# Front Shocks on the commuter: Pro's and Cons



## digitalayon (Jul 31, 2007)

I know this has probably come up before. But I have a commuter that came stock with front suspension. I am thinking of dumping them for a set of Bontrager disk forks. I am trying to eliminate costs of maintaining the shock. I never even ride this off road. So I can't help but wonder if I should. This should also drop some weight as well. Any drawbacks to this besides losing a little comfort?


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## Buck268 (Aug 22, 2007)

Well I'll tell you what, for the first mile or so of my commute I love the fork on my Fire Mountain (dart 1) compared to the rigid steel fork of last winter. But after it cools off, it ain't worth a damn... That and I have to keep the stachions well oiled both to help keep it from locking out and to keep them from corroding.

I better fork would solve these issues, but then again so would a nice raked out steel fork... And with a 26x2.1 front tire, I can drop the pressure love enough so that it helps smooth out the icey ruts enough anyhow. My summer bike has 110psi 700x32c tires on a very raked out tange chromoly fork with tapered walls and I have no complaints!


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## listener mark (Oct 28, 2008)

Lose the shock. Keep it rigid and lean, less to break and less to repair (it's also easier to do wheelies, very important stuff for the dedicated commuter,) I agree with Buck, throw some fat tires on your ride and drop the pressure a bit.


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## KeylessChuck (Apr 15, 2006)

I agree, ditch the sus fork and go rigid. Or better yet, sell it and buy some fat slicks. One less thing to maintain plus, who needs them?

I use 29er Big Apples. They are better suspension than any small travel fork.


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## Schmucker (Aug 23, 2007)

I don't even use suspension off road...


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## FBinNY (Nov 7, 2008)

You already mentioned the con. Maintenance. A decent rigid fork will absorb enough of the shock for most roads, plus it'll be lighter, and give you more precise handling. 

I find it strange that after almost a century of evolution leading to flexible shock absorbing fork blades combined with resilient wheels, we've moved in the opposite direction over the last decade, with overly rigid forks and wheels. It's almost is if the intent was to create a market for suspension road bikes


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## theodash (Apr 11, 2007)

Only cons so far. Here are some pros. The ride. Why punish yourself? When I was younger I rode all rigid. What a man I was! Now that I'm an old fart I prefer a non kidney crunching, bone shaking, noggin rattler. Don't have to worry about breaking those light weight fork with drops off curbs, stairs, etc. Hands/wrists take less of a beating. Call me a wuss, but I prefer comfort over speed.


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## saf-t (Nov 6, 2008)

My doc mandated use of a suspension fork for commuting during the early part of my shoulder surgery recovery. Now that I'm feeling better, that bike is back in storage, and I'm on my rigid fork beater.


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## darkmanx2g (Sep 19, 2008)

As we all know front suspension for commuting is very inefficient. I first started out commuting with a mountain bike. It had a non lockable front shock. The ride was very comfortable but it was really hard to maintain a nice cruising speed. 

I now ride a hybrid Trek 7.3 fx and compared to the mountain bike its alot faster and more efficient. Its easier to maintain a good speed without burning yourself out too early in the commute. Its much lighter and just more ideal for commuting in the city.

If your a weight weenie then I would go with a rigid fork. But if your front suspension has a lockout then I would keep your current bike. You never know when you will like to try it offroad. If you want more speed try a road bike or hyrid.


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## harry2110 (Oct 18, 2008)

I use the dart 2 that came on my RMB fusion for commuting. I was looking at a rigid but a suspension fork has saved me many rims and is alot more comfortable that a rigid that i rode for 2 weeks and I havent noticed any effect on preformance either. Maybe its becuase of the roads in my area are full of pot holes and dip and the side walks are worse. The sidewalks can sometimes be as bad as some offroad tracks(4-8in curbs, uneven brick, suddden drops, and almost no curb cuts on on street).


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## Tweezak (Aug 24, 2008)

I was riding a 1989 Fisher AL-1 which is as stiff as all getout. I ran high pressure tires for increased efficiency because I do 28 miles a day. I could ride over rough patches in the road and look down at my front axle and could detect ZERO fork deflection. This was translated directly through the 1.25" headset and into my hands. I put on thick Oury grips and a carbon bar but it was still pretty punishing.

Well, in a quest to build a nice dirt bike from some older ones...I ended up with an idle Trek 4900 frame. I built it up into my current commuter. It came with Rock Shox Pilot forks (bleh) but another parts bike came with a 2001 Judy SL that I wasn't using. I put the Judy on the 4900 and have been riding it. The fork is a little too springy because it is in disrepair and needs a busted cap replaced. I can't adjust the preload any more and it sags about an inch. However, the ride quality is much better than my old bike. I don't feel any handlebar vibration and it's a lot more pleasant. Also, the Judy (unlike the Pilot) has aluminum tubes so it won't rust.

If you are going to a rigid fork on a frame designed for suspension, make sure you don't drop the front end substantially in the process. I've never tried it but I have a feeling your handling would be altered significantly. I think this is how a lot of bikes with 29" front wheels and 26" rears are born. Also, see if you can't find a road fork that will be a bit more compliant than an uber-beefy MTB fork.


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## pop_martian (Mar 20, 2007)

So why did you use an apostrophe in "pro's" but not "cons"?


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## sanjuro (Sep 29, 2004)

That's why the Cannondale Bad Boy is such a great bike. The headshok can be locked on rigid or run just like a regular fork. 

And the 700c wheels keep you from being late.


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## pedalitup (May 30, 2007)

I got a C'dale bad boy eight years ago when they first came out. That was a nice bike with the 2x9 drivetrain and the lockout. A really fast commuter at the time.

Five years ago I rediscovered steel road frames with longer stays. I've converted a cyclocross and a touring frame to riser and flat bar and would never go back to what I had.

For a 14 mile commute twice a day in any weather. . . 

1) The longer chainstays allow for full fenders and both of the frames have braze on rack mounts that free me from the backpack. I personally can't stand even a hydration pack.

2) Steel just rides a lot better than aluminum. The poprad frame has a carbon cross fork and 25.4 mm easton carbon riser with those cushy thick grips, nice and comfy.

3) Both frames have clearance for larger lower pressure 700c tires even with fenders.

4) When I rode my 20 lb XC racer to work it took a LOT longer to get there so even with a SID locked out, the little wheels and fat tires aren't worth the extra time to me.

Hope this helps


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## zadey1234 (May 7, 2007)

Dump the shock.I use rigid for all of my riding, I don't need shocks, I use my body. Plus, I find it much easier to do longer commuting to stores and such without shocks. Only downside is when I do agressive trail riding is when that 4 foot drop comes out of no where, hurts like a f***er when you land.


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## Normbilt (Jan 17, 2004)

go Rigid lighter no bongy bongy


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## harry2110 (Oct 18, 2008)

Normbilt said:


> go Rigid lighter no bongy bongy


It may be lighter but does that offset the discomfort of having your arms take alll the bumps in the road.


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## Solomon76 (Jul 22, 2008)

I just switched out my 100mm travel suspension forks for a set of eXotic rigid forks a couple of weeks ago and I'm glad that I made the change. I was skeptical about the loss of comfort, but there isn't much (if any) difference at all while road riding. Gravel, dirt, and cobblestone roads are a little rougher than before, but not enough for me to want to go back to my suspension fork. You'll be perfectly fine as long as your tires don't have lots of knobs down the middle (I ride on Kenda Kross Plus tires). I'll take pics of my bike with the new forks and post before and after photos when I get a chance.


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## Normbilt (Jan 17, 2004)

harry2110 said:


> It may be lighter but does that offset the discomfort of having your arms take alll the bumps in the road.


I live in northwest chicago suburbs. where in the last week we had zero dergree day with 12" of snow, three days later it was 60 with 1.25" of rain, then temps in the single digits, with these extreme temp changes we have pot holes that swallow SUV's
Which really is not a bad thing.

I've been comuting in Chicago burbs for 10 years.

rigid in the rain,snow,mud,dirt sun,moon


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## Normbilt (Jan 17, 2004)

delete


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## Tweezak (Aug 24, 2008)

For a while I was actually looking for a carbon fork replacement for my uber-rigid Fisher fork. Since a 29er is the same as 700c, you can probably swap the fork and drop in a 700c front wheel and keep about the same geometry as your bike has with suspension. That way you'd have a "rigid" fork with some flex to soak up the little stuff. However, you may sacrifice wet weather braking performance because you'll likely have to go with cantilever/V-brakes.


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## rep (Sep 7, 2004)

If you commute in the dark, keep the suspension fork. It helps keep you from crashing when you hit potholes and other nasty things.
If you live where the roads are rough, keep the suspension.
If you commute in Europe, keep the suspension. In Germany, commuting bikes have either front suspension or a very long, soft frame.
If you ride on ice, suspension helps with control.
Commuting bikes should be practical. Since you likely have lights, fenders, and a rack, you don't need to think like a "weight wienie".


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

My last crash would not have happened if I had been running a suspension fork. 

I hit a hunk of asphalt in the dark and went over the bars...probably would have been able to maintain control if I had had some suspension. Also probably wouldn't have tweaked my wheel. 

That said, my commuter is still rigid, and my mtb is fully sprung. I just have a better headlight now. If you make the switch, stay alert...suspension can make you lazy.


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## sonoranbiker (Dec 31, 2006)

29er steel frame, rigid fork, Titec H-Bars with double-wrapped road bike bar tape; dulls the vibrations and smooths out the road chatter. 29x2.0 Serfas slicks; roll great and smooth out the cracks and such. We're talking about commuting on roads here, not trail riding with drops and rocks. No need for suspension. Plus, suspension makes your bike look fancier, more attractive to thieves.


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## nagatahawk (Jun 20, 2007)

on the other hand, I started commuting oh a road bike with a rigid fork. One evening I hit a rut moving along at a nice clip. I failed to see it and the hit that really hurt. it shook my bush. I later changed to a mt. bike and found i could keep a pretty good pace and the suspension would take the ruts. The mt. bike frame is sturdier and took the abuse of the rear carrier and loaded bag.

I keep the rigid fork for day rides.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

digitalayon said:


> I know this has probably come up before. But I have a commuter that came stock with front suspension. I am thinking of dumping them for a set of Bontrager disk forks. I am trying to eliminate costs of maintaining the shock. I never even ride this off road. So I can't help but wonder if I should. This should also drop some weight as well. Any drawbacks to this besides losing a little comfort?


It would have to be a REALLY rough road for me to want a suspension fork. A rigid is MUCH more efficient on the road.


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## Thinkly (Apr 9, 2007)

I have ridden 3 different mountain bikes a combination of ~30,000 miles on mainly unpaved rough gravel and dirt country roads in the last few years. Here is what i have learned:

Suspension forks are designed for one thing: DROPS! If you aren't dropping off of something say... at bare minimum of 8" tall you will never benefit from a suspension fork. Suspension forks do nothing to absorb slight shock from uneven roads or small pot holes.

That is the function of fat tires. Unfortunately all mountain bikes come with front suspension forks and so that is what you get. Fortunately there really isn't a penalty for having suspension fork on a commute especially because they won't be doing anything other than adding maybe an extra pound to your bike.

So in essence for commuting there is no real advantage to dropping your suspension fork because it really isn't doing anything anyway. It isn't hurtingn your efficiency much and it isn't taking any of the shock out of the road. 

With that said i have lost all of my suspension forks except for one and went rigid. There is really no reason for this other than being an purist and not wanting the penalty of a fork i don't need.

Keep in mind that both things are overstated when discussing suspension forks and any type of road riding: 1. They really take the bumps out. 2. They really hurt your efficiency.


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## comptiger5000 (Jun 11, 2007)

A good, well-adjusted fork will absorb small bumps. Of course, the extra softness for this can hurt efficiency. However, a firm fork will do little over small bumps, but can be a lifesaver on an unavoidable pothole. When my hardtail hits the road, I just crank the preload down to fully hard.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

If you're just trying to save money, I wouldn't bother replacing it until it dies. I would also skip the fancy carbon fork - Surly, Soma, Kona and many other manufacturers make suspension-corrected steel forks that will cost a lot less. If you're riding on fat tires, they already absorb a lot of the road buzz that carbon forks on road bikes are meant to address.

Aside from a week when the roads were covered in snow and I wanted my knobbies to commute, I get around town on an old road bike. If you're jumping up or down a curb or doing something similar, you need to be posting a little bit and use good technique, but it's still easier than a lot of what most of us ride off-road. The efficiency of a rigid fork over a cheap suspension fork is part of it. And part of it is that my whole commute bike cost me $95 - you'd need to find a pretty good deal to spend less than that on a fork, unless it's rigid steel. You can spend the money you save on a really big, powerful headlamp.


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## TheDon (Oct 18, 2005)

listener mark said:


> Lose the shock. Keep it rigid and lean, less to break and less to repair (it's also easier to do wheelies, very important stuff for the dedicated commuter,) I agree with Buck, throw some fat tires on your ride and drop the pressure a bit.


Don't forget nose manuals on the brakes!

I love doing those in traffic!


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## Thinkly (Apr 9, 2007)

comptiger5000 said:


> A good, well-adjusted fork will absorb small bumps. Of course, the extra softness for this can hurt efficiency. However, a firm fork will do little over small bumps, but can be a lifesaver on an unavoidable pothole. When my hardtail hits the road, I just crank the preload down to fully hard.


Perhaps, but I apparently have never owned one.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

The fork on the front of my MTB was a revelation when I got it dialed(ish.) It doesn't have a pre-load - it's a Manitou R7 from a couple years ago that I got on EBay - and it uses an air spring and a platform damper. With those set up right for me, it doesn't bob unless I get out of the saddle and use a fairly vertical motion to pedal, although it does still nose dive some under braking. Which is to say that I can actually sprint productively with it if I really swing the frame and counter my pedaling motion that way.

I wouldn't stick one on a road bike because of the additional weight and ridiculous amount of air resistance. Also because my road bike is too old to accept that big a steer tube.  But mechanical inefficiency is no longer part of the package. I hear that forks with a lockout and adjustable blowoff, like the Fox F-series ones, can be set up so that the lockout emulates a platform damper with no damage to the fork or negative effect on suspension performance, although I've never used one.

So I guess if I had a commuter with a 1-1/8" head tube and an extra suspension fork, I still wouldn't use it because of the air resistance. But I like fast bikes, commute on 28s, and would go to 23s or 25s if my commuter had 700c wheels and not the big old 27s on there now.


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