# Modernizing a vintage specialized



## dubya3 (May 1, 2016)

As I've posted in other threads, I just picked up a 92ish rigid Stumpjumper. I always like to modernize the old bikes I pick up but this is the first with old cantilever brakes and I'm curious if anyone knows if v brakes would fit. It looks like I could get them to work fine but before I spend $70 on a pair of XT T780 brakes I'd like some assurance! Also, assuming the brakes fit okay, do I need a new set of levers or could I keep the canti levers?

I may be getting new levers all together regardless since I want to go 1x7 and don't like the combo shift/brake levers after the front mech delete. That brings me to my next question, since I'm staying with a 7spd rear so I don't need to replace the original hub and there aren't any current 7spd xt shifters available, I assume a 9 speed XT shifter would be fine for a 7 speed rear?

This all might change if I decide to spend the extra money on a new wheelset.

I almost forgot, this is more than likely a 5 bolt 110 BCD, correct? I'm planning on getting a 36t wolftooth ring to replace the original three.









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## crossracer (Jun 27, 2004)

V brakes will work but without v brake levers they will feel rubbish. So plan on brake levers too. Now with v brakes depending on the frame you may need a clamp on cable stop. Take a picture of the seat tube area to see for sure.



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## dubya3 (May 1, 2016)

The cable stop is there thankfully.









As long as a 9 speed shimano shifter will work with the original 7 speed derailleur, I think everything should be good to go.

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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

You could also consider a canti upgrade. I had the same brakes you're using and got some Avid Shorties. Noticeable improvement in 'feel'


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## dubya3 (May 1, 2016)

OlMarin said:


> You could also consider a canti upgrade. I had the same brakes you're using and got some Avid Shorties. Noticeable improvement in 'feel'


I love the br t780 brakes, they're the best rim brakes I've used. Realistically, the brakes on it now are fine but since I'm replacing the shift lever I may as well get the brakes I want.









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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

dubya3 said:


> I assume a 9 speed XT shifter would be fine for a 7 speed rear?


No. Different cable pull and sprocket spacing. It will shift like a mad woman's breakfast.

8sp shifters will work but give a redundant "click".



dubya3 said:


> I almost forgot, this is more than likely a 5 bolt 110 BCD, correct?


Dunno. But you can measure between the bolts, refer to the table here and be armed with the knowledge and the method for future reference.

How to measure Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD) ? wolftoothcomponents.com

On brakes, I've got some cyclocross cantis on one of by regular-use vintage bikes. I went with those because they take a v-brake pad so chasing replacement pads was a little easier and also ease of pads set up.

You have a cable guide, not a cable stop. Cantis run inner cable all the way to the centrepull bracket. V brakes run an outer between the caliper arm and the frame. You might be able to kludge something up to work, but it's not as straightforward a conversion. Surely someone here has done similar and can throw some advice into the pot.

Grumps


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## mik_git (Feb 4, 2004)

all those LX parts look more like 1994 or newer.


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## crossracer (Jun 27, 2004)

dubya3 said:


> The cable stop is there thankfully.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nope, that is not the cable stop you need for a v brake upgrade. Since v brakes use and an exterior housing you will need this









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## dubya3 (May 1, 2016)

crossracer said:


> Nope, that is not the cable stop you need for a v brake upgrade. Since v brakes use and an exterior housing you will need this
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah I noticed that afterwards. I was wondering how I could make it work or if I needed smaller outer cable. Thanks for the adapter, I had no idea there was such a thing.

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## dubya3 (May 1, 2016)

By the way, do you know if 28.6 is the tube size of these old steel Stumpjumpers?

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## azimiut (Feb 21, 2014)

I had the same issue on my hardrock. since I was going 1x10 I took a a cable stop off and re located it here. and then made a cable hanger from an old wrench and 1/4in socket. but thats fine if you are planning on painting it and know how to braze.

I have FSA cyclocross Canti on the bike.

before









after


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## dubya3 (May 1, 2016)

I'll probably just get that orgin8 clamp on one to be honest. If I could find a good repro set of stickers I'd love to have it repainted and have a stop brazed on. 

Going 10 speed would be nice since I already have a Sram x9 10 speed drivetrain waiting to be put on something but there's more money I need to spend because I don't think I can fit that 10spd or even an 8spd cassette onto the rear hub. 

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## phattruth (Apr 22, 2012)

dubya3 said:


> I'll probably just get that orgin8 clamp on one to be honest. If I could find a good repro set of stickers I'd love to have it repainted and have a stop brazed on.
> 
> Going 10 speed would be nice since I already have a Sram x9 10 speed drivetrain waiting to be put on something but there's more money I need to spend because I don't think I can fit that 10spd or even an 8spd cassette onto the rear hub.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


8 speed will fit with a spacer. You might be able to fit a 10 speed cassette on a 7 speed hub if you are able to change the cassette body.

Shimano Cassettes & Freehubs

I just put a 1 x 10 setup on my Stowe over the weekend. 1 x 8 was a bit short on the upper range so having a 36T will really help.


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## dubya3 (May 1, 2016)

I think I have everything in the wish list I need to make a 1x10 drive with v brakes. It'll cost me about $400 but I may as well do it the way I want.









I'll need the clamp on cable stop and will use the original LX crankset. This will be a slow process as I'm working on my main xc bike currently and funds will get tighter as winter comes and work slows.

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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Why do you need that org8 adapter? why not just run full length housing for the brake?

And you can fit an 8 or 9 speed cassette (maybe 10) on a 7-speed hub, if you're willing to remove one of the cogs. If it's one of the cheaper cassettes, just remove the screws holding it all together, remove a cog and spacer, and throw it on the hub. Steel hubs only though. No alloy hubs allowed to this party.


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## dubya3 (May 1, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Why do you need that org8 adapter? why not just run full length housing for the brake?
> 
> And you can fit an 8 or 9 speed cassette (maybe 10) on a 7-speed hub, if you're willing to remove one of the cogs. If it's one of the cheaper cassettes, just remove the screws holding it all together, remove a cog and spacer, and throw it on the hub. Steel hubs only though. No alloy hubs allowed to this party.


I think the stop will provide alot better feel in the lever, but I've never tried what you suggested either. The clamp on will look ugly but still cleaner than the full length. I suppose I could zip tie the cable to the frame though..

I want to go at least 9 speed because there's not much in 7/8 speed for mid end components. I used lower end Deore components on a 9 speed I just built my dad and it's a pretty "mushy" system compared to slx or xt that's a bit more. 9speed cassette with a cog removed is still just an 8 speed with different range and I'd still be having to buy new components.

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## dubya3 (May 1, 2016)

I'm picking up a 89 Stumpjumper on Thursday and I may just 1x this one instead. It looks like it already has cable stops if I'm not mistaken?









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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Why do you need that org8 adapter? why not just run full length housing for the brake?
> 
> And you can fit an 8 or 9 speed cassette (maybe 10) on a 7-speed hub, if you're willing to remove one of the cogs. If it's one of the cheaper cassettes, just remove the screws holding it all together, remove a cog and spacer, and throw it on the hub. Steel hubs only though. No alloy hubs allowed to this party.


I've been looking at tooth counts for everything from 7 to 10. It all depends on whatcher doing naturally, but tooth spacing is important, regardless.
Go from 8 to 9sp and you get this 11 to 12 jump. As a guy who uses a MTB as a street bike, just doesn't make sense. But that's me.


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## GrayJay (May 16, 2011)

LX crank looks to more like 94mm BCD than a 110mm, check before you order chainrings.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

dubya3 said:


> 9speed cassette with a cog removed is still just an 8 speed with different range and I'd still be having to buy new components.


It sounds like you want a nice 10-speed groupset, but your wheel's freehub isn't wide enough for a modern 10-speed cassette (basically, it's a mid 90's 7-speed cassette). If this is the case, you'll need a new wheelset or go with a shortened 9-speed cassette. If you go with new wheels that you listed, are they actually better than your old ones? if not, spend extra and get a good wheelset.

With the stock wheel, I'd get the nicest 9-speed shifter and derailure you can get (which it sounds like you're planning on buying a new drivetrain anyway). Buy a 9-speed cassette (11-34), disassemble the cassette and remove the 34T cog and spacer, throw the remaining cogs and spacers on the freehub. It'll still have 11-30T gearing with good spacing. You'll only have 8-gears instead of 9, but it will fit on a short freehub though.

I originally thought that shimano's 10-speed cassette would allow the removal of the last 36T cog, but it looks like they riveted the last couple cogs together instead of making them separate like the 9-speed stuff. I wouldn't be surprised if there isn't a cheaper 10-speed cassette out there that's bolted together though. Just have to find it.


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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

My Deore LX from the '90's is 110, not sure of the newer stuff


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## dubya3 (May 1, 2016)

watts888 said:


> It sounds like you want a nice 10-speed groupset, but your wheel's freehub isn't wide enough for a modern 10-speed cassette (basically, it's a mid 90's 7-speed cassette). If this is the case, you'll need a new wheelset or go with a shortened 9-speed cassette. If you go with new wheels that you listed, are they actually better than your old ones? if not, spend extra and get a good wheelset.
> 
> With the stock wheel, I'd get the nicest 9-speed shifter and derailure you can get (which it sounds like you're planning on buying a new drivetrain anyway). Buy a 9-speed cassette (11-34), disassemble the cassette and remove the 34T cog and spacer, throw the remaining cogs and spacers on the freehub. It'll still have 11-30T gearing with good spacing. You'll only have 8-gears instead of 9, but it will fit on a short freehub though.
> 
> I originally thought that shimano's 10-speed cassette would allow the removal of the last 36T cog, but it looks like they riveted the last couple cogs together instead of making them separate like the 9-speed stuff. I wouldn't be surprised if there isn't a cheaper 10-speed cassette out there that's bolted together though. Just have to find it.


Yes I was planning on buying that set of wheels for about $120. I'm sure the hubs will be as good, if not better, but will probably be substantially heavier based on the price of them.

I'd prefer to go 10spd but if I can get away with buying a full 9spd xt or slx package, you think I might be able to remove the 34t and get that cassette to fit on my stock 7spd freehub, or am I misunderstanding? And the 9 speed shifter/derailuer would be fine as long as I remember not to shift up into that 34t that was removed I assume?

Now that I'm picking up that pink/aqua 89 stumpy later this week I might convert that one instead but it's all original except the saddle so we'll see.

Thanks for the tips.

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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

dubya3 said:


> Yes I was planning on buying that set of wheels for about $120. I'm sure the hubs will be as good, if not better, but will probably be substantially heavier based on the price of them.
> 
> I'd prefer to go 10spd but if I can get away with buying a full 9spd xt or slx package, you think I might be able to remove the 34t and get that cassette to fit on my stock 7spd freehub, or am I misunderstanding? And the 9 speed shifter/derailuer would be fine as long as I remember not to shift up into that 34t that was removed I assume?
> 
> ...


Shimano 525 freehub is 8-9 speed. I don't know if a longer mounting bolt is required, but I'd be inclined to do so as they're available and cheap. That may be another avenue and a cost effective one if it works. Not sure if your wheel will take the re-dishing needed to accommodate more gears. All other things being equal, a 7 speed is a stronger wheel.


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## dubya3 (May 1, 2016)

OlMarin said:


> Shimano 525 freehub is 8-9 speed. I don't know if a longer mounting bolt is required, but I'd be inclined to do so as they're available and cheap. That may be another avenue and a cost effective one if it works. Not sure if your wheel will take the re-dishing needed to accommodate more gears. All other things being equal, a 7 speed is a stronger wheel.


I've been thinking I may as well just buy a new set of wheels since I can get the ones from MerlinCycle for about







$150 shipped with Deore hubs and I can use the old wheels (which are in surprisingly great condition) on a old Specialized frame i had powdercoated and is just hanging around. I didn't want to spend a lot on this bike but I may as well do it the way I want it if I do it at all.

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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

:thumbsup:
Lookin' forward to the thread on that one!!:yesnod:


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## dubya3 (May 1, 2016)

Well OlMarin, that one won't be so exciting since it'll be a parts bin bike, a beater for rainy days and my son to thrash on (when he gets a couple feet taller!). 

Not only is the '93 torn apart now but the '89 I picked up isn't as original as I expected so that one's going to be getting a face lift too. Another member pointed out to me the stem and bars didn't look correct and after finding a pic of that bike in a 1989 catalog, he was right. I don't really like the bars anyway, they seem to be geared more towards a cruiser or commuter rather than MTB. Since we're on that topic, do you recommend a new quill stem or should I try a 1" to 1 1/8" adapter with a modern 31.8 stem?

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## dubya3 (May 1, 2016)

By the way, Specialized customer support wasn't able to give an exact date for what I think is my '93 stumpy. Serial number, pictures and telling them it was a Japan made frame out of Tange Prestige wasn't enough to have it dated 









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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

dubya3 said:


> I don't really like the bars anyway, they seem to be geared more towards a cruiser or commuter rather than MTB. Since we're on that topic, do you recommend a new quill stem or should I try a 1" to 1 1/8" adapter with a modern 31.8 stem?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


Three most important things, 
1) Put the bar where it needs to be.
2) Put said bar where the rider is most comfortable
3) See 1 and 2


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