# Preferred Single Speed Chain Tension Method?



## bjcccat (Jul 28, 2009)

Want to try to take a poll here. What is your preferred method of chain tension for a single speed?

1. Horizontal Dropout
2. Pivoting Dropout
3. Eccentric BB
4. Chain Tensioner
5. Something Else

My vote is Eccentric BB. Change to effective bb height does not bother me.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

They all have pluses/minuses. The bottom bracket doesn't change the chainstay length, but changes the fit of the bike. Adjustable dropouts change the chainstay length, but maintain fit. Tensioners do neither, but add something that contributes to drag/mechanical failure point.

My preference is dropouts; EBBs are difficult to adjust well without shop tools, and I prefer the clean lines of a bike with no tensioner.


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## 834905 (Mar 8, 2018)

My current bike has a pivoting dropout, and works great. I really like it. You really can't to wrong with horizontal though, as long as you're not finicky about a few mm here and there on your rear end.

Tensioners are a no go for me, and EBBs are a last resort. I've used the Wheels Mfg EBB and had good luck with it, but it's definitely not my preferred setup.


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## BansheeRune (Nov 27, 2011)

bjcccat said:


> Want to try to take a poll here. What is your preferred method of chain tension for a single speed?
> 
> 1. Horizontal Dropout
> 2. Pivoting Dropout
> ...


Sliding dropout... *Mic Drop*

Alternator is another viable option.


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## knl2stl (Jan 7, 2011)

White Industries Eno if converting from vertical dropouts.


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## BrianU (Feb 4, 2004)

I have used horizontal dropouts and sliding dropouts. I love the cleans lines of horizontal dropouts and have no problems with using them. However given a choice, all else being equal, prefer sliding dropouts. I run them on a Kona Unit and Honzo. They have never slipped or made noise, it is rare to hear of anybody else having problems with them and while pulling and reinstalling a rear wheel is not a common occurrence these days thanks to tubeless, sliding dropouts still makes it a whole lot less of a hassle.

EBBs....the internet is full of "how to keep your EBB from making noise" for a reason. Depending on the bike, I would not completely write them off, but it is definitely at the bottom of my list for tensioning on a SS frame.

Oops....knl2stl's post reminded me that I did run a White Industries ENO hub on my GT Zaskar for awhile. It worked and I rode it a lot, but even small tension adjustments for something like chain stretch and it was a hassle realigning the V-brake pads. I also had problems with slipping, had to keep an eye on it and was usually readjusting it about every third ride. I think that had something to do with the dropouts on the Zaskar. There was not much material for the eccentric hub axle to bite into when the axle bolts were tightened and hold it in place.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

bjcccat said:


> Want to try to take a poll here. What is your preferred method of chain tension for a single speed?
> 
> 1. Horizontal Dropout
> 2. Pivoting Dropout
> ...


Horizontal or pivoting/sliding dropouts. The rest are sub-optimal and I wouldn't be interested.


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## david.p (Apr 11, 2011)

I have had a Jones with a Bushnell EBB for years without issues. I pull it, clean it up, and re-grease it once in a while but it's never made a peep.

I just got a bike with a pinch bolt shell which should be just as reliable.

I have a few bikes with sliding dropouts and those are fine as well. 

I like both of these methods as once chain tension is set the wheel can be removed without messing with it again.


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## Ogre (Feb 17, 2005)

I fell in love with the EBB on the Niner One 9 and after 9 years... I've fallen out of love with it. While I don't have the notorious creak that others mention, I do find it just a little harder to adjust on trailside which has prevented me from tightening the chain more than once. The first time it was a harmless chain drop, but I've had a minor crash when the chain dropped at a really bad time.

My own fault for not fixing it immediately. But I had similar issues with sliding drops and it's always been just a little easier to deal with trailside which is important to me. That, plus the general knowability/ usability of sliders has me sold. So I won't mess with EBBs any more. 

I suspect pivoting drops have many of the same characteristics, I've just never used one. 

Aside from that, sliding drops can be used to shorten or lengthen your chain stay length when you are running a derailleur which is a bit of a side bennie.


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## 834905 (Mar 8, 2018)

I'm my experience the holding power of rocker type dropouts has been stellar, and from a purely usability standpoint they've been by favorite... My big issue with them is that they're super goofy looking. Superficial obviously, but I just really don't care for how they look. They stick out like a sore thumb.


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## 2:01 (May 10, 2010)

My top choice would have to be good old track ends (what you all incorrectly refer to as horizontal dropouts). Easy, foolproof, clean. Next is EBB. Clean lines and both Bushnell and Niner EBB’s were absolutely problem-free. Not sure what the other poster was talking about but adjustment does not need any special shop tools. Allen wrenches and a torque wrench. That’s it.
I run sliding drops currently. It works fine but it is rather ugly.


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## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

My current SS has an EBB, it took a little bit of effort to get creak free and zero slip. But it has been great for a while now. If I changed gearing for different trails, I would go with adjustable dropouts.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

2:01 said:


> Not sure what the other poster was talking about but adjustment does not need any special shop tools.


As in, I do not ride with long L-keys, nor a torque wrench.

Pinch bolt EBBs are generally okay. Bushnell's usually don't get stuck, but it's possible a wedge doesn't come free. The old wedge style is pretty much impossible to adjust without hammer/punch, and the set-screw versions have their own unique problems.

They are relevant problems, but only if you don't stay on top of maintenance. It's unlikely that, on an enthusiast forum, that is a problem people here have encountered.


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## Karmatp (Feb 7, 2020)

Horizontal dropouts for the win.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Sliding dropouts are my preferred setup. Horizontal dropouts/Track Ends are my second favorite. I have Paragon Swingers and don't like them. EBB is not something I'm interested in, there are better options IMO.

This has been covered many times if you do a search.









Sliders or horizontal dropouts? Pros and cons.


Okay, I imagine this has been done before, but I am getting close to having a frame built to order and am curious as to whether a slider type dropout like Paragon, or horizontal dropout aka track ends would provide the best power transfer and wheel security? I'm 5' 11" and 210 lbs and like...




www.mtbr.com













preferred method for building a singlespeed frame


(I have no experience with fabricating.) framebuilders: what would you prefer for building a SS-specific metal bike? what's easier to work for you and what offers the best performance for the rider? while there are probably other options, there's PF30 with an eccentric BB adapter, and various...




www.mtbr.com


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## johnsalvaggio (Apr 16, 2020)

Paragon Machine Works sliding rear dropout with integrated brake mount.


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## 2:01 (May 10, 2010)

wschruba said:


> As in, I do not ride with long L-keys, nor a torque wrench.
> 
> Pinch bolt EBBs are generally okay. Bushnell's usually don't get stuck, but it's possible a wedge doesn't come free. The old wedge style is pretty much impossible to adjust without hammer/punch, and the set-screw versions have their own unique problems.
> 
> They are relevant problems, but only if you don't stay on top of maintenance. It's unlikely that, on an enthusiast forum, that is a problem people here have encountered.


Niner EBB, just has two 5mm bolts. 
Bushnell - single 6mm bolt
Split shells - two 5mm bolts
No long Allen wrench needed. No torque wrench needed trail side. Just ride home and torque to spec. And yes, set screw was the worst. I'd never own one. Came so close to buying a Singular back in the day but could not get over the set screw ebb they continue to use.

In my 10 years of riding various EBB's, never had to make any trail side adjustments. That pretty much goes for all other tensioner mechanisms as well.

Yeah, if you don't keep up on maintenance, things can get messy. Same for everything else cycling related, really. But that's all on you.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

I'm curious how you would rotate the eccentric without a pin spanner/L-key braced against the bottom bracket, but I suppose you could bodge something on the trail.


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## jct (Mar 26, 2004)

paragon machine works horizontal sliders.


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## 2:01 (May 10, 2010)

wschruba said:


> I'm curious how you would rotate the eccentric without a pin spanner/L-key braced against the bottom bracket, but I suppose you could bodge something on the trail.


It's easy. I never even used a spanner at home. For Bushnell, just stick the Allen key in the BB, rotate the cranks, which turns the EBB (like you were describing).










For Niner, I just turn it by hand.

But like I said, I've never had to do this on the trail. Knock on wood.


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## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

I have adjusted my Specialized EBB on the trail. Loosen the pinch bolts, rotate the EBB by turning the BB where the BB wrench goes and then tighten up the pinch bolts. I witness mark the bolts so that I can get the torque correct or close to it without a torque wrench.


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## BansheeRune (Nov 27, 2011)

Karmatp said:


> Horizontal dropouts for the win.


Snail cams or tug nutz?? Sliders are far better at staying in adjustment, just ask my trials bike!



Bacon Fat said:


> I have adjusted my Specialized EBB on the trail. Loosen the pinch bolts, rotate the EBB by turning the BB where the BB wrench goes and then tighten up the pinch bolts. I witness mark the bolts so that I can get the torque correct or close to it without a torque wrench.


Twist enough bolts and a torque wrench is only needed for special occasions.


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## asphaltdude (Sep 17, 2008)

I'm a simple guy, so I like my track ends.


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## chuckha62 (Jul 11, 2006)

I have sliding dropouts with a Gates belt drive on my newest frame and will use the same dropouts on a frame that's being built.

For my two older, vertical dropout frames I have had absolutely no issues with the (no longer vailable) Soulcraft Convert tensioner.


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## maynard4130 (May 12, 2019)

Right now I have sliding dropouts (salsa alternator plates), but I prefer simple track ends.


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## Travolta (Oct 26, 2016)

horizontal dropouts paired with closed cam shimano QR

I can take the wheel out in seconds and closed cam QR never slips.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

An EBB is the only thing that has completely ruined a ride (race) for me.
Wedge bolt broke on the way to the start line of a 3hr back country XC race on my Chameleon. Riding to the start I noticed the BB had moved over to the right and thought that wasn't quite usual. Back home, changed the race number over to the rigid Kona Unit and back to the start line just in time.
I'd set the Chameleon up as the ultimate bike for that course.
High Roller 2's, Schwalbe Pro Core, 140mm Pike, dropper, 32/21 gearing...
Took a year for the importer to get me a new EBB.
Never rode it again


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

^ that sucks!


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## Jukka4130 (Jun 21, 2020)

Am I the only one having problems with sliding dropouts staying in place? No matter what, the wheel moves sooner or later so that the chain tension is less than stellar. 

I am using the Paragon Machine Works dropouts on my frame which are a very nice piece of kit, but I am quite disappointed that they don't seem to deliver.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Horizontal Dropout, if they have a sliding tray that you can adjust, then it's simple and effective with no real downsides and no complexities. It means that every time you take a wheel off and put it back on, it goes back in the same place with no adjustment.
Open dropouts with tensioners are not as sleek. They are getting less common on mountain bikes. For a reason.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Jukka4130 said:


> Am I the only one having problems with sliding dropouts staying in place? No matter what, the wheel moves sooner or later so that the chain tension is less than stellar.
> 
> I am using the Paragon Machine Works dropouts on my frame which are a very nice piece of kit, but I am quite disappointed that they don't seem to deliver.


There are many implementations of sliding dropouts. The question is really about issues with Paragon dropouts. Not general sliding dropouts. I have sliding dropouts on a specialized bike, and they are trouble free.


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## BansheeRune (Nov 27, 2011)

Jukka4130 said:


> Am I the only one having problems with sliding dropouts staying in place? No matter what, the wheel moves sooner or later so that the chain tension is less than stellar.
> 
> I am using the Paragon Machine Works dropouts on my frame which are a very nice piece of kit, but I am quite disappointed that they don't seem to deliver.


I have used a few different sliders without issue over the years without any drama. Snail cams, tugnuts etc. were drama queens in whoreisontal dropouts. 
Surfaces must be clean and free of grime etc.


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## Karmatp (Feb 7, 2020)

I took this pic today after I got a sidewall tear, had to use some bacon. This is my specialized fuse. If you look at the rear dropout, you can see a little hole that moves the horizontal dropouts forward and back with a allen, it's an amazing system. This is how a single speed should be set up, all the tensioner's and ebb's seem way to complicated and not as reliable.


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## Little_twin (Feb 23, 2016)

Jukka4130 said:


> Am I the only one having problems with sliding dropouts staying in place? No matter what, the wheel moves sooner or later so that the chain tension is less than stellar.
> 
> I am using the Paragon Machine Works dropouts on my frame which are a very nice piece of kit, but I am quite disappointed that they don't seem to deliver.


The only time I've ever had mine move has been when I've left a bolt bolts slightly loose. Is the stainless sliding portion painted or polished? Which way are they moving?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

Jukka4130 said:


> Am I the only one having problems with sliding dropouts staying in place? No matter what, the wheel moves sooner or later so that the chain tension is less than stellar.
> 
> I am using the Paragon Machine Works dropouts on my frame which are a very nice piece of kit, but I am quite disappointed that they don't seem to deliver.


I now have my first set of sliders (PMW) only half dozen rides or so but also having some issues with maintaining alignment. The frame stop screw doesn't seem to have any effect and the slider bolts are tightened as far as I dare. Compared to my past EBBs which were set and forget turning into a PITA. Going to bring it into the garage to study the situation more closely, but setting trailside not ideal so far.


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

After today's ride, I think the issue with sliders is how many surfaces need to be in alignment. When everything is adjusted at rest aligment looks good, as soon as I get some stand and mash/braking cycles tire is very close on non-drive side. Nothing has opened up between the tension screws and sliders. So it looks like when all surfaces have equalized the frame might be off by a small amount in the sliders.


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## fishywishy (Feb 23, 2008)

tensioner with vert dropouts. can use any frame, any gear combo, dont need to worry about chain stretch. ive never had good luck with horizontal dropouts on a park or trials bike. the ebb looks interesting though.


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## BansheeRune (Nov 27, 2011)

fishywishy said:


> tensioner with vert dropouts. can use any frame, any gear combo, dont need to worry about chain stretch. ive never had good luck with horizontal dropouts on a park or trials bike. the ebb looks interesting though.


Eccentric BB has its issues...

9


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## Jefflinde (Mar 26, 2015)

Tensioner. no slipping, can run any cog/chainring combo on the same chain, can use any bike frame ever made, frame geometry stays the same as chain wears or if cog is swapped out and lastly is i can run any component i want like 30mm cranks or what ever. Only downside are aesthetics and sounds/feel but i don't honestly notice then when i am actually riding.


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## kustomz (Jan 6, 2004)

After trying different tensioner gizmos, I am now running horizontal drops with a Wheels Manufacturing solid rear axle in a Shimano hub. This has been bullet proof so far with zero issues. Pull the wheel back tighten the nuts and go ride!


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## Redlands R&C (Dec 14, 2013)

kustomz said:


> View attachment 1954744


What frame is this?


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## kustomz (Jan 6, 2004)

It is a large 2013 On-One Scandal


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## BansheeRune (Nov 27, 2011)

With axle and nuts of that size, suitable torque can be applied to keep the wheel in position without drama.


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## 2sharp7 (Aug 29, 2013)

Interesting topic for a newbie like me, having never yet ridden a SS MTB. Last SS I rode was a Schwinn Stingray or something like that when I was about 10...lol.
I just recently got my first hardtail since getting into mountain biking at 48 about 7 years ago. Single speed never even crossed my radar until shortly after I started riding the hardtail, but now for some reason I want to try SS at 55. As my frame has rear through axle, I can see I'd need a tensioner to run it SS. So my question is "which" chain tensioner? I don't want to ruin the look of this sweet bike with some cheesy device, and the ones I've seen from online research that appear to be good looking, well engineered pieces of kit, are the Paul Melvin tensioner, and the Rohloff. What do you all recommend? Also what else do I need to order other than a cog and chain? Can I keep my oval chainring I'm currently running in the front? I'm thinking a round chainring may be better with SS? Any advice would be appreciated. For the past couple of weeks I've been just about ready to buy another frame with either sliders or horizontal dropouts, but now I'm thinking I should probably just run my current hardtail SS for a while to make sure I will like it.


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## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

I have a Paul and Rohloff tensioner. If I remember right, the Paul is limited to something like 18t and the Rohloff will just fit 20t. Depending on what ratio you are wanting to run that could be a deal breaker, for me a 20t cog is about the smallest I'd be running so the Rohloff is the better option. It also seems to have a stronger spring and overall better design (pivots at the upper pulley instead of in the middle of the cage). 

If using the Rohloff, I highly recommend adding a small shim to the mounting bolt so that the arm is held in a fixed position instead of being able to pivot. This helped with some skipping issues that I was having.


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## Andy R (Nov 26, 2008)

Unlike others, it seems, I’ve never had any problems with the Phil Wood setscrew BB that Singular use. No slippage, easy to adjust. Well, if I’m being strictly honest, I did have a problem with one and that was on my titanium Hummingbird and for two reasons....
One is that on it the set screws are no longer located at the 6 o’clock position but more rearwards, say around 8 o’clock. This means that as you nip them up the tension is marginally increased, so you have to allow for this. It was made worse by the fact that the shell was machined about 0.2mm oversize....
However, I’ve solved this by machining 2.00mm off the register dia. of the BB insert, shrinking on two rings and then machining these to the correct fit.

I’ve got a Trek 69er singlespeed with sliding dropouts and that’s completely trouble-free....


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

Sliders all the way. I have used track ends too, but that was with a bolt on hub and chain tug. EBB's are the devil. I had one that was so bad in every way I eventually sold the frame.


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## maynard4130 (May 12, 2019)

Completely agree. EBB's in theory should work fine, but a lot of the time they either move, creak or strip. I tell people to avoid at all costs. Track ends with tugs or sliders with set screws are superior.


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## BansheeRune (Nov 27, 2011)

Tugs and snail cams are drama queens...


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

BansheeRune said:


> Tugs and snail cams are drama queens...


I have tugs on at least 4-5 frames, never had an issue with any of them. I much prefer that system over an EBB.


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## BansheeRune (Nov 27, 2011)

*OneSpeed* said:


> I have tugs on at least 4-5 frames, never had an issue with any of them. I much prefer that system over an EBB.


EBB was and is a PITA for many reasons. Especially in a wet/muddy environment since many are slackers with proper maintenance. Wish my trials bike had sliders vs snail cam regardless.


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## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

I have good luck with my EBBs, I did put plumber tape on the outside of the EBB shell. It stop any slipping or creaking


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## Gym123 (Dec 4, 2021)

Since it's related, what do riders do if they want to use more than one crankset or chainring(s), whether single, or in a set? Do you keep one chain with each ratio, or find a midpoint and just use it? I know there are several methods of determining the correct chain length, but I have seen bikes with plenty of chain sag that kept going for years without problems.


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## BansheeRune (Nov 27, 2011)

Gym123 said:


> Since it's related, what do riders do if they want to use more than one crankset or chainring(s), whether single, or in a set? Do you keep one chain with each ratio, or find a midpoint and just use it? I know there are several methods of determining the correct chain length, but I have seen bikes with plenty of chain sag that kept going for years without problems.


I have cogs and chainrings along with tailored chains to match. This makes a gear change a two minute pleasure with that Heinz jingle in mind! Anticipation is not makin' me wait! Time to ride and enjoy that one speed automatic experience is at hand. 

Chain tension is somewhat of a need! Loose and it may start slipping on the cog during hard acceleration or when you go wide open throttle on a stiff climb. That will shorten the life of the system as a whole. Use proper tension for longevity and reliability. Your bike will thank you!


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## Gym123 (Dec 4, 2021)

BansheeRune said:


> I have cogs and chainrings along with tailored chains to match. This makes a gear change a two minute pleasure with that Heinz jingle in mind! Anticipation is not makin' me wait! Time to ride and enjoy that one speed automatic experience is at hand.
> 
> Chain tension is somewhat of a need! Loose and it may start slipping on the cog during hard acceleration or when you go wide open throttle on a stiff climb. That will shorten the life of the system as a whole. Use proper tension for longevity and reliability. Your bike will thank you!


I removed the chain- when I was looking for a master link, I saw how much gunk was in the chain (was wearing glasses and using a bright light, unlike the other times). I had used BoeShield and it was very quiet, but it still shed a lot of black dirt when I wiped it today, so I decided to soak it. The cleaner is pretty groaty looking, too. Once I finish cleaning it, I'll decide if I'll replace or use it but I checked it and it's not stretched.


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## BansheeRune (Nov 27, 2011)

Gym123 said:


> I removed the chain- when I was looking for a master link, I saw how much gunk was in the chain (was wearing glasses and using a bright light, unlike the other times). I had used BoeShield and it was very quiet, but it still shed a lot of black dirt when I wiped it today, so I decided to soak it. The cleaner is pretty groaty looking, too. Once I finish cleaning it, I'll decide if I'll replace or use it but I checked it and it's not stretched.


Should still have some miles left in it. Frankly, I never use an oil/grease based lubricant on my chains since it attracts and traps dirt and grime that will grind the chain to pieces in short order. Rock lube or similar has served well.


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## Gym123 (Dec 4, 2021)

BansheeRune said:


> Should still have some miles left in it. Frankly, I never use an oil/grease based lubricant on my chains since it attracts and traps dirt and grime that will grind the chain to pieces in short order. Rock lube or similar has served well.


I don't know if the chain is original (I kind of doubt it, considering the things that were neglected to some extent), but it's possible that it's old, but it wasn't ridden hard. The chainrings are pretty worn, but it didn't skip like 3 & 4 on the original Helicomatic on my Trek and I kept that chain clean & lubed. This one has wear on the front end, but the freehub looks really good. Since I don't know the service history, I have disassembled just about everything to clean & lube, other than the derailleur itself (removed the cage and pulleys- they were pretty loaded with crud). The front bearings are the only think left, aside from new grips and adjusters for the brakes- the ones that came with the levers are plastic and the thread is weak, so the new ones will be Aluminum.


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