16T will be. The 40T is great but they could put a little more effort into the manufacturing of the 16T because it's kind of useless.


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## michael573114 (May 5, 2006)

rfxc said:


> Anyone with a Sram XG-1080 cassette do this conversion?


I just did this last night, using a Wolftooth 40t cog. Rather than swap the 12&14 for a 13 (which does seem like a decent idea), I just ditched the 11-tooth cog and used a 12-tooth lock ring from a SRAM PG-1070 cassette I had on my other set of wheels. This gives me 12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36-40. Shifting is absolutely perfect.

Also, I can confirm that the 40-tooth ring works just fine with a SRAM short-cage type-2 derailleur (X9 here), you just have to get the screw almost all the way out, and chain length is indeed pretty critical (KMC X10SL-DLC).


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## team_wee (Mar 26, 2006)

> I finally figured out what can cause the shifting problems with my OneUp 40/16T setup. I only have issue with the shifting from 16 to 19 as it doesn't want to pick it up 80% of the time.
> I cleaned the cassette with the plastic cassette cleaner and I noticed that it was very lose between the 16-19T and I couldn't push it down between the 16-13T. It was very strange since there is no spacer on either side of the 16T. I took the cassette apart measured everything and it turned out that the 16T is not completely flat it has kind of dish shape and that's why the space is not the same on its sides. I will contact OneUp about it but I guess the real solution the Shimano 16T will be. The 40T is great but they could put a little more effort into the manufacturing of the 16T because it's kind of useless.


I HATE hearing about this kind of thing. Where are these rings made? I hope mine is ok, I just got it yesterday. Hoping it's not a bad batch...


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

team_wee said:


> I HATE hearing about this kind of thing. Where are these rings made? I hope mine is ok, I just got it yesterday. Hoping it's not a bad batch...


Please post your experience with the 16T when you tried it.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

950sm07 said:


> Please post your experience with the 16T when you tried it.


I found and installed a true XT 10spd 16T cog. With a RAD cage mod, it shifts as though it was designed for it...completely smooth and invisible.

I have a 40 and a 42 setup. The 40 shifts a good deal faster than the 42, but the 42 isn't slow at all. It's just the B screw is a lot less screwed in on the 40 than the 42.


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## Lindahl (Aug 9, 2011)

Pau11y said:


> I found and installed a true XT 10spd 16T cog. With a RAD cage mod, it shifts as though it was designed for it...completely smooth and invisible.
> 
> I have a 40 and a 42 setup. The 40 shifts a good deal faster than the 42, but the 42 isn't slow at all. It's just the B screw is a lot less screwed in on the 40 than the 42.


How are the lower shifting gears? From what I've read, the biggest complaint about 40/42 and Shimano is that the lower gears (13, 15, etc.) tend to not shift very well because of how far the b-screw is in. Did you have this problem before adding the RAD cage? How is the rest of the shifting of the rear cassette after the RAD cage (aside from the 16T and 42T)?


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

Where did you find the 16T XT cog?



Pau11y said:


> I found and installed a true XT 10spd 16T cog. With a RAD cage mod, it shifts as though it was designed for it...completely smooth and invisible.
> 
> I have a 40 and a 42 setup. The 40 shifts a good deal faster than the 42, but the 42 isn't slow at all. It's just the B screw is a lot less screwed in on the 40 than the 42.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

kingchickenstrip said:


> Where did you find the 16T XT cog?


Aebike.com a while back... picked up 3 when their email notifier sent me the msg. Funny part, they raised the price on me while i was checking out by $3 each! Bastards! Also sitting on 4 XT 9spd 16T cog. They're thicker than the 10spd, but should still work just fine. It's just the shift ramps are at a diff location... no big.

I also had a email notifier set on ebikestop.com but didn't buy from them due to State sale taxes.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Lindahl said:


> How are the lower shifting gears? From what I've read, the biggest complaint about 40/42 and Shimano is that the lower gears (13, 15, etc.) tend to not shift very well because of how far the b-screw is in. Did you have this problem before adding the RAD cage? How is the rest of the shifting of the rear cassette after the RAD cage (aside from the 16T and 42T)?


Yeah I had slow small cog shifting prior to the RAD cage. With the RAD cage, the whole stack shifts like it was new...and I did this mod to a 1K miles stack and chain! 
This is with a 40T big cog mod to a XT stack, DA 7900 chain, and rd-m985 GS mech. SO smooth and precise!


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

950sm07 said:


> Please post your experience with the 16T when you tried it.


I have the OneUp 42 with their 16T and it shifts perfect. Weird to hear of all these issues.


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

dvn said:


> I have the OneUp 42 with their 16T and it shifts perfect. Weird to hear of all these issues.


Lucky you, probably your 16T was from a different batch. My only problem is the 16 to 19 shift and I suppose the difference in space on the two sides of the 16T is the reason. When I'll have time I will take a picture and see if it's visible in it.


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## foxpuppet (Jan 2, 2011)

Had my first ride on my oneup 42t/16t combo today on my 'a stumpjumper fsr, what an incredible setup. Running it on a sram pg1070 11-36 through an x9 type 2 with x0 shifter and shifting was smooth as. Front ring is an xx1 32t and I know for sure I'll be changing this to. Wolftooth 34t direct mount. 

I did have a little bit of a niggle about half way through the ride but a little barrel adjustment fixed it up. Shifting from the 13t to the 16t started to lag just a little. Could have been that it was also a new cable so maybe pulled a little bit of slack? But for the rest of the time it shifted up and down through the 16 with no hesitation. 

I found the 16/32 to actually roll really well together on the trail I was on. Once I move to the 34 I think I'll be spending a bit of time working between the 13 and 16 so I'll see how shifting goes over time. All in all very pleased. 
How good is spinning up firetrails or steeps in the 42!!! Well I suppose like having a granny but without the hassle


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## warimono (Nov 23, 2010)

I have a 42T on a SRAM cassette with a X7 derailleur and things have gotten wonky. It's always been a little finicky but mostly worked well. Something happened and it's even more wonky now. Really imprecise at the extreme ends. Would a X9 be a significant improvement? I realize the parallelograms are the same, but maybe tighter tolerances and smoother pivots?

Chain tension is good through the range. Not sure if something got bent. New cables and housing probably wouldn't hurt but the bike is only 3 months old.


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## mikewadley (Aug 19, 2012)

I have about 300 miles on my 40t/16t OneUp upgrade on SRAM cassette with X9 clutch derailleur with absolutely no issues so far. I love this combination and the 1+ pounds is saved me by going 1x10.


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

mikewadley, what crank/chainring combo are you running?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

warimono said:


> I have a 42T on a SRAM cassette with a X7 derailleur and things have gotten wonky. It's always been a little finicky but mostly worked well. Something happened and it's even more wonky now. Really imprecise at the extreme ends. Would a X9 be a significant improvement? I realize the parallelograms are the same, but maybe tighter tolerances and smoother pivots?
> 
> Chain tension is good through the range. Not sure if something got bent. New cables and housing probably wouldn't hurt but the bike is only 3 months old.


Derailleur hanger out of alignment?


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## mayonays (Oct 22, 2010)

Finally got a ride with my OneUp 40/16 setup, no noticeable difference in shifting from stock cassette. XT cassette, Zee short cage RD, X9 crankset with Wolf Tooth direct mount chainring.


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

I agree with NordieBoy. I had shifting problems with my X9 group and kept taking it back to my LBS to adjust it. It would never get better. I finally decided to try another LBS that one of the guys I ride with goes to. The tech there immediately showed me how the derailleur hanger was out of alignment in two axes. He straightened it out, and it's shifted perfectly since.


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## team_wee (Mar 26, 2006)

Rad cage, 16T and 42GC with Shimano XT clutch. Works perfect! That rad cage is brilliant, for me is a total game changer. For the price it can't be beat. If you're thinking about it, do it. One Up, good job!


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

team_wee said:


> Rad cage, 16T and 42GC with Shimano XT clutch. Works perfect! That rad cage is brilliant, for me is a total game changer. For the price it can't be beat. If you're thinking about it, do it. One Up, good job!


I have exactly the same setup and totally agree!


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## tgent13 (Oct 24, 2013)

Hey guys, I'm looking at going 1x10 from 2x10 on my '13 stumpjumper elite. From everything I've read it would be best to use a direct mount 32T (32 is right for me) chainring after taking the spider off the SRAM S2200 cranks.

http://www.amazon.com/Race-Direct-M...=Race+face+narrow+wide+direct+mount+32t+black

Then I would need a 42 tooth GC, probably wolf tooth or one up to replace the 17t cog, and could also do the 16t if needed.

OneUp Components US - 40/42T Sprocket + 16T

Am I missing anything? I have an xtr shadow plus long cage RD with clutch so I anticipate that it will work and not drop the chain. Anyone have experience with a similar setup?

Thanks


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

tgent13 said:


> Hey guys, I'm looking at going 1x10 from 2x10 on my '13 stumpjumper elite. From everything I've read it would be best to use a direct mount 32T (32 is right for me) chainring after taking the spider off the SRAM S2200 cranks.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Race-Direct-M...=Race+face+narrow+wide+direct+mount+32t+black
> 
> ...


The 16T oneup doesn't get very good reviews. You might like to wait for the reviews of the new WT 16T, the 1st batch is being shipped now.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I still don't know how the WT 16T differs from the OU 16T. Just by looking at the pictures...the shift ramps _look_ to be in the same spots relative to the aligning dots as the OU. WT even used the same method to indicate where to align the cog as OU. I was excited when WT announced that they were going to produce brand specific cogs...but kinda bummed when I saw that there are releasing one cog for both SRAM and Shimano.

I was going to jump onto the pre order...but decided to wait...I don't want to add another item to my unused parts bin.


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## tgent13 (Oct 24, 2013)

So reading more it seems the 16 is helpful, but there have been some issues with the ou 16. I don't think the race face direct mount will work either as it's only compatible with their own cranks. The wolf tooth looks good, I'm still trying to figure out if my Crank is long or short spindle without taking them apart... Anybody know?


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

With a long cage Shimano I highly recommend you get the OneUp RAD cage and Shimano medium cage inner plate too, makes all the difference to shift speed in the smaller cogs.



tgent13 said:


> Hey guys, I'm looking at going 1x10 from 2x10 on my '13 stumpjumper elite. From everything I've read it would be best to use a direct mount 32T (32 is right for me) chainring after taking the spider off the SRAM S2200 cranks.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Race-Direct-M...=Race+face+narrow+wide+direct+mount+32t+black
> 
> ...


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## tgent13 (Oct 24, 2013)

Can you put the rad cage on a long cage? I thought it was only compatible with med?


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

You can if you also get a Shimano medium cage inner plate, its a spare part, cheap and it doesn't make the RAD cage install any harder.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

RS VR6 said:


> I still don't know how the WT 16T differs from the OU 16T. Just by looking at the pictures...the shift ramps _look_ to be in the same spots relative to the aligning dots as the OU. WT even used the same method to indicate where to align the cog as OU. I was excited when WT announced that they were going to produce brand specific cogs...but kinda bummed when I saw that there are releasing one cog for both SRAM and Shimano.
> 
> I was going to jump onto the pre order...but decided to wait...I don't want to add another item to my unused parts bin.


I got my Wolftooth 16t cogs today. They are obviously very similar to the OneUp 16t, but once you get them both in front of you, there are some differences. I have an unused OU cog, and plenty of Shimano cogs, so I did a quick visual comparison. The first impression is that the WT cog looks better, more like the Shimano cog. The OU cog looks kind of rough, and is plated with something shiny, but kind of in a cheap looking way. The WT cog has an even mat finish that matches a stock cog. I think the WT finish better hides the fact that both OU and WT are machining their cogs, unlike the stamped(but very effectively so) construction of Shimano and Sram cogs. If you put the two cogs up against each other, the teeth are different too. The WT teeth are a closer match to the Shimano teeth, the OU teeth seem smaller with wider gaps, almost like it is slightly worn already. The ramps/gates/guide cuts are also similar but different, and the WT ones again look better and more like the Shimano ones. Installation looks to be identical between the two. And I did a quick micrometer check, the WT cog is closer to the exact thickness of the Shimano cog, the OU cog is very slightly thicker. So my first impression is that the Wolftooth 16t cog is nicer, it would be my choice if I walked into a bike shop and had to choose between them just from looking at them. I never used my OU cog, instead going with a Shimano cog I dug up, based on my gut feeling from looking at it back when I bought it. Since then I have read several complaints about how it shifts. I am going to give the WT cog a try this weekend, I don't think the Shimano 16t cog I am using is clocked perfectly to my cassette, so I will be interested to see if the WT cog improves what is already very good overall shifting, but with maybe a little hitch around the 16t. I am not being completely fair to the OU cog since I have never used it and don't plan to unless the WT cog is not an improvement. But, I am not going to use a cog I don't like the looks of just to try it if I have what appear to be better solutions available. I should be able to get some miles on the 16t this weekend. My drivetrain is otherwise XTR derailleur w/OU RAD cage, WT N/W 32t chainring, and WT 42t GC on an XT cassette.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Thanks for posting!

Mind snapping a pic after installing to see how its clocked relative to the other cogs?


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

VonFalkenhausen said:


> I got my Wolftooth 16t cogs today. They are obviously very similar to the OneUp 16t, but once you get them both in front of you, there are some differences. I have an unused OU cog, and plenty of Shimano cogs, so I did a quick visual comparison. The first impression is that the WT cog looks better, more like the Shimano cog. The OU cog looks kind of rough, and is plated with something shiny, but kind of in a cheap looking way. The WT cog has an even mat finish that matches a stock cog. I think the WT finish better hides the fact that both OU and WT are machining their cogs, unlike the stamped(but very effectively so) construction of Shimano and Sram cogs. If you put the two cogs up against each other, the teeth are different too. The WT teeth are a closer match to the Shimano teeth, the OU teeth seem smaller with wider gaps, almost like it is slightly worn already. The ramps/gates/guide cuts are also similar but different, and the WT ones again look better and more like the Shimano ones. Installation looks to be identical between the two. And I did a quick micrometer check, the WT cog is closer to the exact thickness of the Shimano cog, the OU cog is very slightly thicker. So my first impression is that the Wolftooth 16t cog is nicer, it would be my choice if I walked into a bike shop and had to choose between them just from looking at them. I never used my OU cog, instead going with a Shimano cog I dug up, based on my gut feeling from looking at it back when I bought it. Since then I have read several complaints about how it shifts. I am going to give the WT cog a try this weekend, I don't think the Shimano 16t cog I am using is clocked perfectly to my cassette, so I will be interested to see if the WT cog improves what is already very good overall shifting, but with maybe a little hitch around the 16t. I am not being completely fair to the OU cog since I have never used it and don't plan to unless the WT cog is not an improvement. But, I am not going to use a cog I don't like the looks of just to try it if I have what appear to be better solutions available. I should be able to get some miles on the 16t this weekend. My drivetrain is otherwise XTR derailleur w/OU RAD cage, WT N/W 32t chainring, and WT 42t GC on an XT cassette.


*One up has reworked their 16 tooth cog Ive been riding it for around 2 weeks now and its working much better than the first issue:thumbsup: I destroyed the first version within 4 rides I haven't been able to get this one to skip and its shifting perfect, 
they beefed up the new version quite a bit the teeth have more profile and the gaps are smaller now, 
I too just received my wolftooth 16th and it looks really good but I want to give this oneup a good work out before I do a ride comparison *


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## 08_Yukon hard tail (Sep 14, 2008)

I just finished installing UO 40t and it went well without a hitch. It shifts perfectly. I'm happy with UO 40t product. My setup: Sram 12-36 1070 casette and XO derailuer. 1x10 32 ring infront.
UO also comes with 16t sprocket that replace 15 and 17t plus 1 spacer.


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

I just ordered all the parts for my 2x10 to 1x10 conversion: Sram X01 crank (I happened to find a good deal on one of these  ), AbsoluteBlack 32t spiderless chainring, OneUp 42t/16t cog kit. This will be added to my X9 type 2 rear der. and shifter, Sram pg-1030 11-36 cassette (I'll probably upgrade that at some point to pg-1070). I'll take before and after photos and also will include ride impressions. I'm really stoked to get this kit installed!


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Just installed a Hope 40T-Rex cog last night.
11-36 older style XT cassette, RaceFace 32t NW ring, Zee FR dérailleur.

Added 2 complete links and maxed the B screw to take up the chain tension in top gear.

Seems the 40t is a fraction closer to the hub centre, as I had to adjust the low der screw and slacken the shifter cable a smidge.

Worked nicely for a couple of short test rides.

I think I'm going to like this setup.

Now to find a 16t to replace the 15&17...


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

These look pretty sweet.... albeit they're $40 - https://www.absoluteblack.cc/cogs.html


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

mikey217 said:


> These look pretty sweet.... albeit they're $40 - https://www.absoluteblack.cc/cogs.html


^ *Singlespeed cog *^


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

Rakuman said:


> ^ *Singlespeed cog *^


Indeed.... sorry about that!


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## xs101 (May 20, 2014)

So from what I understand upon reading the thread, the problems with 42-11 are:
- for Sram derailleurs, the transition from 42 to 36 is a bit problematic for some people
- for Shimano derailleurs, the higher 19-16-13-11 cogs were problematic due to chain wrap, but as of now when using the RAD cage with a Shimano medium cage /w clutch derailleur that problem is solved and everything works. Can you guys please comfirm ?


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## in the trees (Mar 24, 2005)

OR...another question. Which is now the better RD to use for these conversions - a SRAM, or a Shimano modified with a Rad Cage?


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

in the trees said:


> OR...another question. Which is now the better RD to use for these conversions - a SRAM, or a Shimano modified with a Rad Cage?


*All I can say since installed a Rad Cage on my XTR derailleur it now shifts as good as stock! :thumbsup:*


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

in the trees said:


> OR...another question. Which is now the better RD to use for these conversions - a SRAM, or a Shimano modified with a Rad Cage?


I've had no problems with my Sram RD and the 42T GC.
No need for longer screws or RAD fixes as needed for the Shimano RD, so IMHO I'd say that Sram is better in the stock form.


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## jeRdrgz (Mar 9, 2013)

Hello I just installed a race face nw 32T in my XT 2x crankset with a 42 WT GC. No problems so far. 
But I ordered a Race Face NW 30T .my question is if I need an adapter or something, I think the ring isn't big enough to avoid the chain from rubbing with the spider of the crankset.

Thank you


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## tgent13 (Oct 24, 2013)

Alright! so I've ordered the OneUp 42t GC with the 16t replacement, RAD Cage for my Shimano XTR SGS long Cage Derailleur, med cage XTR Inner Derailleur plate to go with the RAD Cage, and 32t Race Face Narrow Wide 104mm Chainring.

I went with the Race Face chainring (104mm bcd) because it's cheaper to simply do that ($30) and use the spider compared to getting a direct mount chainring, via wolftooth or others for my SRAM S2200 cranks (~$80), but I will probably do that in the future once I've proven this system and I'm due for a replacement chainring.

All the parts are ordered, and when I get them installed I'll have a drivetrain with:

SRAM S2200 Carbon Cranks (with spider) 
Race Face 32t Narrow Wide Chainring (104mm BCD) 
KMC X10 Chain 
SRAM PG-1050 11-36 Cog (original) 
OneUp 42t GC, 16t cog (replacing 15t and 17t originials) 
XTR SGS Rear Derailleur (original) 
OneUp RAD Cage and Shimano XTR Med Cage Inner Plate (PN: Y5XC09000) 

Once I get everything and put it on, I'll update how the XTR Derailleur works with the RAD Cage and otherwise SRAM Drivetrain


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## pastajet (May 26, 2006)

jeRdrgz said:


> Hello I just installed a race face nw 32T in my XT 2x crankset with a 42 WT GC. No problems so far.
> But I ordered a Race Face NW 30T .my question is if I need an adapter or something, I think the ring isn't big enough to avoid the chain from rubbing with the spider of the crankset.
> 
> Thank you


The Race Face NW 30T has a small offset built into it to prevent interference. I have one and it works fine. In fact, you directly thread the chainring bolts into it.


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## xs101 (May 20, 2014)

Nice *tgent13* ! let us know how your new setup works


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

tgent13 said:


> Alright! so I've ordered the OneUp 42t GC with the 16t replacement, RAD Cage for my Shimano XTR SGS long Cage Derailleur, med cage XTR Inner Derailleur plate to go with the RAD Cage, and 32t Race Face Narrow Wide 104mm Chainring.
> 
> I went with the Race Face chainring (104mm bcd) because it's cheaper to simply do that ($30) and use the spider compared to getting a direct mount chainring, via wolftooth or others for my SRAM S2200 cranks (~$80), but I will probably do that in the future once I've proven this system and I'm due for a replacement chainring.
> 
> ...


You should get a 16T from WT instead. Its a better product.


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## pastajet (May 26, 2006)

jazzanova said:


> You should get a 16T from WT instead. Its a better product.


Unfortunately, they're sold out currently. Personally I haven't had an issue with the OneUP 16T (with Shimano SLX cassette and SLX Plus derailleur) if the ramping is positioned properly. Of course, it works even better with the new RAD Cage.


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## jeRdrgz (Mar 9, 2013)

pastajet said:


> View attachment 915150
> 
> 
> The Race Face NW 30T has a small offset built into it to prevent interference. I have one and it works fine. In fact, you directly thread the chainring bolts into it.


thank you so much.
i need new bolts or the same I'm using?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Same bolts, unless you want a different colour.


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## Gouda Cheez (Feb 18, 2013)

Finally got around to installing my WT 40T and supporting 16T cog. Dialed it in and went out for a ride... what a nice little change. I feel like it's going to make me a little lazier though.


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## tgent13 (Oct 24, 2013)

jazzanova said:


> You should get a 16T from WT instead. Its a better product.


I would have except they're currently sold out and the 16t came with the oneup so I'll give the oneup setup a chance and report back! If it's really that bad I'll try out he woolftooth for sure.


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

08_Yukon hard tail said:


> I just finished installing UO 40t and it went well without a hitch. It shifts perfectly. I'm happy with UO 40t product. My setup: Sram 12-36 1070 casette and XO derailuer. 1x10 32 ring infront.
> UO also comes with 16t sprocket that replace 15 and 17t plus 1 spacer.
> View attachment 913851
> View attachment 913852
> View attachment 913853


is your RD a long cage?...thinking with going the same setup as yours...i have the exact same cassette but with an X7 longcage RD.


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## Thatshowiroll (Jan 30, 2009)

I installed a General Lee to my set up. 1X10, XT shifter, XT Shadow Plus Medium cage Der, XT 10spd cogset. The problem is shifting from 7th to 8th gear, which is, from the original cogset to the General Lee. It's a little hesitant to change gears at that point and you need to manipulate the shifter to make it shift up. That adds a little bit of shifting difficulty, and for me, defeats the purpose of the simplicity of a 1X10 drive train. 

...So, I bought a One Up Rad Cage, and that didn't help with the GL.
Just ordered a One Up 40t cog/16t sprocket and getting rid of the General Lee.


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

tgent13 said:


> I would have except they're currently sold out and the 16t came with the oneup so I'll give the oneup setup a chance and report back! If it's really that bad I'll try out he woolftooth for sure.


*In defense of Oneup Their first run of 16tooth Sucked, I destroyed mine in a couple of rides well they reworked it,, more beefy now with bigger teeth profile, I have been pushing it hard for a couple of weeks now and "NO Issue's to date". I think the bugs are worked out..*:thumbsup:


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

Hey guys,

So I got the AbsoluteBlack 32t chainring, X01 175mm crankset and OneUp 42t+16t cog kit. I installed everything per the instructions, but am having some shifting issues. My rear der and shifter are Sram x9 type2. As soon as I got everything on the bike, I adjusted the b tension screw to accept the larger cog on the cassette and checked the chain length. After some minor adjustments to the cable tension via the barrel adjuster on the shifter, I'm able to get the chain to shift from small to large cog like clockwork. However, on the way down the chain skips around between cogs on the 4 largest cogs, then shifts normally the rest of the way down. 

The only thing I can think of is maybe the chain is still too short/tight on the larger cogs?? In adjusting the length, I had it on the largest cog and chainring, not through the rear der, and went on the premise that I needed to add 2 links to that. Well, my chain as it already is looks like it fits that equation -- around large cog and chainring + 2 links. So I left it that way. I don't, in fact, have any additional chain links anyway. I've ordered some power links but they won't be here until next week. 

I'd also like to see what you all did for chain length. Reason being is that the OneUp site says looped around large cog and chainring + 2 links, and the AbsoluteBlack site says looped around large cog and chainring + 4 links. Which way did you all go?

Also, are any of you experienced enough with rear der adjustment to know if chain length is in fact my problem? Or maybe it's something else?

Thanks so much for your input! I'll post photos once I get everything cleaned up.

Mike


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I added 2 links to when going to a 40t rear.


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## foxpuppet (Jan 2, 2011)

mikey217 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> So I got the AbsoluteBlack 32t chainring, X01 175mm crankset and OneUp 42t+16t cog kit. I installed everything per the instructions, but am having some shifting issues. My rear der and shifter are Sram x9 type2. As soon as I got everything on the bike, I adjusted the b tension screw to accept the larger cog on the cassette and checked the chain length. After some minor adjustments to the cable tension via the barrel adjuster on the shifter, I'm able to get the chain to shift from small to large cog like clockwork. However, on the way down the chain skips around between cogs on the 4 largest cogs, then shifts normally the rest of the way down.
> 
> ...


Do you have a medium or long cage derailleur? 
You also may need to release your cable from the derailleur to get the right tuning, not just use the barrel adjuster. 
I was running the exact same setup and method for chain length and mine was perfect.

Xx1 32t
Sram x9 type 2 med
Pg1070 11-36
Oneup 42/16

Then I changed to a WT direct mount 34t up front and using the same chain length as 32t was a little tight on the chain under full compression in the 42t, but if I added a link it was a bit long when running in the 11t. I'm thinking to remove the extra link 
As the likelihood of bottoming out while climbing in the 42t is very remote.








in 34/42








in 34/11








in 32/42








in 32/11


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

NordieBoy said:


> I added 2 links to when going to a 40t rear.


I forgot to mention that I'm coming from a 2x10 setup. Is that what you had before?

Thanks


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

foxpuppet said:


> Do you have a medium or long cage derailleur?
> You also may need to release your cable from the derailleur to get the right tuning, not just use the barrel adjuster.
> I was running the exact same setup and method for chain length and mine was perfect.
> 
> ...


Ah, crap. I thought I had a medium cage. From looking at yours and finally finding the lengths for the difference size cages, I see that I have a long cage. Here is what mine looks like on the large and small cog:
















Just from comparing our photos, it looks like my chain is too damn short. What do you think?

Thanks,

Mike


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

mikey217 said:


> Just from comparing our photos, it looks like my chain is too damn short. What do you think?


Looks like adding 2 links would be about right. 4 may be too loose, but if you add 4 then you can always easily shorten it...


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

NordieBoy said:


> Looks like adding 2 links would be about right. 4 may be too loose, but if you add 4 then you can always easily shorten it...


Agreed... thanks for the confirmation! I won't get any additional links til next Tuesday, so that kinda sucks. At least it's real purdy to look at til then. Ha!








Before the upgrade... Sram X9 type 2 2x10 (I replaced the Sram chainrings with Race Face a few months back because I bashed the big ring on a rock and broke a couple of teeth off) And the cassette is the stock X5 PG-1030 11-36 unit.








After the upgrade: Sram X01 crankset, Absolute Black 32t chainring, OneUp 42t + 16t cog kit.









OneUp 42t + 16t (16t ring looks pretty beefy, btw)









AbsoluteBlack 32t chainring w/Sram X01 175mm crankset









Nice, roomy cockpit minus the front der shifter.


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## foxpuppet (Jan 2, 2011)

How did you like the change to the x0 carbon cranks? I went from a similar spec crankset but 3x to xx1 cranks and love the snappier response when putting the power down. I also changed from a 175 to 170 crank length.


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

foxpuppet said:


> How did you like the change to the x0 carbon cranks? I went from a similar spec crankset but 3x to xx1 cranks and love the snappier response when putting the power down. I also changed from a 175 to 170 crank length.


To be honest, I've only ridden up and down the street a few times so far, to test out the shifting. I must say, it does feel snappier, though! I can't wait to take it out in the dirt tomorrow! I'll have to stay off the 4 biggest cogs, though. Heh Luckily, where I'm going tomorrow isn't crazy hilly...

Thanks for sharing!

Mike


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

mikey217 said:


> OneUp site says looped around large cog and chainring + 2 links, and the AbsoluteBlack site says looped around large cog and chainring + 4 links. Which way did you all go?


sram also recommends 2 links when wrapped around large cog and chainring.

when i initially set up my krampus it was 36t front with 36t rear plus 2 links. then went to a 34t up front with a hope t-rex 40 rear. now at 30t front with 40t rear and haven't shortened the chain. the type two der makes that a little less vital, but i'll probably get around to it at some point.


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

foxpuppet said:


> How did you like the change to the x0 carbon cranks? I went from a similar spec crankset but 3x to xx1 cranks and love the snappier response when putting the power down. I also changed from a 175 to 170 crank length.


i've got the X0 cranks on a few of my bikes and love them. the bearings are smooooooth and the arms are STIFF. like you, i've also been making the move to 170's and have been loving it. which i'd done it sooner.


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

mikey217 said:


> Reason being is that the OneUp site says looped around large cog and chainring + 2 links, and the AbsoluteBlack site says looped around large cog and chainring + 4 links. Which way did you all go?
> Mike


Hey Mike - Just wanted to clarify. Per our site we have always recommended 4 links when using the big-big method. If the chain is too long in this config you can always shorten.

OneUp Components US - Instructions

OneUp


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

Will the 40t work with a long cage?


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## tgent13 (Oct 24, 2013)

Does anyone know where I can find the Shimano XT RD-M786-GS Inner Cage Plate (PN: Y5XC09100) to go with the RAD Cage?! My LBS said they couldn't order it because it wasn't in the Shimano catalog, and every single online store I've found is out of stock!

Last part I need to do the full OneUp 42t+16t...


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

OneUp said:


> Hey Mike - Just wanted to clarify. Per our site we have always recommended 4 links when using the big-big method. If the chain is too long in this config you can always shorten.
> 
> OneUp Components US - Instructions
> 
> OneUp


You're right... I got that backwards. AbsoluteBlack recommends adding 2 links. Sorry I got that wrong.

Mike


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

bosbik said:


> Will the 40t work with a long cage?


works with mine. it was the only type 2 10sp der in my parts bin so i just used it and figured i'd swap cages if needed. so far, no need.


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

monogod said:


> works with mine. it was the only type 2 10sp der in my parts bin so i just used it and figured i'd swap cages if needed. so far, no need.


Cool!...thanks!


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## 08_Yukon hard tail (Sep 14, 2008)

bosbik said:


> is your RD a long cage?...thinking with going the same setup as yours...i have the exact same cassette but with an X7 longcage RD.


Sram X7 long or medium should work fine.


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

Thanks!


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

I'm really disappointed. I can't get the shifting to work, no matter how much I try to adjust it. I have to give up and take it to the LBS. I wasn't able to find any extra links for my chain, so I had to buy a whole new chain. Still didn't fix the problem. The only thing I can think of is that the cogs are trying to ride in the little dents they made in the freehub body, which would now be a bit off with the addition of the large cog. I'll see if the LBS guys can get it working. If not, I guess I have to dump more money into a new freehub body... maybe steel this time instead of aluminum (it's a Stan's 3.0HD hub). With all the money I'm dumping into this project, I might as well have just gone ahead and picked up the Sram 1x11 drivetrain. :-(


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## abevern (Apr 21, 2009)

mikey217 said:


> I'm really disappointed. .... . With all the money I'm dumping into this project, I might as well have just gone ahead and picked up the Sram 1x11 drivetrain. :-(


Man, you must've dumped some serious coin.. have you priced a 1x11 setup lately?


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

abevern said:


> Man, you must've dumped some serious coin.. have you priced a 1x11 setup lately?


Ha! Yeah, I exaggerated a little bit. It feels like I'm dumping a lot in... 100 bucks here, 75 bucks there... I just want it to be done. I've been riding 2 or 3 times a week, and it's been nearly a week since my last ride now. I'm just getting antsy.

Anyone else with aluminum hub body have any issues? I checked on the Stan's steel hub bodies, but of course they're backordered. :nonod:


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

post a pic of freehub. mine is pretty nasty but still works.


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## pastajet (May 26, 2006)

Here was my first impressions with using the OneUP RAD cage: Grams Light Bikes - Mountain Bike and Gear Reviews, and News: Just In - OneOneUp Components Shimano RAD derailleur cage


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

Great review pastaget. Thanks.


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## Gouda Cheez (Feb 18, 2013)

A few rides in with my WT 40T and their prototype 16T cog to replace the 15 and 17. Everything is a-okay and shifts just like it did when I had a regular 11-36 cassette. The only changes I made beyond that was a new chain.

I'm running a Saint RD and shifter.


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

fishwrinkle said:


> post a pic of freehub. mine is pretty nasty but still works.


It's in the shop til Thursday... we'll see what they find. In the mean time, I'm going to try to hunt down a Stan's steel freehub body.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Second OU conversion. First has worked well enough.


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## tgent13 (Oct 24, 2013)

*One Up 2x10 to 1x10 Conversion*

ALRIGHT! Got my parts in and had a chance to throw them on the bike late last night.

Here's the setup, and it's an odd one but initial impressions so far are that it works very well:


Chainring: Race Face Narrow-Wide 32t, 104mm BCD 
Cranks: SRAM S-2200 
Bash-guard: Stock Specialized one (plan to remove once I have correctly sized chainring bolts) 
Chain: SRAM KMC X10 
Cassette: SRAM PG 1050 
GC: OneUp 42t 
16t OneUp cog (replacing 15t and 17t) 
Rear Derailleur: Shimano XTR Shadow Plus SGS (long cage) 

I also have the OneUp RAD Cage to be put onto the RD, but finding the GS inner plate was near impossible, I ended up backordering it from smartbikeparts.com, so until that piece gets in, it's a std XTR Long Cage RD.

I also ordered new Race Face chainring bolts, however they are FAR to long and maybe meant to be used with a bash-guard and a different spider, using my old bolts with the old bash-guard worked though. I plan to pick up some that fit from my LBS and removing the bash-guard

The chain probably needs 2 more links which I'll put on before I seriously ride it.

I tuned the RD and rode it around the block a few times and it shifts pretty much like stock which is fantastic. The 16t cog is unnoticeable, and there's sometimes a slight delay shifting to the 42t cog, but other than that is fantastic. The stock B-limit screw is also fine, but I didn't mess with it a whole lot to it since I'm adding links and putting the RAD Cage on still.

Overall, initial impressions are VERY good and I'll update when I get the chain the right length, the RAD Cage on, and the RD better tuned, and take it out for a real ride!

I'll also upload some better pics in the light when I get a chance.


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

tgent13 said:


> ALRIGHT! Got my parts in and had a chance to throw them on the bike late last night.


Lookin' good! Let us know how it rides, please!

Mike


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## neilether (Sep 10, 2007)

mikey217 said:


> Anyone else with aluminum hub body have any issues? I checked on the Stan's steel hub bodies, but of course they're backordered. :nonod:


I HATE aluminum freehub bodies. They save you about 2 snot rockets worth of weight, which is irrelevant for 99% of us. They notch up so bad that you can't get your cassette off. Then when you manage it, you have to file down the notches or you'll never get the cassette back on correctly.

I had this happen on an older Easton road hub and more recently on a Hope Pro II hub. Get the steel one and never look back!


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

neilether said:


> I HATE aluminum freehub bodies. They save you about 2 snot rockets worth of weight, which is irrelevant for 99% of us. They notch up so bad that you can't get your cassette off. Then when you manage it, you have to file down the notches or you'll never get the cassette back on correctly.
> 
> I had this happen on an older Easton road hub and more recently on a Hope Pro II hub. Get the steel one and never look back!


Done and done! Stan's finally got the steel freehub bodies in stock today, so I ordered one as soon as I got the email from the sales guy. I hope it gets here soon!

Thanks for your feedback! I was wondering if it was just me!

Mike


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

This is what mine looks like in less than a year and not so frequent riding. do you guys suggest getting the STEEL freehub? i'm thinking i might before things get worse but half of me also says to use it till its unusable,


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)




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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

crazy pic angle, but that rd looks like it's screaming forgiveness. how's the b-screw?


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

bapski said:


> This is what mine looks like in less than a year and not so frequent riding. do you guys suggest getting the STEEL freehub? i'm thinking i might before things get worse but half of me also says to use it till its unusable,


That's what the alloy freehub bodies look like after a while, but in my experience they are never unusable. It's definitely more effort getting the cassette off, but it always comes off. You take a small file and file it down a bit before putting a cassette on again and you're good to go. If you are buying a new freehub body anyway, then steel might be the way to go but it's not necessary.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

scottg said:


> That's what the alloy freehub bodies look like after a while, but in my experience they are never unusable. It's definitely more effort getting the cassette off, but it always comes off. You take a small file and file it down a bit before putting a cassette on again and you're good to go. If you are buying a new freehub body anyway, then steel might be the way to go but it's not necessary.


Im relieved! Thanks


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

You could try the flat staple trick. Never tried it myself but looks like a good idea.


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

bapski said:


> Im relieved! Thanks


That's good to hear! The bike shop called and they were able to get my shifting squared away. So I'll just hang onto this steel freehub until I need it.

I'll take the bike out tomorrow and let you all know how it rides.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

saw that staple method over at that kitty site. that's a lot of work to do for only a band aid fix, just buy the steel hub if you don't want to file.


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

bapski said:


> This is what mine looks like in less than a year and not so frequent riding. do you guys suggest getting the STEEL freehub? i'm thinking i might before things get worse but half of me also says to use it till its unusable,


Oh, I forgot to mention... that's pretty much what my freehub looks like, and I've only ridden a couple hundred miles on it. Unfortunately, I didn't know about the filing trick at the time and I just put the reconfigured cassette back on. I'm assuming that's why I was unable to adjust the shifting myself. I'll be interested to see what the guy at the bike shop did.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

mikey217 said:


> Oh, I forgot to mention... that's pretty much what my freehub looks like, and I've only ridden a couple hundred miles on it. Unfortunately, I didn't know about the filing trick at the time and I just put the reconfigured cassette back on. I'm assuming that's why I was unable to adjust the shifting myself. I'll be interested to see what the guy at the bike shop did.


Wait a minute! I seem to a have a problem getting my shifting near perfect. Are you suggesting the condition of my freehub could be the culprit?

Everything in my 11-42 conversion is brand new.....

Would be interested to know what your bike shop did...


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

bapski said:


> Wait a minute! I seem to a have a problem getting my shifting near perfect. Are you suggesting the condition of my freehub could be the culprit?
> 
> Everything in my 11-42 conversion is brand new.....
> 
> Would be interested to know what your bike shop did...


That's pure speculation on my part, but I can't think of another explanation for the odd behavior. I'll post back on here as soon as I get back from the shop.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

If you are worried about chipping, Shimano XT cassette has 6 big cogs on carriers. And with this mode, you keep only 3 of the 4 loose cogs, so even better.


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

CrozCountry said:


> If you are worried about chipping, Shimano XT cassette has 6 big cogs on carriers. And with this mode, you keep only 3 of the 4 loose cogs, so even better.


Holy crap! I can even get an XTR rear der for 160 bucks on Amazon! That's about $50 cheaper than the Sram XG-1080. Difference being the XTR has 6 titanium cogs and the 1080 has a 36t aluminum cog. WTF? Sounds like you get more for less with the XTR. Okay, I may have to go that route at some point... maybe when this freehub finally bites it. Or if the shifting is still not as crisp as it should be when I test it out tonight.


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## 08_Yukon hard tail (Sep 14, 2008)

Trail_Blazer said:


>


You need to add links to your chain. Rd position is way to stretch.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

08_Yukon hard tail said:


> You need to add links to you chain. Rd position is way to stretch.


That chain length was not shortened before that photo, but yes it did need to be modified.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)




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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

had the same 12T lock ring and my setup was running fine until it just started to just "spin" (bike not moving while pedalling) while i was on my 13T cog.

how long have you been using that lock-ring?


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

bapski said:


> Wait a minute! I seem to a have a problem getting my shifting near perfect. Are you suggesting the condition of my freehub could be the culprit?
> 
> Everything in my 11-42 conversion is brand new.....
> 
> Would be interested to know what your bike shop did...


My alloy freehub body is about 6 years old - with tons of miles and a number of cassettes and my 11-36 cassette shifts perfectly. I think the problem with getting perfect shifting lies in the imperfection of 11-42 conversions rather than in your freehub body. Judging by the discussions on here, there are no perfect conversions yet - I'm waiting to see evidence of one before I try it because my 2x10 works flawlessly but I would prefer an affordable wide range 1x10.

FYI, the only real issue with getting the cassette off of a grooved freehub body is in removing the cluster that are together on the alloy carrier - which is made easier if you file the exposed freehub body a bit after removing the individual cogs.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

Thanks for the input. Mire reason not to spend $75 right now....


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

scottg said:


> My alloy freehub body is about 6 years old - with tons of miles and a number of cassettes and my 11-36 cassette shifts perfectly. I think the problem with getting perfect shifting lies in the imperfection of 11-42 conversions rather than in your freehub body. Judging by the discussions on here, there are no perfect conversions yet - I'm waiting to see evidence of one before I try it because my 2x10 works flawlessly but I would prefer an affordable wide range 1x10.
> 
> FYI, the only real issue with getting the cassette off of a grooved freehub body is in removing the cluster that are together on the alloy carrier - which is made easier if you file the exposed freehub body a bit after removing the individual cogs.


Didn't some of the posters in this thread say their shifting is flawless with the new setup? The distance between cogs should be the same in either a 1x or 2x setup, so it shouldn't make a difference. The only reason I'm blaming the grooves in my freehub body is because the cogs are all shifted outboard due to the addition of the large 42t cog, so I'm wondering if they're sitting right on the edge of a groove now instead of right in the middle to the grooves. This suspicion is based on the fact that the shifting only gets wonky on the 4 largest cogs, which are fused together in pairs. I'm no engineer, though.

I'll be picking my bike up in a couple of hours. I'll be posting the results of the setup shortly after I take her out and abuse her.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

mikey217 said:


> Didn't some of the posters in this thread say their shifting is flawless with the new setup? The distance between cogs should be the same in either a 1x or 2x setup, so it shouldn't make a difference. The only reason I'm blaming the grooves in my freehub body is because the cogs are all shifted outboard due to the addition of the large 42t cog, so I'm wondering if they're sitting right on the edge of a groove now instead of right in the middle to the grooves. This suspicion is based on the fact that the shifting only gets wonky on the 4 largest cogs, which are fused together in pairs. I'm no engineer, though.
> 
> I'll be picking my bike up in a couple of hours. I'll be posting the results of the setup shortly after I take her out and abuse her.


Abuse her well please and give feedback ASAP.. Lol


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

bapski said:


> had the same 12T lock ring and my setup was running fine until it just started to just "spin" (bike not moving while pedalling) while i was on my 13T cog.
> 
> how long have you been using that lock-ring?


I have been using it for 2 months without issue.
I recently removed it though and went back to a conventional 2x10 drivetrain.

The red lock ring wasn't as strong feeling as the shimano, as if one was steel vs aluminum.

You can get a shimano lock ring for 12T, which should work better.
The 9 speed cassette that came on my bike had a 12T lockring so I considered using it.


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

mikey217 said:


> Didn't some of the posters in this thread say their shifting is flawless with the new setup? The distance between cogs should be the same in either a 1x or 2x setup, so it shouldn't make a difference. The only reason I'm blaming the grooves in my freehub body is because the cogs are all shifted outboard due to the addition of the large 42t cog, so I'm wondering if they're sitting right on the edge of a groove now instead of right in the middle to the grooves. This suspicion is based on the fact that the shifting only gets wonky on the 4 largest cogs, which are fused together in pairs. I'm no engineer, though.
> 
> I'll be picking my bike up in a couple of hours. I'll be posting the results of the setup shortly after I take her out and abuse her.


There wouldn't be 1300 posts in this thread if it was all that easy. No, there isn't any difference created by 1x vs 2x - it is the new cogs needed to make a wide enough range for 1x to be viable for me that keep me from getting it. The number of people with issues vastly outnumbers the number of people without issues with the conversions and so I don't have much faith yet. I keep watching for some consistently positive results.


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## neilether (Sep 10, 2007)

scottg said:


> The number of people with issues vastly outnumbers the number of people without issues with the conversions and so I don't have much faith yet. I keep watching for some consistently positive results.


I wonder if this is actually true. I'm not saying it is or it isn't, but the sample you are looking at is skewed very badly to one side. The vast majority of people that show up in forums like this are looking to address problems with their setup. Those happy campers that have it dialed tend not to post.


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

scottg said:


> There wouldn't be 1300 posts in this thread if it was all that easy. No, there isn't any difference created by 1x vs 2x - it is the new cogs needed to make a wide enough range for 1x to be viable for me that keep me from getting it. The number of people with issues vastly outnumbers the number of people without issues with the conversions and so I don't have much faith yet. I keep watching for some consistently positive results.


Count me as one person with no issues. I have been using it for a couple of months and things are pretty much close to perfect.

My big caveats are that I used everything new - new shifters (Shimano), new cables, new derailleur, new chain, new cassette, new 42T cog, new 30T front ring. I was in need of a new derailleur and rear cassette and thought I would give this a go. I also run the highly controversial 13-42 system.

For me, this mod took 60 minutes of my time and has made my ridding much more enjoyable.


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

Vespasianus said:


> Count me as one person with no issues. I have been using it for a couple of months and things are pretty much close to perfect.
> 
> My big caveats are that I used everything new - new shifters (Shimano), new cables, new derailleur, new chain, new cassette, new 42T cog, new 30T front ring. I was in need of a new derailleur and rear cassette and thought I would give this a go. I also run the highly controversial 13-42 system.
> 
> For me, this mod took 60 minutes of my time and has made my ridding much more enjoyable.


Thanks.....You might be right that the people posting are just the people with issues and that there are a ton of people with no issues out there who just ride their bikes and don't have to post on a forum because it all works. I do need an 11 tooth though - my appetite for the 42 tooth is not to give me a lower gear, but to give my cassette more range so I would need a system with the 16 tooth cog as well. I guess there just isn't enough certainty for me yet and the season is winding down so I am just watching for now.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

scottg said:


> There wouldn't be 1300 posts in this thread if it was all that easy. No, there isn't any difference created by 1x vs 2x - it is the new cogs needed to make a wide enough range for 1x to be viable for me that keep me from getting it. The number of people with issues vastly outnumbers the number of people without issues with the conversions and so I don't have much faith yet. I keep watching for some consistently positive results.


The whole conversion is extremely sensitive to proper setup. Chain needs to be exact right length, every 1/4 turn of every screw changes things. It requires a lot of fiddling.
I have had hard times to make it work to my liking. I have 42T & 16T WT Sram xo medium cage, xtr 11-36.
Doesn't matter what I do, the chain always drops down from 42 to 36 or lower while backpedaling in 42.
16T is not as flawless as I would like.
Mind me, I believe better performance can be achieved, I just lost my patience after 1h.
The best I ever had it was before I had the 16T when I just had the 15-19 gap. I am not saying the WT16T doesn't work, it certainly works better than miche cog. 
It's just a bit more finicky that I would like.
Also, the medium Sram xo is at the extreme stretch on 42, which might be effecting its life. It started its infamous knock after I installed the 42. I disassembled, cleaned and lubed it though, which has solved the knocking problem.
The dereilleur is also pretty far from the rest of the cogs, which means the shifting is not as crisp as it is with 11-36, where it sits much closer.
I am sure I will revisit the 11-42 in the future, I just need to make sure I have enough time and patience to play with it.


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## Rhialto (Oct 21, 2009)

I'm another who is very happy with the switch to 1x10, using a Hope 40t big cog, X9 type 2 RD and a Raceface 30t chainring. I regularly have to use the full range on the cassette, with a lot of steep climbing involved and shifting is excellent. In fact, I've been riding my other mtb recently that has a 2x9 drivetrain and the shifting isn't as good as the 1x10!


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

My shifting is flawless now, to reiterate. Setup:

XT cassette with 16T taken from a XT 11-34, reclocked by dremeling a new notch (did this before wolftooth or oneup 16T's were available).

XT shifter and long cage shadow+ mech, 2X cranks

KMC chain from 2X setup shortened by 2 links .

Hope alloy freehub body

Wolftooth 32t narrow wide 104BCD chainring

Wolftooth 42T GC

Oneup Rad cage with new Shimano med cage inner plate


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Hey Guys - Just wanted to chime in here. Issues with wide range cassettes are most commonly due to Shimano RD arcitecture. We think the biggest improvement in performance, consistency and ease of setup for Shimano systems is with the installation of the RAD cage. No matter who's wide range system you've chosen this upgrade is a night and day difference.

SRAM RD's are similarly offset to the RAD cage so there are fewer issues.

Here are some consistently positive impressions from various media outlets

PB - OneUp Components RAD Cage - Review - Pinkbike
Vital - OneUp Components RAD Cage - Reviews, Comparisons, Specs - Mountain Bike Rear Derailleurs - Vital MTB
Bikerumor - OneUp RAD Cage Hacks Shimano Rear Derailleurs to Better Fit Oversized Cogs
NSMB - OneUp Components Rad Cage - NSMB.com
Grams - Grams Light Bikes - Mountain Bike and Gear Reviews, and News: Just In - OneOneUp Components Shimano RAD derailleur cage


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

bapski said:


> Abuse her well please and give feedback ASAP.. Lol


Haha! I didn't get to abuse her tonight because the wife surprised me and cooked dinner. LOL So I'll have to take it out tomorrow. I did ride it up and down the street, though, and shifting was flawless. I can't wait to get her on the trails!

Oh, the issue was a bent derailleur hanger... :bluefrown:

I'll report back tomorrow after the abuse!


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

mikey217 said:


> Haha! I didn't get to abuse her tonight because the wife surprised me and cooked dinner. LOL So I'll have to take it out tomorrow. I did ride it up and down the street, though, and shifting was flawless. I can't wait to get her on the trails!
> 
> Oh, the issue was a bent derailleur hanger... :bluefrown:
> 
> I'll report back tomorrow after the abuse!


Am back to being clueless again. I know (i think) i do not have a bent hanger...

Only thing for left for me is to take it your LBS.. LOL

I did have my bud take a look at it and he has made adjustments...ill just have find time to pick it up...

Will still wait for your abuse report..


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I didn't have too many issues to begin with. Only thing for me was the shifting in the three small cogs. When I had my XT the throw in the shifter felt long and slow. I had to reverse my b-tension screw because the screw was chewing into the stop. The b-tension has to be cranked so far in that only half of the screw was on the stop. I was just not happy with the way the XT felt.

I switched to a SRAM X9 RD and X0 shifter...that was a last ditch effort before I went back to 2x. The SRAM worked alot better for me. The shifts feel more precise and the throws feel shorter. I don't have to hold down the shift lever to move the chain up from the three small cogs like I did with the XT.

I sold my XT stuff before the RAD cage became available. :/

Now if only a manufacturer will come out with a RD that is specifically made for a 40+ tooth cog. 

I borrowed my buddies 650 Stumpy with XX1 for a couple days...and it shifts glorious.


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## Thatshowiroll (Jan 30, 2009)

Anyone use the One up cog with a SLX cassette?
I just read the "special" instructions and it involves cutting the pins to seperate the cogs. Can someone share their experience? They say it's harder on the free hub body.


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## 08_Yukon hard tail (Sep 14, 2008)

Trail_Blazer said:


> That chain length was not shortened before that photo, but yes it did need to be modified.


That's look much better. Nice bike by the way!


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

40t hope on an slx cassette here. no problems have reared their head and i have hundreds of miles on the setup. i chose to grind the rivet heads instead of wasting a spacer cutting the pins.


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## Thatshowiroll (Jan 30, 2009)

fishwrinkle said:


> 40t hope on an slx cassette here. no problems have reared their head and i have hundreds of miles on the setup. i chose to grind the rivet heads instead of wasting a spacer cutting the pins.


Thanks, yeah, I'll just grind/drill them out to save the spacer.


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## airborn22 (Nov 22, 2010)

I have been experimenting with grinding the 11tooth cog back spacing down to the correct shift spacing... Out standing results! The only reason for me to do the 42t mod is the wide range cassette. I have done this on 5 different cassettes with same results, Great shifting all through the gears. with this mod you only have one larger jump in gears and its the one that you rarely use any way, on shimano the shift is 11-15 this is a much larger difference than the other gears but again you are rarely in it any way and the shifting is very easy. My set up is the sram 1080 cassette the gearing is even better for this type of mod, after i ground the back spacing to the correct hight my gearing is 11,14,16..... xo type2 with 1080 cassette shifting is butter, butter I tell you.
I went this rout after many attempts at adding the 16tooth and all the other band aid fixes to no avail. Grinding the 11t for proper shifting is the way to go. For me. I love 1X10 drive trains and was excited about the 42t add on, now with the 1080 cassette I may never go 11speed....


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

jazzanova said:


> The whole conversion is extremely sensitive to proper setup. Chain needs to be exact right length, every 1/4 turn of every screw changes things. It requires a lot of fiddling.
> I have had hard times to make it work to my liking. I have 42T & 16T WT Sram xo medium cage, xtr 11-36.
> *Doesn't matter what I do, the chain always drops down from 42 to 36 or lower while backpedaling in 42.*
> 16T is not as flawless as I would like.
> ...


That is a chain line issue, not the conversion itself. I was running a dishless WT WN 32 chainring on mine and had the same issues. Put the stock 32t GPX dished spider and ring back on, issue gone.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Trail_Blazer said:


> I have been using it for 2 months without issue.
> I recently removed it though and went back to a conventional 2x10 drivetrain.
> 
> The red lock ring wasn't as strong feeling as the shimano, as if one was steel vs aluminum.
> ...


Mind me asking why you went back?


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

I went back for two reasons.

1. 
The 42T setup is finicky and a lot of work for a low payoff to me.

2. 
The trails I ride have a type of terrain not well suited for a Single front chainring.

The trails and way thay I ride genuinely need a easy dump gear because there are many short flast downs followed by brief big climbs at the bottom of the hill.

This is the perfect time to dump from my big to small front rings (36T downhill gear to my 22T climbing gear).

This 22T front gear allows me to use a 11-36 cassette without needing a 40 or 42 in back. 
I tried a 24 but it wasnt small enough on the steepest areas I climb.

Result is a clean chainline and dependable drive train any one can tune easy.

Bonus that using a mid or short cage rear DR is great for avoiding rocks and branches sticks and works with my cassette easily.


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

airborn22 said:


> I went this rout after many attempts at adding the 16tooth and all the other band aid fixes to no avail. Grinding the 11t for proper shifting is the way to go. For me. I love 1X10 drive trains and was excited about the 42t add on, now with the 1080 cassette I may never go 11speed....


Can you please elaborate on this grinding that you do? I have been thinking of upgrading to the 1080 cassette, due to the light weight and the gearing, so I'm interested in how you improved this setup even more.

Thanks!


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## airborn22 (Nov 22, 2010)

mikey217 said:


> Can you please elaborate on this grinding that you do? I have been thinking of upgrading to the 1080 cassette, due to the light weight and the gearing, so I'm interested in how you improved this setup even more.
> 
> Thanks!


I use an air die grinder with 2" Roloc Disc Pad Holder and sand disc i hold it in my hand and take my time to grind the back of the 11t gear down to the proper spacing for shifting. I have found that .0450"-.0550" off the back or the same amount as the extra spacing that it inter locks with the 12t is what you need to take off. done this to 5 different cassettes both shimano and sram the guys that I have done this for love it. now bear in mind the 11t-15t jump is larger than normal but it still shifts great with proper spacing. I really like the 1080 cassette because taking the 12t out you have 11t-14t jump not bad at all. I like it a lot.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

I just removed the 11T from my XT 771 cassette and used all the standard gears 13-36 and added 42WT to the end. Seemed easy and the back shifts perfect with a NW Single front chainring.


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

Trail_Blazer said:


> I just removed the 11T from my XT 771 cassette and used all the standard gears 13-36 and added 42WT to the end. Seemed easy and the back shifts perfect with a NW Single front chainring.


I thought about doing that too! You have to use a different lock ring, though, don't you?


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

If you have a 12 gear you can use an 11 lock ring but if you have a 13 gear then you need a 12 lock ring. 
The lock ring can come a 8 speed or 9 speed cassette also


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Trail_Blazer said:


> I went back for two reasons.
> 
> 1.
> The 42T setup is finicky and a lot of work for a low payoff to me.
> ...


Reason I asked is I wonder if you were having problems because of the RD set up. From the picture you posted your top jockey wheel looked to be too far from the 42t cog. In all the research I did, for the Shadow plus RDs, you want it closer than it appears you did. I have mine at about 5mm and not having issues.

I get the dumping the front ring, my riding is pretty similar to yours, but my new frame doesn't fit a FD so I had no choice. You get used to it.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

I regret posting that photo forever. That was taken in the first moments of install and before the front chainrings were swapped and the chain length was shortened... etc etc.

Now, I always have to respond and confirm my setup was scessfull and worked but it took a lot of work for my bike to be adapted.
However, for my own reasons I stopped using that drive train.


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

Okay, so I finally got her out on the trail... at first, it was a little hit and miss when shifting to the larger cogs. But a little adjustment of the barrel adjuster squared that away. It was awesome! It was kinda bizarre because I didn't hear any chain slap at all... not once. My bike was very noisy before with the 2x10 config. There are a lot of deer where I ride and I really snuck up on 'em today. Ha! I almost ran over a little doe. They just didn't hear me coming. I'm glad I made the switch!

Oh, and I a LOT of long runs through rocky creekbeds and didn't drop the chain while pedaling forward or back pedaling... it just wouldn't budge from the chainring!

Here's what I have again:

Absolute Black 32t spiderless chainring
OneUp 42t + 16t cog kit
Sram 1091r chain
X9 shifter and type 2 rear der
Sram 1030 cassette
Sram X01 175mm crankset
Sram GXP pressfit bottom bracket

Here she is out on the trail:


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## voy78 (Jan 9, 2012)

No issues with back pedaling. Liked sram cassette because it gives even spacing with the 42/16t cogs:
2,3,3,3,3,3,4,4,6 (11,13,16,19,22,25,28,32,36,42 teeth cogs)
Tension screw can still go another 1.5mm. When working on the bike upside down the derailleur was locking when going from 32 to 42 (2 cogs at a time), but it was fine on the trail. Had to fine tune it with the barrel at the shifter when riding. Seems to be really sensitive, like mentioned before. The biggest issue I had was with locking the chain, I just couldn't lock the stupid quick link. Finally just used players and forced it in place. Didn't take out any links from the chain. Seems to be fine as is.

I was using 36-12t 9 speed cassette with a xt derailleur before the change (same chain ring and crank, 29" wheels), so additional gear on the low and high end were really welcome. I've got all the range I'll ever need now. I was bit afraid that going from shimano style shifter to sram will take some time getting used to, but I like it. Being able to shift up while braking is actually useful.

OneUp 42t + 16t cog
SRAM PG-1050 10s Cassette 11-36 2013
Sram X9 Type 2 Rear Der GREY MEDIUM 2013
SRAM X9 Rear 10 Speed Trigger Shifter 2013
SRAM PC 1051 10 Speed Chain 2013
Truvativ Stylo 1.1 GXP Crankset
Race Face Single Narrow Wide Chainring 30t


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## Thatshowiroll (Jan 30, 2009)

fishwrinkle said:


> 40t hope on an slx cassette here. no problems have reared their head and i have hundreds of miles on the setup. i chose to grind the rivet heads instead of wasting a spacer cutting the pins.


Thanks. I pushed the pins out with a center punch. It was surprisingly easy.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Just indexed a 16t from a 9 speed cassette and installed it on my 11-40 Hope + Zee setup. Worked OK in a short test ride. Will find out more tomorrow.


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## Thatshowiroll (Jan 30, 2009)

Thatshowiroll said:


> I installed a General Lee to my set up. 1X10, XT shifter, XT Shadow Plus Medium cage Der, XT 10spd cogset. The problem is shifting from 7th to 8th gear, which is, from the original cogset to the General Lee. It's a little hesitant to change gears at that point and you need to manipulate the shifter to make it shift up. That adds a little bit of shifting difficulty, and for me, defeats the purpose of the simplicity of a 1X10 drive train.
> 
> ...So, I bought a One Up Rad Cage, and that didn't help with the GL.
> Just ordered a One Up 40t cog/16t sprocket and getting rid of the General Lee.


Replaced the General Lee with 40t/16t One Up cogs, along with the Rad Cage, shifting is flawless after 3 very hard rides. I'm extremely happy with this product.


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## purdyboy (Nov 15, 2005)

G'day OneUp,
I have a standard 2x10 XT setup 11-36 which uses the "shadow" rear derailleur (not shadow +). I think it is part number RD780.
Will I need to purchase a complete new derailleur RD786 to use the Rad Cage, or can I source the correct length inner cage to suit the Rad Cage and keep the RD780?

Thankyou


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

purdyboy said:


> G'day OneUp,
> I have a standard 2x10 XT setup 11-36 which uses the "shadow" rear derailleur (not shadow +). I think it is part number RD780.
> Will I need to purchase a complete new derailleur RD786 to use the Rad Cage, or can I source the correct length inner cage to suit the Rad Cage and keep the RD780?


Hello Purdyboy

Unfortunately the RAD cage is only compatible with Shadow+ RDs.

As such using it would require the purchase of a new one. It is compatible all the way down to Deore if that helps. Alternatively, you could use your 780 and live with the somewhat slower 11-13-16 shifting or purchase a SRAM RD and shifter which will work similarly to a RAD equipped Shimano.

Thanks,
Jon @ OneUp


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

*Clicking sound from One Up 16T*

Has anyone experienced noise from their 16T cog? I have one on another bike and it's fine but this one makes a click or knock noise when under load at slow speeds. Like accelerating out of a corner. Shifting is perfect and it's not skipping as some others have mentioned. I wonder if it's just a machining issue and it will wear in?? Any thoughts?


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## Lindahl (Aug 9, 2011)

How do you know its not skipping?


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

Skipping, like when the chain slips forward several links before biting and the wheel doesn't turn for a moment?


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

Lindahl said:


> How do you know its not skipping?


Because I know what skipping feels like and this ain't it. Upon further inspection, the 16t cog seems to have a machining (quality control?) issue. It is the only cog on the cassette where if you hold the cassette and apply some backpedal pressure, you can see the chain visibly move back and forth on the teeth. My other bike with the 16t doesn't do this. I pulled it out and put the 17 back in. No more noise. I actually think the gearing with the 17 will suit this bike better anyway.


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## Crow (Feb 14, 2007)

Welp, after reading and reading, and yapping with trail fellas I decided to change my 2x9 trail/ freeride bike over to 1x10. It is a Yeti ASX with a Fox 36 and Revolution wheels. Heavy, beefy and my version of an XC bike. With nearly 40 lbs and all the climbing I do on my trails I figgered a little help and simplicity would be a benefit. Went with a 30T Race Face narrow/wide up front and the full One Up shenanigans; 16/42 cogs on a brand new XT 11-36, RAD cage mod on a brand new XT clutched mid cage and a brand new KMC chain. Took surprisingly little time to do the conversion while watching the IndyCar finale at Fontana last night. I set my high/low on the derailleur without even cabling up, just pushed it while pedaling in the stand. Eyeballed a nice B tension set, cabled up with a brand new XT shifter and snick snick snick, went through all the gears like a champ. Rode up and down the street and all was still happy. Slept on it, got up and charged my local trail; gut wrenching vomit mouth climb with ledges and loose rocks, fast flowing single track and near DH proportioned bomb through the canyon replete with big ol' jumps to tabletop and few drops. Absolutely flawless. I was expecting some tweaking, some complaints, maybe even some let downs. None of that. Followed One Up's directions on the install, tuned it and bam! Just saying, maybe some issues will rear their ugly head down the line, and I will certainly report back if they do, but as of now this was one of the simplest and most trouble free doodad fiddles I ever did to one of my 17+ bikes. And my low gear is even lower now, climbed like a boss. Do it.


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

*6 months later...*

I purchased my OneUp 42 tooth gear,new XT Shadow Plus long cage derailleur, and Race Face narrow wide chain ring about 6 months ago. Installed it and tried to adjust it but could not get it right. Took a trip to the LBS and they got it shifting good.

After the excitement of having a simplified drivetrain, and never having a chain fall off I did noticed a few things. I always had to think about pushing the shift lever a little more and holding it till a shift took place. I was at the LBS a couple times a month getting my derailleur adjusted. I could never get the derailleur adjusted right when I tried it.

I had the 1X10 setup for about 4 months and was in the middle of a race when the chain wedged itself in the derailleur cage damaging the derailleur. Abut that time the RAD cage came out but was sold out. I purchased a medium XT Shadow plus derailleur for a RAD cage I planned on purchasing when it was available. Road the bike with the medium cage derailleur and it would not stay on the 11 tooth cog. Found out a few teeth were bent causing it to jump to the next cog. New 11 tooth cog and no more problems jumping out of gear.

A little over a month ago I installed the RAD cage and had it adjusted. It worked a lot better! After a week it had to have it adjusted again. I had also ordered a new derailleur hanger after hearing from others how that could affect the shift quality.

I installed the derailleur hanger and was able to do a quick adjustment. I rode it the day before my next race and it was PERFECT! I could shift and not worry about it. I did the race the next day and did not have any problems. I was waiting for something to go wrong and NOTHING. It has been working perfectly. I am finally completely happy with this setup.


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

I have the 16 tooth One Up cog but I am scared to try it because everything it working so perfect. I guess if it doesn't work I can just take it back off.


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## bbcali (Feb 7, 2012)

*SLX cassette with 42T cog?*

did the conversion work with the SLX cassette?



da peach said:


> I've got an SLX cassette for a while, while I wait for my XT to show up.
> 
> Gonna swap out the 13t cog. Not 100% sure the cassette will go back together properly... Fingers crossed.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

^ don't know why peach was thinking the cluster wouldn't go back together properly, but i've been running an slx with no probs since early spring


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

has anyone run the one-up 42t in tandem with a hope t-rex 40? 

i just dropped the 11 from my cassette and used a wheels 13t lockring and like the spacing, but would like just a little more oomph in the bottom end. granted, i could just drop from a 30t chainring to a 28t, but what fun would that be?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

NordieBoy said:


> Just indexed a 16t from a 9 speed cassette and installed it on my 11-40 Hope + Zee setup. Worked OK in a short test ride. Will find out more tomorrow.


Nope. Crap shifting. Put the 15t back in and shifts properly again.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

NordieBoy said:


> Nope. Crap shifting. Put the 15t back in and shifts properly again.


You have to file the small notch and clock the 16t for it to work good. I had the same problem. Now its works real good.


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## polarflux (Jul 21, 2007)

I've been using a Hope 40t with my SRAM12-36 all summer and it has been working well for me. I have noticed, however, that the 40t cog is wearing a bit making me suspect that the metal is not as hard as it might be. Other than that it has been a great setup for me.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

caRpetbomBer said:


> You have to file the small notch and clock the 16t for it to work good. I had the same problem. Now its works real good.


Filed and clocked.
I think the issue was the 9 speed cog was thicker and stuffing up the spacing.


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## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

I've been using the Hope 40t for several months now and it has been flawless. Shifts every bit as well as stock. Up and down. 
I usually like the latest and greatest in bikes and components but honestly I have felt no desire to upgrade to 1x11. 
I think the 40t is a better option. 
If you could have 40 and 42 that would be great but if I have to pick one it's 40t any day. 
I recently demoed a bike that had the SRAM X01. No question it worked great but (a) I prefer the 40t over the 42t and (b) I thought it lost a bit of the SRAM feel. Noticeably lighter feel; Shimano fans would like it I think. 
All that said, riders of 29ers may prefer a 42t and that's where the 1x11 could shine as the upgrade oversized cogs seem to work better in 40t vs 42t.

My set up is:
XX1 crank, 32t
SRAM X0 Type 2 RD
SRAM X0 and X9 (I've used both; both great) 11-36 cassette
KMC gold 10-speed chain


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I got the 16T from Wolf Tooth today. Installed it.

Visually the WT has wider and thicker teeth compared to the OneUp. The shift ramps on the front look to be cut a bit deeper and in the same spot as the OU. The ramp on the back appears to be clocked a bit different. It installs the same way as the OU.

Just riding in front of my house it seems to shift a bit better than the OU. Getting into the 16 and into the 19 feels slightly smoother. The difference is small...but a difference I can feel. 

I read somewhere that OneUp has a Version 2 of their 16T...if thats true and you have that version...it may not be worth it to get the Wolf Tooth one. 

My setup:
XX1 crank
SRAM 1030 cassette
SRAM X9 RD
OneUp 42T
Wolf Tooth 16T


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

16T: I had a Oneup, now I have a Wolf Tooth. The Wolf Tooth works flawlessly. Nicely done!


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

UtahJohn said:


> 16T: I had a Oneup, now I have a Wolf Tooth. The Wolf Tooth works flawlessly. Nicely done!


Did you have problems with the 16T OnUp?


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## Andy13 (Nov 21, 2006)

Can you explain and/or show pics on how you filed a notch and "clocked" the 16t?
Thanks,
Andy


caRpetbomBer said:


> You have to file the small notch and clock the 16t for it to work good. I had the same problem. Now its works real good.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

knock the big tab down so you can spin the cog to whatever position you wish. laymans terms, make all the valleys the same width.


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## Gription (Jul 6, 2014)

*One up 16t 42t 32x11-42*

I just installed the one up 42 and 16t on a 1x10 and the 16t resists changing to the 19. The ramps don't appear to line up with the shimano cogs. Maybe it can be rotated but I'm thinking of just going back to my 15t. As my first 1 x drive train I'm really pleased with it. Might have to go to a 34 on the chain ring.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Gription said:


> I just installed the one up 42 and 16t on a 1x10 and the 16t resists changing to the 19. The ramps don't appear to line up with the shimano cogs. Maybe it can be rotated but I'm thinking of just going back to my 15t. As my first 1 x drive train I'm really pleased with it. Might have to go to a 34 on the chain ring.


The 16t has 2 settings, Sram and Shimano.


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## xs101 (May 20, 2014)

I just recieved the components needed for the 1x10 conversion, from a trek fuel ex that has 3x10 (shimano M552 crank). 

- Raceface Narrow Wide 32T 104BCD + Raceface M8 steel bolts
- Shimano XT Rear Derailleur w/ clutch M786 GS with OneUp RAD Cage
- Wolftooth 42T CG Cog for Shimano
- Shimano XT Cassette CS-M771 11-36 + 16T Shimano Cog

Will install and report back on the performance asap.


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## GTDanny (Sep 23, 2012)

Where did you find the shimano 16t?


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## xs101 (May 20, 2014)

At a german shop, bike-components.de


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## FIKO (Dec 11, 2006)

I have been browsing the forum to see how are you guys doing your set ups. After months of research, I decided to install a WT 40t on a shimano cassette (I do not think is an XT since I was not able to remove the 17/15 cog). The WT did not come with the 16t, and I did not want it anyway. I have ordered from Absolute black 13t lock ring. I don't use the 11t anyway.It is on a 2X10 Shimano XT (24-36). 

The hubs are DT 350's. The installation went smooth. The only issue I saw was that the 13t was barely flush with the hub. Maybe 2mm gap. The lock ring is a work of art. I had to crank it to the recommended 35lb/tq and the 13t went in with no issues or play. 

I used the M5 bolt on the RD. Adjusted the stop screws a bit. The shifting from 36-40 is smooth. No issues there. I had a new XT chain and it was too long. Took 3 links off. 

This weekend I will test it to see if it continues to shift flawlessly under load. 

I might go to a 1X10 in the future if this does not work as expected. the Big/Big combo is a bit rough, but it is a no/no anyway. 

Total cost-120 bucks. (chain included)


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## xs101 (May 20, 2014)

I just installed and tuned the derr quickly to see how it goes, played with the B tension to find a sweet spot, and what I can tell without having ridden the bike is that it shifts flawlessly, can't tell the difference from stock. Will see how it is when I have time to go for a ride.

What I figured is that you have to screw the B tension as much as possible, having enough space (between the upper pulley and the 42T cog) so that the upper pulley wheel doesn't grind against the big 42T cog, but also to have enough space so that the chain doesn't rub too much against the teeth of the 42T cog when shifting from 36 to 42.



xs101 said:


> I just recieved the components needed for the 1x10 conversion, from a trek fuel ex that has 3x10 (shimano M552 crank).
> 
> - Raceface Narrow Wide 32T 104BCD + Raceface M8 steel bolts
> - Shimano XT Rear Derailleur w/ clutch M786 GS with OneUp RAD Cage
> ...


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## hartzpad (Sep 21, 2010)

Here is my rant on OneUp:

2012 Stumpjumper FSR 29er Comp, SRAM X7 shifters and SRAM XO rear derailer. Couldn't get the OneUp 42T to shift well so I took it to my LBS. They put a longer chain on it and called me to say that I have a medium length cage and the OneUp 42T is not compatible with my derailer.

I email OneUp and get a response that my derailer will only work in 1x10 not my 2x10. They say that I will need a large cage rear derailer. The OneUp website does not state this. I'm definitely upset, now I'm out the OneUp kit, shop labor, new chain and now I have to buy a new cage as well.

What did I do wrong?


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## donkeyboy (Jun 18, 2007)

hartzpad said:


> What did I do wrong?


Did you read the compatibility page on the OneUp site? OneUp Components - Compatibility

This is addressed on that page:



> *Can I use the OneUp Adapter Sprocket on a 2X10 setup?*
> 
> Yes, typically you'll need a long cage rear derailleur to use this setup. You'll want to double check that rear derailleur capacity. For a SRAM RD you can get away with a 14T difference in front rings (like a 28/42) and for Shimano you can manage a 12T jump (like a 28/40).


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

hartzpad said:


> Here is my rant on OneUp:
> What did I do wrong?


The thing you did wrong was to assume you knew what you were doing when clearly you do not.

The best way for someone like you to win, is to involve the LBS in your decisions before making purchases.

This way they can professionally advise you on what will work best for your bike. Every bike has some differences between year models and brands that the internet will not advise you about.

I also learned this the hard way.
But take this lesson forward like I have and become closer with a good LBS.

The LBS rarely complain out loud about you buying on the internet if your paying their labor to put it together and you get their advice in advance so the install goes smoothly.


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## hartzpad (Sep 21, 2010)

Can I buy just a longer cage for my current derailer or do I have to buy a whole new derailer? What would it cost?


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

No you cant retrofit your medium with a long cage.

But a full replacement x7 or x9 rear long cage deraulire is inexpensive if you don't get the "clutch" model. You won't need the clutch anyway.


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## hartzpad (Sep 21, 2010)

Trail_Blazer said:


> No you cant retrofit your medium with a long cage.
> 
> But a full replacement x7 or x9 rear long cage deraulire is inexpensive if you don't get the "clutch" model. You won't need the clutch anyway.


So will this SRAM X9 (long cage) wor? It's only $87.









The X0 model (long cage) is $182. Go with the X9?


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

$79.98 & FREE SHIPPING for
 long cage on Amazon....



hartzpad said:


> So will this SRAM X9 (long cage) wor? It's only $87.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

Search for X9 type two on Amazon. It's only a few dollars more and better for 1x10 if, you ever decide to go that route.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

If "Type-2" is a *clutch type* it's definitely worth it, if only for the quiet ride... 



Bos said:


> Search for X9 type two on Amazon. It's only a few dollars more and better for 1x10 if, you ever decide to go that route.


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

patski said:


> If "Type-2" is a *clutch type* it's definitely worth it, if only for the quiet ride...


X1OOO! The only time I had a chain fall off was when I was clutchless. It is also really nice to not have all that chain noise.


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## hartzpad (Sep 21, 2010)

patski said:


> If "Type-2" is a *clutch type* it's definitely worth it, if only for the quiet ride...


Thank you, the one I ordered is a Type 2. I read One UP's compatibiity page several times, but how am I supposed to know that I had a medium cage? Wish it were more clear on their website. All will be well when this 42T kit actually works and shifts well.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

hartzpad said:


> Thank you, the one I ordered is a Type 2. I read One UP's compatibiity page several times, but how am I supposed to know that I had a medium cage? Wish it were more clear on their website. All will be well when this 42T kit actually works and shifts well.


The MFG isnt clairvoyant. 
You have to know what you need or ask someone informed like a LBS.
There are a million different parts for bikes just like cars and compatability matters with anything thats been engineered.

Mixing and matching sofa cussions has less complexity by far.. 
but your trying to modify your bike from the manufacturer's spec on ypur own because the internet told you it would be cooler.

You took the risk into your own hands when you trusted yourself to know the differance of the internet BS and what a real bike mechanic would know.

Maybe your gullable or foolhearty but its not the manufactorers job to put a giant idiot warning label on every part.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)




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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

It should also be added that if you aren't going to help the guy, STFU.

He's asking good questions to learn, jumping all over his @$$ isn't accomplishing anything but boosting your ego.


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

Yeah he prob has a point that one up et al should make this information clearer, they also don't heavily promote that you can convert a long cage to medium for use with the rad cage.

They are marketing direct to consumers, they need to make this clearer for aspiring home mechanics.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Trail_Blazer said:


> Mixing and matching sofa cussions has less complexity by far..
> but your trying to modify your bike from the manufacturer's spec on ypur own *because the internet *told you it would be cooler.
> 
> You took the risk into your own hands when you trusted yourself to know the differance of the internet BS and what a *real bike mechanic would know*.


I'm sure in some locales a LBS wrench might be familiar with these conversions, but they're nonexistent for most of us. He came to this thread that represents a large body know-how and experience for help. I can't think of a better place.



UtahJohn said:


> It should also be added that if you aren't going to help the guy, STFU.
> 
> He's asking good questions to learn, jumping all over his @$$ isn't accomplishing anything but boosting your ego.


Spot on.


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## retswen (May 13, 2014)

I installed my OneUp 40T conversion yesterday, changing over from an SLX 10 speed 11-36 which I had on before, paired with my Shimano Zee RD. I didn't want to hack my SLX cassette, so I bought a new SRAM PG-1030 cassette to pair with the OneUp 40T and 16T cogs. Installation was straightforward, but yesterday, I could only get it to either upshift perfectly, or downshift perfectly, but not both. I gave up after 2 hours of fiddling and came out today to ride it around the block and it was able to shift both ways decently. Not as crisp as my stock SLX cassette, but more than adequately in my estimation. I have yet to see how it will perform on the trail, but I will report back when I get the chance. I did not have to change chain length, or get a longer B screw. So far, I am very satisfied with how it all went down.


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## hartzpad (Sep 21, 2010)

I picked up my bike with the 42T installed on the medium cage and it works and shifts just fine on the small chainring, didn't have time to test it on the large chainring, is that where it will run into issues?


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## voy78 (Jan 9, 2012)

Hartzpad, I think the issue was usually the 16t cog.
I don't have a stand so when I was setting my bike up I had the bike upside down sitting on the floor. I might have screwed in the b tension screw more than it need for operation in upside up position. Unscrewing the b tension a bit helped with shifting on the smaller cogs. I shortened the chain from the original length by a set of links too (30t front ring).

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## davesupra (Sep 2, 2013)

retswen said:


> Installation was straightforward, but yesterday, I could only get it to either upshift perfectly, or downshift perfectly, but not both. I gave up after 2 hours of fiddling and came out today to ride it around the block and it was able to shift both ways decently.


I'm having a similar issue, I'm running a sram PG1070 with the WT 42t and 16t and a X9 der. I can get it to shift up flawlessly, or shift down flawlessly, but not both at the same time. You folks that are shifting up and dn equally well, how did you set up the stops on the der? Any tips/tricks? Thanks,


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## retswen (May 13, 2014)

davesupra said:


> I'm having a similar issue, I'm running a sram PG1070 with the WT 42t and 16t and a X9 der. I can get it to shift up flawlessly, or shift down flawlessly, but not both at the same time. You folks that are shifting up and dn equally well, how did you set up the stops on the der? Any tips/tricks? Thanks,


Since you have the 42T you have to first adjust the b screw while in the 42t cog to make sure the derailleur has adequate clearance. You might even need a longer b screw. The next thing I did was adjust the upper and lower limits which was very minor even going from a shimano to a SRAM cassette. Finally, I just messed around with the barrel adjuster to the point where I could up shift perfectly. I would rather have that work well because I could still downshift two gears at a time perfectly and down shift in the largest cluster perfectly as well.


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## xs101 (May 20, 2014)

I have a question for you guys about chain tension. 

On my setup, a Fuel EX 2011, running 11-42 with 32T up front, using the chain around the chainring and largest rear cog method, the chain is 106 links.

With 106+4 links it works ok, but with 106+2 links it has a slightly better chain wrap and shifts a tiny bit better, but the XT clutch rear derailleur with RadCage is stretched to 180 dergees. Is that ok, or is it more liable to break ?


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

Check your chain tension with no air in your shock and the suspension fully compressed.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

xs101 said:


> I have a question for you guys about chain tension.
> 
> On my setup, a Fuel EX 2011, running 11-42 with 32T up front, using the chain around the chainring and largest rear cog method, the chain is 106 links.
> 
> With 106+4 links it works ok, but with 106+2 links it has a slightly better chain wrap and shifts a tiny bit better, but the XT clutch rear derailleur with RadCage is stretched to 180 dergees. Is that ok, or is it more liable to break ?


If, by 180deg you mean straight down, no problem.
Pop ytour shock out and check at full travel as well.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

xs101 said:


> I have a question for you guys about chain tension.
> 
> On my setup, a Fuel EX 2011, running 11-42 with 32T up front, using the chain around the chainring and largest rear cog method, the chain is 106 links.
> 
> With 106+4 links it works ok, but with 106+2 links it has a slightly better chain wrap and shifts a tiny bit better, but the XT clutch rear derailleur with RadCage is stretched to 180 dergees. Is that ok, or is it more liable to break ?


Like said above, check your suspension at the point of compression that requires the longest chain. Normally thats the reference point for adding links.


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## xs101 (May 20, 2014)

Thanks for all your replys. I just let the air out of my shock, and lo and behold the crank moved away from the cassette, shortening the minimum chain length by 2 links. Therefor, for a 32T / 11-42T setup on a Fuel EX 2011 medium frame, correct chain length is 110 links.


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

xs101 said:


> ... crank moved away from the cassette, shortening the minimum chain length by 2 links...


If the crank moves away from the cassette (ie. chain growth as the suspension compresses), how can you then go a shorter chain?


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## xs101 (May 20, 2014)

Yea you're right I meant lengthening the minimum chain length by 2 links, because I needed 2 extra links.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

davesupra said:


> I'm having a similar issue, I'm running a sram PG1070 with the WT 42t and 16t and a 39 der. I can get it to shift up flawlessly, or shift down flawlessly, but not both at the same time. You folks that are shifting up and dn equally well, how did you set up the stops on the der? Any tips/tricks? Thanks,


I have something similar...but I'm using a 1030 cassette.

Mine will hang a bit when shifting from the 28 to the 25t. If I adjust it to smoothly shift into the 25...then it won't shift that smooth from the 13 into the 16.

Right now I have it adjusted for the 28t. I have to push a bit farther down on the lever to get it smoothly into the 16. It's not that bad once you get used to it.

I've used both the Wolf Tooth and OneUp 16t's. The WT shifts marginally better.


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

RS VR6 said:


> I have something similar...but I'm using a 1030 cassette.
> 
> Mine will hang a bit when shifting from the 28 to the 25t. If I adjust it to smoothly shift into the 25...then it won't shift that smooth from the 13 into the 16.
> 
> ...


Ditto here... same cassette and same compromise. But other than that, the shifting is super fast and super smooth!

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


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## mikey217 (Mar 23, 2014)

mikey217 said:


> Ditto here... same cassette and same compromise. But other than that, the shifting is super fast and super smooth!
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


Correction... I'm still using the OU 16t ring...

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


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## davesupra (Sep 2, 2013)

retswen said:


> Since you have the 42T you have to first adjust the b screw while in the 42t cog to make sure the derailleur has adequate clearance. You might even need a longer b screw. The next thing I did was adjust the upper and lower limits which was very minor even going from a shimano to a SRAM cassette. Finally, I just messed around with the barrel adjuster to the point where I could up shift perfectly. I would rather have that work well because I could still downshift two gears at a time perfectly and down shift in the largest cluster perfectly as well.


So far I have left mine adjusted so I can downshift flawlessly, and I have been upshifting 2 gears at a time. If I double upshift, it shifts fine. To me it's been more important to downshift, it sucks climbing a hill, needing to downshift, and have it hang in the gear that you are in. :-/


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## retswen (May 13, 2014)

davesupra said:


> So far I have left mine adjusted so I can downshift flawlessly, and I have been upshifting 2 gears at a time. If I double upshift, it shifts fine. To me it's been more important to downshift, it sucks climbing a hill, needing to downshift, and have it hang in the gear that you are in. :-/


That's funny because I have the opposite preference. I would rather double downshift on a climb than have to double upshift on the flats. Anyways, the more I ride the better it is shifting with each passing day. It now rarely gets caught between gears on shifts. I know that is not a scientific answer, but just riding it even when it wasn't perfectly dialed has kind of sorted it out for me. It's like voodoo magic or something.


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## xs101 (May 20, 2014)

Does anyone experience grinding when backpedaling while in the 11T Cog, as a result of the chain rubbing against the teeth of the 13T cog ? I'm using a shimano SLX chain.


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## xs101 (May 20, 2014)

Just went out for a ride, setup shifts flawlessly.

Because of the chainline (I have a shimano BB91-41 press fit BB), I can't place the chainring so that it aligns with the middle of the cassette, so when I am backpedaling in the 42T cog with Clutch On the chain falls into the 36T, but it's really no biggie. This does not happen with Clutch Off. Other than that when backpedaling in the 11T cog there is a slight grinding noise (chain is rubbing against the 13T cog). But those are really non-issues, the setup is awesome, works really fricking well ! really happy with it !!



xs101 said:


> I just recieved the components needed for the 1x10 conversion, from a trek fuel ex that has 3x10 (shimano M552 crank).
> 
> - Raceface Narrow Wide 32T 104BCD + Raceface M8 steel bolts
> - Shimano XT Rear Derailleur w/ clutch M786 GS with OneUp RAD Cage
> ...


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

You can tune the shimano clutch mechanism to apply less tension to the chain so it do longer falls to the 36 without being completely turned off.


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## retswen (May 13, 2014)

We have a new contender!

::::: Cycling E-space :::::

It even comes with a 16T. Anyone have one of these want to give some feedback?


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## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

Why would anybody pay full price for a Chinese copy?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

bcriverjunky said:


> Why would anybody pay full price for a Chinese copy?


To support their local manufacturers?


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## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

NordieBoy said:


> To support their local manufacturers?


? with shipping that came to 106.93. I just bought a Wolf Tooth at WesternBikeWorks for 76.49 with their 15% coupon.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

bcriverjunky said:


> ? with shipping that came to 106.93. I just bought a Wolf Tooth at WesternBikeWorks for 76.49 with their 15% coupon.


If it's their local manufacturer, postage wouldn't be so much of an issue.

$25 for the cheapest postage from WesternBikeWorks for me and they estimate 2 weeks to arrive.

We have a local company making narrow/wide chainrings, almost double the cost of a RaceFace.


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## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

Wish they show our location. Sure would help understanding some comments...


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## drmayer (Apr 19, 2007)

After looking at a gear chart of the typical cassette you end up with after the 42t addition (11-42) I didn't like the jumps the 16t replacing the 15 and 17 gives you. If you substitute the 17 and 19 with an 18t you end up with much better steps. In other words, the 15-18-21 sequence is less severe than the 13-16-19. 

I installed a 18t I had laying around and indeed the feel was much better. I had to drill the rivets of my slx cassette to remove the 17 and 19 but that was an easy task. 


If you're still not satisfied with the gaps the 16t leaves, go for the 18t.


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## bettes (May 27, 2004)

Just putting in my 0,02$ 

Installed the WT 42t cog on thursday along with a 16t dura-ace cog (with the part dremeled out and matched to my sram 1050 cassette) to match my 30t direct mount WT ring. Then went on an epic shortbike (2days, 115km and 2700m of climbing) with loads of short steep crawler climbs and it performed perfectly just like a stock setup would. Instant up and downshifts with touching the settings at all!

Total setup: 
30t direct mount WT front on sram 2200 crank
sram 1050 11-36 cassette (minus 15,17 and 1 spacer) 
shimano dura-ace 10spd 16t cog (with the big hump dremeled and turned to match the shift guides on the cassette)
sram 1071 chain
sram x9 type 2 medium cage 
sram x9 shifter


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## honkonbobo (Nov 18, 2006)

drmayer said:


> After looking at a gear chart of the typical cassette you end up with after the 42t addition (11-42) I didn't like the jumps the 16t replacing the 15 and 17 gives you. If you substitute the 17 and 19 with an 18t you end up with much better steps. In other words, the 15-18-21 sequence is less severe than the 13-16-19.
> 
> I installed a 18t I had laying around and indeed the feel was much better. I had to drill the rivets of my slx cassette to remove the 17 and 19 but that was an easy task.
> 
> If you're still not satisfied with the gaps the 16t leaves, go for the 18t.


+1 - i did exactly this (except with a sun race cassette so i didn't have to drill the rivets) with a shimano 18T and the gaps feel perfect. i did file the cog a little to improve the shift ramp clocking and now it shifts fine. i am never ever going back to a front derailleur.


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## xs101 (May 20, 2014)

Oh no, I also definitely don't ever want to hear of a front derr on a mountain bike, really have enough range with 32 x 11-42. Added weight, uselessness, cockpit clutter when also using a seatpost remote, and the old starting a climb and realizing you're in the wrong chainring, and the damn thing won't shift down.



honkonbobo said:


> +1 - i did exactly this (except with a sun race cassette so i didn't have to drill the rivets) with a shimano 18T and the gaps feel perfect. i did file the cog a little to improve the shift ramp clocking and now it shifts fine. i am never ever going back to a front derailleur.


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

Is it possible to use an 18T with a Shimano XT setup? I have an XT 18T cog but its riveted to a carrier...


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## ryanmj (Aug 19, 2014)

new to this thread and i'm sure this info is in here but maybe someone can answer this.
I have a 11-36 cassette and want to add the 42 tooth cog (going from 34 to 30 up front)
Will the shimano shadow plus medium cage work for this set up?


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

ryanmj said:


> new to this thread and i'm sure this info is in here but maybe someone can answer this.
> I have a 11-36 cassette and want to add the 42 tooth cog (going from 34 to 30 up front)
> Will the shimano shadow plus medium cage work for this set up?


Yes, but it will shift better if you also get a One Up RAD cage.


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## ryanmj (Aug 19, 2014)

pablobell said:


> Yes, but it will shift better if you also get a One Up RAD cage.


Ill look into it. Thanks


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## xs101 (May 20, 2014)

Before you get a shimano rear derrailleur make sure it's one of the following :
Deore (RD-M615 GS)
SLX (RD-M675 GS)
XT (RD-M786 GS)
XTR (RD-M985/RD-M986 GS)

I've tried the XT M786GS with the rad cage and 42T and shifting is bang on.



ryanmj said:


> Ill look into it. Thanks


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## ryanmj (Aug 19, 2014)

xs101 said:


> Before you get a shimano rear derrailleur make sure it's one of the following :
> Deore (RD-M615 GS)
> SLX (RD-M675 GS)
> XT (RD-M786 GS)
> ...


good deal thats the one I have.


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## CactusJackSlade (Apr 11, 2006)

Great thread.... looking to convert two of my bikes....


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

I have been on the One up rad cage and 42+16 cogs for about a week (100+ km) and it works very well with the xt cassette and xt derailleur. I would say that the shifting has been flawless, but is more sensitive to shifting under load than prior to the conversion. I am using a 32 tooth Blackspire ring up front and I also have a 36 tooth ring on my shimano double crankset. I am keeping two rings so that I get a better chainline for my more frequently used ring (the 32) and then I can just manually pull the chain to the larger ring if I am ever doing some long spin on a road......the bigger ring also acts as a bashguard.

I am very happy so far. I would recommend this to a rider who is good at avoiding mashing gears while shifting, but it isn't as good for shifting under load as my setup was before. 

It does have a bit of a "tinny" sound to it if it is misadjusted slightly - maybe because the big cog is not attached to the other big cogs.


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## randyg (Oct 13, 2004)

Anybody else having trouble with an XT M786 Shadow derailleur rubbing the GC? It's a 42t and the derailleur carriage (the arm where the cable attaches with the allen bolt) actually touches the GC as I shift down to the smaller cogs. I'm mystified as it appears the WT tech guys. 

(Before you ask, its a new derailleur, no bent hanger and longer B screw has zero effect on this issue.)


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

I have XTR and XT on 2 bikes (both with 42T WT rings), the XT had the same problem you are experiencing. Remove the XT Derailleur, and put a washer between the hanger and derailleur, and re-adjust the limit screws. It will clear and work fine.


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## randyg (Oct 13, 2004)

Why didn't I think of that?  Washer width?


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## xs101 (May 20, 2014)

It really depends on the derailleur hanger thickness, which varies from model to model. On a trek fuel ex for instance, I can have it working without it touching the 42T cog, however it is very close, about 2mm clearance.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

I ordered two WT pieces last night. A 40t for my Prime (30x40), and a 42t for my 9:zero:7 (30x42). I did the 40t cuz I want just a little more bailout gear, and 42 on the fatbike for when I am pushing through the snow. 

I also thought it would be fun to compare the shifting performance of the 40t compared to 42t. Both will be with X9 long cage non-type to RD's.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

scottg said:


> I have been on the One up rad cage and 42+16 cogs for about a week (100+ km) and it works very well with the xt cassette and xt derailleur. I would say that the shifting has been flawless, but is more sensitive to shifting under load than prior to the conversion. I am using a 32 tooth Blackspire ring up front and I also have a 36 tooth ring on my shimano double crankset. I am keeping two rings so that I get a better chainline for my more frequently used ring (the 32) and then I can just manually pull the chain to the larger ring if I am ever doing some long spin on a road......the bigger ring also acts as a bashguard.
> 
> I am very happy so far. I would recommend this to a rider who is good at avoiding mashing gears while shifting, but it isn't as good for shifting under load as my setup was before.
> 
> It does have a bit of a "tinny" sound to it if it is misadjusted slightly - maybe because the big cog is not attached to the other big cogs.


I'll be using almost this exact set up only I have a 32 RaceFace NW ring up front.

When you say more "sensitive to shifting under load" is this only when shifting from the 36 to 42 or in the higher gears as well?


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

HitmenOnlyInc said:


> I'll be using almost this exact set up only I have a 32 RaceFace NW ring up front.
> 
> When you say more "sensitive to shifting under load" is this only when shifting from the 36 to 42 or in the higher gears as well?


It is consistently a little more sensitive to shifting under load than it was before throughout the range......I don't think the 42 (or the 16) is noticeably different than any other gear. I basically feel like it seems to shift under load like I used to experience with SRAM - when I didn't shift under load as much as I have tended to do with my XT stuff. I don't mean to shift under load but I think it has become more of a habit because my XT setup accommodated it.

I'm very happy with my setup. As long as it continues to perform like this then I'm not changing anything anytime soon. The next test will be some real mud.


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## tomahawk84 (Apr 30, 2013)

Just wanted to chim in with my experience, I have been running a 32t wolftooth narrow wide chainring on my sram s1000 crank, and a wolftooth 40t in the back with XT 785 deraileur and 10spd cassette. I had to get a longer B tension screw to get clearance on the 40t but so far it's been running great.

My only issue is really heavy shifting xtr shifter is handling the load but it is hard as hell to shift. 

2013 Cannondale trigger 29er
s1000 crank 104 bcd wolf tooth 32t
40t rear with XT cassette
XT SGS 785
kmc x10sl chain
xtr shifter


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

tomahawk84 said:


> Just wanted to chim in with my experience, I have been running a 32t wolftooth narrow wide chainring on my sram s1000 crank, and a wolftooth 40t in the back with XT 785 deraileur and 10spd cassette. I had to get a longer B tension screw to get clearance on the 40t but so far it's been running great.
> 
> My only issue is really heavy shifting xtr shifter is handling the load but it is hard as hell to shift.
> 
> ...


Maybe it's time to replace the cable? I just did mine and while i didn't really notice when the shifting became harder because the change was gradual but with the new cable it's night and day. ?


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## tomahawk84 (Apr 30, 2013)

950sm07 said:


> Maybe it's time to replace the cable? I just did mine and while i didn't really notice when the shifting became harder because the change was gradual but with the new cable it's night and day. 


Yeah this is with a new cable, I just checked all the housing and adjusted the routing, the trigger has a wierd shitty cable routing system that uses clamps to hold it in place and full length housing. After playing around a little and loosening the cables i was able to improve the feel 10 fold... it's been a while since i had to change a cable since i run closed systems.

Thanks for the reply!


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Anyone using a Zee shifter? I just picked up one cheap rather than the more expensive XT. Problems?


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

The Zee shifter works fine.
Saint too.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Thanks, I thought so. How is the shifting compared to XT?


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

HitmenOnlyInc said:


> Thanks, I thought so. How is the shifting compared to XT?


Zee is between SLX and XT while Saint feels like XTR.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

Thanks to all the advice on this thread. Built up my son a trail bikes with a 1x10. This is the configuration I went with based on the info on this thread. Some parts new and some from the parts bin

Used
X9 triger shifter
X9 type 2 long cage
X0 cranks w/o spider

New
WT chainring
WT Cog
Shimano XT cassette 
Sram chain
16T cog (in the mail)

This was surprisingly easy to set up and shifts fantastic!

Very close to the much more expensive XX1 on my bike.

Thanks again!


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

I still have a new 16t cog off an XT cassette. I posted it up pages ago to see if anyone was interested in it and it seems like everyone that PM'd me lost interest..


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## tomahawk84 (Apr 30, 2013)

Xt 10spd 16t? I'll take it.


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> I still have a new 16t cog off an XT cassette. I posted it up pages ago to see if anyone was interested in it and it seems like everyone that PM'd me lost interest..


Do you have a part # for it?


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## tomahawk84 (Apr 30, 2013)




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## randyg (Oct 13, 2004)

UtahJohn said:


> I have XTR and XT on 2 bikes (both with 42T WT rings), the XT had the same problem you are experiencing. Remove the XT Derailleur, and put a washer between the hanger and derailleur, and re-adjust the limit screws. It will clear and work fine.


The shim worked however I had to grind off a bit of the inner derailleur cage in order for it not to touch the cog as it carried the chain from the 36t to the 42t, fyi. Have to say that red GC looks killer!


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Just swapped in a WT 40t with existing X9 Long Cage (non type 2) and 30t RF NW. Shifts in the stand just fine, and I have TONS of b-screw left for adjustment.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Anybody want to get rid of their SRAM 15T? I cannot for the life of me find mine.


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## ryanmj (Aug 19, 2014)

With out reading all 1500 posts is there a general consensus on if the wolftooth or 1up is better? 40 or 42 tooth?


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

........or hope? hmmmm


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

*I had them both they work equally as good as each other but I prefer oneup for my 40 tooth because I can switch it between from sram or shimano, now the 16 tooth I prefer wolftooth because it seems to shift a hair faster then the oneup. for the money the oneup is a much better value because they include the 16 for free ....*


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

Rakuman said:


> *I had them both they work equally as good as each other but I prefer oneup for my 40 tooth because I can switch it between from sram or shimano, now the 16 tooth I prefer wolftooth because it seems to shift a hair faster then the oneup. for the money the oneup is a much better value because they include the 16 for free ....*


Ditto!


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

I loved the WT 42 and I kept the standard gears in my cassette but dropped the 11T.
Worked great with a little tweaking of b screw.


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## Malvoe1 (Jun 2, 2012)

I did the full conversion on a 2013 Turner Burner. WT 42T cog, WT 30T Chainring, WT chainring screws, WT 16T cog, and Oneup RAD cage on Shimano XT derailleur. Shifted great with no adjustment of B screw. Took it to Moab this past weekend and it performed like a champ. Great shifts, no chain drops, and loved not having to worry about hitting the front shifter rather than the dropper (which I used extensively). If you have a 2 x 10 setup, I highly recommend making this change. I am a definite convert.

Thanks to all the early adopters and companies who figured things out and made this such an easy conversion.


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

*WT 16t*

I had some issues with the One Up 16t cog so I have been waiting for the WT to become available. Was finally able to order a WT 16t cog after I received an email they were back in stock on the 27th. Checked their website today and they were back out of stock :eekster:


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## retswen (May 13, 2014)

Just swapped my cassette over to a Giant Trance. It shifts perfectly with the stock Deore Shadow Plus rear derailleur.


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## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

I just join the club. Wolftooth 42&16 in the rear. Raceface 30 in the front. I also went with the OneUp Rad Cage. Shifts perfect!


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## LB412 (Nov 28, 2012)

My chain has started to slip in 17 and down position. Suggestions on how to correct/repair?


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

LB412 said:


> My chain has started to slip in 17 and down position. Suggestions on how to correct/repair?


Cassette and/or chain may be worn out. Have you checked your chain using a chain gauge?


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

LB412 said:


> My chain has started to slip in 17 and down position. Suggestions on how to correct/repair?


What derailleur are you using?


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

I setup RF NW 30 and WT 42t with brand new 2014 Sram X9 Type 2 Medcage RD. I really found chain length to be one of the top things that needs to be dialed in prior to worrying too much about shifting performance. 

Once I knew the chain was setup correctly, I fine tuned the limit screws and b-tension. Took it out for a nice muddy, wet, rolling hill type ride and it worked out PERFECT!! Quite as a church mouse too.


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## wolfbeast (Sep 11, 2006)

Ordered One-Up 40t and 16t. Got here in 3 days. Installed in 15 minutesand added two links of chain . Rode down street and then adjusted cable barely. Then rode new trail and cleared stuff I usually walked. Plenty of b-screw left. 

Thumbs-Up One-Up.


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

wolfbeast said:


> Ordered One-Up 40t and 16t. Got here in 3 days. Installed in 15 minutesand added two links of chain . Rode down street and then adjusted cable barely. Then rode new trail and cleared stuff I usually walked. Plenty of b-screw left.
> 
> Thumbs-Up One-Up.


Thanks for the props Wolfbeast. Enjoy your setup!

Jon @ OneUp


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

wolfbeast said:


> Ordered One-Up 40t and 16t. Got here in 3 days. Installed in 15 minutesand added two links of chain . Rode down street and then adjusted cable barely. Then rode new trail and cleared stuff I usually walked. Plenty of b-screw left.
> 
> Thumbs-Up One-Up.


Shimano or SRAM derailleur?


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## tomahawk84 (Apr 30, 2013)

Running the direct mount wolf tooth 30t in the front, with 40t in the back, I just installed a new cassette and chain, great performance and shifting. I did have to install a longer tension screw. I upgraded my crank to my Hollowgram from my 08 scalpel, The direct mount ring improved my chainline, and the 30T allows me to use more of my cassette than the 32, I had a much more enjoyable ride with this gearing.


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

*My 1x10*

Just finished a carbon bike build with a 1x10 setup using:

XT cassette
XT derailleur 
One Up 42t cog
One Up RAD cage
Wolf Tooth 16t cog
Race Face Next SL crank with 32t NW chain ring.

First ride after a quick adjustment and it worked PERFECT!!

I am also using the same setup on my Giant XTC hardtail with great results.


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## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Just ordered a One-up 42+16 for a Sram X9 Setup. Going on a Kona Process 111, can't wait. Is the general consensus that the 42t works better woth the Sram RDs?
I will report back


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## coot271 (Sep 15, 2010)

OK, been doing a little research. I want to go 1x10 with the 40 tooth cog and 30 tooth NW chainring, but, I have a Shimmy SLX 11-36 cogset......allegedly, the 17 tooth cog spacer is non-removable. Will I have to ditch the SLX and upgrade to XT or is there another solution??


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## FIKO (Dec 11, 2006)

Dump the 11t and get a lock ring from absolute black. It is made to replace the 11t. I'm worked for me. I am on a 2x10


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## coot271 (Sep 15, 2010)

FIKO said:


> Dump the 11t and get a lock ring from absolute black. It is made to replace the 11t. I'm worked for me. I am on a 2x10


Thnx FIKO. Looks like 140 bucks for the conversion, but they have rider weight limits.....under 200lbs...I'm just over that number...oh well, it was a thought.


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## FIKO (Dec 11, 2006)

18.00 on the website for the 13t locking. I did not get the conversion, only the WT 40t and the 13t locking.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

coot just grind the pins on the slx cassette, it's what i did and no probs. you probably will want the 11 as i tried it and ended up going back.


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

coot271 said:


> OK, been doing a little research. I want to go 1x10 with the 40 tooth cog and 30 tooth NW chainring, but, I have a Shimmy SLX 11-36 cogset......allegedly, the 17 tooth cog spacer is non-removable. Will I have to ditch the SLX and upgrade to XT or is there another solution??


You can drill or saw the pins to separate the SLX cassette. Method and further info is shown here:

OneUp Components US - SLX HG-81 and XG-1080 Cassette Special Instructions

[email protected]


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## retswen (May 13, 2014)

You can also get a SRAM PG-1030 cassette instead because it comes with the 15t and 17t detached from the carrier. Take this route if you don't want to hack your cassette and if you don't want to pay for an XT cassette. It works just fine with my Shimano RD and One Up conversion.



coot271 said:


> OK, been doing a little research. I want to go 1x10 with the 40 tooth cog and 30 tooth NW chainring, but, I have a Shimmy SLX 11-36 cogset......allegedly, the 17 tooth cog spacer is non-removable. Will I have to ditch the SLX and upgrade to XT or is there another solution??


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## moabman (Apr 8, 2006)

I tried to install a oneup 42 tooth cog on a 2012 stumpy fsr with a mid cage x9 rear derailleur with no clutch. The b adjustment didnt seem capable of pushing the derailleur far enough away to clear the cog, i tried a longer screw but it seems to reach the end of the deerailleur's ability to reach. I could not even force the derailleur to move that far by hand. I thought that people had mentioned on this thread that they had had success with pre clutch derailleurs, anyone have an idea what the prob is?


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

moabman said:


> I tried to install a oneup 42 tooth cog on a 2012 stumpy fsr with a mid cage x9 rear derailleur with no clutch. The b adjustment didnt seem capable of pushing the derailleur far enough away to clear the cog, i tried a longer screw but it seems to reach the end of the deerailleur's ability to reach. I could not even force the derailleur to move that far by hand. I thought that people had mentioned on this thread that they had had success with pre clutch derailleurs, anyone have an idea what the prob is?


I think it is mentioned somewhere in this thread that 2011 or 2012 X9 del. didn't work as well with the lack of this clearance issue as the newer del.


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## moabman (Apr 8, 2006)

blcman said:


> I think it is mentioned somewhere in this thread that 2011 or 2012 X9 del. didn't work as well with the lack of this clearance issue as the newer del.


thanks, i missed that. Unless I am missing something, it doesnt work at all.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

Anyone convert there shimano zee with the rad cage. I want to try this but i cant find the inner plates anywhere. The part numbers are - Y5XC09000 (XTR), Y5XC09100 (XT, SLX) or Y50H09000 (Deore


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## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

caRpetbomBer said:


> Anyone convert there shimano zee with the rad cage. I want to try this but i cant find the inner plates anywhere. The part numbers are - Y5XC09000 (XTR), Y5XC09100 (XT, SLX) or Y50H09000 (Deore


This is what I used. Shipping took about two weeks. J L Rear Derailleur Carbon Mech Inner Plate Cage for M980 M985 M986 M972 Shadow | eBay


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

40t or 42t rear? I have been running a wolftooth 32t front and 42t rear for a while and considering going to 40t on the back.

What the advantages/disadvantages be moving to the 40t?


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

trailbrain said:


> 40t or 42t rear? I have been running a wolftooth 32t front and 42t rear for a while and considering going to 40t on the back.
> 
> What the advantages/disadvantages be moving to the 40t?


You lose about 1.2 gear inch pounds lol.


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

caRpetbomBer said:


> You lose about 1.2 gear inch pounds lol.


Thanks. Real helpful....not

I guess I should be more specific. Will the move to a 40t help with shifting and back pedaling?


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

The only reason going 42 to 40 would be if your derailleur is having problems with the big 42 tooth. But it might easier to use a rad cage to fix this problem of shifting. Whats your setup.


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

32t Wolftooth up front on SRAM XX1 crank. SRAM X0 rear der long cage on SRAM 11-36 cassette with 42t Wolftooth cog.

I don't have any shifting issues. Maybe it would really just be slightly harder pedaling using a 40t instead of 42t.


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## thecanoe (Jan 30, 2007)

I'm looking at the RM Blizzard fat bike. It comes with a 1x10. 24t front and 11-36 rear. I'd like to install the 1up 40/16 but they don't recommend a chainring smaller than 26. Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## temporoad (Jul 27, 2006)

thecanoe said:


> I'm looking at the RM Blizzard fat bike. It comes with a 1x10. 24t front and 11-36 rear. I'd like to install the 1up 40/16 but they don't recommend a chainring smaller than 26. Thoughts?


You may not need to change anything, do the math. 24 to 42 I don't think your legs will keep up. Give the factory setup a try before you spend more money.


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## honkonbobo (Nov 18, 2006)

thecanoe said:


> I'm looking at the RM Blizzard fat bike. It comes with a 1x10. 24t front and 11-36 rear. I'd like to install the 1up 40/16 but they don't recommend a chainring smaller than 26. Thoughts


i know you probably wouldn't be considering the 40T it if you didn't feel you needed it and i am not sure what your terrain is like but i gotta say 24-36 is a seriously low gear.

having said that if you are looking for lower gearing can you save some $$ and avoid going against their recommendation by putting on a 22T instead?


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

honkonbobo said:


> i know you probably wouldn't be considering the 40T it if you didn't feel you needed it and i am not sure what your terrain is like but i gotta say 24-36 is a seriously low gear.
> 
> having said that if you are looking for lower gearing can you save some $$ and avoid going against their recommendation by putting on a 22T instead?


Thats what I did for my 2x10.


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## thecanoe (Jan 30, 2007)

My Moonlander and Tallboy bought have a 22t front. I use the 22/36 a lot so I know I need an equivalent gear. Not sure if they make a 22 for the RM but would be the easiest to do. I'll check it out when they start shipping. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

thecanoe said:


> My Moonlander and Tallboy bought have a 22t front. I use the 22/36 a lot so I know I need an equivalent gear. Not sure if they make a 22 for the RM but would be the easiest to do. I'll check it out when they start shipping.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When I converted my 2x10 (22/36 low), I crunched some numbers and realized that 26/42 is only 1% harder than the 22/36. I lose the high, but haven't missed it. Hope that helps.


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## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

mevnet said:


> Just ordered a One-up 42+16 for a Sram X9 Setup. Going on a Kona Process 111, can't wait. Is the general consensus that the 42t works better woth the Sram RDs?
> I will report back


ok, just got my 42t+16t and installed it in no time with the Sram X9 type 2 RD. Plenty of B screw left but I am not happy. when chain on 36 cage of RD touches the 42t (slightly but it does). If I use more B screw, the shifting is a total mess throughout. 
I did buy these based on the good reviews but I found myself wondering if I should have went with a 30t chainring instead. Anyone tried this setup? Tips, tricks?
BTW, shifting around that 16t cog is pretty bad.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

The shifting on the three small cogs will suffer just due to the lack of chain wrap around them. Once you get out of the small cogs...it'll shift like normal. The slow shifting is a compromise you have to make when using a 42T on a 10 speed setup.


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## maindog (Mar 4, 2014)

mevnet said:


> ok, just got my 42t+16t and installed it in no time with the Sram X9 type 2 RD. Plenty of B screw left but I am not happy. when chain on 36 cage of RD touches the 42t (slightly but it does). If I use more B screw, the shifting is a total mess throughout.
> I did buy these based on the good reviews but I found myself wondering if I should have went with a 30t chainring instead. Anyone tried this setup? Tips, tricks?
> BTW, shifting around that 16t cog is pretty bad.


Mine is shifting perfectly ( WT 42t, XT 11-36 cassette, SRAM X0 type 2 MED ) with just a little lag from 13t to 17t. It sounds to me that probably you have a bent derailleur hanger.


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## retswen (May 13, 2014)

I would get the chain to stop grinding first, and then adjust the shifting.



mevnet said:


> ok, just got my 42t+16t and installed it in no time with the Sram X9 type 2 RD. Plenty of B screw left but I am not happy. when chain on 36 cage of RD touches the 42t (slightly but it does). If I use more B screw, the shifting is a total mess throughout.
> I did buy these based on the good reviews but I found myself wondering if I should have went with a 30t chainring instead. Anyone tried this setup? Tips, tricks?
> BTW, shifting around that 16t cog is pretty bad.


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## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

I will probably have to file bit of the cage so it does not touch the 42t. Took the bike for a quick spin and under load the powertrain is much less hesitant, might be able to get used to it. Unfortunately(or fortunately) a have an XT powertrain on my other bike and that one shifts perfectly. I have a spare RD hanger, I will try that one too.
Next is to replace my 34 with a NW 32t chainring, that will give me the most useable ratios for a 1x10. Most probably have to cut a couple of links of the chain, then re-adjust everything. I will report back.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

mevnet said:


> ok, just got my 42t+16t and installed it in no time with the Sram X9 type 2 RD. Plenty of B screw left but I am not happy. when chain on 36 cage of RD touches the 42t (slightly but it does). If I use more B screw, the shifting is a total mess throughout.
> I did buy these based on the good reviews but I found myself wondering if I should have went with a 30t chainring instead. Anyone tried this setup? Tips, tricks?
> BTW, shifting around that 16t cog is pretty bad.


Tried spacing the derailleur out with a washer?


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## jimithng23 (Feb 11, 2009)

maindog said:


> Mine is shifting perfectly ( WT 42t, XT 11-36 cassette, SRAM X0 type 2 MED ) with just a little lag from 13t to 17t. It sounds to me that probably you have a bent derailleur hanger.


I have all the same components as you as I sit here and consider either the 40 or 42. What size is your chainring? I'm running a 30t RaceFace NW.


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## maindog (Mar 4, 2014)

jimithng23 said:


> I have all the same components as you as I sit here and consider either the 40 or 42. What size is your chainring? I'm running a 30t RaceFace NW.


I have a 30t Wolf Tooth. Other small issue I have is some chain rubbing while on 11t ( at work stand, not in actual riding ) but it was that or a short chain while on the 42t, I think it's safer to have a little long chain than a short one. I already ordered a WT 16t, will post as soon as I try it.


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## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Don't know what the washer does, so I did not try it. Rode the bike today and under normal riding conditions it shifts fine, with just one hesitation in an hour for an up shift. All an all I am happy with how everything turned out, now plan to put a 32 chainring upfront and call it a day. ( or a 30, will test tomorrow on a favourite climb). Again my RD is x9 type 2


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## randyg (Oct 13, 2004)

My experiment with the 42t GC on my XT drivetrain is officially a complete failure. I've tried everything mentioned here and either it shifts fine going to taller gears or fine shifting towards the lower gears (larger cogs) but I cannot adjust the RD to do both. I can't see ever getting this set up to shift as sweet as an XT drivetrain should. I even had my shop mechanic work on it to no avail. So, I'm dumping the 42t on eBay and going with the 30t chainring up front which gives me basically the gearing I was needing anyway.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

One-up 40 tooth sprocket and RAD cage. | drj0nswanderings

my thoughts on a RAD cage 11-40 set up&#8230;.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

get the cage


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## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

randyg said:


> My experiment with the 42t GC on my XT drivetrain is officially a complete failure. I've tried everything mentioned here and either it shifts fine going to taller gears or fine shifting towards the lower gears (larger cogs) but I cannot adjust the RD to do both. I can't see ever getting this set up to shift as sweet as an XT drivetrain should. I even had my shop mechanic work on it to no avail. So, I'm dumping the 42t on eBay and going with the 30t chainring up front which gives me basically the gearing I was needing anyway.


Get the RAD cage if you have medium cage, or switch to 40t instead.
Mine is xt with 40t one up, long cage shadow plus, shifts 99% perfectly through out on FS bike.


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## vack (Jan 2, 2003)

temporoad said:


> You may not need to change anything, do the math. 24 to 42 I don't think your legs will keep up. Give the factory setup a try before you spend more money.


For comparison sorta, I just finished up my Muk did a 1x10 with a 28T up front and a 11-36 out back. I had thought that I was going to do a Wolftooth 42, and I still might once the snow falls....however, the 28T I think is a goldie locks ring. I've been able to climb everything that I normally do. Including a hill or two that I have to walk on my 32T 13-42 29er.

So like the other folks have said, I'd give it a shot, especially with a 24T. I can go as low as a 26T on my Race Face Cranks....what set up do you have with a 24T...just curious, I'd like to check them out too maybe. For the Fatty anyway.


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## Crow (Feb 14, 2007)

Ugh....second complete destruction in a month. High speed downhill and sucked a rock up in there, actually tore the rear wheel off this time, and bent the crap outta my RAD cage. A tip: in addition to carrying a spare derailleur hanger carry an extra B axle thingy too.


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

Crow said:


> Ugh....second complete destruction in a month. High speed downhill and sucked a rock up in there, actually tore the rear wheel off this time, and bent the crap outta my RAD cage. A tip: in addition to carrying a spare derailleur hanger carry an extra B axle thingy too.
> 
> View attachment 932601


That is some impressive damage. I thought the RAD cage looked a lot stronger than the stock XT cage I replaced it with. What derailleur is that? Does it have a clutch?


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## Crow (Feb 14, 2007)

Itsa XT M786 mid cage, w a clutch. Yeah the RAD cage seems definitely tougher. I am more of a freerider guy, I ride mank and jump and do goofy stuff on a bike, kinda like high speed trials. previous time I was entering a jump section and sucked a log up into the chain world. This time I was blasting a set of loose ledges when a big ol rock got up in there. Both times I bent the poop outta the b axle bracket thingy, seems a weak link to that whole set up. Didn't matter that I carried a spare one of them or a hanger on this one, pretty much bent everything and broke that inner cage. Dem the brakes when ya charge. Got a new derailleur and RAD cage due here by the weekend. this one goes in the parts bin(mine is quite large as you could guess).


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## jeRdrgz (Mar 9, 2013)

Im using 42 wt and 30T NW, with XT shadow rd and a XT 2X crankset.

Which 1x crankset do you recommend that's cheap please? 
Also I have a 2013 Fuel Ex8, don't know what type of bb I need, as much as I know, it's press fit, am I right? Thank you


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## SundayRiverRider (Oct 29, 2008)

Ok, looks like I'm going to need to upgrade my new 1x10 full Shimano XT set up to the One Up 42. For the last month I've tried a new 1x10 with a RaceFace 30T narrow wide and 11-36 XT cassette and while it works for me in many places, the trail network I ride most frequently definitely requires a smaller gear. Lots of quick ups and downs, and a few places that I need the bigger granny to make it up. The place I like to ride is like a spaghetti maze of up,down, slow crawling single trick. It's fun, but my knees aren't liking the 36t. I never had a problem with 2x9, but I like the 1x10 for it's simplicity. So I'm hoping the OneUp can save me. 
I guess I might as well go for the 42 sprocket and I'm going to order the Rad Cage for the Shimano XT Shadow Plus RD. 

Sounds like a decent solution, correct? Thanks for any suggestions/tips.

I'll take it my friendly bike mechanic who is looking forward to seeing it too.


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## Crow (Feb 14, 2007)

Sunday, I wa in the exact same boat and went the exact same route you did. I love it, I don't think you will be disappointed at all. The 30/42 combo is actually lower than my old granny gear combo was. Shifts clean for me and works perfect. Now if I can quit destroying 'em(entirely my fault, not Oneup's)


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## Xandr (Apr 1, 2014)

Running 32T Garbaruk NW chainring mounted on Sram S2210 cranks in front and 42T+16T OneUp cogs paired with 1030 Sram cassete and Sram X9 Type2 RD in the back. Thinking about to try mix of Sram X01 RD with SAINT 10sp shifter. Any thoughts?


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Got a small package from OneUP today. Add that to the stuff I've been collecting and it looks like I'll be trying this out this weekend. I'll keep you posted.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

So I installed everything and it seems to work pretty well. Not as smooth as I would have liked and there seems to be a bit of a hang up moving up from 13-16, but no issues moving from 36 - 42. Zee shifters are stiffer than my XT. Meaning they take a bit more effort but this might be from the clutch??

Installation of the RAD cage was a piece of cake, no issues there.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Where can I pick up a Shimano 16t cog? I don't like the shifting with the OneUp 16. A quick Google search brings up a lot of lock ring but I don't see 16 individually.


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

Go with the WT 16t cog. Big improvement!


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

What is different? Are the ramps better?


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

Visually I noticed the one up looked chrome plated and less precise in the machining than the WT cog.

I would just be guessing why the WT is working better for me. I am definitely not an expert.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Fair enough. I haven't ridden on the trails yet (tomorrow), I'll know better how I feel after that, although I doubt I'll be in my 16 (32/16) very much where I am going.


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

SundayRiverRider said:


> Ok, looks like I'm going to need to upgrade my new 1x10 full Shimano XT set up to the One Up 42. For the last month I've tried a new 1x10 with a RaceFace 30T narrow wide and 11-36 XT cassette and while it works for me in many places, the trail network I ride most frequently definitely requires a smaller gear. Lots of quick ups and downs, and a few places that I need the bigger granny to make it up. The place I like to ride is like a spaghetti maze of up,down, slow crawling single trick. It's fun, but my knees aren't liking the 36t. I never had a problem with 2x9, but I like the 1x10 for it's simplicity. So I'm hoping the OneUp can save me.
> I guess I might as well go for the 42 sprocket and I'm going to order the Rad Cage for the Shimano XT Shadow Plus RD.
> 
> Sounds like a decent solution, correct? Thanks for any suggestions/tips.
> ...


This applies to Shimano only:

I've gone through 32x11-36, 32x11-42 and finally settled on 30x11-40.

If you're not going for ultimate speed and want maximum utility, use the smallest rear cog that you can and suck up the (very slightly) lowered pedaling top-end. On my 30x11, I'd spin out at 19.3 mph at 90rpm (vs 20.6 with a 32t), which is a non-issue with the trails I ride.

The 42t cog caused non-Shimano quality shifting and skipping on the smallest cogs, which made me hate it. IIRC,30x40 is the same as 24x32 and eliminates the need to use quite so much B-tension screw adjustment which improves shifting and chain wrap.

Pretty sure that's the reason that Shimano's newest offering is going to have a 40t max, to preserve shift quality.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

richde said:


> The 42t cog caused non-Shimano quality shifting and skipping on the smallest cogs, which made me hate it. IIRC,30x40 is the same as 24x32 and eliminates the need to use quite so much B-tension screw adjustment which improves shifting and chain wrap.


Did you try rad cage with the 42?


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## mgreene888 (Oct 21, 2013)

Trail_Blazer said:


> I loved the WT 42 and I kept the standard gears in my cassette but dropped the 11T.
> Worked great with a little tweaking of b screw.


Hey all,

Removing the 11T cog to add 42T GC sounds like a great option for me.

For a Sram 1070 cassette, do I need an aftermarket lock ring to successfully ditch 11 tooth cog? Aside from the absolute black, I see Sram has a 12 tooth lock ring available - is this a viable option?

I am 2X10, 46/34 with a XO long cage der. THis is my street/gravel bike which needs a granny gear for a few tough hills in my area.

Thanks

Mike


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

CrozCountry said:


> Did you try rad cage with the 42?


I did not, but I like the smaller jump from the 40 to the 36. Slightly better shifting to and from the biggest cog and not as drastic of a gear change as 42 to 36, so I'm more likely to sneak down the cassette while climbing.


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

if you are going to drop the 11, you can accomplish the same thing by just changing the front ring to a smaller one. The whole point of the 40/42 is to increase the range of the cassette. Adding a 40/42 and dropping 11 is like jumping forward and stepping back to where you started, except your overall gearing is lower by a gear. So why not just save all the expense and work, and drop down "2" on your front ring instead.

I run an 11/42 (Wolftooth) on 2 bikes, absolutely love it. I'm running stock Shimano XT and XTR rear ders, both shift perfectly. I suppose they might work better with a Rad Cage, but it shifts as good as stock so I've never even considered the need to do so.

YMMV


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## mgreene888 (Oct 21, 2013)

Understand what you mean John but I am on a rival crankset. AFAIK, 34 is as low as it goes. Since I am 2X10, and being old and weak, I figure I need the 42 more than I need the 11.

Mike


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

that makes a lot of sense then Mike!


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

CROZCOUNTRY, are you pretty sure about the 42 working better on XT system than 40? It seems like you tried both? I was thinking the 40 on my 11-36 would be less stress on system, but maybe 42 better. I would go 42, extra 16 cog, Rad cage on a XT plus rear Derailleur.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

First ride today with my set up...LOVE IT!

XT Shadow +, 11-36+42/16, Zee shifter, XT chain. 

I had zero issues...shifted clean through whole range. Totally happy!!!


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

I'm using OU 40T with Shimano 16T, XT cassette/medium cage derailleur for a couple of months now. While the range is perfect for me with RF 30T NW chainring I still have the annoying 16T to 19T shift problem. Everything else is perfect and it drives me crazy. Most of the times I have to shift to 16 to 21 and back to 19T which kills the momentum.

The problem is that the space is bigger between the 16-19 than the 16-13. On one side the 13T keeps the space on the other side the carrier of 19/21/24. They are pushing the 16T differently from both sides - even their diameter is slightly different - and when i tighten the lock ring the 16T bends out of shape (kind of dish) and that changes the gap on its sides causing the shifting problem.
I noticed this when I was cleaning the cassette. While the cleaner goes between the other cogs with tight fit the 16-19 is very loose and I cannot even push it between the 16-13. If the lockring is just hand tight then all the same - but I cannot use it like that. I tried with two XT cassettes and the result is the same.


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## ULTRA MAN (Nov 3, 2014)

Hello all.. I am converting a 3x10 on a Ibis Mojo hd to 1x10.. what is the consensus on dropping the 11 tooth and adding a 12T Lockring. I ride more in the middle of the cassette then at the bottom. I dont want sloppy shifting in the middle of the cassette.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

hoolie said:


> CROZCOUNTRY, are you pretty sure about the 42 working better on XT system than 40? It seems like you tried both? I was thinking the 40 on my 11-36 would be less stress on system, but maybe 42 better. I would go 42, extra 16 cog, Rad cage on a XT plus rear Derailleur.


Didn't try both, just asked the question. It seems like the rad cage solves a lot of shifting problems with the extended cassettes.


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

950sm07 said:


> I'm using OU 40T with Shimano 16T, XT cassette/medium cage derailleur for a couple of months now. While the range is perfect for me with RF 30T NW chainring I still have the annoying 16T to 19T shift problem. Everything else is perfect and it drives me crazy. Most of the times I have to shift to 16 to 21 and back to 19T which kills the momentum.
> 
> The problem is that the space is bigger between the 16-19 than the 16-13. On one side the 13T keeps the space on the other side the carrier of 19/21/24. They are pushing the 16T differently from both sides - even their diameter is slightly different - and when i tighten the lock ring the 16T bends out of shape (kind of dish) and that changes the gap on its sides causing the shifting problem.
> I noticed this when I was cleaning the cassette. While the cleaner goes between the other cogs with tight fit the 16-19 is very loose and I cannot even push it between the 16-13. If the lockring is just hand tight then all the same - but I cannot use it like that. I tried with two XT cassettes and the result is the same.


I have issues shifting down from Shimano 16 T to the XT 19 T on carrier. From 19T to 16T seems fine. All of the other shifting is perfect. It is a SRAM X9 Medium Cage type 2 mech. When I shift from 16T to 19T, I just push the trigger a little further than normally required and it works. It's unfortunate because everything else is flawless. I'm using a wolftooth 40 GC cog and wolftooth 30 T chainring. I'm guessing in the smaller cog shifting, one tooth difference is required. ie 11,13,15,17,19, going from 11,13,16,19, shifting becomes marginal.


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

Bos said:


> I have issues shifting down from Shimano 16 T to the XT 19 T on carrier. From 19T to 16T seems fine. All of the other shifting is perfect. It is a SRAM X9 Medium Cage type 2 mech. When I shift from 16T to 19T, I just push the trigger a little further than normally required and it works. It's unfortunate because everything else is flawless. I'm using a wolftooth 40 GC cog and wolftooth 30 T chainring. I'm guessing in the smaller cog shifting, one tooth difference is required. ie 11,13,15,17,19, going from 11,13,16,19, shifting becomes marginal.


It's annoying because all the other up and downshifts are perfect but the 16 to 19. I will try to find a solution to fix the bending of the 16T I think that's the key.


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

drmayer said:


> After looking at a gear chart of the typical cassette you end up with after the 42t addition (11-42) I didn't like the jumps the 16t replacing the 15 and 17 gives you. If you substitute the 17 and 19 with an 18t you end up with much better steps. In other words, the 15-18-21 sequence is less severe than the 13-16-19.
> 
> I installed a 18t I had laying around and indeed the feel was much better. I had to drill the rivets of my slx cassette to remove the 17 and 19 but that was an easy task.
> 
> If you're still not satisfied with the gaps the 16t leaves, go for the 18t.


Can you explain why 15-18-21 is less severe than 13-16-19? I count two steps in between either way.


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

950sm07 said:


> It's annoying because all the other up and downshifts are perfect but the 16 to 19. I will try to find a solution to fix the bending of the 16T I think that's the key.


I had the same shifting when I was going from 13 to 17, just pushed shifter a little further to shift. I was really surprised when the 16 tooth didn't seem to improve shifting. Or course, the 16 does provide better gearing.


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## honkonbobo (Nov 18, 2006)

Bos said:


> Can you explain why 15-18-21 is less severe than 13-16-19? I count two steps in between either way.


its because a 2 tooth gap doesn't feel the same for all cogs. going from 11-13 is nothing like going from 40-42 for example. the best way to understand it is too look at the percent difference between the cogs in number of teeth.

Diff
11	
13	18.2%
15	15.4%
18	20.0%
21	16.7%
24	14.3%
28	16.7%
32	14.3%
36	12.5%
42	16.7%

Diff
11	
13	18.2%
16	23.1%
19	18.8%
21	10.5%
24	14.3%
28	16.7%
32	14.3%
36	12.5%
42	16.7%

the first cassette has more consistent percent changes (13>15>18>21 spreads out the range better than the other cassette with the 13>16 big gap and then 19>21 small gap). whats a couple percent here and there? well IMO you can really feel it when the differences start getting into the high teens and twenties especially when you go back and forth between riding a mtb and road bike which typically has tighter spacing.

this is also why i find it curious to read that some people buy the 40T big cogs instead of the 42T cogs with the reasoning that the "6 teeth is too much of a gap". that 6 tooth step up in percent terms is actually the same or less than the they will experience in 4 other places on an XT cassette with the 16T installed.


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

Thanks for the explanation, makes sense. When I chose just going to 30 11x40, I did so because 30x40 is equivalent to 24x32 which was the lowest I would ever use in my terrain. Also, it seemed shifting might be better just going to 40.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

You can also still use a Zee mech with the 40t.


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## pitworkz (Jun 6, 2013)

Does any one tried the 2x10 setup with the 40 cog? What derraileur size? By the way im using shimano xt.


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## softbatch (Aug 19, 2014)

Does anyone know of a source for SRAM Cassette Cogs? I'm looking at using the SRAM PG1070 11/36 but replacing the 12-14-16 with a 13-15.


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## gbug (Jul 20, 2010)

ULTRA MAN said:


> Hello all.. I am converting a 3x10 on a Ibis Mojo hd to 1x10.. what is the consensus on dropping the 11 tooth and adding a 12T Lockring. I ride more in the middle of the cassette then at the bottom. I dont want sloppy shifting in the middle of the cassette.


Since nobody has replied, I'll help a fellow HD rider out. Although you might not use the small cogs at the moment, I'm willing to bet you will find them more useful when you only have one chainring up front as opposed to three. There's not much point to dropping the 11T for a 12T, you might as well just use a smaller front chainring for the same effect.

The shifting is not bad with this mod, just not as precise as Shimano usually is. In my opinion, that's a fair tradeoff for saving $800 or so over a true 1x11 system. It's up to you to decide what is more important: perfect shifting or $800 in your pocket?


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## ULTRA MAN (Nov 3, 2014)

gbug said:


> Since nobody has replied, I'll help a fellow HD rider out. Although you might not use the small cogs at the moment, I'm willing to bet you will find them more useful when you only have one chainring up front as opposed to three. There's not much point to dropping the 11T for a 12T, you might as well just use a smaller front chainring for the same effect.
> 
> The shifting is not bad with this mod, just not as precise as Shimano usually is. In my opinion, that's a fair tradeoff for saving $800 or so over a true 1x11 system. It's up to you to decide what is more important: perfect shifting or $800 in your pocket?


I will be running a 30 tooth NW chainring and a 11-36 xt cassette. Living in Park City Utah I wanted a 40 tooth bailout gear if needed. 99% of my riding is single track.... Lots and lots of climbing. I mostly ride in the middle of the cassette and that's my thinking about loosing the lower cog.


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## mayonays (Oct 22, 2010)

ULTRA MAN said:


> I will be running a 30 tooth NW chainring and a 11-36 xt cassette. Living in Park City Utah I wanted a 40 tooth bailout gear if needed. 99% of my riding is single track.... Lots and lots of climbing. I mostly ride in the middle of the cassette and that's my thinking about loosing the lower cog.


Depending on your crankset, just get a 28T and forget about the 40T in the rear. Your range with a 28T & 11-36 will be .78-2.55 vs .75-2.5 with a 30T & 12-40 cassette. You'll save $100 and won't need to worry about sloppy shifting.


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## mgreene888 (Oct 21, 2013)

softbatch said:


> Does anyone know of a source for SRAM Cassette Cogs? I'm looking at using the SRAM PG1070 11/36 but replacing the 12-14-16 with a 13-15.


I asked a similar question a couple of days ago - no response. I went with the Miche 13 T cog available at amazon - to replace my 1070's 11T. It a first cog w/ the serrations. Got a SRAM 12T lock ring there too. Don't know about the 15.

Mike
Mike


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## ULTRA MAN (Nov 3, 2014)

mayonays said:


> Depending on your crankset, just get a 28T and forget about the 40T in the rear. Your range with a 28T & 11-36 will be .78-2.55 vs .75-2.5 with a 30T & 12-40 cassette. You'll save $100 and won't need to worry about sloppy shifting.


Running the 28T and 11 - 36 cassette was my first choice. The race Face NW chainring is not an option in the 28 tooth for my crankset. The 30T is the smallest. .. The 40 tooth cog was a gift so I kinda lucked out with that!!


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## mayonays (Oct 22, 2010)

ULTRA MAN said:


> Running the 28T and 11 - 36 cassette was my first choice. The race Face NW chainring is not an option in the 28 tooth for my crankset. The 30T is the smallest. .. The 40 tooth cog was a gift so I kinda lucked out with that!!


Gotcha, well then give I'd certainly go the route you mentioned. If you find yourself spinning out often, then you can just pick up a bigger front chainring.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

What are some crank options to run a 28T front chain ring. I guess you need a direct mount version for the cranks.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

The XX1 spider will let you go as small as a 26T. IMO...the XX1 spider will give you the most chainring options without having to go direct mount.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

RS VR6 said:


> The XX1 spider will let you go as small as a 26T. IMO...the XX1 spider will give you the most chainring options without having to go direct mount.


26? I thought it was 28, and you'd need a WT DM ring to get a 26?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Blackspire has a 26T ring for the XX1 76bcd spider.

Blackspire 26T x 76mm Single Chainring 9 10 11 Speed NW Ring Fits SRAM XX1 37g | eBay


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## mayonays (Oct 22, 2010)

caRpetbomBer said:


> What are some crank options to run a 28T front chain ring. I guess you need a direct mount version for the cranks.


SRAM X9 can be picked up pretty inexpensive, or some newer X7 have a removeable spider as well.


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

Bos said:


> I have issues shifting down from Shimano 16 T to the XT 19 T on carrier. From 19T to 16T seems fine. All of the other shifting is perfect. It is a SRAM X9 Medium Cage type 2 mech. When I shift from 16T to 19T, I just push the trigger a little further than normally required and it works. It's unfortunate because everything else is flawless. I'm using a wolftooth 40 GC cog and wolftooth 30 T chainring. I'm guessing in the smaller cog shifting, one tooth difference is required. ie 11,13,15,17,19, going from 11,13,16,19, shifting becomes marginal.


Just and update, I've got this setup shifting well now. The downshift from the 16T shimano to the 19T on the XT cassette works. I only need the 16T on the road anyway.


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

Bos said:


> Just and update, I've got this setup shifting well now. The downshift from the 16T shimano to the 19T on the XT cassette works. I only need the 16T on the road anyway.


Did you do something with it or just "broke in" and became acceptable.
Where did you index the 16T? I'm still trying to make the 16 to 19 shift at least half decent.


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

950sm07 said:


> Did you do something with it or just "broke in" and became acceptable.
> Where did you index the 16T? I'm still trying to make the 16 to 19 shift at least half decent.


the Shimano 16T indexes the same as the original 17T. I double checked to make sure it was compatible with the 19T. I replaced inner shift cable, took chain off and soaked in gasoline before reinstalling and lubricating. Backed out the B screw a tad more. I'm guessing if its not set 100 %, the forth cog position is where it will fail. And maybe I finally got it "perfect" or at least within tolerance. Since you are using an XT mech, maybe you have to think about getting a RAD cage. Double check the chain is on correctly. If its a shimano chain, the writing should be facing out when looking at the drive side. Yeah it was frustrating, I never had to spend that much time adjusting the rear mech before.
.


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## honkonbobo (Nov 18, 2006)

what kind of mud performance are people getting with the 42T cogs? 

i am finding that the 42T is the first cog to become unusable due to skipping when in muddy conditions. you would think it would stay usable the longest due to having more chain wrap but thats not been my experience. i don't typically ride in serious mud but sometimes its unavoidable (the Bells Iceman race this past weekend - total mud fest).


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## Chonggo (Jul 12, 2009)

You could get a chainring from AbsoluteBlack, they have a 28t chainring that would fit where your granny gear would be....


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## mgreene888 (Oct 21, 2013)

mgreene888 said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Removing the 11T cog to add 42T GC sounds like a great option for me.
> 
> ...


Hey all - I got my gravel bike setup working - but I have a puzzling question.

I used the wolf tooth 42T, miche 13T first cog and a sram 12T lock ring on a sram 1070 cassette.

I am on an 11 speed shimano hub w/ a spacer to convert it to use the 1070 cassette. Like some previous posters, after adding the 42T, ditching the 11T and trying to replace the 13T - there was no space left on the hub for the 13t cog. So, replacing the 11t with the 42t - apparently does not maintain the same dimension as the original 10 speed cassette.

I removed the spacer that converts the 11 speed hub to use 10 speed cassette and everything fits and shifts normally on the stand.

I don't understand why this is so - any comments?

As I write this I am remembering that the instructions say to remove a cog and a spacer - ditching the 11 for a 13 first doesn't remove a spacer....????

Thanks

Mike


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

I ran into the same issue when putting together a wide range 11-40t 9 speed cassette. Those bottom cogs (the 11t and 13t) are a little special in that the 13t has a special relief in it that the 11t fits into.


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## mgreene888 (Oct 21, 2013)

That's why I am puzzled - several people just replaced the 13 with a 13t first cog and claimed all was fine. The spacing between 13 and 15 for me looks normal.

Mike


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## mgreene888 (Oct 21, 2013)

TigWorld said:


> I ran into the same issue when putting together a [url=http://faqload.com/faqs/bicycle
> 
> Thanks Tig, now I see. I inspected the original cogs and see the recess in the 13T cog, the depth of a spacer, to accept the 11T cog. Of course, the existing 15T cog does not have the recess. I also note that the previous poster that I followed in this experiment was on Shimano cassette.
> 
> ...


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

mgreene888 said:


> QUESTION: You'all think I need to add chain links?
> 
> Mike


Looks fine, you could almost remove a link.


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## mgreene888 (Oct 21, 2013)

Tanks N-BOY - it shifts great on the stand. 

I know this isn't what Wolf Tooth specifically recommends but it would be nice if they addressed it.

Mike


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## mgreene888 (Oct 21, 2013)

mgreene888 said:


> I know this isn't what Wolf Tooth specifically recommends but it would be nice if they addressed it.
> 
> Mike


I contacted Wolf Tooth and spoke to Brendan - who was great to talk with by email. He said he would get a Miche 13T first cog and try some permutations of my set up to see why it works. Note that he seemed to say that it probably shouldn't work as well as it does (my interpretation) - but probably does because the weird spacing is at the first cog and the limit screw is probably adjusted to make it shift OK.

Mike


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

950sm07 said:


> I'm using OU 40T with Shimano 16T, XT cassette/medium cage derailleur for a couple of months now. While the range is perfect for me with RF 30T NW chainring I still have the annoying 16T to 19T shift problem. Everything else is perfect and it drives me crazy. Most of the times I have to shift to 16 to 21 and back to 19T which kills the momentum.
> 
> The problem is that the space is bigger between the 16-19 than the 16-13. On one side the 13T keeps the space on the other side the carrier of 19/21/24. They are pushing the 16T differently from both sides - even their diameter is slightly different - and when i tighten the lock ring the 16T bends out of shape (kind of dish) and that changes the gap on its sides causing the shifting problem.
> I noticed this when I was cleaning the cassette. While the cleaner goes between the other cogs with tight fit the 16-19 is very loose and I cannot even push it between the 16-13. If the lockring is just hand tight then all the same - but I cannot use it like that. I tried with two XT cassettes and the result is the same.


Did you ever get your shifting issue resolved?


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## davesupra (Sep 2, 2013)

I finally took the 16t off of my setup and put the 15 back on. It's a bit of a jump from the 15 to the 19 but it's been worth it to have the bike shifting well again.


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

davesupra said:


> I finally took the 16t off of my setup and put the 15 back on. It's a bit of a jump from the 15 to the 19 but it's been worth it to have the bike shifting well again.


What brand was your 16T? I've managed to get a Shimano 16T and it works well with my XT cassette and Wolftooth 40T GC.


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## Chonggo (Jul 12, 2009)

I'm guessing you have a Shimano 16t from a 10 speed cassette. You should widen the small opening on the 16t sprocket to be able to rotate the sprocket and find the correct clocking position. a 16t sprocket from a 9 speed cassette would work just fine. I know this because I have both 9 and 10 speed 16t sprockets...


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

hmm my Shimano 16T is clocked exactly like the 17T on the XT cassette it replaced. No change was necessary.


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## Chonggo (Jul 12, 2009)

ooops, just checked it right now, and there's only a slight difference with the clocking. What I did by the day was change the clocking and aligned the shifting gates... Sorry about the wrong info...I'll post photos later...


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

Bos said:


> Did you ever get your shifting issue resolved?


I didn't tighten the lock ring 40nm so it doesn't bend the 16T that much and it is better now but I want a proper solution. I'll modify the carrier of the 19/21/24 - cut down 2,5mm and make a 2,5mm spacer with the same inner diameter as on the 13T side so the pressure will be even on both sides of the 16T. I didn't get do to that because I'm not at home but I will report back when it's done.

I tried to clock the Shimano 16T same as the the 17T but it was worse than clocking it as the OU16T (one tooth rotation CW compare to 17T) so I stick with that.


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

For anyone interested, below is a source for Shimano XT 16T cog.

Shimano XT M771 10-Speed 16t 4th position Cassette Cog @ eBikeStop.com


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

950sm07 said:


> I didn't tighten the lock ring 40nm so it doesn't bend the 16T that much and it is better now but I want a proper solution. I'll modify the carrier of the 19/21/24 - cut down 2,5mm and make a 2,5mm spacer with the same inner diameter as on the 13T side so the pressure will be even on both sides of the 16T. I didn't get do to that because I'm not at home but I will report back when it's done.
> 
> I tried to clock the Shimano 16T same as the the 17T but it was worse than clocking it as the OU16T (one tooth rotation CW compare to 17T) so I stick with that.


Interesting. For me it was just a matter of playing with that B screw. It was way more sensitive than it normally would be. I didn't notice any bending of the cog and I cranked on it fairly tight. I can see what you are saying though, smaller diameter 13T putting pressure against 16T which is pressed against larger diameter middle carrier (19T cog).


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

bike stop is out of stock


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

Bos said:


> Interesting. For me it was just a matter of playing with that B screw. It was way more sensitive than it normally would be. I didn't notice any bending of the cog and I cranked on it fairly tight. I can see what you are saying though, smaller diameter 13T putting pressure against 16T which is pressed against larger diameter middle carrier (19T cog).


Yes, and the middle carrier is hollow that's why the 13T can bend the 16T out of shape a little bit. As I mentioned earlier I noticed this when I cleaned the cassette and the cleaner was too loose between 16-19 and I could hardly push it between the 16-13 while the other gaps were normal.


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## ryanmj (Aug 19, 2014)

Currently running a 34 front with 11-36 in the back. Contemplating either swapping the front out for a 30 tooth or just going for the 42 in the back. 
Which would be a better option to help with climbing?


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

My experience is that the 42T rear will result in adding 1 climbing gear, while changing the 34 to a 30 will get you 2 more climbing gears (and lose 2 high speed gears). 

Basically, the 30T will put you more in the middle of the cassette when you are grinding up. The 42T will give your cassette more range, you'll gain a climbing gear while not losing any high speed peddlin'.

What size wheels?


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

if you don't mind losing two top end gears then just get a 30. i also ran 34/11-36 and could not live with losing those gears and run a 40, i run a zee rd.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Just installed my wolftooth 42 behind a shimano xt 11-36 cassette. SRAM X9 type 2 med cage rd. B screw not even all the way in.
Kmc SL chain, raceface next cranks with 28T up front.
Shifts beautifully, super quiet. Only neighborhood riding so far but hopefully proper ride tomorrow after the rain is done.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

ryanmj said:


> Currently running a 34 front with 11-36 in the back. Contemplating either swapping the front out for a 30 tooth or just going for the 42 in the back.
> Which would be a better option to help with climbing?


I run a 30T 11-36 on my 29er in SoCal and love it. I'm a fit 206lbs and have no problem climbing.


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

so much depends on the rider. I have enough of a tough time with my 30/42 on a 27.5". A riding buddy of mine never used his small front ring all Summer with me, he has no problem with "grunt". I've been trying to get him to go 1 ring in the front, if there's anyone made for that it's him!


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

ryanmj said:


> Currently running a 34 front with 11-36 in the back. Contemplating either swapping the front out for a 30 tooth or just going for the 42 in the back.
> Which would be a better option to help with climbing?


On my 26" enduro I used 30T 11-40 the whole summer and took some time to get used to the two low gears I lost from 2x10 but at the same time I missed the high gears too. It was still an acceptable compromise (I dropped 500gramms off the bike) but now I moved up to 34T. I can still climb up everywhere like I did with 30T and gained some top speed which is great so I'll stick with 34/40 for now. Since I have 2x cranks I put a 22T granny on it to use it manually "just in case" but so far I haven't used it.

If you don't mind losing two high gears - the 30T is a much cheaper solution and you won't have any shifting problems, compromises and you'll have the same ratio on the low end as with 34/42.


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

These might help:

BikeCalc.com - Fixed Gear Calculator

http://www.gear-calculator.com/#


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

Can longer b screws be bought at Home Depot and if so any one know the specs


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## AaGro (Mar 7, 2012)

yeti575inCA said:


> Can longer b screws be bought at Home Depot and if so any one know the specs


The short answer is yes. I can't remember the specs for my XT shadow+, but if you skip the big box store and go to a smaller hardware store (we have a locally owned and operated version of Ace that works for this - where I've found HD to be light on metric fasteners) bring your b-tension screw, there will be a board full of nuts for you to match up with - a good hardware store will probably have a person who wants to do this for you. Barring this, start in the metric bin and just start pulling nuts until you find the right match. Then find a longer version of your screw. Sorted.


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## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

Been following this thread a long time. Went with the OneUp 42T for my 2011 stumpjumper fsr. 

Had a XT long cage derailleur. So I swapped in a medium inner cage when I added the RAD cage. 

Still had to twist the b-screw all the way in but shifting was great across the range. Only flaw was that the 16T consistently skipped under load. That sucked. So I removed it. Put back in the stock 17T. 

I got one of the first 16T cogs and someone mentioned that the machining has improved since then. I don't know if that is true, but the 16t was not usable in my situation and had to be removed. 

Just got back from GWNF. Put the system through 5200 ft of rocky climbing and fast descents over rocky terrain. The system was fantastic. Not a single missed shift, skip, or problem. My cassette does have a 17t to 13t jump. I noticed a slight hesitation when testing the system in the parking lot. Did not once notice or think about it on the trail. Shifting on and off the 42T is like butter. I had a few climbs where I dumped down to the 42T in desperation and under load. Was smooth every time. 

In the end, even though the 16T did not work out, I am very Happy and would recommend the product to friends.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

yeti575inCA said:


> Can longer b screws be bought at Home Depot and if so any one know the specs


According to Wolf Tooth, it's an M4 x 25 mm screw.

25 mm B-screw ? wolftoothcomponents.com


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Spillway said:


> Even though the 16T did not work out, I am very Happy and would recommend the product to friends.


Give us a shout at [email protected]. We'll get you sorted with a replacement 16T.



D Bone said:


> It's an M4 x 25 mm screw.


I'd recommend against this. The extended screw will damage the landing patch on your RD body. If you do decide to go this route make sure to reverse the screw for more surface area. If you are also interested in improving the shifting in 11-13-16-19 I'd recommend looking at a RAD or RADr cage.

Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

Thanks for the b screw info guys


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

This is what happens when you crank the b-tension bolt too far in on a Shimano rear derailleur.


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## ryanmj (Aug 19, 2014)

UtahJohn said:


> My experience is that the 42T rear will result in adding 1 climbing gear, while changing the 34 to a 30 will get you 2 more climbing gears (and lose 2 high speed gears).
> 
> Basically, the 30T will put you more in the middle of the cassette when you are grinding up. The 42T will give your cassette more range, you'll gain a climbing gear while not losing any high speed peddlin'.
> 
> What size wheels?


27.5

I dont think I could lose my 2 high speed gears.


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

Then the 42T is what you need to get more uphill grunt and keep the high speed as-is.


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## Calzor Suzay (Jun 18, 2007)

Having just pulled the trigger on a OneUp 42t & RADr, KMC chain, XT 10 spd RD with clutch, race face NW ring, what order do you set it all up in?

Fit RADr to mech and then bike
Fit cassette, adjust hi/lo on mech by eye
Fit front ring
Remove spring and compress shock fully
Fit chain (what do I do to what to work out chain length?)
Adjust B screw
Fit cable and adjust
Go ride?


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

Calzor Suzay said:


> Having just pulled the trigger on a OneUp 42t & RADr, KMC chain, XT 10 spd RD with clutch, race face NW ring, what order do you set it all up in?
> 
> Fit RADr to mech and then bike *Yes*
> Fit cassette, adjust hi/lo on mech by eye *Yes*
> ...


 * And Yes*


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

OneUp Components Release NW Chainrings and Updated RADr Cage - Pinkbike

20% off discount code... oneup20

Complete set up... Front ring, Radr cage, 42t &16t cogs ,$154 shipped.

We will see how it all comes together!


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

OneUp said:


> Give us a shout at [email protected]. We'll get you sorted with a replacement 16T.
> 
> I'd recommend against this. The extended screw will damage the landing patch on your RD body. If you do decide to go this route make sure to reverse the screw for more surface area. If you are also interested in improving the shifting in 11-13-16-19 I'd recommend looking at a RAD or RADr cage.
> 
> ...


Good on you... very reassuring when companies show up to support their product!
I am hoping those 16t cogs are sorted.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

RS VR6 said:


> This is what happens when you crank the b-tension bolt too far in on a Shimano rear derailleur.
> 
> View attachment 942279


I've read more than once and also did it myself- reverse the screw- simple solution.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

That's what I did. I eventually switched to SRAM. The Shimano shifting ( pre RAD cage days) just wasn't doing it for me.


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## K4m1k4z3 (Jan 5, 2007)

I've found a video of a Shimano XT (10 spd) converted to 11 spd:
Shimano XT 1x11 - YouTube

The gearing is: 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32-36-42

This makes for an 11-42 speed cassette with fine steps between the gears (no 13-16 jumps etc.)

CASSETTE Mods:
Added a 42T cog with a spacer behind the 36T cog (removed the rivets and replaced them with screws M3x10 & M3x14). Added a 1mm spacer behind the cassette.

SHIFTER Mods:
Cut a part of the ratchet that's in the shifter with a dremel tool to create an extra shifting position.

DERAILLEUR Mods:
Apparently none (apart from re-adjusting limit screws and B-tension), although I suppose a RAD Cage would be necessary for optimal shifting.

The guy also makes a 12 spd mod for SRAM XX1. Interesting stuff.


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## Preston67 (Mar 20, 2008)

wow that's kind of awesome. I didn't see any info in that video about what he did though, not sure where you gleaned that info.

I like this as I was looking at gear charts last night and realized I found the 40t-35t jump on the shimano cassette kind of annoying, much prefer a 36-40 jump. If that also saves me the money of buying a new XTR setup so much the better. But then again, these hot rodded setups never seem to work quite as magically as the engineered packages.


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## K4m1k4z3 (Jan 5, 2007)

A guy on another forum sent him and email and got back these pdfs explaining the cassette mod.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/345lzmbcfylvbyw/11 Speed XT Cassette 11_42.rar?dl=0

The complete cassette costs 87€ while the modified ZEE shifter costs 34€ (ZEE and SLX are possible to mod, I'm not sure about XT as I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere).


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

Something about that mod doesn't make any sense. What kind of 42 tooth cog are they using.


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## Preston67 (Mar 20, 2008)

I assume he is talking about rivets and new screws because he is machining out the center of the 42t cog and attaching it to the cluster so that the cluster can be mounted as normal, and then the 42t cog sits closer to the spokes. CAn't believe that all would work and fit in there. I'll definitely be taking a closer look at that tonight. I can figure out how to attach a cog, the part that would be new to me is modifying the shifter. But I have a Zee shifter on my DH bike that won't get used until April, and I have a 40t cog that was skipping and I took it off, and I have a couple of XT11-36, I might have to give this a go. So far I have not been able to open that link though, I get an ssl error.

Would sure be great to get perfect gearing and 10 spd compatibility and save $1k !

>The guy also makes a 12 spd mod for SRAM XX1. Interesting stuff. 
What the heck would the 12th gear be ?


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## Preston67 (Mar 20, 2008)

I downloaded those documents and the key to his conversion is the 42t cog he is using - it is something custom made or a part available in his area, as it is specifically designed to mount using screws replacing the rivets and comes with two different specific spacers. This is not something that is going to work with the oneup/wolftooth big cogs. I couldn't figure out from his docs where the cog came from. No info on the shifter modification either. Seems like there is potential for a product here though, it would be nice to fix the skip shifting between 19t and 13t.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

The mod for the cassette doesn't seem to be that hard. Just finding the rear 42 tooth cog and spacer is going to be hard.


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## ikomar (Aug 21, 2010)

Hi all.

Yes, it's my 42 cog and you tube videos.

I designed de cog. Its stainless steel and lasercut. Only works with Shimano XT and SLX cassettes. Then you have a 11 speed 11-42 cassette you can use in a normal 10 speed freehub. Just like the new XTR but much cheaper.
The shifting from 36t cog to 42t cog is smooth as you can see in the videos. Here is another one from a customer:





The key of this drivetrain is that I upgrade to 11 speed same actual 10 speed shifters.

I can upgrade Sram X7, X9 and XO 10 speed trigger shifters with a new piece I call gear selector that replace the original.
The same with Sram 9 speed trigger shifters that work fine with Shimano 10s or Sram 11s rear derailleur.

For Shimano shifters I have to modify one of the internal parts of the mechanism. That's only for SLX M670, Zee and XT M770 (not actual M780)

Email me if you want more info. [email protected]

And same photos:


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## K4m1k4z3 (Jan 5, 2007)

Preston67 said:


> I assume he is talking about rivets and new screws because he is machining out the center of the 42t cog and attaching it to the cluster so that the cluster can be mounted as normal, and then the 42t cog sits closer to the spokes.


Yes, that's exactly it and it's also the reason for the 1mm freehub spacer sitting behind the cassette I believe.



Preston67 said:


> >The guy also makes a 12 spd mod for SRAM XX1. Interesting stuff.
> What the heck would the 12th gear be ?


Well, he makes another (12 speed this time) cassette for the XX1. It's 9-43T or something.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

ikomar said:


> Hi all.
> 
> Yes, it's my 42 cog and you tube videos.
> 
> ...


Hey ikomar, thanks for hopping on the forum. I was the one who posted on your vid to post your mod here. 
So, are you producing your 42 and spacer in bulk to sell? If you are, I'd be interested in what the price is...


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## ikomar (Aug 21, 2010)

Pau11y said:


> Hey ikomar, thanks for hopping on the forum. I was the one who posted on your vid to post your mod here.
> So, are you producing your 42 and spacer in bulk to sell? If you are, I'd be interested in what the price is...


Yes, I have stock now. Email me for price.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

edit: re read and found answer


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## ikomar (Aug 21, 2010)

I forget to say that the cassette also works perfectly with Sram 11s shifter and rear derailleur, as you can see in the Santa Cruz Nomad last photo.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

Thanks ikomar. Can't wait to test out your cog set.


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## ChanceG (Nov 17, 2014)

caRpetbomBer said:


> Thanks ikomar. Can't wait to test out your cog set.


Did you order his setup??


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

I have 3 bikes with either a wt 40t or one up 42t all xtr shadow plus rd. I never really dislike the shifting or had any issues.. Wondering if the rad cage is worth the money? Will it shift that much better or should I buy 16t cogs for all 3 rides instead?


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

You might want to try a 16t first, it makes the jump in gears less drastic at that end of the cassette. If shifting is acceptable, maybe you don't need the rad cage. I have a SRAM X9 RD so, I didn't have too much trouble getting the shifting right.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

ChanceG said:


> Did you order his setup??


Yes i did. Its on its way here. Can't wait to try it out.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

yeti575inCA said:


> xtr shadow plus rd. Wondering if the rad cage is worth the money?


Do you have mid or long cage derailleurs? I heard the rads are for adapting to a mid cage.


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## ChanceG (Nov 17, 2014)

caRpetbomBer said:


> Yes i did. Its on its way here. Can't wait to try it out.


 Sweet! Definitely let us know how it works out. I want to give it a try but I need a xt shimano cass since I have a sram setup. What setup are you going to be running it with? Shimano or sram?


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

ChanceG said:


> Sweet! Definitely let us know how it works out. I want to give it a try but I need a xt shimano cass since I have a sram setup. What setup are you going to be running it with? Shimano or sram?


My setup is Shimano. Shimano slx rear derailleur with rad cage. XT 11-36 I got the 42t cog from ikomar and a modified rear shimano zee shifter.


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## LCBooger (Apr 7, 2014)

I just switched to a 1x10 setup and am looking forward to trying it out. Curious what the best cassette setup is, i'm currently running XT 11x34. Also, does anyone have experience with the twenty6 42t cog?

Let me know.

*Here's what I went with
*-Twenty6 42t rear cog
-RaceFace 32t front cog
-XT 34 cassett
-XT chain


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

How is the shifting jumping from 34-42?


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## LCBooger (Apr 7, 2014)

I was a little worried about that, but it shifts great! Glad I didn't have to buy a new cassette.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Haven't seen anyone use a 34t cassette good to know. Usually it's dropping "down" off the 42 that has issues. 
After yesterday's climbfest I'll be putting a 40t on my bike soon.


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

Shimano 34t cassette works well with the e*thirteen 40t cog (it even works well with the shimano 9 speed 34t cassette)


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

TigWorld said:


> Shimano 34t cassette works well with the e*thirteen 40t cog (it even works well with the shimano 9 speed 34t cassette)


Yeah was speaking of a 34/42 jump.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

JMac47 said:


> Do you have mid or long cage derailleurs? I heard the rads are for adapting to a mid cage.


Long cage jmac


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## Raoul_Duke2k (Dec 21, 2011)

I just received my RadR cage tonight and did a replacement on my SLX long cage - pretty nice conversion. The cage is much higher quality aluminum than the stock, and noticeably shorter. I'm running a 42 in back.

If the shifting is good it'll be nice to have that extra clearance.


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## max_croft (Jan 25, 2012)

Finally completed the 1 x 10 conversion. Look forward to testing it out soon!


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

yeti575inCA said:


> Long cage jmac


Nice.


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

I've been running the RAD cage since it came out. Shifting is smooth like butter with a WT 40t in the back.


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## thecanoe (Jan 30, 2007)

Will the Rad cage work with XT Shadow non clutch dérailleur or do I not need it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

thecanoe said:


> Will the Rad cage work with XT Shadow non clutch dérailleur or do I not need it?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I pretty sure that it only works with shadow +. CRC has XT shadow + for $62 and change right now...great deal.


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

yes, only clutch derailleurs


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## thecanoe (Jan 30, 2007)

Does the clutch dérailleur stiffen the shifting pressure required to make a shift? I love the light action of the standard XT shadow on my TALLBOY and want to duplicate it on a fat bike build. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

thecanoe said:


> Does the clutch dérailleur stiffen the shifting pressure required to make a shift? I love the light action of the standard XT shadow on my TALLBOY and want to duplicate it on a fat bike build.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't notice a difference between the two. It's more in the shifter.


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

With an XT shifter and Zee rear derailleur, shifting is noticeably harder with the clutch on than without it.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

I'm running XT derailleur and Zee shifter and find the lever stiffer and harder to push than my xt/xt but just as crisp.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

I have to post up.
I did a one stop shop at OneUp and picked up 32t NW chainring, the RADr cage kit, and the 42t cassette conversion kit w/ 16t cog.
I left my XTR rear derailleur attached to the hanger. I made it so easy to replace the cage. In fact when I put the wheel back in with the new cassette it was still indexed perfectly and only required about a half turn on the b screw.
The 3 year old slx shifter may be a little harder to push but I am overdue for new cable and shifter.
The 16t cog shifts great. Maybe a very little hesitation while shifting on the stand, but not while riding. Overall shifts as good as it ever has with a slx shifter and xtr rear der.
I went from a long cage shimano to the RADr cage and did not need to adjust the chain length. Maybe the repositioning of the upper jockey wheel took up the slack.. I don't know, but it woks great.
I think it is a great bang for the buck improvement and was an convenient and affordable way for me to realize the benefits of a full range 1x.
They even provided matching spacers that allowed me to use my 3x crankset and chain ring hardware, there was nothing else to buy or adapt.
I got the opportunity to ride the piss out of it a couple of times now and the RADr cage shifting is as good as the original xtr cage.
Specifically better for me is when I grab for my bail out gear. With the 3x set up it was one click of the left finger to drop the front from 32 to 24, combined with a click of the right finger to drop the rear from 36 to 32. This 'double clutch' action on occasion cause a dropped chain. 
I just wanted to post up that this was super easy and don't feel intimidated.


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

TigWorld said:


> With an XT shifter and Zee rear derailleur, shifting is noticeably harder with the clutch on than without it.


you can always decrease the clutch amount ... I use half turn less than what came with the derailleur on mine ...


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## UPSed (Dec 26, 2010)

dimitrin said:


> I have to post up.
> I did a one stop shop at OneUp and picked up 32t NW chainring, the RADr cage kit, and the 42t cassette conversion kit w/ 16t cog.
> I left my XTR rear derailleur attached to the hanger. I made it so easy to replace the cage. In fact when I put the wheel back in with the new cassette it was still indexed perfectly and only required about a half turn on the b screw.
> The 3 year old slx shifter may be a little harder to push but I am overdue for new cable and shifter.
> ...


Thanks so much for posting this. I have been following this thread for awhile and you're the first one that's convinced me to give it a shot. Thanks again.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

For newly bought rds for installation of radr, which is more practical to consider. SLX or XT?

what I'm thinking is the radr installation will blur the difference between SLX and XT rd. Take note I'm only talking about rd here (ie no shifters involved)


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

Davide said:


> you can always decrease the clutch amount ... I use half turn less than what came with the derailleur on mine ...


Good point.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

UPSed said:


> Thanks so much for posting this. I have been following this thread for awhile and you're the first one that's convinced me to give it a shot. Thanks again.


Absolutely. 
It was all super easy and when I did have a question I emailed them. They responded back quickly and answered all questions promptly.
lol, I just hope I haven't jinxed myself.



spyghost said:


> For newly bought rds for installation of radr, which is more practical to consider. SLX or XT?
> 
> what I'm thinking is the radr installation will blur the difference between SLX and XT rd. Take note I'm only talking about rd here (ie no shifters involved)


The clutch is what is important. That being said, XT may be more durable in the long run.


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

So there is a 1x9 thread going on. I am 2x9 right now with 11-34 out back. I want to go 1x but can't afford the entire new drivetrain needed. I am thinking of absolute black 26t in 64 spot and if there is a 9 speed cassette that will work with a GC awesome. 

Also would two n/w chain rings fit on a 2x crank? Then I could manually move chain when needed for totally flat or doing downhill. I know I need the 26t and 40t combo for low range to equal my current 22t 34t low.


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## eimart (Apr 15, 2010)

Why almost everyone here is using Shimano Zee Shifter ? 
I am planning to go 1x10 in my Shimano XTR Setup.
Can i keep my XTR Rear Shifter or will i have problems with it ?

Thanks


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## kevocastro (Sep 23, 2011)

eimart said:


> Why almost everyone here is using Shimano Zee Shifter ?
> I am planning to go 1x10 in my Shimano XTR Setup.
> Can i keep my XTR Rear Shifter or will i have problems with it ?
> 
> Thanks


Because Zee is cheap, and also as a rear shifter only


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

eimart said:


> Why almost everyone here is using Shimano Zee Shifter ?
> I am planning to go 1x10 in my Shimano XTR Setup.
> Can i keep my XTR Rear Shifter or will i have problems with it ?
> 
> Thanks


Use your old shifter and leave the derailleur on the hanger while you change the cage.


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## eimart (Apr 15, 2010)

kevocastro said:


> Because Zee is cheap, and also as a rear shifter only


Thanks for the reply. 
I Thought that because almost everyone was using Zee, maybe XTR was fragile or something like that to pull to 42T Chainring.
I think i will keep my XTR iSpec rear shifter.

Thanks


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## eimart (Apr 15, 2010)

dimitrin said:


> Use your old shifter and leave the derailleur on the hanger while you change the cage.


Do i have to change the cage ? 
I am planning to use this setup:
- Wolftooth 42T GC Cog for Shimano - Black 42T
- Wolftooth 104 BCD Chainrings - 104 x 32T
- Wolftooth 16 Tooth Cog

And my rear deraileur is a Shimano XTR M986 Shadow+.

Is it necessary to change the XTR cage to Oneup RADr Derailleur Cage ?


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## UPSed (Dec 26, 2010)

eimart said:


> Is it necessary to change the XTR cage to Oneup RADr Derailleur Cage ?


I tried it without the RAD cage first (XT) and there was barely enough clearance between the top pulley and the 42T. Installed the RAD cage and now it's near perfect. Did a ride yesterday and it shifts as well from 36 to 42 as it does from 32 to 36. Very crisp and clean shifts.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

tundratrader said:


> So there is a 1x9 thread going on. I am 2x9 right now with 11-34 out back. I want to go 1x but can't afford the entire new drivetrain needed. I am thinking of absolute black 26t in 64 spot and if there is a 9 speed cassette that will work with a GC awesome.
> 
> Also would two n/w chain rings fit on a 2x crank? Then I could manually move chain when needed for totally flat or doing downhill. I know I need the 26t and 40t combo for low range to equal my current 22t 34t low.


You may be able to get away with a 12-36t 9spd cassette. Be a cheaper way to start with to see if it works for your riding.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

UPSed said:


> I tried it without the RAD cage first (XT) and there was barely enough clearance between the top pulley and the 42T. Installed the RAD cage and now it's near perfect. Did a ride yesterday and it shifts as well from 36 to 42 as it does from 32 to 36. Very crisp and clean shifts.


That's what's odd about this whole thread. I'm currently running XT clutched RD stock without any issues. All I did was reverse the B screw.


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## UPSed (Dec 26, 2010)

Not sure how I'd reverse the B-screw? Anyways I believe the purpose of the RAD cage is to prevent you from having to max out or reverse the B-screw.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

UPSed said:


> Not sure how I'd reverse the B-screw? Anyways I believe the purpose of the RAD cage is to prevent you from having to max out or reverse the B-screw.


Before bringing the RAD(r) cage and "longer" B screw into the mix, some mods ran it from the opposite side to have the head create a bigger surface on the stop.


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

UPSed said:


> Not sure how I'd reverse the B-screw? Anyways I believe the purpose of the RAD cage is to prevent you from having to max out or reverse the B-screw.


Yes, you should not reverse the B-screw when using the RAD or RAD-r cage.

Reversing the B-screw was necessary on some bikes to further increase the derailleur body angle. With the One-Up cages you do not need to do that. On my set up (either with RAD or RADr, see http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...ks/oneup-rad-vs-radr-short-review-942254.html) the B-screw is quite far from maximum (as it should).


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## Tikiguy (Nov 18, 2010)

Just got back from my first ride with the new RadR mod. Thanks One Up, tight crisp and accurate, just like XTR should be. Added bonus was ending up with a shorter cage too. I'm wet, cold and smiling!


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

UPSed said:


> Not sure how I'd reverse the B-screw? Anyways I believe the purpose of the RAD cage is to prevent you from having to max out or reverse the B-screw.





JMac47 said:


> Before bringing the RAD(r) cage and "longer" B screw into the mix, some mods ran it from the opposite side to have the head create a bigger surface on the stop.


Ding Ding, just unscrew it and screw it back in from the other side. Pretty simple.


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## Raoul_Duke2k (Dec 21, 2011)

Just put on the OneUp 42, RadR and their narrow wide 30t up front. Rode it for the first time today in fairly muddy and rocky conditions and it worked spot on. No chain drops, shifting up to 42 was very good. I love how quiet the drivetrain is now - never realized how much noise a front D makes.


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## idok (Aug 21, 2008)

*zee & 42t*

hi,

can i use this setup zee

with cog 42 t

or i need to Change the Rear deraileur.

thanks.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

idok said:


> hi,
> 
> can i use this setup zee
> 
> ...


Yes, but you need one of these: OneUp Components US - RADr Cage


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## idok (Aug 21, 2008)

*This set up will work*

hi,

What You Say About this set up will work ?

ONE UP Narrow Wide 
SRAM X7 Type 2 MTB Rear Derailleur Midium Cage 10 Speed
SRAM-APEX-PG-1050-11-36T-10-speed-Bike-Cassette
ONE UP 42T Sprocket + 16T
KMC X10L

Rear Trigger Shifter X9 from Year 2009.

Thanks.

ido


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## GSPChilliwack (Jul 30, 2013)

Anyone out there directly compared the shift quality between the 40 and 42? I'm planning to go Radr Cage, and Race Face Turbine Cinch crank with direct mount NW. 

I assume it doesn't matter the length of cage I start with? I'm using an XT long-cage with clutch.


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

I run a 42 with a 36 cassette, and a 40 with a 34 cassette. The ratios match up better.

Maybe I'm lucky, but I've never experienced a degradation of shifting quality when putting those saucers on the back, but many guys have.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

Only experienced 42. It is as smooth as any of the other shifts on a XT cassette, possibly a slight increase in trigger press. But only slight.
I am really digging my One Up set up.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

with the RADr you will replace the entire cage so it does not matter.


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

UtahJohn said:


> I run a 42 with a 36 cassette, and a 40 with a 34 cassette. The ratios match up better.
> 
> Maybe I'm lucky, but I've never experienced a degradation of shifting quality when putting those saucers on the back, but many guys have.


I liked the smaller jump in ratio that comes from using the 40t. But then again, I was still recovering from a broken leg at the time and pretty much every extended climb was a struggle. (Swapped from 32x42 to 30x40)

But I think that the tighter your ratios are, the better...and another benefit is that your chain is just marginally shorter and shifting improves just that tiny bit.

It's all a compromise that you could nerd out on forever or just get a 30t chainring and a 42t cog and call it a day.


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## SirHades (Jan 9, 2015)

Hi everyone.
After reading this forum for so long, I had to finally setup an account to thank you guys.
I converted my 3x9 setup to a 1x10 with OneUp components' solution (chainring, sprocket, RADr cage) thanks to all the info I found in this thread.
Had a wee ride on monday up the hills behind my house and it's amazing.
It's simple, clean and silent when riding. Couldn't be happier with it.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

SirHades said:


> Hi everyone.
> After reading this forum for so long, I had to finally setup an account to thank you guys.
> I converted my 3x9 setup to a 1x10 with OneUp components' solution (chainring, sprocket, RADr cage) thanks to all the info I found in this thread.
> Had a wee ride on monday up the hills behind my house and it's amazing.
> ...


Very nice! But I don't think your 1x10 conversion is really done until you get some green rims, seat, stem and grips to match!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## matadorCE (Jun 26, 2013)

Just ordered the 40T and 16T Wolf Tooth cogs for my 2x10 X9 set-up. I think with this i'll have a low enough range in the big ring for most flat trails and even more low range on the small ring for the trails with steep climbs.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

I'm building a new bike in the next month and want to go 1x10 for this build. Here's what I've got so far...

RF NW 32t
Sram 11x36
Sram X0 rear derailleur medium cage
KMC X10SL DLC chain

Trying to decide what Wolftooth extended cog to go with. My gut says 40t with 16t because I think the shifting will be smoother than a 42t when dropping down to the 36t. Any opinions?


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

I'd say go with 42t, it should be fairly easy and straight forward with the SRAM setup, it certainly was with mine.

the 16t is a good idea though. I don't notice the gap between 42t & 36t, but I did with 19t -> 15t unti lI changed it to 16t.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Isildur said:


> I'd say go with 42t, it should be fairly easy and straight forward with the SRAM setup, it certainly was with mine.
> 
> the 16t is a good idea though. I don't notice the gap between 42t & 36t, but I did with 19t -> 15t unti lI changed it to 16t.


So when shifting down from the 42t to the 36t you found it shifted nice and smooth? I'm not really worried with shifting down further from the 36t based on what I have read, especially with the addition of the 16t.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

Yep, goes smoothly into and out of the 42t for me. I have tweaked my chainline very slightly with washers, to put the 35t ring further in-board, but this is as I've got it installed on a 2x crank on the outer position. The tweak was to prevent the chain dorpping off during back pedaling.

Although, I do have an XT Cassette, sorry I didn't notice that difference before.


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## Ntmboy (Nov 10, 2010)

After about 1500 miles on my OneUp 40T cog, I had about 5/16" chain stretch and decided to install a new one (Sram 1070), whereupon I immediately got skipping on the 40T while mashing. Upon inquiry, OneUp customer service informed me that "1500 miles is an acceptable mileage for a cog to wear out" (the other cogs on the cassette have about 5x the mileage and no issues). They also advised me to replace the cog, so I ordered an new one... from Wolf Tooth. I'm hoping that steel lasts longer than aluminum.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

Ntmboy said:


> so I ordered an new one... from Wolf Tooth. I'm hoping that steel lasts longer than aluminum.


Umm, my Wolftooth is most certainly aluminium. Lovely Red Anodised Aluminium.


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## Ntmboy (Nov 10, 2010)

From the Wolf Tooth faq:

"Q: How much does the GC weigh?

A: 42T= 86g, 40T= 79g. This is about 10g more than the competition but an aluminum cog is NOT a place you want to save weight! For good shifting and durability, our cog has been designed to be very strong and rigid, not just lightweight. We put on a lot of test miles and added strength where needed based on what we learned. Don't sacrifice performance for a few grams."

I read this to indicate that only the competition was aluminimum, but I now see that this may not be so. May be I just wasted another $70, time will tell.


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## OneRider (Jan 5, 2015)

al-r said:


> ^^^ realistically, Shimano doesn't sell 16t cogs either, at least in North America. Most people are just scavenging them from an old cassette.


Digging up an old part of this thread...after reading this I found that CBO had the Shimano 16t single cogs for 9 speed cassettes for $1.34 (although they are now not on their website for some reason, they have lots of other single Shimano cogs). Picked one up this weekend, put it in my 10 speed XT cassette and it shifts beautifully with my 1x10 set up. Slight hesitation when in the bike stand shifting down but the shifting was great on an 18-mi ride.

MUCH better than the the OneUp 16t cogs that I tried. The first one I got didn't work, so they sent me another one (great customer service) but it didn't work either. With those the chain just rode up onto the tops of the teeth no matter how I clocked it and whether I put it in a SRAM or Shimano cassette. Their 42t works great, but the 16t was worthless for me with my Shimano 10 spd chain on either cassette.

So my conclusion is that if you have a Shimano 10-spd cassette on your 1x10, then the Shimano 16t cog is the way to go if you can find one, even though it is from the 9-spd cassette. Maybe the Wolftooth one will work better than OneUp's, I don't know.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Ntmboy said:


> From the Wolf Tooth faq:
> 
> "Q: How much does the GC weigh?
> 
> ...


No company makes a steel 42T. SRAM uses aluminum on the 42T with their X01/XX1 cassettes. Same with Shimano with the new 11-40 XTR. The 40T is made of aluminum.

We'll have to see what Shimano will do when their 11sp eventually trickles down to XT and SLX. If its all steel...it'll be one fairly heavy cassette.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

RS VR6 said:


> No company makes a steel 42T.


Sure ikomar makes i 42 tooth stainless steel cog for a 11speed setup. I'm in the works of setting it up.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Is he one guy making them one at a time?

I'm talking about something on a larger scale.

There's also MTB tools on eBay...he makes a 41T in steel for 40 bucks. Weighs almost as much as my entire cassette.

Wouldn't the steel be more prone to bending? There has to be another reason why Shimano and SRAM chose to go with aluminum for the large cog besides weight?


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## Eastcoastroots (Mar 23, 2014)

Yeah, I bet weight will be fairly decent for such a large steel cog - although I doubt very noticeable when riding.


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## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

I kind of find it interesting that people are concerned about aluminum 40 and 42T cogs yet they don't think twice about aluminum 28/30/32/34T N/W chainrings that see by design *way* more wear and tear than the large cogs.


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## winsail (Dec 27, 2007)

Just thought I would share my long term review of my wolfstooth shimano rear 42T and race face front 30T narrow wide. I now have 1000+ miles and over 8 months on this set-up and it still has many more to go, shifts flawlessly and does not need to be replaced anytime soon. You want a steel cog why?


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## ikomar (Aug 21, 2010)

Actually I'm making small batches of 50 each time. I will receive a new one next week for example.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

I remember sometime back in this thread someone mentioned the Twenty6 Products Cog, which made me do a Google search for it. I'm well aware of this company based out of Bozeman MT but didn't remember they made an extended cog. Has anyone tried this cog? Any thoughts about it. It definitely looks well made and there is a plethora of colors to choose from.


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## JbernardDanville (Dec 25, 2014)

Adding to the list of comments noting how great the OneUp conversion is. I have a new Bronson S Build that comes with a Shimano 2x10. As the parts are new I opted conversion to a Race Face single/narrow 32 and a OneUp 40T cog in the back. I put this on last week and went on a couple rides. Yes, it's harder pushing up hill, but not much and it'll force me to get stronger at climber, right now my weak spot. Bike weight doesn't mean much to me but not having to think about the left (front) **** is nice: plus no more chain slap from rolling in the granny gear. 

The system worked great as-is however was a little jumpy (loud) while down shifting. I read up on the OneUp Rad Cage; I should have bought/installed this from the get go - oh well. I installed the new Cage today and all the write ups are right! It shifts even better (as smooth as it did stock). I couldn't be happier. It a great, cost effective solution for those looking to change to a 1x system using existing parts.


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## Rivet (Sep 3, 2004)

OneRider said:


> Digging up an old part of this thread...after reading this I found that CBO had the Shimano 16t single cogs for 9 speed cassettes for $1.34 (although they are now not on their website for some reason, they have lots of other single Shimano cogs). Picked one up this weekend, put it in my 10 speed XT cassette and it shifts beautifully with my 1x10 set up. Slight hesitation when in the bike stand shifting down but the shifting was great on an 18-mi ride.
> 
> MUCH better than the the OneUp 16t cogs that I tried. The first one I got didn't work, so they sent me another one (great customer service) but it didn't work either. With those the chain just rode up onto the tops of the teeth no matter how I clocked it and whether I put it in a SRAM or Shimano cassette. Their 42t works great, but the 16t was worthless for me with my Shimano 10 spd chain on either cassette.
> 
> So my conclusion is that if you have a Shimano 10-spd cassette on your 1x10, then the Shimano 16t cog is the way to go if you can find one, even though it is from the 9-spd cassette. Maybe the Wolftooth one will work better than OneUp's, I don't know.


Yep, One Up 16t cog is worthless. If I can't find a Shimano 16t cog I'm ditching the whole One Up setup (42 cog, RadR cage) anybody want to buy these low mileage?


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Rivet said:


> Yep, One Up 16t cog is worthless. If I can't find a Shimano 16t cog I'm ditching the whole One Up setup (42 cog, RadR cage) anybody want to buy these low mileage?


Try to get the shimano 10 speed 16t cog. I tried the 16t 9 speed cog from shimano and didn't really like the way it shifted. The 10 speed one seems to work much better(after you cut out one of the notches so you can clock it 180 degrees to line up the shift ramps)


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

I had my cassette off so I decided to try the 17t cog my cassette came with instead of the OneUp 16t just to see how it would perform going from 13-17. It shifted great! No hang-ups and I didn't notice the jump in gears.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Rivet said:


> Yep, One Up 16t cog is worthless. If I can't find a Shimano 16t cog I'm ditching the whole One Up setup (42 cog, RadR cage) anybody want to buy these low mileage?


Since the One UP 16t cog is no good, would the Wolftooth 16t cog be the way to go? Also, can you use a Shimano 16t cog on a Sram cassette?


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

kevinboyer said:


> would the Wolftooth 16t cog be the way to go? Also, can you use a Shimano 16t cog on a Sram cassette?


Sorry to hear that you guys have had issues while running the OneUp 16T. The vast majority of concerns we've seen are on Shimano RD's without our RAD conversion. The improvement seen by adding the RAD or RADr cage is night and day in the 11-13-16-19 range.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

Oneup, your 16t seems to be hit or miss. I do know that the way you have it indexed the shift ramps don't line up. Also the shift ramps are not as well defined as the remainder of the cassette. My 16t seems to work OK, but obviously many are still having an issue, and fact I have seen other set ups with your 16t not perform well.
It might help if you index the splines of the cog to actually line up the shift ramps.
It is good to see you keeping tabs on this forum... it would be even better to see some 16t cog product improvements that eliminate this variable that plagues many riders.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

Rivet said:


> Yep, One Up 16t cog is worthless. If I can't find a Shimano 16t cog I'm ditching the whole One Up setup (42 cog, RadR cage) anybody want to buy these low mileage?


Pm me i may be interested..


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

dimitrin said:


> Oneup, your 16t seems to be hit or miss. I do know that the way you have it indexed the shift ramps don't line up. Also the shift ramps are not as well defined as the remainder of the cassette. My 16t seems to work OK, but obviously many are still having an issue, and fact I have seen other set ups with your 16t not perform well.
> It might help if you index the splines of the cog to actually line up the shift ramps.
> It is good to see you keeping tabs on this forum... it would be even better to see some 16t cog product improvements that eliminate this variable that plagues many riders.


I too am glad to see OneUp taking interest to what is said here. I am one who indeed has used their 16t with zero problems and am also using their RAD cage.


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## BergMann (Jan 10, 2007)

RS VR6 said:


> No company makes a steel 42T. SRAM uses aluminum on the 42T with their X01/XX1 cassettes. Same with Shimano with the new 11-40 XTR. The 40T is made of aluminum.
> 
> We'll have to see what Shimano will do when their 11sp eventually trickles down to XT and SLX. If its all steel...it'll be one fairly heavy cassette.


There is no mystery here: aluminum is relatively cheap and easy to machine, but titanium is not, steel is heavy as hell for larger cogs & rings - even SRAM realized they couldn't get it light enough with their billet-machining method, so they pressed on an aluminum 42T to finish off the lower 10 cogs of the "dome" unit.

1x11 has debuted at the bleeding edge of big $$$ componentry. SRAM & Shimano are going to go for performance over durability, and since weight is the primary performance metric for upgrading to XX and XTR level components, aluminum 42T gets the nod.

As for Shimano's trickle down strategy, they'll do what they always do: XT will mirror XTR but with steel instead of titanium cogs. SLX will have a simpler/cheaper/heavier carrier architecture. Both will continue with aluminum 42T cogs for the same reason Shimano's chainrings are made of aluminum.


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## Preston67 (Mar 20, 2008)

I wish they would make that big cog replaceable because if its like my experience with the aftermarket 40t cogs it will start skipping the minute you put a new chain on it while the rest of the cassette has hundreds of miles left on it.


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## BergMann (Jan 10, 2007)

1x11 is an arms race to the bottom of your wallet. Aluminum big cogs on $400 cassettes?
No thanks. 
It's already hard to justify $150+ for the last generation of faster-wearing XTR or Dura Ace Ti cassettes, since Ti about halfway between aluminum & steel on the Vicker's hardness scale.

Enough griping, & back on topic: thanks to all who've contributed to this thread with their experiences. 
It's good to know that the OneUp cage replacement makes a significant improvement in shift quality with this conversion.


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

Ok boys and girls here is the gospel truth as to what happened to me yesterday riding parallel trail at Mendocino. Third ride on my tall boy lt that I had my professional wrencher who does things right convert from 11-36 and a triple all m771 to a double 24-36 with a one up 40 toother. All shifting was perfect until on a mild climb on my 36 front I wanted to stand and climb so I clicked down two on the back. Well in a fraction of a moment my pretty new slx rear deraillier literally was eaten. The jockey wheels get the chain down two the new spot in a flash but because the ramps are out of synch the rest of the chain was held up on the 40 toother. Totally destruction of deraillier and of course the hangar. The one up is coming off and they need to make brand specific ramps if you are going to seriously ride.


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## mayonays (Oct 22, 2010)

cyclopath1000 said:


> they need to make brand specific ramps if you are going to seriously ride.


You put the spacer behind the cog for Shimano and in front of it for SRAM. Did your professional wrencher follow the instructions? I've friends who taken their bike + OneUp components into their LBS only to be told "that won't work on your bike". A 6-pack of beer later and I got it working just fine. 
It sounds like it could be a too small of cage on the RD or too short of chain that caused the problem.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

Well that sucks.
Maybe not a good idea to run them with a 2 ring set up. I thought the whole point was to go 1x and ditch the front derailleur.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

I agree, your 2x set up may be the problem. How is the chain line on that big ring?


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

I wasn't switching my front chain ring. I was just shifting my rear and yes it was set up exactly correct. The ramps on the one up don't allign with shimano. I ordered the wolf products. I emailed one up to complain but no response. We can go back and forth all day and night on what was or wasn't the root cause. I am simply blogging what actually happened. If one up bothered to answer their emails I probably would have first waited to see what they are planning to do. If you feel like blaming this on a two by set up go for it but I do think it's the ramps. The other manufacturers make an attempt to match the ramps these guys didn't. It was the perfect scenario for mismatched ramps to wreak havok. I don't usually blog here but I did so to get peeps who are considering this setup to pick stuff that won't cost them hundreds more such as it did for me. Yea I am super pissed but it actually was my idea to try the one up. Mike has done a bunch of wolfies without issue. If I eat my next deraillier with the wolf I will be sure to blog it as I cry into my beer.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

So what you are saying is that you were in your big ring in front and your 40t in back. Doesn't sound like the best chain line. That would also make your chain at it's tightest position and you were starting to climb thus putting more torque.

OneUp monitors these boards, why don't you PM them.


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

I agree it wasn't the "best " chain line. And as I said if it happens with the wolf I will post it. I try to ride a lot in my bigger chainring. I don't care for sitting and spinning unless I have no other alternative. I've been riding for years on a 32 -36 combo with my triples. I sort of think it would have happened if it was a 1x10. But unless my son destroys his new 1x10 on his new enduro that I put a 42 on one we won't know. But I simply am not going to wait for that to happen and he is getting a wolf too. My 40 and my 42 are available to anyone who wants to lay a decent amount of change on me.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

Bro, no blame game going on here. I'm sure your pissed and it does suck, but this is just us trying to figure out what the root cause is. I have absolutely zero issues switching into and out of my 42t cog, and don't recall hearing others have issue with it. Most folks complain about the 16t. The obvious difference is your running a 2x set up. And you had someone other than yourself install it. I am also surprised Oneup hasn't responded to emails as they have answered every question I've asked with reasonable promptness.
I hope you have no further problems.


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

I certainly agree that the confusion is over the additional 2 by issue. The wrencher who put it on is a master at his craft and is recognized as such by all that interact with him. If I had put it on then even I would suspect my work first and foremost!!! Why have ramps if they don't match up!!! One part of the chain is going to move before the other, that's why there are ramps, to move the chain in a predictable manner.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

For someone who is going to go 1x10 for the first time these threads are invaluable. I've been torn between these 2 (OneUp, and Wolftooth) and I'm still no closer to making up my mind, so let me throw this into the mix. I'm planning on using the Twenty6 Products 42t cog with my Sram PG-1070 11-36 cassette. Would the Wolftooth 16t cog be a good match for this set up? Also using the Sram X0 Type 2 medium cage RD.

Black Cog


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## PlanB (Nov 22, 2007)

Do those "ramps" even play a role in dropping the chain down the cassette? I always thought they were for downshifts primarily.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

I think the ramps on a cassette are only used for when up shifting.


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## PlanB (Nov 22, 2007)

Do you mean "up the cassette" by "up shift"? If so, we're saying the same thing, and it's a downshift.


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## Rivet (Sep 3, 2004)

So, I scored a Shimano XT 10sp 16t cog after having no luck getting the One Up 16t to work and it right away shifted better than the One Up cog. I decided to try pwu_1's re-clocking idea and that helped also. it still doesn't shift as well as the Original XTR setup but I chalk that up to the 3 tooth gaps and the distance the upper pulley is away from the cassette at that point, even with the RadR cage adjusted as close as possible on the 42. I'll probably throw this setup on the Trail bike and get XX1 for this, my XC race bike as the 3 tooth gaps at this critical part of the cassette also make finding the right cadence annoying. As an aside, the 36 to 42 shifts are flawless.


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## ZHaunDK (Oct 9, 2014)

just did a One Up with Rad cage. the shifters arm (allen key bolt for the shifter cable) comes rather close to the 42t, but still about 2mm. Visibly i got concerned real fast, but i think it will work out fine.

race face 32t, xt shadow+, zee shifter, 11-42t with oneup 16t and 42t setup, and rad cage.

regarding the 16t, i don't notice it at all. No hesitation, just goes in and no probs. 

When i tuned the b screw and shifting, i had the clutch off. Seems you can get a better tune without the clutch engaged, after which, engage the clutch and what hesitations exist after your best tune are gone.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

cyclopath1000 said:


> All shifting was perfect until on a mild climb on my 36 front I wanted to stand and climb so I clicked down two on the back. Well in a fraction of a moment my pretty new slx rear deraillier literally was eaten. The jockey wheels get the chain down two the new spot in a flash but because the ramps are out of synch the rest of the chain was held up on the 40 toother. Totally destruction of deraillier and of course the hangar.


No blame, but you have to remember that you have aluminum cog and not steel. Crossing big/big sprockets where the derailleur is almost maxed sounds like something is about to go wrong. Also note that if you are worried about synched ramps, they are not synched on the smaller cogs once you remove one of them, even if you add a custom 16 cog. It's less of an issue there because the derailleur has a lot of slack.

What I would do is open the cassette myself and compare everything to the OneUp instructions. You can have a bike shop release the lockring for you if you don't have the tool, and continue from there yourself. Good mechanic or not, this is not something they do every day.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

ZHaunDK said:


> race face 32t, xt shadow+, zee shifter, 11-42t with oneup 16t and 42t setup, and rad cage./QUOTE]
> 
> My exact set up. Works flawlessly.


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

One up has graciously offered to refund me the two purchases so I have no beef with that. Whether it's the 2 by , the ramps , or the activity of sun spots on the planet,I hope that none of us have further reason to ponder. If this does happen with the wolf product then for sure it's something else. I will definately post any further big cog issues. You young ones will love the one by setups but before you are so sure of their perfection I suggest you try gas cap at mendo and tell me how that climb went. My two by is the ultimate duality!! When I feel strong I can stomp on my 36 front and as I wither I can revert to a spin on my 24. For the steepies I have 24-40 always in my pocket.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

cyclopath1000 said:


> One up has graciously offered to refund me the two purchases so I have no beef with that. Whether it's the 2 by , the ramps , or the activity of sun spots on the planet,I hope that none of us have further reason to ponder.


Wow that's pretty impressive considering all the variables. Good to hear things are moving in your favor.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

OneUp is a good company trying to do things right as far as their customer base is concerned. I am happy with their products so far and am looking forward to new innovations to come.


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

If you want to be successful as a small entrapreneur in the Information Age ya gotta make sure each and every customer is a happy camper. While people are focused on the 1 by set up there is nothing in any instructions that I could find proscribing these big cogs to one by set ups alone. Remember that shimano has either come out or will shortly come out with 3x 11 with the big cog a 40! If I was starting from scratch I would use that and change the triple to a double with 24-36.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

cyclopath1000 said:


> or the activity of sun spots on the planet


Don't even get me started on that............


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

There were a couple of zombies out there too. Maybe that's it.......I hit them with my ray gun but perhaps they got some zombie ooze on my chain.


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

So i got my chariot back on the road thanks to my expert wrench mike Berna at velocity in winters ca with the assistance of his other wrencher James. New xt shadow rear , my 2 x 10 with a new 771 cassette , chain , front chain rings on my tallboy lt with derby rims on king hubs. Now that I am ramp insane I decided to stick with the shimano middle cogs and didn't use a 16 tooth aftermarket. On one side all ramps allign and 180 degrees they flow down the 40 for about four cogs and then the pattern is more a cascade down. I rode it at Rockville regional park just now and I urge people who want to at times turn big gears and other times want to climb with a 24-40 up the steeps of places like the coastal range consider this two by instead of the one by which can only climb the steepest by Nordic gods or folks of youth and extraordinary strength. Everything felt perfect. The shifts between everywhere were flawless. I think the 24 36 is a major improvement over 22-32 and the 24- 40 puts me at equivalence , I think, to 22-36. And most of the time with the two by I can save this alloy 40 for special occasions and use my two by to spread wear over a wider range of cogs. This is all speculation on wear so please don't jump all over that statement. But I do know that the larger the wheel the more the force is dispersed and that reduces friction and heat. So both front rings are enlarged over the triple and half my front will wear faster than a single 30. But only get one half the expected use.


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

And I decided that absolute weight can't be my guiding star. To me an all mountain bike is all about ability to handle anything a real mountain (ie not say Northstar which is manufactured) can conjure up. It can handle any rock garden, switchbacks up and down, ledges if you have the skill but can otherwise roll most anything to want it to do and have the nerve to try. But yea a two by has a weight penalty. Probably 250-400 gm but I would have to weigh out some stuff. Could be more maybe.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Today I was sessioning some mild jumps in my local trails and I kept dropping my chain in the front. Like 4-5 drops.

The drops happened when landing from the jump, next pedal stroke... chain gone. The chain was in the middle of cassette (gears ~3-6) so I'm ruling out chain being too short. 

Anyone else have a similar experience or better yet... A potential fix? Is it technique? Equipment? Terrain? All or none of the above?

My setup is Specialized Camber 29 FSR, RF NW 36t, KMC gold 10x chain, WT GC 42 and SRAM X9 Type 2 RD. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

Chain guide?


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## mustardfj40 (Aug 23, 2006)

I'm running Wolf Tooth 42t cog with XTR derailleur and One up Radr cage, but here's is one of the best thing you can do: a 16t 10-speed XT cog for 6 bucks:

This 16 XT cog shifts better and cheaper than the One Up 16t, here's a pic for both of them:


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

Nice discovery. My m771 runs through odd numbers but if ya started even at 12 then that's the third. 

Notice that BOTH have two sets of races vs one for schram. Is the ramp pattern of an even toothed shimano in the correct place for an odd numbered cassette. 

The cut pattern of the alligners of the wolf seem like the cnc machine developed Parkinson's 

I'm feeling better and better about simply dropping 15 and doing 17-13. I find in a two by its sweet. One by, is the problem that is driving the desire to turn 2 teeth and then four teeth sequential change into three teeth times two. 
Without a 16 it's always gonna put a bee in your bonnet and make one by er s to dream of eleven at some point when their momentum is thrown. It ain't gonna happen with a two by. There are more equivalent pairs. I think!!!


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## PlanB (Nov 22, 2007)

mustardfj40 said:


> I'm running Wolf Tooth 42t cog with XTR derailleur and One up Radr cage, but here's is one of the best thing you can do: a 16t 10-speed XT cog for 6 bucks:
> 
> This 16 XT cog shifts better and cheaper than the One Up 16t, here's a pic for both of them:
> 
> ...


Where did you get the XT 16? They seem to be pretty difficult to source at the moment. Did you file down the big spline tab in order to rotate it and better align the shifting ramps?

I have tried a One Up 16 and shifting was really hesitant. I then modified a 9spd XT 16t cog and it was better, but it's really old and worn. I'm now using the Wolftooth 16 and it's okay -- certainly better than the One Up and about the same as the old and worn XT.

A shiny new XT 16 would be nice to try though.


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## Rivet (Sep 3, 2004)

PlanB said:


> Where did you get the XT 16? They seem to be pretty difficult to source at the moment. Did you file down the big spline tab in order to rotate it and better align the shifting ramps?
> 
> I have tried a One Up 16 and shifting was really hesitant. I then modified a 9spd XT 16t cog and it was better, but it's really old and worn. I'm now using the Wolftooth 16 and it's okay -- certainly better than the One Up and about the same as the old and worn XT.
> 
> A shiny new XT 16 would be nice to try though.


I got mine at Cambria bike. I filed the spline and rotated the ramps to align with my xtr cassette and after a bit of break in shifts almost perfect. Huge improvement on the One Up.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

fefillo said:


> Today I was sessioning some mild jumps in my local trails and I kept dropping my chain in the front. Like 4-5 drops.
> 
> The drops happened when landing from the jump, next pedal stroke... chain gone. The chain was in the middle of cassette (gears ~3-6) so I'm ruling out chain being too short.
> 
> ...


So, I was able to get these screenshots from one of my less than perfect landings... Notice the chain slapping around.

lWmACO.gif ( 735)

Does anyone think one of those plastic chainguides that go in the chainstay (like on some Stumpjumpers) would help?


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

Just watched your video. Perfect documentation ! The rear deraillier is completely not reacting to the chain tension. Now I am unsure what the reaction time should be but I venture yours isn't fast enough to take up and release chain tension. It's so extreme that i actually don't think a front chain guide is gonna make much difference. I'm more knowledgeable (and that's not a lot) of the shimano clutch on the shadow which might be fast enough to do what ya need and it was my Impression that schram has a similar innovation in their stuff. I would carefully research the rear deraillier of schram and find what you can do to increase its jockey wheel tension. Your rear wheel travel is overcoming your derailliers ability to compensate.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

I know this thread has kind of morphed into a WolfTooth/OneUp comaparo, but there's some mention in the early threads of the e13 and Hope cogs. I'm sort of feeling out how to add a 42T to my normal range 1x10- I'm not riding enough these days to stay strong enough for a 30x36 granny and no longer have a granny ring or front shifter to go back 2x. 
My whining aside, I noticed there's a few other people making extended range cogs that aren't really discussed. I did a quick MTBR search, and an at-large google search but don't really see any one talking about them. I'm fairly sure there's a reason for that, Caveat Emptor and all that, but wanted to see if anyone here has tried them and can report back why they're not a good purchase.

Alero Full CNC 40 42T Sprocket Cassettes 5 Colors | eBay
Mts 42T 16T Sprocket Extended Range GC Cog for Shimano 11 36 10 Speed Cassettes | eBay
RSP Expansion Expander Cassette Sprocket Cog 42T MTB Mountain Bike 42 Teeth | eBay

If anyone feels like this doesn't belong here, let me know, I'll delete the post and make a new thread in the Drivetrain forum.


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

I was in Sedona a few weeks ago and over the edge carried the hope versions and as usual with hope stuff it looked visually fine. As per the ramp issues that I have mentioned I would have to re inspect. As I've previously stated its actually all about the ramps. Remember if ya go to a 42 it's six teeth jump. If you don't do a lot of fire roads and are stuck with the one by consider 28 front and a 40 rear which is only four teeth in the rear. If totally desperate even 26-40 will get ya up more. The one by s are meant for elite strong young light gods. All others should doa two by. Yea that's just my opinion.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

ARandomBiker said:


> I know this thread has kind of morphed into a WolfTooth/OneUp comaparo, but there's some mention in the early threads of the e13 and Hope cogs. I'm sort of feeling out how to add a 42T to my normal range 1x10- I'm not riding enough these days to stay strong enough for a 30x36 granny and no longer have a granny ring or front shifter to go back 2x.
> My whining aside, I noticed there's a few other people making extended range cogs that aren't really discussed. I did a quick MTBR search, and an at-large google search but don't really see any one talking about them. I'm fairly sure there's a reason for that, Caveat Emptor and all that, but wanted to see if anyone here has tried them and can report back why they're not a good purchase.
> 
> Alero Full CNC 40 42T Sprocket Cassettes 5 Colors | eBay
> ...


I'm not sure i understand you question, but l would suggest you read at least the last ten pages of this thread. Very few people on this thread have had any problems with jumping into or out of the 42t cog, I would definitely pick a model that has shift ramps, the slightly recessed areas cut into the face of the cog that assist in raising the chain onto the teeth of that cog.
I personally have no problems shifting from 36 to 42 or vice versa. None, zilch. And this is while hammer in up ledges and roots.
Also I am 50 years old, not young and not a god. I use a single 32 up front and find this set up to be excellent. The reality is that I only grab for the 42t as a bail out. This 1x set up replaced my 3x10... the 32 front x 42 rear equals my previous 24 front 32 rear of the 3x set up.
Most people that have issues are having issues with replacing their 15t and 17t with a 16t.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

dimitrin said:


> I'm not sure i understand you question, but l would suggest you read at least the last ten pages of this thread.


I've been subscribed to this thread for almost 3 months now.



ARandomBiker said:


> *I noticed there's a few other people making extended range cogs that aren't really discussed. I'm fairly sure there's a reason for that, Caveat Emptor and all, but wanted to see if anyone here has tried them and can report back why they're not a good purchase.*
> 
> Alero Full CNC 40 42T Sprocket Cassettes 5 Colors | eBay
> Mts 42T 16T Sprocket Extended Range GC Cog for Shimano 11 36 10 Speed Cassettes | eBay
> RSP Expansion Expander Cassette Sprocket Cog 42T MTB Mountain Bike 42 Teeth | eBay





dimitrin said:


> I would definitely pick a model that has shift ramps, the slightly recessed areas cut into the face of the cog that assist in raising the chain onto the teeth of that cog.


So what's the difference between a WT/OU cog and any of the 3 I linked?

I'm not trying to make this contentious. I went to eBay to look for a 16T Shimano cog and crawled my way over to the 3 other brands I linked above. They're CNC aluminum, have shift ramps and look pretty similar to the well-known brands... It got me curious why no one's talking about them.. especially for the price.


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## keen (Jan 13, 2004)

ARandomBiker said:


> I've been subscribed to this thread for almost 3 months now.
> 
> So what's the difference between a WT/OU cog and any of the 3 I linked?
> 
> I'm not trying to make this contentious. I went to eBay to look for a 16T Shimano cog and crawled my way over to the 3 other brands I linked above. They're CNC aluminum, have shift ramps and look pretty similar to the well-known brands... It got me curious why no one's talking about them.. especially for the price.


I am looking into purchasing an extended range cog and too saw the cog's on ebay. I am a bit leery to purchase those based on experiences w/ other overseas components. I'd much rather find reviews and have some sort of customer support over saving $20.


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

I was fortunate enough to get two Shimano 16t ten speed cogs. It took a few months. Anyway, at first it would hesitate every once in awhile but, after being used for awhile, it shifts very smoothly. I have a wolftooth 30 in the front, a wolftooth 40 in the rear matched up to an XT cassette and XT 16T.


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

Fifty is young next to me and yea I can ride with those half my age who are in shape but there are limitations to the one by. I find I can climb most anything with 24-32 or 24-36 but there comes a pitch such as big hill at Rockville , some part of the hole , gas cap and beyond at mendo, that it simply won't work, for me of course. I once did the hole with a guy on a single speed so yea it does help to weigh 60 kg and be 28 yo. If the person who is posting on the shimano xt cog could show a pic installed with the ramps visible especially on both sides I would super appreciate it.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

ARandomBiker said:


> I've been subscribed to this thread for almost 3 months now.


Well my friend then you know as much as I do on the subject, I've posted all I've figured out here in that time frame.
If saving some coin is your goal, pick one that looks well machined, has a seller with good feedback, message him about returns if faulty and if you feel comfortable pull the trigger and report back your findings.
That's basically what I did with my OneUp conversion, and I'd be interested as well how the $20 cheaper eBay cog works out.


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## Co-opski (Oct 24, 2013)

cyclopath1000 said:


> snip...... The one by s are meant for elite strong young light gods. All others should do a two by. Yea that's just my opinion.


Thanks for bosting my self assurance. I often think of myself as a burnt out ski bum that drinks good beer.

I'm dropping my xt non-clutch rear mech for a saint + with a Radr cage for my wolftooth 42 setup. BTW I dropped the small 11T cog. :thumbsup:


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

If I hadn't slid into a tree off to the side of granite chief and broke a bunch of bones as well as a big buckle handle tear on yet more sugarbowl ice twenty plus years ago maybe I would feel otherwise about a one by.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

fefillo said:


> So, I was able to get these screenshots from one of my less than perfect landings... Notice the chain slapping around.
> 
> lWmACO.gif ( 735)
> 
> Does anyone think one of those plastic chainguides that go in the chainstay (like on some Stumpjumpers) would help?


Man, good job catching video of that!
It looks like the rear derailleur is not keeping up with chain tension, and/or your chain is too long.
I would triple check that rear derailleur installation/operation and chain length.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

Co-opski said:


> I'm dropping my xt non-clutch rear mech for a saint + with a Radr cage for my wolftooth 42 setup. BTW I dropped the small 11T cog. :thumbsup:


That keeps it simple! :thumbsup:


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

TwoTone said:


> That's what's odd about this whole thread. I'm currently running XT clutched RD stock without any issues. All I did was reverse the B screw.


I think the issue is different bike makers have slightly different Derailleur hanger positions.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

fefillo said:


> Today I was sessioning some mild jumps in my local trails and I kept dropping my chain in the front. Like 4-5 drops.
> 
> The drops happened when landing from the jump, next pedal stroke... chain gone. The chain was in the middle of cassette (gears ~3-6) so I'm ruling out chain being too short.
> 
> ...


clutch rd's are not a fail safe against dropped chains. sure they help a ton, but sometimes you will still need a minimal chain retention device. dh guys still use both. make sure your chain is of proper length 1st then i'd crank the clutch down and as a last resort look into a retention device. also, i know you said you wer in mid cassette, but the larger the cog the better the chain stays put. this really isn't practical as you're hucking down the mtn, but just saying


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

dimitrin said:


> Man, good job catching video of that!
> It looks like the rear derailleur is not keeping up with chain tension, and/or your chain is too long.
> I would triple check that rear derailleur installation/operation and chain length.


Having watched this gif a bunch I kinda think this too. The RD should be pulling back, taking up the slack of the chain, but my guess is that with all the extra links, the weight and inertia is enough to 'balance' the tension of the cage spring and clutch, which is why the cage looks like it just hangs in place and the chain slaps around. Less links, less weight, less inertia. Plus you start with the cage in a forward position that is more able to counter the forces in the first place.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Did my conversion today with WolfTooth 42 and 16T, RAD cage, and all XT components (11-36, Shadow+ GS, and shifter). So far so good, though it does seem slightly slow in and out of the 16T. I've got a 34T Raceface NW out front. 

Can't wait to get it out on the trails!


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

fefillo said:


> So, I was able to get these screenshots from one of my less than perfect landings... Notice the chain slapping around.
> 
> lWmACO.gif ( 735)
> 
> Does anyone think one of those plastic chainguides that go in the chainstay (like on some Stumpjumpers) would help?


Yes, they help a lot. The only problem is that they are very flimsy and the base breaks. If you find a good one let me know. The specialized guides are nice and sturdy, but they are part of the chainstay protector molded specifically for the bike.

Other things that help are to make sure you use the shortest derailleur cage as possible (for a 1x10 giant cogs its normally med cage), have clutch on, and the chain should be cut correctly (accounting for suspension travel).


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

fefillo said:


> So, I was able to get these screenshots from one of my less than perfect landings... Notice the chain slapping around.
> 
> lWmACO.gif ( 735)
> 
> Does anyone think one of those plastic chainguides that go in the chainstay (like on some Stumpjumpers) would help?


See if you can get one the Specialized chain stay protectors with the dangler to fit your frame.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

ARandomBiker said:


> Having watched this gif a bunch I kinda think this too. The RD should be pulling back, taking up the slack of the chain, but my guess is that with all the extra links, the weight and inertia is enough to 'balance' the tension of the cage spring and clutch, which is why the cage looks like it just hangs in place and the chain slaps around. Less links, less weight, less inertia. Plus you start with the cage in a forward position that is more able to counter the forces in the first place.


I can't take any more links because of the 42t. There is also minimal chain growth in this FSR suspension. So most of the rear derailleur movement is not caused by the suspension, but I think by inertia (ie the weight of the cage itself making it want to keep moving when the bike suddenly lands).

My LBS had a specialized chain dangler laying around that they let me have so hopefully that will do it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

Looks like you already received one, but as a cheap trial n error deal you could use 2 of the beefier zip ties to check and see if this would be a solution. The 36"-48" zips that are often used in hvac. Make loop of a couple inches to start (adjustment will be needed) and zip that tight onto chainstay and viola. Some experimentation required.


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## fireborg (Oct 31, 2004)

I have both a 40T and 42T Wolf for Sram and Shimano respectively. I can interchange them with my sram 1070 12-36 and my 11-13 980 xtr with minor adjustments. I run a 42/32/22 crankset. Haven't had any problems with any of the set ups.


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## Ntmboy (Nov 10, 2010)

Ntmboy said:


> After about 1500 miles on my OneUp 40T cog, I had about 5/16" chain stretch and decided to install a new one (Sram 1070), whereupon I immediately got skipping on the 40T while mashing. Upon inquiry, OneUp customer service informed me that "1500 miles is an acceptable mileage for a cog to wear out" (the other cogs on the cassette have about 5x the mileage and no issues). They also advised me to replace the cog, so I ordered an new one... from Wolf Tooth. I'm hoping that steel lasts longer than aluminum.


2/9 Update:

I received and installed the 40T Wolfstooth. It is aluminum alloy but looks beefy compared to the OneUp and I got this pm from customer service:

"We have had 1 (yes 1) GC wear out since we started selling them. Now we know they WILL start to wear out at some point for people, but they are lasting far longer than 1500 miles.

Of note is that our teeth are 10% thicker than the brand that you had making the wear surface larger and he life significantly longer (lots of variables here so I don't want to quote 
a % longer life). We can have this additional thickness, which by the way is also stiffer, because of how we create the shift gate teeth (relieved on the back side and 
significant shaping). This was not the cheapest way to do it (more machining), but it allows for the smoothest shifting and longest GC life."

I'm not endorsing this cog until after a couple chain changes but have my fingers crossed.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

Interesting, thanks for the update.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

Thanks for the heads up on the WT.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

JohnFL said:


> The WT sounds pretty good.


Mine was installed in March 2014. Unfortunately due to being out of action for half of the year, I didn't get as much riding as I would have liked in the latter half, but I've still managed to get about 600km in with my Wolftooth on.

I was actually looking at it the other day while giving the bike a proper cleaning and couldn't see any wear at all. Still looks basically brand new!


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## mayonays (Oct 22, 2010)

Just picked up a 40T+16T Wolf Tooth to replace my OneUp setup, which has worked flawlessly for the past 6 months. I got a new bike and the OneUp green just doesn't match. I'll be installing it in the next few days, I'm hopeful that the performance is just as good (or better!) than the OneUp.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

ethirteen is making them now , I'd imagine raceface will be next.

available end of May.


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## matadorCE (Jun 26, 2013)

johnD said:


> ethirteen is making them now , I'd imagine raceface will be next.
> 
> available end of May.


These look sharp in person. The mechanic that works on my bike at my LBS just put one on his bike and he likes it a lot.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

The option is here to stay. I imagine we will have many new choices by years end. The question is, will the big boys (Shimano, SRAM) make derailleur cages to adapt their products like OneUp's RAD'r cage?


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

HitmenOnlyInc said:


> The option is here to stay. I imagine we will have many new choices by years end. The question is, will the big boys (Shimano, SRAM) make derailleur cages to adapt their products like OneUp's RAD'r cage?


I highly doubt that they'll adjust their cages to run outside of their own specifications. Especially when they have their own 1x11 dedicated setups


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

They have to understand that there's a market and there are tons of riders not willing to change their whole drivetrain. But you may be right that they are letting co's like OneUp have that market.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Shimano and SRAM would be moving backwards if they went back to redevelop their 10 speed stuff. Why do that when people are willing to shell out money to switch to 11 speed?

I'm still curious about SRAM's 10 speed X01 DH rear derailleur. It has the X-Horizon feature in it like the X1 RD's. Wonder if anybody has tried it with a 40 or 42T cog.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

I guess the trickle down will hit the average buyer soon enough. It didn't take that long for shadow + to move from XTR-Deore, I assume 11sp will do the same. We'll see sub-2k bikes with 11sp in a few years.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I'm sure Shimano will trickle down their 11sp to XT soon enough. As for SRAM...people were waiting for it to trickle down to X9...never happened. Instead we got X1...which seems like its more for OEM bikes than the aftermarket.

The biggest killer for SRAM is the XD driver and the cost of the cassette. I got a friend that went 11 speed. He spent about 700 for a new rear wheel, X01 cassette, and XD driver. Then the rear derailleur and shifter on top of that. Thats too much to spend for the sake of the 10T cog.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

The cassette is the weak link...super expensive and disposable.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

HitmenOnlyInc said:


> They have to understand that there's a market and there are tons of riders not willing to change their whole drivetrain. But you may be right that they are letting co's like OneUp have that market.


Still though, on every ride I do, although I *might* see one other person on a 40/42t cog, most people are still on 2x or even 3x drivetrains. And those that are on 1x are predominantly on either 1x10 with a small front chainring, or have gone to 1x11.

I know, for instance, that when this cassette and cog does wear out, I'll most likely go to a dedicated 1x11 system. As good as the jury-rigged systems we're running are, I don't think anyone can claim that they're actually as good as a proper 1x11 setup


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

I can't say if my 1x10 is as good because I haven't tried 1x11. Guys I know, love the 1x11 but so do the ones running 1x10. For now, I can't see a reason, for my application, to change. I rarely use my 42 so I'll be content changing out a $60 XT cassette when it wears out, just like I always do. The thought of dropping $200 or more on a cassette is just crazy.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

HitmenOnlyInc said:


> I can't say if my 1x10 is as good because I haven't tried 1x11. Guys I know, love the 1x11 but so do the ones running 1x10. For now, I can't see a reason, for my application, to change. I rarely use my 42 so I'll be content changing out a $60 XT cassette when it wears out, just like I always do. The thought of dropping $200 or more on a cassette is just crazy.


If you have the range you need and it shifts well, you don't need 1x11. I've had both, currently on 1x11, and I couldn't get my 1x10 setup to shift well in the 22-15 range...bought X01 before the RAD cage came out. The advantage over my 1x10 setup is good range for steep climbs and extended flat-ish fire roads and perfect shifting. How much that's worth is a matter of discretion, but if you're happy with your 10 speed, you ain't missing a whole lot.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

HitmenOnlyInc said:


> The option is here to stay. I imagine we will have many new choices by years end. The question is, will the big boys (Shimano, SRAM) make derailleur cages to adapt their products like OneUp's RAD'r cage?


They already do. All a RAD cage does is offset the upper jockey pulley from the upper cage pivot to allow the pulley to more closely track a wide range cassette. SRAM derailleurs don't need a RAD cage because they already have an offset upper jockey pulley. Shimano 11sp derailleurs (currently only available in XTR but trickle down is inevitable) have an offset pulley by design (an old feature they are going back to) and will work in a 10sp drivetrain. So while it could be better and there is still a reason for the RAD cage to exist, the big boys are at least moving in the right direction.

Where the big boys are really dropping the ball is in cassette availability. An XT level 11-42 10sp cassette would be great, but they have zero interest in producing one. It is not hard to put one together with aftermarket help, but it is like buying two cassettes and the shifting can be somewhat compromised by the need to drop a small cog to make room for the big cog add-on. Although I am happy with my overall shifting, and I am consistently amazed at how well the WT GC 42t shifts. I don't want 11sp, but I am happily running an 11sp derailleur in my 10sp setup, and I can see myself sticking with this basic configuration for a long time.


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## Co-opski (Oct 24, 2013)

Just updated my rear mech to a Saint Shadow + and One Up Radr from the XT long cage that I had. Same Wolftooth 42 GC, XT cassette, KMC x10SL chain (new-replaced my over .65 old one) and XTR shifter. Smooth shifting between all gears and much better chain wrap on the smaller cogs and I did not have to max out the b-screw.
All on 170 Fatback and I dropped the 11T on my XT cassette.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I tried a 42t CG before and wasn't thrilled with it. Been thinking of trying a 40t GC with a XT cassette but curious if it will work with a short cage X9.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

i run a zee which is short cage with a 40t-rex. i know it's not sram but still it is a shorty. i've run it with a radr cage too and went back to stock b/c of issues with radr causing chain to bind against rd in two gears. many hours of adjustments to try to get it to work even taking one up's 4 step trouble shooting pointers. it runs good but not on the 1st batch run of the 16t cog. i just live with it until i can afford the xtr 9000. i say try it cause sram seems to run better with these setups, i'm guessing their cage is offset more than shimano's


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## mayonays (Oct 22, 2010)

Swapped out the green OneUp 40T & 16T for Wolf Tooth in silver. Matches my raw frame a bit better! Shifting in the stand was just as good as the OneUp, I'll get some actual riding in later this week.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

I'll be running a brand new Sram PG-1070 11x36 cassette on a new build soon. Using a Twenty6 Products 42t cog, I'll remove the 15t & 17t. Could I replace the 15t & 17t with a Sram 16t instead of a Wolf Tooth 16t? Would that make the shifting seamless since it's an original Sram product and not an after market product?


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## mobes (Feb 6, 2014)

kevinboyer said:


> Could I replace the 15t & 17t with a Sram 16t instead of a Wolf Tooth 16t? Would that make the shifting seamless since it's an original Sram product and not an after market product?


That's what I did. I think it was from a 12-25 road cassette. Works great, indexing is correct and everything.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

mobes said:


> That's what I did. I think it was from a 12-25 road cassette. Works great, indexing is correct and everything.


Excellent. I was hoping to hear that. Replace an original Sram part, with an original Sram part. Voila:thumbsup:


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

kevinboyer said:


> Excellent. I was hoping to hear that. Replace an original Sram part, with an original Sram part. Voila:thumbsup:


You need to make sure that you're using the 16 from another 1070 cassette.

I bought a 11-23 1070 for the 16T thinking it would work with other series cassette...it didn't. The 1070 16T did not work with the 1030 and 1050. The ramps did not line up.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

RS VR6 said:


> You need to make sure that you're using the 16 from another 1070 cassette.
> 
> I bought a 11-23 1070 for the 16T thinking it would work with other series cassette...it didn't. The 1070 16T did not work with the 1030 and 1050. The ramps did not line up.


That is some good info to know. Thanks very much.


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## JACKL (Sep 18, 2011)

dirtrider76 said:


> I tried a 42t CG before and wasn't thrilled with it. Been thinking of trying a 40t GC with a XT cassette but curious if it will work with a short cage X9.


If you don't use a Rad cage adding a 42 is not going to shift very well in the smaller cogs. I would say you could get by with the shorty X9 with a hardtail, but not full suspension. I tried the SRAM x9 shorty with a 42t Gen Lee on an FS bike and it was not long enough.


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## MrEconomics (Aug 23, 2004)

What size front ring are some of you running? (include your RDR type as well). Thanks.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

Guppie58 said:


> What size front ring are some of you running? (include your RDR type as well). Thanks.


I'm running a 35t front (E-Thirteen), 42t Wolftooth cog, SRAM T2 Mid-Cage.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

34 hope, 40t-rex, zee rd stock cage


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

32 front 11-42 rear. No 16 I switched back to Shimano 17 that came with my cassette. Works fine.


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## SirHades (Jan 9, 2015)

32 front, 11-42 rear. 
XT shadow+ with OneUp Radr cage.


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## gotow (Aug 5, 2013)

Ntmboy said:


> 2/9 Update:
> 
> ... I got this pm from customer service:
> 
> "We have had 1 (yes 1) GC wear out since we started selling them. Now we know they WILL start to wear out at some point for people, but they are lasting far longer than 1500 miles.


I've got 1750 miles on my Wolftooth 42T GC and it's still working great. I have been religiously changing the chain every 600 miles to keep the cassette from wearing badly, so that may factor in too, but they do seem to last pretty well.


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## MrEconomics (Aug 23, 2004)

Do I need narrow wide chainring


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Guppie58 said:


> Do I need narrow wide chainring


Kinda vague, but I'll bite. Yes, you do!


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## MrEconomics (Aug 23, 2004)

HitmenOnlyInc said:


> Kinda vague, but I'll bite. Yes, you do!


The question is based off some comments how you should have a NW chain ring, clutch RDR, etc. The RDR I can see, not sure why NW chain ring. Thus the question.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Guppie58 said:


> The question is based off some comments how you should have a NW chain ring, clutch RDR, etc. The RDR I can see, not sure why NW chain ring. Thus the question.


In lots of cases, it eliminates the need for a chain guide. I'm running NW and Clutch=zero dropped chains.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

yes in most cases it eliminates the need for a chain guide. really depends on the terrain and riding style, big time. i can and will still throw a chain, but not as often. if you like to get air or blast down hillsides loaded with chunder then you may want a guide too. definitely get a n/w ring as they will help with the drop chain nightmare plus they have more material so they tend to last longer, this is why i use n/w for ss too.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

I'm moving from 30t to 32t....think I will need to add length to my chain?


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

jonshonda said:


> I'm moving from 30t to 32t....think I will need to add length to my chain?


I doubt it. Try it and see.


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## kevocastro (Sep 23, 2011)

jonshonda said:


> I'm moving from 30t to 32t....think I will need to add length to my chain?


Unless you need it already I don't see why, it's a pretty small change in diameter


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## Warura (Oct 21, 2013)

I have recenlty installed 42T and 16T on my slx (hg81) cassette,had to break the pins to take out the 15,17T, but reused the pins to Force the remaining cogs to stay joined. I have a zee rear Mech and deore shifter with a34T race face narrow wide up front. The only problem I had was adjusting the B screw and set the lower limit (on the 42T) a tad inside since if I left it aligned the chain, it would hop past the cog and fell into the spoke/hub side. 
Another thing, since I installed also the RADr cage I cleaned the derailleur and also add a turn of tension to the shadow clutch mech. Its now firm and have not had a chain drop (not even before the 42T 16T swap had I ever had a chain drop)


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## Gonzafe (Mar 4, 2015)

I have a Sram 1050 cassette... 11-13-15-17-19-22-*25*-28-32-36 and XTplus derailleur.
I removed *25t* cog and added *42t Blackspire*. :eekster:

(11-13-15-17-19-22-28-32-36-*42*) I prefer save the 11-13-15-17

The question is... all brands recommend remove the 15 o 17 cog. The best alternative is remove 15 & 17 and add 16t cog
I observed the line of cassette (chain climb) and i think removing the* 25 *cogs it's ok
what are you thinking?
sorry for my english, thxs...:madman:


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

kevocastro said:


> Unless you need it already I don't see why, it's a pretty small change in diameter


Using a 30t, I find myself in the high range of gears, I am thinking a 32t, or 34t would help move the typically used gears to more of the center portion of the cassette.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Gonzafe said:


> I have a Sram 1050 cassette... 11-13-15-17-19-22-*25*-28-32-36 and XTplus derailleur.
> I removed *25t* cog and added *42t Blackspire*. :eekster:
> 
> (11-13-15-17-19-22-28-32-36-*42*) I prefer save the 11-13-15-17
> ...


I would miss the 25t. Being in the middle gears and the ones I use the most. I don't notice not having the 15t.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Gonzafe said:


> I observed the line of cassette (chain climb) and i think removing the* 25 *cogs it's ok
> what are you thinking?
> sorry for my english, thxs...:madman:


I could not understand your reasoning here. WHY do you think removing the 25 is better than the alternatives?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Gonzafe (Mar 4, 2015)

I would to try.


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## Gonzafe (Mar 4, 2015)

fefillo said:


> I could not understand your reasoning here. WHY do you think removing the 25 is better than the alternatives?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I ride XC marathon in this configuration. I fear the jump in 13-17 or 15-19 is very high. I don't know, I have to try. I doubt whether removing the 25t cog would cause difficulty in passing the gear..... that's my question


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

jonshonda said:


> Using a 30t, I find myself in the high range of gears, I am thinking a 32t, or 34t would help move the typically used gears to more of the center portion of the cassette.


For me, on my bike, on my trails, I had the exact opposite experience. The 30T is the perfect ring for me, as it helps me use all of my cassette.

There is really no way to know for sure without trying a couple different rings. I first bought the 32T thinking it was the safest bet, but after a few weeks, I knew I needed the 30T. I sold the lightly used 32T on eBay and in the end, I only lost about $13.


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## airborn22 (Nov 22, 2010)

Gonzafe said:


> I ride XC marathon in this configuration. I fear the jump in 13-17 or 15-19 is very high. I don't know, I have to try. I doubt whether removing the 25t cog would cause difficulty in passing the gear..... that's my question


the current reasoning of gear changes has nothing to do with perfect shifting. The reason for the 15-17 switch to 16 is simple manufactures product design, how they are put together. larger cogs are usually riveted together. nothing says you cannot figure out your own ways of getting what you want done though.


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## JACKL (Sep 18, 2011)

Gonzafe said:


> I have a Sram 1050 cassette... 11-13-15-17-19-22-*25*-28-32-36 and XTplus derailleur.
> I removed *25t* cog and added *42t Blackspire*. :eekster:
> 
> (11-13-15-17-19-22-28-32-36-*42*) I prefer save the 11-13-15-17
> ...


The biggest % jump on a Shimano conversion with the 16t is the 13t to 16t shift - 23% difference.  The biggest jump on yours with the 25t removed is the 22t to 28t shift - 27% difference. So you have the bigger % difference, but it happens in the lower gears where it's easier to recover, so I'd call it a wash.

In my opinion, neither of the above % changes are a problem at all. The "problem" is the inconsistency with the other shifts so that when you shift you may get a big or a small shift. In the heat of battle, you may end up shifting up or down more than you intended without knowing why. One solution is to just "ride your bike" and don't worry about it. Unfortunately for me, I can't do this. I have a mental illness and have to tinker until I get it just the way I want it.

I've been experimenting with shuffling custom cassettes and I'm currently running an 11-34 range with 6 cogs. The largest shift is 26-34 at 31%, and each shift gets progressively closer. The bigger % changes don't cause any problem at all, and the changes are consistent so I know what to expect. I can usually just shift one gear at a time now.


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## powderturns (Jun 19, 2007)

If you want to take an informed guess at what you need for a bottom end gear and how big a chainring you can run, some of the available gear calculators can help. I used the following to determine that my previous low end of 26 (front) x 36 (max rear) could be replicated by a 30t narrow wide and a 42 rear from one-up. Setting the units to gear-inches revealed an additional decimal place and eliminated some of the guesswork. That said, hard to be sure without trying...

BikeCalc.com - Bicycle Gear Ratio Chart



D Bone said:


> For me, on my bike, on my trails, I had the exact opposite experience. The 30T is the perfect ring for me, as it helps me use all of my cassette.
> 
> There is really no way to know for sure without trying a couple different rings. I first bought the 32T thinking it was the safest bet, but after a few weeks, I knew I needed the 30T. I sold the lightly used 32T on eBay and in the end, I only lost about $13.


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## mikodipo (May 20, 2009)

Couldn't find an answer searching and haven't got a response from oneup yet but does anyone have issues shifting from 36 to 42 and the chain sitting on top of the teeth before dropping into the "valleys" of the cog? This happens for about a half a revolution and is kinda clunky. 

Also when installing the rad cage, I didn't notice the black bushing between the hanger and the derailleur body. Anyone missing that too?

Setup is full xt drivetrain with the rad cage , 42 and 16 T cog installed.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

mikodipo said:


> Couldn't find an answer searching and haven't got a response from oneup yet but does anyone have issues shifting from 36 to 42 and the chain sitting on top of the teeth before dropping into the "valleys" of the cog? This happens for about a half a revolution and is kinda clunky.
> 
> Also when installing the rad cage, I didn't notice the black bushing between the hanger and the derailleur body. Anyone missing that too?
> 
> Setup is full xt drivetrain with the rad cage , 42 and 16 T cog installed.


I would check the low limit screw first and then B-tension screw. Sounds like your derailleur needs to move just a bit more to get the chain all the way to the proper pace on the 42.

Same problem if you push your shifter all the way AND hold it until shift is complete??


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## mikodipo (May 20, 2009)

fefillo said:


> I would check the low limit screw first and then B-tension screw. Sounds like your derailleur needs to move just a bit more to get the chain all the way to the proper pace on the 42.
> 
> Same problem if you push your shifter all the way AND hold it until shift is complete??


It's not that it doesn't move the chain over but the roller pins on the center of the chain rides on top of the teeth then kinda falls into the valley after a half a rotation.


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## JACKL (Sep 18, 2011)

mikodipo said:


> It's not that it doesn't move the chain over but the roller pins on the center of the chain rides on top of the teeth then kinda falls into the valley after a half a rotation.


I still agree with what fefillo suggested. Adjusting the b-screw clockwise a tad might help with this, and checking the low limit screw adjustment and backing it off slightly if appropriate may also help.

This is less likely to directly help this issue, but I'll throw in one more suggestion - I've found that my Rad cage provides the most gain when my chain is set to the minimum safe length vs. having an extra 2 links.


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## mikodipo (May 20, 2009)

JACKL said:


> I still agree with what fefillo suggested. Adjusting the b-screw clockwise a tad might help with this, and checking the low limit screw adjustment and backing it off slightly if appropriate may also help.
> 
> This is less likely to directly help this issue, but I'll throw in one more suggestion - I've found that my Rad cage provides the most gain when my chain is set to the minimum safe length vs. having an extra 2 links.


Thanks guys. I'll definitely try these tonight.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

mikodipo said:


> It's not that it doesn't move the chain over but the roller pins on the center of the chain rides on top of the teeth then kinda falls into the valley after a half a rotation.


Hmmm... then this sounds like the shifting is occurring out of sync of when it should? Like the 36 is not "handing the chain off the way the 42 wants it" ? Does that somewhat describe what you are experiencing?

If that is the case, then I would suggest you remove your cassette and make sure you installed the 42 in the correct spline of the freehub. Specially if it's a OneUp, i think those can be installed to be in sync with Shimano or SRAM cassette tooth profiles?

I own a WT, so maybe this is incorrect, but I remember the OU could be used with both brands, where as the WT have brand specific models?


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## Gonzafe (Mar 4, 2015)

JACKL said:


> The biggest % jump on a Shimano conversion with the 16t is the 13t to 16t shift - 23% difference. The biggest jump on yours with the 25t removed is the 22t to 28t shift - 27% difference. So you have the bigger % difference, but it happens in the lower gears where it's easier to recover, so I'd call it a wash.
> 
> In my opinion, neither of the above % changes are a problem at all. The "problem" is the inconsistency with the other shifts so that when you shift you may get a big or a small shift. In the heat of battle, you may end up shifting up or down more than you intended without knowing why. One solution is to just "ride your bike" and don't worry about it. Unfortunately for me, I can't do this. I have a mental illness and have to tinker until I get it just the way I want it.
> 
> I've been experimenting with shuffling custom cassettes and I'm currently running an 11-34 range with 6 cogs. The largest shift is 26-34 at 31%, and each shift gets progressively closer. The bigger % changes don't cause any problem at all, and the changes are consistent so I know what to expect. I can usually just shift one gear at a time now.


 Thank you, enjoy the bike when we can


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## mtbmesa (Jan 9, 2008)

2015 Nomad , 786 shadow derailleur, 42t cog, rad cage, hollowtech II xt cranks circa 2010, 32t narrow wide race face chain ring mounted in the middle, one spacer on drive side BB. Shifts great but on the 42t ring chain line to chain ring is too severe to the point of very hesitant chain movement, binding. I'd say chain ring needs to move in to the BB farther. How far though? What sizer spacer/washer should I look for.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Got my wife's 40T GC installed last week. Shifts like a gem.

Full setup:
Deore Shadow Plus SGS
Deore shifter
32T Blackspire on 96BCD XT triple
RAD cage
XT GS inner plate and pulleys
XT 11-36 Cassette
Wolftooth 40T GC
16T Wolftooth
KMC Superlight


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Has anyone here logged an appreciable amount of miles with the new Wolftooth GoatLink adapter and a standard RD cage (not link+RAD) and would comment on its performance? 
This just might be the thing that gets me to move from a 1x 30x11-36 to an 11-42.

Does it work?
edited to add: I ask because it seems like a simple solution that makes sense, but in another thread OneUp essentially said 'We considered that but it didn't work and was trash.' I understand they want to promote their RADr cage product, but it seems awfully dismissive of WolfTooth. Would like some unbiased experience.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

^this is the answer to my rd arm getting chewed by the cassette on occasion. canfield's do's position the rd a lil too far forward and the rad cage can't fix that


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

I doubt there's anyone with enough miles to give an honest review yet; you can only buy the prototype right now.

Both companies have charts showing chain wrap and free chain length. So you can at least make an educated guess. 

Since you can get a 42 to shift at least marginally well with just the B screw adjustment, my bet is that a lot of people will be happy with the GoatLink. Besides, its cheap enough to be worth the gamble.

It's hard to beat the RAD cage though. They just shift smooth.

FWIW, I am a customer of both companies. I run RAD cages with Wolftooth GCs. I think they're both putting out some good products. However, Wolftooth did send a free beer cozy with my last purchase (Thanks WT)!


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

I read the valuable information in this thread when I was making a decision whether to get an extended range cogset for my daughter's 24" Scott.

I've since installed the Wolf Tooth GC42T and wanted to report back on the results.

The set up is as follows:

Wolf Tooth direct drive 30T drop-stop ring with integrated spider
Middleburn RS-7 square taper crankset
Wolf Tooth GC42T
RD M-9000-GS (medium cage XTR)
10-speed 11-36T XTR cassette
Phil Wood BB
Wolf Tooth 16T replacing stock 15T and 17T cogs

















The offset 30T chainring is NOT designed for the RS-7 crank, but rather for the X-drive RS-8 crank. However, the chainring fits. I wanted to use the RS-7 because it is available in 160mm.

My thinking at the time was that the offset ring might just be the solution for an optimal chainline for the 42T. As the chainstay of the 24" bike would be shorter, the chain would be at an even more extreme angle. I figured that the offset chainring would reduce the extreme angle when the chain is on the 42T.









To have full adjustability of the chainline, I used a Phil Wood BB with adjustable cups. Looks a bit shabby, but functionally flawless.

*The Results*

Shifting is perfect. There is a slight hesitation on the 16T on the bike stand, but it goes away when shifting while riding. Backpedalling on the 42T doesn't drop the chain. I didn't even have to screw the B-tension screw all the way in, which suggests that the new 11 speed XTR derailleur is better suited for this application than the RD M-986. The rated max capacity is 40T vs 36T.









Photo above showing the chainline. I adjusted the BB axle so that it was offset to the drive side by about 3mm, in order for the chainring to clear the chainstay with a little room to spare.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Jesus. That's a nicer drivetrain than I'll ever have.


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## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

Installed the OU 42T and 16T cogs w a Rad cage on my 2011 Turner 5 Spot. I was running a 2x9 set up and wanted to put some new life in my bike. So instead of purchasing a new frame/ bike, I decided to finally upgrade the dt. Everything is new, except for the cranks.
First ride today on the new OU setup was a 16 mile ride (Big Laguna Trail to Noble Canyon) with ups, downs, tech, and groomed st. A perfect place to test out the gear range and shifting. Everything shifted perfectly and no dropped chains. fwiw, going through the cassette on the stand, you could feel and see a little drag when going up to the 16T cog, but couldn't feel it on the dirt. Can't believe it took me so long to finally try this and I'm super happy with the results.

set up:
30T Raceface NW 
XT 11-36 cassette with the 42 and 16
XT shifter
XT RD w rad cage
and some old ass ~2008 xt cranks


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

@Random,

What we've found is that -if cost and effort are no object- replacing the cage really is the only way to match stock Shimano chain wrap and free chain numbers. That said, we can do a _lot_ with the GoatLink- especially in terms of drivetrain life/degradation. With a 42, an aftermarket cage will shift better than a straight GoatLink. With a 40... the gap narrows considerably.

For $20 and ease of installation, the GoatLink should be a no-brainer at the Deore, SLX or even the XT level. Your drivetrain will last longer and shifting (especially on worn parts) will improve. After all, it can be hard to justify spending $55 to upgrade a $40-70 rear derailleur. Once at the XT/XTR level, you might find that a costlier, more in-depth intervention makes sense to you.

What gives me confidence (even more than my own experience) is that feedback from the folks we've had on the GoatLink (even those coming from competing solutions) has been overwhelmingly positive. I won't argue that it's the ultimate solution (more on that before long)- but for a lot of riders it's probably the _right_ solution.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Thank you so much for the response. I appreciate when a company can give people the straight story about the benefits and limitations of a product.
I'll be watching this product closely. 
This is sounding like a 'right' solution for me more and more.



Marc Lindarets said:


> For $20 and ease of installation, the GoatLink should be a no-brainer at the Deore, SLX or even the XT level. Your drivetrain will last longer and shifting (especially on worn parts) will improve. After all, it can be hard to justify spending $55 to upgrade a $40-70 rear derailleur. Once at the XT/XTR level, you might find that a costlier, more in-depth intervention makes sense to you.


This is pretty much my situation. 
2nd-hand XT RD
Zee shifter
SLX cassette
30T N/W ring
2nd-hand XT cranks

I'm getting on pretty well with a 30x36 granny, but on rare days I just ain't feelin' it, and my poor shifter paddle gets abused looking for a bigger cog that isn't there. Would be handy to have a bail-out 40 or 42.


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## Warura (Oct 21, 2013)

I have never heard of the goatlink. Its kind of clever and cheaper to make design, and is doing the same as the oneup cage, pushing the guide pulley back so it wotks better con bigger cogs. The only problem I see in this is its generating more leverage to the already (not all but most) rear hanger. Any normal hit and it could bend or break the hanger easier.

ARandomBik, dude 30T front is to small, on long not so technicall trails I would go to sleep using the fastest gear, I use 34T and am not using 36T just because it will not fit my frame. Do some weights, it help me a lot. I have helped friends get really strong with a constant weight training program. On the other hand I come from a competitive basketball training background, so maybe it just I have stronger legs.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Warura said:


> ARandomBik, dude 30T front is to small, on long not so technicall trails I would go to sleep using the fastest gear, I use 34T and am not using 36T just because it will not fit my frame. Do some weights, it help me a lot. I have helped friends get really strong with a constant weight training program. On the other hand I come from a competitive basketball training background, so maybe it just I have stronger legs.


I don't ride non-technical trails. So I guess I don't need to worry about falling asleep on my fastest gear.

You run what you like, I'll run what I like.:thumbsup:


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Yeah...its definitely not only an individual choice but also extremely dependant on the trail. 

I run a 34T on my bike (27.5), but some XC trails I could easily run bigger and one local trail makes me wish for a 32T with the insane climbs. My wife rides the same trails all the time with a 32T..but she only recently started maxing out the top end.

I rode a lot of trails before where I never even thought about shifting to the granny with a 38X11-36. That's one of the reasons I went 1X.

On a 29er I'd probably be on a 30 or 32. 

There's a little less flexibility than a 2X or 3X, where the same rings can work for everone. This all what makes it a bit of a compromise.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Marc Lindarets said:


> What we've found is that...


Marc,

Your reply is awesome and well thought out. I think (and hope) you're going to do well with this product.

I have two bikes running RAD cages, but installing that first one was scary on a brand-spanking-new XT derailleur. I'm not timid about taking stuff apart, but I'd be lying if I said I was totally comfortable that process, and its alot different than fixing something expensive that's already broken. Those tiny screws are tighter than all get out and feel like they'll strip at any second. I would have probably tried the GoatLink for the minimal investment had it been available then...and I suspect I would have been happy. It looks like the products are very comparable at the 40T size. If I were doing a budget build I'd probably go that route. If I do another high(er) end build with Shimano components and a 42T I'll probably just grab an XTR 11 speed derailleur and be done with it.


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## Calzor Suzay (Jun 18, 2007)

After a recent ride home where I could hear my chain skipping in the large 44t, the beginnings of chain suck in the middle ring and general grindy sounds I decided I'd run the drivetrain into the ground and was time to swop out my 3x9 setup.

Swopped as below:-

XT 3 ring front with Saint crank for Single Race Face NW 36t on the Saint crank, needed 4 spacer/shim things so there was enough meat for the bolts to bite on but NW went exactly where the middle ring was and doesn't look odd.
Removed XT front derailleur, bit sloppy and on it's way out but worked perfectly well so cleaned up and kept.
Removed SRAM X9 front shifter and cabling.
Swopped XT 11-34 rear cassette for XT 11-36, removed 17t and replaced with OneUp 42t & 16t cogs.
Swopped SRAM x9 rear derailleur for XT shadow+ with OneUp RadR cage mod.
Swopped SRAM x9 rear shifter for Zee, had Jagwire outer and the Zee shifter came with new cable.
Swopped Shimano 9 speed for KMC 10 speed chain.

I do my own bike maintenance but found it a fairly easy swop, B screw adjustment was easy, cable shifting no issues, the hardest part was the chain length as I have a coil shock on a Nomad Mk1, so with this disengaged from one end to work out the furthest travel was a bit tricky even in the stand. 

So far loving it, don't have to think about the front mech and mixing it up with the gravity dropper lever. I weighed what I took off and put on and saved just over 450g. The front mech/bottom bracket area is now a whole lot cleaner in the mud fest that is the UK this time of year, as a consequence the VPP area stays cleaner. It's quieter maybe partly down to worn out drive train but there's no more chain rubbing the front mech or chain slap. Shifts crisply and so far no chain drops. I worked out that I lost 1 gear off the top speed and 2 and a bit off the bottom, my calculations to go with a 36t where from having never used the granny where I ride locally so it made sense to keep more of the top than the bottom.

Time will tell as it beds in and wears out but so far it's great


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Warura said:


> ARandomBik, dude 30T front is to small, on long not so technicall trails I would go to sleep using the fastest gear, I use 34T and am not using 36T just because it will not fit my frame. Do some weights, it help me a lot. I have helped friends get really strong with a constant weight training program. On the other hand I come from a competitive basketball training background, so maybe it just I have stronger legs.


or maybe the trails you ride aren't as difficult as you may think.

I don't see how some random person on the internet can come on and tell another random person on the internet what he or she should use without knowing anything about that person or where they ride.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

People forget wheel size fits in the math, too. I could see someone on a 26er wondering why peope buy 30T rings at all. The flip side is true too...someone on a 29er could wonder who the heck can pedal a 36T anywhere but flat and downhill.

I'd like to have one in my box every size from 30-38T. I dont think anyone even makes a 38.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

dledinger said:


> People forget wheel size fits in the math, too. I could see someone on a 26er wondering why peope buy 30T rings at all. The flip side is true too...someone on a 29er could wonder who the heck can pedal a 36T anywhere but flat and downhill.
> 
> I'd like to have one in my box every size from 30-38T. I dont think anyone even makes a 38.


Very nicely put. 
Personally I ride with a 36t on a 29er in mostly flat trails, but with very steep / very short climb/descents. I wish I had a 38t sometimes, but most other people with 1x on the same trails are running 28-32.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

34t 11-40 on a 32# bike with very steep and moderate climbs here. <1000' gain on a typical ride, to each their own so who gives a rats a$s as long as everyone is out doing what most of us love to do here at this site. some like to gab on the interwebs more than ride and i believe that's called a poser


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## justaute (Dec 13, 2012)

Pretty sure WT makes 38t NW ring in 104 BCD. I have one.


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## Ultraman mike (Mar 20, 2013)

1x10 mod on my Ibis Mojo HD

Wolftooth 42T GC 
Shimano XT Hollowtech II crankset ( originally 3x10 )
Shimano XT cassette 11-36
Shimano XTshadow plus derailleur
Oneup Radcage 
Raceface NW 30T chainring 
Race Face Crank Arm Outer Tab Spacers
Raceface 12.5 mm chainring bolts 
Miche 12T first position cog 
Token 12T lockring 
Shimano Cassette Lockring Washer for 12 tooth Cog
Sram PC 1071 Chain

I decided to Change the 11T for a 12T first position cog . I completely remove the 13T on the 11-36 XT Shimano cassett. I mostly ride in the middle and upper part of the cassette (ridding in Utah) and use the wolftooth 42T GC as a bailout gear . This setup shifts very well... I love it. Looks super clean and lost a little overall weight.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Interest approach with the 11&13 replaced by a 12. Most people complain about shifting through the missing 15, 17, or into and out of the new 16. 

I would never drop the 11 alltogether like some do...but I would consider your plan. I like it.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Nice mod...I agree. Make the mods to work with the trails you ride.


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## Ultraman mike (Mar 20, 2013)

dledinger said:


> Interest approach with the 11&13 replaced by a 12. Most people complain about shifting through the missing 15, 17, or into and out of the new 16.
> 
> I would never drop the 11 alltogether like some do...but I would consider your plan. I like it.


I tried leaving the 11T and removed the 13T.... I liked how the 12T shifted into the 15T. Riding in utah I really don't use the 12T unless I am riding pavement or fire roads.


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## Ultraman mike (Mar 20, 2013)

HitmenOnlyInc said:


> Nice mod...I agree. Make the mods to work with the trails you ride.


Thank you... @HitmenOnlyInc If I do run out of gear I can always jump up to a 32T Chainring without compromising my smooth shifts.


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## sloonz (Apr 15, 2012)

@Marc, Thanks for your honest response. You're exactly right (in my case) in stating that it's an affordable solution, and not necessarily the "best" solution. I highly agree that it's difficult to spend money on a cage that costs just as much as the SLX derailleur that came on my Santa Cruz 5010 Carbon. In this case the GoatLink is the solution I'm going to try (ordering one now).
Don't get me wrong, I personally prefer Sram for various reasons and have higher end X0 components on my other bikes. However, the SLX shadow+ derailleur came on my 5010 and I couldn't justify swapping out the entire drivetrain to SRAM after dropping a lot of coin on another new bike. 
So again...great economical solution. I think each device will have their own specific buyers. Maybe OneUp should look into reducing mfg. cost on the rad cage by going with a stamped steel like some stock cages.



Marc Lindarets said:


> @Random,
> 
> What we've found is that -if cost and effort are no object- replacing the cage really is the only way to match stock Shimano chain wrap and free chain numbers. That said, we can do a _lot_ with the GoatLink- especially in terms of drivetrain life/degradation. With a 42, an aftermarket cage will shift better than a straight GoatLink. With a 40... the gap narrows considerably.
> 
> ...


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## jon_ssss (Feb 20, 2009)

ARandomBiker said:


> I ask because it seems like a simple solution that makes sense, but in another thread OneUp essentially said 'We considered that but it didn't work and was trash.' I understand they want to promote their RADr cage product, but it seems awfully dismissive.


@Random

My apologies if I came off overly dismissive. We did consider a B-link during the RAD development last spring. Our primary goal was to return free length (affects shift performance) to stock levels. As has been noted here, this is not possible with a B-link swap alone.

The thing we respect most about Shimano is the fact that there is very little performance lost as they trickle tech down to lower product levels. Although weights, materials/manufacturing techniques, and finishes get downgraded the performance remains high. Just look at Zee brakes or compare the shift ramps of an M980 cassette to that of a 10-speed Deore. For that reason it would be disingenuous of me to recommend a performance downgrade just because it's used on a lower end derailleur.

Install may seem invasive but the process takes less than 15 minutes using standard tools and is well described as a standard service procedure by Shimano. http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-RD0001-04-ENG.pdf

The improvement numbers for the RAD/RADr when used with an 11-42T cassette are below:
Chain Wrap at 11t (this affects cassette life):
Improved by 98% (~equal to stock)
Free Chain at 11t (this affects shift performance):
Improved by 120% (better than stock)









Features of both RAD/RADr cages and our extender sprockets are currently patent pending.


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## pastajet (May 26, 2006)

My thoughts on using the RADr with the rest of their system:

Grams Light Bikes: OneUp Components 42T Sprocket, Narrow Wide Chainrings and RADr Cage Review


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

pastajet said:


> My thoughts on using the RADr with the rest of their system:
> 
> Grams Light Bikes: OneUp Components 42T Sprocket, Narrow Wide Chainrings and RADr Cage Review


Nice write up.

I've been very happy with my OneUp conversion. I am actually using their RAD cage with XT shadow +. I plan on trying out their NW chainrings when my current RaceFace wears out or when I convert my other bike in the near future.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

RAD cages shift marvelously, IMO. I had the same experience as Gram....I could run the b screw in slightly further than stock and really tighten things up.

To be fair, I don't think we'll really know much about the GoatLink until a few people try both side by side. 

I suspect the GoatLink will work pretty dang good with a 40 tooth setup, will work far better than a b screw adjustment on a 42, but still not being as good as a RAD cage on the 42. Had I not already done both of my Shimano setups with the RAD I would give it a shot. One runs a 40T with a Deore mech...perfect candidate.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

My 42T arrives tomorrow and the GoatLink sometime next week as it just shipped today. I'll be sure to report back when I have a ride or three on it.


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## DeArman (Jun 11, 2014)

dledinger said:


> To be fair, I don't think we'll really know much about the GoatLink until a few people try both side by side.
> 
> I suspect the GoatLink will work pretty dang good with a 40 tooth setup, will work far better than a b screw adjustment on a 42, but still not being as good as a RAD cage on the 42. Had I not already done both of my Shimano setups with the RAD I would give it a shot. One runs a 40T with a Deore mech...perfect candidate.


I run a Goat-Link with a 40t on an XTR derailleur and shifting is spot on. My buddy runs a RADr cage with a 42t on his bike and his shifts just as well (I would say they feel identical in all truthfulness). I haven't compared the chain wrap between the two so I can't comment on that, but I would suspect the RADr cage would do a better job at that. My father will also be running the RADr cage on his Jekyll (he'll be 40t as well, even though you get a 42t to work with Shimano, I still feel like that's stretching things too far). I was interested in the Goat-Link for the sole reason that I don't like flashy parts that I feel shouldn't draw attention to themselves (like derailleur cages and GC's, that's purely an opinion though) My set-up appears stock and most everyone couldn't tell I had anything done.


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## Domester101 (Mar 21, 2015)

I know the Goat link has only been out a short while and not many people have one yet, but would it be possible to use a radr cage with a goat link for even better performance?

Or would this just make things worse?

I ask because I already ordered a goat link but my derailer is a long cage and I would like to swap it out for something shorter. 

Thanks


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

DeArman said:


> My set-up appears stock and most everyone couldn't tell I had anything done.


Believe whatever you want... I can see that goat from all the way over here! And I'm like a bunch of miles away! ;-)

Nice looking setup!


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

DeArman said:


> I run a Goat-Link with a 40t on an XTR derailleur and shifting is spot on. My buddy runs a RADr cage with a 42t on his bike and his shifts just as well (I would say they feel identical in all truthfulness). I haven't compared the chain wrap between the two so I can't comment on that, but I would suspect the RADr cage would do a better job at that. My father will also be running the RADr cage on his Jekyll (he'll be 40t as well, even though you get a 42t to work with Shimano, I still feel like that's stretching things too far). I was interested in the Goat-Link for the sole reason that I don't like flashy parts that I feel shouldn't draw attention to themselves (like derailleur cages and GC's, that's purely an opinion though) My set-up appears stock and most everyone couldn't tell I had anything done.


I appreciate your first hand comparison...I believe your the first that's been able to do that here.


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## stillkeen (Mar 22, 2005)

I'm late to this game, having lived with an 11-36 and 32 at the front for 18 months. When I went this route, I wanted a short cage rear to keep it away from rocks etc. So this makes my 42 conversion more expensive.

*I'm looking for a medium cage inner for my Zee*, and can't find them. I can find one on eBay, but the part number is different.* Anyone know of any stores that have these in stock *(ok, so I found one place, but it'd be $30 delivered, which is half way towards a new XT real derailleur).

Thanks


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## stillkeen (Mar 22, 2005)

*Does RARr now include inner and outer cages?*

So I've been out of the scene a while (new baby 6 months ago). Am I seeing this right, the RADr includes the inner cage, so my above post is pointless? I no longer need to buy a shimano medium cage inner for my short cage Zee to use the RADr?

Thanks.















Setup:
XTR-960 cranks with Black Spire Single Speed 32t
XT 11-36 cassette
Zee 10 speed shifter
Zee short cage rear derailleur


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

RADr includes both. RAD includes one side. They offer two options for cages now.


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## Eastcoastroots (Mar 23, 2014)

....crap. I wondered what those two extra screws were for and I guess that picture makes me realize how they should have been installed. OneUp needs to update their RAD installation video to include the extra RADr steps. :\


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Domester101 said:


> I know the Goat link has only been out a short while and not many people have one yet, but would it be possible to use a radr cage with a goat link for even better performance?
> 
> Or would this just make things worse?


Domester,

If you'd like to use the gear you've got (long-cage rear derailleur), the GoatLink would work great and improve drivetrain life in every case. In a happy accident, the GoatLink actually improves ground clearance in every setup I've seen- which could ease your mind about sticking with the SGS derailleur.

The combination of GoatLink and an aftermarket cage doesn't really do much for shifting- though it does address the interference that some riders are seeing.

I'll be the first to admit that going with an aftermarket cage will yield slightly better shifting with a GC42. If you were considering a GC40, there wouldn't be much performance difference between the two. SO- if cost is no object and you're comfortable with the installation process, an aftermarket cage would shift better with a 42. If you're looking at a 40, then you're not going to get much better than a GoatLink.

Hope that helps!

Marc


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## PlanB (Nov 22, 2007)

Eastcoastroots said:


> ....crap. I wondered what those two extra screws were for and I guess that picture makes me realize how they should have been installed. OneUp needs to update their RAD installation video to include the extra RADr steps. :\


Mine didn't come with these screws and they're not part of the (old RAD cage video). They don't seem particularly important, but I think I'll drop OneUp a note anyway.


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## JACKL (Sep 18, 2011)

Domester101 said:


> I know the Goat link has only been out a short while and not many people have one yet, but would it be possible to use a radr cage with a goat link for even better performance?
> 
> Or would this just make things worse?
> 
> ...


Wondered myself. I'm not an expert, but it seems to me that you want the derailleur cage to follow the cassette as closely as possible instead of getting further away on the small cogs. I'm running a RAD cage, ordered a Goat Link and will be trying them together.

I will report what I find, but it won't be directly applicable to the 11-42 setups. I've been running custom-stacked cassettes - 11-34 6-speed, and 11-36 8-speed. I don't have a big cog, but the problem is the same - the cassette slope is steeper than the derailleur cage path. I could still benefit from more wrap on the small cogs.


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## Eastcoastroots (Mar 23, 2014)

PlanB said:


> Mine didn't come with these screws and they're not part of the (old RAD cage video). They don't seem particularly important, but I think I'll drop OneUp a note anyway.


Appreciate if you could report their comments! They were included in mine last month. It sort of looks like they could be spacers to strengthen the cages and stop them from flexng and perhaps scraping the wheels during hits. I locktited my wheel screws well so hopefully they were optional haha.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Warura said:


> ARandomBik, dude 30T front is to small, on long not so technicall trails I would go to sleep using the fastest gear, I use 34T and am not using 36T just because it will not fit my frame. Do some weights, it help me a lot. I have helped friends get really strong with a constant weight training program. On the other hand I come from a competitive basketball training background, so maybe it just I have stronger legs.


I know this is the epitome of stirring **** up for no good reason, but I chuckled, nonetheless:

Snipped from the MTBR interview with Tinker Juarez-


> With components, we have the 1×11 now. I think that's the best thing that ever came out. It took a little while to figure out the front chainrings because you have some options. When I was first using it, I raced with a 34-tooth chainring and I was getting passed up the climbs. I was thinking, 'This is not right.' I realized the problem was my gear so I got a 32 tooth and it made the night-and-day difference. Now I know what works best for me. When I race, I race with either a 32 or 30 depending on how much climbing there is.


You're telling me you're harder than a legend like Tinker? 

I kid. Purely in good fun. I thought it was humorous. I'm not looking to start a e-penis measure-off. I'm no stud. I suffer on a 30x36, hence my addition of a giant cog. 
BTW, I appreciate the PM discussing unpinning my Cassette for the 42 cog. :thumbsup:


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Also, the conversion parts have arrived:
Fit and finish is, no surprise, top notch. Very satisfied.















Got it all put together. Shifting on the work stand is flawless. Pleasantly surprised. Shifting in the street is...satisfactory. There's minor but appreciable hesitation across most of the cassette. B-screw is literally as close as I can get without hanging up on the 42. I'm planning to get some trail time in on Friday AM and get a real idea if this impacts my experience while riding. I'm going to take the original b-link and if I remember, swap it out to see how the goatlink compares back-to-back.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Another stealthy setup. Looks good RandomBiker.


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## sloonz (Apr 15, 2012)

I don't have any upshift issues with only the 42T WT cog but I didn't like the amount that I had to crank the B-screw. It seemed to put a lot of stress on the drivetrain and much reduced chain wrap on the cassette. After installing the GoatLink I could see the improvement in chain wrap as I backed the B-screw out closer to stock settings. I would say I don't see a significant improvement in shifting performance but I do feel that there is much less stress on the drivetrain. Shifting is so close to stock that I have no complaints. So close that it's negligible.


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## Warura (Oct 21, 2013)

Sorry, I didnt mean to sound like I wanted to start a debate, just wanted to give info on what has worked for me to get stronger. Maybe my local trails are not that tech, but we do have nasty climbs. And yes, every mod we make is for our personal preference. Peace.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

sloonz said:


> I don't have any upshift issues with only the 42T WT cog but I didn't like the amount that I had to crank the B-screw. It seemed to put a lot of stress on the drivetrain and much reduced chain wrap on the cassette. After installing the GoatLink I could see the improvement in chain wrap as I backed the B-screw out closer to stock settings. I would say I don't see a significant improvement in shifting performance but I do feel that there is much less stress on the drivetrain. Shifting is so close to stock that I have no complaints. So close that it's negligible.


I got some trail time on my new GoatLink + 42T + 16T setup this morning. I generally agree with the above. My b-screw is about 2/3 of max, and the drivetrain feels/looks like its under only moderate strain. 
I rode 90 mins on some pretty rocky technical trails that required lots of shifting across the whole cassette. I tried to use the 36 as much as I could, but really enjoyed having the 42T. Shifting on the trail was similar to what I felt in the driveway: somewhat less precise overall, especially on the 19/16/13/11 but generally satisfactory. I found the 42/36/32/28 to be essentially as good as stock.

Oddly enough, I dropped the chain once. Something that never happened in months of riding on the 30x36. I'm pretty certain it wass a circumstantial fluke- in high gear (30x11) coasting over some really really rough terrain. Like fist to head sized river rock creek bed at max speed. obvioulsy had to add a few links to accomodate the 42, so 30x11 is a little less tension, even clutched.

First impressions are solidly positive. Im sure that as well as the 42 works, a 40 would be nothing but awesome. Something to consider.


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## Funkyjim (Mar 26, 2015)

I recently converted my 2013 Scott Spark from a Shimano XT triple to the Wolftooth 1x10 set-up. I have the 32t front and 42t/16t rear conversions, with the extra long b-screw. Worked great, but was a little tight in the back with the b-screw bolted really far in. I received the Goatlink a couple of weeks later (when they came out) and it smoothed out everything. I was able to ease off the b-screw and the whole thing just shifted great after that. 

I have a bunch of rides in now and a 25 mile race, and all works nicely. I have had no issues at all with chain drops or anything, since I didn't add a chain guide. I am very happy with the setup so far. The jump from the 36 to 42 is actually a lot smoother than expected as well. It did take some doing at first to get that rear derailleur just right, which I ended up taking to my LBS to dial it in correctly. Super light weight and super efficient, I don't miss those 20 other gears either. I'll post a pic here as soon as I take one.


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## sloonz (Apr 15, 2012)

I should mention that I'm setup with the following:

Cassette: SLX HG81, 11-36 - 16T and 42T Wolftooth cog
Derailleur: XT M786 GS Shadow Plus - with Goatlink
Chainring: Raceface 30T NW 

I had zero issues removing the cassette rivets to install the 42T cog. The process to upgrade was very simple. I highly recommend using the 16T to keep the gaps between ratios closer. It's really a good system and I'm pretty picky about my bikes shifting accurately.


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## DeArman (Jun 11, 2014)

I've got another setup I can review now as well, kind of with a curve-ball that I don't believe has been reviewed in this thread yet (show me up if I'm wrong please!)

I'm building a new Jekyll for my father and ordered the wrong WolfTooth GC. The bike comes with a Sun-Race Cassette, and I had a SRAM laying around so I was going to order a SRAM 40t GC and throw it on the Jekyll. Long story short, neither my father or I have owned anything SRAM in years so I automatically clicked the "Shimano" option out of habit. When it came in I realized what I'd done, and tried to come up with a quick solution (we didn't have any compatible Shimano cassette's in the shop I'm employed with), and remembered someone saying that SunRace cassette's are nearly the same as Shimano's, so I went ahead and tried out the SunRace cassette. With a WolfTooth 40t and 16t in place, along with a RadR cage, I can report that shifting is spot-on, with no "laginess" even. I will upload photo's later tonight, but I can't believe I used to doubt these conversions. If done completely right, there's no sacrifice in shift performance. Until 11-speed prices drop, I'm firmly planted in these conversions!


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## Funkyjim (Mar 26, 2015)

Here are my specs and pics:

Shimano XT Rear Derailleur w/ Goatlink
Shimano XT Cassette (was 11-36T)
Wolftooth 42T GC cog for Shimano
Wolftooth 16T cassette cog
Shimano XT Crankset (was triple)
Wolftooth 32T Dropstop Chainring
KMC hollow pin chain
No complaints.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

ARandomBiker said:


> My b-screw is about 2/3 of max, and the drivetrain feels/looks like its under only moderate strain...
> First impressions are solidly positive. Im sure that as well as the 42 works, a 40 would be nothing but awesome. Something to consider.


ARandomBiker,

Thank you (and everyone else) for taking a chance on this- and for sharing your thoughts! I think that you've hit the nail on the head. With a fresh(or relatively fresh) drivetrain and a 42, the GoatLink's main benefits will come in terms of chain engagement and reduced wear. That increased engagement helps to keep shifting from going downhill as quickly as it would with a cranked B-screw.

With an 11-40 cassette, shifting is improved even when new. It won't quite be Shimano-perfect, but it will approach it.


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## Rossipremier158 (Apr 9, 2010)

CrozCountry said:


> Now we have two similar products to create a cheap 1x conversion with 11-42T cassette for sram and shimano. Full shimano 11-42 drivetrain, dream comes true!
> 
> OneUp Components 40T/42T Sprocket
> Wolf Tooth Components 42T Giant Cog
> ...


I've been searching everywhere for some reviews of the E13 Extended Range 42t Cog and have been coming up mostly empty. Most seem to be using OneUP or Wolf.

I'm leaning Wolf Tooth for all the reasons you listed above, but I'd like to know more about E13 first as it could save about $25-$30 on the conversion depending on where you get them from. It's not a huge savings, so for $25 may not be worth the risk.

Has anyone been using the E13 cog for a while? Have any thoughts on if it's worth the savings over a Wolf?


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## Ultraman mike (Mar 20, 2013)

1x10 upgrade on a Norco fluid 4.3...24" bike

Wolftooth 42T GC
Shimano XT cassette 11-36
Shimano XTshadow plus derailleur
Oneup Radcage
Raceface NW 30T chainring
Wolftooth 10mm chainring bolts
Miche 12T first position cog
Token 12T lockring
Shimano Cassette Lockring Washer for 12 tooth Cog
Sram PC 1071 Chain

I decided to Change the 11T for a 12T first position cog . I completely remove the 13T on the 11-36 XT Shimano cassett. Shifts and climbs like butter! This mod helped my 7 year old daughter climb...


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

Go girl!


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## Ultraman mike (Mar 20, 2013)

D Bone said:


> Go girl!


Hahaha! ! Thanks... she was doing hot laps around the house before we went riding later that day... she is a little beast !


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## abrooks (Feb 1, 2015)

Enjoy it while it last..My not so little girl won't go anywhere near her bike these days. Not cool enough. I feel a tear welling..


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## Ultraman mike (Mar 20, 2013)

abrooks said:


> Enjoy it while it last..My not so little girl won't go anywhere near her bike these days. Not cool enough. I feel a tear welling..


That's to bad... my daughter and Son.. who is 10 rides 4-5 days a week in the summer. Also both do MTB camps. They can't get enough of it and all there friends ride also... that helps.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

My 1 and only daughter in now a sophomore in college some 400+ miles away at Sonoma State.......... Don't blink, or you'll miss it!!


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## Ultraman mike (Mar 20, 2013)

D Bone said:


> My 1 and only daughter in now a sophomore in college some 400+ miles away at Sonoma State.......... Don't blink, or you'll miss it!!


I know.. they grow up so fast! My daughter who is 7 thinks she is going on 27. Hahaha


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## micah356 (Dec 21, 2010)

Eastcoastroots said:


> Appreciate if you could report their comments! They were included in mine last month. It sort of looks like they could be spacers to strengthen the cages and stop them from flexng and perhaps scraping the wheels during hits. I locktited my wheel screws well so hopefully they were optional haha.


After reading this I realized that I had also forgotten to installed those screws. Well "forgotten" is probably the wrong word, since I followed the instructions that don't mention these two screws.

The screws are not structural in any way - they don't span the entire gap between the two cages. They take the place of the bent tabs on the original cage, that keep the chain from coming out of the cage. My guess is that on a rough ride it might be possible to throw the chain if these screws are not used.

But, if you forgot to put them on, it is possible to add them without removing the cages again. It's a pain in the ass and finicky, but easier then disassembling the entire derailleur again.


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## macdon (Mar 31, 2015)

With either of the following (Ikomar, OneUp or Wolftooth), is RADr and GoatLink mandatory?

I'll be using a XT RD M786, XT 10s cog and Zee shifter.


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## Ultraman mike (Mar 20, 2013)

macdon said:


> With either of the following (Ikomar, OneUp or Wolftooth), is RADr and GoatLink mandatory?
> 
> I'll be using a XT RD M786, XT 10s cog and Zee shifter.


No I don't think they are mandatory... but I have ridden bikes with and without and I feel it's a huge plus. My understanding is if you run a 40T GC you can get away with just running a Goatlink... 42T I would run the Radcage.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

macdon said:


> XT RD M786, XT 10s cog and Zee shifter.


I am running this exact set up with OneUp 42t and Rad cage. Easy set up, dial in and works awesome! Zero issues!


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## Funkyjim (Mar 26, 2015)

macdon said:


> With either of the following (Ikomar, OneUp or Wolftooth), is RADr and GoatLink mandatory?
> 
> I'll be using a XT RD M786, XT 10s cog and Zee shifter.



I was rolling with the Wolftooth setup (42T rear, 32T front) with just a longer b-screw for a little while before they were able to ship the Goatlink.It worked fine and shifted ok, but the b-screw was pretty tight in there. Not sure if that is going to be bad for the dérailleur or not, but when I installed the Goatling I was able to ease back that b-screw and make better use of the chain wrap the GL provides. All in all it shifts better and I feel better not having so much tension on the B-screw. Is the Goatlink necessary? Not particularly, but I am glad I got it and it's only $20.


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## macdon (Mar 31, 2015)

Thanks for the replies guys.
We do have both dealers here in Manila, unfortunately the WTC dealer doesnt carry the GoatLink.
OneUp's RADr seems to leave a lot of bikers happy but cost about the same as a bnew xt RD!


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

Anyone here running an X9 (2.0/2.1) short cage RD with a 40T? If so, how is it performing, and how did the setup go?


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

so the 42/16 tooth conversions dont work with the hg50 10 speed deore cassette? I would need to get a slx minimum and drill rivets? Why wont it work with a hg50?


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## Co-opski (Oct 24, 2013)

solarplex said:


> so the 42/16 tooth conversions dont work with the hg50 10 speed deore cassette? I would need to get a slx minimum and drill rivets? Why wont it work with a hg50?


cuz da hg50 iz all stuck toogether maken it all hard too reemoov cawgz. yoo kan make anny thing werk with a dremel an sum jb weld. our jus by n xt kaset.

^^^^sorry had a lot of Gran Dovejo that night.


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## ScottW (Jan 16, 2004)

Rossipremier158 said:


> I've been searching everywhere for some reviews of the E13 Extended Range 42t Cog and have been coming up mostly empty. Most seem to be using OneUP or Wolf.
> 
> I'm leaning Wolf Tooth for all the reasons you listed above, but I'd like to know more about E13 first as it could save about $25-$30 on the conversion depending on where you get them from. It's not a huge savings, so for $25 may not be worth the risk.
> 
> Has anyone been using the E13 cog for a while? Have any thoughts on if it's worth the savings over a Wolf?


I've had one on my wife's bike for over 6 months, I have the One up on my bike. I've noticed no difference in shifting or performance so I think the E13 is a good choice.


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## achuang (Mar 24, 2015)

Has anyone used a goatlink and a radr/rad cage together? I've been using the goatlink on a Shimano xt setup with wolftooth 40t and 16t and have not been entirely happy with the shifting. The goatlink did improve the shifting from unacceptable to passable. I've now got a radr cage and was wondering if I should go back to the stock shimano b link when using the radr cage or leave the goatlink on.


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## Co-opski (Oct 24, 2013)

achuang said:


> Has anyone used a goatlink and a radr/rad cage together? I've been using the goatlink on a Shimano xt setup with wolftooth 40t and 16t and have not been entirely happy with the shifting. The goatlink did improve the shifting from unacceptable to passable. I've now got a radr cage and was wondering if I should go back to the stock shimano b link when using the radr cage or leave the goatlink on.


I think you will be the first. Let us know.


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## MrEconomics (Aug 23, 2004)

Can we get a quick summary on experiences with Wolf vs One Up? Many people seem to be picking Wolf. Why? It costs more if you buy the 16t. A few pages back in this thread, people had issues with OneUp 16t, is that still the case?

Thanks peeps.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

I chose Wolftooth for two reasons:
1) I've read reviews and seen pictures indicating that the WT is made thicker and reportedly wears slower. I don't know if this is true, but I followed a discussion on this forum where a poster was dissatisfied that their OU 42 was skipping and 'dead' after something like 1500 miles; and wore out faster than the rest of the XT cassette. OU told him that 1500 miles was the expected lifespan. The same poster emailed WT and was told that they had only seen ONE GC worn out, and estimated it was *well* beyond 1500 miles. I don't ride that much, but longevity is always better in my mind.

2) WT came in silver, OneUp comes in black or green only.

I can't speak to the performance of the OU 16, but my WT 16 works flawlessly.


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## achuang (Mar 24, 2015)

I'll try it with just the radr cage and then with the goatlink and let you know how it goes. I chose wolftooth because wolftooth had a silver gc, all the reviews said the 16t shifted better than the one up version. And I liked the understated graphics of the wolftooth chainring. Also I got 20% when I ordered so it was cheaper anyway.


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## achuang (Mar 24, 2015)

I'll be installing the radr cage tomorrow or wednesday to let you know how the shifting compares with just goatlink, just radr cage and goatlink with radr cage together. My gut feeling is that I'll end up using just the radr cage. Is there really no one else that's tried this? I'm sure there's others.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Ironically I'll be doing this same thing this week- adding a RADr cage. It's a long story but somehow I managed to tweak the stock cage enough (rock strike?) that in the 11T cog the chain will roll off and in between the lower pulley and inner plate. Gonna do new pulleys and a hanger just to be sure. Since inner plates are pretty much non-existent as a stand alone purchase, the only options are new RD or RADr cage.


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## Ultraman mike (Mar 20, 2013)

achuang said:


> I'll try it with just the radr cage and then with the goatlink and let you know how it goes. I chose wolftooth because wolftooth had a silver gc, all the reviews said the 16t shifted better than the one up version. And I liked the understated graphics of the wolftooth chainring. Also I got 20% when I ordered so it was cheaper anyway.


Where did you find a 20% off coupon for Wolftooth?


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Ultraman mike said:


> Where did you find a 20% off coupon for Wolftooth?


I used a Jenson code for 15% off one item. 
I did it for both my 42 and my RADr cage
Theres a list of codes in the Best deals sub forum if you need one


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## Ultraman mike (Mar 20, 2013)

ARandomBiker said:


> I used a Jenson code for 15% off one item.
> I did it for both my 42 and my RADr cage
> Theres a list of codes in the Best deals sub forum if you need one


Ok.. thank you.


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## Warura (Oct 21, 2013)

I think its overkill to use both, each one does the same thing, push the drive pulley back, with the two installed my guess there will be some lag shifting. By the way, I still say goat link is a clever design, cheaper also but the hanger will have more leverage on hits and I also think it will rise posibility to bend or break the hanger.


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## sadevil (Jul 18, 2011)

Got a WT42 in Orange and 16t installed with zee rd. waiting on a fresh chain and Radr cage to complete. Will post results when done.


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

*RADr with aftermarket B-link*

We've had a few people ask us if our RAD/RADr cages are compatible with the 'Goatlink' aftermarket B-link for Shadow+ RDs.

Long story short, we feel you can run them in tandem but we see no reason to recommend doing so. The RAD/RADr+Goatlink gives almost identical performance to the RAD/RADr alone. The chart below shows the 4 setup options and the target shown in blue (stock shadow+ w/ 11-36T cassette).









*Goatlink* provides about *50%* improvement in chainwrap (affects drivetrain life) and about *20%* improvement in free length (affects shift performance)

*RAD/RADr* provides *stock* chainwrap and *120%* improvement in free length.

*RAD/RADr + Goatlink* provides *120%* chainwrap and *stock* free length

Other notes:
- Adding the Goatlink to RAD/RADr does allow you to remove an additional 4 turns of B-screw on top of the 3 turns that the RAD/RADr allows
- The Goatlink bolt has about 25% less thread engagement to the RD hanger than stock.

All data above was measured in house. Setups may vary.

I hope this helps,
Jon @ OneUp


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Wow. That's actually some pretty awesome customer service, doing the math for how a competitor's parts work with yours. I dig that.

For posterity, I never actually planned to run a GoatLink with my new RADr cage. I found the GoatLink to be less than stock with a 42, but acceptable. My cage got bent (body seems fine) and I had the choice of buy a RADr cage or a new RD. For good measure I went ahead and replaced the pulleys and the hanger, since I had them on hand already. 
Not sure what I'll do with the GoatLink now.


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## achuang (Mar 24, 2015)

Ultraman mike said:


> Where did you find a 20% off coupon for Wolftooth?


This was a couple months ago, a friend received an email with a discount code for a limited time.


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## achuang (Mar 24, 2015)

Thanks Jon, that's fantastic to see the stats with chainwrap and free chain length. I am running a 1x10 40t setup with medium cage xt derailleur and was very unhappy with the shifting performance. My experience fits with your stats in that the chainwrap was definitely improved with the goatlink however the shifting performance was increased slightly. The goatlink made the shifting acceptable, but not great, and I was very unsure of trusting the setup to shift when I needed it to. So that's why I've now got the radr cage. Since the radr cage by itself shows slightly better shifting performance than with the goatlink I will be running the radr cage alone as I'm less concerned about wear and am wanting improved shift performance. My whole setup has been wolftooth and have been happy with it, except for the goatlink. The radr cage was my last resort as if it hadn't worked then I would be going back to my 2x XT setup or getting rid of the 40t cog and running a stock 11-36 cassette with a 30t chainring.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Looks like OneUp is currently offering the 16T for free with your 40T purchase savng you 15$ over the WT option.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Looks like OneUp is currently offering the 16T for free with your 40T purchase savng you 15$ over the WT option.


They've been offering their 16t free for some time.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

HitmenOnlyInc said:


> They've been offering their 16t free for some time.


And they still are. "Currently"


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> And they still are. "Currently"


My point was that they have for a long time and it wasn't a short term enticement to buy their product. So "currently" is probably for the foreseeable future!

One Up what say you?


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

HitmenOnlyInc said:


> My point was that they have for a long time and it wasn't a short term enticement to buy their product. So "currently" is probably for the foreseeable future!
> 
> One Up what say you?


We have included a 16T sprocket for a little over a year. We will continue to do so for the life of the product.

Make sure to follow us on Facebook and Instagram for news on the latest products.

Jon @ OneUp


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## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

*Nice*



OneUp said:


> We have included a 16T sprocket for a little over a year. We will continue to do so for the life of the product.
> 
> Make sure to follow us on Facebook and Instagram for news on the latest products.
> 
> Jon @ OneUp


Like your new *X-Cog 44T Sprocket!!*


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

kingchickenstrip said:


> Like your new *X-Cog 44T Sprocket!!*


X-Cog 44T? I'm not sure what you mean...


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## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

FWIW, First time out on the OneUp 42-16 conversion on a 2014 Giant with 11-36 Sram Cassette. Worked great on the stand, and Flawless outdoors !


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

So I am on the fence. I am definitely going to finalize my conversion (currently running 1x10 with a 30/11-36 setup) with either a 40 or 42 rear. But at 90$ a pop I am undecided which way to go. I'd hate to get a 40 and it not be enough for climbing, or get a 42 and it be too much.

Would my best bet be to go with the 42T rear? Then if it's "too much granny" get a 32T front ring as a more cost effective offset in gearing than buying the 40T rear and swapping it in for the 42T rear?


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

i think you just answered your own question.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> So I am on the fence. I am definitely going to finalize my conversion (currently running 1x10 with a 30/11-36 setup) with either a 40 or 42 rear. But at 90$ a pop I am undecided which way to go. I'd hate to get a 40 and it not be enough for climbing, or get a 42 and it be too much.
> 
> Would my best bet be to go with the 42T rear? Then if it's "too much granny" get a 32T front ring as a more cost effective offset in gearing than buying the 40T rear and swapping it in for the 42T rear?


Just just get the 42 and deal with it.


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> So I am on the fence. I am definitely going to finalize my conversion (currently running 1x10 with a 30/11-36 setup) with either a 40 or 42 rear. But at 90$ a pop I am undecided which way to go. I'd hate to get a 40 and it not be enough for climbing, or get a 42 and it be too much.
> 
> Would my best bet be to go with the 42T rear? Then if it's "too much granny" get a 32T front ring as a more cost effective offset in gearing than buying the 40T rear and swapping it in for the 42T rear?


Both are very typical percentage jumps. The reasoning behind offering the 40T was to allow people with Saint/Zee RDs to have an option. With the RAD/RADr now available 42T is definitely the way to go (IMHO).


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

fishwrinkle said:


> i think you just answered your own question.


I suspected that I had, but figured someone at some point had survived the struggle to tell the tale.


OneUp said:


> Both are very typical percentage jumps. The reasoning behind offering the 40T was to allow people with Saint/Zee RDs to have an option. With the RAD/RADr now available 42T is definitely the way to go (IMHO).


Awesome. Thanks for the input. SRAM X9 long cage so fitment of the 42 shouldn't be an issue.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> So I am on the fence. I am definitely going to finalize my conversion (currently running 1x10 with a 30/11-36 setup) with either a 40 or 42 rear. But at 90$ a pop I am undecided which way to go. I'd hate to get a 40 and it not be enough for climbing, or get a 42 and it be too much.
> 
> Would my best bet be to go with the 42T rear? Then if it's "too much granny" get a 32T front ring as a more cost effective offset in gearing than buying the 40T rear and swapping it in for the 42T rear?


in terms of gear inches, 30x42 falls between 22x31 and 22x30. Also very similar to a 24x34. It's not exactly the 'uber granny gear' that a 42T cog might seem like. It's actually in the ballpark of a fairly standard granny ratio, around 18.5-19 gear inches.

This is the setup I have and it's great. getting a 42 and then deciding on 30 or 32 is a smart plan.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

And that's why I was considering the 42. My stock 2x setups best granny was 24/36 and 30/42 is as close as I can get to that with current products on the market. But I'm looking further down the road at getting stronger and not needing the granny as much also. At that time I'll just bump up to a 32 or 34 front.

All I lack now is placing the order


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

kingchickenstrip said:


> Like your new *X-Cog 44T Sprocket!!*


I got that email too. Looks cool.


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## sadevil (Jul 18, 2011)

So Here's my report:
My setup is '11 Tracer 2 with RF NW 32t, WT42/16t and Zee RD. Haven't recieved my RADr cage yet so tried as is. I also have the length of the chain where there is almost no tension when in the 11t cog and standard B-screw all the way in. 

Rode 10.5 miles with 2500ft elevation gain today,and I wouldn't say the system is without its faults but, I've done this ride with a 32/36 combo and having the 42 definitely conserves a ton more energy. Slow down shifting to taller gears was noticeable but not a hinderance. Chan wrap is less than desirable which will be remedied with the RADr cage. Up shifting to easier gears was good to the point where I really wasn't thinking about it on the trail. I could feel quite a bit of tension on the cable while shifting though.

I can't say anything about chain drops because I still run a top guide with a lower bash for extra precaution (no drops are better than any). But, absolutely, no chain dropping from the 42 to the 36 while back pedaling. There was a little bit of noise when in the 42t but I think it was more due to the chain rubbing the upper guide. 

In short, the 42t can be run on a 160mm travel with a Zee RD and function fairly decent. I think my main concern would be the chain wrap and premture wear on the cassette. With that said, I would most likely run this setup again. Although, I'll probably just upgrade to the shimano xt 11sp.


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## james12345pt (Oct 13, 2013)

I recently when to an wolftooth 42GC and 16 gear with the goatlink and found that the link does help with the 36-42 shift but is less than desirable compared to the RAD cage when it comes to the 11, 13, 16, 19 shifts. These shifts are still lazy with the goatlink and I have difficulty with the 16 to 19 upshift. I am going to drop the link and order a RAD cage today. I have the RAD on my other bike with the same set up and it shifts spot on. I know it is only $20 but I feel like I wasted my money.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

So since this is the conversion thread, thought it'd be a good place to ask, how do you think the new XT 1x11 is going to affect conversions?


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## Sketchemo (Jan 12, 2012)

Completed the conversion Wednesday night and went for a ride yesterday. One Up 42, 16 with 32 up front and Rad cage. I was previously running a triple with a bash ring instead of the big ring. The past couple of seasons I have made it a point to avoid using the granny at all. Last year I think the only time I was ever in it was if I hit the front shifter my mistake. Avoiding the granny has definitely made me a stronger rider. 

That being said I loved having access to the 42 for those difficult climbs and noticed that I felt fresher at the top. The simplicity of not having a front derailleur (IMO the weakest link on a bike) is awesome. 

The only issue I had was from a poor install on the Rad cage. I noticed too much chain slap during the ride. I had tension on the chain but it seemed like the chain was too long. I pulled the derailleur apart again and the spring was not set correctly. Fixed that and it looks good to go. I think I may actually have to add a couple more links to the chain. Shifts are smooth through the whole cassette, so far so good.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

TwoTone said:


> So since this is the conversion thread, thought it'd be a good place to ask, how do you think the new XT 1x11 is going to affect conversions?


I think the cost will keep conversions relevant. 90$ vs several hundred........easy choice!

That said, my conversion will be here Monday.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

TwoTone said:


> So since this is the conversion thread, thought it'd be a good place to ask, how do you think the new XT 1x11 is going to affect conversions?


Add to this the new sram GX drivetrain, a lower cost sram 1x11.

I think a lot of guys are using conversions on relatively recent bikes that came with 10 speed. On mid range bikes and up you will probably not see 10 speed anymore. Next year there will probably be Deore 11 speed, so 10 speed will become legacy. In other words, in a couple of years those will be made as spare parts for older bikes.

If you think of the cost of $40-60 for a chainring, $90 for a giant cog, $40/50 for RAD cage for a proper conversion (not to mention a new chain which usually goes with new sprockets), the value starts to diminish quickly, especially if you talk about older bikes.

Oneup started making parts for sram 11sp. Good call.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Finally got a representative ride on my conversion. I put a RADr cage, WT GC42, WT 16t cog, WT 32t NW ring, and KMC chain on my '14 Mojo HDR (XT group). My first go at it, I screwed up installing the RADr cage and either over coiled or reverse coiled the p-tension spring in the M786 clutch, ruining it. I tried to find replacement a replacement spring but they're out of stock everywhere and Shimano is telling dealers that it's a month+ out. I tried riding with the messed up clutch spring, but the shifting was terrible. I sucked it up and bought a new M786 and this time had the LBS install the RADr.

Shifting is fine now (no ghost shifts, no slow shifts), but the transitions to/from the 42t are noticeable both in time and feel, as is the 16 to a much lower extent. It's perfectly usable, but I can see being tempted by the new GX or XT 1x11 kits this summer, just for smoother transitions from each gear to the next.

I'm totally sold on 1x though. I find myself shifting way more often, because I know that 100% of the shifting is by the RD, which won't screw up. Before, on 2x10 and flowy trails quickly transitioning from short climbs to short descents, I'd hesitate to upshift too much knowing that I'd be forced to chose between cross-gearing my chain, or deal with both FD and RD when I needed to bail down gears quickly. With a 32x42 low gear, I get the same granny as I had before. I lose out 1-2 gears on the high side, but the only times I've been able get up to the free spinning point have been bombing down streets or fire roads.


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## achuang (Mar 24, 2015)

I've done one ride since installing the radr cage. My setup is WT GC40, WT 16t, WT 32 NW, and XT. I was running a goatlink before but was not happy with it and even though it was $20 I feel it was a waste of money. Also not worth returning since I'm in Australia. After adjusting the b-tension the shifting feels almost as good as stock. I'm not hearing or feeling any noises or clunking during shifting. I chose the 40t because I never had any intention of using a goatlink or rad cage and figured the shifting would be better on the smaller size GC. But now after installing the cage I at least know I can use the 42t without shifting issues if I need it. But so far haven't felt the need for a lower gear. I may consider shimano xt 1x11 next year because I would like more even spacing of gears. I sometimes notice around the 13-16-19 cogs it's too easy or too hard and need a gear in between. But for now I'm finally happy with the setup and shifting performance.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Got the RADr cage installed, it wasn't too bad but it wasn't as seamless as I had hoped. I re-installed the standard b-link and set the GoatLink aside. First I got the cage spring misaligned and there was about half tension on the chain on the 11 cog. After I fixed that I noticed something crazy- look at this clearance:







Too close for comfort. I reinstalled the GoatLink and it shifts great, with much more tolerable clearance between the arm and the 42T. Can't comment if it's better than just RADr cage, but it's working now. I would like to be able to run the stock b-link again. Just gotta figure out why it's soooo close. It's a good thing I had the GoatLink on hand or I'd have been stuck.



achuang said:


> I've done one ride since installing the radr cage. My setup is WT GC40, WT 16t, WT 32 NW, and XT. I was running a goatlink before but was not happy with it and even though it was $20 I feel it was a waste of money.


Interesting. I had a goatlink with a stock cage, and was reasonably satisfied with the performance of it. Sadly, on either the first or second ride I smacked a rock and bent not only the cage, but apparently the hanger too. Goatlink is straight, but since I couldn't source an inner plate for the cage, I had to either buy a RADr or a new RD. I chose the RADr. It's definitely improved, I'd call it 95% as good as stock, but had I been able to get a new stock cage for cheap, I'd have kept just the GoatLink.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

Threr is an important installation step shown in this video between 4:57-5:43. 



 Be sure you got that part correct. I had a similar clearance issue because I somehow neglected that step. I knew better, I just somehow missed it when I tightened it up. I pulled the derailleur and noticed my mistake.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

james12345pt said:


> I recently when to an wolftooth 42GC and 16 gear with the goatlink and found that the link does help with the 36-42 shift but is less than desirable compared to the RAD cage when it comes to the 11, 13, 16, 19 shifts...


James and ACHuang,

I'm sorry that you are disappointed with your GoatLinks. If you bought yours from the Lindarets website, you are of course covered by our 110% satisfaction guarantee- just respond to your e-mailed invoice for return instructions. If you ordered from Wolf Tooth or through a shop or distributor, their return policies will apply.

What we have tried to emphasize since the GoatLink's release is that the product's primary function is to improve chain wrap (by more than half) and therefore drivetrain life. Free chain, which we feel is the primary shifting-related metric, improves by about 20-25%- which may or may not be noticeable depending on your particular setup.

It's by reducing wear-induced degradation (500, 1,000, or 1,500 miles down the road) that long-term shifting is noticeably better than the status quo. Because the chain doesn't wear as quickly, it shifts more like new for longer than without. If you have -or anyone else has- questions, please refer to the "Technical Details," "Compatibility," and "Notes" sections of our GoatLink page or use our contact form to get in touch.

Again, I'm personally sorry that the GoatLink didn't meet your expectations. At the price, the GoatLink may not be the perfect solution- but for a lot of riders (especially those who can't see doubling the cost of a Zee or SLX rear derailleur) we feel like it's the _right_ solution. Ultimately, I'm confident that we, Wolf Tooth, or your local shop will take care of you- if not, be sure to let me know. If you have any other questions, please respond to your invoice or use our contact form to get in touch directly.

Marc Lindarets


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

achuang said:


> I chose the 40t because I never had any intention of using a goatlink or rad cage and figured the shifting would be better on the smaller size GC. But now after installing the cage I at least know I can use the 42t without shifting issues if I need it.


For what it's worth...

My wife is running a 40T and I have a 42T. We both have the same cassette & chain (XT and KMC). Both have RAD cages. I have an XT mech and she has a Deore.

Despite the cheaper mech I still feel like hers shifts a tiny bit better. We're both very happy with the setup, however.


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## KevinShoes (Apr 30, 2012)

Anyone have issues with any of these cogs? I'm looking to get one but have come across people having problems with the cog bending or skipping. I will be running a 32T up front (narrow wide) and currently have a SRAM PG-`050 casette in back with X9 derailleur, if that matters at all. From what I can see wolf tooth seems to be coming up with the best value/durability.

Suggestions?


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

I have not ever heard of a Wolftooth GC bending, but have heard of it with the more inexpensive alternatives.


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## Ultraman mike (Mar 20, 2013)

KevinShoes said:


> Anyone have issues with any of these cogs? I'm looking to get one but have come across people having problems with the cog bending or skipping. I will be running a 32T up front (narrow wide) and currently have a SRAM PG-`050 casette in back with X9 derailleur, if that matters at all. From what I can see wolf tooth seems to be coming up with the best value/durability.
> 
> Suggestions?


I am running the wolftooth 42T GC on three different bikes and never had one issues with bending or skipping.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

Another very satisfied Wolftooth user, I have a bunch of their stuff on my bikes and have installed a bunch more on friends bikes, and it is all great stuff. Excellent performance and durability. No failures or problems of any type. They are not the cheapest, but I feel that you get what you pay for and more.


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## KevinShoes (Apr 30, 2012)

VonFalkenhausen said:


> Another very satisfied Wolftooth user, I have a bunch of their stuff on my bikes and have installed a bunch more on friends bikes, and it is all great stuff. Excellent performance and durability. No failures or problems of any type. They are not the cheapest, but I feel that you get what you pay for and more.


I definitely don't mind paying more for a quality product. With finances being tight for me at the moment, I thought I'd see if I could get away with a cheaper alternative but that does not look like the case. I'll save up my pennies and go for the wolf tooth cog. But I still managed to get a good deal from the LBS on a race face chain ring. I'll post updates with how it turns out. Thanks for the input


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## Ipe (Jan 28, 2014)

I installed a pure OneUp setup on my sons bike: 42t GC + 16t, 30t nw, Radr cage on a brand new Zee rear mech, XT 11-36 cassette, and KMC chain. On my bike I installed a mix of OneUp and Wolftooth. I used a OneUp 30t nw chainring and Radr cage. Then I added a Wolftooth 40t GC, 16t and a Goatlink. This is using my one year old, well abused XT rear, a new 11-36 XT cassette and new KMC chain. The mix was mostly to balance shipping costs as I liked parts from both manufacturers. 

I found that his setup is overall pretty good. The shifting from 11-36 is just about perfect. The shifting from 36 to 42 is pretty rough. It is "ok" when under load. 

On the other hand, my mixed setup shifts like a hot knife through butter. So Smooooooth... There is no point from smallest to largest where it doesn't feel as good as brand new OEM Shimano. I am very impressed with the Radr Cage/Goatlink combo. Is it like wearing a belt and suspenders? Maybe, but there's no arguing that it works and works well. I think I'll be adding a Goatlink to his bike soon. 

All that said I am very happy with both setups. They are both clean, tidy, and a nice change from a 2x and 3x setup. I worry a little about not having gone with a 42t for my bike but we'll see how it works out. If need be I'll own two GC's. Oh well.


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## 274898 (Nov 29, 2005)

I am starting to see that the 42T/40T conversions like the Absolute Black are the way to go. For one, the aluminum cog gears wear quickly and you can't replace just the most used gears (in my case the 42,36,32). So, when just a few gears of the XX1 cassette are worn you have to buy a whole new cassette. With the Absolute Black conversions, you only have to replace the conversion part which is much more inexpensive.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

ipe thanks for the info. i have a goat link sitting and haven't installed it due to the chart one up produced last week or so. now i have to try it in combo with the radr


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## KevinShoes (Apr 30, 2012)

Just to be thorough if I'm getting the 42T Sram Wolf Tooth cog, would the 16T cog be something that noticeably improves the shifting after removing either the 15 or 17? How big is that jump if the 16T cog wasn't there?


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

I recommend trying it without the 16T first. For me, it worked fine EXCEPT for one trail I ride a lot. The 16T was needed because without it a lot of that ride was done jumping up and down trying to find a gear that wasn't there. If it wasn't for that one trail, I'd be fine without it.

I run WT on 2 bikes. One is 2014 XT rear, 11/36 w/42T, 16T middle, and 32T Race Face front. The other is 2014 XTR, 11/36 w/42T, 16T middle, and 30T Race Face front. Both shift perfect without any additional products, and I've not dropped a chain in 1500mi so far.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Well, my setup came yesterday. This is the first time I have had the cassette off of my new (to me) Spark 930. It doesn't disassemble! Had to run down to the bike shop and buy an XT cassette just to be able to install this. Turned out this 90$ "cheap fix" has turned into a 170$ adventure instead!:madman:

Oh well, live and learn right? Can't wait to test ride it this afternoon!


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Well, my setup came yesterday. This is the first time I have had the cassette off of my new (to me) Spark 930. It doesn't disassemble!


Which cassette was it? SLX cassette needs to have the rivets drilled or ground out to disassemble. Not a big deal if you have a drill press or even a dremel tool.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

GuitsBoy said:


> Which cassette was it?


Deore 11-36.

Went ahead and upgraded since the low end cassette was eating up the hub splines pretty bad.


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Deore 11-36.
> 
> Went ahead and upgraded since the low end cassette was eating up the hub splines pretty bad.


If you have an alloy free hub, then that's your best bet. Pulling the pins will only make the gouging much worse as the individual cogs spin independantly, where as an aluminum carrier spreads the load out and remedies the gouging.


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## shumaro (Oct 27, 2011)

I am getting whooped trying to get my cassette set up. I have a SRAM 1070 11-36 cassette and bought an e13 42t EX cog. The hub is a Stan's 3.30. I can't get 10 chain rings onto the driver body. I have tried removing the 17t, i have tried removing the 15t and have even bought a 16t to replace both of them and still can't get 10 chain rings to fit on the driver body. 

Does anyone have any experience with this or advise. Thanks!


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

GuitsBoy said:


> If you have an alloy free hub, then that's your best bet. Pulling the pins will only make the gouging much worse as the individual cogs spin independantly, where as an aluminum carrier spreads the load out and remedies the gouging.


Which is exactly the advise my LBS gave me as well. The carrier is a bit beat now, when its finally toast I think I'll go to a steel carrier. I am not a total weight weenie and I hate replacing nik-nacs all the time.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Has anyone used the 16T on their aluminum carrier with success? Seems like that one floating cog would eat right through?


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Has anyone used the 16T on their aluminum carrier with success? Seems like that one floating cog would eat right through?


Practically everyone uses the 16T in this fashion. In fact, the four smallest cogs in the XT cassette are free floating anyway. With such a high gear ratio, torque is comparatively low, and therefore less prone to gouging.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

GuitsBoy said:


> Practically everyone uses the 16T in this fashion. In fact, the four smallest cogs in the XT cassette are free floating anyway. With such a high gear ratio, torque is comparatively low, and therefore less prone to gouging.


We (IE-I on the advice of my LBS mechanic) decided not to use the 16T and just ditched the 15T in fear the narrow width of the 16T and the soft Stans carrier wouldn't last very long.

Downside being that the jump from 13T to 17T leaves a huge gap and I didn't care much for it. I guess since my AL carrier is already gouged up anyways I may as well install the 16T until it gouges all the way through and eventually free spins on the carrier..........then go steel.

Thanks for the info!


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

With alloy freehub splines, there's simply no way to completely avoid gouging. But the smaller the cog, the less it will gouge. If your 17T pinned or on a carrier or spider? If not, that's at greater risk than the 16T. If you can push either through all the splines till it free spins, I will be very impressed.


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## ficosk8 (May 7, 2010)

*Jump from 12t to 16t with Sram X0 1080 sprocket*

I'm also wondering how to solve the problem of the jump between 12 and 16t. It's really a pain in the ass to ride with that setup. For my first XCM in this season (with 1by setup) I'll ride 11-36 w/o the 42 Wolftooth cog because of the jump.

Do anyone has tried to exchange the 12t with a 13t or a 14t from a road Sprocket? I'm thinking in ordering a RR sram cassette for trying...

Thanks for the help and have good rides!!
Francisco



rfxc said:


> Anyone with a Sram XG-1080 cassette do this conversion?
> I see these instructions, but...
> OneUp Components - SLX HG-81 and XG-1080 Cassette Special Instructions
> 
> ...


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## jon_ssss (Feb 20, 2009)

shumaro said:


> I am getting whooped trying to get my cassette set up. I have a SRAM 1070 11-36 cassette and bought an e13 42t EX cog. The hub is a Stan's 3.30. I can't get 10 chain rings onto the driver body. I have tried removing the 17t, i have tried removing the 15t and have even bought a 16t to replace both of them and still can't get 10 chain rings to fit on the driver body.
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with this or advise. Thanks!


Check or contact between the back on the cog and the hub body. The sprocket might not be compatible with your setup.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

GuitsBoy said:


> If you can push either through all the splines till it free spins, I will be very impressed.


Doesn't seem that unlikely considering how loose the OneUp 16T fits on a Stan's carrier. I uploaded this just a few minutes ago:


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## powderturns (Jun 19, 2007)

i think the OneUp 16t has to be this way, so you can align it to match either SRAM or Shimano cassettes. A little slack isn't the same thing as wearing through all the splines on the freehub body...
If you want to get rid of the slack, I think you can get a Shimano 16t.


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

I decided it really didn't need my 11T so I just took it out and added the 42T and called it a day. Nothing i ride has any long straight away or fire roads that I would need a 20+mph top speed. Everything shifts great, granted it defeats the purpose of added a wider range or gears but I need the 42T more than the 11T!


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## Warura (Oct 21, 2013)

I have the slx cassette, so had to break apart the pins, I just reused the pins, assembled it with some care as to not letting the pins slide out, so even if they are "loose" all the cogs still act as one group.


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Warura said:


> I have the slx cassette, so had to break apart the pins, I just reused the pins, assembled it with some care as to not letting the pins slide out, so even if they are "loose" all the cogs still act as one group.


I dont think thats necessarily the case. If they are loose, I would think only the direct middle cog would spread teh load evenly, but the cogs at the ends would have next to no additional support.

Think of it like a teeter totter. If you put a scale under one of the seats, and sat a guy on top, the scale would weigh pretty much what the guy weighs. Move the guy towards the middle, and the scale would register less and less, the closer he got to center.

I guess some benefit is better than no benefit though...


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Hmmmm....I don't know. I've taken off enough old pinned cassettes to think they don't do much.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

First ride today. Love it!


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## dariusf (Oct 8, 2012)

Triaxtremec said:


> I decided it really didn't need my 11T so I just took it out and added the 42T and called it a day. Nothing i ride has any long straight away or fire roads that I would need a 20+mph top speed. Everything shifts great, granted it defeats the purpose of added a wider range or gears but I need the 42T more than the 11T!


Thats not a bad idea if you don't use 11T I would only use it when maybe riding on side of the road to get to trail head but not much at all.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

*New Conversion Sram Mid cage or Long cage*

Doing another conversion however this time I can choose the rear drl. On my son's trail bike I used a X9 mid cage with a WT 42 and it worked fine. Now we are piecing together a 1x10 for another bike and need to purchase a drl. I have read a bunch of posts but can't determine if a long cage would be a better option over a mid cage. New conversion will also be a 42T.

Thanks in advance for the advice.


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## james12345pt (Oct 13, 2013)

No the shorter cage will shift better. Been there done that.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

I'm running a LC X9 rear with the OneUp 42T and it shifts great. I honestly can't tell a difference when shifting up onto the 36 or the 42. It's that smooth.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

james12345pt said:


> No the shorter cage will shift better. Been there done that.


Thanks.........what was the issue with the LC?


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

james12345pt said:


> No the shorter cage will shift better. Been there done that.


Maybe. But depending on the suspension design, if it has a rearward axle path, a short cage can't take up enough slack in the chain. Using a short cage, my M6 has almost exactly two extra links at full compression with a 40t rear cog, and the chain is slack when on the 11t cog.

I actually ran a DS race, and half of a super-D, with a broken rear derailleur cable and the while the chain was slack, it didn't cause any problems either. Not optimal though, I'll be swapping in a long cage before I do anything requiring the use of the 11t again.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

richde said:


> Maybe. But depending on the suspension design, if it has a rearward axle path, a short cage can't take up enough slack in the chain. Using a short cage, my M6 has almost exactly two extra links at full compression with a 40t rear cog, and the chain is slack when on the 11t cog.
> 
> I actually ran a DS race, and half of a super-D, with a broken rear derailleur cable and the while the chain was slack, it didn't cause any problems either. Not optimal though, I'll be swapping in a long cage before I do anything requiring the use of the 11t again.


This is going on a HT. Short cage ok?

Thanks!


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

http://m.pinkbike.com/news/oneup-co...nt-for-wide-range-sprocket-cassette-2015.html


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Wow, seriously? 

Its not like one up was producing these substantially ahead of the competition, AFAIK. I dont think there was a direct copycat of one from another. To go and wholesale claim a patent over any large cog intended to be used in conjunction with a cassette seems a little far reaching, IMO. Perhaps I just don't know what I'm looking at, or how broad or specific the patent itself covers, but seems like a pretty lame move.

I know of one patent troll that will never see a dime from me, nor anyone else I can persuade.

Now if I'm incorrect in my assumptions, and this patent only covers one very specific one up feature of the 42T cog, and was never intended to stifle competition after the fact, them please accept my apologies. Sadly my uneducated gut reaction is that this is a cash grab based solely on who has the fastest patent lawyers.


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

It looks to me especially because they commented on the post that it is going after wolf tooth and others. I know wolftooth has been running prototypes for quite a few years. This is either a plow to get a big company to buy them or a last ditch effort of some bizarre kind with as many wide range cassettes that are coming out. Things like these GC's and the N/W chainrings are what make innovation and MTB gear interesting. I hope they come on here and explain or they are gonna be missing out on quite a few orders after this stunt. I was already planning on using more wolftooth stuff. This has likely made that a permanent choice.


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

GuitsBoy said:


> Now if I'm incorrect in my assumptions, and this patent only covers one very specific one up feature of the 42T cog, and was never intended to stifle competition after the fact, them please accept my apologies. Sadly my uneducated gut reaction is that this is a cash grab based solely on who has the fastest patent lawyers.





tundratrader said:


> I hope they come on here and explain.


It seems there may be some misunderstanding about what exactly we have patented here. We have not patented something as generic and ambiguous as a 'wide range cassette' or an 'expander sprocket'. Our patent is for a very specific set of features that we were the first to, invent, market and patent. They are cited in claim 1 of our patent. Shimano, SRAM, Race Face, Hope, E-13 and Wolftooth all have patents or patent applications for various designs. Not taking the necessary steps to protect our own ideas puts us in the unfavourable position of having our unique designs duplicated while our much larger competitors block us from their novel concepts."

I Hope that help,
Jon @ Oneup


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

OneUp said:


> It seems there may be some misunderstanding about what exactly we have patented here. We have not patented something as generic and ambiguous as a 'wide range cassette' or an 'expander sprocket'. Our patent is for a very specific set of features that we were the first to, invent, market and patent. They are cited in claim 1 of our patent.


From the patent:


> 1. A bicycle sprocket for use with a multi-gear rear cassette, the sprocket comprising: a chain engaging portion having a generally annular shape about a central axis, a radially outward edge of the chain engaging portion comprising a plurality of circumferentially spaced and radially outwardly extending teeth for mechanical engagement with a bicycle chain; a mounting portion having a generally annular shape about the central axis, a radially inward edge of the mounting portion defining an aperture shaped to receive therein a freehub body and a radially outward edge of the mounting portion radially spaced apart from a radially inward edge of the chain engaging portion; a plurality of support arms, integrally formed with the chain engaging portion and with the mounting portion, extending radially outwardly from the radially outward edge of the mounting portion to the radially inward edge of the chain engaging portion; and a plurality of space maintaining protrusions, each space maintaining protrusion integrally formed with and extending axially forwardly from an axially forward surface of a corresponding support arm.


So you're patenting a big cog with "stanoffs" then? I'm just not finding the unique details you were first to invent and market - though perhaps you did beat everyone to the patent.

I'm not saying that patents aren't important and don't serve a purpose. Surely they'll keep someone from ripping off a novel idea or technological breakthrough. I just don't see any uniquely identifying feature being referenced here. Can you break down exactly what unique feature beyond 'wide range cassette' or 'expander sprocket' is being protected by this patent in plain english? My literacy in techo-legalese is poor at best, and dumbing it down for me would go a long way towards easing my concerns.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

Good for them. It's just business.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

Bad for us. It's just business.


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

GuitsBoy said:


> From the patent:
> 
> So you're patenting a big cog with "stanoffs" then? I'm just not finding the unique details you were first to invent and market - though perhaps you did beat everyone to the patent.
> 
> I'm not saying that patents aren't important and don't serve a purpose. Surely they'll keep someone from ripping off a novel idea or technological breakthrough. I just don't see any uniquely identifying feature being referenced here. Can you break down exactly what unique feature beyond 'wide range cassette' or 'expander sprocket' is being protected by this patent in plain english? My literacy in techo-legalese is poor at best, and dumbing it down for me would go a long way towards easing my concerns.


I think "our unique designs" is the important phrase. The only way it makes sense is if they're trying to keep "people" from taking a OneUp cog and just making exact copies.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

richde said:


> I think "our unique designs" is the important phrase. The only way it makes sense is if they're trying to keep "people" from taking a OneUp cog and just making exact copies.


Exactly. Other vendors are still going to be able to produce their own, unique designs, and the end result won't cost the buying public any more money.


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

Patents can encourage and stimulate innovation. A patent protecting a particular design puts the burden on marketplace competitors to "show us how your product is differentiated/better" whereas without patents we'd have a race to the bottom of "who can make this thing the absolute cheapest."

Regardless of whether the patent is "specific enough" to the untrained eyes of the internet forums, it stimulates and encourages competitive products to be different/better, not just copies.

Kudos to those who exercise a rigorous degree of rational self interest in pursuing their business.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

rfxc said:


> *Patents can encourage and stimulate innovation*. A patent protecting a particular design puts the burden on marketplace competitors to "show us how your product is differentiated/better" whereas without patents we'd have a race to the bottom of "who can make this thing the absolute cheapest."


This guy gets it:thumbsup:


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

richde said:


> I think "our unique designs" is the important phrase. The only way it makes sense is if they're trying to keep "people" from taking a OneUp cog and just making exact copies.


I don't think that's the case. There's nothing specified in claim 1 isolating it to this unique cog design. It seems to cover any and all large cogs meant to sit on the inboard side of a cassette, and having integral standoffs/spacers. They have their arms reached out wide, and they're grabbing all the chips off the table.

Due to the size of a 40+ tooth sprocket, and the design of the 34 or 36 cog on existing cassettes, practically everyone came up with a similar design with standoffs machined into the cog.

One up's canned response, which has been parroted in every thread on the internet referencing this patent, does nothing to show that they are not indeed trying to cover all wide range sprockets. I don't think there is any misunderstanding. I think its a generic response carefully worded to mitigate all the bad press by tricking us into thinking they haven't done exactly what we all suspect they have. That bothers me a lot more than the patent issue does.


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## korivo (Jan 2, 2011)

Sorry for disrupting these legal issues !
But I have one issue of my own and I would really like to try that 1x10 setup !

Seem like the classic problem, but I can figure it out, so here is my setup.
Sram X9 Type-2 medium cage
Sram PG 1050 cassette 11-36
Remove the 15-17 and added the 16
b-tension screw is all the way in, without washer.
Spacer are ok.

The upper pulley is running into the 42 tooth, cant get the derailleur any lower.
I tried to add more cable tension, but nor result.
High and low screw are adjusted fine.

What am I missing ?

Got some issues


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Korivo, I didn't have this issue, but I think this is why some people are using the "Goatlink".

Edit: My instructions are at home, but don't they mention this issue in the instructions? I think they mention a longer B screw from your local hardware store?


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

I think the goatlink was intended for Shimano derailleurs, not necessarily for SRAM. Though Im not sure if it would work.

Korivo, you said you had a type 2 RD, right? So its definitely newer than 2011. The stock B limit screw is usually enough, though perhaps your derailleur hanger bracket differs from most. I cant see from the picture, but is the B limit screw slipping off to the side of the bracket by chance? I had this happen on mine, because theres a bit of play in the hanger bolt pivot. I wound up using a lock nut on the end of my b limt screw to make sure it made positive contact against the bracket. If yours is in all the way, you might try the nut at the end of the screw, or even to flip the screw around. Also, you could go to the local hardware store and pick up a longer screw. And lastly, if the screw length becomes unreasonable, you can try finding a way to shim where the b-limit bracket contacts the hanger.

One other thing some people have done is to add a washer under the derailleur hanger bolt. By placing the derailleur further outward, the derailleur will have traveled further to get to the big cog, and the pulley will naturally move further down. But I'm not sure a single washer would make a big enough difference. Perhaps some combination of all of the above is in order.


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## korivo (Jan 2, 2011)

Thanks for the reply !
B-tension screw has not slip to the side.

Problems with the derailleur hanger, that would make sense...
Anybody seen that before ?


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

korivo said:


> Thanks for the reply !
> B-tension screw has not slip to the side.
> 
> Problems with the derailleur hanger, that would make sense...
> Anybody seen that before ?


Yes, with my wife's Santa Cruz Juliana. Couldn't get enough B screw and then it would slip off of the stop on the hanger.

Dropped down to a 40T (haven't installed it) hoping that will ease things up a bit.


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

If the x9 b screw bracket looks anything like the x7 bracket, perhaps you could crimp something onto the bent tab that sits against the flat in the hanger? That would effectively do the same as adding more b screw.


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## korivo (Jan 2, 2011)

06HokieMTB said:


> Yes, with my wife's Santa Cruz Juliana. Couldn't get enough B screw and then it would slip off of the stop on the hanger.
> 
> Dropped down to a 40T (haven't installed it) hoping that will ease things up a bit.


I was referring to adding a spacer to derailleur hanger bolt.
No matter the length of the b-screw, I don't think I can push the derailleur lower then it is.
The upper pulley just get stuck on the big cog.

Having it further out might help to get enough clearance.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

korivo said:


> Sorry for disrupting these legal issues !
> But I have one issue of my own and I would really like to try that 1x10 setup !
> 
> Seem like the classic problem, but I can figure it out, so here is my setup.
> ...


The chain.
From your photos, you don't have the chain installed. You need to put the cage in the position it would be in with a chain installed, pulling the cage around will pull the pulley clear of the cog, this is what happens naturally as you shift through the gears and more chain is wrapped around the larger cogs, the cage gets pulled forward and this lowers the upper jockey pulley. If it still doesn't clear, then pursue the other options.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

korivo said:


> Sorry for disrupting these legal issues !
> But I have one issue of my own and I would really like to try that 1x10 setup !
> 
> Seem like the classic problem, but I can figure it out, so here is my setup.
> ...


I think this is the first time I have heard of a SRAM drl not working. I would double check that you do indeed have a mid cage. Also double check that the stop on the drl is installed / rotated the right way..........I have made that mistake


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

korivo said:


> The upper pulley is running into the 42 tooth, cant get the derailleur any lower.
> I tried to add more cable tension, but nor result.
> High and low screw are adjusted fine.
> 
> ...


Hey Korivo,

I have seen this before. 9/10 times the issue is that the RD is not rotated against the stop before being tightened. Try:

- Loosening the RD bolt slightly
- turning the body of the RD counter-clockwise
- hold the RD against the stop while you tighten the bolt









X7 and X9 have plenty on B-screw so if you're seeing an issue it is likely this or a damaged hanger.

Additionally the X9 has an offset pulley so the upper RD pulley will have more clearance once the chain has pulled the cage forward.

I hope that helps,
Jon @ OneUp


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

rfxc said:


> Patents can encourage and stimulate innovation. A patent protecting a particular design puts the burden on marketplace competitors to "show us how your product is differentiated/better" whereas without patents we'd have a race to the bottom of "who can make this thing the absolute cheapest."
> 
> Regardless of whether the patent is "specific enough" to the untrained eyes of the internet forums, it stimulates and encourages competitive products to be different/better, not just copies.
> 
> Kudos to those who exercise a rigorous degree of rational self interest in pursuing their business.


I think patents can often have the opposite effect, if they are granted inappropriately. Patent law is currently fubar, I hope this one is only used defensively because there is nothing innovative enough about their cog to merit protection from anything other than a carbon-copy. All throwing around a patent will do is increase costs and limit selection.

Bicycle drivetrain components like cogs and rings have been pretty close to a generic commodity for a long time, they often only stood out for exemplary value or quality. Recently there has been a lot of interesting aftermarket innovation in styles and applications, but it is largely based on innovation from Shimano and Sram, coupled with their disinterest in supporting any variations on their intended uses.

If I happen to think Wolftooth makes a bit better quality ring than OneUp (I do), I don't want part of the purchase price going to a license fee for a minor variation on some ancient technology. The last truly innovative feature in bike drivetrains was the clutch derailleur, and both major manufacturers managed to add it to their lineups. Adapting the narrow-wide ring to bicycles and 1x drivetrains was a great move by Sram, but it is still an old technology. We all benefit that the concept is not locked down, I wouldn't be happy about it but I would think Sram would be more deserving of license fees than anybody but there seem to be few takers on that, and today we have options that are not just a direct rip-off of Srams design.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

OneUp said:


> Hey Korivo,
> 
> I have seen this before. 9/10 times the issue is that the RD is not rotated against the stop before being tightened. Try:
> 
> ...


Yep! Glad I am not the only one that has done this.


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## korivo (Jan 2, 2011)

OneUp said:


> Hey Korivo,
> 
> I have seen this before. 9/10 times the issue is that the RD is not rotated against the stop before being tightened. Try:
> 
> ...


Thanks Jon, I will try that tonight and come back here with positive result hopefully !


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

VonFalkenhausen said:


> Patent law is currently fubar, I hope this one is only used defensively because there is nothing innovative enough about their cog to merit protection from anything other than a carbon-copy..


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## korivo (Jan 2, 2011)

Well there you have it!
Bent to sh** derailleur hanger.
Put a new one on and it clears the 42 cog easily.
There is plenty of b screw to play with.

Thanks everyone for you input !


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

Thanks for the feedback, as it may help someone else.


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

korivo said:


> Well there you have it!
> Bent to sh** derailleur hanger.
> Put a new one on and it clears the 42 cog easily.
> There is plenty of b screw to play with.
> ...


Glad to hear it worked out...


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## korivo (Jan 2, 2011)

OneUp said:


> Glad to hear it worked out...


Thanks OneUp!

On that note, might be a good idea to update your FAQ with possible solutions for a faulty setup ...
Good solutions were discuss here on this thread.
I am sure it would help weekend mechanics like me, which are most likely, the vast majority of your buyer.

Also, quicker answer on question asked on social media (I.E. Facebook) would be good company policy.

Having said that, stoked to have this 1x10 setup ready to roll !


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

*Special Edition Lindarets x Wolf Tooth GoatKit*

For anyone still on the 1x10 fence or looking to upgrade another bike in the stable, we've just released an edition of 115 pewter-anodized GoatKits:







The kit includes everything needed to increase the range of your Shimano ten-speed drivetrain: a specially anodized and marked WolfTooth GC40 or GC42, stainless 16T cog, and color-matched GoatLink. Because we thought that it would be fun.

The GoatKit is entirely made in the USA and sells for $115 shipped (with a partial postage credit for international buyers)- $10 less than if you were to pick up the parts separately. More at lindarets.com/goatkit10.


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## korivo (Jan 2, 2011)

Did my first ride of the season yesterday.
First time ever on the OneUp 1x10.

I had everything new (cassette, front ring, chain, derailleur)
Happy to report that it went flawlessly !

My legs we tired at the end but that is due to the fact that I am not in a MTB shape.
I only used the 42 on big climb and it was enough.

Solid !


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## KevinShoes (Apr 30, 2012)

I also just went on my first 1x10 ride wolf tooth 32T ring with the wolf tooth 42T and 16T cogs in the back. It was absolutely solid. I noticed a slightly clunky shift going from 36 to 42 but it was much smoother than I thought. It's awesome not worrying about a front derailleur and if you're cross chaining. Wolf tooth is the way to go.


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## Marc2211 (Aug 6, 2013)

Just to say - I have now done about 1200km on a OneUp n/w chainrings, and 42t rear cogs (~950km on one bike, 250km on the other) - not one dropped chain, and flawless performance in all conditions. Wear on both the chainring and rear cog is more than acceptable and I could see them lasting for ages. 

For range reasons on one bike I have switched back to 2x10, but I can't recommend the components and company enough. 

Importantly, I had one issue where I was seeing some skipping on the 16t gear at the rear when changing to it - I emailed OneUP - they sent me a 'new design version' free of charge with free shipping, and also a 15$ voucher off another item. Really, really happy with the customer service, amazing to deal with. 

(No this isn't an advert!  )


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## LaCostaClydesdale (Aug 1, 2013)

*42T Wolftooth GC and Race Face 30T Single ring*

I just made the upgrade to a 42T GC from Wolftooth and a 30T Race Face Single on the front. This is on a Stumjumper FSR 29er with an XT crankset (was a 2x) and XT Long Cage derailleur (no clutch).

Main reason for going with Wolftooth: They make a red anodized one.

Riding it in a few hours. Will post a review of first impressions.

I expect my old 24x36 granny and the 30x42 new granny will be almost the same. I am mostly interested in the shifting around where the 17T cog used to be.
PIX:


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## KevinShoes (Apr 30, 2012)

Nice set up. I have pretty much the same thing. For another $15 dollars, you can get the wolf tooth 16T cog if you don't like the 15-19 jump. I found it helps smooth it out.


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## korivo (Jan 2, 2011)

LaCostaClydesdale said:


> I expect my old 24x36 granny and the 30x42 new granny will be almost the same.


I would be curious to know how it was with the 30.
Did you feel you had enough top speed ?
Granny gear as expected ?

Let us know how it went down !


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## LaCostaClydesdale (Aug 1, 2013)

*Corrected for proper elevation on the trail*

Ok. Just got back. Have to say, first impressions is I love it. I rode a familiar trail that I hit 1x per week or so. It 1.5miles going up ~500 feet. Technical spots along the way.

Climbing: 30x42 is not noticeably more difficult than 24x36. There were no sections I could not complete, no technical obstacles I couldn't clear, and I wasn't noticeably more gassed than usual. I didn't set any PR's but also didn't go slower. I found a few times where I was not using the 42t cog where I anticipated I would need it. A small perceived disadvantage was that when slow climbing over some tech stuff in the 42T, the front end wanted to come up more easily. I think a function of increased torque at the rear wheel. But once I got used to it this was not an issue. just a little more weight on the bars in anticipation of this effect.

I did set some PR's going down. Not expected. This is primarily due to the flattish in between sections on the way down. I can now use the 30T and shift more quickly down to gain power and then a few clicks to ease up on a short punch climb. I didn't appreciate this benefit enough before switching. The ease of shifting up and down is really a plus. Did I spin out? No. I hit 34.4MPH down a straight fire road without spinning out. I probably could have pedaled through that speed and spun out. But I don't really need to be going more than 35MPH. If I do, then I will move up to 32T.

This is a rocky downhill trail with a few small drops and I did not drop a chain or have any issues with that. Also, I did not notice any difference in chain slap despite not having a clutch derailleur. That makes sense because before I had a 24T and 32T. So this is right in between.

Shifting. A little clunky in the 15-19 area of the cassette. I may go with the 16, eventually. But not a deal breaker by any means.

I am 100% satisfied and I feel like I am getting more out of it than expected with little to no increased pedaling difficulty.


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## LaCostaClydesdale (Aug 1, 2013)

One other note to add...my Stumpy has always had poor front shifting performance from Day 1. Started with XT Derailleur, but the bottom routing of the FD cable did not mate well with the XT design. I shifted to the SRAM X7 FD, which was better, but the shifting down to the small ring was unreliable. I would often shift and the chain would not disengage from the bigger ring. That is what got me to first explore this option.

Kevinshoes: If you have a similar setup...Stumpy 29er...i'd be curious if you had the same front shifting problem.


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

Good report. I cannot make up my mind on this. I want the 1x setup but feel the 2x still has its place. To get my climbing gear on fatbikes I would need 26 or 28. The lbs store owner who is hella fit needed a 28t so I know I need at least that so I am not pushing. The other issue is then when I am on the flats or asphalt I am gonna be spinning my ass off. Maybe that is good but I just don't know. I have been paying attention to this and everything else for quite awhile now. Still haven't pulled the trigger on anything. If anything maybe an experiment bike would be the right thing to do. I know that fatback here in Alaska. Sends about half the bikes out the door with a GC. So that tells me something. In sand I know I need the lower gear. Single track climbing for sure. Just not sure what to get. 

This is gonna sound stupid but would it be the end of the world if I had a 2x crank with 2 N/W rings? Just manually switch as needed.


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

I am still running 1x10 on my bike and for the most part liking it. Mostly due to fitness, I do wish at times I had one lower gear, but for the most part the 30T NW front combined with an 11-42 on the back works. A friend gave me the OneUp 42 cog, but did not have the 16 tooth cog.

My first take had a long cage XT clutch worked well but due to a slightly bent derailleur cage (stick got caught up), shifting was not where it should have been. 

After snapping off the rear derailleur (another stick caught up) I went with a mid cage XT clutch and picked up the OneUp Rad cage and the 16 tooth cog. The rad cage really seems to help make the shifting smooth and the 16 tooth cog makes for more even jump in the gears.

I only had 1 day on demo bike with a SRAM 1x11 to compare with, but I would have to say that for the cost, my 1x10 setup with XT mid cage, OneUp Rad cage along with the 16 tooth cog does not lack when compared to the far more expensive 1x11 setup. I rarely spend any time on any type of road (paved or fire road), so having the extra small 10 tooth gear on the 11-speed cassette vs the 11 tooth gear on the 10-speed does not worry me.

Cheers and happy trails.


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## Warura (Oct 21, 2013)

34.4 MpH? You would have to be pushing around 140rpm with 30-11 .... :eekster:


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

korivo said:


> I would be curious to know how it was with the 30.
> Did you feel you had enough top speed ?
> Granny gear as expected ?
> 
> Let us know how it went down !


30x11 I can still roll around 23-25mph pretty easily with a lot of gear left. I'm not pushing much harder than that in transfer sections anyways. I'd rather save my legs for the next climb!.


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## Washirican3 (Mar 18, 2012)

I recently went with a OneUp 42t cog with the 16t cog and I'm pretty happy with it. I run a NW 30t and an XT long cage derailleur in my Norco Range. The only issue I'm having is when going downhill over choppy sections I get some chain skipping when on the 11 cog. Been reading around and it may decide due to less chain wrap due to the B-tension screw adjustment.

Anybody else having this issue?

I think going with medium cage derailleur and the RAD cage should fix that.


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## trailwerks (Aug 24, 2007)

Anyone have abnormally high noise coming from the back after this conversion?

I have a zee dérailleur, xt cassette, one-up RADR cage, one up 42t, on up 16t, WT 30t front ring. 

Originally I had done the 1x10 a year or so ago with just the first mount Wolf Tooth, XT cassette and XT deraieur. Silent. 

The noise is like a grinding. I've played with the b-tension screw In and out. Not much change. It almost seems like it is the chain plates rubbing the cassette cog next to the active one. SRAM pic 1051 chain. Thinking about trying kmc x10. 

Any thoughts?


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

trailwerks said:


> The noise is like a grinding. I've played with the b-tension screw In and out. Not much change. It almost seems like it is the chain plates rubbing the cassette cog next to the active one. SRAM pic 1051 chain. Thinking about trying kmc x10.
> 
> Any thoughts?


@trailwerks - My immediate thought is that the chain is running on the wrong side of the cage pin (I've done this myself). Can you send a photo?

Jon @ OneUp


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## trailwerks (Aug 24, 2007)

OneUp said:


> @trailwerks - My immediate thought is that the chain is running on the wrong side of the cage pin (I've done this myself). Can you send a photo?
> 
> Jon @ OneUp


Jon,

My apologies. Failed to mention it only happens on the largest 3 or 4 cogs. When in the 42t it almost disappears.

Also have the 42t and 16t one-up with Sram x7 type 2 on my fatbike. Don't notice the sound on it.

Photo attached 









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Calzor Suzay (Jun 18, 2007)

How many jockey wheels you got on that?

*edit*
Maybe it has got 2 just looks funny in the photo


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## trailwerks (Aug 24, 2007)

Calzor Suzay said:


> How many jockey wheels you got on that?
> 
> *edit*
> Maybe it has got 2 just looks funny in the photo


Yeah. Was gonna say something smart ass. It's got two. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## trailwerks (Aug 24, 2007)

I should also note it just has the normal drivetrain noise when pedaling or in the repair stand. Only gets loud when you are grunting up something hard. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Warura (Oct 21, 2013)

Got almost same setup, 34T and sometimes a 30T upfront. Same zee der witht the radr cage, no noise, no grinding.... One time I was playing with the limit screws
On the zee and made the 11T a little offcenteref, which made every other cog offcentered, and on some cogs it made a grinding noise. So basically I offset all the cassette. Check the limits. Also cant tell from the pic, but is the der installed correctly? The end touching the hanger bump?


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Warura said:


> One time I was playing with the limit screws
> On the zee and made the 11T a little offcenteref, which made every other cog offcentered, and on some cogs it made a grinding noise. So basically I offset all the cassette. Check the limits.


Limit screws should only impact the highest and lowest gears.

I'd think the OPs problem is more likely chain line or an indexing issue (cable adjustment or hanger).


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

trailwerks said:


> It almost seems like it is the chain plates rubbing the cassette cog next to the active one.


The noise is probably exactly what you think it is.

The first thing I would do is try backing 1-3 clicks off the adjuster barrel at the handlebar. If it's backed off all the way you will need to loosen the cable a hair. To do this I usually shift into the smallest gear, and just loosen the cable clamp a tiny bit...allowing the cable to relax...and then re-tighten.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

i have a zee and have had issues of the chain, sprocket and rd binding in the gears you speak of. there is definite damage on the rd where the limits are housed and the arm of the rd where the cable attaches. it won't do it all the time just when the ramps are lined up just right. it doesn't "seize", but makes an awful grinding sound then disappears when the shift is complete.


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## ChaseMe (May 13, 2010)

Has anyone experienced slight play in their cassette after conversion? I've setup a OneUP 42 and 16 on a brand new PG-1050 (11-36). All gaps look good, it ends up looking dead flush before the cap goes on. I have it tightened down pretty well, but I have this slight ability to rock the whole cassette off axis (like forward and backward if the cassette was facing me). Is this normal?


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

ChaseMe said:


> Has anyone experienced slight play in their cassette after conversion? I've setup a OneUP 42 and 16 on a brand new PG-1050 (11-36). All gaps look good, it ends up looking dead flush before the cap goes on. I have it tightened down pretty well, but I have this slight ability to rock the whole cassette off axis (like forward and backward if the cassette was facing me). Is this normal?


Did you properly place the steel spacer that came with the setup?


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## Co-opski (Oct 24, 2013)

ChaseMe said:


> Has anyone experienced slight play in their cassette after conversion? I've setup a OneUP 42 and 16 on a brand new PG-1050 (11-36). All gaps look good, it ends up looking dead flush before the cap goes on. I have it tightened down pretty well, but I have this slight ability to rock the whole cassette off axis (like forward and backward if the cassette was facing me). Is this normal?


Yup just a wee little rock to it. Mine has been fine on my fatback hubs and 6one6 hub. I used a wolftooth 42, dropped the 11t once and 11t and 13t and replaced with 12t. All good for two years now.


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

I only have play if I omit the spacer. I think its the same diameter as BSA crank spacers but thinner, around 1 mm if I recall.


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## powderturns (Jun 19, 2007)

ChaseMe said:


> Has anyone experienced slight play in their cassette after conversion? I've setup a OneUP 42 and 16 on a brand new PG-1050 (11-36). All gaps look good, it ends up looking dead flush before the cap goes on. I have it tightened down pretty well, but I have this slight ability to rock the whole cassette off axis (like forward and backward if the cassette was facing me). Is this normal?


I also experienced this, but it was nothing to do with the conversion - it was on a 2012 stumpy 29er, and those POS hi-lo hubs that came stock are garbage... maybe it's a free hub issue for you as well?


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## LB412 (Nov 28, 2012)

No play on mine. I've used both the one up and wolf tooth.


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## Warura (Oct 21, 2013)

I had this, the cassette play, it turned out to be the end caps of the hub that where loose (from both sides), and when installed the whole wheel had play, but at a glance it looks like the cassette since its the part making noise.


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## mhopton (Nov 27, 2005)

Here for some setup advice. Cannot get the newly installed 42t to drop down to the 36 consistently. On a 2x system, new XT cassette, new 1051 chain, new X9 type 2.1 rear der.

To upshift smooth, from high to low gear, the required tension on the cable is too much to let the chain drop from the 42 to the 36; it only seems to move 1/2 a clik. To set tension to drop consistently from 42 to the 36, it will not shift smoothly up the cassette - not enough cable tension. 

The 42t is installed correctly. The rear der hangar is straight. 

I'm beyond frustrated.....


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

mhopton said:


> Here for some setup advice. Cannot get the newly installed 42t to drop down to the 36 consistently. On a 2x system, new XT cassette, new 1051 chain, new X9 type 2.1 rear der.
> 
> To upshift smooth, from high to low gear, the required tension on the cable is too much to let the chain drop from the 42 to the 36; it only seems to move 1/2 a clik. To set tension to drop consistently from 42 to the 36, it will not shift smoothly up the cassette - not enough cable tension.
> 
> ...


I had to run the b screw at razor thin spacing, and then find the perfect balance at the barrel adjuster to get mine consistent. Occasionally It may still take almost a full crank revolution, but its usually instantaneous. Unfortunately there's no way around at least *some* shift degradation.

Also, make sure the low limit allows for a little overshifting.


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## powderturns (Jun 19, 2007)

*Quite Happy with RADr cage from One-up*

I have two setups on different bikes. Both are full suspension, trail-AM setups.
One is a wolf tooth 42t cog, SRAM cassette with 16t one-up cog installed, and SRAM x9 shifter and type 2 derailleur. The other is a one-up 42t cog on XT cassette, with the RADr cage, and an XT shifter and clutched derailleur combo. 
I've found the setup with the Shimano/RADr Cage stuff to be generally better. it shifts more easily and more consistently, and I think this is due to the positioning of the pulley wheels using a RADr cage, vs how tight the b-tension screw has to be on my SRAM setup. I also notice how much harder I have to thumb push to shift down with the SRAM setup. Other than that, both setups shift clean throughout the entire range, including over the One-Up 16t cog. That said, our riding tends to go up for a while, and then down, so I don't do a ton of shifting other than getting to trailheads. And I don't notice any difference between the One-Up or WT cogs. Perhaps one will wear more over time, but for now I can't tell a difference.
The RADr cage is certainly an extra expense, but given how cheap XT cassettes and other parts can be found at the moment, it's basically on par with a SRAM setup in terms of costs. I was a SRAM guy previously, but if I were doing another 1x conversion, or recommending to a friend, I would go with a shimano derailleur with the RADr cage. The upside is that the pricing on all 10 speed stuff should drop with the new stuff coming out next year... And then next year we have semi-affordable pricing on dedicated 11 speed groups.


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## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

Last year, on page 66 of this thread, I posted a review of the OneUp 42t and their 16t. The 42t was flawless, but I had an early copy of the 16t which didn't perform great. Oneup sent me a newer copy free of charge. 

After putting the newer 16t through abuse on rocky, roots, and technical trails, I can say that it performs great. It is essentially invisible to me. I never think "ug, that shift must have been the 16t". It feels like it was part of the factory cassette. 

The only minor downside is when I run a 28t chainring. When I get the right chain length for proper tension on the 42t, the chain is a bit loose on the 11t. If I remove links for a taunt chain at 28-11, my dérailleur gets uncomfortably maxed out at 28-42 when the suspension is fully compressed. So there is a little compromise there. The problem goes away if I run a 32t upfront. 

The compromise is minimal with today's clutch and NW technology. Though my chain is loose at 28-11, it has never derailed during fast, rocky, babyhead downhills. As a result, I typically run a 28t upfront. 

In conclusion, I love the oneup 42t, 16t, and rad cage in my stumpy fsr 29 with shimano xt dérailleur. The chain compromise has been a non-factor for my riding.


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## kevocastro (Sep 23, 2011)

I wish OneUp replace my 16t too, my drivetrain shifts up and down with almost no problem but I can always tell when upshifting from the 16 to 19t cog, spend ages on the shifter waiting it for acually shift

OneUp if you could replace my early 16t that would be great


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## ZHaunDK (Oct 9, 2014)

Make sure the 16 is aligned. It has two different setting when putting it on. One for sram and one for shimano


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## kevocastro (Sep 23, 2011)

ZHaunDK said:


> Make sure the 16 is aligned. It has two different setting when putting it on. One for sram and one for shimano


Absolutely, double checked the cog and also read somewhere that aligning to the Sram position (even when using XT cassette) will shift better but it didn't


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## Washirican3 (Mar 18, 2012)

Anyone having issues with dropped chains? I have a OneUp 42t+16, 30t NW ring, and XT shadow plus RD on my Norco Range. When in the smaller 2 cogs I'm dropping my chain constantly. Maybe chain length issues?


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## KevinShoes (Apr 30, 2012)

Most likely. With my NW, I have yet to drop a chain. I had my LBS (who has an awesome mechanic) set it up for me. It's amazing how minor adjustments that you may not know about can make all the difference.


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

I use WT, but I've only dropped the chain for good reasons. A couple times due to pulling a chain link apart, which eventually broke the third time I lost the chain. And Once again when a twig got wedged between the chainring and chain. 

Make sure your foot isn't kicking it off, its easy to do especially when re-positioning the cranks.


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## ZHaunDK (Oct 9, 2014)

Washirican3 said:


> Anyone having issues with dropped chains? I have a OneUp 42t+16, 30t NW ring, and XT shadow plus RD on my Norco Range. When in the smaller 2 cogs I'm dropping my chain constantly. Maybe chain length issues?


Only one time in the last 6 months, and was due to accidental backpedal down stairs. (one foot wasn't clipped in). Never played with spacers and such on the cranks, but the chainring needs to be aligned to the middle of the cassette. for me, going from a 3x chainring to a single, I simply installed in the middle position and it aligned pretty good.

running 32t race face with oneup and radcage on a xt shadow plus.


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## ChaseMe (May 13, 2010)

I asked earlier about play in my cassette. Found some general talk about adding a 1mm spacer behind the cassette on some hubs. So I did that and it's perfect now. 

I can report in after 2 days of riding that the full OneUp conversion is awesome! I had a 3x9 XT. I have changed to 1x10 with 42T, 16T, 32T NW, and RADr cage all from OneUp. Got myself a new XT RD, Saint shifter and SRAM 1050 cassette. Everything is spot on. 

There we're times yesterday I thought I wasn't getting into the 42T correctly cause it felt too quiet and I felt nothing. Each time though I was indeed in the gear, it just shifted in so clean I couldn't tell. As for the 16T, I really can't tell when I hit it going up or down to it. However my 2 days had very little high gearing, I rarely went down to those cogs at all.

BTW I used to drop chains at least once per ride. Any decent hit of air would pop the chain right off the crank since I've owned the bike. Happy to report zero drops so far.


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## Hoffmonster (Aug 19, 2014)

Post your setup for others to know

2013 Yeti SB95 Med
Shimano SLX Derailleur with Rad cage (L)
Shimano XT cassette went 10x42 with the One Up 42T kit
RaceFace N/W 32T front with Raceface Bash guard
Shimano XTR Shifter
Shimano 10spd MTB chain
Hope Pro 2 40T hub

It shifts like butter!!! I have had it on for about 2 months and had no issues with it.. Minor adjustments has been all... Very Smooth shifting..
the best part was the parts (except Hub) were under 500$.. 
LOVE IT!!!


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

One Up 42T/16T with RaceFace 30T N/W with the stock X9 long cage. No issues so far with a few hundred miles on it. Loving it so far!


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## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

*Another bellybutton....*

Another bellybutton....









2013 Cannondale RZ120 (Rize) -- 26er

RaceFace 32T N/W Chainring
RaceFace Bash
Shimano XT 11-36 Cassette
OneUp 42T/16T
Shimano XT Med Cage Derailleur
Wolftooth GoatLink
KMC X10.93 Chain

Shifting up to and up from the 16T is slightly finicky now and then with the RD clutch on. With clutch off, butter. Shifting onto and off of the 42T is like OEM.

Riding the Mohican 100 (km) with this combo in three days.
Woot!

_Matt


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## ChaseMe (May 13, 2010)

2007 Opus Stakh

OneUp 42/16T
OneUP 32T N/W
OneUP RADr cage
Shimano XT Med cage derailleur
SRAM PG-1050 cassette
KMC X10 chain
Shimano Saint shifter

Everything feels fantastic. Have yet to notice the 16T, and most times shifting into the 42T is so smooth I think it hasn't shifted at all.


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## hvc (Aug 13, 2011)

Hi,

My friend just helped me to install Oneup 42T (1050 Cassette, brand new 1050 chains, X7 Shifter and X9 derailleur). He did remove 15, 17 and replaced with 16 (The one came with)
It shifts very smooth when I rode around the block but he did not put the SPACER (that came with 42 & 16T). Should we put that SPACER between 42T and the cog ?
Please share what you think, he just finished so I did not have a chance to take it to the trail yet, gotta wait until the weekend
Thanks in advance.
HVC.


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## snoroqc (May 6, 2005)

My setup
Pivot mach 5.7
Race face narrow wide 32t
Wolftooth 42t + 16t
Shimano Shadow Xt + rad cage. 
Xt cassette + slx chain. 
I was not able to get the SRAM der working X0 Long cage. I swap the avid brake to XT and also the rear der. 
Shifting is good on all gears. Little hesitation from 36 to 42. B tension is not high (half way in). Chain length is crucial: with a chain too short, the pulley rub the derailleur cage. I think I'll have to change the chain + cassette more often to keep clean shifting with the 42t.


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## KevinShoes (Apr 30, 2012)

I've had the Race Face 32T ring and Wolftooth 42+16 (Sram X9 rear der) on my bike for a few months now. If installed properly, it feels like OEM parts. I only noticed a jump from 42 to 36 once when I was tooling around the parking lot and listening to any jumps. Out on the trail though and I'm focused on riding, I don't notice it.

One thing I've heard universal is that the rear derailleur, chain, and chain ring is going to need more service/frequent replacement due to the increased use and wear but not to an extreme. If you got 3 seasons before really needing serious replacement/service, you might get 2-2.5 seasons with a 1x set up.


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## Menel (Mar 15, 2015)

My setup

Deore 2x crankset
absoluteBlack 64BCD NW

XT cassette
Wolftooth 42t+16t+Bscrew
XT GS RD
SLX shifter

Goes into the 42 like a champ, chainline is excellent. 11t chainline is pretty extreme and cant backpedal.
Shifting is a little slow, hesitates yesterday, going to check cable-housing friction and retension RD.


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## Couloirman (Sep 17, 2010)

Maybe this is a dumb question, but has anyone put the 40 or 42 tooth cog on their road bike? I need something with a way easier bailout gear for big days of climbing. Just switched from a 12-27 to an 11-36 cassette with a compact 50/34 crankset up front. So that in and of itself should get me some more help on the hills, and I know my new XT long cage deraileur is only rated for 36 max, but anyone seen someone riding a 40 or 42 tooth on a road bike and did it work well? I have Shimano 105 road parts for everything else but rear deraileur is mountain as is cassette.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I don't think you can use a 10 speed Shimano mountain RD with a Shimano 10sp road shifter. You could run a 9sp mountain derailleur with the 10sp road shifter...lol...I think.


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## Couloirman (Sep 17, 2010)

RS VR6 said:


> I don't think you can use a 10 speed Shimano mountain RD with a Shimano 10sp road shifter. You could run a 9sp mountain derailleur with the 10sp road shifter...lol...I think.


Huh. Thanks for that. I'll have to call my LBS tomorrow I think I ordered a 10 speed RD. Going to try to make this work with the 11-36 and if that isn't enough will up to a 40 tooth bailout. Thanks!


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## kevocastro (Sep 23, 2011)

Couloirman said:


> Huh. Thanks for that. I'll have to call my LBS tomorrow I think I ordered a 10 speed RD. Going to try to make this work with the 11-36 and if that isn't enough will up to a 40 tooth bailout. Thanks!


On the other hand you could go the SRAM route, SRAM dual shifters and X9 or Apex rear mech


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Couloirman said:


> Maybe this is a dumb question, but has anyone put the 40 or 42 tooth cog on their road bike?


Not dumb at all! A wide-range cassette will provide an extra-low bailout on your double or make a one-by road drivetrain feasible (a 48:40 is equivalent to a 36x30). Stay tuned to Lindarets' and Wolf Tooth Cycling's media feeds- we could well have something that works well for 10s...







...and 11s...







...very soon


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## Couloirman (Sep 17, 2010)

RS VR6 said:


> I don't think you can use a 10 speed Shimano mountain RD with a Shimano 10sp road shifter. You could run a 9sp mountain derailleur with the 10sp road shifter...lol...I think.


THinking about this more, aren't 9 and 10 speed chains different dimensions so would this lead to poor shifting if combining a 9 speed mountain deraileur with a large range cassette (in my case would be either 11-36 or 11-42 if all goes to plan)


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## hvc (Aug 13, 2011)

Anyone knows that I should use the spacer that come with Oneup 42T ?

Thanks,
HVC



hvc said:


> Hi,
> 
> My friend just helped me to install Oneup 42T (1050 Cassette, brand new 1050 chains, X7 Shifter and X9 derailleur). He did remove 15, 17 and replaced with 16 (The one came with)
> It shifts very smooth when I rode around the block but he did not put the SPACER (that came with 42 & 16T). Should we put that SPACER between 42T and the cog ?
> ...


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## KevinShoes (Apr 30, 2012)

I have a Race Face 32T ring and an 11-42 Wolf tooth modified casette. I recently dropped a chain (it fell on the BB side) at a race and was considering a guide. The drop wasn't a huge deal but it definitely added a good amount of time in a tight race.

I know the design of the N/W ring is supposed to really limit chain drops but I was wondering would you run a guide? Or should I just chalk this up to one of those small chances that got me at the wrong time and keep my set up unchanged?

Any suggestions on a guide, if you recommend one would be great too.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

KevinShoes said:


> I have a Race Face 32T ring and an 11-42 Wolf tooth modified casette. I recently dropped a chain (it fell on the BB side) at a race and was considering a guide. The drop wasn't a huge deal but it definitely added a good amount of time in a tight race.
> 
> I know the design of the N/W ring is supposed to really limit chain drops but I was wondering would you run a guide? Or should I just chalk this up to one of those small chances that got me at the wrong time and keep my set up unchanged?
> 
> Any suggestions on a guide, if you recommend one would be great too.


It could just be awful luck, was it your first drop with the setup? Do you run a clutched derailleur, and how old is the 32t ring? If you are not running a clutched derailleur, get one, although I expect that you already are. If your RF 32t has some significant age on it, replace it, they seem to start losing chains as they age. All N/W rings do, although RF has teeth on the shallow side and don't hold up as well as some others. I am a fan of Wolftooth's rings and I have yet to have a drop on one with them on a few bikes. I think they hold up better than most, too. In my experience a Shadow+ derailleur and WT ring is damn near impossible to shake a ring off of. Personally I hope to never run another chain guide, but maybe you ride rougher stuff than me and could benefit from one.


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## KevinShoes (Apr 30, 2012)

RD is a new SRAM X9 so it's clutch and the ring was just put on a month or so ago. It was my first drop. I think it was just rotten luck riding on rough New England single track in wet conditions.

I've seen a lot of pro bike set ups with 1x and chain guides so I was considering it for myself as well. I'll update when I think it over more.


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## paradiseburning (Sep 12, 2012)

Great thread everyone!

I'm wondering if either WT of OU 40t is compatible with older Sram non-clutch derailleurs.

Specifically I'm using a 2012 XO medium cage (non-clutch).

My upper jockey wheel is offset from the pivot, but is there any other reason why older Sram models won't shift as well with these extended cogs?

Also, what's the general consensus on OU's 16t cog? 
Has it improved since people were griping about it 60 pages ago?

Thanks!


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

Seems like One up components is working on a 10-45 11-speed wide range cassette provides the ten-tooth high gear of a SRAM XX1 cassette without requiring an XD driver. It accepts large cogs up to 45 teeth.

Sounds awesome.


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## PiroChu (Apr 8, 2004)

*Wolf Tooth "steel" chainring (104/BCD, 30T, $100)*

By the way, whether with OneUp or Wolf Tooth 1x10 cassette conversion in the rear, anyone also using Wolf Tooth's 104/BCD *steel* 30T chainring ($100) up front?

104 BCD Stainless Steel Chainrings ? wolftoothcomponents.com

Is this $100 worth it? Much-much belatedly, I'm finally thinking of converting my ancient bash+2x9 setup to a 1x10 setup (30T x 11-42T).  With my current bash+2x9 setup, I've been using Truvativ steel chainrings, which are pretty cheap & last a long time; hence my asking...

Thanks,
- PiroChu


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

WOw that's a real nice chainring to bad im using a 102 BCD. A little expensive but still worth it in the long run. Should last a long time.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

check out this thread...
http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/help-me-choose-xtr-xt-upgrade-986145.html
especially post #7 has some good values listed.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

I have been having chain drop issues on my X9 long cage RD (non clutch). Shopping around I am seeing the X9 Type 2.1 shows all of their cage options fit up to 36T. To reduce confusion would I be best off to just go back with another long cage instead of risking the short or medium being too small for a OneUp 42T?

Also, will my current X7 shifter work with this? Or do I need a clutch specific shifter as well? I see a lot of people/posts changing shifters when they upgrade to a clutch RD, but is that necessary since I am sticking with SRAM components?


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> I have been having chain drop issues on my X9 long cage RD (non clutch). Shopping around I am seeing the X9 Type 2.1 shows all of their cage options fit up to 36T. To reduce confusion would I be best off to just go back with another long cage instead of risking the short or medium being too small for a OneUp 42T?
> 
> Also, will my current X7 shifter work with this? Or do I need a clutch specific shifter as well? I see a lot of people/posts changing shifters when they upgrade to a clutch RD, but is that necessary since I am sticking with SRAM components?


Are you running 1x or 2x? If no chainrings in the front, I'm sure you don't need a long cage.

I run an X9 Type RD (long cage because it's what came with my bike) with X7 shifter and WT42 ring with no issues.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

fefillo said:


> Are you running 1x or 2x? If no chainrings in the front, I'm sure you don't need a long cage.


1x
30T RaceFace NW on a full suspension Scott Spark.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

Yep, mid-cage Type 2.1 will do the trick with a 42t cog. I've got a Raceface 34t ring up the front, XT 11-36 with a Wolftooth 42t Cog out the back.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Isildur said:


> Yep, mid-cage Type 2.1 will do the trick with a 42t cog. I've got a Raceface 34t ring up the front, XT 11-36 with a Wolftooth 42t Cog out the back.


Awesome, thanks for the feedback! I was honestly hoping the medium worked. From my understanding it holds tighter than the long cage. Previously I was not as concerned about chain slap, but now that I have mounted a set of Roval carbon wheels I wanted to reduce chain slap because it has been hitting the wheels! Not to mention it drops the chain on rougher/faster downhills.


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## derekbob (May 4, 2005)

Has anyone tried losing the 11T cog when doing a wide range conversion? I wanted to try it but the 11T cog is the only one made to interface with the lock ring. It seems like you might be able to try it anyway, or perhaps someone makes a 12 or 13T cog that will interface with the lockring?


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

You can get a 12T cog and lockring....and I think even a 13. But remember, you're adding range to one end and taking it off the other if you do that.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

derekbob said:


> Has anyone tried losing the 11T cog when doing a wide range conversion? I wanted to try it but the 11T cog is the only one made to interface with the lock ring. It seems like you might be able to try it anyway, or perhaps someone makes a 12 or 13T cog that will interface with the lockring?


I can't see how it makes sense to go to the trouble of adding range at one end and taking it away at the other. Remember, losing teeth on the small cogs makes a much bigger difference than on the big ones.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Does the "range" really matter? Why not ditch the 11T if they don't use it? You'll have smoother shifts compared to removing the 17T.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

RS VR6 said:


> Does the "range" really matter? Why not ditch the 11T if they don't use it? You'll have smoother shifts compared to removing the 17T.


You will have the smoothest shifts of all if you just stick with an 11-36 cassette, which is basically what you have if you start dropping teeth at the small end of the cassette. You are just creating a much heavier and more expensive cassette that shifts worse but gives no gearing advantage. If you never use the 11 then you can simply run a smaller chainring rather than put together a wide range drivetrain to get lower gearing.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Isildur said:


> Yep, mid-cage Type 2.1 will do the trick with a 42t cog. I've got a Raceface 34t ring up the front, XT 11-36 with a Wolftooth 42t Cog out the back.


Meant to ask, do you have to run the Radcage or Goatlink?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

To get something equal to my 42/30 with a 36T max cog...I'd have to run a 26T up front.

I run a 30T with a 11-42 cassette on my 29r. I rarely use the 42T...the 11T even less. If a climb requires me to use the 42 going up...going back down will take me to 30mph+ in no time...without pedaling. Thats fast enough for me. 



VonFalkenhausen said:


> You will have the smoothest shifts of all if you just stick with an 11-36 cassette, which is basically what you have if you start dropping teeth at the small end of the cassette. You are just creating a much heavier and more expensive cassette that shifts worse but gives no gearing advantage. If you never use the 11 then you can simply run a smaller chainring rather than put together a wide range drivetrain to get lower gearing.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Meant to ask, do you have to run the Radcage or Goatlink?


Nope, as I run SRAM, neither the RAD Cage or Goatlink is applicable. I just bolted mine on, played with the b-tension and off I went!

My shifts are really quite nice and with a 16t from an older 9sp cassette, there aren't any huge jumps.

It is worth noting though, the setup is MUCH more sensitive to cable tension and sticky cables. I suppose that's to be expected when we're running things outside of their original spec. But, it works for me and was much cheaper than doing the full XX1 change. Even now, I'd probably still stay with this setup, rather than going through the expense of a full drivetrain refresh.

Also, the full setup is:
Mach 5.7C
RaceFace 34t NW ring
CSixx XC Top Guide
Shimano 10sp 11-36 XT Cassette
Wolftooth 42t Cog
SRAM X9 Type 2.1 derailleur, Mid-Cage
SRAM X0 Shifter


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

RS VR6 said:


> To get something equal to my 42/30 with a 36T max cog...I'd have to run a 26T up front.
> 
> I run a 30T with a 11-42 cassette on my 29r. I rarely use the 42T...the 11T even less. If a climb requires me to use the 42 going up...going back down will take me to 30mph+ in no time...without pedaling. Thats fast enough for me.


The 26t might not be such a bad option, compared to a wide range conversion. Compromises either way, but I see your point. For me expanding the range is the primary goal but we all have our own priorities to suit our riding.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

VonFalkenhausen said:


> The 26t might not be such a bad option, compared to a wide range conversion. Compromises either way, but I see your point. For me expanding the range is the primary goal but we all have our own priorities to suit our riding.


Not sure you can even get a 26T running 1x10. I believe a few companies have 28T, but I think you have to have a direct mount crank. I know 30T is the smallest you can go on 104BCD.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Not sure you can even get a 26T running 1x10. I believe a few companies have 28T, but I think you have to have a direct mount crank. I know 30T is the smallest you can go on 104BCD.


There are several options for running a 26t, mostly direct mount but also a 64mm BCD for running on the inside of a 104/64 crank, with a 104 bash. You can even go smaller, Wolftooth makes a beautiful 24t stainless Sram direct mount, which would more than solve the wear issue with smaller rings.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Yeah....the only reason I went with a 42 is for range. If I had to lose on the other end I'd be inclined to find a better solution...like a front derailleur. No way I'd go through the trouble and expense just to end up with the same range I started with. I know AB advocates for this also, but it just doesn't make sense to me.


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## derekbob (May 4, 2005)

Thanks for the replies, guys. I understand the compromise of losing the 11T cog. I almost never use it. It's mostly useful for pavement and dirt road downhills which I try to avoid.

I'm actually currently running 11 speed 11-42 XTR/XT combo. I have a 28T (64 BCD) Absolute Black ring on a 2x XT crank. I still almost never use the 11T cog.

I was thinking about putting my old 10 speed XT with a wolftooth 42T cog on my back up/loaner bike. It would be nice for simplicity if I loan it to a beginner, and they wouldn't need the highest gear.


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## backinmysaddle (Jul 27, 2011)

Anyone try the OneUp 45t sprocket yet? Or is there a separate thread on that?


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## derekbob (May 4, 2005)

I just ordered this Amazon.com : Miche Shimano 13t First Position Cog, 10-Speed : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors. I'm looking forward to trying it out.


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## dariusf (Oct 8, 2012)

My existing setup, so far no issues

front

RaceFace 10 speed 32T chainring
Shimano XT HG94 chain
e*thirteen HIVE direct mount chain guide

rear

Shimano XT RD-M786 Shadow Plus Medium cage
Shimano XTR SL-M980 Shifter
Shimano XT M771 10 speed cassette 11-36
Alero bikes CS-152 40T sprocket off ebay
Replaced 15t and 17t with Woolf Tooth 16t (had to add 1mm Shimano spacer)

Did not change the B Screw just had to adjust the derailleur for shifting. So far so good.

adding pics


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## XC Mike (Sep 26, 2004)

Quick question for you Guys...
I have been running a 1x10 for sometime now and now I am looking to upgrading to a 40/42 and not sure what's the best way to do it...
I have a Raceface 32 NW and the stock 11-36 using a XT clutch RD.
Should I go with the Praxis Works 11-40 or go with a XT 11-36 and add the Oneup 40/42 & the 16???
With a 15% off deal at Jenson the XT and Oneup are about the same price as the Praxis Works


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

I don' t see the attraction towards a 16/40-42 setup anymore. For around 160.00, if you shop, a 11/ 42 Shimano Cassette w/ 11x trigger can be had. There are many using their same 10 speed rear der


Pedaling


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## warimono (Nov 23, 2010)

Yeah, I went from a WT 42T + WT NW 1x10 setup and just installed Shimano XT 11 speed and it is miles better. If you already have a setup and would just need a chainring and a extender cog, prices coming down on those makes it an OK option. I ran it for almost 2 years. My WT cog was chewed up and instead of dropping 70+ dollars on another cog I upgraded to XT 11 speed and holy **** it's way better. Shifting is more precise, I have the 4 down and 2 up on the shifter vs. my X7 shifter, and the spacing between the gears is SO much nicer. I feel I can use the harder range gears a lot more effectively since I didn't put a 16T in. 

If you are building a new setup go 11 speed without a doubt. It's a tougher call now with an existing drivetrain.

My RD, shifter, cassette and chain was $285 bucks in a LBS that matched backcountry.com price. They were already offering 20% off labor day sale as it is so it wasn't a huge difference. Even cheaper if you go with a UK or German dealer.

Don't mean to thread crap a 1x10 thread but if anybody is on the fence 11 is now affordable.


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## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

^^+1 on that @warimono, the extended 1x10 worked for me but always felt like a bit of a hack. The new Shimano 1x11 is a no brainer if you're in need of an upgrade or replacement. Chainline is a bit more extreme though, and backpedalling on the low gears will not be the same. A bit of talk about that 1x10 to 1x11 upgrade here:


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## XC Mike (Sep 26, 2004)

Thanks for the help Guys!!
So would my 10sp clutch XT RD work with the 11sp shifter??


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## warimono (Nov 23, 2010)

I think I saw somewhere else that 10 speed RD's work. The XT 11spd RD likely has a more optimized parallelogram, and I know it has an optimization where the guide pulley is offset from it's pivot so that as you go down into the smaller cogs it raises up making that gap smaller and shifts more precise.

Whether the difference is worth buying a new RD I don't know.


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## XC Mike (Sep 26, 2004)

Thanks can't hurt to try... if not I will get a new RD asap


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## charging_rhinos (Jul 29, 2008)

So what is the consensus in regard to Sram drivetrains? Which shifts better, Wolftooth or OneUp?


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## PiroChu (Apr 8, 2004)

*Omitting 13 instead?*



modifier said:


> I would use the 15 17 more than I would the 11 13, so I might try pulling the 13 instead of the 17 (if that will work) and see how that feels but still have an overdrive 11.


I was kinda thinking the same. Anyone else doing this (omitting 13) successfully out there?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I don't think you can pull the 13T. Doesn't the 11T lock into the 13T?


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## jimw (Aug 10, 2004)

PiroChu said:


> I was kinda thinking the same. Anyone else doing this (omitting 13) successfully out there?


Personally I found that it was best for me dumping the 17 and NOT replacing the 15 with a 16. For DH, I find that around here the 15 is my money gear. I definitely noticed the difference switching that with a 16, and I didn't like it. For higher speed stuff (think N*) I often use the 13, and wouldn't want to lose that either. The 17 on the other hand... I'd say about 90% of the time I was just double-shifting past that one all the time, both up and down. So now I don't have to double shift there. Starting a DH run on the 19 is perfect, then a few pedal strokes later I shift once and bam I'm in my money gear. I have a cassette that is basically divided into climbing and descending ranges. 19 and up for climbing, 15 and down for descending. Really no problems with the bigger gap between 15-19, and overall really digging this setup.

[Hey man what's up? Been a while... shoot me a PM if you wanna talk about this stuff, I converted to 1x10 with a OneUp/RadCage and it's awesome, though it initially took some tweaking.]



> I don't think you can pull the 13T. Doesn't the 11T lock into the 13T?


Not on the cassette I'm using (XT, also didn't on prior mid-range SRAM 10spd).


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Anyone having chain drop issues with the MRP Bling Ring? I have been running a RaceFace NW 30T up front with an X9 type 2 derailleur. Never dropped a chain with that setup. Recently got a great deal on an X0 direct mount crank and it came WITH 4 MRP drive rings (28, 30, 32, 34) and I mounted the 30. Went for the first ride yesterday and dropped the chain 4 times! 

At this point I assume a chain guide is in order? I have never needed one before.


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## jimw (Aug 10, 2004)

That Bling Ring is not NW, so you can expect some chain dropping w/o a chain guide. Or you could just get a NW direct mount ring (many people including RaceFace make these). Or get a spider for that crank (if it didn't come with one) and mount up your old RF ring.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

The guide is about the same price as a new NW ring or a spider to use my old one. A guide probably wouldn;t be the worst idea anyways.

I'll be mounting on a 2014 Scott Spark 930 (carbon full suspension), looking at the OneUp guide. Are they fairly universal?

OneUp Components US - CHAINGUIDE - ISCG05


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## jimw (Aug 10, 2004)

Those top-only guides are really for people already using NW rings who just want/need a bit more additional security when riding aggressive terrain - yep Enduro (tm) . With a non-NW ring the chain can still come off even with those types of guides. You can try it and see (and keep it if you do go back to a NW ring), but if you're set on running that chainring, I'd recommend a full top/lower guide, but then you're increasing weight. I'd just go back to the NW ring since you already know that worked well for you.

FWIW personally I'm still running a non-NW ring with a full guide (Gamut P30s), but I do a lot of DH too and am willing to pay the weight penalty for full security. But I know I'm in the minority.


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

my bling ring dropped every now and then on rough roots and rocks but now running a narrow wide with a non clutch derailleur and had no problems yet. I do did not like the removal of the 15t or 17t so I just removed the 11t as I never need that much speed in my local trails. Works great!


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

I am honestly hoping the guide will resolve the issue. When I bought the lightly used crank, it came with 4 lightly used chain rings. So depending on where I ride, I have gearing options. In GA I can ride 20 miles with 1k feet of climbing one day and 20 miles with 6k feet of climbing the next day, so multiple chain rings in stock is nice to have. A guide seems far more cost effective than buying 4 new NW chain rings in multiple sizes!


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

are you resizing your chain every time you change rings?


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

No because I have been running a 30t since I went 1x10.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Specialized and Santa Cruz are specing a chain guide on their AM bikes that come with NW chain ring. I never ride without one too. NW is good, up to a point, too rough, too much rear travel, too much air, chain will fall. On a hardtail/short travel XC bike, may not be an issue. But for bigger bikes, still necessary.


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> I am honestly hoping the guide will resolve the issue. When I bought the lightly used crank, it came with 4 lightly used chain rings. So depending on where I ride, I have gearing options. In GA I can ride 20 miles with 1k feet of climbing one day and 20 miles with 6k feet of climbing the next day, so multiple chain rings in stock is nice to have. A guide seems far more cost effective than buying 4 new NW chain rings in multiple sizes!


FWIW - We did a big chunk of the testing on our new top guide using old worn RF non-NW rings. The guide retained the chain perfectly except for two instances where I backpedaled while standing still in the lowest two gears.

We recommend NW but are big believers in not tossing perfectly good gear. Buy less stuff. Work less ride more

Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


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## jimw (Aug 10, 2004)

OneUp said:


> FWIW - We did a big chunk of the testing on our new top guide using old worn RF non-NW rings. The guide retained the chain perfectly except for two instances where I backpedaled while standing still in the lowest two gears.


That's pretty impressive, nice!

(I do a lot of aggressive stationary backpedaling though, so I'll stick with the P30 for now... )


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

OneUp said:


> FWIW - We did a big chunk of the testing on our new top guide using old worn RF non-NW rings. The guide retained the chain perfectly except for two instances where I backpedaled while standing still in the lowest two gears.
> 
> We recommend NW but are big believers in not tossing perfectly good gear. Buy less stuff. Work less ride more
> 
> ...


I don't have the mount holes for your new top mount unfortunately. I have a GXP bottom bracket and need a direct mount guide. From what I can tell your guides are ISCG and my frame is not.


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## jimw (Aug 10, 2004)

You just can't win can you! You might be able to get away with a BB to ISCG adaptor:
Let me google that for you


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

jimw said:


> You just can't win can you! You might be able to get away with a BB to ISCG adaptor:
> Let me google that for you


I have seen those and I am pretty sure they only work for a threaded BB. Mine is press fit.


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## jimw (Aug 10, 2004)

They make adapters for PF too.

Let me google that for you
and
Let me google that for you


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Called MRP and they make a direct mount that uses the old FD mount holes.


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## PiroChu (Apr 8, 2004)

jimw said:


> ...around here the 15 is my money gear. ... I have a cassette that is basically divided into climbing and descending ranges. 19 and up for climbing, 15 and down for descending. Really no problems with the bigger gap between 15-19, and overall really digging this setup.
> 
> Hey man what's up? Been a while...


Been a while, indeed!  
Thanks so much for the reply/write-up, regarding "split" (practical) vs "even spread" (theoretical) around here. Not sure what size ring you have up front, but 15T (with 30T/front) would be my "money" gear as well. 
Cheers!


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## PiroChu (Apr 8, 2004)

*21-24 vs 22-25*



jimw said:


> the cassette I'm using (XT, also didn't on prior mid-range SRAM 10spd).


Hi, one more Q, please, since I belatedly caught that you've used both Shimano & SRAM cassettes with your 1x10 conversion. Would you mind elaborating (which you're so good at!  ) on why you switched from a SRAM cassette to a Shimano?

Was it for the spec'ed "climbing gear" cogs? If so, how would you comment on the "..-19-*21-24*-28-.." cogs (Shimano) vs "..-19-*22-25*-28-.." cogs (SRAM) for "around here"? Practical difference, or negligible?

Or, was it more to do with "not notching the alum freehub" aspect of XT cassette with "3/carrier + 3/carrier + 4/loose" cogs vs the "3/carrier + 7/loose" cogs of PG-1070/1050/1030?

I'm all set on the "descending gear" options (15T vs 16T), all thanks to your previous input, but I also wanted to find out more about the "climbing gear" options with the cassette choices.

Thanks again! (Hope to run into ya out there sometime!)


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## PiroChu (Apr 8, 2004)

*30T/104BCD NW chainring: OneUp vs Race Face ?*

Sorry to briefly digress from the cassette setup conversations here, but wanted to ask around about the NW chainring choices.

So, specifically for the 30T/104BCD ring, I'm trying to decide between the OneUp NW/30T ($53) vs Race Face NW/30T (found $39). Are there any significant differences in terms of performance or longevity or ease of installation (eg. shims/spacers, existing mounting hardware/bolt length, etc)?

*{OneUp}*
_- 30T rings have integrated shims and chainring bolt threads to allow the smallest ring size possible on a 104 BCD crank (loose shims are only included with the 32T-36T sizes)._

*{Race Face}*
_- 30T 104BCD NW single ring are threaded with a standard M8x0.75 chainring bolt thread, see hardware chart for appropriate bolt length required for your combination._​
If not, is it the case of "chainring is chainrings, just pick cheaper"? I see that they are both made of 7075-T6 aluminum and weigh about the same (40g vs 37g).

By the way, it's going to be mounted on the mid-ring position of my old Gravity Light crankset (22T/32T/bash).

Thanks for your input in advance,
- PiroChu


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

I have owned a RaceFace NW and a Wolftooth DropStop. The WT is hands down nicer!


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> I have owned a RaceFace NW and a Wolftooth DropStop. The WT is hands down nicer!


In what way(s)?


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

D Bone said:


> In what way(s)?


Tooth design seems superior to me. The way they have "notches" on the wider teeth really seem to fit the chain nice and tight.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Tooth design seems superior to me. The way they have "notches" on the wider teeth really seem to fit the chain nice and tight.


Interesting. I have a brand new WT 30T waiting to replace my RF 30T in a few days/weeks. I have gotten almost 1,500 miles out of my RF 30T without a single drop, but wanted to try the WT.......... It has some large shoes to fill!


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

In a year of riding at least once per week I'd say my RF 30t dropped the chain close to 15-20 times. When I got a new crank (direct mount) I went with the WT and haven't dropped a chain since, but I also installed a top guide so it's not a fair comparison. But the way the rings are built the WT seems like it should have better chin retention.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

PiroChu said:


> Sorry to briefly digress from the cassette setup conversations here, but wanted to ask around about the NW chainring choices.
> 
> So, specifically for the 30T/104BCD ring, I'm trying to decide between the OneUp NW/30T ($53) vs Race Face NW/30T (found $39). Are there any significant differences in terms of performance or longevity or ease of installation (eg. shims/spacers, existing mounting hardware/bolt length, etc)?
> 
> ...


The ring are pretty much the same as far as material used and mounting. You still have to make sure you have the right bolts, spacers are built into the rings for 30t and so on. I use a RF 30t (only one that came in blue at the time I bought it) and 0 issues on my hardtail. Even the rough stuff without the clutch in my rd engaged, never a dropped chain.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Added to the first post SunRace CSMX3 10sp cassette. Looks like the best option so far. If I was in the market today that's what I would start with. But I am already on 11sp.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

CrozCountry said:


> Added to the first post SunRace CSMX3 10sp cassette. Looks like the best option so far. If I was in the market today that's what I would start with. But I am already on 11sp.


Just for complete accuracy, the largest cog (40T or 42T depending on cassette) is 7075 aluminum, while all the other 9 cogs are steel.

SunRace does make a cheaper, all steel cog 11-40T and 11-42T and their weights are listed as 414g & 448g, but those cassettes are not yet available.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> In a year of riding at least once per week I'd say my RF 30t dropped the chain close to 15-20 times. When I got a new crank (direct mount) I went with the WT and haven't dropped a chain since, but I also installed a top guide so it's not a fair comparison. But the way the rings are built the WT seems like it should have better chin retention.


Agreed. Wolftooth fits the chain far tighter. AB, Blackspire and Garbaruk are also tighter than RaceFace.


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## ImaSweater (Feb 1, 2010)

Late to the game here. Picked up a Megatrail and need to get a 42 on the cassette. Have a SLX 11-36 10 spd with the big 3 pinned together and the next 5 pinned together. Only cog I can lose is the 13t. Any issue in doing that so I can go grab a 42 ring to replace?


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Doesn't the 11 fit into the 13? If so you may not be able to do that. And the 11 - 15 jump is going to be huge.

You should be able to take out the 15 or 17 but you have to cut the pins. I've not done it on an SLX cassette but I've done it on plenty of similar pinned cassettes. OneUp has instructions on their page. I don't cut them the way OneUp shows (through the spacer) but instead I just grind the mushroomed backside with a Dremel and push them out. You could drill the heads, alternatively. It's really not hard.

A really good way to go, if you can, is to drop the 17 and 19, and add an 18. I did that on a SRAM cassette and it's by far my favorite conversion yet. Much smoother than dropping the 15&17 and adding a 16T.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

D Bone said:


> Just for complete accuracy, the largest cog (40T or 42T depending on cassette) is 7075 aluminum, while all the other 9 cogs are steel.
> 
> SunRace does make a cheaper, all steel cog 11-40T and 11-42T and their weights are listed as 414g & 448g, but those cassettes are not yet available.


Thank you very much, updated the post with those corrections.


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## PiroChu (Apr 8, 2004)

*12T lockring questions (omitting 11T)*

Having caught up to the page #58 of this huge thread so far (phew!), I have some nit-pick Q's on the "11T removal + 12T lockring" topic (w/ assumption that the smallest gear is now 13T, using XT 11-36 and 42T)...

Q#1: First, the basics. Is my understanding of this correct or incorrect?
* 11T lockring (stock lockring) ==> works on 11T or 12T
* 12T lockring (Token, Sun Race, etc) ==> works on 12T or 13T
* 13T lockring (only Miche & AB?) ==> works on 13T or 14T

Q#2: What's the verdict on the alum vs steel lockring for securing the 13T cog?
--> I've read some saying steel is better/securer, while others saying softer alum is actually better for digging in more securely?

Q#3: Do I also need to replace the stock 13T cog with the 13T "first-position" specific cog, along with a new lockring?
--> I seem to recall somebody here saying something about "first-position" cog...

Q#4: If picking up a Token lockring, do I also need to buy a paper-thin lockring spacer (which usually comes with Shimano lockring)?
--> I also recall somebody here basically saying "all you need is a Token ring only", but I also recall somebody here listed this item on his spec.

Q#5: Is there a Shimano-made lockring (alum or steel?) to specifically secure XT's 13T cog, if any? (URL, pls?)

Q#6: Is it OK if the lockring says it's "for 8/9spd", even though it's for 10spd XT cassette (CS-M771-10) that'd be mounted on XT hub (FH-M756-L) hub?

Sorry this has become a loaded-question post (maybe all I need is really just a 12T Token lockring?), but appreciate your feedback/confirmation in advance. Thanks!
- PiroChu


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## PiroChu (Apr 8, 2004)

*my 1X10 conversion report*

I'm happy to report here that my 1x10 conversion from 3x9 was successful, thanks to all the info posted in this mega thread.

{bike}
* 2011 Transition Blideside (7"-travel)
* previously: 37lbs 14oz
* after 1x10: 36lbs 12oz








{new parts ($324)}
* chainring: Race Face Narrow/Wide 30T (36g) 
* cog: OneUp 42T (72g + 2g/spacer)
* cassette: Shimano XT CS-M771-10 11-36 (338g)
* derailluer: SRAM X9 Type 2 medium cage (243g)
* shifter: SRAM X9
* chain: SRAM PC-1051














{installation notes}
* chainring: I mounted it on the middle-ring position of my Gravity Light crankset (22T/32T/bash), with (used) 8.5mm bolts & without shims. The chainline looks to be over 21T cog (slightly towards 19T). My crankset is installed with one spacer on drive side & none on non-drive (no change).
* cog/cassete: I removed 17T+spacer (19g+1g), and I'm keeping my "money" cog 15T, not using 16T (19g).
* derailluer: I eyeball-adjusted High/Low/B without chain first, then double-checked with chain on (with only a minor adjustment to slightly limit Low). Plenty left on B.
* shifter: Maybe one click on barrel while riding was it. A new cable (came with it) through the same/used housing.
* chain: The instructed "big-big plus 4 links" initially seemed good, but I actually needed one more plate (or 2 pins), upon full shock compression (closely missed it only by 1~2mm/short, although I also know that I won't bottom out while in 42T, but just in case...). I ended up with "big-big-plus 6 links" (that's only 2 pins short of 114 out-of-box links). So my chain length might be slightly on a longer side (see pix; what do you guys think?), but I've also read a Pinkbike article saying...
"_Oneup Components says you'll need two links more, but we added three because the extra length puts the lower derailleur pulley farther back when you are in the big sprocket. This eases the angle that the lower run of chain must take from the pulley to the chainring, which reduces noise and improves shifting._"​(I think he meant three "plates", not "links/pins", when counting chain.)
* hanger: Even though I was pretty sure my not-so-old hanger was still straight, I didn't want to take any chances in having a variable in the mix, so I just put on a fresh hanger.



























{riding notes (1st test ride)}
* I can backpedal in 42T forever, without dropping.
* Everything shifts fine (for me). Then again, perhaps I'm easy to please on that (always had XT/X9, never experienced XTR/X0). 30T/42T feels familiar on climbing, and 30T/11T is more than plenty ("for me/here"). Relieved!
* Amazingly quiet now while riding/descending (thanks to Type 2)
* No more handlebar clatter! (shifter on Matchmaker & LEV on ODI)
* With 15T (my "money" cog), I actually like the jump between 19T & 15T, as my legs can clearly feel whether I'm going into the descending claster (11T/13T/15T) or the climbing claster (19T-42T).
* While in 13T, the chain dropped once thru this fast/bumpy/drop section during my 1st test ride today. It didn't drop thru all the equally-fast/bumpy/drop sections earlier, though. I might've unconsciously backpedaled a bit to re-position my feet right then & there, and - with a 7"-travel bike (& my chain being on a longer side) - it's not a surprise. I can call it an user error this time, and will try again thru the same section on Saturday and see. Regardless, I've been planning on OneUp Chainguide (currently out of stock), so that's OK until then.














{upcoming item}
* OneUp Chainguide (as soon as it's in stock in USA)

With all the mixed results posted here to make me nervous, I wanted to stick to just the 'basics' on my first try, eliminating all variables (eg. 16T, hanger, 11T, etc.). I think that paid off. Now that I have a good baseline, I could start tinkering with cassette config (eg. 11T vs 17T) and such. But I really like it as-is after all, so probably not (no rush).

Overall, I'm VERY satisfied. Thank you all who posted here. (I've read all 88 pages.)

Cheers,
- PiroChu


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## jimw (Aug 10, 2004)

PiroChu! Sorry, I see I missed some questions from you earlier. I'll get back to you on those in a moment (not that it will help you now, but might be useful to someone in the future). But in the meantime - nice job! Glad to see everything worked out.

Some comments:

- You seriously read all 88 pages??? WTF is wrong with you? Do you know how many rides that adds up to?? 

- Knowing the type of stuff you ride, you will definitely want a chainguide, even if it's just a top guide. Good to see that's on your list. In my case, I ditched the narrow-wide and went with a regular chainring, and a full Gamut P30S DH chainguide. There is zero chance of that chain coming off, and it has bash protection. I hate taco-style bash guards, seen too many cases of hits to a taco causing frame damage (breaking ISCG tabs). In your case with that small of a chainring you probably don't have to worry about bashing it too much.

- You and I might be the only people on this entire thread who actually prefer the jump between 15 and 19, as opposed to swapping a 16t for the 15... but I still like it! It's only a "problem" on road ride approaches to the trails, where you can't get your perfect roadie cadence on, but I'll take that tradeoff.

- Not sure what type of dropper post you have, but with the freed up space from where the front shifter was, you might be able to run a more ergonomic dropper lever. I'm running the Specialized SRL lever with a Command Post Blacklite, super nice to have the lever right there where the shifter used to be.

- Good call going for the 'basics' first and not making more changes than necessary, it does help when troubleshooting. In my case, the first thing I did involved zero changes. I wasn't sure if my legs were ready to go 1x. I knew I didn't want to lose any top end, so the question was if the 42 would give me a low enough low end. I used a gear calculator and figured out that with my same front ring (36) and the 42, it was equivalent to my then granny (24 I think?) and the 3rd largest cog. So I started restricting myself to that gear on all the steepest climbs around here, and once I found that I could do that, I knew the conversion would be fine. Then I added just the OneUp cog, but that screwed up the shifting (Shimano der). So then I added the Rad Cage, and it was good again. Did all that using the old existing front rings; once the back was dialed, I dealt with the front. Tried the narrow wide but didn't actually like it. It was noisier than a regular ring (like if you get any grit/sand on your chain, the tighter tooth profile accentuates that) and it was moderately harder to clean the ring because of more nooks and crannies for grime to collect. Anecdotally I had heard some folks say their chain was wearing faster after switching to NW. I also wasn't sold on no chainguide, or just a top guide. In the end, swapped that out for a regular chainring and the P30, and have been happy with that... but I know I'm pretty atypical in that regard. But I'm happy that I can also beat the crap out of the bike at N* and not worry about bashing or dropping a chain.

- Your chain line looks great. Personally I think the chain itself looks a tad long. In the highest gear (smallest cog) it looks like you'd get some chain slap from the chain on the bottom hitting the chain above it in that tightly squished up derailleur. It's true there's no way you're gonna bottom out your 7" suspension when you're in the 42, so I'd try it with that extra link removed. Here's what mine looks like (note that with the chainguide the lower chain angle is probably even steeper than yours, even accounting for a 30t vs. 36t ring, and it's still not as squished up as yours in the smallest cog). Then again, I see pictures in the mags all the time of new bikes with setups that look just like yours, so YMMV.


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## jimw (Aug 10, 2004)

OK, getting back to some of your earlier questions:



PiroChu said:


> Been a while, indeed!
> Thanks so much for the reply/write-up, regarding "split" (practical) vs "even spread" (theoretical) around here. Not sure what size ring you have up front, but 15T (with 30T/front) would be my "money" gear as well.


I'm on a 36t up front (this is with a 26" bike). 36/15 is my money gear for DH around here. I kinda like having the sort of split range, 11-15 for DH, 19-42 for climbing. If I were starting from scratch right now though, I'd take a good hard look at those SunRace wide range 10-speed cassettes. The Praxis looks interesting but they missed the boat w/o providing a 42t option IMO.



PiroChu said:


> Hi, one more Q, please, since I belatedly caught that you've used both Shimano & SRAM cassettes with your 1x10 conversion. Would you mind elaborating (which you're so good at!  ) on why you switched from a SRAM cassette to a Shimano?


Honestly, it was simply because I'd been slowly moving everything from SRAM to Shimano, simply because for me I find Shimano just works better. The bike originally came with all SRAM for drivetrain and brakes. Brakes were the first to go, XT was loads better and now Saint FTW. I had some probs with SRAM derailleurs. One ride, the cage actually came apart and I lost a jockey wheel, and had to walk out. Replaced that with an X0 type 2, and that was wearing out upper jockey wheels very quickly. So finally I switched to XTR w/clutch, which worked perfectly. Then I switched to Shimano shifters, because I really wanted multi-release (this is the feature where you can push and drop two smaller cogs in a single motion). This is IMO especially useful on 1x drivetrains. Say you've got a quick uphill that you need a really low gear on, followed by immediate steep downhill. With 2x, this is a situation where you might have just dropped the front to the granny for the climb, then shifted back up for the DH w/o ever touching the rear der. OTOH with 1x, with both Shimano and SRAM you can do a massive lever push and downshift up 3 cogs, maybe even 4, for the climb. Then for the DH you want to drop 4 cogs again... with SRAM that's 4 separate pushes, with Shimano that's 2. It adds up over a long ride. Anyway, the last time I needed to replace the cassette, I figured I'd just go with Shimano since pretty much everything else was Shimano at this point.

The only thing left that's SRAM now are the cranks, which are actually great.



> Was it for the spec'ed "climbing gear" cogs? If so, how would you comment on the "..-19-*21-24*-28-.." cogs (Shimano) vs "..-19-*22-25*-28-.." cogs (SRAM) for "around here"? Practical difference, or negligible?


Honestly I didn't even know there was a difference until now!  I think that the single digit differences on those 2 cogs are negligible. I certainly didn't notice.



> Or, was it more to do with "not notching the alum freehub" aspect of XT cassette with "3/carrier + 3/carrier + 4/loose" cogs vs the "3/carrier + 7/loose" cogs of PG-1070/1050/1030?


I didn't realize this either at the time! It does logically seem like a good reason to go with XT though. I just pulled my cassette (which is easier with XT vs the previous SRAM), and there were notches on the lame DT aluminum freehub body in the middle 3 cog positions where those are now on a carrier with XT... but the biggest notch was where the 15 is (my money gear), which is a free cog on the XT too. So again not a huge difference.



> Thanks again! (Hope to run into ya out there sometime!)


Yeah man, one of these days we'll have to meet up for a ride and compare notes!


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

jimw said:


> Then I switched to Shimano shifters, because I really wanted multi-release (this is the feature where you can push and drop two smaller cogs in a single motion). This is IMO especially useful on 1x drivetrains. Say you've got a quick uphill that you need a really low gear on, followed by immediate steep downhill. With 2x, this is a situation where you might have just dropped the front to the granny for the climb, then shifted back up for the DH w/o ever touching the rear der. OTOH with 1x, with both Shimano and SRAM you can do a massive lever push and downshift up 3 cogs, maybe even 4, for the climb. Then for the DH you want to drop 4 cogs again... with SRAM that's 4 separate pushes, with Shimano that's 2.


I love the multi release. It's what I miss most on my drivetrain after switching from XT 10sp to Sram 11sp. Also shifting is not as great, but still OK.


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## KevinShoes (Apr 30, 2012)

I'm curious, has anyone ever converted a 2x XTR to a 1x? How'd you guys do it? The thing I like about the current set up is the all XTR crankset just looks really nice with how the cranks mate to the rings. Is there any way to preserve that look going to a 1x without spending 500+ on a complete 1x system?

It seems like with after market rings from wolfTooth and OneUp, you don't get to keep those bolt covers which make it look so nice in my opinion.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

KevinShoes said:


> I'm curious, has anyone ever converted a 2x XTR to a 1x? How'd you guys do it? The thing I like about the current set up is the all XTR crankset just looks really nice with how the cranks mate to the rings. Is there any way to preserve that look going to a 1x without spending 500+ on a complete 1x system?
> 
> It seems like with after market rings from wolfTooth and OneUp, you don't get to keep those bolt covers which make it look so nice in my opinion.


I've done it, but on an older XTR 985 Set. I just used the bigger ring position for the rings and used the original chainring bolts and caps. There are some pics in my build thread here:

http://forums.mtbr.com/pivot-cycles/my-mach-5-7-carbonium-goodness-782740.html

Dunno if that still goes with the M9000 setup.

Good luck!


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

KevinShoes said:


> I'm curious, has anyone ever converted a 2x XTR to a 1x? How'd you guys do it? The thing I like about the current set up is the all XTR crankset just looks really nice with how the cranks mate to the rings. Is there any way to preserve that look going to a 1x without spending 500+ on a complete 1x system?
> 
> It seems like with after market rings from wolfTooth and OneUp, you don't get to keep those bolt covers which make it look so nice in my opinion.[/QUOTE
> 
> I have it done to my xtr cranks..you need to make sure to mount the ring from the back and you will need longer than stock ring bolts...


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## KevinShoes (Apr 30, 2012)

Good to know. The 2x is nice to have that bail out option but I'm barely using a lot of my gears and it'd be nice to drop the weight and clear up some of the wires on my bars.


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## PiroChu (Apr 8, 2004)

Tip from OneUp...


> I would not recommend shortening your chain too much. When in the biggest sprocket, you want your derailleur to be at around the 5 o-clock mark. If its closer to 6 o-clock then you could take a link out. You don't want your derailleur to be anywhere near horizontal though.


I guess I'll leave the chain length as-is (112 pins) for now, but I'm still going to pick up OneUp Chainguide (when in stock) regardless.

Cheers,
- PiroChu


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## syphen (Aug 22, 2015)

Just curious what people think of the chain length here. WT 40t, Goatlink, Shimano XT Shadow+ RD.

It seems to shift great, but I'm new to working on and playing with bikes really, so yeah.. I don't want to bottom out and tear things apart.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

^^ Did you size the chain with the rear shock deflated?


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## syphen (Aug 22, 2015)

RS VR6 said:


> ^^ Did you size the chain with the rear shock deflated?


No, but I really likely should've. I'm looking at the pics now and thinking it may need a little more length. I'll deflate it tonight and check.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

I run my chain slightly short. i.e. in the 42t, it prevents bottom out but a few mm on the shock. in 2th gear though, I get full travel.

My reasoning behind this was that I doubt I'll ever use full travel when in granny gear, as I'll be climbing up steep firetrails when doing so. Gives that little bit of extra chain tension and therefore security when in the higher ranges.


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

Check out the SunRace MS3/MX3 11-40, 11-42 10 speed cassettes. 
My friend held back on the OU/WT hack as he saw that I was never 100% happy with the compromised shifting quality in higher gears (XT Shadow+ medium cage) and the odd jumps even with the 16T. 
Not too long ago SunRace introduced their wide range 10speed cassettes and I just installed on his bike (XO mech) and it is just perfect I didn't notice any if difference in the shifting quality compare to the 11-36 cassette. I tried on my bike too with XT and same thing.
So basically for the price of an extender cog you can buy a complete cassette (the 2x3 lower gears are on alloy carriers just like an XT cassette) without the compromises of the extender cog hack/mod.


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## Back2MTB (Jun 4, 2014)

950sm07 said:


> Check out the SunRace MS3/MX3 11-40, 11-42 10 speed cassettes.
> My friend held back on the OU/WT hack as he saw that I was never 100% happy with the compromised shifting quality in higher gears (XT Shadow+ medium cage) and the odd jumps even with the 16T.
> Not too long ago SunRace introduced their wide range 10speed cassettes and I just installed on his bike (XO mech) and it is just perfect I didn't notice any if difference in the shifting quality compare to the 11-36 cassette. I tried on my bike too with XT and same thing.
> So basically for the price of an extender cog you can buy a complete cassette (the 2x3 lower gears are on alloy carriers just like an XT cassette) without the compromises of the extender cog hack/mod.


I just got the wt 40/16 on eBay new for $80. Installed it on my Xt setup with shadow rear derailleur and I do agree with you that the 16 upshift is a little finicky but overall on the trail it's less noticeable and I am pretty happy with it.

I was considering the Sun race cassette as well but a couple of things steer me away. They don't seem to be widely available and the online price I could find ranged anywhere from $80-110 before shipping. Given they have no track record I was concerned about durability as well. Lastly, you can buy Xt replacement cassettes cheap moving forward, the last one I bought cost me $50 and the WT big cog should last as long as a couple of those inexpensive cassettes.


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

Back2MTB said:


> I just got the wt 40/16 on eBay new for $80. Installed it on my Xt setup with shadow rear derailleur and I do agree with you that the 16 upshift is a little finicky but overall on the trail it's less noticeable and I am pretty happy with it.
> 
> I was considering the Sun race cassette as well but a couple of things steer me away. They don't seem to be widely available and the online price I could find ranged anywhere from $80-110 before shipping. Given they have no track record I was concerned about durability as well. Lastly, you can buy Xt replacement cassettes cheap moving forward, the last one I bought cost me $50 and the WT big cog should last as long as a couple of those inexpensive cassettes.


Currently out of stock but it's $69 Bikeman SunRace CSMX3 10sp cassette, 11-42t - Champagne

They have some sort of track record as some of the Specialized models are equipped with SunRace cassette.
I had OU40T+16T and never been happy with it. One thing was the odd jumps in the most often used gears and the other was the crap shifting in the high gears which wasn't the case when I tried the sunrace 11-42 on my bike. But of course there are options, whatever works...


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## Back2MTB (Jun 4, 2014)

950sm07 said:


> Currently out of stock but it's $69 Bikeman SunRace CSMX3 10sp cassette, 11-42t - Champagne
> 
> They have some sort of track record as some of the Specialized models are equipped with SunRace cassette.
> I had OU40T+16T and never been happy with it. One thing was the odd jumps in the most often used gears and the other was the crap shifting in the high gears which wasn't the case when I tried the sunrace 11-42 on my bike. But of course there are options, whatever works...


I'm using a kmc chain with the wt stuff, what did you run that you were unhappy with?


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## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

Back2MTB said:


> I'm using a kmc chain with the wt stuff, what did you run that you were unhappy with?


I used KMC new/used and Connex with XT Shadow+ medium cage and all was the same. I tried UO 16T, Shimano 16T with different indexing options but I couldn't accept the less than perfect shifting and the 2-3-3-2 jumps in the high gears. So I put the 11-36 back with a 30T chainring and it's good, but now I'm thinking on the SunRace cassette as it works perfectly and I could use a 34T chainring with it for more "top speed".


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## GreatLakesWaterman (Oct 29, 2013)

Has anyone found the 40t or 42t cogs to cut into the freehub body? I'm a bigger guy. 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


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## PiroChu (Apr 8, 2004)

OneUp chainguide is back in stock (in USA). 
I just ordered one now. Can't wait!


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

PiroChu said:


> OneUp chainguide is back in stock. I just ordered one now. Can't wait!


These guys are little more, but earned my business over OneUp. Offer the individual parts, also make 03 guides and lots of variation.
77designz.com


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Yup, guides are back in stock in all our warehouses. You can expect more standards and individual service parts to roll out over the next few months. 

Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

OneUp said:


> Yup, guides are back in stock in all our warehouses. You can expect more standards and individual service parts to roll out over the next few months.
> 
> Cheers,
> Jon @ OneUp


Still no plans for 03 guides?


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

TwoTone said:


> Still no plans for 03 guides?


Unfortunately still no plans for 03 guides.


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## PiroChu (Apr 8, 2004)

*OneUp Chainguide*

I received/installed the OneUp Chainguide yesterday, and went out for a test ride today - another success! No more chain dropping - what a relief! I've been dropping my chain on every ride since my 1x10 conversion 3 weeks ago (while waiting for their chainguide to be back in stock), so I had been riding a bit more mindfully thru rough sections (especially when descending in 11T/13T/15T). No more such worries now - just blast thru worry-free, and no chain dropping (even in 11T). Awesome! :thumbsup:









{installation notes}
* The whole unit is so light (35g) & so tiny - very inconspicuous. 
* Although it's not mentioned anywhere, when using the included "spacer shim block" to measure, I assumed that I should be in the biggest cog in the back (ie. 42T in my case) AND measuring the "wide" section of the Narrow/Wide chain, essentially to measure the most inboard situation.
* Also, just one thing to call out... Unlike in the installation video on their website, the included "spacer shim block" didn't have any numbers stamped. So, when I initially measured, I was counting it as "1", "2", "3"..., only to realize later that it's marked as "0", "1", "2"... in their video. That meant that I had one too many shims for the given spot. As such, when I first I added 3 black shims (thinking "1", "2", "3" vs "0", "1", "2"), it was no wonder that I got slight rubbing when in 42T (while still quiet in 36T thru 11T). So, recounting as shown in the video (ie. "0", "1", "2"...), I actually ended up with 2 black shims only - and now it's all quite from 42T to 11T.









Now I can ride worry-free again - awesome! :thumbsup:

Cheers,
- PiroChu


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

OneUp Components is 2 Years Young

It's been a hell of a second year. Thanks for all your support. Here's a discount code for 20% off everything in our store:

*OneUp20%Off*

SHOP NOW at OneUp Components - The mountain bike drivetrain specialists
We're expecting popular products to sell out fast. Tell your friends and spread the love.

Two years ago we risked everything and quit our jobs at Race Face to start OneUp Components. Without your support we wouldn't still be doing what we love - designing, producing and riding mountain bike products.

TWO YEARS OF ONEUP COMPONENTS

We won Pinkbike Award for Best Value Product - for our Wide Range Drivetrain package (42T, RAD cage and NW rings)









Richie Rude won the 2015 Enduro World Series Championship using OneUp Narrow Wide Chainrings, and our rings powered more 2015 Enduro World Series victories than any other brand. Try our #EWSProven narrow wide rings for yourself.









We launched a complete range of oval chainrings which provide Ultimate Traction to your rear tire. Next time you need to replace your chainring, we recommend that you give oval a try. We won't go back to round!









We released the ultimate ISCG-05 Chainguide which weighs just 35g and costs only $45.


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## purdyboy (Nov 15, 2005)

OneUp said:


> SHOP NOW at OneUp Components - The mountain bike drivetrain specialists
> We're expecting popular products to sell out fast. Tell your friends and spread the love.
> 
> .....
> ...


I wanted to buy the whole kit (Rear 42T, RADr, 32T traction ring) but the 104 traction rings already sold out... Doh!


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## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

purdyboy said:


> I wanted to buy the whole kit (Rear 42T, RADr, 32T traction ring) but the 104 traction rings already sold out... Doh!


Hold Tight...

Stock should be visible by tomorrow.

Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


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## purdyboy (Nov 15, 2005)

OneUp said:


> Hold Tight...
> 
> Stock should be visible by tomorrow.
> 
> ...


Great, thanks for that info Jon.


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## mrfva (Aug 31, 2009)

Mr.Quint said:


> Put on the WT GC tonight.
> 
> Set up is a Tallboy LTc with XT cassette, SLX clutch RD, and 30t race face n/w chainring.
> 
> ...


Did you ever resolve your problem when pedaling backwards?
It's happening on my Niner EMD hard-tail.


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

mrfva said:


> Did you ever resolve your problem when pedaling backwards?
> It's happening on my Niner EMD hard-tail.


The chain angle in 42 is to big , moving the crank foward the derailleur do the job to keep it centered with the rear sprocket and don't fall. But moving the crank in reverse the angle make it fail If you don't want this to happen you need to move your crank a litle closed to the frame. If you see from the back of the bike rear axle to the crank the chain need to be straight with your chainring be in 5 not 6. Or at least offset to 5. But usually I don't move the crack back. My2cent.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mrfva (Aug 31, 2009)

protsi said:


> The chain angle in 42 is to big , moving the crank foward the derailleur do the job to keep it centered with the rear sprocket and don't fall. But moving the crank in reverse the angle make it fail If you don't want this to happen you need to move your crank a litle closed to the frame. If you see from the back of the bike rear axle to the crank the chain need to be straight with your chainring be in 5 not 6. Or at least offset to 5. But usually I don't move the crack back. My2cent.


Good point, I considered the chainline and I think that might be the culprit. I took her for a ride yesterday - technical, rocky terrain. The rear der was quietly engaging and I was able to pedal backwards 1 round then she drops to the next smaller ring.

My frame bb is 73mm with no spacers so I can't really adjust the crank. However, I need to double-check my front ring (Wolf Tooth 32t) and ensure I have the right version (flat vs offset).


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Does anyone know if a 10-42 xtr is planned? Just like the current xt.


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## mrfva (Aug 31, 2009)

jazzanova said:


> Does anyone know if a 10-42 xtr is planned? Just like the current xt.


The current Shimano XT is 11-42, XTR is 11-40. SRAM offers 10-42. Slight difference.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

mrfva said:


> The current Shimano XT is 11-42, XTR is 11-40. SRAM offers 10-42. Slight difference.


Thanks, yes, I ment 11-42 xtr. Any plans for it?


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## jimw (Aug 10, 2004)

mrfva said:


> protsi said:
> 
> 
> > The chain angle in 42 is to big , moving the crank foward the derailleur do the job to keep it centered with the rear sprocket and don't fall. But moving the crank in reverse the angle make it fail If you don't want this to happen you need to move your crank a litle closed to the frame. If you see from the back of the bike rear axle to the crank the chain need to be straight with your chainring be in 5 not 6. Or at least offset to 5. But usually I don't move the crack back. My2cent.
> ...


Depending on your cranks/chainring, you might be able to add spacers to offset the chainring itself and not have to mess with your BB/crank.

Also note that some extender cogs seem to be more sensitive to chainline with respect to the backpedaling issue. This came up over in the thread on the SunRace cassettes. Some folks there, including me, had issues with the chain dropping while backpedalling on the SunRace 42, but not with an XT/OneUp setup with everything else being the same. Jon from OneUp chimed in and mentioned that the backpedalling issue was an important design constraint for them, FWIW.


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## mrfva (Aug 31, 2009)

jimw said:


> Depending on your cranks/chainring, you might be able to add spacers to offset the chainring itself and not have to mess with your BB/crank.
> 
> Also note that some extender cogs seem to be more sensitive to chainline with respect to the backpedaling issue. This came up over in the thread on the SunRace cassettes. Some folks there, including me, had issues with the chain dropping while backpedalling on the SunRace 42, but not with an XT/OneUp setup with everything else being the same. Jon from OneUp chimed in and mentioned that the backpedalling issue was an important design constraint for them, FWIW.


I'm currently running a Wolf Tooth 32t GXP n/w direct-mount ring with SRAM XO crankset, plus a Shimano XT cassette with a Wolf Tooth 42t in the rear. I double-checked my front-ring and I have the correct (GXP, 6mm offset) version. This is on a Niner EMD bike; never had this issue with my 2010 Specialized Epic F/S.

I took her for a ride this weekend and no-drop chain, but I have to keep reminding myself to not backpedal on the 42t. I may try OneUp or toss this set-up and go Shimano 1x11 XT.


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## dfiler (Feb 3, 2004)

Just put a 42t sunrace on my fatbike. Used every link of a new chain and still had to persuade the derailer an extra few mm.

B screw is maxed out and it still rubs a tiny bit when on the 36t. It's the inner plate of the derailer arm that can rub on the 42t.

That's a short cage x9 and a 30t front ring.

Hmmm. This is going to take some more tweaking. It shifts but likes to hang when shifting up from 36 to 42. It works but I'd probably destroy the derailer shifting under load.

Suggestions? I'm thinking of adding a goat link and adding an extra link. Hopefully I can bum new links from a friend rather than using some of my old chain.


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## mrfva (Aug 31, 2009)

You need at least a medium cage.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

^ yeah that. i run a 40t with a zee and goat link and wouldn't think of going to a 42.


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## dfiler (Feb 3, 2004)

I've seen reports both of it working and not working. In my case there appears to be adequate range provided by the cage. There is no suspension chain growth to account for so running it to the limit is fine. However it's the cage itself that is contacting the cassette. I don't think a longer cage version would change that. Or would it?

That's why I'm thinking a goat link would help. Just move the derailer away from the cassette, add a couple links and it should be good. 

If needing a new derailer I might sell the drivetrain and go 1x11 instead. At $70 for a sunrace cassette, this was worth a shot.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

yes i see afetr looking at picks again that a goat should help. if not, it's only $20. post up pics with the goat when you get a chance.


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## P75 (Mar 21, 2016)

Hi, 

Does anybody know if the 2015 Shimano XT M786 GS mech (the one with clutch system) works correctly on a Sunrace XM3 11-42t 10s cassette?

Thanks and congrats for the nice forum


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## Back2MTB (Jun 4, 2014)

P75 said:


> Hi,
> 
> Does anybody know if the 2015 Shimano XT M786 GS mech (the one with clutch system) works correctly on a Sunrace XM3 11-42t 10s cassette?
> 
> Thanks and congrats for the nice forum


You'll likely need a goat link or some kind of extension using the 1osp derailleur. I ran an 11-40 with that derailleur and it was always a little finicky. Installed the new 11sp derailleur and it's perfect. YMMV.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

OneUp just released a FIFTY tooth 11sp setup. The top 3 are 36-42-50. :eekster:

Benefit? You can now run a 36 up front and be roughly in the ball park of a 30/42 but see huge gains on the other end of the cassette when you downshift and are running 36/11 instead of 30/11.


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

I think you meant *upshift* to 36/11, as that's the top gear. 

Pet peeve aside, I wonder how much it weighs? Its hard to decipher, but I think all the big cogs are aluminum until the 18T, when it switched over to steel. I'd be worried about cassette life with that much aluminum in the midrange. Running a larger gear up front only makes it worse. I guess you never know until you actually ride it, but for me, I like the idea of 9 or 10t on an xd freehub considerably more than this.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

In my mind the chain drops down the cassette. But I think we are on the same page regardless of terminology used.

They also released a 10T developed by them/HOPE that fits on a standard freehub.


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

I understand your thinking, but the upshift/downshift terminology has been in standard use in automobile, bicycle and other motorsports since the dawn of time. Going against it only leads to confusion for all involved. I really don't mean to pick on you specifically, and nothing personal, just trying to get everyone on the same page.

And they didnt develop a 10t that fits on a standard freehub. They developed a new "freehub standard". A simple swapping of these two words completely changes things.



> OneUp has collaborated with Hope Technology to develop a non-proprietary, freehub body standard that accepts a 10T sprocket. This shortened version of a standard freehub is available for Hope, Stan's and DT hubs with more coming soon. The MiniDriver open standard isn't shrouded in patents, making the production of inexpensive 10T equipped cassettes a future possibility.


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## endurofit (Aug 3, 2005)

*OneUp switch complete*









I spent $30 on a case of my buddy's favorite beer, so it was a no-brainer for me to try it. Added the Rad cage, turned the B limit around since it was too short(I'll probably get one from WT or a local hardware store), and haven't had an issue with shifting. I used a new SRAM chain, kept it whole and added the quick link. Had to set the limit screw and that was it. Took about 2 hrs.


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## Biggus Duckus (Apr 5, 2016)

I bought a Goatlink and a Tanpan for my 10s Tiagra drivetrain and Sunrace 11-42 cassette. At first I replaced the Tiagra rear derailleur with the M8000 11-speed, but it turns out the 11-speeds have a different pull ratio. Next I tried it with a Shimano SLX M670. It's not a Shadow derailleur but it seems to work ok. The best shifting I can get is one double shift in the middle of the cassette (little chainring only) and on the big chainring I can't shift into the 11T cog. Not a huge deal because I hardly ever use it anyway, even during cross season.

Anyone know if I would have better luck with the M786 Shadow der? Wolftooth says their products are for Shadow derailleurs but I don't really know the technical differences.

A picture:


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Biggus Duckus said:


> I bought a Goatlink and a Tanpan for my 10s Tiagra drivetrain and Sunrace 11-42 cassette. At first I replaced the Tiagra rear derailleur with the M8000 11-speed, but it turns out the 11-speeds have a different pull ratio. Next I tried it with a Shimano SLX M670. It's not a Shadow derailleur but it seems to work ok. The best shifting I can get is one double shift in the middle of the cassette (little chainring only) and on the big chainring I can't shift into the 11T cog. Not a huge deal because I hardly ever use it anyway, even during cross season.
> 
> Anyone know if I would have better luck with the M786 Shadow der? Wolftooth says their products are for Shadow derailleurs but I don't really know the technical differences.


So we've got a lot going on here- and it's not a surprise that things aren't shifting. Unfortunately, for things to work, you'll need to match three things:
* Your rear shifter (10s)
* The model of Tanpan (that's an SH10: 10s)
* The cassette (11s)

We don't have a way to make a 10s shifter work with 11s cassettes, so you'd have to source a 10s cassette _or_ an 11s shifter and Tanpan SH11.

The GoatLink 10 isn't needed with 11s derailleurs, so you can either skip it with the M8000 XT or keep it with the M670 SLX- either combination will work once the other items are lined up. Hope that helps,

Marc


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Am I missing a cog here cause his cassette is 10s from what I've counted like 6 times now.

That slx RD IS a shadow RD. The difference your thinking is shadow vs shadow +.

As for the shifting issues, contact WT, I can bet they can get it sorted for you no problem.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

tigris99 said:


> Am I missing a cog here cause his cassette is 10s from what I've counted like 6 times now.


That's what I count too. Was working off of a previous post from the author saying that he'd ordered an 11s instead of a 10s.


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## Biggus Duckus (Apr 5, 2016)

I finagled with it some more thanks to Marc's advice about the clocking and the B-screw. Everything shifted very well up and down, on both the big ring and the small ring. In the future I might convert it to a 1x10 to make it a little less complex, but I'm a happy camper now too.

Thanks for the help Marc and others!


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Biggus Duckus said:


> I finagled with it some more thanks to Marc's advice about the clocking and the B-screw. Everything shifted very well up and down, on both the big ring and the small ring. In the future I might convert it to a 1x10 to make it a little less complex, but I'm a happy camper now too.
> 
> Thanks for the help Marc and others!


Awesome! Glad it worked out,

Marc


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Hey guys, I want to go 1X on my Trek Fuel EX 9.8 (Shimano XT 2X10 is on now) but am on the fence between going full 1x11 with all new components (probably Sram GX to keep it budget friendly) or getting the oneup 42t and going 1x10. My bike is a year old so the cassette and chain are probably due for some attention anyway so would it make sense to put the money into the 1x10 or just swap it to 1x11 at this point?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

crfnick56 said:


> Hey guys, I want to go 1X on my Trek Fuel EX 9.8 (Shimano XT 2X10 is on now) but am on the fence between going full 1x11 with all new components (probably Sram GX to keep it budget friendly) or getting the oneup 42t and going 1x10. My bike is a year old so the cassette and chain are probably due for some attention anyway so would it make sense to put the money into the 1x10 or just swap it to 1x11 at this point?


Is the GX less than $190? That's what I just paid for my XT 1x11 for my HT at Chain reaction.


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

Marc- The goat is literally the mascot of Lindarets now that it's lasered onto most of your products. 

So when can we look forward to some laser cut goat heads? ... Stickers!


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

pdxmark said:


> Marc- The goat is literally the mascot of Lindarets now that it's lasered onto most of your products.
> 
> So when can we look forward to some laser cut goat heads? ... Stickers!


We ran out this week, but resuming next week all orders from Lindarets.com ship with a nice 3x4 goat decal in Lindarets Blue! If you grab one of our Direct Mount Blanking Plates or "Rocks Belong" tees, you'll get two goats for the price of one!

Marc


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## phattruth (Apr 22, 2012)

crfnick56 said:


> Hey guys, I want to go 1X on my Trek Fuel EX 9.8 (Shimano XT 2X10 is on now) but am on the fence between going full 1x11 with all new components (probably Sram GX to keep it budget friendly) or getting the oneup 42t and going 1x10. My bike is a year old so the cassette and chain are probably due for some attention anyway so would it make sense to put the money into the 1x10 or just swap it to 1x11 at this point?


If you wait just a little longer the new Shimano SLX 1x11 will be out.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

This might sound like a dumb newbie question but if I would go to 1x11 wouldn't I need a 11speed derailleur and shifter? That's where it adds up quick if I go that route.


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

crfnick56 said:


> This might sound like a dumb newbie question but if I would go to 1x11 wouldn't I need a 11speed derailleur and shifter? That's where it adds up quick if I go that route.


Any route that you take 9,10,11,or 12 the answer is yes you need all the components .


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## jimw (Aug 10, 2004)

But note that you can use an 11-speed rear derailleur, but with a 10-speed cassette and shifter (the shifter controls the indexing)! So if you're already running a regular 10-speed setup, it can be more economical to get an extender cog for your existing 10-speed cassette, and an 11-speed XT/SLX rear derailleur (if you're running Shimano). In the Shimano case, this is a good move because the 11-speed derailleur has an offset upper pulley wheel which can handle the larger range of an extended cassette, whereas 10-speed Shimano derailleurs really need a Rad Cage or Goat link or similar to maintain factory shifting quality with an extended cassette. Anyway, then you already have the 11-speed derailleur, so if you decide to go full 1x11 in the future that's one less thing you have to buy.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

protsi said:


> Any route that you take 9,10,11,or 12 the answer is yes you need all the components .


The (cable to lateral movement) pull ratios of 10s Shimano, 11s Shimano, and (to a lesser extent) 11s SRAM mountain rear derailleurs are so close as to be functionally interchangeable. As long as the number of cogs and number of clicks match the rear derailleurs can be swapped and will work reasonably well.

As Jimw notes, you will want to run a derailleur designed (or modified) to work with your intended cassette.


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

Marc Lindarets said:


> The (cable to lateral movement) pull ratios of 10s Shimano, 11s Shimano, and (to a lesser extent) 11s SRAM mountain rear derailleurs are so close as to be functionally interchangeable. As long as the number of cogs and number of clicks match the rear derailleurs can be swapped and will work reasonably well.
> 
> As Jimw notes, you will want to run a derailleur designed (or modified) to work with your intended cassette.


I believe when you buy high end component you want a reliable performance not a reasonably performance.... My2cents. For those looking for a high first gear to go uphill I believe shimano has the alternative without the need to change hub,


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

jimw said:


> But note that you can use an 11-speed rear derailleur, but with a 10-speed cassette and shifter (the shifter controls the indexing)! So if you're already running a regular 10-speed setup, it can be more economical to get an extender cog for your existing 10-speed cassette, and an 11-speed XT/SLX rear derailleur (if you're running Shimano). In the Shimano case, this is a good move because the 11-speed derailleur has an offset upper pulley wheel which can handle the larger range of an extended cassette, whereas 10-speed Shimano derailleurs really need a Rad Cage or Goat link or similar to maintain factory shifting quality with an extended cassette. Anyway, then you already have the 11-speed derailleur, so if you decide to go full 1x11 in the future that's one less thing you have to buy.


I already have Shimano XT but in the 2x10 setup so would that rear derailleur work if I just got, say a 42t extender cog? The shimano info says it has a range from 11t to 42t but I don't see where it says specifically if it is a 10 or 11 speed derailleur. It is the stock setup on my 2015 Fuel EX9.8 for reference.


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## protsi (Dec 21, 2010)

For the best of my knowledge ,,,, It's supposed to work just adjust the derailleur tension bolt. You need to sacrifice one of your cassette sprocket to accommodate the large one. 42. Usually you loose in the middle or low end. Just read this post to find what other people did. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

If your on a 10 speed bike the the derailleur is for 36t 10s. 

No matter what option you choose below, you'll have get do 1 of 3 things:
Goatlink, RADr cage, or xt 11 speed rear derailleur. Yes xt 11s RD works with 10s shifter and cassette.

You have 2 options, use these expansion cogs and risk shifting issues. As said requires modifying current cassette.

Or just buy a sunrace 10s 11-42 cassette. No casstte mods, direct fit, shifts perfectly. Costs same/less than doing expanded mod.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

crfnick56 said:


> I already have Shimano XT but in the 2x10 setup so would that rear derailleur work if I just got, say a 42t extender cog? The shimano info says it has a range from 11t to 42t but I don't see where it says specifically if it is a 10 or 11 speed derailleur. It is the stock setup on my 2015 Fuel EX9.8 for reference.


Since shimano XT 11sp cassette is only $65 and derailleur $60, you might as well just get the shifter and have a legit 11sp setup that works well with no issues. XT 11sp made those 10 speed hacks obsolete, especially if you price all the components of the conversion (cassette extender, RAD cage, etc)

XT M8000:
Cassette $65
Shifter $40
Derailleur $60
Total $165

One up conversion:
Cog $80
RADr cage $55
Total $135

Is it worth having shifting issues, big cog gaps, all the other issues on this thread for $30 savings on a $5000 carbon bike?

Not including chains in the pricing since you will need a new chain in either setup, and chain is a wear item anyways.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

CrozCountry said:


> Since shimano XT 11sp cassette is only $65 and derailleur $60, you might as well just get the shifter and have a legit 11sp setup that works well with no issues. XT 11sp made those 10 speed hacks obsolete, especially if you price all the components of the conversion (cassette extender, RAD cage, etc)
> 
> XT M8000:
> Cassette $65
> ...


Plus either route I will need a new single chainring for up front so really that cancels out either way. The more I am thinking, it seems like the smarter route would be the 11spd since my whole drivetrain is a year old now so I'm sure its worn, or getting close anyway.

Dumb question, but does the new shifter come with a cable? Also, would my cranks be fine to use with the 11speed setup?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Never had a shifter not come with cable. Don't always come with cable housing but always have a cable.

Crankset never matters for what gears you have in the rear, just need correct chainring(s)

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

crfnick56 said:


> Dumb question, but does the new shifter come with a cable? Also, would my cranks be fine to use with the 11speed setup?


They usually do, but if not your local bike shop has them for $1-2 dollars. Get a spare, never hurts.


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## Christouf (Nov 5, 2012)

I tried the 10s 11-42 alloy SunRace cassette with RD-M786 (XT 10s shadow+) and longer screw : it shifts terribly bad.

But when derailleur is replaced by XT RD-M8000 : it is perfect !

RD-M8000 accepts 42t cogs "natively", RD-M786 does not.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

That makes sense due to the upper jockey wheel placement of the m8000.


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## ric614 (Nov 15, 2016)

Christouf said:


> I tried the 10s 11-42 alloy SunRace cassette with RD-M786 (XT 10s shadow+) and longer screw : it shifts terribly bad.
> 
> But when derailleur is replaced by XT RD-M8000 : it is perfect !
> 
> RD-M8000 accepts 42t cogs "natively", RD-M786 does not.


I've been told from a bike shop Tech about the shifting issue with 10s 11-42 alloy SunRace cassette, and he advised me to use Wolf Tooth 42t Cog in comparison with WT is a bit more expensive upgrade than SunRace the good thing with SunRace though is it comes as a fullset cassette vs WT is one Cog + 16 tooth Cog as an option to replace existing 15/17 cog for much easier and smoother shifting.


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## ZHaunDK (Oct 9, 2014)

ric614 said:


> I've been told from a bike shop Tech about the shifting issue with 10s 11-42 alloy SunRace cassette, and he advised me to use Wolf Tooth 42t Cog in comparison with WT is a bit more expensive upgrade than SunRace the good thing with SunRace though is it comes as a fullset cassette vs WT is one Cog + 16 tooth Cog as an option to replace existing 15/17 cog for much easier and smoother shifting.


i have run both oneup and sunrace setups. i personally like the sunrace better. the 16 mod causes a rather large gaps lower on the cassette where i sit mainly on fire roads and makes finding a good gear on something like a 4% hill harder. The sunrace shifts just as good, however they wont backpedal when they are new. i've accidently shifted down the cassette when trying to clear pedals over obsticles on a new cassette. the sunrace spares the cassette body a bit more as well.

the best is the price. here, a one up with xt cassette costs 950kr, a sunrace costs around 450-500kr, 11sp xt 11-42 costs around 1200kr. now that sunrace is around, i'll stick with them personally until going 11sp. The one-up and their contenders were awsome and i've used 3 of those setups, but now their not the only game in town and def not the cheapest.

earlier i ran a xt 10sp with rad cage, now running x9. the xt with rad did shift better mainly due to shimanos clutch being far better than srams. After adding tension to the clutch on the SRAM, it works acceptable.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

ric614 said:


> I've been told from a bike shop Tech about the shifting issue with 10s 11-42 alloy SunRace cassette, and he advised me to use Wolf Tooth 42t Cog in comparison with WT is a bit more expensive upgrade than SunRace the good thing with SunRace though is it comes as a fullset cassette vs WT is one Cog + 16 tooth Cog as an option to replace existing 15/17 cog for much easier and smoother shifting.


I don't know what shifting issue with the 10s 11-42 alloy SunRace cassette your LBS tech was talking about. I never had a problem with my setup, I have a 10s Zee shifter, a 11s M8000 rear mech, a GX cranks, a NW chainring from Superstar and a 11-42 SunRace cassette and it shifts flawlessly, going up or down even under load, I don't even have the non-problem backpedaling people keep *****ing about .
If with my mismatch setup I don't have a single problem why would you have shifting problems if not from a bad installation or not properly adjusted gears.
Given both options, I would always prefer a complete cassette than a hacked one.

I also have another setup, but its a 11s 11-46 SunRace cassette, again not a single problem shifting.

The only thing you need to keep in mind is the chainline. To prevent premature wear of your drivetrain, smooth shifting, and no backpedaling for those who care about it, you need to properly set your chainline.

Also, you need a rear mech able to clear the big cogs, I opted to buy new rear mechs instead of hacking the ones I had.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

Im running a xt 10 speed, rad cage, sunrace alum 42 10-42 cassette, and AB oval 30t

Skips on the 42, it pulls it one way or the other on the 42 and it will walk the chain up then drop. Just a little click once in a while riding. I filed the non angled teeth hoping it would stop, maybe its not enough, maybe its not set right but.... My derailleur looks maxed out. Like its curved outwards like is super stressed. I dont have the b screw maxed. Im thinking of getting a wolf tooth goat link too and hoping this unstresses out my RD.


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

OK solarplexus here are some pointers 
1. If using 42 tooth you need to add the wolf tooth 10 speed ( not 11 speed) goat link. You can dispense with the goat link IF you only run a 40 and not a 42. Others can argue with me all they want but this is the reality. 
2. Your front chain ring must be exactly in line with the mid point of your cassette. Your crank set / bottom bracket probably has spacers that came with it to get this correct. If you went from some kind of 3 or 2by to your one by this could be major off. 
3. The number of links in your chain must be correct. Don't bother with that until you secure the goat link. 
4 I'm running ten speed but as a 2x with a 34/24 xtr I grabbed at Jenson's. But I have just bought new 11 speed XT to eventually throw on for $250 so when u add it all up all this 10 speed stuff at THIS POINT of time is pointless. First I'm going to wear out the 10 speed cassette. I'm getting chain skip on 34/13 when standing super steep climbs. I'm pretty sure the Shimano 11 speed is evolutionary to the 10 speed stuff and expect the chain skip to go away.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

Ended up grinding the flat teeth tapered so all match on the 42, maxed my b screw out. All is good now. Have to ride it to see but usually butter on the stand works on the trail. If it skips on the 11 and 13 under hard pedalling ill throw the goatlink on.


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

Solarplexus, my chain skip on the second cog (13) is not a function of the goat link or 42 tooth. I think they put half the teeth in one plane and the other half in a second to assist the ramps in shifts.


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## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

solarplex said:


> Im running a xt 10 speed, rad cage, sunrace alum 42 10-42 cassette, and AB oval 30t
> 
> Skips on the 42, it pulls it one way or the other on the 42 and it will walk the chain up then drop. Just a little click once in a while riding. I filed the non angled teeth hoping it would stop, maybe its not enough, maybe its not set right but.... My derailleur looks maxed out. Like its curved outwards like is super stressed. I dont have the b screw maxed. Im thinking of getting a wolf tooth goat link too and hoping this unstresses out my RD.


Got enough chain length?


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## xprmntl (Oct 4, 2006)

I and others have found that the Sunrace cogs don't mesh will with the Shimano chains as they are directional and engineered to work with Shimano cogs. An SRAM chain fixed all skipping and backpedaling issues I was having. A KMC might work, as well.


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## pastajet (May 26, 2006)

xprmntl said:


> I and others have found that the Sunrace cogs don't mesh will with the Shimano chains as they are directional and engineered to work with Shimano cogs. An SRAM chain fixed all skipping and backpedaling issues I was having. A KMC might work, as well.


I haven't used Shimano chains for a long time, been using various SRAM chains on bot my 10 and 11-speed system without any issues. Though I have not done any testing with SunRace cassettes.


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## xprmntl (Oct 4, 2006)

pastajet said:


> I haven't used Shimano chains for a long time, been using various SRAM chains on bot my 10 and 11
> 
> Hmmm, I hate to call you out, Pastajet, but your comment isn't very helpful in this instance. If you care to elaborate on what exactly you've found that works and what doesn't, then you'd be adding something, here.


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## pastajet (May 26, 2006)

xprmntl said:


> pastajet said:
> 
> 
> > I haven't used Shimano chains for a long time, been using various SRAM chains on bot my 10 and 11
> ...


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## xprmntl (Oct 4, 2006)

Gram, Your original quote didn't give any specifics, which is what didn't make it useful--to me or anyone else. The information you added is a bit more helpful. '

In my experience, for 10 spd set-ups, I have found that Shimano chains work fine with with SRAM cassettes and SRAM chains work fine on Shimano cassettes. The only problem that I have had in 10 spd is running a Shimano chain on the Sunrace, mostly in backpedaling at extreme ends of chain line angle (esp 42T).

KMC Missing Link (10 spd) works with Shimano chains, and others have said that the SRAM Powerlinks also work fine with Shimano.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

Well i can skip the chain pushing it on the plowed walking paths in 11t so im putting a goatlink on addition to the rad cage.


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## thecanoe (Jan 30, 2007)

I have not had a problem with the 11-42 Sunrace cassette and Shimano chain on my Pivot Les Fat. Maybe because I'm using an AB oval 28t mounted in the granny position. That biased the chai line to the inside. No problem backpedal line all gears. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

Xprmntl thank you for the clear statement re your observation of scram chain superiority. I honestly didn't expect a non Shimano product to run better on their equipment. What level scram would be equivalent to to XT grade chain?


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

cyclopath1000 said:


> Xprmntl thank you for the clear statement re your observation of scram chain superiority. I honestly didn't expect a non Shimano product to run better on their equipment. What level scram would be equivalent to to XT grade chain?


Pc-x1


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

Isn't that an 11 speed chain. R u using that with this 10 speed setup?


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

I'd also suggest PC-X1 chain. Its the most cost effective. The PC-1110 is a good budget option, but its not nickel coated, and the chain rusts very easily. The PC-1130 works, but is apparently intended for road. Then above the X1, the hollow pin weight savings dont justify the price increase. Even though the inner links of the X1 do not appear to be coated, I find they dont rust nearly as easily as the pc-1110 does. The PC-X1 is a good solid all around performer for $23.


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

I asked are peeps using an 11 speed chain with a 10 speed setup?


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Sorry, I'm subscribed to too many of these threads, and just assumed we were talking 11 speed.

You can use an 11 speed chain in a pinch, but shifting will suffer. 

In your case, I'd buy a SRAM pc-1051. Its solid pin, but both inner and outer plates are nickel plated. Runs about 20 bucks. Hollow pins aren't worth the extra cash, IMO.


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## xprmntl (Oct 4, 2006)

Okay, specifically, the PC1051 chain is what I am running. Again, I'm not saying that this SRAM 10 spd chain works better on Shimano cassettes--it works fine, as does Shimano (HG95)--but the PC1051 works better than the HG95 on Sunrace (11-40/42T) cassettes, especially during cross-chain backpedaling.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

My setup is:
front Shimano FC-M677 with 22-36
cassette Shimano XT CS-M771 11-36
derraileur Shimano XTR RM-M986 Shadow+ SGS long

I'd like to try extended range cog. There are next candidates:
1) e*thirteen Extended Range (EX) Cog Ritzel for Shimano 10-sp
42T
50€

2) Hope 40T-REx Ritzel Shimano
40T
57€

3) Trickstuff Versägeblatt Ritzel
41T
63€

4) OneUp Components 42+16 Tooth Sprocket Cluster
42T (+16T)
66€

Which one is the most interesting?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Take your pick. They'll all pretty much work the same. The 16T can be hit or miss with some people.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Well, people say some of them like cheese, some are not perfectly compatible with RD (some issues about shifting), and so on..
So, which one is strongest, notroubles,... ? And anyway, will my RD work with extended cog?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Your derailleur will need some help from the third party like OneUp or Wolf Tooth. Stock Shimano 10 speed rear derailleurs are not happy above the 36T.


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## xprmntl (Oct 4, 2006)

All of those are alloy--they damage easily and wear quickly.

I think the most durable and reasonably-weighted option out there, and comparably priced, is the Fouriers CNC 40T or 42T rear sprocket. A two piece design with teeth made from Cr-Mo heat-treated steel and spider body from AL6066. It comes as a kit with 16T replacement cog and a longer B-screw. Part number CR-DX008-SK2 or -SK3 (no holes in the steel). These are available on Ebay Fouriers CR-DX008 Oversized Cassette Cog Cog Fourier Cr-dx008 Cass Shi 42t Rd


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## xprmntl (Oct 4, 2006)

Some are happy enough with the extended B-screw and their RD derailleur, but the best is to go with a One-Up Rad cage or a new M7000 or M8000 11 speed derailleur with your current 10 speed shifter.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

ka81ua said:


> My setup is:
> front Shimano FC-M677 with 22-36
> cassette Shimano XT CS-M771 11-36
> derraileur Shimano XTR RM-M986 Shadow+ SGS long
> ...


You're actually better off just getting an entire Sunrace 11-40/42 cassette. It costs roughly the same price as one of the extender cogs you listed. Best part is...you get a complete cassette without having to add and remove cogs.


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## ZHaunDK (Oct 9, 2014)

this thread has become epic


will just give a recommendation for the sunrace option. After 3x oneup modded cassettes i went with sunrace. this is due to price of the sunrace being 1/2 price and smoother ratios. As an added bonus this cassette has a large alu spider which means the 42t one up doesnt ruin the cassette body over time.


it might wear quicker than the xt cassette, but at the price it's worth going with sunrace.


Takes about a couple weeks before the cassette is wore in to avoid backpedal shift, otherwise shifting is just fine.


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## xprmntl (Oct 4, 2006)

ZHaunDK said:


> As an added bonus this cassette has a large alu spider which means the 42t one up doesnt ruin the cassette body over time.


I can't figure out what you're trying to convey, here? The Sunrace option already has a 42T. How does the One-Up 42T (with an XT 11-36T?) "ruin the cassette body over time?"



ZHaunDK said:


> it might wear quicker than the xt cassette, but at the price it's worth going with sunrace.


Do you have any evidence to support that the Sunrace cogs wear quicker than XT?



ZHaunDK said:


> Takes about a couple weeks before the cassette is wore in to avoid backpedal shift, otherwise shifting is just fine.


As discussed earlier, the back-pedal break-in can be avoided by going with an SRAM chain when changing the cassette, since chain should be changed out anyway.


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## Mk-a (Mar 9, 2017)

Christouf said:


> I tried the 10s 11-42 alloy SunRace cassette with RD-M786 (XT 10s shadow+) and longer screw : it shifts terribly bad.
> 
> But when derailleur is replaced by XT RD-M8000 : it is perfect !
> 
> RD-M8000 accepts 42t cogs "natively", RD-M786 does not.


SGS or GS cage?


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## cyclopath1000 (Feb 22, 2009)

The earlier gen rear derailleurs before m 8000 need the goat link. The 8000 was designed for a 42 rear on a 2 by and 46 on a one by. This is why I have the wolftooth 42 on a Shimano 10 speed cassette , it's because I run a 2by . If I wanted a one by why bother with all this crap just go 12-46 Shimano then if you are really strong you can push 
A bigger front ring. Come on guys! Why are you so worrying about a 1x10 with the cost of the Wolfie with the 16 toothed needing a goat link to shift superbly when for a bit more u r styling new 11 speed11-46 that's done better than their 10 speed.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

cyclopath1000 said:


> The earlier gen rear derailleurs before m 8000 need the goat link. The 8000 was designed for a 42 rear on a 2 by and 46 on a one by. This is why I have the wolftooth 42 on a Shimano 10 speed cassette , it's because I run a 2by . If I wanted a one by why bother with all this crap just go 12-46 Shimano then if you are really strong you can push
> A bigger front ring. Come on guys! Why are you so worrying about a 1x10 with the cost of the Wolfie with the 16 toothed needing a goat link to shift superbly when for a bit more u r styling new 11 speed11-46 that's done better than their 10 speed.


Totally agree. See my post above for cost breakdown:

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...eup-vs-wolf-tooth-897313-46.html#post12595527

Shimano made those extended cassette hacks obsolete. I don't know why someone would bother with them to save $30, ending with an old and hacked drivetrain, compared to brand spanking new drivetrain with all new components.


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## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Mk-a said:


> SGS or GS cage?


GS cage is good for an 11-46 cassette so it works just fine on a 10 speed 11-42t, see it here in action:


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## Mk-a (Mar 9, 2017)

mevnet said:


> GS cage is good for an 11-46 cassette so it works just fine on a 10 speed 11-42t, see it here in action:


Excellent,
I'm using a XTR M985 and this is horrible the gear shifts.


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## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Mk-a said:


> Excellent,
> I'm using a XTR M985 and this is horrible the gear shifts.


Problem with that RD is that the top jockey is not offset enough to keep a somewhat equal distance from the cassette when chain is through the cassette range. So you give it more B screw to clear the 42t then it shifts horribly on the smaller cogs. New chain helps for a bit but the solution is the new 11 speed mechs, GS cage, SLX/XT/XTR. They clear 11-46 no problem and work as they were supposed to. Assume the new Deore that will have a 10 speed 11-42t cassette will have the offset guide pulley.


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## Mk-a (Mar 9, 2017)

mevnet said:


> Problem with that RD is that the top jockey is not offset enough to keep a somewhat equal distance from the cassette when chain is through the cassette range. So you give it more B screw to clear the 42t then it shifts horribly on the smaller cogs. New chain helps for a bit but the solution is the new 11 speed mechs, GS cage, SLX/XT/XTR. They clear 11-46 no problem and work as they were supposed to. Assume the new Deore that will have a 10 speed 11-42t cassette will have the offset guide pulley.


First I have to thank for the tip.
I put the XT M8000 GS 11v and it was perfect.
It is working perfectly, all gear changes including shifting 10v XT.
XT M8000 GS + 11-42T (10V) + 10V Shifter = Perfect


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## abrooks (Feb 1, 2015)

I've been running a 1X 11/42 10 speed setup for well over two years with no problems at all. 
My setup is SLX M675 rear mech + one up rad cage, 10 speed zee shifter, a SLX 11/36 cassette, a HG95 chain and AB 32t oval chain ring. 
The expander cog is from absolute black, I also use a 16 tooth XT cog in place of 15&17 tooth cogs. The 16t cog requires a slight modification to align the shifting ramps. 
I spent some time setting it up to ensure correct chain alignment, I get no chain drop issues on back peddle when in the 42t cog.

I am about to take the plunge into 11 speed, but I am not going the easy route. I've just bought a sunrace 11/46 cassette, an 11 speed SLX shifter and a sram PC-1130 chain. Going to use my current SLX rear mech.

I'm hoping that it will all play nicely with each other.

I'll feed back when done.


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## Back2MTB (Jun 4, 2014)

abrooks said:


> I've been running a 1X 11/42 10 speed setup for well over two years with no problems at all.
> My setup is SLX M675 rear mech + one up rad cage, 10 speed zee shifter, a SLX 11/36 cassette, a HG95 chain and AB 32t oval chain ring.
> The expander cog is from absolute black, I also use a 16 tooth XT cog in place of 15&17 tooth cogs. The 16t cog requires a slight modification to align the shifting ramps.
> I spent some time setting it up to ensure correct chain alignment, I get no chain drop issues on back peddle when in the 42t cog.
> ...


SLX 675 10spd shifter isn't going to work with an 11spd shifter and cogset I'm fairly certain.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Apart from your mech, I have the M7000, you will be riding the same setup has I have.
And I don't have a problem with my setup. If backpedal drop is an issue for you, it's possible that you may have to tinker with your chainline to resolve it.


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## Mk-a (Mar 9, 2017)

Aglo said:


> Apart from your mech, I have the M7000, you will be riding the same setup has I have.
> And I don't have a problem with my setup. If backpedal drop is an issue for you, it's possible that you may have to tinker with your chainline to resolve it.


I have that issue with 42T cog, when backpedaling the chain drops


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## abrooks (Feb 1, 2015)

If as reported people are using the 11 speed mech with a 10 speed shifter. Using the same logic a 10 speed mech it should work ok with an 11 speed shifter. 
I'll give it a go anyway, if I have to splash out for a new mech it's not big problem.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Back2MTB said:


> SLX 675 10spd shifter isn't going to work with an 11spd shifter and cogset I'm fairly certain.


If I understand correctly, he's planning to use his existing SLX 10 spd 'derailleur' with the new shifter, not old shifter. Issue may be if der plays nice with the 46t cog on the new cassette.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

The 10 speed SLX doesn't like the 42T without third party help. I don't see it working with a 46T...at all.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

RS VR6 said:


> The 10 speed SLX doesn't like the 42T without third party help. I don't see it working with a 46T...at all.


So i.e. bite the bullet for the added $70 M8000/M7000 11 spd derailleur.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

You can get a M7000 rear derailleur for just under 55 bucks from Comp Cyclist.

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/shimano-slx-rd-m7000-rear-derailleur


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## abrooks (Feb 1, 2015)

I have the OneUp Rad cage which is supposed to replicate guide cog offset that you now see with the 11spd shimano rear derailleurs.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

abrooks said:


> I have the OneUp Rad cage which is supposed to replicate guide cog offset that you now see with the 11spd shimano rear derailleurs.


The RAD cage is supposed to work up to the 42T. Post back on how it works...or not work.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Dredging up a stale thread.

I'm looking to add a 1x10 drivetrain to my bike (has been SS it's whole life) for a big mile/high elevation event. I want to do it cheaply as possible. 

Has anyone used a SRAM GX 10sp RD and Shifter with the WT 42?
Or is X9 with a clutch better? 
It's my understanding that I don't need a RADr cage with SRAM.
I've been given a 10sp cassette with a 42 cog, and I have a leftover goat link from when I had an XT 1x10 with WT 42 on a previous bike. 
I just need the shifty bits and want to do it cheap, since running gears is literally a once or twice a year thing. 

I 'get' Shimano. SRAM is totally foreign to me.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Sram gx needs nothing extra. Shimano m6000 and m7000 series needed nothing as well. Just put it together and go ride.

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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Good reminder about the M7000 with a 10sp shifter. I figured that would work.

Definitely a strong contender. being slightly pedantic about it, I'm still leaning toward SRAM GX, partially because it's a bit cheaper, but also because I just happen to have a SRAM shiftMix clamp for my Magura MT6 brakes and a GX shifter would allow me to install the drivetrain without removing the brakes, and more importantly, destroying the plastic barend plug (thats a discussion for another thread)

Although, m7000 would usher in the ability to piece-meal a 1x11 setup. RD now, and maybe the shifter/cassette in the future if it ends up getting used more than just a couple rides a year.

decisions....decisions...


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## mrfva (Aug 31, 2009)

ARandomBiker said:


> Has anyone used a SRAM GX 10sp RD and Shifter with the WT 42?
> Or is X9 with a clutch better?
> It's my understanding that I don't need a RADr cage with SRAM.


Yes, I have used both GX and X9 (clutched) on my previous bikes. Both work equally well, and both rear derailleurs are clutched.

Correct - you don't need a RADr cage with SRAM.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

ARandomBiker said:


> Dredging up a stale thread.
> 
> I'm looking to add a 1x10 drivetrain to my bike (has been SS it's whole life) for a big mile/high elevation event. I want to do it cheaply as possible.
> 
> ...


From what I gather...the 10sp GX is pretty much the same level as the 10sp X7 derailleur. I'm using a 10sp X0 with a 42T on my HT. Works pretty well.

The 11sp Shimano derailleur will work with a Shimano 10sp shifter....can't do that with SRAM 10 and 11.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Having issue with oneup 16t sprocket.
Sometimes it shifts very bad from 16t to original 19t.
Yes, it's installed as per official unstruction. Maybe if it's installed any way different - that'll make shifting better?
Or maybe other manufacturer's 16t sprocket?


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