# Pipe cutter for steerer tube



## captnpenguin (Dec 2, 2011)

As long as it cuts steel should be able to use basic pipe cutter to trim my steerer tube down right? 

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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

captnpenguin said:


> As long as it cuts steel should be able to use basic pipe cutter to trim my steerer tube down right?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


I just did that literally this past weekend. Installed new Pike. Pipecutter was HomeDepot Husky model.

Made a nice, clean cut.
Some quick pointers:
* Don't rush it; Just tighten the cutter say 1/2 turn for each revolution around the steerer
* Watch the blade to ensure it stays in the groove/cut you form
* Don't rush it


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## fredcook (Apr 2, 2009)

captnpenguin said:


> As long as it cuts steel should be able to use basic pipe cutter to trim my steerer tube down right?


Yes.

And it makes a cleaner, rounder, cut than using a potentially more expensive Park Tool saw guide and hack saw. My experience, anyway. Like *kevin_sbay* stated, make sure the cutting wheel stays in track.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I've done this and it's worth it to make a straight, clean cut. however, it creates a flare at the end of the cut, which makes fitting your stem and spacers a bit of a chore. you'll need to hit the inside and outside with a file to move the flare from the outside of the cut and the sharp burrs from the inside.


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## captnpenguin (Dec 2, 2011)

Sweet. Thanks! Now I gotta figure out how to get my star nut lower without a tool

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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

An m6 bolt with a nut locked down to the star nut to prevent thread damage works fine.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

One of these inner/outer deburrers can be useful adjunct.

https://www.amazon.com/Armour-Line-RP77271-Tubing-Diameter/dp/B0754Z5YWX/


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

IME pipe cutters leave an inside burr and an outside bulge. The burr is no big deal to deal with and the bulge is usually insignificant but sometimes interferes with tight tolerance headsets, stems and spacers.

So pipe cutter isn't bad but if I had a choice I'd prefer a hacksaw and guide.


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## Arebee (Sep 13, 2012)

mack_turtle said:


> I've done this and it's worth it to make a straight, clean cut. however, it creates a flare at the end of the cut, which makes fitting your stem and spacers a bit of a chore. you'll need to hit the inside and outside with a file to move the flare from the outside of the cut and the sharp burrs from the inside.


Yessir, 100%. I loved the straight cut, but even after it appeared smooth, the race still wouldn't go on. I filed a lot more than I thought I would.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

I'm so glad I have a cold saw


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## NorCal_In_AZ (Sep 26, 2019)

A hack saw and a worm drive hose clamp as a guide gets straight cuts. If I ever do another fork install, I’d rather spend the money of a star nut tool than a pipe cutter.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Speaking of, I like the Pedro's star nut tool. 

I'm sure everybody knows, but you can't use a piper cutter on CF steerers (or bars, etc.). CF steerers are pretty rare on mtbs currently.


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## silentG (May 18, 2009)

I have used both methods.

Husky pipe cutter and Titan steerer guide.

The Titan is rebadged (and the Titan brand is a rebadge since you can't find jack about it anywhere other than some Google images) of something made in a factory in Taiwan and all of the clones here including the Park version look very much the same, work the same, etc.

A good hack saw blade and the cutting guide works really well at the cost of a bit of time and generating metal shavings in the process.

This afternoon I cut a fork steerer and used the pipe cutter method followed by the usual file and Dremel work with the cone shaped grinder attachment.

After filing and Dremel I still have a little bit of bulge on the outside of my fork which makes it a little bit tight with a fork wedge thing I have to hold a fork by the steerer in a vise but not so much of a bulge that my stem (Straitline SSC) won't fit over it or my Hope Hed Doctor won't fit down past.

Either one is fine, the hose clamp method would also work pretty well I think.

Pick your poison, measure twice, cut once.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

Sam Pilgrim used a pipe cutter in this vid and then applied a well-honed sanding technique:





Use what tools you have... Or don't even use the tools you have


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## A. Rider (Jul 25, 2017)

kevin_sbay said:


> Sam Pilgrim used a pipe cutter in this vid and then applied a well-honed sanding technique:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow, what a hack. And that spray job... *shudders*


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## Outrider66 (Jan 30, 2018)

NorCal_In_AZ said:


> A hack saw and a worm drive hose clamp as a guide gets straight cuts. If I ever do another fork install, I'd rather spend the money of a star nut tool than a pipe cutter.


I've never thought of using a hose clamp as a cutting guide. Thanks for posting that. Now I have something new in my mental toolbox. For other things besides bikes, too.


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## Rngspnr (Feb 15, 2016)

Hose clamp is cheap and effective.


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## captnpenguin (Dec 2, 2011)

If I go pipe cutter route does it matter if it's for stainless steel or just "steel"? I guess the same for hack saw too

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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

captnpenguin said:


> If I go pipe cutter route does it matter if it's for stainless steel or just "steel"? I guess the same for hack saw too
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


I don't think it matters, as long as your pipe cutter is for metal pipes (copper, alum, etc) and not just for PVC pipes.

FYI, this is my HomeDepot Husky basic model that worked well for me:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-1-8-in-Quick-Release-Tube-Cutter-80-772-111/303697701


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## captnpenguin (Dec 2, 2011)

Now I'm wondering if I should go hack saw route instead since that is potentially more useful (I don't have either pipe cutter out hack saw and I don't trust using an electrical reciprocating saw I have) and it also sounds like less finishing is needed.

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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

I love the pipe cutter method. It cuts straight every time without even trying. If your wheel walks out of the groove, its usually because your pipe cutter is damaged and its time to retire it. I do all my finishing with a metal file. It just takes a few strokes to knock down the ridge and you're done. You can even do it by hand with sandpaper, but the file is a quicker tool.

Ive screwed up so many bikes as a kid hacking away at bars with the hacksaw. :lol: Pipe clamps arent 100% either.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

I've used a Dremel and a 4.5" grinder before with good results.

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## UEDan (Apr 11, 2010)

NorCal_In_AZ said:


> A hack saw and a worm drive hose clamp as a guide gets straight cuts. If I ever do another fork install, I'd rather spend the money of a star nut tool than a pipe cutter.


This. Took 30 mins to cut and file smooth.

Smacking the star nut in with a socket was scary and not 100% straight. I do not want to do that again without a tool.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Shark said:


> I've used a Dremel and a 4.5" grinder before with good results.


I'd be terrified to try that method.



UEDan said:


> Smacking the star nut in with a socket was scary and not 100% straight. I do not want to do that again without a tool.


An M6 bolt and nut works ok for driving star nuts in, if they're a little crooked it's no big deal.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

J.B. Weld said:


> I'd be terrified to try that method.
> 
> An M6 bolt and nut works ok for driving star nuts in, if they're a little crooked it's no big deal.


Why?
It doesn't need to be perfect, it only needs to be lower than the top cap...
And it's so thin material, it's easy to get a good clean cut, use a piece of tape as a guide. File lightly after

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## UEDan (Apr 11, 2010)

J.B. Weld said:


> An M6 bolt and nut works ok for driving star nuts in, if they're a little crooked it's no big deal.


You are totally correct. Didn't think it was ok when the first barb practically went in sideways!
But in the end, everything bolted up just fine. It's just knowing I took the time to make a clean cut but end up with a crooked startnut =(


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

I just did a steerer tube last night. Steel. Marked the cut with a silver sharpie since the tube was black E coated, cut it carefully with a hacksaw, spent thirty seconds with a half round file making it nice and clean and installed the star nut by threading a bolt into it and giving it a good thunk on the floor. 
Whole operation maybe took nine minutes beginning to end.









Pipe cutter probably makes a laser straight cut but it definitely works the metal.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Not a thing wrong with pipe cutter. Took my 5 minutes with any fork I've done. Nice thing, no metal shavings all over the place. Tubing cutters were designed for this exact job. Only time you cant is carbon fiber.

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