# Remove stuck locknut on rear solid axle?



## digital.aaron (May 16, 2011)

Hi all,

I'm in the process of doing a SS conversion on my 96 Stumpjumper. I'm a bit stumped, though. Here's the situation:

The rear wheel has a solid axle. Once the outermost nuts are removed, I can take the rear wheel off the frame. On each side of the axle, there is a locknut and then the cone that holds the bearings in the hub. I can get the nuts off the brake side, but the locknut on the drive side seems to be stuck. I've tried tightening the brake side nuts and then tried to loosen the drive side one, and I've also tried using a bit of wd40 to try to loosen the nut a bit, but no dice. Whenever I try to move the nut it moves the entire axle. So if I tighten the brake side and even then tighten its locknut in place, one I try to start turning the drive side nut, the axle just spins and loosens the brake side nuts.

What I really want to do is grip the axle to prevent it from rotating, and then maybe I can break the drive locknut. But everything I've tried hasn't worked. Do you guys (or girls) have any suggestions how I might get this nut off the axle?


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## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

The cone nuts are squared on at least 2 sides so you can put a cone wrench on them to hold them in place and loosen the lock nut with another metric wrench or socket. You need specific cone nut wrenches for this job. Makes the jobs of removing them and setting the preload when re-assembling much easier.


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## digital.aaron (May 16, 2011)

I totally understand what you're saying, Malibu, but the drive side cone doesn't look like it has the indentations that the brake side one does. Also, the cone on the drive side is quite a bit below the surface of the cassette.

Here's what I'm working with:


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

you only remove the NDS (brake side) jam-nut and cone - then you slide the axle out.

What are you trying to accomplish?


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## digital.aaron (May 16, 2011)

My goal is to remove the gear cassette (single speed conversion project).

I tried removing all the nuts on the brake side, but the axle doesn't slide off. It feels like the drive side cone is getting stuck on the cassette. And my cassette lock ring tool isn't deep enough to be used over the locknut. Hence me trying to remove the SOB.


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## reptilezs (Aug 20, 2007)

remove the freewheel and you can access the cone


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## Squash (Jul 20, 2003)

My first question is why would you want to get the nut off in the first place? If you are thinking that you need to remove it to get the freewheel off, you don't. The correct freewheel removal tool will be large enough to slide over the nut, and if it is the "correct" tool will have a hole in the center for the axle to slide through. From there it's a simple matter or replacing it with a single cog BMX style freewheel. There should really be no reason to remove the axle from the hub at all unless you need to change your over lock nut spacing for some reason, or are intending to service the hub. In any case, if you remove the freewheel first you will have easy access to the cone that sits under the drive side lock nut. The tool you will need to remove the freewheel is a Park FR-1 or similar tool. You'll likely need a different one to install a BMX freewheel though, and that depends on the brand of the freewheel. If you do need to remove the axle for whatever reason, simply remove the non drive side cone and the axle will slide out of the drive side. On a cup and cone hub like you have, it is never recommended that you remove the drive side cone and lock nut unless you are replacing the axle, the axle needs to be adjusted for center, or you are removing spacers to change the over lock nut width of the hub. 

There is one other thing that has occurred to me. You are aware that you are working with a freewheel type hub and not a cassette type with a freehub, correct? 

Good Dirt


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## digital.aaron (May 16, 2011)

Thanks for the info, guys. I'm nearly certain that I have the wrong tool for the job. Mine is too shallow to fit over the nut, although it does have the hole in the center for the axle to stick through.

And no, Squash, I didn't realize that what I have is a freewheel type hub. That's probably why I have the wrong tool.


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## digital.aaron (May 16, 2011)

Well, I got the Park Tool FR-1 and it worked perfectly. No need to remove the lock nut or cone nuts.

However, now I have a different problem. The conversion kit I bought won't work. It seems like I haven't quite done enough research. 

Again, thanks for your help guys.


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## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

digital.aaron said:


> Well, I got the Park Tool FR-1 and it worked perfectly. No need to remove the lock nut or cone nuts.
> 
> However, now I have a different problem. The conversion kit I bought won't work. It seems like I haven't quite done enough research.
> 
> Again, thanks for your help guys.


Sorry d.a. I didn't realize you were working with a freewheel. I would guess your conversion kit is for a cassette and freehub body?


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## digital.aaron (May 16, 2011)

Malibu412 said:


> Sorry d.a. I didn't realize you were working with a freewheel. I would guess your conversion kit is for a cassette and freehub body?


No worries, Malibu. I probably should have posted up the photo in the first place. 

And yes, my conversion kit is designed for cassette and freehub body. I'm actually kinda bummed, because I got a FireEye kit with orange spacers, which was going to look totally sweet.

Now I may have to put the multi speed cog back on until I have money to buy a new single speed freewheel. And here I thought this was going to be a cheap project. 

Anybody know if there are any other, inexpensive options available to complete this SS conversion project?


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