# screwed up with hotrock purchase without disc brake mounts - need suggestions



## goodmojo (Sep 12, 2011)

I bought a 24" hotrock street because it is much lighter than the versions with the suspension forks. I am ready to upgrade it to disc brakes and a 1x10 xt drivetrain. I built 24" crest wheels etc etc 

when I went to install the xt brakes I discovered that the hotrock street is the only version of the hotrock without disc brake mounts. Needless to say Im pissed for not looking more carefully and assuming that all the frames were the same.

There is a mounting hole in the frame near the left and right dropouts as well as on the fork on both sides. I think they are for panniers or something. 

Any suggestions on options? The fork isnt as big of a deal because there are a few disc fork options, but the frame is much more of an issue.


----------



## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

If discs are a major priority, you might be better off selling it and just buying one that's disc ready.


----------



## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

goodmojo said:


> I bought a 24" hotrock street because it is much lighter than the versions with the suspension forks. I am ready to upgrade it to disc brakes and a 1x10 xt drivetrain. I built 24" crest wheels etc etc
> 
> when I went to install the xt brakes I discovered that the hotrock street is the only version of the hotrock without disc brake mounts. Needless to say Im pissed for not looking more carefully and assuming that all the frames were the same.
> 
> ...


*
No worries I converted my son hotrock to disk it was really simple check out my thread*
https://forums.mtbr.com/families-riding-kids/nice-little-thrift-store-score-944397.html
Retro GT Zaskar Rear Disc Brake Mount Adapter Disk Le | eBay


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

If you don't weigh much, that disc brake adapter should work fine. I would still look at keeping the rim brakes on back (assuming your wheelset is rim brake compatible). Rim brakes worked really well for years, and a good set of brake pads can do wonders.


----------



## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

watts888 said:


> If you don't weigh much, that disc brake adapter should work fine. I would still look at keeping the rim brakes on back (assuming your wheelset is rim brake compatible). Rim brakes worked really well for years, and a good set of brake pads can do wonders.


*
He already has built up some disk wheels so rim brakes not an option, & these adaptors are solid I wouldnt sweat them weight shouldn't be a factor for a kids build or a 200lber*:thumbsup:
Brake Adapters


----------



## goodmojo (Sep 12, 2011)

ok just wanted to circle back. I bought the adapters but thought that it would be hard to get everything lined up perfectly so I kept looking for a hotrock frame with disc mounts. Lots of bikes came up in the wrong color (black/pink was the needed color). One was on ebay for 250 + 70 shipping - pricey. Then one came up for $100 but I was in vegas so was 3 days late emailing them. Emailed them and it was still available. Picked up the bike. chain was rusted, cassette was rusted etc. Probably why the price was so low. Luckily I only needed the frame.

Moved all the parts over, setup the brakes and 10spd drivetrain and everything worked great.

Daughter had a lot of trouble shifting the grip shifters on the original bike and she really likes the new shifter (SLX shifter), she also says the brakes work a lot better (XT brakes). It is easier to pedal as the front front ring is smaller (30T race face) and the cassette has a wider range (11-36).

I can sell the old bike for about $250 as it is in great condition so in the end Ill end up slightly ahead on the frame.

The stock suntour fork weighs 5lbs which is ridiculous. Right now the bike weighs about 22 lbs so if I can find a SID or an ebay carbon fork I can get it down to around 19-20 lbs

this is the approx cost (going from memory so it might not be completely correct)

XT brakes - $143
Carbon seatpost - $30
Bombshell cranks $148
circus monkey hubs $210
Presta tubes $15
raceface narrow wide - $35
Sell old bike -$250 (gift from grandparents)
Buy new bike $100
SLX shifter - from parts bin
cassette - from parts bin $50
bars - from parts bin
stem - $50 
crest rims $186
chain - $50
disc brake adapters $16
rotors - $80
smart sam tires $56
-------------------------------

total was right around $1069 for upgrade parts. Because the suspension fork weighs so much more than the rigid fork, the drivetrain didnt really save any weight.


----------



## SuperSartre (Apr 18, 2016)

Do you still have the rigid fork hotrock?


----------



## Steve-XtC (Feb 7, 2016)

goodmojo said:


> The stock suntour fork weighs 5lbs which is ridiculous. Right now the bike weighs about 22 lbs so if I can find a SID or an ebay carbon fork I can get it down to around 19-20 lbs


*Fundamentally, you really need to decide if you (or the rider) want a suspension fork or not ... * based on the main intended use. 
That is a way more fundamental decision than disc brakes or not....

For us that suspension decision was *fundamental *... because *we *ride mainly technical single track. My 6 yr old moved over to 24" simply to get suspension options... (I could have spent more on his 20 I suppose but ...)

This has transformed his technical riding.

*My observation is they are fundamental on technical trails and add unnecessary weight on non-technical. *

The philosophy of 24" forks add unnecessary weight and don't work is just plain wrong! the RST F1rst air are 1690g..... a lot of weight and more than a modded SID but they absolutely DO WORK on technical.... if you ride fire trails/dirt roads then they are unnecessary weight....

(I base this on watching very fit, very serious junior racers on 24" rigids get blitzed by a much younger and less fit kid with 24" RST F1rst air on technical trails both on descents and climbs)


----------



## SuperSartre (Apr 18, 2016)

I agree with most everything you said Steve (although I'd argue that even on intermediate tracks or simple but rough trails, a working suspension fork is an asset). 

My problem has been that while 24" offers real suspension forks, it offer almost zero rigid options (unless bought with a rigid). I'm not going to spend $400 to buy a separate hotrock where the only difference is a rigid fork and different tires. We ride a whole lot of road with a lot of steep hills and this bike doubles as her road bike and suspension forks (working or not) have a big weight penalty that is felt on long road rides with lots of climbing.

I've searched high and low on craigslist, pinkbike, ebay, the net, called 10-12 bike shops to try to find a working rigid for with brake bosses with no luck. I even called specialized directly and they were 100% unwilling to sell me a rigid fork under any circumstances. It seems to be my unicorn. One caveats: I don't want to do disc brakes. I think they are overkill in stopping power for a kid and we really only ride dry (or at least mostly dry) and so the weight penalty over Vbrakes isn't worth it in my opinion. 

24" rigid forks with brake bosses seem to have disappeared of the face of the earth.


----------



## Steve-XtC (Feb 7, 2016)

SuperSartre said:


> I agree with most everything you said Steve (although I'd argue that even on intermediate tracks or simple but rough trails, a working suspension fork is an asset).
> 
> My problem has been that while 24" offers real suspension forks, it offer almost zero rigid options (unless bought with a rigid). I'm not going to spend $400 to buy a separate hotrock where the only difference is a rigid fork and different tires. We ride a whole lot of road with a lot of steep hills and this bike doubles as her road bike and suspension forks (working or not) have a big weight penalty that is felt on long road rides with lots of climbing.
> 
> ...


You might be surprised quite how little disc brakes add.... at least over the OEM V brakes... (I certainly was)

My reason for disc was actually the type of mud we ride and being annoyed by the slightest lack of true in the wheel after dialing in the v brakes for his hands...

While changed I stuck the lot on the scale and the difference (XT and SLX) was actually quite small.... (once I added the actual cables and removed the V brake mounts) ....

I can look up the exact differences but they were surprisingly small ... sticking on 160mm also meant no extra weight from adapters. (Not that his weight needs them)


----------



## hallin222 (Oct 13, 2005)

Buy a carbon disc brake CX fork. The A-to-C length should be the right length, and it'll be featherweight.


----------



## Steve-XtC (Feb 7, 2016)

hallin222 said:


> Buy a carbon disc brake CX fork. The A-to-C length should be the right length, and it'll be featherweight.


I saw (watching GMBN) Fox had just released a new XC fork and its ridiculously light....


----------

