# Anybody able to open up a MiNewt USB?



## shuffles (Oct 7, 2008)

I recently purchased a MiNewt USB, which is a great light as it is, but I'd like to upgrade the emitter to a P4. The head on the USB version, however, is not held together with hex screws like the regular and X2 MiNewts. Rather it seems to be glued together.

Has anyone had success taking one apart without destroying it?


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## shuffles (Oct 7, 2008)

OK, so I received the new SSC P4 U bin LED from DX yesterday; that thing's really small. I'm gonna have to use some reading glasses to solder it in.

I'm going to try to hit the MiNewt with a hairdryer for a few minutes, and then try to pull the head apart. I'll let you know how it goes.

On another subject, what do you recommend for camera settings to do beamshots for comparison? I have an older Nikon digital that does not do manual exposure settings, as well as a Nikon D90 film camera. Thanks for any suggestions.


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

How did you get on with the hairdryer method? 

This is the exposure parameters used for the official MTBR light shootout. 

ISO – 100
Exposure – 6 seconds
Aperture – F4.0
Focus – Manual
White Balance - Daylight

Obviously there is nothing one can do with the white balance when shooting film.


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## shuffles (Oct 7, 2008)

*Anybody able to open up a MiNewt USB? - Done*

OK, so I got it done last night. Opening the case was much easier than I thought, I didn't even heat it. Just put the back end in a vice covered with leather, and gripped the front end in channel lock pliers, also covered in leather. Facing the front of the light, it just takes a slight clockwise turn (maybe 1/8 inch) of the front half of the MiNewt to release the glue holding it in the slot/channel. In fact, it came open so fast that the lens, reflector, and o-rings came out before I was ready. I though I'd broken it, but it turns out that's the way the head goes together.

It was a very easy solder job, a little super glue on the channel, and twist it back together. Voila.

I had an opportunity to do it while it was still daylight, so I didn't get before and after beamshots. <- stupid, I know. But I think it's brighter than it was, although it may have more of a hot spot in the center than it did before. That may be because I didn't get the reflector in the right place? (But I can't figure out how else it might go together)

Back of light after opening. You can kind of see the channel that the tab in the front half slips into:









Here is another view (sorry about the crappy focus on my old Nikon digital):









Here is the board the emitter is mounted on after slipping it out of the back end of the head:









And here is the inside of the front half of the head. Again, you can sort of see the tabs (there are three) that slip into the back end of the head:









I really do wish that I would have been more patient and gotten beamshots before and after, but ...


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## DukeNeverwinter (May 6, 2006)

any news on the upgrade?


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## shuffles (Oct 7, 2008)

Yeah, the post just above yours describes it. It was very easy, and it's definitely brighter than the original, so I'm happy that I did it. 

I do wish that I had been more patient and waited a day longer so that I could have gotten before and after beamshots done, but I got a window of time to do the upgrade and it was before dark, so ...


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## DukeNeverwinter (May 6, 2006)

shiffles can you repost to two last pictures. they no longer show up.


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## shuffles (Oct 7, 2008)

First:









Second:


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## black_taco (Apr 12, 2005)

Warning: I am kind of a newbie to the LED lingo, how much more light output comes from the new emitter do you think?....about as bright as an .X2? What was the old LED's specs compared to the new one?


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## shuffles (Oct 7, 2008)

It's brighter than my friend's X2.


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## cilantro13 (Jun 17, 2008)

*Lead wires*

Shuffles:

I just got my MiNewt USB and have an extra couple of SSC P4 stars laying around... you know where this is going...

Because I suck at soldering, just wondering how much lead there is on the wire attached to the stock star before I tear into mine. What about battery life with your upgrade?

Thanks for the pics and the how-to. I don't know if I would venture otherwise (who are we kidding, yes I would...).


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## black_taco (Apr 12, 2005)

Shuffles-
As warned above I am a newbie when it comes to LED terminology. Where would I buy the upgrade at? How fast are LEDs improving ie how often could a guy upgrade his lighting systems? All of this DYI LED technology is really getting interesting to me. Please enlighten me!


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## cilantro13 (Jun 17, 2008)

*Light output*

Somebody can correct me if I am wrong. The Minewt mini USB is rated on the packaging at 110 lumens. The SSC P4 at 1A is around 170 lumens.

With the SSC P4, it looks like you get about 50% more light over the Minewt mini USB, which I would say is fairly accurate comparing my Minewt mini USB to a spot SSC P4 emitter I have.

Apparently the CREE Q5's output ~230 lumens at 1A. And there are new Cree LEDs (R series) that should significantly beat the Q5's. Near as I can tell, deal extreme only has R2's.

Does anybody know if the R4's or R5's are available at a reasonable price yet?


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## cilantro13 (Jun 17, 2008)

*Ssc P4*

My bad -- just looking at the SSC website, the SSC P4 is rated at 240 lumens, the Cree P4 is rated at 170 lumens.

http://www.seoulsemicon.com/en/product/prd/zpowerLEDp4.asp

Anybody know if the 240lm figure is accurate?


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## shuffles (Oct 7, 2008)

cilantro13 said:


> Shuffles:
> 
> I just got my MiNewt USB and have an extra couple of SSC P4 stars laying around... you know where this is going...
> 
> ...


cilantro13,

When you open up the head, the whole cable and emitter come right out of the head, so it's really easy to work on.










Battery life is the same as the old emitter. And I was out this morning with my friend who has the .X2 and riding side by side, the upgraded MiNewt USB was significantly brighter.

Black Taco: I used this emitter.


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## cilantro13 (Jun 17, 2008)

*Thanks*

That helps. Only, it looks like it is, as you link, necessary to have the emitter -- not the star. It looks like I will have to buy some emitters if I am going to upgrade.


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## black_taco (Apr 12, 2005)

So it is a $5.12 upgrade?! Is that all you need?! So I assume that the new emitter pulls the same amount of current just runs more efficiently then in order for it to be brighter? Is there any more heat being developed? And does the bin number or letter mean? Sorry for so many questions.


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## shuffles (Oct 7, 2008)

Cilantro - I'd think that you could just remove (unsolder) the emitter from the star you have, couldn't you?

black_taco - yep. All you need is the emitter and a dab of some thermal paste onto the back of the new emitter before reassembling.

Others have answered the bin question better than I could; you might try searching on that.


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## cilantro13 (Jun 17, 2008)

*$5.12 Upgrade*

Black_Taco:

Yep. That and a soldering iron, solder, and a steady hand.

The LED's are rated by the amount of amperage they need. Most LEDs in these lights are rated up 1A. As long as they have the requisite voltage, which most do (I think the SSC P4's need >3.5V) and you can draw 1A of power from your battery for an LED that works on 1A, they will work.

I am not an electrical engineer, so these are the basics as I understand them from people who know more than me.


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## Beemer2 (Dec 29, 2005)

*Minewt X2 light color*

Maybe someone can tell me something, I have a Minewt X2 which is bright in real darkness but the really blue color does not increase my confidence. I am buying another light for the helmet but I want something a little more white, does this upgrade improve the color of the light and what would you think is a good second light that is more white? I only ride the streets at night, too old for dirt after dark, but I really need the light.

Thanks,


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Beemer2 said:


> Maybe someone can tell me something, I have a Minewt X2 which is bright in real darkness but the really blue color does not increase my confidence. I am buying another light for the helmet but I want something a little more white, does this upgrade improve the color of the light and what would you think is a good second light that is more white? I only ride the streets at night, too old for dirt after dark, but I really need the light.
> 
> Thanks,


Yeah the Minewt is very blue. LEDs are available in different tints. The bluer ones put out more lumens, are more noticable in traffic but dont light up the road as well. In general warm white which is somewhat yellower is better for bikes as it lights up objects on the trail better, giving better definition.

For crees WH tint is popular.









More mindboggling data here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=156772

If you get a secondary light its really nice to have the same tint, so they blend in together.


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## cilantro13 (Jun 17, 2008)

*MiNewt Mini and LED stars*

Pulled apart my MiNewt Mini USB last night to see if I could install a star. Three things I learned:

1. Stars won't work. The LED in the MMU is shaped like a round star with a 20mm diameter common to many stars, BUT... the printed circuit board in the MMU has a hole through the center right over where the LED sits, through this hole a protuberance from the heat sink directly articulates with the LED.

After pulling everything out, I tried to put a star in and get everything put back together. No such luck. That hole in the stock PCB is necessary to make everything fit.

Thus, if you want to upgrade you have to buy a the emitter alone.

2. Removing the stock emitter wasn't difficult, but getting it back on so as to be flush with the heat sink was. I am not an expert solderer (actually I suck at it and constantly worry about burning myself). In the end, I remounted the stock emitter, couldn't get it flush, and heaped on the back of the emitter 5X more thermal paste than I think I needed. I hope that works to keep the emitter cool.

3. Undoing the MMU caused my case to crack at one of the grooves. It wasn't a problem when I put it all together, just annoying just the same.

Just some thoughts for anybody thinking of this upgrade. I just upgraded a pair of Blackburn X8's ($130 from JensonUSA), and it was much easier.

I am ordering a couple of emitters. Shuffles -- I took before pics and will post the after ones in a couple weeks when my emitters finally arrive.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

Just a heads up - I spoke with Nite Rider and they were very interested in hearing about this upgrade so I e-mailed them the link. Maybe they'll upgrade their stuff.

You are really getting same run time?


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## cilantro13 (Jun 17, 2008)

shuffles said:


> Cilantro - I'd think that you could just remove (unsolder) the emitter from the star you have, couldn't you?


Actually no. I tried. I couldn't get the emitter off the stars I bought from DealExtreme. Even after totally destroying the emitter in the process, I still couldn't get it off. Sigh.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

gticlay said:


> Just a heads up - I spoke with Nite Rider and they were very interested in hearing about this upgrade so I e-mailed them the link. Maybe they'll upgrade their stuff.
> 
> You are really getting same run time?


The runtime will be the same. The LEDs are more efficient at converting power to light. You might actually get a little more runtime if the newer LED has a lower Vf.

Maybe nightrider they can tell us why they aren't putting U bin in their lights when its only a few dollars difference.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

znomit said:


> The runtime will be the same. The LEDs are more efficient at converting power to light. You might actually get a little more runtime if the newer LED has a lower Vf.
> 
> Maybe nightrider they can tell us why they aren't putting U bin in their lights when its only a few dollars difference.


So you've done the conversion above and no difference?


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

gticlay said:


> So you've done the conversion above and no difference?


No, I had a minewtx2 but didn't bother upgrading because it was bright enough for a secondary light. I have upgraded my cateye el530 which uses the same type of LED with very good results.
See this thread on CPF


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## PCC (Sep 5, 2005)

I just performed this mod on my Mini-USB.

So far, it seems brighter but I won't know until I have used it on my commute tomorrow evening.

Here are a few pictures.


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## Rock (Jan 13, 2004)

*I've done it...*

I got a Minewt Mini USB Plus for Christmas, bought another one (non-plus) to have a pair. Ordered the upgraded SSC Seoul P4 (U-bin) SW0 Bare Emitter ZPOWER from Deal Extreme.

The light opened up easily, the soldering was straight forward. The light output.....sorta brighter, alittle..?? It's a different color, less blue. Since I had 2, I was able to compare one "upgraded" one not. Not significant in the actual light output. No pics, sorry.

Worth the $10 for the upgrade? Sure, why not. It was easy

Maybe I'll try charging one battery to full(er), (I've got an hour from full charge) and not the other to see if maybe that makes any difference.
Bottom line: Not overwelmed, but not a step backwards.

Rock


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## black_taco (Apr 12, 2005)

Thanks Rock and good write up. I like the fact the new emitter is less blue as you said. Mine tends to clash with my bar mounted Trinewt which is a brighter white so the light doesn't blend the best. I have not cracked up Mini USB open yet, but was getting the correct polarity an issue?


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## PCC (Sep 5, 2005)

You know, after using this light with the "upgraded" emitter I will admit that it was a total waste of time. Either that or DX sold me some SSC P4s that are not U-bin. I ended up buying a used Minewt head from eBay, the one with a Luxeon emitter in it. I swapped the original emitter from the Mini-USB into it then wired it up to work with the Mini-USB battery. End result? The original Mini-USB head with the "upgrade" has a floodier beam while the Minewt with the emitter from the Mini-USB has a tighter spot beam. Brightness? About the same, doing a bounce test and some other non-scientific tests.

I will say that the SSC P4 emitters that I got are really bright compared to the Luxeon emitters that I have swapped out so I know that they're a decent bin. I just think that either they're not U-bins or the Mini-USB already has U-bins in them to begin with.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

Well, after hearing from a few of you, I won't be upgrading mine. I'm pretty disappointed in the Mini-USB light overall and wish I had bought a different light.


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## wheelerfreak (Jul 3, 2007)

gticlay said:


> Well, after hearing from a few of you, I won't be upgrading mine. I'm pretty disappointed in the Mini-USB light overall and wish I had bought a different light.


 I did the upgrade using the ssc p4 u bin emitter on a MiNewt USB and the light is very obviously brighter than factory. It's the same color and seems to have the same run time, but much brighter. I don't have any beam shot to provide. When commuting with my wife who is using a cygolight both our lights were about the same brightness prior to the mode. After the mod the MiNewt washes hers out and is much better for getting noticed.

I've since moved the Minewt to a helmet mount and am now using a DIY 900 Lumen bar light:thumbsup:


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## black_taco (Apr 12, 2005)

Can someone please tell me where this upgrade would be located in terms of light frequency by use of the above light chart? Where would the Trinewt be located in terms of light frequency? I have a Trinewt on my bars and a mini on my helmet and have noticed that the light does not blend as well as I would like, Thanks!


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## cilantro13 (Jun 17, 2008)

cilantro13 said:


> Somebody can correct me if I am wrong. The Minewt mini USB is rated on the packaging at 110 lumens. The SSC P4 at 1A is around 170 lumens.
> 
> With the SSC P4, it looks like you get about 50% more light over the Minewt mini USB, which I would say is fairly accurate comparing my Minewt mini USB to a spot SSC P4 emitter I have.
> 
> ...


If I had to eyeball it, I would guess that about 25% to 50% more light output is what I got when I swapped out the LED's.


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## b3rnard (Jul 1, 2007)

*Stock vs. upgraded light shots*

So, my curiosity got the better of me, and ordered the LEDs from DX.

There's noticeable difference in the light beams, but not much greater than the stock LED.

- brighter and more spread
- whiter and more intense than stock

For $4.92 it was a nice step up. The way the economy is going, you cannot beat this upgrade no matter how you do the math :thumbsup:

Will I do it again, eh, may be - I just broke the warranty on one of my MiNewts. I might do it when the warranty coverage is done 

Below are shots of the lights side by side - one is stock, one is the upgraded LED. Can you tell which one?










Details of the shot:
17-70 mm macro lens @ 38mm FL
ISO: 110
White Balance: Day Light
Exposure: Manual @ 6 sec
Distance to object in focus: 15 feet (The MiNewts were focused with the same distance - tape measure on the shot).
Lights: Handlebar mounted


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

Anyone want one of these cheap?? PM me.


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## Hfactor (Nov 22, 2005)

What's the brightest LED that can be put into the MiNewt USB? Can a P7 go in?


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## cilantro13 (Jun 17, 2008)

Nope. The P7 requires a different driving amperage than the battery for the MiNewt provides. You would have to have a different battery.


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## cilantro13 (Jun 17, 2008)

You should be able to use a Cree R2, though -- pretty much any LED that is driven up to 1A.


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## Hfactor (Nov 22, 2005)

So the SSC P4 U bin LED is the hottest diode I can put in the MiNewt USB? And it's noticeably brighter?


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## Hfactor (Nov 22, 2005)

BTW, I just ordered the MagicShine MJ-808, so I know the MiNewt is gonna look really dim after it arrives. Just want to maximize output of the MiNewt where possible...


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## cilantro13 (Jun 17, 2008)

For the MiNewt, a Cree R2 is a little brighter than the SSC P4.

My buddy just tested his Magic Shines out last week on a night ride. I have to admit I was impressed. A lot of bang for the buck, even if I doubt the claims made about total brightness, the P7'a were outputting at least 500 lumens each, maybe more. More importantly, however, the lights have pretty good optics, with a nice center spot that has quite a bit of splash light like a flood might have.


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## dsjc (May 14, 2007)

In my experience, the P4-U is marginally brighter than the stock emitter, not substantially brighter, but I got a better tint with the change which made it worth the $5 and 30 minute operation.


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## Homebrew (Jan 2, 2004)

Hfactor said:


> So the SSC P4 U bin LED is the hottest diode I can put in the MiNewt USB? And it's noticeably brighter?


SSC has a U2-bin that's one step up from the U-bin. In another thread StevelKnivel mentioned running an MC-E in a Minewt (thread _*here*_ at the bottom). Might need a new optic for that one too. Sounded interesting though. Got me thinking about a double MC-E in my U-bin P4 modded Double Shot. The MC-E M-bin stars are down to about $15 each from Cutter.


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