# Grease Types?



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Any specific grease that is recommended for crankset install, headset, fork, etc...

For the crankset and headset, was thinking of the park tool 1000 or the maxima stuff from WWC.

How about for seat tube?


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## Battery (May 7, 2016)

I like to use Park Tool grease for all of my stuff.


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

Battery said:


> I like to use Park Tool grease for all of my stuff.


You are a bike snob dude! 

Walmart all purpose grease.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

Marine grease. The waterproof blue-green stuff. For anything that needs long lasting lubricity and may be exposed to the elements. I don't pay much attention to the quality, even when it comes to bearing packing.

Aluminum-based anti-seize, for things that don't need the lubrication as much as it needs the galvanic corrosion resistance from dissimilar metals contacting each other (bonus creak resistance, when dealing with poor tolerances/gaps). I avoid the copper and nickel based stuff--used to be drilled into my head at work that "copper slip" is toxic to touch with bare hands.
- the surface finish of seatposts can fret away from vibration, the oscillation/twisting from insertion, and slipping. The bare/unprotected metal can then seize to the inside of the seat tube.
- pedal threads (steel - alum)

Slickoleum (Slick Honey, SRAM butter, etc.) for sliding surfaces that need lubricity, and you're not so much worried about contamination.
- i put it on suspension seals, to ensure that they don't roll out of place (and get damaged) during reassembly

Blue loctite 242 (or equivalent threadlocker from permatex, etc)
- rotor bolts (had one unthread from my rear; rode a few miles with it making a knocking sound on the rear of my bike, but then it faded, then it came back... took a look and 1 bolt was gone, and another was ready to get ditched, kind of cocked out of its hole. The others weren't as tight as they could be...)

Suspension oils (e.g. Fox Gold 20wt, Redline Extralite Blue), freehub oil/grease (e.g. Dumonde grease for DT star ratchets), as needed...

For chains, OEM factory lube for the first 350-500 miles, then a soak in degreaser* and use paraffin wax-based lube.

* I just reuse old gasoline. Put the chain in a smuckers grape jelly glass jar, shake, fish the chain out, air it out, and then dip into melted paraffin wax, and hang dry. I reuse the gasoline by letting the grease sink/distill, and carefully pour the clean gasoline into another glass jar, then use a towel+dowel to clean out the shake jar.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Park Tool grease is fine for general purpose use like you're describing. There's no need to over think it and really no need to pinch pennies because one tube or tub could likely last you forever.


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## Shartist (Aug 15, 2018)

ninjichor said:


> Marine grease. The waterproof blue-green stuff. For anything that needs long lasting lubricity and may be exposed to the elements. I don't pay much attention to the quality, even when it comes to bearing packing.
> 
> Aluminum-based anti-seize, for things that don't need the lubrication as much as it needs the galvanic corrosion resistance from dissimilar metals contacting each other (bonus creak resistance, when dealing with poor tolerances/gaps). I avoid the copper and nickel based stuff--used to be drilled into my head at work that "copper slip" is toxic to touch with bare hands.
> - the surface finish of seatposts can fret away from vibration, the oscillation/twisting from insertion, and slipping. The bare/unprotected metal can then seize to the inside of the seat tube.
> ...


And that picture's just what he had in the bedroom, wait until he posts his bike lube cabinet...


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## Battery (May 7, 2016)

jcd46 said:


> You are a bike snob dude!
> 
> Walmart all purpose grease.


I should try that stuff!

Sent from my snail mail via Tapatalk.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

Phil Wood is my go to.

Probably not needed for just greasing threads, but it's in the tool box

And I like the story:

https://www.wheelfanatyk.com/blog/tale-bearing-grease/


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

J_Westy said:


> Phil Wood is my go to.
> 
> Probably not needed for just greasing threads, but it's in the tool box
> 
> ...


I do like Phil Wood's grease for keeping bearings waterproof. Packing around the headset bearings, and on my bb between the bearings and the outer cover, particularly.

I've got a tube of Park grease right now, but for anything other than greasing threads (or providing a thin film between bits like seat post/frame and crank spindle/bearings and such), I don't care for it. It's less tenacious than Phil's. The red marine grease I use to pack my camper's hubs is probably just as good or better (and cheaper). For general installation work, I'd say any thicker grease is fine.

I use Slick Honey for suspension service and that's about it.


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## Forest Rider (Oct 29, 2018)

Isn't it required to use Carbon Paste (or whatever a universal name is) for carbon frames?
I only see where people recommended which grease is good for the seat post.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

Forest Rider said:


> Isn't it required to use Carbon Paste (or whatever a universal name is) for carbon frames?
> I only see where people recommended which grease is good for the seat post.


Thought it was for carbon seat posts, because carbon tubes deform under clamping. An alloy post is more clampable, but if it's in a carbon frame, and its coating wears off (friction paste can accelerate that), it'll be at risk of galvanic corrosion (bare aluminum and bare carbon is a bad combo).

I'd fiber grip something to reduce the clamping force needed to keep it securely in place, allowing it to still be removed. My more preferred method is to just plug up the carbon tube with an internal insert to allow for clamping without fiber grip (like an expanding "star nut" for carbon steerer). Or just not buy such a product in the first place.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

My carbon frame manufacture recommended grease for the PF bb, nothing for the seatpost.


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## Forest Rider (Oct 29, 2018)

Humm. I wonder what came in my Stumpjumper that is noisy and gritty.

Specialized Command post in carbon frame, when adjusting the seat height I could hear the grit. Maybe the mechanic played a cruel joke and poured sand down the seat tube and the grease caught it all. LOL

I apologize for being vague when I said carbon frame. I should have specified seat tube. I didn't mean to mislead somebody into thinking carbon paste was required for bearings.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

Yea, I would clean that out well if I were you, even if people say it's "harmless" or that they haven't seen evidence of it causing harm. It's not their $2000+ setup that's at risk...

I'd just leave out the post to air out and gain an oxidation layer and then carefully/gently reinstall it clean, and not torque it too much.

I only say this because you were playing around with the post to hear the gritty sound, which may have caused damage. Installing with friction paste, and leaving it alone for good, is fine, and a better option than grease. The more you fiddle/adjust the post with the paste present, the more I'd worry about the paste being harmful. Well, perhaps it even if it does rub off the surface finish, it can maybe act as a protective barrier itself, so I'm sort of conflicted with this compound... just my own fear and lack of complete understanding talking here.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Forest Rider said:


> Humm. I wonder what came in my Stumpjumper that is noisy and gritty.
> 
> Specialized Command post in carbon frame, when adjusting the seat height I could hear the grit. Maybe the mechanic played a cruel joke and poured sand down the seat tube and the grease caught it all. LOL


It could be due to the particular type of carbon paste they used.

I have some TacX paste that was recommended to me, but I hate it. The grit particles are pretty big and angular and they are noisy AF. Sure, the stuff clamps well and parts stay put. But it _creates_ creaks as the big particles allow tiny gaps that permit a little movement.

I prefer the stuff with much, much finer grit particles nowadays. Have been working on using stuff that is in single use packages lately that's come with various parts, I think it's FSA branded. I don't have much that calls for carbon paste, anyway, so I haven't needed to buy another tube. My Thomson dropper post calls for carbon paste (and NOT grease), but using the tacx paste there on an alu/alu interface is just horrible. Against recommendations, I use grease.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

Some droppers call for friction paste because overtightening clamps around them causes them them to deform, and not operate as intended. Common symptom is that it adds stiction--the outer tube goes from a round profile to slightly pair shaped, along with the bushing between it and the inner slider/stanchion. This perhaps results in not allowing the post to freely extend fully under its own power, perhaps slowly, or perhaps get stuck down. The paste allows you to get away with less clamping force. Other droppers just recommend certain clamps that spread clamping force more evenly/uniformly around the post (e.g. BikeYoke Squeezy, Vecnum tooloc clamp, KCNC SC13 Twin).

If I were shopping for seatposts, I'd see clamping sensitivity as a turn-off. I'd probably choose one deigned for and tested with 300 lb gorillas in mind. If it proved to be too heavy of a burden and rode poorly, I'd then consider paying the princess tax for something more dainty.


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## HerrKaLeu (Aug 18, 2017)

Lube thread!

I'm simple and cheap:
- all locations requiring grease (threads to be assembled, ball bearings etc.): marine grease in light color (to see if it got dirty). I bought a small tub and one of those mini grease guns
- all oily lube locations inc. chain: a quart/pint of any of the wet chain lubes (many brands will do). I dilute it with some mineral spirits as needed. the larger container basically to save money and will last many years. 
- assembly paste (with the grit in it) for handlebar etc. installation. Any of the brands will work


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## GammaDriver (Nov 27, 2005)

lardo5150 said:


> Any specific grease that is recommended for crankset install, headset, fork, etc...
> 
> For the crankset and headset, was thinking of the park tool 1000 or the maxima stuff from WWC.
> 
> ...


For the last 20 years, I've been using boat trailer bearing grease - it's hydroscopic, and stays around in wet, muddy weather. A tube or can of it is much less expensive, and seemed to me - and the bike mechanics I've shown it to, to be the same grease (same color, same feel) as what Shimano was selling at a much higher price a few years ago.

I really don't believe that bicycle companies have unique specs that greases are made to vs. just spec'ing what the petroleum industry has to offer that for applications that are in similar environments.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

I like Motrex 2000 for everything but air suspention. For that I'll use Slicoleum.


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## biff55 (Jan 7, 2019)

you can get away with surprisingly few products to maintain an entire bike.

i use copper grease for anti seize of bolts and threads that dont use thread lock ,
waterproof teflon based grease for any bearings , pivots etc , and PTFE spray for any small moving parts such as shifters , cables , rear mechs.

all very cheap to purchase , no need to spend big bucks.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

biff55 said:


> you can get away with surprisingly few products to maintain an entire bike.
> 
> i use copper grease for anti seize of bolts and threads that dont use thread lock ,
> waterproof teflon based grease for any bearings , pivots etc , and PTFE spray for any small moving parts such as shifters , cables , rear mechs.
> ...


By entire bike, do you mean a rigid bike with a drivetrain that doesn't need lube?


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## biff55 (Jan 7, 2019)

ninjichor said:


> By entire bike, do you mean a rigid bike with a drivetrain that doesn't need lube?


No , i was excluding the obvious requirement for chain lube from the discussion.

Anyone would think you were trying to be a smart ass looking to start some petty argument in an effort to look all big & clever.....


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## jimPacNW (Feb 26, 2013)

I remember way back in the 80s my brother was having a conversation with a bike shop guy who said you "must use this bike-brand grease". My brother asked why the grease for his $50K bulldozer wasn't good enough for his $500 bike? 
I think there's a pretty wide variety that will work, so long as it doesn't get dirt or water in it, then it's time to clean and repack, but it's pretty common to not find out you've got something foreign in your bb bearing until after the damage is done: "hmm, why is it so hard to turn my crank?".


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## Forest Rider (Oct 29, 2018)

Some greases are too heavy, or too slippery for bike components. A thick greast won't allow bearings to roll withing the cage. Same with one too slick....no friction, therefore the bearings won't roll.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

Grease viscosity adds drag to a bearing, but it's very small compared to rolling resistance and wind resistance. I'm more interested in consistency, reliability, and durability--the things just got to work with minimal care/attention for me to be happy. Not so sure bearing slipping, before turning is a big deal.

https://cyclingtips.com/2016/05/fri...-and-seals-affect-cartridge-bearing-friction/


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## fredcook (Apr 2, 2009)

I use Park's grease. It works fine. I keep saying I'll try something else when I run out, but that little tube has lasted me a few years. I may never buy more grease...


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

I bought an old brass oil can at an antique store, got it home and realized it was 3/4 full with a super thick oil (consistency of honey). Through much research, I found out it was a 600w steam cylinder oil (cars use a 30w). I had some pedals that needed rebuilding, so instead of grease I tried this oil. Spins a bit better, and I don't think it will cake up like grease will. 

I also bought some One Ball Stanchion Oil for my forks. I cannot recommend this enough - its like voodoo. It removes that first bit of sticktion when you compress a fork, and make it much smoother all the way through the travel. You might actually need to add more air to your fork after using it.


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## GammaDriver (Nov 27, 2005)

Thustlewhumber said:


> I bought an old brass oil can at an antique store, got it home and realized it was 3/4 full with a super thick oil (consistency of honey). Through much research, I found out it was a 600w steam cylinder oil (cars use a 30w). I had some pedals that needed rebuilding, so instead of grease I tried this oil. Spins a bit better, and I don't think it will cake up like grease will.
> 
> I also bought some One Ball Stanchion Oil for my forks. I cannot recommend this enough - its like voodoo. It removes that first bit of sticktion when you compress a fork, and make it much smoother all the way through the travel. You might actually need to add more air to your fork after using it.


The main grease I've seen cake up was / were / are lithium-based greases. To this day, after 30 years of seeing people recommend it, I'll never know why lithium grease is considered 'good' for the applications folks say it's good for.


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## chadbrochills (Aug 9, 2018)

Thustlewhumber said:


> I bought an old brass oil can at an antique store, got it home and realized it was 3/4 full with a super thick oil (consistency of honey). Through much research, I found out it was a 600w steam cylinder oil (cars use a 30w). I had some pedals that needed rebuilding, so instead of grease I tried this oil. Spins a bit better, and I don't think it will cake up like grease will.
> 
> I also bought some One Ball Stanchion Oil for my forks. I cannot recommend this enough - its like voodoo. It removes that first bit of sticktion when you compress a fork, and make it much smoother all the way through the travel. You might actually need to add more air to your fork after using it.


FWIW, careful with using oils on the stanchions. I asked the Fox mechanics at our local festival about this a few weeks back, they do not recommend it at all. Said all they do is use some isopropyl alcohol to wipe forks/shocks down and that's it.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

chadbrochills said:


> FWIW, careful with using oils on the stanchions. I asked the Fox mechanics at our local festival about this a few weeks back, they do not recommend it at all. Said all they do is use some isopropyl alcohol to wipe forks/shocks down and that's it.


https://www.pinkbike.com/news/2018-summer-mountain-bike-gear-essentials.html
"The last time I visited Fox Racing Shox, I was granted access to their Area 51 where they work on the future products and test suspension for their pro racers. There was a bottle of Oneball's Stanchion Lube in every single work station. If that's not a testament to how good this stuff works, I don't know what is."

I was also looking at the Enduro Bearings website, and saw they used Almagard 3752. Looks super interesting. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Lubr...E-Almagard-Industrial-Grease-14-5-Oz,526.html


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## chadbrochills (Aug 9, 2018)

Thustlewhumber said:


> https://www.pinkbike.com/news/2018-summer-mountain-bike-gear-essentials.html
> "The last time I visited Fox Racing Shox, I was granted access to their Area 51 where they work on the future products and test suspension for their pro racers. There was a bottle of Oneball's Stanchion Lube in every single work station. If that's not a testament to how good this stuff works, I don't know what is."


Interesting. I mean you're quoting what's essentially an ad, so I'll take it with a grain of salt. Seems to be some miscommunication within FOX apparently?

Edit: Just emailed FOX's East Coast service center asking their take on it, for clarification.


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## eshew (Jan 30, 2004)

Rather than coat the outside of the stanchion I will do a lowers service & coat the seals & foam ring with Slickoleum. 

My guess is if you need to use stanchion lube you are in need of a lowers service or the seals weren't greased properly and they are dragging. An issue that shouldn't occur if the fork is properly maintained.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Most every very fork out there will stick on the first push. I actually got it for a bike with a coil fork that has never been serviced, and then I saw that every bike I owned (new/low mileage/recently rebuilt with too much Slickoleum) all had a bit of sticktion. The One Ball eliminated it on every bike.


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## chadbrochills (Aug 9, 2018)

Got an email back from FOX, which was a basic "we're not going to address your actual question" response....

"Hey Chad,

Sorry for the delayed response. While we may experiment with different items in our test lab, we have still found that regular service intervals are the best solution to keep suspension performing at its best.

Thanks,

KB

-----------------------------------------------------------
Kevin Booth
Eastern Service Center Manager - FOX "

Edit: replied back to him saying I just wanted to know if it's safe for regular use since the techs at their booth said they didn't recommend it and to only use some isopropyl alcohol to wipe the forks down with. His response:

"I would agree with that. I just keep my stanchions clean and do an occasional lower leg service and that keeps it working perfectly. Let us know if you have any other questions."

Edit 2: Asked him about stiction in the fork/shock after they sit for a while, his response:

"Bushing lube (oil bath) hangs out at the bottom of the fork legs on a stationary bike. No big deal but it takes a few cycles before that bath is distributed throughout and it will feel like it has a little breakaway force before that happens. If my bike has been sitting for a bit, I sometimes "wheelie" it while I'm walking with it in an effort to move the lube around but again, no big deal if you don't&#8230;it will get there pretty quickly either way."


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