# Picked up a Redline Monocog...



## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

I've been scowering Craigslist and other barter type sites for about a month looking for a singlespeed 29er... Finally stumbled on a Redline Monocog yesterday. Only issue is the seatpost is stuck, but I'm not too worried about it. The owner used a screwdriver to try and give it a bit of space to wiggle out, and the result was the fins in the top of the seatpost (has a slot in the rear of the tube) are bent out a tiny bit. He also marred up the seat post pretty bad with a pipe wrench so I think I'll just look for a replacement post and saddle. I don't think the damage will affect having a new seatpost put in but I guess we'll see. See pic below.



I'm having trouble figuring out what year model it is, however. It has Tektro linear brakes, the slot in the top of the seat tube, and the frame color is a dark purple color. I'm curious what the gearing is, not sure if every year is the same but just curious what the specs are.

No other pics so far but I'll throw some up later tonight or tomorrow morning when I start cleaning it up... I paid $140 for it, so I can't really complain. I can't wait to order some parts and hit the streets with it though!


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## Bakudan (May 19, 2011)

Maybe post up a whole pic of the bike on here? Also when I'm looking at older bikes I usually check bikepedia.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I had one of those and I think it was a 2010- BikePedia - 2010 Redline Monocog 26 Complete Bicycle

if they did a different color every year, that would be it. it was quite a porker and gradually replaced all the parts to make it lighter. great bike!

I think they used a 26.8mm seatpost that year, which was kind of a pain. try this:
14 Ways to Unstick a Seatpost

you might end up scratching the daylights out of the seatpost in order to get it, but it's probably worth it.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

AnonymouseTech said:


> Maybe post up a whole pic of the bike on here? Also when I'm looking at older bikes I usually check bikepedia.


I take it you neglected to read the part where I said I don't have any other pics, and would post more when I get off work and start cleaning it... Sorry for your confusion.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

mack_turtle said:


> I had one of those and I think it was a 2010- BikePedia - 2010 Redline Monocog 26 Complete Bicycle
> 
> if they did a different color every year, that would be it. it was quite a porker and gradually replaced all the parts to make it lighter. great bike!
> 
> ...


Thanks, Mack... It seems super light already to me, but that's compared to my Motobecane X7 (hardtail 29er). I'm 6'3'' 270lbs, so I'm not much of a weight snob... yet!


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

Man, Craigslist is on the money today! Picking up a second set of wheels (with some knobby Innova tires, 160mm rotors and a singlespeed cog), set of Hayes disk brakes and levers, a stem and WTB seat, Suntour 32T front crank, and a Thompson 90mm stem for $150. Looks like I'll be under $300 for this thing afterall


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

good job! so many people buy junk on craigslist and get burned. sounds like you got a killer deal.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

mack_turtle said:


> I had one of those and I think it was a 2010- BikePedia - 2010 Redline Monocog 26 Complete Bicycle
> 
> if they did a different color every year, that would be it. it was quite a porker and gradually replaced all the parts to make it lighter. great bike!
> 
> ...


x2 on this, OP nice CL score....twice lol.  PB Blaster is the chit for freeing up stuck parts.

EDIT: What are some people thinking prying the seat tube that far with a screwdriver??? :eekster::nono:


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

Natedogz said:


> x2 on this, OP nice CL score....twice lol.  PB Blaster is the chit for freeing up stuck parts.
> 
> EDIT: What are some people thinking prying the seat tube that far with a screwdriver??? :eekster::nono:


Thanks... Yeah I thought the same thing, but it seems like it'd be easy enough to bend back. I guess we'll see when I get the seatpost out, I'll probably just use two clamps to get it back to where it was.


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## rti27 (Dec 9, 2012)

take the bike to a welder and have him heat the seat post the 4130 frame will not mind the heat. With the heat the seat post will slide out like butter. on those frame you have to keep the seat post lubed of course it will stick but prior to that it will squeak with is almost as annoying. i miss my redline


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## Bakudan (May 19, 2011)

sxshep said:


> I take it you neglected to read the part where I said I don't have any other pics, and would post more when I get off work and start cleaning it... Sorry for your confusion.


My bad I didn't realize it was hard to snap another pic.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)




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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

*Play nice when asking for help!*



sxshep said:


> I take it you neglected to read the part where I said I don't have any other pics, and would post more when I get off work and start cleaning it... Sorry for your confusion.


May be that YOU neglected to do an inquiry post/search in the REDLINE forum first too!

Lots of good help from peeps on these forums when one doesn't come off like an a$$hat from the get go. Just say'n....

Now as for your fix, I'd say that seat tube looks pretty F'd up to me, specially if you plan to get another clean seatpost to use. You could probably manipulate the top collar back in form somewhat, then ream out/clean up the inside with a Dremil and long mini-drum type sanding wheel(or wrap layers of some emory cloth type sandpaper around something you can use in a drill motor to fill void if its smaller diameter than i.d. of seat tube. After that you can cut a thin sleeve-shim out of a RedBull can like I did that just wraps around short of overlapping itself (i.e. leave small gap you can align with slot on seat tube) long enough for it to go into seat tube 2-3" and stick out above for style. Ends up looking pretty trick too....


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

AnonymouseTech said:


> My bad I didn't realize it was hard to snap another pic.


Touche~. Snap!


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

JMac47 said:


> May be that YOU neglected to do an inquiry post/search in the REDLINE forum first too!
> 
> Lots of good help from peeps on these forums when one doesn't come off like an a$$hat from the get go. Just say'n....


I said I'd post a pic when I got home from work, which I did... dunno who is the a$$hat there (if there is one), I think next time I'll just wait until I get home from work to make a thread AND post a pic, to avoid the confusion and resulting drama.

Thanks for the suggestion though, truely.. I hope to tear the bike down this weekend and then try and work on the seatpost issue with a bare frame. I've been spraying it with some metal penetrant twice a day so I'm hoping it won't be too big of an issue once it's in a vice.

In terms of the metal (I think chrome moly), is that generally easier to work with than a steel frame?


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

sxshep said:


> Thanks for the suggestion though, truely.. I hope to tear the bike down this weekend and then try and work on the seatpost issue with a bare frame. I've been spraying it with some metal penetrant twice a day so I'm hoping it won't be too big of an issue once it's in a vice.
> 
> In terms of the metal (I think chrome moly), is that generally easier to work with than a steel frame?


Good luck with the extraction. A ride buddy neglected his early model SC Superlight for a few years and his post got stuck. Unfortunately in a lower than optimal position the last time he rode it. So he could jam on the descents, but was painful to watch climb in the seated position.  Did the same as you with lube but never did get it to come out. Snapped seat head off in the end. Then bought a new(r) bike.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

I'll probably end up drilling a hole through the Redline seatpost and using some sort of metal rod as a breaker bar to twist at it. If that doesn't work, I'll move onto applying a little heat on the frame. Aaaand if that doesn't work, I'll cut the seatpost about an inch from the frame and use a hacksaw blade to start cutting the seatpost while it's inside the frame.

Lesson learned though, first thing I did when I got home last night was apply a little anti-seize on the seatpost of my current bike.


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## driver bob (Oct 12, 2005)

Soak the area in PB Blaster or with Cola, clamp the seatpost to a bench vice and use the frame as your lever. 

No need for heat yet IMO


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## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

Agree with driver bob--soak liberally with PB Blaster for a few days then clamp and twist on the bench. I've heard ammonia works, too, but I had a hard time trying to keep it soaked in the stuff, since it evaporates fairly quick.


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

sxshep said:


>


It may just be the angle but it looks like the other wheelset you picked up is for a 29er. Hope I'm wrong.

If nothing else works you may be able to get the seatpost out by getting the bike really cold - I'm assuming its an aluminum post which will contract faster than the steel frame.


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## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

AlexCuse said:


> It may just be the angle but it looks like the other wheelset you picked up is for a 29er. Hope I'm wrong.


I think both the wheels and bike are 29.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

Sorry, forgot to mention it's a 29er... I currently have another 29er (Motobecane Fantom 29 X7 21inch frame), with the factory wheelset. The extra wheelset I bought has some Innova knobby tires on it, I'm not even sure what brand the wheels are. I figured it'd be nice throwing a cog on it and having two sets of wheels for the Monocog, one with knobby tires and one with street (and different gearing, respectively).

Speaking of cogs, I have a quick question... If I want to change the gearing on this Monocog, do I just need a different size cog or do I get a "freewheel"? I was debating switching my Motobecane to singlespeed at some point and I would have needed spacers and a cog for the rear wheel, IIRC. For a dedicated singlespeed rear wheel setup, is it set up differently?

I'm researching it now as I speak, I'm sure it's been mentioned in this forum before it's just a matter of digging a bit haha


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## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

If it's stock, it's a cog, not a FW.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

Thanks... counted the teeth, I have a 33 chainring and 14 rear cog. I'll probably pick up an 18 and 20 cog to play with gearing.

I was able to bust the post a little loose but not able to get it out. I can spin it with a pipe wrench but it won't come out at all. I even tried clamping a bench vice to it while it was suspended and spinning it with a pipe wrench, but no dice



Then, from there I put a scissor jack between the vice and the frame to apply some force, still wouldn't budge. I'm not sure if taking it to a shop will benefit me more than what I'm already doing, but I'll keep spraying it down with PB blaster all week and go at it again next weekend I guess.


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

Had a similar problem with a friends frame, the post would turn but wouldn't pull out.

The seatpost was screwed anyway so I drilled through it at the top, put a bolt through the hole, clamped the post into the vise so that the frame was upside down with the bolt up against the underside of the vise jaws.

Put a towel on my shoulder, jammed my shoulder into the downtube/seat tube junction, and used my mega powerful single speeders thighs to put immense pressure onto the frame while twisting the frame back and forth.

It was a bit of a contortionist job, and I got a sore shoulder out of it, but it got there in the end.

Grumps


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

Thanks for the suggestions

Good news is that I had it spinning (with some force, but it was spinning with the pipe wrench)... so the "bond" has been broken. However, I've been soaking it in windex, rust penetrant, and now WD-40 for almost a week and it's still as stuck as it ever was. I tried applying some heat to the frame with a heat gun (probably in the 150-170 degree range) but it didn't help of course. I was just getting frustrated haha. Everything I've done, I've pulled it out MAYBE a quarter of an inch. That was a ton of sweat and blood (cut myself pretty good on a shard of aluminum) to get it where it is now.

So I think where I'm at now, I'm going to cut all but about 2 inches of the seatpost... then I'll take a hacksaw and make a few pie cuts on the top of the protruding seatpost. I'll clamp it down in the bench vice to hopefully reduce some of the top of the seatpost, then start twisting again. If that doesn't work too well, I'll use a hand saw to cut length-ways into the frame and start trying to remove it in sections.

I'm dying to get this thing back together!!!!!!!!


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

Steel frame and aluminium* seatpost?

Caustic soda.

It will eat the aluminium but not touch the steel. Not sure about what it does to paint, so please google yourself silly before doing this.

Once it's eaten away the seatpost, you can (and should) clean the seat tube out. Bit of sandpaper on a long dowel is good enough.

Grumps

* we call it aluminium here in Australia. We're tough here in Australia by the way. We remove most stuck seatposts with our teeth. Grrr.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

Haha thanks... I think I'll try the hacksaw route first, and if I can't get a good grip on the seatpost then I'll go the caustic soda route. I would do that now, but I don't have a bottom bracket tool to get the BB out first.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

It's getting chewed up, that's for sure


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## c_m_shooter (Mar 8, 2007)

I think I would look for a couple of good stout fenceposts and pull the thing out with a come-along.


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## driver bob (Oct 12, 2005)

Get that post clamped in the bench vice as close to the frame as possible and just keep working at it back and forth, it'll come out eventually !!


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## blackgriffen_1 (May 18, 2010)

Along with all the traditional lubricants/solvents/general-parts-un-sticker solutions, have you tried boiling a very large pot of water and dumping it down the cavity between the seatpost and seat tube? If you could pull the bottom bracket I'd recommend throwing on some work gloves, then pouring the water down the cut-off end of the seatpost. Proceed to slosh the near-boiling water around in the seat tube as best you can.

The benefit here is that whether or not it further un-sticks the seatpost, it won't hurt anything, provided you pull the bottom bracket (seals sometimes react adversely to boiled water :thumbsup

Also, a sub-topic that doesn't seem to have been publicly considered: is the forlorn seatpost the correct diameter to begin with? The classic line I got fed in the shop at one point was "it didn't quite fit, so I pounded it in." In that case, the seat tube was actually bulging out at the insertion depth and nothing I did could get that customer's seatpost free. In your case, 0.2mm oversize diameter could be confounding any non-surgical means of freeing the seatpost.


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## rti27 (Dec 9, 2012)

it has to be heated with an acetylene torch, i promise take it to a welder.
a heat gun nor propane will get hot enough to swell the metal.
he will heat up the seat post and it will pull out like butter and he'll charge you
5 bucks with is far less then the amount of money you would put in chemicals getting the post out.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

I'm fairly certain it's the factory seatpost but I may be mistaken... It appears to be the correct diameter, though.

I bought a little vertical hacksaw blade holder at Walmart last night, so I think I'm going to start hacking it up tonight (provided the opening in the center is large enough. If not, I'll drill a 1/2 hole through the seatpost and put a rod through it, hang it up in a tree or from the ceiling, and start hanging from it and twisting. We'll see how tonight goes though


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## God's Favorite Bike (Dec 14, 2011)

sxshep said:


> I'm fairly certain it's the factory seatpost but I may be mistaken... It appears to be the correct diameter, though.
> 
> I bought a little vertical hacksaw blade holder at Walmart last night, so I think I'm going to start hacking it up tonight (provided the opening in the center is large enough. If not, I'll drill a 1/2 hole through the seatpost and put a rod through it, hang it up in a tree or from the ceiling, and start hanging from it and twisting. We'll see how tonight goes though


One of my riding buddies/LBS mech has cut top of seatpost off maybe an inch above the frame then cut through post up and down from inside with a hacksaw blade and then just "peeled" it out. You might try that. Just cut post vertically on one side or two, top to bottom. Not as PITA as it sounds and doesn't dick up your frame like a torch or whatever. Good luck


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

Well after two hours, I'm more frustrated than ever. I used a hacksaw and cut all but about the top protruding two inches of the seatpost. From there, I used a dremel tool to make four cuts down the OUTSIDE of the protruding seatpost. Then, I cut down the INSIDE of the seatpost with the hacksaw.

I thought for SURE this would work. Moved over to the bench mounted vice and clamped down, and the four "pedals" just cracked off at the base of the seat tube. Grrreeeeeeaaaaaaat, now I don't have anything to grip onto.

So this is where I'm at now... I dulled/bent three hacksaw blades (I'm out of fresh ones), and went through two dremel wheels. There is juuuuuust enough protruding seatpost to grab onto once I make the cuts all the way through the inside of the seatpost. Once the inside cuts are made all the way through the post, I'll use some needle nose pliers and drive a wedge down the inside of the seat tube.

Cuts with the hacksaw about 3/4 of the way down the inside of remaining seatpost... It goes about another inch further than what cuts I could make tonight.


What remains up top....


Aaaand what part of the work bench looks like... What I've removed on the left.


All I can say is, this bike better be AWESOME when I'm finished with it. Looking down the seat tube, I can see a massive pile of metal shavings sitting on top of the bottom bracket, so I'll just go ahead and replace that once this post is out and I clean the inside of the frame out. Any suggestions on the bottom bracket replacement, or should I just use a "factory" replacement?


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## rti27 (Dec 9, 2012)

take it to a welder.


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

Or get a machine shop to drill it out.

If the bottom bracket isn't trashed, pull it out, clean and grease all threads and reuse it.

Bottom brackets need to be mated to the type of crank you want to run. What sort of crank are you running (ie: square taper, ISIS, X-type), that will let us throw some suggestions.

It's no consolation, but I'd like to say that your cuts are remarkably clean and straight. Sorry, just wanted to offer some encouragement in this time of need.  Been there done that with a quilled BMX stem that wouldn't come out of a fork steerer. The stem was a cheapo so I cut the head off, and after soaking it in various things, resorted to the "cut slots into it and curl it in on itself" method. When it finally gave way with a crack, this rusty smoke just poured out. It was really spooky.

Grumps


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## A1an (Jun 3, 2007)

Would try the caustic soda recommendation at this point.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

I'm getting frustrated with it at this point, feels like I'm not making any progress... I picked up a six pack of my favorite brew the other night after work and was determined to get it out. Well after about an hour and a half and 6 beers later, I was just getting frustrated and hammering small screw drivers down the inside of the seat tube. No damage done really, but I did ding up the top tube with a rubber mallet strike that missed it's mark.

I have four new blades, with varying teeth per inch, and just need a good night to spend a few more hours making new clean cuts. It's just awkward with the height of the work bench and angle of attack, certainly wears out the upper arms in a hurry.


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

Spraying a heap of oven cleaner into the seatpost would be easier on the upper arms. And the top tube. 

Grumps


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## A1an (Jun 3, 2007)

With it all mangled up the way it is you may want to try soaking in something like PB Blaster over night. Stuff works better than WD40 and now with everything moved around more of the penetrating lube may be able to get in there to loosen things up.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Uncle Grumpy said:


> Or get a machine shop to drill it out.
> 
> If the bottom bracket isn't trashed, pull it out, clean and grease all threads and reuse it.
> 
> ...


THis. Careful pounding on it with a hammer.



Uncle Grumpy said:


> Spraying a heap of oven cleaner into the seatpost would be easier on the upper arms. And the top tube.
> 
> Grumps


And this. Keep us posted.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

I'll give one more solid go at it with the hacksaw on Friday after work, trying my best to be patient with the process... I've been spraying it every day for two weeks or so with Liquid Wrench and WD40, probably should have been doing PB Blaster the whole time though haha

Thanks everyone, I'll update Friday or Saturday morning if I make some progress... Otherwise I'll start calling around the area for machine shops who may have some suggestions.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

sxshep said:


> I'll give one more solid go at it with the hacksaw on Friday after work, trying my best to be patient with the process... I've been spraying it every day for two weeks or so with Liquid Wrench and WD40, probably should have been doing PB Blaster the whole time though haha...


Liquid wrench and WD are crap compared to PB Blaster.


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## weaselman2 (Aug 17, 2010)

Update sxshep?


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

Ah sorry, forgot to update... Still stuck haha. I haven't really touched it, went fishing memorial day weekend and got food poisoning. I think I'll hack on it tonight, I know one of the cuts is all the way through on the top inch or so. The other four will probably require about 20 minutes of sawing each (if still necessary at that point).


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

I'm stuck, time to start shopping for caustic soda and the necessary tools to pull the bottom bracket. Worked on it for two more hours... TWO MORE HOURS last night. Started driving a screw driver down and got all but about 1/2 an inch before it stopped peeling off. Shortly after I took this pic, I tried with a smaller screw driver and it got stuck, and after about thirty minute trying to get that out I'm just going to douse it in caustic soda. I can't get a hack saw in it anymore, and I've almost sawed through the frame in one spot.

I've easily spent 12 hours on this thing, 12 hours of solid sawing or prying on it. Should have just gone with caustic soda weeks ago.


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## 744747 (May 10, 2013)

Wow,...that thing looks destroyed!!! I'd have taken it to a metal shop and gotten a bit of help. All the hours you put into it already are more $$$ than it's worth IMO. You really have patience my friend.


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## driver bob (Oct 12, 2005)

With where you have it: Machine Shop - Bridgeport and a few $$$ to get it milled out.


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## henrymiller (Jan 7, 2004)

I had this problem with a KHS Solo-one I rescued on craigslist. Ended up using this Drano:

Amazon.com: Drano Kitchen Crystals Drain Opener-18 oz.: Home & Kitchen

I did not want to mess with straight caustic soda. If you tape up the frame and plug any holes this should work just fine. My butchered seatpost came out in 48 hours.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

I should probably take the bottom bracket out to avoid any possible damage, I'm assuming... I need to look into what tools I would need to get that out


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## akaBrowntown (Nov 28, 2012)

Did you get this out yet? Have you tried a slide hammer?

I wouldnt have cut so much of the stem down, it would have given the machine shop more to work with.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

Well I bought a bracket tool and crank puller from my LBS today ($45), and a can of those Drano crystals... Man that stuff is awesome. Tested with a small shaving and it disappeared in about 10 minutes. I got this in THE BAG, right?!?!

Well I pulled the BB, and wrapped all the holes in duct tape... Put the frame inside a wheel barrel and let it roll. After about 30 seconds, all the duct tape started leaking.... and after about 15 minutes, I was out of Drano.

So, it looks like that is going to work... I need to go out and get a few more cans of the stuff, and figure out a better way of plugging those holes. Any suggestions, other than duct tape? Maybe I'll ask the guy at Home Depot tomorrow morning what he would suggest to plug the holes (there's about a dozen of them)


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## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

plug the holes with cut inner tubes. if you are going to do it upside-down, plug the seatpost hole with inner tube and wrap inner tube around the frame and seatpost junction.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

I bought some silicone caulking and two more cans of the Drano crystals today before work.. Never thought about flipping the bike over and using some innertube, I may try that. I'm not sure how that would work though for getting the Drano into the frame, the hole for the BB is kind of tucked up in there good


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## blackgriffen_1 (May 18, 2010)

Still rooting for you, I hope the extra cans of Drano do the trick!

:thumbsup:


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

Thanks, I'm ready to get it back together... I've got some cheap Promax disks and rotors laying around that I think I'll put on it for the time being, and need to get the wheels trued (or figure out how to do it myself haha)


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## driver bob (Oct 12, 2005)

If I could leave you more rep I would.... I'm gonna cheer when you post a picture with that seatpost removed.


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## J3SSEB (Jun 1, 2009)

Subscribed. I have to see this seat post come out!


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

I've got a written exam Saturday morning and work the next few nights, my plan it to plug the frame up Sunday night and nuke it with the drano crystals all day Monday haha... Thanks for the encouragement everybody, if it weren't for the enthusiasm here I probably would have sold it by now.

After tools, drano and a new seat post, my $140 craigslist pickup has quickly turned into a $265 PITA lol


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## The Rizz (Jul 3, 2009)

PB Blaster=ok. A 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF=Best Ever! Here's the cold, hard facts from the April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop. They did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better.

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10


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## blackgriffen_1 (May 18, 2010)

^^^ Actually not surprising at all that ATF does so well, that is slick and if you ever spill any on a floor, that floor's coefficient of friction will be low FOREVER. I'm assuming the acetone in the mixture serves to break down any oxidation present, since the ATF would stop penetrating at some point.

Interesting...


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

blackgriffen_1 said:


> ^^^ Actually not surprising at all that ATF does so well, that is slick and if you ever spill any on a floor, that floor's coefficient of friction will be low FOREVER. I'm assuming the acetone in the mixture serves to break down any oxidation present, since the ATF would stop penetrating at some point.
> 
> Interesting...


I expect the acetone is to thin it out so it penetrates a bit easier. I've also used 2 stroke, the petrol helps carry the oil and then evapourates, leaving the oil behind to do it's job.

My father restores vintage farm machinery, tractors and stationary engines mostly, and if you think there's stuck bolts on bikes just try some hunk of iron that has been rusting in a wheat field for 40 years. I think The Rizz may have just saved my old man's 77 year old knuckles!

Grumps


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## blackgriffen_1 (May 18, 2010)

Uncle Grumpy said:


> I expect the acetone is to thin it out so it penetrates a bit easier. I've also used 2 stroke, the petrol helps carry the oil and then evapourates, leaving the oil behind to do it's job.
> 
> My father restores vintage farm machinery, tractors and stationary engines mostly, and if you think there's stuck bolts on bikes just try some hunk of iron that has been rusting in a wheat field for 40 years. I think The Rizz may have just saved my old man's 77 year old knuckles!
> 
> Grumps


Haha this would be the rare case where our internet-based rambling and heated discussion results in improving the greater good of the outside world!

:thumbsup:


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

blackgriffen_1 said:


> Haha this would be the rare case where our internet-based rambling and heated discussion results in improving the greater good of the outside world!
> 
> :thumbsup:


We always knew cycling would save the world.

Grumps


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## blackgriffen_1 (May 18, 2010)

Uncle Grumpy said:


> We always knew cycling would save the world.
> 
> Grumps


Indeed, now if only the almighty powers of chemical reactions would save our poor friend sxshep. . .


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

The Rizz said:


> PB Blaster=ok. A 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF=Best Ever! Here's the cold, hard facts from the April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop. They did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better.
> 
> Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
> None ................. 516 pounds .
> ...


Forgot about the Kroil. Great info atf plus acetone.


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## NEOHIO Ray (Apr 3, 2013)

I think this was already mentioned but you could freze the seat post very fast and it will shrink the post before the frame will shrink. You can use several differnet thnngs to freze it. You can use a can of compressed air from walmart, turn it upside down and spray it into the post, or starting fluid. Most aerosols will become very cold when they are turned upside down and sprayed. Either way good luck.


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## blackgriffen_1 (May 18, 2010)

NEOHIO Ray said:


> I think this was already mentioned but you could freze the seat post very fast and it will shrink the post before the frame will shrink. You can use several differnet thnngs to freze it. You can use a can of compressed air from walmart, turn it upside down and spray it into the post, or starting fluid. Most aerosols will become very cold when they are turned upside down and sprayed. Either way good luck.


At the same time he could heat the seat tube using a heat gun or even a hair dryer, but I doubt differential cooling here is the answer. It works very well for freeing or enabling tight interference fits, but in my experience doesn't work as well for freeing galvanic corrosion.

Sxshep, any update???


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

Used some zip ties and plastic bags to cover up the bottom bracket housing and the headset, and put a bit of silicone in the other small holes in the frame. I was going to start mixing up some drano after letting the silicone dry, but I got distracted by a bottle of bourbon and some ginger ale. I'm off Tuesday also, so hopefully I'll get to using the drano again and we'll see if the zip-tie/plastic bag method works better than the duct tape did.


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## blackgriffen_1 (May 18, 2010)

Upside down with an innertube tied off at one end and hose clamped around the top of the seat tube seems to be a really good idea, since then you can (if you have a small hand pump or exceptionally odd funnel) just fill the seat tube from the opening in the bottom bracket, then be able to slosh it around however much you want.

Whatever the method, I so hope this works!!! :thumbsup:


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

It's out!










Used the upside down inner tube method, masked off other areas, and it was gone in about an hour. The white stuff on the frame is residue from the duct tape. Now I'll start piecing it back together, really the only thing to do it true the rear wheel. I have a 18t and 20t rear cog sitting in the garage but need to get a bigger chain. Any recommendations? Front crank is 33t, and the rear on it now is 14t

Thanks for the support guys!


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## c_m_shooter (Mar 8, 2007)

Mine is 33/20. It works good on my local trails. The only trail I've ridden in your neck of the woods is Brown County State park and it was good there too.


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## blackgriffen_1 (May 18, 2010)

33:20 is a good starting point, 33:18 may end up being your final gear if you get comfortable with it, but they're easy enough to swap out. 

SO STOKED YOU GOT THE SEATPOST OUT!!!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Now, as with every triumph, the cleanup awaits. :/


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## J3SSEB (Jun 1, 2009)

HOLY EFFIN CRAP! Way to go dude. Is the frame still good haha?


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

Got it pieced back together, still needs some minor tweaks. And obviously the frame cleaned. It feels a bit small to me (I'm 6'4 and the frame I believe is a 17") but very nimble compared to my 21" 29er.










This is my spare wheelset rear wheel... Can anyone tell me what I'd need to put a rear cog on it? A freewheel or something?


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## Xenu (May 19, 2010)




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## finch2 (Nov 13, 2009)

Is that hub made for a threaded cluster? The SS freewheel may give you a very inboard chainline. BTW that frame will be way too small...careful going otb.


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## blackgriffen_1 (May 18, 2010)

finch2 said:


> Is that hub made for a threaded cluster? The SS freewheel may give you a very inboard chainline.


On the nose, as it were. Definitely meant for a multispeed freewheel, and unfortunately it can't be redished over because then the rotor mount wouldn't match the caliper position. Even in the granny position of an ordinary cankset, that wouldn't be an ideal chainline.


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

At least the frame seems to be saved. Good work! Here's hoping the fun on the trail quickly surpasses the pain of getting that post off


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

Ah so it'd need a hub specifically for a singlespeed?

I guess I'll probably ditch the wheelset and start from scratch


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## driver bob (Oct 12, 2005)

So happy you got it out.... AWESOME !!!


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

Glad you finally declared chemical warfare on that seatpost!

Hope the rest of the build is more straightforward. :thumbsup:

Grumps


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## God's Favorite Bike (Dec 14, 2011)

All praise be to Saint WTF-ia, Blessed Patron Saint of Perpetual Persistence!!! NOW GO RIDE!:thumbsup:


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Uncle Grumpy said:


> Glad you finally declared chemical warfare on that seatpost!
> 
> Hope the rest of the build is more straightforward. :thumbsup:
> 
> Grumps


Awesome, but the OP at 6'4" should be on 19" or 21" frame.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

I bought it as a second bike to loan to others who want to ride with me... It's not ideal but in all reality it probably won't see much trail time with me on it. I'll measure it tonight when I get home but I'm fairly certain it's a 17'''

I've only ridden it around the subdivision a little bit but it feels pretty good... It's definitely more nimble than my 21'' Motobecane Fantom X7, but I think some of that is the stem/bars. When I stand up I feel a bid further over the front tire than my 21'', and it's easier to lean back over the rear tire. The seat (as you can tell) is cranked up pretty high, but it feels natural pedalling with a full extention on the knees.

Overall I like it... I'll like it more when I get the wheels trued (tried to myself and lost patience) and get a longer chain for the 18t rear cog! My other wheelset I think I'll just sell, or replace the rear hub for a singlespeed hub... Then it will be trail worthy.


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## sxshep (Jul 17, 2011)

Measured the seat tube from the middle of the BB to top of the seat tube and it was exactly 19 inches... Which is where I'm assuming it gets measured. Same place on my other bike was 21" but I could be mistaken. But I guess I was wrong, it's a 19inch frame... Same enough to feel quicker and more nimble than my 21", without sacrificing much cockpit room. 

I'm not well versed in the importance of frame geometry but this one feels pretty good


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

Bike companies like to confuse us. Not only does geometry differ from one company to another, a 19" frame in one brand might equate to a 17" in another. Add to that the fact that (in my view) top tube length is a more critical measurement than seat tube.

Sure, seat tube and standover are important, but when I buy a frame or a bike I always check the top tube measurement.

You can move the seat forward and back in the setpost clamp and you can tailor the stem length to suit, but if you've got the seat slammed all the way forward or back, or you're looking at a stem that's longer than 110mm or shorter than 80mm (for XC and trail) then maybe the frame isn't the right size. Of course, that depends on your own body geometry (torso to leg length ratio, arm length, flexibility) and the style of riding you do, but there are basic principles of bike fit to consider.

If it feels pretty good and you feel balanced on the bike, and you're not putting your knees into the bars on out-of-the-saddle climbs then you might be close on the money with it. Only you know for sure. :thumbsup:

Grumps


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