# OneUp dropper post



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Price certainly looks legit.

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/collections/dropper-posts/products/dropper-post


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

I like the remote, it looks very clean and functional.
And it's cheaper than the big PoS from Fox that costs almost the double.


----------



## castlefield (Mar 5, 2013)

Looks good. I'd want to see a few reviews ideally long term though. 

If the lever is any good might buy that to swap out my awful brand-x lever .


----------



## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

Two hundred bucks -- cool. Good lookin' head & lever -- cool. Somebody get some time on this thing and report, please. 
=sParty


----------



## crimedog (Dec 29, 2014)

It looks nice and it's VERY compact, and light, but I want to know what is going on inside. I was pretty set on a Revive but this is interesting.


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

crimedog said:


> but I want to know what is going on inside.


Exactly. Info seems lacking. Internal parts diagram or an install video from them would have been nice. Anything to further explain the operation basically. Is it air charged? Gas charged (like Giant) or spring loaded? They really failed with the info on this release IMO.

Oh, and the shims aren't available for another month. LULZ.


----------



## elias (Jun 26, 2015)

Ordered one earlier to replace my 1st gen reverb stealth 150.
Been thinking about switching to the 170mm reverb but it was a little tricky, this one however shouldn't be a problem.

It looks perfect on paper. But then again, they all do!
@ 209 euro with the matchmaker remote it's probably the cheapest 170mm dropper right now.
One thing I haven't figured out is, how many points of engagement does it come with?
To me it is no biggie though, which is why I just went ahead.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

we need details. going to check it out on Thursday.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

*additional thoughts*

Stunning lack of details and press coverage on this thing. Priced right, big claims, no info on what it is from an internal workings perspective.

I also find it really interesting on their "dropper comparison chart" that the Crank Brothers Highline isn't listed. Wonder if this is some kind of collaboration using their internal cartridge technology, but with a different remote (as well as some styling changes). Would make sense if they agreed not to go after each other's business, as literally every other competitive brand post I can think of is listed. Not sure how Crank Brothers sales have been on those Highlines since everyone is scared off by their previous dropper offerings. Also not sure how the shim plays into it.

Just supposing because I am bored and there is no info out on the post yet other than the email I received this morning.


----------



## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

blaklabl said:


> Stunning lack of details and press coverage on this thing. Priced right, big claims, no info on what it is from an internal workings perspective.
> 
> I also find it really interesting on their "dropper comparison chart" that the Crank Brothers Highline isn't listed. Wonder if this is some kind of collaboration using their internal cartridge technology, but with a different remote (as well as some styling changes). Would make sense if they agreed not to go after each other's business, as literally every other competitive brand post I can think of is listed. Not sure how Crank Brothers sales have been on those Highlines since everyone is scared off by their previous dropper offerings. Also not sure how the shim plays into it.
> 
> Just supposing because I am bored and there is no info out on the post yet other than the email I received this morning.


It's only been announced to dealers so far. LBS has ordered one.

Sent from my SM-G935S using Tapatalk


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Travis Bickle said:


> It's only been announced to dealers so far.


and anyone on their email list...


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Email response I got:



> Hey Scott a full press release will be going out soon with more info. We use a sealed cartridge that can be replaced if necessary. This will retail for $80 and be available in a month.
> 
> Cheers,
> Chris


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Apparently it uses a replaceable cartridge, so not on my list.
Not been able to fully service it at home is what made me get a Revive, over the Transfer.


----------



## jimw (Aug 10, 2004)

Remote looks interesting, cool to see them doing something slightly different there and probably an improvement (like most everything else they do!). I ordered the remote... to try with my Revive.


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Bummer, was hoping for a mechanical brake / mechanical pressure seatpost. Price is good, but it actually costs $250 if you buy it with a remote. That puts it on par with a lot of other stuff at this point.


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Porch said:


> Bummer, was hoping for a mechanical brake / mechanical pressure seatpost. Price is good, but it actually costs $250 if you buy it with a remote. That puts it on par with a lot of other stuff at this point.


I already have a remote, but I agree. Brand X and Giant make some great posts for less than 200$ that include the remote. I have one of each and can't seem to kill either one. No matter how cold or muddy it gets they keep truckin.


----------



## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

fc i believe has been testing one so a review is coming soon i would think. They will be at Sea Otter this week!


----------



## R_Pierce (May 31, 2017)

Nobody else likes the adjustable travel? To me that is huge! That opens up a lot of doors for people that are just under a 150mm dropper but dont want to have to drop down to a 125mm. 

That is the number one thing that caught my eye!


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

R_Pierce said:


> Nobody else likes the adjustable travel? To me that is huge! That opens up a lot of doors for people that are just under a 150mm dropper but dont want to have to drop down to a 125mm.
> 
> That is the number one thing that caught my eye!


yeah, to my knowledge 9point8 was the only adjustable travel dropper until now.


----------



## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Yeah?? What do you thinkl?


----------



## Higs (Jul 4, 2017)

That looks great, will try to get a 170 one and see how that fits compared to the current 125 brand-x (that has quite a bit of seat tube showing).


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Thanks FC! Infinite adjustment, 170mm, shimmed height adjustment and gas charged are all pluses for me. Next time a dropper dies on me this may very well be on the short list.


----------



## Fluidworks (Oct 3, 2008)

Porch said:


> Bummer, was hoping for a mechanical brake / mechanical pressure seatpost. Price is good, but it actually costs $250 if you buy it with a remote. That puts it on par with a lot of other stuff at this point.


There are currently no other droppers at this price point with adjustable travel (and travel longer than 150)


----------



## R_Pierce (May 31, 2017)

I gotta have one....


----------



## KGAmoto (Aug 6, 2008)

R_Pierce said:


> Nobody else likes the adjustable travel? To me that is huge! That opens up a lot of doors for people that are just under a 150mm dropper but dont want to have to drop down to a 125mm.
> 
> That is the number one thing that caught my eye!


I agree 100%. The ability to tune this to your needs is brilliant. I believe I can get away with a 155 or 160mm drop. That is awesome. It's light, affordable, nice remote. I don't care about the replaceable cartridge - I'd prefer to service it myself but all good.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## KGAmoto (Aug 6, 2008)

I’ve been looking for a good excuse to replace my 125mm Reverb (with the new 1x remote which makes it quite good). This is it. I will be ordering one. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## KyleStyle87 (Nov 28, 2017)

Looks like I found a match! I want to get one. Does Wolf tooth work with it?


----------



## canadianjerkey (Feb 27, 2014)

My wife is very excited at the prospect of a 150mm dropper!


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

KGAmoto said:


> I agree 100%. The ability to tune this to your needs is brilliant. I believe I can get away with a 155 or 160mm drop. That is awesome. It's light, affordable, nice remote. I don't care about the replaceable cartridge - I'd prefer to service it myself but all good.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If it's anything like the Giant post, the cartridge is easily replaced by the end user.



KyleStyle87 said:


> Does Wolf tooth work with it?


Head at the post and loose cable end at the remote type design. So yes!


----------



## Sparkman999 (Dec 19, 2017)

A rep from OneUp has been active in the comments section of the Pinkbike article on this and has been answering questions on how it works, etc. there.


----------



## jimw (Aug 10, 2004)

The shim mechanism is genius. Wish they made one in a 185 drop with 34.9 diameter! Was going to get the Revive in that size but it's like 5mm too long for my setup, NEED MOAR SHIMZ!


----------



## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

jimw said:


> The shim mechanism is genius. Wish they made one in a 185 drop with 34.9 diameter! Was going to get the Revive in that size but it's like 5mm too long for my setup, NEED MOAR SHIMZ!


Apparently the Revive can be travel adjusted with a spacer, it's just a bit more complicated to do it. Maybe BikeYoke will address this?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Aglo said:


> Apparently it uses a replaceable cartridge, so not on my list.
> Not been able to fully service it at home is what made me get a Revive, over the Transfer.


Sorry for the delay in getting on here. Couldn't comment before the official release and PB comment section goes mental

Yes, The cartridge is a user replaceable, sealed gas/hydraulic unit. warranty on the unit is 2 years. Replacement cost after warranty is $80.

Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

KyleStyle87 said:


> Looks like I found a match! I want to get one. Does Wolf tooth work with it?


Yes it does but we feel our new remote is the best in the business. That said, if you have a WT it's a great product too.


----------



## KGAmoto (Aug 6, 2008)

OneUp said:


> Sorry for the delay in getting on here. Couldn't comment before the official release and PB comment section goes mental
> 
> Yes, The cartridge is a user replaceable, sealed gas/hydraulic unit. warranty on the unit is 2 years. Replacement cost after warranty is $80.
> 
> ...


Looks like you've made a great product - can't wait to get mine. Nice work.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

blaklabl said:


> Stunning lack of details and press coverage on this thing. Priced right, big claims, no info on what it is from an internal workings perspective.
> 
> I also find it really interesting on their "dropper comparison chart" that the Crank Brothers Highline isn't listed. Wonder if this is some kind of collaboration using their internal cartridge technology, but with a different remote (as well as some styling changes). Would make sense if they agreed not to go after each other's business, as literally every other competitive brand post I can think of is listed. Not sure how Crank Brothers sales have been on those Highlines since everyone is scared off by their previous dropper offerings. Also not sure how the shim plays into it.
> 
> Just supposing because I am bored and there is no info out on the post yet other than the email I received this morning.


No relation to Crank Bros but I added them to the chart. I think we now have all the details up. Let me know if we're missing something.

Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Are these shipping now?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

blaklabl said:


> Are these shipping now?


Everything except the shims which are delayed until May 14th.

Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Oh, and the shims aren't available for another month. LULZ.


So you expect to buy one, shim and then move it to another bike requiring a new shim all in a month?


----------



## beer_coffee_water (Mar 1, 2011)

Will these be available at Sea otter, specifically the 30.9 170mm?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

beer_coffee_water said:


> Will these be available at Sea otter, specifically the 30.9 170mm?


We won't have anything available for sale at SO except T's


----------



## beer_coffee_water (Mar 1, 2011)

I was thinking that was the case, thanks!


----------



## KyleStyle87 (Nov 28, 2017)

OneUp said:


> Yes it does but we feel our new remote is the best in the business. That said, if you have a WT it's a great product too.


Ok thank you I will add with your remote. Already have the pedals. Great product. Excited to try the dropper.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I wonder if the 150mm will fit a Stumpjumper? I've got a short inseam...and the SJ has a kinked seat tube.

From the kink in the seat tube to the top of the seat collar is about 10.5 inches. Then another inch from the top of the seat collar to the base of the Command Post collar. I want to ditch the CP.

I really like the aesthetics of the post too. Other posts in this price range have some bulky collars and post heads. The OU post is so svelte looking.

Bummer they're not selling posts at SO. I'll be there on Saturday.


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

TwoTone said:


> So you expect to buy one, shim and then move it to another bike requiring a new shim all in a month?


The website literally says the shims are available separately. Assuming this is not a misprint and the post actually comes with a shim, your sarcastic point would be valid. But the product page essentially says you buy the post, then in a month you can shim it.



> SPECS
> 
> Drop 170mm or 150mm infinitely adjustable.
> 
> ...


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

this dropper post is brilliant


does what others do and more, at half the price

my 400 dollar DVO garnet is not as practical as the OneUp.

(I do like my Revive though)


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> The website literally says the shims are available separately. Assuming this is not a misprint and the post actually comes with a shim, your sarcastic point would be valid. But the product page essentially says you buy the post, then in a month you can shim it.


My mistake. Honestly would never have thought you'd need to buy it separately unless you're replacing it.

IMHO pretty petty money grab. If that is your big marketing plus to your post it should be in the box.

if it's shimable, it should come with it


----------



## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

TwoTone said:


> If that is your big marketing plus to your post it should be in the box.
> 
> if it's shimable, it should come with it


Agree 100%. Ideally the post would arrive with a shim in the box. Are we certain it doesn't?
=sParty


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

TwoTone said:


> My mistake. Honestly would never have thought you'd need to buy it separately unless you're replacing it.
> 
> IMHO pretty petty money grab. If that is your big marketing plus to your post it should be in the box.
> 
> if it's shimable, it should come with it


Agree 100% on all points. Hence, my "LULZ" at their nickel and dime business practice and 1 month wait for anyone who overlooked that lil tidbit on the product page thinking they could order their post and shim/tune the day it shows up.


----------



## KGAmoto (Aug 6, 2008)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Agree 100% on all points. Hence, my "LULZ" at their nickel and dime business practice and 1 month wait for anyone who overlooked that lil tidbit on the product page thinking they could order their post and shim/tune the day it shows up.


I think it's safe to assume they would have preferred to have the shims available right now along with the post. Dealing with overseas production is tough - I'm sure they needed to launch the post at Sea Otter to meet deadlines and just has to deal with the downside.

But I do agree that including a .50 shim in the box would have added even-more value to this. I bet that was a tough decision to make.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

Sparticus said:


> Agree 100%. Ideally the post would arrive with a shim in the box. Are we certain it doesn't?
> =sParty


*NOTE: Shim sold separately

Yeah, that's a silly move for what is obviously the cheapest part of the post.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

KGAmoto said:


> I think it's safe to assume they would have preferred to have the shims available right now along with the post. Dealing with overseas production is tough - I'm sure they needed to launch the post at Sea Otter to meet deadlines and just has to deal with the downside.
> 
> But I do agree that including a .50 shim in the box would have added even-more value to this. I bet that was a tough decision to make.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Simple solution that could be posted on the web: We'll be sending out free shims to those that buy now and will be included in future purchases once they arrive.

So now it'll be $10 fo a $1 piece of plastic, and like every other small part you buy $8 shipping.


----------



## KGAmoto (Aug 6, 2008)

TwoTone said:


> Simple solution that could be posted on the web, we'll be sending out free shims to those that buy now.
> 
> So now it'll be $10 fo a $1 piece of plastic, and like every other small part you buy $8 shipping.


Yep that would be a great idea on their behalf. I've heard they have great service as-is; this would take it up another notch.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

TwoTone said:


> Simple solution that could be posted on the web: We'll be sending out free shims to those that buy now and will be included in future purchases once they arrive.
> 
> So now it'll be $10 fo a $1 piece of plastic, and like every other small part you buy $8 shipping.


well said!


----------



## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

WAG time- The design of the keyways that allows for the shim was always part of the design, but they were just intended to be regular keyways, maybe the lower bushing engages them. And then someone had the bright idea about the travel adjust shim late in the game and they didn't have time to get them produced for release.


----------



## Atmos312 (Oct 12, 2017)

Damn, I literally bought a Fox Transfer + Wolftooth Remote like 2 weeks ago and getting it (and other things) installed at the LBS this week.

Looks like I could have gotten the 170mm OneUp instead and saved myself about $40 (along with getting a better warranty + user serviceability). 

Oh well


----------



## Imho4ep (Jul 20, 2007)

ok so this came out just as i was about to "drop" another post in my basket, took a chance.
installed it last night but one thing that is a bit perplexing, the post side connection? there is a brass sleeve that slides off with a little rubber o-ring on it, it appears you slide it off, insert the cable (the cable stopper thingie side) and rotate it 180 to keep the cable from popping out. am i missing something, whats to stop that thing from sliding off from a big hit or bit of severe rattling?


----------



## thesmokingman (Jan 17, 2009)

OneUp said:


> Everything except the shims which are delayed until May 14th.
> 
> Cheers,
> Jon @ OneUp


Thanks so much for this product. Now our young middleschool/highschool team can afford droppers. The best part is that since the travel is adjustable, it can fit a variety of riders/bikes which is something that was just out of reach financially before. And I love the replaceable cartridge and the price is great.


----------



## pctloper (Jan 3, 2016)

Does one need the Oneup cable---I want to use my KS trigger and cable if possible to save some coin


----------



## Imho4ep (Jul 20, 2007)

pctloper said:


> Does one need the Oneup cable---I want to use my KS trigger and cable if possible to save some coin


I just used an old spare housing and shiftrr cable


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Hows the remote so far (if anyone is using one yet)? Saw a review talking about how the remote is a little difficult to use. Not sure how it compares but wondering if there something "amazing" that is a better option since its sold separately (a nice thing).

Also, anyone know how much weight it takes to drop the post down? I have a 6yo who is definitely in need of a dropper this year. He is on the MTB training team and I'd hate to see him jacking around with his seat when they do the downhill runs. Not sure if he can effectively use the quick release on the alum seat post.

Problem is that he only weighs like 55lbs, not sure if he's heavy enough to actually compress it. Doesn't feel like a waste of money (as much) since the post can grow with him via the shims.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

svinyard said:


> Hows the remote so far (if anyone is using one yet)? Saw a review talking about how the remote is a little difficult to use. Not sure how it compares but wondering if there something "amazing" that is a better option since its sold separately (a nice thing).
> 
> Also, anyone know how much weight it takes to drop the post down? I have a 6yo who is definitely in need of a dropper this year. He is on the MTB training team and I'd hate to see him jacking around with his seat when they do the downhill runs. Not sure if he can effectively use the quick release on the alum seat post.
> 
> Problem is that he only weighs like 55lbs, not sure if he's heavy enough to actually compress it. Doesn't feel like a waste of money (as much) since the post can grow with him via the shims.


It takes a lot for me to say this because I absolutely hate the company, but it's the last thing of theirs I have on my bike because it works.

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/command-post-srl/p/133087?color=220517-133087


----------



## R_Pierce (May 31, 2017)

TwoTone said:


> It takes a lot for me to say this because I absolutely hate the company, but it's the last thing of theirs I have on my bike because it works.
> 
> https://www.specialized.com/us/en/command-post-srl/p/133087?color=220517-133087


Wolftooth also now makes an ultra light lever so I don't think there would be any issue with the effort it takes to pull the lever.

Sent from my LG-H931 using Tapatalk


----------



## pctloper (Jan 3, 2016)

Cable----note if you buy the dropper you do not get the cable.

I am using my KS above the bar remote as my bike is 2X. Wirh this the cable barrel goes in the remote---with Oneup it goes in the post so a standard cable does not work.

I managed to hack a solution but not what I want. You need some type of barrel on the non barrel end to make this work----


----------



## Red Rock (Sep 12, 2014)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fox-Transf...621598?hash=item2a98a5af5e:g:~U8AAOSwrhhaKGpS


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

So that can works with the Spesh remote?


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

RS VR6 said:


> So that can works with the Spesh remote?


I'll have to find the part for you. It's posted in the long Fox Transfer post. It's a KS part I believe. It's not what was posted above.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

This piece?

https://www.artscyclery.com/Kind_Shock_Lev_Barrel_Cable_Clamp_Each/descpage-KSLEVCBC.html


----------



## pctloper (Jan 3, 2016)

RS VY6--yes this is what I did but it is hooky as it then tends to be in the way when you use the remote---but works and saves 50 bucks----I mean 50 bucks for a remote---someone is making bank and it is not us.


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

Surprised how many people are getting caught up on a remote.

My dropper's remote is an old X9 front shifter converted for dropper use. Ergonomics are excellent!


----------



## Higs (Jul 4, 2017)

Got and installed mine yesterday - went from a 120 BrandX with about 46mm of stanchion sticking to a 170 OneUp, fits perfectly.

However, I found out that it is incredibly sensitive to seat post collar torque - mine doesn't extend fully unless the torque is absolutely correct, and I am having some trouble of getting the sweet spot where I can't rotate the seatpost by hand and it extends fully.

Anyone else seeing this?


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

RS VR6 said:


> This piece?
> 
> https://www.artscyclery.com/Kind_Shock_Lev_Barrel_Cable_Clamp_Each/descpage-KSLEVCBC.html


No
http://forums.mtbr.com/components/fox-transfer-post-1014388-3.html
go to post #118 and 119 that's what I'm using and it works great.

The smaller radius on that part actually fits right into the hole on the Specialized lever.


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Higs said:


> Got and installed mine yesterday - went from a 120 BrandX with about 46mm of stanchion sticking to a 170 OneUp, fits perfectly.
> 
> However, I found out that it is incredibly sensitive to seat post collar torque - mine doesn't extend fully unless the torque is absolutely correct, and I am having some trouble of getting the sweet spot where I can't rotate the seatpost by hand and it extends fully.
> 
> Anyone else seeing this?


This is a huge failing point of many dropper posts. The fact that you can't have the bolt more than hand-tightened is ridiculous on many posts. This is one of those areas of a bike that WILL see new standards, because the old way of doing things is not sufficient. Worked fine for non-dropper posts, but with droppers, this never seems to work out. It eventually helps to wear down the post and then it stops returning. Many of these work ok when new, but this becomes the failure point and having to run the thing so loose that it shifts all over the place or will collapse on a hard impact is not acceptable.


----------



## thesmokingman (Jan 17, 2009)

Throw some carbon paste at it, though it will mar the alu up.


----------



## Atmos312 (Oct 12, 2017)

Anyone else get theirs and have some initial thoughts about the quality? 

I have a Fox transfer that's still in the box and I'm debating on returning it and getting this one instead.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Atmos312 said:


> Anyone else get theirs and have some initial thoughts about the quality?
> 
> I have a Fox transfer that's still in the box and I'm debating on returning it and getting this one instead.


I have held off because I am tired of being the R&D department for these small companies.

My Reverb is back at Squish Dynamics AGAIN to see if he can figure out the slow return AGAIN. If anyone can fix it, it's Andrew - he's amazing. I'm going to see how it turns out, but if it still sucks I am just going to grab a Manic or Highline and use one of those, until OneUp gets some real consumer reviews.


----------



## pctloper (Jan 3, 2016)

Rode with my new oneup today----worked just as it should--no issues --but then again only one ride.

But the KS post I removed was totally corroded. All the coating was gone which is why the thing stuck in my Pivot frame.

Hoping for a better experience---good so far.


----------



## beer_coffee_water (Mar 1, 2011)

Higs said:


> Got and installed mine yesterday - went from a 120 BrandX with about 46mm of stanchion sticking to a 170 OneUp, fits perfectly.
> 
> However, I found out that it is incredibly sensitive to seat post collar torque - mine doesn't extend fully unless the torque is absolutely correct, and I am having some trouble of getting the sweet spot where I can't rotate the seatpost by hand and it extends fully.
> 
> Anyone else seeing this?


Just got mine installed and it did not have this problem. I can't wait to get back on trail with dropper. This will be the first time on my new bike due to different seatpost tube diameters. The only thing it does so far that I don't like is there is an occassional small squeak when lightly pressing on the remote for a slow return. I can only compare it to a Reverb but the OneUp is smoother and easier to actuate. I also enjoy the 170mm vs 125mm. Currently I have a Transfer remote running it as well. I'll move to the OneUp remote most likely.

I have used a Transfer in a parking lot test, it also seemed much better than a Reverb. Going by my limited experience with both I would say they are equal in function. OneUp's warranty is double, comes in 170 and has adjustable travel. I spoke with the OneUp guys a long time at Sea Otter. The rep stated they cartridge they use is a widely used unit appearing is about 80% of similar products to quote him. After our lengthy conversation I decided on going with OneUp.


----------



## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

OneUp said:


> Sorry for the delay in getting on here. Couldn't comment before the official release and PB comment section goes mental
> 
> Yes, The cartridge is a user replaceable, sealed gas/hydraulic unit. warranty on the unit is 2 years. Replacement cost after warranty is $80.
> 
> ...


For international buyers, what's the warranty procedure? Am I going to have to ship the post back at my considerable expense and wait several weeks to recieve the new cartridge? Or is it just send some photos/videos and recieve a new cartridge in the mail?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Imho4ep said:


> ok so this came out just as i was about to "drop" another post in my basket, took a chance.
> installed it last night but one thing that is a bit perplexing, the post side connection? there is a brass sleeve that slides off with a little rubber o-ring on it, it appears you slide it off, insert the cable (the cable stopper thingie side) and rotate it 180 to keep the cable from popping out. am i missing something, whats to stop that thing from sliding off from a big hit or bit of severe rattling?


You need to keep the slide in place and insert the cable nipple from the side. The housing ferrule will them slide into the bottom of the slide. We're working on a video. Sorry for the delay...



pctloper said:


> Does one need the Oneup cable---I want to use my KS trigger and cable if possible to save some coin


Any remote with the cable nipple at the post end will work.



GRPABT1 said:


> For international buyers, what's the warranty procedure? Am I going to have to ship the post back at my considerable expense and wait several weeks to recieve the new cartridge? Or is it just send some photos/videos and recieve a new cartridge in the mail?


We have warehouses in the UK, US and Canada. If the issue is obvious via photo/video we'll typically dispatch a replacement part and an RA. Once you receive the new part you will just send back the old one. We aim to limit downtime when possible.


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

I received mine this week having ordered within 2 mins of receiving the email, it was just too good a price and looked too tempting not to order it there and then!

Looking forward to running it on my Pivot Les, a bike I never once thought I'd be able to run a 170mm dropper on, but the measurements work out, just have to work out the route to go through the frame now...


----------



## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

Is the clamp for the cable on the dropper or on the lever? Trying to figure out wether or not I'd need to buy a remote or use my existing one.


----------



## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

OneUp said:


> We have warehouses in the UK, US and Canada. If the issue is obvious via photo/video we'll typically dispatch a replacement part and an RA. Once you receive the new part you will just send back the old one. We aim to limit downtime when possible.


Well I'm in Australia so I guess considering no dropper post is ever infallible I'll stick to something I can repair myself.


----------



## Lithified (Apr 14, 2007)

Vegard said:


> Is the clamp for the cable on the dropper or on the lever? Trying to figure out wether or not I'd need to buy a remote or use my existing one.


Cable barrel is on the post actuator. Bare cable end at the lever. You need a lever that can clamp a bare cable end.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Vegard said:


> Is the clamp for the cable on the dropper or on the lever? Trying to figure out wether or not I'd need to buy a remote or use my existing one.


Cable ball end is at the post. Clamp is at the lever. Just like a Wolftooth remote.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

GRPABT1 said:


> Well I'm in Australia so I guess considering no dropper post is ever infallible I'll stick to something I can repair myself.


We also stock with MTBdirect in Aus. They will be carrying service parts. A cartridge swap is about as easy as it gets (and covered for 2 years).

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

Just fitted mine this afternoon. Very impressed so far...


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Just J said:


> Just fitted mine this afternoon. Very impressed so far...


Cool! Hows the lever? That is the only thing I've heard mixed reviews of...though it seems like almost all dropper levers are a bit goofy in their action.


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

svinyard said:


> Cool! Hows the lever? That is the only thing I've heard mixed reviews of...though it seems like almost all dropper levers are a bit goofy in their action.


Well I can compare it to the Fox Transfer (not a great lever but never a big issue for me) which I swapped out for a Wolftooth Remote which is as good as everyone says. I have the latest Reverb lever on another bike which is fantastic, a massive improvement over the previous button.

The OneUp lever is nice enough, looks and feels great, has a light enough push. But I suppose it's nearest rival is the Wolftooth Remote, which it doesn't feel as high a quality as. I can't see it being an issue though but there is a little slack in the levers' return to position, a bit of play.

As long as the dropper works well over the course of it's life then I see no reason to buy another kind, the action is perfect and it's definitely a quality item. So much easier to fit than a Reverb, lighter and with a lower profile in the frame. One thing worth noting is that it actually only has 165mm of travel compared to the advertised 170mm. I'm not the only person that has found this to be true but then again I'm not one to quibble over 5mm either...


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Great, thanks man. The lever is nice and close to the Wolftooth. Weird that isn't a full 170mm. I wonder if there is some stock shim or something in there preventing the full 170?


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

svinyard said:


> Great, thanks man. The lever is nice and close to the Wolftooth. Weird that isn't a full 170mm. I wonder if there is some stock shim or something in there preventing the full 170?


Hey, no problem! 

Yeah I was wondering the same, hopefully One Up might be able to chime in...


----------



## Imho4ep (Jul 20, 2007)

Just J said:


> I can't see it being an issue though but there is a little slack in the levers' return to position, a bit of play..


Im assuming you tried tightening the barrel adjuster to remove the play?


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

Imho4ep said:


> Im assuming you tried tightening the barrel adjuster to remove the play?


Yes but when I say play, it's hard to describe what I mean.

So basically, when you've pressed the lever, it comes back but not fluidly, there's a pause before snapping back lightly into position. It's not a problem or a fault though, it's just how it is.


----------



## briantortilla (Jun 18, 2009)

OneUp, is the internal cartridge rebuildable at all? KS claims that theirs is not but I have rebuilt mine twice. Once the two year warranty us up would it be possible to pull the cartridge apart to re-bleed it? Throwing away an entire cartridge seems like a huge waste when the post eventually develops some sag.


----------



## thesmokingman (Jan 17, 2009)

briantortilla said:


> OneUp, is the internal cartridge rebuildable at all? KS claims that theirs is not but I have rebuilt mine twice. Once the two year warranty us up would it be possible to pull the cartridge apart to re-bleed it? Throwing away an entire cartridge seems like a huge waste when the post eventually develops some sag.


From the literature the cartridge is replaceable at $80. Or did you mean instead of replacing the cartridge and rebuilding it instead? That I don't know.


----------



## briantortilla (Jun 18, 2009)

thesmokingman said:


> From the literature the cartridge is replaceable at $80. Or did you mean instead of replacing the cartridge and rebuilding it instead? That I don't know.


I said rebuildable for a reason.


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

briantortilla said:


> I said rebuildable for a reason.


Buy one and let us know.


----------



## briantortilla (Jun 18, 2009)

My god you people are dense. My question is clearly addressed to the OneUp rep who has been posting on this thread.


----------



## R_Pierce (May 31, 2017)

briantortilla said:


> My god you people are dense. My question is clearly addressed to the OneUp rep who has been posting on this thread.


Someone is having a bad day.

Sent from my LG-H931 using Tapatalk


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

briantortilla said:


> My god you people are dense. My question is clearly addressed to the OneUp rep who has been posting on this thread.


Nah, not dense. Just trolling because you are acting like a dick.


----------



## briantortilla (Jun 18, 2009)

R_Pierce said:


> Someone is having a bad day.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H931 using Tapatalk


Bad day indeed. I just want a user serviceable post. Throwing away a sagging cartridge because it is out of warranty seems like a waste. 2 years is a descent warranty on the cartridge, but all IFP designs eventually ingest air and need a re-bleed. I was considering the Bike Yoke Revive, but the OneUp is considerably less expensive.


----------



## SoCal-Rider (May 25, 2009)

Whatcha got under the saddle? A Tubolito and some kind of pump? Ever had to use the Tubolito? I've been trying to find the Tubolito for months without success.



Just J said:


> Just fitted mine this afternoon. Very impressed so far...


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

SoCal-Rider said:


> Whatcha got under the saddle? A Tubolito and some kind of pump? Ever had to use the Tubolito? I've been trying to find the Tubolito for months without success.


Yeah it's a Tubolito S-Tubo lightweight tube, never had to use it yet (knock on wood!) but I haven't had to use an inner tube on a mountain bike for a long long time, mainly thanks to the black thing you see there which is a Dynaplug Racer tyre repair plug thingymagig. 

You can buy Tubolito tubes online but if you can't find them you could approach them directly like I did. I carry their tubes on all my bikes nowadays.


----------



## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

OneUp said:


> We also stock with MTBdirect in Aus. They will be carrying service parts. A cartridge swap is about as easy as it gets (and covered for 2 years).
> 
> Jon @ OneUp


Well in that case if the cartridge is really only $80 US then I may consider it.


----------



## Lithified (Apr 14, 2007)

GRPABT1 said:


> Well in that case if the cartridge is really only $80 US then I may consider it.


Ya I mean these guys are basically saying here for $200 you'll have a working post for two years. After that, it may possibly could be another $80 for another couple of years of shreddin. Compared to what, $350 for pretty much any other post? Win.

What's there to complain about? 

Mounting mine up on Thursday when my frame delivers. Only thing that is worrying me is not having that shim yet....gonna be tight!!

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## R_Pierce (May 31, 2017)

Lithified said:


> Ya I mean these guys are basically saying here for $200 you'll have a working post for two years. After that, it may possibly could be another $80 for another couple of years of shreddin. Compared to what, $350 for pretty much any other post? Win.
> 
> What's there to complain about?
> 
> ...


Agreed! Now if I could just convince my ex to buy me one with that large child support payment 

Sent from my LG-H931 using Tapatalk


----------



## Krigloch (Aug 9, 2011)

Seriously considering this post over the Bikeyoke, only because of the price.
Buddy of mine should have his delivered today. 
Not many reviews up yet. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Looks like the posts are on back order now. If they are selling that fast, there will undoubtedly be some reviews soon.


----------



## Higs (Jul 4, 2017)

Fixed my clamping issues with just using a different clamp for now, stoked


----------



## pctloper (Jan 3, 2016)

I have 3 rides on the new post and it has been perfect----no complaints. Running 150 in my Pivot 429T---a 170 would fit that bike .


----------



## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

For those who have em, how do they feel? My Revive is super smooth with a light lever feel.


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

Travis Bickle said:


> For those who have em, how do they feel? My Revive is super smooth with a light lever feel.


I'd say mine feels super smooth with a light lever feel.


----------



## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

We have some in the shop and I'm looking forward to trying one out.


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

Travis Bickle said:


> We have some in the shop and I'm looking forward to trying one out.


Honestly it's at least as nice to use as a Transfer and so much better than the Transfer's standard lever.


----------



## Higs (Jul 4, 2017)

Travis Bickle said:


> For those who have em, how do they feel? My Revive is super smooth with a light lever feel.


Tried several BrandX/TranzX/Reverbs before. So far it seems absolutely solid, motion is smooth and fast, no side-to-side wiggle. Mine is quite sensitive to clamp torque (170mm slammed to collar).

The lever is a bit less smooth and has less travel overall than the Easton Alt+Shift I used before, but is hidden away below the brake better. No complaints there, not ever worth comparing with most other supplied levers.

The kicker is the price though. I paid 202eur for the whole package (170mm dropper and separate clamp lever). That is on par or even lower than a Ascend XL, while the post itself looks to be much higher quality and easier to operate and install.


----------



## Lithified (Apr 14, 2007)

Bolted mine up to a new build today. Pairing it with a Wolftooth Remote. Thankfully my math wasn't as bad as I thought and not only did the full 170 fit (Large 2018 Banshee Prime) but I had about 10mm to play with. So OneUp I am no longer mad at you for not having a small little plastic part available for shipping with the post. But it's still ridiculous 

Very easy set up though. This thing took about 4oz of brain power to install. Very nice. Shakedown ride on the new bike tonight.

EDIT: Had several things I stopped to adjust tonight but this seatpost wasn't one of them. Smooth action with the wolftooth (a very definite "ok it's engaged" feel), no rotational movement like my LEVs have had, good return with the stock air pressure (didn't even check this) and most of all NOT ONE CREAK at the saddle.


----------



## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Had some emails with OneUp and install and service videos should be up in 2-3 weeks. Planning a new bike at the end of the year and this post is on my short list. Typically prefer posts I can rebuild all of the internals but if the cartridge is reliable then for the cost of this compared to a Bike Yoke I won’t mind!


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

I'm looking to get a dropper on the cheap. This has definitely caught my eye. It's this or a Brand X XL dropper. 

Brand X is $173 and comes with everything needed. Oneup is $250 with the remote, but doesn't come with all the cables, nuts etc. About how much more money to get everything I need? 

Both have two year warranties. Oneup has 20mm (or maybe 15mm) more drop, which isn't a big deal to me. I think 150mm will be enough. Oneup has nicer lever. I won't need the shim feature, but it is nice to have as a future option.

I'm not sure if the Oneup is worth the extra money. Decisions, decisions.


----------



## Higs (Jul 4, 2017)

richulr said:


> Oneup is $250 with the remote, but doesn't come with all the cables, nuts etc.


Not sure where you got the idea about lacking cables - mine had everything included with it (having ordered dropper+remote), didn't have to use any extras.

Personally I've moved from a BrandX(non XL) with a different remote to OneUp and am happy with it. Keep in mid that the remote that comes with BX is incredibly basic.


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

I watched an unboxing and installation video and he starts off by saying he had to go back to the bike store to get cables since it didn't come with any. And on Jenson under in the box it only lists seatpost and manual.


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

Looks like all the cables come with the remote on Jenson.


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

Mine came with everything apart from a ferule end cap for the exposed wire at the remote end. That's fine, I have like 500 I bought 12 years ago!

The only downside I found with the supplied stuff, was the Sram Matchmaker parts came with a bolt that was far too long, again I had a spare SRAM OE one in my spares so no worries there.


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

I have a few miles on mine now and I love it, the lever feels light but positive, the dropper action is smooth and precise and the 170/165mm drop opens up plenty of options. Not only that but it looks awesome too and I much prefer it over my Reverbs and Transfer posts. One Up have knocked it out the park on this, I definitely recommend!


----------



## 251 (May 13, 2008)

I recently put a 30.9/150mm drop One Up post on my newly-built Trance paired with one of the Giant under-bar levers. I have a couple other droppers, and this one seems pretty nice and a good value (as is the Giant lever). It also saved me from having to size down to a 125mm post or finding a saddle with a really low stack height. I've only ridden it a few times, so we'll have to see how it holds up. :thumbsup:


----------



## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I installed one yesterday on a bike at the shop. Installation was easy and the post is fairly smooth with a fast but not violent return. Not as smooth as my Revive, but not as pricey either.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

when the dropper is fully compressed down, is the stack height really 37mm?

can someone confirm for me please?


----------



## 251 (May 13, 2008)

useport80 said:


> when the dropper is fully compressed down, is the stack height really 37mm?


Looks about right.


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Krigloch said:


> Seriously considering this post over the Bikeyoke


If it helps with your decision, a buddy recently broke his Bikeyoke just below the seat mount head. No crash involved.


----------



## thesmokingman (Jan 17, 2009)

^^Damn!


----------



## whiteox (Aug 11, 2009)

I received my 31.6 150 dropper in the mail yesterday, I can vouch for mtbdirect in Australia they were awesome. 

Don’t have the bike for it yet but I decided to install the full cable length, remote and a saddle and gave it a whirl.. so much better than my previous reverb with 1x remote, lighter and looks to be very well made. Cable and remote attachment process was a 20 second job, well done OneUp! 

The only concern I may have is for the longevity of the stanchion seal, when fully dropped the lip rises up onto the flared section and stretches it out.. Anyone see this being an issue with dirt, mud, water ingress over time? Or is it worth putting in ~3mm of shim to keep the seal lip on the machined stanchion area?


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

man i can't wait for the travel spacer to come in stock. putting in an order immediately


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

What's the actuator sticking out at the bottom like? I want one of these for my wife's bike as it only has very minimal insertion length thanks to a silly kink in the seat tube. Wondering if the actuator actually takes up room or can bend a bit to stick into the "kinked" section. I think it's like 35mm right? The posted is listed at 410mm but that doesn't include the actuator I think. Anyone with one of these have any thoughts?

My wife's bike is a LIV Embolden if that helps. Was going to get her a crappy external post 125mm but have decided to drill a small hole and convert to internal and go with 150mm OneUp. Similar cost and more travel, well hopefully


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

svinyard said:


> What's the actuator sticking out at the bottom like? I want one of these for my wife's bike as it only has very minimal insertion length thanks to a silly kink in the seat tube. Wondering if the actuator actually takes up room or can bend a bit to stick into the "kinked" section. I think it's like 35mm right? The posted is listed at 410mm but that doesn't include the actuator I think. Anyone with one of these have any thoughts?
> 
> My wife's bike is a LIV Embolden if that helps. Was going to get her a crappy external post 125mm but have decided to drill a small hole and convert to internal and go with 150mm OneUp. Similar cost and more travel, well hopefully


There is a little bit of wiggle play on the actuator so you might be in luck. I wouldn't like to put too much of a kink in there though.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

svinyard said:


> What's the actuator sticking out at the bottom like? I want one of these for my wife's bike as it only has very minimal insertion length thanks to a silly kink in the seat tube. Wondering if the actuator actually takes up room or can bend a bit to stick into the "kinked" section. I think it's like 35mm right? The posted is listed at 410mm but that doesn't include the actuator I think. Anyone with one of these have any thoughts?
> 
> My wife's bike is a LIV Embolden if that helps. Was going to get her a crappy external post 125mm but have decided to drill a small hole and convert to internal and go with 150mm OneUp. Similar cost and more travel, well hopefully


im kinda worried about this also. my bike is a size small, with a kink in the seatpost as well. right now i have a 9point8 with a lower leg tube of 190-200mm and it fits fine.

[email protected] said the actuator portion of the dropper is 32mm.

once the travel shims come in stock, i'll be ordering a oneup dropper and HOPEFULLY it fits.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

This is my wifes bike. You can notice the kink. The actuator is pretty narrow so much hope is that it being narrow to a point will allow it to slipe into the kink section without needing any bending. I'm feeling positive about it. We'll see I guess.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

On a side note, the bike above has a 2X drive train with separate clamps for shifter and shimano M315 brakes (long levers). Do you think I could somehow use the OneUp remote with that setup and just slide the other clamps in and mount the OneUp remote for now.... or would it just be a cluster? I'd love to get her off the 2X setup and onto an XT 11sp but have spent so much money on bikes lately I'm hitting my limit lol.

Pics of left 2X/Brake handlebar setup below:


----------



## Cerpss (Sep 13, 2015)

svinyard said:


> On a side note, the bike above has a 2X drive train with separate clamps for shifter and shimano M315 brakes (long levers). Do you think I could somehow use the OneUp remote with that setup and just slide the other clamps in and mount the OneUp remote for now.... or would it just be a cluster? I'd love to get her off the 2X setup and onto an XT 11sp but have spent so much money on bikes lately I'm hitting my limit lol.]


Is there enough room to flip it upside down and put it above the shifter on the right side? I did this with a Specialized SRL lever on my fatty while I ran 2x drivetrain. I run SRAM drivetrain so I didn't have the gear indicator to worry about like on your Shimano


----------



## whiteox (Aug 11, 2009)

Just a heads up for anyone with Hope brakes, the matchmaker adapter for the tech 3 won’t work with the oneup lever. The oneup adaptor replaces the everything to the SRAM brake lever with an alloy block that the lever bolts to. I’ll probably use a spare SRAM clamp with the matchmaker adaptor next to the tech 3 lever until I either macgyver something or just try and get the standard mount.


----------



## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

Another heads up: I just failed to install this post, and the problem came down to the fact that the lowest point of the actuator moves up and down with lever movement. When the actuator moves up, it pulls the housing up with it, and then the housing drops down as the lever is released. In the case of my GG Megatrail, the housing kept binding on the insertion hole instead of moving in and out freely. 

I don't think the actuator's movement would be an issue for full-internal routing, but on my frame the housing runs externally until it passes into a hole in the side of the seat tube, and the frame is not designed for free housing movement in and out of that hole.


----------



## RBoardman (Dec 27, 2014)

I had some issues with install. This black cap that goes over the cable housing gets inserted into the post actuator and is what causes it to engage. But since it only sticks in very slightly, it is very easy to come out, say if the housing bends against the frame as you are inserting the seatpost into the frame or pulling on the other side of the cable housing to remove the slack. After 2 failed attempts, I added some super glue as seen here. One of the times I was even riding my bike around for a while before it failed on my. (Not too sure how or why that happened) Even though I got it working, I am worried it can become dislodged (superglue is no longer there) while I am riding. Nothing worse that flying down a trail and having your dropper come shooting up.

Did I do something wrong?


----------



## whiteox (Aug 11, 2009)

I think it's important to keep tension on the inner cable during installation. I temporarily installed the lever at the full cable length to keep the tension, and then pulled the post back up 150mm and cut the housing and cable to length. This is described in the instructions on the oneup website and it's a good method. My cable came free the first time, and I ended up replacing that o-ring with a thicker tighter fitting one as mine was quite loose. I think yours should be above the lip to stop the cable end coming out of the hole.

I'd suggest checking out the installation guide on their website if you haven't already, it's very useful.

Edit: link added

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/pages/dropper-post-installation-instructions


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Has OneUp made their install video yet? This stuff should be clearly explained in a nice vid. It doesn't take long tweak up something.


----------



## RBoardman (Dec 27, 2014)

Rode with it for the first time today and it felt great. As good as any post I’ve used before.


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

svinyard said:


> Has OneUp made their install video yet? This stuff should be clearly explained in a nice vid. It doesn't take long tweak up something.


Thay said they were working on one shortly after it was released. I am not in marketing, but my wife is so I hear marketing BS all the time. From my under-educated marketing view, this has been a pretty poor job on their part. How do you not have videos and install instructions WITH photos on day one?



whiteox said:


> My cable came free the first time, and I ended up replacing that o-ring with a thicker tighter fitting one as mine was quite loose. I think yours should be above the lip to stop the cable end coming out of the hole. [/url]


Is there enough space to cinch a small zip tie down really tight instead of using an o-ring? Seems like that would supply more pressure.


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> How do you not have videos and install instructions WITH photos on day one?


The same way they didn't have a $0.50 part available that is critical to one of the most hyped features. Well, actually they charge $10. But it sure looks like $0.50.


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Velodonata said:


> The same way they didn't have a $0.50 part available that is critical to one of the most hyped features. Well, actually they charge $10. But it sure looks like $0.50.


Agreed. Which was my point. It seemed rushed, unprepared, and Bush league.


----------



## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

hey guys, they had to have it released before sea otter, we should all understand why they would have something rushed and not completely finished to sell!


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

I don't care about the lack of info for the release. I'm stoked the product is nice. But geez it's been a month... where is the install vids they mentioned?

That shim for 10$ is baloney tho lol. Regardless if it works, I'm really really happy to pay for it. (tall guy here)


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

I had asked earlier about getting the post to slam into a short seat tube that has a kink in it. Well I saw this review (quoted below), it's of a similar bike to my wife's but not the same. It does seem like the 32mm actuator is kind of a hindrance if your bike doesn't have room. Specifically due to the actuator needing even more room than 32mm as it's pulled down to actuate. (I'm not 100% sure that's correct but the reviewer mentioned it). It's all good for my own RM bike and it's luxurious seat tube. It's also a bit ambiguous as it's not part of the stock dimensions that people measure against.



> I bought this for my wife's XS Liv Lust (Giant.) After getting it installed the post would not actuate, turns out the mechanism on the bottom needs room to pull downward. with the post fully slammed into the frame it runs into one of the link pivots. I have to raise the post substantially to get it to actuate and even with the post in the lowered position it is over 3" taller than the trusty yet dated gravity dropper it replaced. Because of this I can't get my wife to proper pedaling height with the post in the LOW position, high position and she can't even reach the pedals. It seems very well made but this appears to be an oversight for smaller bikes and shorter riders. BEWARE of this before buying for small frames. I ordered direct from OneUp so hopefully they'll accept the return.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Side note: I'm building out a new carbon frame (my first build) and need to put the bike on my BikeHand stand. The stand has a kind of rubber clamp on it. So how do I get my bike on a bike stand once its all done for maintenance? Do I just clamp to the stantion of the OneUp dropper? Or should I remove the dropper, put in a temp alum seat post and clamp to that instead? (Not sure if I can even do that with cabling etc).

Thoughts?


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

svinyard said:


> Side note: I'm building out a new carbon frame (my first build) and need to put the bike on my BikeHand stand. The stand has a kind of rubber clamp on it. So how do I get my bike on a bike stand once its all done for maintenance? Do I just clamp to the stantion of the OneUp dropper? Or should I remove the dropper, put in a temp alum seat post and clamp to that instead? (Not sure if I can even do that with cabling etc).
> 
> Thoughts?


I always clamp to the dropper. But I also insist on owning non hydraulic droppers.


----------



## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

I always clamp as well, just make sure there isn't too much torque in the dropper, let the bike drop the front wheel and stay in sort of a rested position


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Great, thanks guys!


----------



## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

RBoardman said:


> I had some issues with install. This black cap that goes over the cable housing gets inserted into the post actuator and is what causes it to engage. But since it only sticks in very slightly, it is very easy to come out, say if the housing bends against the frame as you are inserting the seatpost into the frame or pulling on the other side of the cable housing to remove the slack. After 2 failed attempts, I added some super glue as seen here. One of the times I was even riding my bike around for a while before it failed on my. (Not too sure how or why that happened) Even though I got it working, I am worried it can become dislodged (superglue is no longer there) while I am riding. Nothing worse that flying down a trail and having your dropper come shooting up.
> 
> Did I do something wrong?





whiteox said:


> I think it's important to keep tension on the inner cable during installation. I temporarily installed the lever at the full cable length to keep the tension, and then pulled the post back up 150mm and cut the housing and cable to length. This is described in the instructions on the oneup website and it's a good method. My cable came free the first time, and I ended up replacing that o-ring with a thicker tighter fitting one as mine was quite loose. I think yours should be above the lip to stop the cable end coming out of the hole.
> 
> I'd suggest checking out the installation guide on their website if you haven't already, it's very useful.
> 
> ...


This is the same basic construction as the Wolftooth conversion for the Reverb. As @whiteox noted, you simply have to keep some measure of tension on the cable/housing as you go. Either clamp it to the remote, or gingerly use a 4th hand with a lock on it. Push the dropper down/gently pull the housing through the exit hole, wherever that may be.

In practice, there should be zero issues. The actuation stroke shouldn't allow the housing to unseat, unless it was hung up on something. Also, and for what it's worth, I would use a metal ferrule on the end of a dynamic piece of housing (since it moves, you see...), as it will prove to be more durable in the long run. Wheels MFG sells brass/aluminum ferrules, or Shimano has a sealed aluminum ferrule option. Metal housing ferrules tend to be a tighter fit, too, if you desire that--but they can be difficult to remove later; spread a thin layer of grease over the ferrule's outside.

*edit* to specific ally answer your question: when the cable is properly 'tensioned' (that is, no slack at rest), it's not possible for it to come out of the actuator.


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

mfa81 said:


> I always clamp as well, just make sure there isn't too much torque in the dropper, let the bike drop the front wheel and stay in sort of a rested position


I don't worry about that much either. As a 210# rider, I am putting far greater torque on the seat post than my 30# bike hanging from it.


----------



## gleetrevino (Aug 28, 2014)

I tried to install one a couple of days ago with the post fully extended and was having the same issues with the ferrule until I had a Homer Simpson moment of clarity and pushed it back in, reinstalled and it worked perfectly. Their instructions should relate that an install will not work while the post is extended. The biggest install issue I found is that in order to cut the housing to the proper length you need to have the seat installed and the post at your desired riding height before moving on to the complete install. I installed the 150mm on a 2015 Trek Fuel EX8 17.5 and the post bottoms out in the seat tube at nearly the perfect height (maybe have 1/2 inch to play with) and if I were one inch shorter than 5'9 I'm not sure this post would have worked. The current install instructions need to be further refined. The other posts regarding the shim are spot on, this item should be shipped with the post, I paid $6.09 for shipping plus tax for the $10 piece of plastic.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

It'd be awesome if one of you guys could throw up a video of the install nuances. OneUp is sticking with the written instructions for now.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

i finished installing the dropper earlier today and went for a ride. sorry i forgot to take a video.

my previous post was a 9point8 fall line. and i used the same wolftooth remote for the oneup dropper.

here are some things i noticed:
1) install was fairly simple. i used the same housing, but used a new inner cable since the inner cable was smashed at the end on the wolftooth remote and it was difficult to pull the inner cable through the housing. so i ended up cutting the inner cable and removing it.

2) the cable pull seems quite short. with my 9point8, i could push the lever all the way down, and it was very light to push. now with the oneup dropper, it seems much harder to push and the total distance of lever travel is much shorter, probably 1/3 of the total wolftooth remote range of motion. doesn't seem to hamper the usage of the oneup dropper though. im going to add some triflow to the inner cable and see if that helps.

3) yeti says the seatpost collar should be 5nm and thats what i've been using for the past couple years. if i fasten the seatpost collar to 5nm, the oneup dropper will not fully extend. it'll extend about 20mm. i tried 3nm, and same thing. i tried 2.5nm and it's a lil slow to extend, but it does extend fully. lastly i tried 2nm and it seems to extend quickly and the seatpost doesn't rotate in the seattube, so i guess i'll be sticking with that.

4) i didn't bother checking the psi of the post

5) the spacer installation was pretty simple as well, the official oneup video was pretty spot on

6) performance wise, the post worked well

7) those that had issues with the housing slipping out, i recommend just maintain tension on the inner cable and it should help keep the dropper pulled down onto the outer housing

8) im surprised the actuator only has a lil rubber oring to prevent the cable end from falling out.


----------



## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

svinyard said:


> It does seem like the 32mm actuator is kind of a hindrance if your bike doesn't have room. Specifically due to the actuator needing even more room than 32mm as it's pulled down to actuate.


Just FYI, the bottom of the actuator (along with the housing) is actually pulled up on actuation, while the cable end stays static. That was the cause of my install problem, as the housing needs to be able to move up and down freely in the seat tube.


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

Just installed mine on my hardtail. Got the 170mm to replace the 125mm that came on the bike which was way too short (I'm 6'5"). I'm not a huge fan of how the cable attaches to the actuator but seems fine so far. The post feels super solid, like it literally feels like a solid seat-post. I got the OneUp lever and it seems alright except for the overly textured thumb contact point. I think I'd prefer a wolftooth or similar lever though which seems a bit more natural.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

jeremy3220 said:


> Just installed mine on my hardtail. Got the 170mm to replace the 125mm that came on the bike which was way too short (I'm 6'5"). I'm not a huge fan of how the cable attaches to the actuator but seems fine so far. The post feels super solid, like it literally feels like a solid seat-post. I got the OneUp lever and it seems alright except for the overly textured thumb contact point. I think I'd prefer a wolftooth or similar lever though which seems a bit more natural.


Is it just the texture of the remote or is the action of a wolftooth that much better? I can live with the texture but I'm hoping the action is up to par with wolftooth


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

svinyard said:


> Is it just the texture of the remote or is the action of a wolftooth that much better? I can live with the texture but I'm hoping the action is up to par with wolftooth


the lever range of motion is shorter and firmer with the oneup+wolftooth versus 9point8+wolftooth and tranx+wolftooth and fox+wolftooth.

oneup rep confirmed that the dropper was designed for that ROM and firmness.

i can take a video if you like, but it'll likely be 2morrow or monday.


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

svinyard said:


> Is it just the texture of the remote or is the action of a wolftooth that much better? I can live with the texture but I'm hoping the action is up to par with wolftooth


Well the texture is enough to hurt my thumb but don't notice it much wearing gloves. I slightly prefer the remotes styled after down shift levers. The OneUp remote functions more like an up shift lever. Honestly that's me splitting hairs. I rode today and mostly forgot about it.


----------



## slowpoker (Jun 4, 2008)

Just ordered a 170. Backcountry has a 20% off code that actually works, unlike jenson. $159.20 w/ free shipping.


----------



## richulr (Jan 27, 2010)

I've got one on backorder and they told me either late June or even early July to get it. I'm considering cancelling the order and going with the SDG dropper. I'd be losing a little bit of travel, but I'm not sure I'd miss it. Oneup's pricing is very disappointing. $10 for a cheap plastic shim is ridiculous. And they're asking $80 for a new cartridge whereas SDG is only charging $45. Decisions decisions


----------



## slowpoker (Jun 4, 2008)

richulr said:


> I've got one on backorder and they told me either late June or even early July to get it. I'm considering cancelling the order and going with the SDG dropper. I'd be losing a little bit of travel, but I'm not sure I'd miss it. Oneup's pricing is very disappointing. $10 for a cheap plastic shim is ridiculous. And they're asking $80 for a new cartridge whereas SDG is only charging $45. Decisions decisions


Have you looked elsewhere for a oneup? The one I ordered from backcountry with 20% off was in stock with free 2 day air shipping.

*edit- Well, looks like everyone sold out in the last couple of days. Dayum. Backcountry, universal, and jenson all had some last weekend.


----------



## JCordell (Sep 25, 2017)

Looking to pair this with a Wolf Tooth remote. Would you guys go regular remote or the Light Action?


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

JCordell said:


> Looking to pair this with a Wolf Tooth remote. Would you guys go regular remote or the Light Action?


light action for sure. the dropper requires more force to actuate, so the LA would help with gaining more leverage.

i have a LA remote and it's much harder to actuate than my 9point8 dropper


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Is it a pain to actuate the OneUp or not that big of a deal?


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

svinyard said:


> Is it a pain to actuate the OneUp or not that big of a deal?


I find it easy to actuate. I'm using the One Up lever and it's a really nice action. I have a Fox Transfer on my Switchblade and I use a standard Wolftooth Remote that isn't as easy to actuate.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

it's not an issue for me, I only noticed the actuation and range of motion difference

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

slowpoker said:


> Have you looked elsewhere for a oneup? The one I ordered from backcountry with 20% off was in stock with free 2 day air shipping.
> 
> *edit- Well, looks like everyone sold out in the last couple of days. Dayum. Backcountry, universal, and jenson all had some last weekend.


5 week wait AFAIK.


----------



## slowpoker (Jun 4, 2008)

stripes said:


> 5 week wait AFAIK.


Guess I just got lucky. Ordered 30.9x170 last Sunday and got it Thursday. The only catch is that backcountry didn't have any remotes. Worldwide Cyclery had a 15% code that worked on the remote, but it wasn't in stock. Bought it last Sunday, also, and got an email from them today saying they would have it by end of next week. It's slightly annoying to have post in hand and not be able to use it, but I think it will be worth the wait to get post and remote for about $201.


----------



## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

Hi, @oneup, is it possible to lift bike by seaddle when seatpost in lover possition? To put bike on chair lift or so? Will it be ok for cartridge? ( Bike will be holding on the seaddle for 20 min)


As far as I'm aware for example:
9point8/rf - possible due to construction
Reverb - no


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Nick_M said:


> Hi, @oneup, is it possible to lift bike by seaddle when seatpost in lover possition? To put bike on chair lift or so? Will it be ok for cartridge? ( Bike will be holding on the seaddle for 20 min)
> 
> As far as I'm aware for example:
> 9point8/rf - possible due to construction
> Reverb - no


Hey Nick,

This is not recommended for any cartridge or IFP based system. It is obviously fine if the seat is full up however.

One note, 9.8 and RF turbine can be hung by the saddle. RF Aeffect can not.

I hope that helps,
Jon


----------



## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

Thank you very much for quick and valuable reply,


However that make my choice even harder


----------



## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

Another quick question is it possible to install following dropper with RF turbine lever? , assuming that cable will be tightened with cable stop barrel on the lever end


----------



## slamc (Jun 13, 2018)

Hi

I have installed oneup dropper (170mm 31.6) and noticed play in the post when trying to push the saddle by hand. There is minimal left/right and also fore/aft play. I had a test ride and don't notice any movement while riding. Have contacted oneup (sent a video) and received the following answer 
''At full extension we have found that all (OneUp included) 170 or longer post can be moved slightly fore/aft when pushed by hand, off the bike. It's very slight but noticeable if you are looking for it.''

This is my first dropper post so don't have any comparison to other post. Is anyone experiencing similar play in the post?

Regards


----------



## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

slamc said:


> Hi
> 
> I have installed oneup dropper (170mm 31.6) and noticed play in the post when trying to push the saddle by hand. There is minimal left/right and also fore/aft play. I had a test ride and don't notice any movement while riding. Have contacted oneup (sent a video) and received the following answer
> ''At full extension we have found that all (OneUp included) 170 or longer post can be moved slightly fore/aft when pushed by hand, off the bike. It's very slight but noticeable if you are looking for it.''
> ...


Yes. KS tho, not OneUP. Good luck finding a post with zero play.
=sParty


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Nick_M said:


> Hi, @oneup, is it possible to lift bike by seaddle when seatpost in lover possition?


Thou shalt not ride thine bike with the post in the "lover" position. You playing a dangerous game my friend.


----------



## da799 (Jul 17, 2014)

251 said:


> I recently put a 30.9/150mm drop One Up post on my newly-built Trance paired with one of the Giant under-bar levers. I have a couple other droppers, and this one seems pretty nice and a good value (as is the Giant lever). It also saved me from having to size down to a 125mm post or finding a saddle with a really low stack height. I've only ridden it a few times, so we'll have to see how it holds up. :thumbsup:
> 
> View attachment 1197320
> 
> ...


----------



## 251 (May 13, 2008)

da799 said:


> What size is your Trance?
> I've got a medium and trying to work out what size to get to get it as far out of the way as I can











It's a 2017 large Trance 2 frameset, my BB to saddle extension is 735mm and the post (150mm drop/30.9mm dia) could be lowered about 10mm further until the collar bottoms on the frame.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

New bike build day. The OneUp dropper is fantastic (one ride in) so far. There is about 1/4mm of side to side plant when I wiggle the seat and that is it. Super easy install (took 15mins). I have the 170mm 30.9.  I like how you can adjust the return speed via PSI pressure. Now the secret sauce is the Wolftooth Light Action remote. Holy cow, its buttery smooth and easy but not mushy/vague. Love it for sure. Assuming it all holds up, I'm stoked.

(yeah I know the seat is DJ'd out...I fixed it before the ride).


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Been riding my 170 dropper with a Wolftooth lever for about a month now. Super happy, would buy again.


----------



## CUP-TON (Dec 7, 2016)

FYI Oneup droppers back in stock this morning.
Also 9point8 has their droppers on sale on their site


----------



## SpeshulEd (Oct 29, 2013)

Finally got my email from Worldwide Cyclery yesterday saying mine was shipping.


----------



## MsvSpaz (Jul 1, 2014)

I just received one of these and in relation to the cable popping off the end, would you not just pull the green piece, that is held on with the oring, off, slip the cable end in, and then install it the other way around capturing the cable end inside? Then it can never come out?


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

Well this sucks. Might have to get a wolf tooth remote.


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Been riding my 170 dropper with a Wolftooth lever for about a month now. Super happy, would buy again.


Anyone try it with a race face lever?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

jeremy3220 said:


> Well this sucks. Might have to get a wolf tooth remote.
> 
> View attachment 1210019


my friends oneup remote broke like also. the body just snapped


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

jeremy3220 said:


> Well this sucks. Might have to get a wolf tooth remote.
> View attachment 1210019


 I thought the lever body was Carbon, but that looks like cheap plastic.


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

Aglo said:


> I thought the lever body was Carbon, but that looks like cheap plastic.


I think they are compressed carbon (so think MDF for F1 Engineers!).

Anyway, a lot of things break if hit correctly (or not), I have no issues with mine, it's the nicest feeling lever I've tried so far...


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Just J said:


> I think they are compressed carbon (so think MDF for F1 Engineers!). Anyway, a lot of things break if hit correctly (or not), I have no issues with mine, it's the nicest feeling lever I've tried so far...


 I have no doubt that they have a nice feel, that's one of the reasons I thought to buy one to replace a Specialized remote. When they say "A carbon remote with..." people think they are made of carbon fiber, but that is no carbon fiber, I don't see any layup, just some kind of resin/epoxy and maybe some carbon powder at most. So I will pass, and get a WolfTooth ReMote or a BikeYoke Triggy.


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

I can vouch for the Wolf Tooth being a nice solid item but I personally prefer the lever feel of the One Up.


----------



## Signman62 (Apr 29, 2018)

170mm fitted to my Medium Evil Calling.

Fitting was a breeze, using standard Wolf Tooth lever.
Feels awesome to me.

Joke the shim is not included, had to pay an extra £10 and is on back order.

Any issues will report back.


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

So I had a little problem over the weekend. The dropper started sagging and would not stay up. A few miles later the saddle started turning left and right as I pedaled. Not good. Something died internally in a serious way and it happened suddenly. 

I haven't had time to investigate the issue yet, but will dig into it before initiating a warranty claim. 

Will report back when I know more.


----------



## Trojan366 (Oct 4, 2016)

I installed my 170mm dropper with a wolftooth remote last week. I was nervous that it would be a bit too long based on some measurements I took and the infor on the oneup site. The post actually seem more compact than expected(or my measurements were wrong). Took all of 10 minutes and I am no mechanic. I did find that the post was slow to extend up the last 20mm or so until I backed off the seatpost clamp a hair. Went out for my first ride and everything functioned flawlessly. Little to no play in the seat . I might add a few psi just to speed things up a bit but it goes up and down. What more could you ask for?


----------



## CUP-TON (Dec 7, 2016)

stripes said:


> Anyone try it with a race face lever?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The Raceface lever uses the cable stop end and has no screw. It works on post where the cable is terminated on a set screw on the post. Oneup is the opposite. I have a RF on my KS Lev and 9point8. Great levers. I would by a Raceface if they would put the screw on the lever.


----------



## CUP-TON (Dec 7, 2016)

jeremy3220 said:


> Well this sucks. Might have to get a wolf tooth remote.
> 
> View attachment 1210019


Oh Gezzh. I hope this does not become an issue for everyone. Did you contact Oneup? Did it break in a crash or just snap.
I do like the levers position. But if this is going to happen, I'll bail and get a WT.


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

CUP-TON said:


> Oh Gezzh. I hope this does not become an issue for everyone. Did you contact Oneup? Did it break in a crash or just snap.
> I do like the levers position. But if this is going to happen, I'll bail and get a WT.


I was screwing around in the street doing endo crankflips. Endoed a bit too hard, jumped off the pedals and my thigh hit the lever. So it's my fault but that's also the kind of scenario I expect any shifter or brake lever to hold up to. I didn't bother contacting OneUp because I honestly don't want another lever from them. I've liked all their other products so far but not this dropper lever (see my previous posts for other reasons).


----------



## Neogen (Apr 23, 2016)

*OneSpeed* said:


> So I had a little problem over the weekend. The dropper started sagging and would not stay up. A few miles later the saddle started turning left and right as I pedaled. Not good. Something died internally in a serious way and it happened suddenly.
> 
> I haven't had time to investigate the issue yet, but will dig into it before initiating a warranty claim.
> 
> Will report back when I know more.


I am seriously considering Oneup and am going to junk my Reverb. Wondering, what happened and if there is any further update on your issue.


----------



## CUP-TON (Dec 7, 2016)

*OneSpeed* said:


> So I had a little problem over the weekend. The dropper started sagging and would not stay up. A few miles later the saddle started turning left and right as I pedaled. Not good. Something died internally in a serious way and it happened suddenly.
> 
> I haven't had time to investigate the issue yet, but will dig into it before initiating a warranty claim.
> 
> Will report back when I know more.


Hey Onespeed any word on this?


----------



## Signman62 (Apr 29, 2018)

Only had mine a few day's but working as it should.


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

pctloper said:


> I have 3 rides on the new post and it has been perfect----no complaints. Running 150 in my Pivot 429T---a 170 would fit that bike .


What size frame on your 429? I'm considering this post for my mach429T medium frame.

Will be my first dropper so I am kinda clueless, lol

J-


----------



## da799 (Jul 17, 2014)

Has anyone fitted a 170mm to a Medium Giant Trance?


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

CUP-TON said:


> Hey Onespeed any word on this?


Well, I went to look at it before I left town, pulled the post from the frame, removed the lever, then decided to check it again before removing it and installing another dropper I have.

Sure enough it seemed ok. I did not have a chance to ride it before I left, but will ride it as soon as I return. (BTW did I mention I'm in Squamish? Cause I'm in Squamish!!)


----------



## 1SlowSLC (Jun 20, 2018)

MsvSpaz said:


> I just received one of these and in relation to the cable popping off the end, would you not just pull the green piece, that is held on with the oring, off, slip the cable end in, and then install it the other way around capturing the cable end inside? Then it can never come out?


This is exactly what I did. I was having problems with the cable end slipping out of the actuator when trying to slide the post into the frame and pulling on the end of the cable by the headtube. So I pulled the green clip piece off and when I installed I turned it 180 deg. and it captured the end of the cable with no way for it to escape.

I got a 170 dropper and a wolf tooth light action remote. This is replacing a 150mm fox transfer, which was bottomed out and still too long. My oneup post is slammed in the seat tube and only slightly too long, so I will install the shim to get my top out height perfect.

The low stack height and drop rail style saddle attachment are awesome. With the seat at its lowest it is way, way out of the way. I feel like this setup allows the most travel and the lowest drop when bottomed out. Virtually no wiggle in the seat left to right, compared to the transfer having a bit of wiggle. Also the wolf tooth remote is great.

So far I am happy with my purchase and expect this type of quality from oneup. I have their chain guide as well, and have no complaints on that either. Only thing I don't like is that the shim piece is sold separately and is $10. The post should def. come with one, but its still a minor issue in the big picture.


----------



## CUP-TON (Dec 7, 2016)

1SlowSLC said:


> Only thing I don't like is that the shim piece is sold separately and is $10. The post should def. come with one, but its still a minor issue in the big picture.


I ordered from the second batch and my post came with a shim. It was in a small separate plastic bag and I almost threw it out.


----------



## Makarmtb (Jan 7, 2015)

Just installed mine. I have owned rockshox reverb, fox transfer, and ks lev dropper posts in the past. 

As far as simplicity of setup it is #1 hands down. I am a mechanic by profession but want everything to be simple and quick that means it was thought out on the engineering side. 

That being said it feels just like a transfer in its up and down movement. 

Now will come the durability testing. I will follow up after a month or two of riding it.


----------



## Signman62 (Apr 29, 2018)

After riding on mine a week it started to feel a little sticky.

First few ride's smooth as silk..to be expected I suppose once the initial excess lube had worn off.

Are you guy's using anything to lube the post after washing your bike ?


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

Heys looking at getting a One Up for my first dropper. Having never had a dropper before how do I go about getting the "correct" travel post? 

No clue if I need the 170 or the 150. I know they are adjustable with the shim but would rather get closer to what I actually need instead of say shimming a 170 down to 140 for instance. Seems like shimming a 150 to 140 would be a better way. Just no clue which to get. Is it as easy as measuring how much my current post is out and using that as a starting point? 

Bike is a 2017 Pivot Mach429T in medium and i'm 5'10. I also don't think that for the way I ride I need to be able to lower the seat totally out of the way (like all the way down to the seat post clamp) just need to occasionally get it out of the way on tight twisty and down hill stuff.

Thanks
J-


----------



## CUP-TON (Dec 7, 2016)

jjc155 said:


> Heys looking at getting a One Up for my first dropper. Having never had a dropper before how do I go about getting the "correct" travel post?
> 
> No clue if I need the 170 or the 150. I know they are adjustable with the shim but would rather get closer to what I actually need instead of say shimming a 170 down to 140 for instance. Seems like shimming a 150 to 140 would be a better way. Just no clue which to get. Is it as easy as measuring how much my current post is out and using that as a starting point?
> 
> ...











A- Drop 150 170
B- Effective length 410 450
C- Stack 187 207
D- Max insert 223 243
E- Min Insert 90 110
F- Max Extension 320 340
Actuator Length 32mm 32mm

The shim will allow for 50mm of reduction of travel. I personally would get the longest the bike and you can handle and reduce if needed.
I'm about your size with a 32-33 inseam and run a 170 on my med Mach 6 with out issues.


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

CUP-TON said:


> View attachment 1211160
> 
> 
> A- Drop 150 170
> ...


Cool thanks.

J-


----------



## andrewkhod (May 7, 2013)

I have had this post installed less than a week ago with the included carbon/plastic lever. After the 3rd ride the lever split in half from where main lever body and the screw holes connect. I am hoping I got a defect product and its not a design/material failure. I have had a wolftooth remote on my other bike for over 2 years without a single glitch. Waiting for a response from OneUp. Will update this review then.


----------



## CUP-TON (Dec 7, 2016)

andrewkhod said:


> I have had this post installed less than a week ago with the included carbon/plastic lever. After the 3rd ride the lever split in half from where main lever body and the screw holes connect. I am hoping I got a defect product and its not a design/material failure. I have had a wolftooth remote on my other bike for over 2 years without a single glitch. Waiting for a response from OneUp. Will update this review then.


Andrew, has Oneup gotten back to you yet?


----------



## andrewkhod (May 7, 2013)

jjc155 said:


> Heys looking at getting a One Up for my first dropper. Having never had a dropper before how do I go about getting the "correct" travel post?
> 
> No clue if I need the 170 or the 150. I know they are adjustable with the shim but would rather get closer to what I actually need instead of say shimming a 170 down to 140 for instance. Seems like shimming a 150 to 140 would be a better way. Just no clue which to get. Is it as easy as measuring how much my current post is out and using that as a starting point?
> 
> ...


I had a 175mm post on my small 429T and I am 5-8.


----------



## andrewkhod (May 7, 2013)

I contacted one up and they are sending me a new lever. I have glued it using two part epoxy and it's been holding pretty good.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

andrewkhod said:


> I had a 175mm post on my small 429T and I am 5-8.


Inseam would be much more useful for him since height has nothing to do with dropper and seat post extension.


----------



## andrewkhod (May 7, 2013)

Agree- inseam 30"


----------



## andrewkhod (May 7, 2013)

Also, there was still an inch more I could have inserted. So compare your seat tube lenght to the small frame seat tube lenght to get an idea.


----------



## andrewkhod (May 7, 2013)

*OneUp Remote*



Aglo said:


> I thought the lever body was Carbon, but that looks like cheap plastic.


 Oneup is sending me one but I already ordered a WT.


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

andrewkhod said:


> Oneup is sending me one but I already ordered a WT.


I also ended up with a wolftooth after my OneUp lever broke in the same spot. I think the OneUp lever is just a poor design. They should not have made the thin section that connects the body to the clamp out of plastic in my opinion.


----------



## ivansf (Jun 9, 2017)

Looks clean and I'm loving your bike!



Just J said:


> Just fitted mine this afternoon. Very impressed so far...


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

ivansf said:


> Looks clean and I'm loving your bike!


Thanks very much!


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

andrewkhod said:


> Agree- inseam 30"


Copy thanks, I'm 30-31 inseam.

J-


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

OK prob gonna pull the trigger on a 170mm in the next few days. Gonna go with the wolftooth lever. 

What else will I need? Shifter cable and housing (do they usually come with the ends or are they seperate)? Are the One up shims shipping with the posts now (I've heard yes and no, lol)? 

Thanks
J-


----------



## da799 (Jul 17, 2014)

jjc155 said:


> OK prob gonna pull the trigger on a 170mm in the next few days. Gonna go with the wolftooth lever.
> 
> What else will I need? Shifter cable and housing (do they usually come with the ends or are they seperate)? Are the One up shims shipping with the posts now (I've heard yes and no, lol)?
> 
> ...


I took delivery of a 150 yesterday and it didn't have a shim included. Luckily I won't need one


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

da799 said:


> I took delivery of a 150 yesterday and it didn't have a shim included. Luckily I won't need one


copy thanks

J-


----------



## BobbyLight350z (Feb 1, 2016)

I'm currently looking at this dropper and I was wondering if a 150 or 170 would get my seat dropped the lowest in the end? 

My bike's seat tube can only take 180mm of post before it bottoms out and I currently ride with around 200mm of exposed post on my bike from collar to saddle rails.

thanks


----------



## CUP-TON (Dec 7, 2016)

da799 said:


> I took delivery of a 150 yesterday and it didn't have a shim included. Luckily I won't need one


I received mine a few weeks ago and it did have the shim. It was in a very small plastic bag by itself and I almost threw it out because it was mixed up in some other packing. I ordered the lever also and am not sure if it was with the lever packing or in the post box as I just dumped everything in a pile.


----------



## ideate (May 28, 2016)

Just unboxed my new oneup to find slight play when twisting or turning the upper from left to right. It's very slight but noticeable in hand. Post works fine but is this normal? My Bikeyoke, Lev etc don't do this..


----------



## Signman62 (Apr 29, 2018)

All dropper's have a little play, some more than others.

My OneUp had very little but has developed a little more in the 2 weeks I've owned it.
These are advertised as 170mm but it's actually 165mm.

I'm still waiting on shim's.


----------



## ideate (May 28, 2016)

You're wrong. My bikeyoke revive has zero play. I'm ok with the oneup having some play as long as it's normal and I'm not stuck with a dud.


----------



## Signman62 (Apr 29, 2018)

Both my friend's have play in their Revive's.
Minimal but it's there.


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

I have a Revive, and it has a very small amount of play, it's the least amount of play I have seen in a dropper until now, but it has it none the less, all droppers need to have some amount of play, if there is no play there is no sliding.


----------



## ideate (May 28, 2016)

Ok sure everyone's revive has play. What I'm actually here to find out is.. Does everyone have noticeable play with their oneup?


----------



## slamc (Jun 13, 2018)

ideate said:


> Ok sure everyone's revive has play. What I'm actually here to find out is.. Does everyone have noticeable play with their oneup?


Look at post #178


----------



## ideate (May 28, 2016)

How?


----------



## slamc (Jun 13, 2018)

ideate said:


> How?


This is my entry from 06-13-2018

_Hi

I have installed oneup dropper (170mm 31.6) and noticed play in the post when trying to push the saddle by hand. There is minimal left/right and also fore/aft play. I had a test ride and don't notice any movement while riding. Have contacted oneup (sent a video) and received the following answer
''At full extension we have found that all (OneUp included) 170 or longer post can be moved slightly fore/aft when pushed by hand, off the bike. It's very slight but noticeable if you are looking for it.''

This is my first dropper post so don't have any comparison to other post. Is anyone experiencing similar play in the post?

Regards_


----------



## ideate (May 28, 2016)

slamc said:


> This is my entry from 06-13-2018
> 
> ''... all 170 or longer post can be moved.. .''


Cool. I have the 150mm.. So anyone else have the 150 and real world experience with this rotational play?


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

I got mine 8 weeks after ordering, but I can't install it. There's no shims that came with it, and they're sold out on the site. It does me no good if I can't change the travel in it.

Guess I'll be selling it--really don't feel like waiting around any longer to install a new post. Shame too, but I'll stick with my Lev at this point.


----------



## BobbyLight350z (Feb 1, 2016)

stripes said:


> I got mine 8 weeks after ordering, but I can't install it. There's no shims that came with it, and they're sold out on the site. It does me no good if I can't change the travel in it.
> 
> Guess I'll be selling it--really don't feel like waiting around any longer to install a new post. Shame too, but I'll stick with my Lev at this point.


Oneup emailed me saturday and said they are hoping for shims in 2-3 weeks.


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

BobbyLight350z said:


> Oneup emailed me saturday and said they are hoping for shims in 2-3 weeks.


Thanks for the update. Still doesn't make me really happy given how long I had to wait for this to still sit in a box.

I just emailed them too to ask them for shim availability (yay $1 part that costs $10 to send) and compatible levers. I'm looking at Wolf Tooth since the RF isn't compatible, but not sure which one (the regular or light action).


----------



## Signman62 (Apr 29, 2018)

I'm using a regular Wolf tooth lever with this post.
Perfect for me, it's a beautifully engineered thing too.

Yea it seems OneUp rushed this dropper out the door for the show and to hell with the 
shims..I personally think it should be included with the dropper,

Having to purchase this as a after part is a joke.
To top it off they don't even have any..laughable.

I have a couple of OneUp product's but have to say the shim saga is very poor.


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

Signman62 said:


> I'm using a regular Wolf tooth lever with this post.
> Perfect for me, it's a beautifully engineered thing too.
> 
> Yea it seems OneUp rushed this dropper out the door for the show and to hell with the
> ...


Yep, I don't want to spend the time to wait even longer for this.

If anyone's interested in a 30.9 150mm post, PM me. Still in the box, needs a home. No lever included.


----------



## ideate (May 28, 2016)

What do you need the shim for? To lower the travel? The shim comes with the oneup lever which I've found ok so far. They should probably include it with the post instead..


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

ideate said:


> What do you need the shim for? To lower the travel? The shim comes with the oneup lever which I've found ok so far. They should probably include it with the post instead..


Yes, lowering the travel. The entire reason I got the post was to get something between 125 and 150mm. Otherwise, I might as well stick with my 125mm KS lev. The 150mm is a just a hair too long and I'm not sure it fits in my frame. I know this post does, but at this point it's becoming much more of an expense and a headache than I want to deal with.

Yes, the shim comes with the lever (which is plastic) which means I'm likely to break it. I'm not paying for one. I'd rather get the Wooftooth lever.

So they're still out of shim for another month now, which does me no good. So I'm still selling the post. $185 including shipping in the US if you're interested. Still in the box, 30.9mm diameter, 150mm travel. PM me if interested.


----------



## ideate (May 28, 2016)

No offence but that's the biggest first world problem ever. Why can't you just slam the post and let it stop where you need until you get a shim?


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

stripes said:


> Yes, lowering the travel. The entire reason I got the post was to get something between 125 and 150mm. Otherwise, I might as well stick with my 125mm KS lev. The 150mm is a just a hair too long and I'm not sure it fits in my frame. I know this post does, but at this point it's becoming much more of an expense and a headache than I want to deal with.
> 
> Yes, the shim comes with the lever (which is plastic) which means I'm likely to break it. I'm not paying for one. I'd rather get the Wooftooth lever.
> 
> So they're still out of shim for another month now, which does me no good. So I'm still selling the post. $185 including shipping in the US if you're interested. Still in the box, 30.9mm diameter, 150mm travel. PM me if interested.


Why sell it (for a loss) instead of returning it to where you purchased it?

J-


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

jjc155 said:


> Why sell it (for a loss) instead of returning it to where you purchased it?
> 
> J-


Because I need the money for it rather than having it sit around.

Can't return it, which is my bad.


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

stripes said:


> Because I need the money for it rather than having it sit around.
> 
> Can't return it, which is my bad.


Why can't you return it?

J-


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

jjc155 said:


> Why can't you return it?
> 
> J-


It was a special order. Can't return it.


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

For the record, I think it was a *huge* mistake on Oneup's part to release the post before the shim was available. It should also be included with the post, period.



stripes said:


> It was a special order. Can't return it.


If it's still new and unused the shop should still take it back. They may charge you a 10-15% restocking fee, which is fair IMO for special orders, but that's about what you would take as a loss anyway.

Honestly I know it's been a hassle and a headache, but I'd stick it out. There's no other post out there that has adjustable travel and has this design. Riding it as is until the shim arrives is not the end of the world.

You should at least try to fit it in your frame, you may be surprised at how compact the design is. 150 on this post might be perfect if your able to use a 125mm in another design. (I was unable to fit a different brands 150mm post in my FS frame (XL) but the 170mm Oneup fits with lots of room to spare. It's a big difference in design.)


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Funny how One Up is very active on this forum, yet silence on the Shim available and why it's not included with the post.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I have two OneUp 170mm droppers and OneUp Levers, no issues so far, work great, not sticky, not loose, no failures. I did play with pressure just to see how it works. The posts are sensitive to post clamp pressure (like most droppers).

Great product, could use a shim for one post that's a tad (~5-10mm) high, but it's all good.

I agree, a spare shim should be included; I actually thought the posts came with a shim as the adjustable drop is a marketing feature.


----------



## Signman62 (Apr 29, 2018)

When I placed me order and fully paid for my 170 OneUp dropper I soon received an e.mail from the UK supplier telling me the shim was on back order and they would forward it on the following week.

That was 2 weeks ago.

I choose this over the Fox Transfer because of the shim feature.
I too could just do with 5/10mm less height.

My post is slammed and It's just a touch high on full extension and my knee sure knows about it..tight IT band...having to mess about trying to push it down that little bit on a ride in a pain in the a**.


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

TwoTone said:


> Funny how One Up is very active on this forum, yet silence on the Shim available and why it's not included with the post.


Oh and they were complete jerks about it in their email to me and basically told me I shouldn't have expected it with the post.

Sorry but when that's a SELLING feature on why me and quite a few others bought it, they dropped the ball on this big time.

So if anyone here has a spare shim they're willing to part with (or can tell me what I need to make my own), I'll be happy to use the post if I don't get any buyers.

But man, this shouldn't be this frustrating.



Signman62 said:


> When
> I choose this over the Fox Transfer because of the shim feature.
> I too could just do with 5/10mm less height.
> 
> My post is slammed and It's just a touch high on full extension and my knee sure knows about it..tight IT band...having to mess about trying to push it down that little bit on a ride in a pain in the a**.


Exactly. I know no one who wants to do that.



TwoTone said:


> Funny how One Up is very active on this forum, yet silence on the Shim available and why it's not included with the post.


But in emails they're pretty quick to call the customers out. Pretty disappointing.


----------



## Signman62 (Apr 29, 2018)

I can now feel up and down play in my OneUp dropper.

Always had tiny bit of lateral but now you can pull the post up and down.
Only a few mm but I don't remember it being like that when I first fitted it.

Anyone else the same ?


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Mine has zero play side to side (thought it used to have a little but no more). No play up or down. Solid so far and I've Def been using it, lifting the bike by the post/seat (when fully extended) and crashing things.


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

Installed my 170mm yesterday and was straight forward install. Shim did NOT come with the post but in the end I won’t need it. No play in the post, but I’ve only ridden around the yard while setting it up so we’ll see. Using the Wolftooth light action remote. 

Only thing I noticed and it may just be an cable adjustment issue is that about 1 out of every 10 times I have to take my weight off the seat to get it to go down. I don’t have to sit down hard or anything just un weight the seat a tad with the remote depressed and then sit to get it to lower. Almost like the prior time of extending the post it gets stuck at the extension stop. Not a huge issue. 

J-


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

jjc155 said:


> (...)
> Only thing I noticed and it may just be an cable adjustment issue is that about 1 out of every 10 times I have to take my weight off the seat to get it to go down. I don't have to sit down hard or anything just un weight the seat a tad with the remote depressed and then sit to get it to lower. Almost like the prior time of extending the post it gets stuck at the extension stop. Not a huge issue.
> 
> J-


That's stiction between the stanchion and the bushings, it should go away after some time. But if you have a seat tube with too much slack you should try to press the seatpost in the same direction of the seat tube to prevent extra wear and a smoother action of the seatpost.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Aglo said:


> That's stiction between the stanchion and the bushings, it should go away after some time. But if you have a seat tube with too much slack you should try to press the seatpost in the same direction of the seat tube to prevent extra wear and a smoother action of the seatpost.


I don't have this issue but since I centered my seat instead of having it setback, the post goes down smoother/easier.

Also, a PSI adjustment could help make it easier to drop. Mine definitely rises faster than the Fox one I've used and I like that. Def adjust the barrel on the wolftooth to reduce any cable play. New cables stretch.

Wolftooth light action and this post is really the hot setup. Good choice. I love mine big time so far. It was either this or a revive 185mm. Now that I've used it a lot, I don't think I'd want any more drop. I could have fit the 185 revive with more money and weight. My seat post has about 1.5in showing with the 170mm and I like it. I can still kind of pedal when it's dropped all the way and I'm not bumping into it at all. Anymore and at full drop it'd be down right dangerous to sit on in one of those weird events where I unexpectedly need too.

I'm wondering if we can self service the cartridge/post when the time comes?


----------



## SCTerp (Aug 9, 2017)

jjc155 said:


> Shim did NOT come with the post but in the end I won't need it.


I'll go ahead and beat this dead horse since I'm shopping for another dropper and this is/was on my short list...

Absolutely insane that a shim doesn't come with the post when it's the primary differentiator from other offerings. Making it even more insane is that they're not even available.

And while clever, including the shim with the lever is plain stupid. If they thought that move was going to sell more levers, well, good luck.

And as someone else commented, OneUp is usually pretty active and vocal on here. Why not come and address the issue head on to put it to rest? A good start is an accurate date of when the shims will actually be available. Then we can get to why they weren't available at launch and not included with the post...

End of rant (as I go and look at other options).


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

SCTerp said:


> I'll go ahead and beat this dead horse since I'm shopping for another dropper and this is/was on my short list...
> 
> Absolutely insane that a shim doesn't come with the post when it's the primary differentiator from other offerings. Making it even more insane is that they're not even available.
> 
> ...


The post is better and cheaper than everything else worth a dang, aside from maybe a Revive, and includes the same amount of shims as everything else out there too and a 2yr warranty. Trust me, it's the lesser of evils so overly focusing on the shim is a little silly. When you find a better option for 200$ with adjustable travel and super low length, let us know. (mine is 160$ with coupon, insane value).

Fwiw, modular pricing isn't a bad thing and allows users to purchase something only when they need it and not force everyone else to pay for it. It's like not including a remote, you just aren't used to it yet. Sure it sucks its not in stock but at least its an option. Try getting that with Fox or Revive or Bonty or Reverb or anything else. Fall line has something but is TWICE the cost and still has issues. As for the cost of it, yeah its a cheap price but it's not about the part cost but the R&D cost that they need to recoup. It's a great deal, you should be stoked that you even have an option to shim (worth the wait).


----------



## SCTerp (Aug 9, 2017)

svinyard said:


> The post is better and cheaper than everything else worth a dang, aside from maybe a Revive, and includes the same amount of shims as everything else out there too and a 2yr warranty. Trust me, it's the lesser of evils so overly focusing on the shim is a little silly. When you find a better option for 200$ with adjustable travel and super low length, let us know. (mine is 160$ with coupon, insane value).


There's no denying the value and the features. The shim should come with the post. It's still on my shortlist but the situation is pretty silly no matter how good the post is. I should've shared my thoughts that way originally...

That being said, glad you're digging your post! You got a killer post and deal.


----------



## SpeshulEd (Oct 29, 2013)

It's amusing that so many people are bitching about not receiving shims when it's clearly stated that shims are sold seperately.

It's a $200 dropper post that works just as well as a $350 Fox Transfer. 

And the complaining about it being too high and shims being unavailable...you do realize that its a dropper post and you can raise it to whatever height your butt prefers, right!?

I'm starting to remember why I hate message boards.


----------



## Signman62 (Apr 29, 2018)

I can't raise it on the go and stop it at the exact same point every time unless I max it out so shim is required for some of us.

I was quite aware that the shim was an extra and choose to purchase it.
Post is nicely made and still pretty pleased despite the issues.

Personally feel shim should have come with the dropper and at no extra charge but did not put me off buying one.

I'm more concerned with the free play mine has developed up and down.

I'll continue to faff about on the trail trying to stop my dropper 5mm from max until my shim arrives..if not I may try and make my own.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Did they specify a time line for when the shims come out? Dude that up and down play is BS, I'd get that warranted quick.


----------



## SpeshulEd (Oct 29, 2013)

I'd be pissed about up and down play too and would return it, however, my Fox Transfer has a little wiggle side to side, so I wouldn't blame OneUp for that. In fact, the only dropper I've ever owned without a bit of wiggle was my original Thomson dropper from almost 5 years ago.

I also realize the height being off is a pain but it seems like a silly reason to sell the OneUp dropper and buy something else because it'll take a couple weeks for the shims to be back in stock.


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

Aglo said:


> That's stiction between the stanchion and the bushings, it should go away after some time. But if you have a seat tube with too much slack you should try to press the seatpost in the same direction of the seat tube to prevent extra wear and a smoother action of the seatpost.


Copy thanks Aglo. I was thinking about the seatpost slack as being one of the issues. I have a '17 Pivot Mach429 trail.

J-


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

Wonder if the posts that are having up/down play have an air leak? Supposedly you can access the air valve under a rubber cap that is under the seat. I know mine has "250-300psi" noted on the post (not sure what mine in at as I noticed it after I had my seat mounted). I'll prob check it when I get a new seat (which is another endeavor, lol).

J-


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

jjc155 said:


> Wonder if the posts that are having up/down play have an air leak? Supposedly you can access the air valve under a rubber cap that is under the seat. I know mine has "250-300psi" noted on the post (not sure what mine in at as I noticed it after I had my seat mounted). I'll prob check it when I get a new seat (which is another endeavor, lol).
> 
> J-


This is a good point. You are supposed to adjust the air psi when setting it up. Yeah it's under the top cap. Mine happened to be great out of the box but I recall the instructions having a specific target psi that also allowed you to adjust based on preference for return gusto. (which is cool). The Fox transfer I last used was too slow.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

SpeshulEd said:


> It's amusing that so many people are bitching about not receiving shims when it's clearly stated that shims are sold seperately.
> 
> It's a $200 dropper post that works just as well as a $350 Fox Transfer.
> 
> ...


Funny you remind me of why I find them entertaining. You realize how asinine the bolded part is? User name fits.


----------



## Signman62 (Apr 29, 2018)

Emailed Ubyk this morning chasing my shim's and mentioned the dropper has up and down play. There is no play when fully extended.

Post is still returning at decent speed so don't think it's a psi issue.


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

speshuled said:


> it's amusing that so many people are bitching about not receiving shims when it's clearly stated that shims are sold seperately.
> 
> It's a $200 dropper post that works just as well as a $350 fox transfer.


This! ^^^


----------



## Signman62 (Apr 29, 2018)

Why make a product and release it when the main attraction (for me) is the shim feature yet I'm unable to buy this shim.

***** Over


----------



## Gilgo (Jul 15, 2011)

Got some extra shims, if anyone needing one lives in Sweden I could send one.


----------



## SpeshulEd (Oct 29, 2013)

TwoTone said:


> Funny you remind me of why I find them entertaining. You realize how asinine the bolded part is? User name fits.


You're a moron. Why even bother buying a dropper with infinite adjustability if you only plan on using it fully extended or all the way down? I constantly adjust the height of my dropper for the terrain. About the only time it's fully extended is for long flat slogs or long climbs up fire roads. Yes, the shims are a great idea but the fact that people are this disgruntled about adjusting their saddle while they wait a couple of weeks for shims to be back in stock is laughable at best.


----------



## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

FYI, I spoke to Wolftooth this morning, and they told me they recommend the standard ReMote lever for use with the Oneup Dropper instead of the Light Action.


----------



## Signman62 (Apr 29, 2018)

I'm using the standard Woolf Tooth and it only takes a very light touch to adjust 
the dropper. Those lever's are sex.

I've sent a video today to Ubyk supplier of my post and they have sent it to OneUp.
Post has approx 5mm of Up and Down play.

Keep you posted ..Haa


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

Signman62 said:


> Why make a product and release it when the main attraction (for me) is the shim feature yet I'm unable to buy this shim.


Same here.


----------



## SpeshulEd (Oct 29, 2013)

The shims were available. They sold out.

This happens a lot when manufacturers make a product that a lot of people buy. For example iphones, tickle me elmo, sezchuan sauce, oneup dropper shims...


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

rscecil007 said:


> FYI, I spoke to Wolftooth this morning, and they told me they recommend the standard ReMote lever for use with the Oneup Dropper instead of the Light Action.


did they say why?


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

useport80 said:


> did they say why?


interested too as I have the LA version.

J-


----------



## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

useport80 said:


> did they say why?


From what I understood (had a bad phone connection early in the call), he said the Oneup dropper has a pretty short throw on it to begin with, so the LA version can almost be too light, and the normal gives a better feel. I actually have both, and have mine set up with the LA now, but will probably try the other one. I will say it doesn't take much movement of the LA lever to get the post to activate.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

I have the light action and it's fantastic. By far the best lever/dropper setup I've ever used.


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

SpeshulEd said:


> The shims were available. They sold out.
> 
> This happens a lot when manufacturers make a product that a lot of people buy. For example iphones, tickle me elmo, sezchuan sauce, oneup dropper shims...


So they make a new dropper post, promote it as having a unique feature that no other dropper post has. And that new feature requires a small and simple, but unique plastic part. Very likely one of the least expensive parts of the entire post.

Since they must have known how many posts they had ordered from whomever it is that actually manufactures them, why did they order such an inadequate number of these shims? And why not just include them with every post anyway?

While I don't deny that OneUp has cranked out some interesting and innovative items, they also demonstrated to me an annoying arrogance as a company early on. I stopped using their products and have since found better solutions from better run companies. For example WolfTooth and Bikeyoke.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

SpeshulEd said:


> You're a moron. Why even bother buying a dropper with infinite adjustability if you only plan on using it fully extended or all the way down? I constantly adjust the height of my dropper for the terrain. About the only time it's fully extended is for long flat slogs or long climbs up fire roads. Yes, the shims are a great idea but the fact that people are this disgruntled about adjusting their saddle while they wait a couple of weeks for shims to be back in stock is laughable at best.


Hmm I'm the moron? What was the whole point of a dropper again? Oh yea, be able to have your saddle at the proper pedaling position and then drop it without stopping.

Can't do that if you bought a longer one that needed a shim and you can't get a shim.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

ideate said:


> No offence but that's the biggest first world problem ever. Why can't you just slam the post and let it stop where you need until you get a shim?


You do realize that he probably has it slammed and it's too tall? That's the whole point of being able to shim it, so you can get the right saddle height.


----------



## ideate (May 28, 2016)

TwoTone said:


> You do realize that he probably has it slammed and it's too tall? That's the whole point of being able to shim it, so you can get the right saddle height.


You do realise you can stop it at any height with your butt?


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

**** wit on the internet moment apparently. Apologies.


----------



## ideate (May 28, 2016)

I have no idea how some people simply stay alive? It's mind boggling. That was also rhetorical.


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

ideate said:


> I have no idea how some people simply stay alive. It's mind boggling. That was also rhetorical.


More of a statement actually.


----------



## ideate (May 28, 2016)

Fixed it for you. Thanks for demonstrating my point.


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)




----------



## ideate (May 28, 2016)

Just J said:


> ... you spelt your name wrong.
> 
> *idiot
> 
> I'm out.


Thank God. One less illiterate in this thread.

Has anyone tried to 3d print a shim or similar to reduce its travel? It's just a bit of plastic after all?


----------



## MsvSpaz (Jul 1, 2014)

ideate said:


> Thank God. One less illiterate in this thread.
> 
> Has anyone tried to 3d print a shim or similar to reduce its travel? It's just a bit of plastic after all?


Pretty sure someone made one out of an ice cream container or something like that.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## MsvSpaz (Jul 1, 2014)

Just J said:


> BUTt what happens if the lowest setting he or she can get the post down to is still too high to descend comfortably?! (That's a rhetorical questions for you think about because that is what is being said here, so really doesn't require an answer by the way.)


Pretty sure that is not what anyone is saying.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Signman62 (Apr 29, 2018)

I was about to make one after finding the dimension's online but my supplier told me they are due in this week.. YeeHaa

You can of course use your butt to set the height as I'm sure we all do.

Fine for riding on the trail but if I'm on the road or long fire road I need my personal max height to be exact or I get IT band issues, 5mm either way and I get pain.

What I'm missing here is the ability to return the post back to it's perfect height to suit my maximum post height length.


This is why the shim is helpful as maxed out and post slammed in the frame it's 5mm too high.

Might not sound much and your a better man/woman than me if you can return your dropper without maxing out to an exact height every time.

I have been having to jump off the bike and 'CAREFULLY' lower 5mm

If OneUp are unable to sort my issue with the post having up and down play I will be sticking a Fox Transfer in any way.


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

MsvSpaz said:


> Pretty sure that is not what anyone is saying.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


It was early when I posted. We all have off days! 

I guess I didn't make myself clear or fully communicate what I was trying to though, so apologies for that and possibly misreading some information on the thread.


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

ideate said:


> Thank God. One less illiterate in this thread.
> 
> Has anyone tried to 3d print a shim or similar to reduce its travel? It's just a bit of plastic after all?


Apologies, I totally misunderstood what was being said and for some reason I thought it a good idea to comment too early upon a Sunday morn! In fact I completely failed to grasp even what I was saying! I guess I just responded to the negativity which isn't something I tend to do. I have edited and apologised so I hope there are no hard feelings.

Maybe we both could have avoided the insults though?

My main gripe with this thread is that a company like one up has created a great product at a fantastic price yet there are still people on there complaining about a part that was clearly stated as not being included with the post. That's what really mind boggling to me!

Anyway, as I say, I'm sorry I misread things, I'm going to blame lack of sleep and I hope we can move on in a positive light.

Have a good ride!

J


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

Just J said:


> My main gripe with this thread is that a company like one up has created a great product at a fantastic price yet there are still people on there complaining about a part that was clearly stated as not being included with the post. That's what really mind boggling to me!


People wouldn't be pissed if it wasn't a hyped up feature and yet the shims have had availability problems since day 1. Which is ridiculous for such a simple and obviously cheap part. I doubt I am alone in feeling that they really should have included one with every post, and not sell a $0.50 item for $10. The post is cheap but spares are not.


----------



## SpeshulEd (Oct 29, 2013)

TwoTone said:


> Hmm I'm the moron? What was the whole point of a dropper again? Oh yea, be able to have your saddle at the proper pedaling position and then drop it without stopping.
> 
> Can't do that if you bought a longer one that needed a shim and you can't get a shim.


See below.



ideate said:


> You do realise you can stop it at any height with your butt?


Holy ****, a person in this tread with common sense. You sir, are getting some rep points or whatever the hell thrown at you!



Velodonata said:


> So they make a new dropper post, promote it as having a unique feature that no other dropper post has. And that new feature requires a small and simple, but unique plastic part. Very likely one of the least expensive parts of the entire post.
> 
> Since they must have known how many posts they had ordered from whomever it is that actually manufactures them, why did they order such an inadequate number of these shims? And why not just include them with every post anyway?


I can't answer these questions but I'd guess it's because not everyone in the world needs a shim, so why supply a part at an added cost to them to everyone when not everyone needs one?! I mean, I guess they could have and just charged $250 for the dropper.

I mean, why doesn't Apple just produce more iphones every fall when they do their launch? I know this is a crazy concept but sometimes things sell out. Sometimes thats due to unexpected demand, sometimes it's because the product launched before they had enough items to ship, sometimes it's because they're stuck on a cargo ship.


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

SpeshulEd said:


> I can't answer these questions but I'd guess it's because not everyone in the world needs a shim, so why supply a part at an added cost to them to everyone when not everyone needs one?! I mean, I guess they could have and just charged $250 for the dropper.
> 
> I mean, why doesn't Apple just produce more iphones every fall when they do their launch? I know this is a crazy concept but sometimes things sell out. Sometimes thats due to unexpected demand, sometimes it's because the product launched before they had enough items to ship, sometimes it's because they're stuck on a cargo ship.


You are digging deep here and coming up empty. They only charge $10 for the shim by itself, which seems like at least $9 too much for a little bit of plastic. How is that going to make the post $50 more expensive? And what does it have to do with iPhones? People are pissed because these things have been hard to get since release, it is a ridiculously simple part, and it was a hyped up feature. Why is that so hard to understand?


----------



## Signman62 (Apr 29, 2018)

OneUp have agreed my dropper is faulty.

Replacing it.

I'm signing out of this thread ...some right D*ck heads on here.


----------



## SpeshulEd (Oct 29, 2013)

Velodonata said:


> You are digging deep here and coming up empty. They only charge $10 for the shim by itself, which seems like at least $9 too much for a little bit of plastic. How is that going to make the post $50 more expensive? And what does it have to do with iPhones? People are pissed because these things have been hard to get since release, it is a ridiculously simple part, and it was a hyped up feature. Why is that so hard to understand?


Why is it so hard to understand that sometimes products sell out?

I'm saying they could have just charged more for the dropper and thrown in the shim. Not everyone needs a shim though, so I'm sure if they had included the shim, we'd have people bitching, "why not just sell the post without the shim and sell it for less money?"

I'm using the iPhone as an example of another item that usually sells out at launch. Like my other post that referenced Tickle-Me-Elmo and szechuan sauce. It was a comparison and a joke but apparently you're bad at jokes and reading comprehension.


----------



## sml-2727 (Nov 16, 2013)

My post came with a shim and I bought some because I did not know it came with one.


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

SpeshulEd said:


> Why is it so hard to understand that sometimes products sell out?
> 
> I'm saying they could have just charged more for the dropper and thrown in the shim. Not everyone needs a shim though, so I'm sure if they had included the shim, we'd have people bitching, "why not just sell the post without the shim and sell it for less money?"
> 
> I'm using the iPhone as an example of another item that usually sells out at launch. Like my other post that referenced Tickle-Me-Elmo and szechuan sauce. It was a comparison and a joke but apparently you're bad at jokes and reading comprehension.


Good news! It was never in question that this isn't the first item to ever sell out. Yes, the iPhone saga is common knowledge, my point was that it is a ridiculous comparison. Your projection based butthurt is confusing, why do you care if people are a bit miffed at OneUp?


----------



## SpeshulEd (Oct 29, 2013)

Velodonata said:


> Good news! It was never in question that this isn't the first item to ever sell out. Yes, the iPhone saga is common knowledge, my point was that it is a ridiculous comparison. Your projection based butthurt is confusing, why do you care if people are a bit miffed at OneUp?


I don't care but I enjoy pointing out how stupid it is to **** all over a brand because an item is out of stock.


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

Anyone see an issue with having the One Up dropper in the DOWN position for extended periods? If I’m not riding my bike is under the cap of my truck in a rack. It is soooo much easier to get the bike in and out with the post dropped but it is usually a few days between rides for me. Don’t want to mess up the post due to convenience. 

Also for those that have noticed some play, I know this is elementary, but check your seat clamps. I had a bit is wiggle but it was not in the post itself. Gave the seat clamp bolts a half turn each and it went away. Just a thought. 

J-


----------



## beer_coffee_water (Mar 1, 2011)

jjc155 said:


> Anyone see an issue with having the One Up dropper in the DOWN position for extended periods? If I'm not riding my bike is under the cap of my truck in a rack. It is soooo much easier to get the bike in and out with the post dropped but it is usually a few days between rides for me. Don't want to mess up the post due to convenience.
> 
> Also for those that have noticed some play, I know this is elementary, but check your seat clamps. I had a bit is wiggle but it was not in the post itself. Gave the seat clamp bolts a half turn each and it went away. Just a thought.
> 
> J-


I stored my bike for a week with the post down. I won't do it again. The remote was really stiff like the post did not want to actuate and it took a lot of force on the remote to get it to pop back up.


----------



## Trojan366 (Oct 4, 2016)

I bought shims thinking I would need them but the design of the post allowed me to use full travel. I have three. I’d consider splitting them up for $75 a piece if you’re complaining about the price and the fact that they aren’t included. If you realize it’s a good product at a great price then I’d sell 2 for $15 shipped lol


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

beer_coffee_water said:


> I stored my bike for a week with the post down. I won't do it again. The remote was really stiff like the post did not want to actuate and it took a lot of force on the remote to get it to pop back up.


Copy thanks.

J-


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

Got my post and remote today, shim is included, not that I need it.


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

Post is installed and test ride went well, proper ride coming tonight


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

jjc155 said:


> Anyone see an issue with having the One Up dropper in the DOWN position for extended periods? If I'm not riding my bike is under the cap of my truck in a rack. It is soooo much easier to get the bike in and out with the post dropped but it is usually a few days between rides for me. Don't want to mess up the post due to convenience.
> 
> Also for those that have noticed some play, I know this is elementary, but check your seat clamps. I had a bit is wiggle but it was not in the post itself. Gave the seat clamp bolts a half turn each and it went away. Just a thought.
> 
> J-


This is funny, earlier I mentioned that my post is flawless but did have a 1/8mm of play it so. Barely distinguishable but there. Nevertheless, it was the saddle clamp and not the post. Zero play on mine. Stantions are still great as well with no marks even tho I've crashed the bike a few times etc. Post is still flawless so far. The only thing I do to baby it, is never picking the bike up by the post/saddle without the post full extended.


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

Second One Up in the garage, this time on my Switchblade and coupled with a Wolf Tooth lever. Absolutely perfection, feels awesome!


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

I actually have two Crank Brothers Highlines 160mm and this One Up Dropper 170mm, so my comparison base is small, but here are some points:
* Love the speed of the One Up, Highline is slow in comparison (no biggie for me)
* Highline is smooth, One Up feels "grindy" in comparison
* Install of cable mechanism onto dropper - One Up is easier, Highline can be problematic
* Lever pull/feel - no problem with either, both are cable operated with barrel adjusters
* Lever Mechanism - l dont feel the need to change/upgrade either, they are both ok for me, One Up has the IS option to mount directly onto brake lever, this wouldn't put the lever where l want it though, Highline has a lot of adjustment available 
* Looks - both are black, Highline has a silver collar (l believe other colours are available)
* Highline is stiff and feels solid, One Up l notice some flex in the post and it doesnt have the solid feel of the Highline, flex is not a bad thing on a Hardtail but how will it effect the post over a longer time? (Im around 96kgs kitted)
* I paid - Highline 254, One Up 225
* Warranty - Highline 3yrs, One Up 2yrs
* Highline came with stickers (for my toolbox  ), One Up none 

Im not going to say one is better than the other, as both could be improved, and lve only had two "real"" rides on the One Up, so I cant comment on longevity.


----------



## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Has anyone noticed that when seated the post takes a bit more effort to activate? Vital noted this in their review also.

With barely any weight or just the weight of pushing it down by hand, lever activation is smooth as can be to drop the post. But fully weighted, you can feel the extra effort needed in the lever and then it brake loose and the post will drop.

I suppose not a huge deal, although I've only one ride on mine. But this isn't something I've ever noticed on any other dropper I've ever tried. Levs, Transfers, etc. all of them activation was the same regardless of being weighted or not.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

rscecil007 said:


> Has anyone noticed that when seated the post takes a bit more effort to activate? Vital noted this in their review also.
> 
> With barely any weight or just the weight of pushing it down by hand, lever activation is smooth as can be to drop the post. But fully weighted, you can feel the extra effort needed in the lever and then it brake loose and the post will drop.
> 
> I suppose not a huge deal, although I've only one ride on mine. But this isn't something I've ever noticed on any other dropper I've ever tried. Levs, Transfers, etc. all of them activation was the same regardless of being weighted or not.


Are you talking about extra force in the lever or post? I'm experiencing neither tho I'm 195lbs and using wolf tooth LA remote.

What is your seat psi at? I didn't like the Fox transfer, was too slow. You might try adjusting the psi.


----------



## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

A bit of extra force at the lever when weighted. Using a Wolftooth LA lever as well.


----------



## MsvSpaz (Jul 1, 2014)

I absolutely have this problem. And also using a wolf tooth standard lever. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

I believe this problem has nothing to do with the lever. 
I suggest due to the force your weight puts on the post (not directly down the post but at an angle, red arrow) the post binds up a little, "de-weight" a little and its fine.
Try loading the post up (directly along the post, green arrow) and I guess it wont be an issue.

Bad news for me is, during this mornings commute I dropped rode a nice trail, but the dropper never returned , I had to pull it up by hand.
Will check the pressure tonight.


----------



## MsvSpaz (Jul 1, 2014)

cmg71 said:


> I believe this problem has nothing to do with the lever.
> I suggest due to the force your weight puts on the post (not directly down the post but at an angle, red arrow) the post binds up a little, "de-weight" a little and its fine.
> Try loading the post up (directly along the post, green arrow) and I guess it wont be an issue.
> 
> ...


I agree it has nothing to do with the lever.

I contacted OneUp about it and they said it was a "nuance of a cartridge system", but, as I said to them, I never had this issue with my LEV which was also a cartridge. Also never had the issue with a Reverb, Xfusion Hilo or Brand X Ascend.

I think this post is just okay and is made to a price point, rather than for quality. The length is good, the low profile is good and the travel adjust shims would be good, if they came with the post, but otherwise it does not seem any better, and may even be worse, than the Brand X Ascend whilst being considerably dearer.

At this stage I would possibly buy it again, but I would like to see how long these things last in the wild.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

Checked it at home, only about 150psi in it, worked perfectly on Saturday.
Pumped it up to 300psi and works again.
Bit of a worry......

Will post updates about this.


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

About the stiction issue: I've found that most droppers will go down easier (by hand) if you press on the nose of the saddle. This is true in my experience with Fox, KS, and RS. 

The opposite is true of the Oneup. It does not respond well to pressure on the nose of the saddle. It's much happier if the pressure is inline with the angle of the seat tube. 

My post also lost air over the first couple months. It doesn't seem to operate quite as smoothly as it did when new. Only time will tell how it holds up long term.


----------



## Rock Surf (Aug 28, 2010)

I've had mine for a couple of rides and its been great. I ordered it with the One Up lever. Only complaint about it would be the lever. I should've ordered the Wolftooth.

Mine also came with the shim.

I had to look up how to install it because I had no idea how to. I either lost the instructions or it didn't come with any:


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

*OneSpeed* said:


> My post also lost air over the first couple months. It doesn't seem to operate quite as smoothly as it did when new. Only time will tell how it holds up long term.


this is not news I wanted to here :eekster:

Im wondering if a little oil (maybe grease) would help the "grindy" feeling mine seems to have?
(maybe Im totally overthinking it? and shouldn't compare it to the smoothness of the Highline....)

anyway Im thinking a thicker oil in these spots (screenshot from vid above) may help, anybody done this?


----------



## MsvSpaz (Jul 1, 2014)

I have put Slicko under there. 
OneUp recommended this to “dull” the side to side play I had in my post from new. 
Definitely felt smoother at first, but the grease seems to work its way out pretty quickly. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Finish Line makes a suspension spray

Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care Products - Max™ Suspension Spray


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Finish Line makes a suspension spray
> 
> Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care Products - Max™ Suspension Spray


I have this stuff at home, for suspension forks, it is very runny though, I will give it a try 

https://www.brunox.com/website/productpages/Deo-en.html


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

cmg71 said:


> I have this stuff at home, for suspension forks, it is very runny though, I will give it a try
> 
> https://www.brunox.com/website/productpages/Deo-en.html


It appears to have helped quite a bit, post feels smoother, so last night I added some more :thumbsup:


----------



## evanofd (May 1, 2018)

rscecil007 said:


> From what I understood (had a bad phone connection early in the call), he said the Oneup dropper has a pretty short throw on it to begin with, so the LA version can almost be too light, and the normal gives a better feel. I actually have both, and have mine set up with the LA now, but will probably try the other one. I will say it doesn't take much movement of the LA lever to get the post to activate.


I have what feels like the world's longest throw on mine with the LA before it does anything to my post. I wonder why mines so weird and no one else has had issues

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

evanofd said:


> I have what feels like the world's longest throw on mine with the LA before it does anything to my post. I wonder why mines so weird and no one else has had issues
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Did you do the install? Sounds like a cable issue. When you insert the post you need to keep tension on the cable and housing. I'm guessing you've true tightening your cable at the lever, but if you haven't I'd do that first.


----------



## evanofd (May 1, 2018)

svinyard said:


> Did you do the install? Sounds like a cable issue. When you insert the post you need to keep tension on the cable and housing. I'm guessing you've true tightening your cable at the lever, but if you haven't I'd do that first.


I'll try that as soon as I get home tomorrow. Thank you. It also sticks half the time going up and it's only a month old with maybe 10 hours of riding on it so idk why it's doing that but my guess is it's tied in with the cable tension being off

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

evanofd said:


> I'll try that as soon as I get home tomorrow. Thank you. It also sticks half the time going up and it's only a month old with maybe 10 hours of riding on it so idk why it's doing that but my guess is it's tied in with the cable tension being off
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Pump ot up to 300psi, put some lubricant on it (see above), that helped my issues


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

I'm wondering if everyone is checking the Psi when they install or if that is getting skipped. Let us know what your psi is Evan, hopefully that is the quick fix.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> If it helps with your decision, a buddy recently broke his Bikeyoke just below the seat mount head. No crash involved.
> 
> View attachment 1197500


This post is from a long time ago, yet I´d like to explain myself. 
Bringing up this example without context seems a little unfair. This post has been installed with the saddle clamps reversed (front side back), which explicitly is not allowed!
First thing I´ve asked was, if the rider was OK. I´ve asked him several questions, and told him, that we´d replace this post regardless, of what happened. I just wanted honest answers to my questions. It is true, that the customer said, no crash was involved, and he never crashed before with this post either.

Anyway, no product is 100% perfect.
To give numbers, which probably no other company wants to give away:
We do have a total of 121 reported issues (I just checked) with one of our REVIVES from customers, that required handling through one of our distributors or service centers. This number includes "issues" that were caused by customers themselves (lack of service, expose to water/salt, opening the post then not get it back together, releasing oil, ...), that were not actually a problem of the post, but caused by the customer. I will not speak of how many posts we´ve sold exactly up do date, but please let me assure, that those 121 posts mean way less than a 1% failure rate. Feel free to make your own image from that. I know numbers of several other companies and despite this failure rate could make us proud, I still feel bad for every customer, who needs to contact me about an issue - simply because we want to get better. Our goal, which we naturally can never achieve, is to have 0 failure rate from our side.
Naturally, most of the issues identified as problems with the hydraulics (which can happen), and we´ve had barely no structural issue reports.
That what you can see in the picture has happened (I believe out of the top of my head) less than 5 times. I remember in two or three cases the saddle was clamped way too far back (rails were already clamped at the beginning of the bend). In this case, the seat clamps were installed reversed. I guess, what I want to say is, that it is highly unlikely that the head of the post snaps out of a sudden for no reason.


----------



## suke001 (Sep 2, 2018)

do you think it will work with one up dropper?
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/tranzx-lever-for-remote-seatpost-horizontal-630620


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

rscecil007 said:


> Has anyone noticed that when seated the post takes a bit more effort to activate? Vital noted this in their review also.
> 
> With barely any weight or just the weight of pushing it down by hand, lever activation is smooth as can be to drop the post. But fully weighted, you can feel the extra effort needed in the lever and then it brake loose and the post will drop.
> 
> I suppose not a huge deal, although I've only one ride on mine. But this isn't something I've ever noticed on any other dropper I've ever tried. Levs, Transfers, etc. all of them activation was the same regardless of being weighted or not.


That is normal and comes from the extra pressure, which you generate in the lockout (hydrulic) chamber, when sitting on the post with all your weight. 
To open the valve, the pressure inside the hydraulic chmber needs to be overcome and more pressure means more force required. 
Every hydraulically locked post shows this behaviour more or less, same as shocks with lockout lever. The lever is usually harder to engange, when sitting on the bike compared to when the bike is without rider.
For our REVIVE posts we advice to unweight the saddle slightly, before engaging the remote. Actually, I´ve never done otherwise anyway, so I hardly get in situatione, where I cna feel it during real life use.



cmg71 said:


> I believe this problem has nothing to do with the lever.
> I suggest due to the force your weight puts on the post (not directly down the post but at an angle, red arrow) the post binds up a little, "de-weight" a little and its fine.
> Try loading the post up (directly along the post, green arrow) and I guess it wont be an issue.
> 
> ...


Very good advice, as this will make action smoother and goes easy on the post: A post should always be pushed in line with the stanchion/seattube, but this is not what causes the phenomenon decribed above.

Cheers
Sacki


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Finish Line makes a suspension spray
> 
> Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care Products - Maxâ„¢ Suspension Spray


Please never ever use this and/or smilar products on any suspension component on the long term - neither fork nor shock nor post. 
This will flush/wash out the (very important) grease from your wipers and cause the suspension products to work even worse after the initial lubrication wears off - which is usually very quickly.
Yes, it does feel good pretty nice right after applying, but I do not recommend any of those, as it won´t be good on the long run. 
I think the guys from One Up will agree.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

cmg71 said:


> I have this stuff at home, for suspension forks, it is very runny though, I will give it a try
> 
> https://www.brunox.com/website/productpages/Deo-en.html


Same here. DO NOT use this in your fork! Please!


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

suke001 said:


> do you think it will work with one up dropper?
> https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/tranzx-lever-for-remote-seatpost-horizontal-630620


Are you asking me? 
I can´t tell for sure (I´m not from One Up), but if it allows clamping the cable on the remote end, I don´t see a reason why it should not work.
However, I´d opt for something more worthy, if I wanted to install it on a One Up dropper.


----------



## evanofd (May 1, 2018)

svinyard said:


> I'm wondering if everyone is checking the Psi when they install or if that is getting skipped. Let us know what your psi is Evan, hopefully that is the quick fix.


So I finally got time today to look at it and I adjusted tension on the cable along with messing with the seat clamp tension and that seems to have done the trick. The post was at around 290-300psi. So no issue there. It did seem to be running a little dry but a flip upside down for 10 minutes and it was smooth as hell.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

evanofd said:


> So I finally got time today to look at it and I adjusted tension on the cable along with messing with the seat clamp tension and that seems to have done the trick. The post was at around 290-300psi. So no issue there. It did seem to be running a little dry but a flip upside down for 10 minutes and it was smooth as hell.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Sweet dude. Flipping your bike is good for your Fork as well


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

sacki said:


> I think the guys from One Up will agree.


Thanks for chiming in Sacki. Nice to have some factual posts from a competitor. Stoked that you guys are making a good run. Cheers.



suke001 said:


> do you think it will work with one up dropper?
> https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/tranzx-lever-for-remote-seatpost-horizontal-630620


That lever won't work as our cable clamp is at the lever end (that one is reversed). Out of curiosity, why are you not considering the OneUp lever? VitalMTB aside, it's getting really good reviews:

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/collections/dropper-posts/products/dropper-post-lever

The position is different but I'd never go back. New XTR thinks it's the ideal placement as well.

Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

OneUp said:


> Thanks for chiming in Sacki. Nice to have some factual posts from a competitor. Stoked that you guys are making a good run. Cheers.
> 
> Cheers,
> Jon @ OneUp


Hey Jon,

What is you opinion/advice regarding the addition of oils/grease to the post?
To turning the bike upside down?
Is there a product One Up recommends for lubricating the Dropper?

Cheers
Chris

@Sacki, l had a hard time following your posts, maybe in future quote the post you answer, or multi-quote and reply to all in one post.
(but then again it might my stupidity that made it hard to keep up)


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

I also had a hard time figuring that stuff out Sacki (still do) but also have a ton of respect for the work that you do so I'm interested in it.

OneUp Jon, I'd second the interest. I'm guessing something like Oneball stantion oil like Fox uses perhaps?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

cmg71 said:


> @Sacki, l had a hard time following your posts, maybe in future quote the post you answer, or multi-quote and reply to all in one post.
> (but then again it might my stupidity that made it hard to keep up)





svinyard said:


> I also had a hard time figuring that stuff out Sacki (still do) but also have a ton of respect for the work that you do so I'm interested in it.
> 
> OneUp Jon, I'd second the interest. I'm guessing something like Oneball stantion oil like Fox uses perhaps?


Oh, sorry, for some reason I managed to not quote properly. I added the corresponding quotes to my posts. Should be easier to understand now, I hope.
Sorry for the confusion.


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

Thanks mate, easier to follow now


----------



## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

I'm tempted to try the One Up lever as the placement makes sense to me but I wish they'd make a more sturdy alloy version.


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

sacki said:


> Please never ever use this and/or smilar products on any suspension component on the long term - neither fork nor shock nor post.
> *This will flush/wash out the (very important) grease from your wipers and cause the suspension products to work even worse after the initial lubrication wears off - which is usually very quickly.*
> Yes, it does feel good pretty nice right after applying, but I do not recommend any of those, as it won´t be good on the long run.
> I think the guys from One Up will agree.


Interesting. Good to know, thanks for the heads up.

I don't understand why companies make stuff like this. It sounds like it's the WD-40 of the suspension world. (not to be used anywhere you want actual lubrication)



OneUp said:


> Thanks for chiming in Sacki. Nice to have some factual posts from a competitor. Stoked that you guys are making a good run. Cheers.


Jon,

What do you recommend to keep the OneUp dropper post lubricated? Both of mine have started to get sticky/binding at the top.

Thanks


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

sacki said:


> Please never ever use this and/or smilar products on any suspension component on the long term - neither fork nor shock nor post.
> This will flush/wash out the (very important) grease from your wipers and cause the suspension products to work even worse after the initial lubrication wears off - which is usually very quickly.
> Yes, it does feel good pretty nice right after applying, but I do not recommend any of those, as it won´t be good on the long run.
> I think the guys from One Up will agree.


Curious as to your opinion on slick honey?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

*OneSpeed* said:


> What do you recommend to keep the OneUp dropper post lubricated?





TwoTone said:


> Curious as to your opinion on slick honey?


Slickoleum (SRAM butter) or Slick Honey are our recommended options.


----------



## Klainmeister (Apr 14, 2012)

Can someone post up the dimensions of the shim? I think I'm going to cut out my own vs waiting for an overpriced part. Looks near 50mm wide?


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

OneUp said:


> Slickoleum (SRAM butter) or Slick Honey are our recommended options.


do you apply the lube under the top collar?


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

Klainmeister said:


> Can someone post up the dimensions of the shim? I think I'm going to cut out my own vs waiting for an overpriced part. Looks near 50mm wide?


Going by name you are in Europe, l can send you mine, l dont need it 
PM me


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

or on Monday l can post the dimensions

Sorry going to the mountains tomorrow (WOOHOO!)


----------



## Klainmeister (Apr 14, 2012)

For anyone else who wants to do this, i figured it out and tested it:

horizontal top: 48mm
vertical height: 52mm

each leg is approx 5mm wide. 
top bar is 3mm or so.

Just took a yogurt lid and cut it was a razor, installed, good to go.


----------



## Arseni (Jun 28, 2010)

Considering this dropper ro replace my reverb, that is making weird sounds.
One question: I got Sram Guide R brakes. Should I get a clamp version of the remote? Or is MMX going to fit?


----------



## Cocabonga (Sep 6, 2018)

I believe something is wrong with actuator assembly with my out of the box one up.
I just simply can't find a way to fit a cable.
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aj6i7jIh7hV_g-0-xArQYCUFDQGgwg


----------



## Klainmeister (Apr 14, 2012)

Cocabonga said:


> I believe something is wrong with actuator assembly with my out of the box one up.
> I just simply can't find a way to fit a cable.
> https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aj6i7jIh7hV_g-0-xArQYCUFDQGgwg


Remove the o-ring, slip in the ball end of the cable into the whole and use the slit for the cable, put o-ring back on.


----------



## Cocabonga (Sep 6, 2018)

Actuator is assemblied incorrectly from the factory. I can't slip the end barrel of the cable into the actuator. Check the picture. Now I am thinking how to make it right.


----------



## Red Rock (Sep 12, 2014)

Looking at the wrench flats of the actuator, I'd say somebody already messed with the post. If you look at the service instructions, it shows you how to take the actuator off. Once off, the pice can be removed and turned the right way.


----------



## Cocabonga (Sep 6, 2018)

Red Rock said:


> Looking at the wrench flats of the actuator, I'd say somebody already messed with the post. If you look at the service instructions, it shows you how to take the actuator off. Once off, the pice can be removed and turned the right way.


That was me, I tried to unscrew it but could not even make a turn, wrench just slips of, its aluminum assebly...
Are you talking about this instructions:
https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/dropper-service-instructions
This is one falls in category: shittiest instruction in the world. Which way to turn the actuator, clockwise or counter clockwise? What is the torque to tighten it back? What is the torque to tighten pin screws?
And the installation instruction have no pictures, how would I find out the wrongly assembled part if there is no picture how it should look correctly? I have a bit of disappointment at the moment with this product.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Hey man, you should make a quick video of this as it's super hard to tell if something is wrong. It was my first dropper install for me and watching the video on YouTube made it go really fast and easy. I assume you've watched the video below?


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

I might suggest to my son to start printing shims with his 3D printer. He could charge $5 including shipping.


----------



## jon_ssss (Feb 20, 2009)

*mistake


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Cocabonga said:


> I believe something is wrong with actuator assembly with my out of the box one up.
> I just simply can't find a way to fit a cable.
> https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aj6i7jIh7hV_g-0-xArQYCUFDQGgwg


Hey Cocabonga, Sorry for the confusion. The tip of the actuator is on backwards. You just need to pull it off by hand, turn 180deg and push it back on. Next insert the 'ball' end of the cable per the instructions.

I haven't seen this mistake in assembly before. Is there any chance you had the tip off?

I hope that helps,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

cmg71 said:


> or on Monday l can post the dimensions





Klainmeister said:


> For anyone else who wants to do this, i figured it out and tested it:
> 
> horizontal top: 48mm
> vertical height: 52mm
> ...





TwoTone said:


> I might suggest to my son to start printing shims with his 3D printer. He could charge $5 including shipping.


Hey guys,

Here are the shim dimensions. It you are handy enough to make one up go for it. We do sell them with every remote and three packs will be back in stock around Sept 25.

You can find zipties that are about the right cross section and use three as well.

Why they aren't with the post is a long story but it certainly isn't an attempt to gouge anyone.









Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## Cocabonga (Sep 6, 2018)

OneUp said:


> Hey Cocabonga, Sorry for the confusion. The tip of the actuator is on backwards. You just need to pull it off by hand, turn 180deg and push it back on. Next insert the 'ball' end of the cable per the instructions.
> 
> I haven't seen this mistake in assembly before. Is there any chance you had the tip off?
> 
> ...


Thank you, however I learned it hard way. I dissasembled lower actuator, but aluminum is so soft, that wrenches were slipping off. The only winner in this fight was pipe wrench, but now actuator is ugly. So I have it unscrewed and found out that that lower tip is not bolted at all and could have been pulled out by hand without actuator removal.
It so bad there is no even exploded view available for this post.









Отправлено с моего SM-A520F через Tapatalk


----------



## jstuhlman (Nov 23, 2008)

Maybe a silly question-does it matter if the post is extended or dropped when I adjust the air pressure?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Cocabonga said:


> Thank you, however I learned it hard way. I dissasembled lower actuator, but aluminum is so soft, that wrenches were slipping off. The only winner in this fight was pipe wrench, but now actuator is ugly. So I have it unscrewed and found out that that lower tip is not bolted at all and could have been pulled out by hand without actuator removal.


Sorry to see that. Hit us up at [email protected] and we'll get you a replacement actuator assembly.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

jstuhlman said:


> Maybe a silly question-does it matter if the post is extended or dropped when I adjust the air pressure?


Yes it does. The post needs to be fully extended when setting/adjusting pressure.

Cheers
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

I'd just send that guy a new post and have him send that screwy one back OneUp. He put the time in to do it on his own with limited resources and fought the good fight but didn't work. That would be my expectation of solid support for a new post. That would make me a repeat customer but anything less would be frustrating since it's all brand new stuff.


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

As a note, 3 days mtb-ing around the Swiss, Austrian & Italian borders and the dropper worked flawlessly, and it was used a lot.



OneUp said:


> Hey Cocabonga, Sorry for the confusion. The tip of the actuator is on backwards. You just need to pull it off by hand, turn 180deg and push it back on. Next insert the 'ball' end of the cable per the instructions.
> Jon @ OneUp


I did this with the install, I put the actuator tip on the cable first, then turned and mounted it 180deg out, theoretically not needing the o-ring, I mounted the o-ring though anyway. 
The cable ball is now "locked" in and cannot come out without removing the actuator tip. 
For me this was a logical move.


----------



## j0nttu (Jun 14, 2011)

cmg71 said:


> I did this with the install, I put the actuator tip on the cable first, then turned and mounted it 180deg out, theoretically not needing the o-ring, I mounted the o-ring though anyway.
> The cable ball is now "locked" in and cannot come out without removing the actuator tip.
> For me this was a logical move.


As did i, any reason not to install it like this? Or should i go and flip the actuator tip before riding just to be safe?


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

j0nttu said:


> As did i, any reason not to install it like this? Or should i go and flip the actuator tip before riding just to be safe?


What's gonna happen if you don't?


----------



## skywalker991 (Feb 18, 2017)

I thought I will give my opinion on the 170mm OneUp dropper post.

I've had a 150mm Fox Transfer for over a year but Oneup attracted my attention because its lower stack (so more room when I slam it down).

Now, I've read a lot of good opinions about this post and I have a couple of Oneup products and generally I'm happy about them. However, this post is just *rubbish*.

- this is my second, brand new, oneup dropper. The first one was faulty out of the box. Horrible grind when compressed and extended
- the second one doesn't grind as much but is far from buttery smooth. I read a few opinions on some forums people comparing it to Fox Transfer saying it's as good/smooth. It's not true. You can feel friction at all times, quite similar to Giant dropper in this regard. Fox just feel friction-less in comparison. It's something you don't miss until you experience it. Saying that, I can live with this if you give me low stack in return.
- The absolute dealbreaker to me is related to clamping. I found that anything over 3nm on seat collar causes the dropper to either not return fully (e.g. it stops 80%) or slow return or just give more friction/grind. My frame recommendation is ~5-6nm btw. Now, I wouldn't have a problem to go by with 3nm or whatever if the (seat)post stayed in place when I ride - but it doesn't. Sorry but how the hell this post the quality control with such major flaw?!
- I use Wolftooth remote and the lever motion is just way harder & less smooth than with Fox transfer. I suspect this is because Oneup moves the outer rather than inner cable to trigger the dropper - which imo is just stupid design
- the dropper is super sensitive to inner cable tension. anything under or over a certain tension and it behaves odd
- shims is still out of stock after 2 months of ordering. Seriously, being out of stock with (very overpriced) piece of plastic that you advertise as the main selling point?! 
- smaller issues. Return speed isn't as fast as I would like to (air pressure ~270psi), and the pop when it gets fully extended isn't as loud as I would like. Small things and not dealbrakers.

The post is going back where it came from. I love the low stack but Oneup needs to get back to the drawing board; bad design, bad quality control and bad execution. Even at half price it's money wasted if it doesn't work properly.


----------



## phuchmileif (Aug 10, 2016)

This is starting to sound like my experience with the X-fusion Manic.

Published reviews are 100% positive. Everyone claims the post is a simplified, dead reliable game-changer at the $200 price point.

And you know what? It ****ing sucked. Lots of complaints about having to keep watch the torque on the seatpost clamp (FYI for manufacturers: if your dropper is sensitive to this, your dropper is ****), and I had constant issues with the seat rail clamp. The absolute nastiest, creakiest **** I've ever dealt with. So bad that the saddle actually slowly gets less comfortable...and when you go to adjust it, you realize one clamp bolt is now absurdly tight (usually the front one). The extended post had a mildly worrying amount of slack (bushing play; not rotational) when new, and after a few months is absolutely terrible.

One of the most obnoxious, telling things? The chinesium cable end. Supposed to be a 2mm, but made so sloppy that it would just strip out with any torque at all (was using an unworn Snap-on socket, so no, not the tool's fault), so the cable kept slipping until I replaced the damn thing myself.

I just fitted a BikeYoke to my other bike, and I could lean HARD on that thing without rounding the stupid little grub screw out. Like, really, X-fusion? You couldn't spend two cents more to make the post work out of the box? Also, the BikeYoke could be installed with the cut cable end at the lever (...which I didn't know until too late), WHICH SHOULD BE THE INDUSTRY STANDARD. WHO DESIGNS THIS STUPID CRAP?!

...sorry. Yeah. Droppers are still a frustrating market. It's not that ****ing hard to build a post with a good bushing/stanchion interface (...most fork manufacturers have had this figured out for a while...?), a quality seat clamp, and a release mech not made of cast or MIM pot metal.


----------



## phuchmileif (Aug 10, 2016)

Oh, and BTW, just so I don't sound like a BikeYoke fanboy: I think the broken post pictured above is horseshit, too. How did a reversed clamp cause that, when the seat isn't even slammed all the way in either direction? I see no way in which clamp orientation causes that- that is straight up just a case of the material not coping with the stresses induced by the rider. Maybe he's really heavy, maybe he leans hard on the back of the saddle, whatever. It shouldn't matter.

There's a reason dropper manufacturers don't want to offer setback posts: they can't even get a straight one to be reliable. It is so damn strange that the whole POINT of a dropper is to give you a proper seating position while pedaling...but oh, please don't lean on it too hard. It can't really take your weight. And those millimeters of play that, IMO, are critical to the setup of a bike that you _actually pedal_? Yeah, just don't worry about those...


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

^ these guys know how to rant! Kudos! 

Some valid complaints above. I've experienced a couple myself. The shim thing is effin ridiculous. (for the record I don't need a shim, I use a 170 at full length with room to spare). It should come free with every post, period. It also should not have been made available until the shims were available. Big mistake IMO. 

That said, with regards to the low stack design, it's brilliant. The design addressed multiple flaws in other dropper designs that have been ignored for years. It's a big step in the right direction and OneUp should get credit for every manufacturer following suit... 2 years later. Believe me, it will happen. 

I think that people need to keep in mind that this is a first gen product. It's not perfect but offers great value and opens a few doors for people who want to maximize their saddle drop. No doubt the next gen will address some of the issues being discussed here, but as long as the OneUp customer service is good, hopefully they can retain customers with issues. 

side note: while I agree the Fox transfer post is one of the best on the market, you can't service it at home. Only an authorized Fox service center with the appropriate tools (which aren't cheap) can do it. The OneUp cartridge is much more user friendly. 

It's all good info though. Thanks for sharing guys.


----------



## phuchmileif (Aug 10, 2016)

...I may have got on a bit of a tangent there.

It's just frustrating that droppers have been in their 'infancy' for years now. Companies keep coming to market with new posts...sometimes their second or third generation...and yelling 'Eureka! We've finally done it! Take this one to the bank, boys!' And we keep getting disappointed.

It's symptomatic of the bike industry as a whole. It reminds me of why I quit playing video games; at least you get like four usually-trouble-free years out of a Playstation now before it's forced into obsolescence. But the games? The day one patches for the games still in beta, that people pay to test? That may never really work right? Yeah, that seems like a painfully close analogy...


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Some valid complaints above. I've experienced a couple myself. The shim thing is effin ridiculous. (for the record I don't need a shim, I use a 170 at full length with room to spare). It should come free with every post, period. It also should not have been made available until the shims were available. Big mistake IMO.
> 
> That said, with regards to the low stack design, it's brilliant. The design addressed multiple flaws in other dropper designs that have been ignored for years. It's a big step in the right direction and OneUp should get credit for every manufacturer following suit... 2 years later. Believe me, it will happen.


I agree about the shim, ridiculous. But a nice idea if you need it.

But BikeYoke was already all over the low stack height, they had managed to make a 160mm fit where most 150mm posts couldn't. Their dimensions are very similar to OneUp for fitment versatility. I replaced a 125mm 9Point8 with a 160mm BikeYoke for that reason. And because I find it to be the best designed post on the market, completely user serviceable and rebuildable. Nothing disposable. And the Revive feature is fantastic.


----------



## skywalker991 (Feb 18, 2017)

Right, if published reviews are 100% positive and "some" users' reviews are positive too than it clearly proves the i/net is full of horse $hit and needs a reset ;-) 

I totally agree, low stack is the way forward but just to note that Oneup hasn't invented a wheel. Yes their dropper has the lowest stack but other posts are close e.g. bikeyoke 37mm vs 42mm going by the info on their respective websites. Oneup is not that cheap either if you add up lack of packaging/instructions/bits (not a biggie), my wasted itme, no shims. That's easy over £200 when you add all these up and all of the sudden the price is not far off from other posts. 

I was considering Bikeyoke too but the only thing that put me off is bleeding. I know it's pretty simple but how often do you have to do it? every ride? Would you recommend this dropper? 

Don't even start with video games!  I've been a gamer for a long time and hate to see what happened to the industry....$$$ driven greed is really destroying it. There are some good ones but there soooo much $hite. I would go even as far as saying that bike industry is not far of. Bikes for £7k? seriously?! I built Devinci Spartan and it cost me ~£3k, love this bike but still think it should be ~£1.5k max. They b$hit you with sweet talk about costs of custom design and what nots, then you get a dropper that fails at basic levels and makes you wonder if 5yrs old was designing it - and surely nobody testing it. And all this laced up with pretty much mass production from shimano/sram anyway. Yes carbon frames are more expensive to make but c'mon these folks in Asia are paid like 30c per hour to make it. There is a reason why there are so many bike bike companies popping out all of the sudden - they can sniff $$$ / high profit margins. Slightly of the topic. 

As a customer I don't really care whether it's 1st, 2nd or 5th gen. I want a reliable product that does what it supposed to. Droppers been around for a while and it's not a rocket science. Btw, when do you know which gen. is the "finished" one? are you prepared to buy each gen. and find out the hard way. I am not. I'm not paid to test their stuff or have time to do so. Oneup should have focused on designing and testing this dropper rather than sweet talkin$ reviewers. It will take a lot of convincing before I pick another Oneup product. my 3c.


----------



## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

Honestly this is disappointing to read.


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

skywalker991 said:


> As a customer I don't really care whether it's 1st, 2nd or 5th gen. I want a reliable product that does what it supposed to. Droppers been around for a while and it's not a rocket science. Btw, when do you know which gen. is the "finished" one? are you prepared to buy each gen. and find out the hard way. I am not. I'm not paid to test their stuff or have time to do so. Oneup should have focused on designing and testing this dropper rather than sweet talkin$ reviewers. It will take a lot of convincing before I pick another Oneup product. my 3c.


Real simple solution to this one, never buy a new product. Stick with 5 year old technology that's well proven.


----------



## skywalker991 (Feb 18, 2017)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Real simple solution to this one, never buy a new product. Stick with 5 year old technology that's well proven.


Amen


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

skywalker991 said:


> I was considering Bikeyoke too but the only thing that put me off is bleeding. I know it's pretty simple but how often do you have to do it? every ride? Would you recommend this dropper?


The current version that has been shipping for quite a while has a modification to reduce the frequency of needing to perform "Revive" internal bleeds, from occasionally to almost never. I have done it once so far, just to see how it works. Even if it was needed every ride I would still like the BikeYoke post, it is very simple process and takes a few seconds. As it is, if I ever need to use it I will be very glad to have the option. The post works great, feels great and is overall the best I have yet to use. Definitely recommend.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Often it's the problems that get the most attention and voice. Just so anyone reading all this isn't inordinately put off, there are lots of people that have a great experience with the post. For me (I got one like 3mo ago) it's been exceptional with a Wolftooth Light Action Remote. When I go back to my buddies Fox transfer I can't handle it. It's far too slow to return etc. Install was simple (just keep cable tension) and I haven't had any issues. It also has ZERO play in it which is really really nice. I was going to get a Revive but the lack of shim options in 185, slight play and that I can't tip my bike upside down wasn't ideal. Plus it was a fortune for just a dropper. Amazing product but a bit lacking in a couple areas for the price. I do wish my OneUp was a 185 or 200mm tho (now that my bike is built and I can test it) . I could use the extra drop at 6-4. YMMV


----------



## phuchmileif (Aug 10, 2016)

skywalker, I think we're soulmates. LOL. I will defend the cost of bikes to some degree, but when it comes down to it, yes, I think profit margins are super high. When companies like SRAM and Shimano are selling component packages to builders for what seems like pennies on the dollar, you can be damn sure they still aren't doing it at a loss. But we still get this perverse concept of value, because _damn_, I can't buy the parts for that build for anywhere NEAR what they're selling that bike for.

That Altus derailluer on a cheapo bike can't cost more than a few bucks. Sure, that XTR one is way better, but what justifies it costing $200 instead of like...two dollars. Heh.

I fix cars for a living, and it has caused me to make two observations.

1) **** can be made for a bafflingly low price these days. I've gotten truck rotors with integral dually adapters for like fifty bucks a piece. Like, holy crap, these things probably have sixty pounds of steel in them! And no measurable runout! And they include hardened bearing races (i.e. a precision part). Why am I paying $50 for a little dinky MTB rotor that wobbles out of the box?!

2) People really struggle with scaling mark-up. I get told all the time that I don't mark up parts high enough...corporate stooges like to see a fixed percentage. _That doesn't work_. If I'm paying $500 for an AC compressor or a catalyst, I damn well can't sell it for $300 over counter price just because you want to see 200% of cost. Tell you what, Manager McDipshit, how about I start selling those 50 cent bulbs for a dollar instead of the $5 that no one ever scoffs at?

I cringe to think about what percentage of profit must be in high-end bicycle parts. I'd bet money that it's about about the same as the cheap parts, which is just silly. Manufacturers should be happy to get $100 for a $50 part, rather than saying 'but we get $10 for the $1 part!' *****, you're still making 41 more goddamned dollars.

Jesus, I'm really going off the rails here. Sorry.


----------



## phuchmileif (Aug 10, 2016)

svinyard said:


> Often it's the problems that get the most attention and voice. Just so anyone reading all this isn't inordinately put off, there are lots of people that have a great experience with the post. For me (I got one like 3mo ago) it's been exceptional with a Wolftooth Light Action Remote. When I go back to my buddies Fox transfer I can't handle it. It's far too slow to return etc. Install was simple (just keep cable tension) and I haven't had any issues. It also has ZERO play in it which is really really nice. I was going to get a Revive but the lack of shim options in 185, slight play and that I can't tip my bike upside down wasn't ideal. Plus it was a fortune for just a dropper. Amazing product but a bit lacking in a couple areas for the price. I do wish my OneUp was a 185 or 200mm tho (now that my bike is built and I can test it) . I could use the extra drop at 6-4. YMMV


This is very fair and I will echo it. I'm saying that I'm disappointed to see a lot of people having issues with this post, but truly, we don't know that. Maybe >99% are trouble-free; I got no way to tell.

On the Revive: I haven't had any issues tipping the bike upside down. Nor was I aware that I should? I leave the post extended, and make sure to cycle the revive lever a few times after the bike has been upright for a bit. Not even sure what that does...it might be a tiger-proof rock, for all I know.

I am slightly suspicious of your zero play claim. I didn't think anyone had achieved that...the problem that I see is that everyone wants to make the smallest post possible that fits the most applications, so the stanchion and body are always very similar lengths. This inherently leads to slop with the post extended, as there is very little stanchion to be supported by the bushings, and there has to be enough clearance to prevent binding. I can think of a lot of ways to mitigate this issue, but I've yet to see a teardown where it looks like any manufacturer has really given this the serious thought that it deserves...

Maybe I'll make my own dropper post. With blackjack and hookers.


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

GRPABT1 said:


> Honestly this is disappointing to read.


mmmmm l dont think so, l had some initial disappointment (as l detailed above) but that was possibly my fault, since then the post had worked flawlessly.
YMMV


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

phuchmileif said:


> This is very fair and I will echo it. I'm saying that I'm disappointed to see a lot of people having issues with this post, but truly, we don't know that. Maybe >99% are trouble-free; I got no way to tell.
> 
> On the Revive: I haven't had any issues tipping the bike upside down. Nor was I aware that I should? I leave the post extended, and make sure to cycle the revive lever a few times after the bike has been upright for a bit. Not even sure what that does...it might be a tiger-proof rock, for all I know.
> 
> ...


Here is a video of me trying to twist the saddle and move it around (the most common type of play). It literally has no play. Initially mine did have some play when I did this, about 1/2 mm or so but then I found that it was actually the seat clamp. I adjusted that and boom, zero play. Torqued down to about 5.75nm or so (I have a crappy torque wrench).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uYnyVgqkBGW2gnAY9

FWIW yeah if you tip over your BikeYoke, often you'll have to "Revive" it to some degree. Not a big deal or that it breaks anything. Maybe with enhancements its not an issue anymore?


----------



## skywalker991 (Feb 18, 2017)

svinyard said:


> Here is a video of me trying to twist the saddle and move it around (the most common type of play). It literally has no play. Initially mine did have some play when I did this, about 1/2 mm or so but then I found that it was actually the seat clamp. I adjusted that and boom, zero play. Torqued down to about 5.75nm or so (I have a crappy torque wrench).
> 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/uYnyVgqkBGW2gnAY9
> 
> FWIW yeah if you tip over your BikeYoke, often you'll have to "Revive" it to some degree. Not a big deal or that it breaks anything. Maybe with enhancements its not an issue anymore?


you got 5th gen lucky batch reviewer's edition! ;-)

two of my oneup droppers had play and would not extend with torque of 4nm on seat collar with problems starting at 3nm


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

skywalker991 said:


> you got 5th gen lucky batch reviewer's edition! ;-)
> 
> two of my oneup droppers had play and would not extend with torque of 4nm on seat collar with problems starting at 3nm


Yeah that sucks and is really weird. Have you double checked your seat post collar and verified your wrench is right? Most people have a crappy torque wrench and not a 100-200$ that's proper. Also it seems like seat post collars are all over the place size wise. Not much of a standard there and they very in small but meaningful amounts.

A second check would be to put the post into a different bike as a way or seeing if it's your setup or the post.

Not sure what edition but let's not act like everyone is having your problem because they aren't.


----------



## rangersac (Nov 7, 2016)

Well my 170mm on a Banshee Spitty works sweetly. I have at least 5nm on the saddle clamp and use a Cane Creek Dropt Lever. As others have noted, I switched the actuator head around 180 degrees on install as well. No creaks, took all of 20 minutes to install, it's as smooth as any dropper I have used and a rapid has return with a satisfying clunk.


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

I cant say what Torque value I have on the seat clamp, as I tighten slightly, try it out, if it slips the tighten more, etc etc etc
What I can say is it is definitely more that 4nm, in fact its pretty tight.
I also have no play in the seat.

Im also not sure why people have come to this thread to complain about other brands though 

and not sure where you are buying a One Up Dropper for £200 :eekster:, I think you need a new shop.......
https://www.bike-components.de/en/S...acturer_id=544&order=popularity_desc&limit=20 note that prices are € not £, when I checked thats ~£168


----------



## skywalker991 (Feb 18, 2017)

cmg71 said:


> and not sure where you are buying a One Up Dropper for £200 :eekster:, I think you need a new shop.......
> https://www.bike-components.de/en/S...acturer_id=544&order=popularity_desc&limit=20 note that prices are € not £, when I checked thats ~£168


you misunderstood my point.


----------



## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

skywalker991 said:


> I thought I will give my opinion on the 170mm OneUp dropper post.
> 
> I've had a 150mm Fox Transfer for over a year but Oneup attracted my attention because its lower stack (so more room when I slam it down).
> 
> ...





phuchmileif said:


> Oh, and BTW, just so I don't sound like a BikeYoke fanboy: I think the broken post pictured above is horseshit, too. How did a reversed clamp cause that, when the seat isn't even slammed all the way in either direction? I see no way in which clamp orientation causes that- that is straight up just a case of the material not coping with the stresses induced by the rider. Maybe he's really heavy, maybe he leans hard on the back of the saddle, whatever. It shouldn't matter.
> 
> There's a reason dropper manufacturers don't want to offer setback posts: they can't even get a straight one to be reliable. It is so damn strange that the whole POINT of a dropper is to give you a proper seating position while pedaling...but oh, please don't lean on it too hard. It can't really take your weight. And those millimeters of play that, IMO, are critical to the setup of a bike that you _actually pedal_? Yeah, just don't worry about those...





svinyard said:


> Here is a video of me trying to twist the saddle and move it around (the most common type of play). It literally has no play. Initially mine did have some play when I did this, about 1/2 mm or so but then I found that it was actually the seat clamp. I adjusted that and boom, zero play. Torqued down to about 5.75nm or so (I have a crappy torque wrench).
> 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/uYnyVgqkBGW2gnAY9
> 
> FWIW yeah if you tip over your BikeYoke, often you'll have to "Revive" it to some degree. Not a big deal or that it breaks anything. Maybe with enhancements its not an issue anymore?


I have owned my 185mm revive for 2 months now and I regularly store my bike upside down (I like to have the fork seals nicely lubricated)  and have not had to use the revive feature since the day 1.
The only time I used it was when I installed the post...
Also, the 185mm revive and fox transfer 150mm are almost identical in length.


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

skywalker991 said:


> you misunderstood my point.


I dont think l did, l chose to ignore the first world problems, and focus on the main mis-information, and price is very important to a lot of people


----------



## skywalker991 (Feb 18, 2017)

cmg71 said:


> I dont think l did, l chose to ignore the first world problems, and focus on the main mis-information, and price is very important to a lot of people


If you ignoring the first world problems why did you get a dropper post in the first place :ihih:

My point was that Oneup comes with absolutely nothing in the box except malfunctioning post  This wasn't a biggie for me but something to keep in mind. For example, Fox Transfer comes with outer and inner etc. that's ~£20 easy these days where profit margins on little things are extorionate. There was no mis-information in my post. You just read what you wanted to read


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

skywalker991 said:


> If you ignoring the first world problems why did you get a dropper post in the first place :ihih:
> 
> My point was that Oneup comes with absolutely nothing in the box except malfunctioning post  This wasn't a biggie for me but something to keep in mind. For example, Fox Transfer comes with outer and inner etc. that's ~£20 easy these days where profit margins on little things are extorionate. There was no mis-information in my post. You just read what you wanted to read


Fox transfer comes with nothing in the box. The inner and outer come in the box with the Fox remote.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

skywalker991 said:


> The post is going back where it came from. I love the low stack but Oneup needs to get back to the drawing board; bad design, bad quality control and bad execution. Even at half price it's money wasted if it doesn't work properly.


I'm very sorry you had this experience. We stand behind the product and would like to get you a replacement. We recently caught and fixed an issue with the broach that causes the problem you describe but the number of affected posts was tiny. The fact that you got two is uncanny. Please e-mail us at [email protected] so you can get you taken care of. If you'd still like to send the post back for a refund I understand.



phuchmileif said:


> This is starting to sound like my experience with the X-fusion Manic.
> 
> Published reviews are 100% positive. Everyone claims the post is a simplified, dead reliable game-changer at the $200 price point.
> 
> And you know what? It ****ing sucked.


Just to be clear you're describing the Manic not OneUp correct?



*OneSpeed* said:


> ^ these guys know how to rant! Kudos!
> 
> Some valid complaints above. I've experienced a couple myself. The shim thing is effin ridiculous. (for the record I don't need a shim, I use a 170 at full length with room to spare). It should come free with every post, period. It also should not have been made available until the shims were available. Big mistake IMO.


I agree the shim is ridiculous. We vastly under estimated the shim popularity and have sold out multiple times. The shims are available with every lever and will be back in stock on there own shortly.



skywalker991 said:


> As a customer I don't really care whether it's 1st, 2nd or 5th gen. I want a reliable product that does what it supposed to. Droppers been around for a while and it's not a rocket science. Btw, when do you know which gen. is the "finished" one? are you prepared to buy each gen. and find out the hard way. I am not. I'm not paid to test their stuff or have time to do so. Oneup should have focused on designing and testing this dropper rather than sweet talkin$ reviewers. It will take a lot of convincing before I pick another Oneup product. my 3c.


I agree here as well. I assure you your experience is not typical. I hope you'll let us prove that to you in the future.

Jon. Owner @ OneUp


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

The prices in the link l gave include post/remote/cable/shim.......
actually, everything you need, ok instructions are shitty but with half a brain anyone can work it out

Im sorry you lucked out with your post, l didnt and am pretty stoked with it. (if you need a shim, l'll send you mine)



skywalker991 said:


> If you ignoring the first world problems why did you get a dropper post in the first place :ihih:
> 
> My point was that Oneup comes with absolutely nothing in the box except malfunctioning post  This wasn't a biggie for me but something to keep in mind. For example, Fox Transfer comes with outer and inner etc. that's ~£20 easy these days where profit margins on little things are extorionate. There was no mis-information in my post. You just read what you wanted to read


----------



## phuchmileif (Aug 10, 2016)

OneUp said:


> Just to be clear you're describing the Manic not OneUp correct?
> 
> Jon. Owner @ OneUp


Yes, I was venting on the Manic. And then on the dropper market in general- like I said, just disappointed to hear that it seems like a not-insignificant amount of people are having problems.

To your credit: I have seen no dropper threads, period, where _everyone_ is having a flawless experience. Even with $400-500 posts. And I much appreciate manufacturers that come to these forums to hear people out and try and make sure that everyone is taken care of.

As negative as I may sound- I actually have one of your posts on order. I considered pursuing another option, but that was part of my rant...there's nothing else out there, especially in the $200-300 pricerange, that it making me say 'okay, THAT'S the one!'

I was trying to get the OneUp on my Commencal before a bike park trip next week, but it looks like I'm going to have to stick with the Manic (which already has an RMA ticket open, LOL) for a few more rides until your post comes back into stock at Jenson.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

phuchmileif said:


> Yes, I was venting on the Manic. And then on the dropper market in general- like I said, just disappointed to hear that it seems like a not-insignificant amount of people are having problems.
> 
> To your credit: I have seen no dropper threads, period, where _everyone_ is having a flawless experience. Even with $400-500 posts. And I much appreciate manufacturers that come to these forums to hear people out and try and make sure that everyone is taken care of.
> 
> ...


There's always Gravity Dropper if you want a relaible dropper.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

after about 4 months of use, my dropper started to have a grindy or crunchy noise when moving the dropper down? i keep it fairly clean and wipe off the stanchion after every ride.


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

useport80 said:


> after about 4 months of use, my dropper started to have a grindy or crunchy noise when moving the dropper down? i keep it fairly clean and wipe off the stanchion after every ride.


Mine developed a similar feeling. Unscrew the collar/dust wiper, raise the bushing, wipe it down with a clean rag, apply a thin layer of Slick Honey, actuate, re-apply another thin coat if necessary, then put it back together.

This completely solved my gritty feeling and slow return. It now pops up like it did when new.


----------



## Krikstar (Feb 11, 2008)

useport80 said:


> after about 4 months of use, my dropper started to have a grindy or crunchy noise when moving the dropper down? i keep it fairly clean and wipe off the stanchion after every ride.


Same here :-( Been perfect for 4½ months but the last cuple rides it has been binding a bit at the top and today all of a sudden major grinding noises, not returning fully, hard to push down etc. Why is it so hard to get a decent dropper that just works!? 

Edit: Will have to try the fix described above, but it sounds really bad so my expectations are quite low... Wish me luck ;-)


----------



## skywalker991 (Feb 18, 2017)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Mine developed a similar feeling. Unscrew the collar/dust wiper, raise the bushing, wipe it down with a clean rag, apply a thin layer of Slick Honey, actuate, re-apply another thin coat if necessary, then put it back together.
> 
> This completely solved my gritty feeling and slow return. It now pops up like it did when new.


If I were you I would NOT do that. I used to have Giant dropper post and did exactly that. The dropper wasn't smooth to start from but not grindy per se but started to grind properly after a short period of time....Took it to Giant service and they told me off for this (they said it's not good for seals + it attracts dirt) Oneup may be different in this regard but it would be good to confirm with Oneup first. Either way, it shouldn't grind in the first place.


----------



## skywalker991 (Feb 18, 2017)

OneUp said:


> I'm very sorry you had this experience. We stand behind the product and would like to get you a replacement. We recently caught and fixed an issue with the broach that causes the problem you describe but the number of affected posts was tiny. The fact that you got two is uncanny. Please e-mail us at [email protected] so you can get you taken care of. If you'd still like to send the post back for a refund I understand.
> 
> Jon. Owner @ OneUp


Thanks for chipping in. 2 shots are usualy enough for me  Especially, when turnaround for each is 1 month due to supply issues. Plus if I install & uninstall another dropper again anytime soon I'm going to cry ;-) So I'm going through a refund route. Anyways, I've purchased BikeYoke 160mm instead, took it for a test ride yesterday and it's everything I wanted really...low stack, buttery smooth operation of a dropper and lever. Hopefully it's as reliable as Fox Transfer. Good luck with your venture.


----------



## Krikstar (Feb 11, 2008)

skywalker991 said:


> If I were you I would NOT do that. I used to have Giant dropper post and did exactly that. The dropper wasn't smooth to start from but not grindy per se but started to grind properly after a short period of time....Took it to Giant service and they told me off for this (they said it's not good for seals + it attracts dirt) Oneup may be different in this regard but it would be good to confirm with Oneup first. Either way, it shouldn't grind in the first place.


Eeerrrh... I just did that :-/ Nah, just kidding it's all good ;-)

OneUps own service guide tells you how to service it. I just did it to test if it would make a difference, before spending time trying to service it properly. It didn't really do anything but that was expected. I'll give it a proper service in the weekend and if that does not help I'll probably have to ask OneUp for a new cartridge or a refund as I'm a bit dissapointed as for now. 4 month of not very much use does not bode well for longevity... ;-(


----------



## Cocabonga (Sep 6, 2018)

Hello everyone! So one up send me a new actuator assembly! That's surprisingly good, so I have installed it immediately. Very good customer support!
About dropper: I also have zero play in this dropper, this is a bit mind blowing because all of my other dropper posts do have a side play. Remote lever is extremely smooth, I have my left thumb broken a bit, and that is an only remote tell which makes no pain to my hand. So nice! 
Anyway dropper itself have a bit of drag, I put Sram butter underneath the collar, but bontrager dropper works more smoothly. And actuator itself a bit strange design, it pulls the cable with housing to dropper, this creates movements of cables in my internal routing bicycle frame, well, nothing serious, but just a strange design.









Отправлено с моего SM-A520F через Tapatalk


----------



## skywalker991 (Feb 18, 2017)

Cocabonga said:


> About dropper: I also have zero play in this dropper


Two of my oneup droppers had the usual side to side play...just like Giant, Fox Transfer. My new Bikeyoke has almost zero. Saying that I don't notice how this impacts my riding in the slightest. Smooth operation up/down certainly does.


----------



## cytoe (Jan 20, 2004)

Cocabonga said:


> Hello everyone! So one up send me a new actuator assembly! That's surprisingly good, so I have installed it immediately. Very good customer support!
> About dropper: I also have zero play in this dropper, this is a bit mind blowing because all of my other dropper posts do have a side play. Remote lever is extremely smooth, I have my left thumb broken a bit, and that is an only remote tell which makes no pain to my hand. So nice!
> Anyway dropper itself have a bit of drag, I put Sram butter underneath the collar, but bontrager dropper works more smoothly. And actuator itself a bit strange design, it pulls the cable with housing to dropper, this creates movements of cables in my internal routing bicycle frame, well, nothing serious, but just a strange design.
> 
> ...


The cable housing moves enough that I lubed where it enters the frame. This is the only negative so far on this post.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

I cleaned my post stantion last night with a rag that had some alcohol on it and then all of the sudden the post was sticking in the last 20mm or so. No more thunk to the top. Good thing it was an easy fix: (some info from OneUp here too as they quickly got back to me)

Add a little waterproof grease (ie. Slickoleum, Slick Honey, Wet Seal, Silicon Shine), below the main bushing under the seal head and cycle the post. Depress the post a little, unscrew the post collar, extend the post and grease the bushing. You can even remove the bushing (there is a slice in it) and clean it/grease it. OneUp that found due to our tight tolerances it takes sometime for the post to bed in. I did reduce my torque from 6nm to 4nm during my testing...but that had no effect and my seatpost sticks out 2-3 inches from the seat collar anyways. Its now at 4.5nm but again it had no issue at 6 so this wasn't my issue. The final thing (critical for me, as after greasing it wasn't perfect yet), I left my bike upside down over night. Woke up this morning and BAM, the post is flawless and even smoother now (my own greasing was helpful for this). Also ensure your PSI is between 250-300...I bumped mine up to close to 300 and its perfect, I like the little extra speed and louder thunk (doesn't hurt my nuts either).

It was nice that I could do all of this without needing a single tool either. Pretty cool.


----------



## jskinner10 (Dec 31, 2015)

I'm about to give up on this thing. Installed it, worked great, then I took it for a 3 mile ride and now it refuses to return. If it's slammed to the collar it will pop up about 20 mm, anywhere else in it's travel and it just sits there. I have tried replacing the cable, remote and upping the pressure (to 300psi). Also, nowhere on OneUp's website do they have a phone # or general info email where you can contact them. I really want to like this post, but I may have to look elsewhere.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

jskinner10 said:


> I'm about to give up on this thing. Installed it, worked great, then I took it for a 3 mile ride and now it refuses to return. If it's slammed to the collar it will pop up about 20 mm, anywhere else in it's travel and it just sits there. I have tried replacing the cable, remote and upping the pressure (to 300psi). Also, nowhere on OneUp's website do they have a phone # or general info email where you can contact them. I really want to like this post, but I may have to look elsewhere.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


Let me help you out. Email super easy to find, scroll to the bottom and there is a "Contact us" link with several options. [email protected] will work just fine. I got responses back in less than 24hrs.

But lets see if we can get your post fixed up. Its good to try things one at a time to truly see what the issue is methodically.

1- First off, try the barrel adjustment. Tighten the cable a bunch and see if the cable tension was potentially off or it slipped out of the remote a bit. My dropper was slowly dropping as I rode yesterday, I had my cable too tight. Adjusted the barrel to loosen it and it was back to perfect. (using WT LA remote).

2- reduce the torque down to 3mm just to see if that makes a significant change. I thought that was my issue but it wasn't and my post works fine with 6nm on carbon bike.

3- Manually pull your post out enough, like 70% (not the whole way). Then unscrew the top collar of the dropper (not your seatpost collar which is bolted on). Then hit the remote and the post should pop out and the white bushing will come with it too. It should come out even more aggressively now since it isn't sealed or fighting the bushing. Worse case, pull the lever and pull the seat up.

Video showing how to remove the collar for shim:




4- Remove the bushing (there is a slice in it). Clean it and lube with slick honey above and below it. Try to get some in the collar seals as well by putting a touch on the stantion and running the collar up and down.

5- Reassemble it back together and only put 3nm of torque (make sure this is true).

6- Leave the bike upside down overnight.

My post was sticking towards the top of the travel (tho the post sticks out of seattube about 3in...sounds like yours is slammed). I did all of this in about 15 minutes and in the morning my post was even better than normal. Something tells me your seat post collar is over-torqued tho and you didn't list your settings. The fact that slamming it (putting more of the post beneath the collar) further exacerbates the issue is a clue to this imo. Good luck!


----------



## ashwinearl (Jan 2, 2004)

cytoe said:


> The cable housing moves enough that I lubed where it enters the frame. This is the only negative so far on this post.


So you have to ensure that your entire run of cable housing can move? I've got internal routing with covers at both ends that lock down onto the housing to keep it from rattling around. also the entry into the seat tube is tight and the cable catches on the frame's chipped paint.

Can you keep a little extra slack in the housing at the bottom of the post to account for movement?

I wonder if this was why my first attempt at actuating it didn't work, I pushed on my lever so hard and nothing happened. I wonder if the housing wasn't budging at all and therefore not doing anything?

EDIT: I think i got it, Just the last section from the down tube to the seat tube has some movement in it, and I greased up the grommet on the seat tube. Initially, I was setting it up without the grommet and the housing was catching on sharp edges of the inlet slot on the seat tube.

EDIT: I experienced an issue with how far the post was in the bike. I could feel it bottom out in the seat tube where my linkage is, but was hoping the actuator wasn't affected and went through. The post kept sinking in travel and not staying down. Raising it up a few mm stopped that. So just because the main post part goes in all the way, keep in mind there still might be some pressure on the actuator depending on your frame.


----------



## ashwinearl (Jan 2, 2004)

Is there a correct orientation for the green end piece at the bottom of the post? I see how you put the cable end through the window and insert the cable end into the bottom of the post. But this removable green piece can be oriented two ways. It can go right on or you can rotate it so you can't see the cable end.


























I am assuming now that it is like the last picture. Because so far I tried it like the 2nd picture and the cable end keeps coming out. But I also just learned that the entire housing needs to move to actuate and I think my housing is locked pretty tight with the covers of the internal cable routing.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

My housing is ultra tight because of my port covers and some ultralight foam tubing literally stuffed into the large cable port above my BB on the downtube. The thing works great. I can't imagine the cable housing is moving back and fort to actuate? OneUp says iirc that you want to ensure the cable/housing is snug when inserting the post. So I pulled on it slightly from the bars while slowly inserting the post in.


----------



## jskinner10 (Dec 31, 2015)

I packed a healthy dose of grease under/around the seal and bushing. I also backed off on the seat post clamp to about 4nm. These two things seem to have solved the issue. Hopefully this is the end of issues with this post because when it works, it's pretty fantastic.


svinyard said:


> Let me help you out. Email super easy to find, scroll to the bottom and there is a "Contact us" link with several options. [email protected] will work just fine. I got responses back in less than 24hrs.
> 
> But lets see if we can get your post fixed up. Its good to try things one at a time to truly see what the issue is methodically.
> 
> ...


Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

oddly enough, when i first got my post, it was 2.5nm on the seat collar and everything worked fine. today, 2-3 months later, i find that even 2nm is too much. it sticks, and goes up 85-90%, then i just have to pull it up. as of right now, i've fastened it to 1.5nm and it seems to shoot back up normally again. not sure wtf happened.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

useport80 said:


> oddly enough, when i first got my post, it was 2.5nm on the seat collar and everything worked fine. today, 2-3 months later, i find that even 2nm is too much. it sticks, and goes up 85-90%, then i just have to pull it up. as of right now, i've fastened it to 1.5nm and it seems to shoot back up normally again. not sure wtf happened.


That's not right imo. Far to little torque. Do the above procedure and leave the bike upside down and see if it fixes it. I had the exact same issue and it fixed it better then the ultra low torque.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

jskinner10 said:


> I packed a healthy dose of grease under/around the seal and bushing. I also backed off on the seat post clamp to about 4nm. These two things seem to have solved the issue. Hopefully this is the end of issues with this post because when it works, it's pretty fantastic.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


Glad it worked out for you. Don't hesitate to leave the bike upside down overnight. That was the final game changer for me. Not sure exactly why but it made the difference and the fork was better than new (still is). Cheers!


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

svinyard said:


> That's not right imo. Far to little torque. Do the above procedure and leave the bike upside down and see if it fixes it. I had the exact same issue and it fixed it better then the ultra low torque.


when you say leave it upside down, are you hanging it upside down by the tires? or are you simply putting it on the resting on the handlebars and saddle?


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

useport80 said:


> when you say leave it upside down, are you hanging it upside down by the tires? or are you simply putting it on the resting on the handlebars and saddle?


Handlebars and saddle. I'm sure hanging it by the tires too


----------



## tibowski (Jan 9, 2014)

Same 20mm stuck problem to me today. That dropper is total faulty. Now tried to grease and the upsidd down method but don’t trust so much in it. I think I’ll ask for refund and go for another one.


----------



## Chicane32 (Jul 12, 2015)

delete


----------



## RBoardman (Dec 27, 2014)

I got a OneUp dropper 6 months ago and have been VERY happy with it until a few days ago. 
When pushing the lever, dropper post does not return to its full extension. The air pressure is set at 275psi. (Verified with two different shock pumps) The seat collar is tightened to the recommended spec by my bike manufacture. I have followed the service instructions provided on the oneup website step by step and applied a fresh coat of slick honey to the specified components. The cable is tensioned properly.

Let me know if anyone has any ideas what is wrong. I just sent out a warranty request, so I'll see what OneUp also has to say.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Geez dude... Did you even read any of the thread above?


----------



## RBoardman (Dec 27, 2014)

svinyard said:


> Geez dude... Did you even read any of the thread above?


I started reading from the beginning, so I got tired before I got to your posts [2 weeks ago]. So the key is to keep the bike upside down? Is this a long term fix?


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

RBoardman said:


> I started reading from the beginning, so I got tired before I got to your posts [2 weeks ago]. So the key is to keep the bike upside down? Is this a long term fix?


Its hard to say exactly what the deal is, but mine has been exceptional except for that one day I cleaned the stantion with alcohol and didn't let it dry before I cycled it. The tolerances in the bushing are very tight (a good thing).

I wouldn't say the fix is only about an upside down bike, tho that seemed to be a critical and easy part of my fix. I removed the bushing, cleaned it and regreased it. I put a decent amount of slick honey also below the bushing area and above near the seal. My torque is right at 5nm today and working well. I'd do the whole thing (its fast) and then turn it upside down for the night.

Why I turned it upside down, at least initially, was that when I cycled the fork accidentally with the collar and bushing loose...I saw a white looking grease on the stantion. That made me think perhaps that grease was critical in the upper portion.

Who knows, but the process has worked for some people. Kind of a quick shotgun approach.

FWIW, I could tell my issue was where the bushing and the collar and seal come together. I knew this because my 170mm post sticks out of my seat tube like 3-4in (I'm 6-4) and when the collar/bushing were loose...the post cycled aggressively and quickly. When I put the bushing and collar back on...it wouldn't cycle all the way...stopping about 20mm from finishing despite 300psi. So I greased the heck out of the bushing (after I removed and cleaned it), collar and seal and flipped the bike for a night. Back to being amazing for the last month or so iirc. Good luck dude


----------



## ashwinearl (Jan 2, 2004)

Is there some kind of semibath oil in there too that gets into the top of the post when you turn it upside down? Is this is similar to a suspension fork with semi bath between the outer legs and stanchions. Turning the fork upside down helps get the semi bath to the upper seals.

I am just wondering what is it about turning this post upside down that works. 

You mentioned seeing a white grease under the bushing? It would have to be thin enough to move to make turning it upside down effective. 



Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

ashwinearl said:


> Is there some kind of semibath oil in there too that gets into the top of the post when you turn it upside down? Is this is similar to a suspension fork with semi bath between the outer legs and stanchions. Turning the fork upside down helps get the semi bath to the upper seals.
> 
> I am just wondering what is it about turning this post upside down that works.
> 
> ...


Not sure man. It wasn't necessarily under the bushing but came from down further into the post and only showed up after I cycled it. It wasn't a liquid by any means but simply jogged my mind to try out what I do for Forks. I can't explain why turning it upside down worked exactly, but it def helped my bike. Perhaps it was the slick honey that slowly bled overnight upwards into the seals or something. Regardless, it doesn't hurt. Maybe after greasing it, it just took a night to bed in a bit or something to that effect and having my bike upside down had zero effect.


----------



## RBoardman (Dec 27, 2014)

Lubed up the shaft and flipped this bad girl on her back for the night. wait, am I on the right forums....


----------



## ashwinearl (Jan 2, 2004)

What kind of lube? I have Fox 20 wt semi bath oil and slikoleum. As well as more traditional grease, bike lube.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

ashwinearl said:


> What kind of lube? I have Fox 20 wt semi bath oil and slikoleum. As well as more traditional grease, bike lube.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


Slick Honey is what I use. I think that may be the same/similar as Slikoleum.

Any improvement RB? Sounds like you lubed the shaft...fwiw I put a fair amount of slick honey below the bushing (after cleaning it), below the collar and above the collar. It wasn't as minimal as just a shaft lube. Hoping that worked out for you.


----------



## RBoardman (Dec 27, 2014)

svinyard said:


> Slick Honey is what I use. I think that may be the same/similar as Slikoleum.
> 
> Any improvement RB? Sounds like you lubed the shaft...fwiw I put a fair amount of slick honey below the bushing (after cleaning it), below the collar and above the collar. It wasn't as minimal as just a shaft lube. Hoping that worked out for you.


I lubed everything and it is back to extending 98-100% of its travel. It still doesn't feel like new, but there was definitely some merit into turning it upside down.

OneUp responded and said that shouldn't happen regardless, and that they would send me a new post. So shout out to them for the great customer service.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

RBoardman said:


> I lubed everything and it is back to extending 98-100% of its travel. It still doesn't feel like new, but there was definitely some merit into turning it upside down.
> 
> OneUp responded and said that shouldn't happen regardless, and that they would send me a new post. So shout out to them for the great customer service.


You might hit it again with honey, upside down again...and then up the PSI to 300 just for the moment. Loosen your seatpost collar a bit down to maybe 4nm temporarily. It should come back to top with gusto and a thwack sound.


----------



## RBoardman (Dec 27, 2014)

Ok, after a little ways into my ride the seat post went back exactly the way it was before of not returning to its full length. 

Oh well, new one on its way.


----------



## nemesis256 (Aug 16, 2014)

I just installed mine, and maybe already having problems with it. Only one ride so far but I noticed it was getting pushed down about an inch just from my weight on it. I needed to have it all the way down in the frame for my correct saddle height, so I guessed it was maybe getting pushed/triggered slightly. I installed the shim to shorten it, it's maybe better, not sure yet. Apart from that it's still finicky. If I push it down just a bit (which would never happen with regular use), it wants to come up by itself slowly. If I push it down a normal amount, it says there and comes up as it should when the lever is pushed. 

We'll see...


----------



## ashwinearl (Jan 2, 2004)

I had this issue at first too. My carbon frame has internal webbing in the seat tube that limits the max insertion of a seatpost. It is only on one side and I thought the actuator and cable housing would go through while the outside if the post would hit the webbing. 

First time I installed it, the seat wouldn't hold my weight. I raised it by few mm and it stopped doing that. 

This style of post is sensitive to the actuator being pushed in which is what happens when you pull on the cabke. The housing pushes the actuator into the bottom of the post. This is different than the cable itself pulling on something like other posts.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

nemesis256 said:


> I just installed mine, and maybe already having problems with it. Only one ride so far but I noticed it was getting pushed down about an inch just from my weight on it. I needed to have it all the way down in the frame for my correct saddle height, so I guessed it was maybe getting pushed/triggered slightly. I installed the shim to shorten it, it's maybe better, not sure yet. Apart from that it's still finicky. If I push it down just a bit (which would never happen with regular use), it wants to come up by itself slowly. If I push it down a normal amount, it says there and comes up as it should when the lever is pushed.
> 
> We'll see...


try loosening the cable tension on your remote. I can make my post do this (slowly recess a bit over time) by adding too much tension on my Wolftooth light action remove. A half turn on the barrel adjuster and it all goes away.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

ashwinearl said:


> I had this issue at first too. My carbon frame has internal webbing in the seat tube that limits the max insertion of a seatpost. It is only on one side and I thought the actuator and cable housing would go through while the outside if the post would hit the webbing.
> 
> First time I installed it, the seat wouldn't hold my weight. I raised it by few mm and it stopped doing that.
> 
> ...


If you pull on the housing when installing (keeping a light tension on the housing as you insert the post), you shouldn't have this problem and should be able to get full insertion....theoretically at least .


----------



## nemesis256 (Aug 16, 2014)

svinyard said:


> try loosening the cable tension on your remote. I can make my post do this (slowly recess a bit over time) by adding too much tension on my Wolftooth light action remove. A half turn on the barrel adjuster and it all goes away.


Just did that and I think it fixed it, thanks!


----------



## powderturns (Jun 19, 2007)

albeant said:


> Just FYI, the bottom of the actuator (along with the housing) is actually pulled up on actuation, while the cable end stays static. That was the cause of my install problem, as the housing needs to be able to move up and down freely in the seat tube.


The original KS internal posts worked this way. Eventually they bind on something, depending on your frame. It's a stupid design that KS fixed. The whole purpose of a cable housing is to protect the cable and provide a low friction environment for it to move. I'd get a Bike yoke or a KS over the one up for this reason.


----------



## maximo (Nov 2, 2011)

OneUp said:


> Sorry for the delay in getting on here. Couldn't comment before the official release and PB comment section goes mental
> 
> Yes, The cartridge is a user replaceable, sealed gas/hydraulic unit. warranty on the unit is 2 years. Replacement cost after warranty is $80.
> 
> ...


I bought a 150mm version and I was wondering can the 170 cartridge be installed to transform my 150 version to 170 travel?


----------



## gr8fasushi (Aug 14, 2014)

so it's designed for the cable housing to move in and out of the frame when the lever is actuated? I have mine installed properly and everything works great, except that the cable housing can be seen moving when it's actuated. I've since upgraded my cable housing to Shimano SP41 and I felt that it made the actuation smoother than the Jagwire that was installed. But the cable housing still moves up and down when pressed.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

maximo said:


> I bought a 150mm version and I was wondering can the 170 cartridge be installed to transform my 150 version to 170 travel?


The 170 and 150 posts are different so just changing the cartridge won't lengthen the post.

Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## cesjr (Jul 13, 2011)

So I have a Fox Transfer in my Switchblade with a Wolftooth light action. No problems it works fine. I just bought a 150mm One Up for my Surly Wednesday. Should I put the Transfer in the Surly and the One Up in my Switchblade? or not?


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

cesjr said:


> So I have a Fox Transfer in my Switchblade with a Wolftooth light action. No problems it works fine. I just bought a 150mm One Up for my Surly Wednesday. Should I put the Transfer in the Surly and the One Up in my Switchblade? or not?


six of one half a dozen of the other


----------



## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

Thanks to those that posted in this thread. I really wanted to buy one of these, but the issue of the cable housing moving with the post actuation was sorta the straw that broke the camels back for me. I ended up ordering a bikeyoke revive instead. I'm still interested in this post and when that issue gets resolved I'll likely end up buying one of these for my other bikes. IMO the issues that people were having here were small enough for me to just roll the dice and deal with the warranty. Having the housing shifting inside a fully sleeved frame is a recipe for bad times. 

I love oneup and this post has the potential to shake up the dropper post market tremendously, just needs a revision to the first design.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

minimusprime said:


> Thanks to those that posted in this thread. I really wanted to buy one of these, but the issue of the cable housing moving with the post actuation was sorta the straw that broke the camels back for me. I ended up ordering a bikeyoke revive instead. I'm still interested in this post and when that issue gets resolved I'll likely end up buying one of these for my other bikes. IMO the issues that people were having here were small enough for me to just roll the dice and deal with the warranty. Having the housing shifting inside a fully sleeved frame is a recipe for bad times.
> 
> I love oneup and this post has the potential to shake up the dropper post market tremendously, just needs a revision to the first design.


This is an odd thing tho. My housing is probably in a tighter frame than 99.9% of bikers out there yet mine works great. I have a large Di2 port on the bottom of my RM instinct frame, so I have the brakes, shifter and OneUp post cables/housings going through there. Now the stock setup comes with two neoprene housing sleeves to keep noise away. I went overboard and put on a long swath of vacuum foam tubing that is like 1.5in wide. Its stuffed in there and I had a hard time fitting the Di2 port/covering in too (it has a large protrusion for holding a battery on it).

Everything is freaking packed in there just before the BB at the bottom of downtube. No issues with housing moving etc. Also my housing cable for the post is taped to my housing for my front brake line at the bars to keep everything looking clean and sleek. All of means that my housing is NOT moving much if at all. its literally tapped down at the bars and stuffed at the BB.

I think the housing moving thing is somewhat of a boggyman issue that isn't real. if it is, its probably an install done poorly and not the function of the cable/housing.

Hard to go wrong with the BikeYoke of course. Its awesome and it only gets better. It is nearly twice the cost tho.


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

svinyard said:


> I think the housing moving thing is somewhat of a boggyman issue that isn't real. if it is, its probably an install done poorly and not the function of the cable/housing.


my thoughts as well


----------



## AaronJobe (Sep 20, 2009)

Does this post operate the same as the reverb conversion where the barrel on the cable is stationary and the housing is what pushes up to activate the post? I recently upgraded the reverb on my Bronson V3 with the revive and I’m not a fan.. I like how the fox transfer and KS operate where the housing is stationary and the cable end is what is pulled to activate the post. I love all of my oneup pedals and edc so I wanted to give the post a try but if it operates like their reverb upgrade I will have to pass. I think the internal cable routing makes the lever stiff if that makes any sense.


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

OneUp said:


> Jon @ OneUp


Hi Jon,
Yesterday in -2 C the my post went down, but didnt come back up, no biggie my Crank Bros Highline has issues at those temps to. I was able to manually raise it, and it stayed locked, so I was content.
I figured the post would warm up during the day (inside at work) and then function normally (the same as my Highline does), unfortunately this wasnt the case.
So I did the following:
- left bike upside down all night in garage, ~12 C, no change
- removed collar and cleaned white plastic piece, helped a little
- checked pressure, low at 230psi so I pumped it to 300, also helped a little bit
- removed collar again to double check all, post has no marks/scratches etc, clean as a baby's bum
- at the moment the bike is again upside down

I did notice a few things throughout my procedures:
- with the white plastic piece out, the post functions perfectly
- I couldnt insert the white plastic piece all the way in while the post was in the upper position, I needed to lower it a bit
- loosening the collar appeared to help
- after reassembly each time, the post worked fine for about 5 times then reverted back to sticking

I havent touched the seat post clamp since I installed the post (3 months), so that counts that out, unless due to winter it has tightened due to shrinkage , but this also wasnt my first ride in these temps. As can be seen in the pic, the white plastic piece isnt getting "pressed" by the seat clamp as the post is about 7cms out of the frame (ignore the arrows, that was for something else)

At the moment the post only sticks in the lowest 3cm, above that it raises perfectly, it feels the same as always ie: not "grindy" and still smooth.

got any ideas?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

The hosuing might move about 5mm inside the frame. This should not be the cause for any troubles. I have never seen a frame, where you actually clamp/fix the housing between where it enters the frame and where it connects to the post. You can always set the cable to have that 5mm extra cable slack inside you frame, no matter the frame design. 
I don´t see, why people think this is a problem at all. You just need to know that the cable mus be able to move a few millimeters.
If you should really have a frame wiht little distance from cable entry to post, then just slightly compress the housing, when you push the post inside the frame.
Just so that the housing makes a slight bend inside the frame and all is good.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

AaronJobe said:


> Does this post operate the same as the reverb conversion where the barrel on the cable is stationary and the housing is what pushes up to activate the post? I recently upgraded the reverb on my Bronson V3 with the revive and I'm not a fan.. I like how the fox transfer and KS operate where the housing is stationary and the cable end is what is pulled to activate the post.


May I ask, why you are not happy with the upgrade from your old Reverb to the BikeYoke REVIVE? This confuses me, as our REVIVE also has the hosuing stationary.
Or are you just mistakenly mixing up the OneUp Dropper with the BikeYoke REVIVE dropper here?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

cmg71 said:


> got any ideas?


It sounds like you are taking all the right steps except potentially adding some light grease (slickoleum, slick honey or SRAM butter).

If that doesn't help just e-mail us at [email protected]. We stand behind everything we make and will get you running without any downtime.

Note that with our design storing upside down isn't needed (though it's good for your fork) and low temp should have no effect.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

Funnily enough l was getting the bike ready for my commute, figured ld give the post a go, it worked flawlessly again, l lowered and raised it approx 20 times, lll go back down later and try again.
Weird


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

I didnt get back down to test yesterday, but this morning before I left it was working fine, I ended up commuting on another bike so no further info


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

no, not working :nonod:

email to OneUp sent, will keep you all informed


----------



## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

Hey guys, I just bought a OneUp 150mm dropper (without the remote), still awaiting shipment.
Would like to ask those using the wolftooth remote if there's any tangible difference between the standard remote (which is what wolftooth recommends) and the light action version (they say it's compatible, but standard remote is preferred)?
I am planning to get a wolftooth remote to pair with this dropper, so I would like some input before I give up my money to the LBS which stocks the remote.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Light action is best imo. The post has a somewhat firm action and the light action helps smooth it out. Can't go wrong with either but the light action works awesome on mine. Pnw components remote is an option too.


----------



## LowLow (Sep 18, 2007)

I haven't tried the light action, but I had a KS Lev Southpaw before, and the standard action lever is shorter, which I don't like. In retrospect, I would've gotten the light action, which I assume is longer to create the additional leverage.


----------



## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

Thanks for the info guys, I’ll go with the LA version then!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## da799 (Jul 17, 2014)

I went with the LA lever. No issues yet and its a lovely piece of kit


----------



## D(C) (Jun 17, 2013)

I just set up my 170 mm OneUp post that I bought during their black friday sale. The post feels smooth, but there is a small amount of vertical play (looks to be less than 1 mm). Similar to what Vital noted, the post drops a hair when fully extended (also less than 1 mm) with a bit of weight on it, and returns to full extension when the lever is pressed with an audible 'pop'.

Does anyone else's post do this, or is this a sporadic issue?


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

cmg71 said:


> no, not working :nonod:
> 
> email to OneUp sent, will keep you all informed


So, as l thought l need to send the post back to where l purchased it from, bike-components.de,
at least they said if its a warranty case they will refund postage, hopefully be able to send before end of week.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

D(C) said:


> I just set up my 170 mm OneUp post that I bought during their black friday sale. The post feels smooth, but there is a small amount of vertical play (looks to be less than 1 mm). Similar to what Vital noted, the post drops a hair when fully extended (also less than 1 mm) with a bit of weight on it, and returns to full extension when the lever is pressed with an audible 'pop'.
> 
> Does anyone else's post do this, or is this a sporadic issue?


We've talked about this a couple of times in the thread iirc. In most instances, if the post slides a bit down, it can be fixed via loosening the cable barrel adjuster. Some extra tension on the cable can cause a little slip down. Not saying that's your exact issue but it's an easy adjustment to test a few times. I don't notice any vertical play or any at tbh. Its not something I mess with or test anymore tho. Any play I did have ended up being seat bolts not being torqued enough


----------



## D(C) (Jun 17, 2013)

svinyard said:


> We've talked about this a couple of times in the thread iirc. In most instances, if the post slides a bit down, it can be fixed via loosening the cable barrel adjuster. Some extra tension on the cable can cause a little slip down. Not saying that's your exact issue but it's an easy adjustment to test a few times. I don't notice any vertical play or any at tbh. Its not something I mess with or test anymore tho. Any play I did have ended up being seat bolts not being torqued enough


Thanks. I skimmed the thread but I guess I missed that. I will try playing with cable tension to see if that helps. I did try this quickly before I posted here, but it didn't seem to help.

I bought the post on a bit of a whim with their sale prices without doing a ton of research. Now that I read the thread and hear about the issues people are having with sticky posts, I hope I didn't make a mistake. It's replacing an X-Fusion Manic 150 which has been as reliable as it gets.


----------



## EatsDirt (Jan 20, 2014)

I'm fairly happy with the post... a little slickoleum takes care of sticky return issue, but that remote lever leaves a lot to be desired. Lasted all of two months and is being replaced with something better quality/rebuildable (wolftooth). 

Some times cheap ends up costing you more in the long run...


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

cmg71 said:


> So, as l thought l need to send the post back to where l purchased it from, bike-components.de,
> at least they said if its a warranty case they will refund postage, hopefully be able to send before end of week.


as an update, postage is refunded, and new post is on the way, so far lm happy 

except l have to go to Korea for work, so l wont be able to see/install it till the new year


----------



## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

OneUp said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Here are the shim dimensions. It you are handy enough to make one up go for it. We do sell them with every remote and three packs will be back in stock around Sept 25.
> 
> ...


Thanks for posting that. I was in the fence about keeping mine. The remote isn't as nice as the Loam Lever and I will return that. Too many reported broken levers, and it just looks and feels cheap. Sorry, not a great remote at $50. But I would also have to return the shims that come with it. No shims mean it won't fit right or I have to buy shims. I was about to return the whole lot and get a PNW post, but thought about making my own shim. I sure didn't expect to see the dimensions posted here or even the zip tie hack suggestion. That saved the day for the oneup dropper I have. I'll be keeping it and trying the DIY shim.

Another was just the absurdity that the shims come with the remote and not the post. Long story? Pleas do tell! And change that. It really does make you guys look like you are gouging customers. It is a key feature and you have to buy a lever or a 3 pack? Come one, figure it out. OneUp can innovate with things like Switch (soon to be in all my bikes) and EDC tools. But you can't figure out how to put a piece of plastic in a cardboard box?


----------



## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

Just received my One Up post in the mail, thought I could use my KS Lev Southpaw remote but I was wrong, need the cable clamp at the remote end not the post end. Bugger. I guess I'll buy a wolf tooth lever, anyone know if the light action or normal wolf tooth works best with the One Up dropper?


----------



## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

Managed to use the KS lever by putting a crimp on the seatpost end of the cable 😁 

If this lasts I have new housing and cable to go on anyway.


----------



## EatsDirt (Jan 20, 2014)

Doug said:


> The remote isn't as nice as the Loam Lever and I will return that. Too many reported broken levers, and it just looks and feels cheap. Sorry, not a great remote at $50.


It's as if the "loss leader" is the post and the profit is in the lever as a consumable?!? I'd be surprised if the injection molding, assembly etc costs more then $5 a lever. Disappointing, but much happier with the action/feel of the WT remote anyway.


----------



## Chicane32 (Jul 12, 2015)

GRPABT1 said:


> Just received my One Up post in the mail, thought I could use my KS Lev Southpaw remote but I was wrong, need the cable clamp at the remote end not the post end. Bugger. I guess I'll buy a wolf tooth lever, anyone know if the light action or normal wolf tooth works best with the One Up dropper?


The light action works great on my 170.


----------



## da799 (Jul 17, 2014)

Chicane32 said:


> The light action works great on my 170.


I also went with the LA on my 170. Fantastic


----------



## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

Crap, now I’m thinking if I should have gotten the 170mm instead of the 150mm. I am 1.8m tall, lol..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Stopbreakindown (Jun 27, 2011)

Anyone know the stanchion diameter?

I have a 31.6/150mm that I'm trying to buy a Wolftooth Components Valais and don't own any calipers
They have 25mm and 26mm flavors, kinda hard to just eyeball it :haha 
Need to throw a revelate viscacha bag on the back for longer rides.

TIA


----------



## EatsDirt (Jan 20, 2014)

My cheap plastic calipers measured a little under an inch, around 24.5mm.


----------



## djindian (Mar 20, 2017)

Have you figured this out?


----------



## Stopbreakindown (Jun 27, 2011)

djindian said:


> Have you figured this out?


Not yet, I submitted a query to ONEUp
I'll post my findings when I hear back


----------



## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

Well crimped cable and KS Southpaw lever works, but the action is fairly stiff and heavy. Thought it was the cable and outer so I changed it and it's not much better. It would seem the One Up definitely suits a light action lever. I'll persist with it for now, I only notice it's heavy when I compare to my other bike.


----------



## sp00n82 (Sep 23, 2013)

Yeah, I've used a cable clamp that came with a (motor bike) bowden cable repair kit with my KS Southpaw remote. A regular crimped end cap somehow didn't really work for me.
It's a bit ugly, and sometimes the beginning of the stroke is very harsh. It's probably a combination of the lever and the cable routing I had to do, with a very sharp curve to enter the seat tube. I'll probably swap it for a Wolftooth lever as well (Light Action seems to be the favorite here).

One thing about the shims, I ordered the post during the black friday sale, without any remote, and nonetheless have received a pack of three shims. Which was also mentioned in the post description (somewhat ambiguously though), so at least they seemed to have figured out that issue.


----------



## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

sp00n82 said:


> Yeah, I've used a cable clamp that came with a (motor bike) bowden cable repair kit with my KS Southpaw remote. A regular crimped end cap somehow didn't really work for me.
> It's a bit ugly, and sometimes the beginning of the stroke is very harsh. It's probably a combination of the lever and the cable routing I had to do, with a very sharp curve to enter the seat tube. I'll probably swap it for a Wolftooth lever as well (Light Action seems to be the favorite here).


Yeah I actually used a fishing crimp and a hydraulic crimper so it's on there TIGHT and it's actually nice and neat looking.


----------



## Shepski (May 24, 2006)

The PNW Loam lever works so smoothly with the OneUp! Like butter.


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Shepski said:


> The PNW Loam lever works so smoothly with the OneUp! Like butter.


I was really liking my OneUp dropper for last few months until sticky lever action, I have the WT remote. Now I excessive front to back play that I can feel while riding. This can't be normal anyone else have this problem ? Over 1/8 play at full extension you can see this while grasping saddle and pushing front to rear. Play can be seen at bottom of dropper at seal area.


----------



## Chicane32 (Jul 12, 2015)

dgw7000 said:


> I was really liking my OneUp dropper for last few months until sticky lever action, I have the WT remote. Now I excessive front to back play that I can feel while riding. This can't be normal anyone else have this problem ? Over 1/8 play at full extension you can see this while grasping saddle and pushing front to rear. Play can be seen at bottom of dropper at seal area.


I just checked my 170 and I also have some front to back play at the seal/collar, like yours. As of now it's about 3mm, but it's not normal like side to side play seams to be on various brands. My dropper has 260 miles and it's been flawless so far, but now this.

OneUp. Is there a fix for this or does the dropper need to be sent back?


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Fwiw do a double check on the collar of post (tightening with you hand) and definitely try torquing down the seat. I had a little play in my saddle and thought it was the post. It was just my install that wasn't perfect. I think I had my saddle back a bit further than it was supposed to be and it wasn't tight enough. Quick fix.


----------



## Chicane32 (Jul 12, 2015)

svinyard said:


> Fwiw do a double check on the collar of post (tightening with you hand) and definitely try torquing down the seat. I had a little play in my saddle and thought it was the post. It was just my install that wasn't perfect. I think I had my saddle back a bit further than it was supposed to be and it wasn't tight enough. Quick fix.


Saddle is tight and I slightly tightened the collar with no luck. I can see the movement at the collar.


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

cmg71 said:


> as an update, postage is refunded, and new post is on the way, so far lm happy
> 
> except l have to go to Korea for work, so l wont be able to see/install it till the new year


I have received my new post, hopefully install it on the weekend.
Unfortunately I have received the old cable, cable housing and lever back, this is ok its just that I had to cut the crimp off the cable to remove the cable from the Lever and housing, so now Im worried the cable may be short.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Chicane32 said:


> Saddle is tight and I slightly tightened the collar with no luck. I can see the movement at the collar.


Alright well maybe go a little deeper.

Remove the collar by hand (of the post not the seat post) , clean the bushing (and grease with slick honey/sram butter) and inspect it a bit. Tighten back up and double check the torque on your seat post collar.

Sounds like it's a bit off tho and may need replacing. Doing the procedure above will prob earn you a bit quicker warranty tho if it's still an issue as youve done the due diligence.


----------



## Chicane32 (Jul 12, 2015)

svinyard said:


> Alright well maybe go a little deeper.
> 
> Remove the collar by hand (of the post not the seat post) , clean the bushing (and grease with slick honey/sram butter) and inspect it a bit. Tighten back up and double check the torque on your seat post collar.
> 
> Sounds like it's a bit off tho and may need replacing. Doing the procedure above will prob earn you a bit quicker warranty tho if it's still an issue as youve done the due diligence.


I removed the collar and movement looks like it's from the tolerances in the white plastic bushing allowing the movement. I would like to try another bushing and see if it makes a difference.

Now I need Oneup to send me a new bushing.


----------



## springs (May 20, 2017)

Are any of the 170mm Oneup droppers giving 170mm of travel? Just wondering if it's been marketed incorrectly or it's a functional issue all these reports about not getting full travel.


----------



## jskinner10 (Dec 31, 2015)

robmac48 said:


> Are any of the 170mm Oneup droppers giving 170mm of travel? Just wondering if it's been marketed incorrectly or it's a functional issue all these reports about not getting full travel.


I get a full 170mm from mine.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

Just received my 31.6 150mm post today. The actual travel is 145mm. Is this normal?


----------



## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

KVV said:


> Just received my 31.6 150mm post today. The actual travel is 145mm. Is this normal?


I'll measure mine in the morning and report back.


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

cmg71 said:


> I have received my new post, hopefully install it on the weekend.
> Unfortunately I have received the old cable, cable housing and lever back, this is ok its just that I had to cut the crimp off the cable to remove the cable from the Lever and housing, so now Im worried the cable may be short.


My worries were unfounded 

Finally fitted the post today and have a few observations:
* this post didnt feel "grindy" like the first post did
* was pumped to 200psi, I increased it to 290psi
* the lever action is a lot lighter than the first post, in fact its awesome :thumbsup:
* unfortunately this post has a little side play (the first post didnt), at the nose of the seat is approx 1-2mm play, no biggie for me
* I added some SRAM Butter, no noticeable improvement in action but figure it cant hurt

I also measured the drop distance due to some concerns recently, for me its ok :thumbsup:, if i was pedantic i could say it is 169mm but that could also be my measuring 

Hopefully this post will go better than the last, it feels totally different so maybe the last was defective from the start, we will see.

I bought the post from https://www.bike-components.de/en/ and was given a new post and my postage costs were refunded, so I cant really complain.


----------



## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

My 31.6 150mm post has 148mm of drop, 2mm really doesn't bother me.


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

GRPABT1 said:


> My 31.6 150mm post has 148mm of drop, 2mm really doesn't bother me.


Mine I'd say will drop 144mm. But the dimensions are correct (stack height, "C" on the diagram). This is weird but is actually fine with me. I need exactly this stack height.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

i've noticed there's some play on the dropper, and it's not the saddle clamps either. i haven't been in any crashes, so no damage to the dropper or bike.

i put a rubber band on the stanchion to help you see the movement. it's about 4-6mm left and right.

here's a video:


----------



## rondre3000 (May 29, 2009)

robmac48 said:


> Are any of the 170mm Oneup droppers giving 170mm of travel? Just wondering if it's been marketed incorrectly or it's a functional issue all these reports about not getting full travel.


I was just about to post the same! My latest OneUp dropper seems to give the same travel of the Fox Transfer 150mm post it is replacing. Will remeasure this evening and then contact OneUp about a replacement.


----------



## Chicane32 (Jul 12, 2015)

useport80 said:


> i've noticed there's some play on the dropper, and it's not the saddle clamps either. i haven't been in any crashes, so no damage to the dropper or bike.
> 
> i put a rubber band on the stanchion to help you see the movement. it's about 4-6mm left and right.
> 
> here's a video:


My 150 Fox transfer had the same side to side movement, just as my 170 Oneup does. Both have about 2-3mm side/side. If I recall my KS Lev also had the side/side movement, so it appears to be normal for dropper posts. My Oneup also has about 2-3 forward/rearward movement, which isn't normal.

To me your video looks similar to mine with 2-3mm, but doesn't look near 6mm, but could just be the video.

Also my 170 drops 168mm so it drops as expected.


----------



## rondre3000 (May 29, 2009)

Just confirmed, I do have 170mm of travel. So far so good!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

Thanks all for replies.

The numbers on the 150mm post just cannot be true. I measure exactly 187mm stack height to the center of seat rails and exactly 145mm of exposed travel. If travel was 5mm more, stack height will be 5mm higher, too.

In reality I need precisely this stack height. If it was higher, I'd need a spacer. So the less 5mm of travel does not bother me at all. I was more worried that the post might be defective if it does not extend all the way. But it extends freely and stops with a definitive clank, like expected.


----------



## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

If you look closely the seal actually rides up over where the post starts to taper out at the seat end, so depending on how you're measuring the travel it can be deceiving.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

GRPABT1 said:


> If you look closely the seal actually rides up over where the post starts to taper out at the seat end, so depending on how you're measuring the travel it can be deceiving.


yeah, definitely true. i attached a lil rubber band to act as a lil o-ring when i measure my stroke length.


----------



## slimphatty (Sep 9, 2011)

I'm having a hard setting up my one up dropper. It was working fine but today the cable just feels loose. Pushing down on the lever it has some good tension feel and then if i push hard enough..the cable just gives...I've made sure the screw that holds the cable down it tight. Once the lever pushes through it's intial give..the cable feels very loose and gives a lot of slack.

I also lost the O ring that goes on the dropper. Is there someway I can Jerry rig it? Maybe tie a rubber band around it? 

On a side note...the one up lever feels so cheap. One up should be ashamed. They should've just released a nice metal one like the wolftooth.


----------



## beer_coffee_water (Mar 1, 2011)

slimphatty said:


> I'm having a hard setting up my one up dropper. It was working fine but today the cable just feels loose. Pushing down on the lever it has some good tension feel and then if i push hard enough..the cable just gives...I've made sure the screw that holds the cable down it tight. Once the lever pushes through it's intial give..the cable feels very loose and gives a lot of slack.
> 
> I also lost the O ring that goes on the dropper. Is there someway I can Jerry rig it? Maybe tie a rubber band around it?
> 
> On a side note...the one up lever feels so cheap. One up should be ashamed. They should've just released a nice metal one like the wolftooth.


I had a PIA setting up mine as well. I took it to my buddy at the LBS and he made it look easy.

You could find a replacement o-ring from you local hardware store for about $ .50.


----------



## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

So glad I left it to my LBS to set up my dropper post, and went with the WolfTooth LA. 
On another note, when I'm off the bike and trying to drop the seatpost, the initial arm push requires a bit more effort before it starts to drop. I'm unsure if this is stickiness or my dropper post being too close to the limit of insertion. Any ideas?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

I'm not sure how you guys are finding it difficult to install, it was much easier for me than installing KS droppers I've installed before.


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

GRPABT1 said:


> I'm not sure how you guys are finding it difficult to install, it was much easier for me than installing KS droppers I've installed before.


Not quite sure why folks are having install issues either


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

GRPABT1 said:


> If you look closely the seal actually rides up over where the post starts to taper out at the seat end, so depending on how you're measuring the travel it can be deceiving.


Thank you. I installed the post yesterday and can confirm this is actually true. Not sure why they needed it, but the slightly tapered part slides into the seal. So it must be close to the full advertised travel.


----------



## EatsDirt (Jan 20, 2014)

slimphatty said:


> On a side note...the one up lever feels so cheap. One up should be ashamed. They should've just released a nice metal one like the wolftooth.


Junk.

Anyone reading this should spend the extra ~$10 and get a Wolf Tooth. Great action aside... the breakaway axle design and replacement parts make that plastic POS seem silly.


----------



## Matt Smith (Sep 2, 2015)

EatsDirt said:


> Junk.
> 
> Anyone reading this should spend the extra ~$10 and get a Wolf Tooth. Great action aside... the breakaway axle design and replacement parts make that plastic POS seem silly.


Agreed. I just replaced the OneUp lever with the Wolftooth lever. The Oneup lever is absolute garbage. It flexes so much under pressure that it's hard to activate the post and feels like the lever is going to snap. The Wolftooth lever is much more robust.


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

And this post does not require the Light Action. A regular short one works just fine since the actuation is very light. This is what WT recommends as well.


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

My post has small "vertical" play. It not the soggy feeling (not like a failed IFP), just a millimeter or so up and down if I push or pull it. This is especially noticeable when the post is fully extended. Does anybody else have this?


----------



## slimphatty (Sep 9, 2011)

Alright, drank about 6 beers and spent close to a hour and a half meticulously cleaning and lubing things up. I changed the cable, oiled up the cable before inserting in housing, dropped some oil inside the housing as well. Turns out, you don't really need the O ring if you flip the little thingy that comes out of the bottom of the post. Go figure. Yeah, horrible desciption but I hope I made my point. Made sure the cable had tension but I didn't over tension it (which I'm guilty of doing) and VOILAH! Post works buttery smooth but I'm still so bummed out how cheap the one up lever looks and feels. 

I agree. Everyone out there should just man up, spend the extra 15 or whatever dollars and just get the wolftooth.


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

slimphatty said:


> Turns out, you don't really need the O ring if you flip the little thingy that comes out of the bottom of the post. Go figure.


a proper read of this thread and you would've known that beforehand, go figure 

as for those whinging about the lever, 
do you have small weak hands? I find it fine to use and the action is light, my first defective post had a hard action 
there is no flex in the lever at all unless there is something wrong that you need to press so hard :nono:
hey but each to their own :thumbsup:


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

KVV said:


> My post has small "vertical" play. It not the soggy feeling (not like a failed IFP), just a millimeter or so up and down if I push or pull it. This is especially noticeable when the post is fully extended. Does anybody else have this?


My post has excessive front to back play about 3 mm with post fully extended 150mm. I can now feel this while riding. I also feel the lever action is sluggish, I'm using the WolfTooth remote. Post about 4 months old and comparing to my other Fox dropper 1.2 years old has better lever action and only very small movement front to back. 
Side to side movement both about the same on both. OneUp customer service is excellent, new one on the way!!


----------



## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

cmg said:


> as for those whinging about the lever,
> do you have small weak hands? I find it fine to use and the action is light


As an included free lever, it would be ok At $50 it's hardly on par with Wolftooth and PNCs Loam Lever. I returned mine for the loam and it far better.


----------



## EatsDirt (Jan 20, 2014)

cmg said:


> a proper read of this thread and you would've known that beforehand, go figure
> 
> as for those whinging about the lever,
> do you have small weak hands? I find it fine to use and the action is light, my first defective post had a hard action
> ...


Hey, if you and your big strong hands feel good about purchasing that underbuilt POS, good for you...


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

EatsDirt said:


> Hey, if you and your big strong hands feel good about purchasing that underbuilt POS, good for you...


as l said, each to their own


----------



## NH Mtbiker (Nov 6, 2004)

Trying to decide between this post and the Fox Transfer Perf post. My main concern is which one performs the best overall and especially in the COLD? The post needs to work when temps get below freezing or around 20 degrees. Wondering if this is also a function, or in part, of the lever being used? Any cold temp users out there willing to comment? THnx!


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

NH Mtbiker said:


> Trying to decide between this post and the Fox Transfer Perf post. My main concern is which one performs the best overall and especially in the COLD? The post needs to work when temps get below freezing or around 20 degrees. Wondering if this is also a function, or in part, of the lever being used? Any cold temp users out there willing to comment? THnx!


I'm not a huge fan of Fox Transfer, it was pretty slow compared to what I hoped for and nearly twice the cost of the OneUp. But, now they have the 175mm which is pretty nice.

If I was going to drop cash tho, skip the Fox and go for the BikeYoke...its the best. That being said I have enjoyed my OneUp and WT LA lever and its worked great down to 20 or so degrees so far. I haven't ridden it a ton in that temp however. Can't beat the price tho and warranty. Any issues I've had were my own messing around and fixed easily enough.


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

svinyard said:


> I'm not a huge fan of Fox Transfer, it was pretty slow compared to what I hoped for and nearly twice the cost of the OneUp. But, now they have the 175mm which is pretty nice.
> 
> If I was going to drop cash tho, skip the Fox and go for the BikeYoke...its the best. That being said I have enjoyed my OneUp and WT LA lever and its worked great down to 20 or so degrees so far. I haven't ridden it a ton in that temp however. Can't beat the price tho and warranty. Any issues I've had were my own messing around and fixed easily enough.


I just received my warr. Replacement 150mm OneUp post. The old post had excessive front to back play at full extension that I could feel while riding as a clunk/knock sound. Old post was about 5 months old. Using the WolfTooth remote, old post also had sluggish remote operation.

Now the new post has much better lever action, still using the same WT remote. Now very happy with lever operation.

The play front to back on new post has slightly improved and don't notice it while riding now.

Customer service from OneUp was excellent!!!

I also have the Fox transfer post, 1 year old at 125mm and has far less front to rear play then OneUp, but to be fair it does 25mm less travel.

Fox is kind of slow going up but still works in cold temp with no problems, same with OneUp works great in cold.

I agree the Bike Yoke is the best post on the market, but I have read with heavy people some of the heads are breaking off on Bike Yoke Which scares the hell out of me!!


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

I'm very disappointed with this post (31.6 x 150). Up to the point to call WWC and ask for return. I don't know if I got a lemon or all of them like that. I paid $169 compared to ~$400 for 9.8 and it feels exactly what I paid for.

Here is what I don't like:

- It is extremely sensitive to the clamp force (at full insertion at least). I struggle to find a position where my saddle stays in place but post still works. With a little change of clamp torque, I can make it not move at all or not stop at all. I thought I found the torque when it works. Just returned after 1 hour ride and it slips down a bit. The cable has a lot of free movement. What should I do?
- It has more play at the head than my other posts. All droppers have some play. But for some reason I only notice it riding this one. Maybe my other posts only have play left-right and this one also has front-rear. Not sure.
- You have to be very careful installing the cable. They didn't make the cavity (inside that green thingy) to keep it in place deep enough, and the rubber band is a placebo. Ideally, you need to tighten the cable in the remote while you can see that the other end is in place. This is quite annoying when the cable is not too long and with the brake lever integrated remote.
- It just feels flimsy. Very. This explains to me why it's sensitive to the clamp force.

Compared to 1up, Fox Transfer feels like a tank. It's some 60 grams heavier, too. If you can tolerate the fact that Transfer will not move (at all !!!) if you push at the seat tail, it'll work for you. Just slide forward and push at the seat nose. Then it's smooth as butter. It also feels like will last forever.

When I return 1up, I'll get another 9.8. They are not problem-free, but mine never leaked air and the second one is practically perfect. I want to try Bike Yoke but I store bikes in a vertical position and not sure how it'll work with it.


----------



## El Gringo Guapo (Aug 8, 2007)

I'm pretty close to returning mine, too. I purchased a 30.9 x 150 in December. This thing has just never worked. I've tried all sorts of clamp torques and air pressures, but the seat simply won't return to the upright position - even when the clamp is so loose that the post slides down during the ride. I've had my share of issues with other posts, but usually after a couple years - never out of the box, like One Up. Very disappointing. I may try to warranty it, but I'm not looking forward to having to go through that process; especially after ~30 days of ownership.


----------



## A/C in Az (Jan 14, 2019)

I have 2 bikes with droppers and neither has any side to side play other than the thousandths of an inch clearance necessary to allow smooth movement. If you can see and feel movement, the dropper is no good. Would you say it's normal for your head bearing to have the same side to side play? Of course not. Why tolerate it on a dropper?


useport80 said:


> i've noticed there's some play on the dropper, and it's not the saddle clamps either. i haven't been in any crashes, so no damage to the dropper or bike.





Chicane32 said:


> My 150 Fox transfer had the same side to side movement, just as my 170 Oneup does. Both have about 2-3mm side/side. .





dgw7000 said:


> My post has excessive front to back play about 3 mm with post fully extended 150mm. I can now feel this while riding.


There should not be any side to side play in any dropper post.
Poor QC in regards to proper clearance between the tubes and bushings.

PNW has an adjustable bushing in certain models and they admit and address this play issue by mentioning you can reposition the bushings for less travel and reduce the side to side play.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

No issues still with mine. But no way would I put up with the other issues you guys have described. Just warranty the dang thing. OneUp is pretty good regarding customer support.


----------



## El Gringo Guapo (Aug 8, 2007)

El ****** Guapo said:


> I'm pretty close to returning mine, too. I purchased a 30.9 x 150 in December. This thing has just never worked. I've tried all sorts of clamp torques and air pressures, but the seat simply won't return to the upright position - even when the clamp is so loose that the post slides down during the ride. I've had my share of issues with other posts, but usually after a couple years - never out of the box, like One Up. Very disappointing. I may try to warranty it, but I'm not looking forward to having to go through that process; especially after ~30 days of ownership.


Update: I Finally took it to my LBS, and they said One Up was prepared to stand behind the product - they just wanted the LBS to go through some "steps" before they initiated warranty. Evidently, a number of posts went out "dry" without lube on the inners, which caused my problem.

I will say, props to One Up for trying a pre-warranty solution (I hate the warranty process), but PLEASE get your act together for FAQs, etc. Put that out online. You sent a list of things to troubleshoot to my LBS - do that so we don't have to ruin rides, take unnecessary time, etc. However, I am now happy with the performance of the post. Will post an update.


----------



## Maxis (Jan 29, 2016)

I have two dropper's to mount on my bike (OneUp and Reverb) and after read all comments on this thread and some reviews on Pink Bike and Vital MTB, my question is, change the Reverb for the OneUp still worth it?


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

The OneUp is great and the warranty is 2yrs. It's light and really short too which is a big plus if going 170mm. If the dry issue comes up, I think OneUp is good to stand behind their product. That being said, the new PNW post is supposed to be good and for 300$ you get a sweet Loam Lever too. Other wise the OneUp is 200$+a Wolftooth Light action 60$ I think (or Loam Lever). So 40$ more. The PNW post has a 3yr warranty.


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

I'll update on the status of the warranty request on mine. WWC asked to fill a form and send videos, so I finally did it yesterday. My post started to extend by itself, slowly but visibly, starting from about 1/2 of travel. I guess it make the case more obvious. It also has a lot of rotational play at the saddle nose, I'd say about 3mm left/right.


----------



## Maxis (Jan 29, 2016)

svinyard said:


> The OneUp is great and the warranty is 2yrs. It's light and really short too which is a big plus if going 170mm. If the dry issue comes up, I think OneUp is good to stand behind their product.


Warranty support from One Up is good, i know that. 
But the the reality is, i never had big issues with my Reverb (only the typical sag problem) and few days ago came from the service. I bought the One Up Dropper for the "simple and reliable cable actuated" that's the reason, so no more hydraulic tricky stuff, but if OneUp dropper come with all this issues i'm thinking get back to the reverb.


----------



## R_Pierce (May 31, 2017)

A/C in Az said:


> I have 2 bikes with droppers and neither has any side to side play other than the thousandths of an inch clearance necessary to allow smooth movement. If you can see and feel movement, the dropper is no good. Would you say it's normal for your head bearing to have the same side to side play? Of course not. Why tolerate it on a dropper?
> 
> There should not be any side to side play in any dropper post.
> Poor QC in regards to proper clearance between the tubes and bushings.
> ...


You've never ridden a Fox Transfer then have you? They all have that play in them (all Fox transfers) So I wouldn't say its abnormal to have side to side (rotational) play.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

KVV said:


> I'll update on the status of the warranty request on mine. WWC asked to fill a form and send videos, so I finally did it yesterday. My post started to extend by itself, slowly but visibly, starting from about 1/2 of travel. I guess it make the case more obvious. It also has a lot of rotational play at the saddle nose, I'd say about 3mm left/right.


Have you tried the following to fix it? Too much tension will cause the EXACT issue you have. Did you do your own install? Mine does this exact thing when I over tighten the lever barrel. 2sec fix.

1- Loosen the lever's barrel adjuster A LOT. This is just a test to see if its related to the cable tension being too tight.

2- ensure the housing isn't installed too tight. Feed a bit of extra cable from the handlebars to the post. Or push the post down a bit. Ensure the cable isn't jacked up inside the bike and pinched.

You could even compress it and then remove the post and disconnect it. My guess is that the post with no cable will not start to extend on its owns, thus pointing to improper cable installation.

The good news is that its usually an easy fix.


----------



## montananate (Jan 21, 2009)

My 170mm OneUp dropper just arrived for my SB5.5c build, and I have a Wolftooth LA lever on the way. Might be a silly question, but what is everyone using for cable, housing and stops? I am assuming just run of the mill shifter cable, but figured I would ask if someone found a certain brand works better than others? Cheers!


----------



## burt2020 (Jan 22, 2019)

Anyones 170 dropper only around 165 mm of travel?


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

burt2020 said:


> Anyones 170 dropper only around 165 mm of travel?


My mistake, too. No, it actually has full or close to full travel. Hard to believe, but some of that tappered part slides insides the seal. Apparently this stretches the seal and why they made it this way is beyond my understanding.


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

svinyard said:


> Have you tried the following to fix it? Too much tension will cause the EXACT issue you have. Did you do your own install? Mine does this exact thing when I over tighten the lever barrel. 2sec fix.
> 
> 1- Loosen the lever's barrel adjuster A LOT. This is just a test to see if its related to the cable tension being too tight.
> 
> ...


1. Mine is already loosened a lot. Like there is some 4-5mm free play in the remote. If I tighten it to little or no play, the dropper stops fixing in any position at all.

2. I don't understand this. Besides, I re-did the inner cable once after couple of rides trying to figure out what I did wrong at first.

3. "My guess is that the post with no cable will not start to extend on its owns". (edited, sorry, I did not read the question correctly). I'll try this soon.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

KVV said:


> 1. Mine is already loosened a lot. Like there is some 4-5mm free play in the remote. If I tighten it to little or no play, the dropper stops fixing in any position at all.
> 
> 2. I don't understand this. Besides, I re-did the inner cable once after couple of rides trying to figure out what I did wrong at first.
> 
> 3. "My guess is that the post with no cable will not start to extend on its owns". (edited, sorry, I did not read the question correctly). I'll try this soon.


Gotcha, so judging from your response to #1, it sounds like its something up with your cable install. When you tighten the remote even a little bit, then the post is completely free to move up or down (correct me if I'm wrong). So yeah, remove the post (compressed) and see if it extends when the cable is un-attached. I'm 99% sure its your cable install, but it's obviously hard to tell which part. My guess is to try reinstalling the cable and ensuring the housing isn't screwy. You want to have abit of tension on the housing when sliding it in, but not too much.

Regardless, once you remove the post and test it without a cable, you'll know if its your install or the post. Get some pics of the actuator while its out just incase its messed up. You can post them here.


----------



## jabber127 (Jan 26, 2016)

ashwinearl said:


> EDIT: I experienced an issue with how far the post was in the bike. I could feel it bottom out in the seat tube where my linkage is, but was hoping the actuator wasn't affected and went through. The post kept sinking in travel and not staying down. Raising it up a few mm stopped that. So just because the main post part goes in all the way, keep in mind there still might be some pressure on the actuator depending on your frame.


This exact thing happened to me when I was trying to figure out the max insertion for my 170 post. Shimmed it down a bit more to relieve the pressure on the actuator and all is well.


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

I appreciate all the responses. Folks are totally right, this post requires housing to be able to move freely to work. The inner cable is stationary at the post attachment, and the housing needs to be able to move towards the post when the remote lever is pressed. This design seems to be so absurd to me so I double-checked and still can't believe it.
In my case, the post is inserted all the way and, despite 460mm seat tube, there is little space between the cable attachment at the post end and the hole where cable enters the seat tube. Making it worse, the hole is pretty right and has some short tube guide inside with somewhat sharp edges. And the cable bend radius is tight, too. And then it enters the down tube with a similarly tight cable hole. So when I install the post and need to push it down into the seat tube, I have to pull the housing out at the bottom or it won't move. Now the housing needs to move freely for some 7mm or more for post to work. It actually drags the housing through holes and the housing does not return back all the way. I was able to pull it down by hand and it eliminated the play in the remote completely. I assume the post will stop extending by itself. But as soon as I operated remote once, it started again.

In addition, I measured the rotational play at the seat nose with a ruler. My One Up has 2.5mm of play (7 hrs of ride), 9point8 has 1-1.5mm (2 years old, lot of riding), KS Lev has ~2mm of play (like 5 years old).

I'm returning the seatpost and this will likely be my last comment on this thread. I think this product will work for many. Many frames, especially the ones without rubber gaskets, allow seatpost housing to move freely to a certain degree. Plus this post is adjustable, reasonably light, has the shortest min stack height out of all posts on the market (!!!), and cheap.

Here is what I don't like:

Serious:
- Simply can't work in my frame and likely some others. And for many others, when the housing is not completely free moving, it'll end up with the vague feel in the remote lever.

Annoying:
- Super sensitive to the clamp torque.
- Too much rotational play even in the new post.
- The inner cable attachment at the post is flaky, needs careful procedure to install.

Personal:
- The blue paint on the saddle bolts is IMO unnecessary. I've never seen them loosening by itself. Bolts are long and I have to use tools to screw them all the way.
- 250 - 300 psi, really? Other posts are as low as 20 - 40 psi. Such a high pressure is prone to leaks in the long run.


----------



## gramboh (Nov 7, 2018)

I've read a bunch of this thread but am hoping someone can confirm if my plan will work: I want to achieve a greater drop height by switching from a Race Face Turbine (2017, non-R) to a OneUp dropper. Bike is a 2017 Jeffsy 27 CF large frame.

- Currently have the 125mm Turbine exposed about 5mm out of my seat post.

- My Turbine has a minimum exposed length of 67mm (RF spec) and I see the OneUp is 37mm (pics/measurements confirmed earlier in this thread).

- That delta of 30mm + the 5mm exposed lower on my Turbine gets me roughly 35mm extra usable drop so 160mm give or take with the shim.

- My bike came with a 150mm drop/440mm total length Turbine so I am confident I can slam the 170m/450mm OneUp as the Jeffy's relatively straight seat tube but I will try to confirm this.

- I will reuse my Turbine cable actuated lever as it has been fine for me.

Anyone see issues?

*EDIT - In case anyone else ends up asking the above questions I found the answers:

1) Turbine (non-R) style remote will not reliably work with the OneUp post because of how it clamps the cable (it will constantly require fiddling to keep it in correct tension).

2) Max reamed depth of Jeffsy 2017 CF frame is 225mm, even if the OneUp 170 post would fit, the actuator at the bottom will be getting close to butting up against the angle change in the seat tube and will likely cause problems.

Ended up ordering the 150mm drop post and the OneUp remote... the PNW/WolfTooth are more expensive here, if I have issues with the OneUp I can visit them in person for fast warranty.


----------



## Heidenh (Feb 7, 2019)

Edited to the end


----------



## Heidenh (Feb 7, 2019)

Got one of these last year. I admit I had install issues, but that's cause I lowered the dropper all the way down the seat tube towards a kink in the frame. The kink engaged the actuation and wouldn't allow the dropper to stay in place. Silly me. I raised it about 2cm, solved the problem. I was boggled though.

Functioned flawlessly. I've enjoyed the comfort of it since.


__
http://instagr.am/p/BnKmFyyAvfL/


----------



## f0nz0 (Sep 21, 2009)

so what sort of grease or lube are people using here, seems my post sort of "dries" out and does not extend fully


----------



## Heidenh (Feb 7, 2019)

f0nz0 said:


> so what sort of grease or lube are people using here, seems my post sort of "dries" out and does not extend fully


I just gave it more PSI, and it solved that issue. I don't recall what psi I set it, but as the winter has come it seems to have lowered.. Need to fill it up again.


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Heidenh said:


> I just gave it more PSI, and it solved that issue. I don't recall what psi I set it, but as the winter has come it seems to have lowered.. Need to fill it up again.


250-300 psi is the spec, I go 300.


----------



## djindian (Mar 20, 2017)

I was having the issue when it wouldn't fully extend as well. Unscrew the collar and slide it up off the outer tube and pull out the white bushing and pull it off. Rescrew back the collar without that white insert and it should full extend with a very positive clunk. If it does, just take some very high grit sandpaper and carefully wet sand the inner portion that contacts the inner post, clean well and put a thin spread of lightweight lube on it. Ot should now work perfect!


----------



## TXPABIKER (Jan 31, 2006)

I have a OneUp 150 dropper on my Stache 15.5" frame. I've got the 50mm shim inserted and I need just another 5-10mm taken off the extension. The issue is that the seat tube on the frame curves b/c of the short chainstays. 

Anyone aware of how to reduce the extension by another 5-10mm? At full extension, I'm beginning to get over extension. I can micro adjust, but I'd rather the try to get the dropper to work as intended.

Thanks.


----------



## Heidenh (Feb 7, 2019)

dgw7000 said:


> 250-300 psi is the spec, I go 300.


So much thanks! Full power 300psi to the Ball Crasher tonight!


----------



## markross (Feb 25, 2019)

rscecil007 said:


> From what I understood (had a bad phone connection early in the call), he said the Oneup dropper has a pretty short throw on it to begin with, so the LA version can almost be too light, and the normal gives a better feel. I actually have both, and have mine set up with the LA now, but will probably try the other one. I will say it doesn't take much movement of the LA lever to get the post to activate.


Did you ever try the standard Wolf Tooth remote? Trying to decide whether to get the standard or LA version and would be useful to get some feedback from someone who has tried both.


----------



## Chicane32 (Jul 12, 2015)

markross said:


> Did you ever try the standard Wolf Tooth remote? Trying to decide whether to get the standard or LA version and would be useful to get some feedback from someone who has tried both.


Get the LA and be done. Great feel and not to light.


----------



## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Sorry I didn't get a chance. Shoulder surgery has kept me off the bike.


----------



## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

markross said:


> Did you ever try the standard Wolf Tooth remote? Trying to decide whether to get the standard or LA version and would be useful to get some feedback from someone who has tried both.


I have a PNW Loam lever on my wife's bike with the one up. Impressive lever. Great feel and adjustability.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Lol...so almost after a year of me making this thread...I ordered one...along with a Wolftooth I-spec lever. Neither of them come with cable.


----------



## Heidenh (Feb 7, 2019)

Nailed it.


----------



## ocnLogan (Aug 15, 2018)

Does anyone here have their OneUp dropper in a '18/'19 Kona Process 153 AL?

I purchased my Kona from Jenson, and the factory dropper seems to have issues (losing pressure pretty quickly, have had to pump it up multiple times, etc). Anyway, I've reached out to Jenson, and they're having their warranty department get back to me on a replacement.

Based on the Kona Process thread in the Kona subforum, this has happened before, and Jenson is sending the other owner a OneUp dropper as their replacement (they haven't received it yet). Knowing that I may get one of the same droppers, I started looking into the OneUp.

Is the cable housing really what is actuating the dropper? My bike has external cable routing, but with clamps (where the bottle cage goes) keeping the cables organized. Based on that, I'm not certain that the design would allow for cable housing movement, and has me worried.

Should I be asking for a different dropper if they have anything else available, or is it no big deal?

Thanks .


----------



## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

ocnLogan said:


> Does anyone here have their OneUp dropper in a '18/'19 Kona Process 153 AL?
> 
> I purchased my Kona from Jenson, and the factory dropper seems to have issues (losing pressure pretty quickly, have had to pump it up multiple times, etc). Anyway, I've reached out to Jenson, and they're having their warranty department get back to me on a replacement.
> 
> ...


The housing only needs 10-15mm or so of free play. The clamp may hold the housing in place but the last few inches in the seat tube just need to be able to move the 10-15mm to actuate the dropper.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Done two rides with the OU dropper. So far...I've been super happy with it. I installed it the Wolftooth remote. Install for both was super easy. Aired the dropper to about 270.


----------



## Lithified (Apr 14, 2007)

Stopbreakindown said:


> Not yet, I submitted a query to ONEUp
> I'll post my findings when I hear back


Ever get word back? Did you get a Valais?


----------



## titus (Feb 18, 2008)

I'm using a OneUp Components dropper with a WT LA remote. I used my OUC for the first time tonight. It was about 40 degrees outside. The behavior seemed pretty inconsistent. It seemed like the last 1/2 inch didn't fully extend normally. I had to do a follow up trick to get the last half inch to extend. The dropper didn't drop consistently either. It dropped fully but I encountered some intermittent friction while dropping which made me look like I was losing balance on my bike whereas my Reverb always dropped gangsta smooth. I'm not sure how much of this behavior was due to cooler weather but my primary driver for getting a new dropper was to have a dropper that performs well in cooler weather.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Have you checked the air pressure? 

Mine was pretty low when I checked. What made me check is that it was a bit slow to go up. I aired it up to ~270. It extends pretty quick now.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

titus said:


> I'm using a OneUp Components dropper with a WT LA remote. I used my OUC for the first time tonight. It was about 40 degrees outside. The behavior seemed pretty inconsistent. It seemed like the last 1/2 inch didn't fully extend normally. I had to do a follow up trick to get the last half inch to extend. The dropper didn't drop consistently either. It dropped fully but I encountered some intermittent friction while dropping which made me look like I was losing balance on my bike whereas my Reverb always dropped gangsta smooth. I'm not sure how much of this behavior was due to cooler weather but my primary driver for getting a new dropper was to have a dropper that performs well in cooler weather.


It's an easy fix with no tools required. Scroll back through this thread and you'll see a rough walk through of the process that I lined out. 95% sure if you do that it'll fix it. I haven't had issues with mine in 20d weather tho I did have the same issue you described one time.


----------



## ashwinearl (Jan 2, 2004)

djindian said:


> ... slide it up off the outer tube and pull out the white bushing and pull it off. Rescrew back the collar without that white insert ...


Has anyone else done this: completely removing the white bushing that has the split in it?


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Sooo...I've got a number of rides on the OU post...and so far I really like it.

Just one thing though...I think the post may be developed some play. More than what I can remember from when I first got it...and way more than my B1 Reverb.

Is this normal? I got the post through Fanatik.


----------



## pctloper (Jan 3, 2016)

Odd----I have one of the very first posts delivered and it has not developed play after all this time


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

ashwinearl said:


> Has anyone else done this: completely removing the white bushing that has the split in it?


Yeah I have. Its no big deal, just pops off. I didn't sand it down, but I did clean it and grease it with slick honey. It takes all of 2 minutes to do and no tools.


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

RS VR6 said:


> Sooo...I've got a number of rides on the OU post...and so far I really like it.
> 
> Just one thing though...I think the post may be developed some play. More than what I can remember from when I first got it...and way more than my B1 Reverb.
> 
> Is this normal? I got the post through Fanatik.


I just received a brand new one as a warranty replacement and it has the same lateral play as your vid... the one going back was getting stuck but it had absolutely no play. OneUp has indicated it's normal... I'll see if it gets worse.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

northvanguy said:


> I just received a brand new one as a warranty replacement and it has the same lateral play as your vid... the one going back was getting stuck but it had absolutely no play. OneUp has indicated it's normal... I'll see if it gets worse.


Dumb question I know, but my seat had play like that. It was annoying. Then I figured out that I had my seat slide forward or back to far and the railing couldn't cinch down all the way. I adjust the seat, tightened it all down to 8nm and boom...solid as a rock now.


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

Always a good chance it's me when it comes to bike maintenance!!! 

That said... I'm deadset in the middle of rails and have double checked them.

There's a small OneUp logo on the top of seatpost stanchion and you can actually see it slightly move side to side.

Strangest part is there's absolutely zero lateral play when fully extended... only when not fully extended. Opposite to what you'd expect.


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

New models. Including 210mm!
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/oneup-announces-droppers-in-every-length-from-100mm-to-210mm.html


----------



## motard5 (Apr 9, 2007)

Does anyone have a customer service number for Oneup? 
Nothing listed anywhere...very strange you can't speak with an actual person.


----------



## Chicane32 (Jul 12, 2015)

motard5 said:


> Does anyone have a customer service number for Oneup?
> Nothing listed anywhere...very strange you can't speak with an actual person.


Nope. Email them and they usually/should respond by the next week day.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Yeah I traded two emails with them today despite it being SeaOtter. They are pretty good about helping out.


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

Can anybody ask them if the updated post is still actuated by moving the cable housing, please?


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

KVV said:


> Can anybody ask them if the updated post is still actuated by moving the cable housing, please?


cant you?


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

KVV said:


> Can anybody ask them if the updated post is still actuated by moving the cable housing, please?


I bet it will, i will ask them today.


----------



## Gendy (Feb 24, 2018)

I just ordered the dropper, and now i'm trying to decide on the lever. Seeing that a few people had broke their oneups, i'm leaning towards the wolftooth.

Is there any certain cable i will need to order? This is my first time installing a part like this. Thank you!


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

emailed oneup and they said the actuator is the same mechanism, just a lil shorter. housing still needs to move ~4mm


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Gendy said:


> I just ordered the dropper, and now i'm trying to decide on the lever. Seeing that a few people had broke their oneups, i'm leaning towards the wolftooth.
> 
> Is there any certain cable i will need to order? This is my first time installing a part like this. Thank you!


Just get the Wolftooth Light Action. It comes with cable and housing IIRC.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

useport80 said:


> emailed oneup and they said the actuator is the same mechanism, just a lil shorter. housing still needs to move ~4mm


This. Talked with them and they are developing an actuator that moves the cable instead but it's not ready


----------



## Gendy (Feb 24, 2018)

crap. just got the 170 in the mail yesterday. now i see they are dropping the 210


----------



## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

Remote is now aluminum. I retuned mine and they seemed to acknowledge it was a bad choice to go with “carbon”.


----------



## titus (Feb 18, 2008)

I aired up my ouc dropper to 300 psi and now it lowers and extends smoothly. One problem though is that it gets a bit stuck in the fully extended position. Meaning that I need to press the remote and then give the saddle a "butt bump" in order for it to go down. This isn't a huge deal but the extra required step creates a delay that forces me to hop off of my bike at least one or twice per ride b/c I'm not able to lower my seatpost quickly enough. Has anyone else here had this issue with the OUC dropper and found a way to fix it? I'm thinking that I might swap out my 170mm dropper for a 210mm dropper and then insert the shim to prevent full extension


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

titus said:


> I aired up my ouc dropper to 300 psi and now it lowers and extends smoothly. One problem though is that it gets a bit stuck in the fully extended position. Meaning that I need to press the remote and then give the saddle a "butt bump" in order for it to go down. This isn't a huge deal but the extra required step creates a delay that forces me to hop off of my bike at least one or twice per ride b/c I'm not able to lower my seatpost quickly enough. Has anyone else here had this issue with the OUC dropper and found a way to fix it? I'm thinking that I might swap out my 170mm dropper for a 210mm dropper and then insert the shim to prevent full extension


One of mine did that a little, but you can fix it. Remove/unthread the collar, slide the bushing up a little, apply a thin coat of Slick Honey, cycle it a couple times and reassemble.

Takes 90 seconds.


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

As **Onespeed** mentioned, that's most probably stiction.
Also, try to press the seatpost in the same direction as the seat tube and not vertically. Frames with slack seat tubes tends to exacerbate the problem you have.


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

titus said:


> I aired up my ouc dropper to 300 psi and now it lowers and extends smoothly. One problem though is that it gets a bit stuck in the fully extended position. Meaning that I need to press the remote and then give the saddle a "butt bump" in order for it to go down. This isn't a huge deal but the extra required step creates a delay that forces me to hop off of my bike at least one or twice per ride b/c I'm not able to lower my seatpost quickly enough. Has anyone else here had this issue with the OUC dropper and found a way to fix it? I'm thinking that I might swap out my 170mm dropper for a 210mm dropper and then insert the shim to prevent full extension


I had exact same problem and sent back for warranty... moved perfectly within its travel but from the very top took a lot of weight to get it started. New Post seems better from a movement perspective but has a tiny amount of lateral play. Feels as if the bushing was too tight on first runs and not quite enough now.

See how you go...maybe they'll warranty you a 210!


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

*OneSpeed* said:


> One of mine did that a little, but you can fix it. Remove/unthread the collar, slide the bushing up a little, apply a thin coat of Slick Honey, cycle it a couple times and reassemble.
> 
> Takes 90 seconds.


That didn't fix the problem


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

Aglo said:


> As **Onespeed** mentioned, that's most probably stiction.
> Also, try to press the seatpost in the same direction as the seat tube and not vertically. Frames with slack seat tubes tends to exacerbate the problem you have.


This did help... but I never had any problems with other dropper posts in the same frame as I did with OneUp.


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Two other thoughts. Make sure the seatpost collar is not too tight, obviously. 

I've also noticed that the Oneup dropper doesn't like it when you try to push it down with the nose of the saddle, unlike many other droppers that benefit from pressure on the front of the saddle. 

Pushing down from the middle/back of the saddle and pressing in the direction of the seattube helps a lot.


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Two other thoughts. Make sure the seatpost collar is not too tight, obviously.
> 
> I've also noticed that the Oneup dropper doesn't like it when you try to push it down with the nose of the saddle, unlike many other droppers that benefit from pressure on the front of the saddle.
> 
> Pushing down from the middle/back of the saddle and pressing in the direction of the seattube helps a lot.


Agree with all this....

That said... the OneUp in my opinion because of the 'best' position being middle and back of seat isn't ideal for riding...I find that the best position to drop from top position isn't my natural position on saddle which is normally slightly forward....and as you mentioned other posts don't seem to have this nuance.


----------



## Lithified (Apr 14, 2007)

f0nz0 said:


> so what sort of grease or lube are people using here, seems my post sort of "dries" out and does not extend fully


I have been running my post in Pisgah for a full year with absolutely zero issues. A ride yesterday I started to notice this "last half inch" problem. After reading through this thread, all I did is unscrew top collar, pull bushing, clean with dry rag, then applied some Slick Honey and put it back together. 5 minutes and now I get a "thunk" at top out...sweeeeeet. :cornut:

To the folks that are just ramping up your air pressure...I'd encourage you to put some grease on here and pull that bushing. Upping air pressure may get the post to extend, but you're effectively pushing past the friction, which can't be good for the post or bushing.

I really think OneUp has nailed it on this post. So happy with it. Nothing lasts a year in Pisgah with so little maintenance....nothing. Haha.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Lithified said:


> To the folks that are just ramping up your air pressure...I'd encourage you to put some grease on here and pull that bushing. Upping air pressure may get the post to extend, but you're effectively pushing past the friction, which can't be good for the post or bushing.


I did this to my month old post. It was pretty dry from the factory. This is something I would do on a new post...especially if you ride in a wet area.


----------



## mnpikey (Sep 18, 2017)

Just ordered a Oneup for my wife's new Orbea. Been pedaling and wrenching on bikes for over 20 years but I'm having a hard time finding what TYPE of cable is needed to actuate this post.

It's not even listed in the docs from Oneup unless I'm missing it?

Just guessing that a MTB shifter cable is the right one?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050O89NQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## ocnLogan (Aug 15, 2018)

mnpikey said:


> Just ordered a Oneup for my wife's new Orbea. Been pedaling and wrenching on bikes for over 20 years but I'm having a hard time finding what TYPE of cable is needed to actuate this post.
> 
> It's not even listed in the docs from Oneup unless I'm missing it?
> 
> ...


I had the exact same problem. I couldn't tell if it was mechanical brake cable, or shifter cable. I had to do a bit of research to make sure I had the right kind on hand.

Its shifter cable .


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

disregard 

Thanks 
J-


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

well was having issues with my less than a year old one up post (not returning fully) followed everything that I have read here (clean and grease the bushing, leave bike upside down over night, air pressure and clamp tension) and still having issues. I have cleaned regressed and left upside down twice in 5 rides. Always works great the first ride after but then starts to have issues again.

I am waiting on an email back from One Up to see what I need to do ( I bought the post from jenson's) and only have about 20-25 rides total on it. 

Any other shade tree mechanic remedies that people have come up with that will fix this long term or do I just have a lemon? 

One Up if you read this check your email, lol 
J-


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Doesn't fully extend the first time you push the lever, but if you push the lever again it will fully extend, or, even if you push the lever a second time it will not fully extend?


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

Been having issues posting replies in the forums (anyone else) the past couple days.

@aglo about 75% of the time it stops about 2 inches of full extension and I have to hold the lever AND pull up on the seat to get it to extend the rest of the way. 

If I hit the lever and released it and then hit it again it still does not extend the full amount on its own.

J-


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

jjc155 said:


> Been having issues posting replies in the forums (anyone else) the past couple days.
> 
> @aglo about 75% of the time it stops about 2 inches of full extension and I have to hold the lever AND pull up on the seat to get it to extend the rest of the way.
> 
> ...


3 things. Make sure the seatpost collar is not too tight. also check that the air pressure is at 250psi (or whatever they recommend).

But most likely you just need to grease it up a bit with Slick Honey, or some other light suspension specific grease. Remove the threaded collar and grease the post lightly. Actuate a couple times, then reassemble. It will work like new.


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

*OneSpeed* said:


> 3 things. Make sure the seatpost collar is not too tight. also check that the air pressure is at 250psi (or whatever they recommend).
> 
> But most likely you just need to grease it up a bit with Slick Honey, or some other light suspension specific grease. Remove the threaded collar and grease the post lightly. Actuate a couple times, then reassemble. It will work like new.


Done each of those prior to posting here. Actually cleaned and regreased three times at this point.

One thing I noticed today was that despite pumping it up to 300psi last week it was down to 220 when I checked it today. Aired back up to 300 but it still hangs up. May have an air leak somewhere.

J-


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

jjc155 said:


> Done each of those prior to posting here. Actually cleaned and regreased three times at this point.
> 
> One thing I noticed today was that despite pumping it up to 300psi last week it was down to 220 when I checked it today. Aired back up to 300 but it still hangs up. May have an air leak somewhere.
> 
> J-


They did an update to the forum database, and the threads were locked on read only for some time.
The losing of pressure is probably all due to you reconnecting the shock pump, but can't be sure.
Did you try to lower the torque on the seat clamp?


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

It does feel like I'm losing a ton of pressure each time I take off my shock pump. I air mine up to 270 and disconnect. Different shock pumps will also read different.

I have my seat clamp torqued to 4nm. Different seat clamps seem to have different clamping forces at the same torque settings. I use the Woodman "Deathgrip" at 4nm on both my dropper'd bikes.


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

Aglo said:


> They did an update to the forum database, and the threads were locked on read only for some time.
> The losing of pressure is probably all due to you reconnecting the shock pump, but can't be sure.
> Did you try to lower the torque on the seat clamp?


Yep lowered the clamp tension so low that its not effective at holding the post and still does it.

I thought about the pump issue so did an experiment and inflated to 300, took pump off and then re-attached and it was only down about 10 psi not the 80 that i saw vs a week ago. I use a Fox digital pump so i'm not having to approximate what the tick marks of a dial gauge would have.

I may tear the post apart per one up's info on their page when winter comes and just deal with the issue till then or may just see if Jensons will send me a new one under warranty.

Thanks
J-


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

That's what I was going to say, if the obvious things don't solve it then I'd contact either the place you bought it or ONeup and see what the options are. 

How old is it?


----------



## jjc155 (Aug 9, 2011)

Aglo said:


> They did an update to the forum database, and the threads were locked on read only for some time.
> The losing of pressure is probably all due to you reconnecting the shock pump, but can't be sure.
> Did you try to lower the torque on the seat clamp?





*OneSpeed* said:


> That's what I was going to say, if the obvious things don't solve it then I'd contact either the place you bought it or ONeup and see what the options are.
> 
> How old is it?


Less than a year. Got it 8/18.

J-


----------



## titus (Feb 18, 2008)

Don't waste your time on OUC droppers unless you're on a strict budget. Good bang for the buck but if you're OCD then Bike Yoke Revive is what you want. Nothing but love for OUC pedals tho


----------



## ashwinearl (Jan 2, 2004)

jjc155 said:


> Been having issues posting replies in the forums (anyone else) the past couple days.
> 
> @aglo about 75% of the time it stops about 2 inches of full extension and I have to hold the lever AND pull up on the seat to get it to extend the rest of the way.
> 
> ...


I am experiencing exactly this behavior. I have already opened it from the top and used some slickoleum. It didn't last long before this stiction behavior is back.

Have you found a fix yet?


----------



## ashwinearl (Jan 2, 2004)

svinyard said:


> Yeah I have. Its no big deal, just pops off. I didn't sand it down, but I did clean it and grease it with slick honey. It takes all of 2 minutes to do and no tools.


Does anyone know if you can ride longterm without that white split ring bushing installed. As someone earlier stated, when it is completely removed, the post returns very strongly with no stiction.

I do follow the instructions here about cleaning/greasing with light (slickoleum) under and around that white split ring bushing and the seals, but the stiction comes back and the last 2 inches, the post sticks. The lever has to be pressed again usually.


----------



## croakies (Mar 4, 2011)

ashwinearl said:


> Does anyone know if you can ride longterm without that white split ring bushing installed. As someone earlier stated, when it is completely removed, the post returns very strongly with no stiction.
> 
> I do follow the instructions here about cleaning/greasing with light (slickoleum) under and around that white split ring bushing and the seals, but the stiction comes back and the last 2 inches, the post sticks. The lever has to be pressed again usually.


Would strongly not recommend this. Bushing is what supports the whole structure.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

^that.
If removing the bushing makes the seatpost returns normally, than I suspect that with enough ride and use it will brake in eventually.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Can't picture the dropper lasting too long without the bushing.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

anyone have a comparison between the wolftooth LA lever versus the PNW dropper remote?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

useport80 said:


> anyone have a comparison between the wolftooth LA lever versus the PNW dropper remote?


I'd recommend our V2 dropper lever. The updated remote has the same awesome lever position but now has a more durable aluminum body.

Every other lever on the market requires you to unwrap your thumb from the bar to reach the paddle.

It is available in 22.2, I-Spec EV, I-Spec II and MMX clamp options, for perfect integration with your brake lever at no extra cost. It is also just $49...

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/collections/dropper-posts/products/dropper-post-remote


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

OneUp said:


> I'd recommend our V2 dropper lever. The updated remote has the same awesome lever position but now has a more durable aluminum body.
> 
> Every other lever on the market requires you to unwrap your thumb from the bar to reach the paddle.
> 
> ...


how's the lever throw or range of motion of the v2 lever? I currently have the wolf tooth LA remote with the oneup v1 dropper.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

useport80 said:


> how's the lever throw or range of motion of the v2 lever? I currently have the wolf tooth LA remote with the oneup v1 dropper.


The lever throw is short (~10mm) but the possible range of motion is long enough to be compatible with any cable actuated post on the market.

The biggest advantages are the paddle location and massive left-right adjustment range.

Jon


----------



## mnpikey (Sep 18, 2017)

So much for being able to service this post yourself. Not a single replacement parts is available on OneUps website....


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

mnpikey said:


> So much for being able to service this post yourself. Not a single replacement parts is available on OneUps website....


Sorry about that. Just got restocked and are sending parts to the warehouse as we speak.

Jon


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

OneUp said:


> Sorry about that. Just got restocked and are sending parts to the warehouse as we speak.
> 
> Jon


Hey OneUp

My post stops about 1cm from top. It seems I have to grease below the white plastic and post every 3-4 rides otherwise the problem just starts again. Pretty annoying as that seems to be excessive. Any suggestions?

Air pressure is at the higher end of recommendation.

Cheers


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

northvanguy said:


> Hey OneUp
> 
> My post stops about 1cm from top. It seems I have to grease below the white plastic and post every 3-4 rides otherwise the problem just starts again. Pretty annoying as that seems to be excessive. Any suggestions?
> 
> ...


Sorry to hear that. We just revised the upper bushing to an IGUS version to improve this. The issue relates to the lower face of the bushing deforming over time. Hit us up at [email protected] for V1 rebuild kit. That kit will contain the replacement upper bushing.

They will be available in the US in about 7-10 days.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

OneUp said:


> Sorry to hear that. We just revised the upper bushing to an IGUS version to improve this. The issue relates to the lower face of the bushing deforming over time. Hit us up at [email protected] for V1 rebuild kit. That kit will contain the replacement upper bushing.
> 
> They will be available in the US in about 7-10 days.
> 
> Jon @ OneUp


Cool. Will do. I'm in Australia but bought from UK so I'll wait a week or two and drop a note.

This post is only 15 rides old too so it's not a wear or deforming issue.

Will the update fix that?

Cheers.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

northvanguy said:


> Cool. Will do. I'm in Australia but bought from UK so I'll wait a week or two and drop a note.
> 
> This post is only 15 rides old too so it's not a wear or deforming issue.
> 
> ...


Hmm that's weird. E-mail us and we'll help troubleshoot. Rest assured we'll make it right whatever the issue is.

Jon


----------



## saltnpepper11 (Nov 12, 2015)

I have had mine since last September with no issues... recently it develop the SAG and felt very rough even though I kept the inner bushing clean and lubricated. Also the Schrader valve to keep the post inflated came loose and I had no way to tighten it without the Schrader valve spinning.

My initial email with customer service to work through some of the issues went very well. Until we got to the point that they were probably going to have to warranty the post and then it's been hard to get a reply from anybody on the customer service team.

That is my only complaint to date with one of they've been very helpful for every other issue I've ever had. Just an odd situation to me saying yes I usually get a very fast reply with every issue and this is seem to be one email a day if I'm lucky very unusual for this great company. Especially after I got a packing slip to mail mine in and they said they would immediately send me a tracking number and still have not heard back. 

I pushed a lot of people to buy these post they work just as well as their counterparts that cost double and highly recommend this post everybody.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

OneUp said:


> Sorry to hear that. We just revised the upper bushing to an IGUS version to improve this. The issue relates to the lower face of the bushing deforming over time. Hit us up at [email protected] for V1 rebuild kit. That kit will contain the replacement upper bushing.
> 
> They will be available in the US in about 7-10 days.
> 
> Jon @ OneUp


Hi Jon, your support has been nothing but great so far. Corey is super helpful.

So I ended up with the same issue where the post gets stuck in the last inch or so. I tried a bushing kit that Corey sent me but still had the same issue. Would that have had the new bushing design? How can I tell?

Corey ended up sending me a new v1 170mm replacement post that I'm about to install...but I'm worried that it's just going to be the same issue eventually and then my 2yr warranty will be up next year.


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

This is also a good sign

Although it should be standard and not an additional cost...


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

northvanguy said:


> This is also a good sign
> 
> Although it should be standard and not an additional cost...


It is free as an add-on for Santa Cruz owners. It will be standard in the fall.


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

OneUp said:


> It is free as an add-on for Santa Cruz owners. It will be standard in the fall.
> 
> View attachment 1259847


Excellent. Will make many a doubters happy.


----------



## Herch (Jun 8, 2019)

Post and lever have been nothing but issues. Multiple attempts to lube, clean, service and adjust the psi same issues. 


Worked fine for a short period then multiple issues. Won’t return all the way up. Tons of stiction. Have done all the recommended fixes and it helps for a couples cycles of going up and down then same issue. Also have to have my seat collar way under manufactured recommend spec to make it kinda work. After contacting one up they are offer a bushing that is a “couple weeks out”. Thanks, I didn’t what to actually ride me bike for the next couple weeks or anything. 

What I really loved was the email today from One up how the v2 dropper is shipping and literally states in the email how it is better than the v1 post. I’m glad you guys concerned about gaining new customers with this awesome new post and telling the old paying customers pretty much to get lost for a “couple weeks” for a maybe fix. Go buy a bike yoke and wolftooth lever, you get what you pay for. Unfortunately I guess I payed for a $200 paper weight.


----------



## javisst44 (Jun 27, 2016)

OneUp said:


> Sorry to hear that. We just revised the upper bushing to an IGUS version to improve this. The issue relates to the lower face of the bushing deforming over time. Hit us up at [email protected] for V1 rebuild kit. That kit will contain the replacement upper bushing.
> 
> They will be available in the US in about 7-10 days.
> 
> Jon @ OneUp


The v1 you sell at your webstore, are they upgraded?
When will the 150 v2 dropper be available?


----------



## thisisbenji (Nov 13, 2010)

javisst44 said:


> The v1 you sell at your webstore, are they upgraded?
> When will the 150 v2 dropper be available?


I'm wondering this as well.

I need the 150mm v2, I got an email saying they were in stock, but when I check the website it still says sold out. I really need to get a new dropper before a trip I have planned in July, I'm about to just spring for a Fox Transfer if I have to wait much longer without any idea on availability.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

thisisbenji said:


> I'm wondering this as well.
> 
> I need the 150mm v2, I got an email saying they were in stock, but when I check the website it still says sold out. I really need to get a new dropper before a trip I have planned in July, I'm about to just spring for a Fox Transfer if I have to wait much longer without any idea on availability.


150s should be up tomorrow afternoon. The first bunch went damn quick. Sorry for the delay.


----------



## Herch (Jun 8, 2019)

Herch said:


> Post and lever have been nothing but issues. Multiple attempts to lube, clean, service and adjust the psi same issues.
> 
> Worked fine for a short period then multiple issues. Won't return all the way up. Tons of stiction. Have done all the recommended fixes and it helps for a couples cycles of going up and down then same issue. Also have to have my seat collar way under manufactured recommend spec to make it kinda work. After contacting one up they are offer a bushing that is a "couple weeks out". Thanks, I didn't what to actually ride me bike for the next couple weeks or anything.
> 
> What I really loved was the email today from One up how the v2 dropper is shipping and literally states in the email how it is better than the v1 post. I'm glad you guys concerned about gaining new customers with this awesome new post and telling the old paying customers pretty much to get lost for a "couple weeks" for a maybe fix. Go buy a bike yoke and wolftooth lever, you get what you pay for. Unfortunately I guess I payed for a $200 paper weight.


UPDATE. Oneup components contacted me again and actually directed me to the online retailer where I bought the post. I emailed back with my obvious frustration of now feeling like I'm getting the runaround and just wanting the post to be fixed or replaced. They have now told me that they were going to be sending out a replacement dropper post themselves. If all goes well it appears they're trying to make it right. Thanks oneup components.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

^^Thats what happened to me. My post developed some play and the place I bought it from had no stock. OneUp sent me one direct. When I received the new one...I sent the old one back to OU.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

RS VR6 said:


> ^^Thats what happened to me. My post developed some play and the place I bought it from had no stock. OneUp sent me one direct. When I received the new one...I sent the old one back to OU.


This is a tough one for us. In the end we want customers with OneUp products to have the best customer service in the industry. That is an easy thing to manage when we sell direct. The moment we allow a dealer to step into the middle, the expectation for excellent front line support shifts to them. We will always do the right thing for our direct and indirect customers but we ask that our dealers step up on the service management instead of taking margin for nothing.

I hope that that makes sense,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## zinger-uk (Oct 26, 2005)

Hi 

Just received the Dropper Rebuild kit for my Mk1 post which had started to no longer go all the way up on its own - was having to pull up on saddle while pressing lever

I've had a google but cant find any instructions on how to remove the brass keys from the post so i can slide the seat collar off, they seem quite snug - cant pull them out with fingers and dont want to damage the post forcing them out...

Anyone know the best way to get em out

thanks


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

Ditto... I just got the V1 rebuild kit and can't find much info on how to service....specifically the metal bushing.

If anyone has any instructions would be great.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

zinger-uk said:


> I've had a google but cant find any instructions on how to remove the brass keys from the post so i can slide the seat collar off, they seem quite snug - cant pull them out with fingers and dont want to damage the post forcing them out...
> 
> Anyone know the best way to get em out





northvanguy said:


> I just got the V1 rebuild kit and can't find much info on how to service....specifically the metal bushing.
> 
> If anyone has any instructions would be great.


We have found that ~95% of posts with slow top out were caused by low air pressure. Please make sure to check this first and do so with the post fully extended. Proper air pressure is 280-300psi at full extension, and the valve is located under the top clamp.

If you are still having slow top out then there is a possibility that the upper white bushing needs replacement. This will be evident by the original bushing being difficult to reinstall after being removed.

To replace the upper bushing follow the steps for greasing (



 ) and when exposed simply spread the gap by hand and slide it off the upper tube. Once off, put the post in a mid dropped position and install the new upper bushing. The new upper bushing should be easier to reinstall.

The brass keys were put in the same kit as a precaution in case we determined that they wear out over time. To date, we have found no measurable wear on these pieces. As such, we have not had cause to recommend replacing them yet. Warning - replacing the brass keys without proper tools may cause more damage than good and will have no effect of top out.

If you do have proper equipment and expertise the process is as follows:

- Disassemble the post using steps 1-5 of https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/dropper-service-instructions 
- Wipe the area to remove the grease.
- Carefully clamp the old key with a pair of vise grip pliers and pull out.(this will damage the key so note that the old key can not be reinstalled) 
- Note that the new key has a flat side and a slightly rounded side. The rounded side will be pressed into the upper tube slot.
- Do not grease the new key.
- Press the three new keys in as far as possible be hand.
- Locate a bench mounted vise and both aluminum flat and plastic grooved soft jaw plates for the vise.
- For the two keys that oppose each other use two flat aluminum soft jaws to gently press the keys in (it does not take much force)
- For the third key use a flat aluminum soft jaw on the key side and a grooved plastic soft jaw on the upper tube side to gently press the key in.
- Regrease the keys and reassemble the post using steps 6-12 of https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/dropper-service-instructions


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

OneUp said:


> We have found that ~95% of posts with slow top out were caused by low air pressure. Please make sure to check this first and do so with the post fully extended. Proper air pressure is 280-300psi at full extension, and the valve is located under the top clamp.
> 
> If you are still having slow top out then there is a possibility that the upper white bushing needs replacement. This will be evident by the original bushing being difficult to reinstall after being removed.
> 
> ...


Will replace white bushing by hand and see how that goes as I'm having the issue of post not completely extending.

Just to clarify - what's the beige coloured bushing for? And should I be using that as well?

Thanks!


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

northvanguy said:


> Just to clarify - what's the beige coloured bushing for? And should I be using that as well?


That is the lower bushing, you do not need to replace it. Make sure to check the air pressure at full extension.

Full exploded view from our site:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0558/5501/files/Dropper-V1-exploded-A.pdf


----------



## jdcatnau (Feb 22, 2007)

OneUp said:


> That is the lower bushing, you do not need to replace it. Make sure to check the air pressure at full extension.
> 
> Full exploded view from our site:
> https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0558/5501/files/Dropper-V1-exploded-A.pdf


I'm having this issue too. Psi is at 290 and I cannot get the white busing back in with just my hands. I have to use the post to press it in. I looked on OnUp's website and do not see a bushing for sale. How do I get one?


----------



## jdcatnau (Feb 22, 2007)

I think I solved my issue. I removed the white plastic bushing and took a fine file to the outside while trying to keep its shape. I kept checking to see if I could insert the bushing by hand instead of pressing the bushing in by lowering the post. Once it went in, I cycled it 25 times and it was consistent. I’ll try it out tomorrow in the dust and see if it still gets stuck at the midpoint.


----------



## ashwinearl (Jan 2, 2004)

jdcatnau said:


> I think I solved my issue. I removed the white plastic bushing and took a fine file to the outside while trying to keep its shape. I kept checking to see if I could insert the bushing by hand instead of pressing the bushing in by lowering the post. Once it went in, I cycled it 25 times and it was consistent. I'll try it out tomorrow in the dust and see if it still gets stuck at the midpoint.


How has this been working for you? I received the new bushing but am still having problems. The new one is also difficult to get back into the post.

It sounds like you removed material from the outside of the bushing till it was easier to install back into the post.

Was that the root cause of the stiction keeping the post from returning to full height?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## Carl Mega (Jan 17, 2004)

What's the story with the white bushings/replacement? I have two of these posts and I'm ready to chuck them in the bin. Basically - no guarantee that post will return to full height. Maxed out on air pressure - lubed - seat post clamp loose enough that post slips (any tighter and it def won't return). It's clearly binding/stiction. Hate to rag on a product from a company I like but this is hard to swallow after using competitor's posts that have run perfectly for years without a touch. These fail to return fully a dozen times a ride - requires me multiple retry-bum-bumps to get them to return and have since day 1.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Carl Mega said:


> What's the story with the white bushings/replacement? I have two of these posts and I'm ready to chuck them in the bin. Basically - no guarantee that post will return to full height. Maxed out on air pressure - lubed - seat post clamp loose enough that post slips (any tighter and it def won't return). It's clearly binding/stiction. Hate to rag on a product from a company I like but this is hard to swallow after using competitor's posts that have run perfectly for years without a touch. These fail to return fully a dozen times a ride - requires me multiple retry-bum-bumps to get them to return and have since day 1.


Waiting for the new bushing to come into stock still I think.

Do me a favor and try this (5 mins). It helped mine out. (I have had the same issues with this post).

1- Remove the collar
2- Remove the bushing and clean it and the post
3- Clean and remove grease from the upper inner post (not the stantion)
4- Grease only the upper and lower stantion and collar area with SlickHoney (SRAM butter)
5- KEY STEP: Put the bushing in...no greasing the outside of it particularly
6- Put it all back together

The issue seems to be that the tolerance is off or something is. The bushing is really tight and makes the extension stick. My thought is that perhaps I've greased the outside of the bushing (slick honey) and inadvertently made the bushing even tighter. By greasing the outer bushing where nothing moves to clear out excess etc it may have contributed to worsen the issue.


----------



## ashwinearl (Jan 2, 2004)

jdcatnau said:


> I think I solved my issue. I removed the white plastic bushing and took a fine file to the outside while trying to keep its shape. I kept checking to see if I could insert the bushing by hand instead of pressing the bushing in by lowering the post. Once it went in, I cycled it 25 times and it was consistent. I'll try it out tomorrow in the dust and see if it still gets stuck at the midpoint.


I can confirm this approach helps a lot. I tried it on the original white bushing. I have a nice 2x72 belt grinder with variable frequency drive. Using a 200g belt with running at slow speeds, I sanded it down trying to keep it rotating to avoid any flat spots.

I didn't really sand/check/sand/check, just got lucky first try. The piece inserted in with less force than previously. I made an entire ride with solid extension with nice top out thunk.

One up has been really good with customer service and is allowing me to send the post back for them to look at.


----------



## fids11 (Jun 6, 2015)

jjc155 said:


> well was having issues with my less than a year old one up post (not returning fully) followed everything that I have read here (clean and grease the bushing, leave bike upside down over night, air pressure and clamp tension) and still having issues. I have cleaned regressed and left upside down twice in 5 rides. Always works great the first ride after but then starts to have issues again.
> 
> I am waiting on an email back from One Up to see what I need to do ( I bought the post from jenson's) and only have about 20-25 rides total on it.
> 
> ...


I had the same issues as described here. Would grease, reinflate to 300 psi, it would cycle maybe 20 times and then start to deteriorate from there. Been doing this since it was new. After some back and forth from Corey and OneUp and trying their suggestions with no success, Corey just emailed me and said I just sent you a new bushing that should take care of the sticky spot causing friction. I was very thankful he just took it upon himself to send me a new part, no run around at all. Got the new bushing they have designed, greased it with slickoleum. Went on the post easily. Cycled it a few times and worked well. Tried to tighten collar to 3nM meters but that was too tight (Yeti Sb 4.5c if that helps). Backed off to 2nM and that seemed to be the sweet spot. Nice and tight and cycles well with a much louder and more satisfying THWACK at the top. Cycled 30 times and no regression at all. Will ride it this week and see if it holds up. It typically would start to fail 1/4 of the way into a ride so I should be able to tell pretty quickly if it's fixed. Will report back


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

fids11 said:


> I had the same issues as described here. Would grease, reinflate to 300 psi, it would cycle maybe 20 times and then start to deteriorate from there. Been doing this since it was new. After some back and forth from Corey and OneUp and trying their suggestions with no success, Corey just emailed me and said I just sent you a new bushing that should take care of the sticky spot causing friction. I was very thankful he just took it upon himself to send me a new part, no run around at all. Got the new bushing they have designed, greased it with slickoleum. Went on the post easily. Cycled it a few times and worked well. Tried to tighten collar to 3nM meters but that was too tight (Yeti Sb 4.5c if that helps). Backed off to 2nM and that seemed to be the sweet spot. Nice and tight and cycles well with a much louder and more satisfying THWACK at the top. Cycled 30 times and no regression at all. Will ride it this week and see if it holds up. It typically would start to fail 1/4 of the way into a ride so I should be able to tell pretty quickly if it's fixed. Will report back


Man. 2nM is REALLY low isnt it?? My bike recommends 5-6 nM and I'm running 4.


----------



## jdcatnau (Feb 22, 2007)

ashwinearl said:


> How has this been working for you? I received the new bushing but am still having problems. The new one is also difficult to get back into the post.
> 
> It sounds like you removed material from the outside of the bushing till it was easier to install back into the post.
> 
> ...


The post works with no issues after I removed material from the outside of the bushing. That said, I may have removed too much because there's play in the post. I only notice the play when I grab the post to put the bike on my bike rack or doing maintenance and I grab the seat. It's maybe 1 mm of play. However, it always goes up with a thud and no more grabbing the seat mid ride with my legs to pull it up.

I am a little disappointed with OneUp. I've order two of the rebuild kits, one is lost in the mail the other has no tracking information and after emailing OneUp they sent a third rebuild kit, but no idea when it is arriving. It's been over a week now and no parts??


----------



## fids11 (Jun 6, 2015)

svinyard said:


> Man. 2nM is REALLY low isnt it?? My bike recommends 5-6 nM and I'm running 4.


Yes I totally agree. However, it's not so low that the saddle twists. To move the nose of the saddle, I have to hit it pretty firmly with my fist. Before the new bushing, the heftiest I could go was 1nM, which also is very low but, again, tight enough to not twist or cause the post to slam. I'll ride for a week and let ya'll know


----------



## fids11 (Jun 6, 2015)

svinyard said:


> Man. 2nM is REALLY low isnt it?? My bike recommends 5-6 nM and I'm running 4.


I will also say that even at 2nM, when I drop the post, it still make a low squeaking sound so you can tell that there's still some friction. However, the post comes up at the speed of light now, much faster than before and more force at the top. Like I said above, a much louder and more satisfying thwack at the top. Wish that squeaking noise didn't exist but willing to deal with it if everything works the way it should. I won't hear it on the trail, it's not that loud, but it's there. I hate squeaks and creaks....


----------



## mnpikey (Sep 18, 2017)

My one month old V1 150mm dropper has a "sag" issue. Similar issue that made me eventually get rid of my Reverb for this actually.

When I sit on the post when fully extended, or even just press with my hand, the post will sag 8-10mm. I bought one for my wife at the same time, same length, and hers is solid as a rock (and she is taller and weighs more than me?).

I just checked and the post has 280PSI currently. I only weigh 170 so I don't believe weight is an issue, besides I can cause the sag simply by putting pressure with my hand when off the bike too.

What can I do to fix this issue?

Thanks!


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

mnpikey said:


> My one month old V1 150mm dropper has a "sag" issue. Similar issue that made me eventually get rid of my Reverb for this actually.
> 
> When I sit on the post when fully extended, or even just press with my hand, the post will sag 8-10mm. I bought one for my wife at the same time, same length, and hers is solid as a rock (and she is taller and weighs more than me?).
> 
> ...


Id check your cable housing and tension. Haven't heard of any Oneup's having sag issues.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

mnpikey said:


> My one month old V1 150mm dropper has a "sag" issue. Similar issue that made me eventually get rid of my Reverb for this actually.
> 
> When I sit on the post when fully extended, or even just press with my hand, the post will sag 8-10mm. I bought one for my wife at the same time, same length, and hers is solid as a rock (and she is taller and weighs more than me?).
> 
> ...


Yeah what the other poster said. This has come up fairly often in the past and its always just a little barrel adjustment to loosen the cable tension that fixes it. Good problem to have


----------



## ashwinearl (Jan 2, 2004)

It can be more than just a barrel adjustment issue. I had a problem with the green actuator slightly touching some webbing on the inside of my seat tube on my carbon fiber frame.

I had to raise the post few mm for the bottom of the actuator to clear.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## mnpikey (Sep 18, 2017)

So, less cable tension is the fix?


----------



## fids11 (Jun 6, 2015)

Just reporting back - two rides in and the post is working flawlessly with the new bushing. Better than it's ever worked before at any time since I bought it. I'd like a louder Thwack sound at the top of the stroke, it's hard to hear when mashing downhill so I'm not certain it extended fully, but it's always right where it needs to be, just not as loud as my reverb with wolftooth remote on my other bike (Spot Rollik 557). Does anyone know if the PNW loam lever works with the oneup post? Oneup lever is okay but I've never loved the action on it and the throw is a little long for me even with the barrel tightened up


----------



## photocycler (Jan 26, 2011)

Installed the post and it doesn’t seem to want to stay in position. Only stays up or down but not In between. What could be causing this?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

photocycler said:


> Installed the post and it doesn't seem to want to stay in position. Only stays up or down but not In between. What could be causing this?


It sounds like an issue with cable tension. To confirm that, back the cable tension off with the barrel adjuster and raise the post in the frame a little (to ensure the actuator isn't limited by part of the frame).

Let me know if that doesn't work.


----------



## photocycler (Jan 26, 2011)

OneUp said:


> It sounds like an issue with cable tension. To confirm that, back the cable tension off with the barrel adjuster and raise the post in the frame a little (to ensure the actuator isn't limited by part of the frame).
> 
> Let me know if that doesn't work.


Thanks. That was it, apparently you can have too much tension which was creating the issue.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

OneUp said:


> It sounds like an issue with cable tension. To confirm that, back the cable tension off with the barrel adjuster and raise the post in the frame a little (to ensure the actuator isn't limited by part of the frame).
> 
> Let me know if that doesn't work.


It'd prob be a good idea make a simple YouTube install video for these posts (v1/v2) AND also cover some of the common mistakes/nuances/fixes etc. Its all easy but there are always a few things that you don't realize from reading a guide. Plus you guys are pretty cool on camera...at least while getting passed by Rude!


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

I've got about 50 miles on a V2 in 210mm and so far this is a stellar post. I was a little put off reading about the actuation mechanism as it seems counterintuitive but the reality is it works just the same. I could see if your cable entered the seat tube above the BB it may pose a problem but mine was a non issue.

I've owned a bunch of droppers now and it seems to me cartridge style droppers actuate the best. Meaning when I want to micro adjust up or down a smidge both my KS and now the one-up have the best feel, feedback, and action in accomplishing this. It's second nature, one and done, where on other posts I have to be very mindful of how much trigger squeeze and how much weight I'm applying to the post. The one-up works beautifully here. I also like that it extends quickly with a nice thunk. 

Compared to my revive there is more play out of the box than a year's worth of riding on the revive. Riding I never notice this until they develope a LOT of play and as mentioned the action on the one-up is much nicer imo. 210mm is a revelation. It truely allows for the seat to be completely out of the way. This opens up even more to/fro movement and lean angles. There's a learning curve though. It's amazing how much the seat still came into play at 185mm vs 210mm. Another thing is fully dropped on 185mm was a comfortable seated relaxed position and I'd pedal from there sometimes. No chance at pedalling with 210mm and even seated is super awkward. If this post is still functioning a year from now, for $177 shipped it might be the best buy out there.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

WHALENARD said:


> I've got about 50 miles on a V2 in 210mm and so far this is a stellar post. I was a little put off reading about the actuation mechanism as it seems counterintuitive but the reality is it works just the same. I could see if your cable entered the seat tube above the BB it may pose a problem but mine was a non issue.
> 
> I've owned a bunch of droppers now and it seems to me cartridge style droppers actuate the best. Meaning when I want to micro adjust up or down a smidge both my KS and now the one-up have the best feel, feedback, and action in accomplishing this. It's second nature, one and done, where on other posts I have to be very mindful of how much trigger squeeze and how much weight I'm applying to the post. The one-up works beautifully here. I also like that it extends quickly with a nice thunk.
> 
> Compared to my revive there is more play out of the box than a year's worth of riding on the revive. Riding I never notice this until they develope a LOT of play and as mentioned the action on the one-up is much nicer imo. 210mm is a revelation. It truely allows for the seat to be completely out of the way. This opens up even more to/fro movement and lean angles. There's a learning curve though. It's amazing how much the seat still came into play at 185mm vs 210mm. Another thing is fully dropped on 185mm was a comfortable seated relaxed position and I'd pedal from there sometimes. No chance at pedalling with 210mm and even seated is super awkward. If this post is still functioning a year from now, for $177 shipped it might be the best buy out there.


Thanks for the awesome feedback.

Regarding the play you've experienced. With so many different frames, clamps and ride heights it's not possible to ship play-free without running the risk of binding (especially when clamping very close to the collar). That said, we sell a kit that is meant to remove additional play that might develop over time or, for the more mechanically inclined, to tune the play out for a specific bike.

Start with the 3 pins marked with 2 lines. If play still exists move to the 3 pins marked with 4 lines.

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/collections/small-parts/products/dropper-v2-oversized-pin-kit-1


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

OneUp said:


> Thanks for the awesome feedback.
> 
> Regarding the play you've experienced. With so many different frames, clamps and ride heights it's not possible to ship play-free without running the risk of binding (especially when clamping very close to the collar). That said, we sell a kit that is meant to remove additional play that might develop over time or, for the more mechanically inclined, to tune the play out for a specific bike.
> 
> ...


Ok cool, good to know. Mine came with extra pins and what looks like a lube packet but did not know the indent lines indicated diameter. To clarify the amount of play is totally acceptable and inline with other posts. The revive just happens to be tighter and worth noting.

If I were to critique anything it would be to make the recess that captures the cable head infinitesimally deeper. That's really splitting the proverbial hairs though.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Comp Cyclist has some 170mm V1's for a pretty good price...if you live in a state where they don't charge you sales tax...it's even better.

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/oneup-components-dropper-post-ouc000q?s=a


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

Any instructions on how to do this? 

I mean it seems pretty straight forward but i don't want to stuff it up!!

Might add - i am nothing but impressed so far with my V2 210mm. Had it in the bike for a month or so now and it has been faultless. To be honest, the play i have isnt noticeable when riding.

I am clamped right at the collar...as in i pretty much have it fully inserted.... which is perfect. I get the height i want plus it gets all the way out of the way when going down (priority).

I'd like to note that the major improvement for me is that the post seems to drop from pretty much anywhere that pressure is applied to the saddle. My concern with the V1 was that i had to be in the exact right spot for it to drop smoothly. THat issue is completely gone with the V2.


----------



## kneecap (Dec 20, 2003)

I'm attempting to contact one up about my version 1 seat post.

No one responds to phone, email apparently doesn't exist. 
Any ideas? 
Hopefully oneup will respond here, thanks muchley, Kit


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

kneecap said:


> I'm attempting to contact one up about my version 1 seat post.
> 
> No one responds to phone, email apparently doesn't exist.
> Any ideas?
> Hopefully oneup will respond here, thanks muchley, Kit


Hey @kneecap. We do not have a phone line as most concerns are far more efficiently handled via email. Our e-mail is [email protected] and there us a bunch more info in our contact us page.

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/pages/contact

I hope that helps. Looking forward to hearing from you.

Jon @ oneUp


----------



## kneecap (Dec 20, 2003)

Thanks Jon, still don't see a place to ask about service for my seatpost.
I'll try here.
My first version dropper has a noticeable play from front to back, otherwise great, no other issues.
What parts/service do I need to correct this? thanks again, Kit


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

kneecap said:


> Thanks Jon, still don't see a place to ask about service for my seatpost.
> I'll try here.
> My first version dropper has a noticeable play from front to back, otherwise great, no other issues.
> What parts/service do I need to correct this? thanks again, Kit


Hello Kit, Our customer service team is ready and waiting to help. Please e-mail [email protected] as that is where we are best setup to assist you.

We stand behind everything we sell and look forward to hearing from you.
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

kneecap said:


> My first version dropper has a noticeable play from front to back, otherwise great, no other issues.


I'm starting to notice front to back play too. Its also taking a bit more effort to drop the post.


----------



## danny.mendes (Mar 11, 2013)

jjc155 said:


> well was having issues with my less than a year old one up post (not returning fully) followed everything that I have read here (clean and grease the bushing, leave bike upside down over night, air pressure and clamp tension) and still having issues. I have cleaned regressed and left upside down twice in 5 rides. Always works great the first ride after but then starts to have issues again.
> 
> I am waiting on an email back from One Up to see what I need to do ( I bought the post from jenson's) and only have about 20-25 rides total on it.
> 
> ...


For those of you having this issue, this fix worked for my V1. The white bushing under the collar was the problem. The bottom of the bushing was bottoming out on the guild pins and causing a ton a stiction. I took my Dremel with a cutoff wheel and removed about 4mm from the bottom of the bushing. Cleaned it up and re-installed. My post now works perfect. I was able to tighten down the collar, tighten the seatpost clamp to 8Nm and I dropped the air pressure to 200 psi. The post comes up quickly with a nice audible thump. It has the same amount of small play as it had before.

The new bushing that OneUp sells might also be a fix, but I didn't want to order one and wait 1-2 weeks.


----------



## Chicane32 (Jul 12, 2015)

danny.mendes said:


> For those of you having this issue, this fix worked for my V1. The white bushing under the collar was the problem. The bottom of the bushing was bottoming out on the guild pins and causing a ton a stiction. I took my Dremel with a cutoff wheel and removed about 4mm from the bottom of the bushing. Cleaned it up and re-installed. My post now works perfect. I was able to tighten down the collar, tighten the seatpost clamp to 8Nm and I dropped the air pressure to 200 psi. The post comes up quickly with a nice audible thump. It has the same amount of small play as it had before.
> 
> The new bushing that OneUp sells might also be a fix, but I didn't want to order one and wait 1-2 weeks.


200? Every 2 months or so my air psi drops around the low 200's and my post returns slower than normal. A simple psi increase to 285 and my post returns like new again. 8nm? I tighten my carbon frame to 4nm and would never go higher than 5nm.


----------



## danny.mendes (Mar 11, 2013)

Chicane32 said:


> 200? Every 2 months or so my air psi drops around the low 200's and my post returns slower than normal. A simple psi increase to 285 and my post returns like new again. 8nm? I tighten my carbon frame to 4nm and would never go higher than 5nm.


Oops, my bad. 8Nm is what I use for the seat rail clamp. I torque the seatpost clamp to 5Nm. After the bushing modification, I don't need that much pressure for the post to return nice and fast.


----------



## kneecap (Dec 20, 2003)

Owen got back to me on my post issues. Parts on the way!
Excellent service from an outstanding company, I'm a happy camper for sure!


----------



## idividebyzero (Sep 25, 2014)

danny.mendes said:


> For those of you having this issue, this fix worked for my V1. The white bushing under the collar was the problem. The bottom of the bushing was bottoming out on the guild pins and causing a ton a stiction. I took my Dremel with a cutoff wheel and removed about 4mm from the bottom of the bushing. Cleaned it up and re-installed. My post now works perfect. I was able to tighten down the collar, tighten the seatpost clamp to 8Nm and I dropped the air pressure to 200 psi. The post comes up quickly with a nice audible thump. It has the same amount of small play as it had before.
> 
> The new bushing that OneUp sells might also be a fix, but I didn't want to order one and wait 1-2 weeks.


Thanks, this worked for me. I looked at the bushing and there were indentations from the brass keys. I didnt remove 4mm though, I just sanded it down until the indentations were gone. I also sanded the inside with 600grit sandpaper just enough to smooth it out since it was kind of scratched up. It was fast and easy since its just plastic.

Very smooth operation now, will see how long it lasts and if I need to remove more plastic


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

hey peoples,

Dropper V1 installed on wifes bike for nearly 2 years.
She stacked it and stuffed the cable and housing, I have it working again, but ultimately need a new cable,

If I remember correctly I can use a "gear" cable for this?
for example this one: https://www.probikeshop.com/en/ch/shimano-optislick-gear-cable/126724.html

A look on the oneup site and l couldnt find cables or housings.

thanks in advance


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

*Tumbleweed*


----------



## kneecap (Dec 20, 2003)

Yup, gear cable is what's used, & comes with the post when new


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

kneecap said:


> Yup, gear cable is what's used, & comes with the post when new


Cheers


----------



## Coal-Cracker (May 4, 2010)

kneecap said:


> Yup, gear cable is what's used, & comes with the post when new


I didn't get cable with my post; I just received it two days ago from OneUp.

It also came with a small packet. Not sure if its lube or carbon paste,? Anyone know?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Maxis (Jan 29, 2016)

Hi Guys,

I have swapped my brakes shimano SLX with I-SPEC II to XT with I-Spec EV, my OneUp remote is the first version V1 (image) with I-SPEC II adapter but now i need some clamp for I-SPEC EV, any solution? (not very expensive)


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

The only adapter I found for the left side to use with Shimano brakes is from a small company called *3min19s*, I think it's German.


----------



## Mijais (Nov 10, 2018)

OneUp said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Here are the shim dimensions. It you are handy enough to make one up go for it. We do sell them with every remote and three packs will be back in stock around Sept 25.
> 
> ...


what material can I use? an old credit card maybe? but the thickness are less, I think it's about 0.8... can I still use it?


----------



## feelfreemtb (Jun 8, 2020)

Hey guys. I'm new here. But I have a experience with my Oneup dropper. I bought it directly at Oneup, but now I see a scratch on the inner stanchion. I only had a few rides with it, so it's definitely no sand. I think something on the inside is scratching. Also the dropper doesn't rise when I sat a few minutes on it lowered.


----------



## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

Not totally surprised to see that. Quite frankly, I'm expecting to see the same thing on my 210mm oneup. After my initial break-in period on my 210mm post, I was experiencing it being very slow to return. I tore it down to clean/grease everything and found that the top slide bushing had what appeared to be cuts in the sliding surface. I also noticed that there seemed to be a far tighter fit on that bushing then I had noted in my other v2 one up posts. In addition, I noted some odd wear on the lower plastic slide bushing as well.

This isn't a problem that I've experienced or seen on my two other 180mm posts (both v2's, one 30.9 and one 31.6). I cleaned everything up, greased it and put it back together. It's been fine since but I keep expecting to see wear marks in the stanchion because of the above listed issues. To be fair, it's been fine ever since but it does weird me out.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

feelfreemtb said:


> I see a scratch on the inner stanchion. I only had a few rides with it


Sorry to see that. Please e-mail us at [email protected] and we'll get you sorted out.



minimusprime said:


> I tore it down to clean/grease everything and found that the top slide bushing had what appeared to be cuts in the sliding surface. I also noticed that there seemed to be a far tighter fit on that bushing then I had noted in my other v2 one up posts. In addition, I noted some odd wear on the lower plastic slide bushing as well.


The dents in the lower bushing are normal and will not cause any issues. The IGUS bushing marks are strange, we'd be happy to send you a rebuild kit.

I Hope that helps,

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## feelfreemtb (Jun 8, 2020)

OneUp said:


> Sorry to see that. Please e-mail us at [email protected] and we'll get you sorted out.


Thanks mate, that's a fast reply. I allready mailed your warranty department. Let's see if you can solve this for me.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Has anyone used a rebuild kit? I have a V1 that developing rotational play.


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

RS VR6 said:


> Has anyone used a rebuild kit? I have a V1 that developing rotational play.


My 170mm V1 has also developed some, so interested in replies too


----------



## feelfreemtb (Jun 8, 2020)

So I had a scratch on the inner stanchion that had it's source inside the dropper V2. 

Oneup replied to my email in the evening (way after opening hours), the day I sent my mail, They are gonna replace the post under warranty! They first send the new post and after I can send the faulty post back. Now that's customer Support!!! Oneup for Oneup


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

Wow, that's amazing CS! Makes deciding on a new 180mm more appealing.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Trinimon said:


> Wow, that's amazing CS! Makes deciding on a new 180mm more appealing.


Mines been flawless going on 2 seasons. I'm 225-235 and am not easy on bikes. Also on a 210mm which is a LOT of leverage.

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## da799 (Jul 17, 2014)

*Sticking post*



OneUp said:


> Sorry to see that. Please e-mail us at [email protected] and we'll get you sorted out.
> 
> The dents in the lower bushing are normal and will not cause any issues. The IGUS bushing marks are strange, we'd be happy to send you a rebuild kit.
> 
> ...


Hey Jon, I'm having an issue with the V2 180. I bought it to get an extra 10mm having been using the 170 v1 without issue. It's never returned as smoothly or as quickly as the V1. Lately it developed an issue where it would only raise half way up. If i unscrew the collar it will return to the full height. I've since gone back to the 170 as it was annoying the hell out of me. Any suggestions? Cheers


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

da799 said:


> Hey Jon, I'm having an issue with the V2 180. I bought it to get an extra 10mm having been using the 170 v1 without issue. It's never returned as smoothly or as quickly as the V1. Lately it developed an issue where it would only raise half way up. If i unscrew the collar it will return to the full height. I've since gone back to the 170 as it was annoying the hell out of me. Any suggestions? Cheers


Hey man, the post can dry out. Especially when new, which is why they included the grease packet. I just unscrew the collar, pop the post a bit to expose the bushing and the LIBERALLY apply slick honey below the bushing, above it and under the collar. Then work the collar up and down. Push the bushing back in, screw it together and it'll likely be good to go 5mins later. I have both v1 and v2 posts. The V2 has been rock solid aside from needing a solid greasing 9mo in.


----------



## klatekin (Oct 13, 2017)

da799 said:


> Hey Jon, I'm having an issue with the V2 180. I bought it to get an extra 10mm having been using the 170 v1 without issue. It's never returned as smoothly or as quickly as the V1. Lately it developed an issue where it would only raise half way up. If i unscrew the collar it will return to the full height. I've since gone back to the 170 as it was annoying the hell out of me. Any suggestions? Cheers


Have you checked the air pressure recently? I noticed the same thing with mine after it's been sitting all winter. Added to the recommended psi along with some slick honey, it's working well again.


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

OneUp said:


> Sorry to see that. Please e-mail us at [email protected] and we'll get you sorted out.
> 
> The dents in the lower bushing are normal and will not cause any issues. The IGUS bushing marks are strange, we'd be happy to send you a rebuild kit.
> 
> ...


This is the one thing I see as maybe a missed design opportunity is the brass pins slam into the plastic bushing if reducing travel (maybe at full travel too but I've been running reduced). I think it may have been wise to use a steel washer as a barrier between the pins and bushing so the load is spread out and not jammed into the bushing. Hasn't been an issue yet but I imagine the bushing will eventually get beaten up.


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

@OneUp

I've got the V2 in 210mm and like about 5-10mm of post showing between seatpost collar and dropper collar. 

Problem I'm having is in order to stop post sliding down I need to tighten seatpost collar very lightly but enough that it impacts the last 20-30cm of the post travel (to fully extended) 

I've literally tried quarter turns of the seatpost collar and that tiny variance goes from a post that slips to a post that gets stuck.

Pressure is just under 300psi. 

Well lubed and recently serviced.

It's like the slightly wider part of post with the gold pieces is just that ever so slightly wider which prevents that last bit of extension.

When seat collar is loose post functions absolutely mint.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

northvanguy said:


> (...)
> Any suggestions?


How tall is your seatpost clamp?
It seems to be the norm this days for bikes to come with very narrow clamps, I would suggest trying a clamp that's around 2cm taller if your seat tube allow it, this will distribute the force on the seatpost for a larger area, meaning you don't have to tight the clamp to the point it interferes with the seatpost. But make sure your seat tube clamp area allows your to use a taller clamp.


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

Aglo said:


> How tall is your seatpost clamp?
> It seems to be the norm this days for bikes to come with very narrow clamps, I would suggest trying a clamp that's around 2cm taller if your seat tube allow it, this will distribute the force on the seatpost for a larger area, meaning you don't have to tight the clamp to the point it interferes with the seatpost. But make sure your seat tube clamp area allows your to use a taller clamp.


Thanks for suggestion... carbon frame and I don't think I could use a thicker clamp....potentially slightly larger but the carbon thins for the clamp and nowhere near 2cm worth.

2017 Rocky Mtn Slayer for reference.


----------



## montananate (Jan 21, 2009)

northvanguy said:


> Thanks for suggestion... carbon frame and I don't think I could use a thicker clamp....potentially slightly larger but the carbon thins for the clamp and nowhere near 2cm worth.
> 
> 2017 Rocky Mtn Slayer for reference.


I have this exact problem with a V1 version. I tried using Finish Line Fiber Grip as suggested and this wasn't any help. I love the post, but this problem renders it unusable. Do other droppers have the same issue?


----------



## danK (Jan 15, 2004)

Received my warrantied 30x150 V2 in about 5 business days. And a prepaid return label for faulty post!

Weight with seat rail clamps and bolts - no housing or cable or lever - is 452 grams. Gotta love that.

Applied some of the included slickoleum (easy to do since post ships compressed, and the shaft lock unscrews easily).

And most importantly: it works flawlessly. No binding or stiction on the initial lever hit.

As many have stated, customer service, timeliness to emails, and overall "attitude" (no brah or hipster or better than thou tone like some) was a 10 out of 10.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Jesse Hill said:


> This is the one thing I see as maybe a missed design opportunity is the brass pins slam into the plastic bushing if reducing travel (maybe at full travel too but I've been running reduced). I think it may have been wise to use a steel washer as a barrier between the pins and bushing so the load is spread out and not jammed into the bushing. Hasn't been an issue yet but I imagine the bushing will eventually get beaten up.


Mine has a plastic collar which I assume is for just that.

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## montananate (Jan 21, 2009)

danK said:


> Received my warrantied 30x150 V2 in about 5 business days. And a prepaid return label for faulty post!
> 
> Weight with seat rail clamps and bolts - no housing or cable or lever - is 452 grams. Gotta love that.
> 
> ...


Did you purchase direct from the website and then direct to OneUp's warranty department or via online or local dealer?


----------



## da799 (Jul 17, 2014)

svinyard said:


> Hey man, the post can dry out. Especially when new, which is why they included the grease packet. I just unscrew the collar, pop the post a bit to expose the bushing and the LIBERALLY apply slick honey below the bushing, above it and under the collar. Then work the collar up and down. Push the bushing back in, screw it together and it'll likely be good to go 5mins later. I have both v1 and v2 posts. The V2 has been rock solid aside from needing a solid greasing 9mo in.


Yeah I've greased it with Slick Honey too, the issue I have is that it gets stuck at a specific point every time. If you unscrew the collar and slide it up the post it gets stuck even when greased. Bizarre


----------



## crembz (Feb 25, 2019)

So I switched my V2 dropper into my banshee phantom frame and inserted the travel pins. I noticed that the noise from the dropper compressing sounded really rough.

I pulled the entire post apart, cleaned and regreased everything. Actuating it by hand everything seems smooth. I did notice that the air escaping from the bottom is quite loud on these. Anyways back in the frame and again sounds really rough. Back out, smooth and quite actuation other than the air.

Has anyone noticed this as well? Really strange could it be the sound of the air passing through the frame tubes? I compared this to my V1 dropper in a different bike which sounds more like a 'normal' gas lift actuation. It exhibits a similar sound on close inspection, but it's much much much more subdued so it's not nearly as noticeable.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

da799 said:


> Yeah I've greased it with Slick Honey too, the issue I have is that it gets stuck at a specific point every time. If you unscrew the collar and slide it up the post it gets stuck even when greased. Bizarre


Wait, so even when the collar is unscrewed and moved up/out of the way...the post still won't fully extend? That's definitely screwy because in that case, the bushing isn't even active (it'll slide with the post) and the collar seal isn't engaged either.

Two things:
1- Reset your seat collar torque to 4nm
2- Double check the air pressure in the post and put it at 280psi

Those are just "check the fuse box" items anyone should do (along with heavy greasing with Slick Honey). Looks like OneUp guys are helping you out though.


----------



## pedaler845 (Jul 18, 2004)

I've got a creak in my V1, it's only got 5 rides on it. 

Can someone point me to info on creak fixes for this post?


----------



## boubla (May 12, 2012)

(ignore - wrong forum)


----------



## BluePitch (Sep 13, 2009)

Posted elsewhere


----------

