# New MRP G2 Mini SL...redesigned and 30% lighter



## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

Building the new M-9 and came across this MRP which is 30% lighter...has anyone else tried this MRP out...I just ordered one

claims are 30% lighter, more compact, lower profile upper guide reduces noise from chain slap while improving fit on bikes that have tight clearance tolerances with frame members. The lower guide is more compact, lighter and stronger than previous models. Our patented skid is tapered and relieved in multiple areas to provide the lightest, most durable, and best fitting bash guard possible. (copied off chain reaction)


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## DeadlyStryker (Feb 12, 2005)

Whats a nice piece of art like that cost these days, Bob?


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## ruralrider528 (Nov 8, 2008)

That is going on my new 951   Looking forward to seeing how diffrent the 951 is from my 04 spec bighit.

The guide is about 150$ direct from mrp


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

DeadlyStryker said:


> Whats a nice piece of art like that cost these days, Bob?


google it and it is a little less then 120

fricken awesome


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## Cable0guy (Jun 19, 2007)

Not a fan of the new G2. My friend's couldn't take a rock strike and broke. Less than a week old. Not only that, now that the roller is on the taco, you couldn't simply take the taco off and ride the rest of the day either. I think MRP took too much weight off and make it pretty weak.

I had the previous G2, and that was more bombproof. Even with my penchant for finding rocks and hitting them.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Cable0guy said:


> Not a fan of the new G2. My friend's couldn't take a rock strike and broke. Less than a week old. Not only that, now that the roller is on the taco, you couldn't simply take the taco off and ride the rest of the day either. I think MRP took too much weight off and make it pretty weak.
> 
> I had the previous G2, and that was more bombproof. Even with my penchant for finding rocks and hitting them.


Interesting. Sorry your friend had a bad experience. I suppose if you hit a rock hard enough you could break the skid, regardless of how old it is. He should've contacted the warranty guy, he's pretty fair. He may not give away the part, but taking into account that he just bought it, and that MRP wants people stoked on the product, he probably would work him a pretty sweet deal.

Before I even worked for MRP, they would provide me with prototypes to test, so I've been riding the G2SL for well over a year and haven't broken a single part (well, early one I broke one of the captive slider nuts, but b/c of that they redesigned it). I've found it to be pretty "bombproof", certainly every bit as strong as the original G2. The majority of failures I see, and I mean the VAST majority, are caused by solvent based lubricants which absolutely destroy the plastic. As a good rule of thumb, steer clear of lubes with "Dry" in the name. Wax based lubes are generally safe and I've had good luck with them in a variety of conditions.

Cheers

Enjoy your guide SMT.:thumbsup:


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## OS cuda' (Aug 10, 2005)

I just just put the g2 sl on my spec enduro, no complaints so far but then again I haven't ridden anything to gnarly since I got it. Super easy to install, love the way it looks and it's feather light so I hope it can take some abuse. I paid 130 at universal cycles


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## Dwdrums00 (Jul 8, 2006)

I hate to say it but the G2 mini SL is not a robust product by any stretch of the imagination. In my experience, the parts on the guide are worthless. The lower roller guide broke on mine and my buddies G2 mini SL within two rides. The trails we were riding on were smooth and there was no visible sign of rock impact. On the other hand, I must praise MRP's customer service for stepping up and replacing the part. Unfortunately it took almost 2 weeks to receive the replacement.
FYI, my Lg1+ has been going strong for 1.5 years without one issue. I will not be purchasing any MRP products in the near future.


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## hozzerr1 (Feb 26, 2005)

yeah boyyyyyyyy!

Thanks for bringing this one up Bob. 

I just ordered one from my LBS and will be throwing this one on my new EME- NUEVE.


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

hozzerr1 said:


> yeah boyyyyyyyy!
> 
> Thanks for bringing this one up Bob.
> 
> *I just ordered one from my LBS* and will be throwing this one on my new EME- NUEVE.


Bike Shack 
very downhill friendly shop
6672 B Santa Susanna Pass Rd
Simi Valley
805-285-0592
805-551-5502 cell


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

I've been running the 1st edition MRP Mini-G2 since it first came out and it's been rock solid. Over the 1.5 year span I did have to replace the roller wheel and the little plate that goes over it but it was a minor issue that MRP was very fair about taking care of. I also replaced my skid plate due to wear and my taco has a bend in it from taking a couple of pretty harsh direct hits. Overall I've been very happy with it and I've recommended them to many of my friends. I recently installed the newer BB mount version on my wife's bike and it's been rock solid so far. Highly recommended.


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## rep_1969 (Mar 25, 2004)

Looks pretty whimpy.


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## PapaSmurf99 (Sep 13, 2010)

Weight Weeny.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

rep_1969 said:


> Looks pretty whimpy.


Did you mean flexy? We'll be sure to add moar shims to next years version for ya.


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## tuumbaq (Oct 6, 2005)

anything that simply slips between the frame and BB WILL move on first impact which, to me would be VERY annoying...

I too heard of a few people breaking their rather easily...On my trailbike , maybe, for my DH ,I think I'll pass on this one.


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## Dougie (Aug 29, 2004)

tuumbaq said:


> anything that simply slips between the frame and BB WILL move on first impact which, to me would be VERY annoying...


Pretty sure they make it in ISCG varieties as well.


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## DeanH (Jan 9, 2008)

I am replacing my G2 mini with this, when it breaks, but so far, all i had to do was regrease the roller wheel (pulleywheel?)


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

I mounted a mini G2 SL on my knolly delirium, a dozen rides with some direct strikes and it is still OK.


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## rep_1969 (Mar 25, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> Did you mean flexy? We'll be sure to add moar shims to next years version for ya.


I stand corrected. :thumbsup:


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

woodyak said:


> I've been running the 1st edition MRP Mini-G2 since it first came out and it's been rock solid. Over the 1.5 year span I did have to replace the roller wheel and the little plate that goes over it but it was a minor issue that MRP was very fair about taking care of. I also replaced my skid plate due to wear and my taco has a bend in it from taking a couple of pretty harsh direct hits. Overall I've been very happy with it and I've recommended them to many of my friends. I recently installed the newer BB mount version on my wife's bike and it's been rock solid so far. Highly recommended.


been riding my G2 mini for over a year and my taco has many deep gouges (Flyin Monkey) and it still is in great shape


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

Lopes guide = FTW


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

Guy.Ford said:


> Lopes guide = FTW


that is the GL model.....I think


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## SlackBoy (Mar 7, 2008)

NoahColorado said:


> Interesting. Sorry your friend had a bad experience. I suppose if you hit a rock hard enough you could break the skid, regardless of how old it is. He should've contacted the warranty guy, he's pretty fair. He may not give away the part, but taking into account that he just bought it, and that MRP wants people stoked on the product, he probably would work him a pretty sweet deal.
> 
> Before I even worked for MRP, they would provide me with prototypes to test, so I've been riding the G2SL for well over a year and haven't broken a single part (well, early one I broke one of the captive slider nuts, but b/c of that they redesigned it). I've found it to be pretty "bombproof", certainly every bit as strong as the original G2. The majority of failures I see, and I mean the VAST majority, are caused by solvent based lubricants which absolutely destroy the plastic. As a good rule of thumb, steer clear of lubes with "Dry" in the name. Wax based lubes are generally safe and I've had good luck with them in a variety of conditions.
> 
> ...


I dunno, I've been thru 4 lower guide shields this year. Other than that tho, it's been mint. And when they have broken the've left a tiny lil circle of plastic behind enabling the lower pully to stay in place so I never actually lost my chain at all.
And no over torquing either, after the first one broke, all consequent ones got a dab of locktite and the bolt lightly sipped up, still broke the same way.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

SlackBoy said:


> I dunno, I've been thru 4 lower guide shields this year.


What kind of lube are you using? Any cleaning products?

That's a lot of failures of the same part, something must be causing it.


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> What kind of lube are you using? Any cleaning products?
> 
> That's a lot of failures of the same part, something must be causing it.


I like Pedros dry lube...what do you guys recommend....I run pretty much dry chains because it is so dusty...any thoughts or brands??


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## SlackBoy (Mar 7, 2008)

NoahColorado said:


> What kind of lube are you using? Any cleaning products?
> 
> That's a lot of failures of the same part, something must be causing it.


Ya Rocks are

Finish line wet, and fenwicks wash which is non solvent.
Same as on many other bikes and guides.

I personally think that the lower guide plate sits either a fraction proud, or bang on the line of the taco and when bouncing off rocks they slide up/along the taco and smash off the lower guide plate


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

SHIVER ME TIMBERS said:


> I like Pedros dry lube...what do you guys recommend....I run pretty much dry chains because it is so dusty...any thoughts or brands??


I use Boeshield T-9 in drip bottle, the spray version has a butane propellant which can cause damage. It's really dusty here too and it seems to work well, stay clean. I've also used Pedro's Synlube, which does a great job too. And my latest is Chain-L which I really like, a little dirty, but quiet.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

SlackBoy said:


> Ya Rocks are
> 
> Finish line wet, and fenwicks wash which is non solvent.
> Same as on many other bikes and guides.
> ...


Well let me know if you'd like to try a different guide, I want you to be happy with the product. We'll have the new S4 available at the end of the month (the very end) if you want a guide with a tradition bash guard. :thumbsup:


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

This one's even lighter....








carbon haters, start your engines.....


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## berzerker (Mar 7, 2007)

*too light...*

...and nowhere near storng enough. My Session came with one, went through 3 skid plates and two uppers in a matter of a few months. They're definitely not made for smashing rocks. Next bike I'm going old-school aluminum chainring sandwich type. Some things just can't be made any lighter without comprimising strength.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

berzerker said:


> They're definitely not made for smashing rocks..


Correct, that's not what they're made for. We design them to protect your drivetrain from damage caused by rocks, logs, etc., but not specifically to inflict damage to rocks.


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> Correct, that's not what they're made for. We design them to protect your drivetrain from damage caused by rocks, logs, etc., but not specifically to inflict damage to rocks.


TOO FUNNY


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> I use Boeshield T-9 in drip bottle, the spray version has a butane propellant which can cause damage. It's really dusty here too and it seems to work well, stay clean. I've also used Pedro's Synlube, which does a great job too. And my latest is Chain-L which I really like, a little dirty, but quiet.


Will the pedros dry lube be fine to use


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> This one's even lighter....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


thanks...after I order mine

how much lighter compared to the regular Mini GL??


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

I don't know. Terrible answer I know, but lube makers generally don't say what's in their lubes. We could probably call them up tomorrow and ask, I don't see that lube on their site anymore.

I suspect that most "dry" lubes are basically solvents coupled with PTFE or similar, and solvents KILL polycarbonate. In the past we've basically said "do not use with solvent based lube" in the instructions of our guides, I want to make that more known and let folks know which lubes are copacetic - that's proving to be a pretty hard task though with so many lubes on the market. We'll keep working at it.


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## berzerker (Mar 7, 2007)

NoahColorado said:


> Correct, that's not what they're made for. We design them to protect your drivetrain from damage caused by rocks, logs, etc., but not specifically to inflict damage to rocks.


I wasn't even trying :thumbsup: Phoenix DH trails at South Mountain can be pretty unforgiving, and I'm not the most fluid of riders


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## stunzeed (Mar 17, 2007)

Has anyone installed one yet on the 951? Do you know if I need the regular or wide?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Brand new 951 or previous gen? I think they've made some revisions right?


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## stunzeed (Mar 17, 2007)

previous gen


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

We made a special original G2 for the _original_ 951 where the ISCG05 holes were rotated, but the angle of the guide was the same.

Pretty certain there are no issues with the G2SL on either the orignal 951 or the 2011. Intense specs the G2SL in their build kits. But a call to Intense might be in order.

Def. don't need the what we call the "wide-angle", that's for bikes like Canfield and K-9 with idler pulleys.


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## stunzeed (Mar 17, 2007)

NoahColorado said:


> We made a special original G2 for the _original_ 951 where the ISCG05 holes were rotated, but the angle of the guide was the same.
> 
> Pretty certain there are no issues with the G2SL on either the orignal 951 or the 2011. Intense specs the G2SL in their build kits. But a call to Intense might be in order.
> 
> Def. don't need the what we call the "wide-angle", that's for bikes like Canfield and K-9 with idler pulleys.


Is the original rotated version available for sale?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

We actually shipped the remainder of our stock to Intense yesterday, so they've got 'em.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

SHIVER ME TIMBERS said:


> thanks...after I order mine
> 
> how much lighter compared to the regular Mini GL??


~34g, all other parts are the same so that weight savings is purely in the backplate. The Mini G2 SL Carbon ISCG weighed in at ~140g IIRC. :thumbsup:


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

NoahColorado said:


> ~34g, all other parts are the same so that weight savings is purely in the backplate. The Mini G2 SL Carbon ISCG weighed in at ~140g IIRC. :thumbsup:


Are those in stock now?


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

For 34 grams get the non carbon


gticlay said:


> Are those in stock now?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

We're currently testing them, no ETA as of yet. :thumbsup:


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

G2 SL Mini has been great on my trailbike. Many rides and quite a few rock hits and it's doing fine. I try not to just bash into stuff though, I haven't hit anything REALLY hard. When I do I consider it a MISTAKE and expect to possibly break something.


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## russthedog (Oct 11, 2006)

hi guys, hopefully this hasnt been asked elsewhere - i couldnt find it anywhere. is the MRP Mini G2 SL Skid Plate interchangeable with the standard G2 SL? I wouldnt mind getting some small increase in clearance


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

russthedog said:


> hi guys, hopefully this hasnt been asked elsewhere - i couldnt find it anywhere. is the MRP Mini G2 SL Skid Plate interchangeable with the standard G2 SL? I wouldnt mind getting some small increase in clearance


call MRP.. just to make sure just call...MRP guys are really helpful:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

russthedog said:


> hi guys, hopefully this hasnt been asked elsewhere - i couldnt find it anywhere. is the MRP Mini G2 SL Skid Plate interchangeable with the standard G2 SL? I wouldnt mind getting some small increase in clearance


No, only the lower and upper guides, pulleys, and hardware are interchangeable between the two. The backplate and skid are unique to each.

Cheers


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## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

SMT....I have ridden with one for a little over 2 months. 15mm more clearance. I have it set up with a 32 t front ring, 9-26 in the back. Canfield micro drive 9t hub works so well with this !


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

gollub01 said:


> SMT....I have ridden with one for a little over 2 months. 15mm more clearance. I have it set up with a 32 t front ring, 9-26 in the back. Canfield micro drive 9t hub works so well with this !


awesome product...low low weight and it just works...I pound mine on rocks all the time. I have been riding with MRP since 2002...there company rocks !!!love the customer service they provide


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## KAZU (Aug 10, 2011)

tuumbaq said:


> anything that simply slips between the frame and BB WILL move on first impact which, to me would be VERY annoying...
> 
> I too heard of a few people breaking their rather easily...On my trailbike , maybe, for my DH ,I think I'll pass on this one.


I have been smashing mine against logs for a while now and it hasn't moved at all.

This is my review of my experiences with the G2 Mini from a while ago.

Since I didn't see anybody from Straight line talking up their stuff, which I'm sure is just fine, I thought I would give MRP a try. I was settled on the S4, however, by chance, I walked into a bike store that unfortunately was going out of business.

Fortunate for me they had all their merchandise wicked cheap. I got a bunch of stuff including the G2.

I thought for the price I got it for might as well give it a shot, maybe I'll like it.

I have five days on it and for me it was a pretty hard five days on it.



The bad:

First, I was not impressed with the finish of the product the machined edges are really sharp, like cut you open sharp, I do quite a bit of machining and that bothers me, just get the rounded bit for the extra $50 and make it smooth.

Second, the composite looks and feels really brittle. If they used a softer compound it would do wonders for their product. Spend the extra money on the plastic, with nylotron you would have a completely silent and self lubricating product. This is the part that they need to focus on.

The plastic has grind marks on it to smooth out the injection site. If they used UHMW or delrin or nylatron they can fire the guy that does the grinding and make up the cost by replacing him with a guy with cutters.

The good:

Last week did two days of XC with it installed, worked flawlessly.

On the bike stand in from the middle gear to the highest gear it rubs the upper chain retainer and it makes noise.

On the trail I couldn't hear it over my awesomeness.

No really it either blends with the load on the gears or the chain being tight and under load makes a difference.

This weekend I did 3 days of lift riding and it was moist out, not raining but sloppy from the snow melt off.

The MRP G2 worked great.

I have no complaints about it's performance. I did install the orings like suggested and the only time I could hear it was in the super rocky sections where I assume the chain is slapping the top of the top guide.

I did the biggest drop I've ever done this weekend and the chain stayed on and I didn't hear it, but I probably didn't hear it over the terror I was experiencing.

It cleared the mud and was not louder than any of my other components on the bike.



To summarize:

So far I'm really happy with it, but what worries me is that I never really smacked it off of anything going at speed. There is nothing thus far that indicated the product will fail, but only time will tell. So far I recommend it.


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

KAZU said:


> So far I'm really happy with it, but what worries me is that I never really smacked it off of anything going at speed. There is nothing thus far that indicated the product will fail, but only time will tell. So far I recommend it.


Just wait a while...

Mine was fine at first, but IMO, a bb-mount guide with a taco is retarded. It does move when you hit things with it. Mine hit the chainstay and bent the backplate (G2 mini on the trailbike)

The full size G2 on my dh bike bent over sideways.

Lower guides are easy to break, very poorly designed, and stupid-expensive for what they are.

I cannot recommend MRP guides anymore until they make some improvements.

A friend recently installed a Straitline Silent Guide, after riding his bike, this is the guide I would go with.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

davec113 said:


> Just wait a while...
> 
> Mine was fine at first, but IMO, a bb-mount guide with a taco is retarded. It does move when you hit things with it. Mine hit the chainstay and bent the backplate (G2 mini on the trailbike)
> 
> The full size G2 on my dh bike bent over sideways.


Sorry you had a bad experience, though we appreciate the feedback.

I'm curious why you purchased a G2 BB-mount guide if you thought they were flawed - we make other designs as well (like the S4) that use a traditional crank-mounted bash guard and thus are less likely to rotate. We wish every bike had ISCG tabs, but unfortunately they don't (some don't even have thread-in BB's either, so mounting ANY appropriate chain guide becomes nearly impossible). We do think BB mounting is perfectly fine for "skid" style guides though and when tightened down appropriately slippage is rare - but again, we offer other style guides.

I'm sorry your backplate bent on your DH rig, but it must have been a very serious hit to bend a 5mm thick aluminum plate. Was it the G2 Steel? The lower-priced steel models aren't as stiff - steel is more pliable than aluminum (but also more malleable so you can bend them back easier than alloy - I think I used those words right). We offer the G2 series at several price-points ($90, $150, and $220) so you can decide what balance of price, weight, and durability you'd prefer.

As for the lower guides, we've made a few design changes that were implemented early on in G2 SL production. Anyone who has any issues is strongly encouraged to contact us (info -at - mrpbike.com). I've had several bikes with G2 and G2SL guides (I was even one of the first to have the pre-production G2 SL on my bike for testing before I worked for MRP) and have only ever broken one lower guide. That instance was during a crash though and the guide wasn't nearly as mangled as I was.

Cheers :thumbsup:


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

NoahColorado said:


> Sorry you had a bad experience, though we appreciate the feedback.
> 
> *I'm curious why you purchased a G2 BB-mount guide if you thought they were flawed* - we make other designs as well (like the S4) that use a traditional crank-mounted bash guard and thus are less likely to rotate. We wish every bike had ISCG tabs, but unfortunately they don't (some don't even have thread-in BB's either, so mounting ANY appropriate chain guide becomes nearly impossible). We do think BB mounting is perfectly fine for "skid" style guides though and when tightened down appropriately slippage is rare - but again, we offer other style guides.
> 
> ...


Yeah... live and learn I guess. It is a big problem that my frame does not have iscg tabs, and I'll never buy another bike that does not have them. My trailbike is a '09 Remedy. I think even a guide with a bashguard will move, but it'll take hitting the lower guide rather than the bash plate. Chainlove was blowing out Sunline guides with spring-loaded lower guide arms for $30, so I'm trying that. It's heavier than the g2 mini but if the spring loaded arm keeps the guide from rotating it'll be worth it. Anyway, after owning a bb mount g2 mini, I wish I would have bought a guide with a bashguard.

My DH bike is a Session 88, the chainguide was well used for a couple full seasons and just folded over sideways. It was whatever guide comes stock on the bike. I broke one lower guide on the dh bike, one on the trailbike.

If you saw the thread I started on chainguides on ridemonkey dh, I do have quite a few opinions on how to improve the g2. There are improvements that could be made across the board, from the top guide, backplate and lower... Mine performed great when new but didn't last as long as I'd like and replacement lower guides are far too expensive.

- Top guide needs to be adjustable in-out. Chain has hit top guide on both my bikes in the largest cog, eventually wearing into the top guide.

- backplate needs to be stiffer in the in-out direction, both of mine bent. 7075 alum or stiffening ribs would help

-Bottom guide is fastened to the backplate using insubstantial hardware and threadlocker. A bolt with a safety nut slotted into the backplate to keep it from rotating (the kind with the nylon thread locker) would be a huge improvement.

- Bottom guide needs to be molded with a metal sleeve where the bolt goes through so it is not as sensitive to torque, would make the guide much more robust. It's VERY easy to crack the $14 + shipping lower guide by applying only slightly too much torque

-Roller gets too much crap in the bearing, needs to be protected from dirt better. They seize up if you don't make it a point to clean them regularly. The sliders on the Straitline guide seem to work better than rollers anyway...

-Get rid of the stupid washer that's used as a spacer in the lower guide. Figure out a way to build it into the product.

All in all, the product has used too many shortcuts to save money and IMO the design is basically good but fairly poorly executed.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Your suggestions are appreciated. I think you'll find that in the current product, the G2 SL, we've implemented improvements in several of the areas you mentioned (further explained below).



davec113 said:


> My DH bike is a Session 88, the chainguide was well used for a couple full seasons and just folded over sideways. It was whatever guide comes stock on the bike. I broke one lower guide on the dh bike, one on the trailbike.
> _One lower guide and one backplate in a couple seasons of DH use is pretty solid, IMO. I can think of several other, more expensive components on my big bike that I'd love to have lasted a few seasons - but it's DH and sometimes I crash._
> 
> - backplate needs to be stiffer in the in-out direction, both of mine bent. 7075 alum or stiffening ribs would help
> ...


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

That's true, I did get 2 seasons out of a part that bashed a lot of rocks. One of the optional lines on Jam Rock at Keystone did it in 

A carbon backplate might work well, and upgrading the material on the alum model to 7075 would also make a big difference. I wouldn't make it thicker but a couple of strategically placed ribs could help. 

The captive nut and threadlocker on the lower guide don't work well, IMO. I would use a standard nylock nut that set inside a channel in the backplate thats as wide as the nut, that way you wouldn't need a wrench to prevent the nut from spinning when it is assembled. The nylock nut could be replaced when the nylon threadlocker is worn out at any hardware store. On the current design, to be effective the threadlocker compound would need to be cleaned off the bolt and replaced every time the lower guide is disassembled, which happens often due to the need to clean the bearing in the roller. It's stretching it a bit to expect all your customers to make sure the lower roller is properly assembled with the stock hardware, a nylock nut would be far more "idiot proof". And the washer-spacer has got to go, that's bordering on ridiculous for a mass produced part, that kind of thing should be abandoned early in the prototype phase. 

The last lower guide I ordered (a couple months ago) did not have the brass insert. Brass is the best material for the purpose, but aluminum would work fine and save a few grams and a few pennies too. My guide did have the screw that went into the backplate from the backside, but again, this is a poor design lacking in durability. It is a very small screw that threads into plastic, which is a poor choice for it's intended use. This should also be a through hole/bolt with a metal sleeve. 

I understand my ideas would add weight and cost, but probably not too much of either... and it would make for much better product, IMO.


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## lcd550 (Mar 15, 2007)

On my 3rd ride with the Mini G2 SL, the Upper Guide cracked! I don't have any idea how or why and I did correctly torque it. I did not hit or anything so now my wallet is $20 lighter purchasing a new upper guide.

If I break another one, I may have to switch over to a different chain guide!


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## lcd550 (Mar 15, 2007)

I give up! First ride out with the new upper guide, it broke. Maybe I'm unlucky or my chainline is not compatible with the MRP. Does look like a solid product.

Converted to a Blackspire Stinger w/BBG Bashguard. No issues on the two rides with this new set-up.

If anyone is interested in an MRP mini G2, BB Mount, 32T, without the upper and lower guides PM me. I'll give you a great deal!


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## RiderC (Dec 2, 2013)

Hi I'm just wondering can mrp chain guides use TF2 extreme wet lubricant?


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