# 2010 Marzocchi carnage "cover your eyes"



## giantsaam (Dec 10, 2006)

Okay so here goes from what limited time I have on the new 888 evo it seems to be promising the damping was pretty good. I took a run to get it dialed in then on the second run I was going way to fast and clipped a rock. Here is a picture of my 1 day old Marzocchi 888 evo. It was not the forks fault it actually made me feel more comfortable at high speeds.


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## StinkyFTW (Jun 29, 2008)

So....? Nice fork, but really. I doubt anyone on here is surprised it got damaged, you just got unlucky and had it happen quick. But, its been good performance wise, yeah? My RC2X is getting old...


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

sad...
order new stickers


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## giantsaam (Dec 10, 2006)

it pierced the lowers thats fork oil everywhere


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## giantsaam (Dec 10, 2006)

StinkyFTW said:


> So....? Nice fork, but really. I doubt anyone on here is surprised it got damaged, you just got unlucky and had it happen quick. But, its been good performance wise, yeah? My RC2X is getting old...


Yeah the fork is good from what little time I have on it and from the size of the fluid puddles it was full of oil and every click on the knobs made a noticeable difference in the way it rides. I can't get lowers yet because spare parts are not in america so I can give a full review later. That and I am on narcotics because I wrecked my ankle pretty bad but it's not broken.


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## StinkyFTW (Jun 29, 2008)

giantsaam said:


> it pierced the lowers thats fork oil everywhere


Oh dang, didn't realize it was that bad... Sucks man. I'm sorry.


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## WTF-IDK (Feb 23, 2009)

giantsaam said:


> it pierced the lowers thats fork oil everywhere


That'll ruin your day quickly.
Sad to see.


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## Guest (Oct 15, 2009)

Hey sweet, that looks familiar. This happened 3 days after I got my 08's new.


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## Captain Snakebite (Aug 17, 2004)

Getting ready to sell my 07 888 RC2X. Just got a Fox 40, and seeing all this stuff is making me nervous haha.


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## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

As the OP said, it's not the forks fault and it's not marzocchi's fault, that is just plain bad luck. Had that have been a 40 or a boxxer lower, that damage could have been much worse ..


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## bdamschen (Jan 4, 2006)

Nick_M2R said:


> Had that have been a 40 or a boxxer lower, that damage could have been much worse ..


?? why?


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## PepperJester (Jan 2, 2003)

Pretty sure the lowers on a 40 or boxxer are thinner.


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## Captain Snakebite (Aug 17, 2004)

bdamschen said:


> ?? why?


The Boxxer's and 40's are very thin to help with the weight savings. Thats how you can have a 8" fork be under 7 or 6 lbs.


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## Gemini2k05 (Apr 19, 2005)

PepperJester said:


> Pretty sure the lowers on a 40 or boxxer are thinner.


And softer more importantly. My old 40 lowers would just crumble if they saw rocks up ahead.


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## giantsaam (Dec 10, 2006)

yeah I was hauling it ripped the rear rubber queen on that hit and my ankle. I just hope marzocchi can get me back on it in a week they have been very good to me in the past.


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

Maybe cut out a square of aluminum from a beer can and glue it on there with some epoxy? 

That sucks about your ankle, hope it's not too bad...


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## giantsaam (Dec 10, 2006)

davec113 said:


> Maybe cut out a square of aluminum from a beer can and glue it on there with some epoxy?
> 
> That sucks about your ankle, hope it's not too bad...


it dented it in also


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## giantsaam (Dec 10, 2006)

davec113 said:


> That sucks about your ankle, hope it's not too bad...


it hasn't changed colors yet


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

Aw f$%k, that looks like a bad sprain. Color will come in a day or 2. Thats going to take a while to recover from, and you'll want to wear an ankle brace for the next year or so. Sorry man, that sucks.

Those lowers can still be fixed, just push out the dent and patch the hole... but Marz might have new lowers for you before you can use them.


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## asin (Jan 31, 2005)

Wow I'm tired of people moaning about their ruined forks. All they do is whine about wanting them lighter and lighter. So the manufacturers stop using heavy-but-dependable oil baths and thicker castings and now people complain that they're too easy to damage? Harden up. You want it light or you want it tough? You clearly can't have both.

I'd take an 8lb rock-solid 888 over a 6lb piece of glass any day. How disposable do forks have to get before we realize that dependability and toughness are at least as important as light weight?


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## Jim311 (Feb 7, 2006)

asin said:


> Wow I'm tired of people moaning about their ruined forks. All they do is whine about wanting them lighter and lighter. So the manufacturers stop using heavy-but-dependable oil baths and thicker castings and now people complain that they're too easy to damage? Harden up. You want it light or you want it tough? You clearly can't have both.
> 
> I'd take an 8lb rock-solid 888 over a 6lb piece of glass any day. How disposable do forks have to get before we realize that dependability and toughness are at least as important as light weight?


Come on dude, if you blast a rock with anything you're going to bash the fawk out of it regardless of whether it was built 10 years ago or today. Stuff isn't designed for head on collision with big ass rocks, whether the fork is 10 pounds of 7.


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## giantsaam (Dec 10, 2006)

nope not whining just sharing. they make new parts everyday so break what you got.


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## cyrix (Jan 29, 2008)

asin said:


> Wow I'm tired of people moaning about their ruined forks. All they do is whine about wanting them lighter and lighter. So the manufacturers stop using heavy-but-dependable oil baths and thicker castings and now people complain that they're too easy to damage? Harden up. You want it light or you want it tough? You clearly can't have both.
> 
> I'd take an 8lb rock-solid 888 over a 6lb piece of glass any day. How disposable do forks have to get before we realize that dependability and toughness are at least as important as light weight?


Call me crazy, but I don't think the OP was complaining about the fork here. Seems you lashed out for no reason really.


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## Freerydejunky (Sep 21, 2006)

Which is why I will always ride 888RC, 888RC2 and 888RC2X's for DC forks. 
They give you years of good riding. Who cares if its 3/4 of a lb MORE. bohoo.


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## IrSc (Dec 11, 2008)

asin said:


> Wow I'm tired of people moaning about their ruined forks. All they do is whine about wanting them lighter and lighter. So the manufacturers stop using heavy-but-dependable oil baths and thicker castings and now people complain that they're too easy to damage? Harden up. You want it light or you want it tough? You clearly can't have both.
> 
> I'd take an 8lb rock-solid 888 over a 6lb piece of glass any day. How disposable do forks have to get before we realize that dependability and toughness are at least as important as light weight?


HMMM, I dont think that anyone was complaing about forks getting ruined. But you know I guess everyone can look at things different. Pretty sure this thread was started to let people know what happened, so maybe you should calm down a bit, yeah:thumbsup:


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## Flystagg (Nov 14, 2006)

With how fragile fork lowers are nowadays, I really think we would be better off with carbon fork lowers. Moan all you want about carbon, but at least it is tougher than paper thin magnesium.


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## Freerydejunky (Sep 21, 2006)

Jim311 said:


> Come on dude, if you blast a rock with anything you're going to bash the fawk out of it regardless of whether it was built 10 years ago or today. Stuff isn't designed for head on collision with big ass rocks, whether the fork is 10 pounds of 7.


Wrong.

I hit the lowers on my old 888RC really damn hard. Just a scratch. I mean, the bike hit a baby sized boulder, i got ejected. Then the bike flew off a 30 foot cliff. Which it then preceded to land on more boulders.

If I was riding a 888 Evo Ti shinny flippy whip it would have imploded.


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## DHidiot (Aug 5, 2004)

http://www.ktm-parts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=U6907834

I have really considered getting something similar to that for my DH fork lowers. Something around 1.75"-2" diameter (those picture are made for the upper fork legs of a 48mm stanchion fork, the uppers are much larger).


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## CapricornZA (Aug 30, 2009)

well motormonkey: you just guessing about the EVO there since u havent actually sent it over the edge onto amillion boulders. Besides the older 888s werent called bombproof butter for nothing. Of the best free ride forks out there. The weight however, did bother those looking for a lighter fork.That's all really.
So marzo wants to race light this time round. U gonna pay the price in terms of wall strength. Only so much damage thin walled tubes can take. They should make Ti sleeves for those who look for boulders to smash into 

anyways, tough luck there GiantSaam. I was really loooking forward to a more comprehensive review. Here's hoping Marzo can do somethin for you, and you can do something for yourself; ie look after that ankle!
btw: i ordered my EVO this morning from CRC. cant wait!


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## ragman (Aug 12, 2008)

Dude, that sucks about your fork and ankle. But since you can't ride maybe you can clean that dining room table off - nasty! By the way - I just replaced my 888RV with a Boxxer World Cup and you guys got me nervous since my bike is a rock magnet. Maybe I should keep the 888 as a back-up.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

giantsaam said:


> it hasn't changed colors yet
> View attachment 489798
> 
> 
> View attachment 489799


That's a bummer but, it might not be as bad as you think. I had one like that earlier in the season that I got from running ultimate frisbee. I made a strong cut and something just went and I could barely walk off the field. At the time it hurt to use the clutch. But, I was riding (gingerly) a week later. I was 90% in about a month and 100% in 2 months. Just follow the old adage RICE with a topping of LE. Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation, + Light Excersize. Ice it down frequently during the day for 15 to 20 minutes at most. Take 600mg Ibuprofen ever 4 hours (with food) to keep the swelling down. Buy a neoprene gasket at the drug store to keep it compressed during the day. Keep your foot up whenever possible (doesn't have to be that often, just when resting). Make sure to give it light excersize w/o risk of twisting followed by immediate icing. To me that was walking around the office, hopping on the road bike, going for XC rides on fireroads. I shocked people with how quick my recovery was.

Cheers!


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## captain spaulding (May 7, 2006)

asin said:


> Wow I'm tired of people moaning about their ruined forks. All they do is whine about wanting them lighter and lighter. So the manufacturers stop using heavy-but-dependable oil baths and thicker castings and now people complain that they're too easy to damage? Harden up. You want it light or you want it tough? You clearly can't have both.
> 
> I'd take an 8lb rock-solid 888 over a 6lb piece of glass any day. How disposable do forks have to get before we realize that dependability and toughness are at least as important as light weight?


I think you got it backwards, the Marketing dept. of the susp. companies tells us we want lighter and lighter.. when it's pretty clear to me that most people would much rather have a not-so-light dependable fork.. Not to mention almost every 1st fork has issues, making the customer the test-pilot..


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## Zak (Jul 12, 2004)

I dented and pierced the lowers on a boxxer wc last year. I sanded around the spot, and the pressed JB-Stick (like a moldable clay version of JB-Weld) into the dents. Let it cure and then it becomes sandable - sanded it smooth and rode it the rest of the season. It was uglier but no more leaks. If you have to buy a new set of lowers, do that to the old ones and then you'll have a backup set.


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## CapricornZA (Aug 30, 2009)

captain: whilst i tend to agree with you, the marketing has some basis from a racing perspective which gets glamourised to the point we cant help ourselves but shell out big $$$. I've fallen into tht trap on occassion.
Thing is, most of us are never going to be world cup racing quality, so unless you just a plain braggard, you dont need the WC edition of anything.
It's like in F1: not to long ago, the engines were designed to last almost exactly one race. Why did FIA increase minimum race lifetime to 2 races? becuase it's a weight penalty. Same thing with world cup quality components. Light as possible, strong enough. Those guys gets sponsored. We dont.
We just have to rein in our fantasies a bit, and buy what really suits us. It's the only way the marketeering department will get a clue.
But we all free to choose and spend as we wish> not a slag on anyone, just giving my 2c worth


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## kntr (Jan 25, 2004)

I always cover the fork lowers in 3M tape. It stops a lot of scrapes.


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## captain spaulding (May 7, 2006)

CapricornZA said:


> captain: whilst i tend to agree with you, the marketing has some basis from a racing perspective which gets glamourised to the point we cant help ourselves but shell out big $$$. I've fallen into tht trap on occassion.
> Thing is, most of us are never going to be world cup racing quality, so unless you just a plain braggard, you dont need the WC edition of anything.
> It's like in F1: not to long ago, the engines were designed to last almost exactly one race. Why did FIA increase minimum race lifetime to 2 races? becuase it's a weight penalty. Same thing with world cup quality components. Light as possible, strong enough. Those guys gets sponsored. We dont.
> We just have to rein in our fantasies a bit, and buy what really suits us. It's the only way the marketeering department will get a clue.
> But we all free to choose and spend as we wish> not a slag on anyone, just giving my 2c worth


Good points, but I don't completely agree w/your F1 comparison to WC level DH.. 
here's why:
-Anything from F1 is not based on consumer products, it's all high-level prototype limitless budget stuff. 
-Obviously this is arguable both ways, but a lot of the success in F1 can be attributed to a solid team behind the driver and of course the cars have to setup/tuned to the highest level to be as competitive. I feel in WC racing the rider is the biggest part of the puzzle, yes a good team and mechanic can also make and break a rider, but at this level these guys can probably switch bikes mid season and you will still see the best riders at the top of the podium. 
-That being said they are racing on the same stuff for the most part that you and I can buy right away or the following season if it's a prototype(not years into the future on high-end sports cars)
-Durability is more of a factor in WC racing, yes parts only have to last a run, but chains have to stay together, suspension has to work, tubes/rims/tires have to stay intact.. 
-Look at the weights of the top-level rider's bikes(regular season bikes, not world champs bikes for the most part).. they're all around the 40lb mark, Gee won the world champs last year on a 41lb bike, I'm sure Peaty's world champs v10 wasn't much less than 40lbs as well..

Just my 2 cents..


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

stop making this such a black-and-white issue. there can be a happy medium in between. fork mfgers could invest in casting lowers that had extra-thick walls ONLY in the area where hi speed rock contact is likely to happen, while keeping the walls relatively thin in other areas.

Or, the mfgers could just use the relatively thin castings they already have now, and offer a thin STEEL plate that mounts on the outside of the fork leg. racer boyz could leave that plate off; others could live with the extra 0.5 lbs.

my observation has been that nearly all the killer gouges are in the same general area. So it's not rocket science for the fork mfgers to solve this issue by offering a protection option.


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## berzerker (Mar 7, 2007)

This is the price we pay to have a light fork. I'll stick with my '03 Monster T that I've been bouncing off South Mountain for the last six years. Sure, it weighs 13 lbs, but it's bombproof. You may want to consider some kind of guards for your new lowers.


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## KillerSloth (Apr 21, 2008)

Looks like these may be a good idea... Not sure how much they would help with something that hard, but would for the smaller hits...

Fork lower guards by UFO (at interbike):
<img src=https://reviews.mtbr.com/interbike/files/2009/09/ufo_fork.jpg>


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## herbn (Sep 17, 2005)

it's really tricky,if you brush a rock at just the right(wrong) angle,instead of an impact you get a slicing action that removes some metal,does seem very thin,maybe those plastic fork protectors are a really good idea. I think my monster T's would have laughed at that impact they're on my old bike that i don't use ,but i loved those things, i could drop from the sky and land confidently on nothing but fork and 3 inch front tire.


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## William42 (Oct 29, 2006)

captain spaulding said:


> I think you got it backwards, the Marketing dept. of the susp. companies tells us we want lighter and lighter.. when it's pretty clear to me that most people would much rather have a not-so-light dependable fork.. Not to mention almost every 1st fork has issues, making the customer the test-pilot..


No, he has it right.

You want a fork you can buy and have work well for 4-6 years. Alot of peoples want to buy a new one every year and have the latest greatest fork with the lightest weight.

So, if 20 people want to buy 20 forks over 6 years, and 15 people want to buy 90 forks over 6 years, guess who the companies will cater to.

So we have lighter and lighter forks.


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## Ironchefjon (Mar 23, 2007)

pack that hole up with jb weld and refill it with oil. good as new. ive personally done it with success on 2 of my own forks.


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## murphdog55 (Feb 5, 2009)

i would weld it up, sand it, repaint and slap new stickers on it call it good


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## Raptordude (Mar 30, 2004)

motormonkeyr6 said:


> Which is why I will always ride 888RC, 888RC2 and 888RC2X's for DC forks.
> They give you years of good riding. Who cares if its 3/4 of a lb MORE. bohoo.


Sounds like you want a 2002 Monster T.


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## mwayne5 (Apr 4, 2009)

duct tape fixes everything...


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## FA-Q (Jun 10, 2008)

Zak said:


> I dented and pierced the lowers on a boxxer wc last year. I sanded around the spot, and the pressed JB-Stick (like a moldable clay version of JB-Weld) into the dents. Let it cure and then it becomes sandable - sanded it smooth and rode it the rest of the season. It was uglier but no more leaks. If you have to buy a new set of lowers, do that to the old ones and then you'll have a backup set.


As I read thru this, and the OP mentioned lowers not being available, my first thought was "I bet if you cleaned away all the oil residue, you could JB-weld that sucker!" Nothin' says style like a ghetto/hillbilly repair job that actually works... But I guess that sort of style isn't gonna appeal to most who cough up the cash for World Cup level forks...


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## FA-Q (Jun 10, 2008)

mwayne5 said:


> duct tape fixes everything...


The aluminum foil tape sold for use on heating ducts, etc is WAY better than duct tape! Plus, it's shiny!:thumbsup:


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## giantsaam (Dec 10, 2006)

Hah i'm not slapping aluminum foil on a new fork. I have destroyed most parts I have also broken the "unbreakable" 05 888 along with 4 totems, 2 frames and sliced this new fork. I ride hard and sometimes my hack style shows through.


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## Brian HCM#1 (Jan 18, 2004)

I don't get it.


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## adamantane (Jan 27, 2005)

geez, just shut up and epoxy the thing...


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## rep_1969 (Mar 25, 2004)

If you ask me. That's a bunch of bullcrap that a deep scratch like tht actually went all the way through to the freaking oil. These companies are making stuff way too light/thin now days. That's a joke!


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## CapricornZA (Aug 30, 2009)

must say though: that oil spill nicely highlights the carbon fibre look on those sidewalls


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## profile (May 20, 2008)

Pretty weak measurement of "carnage" some people have, I must say. :|


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## Tim F. (May 22, 2006)

I have 3 JB weld patches on my fork. Works fine. 

As far as the ankle not turning blue yet....It definately should be blue by now. definately must be a defect. You should call the Pope, to see if God offers a crash replacemt. If your an atheist, your just screwed, you can always try some food dye, or blue ink.:thumbsup:


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## giantsaam (Dec 10, 2006)

A little up date my ankle is puffing up just fine I am icing it 20 min 4 times a day and I'm resting and taking Motrin but its still puffing up. I am glad I was wearing my nathan rennies because if I was wearing a low top it probably would have snapped


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## CapricornZA (Aug 30, 2009)

looks like a huge baby's foot  a very hair baby i must add


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## giantsaam (Dec 10, 2006)

CapricornZA said:


> looks like a huge baby's foot  a very hair baby i must add


its all the hormones they feed the cows :thumbsup:


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## herbn (Sep 17, 2005)

at somepoint ,when your ankle gets better and you want to ride again ,and there are still no parts,at this point you will realize that you have nothing to lose in trying to fix it. I would take it apart ,clean it oil free with acetone,plug up the hole from the inside ,sneak some tape in there and stuff it full of newspaper.Then pick your favorite adhesive putty,jb weld seems to be the favorite here,but there's some "liquid steel" or just plummers epoxy putty.You might want to sand things down a bit,apply glue ,maybe wrap it tightly in syranwrap and more tape,presses the glue into the "wound" let it dry thoughly,dry to the touch is one thing, give it twenty four hours after unwrapping to make sure it's got it's best chance of being fork oil proof, put it all together, cross your fingers.


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## giantsaam (Dec 10, 2006)

herbn said:


> at somepoint ,when your ankle gets better and you want to ride again ,and there are still no parts,at this point you will realize that you have nothing to lose in trying to fix it. I would take it apart ,clean it oil free with acetone,plug up the hole from the inside ,sneak some tape in there and stuff it full of newspaper.Then pick your favorite adhesive putty,jb weld seems to be the favorite here,but there's some "liquid steel" or just plummers epoxy putty.You might want to sand things down a bit,apply glue ,maybe wrap it tightly in syranwrap and more tape,presses the glue into the "wound" let it dry thoughly,dry to the touch is one thing, give it twenty four hours after unwrapping to make sure it's got it's best chance of being fork oil proof, put it all together, cross your fingers.


To get the dent out would I use an expansion plug of some sort?


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## herbn (Sep 17, 2005)

if the tubing is as thin as it appears,if you put something in there maybe half the size and then go in with a tapered post,a piece of wood ,a broom stick, anything that can be wedged against the inside of the dent and hammered on to push out. You could drill a little hole ,start a sheet metal screw ,and pull on the screw with a claw hammer or pry bar. You try the gentlest first and work your way up with various techniques,trying not to make it worse , don't freak out if something doesn't work ,put it away and think about it some more. Once again .nothing to lose,it already doesn't work.


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## CapricornZA (Aug 30, 2009)

if the whole is small enough, get someone to weld it up. No worrying whether the glue or superputty will hold. A pro can do that hole up in a second. Permanently.
Putty etc will however do the job in a pinch.

wont the 2009 lowers do the trick?


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

CapricornZA said:


> if the whole is small enough, get someone to weld it up.


Best ever. Be sure to keep some gasoline and carb cleaner at the ready.


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## giantsaam (Dec 10, 2006)

Jayem said:


> Best ever. Be sure to keep some gasoline and carb cleaner at the ready.


I was thinking the same thing because magnesium welds just fine? if you like 4000 degree fires thats cool.


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## adamantane (Jan 27, 2005)

so you haven't opened it up yet...you may be right that it dented the lower...only way to know for sure is to open the fork and look inside and out..


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

CapricornZA said:


> if the whole is small enough, get someone to weld it up. No worrying whether the glue or superputty will hold. A pro can do that hole up in a second. ?


great advice......*NOT*


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## giantsaam (Dec 10, 2006)

adamantane said:


> so you haven't opened it up yet...you may be right that it dented the lower...only way to know for sure is to open the fork and look inside and out..


I can see its dented in about a 1/4 of an inch from the outside it looks deep enough to cause structual damage to the leg.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Screw the fork....glad your ankle didn't break. If you lived just a bit closer, I'd have dropped off a case of 90 Shilling to help you heal.


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## giantsaam (Dec 10, 2006)

vicoden and mexican food have been my poison since it happened


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## Triple8Sol (Aug 21, 2009)

asin said:


> Wow I'm tired of people moaning about their ruined forks. All they do is whine about wanting them lighter and lighter. So the manufacturers stop using heavy-but-dependable oil baths and thicker castings and now people complain that they're too easy to damage? Harden up. You want it light or you want it tough? You clearly can't have both.
> 
> I'd take an 8lb rock-solid 888 over a 6lb piece of glass any day. How disposable do forks have to get before we realize that dependability and toughness are at least as important as light weight?


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## CapricornZA (Aug 30, 2009)

SHIVER ME TIMBERS said:


> great advice......*NOT*


i know u talking bS, but i'm curious why you make such 'statement' without elaborating Mr KnowitAll. maybe we should blame senility for making you forget things such as TIG or GTAW? with your types, it's always someone or something else's fault.
but i'm still good for a laugh, so elaborate.


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## Gemini2k05 (Apr 19, 2005)

captain spaulding said:


> Good points, but I don't completely agree w/your F1 comparison to WC level DH..


BINGO
You don't have F1 parts on production cars. F1 is a marketing tool and a training ground for junior engineers (for the mainstream mfg.'s) and a place for ferrari to develop crazy technologies for the hell of it. Nothing is a valid comparison of F1. The bike mfg's have made a big mistake catering to these racer boi weight weenies IMO.


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## CapricornZA (Aug 30, 2009)

it was simply a very indirect analogy, hte most extreme I could think of. dont take it literally. Your problem solved. Think about it: they dont label the uberstuff WC for nothing. It's the same thing when commercial car manufacturers state in their catalogues: "using technology developed in F1...". some ppl see the wood for the trees, but some cant. It's human nature to make the simple assumption that it must be the best of the best, because it came from F1. Same thing with labelling a DH bike part with "WC", or having Steve Peat's name engraved on it somewhere.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Jayem said:


> Best ever. Be sure to keep some gasoline and carb cleaner at the ready.


Welding magnesium alloys require lower amounts of heat for melting than most other materials because of low melting point and other favorable characteristics. However a larger amount of distortion, relative to other metals, may arise due to high thermal conductivity and coefficient of thermal expansion. Therefore adequate precautions must be taken.


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## Bikesair (Feb 20, 2006)

ya at least you don't have to buy a new evo cart too:


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## asin (Jan 31, 2005)

I think there's definitely a market for the rider who wants something tougher. It would be really cool to have the option for the light race-day fork. But also for the 2002 Monster T super fork (or at least the earlier 888s) that put function and dependability above light weight. Remember when Marzocchi made forks that worked great and lightened them up afterwards?

I think most consumers want a fork that can survive a bit of a thrashing. It's cool when bikes show a low number on the scale but how quickly does that feeling evaporate when you have to walk your bike down Garbanzo?

If there was a light/race version versus a function/durability version I would take the latter every time.

*EDIT: Just to be clear, I think it should be possible to strike a balance. I'm not a big crasher but I expect my gear to be able to withstand a certain amount of carnage.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Raptordude said:


> Sounds like you want a 2002 Monster T.


I have one of those. Well, actually an '03. Smoothest fork EVER BTW!


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Pau11y said:


> I have one of those. Well, actually an '03. Smoothest fork EVER BTW!


I just mounted my Monster back on my bike. Everyone needs a Monster T. I got some spacers in mine so it has the axle-to-crown of a modern 8" fork. Used a triple 8 "medium" spring and took the Monster springs out (so one leg is empty). The Ti medium spring won't fit, it's too long, but the steel springs are fine.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

XSL_WiLL said:


> Welding magnesium alloys require lower amounts of heat for melting than most other materials because of low melting point and other favorable characteristics. However a larger amount of distortion, relative to other metals, may arise due to high thermal conductivity and coefficient of thermal expansion. Therefore adequate precautions must be taken.


Maybe, but guys here in AZ have been known to throw the lowers in the campfire as an offering, and when those things go: HOLY CRAP!


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Jayem said:


> I just mounted my Monster back on my bike. Everyone needs a Monster T. I got some spacers in mine so it has the axle-to-crown of a modern 8" fork. Used a triple 8 "medium" spring and took the Monster springs out (so one leg is empty). The Ti medium spring won't fit, it's too long, but the steel springs are fine.


Is yours a 7" or 8" version? And, have you tried the Fox 40 springs?


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## dogonfr (Jan 6, 2005)

DHidiot said:


> http://www.ktm-parts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=U6907834
> 
> I have really considered getting something similar to that for my DH fork lowers. Something around 1.75"-2" diameter (those picture are made for the upper fork legs of a 48mm stanchion fork, the uppers are much larger).


:idea: http://reviews.mtbr.com/interbike/ufo-plast-interbike-2009/ their ya go :thumbsup:


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Pau11y said:


> Is yours a 7" or 8" version? And, have you tried the Fox 40 springs?


mine is a 1999 7" model


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