# Let's talk grease. Specifically Finish Line Ceramic vs Park



## trhoppe (Sep 3, 2008)

Time to buy a new tub o' grease.

Seems that the "Park" stuff is pretty standard: Park Tool Co. » PPL-2 : PolyLube 1000 Lubricant (Tub) : Cleaning & Lube

This is also out there, and pretty much the same pricepoint: Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care Products

Any input on the new ceramic grease? Is there any difference with it? Seems anything "ceramic" is always better, right? 

-Tom


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

No input on the Finish Line grease, however I've been using the Park for years and it does well. It is pretty standard, though, as you said. For the past couple years at the shop we've been using White Lightning Crystal grease. Pretty standard grease also, however it's a lot cleaner. We had issues with the Park grease staining lighter colored parts and frames. Cleanup is a lot easier, and the no odor is nice for the home mechanic. The consistency is a little thicker than Park's, too which I personally like for a "standard" do everything grease.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Motorex has been my default for a while. I bought a tub of rock N roll last summer and it's OK, a little to stringy for my liking though. If you've never tried it Dumonde's liquid grease is awesome for cartridge bearings. If your good about doing your PM's it's all you need. If not you can put a little grease on top of it. It's also perfect for inboard hub bearings where dirt has a hard time getting.


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## datmony (Jul 12, 2012)

Phil Wood is still my standby. Likely always will be.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

datmony said:


> Phil Wood is still my standby. Likely always will be.


It's dated though. IMPO it's a little to thick for some of the modern bearings we are dealing with these days. It's still great for angular contact hubs and BB's with large diameter balls. But some of the new BB and hub bearings that have small balls, it just packs up and adds a bunch of unnecessary friction. If you just want a grease that will last as long as possible it's hard to beat though.


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## Dad Man Walking (Sep 7, 2004)

customfab said:


> ...and adds a bunch of unnecessary friction...


And your data supporting this would be...?


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Dad Man Walking said:


> And your data supporting this would be...?


It's pretty easy to feel. Put Phil grease in something like King hub bearings or a Campy Ultra Torque BB and they won't hardly spin by hand.


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## GTscoob (Apr 27, 2009)

I've been digging Lucas Red&Tacky for loose ball hubs and headsets but it might be too sticky for some of the smaller bearings found in cartridge setups. It's dirt cheap from the automotive store and lasts a long time in nasty conditions. FWIW, the Park grease is almost identical in color and feel to Lucas Marine Grease. 

Definitely look away from bike specific greases and look towards automotive/marine greases. None of the bike companies make their own grease, it's all repackaged from a petroleum processing plant overseas. Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease comes highly recommended as well but I've not used it personally.


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## .40AET (Jun 7, 2007)

Rock-n-Roll This really keeps the water away from the bearings and lasts a long time. You can "feel" it slow the pedals down when you turn them the first time. But it really lasts and stays put.


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## Harvie (Jan 27, 2013)

If you want to go around all the fluff adders, reduce your costs and get the very best lubes made, go to the loctite website and look at the lubes..

http://www.loctite.ph/php/content_data/LT3711_ViperLube_Synthetic_Lubricant_Brochure.pdf

Currently for all stuff not requiring nitro fuel protection I use Viperlubes It/they are the best stuff made and they work for every application on a bike......


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## xgerstandtx (Sep 18, 2012)

I use the Finishline and have had great results. Phil wood has been the standby for hubs/headsets. Park has never been my favorite. Seems to break down in the cold/damp for us here in Iowa


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## Surestick Malone (Jan 24, 2004)

customfab said:


> It's pretty easy to feel. Put Phil grease in something like King hub bearings or a Campy Ultra Torque BB and they won't hardly spin by hand.


Initially I find this to be the case but after a ride or two (as excess grease gets pushed out of the way) the bearings will free up.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Surestick Malone said:


> Initially I find this to be the case but after a ride or two (as excess grease gets pushed out of the way) the bearings will free up.


They will, but that doesn't mean they are as fast as if you'd use the right grease in the first place.


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## Bike Whisperer (Aug 7, 2012)

There is no such thing as "bicycle" grease (even if it is labeled as such). The only thing difference between "bicycle" grease and bearing grease is the label and the price. I've been using grease and packing bearings on bicycles since the early 80's and even work as a bicycle mechanic from 1995-2003. I've used many "bicycle" brands over the years such as Park, Pedros, Finish Line, Phil Wood, etc.

From my experience here are the best grease choices for different uses:

-Bel-Ray Waterproof for ultimate wet weather protection, works just as well as Phil Wood. 16oz tube costs about the same as 3oz tube of Phil Wood. I discovered this when the bike shop I worked for was next to a motorcycle shop. We purchased all our Grease and Fork Oil from them at retail because it was cheaper than the "bicycle" products at wholesale!

-Slickoleum for a light grease that works equally as good for suspension forks as it does for bearings. Also works great for freehub body mechanisms (at a fraction of the cost of "freehub" grease). Long lasting in all but the wettest conditions. 

However my go to grease for the past three plus years has been Lubrimatic "Green" LMX Red grease. A 16oz tub cost me $9 and it works as well as any "bicycle" grease I've used over the years. It is not too thick and not too thin, is pleasant smelling not chemical smelling, slick, and protects as well as any grease I've used. It is vegetable oil based and biodegradable. I would compare it to Park grease for about 2/3 the cost.


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## IRONMAN1518 (Jul 19, 2008)

Ah yes one of my favorite topic of discussion.......it always starts off with "What is the best............".(fill in the end of the sentence, grease, oil, tire, bike, fork, crankset, etc, etc, etc); and you will always get many different answers based upon all the users experiences with many products. I've always said: "ask 5 riders what is the best (fill in the blank), and you will probably get 8 answers again based on the experiences of the 5 people. 

MY opinion about what is the "Best Grease?" i always reply "SOME is better than NONE". I've used Castrol, Finish Line, Campy grease on my Campy equipped road bikes, Valvoline, and for the last 13 years been using Progold EPX. I really like it, it is somewhat thick and stringy and once it gets "broken in" the bearings, the wheels seem to spin forever. Just my own experience and opinion. As far as ceramic grease never have used it have no ceramic bearings. They are just a little too much $ for my budget.

I think it is a just a question of what a rider found that "worked for them" and then that person says THEIR fav brand is the best.


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## Toff (Sep 11, 2004)

I've been using a little tub of Slick 50 grease that I bought over 10 years ago.

No smell and it works great. Still have 9/10s of the tub left.


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## trhoppe (Sep 3, 2008)

I ended up with a tub of the Finish Line Ceramic grease.

Really digging the tub and it was cheap.

Amazon.com: Finish Line Ceramic Grease 1lb Tub: Sports & Outdoors

-Tom


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## Scott Novak (Mar 2, 2013)

I've been using Redline synthetic lubes for over 30 years. I particularly like Redline CV-2 organic moly grease. It's very slippery, has great water resistance and works in subzero temperatures, unlike most petroleum products that become too thick to lubricate adequately in the cold.

Redline CV-2 Grease
Red Line Synthetic Oil - Grease and Assembly Lube - CV-2 Grease

I lube all of my bearings with it. This includes disassembly of new parts, including pedal bearings, cleaning and then relubing with Redline CV-2.

I also use it for chain lube. However it's a pain in the butt to get the grease worked in. I'm going to try adding a solvent to the grease for easier application.

My other idea for applying grease to the chain is to put it in a vacuum so the grease is more easily sucked into the chain when the vacuum is released.

Scott Novak


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## bikeman68 (Jun 28, 2014)

*Bike Greases*



xgerstandtx said:


> I use the Finishline and have had great results. Phil wood has been the standby for hubs/headsets. Park has never been my favorite. Seems to break down in the cold/damp for us here in Iowa


 Thats so true, the Park grease was a real disappointment for me too, favorably thin yet failed horribly in wet weather and allowed bearings to rust and score hub, and that reminded me that not all bike greases are equal.If I had packed the hub in Phil grease this wouldnt have happened, that thinner version(Phil grease) of top quality auto bearing grease is still great stuff, with super film strength for a conventional oil grease.
Also Id like to add that we all need to pray for Phil Wood, he's dealing with Leukimia and needs our support. look up Byron Friday on FB


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## bikeman68 (Jun 28, 2014)

*Park Grease*



trhoppe said:


> Time to buy a new tub o' grease.
> 
> Seems that the "Park" stuff is pretty standard: Park Tool Co. » PPL-2 : PolyLube 1000 Lubricant (Tub) : Cleaning & Lube
> 
> ...


 Park Grease was garbage grease in my rear riad bike hub, allowed rust and lube failure which caused pitting/scoring, do NOT use for bearings unless its for a kids toy, or just greasing threads. Phil Wood Grease is the only proven one in my experience, to keep on protecting surfaces, even in wet weather.
Im interested in the long term use of Finish Line Ceramic
TROLLS
please dont bother adding your goober replies if this post is a few years old, it will never be obsolete, bikes will always need bearing lubrication.
The Park grease in summary is hyped up bottom of barrel oil that is no comparison to quality bearing lubrication


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^ Yep, bearing lubrication will never become obsolete.

Like Customfab's comment in #3 (2/6/2013), I have been using Motorex more and more. Just the right consistency and it's a really cool color. I also am a regular user of Buzzy's Slick Honey. Some might find these greases to b a bit lighter and thinner than many, but if you are a proponent of ongoing preventive maintenance, this might be the stuff. It's certainly not Phil Woods. And, that's a good thing when it comes to free-spinning reduced friction if that's important to you.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

How about this the stuff SRAM recommends for their suspension products -

PM600 red Military grease?

http://www.oilcenter.com/ProductInformationSheets/N-Z/PM600.pdf

I got a tube of it I use with my shocks. I figure its safe on the seals and plastics since SRAM specifically recommends it. Since there is more than I'll end up using on shocks I figure I can use it elsewhere, like bearings.

Buzzy's/Slickoleum is nice for dust wipers and seals - makes forks feel nice and slick.

Unless you use a grease that would damage seals/parts I think the "which is the best grease" is a hair-splitting proposition. I find that the shape and size of the tube and the functionality of the applicator tip is more important to me than what grease is used. That's why I liked Park's grease.

Are there general classifications of grease that do not work well with seals and plastic parts found on bikes?

Best grease I ever had was this large paint can sized tub I found in my neighbor's basement (took over his house after he died). He was a gun smith. Its gone now but was the most durable stuff ever. When I found it 20 years ago it was probably already 20 years old. I used it up years ago. Had that wicked strong "grease smell".


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## rwrusso (Apr 12, 2011)

Bike Whisperer said:


> There is no such thing as "bicycle" grease (even if it is labeled as such). The only thing difference between "bicycle" grease and bearing grease is the label and the price. I've been using grease and packing bearings on bicycles since the early 80's and even work as a bicycle mechanic from 1995-2003. I've used many "bicycle" brands over the years such as Park, Pedros, Finish Line, Phil Wood, etc.
> 
> From my experience here are the best grease choices for different uses:
> 
> ...


I was searching for comparisons between the PM600 military grease recommended for RockShox forks, and the LMX red grease you mention (which I have a tub of from previous research on general bike assembly use). Any experience with how they compare? Looking at their specs and MSDS pages, they look fairly close I think? Thanks.


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## Scott Novak (Mar 2, 2013)

rwrusso said:


> I was searching for comparisons between the PM600 military grease recommended for RockShox forks, and the LMX red grease you mention (which I have a tub of from previous research on general bike assembly use). Any experience with how they compare? Looking at their specs and MSDS pages, they look fairly close I think? Thanks.


And I'm STILL using Redline CV-2 Synthetic Moly grease.

I had the bearings in a pair of Fyxation Mesa pedals completely disintegrate in about 1-1/2 years. My theory is that the grease they used was NOT synthetic and stopped lubricating in the subzero Minnesota winters that I ride in. The seals failed and allowed the ingress of grit which ultimately caused the bearings to fail. But i still find it difficult to believe that the road grit could have traveled all of the way from the inner seal to the bearings at the outside end of the pedals.

With the next pair of Mesa pedals, I disassembled the pedals, removed the covers from the sealed bearings, solvent cleaned the bearings, repacked the bearings with Redline CV-2 grease, and also greased the sleeve bearings and seals with Redline CV-2, and have ridden the pedals 3 years now without of a problem.

Petroleum grease, like Phil Woods, may work fine for fair weather biking, but NOT in harsh conditions such as Minnesota winters.

For my chain I use Redline CV-2 that has just enough mineral spirits added to allow it to penetrate into the chain pivots. The mineral spirits evaporate leaving the grease inside the chain.

Redline CV-2 has a high washout resistance and low friction coefficient.

It's also great for automobiles.

https://www.redlineoil.com/cv-2-grease

It's good stuff Maynard!

Scott Novak


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

rwrusso said:


> I was searching for comparisons between the PM600 military grease recommended for RockShox forks, and the LMX red grease you mention (which I have a tub of from previous research on general bike assembly use). Any experience with how they compare? Looking at their specs and MSDS pages, they look fairly close I think? Thanks.


For fork seal lubricant, I prefer Buzzy's Slick Honey (Fox recommendation). It is lighter than PM600* (SRAM recommendation). Years ago, I used to use PM600 as an "O" ring lubrication because it was thicker and would hold "O" rings in place during component assembly. I have always been surprised that SRAM specified this lubricant for fork (seal & bushing) assembly because the commonly available PM600 is NLGI 2. I have also used Fox Float Fluid alone on new fork assemblies which is a slightly thick friction reducing suspension lubricant. It's what I soak the upper foam wiper seals in before assembly.

I would prolly prefer to use just fork oil or Fox Float Fluid over a thick, tacky bearing type grease like LMX Red. My assumption is it would provide mechanical lubrication, but with an increased friction coefficient that would likely be notable to someone who is sensitive to their suspension characteristics. The good part is that you're servicing and maintaining your stuff. Using any reasonably appropriate lubricant is better than not maintaining your equipment.

* It needs to be noted that the most commonly found PM600 is a NLGI grade 2 grease (thick and tacky). I think Buzzy's Slick Honey NLGI is 1, but I don't l know for sure. It's notably thinner than any PM600 that I have used. But PM600 is actually commercially available NLGI 000 - 3 (000 is very thin). Most just do not know it's available in multiple viscosities, nor do I believe SRAM to specify the grade.


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## eri (Sep 4, 2012)

Cleared2land said:


> For fork seal lubricant, I prefer Buzzy's Slick Honey (Fox recommendation). It is lighter than PM600* (SRAM recommendation). Years ago, I used to use PM600 as an "O" ring lubrication because it was thicker and would hold "O" rings in place during component assembly. I have always been surprised that SRAM specified this lubricant for fork (seal & bushing) assembly because the commonly available PM600 is NLGI 2. I have also used Fox Float Fluid alone on new fork assemblies which is a slightly thick friction reducing suspension lubricant. It's what I soak the upper foam wiper seals in before assembly.
> 
> I would prolly prefer to use just fork oil or Fox Float Fluid over a thick, tacky bearing type grease like LMX Red. My assumption is it would provide mechanical lubrication, but with an increased friction coefficient that would likely be notable to someone who is sensitive to their suspension characteristics. The good part is that you're servicing and maintaining your stuff. Using any reasonably appropriate lubricant is better than not maintaining your equipment.
> 
> * It needs to be noted that the most commonly found PM600 is a NLGI grade 2 grease (thick and tacky). I think Buzzy's Slick Honey NLGI is 1, but I don't l know for sure. It's notably thinner than any PM600 that I have used. But PM600 is actually commercially available NLGI 000 - 3 (000 is very thin). Most just do not know it's available in multiple viscosities, nor do I believe SRAM to specify the grade.


I believe sram fork butter, slick honey are both rebranded slickoleum. Its a light grease that is safe with seals. I didnt think it did well with water, emulsified quickly on me.

The grease i love for bearings is the shell polyrex em. Is low drag, sticks to metal and seems to ignore water. Used it by chance the first time and seems to work well for bb and freehub. Its a clear blue color.


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## eshew (Jan 30, 2004)

I have had good luck with Green Grease in suspension cartridge bearings & headset bearings.No complaints with that stuff.

I've noticed that with just factory grease or without additional lube they eventually either run dry or get contaminated with water & rust. 

We need that waterproof grease in the PNW. Riding all season long means a quick death for any non water proof grease.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

eshew said:


> I have had good luck with Green Grease in suspension cartridge bearings & headset bearings. I've noticed that they eventually either run dry or get contaminated with water & rust. No complaints with that stuff.
> 
> We need that waterproof grease in the PNW. Riding all season long means a quick death for any non water proof grease.


I believe that most common bearing grease is waterproof. All marine grades are as well as every bearing specific grease that I have ever used is. For most of my bearing applications, I like to use Motorex 2000, but there are plenty of high-quality bearing grease commonly available.

It's pretty easy to incorporate some standard practices to add additional barriers to protect bearings from water or other contaminates. Once you have serviced the bearing and re-installed the silicone seal, you can then add additional grease to the exterior of the bearing seal to prevent contamination. It's something that I always do and I almost never experience the contamination that you've addressed. While these photos are suspension pivot bearings, the same practice can be applied to almost all bearings. After assembly is completed, remove and clean remaining residual grease away.


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## eshew (Jan 30, 2004)

Excellent post, exactly what I do with green grease, although it looks slightly thicker. 

Might have to give motorex a try once I'm finished with my tube. 

Any issues with that grease leaking out? It looks pretty thin from the pics, although that could just be your excellent application 

Not a fan of white lithium grease, that doesn't seam to have the long life I would have assumed. Had a bearing set go notchy on my used Kona Operator & noticed that the white lithium had dried & was only coating the seals. Fresh grease had everything running smooth again.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

eshew said:


> Any issues with that grease leaking out? It looks pretty thin from the pics, although that could just be your excellent application
> 
> Not a fan of white lithium grease...


No, no issues with it leaking out.

Motorex 2000 is a NGLI 2 grease. Most commonly used waterproof bearing grease is NGLI 2. NGLI is a numerical scale for classifying the consistency or thickness of lubricating greases. NGLI 00 would be thinner than NGLI 3. The base oil viscosity and the amount of thickener greatly influence the NLGI grade of the finished lubricating grease.

Motorex 2000 is a calcium-based yellow fluorescent grease with long-lasting lubricating performance. It is a highly water-repellent and extremely pressure-resistant grease. It offers increased oxidation resistance and very good ageing resistance. Ideal for lubricating bearings, wheel bearings, joints and headset. Neutral to elastomers and seals and prevents galvanic corrosion.


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

We dont really have the heat, load or speed to really push grease. The only thing we're dealing with is resistance to water, and viscosity... and the viscosity difference is a handful of watts. The finishline flouro-something ultra light/slick grease has the lowest resistance, and is good for a couple watts. Not worth it, imo. 

If its rated for a trailer flying 55mph+ down the freeway in the rain, its sufficient for a bicycle. 

I like clear synthetic greases simply because they're so easy to see when contaminated. I think the convenience of a smaller tube is nice. I can squeeze grease directly into a bearing, as opposed to scooping out of a tub. 

Any decent name brand NLGI #2 grease is perfect for a bike. Slickoleum is perfect for suspension.


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## eshew (Jan 30, 2004)

Any tips on best ways to remove those cartridge bearing seals? I've been using dental picks but if there is another tool that works better I'd be all over it


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

*Bearing Seal Removal*

I use a set of dental tools that are very thin, and curved like small spoons. They work perfectly and gently slip under the silicone bearing seal for damage-free seal removal. Some use a pick or awl, but I don't like these because they can leave an indention in the seal. I think a sharp object (thin Exacto knife or razor) and slipping under the seal and gently prying the rubber seal off the bearing is better than use of a pick or awl like tool.

I carefully pop the seals off of the bearings by gently slipping the tool under the edge of the seal and carefully work it around the bearing race to lift the seal.





























The silicone seal is delicate and care must be taken. The seals are usually brass backed to provide stiffness and can be easily bent or damaged. The dental spoons also make re-installing the seals easy and smooth.


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## eri (Sep 4, 2012)

One Pivot said:


> If its rated for a trailer flying 55mph+ down the freeway in the rain, its sufficient for a bicycle.


Ha. I dont disagree with you conclusion but...

Sore spot for me. Ive never seen a boat trailer that didnt need bearings repacked after every rainy freeway drive. The issue isnt the grease there, grease cant survive if design is dumb enough.

Similar i've had bike parts where the bearings simply saw too much exposure to water spray. Any grease that could survive it was much too thick to pedal. Actually some grease i used that caused unpleasant drag was also quickly emulsified.

Conclusion: Pretty rare that good grease is a solution, pretty common that the wrong grease (wrong grade, chemical incompatibility) is a big problem.


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## Fajita Dave (Mar 22, 2012)

I've had good luck using Belray waterproof grease in suspension pivots. Seems to do a good job of keeping water out which prevents dirt from getting in.

Also on every bike frame I've had the pivots don't line up perfectly without having to kind of push one left or right to make everything line up. That side load won't do a radial bearing's races any favors along with any flex in the frame while riding.

For wheels and BB bearings I experimented with different greases in my road bike since any more or less drag will be obvious. After a few rides and excess grease gets pushed around the grease in wheel bearings didn't seem to have any real difference in perceived effort or speed between thick vs thin grease. Thick grease in the BB felt noticably slow. I settled on using slick honey in wheel and BB bearings. The wheel bearings are pretty well protected and I just accepted replacing the BB bearings more often for about $12 a piece.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I spent years with Belray and I bet that it would be a good grease for pivot bearings. I just never thought about Belray. Very thick and tacky.


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## Harry Hat (May 19, 2020)

Cleared2Land, do you have a brand/model/generic name for those dental tools?

My dad was an experienced dive master and would never use pointy metal picks to avoid tiny nicks that at 3000 psi could cause failures. I wonder if some of the hydraulic leaks in suspensions could be caused by this.

I've always used wooden toothpicks and/or plastic dental picks. Those spoon shaped metal tools look like they'd work well too.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Nope, I can't help with any information on these dental spoons. I acquired these at a yard sale many years ago and there are no identifying marks on them. I much prefer use of an Exacto knife or other very thin tool over picks. Yep, these work great for seal removal.


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## Harry Hat (May 19, 2020)

Thanks to your last post, I tried searching for "dental spoon" and found a lot more. Apparently "dental excavator" is another term. Awesome, something new for the toolbox, Thank again!


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## iSeeker (Jun 18, 2017)

Cleared2land said:


> I believe that most common bearing grease is waterproof. All marine grades are as well as every bearing specific grease that I have ever used is. For most of my bearing applications, I like to use Motorex 2000, but there are plenty of high-quality bearing grease commonly available.


@Cleared2Land - are you using different grease in these two pics? One looks green and one doesn't. I've seen other recommendations for NGLI 2 grease, so will probably give that a try. Do you know what Park Polylube is rated? I've had a tube for 6 years (hopefully it doesn't go bad!)


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

iSeeker said:


> @Cleared2Land - are you using different grease in these two pics? One looks green and one doesn't. I've seen other recommendations for NGLI 2 grease, so will probably give that a try. Do you know what Park Polylube is rated? I've had a tube for 6 years (hopefully it doesn't go bad!)


For most of my primary bearing applications (BB, pivot bearings, wheels, headset etc.), I use Motorex 2000. The photos above are all this grease. The color deviation must be the available light. It's kind of a fluorescent yellow-green grease.

Your recommendations for a NLGI 2 grease is just a standard for grease to define the relative thickness of a grease by the National Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI) Most common wheel bearing type greases are NGLI 2, but that classification ranges between 000 up to 9 (I think). I do not know what Park Polylube 1000 NLGI is, but I would assume it's classified as 2.


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## iSeeker (Jun 18, 2017)

Cleared2land said:


> For most of my primary bearing applications (BB, pivot bearings, wheels, headset etc.), I use Motorex 2000
> 
> ... I do not know what Park Polylube 1000 NLGI is, but I would assume it's classified as 2.


I'll have to look in to Motorex 2000 (looks like it would be similar to Polylube and White Lightening). Here are my notes on some greases after spending way too much time on it today:


*Lubriplate 105* - marketed as general purpose with anti-seize capabilities. NLGI 0, calcium base grease. From mtbr post "I use it for my freehub, bottom bracket bearings, pivot bearings, headset, and fork seals." 
*Slickoleum* is an NLGI 1.5, calcium base grease. Great for o-rings and roll bearings (like the freehub). People use on suspension; blends with other oils. Not for use on copper parts. Not for use on EPDM rubber. Good at low temps. Does not say for bearings but people seem to use it that way (think I would stick with NLGI 2 there). Seems the same as slick honey (see here; believe you said that above too!).  
*White Lightening* - NLGI 2, aluminum base grease (so slightly better at keeping water out). OK for o-rings. Seems similar to park polylube to me, which I have, so I don't need this (though I'm not sure if Park is aluminum or calcium based; to White Lightenings credit their labeling is crystal clear on what it is).  

I'm sure I got some of that wrong, but headed in the right direction. Also, this website (mcmaster) has tons of grease and you can pick and choose what properties you would like.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Interesting web site you provided. 

I used to use Lubiplate 105 many years ago on loose bearing cup & cone hubs. Slickoleum (Buzzy's Slick Honey) is my go-to light grease for suspension servicing and other thin grease needs. I always have this around. I have never used White Lightning.


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## SqueakyWheel73 (Sep 21, 2018)

Not on the original topic, but since we are talking about grease... what grease is compatible with mineral oil? SRAM sells their DOT-specific grease, but I've never seen anything advertised for mineral oil compatiblity. Of course, my Shimano brakes aren't really rebuildable anyway, but at this point it is just something that I've been wondering for a while....


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I am of the understanding that the DOT compatible greases is not that it's compatible with DOT brake fluid, but compatible with the seals used in DOT systems. The seals and "O" rings are where most grease has to have compatibility just as the lubricants (fluids) have to have that same compatibility.


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## iSeeker (Jun 18, 2017)

SqueakyWheel73 said:


> Not on the original topic, but since we are talking about grease... what grease is compatible with mineral oil? SRAM sells their DOT-specific grease, but I've never seen anything advertised for mineral oil compatiblity. Of course, my Shimano brakes aren't really rebuildable anyway, but at this point it is just something that I've been wondering for a while....


I don't have personal knowledge but from a quick google search:

"you want a grease that is not miscible with the brake fluid or it will dissolve in it. ie silicone grease for normal dot 3/4/5.1 fluid"

This post in MTBR is decent too. Seems like Dot 5 fluid is a different a from the the other brake fluids. Whole site on red rubber grease. Here is the SRAM stuff.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Miscible...nice word. 

DOT 5 is just a silicone-based fluid that was developed for use where moisture or water was almost certain to be a factor in the braking system, such as military applications. 

I have not used Red Rubber Grease in years...many years. I still have a tin of it in my lubricant cabinet that maybe I should perform a welfare check to if it has fossilized. It might be 20 or more years old.


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## iSeeker (Jun 18, 2017)

Harry Hat said:


> Cleared2Land, do you have a brand/model/generic name for those dental tools?
> 
> My dad was an experienced dive master and would never use pointy metal picks to avoid tiny nicks that at 3000 psi could cause failures. I wonder if some of the hydraulic leaks in suspensions could be caused by this.
> 
> I've always used wooden toothpicks and/or plastic dental picks. Those spoon shaped metal tools look like they'd work well too.


FYI - this dental set on amazon appears to have what you are looking for. total set with that tool is $10. https://www.amazon.com/Dental-Tools...tal+Picks&qid=1595718758&sr=8-2&ts_id=3778091


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## Harry Hat (May 19, 2020)

Thx for posting the link. Looks like a nice little kit, especially for the price. Saved the link to my wishlist for my next Amazon order.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

RobertHan said:


> Trong khi bạn đang ở đó, bạn cũng có thể muốn xem xét các đặc tính và công thức của nó. Tốt hơn hết bạn nên sử dụng chất bôi trơn không mài mòn, không độc hại và phù hợp để cải tạo lại vòng bi của bạn. Sự tiện lợi mà họ cung cấp để dễ dàng áp dụng đến gần một giây. Máy bôi kim loại hoặc ống hút thường hoàn thành công việc chính xác hơn.
> 
> Hãy nhớ rằng định kỳ làm sạch và bôi trơn vòng bi của bạn yêu cầu một giải pháp đáng tin cậy nhưng rẻ tiền. Hãy cộng điểm cho các sản phẩm có lợi ích đa tác vụ mà bạn có thể mang theo ở nhà hoặc khi di chuyển. Tìm kiếm một thói quen bôi trơn bền vững là rất quan trọng đối với hiệu suất tổng thể và sự an toàn của vòng bi của bạn.


While Vietnamese might be your native language, I doubt many here can read it. basic translation...

RobertHan sez: While you're at it, you may also want to consider its properties and formulas. It is better to use non-abrasive, non-toxic and suitable lubricants to rebuild your bearings. The convenience they provide for easy application up to almost a second. Metal applicators or straws often get the job done more accurately.

Remember that periodically cleaning and lubricating your bearings requires a reliable yet inexpensive solution. Earn points for products with multi-tasking benefits that you can take with you at home or on the go. Finding a sustainable lubrication routine is crucial to the overall performance and safety of your bearings.


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## GMUGNIER (Dec 5, 2006)

Caterpillar Desert Gold.


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## Harry Hat (May 19, 2020)

A year ago or so I think this thread mentioned something about grease eating O-rings. I think I asked about how not to scratch O-rings. I found this recently Santech Nylon O-Ring Pick Tool. At AutoZone but there should be similar picks. Working with scuba O-rings at 3000 pounds/inch taught me to treat them well. Might be overkill for bike parts, but $3 is worth it


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## jabpn (Jun 21, 2004)

Scott Novak said:


> Petroleum grease, like Phil Woods, may work fine for fair weather biking, but NOT in harsh conditions such as Minnesota winters.


I know this is an old thread but there is Krytox 240 AC. It'll get you through a Minnesota winter just fine. Though, it may be just a taaaddddd out of the price range, lol.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^^
Right. Name one person that will wastefully spend $270 for a 2 ounce tube of Krytox that's intended for orbital and deep space applications. There plenty of low temp capable greases available that are well suited for bikes.


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## chadbrochills (Aug 9, 2018)

When I went to do some maintenance on my 5010, I contacted SC to see what they recommend for grease. They said they use Mobil Polyrex EM now. Ordered some from Grainger, seems to work well. I was using Park Tool and Phil Wood, but both seemed to thin out quite a bit with the Florida heat. No such issues yet with the Mobil grease. 

Also going to pick up some Morotex 2000 soon.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^
I assume that you're referring to VPP grease?
Any high-quality automotive bearing grease works fine. I use the Motorex 2000 for all hub, headset, pivot and VPP applications.


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## chadbrochills (Aug 9, 2018)

Cleared2land said:


> ^^^^
> I assume that you're referring to VPP grease?
> Any high-quality automotive bearing grease works fine. I use the Motorex 2000 for all hub, headset, pivot and VPP applications.


Yeah, contacted them to see what use with the pivot bolts, etc. The Mobil Polyrex EM is made for electric motor bearings and is a little thicker. I've heard good things about the Motorex grease, that's why I'm going to pick some up.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

For many years they used the light blue CRC Sta Lube Marine grease.


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## milehi (Nov 2, 1997)

AeroShell 33


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

Pivots hardly move at all, and these greases are for thousands of pounds of car and truck driving for hours at freeway speed. To an extent, they're all overkill. 

If you really want to get application specific, an EP "extreme pressure" grease is probably most appropriate for a non rotating bearing. Bike frame bearings really just smoosh their lube out and try to flatten the bearings, so any high pressure grease makes sense. Opposite of what a hub bearing needs.


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