# Niner RIP 9(WFO) vs Pivot 429 XL



## cphil (Sep 13, 2008)

I am 6'6" 215lbs. Trying to decide between the two bikes. Any other mtn bikers my height ride these two bikes? I think either one will fit with longer seat post and stem.

Thanks


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

Why not any other bike? The XXL Turner Sultan would be closer to a great fit for your height.


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## cphil (Sep 13, 2008)

*Turner...*



TooTallUK said:


> Why not any other bike? The XXL Turner Sultan would be closer to a great fit for your height.


Cost, its more expensive. I would like to try one though.


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

I test rode one before I bought it through Competitive Cyclist who have the XXL on their fleet. Given that I'd never test ridden a bike before buying (you know the score - local shop suck their teeth and tell you 'that'll be a special order'), it was a pleasure to ride before buying.


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

cphil said:


> I am 6'6" 215lbs. Trying to decide between the two bikes. Any other mtn bikers my height ride these two bikes? I think either one will fit with longer seat post and stem.
> 
> Thanks


I am the same weight, but sorry, an inch taller.

You won't need a long stem for these bike, i ride 5cm and that is plenty.

The XL RIP/WFO are HUGE!!!

A bike never fitted me until I rode those.

Either is great, which one depends on what you ride.

If you do go WFO I recommend the DHX, I had trouble with my 09 RP23 until I reduced the volume. The '10 RP23 may fix this issue, but why take the risk?

If you live Yorkshire, welcome to have a play on mine.


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

You will need a dropper seatpost, can't stress this enough.

The pedal efficient height is a few inches above the height needed to descend properly


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

CaveGiant said:


> The pedal efficient height is a few inches above the height needed to descend properly


Nothing to do with suspension or 29er. I find a QR seat clamp works pretty well.


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

TooTallUK said:


> Nothing to do with suspension or 29er. I find a QR seat clamp works pretty well.


I suppose it again comes down to how you ride, Dales is very uppy/downy, I would be spending all day adjusting my QR. It is also much harder ot get exact height with QR.

What bike do you ride TooTall and have you used a dropper?


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

OP, what type of riding do you do, this is very important on deciding what bike. FYI the Pivot is about the same as the Turner, Niner's cost less, but.........

Sorry to derail OP, but.........if you own a alu post a simple little scribe mark lets you get it right every time  I have no trouble adjusting my height down or up because I use this technique.



CaveGiant said:


> I suppose it again comes down to how you ride, Dales is very uppy/downy, I would be spending all day adjusting my QR. _*It is also much harder ot get exact height with QR.*_
> 
> What bike do you ride TooTall and have you used a dropper?


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

LyNx said:


> OP, what type of riding do you do, this is very important on deciding what bike. FYI the Pivot is about the same as the Turner, Niner's cost less, but.........
> 
> Sorry to derail OP, but.........if you own a alu post a simple little scribe mark lets you get it right every time  I have no trouble adjusting my height down or up because I use this technique.


So which is easier:

a) clicking a lever, it is the right height!
b) adjusting to a mark on the seat tube

Go on, you know I am correct.

Moving seat up and down in muddy condition got lots of mud in my seattube which was abrasive on the post, it rubbed off all the marks.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

If I had a serious load of ups and downs that required a dropper, then I would have one, but to me I don't so the far and between I do come across it's easier (and lighter) to just use a QR clamp.

Sorry, I run Thomsons, the scribe mark doesn't rub off.


CaveGiant said:


> So which is easier:
> 
> a) clicking a lever, it is the right height!
> b) adjusting to a mark on the seat tube
> ...


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

I currently ride an OnOne Scandal 29er and a Turner Sultan (XXL). I've never ridden a dropper because of the problems others have had with durability and their shortness - it means that at my 250lbs and precious need for vast quantities of seatpost it has never been an option. I do like the idea of them, but they are not yet durable, suitable (long enough) or cheap enough for me to worry about. I am not a 'hammer it, never wanna stop' sort of rider. If a descent warrants a seat drop, I'll drop it. Most on a regular ride don't need it.


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

Am I really that weird thinking a dropper seatpost is the most important thing for these bikes?

I need my seat full up to get the power in.
However at that height, I can't throw my weight around to get the cornering and traction this bike deserves.

I have only used the KS posts 850 and 900. 850 was ****; but the i900 feels as solid as a normal post. 

and at my weight, who cares about a few extra grams on a seat post.


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

Why do you say 'these bikes'? The saddle to pedal distance is the same on any bike - higher for optimal power transfer, lower for movement. That distance is the same on 26" wheels, 29ers, road bikes even.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

If you're really riding this thing to it's fullest potential, NO. But I don't think most are so may not be as necessary. Also a lot don't have such trails that roll so much and have such tech rolls down that they require dropping the saddle that regularly. Most trails I think of, you pedal all the way up and then a decent descent down, so stopping isn't a problem, on ocassion you come across a real steep, tech short descent and if that's the case and it's really that bad then you stop and lower it or walk it :skep:

FYI, I've only ever jamed my setback thomson post all the way down once and that wasn't too much fun and was only sucessful because I had learned to "let go the brakes" if you get in trouble - sure was a rush though when I made it down unscathed  Wasn't long either, just really steeep, tight and loose with short step downs in between.



CaveGiant said:


> _*Am I really that weird thinking a dropper seatpost is the most important thing for these bikes?*_
> 
> I need my seat full up to get the power in.
> However at that height, I can't throw my weight around to get the cornering and traction this bike deserves.
> ...


Think he's mainly refering to the WFO, AKA Agro AM/Light Freeride/DH type bikes.



TooTallUK said:


> Why do you say 'these bikes'? The saddle to pedal distance is the same on any bike - higher for optimal power transfer, lower for movement. That distance is the same on 26" wheels, 29ers, road bikes even.


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## nolan17 (Jun 9, 2009)

OP,

You can't go wrong with either bike. Could you give us some fedback on what type of riding you do? 

Personally I chose the WFO. At 6'9'' 240lbs I tend to break frames often and I needed the extra stifness of the 150mm rear triangle and opted for the DHX air shock. The other reason for choosing the WFO was the rocky, rooty New England terrain I ride in is very rough and wanted the extra travel. 

FWIW. The adjustable seatpost is one of the best upgrades I made for this bike, it allows one to use the WFO to it's full potential.

Nolan


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

LyNx said:


> If you're really riding this thing to it's fullest potential, NO. But I don't think most are so may not be as necessary. Also a lot don't have such trails that roll so much and have such tech rolls down that they require dropping the saddle that regularly. Most trails I think of, you pedal all the way up and then a decent descent down, so stopping isn't a problem, on ocassion you come across a real steep, tech short descent and if that's the case and it's really that bad then you stop and lower it or walk it :skep:
> 
> FYI, I've only ever jamed my setback thomson post all the way down once and that wasn't too much fun and was only sucessful because I had learned to "let go the brakes" if you get in trouble - sure was a rush though when I made it down unscathed  Wasn't long either, just really steeep, tight and loose with short step downs in between.
> 
> Think he's mainly refering to the WFO, AKA Agro AM/Light Freeride/DH type bikes.


OK I finally get it, downhills here are rarely more than a minute or so long.

I was referring to just the WFO and RIP for the dropper, more important on the WFO.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Ours aren't too long, but there's alwasy enough time, either waiting on others or it's long enough to stop and do the QR thing. I tend to try and see what I can ride with my saddle all the way to optimum pedaling height though and I do sometimes surprise the heck out of myself, but then there's times when you just can't get back up over the saddle for a move cause you get hooked up etc and that's not too fun 

I've eaten it a time or 2, but I'll usually go back at it some other time if I fail on a couple attemps and will suaully make it. ON the other hand there are places that it just doesn't make snese to even take the risk because the penalty for failure is way to great.



CaveGiant said:


> OK I finally get it, downhills here are rarely more than a minute or so long.
> 
> I was referring to just the WFO and RIP for the dropper, more important on the WFO.


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## cphil (Sep 13, 2008)

nolan17 said:


> OP,
> 
> You can't go wrong with either bike. Could you give us some fedback on what type of riding you do?
> 
> ...


Well, I want two bikes I guess One for single track and fire roads behind my house. For 1 hr-1 1/2 rides. Then one bike for Tahoe area. I live 90 from Tahoe, would like to try Downieville area as well.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Well dude, if you've got the $$ for it I don't see why not, but if it were me I wouldn't own a RIP and WFO, too similar IMHO. If it were me maybe the WFO built up super burly for those days and then maybe a SC Tallboy built up nice and light for those shorter XC rides - _light enough to be loads different from the WFO, yet still burly enough to handle some chunk._



cphil said:


> Well, I want two bikes I guess One for single track and fire roads behind my house. For 1 hr-1 1/2 rides. Then one bike for Tahoe area. I live 90 from Tahoe, would like to try Downieville area as well.


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## cphil (Sep 13, 2008)

LyNx said:


> Well dude, if you've got the $$ for it I don't see why not, but if it were me I wouldn't own a RIP and WFO, too similar IMHO. If it were me maybe the WFO built up super burly for those days and then maybe a SC Tallboy built up nice and light for those shorter XC rides - _light enough to be loads different from the WFO, yet still burly enough to handle some chunk._


See my OP, it was Rip/Wfo vs Pivot 429. The SC TB is nice though


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Then WFO for big days and Pivot 429 for shorter, smoother days. Do note though that the Pivot and Tallboy cost about the same, but that the TB weighs approximately 1.5lbs+ lighter.



cphil said:


> See my OP, it was Rip/Wfo vs Pivot 429. The SC TB is nice though


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## cphil (Sep 13, 2008)

LyNx said:


> Then WFO for big days and Pivot 429 for shorter, smoother days. Do note though that the Pivot and Tallboy cost about the same, but that the TB weighs approximately 1.5lbs+ lighter.


I here ya. The TB is cool. But I don't race and don't want to worry about carbon fiber. Thanks for the feedback. I am leaning towards your opinion. Kinda was going that way before my OP.


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## tenbsmith (Dec 31, 2004)

Just a +1 that Niner bikes are sized larger than many other brands. I'm 6'1" and tend to prefer XL bikes (Trek, Specialized, Fisher, Cannondale), but at a Niner Demo day I found their XLs too big and preferred their L.


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## cphil (Sep 13, 2008)

*Got it*



cphil said:


> I here ya. The TB is cool. But I don't race and don't want to worry about carbon fiber. Thanks for the feedback. I am leaning towards your opinion. Kinda was going that way before my OP.


Pivot 429 XL anno silver is built and ready to go. First ride tomorrow


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