# 7 speed to 10 speed question



## zoldyck (Apr 1, 2012)

im planning to upgrade from 7 speed to 10 speed, i am aware that i also need to buy new derailleur and chain but not sure if i need to get a new wheel also. my wheel right now is from my specialized hardrock disk "26. pls help!


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## Rad Rider 415 (Nov 20, 2010)

If it's a shimano hub, you most likely can use the same wheel. Just buy a 10 speed cassette.


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## Rod (Oct 17, 2007)

You need to tell us the make and model of your rear hub so we can answer your question. :thumbsup:


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

do you have a freewheel or a cassette? does your cassette have a spacer behind it? you will also need new shifters.


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## zoldyck (Apr 1, 2012)

thanks for the replies guys! this is all the info i got from specialized website;


RIMS	-Alex HR Disc 26", alloy double-wall, disc, pin joint, 24mm, 32h
FRONT HUB	-Disc hub, QR axle, sealed loose ball, 17mm contact, 32h
REAR HUB	-Sealed loose ball, 19mm contact, QR, 32h
SPOKES	-Stainless silver, 2.0mm (14g)


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## shenny88 (Sep 24, 2009)

I think all 7 speed systems coming on current model bikes are freewheels. Everything 8 speed and up is a cassette... You'll probably need a new rear wheel.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Even the cheapest Hardrock has a freehub. They made that change a couple of years ago.

OP, I don't know the answer to your question. Since you have the bike in hand, have a look at it and answer the questions in post #4.

Having ridden 6-speed, 8-speed, 9-speed and 10-speed bikes, I have to say that I don't think 9 to 10 is much of an upgrade. Actually, I was pretty content with 6 and the right chainrings, but that was on a road bike. What are you looking for from this change? I can't help wondering if one of the stock 7-speed cassettes would make you happy. I probably wouldn't even notice if someone snuck into my basement and swapped my 9-speed for a 7-speed 14-32...


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## zoldyck (Apr 1, 2012)

i am pretty sure its a freehub, not sure with the spacer though, i will check tomorrow. oh shoot!! yeah, i also need a new shifter, i just wish i dont need to buy wheelset (crossedfinger). i will update you tomorrow and put pictures. 

i need 10 speed for my uphill, it is pretty heavy when im climbing.


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## somanygoodbikes (Sep 9, 2011)

If your 7 speed stuff is worn out, it is probably worthwhile to replace it with new components, and finding new 7 speed stuff may be hard. I rebuilt a very old (1991) HardRock last year and wound up getting some new 8 speed stuff cheap. There were a lot more options and I was able to get a good granny gear ratio for some of the steep climbs around here. 

If you stay in the 7-8-9 speed range you might be able to mix and match your parts and some new ones and meet your needs.

You haven't really explained what (why really) you are trying to accomplish. That would help.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

adding 3 cogs to your rear wheel is not going to make climbing any easier. it just makes it more likely that you will be able to find the right gear on various kinds of terrain. if you have a 12-34t seven speed cassette, and a 12-34t 10 speed, that will be the only difference. your technique and strength will be the only difference. it might not be a worthwhile upgrade.

however, getting some lighter tires that accelerate more easily, or some wheels that are lighter and stronger, will be a good upgrade that you will notice.


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## OmaHaq (Jun 1, 2010)

1. You need to check your rear frame spacing. 7-speed is a margin width. Could be 130mm or 135mm. (Bicycle Frame/Hub Spacing)

2. Depending on the above, your rear hub may only be 130mm which means that will not take a larger cassette. If it is 130mm, odds are your gear cluster is a freewheel, not a cassette.

Seems like a lot of work to put into an old bike. I run 8speed on my commuter and I'd run less if I had the stuff handy. What is the problem you are trying to solve?


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

zoldyck said:


> i need 10 speed for my uphill, it is pretty heavy when im climbing.


Shimano and SRAM are still producing 7-speed cassettes. There's a stock Shimano HG50 with a 13-34 range. If your largest cog is 30 teeth or fewer, this cassette will drop right into your drivetrain and make a big difference. You might need to replace the chain, but that's cheap too. Going to a ten-speed cassette with a 36t cog won't make all that much difference beyond that, and it's so much more expensive, especially if you need a new rear wheel too.

Another thing that can make a big difference is the number of teeth on your chain rings. Most mountain bikes have a 22t smallest chainring, but sometimes rec.-level bikes have 26 or 28t chainrings. If that's you, a new crank will make a big difference. If you have to have a lighter one, you can do that at the same time.  I don't think I'd be able to tell...

Saving weight per se doesn't do all that much except make it easier to load your bike onto a roof rack. Saving drivetrain weight is a particularly ineffective upgrade.


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## zoldyck (Apr 1, 2012)

@somannygoodbikes, my 7 speed not really worn out, got the bike last feb.

@mac_turtle, hmm., i guess you have a point. my technique and strength is my problem maybe bec im still new to mtb and smoking for 13 yrs (quit already when started biking)

@omahaq, i have Jamis Parker II 09 frame and most components came from my specialized hardrock disc (still upgrading)

@Andrwswtch, i checked the website again and found out that my CASSETTE is Shimano 7-speed, 12-32t. Hmm., Thats really helpful, thanks!

it looks like a lot of work and $$$ to upgrade, can i rephrase my question or what are my other options to solve my issue?  my problem is really going uphill/climbing, it feels heavy when im pedaling uphill . so heres my setup right now;

CASSETTE -Shimano 7-speed, 12-32t
RIMS -Alex HR Disc 26", alloy double-wall, disc, pin joint, 24mm, 32h
REAR HUB -Sealed loose ball, 19mm contact, QR, 32h
CHAIN -KMC X-8, 8-speed, reusable Missing Link
CRANKSET - Shimano Deore

btw, heres some pictures (ignore the dirt);


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## zoldyck (Apr 1, 2012)

and this is the pic of the whole bike


Jamis Parker II 09 (Customized) IMG_3113 by yeow_Z, on Flickr


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

"Specifications are subject to change without notice."

I think you've got a 30t largest cog. It should be labeled somewhere on the cog. Or you can just count. Mark a tooth with a sharpie or something if you can't tell the difference between teeth better than me. 

A 34 cog will help. It probably won't get you up something you can't already climb unless you almost can, but it'll certainly help.

Make sure you read some of the technique posts about climbing too. If you're doing something to shoot yourself in the foot, it doesn't help.

It's hard to see because of the angle, but your saddle looks pretty low relative to your bars. If you're not getting good extension of each leg when you pedal, you could be developing more power. Either do that for the big climbs and then drop your saddle again or find a different compromise. On my bikes, I can just reach the furthest pedal with my heel, without rocking my hips, with a straight leg. So it's a little forward of 6 o'clock.


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## somanygoodbikes (Sep 9, 2011)

If you climb hills with the seat in that position he is right, you are making it hard on yourself and just raising the seat will help a lot. 

The trails around here are a mix of climbing and technical stuff so I'm frequently raising the seat to the optimal height for climbing, then lowering it for technical stuff. Maybe just a half inch up to two inches depending on how hairy stuff is and how much I need to move around. 

Sometimes I forget to raise the seat again when the next climb begins and you can really feel how much harder it is

Google around for how to set your seat height. It is not easy to tell right away if it is a little bit too low. For me though it is pretty easy to tell if it is too high -- you feel a tightness in the ligaments in the back of your knee -- and you should not ride long with that feeling because you can strain those ligaments pretty quick. 

If you get your seat to the right height and still are struggling, fewer teeth on the small chainring might help, and more teeth on the biggest sprocket might help. Plus skinnier/faster tires might help.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

it's hard to tell, but I don't think that wheel is going to accept a 10 speed cassette. if this is the case, it's probably not going to accept a 9 speed either.

this might be helpful Shimano Cassettes & Freehubs


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

I have a '11 Hardrock Disc with the same wheels and that wheel had a 7spd cassette...there was no spacer behind the cassette and I had to get one for the new wheels. the wheels and hubs that came with the hardrock are not that great so....

I can double check though if needed.


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## zoldyck (Apr 1, 2012)

@Andrw, largest cog is 32T. do you mind giving me a link for the climbing/uphill links?

@somany, thanks for that infos! i think i just need to learn the techniques.

@mack and zeph, yeah i guess im stuck in 7 speed

so for now, if i cant upgrade to 10 speed, i just need to learn the proper way of climbing and height of my saddle/seatpost?

im only 5'"4 ft, i cant raise up my seat post so i decided to lower my handlebar (put the spacer on the top of stem) so is this enough? if i go higher i couldnt reach my pedals anymore


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

I have 2 bikes, one with a 9spd and the Hardrock with a 7 speed and there really isn't any difference in climbing...that is really up to the engine (you) and technique applied 

I will also say that I've never desired more gears in back of my Hardrock......I kinda like the wider spacing (in shifting) on the 7spd better to be honest.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

You can still flip the stem if you like, but if the bike doesn't feel awkward, I think it wouldn't make much difference.

I used Google to search the site. Second hit...
http://forums.mtbr.com/xc-racing-training/climbing-technique-667227.html

and the search, if you want to go through more threads.
https://www.google.com/search?ix=aca&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=site:mtbr.com+climbing+technique

To my mind, climbs break out into a few groups:
Long ones
Short, steep, non-technical
Technical, pretty much any length

So if you tell us what you're having trouble with, you might get some more specific advice. Some of the techniques I use to help me on a long, simple climb don't really work on a short, loose, steeper climb, for example.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

my technique for climbing is this: spot a difficult hill you want to climb and attempt it. if you fail, drag your bike to the bottom of the hill and try again. repeat until you clean it or ride away in shame. I have had to attempt some hills two dozen times before clearing them. you learn technique as you go.

don't stand up and lean too far forward, you will loose traction on your rear wheel.


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## zoldyck (Apr 1, 2012)

tnx a lot for the replies guys! i guess i need to practice my uphill first before upgrading, thanks again for the links and techniques.


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