# RockShox Reverb Thread



## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Figured we should make a thread for all the thoughts and common issues from Reverb owners and for potential Reverb buyers. It'll also be a great place to post short, mid, and long term reviews of the post, as well as pictures of Reverb setups.

A lot of this information was pulled from the ajdustable seatpost thread. Thanks to BMJ and tscheezy for their contributions.

*Strengths*
1. Incredibly smooth actuation
2. No degradation of cable to worry about
3. Substantial fork seals should keep contaminants out
4. Easily serviced by any place that services forks
5. Very little play, can't be felt while on bike, only while moving saddle by hand with bike stationary
6. Stupid easy to bleed and shorten cable
7. Solid 2 bolt saddle clamp mechanism
8. Lightweight at 515g claimed weight (30.9mm diameter, 380mm length version)
9. Infinite adjustability
10. 5 inches of adjust
11. Adjustable return speed
12. Syringes/Oil included in box
13. Combination clamp for SRAM shifters included
14. Mounts with matchmaker clamp if you have SRAM shifters and Avid brakes (not included)
15. Quiet. No noise when engaged or moving into a setting
16. Slick looks

*Weaknesses*
1. May need to be filled pretty much right from the factory if your post is slow (see below).
2. Seatpost clamp bolts may back out on first ride. Make sure to tighten well and possibly loctite. Does not appear to reoccur after things are settled and re-tightened.
3. Hydraulic cable has coil memory and has to be trained a little before it will behave.
4. Hydraulic cable forms large bends when lowered. On some frames need to be creative with cable routing to avoid cable getting into linkage/contacting rear tire with suspension travel.
5. SRAM shifter combination clamp is a pain to setup (not an issue with standalone clamp).
6. Can be sensitive to clamping force if over-tightened. This is true with most adjustable posts. I have not experienced this as I'm a bigger guy.

*You Decide*
Torx bolt at remote clamp instead of Allen can be annoying if you don't have a newer multitool with Torx head, but less chance of stripping bolt.

*Important Note:*
For anyone who is experiencing slow return speed out of the box, you pretty much have to follow the procedure that BMJ did, listed below, *unless you are shortening the line.*

*Shortening Line:*
You should already have the remote mounted to your bike and the cable routed how you want it at this stage. If you are shortening the line, dial the barrel adjuster all the way to the slowest setting. Remove the line from the remote. The instructions in the SRAM link below say to cut a slit in the cable and then pull off, but I had problems cutting the cable. I used pliers and was able to gently pull the cable off the barb without much trouble. The barb will stay on the remote, so no need to worry about barbs and olives like hydraulic brakes.

Measure and cut the cable to the desired length with a proper cable cutter that won't crimp the hose. Make sure to leave enough cable for your handlebars to completely turn both ways without pulling the cable out of the lever. Hold cable vertical when cutting and plug end with finger to ensure you don't spill any oil. You should have oil up to the end of the cable. Reattach cable to barb of remote. You should be able to push it all the way on with your fingers. If you have problems, wrap a rag around the cable and use pliers to push the rest of the way on without crushing or gouging the cable. Turn the barrel adjuster to the highest setting. Work the seatpost and remote. You should now have fast return like expected.

If you did spill some oil it is ok, you will just have to add some more. Follow BMJ's instructions and the SRAM guide below. It is very simple with the included syringe. You really should fill it with the barrel adjuster in the slowest setting so you get fast return. If you top it off with it in the fastest setting, the post will creep up like a snail.

*Bleeding Process:*


BMJ said:


> I set the speed dial full slow, which pulled in the lever. I then filled one of the syringes and threaded it into the remote bleed hole. I pumped in fluid untill the remote lever was full out again and put a little pressure on the system. Upon removing the syringe, some fluid backed out and then I sealed it back up.
> 
> Results....
> 
> ...


*Instructions and diagram for hydraulic remote can be found here:*
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/sram/dealers/XLoc-Hose-Adj-and-Bleed-Procedure.pdf

2 year warranty, original owner only

*User Submitted Specs*
*Actual Weights:*
30.9/380 - 522 grams (tscheezy)
30.9/420 - 565 grams (scottg)
31.6/380 - 537 grams (mitja)
31.6/420 -

*Install lengths:*
I measured about 7 1/4" from bottom of fitting to bottom of seat rails, about 7 1/2" to top of seat rails.
Bottom of silver fitting to the seat rails is 190 mm when post is fully extended. (scottg)
You need a minimum of 195mm of exposed post (from the enter of the saddle rails to the top of the seat tube/collar) to run a Reverb. (tscheezy)

80mm Minimum Insertion Length or about 3.15 inches (Reverb Manual)


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Short term impressions are great. Despite the few setup quirks, so far this has been the best upgrade I've made to my bike. I love being able to put the saddle wherever I want it for various terrain without having to worry about finding any stopping points along the way. I drop it 1-2 inches for technical descending and all the way down for the steep, rough, downhills. So far the post has been excellent. It moves smoothly without any issues. It doesn't drop or come up when it's not supposed to. The hydraulic remote feels awesome. We will see how it holds up long-term.

Also, just a little quirk. The post will work perfectly fine if you engage it while you're already sitting on it. It does work smoother however, if you unweight the saddle, press the remote, and then sit on it to lower it.


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

cant wait to get my hands on one of these.


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## IJBCape (Jun 14, 2010)

Loving mine as well. It's held up solidly for a dozen rides and added a new dimension to my rides. It is my first remote adjustable post, but I'm finding I use it way more than I expected and it performs great.


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## in the trees (Mar 24, 2005)

Rail to bottom of collar measurements need to added to this thread as well. And confirmed weights.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

in the trees said:


> Rail to bottom of collar measurements need to added to this thread as well. And confirmed weights.


I'll get you up some measurements, but I'll leave it to someone else to post the confirmed weights and I'll add them. I didn't bother to weigh mine before I installed it, and I'm not weight weenie enough to own a parts scale.  Various posts I've seen around have put it at just around or a tiny bit above the claimed weight, with a little bit more for the longer version and the 31.6 size.

Edit: Added information from previous posts (thanks to scottg and tscheezy). Haven't heard of anyone with either 31.6 version yet though.


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## AkumaY (May 19, 2006)

anyone know if you can put a spacer or something to limit the travel on the reverb? its a smidge too long for me.


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## miniwisejosh (Sep 14, 2007)

Well, it is an infinite position post. Just don't push it all the way down.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Does the reverb come with a seat post clamp as red somewhere you need to set it to a specific torque so as to not affect the function of it.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Rick Draper said:


> Does the reverb come with a seat post clamp as red somewhere you need to set it to a specific torque so as to not affect the function of it.


No just get a bolt on clamp and use a torque wrench. They do specify torque settings in the manual. No need for a QR anyway with an adjustable post. I didn't have a torque wrench handy, so I just guessed on mine. I tightened it down until it was pretty damn tight, but didn't brute force it tight. If you use a small allen key or multitool like I did, you're unlikely to over-torque it too much with the minimal leverage, though you certainly could if you ape-handed it. It works fine for me.


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## chenpj (Jul 23, 2004)

*adding air?*

Does anyone know if you can adjust the return speed of this post by adding air via a pump? It seems from the instructions given in the beginning here that the return speed of the post is, at least in part, determined by the oil level and proper bleeding.

thanks,
peter


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## nightofthefleming (Jun 14, 2009)

chenpj said:


> Does anyone know if you can adjust the return speed of this post by adding air via a pump? It seems from the instructions given in the beginning here that the return speed of the post is, at least in part, determined by the oil level and proper bleeding.
> 
> thanks,
> peter


I don't have one, but my understanding is that the return speed is adjusted by a barrel adjuster at the remote since it is hydraulic and not cable actuated. Someone correct me if I'm wrong


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## mitja (Jan 12, 2006)

Here it is: weight of out of the box RS Reverb in 31.6 380mm


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

Can you trim the bottom of the seatpost off for frame clearance, on the 380mm version of course, thanks.


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

> 5. Torx bolt at remote clamp instead of Allen.


pls move this into the 'strengths' column, where it belongs.

chainring bolts, disc rotor bolts, small clamp bolts (especially if made from aluminum, e.g. hi end formula brakes) are increasingly torx not allen, for sound engineering reasons.

multitool mfg'ers are starting to realize this as well.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

mitja said:


> Here it is: weight of out of the box RS Reverb in 31.6 380mm


Added. Thanks. :thumbsup:


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

frorider said:


> pls move this into the 'strengths' column, where it belongs.
> 
> chainring bolts, disc rotor bolts, small clamp bolts (especially if made from aluminum, e.g. hi end formula brakes) are increasingly torx not allen, for sound engineering reasons.
> 
> multitool mfg'ers are starting to realize this as well.


Let's just list it as an either or.  For me it was annoying. Personally, I've never stripped out a 4 or 5mm allen before. I've never even stripped out the tiny ones on my lock-on grips in all the times I've taken them off and put them back on.


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## mitja (Jan 12, 2006)

mimi1885 said:


> Can you trim the bottom of the seatpost off for frame clearance, on the 380mm version of course, thanks.


I think you can't, the bottom of outer tube is almost in line (maybe 2-3mm longer) with shredder walve in the middle.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Should have my Reverb on Wednesday or Thursday. Will get it weighed and get the results up on here. Its going to be the 380mm 30.9mm version.


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## daniyarm (Jan 18, 2007)

So I guess my main question about this seatpost is: Why couldn't they design it so cable would attach to the bottom part of the seatpost and wouldn't have to move?


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

daniyarm said:


> So I guess my main question about this seatpost is: Why couldn't they design it so cable would attach to the bottom part of the seatpost and wouldn't have to move?


Well, That would have make sense , most of the mechanical ones do though, the Hydro is the one that needs work.


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

mimi1885 said:


> most of the mechanical ones do though


the majority do but the most popular and argueably best mech posts (command, ks950) route it at the top.


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## spokeywheeler (Dec 1, 2006)

I am very interested in getting a reverb to replace the joplin 4 post I am currently running. The newer joplin has been working well so far but the reverb has so many significant performance advantages that I am looking to make the switch soon. The only thing holding me back at this point is the remote switch. Seems that only right hand remotes are shipping and that a left mount may end up being an aftermarket add on anyway? Also, people are running their RH switches upside down on the left side so the lever doesn't stick up so much. I want to run the remote on the left and it seems that this might be the way to go. Are people running them this way happy with the setup?


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

sessionrider said:


> Also, people are running their RH switches upside down on the left side so the lever doesn't stick up so much. I want to run the remote on the left and it seems that this might be the way to go. Are people running them this way happy with the setup?


Nearest I can tell, that's only an option if you aren't running a shifter on the left side. The ergonomics would seem much improved if you are able to run it on the bottom.

I'm also not happy with the LH/RH lottery. Hopefully the next round of shipments will have this as an option.


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## Huck Pitueee (Apr 25, 2009)

Where can I buy one? Everywhere I looked is out of stock.


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## Rugbyroy (Oct 14, 2004)

Universal cycles seems to have some in stock

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=37594&category=4201:thumbsup:


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## Huck Pitueee (Apr 25, 2009)

Rugbyroy said:


> Universal cycles seems to have some in stock
> 
> http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=37594&category=4201:thumbsup:


Thanks.I'm gonna call them this morning.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Huck Pitueee said:


> Thanks.I'm gonna call them this morning.


If you order from Universal, make sure to buy something small to bump your order over $300 and use code VIP15 to get 15% off orders of 300 or more. That bumps the Reverb price down to less than $260. :thumbsup:


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## in the trees (Mar 24, 2005)

BaeckerX1 said:


> If you order from Universal, make sure to buy something small to bump your order over $300 and use code VIP15 to get 15% off orders of 300 or more. That bumps the Reverb price down to less than $260. :thumbsup:


X2. Plus you'll get free standard shipping.


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

*Right remote... left side... yes.*



sessionrider said:


> I am very interested in getting a reverb to replace the joplin 4 post I am currently running. The newer joplin has been working well so far but the reverb has so many significant performance advantages that I am looking to make the switch soon. The only thing holding me back at this point is the remote switch. Seems that only right hand remotes are shipping and that a left mount may end up being an aftermarket add on anyway? Also, people are running their RH switches upside down on the left side so the lever doesn't stick up so much. I want to run the remote on the left and it seems that this might be the way to go. Are people running them this way happy with the setup?


I'm running mine this way. Not to protect it but to put the button in a position that I don't have to raise my thum above the bar in the rough. Works out great! I'm running 1x9 though and think it would be difficult to get away with this if you weren't.


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

*My speedy little trick.*



chenpj said:


> Does anyone know if you can adjust the return speed of this post by adding air via a pump? It seems from the instructions given in the beginning here that the return speed of the post is, at least in part, determined by the oil level and proper bleeding.
> 
> thanks,
> peter


According to the instructions, they don't want you fussing with the air pressure. It's set very high from the factory at 250psi!

I tricked my activation valve inside the post by topping off my remote in 40deg temps. Because the fluid within the closed remote system contracts when cold, you can squeeze in a little more juice into the line and preload the main valve. This makes it quick in the cold and lightning fast and snappy when it's warmer out! If you were to leave it this way in the full heat of the summer, you'd probably have to either back out the return speed adjuster at the remote to allow for extreme expansion or bleed out some fluid for the summer season.

Mine is fast like on steroids  with this set-up and the remote activates very quickly in it's stroke to get things moving without having to push the remote button all the way in.


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## Lev (Oct 12, 2004)

Hey all, was wondering if you have any advice about choosing the 380mm vs. 420mm. It looks like most other comparable seatposts (KS, Command Post, etc.) run in the 380 range. That's actually what I wound up ordering, but the order hasn't been filled yet so I figured I would check in here. For reference, I'm 5'10"

Thanks


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Lev said:


> Hey all, was wondering if you have any advice about choosing the 380mm vs. 420mm. It looks like most other comparable seatposts (KS, Command Post, etc.) run in the 380 range. That's actually what I wound up ordering, but the order hasn't been filled yet so I figured I would check in here. For reference, I'm 5'10"
> 
> Thanks


Set your current post to the highest point you'd like to run it.
Measure the exposed length to the seat rails.
Add 80mm.
If that total number is greater than 380, you might want the 420.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Lev said:


> Hey all, was wondering if you have any advice about choosing the 380mm vs. 420mm. It looks like most other comparable seatposts (KS, Command Post, etc.) run in the 380 range. That's actually what I wound up ordering, but the order hasn't been filled yet so I figured I would check in here. For reference, I'm 5'10"
> 
> Thanks


At 6'0 I run the 380. You'll be fine as long as your frame is pretty standard as far as standover and seat tube height. 380mm is right at 15 inches. That's pretty long. You'd have to have almost 12 inches of exposed seatpost to be at the minimum insertion for the post, though I wouldn't want to be close to the minimum insertion.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Anyone know any stores in the USA that have stock of 380mm 30.9mm reverbs and that will also ship to the UK?


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## RSMarco (Mar 7, 2008)

car_nut said:


> Set your current post to the highest point you'd like to run it.
> Measure the exposed length to the seat rails.
> Add 80mm.
> If that total number is greater than 380, you might want the 420.


Is this the official way to establish the correct length post to buy?

Not seen any fore sale yet in the UK.

Thanks

Mark


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

RSMarco said:


> Not seen any fore sale yet in the UK.


Nope and its going to be December or January before we get them FFS.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

RSMarco said:


> Is this the official way to establish the correct length post to buy?
> 
> Not seen any fore sale yet in the UK.
> 
> ...


Definitely not :nono: I don't recommend anyone taking my advice as official 

The minimum insertion is 80 mm. If you have <280mm of post sticking out at the highest point you want to use it, then 380 should do it. More than 280 and you'll have to start thinking about whether or not you like running a post at minimum insertion.


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## pumpkins (Feb 24, 2007)

Some frames may even specify a minimum post insertion that may be longer than the Reverb 80mm


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

pumpkins said:


> Some frames may even specify a minimum post insertion that may be longer than the Reverb 80mm


Good point. See, I knew I was usually wrong


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## RSMarco (Mar 7, 2008)

My frame is a Large Santacruz Carbon Nomad and I think the min insert length is 100mm?

Why are the UK boy's having to wait. Are they optimising the seals to cope with the wet weather..lol

Thanks guy's.


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## Strong like Bull (Jan 15, 2004)

Does anyone know if the 420mm length post is trimmable? Is it basically the same as the 380mm with a longer tube going into the frame that could be trimmed if required?


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## zirkel 1 (May 28, 2006)

unfortunately the 420mm post cannot be trimmed, the innards come right to the bottom. BTW, when deciding what length to get, one should probably see how much insertion the frame manufacturer recommends, my uzzi is recommended 5" minimum.


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

BMJ said:


> According to the instructions, they don't want you fussing with the air pressure. It's set very high from the factory at 250psi!


I got away with attaching a shock pump to the nozzle and re-establishing 250PSI without effecting the performance. I think RS should attach a red tag to the post with a warning not to adjust the air pressure. With the 250 psi etched on the nozzle cap it's just _screaming_ "check me". On a second (slower) read of the manual, I saw this warning:

I*mportant*: _DO NOT attempt to adjust air pressure using the air valve located on the bottom of the seatpost. Any change in the factory pressure will render the seatpost inoperable, requiring full service._

I've put about 25 hours of riding on mine so far and it's still performing like day 1.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

RSMarco said:


> Why are the UK boy's having to wait. Are they optimising the seals to cope with the wet weather..lol


Probably optimi*Z*ing the manual so you Brits don't cry over the bastardi*Z*ation of the Queen's English. :lol:

We know how sensitive you can get.


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## RSMarco (Mar 7, 2008)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Probably optimi*Z*ing the manual so you Brits don't cry over the bastardi*Z*ation of the Queen's English. :lol:
> 
> We know how sensitive you can get.


Haha,
Very funny, there is always one..! Was just testing you guy's


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

I think we in the UK are having to wait so Sram can see how many americans ignore the English manual and connect a shock pump to the valve at the bottom of the post to "check" the seatpost pressure lmfao.


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## RSMarco (Mar 7, 2008)

just like a big red button with a BIG sign saying 'Do Not Press'

lol


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

Problem is, IFP's can be fickle. If you allow the pressure to go too low, the IFP can migrate and cause air to mix with the fluid. On a suspension fork or shock, it can hamper performance and make annoying swishing sounds as they suck the air through the damper, but on a height adjust seatpost, it affects the ability of the post to hold at set heights without spongyness. The small amount of air that feeds into the fluid can be compressed and now you have a height adjust "suspension post". Now you basically have a Joplin post but you can't cycle the air out manually, you need a full rebuild with the IFP being reset at the proper height without any air trapped above it. I've set IFP's before, it can be a pain in the A**!

Another "Big Red Button" item out there is user adjustable B/O rear shocks. Got one of these and you go below or above the printed range, you may be looking at a rebuild as well.

One nice thing about having the ability to access the air valve on the Reverb is the fact that it could be user servicable if you competent to do so. The KS i900 I just sent in for rebuild... couldn't find an air valve anywhere or see a way to take it apart in my home shop, so off in the mail it went.


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## Johnnydrz (Jul 8, 2005)

BMJ, funny thing you mention "The small amount of air that feeds into the fluid can be compressed and now you have a height adjust "suspension post"... because I am presently using a suspension post on my present hardtail bike (SS) because of a bad back. I really want to get an adjustable post for all the benefits they have, but I'll loose that squish my back is used to now... I wonder if I could have the best of both worlds...

Johnnydrz


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## ziscwg (May 18, 2007)

BaeckerX1 said:


> If you order from Universal, make sure to buy something small to bump your order over $300 and use code VIP15 to get 15% off orders of 300 or more. That bumps the Reverb price down to less than $260. :thumbsup:


Do some searching for a lower price and see if they will price match. Sometimes they only give a little off, but that's still something. Get some brake pads or gels to put you just above the $300 mark. When I got my crankset from them, I got a price match ($10 less), 15 % off, and free shipping :thumbsup:


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

*Maybe look into this product*

If your looking for a height adjust seatpost with some suspension, you may want to look into this product.

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=31051

Can't be too high-tech for under $50 bucks but probably cheaper then having to have your new Reverb rebuilt because you couldn't frankenstein it.

As far as trying to modify a Reverb, the squish you'd probably be able to create wouldn't be able to actually hold you up but be more of an annoyance.


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## Ventanarama (Dec 10, 2001)

QBP got them in yesterday and sold out within a few hours, I managed to grab 7 before they were gone though. Have a couple that aren't spoken for if anyone is looking. I think they're getting more into their other warehouse this week also.

Larry 
www.mtnhighcyclery.com


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## EricTheRed (Jan 12, 2004)

Ventanarama said:


> QBP got them in yesterday and sold out within a few hours, I managed to grab 7 before they were gone though. Have a couple that aren't spoken for if anyone is looking. I think they're getting more into their other warehouse this week also.
> 
> Larry
> www.mtnhighcyclery.com


Good news!


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## jgusta (Oct 9, 2004)

sessionrider said:


> I am very interested in getting a reverb to replace the joplin 4 post I am currently running. The newer joplin has been working well so far but the reverb has so many significant performance advantages that I am looking to make the switch soon. The only thing holding me back at this point is the remote switch. Seems that only right hand remotes are shipping and that a left mount may end up being an aftermarket add on anyway? Also, people are running their RH switches upside down on the left side so the lever doesn't stick up so much. I want to run the remote on the left and it seems that this might be the way to go. Are people running them this way happy with the setup?


That's how I have been running mine over the past few weeks and wouldn't run it any other way. I did have to file down some material on top of the shifter pod to make it flat so the remote could slide all the way in under the bar and over the shifter pod to make the remote clamp as outboard as possible (flush against shifter clamp). Works like a dream like this and this is how I have always ran my remotes (right side remotes inverted and ran on the left under the bars) so the remote is more inline with my front der. shifter and intuitive like shifting gears.


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## dvo1 (May 28, 2006)

I got mine installed last night the travel is about perfect, it is completely in the frame for my full extension so I would need a shorter frame to have anything more.

Line was easy to cut, sure would have been nice if sram gave any real directions with it.

Still need some fine tuning of the line routing, might work that out tonight.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

jgusta said:


> Except this post doesn't click to confirm adjusting like my beloved 4" GD post did and is much slower. I needed at least a 5" adj. post so went with the Reverb. Knowing what I know now, I should of probably just got the 5" classic GD post in a 31.6mm direct from GD.


If your post is slow, please see the BMJ's instructions in the 1st post for a remedy. Have you tried those steps? It's actually a very simple fix. The post is much faster (more than fast enough for me) once these steps are performed.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

dvo1 said:


> I got mine installed last night the travel is about perfect, it is completely in the frame for my full extension so I would need a shorter frame to have anything more.
> 
> Line was easy to cut, sure would have been nice if sram gave any real directions with it.
> 
> Still need some fine tuning of the line routing, might work that out tonight.


Yeah, that's why I created this thread and posted those instructions. Some good detective work by some of our forum members unearthed them on the RockShox website (it's the same hydraulic remote as some of the higher end forks). They really need those in the box. Not sure how they dropped the ball on something so obvious.

Ah well, at least it is even easier than shortening a hydraulic brake line. It really was super simple, and I like that there were no barbs/olives to worry about buying/finding/dropping/losing/getting eaten by dogs. 

I'm glad my frame came with the cable routing for the adjustable seatpost. I like that more manufacturers are starting to do this standard and even spec adjustable seatposts on some bikes. I can't wait till they start speccing Reverbs on complete bikes instead of Joplins. I think every modern frame needs the seatpost cable routing now. I really think you'll see more and more (except with the weight weenie crowd) now that the adjustable seatpost has gone through most of its growing pains. A post like the Reverb is exactly what I've been looking for and why I've waiting to jump on the bandwagon until now.

Nice 25th anniversary 575 BTW. :thumbsup: 
What pedals are those? They look super thin. Those teal pedals and chainring look pretty awesome on that build. Nice work.


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## ziscwg (May 18, 2007)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Yeah, that's why I created this thread and posted those instructions. Some good detective work by some of our forum members unearthed them on the RockShox website (it's the same hydraulic remote as some of the higher end forks). They really need those in the box. Not sure how they dropped the ball on something so obvious.
> 
> Ah well, at least it is even easier than shortening a hydraulic brake line. It really was super simple, and I like that there were no barbs/olives to worry about buying/finding/dropping/losing/getting eaten by dogs.
> 
> ...


Cannondale Jekyll one and ultimate have them standard. I'm not sure you can get either one of them yet as they are 2011 models. I'm not a fan of those CB wheels, but the adj seatpost is nice


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## erosive (May 15, 2009)

I'm lovin my new reverb, especially how it doesn't punch me in the grundle like my gravity dropper did.
I was stoked that bleeding ,cutting line, and installing went breezy.
So... how would I go about regreasing my reverb?
Which grease would go where?


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

*Using a Bike Stand with a Reverb*

I haven't wanted to clamp to the telescoping part of the seat post; When I need to put the bike on a stand I push the seatpost all the way down and then raise the stem to the _minimum insertion point_ and clamp to it. Otherwise, to do a quick drive train check, I'll suspend the bike on the stand by the seat.

Otherwise, I've been leaning my bike against everything; and had it fall over a couple of times while I was messing with it (e.g, putting air in the tires).

This morning, I figured out a better way, which will allow me to do _some_ of the maintenance on the bike without clamping by the seat post;

*Hold it by the handlebar...* Just leave the tires in contact with the ground and it's actually quite stable*.*

Edited in response to BaeckerX1 (below); Link to a better picture of work space: https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1309/5138374292_e3c5cce39e_b.jpg


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Nice workspace MarkHL. I'm jealous.


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## crips (Jan 9, 2007)

Does anyone come from a KS950r? I'am looking into one of this two.

Thx


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## cskolnick (Nov 23, 2007)

Am i missing something with regards to the speed dial adjustment? If i turn to full slow, or even close to it, the post will not go down. If i put the post down (by keeping it at full fast initially), then dial in to full slow it will not return. It will start to make it ways back up if i hold the button as i dial back to fast.
What gives?
Given what i have experienced it seem to render the dial pretty much useless.
My post originally had air in the system and had to be bled (was sent to SRAM although had i k own this was what was going on i would done it myself) and i was hoping that wopuld fix this.
On a side note...Anyone have a RIGHT (drive) side lever they would want to trade for my left side?
I am no longer running a front der and would like to mount the lever upside down near my left grip.


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## DWill (Aug 24, 2010)

MarkHL said:


> I haven't wanted to clamp to the telescoping part of the seat post; When I need to put the bike on a stand I push the seatpost all the way down and then raise the stem to the _minimum insertion point_ and clamp to it. Otherwise, to do a quick drive train check, I'll suspend the bike on the stand by the seat.
> 
> Otherwise, I've been leaning my bike against everything; and had it fall over a couple of times while I was messing with it (e.g, putting air in the tires).
> 
> ...


Since I put my KSi950r on my bike. I turned the head of my stand and clamp on to the top tube.

I'm new at this so is clamping the TT a bad idea for some reason. 
I have a Trance X and soon a Giant Glory will be in mine as well.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

DWill said:


> Since I put my KSi950r on my bike. I turned the head of my stand and clamp on to the top tube.
> 
> I'm new at this so is clamping the TT a bad idea for some reason.
> I have a Trance X and soon a Giant Glory will be in mine as well.


It's not a good idea to clamp the TT. Most manufactures would only recommend seat post clamping.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

cskolnick said:


> Am i missing something with regards to the speed dial adjustment? If i turn to full slow, or even close to it, the post will not go down. If i put the post down (by keeping it at full fast initially), then dial in to full slow it will not return. It will start to make it ways back up if i hold the button as i dial back to fast.
> What gives?
> Given what i have experienced it seem to render the dial pretty much useless.
> My post originally had air in the system and had to be bled (was sent to SRAM although had i k own this was what was going on i would done it myself) and i was hoping that wopuld fix this.
> ...


Did you read the first post in the thread? Turn your remote all the way to full slow, top it off with oil with the included syringe. That should speed things up. Full slow though is always going to be PAINFULLY slow, but it should still move. Mine was super slow out of the box, until I shortened my line.

I really think they need to put it in the manual that you need to bleed it on the full slow setting to get a usable post. BMJ saved me the trial and error on that one or I would have been beating my head against the wall for a little while till I figured that out.


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## jgusta (Oct 9, 2004)

*Attn SPAM: Reverb for sale*

http://classifieds.mtbr.com/showproduct.php?product=57018&cat=18


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

That's a shame. Mine was doing the same with the rocker on my WFO. I put a 6" piece of rubber fuel line over mine with zip ties where they contact not only to protect the hose from damage but also to fatten it up so the rocker will push it aside rather than eat it.

I will say, the line can be a little ornary with what it does under compression.


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## jgusta (Oct 9, 2004)

BMJ said:


> That's a shame. Mine was doing the same with the rocker on my WFO. I put a 6" piece of rubber fuel line over mine with zip ties where they contact not only to protect the hose from damage but also to fatten it up so the rocker will push it aside rather than eat it.
> 
> I will say, the line can be a little ornary with what it does under compression.


Good suggestion, but unfortunately it is not soley cause the cable/rocker interference that I have decided to sell it. It is also cause I usually end up having to manually adjust my seatpost some, everytime I go down beyond the 5" adjustment for climbing to full-on descend mode due to slacker ST angles on my bike. An infinitement 6" adj post would be the "shizz" for my bike and riding style at least (longish, steep ass climbs to railer descents). An adj. seatpost is a necessity for general trail riding with mixed terrain though.


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## highrustler (Jul 27, 2004)

Just received this from SRAM tech support. This will be on their website within a week or so:

Reverb *Bleed* Instructions:

1) turn speed dial to full slow (full CCW) 
2) fill a syringe about ¼ full of 2.5 wt oil
3) connect syringe to remote bleed port
4) while pulling vacuum with syringe, push remote button in
5) apply positive pressure on syringe, remote button should come all the way out
6) repeat steps 4 and 5 10 times or until no more air is being pulled out
7) finish procedure with a push, remove syringe and install bleed screw
8) adjust speed dial to preferred setting

Reverb *Hose Shortening* Instructions:

1) turn speed dial to full slow (full CCW) 
2) cut hose at remote end, not post end
3) remove extra hose from remote (grab hose with pliers, smack pliers with hammer or cut with utility knife)
4) cut hose to length, press hose onto barb while twisting until fully seated
5) adjust speed dial to preferred setting
6) should not need to bleed remote if you follow these instructions


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## highrustler (Jul 27, 2004)

FYI - I just installed my Reverb. There was so much air in the line I ended up bleeding using a syringe at both ends. Now, the action is fast & smoove. I would recommend this to anyone, it's so easy to do and why not ensure that you are getting full performance.


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## Tuff Gong (May 8, 2009)

Just received my Reverb from UC the other day and as someone who's never used an adjustable seatpost before, all I can say is......Niiiiiice:thumbsup: I've only been riding for about a year and a half and having the ability to change the height on the fly even helps out a lame rider like me. The price might be hard to swallow at first but I think it's worth having one.

As for my experience with the Reverb, so far so good. Purchased the 31.6MM x 380MM post and out of the box, the unit needed a quick bleed as described by BMJ, (thanks guys! Having read your posts beforehand, I wasn't so concerned when I couldn't fully compress it at first).

Having read some of the difficulties with the routing of the hydraulic line upon compressing the seat, I had an idea about allowing the tubing to move forward towards the front of the bike. Through several trial and errors, I stumbled upon this present setup and it's been working great so far.






As you can see in the photos and videos, I routed the line along the left side of the TT and used two of the cable couplers that comes with the Reverb to route the tubing along the front derailleur cable and through the shock mount. Note, the coupler piece slides easily on both the Reverb tubing and FD cables.

I wrapped a piece of ducktape on the RD cable towards the seat tube as the coupler likes to move forward upon compression, this keeps it close to the bend and prevents the Reverb tubing from bowing out and away from the frame during compression.


















The front coupler simply keeps the cables tidy. You can see it stays with the Reverb cable and slides on the RD cable in the video.









Don't laugh but since the tubing seems to move pretty consistently forward, I added a piece of tape as a "gauge" or "Meter" that gives me an idea where the post is. Yes, its probably silly as your butt will be the first and foremost thing to tell you where your post is positioned but I'm enjoying the ability to take a glance to quickly find my 'preset' favorite postion.(picture shows full extension. One of my fav in between height is when the blue tape just reaches the Lefty bracket. Full Compression shows up on the front edge of the bracket)










I'll have to keep an eye out if there are any rubbing/chafing issues on the cable as well but it seems like it'll be okay so far. Before I received and mounted the Reverb, I was worried about the pull of the cable towards the front of the bike with this silly idea and had thought of ways to utilize a spring or rubber band on the cable(pulling slightly forward on the cable). Luckily, I have had no need for any assistance in having the cable move forward as it seems the cable is actually being 'pushed' forward.

As for mounting the remote, I wish I could mount the right side lever on the bottom of the left side for better crash survivability but with the brake lever, FD shifter and the rather quick to thicken handlebars, it just isn't going to happen. For the time being, I mounted my Incredibell right next to the remote to offer whatever protection it can provide. Doubt it'll help much on a hard impact that hits 'just right' but I could at least flip the bike over and not worry about resting it on the remote.









PS, be carefull when you cut the line I had to perform a full bleed using both syringes as I baptized myself and the dining room with suspension oil when I cut the tubing and forgot to anticipate the curled tension Take it from someone who's never bled anything on a bicycle, it's a piece of cake. Believe me, cleaning up the line of oil across my dining room was a lot more difficult.

As others have mentioned, only time will tell how the Reverb performs reliability wise but I'm pretty happy with my purchase.

A tip that you all probably know. I'm not sure of the availability of the unit but if your looking to pick one up and can't find it, I simply signed up for Universal Cycle's "back in stock" notices on the post and simply purchased it 3 hours after receiving the email msg using the 15% discount. As others have mentioned, make sure to add another small item to push the total over $300 to qualify for the 15% discount.

Thanks!

-Chris


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## 08350 (Aug 4, 2010)

*pic*

would you mind posting a pic of your full bike, need to see how it looks with the reverb/silver part set closest to the seat tube clamp  
thanks


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

jgusta, I appreciate your desire to sell your Reverb, but do you really need 2 spam posts in this thread? This is meant to be an informational thread. It would be nice for people not to have to dig through spam posts. Buy an ad and sell in the classifieds. Seriously.


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## jgusta (Oct 9, 2004)

Sorry to disturb your precious informative thread under the general title of RS Reverb. I just wanted to correct that it is a 30.9 instead of a 31.6 like I stated previously since I have already received a couple of PM's about interest if it was a 31.6 due to my error.

That's all and chill out, man. I plan to pay and classify with mtbr once I am not at work, not riding and can clean the post and take and upload pics. Sorry if I wasted anybody's time with this.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Why not just edit your original post? I just thought it odd you had to post it twice. There was a second post there with the same information as the first (it's gone now apparently). I didn't care about the first one. 

No need to get all bent man. I'm chill, are you? Anyway, good luck selling yours. Sorry it didn't work out. I'm surprised you couldn't make it work on the Rune. Some people have come up with some pretty creative cable routing schemes.


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## jgusta (Oct 9, 2004)

No prob, my bad, didn't realize I could post an add without pics. Posted again cause I was chapped I stated it was a 31.6, not a 30.9 by my error and wanted to give others a "head's up" if interested, since a lot of places are out or don't carry most sizes.

http://classifieds.mtbr.com/showproduct.php?product=57018&cat=18


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

highrustler said:


> Reverb *Bleed* Instructions....


Great information, I'd already bled mine once, but this technique really made a difference.

A previous post mentioned putting the syringe at the post bleed screw; this time I bled from the actuator. Much easier at this location to put a suction on the syringe, hold it with one hand and then push the actuator with the other. It took about 3-4 times before the bubbles stopping coming out. I immediately knew something had changed when my seat post would now actuate in the full CCW (slow) position. In the full fast (CW) position the rise rate has probably doubled in speed. Apart from the speed, I now have better modulation control over the rise rate based on how far I push in the button. Thanx for the post.


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## ScottW (Jan 16, 2004)

Received 2 Reverbs yesterday, one for me and one for my wife. Have installed one, needed to bleed the remote line but after that it's working great. I'm very pleased with the initial quality and ease of adjustment. As long as it holds up I think this will be money well spent.


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## Evan55 (Jul 23, 2009)

outside outfitters has them for $236 shipped. (supposedly) in stock.

https://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-17088-rock-shox-reverb-remote-adjustable-seatpost.aspx

just ordered mine, will see how it compares to my kind shock.
hopefully I get the right hand remote so I can mount it on the left side under the bar where my shifters used to be


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Totally beautiful post. If anyone owns one of these and goes to a different brand they need a slapping!


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Tuff Gong... First time I had a chance to view your pictures and video because my work blocks image sites and my main home computer was down with a failed HDD (installed a new Patriot 120GB SSD with SandForce for the boot drive and OMFG is it fast). 

Anyway, I like how you got your cable to route and move toward the front. Very clever. You don't have any cable loop to worry about. I also think the little piece of tape as an indicator is a nice touch.  Good work.


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## rael (Jul 7, 2010)

highrustler said:


> Just received this from SRAM tech support. This will be on their website within a week or so:
> 
> Reverb *Bleed* Instructions:
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip! Should have came in the instructions with the post.

I got mine (30.9, 380mm) Wednesday afternoon from the LBS (they ordered for me, 15% off list, which I think is fair), riding that evening! Worked out of the box, but only on the fast setting.

Just bled now, first time bleeding anything besides auto brakes, went smoothly thanks to these instructions. Full adjustment range from fast to slow after bleeding.

My first adjustable post, and was using it all the time Wednesday evening on some new unfamiliar single track, at night with lights. Will go for a ride on my home trail tomorrow, looking forward to lowering on the tech sections for better balance and speed.

One issue for me - got it in my frame all the way to the nut, and is a bit too high at full extension. I just adjust to maybe 1/2 inch lower, and all is good. Very EZ to do with the remote. From other posts, looks like no way around this.

I rate 5 stars at this point, we'll see how it holds up after a few more rides!

dave
08 575


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## unclekittykiller (Mar 1, 2006)

*got mine to fit*

using a duo of formula oro brakes and sram xo shifters i was able to get my rh remote to fit under the bars on the left side. i'm not sure how much the brakes really matter for clearance but the xo shifters have an adjustable position lever that allows you to move it slightly to not interfere with the remote. i like having my shifters angled up as well which seem to give my thumbs better leverage, and creates an open area between the bars and shifter in which to fit the remote. This setup tucks everything away nicely while providing what i feel to be a better ergonomic location.


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## supercusty (Nov 17, 2008)

hate to burst everyones bubble but I have developed some play in my post. The actual post (not the seat or clamp ) have some movement after about 3 weeks of use. even my joplins never did that. I still think this is a superior post to the others, but there is def. something wrong with it.  My wife's seems to be working ok, probably my clumsy freeride light riding style. I did land shitily on a gap the other day and came down on the seat pretty hard.


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## unclekittykiller (Mar 1, 2006)

i'm don't know if i'd consider that bursting everyone's bubble, it just sounds like you may have managed to break yours.


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## Hydesg (Jul 4, 2010)

supercusty said:


> hate to burst everyones bubble but I have developed some play in my post. The actual post (not the seat or clamp ) have some movement after about 3 weeks of use. even my joplins never did that. I still think this is a superior post to the others, but there is def. something wrong with it.  My wife's seems to be working ok, probably my clumsy freeride light riding style. I did land shitily on a gap the other day and came down on the seat pretty hard.


may i ask, how heavy do you weigh?


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## supercusty (Nov 17, 2008)

180 lbs I ride an lt carbon it still works fine there is just a small amour of play in the post now


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

unclekittykiller said:


> i'm don't know if i'd consider that bursting everyone's bubble, it just sounds like you may have managed to break yours.


yeah sounds like you just tweaked something.


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## roel (May 24, 2005)

Is there a model with an offset. Im using a laid/set back Tompson seatpost and if i will replace it with a "straight" , not set back one, it will feel ackward (im use to a laid back seatpost)


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## highaltitude (Aug 21, 2008)

I've snapped something inside the remote lever, after 2 mins of use. Yes, I read the instructions, and angled the lever down so that it wouldn't stick out above the level of the bars. Turned the bike upside down, and there was an audible cracking sound. Now the remote lever has no resistance, and no longer works, pulling it in or out, it sounds like fluid/air are mixing. Anyone have any idea what has snapped, the piston head perhaps, and if spares are available.

The lever itself seems really flimsy, compared to say a shifter or brake lever. I cant see how it would ever survive a crash.


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## highaltitude (Aug 21, 2008)

I took apart the lever, and as I suspected the piston head has broken off from the shaft which connects it to the button. The head is stuck inside the bore, can't see any way to get it out. Perhaps connecting it to a brake lever and some hose to put back pressure in would push the piston out...


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## Tuff Gong (May 8, 2009)

highaltitude said:


> I took apart the lever, and as I suspected the piston head has broken off from the shaft which connects it to the button. The head is stuck inside the bore, can't see any way to get it out. Perhaps connecting it to a brake lever and some hose to put back pressure in would push the piston out...


Or tap into the bleed port with the syringe and give it a push?:???: Make sure you don't apply such pressure while your in your dining room


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## Tuff Gong (May 8, 2009)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Tuff Gong... First time I had a chance to view your pictures and video because my work blocks image sites and my main home computer was down with a failed HDD (installed a new Patriot 120GB SSD with SandForce for the boot drive and OMFG is it fast).
> 
> Anyway, I like how you got your cable to route and move toward the front. Very clever. You don't have any cable loop to worry about. I also think the little piece of tape as an indicator is a nice touch.  Good work.


Thanks man I've been really enjoying this 'adjustable post' thing so far. Just like with suspensions, I am forever spoiled.

It's only been a week but it's been good. I'm not sure if I'll keep the present remote position but I seem to regularly use the little 'indicator' tape on the tubing  I would have never thought of 'wanting' the remote closer to my thumb but I seem to adjust my height quite often.

Hmm, I might have a poke at trying UncleKitty's method but I have a feeling it won't work with X & Juicy Sevens.


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

are you folks running this shock using friction paste? If so, did it come with it?


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## Hydesg (Jul 4, 2010)

highrustler said:


> FYI - I just installed my Reverb. There was so much air in the line I ended up bleeding using a syringe at both ends. Now, the action is fast & smoove. I would recommend this to anyone, it's so easy to do and why not ensure that you are getting full performance.


how do you bleed using two syringes? I see that there is only one bleeding port


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## Hydesg (Jul 4, 2010)

it now doesnt decompress after i rebleed, 
There seem to be a never ending strand of bubbles coming out from the cable,.


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## highaltitude (Aug 21, 2008)

Tuff Gong said:


> Or tap into the bleed port with the syringe and give it a push?:???: Make sure you don't apply such pressure while your in your dining room


Thanks a lot, this was easy and obvious really. This is what the insides look like:


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## Tuff Gong (May 8, 2009)

Hydesg said:


> how do you bleed using two syringes? I see that there is only one bleeding port


Hyde, the second port is on the side of the post at the top. I believe you hook up both syringes(filled with some oil) into there respective bleed ports, remote&seatpost, and take turns pushing one syringe into one another. I believe the idea is to push airless fluid from one syringe into the tubing as it pushes the oil and whatever air inside to the other syringe and you repeat the process back and forth till you see no more air bubbles(keep syringes upright). Make sure your speed adjustment is twisted out(slow) on the remote when you bleed it and def have a rag handy.


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## Tuff Gong (May 8, 2009)

highaltitude said:


> Thanks a lot, this was easy and obvious really. This is what the insides look like:


Crap, what are the chances of being able to source that replacement plunger? There is obviously a strong reason RS has an illustration not to place the bike upside down in case it rests on the plunger but that just further reinforces concerns over the remotes weakness in the event of a crash

I need to def mount the remote on the bottom somehow....:bluefrown:

Good luck with getting your post back in service High.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Tuff Gong said:


> I need to def mount the remote on the bottom somehow....


Agreed. Unclekittykillers pics are giving me hope. For the number of times I use the front derailleur, I think I'm willing to dremel off half of the shift lever if it means tucking the remote underneath.

Of course, this is all assuming I can guarantee getting a right hand remote when I order the post. Has anyone received a left hand remote or is it coming only with the RH?


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## unclekittykiller (Mar 1, 2006)

i actually ordered a lh remote from my lbs and i got the rh version. seems like most are getting the rh. car nut, I hardly use my fd as well, only on real steep climbs, otherwise i stand up and mash. my lh shifter isn't exactly where i like it anymore, but i'll use the reverb remote more than the fd anyhow, so a little bit of shifter displacement doesn't bother me when i have the remote right where it like it. 

i would imagine that placing the remote under the bars would be even easier if used in conjunction with some avid xx or xo brakes using the remote as the lever clamp (upside down). i would think it would leave more room on the bars to place the shifters wherever you like.


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## unclekittykiller (Mar 1, 2006)

highaltitude said:


> Thanks a lot, this was easy and obvious really. This is what the insides look like:


any idea what the purpose of that thing that looks like a staple is? i noticed it on my remote but couldn't figure out it's purpose. i can only imagine it holds something together, but what?


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## Tuff Gong (May 8, 2009)

unclekittykiller said:


> any idea what the purpose of that thing that looks like a staple is? i noticed it my remote but couldn't figure out it's purpose. i can only imagine it holds something together, but what?


I'd guess it secures the remote body side of the rubber boot You could see the indent it left on the boot....if I'm even close to being correct.

edit:Wait a minute? Does it keep the plunger from coming completely out of the body? Does it secure both the plunger and the boot to the body?

Well, I just tried working the RH remote on the left side with my X7 shifter and Juicy 7 levers. I'm not too crazy about the shifters position but if I grind away the corner of the downshift lever, I could swing the shifter closer down to normal.

I'll have a couple of rides before I attempt to grind away...


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

mountaindavis said:


> are you folks running this shock using friction paste? If so, did it come with it?


The friction paste is not included with the Reverb.

I'm using _carbon installation compound_. I suspect the necessity of the paste is directly related to how snug the _post to seat tube fit_ is on your bike.

I did not originally use the paste and did not encounter any slippage when clamped well under the max torque. The paste just allows me the option of using a bit less torque.

This is the stuff I sourced: 
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CM407B09-Fsa+Carbon+Seatpost+Installation+Compoun.aspx


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## unclekittykiller (Mar 1, 2006)

Tuff Gong said:


> I'd guess it secures the remote body side of the rubber boot You could see the indent it left on the boot....if I'm even close to being correct.
> 
> edit:Wait a minute? Does it keep the plunger from coming completely out of the body? Does it secure both the plunger and the boot to the body?
> 
> ...


your guess about the staple sounds pretty logical, i wouldn't doubt if thats correct.

your shifter looks to be almost too uncomfortable tweaked that much..do you think it would work better if you put the shifter to the left of the brake lever and angled the remote more forward?


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## in the trees (Mar 24, 2005)

Tuff Gong said:


> Crap, what are the chances of being able to source that replacement plunger?


Here - http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=37132


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

highaltitude said:


> Thanks a lot, this was easy and obvious really. This is what the insides look like:


highaltitude;

tough luck...

Let us know what path you took (contact vendor, contact Rockshox) to get the new part...

Here's a list of the part numbers (sourced from _Spare Parts List_ on Rockshox website) http://www.sram.com/en/service/rockshox/view.php?catID=3&subcatID=1

Part numbers for the remote start on page 6, I believe the XLoc actuator is detailed on page 28; piece #18 (p/n 11.4315.014.020).


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## highaltitude (Aug 21, 2008)

Tuff Gong said:


> Crap, what are the chances of being able to source that replacement plunger?


I found this as a source for replacement parts for the lever, check pic 7. I was debating whether to replace the whole thing for $65 or just the piston kit for $31. After I managed to remove the broken piston head, I just went for the cheaper option.

http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-15805-rock-shox-xloc-remote-lever-kit-parts.aspx

I didn't see much point in contacting Sram, and I bought the post from overseas - and there's zero chance the local importer will have spares.



Tuff Gong said:


> I'd guess it secures the remote body side of the rubber boot You could see the indent it left on the boot....if I'm even close to being correct.
> 
> edit:Wait a minute? Does it keep the plunger from coming completely out of the body? Does it secure both the plunger and the boot to the body?


The little staple locks the hard plastic end of the rubber boot in place, there are little indents, I also seem to have cracked this part. When the lever is extended, the piston head must butt up against the plastic end of the boot.


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

*XLoc Piston Source*



highaltitude said:


> I found this as a source for replacement parts for the lever, check pic 7.
> 
> http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-15805-rock-shox-xloc-remote-lever-kit-parts.aspx


The silver piece (circled in red) seems a bit different from the parts you took apart, however since the piston is all you need, you should be set. Thanks for the information.

Here's an addtional source: http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=37132


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## MartinsMental (Dec 12, 2005)

highrustler said:


> Just received this from SRAM tech support. This will be on their website within a week or so


Official Reverb Bleed instructions are up. :thumbsup:

http://www.sram.com/en/service/rockshox/view.php?catID=3&subcatID=1


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## highaltitude (Aug 21, 2008)

MarkHL said:


> The silver piece (circled in red) seems a bit different from the parts you took apart, however since the piston is all you need, you should be set. Thanks for the information.
> 
> Here's an addtional source: http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=37132


Good point, I hadn't noticed that part. It looks like a spacer, so hopefully it will be easy to remove by taking off the button and the boot.


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

You might need to check that part on Universals website as a viable replacement. The part number doesn't match the Reverb part number. All the pics I've seen of the X-Loc remote for the forks look like a shorter throw than the Reverb. Maybe the silver bushing is just a travel limiter.

Hmmmm.


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

Looking at the SRAM's instructions for bleeding, it shows clamping the bike in a stand using the lower part of the seatpost (not the part that extends up) which is good as I was concerned how I was going to clamp my bike once my seatpost arrives (tomorrow! Although we are getting snow right now :-( ). I thought I read in this post that we couldn't clamp it at all, but they clearly show it is alright to do so...


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

To add to the thread.... My Reverb wasn't working out of the box. Didn't lower or rise. First, I bled it at the remote with one syringe. Finally it went down, but not up. Stuck a second syringe in the seatpost bleed hole and went from syringe to syringe. Now the Reverb works perfectly. Lots of bubbles in there prevented from working at all. Very smooth action now. Thanks all for sharing your experience here. If it wasn't for this thread, I'd have returned the seatpost thinking it was defective.


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## spokeywheeler (Dec 1, 2006)

I am trying to see if I can run a RH remote on the left side of my bars, with a front shifter (xtr), possibly by mounting it well inboard of the shifter. Could someone currently running a Reverb post the distance from the handlebar to the outside of the remote body. Aka. how much free space needed perpendicular to the bar to clear the remote? That would be awesome. Thanks!


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## Jamie_MTB (Nov 18, 2004)

Does anybody know how the sram 2011 x0 brake attaches to the reverb lever?


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## unclekittykiller (Mar 1, 2006)

toons101 said:


> Does anybody know how the sram 2011 x0 brake attaches to the reverb lever?


you can use the reverb remote in place of the lever clamp.


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## ShredArpeggioMan (Aug 28, 2008)

Huck Pitueee said:


> Thanks.I'm gonna call them this morning.


Check out Tree Fort Bikes. They are running a sale until 11-19 for $235 and free shipping  I just ordered mine. Plenty in stock. Get in there and get one for cheap 

380mm:
http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222365378/81/Rock-Shox-Reverb-125mm-Adjustable.html

420mm:
http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222365381/81/Rock-Shox-Reverb-125mm-Adjustable.html


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## Evan55 (Jul 23, 2009)

got my reverb today. first impression is dissapointing.

It is binding half way through the travel and not coming all the way up. hopefully it will break in and be more smooth. I also plan to bleed it.

play in the seat is a hair more than my 6 month old kindshock. not enough to detect while riding and certainly lots less than the joplin.

by far my biggest gripe is that using the right remote underbars on the left bar really doesnt work very well, even with no shifter on that side. Im using XT brakes mounted inboard for 1 finger braking and the lever is too close to the grips (interferes and bangs your thumb) if mounted outside the brakes and waaay too far away if mounted inside the brakes. maybe it works better if you have the angled MC of the avids...... (but no way im switching to those crappy brakes)

syringes, hydro fluid and some of the cable snaps are nice bonuses. (cable snaps only work if you have another cable to clip it to though)


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

Evan, once you bleed it the action will smooth and perfect. It wasn't even working in my case until a serious bleed. It does have more play than I'd wish, though. That's the only issue I have so far. But it's very small play....


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## hani1 (Sep 12, 2008)

*Concern about full extention length*

So a fully extended reverb may be about 1/4 to 1/2 in too long for me. Is this a major concern? Has any one else had this problem?


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## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

Evan55 said:


> It is binding half way through the travel and not coming all the way up.


That is a classic symptom of the seatpost collar being too snug. Try to loosen it up by just a hair at at time until you get it to work smoothly. If you need to loosen it so much that the post ends up slipping on rides, well... that's SRAM's bad for making the outer wall so thin on the Reverb.


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

hani1 said:


> So a fully extended reverb may be about 1/4 to 1/2 in too long for me. Is this a major concern? Has any one else had this problem?


Probably a good thing; with the post fully extended, the telescoping section will not have as much support from the tube and is more vulnerable to damage due external forces placed on it.

My personal opinion is that prolonged riding with it fully extended will hasten wear on the tight tolerances due to the additional leverage and reduced support between the mating surfaces. 
My reason for this line of thinking is, I can feel a slight fore and aft play in the seat tube with it fully extended that I cannot detect in any other inserted range.

After a bit of practice, adjusting the post to your preferred "top" height will be no harder than any other seat height adjustment.


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

MarkHL said:


> Probably a good thing; with the post fully extended, the telescoping section will not have as much support from the tube and is more vulnerable to damage due external forces placed on it.
> 
> My personal opinion is that prolonged riding with it fully extended will hasten wear on the tight tolerances due to the additional leverage and reduced support between the mating surfaces.
> My reason for this line of thinking is, I can feel a slight fore and aft play in the seat tube with it fully extended that I cannot detect in any other inserted range.
> ...


Mark, I've been thinking along those lines, too. But it is annoying to have to find that right height. It's hard to get an accurate position to 3/4 of an inch, especially when riding on bumpy trails. First I had it set up so it never was fully extended, but then it was getting on my nerves.....


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

Has anyone been brave enough to dis-assemble their post yet?  

Would it be possible to add a spacer to the internals to restrict the upward travel (similar to the spacers in Reba for example)? If so, that would be an awesome way to restrict it to that last 1/2 - 1/4 inch...


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## unclekittykiller (Mar 1, 2006)

Isildur said:


> Would it be possible to add a spacer to the internals to restrict the upward travel (similar to the spacers in Reba for example)? If so, that would be an awesome way to restrict it to that last 1/2 - 1/4 inch...


wondering if this would be something that Push may be able to offer since they apparently will be doing mods on the Reverb...


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

Hmmm, I would be interested to hear the results of this, as I'm one of the people who will need something like this offered. I would prefer to not have to worry about max seat height, and just have the max extension the correct height right away...


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

My buddy is running my old i900 post on his Specialized with an interupted seat tube design. He can't put the post down into the frame far enough to avoid this problem so he installed a cable tether to the post to stop it at only 3.5" instead of the full 5". Seems to be working so far. Might be a solution for you as well.


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## awesome51 (Mar 7, 2009)

Hey guys, coming from my Joplin(no issues btw great post!) does this post really keep a certain position no matter what? For example, my joplin, if it was lowered, would rise up if you pulled on the seat. Will the Reverb do the same thing? Is it soooo much better that i have to have it?


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

Once properly bled, the Reverb definitely stays in place. (At least mine.)


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

You can yank it up if you lift the bike too quickly but it sucks back down to it's original position. The great thing is that it doesn't need to cycled to reset the air from the oil.


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

BMJ said:


> You can yank it up if you lift the bike too quickly but it sucks back down to it's original position. The great thing is that it doesn't need to cycled to reset the air from the oil.


Mine only did that when there was air in the line. I suspect yours still has air in it, and that's what's causing this. After a good 2 syringe bleed, there is no up or down motion at all on mine.


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## highaltitude (Aug 21, 2008)

Someone PM'd me with the same problem I had, the flimsy lever snapped in a crash. Here's how to get the xloc lever apart:

1) Undo the clamp bolt and remove xloc lever from bars (but leave the hydro line attached)
2) Underneath the lever is a steel staple. Gently lever this out with a flat blade screwdriver. The remains of piston assembly (piston/boot/button) will now pull out of the lever body, but if you snapped the piston head off like I did, it will still be stuck inside.
3) Take a bleed syringe and fill with a little fluid, attach to the bleed valve on the xloc. Hold the lever wrapped in a rag in one hand, and apply some pressure on the syringe with the other hand. The broken piston head should pop out.

My replacement piston is still in the mail, I'll post on replacing it when the thing arrives.


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## Evan55 (Jul 23, 2009)

well, unfortunately bleeding mine at the lever didnt work. it doesnt come up or go down.

I need to try using the 2 syringe bleed procedure. Is it just pushing fluid from 1 syringe to the other?


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

Evan, when I did a single syringe I had the same issue; the post stopped working completely. I hooked a syringe on each end with some fluid in them, and basically did the back and forth from syringe to syringe. There was a lot of air left in there. Finally when no a bubble remained, I was set. Don't forget to use the directions, where you are supposed to press on the lever, the push the syringes in (and repeat many times). Good luck.


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## dubinjs (Nov 6, 2010)

*need HELP with bleeding my Reverb*

I am having a hell of a time gettting my Reverb set up. I have tried bleeding this thing forever now. It seems like the fluid isnt even going in. should the saringe empty out? If so, it definately isnt. I cant even get the post to go down at all. I depress the remote and put tons of pressure down on the seat and nothing. I am getting very aggrivated. I have a big ride in the morning and really want to get this working. how do you do this two saringe bleed there is talk of? :madman: :madman:


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

dubinjs, did you read the instructions that came with the Reverb? Or what was written here in this thread? The bleeding has more to do with air bubble removal that injecting more fluids. I knew nothing about bleeding a seatpost or anything, but from reading this thread and the manual I had no issues.


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## dubinjs (Nov 6, 2010)

Yes. Thats why I cant figure out why its not working. All the air seems to be out and there is zero movement in the post at all. I followed the instructions that came with it to the T. I just disconnected the line from the seat end and pumped fluid through from the remote end and it was full of fluid. absolutely no air. I then reconected it and bled whatever may have gottten into the line from that. Still, Zero movement in the post.


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

Are you also pumping the lever between bleeds?


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## dubinjs (Nov 6, 2010)

Yes. I finally got it. Thanks to one of the other post that stated where the other bleed hole was on the stem. I used the two syringes and there must if been trapped air in the post itself that wasn't showing itself before. All is good and finished. Thanks! Looking forward to tryin it out in the morning.:thumbsup:


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

dubinjs said:


> Yes. I finally got it. Thanks to one of the other post that stated where the other bleed hole was on the stem. I used the two syringes and there must if been trapped air in the post itself that wasn't showing itself before. All is good and finished. Thanks! Looking forward to tryin it out in the morning.:thumbsup:


Some people's kids! :madman:


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## dubinjs (Nov 6, 2010)

What's that supposed to mean?


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## Rivet (Sep 3, 2004)

Wow, can't believe how many people have to bleed theirs. Mine worked perfect right out of the box and after shortening the line twice without re-bleeding it still worked perfect?


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

q2xltrgt said:


> Some people's kids! :madman:


I think that's supposed to mean you hadn't read the thread carefully, and you weren't using the two syringe method, and that based on your posts that's not the impression you gave, and as a result time was spent trying to help you when in fact you needed to read. 

Anyhow, glad to hear you figured it out and it's working fine now! Enjoy!


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

polymathic said:


> I think that's supposed to mean you hadn't read the thread carefully, and you weren't using the two syringe method, and that based on your posts that's not the impression you gave, and as a result time was spent trying to help you when in fact you needed to read.
> 
> Anyhow, glad to hear you figured it out and it's working fine now! Enjoy!


Precisely. That could not have been written better.

Thanks Polymathic.


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

Mine worked good out of the box, but I bled the remote and doubled the speed to the point I ended up turning the adjuster to slow it down. Love my post. Does have a bit of play, but I don't notice when riding.


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## dubinjs (Nov 6, 2010)

sorry if I inconvenienced any of you. I was reading through the post and followed the incomplete directions that Rockshox prints and sends with the seat. There are a lot of post about this item, but only a couple that actually stated how to use the two syringe method and i found only one that stated where the second screw was. Thanks for the help.
This is how i ended up securing the line without any interference at all. Works great
!







,
https://lh5.ggpht.com/_NM8dyLzbMug/.../jbbyurqDMwU/s512/2010-11-20_20-48-49_522.jpg


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## Jamie_MTB (Nov 18, 2004)

highaltitude said:


> Someone PM'd me with the same problem I had, the flimsy lever snapped in a crash. Here's how to get the xloc lever apart:
> 
> 1) Undo the clamp bolt and remove xloc lever from bars (but leave the hydro line attached)
> 2) Underneath the lever is a steel staple. Gently lever this out with a flat blade screwdriver. The remains of piston assembly (piston/boot/button) will now pull out of the lever body, but if you snapped the piston head off like I did, it will still be stuck inside.
> ...


highaltitude I fell off yesterday and snapped the lever off (also broke a finger!)!

Let me know how you get on.


Reverb


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

Sorry about your finger, Toons. Hope you recover soon. I watched the video of your tumble... how did that happen so soon? Did you hit your front brake or something?


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## Jamie_MTB (Nov 18, 2004)

polymathic said:


> Sorry about your finger, Toons. Hope you recover soon. I watched the video of your tumble... how did that happen so soon? Did you hit your front brake or something?


The front wheel got stuck in a pot hole and I didn't have enough momentum to get over it!

BTW did you laugh? My mates have been ripping the **** out of me


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

I would have laughed had you not broken your finger. But, what made me smile was your cursing all the way down.


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## bhigdon101 (Apr 24, 2010)

where is the cheapest place to get one as of now, wife is going to buy me one for x-mas..... like to find the best deal out there...

thanks for your time...


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## Lev (Oct 12, 2004)

Just got my Reverb woot woot! Planning to install tomorrow. Hoping it goes painlessly. One thing I noticed right out of the box is that when I push the lever in and try to compress the post, it's not budging much. I realize that many folks here have had to re-bleed their posts, but mine's not even moving. Not too concerned right now, since I haven't even put it on. But just thought it was worth mentioning. Maybe this has happened to others?

Anyone else throw one on a Knolly Endorphin? Going to be looking for routing options...


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## Shane_CA (Aug 17, 2008)

Universal Cycles with VIP15 code (buy something else for $5+) = $250.75 with free shipping


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## ScottW (Jan 16, 2004)

Ventanarama (Mtn high cyclery) has them in the classified for $235 shipped. Plus he seems like a good guy, I've bought stuff from him in the past.

http://classifieds.mtbr.com/showproduct.php?product=56808&cat=18


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## 2w4s (Mar 20, 2005)

Loving mine so far, I can't believe I waited this long to get a drop post. I moved my remote to the left side, I had to modify the FD shifter a bit but it makes a big difference.










dremeled FD Shifter










Opposite side










A little trail shot, I used the Reverb a lot more than I thought I would.


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

I got mine all installed used it today for the first time! this thing is bad ass!!!!!

sorry for the crappy cell shots


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## mtb_oz (Sep 25, 2009)

*Zero offset mount*

Just wondering if anybody has used one of these seat posts where their original seat post was an offset style? My bike is a Stump Jumper that comes with an offset seatpost, doesnt look like the Reverb has this option, like the Joplin


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

Mine was an offset post (Rockhopper). Truth is, the offset was a problem for me, and I already had my seat all the way forward. While it's not offset, you still have the ability to change your seat position some.


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## 08350 (Aug 4, 2010)

*spongy feel*

so after 3 weeks of riding the reverb it developed a spongy feel, its now more of a suspension seatpost regardless where it is in its 5 inch travel, dont know what the cause :madmax: i did lift up the saddle while in its down position but it did return to its normal height, so i called rs and spoke to customer service, no problem just let the retailer know and will send a replacement and could do the swap once it arrives to avoid having no seatpost/reverb at all (its amazing once you have an adjustable seatpost that you dont want to ride without it  ) called up pricepoint and kudos to shawn !! swung by pricepoint and he replaced it with a new one (its still less than 30 days) those little service that they do to customers make me want to buy more from them !!

so has anyone experienced this problem?, could it be air getting into the system, if so how??

again kudo to ricky/rockshow and shawn/pricepoint :thumbsup:


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

Did you try bleeding it again after it developed this spongy feel?


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

mountaindavis said:


> Did you try bleeding it again after it developed this spongy feel?


Probably wouldn't help this condition since the hydraulic actuator is external (closed system) to the actual post hydraulics.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

08350 said:


> those little service that they do to customers make me want to buy more from them !!


So you're saying you want to spend more money because they thoroughly serviced you? :skep:

What services did they *do to* you?


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## 08350 (Aug 4, 2010)

*no need for bleed*

did not even try to bleed, post still traveled as fast as originally,

well i'd rather spend my money on a retailer that i know would help me out than someone who just wants a fast buck :thumbsup: btw off topic, the best customer service would belong to REI no doubt !


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## Jerome (Dec 21, 2003)

mtb_oz said:


> Just wondering if anybody has used one of these seat posts where their original seat post was an offset style? My bike is a Stump Jumper that comes with an offset seatpost, doesnt look like the Reverb has this option, like the Joplin


That's why I chose the KSi900 (which has offset). Works wonderfully - loved it so much that I got another one for my other bike... it says something! Anyway if you ride technical trails, I'd say go with the remote - I got the lever ones (for saving a little bit of weight) and things can be a little sketchy when you have to drop the seat very quickly (anticipation is key).


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## Evan55 (Jul 23, 2009)

well, I got a bad one. Even after bleeding the whole thing with 2 syringes it still wont go down. 

Sort of goes down and up on the slowest setting, but suuuper slow on the way up and gets stuck half way through. 

now to deal with RMA / warranty. horray.

I guess I should have just bought another kindshock....


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

Evan55 said:


> well, I got a bad one. Even after bleeding the whole thing with 2 syringes it still wont go down.
> 
> Sort of goes down and up on the slowest setting, but suuuper slow on the way up and gets stuck half way through.
> 
> ...


I had this same problem when i shortened up my cable.. here is what i did i had my buddy keep lightly pushing pushing the syring on on remote side while i put the bleed screw back in to the post side to prevent air getting sucked back in.. after i did the whole push and pull the bubbles out of the post side.. then i finished the bleeding procedure on the remote side and very thing worked great!


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

+1 

That's what I did too. Had my wife helping.... and it was fine after.


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## jwbender (Nov 7, 2009)

My post is new, just installed and completely locked. Will someone repost the link to the double bleed?


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

How much play is normal? When fully extended, my seat can move maybe 1/8"-1/4" fore and aft. This may be normal, I don't know, as it is my first adjustable post. I don't notice it riding and it doesn't really bother me in any tangible way but I would feel a lot better knowing if that is just what adjustable seatposts have or if I should have it looked at. Still quite new. LOVE its functionality...


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

jwbender said:


> My post is new, just installed and completely locked. Will someone repost the link to the double bleed?


http://www.sram.com/en/service/rockshox/view.php?catID=3&subcatID=1

offical bleed directions from Sram

as for the 2 syring bleed its pretty much just like bleeding brakes..

back the speed control on remote to the slowest setting, attach your bleeding syring to the bleed port on the post found on the right side of the post (make sure syring has small amount of 2.5w oil) then attach other syring to the bleed port on the remote (fill approximately 1/2 full with 2.5w oil) on remote side pull the syring back to draw any air out.. then release repeat this a few times to appears to be free of air, also press the remote button a few times to make sure there is no air in the piston, now go ahead and gently draw back on the post side of syring then gently push on the remote side pushing oil through the line. after you pushed most of the oil through (leave small amount on remote side to keep air from bleeding back into system and to finish bleeding of remote) draw back on post side syring making sure it is free of air repeat this step a few times.. then once it is free of air. gently apply pressure to the remote side syring so that a small amount of oil is weeping out replace post side bleed screw, now back to remote side syring pull/push on syring to make sure system is free of air repeat a few times also press remote button a few times while pushing and pulling on the syring. before you remove syring from bleed port give it a nice push to make sure the system has enough oil then remove syring from remote side putting a few drops of oil on port then replace bleed port screw and you should be on your way!

that should do it for you i hope i didn't leave anything out!

P.S

I left my remote button mount a tad loose so if i fall or crash it has some room to move instead of breaking. its still tight enough that is doesn't move on any crazy terrain or when i press it.


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## Rivet (Sep 3, 2004)

mountaindavis said:


> How much play is normal? When fully extended, my seat can move maybe 1/8"-1/4" fore and aft. This may be normal, I don't know, as it is my first adjustable post. I don't notice it riding and it doesn't really bother me in any tangible way but I would feel a lot better knowing if that is just what adjustable seatposts have or if I should have it looked at. Still quite new. LOVE its functionality...


My Reverb has 1/16-1/8" of fore/aft play also. The Kind Shocks are the same way.


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## nixgame22 (Apr 10, 2008)

I've had the Specialized Command Post and also the KS i900r post. I've now put around 40 miles on my Reverb, and absolutely love it. Out of the box, mine was slow. So, I bled it and shortened the cable. It wasn't really a hard process at all, much easier than bleeding brakes. The fact that it came with a bleed-kit, and cable-guide also rocks. 
My KS post was never perfect, ever. Very inconsistant. 
The Reverb is the adjustable post that I've been waiting for, and the epitome of how one should work. The button is soft and smooth, the post works EVERY time throughout the ride. It did require a little service out of the box, but honestly most disc brakes do also. The bleeding process was fairly simple too, I'm not sure why so many people are having issues bleeding them. I following the directions exactly, and it worked great.
Anything I don't like about the post? Hmm....weight maybe? Price maybe? The remote is somewhat "bulky" on the handlebar.

Here are some mounted pics:


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## Lev (Oct 12, 2004)

Sort of a repost, but figured this belongs in here:

OMG I F'ing love this thing. Just got back from my second ride on it. Cold as **** outside, but the seatpost is still smooth as butter. Some general observations: 1) I use it more than I thought I would; 2) Using for climbs has been surprisingly awesome - cleaned some techy stuff today with ease that normally gives me some trouble. It's super nice being able to get your butt down when you need a lower COG; 3) DH is just that much more fun. That's probably the key factor to having the new seatpost. I like climbing and all, but I still have that mentality of climbing to descend. Well, descents just got that much more fun. If you're thinking of getting one, do it. Put it on the xmas list. I don't think they're overrated by the slightest bit. A few pics:


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## Hazbo (Apr 5, 2007)

*Post over extending*

Hi Folks,

Just picked up the reverb. Had to shorten the hose and bleed (only 1 sringe so far at the remote end). All seems to be working ok, although if you pick the bike up by the saddle when the seatpost is not fully extended the post will lift up and over extend. Has anyone else had this issue?

Going to try the 2 sringe bleed and see if that fixes it...


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

mountaindavis said:


> How much play is normal? When fully extended, my seat can move maybe 1/8"-1/4" fore and aft. This may be normal, I don't know, as it is my first adjustable post. I don't notice it riding and it doesn't really bother me in any tangible way but I would feel a lot better knowing if that is just what adjustable seatposts have or if I should have it looked at. Still quite new. LOVE its functionality...


Make sure you rotate the post over to one side so you don't mis-interpret some side play for fore and aft play. I have a minor amount of fore-aft play (@.025") with the post fully extended but no play once the post is compressed about 1/2". I don't ride with the post fully extended for this reason.


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

Hazbo said:


> Hi Folks,
> 
> Just picked up the reverb. Had to shorten the hose and bleed (only 1 sringe so far at the remote end). All seems to be working ok, although if you pick the bike up by the saddle when the seatpost is not fully extended the post will lift up and over extend. Has anyone else had this issue?
> 
> Going to try the 2 sringe bleed and see if that fixes it...


Normal...
The owners manual indicates the post my extend if you pull up on it.

If you lift the the rear of the bike up by the seat, the post may extend; Depends on the force involved. I'm not quite sure what you mean by_ over_ extend. Once you release the seat it will return to its normal set position.


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## blahblahx (Jan 18, 2009)

*reverb won't go up*

My reverb won't go up. Try to pull it up and it sinks back down 2".
What to do?


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## Hazbo (Apr 5, 2007)

MarkHL said:


> Normal...
> The owners manual indicates the post my extend if you pull up on it.
> 
> If you lift the the rear of the bike up by the seat, the post may extend; Depends on the force involved. I'm not quite sure what you mean by_ over_ extend. Once you release the seat it will return to its normal set position.


Hi Mark,
Thanks for the reply. Carried out the 2 syringe bleed and seemed to sort the problem. Agreed that that the seat will extend if pulled on(this is what I meant by over extend) However little force had to be applied. Now it stills happens but you need to apply alot force. So there was still air in system I guess.


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

blahblahx said:


> My reverb won't go up. Try to pull it up and it sinks back down 2".
> What to do?


Well you can start by reading the rest of this thread. Then if you have any more questions, read it again and bleed your post.


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## blahblahx (Jan 18, 2009)

q2xltrgt
Was that just sarcastic crap or do you actually know what you're talking about?
The post won't go down and if you try to manually pull it up, it goes right back down. I don't see how air could cause either.


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## vinmann3 (Mar 26, 2009)

I don't think it was sarcastic crap. I just received my Reverb on friday. It was stuck in the fully extended position. After reading this post completely, I was able to bleed out the air and now it works perfectly. Make sure to resize the hose before you go through the bleed process. Bleed and become a believer!!!


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## blahblahx (Jan 18, 2009)

mine worked for a month. Now it's stuck half way. Won't go down. You can pull up, but it comes back down. Just don't see how bleeding would have any affect.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

blahblahx said:


> Was that just sarcastic crap or do you actually know what you're talking about?.


The latter. Read the instructions on bleeding and then have at it. You're bleeding the remote which is separate from the inner workings of the post.


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## blahblahx (Jan 18, 2009)

Why would having air in the line keep the post from lowering?


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

blahblahx said:


> Why would having air in the line keep the post from lowering?


Because if you have air in your remote line, then your remote isn't working properly. If your remote isn't working, you can't drop the post. Would you really want a post that drops on its own with no remote interaction? As far as the post is concerned you're not using the remote, so it won't drop. It sounds to me like the post is working as intended.

Think of hydraulic disc brakes. You have the fluid in the line, and when you pull the lever, it forces the fluid down the line. When it gets to the end, it forces the pistons to close around the disc. If you have air in your lines, it can't generate the force required to push the pistons into the disc. You don't have enough end to end pressure and there's not enough fluid at the end of the line.

The Reverb also uses a hydraulic remote. Same concept, except I believe the pressure in the line opens a valve that "unlocks" the post and allows it to move freely. The post will then go down if pressure is on it, or release to full extension if no pressure. If you have too much air in the remote line, and not enough fluid, the lever cannot generate enough force to open the valve and "unlock" the post. Therefore, you won't be able to move it up or down, and it will stay at its current position. Even if you pull it up manually, it will return to its original position because you never released the post. The return spring can't move it to full extension, only to its current locked position.

Just try a good bleed per instructions. It's stupid easy. Once you get it setup correctly, you shouldn't have to worry about it again anytime soon. If it doesn't work, call SRAM.


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

blahblahx said:


> q2xltrgt
> Was that just sarcastic crap or do you actually know what you're talking about?
> The post won't go down and if you try to manually pull it up, it goes right back down. I don't see how air could cause either.


Sorry, working, Not sarcastic. I don't know everything but bleeding seems to be fixing a lot of various issues w/ this post. and if i recall correctly that issue was previously discussed in this thread.


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## ThrottleAbuse (Jul 2, 2010)

Has anyone had one of these apart. I need to limit the full extension by 30-40 mm to solve a seat height issue and a max insertion issue. I am thinking I could design a shim and cut it out with my lathe if there is room internally?


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

I haven't taken mine apart, but there are some good cutaway pictures on the net, just google rockshox reverb cutaway. I think the sicklines site has some of the best. Here is one from the Sicklines site--they have others there as well.


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## boude (Nov 18, 2010)

I have just ordered at my French bicycle seller a seatpost Reverb. 

The length of the hydraulic hose of origin is of 1750mm.

However I need a hydraulic hose of 2200mm because it passes under the case of crankset.

Having to contact the distributor for France, it would not be possible to have a hydraulic hose of a length superior to 1750mm.

My questions:
> Have you of the hydraulic hose of a length of 2200mm?
> Where may I order this hydraulic hose?
> What are the other parts to be ordered to install this hydraulic hose?

Thank you for your assistant.

Sportily.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

Hello, anyone weighing in at 275 using a Reverb? I just received mine yesterday which had front to back and side to side play. Never even sat on it. Sent it back for a replacement. Just wondering if there is a weight limit? thanks Rich


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## ecrepeau (Aug 25, 2010)

*Size*

So I am confused on how to tell what size post I would need between the 380mm and the 420mm.

When I measure my current stock post from the bottom of the seat rails to the minimum insertion mark on my frame it is 12" or 304mm.

With this being the case I am thinking that I can go with the 380mm correct?


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

boude said:


> I have just ordered at my French bicycle seller a seatpost Reverb.
> 
> The length of the hydraulic hose of origin is of 1750mm.
> 
> ...


You should be able to route the hose that follows a path near the underside of your top tube. It doesn't make sense to route it all the way under your crankset where is may be more easily damaged. The hose is very light and thin walled. Think "Flexible Soda Straw".

I suggest you get creative with zip-ties and what RS supplies with the seatpost and see if you can come up with a new routing plan.


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

rjedoaks said:


> Hello, anyone weighing in at 275 using a Reverb? I just received mine yesterday which had front to back and side to side play. Never even sat on it. Sent it back for a replacement. Just wondering if there is a weight limit? thanks Rich


A little _rotational_ side-to-side is normal. It's hard to check for fore and aft play unless you first rotate the post to one side to cancel out feeling any side to side play you may feel in the fore-aft check. A small amount of fore-aft has been reported at full extension. At your weight, you may not want to ride with it fully extended. A half inch insertion would probably be safer.

I've put about 70 hours on mine so far and it still feels like the day I got it. The small amount of play has not increased in either direction.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

I was thinking along the lines of a little play would be normal. This was way beyond that, I hope. A tad of rotational play I could live with, but not front to back movement. The post felt really weak, just by grasping, I was able to feel movement where the post entered the post body. If there was as much play as this one has , I really think their would be many more complaints. I suppose I'll find out. It would kind of defeat the purpose if I couldn't use the post at full extension. Thanks Rich


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## highaltitude (Aug 21, 2008)

*Replacement Piston not compatible*

After 5 weeks i finally got a huge box containing the tiny replacement piston, which is a generic xloc spare part that i posted earlier. Unfortunately, it's a totally different design, and is not compatible with the Reverb's xloc lever. The original Reverb piston is shorter, and has a different head design, and a single o-ring. I trried installing it anyway and got a couple of cycles out of the post before it stopped working again. Fluid leaks past the new piston, and it extends way too far. The silver washer bit could probably prevent this, but it would not fit into the piston bore.

I guess I'll have to go to the importer for a replacement part.


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## Jamie_MTB (Nov 18, 2004)

Dam I've just received mine in the post!

Looking at the part numbers posted on page 3 they're totally different


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

*380- 420*



rjedoaks said:


> I was thinking along the lines of a little play would be normal. This was way beyond that, I hope. A tad of rotational play I could live with, but not front to back movement. The post felt really weak, just by grasping, I was able to feel movement where the post entered the post body. If there was as much play as this one has , I really think their would be many more complaints. I suppose I'll find out. It would kind of defeat the purpose if I couldn't use the post at full extension. Thanks Rich


Anyone know if the telescoping portion of the Reverb is lengthened or just the body gains the 40 mm with the 420. Trying to figure out if the 420 has more overlap inside the body?


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

Man, I got the wrong part as well... damn... as a stopgap I was able to crazy glue my broken piston back into the lever body and it has performed perfectly for the past month or so.


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## highaltitude (Aug 21, 2008)

*Araldite*

Since my new part failed, I also tried gluing the broken one back together. But it doesn't hold a seal. After bleeding the post will cycle 2 or 3 times, but air must be geting in behind the piston. Maybe when i snapped the piston i damaged the lever body. This is getting really expensive...


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

So, the correct SRAM part number for the piston assembly is 11.6815.016.020 ... I've contacted Universal Cycles who said they should be able to get the correct part from SRAM.... we'll see.


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## tma (Apr 16, 2010)

Peeps,

I've joined the herd! Got myself a 30.9 x 380mm from North Shore this morning.
Installed it then noticed the slow action. Read this thread, found out about single syringe
bleeding, did it to a T, then WHAM!!!!

The thing is like a freakin' hydraulic chair! So smooth and precise. No wobbles or anything.
And the matchmaker fits perfect with my XO shifter. 

One of the best things I've ever purchased.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

tma said:


> Peeps,
> 
> I've joined the herd! Got myself a 30.9 x 380mm from North Shore this morning.
> Installed it then noticed the slow action. Read this thread, found out about single syringe
> ...


Awesome. Glad you got it sorted and that the thread helped at least one person out with their new Reverb. :thumbsup: Sounds like you're really enjoying it. I wish I could be riding mine more, I planned to have a mid-term review by now, but waiting on a warranty replacement for a broken frame currently. I've just been cruisin around on my hardtail. Hopefully I can get back on my main bike soon and do some more testing of the Reverb.


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## Jamie_MTB (Nov 18, 2004)

highaltitude said:


> After 5 weeks i finally got a huge box containing the tiny replacement piston, which is a generic xloc spare part that i posted earlier. Unfortunately, it's a totally different design, and is not compatible with the Reverb's xloc lever. The original Reverb piston is shorter, and has a different head design, and a single o-ring. I trried installing it anyway and got a couple of cycles out of the post before it stopped working again. Fluid leaks past the new piston, and it extends way too far. The silver washer bit could probably prevent this, but it would not fit into the piston bore.
> 
> I guess I'll have to go to the importer for a replacement part.


A friend just rebuilt mine using the same part. You need to swap the o-rings (reverb has two lips) and removed that silver bit.

TBH its feels better than ever and faster! There's no signs of oil leaking out.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

*Much better*

I just received mine yesterday which had front to back and side to side play. Never even sat on it. Sent it back for a replacement. Just wondering if there is a weight limit? thanks Rich[/QUOTE]

The replacement has no play, very nice. Had to add fluid to the remote like everybody else. Works great now. Thanks for the tips. Rich


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

kinda surprised at all the people having trouble bleeding. fill the remote syringe 3/4 and empty the post syringe. then just push the oil back and forth a bunch. also helps to gently push oil with the remote syringe when you are screwing the post screw back in. then push the remote in, press the syringe, over and over. that simple.


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## sawbonz (Oct 14, 2009)

*broken xloc plunger*

I took on nice header on a fast downhill and broke my xloc remote lever for the reverb. It was mounted on the right in the on top of the bar position. I don't like the fact that the remote lever protrudes above the bar in such a vulnerable position. It is also a a PITA to flip the bike over to work on with the lever in the way. I think it would be better to mount the remote in the under bar position. I assume I need a left-sided xloc to mount it under the bar on the right? Anyone sorted out this issue?


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

sawbonz said:


> I took on nice header on a fast downhill and broke my xloc remote lever for the reverb. It was mounted on the right in the on top of the bar position. I don't like the fact that the remote lever protrudes above the bar in such a vulnerable position. It is also a a PITA to flip the bike over to work on with the lever in the way. I think it would be better to mount the remote in the under bar position. I assume I need a left-sided xloc to mount it under the bar on the right? Anyone sorted out this issue?


There are several posts in this thread of people running the right side lever under the bars on the left, even pictures. Read up.


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## nixgame22 (Apr 10, 2008)

BaeckerX1 said:


> There are several posts in this thread of people running the right side lever under the bars on the left, even pictures. Read up.


Read up? Did you read what he typed? Baecker said, "I assume I need a left-sided xloc to mount it under the bar on the right?"

By the way the button is angled, you would need a left-handed remote to work correctly under the bar on the right.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

nixgame22 said:


> Read up? Did you read what he typed? Baecker said, "I assume I need a left-sided xloc to mount it under the bar on the right?"
> 
> By the way the button is angled, you would need a left-handed remote to work correctly on the under the bar on the right.


Yes, that's correct. But judging by the fact that you run a right-handed remote under the bars on the left, wouldn't the logical assumption be that you'd need a left-handed remote to run under the bars on the right? I guess I sometimes forget that you need to be blatantly obvious on the internet. I thought that was a given looking at the orientation of the remote on the bars. The procedure would be exactly the same, only mirrored, so I still believe the pictures and the previous posts on the topic to be relevant, including the mods that some people had to do to make it work.


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

Could someone please measure their Reverb from bottom of the topcap (silver piece) to seat rails?? Im thinking of putting one on my next bike but need to know if it will fit.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

The info is all in the first post:



> Install lengths:
> I measured about 7 1/4" from bottom of fitting to bottom of seat rails, about 7 1/2" to top of seat rails.
> Bottom of silver fitting to the seat rails is 190 mm when post is fully extended. (scottg)
> You need a minimum of 195mm of exposed post (from the enter of the saddle rails to the top of the seat tube/collar) to run a Reverb. (tscheezy)
> ...


I'm about 5mm - 10mm short on mine, but I'm gonna end up getting one and then working it out. I'm thinking that there will surely be a way to add a spacer (similar to RS forks) to limit the travel. I certainly hope so anyway


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

Isildur said:


> The info is all in the first post:
> 
> I'm about 5mm - 10mm short on mine, but I'm gonna end up getting one and then working it out. I'm thinking that there will surely be a way to add a spacer (similar to RS forks) to limit the travel. I certainly hope so anyway


Thank you I was just going through this thread again and just saw that - DOH!! Im a MORON, thanks! :thumbsup:


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

haha  No Worries. I'm sure I've done that a few times (OK, well maybe more than a few) over the years  Enjoy your Reverb!


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

Guy.Ford said:


> Could someone please measure their Reverb from bottom of the topcap (silver piece) to seat rails?? Im thinking of putting one on my next bike but need to know if it will fit.


if the full travel is too much couldnt you just run it a little lower in the travel?


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## unclekittykiller (Mar 1, 2006)

b-kul said:


> if the full travel is too much couldnt you just run it a little lower in the travel?


yes that works for me as my setup is only 5-10mm too long. i can see it being a real pain though if your post is 1-2 inches too long or more as you would basically need to hover over your seat and stop the post with your butt before full extension each time. if you were to let the post return to full extension without stopping it, you'd have a hard time getting your butt back on the seat as it would be too high, especially if you're clipped in and can't "hop" back up onto the seat to lower it a bit.
I've been curious about what mods Push will be offering for the Reverb, and if a reducing spacer could be offered, I'm sure it would be a popular mod as it seems many people have been asking about this.


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

b-kul said:


> if the full travel is too much couldnt you just run it a little lower in the travel?


Very true, though that would seem pointless to me, then I would just buy a dif post, or I could buy a smaller frame.

Im currently considering a Firebird in either a 19 or 21, Im 6'4" so either would work but need to be sure if the post will fit either frame which may have helped me decide between either size. Seems it would work so no worries, now if only I could decide on frame size!!!


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## Neily03 (Feb 27, 2010)

If there was some way of reducing the travel I'd order one today, but 125mm make it too long for my, I'm cursed with short legs....


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## Jai (Nov 7, 2010)

I think you can limit the travel externally, it wouldn't be the most elegant solution however...let's say I would only do this if I had an adjustable seatpost and I wasn't able to return it and buy the right one.

You basically need to copy this idea, an small strap (or cord,...) attaching the seat rails or head post to the frame or lower part of seatpost so the travel will be only as long as the strap is.


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## AvalonTrails (Dec 28, 2010)

*Reverb lifts up*

Anyone else have trouble with the RS Reverb not being fully locked from lifting upward? When I first got mine, it was totally stuck. After I bled it, it worked very well, and IIRC, would not rise if you lifted up on the saddle. Now it does behave this way. SRAM says this is normal, and there is a note in the manual about this possibility, but I seem to recall that it did not originally do this. I may try another bleed. * Is anyone else observing this spring-up behavior or lack thereof?*


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## kibbs (Jun 8, 2009)

Guys 

Loads of info here the post looks like something I may be interested in. However pardon the ignorance I have not had one of these in hand and the measurement I am interested in is from the absolute bottom of the 380 to the bottom of the silver collar. I am trying to determine if I can get the full length into my Mojo, hey I have short legs  so I may need to bottom it out to use this effectively.

Thanks!


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## supercusty (Nov 17, 2008)

my wife has hers fully insterted into her mojo

as like to fuilly instert mine into her mojo


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## benja55 (Aug 10, 2005)

*A word of thanks...*

Just wanted to say thanks to BaekerX1 and everyone else on this Reverb thread, super useful info. Much appreciated.

I've been holding off on the Reverb for a little bit but Santa hooked one up. With the info here I think I can get it dialed without too much trouble.

Will post a report and pics shortly. Happy and Healthy 2011 people. Already planning for a years worth of epics. :thumbsup:


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## tma (Apr 16, 2010)

Guys,

Here's a couple of shots of my reverb and the routing I've made for the Giant Reign 2.

UP









DOWN









Routing









Remote (the matchmaker is really useful with the XO)









Bike Shot









:thumbsup:


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## AvalonTrails (Dec 28, 2010)

AvalonTrails said:


> Anyone else have trouble with the RS Reverb not being fully locked from lifting upward? When I first got mine, it was totally stuck. After I bled it, it worked very well, and IIRC, would not rise if you lifted up on the saddle. Now it does behave this way. SRAM says this is normal, and there is a note in the manual about this possibility, but I seem to recall that it did not originally do this. I may try another bleed. * Is anyone else observing this spring-up behavior or lack thereof?*


I tried another bleed last night. It was not helpful in stopping the spring-up behavior.

I am lookiing for others observations...


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

Mine will also move if you lift with enough force... I don't see this as an issue however.


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## Neily03 (Feb 27, 2010)

Right, I'm on the verge of ordering a Reverb but just want to make sure at full extension it's not going to be too long..... 
With my current post I'm at about 195mm from seat post clamp to the bottom of the seat rails which is as high as I can go and be comfortable....










Could someone please do the same measurement with a Reverb fully inserted and extended and post a pic, cheers.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Look at post #214, 1/3rd of the way down this page.


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## Neily03 (Feb 27, 2010)

I was hoping someone could post a pic similar to mine so I can so for a myself, not that I don't believe post #214 i'd just like to see it in a pic when spending all that money.


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

Neil, I just measured mine. It's about 187mm. It will definitely work for you.

I was in the same boat, and my Reverb is all the way down to the collar. Then two days ago I bought a new saddle (WTB Rocket V SLT) which is higher than my old one. Now it's a tad too long fully extended.


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

Guy.Ford said:


> Very true, though that would seem pointless to me, then I would just buy a dif post, or I could buy a smaller frame.
> 
> Im currently considering a Firebird in either a 19 or 21, Im 6'4" so either would work but need to be sure if the post will fit either frame which may have helped me decide between either size. Seems it would work so no worries, now if only I could decide on frame size!!!


yeah, after reading ukk's post i see why that would be an issue. by how much travel is it too long by? because i have it set where my "ideal" trail height is like a .8 of full extension, ideal climbing height is like .95 and i even have a bit more for that little extra "umph" to get up those brutal hills. just something to consider if its not too long by much.


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## Neily03 (Feb 27, 2010)

polymathic said:


> Neil, I just measured mine. It's about 187mm. It will definitely work for you.
> 
> I was in the same boat, and my Reverb is all the way down to the collar. Then two days ago I bought a new saddle (WTB Rocket V SLT) which is higher than my old one. Now it's a tad too long fully extended.


Cheers mate, I'll get one ordered asap!


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## larlev (Feb 22, 2009)

Just ordered one for $245 new 30.9 380mm on ebay. Seller had 1 more.

Any stumpy fsr owners running one and have a good hose routing idea. Since we don't have cables on TT, is it long enough to run on downtube?


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## RSMarco (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi,
Been keeping my eye on this thread as I have been waiting for the Reverb to become available in the UK. I have now just purchased one from the guys at my local trail centre (oneplanetadventure) and can't wait to fit it to my carbon nomad .


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## sawbonz (Oct 14, 2009)

nixgame22 said:


> Read up? Did you read what he typed? Baecker said, "I assume I need a left-sided xloc to mount it under the bar on the right?"
> 
> By the way the button is angled, you would need a left-handed remote to work correctly under the bar on the right.


I found a solution for those who have broken the plunger on the remote: From what I can gather, there is not a replacement plunger available yet from SRAM. Instead of fixing the remote, I used an xloc remote the belongs to a XX Rockshox fork. The remote for the fork works differently from the Reverb remote in that it requires a second push to unlock the plunger once pushed in. However, It does work very nicely to actuate the seatpost. I will replace the plunger on the Reverb remote once one is available. In the mean time I am back in action.

BTW, I mounted my remote under the bar similar to nixgame22 and it works reasonably well. There is less interference with my XO shifter and Avid brakes in the most inboard position instead of out near the grip. I still think that the remote should be redesigned to work specifically under the bar where it is better protected.


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

Got mine yesterday. Set up today and with a quick bleed, functioning perfectly. Now I will see if these things will really hold up to pacific northwest winter riding. 

Got it set upside down on l side of bar inside my shifter, just have to reach a little, not too cumbersome but install is clean.


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## ianblaster (May 28, 2010)

I installed my Reverb today. This thing is awesome. Like a lot of other here, mine did not work out of the box. It took my entire 6' 175 lbs. frame to compress the post and then had to hold the button in a solid 2 minutes for it to fully extend. Thanks to all here for posting such good info. It made shortening the hose and bleeding a breeze. Works like a champ now. I could see how someone who did not know about this thread could get very upset after installing it and it not working. I hope Rock Shox plans to include instructions on bleeding in the box in the future. It would save them a lot of customer service calls.


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## jdc5r (Feb 15, 2008)

argh, i really want one of these but i only have 180mm of post showing. Someone please engineer a solution!


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## larlev (Feb 22, 2009)

Here's how I routed my cable. Mine worked perfectly out of the box. If the cable was a tad longer it would have been perfect.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Oh man. My Reverb had gotten pretty slow here in the cold so I went ahead and topped it off again today. I did it with it dialed all the way to slow, capped it off, and then turned it to fast. I had it pretty good before, but OMG is it fast now on the fastest setting. Almost too fast. It pretty much jumps right up. I might have to turn it slower a few clicks. I don't want to get punched in the nads.  

I did this by just topping it off at the lever. Just thought I'd let people know that you can get it REALLY fast easily if you want to. With a good fill it releases and lowers a lot easier too.


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## john85D (Aug 1, 2006)

*Reverb problems*

I've had my Reverb for a couple of months now. I rebled it when it was new and worked flawlessly but only lasted for a few weeks. Getting the post down was pretty difficult and needed a lot of force, extension was too slow as well. Then I rebled it again and it started to work perfectly again, but now after a few weeks action is too slow once again. Any suggestions? By the way, when I did the second bleed, I had a hard time getting it to work right. Finally I had to turn the knob into full slow like I always do, but also pull the plunger out completely as turning the knob into slow pulls it in, then do the bleed. Then it worked good. One thing I'm wondering is why the actuation changes after a few weeks. I don't see any leaks in the line which can cause this.


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

That does not seem normal, john85d. You could have a very slow leak causing this. Anyhow, if this were happening to my Reverb ever couple of weeks, I'd send it back or contact SRAM.


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## larlev (Feb 22, 2009)

Here are a few pics of how I stopped cable rub on Reverb using velcro...it's cheap and works perfect. Nice and neat. I cut a little smaller than a width of standard electrical tape, so it would wrap without overlap. It's the industrial stuff from Walmart..located in craft section


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

john85D said:


> I've had my Reverb for a couple of months now. I rebled it when it was new and worked flawlessly but only lasted for a few weeks. Getting the post down was pretty difficult and needed a lot of force, extension was too slow as well. Then I rebled it again and it started to work perfectly again, but now after a few weeks action is too slow once again. Any suggestions? By the way, when I did the second bleed, I had a hard time getting it to work right. Finally I had to turn the knob into full slow like I always do, but also pull the plunger out completely as turning the knob into slow pulls it in, then do the bleed. Then it worked good. One thing I'm wondering is why the actuation changes after a few weeks. I don't see any leaks in the line which can cause this.


I've noticed this with mine as well. Kinda odd. I'll bleed it and have it running super fast and after a few weeks it's slowing down again. No leaks can be found and outside of this, everything is working great.

My only thought on this, outside of an internal leak, is housing expansion. It appears that it takes very little fluid change to effect the speed at which the remote activates the post. If this is so, a very long hydrolic hose experiencing expansion issues could be the problem. Be it, hot to cold impact, or pressure from the constant activation of the post, hard to say. One would hope that like replacing a deriallier cable and stretching it out, it will finally settle down. Problem with this concept is that unlike a brakeline, it's not braided, so it could potentially keep expanding. Also, it's possible that the hydrolic brake lines experience this as well but the open resevior system compensates for it and you never notice it.

Hmmmmmmmmmm?


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

BMJ said:


> I've noticed this with mine as well. Kinda odd. I'll bleed it and have it running super fast and after a few weeks it's slowing down again. No leaks can be found and outside of this, everything is working great.
> 
> My only thought on this, outside of an internal leak, is housing expansion. It appears that it takes very little fluid change to effect the speed at which the remote activates the post. If this is so, a very long hydrolic hose experiencing expansion issues could be the problem. Be it, hot to cold impact, or pressure from the constant activation of the post, hard to say. One would hope that like replacing a deriallier cable and stretching it out, it will finally settle down. Problem with this concept is that unlike a brakeline, it's not braided, so it could potentially keep expanding. Also, it's possible that the hydrolic brake lines experience this as well but the open resevior system compensates for it and you never notice it.
> 
> Hmmmmmmmmmm?


Last week when it was cold and rainy, the temperature had the same effect on mine. Very sluggish until I added more fluid to the remote, then very fast. Now, a week later it has slowed a tiny bit. Works great, although mine has developed a slight fore/aft play. I don't see this as a problem unless more play develops.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

larlev said:


> Here are a few pics of how I stopped cable rub on Reverb using velcro...it's cheap and works perfect. Nice and neat. I cut a little smaller than a width of standard electrical tape, so it would wrap without overlap. It's the industrial stuff from Walmart..located in craft section


That's a pretty clever fix. Do you think the velcro will pick dirt and become sandpaper though?


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## larlev (Feb 22, 2009)

car_nut said:


> That's a pretty clever fix. Do you think the velcro will pick dirt and become sandpaper though?


Hmmm....good question. I wash my bike after every ride...can you tell? HaHa, so I doubt it would be a problem. If it does I'll just replace it. Took all of 3 minutes to do.


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## john85D (Aug 1, 2006)

BMJ said:


> I've noticed this with mine as well. Kinda odd. I'll bleed it and have it running super fast and after a few weeks it's slowing down again. No leaks can be found and outside of this, everything is working great.
> 
> My only thought on this, outside of an internal leak, is housing expansion. It appears that it takes very little fluid change to effect the speed at which the remote activates the post. If this is so, a very long hydrolic hose experiencing expansion issues could be the problem. Be it, hot to cold impact, or pressure from the constant activation of the post, hard to say. One would hope that like replacing a deriallier cable and stretching it out, it will finally settle down. Problem with this concept is that unlike a brakeline, it's not braided, so it could potentially keep expanding. Also, it's possible that the hydrolic brake lines experience this as well but the open resevior system compensates for it and you never notice it.
> 
> Hmmmmmmmmmm?


Hmm.....you have a point here. I wonder why RS didn't just go with brake hoses. That would give us better options if we decide to change the hose in the future. Anyway, I'll just do another bleed and check for leaks again....


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

*First month*

Love Reverb so far. Mine worked out of the box and is even faster now that I shortened the hose and did bleed. Tips on here are very helpful --e.g., I switched the RH remote to LH under bar. Using it more each ride and learning how much I was missing out on not ever lowering my seat post previously.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

*Remote question*

Hey guys, remote questions:
I already have X9 shifters and Elixer brakes, sharing the same mount via matchmakers. So, can I add the reverb and have all three on the same single clamp?

Along the same lines... I am running 1x9 but have the matchmaker clamps (so no front shifter). Can I run the reverb remote "upside down" on the left side, as part of the matchmaker assembly of my elixer lever?

Thanks


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

FM said:


> Hey guys, remote questions:
> I already have X9 shifters and Elixer brakes, sharing the same mount via matchmakers. So, can I add the reverb and have all three on the same single clamp?
> 
> Along the same lines... I am running 1x9 but have the matchmaker clamps (so no front shifter). Can I run the reverb remote "upside down" on the left side, as part of the matchmaker assembly of my elixer lever?
> ...


According to SRAM you can run all 3 with the right matchmaker (think it's the Matchmaker X). Not sure about the upside down on the matchmaker, but it doubt it's designed that way.


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## MoustacheCashStash (Dec 6, 2010)

BaeckerX1 said:


> According to SRAM you can run all 3 with the right matchmaker (think it's the Matchmaker X). Not sure about the upside down on the matchmaker, but it doubt it's designed that way.


Thanks for the info. Yeah, the difference/compatibility between the original matchmaker design and the new XX stuff has me confused. Is anybody running the reverb matchmaker'd up to older non-XX elixir brakes?


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

MoustacheCashStash said:


> Thanks for the info. Yeah, the difference/compatibility between the original matchmaker design and the new XX stuff has me confused. Is anybody running the reverb matchmaker'd up to older non-XX elixir brakes?


Pretty sure the Reverb is only compatible with the Matchmaker X. SRAM doesn't really have a lot of detailed info on it. It looks like the original matchmaker was only designed for PushLoc and not X-Loc hydraulic remotes which is what the Reverb remote is essentially designed after (for practical purposes you can consider them the same thing). If you go by SRAM's website those brakes aren't compatible with the X type clamp so they won't work.

Simple answer: If your brake will work with the Matchmaker X clamp you can run all 3 on it.

The ones that are Matchmaker X compatible have the U clamp style like this:








not the 2 bolt style like this:


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## wpuk (May 13, 2008)

Just curious, has anything been mentioned about a wireless remote solenoid switch, instead of cabling hydraulic/wired 

I know it's something that is being tried with shifters but it seems a lot more of a logical place to start introducing electronic gear into mountain biking, if only from a simplicity point of view


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## kibbs (Jun 8, 2009)

wpuk

Pull that off and it would be very cool, great idea. Not so much for cable pull type posts like the KS but perhaps with hydraulic as not much pressure would be needed to actuate. Call in the engineers


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

It looks like when using the matchmaker set up that the plunger would be positioned above the bar--is there a way to use that set up and still have it under so it won't break?


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## 2w4s (Mar 20, 2005)

mountaindavis said:


> It looks like when using the matchmaker set up that the plunger would be positioned above the bar--is there a way to use that set up and still have it under so it won't break?


sure, but you would have to learn how to brake with your palms. let us know how it works out. 

no, you cannot use the matchmaker and still run the plunger on the bottom.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

2w4s said:


> no, you cannot use the matchmaker and still run the plunger on the bottom.


Hey thanks for the info 2w4s. Would running 1x9 change that? (thinking, no shifter on the left side, so maybe that frees up space for the remote...)


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## 2w4s (Mar 20, 2005)

you can run the remote on the bottom, you just can't do it with the matchmaker. I have mine on the bottom and I'm running a 2x9.


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## larlev (Feb 22, 2009)

Not too found of cutting shifter lever...damn


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

I finished mounting mine up last night. Complete Busch league hacking. I'm running older X7's without the matchmaker and had to remove about half of the downshift lever and the tip of the upshift. 

Overall, I'm none too impressed with the ergonomics and packaging of the remote. Reaching the button with it top mounted brought back memories of grade school thumb wrestling. It also looked like it would last about a week before getting torn off. Putting it on the bottom required mutilating the shifter and positioning it too far over to reach(the shifter). Luckily I use the FD about once a month so don't mind, but I give it an overall two thumbs down.


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## larlev (Feb 22, 2009)

Hmmm...I don't find mine in the way right side up. It's not like it's gets used like a shifter.
I thought I read somewhere you can specify right or left mount...could be wrong


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

FM said:


> Hey thanks for the info 2w4s. Would running 1x9 change that? (thinking, no shifter on the left side, so maybe that frees up space for the remote...)


That is exactly what I'm a gonna do to my new Nomad C 1x9 with XO brakes and bolt the lever to the brake. In my mind it will be perfect, we shall see if theory meets practice.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

larlev said:


> Hmmm...I don't find mine in the way right side up. It's not like it's gets used like a shifter.
> I thought I read somewhere you can specify right or left mount...could be wrong


I don't find it in the way when top mounted, I find it _out_ of the way. It just felt awkward to wrap my thumb up to the top side of the bar to hit it. I know I'm nitpicking here, but it seems like ergonomics where just forgotten. I think it feels great bottom mounted but it doesn't fit without hacking up the shifter.

The PN sticker on my Reverb called out which side the remote was spec'd for, so I assume it is possible to order a left/right specific unit. I just haven't seen any online retailers offer that as an option yet.


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

car_nut said:


> I don't find it in the way when top mounted, I find it _out_ of the way. It just felt awkward to wrap my thumb up to the top side of the bar to hit it. I know I'm nitpicking here, but it seems like ergonomics where just forgotten. I think it feels great bottom mounted but it doesn't fit without hacking up the shifter.
> 
> The PN sticker on my Reverb called out which side the remote was spec'd for, so I assume it is possible to order a left/right specific unit. I just haven't seen any online retailers offer that as an option yet.


Check out my post # 42. I mounted the RH mount on the LH bottom inboard the shifter. It's a slight stretch with your thumb but works pretty good.


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

IMO, if the remote is mounted on the right, it should be parallel to the ground, or slightly downward. Seems easier to activate, but more importantly it keeps the little piston lever that tends to break in a safer location. I've take a couple of tumbles this week, and the remote is OK though the remote body did take a hit--but if my remote were pointed up, the piston would have taken the hit and snapped. This way, it's also possible to (gently) put the bike upside down. I would not install the remote the way it's pictures in this post: http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7663911&postcount=253


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## benja55 (Aug 10, 2005)

*Any tips/tricks for trimming the Reverb hose?*

Hi gang,

I'm going to trim my Reverb's hose tonight, then bleed. I set it up a little bit a go, ran it on "Fast" and it was usable, but I need to trim the line a bit, so I figure I'll do both.

I've got nice sharp Felco snippers and from what I've read all I need to do is slice a bit of the hose at the remote, cut off what I don't need and push it back onto the barp on the remote.

Anything I've missed?


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## Diesel~ (Feb 17, 2008)

benja55 said:


> Hi gang,
> 
> I'm going to trim my Reverb's hose tonight, then bleed. I set it up a little bit a go, ran it on "Fast" and it was usable, but I need to trim the line a bit, so I figure I'll do both.
> 
> ...


That's all that I did.

1. set to full slow
2. small slice at remote's barb
3. clamped a small set of needle nose vice grips on the hose, near the barb
4. tapped with hammer until hose came off barb
5. trimmed with Felcos
6. opened up hose hole with an awl
7. pushed hose back onto barb
8. bled from remote end only, following SRAM's online instructions

It's worked like a champ ever since.

-D


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

polymathic said:


> IMO, if the remote is mounted on the right, it should be parallel to the ground, or slightly downward. Seems easier to activate, but more importantly it keeps the little piston lever that tends to break in a safer location. I've take a couple of tumbles this week, and the remote is OK though the remote body did take a hit--but if my remote were pointed up, the piston would have taken the hit and snapped. This way, it's also possible to (gently) put the bike upside down. I would not install the remote the way it's pictures in this post: http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7663911&postcount=253


I agree with you. That picture is from singletrack.com, not my bike, by the way. If you run the matchmaker like they are, there's no choice. I replaces the top half of your brake lever clamp so you have to go with whatever angle your brakes are at.

There indeed should be less chance of damage in a crash if you run it close to horizontal. It's pretty comfortable for me in that position as well. Good advice. :thumbsup:


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## RASER (Jul 7, 2008)

Most MTB frames seem to be designed to work with a 385 mm - 400 mm length seat post, that usually is supplied with the bike. A 385 mm - 400 mm seat post usually gives the rider 11 inches of adjustability, with the capacity for the seat to fully lower, to keep the rider from being tossed off the bike.

With all these crash stories and levers getting broken off, I would think people would be asking adjusting seat post companies for at least 10 inches of adjustability and the capacity to instantly, fully lower the seat.

Just a thought.


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

I smell a sales pitch.:yawn:


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

RASER said:


> usually gives the rider 11 inches of adjustability, with the capacity for the seat to fully lower, to keep the rider from being tossed off the bike.
> 
> With all these crash stories and levers getting broken off, I would think people would be asking adjusting seat post companies for at least 10 inches of adjustability and the capacity to instantly, fully lower the seat.
> 
> Just a thought.


I can follow the more-adjustablity-inches = better argument, but I'm finding that the range of adjustability is more than enough. Not sure what you mean by instantly fully lowering the seat as that is exactly what these do. I don't think you're hearing that people are crashing because of the Reverb, or because of a lack of adjustability or seats not lowering, but rather that when inevitable crashes happen, the remote (sitting on top of the bar) is too susceptible to being snapped. This is remedied by mounting it on the underside of the bar.


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## AvalonTrails (Dec 28, 2010)

I would say that the ease of RSReverb adjustability encourages me to use the very maximum height when climbing and cruising. IF I neglect to lower the seat in anticipation of technical terrain, I am more likely to EAT IT than if I had a seat set at a compromise height.

Ideally, I would like 6" of travel, but the problem is with my frame, that with the RSR set to the proper max height, it can only use 5" of travel anyway, before the bottom half of the RSR is fully bottomed. IF I had a 6" post, I would consider hacking the frame an inch, but it is carbon, so I would rather not.

Only if you ran a very small frame, or if you had a true DH frame with a super low seat tube, would you be able to use more than 5-6" travel.


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## RASER (Jul 7, 2008)

- Unlike road bike frames, mountain bike frames appear to be generally designed to give the cyclist's seat from 8 to a full 11 inches of lowering ability from a riders highest, most efficient pedaling position. This lowering capacity is designed into the frame by the frame companies to give the rider greater control through challenging terrain. 

Being able to lower the seat only by 5 inches from the riders power height position still leaves 3 to 6 inches for the seat to lower. Most Downhillers and BMXers would say this lower seat height equals greater control,
to keep from getting bucked off the bike. 

An adjusting seat post is supposed to quickly get the seat down and out of the way to avoid a crash. It just seems to me that with all these levers getting broken from people crashing, that riders should be asking the main seat post companies for a seat post that actually, fully lowers, to keep them from crashing.

- agree/disagree?


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

RASER said:


> - Unlike road bike frames, mountain bike frames appear to be generally designed to give the cyclist's seat from 8 to a full 11 inches of lowering ability from a riders highest, most efficient pedaling position. This lowering capacity is designed into the frame by the frame companies to give the rider greater control through challenging terrain.
> 
> Being able to lower the seat only by 5 inches from the riders power height position still leaves 3 to 6 inches for the seat to lower. Most Downhillers and BMXers would say this lower seat height equals greater control,
> to keep from getting bucked off the bike.
> ...


Why don't you just come right out and say that you think people should buy your RASE post? All that many levers have not been broken off. People are just looking for ways to minimize the risk. Crashes are not always caused by a high seatpost. The Reverb drops more than enough for me. If you crash with it fully lowered, it's not the seatpost's fault. This thread is specifically to talk about the Reverb, not the RASE. I've got nothing against the RASE post though. I've never used one.

Just a thought. 

BTW, you forgot your signature RASER. 

*- Austin Walsh
Developer of the RASE Seatpost*


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## larlev (Feb 22, 2009)

After a few rides with the post I wish the top out could be set within a range. I guess I'm one of the few who have it installed all the way to the aluminum stopper. I need about a 1/4"- 3/8" lower than it allows to pedal properly. I have to bump it down a little everytime..which is not that big of a deal. The post isn't made for XC riding anyway. It would be cool if we could have a little adjustment on where it fully extends. I can't think of a way to make sure it is at the same spot every time.


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## AvalonTrails (Dec 28, 2010)

larlev said:



> After a few rides with the post I wish the top out could be set within a range. I guess I'm one of the few who have it installed all the way to the aluminum stopper. I need about a 1/4"- 3/8" lower than it allows to pedal properly. I have to bump it down a little everytime..which is not that big of a deal. The post isn't made for XC riding anyway. It would be cool if we could have a little adjustment on where it fully extends. I can't think of a way to make sure it is at the same spot every time.


Tie a small strap between the saddle and post clamp. DONE...


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

AvalonTrails said:


> Tie a small strap between the saddle and post clamp. DONE...


Even a piece of nylon fishing line will do.... Also, you could get a lower profiled saddle. Fully extended use to be just right for me... until I got a new saddle. Now it's a tad too long. But I do love my new saddle--a light WTB Rocket V SLT I grabbed for $40 on CL.


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## larlev (Feb 22, 2009)

That's pretty clever...didn't think of that. I will try the fishing line and see if it holds. Not sure what it's gonna look like when the seat is down or how it will hang...but I'll see if it works.


If they had some way of having a dual position setup it would be great. Like a fully extended and one that is 1" shorter. Made possible by something in the post itself. I'm asking for way too much I know. HaHa


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## kibbs (Jun 8, 2009)

Set mine up on my Mojo and made the mistake thinking the top guide on the post could be used on the silver collar, Mojo has not got a round seat tube and I have no residual seat tube. Well it worked a few times then while testing after shortening the line post stayed in the down position. Come to fine it cracked the barb under the hose. Now to find another barb. Was pumped to try this out this weekend now it does not look like that is going to happen unless I can find one local.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

larlev said:


> That's pretty clever...didn't think of that. I will try the fishing line and see if it holds. Not sure what it's gonna look like when the seat is down or how it will hang...but I'll see if it works.
> 
> If they had some way of having a dual position setup it would be great. Like a fully extended and one that is 1" shorter. Made possible by something in the post itself. I'm asking for way too much I know. HaHa


Have you talked to any suspension shop yet to see if they could internally limit the post? If it's designed like a fork, you *MIGHT* be able to put a travel spacer in there.


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## larlev (Feb 22, 2009)

I just called PUSH...they state nothing can be done...yet.
It really needs to be figured out. I can't even put one on my wife's FSR...she only has about 6" of post sticking out. I did try the fishing line and it works to a degree. The problem is when you go down and then back up. The line gets twisted and stops it prematurely.


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

RASER
Being able to lower the seat only by 5 inches from the riders power height position still leaves 3 to 6 inches for the seat to lower. Most Downhillers and BMXers would say this lower seat height equals greater control said:


> not all the time. in a lot of cases people are having issues with 5 inches of travel being too much. if you uped that even more you are really pigon-holing yourself. if i understand what you are saying.


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## RASER (Jul 7, 2008)

Quote = b-kul
"not all the time. in a lot of cases people are having issues with 5 inches of travel being too much. if you uped that even more you are really pigon-holing yourself. if i understand what you are saying."


I agree, people can get fitted to frames that leave them allot or very little clearance.
Yet, even then, there is no need for anyone to get "pigon-holed".

I'll follow up in the Adjusting Seatpost thread. 

- Austin Walsh
Developer of the RASE Seatpost


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

RASER said:


> Quote = b-kul
> "not all the time. in a lot of cases people are having issues with 5 inches of travel being too much. if you uped that even more you are really pigon-holing yourself. if i understand what you are saying."
> 
> I agree, people can get fitted to frames that leave them allot or very little clearance.
> ...


i still didnt fully understand what you were saying until i saw who you are and researched your post. now i get what you are saying. kinda. your post has a max return height so even some that only uses 4'' of the post extended is fine but someone who has a reverb with 4 extra inches sticking out could drop it to the collar with your post. (yeah, i explained that bad.) just glancing quickly the rase post seems like a good idea but to me at this stage in the game, with the reverb and hilo and fox's post soon to hit the market, it seems a bit dated. and promoting yourself in a thread dedicated to the reverb- not cool.


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## weedkilla1 (Jan 1, 2009)

I just fitted my Reverb after waiting for ages for it to arrive.... First thing I did when setting it up was measure the seat height on my roadie and set it up at that - I figure thats a good start point, then I measured the seat height on my dh bike. Guess what, not quite 5" difference, so no need for more adjustment for me!


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## RASER (Jul 7, 2008)

b-kul,

I'm a MTB enthusiast first. I am not here promoting the RASE post that I developed at all. I find everyone talking about how much they still crash a bit unsettling and worthy of people asking; how could a product like this do more? What kind of adjusting seatpost configuration would you really prefer? I have stated here two times that I think people should ask their favorite component companies to probably figure out ways to have a fully lowering capacity, to help people stay on their bikes. - Just a thought. 

Cheers


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

RASER said:


> b-kul,
> 
> I'm a MTB enthusiast first. I am not here promoting the RASE post that I developed at all. I find everyone talking about how much they still crash a bit unsettling and worthy of people asking; how could a product like this do more? What kind of adjusting seatpost configuration would you really prefer? I have stated here two times that I think people should ask their favorite component companies to probably figure out ways to have a fully lowering capacity, to help people stay on their bikes. - Just a thought.
> 
> Cheers


yes you are, you're just being sneaky about it.  im fairly sure no ones crash has been the direct result of the reverb or any other dropper post. i think the main gripe is how prone the remote is to damage in a crash.


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## highaltitude (Aug 21, 2008)

*Lever replaced by SRAM*

After 3 months and zero rides on my Reverb due to broken lever, I got it fixed up yesterday. SRAM sent a new lever/hose kit which I fitted. Now it works perfectly.

The lever clamp design has changed a little and is now wider (strange choice given how hard it is to find space for this on the bar), and the hose has been upgraded to a much stiffer plastic reinforced version. The original on my Reverb was a plain hose. The barbs on both ends have changed to be slightly longer. The hose attachment is now much more robust with this new hose.

Best place to install seemed to be upside down on the left, inboard of my brakes.


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## jumbodog (Feb 8, 2010)

Can somebody please tell me how long this is?
This is for a 30.9 380mm.

Thanks in advance!


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## larlev (Feb 22, 2009)

7 3/8"


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

This is my 2 week review:

I have been riding about 40 hours over the last 2 weeks now. The first week was great, it was performing flawlessly after a quick bleed. I really appreciate not just full extension and and the lowest position, but the entire spectrum of height as it can give me perfect height for tech climbs, and a reasonable resting height for extended downhills. 

I'm now at the end of week two and it is noticeably more sluggish in compression and extension. I had to sit on the nose of the saddle for it to compress quickly enough, whereas before I could sit wherever I liked to compress it. Thinking it was maybe a bleed issue, I did a quick remote bleed, which yielded no change in performance. 

I've been keeping it clean, and just tonight applied some float fluid I had lying around to the seal, which immediately sped things up. It's giving me a little bit of concern over the service intervals. 

Anyone else having lubrication issues?


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## Diesel~ (Feb 17, 2008)

half_man_half_scab said:


> This is my 2 week review:
> 
> I have been riden about 40 hours over the last 2 weeks now. The first week was great, it was performing flawlessly after a quick bleed. I really appreciate not just full extension and and the lowest position, but the entire spectrum of height as it can give me perfect height for tech climbs, and a reasonable resting height for extended downhills.
> 
> ...


I too have noticed that a little lube goes a long way. I just got some Finish Line stanchion lube, and it is some slick stuff. It does not attract dirt, and it alone made the post about 15% faster up and down.

Probably the most $ per ML I've ever paid for any liquid, so I use it sparingly.

-D


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

*Reverb Actuation Speed (video)*

My reverb's actuation speed got slower over a 3 month period, but since I don't run the speed control full open, I could continue to adjust it. Today, I re-bled it again (in about five minutes). I pulled up relatively hard on the syringe to pull some bubbles out of the system and then waited for them to float to the top of the syringe oil level before going through the push the plunger/syringe iteration. I believe pulling the bubbles out first added to the quality of the bleed. I put a bit of Fox Float Fluid on the post about every other ride to keep it smooth.

-----------------------------------------------
I have one additional question. Today, I pushed down on the seat post and could feel it drop about 1/4 of a millimeter (0.010"). The only way to detect it is to lock your finger around the post and the insertion tube at the silver nut and push down. I'm guessing it has been there all the time, however I was curious if anyone else can detect a very slight vertical movement when weighting the post once it's locked into position. I'm guessing it's a bit of air in the IFP. 
------------------------------------------------

This is the video of the speed of the seat post (five total cycles) with the adjustment in the full open (CW) position versus the full closed position (CCW).


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## ianblaster (May 28, 2010)

Well, I busted my remote today. I had to unclip to dab and my shorts caught the push button. Snap! And it was gone. Anybody had any luck getting a replacement button/plunger? My LBS is so out of touch he had no idea what the reverb was. I doubt he will be much help.


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

Call SRAM, looks like you can get one from them. highaltitude from a few posts ago got one.


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## LoneReaction (May 28, 2010)

larlev said:


> After a few rides with the post I wish the top out could be set within a range. I guess I'm one of the few who have it installed all the way to the aluminum stopper. I need about a 1/4"- 3/8" lower than it allows to pedal properly. I have to bump it down a little everytime..which is not that big of a deal. The post isn't made for XC riding anyway. It would be cool if we could have a little adjustment on where it fully extends. I can't think of a way to make sure it is at the same spot every time.


Man, this sucks! I'm small and even on my small frame, only 150mm of seatpost is out. 195mm is way too much =(


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## Atomik Carbon (Jan 4, 2004)

*Who has best price ??*

What the hell happened to the price, figured it would come down.....instead it has gone the other way. $300 bucks ??

Can get a KS for $220.


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## larlev (Feb 22, 2009)

LoneReaction said:


> Man, this sucks! I'm small and even on my small frame, only 150mm of seatpost is out. 195mm is way too much =(


I have called PUSH and they are looking at a fix. I did try the fishing line idea and it works pretty well. Every so often the line gets tangled in the seatpost clamp. All in all it is a good post....they can't make it to please everyone. They will come out with something..hopefully


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

YaMon said:


> What the hell happened to the price, figured it would come down.....instead it has gone the other way. $300 bucks ??
> 
> Can get a KS for $220.


Like everything else in the world, they will charge what the market will pay. And people are paying.


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## LoneReaction (May 28, 2010)

larlev said:


> I have called PUSH and they are looking at a fix. I did try the fishing line idea and it works pretty well. Every so often the line gets tangled in the seatpost clamp. All in all it is a good post....they can't make it to please everyone. They will come out with something..hopefully


Hmm. I think I'll start a thread to see what shorter riders think of the reverb. Too much of a risk for me seeing that I'm a good 2-3" short of the min height.


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## jumbodog (Feb 8, 2010)

I am also on the short side  and I know that the reverb will be too long for my size, I have a small 09 Trance X3, since the reverbs post that goes in the seat tube is 7 3/8" (thanks to larlev) and the X3's tube is about 6.5 inches it will be sticking out at least 2 inches plus the 5 inches of travel will too long for me. 

I was looking at the ks i950r 300mm 75mm drop. Does anybody have this size for the ks? I want to know how long the inner post is, its the one that goes in the seat tube (black tube).


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## Neily03 (Feb 27, 2010)

jumbodog said:


> I was looking at the ks i950r 300mm 75mm drop. Does anybody have this size for the ks? I want to know how long the inner post is, its the one that goes in the seat tube (black tube).


I've got one at home, will measure it when I finish work in an hour or so.


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## 2w4s (Mar 20, 2005)

LoneReaction said:


> Hmm. I think I'll start a thread to see what shorter riders think of the reverb. Too much of a risk for me seeing that I'm a good 2-3" short of the min height.


how tall are you? I'm 5'5 1/2" and am running a reverb on a speci pitch and have no issues.


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## LoneReaction (May 28, 2010)

2w4s said:


> how tall are you? I'm 5'5 1/2" and am running a reverb on a speci pitch and have no issues.


I'm 162cm/5'4". On a Santacruz Chameleon.

Crappy phone pic:
Highest I go is around 150mm.
It's only about 140mm in the picture.










*Ok, I must have been an idiot.* It has been raining continuously the last few days, so I didn't get to go out. This morning it stopped raining and I cycled around my neighbourhood. Set the saddle at around 200mm, seems to be ok.


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## Neily03 (Feb 27, 2010)

jumbodog said:


> I was looking at the ks i950r 300mm 75mm drop. Does anybody have this size for the ks? I want to know how long the inner post is, its the one that goes in the seat tube (black tube).


145mm from the bottom to where it gets wider just below the red collar.


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

half_man_half_scab said:


> This is my 2 week review:
> 
> I have been riding about 40 hours over the last 2 weeks now. The first week was great, it was performing flawlessly after a quick bleed. I really appreciate not just full extension and and the lowest position, but the entire spectrum of height as it can give me perfect height for tech climbs, and a reasonable resting height for extended downhills.
> 
> ...


Noticed decreasing performance again, so I inspected the whole system. Found a little bit of fluid on the hose near the remote barb. Turns out, there was a tiny nick on the cable. Cut off a few mils of hose and did a remote bleed, now it's faster than ever. I'm a happy camper again.


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## Archangel (Jan 15, 2004)

Received mine (31.6 x 380) a few weeks ago and installed it last weekend.
The lever is very sluggish and when I press it, NOTHING happens. The post doesn't go down at all (of course did this when sitting on the saddle). Nice.  

I would need to shorten the hose anyway so I'll tune that and will do the bleeding. Hopefully it'll work after that...


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## mitja (Jan 12, 2006)

Finally SRAM released 4 videos (with 5th on the way) how to service/bleed/shorten Reverb:


















Hope it will help someone in trouble...


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

Oh, so that's what those o-rings were for. I am dumb.


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## LoneReaction (May 28, 2010)

mitja said:


> Finally SRAM released 4 videos (with 5th on the way) how to service/bleed/shorten Reverb:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


How do you go about estimating the required tightening force without tools? Hand tight?


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

I am having a little trouble in paradise! My Reverb just completely dropped on me while i was riding. I dont have enough fluid to rebleed (my buddy used it to lube the seals on his fork) the system and no one has any 2.5 locally to me. I also did notice that there was some fluid at the bottom of the seat post and inside my seat post tube! i can now just pull the post in and out with out any resistance


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## Evan55 (Jul 23, 2009)

ugh....I really thought Rockshox could have gotten this thing right on the first try. 
Its clear that a large number of these are either completely DOA on arrival (even after bleeding which you should not have to do anyway) or fail very quickly

this thing is a complete POS, I wish I wasnt past the return period on mine and Im not looking forward to dealing with rockshox. if they pull that "only through a dealer" crap Im going to scream

my Kindshock has been going strong under abuse for almost a year. why didnt I just stick to what works...


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Evan55 said:


> ugh....I really thought Rockshox could have gotten this thing right on the first try.
> Its clear that a large number of these are either completely DOA on arrival (even after bleeding which you should not have to do anyway) or fail very quickly
> 
> this thing is a complete POS, I wish I wasnt past the return period on mine and Im not looking forward to dealing with rockshox. if they pull that "only through a dealer" crap Im going to scream
> ...


Bit of an exaggeration here. Every product has failures. I've seen plenty on the Kind Shock. It's been perfect for myself and a lot of others, and I'm a pretty big guy. Besides, I'm sure SRAM will take care of you. Is it really that hard to go through a bike shop for warranty?

BTW, Darkstar why would you let your friend use your Reverb oil as lube?


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

Well i ended up getting my hands on some 2.5 oil! but multiple bleeds and still not working!



BaeckerX1 said:


> BTW, Darkstar why would you let your friend use your Reverb oil as lube?


He was in a rush to take the spacers out of his Reba and needed some suspension fluid and asked if he could use it lol!


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## twowheelsdown2002 (Oct 26, 2004)

Me and my girlfriend just got these posts, and they work great.:thumbsup: 

Just don't think you are going to mount them and ride. Neither of ours would even move out of the box, but no big deal, that is why they come with a bleed kit. The people that whine and cry because they won't work out of the box just need to take the time to bleed them first. 

I had my girlfriend help me, and it literally takes 5 minutes to do a double end bleed. One syringe at the post, one at the remote. Push the fluid back and forth from syringe to syringe. Cap them off and ride. It really is Forest Gump easy to do.

Both of ours work smooth. Time will tell on the durability. 

I'll say it again, "Bleed them before you use them!" And don't wast time just doing the one syringe bleed. The 2 syringe bleed is super easy and more effective.


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

Here is a video of what im talking about


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

Darkstar187 said:


> Well i ended up getting my hands on some 2.5 oil! but multiple bleeds and still not working!
> 
> He was in a rush to take the spacers out of his Reba and needed some suspension fluid and asked if he could use it lol!


The bleed you're doing only effects the actuation hydraulics of the post. It's external to the seatpost internals.
It appears your post itself has failed. Probably a failed seal since you're loosing fluid (and air?) out the bottom of the post.
Post is still under warranty...

Nice looking Nomad...


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## istvisinet (May 20, 2008)

After 2 months I have got the same problem as Darkstar. SRAM sent my LBS a rebuild kit in hopes that will fix the problem. Now just and waiting on my LBS to do the rebuild. Hopefully this solves the problem and it doesn't happen again. BTW, I had to bleed the remote a number of times over past 2 months to keep it operating nice and quick.


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

Yeah, I'm on my 3rd bleed so far in less than a month. I can't detect any leaks in the remote line, however, I pulled the post and noticed fluid inside the base around the 250psi cap, though I had assumed that was just slop from my full system bleed when I didn't wrap a towel around the post. There was a strange methagenous odor inside the seat tube as well. 

After surveying people on the trail, it seems like I have much higher standards on return speed than average joe. 

If I have to bleed it again I'm going to call SRAM. Mainly because the suspension fluid is pretty gnarly. I've been good about keeping it off my skin and hosing the offending areas down with isopropyl after a bleed, but the fumes alone make me sick. 

Could you let me know how you rebuild goes, istvisinet, and how much it ends up costing?


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## istvisinet (May 20, 2008)

I will do a follow-up post with the results. One thing is for sure, I am not expecting to be charged anything, nor will I pay anything, since the post is only 2 month old.


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Has anyone rebuilt a Reverb on their own? How difficult is it? Any videos? The KS rebuild looks easy as pie and is the front runner for my $200 at this point. I like the looks, weight and seat clamp on the Reverb better but if I have to mail it off every time I need it serviced, no go...


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Like I said in the other thread, there doesn't appear to be much that can be serviced on the Reverb. The service kit includes the main wiper seal, a set of keys/bushings at the base and the schrader valve. The hydraulic piston itself is listed as non-serviceable.


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

car_nut said:


> Like I said in the other thread, there doesn't appear to be much that can be serviced on the Reverb. The service kit includes the main wiper seal, a set of keys/bushings at the base and the schrader valve. The hydraulic piston itself is listed as non-serviceable.


I'm not discounting what you said, I just want to see pics of someone doing it. I'm a visual learner:thumbsup:


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Well, so far I believe SRAM's general stance is that _nothing_ is serviceable on the Reverb. I just figured that since they listed an exploded view with the PN's we might one day have access to the necessary parts.


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

Well my post is going to Sram for warranty! Ill let you guys know what they say!


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## LoneReaction (May 28, 2010)

Darkstar187 said:


> Well my post is going to Sram for warranty! Ill let you guys know what they say!


Thanks :thumbsup:

Bought th 420mm (30.9) instead of the 380mm because it was the only one left in stock.. and the lbs says new stock comes in 3 months. :madman: (Can't buy online, live in Asia and buying from US = no warranty) Oh well, I'll cycle more to lose that 40grams from my body instead. 

Going to fix it up when I get my bicycle back from servicing, and post pics.


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## LoneReaction (May 28, 2010)

Oh man, my handle bar ran out of space (can't move in controls more because of bar diameter). Probably have to cut my 90mm grips down to 70mm.

Anyone using gripshifts too?

Not enough space!









After cutting grips..









Shortened the hose. Didn't have to bleed, even after shortening.
My S size bicycle now weighs 13.8kg/30 pounds. LOL


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## psychof (Oct 10, 2010)

tma said:


> Guys,
> Here's a couple of shots of my reverb and the routing I've made for the Giant Reign 2.
> ...
> DOWN


Is everything still working OK for you? That routing looks dangerous! In a German MTB Forum someone reported that his cable broke with a similar routing. Right where the cable is coming out of the seatpost it broke. I wouldn't bend it so extrem!


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## kibbs (Jun 8, 2009)

Agree psychof I think it will break eventually it does not take much. I have already had to replace one my ignorance was to put the guide on the silver collar barely touched the bottom of the hose cover and done.


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## MB24 (Apr 5, 2007)

Got my Reverb today. The thing wouldn't move at all. Performed the full bleed (like after replacing the hose). I only saw a couple of small bubbles come out, but now it works fine. Good thing they include the bleed kit with the post!


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## istvisinet (May 20, 2008)

*Reverb back on the trail.*



istvisinet said:


> I will do a follow-up post with the results. One thing is for sure, I am not expecting to be charged anything, nor will I pay anything, since the post is only 2 month old.


SRAM initially set my LBS a replacement hose for the remote which did not fix the problem, so they then just send a new replacement post and swapped out my original one no charge. This is exactly why I waited to get the reverb instead of pulling the trigger on the KS i950. I am confidant in SRAM's customer service.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

psychof said:


> Is everything still working OK for you? That routing looks dangerous! In a German MTB Forum someone reported that his cable broke with a similar routing. Right where the cable is coming out of the seatpost it broke. I wouldn't bend it so extrem!


Not only that, but those knobbies should start to grab the hose at about 1/2 shock compression, let alone full bottom.


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

Looks like ill be getting a new post! should be here sometime this week..


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## boude (Nov 18, 2010)

this day in my house :


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

You can see that the hose in that photo is now changed to a hydraulic hose from the piece of crap single ply hose they had originally. I called them up thinking the old hose was causing me to have to bleed every couple months to preserve my speed and they did say they have gone away from the old style to hydraulic hose/fittings and I could have my LBS order in the replacement which I did. Should be here end of week or early next. I believe/assume this is all under warranty. Just a heads up, folks.


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## Evan55 (Jul 23, 2009)

So those of you who have had these replaced/serviced under warranty, did you have to go through a LBS or will RockShox actually work with you directly?


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## boude (Nov 18, 2010)

the hose is 2.00 mm / 5mm like a brake hose


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## istvisinet (May 20, 2008)

Boude, how did you get the rebuild/seal kit stuff. SRAM told my lbs that they have not had any problems with the posts other than the need to bleed them and there were not any rebuild kits/instructions available so they just sent out a new post to replace my dead one.


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## istvisinet (May 20, 2008)

Evan55 said:


> So those of you who have had these replaced/serviced under warranty, did you have to go through a LBS or will RockShox actually work with you directly?


When I initially called SRAM I got the usual response which was I had to take the product to my LBS. SRAM would not deal with a non-reseller. Even though I love SRAM's customer service, this is one are that really pisses me off.


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## nixgame22 (Apr 10, 2008)

I talked to my by LBS about buying a replacement hose, as mine was too short for what I wanted to do. The SRAM person said they were updating the hose from the previous verions (as posted above), and sent me a new hose kit no charge.
SRAM rocks :thumbsup:


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## boude (Nov 18, 2010)

This kit is sold by my rochshox dealer


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I've been inspired to warranty my post. Customer service said they'll send out a new line. I don't see how upgrading the housing would resolve fluid seeping out from the bottom recess of the post, but it couldn't hurt. Updates as I go!


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

*Customer service?*



half_man_half_scab said:


> I've been inspired to warranty my post. Customer service said they'll send out a new line. I don't see how upgrading the housing would resolve fluid seeping out from the bottom recess of the post, but it couldn't hurt. Updates as I go!


Was this with customer service at RS? Or through the location you bought the post?

I got mine from Universal. Mines had to be topped off a half dozen times to keep it up to speed like some others here. I contacted them via email. Waiting to see if they can source the warranty parts for me as well.


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## Evan55 (Jul 23, 2009)

Im going to flip my LID if RS wont deal with me directly. 
This thing has been a POS since I unwrapped it from the box, and considering I bought it online its a serious dick move to expect me to go to an LBS and ask them to spend their time to service a part I bought somewhere else. Not even mentioning the time and hassle when they could just send me the damn parts directly.


I have 3 RockShox products, 2 of them have come broken out of the box, and the other broke after 1 ride. Screw this company. Screw them in the ear.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Glad you guys got yours sorted. How would I go about getting the new, better quality replacement hose if mine is still working fine? I mean I did have to bleed it once (not counting initial bleed), but I thought that was just because of the cold weather. Will that be enough for them to replace the hose for me? It just kind of sucks to have the crappier hose if they're selling them with a better quality one now. I guess I could go to a shop and ask, but I did buy it online since no shops could get any when it first came out.

Still, I'm very happy with the Reverb so far. I can't really complain too much as mine has worked pretty flawlessly so far.


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

gotta say all this talk is making me a little nervous. for the couple rides i had on it my reverb was great but now im getting kinda worried what will happen when i start riding again more frequently.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

b-kul said:


> gotta say all this talk is making me a little nervous. for the couple rides i had on it my reverb was great but now im getting kinda worried what will happen when i start riding again more frequently.


What are you worried about? The few who have had problems are a very vocal minority. And most of them have already been taken care of by SRAM with new posts. If you do have an issue, SRAM should take care of you. I wouldn't worry if you're not having any issues. Just go ride.

Mine's been fine, but I wouldn't mind a thicker, less flexy hose though if they're making them now.


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

i know its just that it starts to creep into your mind yanno?


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

b-kul said:


> gotta say all this talk is making me a little nervous. for the couple rides i had on it my reverb was great but now im getting kinda worried what will happen when i start riding again more frequently.


It's just the nature of the beast. Lots of start up issues for most manufacturers and we're all paying for being on the bleeding edge. 
Today was my 75th ride on my mine with no serious issues. At this point, I'd say there is a bit more fore-aft play in the tube/housing fit but it's a very small amount. Additionally, if I push down on the post it will settle about .010" before locking solid. It may have done this from day one, or it may be a minor amount of mixing of nitrogen and oil in the IFP that is causing it. It too is insignificant and neither can be felt when riding. Basically, the post is still as smooth, quiet and functional as it was on the first ride. When it finally fails, I'll have to consider the cost of having it serviced, versus purchasing a new one.


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## larlev (Feb 22, 2009)

Nothing is perfect....b-kul. No need to worry


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

They're shipping me a new one. Just have to wait for the storms to blow over.


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## DHperu (Apr 14, 2005)

Well it seems that I too am one of the unlucky people to recieve a non functioning reverb.
I got my post today, bought it online in the USA and had it shipped to me in Lima, Peru. the thing was stuck at full length with absolutly no budge at all. already having dealt with brand new RS products not working correctly out of the box, i wasnt suprised. i was surprised though that after 8 bleeds my post STILL has absolutly no movement. The trigger was also very stiff and on one occasion had the crappy hose jump off the trigger from the pressure. 

Does anybody have an idea what could be going wrong with the post? the trigger is extremely stiff as if wherever the oil is supposed to displace is not going there, hence the hose jumping off episode. 

im totally angry and bummed after waiting so long that this thing doesn't work. 

BTW all bleeds were done by the book according to the sram vids on youtube.


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

Sounds like the main valve in the post is stuck. Not a good thing for sure! 

CS to the rescue.... hopefully!


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## DHperu (Apr 14, 2005)

I had to wait almost two months from the time i purchased the post and it finally got to my hands, has anyone taken apart a reverb, maybe i can fix it without having to send it back to the US, spending more money and losing more time...


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## Lev (Oct 12, 2004)

Just broke off the cob webs today and rode around some of the local trails. I noticed my Reverb slowed down significantly during the winter hibernation. I'm thinking a lot of us are going to be bleeding our lines to get the season kicked off


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

My warranty hose is on it's way.

Sounds like RS is expecting a lot of calls on the old expanding housing. I contacted Universal Cycles about my issue and the fellow on the other end of the computer said they have a bunch of warranty hoses sitting just waiting for the calls. Contacted them one day, shipped out the next! No charge for the part or the shipping! Sweet!

Definately contact where you purchased your post from and inquire about the hose. RS seems to be on top of the issue.


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## Archangel (Jan 15, 2004)

DHperu said:


> Well it seems that I too am one of the unlucky people to recieve a non functioning reverb.
> I got my post today, bought it online in the USA and had it shipped to me in Lima, Peru. the thing was stuck at full length with absolutly no budge at all. already having dealt with brand new RS products not working correctly out of the box, i wasnt suprised. i was surprised though that after 8 bleeds my post STILL has absolutly no movement. The trigger was also very stiff and on one occasion had the crappy hose jump off the trigger from the pressure.
> 
> Does anybody have an idea what could be going wrong with the post? the trigger is extremely stiff as if wherever the oil is supposed to displace is not going there, hence the hose jumping off episode.
> ...


My post seems to suffer from similar fault. Just bled it and it won't move at all. 
I bought mine from ChainReactionCycles in the UK. Will contact them and ask for a replacement or refund. Maybe the upcoming Fox post could be worth to wait...

UPDATE: I bled the remote with a quick bleed for the second time and lo and behold - it started to work!


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## ianblaster (May 28, 2010)

I agree about SRAM/RS being on top of things. I broke my remote push button off after my front wheel washed out on me and I had to unclip and dab to save it. I somehow managed to catch my shorts on the button and SNAP! My LBS got them to warranty it and I got a whole new seatpost because they don't have small parts available yet except the new upgraded hose kit which they also sent with it. I was impressed with their willingness to win over a customer. By the way, I had mine mounted underneath on the left side of the bars. Not so sure that is a better place to put it than on top in the right.


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

this is why I love my mechanical GD post!!! Thank you all for confirming my concerns!! 

FWIW to anyone who cares, KS is going to be releasing a 150mm travel post sometime in the near future, YAAAAAY!


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## 274898 (Nov 29, 2005)

Just got mine. It looks quality. Totally digging the hydraulic remote. Mine looks like it was bled fine. Post pops up quickly but haven't given it the full test. It is really nice that it came with a bleed kit. I think Rock Shox did their homework and made a very competitive post. It weighs more than advertised. Mine came in at 540 grams on the digital scale but definitely not a deal breaker.


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## morandi (Jun 20, 2008)

I have been having great luck with my reverb. It ultimately has been performing really well. Needed a remote bleed, but other than that not much else. I think my post has the old style housing though, I'm not sure.
The one thing that is key to performance is the level of torque on the seatpost clamp. I mounted my post using friction paste so I didn't have to clamp down on the bolt so much. Too much pressure and the post feels sticky and slow. I would stay away from a quick release collar, as it would be hard to judge the level of torque. 
Does anybody know if you can just use an aftermarket hydraulic hose, or is the revrb hose different?


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## 2w4s (Mar 20, 2005)

morandi said:


> I have been having great luck with my reverb. It ultimately has been performing really well. Needed a remote bleed, but other than that not much else. I think my post has the old style housing though, I'm not sure.
> The one thing that is key to performance is the level of torque on the seatpost clamp. I mounted my post using friction paste so I didn't have to clamp down on the bolt so much. Too much pressure and the post feels sticky and slow. I would stay away from a quick release collar, as it would be hard to judge the level of torque.
> Does anybody know if you can just use an aftermarket hydraulic hose, or is the revrb hose different?


I noticed the same thing about the seatpost clamp torque, i went to a non qr style and friction paste and just clamp it tight enough to keep the seat from rotating and it makes a huge difference in the seatpost performance.

I've had my post for going on 3 months and I've had to re-bleed it once after the initial set up. Looking back, i don't think the performance had declined I just realized that the speed of the action was slower than others so I'm guessing i still had a little bit of air in the line after the initial bleed (that was needed out of the box  ). There is also a bit of side to side play in the seat but I don't notice it at all.

anyhow, I don't have any experience with other posts but so far I'm really happy with the reverb, I am going to get the new update hose though.


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## crips (Jan 9, 2007)

Archangel said:


> . Maybe the upcoming Fox post could be worth to wait...


Any rumors about when it will be available?


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

I had a go of the Reverb yesterday and also a CB Joplin, I am currently swaying more towards the KS i950 or the Fox when it arrives...


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

2W4S---My new warranty hose looks like normal hydraulic hose but it also came with differrent barbs to change out. FYI.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

BMJ said:


> My warranty hose is on it's way.
> 
> Sounds like RS is expecting a lot of calls on the old expanding housing. I contacted Universal Cycles about my issue and the fellow on the other end of the computer said they have a bunch of warranty hoses sitting just waiting for the calls. Contacted them one day, shipped out the next! No charge for the part or the shipping! Sweet!
> 
> Definately contact where you purchased your post from and inquire about the hose. RS seems to be on top of the issue.


Thanks for that bit of information. :thumbsup: I ordered mine from Universal as well. I'll be contacting them today.

According to SRAM, you'll have to replace the hose barbs when you replace with the new hose. It sounds simple enough, that they just thread in. We'll see. I wish they had some better freaking diagrams or photos though.

http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs...nt and System Bleed 95-4215-002-000 Rev A.pdf


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## presslab (Jan 5, 2007)

*Mini-review*

I've taken my new Reverb on two rides so far. I bought the 31.6/420 model.

Just out of the box, there was oil everywhere and it didn't compress. No biggie, the included bleed kit made it easy to bleed the remote and I needed to cut the hose anyway. A little bit of play in the post, but not noticable while riding. The seat clamp is a very nice two-bolt design. The hose barb at the remote seems a little hokey. The build quality is overall good.

First ride tests were very good. The post is smooth and quiet. If your weight is all the way at the rear of the seat it does bind up but all my dropper posts did this to some extent. After this ride I noticed the silver collar where the seal is mounted had loosened up. I tightened it and it seems fine so far.

So far very pleased! If the bushings were a bit tighter and the hose setup a bit better (I know they have a new one now) I would rate this 10/10.

Here is a pic of how I kept the hose from hitting my leg while in the compressed position, you can see I used a bit of bungee cord to tie the hose back:


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

presslab said:


> Just out of the box, there was oil everywhere and it didn't compress.


They really need to do something about that bottle of oil they include in the box. It's problematic, especially since they have to be shipped in the mail to the LBS or the customer who orders online. They need something that seals better. Not sure if this was the same case for you, but my bottle had leaked out a bunch of oil and this was the reason my box had oil everywhere. I can't even put it in a ziploc bag in my toolbox because if it's not completely upright it spills everywhere. I had a bunch of oil in the bag. It's strong smelling stuff too and it wants to get all over everything, so it's not pleasant to clean up. It wouldn't really be all that hard to use a better bottle in there, or put some kind of seal on it that you have to peel off first. Even a Nesquick bottle would work better. =/

It's not a deal breaker, and doesn't affect what I think about the post, but damn, crap like this is easy to fix. I don't like the idea that I lost half of my replacement fluid in the mail and I had to clean up a bunch of oil either. :madman:


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

BMJ said:


> My warranty hose is on it's way.
> 
> Sounds like RS is expecting a lot of calls on the old expanding housing. I contacted Universal Cycles about my issue and the fellow on the other end of the computer said they have a bunch of warranty hoses sitting just waiting for the calls. Contacted them one day, shipped out the next! No charge for the part or the shipping! Sweet!
> 
> Definately contact where you purchased your post from and inquire about the hose. RS seems to be on top of the issue.


Mine is in the mail as well. I also had a quick and easy experience from Universal. I just talked to someone for a few minutes in the online chat, and one was sent at no charge with no questions asked. Good for them and SRAM for handling this the way they have. :thumbsup:


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I got my warrantied post in today with less than a week turnaround to boot! Right off the bat I was saddened to see that it did not include the new tubing. But after a bleed it worked about as well as the last one. Seems this one has less play. Time will tell if it keeps the fluid where it should be. My last one leaked from the bottom near the valve, which was the cause for my warranty. I am very sensitive to the suspension fluid they use. The fumes alone make me dizzy and sometimes give me stomach trouble, despite my nitrile gloves and Howard Hughes-like cleaning of everything with isopropyl. I would advise those with leakage issues to be very careful, as this stuff is gnarly. Strange, as I do not have similar issues with the suspension fluids in the forks I service. 

I think I'll ***** to someone until they give me a new hose, and then hopefully I can have peace of mind.


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## Bati (Sep 25, 2005)

Has anybody made a maintainance? What's the function of the pins i marked in the pic? Isn't a way to "adjust" the bushing play?


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## Tuff Gong (May 8, 2009)

Bati said:


> Has anybody made a maintainance? What's the function of the pins i marked in the pic? Isn't a way to "adjust" the bushing play?


Does that say "Key" on the description? I'd take a guess and say those are keys used to keep the post from spinning. I see slots on various pieces such as the one in the diagram left of said keys and I'll bet there are straight grooves length wise(keyways?) inside part 4, the outer lower seatpost.

The keys probably stay with the inner lower collar assembly as they slide in their respective keyway slots inside the lower post.

Side to side bushing play is probably tough to fine tune with the way the Reverb is designed with the long adjustment range. ie, the bottom bushing assembly of the inner post, where the pins are, comes up and against the outer collar/bushing/seal assembly of the lower post at full extension and doesn't offer enough side to side control as all the bushing/collars that probably supports the side control, are now too close together. Lower the post and the play decreases. Make any of these bushings tighter (if thats even feasible) to fight play at full extension, etc. and you'll probably increase the chance of binding issues. Does that make any sense?:skep:

Keep in mind that all this nonsense is just a guess from looking at the diagram so theres a 99% chance I'm wrong


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

I read somewhere in the SRAM website in regards to these keys that if you order replacement keys for repair, there are three different sized sets. Use of all matching keys in one of the three sets would balance tolorences between function and play. I've serviced Cannondale HeadShoks and Lefty's before and they use a similar system for tightening tolorences in their product. It's feasable that with the three sets, one could find a snugger fit amungst them. This may also minimize for-aft play as well.


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## Tuff Gong (May 8, 2009)

BMJ said:


> I read somewhere in the SRAM website in regards to these keys that if you order replacement keys for repair, there are three different sized sets. Use of all matching keys in one of the three sets would balance tolorences between function and play. I've serviced Cannondale HeadShoks and Lefty's before and they use a similar system for tightening tolorences in their product. It's feasable that with the three sets, one could find a snugger fit amungst them. This may also minimize for-aft play as well.


Well there you go, I stand corrected Thats cool if SRAM offers replacement parts, makes me wonder how serviceable these posts are. Having read about the high pressures and the unknown technical aspects, I thought any service attempt by say an above average do it your selfer at home would not be possible for things such as replacing these pins. It would be really cool if we can.

I guess we'll learn more about it in due time.


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

*keys*

Here's a pic that was on the last page posted by another user.

You can see three different key sizes in the pic.


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

Joe Lawwill can be seen ripping the Fontana Super D on a Blur LTC and a Reverb:






The part that I found interesting is that it looks as if the Reverb was set high with the adj tube all the way in, as if in this course Lawwill had no intention to use it. (Surely, how it's set on the video makes further extension unlikely.) Kind of interesting way to set it up when no need to change the post and wanting absolutely no play and greater strength?


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## Tuff Gong (May 8, 2009)

polymathic said:


> Joe Lawwill can be seen ripping the Fontana Super D on a Blur LTC and a Reverb:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good eye, that is interesting.

Another interesting thing is the placement of his remote. I can't clearly see it but it seems like he has it set up on the left side with the plunger facing forward and down . Seems like it's set up to be like a trigger for the index finger but I can't be sure. You can kind of see where the clamp screw and hydro cable adjustment collar is during the cockpit view


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

I got my new post from Universal Cycles! they are great guys over there! Sram ended up sending me a whole new unit! like noted before it had the new hose installed on it.. I am wondering if that that light hosed used on the first model was expanding from the pressure... there for increasing the ID of the hose causing space or air or enough room to slow the post down.


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## kjsayers (Jun 5, 2008)

I ordered a Reverb the other day and should get it next week. I have a question for those 575 owners that have a Reverb on cable routing...how'd ya do it?


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## RSMarco (Mar 7, 2008)

Fitted my Reverb yesterday to the Nomad C. Initially it was sooooooo slow to extend and I had to keep pressing the remote to get it to extend. Decided to try the remote bleed which was ok but I found it difficult to pull on the syringe whilst pressing the remote. There was quite a vacuum there..?

Anyway, I think there is still some air in the hose and I was surprised how much there was but it seems to of helped and the return and compression is much quicker now.

I need to work out the best routing for the cable now and where to mount the remote, then I will shorten the hose and attempt the two syringe method to try and remove as much air as possible.

Thanks to all who have made this thread so useful..!

Mark


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I installed the new beefier hose today. Did it exceptionally quick with all my bleed practices thus far. 

Holy cow is this thing fast now! Almost painfully fast at fully speed. Whole new animal. If you don't already have the new hose, get it, you won't regret it! It's a lot less flexible so I'm going to need to rethink the routing. 

The new warrantied post is not leaking after 10 hrs ride time. 

Pretty stoked.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

I recently picked up a reverb but I don't know if I have the new hose or not. Does it have a different outer diameter from the original hose so I can just check it quick with some calipers or would I have to take it off to tell the difference? 

Secondly, I'm not seeing any 'official' statement on SRAM's website about the reverb hose warranty. I guess this doesn't matter? I only ask because I've seen other things on this website from people stating certain items are under warranty only to be shot down by my LBS. It's not that I don't believe people on these forums, I do, it just seems like my LBS always seems to need a little more 'coaxing' to go through with warranty claims.


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

*Hose differences,.*



Laterilus said:


> I recently picked up a reverb but I don't know if I have the new hose or not. Does it have a different outer diameter from the original hose so I can just check it quick with some calipers or would I have to take it off to tell the difference?
> 
> Secondly, I'm not seeing any 'official' statement on SRAM's website about the reverb hose warranty. I guess this doesn't matter? I only ask because I've seen other things on this website from people stating certain items are under warranty only to be shot down by my LBS. It's not that I don't believe people on these forums, I do, it just seems like my LBS always seems to need a little more 'coaxing' to go through with warranty claims.


The original hose was a smooth skinny hose, like a black straw. Very springing as well. The new hose is just like a brake line. It's textured due to a wrap under the black coating and is on the stiff side. I don't know of the dimensional difference though.

As far as warranty. When I contacted Universal Cycles, they knew exactly what my issue was and had a stock pile of replacement hoses all ready supplied to them from RS for this warranty issue. No charge in shipping or parts.

It's not a safety issue but more of an inconsistancy issue with their product. RS probably figures that not all owners are gonna care to chase down this issue.


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## 274898 (Nov 29, 2005)

mitja said:


> Here it is: weight of out of the box RS Reverb in 31.6 380mm


Shoot! Yours weighs 3 grams less than mine........Mine weighs 540grams. I am gonna be so much slower than you. Haha.

Anybody have a picture of new hose and old hose? I am unsure what one I have. I was thinking of replacing with Avid brake hose.


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I think that you may run into difficulties trying to use an avid hose because the stock hose barbs are thicker than the warranty replacement hose barbs. The ID of the hose, and consequently, hose barb diameter, was reduced significantly in the warranty.


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## ianblaster (May 28, 2010)

Here is the old hose (installed) next to the new hose. Notice the old style hose is shiny whereas the new hose is dull like a brake line.








Here is a cross section shot of the new hose. Notice the double wall with the inner being white. It is also quite rigid whereas the old is rather flexible and flembsy feeling.








And here is the new hose kit. Comes with hose, barbs, and strain relief.


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## RSMarco (Mar 7, 2008)

Are Rockshox giving you these hoses anyway or do you have to contact them and ask for one?


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

I installed my new hose kit last night (finally got around to it). I gotta say, the actual installation isn't complicated, but damn if that new hose isn't difficult to push onto those new barbs. OMG. Even with wrapping a rag around the cable and then using pliers to push it on, I still marked the hose a bit with the pliers. I rocked it back and forth and spun it while pushing it on like SRAM's instructions, but it still was a pain. 

The new hose seems a lot better, but since it's stiffer it doesn't flex as well as the old one. I had to train it a bit to bow at the back before it would go down without pushing the cable all the way to the front and making a big bow at the bars.  Once I did that it worked well.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

RSMarco said:


> Are Rockshox giving you these hoses anyway or do you have to contact them and ask for one?


I'm in the same boat as BMJ. I got mine from Universal Cycles. I just did the online chat with them for a minute and he was like "You need the new hose kit? Alright I'll send one out." That was that. Got mine no charge and no shipping cost. Like BMJ said it seemed like they got a bunch from SRAM to replace under warranty and just had them waiting to ship out to people who called. I'd contact the place where you bought it and ask about it. If they give you any flak, just say you've been having to bleed it far too often.


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

So you think having a bow in the back is preferred? I've never had tire rub issues with this setup, but I have had issues with the strain relief rotating when the hose bows in the back, and it's caused some clearance issues with the silver collar. I've tried for a while to get it to slide forward, and can get it to do so about 60% of the time. But any micro change in my cable guide setup, grit or something, and it won't slide. Yeah it was a b'autch and a half trying to get the line on the post, the remote was relatively easy.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

half_man_half_scab said:


> So you think having a bow in the back is preferred? I've never had tire rub issues with this setup, but I have had issues with the strain relief rotating when the hose bows in the back, and it's caused some clearance issues with the silver collar. I've tried for a while to get it to slide forward, and can get it to do so about 60% of the time. But any micro change in my cable guide setup, grit or something, and it won't slide. Yeah it was a b'autch and a half trying to get the line on the post, the remote was relatively easy.


It really depends on how your cable routing is and what the bow is like. If it's not too drastic and isn't a sharp bend, I'd rather have it do that than be constantly sliding through all the cable guides and wearing the cable over time. I have adjustable seatpost cable guides on my frame. The way they're setup the bow doesn't appear to be that bad. It doesn't seem to cause any issues at the strain relief or collar. I'm actually going around the back of the frame from the one side to the cable guides on the other side. I'll try and post a pic when I get home. Yours might be a different situation. Every bike is going to be different.

I also don't want a big loop of cable flopping around at the front of my bike whenever I lower the post.


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

*having trouble*

Had a reverb since mid november. It was working perfectly, then it began to slow down significantly. I bled it just as I had when I shortened the hose after initial install. No bubbles in system. However, now the seat post wont go all the way up unless I lift it. AND, it now moves down about 1/2 inch when weighted. Bled it again and still no air in system. I called the shop for new hose and its on the way. After bleed, same problems as before except now I notice that after I fully compress it, I can easily pull it all the way back up. It moves back down on its own after I let go.

Does this sound like just the hose problem or am I in need of a new post?


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## mtblucas (Apr 28, 2010)

I'm looking at getting the Reverb. The reason I really am drawn to this post is that it has 0 offset which I MUST have since, apparently, I have short femurs. Anyway, I have looked at different brands and haven't found any others that offer an adjustable post with 0 offset. Does anyone know of any??

Thanks


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## eiri (Oct 11, 2009)

mtblucas said:


> I'm looking at getting the Reverb. The reason I really am drawn to this post is that it has 0 offset which I MUST have since, apparently, I have short femurs. Anyway, I have looked at different brands and haven't found any others that offer an adjustable post with 0 offset. Does anyone know of any??
> 
> Thanks


The GravityDropper


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## spokeywheeler (Dec 1, 2006)

mtblucas said:


> I'm looking at getting the Reverb. The reason I really am drawn to this post is that it has 0 offset which I MUST have since, apparently, I have short femurs. Anyway, I have looked at different brands and haven't found any others that offer an adjustable post with 0 offset. Does anyone know of any??
> 
> Thanks


I have the exact opposite problem! I pulled the trigger on the Reverb after weeks of consideration and when I got it home and mounted it up I couldn't get my saddle positioned far enough back in the clamp...darn! Nothing much to do, I don't want to change my saddle position or my saddle so the Reverb had to go back to the store. Too bad, I was really looking forward to the new post. Back to my Joplin for now.

As for other zero offset posts, the KSi950 has a two bolt zero offset saddle clamp.


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

*bad news*

Well, I found out the answer to my question -- Seatpost is fried. Half way in to my ride yesterday, it went all the way down on its own and stayed there. I spoke with BikeBling where it was purchased and they were great. However, I'm likely without a seatpost for a few weeks.


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## istvisinet (May 20, 2008)

mtblucas said:


> I'm looking at getting the Reverb. The reason I really am drawn to this post is that it has 0 offset which I MUST have since, apparently, I have short femurs. Anyway, I have looked at different brands and haven't found any others that offer an adjustable post with 0 offset. Does anyone know of any??
> 
> Thanks


I believe the KS i950 is zero offset.


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## Evan55 (Jul 23, 2009)

Has anyone who bought their post from Outside Outfitters talked t them about the new hose?


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

I'll search thru these pages, but does anyone know the weight difference between the 380 and 420 mm versions of the 30.9 reverb? thx.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

frorider said:


> I'll search thru these pages, but does anyone know the weight difference between the 380 and 420 mm versions of the 30.9 reverb? thx.


First post of the thread.


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## AvalonTrails (Dec 28, 2010)

Props to SRAM. 

My Reverb got stuck at +4. Apparently, the hose reacts with the oil causing a gas bubble, defeating the bleed. 

One quick call and a new hose on the way under warranty.

The post is good enough to be worth a bit of tweaking, so long as in the end it becomes more reliable.


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## boblepesh1 (May 16, 2010)

*routing on a Trance X*

Just got my Reverb and ready to install on a large Trance X. Would anyone have a pic or two of your cable treatment on a Giant product? Is it critical to use friction grease/carbon bond? Product looks amazing. thanks


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

First ride on my reverb tonight.  

The goods:
Post worked awesome out of the box :thumbsup: 
remote feels great, smooth action, nice seat clamp, belld kit included, all good things!  

The bad:
OK, so I bought XO brakes because they were matchmaker compatible, and I knew I would be running a reverb and SRAM shifters. Then, I shelled out an extra $40 for the matchmaker clamps (just slightly different than the stock clamps that come with the brakes). Now I get the seatpost, and WTF, it ain't matchmaker- looks like you now have to buy the special "matchmaker reverb remote" which is $120? :madmax: 

Feels like a bait-and-switch to me since SRAM markets the reverb as "matchmaker compatible".. with no pictures or info on whats actually required...and there really is no reason to provide a non-matchmaker option. :nono: 

So that's lame SRAM- F U for that!

Well the good news is, it's nothing I can't hack together with a dremel and some parts from the $40 clamp.


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## nixgame22 (Apr 10, 2008)

FM said:


> The bad:
> OK, so I bought XO brakes because they were matchmaker compatible, and I knew I would be running a reverb and SRAM shifters. Then, I shelled out an extra $40 for the matchmaker clamps (just slightly different than the stock clamps that come with the brakes). Now I get the seatpost, and WTF, it ain't matchmaker- looks like you now have to buy the special "matchmaker reverb remote" which is $120? :madmax:
> 
> Feels like a bait-and-switch to me since SRAM markets the reverb as "matchmaker compatible".. with no pictures or info on whats actually required...and there really is no reason to provide a non-matchmaker option. :nono:
> ...


What are you talking about? The Reverb remote is a two-in-one clamp. It can be ran solo, or function as the matchmaker clamp itself for the brake and shifter. There's no need for a "special $120 remote," because I don't think it exists. You're probably seeing the remote as a replacement for $120, but it's no different than the remote that came with the Reverb. 
The Reverb remote REPLACES the the Elixir mount. Very simple and nothing additional to buy.
Looking at the remote, it's easy to see how it will also function as the Matchmaker. I don't understand why you're having issues seeing this.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

nixgame22 said:


> What are you talking about? The Reverb remote is a two-in-one clamp.
> Looking at the remote, it's easy to see how it will also function as the Matchmaker. I don't understand why you're having issues seeing this.


My reverb remote looks nothing like yours. Looks like they changed the design...or possibly mine is an OE version with a different remote. With the stock remote installed, there was no "opening" on mine for the brake lever to fit into.

It ended up not being a huge project to pull the hinge pins out of my spare matchmaker clamp and the reverb remote, and then swap pieces. I just need a slightly longer fastener now. Here's what I had left over; the top piece is what I removed from my reverb (note it's much "deeper" than your clamp). The bottom piece is left over from the matchmaker clamp.... also, a screen grab of the parts list from SRAM's site showing different part numbers for the MMX remotes. Universal cycles lists them for $120.


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## kiodo (Oct 23, 2007)

It's so simple, guys: it comes in two flavours, matchmaker compatible or no-matchmaker compatible. 
I don't use sram components on my handlebar, I'm quite happy with the no-mm version.


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## h2ored (Oct 3, 2008)

nixgame22, where did you get the version with Left remote??


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## nixgame22 (Apr 10, 2008)

h2ored said:


> nixgame22, where did you get the version with Left remote??


I want to apologize. I just re-read the post that I made last night, and I sould like a jerk. I really didn't mean for it to come out like that.
The pictures are not mine, just the first few images that showed up in a google.com/image search for "reverb remote." I posted them in hopes that it would help FM see how it can function as both a Matchmaker or stand alone clamp.
I had no idea that they're offering the post with a different remote now, that is very disappointing. 
When I bought mine, there was no option for which remote I would like, or even if I wanted a left or right remote. 
I think what FM did is awesome and good thinking, and I appreciate him posting the pictures.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

nixgame22 said:


> I want to apologize. I just re-read the post that I made last night, and I sould like a jerk. I really didn't mean for it to come out like that.


Hey, no worries at all. 
Honestly..... I was a little pissed at Rockshox, for the same reasons you posted! It seemed so simple...



kiodo said:


> It's so simple, guys: it comes in two flavours, matchmaker compatible or no-matchmaker compatible.


So simple... yet Rockshox says *nothing *about it on their page? and every web store I see simply shows 30.9 and 31.6, no mention of the MMX compatibly (or not)....WTF Sram?

I'm curious as to if this is a running design change (i.e. matchmaker is now an "upgrade") or they really do offer both options at the same price point, and it's just not documented anywhere.

regardless my hack job came out nice, so no worries.  
I'll post up a pic later, it's kind of interesting as I am running 1x9 with the remote under the front brake.


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

BaeckerX1 said:


> I installed my new hose kit last night (finally got around to it). I gotta say, the actual installation isn't complicated, but damn if that new hose isn't difficult to push onto those new barbs. OMG. Even with wrapping a rag around the cable and then using pliers to push it on, I still marked the hose a bit with the pliers. I rocked it back and forth and spun it while pushing it on like SRAM's instructions, but it still was a pain.
> 
> The new hose seems a lot better, but since it's stiffer it doesn't flex as well as the old one. I had to train it a bit to bow at the back before it would go down without pushing the cable all the way to the front and making a big bow at the bars.  Once I did that it worked well.


I put a little grease on the barbs... As far as putting the hose on over the barbs, I found the wiggle from side to side and push method worked better than rotate and push. I like the new hose, I was able to install it with the 3 cable clips and the guide that came with the unit and did not have to use zip ties this time. I also added a bit of length to the original install so I can pull the post out to the min-insertion level to clamp it in the bike stand without stressing the hose. Prior to this, I had to make sure I pushed the seat down first before pulling the post out to the min insertion level.


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## KrisRayner (Apr 3, 2007)

Just got my new Reverb out of the box installed it in the frame and operated it a few times by hand, haven't even installed the saddle yet, when the bottom literally fell out of it. Retaining circlip is gone and it doesn't work at all now. The lower scrader valve, seal assy just pushed out. 

I had crap experience with prior SRAM products, and went against my initial feelings 'cause I need a post with zero setback and my choice as between the Reverb or Joplin 4 (I have a credit with the bike shop and those are the models they carry).

I'm really wanting to just send it back and just give up on the seat dropper post.

Those with real time on it, how's the reliability? I'm really discouraged with it and don't wanna keep fighting problems.


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

Sounds like they way most of my orders go, be it bike related or home improvement. Sometimes I feel that carma is against me or some higher being is trying to tell me something. I'm pretty persistant, so I just push on.

Mine, since I bled it, has been great! The only thing that I've had to rectify is the spongy hose issue and SRAM stepped up and rectified it.

Just assume that it's a fluke, kinda like when I ordered my new bathtub with a right hand drain and got a left hand drain in the box, or when I ordered my shower set in brushed nickel and the shower head was chrome. Push on through.... I'd say, to date, the Reverb is the most refined in the adjustable post catagory.


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## kiodo (Oct 23, 2007)

FM said:


> So simple... yet Rockshox says *nothing *about it on their page? and every web store I see simply shows 30.9 and 31.6, no mention of the MMX compatibly (or not)....WTF Sram?.


Check this
and this
.

See description: first is Matchmaker X ready, second one is "Standard Schelle (nicht für Match Maker X geeignet)". 
wf-bikes-parts is the ebay seller where I got mine, he clearly enough specifies what kind of lever it has :thumbsup:


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## Mr_Nice_Guy (Nov 9, 2010)

WTF is all of this about? Anyone have any intel? I am (was) about to buy one, but certainly don't want last year's prom dress color...especially not for $300

http://declinemagazine.com/content.php?itemid=5928



declinemagazine said:


> We spent a few days in Santa Cruz riding the Elixir 9 brakes as well as a revised version of the Reverb adjustable height seatpost.


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

KrisRayner said:


> Those with real time on it, how's the reliability? I'm really discouraged with it and don't wanna keep fighting problems.


I have about 100 hours on my Reverb, which I bought the day it was released. Used on every ride many times, and in nasty weather, too. After a ride, I wipe down the post. So far, no issues. It's perfect. I only had to bleed it once, upon receiving it; it did not work out of the box. That's not an issue as SRAM provided a generous quality bleed kit.


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## mitja (Jan 12, 2006)

Finally SRAM released 4 videos (with 5th on the way) how to service/bleed/shorten Reverb:


















5th video from SRAM: Reverb seatpost seal replacement


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## paulki (Nov 17, 2010)

Hi,
I have a Reverb for about 2 months, it was quite slow at the beginning so the shop technician did bleed. Its speed slowly degraded so at this point there is a need for another bleed I guess. 
I want to do it myself this time, - I am just confused if I need to perform a complete system bleed or just a remote?
Also, should I ask for a hose replacement? Why the new one is better than the old?
Thanks in advance for any help,
Paul


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

Paul,

The new hose is a much more stout hydraulic hose, so the longevity and connection to the remote and post are more substantial. There have been a couple of reports of leaks developing at the post/remote, but at least one of these was user error nicking the barb. A bunch of us have had the post need a re-bleed. There has been unconfirmed speculation that the old, rather thin and un-reinforced hose stretched a little causing this need of rebleeding (I believe this is possible). No matter how you look at it, Rockshox has a replacement so there is at least one reason behind it (and I don't blame them for not telling the market). Therefore, I would totally replace the hose if you are going to rebleed. And don't be intimidated--do a full bleed--it is very easy (and necessary when you replace the entire hose). 

good luck--I have ridden mine since September, throughout winter, and pretty damn hard. I love it, no issues. A little play, but it only bugs me when I am off the bike.


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## liberatorx (Sep 7, 2010)

I had my new reverb post bled in november/december have only ridden it once back then and now the post needs to be bled again it moves like a snail. After reading this ill see about getting a new hose from rockshok first... thanks


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## paulki (Nov 17, 2010)

Anyone knows how can I contact (by email) SRAM to ask for a new hose to be shipped to me? (My local distributor isn't very cooperative - suggests to bleed again...)


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## nixgame22 (Apr 10, 2008)

Mr. Nice Guy said:


> WTF is all of this about? Anyone have any intel? I am (was) about to buy one, but certainly don't want last year's prom dress color...especially not for $300
> 
> http://declinemagazine.com/content.php?itemid=5928


What's the issue? The link you posted is the release info of Avid's new disc brakes, nothing on the Reverb.
The new brakes will work with the Reverb remote, which is a great move.


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

Just call them--I found them more than helpful. SRAM # 1-312-664-8800


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## 274898 (Nov 29, 2005)

Mine has a little play but not a deal breaker. It is a sweet seatpost smooth and the remote is solid especially if you use the sram matchmaker x and connect the remote with XX or X.0. brakes.

The upgraded cable is nice. Very solid.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Woo hoo! Just rcv'd a left hand remote. They're finally out!
I'm finding my rt hand is just too busy w/ shifting and braking to also deal w/ seatpost adjmnts. So, this left hand unit is going to be a welcomed thing 

Found mine on eDiscountBikes for $99...cheapest I found.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Pau11y said:


> Woo hoo! Just rcv'd a left hand remote. They're finally out!
> I'm finding my rt hand is just too busy w/ shifting and braking to also deal w/ seatpost adjmnts. So, this left hand unit is going to be a welcomed thing
> 
> Found mine on eDiscountBikes for $99...cheapest I found.


How's the Reverb working out for you?


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

BaeckerX1 said:


> How's the Reverb working out for you?


It's dewin well. Drilled out the BLTc's cable stops and now have the hose running in the proper guides. Had to cut the hose again and rebleed. But after this bleeding, the post's speed increased. Good thing too 
Next, I unbolt the barb from the RH remote and drop it in the LH unit, and bleed again. RH unit will be good for spare parts, yeah? 
What I'm curious about is if I can reduce the extension by 1 inch. My post is bottomed on the frame and at full ext, it's still too long/tall. 1 inch reduction would be perfect! So, anyone mod'd the post yet?

P


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

Just built up a new Sultan with the Reverb. Everything worked straight out of the box (post has the new cable style - I suspect that most of the DOA issues people experienced were caused by chemical reaction between the fluid and the tubing material resulting in bubbles during transit).

Only complaint is the positioning of the remote and the match-maker clamp - with an X9 groupo, the clamp screw is covered by the shifter - so to make any adjustment to the match-maker clamp, you literally have to remove the shifter - no fun. I also was not at all happy with the above-bar position. So I've moved the remote to the left bar - it's a little bit of a stretch to get to it, but not bad.

Looking forward to my first ride.


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## bornslippy (Oct 1, 2010)

*loving the reverb!*

just got mine. worked flawless out of the box, no bleeding needed. will have to bled since i will have to shorten the hose later or maybe not. right now the cable been routed in way that its ride-able.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

When I swapped my RH to (a proper) LH remote, I used the shifter mount from the RH on my LH clamp. I was able to get a better reach on the remote trigger/shifter combo, whereas before I had to reach for the remote while the shifters felt too close to the grip.


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

This may have been covered in this thread but, if anyone breaks their remote you can use the standard X-loc remote button kit as a replacement as the Reverb specific parts aren't yet available from SRAM. I just did the install of the new parts last night which I ordered from Universal cycles for about $35... You need to remove the silver spacer from the new X-loc plunger and them swap the o-ring from the Reverb onto the new plunger (don't use the supplied o-ring)... Once installed, you should only need to bleed the remote itself. To be honest, my post has never functioned as well. Oh, and I am still using the original hose... waiting for warranty replacement.


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## dsully575 (Feb 23, 2004)

Went to load up my FS bike for tomorrow's ride since I haven't been on it in quite awhile (been riding the HT 1x9). Jumped on to give 'er a quick spin and the Reverb post was stuck in the UP position. No matter what I did it wouldn't budge. 

It had to be bled out of the box about 5-6 times before it finally worked. Now it's been sitting for about 50-60 days and the post doesn't work again. It worked the last time I rode it--skip ahead 2 months and it's not working. Back to the shop it goes. I guess they need to call Rock Shox for this replacement hose?

I'm wishing I'd just stuck with my Gravity Dropper--at least it worked. This Reverb has been very problematic and I haven't even used it that much.


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## bulletboy (Sep 6, 2004)

Get the bleed kit and learn to do it yourself. 

It took me about 15 minutes from opening the box to having a functional post. (including mucking about with bleeding it.)

LOVE it.


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## nixgame22 (Apr 10, 2008)

Pau11y said:


> When I swapped my RH to (a proper) LH remote, I used the shifter mount from the RH on my LH clamp. I was able to get a better reach on the remote trigger/shifter combo, whereas before I had to reach for the remote while the shifters felt too close to the grip.


Paully, post some pics.


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## mikael_nr1 (Dec 17, 2005)

Has anyone been able to get the new hose from CRC?

Can one contact RS to get it directly from them?

/ Mike


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## shanem (Apr 15, 2008)

I got my post in October and it worked flawlessly right out of the box. However after storing for the winter my post is now locked up. Any ideas about what could have happened? And what to do to fix it?


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

shanem said:


> I got my post in October and it worked flawlessly right out of the box. However after storing for the winter my post is now locked up. Any ideas about what could have happened? And what to do to fix it?


did you do a full system bleed?


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## shanem (Apr 15, 2008)

b-kul said:


> did you do a full system bleed?


No I didn't. I didn't think it would be necessary since it worked fine.


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

Well, as mentioned over and over in this thread, that's the first thing to do when it does not go up or down. So applying the advice here would be a good first step.


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

If it's true about the reactivity between the fluid and oe hose, I'm guessing the fluid has gradually digested the hose over the storage period.


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## Pauldotcom (Aug 15, 2010)

I can't believe all the problems I've read on this forum about the Reverb yet most of you guys continue to defend it. NO WAY am I spending $300 on a component that doesn't work like it should out of the box! Thing sounds like garbage.

Is there any other adjustable seatpost that is more reliable or are they all quirky up to this point?


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## nixgame22 (Apr 10, 2008)

Pauldotcom said:


> I can't believe all the problems I've read on this forum about the Reverb yet most of you guys continue to defend it. NO WAY am I spending $300 on a component that doesn't work like it should out of the box! Thing sounds like garbage.
> 
> Is there any other adjustable seatpost that is more reliable or are they all quirky up to this point?


It's a hydraulic component. That's just the physics of it. No reason to get mad about it. Have you never had to bleed your brakes?


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

Pauldotcom said:


> I can't believe all the problems I've read on this forum about the Reverb yet most of you guys continue to defend it. NO WAY am I spending $300 on a component that doesn't work like it should out of the box! Thing sounds like garbage.
> 
> Is there any other adjustable seatpost that is more reliable or are they all quirky up to this point?


So you need to bleed it out of the box. Do you not buy brakes that require to be bled? Or brakes that require you to install and tighten cable and housing? I don't see how a bleed requirement qualifies as not working out of then box, especially when SRAM includes a complete high quality bleed kit. Truth is, no bike component works out of the box; it needs to be installed, setup, and adjusted first.

Anyhow, aside from an initial bleed, mine has worked flawlessly since.


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## Pauldotcom (Aug 15, 2010)

Bleed kit included?? I thought the kit was another $45. Yes, I did bleed my brakes out of the box because I shortened the hose. 

It is a toss up between the KSI 950 and the Reverb... From what I'm reading, they both have some problems... 

I broke my arm last week so I have a good 6 weeks before buying lol.. (surgery today).. If I had the drop-post, I'd like to think I would have moved back more and avoided the crash..


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

The kit is included, and it's one of those nice kits with two syringes, screw in tips, a Torx wrench for the valves, and a generous supply of fluid. If there were no kit included, I'd be pretty pissed, in fact.


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## shanem (Apr 15, 2008)

Bled mine yesterday and it now works flawlessly again. Just seems strange that it work fine and then after storage need to be bled. I thought that hydraulic lines were a sealed system - ie -no air can get in or out unless you open the system. When I bled it there was tons of air in the line


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

shanem said:


> Bled mine yesterday and it now works flawlessly again. Just seems strange that it work fine and then after storage need to be bled. I thought that hydraulic lines were a sealed system - ie -no air can get in or out unless you open the system. When I bled it there was tons of air in the line


There is a new hydraulic line available from SRAM to resolve the air in the line issue.... contact the shop where you got the post or phone SRAM direct and they will hook you up.


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## DLd (Feb 15, 2005)

Just bled mine following the basic directions in the first post. My shop had installed the new hose after accidentally breaking the other one off at the post due to a slip while removing the bike from the workstand, whoops. It was noticeably slower than it had been new, so I decided to go ahead and bleed it myself, or at least top it off. I've never bled even a brake system before, and I have to say this is probably the easiest bike maintenance task I've ever done. I do most all of my other maintenance and had wrenched in a shop before the advent of hydraulic brakes, but I just never got around to messing with my own hydraulic disc brakes. Now I'll probably go ahead and bleed those on my other bike as the front is feeling a bit soft. Thanks for the info guys, great post.


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## RSMarco (Mar 7, 2008)

Anyone from the UK managed to get the replacement hose?


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## craigxxl (Nov 15, 2010)

I got my Reverb last month and looking at the pics of the new hose mine came already fitted.


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## Enrice (Apr 12, 2011)

According to the pics, I seem to already have the new hose. After the dealer's technician installed the new post, it worked like a charm, pretty fast. Now after let's say only 10 hours of riding, it has slowed down a lot since. Fastest position is like slowest before, slowest hardly moves at all now.

Does it already need bleeding? Is this possible, or do you think of it as being broken?


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Enrice said:


> According to the pics, I seem to already have the new hose. After the dealer's technician installed the new post, it worked like a charm, pretty fast. Now after let's say only 10 hours of riding, it has slowed down a lot since. Fastest position is like slowest before, slowest hardly moves at all now.
> 
> Does it already need bleeding? Is this possible, or do you think of it as being broken?


I highly doubt it's broken. It wouldn't operate if it was. It probably doesn't even need a "true" bleed. Try this. Turn the post to full slow, get some fluid in a syringe, hook up the syringe at the remote lever and push more fluid into it until it tops off. You won't be able to push in the syringe any further. Cap it, and turn it to full fast again and operate post. That should speed it up and take less than 5 minutes of your time.

If it needs this after such a short time though, I would make sure you have the new hose. Retailers may be trying to offload the old ones without replacing it. It's simple to tell really. If your hose feels like plastic, it's the old one. If it feels somewhat "rubbery" and stiff, like a hydraulic brake hose, you have the new one.

*On a sidenote, everyone who has installed the new hose, how are you finding the post now? Have you had to bleed it at all again? I haven't had to bleed mine once since installing the new hose and it hasn't been slowing down like before. What are your results/experiences?*


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

*back in the saddle again*

About 2 weeks ago I finally received my new Reverb. I give props to SRAM for giving me a full replacement (resetting: mine lost all fluid at the post versus having problem with remote and hydraulics of remote system)-- looks to be with the new hose. What I don't like is that it took almost a month. I'm hearing a creaking noise coming from the saddle as I did on my previous Reverb. I thought on 1st that maybe I didn't tighten the saddle clamp bolts enough. I know I have this time and I'm wondering if that sound is the sound of the reverb innards grinding toward another failure. Anyone else hear creaking on their Reverb, especially under high torque going uphill???


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

attaboy said:


> About 2 weeks ago I finally received my new Reverb. I give props to SRAM for giving me a full replacement (resetting: mine lost all fluid at the post versus having problem with remote and hydraulics of remote system)-- looks to be with the new hose. What I don't like is that it took almost a month. I'm hearing a creaking noise coming from the saddle as I did on my previous Reverb. I thought on 1st that maybe I didn't tighten the saddle clamp bolts enough. I know I have this time and I'm wondering if that sound is the sound of the reverb innards grinding toward another failure. Anyone else hear creaking on their Reverb, especially under high torque going uphill???


grease your seat rails and all the clamping parts where they interface. Your probably just hearing the seat parts grinding together like a bb shell or headset might. I doubt your having internal issues. My KS i-900, Speedball, and Reverb all did this. Grease was the fix.


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## morandi (Jun 20, 2008)

The seat clamp bolts interface on the Reverb can be kinda tricky. Those little u shaped washers have to seat a certain way when you tighten the bolts down otherwise you get creaking popping sound. I was having that problem. I just greased everything and reinstalled it carefully, no problems anymore.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Just swapped my non-remote GD post to a Reverb. No ride time yet, but did a cut/bleed, and made sure everything plays well with the linkage and rear travel. Nothing is getting unduly rubbed/pulled/caught. 
























Cutting and bleeding was easy. Watched the SRAM vids about doing so on youtube and had it done very quickly. Putzing around the garage and driveway, everything seems trouble free so far.

Running the right remote on the left, so it is more or less where my thumb is anyhow. Feels good. 

















Roughly 90 gms more than the GD non-remote post. Just fine, for the functionality gained.

I actually swapped the GD post on my hardtail over to a remote Turbo for the $80 cost of them sending the parts. Parts arrived in two days, and took under ten minutes to swap. 








Same deal -right hand lever on the left under the bar.








This bike has a 30.0mm post size, so options are limited. Since I already had the GD post, swapping it over cheaply was a no-brainer. Could have just swapped the post on the Banshee the same way, but what can I say? New part lust overcame me.








Swapped the cheesy little flat-head screws out for some Allen heads. 
Rode with this one yesterday. I used it a lot without the remote, but man, it was sweet being able to drop it without taking a hand off the bar!


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

*Creak killing*

I'd suggest anti-seize compound vs grease. Only grease for parts where you actually want to reduce friction...moving parts. If you're providing a lube layer to parts that aren't supposed to move and thereby prevent creaking, use anti-seize. And unlike grease, just film the surface, or the start of the bolt, as this stuff will get dragged into whatever you're mating together. Auto parts stores have huge bottles of it for the same price we pay for a small tube of "high end" grease from bike shops.


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## istvisinet (May 20, 2008)

Pau11y said:


> I'd suggest anti-seize compound vs grease. Only grease for parts where you actually want to reduce friction...moving parts. If you're providing a lube layer to parts that aren't supposed to move and thereby prevent creaking, use anti-seize. And unlike grease, just film the surface, or the start of the bolt, as this stuff will get dragged into whatever you're mating together. Auto parts stores have huge bottles of it for the same price we pay for a small tube of "high end" grease from bike shops.


Auto parts store have anti-seize compound? Can you provide a product or manufacture name?

Thanks


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## Enrice (Apr 12, 2011)

BaeckerX1 said:


> I highly doubt it's broken. It wouldn't operate if it was. It probably doesn't even need a "true" bleed. Try this. Turn the post to full slow, get some fluid in a syringe, hook up the syringe at the remote lever and push more fluid into it until it tops off. You won't be able to push in the syringe any further. Cap it, and turn it to full fast again and operate post. That should speed it up and take less than 5 minutes of your time.
> 
> If it needs this after such a short time though, I would make sure you have the new hose. Retailers may be trying to offload the old ones without replacing it. It's simple to tell really. If your hose feels like plastic, it's the old one. If it feels somewhat "rubbery" and stiff, like a hydraulic brake hose, you have the new one.


According to the pics I'm sure I already have the new hose.

I tried your proposal, and also did a full bleed of the whole system. Now speed WOULD be fast again - but I got another problem (maybe this was already before and I only didn't notice): the remote operates well only with a lot of force applied; the firmer I press, the faster the post moves; kind of "analog". I am not that strong for this kind of function 
Shouldn't the remote operate as a kind of "digital" on/off switch?

I'm a bit pissed.:madmax:


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

Enrice said:


> According to the pics I'm sure I already have the new hose.
> 
> I tried your proposal, and also did a full bleed of the whole system. Now speed WOULD be fast again - but I got another problem (maybe this was already before and I only didn't notice): the remote operates well only with a lot of force applied; the firmer I press, the faster the post moves; kind of "analog". I am not that strong for this kind of function
> Shouldn't the remote operate as a kind of "digital" on/off switch?
> ...


nope, thats perfectly normal.


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

attaboy said:


> About 2 weeks ago I finally received my new Reverb. I give props to SRAM for giving me a full replacement (resetting: mine lost all fluid at the post versus having problem with remote and hydraulics of remote system)-- looks to be with the new hose. What I don't like is that it took almost a month. I'm hearing a creaking noise coming from the saddle as I did on my previous Reverb. I thought on 1st that maybe I didn't tighten the saddle clamp bolts enough. I know I have this time and I'm wondering if that sound is the sound of the reverb innards grinding toward another failure. Anyone else hear creaking on their Reverb, especially under high torque going uphill???


I had that issue and it turned out to be the saddle rails creaking where they meet the saddle. I put a drop of chain oil in all four spots where the rails meet the saddle, and there was no more issue.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

istvisinet said:


> Auto parts store have anti-seize compound? Can you provide a product or manufacture name?
> 
> Thanks


Just walk up to the counter and say, "Hey, I need a bottle of anti-seize compound, please."

Mine comes in a 6" tall x 2.5" dia grey bottle w/ a metal cap that has a brush in it. I think it's like $9-12...?

Don't eat this stuff; I think it's lead based.


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## Enrice (Apr 12, 2011)

b-kul said:


> nope, thats perfectly normal.


I cannot believe this.
Let me clarify the issue:
Knob turned to full slow: force needed to press remote its full travel is fairly ok, post operates quite ok.
Knob turned to full fast: force needed to press last 20% of travel is awfully hard, but needed for fast operation of the post, otherwise I get only slow movement.


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

My Reverb just failed after about 3 weeks of riding. It looks like the air seals are dead - seat won't come back up by itself, and I can move the seat up and down through most of it's travel without pushing the remote. RockShox support told me to check the air pressure (s/b 250psi) - it's 0psi. Tried pumping it back up, and it won't hold air.

Off to the shop for a return - Support says they'll ship a new post as soon as they get the call from the shop - I was a bit nervous about buying a newly designed product like this, but the RS customer service makes up for the headache.


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

trumpetinc said:


> My Reverb just failed after about 3 weeks of riding. It looks like the air seals are dead - seat won't come back up by itself, and I can move the seat up and down through most of it's travel without pushing the remote. RockShox support told me to check the air pressure (s/b 250psi) - it's 0psi. Tried pumping it back up, and it won't hold air.
> 
> Off to the shop for a return - Support says they'll ship a new post as soon as they get the call from the shop - I was a bit nervous about buying a newly designed product like this, but the RS customer service makes up for the headache.


First, thanks for the help with creaking! I'm glad to hear it is most likely the rails/bolts and can be easily remedied.

Trumpetinc, that is exactly what happened to my first Reverb. Hope yours is turned around quickly. Not sure about my LBS -- they indicated something about how RS would first want to take it apart etc. and then decide about whether to repair or send a new one. I suspect it may have just been a lazy guy at warranty desk, I dunno.


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

Enrice said:


> I cannot believe this.
> Let me clarify the issue:
> Knob turned to full slow: force needed to press remote its full travel is fairly ok, post operates quite ok.
> Knob turned to full fast: force needed to press last 20% of travel is awfully hard, but needed for fast operation of the post, otherwise I get only slow movement.


think about how your brakes work. same principle.


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## Enrice (Apr 12, 2011)

Don't get me wrong, this is actually changed behavior - it was ok at first!


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

My remote is not hard to press at the end of travel. Maybe you created positive pressure when you did the syringe bleeding by being overzealous? Also was the speed knob set to full flow when you did the bleeding? If it wasn't, that certainly will be an issue leading to positive pressure. Perhaps simply opening the remote bleed port when on full flow and seeing if some fluid seeps out, then closing it would solve the issue?


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## simongrounds (Jul 16, 2010)

Just gone for my first ride with the reverb. It seems to work really well, nice and fast.

However, when I move it up/down I can hear a hiss (sounds like air), I don't think i could hear this when I was playing around with it initially. I can't see anything leaking. It sounds like the hiss is coming from the remote, or the cable close by. Is this normal?


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## Enrice (Apr 12, 2011)

polymathic said:


> My remote is not hard to press at the end of travel. Maybe you created positive pressure when you did the syringe bleeding by being overzealous? Also was the speed knob set to full flow when you did the bleeding? If it wasn't, that certainly will be an issue leading to positive pressure. Perhaps simply opening the remote bleed port when on full flow and seeing if some fluid seeps out, then closing it would solve the issue?


Tried that - to no avail. seems to be getting worse. last part of travel no longer possible to push, and post gets slower and slower


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## OldManBike (Apr 16, 2011)

FM said:


> Hey, no worries at all.
> So simple... yet Rockshox says *nothing *about it on their page? and every web store I see simply shows 30.9 and 31.6, no mention of the MMX compatibly (or not)....WTF Sram?


For future reference, I think this is all a non-issue. I'm posting this so that others don't waste time on it like I have.

After reading this discussion, I got all worried that I had the wrong version because the label on my Reverb box said "30.9 380 MMX RT," and I was afraid that I got the MMX version and it wouldn't work. I called SRAM, and the rep there who I spoke to said, Yup, you've got the MMX version, you need to send it your post back and get the right one."

But then I called Tree Fort (who I'd bought it from, $245 with a price match) and they called SRAM and got a very different story. It turns out that the MMX part of the clamp attachment is just a little elbow attached to the clamp by a torx bolt. If you're not running MMX, you just remove the elbow, simple as that. Now that I actually _look _at the clamp assembly, that seems obviously correct. Duh. SRAM told Tree Fort that all the Reverbs sold retail are the MMX version, the non-MMX version is only OEM on some bikes.

A side-note: if you're not sure if your Reverb has the old cable or the new (see above) SRAM can tell you if you call them and provide your serial number. (Unless the SRAM rep I talked to was making that up too, which I doubt.) Mine had the new. I thought that might mean no need for a bleed upon arrival, but no.

Anyway, now I'm looking forward to getting it installed instead of yapping about it with customer service reps.


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

Well, turns out the RS rep I had on the phone originally gave wrong info. They are now requiring the post back in-house before they send a replacement. That'll teach me to not document every single detail of every call...

FWIW the LBS had another rider with the same problem. Sounds like maybe RS may have another infant mortality problem (in addition to the chemical reaction in the remote tubing).

Hopefully I'll have the new post soon - I definitely miss it.



attaboy said:


> Trumpetinc, that is exactly what happened to my first Reverb. Hope yours is turned around quickly. Not sure about my LBS -- they indicated something about how RS would first want to take it apart etc. and then decide about whether to repair or send a new one. I suspect it may have just been a lazy guy at warranty desk, I dunno.


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## Prunetucky (Apr 17, 2005)

4 rides on the reverb. it arrived new with slight play front back (in the exteneded position only) and has increased substantially... 1/8 - 3/16" at least. at this rate...
Can the collar be tightened? The play is in the center post. Again, only fully exteneded.
thanks
EC


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## Rivet (Sep 3, 2004)

Prunetucky said:


> 4 rides on the reverb. it arrived new with slight play front back (in the exteneded position only) and has increased substantially... 1/8 - 3/16" at least. at this rate...
> Can the collar be tightened? The play is in the center post. Again, only fully exteneded.
> thanks
> EC


Uh Oh. Mine reacted just the same before it died (seal blew). Was seriously considering going to a KS until my friends died on it's first ride. Man, how hard can it be for a big engineering company like SRAM to get this figured out.


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## Rivet (Sep 3, 2004)

trumpetinc said:


> My Reverb just failed after about 3 weeks of riding. It looks like the air seals are dead - seat won't come back up by itself, and I can move the seat up and down through most of it's travel without pushing the remote. RockShox support told me to check the air pressure (s/b 250psi) - it's 0psi. Tried pumping it back up, and it won't hold air.
> 
> Off to the shop for a return - Support says they'll ship a new post as soon as they get the call from the shop - I was a bit nervous about buying a newly designed product like this, but the RS customer service makes up for the headache.


Exactly what happened to me.


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## Prunetucky (Apr 17, 2005)

Have you watched the service vid provided by SRAM? If I had seen how involved the service is...


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

*Proper mounting*

Finally got my Nomad c done. This is the way to mount the reverb remote :thumbsup:


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## RSMarco (Mar 7, 2008)

q2xltrgt said:


> Finally got my Nomad c done. This is the way to mount the reverb remote :thumbsup:


Looking to do that on my NC. You posted any pic's on the SC section?

Mark


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

Yep it's on there


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## Rivet (Sep 3, 2004)

q2xltrgt said:


> Finally got my Nomad c done. This is the way to mount the reverb remote :thumbsup:


What, under the bar like me and twenty other guys on this thread have had theirs mounted for months?


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

*Broken Barb...*

I have put my bike in the stand with the Reverb on it, I have been careful to have the hose go down in the slot in the stand head, no problems. Today I was working on my bike and I didn't have it lined up right and it slipped breaking the barb on the post side. LBS is closed, but I assume they can order this piece for me?

John


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Rivet said:


> What, under the bar like me and twenty other guys on this thread have had theirs mounted for months?


I think it's the single clamp that they're referring to.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Jisch said:


> I have put my bike in the stand with the Reverb on it, I have been careful to have the hose go down in the slot in the stand head, no problems. Today I was working on my bike and I didn't have it lined up right and it slipped breaking the barb on the post side. LBS is closed, but I assume they can order this piece for me?
> 
> John


Hose barb wasn't available sep. when I had mine break on me, but SRAM was quick to get me a full rebuild kit thru the LBS post haste (includes the hose barb, new hose, etc).

Last I checked, the full rebuild kit wasn't avaialable thru QBP/BTI.


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

Rivet said:


> What, under the bar like me and twenty other guys on this thread have had theirs mounted for months?


No Einstein, using the clamp to hold the brake lever on. It's just a hole lot cleaner than the way i had it on my other nomad.


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## Rivet (Sep 3, 2004)

q2xltrgt said:


> No Einstein, using the clamp to hold the brake lever on. It's just a hole lot cleaner than the way i had it on my other nomad.


What am I missing here, it's the matchmaker clamp, that's how it's supposed to go.


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

Rivet said:


> What am I missing here, it's the matchmaker clamp, that's how it's supposed to go.


I've only seen it advertised mounted on top of the bar so I thought I would put it on the bottom. Since no one else on this thread had posted their Rs remote this way I thought it would be appropriate. Plus I'm running 1x9 and without the shifter there it just looks very clean.

My previous post was a attempt at humor. Allthough I am not a comedian, I like to try to make people laugh.

I hope this post explains my every intent for you Rivet and I apologize for confusing you. :thumbsup:


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## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

Does the reverb have any play - side to side?


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## further (May 17, 2010)

Mine doesn't, yet, so far so good. About 10-12 rides though....Very solid so far, no complaints, needs a little bleed at first to get a fast return.


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## Mt. Tam Haze (Feb 23, 2009)

anybody know a place with reverb levers in stock? I broke mine and cant find a replacement anyplace!


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

OldManBike said:


> For future reference, I think this is all a non-issue. I'm posting this so that others don't waste time on it like I have.
> 
> After reading this discussion, I got all worried that I had the wrong version because the label on my Reverb box said "30.9 380 MMX RT," and I was afraid that I got the MMX version and it wouldn't work. I called SRAM, and the rep there who I spoke to said, Yup, you've got the MMX version, you need to send it your post back and get the right one."
> 
> But then I called Tree Fort (who I'd bought it from, $245 with a price match) and they called SRAM and got a very different story. It turns out that the MMX part of the clamp attachment is just a little elbow attached to the clamp by a torx bolt. If you're not running MMX, you just remove the elbow, simple as that. Now that I actually _look _at the clamp assembly, that seems obviously correct. Duh. SRAM told Tree Fort that all the Reverbs sold retail are the MMX version, the non-MMX version is only OEM on some bikes.


Sorry to say, not correct. The elbows you mention are for attaching the shifters only, they have nothing to do with connecting the reverb remote to your brake levers. The MMX version allows you to integrate newer elixir brake levers to the reverb remote, as well as your shifters too, using the "elbows". The non MMX version allows you to connect your shifters to the reverb remote (again, using the elbows), but will not accept the brake levers. Trust me, I've seen both versions side-by-side, both come with elbows, but only the MMX version integrates with avid brake levers.

By the way, my reverb was an OEM model (though it came new in a box, labeled "non-mmx"). So it's probably not a common issue, but does exist.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

q2xltrgt said:


> I've only seen it advertised mounted on top of the bar so I thought I would put it on the bottom. Since no one else on this thread had posted their Rs remote this way I thought it would be appropriate. Plus I'm running 1x9 and without the shifter there it just looks very clean.


FWIW, my, and several others in here are on the left, underneath, without a shifter there. Mine just isn't on a single clamp since my current brake lever isn't compatable with the Matchmaker for the Reverb.

I'm going to see what I can fab up though. That ought to be far cheaper than a new brake lever.


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## Yippee_Ki_YayMF (Jan 30, 2011)

q2xltrgt said:


> Finally got my Nomad c done. This is the way to mount the reverb remote :thumbsup:


Looks really nice. I wish I could do that with mine. I have Avid Elixer CR brakes and the lever does not work with the Reverb remote. So I have to have them side by side. Looks a little cluttered, but I'm not complaining.


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## OldManBike (Apr 16, 2011)

FM said:


> Sorry to say, not correct. The elbows you mention are for attaching the shifters only, they have nothing to do with connecting the reverb remote to your brake levers. The MMX version allows you to integrate newer elixir brake levers to the reverb remote, as well as your shifters too, using the "elbows". The non MMX version allows you to connect your shifters to the reverb remote (again, using the elbows), but will not accept the brake levers. Trust me, I've seen both versions side-by-side, both come with elbows, but only the MMX version integrates with avid brake levers.
> 
> By the way, my reverb was an OEM model (though it came new in a box, labeled "non-mmx"). So it's probably not a common issue, but does exist.


I'm sure you're right about all that, I have no clue what MMX lets you attach the seatpost remote to. I just was making clear for others (in case anyone out there is as dumb as me) that even if you buy the MMX version (which is, according to SRAM, the only non-OEM version sold), you still can mount it independently, without needing to attach it to shifters or brakes or both, and regardless what brand shifters and brakes you have.


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## cesalec (Aug 28, 2008)

Hi there, I need a little help, I am seriously considering buying one of this for my 2008 Giant Reign 0. I have gone quickly half the pages of this thread and it is very interesting, but I have limited time, therefore I am forced to appeal to the community knowledge and save me some time.

I have taken a look at the stock seatpost (Raceface XC deus), and it says 30.9mmx37.9mm. It has a 9mm minimum insertion mark, and after the minimum mark it has 20mm marks (2cm, 4, 6, 8, 10). I typically have on the 4 it mark and normally drop my seat all the way to 10 (this is also the limit on the frame). 

Therefore I know I should buy a 30.9mm diameter, but I dont know which length to buy?? a bit of help, I am kind of confused.


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## craigxxl (Nov 15, 2010)

Measure your seatpost from top of clamp to saddle rails. If this figure is less that 190mm you can't fit a Reverb without your saddle been higher than it is now. 
If it is longer than 190mm but less than 300mm you need the 380mm length, this will leave you with an extra 80mm for the minimum insertion required. If it's longer than 300mm than you need the 420mm version.
Please note that your frame may require a longer minimum insertion in which case that trumps what is marked on the seatpost.


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## scottishyard (Jan 13, 2011)

just ordered my reverb yesterday. 30.9 380. It will make a nice addition to my Pitch.


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## erlau (Apr 4, 2007)

So has anyone taken theirs apart to try limiting the travel slightly? 

It looks like my current saddle height is a little low than the max extension would allow if I get a Reverb. It seems logical that a spacer somewhere would easily do the job just like on a fork but it would be nice to know that someone was able to do it successfully.


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## SFBMRC (Oct 29, 2006)

Installed mine today and it works just fine out of the box. It has about the same amount of wiggle compared to my Command post (about 1mm at the tip of the saddle) but I suspect that is the case with all dropper posts. I haven't had a chance to take it out on the trail yet but the ride around the neighborhood confirmed that it is indeed a good feeling product. 
The one thing I do miss about the Specialized post is the preset heights.


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## rcjonessnp175 (Aug 2, 2010)

Well my reverb just blew to. Yup the air seals failed, had the problems alot of you had described in here as far as the seat not rising and such. Checked its psi and it was at 20 psi, tried pumping it up to 250, got to 200 psi and pssssssssss good bye air. Wow they need to pull thier heads out of thier a.. to many failures and i was really loving this post.
Got about 600 miles on it so definately they need to fix its longevity. Stationed in germany and of course the LBS wont be open till monday, probaly just buy another one or the KS with remote.:madman:


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

Sorry to hear about your posts--but I don't think buying a new one is necessary. remember that 1) it has a 2 year warranty, and 2) you can purchase seal kits. The repair video is online. While I am one to think 600 miles isn't all that far for a post like this, I would expect some maintenance not too far from there either. Being stationed in Germany sure doesn't make that easier, but if there is an LBS that you could get another seat post at, they sure as heck could get a seal kit...


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## rcjonessnp175 (Aug 2, 2010)

Ya it was getting to be time to rebleed it again when this happened. Well after watching that video i did some exploring. First i did the good old bucket and water trick looking for bubbles and found the exact area of leakage. It seems to be burbing air from the schrader valve, so i removed the schrader core and greased it up and reinstalled it. Still a no go, then put a new schrader valve from a shrader bike to in their same thing still leaked. Either the valve isnt the exact problem or theirs something im missing.

Anyway ill be taking the post back to the lbs tommorrow hear in germany where i bought it their pretty good dudes so i imagine ill have a new one sent or this one fixed, will probaly buy another one so i can ride the bike until RS returns/fixes this one. Also from my break down of the post i didnt see anything out of ordinary that could point exactly whats broken. On mine it just seems the leak is from the schrader valve and did what i know to do to fix core stems and did nothing?? Ill give updates to what the LBS says and so forth.

Jonesy


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## trenchDiggr (Oct 13, 2010)

*Reverb dead?*

Reverb seems hosed. Looking for opinions.

It was operating slowly since I bought it a few months ago, so a few weeks ago I did a remote bleed (and shortened the cable at the same time), and it got to the point where it was acceptable. Not lightning fast, but fast enough. Anyway, I hung the bike up for a few weeks waiting for the trails to dry out, took it down today, and the reverb barely worked. With the remote lever all the way in, it took an incredible amount of force to lower the seatit. Then it would return very very slowly, like a few cm in 5 seconds. It seemed really odd to me that after I bled the remote a few weeks ago it was working fine, then after 3 weeks in storage without being touched, it barely worked.

Anyway, I did another remote bleed, which did not help. So I did a full system bleed. I got a decent amount of air out, but that did not help either. So I checked the air pressure, and it was around 190 psi, and the valve cap said 250, so I put a little more in. Which I now understand was probably a bad idea, some people have said it's not a good idea to mess with the air pressure? Anyway, I then adjusted the pressure back to around 200.

After all that, it still barely works. With the lever all the way in, I have to put a large amount of force to get it to lower; my 180 pounds on the seat is barely enough. And it won't lower all the way unless I release the remote and then press it again while I keep force down on the seat, and the last inch is damn near impossible to get while sitting in the seat. Then the return is just ridiculously, painfully slow - about 20 seconds bottom to top. You can speed it up a little bit by releasing and re-pressing the remote a few times.

One other interesting point - the manual says you can get the seat to come up without actuating the lever, if you apply enough force. Mine does not work that way - when it is down, I can pull it up without much force, but suction pulls it right back down again.

Any ideas what could be going on here? Does this sound like a return/rebuild? Did my mucking with the air pressure screw something up?

One other thing - I clamp the bike in a stand by the seatpost when working on it, but only by the lower part of the post, as the manual says. I try to put minimal clamping force, but I wonder if it is possible to clamp too tightly and deform the lower part of the post?


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

*Failure #2*

Well, I killed another Reverb today. This is my second and I've only been riding on it since April 1st. Started returning more slowly on my ride a few days ago. On today's ride it wouldn't return on its own and began sinking in about 1/2 inch when I pushed on it. I knew where it was headed and was just hoping it would hold out for the rest of my ride. But alas, it squished all the way down about half way into ride. Since I've already experienced this, I know the seals are blown again. Took it to LBS. I'm beginning to wonder whether this is ever going to work. It just seems like a design failure. I predict that we are in for more and more failures=blown seals.

NOT really lov'n SRAM right now. I had one of the flawed Reba 29er forks too and it took 2 times to get that straight.


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

...


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## Enrice (Apr 12, 2011)

trenchDiggr said:


> Reverb seems hosed. Looking for opinions.
> 
> It was operating slowly since I bought it a few months ago, so a few weeks ago I did a remote bleed (and shortened the cable at the same time), and it got to the point where it was acceptable. Not lightning fast, but fast enough. Anyway, I hung the bike up for a few weeks waiting for the trails to dry out, took it down today, and the reverb barely worked. With the remote lever all the way in, it took an incredible amount of force to lower the seatit. Then it would return very very slowly, like a few cm in 5 seconds. It seemed really odd to me that after I bled the remote a few weeks ago it was working fine, then after 3 weeks in storage without being touched, it barely worked.
> 
> ...


Although I cannot help you here (yet; I will bring it to my LBS today), your observations exactly match mine. Are you also unable to push the lever full in while in fastest position?


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## rcjonessnp175 (Aug 2, 2010)

Update on mine, went into the german LBS here were i purchased mine and they confirmed it was leaking and not holding air and gave me a Brand new one, hopefully this one lasts longer this time. One good thing about it is it has the new Cable on it rather than that old shiny flimsy one so thats a plus. Ill definately give updates on how this one works out. If i were a Rockshox/Sram Rep i would pay attention to this forum as this could help in narrowing down the short commings of this post and fix them with a good refresh. Hope you other guys get yours sorted out to because this post rocks when its operating the way its suppost to.

Jonesy ps Thumbs up to Fellow Special ops guys for the Kill on Bin Laden Wish i was thier for that one.:thumbsup:


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## john85D (Aug 1, 2006)

*Compressing reverb*

I just installed my warranty hose. Movement is much faster now as compared to the original hose, but I have two issues. First, when compressing the post with the remote pressed, it would go down easily then it would stiffen up after going down for half an inch. Quite some effort would make it move past this point then it would go down perfect again. Seems like there is something at the half inch mark preventing the post from going down freely.

Second issue is when the post is fully extended, sitting on the saddle would make the post compress by about 3mm then it would extend back up when unweighed. I know it's very little movement but it wasn't like this when it was new. I'm worried that the compression would slowly grow from 3mm to 10mm or something.

Any one else experience this?


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## dsully575 (Feb 23, 2004)

Mine did the same thing, except it was 3 inches, not 3mm. Tried to bleed it with no success. Took it back to where I bought it and the mechanic couldn't fix it either. It is currently back at Rock Shox awaiting repair or replacement. 

Either way I am SO VERY over this post and it's glaring quality issues. It's been broken way more than it's worked. I should've just stuck with my Gravity Dropper!

Buyer beware!!


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## Lev (Oct 12, 2004)

08350 said:


> so after 3 weeks of riding the reverb it developed a spongy feel, its now more of a suspension seatpost regardless where it is in its 5 inch travel, dont know what the cause :madmax: i did lift up the saddle while in its down position but it did return to its normal height, so i called rs and spoke to customer service, no problem just let the retailer know and will send a replacement and could do the swap once it arrives to avoid having no seatpost/reverb at all (its amazing once you have an adjustable seatpost that you dont want to ride without it  ) called up pricepoint and kudos to shawn !! swung by pricepoint and he replaced it with a new one (its still less than 30 days) those little service that they do to customers make me want to buy more from them !!
> 
> so has anyone experienced this problem?, could it be air getting into the system, if so how??
> 
> again kudo to ricky/rockshow and shawn/pricepoint :thumbsup:


Crap. Mine is doing the same thing


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## yahdancer (Nov 17, 2008)

craigxxl said:


> Measure your seatpost from top of clamp to saddle rails. If this figure is less that 190mm you can't fit a Reverb without your saddle been higher than it is now.
> If it is longer than 190mm but less than 300mm you need the 380mm length, this will leave you with an extra 80mm for the minimum insertion required. If it's longer than 300mm than you need the 420mm version.
> Please note that your frame may require a longer minimum insertion in which case that trumps what is marked on the seatpost.


I measured my post and it's about 205mm, but I am having trouble getting the 380 post. If I buy the 420 does that not just get inserted a further 40mm?


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

Lev, unfortunately sounds like yours may be on the way down. Mine is @ SRAM being repaired. Hopefully they have isolated this particular problem. If not, I may be out. Can't have that kind of reliability problem out on the trail. It's just not worth it.


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## Lev (Oct 12, 2004)

attaboy said:


> Lev, unfortunately sounds like yours may be on the way down. Mine is @ SRAM being repaired. Hopefully they have isolated this particular problem. If not, I may be out. Can't have that kind of reliability problem out on the trail. It's just not worth it.


Ya dude, it's done. I spent about an hour yesterday fiddling with it. Did a handlebar bleed, then did a dual port bleed. Finally thought to take it off and check the air pressure. It was around 70 psi I believe. I threw on my pump, got it to about 170 psi, and then heard it start hissing out, watched it go to about 125 psi, and then said F it.

It's going back to the shop today. I'm bummed to see all these recent posts of mechanical failure. I seriously love this thing, and riding yesterday without it was about 15% less fun than usual. I forgot how much of a difference that thing makes, since I've had it for about 8 months. Oh well, I have faith in RS. They have killer CS and I know they'll come through. Will keep you updated.


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## craigxxl (Nov 15, 2010)

yahdancer said:


> I measured my post and it's about 205mm, but I am having trouble getting the 380 post. If I buy the 420 does that not just get inserted a further 40mm?


Just puts another 40mm in the seat tube


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## yahdancer (Nov 17, 2008)

Ha, I was thinking about it ever since I posted and was fairly sure I knew the answer :blush: Guess I will need to carry that extra 0.1 ounces around.


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## istvisinet (May 20, 2008)

2nd one is six months just died on me this weekend. Same problem as before, worked great and then suddenly it started to go down real easy and come back up real slow. About 20 minutes later, just dropped down on me and wouldn't come back up. Checked air pressure and was very low, say 20psi. Tried to pump back up to 250 but it gets to about 150 and then starts going back down with a hissing sound coming from bottom of the post. Worst part is that this happened in the middle of my Moab trip the night before the Porcupine Rim ride. What a way to really bring down the enjoyment factor of the trip. I am sure SRAM will step up with it's great CS and warranty it again, but I have lost all confidence in this product. It is such an integral part of my bike now, that riding without one is a major bummer. Will have to see how #3 works out.


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## Rivet (Sep 3, 2004)

istvisinet said:


> 2nd one is six months just died on me this weekend. Same problem as before, worked great and then suddenly it started to go down real easy and come back up real slow. About 20 minutes later, just dropped down on me and wouldn't come back up. Checked air pressure and was very low, say 20psi. Tried to pump back up to 250 but it gets to about 150 and then starts going back down with a hissing sound coming from bottom of the post. Worst part is that this happened in the middle of my Moab trip the night before the Porcupine Rim ride. What a way to really bring down the enjoyment factor of the trip. I am sure SRAM will step up with it's great CS and warranty it again, but I have lost all confidence in this product. It is such an integral part of my bike now, that riding without one is a major bummer. Will have to see how #3 works out.


I'm on my second one also, about to give up on dropper posts altogether until they get the designs figured out, how hard can it be for a big engineering based company like SRAM? I bring an extra seatpost on all trips now, weak.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Rivet said:


> I'm on my second one also, about to give up on dropper posts altogether until they get the designs figured out, how hard can it be for a big engineering based company like SRAM? I bring an extra seatpost on all trips now, weak.


Mine has held up well so far, after a dozen or so good rides. Did an initial line shortening and very meticulous bleed upon install - no issues yet. Hoping it doesn't become problematic, because I really, really like the thing. If they can make a version with the hose coming out from the bottom collar, it'd be even better not having the cable movement to deal with.

Not getting rid of the old Gravity Dropper post and shim just yet though. Back up is nice.

For best mix of price, fit, function, reliability - the GD posts still win for me. Sure it's a little clunkier, and isn't infinitely adjustable but if things break parts are quick and easy to get, and it's very easy to work on.


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## cesalec (Aug 28, 2008)

I have heard of many people having similar problems with their Reverbs, which to be honest find exceptionally annoying, since this product comes form the great RS and has a premium price 290usd!!! for that price I would expect a top notch product with no design or production problems and failures.... the problem is that people is still paying the price and putting up with a cr+py product!

I was just about to order one but I was completely put off the hunt by all the info I read and people I talked to, said:
wait for RS to come with a solution or new generation, or look somewhere else, but where? 

but.. Most info on the Crankbrothers Joplin 4 is also very negative, and the KS950 is said to be a huge disappointment!

I really want one of these in my Reign, I think it is a must for AM riding, im sick tired of stopping my ride, lowering my post, then stop again extend seatpost, and repeat this process a few times, is NO fun.

Are there any representatives from RS, Crankbrothers, or KS reading all this? I do hope they are taking notes and looking for ways to not improve but effectively get rid all this flaws ASAP.


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## istvisinet (May 20, 2008)

cesalec said:


> I have heard of many people having similar problems with their Reverbs, which to be honest find exceptionally annoying, since this product comes form the great RS and has a premium price 290usd!!! for that price I would expect a top notch product with no design or production problems and failures.... the problem is that people is still paying the price and putting up with a cr+py product!
> 
> I was just about to order one but I was completely put off the hunt by all the info I read and people I talked to, said:
> wait for RS to come with a solution or new generation, or look somewhere else, but where?
> ...


Well said!:thumbsup:


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## morandi (Jun 20, 2008)

I have no problems with my Reverb. It has given me flawless performance since I slapped it on my bike. Abusively used, lots of miles.
That being said, maybe people that have issues should look at the mechanical activated products out there, like the Gravity Dropper. It has an extremely good track record.


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## Yippee_Ki_YayMF (Jan 30, 2011)

I've had no problems either (touch wood). I feel sorry for those that are having issues with it though. But to potential buyers, they are not all bad.


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## Lev (Oct 12, 2004)

cesalec said:


> I have heard of many people having similar problems with their Reverbs, which to be honest find exceptionally annoying, since this product comes form the great RS and has a premium price 290usd!!! for that price I would expect a top notch product with no design or production problems and failures.... the problem is that people is still paying the price and putting up with a cr+py product!
> 
> I was just about to order one but I was completely put off the hunt by all the info I read and people I talked to, said:
> wait for RS to come with a solution or new generation, or look somewhere else, but where?
> ...


Mechanical issues or not, I still love my Reverb. Mine is currently out of service, but hey guess what, bike $hit breaks! We picked an expensive sport. Deal with it. If RS tells me to go F myself, then that's one thing. But from what I've been reading on this thread, it looks like folks are getting their posts replaced.

I would still highly recommend pulling the trigger if anyone is currently on the fence. I didn't realize how awesome the thing was until it broke. It's an integral part of my riding now.


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## ngrn (Jul 7, 2008)

Karve said:


> Does the reverb have any play - side to side?


I have mine today and have the same problem. Is a defect or is normal?

Best regards


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## cesalec (Aug 28, 2008)

Lev said:


> Mechanical issues or not, I still love my Reverb. Mine is currently out of service, but hey guess what, bike $hit breaks! We picked an expensive sport. Deal with it. If RS tells me to go F myself, then that's one thing. But from what I've been reading on this thread, it looks like folks are getting their posts replaced.
> 
> I would still highly recommend pulling the trigger if anyone is currently on the fence. I didn't realize how awesome the thing was until it broke. It's an integral part of my riding now.


Lev, you are right, stuff breaks, and MTB is getting more expensive every year, still, my comment wasnt about breaking it or not , or getting a replacement or not.

The thing is if im putting down 300usd, which is not a little amount of money. I expect the product to be 100% functional out the box, if it does work but after 2 or 3 weeks it starts malfunctioning and then i have to go through the hassle of calling the dealer or RS get a return number or whatever needed, pack, and ship it, then wait for a couple of days or weeks for them to notify me the problem and resolution then waiting for them to ship it back hoping it will work 100%. if the customer service is nice and helpful that is a plus, but if the product dont deliver that is a problem to the company. Warranties also cost them some money you know? :madman:

lets put it this way: you go to best buy and get yourself a nice very expensice LED 50" television from LG, the one on display is obviously working, but when you get home, un pack, install and get ready to enyoy a movie on it, it simply wont turn on, you check everything possible and it never turns on. You have now the hassle to pack your huge tv again, load in your car if it fits and return it to the store in order to get a new one. Would you be happy about that? obviously not. You would be extremely p-off.:madmax: :madman:

Thats all i am saying, there might have been a manufacturing flaw, and there can be batches of these posts malfunctioning, ok it happens such is the manufacturing process in which RS has the moral obligation to recall them and then the hassle of returning them back to he manufacturer. If it is a desing flaw, they SHOULD also recall them and fix it, though this costs a lot of money. :skep:

I just want a reliable product for that price. such as any huge LED TV should work right out of the box. dont you all think? :thumbsup:


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## DWill (Aug 24, 2010)

cesalec said:


> I have heard of many people having similar problems with their Reverbs, which to be honest find exceptionally annoying, since this product comes form the great RS and has a premium price 290usd!!! for that price I would expect a top notch product with no design or production problems and failures.... the problem is that people is still paying the price and putting up with a cr+py product!
> 
> I was just about to order one but I was completely put off the hunt by all the info I read and people I talked to, said:
> wait for RS to come with a solution or new generation, or look somewhere else, but where?
> ...


I've been riding my KS i950r for over a year now 3 to 4 times a week and have not had a single problem with it. It's the best most reliable upgrade I've done to my bike.


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## morandi (Jun 20, 2008)

The big difference between a huge LED TV and an adjustable seatpost is that one does not sit on top of a TV, ride it in the mountains, subject it to all kinds of dirt, water, and mud, move it up and down under full body weight, and subject it to all kinds of torque from weight shifts.
I agree 100% a product should work out of the box, and quality control should be way better, but an adjustable seatpost is subjected to all kinds of abuse that a TV is not.


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## Evan55 (Jul 23, 2009)

Ive been abusing my kindshock for a year and its been flawless.

my reverb POS never even worked straight out of the box, and even after repeatedly bleeding it.

there is no excuse for this pile of garbage by rockshox.


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## chunkypaul (May 2, 2005)

another reverb bites the dust (six months old), really enjoyed it while it worked but it doesn't appear to hold up to regular mtb conditions, so it's been returned

noticed a bit of moment after a recent ride so gave it a bled and all appeared fine - but on the next ride the 1cm of vertical movement reappeared then 30 mins later once dropped the post simply wouldn't return, once home checked the pressure - zero


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

Yippee_Ki_YayMF said:


> I've had no problems either (touch wood). I feel sorry for those that are having issues with it though. But to potential buyers, they are not all bad.


maybe we are the same person... i have the exact same message for my fellow mtbrers...


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## cesalec (Aug 28, 2008)

Evan55 said:



> Ive been abusing my kindshock for a year and its been flawless.
> 
> my reverb POS never even worked straight out of the box, and even after repeatedly bleeding it.
> 
> there is no excuse for this pile of garbage by rockshox.


I just pulled the trigger on a KS i950 I hope it works flawless =)


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## rcjonessnp175 (Aug 2, 2010)

So far my second reverb is working fine, although the silver lock bolt came loose so i locktite the heck out of if and has stayed put since, my dad just bought a specialized command post interested in hearing how that one runs and lasts for him, although i ride alot harder and weigh 195 with gear and such so this could be a factor for these companies. If i were Rockshox i would have the testers be in the 190 to 220 crowd as this will test its live span more realistically then somebody whos only 150lbs ie pro cross country racers. This is an alll mountain post right???

Jonesy


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## Paul_j (Jul 30, 2009)

Just wanted to add my name to the list of dissapointed purchasers of this piece of junk. By the looks of it my warranty repair/replace will also fail. There goes $80 in freight. Serves me right for purchasing a RS product while on an OS holiday. Be nice if RS offered international warranty. Revelation uturn-Dead. Reverb-Dead. Grrrrrr.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

This sucks to hear about all the problems everyone is having. I may be one of the lucky ones, but I have yet to have any problems and I was one of the first to get one. I'm almost 240 fully geared up with a full camelbak and I ride it on some brutal trails in Colorado. I've definitely put the thing through some abuse on steep, technical uphill climbs and fast, rocky descents. I hope it continues to work well for me. It's been a great addition to my ride. 

I'd recommend dialing down the return speed just a little so it's not slamming hard and stopping so suddenly at the end of its travel. It might not help all that much, but it couldn't hurt. It should put less wear on some of the internals.


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

Other than busting my remote mine has been flawless in over 6 months of constant use and abuse (knock on wood). I've installed the new hose and re-bled once, but that's it...


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## rcjonessnp175 (Aug 2, 2010)

Good advice on reducing the return speed. One thing i changed from my first reverb to the second one is this. First one i would normaly have the seat compressed all the way down in between rides, but this second one i keep it fully extended unless im out riding and using it. Its held up so far going to put it to the test at lake Garda italy this weekend i think.

Even with its issues you cant deny this piece of kit is a game changer, atleast it has been for me


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## coiler_guy (Dec 20, 2005)

It's too bad the Reverb has been having so many issues. I had a CB Joplin which was junk and I returned it. I waited for the reverb and it turns out to be a dud, IMO. It's hard to believe that a huge suspension manufacturer like RS can't make a reliable height adjustable seatpost. 

I decided to go with a Gravity Dropper. No seals to blow or hoses that need to be bled out of the box. 

I do agree the height adjustable post is a game changer! I like the idea, just waiting for a company to execute. Hope the GD is the one to do it for me!


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

cesalec said:


> I just pulled the trigger on a KS i950 I hope it works flawless =)


Hate to pee in your cereal, but I picked up an i950 for my other bike, and it was busted out of the box. Went for repairs before its first ride! :madmax:


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## Lev (Oct 12, 2004)

The boys at RockShox came through for me big time! As some of you might recall, my Reverb crapped out on me last week. I took it into my LBS, and in no more than a week I was back up on my brand new Reverb today. Just got back from riding tonight.

I freaking love that thing, and I truly missed it for my 3 rides without it. Here's to hoping for a lucky #2. Sorry to all those who are having issues, but hopefully RS takes care of you. Cheers


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

:thumbsup: Great news Lev! NOT so much for me. Picked up my repaired post this week and it has a damaged hose (about a 1mm square cut in outer layer -- concern is it wearing through) Also, looks like they kinda let a gorilla do the wrenching as the silver collar is marred up. At almost $300 and this being my 3rd go round, I was disappointed. Talked with RS and LBS. We'll see how it goes. I was told new posts and hoses are out of supply for 3 weeks.


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## mykel (Jul 31, 2006)

Hope I'm not puttin the evil eye on meself...

I have an early Reverb, rode hard last year, sat in the freezer all winter (Ontario Canada) then bled, and ridden in anger again this year. So far not an issue.

Keeping fingers crossed.

michael


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## squibbtp (Jul 3, 2009)

*dropping on its own*

about my 5th ride on the post and all of a sudden its started dropping about an inch on its own after I full extend it and pedal for about a minute. Really puts me out of my prime riding position.

Any ideas on what could be wrong with it?


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## rcjonessnp175 (Aug 2, 2010)

Sounds like yours is about to blow. Id check the psi on the bottom and see how much air leaked out.:madman:


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## squibbtp (Jul 3, 2009)

rcjonessnp175 said:


> Sounds like yours is about to blow. Id check the psi on the bottom and see how much air leaked out.:madman:


really after 5 rides...5 hours of use and it might be ready to blow?


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## rcjonessnp175 (Aug 2, 2010)

Ya my first reverb lasted about 6 or so rides and my air seals blew and what your describing is similar to my experience with mine. My second reverb has been running great only had to bleed it once when i shortened the cable. In two weeks ill have my 2011 enduro pro with a command post ill give that a try because these reverbs just cant take simple beatings. My experience anyway.

Jonesy:madman:


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## squibbtp (Jul 3, 2009)

wondering if these gravity posts are worth the trouble anymore


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## og1 (Mar 3, 2008)

Can anyone who got the new hose kit hook me up with the seat end of their old hose? I desperately need the barb fitting at the seat end mine broke off when removing my bike from the work stand and I cannot find even the replacement hose kit anywhere. I just need the seat end barb and I'm willing to pay good money for it. LBS called and was told to send the whole post in for repair...no thanks


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## djball (Nov 3, 2010)

I'm going to wait for the new Fox droppers... hopefully they get it right.


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## Obscured (Oct 8, 2004)

My Reverb has just died too, leaking air from the seals, I got it in Jan and rode it about 2-3 days a week, for 280 euro I was expecting more, I also had to do 2 full bleds in that time. 

It will take about 3 weeks before i get my replacment, i should have bought from chainreaction and not evans cycles, as evans are slow to get work done.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

og1 said:


> Can anyone who got the new hose kit hook me up with the seat end of their old hose? I desperately need the barb fitting at the seat end mine broke off when removing my bike from the work stand and I cannot find even the replacement hose kit anywhere. I just need the seat end barb and I'm willing to pay good money for it. LBS called and was told to send the whole post in for repair...no thanks


I'm not sure if I saved mine but I think I might have. If I can dig it up it's yours. Why don't you just order the new hose kit from wherever you got your post from? It should be free under warranty.


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## Yippee_Ki_YayMF (Jan 30, 2011)

The 2012 Reverb. Not sure if this has been posted. I only flicked back a couple of pages on the thread.

All black and faster.

Hope it is more reliable that the current model. Although I haven't had any problems. :thumbsup:


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## rcjonessnp175 (Aug 2, 2010)

Cool when is 2012 version available? And it be nice if thiers improvements for sure


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

Yippee_Ki_YayMF said:


> The 2012 Reverb. Not sure if this has been posted. I only flicked back a couple of pages on the thread.
> 
> All black and faster.
> 
> ...


Oh look the silver bit is now black so that you can really tell when they've had the spanner/wrench around it to take it apart!  

I've had mine a week, so far - so good!.... :thumbsup:


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## og1 (Mar 3, 2008)

BaeckerX1 said:


> I'm not sure if I saved mine but I think I might have. If I can dig it up it's yours. Why don't you just order the new hose kit from wherever you got your post from? It should be free under warranty.


I got my post off eBay, nobody reputable had them in stock when I needed it. If you have your old hose I'd love to have it. PM me and I'll cover shipping costs.


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## og1 (Mar 3, 2008)

deleted


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## sonypete (Jun 15, 2008)

I had a recent discussion with a Rockshox employee from the service department. Apparently the new 2012 do not have an design changes. He went on to say that the main issue with the seals is that the bottom seal cover that screwed into place was not torqued enough to eliminate it from working itself loose overtime and eventually loosing pressure. I forget the actual name of the part he was referring to. He said the change was made earlier this year but due to stock movement ones being sold still were prior to the torque fix.

Mine survived about 2 months until my bike shop decided to clamp it by the exposed upper tube surface. The surface actually didn't get scuffed but the hydro line got flattened and the upper tube developed allot of play. Not just 1-2mm of left to right motion but allot of forward and back movement. I ended up riding it for another 2 week and eventually lost air overnight and would not keep more then 50psi. I originally thought it was due to the play but after my rockshox discussion it seemed I had two separate issues.

My shop bought me a new one. I then called Rockshox as I was worried maybe I should holdout for the 2012 model. After he told me of the issue at hand now I'm worried the replacement my shop bought will have the same issue. I wonder if Rockshox would be able to tell by serial if its after the fix or if they would correct it before I go riding it to eventually have it die on me *shrugs*


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## ecrepeau (Aug 25, 2010)

Just came back across this thread. I have had mine since Dec. 2010 and have had no issues. Keep it fully extended all the time unless needing to drop it on the trail and I never hang my bike.


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## morandi (Jun 20, 2008)

ecrepeau said:


> Just came back across this thread. I have had mine since Dec. 2010 and have had no issues. Keep it fully extended all the time unless needing to drop it on the trail and I never hang my bike.


I have had mine since Dec 2010 as well, with no issues. I thought I was totally in the clear, but on a recent (wet/muddy) ride the seals blew on me. It sunk down and would not fully return. Had to send it in. I still think its an excellent component, and the best adjustable post out there.


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

*Stronger.*



gretch said:


> You can use a standard Xloc remote piston assembly to fix the Reverb.... like this one:
> 
> http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=37132
> 
> Basically, you need to remove the silver sleeve and use the o-ring from the original Reverb piston assembly when you reassemble... I did this mod on mine a few months ago and it has worked flawlessly since.


Yes that will work fine. But I'm talking about making a piston that will not break without destroying the entire remote assembly (which is currently available for around $50 at any rock shox dealer). I want a stronger actuator piston.

I was riding and stood up to climb a steep pitch and caught my shorts on the lever and broke it right off.

Its a small diameter piece of cast metal. Billet will be several measures stronger and I'm hoping to get them made for less than 10 bucks a piece. which would put the reverb piston in the obsolescence bin.


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

I broke my remote piston last weekend and was P!&&ed. Tried calling Rock shock and they don't offer just the piston, have to buy the entire remote lever assembly. So with a race coming up and no dropper post I ordered the assembly. :madmax:

Now, knowing by reading here, many people are having the same issue with the junky cast iron part, I went to my local machine shop and inquired about making a better piston. I am planning to devise a piston that is a little different and several times stronger to replace the weak link. 

If this works, how many of you reverb owners would like to have a stronger piece or just having a replacement part that is not 50 dollars. I'm just trying to gauge interest. The part, if produced, is cheaper with quantity. If rock shox don't want to supply the masses for their product, I will, and without breaking copyright laws. :thumbsup:

Let me know and I'll keep you all posted on the progress.


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

You can use a standard Xloc remote piston assembly to fix the Reverb.... like this one:

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=37132

Basically, you need to remove the silver sleeve and use the o-ring from the original Reverb piston assembly when you reassemble... I did this mod on mine a few months ago and it has worked flawlessly since.


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

OK.... I get where you are going with your idea now... sorry, my head is screwed on backwards today... I think your idea has merit. I ended up running my remote under the bars to avoid breaking it again. Its definitely WAY too fragile for a mtb component. 

I would definitely buy one if it works out.


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## og1 (Mar 3, 2008)

sonypete said:


> I had a recent discussion with a Rockshox employee from the service department. Apparently the new 2012 do not have an design changes. He went on to say that the main issue with the seals is that the bottom seal cover that screwed into place was not torqued enough to eliminate it from working itself loose overtime and eventually loosing pressure. I forget the actual name of the part he was referring to. He said the change was made earlier this year but due to stock movement ones being sold still were prior to the torque fix.


Well then someone up there is lying to us because the guy in tech service told me it was redesigned. At least as far as the hose is concerned.


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## marshalolson (Jun 27, 2007)

2 months, 30 rides, toasted air seal. bummed.

i have also had to replace the line because of an issue setting the barb when shortening the line, had to bleed the system several times, and felt there was a very "notchy" action at the top of the stroke when compression and a notch in the middle of the stroke when extending. i also felt the return was way too slow even with the adjuster at full + speed. w


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## Bicycle019 (Jan 23, 2004)

Three and a half rides here before mine blew the air seal. Back to QBP for repair now. Also developed a decent amount of front to back play as well in those three and a half rides. I'd estimate that when fully extended I could move the saddle fore/aft about four millimeters. My brother's Reverb is still functioning fine though after over a dozen rides.

Mine was marked with a mid March 2011 production date. RS tech told me that it was the loosening issue w/the base seal that caused the air leakage. Didn't have an answer as to why it slopped out so fast though. 

Great post....when it worked.

Third significant RS issue I've personally had in the past 15 months. 

1. 2010 Revelation Team Air U Turn - Uturn clip broke 20 minutes into first ride in Fruita, dropping me to from 150 to 120mm of travel for the weekend. Warrantied by RS, sold fork immediately after new one showed up.

2. 2010 Reba Team 29'er - two issues on one fork. The lower leg castings were incorrect (common issue) causing very poor wheel alignment. Brake bosses also cast incorrectly, brakes would not align until post mounts were ground significantly. 

3. Reverb mentioned above died in three and half rides into it's life.


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## dsully575 (Feb 23, 2004)

I posted on here 4 weeks ago that mine blew up for the third time and my LBS mechanic couldn't fix it, so off to RS it went.

That was FOUR EFFING WEEKS AGO and RS still hasn't fixed and returned my post yet. Even if you allow a week for delivery, they've still had it for a minimum of 3 weeks!! The shop where I bought it is fairly big and the mechanic said RS has 5 other posts besides mine they've had to send in. 6 posts from 1 shop in a 1 month period.:madmax:

So my guess is the reason it's taking so long is that RS is drowning in faulty posts with no sure-fire way to fix them. I just wish they would do the right thing: come up with a way to fix them and do it ASAP so people can get their posts back OR, admit their post is a POS and refund everyone's hard earned money!!:madman:


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## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

*6 months no problems*

Mine has been perfect as well. Used it all winter in the Pacific NorthWet.

But, I now need the barbed hose fitting at the saddle side of the hose. Anybody else that installed the new hose kit have one? Anyone?


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## BPSarge (Oct 9, 2007)

Mind comes in Tuesday. Coming off years of a reliable Gravity Dropper. 
Hoping I made the right choice!


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## og1 (Mar 3, 2008)

subydoo said:


> Mine has been perfect as well. Used it all winter in the Pacific NorthWet.
> 
> But, I now need the barbed hose fitting at the saddle side of the hose. Anybody else that installed the new hose kit have one? Anyone?


Get in line dude. Parts support for this POS is a freaking joke..


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## greasemeat (Oct 23, 2009)

rcjonessnp175 said:


> Cool when is 2012 version available? And it be nice if thiers improvements for sure


July apparently for both revised reverb & the white shocks


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## sonypete (Jun 15, 2008)

og1 said:


> Well then someone up there is lying to us because the guy in tech service told me it was redesigned. At least as far as the hose is concerned.


Well they did goto a new style hose and thats most likely what there referring to. But that came in before the 2012 model. But most issues related to this post aren't hose related.


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## DWill (Aug 24, 2010)

Man, you guys have some issues with your posts. 

Mine has worked perfectly for over a year now. Not a single problem ever. 

Of course it's a KS maybe that's why….


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## dsully575 (Feb 23, 2004)

DWill said:


> Man, you guys have some issues with your posts.
> 
> Mine has worked perfectly for over a year now. Not a single problem ever.
> 
> Of course it's a KS maybe that's why&#8230;.


That's very helpful, thanks.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

DWill said:


> Man, you guys have some issues with your posts.
> 
> Mine has worked perfectly for over a year now. Not a single problem ever.
> 
> Of course it's a KS maybe that's why&#8230;.


Yep. Because none of the KS posts have had any troubles whatsoever. Yep. Riiiiiiight. Lots of stories on the web/this site about people blowing up their KS posts, and I've personally seen two die while on rides.

My Reverb is still fine - cut and bleed when installed, some hard miles since then, and no trouble so far...

Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll stay fine, maybe not.

The best overall reliability of any of the dropper posts seems to be the Gravity Dropper posts. Preset stops, not the greatest looks, but the cable at least exits from the bottom of the exposed post, which is nice. I've got one on my hardtail (seat post size means no Reverb there) and I like it very much. though I love the functionality of the Reverb on the other bike more. :thumbsup:


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## dsully575 (Feb 23, 2004)

scrublover said:


> The best overall reliability of any of the dropper posts seems to be the Gravity Dropper posts. Preset stops, not the greatest looks, but the cable at least exits from the bottom of the exposed post, which is nice. I've got one on my hardtail (seat post size means no Reverb there) and I like it very much. though I love the functionality of the Reverb on the other bike more. :thumbsup:


I miss my Gravity Dropper! At least it worked.

The reason I got a GD in the first place was that at the time, my 2 bikes (Yeti 575 and Turner Spot) took 27.2 posts. Also, there wasn't a lot on the market back then, not that that's been fixed now in the 27.2 mm category.

I had it for 3 years and it worked flawlessly--except for the 3 times it broke. It got stuck down once, the magnet housing broke off the post once and the section of the post that telescopes snapped in half on a g-out (luckily I didn't get hurt but that scared the ***** out of me and ultimately was the biggest influence in my decision to sell it).

All that being said, GD fixed it no questions asked all 3 times--greatest customer service ever!!--and aside from those 3 issues, it worked flawlessly the entire time I had it. But, bike seat tubes started getting bigger and I wasn't too fond of shimming up to make the GD work so I sold it.

Biggest mistake I ever made, as the Reverb I got stuck with is/was a lemon from the get-go.

It sucks though. Dropper posts are a game changer, at least for me personally. I have short arms but long legs and have trouble getting behind the saddle without dropping it. So a dropper post evens up the score for my riding. It seems like they all have troubles, some just more than others.


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## -C- (Oct 26, 2006)

q2xltrgt said:


> I broke my remote piston last weekend and was P!&&ed. Tried calling Rock shock and they don't offer just the piston, have to buy the entire remote lever assembly. So with a race coming up and no dropper post I ordered the assembly. :madmax:
> 
> Now, knowing by reading here, many people are having the same issue with the junky cast iron part, I went to my local machine shop and inquired about making a better piston. I am planning to devise a piston that is a little different and several times stronger to replace the weak link.
> 
> ...


I'd definatly be interested in this. Having also broken my lever and not actually crashing with it! (RHS lever under the bars on the left).

To be fair I kicked off to the SRAM tech guys and they agreed to warranty it, so its clearly a design issue. In hindsight, I think this post needs a different lever design rather than a bodged shock remote!

If you do remake this plunger assembly, could you also make one with a shorter throw? I'm sure it could also be reworked, part of the problem is I think the best part of an inches worth of travel.


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## istvisinet (May 20, 2008)

Would love a remote lever design the KS unit has.


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## sawbonz (Oct 14, 2009)

I broke my remote piston last weekend and was P!&&ed. Tried calling Rock shock and they don't offer just the piston, have to buy the entire remote lever assembly. So with a race coming up and no dropper post I ordered the assembly. 

Now, knowing by reading here, many people are having the same issue with the junky cast iron part, I went to my local machine shop and inquired about making a better piston. I am planning to devise a piston that is a little different and several times stronger to replace the weak link. 

If this works, how many of you reverb owners would like to have a stronger piece or just having a replacement part that is not 50 dollars. I'm just trying to gauge interest. The part, if produced, is cheaper with quantity. If rock shox don't want to supply the masses for their product, I will, and without breaking copyright laws. 


Count me in on this


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

DWill said:


> Man, you guys have some issues with your posts.
> 
> Mine has worked perfectly for over a year now. Not a single problem ever.
> 
> Of course it's a KS maybe that's why&#8230;.


Yeah, riiiiight!
My i950 came out of the box w/ vertical play. It went back to Rick twice before a single ride and still has some vertical play (1/16"), enough to where you can hear and feel it knock under you when you go over bumps. AND, he still owes me shipping from this last go-around. NICE!


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## nixgame22 (Apr 10, 2008)

Pau11y said:


> Yeah, riiiiight!
> My i950 came out of the box w/ vertical play. It went back to Rick twice before a single ride and still has some vertical play (1/16"), enough to where you can hear and feel it knock under you when you go over bumps. AND, he still owes me shipping from this last go-around. NICE!


Agreed. The KS that I had worked 80% at best of a perfect operations. 
It was ranked 3rd out the the Reverb and Command Post that I've had.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

nixgame22 said:


> Agreed. The KS that I had worked 80% at best of a perfect operations.
> It was ranked 3rd out the the Reverb and Command Post that I've had.


I rebuilt a Joplin 3R and it has NO (vertical) play... So for me, the KS is below the worse post ever conceived!


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## eighty (May 3, 2004)

gretch said:


> You can use a standard Xloc remote piston assembly to fix the Reverb.... like this one:
> 
> Basically, you need to remove the silver sleeve and use the o-ring from the original Reverb piston assembly when you reassemble... I did this mod on mine a few months ago and it has worked flawlessly since.


So has anybody else used the Xloc piston/button in the Reverb remote? I snapped my remote button today and figured I'd just order the part and try it. It was attempted earlier in this post, but gretch seems to have figured it out -

I'll call SRAM as well but have a feeling they may say it's my fault, my problem. We'll see...


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## nrf000 (May 21, 2009)

subydoo said:


> Mine has been perfect as well. Used it all winter in the Pacific NorthWet.
> 
> But, I now need the barbed hose fitting at the saddle side of the hose. Anybody else that installed the new hose kit have one? Anyone?


I broke the barbed hose fitting on the saddle side as well.

Did you find replacement parts for this yet?


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

nrf000 said:


> I broke the barbed hose fitting on the saddle side as well.
> 
> Did you find replacement parts for this yet?


I think that this design, with the rotating peice that slides over the barbed fitting is causing all these breakages. Mine rotated around, caught the collar under compression and broke it too. They need to re-evaluate that design.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

IMO, the simplest solution to the barb breaking issue is to have the line exit from the collar between the upper inner and outer post. The line won't be moving around when the post is going up and down, so you can have a nice static line run that won't be getting snagged/rotated/whatever. 

I have no idea about design hurdles involved, but can't imagine it should be that difficult. 

And if the connections are beefed up to resole the breakage issues, for the functionality of the post, I think most of us end users would be fine with another few grams of weight if it means we don't break ****.


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## ratpick (Mar 24, 2008)

CharacterZero said:


> I think that this design, with the rotating peice that slides over the barbed fitting is causing all these breakages. Mine rotated around, caught the collar under compression and broke it too. They need to re-evaluate that design.


Had exactly this problem as well.. slightly crushed cable and broken barb. Sucks you can't buy this part separately. Guess I'll call RS and register my problem in the hope that they'll make the part available.

Otherwise love the post


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## og1 (Mar 3, 2008)

Update on my saga: finally got stupid hose barb. On ride today hit small rut seat spun nearly 45 degrees sideways. Figured seat clamp was loose since you have to run it so dam loose with this thing, but oh no I discover that the head of the post where the seat clamps on has spun in the upper tube. It's now loose if i turn it back it goes beyond straight...also now have tons of play fore/aft in the post. It had none before just a tiny bit of rotational play. 

Guess it's going back to SRAM now.

This was it's 3rd ride. Less than 25 miles on it total.


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## ratpick (Mar 24, 2008)

og1 said:


> Update on my saga: finally got stupid hose barb. On ride today hit small rut seat spun nearly 45 degrees sideways. Figured seat clamp was loose since you have to run it so dam loose with this thing, but oh no I discover that the head of the post where the seat clamps on has spun in the upper tube. It's now loose if i turn it back it goes beyond straight...also now have tons of play fore/aft in the post. It had none before just a tiny bit of rotational play.
> 
> Guess it's going back to SRAM now.
> 
> This was it's 3rd ride. Less than 25 miles on it total.


Bummer.. can you share who you contacted at SRAM/Rock Shox to get the barb? I can't even find the right number to call on their website.


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## in the trees (Mar 24, 2005)

SRAM Contact: 312-664-8800


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## og1 (Mar 3, 2008)

SRAM will be of no help to you for a barb. They say they don't have any and dont know when they will. I tried multiple times. I was able to get a barb from a friend that got the warranty hose replacement.


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

Has anybody had the issue of the inner post twisting?..... I had a crash and after the crash the post was twisted. Now it will twist sometimes while riding. Wondering if there is a fix for that?


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## og1 (Mar 3, 2008)

scottg said:


> Has anybody had the issue of the inner post twisting?..... I had a crash and after the crash the post was twisted. Now it will twist sometimes while riding. Wondering if there is a fix for that?


See my post above yours. I'd bet it's the head spinning on your inner tube. The way it's built I don't think the inner tube can spin in the outer tube.


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## deadbolt (Mar 7, 2006)

Didn't realize this thread was here and posted about my broken barb somewhere else.

Anyway, If anyone has or knows where I can get a barb it would be _MUCH_ appreciated...


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## hardboiled (Jun 10, 2006)

first ride on mine today. broke the remote piston in the same place several others have. no crash, didn't drop the bike, just brushed the remote with my leg while getting off the bike after a techie climb and it snapped right off. I'm impressed that there are folks who haven't broken it yet, I can't imagine it could survive any kind of crash.


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## sawbonz (Oct 14, 2009)

hardboiled said:


> first ride on mine today. broke the remote piston in the same place several others have. no crash, didn't drop the bike, just brushed the remote with my leg while getting off the bike after a techie climb and it snapped right off. I'm impressed that there are folks who haven't broken it yet, I can't imagine it could survive any kind of crash.


Total POS design only trumped by the fact that you cant get a replacement piston. You can use an xloc remote to remedy this.


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## sonypete (Jun 15, 2008)

hardboiled said:


> first ride on mine today. broke the remote piston in the same place several others have. no crash, didn't drop the bike, just brushed the remote with my leg while getting off the bike after a techie climb and it snapped right off. I'm impressed that there are folks who haven't broken it yet, I can't imagine it could survive any kind of crash.


Why the heck was your leg going over the handlebar? lol


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## eighty (May 3, 2004)

sawbonz said:


> Total POS design only trumped by the fact that you cant get a replacement piston. You can use an xloc remote to remedy this.


So is the Xloc remote stronger/better than the standard Reverb remote?

I called SRAM about my broken lever and they said since I "crashed" on it that is was my problem. Sort of expected that...

I was able to find a "Reverb Remote Button Assembly, Right" from a couple of online places so I went ahead and ordered one. I'm hoping that has everything I need because I took a closer look at the damage and it looks like the plastic sleeve that guides the piston into the remote body cracked in half.

I'll share what the contents of the package are once it arrives; if this kit covers all the broken remote parts, my plan is to loosen the torque on the remote clamp (slightly) so if it gets hit again it twists on the bar rather than snaps that flimsy lever.


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## eighty (May 3, 2004)

*11.6815.016.020 Contents*

I couldn't find any pictures of it online so I just called SRAM and figured out the contents of the Right Button Assembly Part (SRAM PN: 11.6815.016.020)

They told me it includes:
- Button, XLOC, Right Black
- M3 x 0.5 Set Screw
- Master Rubber Shaft Boot 
- Master Retainer
- Reverb Master Piston
- Quad Ring Retainer Pin


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## hardboiled (Jun 10, 2006)

sawbonz said:


> Total POS design only trumped by the fact that you cant get a replacement piston. You can use an xloc remote to remedy this.


I figure they'll send me a new remote assembly but my LBS is sorting it out. I wonder if the xloc is a slightly different and more durable design?



sonypete said:


> Why the heck was your leg going over the handlebar? lol


my remote is mounted under the bar.



eighty said:


> I called SRAM about my broken lever and they said since I "crashed" on it that is was my problem. Sort of expected that...


there is no way in hell I am paying to repair this and my LBS has my back. a firm finger flick to the remote would have put more force on it than I did to cause the damage. in fact, I am sure that I could break it again with a well placed flick of my middle finger. makes me wonder what I'm going to do when I get the post back. I wanted it for a couple of races this summer but there is no way the remote is durable enough to last as a day-to-day accessory on my bike. I certainly can't say I'm surprised to have a problem with the post, but I am surprised by the breathtaking lack of durability on this part.


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## Bati (Sep 25, 2005)

I installed my Reverb in March. About 15-20 rides and no issues, just fore/aft play and growing 1% every ride. Fingers crossed.


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

og1 said:


> See my post above yours. I'd bet it's the head spinning on your inner tube. The way it's built I don't think the inner tube can spin in the outer tube.


That's all it was... thanks.

Have had my reverb since september. Too slow out of the box, until I bled it. Rode a bunch in the fall, rode it quite a bit in winter (snow and temps as cold as -20), and have averaged about 5 days per week since April. Only issue was my crash where the head twisted, and just twisted it back and it is good to go. Love it. My remote is mounted flat on top of the bars pointed forward - I press it with the side of the knuckle on my left index finger. Never been damaged in a crash.

I have had joplin, speedball, and Rase. Tried Kindshock. Reverb is the best one for me.


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## eighty (May 3, 2004)

scottg said:


> My remote is mounted flat on top of the bars pointed forward - I press it with the side of the knuckle on my left index finger. Never been damaged in a crash.


That sounds interesting - do you have a picture of that remote setup? Is it difficult to actuate that way?


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

eighty said:


> That sounds interesting - do you have a picture of that remote setup? Is it difficult to actuate that way?


Here it is:








I think it is really slick set up like this - easy to reach while still gripping bars, and can still brake with middle finger if you need to. I hit the remote many many times during a ride - not just for full up and full down - I fine tune seat position depending upon how steep a climb is. I have helped a couple of friends set theirs up the same way and they both like it too. I mounted it as flat as possible so that it is flat on the ground if the bike is upside down.


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## Bati (Sep 25, 2005)

scottg said:


> Here it is:
> View attachment 621268
> 
> 
> I think it is really slick set up like this - easy to reach while still gripping bars, and can still brake with middle finger if you need to. I hit the remote many many times during a ride - not just for full up and full down - I fine tune seat position depending upon how steep a climb is. I have helped a couple of friends set theirs up the same way and they both like it too. I mounted it as flat as possible so that it is flat on the ground if the bike is upside down.


That's soooo newschooler. I can't imagine me riding switch on a singletrack!!!


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## helimech (Mar 21, 2006)

Has anyone had any issues with the seat hiegth falling from full extended while sitting on it and riding? Was bled and the press. was checked and mine falls? Thanks.


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## dsully575 (Feb 23, 2004)

helimech said:


> Has anyone had any issues with the seat hiegth falling from full extended while sitting on it and riding? Was bled and the press. was checked and mine falls? Thanks.












If you would take the ime to read some of the previous posts you'd see that a few have had that problem--myself included. I'm not trying to be rude but c'mon man.


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## helimech (Mar 21, 2006)

DSDuke said:


> If you would take the ime to read some of the previous posts you'd see that a few have had that problem--myself included. I'm not trying to be rude but c'mon man.


No, I don't have the time to sit here thru 13 pages and 606 post to find my answer. I was looking for a quicky, whats so bad about that captain.


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

helimech, 

Numerous have had that problem. It is the beginning of your Reverb failing -- seals blowing out -- and you'll need to take it to your LBS and get it warrantied. I think DSDuke's frustration is just that this thread has pretty much been about that issue for past few weeks. You'll probably want to look at those posts as it will likely help you with both understanding what is wrong with your Reverb and the process of getting it replaced.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

I feel for you guys, I've had the dud Reverb on my first one, but so far my second one has been working flawlessly for 3 months now. I'd be pleased for it to last the season.

My main issue with it is the full extended length. Unfortunately, My bike frame coupled with my short legs requires me to 'find' my normal riding height every time I use it. So, I end up using it less than what I really would like to. I can quickly raise it to my riding height if I'm on the road but on the trail it is a different story. Does anyone know if Push has come up with a solution for us short-legged riders or has anyone else come up with a modification? I'd love to be able to just hit the button and have the saddle go back to my climbing position.


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## an_original_name (Mar 9, 2010)

Laterilus said:


> I feel for you guys, I've had the dud Reverb on my first one, but so far my second one has been working flawlessly for 3 months now. I'd be pleased for it to last the season.
> 
> My main issue with it is the full extended length. Unfortunately, My bike frame coupled with my short legs requires me to 'find' my normal riding height every time I use it. So, I end up using it less than what I really would like to. I can quickly raise it to my riding height if I'm on the road but on the trail it is a different story. Does anyone know if Push has come up with a solution for us short-legged riders or has anyone else come up with a modification? I'd love to be able to just hit the button and have the saddle go back to my climbing position.


it was mentioned earlier in the thread that some people have been tying a bit of fishing line or something similar from the seat rails to the seatpost clamp at the right length to stop the post from extending to full travel. not ideal obviously but it is better than nothing i guess.


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## ecrepeau (Aug 25, 2010)

an_original_name said:


> it was mentioned earlier in the thread that some people have been tying a bit of fishing line or something similar from the seat rails to the seatpost clamp at the right length to stop the post from extending to full travel. not ideal obviously but it is better than nothing i guess.


I would say change over to the Specialized Blacklight post which comes in different sizes for this exact reason.


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## sas2 (Apr 24, 2007)

http://shop.18bikes.co.uk/products.php?plid=m10b59s397p1478

These barbs are an upgrade for Rockshox Reverb height adjustable seatposts. The barb is now protected by a thread-on aluminium shroud, instead of the original rubber boot. These are an official Rockshox product and should prevent damage to the (slightly vulnerable) hose barb. This will fit all Rockshox Reverb seatposts, but will require bleeding once fitted. If you don't feel comfortable completing this work, get in touch and we can sort it for you


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## ratpick (Mar 24, 2008)

sas2 said:


> These barbs are an upgrade for Rockshox Reverb height adjustable seatposts. The barb is now protected by a thread-on aluminium shroud, instead of the original rubber boot. These are an official Rockshox product and should prevent damage to the (slightly vulnerable) hose barb. This will fit all Rockshox Reverb seatposts, but will require bleeding once fitted. If you don't feel comfortable completing this work, get in touch and we can sort it for you


Excellent.. this is what we've been waiting for. No delivery to the US, though.

Any US parts suppliers going to pick this up?


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## dsully575 (Feb 23, 2004)

My Reverb has been nothing but trouble--as I've mentioned in several posts previously. I just got it back after Rock Shox had it for 4 weeks "repairing" it. 

Well, today on only my second ride with the "repaired" post, it failed again.:madman::madmax:

It won't hold air and completely collapses/will not stay up. I check the air pressure and it has none. It will only take 170psi even though the cap says 250. I pump it up as far as I can and at the first hint of saddle pressure, WHOOSH--out it all goes. I pump it up again, WHOOSH--out it all goes again.

Sounds like maybe another blown seal?? I don't know. What I do know is that I've had it with this post.


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## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

I second the Q about where to get one of these new barbs. I am in need, anyone?


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Well...it happened to me too. After defending this post and talking about how great it is...mine failed yesterday. The post can be pushed down or pulled up at will. I had to finish the last part of my ride standing every time I needed to pedal. Doesn't give me a lot of confidence for longer, more remote rides.  There's no damage to the hose or barb. Internals must have crapped out. Hopefully SRAM takes care of me, because I love my Reverb. 

I was sympathetic to everyone else's issues, but I was hoping they were the exceptions and not the rule. It seems it's not a matter of if it will fail, but when. I guess we'll see how the replacement works.


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## deadbolt (Mar 7, 2006)

subydoo said:


> I second the Q about where to get one of these new barbs. I am in need, anyone?


I found a shop that had a few of the 'old style' hose kits. I don't know if they'll ship 'em, but if you want their info PM me.


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## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

deadbolt said:


> I found a shop that had a few of the 'old style' hose kits. I don't know if they'll ship 'em, but if you want their info PM me.


Thanks deadbolt, but I found a hose kit, I'm looking for one of those new barb fittings someone posted a pic of up above. Cant seem to find it anywhere but the UK.


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## deadbolt (Mar 7, 2006)

subydoo said:


> Thanks deadbolt, but I found a hose kit, I'm looking for one of those new barb fittings someone posted a pic of up above. Cant seem to find it anywhere but the UK.


They'll be available from RockShox in the States in a couple of weeks&#8230;

This is why hose kits are so scarce right now. They stopped production of the old ones and don't have any more. The new ones won't be done for a couple of weeks.


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## Jamie_MTB (Nov 18, 2004)

*RockShox Reverb Stealth*


Reverb Stealth by james_ferguson, on Flickr

Source

*RockShox Reverb Stealth - *

all camouflage, all animated Does your inventions, where one wonders why there's not likely anyone have guessed is where the solution is so obvious and natural? As Elmar me a sawn-up Scott from the inside frame with a driven reverb Stealth Seatpost under his nose, was one of these on-the-forehead moments gossip. Do not be annoying looping or additional train stops interfering with the optics of the frame, no more exterior finish line more in danger of damage to: Technically, the stealth of the regular Reverb shines with 125 mm of adjustment, but with an extra dose of smartness. *The only downer: the joy of donors will be only 2012 as an exclusive OEM Part of bikes from Trek and Scott found.* New Reverb stealth but also for the regular model is a 100 mm version. Elmar's reasoning is clear: ". Has for small riders and especially women turned out that 125 mm of adjustment are often too much" The regular Reverb will be 2012 also equipped with a reinforced cable outlet, will offer better protection against kinking of the cable . Reverb and Reverb Stealth are for 2012 entirely in flat black without a polished trim ring to be available.


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## ecrepeau (Aug 25, 2010)

toons101 said:


> Reverb Stealth by james_ferguson, on Flickr
> 
> Source
> 
> ...


What???? Some ESL classes are in order here.


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## Jamie_MTB (Nov 18, 2004)

The source is in German! so blame Google Chrome translator!!


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## Inigo Montoya (Dec 25, 2007)

new Reverb design
http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/rockshox-shows-reverb-stealth-at-passportes-du-soleil-30767


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Inigo Montoya said:


> new Reverb design
> http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/rockshox-shows-reverb-stealth-at-passportes-du-soleil-30767


That is great execution...but:

1. Internal cable routing doesn't mean they've fixed the seal issue!
2. Not compatible with 99% of frames on the market today.

I hope this means that they can build one with an attachment lower by the collar, like a GD...


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## -C- (Oct 26, 2006)

Well, following on from my post on the previous page, I ended up with a whole new Reverb, due to supply issues and pressure on the UK distributor. What a sh*t state of affairs. Someone needs to pull their finger out and sort out the spares issue for this.

Also, the person who signed off that lever needs at best, taking outside and being given a good kicking, at worst a bullet to the head. How that ever made it past the 'would it be a good idea if' meeting I will never know. What an absolute joke.

Anyhow, I must be a sucker for punishment, as the 3 ride old KS i900 off my Mrs's bike shat its guts out a few weeks ago too. Good to see the UK disty for them is about as efficient as Fishers, and also can't fix the bloody thing. The shop offered to exchange it for a Reverb. Now we have 2 with stupid levers.

So, is anyone brave enough to try and modify another hydraulic lever to work the post? Something that is not so weak that it falls off if you even look at it the wrong way?


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## Samos (Jul 16, 2009)

Hi there,

I'm looking to add a Reverb to my 09 Giant Reign. My frame is a M size. Can someone measure the distance between the saddle rails and the grey collar in full extension.

I'm afraid that it could be to high for me...


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

The info about post length, etc, is all in the first post in the thread.


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## Yippee_Ki_YayMF (Jan 30, 2011)

*Another view of the stealth*


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## Hikers Only (Oct 18, 2010)

So I haven't read every post so I hope i'm not repeating. My reverb was running slow even after bleeding. I contacted Rockshox and they sent me a new version of the hose that was stronger than the origional. Ever since then it's running super fast and I'm absolutely loving it!


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## dsully575 (Feb 23, 2004)

rednova75 said:


> So I haven't read every post so I hope i'm not repeating. My reverb was running slow even after bleeding. I contacted Rockshox and they sent me a new version of the hose that was stronger than the origional. Ever since then it's running super fast and I'm absolutely loving it!


Good luck. Mine failed on the first ride after the new hose. I think the seals are the main issue. I'm getting a completely new post tomorrow after mine failed on only its second ride after being "fixed" by Rock Shox.

Here's hoping I have better luck with the new one!!


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## wormvine (Oct 27, 2005)

rednova75 said:


> So I haven't read every post so I hope i'm not repeating. My reverb was running slow even after bleeding. I contacted Rockshox and they sent me a new version of the hose that was stronger than the origional. Ever since then it's running super fast and I'm absolutely loving it!


What number did you use?
I have one saved but haven't tried it yet.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

CharacterZero said:


> That is great execution...but:
> 
> 1. Internal cable routing doesn't mean they've fixed the seal issue!
> 2. Not compatible with 99% of frames on the market today.
> ...


Exactly.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

scrublover said:


> Exactly.


+1 from me, too.

So with the Stealth, when it dies and you have to send it in for service, can you easily disconnect the hydro line? How much of a pain will it be to fit a solid post back in the frame with that line knocking around in there? I think this is an improvement that I'd pass on.


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## Bicycle019 (Jan 23, 2004)

I had my post fixed and returned to me in about a week and a half from when I mailed it using QBP Shock Treatment Center. Any dealer that orders from QBP should be able to offer this service. Turn around was very fast, and my post feels good so far after servicing. I'm hoping that having a third party like QBP do the repair work would be better than the SRAM tech department. Based on feedback others have posted going through QBP also seems to be a much faster alternative as well. My post was originally ordered through QBP so there was no charge for the return or repair.


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## squibbtp (Jul 3, 2009)

mine was sent back a week ago to rock shox will have to see how long it takes to get it back.


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## squibbtp (Jul 3, 2009)

mitja said:


> Here it is: weight of out of the box RS Reverb in 31.6 380mm


do you know how long your cable was out of the box?


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

I took mine out on its first ride Friday, air seals had blown by the time I got it back, return to supplier, if it goes again I'm getting something else.


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## morandi (Jun 20, 2008)

Mine stopped holding air pressure at about the 4-5month mark. Sent it back to Sram for a rebuild, went on three rides and it crapped out on me again. Something ain't right with the design or the quality of seals they're using. I'm back on the Command Post. Simple, effective, reliable.


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## DLd (Feb 15, 2005)

Wow, I guess I'm pretty lucky. I just have to bleed mine, just draw a vacuum on it with the kit really, every two weeks or so because it get's slow, but no problems with air or seals so far. It's a less than 5 minute process now, probably takes less time than wiping down the chain and lubing it. The only remaining gripe I have is the stupid chrome collar. I see they switched it to a black one for 2012, I guess they only wanted to screw the early adopters... I just don't like the aesthetics of the chrome collar in the middle of the black seatpost, it just puts a kink in the lines of the bike. It probably has about 1-2mm of side to side play at the tip of the saddle, about the same as my gravity dropper, quite minimal really, and not noticeable while riding on either post.

I think that more robust hose barb might end up taking care of the air getting into the system and then I might not even need to bleed it so often.


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## Samos (Jul 16, 2009)

Got mine yesterday. Work well don't need to bleed it. Hope I can give it a try this evening.


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## RicB (Apr 4, 2007)

Is the bottom of collar to mid-saddle rail length _exactly_ 195mm, or is that just the accepted measurement now (as in '140mm travel')

Reason I ask is that 197mm would be too long for me - tried it with my current set up and experienced back pain and (unexpectedly) calf pain. 190mm is fine, 195 was _just_ about ok but pushing it

I'm probably best waiting for the 100mm 2012 version (with hopefully better seals!!) but not sure what the release date for this is yet


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

RicB said:


> Is the bottom of collar to mid-saddle rail length _exactly_ 195mm, or is that just the accepted measurement now (as in '140mm travel')
> 
> Reason I ask is that 197mm would be too long for me - tried it with my current set up and experienced back pain and (unexpectedly) calf pain. 190mm is fine, 195 was _just_ about ok but pushing it
> 
> I'm probably best waiting for the 100mm 2012 version (with hopefully better seals!!) but not sure what the release date for this is yet


When I measured seat rail at clamp to top of my seatpost clamp, it was 185mm. This guy did a more accurate job here: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=7390048#poststop


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## Lost Biker (Jun 7, 2009)

Anyone know when the 2012 Reverb will be release? I read from BikeRumor its is July 2011.


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## sonypete (Jun 15, 2008)

RicB said:


> Is the bottom of collar to mid-saddle rail length _exactly_ 195mm, or is that just the accepted measurement now (as in '140mm travel')
> 
> Reason I ask is that 197mm would be too long for me - tried it with my current set up and experienced back pain and (unexpectedly) calf pain. 190mm is fine, 195 was _just_ about ok but pushing it
> 
> I'm probably best waiting for the 100mm 2012 version (with hopefully better seals!!) but not sure what the release date for this is yet


RicB I wanna say the 2012 model isn't truly 100mm it just comes with a movable lock collar to limit how far down the post will drop by via physical restraint. Which won't help you in your situation.


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## DLd (Feb 15, 2005)

sonypete said:


> RicB I wanna say the 2012 model isn't truly 100mm it just comes with a movable lock collar to limit how far down the post will drop by via physical restraint. Which won't help you in your situation.


Actually, the way I read it was it was specifically to address those who didn't have enough post exposed to use the 5" model, such as is typical with riders of smaller stature. Even at 6'1" on my large Pivot 5.7 I only have 1/4" of post showing below the collar. I measured before I ordered to make sure it would fit. The 5" Gravity Dropper post would not have worked for me, as the mechanism extends pretty far below the bottom stop.

Solely limiting the amount of downward travel while having the same amount of post exposed would just be pointless. You can already just not push it down all the way if you want, or you could affix a small locking collar yourself to limit downward travel, such as an extra one from a rear bike light or something.


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## Bicycle019 (Jan 23, 2004)

Well that didn't last too long. Three more rides (six total now) and it's dead again. Pressure is down to 75 tops in the chamber, the top seal (silver collar that everyone hates) loosened up, large amounts of front to back play. Back to QBP for another rebuild. 

Previous work order indicates that the top positive air seal failed, and the lower air seal was torn and new SRAM sourced seals were installed. I managed about 14 hours on the new post before it died. 

What really stinks is that the performance of the post is awesome, and it's really a game changer on long technical downhills. The ability to instantly drop is a significant advantage.


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## durkind (Jul 8, 2005)

*Reverb Length???*

So how long (or short) is the Reverb from its seat collar to saddle clamp. Meaning the combination of the 125 mm travel + the height of the silver collar. My

Also when will the new 2012s be available with the Enduro seat collar.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Does anyone have rebuild instructions for this thing? Just want to take mine apart and lube everywhere. I wonder if it would be worth the effort to let the air out, core the valve, put in a few drops of 2wt into the air chamber, and charge it back up to 250? Seems w/ all these seals failing, there might not be enough grease where it counts. AND, with the way Fox and RS forks have been shipping w/ insufficient oil, I wouldn't mind going thru mine just to save me some down time...


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## morandi (Jun 20, 2008)

Bicycle019 said:


> Well that didn't last too long. Three more rides (six total now) and it's dead again. Pressure is down to 75 tops in the chamber, the top seal (silver collar that everyone hates) loosened up, large amounts of front to back play. Back to QBP for another rebuild.
> 
> Previous work order indicates that the top positive air seal failed, and the lower air seal was torn and new SRAM sourced seals were installed. I managed about 14 hours on the new post before it died.
> 
> What really stinks is that the performance of the post is awesome, and it's really a game changer on long technical downhills. The ability to instantly drop is a significant advantage.


I'm in the same boat, same problem. Same repeat failure. 
I agree the post is awesome when its working, I just want them to fix this air seal problem. Back to Sram it goes.


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## sonypete (Jun 15, 2008)

DLd said:


> Actually, the way I read it was it was specifically to address those who didn't have enough post exposed to use the 5" model, such as is typical with riders of smaller stature. Even at 6'1" on my large Pivot 5.7 I only have 1/4" of post showing below the collar. I measured before I ordered to make sure it would fit. The 5" Gravity Dropper post would not have worked for me, as the mechanism extends pretty far below the bottom stop.
> 
> Solely limiting the amount of downward travel while having the same amount of post exposed would just be pointless. You can already just not push it down all the way if you want, or you could affix a small locking collar yourself to limit downward travel, such as an extra one from a rear bike light or something.


DLd, hey I didn't say it seem the best way to go about it. But if you look the 2012 will include a movable clamp to limit how far it goes down. Whether or not this is to limit to 100mm or if they have a entirely different 100mm unit for people with that requirement is RockShox decision, not mine


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

SRAM rebuild youtube video:


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

mountaindavis said:


> SRAM rebuild youtube video:


MA MAN! Thank you! :thumbsup:

Edit: has anyone opened up the air chamber? This is where I need to insert a spacer to reduce the travel to 4".


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## Unbrokenchain (Mar 14, 2011)

sonypete said:


> DLd, hey I didn't say it seem the best way to go about it. But if you look the 2012 will include a movable clamp to limit how far it goes down. Whether or not this is to limit to 100mm or if they have a entirely different 100mm unit for people with that requirement is RockShox decision, not mine


2012 will have Enduro Clamp and be offered in 100 mm of travel. But when it will be offered is anybodys guess.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

*Goodridge barb and hose*

So cats and curiosity... I looked for a Goodridge replacement barb for the weak OE one at the base of the saddle clamp. I found a post that someone slapped on Chainreaction Cycles where they pieced together another solution to the weak barb situation. I'm thinking you might also want to consider the hose being replaced also since the Goodridge hose is a lot more supple and stronger than the OE Reverb hose.


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## chiprock (Jul 9, 2011)

test


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## Skyum (Apr 25, 2011)

Pau11y said:


> So cats and curiosity... I looked for a Goodridge replacement barb for the weak OE one at the base of the saddle clamp. I found that someone slapped on Chainreaction Cycles where they pieced together another solution to the weak barb situation. I'm thinking you might also want to consider the hose being replaced also since the Goodridge hose is a lot more supple and stronger than the OE Reverb hose.


This isn't necessary if you get the new barb that RS have made. It's actually very similar to the goodridge concept, with an inner barb and a thicker shield on top of that. 
I broke the original on mine and bought the new version and its way better.

I also mounted my remote facing forward on the left side as mentioned in an earlier post and that works really great


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

chiprock said:


> test


Going to. But need to pick up some hose and at least one hose end. I need to figure out how to attach the other end w/o fraying the piss out of the Goodridge hose...grind down one of the hose ends? Anyway, I'll need to work this out a bit yet..


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## inkpad (Sep 27, 2005)

Pau11y said:


> So cats and curiosity... I looked for a Goodridge replacement barb for the weak OE one at the base of the saddle clamp. I found a post that someone slapped on Chainreaction Cycles where they pieced together another solution to the weak barb situation. I'm thinking you might also want to consider the hose being replaced also since the Goodridge hose is a lot more supple and stronger than the OE Reverb hose.


I am going to give this a shot, as RS have no replacement parts, new or old anywhere that I can find, snapped my barb 3 weeks ago, & after running dropper posts for over 6 years, running a set post is a PITA :madman:

You thing the M6 part is the correct size? Looks like it? Going to get the shield as well.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

inkpad said:


> I am going to give this a shot, as RS have no replacement parts, new or old anywhere that I can find, snapped my barb 3 weeks ago, & after running dropper posts for over 6 years, running a set post is a PITA :madman:
> 
> You thing the M6 part is the correct size? Looks like it? Going to get the shield as well.


I've set them side by side, and meshed the threads together to check the pitch. It's a match. 
The only thing you'll have to worry about is the remote end if you're using Goodridge hose. The braiding likes to unwrap if you don't have a collar on the end. But if you put a collar on the end, there's a bit of space taken up by the collar that will introduce a weak point at the remote barb. I think if you either drill out the collar to let the barb fit inside the collar, or grind down the collar so the space isn't so large, it'll be good. Also, when I put the remote barb into the (stock OE) hose, I first put a lighter on the barb so it can melt its way into the hose. You might need to do this when putting the remote barb into the Goodridge hose too. 
Goodridge has stainless and alloy fittings. So, I'm thinking if stainless at the post, and alloy at the remote (easier grinding or drilling too), this combo might fly...
I found a stretch of hose of the right length. I just need to get the collars...


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## inkpad (Sep 27, 2005)

Pau11y said:


> I've set them side by side, and meshed the threads together to check the pitch. It's a match.
> The only thing you'll have to worry about is the remote end if you're using Goodridge hose. The braiding likes to unwrap if you don't have a collar on the end. But if you put a collar on the end, there's a bit of space taken up by the collar that will introduce a weak point at the remote barb. I think if you either drill out the collar to let the barb fit inside the collar, or grind down the collar so the space isn't so large, it'll be good. Also, when I put the remote barb into the (stock OE) hose, I first put a lighter on the barb so it can melt its way into the hose. You might need to do this when putting the remote barb into the Goodridge hose too.
> Goodridge has stainless and alloy fittings. So, I'm thinking if stainless at the post, and alloy at the remote (easier grinding or drilling too), this combo might fly...
> I found a stretch of hose of the right length. I just need to get the collars...


Thanks for the info. The part that broke (my fault, caught it on my stand & ripped it out) was the barb at the post. So I am only going to replace that at this time. Good call on heating the barb / hose! When the new version comes out for the post from SRAM I will try to get my hands on that, as it looks way more beefy.


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

My Reverb has been fine after about 100+ miles or so of use, however it has made an annoying click sound when seated on it since new, I was just wondering if anyone else have found this happening on theirs and if you've found a solution as I've tried greasing the head and bolts etc, to no avail?...


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## Skyum (Apr 25, 2011)

inkpad said:


> Thanks for the info. The part that broke (my fault, caught it on my stand & ripped it out) was the barb at the post. So I am only going to replace that at this time. Good call on heating the barb / hose! When the new version comes out for the post from SRAM I will try to get my hands on that, as it looks way more beefy.


I bought the new RS barb so it is out and available. At least in the UK.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Skyum said:


> This isn't necessary if you get the new barb that RS have made. It's actually very similar to the goodridge concept, with an inner barb and a thicker shield on top of that.


HAHA! Looking at the inner/upper part, that M6 is a dead ringer for the Goodridge one! So, I'd imagine this barb is intended for the normal 4mm fiber reinforced brake hose? I think I'll still try to make a Goodridge hose go. If you've ever played w/ the Goodridge hose, you should know what I mean about just how flexible and supple it is.


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## Skyum (Apr 25, 2011)

Pau11y said:


> HAHA! Looking at the inner/upper part, that M6 is a dead ringer for the Goodridge one! So, I'd imagine this barb is intended for the normal 4mm fiber reinforced brake hose? I think I'll still try to make a Goodridge hose go. If you've ever played w/ the Goodridge hose, you should know what I mean about just how flexible and supple it is.


I have Goodridge hose on my brakes and even have some left over tubes. I just think changing the hose and both barbs on the reverb is a bit overkill 

But if you can't get hold of the reverb barb or just think its fun then I totally understand


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

I am in the same boat--no troubles, but when I lift my bike by the seat (or initially sit down) I get a little creak. I just figured it is coming from the seat rail clamp not being tight enough (or possibly by the seat)--just not annoying enough to dig into for me.


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

mountaindavis said:


> I am in the same boat--no troubles, but when I lift my bike by the seat (or initially sit down) I get a little creak. I just figured it is coming from the seat rail clamp not being tight enough (or possibly by the seat)--just not annoying enough to dig into for me.


Yeah I think I'm just going to have to chill out over it instead of getting wound up by a creak!


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Just J said:


> Yeah I think I'm just going to have to chill out over it instead of getting wound up by a creak!


Hey, have you two tried anti-seize compound? Don't get that Finish Line w/ the 1000% markup. Go to the automotive parts store and get a life-time supply of it for $12.

Put down a thin coating on the top and bottom of the saddle clamp, mount the saddle, and wipe up the excess (or it'll stain the hell out of everything it touches).


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

Pau11y said:


> Hey, have you two tried anti-seize compound? Don't get that Finish Line w/ the 1000% markup. Go to the automotive parts store and get a life-time supply of it for $12.
> 
> Put down a thin coating on the top and bottom of the saddle clamp, mount the saddle, and wipe up the excess (or it'll stain the hell out of everything it touches).


Good idea, thanks! I've got some anti-seize compound that I use on the EBB on my other bike so might give it a go tonight...


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

FWIW, my reverb has been great... I have a few months of riding 2-3 times a week on it, and I'm about 200 lbs w/o gear. Couldn't imagine going back to a regular post...


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## inkpad (Sep 27, 2005)

davec113 said:


> FWIW, my reverb has been great... I have a few months of riding 2-3 times a week on it, and I'm about 200 lbs w/o gear. Couldn't imagine going back to a regular post...


I hear ya, once you have had a dropper post, being without one really sucks. I started with a Gravity Dropper in 05 & have had a seat dropper post ever since. My Reverb worked great until I hung my bike on my Park stand temporarily to sweep, then pulled it off not realizing the cable was caught, which is what broke the barb :madman:

New & improved parts on the way though!


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## mykel (Jul 31, 2006)

Well my early production model is still going strong as well.
The only thing I notice is that I have to do a single hose bleed on the remote every month or so. It gets to the point where the activation and the return speed get slow. Do a bleed and everything is back normal. Takes more time to get the stuff out than to do the operation.

michael


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Another thought:
The Goodridge M6 x 1" barb that I matched the Reverb's barb to...I've used on an Elixir brake caliper. SO, I believe the rear Elixir hose assembly will work for fit and length. I'll check my stash of hoses and see if I have one. Anyway, the Elixir hose has that pre-made crimp on the barb...super stout looking! Will update this post later...

Edit: 
Dammit! Found one for the front brake so not long enough. But gave me a chance to shoot a pic. The Elixir barb may need to be Dremel'd down...and there's an o-ring that roughly the same diameter as the Reverb's flange. So, I believe it'll fit. I'll try to fit it this wknd.


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## ThrottleAbuse (Jul 2, 2010)

Just about to order a Reverb. I am riding a 2010 Fuel EX9. I have about 280mm of post showing from the top of the frame to the seat rails. It looks like a 380mm length should work. I am cutting it close the however. If I switched saddles or pedals/shoes I may be too short? I just bought new shoes sidi Dragons (So stoked) and may switch to speedplay frogs instead of SPD. And well I need a better saddle as my the Bontrager one that came with my bike isnt all that great. Technically with no shoe/pedal change I could have a saddle with zero distance between the rails and seat height and still be ok. I guess the real question is how much weight difference is there between a 380mm and a 420mm in the 31.6mm post? From the first post in the thread it looks like in the 30.9 post its only a ~43 gram difference. Hmmmm. 45 grams isn't going to brake the bank. Should I be safe instead of sorry? I cant imagine I would need another ~30mm of seat height for any reason, but that is why I am asking here in case there is something I am missing. 

And the other more important question is which style mount should I get. My bike has SRAM X.9 Triggers and Elixer R brakes. I was thinking I would get the standard mount in case I switched bikes or components so that I wouldn't have to buy another mount. Then looking at the pictures it looks like the MMX mount could also double as a standalone mount? Can I use it as a standalone if I switched to Shimano or something? Thanks and sorry for rambling on.


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

Pau11y said:


> Hey, have you two tried anti-seize compound? Don't get that Finish Line w/ the 1000% markup. Go to the automotive parts store and get a life-time supply of it for $12.
> 
> Put down a thin coating on the top and bottom of the saddle clamp, mount the saddle, and wipe up the excess (or it'll stain the hell out of everything it touches).


I put the anti-seize on last night, gave it a 19 mile shake down today and it seems to have stopped the creaking!  Thanks Pau11y!


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

Just J said:


> My Reverb has been fine after about 100+ miles or so of use, however it has made an annoying click sound when seated on it since new, I was just wondering if anyone else have found this happening on theirs and if you've found a solution as I've tried greasing the head and bolts etc, to no avail?...


Your DU may be starting to get play; Not enough to feel it, but enough to click; You'll swear it's coming from the seatpost. Put a drop of tri-flow on each side of the rear shock mounting hardware and see if the click goes away...


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## pabloquintana (Mar 17, 2010)

Hi guys, I'm looking for a Reverb after failing with a KS i900 dead-on-(almost)-arrival. The KS started with a vertical play that now needs to go back for a re-build.

Here comes the question: can the air seal problem of the Reverb be fixed by user-servicing the seals as explained in the Rock Shox video? If that is a yes I would buy one, if its totally Rock Shox service dependant, I am not sure.

What do you think?

P


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Reverb Fail.

Got one of the ones from Department of Goods, and finally had a few minutes to try to install it before a ride tomorrow. No dice.

Post is stuck up and will not budge even with my 215 pounds sitting on it. Tried the remote bleed trick suggested in the first post, but still no movement at all.

Might need a full bleed, I'll have to re-read this thread in the next few days when I get a chance. It will be the weekend before I have time to mess with it again anyway.

Really bummed, was looking forward to trying this out on tomorrow's ride. Hopefully I can get it going and it's not a permanent DOA situation.


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## niner491 (Jul 15, 2011)

*post*

does anyone know how to get the post. I was told they were os.


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

MarkHL said:


> Your DU may be starting to get play; Not enough to feel it, but enough to click; You'll swear it's coming from the seatpost. Put a drop of tri-flow on each side of the rear shock mounting hardware and see if the click goes away...


Thanks  The clicking has gone away but if another one starts, I'll give that a go.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Just J said:


> I put the anti-seize on last night, gave it a 19 mile shake down today and it seems to have stopped the creaking!  Thanks Pau11y!


:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> Reverb Fail.
> 
> Got one of the ones from Department of Goods, and finally had a few minutes to try to install it before a ride tomorrow. No dice.
> 
> ...


Do a full bleed. Draw a vacuum on the front and back at the same time for several times, then shut down/button up the front (remote end). Draw a vac on the back (post side) several more times and pump the remote lever (make sure your remote speed dial is cranked to the slowest...this increases the the amount of fluid your system holds). 
This is how I got my 2nd one to go (bought used from a guy who couldn't get it to go on his bike for $200...zero miles! ).


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

my barb at my post just broke and I called SRAM. They have redesigned this barb to the beefier ferrule design and are getting parts for those in. Which means they don't have them now and I am out of a post for a couple weeks. At least they redesigned it. The new hose kits will have the new ferrule design, once they start shipping.


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## og1 (Mar 3, 2008)

mountaindavis said:


> my barb at my post just broke and I called SRAM. They have redesigned this barb to the beefier ferrule design and are getting parts for those in. Which means they don't have them now and I am out of a post for a couple weeks. At least they redesigned it. The new hose kits will have the new ferrule design, once they start shipping.


these "redesigned" ones have been "going to ship in a couple weeks" for about 2 months just so you know. not only that, they have nothing to offer you but to wait it out. Thankfully I had an awesome ebay seller that just refunded my whole purchase price and I moved on from this post. rode mine 3 times, and it failed 3 times. once the barb, once the head spun on the tube, and once it developed horrible play. thats a 100% failure rate in my experience.


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## derrick cheo (Jul 20, 2011)

hi, guys... im a FR ride from singapore,.... need some help from you, how you can help??
My ROCK SHOX REVERB Remote had broken , fews weeks back, when i turnover my bike and wash, my friend accidentially stepped on my handle bar and broke it .... i been finding the remote everynow and then, but no luck,and currently in singapore that's still no news when the remote will arrive here,,, can u guys give me an idea where can i find the replace parts for the remote!!!....
thank you in advances 
really miss my bike very much!!!


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

derrick cheo said:


> ...My ROCK SHOX REVERB Remote had broken , fews weeks back, when i turnover my bike and wash, my friend accidentially stepped on my handle bar and broke it ....


This is prob all you need: http://www.ebikestop.com/rockshox_reverb_right_button_assembly-ST6525.php

Edit: oh JEEBUS! everyone's out!


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## derrick cheo (Jul 20, 2011)

thank you very much for your help... really appreciated


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Pau11y said:


> Do a full bleed. Draw a vacuum on the front and back at the same time for several times, then shut down/button up the front (remote end). Draw a vac on the back (post side) several more times and pump the remote lever (make sure your remote speed dial is cranked to the slowest...this increases the the amount of fluid your system holds).
> This is how I got my 2nd one to go (bought used from a guy who couldn't get it to go on his bike for $200...zero miles! ).


Okay, this worked! Seems to be working fine as of this afternoon, and first ride will be tomorrow. :thumbsup:
I actually did it the way the Rock Shox video shows ( finishing at the remote) versus what you said. Thought it was the same as you described, I couldn't recall at the time.

I will be honest, working both plungers alone is a PITA. Having a second person around would make that WAY easier, just FYI to anyone who might need to do it.

One thing that worries me is I tightened my seat clamp to 60 in/lbs, and the post wouldn't budge or would get stuck. So I had to REALLY loosen it to get it to go up and down smoothly without catching. Might not be an issue, as I used friction paste in the seat tube per instructions. But just worried it won't hold with me 220 lbs geared and will slip on the ride....anyone else have to run their clamp more loose than normal?


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## odin (Jun 10, 2010)

This may have been covered in this thread but,I wanted to know if I buy a new post on ebay will RockShox warranty cover it?
Thanks.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Seems like there's plenty of room in the air chamber to slip in a collar to reduce the travel down to 4"


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## squibbtp (Jul 3, 2009)

odin said:


> This may have been covered in this thread but,I wanted to know if I buy a new post on ebay will RockShox warranty cover it?
> Thanks.


Mine is getting work done, got mine on ebay...just have to find someone that is willing to send it back for you, a local shop that deals with rock shox...

It has been a month since I have seen mine though....Slow process getting it back....


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## Keisersoze (Apr 17, 2011)

Just wanted to say that my reverb broke after about 5 weeks and is rendered unfixable for the rest of the season. Thanks Rock Shox.

The nipple (the button) area broke in such a way that the broken part cannot be taken out and replaced and the entire control portion cannot be replaced because they are out of stock for the rest of the season.

It must have either broken when I was placing the bike in or out of the car or through simple use. Either way its fragile and apparently not covered by warranty.

Now riding without a dropper post really sucks as well as spending $300 for something that I've only been able to use for 5 weeks.


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## pabloquintana (Mar 17, 2010)

Keisersoze said:


> Now riding without a dropper post really sucks as well as spending $300 for something that I've only been able to use for 5 weeks.


Man, I've just made my mind. Will not buy another post until technology gets reliable. I have my KS at the shop now being fixed, but will not spend a cent more on these things. :nono:

Sorry about your case.

P


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Was about to pull the trigger on the Reverb, but too many posts suggest the gadget is just not reliable. 

Has Rock Shox come out with a upgraded version or a "2nd generation" post to address these issues? If not I'm sticking with the GD - had one for years with zero reliability issues. A bit clunky but totally bombproof. Like they say.... "What's the enemy of good? ...Better."


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## Dango Dog (Apr 26, 2005)

If I missed this information someplace else in here, I apologize. I am interested in getting a Reverb but concerned that even the 380 might be to long for me. I am currently riding a thompson that I cut down to 13.5" (interrupted seat tube on my bike) from the seat rails to the end of the post. For most trail riding I ride with it insterted 5.5" into the bike which gives me 8" above the seatpost collar. On the 380 post, what is the measurement from the collar fitting to the base of the post? I believe that I read the distance from the collar fitting to the seat clamp is 7.5" at full extension. Thanks.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Well mine is so acting up after only about 3 rides. When I first get on it and try to activate it, it seems stuck and will only go down after a few presses of the button.

Then coming back up, it continually gets stuck and really slows down that last 1/4" or so. It will eventually got up, but I have keep the button pushed in an extended period of time.

I'm guessing it needs another bleed maybe? This is the old original hose by the way, the super flimsy one...


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Ok, follow up to my above post, got in another (and most likely last ride with it) today after the post above.
4 rides and mine is down for the count.

I was just going along and fwoop, all the way down it went on it's own. At first it'd come back up, but any weight at all would cause it to fall again. So had to finish the ride with the saddle slammed, but luckily didn't have much to go.

Pulled it off the bike when I got home and had a look. The silver collar that connects the upper and lower parts was loose, so I used a set of channel locks (only think I had big enough) to give it a snug. Then checked the psi with my shock pump. It only read 75 psi. I started pumping back up to 250 but evertime I'd hit 150 it'd stall. I took a closer look, and sure enough, the minute the gauge hit 150 and I quit pumping, the psi started falling.

Really bummed about this, this was my first good experience with a dropper post and was hoping it'd last. Guess I will have to call Backcountry tomorrow for a return...


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## marshalolson (Jun 27, 2007)

i have a good 15 rides on mine after it was updated to 2012 internals. no further issues... hopefully it stays that way.


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## Blaster1200 (Feb 20, 2004)

I hate to say this, but this sounds like a good case for a class-action lawsuit.


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## schulzeee (Mar 11, 2011)

sessionrider said:


> I am very interested in getting a reverb to replace the joplin 4 post I am currently running. The newer joplin has been working well so far but the reverb has so many significant performance advantages that I am looking to make the switch soon. The only thing holding me back at this point is the remote switch. Seems that only right hand remotes are shipping and that a left mount may end up being an aftermarket add on anyway? Also, people are running their RH switches upside down on the left side so the lever doesn't stick up so much. I want to run the remote on the left and it seems that this might be the way to go. Are people running them this way happy with the setup?


I too wanted the remote on the left, so I tried it upside down (on the left) I did not like it for one reason. Most of the time I'm dropping the post when the downhill has started and I want to use the front brake. Very difficult to use both the dropper and the brake at the same time. So for months and a few crashes I've had it on the right with no problems.

Giant Reign 2010


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## schulzeee (Mar 11, 2011)

attaboy said:


> About 2 weeks ago I finally received my new Reverb. I give props to SRAM for giving me a full replacement (resetting: mine lost all fluid at the post versus having problem with remote and hydraulics of remote system)-- looks to be with the new hose. What I don't like is that it took almost a month. I'm hearing a creaking noise coming from the saddle as I did on my previous Reverb. I thought on 1st that maybe I didn't tighten the saddle clamp bolts enough. I know I have this time and I'm wondering if that sound is the sound of the reverb innards grinding toward another failure. Anyone else hear creaking on their Reverb, especially under high torque going uphill???


Yep my creaks and same with my riding partner. There is a post in this thread about using anti seize compound to remedy. I will be trying this.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Blaster1200 said:


> I hate to say this, but this sounds like a good case for a class-action lawsuit.


...unless they do a voluntary recall and fix the old ones. If they do this, I will never badmouth RS/Sram again (until they decide to use the public to beta test again)


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

schulzeee said:


> Yep my creaks and same with my riding partner. There is a post in this thread about using anti seize compound to remedy. I will be trying this.


I had a creak I was sure was coming from the saddle clamp interface. It happened whenever pedaling uphill while seated. I could not get it to shut up. I put some more carbon paste on the seat post, and actually put some between my frame and my seatpost clamp. Creak is gone now.


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

My Reverb is toast after about 6 rides. I called SRAM and they said to take it to a dealer for warranty. I'm not playing that game. SRAM hasn't told me to do this in the past.

Anyone have a contact number to for consumers?


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

joltz said:


> My Reverb is toast after about 6 rides. I called SRAM and they said to take it to a dealer for warranty. I'm not playing that game. SRAM hasn't told me to do this in the past.
> 
> Anyone have a contact number to for consumers?


You know you should just talk to me about that...


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

joltz said:


> My Reverb is toast after about 6 rides. I called SRAM and they said to take it to a dealer for warranty. I'm not playing that game. SRAM hasn't told me to do this in the past.
> 
> Anyone have a contact number to for consumers?


SRAM won't deal directly with consumers, anything has to go through a shop. Or at least that's my experience with 6 Lyriks 4 years ago, and 1 Lyrik last spring.

In regards to the issues on mine and it's recent failure, I called SRAM today to see if there was anything I might be able to do. Before I even told the rep what was going on, he said "Let me save you the trouble. Send it in and we'll rebuild it with new internals. There were 3 distinct and separate issues the early posts where having, and the rebuild will address and fix all three." One was the hose/barb issue, one was seal something or other, and the third was something to do with a torque value internally that was messing up the seals. I think that's the issues, but don't quote me on that.

So anyway mine's going back to SRAM tomorrow via my shop. I was told 2-3 day turnaround max.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

2-3 days? LOL. 

My dog knocked my bike over, busting a small plastic bushing in the remote. 
Several mail order sites show the remote small parts kit for $40, but it's back-ordered.
Called SRAM (# on their website) and was told the small parts kits were sold out and would not be available for another 2 weeks. They suggested taking it to the LBS, and this would not be covered under warranty.

A few weeks ago my avid brakes had a warranty issue, and I took it to the LBS... 3 week turn-around and I had to pay for shipping, plus the warranty brake had to be re-bled once I got home.

Total BS to ave to send their products in everytime there's a minor issue that could easily be fixed at home.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> "Let me save you the trouble. Send it in and we'll rebuild it with new internals. There were 3 distinct and separate issues the early posts where having, and the rebuild will address and fix all three."


Since I have two, I think I'll rotate sending them in, before they break for the 2012 update


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

The small parts thing does suck, I agree. They should be able to send out small parts to consumers, it's pretty lame to have to go through a shop for such things. I broke the barrel adjust on a x9 shifter a few years ago, and they wouldn't send it to me. Utterly stupid, had to go to a shop.

The bigger warranty issues I can somewhat understand, since the shop can "validate" there's a problem and SRAM knows what's coming actually has an issue. Instead of any Joe Blow sending something in that really might not have an issue.

And I've heard horror stories about Fox and Marz taking forever to get stuff turned around when sent in, etc. At least I've always heard SRAM does take care of things pretty quickly normally. I've heard very little in the way of SRAM taking a long time. Your example might be the worst.

In retrospect, Fox kept my buddies for for 7 months under warranty. And no I am not joking. 7. Freaking. Months.


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

CharacterZero said:


> You know you should just talk to me about that...


I know. What was I thinking?


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## schulzeee (Mar 11, 2011)

Thanks BaeckerX1 for putting all the reverb stuff in its own thread. 

Back in March when I was doing the research for an adjustable post I never found the reverb thread and had I found it I probably would not have bought a reverb. But I did and for the past 4 months was very happy with what it could do and how it performed. It changed my riding style by making the downhill parts more fun, no more stopping to change the post height. But a few days ago it failed suddenly and without apparent cause. Fortunately it was near the end of a 1600' descent (after a 1600' climb), but my confidence in the product sank. Had it failed on the climb I would have had to turn around and go home (or walk up). The post was sent back to my LBS and I wait for the results of a warranty claim. Now as one poster said he carries a spare fixed post with him in case of a reverb failure! I'm debating whether to go with my second choice (GD Turbo) and just forget about the reverb or carry a spare post on every ride. $$$.$$ vs fustration. My base expectation was a rockshox post would be as reliable as a rockshox suspension fork. Not so. :madman:


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## schulzeee (Mar 11, 2011)

Creative in my despair of not having my reverb I attached a cable tie to my seat rail with markings from 0 to 4" for quicker seat adjustments. At least I don't have get off the bike to adjust. Stopping is advisable though. Total weight: about 10 grams.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

schulzeee said:


> Creative in my despair of not having my reverb I attached a cable tie to my seat rail with markings from 0 to 4" for quicker seat adjustments. At least I don't have get off the bike to adjust. Stopping is advisable though. Total weight: about 10 grams.


You need a new nick: LoTeK!

:thumbsup:


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

schulzeee said:


> Thanks BaeckerX1 for putting all the reverb stuff in its own thread.
> 
> Back in March when I was doing the research for an adjustable post I never found the reverb thread and had I found it I probably would not have bought a reverb. But I did and for the past 4 months was very happy with what it could do and how it performed. It changed my riding style by making the downhill parts more fun, no more stopping to change the post height. But a few days ago it failed suddenly and without apparent cause. Fortunately it was near the end of a 1600' descent (after a 1600' climb), but my confidence in the product sank. Had it failed on the climb I would have had to turn around and go home (or walk up). The post was sent back to my LBS and I wait for the results of a warranty claim. Now as one poster said he carries a spare fixed post with him in case of a reverb failure! I'm debating whether to go with my second choice (GD Turbo) and just forget about the reverb or carry a spare post on every ride. $$$.$$ vs fustration. My base expectation was a rockshox post would be as reliable as a rockshox suspension fork. Not so. :madman:


Schulzeee I had a similar experience. My post dropped going up Georgia Pass from Kenosha to Breck and wouldn't not stay up or hold air. I could hear the air hissing out and watch the PSI go down on my pump. I was so mad as the shuttles had already gone back to town and I would have to complete the ride with a short post. After screwing with it for 30 mins I finally got it to lock in the up position...still not sure how. Either way I left it that way and finished the ride. I took it to my LBS for warranty and put my Thomson back on. After it failed on that big ride I have absolutely no faith in ROCK SHOX REVERB DROPPER POSTS! :nono:


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

*Goodridge hose w/ new Reverb barbs*

Remote barb:
The new remote barb has a lip to capture the braiding of the Goodridge hose so the thing doesn't unravel into a hairball. Heatshrink applied to support the hose/barb interface.
Key trick here is to clean the hose after the cut w/ a Dremel. Don't trip the Goodridge's rubber covering till the braiding is tucked neatly into the barb's lip. I used the cutters to pinch the braiding while screwing on the barb.

Post barb:
This setup is exactly like the Goodridge collar and barb...very secure. The rubber hose coating is stripped back to allow the collar to be slipped on.

Why? The hose is amazingly flexible, strong, and won't kink.


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## s2ramz (Jun 27, 2011)

yes or no on the reverb?


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## wizard604 (Jul 10, 2011)

Well I bit the bullet & got the reverb despite some of the negative comments in this thread. I figure if it goes, I can always get it fixed on warranty. I'm sure RS has worked out some of the kinks by now.

To Bleed or Not to Bleed:
Anyways I was wondering whether or not I should bother bleeding it. It appears to be working 100% right out of the box. Maybe RS has cleaned up their factory bleed procedure. The date stamp on the box is 2011 week 10 and was purchased from Universal Cycle just a couple of days ago.

I should also mention that my reverb comes with the newer heavier hydraulic hose. The hose is quiite stiff & definitely needs to be re-trained to route it properly. The return speed is really fast even w/out having to dial up the speed adjustment. When you crank up the speed its super fast. So it does indeed sounds like RS is starting to get it dialed in right from the factory. It does not have the new reinforced barb shield (pictured above).

So my advice to anyone buying, is to check the production date to make sure you're not getting older (problem) stock. Anyone with the same or newer production date reverb care to comment?


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## plussa (Jul 12, 2005)

s2ramz said:


> yes or no on the reverb?


Yes. :thumbsup:

I have had mine since june, no problems a all...


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## Xizor1 (Aug 27, 2010)

wizard604 said:


> So my advice to anyone buying, is to check the production date to make sure you're not getting older (problem) stock. Anyone with the same or newer production date reverb care to comment?


I'm not sure which production batch my Reverb is (bought it about 2 months ago) because I don't have the box anymore. Can the production date be found somewhere on the post itself?

Otherwise my Reverb has worked perfectly, I've ridden with it about 50 hours and no problems so far. (Allthough I had to bleed it out of the box)


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## wizard604 (Jul 10, 2011)

*Hang bike by seatpost ?*

I have a bike rack that use a frame adapter to hang the bike supported at the seat & stem. Anyone know if its ok to store your bike this way when you have the reverb post?

The hose & fitting are not impacted. I'm just worried whether or not the reverb post is designed to support the weight of the bike this way.


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

It is ok to clamp the post on the lower (larger diameter) section. On my clamp there is enough room for the hose so it's not affected by clamping.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

can you tell me a little more about using the goodridge hose? most of the issues seem to have been hose related...did you do this hop up as a response to problems you had had? how is it holding up for you?


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

dRjOn said:


> can you tell me a little more about using the goodridge hose? most of the issues seem to have been hose related...did you do this hop up as a response to problems you had had? how is it holding up for you?


Haven't been out on a ride yet (hopefully tonight after work), but it's not bleeding out or loosing speed. I believe this implies it's air tight.
The Goodridge hose was used because of how flexible it is. Also, it's pretty much indestructible in its application...no possibility of kinking. Yeah, a bit overkill...like a shotgun to kill a fly but I had spare lengths. It's a bit tricky to deal w/ the braiding, and does require a Dremel to have a clean end to work with.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

thanks! so the remote end barb is the new reba one (with the relief to keep the hose braiding covered) and the post end is the new reverb barb and cover and you are using goodrige hose...but not goodridge barbs, right?


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

dRjOn said:


> thanks! so the remote end barb is the new reba one (with the relief to keep the hose braiding covered) and the post end is the new reverb barb and cover and you are using goodrige hose...but not goodridge barbs, right?


"Relief"!!! Yes, that was the word I wanted! 

They are the new Reverb barbs and not Goodridge ones. You'll need to peel the back the seatpost end to get the collar on. But for the remote end...if you wait till you get the barb screwed on before you trim the rubber coating, it'll help keep the braiding together. Also, when you clean the cut w/ the Dremel, bring the hose to the cut-off wheel very lightly so as to not flare the braiding...always Dremel w/ the rubber cover on and strip once you've cleaned the cut.
With the old barb, I used to hold a ciggy lighter to the end of the barb to heat so it can melt its way into the hose. DON'T DO THAT W/ THESE NEW BARBS. The screw on. Lastly, the heatshrink is just something I added and not at all necessary. It just makes things look really clean.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

thanks again! this may well have just solved a problem for me!...cheers.


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## Prunetucky (Apr 17, 2005)

I've been doin it for a while, no probs. I do turn the seat post about 180 so that the cable isn't in the JAWS of my stand. EC


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## JimEG (Aug 19, 2009)

Just logged on to post a positive review of Reverb. Lots of negative reviews......maybe I got lucky with mine. I've had mine since April. It had to be bled out of the box, and has been bled again just recently. Other than the bleeding(no worse than my Formula One brakes) the Reverb has delivered, period. I ride in nasty NW conditions and it has continued to perform.


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

I have had mine for a year, still riding strong. I did break a barb--more my fault, I suppose, I love it. Has a little play. Big test this coming week as I go to Durango and Crested Butte for 10 days--I am bringing a back up post in my tool box just in case, but so far I haven't had a reason to do this...


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

JimEG said:


> Just logged on to post a positive review of Reverb. Lots of negative reviews......maybe I got lucky with mine. I've had mine since April. It had to be bled out of the box, and has been bled again just recently. Other than the bleeding(no worse than my Formula One brakes) the Reverb has delivered, period. I ride in nasty NW conditions and it has continued to perform.


Same here. Did a very meticulous cutting and bleeding when I got it mid-April. Working beautifully. I do want to pick up the new barb bits once readily available, and like the idea of running a stouter hose setup as well at the same time. Just to give a bit more peace of mind.

Have also been very anal retentive about making sure I'm not clamping it anywhere near the upper post/barb when in the stand with it. And made sure my remote button sits decently - if I stick the bike upside down to work on something trailside, the button still has near an inch of clearance.

Having said that, I fully expect it to **** the bed while riding today. :thumbsup:

It gets used a lot. At least I have my old GD post still around just in case - not as nice, but still better than a static post.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Mine is at the bike shop back from SRAM after warranty service. I'm told they completely rebuilt it. It's going to cost me $6 for shipping and took about 2 weeks. Not bad in all. I'm going to pick it up tonight. Unfortunately it's going on a bike that doesn't get ridden as much anymore, so it'll be hard to comment on how it holds up after service. My new bike is using a 100mm Specialized Command Post BlackLite because the Reverb has too much travel to fit on my new bike with a high seat tube.

As for the positive reviews? If you go back and read, you'll see I was an ardent supporter of this post since day 1. Mine worked awesome for most of the season and then tanked on me unexpectedly with no warning. Getting it serviced was pretty painless though, so we'll see how long it lasts this time. I still stand by my statement that when it's working, it's the best post on the market. Nothing compares to the feel and action of the Reverb. If it was user serviceable I wouldn't mind so much. Sending it back to SRAM every time it has an air seal issue might get old. Piece of mind has also been shot a bit. I'd be more comfortable bringing my command post with the locking collet on 30+ mile backcountry rides than getting stuck with the Reverb that won't sit at full extension if it goes. If it had failed on my Monarch Crest trip I would have been screwed.


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## birmy (Jan 14, 2005)

I am hoping someone else has had the problem with the actual button you push to adjust the post. Mine seems to be getting stuck in the depressed position. Can anyone help with a solution?


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## istvisinet (May 20, 2008)

I have the same problem. The shaft of the push rod got a little bent after a wreck and not sticks when pushed all the way in. I just don't push it all the way in and everything still works fine. A bit tricky at first but after a couple of rides no big deal. If your problem is not due to impact then you might be able to convince SRAM to send you a new button but that appears to be difficult because of a lack of parts in stock a SRAM. SRAM has a push button service kit that will run about $50 but is not yet available anywhere. I would stop by your local shop and show them the problem and have them call SRAM and try to get a replacement button sent out. 

Good luck


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## jschwart73 (May 1, 2007)

Well, add me to the list of people with a failed Reverb. Bike has about 450 miles on it, rode it Sunday with no problems (post has been flawless on every ride), left it on the back of my car all day yesterday and when I hit the button to drop the post, it dropped fine. Hit it again, didn't come up. I could pull/push up and down and it's got the "won't hold more than 150psi" issue that others have seen. I wonder if sitting out in the sun raised the pressures in there somewhere to a point where it blew out a seal? *shrug*

Local shop has rebuild kits coming in tomorrow, expecting that should take care of things.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Was swapping out a fork on my bike last night and notice the post slowed down. For sheitz and giggles I pulled the seal (silver) collar off and slapped some Slick Honey under there and buttoned it back up...NIGHT AND DAY difference! The seal grabs that inner tube some kind of angry firm!
Also did a quick 2 min bleed and noticed the rubber accordion boot was pulling my remote button back in a bit when I removed the syringe. So removed the boot from its seat before I buttoned everything up. Now, w/ the greased inner tube and the full fluid capacity of the line/remote, the post would slap the boys hard enough to hurt on fastest extension setting! :eekster:


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## wizard604 (Jul 10, 2011)

Prunetucky said:


> I've been doin it for a while, no probs. I do turn the seat post about 180 so that the cable isn't in the JAWS of my stand. EC


FYI... I just got reply from Sram & they said it's perfectly fine to support the weight of the bike by the the seatpost in this manner.

The key thing is so long as the hose & barb are not constricted in anyway.

I've been clamping my bike to my repair stand by the frame rather than the seatpost since getting the reverb because I didnt want to risk damaging it. I guess its a bit more rugged than I thought.


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## N0Mad (Oct 5, 2008)

mine didn't work out of the box.
production date is 2011 week 11, so it supposed to be w/o all issues.
it doesn't work after several bleedings - the remote button is hard, I can't push it at all (a little bit if remote speed is set slow), as if the hydraulic valve inside the post is stuck and doesn't work at all. WTF???
:madman:
anyone had the same problem?


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## wizard604 (Jul 10, 2011)

N0Mad said:


> mine didn't work out of the box.
> production date is 2011 week 11, so it supposed to be w/o all issues.
> it doesn't work after several bleedings - the remote button is hard, I can't push it at all (a little bit if remote speed is set slow), as if the hydraulic valve inside the post is stuck and doesn't work at all. WTF???
> :madman:
> anyone had the same problem?


Hmm.. that's strange because I just picked another reverb for the wife a couple days ago with the same production date (2011 week11) and it also worked fine right out the box. Didnt have to bleed it or anything, just slap onto the bike.

Sounds like something is defective on yours as the bleeds should have corrected any issues. Bring back to the dealer & get them to give you another one.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

How do you know what year it is or when it was made? Can you tell that from the serial number?


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## wizard604 (Jul 10, 2011)

rscecil007 said:


> How do you know what year it is or when it was made? Can you tell that from the serial number?


Its on the the box on a white sticker. You might be able to tell from serial number as well but I dont have that info


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## troyer2112 (Mar 31, 2008)

I just purchased a Reverb with the 2011 week 11 and it works great out of the box. On my second ride when i was putting it on my car i noticed a slight wiggle in a rotation/ twisty way. When i extended the seat all the way up it was rock solid. Anyone have this problem?
I am amazed at how my bike becomes a different monster all together while the seat is out of the way!!!!! Helps me keep the momentum that is priceless through the turns esp. rooty and successive turns! I LOVE IT!


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## tpc1 (Jun 29, 2010)

I just rode with mine for the first time, All i can say is wow it is great. Now if it lasts it will be great. But my buddy crashed today with his and screwed up the control and no one has the parts. Any idea who might have one in stock? Thanks


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## morandi (Jun 20, 2008)

After sending my first edition reverb twice to Sram, I sent it back a third time and got a new post. Mounted it on the bike, rode it around the block, seemed to work fine. Came back the next day and the post was like a suspension post with two inches of travel. I could compress the post just by pressing or sitting on the saddle. Checked the air pressure, did a full system bleed. Nada...same thing. Just dropped it back at my LBS. Anybody else have this problem?
Thank god I have a Specy Command Post as backup.


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## jschwart73 (May 1, 2007)

Update on mine - The inner head backed off and the internal o-ring slipped by and blew out. No real problem with the quality of parts, but certainly a problem with the build.

I ended up having to guess at the IFP depth, the end result is that with the "Basic Seal Kit" from SRAM and a little guesswork, my Reverb is back in action and better than new.

Anyone know what the official IFP depth is?


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## morandi (Jun 20, 2008)

The Reverb is just the biggest disappointment...........


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## rcjonessnp175 (Aug 2, 2010)

just had my second reverb blow last night. Will no longer hold air, super im putting a specialized command post on my gt as the one on my enduro has been flawless. What POS!


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## giulius (Jan 1, 2010)

highrustler said:


> FYI - I just installed my Reverb. There was so much air in the line I ended up bleeding using a syringe at both ends. Now, the action is fast & smoove. I would recommend this to anyone, it's so easy to do and why not ensure that you are getting full performance.


I had the same experience but it isn't working well yet. It doesn't rise all the length. :cryin::cryin::cryin::cryin:
I'm thinking to increase the air pressure, but how?


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## wizard604 (Jul 10, 2011)

Any word on getting replacement seatpost barbs? Mine broke when I accidentally bent it on the repair stand 

Now it looks like I'm one amongst the many in search of the holy grail (a replacement barb). They really should have included a couple spares in the box. Esp since this seems like an item that is commonly damaged.

Update: Sram has them in stock now


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## SFBMRC (Oct 29, 2006)

Well, mine died today as many others have. I bought it back in April and it has worked fine but today when I went to load my bike in the truck for a ride it was dead. Lets see what SRAM has to say tomorrow morning.


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## an_original_name (Mar 9, 2010)

just received mine today. very happy with it so far but haven't had a chance to use it in anger yet. going for a nice long wet and muddy ride on thursday so will see how it goes then.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Hum...
Need to send 1 of my 2 back. Leaking the remote hydro fluid out of the top of the post...under the seat rail clamps. I thought it was the Goodridge hose as I kept loosing rise speed a few days after a bleed. But, pull the saddle off and there was a pool of 2wt under the lower rail clamp.


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## wizard604 (Jul 10, 2011)

The new seat barb (2012) with metal strain relief collar is now available in Canada (probably US as well). My original barb got accidentally broken on the repair stand & the shop replaced it with the newer barb. The metal collar screws onto the barb & protects the tip so it's not as easy to break. The old plastic strain relief really offer no protection at all.


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## special red (Nov 5, 2006)

been riding my reverb since winter. never broke a barb or remote (despite some bad crashes), bled twice and it works perfectly for me.


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## Hydesg (Jul 4, 2010)

i have a reverb that i bought in nov last year.
it keeps losing speed every 2 weeks and i have to add droplets of oil into the pusher.

is it due to the hose expanding?


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Got mine back from SRAM, just under 2 weeks total turnaround time from sending it off, repairs, and back. It has the new barbs and line, and was working flawlessly on the short ride I had it on today.

It's still slipping in the seat tube though. Luckily I only have it raised about 1/2" or so out, so if it falls a bit it's not hugely detrimental. I did use some type of Ritchey friction paste instead of grease.

I've got the collar tight as it can be, any tighter and the movement of the post is affected. Anyone have a good solution here? More friction paste? Just deal with it? It's on a hardtail BTW.


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## wizard604 (Jul 10, 2011)

Hydesg said:


> i have a reverb that i bought in nov last year.
> it keeps losing speed every 2 weeks and i have to add droplets of oil into the pusher.
> 
> is it due to the hose expanding?


You have the old hose which may be losing fluid. I'd contact Sram & see if you can get a warranty replacement hose kit, which comes with new heavier hose. I believe the warranty is 2yrs


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## kibbs (Jun 8, 2009)

rscecil007 said:


> Got mine back from SRAM, just under 2 weeks total turnaround time from sending it off, repairs, and back. It has the new barbs and line, and was working flawlessly on the short ride I had it on today.
> 
> It's still slipping in the seat tube though. Luckily I only have it raised about 1/2" or so out, so if it falls a bit it's not hugely detrimental. I did use some type of Ritchey friction paste instead of grease.
> 
> I've got the collar tight as it can be, any tighter and the movement of the post is affected. Anyone have a good solution here? More friction paste? Just deal with it? It's on a hardtail BTW.


Try Tacx it is a carbon assy friction paste and works well when putting parts together were you do no want to apply max force to hold. It also gives you lube to insure things do not seize. It does sound like your seat tube is slightly oversized though perhaps you need a shim.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

No, seat tube is good, a Thomson post is fairly snug in there, as is the Reverb.

I'll try to get some Tacx.


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## Hydesg (Jul 4, 2010)

question.

are you guys able to pull up your seat with your hands and without depressing the remote ?
I am not sure if this is a sign that the seatpost is starting to become problematic.
i am able to pull up my seat (in lowered mode) up with my hand without depressing the remote.
It is able to return back to the lowered position given that there is air inside sucking it back down.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Hydesg said:


> question.
> 
> are you guys able to pull up your seat with your hands and without depressing the remote ?
> I am not sure if this is a sign that the seatpost is starting to become problematic.
> ...


Other than mech posts, they all do that.
On my good Reverb, I can pick up my bike's ass-end w/ the lowered saddle and not cause extension. I'd have to actively keep the bike from leaving the ground when I pull on the saddle to cause mine to extend w/o using the remote.


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

Hydesg said:


> question.
> 
> are you guys able to pull up your seat with your hands and without depressing the remote ?
> I am not sure if this is a sign that the seatpost is starting to become problematic.
> ...


In my experience, this IS the beginning of seal failure. You may want to check internal pressure; if it's going bad will likely happen soon.


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## schulzeee (Mar 11, 2011)

Hydesg said:


> question.
> 
> are you guys able to pull up your seat with your hands and without depressing the remote ?
> I am not sure if this is a sign that the seatpost is starting to become problematic.
> ...


The day my reverb failed it was shortly after I lifted up on the lowered seat and it came quite easily and went back down when released. Minutes later it failed.
BTW 3 weeks and counting for return from warranty repair while they wait for parts to replace the entire 'upper assembly'.


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## ratty2k (Oct 29, 2007)

Had my Reverb for a while, but with stolen bikes and insurance claims I haven't ridden it properly. But after just 4 rides its failed. Riding along and it just started to lower on its own. Can push it down without the remote, and it comes up slowly on its own...
Back to the shop this weekend with it and see what they say.


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## ratpick (Mar 24, 2008)

ratty2k said:


> Had my Reverb for a while, but with stolen bikes and insurance claims I haven't ridden it properly. But after just 4 rides its failed. Riding along and it just started to lower on its own. Can push it down without the remote, and it comes up slowly on its own...
> Back to the shop this weekend with it and see what they say.


That sounds like you need to bleed the remote - if you never did that when you first got it, it's even more likely the problem. The procedure is up in this thread somewhere (or on SRAM's service website).

Edit: I might have misread your note.. if it is coming back up slowly without touching the remote, that's possibly something else


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## ratty2k (Oct 29, 2007)

I got it at a good price, but with no bleed kit (it was on display in the shop on a test bike) So, going to ride the HT this weekend and on the way home call into the shop with it. They'll bleed it for me there and then, and if it still wont work.... Well, either a refund or replace as my KSi950 has been flawless...(on the HT)


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## The_Missile (Jan 13, 2005)

*How to Rebuild and refill with fluid*

Mine stopped working too, would not hold air.....finally disassembled.

the INNER collar had backed off creating the air leak - NOT a blown seal.
As I was inspecting (I undid the collar) a bunch of fluid rushed out.

The only thing stopping me now is knowing exactly how much fluid to put back in, and where to fill it ?? Anyboday know - this is not part of the normal bleed or service.


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## beefmagic (Sep 17, 2005)

Picked one up a couple of months ago. Had to bleed it right out of the box to get it working. It's been bled three times since then. Seems like every 2-3 weeks it starts moving real slow or not at all. 

Like others have said, when it works, it works great. Seems like there are too many people having issues for SRAM to not issue a recall on this.


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## jschwart73 (May 1, 2007)

The_Missile said:


> Mine stopped working too, would not hold air.....finally disassembled.
> 
> the INNER collar had backed off creating the air leak - NOT a blown seal.
> As I was inspecting (I undid the collar) a bunch of fluid rushed out.
> ...


That's exactly how mine failed and what you're trying to do is reset the IFP depth and put in the right amount of fluid. I got mine re-set, but I took a guess and I think I was a little off (more on that in a second.)

I pulled the center hollow shaft out, then carefully pulled the IFP disc up to about halfway up the inner chamber. I filled that to the top of the IFP disc with 2.5wt suspension fluid, then put the center hollow shaft back and filled it to the top. Then, I put it all back together. When I inflated the air chamber, it pulled things together a little too quickly, which to me means I got the fluid level wrong.

SRAM would NOT tell my shop what the IFP depth and/or the amount of fluid is supposed to be in there. They will, however, warranty the post. So that's nice.

I'm half tempted to take apart the new one that's on the way for me and measure the IFP depth and/or the fluid level, but then again, do I really want to take a chance of screwing up a brand new post that SRAM swapped out on warranty?

Since this isn't a safety issue, I wouldn't expect them to issue a recall, but I would expect them to honor a majority of warranty claims without any major issues.

I still love the post and mine is working quite well even with the wild a$$ guess at fluid level I took.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

Man, I really want one of these but with all the issues folks are having its just too problematic right now.


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

I have broken a barb on mine, and I have had to bleed it (although less often than I have bled my brakes) and I have ridden mine pretty consistently and hard since November 2010. I just got back from Cortez/Durango/Crested Butte on a 10 day road trip and put the seatpost through pretty extensive abuse. Mine is still going very strong. Mine has not been rebuilt or touched other than the bleeds/hose replacements. I do have a little play and I have been extremely worried about failure on big rides, but so far, so GREAT. Love it. I am probably going to replace the seals soon (Reverb seatpost seal service - YouTube ) as part of ongoing maintenance. I would not hesitate to recommend one of these posts, even given some of the failures, as the one day that rode on a standard post I realized how much I use the Reverb and how it truly adds to my safety and enjoyment in riding.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

I finally decided to try out the Reverb. I found one that has been rebuilt with 2012 parts. I'm thinking I will carry a regular seatpost in my pack on big rides just in case. Wish me luck.....


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

I preordered my Reverb when it first came, and I have been riding it since November 2010. I've put 2,000 miles on the post, and use it all the time in all weather conditions. I still have the original thin hose, though SRAM sent me a replacement kit with the burlier new hose. I've only bled it when I first installed it (didn't work out of the box), and once after shortening the hose. I've had no issues whatsoever. It works like on the first day. So far so good.

When making such a purchase and reading forums, it's important to remember that most people with perfectly functioning posts have no reason to follow a thread like this, or go online to report it's working fine. They just happily use the post. Those with failing posts are the most likely ones to do a search online, find such a thread, and report yet another failure. I'm saying that you can be sure that the failure rate is much lower than what you read online, as the data is skewed towards failing posts. Still, everyone should expect their posts to work perfectly for at least one year!


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## The_Missile (Jan 13, 2005)

jschwart73 said:


> That's exactly how mine failed and what you're trying to do is reset the IFP depth and put in the right amount of fluid. I got mine re-set, but I took a guess and I think I was a little off (more on that in a second.)
> 
> I pulled the center hollow shaft out, then carefully pulled the IFP disc up to about halfway up the inner chamber. I filled that to the top of the IFP disc with 2.5wt suspension fluid, then put the center hollow shaft back and filled it to the top. Then, I put it all back together. When I inflated the air chamber, it pulled things together a little too quickly, which to me means I got the fluid level wrong.
> 
> ...


AWESOME - many thanks. Just to be clear: the IFP is an internal floating (moveable) piston ? so..

1) I need to pull this IFP 'ring' up to half way ish
2) Fill up the cylinder to this level with 2.5 wt
3) insert the hollow tube. FIll the hollow tube only (this is where I am unsure)
4) Insert the air piston/shaft just a little bit so I can engage the threads of the internal collar
5) Re-assemble the rest appropriately.
6) Fill with 250 psi air.

If its as easy as that....I'm well happy.

Did you use lock tite on the internal collar to stop the darn thing un-doing itself ?


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## jschwart73 (May 1, 2007)

The_Missile said:


> AWESOME - many thanks. Just to be clear: the IFP is an internal floating (moveable) piston ? so..
> 
> 1) I need to pull this IFP 'ring' up to half way ish
> 2) Fill up the cylinder to this level with 2.5 wt
> ...


YMMV, but that worked for me. I'm just a dumb dumb in his garage that didn't want to wait for my new one to get here from SRAM. The fluid level isn't not quite right and took some guesswork on my part. You're getting into above average mechanical work, it's not simple. The one thing I do know is that it's critical for the fluid to contain no air and the air to contain no fluid...

I didn't Loctite the inner seal head because I didn't want to make it difficult to take apart if I needed to change the fluid level again, my maintenance plan just includes checking it every once in a while.

Pure speculation on my part, but I suspect it simply wasn't torqued to spec from the factory OR the torque spec is wrong.

I agree with the above post that you're really not going to hear from those that this post works well for and the impression that the Reverb is a poor product is blown way out of proportion. Even with the issues I've had, it's by FAR the best adjustable seatpost I've used and I don't hesitate to recommend them to anyone.


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## Psycho Marco (Nov 7, 2008)

Hey guys, anyone with experience on the Joplin from Crank Brothers?
I was looking into the Reverb but after reading this thread I´m looking elsewhere. 
Does anyone knows if the newest version (the ones in stock in LBS´s right now) have the issues fixed?

Regards


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Rockshox! Make a Reverb w/ a iBeam clamp so I can use a Bel Air ST on your post!


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## The_Missile (Jan 13, 2005)

jschwart73 said:


> YMMV, but that worked for me. I'm just a dumb dumb in his garage that didn't want to wait for my new one to get here from SRAM. The fluid level isn't not quite right and took some guesswork on my part. You're getting into above average mechanical work, it's not simple. The one thing I do know is that it's critical for the fluid to contain no air and the air to contain no fluid...
> 
> I didn't Loctite the inner seal head because I didn't want to make it difficult to take apart if I needed to change the fluid level again, my maintenance plan just includes checking it every once in a while.
> 
> ...


Ok - makes sense.

Based on your oil/air explanation, I just figured what the opening in the very top of the post does (I think). There is a small split ring, washer and steel doohicky with a seal on it which you can remove. This can be filled carefully with oil and then plugged ensuring 100% air / oil separation as you suggest. I'm gonna give it a try - I tried that previously but the IFP was not in the correct place so it didnt work. I'm guessing this is how they are assembled. I'll report success or failure !

Thanks again

Missile


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Just so folks here know that all reverb posts are not bad, my second reverb has been functioning properly after my first one was a dud and needed to be warrantied. So far, so good. I have about 60 hours of use on mine and have only noticed it has slowed down somewhat since I got it. I'm sure if I bled it, it would speed right back up. Problem is my 2.5 wt oil bottle emptied itself even though the cap was screwed on tight (I left it in the box on its side). I just have to pick up some more oil. The play in the post side-to-side is negligable. I only notice it if I get off my saddle and move it back and forth with my hands. I've also crashed a few times with the post. I don't tighten my seatpost down very hard so that in the event of a crash, the whole post moves inside the seat tube. So far, that's worked well and it has kept itself straight while I'm riding. Lastly, I've been fortunate so far with the remote. Having it mounted upside down has worked wonders for me. I have it sitting in between my brake lever and shifter. I've already crashed multiple times where it is evident by the scrapes on my shifter and brake lever that the remote would have broken if it got hit. I thought this mounting was a brilliant idea by the first few folks that picked up this seatpost. It has definitely saved me a lot of money and headache with the current remote problems I read about in this thread. As far as the hose barb goes, I definitely feel bad for you all with that problem. I've been lucky so far with the original barb as it hasn't taken a hit from a crash, gotten snagged on anything, or even been touched by my hands. I do see though how it could be a weak point. 

My only issue is still the one I posted about a couple of months back and it is my own fault. I definitely bought this post way too quickly before making some measurements on my bike. It's funny, I read every post in this thread over and over to make sure this was the seatpost for me, and then I stupidly forgot to measure my normal post on my bike. As you can imagine, the reverb is too tall for my short legs and I have to find my 'sweet spot' when I am riding. This is simple on smooth trail or pavement but it is very difficult while moving fast at the bottom of a rooty, rocky descent and I've got 3 seconds to pop my seatpost back up into climbing position. I just want to hit the button, sit down, and climb. I like the infinite adjustabilty for crusing around when I want to sit lower than my power pedaling position, but 90% of the time, I just want to hit the button and have the saddle stop in the proper climbing position. This of course prevents me from using the seatpost for its purpose as frequently as I would want to. I've tried coming up with some sort of string attachment, but nothing so far has worked very well. I'm hopeful that the new 2012 reverbs have solved this problem? I've read all the posts in this thread, but I haven't seen any definitive information yet on whether the new 2012 posts have some sort of 'outer' or 'inner' top out mechanism that will stop the post from using its full 125mm or if this new top out mechanism will even be backwards compatible with the 2011 seatposts.

I'm hoping this issue can be resolved or else I gotta sell this seatpost and maybe pick up one of those new Specialized blacklite posts, but I'd rather fix this problem and continue to use the reverb.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

^^^ Well, they're making a 100mm version, so that should solve your problem.


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## Keisersoze (Apr 17, 2011)

I would like to add that my reverb that broke has been replaced by a new one  so RockShox isn't completely all bad even though it took a good chunk of the season to get it after my old one was shipped out.

Looks like I got the newer version so hopefully less problems with it. Haven't ridden it yet but seems like it might go down easier and I can clamp it down harder then my old one.


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## Hikers Only (Oct 18, 2010)

Laterilus said:


> Just so folks here know that all reverb posts are not bad, my second reverb has been functioning properly after my first one was a dud and needed to be warrantied. So far, so good. I have about 60 hours of use on mine and have only noticed it has slowed down somewhat since I got it. I'm sure if I bled it, it would speed right back up. Problem is my 2.5 wt oil bottle emptied itself even though the cap was screwed on tight (I left it in the box on its side). I just have to pick up some more oil. The play in the post side-to-side is negligable. I only notice it if I get off my saddle and move it back and forth with my hands. I've also crashed a few times with the post. I don't tighten my seatpost down very hard so that in the event of a crash, the whole post moves inside the seat tube. So far, that's worked well and it has kept itself straight while I'm riding. Lastly, I've been fortunate so far with the remote. Having it mounted upside down has worked wonders for me. I have it sitting in between my brake lever and shifter. I've already crashed multiple times where it is evident by the scrapes on my shifter and brake lever that the remote would have broken if it got hit. I thought this mounting was a brilliant idea by the first few folks that picked up this seatpost. It has definitely saved me a lot of money and headache with the current remote problems I read about in this thread. As far as the hose barb goes, I definitely feel bad for you all with that problem. I've been lucky so far with the original barb as it hasn't taken a hit from a crash, gotten snagged on anything, or even been touched by my hands. I do see though how it could be a weak point.
> 
> My only issue is still the one I posted about a couple of months back and it is my own fault. I definitely bought this post way too quickly before making some measurements on my bike. It's funny, I read every post in this thread over and over to make sure this was the seatpost for me, and then I stupidly forgot to measure my normal post on my bike. As you can imagine, the reverb is too tall for my short legs and I have to find my 'sweet spot' when I am riding. This is simple on smooth trail or pavement but it is very difficult while moving fast at the bottom of a rooty, rocky descent and I've got 3 seconds to pop my seatpost back up into climbing position. I just want to hit the button, sit down, and climb. I like the infinite adjustabilty for crusing around when I want to sit lower than my power pedaling position, but 90% of the time, I just want to hit the button and have the saddle stop in the proper climbing position. This of course prevents me from using the seatpost for its purpose as frequently as I would want to. I've tried coming up with some sort of string attachment, but nothing so far has worked very well. I'm hopeful that the new 2012 reverbs have solved this problem? I've read all the posts in this thread, but I haven't seen any definitive information yet on whether the new 2012 posts have some sort of 'outer' or 'inner' top out mechanism that will stop the post from using its full 125mm or if this new top out mechanism will even be backwards compatible with the 2011 seatposts.
> 
> I'm hoping this issue can be resolved or else I gotta sell this seatpost and maybe pick up one of those new Specialized blacklite posts, but I'd rather fix this problem and continue to use the reverb.


Check out this article on Bike Rumor, as for 2012 they have developed and enduro collar which allows you to preset the amount the post drops. Maybe you can purchase this on its own?

2012 Rockshox Technologies - Shocks, Posts - Carbon, New Travel, more - Bike Rumor


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

rednova75 said:


> Check out this article on Bike Rumor, as for 2012 they have developed and enduro collar which allows you to preset the amount the post drops. Maybe you can purchase this on its own?
> 
> 2012 Rockshox Technologies - Shocks, Posts - Carbon, New Travel, more - Bike Rumor


I need something like that collar on the inside of the outer tube...so extension will stop 1" shy of the full 5".


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## Keisersoze (Apr 17, 2011)

rednova75 said:


> Check out this article on Bike Rumor, as for 2012 they have developed and enduro collar which allows you to preset the amount the post drops. Maybe you can purchase this on its own?
> 
> 2012 Rockshox Technologies - Shocks, Posts - Carbon, New Travel, more - Bike Rumor


Thanks for this. I was wondering what the silver collar was for that came with my replacement.

It looks like they have the 2011 reverb pictured with the other large silver ring instead of the black and the nipple near the seat is the old square like shapped and not round like the new one.


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## ehigh (Apr 19, 2011)

Keisersoze said:


> I would like to add that my reverb that broke has been replaced by a new one  so RockShox isn't completely all bad even though it took a good chunk of the season to get it after my old one was shipped out.
> 
> Looks like I got the newer version so hopefully less problems with it. Haven't ridden it yet but seems like it might go down easier and I can clamp it down harder then my old one.


A great method for getting quick replacements for Sram equipment that I have found that works for me is this:

I buy products from my LBS. I know many hunt for all the deals on the internet, but that's not really my thing. A bit better support with the LBS anyways. Plus, if a product is faulty and will actually be replaced rather than worked on, what I do is this:

I take it to the shop, I have them send it back, if a replacement is guaranteed then I don't want to wait for Sram to send it back. I buy another one from the shop and then when Sram sends their product to me I just get credited for it. I did this with my X0 rear derailleur as I didn't want to wait three weeks for the replacement to come in.

this is why I plan on getting a Reverb from them. They sound promising enough, problems aside 
everyone can experience problems with anything, it seems


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## Keisersoze (Apr 17, 2011)

wizard604 said:


> The new seat barb (2012) with metal strain relief collar is now available in Canada (probably US as well). My original barb got accidentally broken on the repair stand & the shop replaced it with the newer barb. The metal collar screws onto the barb & protects the tip so it's not as easy to break. The old plastic strain relief really offer no protection at all.


Can you post a pic of what you're talking about?


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## Keisersoze (Apr 17, 2011)

ehigh said:


> A great method for getting quick replacements for Sram equipment that I have found that works for me is this:
> 
> I buy products from my LBS. I know many hunt for all the deals on the internet, but that's not really my thing. A bit better support with the LBS anyways. Plus, if a product is faulty and will actually be replaced rather than worked on, what I do is this:
> 
> ...


But get the 2012 like I have. I would advice against getting the first model although the difference is minimal the 2012 is still noticably better from my experince so far.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Pau11y said:


> I need something like that collar on the inside of the outer tube...so extension will stop 1" shy of the full 5".


LoL!!! +1

The outer clamp just baffles me. It is the exact opposite of what I need. Again, I was the fool for not measuring my seatpost prior to buying the reverb, but wouldn't it make sense that Rockshox would make the reverb adaptable to more frames? I just happen to have a frame with a very high seat tube. This new outer clamp is completely unecessary, in my opinion. The reverb is infinitely adjustable, if you don't feel like bottoming out the saddle, then don't. Just stand up on your bike when the saddle is sufficiently out of the way. It is way different when going the opposite direction. Raising the saddle means you are looking to USE the saddle. I want it to come back up and be in the 'ready' position. Going down I'm not looking to use the saddle and many times i don't bother to bottom it out once I'm satisfied that my legs won't get caught on it. Oh well. Might have to start reading threads about the blacklite if Rockshox isn't going to make an internal limiter.


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## Keisersoze (Apr 17, 2011)

Playing around with the new silver collar that comes with the 2012 edition I've noticed that the barb keeps it from sliding all the way up the post, therefore it seems like if it comes loose or is not secured tight enough it will slam against the already fragile barb when the post is lowered and there's a good change of the barb being damaged. It only slides through when its not aligned with the line of the frame and seat or when its secured by facing the back instead of the front. I won't be using it.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

Any idea why Rock Shox chose to use a torx bolt on the handlebar clamp? Is an allen bolt not good enough? Too easy to unscrew with a normal multi-tool?


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

Penny said:


> Any idea why Rock Shox chose to use a torx bolt on the handlebar clamp? Is an allen bolt not good enough? Too easy to unscrew with a normal multi-tool?


Trying to answer that with any authority would be comparable to reading Tarot cards. However, more and more bits on bikes are going to Torx bits as I believe they are more resistant to stripping (though I do admit that I find them in odd places where torque values are SO low that stripping is highly unlikely . . . . like in the master cylinder caps on my Hopes).


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## ehigh (Apr 19, 2011)

Penny said:


> Any idea why Rock Shox chose to use a torx bolt on the handlebar clamp? Is an allen bolt not good enough? Too easy to unscrew with a normal multi-tool?


not to many people carry a specific wrench for it, so I suppose it could help prevent theft. I had some Crank Brothers grips with torx bolts on them, that pissed me off. Those were trash anyways.


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## tuul75 (Nov 13, 2007)

Lovin my xfusion Hilo. No issues after almost a year of riding.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

ehigh said:


> not to many people carry a specific wrench for it, so I suppose it could help prevent theft. I had some Crank Brothers grips with torx bolts on them, that pissed me off. Those were trash anyways.


Same Torx size as rotor bolts. (the Reverb remote mount bolt) Nearly any decent multi-tool out there has one. You don't need to buy a special tool.

And the post comes with one to fit that(and the bleed port screws), in the event you don't have one floating around already.


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## aldeezy (Nov 27, 2010)

*Where to purchase updated reverb besides online.....*

Hey All,

Can someone tell me if the updated reverb (the all black one with thicker hose) is available for purchase or only available if you're replacing your defective one. Im looking for the 100mm version. I called a couple shops local to me (bay area) and they appeared to not know that there was an updated one out. Also, what is the price for the updated one? Thanks in advance!!


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## BMJ (Sep 16, 2005)

*Hey Missle.....*



The_Missile said:


> Ok - makes sense.
> 
> Based on your oil/air explanation, I just figured what the opening in the very top of the post does (I think). There is a small split ring, washer and steel doohicky with a seal on it which you can remove. This can be filled carefully with oil and then plugged ensuring 100% air / oil separation as you suggest. I'm gonna give it a try - I tried that previously but the IFP was not in the correct place so it didnt work. I'm guessing this is how they are assembled. I'll report success or failure !
> 
> ...


Have you figured out what the top silver do-hickey is all about? My IFP has developed some air in it and has about a 1/4" of squish and was contemplating digging into it. Have you determined the best way to top off the IFP chamber yet?

Thanks!!!


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## XCjon (Nov 14, 2009)

Hi guys, 

Just got my new 2012 reverb for my 11 remedy 9, anyway it has that enduro collar which took a while to work out what it was for. Now i was thinking that if the post failed out on the trail and lost air pressure and wouldn't stay up would it not be unreasonable to then use the enduro collar to keep the post at a higher seat hight to get you back to civilisation? can anyone see an issue with this, better than taking a spare post if ure out in the middle of no where. The only issue i can think of is that the pressure on the stantion required to keep the post from slipping back down would damage it? thoughts everyone??

regards jon


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

tuul75 said:


> Lovin my *xfusion Hilo*. No issues after almost a year of riding.


Literacy, it's a good thing! The thread is about *Reverbs*. Perhaps we enjoy miring in our mechanical problems?


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Woo hooo! RS will be sending me a new one too :thumbsup:


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Pau11y said:


> Woo hooo! RS will be sending me a new one too :thumbsup:


Doh. :madman: How'd you get a new post? When I sent mine to them, they fixed the dropping (air seal?) issue but sent me back the same post and there's still a little play in it.


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## ratty2k (Oct 29, 2007)

Just picked mine up today (post ride) after it being sent away under warranty... A seal had failed causing it to lose air (according to the job sheet) it now seems to be working just fine and dandy... But I'll be carrying a standard post now on future rides just in case and going back to the old fashioned way of undoing the seatpost clamp...


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Add me to the list  Bought mine back in December and it's been flawless all year after an initial bleed. Now it won't hold weight and also appears to be leaking air.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Doh. :madman: How'd you get a new post? When I sent mine to them, they fixed the dropping (air seal?) issue but sent me back the same post and there's still a little play in it.


Something happened and the stanchion got scratched/gouged. I cracked opened the silver collar and slapped in some slick honey and it was a HUGE help. So when mine started to leak remote oil from out the top of the post, new one


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

ratty2k said:


> Just picked mine up today (post ride) after it being sent away under warranty... A seal had failed causing it to lose air (according to the job sheet) it now seems to be working just fine and dandy... But I'll be carrying a standard post now on future rides just in case and going back to the old fashioned way of undoing the seatpost clamp...


Mine had the same issue and the seal was replaced under warranty. First ride out after the warranty and it developed the same issue half way into the ride. So far I've had it two months and its been working correctly on a total of 3 rides. What a joke!


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

I hate to jump on the bandwagon but ...my warranty replacement won't hold air either. I got 2 months/300 miles out of this one. 

Mulling over whether to send it in again or try something else. I really like the ability to have it at any height you wish. Makes pedaling a lot easier when it's not dropped all the way down like a gravity dropper.


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Mine is at the bike shop back from SRAM after warranty service. I'm told they completely rebuilt it. It's going to cost me $6 for shipping and took about 2 weeks. Not bad in all. I'm going to pick it up tonight. Unfortunately it's going on a bike that doesn't get ridden as much anymore, so it'll be hard to comment on how it holds up after service. My new bike is using a 100mm Specialized Command Post BlackLite because the Reverb has too much travel to fit on my new bike with a high seat tube.
> 
> As for the positive reviews? If you go back and read, you'll see I was an ardent supporter of this post since day 1. Mine worked awesome for most of the season and then tanked on me unexpectedly with no warning. Getting it serviced was pretty painless though, so we'll see how long it lasts this time. I still stand by my statement that when it's working, it's the best post on the market. Nothing compares to the feel and action of the Reverb. If it was user serviceable I wouldn't mind so much. Sending it back to SRAM every time it has an air seal issue might get old. Piece of mind has also been shot a bit. I'd be more comfortable bringing my command post with the locking collet on 30+ mile backcountry rides than getting stuck with the Reverb that won't sit at full extension if it goes. If it had failed on my Monarch Crest trip I would have been screwed.


Mine failed on Georgia Pass from Kenosha to Breck. It really really sucked climbing with a post that wouldn't hold air and stay up. Once it comes back from warranty a second time I'll never take it on a back country ride again. I have absolutely no faith in the quality of this post.


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

trailbrain said:


> Mine failed on Georgia Pass from Kenosha to Breck. It really really sucked climbing with a post that wouldn't hold air and stay up. Once it comes back from warranty a second time I'll never take it on a back country ride again. I have absolutely no faith in the quality of this post.


By coincidence mine survived Kenosha to Breck last week but crapped out on Rainbow after doing Monarch Crest. I wonder if you can use a band clamp to keep the post at full extension if it goes on a long ride? I suppose it might mar the finish and possibly ruin the post. After doing that climb to Georgia Pass and then faced with another 2000' or whatever on the rest of the CTR before Breck I can imagine that really did suck big time.


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## kibbs (Jun 8, 2009)

wizard604 said:


> The new seat barb (2012) with metal strain relief collar is now available in Canada (probably US as well). My original barb got accidentally broken on the repair stand & the shop replaced it with the newer barb. The metal collar screws onto the barb & protects the tip so it's not as easy to break. The old plastic strain relief really offer no protection at all.


Wizard where did you get the new barb/relief? I am hoping you did no have to buy the hose kit to get it. Broke mine to day will check the LBS.


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## wizard604 (Jul 10, 2011)

The shop I was dealing with was in Whistler. They had to get it from another shop because they dont carry the reverb. And no, I didnt have to get the hose kit. The barb is a warranty replacement so free of charge. If your shop doesnt have it, just get them to order directly from SRAM


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

Mines been back at SRAM for 4 weeks! :madman::madmax:


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Well my rebuilt one that SRAM just sent back took a dump today. Started going up and down slow, and by the end of the ride didn't want to come all the way up and was stopping about an inch or two short.

Not sure if this means the internal seals went belly up, or if part of the system needs to be bled (or the whole thing).

I did discover that the silver collar was loose last week to the point that I could unscrew it by hand. I re-snugged it down, but don't know if that had anything to do with it or not.


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## kibbs (Jun 8, 2009)

Thanks Wizard, no luck in Ontario LBS says Lambert and Norco do not have the parts, well they had 2 of the new strain relief but that is useless without the barb.

Does anyone have the specific part numbers? Need both barb and strain relief



wizard604 said:


> The shop I was dealing with was in Whistler. They had to get it from another shop because they dont carry the reverb. And no, I didnt have to get the hose kit. The barb is a warranty replacement so free of charge. If your shop doesnt have it, just get them to order directly from SRAM


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> Well my rebuilt one that SRAM just sent back took a dump today. Started going up and down slow, and by the end of the ride didn't want to come all the way up and was stopping about an inch or two short.
> 
> Not sure if this means the internal seals went belly up, or if part of the system needs to be bled (or the whole thing).
> 
> I did discover that the silver collar was loose last week to the point that I could unscrew it by hand. I re-snugged it down, but don't know if that had anything to do with it or not.


When was it rebuilt, and did they slap on the new hose (and barb) for you?


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

It was rebuilt just a few weeks ago, maybe a month? It got all 3 fixes the CS rep told me were the major problems with the first year posts: 

1) flimsy expanding housing
2) old barb under the post clamp
3) seals or something with the internals (can't remember exactly what this was).

So mine's got the new hose and barb. Worked fine when I first got it back, so no idea what the problem is suddenly. All I can think of is the silver collar came loose like I mentioned.

The remote does pop back slowly though when pressed, so maybe I just need to bleed the remote end?


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> The remote does pop back slowly though when pressed, so maybe I just need to bleed the remote end?


Dude, pop the saddle off, and remove the lower saddle clamp. Take a look at that silver thingie under the clamp/on top of the inner post and see if there's a pool of remote fluid (2.5wt oil). My post had a leak here and the remote would loose its ability of control the speed of the extension.


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## pabloquintana (Mar 17, 2010)

ratty2k said:


> Just picked mine up today (post ride) after it being sent away under warranty... A seal had failed causing it to lose air (according to the job sheet) it now seems to be working just fine and dandy... But I'll be carrying a standard post now on future rides just in case and going back to the old fashioned way of undoing the seatpost clamp...


You know, I just went over a weekend with 54 km one day and 32 km the next day with my Kind Shock, and guess what: I spent the whole route with my regular Thomson in my backpack. Yes, what a Joke

At almost the last few hours of the last trip I had to put the Thomson in. 

The only good thing I can say about the Kind Shock post is that now I can rebuild it at home. Will test with some different pressures and if still gets air past the piston's seals I will try changing those o-rings with tighter ones.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Ok so mine is def dead again. Tried a remote bleed, no dice. Did a full bleed, no dice. Took it off and looked a the top of the post under the clamp here Pau11y suggested, dry as a bone. 

Check air pressure, wham, 40 psi. Got it to 150 psi with my shock pump and watched the needle slowly start falling. 

Guess another call to Rock Shox is in order. :madman::madman::madman:

Bummer, I really want to like this and use it, but I've about worn my patience out. I want to feel confident in my equipment, and I'm def not there with this.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

So, after coming back to my reverb after a DH trip to CO, I found it to be relatively unresponsive. SLOOOOOOW up and down (5 seconds at least) and wasn't achieving full drop. This Reverb is my 3rd from SRAM, and it came from the refurb factory with all updated internals, but the bleed fluid was oddly (verfied with SRAM that it was odd) gold, not pink. The hose was also pretty flimsy, and had a chalkiness to the outer coating.

That being said, I called up SRAM again and talked to them about the problem. They said a new hose kit should be sent out, and I got the updated 2012 hose kit in less than a week and installed it last night.

Thoughts:
1. Changing the strain relief widget to the threaded Al piece is a HUGE step up. My original part was always rotating and getting caught at full drop, I even tried taping it to the seatpost body to prevent rotation. It was just too little room for mistake in there. 
2. Hose barbs are now THREADED! That means no brute-force, marring cables with your channel locks while trying to force a hose onto a barb.
3. Hose quality is much different than my last hose, and is akin to the thickness/pliability of my second hose. This one seems slightly ribbed and is overall much sturdier feeling and hopefully performing.

I will say that before I started on the hose kit last night, I checked pressure and it was at 240psi. I pumped it up to 250, only to watch it level back out to 240. Perhaps my post has it's own preference, but it stayed at 240 over the course of an hour, so I just let it be. 

Hose upgrade kit is installed and functional - my Reverb is working well again and I am stoked!


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## kiodo (Oct 23, 2007)

Is anyone using a goodridge hose and barbs kit?
Can someone please point me to what are the right parts from this shop?


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

kiodo said:


> Is anyone using a goodridge hose and barbs kit?
> Can someone please point me to what are the right parts from this shop?


For the post side, use the new modified threaded barb from RS and the Goodridge hose collar. The RS collar's opening is too small. 
On the remote side, you have to be very careful to not let the hose wires flair. What I did is trim the hose and used a Dremel to clean up the cut. Then, w/out pealing the rubber hose cover off, thread on the remote barb to the point where it contacts the hose's wires. Then, w/ some pliers, make sure all of the hose wires are caught in the relief of the new remote barb, then keep threading till you bottom the barb. I also used some heat shrink tubing to seal up the remote end and make sure the hose wires don't flair.

But then my post was leaking remote fluid out the top of the stanchion so off it came when I sent it back to RS. I'm waiting for my post to come back...


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

So I called RS today and the CS rep I talked to said they'd just replace mine with a 2012 model since this is the second time I've had to send it back. Just need to get my shop to call and set up the RA.

But this has me thinking twice about using 2nd BNIB one I have sitting on my workbench waiting for my new frame. It's a 2011 model and has the new hose, but not the new barb or metal strain relief under the clamp.


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## matrixod (Sep 3, 2011)

i think i can try this :...


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Yeah, I've got the new hose kit too. Maybe I'll just do that.

EDIT: WTH is up with posting out order. I was replying to the thread UNDER me.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> So I called RS today and the CS rep I talked to said they'd just replace mine with a 2012 model since this is the second time I've had to send it back. Just need to get my shop to call and set up the RA.
> 
> But this has me thinking twice about using 2nd BNIB one I have sitting on my workbench waiting for my new frame. It's a 2011 model and has the new hose, but not the new barb or metal strain relief under the clamp.


Go get a (free) hose kit from your LBS, and keep your old hose if it's the good one...done. Not too much to think about in my book :skep:


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> WTH is up with posting out order. I was replying to the thread UNDER me.


:ciappa::ciappa::ciappa:


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## kiodo (Oct 23, 2007)

Pau11y said:


> For the post side, use the new modified threaded barb from RS and the Goodridge hose collar. The RS collar's opening is too small.
> On the remote side, you have to be very careful to not let the hose wires flair. What I did is trim the hose and used a Dremel to clean up the cut. Then, w/out pealing the rubber hose cover off, thread on the remote barb to the point where it contacts the hose's wires. Then, w/ some pliers, make sure all of the hose wires are caught in the relief of the new remote barb, then keep threading till you bottom the barb. I also used some heat shrink tubing to seal up the remote end and make sure the hose wires don't flair.
> 
> But then my post was leaking remote fluid out the top of the stanchion so off it came when I sent it back to RS. I'm waiting for my post to come back...


Thanks Pau.

Is there a goodridge barb that can replace te RS part? I'm forced to try different solutions, 'cause my reverb comes from germany, via Ebay, and I'm in Italy. I can't afford sending it back to Germany, hoping the shop will send it back to RS Germany, and then wait to have it sent back to me!

:madman:


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## kibbs (Jun 8, 2009)

Pau11y

Thanks for the hints. The Goodridge M6 is a bit of a pain to get on but an awl to widen the tube a little then begin threading proved to be good. A quick bleed and I am back on with a working post.



Pau11y said:


> So cats and curiosity... I looked for a Goodridge replacement barb for the weak OE one at the base of the saddle clamp. I found a post that someone slapped on Chainreaction Cycles where they pieced together another solution to the weak barb situation. I'm thinking you might also want to consider the hose being replaced also since the Goodridge hose is a lot more supple and stronger than the OE Reverb hose.


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## kibbs (Jun 8, 2009)

Kiodo I just put a couple of pics up it went under Pau11y's first post mentioning the Goodridge barbs, M6 work like a charm.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

kibbs said:


> Kiodo I just put a couple of pics up it went under Pau11y's first post mentioning the Goodridge barbs, M6 work like a charm.


Actually, the one you want is the M6x1 Elixir specific barb for the caliper. It carries that flat surface for the O-ring to seal against. The normal M6x1 is a hex nut,and kinda leaves openings for the O-ring to ooze out. The Rockshox barb is black steel while the hose collar is alloy. The Goodridge steel collar would do better to help relief stress on the hose.


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## JimEG (Aug 19, 2009)

Follow up to my post a few weeks ago where I stated mine had worked without any issues(with a couple bleeds) since this spring.

Mine failed yesterday at the mid point of Comfortably Numb. I could feel the air spring failing as the ride went on. I'd hit a rock or root while seated and the post would squish down a little. After a few hundred(or more) of these seated bumps the post finally failed and would no longer stay up at all. DOA. I had a nice long ride back to the village with my saddle slammed to the collar. LAME. Epic fail SRAM. Will talk to my LBS tomorrow about what is next. Not sure if I want another one of these now. Having a mechanical failure like this on an epic ride is just not an option.


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## ehigh (Apr 19, 2011)

This is one of those things where I know that there are plenty of riders that are perfectly happy with this seatpost and never talk about it because they are too busy riding and having fun with it to even think about it. Even still, I think I might wait until the technologies are a little bit more advanced so that I do not encounter so many of the troubles that people are having. A minor convenience with the chance of such a terrible inconvenience doesn't really seem worth the gamble to me right now. My seat post is not one of those things that I want to have to fear having troubles with. I'll leave my cautions towards parts to rear derailleurs for now.


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## kiodo (Oct 23, 2007)

kibbs said:


> Kiodo I just put a couple of pics up it went under Pau11y's first post mentioning the Goodridge barbs, M6 work like a charm.


Thankyou mate! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## kiodo (Oct 23, 2007)

Pau11y said:


> Actually, the one you want is the M6x1 Elixir specific barb for the caliper. It carries that flat surface for the O-ring to seal against. The normal M6x1 is a hex nut,and kinda leaves openings for the O-ring to ooze out. The Rockshox barb is black steel while the hose collar is alloy. The Goodridge steel collar would do better to help relief stress on the hose.


Understood. I'm goin for it. Thaks Pau11y :thumbsup:

edit: should be this one, right?


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

kiodo said:


> Understood. I'm goin for it. Thaks Pau11y :thumbsup:
> 
> edit: should be this one, right?


Yup, that's the right one. Good luck and post pics!


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## presslab (Jan 5, 2007)

Well, my Reverb just failed, after about 30 rides on it. The seatpost turned springy and I could pull it up. I noticed a couple scratches in the stanchion, yet there was no indication of any rock chips or anything. I'm guessing there was a burr from machining inside that scratched it, causing the seal to fail, and allowing air to enter. I also had to bleed it often because of the hose issue.

I sent it off for warranty, it'll be nice to get the new hose too.


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## JimEG (Aug 19, 2009)

Mine is off to warranty. 2 day promised turn around at SRAM. More to be revealed.


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## Lev (Oct 12, 2004)

JimEG said:


> Mine is off to warranty. 2 day promised turn around at SRAM. More to be revealed.


How are you guys getting in touch with SRAM? I thought you had to go through LBS to get warranty replacements?


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

My LBS told me RS was expecting a shipment of 2012's in on the 20th... seems like they got it and are shipping per that 2 day turn around post!


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## ratpick (Mar 24, 2008)

Lev said:


> How are you guys getting in touch with SRAM? I thought you had to go through LBS to get warranty replacements?


I'm particularly interested in this too.. I bought mine off the internet (Tree Fort Bikes) and they've, so far, not responded to requests to help with SRAM (or even to purchase the part that contains the new barb and hose). I guess that's the downside of buying major components from the net.

I'm about to get my fork serviced so am going to use the opportunity to ask the LBS to do the warranty work on my Reverb, since I'm already paying for their time.

Amazing that there's no way to contact SRAM directly.


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## presslab (Jan 5, 2007)

ratpick said:


> I'm particularly interested in this too.. I bought mine off the internet (Tree Fort Bikes) and they've, so far, not responded to requests to help with SRAM (or even to purchase the part that contains the new barb and hose). I guess that's the downside of buying major components from the net.


I emailed SRAM and they said I needed to go through a dealer. I too bought from Tree Fort; emails to them and their online form went completely unanswered. I eventually called and was able to get an RMA - they tried to pawn off a hose kit, which would not fix the major failure of my post, but I persisted and they agreed to warranty the whole thing.

I'm not sure how Tree Fort ever won the best of MTBR award. I guess things have changed. I am crossing my fingers for a hassle free warranty repair.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

presslab said:


> I emailed SRAM and they said I needed to go through a dealer. I too bought from Tree Fort; emails to them and their online form went completely unanswered. I eventually called and was able to get an RMA - they tried to pawn off a hose kit, which would not fix the major failure of my post, but I persisted and they agreed to warranty the whole thing.
> 
> I'm not sure how Tree Fort ever won the best of MTBR award. I guess things have changed. I am crossing my fingers for a hassle free warranty repair.


You called Tree Fort for the RMA or SRAM direct? I'm also a Tree Fort bikes purchaser with a blown seal. I stopped off at my LBS today and explained the situation and offered them lunch. They declined the lunch but are processing my warranty. I'll get them something but I can't decide if they're coffee, beer or lunch guys.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Paging Polymathic: 100mm Reverb


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## taletotell (Mar 3, 2009)

Sucks for everyone that these seat posts aren't all they've been hyped up to be. My buddy's post developed play after about 3 months of use.

Looks like I'll stick with my normal post. I may have to stop to raise my saddle but from what I see here and from what I noticed about the joplin when riding it for just a single day I'll be happier if I just stick with the old light qr style.

Maybe in another 3 years RS and all the other companies will have this worked out.

PS Doesn't it seem like the mechanism for raising and lowering these should be as narrow as a drinking straw? Why are they so heavy?


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

Pau11y said:


> Paging Polymathic: 100mm Reverb


Very tempting, but I'll pass for now as it is still pricey and I have an original one that has been working flawlessly. I also found out that not all saddle rails are as tall. Using a thinner (shorter) saddle remedies the issue (even if that saddle isn't as comfy).

Those of us with the tube all the way down have an advantage: in case of post failure, I simply have to raise the bottom part with the quick release.

And to those of you opting not to use a adj. post for fear of failure, you are making mistake. I just rode my HT which doesn't have an adj. seat post, and it sucks. I'd rather risk riding with a dropped post for a couple of hours one day than ride every day without an adj. post.

Seriously, listening to some people here it seems that the very unlikely chance of a failure on a ride is enough to make you shy away, when failure merely means you do a little standing and get a bit more exercise. It's note like a crank failure or derailleur failure or a tacoed wheel. You guys sound like people refusing to take planes for fear of safety, and instead driving when the risks are far greater. And if there is a failure, SRAM has a two-year warranty. I'm not worried.


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## JimEG (Aug 19, 2009)

I'll never run a fixed post again. I can deal with maintenance on these things. They will figure it our or they will fail and FOX or someone else will succeed. Either way the fixed seat post is dead. The Reveb is dead long live the Reverb.


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## Lev (Oct 12, 2004)

Anyone know if SRAM has a limit on the number of warranty replacements that they can supply for a single customer? The reason I ask is that I'm still waiting on a repair of my second reverb and it's been months now. My LBS told me something along the lines that I've already gotten my one warranty. From looking through this thread, that doesn't sound right. I've been without the post now for such a long time that I completely forgot just how nice it is to ride with one of those things. Blah


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Lev said:


> Anyone know if SRAM has a limit on the number of warranty replacements that they can supply for a single customer? The reason I ask is that I'm still waiting on a repair of my second reverb and it's been months now. My LBS told me something along the lines that I've already gotten my one warranty. From looking through this thread, that doesn't sound right. I've been without the post now for such a long time that I completely forgot just how nice it is to ride with one of those things. Blah


Goto your LBS and question them what the hell they're talking about 1 free warranty... I'm suspecting they're talking about shipping fees.
While you're there, ask them to raise hell w/ Sram about your post. I have another trail bike w/ another post, else I'd be screaming bloody murder!


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## Duncan1104 (Aug 4, 2007)

I didn't realize these had such bad reliability. My dad has one on one of his bikes and it developed play within the first and only ride. It has been a month since he has ridden the Reverb equipped bike and it is slow as can be. Oh, forgot to mention that I had to bleed it right out of the box. This thing is nothing but problems. Quite disappointing being that it is a huge chunk of money for something that rarely works.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Duncan1104 said:


> I didn't realize these had such bad reliability. My dad has one on one of his bikes and it developed play within the first and only ride. It has been a month since he has ridden the Reverb equipped bike and it is slow as can be. Oh, forgot to mention that I had to bleed it right out of the box. This thing is nothing but problems. Quite disappointing being that it is a huge chunk of money for something that rarely works.


Give it to me. I'll send you a Thomson post in trade :thumbsup:


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## Duncan1104 (Aug 4, 2007)

Pau11y said:


> Give it to me. I'll send you a Thomson post in trade :thumbsup:


Haha! You know that would be tempting to me, but it's not my decision to make. He loved it when he rode it and doesn't want to give it up yet.


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## aTomOfAllTrades (Apr 22, 2010)

Add me to the list...had the post for about a little over 150 miles of flawless riding. Then during a long mountain ride at Carvin's Cove I put it down for descending Hemlock Tunnel.....then at the bottom it wouldn't come back up. Thankfully, at this point, I could press the remote and pull the seat up by hand, where it would sag about an inch when I sat on it, but at least it would stay. Finished the ride that way, no further issues. 

Then yesterday went for a short ride during lunch and about 30 minutes in the post would no longer stay up at all, so I could freely pull the post up and push it down by hand with minimal effort and it wouldn't stay up under load. 

So, I took it to the shop, borrowed a bleed kit and did a full bleed. No matter how long I did it, it would keep cavitating and pulling air when I pull a vacuum with the syringe. When the bubbles slowed down enough I finished the bleed and plugged it back up, but the remote button rebounds very slowly and it doesn't matter anyways, because the seat still freely moves around independent of the remote. 

When I took the post out of the frame I saw the area all around the air pressure fitting was covered in fluid, which is probably how the inside of my BB looks now too. Whatever the case, it appears to have catastrophically failed internals, so I'm getting my LBS to send it back for warranty. I'm hoping they'll upgrade me to the 2012, or at least give me a left-hand remote this time, but we'll see. I'll definitely have a back-up rigid post now for when this kind of thing happens again.


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

aTomOfAllTrades said:


> Add me to the list...had the post for about a little over 150 miles of flawless riding. Then during a long mountain ride at Carvin's Cove I put it down for descending Hemlock Tunnel.....then at the bottom it wouldn't come back up. Thankfully, at this point, I could press the remote and pull the seat up by hand, where it would sag about an inch when I sat on it, but at least it would stay. Finished the ride that way, no further issues.
> 
> Then yesterday went for a short ride during lunch and about 30 minutes in the post would no longer stay up at all, so I could freely pull the post up and push it down by hand with minimal effort and it wouldn't stay up under load.
> 
> ...


You describe exactly what has happened to my post twice now. The 2nd time following warranty repair. The reason I heard from a reputable source is that they are all blowing up because one of the machines that is supposed to torque the inner seal head down doesn't. So an o-ring escapes and the air with it.

Going from a fixed post to an adjustable one is sort of like going from cantilever or V brakes to discs. It doesn't seem like that big a deal until you go back to riding a bike with rim brakes and it is quickly apparent how superior discs are.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Duncan1104 said:


> He loved it when he rode it and doesn't want to give it up yet.


Yeah, him and about the rest of the mtb community that has tried a dropper. They're so cool to ride with you'd live w/ the PITA of maintenance and service. I don't care what ppl say about how good brand x is over brand y, they ALL SUCK hairy donkey balls right now. :madman:


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## aTomOfAllTrades (Apr 22, 2010)

So you've experienced the same problem, did you also notice air coming out of the bottom of the post when compressing it? When cycling the post up and down manually I can push my palm over the bottom of the post and actually hold pressure, which indicates to me that the air spring seals have failed completely. But the hydraulic locking mechanism also must have some valve issue if it's not lock in any position whatsoever. 

Pau11y's point is well-taken, that every post out there has had issues with someone, and for me every single post me or any of my friends have had have all been returned for maintenance issues....Joplin, Command Post, KS posts, Gravity Droppers, this Reverb.........every single one of them except my "crappy" KS i851. I got it for $50 with the remote, brand new, and it's been abused without being serviced once in the past year, still working flawlessly. Sad that it's no longer being produced, haha. 

Anyways, the Reverb unfortunately has had about as bad an initial product run as any part I've seen...hopefully the 2012 model changes reduce the number of catastrophic failures. Too bad too, because when it's functioning properly, it is IMO the best dropper post out there in terms of functionality and feel. But waiting for a week or two every other month for a replacement just ruins it.


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## amrt (May 31, 2011)

rockman said:


> You describe exactly what has happened to my post twice now. The 2nd time following warranty repair. The reason I heard from a reputable source is that they are all blowing up because one of the machines that is *supposed to torque the inner seal head down doesn't. So an o-ring escapes and the air with it*. .


Thanks for that, just googled & found this thread after mine blew the other day after about 3 months use. I watched the SRAM service vid & took it apart. It wasn't the schrader valve or the o ring under, so figured it must be at the other end of the air shaft thats not covered in their service vid. The seal head had either unscrewed or as above wasn't torqued down as the o ring was visible and pinched. So replaced that, tightened everything up & now holds 250psi fine....but when I pump it up the post sucks itself down about an inch of the travel like some negative chamber thing. Anyone got an idea about that?
Cheers


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## vince7870 (Jan 14, 2010)

pos in my opinion. 

less than 2 hrs of riding after factory rebuild and supposed new seals.....it won't hold air again! f'n junk!


it made it about 2 hrs before it failed would take a bleed and was sent back!(brand new)

all new buyers beware go elsewhere don't waste your money!


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## pthomas99 (Sep 14, 2011)

sending mine back after 10 days on the bike and 1 ride, looks like the quality of the 2012 model isn't much of an improvement on the 2011 model out of the box, initially did the bleed on the remote then full bleed, and sort of worked on the fastest setting the seat would return, then eventually checked the pressure which was way too low at 50psi, set the pressure to the recommended 250 and this improved the return speed, but the pressure keeps dropping 

now sending it back for full refund or replacement, but retailer wants it to send it to rockshox for warranty repair which for something that’s less than 2 weeks old is a joke


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

The LBS called today with my warranty replacement. 1.5 weeks from when I dropped it off and I received a brand new 2012 in complete retail packaging as a replacement at no charge. So, at least SRAM is good at replacing them. My problem now is that I'd really just like to sell it since it's brand new and fully packaged. The problem is I don't trust it enough to sell it to someone. My luck it'll puke its guts on their second ride.

I'd also like to give great thanks to The Bikeway Source - Bedford, MA. They handled the warranty work with a smile even though I didn't buy it from them. I asked them if I could buy lunch as thanks and they flat out refused. After some persistent pleading on my part they agreed to beer instead. A great bunch people :thumbsup:


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## nord1899 (Aug 29, 2011)

Got mine in beginning of August. After 7 rides totaling not quite 50 miles, including 1 lift serve day, the barb on it broke. Fortunately as mine is slammed down as far as it can go into the frame, I just used the quick release collar and lifted it up to finish that ride.
Took it to the LBS that built my bike with it, they had the new barb fitting and got it fixed, though they did run into I believe the compression problem people here mentioned. Took an extra day or two of them talking with SRAM. End result was I think 3 days at the shop, no charge due to warranty.

5 more rides since then, about 45 miles, not a single issue. And it does get used a fair bit on each ride.


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

I have had mine for a year without any issues other than breaking the barb - that includes winter riding and almost daily riding since April. There must be 10 of them among my riding buddies - also no issues other than breaking a couple of barbs.


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## rael (Jul 7, 2010)

Another data point:

I got mine last year, the first one at my LBS, have single-syringe bled three times, absolutely no issues.

Bleed takes me five minutes.

I ride about 3x per week, figure 300 hours or so usage. More Trail than AM, but frequent crashes make up for it.

Original hose and barb.

Sorry for all of you guys with issues, I'm sure I'll run into them down the line.

dave


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## jschwart73 (May 1, 2007)

amrt said:


> Thanks for that, just googled & found this thread after mine blew the other day after about 3 months use. I watched the SRAM service vid & took it apart. It wasn't the schrader valve or the o ring under, so figured it must be at the other end of the air shaft thats not covered in their service vid. The seal head had either unscrewed or as above wasn't torqued down as the o ring was visible and pinched. So replaced that, tightened everything up & now holds 250psi fine....but when I pump it up the post sucks itself down about an inch of the travel like some negative chamber thing. Anyone got an idea about that?
> Cheers


Yep, the problem is that when the inner seal head blew out, you lost some of the suspension fluid inside the post. SRAM won't tell us how much fluid goes in there or provide the IFP depth, so when you bled the air out (that had leaked from the seal head coming apart) of the fluid, it's a little low.

I guessed on the fluid level with mine when I had the same issue and it did the same thing, but once it was all put back together, I was getting full travel on the post so I just ran with it. SRAM has since replaced my post under warranty (when my shop called to try and get info on IFP depth and/or fluid level, they just said to replace the post under warranty) with a 2012 version, but I will be popping it open to make sure the inner seal head is nice and snug.


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

Same here on the reliability. One year, 2,500 miles, a dozen crashes, used in all weather conditions. I'm also a constant adjuster, and I'm lazy enough that I use it to mount and dismount too. Additionally, my bike hangs from the saddle. Not a single issue besides the original bleed. I wonder if weight is an issue for some. (I'm 150 lbs geared up.)

And I still have a full year of warranty left. I'm not worried.


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## jschwart73 (May 1, 2007)

polymathic said:


> Same here on the reliability. One year, 2,500 miles, a dozen crashes, used in all weather conditions. I'm also a constant adjuster, and I'm lazy enough that I use it to mount and dismount too. Additionally, my bike hangs from the saddle. Not a single issue besides the original bleed. I wonder if weight is an issue for some. (I'm 150 lbs geared up.)
> 
> And I still have a full year of warranty left. I'm not worried.


That's an interesting thought about the weight - I'm around 210 geared up. Hmmm...


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

jschwart73 said:


> amrt said:
> 
> 
> > ....but when I pump it up the post sucks itself down about an inch of the travel like some negative chamber thing. Anyone got an idea about that?
> ...


amrt,
Any chance when you pop your post open (assuming from the top?) you can take a measure of the IFP depth? I'd like to intentionally achieve what jschwart managed...1" of reduced full extension...or maybe thru some experiments, I can tweak the IFP level to achieve _any_ full extension I want...?


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## jschwart73 (May 1, 2007)

Pau11y said:


> amrt,
> Any chance when you pop your post open (assuming from the top?) you can take a measure of the IFP depth? I'd like to intentionally achieve what jschwart managed...1" of reduced full extension...or maybe thru some experiments, I can tweak the IFP level to achieve _any_ full extension I want...?


I'm currently debating taking my brand new post apart and measuring.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

jschwart73 said:


> I'm currently debating taking my brand new post apart and measuring.


Don't know if this is asking a bit too much, but if you do go into the post to get the oil/IFP level, any way you can shoot some pics of what's going on in the stanchions? I found that internal view from Sicklines, but it's too small and there IS no exploded view of what's in the upper tube.


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## q2xltrgt (Mar 3, 2009)

polymathic said:


> Same here on the reliability. One year, 2,500 miles, a dozen crashes, used in all weather conditions. I'm also a constant adjuster, and I'm lazy enough that I use it to mount and dismount too. Additionally, my bike hangs from the saddle. Not a single issue besides the original bleed. I wonder if weight is an issue for some. (I'm 150 lbs geared up.)
> 
> And I still have a full year of warranty left. I'm not worried.


been on mine for 10 months now, other than snapping off the remote lever once, not a single issue. 240lbs geared up. 3 super d races and requisite practice runs and training, twice a week rides on local trails and a couple of crashes.


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## sanokano (Jun 2, 2009)

*dead again*

well the 2nd post has died after 5 rides, it just deflated while riding along the trail , now i have to send it back , this was a brand new post it was working great up until this happend
rock shox cant be sell many of these with all of the problems their having, unless were all of the unlucky one's . i guess i'll see what they'll do for me but i dont think i will put it back on the bike, it sucks having to ride out with a broken seat post. just ranting !!!!:madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman:


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## ratty2k (Oct 29, 2007)

First ride on mine tomorrow after being repaired... Taking a non-dropper post just in case now tho'!


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## amrt (May 31, 2011)

Pau11y said:


> amrt,
> Any chance when you pop your post open (assuming from the top?) you can take a measure of the IFP depth? I'd like to intentionally achieve what jschwart managed...1" of reduced full extension...or maybe thru some experiments, I can tweak the IFP level to achieve _any_ full extension I want...?


Sorry, sent it back last week


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## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

polymathic said:


> Same here on the reliability. One year, 2,500 miles, a dozen crashes, used in all weather conditions. I'm also a constant adjuster, and I'm lazy enough that I use it to mount and dismount too. Additionally, my bike hangs from the saddle. Not a single issue besides the original bleed. I wonder if weight is an issue for some. (I'm 150 lbs geared up.)
> 
> And I still have a full year of warranty left. I'm not worried.


Me too! I have two of them, both are 10 months old, and other than one broken barb, I have had ZERO problems. I have not even bled them yet at all. One is on a bike of a friends that I maintain, he may ride well, but the only maintenance he can handle is braking sh*t, yes he broke the barb.

I am 200lbs geared up ride aggressively in the wet and slimy Pacific Northwet. I've crashed, super D'd, and ridden everything in sight many times. 3 or 4 days a week and a whole ton of adjusting for me would'nt want to live without it.

It sucks to hear all the stories here, I keep waiting for a failure, but alas mine takes a lickin and keeps on tickin!

In fact, I would buy another one just to have on hand when I do have a failure, except I wonder about the quality of the current batch!


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Just finished installing my 2012 that I received as a warranty replacement. I found the area around the e-clip under the saddle clamp covered in oil. Sitting on it gives ~2mm of vertical compression. Not a smooth compression, but what feels like "slop" with a hard stop when it bottoms out. Can't wait to see how annoying that is on the trail.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

car_nut said:


> Just finished installing my 2012 that I received as a warranty replacement. I found the area around the e-clip under the saddle clamp covered in oil. Sitting on it gives ~2mm of vertical compression. Not a smooth compression, but what feels like "slop" with a hard stop when it bottoms out. Can't wait to see how annoying that is on the trail.


FYI, I received a new 2012 replacement post for my 2011 when this issue appeared on mine.


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## dsully575 (Feb 23, 2004)

I thought I finally got a working post, but my warranty replacement just failed :madman::madman:

My first post was a 2010, week 42 and it was a lemon out of the box. Numerous bleeds didn't fix it. LBS sent it to Rock Shox to be fixed. They had it 4 EFFING WEEKS and it failed 20 minutes into it's first ride. 

Took it back and my LBS swapped it out for a 2011, week 17--that was in July. I read somewhere back on this thread that it seemed like any post 2011, week 11 and beyond were good to go. I thought that too, until now.

It started a few days ago, dropping about half an inch. Now after 2 more rides it's dropping at least 2". When I go to add air it only takes 150 psi and I can hear air escaping out of the bottom.

Back to the LBS tomorrow where I'm going to beg for a refund.

I'm curious about Fox's D.O.S.S. dropper post that's supposed to be out soon. From what I've read, they've been testing the hell out of it for quite awhile hoping to avoid "the Reverb situation". Mark Weir has been riding and testing it for close to a year if I'm not mistaken. Kind of makes me think if it can stand up to Mark Weir's abuse, it should be good to go. Rock Shox OBVIOUSLY didn't test the Reverb enough before they decided to release it.

Edit: even though Fox debuted the prototype at the 2010 Interbike and then again at this year's, from what I just read on several sites, it won't be available until 2013. 2013!!?? 2 effing more years???? :madman::madman::madman:

I never should have sold my Gravity Dropper. It was ugly, but at least it worked.


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## jschwart73 (May 1, 2007)

Pau11y said:


> Don't know if this is asking a bit too much, but if you do go into the post to get the oil/IFP level, any way you can shoot some pics of what's going on in the stanchions? I found that internal view from Sicklines, but it's too small and there IS no exploded view of what's in the upper tube.


I've had mine apart before, there isn't anything but the silver inner head, the IFP disc and the plunger/shaft. On the inside of the inner head, there are 3 o-rings. Two that seal the shaft and then the one larger one that seals the head itself.

It's pretty simple in there, just don't know the depth. I decided to leave mine alone and see how it does. Swapped in my left hand remote, bled the line and left it alone.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

jschwart73 said:


> I've had mine apart before, there isn't anything but the silver inner head, the IFP disc and the plunger/shaft. On the inside of the inner head, there are 3 o-rings. Two that seal the shaft and then the one larger one that seals the head itself.
> 
> It's pretty simple in there, just don't know the depth. I decided to leave mine alone and see how it does. Swapped in my left hand remote, bled the line and left it alone.


I called RS: "...we use a special tool and it requires a gravity bleed..." I have a feeling they don't want anyone going in there to check out how dodgy the engineering is.
I asked if I can tweak the oil volume to adjust the 5" down to 4.25"...so the IFP bottoms against the incompressible fluid and was told, "that's not how they work." I gave up at that point. 
Also, I asked for an exploded view of what's in the inner leg... denied! 

It's strange the Bxrs are set up so user tweak-able, while this thing is like the friggin' Schrodinger cat box...DON'T LOOK, you'll kill the cat! :madman:


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## butasan (May 29, 2009)

deleted.


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## jschwart73 (May 1, 2007)

Pau11y said:


> I called RS: "...we use a special tool and it requires a gravity bleed..." I have a feeling they don't want anyone going in there to check out how dodgy the engineering is.
> I asked if I can tweak the oil volume to adjust the 5" down to 4.25"...so the IFP bottoms against the incompressible fluid and was told, "that's not how they work." I gave up at that point.
> Also, I asked for an exploded view of what's in the inner leg... denied!
> 
> It's strange the Bxrs are set up so user tweak-able, while this thing is like the friggin' Schrodinger cat box...DON'T LOOK, you'll kill the cat! :madman:


I'm pretty sure they're right about "that's not how they work" - I didn't see any way of limiting travel by fluid level alone. If it didn't have enough fluid, it would simply come apart when the shaft passed completely out of the IFP disc - The shaft doesn't have a limiter on it to keep it inside the IFP.

I get the concept of a complete bleed - You do have to be somewhat mechanically adept and patient to make sure it bleeds completely. To be fair, while there are plenty of us that could handle it, how many could not and would seriously wreck their posts? I know plenty of people who won't change the bath oil on their fork and that's a WHOLE lot easier than taking the Reverb apart.

Fox is the same way with their rear shocks, they too require precise and complex work to get right.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

kibbs said:


> Pau11y
> 
> Thanks for the hints. The Goodridge M6 is a bit of a pain to get on but an awl to widen the tube a little then begin threading proved to be good. A quick bleed and I am back on with a working post.


Well, you know that hose isn't just going to pop off w/o ripping most of its innards out  :thumbsup:

I see you're using the OE hose. I'm not sure if the cost to bennies ratio of the Goodridge hose is worth it considering how expensive they are. Getting bits is what...$15, whereas 4ft of hose at $12/ft is kinda insane. But I have some spare lengths so may still give it a try.

Pulled mine off the post when I sent it back and still haven't gotten it back on the bike.


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## Psycho Marco (Nov 7, 2008)

Keisersoze said:


> Playing around with the new silver collar that comes with the 2012 edition I've noticed that the barb keeps it from sliding all the way up the post, therefore it seems like if it comes loose or is not secured tight enough it will slam against the already fragile barb when the post is lowered and there's a good change of the barb being damaged. It only slides through when its not aligned with the line of the frame and seat or when its secured by facing the back instead of the front. I won't be using it.


BTW, does anyone knows what´s this silver collar for? actually, does anyone knows what are all the separate pieces that come with the 2012 for? (aside from the bleeding kit)

regards


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

Keisersoze said:


> Playing around with the new silver collar that comes with the 2012 edition I've noticed that the barb keeps it from sliding all the way up the post, therefore it seems like if it comes loose or is not secured tight enough it will slam against the already fragile barb when the post is lowered and there's a good change of the barb being damaged. It only slides through when its not aligned with the line of the frame and seat or when its secured by facing the back instead of the front. I won't be using it.


Yeah - this was my conclusion as well. I also thought that the clamp might score the shaft of the post. So I shoved the silver band in my pack - I'll only use it if the post fails. I had to ride about 15 miles with the seat dropped a couple of weeks ago, and it sucked. Carrying a little bit of aluminum around as a bit of insurance is worth it.


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

Psycho Marco said:


> BTW, does anyone knows what´s this silver collar for? actually, does anyone knows what are all the separate pieces that come with the 2012 for? (aside from the bleeding kit)


Silver collar is, as near as I can tell, used to keep the post in place in the event that it fails. I've had 2 air seal failures in 6 months, so this isn't a hypothetical thing - when the air fails, you wind up with bmx seating - no good half way through a 40 mile ride.

They obviously still have a few design issues they are working through, but that's how it goes with new products (anyone remember the air/oil shocks from 15 years ago? Shudder).


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

Tuff Gong said:


> Well, I just tried working the RH remote on the left side with my X7 shifter and Juicy 7 levers. I'm not too crazy about the shifters position but if I grind away the corner of the downshift lever, I could swing the shifter closer down to normal.
> 
> I'll have a couple of rides before I attempt to grind away...


Try putting the remote inboard of the shifters - at least with the X9 shifters, it nestles quite nicely in there. Activating the remote requires just a little bit of a stretch with the left thumb, but very doable. I'll try to attach a photo of my setup (sorry about the image quality)


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

Anyone know what this little gem is for? Comes with the latest Reverbs...

While I'm at it, there is a screw with a red plastic cap over the threads (there was one in the first Reverb I bought 6 months ago, and there was one in the box with the RMA I just got) - no idea what that's supposed to be for...


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

trumpetinc said:


> Anyone know what this little gem is for? Comes with the latest Reverbs......


It's a spacer for MMX remote, used if you are not integrating SRAM brake levers with the reverb remote.


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## hhuffman (Apr 10, 2006)

*Reverb Very Slow Return*

Hey All,

I just installed my 2011 post, and it is returning very slow even at the fastest return setting. i have seen videos where is shoots up and this is definitely not doing that. Also, if i set it at the slowest return rate, I can't get it to drop at all.

I had it set up by an excellent mechanic so I am confident in the bleed. I have set the air pressure at 250 psi.

Any thoughts?

Thanks, 
Heath


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## Lev (Oct 12, 2004)

hhuffman said:


> I had it set up by an excellent mechanic so I am confident in the bleed. I have set the air pressure at 250 psi.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> ...


Dude, your excellent mechanic probably did not do a proper bleed, or any bleed for that matter.

Watch the videos on how to do it, read the instructions that have been posted on this thread, or just wing it and re-bleed it. I'm a hack of a bike mechanic and even I could do it in less than 20 min. It's easy and if you're an owner of this post, you should learn how to bleed it yourself. I can almost guarantee it will work better post-bleed.


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## vince7870 (Jan 14, 2010)

hhuffman said:


> Hey All,
> 
> I just installed my 2011 post, and it is returning very slow even at the fastest return setting. i have seen videos where is shoots up and this is definitely not doing that. Also, if i set it at the slowest return rate, I can't get it to drop at all.
> 
> ...


Eeeeeeebay!


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## hhuffman (Apr 10, 2006)

I have filled it with Finish Line 2.5 weight shock oil. Do you think the problem could be that it's not the Reverb oil?


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

hhuffman said:


> I have filled it with Finish Line 2.5 weight shock oil. Do you think the problem could be that it's not the Reverb oil?


Why did you use Finish Line 2.5wt? Your Reverb should come w/ everything you need to bleed it, and w/ enough 2.5wt to do like 50 bleeds!?


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## hartwerks (Oct 2, 2011)

Psycho Marco said:


> BTW, does anyone knows what´s this silver collar for? actually, does anyone knows what are all the separate pieces that come with the 2012 for? (aside from the bleeding kit)
> 
> regards


The silver collar is designed to be clamped onto the telescoping shaft of the post to limit travel to a specific amount.

-Also, the little bolt with the red cover on it is designed to hold the shifter on the matchmaker piece that comes in the box and hangs off of the remote clamp, like this:


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## hhuffman (Apr 10, 2006)

Because I bought a demo version that didn't come with the bleed kit. I was able to use my Juicy Bleed kit (kind of) but I needed oil. My LBS has ordered me some of the reverb oil and unless I fund i don't need it, I will rebleed it when the get it in.


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## hhuffman (Apr 10, 2006)

In hind sight I should have bought new from eBay for $244 but this was less than $200 as a demo. Sometimes, "the bull gets you".


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## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

Alright, so I posted up a few days ago about how my Reverbs are basically rad, but I have had a broken barb, I got a new hose kit to handle it but I have been waiting for months to see when and where I can get my hands on that new style barb.

Anyone in the ol' US of A know how to get one, preferably ordering on line? I am basically an hour from a shop I want to deal with. That in and of itself is a a shame, but.....

Whats the word?


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## Psycho Marco (Nov 7, 2008)

trumpetinc said:


> Yeah - this was my conclusion as well. I also thought that the clamp might score the shaft of the post. So I shoved the silver band in my pack - I'll only use it if the post fails. I had to ride about 15 miles with the seat dropped a couple of weeks ago, and it sucked. Carrying a little bit of aluminum around as a bit of insurance is worth it.


Oh that´s what it´s for!

So I still need to figure out what the other separate pieces are for as well:madman:


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

subydoo said:


> Alright, so I posted up a few days ago about how my Reverbs are basically rad, but I have had a broken barb, I got a new hose kit to handle it but I have been waiting for months to see when and where I can get my hands on that new style barb.
> 
> Anyone in the ol' US of A know how to get one, preferably ordering on line? I am basically an hour from a shop I want to deal with. That in and of itself is a a shame, but.....
> 
> Whats the word?


Just get the Goodridge stainless fitting kit for the Avid Elixir (no 111). That M6 and collar for the caliper will do just fine. I've done it w/ Goodridge hose (page 15 of this thread) and someone else has repeated it w/ the OE hose (page 14 of this thread).


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Tested: RockShox Reverb Adjustable Seat Post - Features - Vital MTB


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## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

Pau11y said:


> Just get the Goodridge stainless fitting kit for the Avid Elixir (no 111). That M6 and collar for the caliper will do just fine. I've done it w/ Goodridge hose (page 15 of this thread) and someone else has repeated it w/ the OE hose (page 14 of this thread).


Thanks P, I've had good luck with goodridge stuff over the years and have been thinking about that. I appreciate the kit number, and just so you know I did see those posts about using goodridge with both types of hose.

Still kinda makes me insane that I've seen that new barb available in the UK and Europe, but can't find it here.... Of course with my posts working so well, I better just leave well enough alone.


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## stephengtr (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi - can anyone tell me which way the inside pipe with the little holes at the end goes. Do the holes go up top near the seat or at the bottom?

Cheers Steve


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

FYI, anyone getting a 2012 post might want to check their air pressure if it's acting up. My shop called to get mine warrantied/serviced this week, again. Rockshox is sending out a brand new 2012 to the shop since this will be the second time I've had issues and had to send back the same post. But the CS rep told the shop something along the lines of "you might want to check the air pressure when you get it. Some of the 2012 posts didn't get pressurized fully."

I was stoked enough initially when the post worked that I came across a deal and bought a second BNIB one for my frame coming in January. I sold that one a few weeks ago, and I'll be getting rid of this new 2012 soon as I get it.

I applaud you guys who've had problems and try to sort them out, but I'm done. I got lucky and both times mine failed I was almost done with the ride. But I have ZERO confidence in this post, and it's not worth the risk running this post and failing mid ride or something. 

Sucks, b/c it and/or a dropper post in general is a real game changer. Maybe I will try the KS Lev or whatever when it comes out in January.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

rscecil007 said:


> I applaud you guys who've had problems and try to sort them out, but I'm done.


Me too- sold my warranty reverb- done.
FWIW, My kindshock has been far more reliable, and when I have had problems, I was able to repair them myself. That they offer a 6" drop is icing on the cake.


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

Yeah - my new post (RMAed) was low on pressure when it arrived.


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

Well, I wanted to get a Specialized Command Post Blacklite, but they are (apparently) un-obtainable in the 125mm version so I started looking at the Reverbs.... saw one at an LBS this week and it seemed pretty slick. I've almost made a deal on a 2012 that someone received as an RMA replacement for a 2011 that failed.... This thread is giving me *major* pause about going forward. Sounds like asking for trouble. Does anyone know if SRAM will even honor a warranty to a non-original purchaser, even if product is new-in-box?


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## hartwerks (Oct 2, 2011)

SRAM has had, in my experience, some of the best customer service in the industry. If you have any issues, bring your post into a shop, have them call SRAM, and you will generally get taken care of. I am sure SRAM would back up the quality of a brand new product, regardless of whether or not you are the original owner. That said, I know that this thread seems to outline a number of problems with the Reverb post, but I have found that the Reverb has far fewer problems than any other dropper post system I have dealt with. I would say go ahead and get the post - you will not regret it.


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

hartwerks said:


> SRAM has had, in my experience, some of the best customer service in the industry. If you have any issues, bring your post into a shop, have them call SRAM, and you will generally get taken care of. I am sure SRAM would back up the quality of a brand new product, regardless of whether or not you are the original owner. That said, I know that this thread seems to outline a number of problems with the Reverb post, but I have found that the Reverb has far fewer problems than any other dropper post system I have dealt with. I would say go ahead and get the post - you will not regret it.


Thank you for the response. I'm going to try and contact SRAM directly on Monday and see what I can learn. I'd be somewhat hesitant to bring it into a local shop that carries the post and ask them to contact SRAM about a post that I didn't buy from them. Maybe I shouldn't be.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

SRAM is pretty good about honoring warranties, but I wouldn't count on it in this case. They require proof of purchase to even begin the RMA procedure and I'm not sure they're going to transfer this warranty to you. The RMA process references the original purchase date/receipt, not the replacement. If you're buying this from the shop that handled the warranty claim, you might get them to help you out. If you're purchasing this private sale, then I'd say your chances are pretty slim of it getting warranty support.

I wanted to sell my warranty replacement, but didn't for fear of it being bad out the box and leaving someone else holding the bag. I've since installed it and can best describe this experience by quoting what I once read on a blog about Ferrari ownership:

Wayne and I crack up about each other's misfortunes with the F355(Reverb). It is like having a wife who is a bi-polar, psychotic, nymphomaniac Victoria Secret lingerie model, in a drug rehab program, with multiple personalities, that you happen to fall in love with. Meaning that it can be a tremendous pain in the ass at times, but you know you can't live without it. So you just deal with the various wacked out incidents that happen. When we talk about the F355(Reverb) problems, it is like going to an AA meeting for friends and family of alcoholics. We sympathize with each other, we are our own support group.


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

car_nut said:


> SRAM is pretty good about honoring warranties, but I wouldn't count on it in this case. They require proof of purchase to even begin the RMA procedure and I'm not sure they're going to transfer this warranty to you. The RMA process references the original purchase date/receipt, not the replacement. If you're buying this from the shop that handled the warranty claim, you might get them to help you out. If you're purchasing this private sale, then I'd say your chances are pretty slim of it getting warranty support.
> 
> I wanted to sell my warranty replacement, but didn't for fear of it being bad out the box and leaving someone else holding the bag. I've since installed it and can best describe this experience by quoting what I once read on a blog about Ferrari ownership:
> 
> Wayne and I crack up about each other's misfortunes with the F355(Reverb). It is like having a wife who is a bi-polar, psychotic, nymphomaniac Victoria Secret lingerie model, in a drug rehab program, with multiple personalities, that you happen to fall in love with. Meaning that it can be a tremendous pain in the ass at times, but you know you can't live without it. So you just deal with the various wacked out incidents that happen. When we talk about the F355(Reverb) problems, it is like going to an AA meeting for friends and family of alcoholics.* We sympathize with each other, we are our own support group.*


Car_Nut,

I hear you loud and clear. I already belong to such a group: owners of the much mis-understood and under appreciated Porsche 928 S4/GTS  Maybe that's why I find myself lusting after a Reverb. I'm trying to control myself though. I passed on the 2012 warranty replacement. The idea of saving $50-60 in exchange for no warranty service just isn't worth it. Hopefully I can locate a 125mm version of the Specialized Command Post Blacklite before I get tempted again.  I'd like to think that if the Reverb is the Ferrari of dropper posts, the Blacklite might be the Porsche.... not quite so exotic, but not too shabby either. Italian vs. German.

But I've enjoyed reading this ENTIRE thread and now consider myself a semi-expert, in theory anyway, on the Reverb!


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## raceface_lefty (Sep 11, 2010)

Collected a reverb on Saturday for a new build, sat on it to test it and the return bounced back but no lock out so my post became a 1" suspension post. Took it into the local agent today, they replaced some seals and had it back in 3 hours, lockout seems ok now.

Really good service received from agent but not from LBS.

I would like to change the hose color to match the gear cables and brake hoses, what do I spec for hose? Is avid aftermarket brake hose the one to get? What make is best?


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## kibbs (Jun 8, 2009)

After getting the barb fixed up I was ok for a few rides. While out on a ride a couple of weeks ago I noticed the post being spongy. It would act like a suspension post the seat dropping about 1-2 inches when you sat down.

I tore it off and found the air pressure to be about 50 lbs. So based on this am I seeing the beginning of the end of this post from everyone's perspective?


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

kibbs said:


> After getting the barb fixed up I was ok for a few rides. While out on a ride a couple of weeks ago I noticed the post being spongy. It would act like a suspension post the seat dropping about 1-2 inches when you sat down.
> 
> I tore it off and found the air pressure to be about 50 lbs. So based on this am I seeing the beginning of the end of this post from everyone's perspective?


My crystal ball says you'll be RMA-ing this post to SRAM for a rebuild soon! But hopefully, it's just the seals...


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## presslab (Jan 5, 2007)

I've just received my RMA replacement. SRAM had it for three weeks, supposedly.

2012 model, bleed was good, pressure good too.


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## kjsayers (Jun 5, 2008)

Hey guys. I haven't kept up on reading this post...it has gotten out of control. My question is should I kep the post inside for the winter? Should I store it with the post up or down? I know this may sound silly but I remember hearing some talk about the thing not working after long periods of non use.
thanks guys


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

rscecil007 said:


> FYI, anyone getting a 2012 post might want to check their air pressure if it's acting up. My shop called to get mine warrantied/serviced this week, again. Rockshox is sending out a brand new 2012 to the shop since this will be the second time I've had issues and had to send back the same post. But the CS rep told the shop something along the lines of "you might want to check the air pressure when you get it. Some of the 2012 posts didn't get pressurized fully.".


Had the 2012 for a couple of weeks now. Out of the box, the pressure was definitely low. Pumped it back up to 250, (for anyone else doing this, put the air in with the post at full extension - duh....). A week later, it's low again.

My guess here is that the problem isn't that some 2012 posts didn't get pressurized fully. They probably did get pressurized, but there's a slow air leak somewhere. Time for another RMA, I guess. Sigh...


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## stunzeed (Mar 17, 2007)

What cable are you guys using to replace the flimsy stock hose


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## kibbs (Jun 8, 2009)

stunzeed said:


> What cable are you guys using to replace the flimsy stock hose


I just used the stock one, I see a few others used the GoodRidge hose. I have the GoodRidge on my brakes, is awesome!


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

After 7 months of use, my reverb is finally starting to act up. My normal riding position is about 1 inch from full extension, but if I'm not seated, the post will extend up on its own. Sitting down it will drop that 1 inch. I figure the seals are about blown. I'm not too happy about paying $50 for a seal kit. Does anyone here know the sizes of the seals I need for a rebuild? I figure I could pick them up from the same place people use to buy seals for their fork rebuilds as opposed to buying rebuild kits.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

I'm amazed people are still buying this post. If your post is still working after one season it comes down to one thing - LUCK!


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

Laterilus said:


> After 7 months of use, my reverb is finally starting to act up. My normal riding position is about 1 inch from full extension, but if I'm not seated, the post will extend up on its own. Sitting down it will drop that 1 inch. I figure the seals are about blown. I'm not too happy about paying $50 for a seal kit. Does anyone here know the sizes of the seals I need for a rebuild? I figure I could pick them up from the same place people use to buy seals for their fork rebuilds as opposed to buying rebuild kits.


Check the air pressure. With the post fully extended, it should be 250psi. Keep in mind that your pump will bleed off pressure as you first connect it (and the air chamber in the reverb isn't very big, so the bleed off will be big). Here's the procedure I use:

Connect pump, note the pressure (let's say it comes in at 200psi)
Pump the post up to 250psi
Disconnect pump
Reconnect pump - note the pressue (let's say it comes in at 220psi)

With the numbers above, you can determine that your pump draws off 30psi. So the original reading of 200psi should be adjusted to 230psi.

Bear in mind that temperature can impact the pressure - lower temps mean lower pressure - so you may find that adding air is all you need as the weather turns colder.

I also recommend that you do a full system bleed (videos on the RS website are pretty good - be sure you do the full system video, and not just the remote bleed).

If those two things (air and hydraulic bleed) don't help, then you should RMA your post. I wouldn't dink with changing seals/etc... yourself - that is SRAM's problem if they can't create a product that lasts more than 7 months, not yours. SRAM's customer service on these posts is exceptional (they know they have some issues they need to resolve, and they are working it).


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

*286 hours on my Reverb*

I installed the Reverb on 10/3/2010. I've now put 286 hours of use on it and it is still working well. Equates to taking it out 216 times for a 1:19 ride average. I ride in the PNW where dust is only an issue about 3 months out of the year.

I don't ride the seatpost at full height and put fox fork oil on the seat tube frequently, along with keeping the seals clean.

I log all my rides including the minutes rode, so I can get a fairly good idea on when maintenance needs done and how long products are lasting. Currently, I have 132 hours on a set of Nevegal tires, which is getting some fairly good use out of them.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Trumpetinc, thanks for the advice. I'll check both of those things. I wasn't considering bringing it in to be warrantied by SRAM because I figured blown seals after a season of use would be typical, but I guess not? How long do you think they should last before it is reasonable to do the seal replacement yourself? Lastly, I'm not up on this 'RMA' acronym. I've searched recent posts for someome to spell it out but to no avail. Can you explain?

Lastly, has anyone bled their seatpost with another manufacturer's 2.5 wt. Oil? My little bottle leaked all over and is empty so I picked up some fast lane. I couldn't find any RS for a reasonable price. I figure though they are all the same.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

The seals that are failing are not considered user serviceable by SRAM. I'm guessing they're standard o-rings, but you risk voiding the warranty trying to change them. I haven't seen the pricing for replacing the internal cartridge, but I'm guessing it's enough to consider the post totaled if it fails. A couple pages back someone mentioned digging into the cartridge and having some success overhauling it themselves. I'd say if it's under warranty, send it back. 

RMA: Return to Manufacturer Authorization. Most companies don't want you just mailing random stuff to them. You need to call and start the process and they'll assign an RMA number that is to be displayed on the package. This allows them to route it internally without wondering what it is. It's irrelevant in this instance since SRAM won't deal directly with the public.


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

My second reverb took a **** today! yay! lol i dont know what to do i love the crap out of it but am i going to have to get a new one every year?


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

Hey, one a year is pretty good. I'm about to warranty post 3 in the last nine months.


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

Man this sucks its not looking good! are the 2012 post any better?


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

Laterilus said:


> Lastly, I'm not up on this 'RMA' acronym. I've searched recent posts for someome to spell it out but to no avail. Can you explain?


Sorry about that - I'm tossing jargon around. Basically, what I mean is that you should take the post to a local bike shop that supports SRAM products (doesn't matter if you bought it there or not) and ask them to send it back to SRAM for warranty work. This shouldn't cost you anything (when the LBS signs up to rep SRAM, they agree to do this sort of thing - but remember that this is something they aren't making money on, so be cool about it, and make sure you tell them how much you appreciate it). A shop would be expected to charge labor to take the post off the bike for you, or bleed it, so take it off yourself.

Most parts have at least a 12 month warranty, and I wouldn't be surprised if SRAM extended that quite a bit given how many problems they've been having. SRAM isn't in the business of having a ton of pissed off users - they do want to create a great product that everyone loves. Sending the post in for warranty allows their engineers to do failure analysis and figure out what needs to be tweaked.


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## nord1899 (Aug 29, 2011)

So originally had the barb fail on mine, got that fixed and the post was fine. This weekend, after putting about 100 miles on the bike since the fix, it failed again. Haven't had a chance to give it a good look and see what happened. Barb is intact (its the newer version). But if I hand lift the seat to its highest position, and then put any weight on it, I can hear air rushing out somewhere as the seat somewhat slowly lowers down.
Fortunately this was on the return leg to the car, nearly all downhill at Bearclaw Poppy in Utah. And likely my last ride of the season as its time for snowboarding.

Still a bummer though.


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## hhuffman (Apr 10, 2006)

I have a generation 1 post, was never able to get mine set up properly without some oil leaking and neither was my shop. Rock Shox has taken it in and we'll see what they do with it. Would be nice if they send me one of the new ones. Fingers crossed.


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

Hey, anyone knows of a good mudguard for those running their Reverd all the way in the frame? My Blur LTC has no place to attach one, and obviously I can't tie one to the seat post stanchion. I wonder if there is a mudguard that would fit around the silver nut, or the saddle. Everything I tried has been utter failure. TIA.

P.S. I'm one of the lucky ones. Over 3,500 miles on a gen 1 with no issues whatsoever. Still using the original flimsy hose and barb. Just an initial bleed is all I did. Just so people know some of these do work.


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## raceface_lefty (Sep 11, 2010)

raceface_lefty said:


> Collected a reverb on Saturday for a new build, sat on it to test it and the return bounced back but no lock out so my post became a 1" suspension post. Took it into the local agent today, they replaced some seals and had it back in 3 hours, lockout seems ok now.


The repair lasted 10 days, 90 mins into a 3 day stage race the post collapsed completely, no air pressure and no hydraulic pressure which spewed out down the inside of the seat post. Luckily I had the 2012 collar to convert it to a rather heavy fixed post.

No worries though about enjoying the ride.

At the end of the race the local agent took all of 7 minutes to replace the post with a 2012 week 42 production unit with black collar rather than the silver of the 2011 I must have owned.

Great service, hopefully the Reverb performance will now match the service experienced. The collar has become like a rear hanger, never leave home without it!


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

I saw reverb posts with an aluminum cap, black, round, 2" long over the seatpost end hose barb that replaced the rubber thing that basically did nothing, at a SRAM 2x10 event.

I think my Reverb just finally broke in. Wasn't as hard to lower as it was in the past 2 months. I thought it had to do more with my ASR7's really slack seat angle causing it to be really sticky lower it. This also kind of worries me though.

Just installed one ('11) on my XC FS bike to replace a dying Joplin. Don't really have any poor expectations, despite what I've read in this thread.

I always liked SRAM for their customer service, which is the biggest difference between them and other companies. They don't automatically assume the customer is a retard that doesn't know how to properly install their parts, doesn't own a torque wrench, or whatever. Maybe that's why I'm not really worried.


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## The R (Apr 12, 2010)

Mine blew out the other day, after only about two months of riding. I'm typically not hard on parts at all, and I rarely have problems with anything, so I thought I might be one of those lucky ones who would have no problem with this post. Nope. I'll send it in for the warranty. Rock Shox gets one more chance with this, then I'm switching to a Command Post.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

The R said:


> Mine blew out the other day, after only about two months of riding. I'm typically not hard on parts at all, and I rarely have problems with anything, so I thought I might be one of those lucky ones who would have no problem with this post. Nope. I'll send it in for the warranty. Rock Shox gets one more chance with this, then I'm switching to a Command Post.


I hope you don't think those are without issue! My LBS that handles my SRAM warranties is a Specy dealer, and guess what he said....yep. Many problems too.

I've also heard the Specialized Command Post is made by KS.


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## sanokano (Jun 2, 2009)

*3 strikes ?*

Well just got my 3rd replacement post but not looking forward to installing it this is another new replacement but was made 7 weeks earlier than the last post which lasted 5 rides, i don't see how sram can keep replacing these units, is there any news officially from them ? does anyone know where to buy the seals ? this is what happened to my last two they would not hold pressure . i will say though when it worked it was nice ! :madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman:


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Varaxis said:


> I think my Reverb just finally broke in. Wasn't as hard to lower as it was in the past 2 months.


That "broken in" feeling is the same mine had right before it felt "broken". I'm pretty sure it was because it had started leaking air which made it much easier to move down. Hopefully yours doesn't follow the same path.


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## The R (Apr 12, 2010)

CharacterZero said:


> I hope you don't think those are without issue! My LBS that handles my SRAM warranties is a Specy dealer, and guess what he said....yep. Many problems too.
> 
> I've also heard the Specialized Command Post is made by KS.


Actually, when I went to to buy a dropper, I asked the guy at the shop about the Command Post, and you're right, he said he's seen issues and actually recommended the Reverb instead. That's why I went with a Reverb.

So maybe there is no magic answer yet. But lately it seems like the Blacklight Command Post has been much improved -- or at least have been getting better online reviews (which I always take with a grain of salt).

My plan is to replace the reverb. If it bonks, as quickly (and for no apparent reason) as the first one did, I'll replace it with something else. Can't hurt. I'll just ride warranty to warranty.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

19 pages of broken Reverbs... what a product!


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## ratpick (Mar 24, 2008)

Penny said:


> 19 pages of broken Reverbs... what a product!


If it wasn't so great when it works, there wouldn't be 19 pages. The design is evolving - the newer models look much more robust.

I just got mine back (broken barb) and looking forward to riding with it again.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

ratpick said:


> If it wasn't so great when it works, there wouldn't be 19 pages. The design is evolving - the newer models look much more robust.
> 
> I just got mine back (broken barb) and looking forward to riding with it again.


Well said!

Honestly, I installed my 4th Reverb Saturday morning before a ride. It is so smooth, consistent and just right that I was smiling within minutes of having it back on the bike. Such a HUGE part that I don't enjoy riding as much without it. Sucks for me, but that is the truth. I think I'd rather have one of these than rear suspension if forced to choose - the flow of my riding is that effected.


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## SFChristo (Mar 9, 2010)

*'nother failure*

My four month old Reverb just failed as well.


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

So people who have warrantied their posts recently, did you get a 2012 product back?


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

half_man_half_scab said:


> did you get a 2012 product back?


I sent a 30.9 x 420 back in the end of September and received a 2012 in complete retail packaging for replacement.


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

half_man_half_scab said:


> did you get a 2012 product back?


Yep - got a 2012, the complete package, including bleed kit, etc...

And the darned thing leaks air (rggggg). Not much - I can get a week's rides before filling it up. As soon as the ride schedule lightens up, I'll be sending it back again.

Frustrated that they'd ship something that was broken out of the box, but not willing to live without the post - it makes *such* a difference to the ride.


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

Excellent, that means I can make a profit of $50 or more for my year of beta testing


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## erosive (May 15, 2009)

So sorry to all that had issues, i feel for ya.
I , on the other hand, have had a year and a half on the original post without issue.
Not sure if i'm doing something right, or just got lucky, but its been great.


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## SoCalXCRider (Oct 2, 2010)

*8.5 months/1500 miles before Reverb air leak*

I've ridden pretty hard on this thing, using it for 1500 to 1600 miles in the last 8.5 months. Air leak failure on Thanksgiving morning up in the Santa Ana's, on the upper Joplin trail of all places. Sort of ironic. Very few falls and not abused (in my opinion), hydraulic remote has been flawless and I haven't had to bleed it except when I messed with the cable. Until it failed it was totally reliable and was exactly what I want in an adjustable post. Now we'll see how The Path and SRAM handle the issue.


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## hhuffman (Apr 10, 2006)

I never got my 2011 reverb working so my shop sent it in for me, long story short, SRAM lost it and sent me a brand new 2012. Although I haven't ridden it yet, seems crisp as hell. Chalk one up for them owning up to losing it and having a new one to me in a week. My suggestion is to have your shop send it in rather than going RMA.


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## Andrew8404 (Nov 20, 2011)

This thread makes me depressed! I want one so bad yet it sounds like I'll be lucky if it works.


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## Hikers Only (Oct 18, 2010)

So after 11 months my Reverb decided it did not want to wor anymore. Took it to my LBS who contacted SRAM and now 1 week later I have a brand new 2012 already hooked upto the bike and it's woking NICE!


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Laterilus said:


> Trumpetinc, thanks for the advice. I'll check both of those things. I wasn't considering bringing it in to be warrantied by SRAM because I figured blown seals after a season of use would be typical, but I guess not? How long do you think they should last before it is reasonable to do the seal replacement yourself? Lastly, I'm not up on this 'RMA' acronym. I've searched recent posts for someome to spell it out but to no avail. Can you explain?
> 
> Lastly, has anyone bled their seatpost with another manufacturer's 2.5 wt. Oil? My little bottle leaked all over and is empty so I picked up some fast lane. I couldn't find any RS for a reasonable price. I figure though they are all the same.


RMA= Return Merchandise Authorization


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

I just happened to order one of these posts.....2012 model. This forum has now terrified me. I was reading the manual online and it said the following....

Important: DO NOT attempt to adjust air pressure using the air valve located at the bottom
of the seatpost. Any change in the factory air pressure setting will render the seatpost
inoperable, requiring full service..

By checking the pressure when you receive your post are you in essence breaking it? I know your supposed to bleed it right out of the box but beyond that I know nothing much about them technically. I am curious as to why changing the factory pressure would require a full service? Any thoughts as it seems most of the people in the forum have adjusted the air pressure?


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## nord1899 (Aug 29, 2011)

jzdyrko said:


> This forum has now terrified me.


Remember, people make posts significantly more when things go wrong versus when things go right. Could easily have a person who got a bad Reverb out of the box, RMA'd it, got a new one, and then went thousands of miles with zero issues. But only posted about the bad initial one, no follow up about the flawless replacement.

So take everything online with a grain of salt.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

I think it's more like he's scared that he doesn't have sufficient knowledge or understanding and the "mystery" involving the issues worries him, due to his uncertainy. I bet he's more likely to approach a product he has less knowledge of (but a more certain favorable opinion, such as a Thomson post) than the Reverb, due to knowing there are so many dealing with issues and others with varying luck. He prob sees the Reverb as a gamble rather than see this thread as an informational one that lets people who are interested in one know all about it and how to make the best use of it, keeping it in good working order.

IMO, knowledge is power. I'd rather go in with more knowledge, aware of such issues and knowing how to deal with them, than go in with something a mystery to me and no knowledge of how to deal with issues if they do pop up.


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

jzdyrko said:


> I just happened to order one of these posts.....2012 model. This forum has now terrified me. I was reading the manual online and it said the following....
> 
> Important: DO NOT attempt to adjust air pressure using the air valve located at the bottom
> of the seatpost. Any change in the factory air pressure setting will render the seatpost
> ...


I had SRAM support explicitly tell me to check and adjust the pressure in the shock. No idea why that warning is in the manual, but it's bunk.

Just make sure the post is in the full extended position BEFORE you attach the shock pump to it (otherwise it'll almost certainly destroy your pump). The pressure should be 250 psi when the post is extended. At full compression, the pressure will be way higher. Unless it's my current post, which slowly leaks air every 2 weeks - but the riding season is in full swing and I'm not willing to return it yet (plus I want to wait until they actually fix whatever design problem is causing this) :madman:


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Varaxis said:


> I think it's more like he's scared that he doesn't have sufficient knowledge or understanding and the "mystery" involving the issues worries him, due to his uncertainy. I bet he's more likely to approach a product he has less knowledge of (but a more certain favorable opinion, such as a Thomson post) than the Reverb, due to knowing there are so many dealing with issues and others with varying luck. He prob sees the Reverb as a gamble rather than see this thread as an informational one that lets people who are interested in one know all about it and how to make the best use of it, keeping it in good working order.
> 
> IMO, knowledge is power. I'd rather go in with more knowledge, aware of such issues and knowing how to deal with them, than go in with something a mystery to me and no knowledge of how to deal with issues if they do pop up.


I wanna know if I should double check the pressure to make sure it's 250lbs when I get it or should I just bleed it and go from there. I guess I will just wait and see......I still want to understand how changing the pressure in the post would "render the post inoperable"....Putting the valve on the bottom of the post and telling us not touch it is like giving a piece of candy to a kid and saying don't eat it!


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Imagine the people who don't fully understand mattress material content tags. 

Just check to see if it works properly, going down easily enough and returning back up quick enough. If it's too hard to push down, it might be better with less air, unless it's just "break-in" stiction. Too slow to come up and the remote barrel adjuster doesn't help enough, you might need more air. That warning is just there to give caution to those who don't know what they're doing, as too much air can blow the seals out, especially if they use a high volume air source. I wouldn't be so obsessed about having 250psi on the dot. It's like tire pressure or shocks, the best gauge for some people is their hand or simply riding, but it's convenient to know what the exact number it is, to dial it in easier.

You don't necessarily need to bleed it out of the box either. I have a '11 30.9 reverb that I put on my ASR7 that didn't need a bleed, even after cutting the hose. The '11 31.9 reverb I put on my Superfly 100 did require a bleed though (poor button feel; couldn't actuate post with button depressed), so I shortened the hose and did a "partial bleed process", just to fill it back up and get a little air out rather replace the fluid.

Seems like you're stressing the details before the post even reaches in your hands. I'd like to bet at least 80% of reverb owners never put an air pump on their reverb's valve.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Just bleed it and go. Don't try to fix it if it isn't broken.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Varaxis said:


> Imagine the people who don't fully understand mattress material content tags.
> 
> Just check to see if it works properly, going down easily enough and returning back up quick enough. If it's too hard to push down, it might be better with less air, unless it's just "break-in" stiction. Too slow to come up and the remote barrel adjuster doesn't help enough, you might need more air. That warning is just there to give caution to those who don't know what they're doing, as too much air can blow the seals out, especially if they use a high volume air source. I wouldn't be so obsessed about having 250psi on the dot. It's like tire pressure or shocks, the best gauge for some people is their hand or simply riding, but it's convenient to know what the exact number it is, to dial it in easier.
> 
> ...


I think I am just over Anxious as I am getting my first full suspension bike in less than 2 weeks with the reverb........I guess I just like to hear myself talk to much


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

car_nut said:


> Just bleed it and go. Don't try to fix it if it isn't broken.


You're DOING IT wrong! Fix it until it breaks, then warranty it for a 2012! :thumbsup:


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## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

*Exposed seat post required?*

I have had my Reverb for six months with no issues except a chewed up barb collar at the post. The 125mm travel Reverb requires 7 3/4" of exposed seat post at full extension. (measurement from top of seat tube collar to seat rails) I looked at the previous 6 pages of this thread and cannot find info on the 100mm Reverb.

Does anyone know how much exposed seat post is required for the 100mm Reverb? I am guessing it is 6 3/4" required but wanted to ask to be sure.

Thanks,


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## mtb-ripper (Jul 30, 2010)

Well,

8 rides in on my post and there is a good 1/8 of play for/aft already. Super noticeable while riding, but has not made it inoperable...yet. Going to see how long it lasts before i need another...


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

RockShox Reverb - Tested - Pinkbike.com

For what it's worth.....a seemingly good review


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

jzdyrko said:


> RockShox Reverb - Tested - Pinkbike.com
> 
> For what it's worth.....a seemingly good review


And now I understand how the damn thing works.......mystery is gone. Now if December 10th would come so I could have my new bike and post.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Pau11y said:


> You're DOING IT wrong! Fix it until it breaks, then warranty it for a 2012! :thumbsup:


 I'm usually a fan of completely disassembling my new parts just for fun. All of my new forks have been broken down completely before the steerer tube was even cut. But with this thing? There's nothing inside it to fix without voiding the warranty. The process with my Reverb has been:

Install
Ride
Be happy 
Be unhappy
Warranty
Repeat


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## schulzeee (Mar 11, 2011)

After my reverb failed and two weeks after my LBS received it a brand new reverb (2012 I assume) was provided. But my confidence was shaken, and my desire to NOT do bleeds and such led me to buy a Gravity Dropper. It helped that my LBS took the replacement reverb and gave me a full credit. Now after using the GD for twice as long (72 vs 36 rides) I can say I love the reliability of the GD and miss the beautiful function of the Reverb.


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## Prunetucky (Apr 17, 2005)

*Echos of my Reverb wah wah wahhhhhh....*

Don't think I'll ever do without a dropper - 'cept when the Reverb is in for repair:
1. LBS put it in the stand and crushed the fluid fitting under the seat. repaired.

2. then a flop between trees, the nose of the seat hit hard on a fallen tree and the seat post started spinning inside it's mechanism in just one direction. I figured that the lil centering palls (saw'em on the video) got twisted out of their slots. So I twisted the seat hard / counter rotation a few times and they have been seated since (30 rides no prob.)

I've noticed the little rubber fitting over the fluid fitting under the seat rubs/hits on the polished collars when the seat is fully dropped. Well yesterday it sheared the fitting off! LBS ordering parts.

Reverb is still loose fore and aft, creaks... but not gettin worse.

I do not look forward to servicing it! the video makes it look 3x more complicated than say a Vanilla service...

i've had the dropper about 5 mos.
P.Tucky


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## drew911 (Dec 19, 2009)

Guys, what is the length 350mm ? Is it a size of full expanded seatpost to rails ?


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

drew911 said:


> Guys, what is the length 350mm ? Is it a size of full expanded seatpost to rails ?


I would assume yes, 350mm is 13.78", the full length of the post


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## drew911 (Dec 19, 2009)

jzdyrko said:


> I would assume yes, 350mm is 13.78", the full length of the post


Many thanx! Now i realize, he'll fit my frame. Gonna buy it


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

The exposed portion from the saddle rails down to the bottom of the post's collar is only 185 or 187mm... (for the 125mm extension post).


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## opiants (May 15, 2011)

Aside from weight, would there be any real disadvantage if I get the 420mm and just bury the extra 40mm?


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## Fix the Spade (Aug 4, 2008)

opiants said:


> Aside from weight, would there be any real disadvantage if I get the 420mm and just bury the extra 40mm?


Nope.

With one proviso, that being you have enough seat tube on your frame to swallow that much post. Check with a cheapo 400mm post first, there's lots of frames with bottle mounts, tube butting, suspension hardware and other horrors hiding down deep in the seat tube.


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## opiants (May 15, 2011)

Fix the Spade said:


> Nope.
> 
> With one proviso, that being you have enough seat tube on your frame to swallow that much post. Check with a cheapo 400mm post first, there's lots of frames with bottle mounts, tube butting, suspension hardware and other horrors hiding down deep in the seat tube.


Yep, I have a 400mm seat post atm w/c I can push down all the way to the bottom. Frame specs tell me that I have a 17.5 seat post height but measured only +-425mm when I checked it. The reason for this is lbs has the reverb 420mm and 355mm in stock but not the 380. I *want* the 125mm travel so the 355mm is no good.

I push my 400mm post all the way down during descents.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

opiants said:


> Yep, I have a 400mm seat post atm w/c I can push down all the way to the bottom. Frame specs tell me that I have a 17.5 seat post height but measured only +-425mm when I checked it. The reason for this is lbs has the reverb 420mm and 355mm in stock but not the 380. I *want* the 125mm travel so the 355mm is no good.
> 
> I push my 400mm post all the way down during descents.


How much post do you have exposed when its fully extended is the real question. If you have at least 7.5 inches exposed from collar to the rails on your bike normally, then the 420mm should work. If the 125mm post is 420mm long, that is about 16.5". At full extension the exposed portion is about 7.5". That would leave roughly 9" of post inserted into the seat tube. With the post fully dropped, you are not really dropping 420mm into your seat tube, the exposed post is dropping inside the portion within the seat tube.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

My big complaint after riding it for a few months: the remote doesn't function very well as a matchmaker clamp. I had to mount it separately from my brake lever and shifter. It was usable where I like my shifter and lever, in matchmaker mode, but it's much better closer to my thumb, as I don't have to stretch my reach as much. Plus, now I can run my shifter/brake lever a little loose in case of a crash. It was annoying having the remote as matchmaker, since the shifter completely blocked the main bolt for the clamp and the remote blocked the shifter bolt a bit and if it became looser than you like (like after a crash), where using shifter and remote moved the entire thing...


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## opiants (May 15, 2011)

jzdyrko said:


> How much post do you have exposed when its fully extended is the real question. If you have at least 7.5 inches exposed from collar to the rails on your bike normally, then the 420mm should work. If the 125mm post is 420mm long, that is about 16.5". At full extension the exposed portion is about 7.5". That would leave roughly 9" of post inserted into the seat tube. With the post fully dropped, you are not really dropping 420mm into your seat tube, the exposed post is dropping inside the portion within the seat tube.


I have only 5.5in of post exposed when fully extended. Do you think it will still work?


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

opiants said:


> I have only 5.5in of post exposed when fully extended. Do you think it will still work?


From the collar to the rails on the 125mm Reverb measures about 7.5". If you only have 5.5 inches exposed to the rails on your standard post, the reverb will raise your seat roughly 2 inches higher. The 100mm reverb I would assume is about 6.5"inches exposed which would still be taller than what you are looking for, that is unless you can raise your seat another inch and still fit comfortably.


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## opiants (May 15, 2011)

jzdyrko said:


> From the collar to the rails on the 125mm Reverb measures about 7.5". If you only have 5.5 inches exposed to the rails on your standard post, the reverb will raise your seat roughly 2 inches higher. The 100mm reverb I would assume is about 6.5"inches exposed which would still be taller than what you are looking for, that is unless you can raise your seat another inch and still fit comfortably.


2in should be fine. That's all I need anyways. Are there any issues when not using the reverb's full extended height?


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## Andrew8404 (Nov 20, 2011)

Just got the 2012 Reverb from Jensons for 240. So far on my first ride she's been smooth as can be! Here's hoping I don't run into issues!

---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=34.042471,-117.235791


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

opiants said:


> 2in should be fine. That's all I need anyways. Are there any issues when not using the reverb's full extended height?


I can only slam my '11 380mm 30.9 Reverb into my ASR7 until it's about 1/2" between the bottom of the collar and the seat clamp. I'm not sure what prevents it from being able to be slammed all the way, maybe the bend in the seat tube. At full extension, it's a bit of a stretch, so I end up riding with it at maybe 1" lower than max for pedally sections, which I find is perfect. Been on it like that for months without issue. I'm not familiar with the internals, but don't think it's under more stress if it's not at max extension, with you sitting and maybe bouncing on it. I absolutely love the infinite adjustability for allowing me to find my favorite seat height for long term comfort and efficiency. I've only tried the Joplin (3") before, but this Reverb has been solid and smooth feeling, which gives me practically no complaints and no desire to try anything else. I'm liking the zero-offset a lot more too.

Check out the 100mm 355mm length '12 version. I've seen others that reduce the drop amount by using a clamp on the upper, but I think this version actually is downsized to not need that clamp to be considered a true 100mm and not a modded 125m.

---

$240 for a '12 Reverb at Jenson? How'd you get that deal?


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## Andrew8404 (Nov 20, 2011)

$240 for a '12 Reverb at Jenson? How'd you get that deal?[/QUOTE]

They price matched it from an online store that was selling it for 229.00. It might have been a 2011 which is why it was cheaper. But Jensons gave me the '12! Gotta love that store!

---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=34.042380,-117.235755


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## opiants (May 15, 2011)

Varaxis said:


> I can only slam my '11 380mm 30.9 Reverb into my ASR7 until it's about 1/2" between the bottom of the collar and the seat clamp. I'm not sure what prevents it from being able to be slammed all the way, maybe the bend in the seat tube. At full extension, it's a bit of a stretch, so I end up riding with it at maybe 1" lower than max for pedally sections, which I find is perfect. Been on it like that for months without issue. I'm not familiar with the internals, but don't think it's under more stress if it's not at max extension, with you sitting and maybe bouncing on it. I absolutely love the infinite adjustability for allowing me to find my favorite seat height for long term comfort and efficiency. I've only tried the Joplin (3") before, but this Reverb has been solid and smooth feeling, which gives me practically no complaints and no desire to try anything else. I'm liking the zero-offset a lot more too.
> 
> Check out the 100mm 355mm length '12 version. I've seen others that reduce the drop amount by using a clamp on the upper, but I think this version actually is downsized to not need that clamp to be considered a true 100mm and not a modded 125m.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I've been actually keeping an eye on that 100mm until it became out of stock.

EDIT: So the 420mm w/ 125mm length will just be fine for me right?


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

opiants said:


> Thanks. I've been actually keeping an eye on that 100mm until it became out of stock.
> 
> EDIT: So the 420mm w/ 125mm length will just be fine for me right?


If you can slam a 400mm into your frame now, then the 420mm would fit fine because you're not actually inserting the full 420mm into the frame


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

I haven't kept up lately on this thread but my Reverb has recently developed the one inch of squish at the top of the stroke. From my reading of the thread I recall that this means the air seals inside the post are shot/leaking.

I've viewed the SRAM video on replacing these seals and it looks a bit complex but doable.

I bought my Reverb used off the mtbr classifieds so not expecting any warranty. My question is, has anyone done this rebuild themselves and is it reasonable for a semi-proficient do-it-yourself mechanic?

Or should I just send it to SRAM.... or are there other places that service them (Like Dirt labs or PUSH)?


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## nord1899 (Aug 29, 2011)

Try your LBS and see what they say about warranty. Might get lucky. Might waste 10 minutes of your life.


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

nord1899 said:


> Try your LBS and see what they say about warranty. Might get lucky. Might waste 10 minutes of your life.


My local bike shop is not listed as a dealer according to the SRAM site. Next closest is 200miles away.

I may still check with them anyway though. The manager is a friend. Couldn't hurt.


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## kroe (Mar 30, 2009)

Picked up a used reverb that wouldn't hold air. Took it apart, and the thread in cap that seals off the "not serviceable" top portion had come partially unscrewed. That was the cause of the not holding air problem..

While I was in there I figured I'd clean everything. Finished unscrewing the already loose cap to the non serviceable portion (at the time didn't know it was a factory service only section of the post). Out came a bunch of oil. Looked up the service info, and found that it didn't go into that portion of the post. Others in this thread reported that SRAM won't provide oil volume or IFP depth. Crap.

Nothing to lose, time to figure it out. Read pinkbike's writeup on how the reverb works and thought it through. Stuck the outer tube that holds the small air piston into the top tube where the post head lives (drilled holes facing away from post head). With the post extended the inner tube is filled with oil, and the outer filled with air (on the "down" side of the IFP). With the post compressed the inner tube is filled with air since the tiny piston slides all the way up the tube, and the oil moves to the outer tube. Figured that extended the outer tube should be nearly all air to make room for the oil that would be displaced into it when the post compresses. 

Based on this thinking, I took the inner tube that is wedged into the post head tube, slipped the IFP onto this tube and slid it all the way down, making the outer tube completely air filled to start. Filled the inner tube with oil as full as I could while leaving room for the tiny piston, and screwed the cap on (let it sit upright for a few minutes to gravity bleed before doing the cap). Needed to push the button for a sec while screwing it down to let some oil get displaced from the inner tube to the outer, making room for the piston to move down enough for the threads to tighten down. 

The result was a mostly air filed outer tube, completely oil filled inner tube. Put the post back together, and it works perfect. 

No idea if this is what SRAM does, or if their oil levels would somehow be different. This does work though. Give it a shot if you have a borked reverb. Anyone know what the newly listed reverb IFP tool and oil level tool do?

Took about an hour and a half including staring at the diagram and thinking. Could do it again in 20 minutes.

Enjoy


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## N0Mad (Oct 5, 2008)

Cool, respect for reverse engineering! 
Do you have any ideas after having seen the internals of the Reverb why it looses its travel and begins to bounce as a shock post? And if smth could be improved to prevent that? (maybe tighter seals on the pistons, etc.)
Thanks.


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## kroe (Mar 30, 2009)

My guess is that the shock post effect happens when air gets into the oil side of the ifp. Could happen due to ifp seal issues. Didn't SRAM say they redesigned the piston at some point?


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## chillindrdude (Jan 21, 2004)

anyone have a reverb stealth in hand?


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## stockracing (Oct 27, 2011)

Just got a 2012 Reverb, should the post extend when picked up by the saddle when the seatpost is not at it's fully extended position? I thought reverb does not do this.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

My 2012 REVERB does the same thing......they probably changed something with it. It doesn't take much force at all, and if you release it after you pull up on it it returns to the dropped height.


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## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

stockracing said:


> Just got a 2012 Reverb, should the post extend when picked up by the saddle when the seatpost is not at it's fully extended position? I thought reverb does not do this.


That was my understanding as well and mine 2012 is hit and miss: sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't.

All in all, I have had mine for about 5-6? months now and no issues. I had to cut the hose and no bleed was required to keep it working.

The only two concerns I have had are that mine was only pressurized to about 150psi which i found out later that I wasn't supposed to touch that...oh well...

The second is that the locking ring on the lower of the seat doesn't stay tight. I haven't torqued on it, as i am worried about damaging it by overtightening.

All in all, not one major issue. ( Did I just jinx myself??)


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

stockracing said:


> Just got a 2012 Reverb, should the post extend when picked up by the saddle when the seatpost is not at it's fully extended position? I thought reverb does not do this.


Makes me want to go see if anyone else has a '12. Actually, I saw one at a SRAM demo and don't remember that. I can do that with my '11, but it takes significantly more force to pull it up, more than the weight of my bike at least.


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

stockracing said:


> Just got a 2012 Reverb, should the post extend when picked up by the saddle when the seatpost is not at it's fully extended position? I thought reverb does not do this.


NO! There is an air leak problem with a lot of the 2012's. They arrive grossly underpressured (if that's a word). Extend the post fully, then put in the recommended 250psi, and it'll work properly.

My experience is that the darned things leak over 3 or 4 weeks, and have to be re-inflated. I'd return it right away, but I'm waiting for them to hopefully fix the problem before I go through the hassle.

One of these days, I intend to submerge the thing and figure out where the leak is coming from. It may be that they just have a bad set of schraeder valves or something (although given the number of people with this problem, it seems like it's more likely an inner seal problem of some sort).

I've pumped mine up about 5 times now - it works great once it has enough air in it.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

trumpetinc said:


> NO! There is an air leak problem with a lot of the 2012's. They arrive grossly underpressured (if that's a word). Extend the post fully, then put in the recommended 250psi, and it'll work properly.
> 
> My experience is that the darned things leak over 3 or 4 weeks, and have to be re-inflated. I'd return it right away, but I'm waiting for them to hopefully fix the problem before I go through the hassle.
> 
> ...


Besides being able to pull up on the post, my 2012 works great. It raises and lowers on a dime with no issues at all....knock on wood. I think I will wait for it to really break before I worry about sending it away as being able to pull up on it doesn't affect its performance.


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## GoGoGordo (Jul 16, 2006)

GravityDropper Adjustable Height Seatpost
I'm just sayin.


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## KootenayKuz (Oct 14, 2011)

I just finished installing my 2011 Reverb. I wrote out my steps on my blog (MTB Riding) below. Hopefully that will save someone some time. Let me know if you think I should add something.

Also, for those loosing Reverb faith, all telescoping seatposts seem flaky. I did an online review of the main ones (check out my blog). None of them had 5 nines of uptime, if you know what I mean.


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

My bike has been sitting for a couple months and when I rode it yesterday, the remote button would not press in. Frozen solid. Did a full bleed and it is still stuck. Won't press in at all, seat post won't move. Anyone have a solution to this? It is like the unlock mechanism in the post is frozen...


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## sonypete (Jun 15, 2008)

nord1899, hit it on the head. I'm posting just because most people don't come back after their initial post issues.

My first post lasted me about 2 months and I had to get it warrantied. I have been ridiing my second post for around 7months now and still going strong without any servicing. I did slap some slick honey under the silver collar but that's it.

Granted this post has had issues. The failure rate isn't 99% so don't scared to pull the trigger on this post. Rockshox has awesome customer service.

I can't imagine riding without an adjustable seat post. It allows me to kill myself on the uphill climb and in an instant descend from that same mountain like a screaming banshee.

Cheers,
Pete


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

Has anyone had theirs stuck in the UP position? I can't even press in my button--frozen solid. I did a full bleed, still frozen (the button barely presses in). It is like the mechanism in the post froze up for sitting for a couple months--any advice?

Sorry about the double post--my view wasn't set to linear so I didn't see it...


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

mountaindavis said:


> Has anyone had theirs stuck in the UP position? I can't even press in my button--frozen solid. I did a full bleed, still frozen (the button barely presses in). It is like the mechanism in the post froze up for sitting for a couple months--any advice?
> 
> Sorry about the double post--my view wasn't set to linear so I didn't see it...


Could it be that the hydraulic line isn't fitted over the remote barb correctly? The very small plastic inner hose that carries the fluid within the hydraulic line, a light translucent blue colored hose, covered by some woven lining and then the outer plastic housing, might not have gone over the outside of the barb, instead plugging up the open end of the barb while the outer housing was "forced" over the outside. That would cause the fluid in the remote to have nowhere to go, due to being plugged up. Ever notice any kind of moisture coming from that end of the housing if you pressed hard on the remote? That would hint that might be the problem. Usually happens to people who trim the length of the hydraulic line and don't cut the cable cleanly and/or don't widen the opening of that inner hose with a scribe before installing it.


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

Thanks for the idea, Varaxis, but with the syringe on the post, the button easily pushes fluid out--so the hose is running smooth. And I put the hose on and I am beyond careful with that sort of stuff. I just packed it up to send it in...


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## zachattak (Jan 10, 2012)

*hilo!!!*

heard they broke too often... bought an xfusion hilo for durability over weight savings. Hasnt failed yet.


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## Midle Age Warrior (Nov 13, 2006)

KRob said:


> My question is, has anyone done this rebuild themselves and is it reasonable for a semi-proficient do-it-yourself mechanic?


I will do it tonight, gonna take some pics, and if everything goes right I will post the results


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## stoneyfromgermany (Jan 11, 2012)

i think the reverb is good but the fitting on the seatpost broken to lightly.


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

Midle Age Warrior said:


> I will do it tonight, gonna take some pics, and if everything goes right I will post the results


Thanks man. Let us know how it goes.


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## Midle Age Warrior (Nov 13, 2006)

*Reverb internals service*

Disclaimer:
I can not be responsibly by what do you do, so use the following information at your own risk.
I did a service of the Reverb seat post internals in order to fix the loose of firmness and travel of the seat post, I had the best intention of documenting this but as I was getting in business the thing comes nasty and oily so grab the camera was an issue .
First I follow the Sram video to replace the seals in order to get into the internals, what I found was a a partially unscrewed what I will call "under cap" and an offender o ring also miss placed.
Crappy phone pics










then after deflate the system I took the undercap and all seals out



















went to a seals shop with the samples on hand and bought a set of new ones (note that what I call "piston head" seal is an oring, I decided to replace it with a quadring instead, since I thought this could work best in this case IMHO.
At this point is important to explain how things works here as far as I could guess, first of all, the remote is isolated from the main system, the remote actuate a valve that allows the oil flow from the piston tube (a cylinder inside the upper tube of the seat post ) to the upper tube by a port hole, pushing down an internal floating piston that runs in between the two tubes already mentioned before, that keeps the height and firmness of the system, when the seat post is unloaded and the remote is pressed the valve opens and aided by the pressurized air, the IFP is pushed up and the oil returns to the piston tube and the seat post extends itself (sorry for my english, but is hard to explain, I hope you can get it).
Here is come the tricky part , since the oil comes out due to the faulty oring and disassembly process I had to refill the system.
After I put back all the seals covered with oil, I pushed the IFP all the way down (seat post upside down and remote pressed) using a wheel spoke










then I filled up with oil the called piston tube until the top (i will loose some oil due to an air port located near the top) then carefully insert the piston into the piston tube using the remote to allow some oil pass trough the valve so the piston can travel in, just enough to screw back the under cap see the next picture.










From here I just put everything back together again, add pressure to the system and it is working, of course since this is the first time I did this to this level it will be under observation in the near future but I think it is gonna be fine.
Since I am not in the states and this is not a matter that can be issued under factory warranty, I decide to give it a try to save a $300 part instead of throwing it away.
I hope this could help to you guys in case you need it, althouhtg the best way must be send the unit to the factory


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## dauwalt (Mar 26, 2005)

BaeckerX1 said:


> *Shortening Line:*
> You should already have the remote mounted to your bike and the cable routed how you want it at this stage. If you are shortening the line, dial the barrel adjuster all the way to the slowest setting. Remove the line from the remote. The instructions in the SRAM link below say to cut a slit in the cable and then pull off, but I had problems cutting the cable. I used pliers and was able to gently pull the cable off the barb without much trouble. The barb will stay on the remote, so no need to worry about barbs and olives like hydraulic brakes.
> 
> Measure and cut the cable to the desired length with a proper cable cutter that won't crimp the hose. Make sure to leave enough cable for your handlebars to completely turn both ways without pulling the cable out of the lever. Hold cable vertical when cutting and plug end with finger to ensure you don't spill any oil. You should have oil up to the end of the cable. Reattach cable to barb of remote. You should be able to push it all the way on with your fingers. If you have problems, wrap a rag around the cable and use pliers to push the rest of the way on without crushing or gouging the cable. Turn the barrel adjuster to the highest setting. Work the seatpost and remote. You should now have fast return like expected.
> ...


Just picked mine up. Had to shorten the cable, and followed the above. Did it in a snap, no problems. Works like a champ, and enjoy the ability to adjust on the fly. Good first impressions.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

i have had my 2011 version for 2 months, riding 2-3 times a week and not an issue with it


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## mountaindavis (Jun 18, 2010)

Well, I won't be able to tell you all what my cause was--I called my online retailer that I used and they told me to send it to them and they will send me a new one (which is in the mail now). Bought it in 2010, get the 2012. So I rode it for a year and a half without a single issue, had one issue and they are immediately fixing it. That, my friends, is why I like Sram. Great product, great customer service.


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## The Thug (Nov 16, 2006)

My 2012 Reverb got delivered today, fitted it this evening but checked the psi and made sure it was as close to 250psi as possible beforehand.

Cable tied everything, fitted the saddle, pressed the lever in and......... Nothing!

So shortened the hose and will have to bleed the system tomorrow. Hopefully, that's the only problem.


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## ratpick (Mar 24, 2008)

The Thug said:


> My 2012 Reverb got delivered today, fitted it this evening but checked the psi and made sure it was as close to 250psi as possible beforehand.
> 
> Cable tied everything, fitted the saddle, pressed the lever in and......... Nothing!
> 
> So shortened the hose and will have to bleed the system tomorrow. Hopefully, that's the only problem.


Yeah, I think all new Reverbs need the remote bled. Quick to do, fortunately.


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## opiants (May 15, 2011)

ratpick said:


> Yeah, I think all new Reverbs need the remote bled. Quick to do, fortunately.


It doesn't need a remote bleed if it works. Even if you shorten the hose, you won't need to bleed it if you do it right.

Just a heads up. If the post won't fully extend, try to loosen your seat clamp. Overtightened seat clamp can cause the reverb not to fully extend.


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## The Thug (Nov 16, 2006)

Did a full bleed and then a lever bleed and I now have a working adjustable seatpost.


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## denjen (Jan 30, 2004)

I broke the barb at the seat post and replaced it with the new updated version. After bleeding the system the post rebounds slower that before. I used to run it with 1 full turn in from full fast. Now I have it at full fast and it returns slower. Any ideas what might cause this? Could I have over filled the system.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

I've had my 2011 for one year now. My very first one broke in 1 week. I got a brand new one from SRAM through my LBS a week later and it has been great ever since. I've needed to bleed it a couple of times along with filling the air chamber back up twice as well, but so far so good for 1 year.

Lately I've noticed that I have a bit of fore/aft play. I'm a big guy at around 240lbs so this seat post has seen some stress. I'm wondering if it is a bushing problem? Do you think I could have worn the bushings in just one year's time? I was just going to buy the cheap rebuild kit that is seals only, but I noticed a couple of bushings are included in the more expensive rebuild kit. Unfortunately, the bushing in the silver collar is not servicable and only comes with a new collar. Before I dump a lot of money into fixing this thing, has anyone else come across this problem and fixed it?


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## OxBender (Feb 19, 2012)

*Reverb Rotation*

Hi folks--first post on these forums (hiya!) . . .

ANYWAY, after crashing on bitumen yesterday in the Kona Odyssey (in Forrest, Australia), my Reverb (2011) which has always behaved quite well now has some rotation. It's not 'play', but it will rotate if you put your hands on the seat and twist (or large legs and butt and pedal). The piece that inserts into the frame remains steady (so that bit is not loose in the frame)

I couldnt' find anything in this thread or anywhere else on how to 'retighten' it, if that's possible, and also what the 'zero' position is on piece in the frame (e.g., Rock Shox logo exactly facing backwards) for the bottom bit in the frame (the bit below the top cap as they call it in the manual). I mistakenly loosened my seat post binder bolt to rotate the whole assembly into position after the crash, having assumed that this was the bit that moved in my haste.

Does the 'top cap' bit tighten and loosen?

Everything works fine, otherwise!

OxB


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## jubilee (Apr 16, 2004)

Installation and first ride report, reverb 2012, knolly endorphin.

The post sat on my kitchen table for a few days before installing. I couldn't resist, and compressed/extended it quite a few times. Put it on the bike and wouldn't extend all the way. Bled it, tons of air expelled, still wouldn't extend all the way. Checked the pressure, 180 psi. Pumped up to 250psi, works like a charm.

First ride and I'm a convert. Best upgrade to the mountain bike in a long time. Stoked.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

So it looks like I probably need a rebuild. I've had mine for a year now so I'm not displeased considering it has worked so well through many hours of abuse. I have the fore/aft play like I previously mentioned and now my post drops about 10mm when I sit on it after it is fully extended. I've checked the pressure and it is holding 250psi just fine. My guess is my seals are worn out. My LBS called Rockshox and they are suggesting the full $45 kit rebuild because the fore/aft play is coming from the 3 keys being worn out. I would have assumed it was the bushings. I'd rather buy the cheaper, seals only kit. Anyone else being told the same thing that the keys wear out?


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Hey Reverb owners, 

Looks like I'm going to hold onto my rebuild kit just for a little bit.... Today my 2011 version finally bit the dust. I'm pleased, it lasted for a full year. It's been getting somewhat spongy for the past couple of months with a slow air leak. I recently got a new bike a month ago and my bike shop put my Reverb onto my new bike. I was standing next to the mechanic as he filled up my Reverb with air. He had noticed it was getting slow while returning to full height, so he bled it, then checked the air. I noticed his pump said 190psi. That's about normal when I put my shock pump on the Reverb. I wish I would have watched him pump it up, but I didn't. Here's why: A week ago, my Reverb started acting up again. I re-bled it, then checked the air. when I put my shock pump on my Reverb, it registered 300psi!!! Did my lbs mechanic fill up my Reverb to over 300psi, or can the Reverb somehow gain pressure when the IFP seals or whatever start going bad? I know that sounds ridiculous, but I thought I'd check. Anyways, I dropped the pressure down to 250 where it should be, and my Reverb went back to normal, but it still is a bit spongy. Today on my ride, I was seated and climbing and I felt a 'pop' under my butt. Reverb dropped completely without me touching the button. I raised the saddle back up, sat back down, and down the Reverb went. It can no longer hold me up. I went home to try and pump it back up but it won't hold air. I also noticed a lot of oil splashed around the schrader valve on the underside of the post.

If I'm reading the previous posts correctly, this has something to do with the IFP, correct? I'm assuming the oil I saw was coming from inside the air shaft? I really don't want to dig into my post, and it appears that some of you are getting this fixed via warranty? The rebuild kit that RS sells won't fix this problem if I'm reading the previous posts correctly. Please confirm if you know. Thank you.


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## wizard604 (Jul 10, 2011)

Laterilus said:


> .....it appears that some of you are getting this fixed via warranty? The rebuild kit that RS sells won't fix this problem if I'm reading the previous posts correctly. Please confirm if you know. Thank you.


If I remember correctly the Reverb has a 2yr warranty or something like that. Check w Rockshox or your LBS before you attempt a rebuild on your own. You should be covered.


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## billysan (Oct 11, 2008)

Does anyone know if the hardware used in the 100mm drop post is the same as the 125mm drop version? If it is, and its maximum extension is restricted, would the extra overlap at full extension lead to greater reliability? (Less stress on seals and bushes)

Im interested as Im yet to dip a toe into the dropper post market, but having just booked a trip to the Alps now might be the time to try one. I would be able to get away with either (ie the 100mm drop or 125mm drop), but given the _seemingly_ high failure rate on these, I would be prepared to sacrifice 25mm for reliability.

I would be buying a new 2012 probably, therefore will have a warranty to fall back on. I'd just rather not have to go down that route if I can really help it.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Don't know if the internal seals (the ones RS doesn't want you to touch) are more strained by a longer extension post. Personally, I would think the outer seals and bushings (the ones that come in the rebuild kit) would be the parts under excess strain the more extension the post has. 

In other news, I took my Reverb to my LBS and they gave RS a call. My post was considered defective and they are sending a new one. I should have it Thursday or Friday. I'm assuming they'll replace my defective 2011 with the 2012. Is it true the 2012s have less problems with the internal seals or have others here had to send in their 2012 for the same problems I was having?


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## stebi (Jul 6, 2007)

I want one. Sa them on a killer half price special on speedgoat.
Did not make it in time though. They sold out almost instantly.


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## mmanuel09 (Nov 26, 2008)

Hey everyone. Need help with replacing the push loc remote button. We have a new kit but does not come with any instructions nor is there any manuals on the sram website. Has anyone replaced the button on their remote? Any information would be greatly appreciated.


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## Calhoun (Nov 11, 2008)

mmanuel09 said:


> Hey everyone. Need help with replacing the push loc remote button. We have a new kit but does not come with any instructions nor is there any manuals on the sram website. Has anyone replaced the button on their remote? Any information would be greatly appreciated.


SRAM Service | SRAM

click on the "Rockshox Spare Parts Catalog-2012" it has an exploded view of the Reverb remote. Might be able to piece it together using that diagram.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Hey all, I have to hand it to SRAM's customer service. I brought my post to my LBS this past Monday for warranty and SRAM had a new 2012 to me by Friday. That was a much better turnaround than what I was expecting. In addition, they sent the entire post package. I was only expecting to get a new post and hook up my old remote, but they sent everything! My old remote was already threaded through the internal routing on my frame so I just left it on. I now have a spare, brand new remote and hose! 

My 2011 post lasted just about a full year. I'll be curious how long the 2012 version lasts, but so far, so good.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Just ordered the 2012 Reverb post, 31.6 x 420, 125mm drop. So stoked!!

Was on the fence about the purchase, but with the money saved going with a RS Revelation RLT 140 29er vs. the Fox 34 Float, I can upgrade myself to a dropper post this season!!

Can't wait!! :thumbsup:


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## mmanuel09 (Nov 26, 2008)

Calhou - Yup got it. Just printed out the page. Thanks... I'm sure I'll have to re bleed the lever. Hoping I won't have to re bleed the whole system or taking the lever off the hose. I've broken a barb before and didn't think about getting that kit.


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## playdead (Apr 17, 2009)

hey guys. Quick question. 

Trying to figure out if the Reverb post is long enough in the fully extended position. 

I've got 12" showing on my seatpost now. Will the reverb be long enough in the extended position? Can't seem to find where the "minimum insertion" line is located.

Thanks!


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## Diesel~ (Feb 17, 2008)

playdead said:


> hey guys. Quick question.
> 
> Trying to figure out if the Reverb post is long enough in the fully extended position.
> 
> ...


If you are talking about the longer post (420mm), it is 12" from the limit line to the bottom of the bonded head (just measured mine). From there it is about another inch from the bottom of the head to the center of the seat rails, for a total of ~13". Sounds like you'll be fine.

-D


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## playdead (Apr 17, 2009)

Diesel~ said:


> If you are talking about the longer post (420mm), it is 12" from the limit line to the bottom of the bonded head (just measured mine). From there it is about another inch from the bottom of the head to the center of the seat rails, for a total of ~13". Sounds like you'll be fine.
> 
> -D


Awesome! Thank you


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## Haran (Oct 6, 2011)

BaeckerX1 said:


> *User Submitted Specs*
> *Actual Weights:*
> 30.9/380 - 522 grams (tscheezy)
> 30.9/420 - 565 grams (scottg)
> 31.6/380 - 537 grams (mitja)


_*31.6/420 - 599 grams (Haran) (Reverb 2012 model)*_


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

I picked up a 2011 Reverb in the beginning of January for a killer deal from my local bike shop. Last week the post was supper slow, so I checked the air pressure, and did a full bleed. It was still slow on full fast and locked out on full slow. Took in into the shop, they couldn't figure out what was wrong with it so they said they would call Sram. I just got a call back, Sram is sending out a new 2012 post. The failure bummed me out a little, but I am stoked at the Sram customer service. Hopefully the 2012 is more reliable, and thanks to Sram I will have a 2012 for a great price.


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## Haran (Oct 6, 2011)

[Reverb 2012]
I expected titanium screws to fasten the seat above the seatpost (like my Syntace P6 Carbon). They are steel made


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## billysan (Oct 11, 2008)

Haran said:


> [Reverb 2012]
> I expected titanium screws to fasten the seat above the seatpost (like my Syntace P6 Carbon). They are steel made


Oh come on. If it did come with titanium bolts they would be jumping up and down making big noises about it. Not too expensive to upgrade either if you're that offended.


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## Haran (Oct 6, 2011)

The seatpost seat fixing system is very similar to my Syntace P6 carbon... a quite perfect fix. My Syntace P6 doesn't make noises. I understand that weight saving will be a few grams. But my bike has no steel parts at all, ;-) and this helps to lower the weight significantly. So I expected titanium bolts in relation to the high price of the seatpost. But, eventually, of course, is not that important to me ... the important thing is that the seatpost works well.


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## billysan (Oct 11, 2008)

So I decided to go for a 2012 5" 420mm model, have it sat in front of me at the minute.

What is the general feeling about checking and adjusting the air pressure out the box? It sounds like a few have low pressure in, but it also quite clearly states in the manual not to touch this!

Function seems perfect at the minute (admitedly off the bike) so am not sure whether to fiddle!


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

billysan said:


> So I decided to go for a 2012 5" 420mm model, have it sat in front of me at the minute.
> 
> What is the general feeling about checking and adjusting the air pressure out the box? It sounds like a few have low pressure in, but it also quite clearly states in the manual not to touch this!
> 
> Function seems perfect at the minute (admitedly off the bike) so am not sure whether to fiddle!


mount it up (with that friction paste, not grease) and don't route the hose. see if it works, then fiddle if necessary!


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

I have had my 2012 Reverb since the end of December. So far I have had zero issues with the post. It has worked flawlessly for me. Being that I am a big clyde at 325lbs, I guess so far I am one of the lucky ones...knock on wood. I have put almost 400 miles on the post through rocky and root strewn trails. I definitely could not live without it as a part on my bikes going forward.


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## billysan (Oct 11, 2008)

CharacterZero said:


> mount it up (with that friction paste, not grease) and don't route the hose. see if it works, then fiddle if necessary!


Cheers,

but is the general view to check and top up the pressure or leave it alone?


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

I'd just go with the wisdom that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

On that topic, don't butt the bottom of the seatpost on the ground or the palm of your hand to test it and actuate it up and down out of the bike (to be able to compress the post easier). There's a vent hole on the bottom and if that doesn't get a decent amount of air to work with, I fear that the post gains some complications with air pressure. Could be a coincidence, but it's still not a good idea to do.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

CharacterZero said:


> mount it up (with that friction paste, not grease) and don't route the hose. see if it works, then fiddle if necessary!


Is the friction paste really necessary? I've sat on my Reverb on the Honzo once or twice now when building up the bike, still not complete lol, Should I be ordering some?


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

I used grease, cause I don't have anywhere else more convenient to clamp the bike into my repair stand and don't want to clamp onto the stanchion and cause unnecessary wear and pressure on the hose/hose barb by routing it out of the way so sharply. I've seen what some bike shops have done to others.

Some other posts are sensitive to clamping force at the seat binder, acting up if you clamp too tightly. The Reverb seems to have more tolerance, in that aspect, at least compared to the Joplin.

I run the Reverb pretty much slammed out into my seat tube anyways, so no worries about it slipping.


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## jdspins9 (Mar 6, 2012)

This was one of my single greatest purchases last season. I can't explain how beneficial the reverb is and I absolutely love the infinite drop positions. With that said there are a few challenges. The external mount under the seatpost is tricky when placing on standard 2-4 buckhorn style bike racks. You need to wrap or protect the male/female connections well as they aren't very tough. I have been informed that the new model has a metal housing connection which is much stronger than the previous rubber/plastic connection. Remind your local bike shop that it's there if they are putting in a stand. Both myself and my cousin have had the lines accidentally cut/split from irresponsible mech's clamping it into a stand! Lag time from Rock Shock was brutal for replacent housing/lines...1 month to receive. Regarding the left hand reverse and under bar setup; I don't run it that way but several of my friends do without any concerns. It actaully help protect the remote when you crash and the positioning is nice for the left thumb.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Varaxis said:


> I used grease, cause I don't have anywhere else more convenient to clamp the bike into my repair stand and don't want to clamp onto the stanchion and cause unnecessary wear and pressure on the hose/hose barb by routing it out of the way so sharply. I've seen what some bike shops have done to others.
> 
> Some other posts are sensitive to clamping force at the seat binder, acting up if you clamp too tightly. The Reverb seems to have more tolerance, in that aspect, at least compared to the Joplin.
> 
> I run the Reverb pretty much slammed out into my seat tube anyways, so no worries about it slipping.


Thanks for the explanation, just ordered some Finish Line friction paste on Amazon, saved myself a trip to the LBS. Better safe than sorry with these posts.


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## Wanny (Jul 30, 2011)

Is there somewhere that we can get more detailed measurements of the 5" travel 380mm version? I am not sure that it would fit on my straight-up geometry and I would like to verify it.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Wanny said:


> Is there somewhere that we can get more detailed measurements of the 5" travel 380mm version? I am not sure that it would fit on my straight-up geometry and I would like to verify it.


How much exposed post do you have currently on your bike. I have a Trek scratch air which has a similar geo to your bike with a 75 degree STA. I can give you the measurements. I have a 5" 31.6 380mm post. Exposed length from full insertion to rails is approximately 7.25" so you'll need at least that amount exposed on your current post to get full extension.


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## absoluteczech (Sep 22, 2009)

sorry for the newb question, do you predefined height settings you can set? is there a way to have it also return to the exact same height or do you need to stand up and let it rise until its in the ballpark?


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## Diesel~ (Feb 17, 2008)

absoluteczech said:


> sorry for the newb question, do you predefined height settings you can set? is there a way to have it also return to the exact same height or do you need to stand up and let it rise until its in the ballpark?


There are no predetermined height settings in either direction, though you can set the return so that it is slow enough that you can stop it part way up by letting go of the actuation button. You are going by feel at that point.

-D


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## Wanny (Jul 30, 2011)

BigJZ74 said:


> How much exposed post do you have currently on your bike. I have a Trek scratch air which has a similar geo to your bike with a 75 degree STA. I can give you the measurements. I have a 5" 31.6 380mm post. Exposed length from full insertion to rails is approximately 7.25" so you'll need at least that amount exposed on your current post to get full extension.


Yes I measured earlier that I have about 210-220mm from saddle rails to frame on my highest sitting position. So if your 7.25" (~184mm) is accurate, I still have a good 1" of free length. It's getting tight, but it should be alright.

Thanks a lot for this measurement! That is exactly what I needed.


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## absoluteczech (Sep 22, 2009)

Diesel~ said:


> There are no predetermined height settings in either direction, though you can set the return so that it is slow enough that you can stop it part way up by letting go of the actuation button. You are going by feel at that point.
> 
> -D


thank you


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

Left or right hand lever? Are there two different levers, or do you just configure the lever the way you want. I want to mount the lever upside down on the left side.

Thanks.


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## wisopp (Mar 14, 2012)

Hi, I removed my rock shox reverb, all, now is not how much oil has, or viscosity. Please if anyone knows assemble and speak Spanish. Do not quite understand what he explains, thanks and greetings.


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## Hikers Only (Oct 18, 2010)

happyriding said:


> Left or right hand lever? Are there two different levers, or do you just configure the lever the way you want. I want to mount the lever upside down on the left side.
> 
> Thanks.


Then you will need to get the right hand lever so when you mount it upside down on the left it will point towards the hand. I have the same configuration and I love it!


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

rednova75 said:


> Then you will need to get the right hand lever so when you mount it upside down on the left it will point towards the hand. I have the same configuration and I love it!


Thanks for the response.

When I inquired at JensonUSA about where to indicate which lever I wanted, I was told the lever clamp could be flipped/swapped, which I was pretty sure was incorrect. I don't know which lever JensonUSA ships with their Reverbs; it doesn't say anywhere:

Rockshox Reverb Seatpost 125mm '12 > Components > Saddles and Seatposts > Seatposts | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop


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## 5 Star Bomb (May 8, 2010)

Any help on this would be great.

How do I transport my bike with a reverb. Normally I attach a saris Beam to my bike and attach it to my Saris bones trunk rack on my SUV. I read somewhere that you cant put any upward pressure on the bike via the seatpost. Cant even attach it to a workstand. Any advice before I buy? Thanks


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

5 Star Bomb said:


> Any help on this would be great.
> 
> How do I transport my bike with a reverb. Normally I attach a saris Beam to my bike and attach it to my Saris bones trunk rack on my SUV. I read somewhere that you cant put any upward pressure on the bike via the seatpost. Cant even attach it to a workstand. Any advice before I buy? Thanks


Just actuate the post to it's lowest position, then use your seatpost quick release to extend the post and clamp as normal.


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## 5 Star Bomb (May 8, 2010)

CharacterZero said:


> Just actuate the post to it's lowest position, then use your seatpost quick release to extend the post and clamp as normal.


Just to clarify.. I am not clamping the seatpost like a bike stand. The beam is like a claw that attaches around your stem in the front and the under the seat in the back. The bike is being supported in the back under the seat so their is upward pressure on the seatpost.

Is this still ok to do.

I appreciate your help, just wanted to clarify you understood my dilemna.

Thank you


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

5 Star Bomb said:


> Just to clarify.. I am not clamping the seatpost like a bike stand. The beam is like a claw that attaches around your stem in the front and the under the seat in the back. The bike is being supported in the back under the seat so their is upward pressure on the seatpost.
> 
> Is this still ok to do.
> 
> ...


Ah, I thougth it clamped the seat tube, not the seat.

UPward pressure on any air (ie: not coil&oil) seatpost is NOT recommended.


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## Daniel Soh (Jul 13, 2011)

5 Star Bomb said:


> Just to clarify.. I am not clamping the seatpost like a bike stand. The beam is like a claw that attaches around your stem in the front and the under the seat in the back. The bike is being supported in the back under the seat so their is upward pressure on the seatpost.
> 
> Is this still ok to do.
> 
> ...


I have the Saris beam and a Reverb Stealth, thinking of fabricating a Velcro panel 5-6" width and 10" height, so even when I clamp the beam on my bike, the weight of the bike would be on the beam instead of the seat post, because the Velcro panel would be wrapped around the mid portion of the beam and my bike top tube.

This might work.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

On that topic, I've noticed that a bike can take more damage from being transported than being ridden for some people. Better to have more points of support, to spread the load of being rattled and swung around by the Gs from turns and accelerating and vibrations and bumps from rough uneven road surfaces that are transferring to the bike. I've seen some loose hubs develop on bikes who have wheels locked down on platform style racks and scratches a plenty on pick-ups beds--no need to mention the scratches from other styles. It seems platform styles that have an additional hold on the front triangle, in addition to both wheels, are the best for the bike, or maybe the ones that clamp the fork dropouts.


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## 5 Star Bomb (May 8, 2010)

Daniel Soh said:


> I have the Saris beam and a Reverb Stealth, thinking of fabricating a Velcro panel 5-6" width and 10" height, so even when I clamp the beam on my bike, the weight of the bike would be on the beam instead of the seat post, because the Velcro panel would be wrapped around the mid portion of the beam and my bike top tube.
> 
> This might work.


I thought of that too. I guess thats the best option. Thanks for the input


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## wizard604 (Jul 10, 2011)

5 Star Bomb said:


> Any help on this would be great.
> 
> How do I transport my bike with a reverb. Normally I attach a saris Beam to my bike and attach it to my Saris bones trunk rack on my SUV. I read somewhere that you cant put any upward pressure on the bike via the seatpost. Cant even attach it to a workstand. Any advice before I buy? Thanks


I have a similar setup using the Thule bike adapter bar. The bar goes under the seat & around the stem and the whole weight of the bike is supported by the bar.

I contacted Rockshox about this & they said it was ok to do this. I also store my bikes using the same adapter bar to hold the bike on a rack. It's been about 6mos and no issues either of my 2 bikes that have the reverb.


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## dabe (Apr 4, 2008)

*Thank you!!*

I bought a used Reverb and it lost air after 3 rides! I was so bummed.

I took it apart last night and found the same issue as "Midle Age Warrior" (partially unscrewed "under cap").

I used the same method described in his recent post and put it all back together (I did not replace anything, but cleaned everything and replaced the oil). It is working great!

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread!

BTW, I broke the cable on my Command post the day after the Reverb stopped working, so unreliability is not just a problem for the Reverb...


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## wisopp (Mar 14, 2012)

Hello someone could do a manual on how to change the oil to the rock shox reverb, thanks.


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

rednova75 said:


> Then you will need to get the right hand lever so when you mount it upside down on the left it will point towards the hand. I have the same configuration and I love it!


It didn't work for me. I'm running 2012 Shimano XT brakes(M-785) and XTR M-985 shifters, and there is no room for the remote on the left. The best I could do was mount it about 3 inches inboard of my shifter and brake, and that means it is too far away to reach. Here are some pics:


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

I can't mount the remote outboard of the brake and shifter because the remote's speed dial extends to the right, and there is not enough room. I would have to slide my brake and shifter inboard so much, I wouldn't be able to reach them.

In addition, my 2012 Reverb wouldn't work. It lowered fine, but then it wouldn't raise up.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Make sure you didn't over tighten the clamp.


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## amc717 (Sep 15, 2011)

wizard604 said:


> I have a similar setup using the Thule bike adapter bar. The bar goes under the seat & around the stem and the whole weight of the bike is supported by the bar.
> 
> I contacted Rockshox about this & they said it was ok to do this. I also store my bikes using the same adapter bar to hold the bike on a rack. It's been about 6mos and no issues either of my 2 bikes that have the reverb.


I'm also currently using a Saris beam bar to transport my bike around. And the concern about breaking the reverb is holding me back from getting it.

Just wondering if there is a possibility of the cable (I'm referring to the cable and its connector on the seat post) being hit by the beam while transporting and eventually gets broken?


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

BigJZ74 said:


> Make sure you didn't over tighten the clamp.


The seatpost clamp wasn't the problem. It doesn't matter--it's getting returned.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

happyriding said:


> It didn't work for me. I'm running 2012 Shimano XT brakes(M-785) and XTR M-985 shifters, and there is no room for the remote on the left. The best I could do was mount it about 3 inches inboard of my shifter and brake, and that means it is too far away to reach. Here are some pics:


thats how mine is mounted (right hand, mount on left upside down) and reach isnt bad..u get use to it


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Hey all, I've been riding my warranty Reverb for about 6 weeks now and have come across a problem that I don't think has been mentioned before on this thread. I've read every page over the past 1 1/2 years, but I have to admit, I might have missed it. I had a semi-nasty crash the other day and noticed my saddle had turned when I picked up my bike. Assuming it had spun in the seat tube, I loosed the clamp, straightened my saddle, then reclamped. The next day I'm riding I notice my saddle keeps rotating back and forth while I'm riding. Now I know for sure it isn't the seat tube clamp. It appears that the extension portion of the seat post is now rotating inside the lower portion of the seat post. Hooray. I go home taking apart the seatpost assuming I have shredded the brass keys. Everything looks normal. I can't figure it out. I put it all back together and it is still doing the same thing. Upon further inspection I notice the head of the seat post (the portion that clamps onto the saddle rails) is rotating! I grab the saddle and turn it clockwise. I'm able to make it tight and all is well. I noticed on Pinkbike's review of the Reverb that the head of the seatpost does indeed thread into the moving part of the seatpost. On a side note, it seems like this gives Rockshox the option to thread in a different head so it could be a setback post... that would be sweet for me. 

Anyway, after I put everything back together and the head is screwed on tight, I notice that my post is returning slowly. I re-bleed it, still slow (about half full-speed while in full speed mode on the remote). I bleed it again, same thing. I've had a Reverb over a year now and I know how to bleed it properly. I've sped up my Reverb many times over by doing a bleed and checking the pressure. Both are done correctly. So, there are a couple of options here that I think caused this and maybe one of you can help me out. First, I noticed when I was bleeding the hose there were a couple of small black rubber bits in the line. I was going through the motions and stupidly pushed them back into the line while bleeding. I wanted to take off my syringes and clear them out then get back to bleeding, but I wasn't paying attention and pushed them back in before I thought about removing them. Unforunately, they never came back into my syringe while bleeding. I figure they are from a small seal in the remote line that is breaking apart. Could this cause a restriction and not allow the valve to open all the way and thus, my seatpost speed be affected? If so, how would I clean that crap out? Anyone ever do that?

Secondly, I noticed that the valve of the seatpost is located inside the head of the post (the portion that unscrewed on me). There is a small snap ring underneath the portion that holds the rails of the saddle. I didn't remove it fearing that I would have delved too far into the IFP area and then really had a mess on my hands. Has anyone gone into this area of the Reverb? Could I have messed up something with the valve by tightening down the seatpost head? I also wonder if the bits of seal rubber made to this part. That would be hard to clean out, but I guess I could get to it if I removed that snap ring, but again, I don't want to unless others here have and can explain this area of the seatpost. Anyone with ideas, I'm all ears.


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## jabberwocky (Sep 9, 2004)

My Reverb died on me this past week while on vacation in Fruita. I got it for christmas, so about 4 months old (mfged in mid-2011 though). On the last morning of riding, it developed some vertical play, then went down and stayed there. I can pull the post up and down by hand and it stays where left, and air hisses out the bottom. Seems like the air seals blew.

Knowing their stellar reputation for reliability, I had the foresight to bring my thomson with me. So I swapped it on and continued riding.

Hopefully it won't take long to get it repaired. And hopefully its a bit more reliable when it comes back; 4 months is not impressive for how expensive these things are.


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## MockTurtle (Apr 14, 2009)

happyriding said:


> It didn't work for me. I'm running 2012 Shimano XT brakes(M-785) and XTR M-985 shifters, and there is no room for the remote on the left. The best I could do was mount it about 3 inches inboard of my shifter and brake, and that means it is too far away to reach. Here are some pics:


haven't tried it yet (waiting for my reverb to arrive)... but if you remove the optical display of your FD (its only three speeds at most anyway) you can then clamp it to sit outboard of your brake lever.
this way perhaps you can move the reverb switch a bit closer?
hope this works as this is how am planning to install mine


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## nord1899 (Aug 29, 2011)

jabberwocky said:


> My Reverb died on me this past week while on vacation in Fruita. I got it for christmas, so about 4 months old (mfged in mid-2011 though). On the last morning of riding, it developed some vertical play, then went down and stayed there. I can pull the post up and down by hand and it stays where left, and air hisses out the bottom. Seems like the air seals blew.
> 
> Knowing their stellar reputation for reliability, I had the foresight to bring my thomson with me. So I swapped it on and continued riding.
> 
> Hopefully it won't take long to get it repaired. And hopefully its a bit more reliable when it comes back; 4 months is not impressive for how expensive these things are.


Basically how mined failed, fortunately on the ride back to the car down Bearclaw Poppy.

Took it to my LBS. They contacted RockShox. About 2 weeks later, I got a new in box replacement.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Ok, small update: I was able to fix my Reverb. I decided to remove the hose barb from the remote and bleed screw from the post. I put an air blower nozzle on my compressor and blasted air through the hose to the post. I put a rag in front of the bleed port on the post to collect any of the rubber particles that it may have dislodged. Sure enough, I collected a few. I also cleaned out the remote and remote hose barb to make sure I covered everything. I put it all back together and gave it a fresh bleed. The post is super fast again. Just wanted to let you guys here know in case anyone else has had this problem.


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

MockTurtle said:


> haven't tried it yet (waiting for my reverb to arrive)... but if you remove the optical display of your FD (its only three speeds at most anyway) you can then clamp it to sit outboard of your brake lever.
> this way perhaps you can move the reverb switch a bit closer?
> hope this works as this is how am planning to install mine


.
I don't have an optical display on my XTR shifter. At the base of the remote, there is a cone that extends to the right and the cable extends out of that. There is no room for the cone and cable when the right hand remote is mounted underneath the bars on the left hand side and outboard of the brake/shifter. On the other hand, when the right hand remote is mounted on top of the bars on the right hand side and outboard of the brake/shifter, the cone and cable extend over the top of the brake/shifter--but the brake/shifter still prevent you from rotating the remote upwards.

You will really come to appreciate the KS remote once you fiddle with the Reverb remote.


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## kjahn (Mar 7, 2005)

billysan said:


> So I decided to go for a 2012 5" 420mm model, have it sat in front of me at the minute.
> 
> What is the general feeling about checking and adjusting the air pressure out the box? It sounds like a few have low pressure in, but it also quite clearly states in the manual not to touch this!
> 
> Function seems perfect at the minute (admitedly off the bike) so am not sure whether to fiddle!


Mine is a 2012 and the air pressure drops to 180 over a couple months. Pump it up to 250 and your good to go. I've done it several times.


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## billysan (Oct 11, 2008)

kjahn said:


> Mine is a 2012 and the air pressure drops to 180 over a couple months. Pump it up to 250 and your good to go. I've done it several times.


Thanks for the reply. I did end up checking the pressure. It was about 140psi it turns out. Interestingly it seemed to be working fine off the bike. I topped it up anyway.


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

Thread summary:

1) The remote is rinky dink and will break easily. One rider stood up to climb and the remote caught on his shorts and broke.

2) You should expect your post not to work when you first install it. Try these solutions in order:
a) Bleed the system (everything required is included in the box).
b) Pump the air pressure to 250.
c) Send it in for warranty repair.

3) Several posters have sent their Reverbs in for repair 3-4 times. Some of the people who chimed in to say that their Reverbs were working perfectly were beset with problems later.

4) If you read this entire thread, you will come away with the impression that the Reverb is a piece of ****. However, there must be some people who have had no problems with it. What percent? That's anyone's guess. But I'm guessing that the price of the Reverb went up to $370 because Rockshox expects to have to do warranty work on each post.

5) Mounting a right hand remote upside down on the left can be problematic. One rider cut half his shifter paddle off to make it fit. You can always mount the remote inboard far enough to get it to fit, but then the reach to the remote is a long way.

6) If you are doing a long adventure ride, carry an extra post in your backpack. It's also possible to use the 2012 model's drop limiting collar to make the post stay up when the post fails. I couldn't quite determine if clamping the crap out of the collar on the seatpost stanchion would damage it or not. When I look at my fork's stanchion and think about clamping a metal collar tightly around it, I can't see how it wouldn't scratch the stanchion.

7) Missing in the thread: a discussion of which side is better for mounting the remote. One rider posted that he started off with the remote on the left, but then found that when he approached a steep technical downslope, his first need was to squeeze the front brake(his left brake), so he decided to switch the remote to the right side so that he could squeeze the front brake and lower the seat at the same time.

Another time you might have to do some piano playing is if you have the seat down and come around a corner only to find a steep up. Then you need to downshift the front derailleur quickly--as well as raise your seat. That situation might also be an argument for mounting the remote on the right.

What say all you Reverb users? Right or left mount for the remote?


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## Daniel Soh (Jul 13, 2011)

Left mount (Reverb Stealth) with match maker. Finger crossed, problem free 2 weeks and counting.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

http://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/install...r-mojo-hd-771959-post9055595.html#post9055595


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## Terrytibbs (Apr 8, 2012)

happyriding said:


> Thread summary:
> 
> 1) The remote is rinky dink and will break easily. One rider stood up to climb and the remote caught on his shorts and broke.
> 
> ...


Don't forget to mention if you have your brake levers the correct way around (front brake on the right and rear on the left) or the incorrect way like Americans.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

denjen said:


> I broke the barb at the seat post and replaced it with the new updated version. After bleeding the system the post rebounds slower that before. I used to run it with 1 full turn in from full fast. Now I have it at full fast and it returns slower. Any ideas what might cause this? Could I have over filled the system.


did you find the solution? I have the same issue.. my local lbs broke my barb while servicing my bike. they replaced the barb and bled, now has the same issue as yours...need a solution..


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## crowfoot (Apr 9, 2012)

My reverb seems to work great but it will come up if i lift the bike by the seat then return once bike weigh is gone. Is this a no no or a indication of an issue?


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## billysan (Oct 11, 2008)

happyriding said:


> Thread summary:
> 
> 1) The remote is rinky dink and will break easily. One rider stood up to climb and the remote caught on his shorts and broke.
> 
> ...


A fairly negative summary I must say. Canvassing for opinions from shop coleagues, local competitor shops, and dozens of riders out at various trails & centres tells quite a different story.

Believe what you will.


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## ratty2k (Oct 29, 2007)

Finally had enough of my Reverb. First issue was the sinking post- fixed under warranty, second was crash damage snapped the front hosetail and leaked fluid and the last was turning the bike over to change tyres the remote lever snapped. 
I give up with it, got a KS on my hardtail and that bar mud in the top mechanism of the post making it a bit sticky has been faultless.
Needless to say, I just bought another and the Reverb will be going.


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

I just got a 2012 reverb. It was working well on the first ride and the return speed was really swift. Unfortunately, on my 2nd ride this morning, it would drop 1-2 inches. This happens if the rebound is set to the full fast position. I slowed down the rebound and it became ok again. The thing is, it's doing it again. Eventually i'll run out of rebound to compensate for it. 

Is this a bad sign of failure? Not looking forward to it since the SRAM service here in the Philippines ain't so hot and is usually a PITA.

Can anyone chime in? Thanks!


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## SCmaniac (Nov 30, 2008)

Love mine! Works like a charm on my nomad cr. Too bad I have to sell my bike... Listed through craigslist @ 3,600 for those interested.


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## Haran (Oct 6, 2011)

mikkosan said:


> I just got a 2012 reverb. It was working well on the first ride and the return speed was really swift. Unfortunately, on my 2nd ride this morning, it would drop 1-2 inches. This happens if the rebound is set to the full fast position. I slowed down the rebound and it became ok again. The thing is, it's doing it again. Eventually i'll run out of rebound to compensate for it.
> 
> Is this a bad sign of failure? Not looking forward to it since the SRAM service here in the Philippines ain't so hot and is usually a PITA.
> 
> Can anyone chime in? Thanks!


Did you shorten the cable before use? You may have bleed the system with the rebound in the wrong position. It has to be in the "slow" position.


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## Haran (Oct 6, 2011)

Well, at the moment my reverb works well (touch wood), how did I ride without so far? Amazing.


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

Haran said:


> Did you shorten the cable before use? You may have bleed the system with the rebound in the wrong position. It has to be in the "slow" position.


Nope, haven't shortened the cable yet. It was working so well out from the box that I was afraid to tinker with it yet because i might jinx it. Unfortunately, it's acting up just 2 rides in. It doesn't seem to hold my weight.


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## 2FUELS (Nov 18, 2006)

Due to an unfortunate bridge crossing gone wrong, had to replace the remote on my Reverb. (I run the left hand version under the right side of my bars, but the wreck ripped the hose out and broke off the threaded barb) New one installed, did the bleed and everything works as before no other issues so far. (the remote and hose cost $139.00, Pricey)


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

I'm on my 3rd Reverb - first two failed catastrophically - both replaced without question by SRAM. This latest one initially had a problem with holding air, but tightening up the schraeder valve has mostly taken care of that. I do have to put air in every 3 months (I can tell it's time b/c when I lift on the saddle the post starts to extend), but it's been working great.

I mount the right handed remote on the *left* side - under the bars, nestled next to the X9 shifters. This makes the actuator fairly accessible if I stretch my left thumb just a little bit, and keeps the remote safe. Putting the remote on top of the bars (like it was designed for) is horrible ergonomics, leaves it exposed in falls, and makes it so you can't flip your bike upside down - I can't imagine what SRAM was thinking, and I can't figure out why in the heck they haven't changed the mounting system yet...

Mounting the lever on the left doesn't cause problems for me when approaching steep sections, etc...


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## The Thug (Nov 16, 2006)

I've had my Reverb now for a couple of months or so and after shortening the hose and an initial bleed, I've had no problems.

BTW, a right handed lever mounted on the left.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

yeti575inCA said:


> did you find the solution? I have the same issue.. my local lbs broke my barb while servicing my bike. they replaced the barb and bled, now has the same issue as yours...need a solution..


2 options here to consider. 1st, follow my previous post about blowing out the lines. Rubber debris from torn seals on the bleed screws can cause restriction. Secondly, if you finish a bleed with the speed dial on the remote in the fast position, the return speed will be slow. Make sure to finish the bleed procedure with the speed dial in the full slow position.

Sent from my SPH-M920 using Tapatalk 2


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## hssp (Aug 28, 2007)

Terrytibbs said:


> Don't forget to mention if you have your brake levers the correct way around (front brake on the right and rear on the left) or the incorrect way like Americans.


You know that normal people have normal front brake left, and UK and likes still cling to their belief that front brake right is "normal"


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## denjen (Jan 30, 2004)

yeti575inCA said:


> did you find the solution? I have the same issue.. my local lbs broke my barb while servicing my bike. they replaced the barb and bled, now has the same issue as yours...need a solution..


Nope it is still doing it. It has developed a little side to side motion also. I am going to send it back to Rockshox for a rebuild this summer when it gets to hot to ride here in Virginia.


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## denjen (Jan 30, 2004)

denjen said:


> Nope it is still doing it. It has developed a little side to side motion also. I am going to send it back to Rockshox for a rebuild this summer when it gets to hot to ride here in Virginia.


I got a friend to help me re-bleed it and now seems to rebound just fine. Now the problem is that it has developed some up and down movement to go along with the side to side movement. I have a day trip to the mountains this weekend and a 3 day weekend of riding in West Virginia next weekend. After that its going back to Rockshox for a complete rebuild. If I had not fallen so in love with dropper posts I might give them up.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

My saddle creaks a bit, but mainly because it's an old saddle that my arse loves! Try a little bit of grease/lube on the clamp/rail interface, it seems to do the trick my my seat!

------------------
Weird, this was in response to the post below... Seems my PC is having a bit of a time warp day!


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## mint355 (Mar 9, 2012)

First ride with my reverb today I love it. So easy to move around with the post down. But I have a little problem seems to be making a noise from the seat clamp like a creaking sound has anyone found this aswell????


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## Daniel Soh (Jul 13, 2011)

Yes, lube the saddle rail and the creaking sound goes away.


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## Rivet (Sep 3, 2004)

Just installed my 2nd warranty. 2012 with the black collar, already seems better, zero play and the hose barb is more robust, we'll see.


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## prancisfena (Jan 30, 2012)

Finally getting a Reverb. Gotta go LBS hopping to look for the 31.6 version though... but hopefully 1 out of the 8 or so shops around the area would have one. Haha.


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

Just replacing mine for the third time, fourth if u count one rebuild.

Some new parts came with this one (2012) that I don't see identified in manual. Anyone?


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

attaboy said:


> Just replacing mine for the third time, fourth if u count one rebuild.
> 
> Some new parts came with this one (2012) that I don't see identified in manual. Anyone?
> 
> ...


Silver one is the "get me the **** off the trail" hater saver.

So, if your post fails to extend and maintain, extend manually, put on silver bit around the exposed post and then you can sit&spin your way out at desired height, albeit with a lack of adjustability.

I've not had to use one yet, but carry it.


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## dorkboy (Apr 25, 2006)

So I decided on the reverb to buy. Quality Outdoor Gear, Equipment & Clothing - Mountain Equipment Co-op (MEC) here is canada is now selling them for the same price as most lbs. 
But with mec, they warranty everything they sell for life without question. Therefore, my reverb now has a lifetime warranty. 
The only downside is that they only carry 30.9, 420mm right side, but that is exactly what I was looking for.

Oh yeah, that black clamp is for if you are NOT using any avid/sram stuff via matchmaker. It's there to fill the space when clamping.

Cheers.


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

Thanks!


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

So who is getting the new 150mm (6") drop Reverb? :thumbsup:

The RockShox Reverb Gets Even Better With Stealth & 150mm options

I can definitely see myself upgrading over the 2012 125mm Reverb I have now.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

In case anyone is wondering...I originally created this thread and loved my Reverb at first. When it failed mid-ride I was extremely disappointed. Then when it took forever to get back to me via warranty, and had a broken hose barb when I got it, that was enough for me. I've been using the Specialized Command Post BlackLite since. I just can't worry about a post failing on me during a super long high altitude or desert ride. I'm sure as hell not going to carry a spare seatpost in my pack. The BlackLite at least locks into place, so even if the air seal/spring fails you can still lock it in the fully extended position for pedaling. I've lost the infinite adjustability and silky smooth feel, but I wouldn't go back to the Reverb. After a liberal application of carbon paste at the seatpost clamp to prevent saddle rotation on the vertical plane, my post has been problem free for almost a year (I think). The lever can sometimes be hard to operate, but I'll take it over worrying about failure on the trail. There's about 10 guys in my riding group using the BlackLite. Most of us have had it since it came out, and none of us are having any major issues with it (yet).


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## 1fezbike (Feb 16, 2010)

*Matchmaker*

I know sram makes a matchmaker clamp for the reverb remote and elixer brakes but this only works with the elixir 7 and higher. I have elixer 5 brakes and SLX shifters and im running out of bar room. I need a clamp to put some of these parts together.


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## amtravco (Dec 9, 2010)

*Will fixed part of reverb fit into my frame?*

My frame is on the large size so my seat post is not that far out of the frame anyway. Thus if I bought a Reverb, I expect that the fixed or lower part of the seat post would be mounted all the way down in my frame. I'm worried that the fixed part might be too long to insert all the way down. Currently, there is 9.25" (235 mm) from the top of the seat post clamp to the point inside the seat tube below which a seat post cannot go (it hits the mounting mechanism for the rear suspension there). Will a Reverb slide all the way down in my frame?

This may have something to do with the "lengths" of the seat post-355 mm, 420 mm, etc. What exactly are these lengths?


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## amtravco (Dec 9, 2010)

OK, I think I've figured it out. 355 mm, etc., is the total length from the seat rail to the bottom of the fixed post when the movable post is in its fully extended position. Another important measurement, not given by RockShox but posted by others, is the distance between the seat rails to the bottom of the silver collar. This seems to be around 190–195 mm. Unfortunately, when my current seat is in its highest position, this distance is currently 175 mm. This implies that the seat will be too high if I bought a Reverb. The problem is the frame geometry of my Giant Anthem 29er, especially my large size frame coupled with my relatively short legs for my 6'-0" height. Because of this I run with most of the seat post in the seat tube, and so the bottom of the rails are pretty close to the seat post clamp. Maybe a new seat that's lower than my current one??!!


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## amtravco (Dec 9, 2010)

OK, maybe I don't have it figured out. On a spanish-language website (according to Google Translate), someone implied that the distance from the bottom of the collar for the 100-mm X 355 mm post was only 165 mm. I guess I just need to know the dimension in the attached photo for the 355 X 100 post, if anyone has it. It seems like RockShox should provide this measurement somewhere.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

amtravco said:


> OK, maybe I don't have it figured out. On a spanish-language website (according to Google Translate), someone implied that the distance from the bottom of the collar for the 100-mm X 355 mm post was only 165 mm. I guess I just need to know the dimension in the attached photo for the 355 X 100 post, if anyone has it. It seems like RockShox should provide this measurement somewhere.


Sounds about right. I have a 125mm post and the distance is ~7.5 inches (190mm). the 100mm post is 1 inch shorter and 165mm is 6.5". That seems to be correct. 165mm is the distance you were looking for.


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## Daniel Soh (Jul 13, 2011)

spacebull1 said:


> Yes it's true..But after a while he need to put lube again and again... That is just temporary solution....


Sadly, yes. Thanks for adding that in. More so if you like to ride in the rain or across streams.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

I just bought the Reverb post (125mm) from Performance Bike (they just opened a store in my area) figuring that if it turned into a lemon they would take care of it (lifetime satisfaction guarantee....). Installed it Friday - rode it yesterday: it was great! My brother has the Specialized Command Post BlackLite post and I was contemplating going with that due to the simple, mechanical design. But, i thought I might like the infinite adjustability of the Reverb - I definitely used it at different settings throughout the range (well, throughout the more extended half of the range - no need to slam the seat completely with the stuff I did on Sunday). The Reverb post worked beautifully - easy to push the lever and adjust the height no matter what the terrain was and without much thought at all. Sure as heck beat what I had to do several days ago on the same trail - get off, open clamp, lower post, hope I got the right height dialed for the particular descent, have fun, stop, get off, raise post, climb, hope I got the right height, repeat! 
Reverb-like posts sure as heck aren't NECESSARY but they sure do make riding that much more fun. :thumbsup:


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## dorkboy (Apr 25, 2006)

Well after 2 hard rides this past weekend. I am loving this seatpost. Feels great and works perfectly. Thank goodness.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

eurospek said:


> So who is getting the new 150mm (6") drop Reverb? :thumbsup:
> 
> The RockShox Reverb Gets Even Better With Stealth & 150mm options
> 
> I can definitely see myself upgrading over the 2012 125mm Reverb I have now.


And the excitement's over for the 150mm Reverb. It will only be available in the Stealth configuration. :nono:



> The big news on the dropper front post in recent weeks has been the launch of the Fox DOSS and CrankBrothers Kronolog, but the hydraulic RockShox Reverb remains our current favourite and some new developments should help it remain top of the heap.
> 
> In addition to the current 4in (100mm) and 5in (125mm) drop models, *RockShox are now offering a 6in (150mm) version, which should be perfect for taller riders who like to run their seats slammed to the top tube on downhills. It'll only be available with Stealth internal hose routing, though, so you'll need a compatible frame.*
> 
> This feature will now be available across the Reverb range after previously being restricted to OEM posts supplied with Trek and Scott bikes. There's no word yet on availability or US pricing of the new Stealth posts; UK RRP is £329.99.


News Round-up: RockShox Reverb Now Available With 6in Drop - BikeRadar


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## prancisfena (Jan 30, 2012)

eurospek said:


> And the excitement's over for the 150mm Reverb. It will only be available in the Stealth configuration. :nono:
> 
> News Round-up: RockShox Reverb Now Available With 6in Drop - BikeRadar


Just found out that my bike frame can take a stealth Reverb.  But I just bought my Reverb so... meh.


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## okiemtnbkr (Oct 8, 2010)

BaeckerX1 said:


> In case anyone is wondering...I originally created this thread and loved my Reverb at first. When it failed mid-ride I was extremely disappointed. Then when it took forever to get back to me via warranty, and had a broken hose barb when I got it, that was enough for me. I've been using the Specialized Command Post BlackLite since. I just can't worry about a post failing on me during a super long high altitude or desert ride. I'm sure as hell not going to carry a spare seatpost in my pack. The BlackLite at least locks into place, so even if the air seal/spring fails you can still lock it in the fully extended position for pedaling. I've lost the infinite adjustability and silky smooth feel, but I wouldn't go back to the Reverb. After a liberal application of carbon paste at the seatpost clamp to prevent saddle rotation on the vertical plane, my post has been problem free for almost a year (I think). The lever can sometimes be hard to operate, but I'll take it over worrying about failure on the trail. There's about 10 guys in my riding group using the BlackLite. Most of us have had it since it came out, and none of us are having any major issues with it (yet).


Yes, yes, yes. I went from a Joplin to a new Blacklite. When Rockshox started including a CLAMP to keep your seatpost up in an emergency (see above)... well, that's insane. Crank Brothers should have provided one of those clamps too!

Hydraulic-locked dropper posts are just a bad idea. I imagine that only the air-sprung, mechanically locked posts will stand the test of time.


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## Rivet (Sep 3, 2004)

okiemtnbkr said:


> Yes, yes, yes. I went from a Joplin to a new Blacklite. When Rockshox started including a CLAMP to keep your seatpost up in an emergency (see above)... well, that's insane. Crank Brothers should have provided one of those clamps too!
> 
> Hydraulic-locked dropper posts are just a bad idea. I imagine that only the air-sprung, mechanically locked posts will stand the test of time.


Hard to say. Full hydraulic posts should be the most durable in theory (less moving parts) it's just the application is so new it hasn't been optimized.


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

*Advice on Reverb remote with XT shifters / brakes?*

I'm ready to pull the trigger on my 1st adjustable post for my Mojo HD and have decided on a Reverb. I have spent quite a bit of time researching, especially how I should mount the remote - so that I know whether to order R or L. I even consulted with my LBS where I bought the bike - they're usually knowledgeable with this stuff, but it didn't really help - so I still haven't exactly figured out what would be the best way for me to do this. I have XT shifters and brakes and I run a 2x10 so I have a front derailleur. I would really appreciate any insight on the best way to mount the remote with this setup.

In my very unscientific research (reading posts), it seems like most people mount it on the left and many get the right configuration and do it upside down so they can still flip the bike, but I also recall reading that some have had issues with this setup (but now I forget what they are). I'm sure I'll figure out a way to adapt to whatever I end up with, but figured I would get some thoughts before ordering.

One other thing - in my reading I saw that some people were able to get their hands on a Stealth and cleverly rig it on their Mojos, which was awesome! - but it seems like these things are hard to come by - if anybody knows of a way to get a hold of a Stealth - huge bonus points!

Thanks in advanced!


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## borbntm (May 4, 2011)

skyno said:


> I'm ready to pull the trigger on my 1st adjustable post for my Mojo HD and have decided on a Reverb. I have spent quite a bit of time researching, especially how I should mount the remote - so that I know whether to order R or L. I even consulted with my LBS where I bought the bike - they're usually knowledgeable with this stuff, but it didn't really help - so I still haven't exactly figured out what would be the best way for me to do this. I have XT shifters and brakes and I run a 2x10 so I have a front derailleur. I would really appreciate any insight on the best way to mount the remote with this setup.
> 
> In my very unscientific research (reading posts), it seems like most people mount it on the left and many get the right configuration and do it upside down so they can still flip the bike, but I also recall reading that some have had issues with this setup (but now I forget what they are). I'm sure I'll figure out a way to adapt to whatever I end up with, but figured I would get some thoughts before ordering.
> 
> ...


I bought my Reverb about 8 months ago to install on my Trance X2 and it is without a doubt the best "bike accessory" that I have purchased to date. It is kinda like growing an extra set of nuts when it comes to going fast downhill!

Mine has the standard right hand control, mounted upside down on the left...I prefer it this way and had no problems getting used to it. I have had absolutley no problems of any type to date and I weigh 215 lbs. I am not easy on it in any way...:thumbsup:


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## mint355 (Mar 9, 2012)

I've had mine for a month now. Right mount on the left upside down too no problems and is more out the way from damage and I weight 95 kgs with no problems


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

borbntm said:


> I bought my Reverb about 8 months ago to install on my Trance X2 and it is without a doubt the best "bike accessory" that I have purchased to date. It is kinda like growing an extra set of nuts when it comes to going fast downhill!
> 
> Mine has the standard right hand control, mounted upside down on the left...I prefer it this way and had no problems getting used to it. I have had absolutley no problems of any type to date and I weigh 215 lbs. I am not easy on it in any way...:thumbsup:


Are you guys running Shimano triggers or SRAM? My impression had been that the remote fits upside down well with SRAM components, but that it doesn't fit well
with the new XT stuff. Is that not true?

I recently got the post (LOVE it!) and installed it on the left with a left handed trigger (so on top of the bar). I also have the new 2X10 XT and that configuration works great. I took a very cursory look before mounting it whether it could have fit underneath on the other side and it didn't look like it would be easy.

The issue is that with the lever on top it could get damaged if you turn your bike upside down for on-the-trail maintenance. I never do that, so it was a moot point for me....



mint355 said:


> I've had mine for a month now. Right mount on the left upside down too no problems and is more out the way from damage and I weight 95 kgs with no problems


Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


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## Ob1Hoagie (Jun 11, 2004)

Post Removed....


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## Ob1Hoagie (Jun 11, 2004)

billysan said:


> A fairly negative summary I must say. Canvassing for opinions from shop coleagues, local competitor shops, and dozens of riders out at various trails & centres tells quite a different story.
> 
> Believe what you will.


billysan....

Negative or not... that post from happyriding is REALITY for me as I've gone through THREE posts and I'm waiting on a fourth post. I honestly think that the Reverb is a seriously flawed product...and I'm not just saying that as I have other Sram products that work just fine.

I have a Spesh Blacklite on another bike and I've had NO problems w/that post. The only setup issue w/the Spesh post is that you have to put carbon paste on the seatpost clamps to get the clamps to seat and not move.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Ob1Hoagie said:


> billysan....
> 
> Negative or not... that post from happyriding is REALITY for me as I've gone through THREE posts and I'm waiting on a fourth post. I honestly think that the Reverb is a seriously flawed product...and I'm not just saying that as I have other Sram products that work just fine.
> 
> I have a Spesh Blacklite on another bike and I've had NO problems w/that post. The only setup issue w/the Spesh post is that you have to put carbon paste on the seatpost clamps to get the clamps to seat and not move.


Reality for some but thankfully not for me so far. As a 300lb clyde I can put some stress on a bike. I have had no problems at all with my Reverb. That's with 6 months and over 600 miles logged on it. So far so good without a complaint from me.


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## mint355 (Mar 9, 2012)

albertdc said:


> Are you guys running Shimano triggers or SRAM? My impression had been that the remote fits upside down well with SRAM components, but that it doesn't fit well
> with the new XT stuff. Is that not true?
> 
> I recently got the post (LOVE it!) and installed it on the left with a left handed trigger (so on top of the bar). I also have the new 2X10 XT and that configuration works great. I took a very cursory look before mounting it whether it could have fit underneath on the other side and it didn't look like it would be easy.
> ...


I'm running xt 1x10 so no problems for me


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## f3rrand (Apr 27, 2012)

*Is it worth it?*

I have been thinking about getting a hydraulic Seatpost, are there any other suggestions besides the Reverb, or do you guys think the Reverb is the best one of the crop?

Thanks


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

f3rrand said:


> I have been thinking about getting a hydraulic Seatpost, are there any other suggestions besides the Reverb, or do you guys think the Reverb is the best one of the crop?
> 
> Thanks


I have been doing quite a bit of research over the last few weeks deciding which one to get for myself. As with anything, you will certainly find all kinds of differing opinions out there, but I decided on the '12 Reverb because that was the closest thing I could find to a consensus - the telling part for me was that a lot of the people who work at the LBSs around here have them on their bikes - they all said only get the newest version, not the previous one, which had issues. I don't actually have the post yet, but will soon and I'll let you know how it works out.


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## hhuffman (Apr 10, 2006)

I bought a '11 Reverb used on eBay. I was never able to get it to work right. Very competant LBS mech tried very hard to get it to work right and eventually sent it to RS. They sent back a brand new '12, free of charge and it has been great since. Spent 5 months sitting in the garage and absolutely no loss of pressure. I have never used another telescoping seatpost so I can't compare.


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## f3rrand (Apr 27, 2012)

skyno said:


> I have been doing quite a bit of research over the last few weeks deciding which one to get for myself. As with anything, you will certainly find all kinds of differing opinions out there, but I decided on the '12 Reverb because that was the closest thing I could find to a consensus - the telling part for me was that a lot of the people who work at the LBSs around here have them on their bikes - they all said only get the newest version, not the previous one, which had issues. I don't actually have the post yet, but will soon and I'll let you know how it works out.


Sounds like ill do a bit more research on some of the other competitors but Im leaning towards the reverb.

Thank you for your help.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## Torwood (Apr 25, 2011)

had my 'verb about a year, got it on e-bay new/unused/oem, had to bleed it a few times when i got it, since then been fine.
just got round to doing some service work on my bike, Mojo HD, been flogging it lately and let it get in a bot of a state, and noticed the 'verb is loosing air, think i'll just get a o-ring ki off flea bay and sevice it

great product, looking for another for my Yeti


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

Have had no issues with 2011 reverb until today. Sat on it and heard a "pop". Post must have blown a seal and now weighted the post collapses but returns when pushing the bottom. Guess a trip to the lbs


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## Timoshenko (Jan 4, 2012)

*2012 Reverb*

wow, like a new bike! just fitted my new 2012 Reverb to the GT Carbon Force Expert and its like a new bike, seat up higher than pre Reverb and felling much more comfortable, one ride in and loving it!


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## Robmmprod (May 13, 2012)

I hear that the RockShox is the best but I also hear that Fox has a new one coming out this year.


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## D93 (Oct 19, 2011)

willards said:


> After a few rides my 2011 Rockshox reverb returned really slow. After checking the air I noticed it lost air very quickly. I've changed the o-ring that was broken but lost some oil after doing it. Now i've assembled the post (without bleeding) but when I pump up the post it compresses instead of extending. I don't know if this is the right thread for questions but it would be very nice if somebody could tell if this is normal?


Bleeding it is easy and only takes a couple minutes. This will fix your problem.


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## willards (Mar 26, 2011)

After a few rides my 2011 Rockshox reverb returned really slow. After checking the air I noticed it lost air very quickly. I've changed the o-ring that was broken but lost some oil after doing it. Now i've assembled the post (without bleeding) but when I pump up the post it compresses instead of extending. I don't know if this is the right thread for questions but it would be very nice if somebody could tell if this is normal?


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

yeti575inCA said:


> Have had no issues with 2011 reverb until today. Sat on it and heard a "pop". Post must have blown a seal and now weighted the post collapses but returns when pushing the bottom. Guess a trip to the lbs


update - next day LBS called SRAM and they are sending me a new 2013  
no questions asked, hassle free!!!

Go SRAM customer service!


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## willards (Mar 26, 2011)

D93 said:


> Bleeding it is easy and only takes a couple minutes. This will fix your problem.


Thanks a lot for the help! Should I bleed it inflated or without pressure? I could not tell this from the video's/manual.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

willards said:


> Thanks a lot for the help! Should I bleed it inflated or without pressure? I could not tell this from the video's/manual.


Inflated.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Do the 2012 reverb post's have all these problems or have they been resolved????


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

big JC said:


> Do the 2012 reverb post's have all these problems or have they been resolved????


LBS tells me that SRAM has resolved the common Reverb issues with the '12 and many of the guys who work there are running them - I am about 8-9 rides in with it - perfect performance so far


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

big JC said:


> Do the 2012 reverb post's have all these problems or have they been resolved????


I've been running my 2012 for about 3 months now on my 5.7C, no issues at all


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## speedsterR (Jan 20, 2012)

My 2012 has been flawless for 5 months under many conditions and hours of riding. I have been wondering how many times I use it during a normal ride and I did a rough count last time which came out to be over 100 times. Of course this varies for the trail and length of ride for me, and obviously will vary wildly compared to everyone else but it's interested to see how many cycles these things go through over a years time. Not a trivial product to design and glad to see many more people adopting them which will lead to better and better products over time. These are here to stay.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Sweet! Good to know fellas and thanks for your responses. Had high hopes for the kronolog, and the ks lev is ridiculously priced, Seems like the 2012 reverb is a no brainer for a dropper post.


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## Rivet (Sep 3, 2004)

My 2012 Reverb has been great so far (4 months). Zero play from the beginning and still solid as opposed to my two previous. Rock Shox could well have this figured out.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

Due to my clydesdale status (6'4", 220lbs), I held off on buying an adjustable seatpost for years hoping someone's version would emerge on top in terms of strength and reliability. Finally bought a '12 reverb 3 months ago....so far it's been flawless with no signs of trouble. Seems to be the consensus here.


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## Francesc (Sep 4, 2008)

Launch date of Stealth reverb?


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## Daniel Soh (Jul 13, 2011)

Francesc said:


> Launch date of Stealth reverb?


They were available as spare parts 2 months back. Check with your SRAM or lbs stores.

Got mine in early April.


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## Bikesrock (Feb 20, 2012)

Friend has a reverb. I am getting a Trek Fuel and want a dropper post on it. I think I will go with the crank brothers post because its half the price.


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## Hikers Only (Oct 18, 2010)

When checking the air pressure I know it is meant to be at 250 psi but are you meant to check it with the post extended to full height or when it is pushed down? Thanks.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Bikesrock said:


> Friend has a reverb. I am getting a Trek Fuel and want a dropper post on it. I think I will go with the crank brothers post because its half the price.


Reverb = around 375-400 and the Crank Bros. Kronolog runs about 300. Not sure how that equates to half...

Me = not touching a Crank Bros. post for love nor money.


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

After reading the CB thread, there's no way I'd buy one. Lots of riders using the 2012 Reverb with no issues so I dove in.

I bought my Reverb from Universal, used the VIP15 coupon, comes to $319 w/free shipping:
Universal Cycles -- Rock Shox Reverb Seatpost 2012


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

'12 Reverb on Ebay new in box = $260 shipped

Installed in 10-15 minutes (assuming you have a place to run the lines)


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

rednova75 said:


> When checking the air pressure I know it is meant to be at 250 psi but are you meant to check it with the post extended to full height or when it is pushed down? Thanks.


Fully extended. In fact, never put a shock pump onto the post when it is compressed - the pressure will be higher than the pump can handle, and you could blow some seals in the pump.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

skyno said:


> '12 Reverb on Ebay new in box = $260 shipped
> 
> Installed in 10-15 minutes (assuming you have a place to run the lines)


eBay = no warranty, correct? Bad idea with a Reverb . . . .


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

OO7 said:


> eBay = no warranty, correct? Bad idea with a Reverb . . . .


Is that true? I didn't realize that was the case. In the item description, it says original manufacturer warranty applies and this is a brand new item in the box, so I can't see why it wouldn't be warrantied. I also read some other posts here that others who bought through eBay were able to deal w/ SRAM directly.

Of course, you won't have an LBS as a middleman, but that is fine with me - I find it is faster and more efficient to cut out the middleman anyways. Luckily, so far i have had absolutely no problems - will chime in if anything happens.

Any eBay buyers have any experience dealing w/ warranty issues?

thanks


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Whether or not you purchased it at an LBS doesn't mean they can't take care of a warranty. Any authorized SRAM retailer can deal with a warranty. If they chose not too, then they just didn't want to help.


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## istvisinet (May 20, 2008)

Good luck with getting SRAM to deal with you unless you are a shop. You can get info from them, but I have never been able to get SRAM to cut out the middle man on support issues. It ALWAYS has to go through an authorized shop. Good Luck


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

istvisinet said:


> Good luck with getting SRAM to deal with you unless you are a shop. You can get info from them, but I have never been able to get SRAM to cut out the middle man on support issues. It ALWAYS has to go through an authorized shop. Good Luck


This. And maybe its just the shops that I've dealt with, but if you didn't buy it from them, they aren't going to touch it.

Then there's the whole issue of the grey market . . . just because an eBay vendor claims full mfg warranty, that does NOT mean it to be true. Warranties are generally not honored unless sold by an authorized retailer, and I'd bet that SRAM/AVID don't have any authorized sellers on the bay. I could be wrong, and I've not had direct experience with SRAM and eBay, but I've been burned BAD by other companies that have such policies, its more the norm than the exception.

There are a lot of things I'll buy on eBay . . . new bike parts is not one of them. With the competitive pricing of etailers, there's no longer the need in my opinion. Its worth the peace of mind and security to have an authorized reseller back you up if you need it.


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

*Interesting*

I guess I just assumed (maybe naively?) that a company like SRAM would stand behind their product. If what is being posted about eBay is true, I may learn a somewhat valuable & expensive lesson if I have any issues w/ my Reverb.

Going off topic here, if these eBay seller's are not authorized, how do they get this much inventory? It's not like they are selling 1 or 2 items here or there that slip through the cracks. There are many sellers selling tons of products with a huge selection & inventory, but it's not like they are selling brand new Santa Cruz bikes because Santa Cruz obviously controls their inventory to only authorized resellers. It would seem if a company is selling SRAM (or any other high-end product from a high-end company), it would be in their best interest to only distribute to authorized resellers. This is sounding more like a rant now, but it would be interesting if anyone knows the answer.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

It's all about the Gray market . . . unauthorized, but technically legal.

Grey market - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The reason you don't see it happening with SC bikes is because of the Serial Numbers. If SC saw one vendor on eBay routinely selling frames and/or bikes way below cost, they'd just have to buy one, track the S/N and there goes the end of that supply chain. That doesn't happen on the same level when you are talking about small bike parts.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

skyno said:


> I guess I just assumed (maybe naively?) that a company like SRAM would stand behind their product. If what is being posted about eBay is true, I may learn a somewhat valuable & expensive lesson if I have any issues w/ my Reverb.
> 
> Going off topic here, if these eBay seller's are not authorized, how do they get this much inventory? It's not like they are selling 1 or 2 items here or there that slip through the cracks. There are many sellers selling tons of products with a huge selection & inventory, but it's not like they are selling brand new Santa Cruz bikes because Santa Cruz obviously controls their inventory to only authorized resellers. It would seem if a company is selling SRAM (or any other high-end product from a high-end company), it would be in their best interest to only distribute to authorized resellers. This is sounding more like a rant now, but it would be interesting if anyone knows the answer.


You do have to realize that there are some authorized retailers on Ebay. Many LBS's try to sell stuff online and through Ebay to help grow their businesses. I have had LBS's find me receipts from their store to help me warranty a product to help me out.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

fyi - i bought mine 2011 new in the box of craigs from private party. Last week it popped a seal. I took it to my lbs to see if they could service. They said SRAM said send it back and SRAM sent my LBS a 2012 replacement no questions asked at no charge 

impressed with SRAM service !


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

OO7 said:


> It's all about the Gray market . . . unauthorized, but technically legal.
> 
> Grey market - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
> 
> The reason you don't see it happening with SC bikes is because of the Serial Numbers. If SC saw one vendor on eBay routinely selling frames and/or bikes way below cost, they'd just have to buy one, track the S/N and there goes the end of that supply chain. That doesn't happen on the same level when you are talking about small bike parts.


Makes sense - thanks for taking the time to explain it - lesson learned!


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## rael (Jul 7, 2010)

yeti575inCA said:


> fyi - i bought mine 2011 new in the box of craigs from private party. Last week it popped a seal. I took it to my lbs to see if they could service. They said SRAM said send it back and SRAM sent my LBS a 2012 replacement no questions asked at no charge
> 
> impressed with SRAM service !


another 575 rider...

I posted a few times way-back-when in this thread, got mine from lbs when it first hit the retail market (sep 10), no issues other than 3 - 4 bleeds over the last 20 months. finally blew the air seal while parked in the garage last month. lbs sent to sram, just got a call, brand new post is waiting for me! makes me feel good about the full 10sp conversion i'm working on - X0 type 2 RD(coming wednesday),X0 grip shifter, etc.

Appreciate SRAM standing up for their product.

dave
08 575


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## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

I am going on 800km of riding since last sept when i bought my new bike and '12 post.

No issues. Had to cut the line when I installed it but have not bled it yet. I have had the creaking on the seat, which I don't know if it is the post, the clamps or the seat itself (cheap Fizik Nisene seat) but i will try lubing the clamp and see if that stops it.

I did notice a peculiar sound on Monday that I have not heard before and wondering if others have. When compressing the post (while stopped and preparing for a decline), I could hear a gurgling sound. Not very loud and not consistent when I tried cycling it up and down a few times. I thought it was the bead on my tire, burping out sealant but ruled that and my rear shock out as the culprits.

I couldn't quite tell if it was coming from the hose, the seal or if it was coming from inside the seattube. 

I rode my bike last night and did not hear the sound.

I would do a bleed but I am scared I could be breaking the if-it-ain't-broke-don't-fix-it rule.

Anyone else experience this?


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

Gunnar-man said:


> I am going on 800km of riding since last sept when i bought my new bike and '12 post.
> 
> No issues. Had to cut the line when I installed it but have not bled it yet. I have had the creaking on the seat, which I don't know if it is the post, the clamps or the seat itself (cheap Fizik Nisene seat) but i will try lubing the clamp and see if that stops it.
> 
> ...


I didn't experience the gurgling sound, but I did get a lot of creaking on my 1st couple rides - I read to lube the clamps and rails that attach the post to the saddle, so I did this and the creaking seemed to gradually go away, although not immediately, so I'm not sure if it was in the post and just worked itself out or the lubing of the clamps / rails got rid of it - just glad it went away cause it was annoying


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## prancisfena (Jan 30, 2012)

Went our for a ride this morning with my 2 Minh old reverb. It's the 2012 version (just to state the obvious). Anyway, towards the end of our ride I lifted the bike by the saddle, the post wasn't fully extended when I lifted it, but as I lifted the bike the post began to extend/slide out. I let go and the thing goes back to the original position. Tested it several times and it works fine but when lifting the bike by the saddle the post seems to extend. Do I just need to bleed it?

And how do you guys keep the post clean when going on rainy day rides on muddy trails?


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## rael (Jul 7, 2010)

prancisfena said:


> ...ride I lifted the bike by the saddle, the post wasn't fully extended when I lifted it, but as I lifted the bike the post began to extend/slide out. I let go and the thing goes back to the original position. Tested it several times and it works fine but when lifting the bike by the saddle the post seems to extend. Do I just need to bleed it?
> 
> ...?


that's normal operation. shouldn't be an issue while you're riding. you need to bleed when it stops/slows down coming back to extended position while pushing the button.

fyi, I As i mentioned a few posts ago, just got a 2012 replacement for my 2010 model. Out of the box the 2012 is much smoother and quicker than the 2010. Going for my first ride now. Hope this one lasts at least two more years.

About cleaning, I don't worry about rain and mud while I'm riding, wipe off with a rag when I'm done, or before next ride.

dave


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

Been for a few wet rides recently. During the ride I don't worry about it. When I get home though I clean it as I do my suspension.

Wipe/wash of all the excess dirt & mud, lightly brush the seal to remove any dirt stuck there, and then use a drop of Teflon lube on the seal and cycle the post a few times.

It's served me well for years on my fork & shock, so I reckon it'll extend the service life of the post too.


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## slide mon (Jul 18, 2005)

*Reverb slips when it's hot out?*

We've had a couple hot days here in Northern CA recently. At the end of May on a 90F+ I noticed my reverb constantly slipping an inch or so. I thought it was broken but took it on a couple rides in Tahoe where it was 20 degrees cooler and it was back to normal. Then yesterday (guessing also 90F+) I started a ride at 4pm and the post would not stay up at all. It took about 20 seconds to slowly descend the full 5 inches. As the day cooled off though it started working again and was rock solid when I finished the ride at 7:30.

Anyone else had this problem? Is there any solution? I got this post at the end of January and so far it's been great but worried that this is going to be a problem all summer long.

Thanks
slide


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

I have not experienced this, it's been a pretty constant 75F - 82F here in Hawaii. Sounds like you may have a marginally failed seal that only becomes a problem when the oil viscosity is lowered due to heat? Just a guess. Definitely should be a warranty issue, let us know how this gets worked out. Doesn't bode well for the rest of us as we enter the Summer months.


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## mtbobsessed (Jun 16, 2012)

Had my Reverb for about 6 months now. I have the remote mounted on top Rh side. No problems at all.
Didn't read thru the whole topic (all 48 pages) But when installing it make sure you use friction paste. Makes a huge differenc to the pressure needed on the clamp. I run a quick release, even 5 inches isn't enough.Been doing test rides lately and sorely missing my reverb.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

slide mon said:


> We've had a couple hot days here in Northern CA recently. At the end of May on a 90F+ I noticed my reverb constantly slipping an inch or so. I thought it was broken but took it on a couple rides in Tahoe where it was 20 degrees cooler and it was back to normal. Then yesterday (guessing also 90F+) I started a ride at 4pm and the post would not stay up at all. It took about 20 seconds to slowly descend the full 5 inches. As the day cooled off though it started working again and was rock solid when I finished the ride at 7:30.
> 
> Anyone else had this problem? Is there any solution? I got this post at the end of January and so far it's been great but worried that this is going to be a problem all summer long.
> 
> ...


Wish I could give a solution, but I can verify that this is NOT an inherent problem with the post. Live in Salt Lake City and had the post out in Moab a couple of weeks ago. 95+ degrees and no problems. 
Maybe try a rebleed of the system. Air expands with heat and maybe if you have some air in the system it is expanding and activating the post? Worth a try.


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## willards (Mar 26, 2011)

> After a few rides my 2011 Rockshox reverb returned really slow. After checking the air I noticed it lost air very quickly. I've changed the o-ring that was broken but lost some oil after doing it. Now i've assembled the post (without bleeding) but when I pump up the post it compresses instead of extending. I don't know if this is the right thread for questions but it would be very nice if somebody could tell if this is normal?


I have bleed my reverb, but it only extends to half of the travel. It's also spongy so i think there is still some air in the oil chamber. Does anybody have an idea to get this air out, or should I disassemble it again and assemble it different?


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## WAZCO (Apr 5, 2004)

Has anyone ever tried flipping the left Shifter and maintaining it on the left side of handlebar so that instead of pushing the button w/ thumb you're using your index finger instead? Kind of like trigger? Just curious if this is good idea. I'm bummed i didn't get the right one and flipped on the left side.


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## mykel (Jul 31, 2006)

Well my original first run is dead. Well the remote anyway.
Blew over a berm into a tree last weekend.
Snapped the hose off at the remote.
Remote (barrel adjuster) is also bent - not to mention the snapped off hose barb.

Was lucky it was on set to full down postion as I was Lift Assist Park riding at the time. Post stayed fully down. Luckily no fluid on the brakes, just about everywhere else though. 

Anybody know the cost of a new remote and hose?


michael


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## WAZCO (Apr 5, 2004)

Has anyone ever tried flipping the left Shifter and maintaining it on the left side of handlebar so that instead of pushing the button w/ thumb you're using your index finger instead? Kind of like trigger? Just curious if this is good idea. I'm bummed i didn't get the right one and flipped on the left side.


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## Jmal26 (Jun 21, 2012)

Can anyone tell me the exact dimensions of the 420mm post. I read that the minimum frame insert is 80mm but i cannot find exact dimensions for the overall lenght. Is the 420mm from bottom of the post to the saddle rails? Sorry might be a stupid question?


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

mykel said:


> ...Anybody know the cost of a new remote and hose?


A cool hundo:
Universal Cycles -- Rock Shox Reverb Lever/MMX Clamp/Hose Assemblies


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## willards (Mar 26, 2011)

@Jmal26: Exactly what you said, 420mm from bottom to seatpost rail and a minimum insert of 80mm (measured from the old model with the silver seal holder).

I also solved my problem with the reverb. Bleeding didn't solve problem, there was no oil anymore in the ''sinking cartridge''. After filling it, the reverb workes perfect again. The only difficulty was finding the right amount of oil, but after a few tries i've got the full travel back.


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## Francesc (Sep 4, 2008)

Any solution to solve the creaking sound of the seat clamping?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Francesc said:


> Any solution to solve the creaking sound of the seat clamping?


+1111

I have about 30+ hrs on my 2012 Reverb and recently started creaking at this junction (seat clamp/rails). I installed it new with lubing the rails and the clamps, but after a few rides, and noticing the saddle slipping a few mm to the back, I took it apart, relubed it and tightened it down quite good. And recently started creaking. I'm going to clean and relube again, and tighten it down not so much and watch if the saddle moves.

I had no creaking before when the saddle had moved, maybe I'm tightening the bolts too much perhaps in fear of the saddle sliding back.

Hopefully this won't have to be something I do now every few rides, lube and relube.


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## polymathic (Oct 11, 2010)

I used military red grease and clamped to exact torque specs. Not a creak since--and it's been a year +.


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## Wanny (Jul 30, 2011)

Holy **** I have this creaking too lol


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## mykel (Jul 31, 2006)

Try some copper or moly slip lube.
so far so good....

...now to get a new remote and hose and get the damn thing fixed. You have NO idea on how much you use these things until they are gone....

michael


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

mykel said:


> Try some copper or moly slip lube.
> so far so good....
> 
> ...now to get a new remote and hose and get the damn thing fixed. You have NO idea on how much you use these things until they are gone....
> ...


Just relubed tonight with some Red Devil and torqued it down less. Hopefully it won't return or I'll get some of the recommended lube above.

That copper lube, is it similar to the 3M Copper Anti-Seize Brake Lube which I can get at Pep Boys?


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## prancisfena (Jan 30, 2012)

I have the creaking too but it's more of when I'm off the bike and carrying it around (by the seat). 

Don't really mind it. Not yet. HAHA


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## mykel (Jul 31, 2006)

eurospek said:


> Just relubed tonight with some Red Devil and torqued it down less. Hopefully it won't return or I'll get some of the recommended lube above.
> 
> That copper lube, is it similar to the 3M Copper Anti-Seize Brake Lube which I can get at Pep Boys?


Yup, that's the stuff. While I'm working my way through the Molybdenum version, the copper stuff does the trick as well. Nasty messy stuff, but it is working for me.

michael


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

I ride so much gnar that I don't hear my post squeak  I kid i kid!!


But seriously, I haven't been hearing any squeaks on mine even after a hard crash which ripped a chunk off leather on my saddle.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

I'm squeaking too - As for lube, are you guys putting the lube at the bolt or all along the seat rail/clamp interface (ie, actually on the seat rails)? 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

I experienced creaking about 2 weeks after initial install, tightened the clamp bolts 'till the creaking was gone.....end of story.


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## plate (Jan 22, 2004)

WAZCO said:


> Has anyone ever tried flipping the left Shifter and maintaining it on the left side of handlebar so that instead of pushing the button w/ thumb you're using your index finger instead? Kind of like trigger? Just curious if this is good idea. I'm bummed i didn't get the right one and flipped on the left side.


The only real problem I see with doing this is that it will be way more exposed and prone to damge.

I had my trigger mounted on top side of the bar and broke the trigger in a very small low speed crash.

I now have it mounted under the bar and it seems to be way more protected.

The trigger needs a major redo as it is not at all durable in any situation even just flipping the bike upside down to change a tire...

Other than that ive been super happy with mine and had no major issues at all.


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## mykel (Jul 31, 2006)

Even with the trigger under the bar it is still vulnerable.

I have had two hits, the first bent the internal hose barb and made the adjustment barrel quite stiff, but everything still worked. A few months later and the second hit snapped the hose off of the remote (broke the barb as there is still a bit in the hose-end). 

Now take this with a grain of salt because I was an early adopter and have had this post since its initial introduction and it has been through a few gnarly and a lot of easy crashes. Post is fine, never has a problem with it, just gotta stump up the cash for a new remote and hose.

michael


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## WAZCO (Apr 5, 2004)

plate said:


> The only real problem I see with doing this is that it will be way more exposed and prone to damge.
> .


Maybe i wasn't clear. I have the left shifter for the reverb. Therefore the the shifter sits on top of the handlebar. If you rotate the left shifter and maintaining it on the left side, the shifter will be under the handlebar. Only this time you'll have the activate the shifter with your index finger vs the thumb. I did a little experimental with it and found that it was hard to push shifter w/ finger. I may try customized a lever and find way to attach it to the existing button so that it's easier to push.

Thanks for your response though!


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Sorry, still hoping for clarification regarding lubing the seat post clamp area to reduce squeaking. Exactly where are people putting the grease compounds? The bolt area only or the actual seat clamp/seat rails?
Thanks


Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk 2


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## nixgame22 (Apr 10, 2008)

albertdc said:


> Sorry, still hoping for clarification regarding lubing the seat post clamp area to reduce squeaking. Exactly where are people putting the grease compounds? The bolt area only or the actual seat clamp/seat rails?
> Thanks
> 
> Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk 2


The rails.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

nixgame22 said:


> The rails.


That's what I figured - thank you very much for the confirmation.

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk 2


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## sanokano (Jun 2, 2009)

*Reverb # 3*

My 3rd reverb just died , this one lasted 8 rides compared to the other 2 lasted around 6 rides each. This again was a new post from sram right out of the box. i guess i'll send it back but dont think i'll ever put it back on the bike. oh well just venting !:madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman:


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

sanokano said:


> My 3rd reverb just died...!:madman::madman::madman::madman::madman:


Do you wonder why some many people are having good results and you can't get ten rides out of one? Is there a common failure mode? The 2012 have been running well for almost everyone.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

pursuiter said:


> Do you wonder why some many people are having good results and you can't get ten rides out of one? Is there a common failure mode? The 2012 have been running well for almost everyone.


I thought the same thing, as my 2012 has been wonderful and reliable. Not saying it is all on him, but it did cross my mind.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

pursuiter said:


> Do you wonder why some many people are having good results and you can't get ten rides out of one? Is there a common failure mode? The 2012 have been running well for almost everyone.


None have called out their weight, athleticism, and/or skill level, which factor in greatly, but one can only speculate how these are breaking. I'm more likely to wonder how many other saddles and non-dropper seatposts they have damaged, maybe with their 200+ lbs (speculating) bouncing on it (and maybe heavily impacting on it in a not so perfect landing from minor air time or sloppy positioning). Stronger and more athletic riders are not likely to slam on the saddle with as much force, with their stronger legs and core muscles and lighter weight. It happens, even just from not having the saddle down and going through fast rolling sections and just bumping into it at an angle it doesn't like.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Varaxis said:


> None have called out their weight, athleticism, and/or skill level, which factor in greatly, but one can only speculate how these are breaking. I'm more likely to wonder how many other saddles and non-dropper seatposts they have damaged, maybe with their 200+ lbs (speculating) bouncing on it (and maybe heavily impacting on it in a not so perfect landing from minor air time or sloppy positioning). Stronger and more athletic riders are not likely to slam on the saddle with as much force, with their stronger legs and core muscles and lighter weight. It happens, even just from not having the saddle down and going through fast rolling sections and just bumping into it at an angle it doesn't like.


I have posted on here a few times as an athletic 300lb super clyde and have had no issues with my 2012 Reverb. I ride pretty hard, drops as big as 4-6 feet and again with no issues. 7 months of use with almost 600 miles on it. I couldn't be more happy with my Reverb


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

I'm 6'4" 225lbs, strong climber, ride hard on technical, rooty/rocky stuff w/a handful of 2' - 3' airtime events each ride. Had my 2012 reverb for about 4 months now, no issues at all. I'm sure there's a lot of stress on it while climbing, as I'm perched up in the stratosphere. Then I get the seat completely out of the way on the descents and hardly sit on it at all until I'm on the flats or climbing again.

Gotta be something going on with how sanokano's using it. 3 bad ones in a row seems unlikely. Perhaps clamping it in a bike stand the same incorrect way each time? Just a guess.

Tell us more about how you're using it Sano....so we can try to help you out, and so we know what we should avoid doing.


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## Jmal26 (Jun 21, 2012)

Hey all. Received my Referb (30.9-125-420) today. Fitted it this evening and went for a spin down the road. I have noticed there is a good amount of forward and backwards movement. When the Referb is in the full length position. Is this normal. When I hold the saddle I can move it slightly forward and backward. I am concerned this is not normal. I'm a big guy. 6'4" and heavy. 

Thanks


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## cerebroside (Jun 25, 2011)

How much is slightly? No forward/back movement in mine whatsoever, had it for a few months. I'm 6'2" and 180 lb without gear.


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## Jmal26 (Jun 21, 2012)

I'd say about 1-2mm forward and backward movement. When I peddle I can feel it. Less movement when fully dropped. When I hold the saddle I can clearly feel this movement?


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

Unfortunately, that much movement doesn't sound good. Mine has a very minute amount when I try to move it by hand, almost nothing. Can't feel any movement when pedaling.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Jmal26 said:


> Hey all. Received my Referb (30.9-125-420) today. Fitted it this evening and went for a spin down the road. I have noticed there is a good amount of forward and backwards movement. When the Referb is in the full length position. Is this normal. When I hold the saddle I can move it slightly forward and backward. I am concerned this is not normal. I'm a big guy. 6'4" and heavy.
> 
> Thanks


What type of movement? Flex? I am 300lbs and my post has no movement.


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## Jmal26 (Jun 21, 2012)

The movement is slightly forward and backwards. When I rode it last night I could feel the movement when I peddle. I planning some trail riding this evening. Maybe I need to ride it for a bit?

I feels like the seals are not holding the top of the seatpost tight enough and there is movement. Its about the same movement as when I twist the saddle left and right? Does anyone else have this type of movement.


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## mt.nebo.mtb (Feb 12, 2011)

Yep, sounds like the same play I have. It started out as just barely noticeable and just gets worse. Probably have 3 or 4mm fore and aft after 30 or so hours. Guess I'll be learning how to do a rebuild soon.
.


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## Jmal26 (Jun 21, 2012)

mt.nebo.mtb said:


> Yep, sounds like the same play I have. It started out as just barely noticeable and just gets worse. Probably have 3 or 4mm fore and aft after 30 or so hours. Guess I'll be learning how to do a rebuild soon.
> .


This must be covered under warranty. I bought this online in another country. Will a local Rockshox agent fix this under warranty or does it need to go back to the seller?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Betarad said:


> Unfortunately, that much movement doesn't sound good.* Mine has a very minute amount when I try to move it by hand, almost nothing. Can't feel any movement when pedaling.*


Mine is the same.

And btw, I'm 6'4" and 240 lbs and my 2012 Reverb has been amazing. Best $300 purchase ever, even for such tame singletrack around the Midwest, it sure does come in handy on my rides and I always use it now. :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## sanokano (Jun 2, 2009)

*3rd 2011 model*

these post were made on week 18 2011 and week 11 2011, not sure of the 1st post, i weigh 150lbs, 5'6", an intermediate rider, the bike is a 2010 small blur lt2 , i haven't sent it back to the bike shop yet but will be doing so shortly , sounds like the 2012 versions have all the problems worked out ? if they don't replace this with that version or up grade mine to 2012 there's no sense in putting it back on the bike. so far they replaced it no questions asked, not even asking for the bleed kits back.:madman::madman::madman:


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## jabberwocky (Sep 9, 2004)

I was lazy about getting my Reverb back, but I finally had my LBS send it off two or so weeks ago and just got it back today. Rockshox sent me a whole new post (with a whole new bleed kit and everything). My first post was made in april 2011, the new one was made in may 2012. Hoping it holds up better than the first one! Can't fault Rockshoxs service though, they turned it around fast and sent me a whole new post.


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## tkbike (May 18, 2004)

*No air pressure*

I haven't been on my bike in 2 weeks (due to injury) pulled it out of my truck today, it was very hot. I dropped my post a bit (2012 reverb) and it stayed. pedaled in the driveway to see how my leg felt. Got to the garage grabbed the seat to lift the bike and the seat reverb extended fully with no resistance. Then pushed down gently,and seat went all the way down.
I took post out of bike and tried to pump it up, but heard air hissing out of bottom of post around schrader valve, and shock won't hold air. Post is six weeks old with about 30 rides.

Do I need to send it back for service/replacement? I also read something in this forum about tightening schrader valve, bit don't want to void a warranty.


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## sanokano (Jun 2, 2009)

*Reverb # 3*

That is what my last one was doing , air leaking out the bottom as fast as you can pump it in. i have since set mine back for a warranty replacement this will be the 4th time ,not sure what year post i will get but your 2012 model failing is not good news . did you have the new style strain reliefs ? This is where i thought mine failed but after trying to pump air into it i noticed it leaking out the bottom. oh well hope for the best.


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## volc0m13 (Jul 16, 2012)

My buddy just bought a reverb yesterday! it is super awesome and really nice to use!


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

I received my replacement Reverb a couple months ago and it's still working fine but I'm just getting around to shortening the hose.

My new Reverb has the threaded barb and I've watched the SRAM "How to Shorten the Reverb Hose" video.

Quick question: Do I have to use a hydraulic hose cutter or will a good quality, sharp set of cable cutters work?


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## Wanny (Jul 30, 2011)

KRob said:


> I received my replacement Reverb a couple months ago and it's still working fine but I'm just getting around to shortening the hose.
> 
> My new Reverb has the threaded barb and I've watched the SRAM "How to Shorten the Reverb Hose" video.
> 
> Quick question: Do I have to use a hydraulic hose cutter or will a good quality, sharp set of cable cutters work?


I used a small single edge blade and it was totally fine.

Single Edge Blade (Darwin Solingen Sword Shanghai Co.,Ltd.,China)


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

Wanny said:


> I used a small single edge blade and it was totally fine.


Thanks. I just googled the same question and couple of other people suggested a new blade on a stanley utility knife or a small PVC pipe cutter would also work well.

Anyone had any problems using a cable cutter?

Plastic pipe cutter:


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## mykel (Jul 31, 2006)

K

Nope, but I have used an Olfa / Stanley / Razor knife with good results with Hydro cabling. Just have to watch that you cut square.

For Der. cabling I use a Dremel with cut-off disk. No crushing or other weirdness.

In my case I just said no to cable cutters...

michael


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

KRob said:


> I received my replacement Reverb a couple months ago and it's still working fine but I'm just getting around to shortening the hose.
> 
> My new Reverb has the threaded barb and I've watched the SRAM "How to Shorten the Reverb Hose" video.
> 
> Quick question: Do I have to use a hydraulic hose cutter or will a good quality, sharp set of cable cutters work?


I'll 2nd what has already been said b/c I did this very recently - most important thing is to get a clean, square cut - I would not recommend using cable cutter, but rather a very sharp razor blade help exactly 90 degrees perpendicular to the hose - works perfectly - an Exact-o knife is great if you have one


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

KRob said:


> Thanks. I just googled the same question and couple of other people suggested a new blade on a stanley utility knife or a small PVC pipe cutter would also work well.
> 
> Anyone had any problems using a cable cutter?
> 
> Plastic pipe cutter:


Nah. I've shortened two of them so far, and replaced the stock cables with the second gen. kit that needed cutting - used a Park cable/housing cutter all four times without issue.

Clean up any stray edges with a razor knife after, or a Dremel and it's good to go.

The threaded barbs are also much nicer.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

So I may have finally tracked down that annoying creaking I was experiencing on my 2012 Reverb 31.6 420mm. I have 30+ hrs on it and it's performing flawlessly for me, even for a guy my size, 6'4" and 240 lbs. It's been a real treat to use every time on the trails but lately I've been bummed out regarding the creaking.

Turns out the Reverb is really sensitive to the clamping pressure of the seat clamp. SRAM recommends something like 6 nM or just tight enough that the post isn't slipping in the frame. Well I've had mine installed with Finish Line friction paste from the get go and I've been experiencing a loud creak from what I believed to be the seat post clamping area (sounded similar to when my Thomson post and rails were dry before once).

I've had the clamping area apart numerous times, tried out numerous greases and even anti-seize copper paste on the seat rails and the bolts and clamp. I even went as far as ordering a new SRAM post clamping kit (the 2 metal clamps and new hardware) since maybe I thought it was that as there were marks on mine from metal digging into metal a bit from tightening the hardware too tight to stop the creaking.

In the time it took the LBS to get the new clamp kit in stock, I had the seat apart again and relubed, and finally it occurred to me after reading this thread that my Chromag QR seat clamp on the Honzo may be too tight as I've adjusted it to prevent the Reverb post from slipping a few millimeters on the rides, even with the friction paste. And looking back, I don't know why this didn't occur to me sooner as the creaking started right when the post started slipping and I tightened the QR bolt a bit.

Either way, the last 2 rides have been much better, I'm still playing around with the right pressure of the QR clamp to prevent slipping (with lots of friction paste still there) and just enough tightness to prevent the creaking from the post. And if it does creak now, it's quite rare and less apparent, before it was with every root, rock, and dip of the trail when seated. Quite annoying! And next time I'll have it apart, I'll replace with the new clamp kit as well lol.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

eurospek said:


> Either way, the last 2 rides have been much better, I'm still playing around with the right pressure of the QR clamp to prevent slipping (with lots of friction paste still there) and just enough tightness to prevent the creaking from the post. And if it does creak now, it's quite rare and less apparent, before it was with every root, rock, and dip of the trail when seated. Quite annoying! And next time I'll have it apart, I'll replace with the new clamp kit as well lol.


So another update for those dealing with the dreaded Reverb creak (and not coming from the saddle clamping area).

I gave up playing around with the right pressure of the Chromag QR clamp, there just was no sweet spot and a whole lot of aggravation mid ride. Too little and it constantly slipped and rarely creaked, too much and it was creaking with every bump and pedal stroke.

This was my first time using the Finish Line carbon friction paste (or any friction paste for that matter) and I will never bother with it again unless I'm dealing with actual carbon fiber it seems.

I cleaned all the friction paste off the post and inside my seat tube, hit it up with some isopropyl alcohol for good measure. Then lightly lubed the post with my go-to grease, Rock N Roll Red Devil Grease and tighten the Chromag QR tight enough as usual.

Now for the good news, the post had zero slippage during my 4 hour ride today and ZERO CREAKING!!!!! And I'm a hard rider too.

As for tightening the seat clamp too much as SRAM recommends under 6nm (or just tight enough to prevent slippage), I have noticed zero effect on the Reverb going up and down. It doesn't bind and functions 100% as it should. And quiet free. Finally.


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## jimithng23 (Feb 11, 2009)

I can attest to what eurospek found about clamping force on the post. 

2nd ride on the post, after I had raised the post a smidge trail-side which means I didn't exactly know what torque I tightened it to, and it would stick about halfway through the return travel. If I only dropped it halfway, it would fully extend. Remote pressure felt good, no kinks in the cable, I just thought I'd lost some fluid pressure so I'd rebleed when I got home.

Before I did that, I remembered I had adjusted the post on the trail so I likely overtightened it. Loosened the clamp, torqued to just shy of 6nm and voila! Perfect action once again.

Rock Shox isn't kidding when they say do not over torque the clamp.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

What are the causes of the 2012 Reverb being able to be pulled (extended) when either slammed or sitting at half extension. I am able to pull it some but as soon as I put weight on the seat, it returns to whatever position is was at. 

Is this normal or should I be worried?


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

eurospek said:


> What are the causes of the 2012 Reverb being able to be pulled (extended) when either slammed or sitting at half extension. I am able to pull it some but as soon as I put weight on the seat, it returns to whatever position is was at.
> 
> Is this normal or should I be worried?


I remember the manual stating that this is normal. I have not seen it happen with mine, but actually try to avoid doing it just in case it causes problems. The few times I have picked up my bike by the seat even with the post partway down, it has not extended, but according to the manual it CAN happen and is OK. I do not know why sometimes it happens and sometimes it doesn't.... The fact that this doesn't happen with the mechanical systems is what they tout as one of their advantages (though I don't think it is a big deal as long as it doesn't cause damage).

So no need to worry. :thumbsup:


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

Yeah mine did the same thing when I lifted the bike by the seat the other day, but then went back down to where it was and operated fine afterwards. I wasn't too worried since it seemed like a temporary condition, but glad to hear it's acknowledged in the manual as OK.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

albertdc said:


> I remember the manual stating that this is normal. I have not seen it happen with mine, but actually try to avoid doing it just in case it causes problems. The few times I have picked up my bike by the seat even with the post partway down, it has not extended, but according to the manual it CAN happen and is OK. I do not know why sometimes it happens and sometimes it doesn't.... The fact that this doesn't happen with the mechanical systems is what they tout as one of their advantages (though I don't think it is a big deal as long as it doesn't cause damage).
> 
> So no need to worry. :thumbsup:


Thanks for the that!!!

From Page 8 of the Reverb manual pdf:



> NOTE - It is possible to manually raise the seatpost without actuating the remote by
> pulling up on the saddle with enough force.


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

On the 2012, I've found that this is an indication that the air pressure has dropped. Check the air pressure and see if it isn't low.

Note on the 2011 (and maybe 2010 - can't remember when I started with the Reverb), this behavior (for me at least) indicated that not only was the air pressure low, but that the post was about to fail catastrophically (most likely b/c of a bad air seal). This has not been an issue so far with the 2012.

So I don't think this is anything to worry about in the 2012 - but you should check your air pressure just-in-case.



eurospek said:


> What are the causes of the 2012 Reverb being able to be pulled (extended) when either slammed or sitting at half extension. I am able to pull it some but as soon as I put weight on the seat, it returns to whatever position is was at.
> 
> Is this normal or should I be worried?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

trumpetinc said:


> On the 2012, I've found that this is an indication that the air pressure has dropped. Check the air pressure and see if it isn't low.
> 
> Note on the 2011 (and maybe 2010 - can't remember when I started with the Reverb), this behavior (for me at least) indicated that not only was the air pressure low, but that the post was about to fail catastrophically (most likely b/c of a bad air seal). This has not been an issue so far with the 2012.
> 
> So I don't think this is anything to worry about in the 2012 - but you should check your air pressure just-in-case.


Thanks, I did check pressure right away, it was at 250 psi exactly.

Dropped the pressure and repumped to 250 and it's still the same. But in all honesty, I never bother checking this before hand if it happened when new. My post is either always dropped or fully extended.

And when it is dropped now, it takes more force to pull it up than let's say when it's half extended, then it's easily to pull up.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Anyone have an extra enduro collar they don't want? I'll buy it off you. Can't seem to find one for sale anywhere. PM me.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Okay, new problem for me and it's been so bombproof so far, until now when I started posting in this thread. 

Anyway, what are the causes of the seat dropping a few millimeters when it sits at any position other than slammed? Fully extended if you sit on it, it will drop a few mm and stop, and functions normally. If you go to raise it up via remote, it will go up those few mm and stay there or sometimes not and will drop the few millimeters again. Same thing happens at any other position as well. Half extended and you can put pressure on it and it will drop a few mm before firmly stopping to support the weight.

Before I call SRAM, what can I check myself for a fix?


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

> Okay, new problem for me and it's been so bombproof so far, until now when I started posting in this thread.
> 
> Anyway, what are the causes of the seat dropping a few millimeters when it sits at any position other than slammed? Fully extended if you sit on it, it will drop a few mm and stop, and functions normally. If you go to raise it up via remote, it will go up those few mm and stay there or sometimes not and will drop the few millimeters again. Same thing happens at any other position as well. Half extended and you can put pressure on it and it will drop a few mm before firmly stopping to support the weight.
> 
> Before I call SRAM, what can I check myself for a fix?


This has happened to me before and the cause was too low of air pressure. I think mine had dropped to 180psi. Pumped it back to 250 and the problem stopped.


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## tkbike (May 18, 2004)

eurospek said:


> Okay, new problem for me and it's been so bombproof so far, until now when I started posting in this thread.
> 
> Anyway, what are the causes of the seat dropping a few millimeters when it sits at any position other than slammed? Fully extended if you sit on it, it will drop a few mm and stop, and functions normally. If you go to raise it up via remote, it will go up those few mm and stay there or sometimes not and will drop the few millimeters again. Same thing happens at any other position as well. Half extended and you can put pressure on it and it will drop a few mm before firmly stopping to support the weight.
> 
> Before I call SRAM, what can I check myself for a fix?


Check and make sure it has 250 lbs of air in it....


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## Torwood (Apr 25, 2011)

my Reverb started leaking a bit of air a while ago, got a seal kit (o rings only) for about $12 off flea bay, took it apart and fixed it
all good

then at the weekend i lifted the bike by the seat when the post was half way down which pulled it up
after tha the post still went up and down but sat about 40mm low

took it apart again today, air pressure was way down to about 100psi, found a damaged seal in the upper half, replaced it, pumped it up, hold air well, 250psi

but the post doesn't extend all the way up on its own, sits about 50mm low
bled it all the way through, seems to have hydro locked itself out somehow

any suggestions?

still love it though!!!!


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Laterilus said:


> This has happened to me before and the cause was too low of air pressure. I think mine had dropped to 180psi. Pumped it back to 250 and the problem stopped.





tkbike said:


> Check and make sure it has 250 lbs of air in it....


That was the problem. And my POS shock pump from Performance Bike lol (gauge showed 250 psi, but it loses quite a bit of air at release). It was well below 250 psi. Got it back up and it's rock solid again. And ordered a new pump as well, a Topeak Pocket Shock DXG. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the help guys!


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

> my POS shock pump from Performance Bike lol (gauge showed 250 psi, but it loses quite a bit of air at release)


Topeak pumps are awesome! I have one of their shock pumps, floor pumps, and mini pumps and love 'em! 

That all said, I hope you are not misunderstanding how the pump works. Technically, the air pressure loss happens when you connect it, not when you disconnect it. When you connect it, the hose that goes between the valve and the gauge is unpressurized, so air from the shock pump must escape to fill it up and equalize it. It basically acts like an air volume extension, adding more air volume to your shock; also why you shouldn't try to measure spring rate or sag with your pump still connected (when pumping up shocks). You must trust the gauge when pumping air in. When you disconnect it, that's just air leaving the hose; the pressure in the "shock" is at the pressure you pumped it up to. Reconnecting the pump to use it as a gauge will show a lower reading, since that hose must be repressurized. Find a dedicated gauge that has no hose or arm that would fit onto the Reverb and I bet you'd get a more accurate reading.


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## ruppguts (Sep 7, 2007)

Hey guys. Been searching for some answers with no luck, so maybe you guys can help. My reverb is a few months old and has worked fine since I got it, no bleed necessary. I jumped on my bike for the first time in about 3 weeks today. The last time I used it it worked fine. This time, I went to lower the seat and it was super hard to compress. Once I lowered it, it wouldn't extend. After doing some googling I checked the air pressure, which seemed fine, but I let some air out and refilled and at least now it extends, but super slowly, and it's very difficult to compress. I'm guessing I need to rebleed if nothing else, but any other insight? Any advice on where to get some 2.5 wt oil? Thx.


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## jimithng23 (Feb 11, 2009)

ruppguts said:


> Hey guys. Been searching for some answers with no luck, so maybe you guys can help. My reverb is a few months old and has worked fine since I got it, no bleed necessary. I jumped on my bike for the first time in about 3 weeks today. The last time I used it it worked fine. This time, I went to lower the seat and it was super hard to compress. Once I lowered it, it wouldn't extend. After doing some googling I checked the air pressure, which seemed fine, but I let some air out and refilled and at least now it extends, but super slowly, and it's very difficult to compress. I'm guessing I need to rebleed if nothing else, but any other insight? Any advice on where to get some 2.5 wt oil? Thx.


I'm with you in thinking a rebleed will take care of your problem.

I'm not sure on where to get the oil...hopefully someone will chime in for ya!


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## Torwood (Apr 25, 2011)

jimithng23 said:


> I'm with you in thinking a rebleed will take care of your problem.
> 
> I'm not sure on where to get the oil...hopefully someone will chime in for ya!


you can get 2 or 2.5w oil at motorbike shops, fork oil


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## Torwood (Apr 25, 2011)

fixed again!!

sorted out my stuck down problem, i'd put the oil piston assembly back together without it being at the end of it's stroke.

will try to avoid picking the bike up by the seat when the post is down in future

love the reverb!!!!


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## Captain Cobb (Mar 23, 2010)

Hello Reverb geniuses, I've got a 2012 model that is about six months old, as of recent I've noticed that when the post is fully extended and I'm seated it will slowly sink. I usually have to hit the lever to pop it back up about every :30 seconds at that point it has droped about an inch. I've checked the air pressure, it was at 200psi after connecting the hose, I pumped it back up to 250psi but the problem still persists. Any ideas?


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

I have that happen to me on my 3rd ride with my Reverb. I pumped up the pressure then did a full bleed and it solved the issue. It's been 4 months now and it's still running smooth.


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## Wanny (Jul 30, 2011)

Captain Cobb said:


> Hello Reverb geniuses, I've got a 2012 model that is about six months old, as of recent I've noticed that when the post is fully extended and I'm seated it will slowly sink. I usually have to hit the lever to pop it back up about every :30 seconds at that point it has droped about an inch. I've checked the air pressure, it was at 200psi after connecting the hose, I pumped it back up to 250psi but the problem still persists. Any ideas?


Bleeding I think


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## Captain Cobb (Mar 23, 2010)

I'll have to give that a try, it came with a bleed kit, guess I'd better learn how to use it.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Yea, that sounds like it needs a bleed. It's a lot easier than ya think.


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## OldManBike (Apr 16, 2011)

The Good: my Reverb worked great out of the box and help up great for over a year of fairly heavy use.

The Not So Bad, Considering: it finally died a month ago.

The Seemed Good: took it to my shop, SRAM told them to send it in, they'd replace it with a new one.

The _Really _Frustrating: that was over a month ago. SRAM keeps saying it will be in real soon, and they keep being wrong. Two weeks ago SRAM said it would be in last week. Now: "next week."

Am I the only one stuck in limbo waiting for my post?


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## amrt (May 31, 2011)

Post year and a half old, last couple of weeks it developed the front to back play. Took it apart and the bushing in the top cap fell to pieces, the bushing material had just broken off the metal of the bush.
So after stumping up £40 for a new top cap, because you can't change the bushing:madman:
replaced it & some new seals from the service kit. Put it back together, pumped it up & would not hold air. Took it apart again & the main head seal had come unwound, (had been back a year ago for this problem) even though I had not touched it during the service.


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## amrt (May 31, 2011)

hmm have I got enough posts to put a pic?


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## Miniflexalex (May 14, 2011)

very interesting thread....thumbs up


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## Jackgardner (Sep 12, 2012)

Prices?


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## Jason419 (Jan 2, 2012)

Does anyone know where i can get my hands on a Reverb Stealth?? I need a 31.6mm version 100mm travel, 355mm length.

I searched everywhere I know on the internet that I know of with no luck.


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## xy9ine (Feb 2, 2005)

ignore post...


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

Jason419 said:


> Does anyone know where i can get my hands on a Reverb Stealth?? I need a 31.6mm version 100mm travel, 355mm length.
> 
> I searched everywhere I know on the internet that I know of with no luck.


I searched all over for 1 of these as well a few months ago; unless you're lucky enough to find one 2nd hand, I believe you have to have a retailer order it for you. Look on one of those "all over the country CL sites" - you may be lucky enough to find it, but it's a long-shot - good luck!


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Didn't SRAM say they're not available for retail and mainly meant for OEM? Try to get in touch with the knowledgeable guy at a local Trek dealer, or Scott dealer, or a dealer who sells bikes from whoever else specs Reverb stealths as standard equipment on their bikes.


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

Jason419 said:


> Does anyone know where i can get my hands on a Reverb Stealth?? I need a 31.6mm version 100mm travel, 355mm length....


Looks like there's only 125mm and 150mm, these guys have them in stock. Use "VIP15" coupon code for a 15% discount, free shipping too:
Universal Cycles -- Rock Shox Reverb Stealth Seatpost 2013


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## filegiant (Aug 1, 2004)

*New Reverb Frozen in Extended Postion*

I've got a brand-new 2012 Reverb. Out of the box, it would not drop. Did several bleeds on the system. Removed the hose at the post to see if there was an obstruction (none). Hose flows free when removed from post and attached to post with post bleed screw removed. Refilled system and bled again removing all the air. Now remote button is hydro-locked indicating to me there is no air bubbles, but the post's lowering mechanism is not being activated by the hydraulic pressure. Air pressure checked at 250 psi. Aside from sending it back for warranty, does anyone have any experience with this issue and a possible solution? Thanks.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

If you bought new, why not just return it/exchange it before messing with warranty?


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## filegiant (Aug 1, 2004)

Because I've had this happen before and I'd like to understand the cause and/or solution. Has anyone corrected this on their Reverb?


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## JohnJameson (Jun 3, 2009)

filegiant said:


> I've got a brand-new 2012 Reverb. Out of the box, it would not drop. Did several bleeds on the system. Removed the hose at the post to see if there was an obstruction (none). Hose flows free when removed from post and attached to post with post bleed screw removed. Refilled system and bled again removing all the air. Now remote button is hydro-locked indicating to me there is no air bubbles, but the post's lowering mechanism is not being activated by the hydraulic pressure. Air pressure checked at 250 psi. Aside from sending it back for warranty, does anyone have any experience with this issue and a possible solution? Thanks.


I'm in a similar situation, although there is some operator error on my part. I just got a Reverb off of ebay and it did not come with a manual. Looked over the directions online pretty quick and went down to the garage for the install. After setting it up, it would not budge, as stated above. Being an idiot (and used to my Kronolog on another bike), I thought that some air must need to come out. Let a little out and now it is worthless. Put some more air back in and did didn't change it at all. Won't really go up or down on its own. I then read the online instructions and saw that I should NEVER mess with the factory air pressure. Somehow missed this when I looked the first time. So, am I F'd? Does it need to go back to Sram? Can this be remedied in the confines of my own garage? Help me MTBR, you are my only hope.


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

Bah - those instructions are totally wrong. Most reverbs leak a little air, and they do have to be topped off from time to time. With the post UP, inflate to the 250psi it has on the valve cover. Then go to your local bike store and RMA the thing - or return it to the eBay seller.



JohnJameson said:


> . I then read the online instructions and saw that I should NEVER mess with the factory air pressure. Somehow missed this when I looked the first time. So, am I F'd? Does it need to go back to Sram? Can this be remedied in the confines of my own garage? Help me MTBR, you are my only hope.


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## schulzeee (Mar 11, 2011)

My new warranty replacement post took 4 weeks. However I was hooked on the dropper post concept AND I was disappointed in getting only 3 months out of my reverb. So I immediately ordered a Gravity Dropper (still going strong after 15 months) and got it a week later. My LBS graciously gave me a full store credit for the Reverb. I'm not looking back as much as I loved the smooth function of the Reverb.


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## galicano (Aug 9, 2011)

Pau11y said:


> Does anyone have rebuild instructions for this thing? Just want to take mine apart and lube everywhere. I wonder if it would be worth the effort to let the air out, core the valve, put in a few drops of 2wt into the air chamber, and charge it back up to 250? Seems w/ all these seals failing, there might not be enough grease where it counts. AND, with the way Fox and RS forks have been shipping w/ insufficient oil, I wouldn't mind going thru mine just to save me some down time...


there is an exploded view in the sram website and youtube instructions.


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## schulzeee (Mar 11, 2011)

Since my Reverb was replaced on warranty (and I went to the gravity dropper). I now have the bag of parts/oil that came with new Reverb. For the cost of postage I'd be willing to send it to someone who wants it. I'm in British Columbia if you're considering the cost of shipping.


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## galicano (Aug 9, 2011)

what's the dimension?


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## schulzeee (Mar 11, 2011)

galicano said:


> what's the dimension?


About 4'' x 2''x 7". padded envelope.


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## dabe (Apr 4, 2008)

*Reverb rebuild instructions*

I don't think this had been posted. Pinkbike recently posted links to the youtube videos put out by Rock Shox on how to refurbish the Reverb.

Too bad I can't post a URL due to my post count being too low... A google search for "pinkbike tech tuesday reverb" will give you the link.

It is good to see Rock Shox has posted how to work on them. Has anyone bought the official tools to work on the reverb?

David


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## katisse (Sep 25, 2012)

*help with reverb*

hello!

sorry if this has been covered. i just got a new reverb and it works perfectly EXCEPT- the actuator is FAR too difficult to press. It's 3 times harder than a front deralleur upshift and it's KILLING my thumb. I really like the concept of it! but my thumb is dying.....help!


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## John479 (Sep 25, 2012)

Should have my Reverb on Wednesday or Thursday. Will get it weighed and get the results up on here. Its going to be the 380mm 30.9mm version.


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## Calhoun (Nov 11, 2008)

katisse said:


> hello!
> 
> sorry if this has been covered. i just got a new reverb and it works perfectly EXCEPT- the actuator is FAR too difficult to press. It's 3 times harder than a front deralleur upshift and it's KILLING my thumb. I really like the concept of it! but my thumb is dying.....help!


Follow the bleed instructions, should help things out.


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## jane_135 (Sep 24, 2012)

Hello,

In a few days i'm going to buy a seatpost but i don't know if it will be the reverb 2012 with 420/125 travel or ks supernatural w/ remote 435/150 travel. Both of them with same price.

I'm a tall man and i'll have it at the top.

Anybody knows what to do?


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## raceface_lefty (Sep 11, 2010)

Go with the Reverb. It is the class leader in dropper posts. I'm 6'4" and use most of the travel when hitting the descent, I do find the full 5" is a bit much most of the time.

But the seatpost has transformed my riding.


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## The R (Apr 12, 2010)

My first reverb lasted a total of two months of riding three days a week, maybe two hours at a time. The seal blew. I got a replacement, and there was a different attachment at the top of the seat post where the line connects to the post. This one has lasted me about year now under the same riding conditions. Knock on wood -- no problems. I bled it for the first time the other day. Just an update.


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## katisse (Sep 25, 2012)

Calhoun said:


> Follow the bleed instructions, should help things out.


Thanks, I will! I only weigh about 160. Should I lower the air pressure as well?


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## jane_135 (Sep 24, 2012)

raceface_lefty said:


> Go with the Reverb. It is the class leader in dropper posts. I'm 6'4" and use most of the travel when hitting the descent, I do find the full 5" is a bit much most of the time.
> 
> But the seatpost has transformed my riding.


Thank You, I´m 6,2" too and I like to set the seatpost down bottom (About 15cms from body of the bike)

I´d like to set the remote on the left side but not on the top, it would be face down...

I´ve Shimano slx cassette and Avid Elixir 7 brakes

Do You think I could?

Thanks!


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## SpartanDano (Oct 13, 2005)

katisse said:


> the actuator is FAR too difficult to press. It's 3 times harder than a front deralleur upshift and it's KILLING my thumb. I really like the concept of it! but my thumb is dying.....help!


I've been having the exact same issue, I've had to start using my palm to press the actuator. Let me know if the bleed helps the problem.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

I have been loving this post since early summer but have now developed a problem I don't remember reading about since following this thread. The part of the post that houses the seat clamp and the hose nipple now rotates with respect the actual post which goes up and down.










In the picture, the junction I'm talking about is at the top of the post (the shiny black part) where it then is bonded to the matte black seat clamp mechanism. The seat/seat clamp can now be rotated with only a moderate rotational force applied with respect to the seat post itself.

Is this fixable or send it for warranty?

Thanks

Sent from my Galaxy S3

Edited:a bunch of phone autocorrect typos fixed...


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## sir_crackien (Feb 3, 2008)

yeap! that would be a warrenty issue. i cant remember but I think it is splined or screwed on and they use a bonding material to secure it on. I bet that material just broke down.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

sir_crackien said:


> yeap! that would be a warrenty issue. i cant remember but I think it is splined or screwed on and they use a bonding material to secure it on. I bet that material just broke down.


Dooh. I assumed so, but was hoping there was a fix. It's ridable for now, so I think I'll wait until the snow covers the trails before sending it in. I wonder if I can get some JB weld in there since their bond was obviously pretty weak. JB might be stronger, but I don't want to to void the warranty... :banghead:

Sent from my Galaxy S3


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## sir_crackien (Feb 3, 2008)

one other thing I will say is that if it is loose I would get it fixed ASAP. this is becasue the loose junction could wallow out the top of the post or head and make it impossiable to repair. just something to think about


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## JohnJameson (Jun 3, 2009)

JohnJameson said:


> I'm in a similar situation, although there is some operator error on my part. I just got a Reverb off of ebay and it did not come with a manual. Looked over the directions online pretty quick and went down to the garage for the install. After setting it up, it would not budge, as stated above. Being an idiot (and used to my Kronolog on another bike), I thought that some air must need to come out. Let a little out and now it is worthless. Put some more air back in and did didn't change it at all. Won't really go up or down on its own. I then read the online instructions and saw that I should NEVER mess with the factory air pressure. Somehow missed this when I looked the first time. So, am I F'd? Does it need to go back to Sram? Can this be remedied in the confines of my own garage? Help me MTBR, you are my only hope.


So I have tried putting more air back in, the 250 psi that is recomended, but when I try to unscrew my pump, I lose all the air. Also, the travel is stuck down to about 1" of its travel. If I try to pull it out to fully extended, it just sucks back down. So do I just need a new pump that can handle 250 psi? Even if I do get a better pump, how do I get it back to full extension? I can't find any email contact for SRAM on their website, and waited on hold for way to long when I called the only contact number listed. Thanks all.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

sir_crackien said:


> yeap! that would be a warrenty issue. i cant remember but I think it is splined or screwed on and they use a bonding material to secure it on. I bet that material just broke down.


You got me thinking. It did indeed feel like it was screwed on and broken free rather than splined and stripped. So, I rotated it looser almost a full turn (pushed the post down to get slack in the line), and sure enough I got a gap between the two parts. I put some medium loc-tite in there and tightened it up. Feels rock solid. It remains to be seen whether it will rotate on my next ride, but I honestly don't think it will. If it does, I can put stronger loc-tite next time.

I bet that the original bond broke free during a low-speed crash at gooseberry a few weeks ago. The seat twisted and I assumed it was the seat post twisting inside the seat tube, so I loosened the seat clamp and straightened it out. In reality it was probably the clamp twisting on the top of the seat post!

Sent from my Galaxy S3


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## schulzeee (Mar 11, 2011)

jane_135 said:


> Thank You, I´m 6,2" too and I like to set the seatpost down bottom (About 15cms from body of the bike)
> 
> I´d like to set the remote on the left side but not on the top, it would be face down...
> 
> ...


I started out with the remote on the left side and underneath the handle bar. It definitely worked but I didn't like having a third 'job' for my front brake hand to do. I had the same brake as you at the time.


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## trumpetinc (Feb 21, 2010)

Take the pump to your local SRAM dealer (most any bike shop). Have them confirm that when they put 250psi in it doesn't make any difference, then have them send it back to SRAM for warranty. It sounds to me like the valving inside is messed up.

you should also track down the seller on eBay and mod them down as hard as you can - they sold you crap.



JohnJameson said:


> So I have tried putting more air back in, the 250 psi that is recomended, but when I try to unscrew my pump, I lose all the air. Also, the travel is stuck down to about 1" of its travel. If I try to pull it out to fully extended, it just sucks back down. So do I just need a new pump that can handle 250 psi? Even if I do get a better pump, how do I get it back to full extension? I can't find any email contact for SRAM on their website, and waited on hold for way to long when I called the only contact number listed. Thanks all.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

*Another one bites the dust*

Absolutely loved my '12 reverb straight out of the box......for first 6 months. Then the dreaded day came. Post suddenly wouldn't spring back to full height...about 1.5" short, with another 1.5 of spongy feel when I sat on it.

Got back home, found air psi to be low, pumped back up to 250. Operated better but not 100% - still had about .5" of sponge. Next morning, back to worse, air psi down again. Went to SRAM.com for advice and a service manual. No manual, but a video. Call the Sram number to see if any technical enlightenment is in the cards. Got ahold of a tech pretty easily. But he downplays it telling me I probably just need to disassemble per video instructions, clean up the insides, and re-assemble. "Some crap probably just got in there". Probably don't even need spare parts. OK, sounds easy enough. My issue is pretty common to stuff I'm reading here, so I wanna know how to service it myself rather than send it in on warranty. Probably shouldn't have in hindsight.

On disassembly I find my bottom out o-ring comes out in a completely different order of that mentioned in the video (mine was above the spacer). Hmm, OK.

Next I see the inner bushing clearly failed. Saw at least one similar photo on this forum. Damn, time for a parts order. Down to my LBS.

After a few days of everyone trying to guess wether the simple seal kit would truly be "O-rings only" as stated, or if it actually included the inner bushing as it appears to show on the parts diagram, I just order both the minor seal kit as well as the full service kit. Turns out the minor seal kit is NOT "o-rings only" and does indeed come with the bushing.

OK, got my parts. Haven't been riding for about 3 weeks now, gettin kinda grumpy. Continue with video. I'm sure the female narration on the video is intended to calm my irritable demeanor, but she seems to lack reassurance. "Carefully slide outer seal head off over inner seal head". Easy enough. Wait, there's an o-ring that has popped out in one area that's in the way. An o-ring that doesn't even appear in the video. And it has gotten pushed out, under pressure I assume, into one of the three pin grooves machined inside the outer body, damaging it further. Damn. No sight or mention of the o-ring, and the video ends it's disassembly right there. Huh? Am I gonna get a face full of oil when I remove the inner seal head? I've gotta remove it to replace the o-ring. But does the o-ring even belong there?

Back on the phone to Sram tech. Spoke with Kyle. Nice enough kid, but absolutely no help - other than to tell me to google "reverb service videos" to find a more in-depth reverb service video, from Sram, on Youtube. How hard would it be to include this gem of info in the service section of your website, Sram?

Guess I'll be continuing my rebuild tonight, just me and Siri's little sister on Youtube.

Sram's technical help lacks the human "we care" touch. Communications with them reek of "large corporation".

I'm not having fun with my Reverb anymore.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

@Betard - great post!...though sorry that you had to write it.:madman:
Keep us posted - I would love to hear how it goes and keep seeing pics. I dread the day I will have to do it also, but I know where I'm going first when I do - your post. :thumbsup:

Good luck.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

Got some follow-up info. Turns out that o-ring (see pic) should indeed NOT be visible like it is, just like the video depicts. Upon further inspection, the cause of my failure is pretty clear. The inner seal head (silver aluminum part right of subject o-ring) had apparently slowly unthreaded itself over time, despite thread locking goop. Obviously it was never "tightened to a high torque value" as the video warns those of us who are about to remove it. The threadlocking goop was effective at masking from me the fact it had unthreaded at first glance, because it certainly felt tight. And the o-ring looks amazingly natural in it's current location, aside from the little bit that bulged into the pin slot (which I originally thought was the extent of the failure).

I suppose the slowly-turning seal head also contributed somehow to the early demise of the rubber coating on the inner bushing.

At least I now know exactly what failed. While on the phone with Kyle earlier, I offered to send him my photos with the hopes they could have product-evaluation value to Sram. He was clearly uninterested. And I don't even see an email address on their website that I could use. Pretty weak.

Onward with the re-build.


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## helexia23 (Jul 26, 2006)

*Shortened Hose - Won't Go Down on Fast Setting*

2012 Reverb shortening the hose.

I turned the barrel adjuster counter clockwise like Sram's video said. Unscrewed the barb. Cut the hose. Screwed back in barb. Now when I turn in barrel adjuster all the way + to its fastest setting it will not go down at all. All the way in the - slow setting it works perfect.

Any insight would be appreciated.


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## helexia23 (Jul 26, 2006)

helexia23 said:


> 2012 Reverb shortening the hose.
> 
> I turned the barrel adjuster counter clockwise like Sram's video said. Unscrewed the barb. Cut the hose. Screwed back in barb. Now when I turn in barrel adjuster all the way + to its fastest setting it will not go down at all. All the way in the - slow setting it works perfect.
> 
> Any insight would be appreciated.


Disregard, I bled the system and now it's fine.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

I'm back in the game! Reassembled my seatpost with the new seals last night, pumped it up to 250, it worked perfectly. Surprisingly, I didn't even have to bleed it.

Got up this morning, and it's holding air, working flawlessly. I think a proper ride is in order.


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## helexia23 (Jul 26, 2006)

Some photos of the new Reverb. Oh also I read some people having trouble mounting the actuator with XT levers/brakes. This setup is a left handed actuator mounted upside down on the right. Super clean and easy to reach - but doesn't get in the way either.


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## neil.beltchenko (May 29, 2011)

Guys, I broke my reverb button off from a crash! First off does it matter if i get a left or right assembly button! second, has anyone delt with this before? I assume ill need to bleed after i install the new button? any info would be great!


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## westeast (Nov 27, 2010)

neil.beltchenko said:


> Guys, I broke my reverb button off from a crash! First off does it matter if i get a left or right assembly button! second, has anyone delt with this before? I assume ill need to bleed after i install the new button? any info would be great!


yes, you'll have to bleed the system. It's not diffuclt, do a search for it. The crappy part is shelling out the $100 or so bucks for a new button. It at least comes with a new hose and some other little hardware bits.


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## jane_135 (Sep 24, 2012)

schulzeee said:


> I started out with the remote on the left side and underneath the handle bar. It definitely worked but I didn't like having a third 'job' for my front brake hand to do. I had the same brake as you at the time.


I think the best option is to get the left remote because if i buy the right remote and i'm not able to set it on the left side underneath I would have to set it near the remote shock all together...

Do You agree?


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## mytouch (Jun 14, 2010)

Hi everyone, i just bought the Rockshox Reverb last few days. Everything was going quite well, except the saddle clamp. I am facing a problem where my saddle keep shaking (a little bit), although the the bolts were tighten. This is quite weird as i didnt face this kind of problem when i am using my old seat post. At first i thought is the saddle problem, so i try to install my old saddle, but it's still the same. 

Is the shaking normal? or is the clamp/bolts problems? Please help, thanks.


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## mytouch (Jun 14, 2010)

Hi everyone, i just bought the Rockshox Reverb last few days. Everything was going quite well, except the saddle clamp. I am facing a problem where my saddle keep shaking (a little bit), although the the bolts were tighten. This is quite weird as i didnt face this kind of problem when i am using my old seat post. At first i thought is the saddle problem, so i try to install my old saddle, but it's still the same. 

Is the shaking normal? or is the clamp/bolts problems? Please help, thanks.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

helexia23 said:


> Some photos of the new Reverb. Oh also I read some people having trouble mounting the actuator with XT levers/brakes. This setup is a left handed actuator mounted upside down on the right. Super clean and easy to reach - but doesn't get in the way either.


Can you take 1 more photo that gives a better view of how far in the button ended up with respect to the large shifter paddle? Or if it is hard to capture in a photo, can you measure? I guess measure from the right (outer) edge of the large thumb shifter paddle to the right (outer) edge of the button. It just seems like it would be really far away....
Thanks


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## opiants (May 15, 2011)

Had to check something from the box today and found this piece. I always wondered where this would go. Anyone knows what's it for?


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## Torwood (Apr 25, 2011)

opiants said:


> Had to check something from the box today and found this part. I always wondered where this would go. Anyone knows what's it for?


guessing
some kind of blank for an Avid brake/shifter clamp so you can clamp your reverb button using some kind of match maker thing to to the shifter? or not.......


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## Calhoun (Nov 11, 2008)

If you don't run Avid brakes you put that in the bar clamp as a spacer.


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## opiants (May 15, 2011)

ha! A clamp spacer! I would have never known what it's for. Thanks for clearing that up.


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## dbabuser (Jan 5, 2004)

So anyone else broken a top cap (that houses the upper bushing and seals) on their reverb yet? I've ridden mine maybe 10 times before it cracked (vertical crack on the rear of the cap), and it's off to RS for warranty now. Still no word back what they're doing with it, so had to hunt up a rigid temporary post for the time being...


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

helexia23 said:


> ...This setup is a left handed actuator mounted upside down on the right. Super clean and easy to reach - but doesn't get in the way either....


Thanks for the tip, that works great. Tucks the actuator away from damage, allows a better position for my thumb and works just fine with existing shifter.



opiants said:


> ha! A clamp spacer! I would have never known what it's for. Thanks for clearing that up.


Thanks for asking, I was clueless. And I figured out the what/where for the hose guide by the seat clamp too!


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## BluPenguin (Oct 5, 2012)

Does anyone else experience some slight play in the reverb? both fore/aft and torsional? I've been beating up my reverb for about 3 months now, and it has developed a slight play that can only be felt while off the bike. It still feels rock solid while pedaling.


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## mikemikemike (Feb 10, 2008)

*Help: reverb inner stanchion twisting within the collar!*

Not sure if this is the best place to post this - please advise if not:

Looking for advice on an issue that surfaced with my reverb yesterday. Apologies for getting the terminology wrong!

The stanchion (?, inner tube to which the seat is attached that slides up and down) now twists within the collar with moderate force. Was riding a wheelie, for example, and the seat twisted. The binder bolt is tight, and I can twist the seat with my hands and watch that the collar at the top of the outer housing stays put without moving. This is 10-20 degree movements I'm talking about, and then I have to either twist it back, or loosen the seatpost binder bolt and move it back.

I thought there was a keylock mechanism to prevent this, so it's puzzling me that this could even happen at all - any thoughts as to what I need to do to fix this? Am I in danger of catastrophic failure on my long ride tomorrow?

Thanks!


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

If your inner post is truly able to turn, you've got something catastrophic going on because there are three pretty solid keys that keep the tube from twisting. However, I would think any type of failure with the keys, especially to the point of being able to twist the tube, would have impacted its ability to extend and retract, which sounds not to be the case.

Are you sure the twisting isn't occurring at the connection between the saddle rail cradle (the part connected to the top of the tube that the saddle rails sit in) and the inner tube. In other words, if you can twist your seat but not actually feel the tube turning, this is what's likely happening. This failure was recently documented here.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Betarad said:


> If your inner post is truly able to turn, you've got something catastrophic going on because there are three pretty solid keys that keep the tube from twisting. However, I would think any type of failure with the keys, especially to the point of being able to twist the tube, would have impacted its ability to extend and retract, which sounds not to be the case.
> 
> Are you sure the twisting isn't occurring at the connection between the saddle rail cradle (the part connected to the top of the tube that the saddle rails sit in) and the inner tube. In other words, if you can twist your seat but not actually feel the tube turning, this is what's likely happening. This failure was recently documented here.


^^ this, exactly. That was me that recently posted (see posts #1285 and 1290) about the top part that houses the saddle rail twisting on top of the telescoping tube. It basically just screws on the top. I unscrewed it almost a full revolution to create a large gap, added medium loctite into the gap, then tightened it up hard. I haven't had an issue since then.


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## mikemikemike (Feb 10, 2008)

Awesome, many thanks to both of you! 
I'll have a closer look when I get home, but it'd be great if that fixes the issue!!!



albertdc said:


> ^^ this, exactly. That was me that recently posted (see posts #1285 and 1290) about the top part that houses the saddle rail twisting on top of the telescoping tube. It basically just screws on the top. I unscrewed it almost a full revolution to create a large gap, added medium loctite into the gap, then tightened it up hard. I haven't had an issue since then.





Betarad said:


> If your inner post is truly able to turn, you've got something catastrophic going on because there are three pretty solid keys that keep the tube from twisting. However, I would think any type of failure with the keys, especially to the point of being able to twist the tube, would have impacted its ability to extend and retract, which sounds not to be the case.
> 
> Are you sure the twisting isn't occurring at the connection between the saddle rail cradle (the part connected to the top of the tube that the saddle rails sit in) and the inner tube. In other words, if you can twist your seat but not actually feel the tube turning, this is what's likely happening. This failure was recently documented here.


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## Midle Age Warrior (Nov 13, 2006)

Are you sure the stanchion is moving, or the piece where the seat is attached to the stanchion.
I got the same problem after a crash, the seat clamp moved since it is screwed to the stanchion I unscrew it to the point I felt to much resistance, and I can saw about 4mm of the thread then I put some epoxi glue and screw it again, let dry and that is all.
I am thinking in put a security bolt also but for now is just the glue I hope this help


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Midle Age Warrior said:


> Are you sure the stanchion is moving, or the piece where the seat is attached to the stanchion.
> I got the same problem after a crash, the seat clamp moved since it is screwed to the stanchion I unscrew it to the point I felt to much resistance, and I can saw about 4mm of the thread then I put some epoxi glue and screw it again, let dry and that is all.
> I am thinking in put a security bolt also but for now is just the glue I hope this help


That's similar to what I did (see above), though I used loc-tite instead of epoxy glue. If the seat clamp mechanism ever fails, I wanted to still be able to break the bond and unscrew it in order to replace that piece. If you use epoxy glue, you may never be able to undo it. Maybe that doesn't matter, but wanted to put it out there as food for thought.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

So my Reverb is still dropping in travel when fully extended (or any position really when not slammed), the drop is minimal, less than 3/4 of an inch, but still quite annoying to constantly lift up and press the button to get the right fully extended pedaling position. This doesn't happen always but definitely often. There are times when I'll slam it, raise it and it stays put. Other times I'll slam it, raise it, stays put but pedal some distance, raise my butt and if button is pressed, it will extend the the distance it has dropped.

Proper pressure isn't the problem it seems, I know for a fact I have 250 psi in there. There's only a few more rides for me this season before breaking down the bike for winter and maintenance and I guess I'll be sending it to SRAM for a look over (along with my creaking Fox 34 Float SMH).


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

It's still a mystery to me what exactly keeps the post locked in any given position. I suppose it's proprietary info that Sram wants to keep that way. The issue of my post dropping a few inches from my weight was completely attributed to my loss of seal and air pressure, as ever since re-sealing it it's holding air and working flawlessly again. Still, there's more involved than just the air psi keeping the post locked. Keep us posted on what the fix is, if Sram even tells you.


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

How often do you folks bleed your posts?

A month after getting my Reverb, it would sink when I sat on it so I bled it. It was working great for the past 6 months, and not it's starting to sink again.

Could this be an internal seal issue or bleeding every once in awhile is normal for it?


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## dustyduke22 (Aug 22, 2006)

*a little rough*

Just bought a bike that has a reverb on it. It has less than 100 miles on the post and I noticed that it has a little sticking point about half way through the stroke. Sometimes it returns to full height sometimes it sticks. Any thoughts?


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

dustyduke22 said:


> Just bought a bike that has a reverb on it. It has less than 100 miles on the post and I noticed that it has a little sticking point about half way through the stroke. Sometimes it returns to full height sometimes it sticks. Any thoughts?


too much seat post clamp tension.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

dustyduke22 said:


> Just bought a bike that has a reverb on it. It has less than 100 miles on the post and I noticed that it has a little sticking point about half way through the stroke. Sometimes it returns to full height sometimes it sticks. Any thoughts?


The first thing I'd check is to make sure it's not just clamped too tightly in the seatpost tube. The Reverb has proven a bit sensitive to this.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

dustyduke22 said:


> Just bought a bike that has a reverb on it. It has less than 100 miles on the post and I noticed that it has a little sticking point about half way through the stroke. Sometimes it returns to full height sometimes it sticks. Any thoughts?


My money is on this: your seat post clamp is too tight. That squeezes the stationary part of the seat tube and the telescoping part has resistance when it goes through the restricted area. Loosen your clamp a bit and see if works better. You may need friction paste to keep the seat post from moving once the clamp is looser.

Sent from my Galaxy S3


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

there you go....it's unanimous.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

albertdc said:


> My money is on this: your seat post clamp is too tight. That squeezes the stationary part of the seat tube and the telescoping part has resistance when it goes through the restricted area. Loosen your clamp a bit and see if works better. *You may need friction paste to keep the seat post from moving once the clamp is looser*.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy S3


But be careful of it creaking. I used Finish Line Carbon slip paste with my initial install and it took me half a season or riding and even going as far as buying a new clamp and hardware kit to stop my Reverb from creaking loudly whenever in the saddle.

With the paste and not enough torque on the Chromag QR and my post slipped constantly in the seat tube. Too much torque and it creaked so bad that I almost thought about returning to a Thomson post. :thumbsup:

First time dealing with the carbon paste and it truly has been a bad experience. 

Cleaned up my seat tube from the carbon slip paste, cleaned the Reverb, applied a little Red Devil grease and my QR is tight enough that my post now never slips. Ever. And it operates smoothly as well.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Betarad said:


> there you go....it's unanimous.


Seriously - 3 simultaneous posts, all with the same answer! :thumbup:

Sent from my Galaxy S3


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## BluPenguin (Oct 5, 2012)

Followup on my Reverb. After a ride yesterday I noticed the seatpost dropping down about an inch or so when weight is put on it. A quick google suggested to check air pressure. My shock pump read less than 100 psi when I filled it to 250 not a month ago. After a quick fill, I could actually hear air leaking out. I checked anyway to see if that fixed the dropping down issue, to find the post is now completely stuck, won't budge an inch with all my weight on it, with or without air. 

For the record the post has been used for a little over 4 months, although it did see some pretty heavy use during that period. Will contact SRAM on monday.


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

*Which service kit?*

How does one know whether they need a basic service kit or the full kit?

My post will settle about 1/4" when I put my body weight on it but then it's solid. This started after several hundred rides. Will the basic seat post o'ring kit solve this problem or is it an issue with the IFP?.


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## BluPenguin (Oct 5, 2012)

MarkHL said:


> How does one know whether they need a basic service kit or the full kit?
> 
> My post will settle about 1/4" when I put my body weight on it but then it's solid. This started after several hundred rides. Will the basic seat post o'ring kit solve this problem or is it an issue with the IFP?.


I think it is the IFP or some kind of valve failure. As my post just started doing that, and I traced it back to an air leak, which, after refilling the air, caused a complete bind of the post. I have yet to contact SRAM about it, but I think it's much more than what the basic service will fix.


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## kroe (Mar 30, 2009)

Got a good deal on a 2011 380x125 reverb, decided to swap the parts needed into my 2012 420x125 to save some weight. 

Note: this was a HUGE pain. It took hours, I rebuild forks all the time, this is way more touchy to get right. Don't do it unless your post is broken.

The only differences between the 380 and 420 are the inner piston (shorter shaft) and the outer black tube. Everything else is interchangeable. 

The only differences between the 2011 and 2012 are a grey coating on the inner piston shaft for the 2012 vs a gold on the 2011, and what looks like pipe dope on all the threaded connections on the 2012 (this is likely the main reason the newer ones are more reliable).

I used the upper tube from the 2012 with the lower tube from the 2011. It worked fine, but the logo no longer lines up. They must have moved the position of the keys relative to the seat position. 

The bleed instructions are good. The hard part is getting the top plug thing in with enough fluid under it to prevent an air bubble, but not too much fluid otherwise it won't go down enough to fit the cap and snap ring.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

kroe said:


> The only differences between the 2011 and 2012 are a grey coating on the inner piston shaft for the 2012 vs a gold on the 2011, and what looks like pipe dope on all the threaded connections on the 2012 (this is likely the main reason the newer ones are more reliable.


Interesting about the pipe dope. My 2012 failed with an air pressure loss due to the inner seal head somehow unscrewing itself from the inner shaft until its o-ring finally popped out. This was despite having the pipe dope on its threads. During the rebuild, I found it difficult to hold the inner shaft tight enough to be able to tighten the seal head to spec. I just hope I got it tight enough.

I'm trying to understand how there is any rotating force against the inner seal head that would cause the unscrewing. The inner shaft is keyed to the outer, so none of that rotates. Does the inner piston shaft rotate as it moves in and out of the inner seal head? I don't think it does, but could be wrong. My inner seal head was unscrewed about 4 or 5 full rotations, I just can't imagine this happening simply from vibration, especially with the pipe dope.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

BluPenguin said:


> Followup on my Reverb. After a ride yesterday I noticed the seatpost dropping down about an inch or so when weight is put on it. A quick google suggested to check air pressure. My shock pump read less than 100 psi when I filled it to 250 not a month ago. After a quick fill, I could actually hear air leaking out. I checked anyway to see if that fixed the dropping down issue, to find the post is now completely stuck, won't budge an inch with all my weight on it, with or without air.
> 
> For the record the post has been used for a little over 4 months, although it did see some pretty heavy use during that period. Will contact SRAM on monday.


Your symptoms sound identical to my recent failure, with the exception of the total lock-up. Kind of sounds like yours went a step further. Perhaps your inner seal head has come completely unscrewed from the shaft and is now lodged in there. Hard to imagine though, I would think loss of air pressure would occur long before the seal head becomes completely unscrewed.

Another thing I found upon disassembly was the initial disintegration of the inner seal head bushing, which seems to be another effect of the seal head rotating loose. Perhaps yours has disintegrated to the point of lock-up.

I guess the only way you'll know the cause for sure is to disassemble it yourself, but I don't recommend it. Get it back to Sram, it sounds like yours may have some seriously damaged parts.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

MarkHL said:


> How does one know whether they need a basic service kit or the full kit?
> 
> My post will settle about 1/4" when I put my body weight on it but then it's solid. This started after several hundred rides. Will the basic seat post o'ring kit solve this problem or is it an issue with the IFP?.


Is your air pressure low? If so, you have a leak that the basic kit will probably fix. The basic kit says o-rings only, but it does come with the inner seal head bushing also, which takes you into disassembly as far as most people really want to go anyway. As kroe mentions, it gets pretty tricky after this (I'll take his word on this, especially after viewing the video instructions).

Although I'm not real clear on when its really called for, a bleed might solve your issue. I would try this if your air pressure appears normal.


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## BluPenguin (Oct 5, 2012)

Betarad said:


> Your symptoms sound identical to my recent failure, with the exception of the total lock-up. Kind of sounds like yours went a step further. Perhaps your inner seal head has come completely unscrewed from the shaft and is now lodged in there. Hard to imagine though, I would think loss of air pressure would occur long before the seal head becomes completely unscrewed.
> 
> Another thing I found upon disassembly was the initial disintegration of the inner seal head bushing, which seems to be another effect of the seal head rotating loose. Perhaps yours has disintegrated to the point of lock-up.
> 
> I guess the only way you'll know the cause for sure is to disassemble it yourself, but I don't recommend it. Get it back to Sram, it sounds like yours may have some seriously damaged parts.


Okay so I still don't know what's wrong with it, but SRAM (through my dealer), has agreed to send me a new post. The catch is I'm not going to get it until December. Apparently SRAM already realized the failures, and they're working on a new model, which will be available around then to be sent out.


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## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

Betarad said:


> Is your air pressure low


No, the IFP is holding 250 psi; the post (when new) would settle about .010-.020 under my weight (165#), it's just progressively gotten worse over the course of about 375 rides.
I suspect the IFP has lost a bit of fluid through the seals and that's at the heart of the problem.


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## kroe (Mar 30, 2009)

The inner seal head shouldn't rotate, but for whatever reason it is prone to unscrewing, my theory is that the inner sea head unscrewing is the primary failure mode for these posts. Two of the three failed reverbs I have rebuilt had loosened up at that point. Surprised it loosened up with the new goop they put on there. I'd use loctite. 

It could be pressure in the chamber not rotation that causes it to unscrew. Not sure why this would unscrew but suspension forks with similar pressure and threaded connections would not, but its a theory.


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## katisse (Sep 25, 2012)

Need some help with setup of my Reverb. The return speed was nice and quick before (the way i wanted it to be) but it was DAMN hard to press the actuator. Someone said to bleed it. It has now had a proper bleed on it but it's still very hard to press AND- even with the barrel adjuster all the way turned, the return is too slow! Not crazy slow but not nearly as crisp and i'd like. So now it's worse. Any suggestions? thanks!


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## dorkboy (Apr 25, 2006)

After 5 months and tons of riding, mine started to sag this past week. Checked the psi, it was fine. 
Luckily for me, I bought it at MEC and they stand behind everything they sell for life. Within 10 minutes, the new one is on my bike. 

I love the reverb, its a great seatpost and I love MEC too for their warranty.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

dorkboy said:


> After 5 months and tons of riding, mine started to sag this past week. Checked the psi, it was fine.
> Luckily for me, I bought it at MEC and they stand behind everything they sell for life. Within 10 minutes, the new one is on my bike.
> 
> I love the reverb, its a great seatpost and I love MEC too for their warranty.


See, that's exacltly what's wrong with mine, sags at 250 psi. And it was the reason why I bought mine at REI for their return policy, only now to find out they don't carry the Reverb at all anymore. :madman: I can either return it to them or send in for warranty to SRAM. I wish I could simply exchange mine and be on my way.


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## Silverfern (Oct 24, 2012)

Hi, I know little about these , but have ridden bikes with them and know I want one , have seen this online for $200 
]Rock Shox Reverb 100mm Dropper Seatpost 30.9x420 RC

Is this a good- one, it seems cheap ,is it an old model ? Is that why it is cheap ? Would I be better spending more ? I have a 2012 Rumblefish, would it be compatible ?

The 2013 model Rumblefish now comes with one , this one , RockShox Reverb, 31.6mm, zero offset,

How do they compare? Which one would you recommend for my bike ?

Any help appreciated


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

The one you listed is 30.9mm diameter, the Rumblefish uses a 31.6mm seat post.

It won't be compatible with your Rumblefish, unless you shim the seatpost (which I wouldn't really advise as you need to clamp it lightly to avoid issues with the post sticking).


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## dbabuser (Jan 5, 2004)

I saw that ad for the closeout Reverbs yesterday, and as of then, the 30.9's were more expensive, but they still had 31.6 for that price.


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## RASER (Jul 7, 2008)

If your on the taller size, you would probably want at least a 125mm range of adjustment. Perhaps this is also why the 100mm is less expensive.


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## Silverfern (Oct 24, 2012)

thanks for your help , I almost ordered the wrong thing


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## Silverfern (Oct 24, 2012)

How would this one go

Rock Shox Reverb 125mm Dropper Seatpost 31.6x380 RC


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## Silverfern (Oct 24, 2012)

Excuse my ignorance I know little about them , but what is the difference between the two,

Rock Shox Reverb Adjustable Seatpost 31.6 125mm


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

The ads are definitely a bit confusing. The only significant difference I can see is the more expensive one comes with a left-hand remote, the less expensive one is the more common right hand remote. Both appear to be 2012 versions.

There's rumor that there may be an updated version in the works, to address lingering issues with the 2012. Perhaps this is partly the reason for the sale pricing.


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## Midle Age Warrior (Nov 13, 2006)

Did you bleed it with the right fluid? if so check the line, I found once the line was smashed causing the same behavior 
Hope this help


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## Silverfern (Oct 24, 2012)

One more question , im now aware the 125 mm range is more suited to the taller rider, 

But What is the significant difference between that one and the 100mm , at what point does a rider become more suited to one or the other ? if you get my drift . 

Im probably considered fairly average , 5 11 and ride a 19 inch bike .

Thanks


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## Calhoun (Nov 11, 2008)

Make two measurements of your current seatpost:

Climbing height 
Descending height

Subtract one from the other and decide.


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## RASER (Jul 7, 2008)

If you like to fully lower your seat for terranical downhill sections to keep from getting bucked off the bike, then you'll want the most adjustability /capacity to lower your seat. 

Just check that the seat does not rise higher then your maximum riding height. With 5" of adjust, plus around 3 inches of minimum lowest position ability, you'll probably need at least 8 inches of post exposed from the bike frame to the seat rails to use a 125mm adjust system. Otherwise you'll want the 100mm.

Cheers,


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## VFRLuke (Aug 14, 2012)

I'm in the market for a dropper post, and I read in a few places that the Reverb was the way to go. I will be honest though...you guys are scaring me.

Are dropper posts in general just that unreliable?

Anyway, I have a rumblefish elite on order with SLX shifters and brakes. Would that setup allow for the Right hand button upside down on the left side?


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## Silverfern (Oct 24, 2012)

OK...... deepest apologies for being a bit slow , this is all new to me, just want to make sure Ive got this right, but the way I see it the 100mm may be the safer bet , 

My current seated position at normal riding height has around 210 mm of seat post exposed , If I lower that by 100 mm, Im pretty sure im low enough for the riding I do , 

If I look at the 125mm option , and then look at the lowest possible setting of putting the seat down ( depending what that is exactly ) , and add on the 125mm , I may be cutting it fine for my normal 210mm riding height . 

Am I on the right track ? 

Cheers and thanks for all your help so far !!!


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

Question for the Rockshox owners out there - How long is the outer tube on the 420 and 380 models? I'm considering getting one but I'm worried that it will be too long at the bottom and interfere with the rear shock on my 07 SJ.

-S


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Anyone got a fix for the post dropping about 10mm when fully extended when you put your weight on it? Checked air pressure, which is fine.


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

Have you tried doing a full bleed? That solved my issues.


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## Elliott_MBR (Sep 30, 2008)

Good evening, I've been a member for many years and havn't needed to ask any questions as I've found them all before asking. So I'm calling on your knowledge people!

I brought my Reverb earlier this year brand new and havn't needed to bleed it since fitting. On recent rides I've pulled up on the seat to lift the bike and found that its not locked in position and pulls up. I can't remember this happening from new. 

Could anyone advise me what to do, as i havn't found any fault finding information and reasons to bleed it other than guides.

Many thanks, Elliott.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Elliott_MBR said:


> Good evening, I've been a member for many years and havn't needed to ask any questions as I've found them all before asking. So I'm calling on your knowledge people!
> 
> I brought my Reverb earlier this year brand new and havn't needed to bleed it since fitting. On recent rides I've pulled up on the seat to lift the bike and found that its not locked in position and pulls up. I can't remember this happening from new.
> 
> ...


Some people will tell you to bleed the post, but the manual itself says that it is normal behavior. I've had it happen to my post, seemingly randomly, over the summer. I don't know why sometimes it pulls up and other times it will lift the bike while retracted. As long as everything else works fine, don't worry about it since the instructions say it is normal.

Sent from my Galaxy S3


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

mikkosan said:


> Have you tried doing a full bleed? That solved my issues.


Tried a full bleed. Still does it.


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## Elliott_MBR (Sep 30, 2008)

albertdc said:


> Some people will tell you to bleed the post, but the manual itself says that it is normal behavior. I've had it happen to my post, seemingly randomly, over the summer. I don't know why sometimes it pulls up and other times it will lift the bike while retracted. As long as everything else works fine, don't worry about it since the instructions say it is normal.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy S3


Thanks for your reply. Wish i could remember if it did it from new.

Anyone else's do this?


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

Mine did this on a few occasions, in fact I noticed that it did this a few weeks prior to the loss-of-air-pressure failure I recently went through. Still not sure if the two were related, I don't think so really. But it hasn't done it since my rebuild.


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## VFRLuke (Aug 14, 2012)

artscyclery has some 2012 reverbs for $199. They did have the one I need, but I don't have my bike yet, so I had to wait for trek to email me back with what length post I needed and by the time i got the email back the deal was gone 

Looks like they still have the 31.6 100mm x420 in a right hand remote still


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Can anyone tell me what if any the differences are between a 2012 and a 2013 Reverb?


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## jij0226 (Jan 31, 2012)

> artscyclery has some 2012 reverbs for $199. They did have the one I need, but I don't have my bike yet, so I had to wait for trek to email me back with what length post I needed and by the time i got the email back the deal was gone
> 
> Looks like they still have the 31.6 100mm x420 in a right hand remote still


Just bought my second one from these guys. $200 for the reverb's functionality is a no brainer. And two reverbs is a must have if you're into all mtn and freeride on one rig.

Merry christmas to me


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## VFRLuke (Aug 14, 2012)

I ended up buying a 100mm drop for the $200. Not exactly what I wanted, but hard to pass up at that price.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Well, my 2011 Reverb lasted a full season before it puked its internals. My 2012 warranty replacement lasted just as long.

Any requests for photos as I tear it down and rebuild? I know further back in this thread I saw a decent write up on a rebuild. I know SRAM is too lazy to offer service doc's for this. Thanks SRAM!


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## kroe (Mar 30, 2009)

SRAM finally posted the IFP bleed procedure. Their instructions are perfect, and it is very hard to get it right any other way.

Reverb seatpost service - part 3 - YouTube


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Fantastic! Thanks for that!


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

car_nut said:


> Well, my 2011 Reverb lasted a full season before it puked its internals. My 2012 warranty replacement lasted just as long.
> 
> Any requests for photos as I tear it down and rebuild? I know further back in this thread I saw a decent write up on a rebuild. I know SRAM is too lazy to offer service doc's for this. Thanks SRAM!


Photos are always appreciated, especially of the failed bits.


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## GeoffWy (Dec 3, 2012)

Does anyone know what's new in the 2013 reverb versus the 2012? Is it worth paying the extra for the 2013 version?


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## onlyzenki (Jun 10, 2012)

hey everyone, i just recently tried to install a reverb stealth on my trek slash but have been unsuccessful. I was able to install the seat post, however, the bleeding has been a pain in the ass. Every time i attempt to pass fluid from the remote to the seat, i get leaks from the syringes! Anybody have any tips? I'm following the sram videos online. Worst case scenario ill take it to the lbs for install and bleed. Just wanted to see if anyone had any advice before dropping more $ for what seems to be an easy install.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

onlyzenki said:


> hey everyone, i just recently tried to install a reverb stealth on my trek slash but have been unsuccessful. I was able to install the seat post, however, the bleeding has been a pain in the ass. Every time i attempt to pass fluid from the remote to the seat, i get leaks from the syringes! Anybody have any tips? I'm following the sram videos online. Worst case scenario ill take it to the lbs for install and bleed. Just wanted to see if anyone had any advice before dropping more $ for what seems to be an easy install.


Honestly, sounds like user error - what do you mean leaks?
The vids are pretty straight forward.


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## onlyzenki (Jun 10, 2012)

im pretty sure it is user error. the syringes leak from what i believe is the red plastic that connects the tube. It leaks when i try to pass fluid back and forth from one syringe to the other while providing pressure on one and a vacuum on the other.


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

onlyzenki said:


> im pretty sure it is user error. the syringes leak from what i believe is the red plastic that connects the tube. It leaks when i try to pass fluid back and forth from one syringe to the other while providing pressure on one and a vacuum on the other.


Where on the red plastic adaptor does it leak from? The hose side or the syringe side? I use a zip tie on the hose side to tighten the hose against the red nipple, and make sure to screw in the adaptor properly into the syringe.

-S


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## GoingOffRoading (Oct 16, 2011)

Scanned through the 50+ pages and wanted to run this consensus past you guys... 

For the 2012 125mm Reverb:

If you'd like to ride gravity and want that seat to be as close to the frame as possible, grab the 380mm version.

If you're taller or prefer very tall seat heights, grab the 420mm?

Correct?

------------------

Also any preference between left and right version?


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

GoingOffRoading said:


> Scanned through the 50+ pages and wanted to run this consensus past you guys...
> 
> For the 2012 125mm Reverb:
> 
> ...


Yes, length is dependent on your frame and also your height. Some frames can't take a long seatpost and so you may need a shorter one. Then again, I think the 125mm/380mm Reverbs are being phased out - can't seem to find many of them for sale these days, except used or old models.

Left and right will depend on your personal preference and what's on your bike currently. I have the fork lockout on my right so the other available spot for the seat remote is on the left.

-S


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

GoingOffRoading said:


> Scanned through the 50+ pages and wanted to run this consensus past you guys...
> 
> For the 2012 125mm Reverb:
> 
> ...


Some people need that 420mm to make it safe to run in their frames, due to minimum insertion requirements (ex. for a person who has very long legs and likes small frames). People get 380mm otherwise, for weight savings and less waste. The bottom most part of the seat post should extend past the area where the top-tube meets the seat tube.

Left/right only refers to which side/hand the remote is designed for. I have little doubt that the right side is most popular. If people don't run a front shifter, then they can run the "right-hand" remote upside-down, under the bar, on the left side, which I think is the best place.

I'm currently on a 125mm 380mm right version (1st gen) that's been working fine ever since I got it. Only bled it once so far in over a year, when I trimmed the line. I don't leave it sitting unused for long periods of time, so it doesn't really have time to run into funny issues from simply sitting around.


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## mtb-ripper (Jul 30, 2010)

Scanned all 50 pages and didn't find the exact issue I'm having - While extended fully the post has a slight (maybe 3mm) amount of free play where it moved up and down by hand making a 'clunking' noise. Aside from this issue it works fine, though when you sit on the seat it has that tiny amount of sink. Strange though as it does not appear to be the hydro system, which has been bleed a handful of times trying to remedy this.

Thanks


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## FreeRidin' (Dec 26, 2006)

Can anyone tell me the MAX SEAT HEIGHT for a 125mmx380mm Reverb?

...Post inserted to its MINIMUM insertion depth with full extension.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Just take away 80mm or 85mm from the total post length, as that's what the MIN insertion depth is for the Reverb, but IMO, I wouldn't run less than 100mm inserted into the frame.


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

I need help, I just got a reverb as part of a trade deal. The only thing is that when he sent the post off to sram to get rebuilt he took the bolts out. Well in that amount of time the metal pieces that the bolts screw into have vanished. I am looking for some help on where I can find them or order new bolt set up. Anyone know anything?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

^ You need SRAM part number 11.6815.006.010 (Post Clamp Kit Reverb). Price is S21.95 and your LBS should be able to order it without a problem for you, took a week for mine to get here when I was trying to track down a creaking on my Reverb this season.

Or buy online here.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Would a simple barrel nut from the hardware store not suffice?


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## NCFC99 (Dec 16, 2012)

I have had a problem develop on my reverb today. I went to use the bike and the rubber boot has sliped off at the remoted end and there is oil leaking from around the button shaft from the body of the remote. Any one have any ideas what the problem is?


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Got the Reverb back from warranty today. Repaired, not replaced, but it looks fine and feels great. Hopefully it holds up!


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## quasi_shawn (Mar 17, 2005)

*minimum exposed seatpost length for reverb*

I'm thinking about getting a dropper post, but my exposed seatpost length on my bike is pretty short. It is 6.5 inches from top of seat collar to the bottom of the post clamp head, about 7.25 inches from the top of the seat collar to the seat rails at the center the post. My current post is zero offset like the reverb. I probably can/will have my max seat height with the dropper about 0.5 inch higher than this current height. Will a reverb work for this w/out being too tall? Is the 100 mm travel version shorter from the 'collar' of the reverb post to the clamp head, or does it just move less? If it is shorter, would the 100 mm version be a better choice for my bike set-up, or could I still use the 125 mm version without having my fully extended seat height being too tall for me? Insertion depth into my frame is not an issue; my frame is a large w/a full lenght seat tube, and you can completely slam down a standard 400 mm seat post.


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## VFRLuke (Aug 14, 2012)

Sounds to me like the 100mm will be your best option. And yes the distance between the collars is less on the 100mm version.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

I measured 188mm (7.4 inches), from seat clamp to seat rail for the 125mm dropper post on my bike. So that will be pushing it for you depending on how much higher you truly are willing to put your seat. Personally, I think you will be OK - I couldn't believe how much higher I put my seat once I got the dropper.
Assuming the design is otherwise the same, the 100mm version should put you at 163 mm (6.4 inches) which will of course leave you plenty of leeway. I guess it depends on availability and how aggressively you want to be able to lower your seat. I have probably never used my whole 120mm of drop, but certainly know people who have.

Good luck. Hope my measurements don't steer you wrong! 



Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2


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## quasi_shawn (Mar 17, 2005)

Thanks for the info Albertdc! I think from your measurement, 125 version will be OK. I tried that height w/my current post and it felt good.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

You're welcome. I remeasured and got 190mm to the center of the seat rails. 

The dropper post and carbon wheels ("cheap Chinese rims" on Hope Pro II hubs) are the two best upgrades I've ever done on a bike. :thumbup:

Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2


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## LGavin (Jul 18, 2011)

Are the reverbs stealth released already? I'm planning to get a dropper post soon and still thinking what to buy and some friends have told me to just wait for the stealths as they are more durable/reliable than the previous models.any truth in this?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Gotta love SRAM's customer service. Not. :skep:

Dropped of my 2012 Reverb at LBS to have sent for warranty last week and got a call back today. SRAM doesn't want to see my post at all. _*They can magically diagnose the problem it seems without evening touching it.*_ My problem was that it sags in travel a few centimeters, started happening at the end of last season. Even after a full rebleed. I started riding in May, weekends only, and problem started in September. That's 5 months of riding, hardly a full season of hard riding for it to go broke so quickly.

SRAM ran my serial number, no Reverbs from that production batch came back for warranty and said they aren't taking mine back either. WTF. They said like any other suspension product it requires maintenance, 50 hrs/6 months for basic rebuild (kit costs under $10) or 100 hrs/1 year for a full rebuild (kit costs under $50).

All they offered was to send the basic rebuild kit to my LBS and that's it. LBS wants $50 to perform the service. I think I'll try my chances doing it myself first after watching a few vids, can't be rocket science.

OR simply return the post to REI (original place of purchase), save myself about $100 (as I paid close to $350 for it), and buy a new Reverb for ± $250 and ride another year.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

eurospek said:


> Gotta love SRAM's customer service. Not. :skep:
> 
> Dropped of my 2012 Reverb at LBS to have sent for warranty last week and got a call back today. SRAM doesn't want to see my post at all. _*They can magically diagnose the problem it seems without evening touching it.*_ My problem was that it sags in travel a few centimeters, started happening at the end of last season. Even after a full rebleed. I started riding in May, weekends only, and problem started in September. That's 5 months of riding, hardly a full season of hard riding for it to go broke so quickly.
> 
> ...


OK, that is a bummer. My experiences with SRAM have been just the opposite. I've had 4 reverbs replaced by them now with the most recent being a few months ago for the same issue you are having now.

1. Use your LBS. You might talk to SRAM through the 800 number, but they won't deal with you.
2. Be persistent and remain kind. I took SRAM up on their offer of the rebuild kit, but that didn't fully resolve the problem. When the LBS couldn't perform a full rebuild sucessfully, I wasn't charged and SRAM sent out a new post.

SRAM is worlds above many in the bike industry in taking care of paying customers. I'm sure you can get this taken care of, just use your LBS for service and work through the official channels.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

^ So the basic rebuild kit didn't take care of your sagging problem? My LBS isn't exactly close (25 miles one way) plus I didn't buy it through them but REI (but they are definitely taking care of me by attempting this warranty). I already contacted REI but they are not expecting any Reverbs in what I need (420x31.6x125 R). 

And I did call SRAM after talking with my LBS, I asked under what circumstances will they physically take it back for warranty purposes, but the guy made it sound like 90% of all warranty repairs is handled by the LBS, they just send parts out, seems kinda lazy on their part. They diagnose the problem with the LBS tech, but the tech doesn't know any more than what I told him. 

I'll try the rebuild kit myself, if not, I'm simply going to return it to REI and pick up a new one somewhere else. I'm not going to waste my time driving back and forth to the LBS while they diagnose it over the phone. Or be out $50 on having the LBS rebuild it, only to have it still sag. What hurts the most is that I'm in Chicago daily, I can drop off my Reverb myself to them. :madman:


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## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

CharacterZero said:


> OK, that is a bummer. My experiences with SRAM have been just the opposite. I've had 4 reverbs replaced by them now with the most recent being a few months ago for the same issue you are having now.
> 
> 1. Use your LBS. You might talk to SRAM through the 800 number, but they won't deal with you.
> 2. Be persistent and remain kind. I took SRAM up on their offer of the rebuild kit, but that didn't fully resolve the problem. When the LBS couldn't perform a full rebuild sucessfully, I wasn't charged and SRAM sent out a new post.
> ...


Great customer service from SRAM also. I have had two warranty issues with Reverb posts and both times I was sent a new one. The first lasted almost one year and the second about six months. Post was purchased from local LBS and warrantied through them.

I would be cautious about trying to rebuild the post yourself. Getting the end / valve off of the inner shaft is not as easy as it looks in the video with the soft jaw vise. Too bad SRAM did not design those parts to be dis-assembled with a couple of wrenches. The rebuild would be easy if that was the case.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

eurospek said:


> ^ So the basic rebuild kit didn't take care of your sagging problem? My LBS isn't exactly close (25 miles one way) plus I didn't buy it through them but REI (but they are definitely taking care of me by attempting this warranty). I already contacted REI but they are not expecting any Reverbs in what I need (420x31.6x125 R).
> 
> And I did call SRAM after talking with my LBS, I asked under what circumstances will they physically take it back for warranty purposes, but the guy made it sound like 90% of all warranty repairs is handled by the LBS, they just send parts out, seems kinda lazy on their part. They diagnose the problem with the LBS tech, but the tech doesn't know any more than what I told him.
> 
> I'll try the rebuild kit myself, if not, I'm simply going to return it to REI and pick up a new one somewhere else. I'm not going to waste my time driving back and forth to the LBS while they diagnose it over the phone. Or be out $50 on having the LBS rebuild it, only to have it still sag. What hurts the most is that I'm in Chicago daily, I can drop off my Reverb myself to them. :madman:


I think they did the full rebuild kit, but I'm not sure.

I wouldn't have had 4 reverbs already if the LBS could fix'm. I don't know of one that has been sucessfully fixed by the LBSs from my ride crew.

Yeah, sag is unacceptable.

Good luck!


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

bubba13 said:


> I would be cautious about trying to rebuild the post yourself.


You weren't kidding. Just finished watching the full rebuild 4 part video , lots and lots of o-rings. Looks doable but then again the farthest I've ever been in the suspension world is just new fluids or a simple brake bleed. Knowing myself, something would go wrong somewhere lol.



CharacterZero said:


> Good luck!


Thanks, it just irks me to read people's experiences with SRAM have been the complete opposite of mine so far. Love my Reverb to death and will not ride without one now, but so far on the CS end (especially for what they are charging for the product), I'm left feeling a bit sour.

IMO nothing compares to FOX CS service. You send in a fork for a creaking CSU, and you get it returned with a new CSU, complete service done on it, and brand new seals. But most importantly, no middle man to deal with.


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## federa (Mar 6, 2010)

*Stealth Hose Barb & Fitting Measurement?*

Have few questions for 150x430mm Stealth owners that I haven't been able to find despite searches - sorry if answered before. 30.9dia is ideal, but I'd guess the fitments are the same across both sizes.

Can someone confirm how far out the hose connector & barb protector protrude from the bottom of the post? 
Am I right in assuming that they do not contribute to the 430mm length? 
What is the measurement from full extension rails to end of the hose barb?

For context, I have an 09 Felt Compulsion with a funky interrupted seat tube, and the weld hole at the bottom would be perfect for a Stealth - but only if the fittings & hose barb are short enough to stay out of the way of the tube 'trapezoid' (for lack of a better term...). My 420mm Reverb suggests that I have ~20mm to play with tube-wise before bottoming out, so it's probably going to be a tight fit, if it's even possible. :madman: "2009.feltracing.com/09/images/catalog/xl/9057.png" shows the seat tube in question.

Thanks in advance!
fed


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## redmr2_man (Jun 10, 2008)

anyone have shaft play on their reverb?

I have a 2012, bought new, and the saddle had a tiny bit of side to side slop when I got it. That's to be expected. However, two rides in, it's worse. And now the whole "stanchion" flexs into the bottom of the reverb when I pedal. I'm ~200lbs, is this normal?

Kinda hard to diagnose w/o seeing it, but curious if anyone had this problem.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

redmr2_man said:


> anyone have shaft play on their reverb?
> 
> I have a 2012, bought new, and the saddle had a tiny bit of side to side slop when I got it. That's to be expected. However, two rides in, it's worse. And now the whole "stanchion" flexs into the bottom of the reverb when I pedal. I'm ~200lbs, is this normal?
> 
> Kinda hard to diagnose w/o seeing it, but curious if anyone had this problem.


Make sure your collar is tight - the silver or black one that threads down. Not the one that clamps your seat tube/post.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

My 1st gen Reverb's hose had most the slack cut off, but I still get rear tire rub on rear susp compression. I've seen people coil their hoses around their post, to deal with the loops that forms when you lower your post. I've tried coiling it both directions, simply just loosening the seat binder and twisting the post 360 in either direction, and it seems that I'd have to give up about 1" of travel due to the cable not clearing the collar. The hose will hit the collar and would bend at the rubber boot, or at the barb if I slid the boot out of the way.

Looking for ideas to solve the tire rub issue. Frame is a Yeti SB95. Post was previously on a ASR7, which I routed it through the dogbone link, relatively loose, zip-tieing it to the rear brake hose, and the slack cable actually ended up making a big loop in front of the handlebar, when I lowered the saddle.


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

I took my new Reverb out for a nice cold ride on Sunday. 15 degrees F, rode for about an hour. After reading this thread, I was afraid it would slow down in the cold weather or simply fail. Well, this wasn't the case, the Reverb was solid in the cold temps. Mine was great out of the box so I hope this continues.


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## barcolounger (Jun 28, 2012)

*SRAM warranty = BS(ram)*

My brand new 2012 Reverb had a slow air leak right out of the box. My LBS said to bring it in, he'd be happy to warranty it even though I didn't buy it there (I like my LBS, they don't sell Reverbs). SRAM sent back a new 2013 Reverb but with a right remote (mine had a left remote). LBS guy apologized, told me SRAM won't have left remotes available until APRIL! He said he spoke with two different people at SRAM and got the same answer from both, I believe him. My question to SRAM is... wtf?


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## fuenstock (May 14, 2006)

barcolounger said:


> My brand new 2012 Reverb had a slow air leak right out of the box. My LBS said to bring it in, he'd be happy to warranty it even though I didn't buy it there (I like my LBS, they don't sell Reverbs). SRAM sent back a new 2013 Reverb but with a right remote (mine had a left remote). LBS guy apologized, told me SRAM won't have left remotes available until APRIL! He said he spoke with two different people at SRAM and got the same answer from both, I believe him. My question to SRAM is... wtf?


Some people are running a right hand remote upside down as a left hand remote. I actually think this put's the button in a better postition and also protects the remote from hits if you endo the bike. Not my bike, but heres a picture of an upside down right hand remote on the left side of bars.


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## barcolounger (Jun 28, 2012)

fuenstock said:


> Some people are running a right hand remote upside down as a left hand remote. I actually think this put's the button in a better postition and also protects the remote from hits if you endo the bike. Not my bike, but heres a picture of an upside down right hand remote on the left side of bars.


Yeah, I've seen that and I'd prefer to run the control upside down, but it doesn't fit with my shifters and brakes.

I see left control reverbs available from retailers. SRAM must have known they'd be screwing past customers when they sent all their stock to retailers, without saving any for warranty repair. But they did it anyway.


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## Natban (Oct 26, 2011)

Just want to share pics of how I mounted the button in case it helps someone. 2011 SX Trail medium with front derailleur and right hand Reverb mounted upside down on the left. Reverb is 30.9, 125mm, 380mm. I'm using the Avid matchmaker mounts for the brakes levers and shifter pods, pods are mounted outboard of the levers (pods closer to the grips than the levers)


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## Rockland (May 18, 2007)

I machined a keyed spacer for Shimano's Ispec shifter mount. Gains enough space to place the remote underside-left & still run a front shifter, with everything in a comfortable position. Blurry cell phone pics below.


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## Rockland (May 18, 2007)

Also on a previous bike, I came up with this solution. For XTR M970 series shifters you need to get an extra right hand mounting bracket to use with the left hand shifter. A little file work was req'd, but not too bad. This is the only photo I could find of how it went together.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

Rock land nice job. How much to machine me one?


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## mt.nebo.mtb (Feb 12, 2011)

Well my Reverb is slowly dying now. Guess I'm not really surprised. I bought on E-Bay and was told by seller that Sram wont accept returns from E-Bay sellers.Local shop,where I have never bought anything,refuses to deal with it and of course Sram says they only deal with local shops. Bottom line is I need someone to rebuild it. Does anyone know of a service center in the U.S. that could do the repairs?


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## Rockland (May 18, 2007)

yeti575inCA said:


> Rock land nice job. How much to machine me one?


This is probably the only one I'll make. Sorry. I'm on an old vertical mill out in my garage. I don't have a DRO, so it takes a while - just me and a set of calipers.


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## rcko (Jan 13, 2013)

I mounted my right lever on the left as well. Then rotated the top button around 180deg.

My reverb is a second gen model and after 8 months of heavy use it finally developed a slack. It will saged about 0.5inch and after a good bleed it now sags about 0.25 inch.

I use this reverb a lot, and given the heavy use I don't think it is a abnormal for the wear.


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## Natban (Oct 26, 2011)

mt.nebo.mtb said:


> Well my Reverb is slowly dying now. Guess I'm not really surprised. I bought on E-Bay and was told by seller that Sram wont accept returns from E-Bay sellers.Local shop,where I have never bought anything,refuses to deal with it and of course Sram says they only deal with local shops. Bottom line is I need someone to rebuild it. Does anyone know of a service center in the U.S. that could do the repairs?


Nice shop...I guess you'll probably have a tough time giving your money to those guys in the future. There's no reason why they shouldn't help you with it unless they don't have any competent mechanics or they don't want new customers. If it's not doing any good on your bike then you should rebuild it yourself. Find some online videos to start with and get a feel for what your about to get in to. Take lots pictures at every step so you can remember how it goes back together. Once you have it all apart you will be able to see the seals that need replacing. Seals are seals, just like bearings are bearings. In other words there are seal and bearing companies who make these for the entire industrialized world and that's where the bike companies get theirs from. Once you have the seals in your hand you will be able to go buy replacments without having to buy the "Rock Shox" kit through your LBS. I've rebuilt my specialized Hi-Lo hubs (new ceramic bearings for $35) ,Rock Shox Domain (Oil from the MX store at about half price) and Marz 66 RC3 (new seals for $6 each) while saving a lot of money and time (not losing my bike to the LBS for a week at a time).

Although to be fair my LBS is fantastic and although I'm a cheap guy, they never hesitate to help me out by selling the nuts, bolts and pieces I might need for my next job. That's why when I drop my wheels off for them to true there will be some beer to accompany the wheels.


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## mt.nebo.mtb (Feb 12, 2011)

I'm sure I could probably do it myself but I would just rather not buy the soft jaws,the IFP tool and the large crows foot adapters to do it all. I was hoping to find someone like Push or Suspension Experts to send it to. I really don't have anything against the local shop.Its a small town so we all ride together. Its just that I buy from the internet and work on my and my friends bikes so I am the enemy. I did the full bleed and finally shortened that hose add it seems a little better. It holds its air pressure so I'll just ride it until it dies and then try another brand. Maybe Thomson or Fox will be more user friendly.


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## The Dude (Jan 19, 2004)

I have a 2012 Reverb and it will sink about 5mm when pushed down with my hand but then it solid after that. Is this normal or something to worry about?


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

The Dude said:


> I have a 2012 Reverb and it will sink about 5mm when pushed down with my hand but then it solid after that. Is this normal or something to worry about?


No not normal


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## The Dude (Jan 19, 2004)

Could a bleed cure this?


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

The Dude said:


> Could a bleed cure this?


Do a full bleed - post and remote ends. Make sure the pressure in the post is at least 250psi.

Try all that first, and if it doesn't work, then probably needs a rebuild. But the bleeding and pressure checking is easy to do without taking the post apart.


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## Massbiker (Feb 15, 2013)

Wtf s that?


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## greenchris (Feb 25, 2005)

boob


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## cscsw (May 29, 2011)

Lost the T25 Torx bolt on the remote. Does anyone know the dimension? Thanks


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## methodman (Jul 7, 2011)

Seems that my reverb has also succumb to air seal failure. Has many of the same symptoms as other thread uses i.e. loss of pressure and fluid around bottom snap ring. I am getting the impression that it is a leak; the post is reaching 250PSI easily and holds that pressure. Following a few uses on trail the post will be come "stuck down" as others mentioned. However my post is not fully stuck down; you are able to lift it through every mm of its travel. Once again when you pull off trail and pump it up; it works fine again.:madman:

_Have any thread users found either the basic or full service rebuild kits solve their issues?_

I have bled oil through the system before with no problems and regained performance. It is now apparent its a much larger problem; especially after reading feedback from thread users.

Extremely frustrated at this point; when its functional the reverb is exceptional. Has turned my claymore into a timeless trail trasher

BTW I am using what they are calling the A1 post with lots of trail mileage


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

CharacterZero said:


> Good luck!





eurospek said:


> Thanks, it just irks me to read people's experiences with SRAM have been the complete opposite of mine so far. Love my Reverb to death and will not ride without one now, but so far on the CS end (especially for what they are charging for the product), I'm left feeling a bit sour.


Just a follow up to my Reverb situation, I finally ended up bringing mine back to REI on Friday, the bike tech guy very helpful but I have a feeling he would be clueless if it came down to him rebuilding it himself. He did get an RA number from SRAM within minutes and my post has been sent back to SRAM that same day. It will be either rebuilt or replaced, I'm keeping my fingers crossed for the latter. I'm hoping to have something back this week as the REI and SRAM is within 30 miles of each other here in Chicago. But so far, I have no idea why my trusted LBS couldn't achieve the same level of service from SRAM, it's not like they are a small unknown LBS in the area, they are one of the best we have here. Could the original place of purchase have any affect on this happening I wonder?


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I trimmed the hose on my Reverb following the directions on the SRAM video. The instructions were clear enough, but I have been unable to push the hose all the way onto the barb on the remote.

I've tried with pliers. I'm a big guy and plenty strong enuff, but don't want to damage the hose.

Now the thing needs to be bled ever other ride 'cause (I'm assuming) it leaks a little. Very frustrating.

Any tricks to pushing the hose ALL the way onto the barb? 

Disclosure: I didn't use a hydraulic hose cutter, but a good sharp cable cutter. The hose wasn't crushed and I had no problem getting the hose push part way onto the barb. It's the final 3 or 4mm that is a bear.

Thanks.


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## VFRLuke (Aug 14, 2012)

reamer41 said:


> I trimmed the hose on my Reverb following the directions on the SRAM video. The instructions were clear enough, but I have been unable to push the hose all the way onto the barb on the remote.
> 
> I've tried with pliers. I'm a big guy and plenty strong enuff, but don't want to damage the hose.
> 
> ...


My barb threaded on with my unit. Try screwing the remote onto the end of the hose.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

eurospek said:


> Just a follow up to my Reverb situation, I finally ended up bringing mine back to REI on Friday, the bike tech guy very helpful but I have a feeling he would be clueless if it came down to him rebuilding it himself. He did get an RA number from SRAM within minutes and my post has been sent back to SRAM that same day. It will be either rebuilt or replaced, I'm keeping my fingers crossed for the latter. I'm hoping to have something back this week as the REI and SRAM is within 30 miles of each other here in Chicago. But so far, I have no idea why my trusted LBS couldn't achieve the same level of service from SRAM, it's not like they are a small unknown LBS in the area, they are one of the best we have here. Could the original place of purchase have any affect on this happening I wonder?


Picked up my 2012 Reverb post from REI today. It came back from Sram's warranty in under a week. It wasn't replaced, but I've received a full rebuild and rebleed under warranty. It definitely feels firm locking into position, zero play whatsoever. I'm a happy camper once again! :thumbsup: This has changed my opinion of Sram's CS department but makes me question the efforts of my trusted LBS. With them, I would've been out $100-150 for the rebuild they wanted to charge me. The only thing to come out from them was obtaining the full Reverb rebuild kit from Sram ($50 value) that I got to keep for future use.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

eurospek said:


> Picked up my 2012 Reverb post from REI today. It came back from Sram's warranty in under a week. It wasn't replaced, but I've received a full rebuild and rebleed under warranty. It definitely feels firm locking into position, zero play whatsoever. I'm a happy camper once again! :thumbsup: This has changed my opinion of Sram's CS department but makes me question the efforts of my trusted LBS. With them, I would've been out $100-150 for the rebuild they wanted to charge me. The only thing to come out from them was obtaining the full Reverb rebuild kit from Sram ($50 value) that I got to keep for future use.


I have had similiar experience with sram on 3 reverbs, all bought off crais and sent through my lbs, and all recieved new not rebuilt replacements.


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## cort (Mar 29, 2004)

*Here is some positive feedback regarding the Reverb post.*

I have put ~3k and have had zero issues. Main chamber holds air, no additional play in the shaft, the remote works, and no creaping issues.

I have had two of these post so far, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy a third


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

is it safe to use a clamp on the reverb seatpost? i have a Feedback pro elite workstand and use a THULE APEX bike rack to transport my bikes.


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

Not sure if this has been discussed. I noticed while cleaning my bike that there seems to be greenish fluid around the c clip and near the air valve cap of the post in the bottom. Is this indicative of a leak/bad seal? The post still works fine though. Just a few mm's sag when I sit but nothing major.


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## mark747 (Jun 14, 2004)

The Dude said:


> I have a 2012 Reverb and it will sink about 5mm when pushed down with my hand but then it solid after that. Is this normal or something to worry about?


After a year mine started doing the same thing. I took it into the LBS to have it bleed and that didn't help so took it back. The check the air pressure and it was 110 psi or something like that. The pumped it up to 250 psi and it has worked fine ever since.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.


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## coicab (Sep 1, 2012)

Ive had my RS reverb for about 6months and not had one single problem and is faultless


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## LaXCarp (Jul 19, 2008)

Does anyone run a mud guard of any kind, or just make sure to clean it off after every ride?


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

bapski said:


> is it safe to use a clamp on the reverb seatpost? i have a Feedback pro elite workstand and use a THULE APEX bike rack to transport my bikes.


with no replies, i just thought it would be better to be safe than sorry.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

bapski said:


> with no replies, i just thought it would be better to be safe than sorry.


contraption in action


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Seems like it worked...... I do believe you were correct, you are not supposed to clamp the post. Read it somewhere on RS's website


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## caedmassey (Jan 28, 2013)

I have a stealth on my new trek slash but I haven't used it yet, hopefully I don't have any issues


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## dog (Aug 9, 2006)

CharacterZero said:


> OK, that is a bummer. My experiences with SRAM have been just the opposite. I've had 4 reverbs replaced by them now with the most recent being a few months ago for the same issue you are having now.
> 
> 1. Use your LBS. You might talk to SRAM through the 800 number, but they won't deal with you.
> 2. Be persistent and remain kind. I took SRAM up on their offer of the rebuild kit, but that didn't fully resolve the problem. When the LBS couldn't perform a full rebuild sucessfully, I wasn't charged and SRAM sent out a new post.
> ...


i read yours and eurospek's stories. mine is pogoing as well. Video no. 1 of the 4 part series says if you are having the pogo problem that is has to go to one of their service centers... for yucks i called SRAM to speak to their tech folks. i told him that the place i got my reverb from is belly-up so they can't help me (which is true). he wanted me to talk to another LBS (which i expected). he said to check their web site for the ones that are reported to have the strongest service capabilities... the funny thing is that he said that the full service thing would cure the pogoing and it was for sure not a warranty issue (apparently like they told eurospek's LBS) and their very own 4 part full service video said to send it to a service center only (and presumably not do the service?)... hmmm...

i am not a conspiracy kind of human, but this doesn't seem to add up... i think i'll try calling one their LBS' with the stronger capabilities and see what they say...

on the other hand, nothing on those videos looked to hard... just gotta buy the specialty tools, which look to be about $10 each... although $50 a year maintenance parts seems kind of steep...

any other advice?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

dog said:


> any other advice?


I would definitely try another LBS. Although I was quite surprised with my experience. I first took mine to my fav LBS that I visit frequently, know them on a first name basis, and either get minor service done or buy spare parts when I need them quick and don't want to wait online. SRAM told them my issue wasn't warrantied at all, but would require the full rebuild to remedy it, the LBS was able to get them to send the rebuild kit ($50 value) and that was that. The LBS wanted $100 for the rebuild. No thanks.

Took it finally to the bike shop at REI (where I purchased initially), and was hesitant about trying them first because I definitely do not trust the mechanic's expertise and knowledge there compared to a real LBS, but was proven wrong lol. The tech took my post, got on the phone with SRAM, and it was sent into them for warranty that same day. I received mine back fully rebuilt and re-bled, free of charge, within a week's turnaround. Quite different from my LBS experience, and no mention by SRAM that my post's serial number was already tried once for a warranty and denied when my LBS called 2 weeks previously.

In conclusion, I don't know what to think of this, but most importantly, my Reverb has been fixed under warranty and it's really all that matters.  (Plus I scored a full rebuild kit for future use for free)


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## peanutaxis (Aug 19, 2011)

Why is the bushing/top cap so DAMN EXPENSIVE??


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## ruscle (Jun 19, 2011)

peanutaxis said:


> Why is the bushing/top cap so DAMN EXPENSIVE??


Probably usual marketing scam to boost profits! I got mine from Germany over the web (bike-discounts)and cost around £30 delivered which saved me £10 over UK prices, still pricy for what it is. In the long run I have had the post for more than 2 years and this is the first time I've replaced it so works out fairly cheap.


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## dog (Aug 9, 2006)

eurospek said:


> In conclusion, I don't know what to think of this, but most importantly, my Reverb has been fixed under warranty and it's really all that matters.  (Plus I scored a full rebuild kit for future use for free)


it's sad but I did try another LBS and got the same answer your LBS got... unfortunately I did not buy my post from some place with clout like REI... 

just seems to be way too much maintenance... i'll drop this dropper for sure!!!


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## N0Mad (Oct 5, 2008)

N0Mad said:


> mine didn't work out of the box.
> production date is 2011 week 11, so it supposed to be w/o all issues.
> it doesn't work after several bleedings - the remote button is hard, I can't push it at all (a little bit if remote speed is set slow), as if the hydraulic valve inside the post is stuck and doesn't work at all. WTF???
> :madman:
> anyone had the same problem?


Ok, better late than never, a sort of long-term review:
1) The seller took the defect post and delivered me a new one
2) The defect post was repaired by a mechanic - he told me that it was assembled wrong at the factory - some quad seal in the post internals was misplaced, tightend by the other metal parts and corrupted, so the valve in the hydraulic system just couldn't open. That seal was a proprietary one of some specific size/form and he couldn't find the replacement, so he just turned it inside-out. The post worked ok for a couple of weeks testing, so the seller payed for repairment and sold that post with a big discount, like for $200.
3) Anyway, as for now, my post (the old version, barbs unthreaded, labeled A1 in service manuals) sucks literally (air into the system), needs rebleeding like every month or even earlier.
4) I plan to replace both barbs:
- the post end with a crimped Elixir barb (I have an old brake line left when I replaced it with Goodridge)
- the remote end: throw away the original barb and speed dial (anyway unused) and replace it with a normal M6 barb from Hope brake lines (I have a spare kit).

I don't want to use the original line with barbs because:
1) a lot of parts (including the remote barb) are labeled in service manual as incompatible between A1 and A2 version. I have A1 version and I'm not sure if it will work with A2 remote barb.
2) ordering the barb/line kit and waiting for shipping can take 2 weeks or more, not sure if it arrives before the enduro race where I need this post mostly.
3) I'm not really impressed with the new remote barb. Yes, it's better than the old one, but the connection is still not so reliable as on the post end (with Goodridge style connector and collar)


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## N0Mad (Oct 5, 2008)

Now it looks so:
1) remote








2) full in








3) full out








Need to rebleed it (doesn't lock at full travel, can be pushed about an inch down with full body weight)

*Update:*
Rebleed doesn't help, looks like the quite common issue with unthreaded base of the upper tube. I hear an air hiss when compressing the post, somewhere in the mid travel. If compressing the post in the upper half of the travel it almost locks (about 3/8" or 1cm play in the middle and less than 1" play when fully out). After passing that "hiss-point" and retracting the post again it works worse, like the air is trapped somewhere in the hydro system.


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## N0Mad (Oct 5, 2008)

Repaired.
Air trapped under the poppet valve which allows the oil in the damper to pass between the inner and outer tubes. Released air from the air chamber, opened the post from the upper side (carefully, the air under the poppet valve was under big pressure - shot in the ceiling))). Took the valve out, added some oil to the needed level (standard 2ml syringe tip has the needed length, some about 9..10mm), assembled, bled the remote. Works fine so far after a week of riding. I was very lucky that the IFP left in correct position. So I don't really recommend such a way to repair the Reverb.
As I removed the speed adjustment, the post retracts as if by the lowerst speed setting, but still ok for me.


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

I'm under the impression that the Reverbs with the black collar are the 2012+ models and are (mostly) problem free. The ones with the silver collar are pre 2012 and have the issues that needed to be worked out. I've been using my 2012 for a few months now and its awesome. I just shortened the hose which took about 2 min and was extremely simple.


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## N0Mad (Oct 5, 2008)

Yes, that's true. The most problems are with 2011 models.
I took a rental bike during a business trip to Switzerland - Commencal Meta SX 2012, with the new Reverb. Asked the mechanic if they had any troubles with it - almost none, sometimes bleeding the remote is needed, nothing more.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Reverb failed again after being in once for warranty service. Air seal or something failed and post won't hold air again. When they serviced mine under warranty I did not get a new one like others are talking about. Had a bunch of play in it too and still does. It worked for a few months then broke again. Also, I had installed new hose kit and threaded barbs already and even then was bleeding it far too often. I'm done with this thing. When it works it's great, but I can't trust it on the trail, especially on long rides. For something that had so much potential it's been a huge disappointment.

FWIW, My Specialized Command Post Blacklite is still going strong without any issues or play. It requires some careful setup, but It's been rock-solid reliable so far and hasn't needed any special attention. I like that the post is mechanically locked in place at each position.


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## Chasmeifyoucan (Apr 18, 2013)

anybody here replace the seals? is it relatively easy?


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

Chasmeifyoucan said:


> anybody here replace the seals? is it relatively easy?


first of a four part series video from SRAM. Reverb seatpost service - part 1 - YouTube looks like id be able to handle servicing my REVERB if the need arises...


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## Chasmeifyoucan (Apr 18, 2013)

i did see that series, just curious if anyone has done it and what they thought of it. Wondering as i found a couple that weren't holding air for very cheap that needed new seals.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

Chasmeifyoucan said:


> i did see that series, just curious if anyone has done it and what they thought of it. Wondering as i found a couple that weren't holding air for very cheap that needed new seals.


i too got curious when i read your post and did a search myself just to see if in the eventuality that i come across issues with my reverb id be able to fix it myself. . .


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

anyone's Reverb feel "notchy" going down? mine down... like it catches mid way down... also impedes the return back up... :-s


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

LCW said:


> anyone's Reverb feel "notchy" going down? mine down... like it catches mid way down... also impedes the return back up... :-s


My bet is that your seat post clamp is too tight. That inhibits the inner post as it goes down within the outer post at the point that the bottom of the inner post has to pass the seat post clamp.
Loosen it a bit and see if it fixed the problem. I had to add friction grease so that the clamp could be loose enough to allow the post to move freely but not have the entire post move in the seat tube.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## borbntm (May 4, 2011)

What he said^^^^^


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Ah - I'll try that... Thnx for the tip!!


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## methodman (Jul 7, 2011)

LCW said:


> anyone's Reverb feel "notchy" going down? mine down... like it catches mid way down... also impedes the return back up... :-s


If you have a lot of miles on your it might be ready for keys.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

For all those wondering about the full bleed procedure, I've done it. I sourced all the tools around ebay/amazon (I think) and it cost me roughly $25. Not too bad. I've been rolling with a Reverb for two years now and know the ins and outs of it fairly well. Usually, my Reverb will last roughly 8-9 months, have a problem, then I get it warrantied. This has happened 4 times now. Only 1 out of those 4 times I can honestly say I'm not quite sure what happened. It got SUPER stuck and wouldn't move at all. To be fair, I think I bent something internally somehow. I am positive I know exactly what happened on the other 3 times, and the full bleed procedure remedies this problem.

I'm sure most of you have come across the dreaded problem where your Reverb will start to sag at full height? In my experience, this is caused by 1 of 2 problems. First fix is really easy. You've lost some air pressure. Pump it back up to 250psi. Done and done. The second problem is much more involved and it is because of one little seal. So far for me, it has been the same seal every single time. When you remove the outer tube (the portion that actually gets clamped into your seat tube), you'll see the golden colored air shaft that goes into the silver colored seal head. There is a thick o-ring on the inside of the inner seal head that the air shaft rides up and down on. That's the seal that goes bad. I came across a good way to check it by accident. First and foremost, follow the Rockshox instructions to remove the outer seat post tube. Once it is completely removed, re-install the lower seal head (the part where you connect your pump to in order to pump up the Reverb) onto the air shaft. You will usually not do this unless the outer seat post tube is still on the Reverb. Now, pump up the air shaft to 250psi. Jiggle the airshaft around once it is pumped up. Do you hear a 'psssst' noise? If so, that seal is blown and that is why your Reverb continues to sag. You need to follow the 4-part procedure to fix this problem and replace that seal. If it doesn't release any air when you jiggle it around, you are good to go.

So, as far as the bleed procedure goes, I find it to be a bit more involved than rebuilding a Rockshox fork. Certainly a lot more messy with the spill over parts. The inside tube that you remove with a 1.5mm allen key can be a bit difficult to remove. It kinda gets stuck. You have to be careful not to scratch the inside of this tube since the air shaft moves up and down inside of it. It may take you a few tries to bleed it like in the video, but take your time. Overall, it isn't that difficult. 

Lastly, I think the full rebuild kit is a bit of overkill. I have one just in case some of the parts go bad, but in reality, I think Rockshox did it perfect with the $8 basic kit. Those are the o-rings that go bad quickly. The basic kit comes with all the seals for the inner seal head and the charger bushing. That is what is going to go bad in about a year's worth of riding. I also measured all the seals and bought replacements from the oringstore.com, but honestly, some of them don't look exactly quite like the right size. I'll report back whenever I get around to trying out my other seals that I got from the oringstore. I did however buy a quad seal for the one seal that ends up being the culprit every time. Next time my Reverb goes bad, I'll try the quad ring.

Hope this helps for all you DIY folks.


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## N0Mad (Oct 5, 2008)

*Laterilus*, thanks a lot for the useful info.
My Reverb has some play back-forth and side-to-side when fully retracted.
Could you say out of your experience, what's the main cause of that?
I assume that's the upper bushing in the outer tube collar (is it in the basic kit?).
What about the lower bushing on the inner tube bottom part?
Does the 3 keys also need to be replaced?


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

I have yet to replace the large black collar on the outside of the seatpost (where the upper bushing is located). I don't think that bushing sees a lot of the strain. You can't replace that bushing. You have to buy a new collar. I'm not saying it won't go bad, but I don't think it goes bad as fast as some of the other wear items. I think the inside bushing (what you are calling the lower bushing or Rockshox calls the charger bushing) is what is probably causing the play in your seat post. That bushing goes bad on me every 6 months or so. The charger bushing DOES come in the basic o-ring kit. I figured Rockshox put it in there because it does go bad so quickly. The charger bushing is also the cause sometimes of my post not moving up and down smoothly. I know the bushing is going bad once the post is sorta getting stuck on its travel. I'll see the outer covering of the bushing start to separate away from the metal portion when this happens. Either way, it is an easy and cheap fix. BTW, all these posts are going to have some side to side and forward to backward play. If you can't feel it when you are seated then it isn't bad yet. I've never replaced the keys. Every time I open up the post they are still perfectly round and their diameter measures exactly with brand new keys so I don't see a reason to replace them. I would think you'd need to crash and torque on your saddle pretty bad in order to damage the keys where they'd need to be replaced.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Laterilus said:


> For all those wondering about the full bleed procedure, I've done it. I sourced all the tools around ebay/amazon (I think) and it cost me roughly $25. Not too bad. I've been rolling with a Reverb for two years now and know the ins and outs of it fairly well. Usually, my Reverb will last roughly 8-9 months, have a problem, then I get it warrantied. This has happened 4 times now. Only 1 out of those 4 times I can honestly say I'm not quite sure what happened. It got SUPER stuck and wouldn't move at all. To be fair, I think I bent something internally somehow. I am positive I know exactly what happened on the other 3 times, and the full bleed procedure remedies this problem.
> 
> I'm sure most of you have come across the dreaded problem where your Reverb will start to sag at full height? In my experience, this is caused by 1 of 2 problems. First fix is really easy. You've lost some air pressure. Pump it back up to 250psi. Done and done. The second problem is much more involved and it is because of one little seal. So far for me, it has been the same seal every single time. When you remove the outer tube (the portion that actually gets clamped into your seat tube), you'll see the golden colored air shaft that goes into the silver colored seal head. There is a thick o-ring on the inside of the inner seal head that the air shaft rides up and down on. That's the seal that goes bad. I came across a good way to check it by accident. First and foremost, follow the Rockshox instructions to remove the outer seat post tube. Once it is completely removed, re-install the lower seal head (the part where you connect your pump to in order to pump up the Reverb) onto the air shaft. You will usually not do this unless the outer seat post tube is still on the Reverb. Now, pump up the air shaft to 250psi. Jiggle the airshaft around once it is pumped up. Do you hear a 'psssst' noise? If so, that seal is blown and that is why your Reverb continues to sag. You need to follow the 4-part procedure to fix this problem and replace that seal. If it doesn't release any air when you jiggle it around, you are good to go.
> 
> ...


I'm a DIY person myself, but there's one small problem. If that air seal fails in the field on a long high-altitude, back country ride (like I often do in CO), it's going to be a miserable ride out. I'm just not sure I can trust it. It's already failed twice on me, once in the field and once at home while trying to put more air in it. Not to mention the play it's developed is disconcerting.

I started this thread and if you read my original post you'll see I was one of the biggest fans of this thing going in, but longterm testing has changed my mind unfortunately.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

BaeckerX1 said:


> I'm a DIY person myself, but there's one small problem. If that air seal fails in the field on a long high-altitude, back country ride (like I often do in CO), it's going to be a miserable ride out. I'm just not sure I can trust it. It's already failed twice on me, once in the field and once at home while trying to put more air in it. Not to mention the play it's developed is disconcerting.
> 
> I started this thread and if you read my original post you'll see I was one of the biggest fans of this thing going in, but longterm testing has changed my mind unfortunately.


I hear ya, man. I've been lucky in that the farthest I've been out when this has happened is 2 miles. I'm in full agreement that the Reverb is the best when it works and sucks when it goes bad. I was probably going to switch it out until Rockshox finally released those new videos that showed how to fix it. Sure, that doesn't help on the ride, but I didn't like waiting for the new warranty post to come in.

There is however a fix on the ride. That silver collar that comes with the Reverb. It is meant to shorten how much the post can drop. If you carry it with you on a ride, it is a quick fix to at least have your saddle at your normal riding height. You can raise your saddle to the highest point (don't sit on the saddle to make it sag) then put on that silver collar. It is supposed to hold it in place.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

methodman said:


> If you have a lot of miles on your it might be ready for keys.


It's brand new. I'll check the seat clamp tighteness as others have suggested. But right now it's in a box heading to Moab - which I will be heading to in less than a week.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

curious to know what you guys are referring to as "KEYS".. thanks..


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## N0Mad (Oct 5, 2008)

bapski said:


> curious to know what you guys are referring to as "KEYS".. thanks..


little pins which prevent the moving part of the post from rotating.
look at that message - RockShox Reverb Thread - Page 15


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

N0Mad said:


> little pins which prevent the moving part of the post from rotating.
> look at that message - RockShox Reverb Thread - Page 15


oh thanks...


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## Nickbm3 (Nov 10, 2010)

Does anyone know the difference between the A1 and A2 reverb posts? I notice that they do have some different parts when looking at the replacement parts diagrams, and the A2 has a black speed adjuster on the remote. I just got a 2013 reverb from ebay and its an A2, sounds a little funny on the way up, but it works perfectly and didnt even need a bleed out of the box.


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## robin_hood (Feb 8, 2006)

I recently picked up a new 2013 Reverb and I have been really pleased with it so far. I rode it a few times then decided to shorten the hose. After I shortened the hose I tried to just bleed from the remote end. This didn't go so well and the post was really slow. I decided to do a full bleed and then the post stopped working all together.

I then removed the post from the bike hung it upside down as low as I could and bleed to the remote end straight up. Wow what a difference. My post works like new again.

If anyone is having issues I would Strongly recommend removing the post and hanging it during the bleed.


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## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

I just finished a complete rebuild on mine, as I was dealing with both the forward /rearward movement and the 5-10mm height drop.

It was still within the warranty period and because it would involve sending it away for an undetermined amount of time (I am in Canada and it would have to be sent down to the US), I decided to order the rebuild kit and bushing collar and do it myself.

After following the videos online, I was able to do it and it is working thus far. I was quite surprised, actually. When I saw all the moving parts involved in making htis post work, I was convinced that I would be sending it back into SRAM to fix it.

The thing that annoyed me were the Reverb specific tools that I had to purchase to complete this. (I experienced this as well when I was rebuilding my Monarch and found out that I needed a Monarch specific air valve adapter)

All in all, fairly easy to do if you have a good bench vise and ample set of tools.


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## aldeezy (Nov 27, 2010)

Hello,

I had a question about the bleed process. I recently did a full bleed on my Reverb but I found it very difficult to press down on one syringe and pull on the other. It felt like that the whole time through the entire process. It felt like the syringes were "getting stuck" or not moving freely. These are the same syringes that came with my Reverb. With the syringes empty, it was still not moving freely until i did the push/pull motion several times. It would feel stuck again if I stop and only move freely after serveral times of doing the same motion. Are you supposed to lube the syringe seals so they will move smoothly? If so, with what? Have any of you experienced this when bleeding the Reverb? Thanks in advance!


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## robin_hood (Feb 8, 2006)

It helps to use a little of the 2.5 weight fluid or some other lube to help them move a little easier


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## N0Mad (Oct 5, 2008)

yes, exactly. I lube the syringes with the same 2.5 wt oil, otherwise they stuck.
and after some time the rubber on the syringe plungers gets "old" and sticky. I'll have to replace the syringes from my bleed kit soon.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

N0Mad said:


> yes, exactly. I lube the syringes with the same 2.5 wt oil, otherwise they stuck.
> and after some time the rubber on the syringe plungers gets "old" and sticky. I'll have to replace the syringes from my bleed kit soon.


Yep, keep them lubed up and they'll last longer.

I picked up a second set of the high-zoot Avid brake bleed kit -specifically for the my two Reverbs. Much higher quality syringes - they don't get screwed up like the cheap ones.

Just make sure to label the ones for the brake and post as such. Don't want to cross-contaminate the fluids and end up eating the seals on anything.

Was also having to do a bleed about every six months to keep things working smooth and fast. Once I swapped to the newer hose/barb setup, that interval has decreased significantly. IMO, the non-threaded barbs on the remote end led to fluid leaking out and air getting in. The also allow for a way better full system bleed, and really cramming the fluid in there. My Reverbs are faaaaaast!


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## random (Sep 13, 2008)

*hose type*

I need a longer hose.

Would any normal hydraulic hose work ... or do i need something special ?

Those feetings are reusable since the hose is just screwed on ... right or wrong ?

thank you bye


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## N0Mad (Oct 5, 2008)

You can use hydraulic hose, the best if it's not used before. Or do your best to clean all the brake fluid from it. I installed the old hose from Elixir brakes.
Yes, the new fittings (threaded) are reusable.


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## cort (Mar 29, 2004)

Aldeezy,

Yes the syringes can be difficult to move. Pushing down on one syringe while gently pulling up on the other should ease the bleed process.


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## rottenronny (Mar 16, 2010)

bapski said:


> with no replies, i just thought it would be better to be safe than sorry.


I think that is wise. I wouldn't clamp it. The post seems a little fragile. I clamp onto the downtube on my bike.


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## rottenronny (Mar 16, 2010)

LCW said:


> anyone's Reverb feel "notchy" going down? mine down... like it catches mid way down... also impedes the return back up... :-s


Try to back off on the clamp torque to a minimum that will hold the post. I find that the maximum torque recommended by SRAM will cause my post to bind.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

rottenronny said:


> Try to back off on the clamp torque to a minimum that will hold the post. I find that the maximum torque recommended by SRAM will cause my post to bind.


I just got back from Moab where I had shipped my bike - couldn't try the looseing the seat clamp solution until I got there last Friday. It worked great! Smooth as butter! A dropper post like the Reverb is ESSENTIAL in a place like Moab lol!!!


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## aldeezy (Nov 27, 2010)

Thanks for answering my syringe question, I appreciate it! I will trying lubing the syringe seals with the 2.5 oil.


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## Dirk77 (Mar 24, 2013)

Dang.. I would like to buy one but they seem like a total PITA's.. I have one of the early specialized command post that ive been using for a few weeks that seems ok, but on hard landings the seat rotates back no matter how tight i get it.. Its a PITA too.. Gotta spring for the LEV??


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Dirk77 said:


> Dang.. I would like to buy one but they seem like a total PITA's.. I have one of the early specialized command post that ive been using for a few weeks that seems ok, but on hard landings the seat rotates back no matter how tight i get it.. Its a PITA too.. Gotta spring for the LEV??


You aren't sitting on the saddle while landing are you?


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## Dirk77 (Mar 24, 2013)

evasive said:


> You aren't sitting on the saddle while landing are you?


haha, no but sometimes I come down on it with my butt a little.. Technique issue maybe..


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## Dirk77 (Mar 24, 2013)

now that I remember a few times,, It has done it when going over large bumps when in the seated position with the post extended as well.. Its annoying, cause I have to stop and fix it.. I should just put some sand paper inbetween the seat post holder things..


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

My reverb came with the right handed remote - any way to buy just a left hand remote by itself?


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

LCW said:


> My reverb came with the right handed remote - any way to buy just a left hand remote by itself?


tried to look at SRAM site and google and there seems to be NO HITS with just the remote.

have you tried mounting the remote under the handlebar? i know mine came with a left handed remote but i am mounting it on the right and under the handlebar.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

tried it... don't dig it


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

LCW said:


> tried it... don't dig it


if it weren't a hassle for me, id trade you mine...


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## ruscle (Jun 19, 2011)

Dirk77 said:


> Dang.. I would like to buy one but they seem like a total PITA's.. I have one of the early specialized command post that ive been using for a few weeks that seems ok, but on hard landings the seat rotates back no matter how tight i get it.. Its a PITA too.. Gotta spring for the LEV??


They are so easy to do a full service yourself, so any problems you get you can fix. I've been riding mine since they first came out and have only just recently experienced any problems. (Travel sinking down 1 inch) one evening stripping and replacing seals and its like new again. Well worth the money and not a pita in my opinion. Benefits out way any maintenance needed over time. My Fox forks needed more service time.


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## Dirk77 (Mar 24, 2013)

Thanks, that helped me make a decision. I just purchased a 13' 125mm on Ebay for 289.00 lbs wanted 370.99.. Sorry lbs.. I also noticed lots of parts and seals available on Ebay, that's a good thing.. Looks like rock shox likes to give their customers the ability and parts to fix their parts..



ruscle said:


> They are so easy to do a full service yourself, so any problems you get you can fix. I've been riding mine since they first came out and have only just recently experienced any problems. (Travel sinking down 1 inch) one evening stripping and replacing seals and its like new again. Well worth the money and not a pita in my opinion. Benefits out way any maintenance needed over time. My Fox forks needed more service time.


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## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

Just serviced mine for first time, its a 2012 model that replaced a 2011. Been riding it for a year, and it started to sag down about 3/4 inch.

Watched this video bought the $7 basic kit, spent 45 minutes and it works like new. Not bad at all. Not sure how tough a full rebuild will be, but the basic kit install was simple.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

^ Nice job on the rebuild.


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## pgFA (Sep 2, 2010)

LCW said:


> My reverb came with the right handed remote - any way to buy just a left hand remote by itself?


You have to buy the whole left hand assembly...

RockShox Reverb Left Lever/MMX Clamp/Hose Assembly from Bike Bling


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## rottenronny (Mar 16, 2010)

LCW said:


> My reverb came with the right handed remote - any way to buy just a left hand remote by itself?


I think you have the ideal setup already. Just move your remote across to the left side and it will now be positioned beneath the bars, which IMHO, results in a more favourable ergonomic setup than the original design.


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

I am really hoping somebody can help me out with this Reverb issue: 

I wrecked with the seat post in the fully dropped (lowered) position and broke the hose barb off the remote. I purchased and installed a replacement barb, and watched the bleed video on the Sram website (I have successfully performed a bleed before & it wasn't a big deal). The problem is that the instructions say to perform the bleed with the post in the fully extended position, but I cannot figure out how to get it back to the fully extended position. When I extend the post manually, it contracts right back to the contracted position.

Does anybody know how to get it to the extended position?

Thanks in advanced!


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## Nickbm3 (Nov 10, 2010)

I would just bleed it as is. Just do a quick bleed so that you get the post to actuate and extend, then spend a few more minutes and do a complete bleed when it's up.


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## McSlow (Feb 6, 2013)

My Reverb moan...
I bought a Reverb for my heavy duty AM rig, nice fresh new build, so i was looking forward to a nice new bit of dropper post goodness. 

I found the post had blown air seals when I had it on the bike frame when I started building my bike. Pretty dissapointing for a new item out of the box. Sent it back to CRC in the UK for a warranty. They sent it for a repair under warranty - which gets my goat a little, just straight out replace it if it's new and unused would be more ideal IMO. Anywho, it arrives back after not too long (maybe 3-4 weeks). The first thing I notice is the muppet repairing it has not paid attention and now the RS logo is offset to the right, there are scratches on the top cap and across a Reverb logo. The hose connection nut into the post has been semi rounded off also. I would be fine with the scratches after it's first service if it were say 1 y/old. But essentially I have a second hand looking Reverb that hasn't been put together with much attention to detail going onto my new rig annoys the crap out of me. Yes yes yes, it will get dirty and take a few knocks fairly soon into the bikes life, but that's not the point when your an anal bastard like me.

Next time I think I'll ask for a rebuild kit to be sent and rebuild it myself. At least I know it will be repaired with pride and attention to detail.

*rant over*


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

skyno said:


> I am really hoping somebody can help me out with this Reverb issue:
> 
> I wrecked with the seat post in the fully dropped (lowered) position and broke the hose barb off the remote. I purchased and installed a replacement barb, and watched the bleed video on the Sram website (I have successfully performed a bleed before & it wasn't a big deal). The problem is that the instructions say to perform the bleed with the post in the fully extended position, but I cannot figure out how to get it back to the fully extended position. When I extend the post manually, it contracts right back to the contracted position.
> 
> ...


Yes, this can be fixed. You will want to bleed the post from the fully extended position. First, keep the post filled with air pressure. Remove the saddle and the saddle clamp. You will see the top of the poppet valve. You are going to manually activate it. Carefully push down on the top of the poppet valve with some sort of tool that is approximately the same diameter as the top of the poppet valve that also won't gouge or marr the valve. The post should return to normal height. Always remember to be careful when doing this as the contents are under a lot of pressure. You will also more than likely release some more oil out of the top of the poppet valve when doing this procedure.


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

Laterilus said:


> Yes, this can be fixed. You will want to bleed the post from the fully extended position. First, keep the post filled with air pressure. Remove the saddle and the saddle clamp. You will see the top of the poppet valve. You are going to manually activate it. Carefully push down on the top of the poppet valve with some sort of tool that is approximately the same diameter as the top of the poppet valve that also won't gouge or marr the valve. The post should return to normal height. Always remember to be careful when doing this as the contents are under a lot of pressure. You will also more than likely release some more oil out of the top of the poppet valve when doing this procedure.


Perfect advice Lat! You're the man - followed your instructions and it worked perfectly - I'm back in business with my Reverb working better than before my wreck + $7 fix - already had the fluid & you can get replacement barb on Amazon


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Glad to help and hear you we're able to fix it. I used to break the remote hose barb all the time. 4 times last year, in fact. I had a new brake/shifter setup that pretty much required me to run my remote on top of my bars. That's where I see this problem the most. Even a minor crash where the ground (or something else) hits the remote anywhere near the barb is going to put too much strain on the threaded section and snap it off, even if you are only hitting the reverb hose. As long as it is a close hit to the barb, chances are it will break. I've never broken a barb while mounting the remote upside down. The hose barb is greatly protected under your brake levers that way. 

Keep in mind this fix when out on the trail. If you accidentally break your hose barb while the saddle is in the down position, you can raise it back up with this method and at least have a fully extended, normal seat post.


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## sthlm (Dec 23, 2008)

Just received my Reverb. Looks great but from what I can tell the speed adjuster doesn't slow down the speed. Anyone experienced this and do you think a bleed will do any difference? 

Cheers


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## G64 (Oct 15, 2011)

Please forgive me if this has been answered in this thread, I have been searching without much success:
When my 2012 reverb is fully extended, it then drops by 1/2 inch when applying body weight on. I do not know what causes that and how to fix it. I looked at the videos and I do not know if it is a bleed that's required or some other service. 

There is 250 PSI pressure in it, and it comes up quickly. But it just drops by 1/2 inch when pressing down...

Can anyone help me figure the answer? Many thanks, G


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

sthlm said:


> Just received my Reverb. Looks great but from what I can tell the speed adjuster doesn't slow down the speed. Anyone experienced this and do you think a bleed will do any difference?
> 
> Cheers


Sounds like a bleed is in order. Just follow the instructions on Youtube, it is super easy to do. Reverb remote system bleed - YouTube
I had to cut the hose on mine from new and it had the same issue, once bled it was fine.
It may also be worth checking the air pressure as well, as it's not uncommon for the post to be under the 250psi it requires. Mine was at about 190psi out of the box.


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## Mattr (Mar 1, 2004)

Did SRAM change the hydro line or remote end barb? All the videos/comments indicate that it is easy to get the hose back over the barb but holy cow...I've spent the last hour weaseling the hose over the barb and can not, for the life of me, get it the last 1/32 to seat against the nut. I've left the bike in the stand and walked away after feeling the urge to throw tools against the wall. Tried a light touch with pliers and ended up mangling the hose, recut and used my hand, no joy...


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

Depends which version of the barb you have. the newer ones are threaded, so should be easier to get on. Although in saying that, it took me a fair bit of swearing and cursing and spilt oil getting the thing to go back on when I shortened my line.
The video instructions certainly make it _look_ easy to get in, but the reality sometimes appears to be a bit different.


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## Mattr (Mar 1, 2004)

Kiwiplague said:


> Depends which version of the barb you have. the newer ones are threaded, so should be easier to get on. Although in saying that, it took me a fair bit of swearing and cursing and spilt oil getting the thing to go back on when I shortened my line.
> The video instructions certainly make it _look_ easy to get in, but the reality sometimes appears to be a bit different.


Kiwi, thanks for the reply. I had watched the barbed video and mine 'looked' the same so I was trying to shove it on - I went back and watched the threaded video and tried that method (removing the remote) and it was is easy my 5 year old could have done it. <facepalm>. Sooooo if anyone else has problems, you might try the threaded method. FWIW mine says 2012 on the box....

No bleed necessary however, which makes me happy.


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

Mattr said:


> Did SRAM change the hydro line or remote end barb? All the videos/comments indicate that it is easy to get the hose back over the barb but holy cow...I've spent the last hour weaseling the hose over the barb and can not, for the life of me, get it the last 1/32 to seat against the nut. I've left the bike in the stand and walked away after feeling the urge to throw tools against the wall. Tried a light touch with pliers and ended up mangling the hose, recut and used my hand, no joy...


Sounds to me like maybe something is not right; it should just thread on there very easily just like the video - I just held the line pointing straight up and twirled the remote to screw the barb into the line - I've done it a few times and it was pretty straightforward.

Maybe a wrong or damaged part?, or the line is not cut totally flush? Did it go on very easily until that tiny bit?

The part that was frustrating for me was when I damaged my line from a crash, I did need to bleed the system and it was a mess - fluid gets all over the place because it leaks from the syringes - in the video, it looks so clean


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Just thought I'd offer some usefull info. If your post is dropping when you sit on it without pressing the button then it's time for a service mine started to do this so sent it to TF TUNED they upgrade a few bit like the 3 gold parts that stop side to side play they put in bigger ones . Anyway got it back and I had to remove the lever from the hose why internal hose frame. Anyway I needed to bleed it again done this by following pinkbike pics . Messed up my post would return so slow after a bleed. I figured out pinkbike said bleed with the lever on full fast mode .WRONG BLEED IN FULL SLOW ONLY .if you bleed it in fast mode the setting when you push the lever does the opisite from what it should so BLEED IN SLOW MODE hope that's usefull . Love my reverb


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## robin_hood (Feb 8, 2006)

how often are people bleeding the post?

I did a full bleed about 2 month ago and it's back to super slow?


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

robin_hood said:


> how often are people bleeding the post?
> 
> I did a full bleed about 2 month ago and it's back to super slow?


 I had one for a year never had to bleed it . Only had to bleed due to damaged hose . Check the psi at the bottom of the seatpost is should have 250psi . The post can loose air over time so that's the first thing to check


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## vikingboy (Nov 5, 2008)

mines been fitted since originally released and still doesnt need a bleed. If it aint broke dont try and fix it when it comes to suspension seatposts!


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## rr (Dec 28, 2003)

Sorry if this has been discussed here before, I went back a few pages. I just installed a Reverb and the instructions said do not use grease and use friction paste instead. I skipped the grease but didn't have any friction paste, do I really need to use the stuff?

I was careful not to over tighten the post clamp but not sure it's tight enough to hold it, the post seems to be working right, think I should torque down on the post clamp some more??


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Nope I've never used and paste or grease . You may on a carbon frame. ? I do my clamp up bit by bit little tweaks then ride it if it move while I'm out rideing I tweak it then again untill it stops moveing . A torx reanch is allways a good idear if you don't have one then follow common sence little tweaks only .


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

rroeder said:


> Sorry if this has been discussed here before, I went back a few pages. I just installed a Reverb and the instructions said do not use grease and use friction paste instead. I skipped the grease but didn't have any friction paste, do I really need to use the stuff?
> 
> I was careful not to over tighten the post clamp but not sure it's tight enough to hold it, the post seems to be working right, think I should torque down on the post clamp some more??


I had some slipping problems with my Reverb. The only fix was friction paste and a bolt on seat post collar (not the quick release kind). You can feel if your clamping the seat post collar too hard. If its too tight you will feel more resistance when you push the seat post down. Tighten it enough that it doesn't inhibit the mechanism.


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## budgie (May 14, 2004)

Sorry if this has been covered before -- long thread -- but wanted to run a Reverb air pressure issue by the committee. I installed a new (2012, black collar) post & having difficulties getting smooth, fast return after several thorough bleeds from both post and remote end (w/remote set to full slow). I've tried it with the seat collar completely loose, so I don't think it's a collar-binding issue. Here are the symptoms:
1) Remote lever action is very stiff. I really have to press on it to get it to budge.
2) Post return is quite slow even w/dial set to full fast. I'd estimate about 2-3 seconds to return to full height. Slower than any other post I've used.
3) There is a sound of air releasing each time I drop the post. Not a lot, but an audible "psssst."
4) Checking the air pressure it seems to drop to 150psi after actuating the post. (I've repeatedly pumped it back up to 250psi.)

I haven't ridden on the damn thing yet, but this doesn't seem normal. Nor does it sound exactly like the air seal failures people have been reporting (where all the air escapes at once) although this seems like the most logical explanation. Anyone care to offer a diagnosis? I'd bring it to the LBS, but the post came with a used bike that I bought (starting to realize why it was "included for free" ... go figure) so I'd rather not bother them if I can figure this out myself.

Thanks for any comments: they're much appreciated.


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## rr (Dec 28, 2003)

Thx for the input, I'm using a bolted collar, no QR. Sounds like I just need to ride it and see if it holds and adj if needed.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

budgie said:


> 4) Checking the air pressure it seems to drop to 150psi after actuating the post. (I've repeatedly pumped it back up to 250psi.)


Pretty sure you have an air leak. 150 is pretty low when checking after pumping up to 250. I think I usually get 180-220 or something around there after checking but never as low as 150. This is probably contributing to your other issues.


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## Rockland (May 18, 2007)

When you drop your Reverb post it does need to displace some volume of air in the seat tube ( Look at the bottom of your post. There are 3 small holes to allow the air displaced by the post shaft to escape. ) Depending on your frame's seat tube construction you may have very small, or none at all, vent hole at the bottom. Air escaping around the post clamp can hiss.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Rockland said:


> When you drop your Reverb post it does need to displace some volume of air in the seat tube ( Look at the bottom of your post. There are 3 small holes to allow the air displaced by the post shaft to escape. ) Depending on your frame's seat tube construction you may have very small, or none at all, vent hole at the bottom. Air escaping around the post clamp can hiss.


this is true on my old frame you could hear the hiss from the stem .


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## cammas (Aug 11, 2008)

I have done a quick flick through most of this thread in the last couple of days looking if anyone has changed the lower tube on their reverb. As I have an almost new 31.6 from my last bike and the new bike is a 30.9 and was wondering if anyone has done this as I have seen the the lower outer's on EBay for around $50.

If anyone has done it and if I can get away with just buying the lower tube only, or do I cut my losses and sell this one and just buy a 30.9.

Any info would helpful my main concern is the brass keys but I did some googling and read of one guy who did it and the keys were fine but wondering if anyone else can verify this.


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## stunzeed (Mar 17, 2007)

Broke the button on my reverb, cant find instructions on how to replace it. I bought the new button kit

any help appreciated


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## brent701 (Sep 17, 2012)

Question about hose routing... I looked back and did a search in this thread didn't find any info... 
I have a 2013 Trek Rumblefish. I just installed a 125mm drop Reverb and I am having a hell of a time tying to find a way to get the hose to not hit the back tire when the seat is down.. I have it routed through the factory holds under the frame and above the shock. 
Here are some pics. with the factory routing and my end result, hoping it won't hurt the line
Pic of it factory routed and full down. suspension max up travel. 


Pic of it down and max down travel. 


Pic of the end result on getting it away from the tire.. 
Will this work? no damage to the line from the bends? any ideas?


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Looks fine.infact I have the same problem and I'm going to copy yours . I don't see any other way round it . Will be ok like that


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## brent701 (Sep 17, 2012)

2013megaAM said:


> Looks fine.infact I have the same problem and I'm going to copy yours . I don't see any other way round it . Will be ok like that


tested it out today. Worked perfectly. No problems can't feel the line hit your legs at all and it's no where near the rear tire or suspension. good luck


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## rottenronny (Mar 16, 2010)

It looks to me like you have too much cable. I think you might need to trim it so that in the fully extended position the cable has a nice curve to the securing point on the frame.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

I think your hose routing is fine. It is the same that I use, but I also use the little Rockshox hose guide thing that came with the seatpost. You could use it right where you have that ziptie holding the hose to your seat tube. It's nice because it routs the hose away from your rear tire, it goes straight down so it doesn't get hung up in your leg and it won't kink the hose.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

Laterilus said:


> I think your hose routing is fine. It is the same that I use, but I also use the little Rockshox hose guide thing that came with the seatpost. You could use it right where you have that ziptie holding the hose to your seat tube. It's nice because it routs the hose away from your rear tire, it goes straight down so it doesn't get hung up in your leg and it won't kink the hose.


this is how i have mine setup on my Rumblefish and works perfectly!!


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Hi I've had my reverb for over a year it's also been serviced by TF 6 weeks ago now . My seat post has just started to return slower and slower . I've checked the psi it's fine no air leeks nothing . I've also bled it 3 times and its 100% air free . I know the reverb very well bleeding it checking it I'm at a head scratcher as to why it is now returning slowly ?? Any ideas ?


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

2013megaAM said:


> Hi I've had my reverb for over a year it's also been serviced by TF 6 weeks ago now . My seat post has just started to return slower and slower . I've checked the psi it's fine no air leeks nothing . I've also bled it 3 times and its 100% air free . I know the reverb very well bleeding it checking it I'm at a head scratcher as to why it is now returning slowly ?? Any ideas ?


 NOW SOLVED . If you have this problem turn the lever to full slow then press the lever with your seat post up you should see the lever stays in . Now push more oil in and you will see the lever pop back out . Job done. After turn to full fast and your seat post will return like a ejector seat really fast . So remember bleed in full slow not fast . The system takes more oil in slow mode so if you bleed in fast and finish in fast then you won't have enough oil in the lever . Hope that makes sence


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## c3024446 (Apr 16, 2010)

I'm thinking about getting a Reverb, but want to confirm something first. I store my bikes at home like this, with a bar under the seat (works well) can you do this with a Reverb?


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

Yep, won't be a problem to store them like that!


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## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

c3024446 said:


> I'm thinking about getting a Reverb, but want to confirm something first. I store my bikes at home like this, with a bar under the seat (works well) can you do this with a Reverb?


As long as the seat is extended it should be fine. If you go to a bike demo, almost all the bikes are stored like this, droppers or no.

Someone else is going to tell you not to do it, but if the post is fully extended, you're not putting pressure on any of the delicate internal bits.


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## fasteddyb (May 12, 2009)

skyno said:


> Perfect advice Lat! You're the man - followed your instructions and it worked perfectly - I'm back in business with my Reverb working better than before my wreck + $7 fix - already had the fluid & you can get replacement barb on Amazon


Hey,

I've got this issue as well with a 2012 reverb, but can't release the post via this valve... I was wondering what kind of tool you used?

Thanks


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

fasteddyb said:


> Hey,
> 
> I've got this issue as well with a 2012 reverb, but can't release the post via this valve... I was wondering what kind of tool you used?
> 
> Thanks


I did this a few weeks ago so I don't even remember exactly what tool I used - I think I just grabbed something I had handy - I want to say it was just the flat end of an Allen wrench. I do remember that you have to put a pretty good amount of pressure to push it in - in my case, no oil came out at all, the seat just extended as I pushed in the valve - good luck


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## fasteddyb (May 12, 2009)

skyno said:


> I did this a few weeks ago so I don't even remember exactly what tool I used - I think I just grabbed something I had handy - I want to say it was just the flat end of an Allen wrench. I do remember that you have to put a pretty good amount of pressure to push it in - in my case, no oil came out at all, the seat just extended as I pushed in the valve - good luck


Tried this a couple of things... But can't get to work atm.... Will try when I get home...


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## rr (Dec 28, 2003)

So I installed my Reverb a week or so ago, I had to shorten the line and did a quick bleed of the remote, it was working fine after the bleed. Unfortunately I had a shifter issue and couldn't ride the bike so I hung it up till I got a replacement. I went to install the shifter today and noticed the post would not lower at all, wouldn't budge. Thought maybe some air was still in the system so I tried bleeding the remote several times, no go. Even tried doing a full bleed at the post, still would not work. I took it off and did notice a little fluid at the top of the post below the saddle clamp. Any ideas?, my shop says it's probably a bad bleed but why did it work before I hung it up?? I'm pretty sure there's no air in the system.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

rroeder said:


> So I installed my Reverb a week or so ago, I had to shorten the line and did a quick bleed of the remote, it was working fine after the bleed. Unfortunately I had a shifter issue and couldn't ride the bike so I hung it up till I got a replacement. I went to install the shifter today and noticed the post would not lower at all, wouldn't budge. Thought maybe some air was still in the system so I tried bleeding the remote several times, no go. Even tried doing a full bleed at the post, still would not work. I took it off and did notice a little fluid at the top of the post below the saddle clamp. Any ideas?, my shop says it's probably a bad bleed but why did it work before I hung it up?? I'm pretty sure there's no air in the system.


 I have had this before because I followed pinkbike on how to do a bleed and they said bleed it with the remote in full fast mode . Wrong always bleed it in slow mode . So when you get to the last part of the bleed make sure the remote is in full slow and give it one last pump of oil . That's it then turn it to full fast before pushing the seat down . So to recap when doing the final bleed of the remote finish in slow mode with one pull and then push of oil . If you finish in fast mode you end up with a gap of oil in the remote so when you push on the seat post in fast mode the oil can not move hence post don't go down . So give it ago it worked for me .good luck


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Sorry it leaves no gap in the oil for it to move . Think about it when it's in slow mode the remote needs more oil . If you have done this wrong you will see when the remote is in slow mode that the lever button does not fully return but it will if you turn it to full fast . Sorry it's confusing I know but I'm sure this is your problem and if you bleed the remote finish in slow mode I'm sure this will fix it


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## rr (Dec 28, 2003)

Thx but I did do that, bleed it with dial backed all the way out to full slow. Shop says bad bleed or hose not installed on remote properly. I followed the video's to a tee, the thing worked fine afterwards? Maybe air is getting into the system at the remote but there is zero fluid leak, there was a little fluid at the top of the post under the saddle clamp when I took it off the bike. Regardless it's going to the shop, hopefully this isn't a sign of things to come.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

rroeder said:


> Thx but I did do that, bleed it with dial backed all the way out to full slow. Shop says bad bleed or hose not installed on remote properly. I followed the video's to a tee, the thing worked fine afterwards? Maybe air is getting into the system at the remote but there is zero fluid leak, there was a little fluid at the top of the post under the saddle clamp when I took it off the bike. Regardless it's going to the shop, hopefully this isn't a sign of things to come.


I had to cut my hose and it does not fit back on the remote very well infact the hose just turns round and round but I've had no problems with air getting in atall . I think yes you had done all the right things so must be something inside like it could be one of the 3 gold bushings that has moved making the post stick. To be honest sounds like bad luck I've had mine over a year with no problems . I needed to send it off to TF for a service when the post started to drop a inch when on the seat . But with the service I got upgraded gold bushings that are bigger than the standard ones that makes the side to side play Evan less and a upgrade to the remote barb . Hope the shop get it sorted for you


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## bpnic (Aug 14, 2005)

Hi Guys-

2011 Reverb, silver collar

Original problem: Sheared hose barb at seat. Replaced barb.

Issues:

-Post was just bled by me successfully (as in the few times over the years as well) Not sure position of rebound adjuster during bleed, so I will re-bleed with it in slow position.

-With all air removed from air chamber, post extends to full 5" 
As I put air into the Schrader valve, the inner shaft sucks down. When I get the chamber full at 250psi, the post has sucked down into a vacuum with 2" of spongy travel available. Pressing the lever does not change the position of the post. It stays sucked down about 50-70%, until I release air from the chamber.

I had it quickly apart at the bottom to swap the lowest o-ring, but it didn't help.

Any ideas? No warranty, and I'm desperate. I've resorted to using a Kronolog as a temporary replacment...

Thx!


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

bpnic said:


> Hi Guys-
> 
> 2011 Reverb, silver collar
> 
> ...


 It sounds like you have air and oil mixed together inside the post . I don't know how you fix this but this is what was wrong with mine and TF tuned told me this . £97 full service at TF includes upgraded parts to . Hope that helps


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## N0Mad (Oct 5, 2008)

2013megaAM said:


> It sounds like you have air and oil mixed together inside the post . I don't know how you fix this but this is what was wrong with mine and TF tuned told me this . £97 full service at TF includes upgraded parts to . Hope that helps


Exactly, air trapped inside the oil volume in the post itself (not in the remote line). I had the same problem, solved it w/o full rebuild, but I can't recommend this approach (described it here - RockShox Reverb Thread - Page 58). Better to do full rebuild in this case.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Started to have troubles with mine . The remote is sucking in air somehow .? When I go out the post is fast after one ride I get back and it's slow and that's on full fast mode. So I bleed the remote and air comes out then all is good . Then after one ride it does it again ? I've put a tinny bit of sealant around the remote hose but still I get the same thing . I'm haveing to bleed the remote after each ride now . I've also done a full bleed just in case it was trapped air in the line . I'm a little stumped as to what to try now any clues ? Cheers


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Someone please tell me what's happening with my Reverb today. It was an hour long trip to the trail head and the bike was on the hitch rack for the duration in direct sun all the way, temps today were above 90 F. I unload the bike and usually travel with the Reverb slammed, never extended, but today it worked itself all the way to the extended position. You would proceed to drop it down, it would stay for a second or two, and then slowly started creeping up to the fully extended position by itself. When you put weight on it, it didn't lock down, it simply was returning to the slammed position.

Took it out of the frame and noticed wet spots/sweating of oil right under the Schrader valve. Also my seat tube was looking more oily than greasy. So I hooked up a pump to it and released all the pressure. Pumped it back up to 250 psi but it wasn't locking at all, just kept on creeping to the top from the slammed position. I repeated this process about 4-5 times and started riding. It was almost working but it would creep back down a millimeter or two from the extended position. So I again released all the pressure once or twice and pumped it back up to 250. It was sorta better but not wishing to stand there in the heat and get bitten by mosquitoes, I proceeded on the trail. 

During the ride, there were times where it would creep back down again a few millimeters but it wasn't constant. I would drop it down fully, extend it fully, and it would stay put until the next time I would fully drop it down. Sometimes it wouldn't stay put.

After the 3 hour ride, I would say it stayed put in place and fully locked in the extended position, as I would press the remote when it was "fully" extended and it didn't move up. 

Question is what was the cause of all this? Did the oil during transport simply get too hot and built up too much pressure in the line? Hence the sweating spots? Do I have air in the line now too? Should I re-bleed it?

Lastly, if the fluid did get hot during transport, what's the best remedy for the future? Should I be releasing all pressure from the post when traveling and filling it back up before I start riding?


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

eurospek said:


> Someone please tell me what's happening with my Reverb today. It was an hour long trip to the trail head and the bike was on the hitch rack for the duration in direct sun all the way, temps today were above 90 F. I unload the bike and usually travel with the Reverb slammed, never extended, but today it worked itself all the way to the extended position. You would proceed to drop it down, it would stay for a second or two, and then slowly started creeping up to the fully extended position by itself. When you put weight on it, it didn't lock down, it simply was returning to the slammed position.
> 
> Took it out of the frame and noticed wet spots/sweating of oil right under the Schrader valve. Also my seat tube was looking more oily than greasy. So I hooked up a pump to it and released all the pressure. Pumped it back up to 250 psi but it wasn't locking at all, just kept on creeping to the top from the slammed position. I repeated this process about 4-5 times and started riding. It was almost working but it would creep back down a millimeter or two from the extended position. So I again released all the pressure once or twice and pumped it back up to 250. It was sorta better but not wishing to stand there in the heat and get bitten by mosquitoes, I proceeded on the trail.
> 
> ...


 yes you should bleed it . Yes it could have been the heat I all way try to keep my bike in the shade when not in use mainly because I run tubeless tires . How old is your post ?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

2013megaAM said:


> yes you should bleed it . Yes it could have been the heat I all way try to keep my bike in the shade when not in use mainly because I run tubeless tires . How old is your post ?


Well the bikes are stored in the garage when not in use. My post is a 2012 Reverb, used last season, and it's been fully rebuilt by SRAM this spring, only 2 months of riding since the rebuild.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

I think I'm going to hold off on the re-bleed. Just spoke with SRAM over the phone and the tech said the built up pressure would be normal in hot weather like this especially if the remote was set to fast rebound like I have it set to. He did recommend setting the remote to slow rebound which would stop the post from creeping up from the built up pressure, yet it would still return like it would on the fast setting because of the built up pressure. I'm going to keep an eye on this and update if anything changes.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

I'm thinking of buying a reverb stealth .but I can not see where you put the air in and do you need a valve to put air in ?


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

eurospek said:


> Someone please tell me what's happening with my Reverb today. It was an hour long trip to the trail head and the bike was on the hitch rack for the duration in direct sun all the way, temps today were above 90 F. I unload the bike and usually travel with the Reverb slammed, never extended, but today it worked itself all the way to the extended position. You would proceed to drop it down, it would stay for a second or two, and then slowly started creeping up to the fully extended position by itself. When you put weight on it, it didn't lock down, it simply was returning to the slammed position.
> 
> Took it out of the frame and noticed wet spots/sweating of oil right under the Schrader valve. Also my seat tube was looking more oily than greasy. So I hooked up a pump to it and released all the pressure. Pumped it back up to 250 psi but it wasn't locking at all, just kept on creeping to the top from the slammed position. I repeated this process about 4-5 times and started riding. It was almost working but it would creep back down a millimeter or two from the extended position. So I again released all the pressure once or twice and pumped it back up to 250. It was sorta better but not wishing to stand there in the heat and get bitten by mosquitoes, I proceeded on the trail.
> 
> ...


Sounds like you blew out this seal:


It happens. You have to make sure you keep the inner seal head torqued down very tight. Mine has come uncrewed at times then you lose air pressure. I recently rebuilt mine again because my inner seal head unscrewed and blew out this seal. This time, I put some blue loctite on the threads and everything seems to be holding pretty good now. The o-ring seal size is 2mm thick by 19mm inner diameter. It is a perfect fit. You can get them cheap at the oringstore.com. I've measured up all the o-rings inside the reverb and have come up with a fairly good fit for most of them. You can also get the inner seal head o-rings (and charger bushing, which consequently doesn't last but about a half to 3/4 of a season for me) in the reverb 'light' rebuild kit for $8. That's actually a pretty good deal considering these are the parts that wear out the most. The post creeping and the 'sweating' of oil and grease around the schraeder valve definitely sound like inner seal head issues. You might want to change out all the o-rings on the inner seal head while you are on the inside of the post. A full post bleed wouldn't hurt either.

Oh, while I'm thinking about it, I finally wore out my first set of keys the other day. I started to notice my Reverb getting a bit of slop in the post, so I figured it was time to change the keys (1.5 years later). I noticed all of my keys had some worn in flat spots. I measured the diameter of them all and got some surprising results. First of all, the keys are very similar in size. Hundreths of a millimeter is all that separates the different keys. My post uses the ones with the 3 lines on them. The size of each with 3 lines is 2.65mm. The size of the 4 line keys is 2.67mm. Yeah, that close. My worn out, 3 line keys were 2.62mm. Amazingly enough, that was enough wear for me to notice while seated. Since they are so close in size, I decided to put in the 4 line keys at a whopping 0.02mm larger than the 3 line keys. It worked, and not only that, the post has almost no play at all. I think I'll keep with the 4 line keys in my post (30.9mm diameter, 380mm long version).


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

2013megaAM said:


> I'm thinking of buying a reverb stealth .but I can not see where you put the air in and do you need a valve to put air in ?


It is underneath the saddle clamp. You have to remove your saddle to access it.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Laterilus said:


> It is underneath the saddle clamp. You have to remove your saddle to access it.


 Brill that's why I could not see it thanks


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## jhtopilko (Oct 20, 2012)

Laterilus said:


> I think your hose routing is fine. It is the same that I use, but I also use the little Rockshox hose guide thing that came with the seatpost. You could use it right where you have that ziptie holding the hose to your seat tube. It's nice because it routs the hose away from your rear tire, it goes straight down so it doesn't get hung up in your leg and it won't kink the hose.


Do you have pics of where the hose comes out at the front? How did you enlarge the hole?


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## dog (Aug 9, 2006)

1) laterilus... I hope that is not a crack in the support between the top and down tube in your frame... 

2) SRAM, after refusing to initially look at my seat post, did decide to warranty it... But only after a couple of months of waiting for the proprietary tools to do the maintenance that was supposed to have fixed this pogoing problem...


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

So my post is definitely creeping in travel from full extension. Getting to the trail head with the rebound in the slowest position and hot weather did solve the pressure issue BUT it will drop down a few millimeters during the ride at random times. I may try a rebleed but I doubt it will fix anything. It's going back to REI and let SRAM deal with it. This time I'm going to push for a new post and not a rebuild. It's crazy I'm seeing the same problem as last year with only 2 months since the supposed full rebuild by SRAM and yet I'm 50+ lbs lighter this season which at first thought was the problem last year. But I started dropping in travel in early September, almost after a full season of riding.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

jhtopilko: I did not enlarge the hole. I only stuck the hose in between the shock and frame. I used Jagwire's stick on guides near the internal routing hole up to my handlebar. Not as nice looking as the internal routing, but it gets the job done. I can take a picture for you if you want. You don't need to enlarge the hole to get the hose through, but you'll have to really push on it for awhile.

dog: Good catch. I noticed that as well after I took the picture. Scared the crap out of me. Ended up being a hair stuck to my frame. 

eurospek: A rebleed on the hose will not solve the issue. I posted above which seal more than likely needs to be changed out. The o-rings are very cheap and can be found online. You can do the service yourself and it will be much faster than sending it into SRAM. Sure, it is no fun when things go bad in a couple of months, but unfortunately we all have to deal with these problems on dropper posts. They all require a lot of maintenance. Sometimes the o-rings last 6-8 months. Sometimes they last two months. Oh well, I love my dropper post and wouldn't ride without it now so I just fix the problem when a seal goes bad. Another thing you can do to test which seal is bad (assuming you don't have the same problem I posted) is to first remove the inner post from the outer post, re-install the bottom cap on the air shaft and pump the post back up to 250psi. Jiggle the inner shaft around. Is air coming out? If so, the inside seal of the inner seal head is blown and needs replacing. I know SRAM just rebuilt your post, but I never trust the lackeys that are hired by the manufacturers. Good chance the person that rebuilt your post only changed a couple of o-rings and didn't rebuild the whole thing so the seal that is actually blown on your post could be an old one.


----------



## jhtopilko (Oct 20, 2012)

Pictures would be very much appreciated! 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Laterilus said:


> eurospek: A rebleed on the hose will not solve the issue. I posted above which seal more than likely needs to be changed out. The o-rings are very cheap and can be found online. You can do the service yourself and it will be much faster than sending it into SRAM. Sure, it is no fun when things go bad in a couple of months, but unfortunately we all have to deal with these problems on dropper posts. They all require a lot of maintenance. Sometimes the o-rings last 6-8 months. Sometimes they last two months. Oh well, I love my dropper post and wouldn't ride without it now so I just fix the problem when a seal goes bad. Another thing you can do to test which seal is bad (assuming you don't have the same problem I posted) is to first remove the inner post from the outer post, re-install the bottom cap on the air shaft and pump the post back up to 250psi. Jiggle the inner shaft around. Is air coming out? If so, the inside seal of the inner seal head is blown and needs replacing. I know SRAM just rebuilt your post, but I never trust the lackeys that are hired by the manufacturers. Good chance the person that rebuilt your post only changed a couple of o-rings and didn't rebuild the whole thing so the seal that is actually blown on your post could be an old one.


Thanks for this post and your previous post, definitely learned something for future maintenance. Like you said so yourself, I can't see myself riding without a dropper post as well. It has made me a much more aggressive rider as I've used to run my Thomson post sky high for pedaling efficiency and never really bothered dropping it on the downhills or aggressive riding. When I first brought the post to my LBS, they could only get SRAM to send a full rebuild kit, the $50 one, but I ended up taking it back to REI which sent it off to SRAM for the supposed rebuild. If the post was out of warranty, then for sure I would pop it open myself and try the rebuild as the LBS wanted $100 or so for it. But since my 2 year warranty expires in March 2014, I'm going to let SRAM deal with it, and push for a new post. Plus last turn around time for me was quick, under a week since I live in Chicago anyway. Shipping to and from takes a day.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

jhtopilko said:


> Pictures would be very much appreciated!
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2


I'm using these things from Jagwire:
Amazon.com: Jagwire Alloy Stick-On Guides w/ C-Clips Black, Box/3: Sports & Outdoors


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## project_d (Jun 1, 2007)

stunzeed said:


> Broke the button on my reverb, cant find instructions on how to replace it. I bought the new button kit
> 
> any help appreciated


Instructions should come with the new button. It's pretty easy. Basically turn speed knob to the slow setting, detach remote from hose, take off the "u" clip that holds the button shaft in place, reverse steps, bleed. The bleed will take longer than all other steps combined.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

project_d said:


> Instructions should come with the new button. It's pretty easy. Basically turn speed knob to the slow setting, detach remote from hose, take off the "u" clip that holds the button shaft in place, reverse steps, bleed. The bleed will take longer than all other steps combined.


 Yes screw the new button on the hose don't just push it on the pin. Screwing it on gives a much better fit I found . Bleed in slow mode and finish the bleed by bleeding the button then one final push of oil into the button . Then pop screw in then adjust to the speed you like job done


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## jhtopilko (Oct 20, 2012)

Laterilus said:


> I'm using these things from Jagwire:
> Amazon.com: Jagwire Alloy Stick-On Guides w/ C-Clips Black, Box/3: Sports & Outdoors


Thanks!! 
Installed same. Cut 4" of hose. Still hope to internally route after Hinton trip. I hope to pick up guides tonight.
After Wednesday's ride, my first with the post, I am sold on the value. Really adds value to the experience.


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## bjunsveltie (Oct 27, 2006)

cant troll the whole post. Crashed. Reverb stealth. Wont go up. I pull it up and it sucks right back down. 
pressure is good, blead it. 

WTF - how do I get it up......ha ha. 

thanks.


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## bpnic (Aug 14, 2005)

I have the same problem, and was told on page 62 that a full factory rebuild is needed. I was also told that runs about$170 US bucks. Crap.



bjunsveltie said:


> cant troll the whole post. Crashed. Reverb stealth. Wont go up. I pull it up and it sucks right back down.
> pressure is good, blead it.
> 
> WTF - how do I get it up......ha ha.
> ...


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## bpnic (Aug 14, 2005)

Does anyone know of a place in the US in which to send my out of warranty Reverb for a complete rebuild? Besides Sram?


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

bjunsveltie said:


> cant troll the whole post. Crashed. Reverb stealth. Wont go up. I pull it up and it sucks right back down.
> pressure is good, blead it.
> 
> WTF - how do I get it up......ha ha.
> ...


Take off the saddle - poppet valve release is underneath - push down on the valve with a blunt object - you may have to push it firmly and a bit of fluid may leak out, but it will pop right back to extended position


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## N0Mad (Oct 5, 2008)

skyno said:


> Take off the saddle - poppet valve release is underneath - push down on the valve with a blunt object - you may have to push it firmly and a bit of fluid may leak out, but it will pop right back to extended position


he has stealth version, as I know there's an air chamber valve on it under the saddle clamp.
poppet valve is there only on the "normal" version.

Stealth:
Rockshox Reverb Stealth post cutaway | Art?s Cyclery Blog

"Normal":
https://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb7346907/p4pb7346907.jpg


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## mhopton (Nov 27, 2005)

No luck searching this huge thread for the past few days. Relatively new reverb with less than 200 miles on it that has a bit of fore/aft play in the shaft. Are there any quick fixes, or things to check before I deal with taking it off and sending it back?


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

Which length of Rock Shox reverb is suitable for my height, which is 178cm?

How reliable and durable is this dropper seat?


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## wackerb (Sep 19, 2008)

*Oil Height Tool*

Hi, I'm facing a rebuild and search didn't help. Does anyone know the measurements to use instead of having to buy the "oil height tool" and the "IFP height tool". Thx.


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## peanutaxis (Aug 19, 2011)

The oil height tool's markings are at the same height as the range of heights that the dropper post. So if you have a 100mm post use 100mm and 125mm post use 125mm

I did it without the IFP tool, I just used a thin tube and syringe - kind of like what you use to bleed brakes - and I just guessed it and it turned out fine.


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## Hazbo (Apr 5, 2007)

Hi all,

It's been a while since I've been on this post as everything had been working perfectly... 

I bought the first generation Rockshox reverb seat post in late 2010. It has worked no problem since I purchased it, beyond the usual service, remote and/or full bleed. Each time this made the post work like new and I have never had an issue with it.

The last couple of weeks when weighted it was dropping about 10/20mm. I performed a full bleed on it as I had done many a time. Now the seat will not compress and it is now stuck in the up position. You can push the remote in and the bleed went the same as all the rest of them.
What did I do next?
- Checked the air pressure is was low at 150 PSI, I topped this up to 250 PSI - same issue
- I put it back to 150 PSI - same issue
- I carried out another full bleed - same issue
- Adjusting the speed dial on the remote makes no difference
- The seat collar is not too tight

The only other reference I have found to this is getting a full service which is not cheap. Has anyone had any experience with this and successfully fixed it? I'm happy and fairly capable to get my hands dirty!

Thanks for you help


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Hazbo said:


> Hi all,
> 
> It's been a while since I've been on this post as everything had been working perfectly...
> 
> ...


 hi yes it's time for a full service. The post dropping down a few mm is the sighn. £90 at TF tuned does include upgraded parts like new barb for remote and gold bigger bushing things that are bigger than the old ones so no side to side play post works smoother.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

You could buy the complete service parts for less than $100. Why don't you do it yourself. 

Any issues with the 2013 version?


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## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

rave81 said:


> You could buy the complete service parts for less than $100. Why don't you do it yourself.


The best way to fix a broken 2010 and 2011 Reverb is to buy a new KS Eten for $138 shipped.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I've been riding my new Reverb Seatpost-30.9x420mm 125drop- for 2 weeks now. 

I shortened the cable a few inches, did a poor job bleeding, repeated the bleed correctly the second time. Now it will work perfectly after the bleed but the next day the post goes up-down really slowly. Done 2 more bleeds after cutting the cable down again just in case that was the problem.

Still seems to be getting more air into the system.

I'm also losing air goes from 250psi down to 200 in a week. 

Does anyone else regret not buying the KS Lev??? Does anyone think that the hydraulic remote is rediculous???


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

unrooted said:


> Does anyone think that the hydraulic remote is rediculous???


Not really, no. Bled mine (2012 model) after trimming the line on install and have never had any issues whatsoever since. Had to put more air into post as it shipped with only 200psi instead of 250, but that seems to be pretty normal from what I've read.

If yours is new, maybe you should get it repaired/replaced under warranty, or return for a refund if you're not happy with it, then you can get a LEV:thumbsup:


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I actually got the post for almost free- I had ordered a RS 20mm thru axle from an online retailer, they, for some reason sent me a Reverb instead. I called the company, sent them an email with no response. So I have this brand new Reverb that works really well, when it is working. Not sure RS would deal with me on a warranty since I don't have a receipt. Figured since the shop I ordered from has such horrible customer service I would keep it. Ended up buying a new frame, and wheels because of it!

I just ordered the RS rebuild kit, I'll try changing out some of the o-rings, and possibly doing a full rebuild. This will put the seatpost at around $100 plus tools which is a decent price for a dropper, but if I were to pay full price I would be returning the post and buying a LEV.


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

Sounds like they won't be in business long if they keep making those sort of errors!


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

The website is not working anymore, it was one I had never heard of before but they actually claimed to have the 20mm axle in stock which was hard to find nowadays.


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

CRC still has 20mm axles if you are still after one - Rock Shox Maxle Lite | Chain Reaction Cycles

Let us know how you get on with the reverb rebuild too.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I found one on Amazon. Thank you though.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

Cable pull usually are unreliable when it set. My giant contact switch dropper post, it works fine, however when i use it during rain season, its very unreliable. Also I've change the cable twice within 6 months. 

I'm looking forward to install my new rock shox reverb 2013 version once it arrive. This is more reliable during wet season and if you know how to bled brakes with. Is easier and faster to maintain. 

I think those who are having trouble with their rock shox are all pre 2012 version. My mates who uses 2012 and 2013 they don't have any problems nor required rebleedong their reverbs.


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## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

I've had my reverb since February, without a single problem (that was probably a mistake). I've demoed a few cable versions and didn't like them at all. I tend to think that the lev is as good, but not really better than the reverb. So no, I don't regret it at all. In fact, it's made riding this summer so much fun.


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## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

unrooted said:


> Does anyone think that the hydraulic remote is rediculous???


Yes. It is a design complication without any practical benefits. The cheap ass cable remote of the KS eTen runs circles around the Reverb and survives even fairly rough crashes. I do not see how weather elements are more affecting the dropper cable than i.e. derailleurs of cable brakes.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I think the air valve is losing air, can I replace the valve with any ol' schrader valve?

Is there a list of dimensions for all of the o-rings?


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

Mr.Quint said:


> I've had my reverb since February, without a single problem (that was probably a mistake). I've demoed a few cable versions and didn't like them at all. I tend to think that the lev is as good, but not really bhage you tried oetter than the reverb. So no, I don't regret it at all. In fact, it's made riding this summer so much fun.


Have you tried or considered fox doss. It has rave review on the net and provided it is built by fox, so I'm expecting superb quality, reliability and durability as their fork and rear suspensions.

The more I research about the reverb the more I'm doubting that I'll purchased that product.

I got a bargain with the fox doss, I just bought it for $314Aud compared to reverb $468 Aud.


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## Rey Recinto (Mar 15, 2005)

My reverb has been working for more than a year...but had to change the barb when broke it....brought it to the SRAM distributor here in PHL...and came back after 4 days... have bled it once and has been working fine...I usually hold my bike under the pole when I am resting...no problem since then...



Mr.Quint said:


> As long as the seat is extended it should be fine. If you go to a bike demo, almost all the bikes are stored like this, droppers or no.
> 
> Someone else is going to tell you not to do it, but if the post is fully extended, you're not putting pressure on any of the delicate internal bits.


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## someoldfart (Mar 14, 2013)

You people who believe the post is loosing air. You realize when you attach the pump that the air in the reverb has to also fill the pump and therefore when the two air chambers equalize it will look as though the psi is lower. Try this. Air up the post to 250, remove the pump and then reattach and see what the psi is. I think you'll find that you may not be loosing pressure. The hydraulic actuation on the reverb is much more consistent than the cable actuated posts I have used. Cable systems became fouled with dirt thrown up by the rear wheel very quickly. That was a KS and a Joplin.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

someoldfart said:


> You people who believe the post is loosing air. You realize when you attach the pump that the air in the reverb has to also fill the pump and therefore when the two air chambers equalize it will look as though the psi is lower. Try this. Air up the post to 250, remove the pump and then reattach and see what the psi is. I think you'll find that you may not be loosing pressure. The hydraulic actuation on the reverb is much more consistent than the cable actuated posts I have used. Cable systems became fouled with dirt thrown up by the rear wheel very quickly. That was a KS and a Joplin.


When I take the "250 PSI CAP" off I can hear a hiss.


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## hssp (Aug 28, 2007)

unrooted said:


> Does anyone think that the hydraulic remote is rediculous???


It is more robust than a cable when it comes to wet, muddy conditions. I had a KS i950 with a cable, and here in Norway, it was horrible when wet. The outer cable filled with water and dirt and then eventually rust. With a LEV integra, it will eliminate a weak spot with hiding the cable end.


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## istvisinet (May 20, 2008)

Quickest way to figure out if there is a air leak and where it really is coming from is to remove the post and hold it upside down and fill the bottom area with water. Then just look for bubbles. Make sure if the pressure is already low that you first pump it up to 250. I am on post # 7, I think, and all of them starting leaking from under the snap ring that holds the outer and inner together. Never had an issue with the valve itself leaking. If Rock Shox would simply give me a refund, I would go buy another product like the KS or maybe the giant and never look back.


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## panzer103 (Jun 23, 2008)

Wow, cool! Which placed did you order from ,wink wink, lol.

Im having issues with mine. Its a first gen reverb. Its soft until mid stroke then it wont go anymore and it wont rebound. Im hoping its just a bleed. Fingers crossed! Oh, are there alternative fluids that could be used instead of RS hydro... fluid?


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## ruscle (Jun 19, 2011)

panzer103 said:


> are there alternative fluids that could be used instead of RS hydro... fluid?


Yeah, any 2.5wt suspension fluid will do it and be cheaper.


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## brandaopj (Dec 27, 2012)

Hi,

I´ve got a reverb from 2013 and before i cut the hose it works nice.
After i´ve cuted the hose, it is stucked in lower position. If i pulled it up by hand it drops down again without pressing the remote.

Any idea of what i could do to fix it?


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

son-of-a-gun failed on me, and its RACE DAY!

it was losing pressure and it would not hold it in! argghhhhh


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Reverb going KS Lev Integra the right choice!


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## 661lee (Apr 11, 2007)

brandaopj said:


> Hi,
> 
> I´ve got a reverb from 2013 and before i cut the hose it works nice.
> After i´ve cuted the hose, it is stucked in lower position. If i pulled it up by hand it drops down again without pressing the remote.
> ...


Sounds like you need to bleed it.


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## raceface_lefty (Sep 11, 2010)

brandaopj said:


> Hi,
> 
> I´ve got a reverb from 2013 and before i cut the hose it works nice.
> After i´ve cuted the hose, it is stucked in lower position. If i pulled it up by hand it drops down again without pressing the remote.
> ...


You have not put enough fluid into the system.

Make sure the speed is turned to slow to open up the reservoir and connect the syringe to the remote. Then pump the remote while pushing on the syringe.

Lastly, wind the speed adjuster to fast and slow 5 times while pushing on the syringe.

The remote button must be fully extended before you remove the syringe. Do this procedure and your reverb will be hundreds.


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## wncunderground (Feb 4, 2008)

I am getting an air hissing noise coming from the remote end of the hose when I compress the lever. The post works fine. Insight or ideas are appreciated


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Post goes up super fast immediately following a bleed, then the following day it is much slower. I replaced the o-ring at the seatpost bleed valve. any other ideas for a 'quick-fix'?


Can I use any hydraulic hose? Can I use a hose that has already been used for a brake-line?


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

Dude just purchase a fox doss and use a power cordz, your out have these issues.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

When you put the hydraulic hose on do you screw it on, or push it on???


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## xhailofgunfirex (Jun 25, 2008)

You screw it on.



unrooted said:


> When you put the hydraulic hose on do you screw it on, or push it on???


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Susan673 said:


> anyone know if you can put a spacer or something to limit the travel on the reverb? its a smidge too long for me.


Enduro Collar is made specifically for this, $20 here:RockShox Reverb Enduro Height Collar Silver


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## jaulomero (Apr 27, 2008)

Hello:
Could anyone tell me the internal seal quad ring size of the remote 2012?
Thanks in advance


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## jaulomero (Apr 27, 2008)

Hello:
Could anyone tell me remote quad ring seal size of the remote?
Thanks in advance and excuse my English


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

Has anyone experienced their reverb return speed barrel being stuck?

I have been using mine close to two years. Since I found a good setting on my return speed, I haven't touched it ever since.

Now that I need to do a bleed on it, I can't move the barrel adjuster to full slow. It seems to be stuck.


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## vikingboy (Nov 5, 2008)

i'd soak it in that thread penetrating stuff, that will help get some movement on it. Im the same though, set mine and never touched it since.


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## redmr2_man (Jun 10, 2008)

I started having a weird problem on my 2013. When I sit on the bike or put pressure on the seat, the reverb sinks down about half an inch.

I rebled it twice, oil was dark and nasty. Comes up super fast, works flawless...but still sinks down a half inch when you sit on the seat. Does it need an internal rebuild? Warranty?


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

redmr2_man said:


> I started having a weird problem on my 2013. When I sit on the bike or put pressure on the seat, the reverb sinks down about half an inch.
> 
> I rebled it twice, oil was dark and nasty. Comes up super fast, works flawless...but still sinks down a half inch when you sit on the seat. Does it need an internal rebuild? Warranty?


 Yes I had this problem . I rang TF they said its time for a service . Cost £98 for full servic that include updated internal parts


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## redmr2_man (Jun 10, 2008)

2013megaAM said:


> Yes I had this problem . I rang TF they said its time for a service . Cost £98 for full servic that include updated internal parts


what internal parts are updated on the 2014, vs the 2013?


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

redmr2_man said:


> what internal parts are updated on the 2014, vs the 2013?


The barb on remote and the 3 gold things inside the post that stop side to side play . You get 3 bigger gold pins that are bigger than old ones so a much better fit . TF SAID that the post starts dropping by 10mm or more when oil and air gets mixed together hence time for a service . Mine has been flawless since service for 6 months


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

lucky me. they are replacing my REVERB with a new one.. anyway to tell if its 2014 without opening the internals up..


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

bapski said:


> lucky me. they are replacing my REVERB with a new one.. anyway to tell if its 2014 without opening the internals up..


No way unless you look inside but even looking inside will be hard to tell. I'd assume a 2014 replacement would be upgraded .


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## raceface_lefty (Sep 11, 2010)

bapski said:


> lucky me. they are replacing my REVERB with a new one.. anyway to tell if its 2014 without opening the internals up..


It is possible to tell the year model from the serial number on the reverb. This number includes the week of manufacture, anything after 35 will be 2014.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

raceface_lefty said:


> It is possible to tell the year model from the serial number on the reverb. This number includes the week of manufacture, anything after 35 will be 2014.


thanks. will check on it...


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

There are 52 weeks in a year...


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

raceface_lefty said:


> It is possible to tell the year model from the serial number on the reverb. This number includes the week of manufacture, anything after 35 will be 2014.


my serial number: 34T308*35*080.. does this indicate a 2014 build?

thanks.


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## cubemiester (Dec 21, 2011)

Guys, I'm an utter n00b when it comes to bikes and bought an OEM reverb as they were going cheap! No Bleed kit but risked it as hoped it would be ok out the box but the thing doesnt work at all! 

At present:

1. It is fully extended out the box. The thing is solid and will not depress on pressing the remote lever. The lever doesn't come back up when pressed either.
2. No air in it. Pumped it with a shock pump up to 250psi. No change.
3. When I press the remote, it makes a squiggy noise and oil appears to leak from the top of the post, from what I can make out, its from the other end of the hose.

Does it just need a bleed or do I appear to have a duffer?


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

If it's leaking oil then it needs service beyond a bleed.


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## cubemiester (Dec 21, 2011)

A service right out the box? That doesn't sound right, I'll have another looked but the oil is coming out of the cable, I'll see if it tightens otherwise I'll be returning it as I'm not paying to service something brand new!


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

That's oem for ya.


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## cubemiester (Dec 21, 2011)

Had a bit of a play with it again. It's not leaking anything any more, I'm thinking it has no oil in it as there there was no air loaded either. 

Anyone bought an OEM Reverb and found it dry of anything? I'll probably get a general bleed kit and see how that goes first :-(


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## lloydo (Nov 8, 2010)

got a new bike yesterday with a reverb stealth. try to push the button in to lower post but it won't press in?


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

lloydo said:


> got a new bike yesterday with a reverb stealth. try to push the button in to lower post but it won't press in?


 try adjusting the silver speed knob. If you turn the speed knob in or out and the lever gos in on its own then it will need a bleed


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## lloydo (Nov 8, 2010)

just found the problem. they rammed the cord into the frame and the hose was kinked. i could see the ruffles in the hose where it bolts onto the post.

button works now, but its only returning about half way back. if i pull on it while pressing the button it will come up. but only half way by itself?


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

lloydo said:


> just found the problem. they rammed the cord into the frame and the hose was kinked. i could see the ruffles in the hose where it bolts onto the post.
> 
> button works now, but its only returning about half way back. if i pull on it while pressing the button it will come up. but only half way by itself?


 I suggest bleeding it . Most new reverb owners have found from new it needs bleeding. Mine was the same bled it and no problems for 2 years then it needed a service. Don't know why they need bleeding from new . Could be sitting around and being pushed down for so long in a freezing warehouse


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## lloydo (Nov 8, 2010)

ill tell them that when i take it back for its first service. thanks heaps


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Starting to have problems with mine. It does not need bleeding it works fine. Only problem is I site on the seat and the post is now hard to go down ???? Feels like the post is dry when it does go down not smooth like it was ???


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Right just spoken to TF about my post not going down and it being stiff to push down. I've been told this is becoming a big problem and most post that are sent to them do not need a full service . And it's grit and dirt getting inside the post. Also rock shox are looking at doing a new 2014 service tool kit for us users so we can clean the post . So I'm half way to solveing this good news don't need a service bad news dirt has got inside . So now need to buy C Clip things to do this job .


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

2013megaAM said:


> So now need to buy C Clip things to do this job .


Snap ring pliers?


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

bigkat273 said:


> Snap ring pliers?


Yes that's them . Just brought some . So will post on here after a good clean up .cheers


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Update . Took apart and a lot of grit /dirt around the 3 gold pins was stoping it going down. Fully cleaned and greased now works mint again . Better than paying £80 for a service


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

When I have the seat down and grab the seat and pull up on the seat just to move the bike out my house it pulls up . Is that normal ?? Not notice that until now ??


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

2013megaAM said:


> When I have the seat down and grab the seat and pull up on the seat just to move the bike out my house it pulls up . Is that normal ?? Not notice that until now ??


the reverb manual would state that this could be expected.

however, based on my experience, when this happens the pressure seems to always to be below 200PSI... so this maybe something you may want to check.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

bapski said:


> the reverb manual would state that this could be expected.
> 
> however, based on my experience, when this happens the pressure seems to always to be below 200PSI... so this maybe something you may want to check.


Thank you . It's funny you say that becouse last night while out on a night ride I pull my seatpost up moveing the bike round and that was it I lost all air out the post in one go. I heard it come out . I did a clean service on the post the other day and I don't think I did the air shaft up tight enough hence the lose of all air in one go . Fixed it last night but post still pulls up so that's somthing I need to check again .


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

2013megaAM said:


> Thank you . It's funny you say that becouse last night while out on a night ride I pull my seatpost up moveing the bike round and that was it I lost all air out the post in one go. I heard it come out . I did a clean service on the post the other day and I don't think I did the air shaft up tight enough hence the lose of all air in one go . Fixed it last night but post still pulls up so that's somthing I need to check again .


my original reverb gave up on me last month and i barely to never use the seatpost.

good thing it was still under warranty and was replaced. hope you get better results on yours.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

How much psi does the post loose when you put the pump on ? I pump it up to 250psi leave it a while then pop the pump on to check psi and it shows 230psi is that about right loosing 20 into the pump when I put it on ? Cheers lads


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

2013megaAM said:


> How much psi does the post loose when you put the pump on ? I pump it up to 250psi leave it a while then pop the pump on to check psi and it shows 230psi is that about right loosing 20 into the pump when I put it on ? Cheers lads


i get just about that reading too.. so what i pump it up to 270


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

bapski said:


> i get just about that reading too.. so what i pump it up to 270


 Is that safe to put 270psi in don't want to blow the post ? Maybe when I pump it to 250psi I'm loosening 10psi when removing the pump. So when I put pump back on I loose another 10 adding up 2 loosening the 20 hence the lower reading . I'll try 270psi if it's ok and safe to do so . Cheers


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

im thinking youd be losing around 10-20 psi anyhow by taking the pump out.


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## vikingboy (Nov 5, 2008)

the air thats lost when you disconnect the pump is likely lost from the pump side, or at least thats my understanding when it comes to shocks so cant see why the same wouldnt apply to a seatpost that works on similar principles.
My 1st generation reverb has been spot on, I topped up the air pressure when I fitted it a few years ago, cut the cable, bled it and ridden the hell out of it since. Goes up and down perfectly still but yes does move upwards when I lift the bike by the saddle. 
I woudnt worry about it, just ride it until it stops working.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

2013megaAM said:


> Thank you . It's funny you say that becouse last night while out on a night ride I pull my seatpost up moveing the bike round and that was it I lost all air out the post in one go. I heard it come out . I did a clean service on the post the other day and I don't think I did the air shaft up tight enough hence the lose of all air in one go . Fixed it last night but post still pulls up so that's somthing I need to check again .


Your internal o-rings have gone bad. You need to change them out or you will always lose air when you pump it back up to 250psi.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Laterilus said:


> Your internal o-rings have gone bad. You need to change them out or you will always lose air when you pump it back up to 250psi.


Nope all good spoke to TF they service it a few months back they advices clean it inside so done that but found the problem . Scratch on the inner shaft so this thing is just like a fork leg so when the shaft gos into the post the scratch gos inside the seal and the leaks air . I've now with a very light grade sand paper buffed the scratch out and it seems fine now . How it got a scratch I have no idea mmmmmm could have been the dirt


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

2013megaAM said:


> Nope all good spoke to TF they service it a few months back they advices clean it inside so done that but found the problem . Scratch on the inner shaft so this thing is just like a fork leg so when the shaft gos into the post the scratch gos inside the seal and the leaks air . I've now with a very light grade sand paper buffed the scratch out and it seems fine now . How it got a scratch I have no idea mmmmmm could have been the dirt


Interesting. Makes sense though. I'm hoping for you that it is from dirt, but I am curious, is it just one scratch or many small fine scratches? I would think that you would see many small fine scratches on the main, gold colored, piston shaft if it was dirt. Secondly, I would think it would be difficult for dirt to touch that shaft even if it got by the dust wiper. I would think it would stick to the inside of the seatpost tube that is the same tube that contacts your frame when installing it on the bike. I always see a lot of grease buildup there and that is where I would think the dirt would stick. Also, I'm assuming the scratch is on the gold piston shaft as that is the one you pump up with air. I could see this scratch happening from human error when disassembling it or reassembly. I wouldn't call the reverb hard to work on, but it isn't easy either. I could see myself accidentally scratching the surface of that shaft while working on it. Good to know it can be fixed with sand paper. What grit # did you use? I noticed this part # is expensive and would like to fix it myself in the future if I do scratch mine.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Laterilus said:


> Interesting. Makes sense though. I'm hoping for you that it is from dirt, but I am curious, is it just one scratch or many small fine scratches? I would think that you would see many small fine scratches on the main, gold colored, piston shaft if it was dirt. Secondly, I would think it would be difficult for dirt to touch that shaft even if it got by the dust wiper. I would think it would stick to the inside of the seatpost tube that is the same tube that contacts your frame when installing it on the bike. I always see a lot of grease buildup there and that is where I would think the dirt would stick. Also, I'm assuming the scratch is on the gold piston shaft as that is the one you pump up with air. I could see this scratch happening from human error when disassembling it or reassembly. I wouldn't call the reverb hard to work on, but it isn't easy either. I could see myself accidentally scratching the surface of that shaft while working on it. Good to know it can be fixed with sand paper. What grit # did you use? I noticed this part # is expensive and would like to fix it myself in the future if I do scratch mine.


No I don't think this was dirt . Only one fine scratch must have been from the vice but I did cover the vice with inner tube first . So be carfull on this part of the service /clean . Yes we are talking about the gold shaft . Not sure what grade sandpaper I used but very fine . It's been working just fine now only problem I have is I've over greased the post when putting it back together so it has slowed the post going down only not much but you can feel it . So I need to simply remove the collar top seal part and wipe some away . Other than that I'm pleased with it and just how simple this is to do. You don't have to bleed it aswell so bonus. Just as stated be very very carfull the gold shaft is very soft . TOP TIP when in a vice put the very bottom of the gold shaft in the vice not half way up . This is to be safe becouse I noticed the post when down does not use the full gold shaft . So if you do scratch it at the very bottom it want matter.


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## unbalanced (Jul 26, 2010)

I searched the thread but didn't find the question I was looking to answer. Just installed my Reverb this week. I shortened the hose and bled it watching the online videos. I didn't check the air pressure yet, just assumed it was good to go.

I have two minor issues, the first seems it goes up 90% but sticks at the top and has to be pulled up. Reading here suggests I tightened the seat clamp too much, so that is probably answered. The second question is the forced required to depress the remote button is wickedly hard. How can you adjust that?

Lastly, curious if anyone knows of a good method to mount it when using seperate XT shifters and brakes. Currently its mounted on the left (3x10 gears) but I have to move my hand to get to it as it is in BFE.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

unbalanced said:


> I searched the thread but didn't find the question I was looking to answer. Just installed my Reverb this week. I shortened the hose and bled it watching the online videos. I didn't check the air pressure yet, just assumed it was good to go.
> 
> I have two minor issues, the first seems it goes up 90% but sticks at the top and has to be pulled up. Reading here suggests I tightened the seat clamp too much, so that is probably answered. The second question is the forced required to depress the remote button is wickedly hard. How can you adjust that?
> 
> Lastly, curious if anyone knows of a good method to mount it when using seperate XT shifters and brakes. Currently its mounted on the left (3x10 gears) but I have to move my hand to get to it as it is in BFE.


Mount it on opposite side. I run mine that waybwith xt/xtr brakes


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## dbabuser (Jan 5, 2004)

unbalanced said:


> I searched the thread but didn't find the question I was looking to answer. Just installed my Reverb this week. I shortened the hose and bled it watching the online videos. I didn't check the air pressure yet, just assumed it was good to go.
> 
> I have two minor issues, the first seems it goes up 90% but sticks at the top and has to be pulled up. Reading here suggests I tightened the seat clamp too much, so that is probably answered. The second question is the forced required to depress the remote button is wickedly hard. How can you adjust that?
> 
> Lastly, curious if anyone knows of a good method to mount it when using seperate XT shifters and brakes. Currently its mounted on the left (3x10 gears) but I have to move my hand to get to it as it is in BFE.


Air in the line or lever can account for the remote button pushing hard. I had to bleed mine a few times (b/c I wasn't thorough enough when bleeding to get all the air out) to alleviate that. Good luck!


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## jimithng23 (Feb 11, 2009)

I was having an issue with my Reverb - about 5mm of drop just by pushing down on the seat. The post would then retain this position and not return by pressing the remote. 

Removed the post, checked the air pressure.... Only 50psi in the post. Pumped up to 250psi as spec'd by SRAM. 

Problem solved.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I hated my Reverb when I first got it, turns out that I was using old SRAM videos on how to shorten the hose-they stated that you had to press the hose onto the barbed fitting. I spent a lot of time pissed off about all the air entering the system until I realized that there was a new threaded fitting, I swapped out the old fitting and hose, screwing the fittings together and I've had a great working post since!

I can see why certain people would want a hydraulic actuated lever (Mud), but I don't ride in the mud so I would much prefer the cable.

It's completely rediculous that SRAM can't include any information with either the post or the rebuild kit, they expect you to use the internet, but then they don't update the info. I'm glad I now have a post that's working well, but SRAM still sucks as a corporation.


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## erlau (Apr 4, 2007)

Not sure if this has already been asked but...

Can you limit the extension of the reverb or reverb stealth. My wife's saddle height is a little to low for the reverb at full extension with 100mm travel. The reverb stealth service manual shows a "travel spacer" (https://www.sram.com/sites/default/...00000004211_service_manual_reverb_stealth.pdf).

I was thinking it might be possible to just machine up a longer spacer to reduce the extension. I'd rather not spend a couple hundred bucks to find out if this would work or not; does anyone know if that is possible?


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## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

I read through this whole thread at one point, but I can't remember how this exact issue was dealt with. 

My 13 Reverb has performed admirably since February, but has lately developed a sag of a half inch or so. I checked the air pressure (spot on) and then bled the line, and the sag is still there. A bit of play has also developed in the post. A couple millimeters tops, but it's there. 

Is this a rebuild? Warranty? Thanks.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Mr.Quint said:


> I read through this whole thread at one point, but I can't remember how this exact issue was dealt with.
> 
> My 13 Reverb has performed admirably since February, but has lately developed a sag of a half inch or so. I checked the air pressure (spot on) and then bled the line, and the sag is still there. A bit of play has also developed in the post. A couple millimeters tops, but it's there.
> 
> Is this a rebuild? Warranty? Thanks.


 time for a service . TF do this for £75 check there site .


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## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

It's 9 months old. This feels like a warranty rebuild.


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## lawman1991 (Jun 4, 2010)

Just gone to fit my reverb to my Stanton Slackline, worked fine before and has been sat for a few weeks while I waited for my frame warranty situation to be sorted out. Long story short, I thought the frame was faulty as which ever seat clamp I used wouldn't hold the post tight enough. So sent the frame back, after a hugely drawn out process in which I was sent another frame, which I also considered faulty to then be told by Stanton I was a liar and the frames were fine. They sent the original frame back with a hope qr seatclamp claiming that it worked fine. They checked it with a normal seatpost. Rebuilt the bike ,fitted the post and the hope qr seatclamp was already on the frame. It wasn't tight enough to clamp the post properly so I tightened it a bit more so the post doesn't slip if enough force is applied. It's pretty damn tight. Went to drop the post and it went down with some considerable force and was very slow returning. Now it is locked solid, the lever won't return and I noticed oil leaking out of the hose by the head of the post... Checked online and it seems like overtightened seatclamps can have implications on the performance of the post (meant to be no more than 4nm on the seatclamp) Seems like far too much of a coincidence that it was fine beforehand but because the post is clamped so tightly to stop it sliding and twisting it's now got this issue. Any ideas? Could the overtightened seatclamp have caused this issue?


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Lawman, so if you loosen the clamp now, does the seapost work again? If so, then you may want to do a bleed and then I would imagine you're good to go. You may need some carbon, no-slip paste on the seat post to keep it from slipping in the seat tube once the seat clamp is loosened up a bit. I needed the friction paste with one of my bikes but not another.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## lawman1991 (Jun 4, 2010)

No it is completely seized. I've been sorting out the warranty frame for the last 4-5 weeks, so the post has not been used in this time. It functioned perfectly before this. It leaks oil from the seatpost head and the lever does not return. I've issues with the frame and it not clamping properly, my warranty frame was damaged and yet the company have returned my original frame back, claiming there is nothing wrong with it. My LBS tried the reverb 6-7 weeks ago with several seat clamps and nothing worked. The frame was returned to me with a hope qr seatclamp. At first this wasn't tight enough to secure the post, so I tightened it further. It now holds the post tightly, but the reverb has started leaking and doesn't work. Do you think this could have been caused by the frame and having to clamp the post to tightly?


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

lawman1991 said:


> No it is completely seized. I've been sorting out the warranty frame for the last 4-5 weeks, so the post has not been used in this time. It functioned perfectly before this. It leaks oil from the seatpost head and the lever does not return. I've issues with the frame and it not clamping properly, my warranty frame was damaged and yet the company have returned my original frame back, claiming there is nothing wrong with it. My LBS tried the reverb 6-7 weeks ago with several seat clamps and nothing worked. The frame was returned to me with a hope qr seatclamp. At first this wasn't tight enough to secure the post, so I tightened it further. It now holds the post tightly, but the reverb has started leaking and doesn't work. Do you think this could have been caused by the frame and having to clamp the post to tightly?


Yes over doing it can do this. One old school idea for your seat tube is to get a beer can and cut a strip out and place it inside the seat tube used double sided tap pop in a old seatpost to get the shape . That should help the clamping . I also suggest bleeding your post . TOP TIP do not leave your bike upside down over night and water with sandy crap in will make its way into your post thought the 3 blow off holes at the bottom of the post by the psi 250 air cap . Hope that helps


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## lawman1991 (Jun 4, 2010)

2013megaAM said:


> Yes over doing it can do this. One old school idea for your seat tube is to get a beer can and cut a strip out and place it inside the seat tube used double sided tap pop in a old seatpost to get the shape . That should help the clamping . I also suggest bleeding your post . TOP TIP do not leave your bike upside down over night and water with sandy crap in will make its way into your post thought the 3 blow off holes at the bottom of the post by the psi 250 air cap . Hope that helps


So if the clamp was over tightened and I cycled the post, it could have caused damage to the post? Being as it had been sat for a few weeks I guessed it might be abit slow but it got progressively worse until it seized. It has never been stored upside down and the frame is brand new, I bought it, built it and pushed it to my LBS to have the steerer cut. It has never been ridden off-road. Now I don't think I should have to be bodging a brand new frame, and if it required the clamp to be so tight to hold the post it damages it, then the frame is not fit for purpose? Anyone agree with this?


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

lawman1991 said:


> So if the clamp was over tightened and I cycled the post, it could have caused damage to the post? Being as it had been sat for a few weeks I guessed it might be abit slow but it got progressively worse until it seized. It has never been stored upside down and the frame is brand new, I bought it, built it and pushed it to my LBS to have the steerer cut. It has never been ridden off-road. Now I don't think I should have to be bodging a brand new frame, and if it required the clamp to be so tight to hold the post it damages it, then the frame is not fit for purpose? Anyone agree with this?


 yes over doing it can damage it . Agree you should not have to bodge it . You can get a paist that is used for carbon bars that should stop the slipping and it's not a bodge others do use the paist for the same problem as you in carbon frames . Without seeing the frame it's hard to say if the frame is bad or not so I'll hold off on judgeing that . But would say if you feel strongly that your frame is bad I'd take it to a pro shop tell them your findings and ask them to look at it and back you up with a report of findings . This should give you back up so it's not just your word against them . Best I can say sorry


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## lawman1991 (Jun 4, 2010)

2013megaAM said:


> yes over doing it can damage it . Agree you should not have to bodge it . You can get a paist that is used for carbon bars that should stop the slipping and it's not a bodge others do use the paist for the same problem as you in carbon frames . Without seeing the frame it's hard to say if the frame is bad or not so I'll hold off on judgeing that . But would say if you feel strongly that your frame is bad I'd take it to a pro shop tell them your findings and ask them to look at it and back you up with a report of findings . This should give you back up so it's not just your word against them . Best I can say sorry


Cheers mate, it's as I feared then. The issues with the frame has been going on for two months now, my LBS took a look and said it was faulty so through a long and drawn out process in which the manufacturer of the frame cocked up numerous times, I sent the frame back believing (and being told by my LBS) that it was faulty. I then received an e-mail from the manufacturer claiming they had tried the frames with their standard seatposts and nothing was wrong, claimed I'd wasted their time and given them false information and they were returning the original frame because there was nothing wrong with it... Not best pleased at all and now it seems that in order to get the post clamped so it doesn't slip it's buggered my reverb up as well  Will pop to the LBS on monday and get a diagnosis on the Reverb and emails will be sent to the manufacturer demanding my money back, cos this just isn't on. I've not even ridden the bloody thing, it's been pushed to the LBS and that's it :madman:


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

lawman1991 said:


> Cheers mate, it's as I feared then. The issues with the frame has been going on for two months now, my LBS took a look and said it was faulty so through a long and drawn out process in which the manufacturer of the frame cocked up numerous times, I sent the frame back believing (and being told by my LBS) that it was faulty. I then received an e-mail from the manufacturer claiming they had tried the frames with their standard seatposts and nothing was wrong, claimed I'd wasted their time and given them false information and they were returning the original frame because there was nothing wrong with it... Not best pleased at all and now it seems that in order to get the post clamped so it doesn't slip it's buggered my reverb up as well  Will pop to the LBS on monday and get a diagnosis on the Reverb and emails will be sent to the manufacturer demanding my money back, cos this just isn't on. I've not even ridden the bloody thing, it's been pushed to the LBS and that's it :madman:


 sounds like a nightmare I'd not like to have . Depending how tight you did the seat clamp up depends if you damaged the post . Inside the post a 3 channels called runners these are what keep the post straight from turning side to side . The post it self is thin so if you tightened it up way to much it could have bent the runners inside the post . This would be hard to claim on . As you claimed the frame had a fulty seat post . Blaim falls on you really for over tighting it . This is the same for all us reverb users really . I have put a plastic spacer between my seat clamp this stops me over doing it . Good luck with the frame and hope you get out rideing soon


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## lawman1991 (Jun 4, 2010)

2013megaAM said:


> sounds like a nightmare I'd not like to have . Depending how tight you did the seat clamp up depends if you damaged the post . Inside the post a 3 channels called runners these are what keep the post straight from turning side to side . The post it self is thin so if you tightened it up way to much it could have bent the runners inside the post . This would be hard to claim on . As you claimed the frame had a fulty seat post . Blaim falls on you really for over tighting it . This is the same for all us reverb users really . I have put a plastic spacer between my seat clamp this stops me over doing it . Good luck with the frame and hope you get out rideing soon


Cheers for the help, really appreciate it. The manufacturer sent the frame with a new Hope qr clamp, I'd previously been using a bolted on and did it up to a point the bolt snapped before the post stopped slipping. Because the manufacturer supplied the clamp and said it worked fine, would the blame fall on them? I got the frame out of the box, popped the post in, closed the qr and the post still slipped, so tightened it further until it didn't. Now according to the manufacturer this clamp was tested and worked with a standard post, which obviously doesn't have the potentially fragile reverb internals. I'm not really sure where I stand, as you say yes I could have over-tightened it, but I was told the clamp and frame were fine to use. At this point I just want a working reverb and my money back, as you say it's been an absolute nightmare


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## Zaf (Mar 1, 2012)

I finally splashed out on one for my Fuel EX. Got the 125mm drop with the right hand lever, plan to run it on the left side under the bar. The bike doesn't have stealth routing, but since I've made the drivetrain 1x10, I have space for internal routing through the top tube. Was thinking of routing the cable through there to keep things clean, guess I'll see if it actually fits once it arrives.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

lawman1991 said:


> Cheers for the help, really appreciate it. The manufacturer sent the frame with a new Hope qr clamp, I'd previously been using a bolted on and did it up to a point the bolt snapped before the post stopped slipping. Because the manufacturer supplied the clamp and said it worked fine, would the blame fall on them? I got the frame out of the box, popped the post in, closed the qr and the post still slipped, so tightened it further until it didn't. Now according to the manufacturer this clamp was tested and worked with a standard post, which obviously doesn't have the potentially fragile reverb internals. I'm not really sure where I stand, as you say yes I could have over-tightened it, but I was told the clamp and frame were fine to use. At this point I just want a working reverb and my money back, as you say it's been an absolute nightmare


 arrrr hope seatclamp I'm guessing you did not tighten it up to much becouse hope seatclamps are know for snapping including the one I had and I've seen a few broken out on the trails . So fingers crossed you shouldn't of dameged the post as mu hope QR broke with the reverb in. I'd suggest getting that grip paist and use a standard QR as I do now . As for the post I suggest a bleed and check psi is at 250 psi . Don't see any reason that buying grip paist and a standard qr clamp shouldn't work . Just get your post checked out . They are great things but also very simple . Hope that helps .


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

After a season of hard riding the seals on my Reverb went and the post just sank and stopped working. I pumped her back up and it wouldn't hold air so I went to the local shop and had them send it back. I was bummed thinking I'd have to pay for a pricey repair, but good old SRAM sent me a brand new seat post and only charged me $40 for a seal kit. 

Sweet, thanks SRAM.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

^ That's awesome service. Although I'm quite bummed by my SRAM CS experience thus far. Last season they first only set out a full rebuild kit to my LBS and LBS wanted $150+ for a rebuild. Took it back to REI where I purchased and SRAM rebuilt it, not replaced it. My problem was and still is it sinks into the first few millimeters of travel on top. I'm at 250 psi, no leaks, and it's still the same problem as last year even though this season I'm 50+ lbs lighter (thinking my previous weight was causing early fail issues).This season post has seen limited riding since their rebuild last winter and problem has arose mid season for me. Thankfully it's slammed down 80% of the time now due to the trails I ride, but once I break down the bike for winter maintenance back to REI it goes and this time I'm going to push for a replacement by SRAM or I'll return it at REI and pick up a new one elsewhere.


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

eurospek said:


> ^ That's awesome service. Although I'm quite bummed by my SRAM CS experience thus far. Last season they first only set out a full rebuild kit to my LBS and LBS wanted $150+ for a rebuild. Took it back to REI where I purchased and SRAM rebuilt it, not replaced it. My problem was and still is it sinks into the first few millimeters of travel on top. I'm at 250 psi, no leaks, and it's still the same problem as last year even though this season I'm 50+ lbs lighter (thinking my previous weight was causing early fail issues).This season post has seen limited riding since their rebuild last winter and problem has arose mid season for me. Thankfully it's slammed down 80% of the time now due to the trails I ride, but once I break down the bike for winter maintenance back to REI it goes and this time I'm going to push for a replacement by SRAM or I'll return it at REI and pick up a new one elsewhere.


That's odd. I took my Reverb to REI too and it was the tech who told SRAM I was the original owner and that got me the replacement. I expected to pay for repair.

Mine started to sink right before the seals blew but if yours is holding air maybe try pushing a bit more fluid in via the button?

I've had good experience with SRAM's warranty. They replaced a couple shifters for me after they failed prematurely. The shitty thing about the SRAM warranty is that you can't deal with them directly, you have to go through a shop. Its a pain, I wish I could just deal with them directly but oh well.


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## qduffy (Nov 30, 2013)

I'm a reverb virgin and...it broke. Probably user error as I was setting it up at the time, not riding. 

The post was slow to return (on a relatively new used bike) so I checked the air pressure. Down at about 150. Extended it the whole way (sticks halfway), pumped it to 250 and...it started to go back down. I saw someone having a similar problem on page 48 of this thread, but I didn't see an answer.

So I let the air out again, extended the seat, started pumping, and as soon as it hits about 150psi again, the seat retracts. It's like its operating in complete reverse and the pump is creating a vacuum and sucking down the seat!

I think it definitely needs a bleed - there's very little pressure at the switch. But has anyone else had this problem? Is this a rebuild issue? Warranty issue? Something that someone who's mechanically adept could fix? Something inside gone poop?

Also, because the bike (2013 BC Element) was bought second hand, is there any issue with warranty potentially?

Any help appreciated!

Quinn


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Having ridden with both, I far prefer the Fox DOSS. The pre-set heights are perfect. Full height, slight drop for trail/flowing, full drop for descent. The Reverb accomplishes the same thing, but would take practice/patience to achieve the same results, and might be hard to get a 100% duplication of results. I just felt like the DOSS was simpler and more precise.

However, the control lever is bulky and cumbersome unless you are running a 1x drivetrain. I started with 2x10 and it just doesn't work with all that crap on your bars, too much going on and the dropper lever is hard to reach unless it's where your front shifter would be.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Does the lever button suck in when you push it ?


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

2013megaAM said:


> Does the lever button suck in when you push it ?


It feels just like shifting. It's cable actuated while the reverb is hydraulic.


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## rupps5 (Apr 9, 2010)

I am stumped!

Bought a new reverb, cut the house to length, bled it per the sram video and pdf instructions. The post worked great for about an hour's worth of the ride. Came home bleed it again and lasted for about an hour into the next ride. Came home bled it again with same results. The pressure is set and holding.

Anyone got any ideas?


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

rupps5 said:


> I am stumped!
> 
> Bought a new reverb, cut the house to length, bled it per the sram video and pdf instructions. The post worked great for about an hour's worth of the ride. Came home bleed it again and lasted for about an hour into the next ride. Came home bled it again with same results. The pressure is set and holding.
> 
> Anyone got any ideas?


What is it doing/or not doing?


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## rupps5 (Apr 9, 2010)

After a bleed the post is nice and fast. As the ride goes on it gets slower and slower the just stops working altogether. Then I bleed it and is nice and fast again. Then when I take it for a ride it starts slowing down again.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

rupps5 said:


> After a bleed the post is nice and fast. As the ride goes on it gets slower and slower the just stops working altogether. Then I bleed it and is nice and fast again. Then when I take it for a ride it starts slowing down again.


You are getting air into the system somewhere.

For me I had to replace the line, and I replaced the parts that the line connectors as well.

Hopefully that is all you need to do.

Just know that the connectors are now all screw on and not push on, my post was getting air because I followed the ****#y directions online that said to push the line onto the connector. . .


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## qduffy (Nov 30, 2013)

qduffy said:


> I'm a reverb virgin and...it broke. Probably user error as I was setting it up at the time, not riding.
> 
> The post was slow to return (on a relatively new used bike) so I checked the air pressure. Down at about 150. Extended it the whole way (sticks halfway), pumped it to 250 and...it started to go back down. I saw someone having a similar problem on page 48 of this thread, but I didn't see an answer.
> 
> ...


Just an FYI on this particular issue;

I managed to get the post working again basically by starting from scratch.

If there isn't enough pressure in the hydraulic switch, pumping up the chamber will cause the post to contract instead of extend. So I depressurized my post completely, bled it at the switch and at the saddle (making sure each side was elevated appropriately), cleared out way more bubbles then I was expecting, and then pumped it back up. Works!

I still have about an inch of compression - maybe I'm still not at a high enough pressure - but the seat post returns relatively smoothly and seems to be working fine thus far.

Many thanks to Kevin at Simon's bike shop in Vancouver for his assistance and extra rubber tubing!

Quinn


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## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

It shouldn't be sinking at all. Something's wrong.


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

Oil won't compress but air will. Ya still got some air in there.


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## qduffy (Nov 30, 2013)

Yeah, could be. I tried playing with one on a bike at MEC this evening and it's rock solid. I tried mine again and it does make a bit of a squishy noise. Either way, I'm hoping it doesn't require a rebuild or something. I'll run it through a few bleed cycles just to see if that helps.


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## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

The included bleed kit isn't so great. Maybe have your shop take a look?


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

Mr.Quint said:


> The included bleed kit isn't so great. Maybe have your shop take a look?


^this. I had to bleed mine 3 times in a row before I got it right. Big pita.


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## qduffy (Nov 30, 2013)

bigkat273 said:


> ^this. I had to bleed mine 3 times in a row before I got it right. Big pita.


I'm finding that's the case. Seems challlenging to get all the air out. Kinda have to work it repeatedly from both ends to get it clear.

It's getting better, but I have to make sure I'm not getting any more air in from the lines or fittings.


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## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

My reverb (sinking at top position) is getting replaced under warranty. Should have it back soon.


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## qduffy (Nov 30, 2013)

Maybe I'll follow up on that too. I literally have 2mm of vertical play in the seatpost. It's not rock solid, but it's certainly functional.


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## guitarb (Jun 4, 2012)

Hi all. Recently my reverb has been slowing down a little, and I know that usually a quick bleed from the remote end can fix that. 

However, whenever I push down on the post from the top position, it sinks maybe .5 cm. I have heard that a severe sinking reverb can be caused by a leaky air seal, but is that the case with mine, or does it just need a new bleed? If it is the air seal, is the post completely toast? I bought it second hand so no warranty. 

Thanks.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

guitarb said:


> Hi all. Recently my reverb has been slowing down a little, and I know that usually a quick bleed from the remote end can fix that.
> 
> However, whenever I push down on the post from the top position, it sinks maybe .5 cm. I have heard that a severe sinking reverb can be caused by a leaky air seal, but is that the case with mine, or does it just need a new bleed? If it is the air seal, is the post completely toast? I bought it second hand so no warranty.
> 
> Thanks.


 no harm trying a bleed and checking the air is at 250psi . But does sound like it needs a service .most likely why the other user sold it to you . TF tuned do this for around £80 with upgraded parts


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

Was considering the Reverb since I'm looking for a dropper.

With so many reliability issues, is the Reverb worth the gamble?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Had a Reverb,now have Lev Integra,shop talked me into it and glad I did,issues abound with Reverb,hopefully they work it out,but to many failures in my area alone.the Lev is a damn fine seat dropper,even works better in cold then Reverb.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

I'd not ride anything other than a Reverb. You see far, far more people riding and using reverbs than any other brand. For that reason alone you will hear of more issues with them.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> Was considering the Reverb since I'm looking for a dropper.
> 
> With so many reliability issues, is the Reverb worth the gamble?


I'd say yes many problems you hear of are guys that have brought 2nd hand or users that simply not got a clue . I know many riders who don't know how to set gears never mind bleeding a seatpost. My first one worked sweet for a year then needed a service and it's been running sweet since then . I do a basic service more so in winter time once a month seems a lot of dirt can get in the post from the bike being upside down over night . All these little things you can do really do help and along side some common sence no problems .


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## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> Was considering the Reverb since I'm looking for a dropper.
> 
> With so many reliability issues, is the Reverb worth the gamble?


They all break. Your best alternative is the Lev and you can see threads right now talking about the problems with them. That's where the tech is at.

Get a warranty, do your maintenance, and hope you get a good one.


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## borbntm (May 4, 2011)

I have taken the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" approach with my Reverb which is a 2011 model. 

I haven't done anything to it! 

It occasionally slowly comes back up from being retracted in storage, has some minor up and down play due to air in the line but.....it still works great overall. I am not even sure what PSI it's at.....As long as it's working, I'm ok with it! 

It almost seems as though some people get in trouble with these dropper posts by messing with them to much......It's not perfect but it works, I'm leaving it alone until it fails.


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## Froglogic (May 5, 2008)

My reverb stealth that I have had since August, about 50 hours on it, has started to slip about a half inch when fully extended. It goes up and down no problem, everything works great except this new problem. It does not continue to slip, only the first half inch and then stops and can ride it that way fine. Have searched this string for an hour for a fix. Do I just need to bleed it? Anyone had this issue? Thanks in advance.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Mine does the same . It's time for a service when it does that . Tho some users have got lucky with just a bleed . It's the main seal head that's on its way out it's let air get mixed with oil makeing a air pocket hence the few mm drop when you sit on it . Pain in the arss


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## Froglogic (May 5, 2008)

So I took it in to lbs and they said they have to send it to rockshox for them to diagnose the problem, can't fix it there. Oh BTW - this is about the 10th one they have sent in in the past few months. Very disappointing, 500$ piece of equipment that lasts only 4 months before it has to be sent in??? Hopefully they warranty it and not charge me, I am not holding my breath.


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## project_d (Jun 1, 2007)

Froglogic said:


> My reverb stealth that I have had since August, about 50 hours on it, has started to slip about a half inch when fully extended. It goes up and down no problem, everything works great except this new problem. It does not continue to slip, only the first half inch and then stops and can ride it that way fine. Have searched this string for an hour for a fix. Do I just need to bleed it? Anyone had this issue? Thanks in advance.


Have you checked the air pressure in it? Be sure it's at 200psi.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Froglogic said:


> So I took it in to lbs and they said they have to send it to rockshox for them to diagnose the problem, can't fix it there. Oh BTW - this is about the 10th one they have sent in in the past few months. Very disappointing, 500$ piece of equipment that lasts only 4 months before it has to be sent in??? Hopefully they warranty it and not charge me, I am not holding my breath.


1. you paid $500?
2. SRAM stands behind their stuff as well as anyone in the industry.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

No 250psi not 200


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## ndrsroark (Sep 21, 2013)

Well my reverb has blown out for the third time since august and im now thinking something may be defective this time i was just finishing my ride out on the street sitting and with a hiss and drop no more worky when this thing works its awesome but now im starting to get a complex maybe im getting heavy 200lbs since purchasing i have spent more time rebuilding and changing seals than using so i have now ordered another rebuild kit and oil i have it down to about an hour ....Does anyone think its because i store the bike hanging upside down and oil is settling where air should be i dont know what to think anymore.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

ndrsroark said:


> Well my reverb has blown out for the third time since august and im now thinking something may be defective this time i was just finishing my ride out on the street sitting and with a hiss and drop no more worky when this thing works its awesome but now im starting to get a complex maybe im getting heavy 200lbs since purchasing i have spent more time rebuilding and changing seals than using so i have now ordered another rebuild kit and oil i have it down to about an hour ....Does anyone think its because i store the bike hanging upside down and oil is settling where air should be i dont know what to think anymore.


 200LBS is ok I was 200 last year post laster 1 year no problem . Storing upside down is not good for the post mainly becouse and I was told this by TF tuned . All the grit **** from rides/water washing will fun down into the post via the 3 blow off holes in the bottom of the post then the crap gets in the 3 gold bushing pins and post will start to get stuck. That's the most common reason riders send post off for service but infact all it needs is a clean . As for loosing air like you have . I've had this before post went sissssssssss got home took apart could find nothing wrong only thing I pinched up was the black psi cap that screws on the gold shaft . Then it was fine . Hope that helps


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## ndrsroark (Sep 21, 2013)

2013megaAM said:


> 200LBS is ok I was 200 last year post laster 1 year no problem . Storing upside down is not good for the post mainly becouse and I was told this by TF tuned . All the grit **** from rides/water washing will fun down into the post via the 3 blow off holes in the bottom of the post then the crap gets in the 3 gold bushing pins and post will start to get stuck. That's the most common reason riders send post off for service but infact all it needs is a clean . As for loosing air like you have . I've had this before post went sissssssssss got home took apart could find nothing wrong only thing I pinched up was the black psi cap that screws on the gold shaft . Then it was fine . Hope that helps


Thanks for the info on upside down thing as for the seal i keep blowing the same one its at the bottom were the end cap screws onto the inner shaft all looks fine even under magnifing glass of both seal surfaces and torqued to spec everytime it does the same thing im begining to think may be a manufacturing defect i may mic. it this time and see but thanks for the advice i will start hanging it up wheels down


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

For all of you having difficulties with the post sagging a little bit and hearing a 'hissing' noise when the post goes bad, it is always going to be the same inner seals just about every time. It comes with the territory of hydraulic posts. It isn't super hard to service this post. For those of you that don't like dealing with the hassle of taking the post into the shop and having them send it to SRAM, you can fix it yourself and do it very cheaply. Also, I wouldn't bother with buying the 'super' rebuild kit other than 1 time. The majority of the stuff that comes in the large rebuild kit is worthless. It is a bunch of parts that will never go bad. Too bad the large rebuild kit doesn't come with a new top cap since that bushing will eventually go bad. The basic rebuild kit has all the o-rings that go bad the most and the charger bushing (the bushing you can easily replace).

I'm surprised at one of the posts here that said their bike shop couldn't service the post. That's pretty weak considering SRAM released the videos showing you how to service the internals on this post last year:












 - most important video





I have a 2 year old Reverb that I have probably serviced 6-7 times now. I weigh 240lbs geared up. This post has no problem holding up my weight. The o-rings are just going to go bad eventually, but they are easy to replace and very inexpensive. The basic service kit is only $8. If you don't want to buy that and go even cheaper, you can get all of the o-rings online. I use theoringstore.com, however, you eventually need to buy the basic service kit to get that charger bushing as that will eventually wear out.

Lastly, some folks talk about using 'upgraded' brass keys in their posts from TFT tuned. I'm sure they do a great job with their service, but wow, it is expensive! My guess is that they are just taking out some of the excess slop by using one of the larger diameter pins that are included in the large rebuild kit (another reason to eventually buy this just one time). For example, I have the 380mm, 30.9 post with 125mm extension. It uses the #3 brass key. That key is 2.65mm in diameter. The #4 is 2.67mm in diamter and the #5 is 2.70mm. Have too much side to side play? Just install one of the larger diameter keys. Done and done.

Oh, and if you want to get your own o-rings, I made a picture that I use so I know what to order (I measured all of these o-rings at one time or another). The ones in red are the most important and go out the quickest. The ones in blue I replace maybe once a year. If I didn't mark an o-ring that you see, it really isn't all that important. Just eventually replace it when it looks grungy.



Oh, and one more thing, make sure to put some blue locktite on the inner sealhead threads when reinstalling it or else it will come unscrewed. The o-ring will bulge out (as in the picture) and you will have the typical sagging/hissing issue.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

^ I'd rep you again, but I can't. Great post!


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## Froglogic (May 5, 2008)

Great post, thanks Laterilus. I will do a seal replacement. Just got it back from the shop and they bled it, and pumped it to 250 psi, said it was fixed but it isn't.......same problem.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Glad to help. 

Did your shop actually bleed the post or just the remote system? Bleeding the remote system will only fix the speed at which the post moves up and down. The remote is just hydraulically opening a valve. If you get air in the remote system, the button compresses the air instead of fully opening the valve, hence the oil travels through a smaller orifice and the posts raises and lowers at a slower rate. 

If your shop actually bled the post (as the videos show), my guess is that they did not change out the o-rings. Once the o-rings start to hiss, that's it. They are bad and need to be changed. To be honest, every time I've taken off a bad o-ring from the internals I can't see where it has gone bad, but I know for sure that putting it back in will not work. 

You can check your internal o-rings to see if they are holding air or not. Remove the lower seal cap and outer seat tube housing. Next, reinstall the lower seal cap without the outer seat tube. Pump it up to 250psi. If you then jiggle around the piston shaft and hear air hissing out, the o-rings are bad. Done and done.


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## Froglogic (May 5, 2008)

I don't know how they bled the system. Unfortunately the shop is not all that helpful as the mechanic called and said he fixed it and when I went to pick it up it was doing the exact same thing. I have had problems with this shop before and it is the largest in Nor Cal and a big SPecialized, SRAM, RochShox dealer so they are pretty arrogant. I worked in a bike shop for 3 years and you should hear some of the stuff that comes out of the shop there. I pointed it out and he said that these posts "just do that". I tried to tell him otherwise and he said the only other thing he could do was pull it off and send it in to Rock Shox, they don't do the seal replacements, which will be the next step if I can't get it working after doing what you recommend above.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Froglogic, I'm sorry to hear about your experiences with your shop. I shouldn't speculate, but what the hell? I like to judge. I'm assuming the mechanics are intimidated by this semi-complex piece of machinery so they refuse to do service to it because they don't know what they are doing and hence, come up with lame excuses as to why they won't. The comment "These posts just do that" would have infuriated me. Seriously? No.... no they don't. They only sag when the seals fail. I'm pretty much positive the only thing they did was a remote system bleed and possibly don't know that you can bleed the internal portion of the post and change the seals.

I'm almost certain that the o-rings I've marked in the picture in red have failed (one or more) in your post. Other than that, your post is fine. It is a few small o-rings. The internal bleed at times can be somewhat a pita, but it isn't always necessary. I just noticed you have the stealth version. I'm looking at the exploded diagram in the 2014 RS catalog and the rebuild procedure from RS website for the stealth. Its a little different from the standard so some of my techniques may not work for the stealth. I'm hoping to pick up a stealth soon and I'll pop it open whenever I get around to getting one, but it will probably be a few months. 

It looks like you can still possibly do the trick I mentioned with the internal air piston shaft. Remove the bottom silver cap, then the poppet valve, then the bottom seal head and then the lower post just like the instructions say, then re-install the lower seal head, poppet valve and silver cap. Pump it up, jiggle the air piston (or you could dunk it in water and look for bubbles) to check for leaks. Almost dead positive it is going to leak. If it leaks, you need to remove the internal seal head (release the air pressure, remove the silver cap, poppet valve, bottom seal head first). Change out the o-rings on the internal seal head (especially the ones marked in red on my picture). I should note here that you need to do your best not to spill any oil!!! There is a very good chance you do not need to do an internal post bleed. Be careful when removing the internal seal head. If there is a lot of air trapped where it shouldn't be, that thing will pop off. Not super hard, but hard enough to where you could accidentally spill the internal oil. Also, take note of how easy/hard it is to unscrew the internal seal head. If it is easy, then it was already starting to unscrew itself and there is a good chance that is your leak.

So, follow the instructions to change the internal seal head's o-rings, put some blue locktite on the threads of the internal sealhead and reassemble. You will more than likely need to perform a quick remote system bleed since you have the stealth version and are 'breaking' that line to service the post. If you are still getting about a 1/2" of sag, then you are missing some oil internally and need to do a bleed. The RS guide on SRAM's site shows how to do the bleed to the stealth version. Honestly, it looks easier than the normal version. Just have to find a fork fluid level gauge tool. I think Amazon has them for like $15. Sometimes to be quicker, I just do a ghetto bleed. I'll pour some 2.5wt oil into the IFP tube but won't let it overflow into the telescoping tube. I'll just bring the oil up to a level where the air piston shaft engages the inside of the IFP tube enough to where you can still push down and reinstall the inner seal head.... if that made any sense. I usually get enough air in there for my post to still sag about 1mm. Pretty much nothing. I can see it if I stand next to my post and push down, but I don't feel it when I sit in the saddle as my saddle has a few mm of flex to it anyway.


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## dorse (Sep 22, 2009)

use the slow setting


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## dorse (Sep 22, 2009)

I have three reverbs. All have been rebuilt. Two are not working. I now run the LEV and it's in need of parts. That are not available. I will say I got three years out of my first reverb with a bleed about every 6 months. The Lev was the hot ticket Until I tried to replace the cable. The plastic furrel at the seat was deteriorated and I have called KS 3 times with no luck. They promise they will send parts but never do. 

Why can't manufactures make a dropper post that works. I have tried them all sheesh

Kind Shock has sent the parts I needed and a few spares Thank you KS


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## Froglogic (May 5, 2008)

Ok, a buddy helped me and we got this done, bled system, replaced seals and tightened cap and pumped back up........thanks again for the directions, it helped. Question: there is still just about 1-2mm drop or movement..........very minor but it is still there. My buddy says when he did his it now does the same thing.......is this correct? Before the sagging problem there was no drop at all, should I now expect 1-2 mm drop?


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Great, glad to hear it worked out for you. As for the 1-2mm drop, yes, that is normal. I highly doubt SRAM uses the same tools they sell to consumers to bleed the posts initially. They work, but are finicky. You really have to take the utmost care when installing the IFP and the piston tube to prevent capturing a small bubble or two. That is the only really difficult part of the procedure. To be honest, I stopped caring about that and just go with the 1-2mm of sag. I don't even notice it. Like I mentioned in a previous post, my saddle already has some flex to it when I sit down so 1-2mm doesn't feel like anything extra. As long as it is only 1-2mm, you know your o-rings are still good. Once the sag happens again, time to Change out the o-rings. 

I typically ride the Reverb to fail instead of changing o-rings on an interval basis. Reason being is that extra silver collar that is included with the Reverb. I always take with me on my rides. If my Reverb fails, I at least know that I can extend my post to its highest point, then I install the silver collar on the bottom of the telescoping part. It will prevent the post from dropping and you'll just have a normal seatpost for the remainder of your ride.


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## Andrew8404 (Nov 20, 2011)

I've had my reverb for two years and no issues. That's with about 3000 miles of use. During that time I've rebleed 4 times and changed out the cable due to wear. I can't complain!

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


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## JuliusHettig (Sep 1, 2008)

I'm thinking of reducing my Reverb's travel by maybe 0.5-1.0 inch to reduce stress on the bushings. I'm going to be doing a complete servicing tomorrow and I had an idea to shorten the full extension height by reducing the amount of oil in the system. By pushing the shaft piston further in during rebuild then what Rockshox specifies, just before setting my IFP height, the post will not be able to extend all the way. I do realize, however, that this will increase the air spring volume, so I hope it does not slow down the seat extension speed much.

I'm not a big fan of the travel limiting collar. I don't think it's the best solution...


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## erlau (Apr 4, 2007)

JuliusHettig said:


> I'm thinking of reducing my Reverb's travel by maybe 0.5-1.0 inch to reduce stress on the bushings. I'm going to be doing a complete servicing tomorrow and I had an idea to shorten the full extension height by reducing the amount of oil in the system. By pushing the shaft piston further in during rebuild then what Rockshox specifies, just before setting my IFP height, the post will not be able to extend all the way. I do realize, however, that this will increase the air spring volume, so I hope it does not slow down the seat extension speed much.
> 
> I'm not a big fan of the travel limiting collar. I don't think it's the best solution...


Please let us know how this goes. I would like to limit the travel on a reverb as well and haven't found any info on how to do it.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

JuliusHettig said:


> I'm thinking of reducing my Reverb's travel by maybe 0.5-1.0 inch to reduce stress on the bushings. I'm going to be doing a complete servicing tomorrow and I had an idea to shorten the full extension height by reducing the amount of oil in the system. By pushing the shaft piston further in during rebuild then what Rockshox specifies, just before setting my IFP height, the post will not be able to extend all the way. I do realize, however, that this will increase the air spring volume, so I hope it does not slow down the seat extension speed much.
> 
> I'm not a big fan of the travel limiting collar. I don't think it's the best solution...


I see what you are saying, and I think you are on the right path here. I think though you need to add a step. I'm thinking you would need to push the IFP all the way down. That way you completely remove that extra volume that would fill up with oil during a post bleed. After that, then what you are saying makes sense. Fill up the IFP tube to a specified height, then install the piston shaft. Sounds like a good plan.

On the flip side of things, the bushings last quite awhile in my opinion. Like I mentioned before, I weigh 240 geared up. I rode my Reverb on my Stumpy Evo for 1.5 years and that has a slack seat tube angle (putting more stress on the bushings). I only changed the charger bushing once a year and I still haven't changed my top cap yet to service the other bushing.


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## JuliusHettig (Sep 1, 2008)

I did my rebuild today and came to the same conclusion, that I would have to push the IFP all the way down. I didn't end up doing it though. I'm worried that the IFP might get rammed in to the top of the post and do damage, so I played it safe and didn't change anything... Alright, I swapped the external seal collar to a black one 

I've had my Reverb since they first hit the market, so mine did develop play and I replaced the bushings with new ones. I guess they are pretty durable, but putting some extra distance between them would make them last even longer. I never drop my saddle down all the way anyway.

I'm starting to think that the only way to limit the extension internally would be by placing a spacer between the piston and the internal seal head. It would also need channels cut into it to facilitate airflow... I don't think it's worth the effort


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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

Hi. If you move your saddle by hand back and front is there any minimum play or flex on the upper part of the post?


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## JuliusHettig (Sep 1, 2008)

With new bushings and keys, the Reverb only has a tiny amount or play. It's not noticeable when riding though and it actually feels life a regular post.


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

Edit: Nevermind it's a hose guide.

"The Reverb comes with a zip tie and a small round hook/loop. What is that loop used for?"


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> Edit: Nevermind it's a hose guide.
> 
> "The Reverb comes with a zip tie and a small round hook/loop. What is that loop used for?"


It's a cable guide . It goes round your seat tube so when your post gos down the cable don't stick out


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

If your Reverb is slipping, you need new seals. The seal kit is cheap and you can do it yourself pretty easily.


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## bugi (Nov 14, 2011)

Hi guys! Just received my reverb, I install it,and to my surprise the remote doesn't work. I tried to push it it doesn't move ,seems to be stuck. Anybody has any idea what the problem could be or how to solve it? Is there any trick?
Thanks !


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

bugi said:


> Hi guys! Just received my reverb, I install it,and to my surprise the remote doesn't work. I tried to push it it doesn't move ,seems to be stuck. Anybody has any idea what the problem could be or how to solve it? Is there any trick?
> Thanks !


Derp-a-derp!


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## knockbox (Nov 20, 2011)

Bugi, sounds like you need to bleed it again. Had the same problem with mine but turns out I let too much oil out as I was putting the grub screws back in which meant there wasn't enough fluid in the hose to activate the main valve.


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## knockbox (Nov 20, 2011)

knockbox said:


> Bugi, sounds like you need to bleed it again. Had the same problem with mine but turns out I let too much oil out as I was putting the grub screws back in which meant there wasn't enough fluid in the hose to activate the main valve.


Sorry, just re-read your post and totally different problem!  I was referring to my post not working when I pushed the remote.


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## skyward112 (Feb 7, 2014)

What is the best way to store the Reverb when you are NOT riding or TRANSPORTING it? Should it be fully extended or fully dropped? Can't seem to find a good answer....Thanks!!!


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## Ufdah (Sep 9, 2012)

Extended for me. In the dropped position there is extra pressure on the air spring because it is being compressed. It might be OK in the dropped position but that's not how I roll.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

skyward112 said:


> What is the best way to store the Reverb when you are NOT riding or TRANSPORTING it? Should it be fully extended or fully dropped? Can't seem to find a good answer....Thanks!!!


I've had mine stored with the bike upside down and the post fully extended (upside down is the only way i can fit the number of bikes in my small storage area). I got 2 years our of my post before servicing, and only serviced it due to a very small amount of fore-aft play at full extension (i.e. only noticeable while off the bike and not while riding).

YMMV


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## bobnorris1 (Oct 19, 2013)

*Reverb Hose*

Just picked up one of these bad boys at a shweet deal from a buddy. Having a few issues with house routing on mt 11 specialized epic comp. The seatpost clap has a nice slot in it to hold the hose and let it slide up and down with the post however there are no mounting spots on the bottom side of the top tube  . I hate using zip ties but have been checking out jagwire adhesive clips. Anyone ever use these or have another solution?


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## 661lee (Apr 11, 2007)

I used adhesive clips, and they worked great.


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

661lee said:


> I used adhesive clips, and they worked great.


Ditto. No issues so far and cheap enough to replace when and if the adhesive fails. Jagwire and problem solvers both make them. I went Jagwire because of the alloy base you can bend to match the curvature of the tubes.


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## Chicote (Oct 4, 2005)

For those who have a slight drop with functioning post. Double check the air pressure. That was my issue.

Also, I had mine for about two years of good usable awesomeness until a crash separated the line from the remote and the post would spin from side to side at the top of the post near the seat rail. Brought it in to LBS and they called SRAM and a new one came in later that week. Talk about support! Sometimes it just takes a good LBS to take care of you.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Isildur said:


> I've had mine stored with the bike upside down and the post fully extended (upside down is the only way i can fit the number of bikes in my small storage area). I got 2 years our of my post before servicing, and only serviced it due to a very small amount of fore-aft play at full extension (i.e. only noticeable while off the bike and not while riding).
> 
> YMMV


I originally used the Jagwire mounts with the aluminum base, but I didn't like the clip on thing. They eventually went bad on me and fell off. I prefer the problem solvers stick on clips. Also, I no longer use a zip tie to hold them in the clip. They snap in just fine and stay. Also, it allows the hose to slide inside the clip as the hose moves with the operation of the saddle.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Purchased a 2012 Reverb from REI in March 2012 for $330. Fast forward to March 2013, I had REI send the Reverb back to SRAM for warranty repair because the post was slipping quite a bit at full extension, even after a full bleed. (And this was after a failed attempt by my LBS to send it off for service/repair, SRAM only sent them a full rebuild kit and LBS wanted $150 for service) Supposedly SRAM fixed something as the post didn't slip for the beginning of last season but it started acting up again at the end of the riding season. Coming up on my 2 year warranty on Reverb next month I stopped by REI today to have them send it again to SRAM for warranty replacement this time around. Especially after reading in this thread people are getting their posts replaced left and right, basically being a cake walk. Well the so-called mechanic at REI called SRAM and told them my issue: that the post sags a bit at full extension and it has seen only 15 hours or so of riding since SRAM has last "serviced" it in March 2013. 

So I get a call tonight and its the mechanic stating that SRAM is refusing to check out my Reverb and states that the sag is normal and that the post simply needs a full service maintenance/rebuild after 50 hours of riding. Which I'm just about 35 hours shy of since they last touched it. WTF. BTW I live in Chicago and this REI was maybe 30 minutes away from SRAM. A full service by my LBS as mentioned is $150. I'm not looking to pay this much on a post that is starting year three of service, and one that has been "rebuilt" by SRAM last winter. And especially not after I quite over paid for it at REI. But I knew why I bought this post at REI to begin with, I overpaid because of the added protection of their return policy, which until June of last year was golden, 100% satisfaction guaranteed. Now it's only 1 year but after speaking with the manager, turns out purchases made before June 2013 still fell under the old return policy. 

Stopped by the house for the original box and clamp hardware, and I simply requested a refund on this purchase. So here I am tonight, dropper-less and $330 richer. 

As much as I loved my Reverb when it worked, SRAM's CS has left me feeling pretty sour. Do I purchase another Reverb after being treated so poorly at 2 different places to handle a warranty claim or simply start looking at the competition and go with a cable-actuated dropper?

I'll call SRAM tomorrow to discuss their CS ways and how can they magically diagnose posts over the phone with active warranties, but realistically I'm thinking I'll be back with another Reverb soon, maybe used this time around and save myself some $$$ since a brand new Reverb $$$ with a 2-year warranty basically means nothing to me as I've found out these past 2 years. I already own a full rebuild kit so might as well warranty it myself in the future.

And as much as people love to hate on Fox, their CS is awesome. My Fox 34 Float CSU has started creaking again (onto CSU #3 lol), a quick phone call to Fox and I was given an RA number. Quick trip to FedEX and my fork was on its way to Fox. Tracking the RA number shows the fork is on the way back to me tomorrow after spending a day at Fox's service center. Quick and easy. No run around given and I especially love the fact of leaving the middle man out of the equation.


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## someoldfart (Mar 14, 2013)

Something wrong there Eurospek. I had mine rebuilt, full seal kit and bushings too, by a local Whistler suspension tuner that specializes in Rock Shox. $75.00. 

I think a lot of people don't understand that the remote oil is a separate system from the internal workings of the post. All a remote bleed will is affect the remote. If the remote is low on oil or has air in it, the post will be slow to return and a bit slow to drop down. If a reverb is sagging, all the remote bleeding in the world won't help. There are a number of o rings and seals and **** inside that wear out. 15 hours use and a sagging post is BS. Something is wrong inside the post if that is happening. The post should only sag a tiny amount. I think mine after the rebuild sags under a mm. BFD. I probably had 100 hours on it.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

someoldfart said:


> Something wrong there Eurospek. I had mine rebuilt, full seal kit and bushings too, by a local Whistler suspension tuner that specializes in Rock Shox. $75.00.
> 
> I think a lot of people don't understand that the remote oil is a separate system from the internal workings of the post. All a remote bleed will is affect the remote. If the remote is low on oil or has air in it, the post will be slow to return and a bit slow to drop down. If a reverb is sagging, all the remote bleeding in the world won't help. There are a number of o rings and seals and **** inside that wear out. 15 hours use and a sagging post is BS. Something is wrong inside the post if that is happening. The post should only sag a tiny amount. I think mine after the rebuild sags under a mm. BFD. I probably had 100 hours on it.


What shop is that btw in Whistler? Good to know for the future. I have worked on forks before like regular seal changes and oil maintenance but kinda intimidated by opening up the Reverb for a full service, especially with it still being under warranty these past two years. Plus as much as I like my LBS, I can't stomach paying $150 for a service there, a place that doesn't specialize in suspension work. I was trying to find a US based suspension shop to send my Reverb to but PUSH nor Avalanche offers any type of Reverb services. I'm still looking for a shop here but shipping to Whistler and back I'm still probably going to be under $100 for a service.

And something was definitely wrong with the post, that's what I can't fathom why SRAM didn't even bother looking at it. Oh well, onto the next one. :thumbsup:


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Just a follow up, got off the phone with SRAM and a miscommunications issue is to blame lol, but of course. :skep: I was told an RA is always possible to acquire and have the SRAM product sent over for a warranty evaluation, and it will be repaired/replaced or I will get charged for service if it isn't covered under warranty (but this is rarely done I was told and not to expect to send them my product for regular service). Maintenance interval is 50 hours for basic service and 100 hours for a full rebuild.

I did find out about two suspension shops that do service Rockshox products from this tech on the phone and they are Suspension Experts and ISO Tuned, great to know for future use as I'm already looking for another Reverb. :thumbsup:


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## ride the biscuit (Jun 4, 2009)

eurospek said:


> I did find out about two suspension shops that do service Rockshox products from this tech on the phone and they are Suspension Experts and ISO Tuned, great to know for future use as I'm already looking for another Reverb. :thumbsup:


Suspension experts is in my backyard...highly recommended but they will NOT touch your reverb.

I found a local guy around that I trust to do a good job. I'm sure someone in your area is competent and willing to take it on.

I am actually waiting to see what will happen with my ~3 yo reverb. the shop i bought it from is the only shop to service it about 1.5yr ago (ive just dont simple bleeds myself). They damaged the upper seal head bad enough that subsequent services could ruin it altogether, but got it working last service after having to take it back to them a 2nd time due to sagging post when i first got it back. This time i took it to the local guy I like, and he found the damage and documented it for that original shop. The original shop is going to service it for free and/or see what RS is willing to do...satisfied so far and hoping for a good outcome.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

eurospek said:


> Just a follow up, got off the phone with SRAM and a miscommunications issue is to blame lol, but of course. :skep: I was told an RA is always possible to acquire and have the SRAM product sent over for a warranty evaluation, and it will be repaired/replaced or I will get charged for service if it isn't covered under warranty (but this is rarely done I was told and not to expect to send them my product for regular service). Maintenance interval is 50 hours for basic service and 100 hours for a full rebuild.
> 
> I did find out about two suspension shops that do service Rockshox products from this tech on the phone and they are Suspension Experts and ISO Tuned, great to know for future use as I'm already looking for another Reverb. :thumbsup:


Eurospek, I feel for ya, man. Wish you lived right next to me in my neck of the woods. I'd be happy to help you out. If you look at the manufacturing tolerances of Buna N o-rings, they actually have a fairly large range. This isn't too surprising though. They are a small inexpensive item that is manufactured in a very large volume. The problem is when they fail everything goes to crap. It's tough when an inexpensive cheap part is used in an area that requires precision, accuracy and durability. This goes for forks and shocks as well. For example, my Pike one day went to absolute crap. I couldn't figure out for the life of me why it was working so poorly. I had recently changed my 150mm air spring to a 160mm air spring to get the proper geometry on my Enduro 29er. I couldn't believe how horribly the front end of my bike handled. I was confused and tried everything. It finally occurred to me to let all the air out and compress the fork up and down to see if the o-rings all felt smooth. Turns out, I couldn't extend the fork by hand after letting out all the air. The culprit? A bad quad ring on the airshaft piston from the get-go. Rockshox new solo air spring uses a scalloped out section of the stanchion to balance the positive and negative air chambers, but a balance wasn't happening. Air was getting trapped in the negative chamber. I took off the offending quad ring and looked at the good one from my 150mm spring. There was about a 1mm difference in OD even though they were the same o-ring. Nothing that Rockshox did incorrectly, its the o-rings that they source.

My point of this story is the premature failure of your post after 15 hours. I can bet that the actual Rockshox parts are fine. There is more than likely a bad o-ring that was simply bad from the start. I fully understand using your warranty to its fullest extent, but it sounds like you are getting to the point that I eventually did; the hassle is not worth it. I know you read this forum regularly, why not try to do the service on your own? You'd be back up and running quicker than constantly dealing with SRAM.


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

What number did you call euro? My lbs is telling me sram is telling them to pretty much pound sand. I have had the post rebuilt twice and bleed 3 times over the last two seasons and am at wits end. I cant find my receipt or I would have returned this pile of **** a while ago. Im sick of buying rebuild kits and paying mechanics outrageous prices. Im over $500 bucks into this post and its broken.....AGAIN! so my options seem to be to add on another $100 to have it fail again........


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

hitechredneck said:


> What number did you call euro?


312-664-8800 then #2 for the Dealer & Technical Department


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## citizensnips3 (Nov 22, 2013)

Hi guys, new to the thread, i have searched the thread for an answer, but couldnt find it, sorry if its buried in the last 70 pages.

I unboxed my Reverb Stealth today, and went to install, but i cannot seem to remove the hose from the remote end, to be able to feed it through the frame. The manual states to hold the hose, and rotate the lever, but all this does is remove the entire barb setup. Any hints?


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Grab the barb with a a wrench (it has flat spots for one) and unscrew the hose from the barb. If you don't hold the barb, the barb will unscrew from the remote.


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## Onespeed24 (Aug 2, 2013)

Finally took the plunge and got a new Reverb Stealth. My frame is a 2009 Stumpy FSR, so no accommodations for a hose. A friend had the standard Reverb but didn't like the hose sticking out when compressed, so he traded it in for a Stealth. I took that as a sign and went straight for the Stealth.

I drilled a hole on the back of the seat tube (see pics), and routed the hose out the back and down under the bottom bracket shell and up the bottom of the down tube with the rest of my cables. Pretty clean routing and I'm not too worried about the hole in the seat tube. There are holes all over your bike for water bottle cages and whatever. Heck, I've seen guys drill out entire sections of tubing on BMX bikes to shave weight. I drilled it just big enough to fit a rubber grommet, and filed the edges smooth. The seat tube angles back towards the bottom, so I drilled just above the bend so the hose wouldn't have a big radius to get down to the BB shell. Worked out pretty well and looks pretty clean.

I mounted the right hand plunger on the left bottom like most people are doing. I have long thumbs so it works pretty well even inside of the shifter and brake mount.

Haven't had a chance to ride it on the trail yet, but from the quick ride around the neighborhood I think I'm gonna like it a lot. Only gained 1/2 a pound over my old setup, so well worth it IMO.


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## CasperP (Nov 5, 2013)

Hello MTBr, I've recently purchased a Trek Fuel EX 9 with a Reverb stealth mounted.

I was wondering if its safe to storage the bike hanging in the ceiling in 2 hooks, one in the handlebar and one below the seat(as i store it when i service it) .. i know the seatpost can handle the pressure of my weight, but can it handle the pull pressure aswell? By hanging in the ceiling, supporting its own weight?

Any experiences or thoughts on this?


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

i would not risk that if it were me.. .


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## CasperP (Nov 5, 2013)

bapski said:


> i would not risk that if it were me.. .


Alright, guess i gotta replace the hooks from the ceiling with a repair stand insted then


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## Onespeed24 (Aug 2, 2013)

CasperP said:


> Alright, guess i gotta replace the hooks from the ceiling with a repair stand insted then


I hang all my bikes vertically by the rear tire. That keeps the fork, shock, and now seatpost, aligned so I don't get oil seeping down though the seals. Never had a problem this way.


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## Hotwheel (Feb 26, 2014)

Hi all guys, my name is Ferdinando and i write from Sicily, this is my first post here 

I need to ask you a question about the Reverb Stealth ... I bought mine less than a week ago from BD, the model 430mm with 150mm of travel, for my brand new Genius.

At the second ride, I noticed a slight vertical play of about 1mm: i can feel it pressing with the hands, or sitting on the seat, and hearing a little "click" doing it.

Now, I know there should not be any kind of vertical play, but i asked a guy of the store and he told me that this can be normal (and i don't believe him so much).

I know that could be normal a little lateral play (as in all telescopic seatpost), but not vertical. 

Honestly I am afraid that it will increase suddenly, I would like to avoid problems in the beautiful season, and I do not know what to do, if send it back for a return now, or what. 

In your experience, (this is the model 150mm travel), can be this normal, or maybe is better if i send it back for a return, and get a new one? (moreover, next i bought it, the price has been reduced by €20 -_-)


Thank you guys, sorry for any mistakes, and... Keep Riding! : D


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## patineto (Oct 28, 2005)

Okay so I trade my right actuator lever for a left one and now I can not get the post to bleed, no matter how much I try..

One thing I did wrong (I think) was to leave the post on the compress position, any tips or tricks besides the SRAM videos on written tutorials will be really helpful..


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## Hotwheel (Feb 26, 2014)

Really nobody can't answer me about the 1mm play?


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## Onespeed24 (Aug 2, 2013)

Hotwheel said:


> Really nobody can't answer me about the 1mm play?


Well, not that many people have the 150mm version, not that it's any different from the others in terms of functionality. 
As most have noted, a little play is normal, and almost to be expected with this (or any) dropper post. 150mm fully extended puts a lot more stress at the junction of the two tubes, so I wouldn't be surprised if there is a little more movement than the 125mm or 100mm versions.

I assume you've done all the recommended bleeding and whatnot?
If so, try raising the fixed portion of the post by a few mm, then fully extend the post and then drop it by the same few mm and see if it's solid. That's not ideal, but it may keep the post from moving.

Your choices are: 
1. Ride it as is 
2. Send it back for another one
If you ride it as-is and it gets worse or fails completely, you're still under warranty and can send it back then. 
If you send it back now for a new one, it could be perfect, or it could have the same characteristics... and you'd lose that much more ride time.


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

Hotwheel said:


> Really nobody can't answer me about the 1mm play?


I really wouldn't worry about 1mm of play - that is nothing - just think of it as another 1mm of travel! There is often a very slight amount of play in all dropper posts, especially hydraulic.

Besides what Onespeed said, you should also make sure you are at 250 psi (I'm assuming it is the same psi for Stealth?)


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## patineto (Oct 28, 2005)

Laterilus said:


> Yes, this can be fixed. You will want to bleed the post from the fully extended position. First, keep the post filled with air pressure. Remove the saddle and the saddle clamp. You will see the top of the poppet valve. You are going to manually activate it. Carefully push down on the top of the poppet valve with some sort of tool that is approximately the same diameter as the top of the poppet valve that also won't gouge or marr the valve. The post should return to normal height. Always remember to be careful when doing this as the contents are under a lot of pressure. You will also more than likely release some more oil out of the top of the poppet valve when doing this procedure.


Very helpful, a "blue park" tire lever works perfectly to push on the Poppet..

Now my post is extended...


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## Hotwheel (Feb 26, 2014)

I asked because i know - or at least, i read this by many users - that the Reverb shouldn't have any vertical play.

@Onespeed24: Could you explain me better this:


Onespeed24 said:


> try raising the fixed portion of the post by a few mm, then fully extend the post and then drop it by the same few mm and see if it's solid. That's not ideal, but it may keep the post from moving.


for what might be useful?


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## james12345pt (Oct 13, 2013)

Hotwheel said:


> Really nobody can't answer me about the 1mm play?


I have 3mm of sag or downward play. I had my lbs call Rockshox because I thought that it could be an Warranty issue. Rockshox claims thar up to 5mm of sag was normal,


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## Hotwheel (Feb 26, 2014)

james12345pt said:


> I have 3mm of sag or downward play. I had my lbs call Rockshox because I thought that it could be an Warranty issue. Rockshox claims thar up to 5mm of sag was normal,


Sag? :skep:
Are we talking about a seatpost or a fork? 

I know that other models may have a little vertical play, for example before i had a mechanical seatpost (N4A) and there was a little, but in all the other times when i read about vertical plays on the Reverb, their owners have gotten the replacement and/or repair under warranty because it was just a problem.


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## Onespeed24 (Aug 2, 2013)

Hotwheel said:


> I asked because i know - or at least, i read this by many users - that the Reverb shouldn't have any vertical play.
> 
> @Onespeed24: Could you explain me better this:
> 
> for what might be useful?


Does the post only move when in the fully extended position? 
If you drop it down just a few mm, does it still move? 
If no, then try running it just below full extension, where it feels solid... but you may have to move the entire post up a few mm to get the best riding position.

If you've read this entire thread, tried every remedy suggested, and still think your post is bad, just send it back for a new one.


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## patineto (Oct 28, 2005)

I do have a small concern, when bleeding the remote line I saw a few small black "particles" floating around, they look like a oring/seal has disintegrated, do I worry about it or just let it go..?

I finally got my remote to "work" but is not perfect and I'm wondering if this pieces of rubber have something to do with it..


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## Hotwheel (Feb 26, 2014)

Onespeed24 said:


> Does the post only move when in the fully extended position?


This vertical play is in every extended positions, except in the full low (totally compressed).

My Reverb, however, is still in terms of return, so I can decide to avail of it and then decide if to take another 150mm or maybe a 125, for more reliability security.

Moreover, immediately after I bought it, the price has been reduced by 20€, and this is not so correct -_-


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## merijn101 (Nov 17, 2007)

Just got a reply from SRAM after my Reverb Stealth was send if for an issue after 12 month in use, and I would like your take in this.

Issue: suit post dropping little less than an inch when sitting down on it in the highest position, moving up when unloaded. Remote working sharp and upwards movement running smooth. I thought this might be some air in the oil chamber of the post, but SRAM found something rather different.

"We have found contaminated fluid while bleeding the remote. All the seals have been destroyed as this looks to be brake fluid&#8230; We cannot service your post as it is destroyed, and will surely not give you any warranty because you have inserted brake fluid . You want the left overs or not?"
They added some pictures of a bleed kit on the remote with about half an inch of darker/dirty fluid in the top of the syringe. 














I was feeling furious when I read this email. I have never bled the system, and if I would try to bleed I would have just used the supplied kit.

After consulting with the bike company SRAM came back with following:
The oil in the remote is the same as in the post and the systems are connected. The contaminated fluid has thereby gone everywhere (in the remote and post) and killed all the seals. This is an unfixable damage. End of story, your problem...

Besides the fact that I never injected any strange fluids in the system I think SRAM in plain lying, but I might be mistaken&#8230; In my assumption the remote oil is not connected to the oil in the post. A bleed of the post cannot be performed by bleeding thru the remote. Also the dropping and returning of the post after unloading does not seem related to a remote issue. And lastly, a rebuild is possible with replacement of all seals&#8230;

I've been offered a new post for 200euro (online shops sell for 305) by the bike company and my old post back. I took this deal as it is my wife's bike and we have a lot of rides planned upcoming month. I feel cheated by SRAM but I can't do anything about it because they will not deal with consumers directly here in The Netherlands. The bike company is trying to be helpful, but they feel they have to trust on the expertise of the SRAM technicians...

What's your guys view on this?


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## Hotwheel (Feb 26, 2014)

Absurd. 
Really absurd.


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## someoldfart (Mar 14, 2013)

I think you correct in the remote and internal oil are separate things. It is possible that a shop maybe bled something with the wrong oil? That oil destroyed the seals in the remote system and then mixed with the internals.? Those posts come with a long hose which needs to be trimmed which usually then requires a bleed of the remote. Maybe a shop mixed up the syringes from a brake kit with a remote kit. They are the same.


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## vikingboy (Nov 5, 2008)

it looks like there is two kinds of liquid in that system for sure. I would be surprised if a company the size of SRAM would try to weazle out of a warranty claim for a measly $300 post if they didn't have reason to believe they were right. If indeed there is two types of fluid in there then they got in there somehow, was the post bought new in a sealed box, i.e not a refurb or something where a previous owner may have bled incorrectly.
If the seals are screwed which in all likelihood they are if that is indeed brake fluid, its likely that wear will have occurred to the moving parts preventing just a replacement of seals. Its probably scrap although some spares could be salvaged so long as they are cleaned thoroughly, I'm thinking remote etc as they often get broken. 
Depends how big a deal this is to you in order to decide how to proceed but I'll be interested to see if theres any further info.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

I believe there will be a little mixing of oil between remote and internal post every time you push the remote button. Probably enough to the point where every seal has been contaminated. 

You mentioned just noticing the typical sagging issue. Did you ever hear or feel metal on metal grinding? If not, the post is still good. I would just clean it all out and replace the destroyed seals. They don't cost much.


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## merijn101 (Nov 17, 2007)

Post came with the bike, bought new from Canyon (German online brand). I have (had) 5 of their bikes until now, never had problems with them. I asked them if they have brake fluid handy when they assemble bikes, but they insist that brakes come with lines in the right length, so they don't bleed them… (brake bleed kit has the same connections as the remote line bleed kit). Although it was not "officially" confirmed that it was indeed DOT, that was the assumptions of the SRAM technician.

Interesting is if the fluid would have killed all the internals besides the seals. From what I understand seals that are in contact with different fluids (as in DOT and shimano brake fluid) swell and therefore get damaged. Paint gets damaged by DOT, but do the anodized layers of the post also? Questions, questions...

I did buy the new post already to insure a happy wife, but maybe having a degree in engineering makes me want to understand what is going on here (or did I get into engineering because I want to understand stuff?!). If the fluid is indeed brake fluid and it got in there thru a remote line bleed, how would it get in contact with the oil in the post? And if all the seals separating the remote line and the post were gone, would the remote not have stopped working?


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## merijn101 (Nov 17, 2007)

As far as I can see on the oil circuits drawing from the "normal" reverb, the circuit are fully separated. I have read that the Stealth works the same, but is inverted inside (not confirmed by drawings&#8230. This system is a "normal" hydraulic system, with hi-pressure and low-pressure separated.


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## istvisinet (May 20, 2008)

That is a bunch of crap. Call SRAM directly and ask to speak with a product or division manager. These posts have had problems since day one and they know it. I am personally on my 6th or 7th one since late 2010 and none of them lasted more that a few months except 1, which held up for about year. 9 out of 10 people I talk to on the trail and in local bike shops have also had multiple failures. I also have personally talked to multiple bike manufactures demo team members and they all have had issues. No wonder why every demo I have been to lately are using droppers other than the reverb. This is not an isolated problem, it is at best a piss poor quality control issue, and at worse a defective product with serious design issues. I would be irate if I got the response that you got from RS.

As for the different looking fluid in your picts, that looks exactly how the fluid looked in each and every remote bleed I had done on my multiple posts. Very contaminated with black stuff. I always wondered how it could get so contaminated after only a few months. If it is in fact a sign that the wrong type of fluid was used, then my guess is that it is being done that way at the factory, which would explain the piss poor reliability of these things. 

I apologize for my rant but this just really pisses me off.


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## patineto (Oct 28, 2005)

Okay after many attempts (yes I watch the videos/read the instructions) I got the remote to work, but sadly now the saddle drops down about 3/4" under load and after reading 71 pages of comments I'm wondering if the problem is somewhere else...

Oh another thing where I can get Orings for the brass nipples...? my kit came with out spares and I already damage one..


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## Jaymanjibe (Nov 30, 2012)

Subscribed...
I recently purchased a bike with a reverb dropper post.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

patineto said:


> Okay after many attempts (yes I watch the videos/read the instructions) I got the remote to work, but sadly now the saddle drops down about 3/4" under load and after reading 71 pages of comments I'm wondering if the problem is somewhere else...
> 
> Oh another thing where I can get Orings for the brass nipples...? my kit came with out spares and I already damage one..


patineto, if your post is dropping 3/4" under load, your internal o-rings have gone bad in the post cartridge. It has nothing to do with the remote circuit. Those black particles are chewed up o-rings, but if you are seeing them in your bleed process of the remote, then they only function for the remote circuit. In fact, I bet your remote worked just fine after a bleed even though you had some chewed up o-rings come out.

The internal post o-rings can last a couple of weeks, a year, or even longer. That might not be what you want to hear, but it is pretty much true of all the dropper posts out there that use hydraulic internals. It is the price you pay to have your post stop or extend at any point you want. The only way around it is either fixing the post, or going to one of those mechanical posts that stop at 3 set points. I've detailed out some tips and posted links to the Rockshox internal post rebuild videos. If you follow those, you will be able to fix your problem.

Lastly, what o-rings are you talking about? brass nipples? lol. you'll have to post a picture. I'm not sure what you are referring to.


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## vikingboy (Nov 5, 2008)

Jaymanjibe said:


> Subscribed...
> I recently purchased a bike with a reverb dropper post.


subscribing to this thread is like a curse....be warned!


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## patineto (Oct 28, 2005)

Laterilus said:


> patineto, if your post is dropping 3/4" under load, your internal o-rings have gone bad in the post cartridge. It has nothing to do with the remote circuit. Those black particles are chewed up o-rings, but if you are seeing them in your bleed process of the remote, then they only function for the remote circuit. In fact, I bet your remote worked just fine after a bleed even though you had some chewed up o-rings come out.
> 
> The internal post o-rings can last a couple of weeks, a year, or even longer. That might not be what you want to hear, but it is pretty much true of all the dropper posts out there that use hydraulic internals. It is the price you pay to have your post stop or extend at any point you want. The only way around it is either fixing the post, or going to one of those mechanical posts that stop at 3 set points. I've detailed out some tips and posted links to the Rockshox internal post rebuild videos. If you follow those, you will be able to fix your problem.


Oh man I was afraid of that and sincerely after watching the videos I think the fix is a little above my paid grade..

Well at least now I know..

Ps: where is the best place to send it..!?



> Lastly, what o-rings are you talking about? brass nipples? lol. you'll have to post a picture. I'm not sure what you are referring to.


The Oring I'm referring to is the one at the end of the syringe that seals against the post/remote and is about 3mm ID..


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

If you are within 2 years of purchasing your post, just take it to your LBS and have them send it into SRAM. They will fix it or send you a new one (usually. Someone recently posted a very unusual circumstance where SRAM found another color of liquid in their post and blamed the end user, unfortunately). 

If you didn't buy your post from your LBS, you can call the online shop and see if they can help. Lastly, if you are in good with a local shop, even if you didn't buy it from them, they can still deal with SRAM warranty issues for you. I personally buy 80% of all my bike transactions from my LBS. They know good and well that I come in with parts that weren't bought from them, but from an online shop, but since I'm a good customer, they will still go to bat for me when it comes to warranty issues even if it is something not bought from them. 

Lastly, fixing the Reverb isn't as bad as you might think. Yes, it is a little intimidating at first, but all in all, I think I spent 2 hours the first time I had to do a full rebuild and that was me going very slow. Time is money though and if you don't have the time to spend, it won't be worth your while to try and fix it yourself. Better send it in, but you could be waiting 2 weeks or more.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

The o-rings on the brass fittings on the hoses can be had at any online o-ring shop or local dealer for like 10 cents. Just measure the thickness of the o-ring and the inner diameter. I use The O-ring Store, Online distributor of O-rings, Seals, and Kits, We make getting your O-rings easy!. Just get Buna-N 70 o-rings.


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## patineto (Oct 28, 2005)

Laterilus said:


> If you are within 2 years of purchasing your post, just take it to your LBS and have them send it into SRAM. They will fix it or send you a new one (usually. Someone recently posted a very unusual circumstance where SRAM found another color of liquid in their post and blamed the end user, unfortunately).
> 
> If you didn't buy your post from your LBS, you can call the online shop and see if they can help. Lastly, if you are in good with a local shop, even if you didn't buy it from them, they can still deal with SRAM warranty issues for you. I personally buy 80% of all my bike transactions from my LBS. They know good and well that I come in with parts that weren't bought from them, but from an online shop, but since I'm a good customer, they will still go to bat for me when it comes to warranty issues even if it is something not bought from them.


I talk and laugh (at expense of my misfortune) with my friends at the LBS (really awesome people, Beehive in SLC) but sadly my post is one of the "silver" ones and is to old to send to SRAM..



> Lastly, fixing the Reverb isn't as bad as you might think. Yes, it is a little intimidating at first, but all in all, I think I spent 2 hours the first time I had to do a full rebuild and that was me going very slow.


Actually with them I found another bad symptom about my post, the saddle rocks fore and aft about 1/16", not much but is there and maybe that is what is killing the orings..



> Time is money though and if you don't have the time to spend, it won't be worth your while to try and fix it yourself. Better send it in, but you could be waiting 2 weeks or more.


For sure I have more time than money but I'm also very OCD and I don't like to get involve in projects I can not resolve to my satisfaction so I think is better if I send it, any recommended places...??

Plus from what I have read is a ton of tools/fixtures to purchase or can you do it on the cheap...??

Again thanks for all the help..


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

patineto said:


> I talk and laugh (at expense of my misfortune) with my friends at the LBS (really awesome people, Beehive in SLC) but sadly my post is one of the "silver" ones and is to old to send to SRAM..
> 
> Actually with them I found another bad symptom about my post, the saddle rocks fore and aft about 1/16", not much but is there and maybe that is what is killing the orings..
> 
> ...


One of the great things about the Reverb, in my humble opinion, is that you CAN fix this thing on the cheap. A new Reverb will cost $300-$400, but the service parts are extremely cheap and once you do get the tools that you need, the Reverb will last basically forever as long as you keep up with the maintenance (which is only o-rings, bushings and oil). So, here is what you need to get your Reverb working properly again:

You definitely need the basic service kit. Thankfully, the highest I've seen these priced is $8
RockShox Reverb Basic Service Kit - Free Shipping with AlsSports.com!
All the most important o-rings are in this kit. Very well done by SRAM. As an added bonus, SRAM also includes the charger bushing in this kit. Your charger bushing will go bad on a yearly basis. That is why you are feeling a lot of fore and aft play in your post.

Again, many people might be 'shocked' that a semi-complex hydraulic system can go bad in a year (saracasm here), but really, once you have the tools, is $8 all that bad to get the most important wear parts? Not in my opinion.

Now, those important o-rings may last a year, maybe not. That is why I replace the dynamic ones (the ones that need to move a lot) with quad rings. My post a few pages back explain where to get them and what sizes.

There is one other bushing on the Reverb that can be replaced besides the charger bushing. It is the bushing that is located inside the large collar on the outside of the post. You still have the silver collar so you have a 2011 version of the post. Unfortunately, SRAM built the collar so that the bushing couldn't be replaced on its own. That's a design flaw as far as I am concerned. The collar costs around $30 to replace, but it shouldn't go bad quickly. Yours is old though so it might be bad, but I think you could get away with just replacing the charger bushing. That should get rid of most of the fore/aft movement. If it doesn't go away, then you might consider replacing the collar unless you can live with the fore/aft movement.

As far as tools go, I put together a bare minimum list to get this done. I'm going to assume you already have an adjustable wrench.

1. Rockshox 2.5wt oil: Rockshox Reverb Hydraulic Fluid 120ML > Components > Saddles and Seatposts > Seatpost Small Parts | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
You'll want a full 120ml bottle for this procedure as you use a lot of oil. Most can be recovered, but if you mess up, you'll want to have enough to do this again. I just got the big 1L bottle since it is still only $15 or so.

2. The Reverb bleed tool: RockShox Reverb Bleed Tool from ModernBike.com
The videos will say you need 3 special tools. You don't. The other tool that looks like this one is not needed. The portion of the video that tells you to clear out all the oil in the top of the seatpost clamp area can be poured out when you get to that step. You also don't need the IFP tool. Take an old spoke or wire hanger, put a rubber tip on it or wrap it with some tape so you don't scratch the inside of your post, and push down your IFP to 125mm or farther. You just don't want to go push it down short. Hit your mark or go beyond and it will be fine.
3. Snap-ring pliers. Can't really get around this one. There is a large snapring on the bottom and a small one on the top.
TEKTON 3578 8-in-1 Universal Snap Ring Pliers Set - Amazon.com
If the 'pegs' on the snapring pliers aren't small enough to fit in the holes on the small snapring on the top of the post, grind them down a little so that they do fit. That's what I did.
4. Slick Honey or Slickoleum (same thing). Order Slickoleum Grease
There really isn't any better grease that I can think of when it comes to lubricating seals in hydraulic systems.

5. Isopropyl alcohol. Go to a drugstore, buy a large bottle of the 70/30 stuff for $1.25. Put it into a spray bottle. Done and done.

6. A method of removing the bottom cap from the air shaft.
There are multiple ways of doing this, and you may have some of the required tools which could make one way cheaper than the other. If you have a strap wrench and vise grips already, go with that method. There should be a large amount of rubber flapping around on the strap wrench. You need that rubber. Wrap it around the air shaft, hold it on tight with the vise grips. Not enough holding power? Put another one on. 
Vise-Grip 10RXXX 10-Inch Vise-Grip Straight Jaw Locking Pliers - Amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-0700...8&qid=1394122333&sr=8-3&keywords=strap+wrench

The other method is using some aluminum softjaws if you already have a vise at your place.
Lisle 48000 Aluminum Vise Jaw Pad : Amazon.com : Automotive
This method is used in the Rockshox videos.

That's it. All in, that is still very cheap in my opinion, and once you have the tools, the only thing you are buying on a yearly basis is the $8 basic seal set and oil maybe if you buy the small bottle of oil. I haven't added up all these things here, but what is the final price? Like $75 or something? I know when I was clicking on all of these links nothing was overly expensive and you may have some of these required parts already.

If you don't want to do the service yourself, the only recommended place would be back to SRAM. I would assume they would charge in the $100 to $150 range, or maybe your bike shop would do it since all the required methods and parts are available to everyone to do the service. Hell, if you want to, send it to me. I've got nothing better to do while I wait for spring to roll around and dry out my local trails!!!


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## patineto (Oct 28, 2005)

Laterilus said:


> One of the great things about the Reverb, in my humble opinion, is that you CAN fix this thing on the cheap. A new Reverb will cost $300-$400, but the service parts are extremely cheap and once you do get the tools that you need, the Reverb will last basically forever as long as you keep up with the maintenance (which is only o-rings, bushings and oil). So, here is what you need to get your Reverb working properly again:
> 
> You definitely need the basic service kit. Thankfully, the highest I've seen these priced is $8
> RockShox Reverb Basic Service Kit - Free Shipping with AlsSports.com!
> ...


What a compendium, thank you so much for sharing and more than anything spending all the time to write it


> If you don't want to do the service yourself, the only recommended place would be back to SRAM. I would assume they would charge in the $100 to $150 range, or maybe your bike shop would do it since all the required methods and parts are available to everyone to do the service. Hell, if you want to, send it to me. I've got nothing better to do while I wait for spring to roll around and dry out my local trails!!!


I may take you up on your offer, I send you a pm in a minute..


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## merijn101 (Nov 17, 2007)

He laterilus, do you know if the rebuild procedure is much different for the Stealth version? I can only find vids for the normal post. I might try a rebuild if i get my "unrepairable" post back from sram. I want to see for myself if all the seals are desolved by the so called brakefluid. And if i can make the post work again in the process, that would be an added bonus.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

merijn101 said:


> He laterilus, do you know if the rebuild procedure is much different for the Stealth version? I can only find vids for the normal post. I might try a rebuild if i get my "unrepairable" post back from sram. I want to see for myself if all the seals are desolved by the so called brakefluid. And if i can make the post work again in the process, that would be an added bonus.


It's not super different, but it's basically done 'upside-down' since the actuation point is on the opposite side as the standard Reverb. The typical o-rings that go bad (the internal seal head and piston rod o-rings) will be the same ones that go bad on the stealth. They are under the most stress. There is no video, but SRAM made a very sweet manual:
https://www.sram.com/sites/default/...00000004211_service_manual_reverb_stealth.pdf

One major difference is the 'need' for an oil level setting tool. 
Motion Pro 08-0121 Fork Oil Level Tool : Amazon.com : Automotive

Is this necessary? I don't know. I've never rebuilt a stealth. If I have, I would have gotten to that step in the instructions and do some trial and error with oil levels to see if I could get it right on my own without having to get this specific tool. I think it is a possible similar situation to the IFP. IFP height isn't critical as long as it starts out at least at the length of your post extension or longer, never shorter.

I strongly advise reading the KS LEV rebuild thread:
http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/ks-lev-diy-cartridge-rebuild-899659.html

There is great information in here along with a fantastic rebuild procedure. I mention it because KS hydraulic posts and the Reverb are essentially the same. One accuates a valve with a cable and the other does it with hydraulic pressure. Past that, they are virtually the same thing. There may be enough clues in the KS LEV rebuild procedure to dodge having to buy that fork height tool.

As far as the destroyed o-rings, your situation is very interesting to me. I can't tell from the picture if there truly is 2 different fluids in your post or if the o-rings got chewed up into a 'dust' and it is making it look like you have another fluid in your post. I've actually had that happen to brakes before. If there is no metal grinding in your post, it isn't a lost cause. I'm sure SRAM's engineers are smart, but the rest of their staff is full of stupids. I can't stand talking with them. They have no idea what they are doing and have no idea how their products work. Your post was sagging, right? So why was SRAM bleeding the remote? What a waste of time! Bleeding the remote will never fix that issue.

I feel like your post is going to be fine. The expensive parts of your post should still work. Just replace all the o-rings and re-bleed. Like someone else mentioned, the remote and post circuits are separate... I should have realized that. That was my mistake for saying they mixed. Since SRAM only pulled the bad fluid from the remote, you can probably get by with only replacing the o-rings in the remote, EXCEPT for all the important internal o-rings in your post, which was the original problem to begin with.


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## merijn101 (Nov 17, 2007)

Thanks for that, this is very helpful! The manual looks very good, I can make this work. I even feel I can get by without the IFP tool as the depth is given at 30mm. Also the oil-height-suction tool should be ok to DIY. 

Having reviewed many sites, forums, pictures and drawings I get the idea my initial feeling is right the SRAM is somehow chickening out from giving me the service I should get. I'm also not convinced it is break fluid from the same experience you mention with brakes. I have also tested DOT and suspension fluid in one syringe (had some at my work) and thadaaaaa: the DOT is more heavy and drops down thru the suspension oil and sits at the bottom of the syringe. The contaminated fluid in the picture floats at the surface of the new bleed oil...

I have a degree in mechanical engineering, that does not make me smart or special, but at least I 'm quick to understand systems and perform problem analyses. I hate it that I cannot have a dialog with the SRAM guys, because I'm sure that they would see that their service denial was a very wrong decision. Their explanation just is not in line with the physics of their own product. What is even more frustrating is the fact that I love RockShox forks for the fact that SRAM is so positive about self-servicing their products. Even for the Reverb they have every part available and detailed vids to guide you. Why-o-why not stand by your product design and just say it's needs a service because o-rings wear out eventually...

I'm actually motivated to get my hands on that post and have my way with it! Looks like I will have to order in the 35euro full service kit as I can't find the small kit available in Euroland. Will keep you posted if I get all the parts in and start the dissection process.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

So with biking season just a few short weeks away in the Midwest, I can finally start putting back my Honzo together again from the yearly maintenance tear down. The missing Reverb was the last piece I was waiting on, that and getting my Fox 34 back from Fox warranty as well. I searched all over for a great price on a new 2014 Reverb 31.6 420mm 125mm drop Right remote and best I could find was some biking shop out in NY for $270 delivered. I figured paying $70 more or so for a gently used Reverb off eBay was worth having SRAM's 2 year warranty even though I have not had the best luck using it. Luckily I had my LBS price match it and they ordered it from QBP and I picked it up yesterday. Hopefully this will be a much better performing post than my first one.


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## Mike_1969_cb450 (Feb 17, 2014)

*Rockshox Reverb, how does it work?*

For what it is worth, after finally opening my reverb up to work on the slow air leak I wrote up my version of how this thing works. Take it for what it is worth and I'm sharing it to hopefully help someone out. It reads like a technical geek spec, but thats pretty much what it is. This is more about the air content and movement of oil than about the importance of grease on all other moving parts.

Rockshox Reverb

Many of the components are structural and do not interact with either oil nor air. The components operating with oil and air are described within. The chief components controlling the operation of the Reverb sliding seat post include:
IPF Tube, Item 8, Internal Floating Piston Tube

IPF, Internal Floating Piston, separates oil from air. Oil on top, air on the bottom.

Reverb upper assembly, Item 6, popit valve controls flow of oil between two volumes, Volume 1: Inside of IFP tube, Volume 2: volume between the outside of IFP tube and upper tube.

Inner Seal head, the inside O rings trap air against the main piston. The outside O rings provide mechanical support. The inner seal head screws into the IPF tube.

Main Piston Shaft MPS, Item 11.
The main piston shaft MPS, The bottom of the MPS has a Schrader air valve assembly screwed into which 250 psi of air pressurizes the inside of the MPS. The air valve assembly is affixed to the bottom of the lower/outer tube using an inside circlip. The lower/outer tube is in turn fixed to the bike frame. The MPS moves in unison with the lower/outer tube creating the sliding action of the seatpost assembly, this sliding is governed by the sliding action of the MPS inside of the IFP tube. The MPS contains a piston configuration at the top with O rings and slip rings. This O ring keeps oil above the main piston shaft and pressurized air below. Air passages at the top of the MPS allow the pressurized air volume to reach the inside of the IFP tube. Air passages at the bottom of the IFP tube allow the pressurized air to reach the outside of the IFP tube, that volume below the Internal floating piston This volume is limited by the position of the IFP piston. The volume below the IFP is charged with air. The volume above the IFP contains oil.

The oil volume remains constant and is shared between the IFP tube and the volume between the out side of the IFP tube and the upper assembly. Remember the main piston shaft, its position determines not only seat height, but also the volume of oil at the top of the IFP tube. The remaining oil sits outside of the IFP tube. The poppet valve controls the flow of oil between these two areas. The poppet valve when depressed allows oil to flow.

When seat is lowered: Poppet valve is pressed in, rider applies force on top of seat. Main piston shaft moves upward, pushing oil from IFP tube to the volume outside of IFP. IFP, the floating piston moves downward to allow this increase in outside oil. This compresses the air below the IPT piston. The 250 initial PSI is now in excess of 300, to top of my gauge.

When seat is raised, poppet valve is pressed into top assembly, allowing oil to flow. In this case the rider applies no force to seat. The compressed air pushes the IFP piston upward. This increases the air volume below the IFP, the oil outside the IFP tube crosses over to the inside of the IFP tube. This in turn pushes the main piston shaft downward which raises the seat.

What to do when your seat post loses air: What seals are responsible for keeping air inside the post? Only a few O rings actually keep the air inside the post. The inside O rings of the Inner Seal head are very important. There are 2, one round, one square that trap air between the main piston and the IFP tube. The bottom of the main piston is screwed into a Schrader valve assembly. This assembly includes an O ring that is screwed into the main piston shaft. The potential for air leak at this location must be considered. Ideally the interface between the main piston tube and the Schrader assembly would be a finer pitch screw thread, high tolerance diameters and multiple O ring seals. I enhanced the current design by simply cutting a rubber washer for the main piston shaft to press against the Schrader assembly. Others have used thread sealant and loctite.


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## Highwaystreets (Apr 3, 2006)

So I recently bought a reverb but I am having some issues with it. I did a full bleed and the post works well for maybe 5-6 full extensions but then it sinks about 2 inches and totally locks up. Is this a re bleed issue or something bigger?


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## Highwaystreets (Apr 3, 2006)

So I recently bought a reverb but I am having some issues with it. I did a full bleed and the post works well for maybe 5-6 full extensions but then it sinks about 2 inches and totally locks up. Is this a re bleed issue or something bigger?


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## jiveturkey (Nov 23, 2011)

my seatpost is stuck in the up possition after shortening the cable and changing lever (first had a defect) lever has a little rebound to it but will not fully extend on its own and has no affect on seatpost at all. (seatpost clamp isnt tight, and I was very careful installing the hose) any help?? thanks in advance.


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## peanutaxis (Aug 19, 2011)

Highwaystreets said:


> So I recently bought a reverb but I am having some issues with it. I did a full bleed and the post works well for maybe 5-6 full extensions but then it sinks about 2 inches and totally locks up. Is this a re bleed issue or something bigger?


Try a rebleed but I'm confident this is more serious. Take it back.



zmcrisp said:


> my seatpost is stuck in the up possition after shortening the cable and changing lever (first had a defect) lever has a little rebound to it but will not fully extend on its own and has no affect on seatpost at all. (seatpost clamp isnt tight, and I was very careful installing the hose) any help?? thanks in advance.


Did you rebleed it?


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## mxzx121 (Jun 16, 2011)

I just bought a used 2013 bike with a reverb. The first 2 weeks it worked fine, the bike was always upright. Hung it by the back wheel for 2 weeks and now the lever will only go in half way, post will not go down.

Anybody have a suggestion?


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## fidib (May 10, 2005)

Anyone knows a place on earth to buy on-line a Rock Shox reverb stealth 30.9 100mm???


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## dorse (Sep 22, 2009)

mxzx121 said:


> I just bought a used 2013 bike with a reverb. The first 2 weeks it worked fine, the bike was always upright. Hung it by the back wheel for 2 weeks and now the lever will only go in half way, post will not go down.
> 
> Anybody have a suggestion?


Put it in a drawer Forget about it.
I have three that don't work. I could get them working but I'm burnt out. I have three KS now.


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## J273 (Apr 12, 2009)

Hi all,

Id like to replace my standard hose with a 4mm hydro hose to allow me to pass it through my frame rather than modding the frame.

Can anyone tell me if its possible to buy 4mm hydro hose and replace the stock 5mm hose?

Many thanks


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## chick0 (Apr 4, 2009)

Recently fitted a Stealth 420 - 31.6 - 150, have only done about 4 rides on it, but with each ride im noticing more and more horizontal play of the saddle. 

Roughly how much play is considered normal? 

(I apologise in advance, as im sure this has been answered many times in this thread already)


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Highwaystreets said:


> So I recently bought a reverb but I am having some issues with it. I did a full bleed and the post works well for maybe 5-6 full extensions but then it sinks about 2 inches and totally locks up. Is this a re bleed issue or something bigger?


The inner o-rings on your seatpost have gone bad. It has nothing to do with the remote. Send it back, or do the full inner post rebuild yourself. Rockshox has YouTube videos on how to do it and I've posted more information on what to do a few pages back.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

mxzx121 said:


> I just bought a used 2013 bike with a reverb. The first 2 weeks it worked fine, the bike was always upright. Hung it by the back wheel for 2 weeks and now the lever will only go in half way, post will not go down.
> 
> Anybody have a suggestion?


Try re-bleeding the remote. Sounds like you aren't getting any pressure behind the post valve which would mean there is a problem in the remote system.


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## Paris Galanis (Sep 5, 2013)

Considering that the top part of the clamp is much bigger than the bottom one would it make sense to try to reverse it for a more centered clamping?


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## Rockrover (Jul 4, 2012)

^^ This has been hashed a bunch, but worth repeating. I just finished mounted my Stealth on my E29 about 10 minutes ago in my hotel room! Easy as pie. Because I'm running 1x11, I bought the post with a right hand lever and put it on the left side which puts it under the bars. I'm REALLY stoked on the mounting as it puts it in a very natural (for me) thumb position. Under mount puts the actuator just about 1/2" higher than where a front der lever would be. Very natural still.


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

Rockrover said:


> ^^ This has been hashed a bunch, but worth repeating. I just finished mounted my Stealth on my E29 about 10 minutes ago in my hotel room! Easy as pie. Because I'm running 1x11, I bought the post with a right hand lever and put it on the left side which puts it under the bars. I'm REALLY stoked on the mounting as it puts it in a very natural (for me) thumb position. Under mount puts the actuator just about 1/2" higher than where a front der lever would be. Very natural still.


Agreed.

I just got a new bike with stealth reverb and 1x11, they used a left mount on the left... my last bike had a std reverb and rh mount on the lhs, I like this solution better than what's on my new bike and it keeps the actuator protected better.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

Trying out a dropper here. Not sure I really want or need one, but for the price, I figured it was worth a shot.

Left hand mount, mounted on the right side. It angles up, so in the "attack position" it looks like my thumb will be able to press it in perfectly.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

How much side to side play is acceptable on a brand new Reverb? I have about 1 to 2 mm side to side movement at the tip of the saddle. Zero riding time on it, brand new out of the box. Quite noticeable even just by handling the bike by the saddle, you can feel the free play. My last Reverb never had so much play after 2 years, and another used Reverb I purchased on eBay the play is half that, barely moves. I'm considering what to do with this new post as I bought it at my LBS. Ride it or push for an exchange?


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

eurospek said:


> How much side to side play is acceptable on a brand new Reverb? I have about 1 to 2 mm side to side movement at the tip of the saddle. Zero riding time on it, brand new out of the box. Quite noticeable even just by handling the bike by the saddle, you can feel the free play. My last Reverb never had so much play after 2 years, and another used Reverb I purchased on eBay the play is half that, barely moves. I'm considering what to do with this new post as I bought it at my LBS. Ride it or push for an exchange?


Check & make sure the top cap is tight.


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## Rockrover (Jul 4, 2012)

eurospek said:


> How much side to side play is acceptable on a brand new Reverb? I have about 1 to 2 mm side to side movement at the tip of the saddle. Zero riding time on it, brand new out of the box. Quite noticeable even just by handling the bike by the saddle, you can feel the free play. My last Reverb never had so much play after 2 years, and another used Reverb I purchased on eBay the play is half that, barely moves. I'm considering what to do with this new post as I bought it at my LBS. Ride it or push for an exchange?


My new (one ride today) has about 1mm side to side play. It has no front to back play at all. Compared to my Gravity Dropper it's tight as a drum! The GD had 2-3mm front to back play and 1-2mm side to side.

I was a bit worried about plunking down $350 on a new dropper. My GD was working just fine, but only had two pre-set drop points. I found on my ride today that having the ability to drop 1"ish and then 2"...And for the steep drops slammed was so nice. The smooth hydraulics worked flawlessly and the actuator was such a pleasure to use...Soooooo smooooooth! It did take a while to get used to a left hand actuation though!


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## patineto (Oct 28, 2005)

Rockrover said:


> It did take a while to get used to a left hand actuation though!


You can always flip it to the other side, but personally I think the left is a better place for the actuator since you shift a lot less than with the right shifter.


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

After 2 full seasons of use I finally had to send in my 125mm for a full rebuild. Yes, I could have done it myself but for less than $100 bucks I figured screw it. It developed about 3/4" of compression over the winter despite attempts to bleed it out. It has been flawless up to this point so no complaints.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

4th ride on my Reverb Stealth, and it is compressing the apparently normal 1/2" or so when sitting.
Pressure is down to 150 psi or less. When pressing the button, you can sometimes hear a fluid filled hiss in the post. Pulled it, and the bottom is covered in oil. 

Tore it apart tonight to check it out, and I found the o-ring in the inner seal head to be bulged out, and cut in three spots. It appears to have blown out and he brass pin guides are cutting it. That explains the oil and the hissing, as well as loss of pressure.

Going to try to call SRAM Monday and see what they can do, if anything. Bought the post on the interwebs, so it's not like a local shop will want to deal with any warranty.
My first Rock Shox part since 1996 when the Judy SL was out. Wasn't impressed with Rock Shox then....hoping something good comes of this, to try to swing me back the other way!!


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

DethWshBkr said:


> 4th ride on my Reverb Stealth, and it is compressing the apparently normal 1/2" or so when sitting.


1/2" compression when sitting is exactly what I need to get my height problem solved! Do you think there is a way to induce that bit of sag for a post that doesn't have it?


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

DethWshBkr said:


> Going to try to call SRAM Monday and see what they can do, if anything. Bought the post on the interwebs, so it's not like a local shop will want to deal with any warranty.


I had chronic problems with the old 2012 post and tried to figure out how to contact SRAM. Everything on their website points to the LBS as the starting point of any warranty process - they won't deal with individual customers. LBS people know this and take care of warranties on stuff you didn't buy from them. It's helps if you buy some stuff from them on a regular basis, though. Or beer. I hear mtbers like beer


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## gripper35 (Oct 11, 2013)

just got a brand-new Reverb. Great deal from Chain Reaction Cycles (UK). Darn thing don't work. Won't extend or contract. Appears to be stuck in the lowest position. I can't get it to budge. Rather than deal with international shipping etc to return/replace I'm hoping there's an easy fix/solution. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks.


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## gretch (Aug 27, 2010)

gripper35 said:


> just got a brand-new Reverb. Great deal from Chain Reaction Cycles (UK). Darn thing don't work. Won't extend or contract. Appears to be stuck in the lowest position. I can't get it to budge. Rather than deal with international shipping etc to return/replace I'm hoping there's an easy fix/solution. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks.


Bleed the sucker.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

DethWshBkr said:


> 4th ride on my Reverb Stealth, and it is compressing the apparently normal 1/2" or so when sitting.
> Pressure is down to 150 psi or less. When pressing the button, you can sometimes hear a fluid filled hiss in the post. Pulled it, and the bottom is covered in oil.
> 
> Tore it apart tonight to check it out, and I found the o-ring in the inner seal head to be bulged out, and cut in three spots. It appears to have blown out and he brass pin guides are cutting it. That explains the oil and the hissing, as well as loss of pressure.
> ...


This is a common fail when they do. You just need a basic rebuild kit.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

To heck with the basic rebuild kit at $42+ shipping.

Fixed it for $.74, a bleeder kit, and three hours (including removal from the bike, seat swap so I could ride, tear down, cleaning, reassembly, and putting back on the bike and ridable)

Tore it apart per the service manual, and went to the hardware store and got an o-ring for $.69+tax. The o-ring is not the "EXACT" size, but it seals properly. Post is SMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOTH, rock solid, and works perfect.


I have an oil height gauge from my motocross bike in the forks, (the bleeder syringe with a piece of tubing measured to the 226mm works beautifully as well, and is actually what I used so I didn't contaminate my MX tool) and the IFP tool is un-necessary with a set of Veriner calipers, some of my HVAC braze rod and a little bit of mechanical understanding. 

Now that I know completely how this thing works, I shouldn't have any issues in the future.


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## gripper35 (Oct 11, 2013)

"bleed the sucker"

Thanks
Sorry to be dense
When I read the doc, view the youtube instruction vids, etc
they all say to push the button to extend to post to the max, then do the other steps...
but my post is stuck in the lowest position
So, how will bleeding help?


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

Make sure you have 250 psi in the post. 
What you are bleeding is the actual mechanism that causes it to go up and down. In my Stealth, the fluid from the button pushes up a poppet mechanism that allows the system to flow fluid and it will extend upward due to the 250 psi inside. 


Try bleeding it first, even though it is in the lowest position. It MAY be enough to allow it to extend, and then you can try bleeding it again.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

gripper35 said:


> just got a brand-new Reverb. Great deal from Chain Reaction Cycles (UK). Darn thing don't work. Won't extend or contract. Appears to be stuck in the lowest position. I can't get it to budge. Rather than deal with international shipping etc to return/replace I'm hoping there's an easy fix/solution. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks.


Make sure you don't have it clamped too tightly by the seat post clamp. The Reverb is sensitive when it comes to this.


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## 2013megaAM (Jun 12, 2013)

Got mine from CRC as my old one died after a £80 service . Did notice that my reverb did not come in a rock shox box and no bleed kit no paper work . I'm not the only one who has got them like this and I wonder why ? CRC gas dropped the price aswell to £170 again I wonder why ? Makes you think they have a dodgy job lot don't it . Mine needed bleeding and has lots of side to side play .can not be bothered searching forums for help when clearly it don't work as it should . Sending it back via CRC free post let them sort it


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## Chuvak (Feb 9, 2012)

Hello guys. It's pretty difficult to real all of 73 pages, so I'll try to ask.
I have a reverb seatpost and it has a bug. is comes back ONLY at the lowest speed. If I turn it to the faster side even a bit, it doesn't release. But at the same time it goes down and fixes in any position pretty good. 
I can disassemble it, but what do I need to look at? Or I just need to bleed it any special way?


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## Thimk (May 25, 2007)

2013megaAM said:


> Got mine from CRC as my old one died after a £80 service . Did notice that my reverb did not come in a rock shox box and no bleed kit no paper work . I'm not the only one who has got them like this and I wonder why ? CRC gas dropped the price aswell to £170 again I wonder why ? Makes you think they have a dodgy job lot don't it . Mine needed bleeding and has lots of side to side play .can not be bothered searching forums for help when clearly it don't work as it should . Sending it back via CRC free post let them sort it


Just got mine from CRC today.

I got the full retail box with the bleed kit, enduro collar, etc.

No issues at all out of the box. Has the typical .5 - 1mm of twist/play.


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## sandatos (Feb 18, 2009)

hello,
I've a problem during servicing my reverb. When unscrewing the inner seal head, it's not the nut head that turn but the whole tube so that the seatpost head is unscrewing.
Seems the inner seal head was tighen at a too high torque...
Anyone had the same problem ?


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

2013megaAM said:


> Got mine from CRC as my old one died after a £80 service . Did notice that my reverb did not come in a rock shox box and no bleed kit no paper work . I'm not the only one who has got them like this and I wonder why ? CRC gas dropped the price aswell to £170 again I wonder why ? Makes you think they have a dodgy job lot don't it . Mine needed bleeding and has lots of side to side play .can not be bothered searching forums for help when clearly it don't work as it should . Sending it back via CRC free post let them sort it


That will be the OEM version, no box and no bleed kit, hence the cheaper price.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

sandatos said:


> hello,
> I've a problem during servicing my reverb. When unscrewing the inner seal head, it's not the nut head that turn but the whole tube so that the seatpost head is unscrewing.
> Seems the inner seal head was tighen at a too high torque...
> Anyone had the same problem ?


Interesting, that's a new one for me.

If you are looking to do an internal bleed, my guess is that your post is already sagging. Since you will be changing the oil anyway, my suggestion is to continue forward and completely unscrew the seat post head. Don't worry, it can come off and go back on. I've done this before. Drain the oil from your post and thoroughly clean the threads of the seat post head and on the inside of the post where the seat post head screws into.

The interesting part here is that the seat post head should have had a VERY strong locktite on it. There should have been no way the inner seal head would require more torque than the seat post head, and yet, here you are with that problem. Once the threads are clean, use red locktite on both and put it back together.

Next, you'll want to find a different spot to clamp your post since your seat post head is not sturdy enough to hold while you are attempting to remove the inner seal head. Get some grooved aluminum soft jaws like these:
Amazon.com: Lisle 48000 Aluminum Vise Jaw Pad: Automotive
Clean the telescoping shaft of your Reverb (the black stanchion in your picture) with ispropyl alcohol. Put the stanchion in lengthwise in the aluminum soft jaws (the stanchion will be parallel to your worktable that your vise rests on). This will give you the maximum amount of surface area to clamp for this procedure. Torque down the vise with softjaws on your stanchion. Try to remove the inner seal head. If the stanchion slips, torque down the vise even more. Don't worry if it slips, the softjaws are aluminum and wont cut into the stanchion. They'll leave some grey marks, but those wipe away. Keep torquing down on your vise more and more til it releases.

If you feel like you've torqued enough and are worried you'll crush the stanchion, heat would be the next thing to use. Get a heat gun. Something like this will do:
Amazon.com: ATD Tools 3736 Dual Temperature Heat Gun Kit: Automotive

Slowly start to heat up the area of the inner sealhead where the threads are. You'll may end up ruining the o-rings on the seal head, but you were probably going to replace them anyway. The heat will start to loosen up the locktite that SRAM used on this part. You may even want to try using heat right off the bat.

Either way, if you follow along with this, I'd be surprised if you still cannot get the inner seal head loose.


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## sandatos (Feb 18, 2009)

ok, I'll try to heat the bolt with a hair dryer to see if it can loose the trheadlock, thank you


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

sandatos said:


> ok, I'll try to heat the bolt with a hair dryer to see if it can loose the trheadlock, thank you


I'm curious if you were able to solve your problem? I'm not sure if a hair dryer will get hot enough to loosen the inner seal head.


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## someoldfart (Mar 14, 2013)

Chuvak said:


> Hello guys. It's pretty difficult to real all of 73 pages, so I'll try to ask.
> I have a reverb seatpost and it has a bug. is comes back ONLY at the lowest speed. If I turn it to the faster side even a bit, it doesn't release. But at the same time it goes down and fixes in any position pretty good.
> I can disassemble it, but what do I need to look at? Or I just need to bleed it any special way?


Bleed the switch. If there's not enough oil in it, you can't open the mechanism all the way. So return is slow.


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## sandatos (Feb 18, 2009)

no, it didn't work...
I sent back the seatpost to warranty, saying it was not normal that I could not loose the inner seal head... Let's see if they will accept the case...
Anyway thank you for the advises.


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## UncleDeanXC (Jul 7, 2009)

2011 ear Reverb seatpost, never an issue but rebuilt it after a bit of slop.
Used full rebuild kit and new black head unit.
When I pump it up to 250psi it compresses.

Tried the trick on Page 58 of this thread to no avail. Any other ideas?

TIA
Dean


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

UncleDeanXC said:


> 2011 ear Reverb seatpost, never an issue but rebuilt it after a bit of slop.
> Used full rebuild kit and new black head unit.
> When I pump it up to 250psi it compresses.
> 
> ...


Sounds like air is getting by the o-rings to the oil side. Also, your poppet valve could be stuck in the open position. With no air in the system, can you compress the seatpost? If so, your poppet valve is definitely stuck open. If not, then you have a bad o-ring (or more) internally that is allowing air to get to the side it isn't supposed to.


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## gripper35 (Oct 11, 2013)

DethWshBkr said:


> Make sure you have 250 psi in the post.
> What you are bleeding is the actual mechanism that causes it to go up and down. In my Stealth, the fluid from the button pushes up a poppet mechanism that allows the system to flow fluid and it will extend upward due to the 250 psi inside.
> 
> Try bleeding it first, even though it is in the lowest position. It MAY be enough to allow it to extend, and then you can try bleeding it again.


Thanks again for the suggestion. Had to buy the bleed kit. My Reverb is apparently the OEM version (no box, no bleed kit). Did the bleed. No joy. Post still will not extend even the smallest amount. It is stuck in the down position. Won't budge. I can not imagine that it is a problem of being clamped too tightly because I have not even installed it onto my bike yet. I am just trying to get it sorted out by holding it in a repair stand.

Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance!


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## JNG (Oct 4, 2011)

I've got a Norco Sight with a Reverb Stealth. Just 2 rides on the new bike. After the second time out I noticed some side to side play in the saddle. I can wiggle the nose of the saddle back and forth a millimetre or two. When the post is all the way down this side to side play becomes more pronounced.

Is this something to be concerned about? Or is it normal for this post?


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## jimithng23 (Feb 11, 2009)

JNG said:


> I've got a Norco Sight with a Reverb Stealth. Just 2 rides on the new bike. After the second time out I noticed some side to side play in the saddle. I can wiggle the nose of the saddle back and forth a millimetre or two. When the post is all the way down this side to side play becomes more pronounced.
> 
> Is this something to be concerned about? Or is it normal for this post?


Mine has done this since it was new in 2012.

Doesn't affect my riding in the least.


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

Can you use the syringes from the Avid bleed kit to bleed the reverb post?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

JNG said:


> I've got a Norco Sight with a Reverb Stealth. Just 2 rides on the new bike. After the second time out I noticed some side to side play in the saddle. I can wiggle the nose of the saddle back and forth a millimetre or two. When the post is all the way down this side to side play becomes more pronounced.
> 
> Is this something to be concerned about? Or is it normal for this post?


People say it shouldn't affect anything, and I even called SRAM to inquire about this (and they confirmed that some side to side play is normal), but paying over $300 for a post, I'd like one that doesn't have any side to side play action. Since I recently needed to buy a new Reverb, it took me three tries to finally purchase a brand new Reverb that has literally zero play. The other two I've had at the house had amount the same amount of play. All had late 2013 production dates.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

eurospek said:


> People say it shouldn't affect anything, and I even called SRAM to inquire about this (and they confirmed that some side to side play is normal), but paying over $300 for a post, I'd like one that doesn't have any side to side play action. Since I recently needed to buy a new Reverb, it took me three tries to finally purchase a brand new Reverb that has literally zero play. The other two I've had at the house had amount the same amount of play. All had late 2013 production dates.


I find it interesting that SRAM uses different diameters on their brass keys for the different Reverbs, although every Reverb I've rebuilt had the brass keys with the 3 lines as opposed to the 4, 5 or 6. You can remove some, if not all, of the the side play by installing a larger diameter brass key. That's what I did and it worked fine. I used the keys that have 4 lines on them. They come in the large rebuild kit.


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## Scotth72 (Mar 15, 2004)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> Can you use the syringes from the Avid bleed kit to bleed the reverb post?


The brake syringes? No. You can use the reverb remote bleed kit.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

Not sure why people buy reverb. Fox doss and thomson are very reliable and durable; ans u dont need to bleed itm


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> Can you use the syringes from the Avid bleed kit to bleed the reverb post?


Yes, as long as they are new ones uncontaminated by brake fluid.


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## PiroChu (Apr 8, 2004)

*my used 2011 model (125mm travel; 30.9mm x 380mm; 535g)*

I picked up an used 2011 model (125mm travel; 30.9mm x 380mm; 535g on my digital scale).

Luckily I've not had any issues with it so far (crossing my fingers) in the past 3~4wks I've had it, granted that this is my first dropper post (so I don't have anything else to compare against). It operates well up-and-down, without a play/wiggle.

I'm using the right-hand switch mounted upside-down on the left side, and I put on a black-plastic zip-tie cable clamp (cheap from a local hardware store) as a "guide" (pic) to manage the cable movements (not getting in the way of my legs or the rear tire), which I think is working very well for me.

Cheers,
- PiroChu


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

I like the loop-de-doo around the post. 
But, even better, would be to shorten your hose. 

I know it sounds like a pain, but actually, you can cut that sucker and reinstall it without doing a bleed. You just have to hold the hose up high and not let any fluid dump out. 

Google Reverb hose shortening. I did it on mine in about 5 minutes.


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## PiroChu (Apr 8, 2004)

*cable routing*



smilinsteve said:


> I like the loop-de-doo around the post.
> But, even better, would be to shorten your hose.


Thanks for your feedback. Yes, upon purchasing it, I'd also assumed that I'd be shortening it (easy enough) for a cleaner look.

However, while experimenting with different routing scenarios during installation, I realized the following in my situation:

If shortened for a clean look (when the saddle is up), the cable flair occurs in the down/rear direction towards the moving frame and the rear tire (red lines in pic) while the saddle is lowered.
If kept long with a loop around the seatpost, the cable flair occurs in the up/front direction away from all the moving parts & the rear tire (green lines in pic) while the saddle is lowered. And the loop "takes up" the flair very nicely, only becoming a slightly larger circle without getting in the way of my legs at all.

It's not the cleanest look, I know, but the practicality won for me. 

Of course, all this depends on the frame design (cable guides & routes), unless with a KS LEV.

Cheers,
- PiroChu


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

Bought my Reverb new in 2012. Worked flawlessly for 6 months, then suddenly lost air pressure. I'm so glad I decided to dig into it myself back then rather than send it back. Turned out the inner seal head had unthreaded enough to let the all-important o-ring that keeps everything nicely sealed pop out - which immediately results in a loss of pressure. Bought the seal kit and a new top cap, watched the SRAM videos, disassembled only far enough to reset the inner seal head, no special tools needed, no bleeding of the post, no bleeding of the remote - worked flawlessly for the next year and a half.

Fast forward to a week ago.

I'd been noticing the play in the post increasing in the last few months so I started ordering the parts to rebuild it again. Last weekend it suddenly lost pressure before I got around to it. Watched the videos again to refresh my memory, disassembled and sure enough as the photo shows, the pesky seal head had backed out again over time until the o-ring finally popped out, and predictably the bushings were shot. Now after nearly 2 years of hard use, I kinda doubted I could get away with the same abbreviated version of the rebuild I did the first time, but I gave it a shot. Resealed and reset the inner seal head with locktite, didn't remove the inner tube or the IFP, didn't bleed the post, didn't bleed the remote. Works stupid awesome! Like brand new again, no play whatsoever, perfect up & down action, positive locking throughout its range of travel. I've got it down to a 2 beer procedure. If you haven't tried fixing your post yourself, I'm here to tell you it's not rocket science, you just need a laptop, a bench vise, a clean work environment and the right basic tools. And a few beers.:thumbsup:

Aloha.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Betarad, great post. I think the same way, too. It isn't super hard to do and requires very little tools. It is an excellent design even though many seem to hate the Reverb. SRAM still is the only one that shows you exactly how to fix their post and provides all the parts to do it. For future reference, check out my previous post where I listed the o-ring sizes. Then the only reason to buy the SRAM rebuild kit from time to time is to get the lower bushing, but like you, I find that bushing will last for quite awhile before it gets bad. 

Your problem area is not uncommon. It is the only strike against this design. That inner seal head always works itself loose. I've tried loctite in the past but with no success. There is too much oil in that area, even if you are careful. I've recently started using Teflon tape. Not for the purpose of added air sealing, but just to take up more space between the threads to keep the inner seal head tight. So far, it has worked better than loctite for me. In addition, I put the head of the post minus the saddle clamp in my vise with aluminum soft jaws. I've kinda found a spot to keep it locked in good so I can torque the hell out of the inner seal head. 

Kudos on rebuilding without an inner post bleed. I bleed the post every time as a few milliliters always come out when the inner seal head comes off. It'll make too much of an air gap other wise and I end up having a 5-10mm sag in the post.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

I posted this in the Santa Cruz forum earlier. 
Any advise?

My reverb, which is still relatively new, started making me nervous this weekend.
The speed to come up has been getting slower and slower even though the adjustment on a the remote is all the way to the plus side. 

Then this weekend it wouldn't come up. It seemed like the stroke on the remote was shorter than normal. I checked the pressure (Trailside) and it pegged my shock pump gauge, so its over 300 pounds. 

So I put it back together, and lifted the saddle to extend the post, and it started working again. Still very slow, but working. 

Also, if the post is in a partially compressed position, is it supposed to hold that position if you lift up on the seat? It seems like mine used to, but now will raise if you lift up on it (though I try not to do that).


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

smilinsteve said:


> I posted this in the Santa Cruz forum earlier.
> Any advise?
> 
> My reverb, which is still relatively new, started making me nervous this weekend.
> ...


It is likely that your remote just needs to be bled. If you have the bleed kit that came with it then it is pretty easy.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

scottg said:


> It is likely that your remote just needs to be bled. If you have the bleed kit that came with it then it is pretty easy.


My post came with my bike - with no bleed kit. universal cycles has it for 35 bucks, which looks cheaper than most other places which are at 40-50.

Probably a worthwhile investment, since it will probably not be the last time I need it.


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

smilinsteve said:


> My post came with my bike - with no bleed kit. universal cycles has it for 35 bucks, which looks cheaper than most other places which are at 40-50.
> 
> Probably a worthwhile investment, since it will probably not be the last time I need it.


It's worth having. There are good instructions on the web, and it is much less finicky than bleeding brakes in that if it isn't perfect then it will still work fine.


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## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

Try the bleed but I am willing to bet that is the one o-ring that is on the lower seal head.

I have had to rebuild my reverb 6 times now over the last two and half years and each time, it is the same thing: starts to compress or sags when seated, gradually slower speed when extending and finally, doesn't work.

I just rebuilt mine last night for the third time since Jan. Same o-ring everytime. I get varying lengths of time between builds. Once it was only a month. 

I have been using the Reverb service kits and bought extra kits. Bad thing is now, have these kits with all the other o-rings still intact but am running short of the one that keeps failing.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

Gunnar-man said:


> I have been using the Reverb service kits and bought extra kits. Bad thing is now, have these kits with all the other o-rings still intact but am running short of the one that keeps failing.


Is it a size you can get at a hardware store, or maybe an on line parts house?


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

All the important o-rings are listed in one of my posts a few pages back. I made a picture and listed their sizes. No reason to buy the basic kit other than to get the lower bushing from time to time. All the o-rings can be found online for super cheap.


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## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

+1 for what Laterilu said. I looked back on the detailed diagram he posted and will getting some 2x19 mm seals this week to rectify the situation.


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## sandatos (Feb 18, 2009)

sandatos said:


> hello,
> I've a problem during servicing my reverb. When unscrewing the inner seal head, it's not the nut head that turn but the whole tube so that the seatpost head is unscrewing.
> Seems the inner seal head was tighen at a too high torque...
> Anyone had the same problem ?
> ...


just a follow up of my problem.

I juste received a brand new Reverb seat post from warranty, even if my old post was 4 years old (so no more under warranty). So very nice after sale service from Sram and Bike Components


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

I have a 2013 reverb that has been sitting unused. Went to check air pressure and there was none. Attempted to add air and it won't take air. Any suggestions..


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

smilinsteve said:


> I posted this in the Santa Cruz forum earlier.
> Any advise?
> 
> My reverb, which is still relatively new, started making me nervous this weekend.
> ...


Bleeding the system fixed my problem. Now the speed adjustment is on slow, and its still faster than it was on wide open before the bleed.


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## EatsDirt (Jan 20, 2014)

Any idea what the typical interval is for adding air pressure?

My apology if this has been covered, but 70+ pages is a lot to read. :thumbsup:


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

EatsDirt said:


> Any idea what the typical interval is for adding air pressure?
> 
> My apology if this has been covered, but 70+ pages is a lot to read. :thumbsup:


I've had my reverb for almost 3 years now. My experience has been that there's either zero loss of air when it's operating correctly, or you experience a complete loss of air when an o-ring fails, which signals that it's time for a rebuild. I've never had to periodically add air. I just went almost 2 years between rebuilds. And both times it failed, it was due to the same issue: the inner seal head came loose and unscrewed itself until the o-ring critical for maintaining air pressure popped out.


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## EatsDirt (Jan 20, 2014)

I was hoping that wasn't the case... 

I have a slow leak on a couple month old post. The return speed slowed over the last month, didn't want to return to full height consistently, and had sag at top of stroke. Full remote bleed didn't help. Aired it up and it seems to be working fine, but there was a slight film of oil around air valve/circlip. 

Sign of a time bomb?


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## hssp (Aug 28, 2007)

Tried to tighten the schrader valve core?


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## mattwright999 (Jun 25, 2014)

Anyone have a solution to this problem????

While extended the post has a slight (maybe 3mm) amount of vertical play. You can hear it making a 'clunking' noise when you push is down by hand and it will spring right back up. Aside from this issue it works fine, though when you sit on the seat it has that tiny amount of sink. 

Air pressure has been double checked at 250 psi and everything has been bleed.

Want to know if I can resolve the issue without sending out the post!

I also have the 2014 stealth version


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

So most if not all off us are mounting the right side remote on the left side of the bars so its underneath and easier to use without major hand adjustments. Here's my question, do they make a left side remote I can on the right to get the same under the bar effect on the other side? The reason I ask is because I already have a remote lockout for my SID on the left side underneath and I want my dropper remote on the right side underneath?


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

Yes they make remotes for both sides.


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

bigkat273 said:


> Yes they make remotes for both sides.


Cool but I've been looking on their web site and can't seem to find any evidence of this. Since it pretty expensive to buy a second left side remote do you know if the posts can be ordered with a left remote originally? I'm going to start making some calls to get more info as soon as people start opening shop but I figured the forum never sleeps.

never mind I did some more searching outside the SRAM site and found out much more about what's available. Funny how you can never find what you need on the manufacturers sites these days.

Thanks again


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## daern (Jun 28, 2014)

Hi all,

I recently purchased a used Reverb which had about 1-2" of sag when fully extended. Once below about half length, the sag vanished.

After a lot of Googling and several trial-and-error attempts, I thought I'd document here how I fixed it as it may help others:


First I bled the remote circuit as per the SRAM instructions using the two syringes from the bleed kit (actually, a third party Avid kit, but it worked ok  ) - no change to the sag
I then repressurised the air cylinder, which was a little low on air - no change
I then watched the four "full service" videos on the SRAM page, which while being cool, seemed to need proper parts to sort. "Specialist tools? We don't need no steeenking specialist tools...."

Here's how I finally fixed it. Assuming that the sag was air, I decided to try to get rid of it:


Depressurise the cylinder and, using the remote, fully depress the seatpost. Depressurise the seatpost again! You really don't want any air left in it or you'll get a face full of oil and metal when you remove the top circlip!
Clamp the post into a vice, taking care not to scratch it. I had no aluminium jaws, so used cardboard - worked ok 
Very carefully, remove the small circlip at the top of the post. Even when pressure is removed, it comes out with a pop - be ready to catch the bits!
Remove the circlip, retaining washer and small metal top cap
You should now be able to see the main valve. Using needle-nosed pliers, remove it using the spike on the top.
You can now peer down into the main oil cylinder. I then carefully added enough oil to reach just past the bottom of the piston. (see below)
Replace the piston - it needed a firm wiggle to get it properly seated and pushed down.
Replace the small metal cap, washer and circlip.
Re-bleed the actuator circuit, as you've just emptied half of the oil out of it
Hopefully, you're fixed!

I had to repeat this three times until I found the correct amount of oil to have in the cylinder. Once done, however, the post feels like new and I'm well chuffed. Obviously, you can change any seals you come across, but I didn't bother. I'm going to see how I get on with it over the coming weeks.

This process is miles and miles from the one in the SRAM videos and, ultimately, sucks as it's hard to get all of the air out this way, but it's easy (takes me 10 mins) and needs no specialist tools other than the bleed kit (which you *do* need to bleed the actuator circuit and will need if you remove the top cap like I did).


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## PiroChu (Apr 8, 2004)

*with a shim?*

Sorta silly Q here, but anyone here using a shim with your Reverb? (ie, swapping it between 2 bikes)? 
If so, encountering any long-term issues at all? (eg. clamping force, seatpost slipping, shim much shorter than the inserted-seatpost length, etc)

My Reverb is 30.9mm, and I'm thinking of using it also for my other frame (31.6mm) with a 0.7mm shim (x100mm/length). I don't foresee any issues, but just wanted to double-check here first.









Problem Solvers | New Seatpost Shim Size: 30.9 to 31.6mm

Thanks for your sanity check in advance,
- PiroChu


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

PiroChu said:


> Sorta silly Q here, but anyone here using a shim with your Reverb? (ie, swapping it between 2 bikes)?
> If so, encountering any long-term issues at all? (eg. clamping force, seatpost slipping, shim much shorter than the inserted-seatpost length, etc)
> 
> My Reverb is 30.9mm, and I'm thinking of using it also for my other frame (31.6mm) with a 0.7mm shim. I don't foresee any issues, but just wanted to double-check here first.
> ...


Not specifically with the Reverb, but I do use a shim with a cheaper 30.9mm dropper post that I swap between my Chinese Carbon 29er (31.6mm seat tube) and my GFs MTB (older Giant Cypher 30.9mm seat tube).

I certainly don't have any issues with it slippping in the carbon frame, so I reckon you'll be OK. YMMV though  Just make sure that the shim you get has enough length to provide a decent surface area for your post


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## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

Betarad and Laterilus-thanks for the shortcuts on the procedure.

Once again, my post failed last weekend, though this time I didn't get the sag of and eventually sponginess. It wouldn't return to full extension unless pulled by hand and wouldn't hold air, leaking out the schrader valve.

That is the third time in the last two months and needless to say, i was mad. Came home and starting looking online for a replacement but it seemed like all these hydraulic posts have similar issues.

Again, my lower seal head backed itself out and the oring was the culprit. This time though, I was not in any mood to spend two hours using that leaky bleed kit or deal with the messy internal bleed process so following Betarad's lead, I took most of it apart, got the seal off, replaced the o-ring and topped up the oil in the shaft.

THen took Laterilus' advice on the teflon tape and tightened the hell outta the seal head and put it back together.

Whatya know...it worked out beautifully. No bleeding involved and only took 45mins, start to finish.

Muchas gracias amigos.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

I just rebuilt mine two weeks ago. Two rides on it (Reverb Stealth) and it is blowing out oil again, sagging and not returning.

I have now seen the O ring blow out of the inner seal head twice myself. 
I think I may put a little bit of Blue Locktite. Finicky little things.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

Gunnar-man said:


> Betarad and Laterilus-thanks for the shortcuts on the procedure.
> 
> Once again, my post failed last weekend, though this time I didn't get the sag of and eventually sponginess. It wouldn't return to full extension unless pulled by hand and wouldn't hold air, leaking out the schrader valve.
> 
> ...


Well played Sir....glad I (we) could help.


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## drbeaker (Mar 6, 2014)

I just ordered my new bike, it's coming with a reverb stealth post. After reading this thread, I'm pretty nervous...


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## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

I don't honestly think this thread is representative of every Reverb user. All of my riding friends have reverbs or have ridden with them at one time or another and I am the only one who has had the bad experience. Mine is also one of the oldest ones though, so that is probably a factor.
From what I have seen online, all the other hydraulic posts have had issues too.

I am hoping this teflon tape trick works for awhile now.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

drbeaker said:


> I just ordered my new bike, it's coming with a reverb stealth post. After reading this thread, I'm pretty nervous...


The post seems to work fine when it's working.

Hows this - I see no cause for major concern. It is not like the posts are snapping in half and destroyed. It is a (somewhat) minor annoyance is all. It just seems like in my case at least, the inner seal-head continues to back out ever so slightly, and then the O-ring blows out. I am actually quite surprised at the fact it does back out, considering the torque that is applied to the threads. Nevertheless, it's not a catastrophic failure problem.


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## kzlucas (Apr 12, 2011)

Is it normal for the seat post to rotate a little bit? If I grab my saddle and twist I get about 2 degrees of rotation in either direction. This is not side to side movement but rotational. I would imagine the shaft is keyed in some way to allow it to slide up and down but not rotate. I was told, by my LBS, this is normal and inherrent to all dropper posts. The post did not do this when brand new (<10 rides ago) so I want to confirm if this is normal.

I apologize if this has been covered. I searched the thread for rotating and didn't see what I was looking for.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

*Replacing 3 o-rings w/ x-rings*

I have a thought about the three o-rings sandwiched by the glide rings in the main shaft and the two on the IFP...

I ran into a problem w/ leaking air cans on a Monarch Plus from their first model year of the shock. The solution was to replace the supplied o-ring w/ a Buna quad/x-ring. I actually ended up using a Fox main air can seal ring (proprietary design and I can't describe what it really is, but basically the same idea as an x-ring). Anyway, the thinking was that if oil is getting out of the oil side and into the air side, why not swap out the o-ring w/ x-rings, the same solution for the Monarch leaky air can's main seal?

That said, does anyone have a full service kit handy to take some measurements...or know of the specs on these o-rings in question? I've ordered up an A2 kit, but it's a few days out yet.

TIA

Edit: confession - I didn't read thru the thread since my last post (a year ago?) to see if this has already been suggested.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

Please help me diagnose my problem! I posted the following back in June:



smilinsteve said:


> I posted this in the Santa Cruz forum earlier.
> Any advise?
> 
> My reverb, which is still relatively new, started making me nervous this weekend.
> ...


Bleeding fixed it for a short time, but it quickly went back to being very slow to come up. Then this weekend, it wouldn't come up at all. If I would push the button and lift up on it it would spring back down. Luckily, my legs are short enough that with it stuck down, I can raise the lower part of the post up and have my seat at the right height. 

I rode most of the day this way, then tested the post and it came up! Slow, but it was suddenly working again.

What kind of problem would cause the post to malfunction intermittently like that?


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

smilinsteve said:


> Please help me diagnose my problem! I posted the following back in June:
> 
> Bleeding fixed it for a short time, but it quickly went back to being very slow to come up. Then this weekend, it wouldn't come up at all. If I would push the button and lift up on it it would spring back down. Luckily, my legs are short enough that with it stuck down, I can raise the lower part of the post up and have my seat at the right height.
> 
> ...


Sounds like a full bleed and a line/barb swap would fix things. IMO, seems like you've got air in the line. It's moving around/reacting differently based on position/heat/the whims of the gos/etc. and thus giving you weird action.

Otherwise:Literalis is spot on with all his info. My first gen Stealth model (which I did a half seal change about a year ago) finally got the dreaded sink an inch thing going on. Turns out when My mechanic; ahem - fire that guy...) serviced it before, I, ahem, I mean he managed to gouge up the inner shaft a bit. It finally manked up the inner head seals.

Pulled all apart, smoothed the inner shaft as much as I could (very fine grit wet/dry paper and some clear nail polish to fill the gaps) and swapped some o-rings, and it's golden now. Since that first service, I've (i mean my mechanic) has picked up some vice soft jaws and other proper bits to ensure the smooth slidy bits don't get screwed up again...

As well, we've ordered up a new poppet/inner shaft kit. Whenever the post starts acting up again, that'll get swapped in. Could the inner seals be beefed up? I suppose so, but then the smoothness and action might be compromised.

Yes, these posts can be a PITA - but the ease of working on them and getting parts coupled with the functionality makes the pain worthwhile. Meh. I have one of my oooooold Gravity Dropper posts kicking about for just these sorts of things. Not ideal, but at least it can be swapped in as a pinch hitter when one of the Reverbs is down.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

yeah I suspected air in the line, since the first bleed seemed to help, but then the problem came back. When I bled last time, I was careful to flow back and forth many times from one syringe to the other, until I saw no more bubbles. But I guess that air can stay lodged in a little corner somewhere and never come out. Is there a better way to bleed than what they show on the Sram video? Maybe double bleed, first with the post higher than the lever, and then visa versa, to try and free any trapped air?


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

Another symptom: My speed adjustment is fully open. When I turn it toward slower, the plunger button slowly moves in. Is this normal? Then I try to actuate the post, and it seems there is not enough throw left in the trigger to open the valve (or whatever is supposed to happen).


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## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

That sounds like it is that one 0 ring on the lower seal head.

WHen my post has failed, it would start with the spongy, 2cm drop and then gradually drop and not return to full extension. But this last time, it would not return quickly and progressively got slower until it stopped extending but no spongy drop like before.

I was hesitant to pull it apart because of the bleeding and rebuild process. So, I decided to see what I could get away with and all I did was take it apart and replace the o-ring (which was bulging out again, just like every other time)

I then filled the inner tube that the shaft fit into with a little oil and put the shaft back in. Slapped a couple wraps of teflon tape on the threads and tightened the hell out of that inner seal head. 

It has been working fine and no bleed needed. I am hoping that Teflon tape will keep the inner seal head snug and not allow it to back out, allowing that o ring to pop out and fail.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

Gunnar-man said:


> That sounds like it is that one 0 ring on the lower seal head.
> 
> WHen my post has failed, it would start with the spongy, 2cm drop and then gradually drop and not return to full extension. But this last time, it would not return quickly and progressively got slower until it stopped extending but no spongy drop like before.
> 
> ...


What happens to the O ring? Does it wear out, or does it come off? I've got the service manual. Is there more than one O ring on the inner seal head? Are there some good instructions somewhere on how to do this? It looks like the service manual has a bunch of unnecessary steps if all you want to do is get to the inner seal head.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

smilinsteve said:


> What happens to the O ring? Does it wear out, or does it come off? I've got the service manual. Is there more than one O ring on the inner seal head? Are there some good instructions somewhere on how to do this? It looks like the service manual has a bunch of unnecessary steps if all you want to do is get to the inner seal head.


You'll still have to open things up of course, but you can skip some of the steps. And as long as you are careful not to move the IFP or the internal piston around or lose oil, you should be good to go.

One of the pics from Literalus shows it - if the seal head backs out enough, the o-ring will get pooched out - that's what screws things up in some cases. May or may not be your exact issue.

The SRAM service doc and their service vids on youtube are pretty good. Just skip the stuff you don't need. Fix/replace what needs doing, get riding again.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Smilinsteve, I've read over your issues in these posts. I'm 95% positive your remote and hose are fine. It's all in the post. Yes, these o-rings go bad over time. You have something leaking by your o-rings that separate the oil chamber and air. 

As for your second question, yes, you can get to the inner seal head without doing a full rebuild. There is a catch though, you will have to remove the lower seal head to get to it. This will require some aluminum soft jaws and a vise to hold the piston shaft while you unscrew the lower seal head. 

Change all the o-rings on the lower seal head and the piston shaft. 99% chance that is your problem area. Be careful removing the lower seal head and piston shaft and you won't have to add oil or bleed the system. When reinstalling the inner seal head, put a little Teflon tape on the threads and torque it as hard as you can without marring up the post. Get that thing tight! You should be good to go from there.


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## peanutaxis (Aug 19, 2011)

smilinsteve said:


> Another symptom: My speed adjustment is fully open. When I turn it toward slower, the plunger button slowly moves in. Is this normal? Then I try to actuate the post, and it seems there is not enough throw left in the trigger to open the valve (or whatever is supposed to happen).


Yeah there's air in the post system (as opposed to the lever system). Under certain circumstances it is under vacuum which pulls the poppet valve down which pulls your lever in.


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## gp77 (Aug 14, 2014)

Hi guys I was wondering if someone could help me with reverb rebuild kits.

I have a reverb stealth 2013.

My LBS tells me that the only Reverb rebuild kit that the Australian SRAM distributor brings in is the standard A2 kit (11.6818.021.000) and that this will be OK for rebuilding the stealth as well.
I have noticed that stealth specific kits are available (11.6818.022.000) from bikeman and others, but the LBS will be a fair bit cheaper once exchange rates/postage is added.

The question is, will the standard A2 kit do the job?


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## peanutaxis (Aug 19, 2011)

smilinsteve said:


> yeah I suspected air in the line, since the first bleed seemed to help, but then the problem came back. When I bled last time, I was careful to flow back and forth many times from one syringe to the other, until I saw no more bubbles. But I guess that air can stay lodged in a little corner somewhere and never come out. Is there a better way to bleed than what they show on the Sram video? Maybe double bleed, first with the post higher than the lever, and then visa versa, to try and free any trapped air?


Before opening the entire post I would try something else first:

About once a year my post gets air in the post system. Rather than opening the ENTIRE post up, all I have to do is remove the TOP of the post, poppet valve, and then I refill with a little fluid and then put back together. A little earlier in this thread someone posted instructions on how to do this.


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## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

Laterilus said:


> Smilinsteve, I've read over your issues in these posts. I'm 95% positive your remote and hose are fine. It's all in the post. Yes, these o-rings go bad over time. You have something leaking by your o-rings that separate the oil chamber and air.
> 
> As for your second question, yes, you can get to the inner seal head without doing a full rebuild. There is a catch though, you will have to remove the lower seal head to get to it. This will require some aluminum soft jaws and a vise to hold the piston shaft while you unscrew the lower seal head.
> 
> Change all the o-rings on the lower seal head and the piston shaft. 99% chance that is your problem area. Be careful removing the lower seal head and piston shaft and you won't have to add oil or bleed the system. When reinstalling the inner seal head, put a little Teflon tape on the threads and torque it as hard as you can without marring up the post. Get that thing tight! You should be good to go from there.


I don't have the alu soft jaws but have used small slats of pine moulding instead (2.5"x0.5") on either side of the top of the post head, careful not to touch the strain relief. A little more of a pain getting everything lined up in the vice but allows you to tighten the seal head down without damaging anything.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

peanutaxis said:


> Before opening the entire post I would try something else first:
> 
> About once a year my post gets air in the post system. Rather than opening the ENTIRE post up, all I have to do is remove the TOP of the post, poppet valve, and then I refill with a little fluid and then put back together. A little earlier in this thread someone posted instructions on how to do this.


I like to start with the simpler options, so I might try this, but first I have an even simpler strategy. I'm taking it to the bike shop.  It came with the bike I bought 4 months ago, and has been pretty lightly used. I'm hoping its covered under warranty.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

smilinsteve said:


> I like to start with the simpler options, so I might try this, but first I have an even simpler strategy. I'm taking it to the bike shop.  It came with the bike I bought 4 months ago, and has been pretty lightly used. I'm hoping its covered under warranty.


Yeah, should be. 
But hey smilinsteve, I'm gonna order up some quad ring seals and run an exp on it. Las... has sent me a HUGE amount of beta on the topic of a rebuild. So if it works, i can get you a set of the quad ring seals hopefully making that part more reliable. I have 3 Reverbs... so probably will order at least 5 of each size.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

Well, the boys at Mojo Wheels have my post. I talked to the mechanic who sounds like he has fixed a bunch of these. He said it might need a bleed like Scrublover said:


scrublover said:


> Sounds like a full bleed and a line/barb swap would fix things. IMO, seems like you've got air in the line. It's moving around/reacting differently based on position/heat/the whims of the gos/etc. and thus giving you weird action.


They said the first step, however is to call the serial number into SRAM, and they might just replace it . He said that if the bleed doesn't work the seal change normally will. He started telling me about what goes wrong with KS posts, Joplins, Control posts etc, and it sounds like the Reverb is at least easier to repair usually than most of the others.



Pau11y said:


> Yeah, should be.
> But hey smilinsteve, I'm gonna order up some quad ring seals and run an exp on it. Las... has sent me a HUGE amount of beta on the topic of a rebuild. So if it works, i can get you a set of the quad ring seals hopefully making that part more reliable. I have 3 Reverbs... so probably will order at least 5 of each size.


Sounds like an interesting experiment :thumbsup: If it works you can start selling your own brand of "upgrade kit".

I wonder if Push will ever get into the dropper post improvement biz.


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## EatsDirt (Jan 20, 2014)

I just sent mine (owned for 4 mos) back to Art's for warranty work... ended up with a new one at my door within a week and a half. Glad SRAM appears to have a solid warranty support program and the guys at Art's came through big!

Curious to how quad seals pan out... as well as any other tweaks to get these things hassle free. Sounds like tearing into these things is inevitable.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

The shop called and said they fixed my post with a bleed. That is what I was hoping they would not say. I have my doubts.


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## Henrik J (Apr 15, 2011)

I am looking for a new Rock Shox Reverb dropper with external cable and have found a 2013 model on discount. But is there any difference from the 2014 or 2015 model other than they have a higher price ??


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Henrik J said:


> I am looking for a new Rock Shox Reverb dropper with external cable and have found a 2013 model on discount. But is there any difference from the 2014 or 2015 model other than they have a higher price ??


Ask the seller for the serial number and call RS to see which version...As or A2. Steer clear of A1s.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

smilinsteve said:


> Sounds like an interesting experiment :thumbsup: If it works you can start selling your own brand of "upgrade kit".


No go on this exp. One of the steps require you to"slip"on the lower seal head onto the main shaft sitting in oil in the inner tube and it needs to be pretty stationary in its position in this inner tube. The quad ring seal in there make it damn near impossible to do this.


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## Henrik J (Apr 15, 2011)

Pau11y said:


> Ask the seller for the serial number and call RS to see which version...As or A2. Steer clear of A1s.


Can someone help me if this one is a GO or NO GO ??


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## dbabuser (Jan 5, 2004)

Anyone with a 125mm travel reverb for sale for parts, let me know. I need a new upper post/ stanchion after a slow speed crash dented mine.


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## Tiago Taipina (Nov 14, 2013)

I bought the 2015 version in 125/380, from Bike24 let's see if it works well.


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## need4gforce (Sep 12, 2009)

Can someone measure there reverb stealth that has the 150mm version in a 380. I am trying to find out the length from middle of seat rail down to bottom of the dropper lip (the area that does not let you push it down further into the frame) 

Thank you!


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## hssp (Aug 28, 2007)

*Sv: RockShox Reverb Thread*



need4gforce said:


> Can someone measure there reverb stealth that has the 150mm version in a 380. I am trying to find out the length from middle of seat rail down to bottom of the dropper lip (the area that does not let you push it down further into the frame)
> 
> Thank you!


You need at least 19cm exposed post for 125mm, so I guess 21.5cm?


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## xhailofgunfirex (Jun 25, 2008)

Crashed yesterday and the hose came out of remote and the seatpost was all the way down. Is the bleed procedure any different if the post is all the way down versus all them way up?


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

xhailofgunfirex said:


> Crashed yesterday and the hose came out of remote and the seatpost was all the way down. Is the bleed procedure any different if the post is all the way down versus all them way up?


Same procedure.

Similar thing happened to a riding buddy, the remote barb broke but his seat was in the up position. I'm starting to not like the hydraulic remote, too fragile.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

the-one1 said:


> Same procedure.
> 
> Similar thing happened to a riding buddy, the remote barb broke but his seat was in the up position. I'm starting to not like the hydraulic remote, too fragile.


The way the hose attaches is actually very flimsy in my mind. Fine thread barb, threading into a semi-rigid tubing. Why they do not use a coarse thread, or better yet, an actual hydraulic attachment is beyond me. I know a hydraulic attachment would not allow as simple of hose removal from the frame, but you shouldn't have to constantly be pulling the hose out of the frame!


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## EricD4 (May 11, 2008)

So, how do you keep the big nut located at the telescoping portion on the seat post tight? It seams that I need to tighten about every 3 or so rides.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

EricD4 said:


> So, how do you keep the big nut located at the telescoping portion on the seat post tight? It seams that I need to tighten about every 3 or so rides.


Blue Loctite? Or, smear silicon sealant on the threads of the lower post, spin on the top cap, then wipe off excess?


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## VQuick (May 14, 2013)

For mounting to a bike with Shimano Deore shifters, what would you guys recommend--right or left lever? I guess the MMX thing won't work, but I'd like it on the left side--just not sure whether top or bottom mounting makes more sense. Also, any significant difference between the 2013 and 2014 models in terms of internals? Is is just the Connectamajig thing? Thanks!


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## BrianBak (Apr 11, 2011)

Hi 

I have a 3 months old reverb 125mm stroke 380mm long. From day one there has been some sticktion that needs to be overcome in the very first part of the stroke if the saddle has not been dropped for 5 minutes or more. I have greased the bushings between the inner and outer tube, but that did not help very much. I weigh 85kg and have tried the pressure in the range 180-250psi without any noticeable change in the sticktion.

I am thinking that the sticktion comes from the air piston not having good enough lubrication. 

Before I disassemble it I would like to know if any of you have had the same problems with sticktion and even better have a solution to the sticktion problem


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## GordieNZ (Aug 23, 2009)

Wondering if anyone can assist. I've just purchased a second hand stealth reverb and turns out I made a mistake with the post size. I got a 34.9mm rather than a 31.6mm and unfort can't return it. Are parts available to convert it to the correct size or are all the parts specific?


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## Acadian (Jan 1, 2004)

the part you need is a new post in the correct size. 



GordieNZ said:


> Wondering if anyone can assist. I've just purchased a second hand stealth reverb and turns out I made a mistake with the post size. I got a 34.9mm rather than a 31.6mm and unfort can't return it. Are parts available to convert it to the correct size or are all the parts specific?


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## GordieNZ (Aug 23, 2009)

I'm stoked, just found out all I need is a new outer/lower which are all compatible. Problem solved


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## stepneo (Dec 21, 2010)

Looking for some insight on an odd Reverb issue:

I rebuilt my 125mm Reverb using the 4 part Rock Shox Reverb tech video on YouTube, and full rebuild kit, which turned out perfectly the first time around. All except for, the IFP had moved a bit during the rebuild, and the post was only getting 100mm of travel. To move that IFP, i had to run through the rebuild again. This time, however, when airing up the post to 250psi, (part 4 video), the post would pull itself in, or drops in travel as if it's a negative air chamber. Odd, since the first rebuild when perfectly. Thinking i missed something along the way during the 2nd rebuild to get that IFP moved, i regrouped, started over, and went for a 3rd rebuild. All good so far. Time to air it up. Same issue. The post pulls itself down in travel when pressurizing. Let all of the air out, and the post goes back to 125mm. Perfect bleed on the remote all three builds. Oil heights are good. All bushings and o rings are new. I have yet to find any documentation on something like this. 

Thanks for the look.


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## peanutaxis (Aug 19, 2011)

Hi,

Here is the internal diagrams:
http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/rockshox-reverb-how-works-929224.html

I think if this is happening then you must be getting air into the internal hydraulics.

......on further thought, I think the problem is that you have air in the _inner_ hydraulic chamber. When you pump your post up, it compresses this air and the shaft piston moves in. When you pump your post down, that air expands and pushes the shaft piston out. All you can do is rebuild and check particularly the shaft piston seals.


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## stepneo (Dec 21, 2010)

Perfect. thanks for the link peanutaxis. The diagrams really help me to understand how the system actually works. The issue has to be a bubble, air, or some gap in the oil in the chamber. Which is compressed when i pressure up the post, and drops the travel. The 1st of the 3 rebuilds went perfectly, including bleeding the remote, less the lack of travel. I must've have gotten that oil right w/o an air pocket of some sort. Given the diagrams, i'll give the build another go. Have you tried a rebuild with an oil other than the hydraulic fluid from RS?


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

stepneo,

The problem you describe has plagued me as well a couple of times. Oh, how I've wracked my brain over and over trying to figure out what went wrong and how that could occur. It is weird indeed. I even knew how the Reverb worked well before the person posted those diagrams (which are pretty cool looking).

Whatever causes it, I personally think there is something inherently wrong with the Rockshox method of bleeding. I came up with my own procedure and I've never had that sucking in issue while pumping ever since. Gonna be somewhat tough to explain, but here goes nothing:

First, no need for any of the Rockshox special bleeding tools. Nada. The only one that is semi useful is the IFP setting tube (that black tube with the markings on it to push in the IFP).

Secondly, Exact depths of the IFP are not important. The only depth that is important is that you put the IFP at the depth of your post's dropping/extension distance. For example, if you have a 125mm post, you have to make sure you at least push the IFP into the stanchion tube 125mm. Preferably, go past it just to make sure. It is easier. For the regular reverb, this means pushing the IFP towards the saddle clamp end and then the opposite applies for the Stealth. Look at that diagram from the thread that peanutaxis posted and this will make sense.

Lastly, do not remove the poppet valve unless you need to replace the o-rings on it (this only applies for the regular, not the stealth).

Ok, as for the procedure (regular reverb), remove the inner seal head, piston shaft and IFP tube. Dump the oil. Flip the Reverb upside down and put it into a vise (with aluminum soft jaws). Now, when you clamp it into a vise, make sure you setup something under the poppet valve that will actuate the valve (push it in) and keep it open during the procedure. I use a cassette tool with the pin in the middle.



Next, pour a small pool of oil about an inch deep into the stanchion. Shine a light down there and pop all the bubbles with a zip tie.

Now push in the IFP. Do it slowly so you don't trap air on the backside of the IFP. Push the IFP all the way into the oil. Again, it needs to be as deep or deeper than the extension limit of the post. Pop all bubbles again.

Next step is to install the IFP tube. Once that is installed, fill the IFP tube to the top with oil. I keep pouring to make sure it pushes out any air bubbles.

Make sure the inner seal head is already installed on the piston shaft and carefully install the piston shaft into the IFP tube. Only push it in to the point of the o-ring engaging. Now slide the inner seal head down the piston shaft and start to screw it into place. The inner seal head will push the piston shaft into the correct starting position. Since you have the poppet valve open, the piston shaft can move freely down the IFP tube as it displaces a small amount of oil. This is also why you want to push the IFP a little bit past your posts extension point.

Once you've screwed the inner seal head on all the way, carefully unscrew it again. DO NOT move the piston shaft! Make sure that stays stationary. Once the inner seal head is unscrewed, pour out the remaining oil that got into the air chamber while you were bleeding the post. Screw the inner seal head back on and torque it as tight as you can. Again, do not move the piston shaft during this portion.

That's it. it is bled. I always test the Reverb out at this point before completely putting it back together. Just screw the lower seal head back onto the bottom of the piston shaft and pump up the post. It should hold up your weight if you lean on it (be careful since it isn't fully built back up). it should also go up and down (the piston shaft) when you work it with the remote. Done and done. I've done this rebuild method many times over with no problems.

If you have a stealth, the procedure is going to be very similar, just upside down and without being able to push the poppet valve. Break down the post to where you have the stanchion, IFP tube and IFP installed. Make sure the IFP is pushed just a little bit past the threads of the stanchion tube where the inner seal head threads in. Change your o-rings that have gone bad and fill 'er up with oil. Pour the oil into the IFP tube and let it spill over the sides, onto the top of the IFP and up to the threads of the inner seal head. Have the inner seal head installed onto the piston shaft. Push the piston shaft into the IFP tube to the o-ring, then screw on the inner seal head to push it into its final place.

Finish putting back everything together on the stealth at that point and you are good to go.


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## peanutaxis (Aug 19, 2011)

Hi stepneo,

Yep, you are getting air in behind the shaft piston. My post has the opposite problem in that it gradually collects air behind the ifp leading to the seat being spongy.

Do you have the correct bleed tools etc? Because I think the most likely reason you're having this problem is that you're getting air in through the poppet valve while bleeding. I actually don't have a bleed tool myself, I just chuck a pinched rubber tube in. And I don;t have a ifp depth tool, I just use wooden skewers to push the ifp down 125mm (for a 125mm post). Otherwise I follow the RS procedure. (Yes I just use dot 5.1 from the hardware store for both the post and lever)

I can see how Laterilus' method works, but to me it seems unnecessarily complicated; the RS method should work fine. Not sure if you want to try the standard method again or his.


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## J_K (Jan 18, 2010)

What's the diameter of the hose on the stealth Reverb?


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## stepneo (Dec 21, 2010)

Success! Reverb rebuild complete. I ended up going with a combination of Laterilus' method and Rock Shox method. Infidelity have all of the tools, bleed kit, and oil for this, so, had to make it happen. Since i had already installed the poppet o rings, i used a small bolt to suppress the poppet and clamped the Reverb in the aluminum soft jaws of the vise. I used the RS method of filling the stanchion and IFP tube with oil, and then installing the IFP to the 125mm height. Popping any/all bubbles with a zip tie along the way. 

This part posted by Laterilus was the key:

"Make sure the inner seal head is already installed on the piston shaft and carefully install the piston shaft into the IFP tube. Only push it in to the point of the o-ring engaging. Now slide the inner seal head down the piston shaft and start to screw it into place. The inner seal head will push the piston shaft into the correct starting position. Since you have the poppet valve open, the piston shaft can move freely down the IFP tube as it displaces a small amount of oil. This is also why you want to push the IFP a little bit past your posts extension point.

Once you've screwed the inner seal head on all the way, carefully unscrew it again. DO NOT move the piston shaft! Make sure that stays stationary. Once the inner seal head is unscrewed, pour out the remaining oil that got into the air chamber while you were bleeding the post. Screw the inner seal head back on and torque it as tight as you can. Again, do not move the piston shaft during this portion."

I aired the post up to 250psi, and, this time, it didn't drop in travel, as it did before. Good sign. Moving forward, i used the RS remote bleed video as a guide to get the remote bled. All good. The Reverb is now installed and working well. Now to get the bike out on the trail and see how the Reverb performs.

Thank you all who posted.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

After reading the reverb here it seems it has lost of problems compared to dropper seat with steel cable. 

How durable is the new version of reverb and often you have to rebleed it?


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## mega_kas (Dec 29, 2008)

Hiya - I have a brand new reverb stealth. Very impressed with it - lots smoother and more solid quality feeling than my 4 year old KS i900r.

However.....

When I sit on the post there is like 1mm vertical play and an audible click / clunk as it compresses 1mm. I thought it was the seat rails or clamp at first but I can see the post stanchion move a tiny amount down past the seal. It's less play than the side to side which I believe they all have.

Is this 'click' when apply downwards pressure normal? Is the vertical movement of 1-2mm normal?

Cheers!


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## asmolow (Oct 26, 2009)

mega_kas said:


> Hiya - I have a brand new reverb stealth. Very impressed with it - lots smoother and more solid quality feeling than my 4 year old KS i900r.
> 
> However.....
> 
> ...


I'm not sure if it's normal, but the same thing happens with my reverb. It has actually gotten worse after a few months of use.


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Mine does that too. It's the snap ring on the bottom of the post. The inner tube sits on top of the snap ring. There is just a very slight amount of void between the two. 
I was thinking of wrapping the snap ring in something to snug it up, but too lazy as its not harming it in anyway that I can see. 

Reverb Stealth


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## mega_kas (Dec 29, 2008)

thanks both

It's annoying me but good to hear that my post probably isn't defective. I might drop SRAM a line to see if it's normal and if they have any ideas.

For now I will just focus on riding my bike and when it comes time to service the post i'll have a tinker and see if I can lessen the annoying click.


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## jumb5150 (Aug 13, 2014)

smilinsteve said:


> Another symptom: My speed adjustment is fully open. When I turn it toward slower, the plunger button slowly moves in. Is this normal? Then I try to actuate the post, and it seems there is not enough throw left in the trigger to open the valve (or whatever is supposed to happen).


This happened to me this weekend on a newly installed reverb. I shortened the line and experienced your symptoms. All that needed to be done is a remote bleed. Problem solved.


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## jumb5150 (Aug 13, 2014)

so got mine from CRC this weekend at a very good price. $250 . But didn't come in a box or a bleed kit so I had to get my own. What year is mine if it came with a black collar and black adjuster knoB? Also, whats up with them not including the bleed kit?


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Could've been an OEM take off.

Yours is the newer style. But I think all bleed kits are the same the fluid or connectors did not change for the bleed, the connection from the post to the XLOC did though.

Rockshox Bleed Kit For Reverb / Xloc > Accessories > Tools > Bleed Kits | Jenson USA
Rockshox Reverb Hydraulic Fluid 120ML > Components > Saddles and Seatposts > Seatpost Small Parts | Jenson USA

That is what you would need, however if you do not want to go through the trouble, my shop here bled mine for about $80 with a 90 day warranty on the service (had to bring it back once). So if you are going to do this only once it might be worth it to look at what your LBS will charge.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

80 bucks to do a bleed seems very high! 
It's easier than a brake bleed. I think my shop charges $20 for a brake bleed (but I never paid for one).
You can get a complete bleed kit for 40-50 bucks and might end up using it every few months. I think its well worth the investment.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Correction, the $80 was for a overhaul not just a bleed.


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## Dirttrackin280h (Aug 10, 2008)

I received my brand new 125/420mm Reverb (non Stealth model) in the mail today. After installation, I feel a slight side to side movement of the saddle. It's very minimal and cannot be felt while riding the bike, but it is noticeable when using my hands. Other than that, the post works excellent. Do all posts have a slight side to side play in them, or did I get a dud? Sorry if this has been discussed already in this thread, but I don't feel like reading through 20 pages.


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## JNG (Oct 4, 2011)

A little side to side wobble is normal. Nothing to worry about.


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## Danielmessem (Oct 1, 2013)

supercusty said:


> my wife has hers fully insterted into her mojo
> 
> as like to fuilly instert mine into her mojo


mine only goes in half way


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## Tiago Taipina (Nov 14, 2013)

I have a problem on my reverb, since the last weekend, it has lost all the air, and if I pump it again, doesn't matter.

Any sugestions? Should i RMA it?


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## in the trees (Mar 24, 2005)

What are the specific differences between A1 and A2 versions of the Reverb Stealth? I know that it is a model year differences (different levers parts, etc) but what else? Can I add the Connectamajig to older post models?


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## dbabuser (Jan 5, 2004)

Laterilus said:


> stepneo,
> 
> The problem you describe has plagued me as well a couple of times. Oh, how I've wracked my brain over and over trying to figure out what went wrong and how that could occur. It is weird indeed. I even knew how the Reverb worked well before the person posted those diagrams (which are pretty cool looking).


Thanks for posting that - I've rebuild a couple posts that have had the same issue, and knew I couldn't have been the only one to have the post suck down when airing it up.


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## Lambow (Sep 29, 2013)

*Reverb stops working in wet or foggy conditions*

My Reverb Stealth seat post gets really sluggishand eventually stops working in wet or foggy conditions. Any one else havesimilar problems? Any ideas on a fix?

Thanks Lambow


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## ein86 (Feb 2, 2010)

Question...my Reverb (non stealth) will compress about 23mm if I push on it or when I sit on it. I've bled it 3 times (no air either of the last 2 times) and I checked the air pressure on the bottom, which was low but is now at 250psi. One thing I didn't check is if it does this at any height, just fully extended... Its a couple of years old and has the black collar, if that helps.
Thanks


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

It needs to be overhauled. The air and oil mixed, thus the 23mm sinking


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## ein86 (Feb 2, 2010)

the-one1 said:


> It needs to be overhauled. The air and oil mixed, thus the 23mm sinking


That's kind of what I was expecting, thanks!


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## fajnalowiec (Nov 5, 2014)

This is my 1st post here, so 'hi everyone'. I'm just in the middle of service my 31.6/380 reverb seatpost. Everything is going smooth except 1 thing. At some point while assembling IFP tool is used:






and that's how it looks like:
Rock Shox Reverb IFP Height Tool

Unfortunately I don't have IFP tool, but I can manage to push my IFP inside of the tube without the problem. The question is "how far IFP tool should be pushed inside the tube?". Anyone can provide the distance between bottom of this tool and the line which says 125mm?


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

Laterilus said:


> One of the great things about the Reverb, in my humble opinion, is that you CAN fix this thing on the cheap. A new Reverb will cost $300-$400, but the service parts are extremely cheap and once you do get the tools that you need, the Reverb will last basically forever as long as you keep up with the maintenance (which is only o-rings, bushings and oil).


Sorry, slightly off topic - but trying to decide between RS Reverb and KS Lev ( both internally routed versions ).

KS pro: cable instead of hydro remote.
KS neg: seat clamp issue - hard to tell how serious this is ... a few page thread, with a good number of "me too's" seem to indicate at least a minor design flaw

Is this issue with reverb maintenace shared by all posts? In other words- I would be doing something similar with the KS's seals every year ... but maybe its not as well documented? ( There is no 60 page thread on rebuilding the KS Lev ... is that because it doesn't need it, or because there are way more RS posts out there )

Anyone with an informed opinion?


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

slcpunk said:


> Sorry, slightly off topic - but trying to decide between RS Reverb and KS Lev ( both internally routed versions ).
> 
> KS pro: cable instead of hydro remote.
> KS neg: seat clamp issue - hard to tell how serious this is ... a few page thread, with a good number of "me too's" seem to indicate at least a minor design flaw
> ...


There is a thread on rebuilding the LEV, but the original poster has detailed it so well with step by step instructions and photos that there isn't much further discussion required. I did rebuild a Reverb a couple of years ago and I remember it being more difficult than the Lev for some reason, but it's been a long time so I can't say for sure.

I don't know what the issue is with the Lev seatclamp because mine is great - as is the clamp on the Reverb. I know I hate the hydraulic remote on the Reverb, especially halfway through a 4 hour race when it broke and I was unable to raise the post and was forced to stand while climbing the rest of the day. In my mind the LEV is a superior post. I don't understand Rockshox' affinity for hydraulic remotes - I have one on my shock as well and it just seems to add unnecessary complexity to an on/off switch.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

Thanks - that's the type of input I was looking for.

In case you care: seat clamp issue thread here

I think I found that LEV rebuild thread, thanks. (not sure how I missed it before )

Totally agree on the hyrdo remote ... overkill.

I'll still listen if someone wants to defend the Reverb over the KS!


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Lots of people jump on SRAM for the hydraulic remote. Their arguments against the remote make sense. I completely understand them. I however still prefer the hydraulic remote over a cable. The cable system eventually wears out. It starts to feel a bit gritty. It also doesn't feel as smooth and it also feels like more effort (and my attention) are needed to make it work. The reverb remote can be placed under the bar in the absolute perfect spot. I don't have to think about it nor do I have to lift my thumb above the bar to push it. It is also very easy to push which also makes it easier (in my opinion) to feather the remote to find another riding spot that isn't completely down or completely up, and I can control the speed better with it. Just my take. The cable system also works and I like it; just not as much as the reverb remote.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

Laterilus said:


> Lots of people jump on SRAM for the hydraulic remote. Their arguments against the remote make sense. I completely understand them. I however still prefer the hydraulic remote over a cable. The cable system eventually wears out. It starts to feel a bit gritty. It also doesn't feel as smooth and it also feels like more effort (and my attention) are needed to make it work. The reverb remote can be placed under the bar in the absolute perfect spot. I don't have to think about it nor do I have to lift my thumb above the bar to push it. It is also very easy to push which also makes it easier (in my opinion) to feather the remote to find another riding spot that isn't completely down or completely up, and I can control the speed better with it. Just my take. The cable system also works and I like it; just not as much as the reverb remote.


Interesting counter point ... now I really don't know what direction to go in!

I test rode a bike with a KS and I had a hard time activating it. ( but it could have been poor setup/cable tension) Never had that problem with the reverbs I tried.

thanks again


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Slcpunk, this is the same issue I've had with the KS dropper posts. I currently use a KS dropzone. It is a great dropper post. I am very pleased with the performance and especially at its price. I am using this post because I needed a setback saddle clamp. I pleaded with SRAM to make a set back clamp for the reverb, but they won't do it. It could be done though. You can unscrew the saddle clamp head from the telescoping post. It would be easy for them to make a setback clamp head to screw back onto the post. 


Anyway, I thought the KS remote was nice, but the first thing I noticed was the increased pressure needed to activate the post. Getting the housing routed as straight as possible is critical to remove as much of that friction as you can. This isn't necessary for the reverb. That is a huge plus for the reverb remote in my opinion. Secondly, I notice that I am changing the cable for the KS every couple of months. Every time you use the remote, it opens up the cable to the elements. It gets very dusty in my area so dirt gets into the cable system very easily. I could go a full year without needing to bleed a reverb remote. Lastly, it is difficult in my opinion to set up the KS remote in a position where I am not lifting my thumb above or at the same level as the grip. It isn't that bad, but I do feel a momentary small loss of control as I prefer to not have to move my hand position to activate the post. Small details that I can overlook, but it does still make me prefer the reverb remote to cable systems. 

I think will try to put the new Specialized cable remote on my KS. They made that shifter looking remote. That should protect the cable better, give more leverage and put the remote button in a better position.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

Laterilus said:


> I think will try to put the new Specialized cable remote on my KS. They made that shifter looking remote. That should protect the cable better, give more leverage and put the remote button in a better position.


Interesting idea. I noodled around about the spesh remote lever ... came across a number of people that ended up just using an old front derailleur shifter instead. ( many complaints about spesh remote breaking, and some people happy to have replaced with KS one! ) Funny.

I'm so on the fence ... basically the KS is backordered, and I thought I wanted it ... but maybe I should just get the RS now instead of waiting. first world problems!


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

Laterilus - one more question - would having the stealth version change your mind on the remote? I'm not 100% clear, but it seems maybe you would have to bleed the remote each time you did any service, because you would have to break the line to remove the post ( maybe not? maybe you could do the basic service w/out breaking the hydro seal? )


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## peanutaxis (Aug 19, 2011)

You have to re-bleed when you service anyway. The only difference, then, is that you would have to unscrew the line.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

peanutaxis said:


> You have to re-bleed when you service anyway. The only difference, then, is that you would have to unscrew the line.


Oh, I was confused - I thought the two bleeds were independant on the regular reverb. ( post bleed vs. remote bleed ). You're saying no matter what when doing service, the remote has to be bled too?


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## peanutaxis (Aug 19, 2011)

slcpunk said:


> Oh, I was confused - I thought the two bleeds were independant on the regular reverb. ( post bleed vs. remote bleed ). You're saying no matter what when doing service, the remote has to be bled too?


The poppet valve connects the two hydraulic systems. Once you crack the poppet valve, you have opened... well, both systems, so you'll have to re-bleed.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

slcpunk said:


> Oh, I was confused - I thought the two bleeds were independant on the regular reverb. ( post bleed vs. remote bleed ). You're saying no matter what when doing service, the remote has to be bled too?


Absolutely not true on mandatory bleeding (of post OR remote). I've now performed 2 rebuilds on my post (about once a year), with complete success, without bleeding anything. My reports on exactly what I did are in the archives of this thread.


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## peanutaxis (Aug 19, 2011)

Betarad said:


> Absolutely not true on mandatory bleeding (of post OR remote). I've now performed 2 rebuilds on my post (about once a year), with complete success, without bleeding anything. My reports on exactly what I did are in the archives of this thread.


If you didn't bleed the internals of the post then you didn't rebuild. And if you didn't bleed the lever then you didn't remove the poppet valve, which means you didn't rebuild.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

I did what was necessary to restore my reverb to fully functional as originally intended....twice now....after experiencing sudden air pressure loss, coinciding with severe bushing deterioration in both instances (As stated, at about an annual interval). Although I found it unnecessary to perform the full rebuild as described in the SRAM video series to do so, which I believe you are referring to with the removal of the poppet valve, both repairs did require components from the full rebuild seal kit. The moral of the story is, don’t blindly follow every step of the video....fix only what is broken. And if done carefully, with an understanding of how air enters a hydraulic system, you may just find bleeding unnecessary. I know I did.


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Slcpunk

The new reverb stealth has that connectamajig. Basically a quick connect on the remote system. That should make it easier to do an internal post bleed without having to do a remote bleed. It may not work perfectly well (you lose post return speed if there is air in the remote), but I suspect there will still be enough oil in the remote system to make the post useable. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## bloodninja (Jul 11, 2012)

I have a reverb question. I bought a bike with Elixir 9 brakes and a reverb, and want to move it to a bike with XT brakes. The problem is that the reverb remote seems to replace the upper part of the brake lever clamp, and obviously I can't just move it over to the XT lever. Can I buy the lower clamp part so I can just mount the switch on the other bike on its own rather than attached to the brake lever? And also buy the upper clamp part to replace the Reverb on my Elixir 9?


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## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

bloodninja said:


> I have a reverb question. I bought a bike with Elixir 9 brakes and a reverb, and want to move it to a bike with XT brakes. The problem is that the reverb remote seems to replace the upper part of the brake lever clamp, and obviously I can't just move it over to the XT lever. Can I buy the lower clamp part so I can just mount the switch on the other bike on its own rather than attached to the brake lever? And also buy the upper clamp part to replace the Reverb on my Elixir 9?


Yes you can get the clamp.....you might be able to get one from your LBS for free too, as they may have a bin of them from Reverbs that came with the full clamp but were then installed using the matchmaker mount.


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## someoldfart (Mar 14, 2013)

You just use the brake clamp. It is separate from the brake lever master cylinder.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

Time for me to rebuild mine again. I think this is rebuild number 6. I get about 4 weeks before the dreaded 1/2-3/4" sag comes back. 

Every time, the inner sealhead has come out slightly and the o-ring has come out.
Getting old rebuilding this thing! 

Are the A2s any better??


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

DethWshBkr said:


> Time for me to rebuild mine again. I think this is rebuild number 6. I get about 4 weeks before the dreaded 1/2-3/4" sag comes back.
> 
> Every time, the inner sealhead has come out slightly and the o-ring has come out.
> Getting old rebuilding this thing!
> ...


Are you replacing the o-ring with every rebuild and loctiting the threads? My buddy has the older Reverb that got a rebuild last summer, hopefully it lasts him another couple years.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

the-one1 said:


> Are you replacing the o-ring with every rebuild and loctiting the threads? My buddy has the older Reverb that got a rebuild last summer, hopefully it lasts him another couple years.


Yup. Actually, this time, the sealhead WAS good. Looks like the inner shaft (slides in the sealhead) had unscrewed from the inner shaft piston. I have now cleaned and applied lock-tite to it as well. Soon as it cures, back together it goes!


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

How many times do you have to rebuild the reverb in a year?


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

rave81 said:


> How many times do you have to rebuild the reverb in a year?


As many times as it takes


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

I have 2 reverbs one is a stealth I have had for one year the other I've had for about three years I've never had to rebuild either of them just had to bleed a couple of times in one had to be sent back for warranty


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

rave81 said:


> How many times do you have to rebuild the reverb in a year?


I got mine in March, been rebuilt 6 times. Always same thing, except for this last time.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

DethWshBkr said:


> I got mine in March, been rebuilt 6 times. Always same thing, except for this last time.


It sounds like reverb is unreliable. I got the fox dos on my other bike I've been using it for 2 years. It function like its new. However it doesn't come with internal cable similar to reverb stealth. Looks like I'm leaning more to Thomson covert.


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## scheckler (Jan 25, 2005)

Froglogic said:


> So I took it in to lbs and they said they have to send it to rockshox for them to diagnose the problem, can't fix it there. Oh BTW - this is about the 10th one they have sent in in the past few months. Very disappointing, 500$ piece of equipment that lasts only 4 months before it has to be sent in??? Hopefully they warranty it and not charge me, I am not holding my breath.


My Reverb has the same prob... I refer to it as "Reverb Seatpost Sag". Annoying. What finally happened with your situation? I bought a Santa Cruz TRc last January and had nothing but problems with frame, fork and now the remaining part I kept from that fiasco is having issues. I've had very little time, less than 3 months of riding, with this Reverb. The seatpost should still be under warranty.


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## Mike_1969_cb450 (Feb 17, 2014)

After one year of dependable service, my reverb would not hold air and needed rebuilt. I rebuilt using the 10 dollar kit according to the 4 part video process. I ended up with 1 inch sag in the post. I attempted to do a top side bleed by bleeding through the poppet valve access. This was unsuccessful. I then surmised that the problem with the RockShox method was the airgap between the poppet valve and the fluid level. The fix that Laterilus has devised gets around this by filling this gap. So I overfilled the poppet valve chamber and inserted the valve, I can't say this is the answer just part of the steps that led to a corrected post. Things got worse.... 

Through all of this process I ended up with the dreaded Seat post gets sucked in when pressure is pumped into the seat post. Gone from bad to worse..... 

What causes this? Please Rockshox have your engineer put together a trouble shooting matrix. 

So I pumped it up to full pressure while in the compressed position, I happened to press the top of the poppet valve, hisssss, air escaped from the valve. I released and pressed again, the seat post popped up. And the seat post was 100% perfect, no sag, full travel, solid as a rock. I did a remote bleed and now I'm ready to ride. 

Did not have to open up the seat post at all, no internal, all from the outside. Just not a repeatable process at this time. Only moral of the story, if you get the seat post gets sucked in, press the poppet valve, Seems to have worked for me.


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## stephanmoll (Jun 16, 2011)

Hello I am having oil leak on my reverb stealth at the bottom have already changed the remote valve and service it with all the o rings but still dumps almoust all of it oil after two weeks of use, has anyone had these issue?


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## gianrond (Sep 7, 2014)

Hi fellows, my Reverb blew up today.

I bought it used a couple of months back, and it worked fine. After some time, I started noticing that it was sinking about 5mm...and then, 2cm...and today, 10cm.

It's obviously unusable, as it sinks completely when I sit on the bike. When I tried to pump some air in, some oil (quite a bit actually) was spit out of the valve.

The lever still works...meaning that it still goes up and down correctly when I push the bottom on the handlebar, so I supposed this has nothing to do with bleeding, and is rather related to some inner seals that must be replaced. Air and oil are mixing together, and I reckon this shouldn't be happening.

Is it possible to fully service it by oneself? I can fully service a fork, so I know a little of this stuff, but still...I haven't really stripped a dropper seatpost down before.

The authorized RS service center here in Germany would charge 100€...which is definitely too much, considered that I have a feeling that this issue will come back again. Hell, this toy is more expensive than a car to maintain!

Thanks for any input


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## mustardfj40 (Aug 23, 2006)

I got my Reverb from CRC and wondered why they had such a good deal! Then I realized CRC sells the kit seperately...So basically I didn't really save anything, next time I will be very careful of CRC of this practice! I didn't really care about the retail box but the bleed kit which cost up to $40 after shipping should come with post as it was in the retail box.



2013megaAM said:


> Got mine from CRC as my old one died after a £80 service . Did notice that my reverb did not come in a rock shox box and no bleed kit no paper work . I'm not the only one who has got them like this and I wonder why ? CRC gas dropped the price aswell to £170 again I wonder why ? Makes you think they have a dodgy job lot don't it . Mine needed bleeding and has lots of side to side play .can not be bothered searching forums for help when clearly it don't work as it should . Sending it back via CRC free post let them sort it


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## Spacer (Sep 4, 2010)

So there is a warning at the beginning of rebuild procedure stating if the seat post sags then you have to send it in for service.
My seat post has this sag but I'm wondering if a rebuild will fix this problem.
Has anyone had the same problem and been able to fix it yourself?


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

Spacer said:


> So there is a warning at the beginning of rebuild procedure stating if the seat post sags then you have to send it in for service.
> My seat post has this sag but I'm wondering if a rebuild will fix this problem.
> Has anyone had the same problem and been able to fix it yourself?


Yes.


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## Chaseco (Nov 4, 2010)

My reverb is stuck in the up position, the hose isn't even connected and I can't get it to drop?


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Chaseco said:


> My reverb is stuck in the up position, the hose isn't even connected and I can't get it to drop?


The hose isn't connected, that's why you can't drop it. Lol. The button pushes fluid in the hose into the top of the seatpost where there is a valve that actuate the post. Without the hose, you can't push the fluid to the valve, that's why the post won't move.
The fluid in the hose never mixes with the fluid in the post, they are two different circuits.


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## Chaseco (Nov 4, 2010)

Ok, so maybe just bleed hose and r connect? I disconnected it to feed through frame, and when I reconnected it it was stuck up.


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## Chaseco (Nov 4, 2010)

Thanks, I bleed the hose and all is good.


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## Lowball (Sep 1, 2006)

*Connectamajig*

just got the RockShox Reverb Stealth dropper and am having a bit of a issue with the install. I haven't read fully thru all of this thread so hopefully I'm not repeating a questions already and someone can just direct me to the answer and/or video.

Basically the post came fully assembled, pre-bled hose, lever, and now they apparently have this "Connectamajig" deal @ the post for easy disconnect...all good.

Problem is this pre-bled hose won't fit thru my frames internal tube as is...so I'm assuming that means I have to disconnect the hose at the post and also at the lever, remove the hose from the lever connection barb (for lack of a better word) and drain out the oil. Then pass the hose thru the internal frame tube, connect everything back up and reinstall the fluid and bleed.

Please confirm I'm on the right track.

I did look at SRAM Reverb Stealth page which shows the service procedures and how to shorten the housing, etc...

Again, just wanted to make sure I'm thinking about this correctly.


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Lowball said:


> .....snip.......


Correct, you'll have to UNSCREW the hose from the lever, plug the end with the red connector thingy they include so it don't spill, feed the hose through the frame, reattach the hose and then bleed.


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## Lowball (Sep 1, 2006)

the-one1 said:


> Correct, you'll have to UNSCREW the hose from the lever, plug the end with the red connector thingy they include so it don't spill, feed the hose through the frame, reattach the hose and then bleed.


Didn't get the red connector deal...that's the step I'm missing. Thanks I'll try and track one down from the LBS.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

I’ll be installing my first stealth soon...I have the dropper post, just waiting on the frame. It seems to me, if you have the 2014 model with the connectamajig fitting at the post, you should be able to leave the actuator connected (close the actuator speed adjustment nut completely, per instructions), disconnect the hose from the post using the connectamajig, and feed the hose from the entrance point near the head tube, through the down tube, around the BB area, and up the seat tube. Then just reconnect the line to the post and you’re good to go. That’s my plan.


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Lowball said:


> Didn't get the red connector deal...that's the step I'm missing. Thanks I'll try and track one down from the LBS.


I mention the red connect thingy just as a plug to stop the oil from dripping, you can use anyhthing. It's main purpose is to help snake the hose through the frame. RockShox Barb Connector/Routing Tool, Reverb Stealth Seatposts in Tree Fort Bikes Suspension (cat665)


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## ATLRB (Sep 12, 2014)

Sorry guys...didn't read this whole thread so don't know if this has been discussed before. This morning it was cold (for Georgia) at just under 30 degrees Fahrenheit. My dropper was down when I got to the trail and wouldn't come up. I finally got it to raise but the rest of the ride it was very slow to drop and rise. Is this typical of cold weather or is there something more seriously wrong with the post?


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Bring it in the house and let it warm up for an hour or so, see how does it functions when in your warm house. If it works fine, then its just the cold


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## Lowball (Sep 1, 2006)

the-one1 said:


> Bring it in the house and let it warm up for an hour or so, see how does it functions when in your warm house. If it works fine, then its just the cold


Yeah could just be the oil viscosity. Too cool outside to operate properly. Does RS make something for colder climates?


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## Lowball (Sep 1, 2006)

the-one1 said:


> I mention the red connect thingy just as a plug to stop the oil from dripping, you can use anyhthing. It's main purpose is to help snake the hose through the frame. RockShox Barb Connector/Routing Tool, Reverb Stealth Seatposts in Tree Fort Bikes Suspension (cat665)


Yeah I rewatched one of the install vids and understand it better now. I have one on order but I may try to fish it thru another way. Just don't want to have to bleed the system. I'm sure I could do it if necessary but I usually leave bleeding to the pros at the LBS...but I can do everything else ?


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

*Scary installation experience*

I had one of the scariest moments of my home bike mechanic carrier today. I thought to share it with you - what went wrong and how I fixed it.

I was installing brand new Reverb Stealth on my BMC Fourstroke FS02. The bike itself is prepared for Stealth - there are holes in all the right places, cable guides, etc. So it was supposed to be easy job.

The seatpost was working fine when I tested it on the bench.

I did the installation usual way - turned the speed setting on the remote to slowest position, unsecrewd the hose from remote, put some spare brake hose from the bottom of the frame out through the seatpost, used the small red connector to attach the seatpost hose and pulled it through the frame, mounted the hose, remote, shortened the hose and connected it.

I did not bleed the system - and that was the mistake.

When I tried to operate the remote the seatpost did not move at all. It was really firm. I tried several times and then remembered that I turned it all the way to slow. Ok - I turned it all the way on other direction - perhaps it was also mistake. After I pressed the seatpost down, it got stuck there. It was not really stuck - I was able to pull it up, but it was like spring and it contracted as soon as I released it. I tried to change the speed of the movement but it did not work anymore.

Then I did some searching and found some references to checking the pressure. I checked the pressure - it was 250psi. When I pulled the post up it was almost 350psi. Then I released the pressure - now it was possible to pull the post out. But as soon as I added some air, it suck itself down.

I was really scared at this moment. Then I thought that I should try the bleeding. I released the air, pulled the post out (so it was in fully extended position) and did the bleeding. It went good, but after the bleeding, when I depressed the remote it did not extend back. I thought that I broke something 

At this point of time I tried to add some air - and the post did not contract as it did earlier! I added full 250 psi and tested it - it worked. But when I turned the speed adjuster to the fast side (not full fast), it did some weird thing - I do not remember what I exactly, but it was not correct.

I did one extra bleeding and got some bubbles out of the system.

Put it all together and it is working just fine. I'm keeping the speed adjuster on the slow side now.

Looks like not bleeding after hose shortening was my first mistake. And then turning the speed adjuster all the way to the fastest setting was also mistake.

I will try to make the maiden ride tomorrow and then post some pictures of my remote setup.


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## Lowball (Sep 1, 2006)

arnea said:


> I had one of the scariest moments of my home bike mechanic carrier today. I thought to share it with you - what went wrong and how I fixed it.
> 
> I was installing brand new Reverb Stealth on my BMC Fourstroke FS02. The bike itself is prepared for Stealth - there are holes in all the right places, cable guides, etc. So it was supposed to be easy job.
> 
> ...


Same thing happened to me with the post. I was like wtf! But just did the bleed like someone told me to and that totally fixed it. It was unbelievable. All good though.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

I went riding and it happened again  Tried to lower the post and it got stuck in the lower position. Something is wrong.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

I bleed the remote again, but this time it did not help. I think that bleeding is not the reason for the erratic behaviour. Tried to repeat what I did last time - removed air, extended the seatpost and pumped it up, but this time it started to contract. Recycled it couple of times and then tried to start pumping when it was pressed down - this worked. The post was working but something is not quite right: on the slowest setting, the post extends really fast. And when it tops out it makes clunking metal sound. There is supposed to be some kind top-out bumper, right? I rided it and used the post ~10 times. It is still working at the moment, but I think that some seal inside the post might be damaged. I will see how it works tomorrow. I will also try to find out what is the warranty procedurer.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

On the positive side I found good position for my remote together with Shimano I-spec brakes and shifter. 

I have right-hand remote that I put upside down on the left side. I have large hands and I like to brake with one finger. So brake is outboard, quite far from grips, then remote in a position where I can comforatably press it with my thumb. Finally shifer. 

The "trick" is to use KCNC I-spec clamp that allows to mount I-spec shifer separately. You can also shift the I-spec mount back and forward on the rails, so it clears the Reverb remote body better. It fits together like puzzle  

I must move my hand to operate front derailleur but I change the front gear so seldom that it's not a problem.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Right now the post seems to work, but it is too fast and the metal sound at the end of extension is worrying. I made a small clip that shows it:






What do you think about it?

Also, when I turn the rebound knob to direction of faster action it stops locking the post in on position. If I turn it back to slower, it will lock the post.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

That's exactly how mine sounds.. Is that the fastest setting? I know the adjuster is a little sensitive. I. E. A little turn changes a lot.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

This is slowest setting. I checked some videos on Youtube and it really appears that my post operates like it is set to the fastest setting.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Wow. That is how mine moves on the fastest setting.. When you bled the remote.. Did you have the setting back out to the slowest position?


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

I figured it out and now it works as supposed. I made two mistakes. 

First one was related to bleeding. Apparently the speed of return is determined by the position of the poppet valve inside the seatpost. If it is more open more oil flows through and seatpost moves faster. If it is more closed less oil flows and seatpost moves slower. The position of the poppet valve is determined by the amount of oil in the remote system. Apparently I had too much oil in the system. Even at the slowest setting the press on the remote opened the poppet valve too much. On the fast setting the poppet valve went into permanetly open position. I think this happened when I bleeded the unpressurized seatpost. What I did was to release some oil from the remote. I opened the bleeding port on the remote and turned the adjuster towards the faster setting. This pushed some oil out of the system. Then I closed the port and turned the adjuster back to the slow position. And it was alright!

Second mistake was mechanical. When I installed the remote back to the handlebars, the system did not work at all! I was ready for another bleed but then tested the system by holding the remote in my hands. Put it back to handlebars - it did not work. Then I noticed that the small tab on the top of the remote lever hit the brake clamp and I was unable to press the button all the way down. I moved the remote little bit away from brake and it worked. It's all good now.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Glad to hear you learned a lot about the post


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## BikeIntelligencer (Jun 5, 2009)

I posted this over in the LEV thread but might as well mention here too. After 2 good rowdy years my Reverb was doing the vacuum suck thing, where you grab the saddle while the post is dropped and the post extends up like there's no air in it, so the LBS said we'll either bleed or rebuild but it's outta warranty. Instead Rockshox told them to replace the post free of charge! 3 day turnaround, no exaggeration. Happy camper here...


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## alonmil (Feb 18, 2012)

Hi all....
the Reverb is on the market for almost 3 years....
it couldn't be that there isn't yet a solution for mounting the Lever on Shimano I-Spec breaks.

can someone help me???

I have Shimano SLX I-Spec-B breaks, and a Left head lever mounted on the upper side of the bar


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

Actually, Reverb’s been around a fair bit longer than 3 years....but....being that it’s made by SRAM, the largest competitor to Shimano, I think they only offer a mounting interface with their own shifters (not brakes). I could be wrong though, as I haven’t looked into it in a while.


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## coront (Dec 30, 2014)

Hey everyone. I'm thinking of doing a rebuild myself. I have no experience servicing suspension forks or reverbs. Is this a bad idea?


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

coront said:


> Hey everyone. I'm thinking of doing a rebuild myself. I have no experience servicing suspension forks or reverbs. Is this a bad idea?


I've successfully rebuilt mine twice by just watching the SRAM videos and only going as far into disassembly as I needed to to fix the issue (inner piston head coming loose, seal popping out causing sudden air loss; replacing bushings each time as well). As long as you're comfortable with mechanical stuff in general, I don't see why not. I'd say besides the basic tools needed, a bench vise is necessary. Otherwise, it will be nearly impossible to tighten the inner piston head onto the shaft properly. It will also help hold the Reverb in a steady, upright position so you can carefully prevent air from entering the system while working on it (and avoid having to bleed).


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## macming (Oct 31, 2004)

I just got a new reverb and I can wiggle the seat post by the saddle by 1 - 2mm. Is this normal? 

Thanks,

Ming


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

Sort of. I’d say 1mm with new bushings is normal. 2mm indicates the beginnings of bushing wear. Is it truly brand new from factory, or just new to you?


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## Dirttrackin280h (Aug 10, 2008)

macming said:


> I just got a new reverb and I can wiggle the seat post by the saddle by 1 - 2mm. Is this normal?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ming


I had this same concern when I received my new post. Yes, normal practice for the reverb. Mine does the same thing, but you cannot feel it when riding.


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## macming (Oct 31, 2004)

Betarad said:


> Sort of. I'd say 1mm with new bushings is normal. 2mm indicates the beginnings of bushing wear. Is it truly brand new from factory, or just new to you?


Brand new 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## macming (Oct 31, 2004)

Dirttrackin280h said:


> I had this same concern when I received my new post. Yes, normal practice for the reverb. Mine does the same thing, but you cannot feel it when riding.


Thanks! I can't wait for the maiden ride to make sure things are ok

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Lexington (Jan 18, 2015)

*Cable setup*



PiroChu said:


> I picked up an used 2011 model (125mm travel; 30.9mm x 380mm; 535g on my digital scale).
> 
> Luckily I've not had any issues with it so far (crossing my fingers) in the past 3~4wks I've had it, granted that this is my first dropper post (so I don't have anything else to compare against). It operates well up-and-down, without a play/wiggle.
> 
> ...


Is not this cable set up obstruct the oil flow, in virtually every manual I seen it reads that the radius should be wide..


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

macming said:


> I just got a new reverb and I can wiggle the seat post by the saddle by 1 - 2mm. Is this normal?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ming


I got the same thing with a new Reverb I got last month. At first I thought it was the saddle that was loose.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

alonmil said:


> Hi all....
> the Reverb is on the market for almost 3 years....
> it couldn't be that there isn't yet a solution for mounting the Lever on Shimano I-Spec breaks.
> 
> ...


I haven't looked at this carefully, but would this be the ticket for you?:
Problem Solvers


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## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

Ordered my first reverb, 125mm / 420mm; hope it will not be to long, norco range size m

Cant wait to ride it.


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## alonmil (Feb 18, 2012)

it's a nice ticket but not solving the problem.
the "problem" with the Reverb lever that it is a part of the clamp (to be accurate half of the clamp".
and I don't think there is a way to attach it to the shimano I-Spec-B clamp.

its annoying


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## alonmil (Feb 18, 2012)

albertdc said:


> I haven't looked at this carefully, but would this be the ticket for you?:
> Problem Solvers


it's a nice ticket but not solving the problem.
the "problem" with the Reverb lever that it is a part of the clamp (to be accurate half of the clamp".
and I don't think there is a way to attach it to the shimano I-Spec-B clamp.

its annoying


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## Lexington (Jan 18, 2015)

Hi everyone, I realized that I did not have a line guide in my box packaged ( with bleed kit etc) reverb bougth this year. Does it normally comes with it or I have to buy this separatelly?


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

Lexington said:


> Hi everyone, I realized that I did not have a line guide in my box packaged ( with bleed kit etc) reverb bougth this year. Does it normally comes with it or I have to buy this separatelly?


Mine came with one.


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## 661lee (Apr 11, 2007)

Lexington said:


> Hi everyone, I realized that I did not have a line guide in my box packaged ( with bleed kit etc) reverb bougth this year. Does it normally comes with it or I have to buy this separatelly?


It's usually in the plastic bag with the instructions and the sticker, not in the bag with the bleed kit.


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## macming (Oct 31, 2004)

Lexington said:


> Hi everyone, I realized that I did not have a line guide in my box packaged ( with bleed kit etc) reverb bougth this year. Does it normally comes with it or I have to buy this separatelly?


I bought mine as an OEM part and it came with a guide. No bleed kit though.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

I was riding today in -2C cold and discovered that the remote is really sensitive to temperature. Kind of expected if you think about it. In the room temperature the post was nice and slow when the adjuster was in slowest position. Outside it did not operate the post at all. I had to turn the adjuster all the way to fast side to make work and then the post was still quite slow.


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## mhopton (Nov 27, 2005)

So....first ride today on a new reverb that was a replacement for one that worked great for almost a year, then didn't. Sram was great and sent my shop a new one in 4 days.

First ride today and I notice the seat is twisting. I didn't realize that the head of the post screws on to the shaft, so I rode the rest of the ride with a seat that was constantly twisting.

After the ride, I had time to look closer and realized that the head of the post will tighten - great. I proceed to use the seat to lever the post head and tighten it up. Seems all good.

I then notice that the big threaded collar nut is loose, so I wrench it tight. Again, all semi good and the post works as it should and feels good.

When I look closer, I notice the logos on the post no longer line up with the logos on the nut....I guess it's no big deal, right? Just seems like poor QC for a brand new post to be loose in these two critical spots. I've asked the shop to call sram and inquire tomorrow, but thought I'd check here, too.

So, how tight does the post head need to be? How about the collar nut?

BTW, this is a std reverb, not stealth.


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## coront (Dec 30, 2014)

Hello everyone, is a Reverb Stealth supposed to leak oil when the bike is upside down? I flipped my bike to do some quick repairs on the trail and oil started to come out of the seat post clamp. It looked like it was coming from inside. This only happened after I flipped the bike. After this, it appears that air got inside and I lost travel of the seat post and the first inch of travel is loose (I can push the seat with my hand without pressing the button).

Thanks


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## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

Do someone have Rverb routing photos on the norco range/sight or similar 4 link suspension system?
The reason why I'm asking, at the lower seat post position, cables routes near suspension link, and it look weird and risky to me.

Thank you in advance.


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## shoshy (Sep 1, 2011)

Here's Sight's routing


















Cable does indeed rub the rocker link and seat tube, but it can't get pinched if that's what worries you.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

coront said:


> Hello everyone, is a Reverb Stealth supposed to leak oil when the bike is upside down? I flipped my bike to do some quick repairs on the trail and oil started to come out of the seat post clamp. It looked like it was coming from inside. This only happened after I flipped the bike. After this, it appears that air got inside and I lost travel of the seat post and the first inch of travel is loose (I can push the seat with my hand without pressing the button).
> 
> Thanks


No, definitely not supposed to leak oil, regardless of position. Are you positive it was oil and not water from washing or wet riding? I usually have small amounts of water that's gotten into my seat tube trickle out anytime I turn the bike upside down. Your travel loss is likely caused by air loss. Pull the post out and inspect the bottom for oil leakage, and check air pressure - should be 250 psi. Any less suggests a problem.


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## coront (Dec 30, 2014)

Betarad said:


> No, definitely not supposed to leak oil, regardless of position. Are you positive it was oil and not water from washing or wet riding? I usually have small amounts of water that's gotten into my seat tube trickle out anytime I turn the bike upside down. Your travel loss is likely caused by air loss. Pull the post out and inspect the bottom for oil leakage, and check air pressure - should be 250 psi. Any less suggests a problem.


Hi, I'm 100% sure it's oil.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

Sounds like the bottom cap that’s held in by a circlip is experiencing some sort of failure. Pull the post and see what’s going on.


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## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

Thank you, I have routes the same way, however during full suppression compression cable contacts with tire


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## Spacer (Sep 4, 2010)

So I am servicing this reverb and get to the point of inserting the IFP. I should know this but I dont. How do you tell if it is a 100mm or 125mm travel?
My reverb did not come with any documentation so just looking at it there is no way to tell.


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## Fluidworks (Oct 3, 2008)

Anyone know if Chain reaction has the newest Reverb?

RockShox Reverb Seatpost | Chain Reaction Cycles

No one has a better price I've found.


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## mustardfj40 (Aug 23, 2006)

I got my Reverb from CRC, yeah they do have good price but they sell you the bleed kit separately and you will need the bleed kit if you're going shorten your hose. I found out the hard way. After it's done I didn't save that much and after the waiting and shopping around for the bleed kit.

The bleed kit came with post if you shop smart. I didn't! ouch!


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## Fluidworks (Oct 3, 2008)

mustardfj40 said:


> I got my Reverb from CRC, yeah they do have good price but they sell you the bleed kit separately and you will need the bleed kit if you're going shorten your hose. I found out the hard way. After it's done I didn't save that much and after the waiting and shopping around for the bleed kit.
> 
> The bleed kit came with post if you shop smart. I didn't! ouch!


Hmm, adding in the kit makes its be about even. Anyone know about merlin cycles?

RockShox Reverb Seatpost | Merlin Cycles

Their price is even less than CRC though it doesn't mention presence of the bleed kit.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Check out German webshops like Bike Components and Bike Dsiscount. They have even better prices. I got stealth post recently it was latest version and came with bleed kit.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

Mine failed again. Started doing the normal 1/2" drop not much after about three weeks post rebuild. I finally just decided to take it to my shop after riding it like that for a few weeks. 
They called SRAM and they said a new post will be shipped when they become available sometime in February I guess.

I think that was 7 or 8 rebuilds. I bought it April 2, 2014.


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

DethWshBkr said:


> Mine failed again. Started doing the normal 1/2" drop not much after about three weeks post rebuild. I finally just decided to take it to my shop after riding it like that for a few weeks.
> They called SRAM and they said a new post will be shipped when they become available sometime in February I guess.
> 
> I think that was 7 or 8 rebuilds. I bought it April 2, 2014.


What was replaced in those rebuilds?


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## Dirttrackin280h (Aug 10, 2008)

Fluidworks said:


> Anyone know if Chain reaction has the newest Reverb?
> 
> RockShox Reverb Seatpost | Chain Reaction Cycles
> 
> No one has a better price I've found.


I purchased my Reverb from Backcountry for $255 shipped after they priced matched Chain Reactions price. Came with everything in the box, bleed kit, etc.


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## Fluidworks (Oct 3, 2008)

Dirttrackin280h said:


> I purchased my Reverb from Backcountry for $255 shipped after they priced matched Chain Reactions price. Came with everything in the box, bleed kit, etc.


I just tried to price match backcountry to merlin cycles but they wouldn't do it.

Ordered straight from Merlin for 236.02 shipped. Still seems like a solid price.


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## Dirttrackin280h (Aug 10, 2008)

Fluidworks said:


> I just tried to price match backcountry to merlin cycles but they wouldn't do it.
> 
> Ordered straight from Merlin for 236.02 shipped. Still seems like a solid price.


I think it depends on who you speak with at Backcountry. I can see why they wouldn't match, as Merlin is not U.S. based. Same with CRC, but I guess I got lucky! Merlin is good, and that is a great price for the Reverb. I purchased a hand built wheelset from them a couple months ago. Shipped super fast, but got held up in customs for a couple weeks. Not their fault, but service was on par.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

It was always the same failure. The inner seal head would back out and the O-Ring would blow.

I did NOT do a full rebuild of ALL parts, but they were all inspected. Good thing too, otherwise I would have put $315 in rebuilds, plus my two bottles of oil.

Had it been a different failure each time, I would have replaced all parts, O-rings, and everything as needed. However, considering the same thing kept happening, despite multiple rebuilds, and increasing degrees of preventative intervention each time, I finally said screw it.

Obviously SRAM figures it's not worth rebuilding again...


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## ssatellite (Dec 17, 2014)

I have a 31.6mm Reverb and new bike coming in is 30.9mm. When I look at the sram replacement parts doc it certainly looks like I can just change the lower tube and it will work in the new bike. Anyone have any experience with this?

Here's the pdf from RockShox:
https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...lt/files/techdocs/2015_rockshox_spc_rev_a.pdf

It's part# 14 in the diagram.


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## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

mustardfj40 said:


> I got my Reverb from CRC, yeah they do have good price but they sell you the bleed kit separately and you will need the bleed kit if you're going shorten your hose. I found out the hard way. After it's done I didn't save that much and after the waiting and shopping around for the bleed kit.
> 
> The bleed kit came with post if you shop smart. I didn't! ouch!


Bought from CRC, came with Bleeding kit and enduro collar


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## Fluidworks (Oct 3, 2008)

Any reason to run the enduro collar if I don't need to have a max travel limiter? It seems like its a solid bumper for the saddle to keep for hitting too hard at max insertion but it does limit an inch of drop. This is my first reverb so I don't know how tough the internals are.


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## hags707 (Apr 22, 2010)

I apologize if this is stated in the 80ish pages, but my reverb is out of warranty and has worked great and still does, but its has some wiggle to it and it drops about 5mm when any weight is set on it. So my question is can I fix it myself or send it to sram for rebuild and will that fix the 5mm of vertical play? 

Thanks, Shawn


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## Tuono (Apr 24, 2013)

I have had one for a year on my bike- Came OEM - chose to get one for my wifes bike so I get to see first hand how this thing sets up. First off- make sure you specify which hand you are going to use- Unbelievably SRAM makes them side specific- I mistakenly purchased one for the right hand- I do not know of anyone who uses these on the right side- so I think that is pretty silly. What I found more ridiculous is a complete lack of customer service options on the SRAM website. "Thanks for buying our stuff, go F- yourselves" is the message I got from that.
Otherwise- great dropper. There is slight rotational seat movement and the set up is a pain in the ass. The directions in the box also suck and dont explain all of the parts they sent with the box. Strangely the extra pieces dont really fit any thing related to the post size. 
I also used the KS Lev and found it to be equally great on the trail. In hindsight I would go for the KS because they had good directions in the box, and someone you can call if you get confused.


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## LaXCarp (Jul 19, 2008)

Before you get too disheartened with the right hand model, a lot of people buy the right hand model and run it upside down on the left side. I do this. It is much more ergonomically friendly.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

+1 to the above. I run a Right-Hand lever upside down on the left hand side, where there is space as no front shifter.

Much easier to use, don't have to to worry when flipping the bike over, etc.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Isildur said:


> +1 to the above. I run a Right-Hand lever upside down on the left hand side, where there is space as no front shifter.
> 
> Much easier to use, don't have to to worry when flipping the bike over, etc.


Add another to the list.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Yep, I also run a right handed remote on the left side. This has the added benefit of being out of the way if you ever flip the bike over onto the handlebar and seat, not that many people do that these days.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Ok I'll admit it. I also use a right on the left upside down.. Looks alot cleaner this way also


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Remote upside down keeps it out of harms way


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

My replacement came, and my shop called me and said "Unfortunately, they only had right side models" I said OK! I was running a left underneath on the right side, but I will gladly take a righty to mount underneath on the left!!


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## Livewire88 (Jun 15, 2013)

Can I get away with shortening the hose without having to bleed the lever? 

I have an xloc on my forks and the lever and hose is the same..


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## mhopton (Nov 27, 2005)

Livewire88 said:


> Can I get away with shortening the hose without having to bleed the lever?
> 
> I have an xloc on my forks and the lever and hose is the same..


In my experience, no. I have had to shorten the hose at the xloc button on a couple different reverbs and each time I have had to bleed the reservoir. It only takes a minute and it is a small bubble or two that gets bled out, but that's all it takes to get working smooth again .


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## Livewire88 (Jun 15, 2013)

mhopton said:


> In my experience, no. I have had to shorten the hose at the xloc button on a couple different reverbs and each time I have had to bleed the reservoir. It only takes a minute and it is a small bubble or two that gets bled out, but that's all it takes to get working smooth again .


Ok, thats a pain because I don't have the fittings! will have to ask my LBS to do it. More than likely get charged an arm and leg for a 5 min job.


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## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

kragu said:


> Add another to the list.
> 
> View attachment 965540


what a awesome frame? with such painting?? nice


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## Tuono (Apr 24, 2013)

Thanks to all that pointed out the usability of the right handed lever on the left side- As it turns out- the OEM setup that I have for my bike is a right hander on the left side as well- I had screwed up my complaint.
As it turns out, every setup I see these days is this set up- which is why I was confused. When I changed positions with the brake it fit fine- although the upside down configuration is a lot better- my wife will have to make due with the standard configuration that no one else uses. One quick caveat, I ordered the post from Art's Cyclery and the post arrived within a couple days- I identified what I perceived as the problem- and they shipped me free of charge a replacement left handed hose and lever- This is how I discovered my error- I have since shipped back the new lever they sent me because their original shipment was correct. Great customer service from Arts-


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## macming (Oct 31, 2004)

Has anyone been able to fit a left hand remote on the right side underneath the bar? There seems a lot of stuff with a shifter and brake lever already mounted there. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

macming said:


> Has anyone been able to fit a left hand remote on the right side underneath the bar? There seems a lot of stuff with a shifter and brake lever already mounted there.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No different than a right hand remote mounted on the left underside.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

macming said:


> Has anyone been able to fit a left hand remote on the right side underneath the bar? There seems a lot of stuff with a shifter and brake lever already mounted there.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This is a picture from my old reverb - It was a little far in, but surprisingly not too bad. After I removed the left shifter and went 1x10, I moved it to the left side, but hated it up top. The new one is a right hand, so it is mounted underneath on the left side.


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## Tuono (Apr 24, 2013)

"It was a little far in, but surprisingly not too bad. After I removed the left shifter and went 1x10, I moved it to the left side, but hated it up top. The new one is a right hand, so it is not underneath on the left side."
From the picture, it appears that you have a left side lever underneath on the right side. I found that it works nicely if you put it outside the brake clamp-so on the right side: Grip-upside down reverb-brake-shifter. If you move it to the left side it will then be on the top of the bar and I have put it inside the brake clamp, so left side: grip- brake- reverb. You can rotate it level so yuo arent putting pressure on the plunger when the bike is upside down. Clear as mud?


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## jessicaff (Feb 26, 2015)

Pull that off and it would be very cool, great idea. Not so much for cable pull type posts like the KS but perhaps with hydraulic as not much pressure would be needed to actuate. Call in the engineers


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## panzer103 (Jun 23, 2008)

If this has been answered already sorry. I have an old Lever from a non stealth post and I want to use it with my Stealth post. Can I do that. I have been looking to find differences but cant find what Im looking for.


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## panzer103 (Jun 23, 2008)

I have and old non reverb remote that I want to use with a stealth post. Will that work?


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

EDIT: Is the old remote from a Reverb or not?
If not, then it won't work as it pushes a different amount of oil.


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## will 6.6 (Feb 1, 2007)

Just a word of caution, there is a difference in remotes, as I found out when I used an early moddle and had nothing but dramas with my new stelth post. Fitted the original one and no issues. There was nothing wrong with the remote as I used it on a dif bike and no issues?
Just a heads up really if it doesn't work, don't waste to much time trying to get it to work


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Well let me back track a bit, there are two remotes, one is the older silver and black, the new one is all black. Is that what you mean? Other than that, the non stealth and stealth of the same year are the same.


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## ndinh (Mar 2, 2004)

I apologize in advance if this has already been covered but I can't seem to find someone that has had the exact same issue and I really don't feel like scrowling through 82 pages. So I've had my reverb for about 10 months and have used it probably about 10 times total. After sitting for a month (in down position), I pressed the lever and nothing happened. I then held the lever in and pulled up the post lightly to help it up, probably bad idea. Now it goes up slowly when I press the lever but I can press it all the way down without touching the lever. Basically, I can't sit on it without it going all the way down. I bled it and pumped more air but nothing happened. I bought the $8 seal kit but don't have all the right tools. Question is should I run out and buy $100 worth of tools (snap ring pliers, vise, soft vise jaws, etc.) or should I try to send it in and pay for them to fix it? Warranty is probably not valid due to the fact that I bought it new but from a retailer on ebay (Taiwanese). Other option is to dump it in the trash. I'm pretty P.O'ed because my 4 yr old Joplin is still running strong.


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## macming (Oct 31, 2004)

You most likely need a bleed 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ndinh (Mar 2, 2004)

macming said:


> You most likely need a bleed
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yep, already did and it didn't work. Thanks though.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

You say you “pumped more air” into it. What was the pressure prior to that? I assume you pumped it up to the prescribed 250 psi. I also assume you pumped it up while in the extended position. Did it hold pressure at all? or did it lose pressure quickly/immediately?


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## kroe (Mar 30, 2009)

Either not enough air or you didn't get the bleed right. Different symptoms when it isn't related to the spring or actuator.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

I agree that it may be not enough air due to not being able to hold a constant pressure (likely due to the inner piston head coming loose), but that’s the effect of a cause. If he can’t clue us into the cause, then perhaps the best course of action is to send it back to SRAM and let them figure it out. 

Other than the achilles heel of the inner piston head working itself loose (which is relatively easy to fix), my Reverbs have been very reliable components...and I’m hard on equipment, and short on patience when it comes to mechanicals.


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## softbatch (Aug 19, 2014)

softbatch said:


> So I just finished putting a Reverb Stealth Dropper on my 2014 Enduro Comp 29 and I haven't cut the excess cabling yet though.
> 
> I was wondering since the seat tube seems to be pretty tight with all of the pivots instead of cutting the hydraulic cable for the dropper should I put excess cable wrapped in the down tube? This would allow me to remove the dropper housing for servicing without needing to remove the cable guides on the outside of the downtube.
> 
> ...


I put this in another thread and was hoping to know your guys take too. The bike I installed the Reverb on is a 2014 Specialized Enduro Comp 29.

Thanks


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

I shortened my hose, and I think I had to take the switch off the bar, or take the bar off the stem, in order to get to the bottom of the post last time I bled, which was no big deal, and not very frequent.


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## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

Hey guys hoping someone can help me with this. I got a new bike over the holidays, and in 2 months I've managed to ruin 2 reverb stealth droppers (bike is a 2015 fuelEX 9). First one was warrantied, and dropped my bike off yesterday and waiting to hear back about the second one. Both times it seems like the seat post was bent. The first time it would come back up and stop at about 1" less than full extension. This second time, if I drop it past about 50% of the travel, it gets stuck. Anything less than that and it works fine. I don't ride that aggressive and barely use it because I live in Florida. The only thing I can think of is I carry my bike on a standard bike rack using one of those tube top things that clamp to seat post. Any idea if hauling a bike this way could be bending my dropper?


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

The "top tube thingy", is it clamped onto the stem and then under the seat? If so, then yeah, I can see how that might bend something.


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## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

the-one1 said:


> The "top tube thingy", is it clamped onto the stem and then under the seat? If so, then yeah, I can see how that might bend something.


Yup its on of those...guess I'm going to have to put a hitch on my ride.


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Try mounting it this way


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

GatorXman said:


> Hey guys hoping someone can help me with this. I got a new bike over the holidays, and in 2 months I've managed to ruin 2 reverb stealth droppers (bike is a 2015 fuelEX 9). First one was warrantied, and dropped my bike off yesterday and waiting to hear back about the second one. Both times it seems like the seat post was bent. The first time it would come back up and stop at about 1" less than full extension. This second time, if I drop it past about 50% of the travel, it gets stuck. Anything less than that and it works fine. I don't ride that aggressive and barely use it because I live in Florida. The only thing I can think of is I carry my bike on a standard bike rack using one of those tube top things that clamp to seat post. Any idea if hauling a bike this way could be bending my dropper?


Yeah, not a good idea to clamp anything on to the seat post, it kinda says as much in the paperwork....although I kinda doubt it would go so far as to cause bending. You should also check how tight you have it clamped in your frame....Reverbs have been notoriously sensitive to this. Loosen the clamp and try running it through its motion. I'm guessing this might just clear up the sticking.


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## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

Betarad said:


> Yeah, not a good idea to clamp anything on to the seat post, it kinda says as much in the paperwork....although I kinda doubt it would go so far as to cause bending. You should also check how tight you have it clamped in your frame....Reverbs have been notoriously sensitive to this. Loosen the clamp and try running it through its motion. I'm guessing this might just clear up the sticking.


That was actually the first thing I tried doing...didn't help. I'll see what trek and rs say about it...hopefully they will warranty it


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Has anyone got a list of the seal sizes needed to rebuild a Reverb or do most people just bite the bullet and buy the spendy RS kit?


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## borgey007 (Jan 24, 2015)

I am actually considering the Rockshox Reverb because I have stiff hips and can't get either leg over a normally extended seat. So I can only get on a bike with great difficulty, and risk of falling.

Probably this question is dumb; when the specifications say 100mm or 125mm of travel - does that mean between 0mm and 100mm (or 125mm) of the post extends above the seat-tube?

If my ideal saddle height is 50mm above the seat-tube, can this be set with the Rockshox Reverb?

Thanks!


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## Lambow (Sep 29, 2013)

Depends on how you are measuring the 50mm. I looked at my Reverb and the lowest it can go (fully compressed) 4 inches (100mm)from the top of the seat tube to the top of the seat. From that point it will raise up 100mm, 125mm, 150mm more depending on the version. It is stoppable any where along that distance. Is the 50mm the ideal height for you to get on your bike or to ride you bike? If its 50mm for riding you might want to consider a smaller frame. All, I am sure your aware of this but just in case your not, Getting on your bike horsey style isn't the only way and not even the best way to get on.


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## borgey007 (Jan 24, 2015)

Lambow said:


> Depends on how you are measuring the 50mm. I looked at my Reverb and the lowest it can go (fully compressed) 4 inches (100mm)from the top of the seat tube to the top of the seat. From that point it will raise up 100mm, 125mm, 150mm more depending on the version. It is stoppable any where along that distance. Is the 50mm the ideal height for you to get on your bike or to ride you bike? If its 50mm for riding you might want to consider a smaller frame. All, I am sure your aware of this but just in case your not, Getting on your bike horsey style isn't the only way and not even the best way to get on.


Thanks for your answer; very helpful and informative!
The ideal size for me is a smaller frame; but I didn't want to wait till Sept/Oct for the 2016 models. Only 1 large Bigfoot 6.1 left at the Norco warehouse, so I took it.
I think the Reverb will allow me to get on the bike, despite the larger frame.
Thanks again!


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

If 50 mm is your ride height above the seat tube, about 25mm will be taken up by the collar on post. It doesn't make sense to have a dropper post to drop 1 inch. And, riding a dropper that is always dropped is not ideal. If you want to drop it down 1 inch, then there is no "positive stop" for your normal riding position and the post will want to go to full extension. So raising the post back up is a matter of fiddling around and having the seat float up and down until you get it right. Not fast. 

As for getting on the bike, you don't need to put your leg over the seat to get on. Lean the bike over and put your leg over the top tube. Practice.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

GatorXman said:


> That was actually the first thing I tried doing...didn't help. I'll see what trek and rs say about it...hopefully they will warranty it


There is no way one of those travel bars bends the post. If it did - then HOW does the seat post take a 200 lb person on it? Crap, I bet that wouldn't put 40 lb of pressure on the post, when you hit a bump and made the bike move!

The reason you don't want to clamp on the slider is scratching. If you mar or scratch the surface, it can cause leaks.

Interestingly enough, my Farley now has my replacement Reverb, and my Remedy (brand new, just got assembled last week) both had issues with the reverb. I was riding the Remedy around the parking lot, and lowered the post. It would not go back up. Button felt good, but it would not move. 
My Farley, same thing. SRAM sent me a replacement reverb after I had to rebuild it SEVEN times in 9 months. It did a similar thing. It would NOT go down.

In BOTH cases, I found rotating the speed dial to either the fast or slow extreme would cause it to work normally.


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## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

DethWshBkr said:


> There is no way one of those travel bars bends the post. If it did - then HOW does the seat post take a 200 lb person on it? Crap, I bet that wouldn't put 40 lb of pressure on the post, when you hit a bump and made the bike move!
> 
> The reason you don't want to clamp on the slider is scratching. If you mar or scratch the surface, it can cause leaks.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip!! I will try that next time it jams up on me


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## borgey007 (Jan 24, 2015)

smilinsteve said:


> As for getting on the bike, you don't need to put your leg over the seat to get on. Lean the bike over and put your leg over the top tube. Practice.


"Practice" - that's the key word.
Appreciate very much your response!


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## gp77 (Aug 14, 2014)

GatorXman said:


> Hey guys hoping someone can help me with this. I got a new bike over the holidays, and in 2 months I've managed to ruin 2 reverb stealth droppers (bike is a 2015 fuelEX 9). First one was warrantied, and dropped my bike off yesterday and waiting to hear back about the second one. Both times it seems like the seat post was bent. The first time it would come back up and stop at about 1" less than full extension. This second time, if I drop it past about 50% of the travel, it gets stuck. Anything less than that and it works fine. I don't ride that aggressive and barely use it because I live in Florida. The only thing I can think of is I carry my bike on a standard bike rack using one of those tube top things that clamp to seat post. Any idea if hauling a bike this way could be bending my dropper?


I am not sure if a bike rack could bend it. I doubt it.

FWIW, I bent my 150mm stealth 30.9 after going over a small jump, unclipping a pedal and landing with my full bodyweight (220) on the seat. The symptoms were as you have described. After I disassembled it, I put a straight edge on the upper post and found that it was bent. Putting the bent upper post+bushing into the lower with the three brass keys in place indicated that the binding was occurring in that interface rather than the hydraulic inner shaft.

Figuring warranty wouldn't cover it, I managed to straighten the upper post with a lot of force. I stuck the post into my cars tow hitch receiver (protected by rags) and pulled down with full bodyweight. If you had a decent vice attached to a very stout/heavy workbench it would be better. The fix worked, but I hear 150mm travel 30.9 diam stealths are now discontinued because of this weakness?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

gp77 said:


> I am not sure if a bike rack could bend it. I doubt it.
> 
> FWIW, I bent my 150mm stealth 30.9 after going over a small jump, unclipping a pedal and landing with my full bodyweight (220) on the seat. The symptoms were as you have described. After I disassembled it, I put a straight edge on the upper post and found that it was bent. Putting the bent upper post+bushing into the lower with the three brass keys in place indicated that the binding was occurring in that interface rather than the hydraulic inner shaft.
> 
> Figuring warranty wouldn't cover it, I managed to straighten the upper post with a lot of force. I stuck the post into my cars tow hitch receiver (protected by rags) and pulled down with full bodyweight. If you had a decent vice attached to a very stout/heavy workbench it would be better. The fix worked, but I hear 150mm travel 30.9 diam stealths are now discontinued because of this weakness?


31.6mm reverb 150mm stealth uses the same upper tube as the 30.9mm one.


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## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

still, this tune will not work for a long time, due to this weakness, however I hope RS will release 30,9 150 mm officially; do not want to use LEV


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## gp77 (Aug 14, 2014)

Rick Draper said:


> 31.6mm reverb 150mm stealth uses the same upper tube as the 30.9mm one.


Strange that they have discontinued the 150mm 30.9 if the lower was the only major difference? Perhaps there were other differences?

Anyways, the lower was still perfectly straight after the misshap, but the bottom of the top cap assembly was only 10-15mm above the seat collar. Perhaps with more lower post extended the lower might have bent too.

The biggest gap between the straight edge and the bent upper post was at the point just above the top cap seal.

I was certainly impressed at how strong the upper post was when trying to straighten it. I have since run a seal kit through it - the comprehensive one ($40 in Australia). According to the lbs, the only kit available was the non stealth A2 reverb seal kit, which has some minor differences to the stealth one, so I couldn't replace everything. Could'nt find a kit online for cheaper once postage was factored in.

Just a few weeks ago after about 6 months of trouble free running, the sagging issue reappeared, so I put in a 125mm post that I bought from merlin about 4 months ago (and hid in the bottom drawer that the wife never looks in) on the bike, fixed the usual seal head leak on the "bent" 150mm one ready for when the new one stuffs up.

After the first warranty job due to the sagging issue took about 5 weeks, I reckon warranty is too much bother and with a spare, I can take my time to fix the broken one. The wife is none the wiser....Come to think of it, she would only get suspicious if the whole bike changed colour.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Finally some great SRAM customer service that everyone has been experiencing but me with my Reverbs throughout the years. My latest Reverb (August 2013 build) was bought last directly from my LBS on March 8, 2014. My previous Reverb that was bought from REI and I tried my LBS having SRAM warranty it only left me with a sagging post and full rebuild kit sent by SRAM. They said they weren't going to touch it, warranty it, or rebuild it. I returned that post to REI and bought the one mentioned from the LBS. A year of use and this one is sagging again, nothing drastic, but annoying nonetheless at over $300 right? I tried my luck today and brought the Reverb back to the LBS and see what they can do with SRAM. 

Anyway, the LBS just emailed me back that SRAM is sending me a brand new Reverb and should be here next week. Definitely stoked on their customer service finally after a not so great experience before.


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## chowdapilot (May 30, 2005)

After 3 months use mine died. Sent back to RS and a new one is now on the way. Starting to worry this will become an on going problem. Great post but don't want to replace twice a year, even if it is a warranty.


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

Just swapped out lower tube to fit in my new frame. Pretty easy process definitely worth doing instead of buying a new post. Hardest part was undoing the air cap without mashing the internal tube.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

Speaking of Reverbs - 

anyone have a right hand button they would be willing to swap for a left hand button? Left hand actuator is brand new never used.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

DethWshBkr, If this is a Right hand, which I think it is, I want the other one. Let me know if this is what you want.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

A few more pics to describe what I have. Here's the part no. on the box it came in. Part no. should be good, got it from a reputable shop. I don't know how to tell which is which visually, but it says "Right" as part of the box description.









Here's the one I'm looking for. Which one is it, L or R? The one on the brand new stealth is opposite.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

Betarad said:


> Here's the one I'm looking for. Which one is it, L or R? The one on the brand new stealth is opposite.
> 
> View attachment 972888


This picture is a Right hand model.

When the remote is mounted with the bleeder screw and the Rock Shox logo UP (as this picture is), which side of the bars does it sit on.

In this case, that is a right hand model.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

Betarad said:


> DethWshBkr, If this is a Right hand, which I think it is, I want the other one. Let me know if this is what you want.
> 
> View attachment 972877


And then this one is a left hand model. This is what mine is as well.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

Ahh, I see. Bummer. I better get in line then for a trade. It’s a stupid-expensive part to buy, but not sure my new build can wait much longer. Mahalo for the intel.


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## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

Rick Draper said:


> Has anyone got a list of the seal sizes needed to rebuild a Reverb or do most people just bite the bullet and buy the spendy RS kit?


Check a few pages back in this thread. Laterilus (I think) posted an exploded view and had all the seals with their measurements in the diagram. I ended up ordering o-rings on line bulk for a fraction of the cost of the RS package


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## Eastcoastroots (Mar 23, 2014)

Well after 4 months of non-use and moving the right-hand lever to left side on new handlebars, the seat got stuck down again after a couple tries....so I'll bleed the line again and suspect that will fix the issue like it did the first time. So far other than bleeding the line to start a second straight year, which really is probably standard maintenance, I've had zero problems with the Reverb and extremely happy with performance.

Question on fit: with Shimano brakes the right-hand lever placed upside-down on the left is a bit awkward...because of the way the lever bends inward at the cable connection, it seems that you need to clamp it on the inside of the brakes (on the bar). This means in order to made it easily thumb-accessible, the brakes have to be moved a little closer to the grip than I'd normally like for pointer-finger operation. Is that just what people do with the Reverb lever?


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## TheDwayyo (Dec 2, 2014)

I got a Stealth Reverb with my Fuel 9 a few weeks ago and it is already drooping... I pulled the post out to look it over and the hose appears to be pulling away from the fitting on the bottom of the post. I can see some of the white internal wrapping exposed and fluid is definitely leaking slowly. I guess the hose was pulled too much in the process of installation (which I did myself, since I work at a shop and this was a personal bike) and is now compromised.

So I know the post will need bled, but I'm wondering how to deal with the hose... Can I simply cut the bad portion off and put the fitting onto the newly cut end? I'd imagine doing that and then a full bleed should get it back to normal?

Thanks in advance for any insight you can offer.


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## TheDwayyo (Dec 2, 2014)

Update: Cut the damaged piece of hose off, rethreaded the new hose end into the barb and then bled the system. Checked pressure and found it was low, so I pressurized it to 250 psi... Still the same exact problem; post never fully extends and sags under weight. Warranty time I guess.


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## cridom (Sep 22, 2012)

I hope you guys can help me. My 2013 stealth is extending itself. I mean when I push the button and press the seat to stay down and release, the seat slowly returns to a fully extended position without me pushing the button. Anyone else had this happened to theirs? I cant warranty it because I live in Chile and Bikestores here suck.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

Never experienced that, but in theory it sounds like you’ve got a bad seal in your remote (button), or some crap in there. They look pretty simple to rebuild, provided you can get the proper seals. Of course, try bleeding the remote first if you haven’t already.


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

cridom said:


> I hope you guys can help me. My 2013 stealth is extending itself. I mean when I push the button and press the seat to stay down and release, the seat slowly returns to a fully extended position without me pushing the button. Anyone else had this happened to theirs? I cant warranty it because I live in Chile and Bikestores here suck.


To rule out the remote causing the seatpost to rise, disconnect the remote after you lower the seat. You will have to bleed it when you put it back if that is not the cause.
If that is not it, something it depressing the valve inside the seatpost that is allowing to rise.


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## moonraker (Jan 22, 2004)

Just an FYI on bleeding the remote and shortening the hose..... I got a new Reverb (non stealth) and I needed to shorten the hose. I unthreaded the remote and trimmed the hose, setting it aside with the trimmed end higher than the rest of the hose and post.
Before I reconnected the remote I figured I'd bleed the air out of the remote. To do so, I found a small 6" long piece of silicone tubing that fit just right over the threaded barb, and filled it with reverb fluid. Then carefully pumped the push button in and out, tapped the remote, opened the barrel adj, etc, displacing the air..... and found that it was very much full of air. I had to refill the fluid in the tubing several times as I kept displacing the air in the remote. I did this until no more air bubbles came up out. Then I topped off fluid in the hose, and reconnected the hose to the remote. 

I was surprised at how much air was in the remote right out of the box, but if that's a common thing, it may be the source of many of others problems here. And I have doubts the standard bleed procedure would get all the air out of the remote like my method did.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

As an alternative experience, I too recently installed a new Reverb (stealth) and had to shorten the hose. I stuck strictly to the minimal process outlined in the instructions, even though I observed little actual oil right up to the end of the newly cut hose as well as the end of the hose barb on the remote. I simply re-attached the hose as instructed, figuring I’d likely have to perform a bleed. Surprisingly, it performed flawlessly. That was a week, or 4 rides ago...so far so good.


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## Lowball (Sep 1, 2006)

Starting to notice side to side movement of the post/seat. Is there a fix for this? Have about 120 miles on the bike before I started noticing it while riding. Honestly haven't completely read thru the thread or did a search yet but just thought I'd mention it to see what people have noticed already. Flame-suit on.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

Depends how much movement. In my experience roughly 1mm but <2mm at the top of the post is pretty normal with new bushings (or with a new Reverb). Any more indicates bushing wear. 120 miles seems low for any type of noticeable wear, unless you bought it used.

The fix is replacing 2 bushings, one in the seal head, and one on the outer shaft. This obviously requires some disassembly, which can be intimidating to those who don’t have a lot of mechanical experience. But the SRAM Reverb repair videos offer good guidance for those inclined to take it on.


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## Lowball (Sep 1, 2006)

Betarad said:


> Depends how much movement. In my experience roughly 1mm but <2mm at the top of the post is pretty normal with new bushings (or with a new Reverb). Any more indicates bushing wear. 120 miles seems low for any type of noticeable wear, unless you bought it used.
> 
> The fix is replacing 2 bushings, one in the seal head, and one on the outer shaft. This obviously requires some disassembly, which can be intimidating to those who don't have a lot of mechanical experience. But the SRAM Reverb repair videos offer good guidance for those inclined to take it on.


Thanks Betarad...maybe this is just not the post for me. Its seems to be in the 1-2mm range, but I do notice it occasionally. I can live with it if it's "normal" but wasn't sure.


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## Michail_Bugaria (May 3, 2014)

Remote button A1 only suitable to reverb A1 and A2 button is only suitable for reverb A2. And according to the manual SRAM they are not compatible with each other.

What exactly makes them incompatible? They provide different amounts of oil or is there something else?

Nobody tried to use the "old" A1 button with a new A2 reverb?
Perhaps that need a little modification.


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## TheDwayyo (Dec 2, 2014)

TheDwayyo said:


> Update: Cut the damaged piece of hose off, rethreaded the new hose end into the barb and then bled the system. Checked pressure and found it was low, so I pressurized it to 250 psi... Still the same exact problem; post never fully extends and sags under weight. Warranty time I guess.


Update: Got the new post and will be installing it tonight. Just to be sure, I think I'll bleed the new post and check pressure before installing...

At least they apparently know there are issues with them and don't delay in sending out the new ones.


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## TheDwayyo (Dec 2, 2014)

Got too eager to ride (and beat the rain that was coming) so I just did a quick install of the post, no bleed and didn't check pressure. It was working well for the whole one hour ride I did.

It seems that the post that came stock on the bike was different... The warranty replacement had the new quick release thingy on the bottom, whereas the OEM one did not.

Also interesting; the replacement came in the consumer-ready packaging, which included a much better install kit (including better syringes for bleeding) than the OEM version.


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## will 6.6 (Feb 1, 2007)

Hi, I had this issue, eventually my LBS figured it out. The mechanic said he thinks the incompatibility comes from different bore diameters? Any way my A2 stelth would not work correctly with my A1 remote. Not sure you could easily modify A1 to work with A2. 
Upside is my old post now has remote on LHS upside down!
Cheers


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## Michail_Bugaria (May 3, 2014)

Hi *will 6.6*
Thank you for sharing this information.


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## Whip_It (Apr 24, 2012)

Noticed no listed weight for the 31.6/420 on the front page.

Ordered 420 to begin with and found it way too long and couldn't be cut, so swapped it for the 380.

31.6/420: 605g
31.6/380: 563g

Both included full mounting hardware (mmx, bar clamp) straight from box. Remote was labelled Feb 2015. Both measured on digital scales for kitchen use.

420 really is very long and quite a bit heavier, so measure up first.


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## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

Whip_It said:


> 420 really is very long and quite a bit heavier, so measure up first.


depends on a frame size, I'm using 420 at the medium frame (I can put it all way down into the frame) however due to smaller frame size prefer 420 over 380 in order not to crack seat tube


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## dukemasterpro (Jan 10, 2012)

HELP NEEDED!!...Just had the lower seal replaced at the LBS and told the post was ready go, disconnected the post end of the hose and did the stealth install. When connected the post starting dropping 2 inches by itself ( just like it did before hand ). 
Have tried a bleed and now the remote lever either won't depress or has lots of movement. I'm pretty certain have followed all the steps on the RS youtube video but can anyone help out with any wisdom? Driving me nuts....


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Rockshox released a rebuild manual for the stealth. Its pretty much the same level of difficulty as a standard reverb. Your seals have gone band and you need to replace them. Its either that or your inner seal head unscrewed itself.


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## kdb71 (Feb 19, 2014)

dukemasterpro said:


> HELP NEEDED!!...Just had the lower seal replaced at the LBS and told the post was ready go, disconnected the post end of the hose and did the stealth install. When connected the post starting dropping 2 inches by itself ( just like it did before hand ).
> Have tried a bleed and now the remote lever either won't depress or has lots of movement. I'm pretty certain have followed all the steps on the RS youtube video but can anyone help out with any wisdom? Driving me nuts....


Mine started doing this on my first ride. Researching I found that this is a somewhat common problem and a known issue covered by warranty. The manual even mentions that if this happens to send it back. I sent it back to the place I bought it from for warranty replacement. Just heard today that a new one is on it's way to me.

Also I have a non-stealth that has had no issues whatsoever.


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## penny_farthing (Jun 9, 2009)

Is it at all possible to buy these on their own? rockshox reverb top cap glide bushing replacement.

Seems a lot of money to simply buy a new Top Cap because a 2 cent glide has perished.


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## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

did someone convert 30.9 125 mm reverb into 150mm ?
is it possible?


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## Loudpawlz (Jan 26, 2004)

Laterilus said:


> Whatever causes it, I personally think there is something inherently wrong with the Rockshox method of bleeding. I came up with my own procedure and I've never had that sucking in issue while pumping ever since. Gonna be somewhat tough to explain, but here goes nothing:


This method FTW. I was about to have kittens the other night trying to bleed the post following the instructions in the video.


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## Markino (Feb 16, 2015)

Hi guys,
which of those two Reverb do you suggest me to go?
http://www.alltricks.com/mtb/seatposts/seatposts/rockshox-reverb-seatpost-309380mm-
ROCKSHOX 2015 Telescopic Seatpost Reverb II 30.9/380 mm 125 mm MMX RT (Right Matchmaker Collar) Bleed Kit - ALLTRICKS

Around 30euro difference for the 2015 model with bleed kit: does it worth?
What's the difference of the 2015 model?
Will I have to bleed the system when I'll receive the Reverb or the bleed kit is included only for future service use? (I have a Avid Elixir brake bleed system.... can it work for service the Reverb?)


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## lukey2k (May 9, 2014)

Has any one replaced the hose with a coloured or braided hose ??

I dont need to do it but think it would look cool with a different colour than black or white....


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

My ride today half way through the post decided not to hold my weight anymore.. It will go up and down. But When I sit on it it just drops. Taking it to the bike shop to look at it. It's already been replaced under warentee for this once about 2 months ago. My riding partner just got his back from the exact thing also.


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## mbell (Sep 9, 2008)

deleted


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## mbell (Sep 9, 2008)

If you haven't found anyone yet, I have one. PM me.



DethWshBkr said:


> Speaking of Reverbs -
> 
> anyone have a right hand button they would be willing to swap for a left hand button? Left hand actuator is brand new never used.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

The top cap of the Reverb Stealth unscrews itself. Is it ok to unscrew it little bit more do expose the threads and put some blue Locktite on them?

Service manual does not mention usage of threadlocker at all.


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## CaRaBeeN (Mar 24, 2012)

Hi everbody, hard to read full topic, and sorry if this is asked many times:
My 3 years old reverb stealth is not working properly anymore.
Never did service or bleeding him before 

Problem is post is not going down by hand, I had to seat on it and push down really hard myself to get it lower 

Do you think if bleeding will help? Or should I make full service? or better buy new one


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## mbell (Sep 9, 2008)

Definitely go with a bleed to start. If you don't get the results you want, then go with a complete service.



CaRaBeeN said:


> Hi everybody, hard to read full topic, and sorry if this is asked many times:
> My 3 years old reverb stealth is not working properly anymore.
> Never did service or bleeding him before
> 
> ...


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## bikegreece (Apr 8, 2006)

Hi,
I have a similar question. My stealth is 380mm & I trust I need 420mm. Can I just fit a longer shaft on the same post by replacing just the outer lower shaft instead of buying a new dropper?


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## bikegreece (Apr 8, 2006)

Hi,
I have a similar question. My stealth is 380mm & I trust I need 420mm. Can I just fit a longer shaft on the same post by replacing just the outer lower shaft instead of buying a new dropper?


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## MattyPugh87 (May 14, 2015)

My post is a year old, extends perfectly but doesn't go down properly, keeps sticking takes a lot of force to get it down sometimes. So i guess a bleed is the solution? i hope it doesn't need a service


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

MattyPugh87 said:


> My post is a year old, extends perfectly but doesn't go down properly, keeps sticking takes a lot of force to get it down sometimes. So i guess a bleed is the solution? i hope it doesn't need a service


Make sure your seat post clamp isn't too tight. Might have an effect.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

Just ordered a 31.6 125mm 380 non stealth from merlin. Browsed through the topic but damn its a lot of pages. 

Can anyone tell me what page the bleed procedure that user LaterSomethingis posted that people seem to like. 

Also I gather when you bleed the remote you have to have it turned to the slow setting? When you guys first got your posts did you check the air pressure or assume it was right if the post works out of the box. When you add pressure (or got to check it) do you do it while the seat is fully extended or lowered? 

Any other initial install advice?


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## BennTron (May 23, 2015)

*Reverb Stealth won't drop.*

G'day all, 
I just picked my bike up from my lbs after months of waiting for a new replacement frame and rebuild. I didn't bother checking that all was in order until my first ride yesterday and noticed straight away that the seat post would not drop, not even budge. Before the frame swap the seat post worked perfectly. I've checked various threads to find a solution but could not find anything. I've checked the collar, and it doesn't appear to effect it. ALL I WANT TO DO IS BLOODY RIDE! I had been waiting so long to get back out there, then this happens. If I can avoid taking it back to the shop and
if anyone has an answer it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


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## Kronze667 (Aug 15, 2014)

Hi mate, you need to bleed it which isn't all that difficult if you follow the instructions in this video from Sram. 




After you do the bleed correctly you should be good and hopefully you wont need to go buy another one..Ouch  Hope this helps.


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## Kronze667 (Aug 15, 2014)

I love this Dropper Seat post as it was pretty easy to bleed and install, cut the hoses to length etc although I use a Hope Seat post clamp instead of the one that came with it hmmm. I have never had a problem with over tightening the clamp, maybe because Hope made it 

My only issue is with the slight movement at the seat clamp which moves a mil or so from left to right which apparently is a known issue but it only annoys me when i'm not actually riding the bike..weird. 

Oh and I have the control upside down on the left of my handlebars (instead of the right side) where the front shifter would normally be if i used a front derailleur, which I don't .


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

*Changing brass keys to make the post drop smoother?*

I have a Reverb Stealth post that does not want to go down easily. I found out that when I press at the back of the saddle it binds. When I press at the nose of the saddle it goes down smoothly. I'm not sure if it behaved like this since the beginning, or it has developed this beahviour recently.

There is also some forward-backward and side-to-side play in the post. The play was there since the beginning.

I searched the thread and found out that the brass keys come in three different sizes and that by replacing the keys it is possible to decrease the play and reduce the binding.

Will I damage the post if I keep using it in current condition? Or should I replace the brass keys in order to reduce the binding?

The post has about 40 hours of riding time, but I do not use it very often, because there is only few steep descents on my trails.

I can make the life easier for post and move my weight to the nose of the saddle before dropping it, but it would be more comfortable if I should not have to worry about this kind of stuff.


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## U-Austrian-vertrider (Jan 31, 2007)

Hallo Folks, a am new here in this tread. Thanks for all the tech info here. I am rebuilding a 1 year old stealth wit 150mm travel. Had the same problem Laterilus described.
But there is one basic question I never read in this thread ore anywhere else:

There is a sealing between inner tube and the post head. If this seal fails the post will not work since the oil is leaking into the air chamber - at the stealth version. I am not shure if this was the case on mine. Its now working.

I would like to give some hints.

When adjusting the oil level -point 14+15 of the stealth service manual. Fill the inner shaft with oil before you suck of the oil. This guarantees that the level will be ok. 

After the rebuild the post didn't move when actuatig the lever. Than I tried one thing. I removed the hose and actuated manually the poppet valve - and than it moved. So I bleeded the actuator circuited and screwed against the speed+ direction. So more oil is in the circuit. And it worked after. 

All in all its not a big thing to do the rebuild. The case of the failure was a screw off of the inner seal head as described by laterilus. 

Hopefuly the post will work for some more rides. Maybe it makes sense to controle the connection of inner seal head with upper post befor an unscrew occurs. This can be easily done by deflating the post and removing the snapring. Point 10-25 from the manual. You just have to be shure that the post will always be in the upright position.

@sandatos:
was it possible to completly unscrew the post head. If this would be the case one could easily change the o-ring between inner tube and post head. 

But I guess it will not be the last time im am working on this post.


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## Mtn Biker (Nov 21, 2009)

One year old Stealth is sagging and leaking. Release works fine. So it's under warranty. Never been rebuilt and probably has more than 100 hours on it. I'm planning on calling SRAM and seeing what they say to do with it. It would be worth the wait and shipping for them to fix/replace it. But also thinking I should get on with learning how to maintain it. Read enough here to think I can handle it. 

My first Stealth was replaced by the dealer when I bought the bike (Santa Cruz) because it sagged.

Any thoughts before I call SRAM? I have a number from this thread, but doesn't mean they'll talk to me.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

arnea said:


> There is also some forward-backward and side-to-side play in the post. The play was there since the beginning.


It is still worrying me, so I made a video:






Is this amount of play usual for Reverbs?

PS. The top cap unscrewed itself again, even though I put some blue Loctite there.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

My shop warantied my first post when it was doing that. It looks like there is more play than there should be. I am no expert though..


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

arnea said:


> It is still worrying me, so I made a video:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That does look like excessive movement, the type you would see with worn bushings. But what's more concerning is the back and forth movement I think I'm seeing in the clamped, lower part of the post. Why is that moving so much?


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

arnea said:


> It is still worrying me, so I made a video:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is definitely a lot of play.



Betarad said:


> That does look like excessive movement, the type you would see with worn bushings. But what's more concerning is the back and forth movement I think I'm seeing in the clamped, lower part of the post. Why is that moving so much?


^^^ Agree with this. You may need to check your linkage bearings, as I wouldn't expect that much play in the frame from simply rocking the seat post back and forth. Unless your suspension is set *really* soft.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Isildur said:


> That is definitely a lot of play.
> 
> ^^^ Agree with this. You may need to check your linkage bearings, as I wouldn't expect that much play in the frame from simply rocking the seat post back and forth. Unless your suspension is set *really* soft.


Thank you for your replies.

I checked the movement between frame and seatpost body and there really isn't any. It is just optical illusion in the video. The frame with seatpost body is moving little bit in relation to the seatstays. Bearings and linkages are fine and yes, my suspension is set really soft.

I'll contact the shop and ask about replacment.


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## junkbox619 (Apr 27, 2015)

Couple of questions:

1) I just purchased a brand new Reverb online. Went to install today and the seatpost will not elevate - it just stays down. I can hear air when I pull it up manually and release it. I've tried bleeding and that does nothing. I contacted the seller I got it from, we'll see what happens.

2) How the hell does the matchmaker work? Probably doesn't work with SLX? I got right hand with the intention of putting upside down on the left but I just have too much crap. Front brake and gear shifter - both SLX. I gave up and put it on the right, but how do I use the matchmaker with SLX?


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

you don't. matchmaker is for sram shifters. Idk what to say about it not coming up aside from check to make sure it has 250 psi in it


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## junkbox619 (Apr 27, 2015)

hankscorpio said:


> you don't. matchmaker is for sram shifters. Idk what to say about it not coming up aside from check to make sure it has 250 psi in it


Yea, I was trying to do so but the valve cap and valve is kind of deep inside - not sure how to remove valve cap. Needle nose pliers probably but didn't want to scratch anything in case I send back. And even then not sure if pump valve will fit in. hahahahaa


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Everytime I have had problems with the post not coming up or down it was the remote needed bleeding..


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## junkbox619 (Apr 27, 2015)

Psycho1 said:


> Everytime I have had problems with the post not coming up or down it was the remote needed bleeding..


I've tried all sort of bleeding. 

When working correctly are you guys able to pull the seatpost up freely? not easily of course.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I'm not thinking you should ever pull up the seat post. That will break it. It should come up on its own.. Have you bled the remote with the adjuster set to the slowest. And then after bleeding from the post to the remote. Finish the bleed just with the remote and the syringe on the remote.?


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## junkbox619 (Apr 27, 2015)

Psycho1 said:


> I'm not thinking you should ever pull up the seat post. That will break it. It should come up on its own.. Have you bled the remote with the adjuster set to the slowest. And then after bleeding from the post to the remote. Finish the bleed just with the remote and the syringe on the remote.?


Well, I only pulled it up because the remote was doing nothing so I wanted to see if it would stay up after pulling. I've tried bleeding from remote, bottom of seatpost, both, and just post.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

What about just the remote.. ?


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## junkbox619 (Apr 27, 2015)

Psycho1 said:


> What about just the remote.. ?


That was the first thing I did, hoping the seat post would magically pop up. Never did.


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

junkbox619 said:


> I've tried all sort of bleeding.
> 
> When working correctly are you guys able to pull the seatpost up freely? not easily of course.


Bad bleed. The remote pressurizes fluid which activates the poppet valve inside the seat post. The poppet valve is what allows the post to move. Your problem is the remote is not doing its job, bad bleed. The seat post will move up n if you pull on it. The air you are hearing when pulling the post is from the air holes on the bottom of the post.


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## junkbox619 (Apr 27, 2015)

the-one1 said:


> Bad bleed. The remote pressurizes fluid which activates the poppet valve inside the seat post. The poppet valve is what allows the post to move. Your problem is the remote is not doing its job, bad bleed. The seat post will move up n if you pull on it. The air you are hearing when pulling the post is from the air holes on the bottom of the post.


Edit: Just did the same thing I did earlier, only with frustration and lots more back and forth pushing of syringes. Lol. It popped up! It doesn't pop up on the slowest setting but it's a start. Will bleed more tomorrow. I can now sleep tonight. :lol:


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

Not sure if this has been covered or not so I'll apologise in advance but is it possible to take a 150mm Reverb Stealth and use a 30.9mm seat post shaft? I really want a 150mm Stealth for my Turner but Rockshox don't offer them in 30.9mm...

Thanks for you input on this.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

is there any sizing guide that can be used in selecting which length/travel is suitable for a ride/biker?

at full extension, my 30.9 seatpost is at 240mm from end of seattube to saddle rail. i want to get full travel as much as possible. any idea what length/travel will work for me?


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## mk00 (Jul 30, 2008)

Hi,

Can anyone tell me the weight of 355mm reverb? Looks like google dont know it.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

I'm sure it's only a few grams less than the 380


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

spyghost said:


> is there any sizing guide that can be used in selecting which length/travel is suitable for a ride/biker?
> 
> at full extension, my 30.9 seatpost is at 240mm from end of seattube to saddle rail. i want to get full travel as much as possible. any idea what length/travel will work for me?


https://caminade.eu/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Tailles-tds.png

this will help you, but looks like you can use 125mm travel, either 380 or 420. But with the 380 you should be way past the min insertion of 80mm


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

arnea said:


> Thank you for your replies.
> 
> I checked the movement between frame and seatpost body and there really isn't any. It is just optical illusion in the video. The frame with seatpost body is moving little bit in relation to the seatstays. Bearings and linkages are fine and yes, my suspension is set really soft.
> 
> I'll contact the shop and ask about replacment.


The post was replaced by RockShox. I checked the new post by hand and it does not seem to have any play. Now I'm waiting for the replacement frame to put my bike back together.


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## euro-trash (Feb 9, 2008)

AkumaY said:


> anyone know if you can put a spacer or something to limit the travel on the reverb? its a smidge too long for me.


Sorry if this has been answered--I did check and couldn't find it. I can't get used to my reverb--I'm like Goldilocks, it's never right, and nearly wreck I'm so distracted by my post. It was so bad, I took my post off and went back to rigid. Is there a way I can limit my 100mm to 50 mm, that way I can just slam it be done with it? What travel spacers would I need? Thanks!


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## surlyduck (May 10, 2004)

I have a Reverb Stealth with 150mm (travel); 34.9mm (diameter); 430mm (length). I guess I'm short, but I can't quite get it low enough at max extension to allow correct saddle height. Being able to just pop it back to "pedal height" is pretty important as I plan on doing some marathon and XC racing.

Does anyone out there know if the travel can be limited to 125mm? Then I could raise the post in the frame to get the correct extension. Or am I going to have to drop to a smaller diameter and use a shim?

Thanks in advance.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

isn't that what the enduro collar is for?


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## surlyduck (May 10, 2004)

No, the enduro collar limits how far down the seat will go.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

I don't follow? isn't that what you want?


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

No, they purchased the longest stroke model available (150mm) and now want to limit maximum extension. The enduro collar can only limit where it stops going down. 

There are plastic volume spacers in each model, sized differently for each stroke length. Perhaps it’s possible to add one of those (or take away, not sure exactly how it works) to alter stroke length. Just guessing here, I have no experience with this.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

again I apologize for my lack of understanding here. the collar limits the drop right. so if you have 150 and you put the collar on under the seat you can limit it to something like only 125 drop, correct? they want the seat to not go to its full travel length which means they have the seat as far down into the seat tube as it will go and it's too high? again. not following this well. sorrt


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## surlyduck (May 10, 2004)

34.9 is very limited on options.

I got the only one the make in a Stealth version.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

hankscorpio said:


> again I apologize for my lack of understanding here. the collar limits the drop right. so if you have 150 and you put the collar on under the seat you can limit it to something like only 125 drop, correct? they want the seat to not go to its full travel length which means they have the seat as far down into the seat tube as it will go and it's too high? again. not following this well. sorrt


I'll take a stab at this. If I understand it correctly, yes they have 150mm of travel, yes they have the post inserted as far down into the seat tube as it will go, and yes the seat in the fully extended position is too high. Everyone knows one of the beautiful things about a dropper post is that you can instantly drop the seat out of your way on the descents. But an even more critical function is to be able to have your seat return to the precise height for climbing/pedaling efficiency with the push of a button, without you having to find that position with your butt every time.

The height of your seat in the fully dropped position is pretty arbitrary and it can be manipulated using the collar. But the height of your seat fully extended against its internal stop is critical, and cannot be altered externally with the collar. This also illustrates the importance of purchasing the correct height seat post to match the bike and rider fit. When it comes to seat post drop, some is good, but in many cases, more is not necessarily better.


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## surlyduck (May 10, 2004)

Betarad said:


> I'll take a stab at this. If I understand it correctly, yes they have 150mm of travel, yes they have the post inserted as far down into the seat tube as it will go, and yes the seat in the fully extended position is too high. Everyone knows one of the beautiful things about a dropper post is that you can instantly drop the seat out of your way on the descents. But an even more critical function is to be able to have your seat return to the precise height for climbing/pedaling efficiency with the push of a button, without you having to find that position with your butt every time.
> 
> The height of your seat in the fully dropped position is pretty arbitrary and it can be manipulated using the collar. But the height of your seat fully extended against its internal stop is critical, and cannot be altered externally with the collar. This also illustrates the importance of purchasing the correct height seat post to match the bike and rider fit. When it comes to seat post drop, some is good, but in many cases, more is not necessarily better.


You got it! I would have preferred something with less drop, however, the size range in 34.9 is limited to 150mm. I can use a reducer shim and run a 31.6 post, the options are more plentiful, but the frame is carbon and I am not sure of warranty issues with a carbon frame. I could even use a 34.9 externally routed post, there are more options there, too.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

Yea but it's not just the drop that's working against you. it's the whole length of the post. I lucked out because I debated 380 or 400 or 420, can't remember what the 31.6 options are and I was able to go with the 380 with about 25 mm to spare above the min line.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

surlyduck said:


> You got it! I would have preferred something with less drop, however, the size range in 34.9 is limited to 150mm. I can use a reducer shim and run a 31.6 post, the options are more plentiful, but the frame is carbon and I am not sure of warranty issues with a carbon frame. I could even use a 34.9 externally routed post, there are more options there, too.


As a bit of a 'Home made" option, could you simply use some swaged cable, with one loop around the frame and the other loop around your saddle rails, to limit the height the seat?

Similar to how they limit the height in the Pinkbike article?
Tech Tuesday ? Make a Ghetto Dropper Post - Pinkbike


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## ProgRockin (Jul 1, 2015)

I bought a used Blur LT as my first mountain bike and it came with a reverb post however the post is inoperable. The lever to control height will rest in the depressed position as if there was no oil in the system. The seat sits at what appears to be max height and has about 1.5" of sink when you sit on it. Being completely new to this I'm not sure if it just needs fluid and to be bled or a full rebuild. Any ideas? Thanks for your help.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

ProgRockin said:


> I bought a used Blur LT as my first mountain bike and it came with a reverb post however the post is inoperable. The lever to control height will rest in the depressed position as if there was no oil in the system. The seat sits at what appears to be max height and has about 1.5" of sink when you sit on it. Being completely new to this I'm not sure if it just needs fluid and to be bled or a full rebuild. Any ideas? Thanks for your help.


Sounds like it needs a bleed and also make sure it has the correct air pressure in the post itself.


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## Mangchi BB (Jan 7, 2015)

IF you can get the stealth!


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## Mangchi BB (Jan 7, 2015)

IF you can get the stealth!

RockShox Reverb Stealth Post 125mm 2014 | Internal Routing


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## Clyde250 (Oct 18, 2013)

yeti575inCA said:


> Sounds like it needs a bleed and also make sure it has the correct air pressure in the post itself.


Mine was doing the same thing. I ended up getting the full rebuild kit and changing all the O-rings. Took some doing, but it's working like a champ.

I am rethinking the Reverb if I am going to have to do this every year. Rockshox recommends doing it every 100 hours of use.


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

Does anyone have a set of #3 brass keys from a rebuild kit? I would gladly pay for them. Thanks


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## nowlan (Apr 21, 2009)

Recently my Reverb is really hard to compress when its extended. It raises at full speed no issue, but I really have to sit on it pretty hard to get the seat to fully down which can make for some sketchy situation. 

Any ideas?


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## llamapoo (Apr 24, 2013)

Does anyone know the design specification for the Reverb? I'm 215 lbs and my seat tube angle is 70 degrees. I've only every gotten two rides before having to get it serviced, rebuilt, or parts replaced. If my weight and the angle are outside the design spec, I'll stop bothering to try and fix it.

Help from any SRAM design engineers (or someone else in the know) will be gratefully received.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

llamapoo said:


> Does anyone know the design specification for the Reverb? I'm 215 lbs and my seat tube angle is 70 degrees. I've only every gotten two rides before having to get it serviced, rebuilt, or parts replaced. If my weight and the angle are outside the design spec, I'll stop bothering to try and fix it.
> 
> Help from any SRAM design engineers (or someone else in the know) will be gratefully received.


I'm not aware of the actual design spec, but none of the criteria you've listed appears alarming. I'm 230 lbs. and have successfully been using 2 reverbs - one non-stealth for 3 years, and a newer stealth version for 6 months. I find I have to rebuild just about annually.


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## llamapoo (Apr 24, 2013)

Thanks for the info - and your seat tube is pretty laid back? I have a Devinci Atlas. I just don't seem to be having any luck with the Reverb and I'm quite tempted to believe it's the angle of the seat tube that's leading to deformation of the seals and consequent loss of oil.

Thanks again for your reply.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

llamapoo said:


> Thanks for the info - and your seat tube is pretty laid back? I have a Devinci Atlas. I just don't seem to be having any luck with the Reverb and I'm quite tempted to believe it's the angle of the seat tube that's leading to deformation of the seals and consequent loss of oil.
> 
> Thanks again for your reply.


The 3 year old reverb is on my Mojo HD...I believe it has a 70 degree STA. The stealth is on my HD3 which is a bit more upright at 71.5 I think.


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## brandaopj (Dec 27, 2012)

my reverb stealth from 2015 starts sags and i´ve noticed if it is in down position, if i pull the saddle it goes up very easily. If i put weight again it goes down again till the position i locked it.

its normal that it goes up if i pull the sadle?


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## rynh (Jul 10, 2015)

Hey all,

I've got a Reverb Stealth that is blowing/sucking air upon compression/decompression. It also doesn't hold its recommended 250 psi after a few cycles. Have the seals gone bad? If so, any idea which ones in particular? Does something just need to be tightened? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Wish I could search this thread without manually reading through each page...a great resource otherwise!


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I just bought a new 125mm reverb (non-stealth) and it measures at 150mm. I have an old 125mm and it measures at 125mm. I'm happy, but confused!


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

Bonus! Sounds like you got a 150mm by mistake. I guess as long as you've already got enough exposed seat post for it to work, all good


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

According to the SRAM website they don't make a 150 non-stealth version!?! So not really sure how this even happened, but fortunately I have more than enough room for the extra inch!


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

An extra inch always makes a difference


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I'm a moron that don't know maths. It's a 125 and my old on is 100mm.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

Haha, sorry to hear! I'd almost have to succumb to the wishes in your signature for that ;(


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## H00rst (Apr 14, 2015)

Hello
today my Reverb leaked all the oil. What could be happened?


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## Vincyboy (Mar 6, 2011)

Guys... I'm in big trouble I think...

When I sit on the saddle, the saddle drop from ±0.75''. I tried a few things...
- Unload the air pressure to 0 and crank it up again at 250psi (with the stem extended, obviously)
- bleed it to discover nasty sh** in oil.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9bbgkcnzot37m8y/IMG_0252.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9w3x3gfuflkrr1a/IMG_0251.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z4q8hv19lglc1q6/IMG_0262.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4o3ve7qu5xd6hf4/IMG_0264.JPG?dl=0

When I was pushing on the handle/button and sucking the oil into the seringe, it has more and more metal dust getting out.

As you can see, the oil is dirty. I paid for a rebuild and I guess they didn't do nothing for the money. Nice...

If I drop the seatpost of 2'', the problem is not as bad...

The reverb is still working.

If you guys has any idea...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Reading these posts makes my head hurt. Or should I say, reading these post make my head hurting.


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## mtbiker040 (Jul 11, 2010)

busy thread!! 

I just got my first dropper post on a new bike with a 150mm stealth reverb.

Is it normal that the post sags a little when you sit on it in the extended position?


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

Unfortunately this is normal but it's not supposed to happen.


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## mtbiker040 (Jul 11, 2010)

bigkat273 said:


> Unfortunately this is normal but it's not supposed to happen.


ok I understand, thank you for the quick reply!!


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## H00rst (Apr 14, 2015)

During last ride my Reverb Stealth started to sag until the lower seal blow out and leaked all the oil. I've send it in warranty.


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## BigLarry (Jul 30, 2004)

mtbiker040 said:


> busy thread!!
> 
> I just got my first dropper post on a new bike with a 150mm stealth reverb.
> 
> Is it normal that the post sags a little when you sit on it in the extended position?


I don't feel any sag on my Reverb Stealth post which is only a few months old. And I'm a fairly large guy at ~250 lbs with pack.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

My new (2nd hand) 29er came w/ a 125mm version... I took it off and put it in my 650b ride (32 inseam). Are Reverbs (non stealth) self serviceable? 

-------------------------------------
Opinions are like A-holes... everybody 
has one & they're usually full of...??


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## mtbiker040 (Jul 11, 2010)

BigLarry said:


> I don't feel any sag on my Reverb Stealth post which is only a few months old. And I'm a fairly large guy at ~250 lbs with pack.


interesting, I may need to have it re-bled then!! Thanks!


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## mtbiker040 (Jul 11, 2010)

mtbiker040 said:


> interesting, I may need to have it re-bled then!! Thanks!


Took my bike to my LBS, they contacted RockShox and they agreed there was too much sag at the extended position (20mm); since mine is so new they want it back to do an RCA (root cause analysis) and replace mine.


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## Lowball (Sep 1, 2006)

*Dropper Fail*

3rd straight day of use at MBO this past Sunday and the dropper puked oil inside my frame and started draining out the bottom. Only thing I can think of is that on Day-1 I had an high speed OTB and maybe the housing got stretched a bit and tweaked the connectamajig. But it was totally fine on Day-2, so didn't think it was an issue...and it didn't start acting up until the last 3/4 of the ride on Lawler Day-3...had to stand and pedal out on the last bit of fire road to the pick-up spot.

Got back to camp and the entire bottom bracket and crank arm (left side) were covered in RS post fluid :???:

Pulling the post tonight to verify...guess if it's OTB tweak it's my bad???

Anyone else have this happen?


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## H00rst (Apr 14, 2015)

Lowball said:


> 3rd straight day of use at MBO this past Sunday and the dropper puked oil inside my frame and started draining out the bottom. Only thing I can think of is that on Day-1 I had an high speed OTB and maybe the housing got stretched a bit and tweaked the connectamajig. But it was totally fine on Day-2, so didn't think it was an issue...and it didn't start acting up until the last 3/4 of the ride on Lawler Day-3...had to stand and pedal out on the last bit of fire road to the pick-up spot.
> 
> Got back to camp and the entire bottom bracket and crank arm (left side) were covered in RS post fluid :???:
> 
> ...


Same happened to me. Turns out the lower seal blow out.


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## mtbiker040 (Jul 11, 2010)

my LBS got mine replaced fast and the new one is perfect. no sag at all at the top and it works perfectly.


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## Raxik (Oct 21, 2012)

Hi everyone,

on one DH course I had my Reverb in lowest position, and I had a crash, nothing spectacular, but it seems my bike fell somehow on a seat, or side of a seat, and something happened to a post.

It immidiately jumped in highest position, but it doesn't stay there, I can push it with my hand to the bottom, and then it immidiately jumps back in highest positions... like 100% sag... I also tried to pump it to 250 PSI but I get the same problem, plus I think it's losing pressure fast, and soon after pumping it's at 0 PSI...

I was about to send it to service, but I first wanted to ask does anyone have any idea how big of a problem it is? Did some seal just blew off after crash, or post need serious (and expensive) rebuild, or it's even beyond repair? On the outside it looks mint.

Thank You!


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## Lowball (Sep 1, 2006)

H00rst said:


> Same happened to me. Turns out the lower seal blow out.


Pulled it last night and most def. a blown lower seal...sending it back to the LBS.


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## Mark194 (Mar 3, 2012)

good bye Reverb, I am going to try a KS LEV Integra


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## crconsulting (Apr 11, 2004)

*Reverb O-ring sizes*

Just went thru getting the basic kit and realizing they didn't include some of the o-rings I needed. SRAM, I would gladly paid another 2.00 to get ALL the o-rings! :skep:

Laterilus did most of the ground work, I just added a few that I needed that were missing from the basic kit. Figured I would revise the illustration a little since his seemed to no longer be visible. All the o-ring sizes have red lines.

Hopefully it will help someone.

oringsandmore.com seemed to have most of the odd metric sizes.
Illustration is just missing a couple of the smaller ones now. If you have the sizes I can add them...


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

Feeling kind of pleased with myself having just converted a 150mm Stealth 31.6mm to a 30.9mm so now it fits in my Burner. This has been something that I've been planning on trying for a while, never being 100% sure that it would be doable but I'm please to say it is and opens up a whole lot of opportunities to people.

Sorry if this has already been covered in this thread but thought it might be helpful to some people seeing as RS don't offer it as an option.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

How?


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

smilinsteve said:


> How?


I'm assuming this is for me?

Take one 31.6mm Reverb Stealth 150mm (I just so happened to have one off a recently sold Intense).

Buy 30.9mm shaft part number R8020030 and swap shafts. 

Simple as that really, I just wasn't sure whether I'd run into other problems with the internals etc, but everything went smoothly and the post works nicely.


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

I did the same to mine this past winter as well and it works great. I was worried about needing different size keys but it was plug and play. One word of advice though, lather the inside of the new lower tube with more slick honey than you think is needed for a smooth install.


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## 411898 (Nov 5, 2008)

CALLING ALL EXPERIENCED REVERB USERS:

This issue has probably already been covered in this thread(???) but I have a Reverb Stealth that is stuck in the fully extended position. When I push in the release lever, it stays pushed in. I assume it needs a bleed at least, but does this sound like an issue that demands more attention than just a bleed?


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Sounds like just the remote needs a bleed.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

Hawg said:


> CALLING ALL EXPERIENCED REVERB USERS:
> 
> This issue has probably already been covered in this thread(???) but I have a Reverb Stealth that is stuck in the fully extended position. When I push in the release lever, it stays pushed in. I assume it needs a bleed at least, but does this sound like an issue that demands more attention than just a bleed?


Try rubbing the tip a little until it squirts . . . it should relax after that.


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## 411898 (Nov 5, 2008)

007 said:


> Try rubbing the tip a little until it squirts . . . it should relax after that.


Oh,,,, go ride you bike! :incazzato:

WAIT, you can't, you're injured! :lol:


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

I seem to remember Laterilus mentioning that in reality its only one bushing and one o-ring that need replaced if your post is sagging, is that correct?


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

PHeller said:


> I seem to remember Laterilus mentioning that in reality its only one bushing and one o-ring that need replaced if your post is sagging, is that correct?


Mine was sagging, by about 3mm or so. Got the "Basic Service Kit", cost me about $15 AUD and proceeded with a rebuild with all the bits that the kit would allow.

Was basically a full strip and rebuilt, but only replacing the o-rings and bushing in the kit. Totally fixed the sag 

Took me about 30 minutes to do, mainly as it was the first time. I reckon I could get it done much faster now that I know the process!


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

So in general, has the reliability of the recent iterations improved?


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## Misiak (Mar 17, 2011)

Hi guys, just want to ask if this amount of side to side play is normal / typical for reverb. It's 2015 model stealth edition. It's maybe 2mm but sometimes I can feel it during a ride. Is there anything I can do to have it rock stable ? Thx


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Do you also have back and forth play? This is how much my post had:






Side-to-side was little bit less than you have. The post was replaced by Rockshox. I sent the video link to the shop and they asked me to send the post back.


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## Misiak (Mar 17, 2011)

Yes, there is some back and forth play but not so bad than in your video. It's very small, but it's there. I don't remember if I had it there when it was new but I'm sure it was less. I think I'll write to RockShox to have a look - I got this seat with my Canyon Spectral bike and I've ridden appx. 1200km. Does your new seatpost have any side to side play or it's rock solid ?


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

New post does not have any side-to-side or back-to-forth play. I think that initially I had less play, but it got bad quite quickly. Main problem was that post did not want to go down when I had my weight in the back of saddle. I had to sit on the nose to press it down.


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## Misiak (Mar 17, 2011)

Thx for info. How long do you have the new seat ? Mine was definitely better as well at the beginning, went worse pretty fast. Also noticed that speed knob - if I reduce speed to min and press the lever, the seat goes up pretty fast - almost with the same speed as if the knob is set at max. speed. It only goes slow if I press the lever half way but this does not seems good in my opinion. What is the behavior of your speed adjustment ?


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

arnea said:


> New post does not have any side-to-side or back-to-forth play. I think that initially I had less play, but it got bad quite quickly. Main problem was that post did not want to go down when I had my weight in the back of saddle. I had to sit on the nose to press it down.


Guide pins are worn, needs replacing. They control the rotational play.
As for the seat not going down when putting pressure on the back of the saddle, its the top bushing under the collar, needs replacing.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

I have used new post only ~200km so it is still like new. 

About the speed control - it means that there is little bit too much oil in the hose or that the temperature is high where you are riding.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

the-one1 said:


> Guide pins are worn, needs replacing. They control the rotational play.
> As for the seat not going down when putting pressure on the back of the saddle, its the top bushing under the collar, needs replacing.


Ok, it is good to know what parts cause what problems. In my case the post was replace and new one is fine so far.


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## Misiak (Mar 17, 2011)

the-one1 said:


> Guide pins are worn, needs replacing. They control the rotational play.
> As for the seat not going down when putting pressure on the back of the saddle, its the top bushing under the collar, needs replacing.


Thanks! Do you know where these pins can be buy ? Also I've read that they are different sizes and put slightly bigger can make it rock solid, is that true ? It's still under warranty so I don't know what to do. Do you think rockshox will replace it ?

More or less I only need to know if it is normal to have such play or it's abnormal. If abnormal, then I have to either replace it of fix it.



arnea said:


> I have used new post only ~200km so it is still
> like new.
> 
> About the speed control - it means that there is little bit too much oil in the hose or that the temperature is high where you are riding.


So there is absolutely no side by side play ??? Then my pins really needs to be worn. But pretty fast  I've bled once, so maybe I've pressurize too much with oil, maybe I have to release some oil. Thx for suggestion.


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## dMITIj (Sep 18, 2008)

Hey to yall.

I bought a Giant reign and what a nice bike. 
But my ROCKSHOX REVERB STEALTH that comes with the bike dosen't work, i cant get it down, i have trid to bleed it and taken all the air out of it but nothing helps. do you have any suggestions on how to fix this?

best regrads.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

it seems to me that the issues in the reverb are mainly caused during assembly from the factory (ie displaced o-rings, incorrectly torqued threads, etc).


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I'm waiting for my 5th replacement. This one is saging by 3 inches. Not at the top of the stroke. Only every where else. I've had them freeze up. Blow up And dump oil ever where. And this has all been in less than a year. Very disappointed.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Psycho1 said:


> I'm waiting for my 5th replacement. This one is saging by 3 inches. Not at the top of the stroke. Only every where else. I've had them freeze up. Blow up And dump oil ever where. And this has all been in less than a year. Very disappointed.


for these kinds of issues, perhaps it could be manufacturing tolerances from a given batch out of the factory. if it were tolerance issues, then no amount of rebuild can fix this. overall i'd say is a quality control issue for SRAM if my assumption is correct. i don't see any design flaws in system perse, just end-user wants and preferences.

OT: hydraulic systems to function flawlessly, need to work at tight tolerances even if they got o-rings on them regardless of the material these rings are made of. its because of this that automatic tranny's in cars work well and big @ss machines in factories work 24x7 at most for hundreds if not thousands of hours


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

This has been over a period of a year. So im not thinking its a bad batch. I agree hydraulic systems are built proof when designed correctly. I run a large printing press . For over 25 years. And equipment like this just keeps going. It's usually an air line that goes out. But, they run while dripping oil everywhere. I think the post can't handle even a small amount of wear. Puts it out of tolerance to easy.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Psycho1 said:


> This has been over a period of a year. So im not thinking its a bad batch. I agree hydraulic systems are built proof when designed correctly. I run a large printing press . For over 25 years. And equipment like this just keeps going. It's usually an air line that goes out. But, they run while dripping oil everywhere. I think the post can't handle even a small amount of wear. Puts it out of tolerance to easy.


material selection vs weight vs wear/tear i reckon...


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## balentong16 (Sep 17, 2015)

Just got my new reverb,i installed and bleed it by myself but my post wont drop down,i tried to re bleed the post i make sure no air in the line,still my dropper psost doesnt go down,appreciate your help


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Sounds like the remote might need bleeding. Not the post.


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## balentong16 (Sep 17, 2015)

Psycho1 said:


> Sounds like the remote might need bleeding. Not the post.


I already bleed the remote twice already

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mapski99 (Oct 28, 2015)

*1 repair, then bliss.... left mount*



happyriding said:


> Thread summary:
> 
> 3) Several posters have sent their Reverbs in for repair 3-4 times. Some of the people who chimed in to say that their Reverbs were working perfectly were beset with problems later.


Stuck down, LBS couldn't fix, they returned to Rockshox. A brand new dropper was sent back.

The new dropper has been flawless. 16months and a few thousands drops later (yah, I use it a lot).



happyriding said:


> Thread summary:
> What say all you Reverb users? Right or left mount for the remote?


LEFT for sure. The right is too busy going up and down the back cassette.

They sent me a righty, not a lefty. I needed to get in the saddle, so I installed it left side above the bar, aka opposite.... it's a stretch to use - not very ergonomic, but it's better mounting on the right side, for me at least.

-JD


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Has anyone got a guide ring size for the lower seal head?


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## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

Full rebuild corrected sag. When you do this with a sagging post, expect pressure under the inner seal head an wrap with a rag when threading it off. Job was not hard but getting all the tools is a bit of a quest. Post is good as new now and i have all i need to rebuild it when needed.

Lotta parts.


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## viccoastal (Sep 18, 2005)

I am having the same exact issues. I serviced my Reverb but got the dreaded suck down after pumping it up. I have a couple questions. While fully pressurized you removed the small c clip and plug above the poppet valve? 
Anyone else try this?

Thanks,

Darren


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## Spacer (Sep 4, 2010)

Removing circlips when fully pressurized sounds dangerous.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

what replacement hose options are there for a reverb non stealth? which jagwire hose can be used?


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## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

viccoastal said:


> I am having the same exact issues. I serviced my Reverb but got the dreaded suck down after pumping it up. I have a couple questions. While fully pressurized you removed the small c clip and plug above the poppet valve?
> Anyone else try this?
> 
> Thanks,
> ...


I followed the docs completely and depressurized it first. Are you referring to the c-clip at the bottom of the post?

The sag is an indicator of air on the wrong side of the IFP and that is why actually the poppet head cover not the inner seal head tries to launch. On the non-stealth everything is upside down. I believe with the non-stealth, the inner seal head will be the hobby rocket when disassembling, if you have sag.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Do we really need an IFP depth gauge or can we just fashion up something to stick in there with the correct marks? 

I just got my seal rebuild kit and I find it hard to believe that 20 seals contribute to keeping air in the post. I just want it to hold air, it doesn't have any movement otherwise.

Sounds like the 2x19mm o-ring is the usual culprit.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

what's the technique in getting the last bit of air out of the remote?

i cut my hose and followed sram youtube channel to the last bit.

the post moves a lot slower compared to when it came out of the box in the slowest knob position.

clamp is just right and bleeding was done at slowest knob position. remote is higher than the saddle during procedure.

any 'undocumented techniques' out there?


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## viccoastal (Sep 18, 2005)

Thank you for this post! I had the same issues and couldn't figure out why. Your bleed procedure was the cure, thanks again.

Darren


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

looks like my reverb (non stealth) needs a service and lbs wants to charge me half the price of a new one to do it!?

Busy scouring the net for low priced service kit...

-----------------------------------------------------------
-=snifff!!=- What's that you say?


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## f0nz0 (Sep 21, 2009)

so reading this thread has me hesitant to pull the trigger on a 150mm reverb stealth that i can get for 290$... searching for my 1st dropper post im a tall guys at 6'3 with an xl frame..so really are these issues just issues with dropper posts in general??


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Im the same size as you. I have gone through 5 of these post already. Their warranty is excellent. But..... I think there are more reliable post out there..


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## f0nz0 (Sep 21, 2009)

Psycho1 said:


> Im the same size as you. I have gone through 5 of these post already. Their warranty is excellent. But..... I think there are more reliable post out there..


man.. i think im going to hold off then.. from what i seen $290 the best price on a 150mm post, but i would hate to go through the hassle of it not working properly


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Reverb at fastest speed:

https://s264.photobucket.com/user/s...C4F18821-261A-420A-B262-2E56268F26F7.mp4.html

Reverb at slowest speed:

https://s264.photobucket.com/user/s...C3CE2A-BEE2-4222-8C1C-44A92C047617_1.mp4.html

Right off the box the slow speed isn't like this. The slowest speed is actually still fast and that an audible 'thud' can still be heard. After I cut the hose and re-bled repeatedly, the slowest setting isn' as quick as whenit came off the box...

Just wondering if this is the same slowest speed that everyone has after a 'proper bleed' ? (Im certain I bled correctly as demoed by SRAM Tech video)


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## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

To bleed i pushed entirely full syringe of fluid in both directions three times. Be sure to have the speed adjust on slowest when you do it.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

piperpilot964 said:


> To bleed i pushed entirely full syringe of fluid in both directions three times. Be sure to have the speed adjust on slowest when you do it.


how about the part where you bleed just the remote? ie port on seatpost is already closed.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

The speed adjuster is actually a temperature compensator. For unknown reasons Rockshox is using oil that is really temperature sensitive. If you are riding in cold climate you want to increase the speed, otherwise the post will not operate at all (it was really scary when during my first ride at winter the post did not move at all). If the slow speed is too slow then you might not have enough adjustment room. 

I also did the bleeding according to instructions, but probably more than three times and have adequate adjustment range also for near zero degree Celsius temperatures. Definitely make sure that the speed adjuster is in the slowest position during the bleed - it means the oil reservoir in the handlebar control is largest.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

i wont experience temp fluctuations since im in the tropical region so quite hot all year round.

thing is i can't make it operate similar to how it returns right off the box. i know it shouldn't be a biggie, but yea i'm still inquisitive on the 'why' aspect.

part of me tells me that maybe the remote was bled under pressure from the factory?


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## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

I've got a small amount of movement with the post part of my stealth reverb (in other words, the part which moves up and down). Is anyone else experiencing this?

The movement is only minimal and does not seem to be getting any worse. It's not the clamp or bolts holding the saddle in place, have tightened and inspected them thoroughly. And it isn't the 'outer housing' (which the post part moves in and out of) moving between the frame.

Any suggestions? Is it normal?
Sorry for the poor naming of parts, wasn't sure on what to call them


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## mtbiker040 (Jul 11, 2010)

Cam. said:


> I've got a small amount of movement with the post part of my stealth reverb (in other words, the part which moves up and down). Is anyone else experiencing this?
> 
> The movement is only minimal and does not seem to be getting any worse. It's not the clamp or bolts holding the saddle in place, have tightened and inspected them thoroughly. And it isn't the 'outer housing' (which the post part moves in and out of) moving between the frame.
> 
> ...


I'm on my third warranty replacement stealth for this same reason, the two I had previous all developed a sag or play while extended. I had my LBS warranty them and they send us a new one each time. The rep said they were trying to identify "bad batches" they had and wanted the ones that failed sent back. I have had my current one about 3 weeks and it's perfectly fine so far.


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## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

mtbiker040 said:


> I'm on my third warranty replacement stealth for this same reason, the two I had previous all developed a sag or play while extended. I had my LBS warranty them and they send us a new one each time. The rep said they were trying to identify "bad batches" they had and wanted the ones that failed sent back. I have had my current one about 3 weeks and it's perfectly fine so far.


I might have my LBS check it out too. Only issue is the dropper post was second hand (came with a recently purchased bike). Its under 12 months old, but I don't have any proof of purchase.

Thanks for the reply nevertheless,


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## timbonz (Nov 22, 2015)

Hi I'm new to this site. I have a problem with my reverb seat post. I have had it for many years. Here in New Zealand we ride in mud, rain, grit, etc . My seat post got to the stage it was not working ,
I purchased the full service kit , then found out the top nut is an extra and not included in the service kit, total cost here in NZ about $180.00
I looked at many of the service clips on the net. Then dismantled the seat post , installed the full kit, assembled the seat post all went well.
When I pumped it up the post sucked down not up,??? nothing I do seems to want to make the seat post push out.
I have looked at the exploded view of parts on the Rockshock site a lot and have everything I can see in the right order. I have bleed the remote. 
Can any one put there finger on what I may have missed of can help with my problem.
cheers


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## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

timbonz said:


> Hi I'm new to this site. I have a problem with my reverb seat post. I have had it for many years. Here in New Zealand we ride in mud, rain, grit, etc . My seat post got to the stage it was not working ,
> I purchased the full service kit , then found out the top nut is an extra and not included in the service kit, total cost here in NZ about $180.00
> I looked at many of the service clips on the net. Then dismantled the seat post , installed the full kit, assembled the seat post all went well.
> When I pumped it up the post sucked down not up,??? nothing I do seems to want to make the seat post push out.
> ...


Hi Timbonz,

I'm not too sure what the problem is here. It could possibly be the remote, air pressure or the hydraulic fluid pressure not opening the valve for it to extend.

I suggest you fully bleed it, making sure the speed adjuster has been opened fully (spin counter clockwise), the post is fully extended, the bleed nipples on both the dropper post itself and remote are at their highest point (to prevent air getting into the system).

If you press the remote, what happens, does it get stuck too? It could possibly be the air pressure within the dropper post - make sure it is 250psi.

Here is a great video from GMBN on how to bleed the dropper post:





Other forums with a similar issue:
RockShox Reverb Stuck Problem! - Pinkbike Forum
How do i extend my Reverb without the remote? « Singletrack Forum

If all else fails, and you've bled it and rebuilt it several times, the best option would be for you to take it into your local bike shop.

Hope this helps


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

is it bad lifting the bike via the saddle? i'm struggling to get rid of that bad habit...


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## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

spyghost said:


> is it bad lifting the bike via the saddle? i'm struggling to get rid of that bad habit...


Pretty sure it's perfectly fine to lift the bike via the saddle - I do it. What harm would it cause I guess?

When holding the bike in a bike stand however (which involves clamping the post) I suggest you clamp it to the non moving part of the dropper post.


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## timbonz (Nov 22, 2015)

Hey thanks , I did get it sorted and it was an oil bleed problem. it turned out I had air in the inner tube. once out and remote bleed it all worked great.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Cam. said:


> Pretty sure it's perfectly fine to lift the bike via the saddle - I do it. What harm would it cause I guess?
> 
> When holding the bike in a bike stand however (which involves clamping the post) I suggest you clamp it to the non moving part of the dropper post.












how about something like this? on some bike parks, the got this stuff setup for parking while riders have a seat or take a break


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## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

spyghost said:


> how about something like this? on some bike parks, the got this stuff setup for parking while riders have a seat or take a break


Considering its being held for a short period of time I presume it would be perfectly fine too. However, I do suggest you make sure its resting on the saddle rails - this will prevent any damage to the seat shell.

If you are wanting to store and hang your bike from a bike stand for a long period of time however, i recommend this product:
https://www.yakima.com/tubetop

Simply, it attaches to the stem and the non-moving 'housing' part of the dropper post. It will evenly distribute the weight of the bike, putting no pressure on the dropper post.

Hope this helps 

Here is another forum thread with a similar question. If you look at Trojans1993 post, he provides a clear image on how to hold the bike using the Yakima TubeTop.
https://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/hanging-bike-dropper-post-826533.html


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

home storage is not an issue. i got a bike stand so its pretty much standing on both wheels, ie normal position. just curious on how it may affect the post by a pulling force than a pushing.


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## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

spyghost said:


> home storage is not an issue. i got a bike stand so its pretty much standing on both wheels, ie normal position. just curious on how it may affect the post by a pulling force than a pushing.


Also, make sure your hanging the bike when the post is fully extended. I don't think hanging it when its compressed will cause any issues, but for piece of mind sake it wouldn't be a bad idea.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

could have been mentioned already somewhere in this thread... is there any other hose that can be used for reverb aside from an RS one?


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## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

spyghost said:


> could have been mentioned already somewhere in this thread... is there any other hose that can be used for reverb aside from an RS one?


I can't seem to find any other hydraulic hose specifically for a RS Dropper post(which was made other than by RockShox), however i'm sure any hydraulic hose (with the correct dimensions) would work.

If you need to replace your current hose, RS offers a replacement kit: 
Rockshox Reverb Replacement Hose > Components > Seatposts > Seatpost & Clamp Parts | Jenson USA


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## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

Cam. said:


> Also, make sure your hanging the bike when the post is fully extended. I don't think hanging it when its compressed will cause any issues, but for piece of mind sake it wouldn't be a bad idea.


I would not recommend pulling up on the post with any force when compressed. I would not even hang it by the seat unless fully extended. If the IFP seals are worn and you pull up on the seat when compressed, you could pull a vacuum and get air behind the IFP, creating the dreaded sag issue. This will of course require a rebuild or at least a tear down and re-assembly.


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## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

piperpilot964 said:


> I would not recommend pulling up on the post with any force when compressed. I would not even hang it by the seat unless fully extended. If the IFP seals are worn and you pull up on the seat when compressed, you could pull a vacuum and get air behind the IFP, creating the dreaded sag issue. This will of course require a rebuild or at least a tear down and re-assembly.


I think you have misunderstood what i had said. Perhaps i didn't make the suggestion clear enough. But yes, your right, it is a bad idea to hang the bike when the post is compressed. So therefor it is best to hang the bike when the post is fully extended.

Thanks,


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## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

yup just adding some additional detail


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

does the thumb switch really move when the sped adjust is turned?


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## brent701 (Sep 17, 2012)

f0nz0 said:


> so reading this thread has me hesitant to pull the trigger on a 150mm reverb stealth that i can get for 290$... searching for my 1st dropper post im a tall guys at 6'3 with an xl frame..so really are these issues just issues with dropper posts in general??


IMO I'd buy something different

I had a brand new Stealth on my 2016 fuel. 
didn't even last a month. Warrantied it./ Sold it. Bought another KS LEV. have never had a problem.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

My Rev is getting service today/tomorrow... hopefully will be like new!

My KS Eten feels like new after getting a service and I didn't have to sell a kidney to get it done o_0

-----------------------------------------------------------
-=snifff!!=- What's that you say?


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## BigLarry (Jul 30, 2004)

f0nz0 said:


> so reading this thread has me hesitant to pull the trigger on a 150mm reverb stealth that i can get for 290$... searching for my 1st dropper post im a tall guys at 6'3 with an xl frame..so really are these issues just issues with dropper posts in general??


When reviewing the many, many pages of threads on dropper posts, I couldn't see a consensus on reliability. There were just as many people on each type of dropper post saying either it worked for many for years without problems, and each type of dropper post had many saying they had lots of problems in the first year. Also, on various store review sites, one post would sometimes be the best on one site, and the worst on another. Go figure.

I finally went with the Reverb Stealth on my new Bronson. My LBS that was building the Bronson said they also couldn't recommend any best post for reliability based on their repair records. However, they said the Reverb Stealth had the advantage it was the only post they could service and rebuild quickly in the shop without sending back to the manufacturer. They also suggested that, like the shocks and other hydraulics, I do service once a year or more to maintain reliability. Due to the difficulty of installing the post with Di2 battery underneath, they later backed off and said service every few years might be fine.

I now have more than 1000 miles over the last six months with my large size (~230 now). Zero problems with the Reverb Stealth so far.


----------



## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

^This! It's truly a hit or miss with these things.

My friend's Reverb seized up and wont work and he's the type the services his stuff regularly.

My reverb on the other hand has been with me for 5 years and I only bled it once. Never cracked it open yet.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Are there any adverse impacts of exceeding the 12 degrees angle adjustment of a reverb?


----------



## Spacer (Sep 4, 2010)

I have a small leak coming from the strain relief where the remote hose connects to the post.
I cut back an inch of hose and replaced the strain relief but still leaking.
Is there a trick to installing the hose or could it be the hose needs replacing too?


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

cut the hose clean and square and just thread it through the barb the normal way. just make sure you don't twist your hose along its route back to the remote, otherwise it will undo itself


----------



## Spacer (Sep 4, 2010)

spyghost said:


> cut the hose clean and square and just thread it through the barb the normal way. just make sure you don't twist your hose along its route back to the remote, otherwise it will undo itself


Thanks spyghost, I hadn't thought of the hose twisting itself off. I'll give it another go.


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Interesting to see further updates on the reverb, doing away with the internal glide rings on the new IFP should improve reliability.


----------



## Spacer (Sep 4, 2010)

Rick Draper said:


> Interesting to see further updates on the reverb, doing away with the internal glide rings on the new IFP should improve reliability.


Interesting. Where did you get this info?


----------



## matadorCE (Jun 26, 2013)

Apologies if this has been asked a lot before, but I tried searching a couple of times (including inside this thread) and couldn't find the answer.

I bought a new regular Reverb (i.e. not stealth) and on my second ride I noticed that the seat rotated easily for a little while after I would put the post back up from the down position. Is this normal? It happened to me 2 or 3 times during that ride, and it seemed like it was always after the post came back up to full up position that the seat would suddenly come loose and i could rotate with a light touch of my leg.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

matadorCE said:


> Apologies if this has been asked a lot before, but I tried searching a couple of times (including inside this thread) and couldn't find the answer.
> 
> I bought a new regular Reverb (i.e. not stealth) and on my second ride I noticed that the seat rotated easily for a little while after I would put the post back up from the down position. Is this normal? It happened to me 2 or 3 times during that ride, and it seemed like it was always after the post came back up to full up position that the seat would suddenly come loose and i could rotate with a light touch of my leg.


what's rotating, the entire post, or just the inner tube? if its the entire post, could just be a loose clamp. if its the inner tube, the brass pins inside. weird that its new and has issues...

been on mine for 2 months now with 1 race on its use and still smooth so far (cross fingers)


----------



## matadorCE (Jun 26, 2013)

The telescoping shaft with clamp and seat rotates, so not the portion inside the frame. It will lock itself back in place soon after it comes loose but not necessarily in a straight seat position.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

i'd bring it back for warranty if new. the only thing that will prevent rotation are the internal brass pins


----------



## matadorCE (Jun 26, 2013)

spyghost said:


> i'd bring it back for warranty if new. the only thing that will prevent rotation are the internal brass pins


Well damn it to hell; I only have 3 rides on the thing. I've got a ks lev on my other bike and that only lasted about 6 months before it took a dump.


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Spacer said:


> Interesting. Where did you get this info?


There is a new updated IFP in every stealth reverb service package and the bag is labeled as such.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

how does it look like? pics would make it clearer.

so is this just updates in the seal and not the hardware itself?


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

spyghost said:


> how does it look like? pics would make it clearer.
> 
> so is this just updates in the seal and not the hardware itself?


Its a new IFP, think it is made of plastic but I did not bother looking too closely. Got a load more in the workshop but I don't have time to take a photo, aint really much worth photographing, its like the old one, grey not silver and does not use any glide rings.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

what's the part number of the kit?


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

spyghost said:


> what's the part number of the kit?


FS1 11.6818.003.010 Reverb Full Service Kit (includes new, upgraded IFP; requires post bleed tool, oil height tool and IFP height tool) - a1 (2010-2012)

FS2 11.6818.021.010 Reverb Full Service Kit (includes new, upgraded IFP; requires post bleed tool, oil height tool and IFP height tool) - a2 (2013-2016)

FS3 11.6818.022.020 Reverb Stealth Full Service Kit new (includes new, upgraded IFP piston; requires post bleed tool, oil height tool and IFP height tool) - a2 (2013-2016)


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

now this makes me wonder if my reverb came with this new ifp. i got a 2015 one.


----------



## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

What makes it so special? Less chance of air seeping past? 

Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk


----------



## picko990 (Dec 21, 2015)

g'day guys! new here!...

quick question....

i have a reverb stealth (pre new funky connector) that i just did a full service on. the problem i am having is the post will only go down about 20mm and it feels like the fluid is pushing against the remote leaver. you can feel it in my thumb.

post clamp is not tight, bleed remote several times. the actuation of the lever is not smooth. there is a significant notching feel as you push it. as a result the lever does not return all the way out. maybe just a couple of mm short.

any suggestions?

cheers
jason


----------



## bushcat (Aug 2, 2015)

I'm looking at getting the reverb dropper and I'm debating between the 420 and 380. I run my seat post with max around 9" tall. Can you guys recommend one?


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

measusre from top of seat tube to saddle rail using your non dropper with the cirrect height. take that measurement to a reverb and you can take your pick from there


----------



## bushcat (Aug 2, 2015)

Not sure what you mean by that. I guess my main question is. If I ride with 9" showing, will the 380 be inserted far enough at that height? What's the max height of the 380mm? 380-80mm insertion?


----------



## smcnair (Jul 26, 2010)

*IFP Depth*



Laterilus said:


> stepneo,
> 
> .....Secondly, Exact depths of the IFP are not important. The only depth that is important is that you put the IFP at the depth of your post's dropping/extension distance. For example, if you have a 125mm post, you have to make sure you at least push the IFP into the stanchion tube 125mm. Preferably, go past it just to make sure. It is easier. For the regular reverb, this means pushing the IFP towards the saddle clamp end and then the opposite applies for the Stealth. Look at that diagram from the thread that peanutaxis posted and this will make sense.....


Just curious what happens if pushing the IFP to a depth less than the post travel. Does this reduce the travel effectively (I want to do this)? or does it cause other problems?

I have a 125mm but want a 100mm but they are hard to find. With my 380 x 125mm inserted fully in the frame it is just a bit too high at full extension. If I could make my post a 380 x 115mm for free, that would be great.


----------



## picko990 (Dec 21, 2015)

smcnair said:


> Just curious what happens if pushing the IFP to a depth less than the post travel. Does this reduce the travel effectively (I want to do this)? or does it cause other problems?
> 
> I have a 125mm but want a 100mm but they are hard to find. With my 380 x 125mm inserted fully in the frame it is just a bit too high at full extension. If I could make my post a 380 x 115mm for free, that would be great.


i think you will find it limits the travel at the bottom, not the top. meaning, the top will always be the top but it limits how far down it goes.

hope that makes sense. i don't know for sure, but i like your thinking!!


----------



## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

bushcat said:


> Not sure what you mean by that. I guess my main question is. If I ride with 9" showing, will the 380 be inserted far enough at that height? What's the max height of the 380mm? 380-80mm insertion?


Your ok with a 380mm. I've just measured mine from the bottom of the seat rail to the top of the seat tube 9" and there is still about 3" above the min. line. I got the 380mm bushcat


----------



## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

Was it like that before you serviced it? and is that why you took it apart?


----------



## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

picko990 said:


> g'day guys! new here!...
> 
> quick question....
> 
> ...


Did you service the post cuz of the problem? Or was it after you serviced it?


----------



## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

Cam. said:


> I've got a small amount of movement with the post part of my stealth reverb (in other words, the part which moves up and down). Is anyone else experiencing this?
> 
> The movement is only minimal and does not seem to be getting any worse. It's not the clamp or bolts holding the saddle in place, have tightened and inspected them thoroughly. And it isn't the 'outer housing' (which the post part moves in and out of) moving between the frame.
> 
> ...


I have the same thing. I called rockshox tech support and he said its normal to have a 1-3 mm sink. I think thats what your talking about. and a little side to side is normal too


----------



## DZANINOVICH1 (Feb 3, 2012)

*Looking for a part that I damaged during rebuild!*

I am looking for the part pictured in this screenshot. It attaches to the inner shaft, where the poppet is inserted.








It is labeled as "seal head" but the only "seal head" I can find is the "inner seal head".

Can anybody help me out?
Thank You!


----------



## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

DZANINOVICH1 said:


> I am looking for the part pictured in this screenshot. It attaches to the inner shaft, where the poppet is inserted.
> View attachment 1040960
> 
> 
> ...


Hello,

I'm slightly unsure on what this part is or looks like, so my help may be of little use. However I have provided a couple links to products which may resolve your issue.

Rock Shox Reverb Complete Service Kit A1
(Looking at the second item in the third row??) The product description suggests it contains "upper/inner seal head" and "Lower seal head assembly"... not sure if this is what you are after.

Dropper Seatpost Part - Bicycles and gear for every type of riding - Giant, Santa Cruz, Liv, Diamondback, Raleigh, Fox & more
This webpage provides a heap of parts and service kits which may contain the seal head - might take some time to shuffle through and search each product though.

X-Fusion Hilo SL and Hilo Strate Seal Head - Bicycles and gear for every type of riding - Giant, Santa Cruz, Liv, Diamondback, Raleigh, Fox & more
Found this seal head part for a X-fusion dropper post, could possibly fit the Rockshox dropper post too?

BTI | Seatpost Parts & Shims from Rock Shox (page 1)
Would be worthwhile searching through these products. I found some parts similar to the one in the graphic you provided, but again unsure. (No product descriptions are provided as well)

Is this the product you are after?

























Hope this helps


----------



## DZANINOVICH1 (Feb 3, 2012)

Cam. The pictures you have posted are the part I am looking for.


----------



## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

DZANINOVICH1 said:


> Cam. The pictures you have posted are the part I am looking for.


Ok, i'll continue to look for it online. Will post back if I found it.


----------



## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

DZANINOVICH1 said:


> I am looking for the part pictured in this screenshot. It attaches to the inner shaft, where the poppet is inserted.
> View attachment 1040960
> 
> 
> ...


Call sram tech line. 312-664-8800. And ask for the part number. They answer every time I call


----------



## DZANINOVICH1 (Feb 3, 2012)

Will do, thank you.
Thanks Cam


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## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

DZANINOVICH1 said:


> Will do, thank you.
> Thanks Cam


So I found the Rockshox spare parts catalogue for 2015 (2016 catalogue also available) which provides a detailed image of all parts and their corresponding names for the Rockshox Reverb and Reverb Stealth dropper posts. This will most likely outline which part and its name your looking for.

Link to spare parts list pdf - contains spare parts for all Rockshox products. The dropper post image is on page 6, and parts list is on page 8):
https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...lt/files/techdocs/2015_rockshox_spc_rev_a.pdf

Here is the image from that PDF (for Rockshox Reverb Stealth - Normal Reverb is on the pdf). Sorry that the image is difficult to read, it is due to scaling issues.









So from that image I found this part which looks similar to what you are looking for (its number 13). This particular part is found in the Lower Hose Barb Assembly Kit - Reverb Stealth (Product no. 11.6815.030.010).

Part:








Is this the part your wanting?

If it isn't the part your looking for, download the pdf to your computer (will make viewing it much clearer and easier) and have a look through the image. Each part is listed and numbered, so surely your particular part is there some where.

Hope this helps 

Update: On second thought i don't think this is the part... Googled the "Lower Hose Barb Assembly Kit" and the Seal head didn't appear to be included. I think the part in the image above actually points at the threaded black ring thing, not the entire housing.

Will require more googling and research. Thanks


----------



## DZANINOVICH1 (Feb 3, 2012)

Yes, that is the part I need, along with the larger piece that is also labeled "13" that threads onto the part you have pointed out.

Unfortunately, as you have pointed out, when you google the part something entirely different shows up!

I will call SRAM.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

How are you guys gripping the inner shaft tight enough to remove the seal head? 

I don't have a vice, and tongue/groove pliers don't seem to put enough force to hold it without marring the shaft.


----------



## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

PHeller said:


> How are you guys gripping the inner shaft tight enough to remove the seal head?
> 
> I don't have a vice, and tongue/groove pliers don't seem to put enough force to hold it without marring the shaft.


The only way I did that was with a vice with 2 2x4 wood blocks. Maybe you can use rubber in the grooves of the pliers Pheller.


----------



## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

DZANINOVICH1 said:


> Yes, that is the part I need, along with the larger piece that is also labeled "13" that threads onto the part you have pointed out.
> 
> Unfortunately, as you have pointed out, when you google the part something entirely different shows up!
> 
> I will call SRAM.


Yup. Sram will tell you the part number on the phone. I call them every time with questions. From my fork to shocks to drop post. Always friendly people on the phone. And if they dont know the answer, they will ask another tech too.


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## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

Any progress on finding the part?


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Laterilus said:


> Now, those important o-rings may last a year, maybe not. That is why I replace the dynamic ones (the ones that need to move a lot) with quad rings. My post a few pages back explain where to get them and what sizes.


I tried finding where Laterilus posted about replacing dynamic seals with quad rings. I got a basic rebuild kit for post that is losing air pressure quickly, but I'm thinking in the future I might just get important seals.

What does a quad ring even look like?


----------



## Captain Cobb (Mar 23, 2010)

Hi all, I just purchased a new Reverb Stealth, before installing the post I screwed a RS specific shock pump onto the schrader valve to confirm the 250psi as per spec. Pumped it up a few strokes, (it was at 200psi) not uncommon for hose loss, but when I unscrewed the hose it quickly lost all pressure. So I pumped it up again, same problem. I tried a second RS specific pump, same problem. Am I missing something or is the schrader valve faulty? I don't have a schrader valve tool, but I will get one. Any other tips or tricks?


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## Captain Cobb (Mar 23, 2010)

It looks like I can replace the whole unit, or wait on a warranty 
RockShox Reverb Stealth Air Valve Assembly | Shop Now at Worldwide Cyclery


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## Captain Cobb (Mar 23, 2010)

Problem solved. I pulled the valve out of the schrader Valve, and filed about 1mm off the tip of it. Put it all back together and it's fixed


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

aside from carbon fiber grip paste has anyone fixed the slipping post in an alloy frame? im 100% positive that i got the torque right.


----------



## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

spyghost said:


> aside from carbon fiber grip paste has anyone fixed the slipping post in an alloy frame? im 100% positive that i got the torque right.


Have you tried anti seize paste? I've never had problems with my alloy frame before.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

gocat said:


> Have you tried anti seize paste? I've never had problems with my alloy frame before.


nope, i haven't. i understand that antiseize is not grease, but is it suppose to add friction to reduce slippage?


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Welp, I mangled my Reverb Main Piston/Shaft (420mm x 100mm) with part numbers (from Universal Cycles) of Mfg#:11.6818.018.010, UPC:710845713453. Other #s:RS8254

Has anyone gotten these cheaper than from a retailer by ordering them through SRAM?


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

spyghost said:


> nope, i haven't. i understand that antiseize is not grease, but is it suppose to add friction to reduce slippage?


finally i've found an fsa paste from one lbs. let's see how things go this weekend...


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## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

PHeller said:


> Welp, I mangled my Reverb Main Piston/Shaft (420mm x 100mm) with part numbers (from Universal Cycles) of Mfg#:11.6818.018.010, UPC:710845713453. Other #s:RS8254
> 
> Has anyone gotten these cheaper than from a retailer by ordering them through SRAM?


SRAM will not sell direct. They will confirm part numbers but that is about it.


----------



## eshew (Jan 30, 2004)

Yeah my 125mm is about 150mm as well. Nevermind...I'm an idiot


----------



## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

PHeller said:


> What does a quad ring even look like?












If you've serviced a fox float series air shock from the past decade it's the main air seal. (just as an example of uses)


----------



## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

spyghost said:


> nope, i haven't. i understand that antiseize is not grease, but is it suppose to add friction to reduce slippage?


I think thats what i've heard. But maybe something is wrong with your clamp? I dont see why the post keeps slipping.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

gocat said:


> I think thats what i've heard. But maybe something is wrong with your clamp? I dont see why the post keeps slipping.


i was able to get fsa carbon paste.

went out for a ride last weekend. so far so good.

my clamp is shimano pro non qr. i might change later on to hope dropper clamp or salsa non qr whichever comes first. shops always loses stock of black ones


----------



## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

Help please:

Bought a used 2015 stealth on PB. Remote hose Barb was sheared off and stuck in the hose upon delivery. I bought a new one and a bleed kit, got everything ready for a bleed and afterwards it still doesn't actuate. Post seems to sag about an inch, I can pull up on the seat to extend it full and then it droops again. The remote being pressed makes no difference on the post extending up or sagging. Lastly, even with the remote pressed I can't seem to get the post down completely at all. It gets tough with about 3-4" inches still to go. Air pressure is at 230 or so.

Please anyone??


----------



## bisicklay (Jul 16, 2011)

Does anyone know if there's a mod to mount the Reverb remote on top of a Shimano brake mount (like it's set up to do with SRAM brakes)? Just looking to minimize stuff on my bar, and from playing around, that feels like the perfect place for my thumb-reach. 
Thanks for any help.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

bisicklay said:


> Does anyone know if there's a mod to mount the Reverb remote on top of a Shimano brake mount (like it's set up to do with SRAM brakes)? Just looking to minimize stuff on my bar, and from playing around, that feels like the perfect place for my thumb-reach.
> Thanks for any help.


none exists... the shape and mounting of the thumb switch itself makes it an engineering feat to integrate with ispec


----------



## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

coling said:


> Help please:
> 
> Bought a used 2015 stealth on PB. Remote hose Barb was sheared off and stuck in the hose upon delivery. I bought a new one and a bleed kit, got everything ready for a bleed and afterwards it still doesn't actuate. Post seems to sag about an inch, I can pull up on the seat to extend it full and then it droops again. The remote being pressed makes no difference on the post extending up or sagging. Lastly, even with the remote pressed I can't seem to get the post down completely at all. It gets tough with about 3-4" inches still to go. Air pressure is at 230 or so.
> 
> Please anyone??


Sounds like you need to take it apart inspect it and rebuilt it.


----------



## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

Should have replied. I bled a second time and I had forgot to finish my bleed with a focus on the remote portion. I funneled fluid in and out there a few times and it works well.


----------



## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

I searched this thread but didn't find what I was looking for...

fairly new Stealth, developed while in the extended position, post falls an inch or so, once weighted. Doesn't seem to effect lowering or full extension or speed....any suggestions on to why this is developing?


----------



## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

yeti575inCA said:


> I searched this thread but didn't find what I was looking for...
> 
> fairly new Stealth, developed while in the extended position, post falls an inch or so, once weighted. Doesn't seem to effect lowering or full extension or speed....any suggestions on to why this is developing?


If its new, warranty it. There should be no more then 3mm drop. Call Sram


----------



## speed6 (Aug 21, 2014)

Same issue here i rode this bike for a couple of times but lately i realised that the seatpost is acting like a suspension in th seat post.
Is it norma?l, i have aound 3 to 5mm and weight 72kg 

Could it be that befor it was solid?


----------



## grizzler (Mar 30, 2009)

Hey guys, quick question (I've searched but can only find information about sticky reverbs.):

Can anyone suggest what I can do to make my Reverb engage smoother? It seems to resist dropping and then goes pretty smoothly.


----------



## TheDwayyo (Dec 2, 2014)

Mine have all done that... Like a little lag behind when you push the remote to when it drops. It seems the angle you're on the saddle is a part of it, too much lateral force I'd guess. It also happens more when it's cold and the fluids are gummy. I am not aware of any fix.


----------



## thx247 (Dec 27, 2015)

Was it always that way?

If you loosen the seat post a touch and try it...any difference?

I noticed with my stealth- the seat post clamp really affects the dropping and raising of the seat.

My new seatpost issues were resolved when I bleed it again. I got a fair amount of air out and now it works great.


----------



## somanygoodbikes (Sep 9, 2011)

After three years and over 400 hours of use, I finally had to service my 2013 version. It had been getting slower, to the point where it was set to the fast end of the adjuster in order to move at a reasonable speed. Plus there was a few mm of vertical free play that you could feel when you weighted and unweighted the saddle. 

Pulling the poppet valve and topping the main oil chamber back up again eliminated the free play. Bleeding the line took care of the speed. 

Very happy with the Reverb, and very appreciative of folks who take their time to share info online about how to take care of them.


----------



## Spacer (Sep 4, 2010)

somanygoodbikes said:


> Pulling the poppet valve and topping the main oil chamber back up again eliminated the free play. Bleeding the line took care of the speed.


Thanks for your post. Couple questions for you.

Any idea where the missing oil went to?

And is it that easy to fix the notorious sag by just pulling the poppet and topping up?


----------



## grizzler (Mar 30, 2009)

It's torqued to 5nm, maybe I'll another bleed and loosen it a touch. Thanks!


----------



## picko990 (Dec 21, 2015)

hi guys. this one is for the technicians out there!!

i have a reverb stealth that is the newer version, maybe 2014. i am doing a service on it. the basic kit comes with a black seal and some o-rings for the inner seal head. it also has a separate bags with a thick black o-ring and a white washer that says, 'for new black inner seal head.

the original seal in that head is green. are you meant to replace the green seal with the black thick o-ring and white washer?

hope this makes sense.

cheers
jason


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

picko990 said:


> hi guys. this one is for the technicians out there!!
> 
> i have a reverb stealth that is the newer version, maybe 2014. i am doing a service on it. the basic kit comes with a black seal and some o-rings for the inner seal head. it also has a separate bags with a thick black o-ring and a white washer that says, 'for new black inner seal head.
> 
> ...


No that seal is for the regular reverb not the stealth. They don't actually supply the seal head seal for the stealth post in the basic service package.


----------



## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

Spacer said:


> Thanks for your post. Couple questions for you.
> 
> Any idea where the missing oil went to?
> 
> And is it that easy to fix the notorious sag by just pulling the poppet and topping up?


The oil leaked by the IFP. When it sags you may as well do all the seals since you have to rip it all apart anyways.


----------



## picko990 (Dec 21, 2015)

thanks Rick.

a bit silly they do not make a stealth basic kit.

i will have to take this up with sram.


----------



## Ducman (Feb 29, 2004)

My reverb is smooth if I press on the front of the seat, but binds if I press on the middle or rear. of the seat It returns smoothly and has been bleed. Time for a rebuild or another issue?


----------



## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

Ducman said:


> My reverb is smooth if I press on the front of the seat, but binds if I press on the middle or rear. of the seat It returns smoothly and has been bleed. Time for a rebuild or another issue?


Recently rebuilt my stealth, bought it used , and mine always bound up pressing down from middle and rear too for 1 year. Found Inner seal head bushing worn! Butter smooth afterwards. My buddy rebuilt his and same bushing worn/tore off.

I would think this bushing needs to be replace more often. This bushing rides up and down the outer housing. So I put alot of slick honey.


----------



## Ducman (Feb 29, 2004)

gocat said:


> Recently rebuilt my stealth, bought it used , and mine always bound up pressing down from middle and rear too for 1 year. Found Inner seal head bushing worn! Butter smooth afterwards. My buddy rebuilt his and same bushing worn/tore off.
> 
> I would think this bushing needs to be replace more often. This bushing rides up and down the outer housing. So I put alot of slick honey.


Thanks

Is the inner seal head bushing part of the basic service kit or do I need to get the full service kit?


----------



## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

Ducman said:


> Thanks
> 
> Is the inner seal head bushing part of the basic service kit or do I need to get the full service kit?


I dont know. I bought full kit. And now Ive got a spare full kit from ebay. Cuz it was on sale for around $22.47. I figured once every 2 years rebuild my stealth


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

Rick Draper said:


> No that seal is for the regular reverb not the stealth. They don't actually supply the seal head seal for the stealth post in the basic service package.


Lol I swapped that out with whatever big o ring they gave in kit and its working, whoops. No issues tho. Didn't use the white washer tho, just pulled out htat green one and shoved the big thick fat o ring back in there. Works like a charm haha.................so far.................is this thing gonna blow its wad now or what


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

and I noticed when the seat pops up it has a draggy noise to it. Possibly from the o ring instead of U cup... But it works like a charm, no sag, no issues


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Ducman said:


> My reverb is smooth if I press on the front of the seat, but binds if I press on the middle or rear. of the seat It returns smoothly and has been bleed. Time for a rebuild or another issue?


I had a same problem. The saddle was moving back and forth. I made a video and sent it to Internet shop where I got it. They asked me to send it back and Rockshox replaced it. The post was probably six months old at this time.


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## LunchRider (Oct 22, 2015)

Has anyone tried the aftermarket remote made my Novyparts?


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## picko990 (Dec 21, 2015)

good to know Yody...

has anyone else swapped out the green seal for this big black o-ring in your stealth post?

would be interested to hear how it is going.

cheers
jason



Yody said:


> Lol I swapped that out with whatever big o ring they gave in kit and its working, whoops. No issues tho. Didn't use the white washer tho, just pulled out htat green one and shoved the big thick fat o ring back in there. Works like a charm haha.................so far.................is this thing gonna blow its wad now or what


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## Ducman (Feb 29, 2004)

arnea said:


> I had a same problem. The saddle was moving back and forth. I made a video and sent it to Internet shop where I got it. They asked me to send it back and Rockshox replaced it. The post was probably six months old at this time.


I spoke to the online shop were I ordered mine, described the issue and now Sram is sending a new post


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

LunchRider said:


> Has anyone tried the aftermarket remote made my Novyparts?


Yes, I have two of them. I will never go back to a standard remote now.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Rick Draper said:


> Yes, I have two of them. I will never go back to a standard remote now.


Do you use front derailleur? I've looked at Novyparts remote but it looks like it is hard to use it with front shifter.


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## 274898 (Nov 29, 2005)

Does anybody know why RockShox says "Caution. If you seatpost compresses you must send it in to RS for service. Do not attempt to rebuild."?

My RS Reverb had a problem compressing about 1/2 inch when you sat on it. Was going to do a full rebuild. However, check the pressure and it was at 150 psi. Filled it up to 250 psi. It still compressed so then I did a bleed. After the bleed the compression issue is gone. Locks solidly in place.


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## Spacer (Sep 4, 2010)

aliikane said:


> Does anybody know why RockShox says "Caution. If you seatpost compresses you must send it in to RS for service. Do not attempt to rebuild."?
> 
> My RS Reverb had a problem compressing about 1/2 inch when you sat on it. Was going to do a full rebuild. However, check the pressure and it was at 150 psi. Filled it up to 250 psi. It still compressed so then I did a bleed. After the bleed the compression issue is gone. Locks solidly in place.


I believe they are just covering their asses. If someone gets hurt doing a rebuild.
I had the same question and someone on this forum suggested I do a rebuild. A rebuild fixed the sagging problem.


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## LunchRider (Oct 22, 2015)

Where did you order your novyparts remote from?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

arnea said:


> Do you use front derailleur? I've looked at Novyparts remote but it looks like it is hard to use it with front shifter.


No I run 1x11.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Ok, looks like original remote is only option with front derailleur. I have it between brake and shifter clamps. It is very tight fit and the derailleur is more inboard than I like, but it's not too bad.


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

arnea said:


> Ok, looks like original remote is only option with front derailleur. I have it between brake and shifter clamps. It is very tight fit and the derailleur is more inboard than I like, but it's not too bad.


Could you have installed the remote next to the grip?


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

gocat said:


> Could you have installed the remote next to the grip?


Then it's too close to hand and I cannot depress it without releasing the grip. It's safer the way it is - front derailleur operation timing is not critical and usually I can select moment when it is safe to move the hand.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Any suggestions for where to send a Reverb someplace (preferably Arizona) where they will not only do a full service, but also replace any damaged parts or update any parts that may improve reliability? 

I kinda bodged my rebuild and rather than buying parts and risking messing it up more, I think I'd rather send it to have professionally rebuilt and damaged parts replaced by someone with experience.


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## c3024446 (Apr 16, 2010)

I'm after a bit of encouragement:

I bought a broken reverb (V1) off someone and wanted to fix it as a project. I have done the full rebuild, and I just can't fix it. Had to replace the top cap since there was heaps of play, did the basic seal kit too.

The main issue i have it is sinks slowly under load. Pushing the button it pops back up to full extension, but will slowly sink with weight on it. It sinks all the way, not just 2".

I've replaced the poppet valve and o-rings at the top of the post, played around with the oil height in the top of the post - I think it's sinking because the oil height was too low so the valve could let oil move without the button being pushed- but I've used the correct oil tool. I've experimented with overfilling the top of the post, but when i push the button it won't drop at all now.

Also, with the many times i have had to bleed the lever, i have ruined the tiny o-ring that goes under the bleed screw, so that's another thing i will have to fix now.

Is the post beyond fixing?


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## Gangstel (Dec 21, 2015)

I have Rock Shox Reverb (mine is 2011 year as I know). Oil leaks from place between lever and hose from hose barb. 







Where could be the problem in? I suppose the it's in bad fitting of hose to lever. I think I messed up it when shortering hose. But maybe the problem in worn-out hose barb or in hose itself?


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## c3024446 (Apr 16, 2010)

Gangstel said:


> I have Rock Shox Reverb (mine is 2011 year as I know). Oil leaks from place between lever and hose from hose barb.
> View attachment 1052436
> 
> Where could be the problem in? I suppose the it's in bad fitting of hose to lever. I think I messed up it when shortering hose. But maybe the problem in worn-out hose barb or in hose itself?


If you have shortened the hose by using the cutting along the barb method, you have probably scratched the barb. The newer posts have a barb that you can screw into the hose.


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## Kenric (Jun 15, 2015)

Guys, I have a 150mm Reverb that came fitted on my new bike bought this past November. I noticed today when i was taking the bike out it had this back n fort play,maybe not as bad yet as the one in the video but its there, I had no Idea the reverb had these issues until reading a few pages of this thread tonight.
Being outside the US and having to send the post in for repair or replacement would have me off my bike for a few weeks and put a hurt on my riding time since we ride 5 to all days of the week most of the time. 
so for you who rebuild you self what specific part need to be replaced to eliminate the back n fort play? can it be bought without having to buy the whole service kit?

Thanks!



arnea said:


> Do you also have back and forth play? This is how much my post had:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

Kenric said:


> Guys, I have a 150mm Reverb that came fitted on my new bike bought this past November. I noticed today when i was taking the bike out it had this back n fort play,maybe not as bad yet as the one in the video but its there, I had no Idea the reverb had these issues until reading a few pages of this thread tonight.
> Being outside the US and having to send the post in for repair or replacement would have me off my bike for a few weeks and put a hurt on my riding time since we ride 5 to all days of the week most of the time.
> so for you who rebuild you self what specific part need to be replaced to eliminate the back n fort play? can it be bought without having to buy the whole service kit?
> 
> Thanks!


All depends on how hard your pushing it back and forth. I rebuilt mine with a new head cap( even though ,my old head cap was ok) and it has some back and forth, but nothing crazy like the one in the video. Mine looked like the video BEFORE the rebuild. Mine works fine now, after the rebuild. Smooth going down and up. I've noticed after a couple of rebuilds with mine and my friends. The inner seal head bushing go bad. Bad design in my opinion. Maybe go with needle bearings like the KS drop post. 
One way to find out if the inner seal head bushing is really bad OR/AND head cap bushing is, when pushing down on the saddle there is so much resistance either from the front of the saddle OR from the back of the saddle. But if all is smooth with your pushing either side. Its probably ok. The inner shaft (the shaft bolted to the saddle) Rides up and down from the top head cap bushing, 3 brass pins and inner seal head bushing, inside housing (the housing thats clamped on to the frames post clamp) Thats it. 
If not satisfied , check with the place you bought the bike.


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

c3024446 said:


> I'm after a bit of encouragement:
> 
> I bought a broken reverb (V1) off someone and wanted to fix it as a project. I have done the full rebuild, and I just can't fix it. Had to replace the top cap since there was heaps of play, did the basic seal kit too.
> 
> ...


Have you checked the air pressure?


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

arnea said:


> Then it's too close to hand and I cannot depress it without releasing the grip. It's safer the way it is - front derailleur operation timing is not critical and usually I can select moment when it is safe to move the hand.


I use my drop post way more then my front shifter, thats why i have mine next to the grip.


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## c3024446 (Apr 16, 2010)

gocat said:


> Have you checked the air pressure?


Yeah, it holds pressure. Just seems like the hydraulic lock doesn't work properly.


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

gocat said:


> I use my drop post way more then my front shifter, thats why i have mine next to the grip.


I see.. have you tried calling sram? You can talk to a tech right away. Maybe they can help you


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## c3024446 (Apr 16, 2010)

So my post holds air - but the hydraulic lock just will not work. Weighting the post makes it slowly sink all the way down over about 5 minutes. It's a V1 post, so has to be a problem with the silver poppet valve.

Maybe my procedure is wrong:
With all the air removed from the post, and with the poppet valve chamber open, I've used the oil height tool to get the correct oil height. I push the poppet valve in with pliers, and the top of the valve stops just above the bleed opening. If I turn the valve 90 degrees or so I can push it down further so it sits 3mm or so below the bleed opening, is this wrong and have I pushed it too far?

I'm thinking my next step may be to try a V2 (black) poppet valve? Using the V2 valve may allow a greater tolerance in oil height, and may be a better design to stop this leakage?

The other thing that could be wrong is the upper post internal hole where the poppet valve goes into is damaged - then the post would need to go in the bin I guess&#8230;.

The below seems to show the poppet valve needs to be just below the bleed opening - i'm struggling to achieve this with the oil height set with the correct tool.










How the post works, I must just have the valve in the wrong place.









V1 valve









V2 Valve


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## Trailstunter (Mar 15, 2016)

Hey bikers.. having two reverb stealths with several times back for warranty but the issue of vertical play is still coming back. I read a lot here on the thead, and that after a rebuild the issue is mostly gone. 
But what I did not read is what is the cause of the issue? How is the reverb developing play? Does anyone know that? 
I hope when knowing the cause, we can make a easier solution for it.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Hopefully the new revisions will make them easier to rebuild.


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

PHeller said:


> Hopefully the new revisions will make them easier to rebuild.


Awesome cut out! Is the new revision compatible with old stealth?


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

I have no idea. I got the image from Pinkbike. Should've credited them first.


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

internals will not be interchangeable. Now 30.9 is available with 150mm and 170mm travel as well!


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## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

Looks like they simplified things some as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

From that pic, it looks like they thinned the upper tube's walls and added some thin inner liner. Weren't some big guys bending the posts? Are they thinking that spacing out the bushings more solves that problem and allows the weight weenification? Or did they need to make room for that new IFP?


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

external will remain at 100-125 only... pity...


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## T3mppu (Sep 8, 2015)

*c3024446:*
Based on your description, I would guess that you have pushed the pop-it-valve too deep.

The volume inside the remote system that operates the valve is fixed --> the pop-it-valve can never rise fully up (=closed) after you have bled it while the valve was down.

You could try to fix it just by extending the post, then open the bleeding port from the post and put weight on it, this hopefully would allow the pop-it-valve to rise to fully closed position.

I did my own A1 internal bleed without removing the pop-it-valve as I do not have the bleed tools. Procedure described in RockShox Reverb rebuild (without Reverb bleed tools) ? T3mppu.kapsi.fi

It is a pity that RockShox provides the instructions for non-shadow posts only as a video, so I gathered screenshots to provide a step by step instructions for garage:
http://t3mppu.kapsi.fi/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/RockShox_Reverb_Rebuild_rev1.pdf


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Really good stuff, thanks. And the remote fixing article was also good: Fixing reverb remote with bent piston & broken bushing ? T3mppu.kapsi.fi

Btw, has somebody tried to use hydraulic brake lever instead of stock remote?


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## NoradMTB (Jan 31, 2016)

Anyone know when the new reverb 2016 will be released ? If it is, where can we grab one ? Does SRAM have them produced right now ?


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## dreys (Jan 21, 2014)

NoradMTB said:


> Anyone know when the new reverb 2016 will be released ? If it is, where can we grab one ? Does SRAM have them produced right now ?


It is available now. PM me if you need one.


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## Kenric (Jun 15, 2015)

Guys, my reverb have now developed besides the slight back n fort play and now has a bit of sag when weighted down, about 4mm. 
I haven't checked the PSI yet. But I read where a bleed could solve the sag. What are your opinions ?
Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## LunchRider (Oct 22, 2015)

Kenric said:


> Guys, my reverb have now developed besides the slight back n fort play and now has a bit of sag when weighted down about 4mm.
> I haven't checked the PSI yet. But I read where a bleed could solve the sag. What are your opinions ?
> Thanks!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I bleed kit is cheap and you can find how to videos on line to do it yourself.
Try that before you do anything.


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## LaXCarp (Jul 19, 2008)

My post does that a few mm also. I just did a bleed on it this weekend which did not seem to fix the problem. It really doesnt both me too much.

I feel I remember reading on here that it has to do with oil or air migrating beyond a seal and to top the internal oil level off.


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## Kenric (Jun 15, 2015)

The sag is not that much really just by siting on it and pedaling around the garage but i fear its going to get worst or while out on the trail it might be sagging more than just sitting on it here at home. Here is a pic with cable tie wrap to see the sag.









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## boots (Aug 15, 2008)

Pretty typical. Sometimes they last a month or two, sometimes a year, but definitely not a reliable product. And difficult to fix too. Even some of the best shops won't service them. I have sent mine back to rockshox in chicago twice under warranty. 


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## LaXCarp (Jul 19, 2008)

Results may vary I guess. I have been using mine non-stop since 2012 with no issues. I bled it for the 2nd time this past weekend for no real reason. 

It does squat a couple mm when I sit on it, but I'm not that sensitive to that kind of stuff. I'm too busy hucking my meat to flat.

It still allows for 125mm of saddle range....


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## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

This is air/fluid leaking by the IFP. Bleed that remote until your hands hurt and it will do nothing. Post needs to come apart and at very least have IFP seals replaced. Not hard but tedious.

If you own a Reverb always be sure to have an enduro collar. Especially if you are sagging. If it lets go you can at least clamp it at full extension and finish the ride.



Kenric said:


> The sag is not that much really just by siting on it and pedaling around the garage but i fear its going to get worst or while out on the trail it might be sagging more than just sitting on it here at home. Here is a pic with cable tie wrap to see the sag.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

Kenric said:


> The sag is not that much really just by siting on it and pedaling around the garage but i fear its going to get worst or while out on the trail it might be sagging more than just sitting on it here at home. Here is a pic with cable tie wrap to see the sag.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ive got the same problem before the rebuild and after. Called sram tech line and said its normal to sag up to 5mm. I would say mine sags about 3mm. Ive haad mine now for almost two years. 1 rebuild. working fine.


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## T3mppu (Sep 8, 2015)

Kenric said:


> Guys, my reverb have now developed besides the slight back n fort play and now has a bit of sag when weighted down, about 4mm.
> I haven't checked the PSI yet. But I read where a bleed could solve the sag. What are your opinions ?
> Thanks!


Is there also play from side to side?
You will also probably need new bushings as they are the parts that prevent the post



jpickus said:


> Pretty typical. Sometimes they last a month or two, sometimes a year, but definitely not a reliable product. And difficult to fix too. Even some of the best shops won't service them. I have sent mine back to rockshox in chicago twice under warranty.


It is not that hard to fix, many here have rebuilt their Reverbs, me included.
I did mine without the reverb (internal) bleed tools.
I would guess that the shops don't want to take responsibility of the reverbs as they can fail again, so best not take them at all.



piperpilot964 said:


> This is air/fluid leaking by the IFP. Bleed that remote until your hands hurt and it will do nothing. Post needs to come apart and at very least have IFP seals replaced. Not hard but tedious.
> 
> If you own a Reverb always be sure to have an enduro collar. Especially if you are sagging. If it lets go you can at least clamp it at full extension and finish the ride.


I thought it was the piston seal that fails, but I guess if IFP leaks, then the air would go on top and from there to the piston chamber.

Good idea about the enduro collar, I must put mine next to my other tools in my riding bag :thumbsup:


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Anybody know how to fix the issues with the post not dropping unless you unweight it and weight it again? It's as though it's getting "hung up", and I need to awkwardly shift my weight forward in order to get it to drop. 

Maybe I need to bleed the remote again to get a better release.


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## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

Not buying that any sag is acceptable. Mine had zero sag new and zero sag after rebuild. I believe if the you still have sag, there is too much oil in the inner shaft. Step 15 page 25 in the service manual. Good luck.



gocat said:


> Ive got the same problem before the rebuild and after. Called sram tech line and said its normal to sag up to 5mm. I would say mine sags about 3mm. Ive haad mine now for almost two years. 1 rebuild. working fine.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

I rebuilt mine and I'm a hack. No sag.


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## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

My suggestion would be another remote bleed. I bleed slightly differently....

1-Mount the bleed syringes with the oil full one on the post side.
2-Push the oil through until remote syringe is full. 
3-Pull remote syringe and reinstall the plug.
4-Pull post syringe and make sure you are a bit sloppy meaning, leave the port dripping w oil.
5-Install full syringe on post side.
6-Mount remote syringe and repeat step 2
7-Pull both syringes, remote side first and plug remote, then post side.

This pushes oil in one direction, from bottom to top and should push all the air out. No chance of bouncing an air bubble around in the middle.

Good luck.


PHeller said:


> Anybody know how to fix the issues with the post not dropping unless you unweight it and weight it again? It's as though it's getting "hung up", and I need to awkwardly shift my weight forward in order to get it to drop.
> 
> Maybe I need to bleed the remote again to get a better release.


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## Kenric (Jun 15, 2015)

I checked the PSI and it was slightly lower than 250 around 240, I topped it off and cycle the post fully down n up a few times and now the sag is less, around 2mm at most. I also placed an O-ring on it so i can keep an eye on it while out on the trails.
I'm still going to order a full service kit and necessary tools for a rebuild but theres two different service kits A1 and A2, mines just have what im assuming a serial number but no A1 or A2?









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## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

Call Rock shock and talk to them. Give them the serial on the post and they will give you the part number for the right kit. I believe the A2 kit is what they will recommend. It has a new IFP with a slightly different seal design.


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## Hillridge (Jan 22, 2010)

I did a full rebuild last night, and while it seems to have made things a lot better (it was totally shot before, leaking oil, etc.), It only extends 1/2-2/3 of the way now. The only thing I can think of is that oil dripped out of the bleed tool for a bit after I set the IFP height, so maybe the inner tube oil level is lower than it should be. I didn't draw out any extra oil with the oil height tool either.

Is this likely the cause, or should I look for something else? I'm assuming I'll need to tear it back down to the bleeding step and try again.

Two other things:
1. I got the full rebuild kit, and I seem to have a spare white nylon washer. It's not mentioned in any of the 4 rebuild videos, and I didn't remove one from my post. What is this for?

2. The videos say there is a washer that goes between the poppet cap and the snap ring, but I did not see one on my post and there is no play in the poppet cap or obvious room to add a washer. Is this normal? The cap did fly off and hilariously hit me in the head when i first removed the snap ring, so it is possible I lost the washer. I don't remember seeing one at all though.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

Kill me if you like but I didn't read all 2000+ posts in this thread. I have read a little but I'm hoping someone can give me some insight. I have a reverb, non stealth, I got from merlin cycles a year ago. it's just now starting to sag a little. maybe 5 mm but it's weird bc sometimes it doesn't seem to do it as bad as others. I mess with drivetrain stuff, brakes, anything that bolts on really. I haven't ever messed with suspension. I'm under the impression that this will only get worse and maybe even just stay stuck down at some point so I'd like to address it soon. my lbs has a great rep and has always done quality work for me when I need it, despite buying most of my parts online. they said they haven't done a lot of these but have done it before and gave me an estimate of 50 to 75 to rebuild. So I'm just looking for advice as to weather I take a stab at it myself, reach out to merlin, or just pay lbs?


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## Hillridge (Jan 22, 2010)

To do the rebuild yourself you're going to need ~$40 worth of tools and another $10 for the kit. More if you don't have a bleed kit already, because you have to bleed it after too. 

I got mine to work tonight, I just hadn't set the piston in far enough when I set the IFP last time. I re-did it and now it is rock solid and has full travel. If you have the right tools, pay attention to the videos, and enjoy this kind of thing it's not too bad. If you don't, I'd let the LBS do it.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

$50-$75 for the shop to do it is totally worth it. 

I got a basic rebuild seal kit for $8. 

Marred the seal head and air shaft by trying to grip them with rubber coated pliers. Unsuccessful. $33 later I had new seal head and air shaft.

Bought soft jaws for $18. 

Already had a bleed kit. $15?

When it all went back together it needed a new bleed, but otherwise is rock solid (no sag).


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## cuba (Apr 11, 2016)

Has anyone had the issue where the seatpost just dropped completely on them during a ride without pressing the remote? Ive done a lot of searching and googling and it seems most issues have to do with sag and remote bleeding. Couldnt find any post on this thread with the same issue i'm having.
I successfully rebuilt my 2014 reverb stealth 3 months ago with the basic A2 kit to fix the infamous sag issue. Worked great since then until now.
The other day I was riding and the seat dropped completely without warning while weighted. It would pop right back up as soon as i unweighted it. It also supported some of my weight the rest of the ride back to the parking lot. But if I put all my weight on it (160lbs) it would drop completely again.
The remote doesnt to do anything. I bled the remote and it feels like it should be working fine. However, i cant get the post to lock in any position. I noticed the air pressure was a little low when i got back home, so I pumped it back up to 250psi. It seems to be holding that air pressure. But that did not help the issue of the seat dropping without actuating the remote.
Did I blow an o-ring? If so, which one? And is this something the basic kit will repair?
Thanks all.


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## Fisherman166 (Oct 11, 2015)

Is it worth paying $80 more for the stealth version over the standard version if my bike supports it? The only things I can find that support the stealth are: 1. it looks cleaner 2. the cable can't snag on anything. Other than those 2 things, is the stealth any different from the standard internally?


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## mopes (Mar 8, 2011)

Can anyone direct me to the part number I'll need to replace the reverb connectamajig with a standard barb fitting on the bottom of the post? 

Going to order a 170 reverb stealth in 30.9 for my following but clearance is super tight so I'll have to replace the connectamajig with a standard barb fitting to make it work. 

I know a few guys out there have done this, can anyone help me out?


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## T3mppu (Sep 8, 2015)

It sounds like your pop-it-open valve could be stuck in open position.

The part that supports your weight and controls the height of the post, is the oil on top (or below on shadow) of the piston head inside piston tube.

The remote controls the valve to add or remove oil.

Oil is added as IFP presses oil into the piston tube when you are not sitting on it and when sitting on it, your weight counteracts the air pressure and the piston pushes oil from the piston tube to the IFP and IFP moves.

So if the valve is stuck in the open position, the oil is free to move between the piston- and ifp tubes --> seatpost does not hold position.

Other thing that comes to mind, is an unlikely event that your piston head seal is bust and maybe the IFP is stuck over the holes that allow air pressure in to the IFP tube. 
Then oil would not be moving into the piston tube and you would be sitting only on pressurized air.

Difference between the cases would be, that in stuck valve the oil is moving and the dropping down should be linear when in the second case it would be progressive as you would effectively compress an airspring.

In second case you probably would also have leaked oil inside the airchamber, check by de-pressurising the post, removing the valve core and see if there is a lot of leaked oil inside the air chamber.



cuba said:


> Has anyone had the issue where the seatpost just dropped completely on them during a ride without pressing the remote? Ive done a lot of searching and googling and it seems most issues have to do with sag and remote bleeding. Couldnt find any post on this thread with the same issue i'm having.
> I successfully rebuilt my 2014 reverb stealth 3 months ago with the basic A2 kit to fix the infamous sag issue. Worked great since then until now.
> The other day I was riding and the seat dropped completely without warning while weighted. It would pop right back up as soon as i unweighted it. It also supported some of my weight the rest of the ride back to the parking lot. But if I put all my weight on it (160lbs) it would drop completely again.
> The remote doesnt to do anything. I bled the remote and it feels like it should be working fine. However, i cant get the post to lock in any position. I noticed the air pressure was a little low when i got back home, so I pumped it back up to 250psi. It seems to be holding that air pressure. But that did not help the issue of the seat dropping without actuating the remote.
> ...


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

I picked up a Reverb stealth seatpost off of pinkbike. The add says its using the new internals. Is there anyway to find out from the serial number if it is indeed a newer seat post. I dont feel like opening the post up. lol

2016 Rockshox Reverb Stealth 31.6mm, 125 travel For Sale


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## pukki81 (Apr 15, 2016)

Ok ill post my question here too, my new stealth isnt extending properly. Can i check the air pressure?

DO NOT attempt to adjust air pressure using the air valve located at the bottom of the seatpost. Any change in the factory air pressure setting will render the seatpost inoperable, requiring full service


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

pukki81 said:


> DO NOT attempt to adjust air pressure using the air valve located at the bottom of the seatpost. Any change in the factory air pressure setting will render the seatpost inoperable, requiring full service


Where are you seeing this? Do you have a new 2016 post?


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## pukki81 (Apr 15, 2016)

PHeller said:


> Where are you seeing this? Do you have a new 2016 post?


I dont know what model it is, had the new connectamajig type black connector on the bottom of the seatpost.

Saw the quote on: https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/reverb-stealth
User Manual - Reverb Stealth Rev D (7.28 MB)
And there it is in the second chapter of text after the image.
Dunno why its there if its bogus. Dont know what heck is Rev D.


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## dberndt (Apr 17, 2010)

There is no air valve on the bottom of the stealth. It's at the top under the saddle mount... 

You can let the pressure out and re-add if you want. But do not compress the post at all when it has no (or little) air pressure.

What do you mean by not extending properly?...


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## cuba (Apr 11, 2016)

T3mppu said:


> It sounds like your pop-it-open valve could be stuck in open position.
> 
> The part that supports your weight and controls the height of the post, is the oil on top (or below on shadow) of the piston head inside piston tube.
> 
> ...


Thanks T3mppu.
I serviced the post this weekend using the basic A2 service kit and all is well now (at least in the garage...have not taken it out on a ride yet). I'm thinking the poppet valve was maybe slightly stuck in the open position as you mentioned. I couldnt tell why it may have done this. The only o-ring i found to be really damaged was on the outside of inner seal head.


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## [email protected]@ (Jul 12, 2015)

Quick question for anyone running a Reverb Stealth w/ connectamajig.

I'm looking to purchase the new 2016 480mm version because it'll offer optimal riding height and drop. I've made all the right measurements and it looks like this post will fit perfectly. However, I'm worried that the connectamajig will put the hydraulic housing below my frame's stealth port ('16 Honzo ST). Could anyone toss me the measured length from the bottom of the post to the end of the connectamajig? Otherwise, any input and/ or suggestions?

Thanks!


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

caRpetbomBer said:


> I picked up a Reverb stealth seatpost off of pinkbike. The add says its using the new internals. Is there anyway to find out from the serial number if it is indeed a newer seat post. I dont feel like opening the post up. lol
> 
> 2016 Rockshox Reverb Stealth 31.6mm, 125 travel For Sale


The new model has 'rockshox' written at the top of the inner shaft, pretty sure the one pictured is the old model.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

The new one is longer in length too, 10mm longer overall.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

Yeah i noticed the 2016 versions are a different length. 125mm travel are 390mm long. I still got a good deal on the older post. But i ended also getting the wrong size lol.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

external droppers still have a max of 125mm... pity 150 would be great though...


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## rentalrider (Apr 23, 2016)

Put one on my CAAD1 a week ago. Stealth version. Why did I wait so long? Love it so far...


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## denjen (Jan 30, 2004)

Just put a new 2016 Stealth with 150mm drop on my bike. Installation was pretty easy with the connectamajig. This post replaces an external routed 125 model that I've had for years with all of the usual troubles. I wasn't planning on getting another Reverb, but a local shop made me an offer I couldn't refuse. Only one ride so far, and everything feels good. I'm loving the 150 drop vs the 125. I will check back in once I've had it for a while for a long term review.


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## pacesi (Sep 22, 2012)

I just recently bought an Evil Wreckoning medium size, which uses the 34.9. The seat post tube is so low on the frame that the 150 is good for me as long as is full insertion. I am at the edge of the limit of the 150 and on the short side of the 125. I am familiar with almost all post gravity, Giant contact, specialized and at least 3 models of KS and first generation of reverb.
In terms of speed, adjustability and feeling. The reverb is the post. There is room for improvement on the lever and i dont have a problem with it being hydraulic. 
In the past I have been perfectly happy with 125mm in other bikes like yeti's but on this one, 150mm travel is in order.
I bought the 2016 RS stealth 34.9 150 but only comes on 440mm vs 2015 430mm ( I tested the 2015 on the wreckoning tester prior of buying it and it worked out)
the 2016 only gives me 29 inches bottom bracket to top of seat and I need 27.5.
My questions are: 
Any significant differences on performance from the point of view of you guys, the usersfor the 2015 vs the 2016?, I am asking beyond the marketing specs issued by sram. Any reason I should'nt go with 2015?
Any way to bypass the black connectmajig thing so is shorter in the interface of the tube post and the hose? Wreck is very short and curved seat tube. I only have 225mm insertion on the seat post and the hydraulic connection is on the way and is very long.
I appreciate any ideas.


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## denjen (Jan 30, 2004)

I was worried about the connectmajig when I was installing mine also, thankfully it all worked out. If you look on page 7 and 40 of the manual it shows that a regular hose barb can be used to replace the connectmajig set up. This should give you an inch or two to play with.

https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...b_stealth_b1_service_manual_rev_a_english.pdf


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## mopes (Mar 8, 2011)

Brand new 170 30.9. Installed it today and got stuck fully compressed almost immediately. Off to a great start. ****. 

Looks like I'm gonna have to reinstall the command post and warranty this POS before I even get to ride it.


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## mopes (Mar 8, 2011)

mopes said:


> Brand new 170 30.9. Installed it today and got stuck fully compressed almost immediately. Off to a great start. ****.
> 
> Looks like I'm gonna have to reinstall the command post and warranty this POS before I even get to ride it.


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## Mike232 (Mar 14, 2015)

Looking to buy a new 2016 Stealth (b1) seatpost. Want to have actuator on left side under bar. Is the new Stealth (b1) actuator the same as previous and would I need to buy a right hand version to run on left side under bar?


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## denjen (Jan 30, 2004)

Mike232 said:


> Looking to buy a new 2016 Stealth (b1) seatpost. Want to have actuator on left side under bar. Is the new Stealth (b1) actuator the same as previous and would I need to buy a right hand version to run on left side under bar?


Yes, you need a right hand version.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Any idea on how to make the remote more sensitive or require less effort?

I feel like I've gotta jam the button the whole way in to get the thing to release. I've bled it numerous times and its always like this. Requires wayyyy to much effort. Isn't it supposed to benefit from hydraulic leverage!?!


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## Mike232 (Mar 14, 2015)

denjen said:


> Yes, you need a right hand version.


Thx


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## Bahamut2119 (Apr 22, 2016)

As mentioned in a thread i posted a bit ago im concerned about the reliability of the reverb has it improved? most of the reviews i've seen are a few years old.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

In short, no. It all depends on how heavy you are, what type of conditions you ride, what your STA (seat tube angle) is and a bit of luck.

Some people hop on brand new Reverbs and don't have any issues for 2+ years.

Others have issues immediately. 

The 2016 models are too new for a good indicator of reliability.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

To chime in with a Positive report, I had my first Reverb (external routing, 125mm, 30.9) from Mid-2012 through to early 2016 and never had an issue. It did develop about 3mm of sag about 3 years in, but the quick service with the Basic Seal Kit got it back perfect. Sold it on with that bike and I gather it's still working fine 

I'm now on a Reverb Stealth for a few months and it's been perfect too. It's 150mm 31.6.

For reference, I'm about 72kg, ride fairly technical trails. STA on both bikes is 71 and 73 deg.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

I bought my Reverb used, previous owner had it rebuild and I got two season out of it before needing another rebuild. 

In my ownership I've never had the remote be consistent. I wish they would have ditched the hydraulic remote for the new version. 

I'd love it if someone knew a hack for making the remote more sensitive and lighter action.


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## Bahamut2119 (Apr 22, 2016)

Sounds like then I should head in the ks route i'm 200 lbs I tend to ride pretty rocky/rooty trails I live in new england idc where you try to shovel you will hit a rock pretty good sized one i bet I could take a little 1/4 in marking pole out to my yard and have a real hard time driving into the ground just about anywhere thanks.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

I don't know if KS is anymore reliable. It's actually quite similar to the Reverb.

If I was buying today I'd be looking at the 9point8 or Crank Bros Highline. The Highline has a replaceable cartridge which means that if and when it starts to fail you just get another (under warranty). There are quite companies who will be doing something similar with replaceable cartridges.


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## Bahamut2119 (Apr 22, 2016)

Hmm @ 350 I could probably get the highline I have 2750 to get a bike and some accessories a dropper is the biggest thing I want for it but i'm pretty sure I have no way to route anything internal in the bike im gonna get a cannondale habit. I cant get the bike till next week hopefully monday so I got time to look around the 9point8 is outta my price range unless I go for a cheaper bike. I really dont wanna go cheaper what i'm looking at comes in a 2199 has a mix deore/slx 2x10 drivetrain deore hydros shadow+ slx rear, tubeless tires/rims already setup, recon gold front w/remote lockout already installed and a monarch rl rear. To me that means add a dropper and maybe swap my bars to my race face riser I just got and go.

Just looked on ebay there ain't anything for 9point8 droppers and the joplin is the only crank bro one i saw and it from what I was just reading is no better then the reverb for reliability + its only 75mm drop I want at least 100 but 125mm prefered.


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## rentalrider (Apr 23, 2016)

I have a couple hundred fairly hard miles on mine (still fairly new). It's 150mm 31.6 stealth. I weigh 115kg. Been flawless so far. Love it. On a fatbike fwiw.


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## Bahamut2119 (Apr 22, 2016)

rentalrider said:


> I have a couple hundred fairly hard miles on mine (still fairly new). It's 150mm 31.6 stealth. I weigh 115kg. Been flawless so far. Love it. On a fatbike fwiw.


Hmm you got some weight on me about 25kg and I am actively dropping weight usually 2-5 lbs (1-2 kg) a week right now. I'm not a real hard rider but i'm trying I just want a dropper that will hold up without me having to rip it apart every few months preferably from a company I know.


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## olivermajewski (Dec 17, 2006)

This might help some of the DIYers on here

The Seatpost Whisperer | Blue Liquid Labs


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

So after 2 months on a rebuild that seemed to be doing fine, my Reverb has once again Bit the Shed. I was in Moab having a great time, luckily I've got a decent amount of seat tube so I could run the dead Reverb higher.

Anyway, I started checking around town to see if anyone could rebuild this thing in a pinch overnight, and one of the local shops said the following:

"It would cost $100 in labor, but another $80 in parts because we're trying to use the new parts retrofitted to the old posts for better reliability." 

This to me sounded like a load of bull. What parts would they be talking about that are drastically different than old parts enough to change reliability without being from the new 2016 posts (which I understand share very few parts in common with the Pre-2016 posts). 

I think if we change the main seal with a normal o-ring instead of the u-cup seal or use bushings like Blue Liquid Labs, you've pretty much done all you can do to make this thing reliable.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Anybody know the seals responsible for keeping oil and air inside the post? 

Mine is leaking both oil and air from the bottom (where the schrader valve is). Adding air just has it coming straight out again.


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## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

I had a 2014 reverb stealth A1 for two years until it started sagging and not returning on cold days, or after being compressed down for 10-15min. Still debating what to do about it, rebuild?

Now I just got a brand new 2017 B1 reverb stealth a few weeks ago and now after only a few rides it's sagging several mm! I bled it three separate times and no change. The lever feels solid and returns fine, just won't hold the first several mm of lift. Does this sound like a warranty return? Or am I missing some procedure to fix it?


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

SonomaBiker said:


> I had a 2014 reverb stealth A1 for two years until it started sagging and not returning on cold days, or after being compressed down for 10-15min. Still debating what to do about it, rebuild?
> 
> Now I just got a brand new 2017 B1 reverb stealth a few weeks ago and now after only a few rides it's sagging several mm! I bled it three separate times and no change. The lever feels solid and returns fine, just won't hold the first several mm of lift. Does this sound like a warranty return? Or am I missing some procedure to fix it?


Check the basics first like air pressure. They really arent a big deal to open up and rebuild. I'd definitely recommend rebuilding the 2014 model. The latest rebuild kit has the upgraded IPF which will solve the wear issues of the old one. I have rebuilt a couple of post lately with the new kit and they have sorted a few of the issues.

The brand new post will be a bit trickier. If you have 250psi of air and have bled the lever then it does sound like an internal issue that RS should deal with. If your curious you could remove the post from the bike and take out the C clip at the base of the outer tube then push the post down to expose the bumper o'ring and spacer. If there is oil in this section of the post then it will need to be opened up to find out where the post is leaking then bleed the internals and reassemble.

The lever bleed only bleeds air out of the release circuit and doesn't fix internal issues in the IFP/main shaft area. Good luck.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

SonomaBiker said:


> I had a 2014 reverb stealth A1 for two years until it started sagging and not returning on cold days, or after being compressed down for 10-15min. Still debating what to do about it, rebuild?
> 
> Now I just got a brand new 2017 B1 reverb stealth a few weeks ago and now after only a few rides it's sagging several mm! I bled it three separate times and no change. The lever feels solid and returns fine, just won't hold the first several mm of lift. Does this sound like a warranty return? Or am I missing some procedure to fix it?


Sorry, I just saw this post. Can't believe no one else has given you advice in 3 weeks.

Check the basics first like air pressure. They really arent a big deal to open up and rebuild. I'd definitely recommend rebuilding the 2014 model. The latest rebuild kit has the upgraded IFP which will solve the wear issues of the old one. I have rebuilt a couple of posts lately with the new kit and they seem to have sorted a few of the issues.

The brand new post will be a bit trickier as it does sound like a warranty issue. If you have 250psi of air and have bled the lever then it does sound like an internal issue that RS should deal with. If your curious you could remove the post from the bike and take out the C clip at the base of the outer tube then push the post down to expose the bumper o'ring and spacer (release all air before doing this). If there is oil in this section of the post then it will need to be opened up to find out where the post is leaking then bleed the internals and reassemble. Please download and look through the manual before doing any of this. It has a great see through diagram in the front that shows you the internals. It would be a good ideas to let out all of the air before you do this just in case.

The lever bleed only bleeds air out of the release circuit and doesn't fix internal issues in the IFP/main shaft area. Good luck.


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

My remote needs a bleed but I am all out of 2.5wt fluid. Anyone use 3wt from the pike before? I've got plenty of that.


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## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

niva1989 said:


> Sorry, I just saw this post. Can't believe no one else has given you advice in 3 weeks.
> 
> Check the basics first like air pressure. They really arent a big deal to open up and rebuild. I'd definitely recommend rebuilding the 2014 model. The latest rebuild kit has the upgraded IFP which will solve the wear issues of the old one. I have rebuilt a couple of posts lately with the new kit and they seem to have sorted a few of the issues.
> 
> ...


I sent the B1 in for warranty replacement and got a new one. The new one is holding so far, but only a few rides on it at this point.

I'll definitely get a rebuild kit for the A1/A2... not sure which it is actually.

Thanks!


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

SonomaBiker said:


> I sent the B1 in for warranty replacement and got a new one. The new one is holding so far, but only a few rides on it at this point.
> 
> I'll definitely get a rebuild kit for the A1/A2... not sure which it is actually.
> 
> Thanks!


Most of the A1 posts had a silver top cap/bush. Also they have silver colour parts and an extra spacer in the poppet valve area.good news on the B1


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## jobo_ph (Oct 13, 2015)

The part number for the SKF IFP piston (blue one) is 11.6818.034.000... seen it for sale on eBay.

It can be used for Reverb Stealth and Non-Stealth A1/A2.

The use of the SKF IFP was mentioned in the video (at 8:36 mark)... 




As well as on Page 5 Rev E of the 2014 Reverb Stealth Service Manual (https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...000000004211_rev_e_2014_reverb_stealth_sm.pdf)


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

bigkat273 said:


> My remote needs a bleed but I am all out of 2.5wt fluid. Anyone use 3wt from the pike before? I've got plenty of that.


Just as an FYI I used the 3wt fluid for my remote bleed and while the action is a touch firmer it is working just fine.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Hello.

Help me plz with info
1) going to shorten the hose (as on video on button side 



 4:13 )
2) after shortening i have to bleed it. The question is - what type of bleeding:
а) full system bleed 



б) or only on button side 




??


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

ka81ua said:


> Hello.
> 
> Help me plz with info
> 1) going to shorten the hose (as on video on button side
> ...


A remote/line bleed. One empty syringe on the post and one 3/4 full on the remote. The videos will show you the details.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

empty?? but seatpost will get some air... why empty?
why not to bleed with fulfilled seatpost-syringe with the direction "from post to remote"?


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

and some more:
after shortening the only problematic place is the remote, where now will be a little bit of air. in the seatpost and hose there will not be any air, because I was shortening the hose NEAR the remote, not the seatpost.


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

ka81ua said:


> and some more:
> after shortening the only problematic place is the remote, where now will be a little bit of air. in the seatpost and hose there will not be any air, because I was shortening the hose NEAR the remote, not the seatpost.


Directions have you push fluid from remote to post, remove air from post syringe and then push fluid back towards remote. You then bleed the remote assembly.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

bigkat273 said:


> Directions have you push fluid from remote to post, remove air from post syringe and then push fluid back towards remote. You then bleed the remote assembly.


I've read both ways in different manuals over the years. It doesn't really matter as you just keep the fluid going back and forth until there is no air coming out. Really doesn't matter. I have tried starting with fluid at different ends and no difference as long as you finish at the remote and have it positioned higher than the post then it will be fine.


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

niva1989 said:


> I've read both ways in different manuals over the years. It doesn't really matter as you just keep the fluid going back and forth until there is no air coming out. Really doesn't matter. I have tried starting with fluid at different ends and no difference as long as you finish at the remote and have it positioned higher than the post then it will be fine.


Yea, definitely. Like you said just make sure one end is higher.


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## pinkyracer (Jul 5, 2016)

guys. really. this thread has 2,466 replies. Do I have to read all of them to find out why my dropper post got stuck down after I dropped my bike on the right side? The remote looks unharmed, the cables I can see have nothing to do with the dropper post, so I dunno. But I can pull it up if I try really hard, and it just pops right back down, like there's no spring for keeping it up. It's brand new, so I'm gonna call Santa Cruz and ask wtf, but it would sure be nice to have separate threads for separate issues. I mean, this topic does seem to have issues. ;-)

I LOVE the first post, it's super helpful, but the link doesn't work so here's a better link: https://www.sram.com/service/rockshox/50

I'm bummed because I thought the shop I bought the bike from was good, and that I'd be able to just keep going back there for service, but they proved that wrong. So I hate to have to take it to the shop down the street for stuff that shouldn't even go wrong...


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## Velokid1 (May 3, 2005)

Any reports yet on whether the internals of the new "gold" Reverbs are holding up? 

Looks like Trek is shipping early Fuel EX bikes with the new Reverb rather than the Bontrager dropper listed in the specs. My faith in SRAM is a little low at this point.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

pinkyracer said:


> guys. really. this thread has 2,466 replies. Do I have to read all of them to find out why my dropper post got stuck down after I dropped my bike on the right side? The remote looks unharmed, the cables I can see have nothing to do with the dropper post, so I dunno.


Drop it again and it will work. Or just tap it lightly. I had same problem - after small crash the post was stuck in down position. I started to bleed it and when I removed it from bike it worked again. Next time I just tapped it and it started to work.


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## yboc (Nov 4, 2012)

Does anyone know how to get a warranty claim started with Sram for a reverb? I couldnt figure it out online.

I have a reverb that I got with a bike in March 15. It developed the vertical sag/play a month ago and I was kind of just dealing with it, and today the seal finally popped up and its KIA. The shop wants $160 to service it so I'm looking to just have it warrantied.

Thanks!


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Ugh. That's why I'm not excited by the new Reverb, nor I am excited by the Fox Transfer. Cost of rebuild and service will be jacked up by local shops who don't want to bother with them. Even though the parts will be cheap, they are complicated enough that most users won't service them at home. 

It seems like sealed, easily replaceable cartridge is the way to go.


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## Velokid1 (May 3, 2005)

yboc said:


> Does anyone know how to get a warranty claim started with Sram for a reverb? I couldnt figure it out online.
> 
> I have a reverb that I got with a bike in March 15. It developed the vertical sag/play a month ago and I was kind of just dealing with it, and today the seal finally popped up and its KIA. The shop wants $160 to service it so I'm looking to just have it warrantied.
> 
> Thanks!


I had a Fuel EX with about 20-30 rides on it and purchased in October 2015. Reverb failed and SRAM replaced it but not before asking the LBS 20 questions and pushing back quite a bit.

Unfortunately, I think the chances of them warrantying one purchased in March 2015 are slim. The design of the internals was flawed, so if you have the post rebuilt, I would sell it immediately. The problem is, you probably won't be able to sell it for more than $175. If SRAM won't replace it, you may want to consider shelling out for a new dropper.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

pinkyracer said:


> guys. really. this thread has 2,466 replies. Do I have to read all of them to find out why my dropper post got stuck down after I dropped my bike on the right side? The remote looks unharmed, the cables I can see have nothing to do with the dropper post, so I dunno. But I can pull it up if I try really hard, and it just pops right back down, like there's no spring for keeping it up. It's brand new, so I'm gonna call Santa Cruz and ask wtf, but it would sure be nice to have separate threads for separate issues. I mean, this topic does seem to have issues. ;-)
> 
> I LOVE the first post, it's super helpful, but the link doesn't work so here's a better link: https://www.sram.com/service/rockshox/50
> 
> I'm bummed because I thought the shop I bought the bike from was good, and that I'd be able to just keep going back there for service, but they proved that wrong. So I hate to have to take it to the shop down the street for stuff that shouldn't even go wrong...


I'd make sure the barb at the base of your post hasn't come loose and leaked oil after the shock of a drop. Can you hear a slight click in the post when you push the remote quickly? If the internals were damaged I dont think you would have resistance to pulling up. It is normal to be able to pull up on the post in the dropped position but there should be a fair bit of resistance.

It really isn't rocket science to rebuild them yourself. The kits and tools are reasonably priced and the service instructions are very detailed.


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## Spacer (Sep 4, 2010)

Sounds like you might have a leak internally. Mine was doing that after a rebuild. I didn't get the oil level right. Once I got the oil level right it worked fine. As Nivea1989 mentioned, check closely for an oil leak at the post connection. Mine had a small leak I couldn't see but when I wiped it with tissue it showed.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

bigkat273 said:


> Directions have you push fluid from remote to post, remove air from post syringe and then push fluid back towards remote. You then bleed the remote assembly.


sorry bothering but once again:
after shortening near the remote, there got some air, NOT anywhere near the seatpost, only where remote.
So, why cant I just connect the syringe to remote, pull the plunger out for as much as needed times to get all the air into syringe, and then pull the plunger in to move fluid to remote (as on sram video)??
why do I have to connect both syringes?? (to remote and to seatpost)


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## LaXCarp (Jul 19, 2008)

ka81ua said:


> So, why cant I just connect the syringe to remote, pull the plunger out for as much as needed times to get all the air into syringe, and then pull the plunger in to move fluid to remote (as on sram video)??
> why do I have to connect both syringes?? (to remote and to seatpost)


Because that would be creating a vacuum. It would suck air back in as soon as you unscrewed from the remote. You need to remove that air and replace that space with fluid.

If you dont understand that, then just trust us


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> sorry bothering but once again:
> after shortening near the remote, there got some air, NOT anywhere near the seatpost, only where remote.
> So, why cant I just connect the syringe to remote, pull the plunger out for as much as needed times to get all the air into syringe, and then pull the plunger in to move fluid to remote (as on sram video)??
> why do I have to connect both syringes?? (to remote and to seatpost)


Only way to guarantee a proper bleed. Air is in the hose then it will be difficult to pull it out with the syringe. This is the second part of the bleed to remove air from the remote. You might get lucky and pull some air from the hose. It doesn't take long to do it properly. It will take longer when using 1 syringe doesn't work.


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## Spacer (Sep 4, 2010)

Just do it and learn. You could follow the manufacturers procedure (hint, they might just know what works best) or you could make up your own procedure and it turns out quicker or easier.
Let us know how it goes.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Spacer said:


> Just do it and learn. You could follow the manufacturers procedure (hint, they might just know what works best) or you could make up your own procedure and it turns out quicker or easier.
> Let us know how it goes.


I agree. Not sure why people want to take short cuts on procedures that are already short. It would take more time write a post on this forum than the time they would save. Stick to the manual, its safer that way. I have rebuilt many of these but still flick through page by page as an insurance policy . Its easy to get distracted and my memory isn't good enough to remember all of the torque settings.


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## stafass (Mar 31, 2016)

Hi,

only today I noticed that when my reverb is not in its highest position and I lift my bicycle holding by its seat, post extends 30-50mm and probably would extend even more until it would reach its highest point (not pushing remote button) Is that normal? If not, does anyone else has the same issue and knows how to fix it? 

Thanks


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Yes normal. Things can be done to eliminate it, but most posts do it.

People have to understand that the Reverb doesn't have a mechanical brake or locking mechanism. It just has a valve that prevents the post from sinking or lowering by controlling the flow of hydraulic oil. 

It isn't design to stop the movement of the post in the "up" movement, so yes you even though it may be locked from moving further down, it isn't locked from moving further up.


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## stafass (Mar 31, 2016)

PHeller said:


> Yes normal. Things can be done to eliminate it, but most posts do it.
> 
> People have to understand that the Reverb doesn't have a mechanical brake or locking mechanism. It just has a valve that prevents the post from sinking or lowering by controlling the flow of hydraulic oil.
> 
> It isn't design to stop the movement of the post in the "up" movement, so yes you even though it may be locked from moving further down, it isn't locked from moving further up.


Only have Reverb for a couple of months now or even less and never had to take it apart, yet, only bled it couple times and changed barb as it snapped off when I had little crash. I was lifting my bicycle holding it by the saddle before and didn't feel any movement.. So naturally got a bit  when I noticed it.

Thank you for the answer and explanation PHeller :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Like I said, I think it can be fixed, but I don't think its a sign that something in your Reverb is broken. 

In my opinion, something in the Reverb is always broken, but so long as its holding air and oil, it keeps of working.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

stafass said:


> Only have Reverb for a couple of months now or even less and never had to take it apart, yet, only bled it couple times and changed barb as it snapped off when I had little crash. I was lifting my bicycle holding it by the saddle before and didn't feel any movement.. So naturally got a bit  when I noticed it.
> 
> Thank you for the answer and explanation PHeller :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


All stealth posts do it and it is normal. You are creating a vacuum and it should snap back down to where you had it adjusted to. It should still offer some resistance to coming up though but should feel elastic like. Standard Reverb doesn't tend to do it. I have never looked at it in depth but it must be something to do with the difference in the poppet valve location. As long as the post operates normally otherwise it is fine.


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## stafass (Mar 31, 2016)

niva1989 said:


> All stealth posts do it and it is normal. You are creating a vacuum and it should snap back down to where you had it adjusted to. It should still offer some resistance to coming up though but should feel elastic like. Standard Reverb doesn't tend to do it. I have never looked at it in depth but it must be something to do with the difference in the poppet valve location. As long as the post operates normally otherwise it is fine.


It is exactly how you described it. Thank you.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

No problem. When I am climbing back up steep trails I often hook the bike onto my shoulder by the seat so noticed this pretty early on. I actually rebuilt my post at the time thinking it was broken as my other bike has an older standard Reverb that doesn't do it under the weight of the bike alone. I then checked all of my mates stealth droppers and they did the same thing. Happy shredding!!!

P.S. I am not sure if creating the vacuum inside the post is good or bad over the long term. All it could possibly do is upset the internal bleed of the IFP piston chamber if the seals aren't good enough to seal the vacuum. I imagine they would be able to take the vacuum though as it would be less effort than the 250psi in the chamber anyway.


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## stafass (Mar 31, 2016)

niva1989 said:


> No problem. When I am climbing back up steep trails I often hook the bike onto my shoulder by the seat so noticed this pretty early on. I actually rebuilt my post at the time thinking it was broken as my other bike has an older standard Reverb that doesn't do it under the weight of the bike alone. I then checked all of my mates stealth droppers and they did the same thing. Happy shredding!!!
> 
> P.S. I am not sure if creating the vacuum inside the post is good or bad over the long term. All it could possibly do is upset the internal bleed of the IFP piston chamber if the seals aren't good enough to seal the vacuum. I imagine they would be able to take the vacuum though as it would be less effort than the 250psi in the chamber anyway.


It is weird tho. Just now going to work and had to lift my bike on a train... and realised seat post definitely was not moving like this for the past couple months I have it.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

I remember thinking the same thing but maybe there is a bit more friction in a fresh new post and there was a bit more friction from the seals??? I guarantee new posts do it too. My mate just got a brand new Evil with a 150mm Reverb which is the new design and it does it too but does take a bit more effort. After i rebuild a post I have noticed the same.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

I have A2 Reverb Stealth that has started to bind: i.e. it is not going down easily when I just sit on it or press the back part of the saddle. I must load the nose of the saddle to make the post go down.

I searched the thread and found that most likely culprit is the inner seal head bushing. The post is working fine otherwise and I would like to avoid the full service and just replace the bushing.

My question is: how much should I disassemble the post to expose the bushing? It seems that if I first loosen the top cap, then perform the disassembling steps 1-13 (https://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000004211_rev_b_2014_reverb_stealth_sm.pdf) I should be able to unscrew the outer tube and expose the inner seal head bushing without loosing the oil or displacing the IFP? Then replace bushing and do the assembly steps from 8.

Does this sound correct to you?


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

arnea said:


> I have A2 Reverb Stealth that has started to bind: i.e. it is not going down easily when I just sit on it or press the back part of the saddle. I must load the nose of the saddle to make the post go down.
> 
> I searched the thread and found that most likely culprit is the inner seal head bushing. The post is working fine otherwise and I would like to avoid the full service and just replace the bushing.
> 
> ...


The top cap bushing probably worn too and I don't think that you can get that off without removing the inner sealhead. You are going to have to bleed the remote anyway and if you are capable of that then the full rebuild will be pretty easy.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Top cap bushing is not included in the service kit?


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

arnea said:


> Top cap bushing is not included in the service kit?


No. You need to buy the whole top cap as a part. They don't just sell the bushing.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Thanks. I found Rockshox service video: 



 They say that I need to replace top cap only when there is a forth and back play in the post. Mine doesn't, so I will keep the old top cap for now.

BTW, if somebody wants to convert the Reverb to use cable based levers then it should be possible soon:

DeHy - Reverb Stealth cable conversion kits | BikeYoke

Another question: does somebody know, where I can buy Stealth A2 service kit with new, one piece SKF IFP piston? Several places have 11.6818.022.020 in stock that also says "includes new, upgraded IFP", but I think this is "old" "new IFP" - the black one that still requires o-rings.

Edit: just found out that the basic kit also contains the bushing for inner seal head. Local shop has the basic kit in stock, so I will get this one and do the maintenance.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

This plan worked out nicely. I followed the Reverb Stealth Service Manual for disassembly. On step 6, before removing the post from frame I loosened the top cap, so I could rotate it with bare hands. Then I followed the steps until step 13. After that I clamped the post by head (as shown in step 22) and making sure that I do not press the inner shaft and loose any oil inside. Then I removed the foam washer, bottom out o-ring and outer tube. I did not perform the step 21. Then I had post upside down as shown in step 22, but with inner tube fully extended. Now instead of unscrewing the inner seal head I just removed the bushing and o-ring that is beneath it. Now I was able to remove the top cap as well. 

Top cap bushing was in good shape. I replaced the o-ring and foam ring in top cap and put it back. Cleaned all the parts, installed new o-ring and new bushing to inner seal head. Then followed the assembly sequence from step 8. I checked the oil level at step 15 but I was not sure how well it worked out and if it is needed. It seems that this check is really not necessary.

The post is very smooth now. Goes down even when I sit at the very back of the saddle. 

Only negative thing is that I lost 4mm of travel. The post goes up only 121mm. If I pull the post when the lever is depressed then I rises extra 4mm. The post is not squishy just does not extend fully. What might cause this? Is it possible that the IFP moved during the disassembly of the post and causes this? 

I will keep the post as it is now.


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## Fairbanks007 (Sep 5, 2009)

A couple of years ago, I had a SRAM Rockshox Reverb post fail after about a year of riding, post dropped but wouldn't extend. The air chamber would not hold air. Post went back to SRAM and was replaced, no questions asked.

Sold that bike (and post), but based on the previously stellar SRAM warranty service put another Reverb on the new bike. Flash forward 12 months and, yep, you guessed it...the Reverb failed. Same problem: post won't extend, air chamber won't hold air. Took the post to LBS (with receipt) for warranty work.

This time I'm told air seals are a wear item, and not covered under warranty. A rebuild will cost $200. Remember, this is a new post less than 12 months old. I am stunned that SRAM expects consumers to pay more than half the cost of a brand new post for what they apparently feel should be regular annual maintenance.

Not sure if SRAM changed their warranty policy on Reverbs, or if my LBS is just not advocating for me strongly enough (I've moved and the LBS I'm dealing with is not the shop that sold me the post.) Here's what I do know: I am extremely disappointed in SRAM and the LBS, unless SRAM reverses their decision to NOT warranty this post, I am done with SRAM products. I won't pay $200 every year for a rebuild, and I won't buy another SRAM product.

I will also go out of my way (hence the purpose of this post) to make sure that everyone I meet on the trails, real or virtual, knows that the vaunted SRAM warranty isn't worth the paper it is written on.

Thanks for indulging my rant.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

arnea said:


> This plan worked out nicely. I followed the Reverb Stealth Service Manual for disassembly. On step 6, before removing the post from frame I loosened the top cap, so I could rotate it with bare hands. Then I followed the steps until step 13. After that I clamped the post by head (as shown in step 22) and making sure that I do not press the inner shaft and loose any oil inside. Then I removed the foam washer, bottom out o-ring and outer tube. I did not perform the step 21. Then I had post upside down as shown in step 22, but with inner tube fully extended. Now instead of unscrewing the inner seal head I just removed the bushing and o-ring that is beneath it. Now I was able to remove the top cap as well.
> 
> Top cap bushing was in good shape. I replaced the o-ring and foam ring in top cap and put it back. Cleaned all the parts, installed new o-ring and new bushing to inner seal head. Then followed the assembly sequence from step 8. I checked the oil level at step 15 but I was not sure how well it worked out and if it is needed. It seems that this check is really not necessary.
> 
> ...


That usually means some oil has bypassed the IFP and entered the air side. It's a symptom mine has when it needs a rebuild. You might get a bit more time before it gets worse. What you did shouldn't have upset it if you didn't remove the poppet valve.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Fairbanks007 said:


> A couple of years ago, I had a SRAM Rockshox Reverb post fail after about a year of riding, post dropped but wouldn't extend. The air chamber would not hold air. Post went back to SRAM and was replaced, no questions asked.
> 
> Sold that bike (and post), but based on the previously stellar SRAM warranty service put another Reverb on the new bike. Flash forward 12 months and, yep, you guessed it...the Reverb failed. Same problem: post won't extend, air chamber won't hold air. Took the post to LBS (with receipt) for warranty work.
> 
> ...


This post does have some flaws but is a great post when working. The most I get out of a post is just over a year. Mostly oil bypassing the ifp. I have just rebuilt my post using the new style IFP and am hoping this gives me a bit more life. I definitely recommend buying the tools and doing it all yourself. Much much cheaper and you get the satisfaction of doing it yourself. I now rebuild all of my mates reverbs. I have used a few different brands over the years and RS is by far the best because they give you the option of servicing yourself and don't treat you like a moron as other brands do.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

niva1989 said:


> That usually means some oil has bypassed the IFP and entered the air side. It's a symptom mine has when it needs a rebuild. You might get a bit more time before it gets worse. What you did shouldn't have upset it if you didn't remove the poppet valve.


Thanks. I had to remove the poppet valve, because I needed to remove the outer seal head to remove the outer tube.


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## jtaylor996 (Jul 8, 2016)

I've got a brand new reverb stealth on my pony rustler, and it doesn't always want to come all the way back up. What could cause that?


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## mtbiker040 (Jul 11, 2010)

jtaylor996 said:


> I've got a brand new reverb stealth on my pony rustler, and it doesn't always want to come all the way back up. What could cause that?


check the air pressure in it, should be 250psi. you have to remove the seat and clamp then you will see the cap on the valve, remove it and use a shock pump to inflate to 250psi.


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## Ducman (Feb 29, 2004)

jtaylor996 said:


> I've got a brand new reverb stealth on my pony rustler, and it doesn't always want to come all the way back up. What could cause that?


Make sure the seat post collar isn't too tight.


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## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

jtaylor996 said:


> I've got a brand new reverb stealth on my pony rustler, and it doesn't always want to come all the way back up. What could cause that?


The other two replies are the best and most likely, but if those don't work then try to bleed the actuator line/lever. I wouldn't have thought this, but I have a reverb which was sometimes not coming back up and after I bled the line it worked fine again. The only thing I can think was happening is the actuator was not able to hold pressure long enough to let the seat back up... it also wouldn't go down all the way sometimes as well. Good luck!


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## jtaylor996 (Jul 8, 2016)

It was the seat post clamp being too tight that did it for me. Thanks for the help guys!


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

^^That's what happened to me. I didn't have my torque wrench handy and tightened the clamp a bit too much. When I loosened the clamp a bit. The post extended all the way up. I'm guessing the outer wall of the Reverb is pretty thin.


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## jmblur (Jul 3, 2007)

My A1 reverb is losing air on me - pumped up to 150psi, I get about 8 activations before it stops returning (over about 45 minutes). Leaving the post inflated on the hike overnight also seems to out pressure down to 0psi. It was rebuilt (full service) about 3 months ago after it developed a sag.

Assuming it isn't as simple as replacing the valve core, which I'll be trying first, should a basic seal kit fix this, or do I need the full service kit? Will I need the ifp tool, oil height tool, etc. for the basic service?


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

Quick question about the new B1 post and lighter riders. I am 110 lbs and have a heck of a time getting the A2 post to drop. Actually I could not get the A2 to drop out of the box (after several bleeds), the only possible way to make it work was to reduce the air pressure in the seatpost. Even with the air pressure at 150 psi it required some precise butt placement to get the A2 to drop. Rockshox is promoting the B1 at being more responsive to slacker seat tube angles. Does anyone have experience with this. Is the B1 less sensitive to seat and butt placement? Many times I find on the A2 it will only drop if I sit on the nose of the saddle. Just trying to figure if I should give the B1 a try or go with a completely different post.
Thanks


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

How old is your post? Has it been serviced? I'm heavy and after one year of usage I was also only able to drop the A2 post by sitting on the nose of the saddle. The inner seal head bushing was worn. After servicing (basic kit was sufficient) it goes down much more easily.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

arnea said:


> How old is your post? Has it been serviced? I'm heavy and after one year of usage I was also only able to drop the A2 post by sitting on the nose of the saddle. The inner seal head bushing was worn. After servicing (basic kit was sufficient) it goes down much more easily.


My A2 is brand new. Bike Shop says they can replace it with a B1 or something else. 
Just trying to figure out what to do.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

JillRide45 said:


> My A2 is brand new. Bike Shop says they can replace it with a B1 or something else.
> Just trying to figure out what to do.


Really doesn't sound right. Maybe not getting bled properly???Unusual in my opinion.


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## oweya (Sep 15, 2005)

My Reverb Stealth A2 got squishy so I decided to do a basic rebuild but when I did I noticed that the IFP was missing one of the two plastic guide rings. I don't think my bike shop opened it up, perhaps it came this way from the factory&#8230; 
Anyway, this caused me to get the full rebuild kit so I could get the new black plastic IFP. Thankfully it worked and the post is back to proper working order.


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## someoldfart (Mar 14, 2013)

I think that I have a faulty Reverb. It's had about 18 months use, probably seven or eight hundred hours and it still functions perfectly. How can that be?


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## gtang31 (Aug 11, 2016)

Has anyone ever has a fizzing sound on their Reverb? I have the A2 and just did a full rebuild on it because it could be compressed and extended without the remote. When I bled the post, movement is great, however it sounds like air is pushing out of the bottom when compressing and extending... No loss of air pressure in the post itself though


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

gtang31 said:


> Has anyone ever has a fizzing sound on their Reverb? I have the A2 and just did a full rebuild on it because it could be compressed and extended without the remote. When I bled the post, movement is great, however it sounds like air is pushing out of the bottom when compressing and extending... No loss of air pressure in the post itself though


Thats pretty normal. Its the air in the outer tube been displaced as the seatpost is compressed.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

gtang31 said:


> Has anyone ever has a fizzing sound on their Reverb? I have the A2 and just did a full rebuild on it because it could be compressed and extended without the remote. When I bled the post, movement is great, however it sounds like air is pushing out of the bottom when compressing and extending... No loss of air pressure in the post itself though


I agree it is normal but I pinched an oring on the inner sealhead on my first rebuild a few years back. It is easy to do and I have even found new factory built ones with pinched orings. I had oil leaking out of those air holes in the main seal head when that happened. Just make sure there is no oil coming out of those air holes making your fizzing sound. Your post will work fine for a while until enough oil leaks from ifp chamber to stop post working. Just keep an eye on it.


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

So I bent the main shaft (stanchion) on my reverb. You can feel it begin to bind about 70mm into the 125mm of travel. Honestly it's not noticeable while riding but still sucks. Reverb will officially become the backup with fox transfer moving into full time status.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

someoldfart said:


> I think that I have a faulty Reverb. It's had about 18 months use, probably seven or eight hundred hours and it still functions perfectly. How can that be?


I currently have 4 faulty ones just like yours, and another 2 on past bikes that were equally as faulty. Then again, I NEVER pick them up by the saddle when loading them in my truck unless the seat is FULLY extended.


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## rentalrider (Apr 23, 2016)

I wish mine was "faulty" like yours. In for first full rebuild. This years model. Frustrating.


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## justin70 (Sep 17, 2007)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I currently have 4 faulty ones just like yours, and another 2 on past bikes that were equally as faulty. *Then again, I NEVER pick them up by the saddle when loading them in my truck unless the seat is FULLY extended.*


This seems like such a stupid thing to cause problems for an expensive component. Oops, I picked it up by the seat while not fully extended...oh no, my dropper post is now broken.

On a more practical note, when posting whether you've had reverb failures (or successes), it would be interesting to know rider weight. I imagine heavier riders are causing more destruction.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

justin70 said:


> This seems like such a stupid thing to cause problems for an expensive component. Oops, I picked it up by the seat while not fully extended...oh no, my dropper post is now broken.
> 
> On a more practical note, when posting whether you've had reverb failures (or successes), it would be interesting to know rider weight. I imagine heavier riders are causing more destruction.


Not sure of the failure rate (100%? 10%? 1%?) or the number of times the bike must be picked up by the seat when not fully extended (or how aggressively) for problems to occur. All I know is that the guys I know who have had problems have routinely picked their bikes up by the seat when not fully extended, and numerous mechanics have told me not to. Crap design? Possibly. Bad manual for including no warnings? Probably. But I simply comply with that one rule and life is good. Small price to pay for an incredible product (IMHO). I weigh 185 without gear. So not a Clyde, but no lightweight either.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

justin70 said:


> This seems like such a stupid thing to cause problems for an expensive component. Oops, I picked it up by the seat while not fully extended...oh no, my dropper post is now broken.
> 
> On a more practical note, when posting whether you've had reverb failures (or successes), it would be interesting to know rider weight. I imagine heavier riders are causing more destruction.


I am In the Clyde spectrum at 105kg + riding gear and do have a severely reduced life on most components (mainly wheels till I started building my own). All of my mates and I run reverb posts. My post tends to wear out the brass keys where as theirs doesn't. Possibly worn brass keys allows more dirt to be ingested. I haven't had a bent post like some other heavier guys. I have around 10000km on my older reverb and have rebuilt it twice in that time which is pretty good IMO. I rebuild mine and my mates posts and on average we get 1 year out of them. I have done around 20 or so rebuilds all up now. Main issue seems to be dirt ingestion which wears the seals out. It's amazing how far those grains of dirt get into the system. 
Not sure how much of an issue rider weight really makes. I pick my bike up by the post all the time but I do make sure I extend it first only so it is easier to carry as my elbow can clear the frame. Also, non stealth reverbs lock both directions. You can't pull them up. Stealth posts have the internals arranged differently.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

justin70 said:


> This seems like such a stupid thing to cause problems for an expensive component. Oops, I picked it up by the seat while not fully extended...oh no, my dropper post is now broken.
> 
> On a more practical note, when posting whether you've had reverb failures (or successes), it would be interesting to know rider weight. I imagine heavier riders are causing more destruction.


Picking the bike up by the seat is not causing anything. If it DOES, then it's an incredibly POORLY designed $400 piece of equipment that has no business being on a bicycle.

If that is indeed RockShox's official reply to failures, they are even more incompetent at creating bicycle parts than I have ever given them credit for.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

DethWshBkr said:


> Picking the bike up by the seat is not causing anything. If it DOES, then it's an incredibly POORLY designed $400 piece of equipment that has no business being on a bicycle.
> 
> If that is indeed RockShox's official reply to failures, they are even more incompetent at creating bicycle parts than I have ever given them credit for.


Every rider I know continues to choose a Reverb. Even the guys who have gone through rebuilds. Is it perfect? No. Is there anything better? I guess that's a matter of opinion. I love my Reverbs. I would not have a bike without a dropper and after having ridden numerous different ones, I still like the Reverb the best, warts and all. But everyone is entitled to their own opinion, and can spend their hard earned cash however they please.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

I have two Reverbs, and a Fox Transfer.

One reverb was repaired 6 times in less than 6 months, before finally being replaced under warranty. That unit lasted for 2 months before failing again and is still sitting in my basement in pieces.
My second Reverb came on my Remedy, and has been repaired 3 times since I bought the bike in March 2015, with the last rebuild being sometime around October last year. I did have to bleed the remote three months ago after it got stuck in the down position, but I won't hold that against it too much.

I'm just saying, if RockShox's OFFICIAL response to these sort of things is "it was lifted by the seat", they are incompetent at designing a product.

If it is not an official response from RockShox, then it is not the cause of failure, and people need to quit saying it is.

On mine, all failures (except the remote bleed) were the seal-head coming un-done, and the o-ring popping out. 
I was able to finally solve the problem by installing a larger (thicker diameter) o-ring from a hardware store.


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## idividebyzero (Sep 25, 2014)

I wanted to see how heavy my bike was so I weighed it with a luggage scale by the saddle today like you see every bike being weighed. Now there is a small knock, luckily its very small and probably wont notice it while riding but its new and wasnt there earlier. Im 99% sure it was fully extended as Im always careful with this fickle piece of crap since I know the horror stories and always try to avoid picking it up by the saddle/stanchion when possible.


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## Velokid1 (May 3, 2005)

Same here. I knew the RS post had that fatal design flaw so I always babied my post. Went on one ride last spring that had over 100 trees down and was endlessly dismounting and carrying my bike for 5 hours. ONE time I dismounted and accidentally picked my bike up by the saddle and it suddenly had 7 mm "sag." Super lame. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

DethWshBkr said:


> I have two Reverbs, and a Fox Transfer.
> 
> One reverb was repaired 6 times in less than 6 months, before finally being replaced under warranty. That unit lasted for 2 months before failing again and is still sitting in my basement in pieces.
> My second Reverb came on my Remedy, and has been repaired 3 times since I bought the bike in March 2015, with the last rebuild being sometime around October last year. I did have to bleed the remote three months ago after it got stuck in the down position, but I won't hold that against it too much.
> ...


Everyone with a reverb should buy the tools and do it themselves like you have done in the end. They will save a whole lot of trouble. The sealhead coming loose is so common and I have been guilty of it on my first rebuild. If you don't wipe the excess oil away from the o'ring before you tighten the last couple of turns it pops the o'ring out. It may just nick it and cause a slow death. It can also stop the sealhead being done up tight enough.

Sounds like this is the cause of issues for so many people. I think half the problems would disappear if more care was taken during rebuilds. I am not the fastest at rebuilding them and probably wouldn't make any money doing it for a job but I know it is done properly. Once a year rebuilds for my post even though it ingests a fair bit of dirt.

I also think poor rebuilds may be part of the cause of the pulling on the seat issue. I have been pulling up on mine and some of my friends ones since reading about it in this forum and I can't get any of them to fault. I think the o'ring issue on the sealhead allows oil to leak out but can also allow air to enter IFP chamber if the seat is pulled up. The vacuum created inside the post from pulling up on the seat would be pretty minor.


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## Velokid1 (May 3, 2005)

You may be right in cases where people have had rebuilds done, but the fact that new Reverbs experience the same failure is well known by bike shops and Rockshox themselves. RS sent out something like 400,000 posts last year and had replaced about 175,000 of them for the same issue as of early summer. 

There are naturally several different ways that a dropper can fail and rebuilding them periodically is going to be necessary, but the issue of picking the bike up by the saddle when not fully extended and having that instantly lead to air getting past the o-ring and the post "sagging" several mm when the rider puts his weight on the saddle... well documented at this point. 

So far, so good on my new generation RS Stealth.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Velokid1 said:


> You may be right in cases where people have had rebuilds done, but the fact that new Reverbs experience the same failure is well known by bike shops and Rockshox themselves. RS sent out something like 400,000 posts last year and had replaced about 175,000 of them for the same issue as of early summer.
> 
> There are naturally several different ways that a dropper can fail and rebuilding them periodically is going to be necessary, but the issue of picking the bike up by the saddle when not fully extended and having that instantly lead to air getting past the o-ring and the post "sagging" several mm when the rider puts his weight on the saddle... well documented at this point.
> 
> So far, so good on my new generation RS Stealth.


wow, if that is acurate, getting close to 50%. How can you make any money on the product unless it costs like $2 to make? Givn all of the issues with it, maybe $2 is in the ballpark?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

I for one am excited for e13's new all mechanical dropper. I can deal with the lack of infinite positions in exchange for light action remote and no seals to ever fail.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Velokid1 said:


> You may be right in cases where people have had rebuilds done, but the fact that new Reverbs experience the same failure is well known by bike shops and Rockshox themselves. RS sent out something like 400,000 posts last year and had replaced about 175,000 of them for the same issue as of early summer.
> 
> There are naturally several different ways that a dropper can fail and rebuilding them periodically is going to be necessary, but the issue of picking the bike up by the saddle when not fully extended and having that instantly lead to air getting past the o-ring and the post "sagging" several mm when the rider puts his weight on the saddle... well documented at this point.
> 
> So far, so good on my new generation RS Stealth.


I have rebuilt a few new posts with pinched sealhead orings. Maybe they have a quality control issue. I have never had a post that I rebuilt come back before a full year. I am not saying there aren't other issues but the bulk seem to be related to poor assembly, new or old.

This is not an unusual story of a great design let down by production quality control issues. I have seen it with other products over the years.


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## Velokid1 (May 3, 2005)

niva1989 said:


> I have rebuilt a few new posts with pinched sealhead orings. Maybe they have a quality control issue. I have never had a post that I rebuilt come back before a full year. I am not saying there aren't other issues but the bulk seem to be related to poor assembly, new or old.
> 
> This is not an unusual story of a great design let down by production quality control issues. I have seen it with other products over the years.


I agree that that's not an unusual story, but it's also not the story on the 2016 Reverb. If the design was so great that it wasn't to blame for the failures I described in my post (can't speak for other sort of failures/issues/damage), then why did Rockshox promptly improve the design of the new gold Reverbs?

The Reverb is a fine seatpost, but the design was flawed. There was a flaw, Rockshox took a hit, many customers took a hit, Rockshox improved the design and here we are.


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## Nath26 (Sep 9, 2016)

Ok guys am I right in thinking that a dropper will be usless for me, looking at how low my seat sits?


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

PHeller said:


> I for one am excited for e13's new all mechanical dropper. I can deal with the lack of infinite positions in exchange for light action remote and no seals to ever fail.


What are they ripping off Gravity Dropper, but just made in China with no quality control?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Velokid1 said:


> I agree that that's not an unusual story, but it's also not the story on the 2016 Reverb. If the design was so great that it wasn't to blame for the failures I described in my post (can't speak for other sort of failures/issues/damage), then why did Rockshox promptly improve the design of the new gold Reverbs?
> 
> The Reverb is a fine seatpost, but the design was flawed. There was a flaw, Rockshox took a hit, many customers took a hit, Rockshox improved the design and here we are.


No one has designed a perfect product that doesn't wear out yet. There is always a need for product improvement. It shows they are listening to feedback and trying to make the product better. I'd be more worried if the new model wasn't packed with improvements. The thing I like the most about RS is they don't treat us all like fools and actually make the full service info available. Parts are easy to come by and reasonably priced. At least when something does wear out you have the cheap and easy option of fixing it yourself. I keep a spare seal kit for my Reverbs, Lyrik, Pike, Debonair and Vivid Air. If something does go wrong it is fixed that night and I'm up and going again the next day. I'm a bit of a Clyde so I do wear components out quicker than most.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Nath26 said:


> Ok guys am I right in thinking that a dropper will be usless for me, looking at how low my seat sits?


I have a mate that does the same. He just gets up out of the seat to pedal and does ok. It depends on the riding you do. If you do heaps of climbing as well as descending on the same ride then you will benefit from a dropper. A dropper would get that seat of yours right out of the way even at that low starting height. It gives you more breathing space for the steeper descents and drops.


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## Nath26 (Sep 9, 2016)

niva1989 said:


> I have a mate that does the same. He just gets up out of the seat to pedal and does ok. It depends on the riding you do. If you do heaps of climbing as well as descending on the same ride then you will benefit from a dropper. A dropper would get that seat of yours right out of the way even at that low starting height. It gives you more breathing space for the steeper descents and drops.


My point is this is the hight I like for pedaling, and with the extra top bit of a dropper think it would only drop like 50mm or less, is there any 50mm droppers? Or would I have to then set my hight every time I take the seat back up.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Nath26 said:


> My point is this is the hight I like for pedaling, and with the extra top bit of a dropper think it would only drop like 50mm or less, is there any 50mm droppers? Or would I have to then set my hight every time I take the seat back up.


You can fit a collar to the post to limit the travel. I think they come with one.


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## Nath26 (Sep 9, 2016)

niva1989 said:


> You can fit a collar to the post to limit the travel. I think they come with one.


Ah righto didn't know that could be done thanks bud, il have a look into getting one then iv plenty of time till my new trance 3 gets here 😕


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

The coller is only to limit the stop point for where they drop. It will still raise to high.. You would have to set the highth everytime. I think there are some 80 mm droppers out there. I ran into the same issue trying to put a dropper on my cyclocross bike..


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Psycho1 said:


> The coller is only to limit the stop point for where they drop. It will still raise to high.. You would have to set the highth everytime. I think there are some 80 mm droppers out there. I ran into the same issue trying to put a dropper on my cyclocross bike..


That's all Nath26 wants to do. He is happy with the fully extended height.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Nath26 said:


> Ah righto didn't know that could be done thanks bud, il have a look into getting one then iv plenty of time till my new trance 3 gets here ?


Ok. Trance 3 will be awesome. My cousin has one. Much slacker than the old Trance from a few years back.

Psycho1 made me think a bit more and if you decide to fit a dropper you will have to be careful that you can get your pedalling height out of the fully extended dropper. Will take a bit more research to work out which length post will allow you to have it low enough in the fully extended state. Looking at your photo I think it will be close. The newer Reverb doesn't have as many post length options as the older one. You could possibly fit an internal spacer. There is room but I'm not sure if that would cause a problem with anything else in the system. I'm sure someone else has done it before.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I think from the pictures of the bike. A fully extended post of say 125 will put the post much higher than the current spot they ride at. I might be misunderstanding what they are looking for.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Psycho1 said:


> I think from the pictures of the bike. A fully extended post of say 125 will put the post much higher than the current spot they ride at. I might be misunderstanding what they are looking for.


No. I think I misunderstood. The height in the picture is his pedalling/climbing saddle height. I think possibly the bike frame size might be too big. Its hard to tell from a photo whether a 125mm dropper would be too high. I think you could fit a spacer to limit the extension but would take some research.


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## Nath26 (Sep 9, 2016)

Thanks for all the info guys, just to be clear, yes that's my preferred ride hight so if a dropper sits higher than this fully extended it will just be a hassle to use. I think I could pedal just fine with it a bit higher as iv got used to having it a bit lower for the DH and like the room to move. My spicy in the pic is a medium and got stolen but think lappiere bikes are a bit over sized compared to most so my trance that's coming also a medium could be a bit smaller and give me more room to play with for a dropper. So I'm best to just wait and see when I get it, cheers guys 👍


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Nath26 said:


> Thanks for all the info guys, just to be clear, yes that's my preferred ride hight so if a dropper sits higher than this fully extended it will just be a hassle to use. I think I could pedal just fine with it a bit higher as iv got used to having it a bit lower for the DH and like the room to move. My spicy in the pic is a medium and got stolen but think lappiere bikes are a bit over sized compared to most so my trance that's coming also a medium could be a bit smaller and give me more room to play with for a dropper. So I'm best to just wait and see when I get it, cheers guys 👍


That sucks. I hate hearing about low life scum stealing bikes.


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## Nath26 (Sep 9, 2016)

niva1989 said:


> That sucks. I hate hearing about low life scum stealing bikes.


Yeah I was gutted, stole it off my fisrt floor balcony too ffs, chuffed I'm getting a new trance that's only costing me £200 tho 👍


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

picko990 said:


> good to know Yody...
> 
> has anyone else swapped out the green seal for this big black o-ring in your stealth post?
> 
> ...


I've just pulled my A2 Stealth apart and replaced the green u-cup seal with the black o'ring included in the inner seal head bag in the basic service kit; mainly on the advice of this guy here: The Seatpost Whisperer | Blue Liquid Labs

He also has lots of other good advice; like removing the valve core when tightening down the inner seal head to prevent the o'ring getting pushed into the threads, and milling up polymer bushes to replace the crappy Teflon coated ones...

How's your "o'ring substituted for u-cup seal posts" going?


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

I guess no one else works on these things anymore


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## edbraunbeck (Apr 28, 2007)

Are the NEW 2016 internals available as an upgrade for 2015 droppers? My 5010 V2 dropper post is having issues with dropping and returning. 

I did a quick search and didn't see an answer so go easy on the flaming. 

EDventure


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## oweya (Sep 15, 2005)

edbraunbeck said:


> Are the NEW 2016 internals available as an upgrade for 2015 droppers? My 5010 V2 dropper post is having issues with dropping and returning.
> 
> I did a quick search and didn't see an answer so go easy on the flaming.
> 
> EDventure


According to Pinkbike the IFP can be upgraded to the latest and greatest.



> The new piston is also included in RockShox Reverb rebuild kits, so customers who send their posts in for service will automatically receive the upgrade.


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## edbraunbeck (Apr 28, 2007)

oweya said:


> According to Pinkbike the IFP can be upgraded to the latest and greatest.


Oweya, Thanks for the quick response.


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## rhysjenz (Mar 3, 2012)

I've just installed a 31.6/150mm B1 version in the Scout frame I'm building up. Run into an interesting problem though...

The remote seems to have a leak somewhere.

When installing it I shortened the hose. Lost a bit of fluid too, so bled the system. Seemed to be rock solid. However after riding around the block for 5 mins, and actually using it continually, the post stopped going up. Found a whole bunch of fluid on the remote. Seemed to be leaking from somewhere around the actuator itself though - not the connection between the hose and the remote. Re-bled the system. Seemed rock solid again. But after taking it for a ride around the block, the same leak developed after a bit of use.

Any ideas about what the problem could be? Or fixes to try? Cheers!


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

rhysjenz said:


> I've just installed a 31.6/150mm B1 version in the Scout frame I'm building up. Run into an interesting problem though...
> 
> The remote seems to have a leak somewhere.
> 
> ...


I had the same problem - something worn inside the actuator that caused a leak. Ended up going back to RS for refurb.


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## rhysjenz (Mar 3, 2012)

CharacterZero said:


> I had the same problem - something worn inside the actuator that caused a leak. Ended up going back to RS for refurb.


Thanks. That's a bit crap if mine's the same, it's brand new!


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

My A2 is going great with the o'ring in place of the u-cup seal, thanks for asking


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## rhysjenz (Mar 3, 2012)

CharacterZero said:


> I had the same problem - something worn inside the actuator that caused a leak. Ended up going back to RS for refurb.


Actually, will an A1 remote work with the B2 seatpost? I forgot that I've still got the Reverb from my old frame kicking around!

I might swap the remotes over, to try and confirm that it's a problem with the B1's remote.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

rhysjenz said:


> Actually, will an A1 remote work with the B2 seatpost? I forgot that I've still got the Reverb from my old frame kicking around!
> 
> I might swap the remotes over, to try and confirm that it's a problem with the B1's remote.


Don't see why not. Would just be a volume thing I don't think it could damage anything. If it shifts the same amount of oil when depressed then it will work fine. Another place to check would be the online parts catalogues. If the remotes are the same part number then they will be identical.


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## sdimit (May 8, 2016)

hi guys i could really use some help here. just two months ago i got a new B1 reverb stealth and it has about 45 hours of riding. most recently i noticed that it felt like sagging a bit and i measured a 1,2mm drop under load even if i'd done a thorough bleed on it. is this normal for a fairly new post? or should i make a warranty claim? thanks.


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## dreys (Jan 21, 2014)

sdimit said:


> hi guys i could really use some help here. just two months ago i got a new B1 reverb stealth and it has about 45 hours of riding. most recently i noticed that it felt like sagging a bit and i measured a 1,2mm drop under load even if i'd done a thorough bleed on it. is this normal for a fairly new post? or should i make a warranty claim? thanks.


Same issue with my B1 Reverb, although my sag is about 5mm.

I haven't contacted SRAM yet, but it does sound as warranty issue.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

1.2 mm of sag doesn't sound consequential to me, but try this. Turn the bike upside down. Put blocks or something under the grips if needed so as not to damage any levers. Squeeze the remote and compress the dropper by pushing down on the bike. Once compressed, let go of the remote, turn the bike rightside up and squeeze the remote to let the dropper extend. This should purge any any small amount air from the support cylinder. That air is now in the oil on the wrong side of the IFP, but as long as it stays there and doesn't get into the cylinder it's OK.


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## sdimit (May 8, 2016)

Lone Rager said:


> 1.2 mm of sag doesn't sound consequential to me, but try this. Turn the bike upside down. Put blocks or something under the grips if needed so as not to damage any levers. Squeeze the remote and compress the dropper by pushing down on the bike. Once compressed, let go of the remote, turn the bike rightside up and squeeze the remote to let the dropper extend. This should purge any any small amount air from the support cylinder. That air is now in the oil on the wrong side of the IFP, but as long as it stays there and doesn't get into the cylinder it's OK.


thanks man ill do that right away. btw after this should i do a remote bleed to check for air?


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

sdimit said:


> thanks man ill do that right away. btw after this should i do a remote bleed to check for air?


Loneranger is all over this one but though I might add that a poor remote bleed doesn't really cause the issue you are talking about. The sag in the seatpost is to do with air being in the IFP chamber where there should only be oil. This is all inside the post and totally seperate system to the remote circuit.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Yeah. The oil/air in the dropper doesn't touch or mix with the oil(air) in the remote. They're separate systems. 

The post has air in it by design, ideally all above and separated from the oil by the IFP, which is there only for that purpose. Air below the IFP won't affect anything unless/until it gets into the cylinder. Then the post gets squishy. The trick I suggested will move air out of the cylinder back into the oil below the IFP. 

There should be no air in the remote system. The piston in the remote push on the oil which pushes on a small piston in the post. The small piston opens the valve that controls the dropper. Other posts use a cable to operate the valve. The speed dial on the remote adjusts the volume of oil pushed which changes the amount the small piston moves and how far it opens the valve thereby changing post speed. Air in that system is NG.


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## Uly (Aug 18, 2009)

For the record. I have an A2 Reverb that came OE on my 2016 Santa Cruz Hightower which was purchased in March. It has been ridden at least 3 times a week since then. The Reverb is stuck in the lowered position and leaking fluid from the bottom post. It's been bled, checked for loosed fittings and the PSI is 250.


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## sdimit (May 8, 2016)

anyway thanks guys. i did the trick lonerager suggested and the thing still sags near 1mm, other than that no prob especially after the bleeding i had done. so the response from sram was that for the B1 that sag is no reason for concern. up till 10mm they say is tolerable then it needs servicing. i rode it today and didn't see anything more.


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## seamarsh (Mar 5, 2012)

Uly said:


> For the record. I have an A2 Reverb that came OE on my 2016 Santa Cruz Hightower which was purchased in March. It has been ridden at least 3 times a week since then. The Reverb is stuck in the lowered position and leaking fluid from the bottom post. It's been bled, checked for loosed fittings and the PSI is 250.


My 150 on hightower about 200 miles on it is sagging 1/2" and needs to be RMA:ed


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Uly said:


> For the record. I have an A2 Reverb that came OE on my 2016 Santa Cruz Hightower which was purchased in March. It has been ridden at least 3 times a week since then. The Reverb is stuck in the lowered position and leaking fluid from the bottom post. It's been bled, checked for loosed fittings and the PSI is 250.


Oil leaking from the bottom of the post could be from the hose barb at the base or from inside the post. Looking at the bottom of the post it should be clear where it is coming from. If it's leaking from the barb then it is an easy fix. If it's coming from the inside then it could be a number of things causing that including poor assembly quality which isn't unusual.


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## DerrickT (Jun 10, 2004)

For those that recently got their A2 reverb serviced, what were the charges and turn around time?

Apparently SRAM sends used ones out of warranty for a rebuild to BTI and it took them three weeks.

Do these charges seem valid?


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

DerrickT said:


> For those that recently got their A2 reverb serviced, what were the charges and turn around time?
> 
> Apparently SRAM sends used ones out of warranty for a rebuild to BTI and it took them three weeks.
> 
> Do these charges seem valid?


I'm in Australia but in my opinion that looks pretty reasonable. The turn around time is pretty poor though if RS is funnelling all repairs through them they would be busy.

Easy to rebuild yourself if you wanted to save some time and money.


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## beastmaster (Sep 19, 2012)

*Blew its guts!*

My 9 month old 2016 Rockshox Reverb Stealth 150 (B1) blew up internally within the seatpost tube at the very end of a long ride yesterday (good thing it was at the end, as the ride was over 40 miles of very remote single track). The hydraulic fluid came out of the hose line at the attachment point, the hose itself, or the seatpost itself. I didn't pull the seatpost to see what exactly happened as it is under warranty. Aside from the bummer of post blowing up, the fluid got all over the bottom bracket bearings and the seatpost tube suspension linkage bearings. I am pretty sure they will all be toast after the exposure to the fluid.

My question is, as the bike (2016 Trek Fuel EX 9.9) is also 9 months old, should the LBS and/or Sram also cover the costs of replacing the BB and the suspension bearings that will most likely need replacing?


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## DerrickT (Jun 10, 2004)

Beast,

I don't think SRAM will cover the cost of the other damaged components but the correct action would be for your LBS to get your bike working again at all cost and for them to take it up with SRAM.

With that said I don't think your BB, bearings are toast. Have your LBS take it apart and clean the bike.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

beastmaster said:


> My 9 month old 2016 Rockshox Reverb Stealth 150 (B1) blew up internally within the seatpost tube at the very end of a long ride yesterday (good thing it was at the end, as the ride was over 40 miles of very remote single track). The hydraulic fluid came out of the hose line at the attachment point, the hose itself, or the seatpost itself. I didn't pull the seatpost to see what exactly happened as it is under warranty. Aside from the bummer of post blowing up, the fluid got all over the bottom bracket bearings and the seatpost tube suspension linkage bearings. I am pretty sure they will all be toast after the exposure to the fluid.
> 
> My question is, as the bike (2016 Trek Fuel EX 9.9) is also 9 months old, should the LBS and/or Sram also cover the costs of replacing the BB and the suspension bearings that will most likely need replacing?


I'd be surprised if the reverb fluid damaged the bearings. It isn't dot brake fluid as far as I know.


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## Uly (Aug 18, 2009)

niva1989 said:


> I'd be surprised if the reverb fluid damaged the bearings. It isn't dot brake fluid as far as I know.


Agree. It appears to be an oil of some type. But what happened to Beast happened to me as well except my bike is about 6 months old with an A2 version. Post stopped working when I put it down, would not come up. Remote had no pressure. Got home and fluid was leaking out of the bottom post. Bike shop is doing a rebuild right now at $150.00 parts and labor and will bring it up with SRAM.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

It ordinary mineral oil. It does not cause any harm to bearings.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

New remote coming in the post... Won eBay auction, so saved me a good $45 ^^

When I had RR serviced last year, lbs said I'd need to get the remote replaced eventually... 

Post hasn't been holding top cm last week or so...

Love this post & it's action... but, is so frikin expensive to get repaired/serviced.

Might sell it and get a different brand?

Sent from my kltedv using Tapatalk


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

targnik said:


> New remote coming in the post... Won eBay auction, so saved me a good $45 ^^
> 
> When I had RR serviced last year, lbs said I'd need to get the remote replaced eventually...
> 
> ...


They are pretty easy to rebuild yourself. Once you learn how to rebuild yourself then I think you can do a better job as you can take your time and don't have to worry about making a profit. I have rebuilt a fair few of these posts over the years for myself and for mates bikes. They have all lasted a minimum of a year on bikes that are ridden pretty regularly. I find that eventually they just injest too much dust and dirt which causes them to wear out.

There are some inherent design flaws that are mostly taken care of now in the latest rebuild kits and in the latest design post. Most of the issues are due to poor assembly quality.

I had a recurring issue with a post I rebuilt recently. It kept leaking from the hose barb on the base of the post. It was driving me crazy. I used a new barb each time, freshly cut the hose and torqued it up to the specs. It ended up being how the hose was routed through the frame which was pulling on the barb. On this same one I also found oil behind the rubber boot on the remote. I found a lever rebuild kit I bought a while back and it was pretty easy to pull apart and reseal too.


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## beastmaster (Sep 19, 2012)

BTI is going to rebuild it. Sram said will not give it a warranty assessment without it being taken apart by a qualified service center to find out if it is just the seals or if something failed catastrophically. Interesting way for them to handle it. It leaves it open to interpretation by Sram as they are not the ones doing the work. BTI said in the worst case it will cost $130 to rebuild it. Lucky for me BTI is located where I live!


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## dba4life (Aug 26, 2011)

I am on my third 2015 reverb. I purchased new from Performance in March this year. The first one was replaced end of May. Second end of July and the third just went this week. I am not diagnosing the issue because I purchased from Performance and they seem more than fine replacing it each time. I believe the seals are failing. The seat post can be moved up and down freely. The only issue I have had is I noticed the top cap became loose on all of them. By the third time I was checking it regularly and torquing to SRAM spec. It didn't seem to matter.

Has the 2016 been upgraded to fix this? Performance is willing to swap with some cost difference to the new one. Is it worth it? Obviously I am not very compatible with the older version. I am 225lbs and it is installed on a Niner RIP 9 RDO.

Thanks for any advice.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

dba4life said:


> I am on my third 2015 reverb. I purchased new from Performance in March this year. The first one was replaced end of May. Second end of July and the third just went this week. I am not diagnosing the issue because I purchased from Performance and they seem more than fine replacing it each time. I believe the seals are failing. The seat post can be moved up and down freely. The only issue I have had is I noticed the top cap became loose on all of them. By the third time I was checking it regularly and torquing to SRAM spec. It didn't seem to matter.
> 
> Has the 2016 been upgraded to fix this? Performance is willing to swap with some cost difference to the new one. Is it worth it? Obviously I am not very compatible with the older version. I am 225lbs and it is installed on a Niner RIP 9 RDO.
> 
> Thanks for any advice.


Haha a fellow member of the Clyde club. I have to agree most bike components aren't compatible with Clydes but the Reverb isn't one of them. I think there is something going wrong with the assembly of your posts. I rebuild them regularly (just for people I know not for profit) and they are used in pretty harsh environments and with pretty aggressive riders. I learnt quickly where you can get caught out if your not careful when you rebuild them. It is quite easy to damage some of the orings and seals on assembly and not realise that you have done it till the post has been used for a while. Oil leaks gradually out of the IFP chamber into the post or into the air side of the piston. You will either suddenly lose function or gradually notice the sag in the seatpost getting worse. Can't say this is your problem as I haven't seen your posts apart but it is pretty easy to do.

The latest rebuild kits are pretty good and they come with an upgraded IFP piston. I haven't had an issues with these yet but I didn't really have an issue with the older IFP pistons either.

Looking at the new 2016 posts I can see they have made some improvements. I have a few friends with these now and have only fixed one issue. At the base of the older reverb posts there is a large chunky circlip that holds the internals inside the post. This circlip takes all of your body weight. The new 2016 posts have a flimsy looking spiral clip in place of the circlip. I have seen these spiral clips let go which makes a mess of the inside of a carbon frame when the insides of the post plunge downward under full body weight. Hose barb usually breaks off at the same time. This is the only negative experience I have had with the new post design.


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## jobo_ph (Oct 13, 2015)

niva1989 said:


> The latest rebuild kits are pretty good and they come with an upgraded IFP piston. I haven't had an issues with these yet but I didn't really have an issue with the older IFP pistons either.
> 
> Looking at the new 2016 posts I can see they have made some improvements. I have a few friends with these now and have only fixed one issue. At the base of the older reverb posts there is a large chunky circlip that holds the internals inside the post. This circlip takes all of your body weight. The new 2016 posts have a flimsy looking spiral clip in place of the circlip. I have seen these spiral clips let go which makes a mess of the inside of a carbon frame when the insides of the post plunge downward under full body weight. Hose barb usually breaks off at the same time. This is the only negative experience I have had with the new post design.


Thank you for sharing your experience...

Do you replace these spiral clips with circlips to make the post more reliable?


----------



## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

jobo_ph said:


> Thank you for sharing your experience...
> 
> Do you replace these spiral clips with circlips to make the post more reliable?


No. the groove isn't wide enough for a circlip of that diameter. I straightened it out and it went back in pretty secure. I think now that it may not have been clipped in properly during assembly. This post now has a lot of km on it now without popping out again so maybe it isn't a design issue but an assembly issue. Still think it was a bad idea to change out that chunky circlip.


----------



## rhysjenz (Mar 3, 2012)

rhysjenz said:


> I've just installed a 31.6/150mm B1 version in the Scout frame I'm building up. Run into an interesting problem though...
> 
> The remote seems to have a leak somewhere.
> 
> ...


Just following this up for anyone searching later on... it looks like it's definitely a seal problem with my B2 remote. I transferred the A1 remote (which seems to be exactly the same) over and bled the system. Have put about 40km on it so far with no leaking.

Here's hoping that SRAM will fix the B2 remote on the house, seeing it was faulty out of the box.


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## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

I have a Reverb B2 non stealth that came on a used bike. It is maybe a 2013 or 2014 (Black speed adjuster, no Rock Shox on post, black collar). 

It works well enough after I did a bleed. However When I went to check the air pressure I was in for a surprise. I removed the air valve cap and some air hissed out along with fluid. I quickly put it back on. Post still works fine. 

I know something isn't right, but it is working ok now. I don't want to do anything that will make it not work and require service. BUT...what is going on? I read about bad valves, is that it? Why the fluid...bad seals?


----------



## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Doug said:


> I have a Reverb B2 non stealth that came on a used bike. It is maybe a 2013 or 2014 (Black speed adjuster, no Rock Shox on post, black collar).
> 
> It works well enough after I did a bleed. However When I went to check the air pressure I was in for a surprise. I removed the air valve cap and some air hissed out along with fluid. I quickly put it back on. Post still works fine.
> 
> I know something isn't right, but it is working ok now. I don't want to do anything that will make it not work and require service. BUT...what is going on? I read about bad valves, is that it? Why the fluid...bad seals?


Sounds like you have oil leaking internally into the air chamber. I'd say your IFP seals are worn. It may be working now but I don't think it will last long. Also it must be an A2 post if it's a couple of years old. Weird it doesn't say Rockshox on it though.


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## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

niva1989 said:


> Sounds like you have oil leaking internally into the air chamber. I'd say your IFP seals are worn. It may be working now but I don't think it will last long. Also it must be an A2 post if it's a couple of years old. Weird it doesn't say Rockshox on it though.


Yes, A2. That's what I meant. No rock shox on the top of the post.

What about the air leak? Is that normal?


----------



## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Doug said:


> Yes, A2. That's what I meant. No rock shox on the top of the post.
> 
> What about the air leak? Is that normal?


No it's not normal. The valve core might need replacing or tightening


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## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

niva1989 said:


> No it's not normal. The valve core might need replacing or tightening


Thanks, I'll leave it as is until I have a need to mess with it. I may also sell it and replace it with something a bit more reliable. Seems the Reverb is a fickle product with a complex design. Sure, works great, but a lot that can and does go wrong and is not easy to work on.


----------



## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

Welcome to the world of dropper posts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Doug said:


> Thanks, I'll leave it as is until I have a need to mess with it. I may also sell it and replace it with something a bit more reliable. Seems the Reverb is a fickle product with a complex design. Sure, works great, but a lot that can and does go wrong and is not easy to work on.


Nah. They are great. Easy to work on with the right tools. I have rebuilt a fair few of them. Haven't had issues with the ones I have rebuilt. You just need to take your time and do it properly. Some of the orings can be damaged during rebuild if your not careful then it can seem like it is a bad post.

RS don't treat home mechanics like morons and make parts and info easy to access. That's worth a lot of credit in my opinion.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

who has experienced this?

- full drop
- press remote
- extends but leaves around 10mm from full extension
- sit down
- press remote
- goes to full extension

happens intermittently. my reverb already has the new seal head straight off from purchase.


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## T3mppu (Sep 8, 2015)

Does anyone know where to get the latest IFP for rebuild?
Is it updated to the rebuild kits and can it be acquired separately as I bought the seals from general seal merchant so I would need only the IFP.

If the latest (blue skf) cannot be acquired the I would also be interested on the gen2 (black plastic) IFP as my other post is A1, if anyone has one laying around.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

T3mppu said:


> Does anyone know where to get the latest IFP for rebuild?
> Is it updated to the rebuild kits and can it be acquired separately as I bought the seals from general seal merchant so I would need only the IFP.
> 
> If the latest (blue skf) cannot be acquired the I would also be interested on the gen2 (black plastic) IFP as my other post is A1, if anyone has one laying around.


I bought some from worldwidecyclery.com but I had to buy a 10 pack.


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## MikkeG (Nov 5, 2016)

I bought a used 2015 Rockshox reverb stealth dropperpost and found out that it can't hold any locked position using the remote. I'm done bleeding and refilling the post with RS fluid. Anyone know how I can fix this? Thanks!


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

spyghost said:


> who has experienced this?
> 
> - full drop
> - press remote
> ...


Sounds like it could be air in the remote circuit but not 100% sure. Is it solid at full extension or does it feel spongy to sit on? Next time it happens try pumping the remote a couple of times without siting on the seat. Could also be a number of other things but try this first.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

MikkeG said:


> I bought a used 2015 Rockshox reverb stealth dropperpost and found out that it can't hold any locked position using the remote. I'm done bleeding and refilling the post with RS fluid. Anyone know how I can fix this? Thanks!


I suggest you strip the post down and rebuild from scratch. Where are you filling fluid in the post?


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## MikkeG (Nov 5, 2016)

niva1989 said:


> I suggest you strip the post down and rebuild from scratch. Where are you filling fluid in the post?


I filled the IFP tube with the fluid as shown from the SRAM video


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

niva1989 said:


> Sounds like it could be air in the remote circuit but not 100% sure. Is it solid at full extension or does it feel spongy to sit on? Next time it happens try pumping the remote a couple of times without siting on the seat. Could also be a number of other things but try this first.


solid at full extension. i'll try to rebleed and report back. funny if rebleed is needed, cant see leaks


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

spyghost said:


> solid at full extension. i'll try to rebleed and report back. funny if rebleed is needed, cant see leaks


Can be trapped air maybe.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

MikkeG said:


> I filled the IFP tube with the fluid as shown from the SRAM video


Ok so you've done a full rebuild? I don't remember seeing a video for the stealth rebuild, only a manual. Make sure your not setting IFP height for non-stealth post. Do you have all of the tools needed? Could be a pinched o'ring on main sealhead too. Easy to do.


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## MikkeG (Nov 5, 2016)

This is the video I was referring to:






Yes, I have the needed tools and checked all O rings. The bleed was successful as well but I still can't make the post lock on any position and I'm running out of fluid for another rebuild. Me getting frustrated.

Thanks by the way for the replies


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

MikkeG said:


> This is the video I was referring to:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ok. I haven't seen that video. They do leave out a few things that are in the manual so best to use the manual instead IMO. 
Thinking about this more I think that maybe your poppet valve spool isnt returning properly for some reason. If you put too much grease on it then it may not function properly. 
I'm not sure as I haven't had this issue before. Maybe something in the remote circuit is causing the issue like the lever plunger getting jammed on the way out?? You definitely got all of the oil out with the oil height tool set to the correct level?? Just clutching at anything to try and help.


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## MikkeG (Nov 5, 2016)

niva1989 said:


> Ok. I haven't seen that video. They do leave out a few things that are in the manual so best to use the manual instead IMO.
> Thinking about this more I think that maybe your poppet valve spool isnt returning properly for some reason. If you put too much grease on it then it may not function properly.
> I'm not sure as I haven't had this issue before. Maybe something in the remote circuit is causing the issue like the lever plunger getting jammed on the way out?? You definitely got all of the oil out with the oil height tool set to the correct level?? Just clutching at anything to try and help.


I'll see if I can get a hold of a manual. I'll check the grease on the poppet valve. Yes, I'm sure I got all the oil out. I was looking over the net for instructions to take the lever apart and see if that's where the problem is but haven't seen one.

Again, thanks for your inputs. Very much appreciate it.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

MikkeG said:


> I'll see if I can get a hold of a manual. I'll check the grease on the poppet valve. Yes, I'm sure I got all the oil out. I was looking over the net for instructions to take the lever apart and see if that's where the problem is but haven't seen one.
> 
> Again, thanks for your inputs. Very much appreciate it.


The lever is super easy. I couldn't find a manual for the lever either but just got stuck into it and it was easy. The hose barb just screws out of the lever. You will need to remove the lever from your handlebars to expose the retaining clip on the underside. It is a U shaped retaining clip that slots up into a groove in the lever bushing just use a small flat bladed screwdriver to lever it out. All the internals will come out when this is removed

The SRAM spare parts catalogue has an exploded view of the lever. See link below for spare parts catalogue. I just put a rebuild kit through mine and it feels much better.

https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...lt/files/techdocs/2015_rockshox_spc_rev_a.pdf

Full service manual:

https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...000000004211_rev_e_2014_reverb_stealth_sm.pdf


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## kenko (Oct 18, 2012)

I have bought a reverb stealth post for awhile and did not used it. I notice that my current bike seat diameter is 31.6..but the reverb I bought was 34.9...may I know could I just replaced the lowers of the post?


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

I've got the 0.5cm drop at the top thing (i.e. seat decompresses under weight) going on. 

Been reading that is likely a faulty seal... but, it had a full service 6-7 months ago.

During that visit to LBS, they recommended replacing the remote... This was done yesterday.

I've checked the psi and it's at the 250 mark. 

It's way out of the warranty window. 

I'll take it in again for one more look o_0

Sent from my kltedv using Tapatalk


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

kenko said:


> I have bought a reverb stealth post for awhile and did not used it. I notice that my current bike seat diameter is 31.6..but the reverb I bought was 34.9...may I know could I just replaced the lowers of the post?


I check parts list and it does look like the only thing you need to change is the lower post. You would need to be careful it isnt too tight or too loose when you fit it. You might have to change the 3 brass keys to a different diameter.

See for yourself:

https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...t/files/techdocs/2016_rockshox_spc_revb_0.pdf


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

targnik said:


> I've got the 0.5cm drop at the top thing (i.e. seat decompresses under weight) going on.
> 
> Been reading that is likely a faulty seal... but, it had a full service 6-7 months ago.
> 
> ...


It can easily become faulty in 6-7 months if it wasn't a good rebuild. Will definitely be a leaking ifp chamber through the main sealhead or oil bypassing the ifp piston itself. Most likely the main sealhead oring was damaged during assembly. I wouldn't spend money on a remote as I dont think that is what your problem is. If it was the remote it would be stuck extended or lowered.


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

targnik said:


> I've got the 0.5cm drop at the top thing (i.e. seat decompresses under weight) going on.
> 
> Been reading that is likely a faulty seal... but, it had a full service 6-7 months ago.
> 
> ...


Most likely the u-cup seal. I replaced it with the oring from the basic service kit. Been going great.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Haggis said:


> Most likely the u-cup seal. I replaced it with the oring from the basic service kit. Been going great.


I forgot about that u cup seal. Been a while since I've seen one. Definitely could be that too.


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## freshturk (Aug 11, 2016)

Ive got the slight suspensioning of the post and increased my pressure from 170 up to 250 and while not gone, it seems sightly better.

With this my post isnt as fast and on cold mornings the post is now painfully slow until the sun heats it up.

Anyone else see similar problems?


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

freshturk said:


> Ive got the slight suspensioning of the post and increased my pressure from 170 up to 250 and while not gone, it seems sightly better.
> 
> With this my post isnt as fast and on cold mornings the post is now painfully slow until the sun heats it up.
> 
> Anyone else see similar problems?


Sounds all too familiar. Sounds like you have a couple of issues. Definitely needs a rebuild with the latest version sealkit. This will have the new o'ring that replaces the u-cup seal on the inside of the main sealhead. It will also have the new IFP quad lip piston. The cold weather issue does sound like the remote needs a bleed but it could also be related to the internal issue too. You might be loosing remote fluid internally. Try ramping up the speed if you aren't at full yet this will help compensate for the remote issues but will only be temporary till you get the post rebuilt. If you have had it recently rebuilt then this is bad news I know but they may not have used the latest upgraded parts.


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## Uly (Aug 18, 2009)

So I just got my reverb A2 version back from warranty service with the B1 internals replacement. It was 6 months old at the time it blew up and I haven't ridden my bike in a month because it took the LBS a month to get if fixed. Just slapped it on and tried it out and the damn thing will not extend all the way. It's short by an inch and a half. I am done with this thing.


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## jobo_ph (Oct 13, 2015)

niva1989 said:


> I forgot about that u cup seal. Been a while since I've seen one. Definitely could be that too.


Hmmm, when I rebuilt my Reverb Stealth recently, I still used a U-cup seal in the inner seal head (from a full service kit I previously acquired). I wasn't aware of an o-ring that is similar in size to the u-cup seal.

Which one is it on this picture...

https://static.bike-components.de/c...Reverb-ab-Modell-2011-45617-0-1444054255.jpeg


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

jobo_ph said:


> Hmmm, when I rebuilt my Reverb Stealth recently, I still used a U-cup seal in the inner seal head (from a full service kit I previously acquired). I wasn't aware of an o-ring that is similar in size to the u-cup seal.
> 
> Which one is it on this picture...
> 
> https://static.bike-components.de/c...Reverb-ab-Modell-2011-45617-0-1444054255.jpeg


I think it is one of the bottom ones. It's a chunky one.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Uly said:


> So I just got my reverb A2 version back from warranty service with the B1 internals replacement. It was 6 months old at the time it blew up and I haven't ridden my bike in a month because it took the LBS a month to get if fixed. Just slapped it on and tried it out and the damn thing will not extend all the way. It's short by an inch and a half. I am done with this thing.


You should just be done with your LBS. Not the posts fault. It just needs someone to rebuilt it properly which takes all of 1-2hrs tops, not a month. I am assuming that you checked the air pressure? The reverb is the best dropper out there by far. They just need to be assembled with a bit of care and they won't give you any trouble. 
I wanted to upgrade to a 150mm dropper from a 125. Thought I would give a Fox Transfer a try as it was $150 cheaper. Easy to fit and fiddling with the cable took about the same time as a reverb remote bleed. The transfers actuation feels pretty crappy compared to the smooth action of the reverb which also feel better controlled than the transfer. The transfer just drops uncontrollably and bottoms out with a solid metallic thud that really puts you off. Feels very cheap compared to Reverb. Think I'll cut my losses and sell the transfer. I've still got a reverb on my trail bike and you can really notice how much better the reverb is. They are miles ahead of the rest and I don't think you have much other choice.

I suggest finding someone who knows their way around a reverb post and just get it assembled properly or buy the tools and give it a go. The manual and videos are the best.

Im sick of hearing about people getting poor service.

Sorry about the rant but poor service makes my blood boil. I rebuild my mates droppers for cost and a 6 pack of beer. They are all still going strong. Look how much time you have lost.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

RockShox still use the U-cup seal from the factory and in service kits for the main seal head.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Rick Draper said:


> RockShox still use the U-cup seal from the factory and in service kits for the main seal head.


Your right again as usual Rick. The last 2 seal kits I used were missing the u cup seal and I thought they had changed away from them. Just checked the latest kits I have in my spares and they still have the u cup. These are the latest and greatest too. I must have used a o'ring from a local supplier in place of the u cup the last couple. I'll see if I made note of it somewhere.

This guy below has a few ideas on this issue:

The Seatpost Whisperer | Blue Liquid Labs


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## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

Interesting idea about the ucup vs oring. Anyone know where to get the right size o- ring?


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Doug said:


> Interesting idea about the ucup vs oring. Anyone know where to get the right size o- ring?


I searched but I didn't write the size down. I'll measure up next time I'm rebuilding one and post the size. I actually thought I got it out of the new kit but looks like I was wrong. Just got some new kits for my spares and they have the u cup. It's been a few months since I did the rebuild with the o'ring so couldn't remember.


----------



## Uly (Aug 18, 2009)

niva1989 said:


> You should just be done with your LBS. Not the posts fault. It just needs someone to rebuilt it properly which takes all of 1-2hrs tops, not a month. I am assuming that you checked the air pressure? The reverb is the best dropper out there by far. They just need to be assembled with a bit of care and they won't give you any trouble.
> I wanted to upgrade to a 150mm dropper from a 125. Thought I would give a Fox Transfer a try as it was $150 cheaper. Easy to fit and fiddling with the cable took about the same time as a reverb remote bleed. The transfers actuation feels pretty crappy compared to the smooth action of the reverb which also feel better controlled than the transfer. The transfer just drops uncontrollably and bottoms out with a solid metallic thud that really puts you off. Feels very cheap compared to Reverb. Think I'll cut my losses and sell the transfer. I've still got a reverb on my trail bike and you can really notice how much better the reverb is. They are miles ahead of the rest and I don't think you have much other choice.
> 
> I suggest finding someone who knows their way around a reverb post and just get it assembled properly or buy the tools and give it a go. The manual and videos are the best.
> ...


Yup, remote bled and pressure at 250.

Too bad about the Transfer. I was hoping it would be a reliable mechanical replacement.

The search goes on.


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

niva1989 said:


> I searched but I didn't write the size down. I'll measure up next time I'm rebuilding one and post the size. I actually thought I got it out of the new kit but looks like I was wrong. Just got some new kits for my spares and they have the u cup. It's been a few months since I did the rebuild with the o'ring so couldn't remember.


It is in the basic service kit.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Uly said:


> Yup, remote bled and pressure at 250.
> 
> Too bad about the Transfer. I was hoping it would be a reliable mechanical replacement.
> 
> The search goes on.


I can't comment on the reliability of the Transfer yet. It has just made me appreciate the Reverb operation a bit more. I might leave it on for a bit longer and see how it goes, $150 is a fair bit of a saving.

The market is being flooded by very cheap posts with throw away gas strut cartridges like the ones on your car hatchback doors. Time will tell how reliable they are. I think the Transfer might just be another one of these but haven't had it apart to see. My mates Trek Slash came with a Bontrager post that sucked up dirt like a vacuum and siezed up after 2 runs. When I opened it up it was full of dirt and dust. It was pretty simple to pull apart but if it clogs up that quickly it isn't worth it.
I'm still going to recommend a reverb to anyone that asks.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Haggis said:


> It is in the basic service kit.
> 
> View attachment 1106221
> 
> ...


Haha maybe that's where I found it or maybe they put one in the kit by mistake.


----------



## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Haggis said:


> It is in the basic service kit.
> 
> View attachment 1106221
> 
> ...


Haha maybe that's where I found it or maybe they put one in the full kit I had by mistake. That would explain why I didn't write it down thinking that is how all the kits were going to be from now on.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

niva1989 said:


> ...My mates Trek Slash came with a Bontrager post that sucked up dirt like a vacuum and siezed up after 2 runs...


I had been considering one of the new Bontrager Dropline posts to replace my Reverb. Do you know how the dirt got in it? Does it have a typical dust seal around the stanchion or something else?

One reason I was considering the Dropline is that I greatly prefer its under-the-bar paddle remote to the Reverb's plunger, which costs $100+ to move under the bar.


----------



## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

Lone Rager said:


> One reason I was considering the Dropline is that I greatly prefer its under-the-bar paddle remote to the Reverb's plunger, which costs $100+ to move under the bar.


Huh? just buy the model with RH remote and flip it over for under LHS. That's what everyone does


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Lone Rager said:


> I had been considering one of the new Bontrager Dropline posts to replace my Reverb. Do you know how the dirt got in it? Does it have a typical dust seal around the stanchion or something else?
> 
> One reason I was considering the Dropline is that I greatly prefer its under-the-bar paddle remote to the Reverb's plunger, which costs $100+ to move under the bar.


It has a lip seal but obviously isn't doing a good job at keeping the dirt out. The gas strut cartridge isn't very strong on the return so any extra friction stops it in its tracks. My mate said it is mine if I could get it working again. I took it apart, cleaned and greased then it was like new. I am keeping it as a spare. I wouldn't trust it. It is one of many cheap replaceable cartridge posts flooding the market. Reverb is by far the best choice. As Haggis said you can by reverb with RH remote to mount under LH.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Haggis said:


> Huh? just buy the model with RH remote and flip it over for under LHS. That's what everyone does


Brilliant, if you don't already have the LH model that came on the bike. The RH remote itself is the $100+ I mentioned. Even then, it's still the awkward, IMO, plunger rather than a paddle. Yes, there is an after-market cable conversion available that replaces the plunger with a paddle. That too is $100+.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Lone Rager said:


> Brilliant, if you don't already have the LH model that came on the bike. The RH remote itself is the $100+ I mentioned. Even then, it's still the awkward, IMO, plunger rather than a paddle. Yes, there is an after-market cable conversion available that replaces the plunger with a paddle. That too is $100+.


I'm currently trying out a Fox transfer and I don't rate the cable and paddle. I still have a reverb on my other bike and much prefer the plunger as it feels better. The plugger also stays straight as you push down on it. The paddle starts to slope away as the further you depress it. It has a much larger stroke to release the post and it feels Ike you need to move your whole hand. The plugger is just a quick thumb action push. The thing I miss the most as I mentioned before is the control when lowering the seat. The reverb has a controlled cushioned drop. The Fox and other posts like it just slam down uncontrolled. It really puts you off.


----------



## T3mppu (Sep 8, 2015)

MikkeG said:


> I bought a used 2015 Rockshox reverb stealth dropperpost and found out that it can't hold any locked position using the remote. I'm done bleeding and refilling the post with RS fluid. Anyone know how I can fix this? Thanks!


Have you resolved this issue yet?

In my last A1 (non-stealth) rebuild, which I did without the reverb tools, I first set the poppet valve too deep (the post was empty), which resulted it being always open and closing when remote was fully pressed.
I think that the RockShox bleed procedure prevents this, as there will be oil to make sure the depth is right.

As I didn't have the bleed tools and the post was empty, I closed the poppet valve assembly, bled the remote (fills also the poppet valve cavity on top of the post), left the other syringe on, then pressed the poppet from inside the post. (the syringe relieved the excess oil when pressing)
The poppet has this little post in the center of it, which delimits the proper depth.

After the poppet valve was in correct depth, it worked as supposed to.


----------



## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

T3mppu said:


> Have you resolved this issue yet?
> 
> In my last A1 (non-stealth) rebuild, which I did without the reverb tools, I first set the poppet valve too deep (the post was empty), which resulted it being always open and closing when remote was fully pressed.
> I think that the RockShox bleed procedure prevents this, as there will be oil to make sure the depth is right.
> ...


It's been a long time since I rebuilt my non-stealth Reverb but I remember just pushing the poppet in as far as it would go then putting the cap and circlip in. I think the trick with the non stealth is to leave the bleed screw out till your ready to bleed the remote..??

Hopefully Mike has this sorted by now. Mike, how did you go?


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## T3mppu (Sep 8, 2015)

niva1989 said:


> It's been a long time since I rebuilt my non-stealth Reverb but I remember just pushing the poppet in as far as it would go then putting the cap and circlip in. I think the trick with the non stealth is to leave the bleed screw out till your ready to bleed the remote..??
> 
> Hopefully Mike has this sorted by now. Mike, how did you go?


That's the idea, but if the post is empty as in my make shift method without the actual bleed tools (RockShox Reverb rebuild (without Reverb bleed tools) ? T3mppu.kapsi.fi), the poppet valve will go too deep and have to be pressed back inside after the cap and circlip is on.
This method also requires that the remote must be bled before the internals are filled with oil as I'm using the remote to let the IFP move.

Althought the method was not very effective with the latest and greatest SKF IFP. 
It is so tight, that instead of it moving, the piston tube pops up when pressing down the piston 
Unfortunately my phone broke after the rebuild before it uploaded the photos to cloud, so I lost all the photos, but I will write better instructions when I rebuild my other (A2 non-stealth) post.

I also recommend getting the RockShox bleed tools when working with the new SKF IFP.


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## T3mppu (Sep 8, 2015)

Now I have done it...

I got the new IFP stuck at the bottom (or top of the post).

I was rebuilding my other reverb with 100mm drop and used the IFP depth of 125mm reverb (my other reverb that I rebuilt a few days ago.

Any ideas how to get it out?


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

Tried the zip tie method?


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## T3mppu (Sep 8, 2015)

Haggis said:


> Tried the zip tie method?


That's how I usually remove it, but it cannot be used in this situation as the IFP is on pressed as deep as it goes. It is around the poppet valve / piston tube base and there is only around 5mm depth on the inside to grab it.

I've tried to pull it with what I have in my garage, but with no luck.
The new SKF IFP is really tight to begin with and also very light (the old metal IFP with o-rings was much looser and probably could have been removed with enough momentum).
I think I'll need an internal bearing extractor type tool, but it has to be very small as the IFP ID is 14mm and the ID of the post is 20mm and the tool must be able to fit 100+mm inside the tube.

Luckily my handy friend has a 3D printer and has made me a tool, we'll see if that helps.


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## RockySpieler (Jan 8, 2012)

After some help please.

Like a few other members I run a RH reverb lever upside down on the LH of the handlebars. In this configuration the knob on the end of the piston slightly touches my shimano brake clamp. I had a idea to drill and tap a new hole in the knob so that it could be rotated 180 degrees, this worked OK. Unfortunately in the process I dropped the small grub screw on the floor (a few hours later I have given up looking for it).

Does anyone know the size of this screw please, I think it is a M3 coned grub screw 10mm with a T10.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

So my Reverb (not sure if its A1 or A1, but its NOT B1) is getting quite slow on the return and is probably due for service. I've watched the videos from RS and it doesn't look THAT intimidating. As someone who can do an air sleeve service on a Fox Float in about 20 minutes, how much more challenging is the Reverb rebuild?

And is there a summary list somewhere, of the tips and tricks people have learned? Like using an O-ring on the U-cup (or replacing u-cup, not quite sure what "o-ring that sucker" above means)?


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

T3mppu said:


> That's how I usually remove it, but it cannot be used in this situation as the IFP is on pressed as deep as it goes. It is around the poppet valve / piston tube base and there is only around 5mm depth on the inside to grab it.
> 
> I've tried to pull it with what I have in my garage, but with no luck.
> The new SKF IFP is really tight to begin with and also very light (the old metal IFP with o-rings was much looser and probably could have been removed with enough momentum).
> ...


Make a couple of hooks with some suitable gauge wire? File the ends smooth to avoid scratching anything.


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

007 said:


> So my Reverb (not sure if its A1 or A1, but its NOT B1) is getting quite slow on the return and is probably due for service. I've watched the videos from RS and it doesn't look THAT intimidating. As someone who can do an air sleeve service on a Fox Float in about 20 minutes, how much more challenging is the Reverb rebuild?
> 
> And is there a summary list somewhere, of the tips and tricks people have learned? Like using an O-ring on the U-cup (or replacing u-cup, not quite sure what "o-ring that sucker" above means)?


If you're comfortable doing basic work on suspension then you'll manage Reverb servicing fine. You do need a bench vice, soft jaws, correct tools, grease etc, but you can get away without the pricey crows foot adapters for setting torque if you have an educated arm. Attention to detail goes a long way...


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

007 said:


> So my Reverb (not sure if its A1 or A1, but its NOT B1) is getting quite slow on the return and is probably due for service. I've watched the videos from RS and it doesn't look THAT intimidating. As someone who can do an air sleeve service on a Fox Float in about 20 minutes, how much more challenging is the Reverb rebuild?
> 
> And is there a summary list somewhere, of the tips and tricks people have learned? Like using an O-ring on the U-cup (or replacing u-cup, not quite sure what "o-ring that sucker" above means)?


Do you have more than 3mm of squish at top out? Do you have more than 225 psi in your post? Have you tried to bleed the remote first? I would check these first before doing a rebuild.


007 said:


> .... As someone who can do an air sleeve service on a Fox Float in about 20 minutes, how much more challenging is the Reverb rebuild...


Well rockshox/avid/sram like to do a "de-gassing" style of bleed in their stuff that requires the use of syringes and fittings. It takes a couple of times to get a feel for it but when done right you get that sweet sound of zero cavitation or squish in the system.


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## T3mppu (Sep 8, 2015)

Haggis said:


> Make a couple of hooks with some suitable gauge wire? File the ends smooth to avoid scratching anything.


I tried all kinds of things to gouge it out, but with no luck.

Even the 3D printed extractor wasn't strong enough, as the IFP was sunken around the poppet valve stem and thus had very little gripping surface left on the inside.

Finally I gave up and used superglue to add grip between the extractor tool and the IFP.


After I got it out I used acetone to remove the superglue.
Now I just have to hope that I haven't scratched anything while fumbling with different methods to get the IFP out.

Now I have rebuilt the post, but the poppet valve/remote returns really slowly. I'm guessing that after all the hassle, the oil level might be wrong.

*Does anyone have the RockShox oil level tool* and could give me dimensions of it so I could get the oil level correct?


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

LBS got my RR back up and running again... 

Initial discussions re, cause centered around the prior mentioned seal.

However, it ended up being the bottom out system (can't remember exactly what he called it).

He asked me if I slammed the post down when I lower it whilst riding along. He then informed me that I should gently depress post whilst riding.

I haven't had it (& bike) back out on trails yet. But, I did try and practice my finesse whilst out riding my other bike (±dropper).

For a Clyde, this is easier said than done o_0

Guess I'll be revisiting him in another 6-7 months time for another tune up.

On a positive note, it was relatively cheap to do.

Sent from my kltedv using Tapatalk


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

*Here's my*

Shameless plug...


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## Uly (Aug 18, 2009)

targnik said:


> LBS got my RR back up and running again...
> 
> Initial discussions re, cause centered around the prior mentioned seal.
> 
> ...


So my rr has blown up on me twice now. After I got it back from warranty service is when it blew up again after 2 rides on it. I'm thinking that what you describe is what happened to mine. IT blew up on the same section where it's rough before a drop. So when I drop the post there usually is no choice but for it to bottom out because it's so rough.


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## hobdog31 (Jun 14, 2014)

Is it possible to convert a 125 stealth to a 150 by replacing the lower tube or any other parts?


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

There are some bits and pieces that you _don't_ have to change, but basically you need to replace the whole post. It is possible to change the diameter of the post by changing the outer tube and convert the short 125mm post to long 125mm post by changing outer tube and main piston/poppet and adding spacer.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

niva1989 said:


> Can be trapped air maybe.


i just had the chance to rebleed the remote. i'm pretty sure i got all bubbles out of the remote. pressing the button feels solid. this time i feel a bit of bounce at full extension only. at full extension, press the saddle down and it will go down a few mm then spring back up... this wasn't like this prior to remote rebleed.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

The oil in the remote is not connected to the oil in the post. It serves only to operate the valve in the post, like the cable does in cable actuated posts. If your post is firm, you can cut the remote hose and it will still be firm. Same goes for if it's squishy. Bleeding the remote only affects how well the remote controls the valve in the post.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

when you guys rebuild a reverb, do you replace all the rings that come with the kit or just those that need replacing?

i'm thinking of just openning up my post and taking out all the rings and just buy them per piece (viton) from a local shop instead of getting the entire kit from SRAM.

is a full 120ml bottle more than enough for a reverb rebuild?

with that in mind... what are the indications that
- the internal seal head assembly needs to be replaced (ie not just the orings)
- the external top cap needs to be replaced (ie not just the orings)


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

Careful with that approach. There are some funny size imperial o-rings my local seal supplier couldn't source, and to get some of them out requires careful skewering with a sharp point, so it's a one-way process. I'd err on the safe side and only replace the obvious wear candidates - you need the bushing in the basic kit anyway


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

ok, i peeked under the post and it was damp with oil - the scent as well. the oil is present around and in the valve. 

the pressure was just around 180psi. i bumped it up to 250. upon release, some oil and air spurted out. re checking the pressure it was down to 225. i bumped it around 275 and released. rechecking it was now 250. repeat.

there's still a barely noticeable squish that's just around 3mm by arm force. not enough to be felt by the a$$ but by the hand when pushed down.

this still warrants a rebuild though... the 400h kit perhaps but i dont really know how many hours i've spent here. for certain it's a year of weekend rides that's 5-8 hours/wk. and yea it's approaching the 400th hr mark of use. not a bad estimate by SRAM/RS imo.

i wonder if the blue ifp prolongs service interval (i doubt). given the presence of oil i reckon this is more of the rings in the internal seal head and the air shaft.

got an idea (not sure if this has been mentioned somewhere)....
reduce air pressure to a value that will provide the desired return speed with the remote all the way to +... thoughts?


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## T3mppu (Sep 8, 2015)

I think that there is always just a little oil inside reverb air chamber.
In the rebuild process the tube is full of oil when IFP is inserted and after the piston is inserted, the excess oil is just poured out. Thus some oil always remains in the air side of the IFP tube.

The 25psi drop is probably due to your pump, i.e. it lowers the total pressure when the pump/hose is pressurized, as total volume increases.
You can try to verify this by screwing in the pump and just before it is deep enough to open the valve, you pump some pressure inside the pump hose, then screw it in to open the valve.


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## Mike_1969_cb450 (Feb 17, 2014)

*RockShox Reverb Remote O ring*

I found a direct replacement for the O ring inside the remote. There are 2 O rings. One inside the slow / fast adjustment for which I do not have a replacement for, this one sees little work and likely never wears out.

The other slides up and down when you push the button and does wear out. If your seat moves slowly, you need to bleed the remote. If you have to bleed more often than you wish, you need to replace this O ring.

It is a quad O ring, it has 4 sealing wipers. Two on the riding surface of the piston. So, I ordered it from McMaster Carr and they shipped me O rings from Orings Inc in California. Orings Inc does not have this listed on their web site. The size is: 1.5mm x 3.5mm ID BN70 Quad

10 O rings for around $11


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

spyghost said:


> ...i bumped it up to 250. upon release, some oil and air spurted out. re checking the pressure it was down to 225. i bumped it around 275 and released. rechecking it was now 250. repeat....


When you attach a pump or gauge to shock or seatpost, it will always read less than what was in the shock or post due to the air that is needed to pressurize the pump or gauge. If the valve and pump are working correctly, when you pumped it up to 250 and took the pump off, it was still at 250 in the post. As soon as you attached the pump again, air was let out to pressurize the pump and it read lower than what was actually in the post.


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

Mike_1969_cb450 said:


> I found a direct replacement for the O ring inside the remote. There are 2 O rings. One inside the slow / fast adjustment for which I do not have a replacement for, this one sees little work and likely never wears out.
> 
> The other slides up and down when you push the button and does wear out. If your seat moves slowly, you need to bleed the remote. If you have to bleed more often than you wish, you need to replace this O ring.
> 
> ...


Great info


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

q on vise blocks for air shaft...

those who have rebuilt a reverb, did you use sram's brass vise block? i find the price too steep at around $45 on the average.









compared to these which costs only at around $10-15. i find these more suitable 'price-wise' that is...

















which among the 3 alternatives above is safe for the air shaft of the reverb?

yes i know that it has to do with the clamping force, but of course material choice also has to do with it... plastic (yellow), nylon (black), or aluminum (silver)


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## PabloGT (Jun 22, 2014)

My 150mm 6 month old stealth has started sagging 10mm or so at the top and squidy when down by a similar amount. Unsure what revision it is, but I'd guess an A1 or 2. I've bled it and checked the pressure and it made no difference to the sag. I remember reading the earlier models you could put a little oil into the top of the post, can you do this with the stealths by removing the valve core and putting oil in there? Would really like to at least try to solve this without sending it away for a rebuild.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

As you discovered, bleeding the remote or changing the pressure won't fix sag. Sag is due to air having gotten into the column of oil that supports the rider. Adding oil in through the air valve won't help as it'd be adding oil into the air column above the IFP, where there's supposed to be air, not oil. 

One thing you might try that I've found can work as an interim fix is to turn the bike upside down (protecting the items on the bars if needed), activate the remote and compress the seat post, leave it compressed and let go of the remote, turn the bike right side up, then allowing the post to extend. This can push the air out of the oil column into the oil beneath the IFP. It's not a permanent fix as air doesn't belong there and can get into the oil column again over time and use.


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## PabloGT (Jun 22, 2014)

Thanks I will give that a go :thumbsup:


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

I've had my stealth for about 2 years now. Bought it used on top of that. Rebuilt it once. Worked very well for me. But wanted something different and wanted 150mm with better remote positioning, so I went with a fox transfer with wolftooth remote. Hopefully it's as reliable as my reverb. Which seems ironic as this thread has so many problems with reverb. I never had any leak issues. Dropped only about 2mm sag. But nothing really to complain about.


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## cdnblur (Apr 26, 2008)

Servicing seatpost but collar is so incredibly tight I can't get it undone. Post is clamped with soft jaws in vice but post still spins. Tried wd-40. Tried tightening vice more! Tried heating up the collar. No luck yet. Anyone have any useful tricks for getting this thing loosened off?


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

cdnblur said:


> Servicing seatpost but collar is so incredibly tight I can't get it undone. Post is clamped with soft jaws in vice but post still spins. Tried wd-40. Tried tightening vice more! Tried heating up the collar. No luck yet. Anyone have any useful tricks for getting this thing loosened off?


some do it from the seattube...

another trick is to wrap a single layer of inner tube.


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

Aluminium soft jaws should be able to hold it sufficiently. You could try wrapping some rubber grip cloth around the post. I think I used some to loosen and tighten the collar.


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## cdnblur (Apr 26, 2008)

Thanks for the seat tube and inner tube suggestions! I'll try those for reassembly. I did get the collar undone by putting the seatpost into the freezer for a couple of hours, then clamped it into the soft jaws, then heated up the collar with a hair dryer. Came off easily!!


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## zgxtreme (Mar 25, 2007)

If anyone is looking for a new, never installed Stealth B1 I have got mine posted in the classifieds. Is a 125mm model, 31.6 diameter, 440mm length with remote still in packaging as sent by Trek.


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## grizzler (Mar 30, 2009)

Sending my 6 month old stealth b1 150mm to SRAM. Sagging about 6mm, very noticeable and audible when riding. Checked pressure and when I removed the post there was some oil around the bottom. 

Just in case anyone is wondering about the b1 being more reliable. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

I had the first generation stealth for 2 years no problems. Then rebuilt it. Still ok for another year. Just wanted a 150mm post so I bought a fox transfer recently. Only one ride in. So far so good.


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## Uly (Aug 18, 2009)

Uly said:


> So my rr has blown up on me twice now. After I got it back from warranty service is when it blew up again after 2 rides on it. I'm thinking that what you describe is what happened to mine. IT blew up on the same section where it's rough before a drop. So when I drop the post there usually is no choice but for it to bottom out because it's so rough.


FYI. Ed Kilbourn and Duncan Britt from Competitive Cyclist went to bat for me with RockShox. RockShox is sending me out a new B1. It's been a long road but it is finally getting resolved. Thanks to the Competitive Cyclist team for their great customer service!!!!


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## stonant (Mar 11, 2016)

I took a nasty digger a few months ago and my post developed squish and was super slow on the return. 

I bled the post twice to make sure all air was gone. Squish is not an issue, but it is super slow to return. I also noticed that my seat was super slow to return even in 40-50 *F weather prior to the spill. 

When bleeding, I made sure to un-screw speed adjust to its slowest, and I also made sure to work all possible angles on the plunger to remove any air from the remote itself. Can't think of anything else that will cause a slow return. Checked that the air cartridge was at proper psi and it was. 

Any advice? Due for a rebuild soon so maybe that will help.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

I'm on my second ride on a used B1 (previous owner had an older model that SRAM apparently upgraded), and while riding muddy trails yesterday, I noticed that the upward travel is feeling "gritty."

Is it normal for Reverbs to not tolerate mud?

How difficult a service is it to strip and clean it just enough to get rid of whatever grit got in there?


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Andeh said:


> I'm on my second ride on a used B1 (previous owner had an older model that SRAM apparently upgraded), and while riding muddy trails yesterday, I noticed that the upward travel is feeling "gritty."
> 
> Is it normal for Reverbs to not tolerate mud?
> 
> How difficult a service is it to strip and clean it just enough to get rid of whatever grit got in there?


unless something got passed the seals, a simple wipe and a few pumps will smoothen it out. a worn bushing perhaps?


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## jnashed (Sep 12, 2016)

So my tube came disconnected from the controller after a ride. Hydraulic fluid leaked out. I plan on doing a bleed and fluid replacement. Question, how do I safely put the seat back in the up position prior to the bleeding? It was in down when the tube came undone. Or do I have to even worry about getting the seat back up prior to doing the bleed and fluid fill?


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

jnashed said:


> So my tube came disconnected from the controller after a ride. Hydraulic fluid leaked out. I plan on doing a bleed and fluid replacement. Question, how do I safely put the seat back in the up position prior to the bleeding? It was in down when the tube came undone. Or do I have to even worry about getting the seat back up prior to doing the bleed and fluid fill?


Did the post sink when the hose came off? If not, I would reinstall the hose and bleed like usual. The fluid in the hose "pushes" the valve open in the post.


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## jnashed (Sep 12, 2016)

Post was down when the tube connection came undone. Upon closer inspection the connector that screws into the controller broke, so I'll have to get a replacement part for that. 

I will replace that and bleed and fill then, and once more fluid returns I assume the seat will go back up and I can continue the bleed process as directed.


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## Steve-XtC (Feb 7, 2016)

I just realised I've been doing something stupid...
The Reverb is fitted to a used bike I bought and I've been sticking the seatpost into the bike rack...

Probably not co-incidentally it's now started *slightly *sticking on the way up...
In most cases a extra press of the release it comes back up.... sometimes not.

With 57 pages I'm not sure where to start... but I'm keen not to make anything worse.

I see official bleed kits are fairly expensive and some after market ones exist. 
As a one off I'm wondering if it might be best getting the LBS to take a look.. as this will probably cost about the same as the bleed kit... and my LBS is also the trail centre and they must have 20+ Reverb Stealth's in their fleet...so their mechanic deals with them on a daily basis.

From a mechanics point of view I usually draw the line after brakes and before suspension.... and send the suspension to get professionally serviced but the seatpost falls (IMHO) between those....

Incidentally the bike regularly spends time with the seatpost compressed and upside down .... as it goes on the back seat of my car....


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## stonant (Mar 11, 2016)

It's as difficult if not a little more difficult than suspension. Bleeding is super easy, it's just screws and plunging syringes. A bleed kit will pay for itself. If it needs a rebuild or a tear-down then get a quote from the LBS.


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## allen mueller (Mar 23, 2010)

Getting ready to do a rebuild on my A2 non stealth version reverb. I've got some rotational play were the casting for the seat clamp screws into the post. I thought I read where someone had a similar problem, but can't find it. I know from some cutaways that it is a threaded interface. Here's a shot of what i'm talking about. I put an arrow, and highlighted it. 








Whats odd is even though its threaded it doesn't keep unscrewing so i'm not sure whats holding it back. My thought is dissemble, add some red loctite, and tighten it back up. I'm hesitating since it doesn't unscrew even though it has free play. I don't want to force it if there is something unseen that holding it back.

Any suggestions?

Al


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## T3mppu (Sep 8, 2015)

PabloGT said:


> My 150mm 6 month old stealth has started sagging 10mm or so at the top and squidy when down by a similar amount. Unsure what revision it is, but I'd guess an A1 or 2. I've bled it and checked the pressure and it made no difference to the sag. I remember reading the earlier models you could put a little oil into the top of the post, can you do this with the stealths by removing the valve core and putting oil in there? Would really like to at least try to solve this without sending it away for a rebuild.


There is a similar way to add oil to a stealth reverb.
It requires a fork oil level tool and is done from the lower end of the post.

I bought a cheap second hand A2 125mm stealth reverb as it had 40mm of sag.
Then tried to fix it without a full rebuild and was successful.
I wrote a little guide on it: Reducing sag on Reverb Stealth ? T3mppu.kapsi.fi

I first tested it on an one hour ride in -10C and it was all good.
The next ride was -17C and that was too much for the reverb as it developed 20mm of sag during the ride, so now I redid the same fix


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## T3mppu (Sep 8, 2015)

allen mueller said:


> Getting ready to do a rebuild on my A2 non stealth version reverb. I've got some rotational play were the casting for the seat clamp screws into the post. I thought I read where someone had a similar problem, but can't find it. I know from some cutaways that it is a threaded interface. Here's a shot of what i'm talking about. I put an arrow, and highlighted it.
> View attachment 1114248
> 
> 
> ...


Are you certain that the play is between the upper post and post (seat) head?

I too once though that there was such play, but the actual cause was the keying between upper and lower post, i.e. the whole upper post had some rotational play (as most reverbs do)

This is easily checked by putting some tape on both upper post and seat head to be certain that they move in relation to each other. 
(it is not easy to see if the shiny black upper post moves a little or not)

If it is in fact loose and you are going to take it apart, first completely disassemble the post.
There might be some pressure left inside and the IFP tube (pink in the picture) is compressed between the post head and internal seal head.


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## allen mueller (Mar 23, 2010)

T3mppu said:


> Are you certain that the play is between the upper post and post (seat) head?
> 
> I too once though that there was such play, but the actual cause was the keying between upper and lower post, i.e. the whole upper post had some rotational play (as most reverbs do)


I'm a dumb ass thanks for making me go back and check. I could sware it was moving there but I put some tape on it like you said with a witness mark and saw it was solid. It's crazy even with my fingers on it, it feels like that's where the play is. I guess the different surface finishes played tricks on my mind. I'm happy now cuause all I have to do is a traditional rebuild and I should be good. Thanks again.

Al


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Links to suitable pricy vice blocks for reverb please...
Aliexpress, ebay,...
Thanx.


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## Jaymanjibe (Nov 30, 2012)

ka81ua said:


> Links to suitable pricy vice blocks for reverb please...
> Aliexpress, ebay,...
> Thanx.


https://www.mcmaster.com/#vise-soft-jaws/=161b1fm


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## T3mppu (Sep 8, 2015)

Jaymanjibe said:


> https://www.mcmaster.com/#vise-soft-jaws/=161b1fm


Those are not very cheap and the D one looks like ParkTool AV-5. 
(which is also the one that I acquired as I couldn't find cheaper alternatives)

Axle and Spindle Vise Inserts | Park Tool


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## sundace (Jan 22, 2009)

Hallo! I am about to buy the 2017 model non-strealth.

i see that it has many changes to the older model:


Completely redesigned internals with new SKF internal floating piston
Improved performance and durability in all conditions
Increased bushing overlap

The model it replaces is the B1?

Do you think it will be reliable as a dropper?
I read here about sagging, play etc...

This is my first dropper.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

It's best for blocks to be un-anodized soft aluminum with radii that match the shaft being held so as not to scratch or distort it.


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## Uly (Aug 18, 2009)

sundace said:


> Hallo! I am about to buy the 2017 model non-strealth.
> 
> i see that it has many changes to the older model:
> 
> ...


It IS a B1.


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## K_Labs (Nov 3, 2008)

I have a reverb a2 I bought last week. It's leaking air from the bottom near the air fill. It holds air when it's all the way up and leaks it all out when collapsed. I pulled the c clip and the piston is buggered up from the previous owner. What kit do I need to buy to fix it? Also do I need to buy another piston?


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## K_Labs (Nov 3, 2008)

My reverb a2 leaks air out of the bottom when compressed. Which kit do I need to buy? Also the previous owner messed up the piston pretty badly with pliers.


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## T3mppu (Sep 8, 2015)

K_Labs said:


> I have a reverb a2 I bought last week. It's leaking air from the bottom near the air fill. It holds air when it's all the way up and leaks it all out when collapsed. I pulled the c clip and the piston is buggered up from the previous owner. What kit do I need to buy to fix it? Also do I need to buy another piston?


No seal kit helps if the piston rod is dented.

I have once dented mine when doing first rebuild and didn't have proper vise jaws.
The dent was very very small, barely noticeable by eye, but could be felt with fingernail and leaked air.

I was able to fix it with epoxy.
1) clean the dented area thoroughly (rubbing alcohol)
2) mark/restrict the dented area with tape
3) apply epoxy to the dented area
4) let the epoxy fully cure (24h or something, depends on your epoxy resin)
5) cut a few centimeters wide strip from a very fine emery paper (I think I used P800 or P1000)
6) put the emery paper around the piston, apply some cutting oil to prevent the emery for clogging and start smoothing the area by pulling from the ends of the emery strip
7) don't take too much at a time, feel the area with your fingernail and continue the process until it is smooth (preferably just before the finishing on the piston starts go)

It worked just fine for a year, but now sometimes in below zero (Celsius) temperatures, it might slowly leak, and I might need to add air every 3-5 rides.


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## stonant (Mar 11, 2016)

ignore this, needs a rebuild


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

stonant said:


> ignore this, needs a rebuild


I was wondering what happened to your post. Yes, rebuild. The lever release system bleed is totally separate to the internal oil system. Id say some air bypassed the seals internally and contaminated the ifp chamber which gives you the sag, its nothing to do with the lever. If its not that old the ifp chamber can just be bled and reassembled. 10 minute job once the post is removed from the bike.


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## stonant (Mar 11, 2016)

Thanks for the tip. It's a 2016 stealth, just need to figure out if it's A/B. Pretty sure it's an A1 but will figure it out with a quick google.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

stonant said:


> Thanks for the tip. It's a 2016 stealth, just need to figure out if it's A/B. Pretty sure it's an A1 but will figure it out with a quick google.


Just look at the bottom of the post. The previous models have a standard chunky circlip with holes for circlip pliers. The newer B1 model has a thinner clip with an edge to lever it out with a screwdriver.


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## foresterLV (Dec 25, 2016)

What might be the problem with Reverb dropper (A2) if it goes down just fine if seat is pressed down in center or front part, but is hard to push down when pressed at the back of the seat? 
Returning is fast, no squishy or much play.
That "no going down" if pushed at the seat back is annoying when approaching descends.
About 50 hours of riding on this reverb.

Sent from my SM-G900F


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

foresterLV said:


> What might be the problem with Reverb dropper (A2) if it goes down just fine if seat is pressed down in center or front part, but is hard to push down when pressed at the back of the seat?
> Returning is fast, no squishy or much play.
> That "no going down" if pushed at the seat back is annoying when approaching descends.
> About 50 hours of riding on this reverb.
> ...


Sounds like the teflon coated bushes are worn badly. It could have injested fine dirt which wore them out.


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

foresterLV said:


> What might be the problem with Reverb dropper (A2) if it goes down just fine if seat is pressed down in center or front part, but is hard to push down when pressed at the back of the seat?
> Returning is fast, no squishy or much play.
> That "no going down" if pushed at the seat back is annoying when approaching descends.
> About 50 hours of riding on this reverb.
> ...


That's what was going on with mine. The top cap bushing wore out after about a 1 year. Never knew until I rebuilt it.

Oh ,the rebuilt kit doesnt include the top cap. So I would order that too just in case.


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## foresterLV (Dec 25, 2016)

Thanks all for the update, I was kind of suspecting top bushings too...

I guess I will be riding and investigate rebuild possibilities. Considering that A2 are on sail here (~190) and service kit without specific tools/oils/grease is ~60 I might be better with buying just whole new unit and selling old. Will see.

Sent from my SM-G900F


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

foresterLV said:


> Thanks all for the update, I was kind of suspecting top bushings too...
> 
> I guess I will be riding and investigate rebuild possibilities. Considering that A2 are on sail here (~190) and service kit without specific tools/oils/grease is ~60 I might be better with buying just whole new unit and selling old. Will see.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F


Check eBay. Rebuilt kit around $50. And about the same for the top cap


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## foresterLV (Dec 25, 2016)

Just did "quick peak" inside:
1) there was water(oil?) in the air chamber, getting out when deflating
2) was not able to unscrew lower cup (need to get that wise adapter)
3) upper cap grease on stanchion inside was black/gray, sh*t got inside I guess
4) cleared as much as I could, regreased
5) reassemled, inflated to 200 psi, quick bleed

Now its better (you can push via middle end of seat easily), but still not ideal (far end can be pushed with effort but sometimes sticks). I will get that wise adapter (to unscrew lower cap) and try to clean/regrease better. 

Sent from my SM-G900F


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## BPH (Feb 18, 2017)

Hey. Hoping for a little advice. I have read the whole thread and nothing matches my problem!

My standard reverb has had very little use, is 6 month old and performs perfectly, EXCEPT....

...when the post is dropped for the first time, it won't drop smoothly. It's almost like it's stuck. It needs a small bump/wiggle to help it drop. Once that's done, it drops fine, and extends fine, then drops again absolutely fine, until it's been extended fully for about half an hour, and the issue repeats itself. 

Any ideas? It's only a niggling small problem, but certainly one that wasn't there at the beginning of its time!


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## foresterLV (Dec 25, 2016)

BPH said:


> Hey. Hoping for a little advice. I have read the whole thread and nothing matches my problem!
> 
> My standard reverb has had very little use, is 6 month old and performs perfectly, EXCEPT....
> 
> ...


What happens if you adjust remote to a slowest setting? If its getting worse bleeding of the cable should help.

Sent from my SM-G900F


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^^^Yes. It's also possible to over-tighten the post clamp so it restricts movement of the post. Check the clamp torque. I believe the spec is 6.7 Nm (60 in-lb) max.


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## foresterLV (Dec 25, 2016)

My reverb is much better after partial cleanup/regrease (was not able to remove lower cup, so no way to get into upper dust cover, need vice jaws thing for 9.5mm tube). No single "got stuck" situation on today ride.
I guess I will get vice jaws and will do dropper cleanup/regrease from time to time as shown in the video below. Then it will be time to do "service kit" thing.





Sent from my SM-G900F


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

Lone Rager said:


> ^^^Yes. It's also possible to over-tighten the post clamp so it restricts movement of the post. Check the clamp torque. I believe the spec is 6.7 Nm (60 in-lb) max.


That might be spec, but on my bike, anything over 3nm and it binds.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^^^ Yeah. It can be clamp dependent. Not saying this is your issues, but if a slot in the seatpost lines up with the slot in the clamp, it can really dig into the post. Arranging them so they don't line up can help. This is usually the default arrangement for use with carbon seatpost. Sometime they're 180 degrees apart but in some cases the seat tube may have two slots (Trek, for one) and the clamp slot is equidistant between the two.


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## galicano (Aug 9, 2011)

BPH said:


> Hey. Hoping for a little advice. I have read the whole thread and nothing matches my problem!
> 
> My standard reverb has had very little use, is 6 month old and performs perfectly, EXCEPT....
> 
> ...


it might be that you have an issue with the brass inserts since you wiggle your post before being able to put the post down. better make an appointment with a service or you can do it on your own with the right tools and instruction from sram via youtube.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

Question about the process to rebuild the Reverb stealth:

Pulled it apart last night for the first time to reset the IFP, oil and all that because I was sagging. I had to make my own IFP oil height gauge using one of my remote bleed syringes and a piece of aquarium air hosing. With my Reverb, my height it supposed to be 186.5mm. Fine no problem. But what I found is I couldn't get the tubing far down enough in the shaft to get the full 186.5. I was off by 4 or 5mm. I double checked and this is because the diameter of the hosing is too wide to fit through the blue 'thing' that presses into the IFP tube. I'll have to source a slimmer tube. I reassembled anyway just because I was at my wit's end. At the end of the day, the post is solid and seems to work fine....not trail tested yet. 

So how critical is that oil height? SRAM makes it look like it has to be on the money exactly.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Christopher Robin said:


> Question about the process to rebuild the Reverb stealth:
> 
> Pulled it apart last night for the first time to reset the IFP, oil and all that because I was sagging. I had to make my own IFP oil height gauge using one of my remote bleed syringes and a piece of aquarium air hosing. With my Reverb, my height it supposed to be 186.5mm. Fine no problem. But what I found is I couldn't get the tubing far down enough in the shaft to get the full 186.5. I was off by 4 or 5mm. I double checked and this is because the diameter of the hosing is too wide to fit through the blue 'thing' that presses into the IFP tube. I'll have to source a slimmer tube. I reassembled anyway just because I was at my wit's end. At the end of the day, the post is solid and seems to work fine....not trail tested yet.
> 
> So how critical is that oil height? SRAM makes it look like it has to be on the money exactly.


Ive got a proper oil height gauge and it only ever picks up small dregs of oil. The first few times I actually poured some oil in so the gauge had something to suck up but found it wasn't necessary. I don't think it needs to be that accurate. The best test is a working post.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

niva1989 said:


> Ive got a proper oil height gauge and it only ever picks up small dregs of oil. The first few times I actually poured some oil in so the gauge had something to suck up but found it wasn't necessary. I don't think it needs to be that accurate. The best test is a working post.


Perfect good to know. I didn't get a chance to try it out on the trail but the post seems to working fine. Thanks.


----------



## seamarsh (Mar 5, 2012)

BPH said:


> Hey. Hoping for a little advice. I have read the whole thread and nothing matches my problem!
> 
> My standard reverb has had very little use, is 6 month old and performs perfectly, EXCEPT....
> 
> ...


Did you find a solution?

I have the same issue, ill check the post collar to see if that helps.

new , 4 months old reverb 170mm


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## D3NN15M (May 8, 2011)

Will there be issues when a bike with a Reverb seatpost is stored upside down (hanging)? Thanks!


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

My bike spends a fair bit of time upside down but resting on the seat. It's good for your fork bushings and seals and I've never had it cause issue with the reverb.


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## D3NN15M (May 8, 2011)

niva1989 said:


> My bike spends a fair bit of time upside down but resting on the seat. It's good for your fork bushings and seals and I've never had it cause issue with the reverb.


Good to hear, thank you!


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## TeamRWB (Feb 19, 2014)

duplicate


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## TeamRWB (Feb 19, 2014)

So reading through here, it seems the sag is present even in the *Updated* model. I have the opportunity to get a good deal on one, cheaper than I can get any of the other External offerings out. Should I hold out, and Get a Fox or Thomson or will this be a reliable option. I noticed mention of using a RH remote vs a LH, and I may of missed an explanation of why skimming through here, so what is the benefit from this? I also read about replacing the u-cup seal with an o-ring, where can the o-ring needed be purchased from? And did anyone replace the Teflon bushing with a polymer made version of it, besides the guy in this blog, The Seatpost Whisperer | Blue Liquid Labs

Granted I wont do any of the Maint related aspects unless its needed or warranty expired. Just educating myself.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

TeamRWB said:


> So reading through here, it seems the sag is present even in the *Updated* model. I have the opportunity to get a good deal on one, cheaper than I can get any of the other External offerings out. Should I hold out, and Get a Fox or Thomson or will this be a reliable option. I noticed mention of using a RH remote vs a LH, and I may of missed an explanation of why skimming through here, so what is the benefit from this? I also read about replacing the u-cup seal with an o-ring, where can the o-ring needed be purchased from? And did anyone replace the Teflon bushing with a polymer made version of it, besides the guy in this blog, The Seatpost Whisperer | Blue Liquid Labs
> 
> Granted I wont do any of the Maint related aspects unless its needed or warranty expired. Just educating myself.


Don't know anything about your seal question (which I'll look into as well since I'm always looking for things to make the Reverb more reliable), but using the RH remote vs the LH is personal preference: Using the RH remote on the left side places the plunger below the handlebar so it's easier to access with your thumb. This is also providing you don't have a front derailleur.

Edit. After reading that article, I'd also like to know what size that seal is.


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## superkermit (Nov 14, 2013)

I am selling my bike and thinking I should take the reverb with me and put in the giant one I am buying from the 2nd hand giant bike.

Good idea?

giant - https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/trance-27dot5-1-2014

nukeproof - http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/help-me-identify-what-my-bike-price-sale-1034996.html

I like the reverb and it looks like a better seatdropper.

Will they swap out?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Hello?


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

RS VR6 said:


> Hello?
> 
> View attachment 1128148


you beat me to it 

in any case, i can't see it in sram site nor google results


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Could make an appearance at Sea Otter. That's where SRAM typically shows off new stuff.


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## TeamRWB (Feb 19, 2014)

Please have an external option!

Sent from the Beer Cloud


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

b1 still has external just up to 125 only


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## T3mppu (Sep 8, 2015)

Christopher Robin said:


> Edit. After reading that article, I'd also like to know what size that seal is.


I think that the O-ring is the same size as in externally routed reverb (3.5x9mm see RockShox Reverb Thread post #2211 ).

I just rebuilt one stealth and replaced the U-cup with O-ring.
The stealth U-cup was 10x15x4 and replacing O-ring 9.12x3.53 (couldn't source the 3.5x9).
Unfortunately I don't currently have a frame with stealth routing (planning on drilling my 2011 specialized enduro), but compressing by hand, it appears to be working just fine. More testing when I get it into frame.



TeamRWB said:


> Please have an external option!
> 
> Sent from the Beer Cloud


I don't see why it wouldn't work with externally routed as the current remotes in stealth and external are identical per revision (see rockshox spare parts manual 2017_rockshox_spc_rev_b.pdf , there are separate remotes for A1 and A2, but not for stealth/non-stealth)

The above image is from Vital MTB and there is some more info on the comments.
For example, the product page apparently exists, but is not allowed to access: https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/reverb-1x-remote

I am mainly waiting for the price, as with the current remote price I rather buy another DeHy kit to convert the post to wire controlled than expensive but different hydraulic.

Maybe the new construction will prevent the wear and leaking of the piston. (current design has only plastic bushing and there is usually sideload when pressing the remote)


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## Mithrandir (Nov 25, 2010)

RS VR6 said:


> Hello?
> 
> View attachment 1128148


I want one!! The original actuator is the thing I dislike the most on the Reverbs.


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## IndecentExposure (Sep 25, 2006)

I have successfully fixed the sag! I tore the entire seatpost apart and rebuilt it. I did use new IFP's, but was careful to make sure the oil was at the proper level. Thanks for everyone on this thread for all the helpful suggestions. We'll see how long this lasts!

A few notes:
My original IFP was pretty far down the tube. enough where the zip tie's wouldn't work. I ended up using 2 old spokes to 'hook' the IFP and used pliers to pull the thing out. Worked well.

It would help to have the specific vice clamps (10mm), but I used the yellow rubber ones and they worked 'okay'.

Once again, thank you to SRAM for making great videos. I literally just followed along.

IE


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## adcampo (Aug 10, 2007)

I'm switching from a left hand lever to a right hand lever mounted underneath on the left hand side. I've read I can do this without bleeding. Is that correct? Also, I'm assuming the new lever and cable will require trimming?


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

adcampo said:


> I'm switching from a left hand lever to a right hand lever mounted underneath on the left hand side. I've read I can do this without bleeding. Is that correct? Also, I'm assuming the new lever and cable will require trimming?


I think you will def have to bleed it especially if you are trimming the hose as you might need to use a new barb. I always bleed as it takes 5-10mins at the most.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

niva1989 said:


> I think you will def have to bleed it especially if you are trimming the hose as you might need to use a new barb. I always bleed as it takes 5-10mins at the most.


There is now barb in Reverb hose. You just screw the lever into the hose. If you are switching left hand lever to right hand lever on the left side just use the existing hose. If the new lever comes mounted to hose and filled with oil you might be able to avoid bleeding, but it's not sure.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

T3mppu said:


> For example, the product page apparently exists, but is not allowed to access: https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/reverb-1x-remote
> 
> I am mainly waiting for the price, as with the current remote price I rather buy another DeHy kit to convert the post to wire controlled than expensive but different hydraulic.


Google has cached the German page of the new reverb. Not much information, just picture from different angle. It comes with Bleeding Edge technology. Interesting how it works with Shimano brakes.

Price is important. e-thirteen new mechanical dropper post looks much better upgrade at the moment.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

arnea said:


> There is now barb in Reverb hose. You just screw the lever into the hose. If you are switching left hand lever to right hand lever on the left side just use the existing hose. If the new lever comes mounted to hose and filled with oil you might be able to avoid bleeding, but it's not sure.


There is a barb in the lever. It unscrews from the lever. Rebuild kit comes with a new one too. Only way lever will come with a hose and full of oil is with a new post attached to the other end.

I don't know why people try to avoid bleeding. It's very easy to do. Much easier than bleeding brakes. If you own a reverb chances are you will have to bleed it at some stage and the bleed kit is cheap.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

niva1989 said:


> There is a barb in the lever. It unscrews from the lever. Rebuild kit comes with a new one too. Only way lever will come with a hose and full of oil is with a new post attached to the other end.
> 
> I don't know why people try to avoid bleeding. It's very easy to do. Much easier than bleeding brakes. If you own a reverb chances are you will have to bleed it at some stage and the bleed kit is cheap.


Ok, I've never changed the barb, always unthreaded the hose from the barb and then threaded it back after I installed the hose in the frame. I got the Connectamajig version of the post and it is possible to remove the hose from post without loosing oil and needing the bleed. I don't remember how it was packaged - IIRC it was competely assembled and filled with oil.

And I agree, bleeding is easy.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

arnea said:


> Ok, I've never changed the barb, always unthreaded the hose from the barb and then threaded it back after I installed the hose in the frame. I got the Connectamajig version of the post and it is possible to remove the hose from post without loosing oil and needing the bleed. I don't remember how it was packaged - IIRC it was competely assembled and filled with oil.
> 
> And I agree, bleeding is easy.


I think it should be fine if you cut the end of the hose a little and have a fresh hose end to screw into. A friend of mine did this and didn't have any leaks but some air did get in when he unscrewed the lever. He may have bumped the plunger though. I had to re bleed it for him once fitted to the bike.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

arnea said:


> Google has cached the German page of the new reverb. Not much information, just picture from different angle. It comes with Bleeding Edge technology. Interesting how it works with Shimano brakes.
> 
> Price is important. e-thirteen new mechanical dropper post looks much better upgrade at the moment.


the only thing that keeps me on reverb is the external cable. if e13 were to have external, i'd to for it.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

niva1989 said:


> I think it should be fine if you cut the end of the hose a little and have a fresh hose end to screw into. A friend of mine did this and didn't have any leaks but some air did get in when he unscrewed the lever. He may have bumped the plunger though. I had to re bleed it for him once fitted to the bike.


I've unthreaded and threaded the lever for 8-9 times now without cutting the hose and never had any problem with leakage.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

spyghost said:


> the only thing that keeps me on reverb is the external cable. if e13 were to have external, i'd to for it.


Check out Features | Absenkbare Sattelstütze moveLOC | Vecnum GmbH - also mechanical, lightweight, with external cable.


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## IndecentExposure (Sep 25, 2006)

spyghost said:


> q on vise blocks for air shaft...
> 
> those who have rebuilt a reverb, did you use sram's brass vise block? i find the price too steep at around $45 on the average.
> 
> ...


I tried it with the Yellow rubber ones. They don't work so well.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

IndecentExposure said:


> I tried it with the Yellow rubber ones. They don't work so well.


which one works well?


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

I've found that the Aluminium Vice Blocks works better than the plastic and rubber ones. I've serviced many posts and never had a drama.


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

Ditto


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Don't mess about just buy the brass RS ones. They are the only type that grip properly and won't damage the shaft. It can also be used on other RS components like Pike/Lyrik damper and air shafts. If you damage a shaft it will cost you way more than $45. The RS shaft clamp Has much more surface area contact than those other ones you pictured. I also have good quality Park soft jaws and they don't hold the 10mm shaft with enough grip. $45 will seem very cheap when you get into trouble.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

http://enduro-mtb.com/en/first-ride-rockshox-reverb-1x-remote/


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## birdman86 (Jun 2, 2016)

Nice that'll be day one for me for sure. That button was just so awkward, $90 ain't cheap though.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I think it'll be 90 bucks well spent...I mean its a lever I'll be using all the time. I really didn't like the plunger on my Reverbs. I'm going to get one.


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## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

Bout time! Already have the Novyparts remote which is simple and tougher. Glad to see there is another option should i trash mine in a crash. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Has anyone tried ordering one? I went to my immediate LBS and said its not showing up on his vendor sites.


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

Call Sram. They are easy to get a hold of.


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## JAGI410 (Apr 19, 2008)

Probably won't see them out for another month at least.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

How much Reverb fluid is required for rebuild?


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## dreys (Jan 21, 2014)

I recently completed a rebuild of Reverb Stealth (A2), followed the directions to the letter from SRAM video.

The post no longer sags, however, way more force is required to press it down, and the post is very slow to go up. This is the case for slow speed settings (on the remote), as well as fast speed setting.

I verified PSI is at 250, and all lines and remote have been bled properly. What could be the issue? Did I miss something during the rebuild?


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

dreys said:


> I recently completed a rebuild of Reverb Stealth (A2), followed the directions to the letter from SRAM video.
> 
> The post no longer sags, however, way more force is required to press it down, and the post is very slow to go up. This is the case for slow speed settings (on the remote), as well as fast speed setting.
> 
> I verified PSI is at 250, and all lines and remote have been bled properly. What could be the issue? Did I miss something during the rebuild?


Over tightened seat post clamp?


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## dreys (Jan 21, 2014)

DZANINOVICH1 said:


> I am looking for the part pictured in this screenshot. It attaches to the inner shaft, where the poppet is inserted.
> View attachment 1040960
> 
> 
> ...


Did you end up finding that part or part #?


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## dreys (Jan 21, 2014)

gocat said:


> Over tightened seat post clamp?


I think I fixed, the issue was the poppet that had it seal misaligned. That made it difficult to push the fluid through, and as a result very slow action.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

arnea said:


> How much Reverb fluid is required for rebuild?


To answer my own question: 125mm Stealth needed ~1/3 of the small bottle.

I have new question: do the new blue IFPs have break-in time?

After the full service - new o-rings, brass keys, blue IFP, dust seal, lower bushing - the post is very stiff: no play in saddle, but it also takes more force to compress the post, it has sometimes trouble to fully rise and it squeaks.

I used same size of the brass keys and the upper sealhead also moved easily when I installed it, the IFP on the other hand had very tight fit and lots of stiction: it was hard to press it down with the IFP height tool.

Is this common? Or perhaps I did something wrong?


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

dreys said:


> I think I fixed, the issue was the poppet that had it seal misaligned. That made it difficult to push the fluid through, and as a result very slow action.


What seal was misaligned and how? I have a bit similar problem and would like to check the poppet valve seals.


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

arnea said:


> I have new question: do the new blue IFPs have break-in time?


Looks like they do. After couple of rides the post started to move smoothly.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

while cleaning the bike, i noticed that this has come lose









i'm not due for rebuild yet. do i simply have to tighten this?


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## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

*1x installed...*

Upgraded from standard remote to 1x...

Going to ride tonight and can give my thoughts. I think the ergonomics could have been better... lever is too far from the bar and too big of a swing arm for my taste, but it's pretty nice. Very light pressure to activate. I'm spoiled by the Wolftooth 1x though, which is 100% perfect for me. The weight difference is actually about 40-45g with the non-MMX clamp. You'll save 11g more if you use existing MMX.

View attachment 1135430
View attachment 1135431


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## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

Back from my ride. It's a winner! Besides an intermittent delay in the seat dropping once in a while, which may have been even before the 1x, I didn't once notice anything negative about the 1x. It worked perfectly and smoothly. No problems with ergonomics in actual riding. The layout really does mimic the SRAM 1x shifters. I have XX1 and it has almost exactly the same lever size/shape/position... it's just on the left side.

Took about 30-40min to setup... but I'm slow and anal. I did find out that the connectamajig doesn't work as well as they say with keeping air out. I only disconnected mine twice and it had a lot of air in it... making for a very slow return speed with my old remote. After the full system bleed it's really speedy now.

If you have $100 to blow on your bike, it's not a bad upgrade, I'm glad I did it.


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

SonomaBiker said:


> Back from my ride. It's a winner! Besides an intermittent delay in the seat dropping once in a while, which may have been even before the 1x, I didn't once notice anything negative about the 1x. It worked perfectly and smoothly. No problems with ergonomics in actual riding. The layout really does mimic the SRAM 1x shifters. I have XX1 and it has almost exactly the same lever size/shape/position... it's just on the left side.
> 
> Took about 30-40min to setup... but I'm slow and anal. I did find out that the connectamajig doesn't work as well as they say with keeping air out. I only disconnected mine twice and it had a lot of air in it... making for a very slow return speed with my old remote. After the full system bleed it's really speedy now.
> 
> If you have $100 to blow on your bike, it's not a bad upgrade, I'm glad I did it.


Sweet! Thanks for the ride report. Where'd you purchase the remote?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

First I tried Worldwide, but they had just run out, so ended up going with Universal. Had it in a few days. I think I got the last one they had unfortunately.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

If you really want it...Bike Components has them...but they are in Germany. Price with shipping is fairly close to what you'll pay domestically.

https://www.bike-components.de/en/R...rade-Kit-for-Reverb-Models-as-of-2013-p56259/

I'll just wait for World Wide to get them in. I can just drive down and pick it up.


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## Gray_Ghost (Feb 2, 2017)

LBS says Rockshox aren't rebuilding these and they have to send to a "vendor" to be rebuilt . Is there any other way as I have one in warranty that needs to be replaced and one out of warranty that I need to have rebuilt on my dime.


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## BPH (Feb 18, 2017)

First things first, many apologies for the unacceptable delay in replying in thanks to the people who commented in reply to my question. I'll take each one in turn after I have pasted my question again, for reference as it was months ago 



BPH said:


> Hey. Hoping for a little advice. I have read the whole thread and nothing matches my problem!
> 
> My standard reverb has had very little use, is 6 month old and performs perfectly, EXCEPT....
> 
> ...





foresterLV said:


> What happens if you adjust remote to a slowest setting? If its getting worse bleeding of the cable should help.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F


It had no effect on the problem, but thanks for your input :thumbsup:



Lone Rager said:


> It's possible to over-tighten the post clamp so it restricts movement of the post. Check the clamp torque. I believe the spec is 6.7 Nm (60 in-lb) max.


The seat post clamp was not over tightened - thank you for your input mate :thumbsup:



galicano said:


> it might be that you have an issue with the brass inserts since you wiggle your post before being able to put the post down. better make an appointment with a service or you can do it on your own with the right tools and instruction from sram via youtube.


I'll bear this in mind should a bleed not sort my issue - thank you :thumbsup:



seamarsh said:


> Did you find a solution?
> 
> I have the same issue, ill check the post collar to see if that helps.
> 
> new , 4 months old reverb 170mm


Not yet mate, buy I am yet to try anything! Did you have any success?

I am yet to try a bleed, I know it's the first thing to try. I do not have much faith, as the post works flawlessly except for the strange issue I am experiencing.

Thanks again for the replies and sorry it has taken me so long to thank and reply!


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

BPH said:


> I am yet to try a bleed, I know it's the first thing to try. I do not have much faith, as the post works flawlessly except for the strange issue I am experiencing.


My post behaves same way. It takes some extra force to compress it for first time. I did full service (because some o-ring failed and it did not operate anymore) and after service I got same behaviour. Not sure what causes this.


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## BPH (Feb 18, 2017)

arnea said:


> My post behaves same way. It takes some extra force to compress it for first time. I did full service (because some o-ring failed and it did not operate anymore) and after service I got same behaviour. Not sure what causes this.


So the issue you had (and I still have) still remained after a full service?

It must just be one of those things then. I semi hoped a bleed would sort this out, and it still might as I haven't bled it yet. I just don't hold much faith in a bleed solving the issue, as except for this isssue, the post performs flawlessly.

I'm going to start looking at alternative droppers - any recommendations for both high performance and low/easy maintenance?


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Yep, still there after full service. I think that the problem is that some seals or bushings are dry and cause extra friction.


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## BPH (Feb 18, 2017)

arnea said:


> Yep, still there after full service. I think that the problem is that some seals or bushings are dry and cause extra friction.


Are seals and bushings not replaced or lubricated when the post is being serviced?


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## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

They are. My thinking was that when the post is not used, the seals and bushings dry up or there is some other kind of stiction between stanchion and them. This is similar to forks - when not in use it takes some force to compress the fork, then it starts moving smoothly.


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## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

arnea said:


> My post behaves same way. It takes some extra force to compress it for first time. I did full service (because some o-ring failed and it did not operate anymore) and after service I got same behaviour. Not sure what causes this.


I'm exactly in the same boat. After starting to drop 1/2 to 1 inch had it serviced, new orings and plastic IFP, now it's hard to compress and it feels like there is no grease on those new seals. Compared to the KS Lev I have on the other bike this feels antique, guess next time it needs service will be when I look around for alternatives.


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## BPH (Feb 18, 2017)

I'm undecided whether to send the reverb back and look for alternatives, or just live with the problem. 

There doesn't seem to the "the one" to buy though.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

mevnet said:


> I'm exactly in the same boat. After starting to drop 1/2 to 1 inch had it serviced, new orings and plastic IFP, now it's hard to compress and it feels like there is no grease on those new seals. Compared to the KS Lev I have on the other bike this feels antique, guess next time it needs service will be when I look around for alternatives.


Problem isn't the post. It's the rebuild job. I rebuild them regularly and have never had this issue. I don't see the same post back for at least 18months after it has had a good life in tough conditions. I'm no expert either, just very careful when I assemble them. It is easy to slightly damage or pinch o'rings if your not careful. Post will work ok initially then deteriorate slowly as oil or air bypasses these damaged seals.

I've tried other posts and most of them these days have the same system of a gas strut like and office chair and a cable to operate the strut return lever. I'd stick with a known brand if you go this way like Fox transfer or similar. The main issue with these posts is that the gas struts aren't very strong as they need to be careful of the return speed. This means they are prone to seizing up once they ingest a bit of dirt which is inevitable with any type of dropper. Most are easy to disassemble and re-grease but can't comment on all of them. The known brands generally have better seal and bushing design.

Reverb is by far the best in my opinion as it has a strong air spring return and speed is limited by oil flow in a seperate circuit. Reliability has never been an issue for me and it definitely helps to learn how to rebuild them yourself. When mine wears out eventually I can just rebuild in my garage and be back on the trails the next day. I'd definitely recommend buying the tools and repairing yourself. Very satisfying too. Just my 2 cents worth as it bugs me when poor service makes a good product look bad.


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## BPH (Feb 18, 2017)

niva1989 said:


> Problem isn't the post. It's the rebuild job. I rebuild them regularly and have never had this issue. I don't see the same post back for at least 18months after it has had a good life in tough conditions. I'm no expert either, just very careful when I assemble them. It is easy to slightly damage or pinch o'rings if your not careful. Post will work ok initially then deteriorate slowly as oil or air bypasses these damaged seals.
> 
> I've tried other posts and most of them these days have the same system of a gas strut like and office chair and a cable to operate the strut return lever. I'd stick with a known brand if you go this way like Fox transfer or similar. The main issue with these posts is that the gas struts aren't very strong as they need to be careful of the return speed. This means they are prone to seizing up once they ingest a bit of dirt which is inevitable with any type of dropper. Most are easy to disassemble and re-grease but can't comment on all of them. The known brands generally have better seal and bushing design.
> 
> Reverb is by far the best in my opinion as it has a strong air spring return and speed is limited by oil flow in a seperate circuit. Reliability has never been an issue for me and it definitely helps to learn how to rebuild them yourself. When mine wears out eventually I can just rebuild in my garage and be back on the trails the next day. I'd definitely recommend buying the tools and repairing yourself. Very satisfying too. Just my 2 cents worth as it bugs me when poor service makes a good product look bad.


Very interesting. Thank you for your input, it's really appreciated.

I'm not mechanically minded in the slightest, I have damaged my arms and hands over the years so dexterity and patience aren't my strong points!

I wouldn't attempt a rebuild. I've looked online and it's out of my league. You sound like you know what you're doing, and also sound like you take on work. Would you send me a message if that's correct?

Thanks again for your reply.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

BPH said:


> Very interesting. Thank you for your input, it's really appreciated.
> 
> I'm not mechanically minded in the slightest, I have damaged my arms and hands over the years so dexterity and patience aren't my strong points!
> 
> ...


If you can't rebuild yourself then try and find someone that repairs them regularly. There are a couple of tricks to assembling them without damaging the o'rings and seals. I work with hydraulics so this is pretty easy compared to what I do for work so I had a head start. I am in Sydney Australia so would be cheaper for you to buy a new post than to send to me. There are many people like me around you just need to find them. There are also many good local bike shops. These are also pretty hard to find. 
I got messed around by my local bike shops so thought I would start repairing things myself. I then moved on to rebuilding suspension and dropper posts for my riding buddies. It actually isn't rocket science but can be fiddly. You need to spend the money and buy the right tools to make sure you don't damage anything in the process. Rockshox are by far the best when it comes to service info and parts availability to the average person that chooses to learn how to repair their own bike. This makes them number one in my eyes and much more professional than other brands. 
I read these forums and am so disappointed to hear about the many poor quality rebuilds that people have trusted "professionals" to do. 
I'm happy to help you out the best I can through this forum. You can pm me if you like but there may be something for everyone to learn from your questions.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

BPH said:


> So the issue you had (and I still have) still remained after a full service?
> 
> It must just be one of those things then. I semi hoped a bleed would sort this out, and it still might as I haven't bled it yet. I just don't hold much faith in a bleed solving the issue, as except for this isssue, the post performs flawlessly.
> 
> I'm going to start looking at alternative droppers - any recommendations for both high performance and low/easy maintenance?


It seems weird that you can leave it for half an hour and problem comes back. Doesn't sound like dry bushings or seals then. I'd say there is an issue in the lever circuit. Bleed the lever a couple of times then try again. I never rush the bleed. You need to be very sure you have got all the air out.


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## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

niva1989 said:


> It seems weird that you can leave it for half an hour and problem comes back. Doesn't sound like dry bushings or seals then. I'd say there is an issue in the lever circuit. Bleed the lever a couple of times then try again. I never rush the bleed. You need to be very sure you have got all the air out.


Thanks for the encouragement! I do all my suspension maintenance but I needed the bike for a race so no time for me to fiddle with the dropper this time, it is new to me. Aside from the soft jaws / vise blocks what other tools do you recommend that are absolutely needed? 
- The IFP goes down 30mm for the Stealth version so no need for a IFP height stool (or you can make your own easily)
- Fluid level gauge - assume is needed and seems to be critical (+ or -0.5mm)
- Bleed tool - Have the two syringes kit/ bleed kit but that is mostly for the remote bleeding correct? 
- Seal head coming undone - seems to be a common issue with these, any suggestions on how to get it to stay in place?
- the white thread locker they show in the video is that Locktite like or just plumber's tape? Looks like it but I assume it does not need to be reapplied
BTW the SRAM video I plan to use for STEALTH is this, I have the A2 version - 




Any tips and tricks you can share? Thanks and cheers from Canada


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

mevnet said:


> Thanks for the encouragement! I do all my suspension maintenance but I needed the bike for a race so no time for me to fiddle with the dropper this time, it is new to me. Aside from the soft jaws / vise blocks what other tools do you recommend that are absolutely needed?
> - The IFP goes down 30mm for the Stealth version so no need for a IFP height stool (or you can make your own easily)
> - Fluid level gauge - assume is needed and seems to be critical (+ or -0.5mm)
> - Bleed tool - Have the two syringes kit/ bleed kit but that is mostly for the remote bleeding correct?
> ...


First thing to do is forget YouTube as your primary guide and download the manual. I recommend using YouTube as a backup to the PDF manual. The manual is regularly updated unlike the YouTube videos. All of the tools listed in the manual are needed to avoid damaging your post or seals. Crows foot spanners are another must as they allow you to use a torque wrench on everything. This is especially important for the main sealhead which is easily rounded off when torquing to spec. You could make your own ifp height tool but I don't think it is worth the trouble. The RS tools really aren't that expensive and they save you time. The brass shaft clamps are a must. Fluid level gauge is needed. I found one on eBay as it isn't a RS tool. I also use Park Tool vice soft jaws. They have multiple diameter cutouts but lack surface area for the smaller shafts. I use these for clamping the larger diameter parts. Last tool advice is to use a torque wrench for everything.

The trick for the sealhead is to not pinch the o'ring in the threads of the sealhead. This is the most common cause of the sealhead coming loose. It torques up ok but can slow leak past the pinched o'ring. The pieces of rubber also don't allow the thread to lock. There are 3 things I do to avoid this happening. One is to wipe the seal area dry just before the o'ring starts to engage (this is written in the manual). This reduces the chance of the o'ring popping out while tightening those last few turns. The excess oil pushes the o'ring out as the oil is compressed. As the sealhead screws in the oil in the ifp chamber is compressed and tries to escape which can pop out the o'ring. Another trick is to unscrew the Schrader valve core which allows the ifp piston to creep slightly which allows space in the oil chamber for the sealhead volume. The third trick is to use a dry thread locking compound. You can buy most variants of Loctite in a dry stick form that you wind the base to extend like a glue stick. I haven't had a sealhead come loose or pinched an o'ring since doing these things.

Hope this helps


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## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

niva1989 said:


> When mine wears out eventually I can just rebuild in my garage and be back on the trails the next day. I'd definitely recommend buying the tools and repairing yourself. Very satisfying too. Just my 2 cents worth as it bugs me when poor service makes a good product look bad.


How long does it take you? I work on my suspension forks and brakes so am no stranger to hydraulic systems. Never worked on a dropper post.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Doug said:


> How long does it take you? I work on my suspension forks and brakes so am no stranger to hydraulic systems. Never worked on a dropper post.


Roughly 2hrs including removing and refitting to bike. So I wouldn't make any money doing it for a living😁


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

niva1989 said:


> Roughly 2hrs including removing and refitting to bike. So I wouldn't make any money doing it for a living


what torque wrench and crowfoot do you recommend mate?


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## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Appreciated, thanks!



niva1989 said:


> First thing to do is forget YouTube as your primary guide and download the manual. I recommend using YouTube as a backup to the PDF manual. The manual is regularly updated unlike the YouTube videos. All of the tools listed in the manual are needed to avoid damaging your post or seals. Crows foot spanners are another must as they allow you to use a torque wrench on everything. This is especially important for the main sealhead which is easily rounded off when torquing to spec. You could make your own ifp height tool but I don't think it is worth the trouble. The RS tools really aren't that expensive and they save you time. The brass shaft clamps are a must. Fluid level gauge is needed. I found one on eBay as it isn't a RS tool. I also use Park Tool vice soft jaws. They have multiple diameter cutouts but lack surface area for the smaller shafts. I use these for clamping the larger diameter parts. Last tool advice is to use a torque wrench for everything.
> I haven't had a sealhead come loose or pinched an o'ring since doing these things.
> 
> Hope this helps


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

spyghost said:


> what torque wrench and crowfoot do you recommend mate?


I have 2 Park Tool ones (TW1 & TW2) I use for all things bike related. Small one is 0-7Nm and the large one is 0-70Nm.

I have a set of SnapOn crow foots. Not cheap but best quality. Many other brands have them. See service manual for a full list of tools needed.

A1-A2 latest manual
https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...000000004211_rev_e_2014_reverb_stealth_sm.pdf

B2 latest manual
https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...b_stealth_b1_service_manual_rev_c_english.pdf


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

niva1989 said:


> I have 2 Park Tool ones (TW1 & TW2) I use for all things bike related. Small one is 0-7Nm and the large one is 0-70Nm.
> 
> I have a set of SnapOn crow foots. Not cheap but best quality. Many other brands have them. See service manual for a full list of tools needed.
> 
> ...


I'm gathering up the necessary tools for rebuild as I'm nearing mine. I'm experiencing a negligible squishy feel already. By negligible I mean not felt when riding but when pushed by hand when doing maintenance work at home.

What pick do you use for the rings?

It seems that the 3pc set of parktool pick will scratch as they are high carbon as specified in the site: http://www.jensonusa.com/Park-Tool-Utility-Pick-Set


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

spyghost said:


> I'm gathering up the necessary tools for rebuild as I'm nearing mine. I'm experiencing a negligible squishy feel already. By negligible I mean not felt when riding but when pushed by hand when doing maintenance work at home.
> 
> What pick do you use for the rings?
> 
> It seems that the 3pc set of parktool pick will scratch as they are high carbon as specified in the site: Park Tool Utility Pick Set > Accessories > Tools & Maintenance > Screwdrivers | Jenson USA


I have a set of steel snap-on picks. I've never scratched with them yet but I've been picking o'rings out of difficult spots for many years. If your careful you don't need to worry. If you haven't used seal picks before then I think you might be able to get plastic ones. I've seen plastic ones in some videos. Not sure how rigid they would be for some of the small lip seals.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Yeah. I stab the o-ring not going through it to get it out. You need to exercise care doing this. I also have a plastic tool with a very small thin blade that's intended to be used for tuning variable inductors in radios. This works well too with no chance of scratching the parts.


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## idividebyzero (Sep 25, 2014)

anyone take a Reverb into a LBS to get rebuilt? How much did it cost?

My Reverb has a huge amount of sag thanks to being picked up by the saddle and the rebuild procedure is one of the biggest cluster****s Ive ever seen in my life. I'd rather rebuild every piece of my bike than do a Reverb service. How much the LBS charges will depend on if I get a Fox Transfer or not.


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## Uly (Aug 18, 2009)

idividebyzero said:


> anyone take a Reverb into a LBS to get rebuilt? How much did it cost?
> 
> My Reverb has a huge amount of sag thanks to being picked up by the saddle and the rebuild procedure is one of the biggest cluster****s Ive ever seen in my life. I'd rather rebuild every piece of my bike than do a Reverb service. How much the LBS charges will depend on if I get a Fox Transfer or not.


$155.00 parts and labor at BikeBling.


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## rentalrider (Apr 23, 2016)

When I had mine serviced (less than a yr old) I took it to reputable bike shop. They had for two weeks and since they couldn't get the tool necessary to rebuild they complained to RS and were sent a new dropper (new style). Worked for me!


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## Gray_Ghost (Feb 2, 2017)

idividebyzero said:


> anyone take a Reverb into a LBS to get rebuilt? How much did it cost?
> 
> My Reverb has a huge amount of sag thanks to being picked up by the saddle and the rebuild procedure is one of the biggest cluster****s Ive ever seen in my life. I'd rather rebuild every piece of my bike than do a Reverb service. How much the LBS charges will depend on if I get a Fox Transfer or not.


I just paid $176.00 at my LBS here in MS for rebuild and shipping, not sure if that is a competitive price or not.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

idividebyzero said:


> anyone take a Reverb into a LBS to get rebuilt? How much did it cost?
> 
> My Reverb has a huge amount of sag thanks to being picked up by the saddle and the rebuild procedure is one of the biggest cluster****s Ive ever seen in my life. I'd rather rebuild every piece of my bike than do a Reverb service. How much the LBS charges will depend on if I get a Fox Transfer or not.


Have you tried rebuilding yourself. It's no harder then rebuilding suspension. Rockshox make it easier than others by making all of the special tools and parts available to the any average person. They don't treat us all like incompetent fools like other brands do.

I think a full step by step colour manual that is regularly updated is as good as it gets. Sure they have had some minor design flaws but what brand doesn't. I also have a Lyrik, Pike, Vivid Air, debonair and Avid brakes. They all come with the confidence of good product support to all the home mechanics out there.

A good local bike shop should know how to rebuild these posts blindfolded by now. There are great shops out there that provide great service and know their stuff but the majority just send your fork, shock or post off for someone else to rebuild and you end up with a higher repair cost and a longer turn around time plus judging by this forum, a poor quality rebuild job. This sounds more like a cluster ...k to me.


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

idividebyzero said:


> anyone take a Reverb into a LBS to get rebuilt? How much did it cost?
> 
> My Reverb has a huge amount of sag thanks to being picked up by the saddle and the rebuild procedure is one of the biggest cluster****s Ive ever seen in my life. I'd rather rebuild every piece of my bike than do a Reverb service. How much the LBS charges will depend on if I get a Fox Transfer or not.


If you're happy servicing forks, and doing general bike maintenance you can do a Reverb overhaul. All you need are the kit, some basic tools, a bench vice, and some attention to detail. 
A mate, whose forks I normally service, did a full overhaul on his 4yr old Reverb last week and it came up fine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

anybody experiencing this in the clamps of the reverb?

https://s264.photobucket.com/user/s...5545F1-5C68-48AA-84AE-4FD0C0B6D7B3_1.mp4.html


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

spyghost said:


> anybody experiencing this in the clamps of the reverb?
> 
> CB5545F1-5C68-48AA-84AE-4FD0C0B6D7B3_1.mp4 Video by spyghost | Photobucket


Sorry but can't tell what's happening with the camera shake. Is your seat moving back and fourth or up and down?

I've seen neither happen anyway.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

spyghost said:


> anybody experiencing this in the clamps of the reverb?
> 
> CB5545F1-5C68-48AA-84AE-4FD0C0B6D7B3_1.mp4 Video by spyghost | Photobucket


The creaking? Try removing the saddle, cleaning the saddle rails and the clamps and then re-install torquing everything to manufacturers recommended torque settings.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Rick Draper said:


> The creaking? Try removing the saddle, cleaning the saddle rails and the clamps and then re-install torquing everything to manufacturers recommended torque settings.


Haha. I didn't have the sound turned up when i watched the video. Spyghost I agree with Rick. I've had that happen before and the clamp was loose. I'd be surprised if a clean and re-torque doesn't sort it.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Had mine rebuilt by a local shop 2 weeks ago. Now it Doesn't come up and it's dumping oil or the bottom. Yes yes. Next time I'll do it myself. Was just trying to go the next route. 

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Rick Draper said:


> The creaking? Try removing the saddle, cleaning the saddle rails and the clamps and then re-install torquing everything to manufacturers recommended torque settings.





niva1989 said:


> Haha. I didn't have the sound turned up when i watched the video. Spyghost I agree with Rick. I've had that happen before and the clamp was loose. I'd be surprised if a clean and re-torque doesn't sort it.


Cheers guys, I re-read the manual and torque should be 10Nm! [email protected] I was torquing to just 4Nm (seat clamp in mind)

Hopefully this fixes the creak (really annoying AF)


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Psycho1 said:


> Had mine rebuilt by a local shop 2 weeks ago. Now it Doesn't come up and it's dumping oil or the bottom. Yes yes. Next time I'll do it myself. Was just trying to go the next route.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


More proof shops are loosing their basic skills. Should be child's play for a serious shop. If they want to combat online shopping then they need to start by picking up their service game.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

How does the speed adjust work in the new 1x lever?

CMIIW, the way I see it, it simply compresses the fluid more when turned in (clockwise) - is this correct?










(Image taken from: Singletrack Magazine | First Ride Review: RockShox Reverb 1X Remote)


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

spyghost said:


> ... it simply compresses the fluid more when turned in (clockwise) - is this correct?...[/IMG]
> 
> Technically, it displaces fluid as it's screwed in, which is the same thing the speed adjuster does on the plunger remotes. Screwing it in allows the lever to open the valve in the post sooner and further. It can also compensate for a little air in the remote system if the bleed isn't perfect.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Lone Rager said:


> spyghost said:
> 
> 
> > ... it simply compresses the fluid more when turned in (clockwise) - is this correct?...[/IMG]
> ...


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

tried all that...

still creaked

I ride with my seat forward to help climbing...

I reversed the lower saddle rail clamp so more of it was in contact with the rails....

Viola no more creaks


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

jeffscott said:


> tried all that...
> 
> still creaked
> 
> ...


mine as well in spite of being clean and proper torque. haven't reversed anything yet. what's your saddle?


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

OK, I remember myself saying it's not easy to bleed with the bleeding edge - I take that away.

At each press I do the post returns slower than the previous. As I have observed, I'm leaking at the circled portion. I'm very sure that I've threaded the barb correctly and that it's flushed. I've redone it 3x to be sure and still the same, each time cutting to get a fresh end. Now I'm running out of excess so i stopped for now. It's also worth mentioning that the hose has seated fully in all 3 cases. I've measured the depth and it's ~10mm






A few things I'm seeing here:
- hose has expanded? - when i thread the barb it's way too easy compared to the push remote
- new barb is thinner? - see above
- barb/o-ring inside the remote is lose - I held back from opening the end, but I'm already tempted to.

To elaborate a bit on the expanded hose or thinner barb, If you guys worked on previous versions, you feel a tight engagement while turning and requires a bit of effort to overcome the resistance. Consequently, the feeling of reaching the bottom is very obvious. All these are gone in the new remote.

What I'm curious is whether this has an o-ring? IMO, it should, otherwise how will it seal. I tried to turn the hex cover (whatever its called), but it's way too tight, so I held back and didn't bother. The way I see it, the barb itself isn't threaded to the main body (unlike the previous one). It seems to be pressed by the cap that goes with it. This leaves a huge room for error in terms of sealing IMO. Unfortunately, the parts catalog does not include this yet, so I can't confirm the internals.










pity i'm overseas and i got my item from the other side of the globe...


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

WRONG>>>>I put mine together, it worked, and I don't remember the details at this point. As I recall, you screw the barb into the hose using a small torx until the flange is flush against the end of the hose and then the red olive threads onto the flanged end of the barb with left hand thread, right?

I believe the seal is created by the olive compressing against a conical bore in the lever and squeezing down on the hose, as it is with brake levers.<<<WRONG


Edit: Hey. Never mind. I was confusing installing the 1x remote with installing new SRAM Level brakes, which do have a new barb and left-hand threaded olives. The 1X remote just threads onto the hose, kinda like the old plunger remotes.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Lone Rager said:


> I put mine together, it worked, and I don't remember the details at this point. As I recall, you screw the barb into the hose using a small torx until the flange is flush against the end of the hose and then the red olive threads onto the flanged end of the barb with left hand thread, right?
> 
> I believe the seal is created by the olive compressing against a conical bore in the lever and squeezing down on the hose, as it is with brake levers.


this is the instructional vid i followed. the process of threading the hose is at 1:30. there's no mention of torx or olive anywhere


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

spyghost said:


> this is the instructional vid i followed. the process of threading the hose is at 1:30. there's no mention of torx or olive anywhere


I'd stay clear of the YouTube videos if you can. They often leave out critical info that is in the service manual. They should only be used to supplement the manual. I haven't fitted one of these yet but it looks like you are doing everything right. Are you using SRAM original hose? I always use a torque wrench on the barbs and they do feel tight. I can't see an olive used like the brakes, only a barb and the new style compression nut. Manual is here and the pages you need are 39-40:

https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...b_stealth_b1_service_manual_rev_c_english.pdf


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

niva1989 said:


> I'd stay clear of the YouTube videos if you can. They often leave out critical info that is in the service manual. They should only be used to supplement the manual. I haven't fitted one of these yet but it looks like you are doing everything right. Are you using SRAM original hose? I always use a torque wrench on the barbs and they do feel tight. I can't see an olive used like the brakes, only a barb and the new style compression nut. Manual is here and the pages you need are 39-40:
> 
> https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...b_stealth_b1_service_manual_rev_c_english.pdf


Thanks for the reference.

Yes, I'm just re-using my original hose with a freshly cut end. The barb must have turned while I was installing or come loose for that action.

Hmmm... my kit didn't come with a new barb nor with a new hose!


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

spyghost said:


> Thanks for the reference.
> 
> Yes, I'm just re-using my hose with a freshly cut end. The barb must have turned while I was installing or come loose for that action.
> 
> Hmmm... my kit didn't come with a new barb!


It looks like a different style barb from the old one.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

niva1989 said:


> It looks like a different style barb from the old one.


yea, looks more like that of a brake except that it's black and has threads...


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Hey. Never mind on my post about a barb and threaded olive. I was confusing installing the 1x remote with installing new SRAM Level brakes, which do have a new barb and left-hand threaded olives.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

i did further troubleshooting and it seems that I haven't fully seated the hose!

i tried to turn the lever and surprisingly i was able to twist it further by a bit more than a full turn.

It must be my grip slipping before giving me the feeling that I've fully seated the hose.

Been working fine in the garage. Further testing on the weekend... now I'm stoked!

Given this experience, RS should align the youtube video according to the PDF instructions. Perhaps even ensure that the upgrade kit has the barb uninstalled. Threading it using a T6 is quite foolproof in that users get a visual whether it has fully seated or not.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

spyghost said:


> i did further troubleshooting and it seems that I haven't fully seated the hose!
> 
> i tried to turn the lever and surprisingly i was able to twist it further by a bit more than a full turn.
> 
> ...


That's good news.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

spyghost said:


> mine as well in spite of being clean and proper torque. haven't reversed anything yet. what's your saddle?


Henke specialized


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## dba4life (Aug 26, 2011)

For those who have installed the new 1x lever on an existing reverb did you need to go through the full bleed procedure as on the SRAM video?

This site says to install it with just putting the bleeding edge tool on the lever side and fill it with fluid from there....has anyone had luck doing it this way? Thx

How to mount the new RockShox Reverb 1X Remote lever | ENDURO Mountainbike Magazine


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

dba4life said:


> For those who have installed the new 1x lever on an existing reverb did you need to go through the full bleed procedure as on the SRAM video?
> 
> This site says to install it with just putting the bleeding edge tool on the lever side and fill it with fluid from there....has anyone had luck doing it this way? Thx
> 
> How to mount the new RockShox Reverb 1X Remote lever | ENDURO Mountainbike Magazine


i bled the entire system.

OT: interesting name, are you really a DBA? ie database admin


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## idividebyzero (Sep 25, 2014)

I might decide to try and rebuild the reverb with the basic service kit to fix the sag. Is it 100% required to bleed the remote or can I avoid that if Im careful not to let much fluid leak out of the hose? I have an A2. Its just a stupid on/off remote, I cant imagine it being very sensitive to air in the system.

If I have to then is the connection for the bleed the same as old Avid brakes? I have that kit, it was used for DOT fluid but Ive thoroughly cleaned it with alcohol and use them for mineral oil now. I know the dangers of mixing DOT fluid with mineral oil systems but I dont care, I hate this piece of garbage and I will not be buying a Reverb bleed kit.

If I cant get this thing working for less than 20 bucks then its going in the trash.


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## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

spyghost said:


> i bled the entire system.


Same here.


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## dba4life (Aug 26, 2011)

spyghost said:


> i bled the entire system.
> 
> OT: interesting name, are you really a DBA? ie database admin


Well I tried the method of just filling fluid from the 1x lever side and did a really poor job of it...forgot to put the lever cover over the hose before screwing it on to the barb so had to do it 2x times, then noticed that I disconnected the original plunger remote with the seatpost down (not sure if that matters, but I assume it should). But somehow it all worked A-OK after doing the 1x lever bleed technique in the SRAM video about creating a vacuum, then slowly depressing the lever, removing vacuum then releasing the lever with some pressure on the syringe until you don't see any more air bubbles. When set to the fastest setting the seatpost rockets up. I had to turn it to close to the slowest setting and it is still "fast". So I would give this method a shot first when installing.

And regarding the "DBA4Life" about 20 years ago I was a DBA (Informix) and that was an email address I created when looking for a new job as something like that was "cool" at the time.....20 years later the name just stuck. I moved on to more general IT management many many years ago.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

dba4life said:


> ...I disconnected the original plunger remote with the seatpost down (not sure if that matters, but I assume it should). ...


It doesn't. The fluid in the remote only operates a valve in the seatpost, just like the cable in cable operated hydraulic posts. The remote fluid doesn't touch or mix with the post fluid.


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## Twowheelssoar (Jul 26, 2005)

Hoping I can get some advice before I tear my Reverb apart again. I have a non-stealth A2 that lost pressure and wouldn't hold air. I ordered the basic rebuild kit (o-rings and bushing) and IFP bleed tool, took the whole post apart, replaced the o-rings, (I think) bled the IFP, and put the whole thing back together. I then bled the remote, which I think was successful (no air bubbles, good pressure on the remote lever, have bled Avid brakes before), but the post is stuck up. The post holds air, letting the air doesn't help the post drop down. Do I need to rebleed the IFP? If so, any tips???


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

The air doesn't hold the post up so letting it out won't allow the post to drop. The fluid in the IFP tube is what holds the seat up. If the remote is not actuating the valve in the post, it won't drop or go back up when dropped.


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## Twowheelssoar (Jul 26, 2005)

Lone Rager said:


> The air doesn't hold the post up so letting it out won't allow the post to drop. The fluid in the IFP tube is what holds the seat up. If the remote is not actuating the valve in the post, it won't drop or go back up when dropped.


Makes sense. The air is for the return, right? So, if the post is staying up, is it safe to assume that it is an issue with the remote, or is it possible that I have overfilled or improperly bled the IFP?


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## DaveX (Feb 10, 2004)

Anyone ever have an issue with not weighing enough to easily lower your post? My wife keeps complaining that she has to kind of bounce or try to get extra weight on the reverb to get it to lower. She's around 125lbs without riding gear. When I try riding her bike it lowers just fine and feels exactly like the reverb on my bike. Is there a way to adjust the threshold of what it takes to lower the post?


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

DaveX said:


> Anyone ever have an issue with not weighing enough to easily lower your post? My wife keeps complaining that she has to kind of bounce or try to get extra weight on the reverb to get it to lower. She's around 125lbs without riding gear. When I try riding her bike it lowers just fine and feels exactly like the reverb on my bike. Is there a way to adjust the threshold of what it takes to lower the post?


The quicker the return of the post, the easier for itto drop as well - so turn the knob or the screw to faster


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## DaveX (Feb 10, 2004)

spyghost said:


> The quicker the return of the post, the easier for itto drop as well - so turn the knob or the screw to faster


Unfortunately I've already tried that with no luck.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

DaveX said:


> Unfortunately I've already tried that with no luck.


how old is the post from last rebuild?

might also be seat clamp too tight?


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## DaveX (Feb 10, 2004)

spyghost said:


> how old is the post from last rebuild?
> 
> might also be seat clamp too tight?


The post has never been rebuilt. I think my wife has around 30 rides max on it, rarely if ever dropping it on those rides. Good call on the seat lamp, I'll check it. There really doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it when I try it, drops just fine. I may have her try mine to see if it drops under her weight.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

DaveX said:


> The post has never been rebuilt. I think my wife has around 30 rides max on it, rarely if ever dropping it on those rides. Good call on the seat lamp, I'll check it. There really doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it when I try it, drops just fine. I may have her try mine to see if it drops under her weight.


or could be just her 

when i started with a dropper i found it odd and extra effort, but turned out to be natural later on


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Twowheelssoar said:


> Hoping I can get some advice before I tear my Reverb apart again. I have a non-stealth A2 that lost pressure and wouldn't hold air. I ordered the basic rebuild kit (o-rings and bushing) and IFP bleed tool, took the whole post apart, replaced the o-rings, (I think) bled the IFP, and put the whole thing back together. I then bled the remote, which I think was successful (no air bubbles, good pressure on the remote lever, have bled Avid brakes before), but the post is stuck up. The post holds air, letting the air doesn't help the post drop down. Do I need to rebleed the IFP? If so, any tips???


Sounds like you need to bleed the remote again. I have a non stealth too. Stealth or not it can take a couple of bleeds sometimes. You should be able hear or feel the poppet valve in the top of the post clicking as the remote is pushed. Letting some air out will make the post easier to drop but only if the remote circuit is working. It may not return very well though. The remote fluid pushes on the poppet valve piston and makes it move to allow the ifp piston to travel in the post. Sounds like you got the rest of the build done ok if it is holding air and locking solid in the up position. Bleed again making sure the bleed port on the post is lower than the remote and the speed adjuster is wound to full slow. It can seem like all the air is out as you don't see any bubbles in the syringes but you may be pushing a big bubble of air back and forth in the hose. Make sure you create a vacuum with one syringe and push quickly with the other to dislodge any bubbles in the system. A test of a good bleed is the remote plunger fully returning on its own. If you have to pull it out to full extension you have air in the system.


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## quagmireDan (Aug 4, 2016)

My dropper post is moving left to right when looking down at the top of the seat. It is probably moving 5-10 degrees both left and right. The top piece of the upper post is rotating not the long main piece of the top post, not sure what its called (seam where the post is rotating shown below). I watched the sram service video on youtube but they never touch the seat clamp portion.

Is there any easy fix? Do I need an entire new top tube?


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## seamarsh (Mar 5, 2012)

DaveX said:


> Anyone ever have an issue with not weighing enough to easily lower your post? My wife keeps complaining that she has to kind of bounce or try to get extra weight on the reverb to get it to lower. She's around 125lbs without riding gear. When I try riding her bike it lowers just fine and feels exactly like the reverb on my bike. Is there a way to adjust the threshold of what it takes to lower the post?


Same thing on my post, been that way since day one, really annoying and still have not found a solution.

Tried bleed, seat post clamp and regressing seal.

Let me know if you find a solution. Feel like dry seal stiction somewhere, maybe a bushing


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

quagmireDan said:


> My dropper post is moving left to right when looking down at the top of the seat. It is probably moving 5-10 degrees both left and right. The top piece of the upper post is rotating not the long main piece of the top post, not sure what its called (seam where the post is rotating shown below). I watched the sram service video on youtube but they never touch the seat clamp portion.
> 
> Is there any easy fix? Do I need an entire new top tube?
> 
> View attachment 1152990


I'd say you will need a new top tube. That joint is not one that should seperate easily. I've never seen one loose before. It will also mean that the joint will not be sealed anymore too.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

quagmireDan said:


> My dropper post is moving left to right when looking down at the top of the seat. It is probably moving 5-10 degrees both left and right. The top piece of the upper post is rotating not the long main piece of the top post, not sure what its called (seam where the post is rotating shown below). I watched the sram service video on youtube but they never touch the seat clamp portion.
> 
> Is there any easy fix? Do I need an entire new top tube?
> 
> View attachment 1152990


You need to strip the post down, undo the head off the stanchion, clean it throughly to ensure its clean of oil and grease then re-install the top cap using read loctite on the threads.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Rick Draper said:


> You need to strip the post down, undo the head off the stanchion, clean it throughly to ensure its clean of oil and grease then re-install the top cap using read loctite on the threads.


Must normally be very tight. I've hung off that main seal head to get it undone but have never had one of those top sections come loose. I assumed it was a heavy press fit. Thanks for the info Rick.


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## Scott2MTB (Feb 2, 2015)

I have an issue I don't see an immediate answer for...

I installed the 1x remote on a pretty new Reverb Stealth which came with a new NS Snabb Plus which II purchased a couple months ago. I followed the RS/SRAM video and everything seemed to work fine. During the first ride though, it started to get slower and slower (to raise and lower) - even after I increased the speed to max. When I got home, I rebled the dropper and it returned to normal operation and after a few minutes riding around in the street started getting slower. I repeated the cycle 2 more times (thinking I must be doing something wrong with the bleed) and each time the dropper stopped working correctly a little sooner.

Does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong? I checked the air when I installed the lever and it was fine so I assume no leak - though I don't think that would have anything to do with this issue. I also don't see any leaking fluid, though I guess it's possible there's some in the frame?


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Scott2MTB said:


> I have an issue I don't see an immediate answer for...
> 
> I installed the 1x remote on a pretty new Reverb Stealth which came with a new NS Snabb Plus which II purchased a couple months ago. I followed the RS/SRAM video and everything seemed to work fine. During the first ride though, it started to get slower and slower (to raise and lower) - even after I increased the speed to max. When I got home, I rebled the dropper and it returned to normal operation and after a few minutes riding around in the street started getting slower. I repeated the cycle 2 more times (thinking I must be doing something wrong with the bleed) and each time the dropper stopped working correctly a little sooner.
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong? I checked the air when I installed the lever and it was fine so I assume no leak - though I don't think that would have anything to do with this issue. I also don't see any leaking fluid, though I guess it's possible there's some in the frame?


Check your hose connection for leaks/bubbles. If that is the case, either you might not have fully threaded the hose or overtightened. In my case below, not fully threaded.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Scott2MTB said:


> I have an issue I don't see an immediate answer for...
> 
> I installed the 1x remote on a pretty new Reverb Stealth which came with a new NS Snabb Plus which II purchased a couple months ago. I followed the RS/SRAM video and everything seemed to work fine. During the first ride though, it started to get slower and slower (to raise and lower) - even after I increased the speed to max. When I got home, I rebled the dropper and it returned to normal operation and after a few minutes riding around in the street started getting slower. I repeated the cycle 2 more times (thinking I must be doing something wrong with the bleed) and each time the dropper stopped working correctly a little sooner.
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong? I checked the air when I installed the lever and it was fine so I assume no leak - though I don't think that would have anything to do with this issue. I also don't see any leaking fluid, though I guess it's possible there's some in the frame?


Your def loosing fluid out of the lever circuit somewhere. Check for leaks at the lever and at the seatpost barb. Most likely you will finds leak at the seatpost end as you mentioned that you can't see any oil leaking from the lever.


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## Scott2MTB (Feb 2, 2015)

spyghost said:


> Check your hose connection for leaks/bubbles. If that is kthe case, either you might not have fully threaded the hose or overtightened. In my case below, not fully threaded.


Interesting. That seems very obvious. I'll check and see if I seated the barb all the way, but I would think that I would have noticed something like that.



niva1989 said:


> Your def loosing fluid out of the lever circuit somewhere. Check for leaks at the lever and at the seatpost barb. Most likely you will finds leak at the seatpost end as you mentioned that you can't see any oil leaking from the lever.


So basically, either way it's probably a fluid leak. I was afraid that might be it and I'm worried that it will end up being the hose somewhere in the frame - which looks to be a real pain to route. I'm travelling today so I won't be able to check until tomorrow but I'll report back once I get a minute to look at it.

Thanks for the replies!


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Scott2MTB said:


> Interesting. That seems very obvious. I'll check and see if I seated the barb all the way, but I would think that I would have noticed something like that.
> 
> So basically, either way it's probably a fluid leak. I was afraid that might be it and I'm worried that it will end up being the hose somewhere in the frame - which looks to be a real pain to route. I'm travelling today so I won't be able to check until tomorrow but I'll report back once I get a minute to look at it.
> 
> Thanks for the replies!


Should be easy to check barb at the base of the seatpost. Just remove the lever from your handlebars and feed excess cable through to allow you to slide seatpost up and out of the frame to expose the barb.


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## bvader (Sep 13, 2009)

I had / reverb stealth V B1 had a lot of issues, I have friends that have never had issues. Have any of you tried something like this to just get rid of the hydraulic remote? https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/rockshox-reverb-b1-dehy-kit.html

I was seriously considering but ended up buying the whole BikeYoke revive but I still have my stealth thinking of converting for back up or sale...


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

I'm not a fan of the hydro remote, and hated the ergos of the plunger type, but I don't think it's a typical source of trouble with the Reverb. Because of the ergos I considered the dehy but got the 1x remote instead. It's still heavy and without any real befit over a good cable remote.


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## Scott2MTB (Feb 2, 2015)

spyghost said:


> Check your hose connection for leaks/bubbles. If that is the case, either you might not have fully threaded the hose or overtightened. In my case below, not fully threaded.


Your video was a good lead, but it turned out to be leaking around the speed adjustment screw in the lever itself. I saw the same bubbling effect there. I put the old plunger back on and it's working well now, though it's not positioned well in relation to the new Hope Tech3 E4 setup - which was the reason for the 1x lever in the first place.

I agree with @Lone Ranger - I'm not a fan of the hydraulic remote.


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## marcw (Apr 20, 2012)

My external reverb failed to hold pressure a few months ago. Today I started to check it out and took it apart to see if a rebuild kit can fix it. I do not think a rebuild kit will work. It looks like the "slick" coating on the seals are pealing off. Any Idea how to fix?

Check out the attached pictures


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

marcw said:


> My external reverb failed to hold pressure a few months ago. Today I started to check it out and took it apart to see if a rebuild kit can fix it. I do not think a rebuild kit will work. It looks like the "slick" coating on the seals are pealing off. Any Idea how to fix?
> 
> Check out the attached pictures
> View attachment 1156001
> View attachment 1156000


 You can buy a complete seal head assembly. Oh it also looks like you need the top cap assembly.


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## marcw (Apr 20, 2012)

gocat said:


> You can buy a complete seal head assembly. Oh it also looks like you need the top cap assembly.


Thanks, found the parts I need. I do not think it is worth fixing. I rather try a different manufacturer. Maybe less issues.

Anyone need spare parts.


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

It is a pain to do. But at least it's rebuildable. I had a used reverb for 1 1/2 years till I need to rebuild it. Work well. I switched to a fox transfer. Working good for 9 months. But not rebuildable. Well at least nothing I've heard at this time.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

marcw said:


> Thanks, found the parts I need. I do not think it is worth fixing. I rather try a different manufacturer. Maybe less issues.
> 
> Anyone need spare parts.


Rebuilt properly these posts don't give issues. These are much more solid than the cheap gas strut ones that jam up at the sightest build up of dust.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Lone Rager said:


> I'm not a fan of the hydro remote, and hated the ergos of the plunger type, but I don't think it's a typical source of trouble with the Reverb. Because of the ergos I considered the dehy but got the 1x remote instead. It's still heavy and without any real befit over a good cable remote.


Lone Ranger,
I wish that we'd been ready in time to help you, but for anyone else is looking for an under-bar non-hydraulic Reverb setup, we at Wolf Tooth launched our Sustain kit today. 







The kit consists of a Sustain mechanical actuator for Reverb Stealth A2 or B1 posts, the Wolf Tooth ReMote (bar clamp, I-Spec A/B, I-Spec II, or MatchMaker X), cable, and housing for $89-99 depending on options.

If anyone has any questions (hows, whys, etc.) feel free to ask- I'll do my best to keep tabs on the thread for a bit.

/spam


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## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

Damn... just ordered the 1x remote on monday


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

That's sick! Too bad I got rid of my stealth. But I use the wolftooth remote with my Tranfer!


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## idividebyzero (Sep 25, 2014)

gocat said:


> It is a pain to do. But at least it's rebuildable. I had a used reverb for 1 1/2 years till I need to rebuild it. Work well. I switched to a fox transfer. Working good for 9 months. But not rebuildable. Well at least nothing I've heard at this time.


I got a Bontrager Drop Line to replace a sagging Reverb, it is semi-rebuildable. You can take it apart to lube it and when the air cartridge fails its only $50 to replace, the process is extremely easy. For all the crap you have to buy to rebuild a Reverb its not much savings over $50 and you save yourself a lot of hard work.

I havent rebuilt my A2 yet, its going to be a damn nightmare, not sure if I ever will since I dont know if Im going to be able to do the IFP fluid level properly without an expensive tool Im never going to buy.


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

That's true. I bought tools for that reverb. Now I've got spares parts , tools and fluid for reverb I don't have. Lol.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Lone Ranger,
> I wish that we'd been ready in time to help you, but for anyone else is looking for an under-bar non-hydraulic Reverb setup, we at Wolf Tooth launched our Sustain kit today.
> View attachment 1156440
> 
> ...


Ill be ordering one!

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Lone Ranger,
> I wish that we'd been ready in time to help you, but for anyone else is looking for an under-bar non-hydraulic Reverb setup, we at Wolf Tooth launched our Sustain mechanical actuator for Reverb Stealth A2 or B1 posts...


It had me puzzled for a minute. The hydro remote pushes and your cable pulls. The Dehy has a lever to make the reversal. After seeing a note to allow a bit of slack in the housing within the seat tube, I realized the cable head remains stationary and you're using the housing to push.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Lone Rager said:


> It had me puzzled for a minute. The hydro remote pushes and your cable pulls. The Dehy has a lever to make the reversal. After seeing a note to allow a bit of slack in the housing within the seat tube, I realized the cable head remains stationary and you're using the housing to push.


Good eye! For every action... 

The cable housing does move 6mm when fully depressed. This setup allowed us to keep things simple, light, and compact- the pusher is made of a self-lubricating Delrin (bushing material) and also serves as a cover for the cable port. You can see how it comes together at around 8:45 in the install video.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

gocat said:


> That's sick! Too bad I got rid of my stealth. But I use the wolftooth remote with my Tranfer!


Awesome Gocat- the Transfer has been serving me well (and I like that it can, ahem, be bought without a remote).

FWIW, it sounds like the '18s are a little lighter-action than the '17, so we're leaning back to the shorter ReMote for the newer (more expensive) models.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

yeti575inCA said:


> Ill be ordering one!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


Sweet- thanks Yeti!


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## Scotth72 (Mar 15, 2004)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Lone Ranger,
> I wish that we'd been ready in time to help you, but for anyone else is looking for an under-bar non-hydraulic Reverb setup, we at Wolf Tooth launched our Sustain kit today.
> View attachment 1156440
> 
> ...


Any trouble with bikes that use a rubber grommet to seal housing to frame? Or convoluted housing runs?
Since the housing has to move to activate the post, I can see certain frames having issues. KS had to redesign their first Integras due to this very issue.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

Scotth72 said:


> Any trouble with bikes that use a rubber grommet to seal housing to frame? Or convoluted housing runs?
> Since the housing has to move to activate the post, I can see certain frames having issues. KS had to redesign their first Integras due to this very issue.


Sorry I haven't kept up with this thread, but is there a problem with the Dehy lever and plunger besides price? I was just wondering why all this Wolftooth love when another solution has been out for over a year.


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## farfromovin (Apr 18, 2009)

I just got a new reverb with the updated 1x remote. While I loved my WT on another cable post, I just can't justify going to a cable system when hydraulic works great for me.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Scott,

We haven't run into any issues in testing- and made a point to seek out frames like Santa Cruz's which use internal routing tubes. The housing movement is less 'travel' than straightening- a total of 6mm effective length change. 
My own Pivot uses a clamp at the cable exit which holds the housing firmly and I feed an extra 1/8-1/4in into the frame when closing things up. No problems whatsoever. If you're worried you might put a small zip tie above the grommet to keep it from drawing through- but we haven't run into a case where that was needed.

Marc


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Ratt said:


> Sorry I haven't kept up with this thread, but is there a problem with the Dehy lever and plunger besides price? I was just wondering why all this Wolftooth love when another solution has been out for over a year.


No problem with the DeHy. Some people prefer the rouded shape of their lever or fixed housing, some prefer the cartridge bearing, breakaway axle, and more aggressive knurling on ours. Looks are subjective and I'm sure that system weight is close enough to be a wash.

Stateside the price and availability differences are pretty big, so those may be as much a factor as anything else. I think that last week's MTBR review sums it up pretty well:
CompetitorsIf you've made it this far, you probably know Wolf Tooth isn't the first brand with this idea. The BikeYoke Dehy was introduced last year and does virtually the same thing. We've tested both and prefer the Wolf Tooth system because it's easier to install, less expensive ($90 versus $130), and has better lever.
​_The Sustain is a worthy upgrade for Reverb users._

Bottom line if you're currently using an older Reverb with a push button lever, the Sustain is a major upgrade. The install is a little nerve wracking, but honestly it's reasonably simple. Riders with RockShox's newer paddle style shifter will have less reason to upgrade, but ought to consider it if they frequently ride in cold weather or have struggled with reliability issues.


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## Scotth72 (Mar 15, 2004)

I just installed the Sustain on my 5010. I am thoroughly versed on Reverb rebuilds, so install was a snap. The remote is fantastic, and release pressure is super smooth. I will report back after I get some rides in. 
Very impressed on how this went together and how it feels on the bike.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Awesome Scotth!

If there's anything that was unclear in the instructions please let me know- we never know until something is released into the wild.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

I currently have the standard Reverb remote on the left side, under the bar. No 'real' complaints about it. 

While I don't really need to replace anything, I was eyeing the new Reverb remote and the Wolftooth one. They both add up to pretty much the same price. I guess I'm just looking at opinions on why I should go with cable actuated vs. hydro.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

I have the Reverb 1X paddle type lever and if I was to choose between getting that or the the WT cable lever, I'd get the WT. IMO, the hydro remote is large, heavy and relatively complicated with no offsetting consequential benefit. Of course if you're buying a new Reverb, you can get it with the 1X lever at no additional cost, which is how I wound up with mine.


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## farfromovin (Apr 18, 2009)

I went with a new reverb with 1x shifter on a new titanium frame build. This frame has di2 routing ports I used to get the hydraulic hose out through. Definitely not internal routing friendly for traditional size cable housings, through the BB or head tube area. I’m convinced no cable would survive this environment but the hydraulic setup works pretty good. I am a fan of WT products in general but definitely can’t use it on this build.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^^^ it'd have to be pretty tortuous for a cable not to work for a dropper. It's not like shifting where precise motion is critical.


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## Jingleman (Sep 15, 2004)

*Reverb Stealth too long*

Hello 
I tried to find a bit of help i another new thread but I had no luck, mybe here someone can help?
I would like to buy a 2017 Dartmoor Hornet front 27,5 frame but I have a problem with my new stealth post. The post is a new Stealth 2017 150 mm 30,9 with 440mm of total length. The problem is that I insert the post in the frame at my pedal height , the Connectamajig assembly goes past the hole in the seat tube which for some reason I don't know, is not at the bottom of seat tube but in the middle of it. 
I thought about 2 possible solutions, please let me know if there is chance to make them work.
IN the drawing 1 I would force the hose to make 2 loops inside the seat tube, the first loop would be at 180° and the upper loop would be less severe since it would let the hose exit the seat tube.
I drawing 2 I would force the hose to go down the seat tube, pass through the hole that connects the bb shell and seat tube, go around the plastic cover of the Sram BB and then go up through the same hole and then up again like the previous drawing. To make things even more complicated, the hole in the seat tube has an angle pointing downwards that forces the hose to go through from top . If it was a simple hole the second loop would not be needed. Since it is an hydraulic system , will those bends in the hose make the post to work in a bad way like it would be with a wire cable?Or maybe those bends will damage the hose itself? 
Thanks a lot for your help.

p.s. I also though to buy the older hose, not the Connectamajig one, which has the final assembly a bit shorter, but the hose would go past the hole anyway.


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## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

Jingleman said:


> Hello
> I tried to find a bit of help i another new thread but I had no luck, mybe here someone can help?
> I would like to buy a 2017 Dartmoor Hornet front 27,5 frame but I have a problem with my new stealth post. The post is a new Stealth 2017 150 mm 30,9 with 440mm of total length. The problem is that I insert the post in the frame at my pedal height , the Connectamajig assembly goes past the hole in the seat tube which for some reason I don't know, is not at the bottom of seat tube but in the middle of it.
> I thought about 2 possible solutions, please let me know if there is chance to make them work.
> ...


It doesn't look like that Stealth is made for your bike. With the wolftooth remote kit. It might shorten and work. Otherwise shorter dropper or different dropper


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Jingleman said:


> Hello
> I tried to find a bit of help i another new thread but I had no luck, mybe here someone can help?
> I would like to buy a 2017 Dartmoor Hornet front 27,5 frame but I have a problem with my new stealth post. The post is a new Stealth 2017 150 mm 30,9 with 440mm of total length. The problem is that I insert the post in the frame at my pedal height , the Connectamajig assembly goes past the hole in the seat tube which for some reason I don't know, is not at the bottom of seat tube but in the middle of it.
> I thought about 2 possible solutions, please let me know if there is chance to make them work.
> ...


My mates Santa Cruz Bronsan has a similar issue with a 380mm post. I tried looping the hose and the barb always ended up leaking. We ended up marking a lowest point he could push post down into frame and he had to live with that. 
Id look at a selling that post or see if a cable conversion will work. 
Another thing to do is to try and find out what dropper Dartmoor recommend.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

gocat said:


> It doesn't look like that Stealth is made for your bike. With the wolftooth remote kit. It might shorten and work. Otherwise shorter dropper or different dropper


Depending on how much lower the port is than the post end it could still be a pretty aggressive bend to get a Sustain cable out of the frame. Posting on the STW forums (assuming that you're in the UK) looking for a swap to a shorter-travel (and so shorter insertion) Reverb might be your best bet. It's generally easier to find someone to trade up than the other way around.

If you *do* go the Sustain route it might make sense to get one of those flexible V-brake noodles for the first section- that could take you to the port without taking from the Sustain the 6mm travel it needs at the base. It'd be better than just housing.

Excellent drawings BTW- those really help!


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## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

Are the new Reverbs with 1x lever more reliable? I've had a few Reverbs over the years that had warranty issues, but I have a new frame with 34.9mm ST and would like 170+ mm drop so that limits my options drastically if I don't want to shim a different post. Would you go 170mm 34.9 1x Reverb or shim a different post like the 185mm Revive or 9point8?


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Latest issue Reverbs are the most reliable so far and much improved over earlier models, irrespective of which remote you get with it.


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## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

Lone Rager said:


> Latest issue Reverbs are the most reliable so far and much improved over earlier models, irrespective of which remote you get with it.


good to know...thanks!


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

I just recently picked up a 1x Reverb remote. I considered the Wolftooth one but my LBS had one in stock and I never really minded the Reverb or its plunger remote. It's just weird the 1x remove is as big as my brake lever! Went for a ride today and it worked like a champ. I have an A2 Reverb that's been working well... I guess I'm lucky. I bought it used and developed that half-inch sag last year. I rebuilt it myself and it's been solid ever since.


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## almazing (Jul 26, 2017)

I have one on my Mega 290 and it started having vertical play after 2 weeks. At first it was only 2-3mm and now it’s 5-6mm. Bled the line and still sagging. I have to raise the post up to the amount it sags. 

I’ve read online that this is a warranty issue or something that warrants a full rebuilt. I don’t exactly have the time to go back and forth with SRAM only to have the new one do the same thing. 

So I’m cutting my losses and getting a Bontrager Line Dropper. It’s served me well on my Fuel EX and it’s user serviceable. Due to its design, it’ll never sag. And it costs 240$ and comes with a remote. 

The REVERB is a piece of crap.


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

almazing said:


> I have one on my Mega 290 and it started having vertical play after 2 weeks. At first it was only 2-3mm and now it's 5-6mm. Bled the line and still sagging. I have to raise the post up to the amount it sags.
> 
> I've read online that this is a warranty issue or something that warrants a full rebuilt. I don't exactly have the time to go back and forth with SRAM only to have the new one do the same thing.
> 
> ...


Says you. I've bought five of them, one of which required a rebuild after a years work. All still in service, working well. Once you understand the mechanism they are easy enough to work on and very reliable


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## Scotth72 (Mar 15, 2004)

almazing said:


> I have one on my Mega 290 and it started having vertical play after 2 weeks. At first it was only 2-3mm and now it's 5-6mm. Bled the line and still sagging. I have to raise the post up to the amount it sags.
> 
> I've read online that this is a warranty issue or something that warrants a full rebuilt. I don't exactly have the time to go back and forth with SRAM only to have the new one do the same thing.
> 
> ...


Bleeding the remote is futile. The post has a separate hydraulic circuit, which has failed. The remote has nothing to do with it.
I can rebuild a Reverb in less than half an hour with less than $20 in parts, and it functions perfectly for longer than the recommended service interval. It might not be the dropper for you, but I wouldn't call it a piece of crap.


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## almazing (Jul 26, 2017)

Maybe I was too harsh on it. It worked wonderfully when it wasn’t faulty. What annoys me about it is that it’s a needlessly complicated component that seemingly requires more service and rebuilds than my suspension. And the fact that SRAM knows it has issues but hasn’t really done anything to fix it. I’ve had the thing for 2 weeks and it’s sagging noticeably. I bled it completely, let it sit for a few hours and then pumped it back up to 250 and nothing. 

Now you’re telling me it needs to be rebuilt?!? Okay I get that. But just because some people learn this thing inside and out only to rebuild it every couple of months doesn’t mean it’s OK. In fact, it should just work. It shouldn’t start failing after 2 weeks of use brand new. 

Just because you can rebuild one in 30 minutes doesn’t change the fact that the design is flawed and prone to problems. And that’s what I have issue with. 

What makes the Reverb that much better than other dropper posts? And why do people keep buying them only to eventually rebuild them months or even weeks after their first use?


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## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

almazing said:


> What makes the Reverb that much better than other dropper posts? And why do people keep buying them only to eventually rebuild them months or even weeks after their first use?


They aren't better, just familiar. People probably prefer the devil they know vs the one they don't.

When someone comes out with one that works well, is reliable, and easy to maintain...only then with SRAM/RS and others step up their game.


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

almazing said:


> Maybe I was too harsh on it. It worked wonderfully when it wasn't faulty. What annoys me about it is that it's a needlessly complicated component that seemingly requires more service and rebuilds than my suspension. And the fact that SRAM knows it has issues but hasn't really done anything to fix it. I've had the thing for 2 weeks and it's sagging noticeably. I bled it completely, let it sit for a few hours and then pumped it back up to 250 and nothing.
> 
> Now you're telling me it needs to be rebuilt?!? Okay I get that. But just because some people learn this thing inside and out only to rebuild it every couple of months doesn't mean it's OK. In fact, it should just work. It shouldn't start failing after 2 weeks of use brand new.
> 
> ...


I like them because, in my experience, they are extremely reliable and RS have gone to the effort of making spares and manuals available. Try servicing your Fox Transfer, Lev or 9.8 using stock spares and literature


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## almazing (Jul 26, 2017)

Haggis said:


> I like them because, in my experience, they are extremely reliable and RS have gone to the effort of making spares and manuals available. Try servicing your Fox Transfer, Lev or 9.8 using stock spares and literature


Or I can service my Bontrager Line Dropper with tools I already have and replace the internal air cartridge if it fails. It's literally the easiest dropper post to service. Literature in a different language or no literature needed. And it just works. Sure it doesn't have the 'prestige' of the Rockshox branding. But it's inexpensive and much more reliable than most droppers out there.

https://www.mtb-news.de/news/2016/06/22/bontrager-drop-line-test-gewicht-vario-sattelstuetze/

Open up, lubricate, reassemble, and ride. Simple. Easy. No problems.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

almazing said:


> Maybe I was too harsh on it. It worked wonderfully when it wasn't faulty. What annoys me about it is that it's a needlessly complicated component that seemingly requires more service and rebuilds than my suspension. And the fact that SRAM knows it has issues but hasn't really done anything to fix it. I've had the thing for 2 weeks and it's sagging noticeably. I bled it completely, let it sit for a few hours and then pumped it back up to 250 and nothing.
> 
> Now you're telling me it needs to be rebuilt?!? Okay I get that. But just because some people learn this thing inside and out only to rebuild it every couple of months doesn't mean it's OK. In fact, it should just work. It shouldn't start failing after 2 weeks of use brand new.
> 
> ...


I had one, rebuilt it 4 times before sending it back to Rockshox. It was replaced.
Then my new bike came with a Reverb. It sagged from the day I brought it home. Rebuilt that one 6 times over 5-6 months.

Always the same failure. Sealhead o-ring popping out. Finally, I started using an o-ring from the hardware store. Been good for the past year an a half except for two failures to extend, which required a remote bleed. Thankfully, my post is far enough into the frame, that when it gets stuck down I can just lift the whole post up and complete a ride.

My Transfer on my other bike has been flawless for the year and a half I've owned it.


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## TheRed (Jan 25, 2011)

Can anybody tell me how to work out what year a 2nd hand Reverb is please?


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## Scotth72 (Mar 15, 2004)

almazing said:


> Maybe I was too harsh on it. It worked wonderfully when it wasn't faulty. What annoys me about it is that it's a needlessly complicated component that seemingly requires more service and rebuilds than my suspension. And the fact that SRAM knows it has issues but hasn't really done anything to fix it. I've had the thing for 2 weeks and it's sagging noticeably. I bled it completely, let it sit for a few hours and then pumped it back up to 250 and nothing.
> 
> Now you're telling me it needs to be rebuilt?!? Okay I get that. But just because some people learn this thing inside and out only to rebuild it every couple of months doesn't mean it's OK. In fact, it should just work. It shouldn't start failing after 2 weeks of use brand new.
> 
> ...


It is more complicated than your suspension. It needs to hold up a tremendous amount of weight, move up and down on command, and weigh very little. So, yes, it is the most maintenance intensive part on your bike.

Fox Transfers are not user serviceable. They require a $95 dollar service at (I believe) 100 hours to keep the warranty valid the last time I checked. All droppers that I know of require periodic maintenance for the warranty to be valid. Food for thought.


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## almazing (Jul 26, 2017)

Scotth72 said:


> It is more complicated than your suspension. It needs to hold up a tremendous amount of weight, move up and down on command, and weigh very little. So, yes, it is the most maintenance intensive part on your bike.
> 
> Fox Transfers are not user serviceable. They require a $95 dollar service at (I believe) 100 hours to keep the warranty valid the last time I checked. All droppers that I know of require periodic maintenance for the warranty to be valid. Food for thought.


All droppers require periodic maintenance. The Reverb just seems like it requires more maintenance than others. You guys telling me, 'I rebuilt it 6 times to make it reliable and trouble free, and even then I had to send it back to RockShox for a replacement after 2 months', isn't really a good selling point for it.

I take good care of my droppers. I wash the stanchion with soapy water and lube it with light grease after every ride to ensure that it lasts and works smoothly. There should be no reason why my Reverb is sagging after 2 weeks of use.

In any case, I've got my new Bontrager Line Dropper in, and I'll install it in the next few days. It cost me $250, and it came with one of the best and ergonomic remote levers I've ever used. I have one on my Fuel EX and it has given me absolutely no problems. It just works. And is user serviceable.

If anyone wants to buy my Reverb, PM me. Maybe you can rebuild it 6 times in 2 months to make it actually work the way it is supposed to. Then send it back to RockShox for a replacement.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

almazing said:


> All droppers require periodic maintenance. The Reverb just seems like it requires more maintenance than others. You guys telling me, 'I rebuilt it 6 times to make it reliable and trouble free, and even then I had to send it back to RockShox for a replacement after 2 months', isn't really a good selling point for it.
> 
> I take good care of my droppers. I wash the stanchion with soapy water and lube it with light grease after every ride to ensure that it lasts and works smoothly. There should be no reason why my Reverb is sagging after 2 weeks of use.
> 
> ...


The Bontrager posts seize up with a small amount of dust. I've seen a few of them do it now and stripped and cleaned they work again but not for long if it's dusty. They are part of many new posts that use a cheap gas strut as the return spring and they aren't strong enough to overcome a bit of extra friction. I do agree the lever is the best though.

As for the Fox Transfer.....I'm now running them on both my bikes as I wanted to go to 150mm travel from 125mm travel Reverbs. I only chose the transfer based on price compared to reverb. I initially didn't like the feel of the transfer as it wasn't as controlled as the reverb and just has a loud and harsh metallic bottom out. Both developed twisting, and free play in all directions within a short period of time.

I now wish I had paid the extra and put reverbs on both bikes. I have rebuilt many reverbs and have never had one back before a years riding. I just use the right tools and do it by the book. I have pinched the main seal head o'ring a few times but have now got that issue worked out. This is the main cause of the sagging. I've even opened up a new one and found the o'ring pinched. It is basically a good design that suffers from poor build quality issues. At least with rockshox they don't treat you like an idiot and allow you to rebuild all their products yourself. That wins every time for me.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

niva1989 said:


> At least with rockshox they don't treat you like an idiot and allow you to rebuild all their products yourself. That wins every time for me.


Fox dont either.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Rick Draper said:


> Fox dont either.


Pretty difficult to find spares here in Australia. I haven't had luck finding manuals as easy to use and as detailed as RS ones when I've needed them. As an experiment I'll see If I can find a full rebuild kit from an online retailer here in Australia for my transfer post, then I'll try and find a step by step rebuild manual along with any special tools I might need. I'm not hopeful.


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

Rick Draper said:


> Fox dont either.


Ok. I stand corrected and was able to find a procedure but I wasn't able to find any parts for them with an online retailer here in Australia. In the same time I could have downloaded the latest manual from RS website and ordered a full rebuild kit and all of the special tools I needed to do the job. RS do make it a lot easier for the home mechanic or anyone that wants to give it a go.


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## dba4life (Aug 26, 2011)

I've got a B1 reverb stealth that came on my SC Hightower. I got the 5mm vertical sag issue and some side to side play. I took it to my LBS and they talked to SRAM and they said 5mm is within their acceptable tolerance for this seatpost and denied the warranty. Anyone else also hear this answer from them? Not super happy.

I am not real tech savy, I assume this would need a full rebuild to fix? Is there a good resource to send this off to for service? Or I may just get another post from another manufacturer. Reverbs and myself don't mix well.

Thanks


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

A few mm sag is common and not something I notice riding...along with a degree or so of rotation. My two week old Reverb exhibits this as did my previous 2 year old Reverb.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

dba4life, they'd have to pull the whole thing apart and refill/reset the whole system. You probably wouldn't need any seals. Pretty lousy though when they say 5mm is acceptable when other posts from other companies don't do this (I think). While I've had pretty damn good luck with my Reverb, I'm surprised people still buy them...unless they come oem.


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## dreys (Jan 21, 2014)

I have an interesting problem with my Reverb.

Just completed full rebuild (all seals, barbs, everything). However, somehow after the rebuild my post will not stay up. If pressed hard, it will go down even without using the remote. Than it will go up, again without using a remote.

Anyone know what could be the issue?


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## jnashed (Sep 12, 2016)

*cold weather*

so what's the current thoughts on how to overcome cold weather poor performance. I have a month old bike with a new reverb post. Worked great but when I rode today with 30 degree Fahrenheit weather it stopped working altogether, got it to work once home and bike warmed up but only on fastest setting and the lost is very very slow.

i am going to bleed it but anything else to do. I saw many other posts with this issue but I figured 30 not that cold and I did not find what most people do to rectify this in the short term and long term.

thanks


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## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

have you tried asking sram?


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## niels65 (Jun 11, 2015)

*Pack my Reverb equipped bike for plane travel*

Hi Guys,
I'm planning to take my bike abroad on a plane. It will be packed in an EVOC bike travel bag, so protection should be ok. What I wonder is whether there are some suggestions on the Reverb Stealth, should I compress it, or let it be extended when packing? If I have to have it extended, I'll probably have it upside down so I don't have to disconnect the hydraulic, but of course protect the loop coming up from the seat stay tube.
Cheers Niels


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

I'm sure it's in here somewhere, but what approx weight is the Reverb oil anyway? Regarding the cold, what if you were to refill the post with 2.5wt oil? I'm thinking that may help with keeping it moving.


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## smcnair (Jul 26, 2010)

I filled mine with Redline "like water" 0w synthetic. It still slows down around 0degC. It is noticably faster moving in the summer though

I should have but didn't use the 0w in the hose as well, I just used the rockshox stuff. Will purge and fill the line with 0w in a few weeks when I get to maintenance


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

There's oil in the post, and oil in the remote and hose. The two don't mix and serve different functions. The remote oil operates a valve in the post. The valve in the post lets post oil in and out of the post cylinder. How fast the post moves depends on how far the valve is open and the viscosity of the post oil. How far the valve opens is controlled by the displacement of the remote piston and speed control knob or screw. Viscous oil in the remote might slow how fast you can activate the remote, but not how fast the post moves once it is activated.


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## smcnair (Jul 26, 2010)

Lone Rager said:


> There's oil in the post, and oil in the remote and hose. The two don't mix and serve different functions. The remote oil operates a valve in the post. The valve in the post lets post oil in and out of the post cylinder. How fast the post moves depends on how far the valve is open and the viscosity of the post oil. How far the valve opens is controlled by the displacement of the remote piston and speed control knob or screw. Viscous oil in the remote might slow how fast you can activate the remote, but not how fast the post moves once it is activated.


That is why I didn't bother changing the hose oil. In hindsight, it only would have taken 5 more minutes and why not rule out hose oil flow, piston movement, restrictions that become extreme with thick oil, other unknowns?


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

niels65 said:


> Hi Guys,
> I'm planning to take my bike abroad on a plane. It will be packed in an EVOC bike travel bag, so protection should be ok. What I wonder is whether there are some suggestions on the Reverb Stealth, should I compress it, or let it be extended when packing? If I have to have it extended, I'll probably have it upside down so I don't have to disconnect the hydraulic, but of course protect the loop coming up from the seat stay tube.
> Cheers Niels


it is shipped extended from the factory so i suppose it should be left extended in travel


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## dhalsey (Aug 10, 2010)

*Used Rockshox reverb 31.6 droppers*

I am done with reverbs. i don't have the tools and I don't want to pay to get them rebuilt. Any of you reverb rebuilding experts out here can pick these up for a steal.

Used Rockshox reverb 31.6 dropper post 420mm - MTBR Classifieds

Used Rockshox Reverb Stealth Dropper Post 31.6 380mm and Bike Yoke DeHy - MTBR Classifieds


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## jusutus (Oct 4, 2017)

Noob making stupid things and asking stupid things; I bought my first Reverb and routed the hose through my frame, connected the post and 1x remote and decided to have a test sit. Since I had to unplug the hose from both ends I know there is a LOT of air in the line and it needs a bleed, but since I don't have a bleed kit I didn't have a chance to do that.

During the test sit the post went down of course and won't come up. Did I break something or does the line just need a bleed to release the valve to raise the post?


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## Uly (Aug 18, 2009)

jusutus said:


> Noob making stupid things and asking stupid things; I bought my first Reverb and routed the hose through my frame, connected the post and 1x remote and decided to have a test sit. Since I had to unplug the hose from both ends I know there is a LOT of air in the line and it needs a bleed, but since I don't have a bleed kit I didn't have a chance to do that.
> 
> During the test sit the post went down of course and won't come up. Did I break something or does the line just need a bleed to release the valve to raise the post?


These posts are pretty sturdy so you shouldnt have broken anything. I would have thought that even with air in the line since you had enough pressure to release the brake for the sit that there would have been enough pressure for the release on the raise as well, but I could be wrong.


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## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

Did you get it used? I thought they came with the bleed kit and reverb oil


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## jusutus (Oct 4, 2017)

It's off a new bike but did not come with the bleed kit. Just bought one but it won't arrive until after Christmas. Thanks for the replies!


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## sturge (Feb 22, 2009)

New Reverb Stealth (b.1) owner here (170mm)...Came on my fresh out of the box 2018 Kona Process 153 AL/DL which showed up a week ago. After completing bike assy in my cold garage, the dropper would not extend when remote depressed. I tried adjusting +/- speed control knob, and totally loosened post clamp - still no workie. 

Brought bike inside warm house and after reaching room temp the post worked fine. I checked pressure and it was approx. 210psi so pumped it to 250psi. Tweaked speed to preference, everything worked great. Put bike back in cold garage (close to 0 Deg F outside last night) and this morning post does not go up when button pushed.

This is my first dropper. Assuming system bleed is next...I found SRAM guidance on how to bleed but need to get kit. 

Does this sound like remote or post bleed as being culprit? There is about 1/8" to 1/4" additional travel on remote if I pull out on it from it's resting position. Anything else I should check?


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## niels65 (Jun 11, 2015)

@sturge - unfortunately this is the downside of the hydraulic in the Reverb. This behavior is pretty ordinary I see it every winter when the temperature is low. Earlier in the thread someone experimented with a different oil, try to look for the post. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

sturge said:


> Does this sound like remote or post bleed as being culprit? There is about 1/8" to 1/4" additional travel on remote if I pull out on it from it's resting position. Anything else I should check?


No. My understanding of the operation of the dropper is that whether cable actuated or hydraulic actuated, in cold temps (below freezing) you get this type of behavior. maybe just switch to traditional seat post during the winter (shrug).

I don't winter ride so don't have any experience to share. possibly other winter warriors can chime in


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## Grassington (Jun 24, 2017)

sturge said:


> New Reverb Stealth (b.1) owner here (170mm)...Came on my fresh out of the box 2018 Kona Process 153 AL/DL which showed up a week ago. After completing bike assy in my cold garage, the dropper would not extend when remote depressed. I tried adjusting +/- speed control knob, and totally loosened post clamp - still no workie.
> 
> Brought bike inside warm house and after reaching room temp the post worked fine. I checked pressure and it was approx. 210psi so pumped it to 250psi. Tweaked speed to preference, everything worked great. Put bike back in cold garage (close to 0 Deg F outside last night) and this morning post does not go up when button pushed.
> 
> ...


Reverbs are notorious for getting stuck in the cold, and they're even more prone to getting stuck if the remote needs a bleed. Someone on mtbr (maybe in this thread?) contacted SRAM about this and they replied that all their products are only spec'd down to 0 °C (32 °F), which is pretty damn shabby if you ask me. I've got a Reverb A2 on my winter bike and it got stuck down at about 4 °C (39 °F) a couple of weeks ago, though it worked fine once the bike was back in the warm again. I gave the remote a bleed and the oil that came out was black - possibly I've got a model from that dodgy batch that went around and the seals are dissolving. It worked much better for a bit, but got stuck again yesterday at 2 °C (36 °F) so I think it's time to bite the bullet and give it a proper overhaul.

If your remote nubbin isn't extending fully then that's symptomatic of the need for a bleed. You'll need the proper bleed kit and some kosher Reverb fluid. It's fairly easy and relatively mess-free: Hydraulic Remote Service Manual.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

Grassington said:


> Someone on mtbr (maybe in this thread?) contacted SRAM about this and they replied that all their products are only spec'd down to 0 °C (32 °F)...


:lol: That's why RockShox has always been a joke to me. Subpar crap. It works OK, sometimes, but I've never been impressed with anything RockShox since 1995.

I find my Reverb gets stuck if the remote needs a bleed. Try bleeding it. Mine always got stuck in the cold weather.

Transfer - not so much. That thing works no matter what the temperature is.


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## sturge (Feb 22, 2009)

Thanks to all who provided input to my question (see post #2909)....Found an 'official' bleed kit at local shop. Talked w/tech and he pretty much agreed with above input regarding poor performance of hydraulics in very cold weather. 

I will do bleed per SRAM guidance to ensure I am starting out with a properly set up dropper & remote. During cold rides I will set desired height and not mess with it until spring warmth comes...not like I will be missing anything since this is my first dropper.


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## jnashed (Sep 12, 2016)

I had my Reverb dropper stop functioning completely at about 30 F a few weeks ago. No up or down. once it warmed it moved all be it very slowly. I took it home and did a bleed and noted more air in the system then I would have thought. So after the bleed I have ridden to temps 20F and slightly below and although the post is noticeably slower, and I have to fully open the port to "fast" to get the performance I usually get near the middle of the valve options. It is functional so far. I did a bleed with the SRAM bleed kit as well. Hope this helps


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## Grassington (Jun 24, 2017)

*sturge*, if it helps, the Reverb does give a bit of warning that it's about to get stuck due to cold as the seatpost takes longer and longer to rise, until eventually it will rise no more until it warms up again. You should be able to use your dropper normally if it's rising at the usual rate, but if it takes a couple of seconds to rise then it's time to set the desired height for the rest of the ride and leave it at that. Some people like to put a bit of extra pressure in for the cold (I'm running at 260 psi set at @ 25 °C at the moment) but there are risks involved in running above the specified 250 psi, and bear in mind that the pressure will rise as the temperature rises.

I'm about to do another bleed tonight. It will be interesting to see what colour the fluid is. I reckon there's a good chance it will be black again, bearing in mind I only gave it a full bleed 2 weeks ago.


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## Grassington (Jun 24, 2017)

^Update: Just done another bleed (2 weeks since the last one) and though the bled fluid wasn't as black as last time, it was pretty dark. Definitely time for some new seals then. At room temperature at least the remote plunger operation does seem a lot smoother and easier than before the bleed, so possibly bits of seal dissolved in the fluid aren't helping with the cold weather sticking issue.

I didn't notice any air bubbles aside from those introduced by attaching the syringes, but what I did notice during the dual syringe back-and-forth operation was that the bubbles can be very small and take a while to drift to the top of the syringe (it's worth waiting for this to happen). I keep the fluid stored in an unheated garage (currently sitting at 9 °C / 48 °F) so I think the next time I do a bleed I'll use fluid at room temperature so the bubbles drift a bit faster.


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## Spacer (Sep 4, 2010)

It may be better to bleed the remote with the oil at a cooler temperature. 
Oil will expand when heated and contract when cooled.
I'm thinking this is why when it is cold the remote function slows down or stops altogether. When it is warm there is enough volume for the remote piston to actuate the valve but when it is colder the volume of oil is reduced which negatively affects the valve actuation.


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## sturge (Feb 22, 2009)

Update from post #2909...

Found a bleed kit and used Rockshox website guidance to perform a total system bleed (remote and post) for my new 170mm b.1. I did get a small bit of air out. Was not difficult.

I got tired of waiting for this cold snap to move out so I went for my first 'shakedown' ride with new Kona Process 153 yesterday (10 deg F...brrr!). After arriving at trailhead (45 minute drive), I lowered post about an inch and confirmed remote would pop it back up. I chose not to mess with it during ride because I wanted to give new bike a good test run. After 2hr ride I ran post all the way down and it popped back up with no issues so it appears the bleed was successful in solving the cold weather issue mentioned in my original post.

Conclusions:
1. If you have a new post don't assume it has been properly bled.
2. Performing bleed using Rockshox kit and website guidance is not difficult.
3. My new 170mm b.1 Reverb Stealth will work in VERY cold weather (10 deg F / -12 deg C) if properly set up / bled.
4. Based on others experiences, not all Reverbs will work in very cold weather even if properly setup / bled.


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## jnashed (Sep 12, 2016)

Good summary. I agree with all four. especially #1.


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## farfromovin (Apr 18, 2009)

jnashed said:


> Good summary. I agree with all four. especially #1.


Yeah, #1 is kinda like "Don't assume a derailleur hanger is straight" when setting up a new drivetrain. Stuff happens, pays to verify.


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## sturge (Feb 22, 2009)

Second ride...Did a 23 deg F night ride last night and used the dropper the whole ride. Worked flawlessly. Thanks to all for input.


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## jnashed (Sep 12, 2016)

so does anyone have any cold weather issues on reverbs with mechanical cable remotes and not the hydraulic ones. Seems like a Wolfs tooth remote or another like it should be the answer.


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## Jingleman (Sep 15, 2004)

Hello
do you know where I can find a spare Reverb lower outer tube assembly 440x30,9?
I found many online shops that sell the older 430x30,9 version, but not the new longer 440mm one.
thanks a lot


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## caspar (Feb 2, 2004)

B1 stealth reverb sag after rebuild....
Have succesfully rebuilt A1 external and stealths several times , but my b1 stealth is giving us troubles. 9 month old , lube and new keys and oil and all went smooth. Post was rock solid but only untill we lowered it for the first time. It immediately developed aprox 5mm of sag.It does not feel like “air” sag, post can be depressed aprox 5mm and then a hard stop. What did we do wrong ?


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## brownfish (Apr 10, 2014)

Hi and sorry for not being able to sift through 30 pages to find my answer. I was lucky to get a great deal on a new bike. Sadly, because of the deal, I had to have a local mobile mechanic put the bike together, pretty much from scratch (meaning it wasn't put together in a lbs, and I have no real warranty or service agreement). I tested him out a few times with my other bikes and he seemed pretty good and knowledgeable, plus he was a really nice guy. 

So my bike normally retails for about $5k and it came with a Rockshox Reverb Stealth with a 1x remote. My bike is incredible and I am super stoked with it, except that my seatpost has gotten stuck and needed to be re-bled 3x in the last 2 months. The service guy has been super nice and hasn't charged me for it, but now he's saying that it's the post, and that I should contact Rockshox and try and warranty it. So I figure it's time for me to take over the maintenance and see if I can get it worked out. I bought a standard bleed kit, but when I started the watching the videos I noticed that the 1x remote upgrade comes with a bleeding edge tool. My question is will I be able to bleed my system with the standard bleed kit, or do I have to have the bleeding edge tool also?


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## jnashed (Sep 12, 2016)

brownfish

I had a similar problem. Bought a brand new Santa Cruz Hightower in October. 2 bleeds since then due to stuck seat post. All in cold weather. There is a definite issue with many reverb posts in the cold and it seems to be with the hydraulic remote. Air gets in and it becomes first sluggish and then stops. I rebled mine as I said . I used the standard RockShock bleed kit and my post is the B post and I have the plunger type remote. 

Ive chosen to buy a Wolftooth Sustain remote and hope to install it over the next few days. I am going away from the hydraulic remote and going with a mechanical. I live in a climate where I ride in temps under 35 degrees commonly so for me and others , this seems to be a good compromise. 

Jim


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## brownfish (Apr 10, 2014)

Hi Jim, 
Unfortunately I cannot blame it on the cold as I live in San Diego. My biggest problem is I don't wanna start trying to bleed mine with the standard bleed kit, if I also need the bleeding edge tool that comes with the 1x remote. Apparently when you buy the 1x remote upgrade it comes with the bleeding edge tool. It's $70 bucks on amazon for the remote and the tool. The tool alone is $25. Doesn't make much sense. But, with that being said, I watched the mechanic bleed my system twice, and I don't think he had that tool. I think he was bleeding it with the standard bleed kit, and I'm wondering if that is why I'm having this problem.


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## zachattak (Jan 10, 2012)

brownfish said:


> Hi and sorry for not being able to sift through 30 pages to find my answer. I was lucky to get a great deal on a new bike. Sadly, because of the deal, I had to have a local mobile mechanic put the bike together, pretty much from scratch (meaning it wasn't put together in a lbs, and I have no real warranty or service agreement). I tested him out a few times with my other bikes and he seemed pretty good and knowledgeable, plus he was a really nice guy.
> 
> So my bike normally retails for about $5k and it came with a Rockshox Reverb Stealth with a 1x remote. My bike is incredible and I am super stoked with it, except that my seatpost has gotten stuck and needed to be re-bled 3x in the last 2 months. The service guy has been super nice and hasn't charged me for it, but now he's saying that it's the post, and that I should contact Rockshox and try and warranty it. So I figure it's time for me to take over the maintenance and see if I can get it worked out. I bought a standard bleed kit, but when I started the watching the videos I noticed that the 1x remote upgrade comes with a bleeding edge tool. My question is will I be able to bleed my system with the standard bleed kit, or do I have to have the bleeding edge tool also?


Brownfish,

The reverb bleed kit comes with a bleeding edge syringe tip.


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## brownfish (Apr 10, 2014)

Actually it doesn't. I have attached pictures of the special bleeding edge tool. Also attached a picture of what's in the bleeding kit that I have. My question is will the kit I have work, or is it pretty mandatory to have the special tool? Since bleeding has failed multiple times now, I'm wondering if not using this tool, is the weak link?


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## armii (Jan 9, 2016)

brownfish said:


> Actually it doesn't. I have attached pictures of the special bleeding edge tool. Also attached a picture of what's in the bleeding kit that I have. My question is will the kit I have work, or is it pretty mandatory to have the special tool? Since bleeding has failed multiple times now, I'm wondering if not using this tool, is the weak link?


I'm not sure how you can bleed a Reverb without the tool? The tool came with my Reverb post. Which came with the new lever.


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## brownfish (Apr 10, 2014)

armii said:


> I'm not sure how you can bleed a Reverb without the tool? The tool came with my Reverb post. Which came with the new lever.


THANK YOU. AND WE HAVE AN ANSWER!!!

I Contacted the guy that built my bike and asked if the tool was in the box. He said it was and is going to drop it off later today. You just saved me $25 and a few days waiting for it to come in the mail. Hopefully I can get this thing worked out? If not, I guess I will be contacting Rockshox!


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## armii (Jan 9, 2016)

brownfish said:


> THANK YOU. AND WE HAVE AN ANSWER!!!
> 
> I Contacted the guy that built my bike and asked if the tool was in the box. He said it was and is going to drop it off later today. You just saved me $25 and a few days waiting for it to come in the mail. Hopefully I can get this thing worked out? If not, I guess I will be contacting Rockshox!


Here is a good video on the SRAM/Rockshock new lever install and bleed. Just after the 3 minute mark is the part about using the adapter tool.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Yeah. Note that, as in the vid, you should use an allen to break the lever bleed screw free the first time as it's come pretty tight from the factory and you don't want to risk stripping the aluminum hex tip of the bleeding edge tool trying to break it free.

FWIW, I have ~1 year old Reverb with a 1X remote and have been using down near 0F without issues, other than it being slow.


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## gregtherider1 (Jan 25, 2018)

Hi! I am in the lookout for the same part as the guy in the post #2310 - I need new poppet valve housing. Regarding to the exploded diagram in service manual, this part is the same for A2 and B1 models. Does anyone have an idea where I could find one?


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## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

gregtherider1 said:


> Hi! I am in the lookout for the same part as the guy in the post #2310 - I need new poppet valve housing. Regarding to the exploded diagram in service manual, this part is the same for A2 and B1 models. Does anyone have an idea where I could find one?


I'd send Rockshox an email and see if they will set you up.


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## gregtherider1 (Jan 25, 2018)

Just did that... Their answer: "Unfortunately, this part is not available separately. If it is damaged, the post will need to be replaced."

You can pratically get any Reverb part as spare but this! Watch out guys, dont make the same mistake I did!


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## Uly (Aug 18, 2009)

gregtherider1 said:


> Just did that... Their answer: "Unfortunately, this part is not available separately. If it is damaged, the post will need to be replaced."


:eekster:
:madman:


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

So I installed a 1x lever. Did the bleed and everything seems to function as it should. I initially thought I did the bleed wrong since the post would not move down...but turning the return speed screw to fast...it worked just fine.

Question is on the feel of the lever. The amount of pressure to actuate the lever is similar to that of the plunger? Since its still hydraulic...the lever should still be on the firm side? I mean not as light as a cable actuated dropper.


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## farfromovin (Apr 18, 2009)

RS VR6 said:


> So I installed a 1x lever. Did the bleed and everything seems to function as it should. I initially thought I did the bleed wrong since the post would not move down...but turning the return speed screw to fast...it worked just fine.
> 
> Question is on the feel of the lever. The amount of pressure to actuate the lever is similar to that of the plunger? Since its still hydraulic...the lever should still be on the firm side? I mean not as light as a cable actuated dropper.


I almost can't remember what the plunger on my last bike felt like, but the 1x remote is more effort than a cable remote like wolftooth or a typical rear derailleur shifter. I *think* the effort is less than the plunger though, shouldn't feel excessively tight. You should be able to vary the post speed with that return screw, not just on/off.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

farfromovin said:


> I almost can't remember what the plunger on my last bike felt like, but the 1x remote is more effort than a cable remote like wolftooth or a typical rear derailleur shifter. I *think* the effort is less than the plunger though, shouldn't feel excessively tight. You should be able to vary the post speed with that return screw, not just on/off.


Its not tight like its binding. Pressure is close to the plunger. Just wanted to double check.

Thanks!


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

The 1X lever does require a fair amount of force to actuate. I think it's more than most would expect.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I figured it would be the same. You're still pushing the same fluid. 

Got a chance to ride with it today. This has to be one of the best things I've gotten for my bike.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

The resistance is due to the spring, pivot and seal friction, leverage ratio etc. The lever has about the same resistance with the hose disconnected.


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## matadorCE (Jun 26, 2013)

Is there a problem with the 1x remotes? I got a new bike that came with the plunger style, and switched to the 1x lever but the post wouldn't work. I bled it twice and took it to a shop to have it bled and same result: post would lock up on the slowest setting, and only move when the screw was turned to the fastest speed and even then it was very slow to return and eventually would lock up. 
Last night I put the plunger remote back on and suprise!, the dropper works like it should again. It returns normally at the slowest speed setting, and it just works like it should. The bike is new so the dropper has 5 total rides on it (4 with the plunger and 1 with the 1x lever). This is my fourth Reverb that I've owned among different bikes so I'm familiar with what it should feel like and how it performs. I'm stumped that the 1x lever would cause this many problems.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

I've helped a few acquaintances install 1X remotes. The bleed process is a bit different and it's harder to get all the air out of the remote, but with a good bleed they worked fine. 

Hydro brakes have a reservoir to allow for pad wear, and a little air in the reservoir isn't a problem. Reverb remotes have no reservoir so any air left in the system is NG.


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## matadorCE (Jun 26, 2013)

Lone Rager said:


> I've helped a few acquaintances install 1X remotes. The bleed process is a bit different and it's harder to get all the air out of the remote, but with a good bleed they worked fine.
> 
> Hydro brakes have a reservoir to allow for pad wear, and a little air in the reservoir isn't a problem. Reverb remotes have no reservoir so any air left in the system is NG.


You're probably right, since I did a ride today with the post and plunger remote and had zero issues. This was in 35deg weather while my ride with the 1x remote was in 60 deg temp so temperature is not the issue. I'm going to stick with what works for now and try to figure this out later, but it's a bummer since the lever is so much easier and intuitive to use than the plunger.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

matadorCE said:


> Is there a problem with the 1x remotes? I got a new bike that came with the plunger style, and switched to the 1x lever but the post wouldn't work. I bled it twice and took it to a shop to have it bled and same result: post would lock up on the slowest setting, and only move when the screw was turned to the fastest speed and even then it was very slow to return and eventually would lock up.
> Last night I put the plunger remote back on and suprise!, the dropper works like it should again. It returns normally at the slowest speed setting, and it just works like it should. The bike is new so the dropper has 5 total rides on it (4 with the plunger and 1 with the 1x lever). This is my fourth Reverb that I've owned among different bikes so I'm familiar with what it should feel like and how it performs. I'm stumped that the 1x lever would cause this many problems.


I ran into the exact same thing. I had the remote in the slowest setting...and the post would not drop. I turned it to the fastest and it seems to work fine. Turn it back to the slowest setting...and the post will not drop. Dropper works everywhere in between...just not the all the way slow.

One thing I've noticed is that the post wll sag about ~2mm when I sit in the saddle. It could be something that's been happening the whole time...but I just never noticed it. Is this normal for the Reverb or should I bleed the post and remote again? The air pressure was a bit low in the post...so I pumped it back up to 250psi...but didn't make much of a difference.

Put on a zip tie to see the sag.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

RS VR6 said:


> I ran into the exact same thing. I had the remote in the slowest setting...and the post would not drop. I turned it to the fastest and it seems to work fine. Turn it back to the slowest setting...and the post will not drop.
> 
> One thing I've noticed is that the post wll sag about ~2mm when I sit in the saddle. It could be something that's been happening the whole time...but I just never noticed it. Is this normal for the Reverb or should I bleed the post and remote again? The air pressure was a bit low in the post...so I pumped it back up to 250psi...but didn't make much of a difference.
> 
> ...


My Reverb does the sag thing too...

But, after riding for a while I,

a) don't notice it
b) it warms up & ceases sagging

You could try the dirty hack I found on the interwebs...

Turn bike upside down w/ seat post fully extended... w/ bike still in the upside position, depress the extended seat post (fully).

I've had limited success w/ the above ^^

'We'll all make it to the top... Some of us, might not make it to the bottom'


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## greddyvox (Jun 23, 2011)

RS VR6 said:


> I ran into the exact same thing. I had the remote in the slowest setting...and the post would not drop. I turned it to the fastest and it seems to work fine. Turn it back to the slowest setting...and the post will not drop. Dropper works everywhere in between...just not the all the way slow.
> 
> One thing I've noticed is that the post wll sag about ~2mm when I sit in the saddle. It could be something that's been happening the whole time...but I just never noticed it. Is this normal for the Reverb or should I bleed the post and remote again? The air pressure was a bit low in the post...so I pumped it back up to 250psi...but didn't make much of a difference.
> 
> ...


I'm getting the same sag too, just a tiny bit that makes a slight knocking sound when u sit on it, thought it was my saddle flexing at first. Mine's a B1 stealth 150mm, was intending to have the LBS take a look at it.

But maybe it's nothing to worry about since everything else works fine?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

targnik said:


> My Reverb does the sag thing too...
> 
> But, after riding for a while I,
> 
> ...


I tried flipping the bike upside down and pressed the lever. It didn't do anything. I'm not going to worry about it unless it gets worse.



greddyvox said:


> I'm getting the same sag too, just a tiny bit that makes a slight knocking sound when u sit on it, thought it was my saddle flexing at first. Mine's a B1 stealth 150mm, was intending to have the LBS take a look at it.
> 
> But maybe it's nothing to worry about since everything else works fine?


Mine is an A2. I don't hear anything when I get on the saddle. I haven't noticed any more play than before...otherwise the post works fine. I might try bleeding the post and remote again this weekend.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

RS VR6 said:


> I tried flipping the bike upside down and pressed the lever. It didn't do anything. ....


With bike upside down, press the lever, compress the post, release the lever with the post compressed, flip the bike right side up, press the lever to extend the post. Compressing the post with the bike upside can expel air from the IFP tube. Allowing the post to extend with the bike upside down can suck air in. It's air where it doesn't belong that causes sag. Ideally, the air is separated from the oil by the IFP. Sagging occurs when air leaks past the IFP and gets in with the oil and then into the IFP tube.

Virtually all new Rerverbs I looked at on bikes at the LBS had a few mm of sag. I don't think it's anything to be concerned about.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Ok...I'll give it a shot.

It's probably been there the whole time and I just didn't notice it. I'm only noticing it now because I installed the 1x lever and repeatedly checking on the post.

Thanks for the replies people.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Soooo...here I an again.

I just ordered a 150mm Reverb Stealth on an impulse. After ordering...I started to think that it may be too long. _The collar of the Reverb will be pretty much slammed (or close to it) on the seat collar. _I'm afraid that the fitting of the Reverb will extend past the exit of the seat tube for the dropper.

My current dropper is a 125mm external Reverb.

The Reverb is the 440mm B1 Stealth.

The exit for the dropper hose is about ~282mm from the hole to the top of the seat collar.

Here is a side view of the seat tube. The bump on the lower part of the seat tube is where the hose would exit the frame. Anybody think the 150mm will be too long?

Thanks!


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## yourrealdad (May 17, 2012)

Just got my new bike and it came with the reverb. Ordered the 1x remote, because why would a brand new bike not come with one? Anyways this is how fast my reverb comes up at full speed in my garage being 41 degrees. Is this the normal return speed for fast? Or do I need to bleed it again, cause that was a pain in the butt. I have only used cable actuated droppers until now and I felt they were all faster.






P.S. is there an easier way to imbed video into a post?

Thanks for the replies


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

yourrealdad said:


> ...because why would a brand new bike not come with one...


OEM cost on the 1x Remote is significantly higher than the pushbutton- I don't remember how much but remember being surprised. It can be done but will come at a cost at the retail level or significant spec compromises elsewhere.


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## yourrealdad (May 17, 2012)

Sorry that was more of a rhetorical sarcastic question. The answer is always so they can make more money.


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## Grassington (Jun 24, 2017)

yourrealdad said:


> Just got my new bike and it came with the reverb. Ordered the 1x remote, because why would a brand new bike not come with one? Anyways this is how fast my reverb comes up at full speed in my garage being 41 degrees. Is this the normal return speed for fast? Or do I need to bleed it again, cause that was a pain in the butt. I have only used cable actuated droppers until now and I felt they were all faster.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's about as fast as a Reverb gets at that temperature, and it'll get slower as the temperature drops and/or the closer it gets to a bleed or service interval.

I was having terrible trouble with my Reverb A2 sticking in the cold weather. It's shamefully overdue for a full service and it took three full bleeds before I could get it working properly in the cold again. This seems to be in line with many Reverb users' experiences. One thing I did notice is that any air in the Remote system breaks up into tiny, tiny bubbles that are very reluctant to drift upwards in the fluid, so that might play a part in explaining why it can sometimes take several bleeds before the job's a good 'un.

I'm also starting to get a bit of stiction now. Until I get around to a full service I've managed to reduce the stiction a bit by smearing a bit of SRAM Butter on the (clean) post, moving the Reverb up and down a few times, wiping off the excess, then repeating this whole procedure a few times. It seems that enough Butter gets past the top cap seal to help lube the bush, and a bit of dirt gets spat out too.


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## Bude! (Feb 15, 2018)

Hi,
Not sure if this is the right place to ask. I am looking at picking up a rockshox reverb stealth in 150mm. I currently have a Ergon SME3 Pro Carbon saddle that I would like to use. I am not sure if I can fit the saddle rails into the reverbs mount? Anybody run a Reverb with a SME3?

Thanks!


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Haven't run a Reverb with that Ergon, but have with other 7mm x 9mm carbon rails. It works fine, as does just about any post that clamps the rails from the top and bottom rather than from the sides. Just make sure there are no sharp edges or burrs on edges of the clamps, which holds for non-CF rails too.


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## BicBoy (Feb 26, 2018)

Hey. I made a thread in components but nobody really knew what to tell me so here I am
I have a reverb and a couple days ago I was tugging the cable because it was rubbing on my headtube pretty hard when turning the bars. It was also in the bike stand for a while. Now when I got on the bike, the lever is really slow and delayed and by the time the post has gone down or up it has returned to where it was because the lever takes forever to come back tight. 
Where should I start?
thanks


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Bude! said:


> Hi,
> Not sure if this is the right place to ask. I am looking at picking up a rockshox reverb stealth in 150mm. I currently have a Ergon SME3 Pro Carbon saddle that I would like to use. I am not sure if I can fit the saddle rails into the reverbs mount? Anybody run a Reverb with a SME3?
> 
> Thanks!


It should work since the Reverb clamps from the top and bottom. Most carbon railed saddles have oval rails and don't play nice with seat posts that clamp from the side. Side clamp posts will usually require new clamps to take oval rails.


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## muddydc (Feb 26, 2004)

BicBoy said:


> Hey. I made a thread in components but nobody really knew what to tell me so here I am
> I have a reverb and a couple days ago I was tugging the cable because it was rubbing on my headtube pretty hard when turning the bars. It was also in the bike stand for a while. Now when I got on the bike, the lever is really slow and delayed and by the time the post has gone down or up it has returned to where it was because the lever takes forever to come back tight.
> Where should I start?
> thanks


Try bleeding the cable. I had similar issue and bleeding worked. Plenty of videos on how to do it on YouTube.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## LaXCarp (Jul 19, 2008)

Im sure the answer to this issue is buried in this thread, but in the interest of my time, I'll start by asking you fine folks:

Mid-ride my A1 reverb will not stay down...it shoots up like a piston. As my ride continues it wont stay up either if I'm sitting on it. So what do you think is happening?

Will I need to do a full service rebuild, or just the basic? I do all of my own suspension work, is this something I can/should tackle on my own? I've had it rebuilt in the past but would prefer not to spend the $/time dealing with a shop if I don't need to.


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## TeamRWB (Feb 19, 2014)

Man I am really torn on getting this post. I have a very good deal on one new for less than 200 bucks. Or should I just bite the bullet and buy a Fox or Thomson? I can only run external so I'm very limited on options.

I Cycle so I don't choke people! 

Sent from the Beer Cloud


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## muddydc (Feb 26, 2004)

TeamRWB,
I had a Reverb A1 external and I got tired of having the inner seal come loose and leaking air and needing to bleed the hydraulic line a lot. Also the bushings wear out quick. I replaced it with a Fox Transfer external with a Wolftooth Lever and I will never go back. I had the A1 1st generation Reverb though. I guess they made a lot of improvements on the A2 and B1.


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## muddydc (Feb 26, 2004)

LaXCarp,
I had a similar problem a few different times on my A1 and found that the inner seal head can come loose which unseats the air chamber O ring and causes an air leak. I did a partial rebuild using the full kit. The A1 had a lot of problems with leaks and bushings wearing fast. If you do a rebuild make sure to use loctite on seal head threads after cleaning it with alcohol well. You need a soft vise clamp to hold the post and inner shaft to tighten parts. Check on Youtube and Google for info on rebuilding. Another common problem on the Reverb but it doesn't sound like yours is the actuator button hydraulic line gets air in it and has to be bled. Before you take it apart you might contact RockShox and tell them the problems you're having. I had a seal leakage and broken damper on a RockShox Revelation fork a few years back. They paided for an authorized bike shop to repair my fork and even upgraded the damper on it. The fork was even out of the warranty time.


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## TeamRWB (Feb 19, 2014)

muddydc said:


> TeamRWB,
> I had a Reverb A1 external and I got tired of having the inner seal come loose and leaking air and needing to bleed the hydraulic line a lot. Also the bushings wear out quick. I replaced it with a Fox Transfer external with a Wolftooth Lever and I will never go back. I had the A1 1st generation Reverb though. I guess they made a lot of improvements on the A2 and B1.


The one I have a deal on is the latest version. So it is much much cheaper with the deal I have vs the Fox or Thomson.

I Cycle so I don't choke people!

Sent from the Beer Cloud


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## LaXCarp (Jul 19, 2008)

muddydc said:


> LaXCarp,
> I had a similar problem a few different times on my A1 and found that the inner seal head can come loose which unseats the air chamber O ring and causes an air leak. I did a partial rebuild using the full kit. The A1 had a lot of problems with leaks and bushings wearing fast. If you do a rebuild make sure to use loctite on seal head threads after cleaning it with alcohol well. You need a soft vise clamp to hold the post and inner shaft to tighten parts. Check on Youtube and Google for info on rebuilding. Another common problem on the Reverb but it doesn't sound like yours is the actuator button hydraulic line gets air in it and has to be bled. Before you take it apart you might contact RockShox and tell them the problems you're having. I had a seal leakage and broken damper on a RockShox Revelation fork a few years back. They paided for an authorized bike shop to repair my fork and even upgraded the damper on it. The fork was even out of the warranty time.


Is there a way I can rebuild w/o having to do any setting of oil heights, internal bleeds, etc? i.e. Can I just take the post apart, reattach the inner seal head/o-ring and reassemble and be on my way? I don't mind bleeding the remote if needed just don't have the other tools right now.


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## muddydc (Feb 26, 2004)

LaXCarp said:


> Is there a way I can rebuild w/o having to do any setting of oil heights, internal bleeds, etc? i.e. Can I just take the post apart, reattach the inner seal head/o-ring and reassemble and be on my way? I don't mind bleeding the remote if needed just don't have the other tools right now.


Yes you can. I would try bleeding it first and see if that fixes it. If not Keep the post inverted when you remove the inner seal head from the air cylinder and the inner shaft. Do not remove the inner shaft. The fluid is below the piston inside the air cylinder at the end of the inner shaft. Replace bushing if needed and o ring on the inner seal head and reinstall. Put some loctite on the inner seal head threads but make sure not to get any on the o ring. Tighten the seal head down firmly hand tight. You will have to use a soft jaw clamp in the vise that has circular cutouts the diameter of the airshaft. Also one is needed for removing and reinstalled the valve stem piece on the end of the inner shaft. Here some info I used when I did mine:

RockShox Reverb rebuild (without Reverb bleed tools) - T3mppu.kapsi.fi






Correction: when I stated to tighten seal head hand tight I meant for you to use a wrench and tighten.


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## LaXCarp (Jul 19, 2008)

muddydc said:


> Yes you can. I would try bleeding it first and see if that fixes it. If not Keep the post inverted when you remove the inner seal head from the air cylinder and the inner shaft. Do not remove the inner shaft. The fluid is below the piston inside the air cylinder at the end of the inner shaft. Replace bushing if needed and o ring on the inner seal head and reinstall. Put some loctite on the inner seal head threads but make sure not to get any on the o ring. Tighten the seal head down firmly hand tight. You will have to use a soft jaw clamp in the vise that has circular cutouts the diameter of the airshaft. Also one is needed for removing and reinstalled the valve stem piece on the end of the inner shaft. Here some info I used when I did mine:
> 
> RockShox Reverb rebuild (without Reverb bleed tools) - T3mppu.kapsi.fi
> 
> ...


I dont have any rebuild parts yet for the reverb but decided to start taking it apart last night. When I took the C-clip off the bottom and pulled the lower seal head the whole lower shaft fell out. It had become unthreaded from the inner seal head. I managed to "rethread" the shaft back on, but it never reached a point of being tight. I assume this is because it just spinning another component of the post as opposed to actually being reconnected...maybe it just caught a couple threads.

Anyways, out of curiosity I reassembled the post like this, and it is once again functional. So my question...do you think this actually threaded on sufficiently? If not, is there anyway to get it threaded sufficiently w/o further disassembling? I'd rather not have to full rebuild if I dont have to.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

TeamRWB said:


> Man I am really torn on getting this post. I have a very good deal on one new for less than 200 bucks. Or should I just bite the bullet and buy a Fox or Thomson? I can only run external so I'm very limited on options.
> 
> I Cycle so I don't choke people!
> 
> Sent from the Beer Cloud


I've had two external A2's (sold one) and have never had issues with them. The one I didn't sell is from 2013. I recently picked up a stealth B1. If I need another dropper and can find a good deal on a Reverb...I wouldn't hesitate to get another one.


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## muddydc (Feb 26, 2004)

LaXCarp said:


> I dont have any rebuild parts yet for the reverb but decided to start taking it apart last night. When I took the C-clip off the bottom and pulled the lower seal head the whole lower shaft fell out. It had become unthreaded from the inner seal head. I managed to "rethread" the shaft back on, but it never reached a point of being tight. I assume this is because it just spinning another component of the post as opposed to actually being reconnected...maybe it just caught a couple threads.
> 
> Anyways, out of curiosity I reassembled the post like this, and it is once again functional. So my question...do you think this actually threaded on sufficiently? If not, is there anyway to get it threaded sufficiently w/o further disassembling? I'd rather not have to full rebuild if I dont have to.


You could try riding with it and if the post has problems again you will have to remove the inner shaft and tighten the piston that threads into the upper end. I would apply some blue loctite to the threads first. In order to get to it you will need to remove the post outer tube and the internal seal head. If you keep the post inverted when you remove seal head and inner shaft the fluid will stay inside and not spill out. Tighten, reinstall inner shaft and seal head. Once you get it all back together actuate the button and cycle the post a few times. I was able to put mine all back together like this without having to set the fluid and IFP level..

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## LaXCarp (Jul 19, 2008)

Thanks for all of your insight muddy!


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## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

LaXCarp said:


> I dont have any rebuild parts yet for the reverb but decided to start taking it apart last night.


OK, this was probably not a good idea. Unfortunately, the horse is out of the barn so to speak.

I'd personally not ride on it at this point. Throw a regular seat post on there and have a LBS that is familiar with the post to rebuild.

I am still trying to figure out exactly how/what you did. If you removed the post from the bike and disconnected the remote hose from the post (as well as the seat), and then flipped upside down and removed the circ clip [this is where I am not sure what you did] but I gather you then pulled the hose connector part out of the bottom of the lower post. If that is what happened, that is bad.

Without the proper tools to hold the upper post, you can't then remove the poppet valve base plate, or the seat post top cap.

Really, you should get the tools or have a shop do the work. Half assing it is likely going to get you into trouble.


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## LaXCarp (Jul 19, 2008)

Jetta2010 said:


> OK, this was probably not a good idea. Unfortunately, the horse is out of the barn so to speak.
> 
> I'd personally not ride on it at this point. Throw a regular seat post on there and have a LBS that is familiar with the post to rebuild.
> 
> ...


aahh...you're way off base dude. Where did I talk about removing the hose? I have an A1, not a stealth. muddydc responded accordingly and accurately. I'm not half assing anything, im well versed in complete suspension rebuilds, just havent yet torn down a reverb.

I rode it tonight with no issues, I'm just worried about the inner shaft unthreading again because I wasnt sure how much of the threads actually caught.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

Quick question... the bushing top cap (with seal)... do they work for all versions of the reverb? Or is are there specific A1/A2 and B1 models?


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## muddydc (Feb 26, 2004)

Christopher Robin said:


> Quick question... the bushing top cap (with seal)... do they work for all versions of the reverb? Or is are there specific A1/A2 and B1 models?


From the Rockshox spare parts catalogue

https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...ult/files/techdocs/2018_rockshox_spc_revb.pdf

it looks like it is the same part number for all 3 post. (11.6818.030.000) My A1 originally had a Silver top cap but the new one I replaced it with was anodized black.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

Perfect. I saw that parts catalog after I posted this up.... Thanks for confirming it.


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## Dropper (Mar 1, 2018)

Son's bike has reverb B.1 - post has been in uses since bought new in Dec 16 so 15 months of use. I have had my Bike Yoke and wifes bike yoke for 6 months really no issues other than I swapped my cable out on mine had a weird stretch affecting the action. Not a bike yoke issue at all. 

So the reverb started acting up 3 weeks ago. Seat wont come up unless manually helped. Will stay up until you sit on it then eventually sags down a 10 mm at a time until bottom out.

I already replaced it with a bike yoke revive after hearing the stories and didnt have time to dick with it. Now that its off is it work repairing and running a WT Sustain cable remote on another bike? or do i just cut my losses. Does this sound like remote or internal issue?

any help appreciated


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## muddydc (Feb 26, 2004)

Dropper said:


> Son's bike has reverb B.1 - post has been in uses since bought new in Dec 16 so 15 months of use. I have had my Bike Yoke and wifes bike yoke for 6 months really no issues other than I swapped my cable out on mine had a weird stretch affecting the action. Not a bike yoke issue at all.
> 
> So the reverb started acting up 3 weeks ago. Seat wont come up unless manually helped. Will stay up until you sit on it then eventually sags down a 10 mm at a time until bottom out.
> 
> ...


Dropper, it could be a number of things internally. Did you check the air pressure and also for air leaks? I'm not sure the max pressure on the B1 but my A1 is 250 psi. You use a shock pump to air it. Once aired check for leaks using soapy water solution sprayed on areas that are sealed around the post. Bubbling shows leaks. You might have an internal leak. It could also be the line needs bleeding. Check the pressure and leaks 1st and then bleed the line if you think you could do it. You will need a bleed kit. RockShox has some good videos on bleeding and servicing the Reverb on their site and YouTube. Other videos on YouTube as well about bleeding if you do a search. You could contact RockShox and ask them if they could take care of it. They have been known to fix products or pay for a certified shop to fix it even if out of warranty.


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## Dropper (Mar 1, 2018)

Ok thanks for the direction will look into all of those details. 


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## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

LaXCarp said:


> aahh...you're way off base dude. Where did I talk about removing the hose? I have an A1, not a stealth. muddydc responded accordingly and accurately. I'm not half assing anything, im well versed in complete suspension rebuilds, just havent yet torn down a reverb.
> 
> I rode it tonight with no issues, I'm just worried about the inner shaft unthreading again because I wasnt sure how much of the threads actually caught.


A1 doesn't really change the fact that you did not follow any accepted method for disassembling your dropper. The fact you didn't even bother disconnecting the remote hose just further supports this. You, by your own admission said you went into it without the proper tools. You then ask for help and get buthurt b/c I acknowledge these facts. As you are an expert with suspension work I'm sure you'll figure it out on your own.


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## LaXCarp (Jul 19, 2008)

Jetta2010 said:


> A1 doesn't really change the fact that you did not follow any accepted method for disassembling your dropper. The fact you didn't even bother disconnecting the remote hose just further supports this. You, by your own admission said you went into it without the proper tools. You then ask for help and get buthurt b/c I acknowledge these facts. As you are an expert with suspension work I'm sure you'll figure it out on your own.


Dude give it up, you obviously did not read my situation from the beginning or comprehend the content in my posts. Let me walk you through it:
1. Thought my post needed full rebuild, ordered all the parts. 
2. Parts were going to take a while to come, so I watched the sram service videos multiple times. Figure I mine as well start dissambling to a point where I have to stop until the proper parts arrive. 
3. Remove the c-clip from the bottom of the post, which is literally the first step sram recommends in their service video. 
4. Push down the upper tube, into the lower tube to release the lower seal head. Literally step 2 in the service video. 
5. The whole lower shaft pops off from the post because it had become unthreaded from th internal seal head.
6. Re thread the lower shaft into the inner seal head
7. Reassemble the dropper
8. Ask muddy for advice if the lower shaft is likely to be re threaded sufficiently
9. Ride it 3 times with no issues.


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## TeamRWB (Feb 19, 2014)

RS VR6 said:


> I've had two external A2's (sold one) and have never had issues with them. The one I didn't sell is from 2013. I recently picked up a stealth B1. If I need another dropper and can find a good deal on a Reverb...I wouldn't hesitate to get another one.


Thanks for the insight. Had it installed since I got an amazing deal and was at friends shop. Worse case, he takes care of it or warranty.

I Cycle so I don't choke people!

Sent from the Beer Cloud


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## jnashed (Sep 12, 2016)

So my hydraulic cable to the remote broke yesterday while biking. (hard stop and my hand came off the handle bar and must have caught the cable and it broke the connector piece of the nipple attachment) Post is up almost all the way. I had planned to replace the remote with a Wolf tooth anyway. So no big deal. Question is how do I and do I need to make sure the post is fully extended before I do the swap to the Sustain remote?


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

No. It doesn't matter where the post is when you install a remote. However, if you want to fully extend the post to be able to ride, cut the hose near the remote, stick the end going to the dropper into a presta bike pump and gradually start to pump. The post will pop up. You may need to hold the hose in the chuck so it doesn't slip out.


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## stonant (Mar 11, 2016)

I’m about to fly my bike for a vacation, I imagine I should deflate my reverb so the pressure doesn’t exceed 150psi while in the air?


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## seamarsh (Mar 5, 2012)

stonant said:


> I'm about to fly my bike for a vacation, I imagine I should deflate my reverb so the pressure doesn't exceed 150psi while in the air?


Planes are pressurized, even in cargo area. Not necessary.


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## caspar (Feb 2, 2004)

seamarsh said:


> Planes are pressurized, even in cargo area. Not necessary.


I never deflate mine , nor my fork and tires , just say yes when they ask u at checkin if u have deflated tires 🙃


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## stonant (Mar 11, 2016)

Good to know about the cargo area being pressurized. Should I deflate post because I’m going from sea level to altitude though? I’d imagine I should let most/all the air out to be on the safe side. Going to end up in Breckenridge CO


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

stonant said:


> Good to know about the cargo area being pressurized. Should I deflate post because I'm going from sea level to altitude though? I'd imagine I should let most/all the air out to be on the safe side. Going to end up in Breckenridge CO


You do not need to touch it at all.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Air pressure at sea level is 15 psi. In space, it's zero. If your tires are inflated to 30 psi at sea level, they'd be 45 psi in space. Pretty much the same for seat posts etc.. Atmospheric pressure at 10,000' feet is about 10 psi, so if you inflate something at sea level, it will have effectively 5 more psi at 10,000'. 5 more psi won't blow up your tires, seat post or fork, but it is enough to effect the performance of the tires and fork.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

What are you guys doing to your Reverbs? I have had 4. I currently own 3, all of which have had the **** beaten out of them. No issues. No ****.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I've had three of them, two A2's and now a B1. Oldest one is from 2013. Haven't had much time on the B1...but the older A2's never gave me any problems. No rebuilds either.


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## bigolclyde (Aug 1, 2011)

Hoping someone can help:

I am servicing a Reverb for a friend, and the IFP is stuck at the very top of the upper post, so that I can't get zip ties behind it to remove it. I've also tried a spoke to move it but there's not enough space behind the IFP to pull it at all. I have also tried attaching a pump to move it (per this article https://nsmb.com/articles/sram-reverb-stealth-b1/ and this blurb on pinkbike https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=194650&pagenum=1#commentid6628134) using air pressure but that doesn't seem to move the IFP at all either.

Short of using some threaded rod to try to grab the IFP at the risk of scratching the internal upper post, I'm at a loss. Any tips on removal of a super deep stuck IFP?? Thanks!!


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## niva1989 (May 8, 2014)

bigolclyde said:


> Hoping someone can help:
> 
> I am servicing a Reverb for a friend, and the IFP is stuck at the very top of the upper post, so that I can't get zip ties behind it to remove it. I've also tried a spoke to move it but there's not enough space behind the IFP to pull it at all. I have also tried attaching a pump to move it (per this article https://nsmb.com/articles/sram-reverb-stealth-b1/ and this blurb on pinkbike https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=194650&pagenum=1#commentid6628134) using air pressure but that doesn't seem to move the IFP at all either.
> 
> Short of using some threaded rod to try to grab the IFP at the risk of scratching the internal upper post, I'm at a loss. Any tips on removal of a super deep stuck IFP?? Thanks!!


Did you try putting your thumb over the inner tube while pumping to force the air into the out chamber where the ifp is?


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## bigolclyde (Aug 1, 2011)

I ended up threading the internal seal head on part way then plugging that hole with my thumb. Pumped the post up to 250 and pop, IFP shot up to the top (really bottom I guess) of the upper post where I removed it with zip ties! I think maybe my thumb wasn't fully sealing the upper post.


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## zerolight (Sep 8, 2010)

Just fitted a 1x to mine. I'd shortened the cable and needed a bleed so I thought why not. Part way through I was thinking why?!!

That bleed process was a nightmare. Everything up to bleeding the lever was quick and easy. Bleeding the lever through bleeding edge - grrr. 

Took me about 90 mins and a puddle of fluid on the floor before I figured out the technique. All sorted and smashing now. But that took way longer than anticipated.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

That Bleeding Edge system works pretty well once you get it figured out.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

The Bleeding Edge adapter worked great for my initial install of the 1x lever. Took me about 30-40 mins with no mess.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

How difficult is the B1 IFP upgrade for the A2 posts? 

I've done a rebuild on an A1 post with relative success, so cracking one open doesn't bother me. I've got strap wrench and suspension vice covers.


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## bigolclyde (Aug 1, 2011)

PHeller said:


> How difficult is the B1 IFP upgrade for the A2 posts?
> 
> I've done a rebuild on an A1 post with relative success, so cracking one open doesn't bother me. I've got strap wrench and suspension vice covers.


No different than a full service, just a different IFP design, so if you can already service you should be golden.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

bigolclyde said:


> No different than a full service, just a different IFP design, so if you already can service you should be golden.


if I remember correctly the full service requires the IFP Depth Tool, correct?


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## bigolclyde (Aug 1, 2011)

PHeller said:


> if I remember correctly the full service requires the IFP Depth Tool, correct?


Yes. I am sure there are other solutions but I bought the tool.


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## bigolclyde (Aug 1, 2011)

Make sure to check the new IFP heights in the latest service PDF though. The marks on the tool may not be correct for your particular post.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Have there been any other improvements or discoveries made in terms of slightly larger seals, different seal materials, etc that might make an A1/A2 last longer between service intervals?


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## Hillridge (Jan 22, 2010)

This is probably well known at this point, but this thread has a key piece of advice regarding the inner sealhead: https://www.pinkbike.com/u/PHeller/blog/reverb-basic-rebuild.html

The majority of the failures I have experienced with the A1/A2 rev posts (I think both of mine are A1) have been due to this stupid seal head unthreading itself and the o-ring bulging and subsequently leaking.









The last time I rebuilt it, I carefully cleaned the threads on both the post and seal head with IPA, soaked it in blue locktite, and cranked it as tight as I could without stripping anything. So far so good, but who knows how long until it works its way out again.

I did learn last time that if this failure happens, it's possible to fix the resulting sag without a full teardown, bleed and rebuild, I didn't even have to take the seat off! You will need the IFP height tool, or something similar though.


Drop the post slightly to get the IFP midway through its travel
Tear things down to the point where the post is upside down and the piston has been removed
Use the IFP tool to reset the IFP height
top off the oil in the piston tube. You can't fill it because it has little holes near the end, so you just need enough to have it come out these holes.
Put the piston back in just enough to block those holes. You may have to hold the actuation lever down to let a tiny bit of oil flow and move the IFP slightly
Dump out any oil that has overflowed, then put everything back together making sure to clean and loctite that stupid seal head
Go ride until it breaks again


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Haha using my own summary of information against me! 

I was hoping to update that document with newer info or better descriptions. Hillridge, I added your "sag fix" to that document.

I know that the last time I rebuilt my A1 Reverb I put locktight (or maybe I just went crazy on tightening it, dont remember) on the seal head threads and it held together for awhile, maybe a year or more until a trip to Moab when it failed and by that point I was so disappointed with the post I just sold it. 

I was hoping someone found some new ways of making the post more reliable with the addition of B1 parts.


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## Hillridge (Jan 22, 2010)

Lol I didn't even notice it was your post! I'm going to try that key upgrade the next time this thing is apart, great idea!

Maybe I will look into the B1 parts and see if they can be added to the A series, but gut feeling is that other than the upgraded IFP, which is known to swap in, they won't mix. 

Our sag fixes both solve the same problem by opening opposite ends of the oil chamber and topping it off. My way requires more disassembly of the post itself and an IFP height tool, but you don't have to take the seat off or bleed the system afterward. Yours requires a bleed kit and technically an oil height tool (you explain it well enough to avoid that), and you have to bleed it afterward, but you don't have to disassemble the whole lower half. 

Of course, if it's sagged from that stupid seal head unthreading, you're going to have to pull the lowers apart anyway.

It's like a choose your own adventure for whatever way you personally find less of a hassle!


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

I'm curious how much of this stuff changes with the addition (or removal) of the hydraulic remote. If I get back into a Reverb it'll be with a Wolftooth Sustain.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^^^ the hydro remote and seatpost internals are two basically unrelated systems. A cable remote actuates the same drop valve in the post that the hydro remote activates. Any problems within the post like squishiness, self unscrewing seal head, bad IFP etc will remain unaffected. 

Personally, I think the hydro remote is kinda ridiculous with cable remotes being a more optimal solution for droppers.


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## Hillridge (Jan 22, 2010)

I would rather have a cable actuated one, but I haven't looked at new droppers yet because I want one with 150-175mm of travel, and there aren't a lot of options for externally routed posts. I'd rather stick with the Reverb that I have a very good understanding of, and can fix in under an hour than buy another 125mm post.


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## bigolclyde (Aug 1, 2011)

PHeller said:


> Haha using my own summary of information against me!
> 
> I was hoping to update that document with newer info or better descriptions. Hillridge, I added your "sag fix" to that document.
> 
> ...


The only change in parts would be the new IFP. I don't think you can use a B1 parts kit to rebuild the A1/A2.

The sealhead design on a B1 post is different as the o-ring is below the threads, so you don't have to be so careful not to pinch it out when threading the sealhead on, but I don't think it will fit an A1/A2. I guess you could buy a B1 sealhead and try?


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

bigolclyde said:


> The only change in parts would be the new IFP. I don't think you can use a B1 parts kit to rebuild the A1/A2.
> 
> The sealhead design on a B1 post is different as the o-ring is below the threads, so you don't have to be so careful not to pinch it out when threading the sealhead on, but I don't think it will fit an A1/A2. I guess you could buy a B1 sealhead and try?


Good info. I may look into that.


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## Tronner (Dec 13, 2012)

*Wolftooth remote install - got a bit of air in the main post body*

I installed the Wolftooth Sustain 1x remote this week on a brand new Reverb Stealth B version. When I did so, I think I mistakenly pulled out the bleed allen screw on the actual post body (the one in the attached picture). Once I got everything back together the seat post drops about 1/2" or so when I sit on it.

Anyone else who's installed the Wolftooth system have this issue or know an easy way to bleed JUST the post body itself? That piece in the picture and the black barrel below it come out with the install of the wolftooth. Could I put it back on and somehow bleed it using that port and the air / oil port at the top of the post? I think the internals / seals, etc are all good. Basically I need to bleed just the post itself and not the full system with cable, housing, etc.


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## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

I've not installed WT before but from what I can tell, you remove/replace the silver hose connector anyway so it doesn't matter if you accidentally removed the bleed screw on that part. The internal hydraulic/pneumatic circuits should not be affected at all by the actuator part of the system.


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## lynchman (Jul 16, 2018)

I also installed the wolf tooth remote after breaking the reverb remote barb. The install is simple after the first time you do it. My problem is the post is now working in reverse! Yep, the post moves up/down until the lever is PRESSED,then it will lock solid , untll you let out the lever, THE POST MOVES AGAIN. I left an email with wolf tooth but havnt heard back. I'm at a loss to understand whats going on. Any thoughts?


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## Tronner (Dec 13, 2012)

Yeah that's what I'm gathering from the LBS. I don't know if it worked before I did the WT install or not because I did it straight out of the box. I may just find a 150 on craigslist and put that in, then service this one and sell it.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

lynchman said:


> I also installed the wolf tooth remote after breaking the reverb remote barb. The install is simple after the first time you do it. My problem is the post is now working in reverse! Yep, the post moves up/down until the lever is PRESSED,then it will lock solid , untll you let out the lever, THE POST MOVES AGAIN. I left an email with wolf tooth but havnt heard back. I'm at a loss to understand whats going on. Any thoughts?


Sounds strange. I don't know if this is related to your problem, but I know the Wolftooth remote relies on the housing moving up and down to actuate the post so there must be enough slack in the housing below the post in order to do that. There is a description of this somewhere in the mtbr forums, maybe in this thread.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Newish Reverb with only a season of riding sparingly, it sags on full extension and when lowered to the max, it’ll raise itself up fully with a few days. Fix?


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## Neogen (Apr 23, 2016)

eurospek said:


> Newish Reverb with only a season of riding sparingly, it sags on full extension and when lowered to the max, it'll raise itself up fully with a few days. Fix?


New with 1x remote? Thought thats going to be a better build.. Reverb is really pathetic.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^^^ could be an installation problem, like poor bleed or leaking hose connections. Of course you wont' run into these problems with a cable remote, though you might run into other probs.


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## Truevine77 (Sep 16, 2009)

I have a medium 120mm xc fs 29er bike. According to their sizing chart I was right on the cusp of medium and large. I'm 5'11" with a 32" inseam. It came with a 350mm post. Even at a half inch over the maximum extension line I'm not high enough for my normal xc pedaling position. I have the chance to buy a 170mm Reverb stealth b1. Would that be too long for me or could I make it work? It's my first dropper post.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/help-destroying-reverb-1089027.html


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

I have 2 Reverb stealth posts that need to be rebuild. The dates on the posts are 2012 and the other is 2013. Where is the best place to get the full build kits. Any other tools to recommend for someone trying to rebuild for the first time. I'm in Canada by the way.


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## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

https://www.jensonusa.com/Rockshox-Reverb-Stealth-Service-Kit

make sure of your version. this one is for the B1


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## bigolclyde (Aug 1, 2011)

For tools, round up all the tools from the Reverb service PDF. The vice grips (brass rockshox, park tool, and flat softjaw aluminum) are definitely needed, plus reverb IFP tool. You'll need a bunch of crowfoots too.

It's all in the PDF.


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## TheRed (Jan 25, 2011)

What size o-ring do I need for the Reverb bleeding edge tool, I have damaged mine.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

bigolclyde said:


> For tools, round up all the tools from the Reverb service PDF. The vice grips (brass rockshox, park tool, and flat softjaw aluminum) are definitely needed, plus reverb IFP tool. You'll need a bunch of crowfoots too.
> 
> It's all in the PDF.


Thanks now that winter is here. I want something to work on lol. Cheaply as possible.
I'm going to try and make some bushings for the top and bottom of the post. I also have a list of all the o rings sizes used in the post.


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## TheRed (Jan 25, 2011)

TheRed said:


> What size o-ring do I need for the Reverb bleeding edge tool, I have damaged mine.


It's 4mm internal dia x 1.5mm cross section to anybody that needs it in future


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## romphaia (Sep 7, 2014)

Has anybody experimented with alternative oils to deal with low temperatures? There's Red Line LikeWater at ~5 cSt versus the 10 of the 2.5 rockshox oil getting it is a problem for me. I was thinking about radiator antifreeze, metalworking water miscible coolant or a combination of the two. Yes I'm a fool.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

Does anyone know if the Reverb Basic Service Kit comes with u cup seal. I think i heard it just uses a O ring instead.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

caRpetbomBer said:


> Does anyone know if the Reverb Basic Service Kit comes with u cup seal. I think i heard it just uses a O ring instead.


It comes with an O-ring as its really for the standard reverb, not the stealth. I believe they haven discontinued it.


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## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

did the 50 Hr svc on my B1 over the weekend. Not too bad but did have to run and get a 12-in adjustable wrench to remove the top cap. Got lucky and my connectamajig (who the hell comes up with these names?) actually worked as designed this time saving me from having to do bleed on the remote. I don't have crow's feet/torque wrench so just made everything good and tight. Hopefully it all stays together next season.


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## Rmabus (Jun 12, 2012)

Anyone experimented with how to get the push button remote to be more ergonomically setup. I live in Dallas, and I found that I use my dropper less than normal because I really have a hard time moving my left thumb up to the button. I have it on then left side with a XT brake and the barrel adjuster on my button hits the brake lever housing some. I realized this as I just put a Fall Line on my XC bike with a 1x lever and I find it is much easier to reach than this reverb. FWIW, have it flipped to be on the left hand side.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

There are two push button remotes, L and R. Each has the button on top of the bars when mounted on their respective sides. If you mount them on the other sides, the buttons are under the bars. With a typical 1X setup, mounting the R remote on the left side moves the button under the bar and is easier to use. However, with 1X, probably the best solution is to get a 1X paddle type remote, which is ~$100 plus installation.


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## Rmabus (Jun 12, 2012)

Lone Rager.  I am definitely running right side flipped. To be honest, spending another 100 is understandable but with the performance of these posts, I would rather go to a cable actuated option and start over.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

It sounds like you're fully apprised of the options. In your post above you mention the remote hitting the brake which sounds like you'd like to rotate the remote to get the button lower or more horizontal. The only suggestion I have would be to run the brakes with the levers less drooped. It's common to droop the levers so they are in line with your forearms in the attack position, perhaps 45 or more deg, and this is OK. But I find it better to run them flatter, ~30 deg, as this aligns better seated or hanging off the back of the bike while descending when I'm using the brakes more.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I also tried getting my push button remote to be a bit easier to reach...but to no avail. I have small hands and would have to move my hand in for my thumb to reach the button. I found a pretty killer deal on eBay for a 1x lever. After swapping levers...I found myself using the dropper so much more since the lever is much easier to use. 

The good thing about the 1x lever is...that you can sell it whenever you decide to get rid of your Reverb. Depending on the deal you score...you should be able to recoup most of your money.


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## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

RS VR6 said:


> The Bleeding Edge adapter worked great for my initial install of the 1x lever. Took me about 30-40 mins with no mess.


How do you get the bleeding edge adapter to stop leaking fluid or leaking air into the system when pumping the remote lever?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

The adapter should just pop in. You can feel it when it when it does. You also need to make sure that the o-ring on the tip of the tool isn't bulging out. Once its seated...then you can open the valve.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^^^ yeah. Sounds like it's not inserted far enough. It clicks into place and takes some effort to pull out. It's worked well for me on the so-equipped brake calipers too...the DOT specific one with 4 wings.


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## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

RS VR6 said:


> The adapter should just pop in. You can feel it when it when it does. You also need to make sure that the o-ring on the tip of the tool isn't bulging out. Once its seated...then you can open the valve.





Lone Rager said:


> ^^^ yeah. Sounds like it's not inserted far enough. It clicks into place and takes some effort to pull out. It's worked well for me on the so-equipped brake calipers too...the DOT specific one with 4 wings.


Thank you. I will check and see if I am clicking it into place. Don't remember an audible click. I have used the bleeding edge tool for guide brakes and I'm familiar with the "click in" that one has.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Ya...you should be able to feel it pop into the socket.


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## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

Well it does pop in but still leaks like a sieve. Both oil out and air in. I wonder if my little o-ring on the bleed tool is damaged. Does that pic look normal?

The only way i can bleed the remote is by pushing down on the wings of the tip with a good amount of force. The bleeds work well for a few days then after a week, air enters the system and the post starts to move at about half speed (this is with speed adjust at full fast the entire time). I think the hose to remote barb connection is not great.

Any advice ?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

As long as its seated in properly...it should work. Double check that the o-ring isn't bulging in one direction. Make sure that there isn't any air in the syringe. A bad o-ring could be a possibility. 

As a last resort...you can always try a bike shop. When you go to that bike shop...make sure that they have the same tool before you drop it off...or else they won't be able to bleed the post.


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## mapomac (Aug 21, 2017)

Rick Draper said:


> You need to strip the post down, undo the head off the stanchion, clean it throughly to ensure its clean of oil and grease then re-install the top cap using read loctite on the threads.


Is it bolted with a proper thread ?
Not just pressed in ?


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## mxmeac (Apr 11, 2019)

I have rockshox that are leaking oil. Not sure what kit to buy. They are rockshox 30 silver solo air.
I have the tapered steerer. Not sure if I should rebuild or replace. If I replace them I could get the non tapered forks and a reducer. That's the cheaper option. Please help!


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## mapomac (Aug 21, 2017)

I'm trying to figure out from where my rotational play is coming from.
(or just accept that is normal)

I've already did a service replacing the top cap and fitted bigger brass keys, but nothing seems to have changed; the rotational play is on the saddle shaft, not a big amount but can't understand what leads to it, since the new brass keys, bigger ones, actually fitted harder in the tube.

Also, during a fall of the bike, i found the saddle slightly rotated; the saddle clamps rotated over the shaft; It doesn't seems to be threaded.

Any experience ?
Thanks


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

A degree or two of rotational play is normal for most all droppers and certainly for Reverbs. It helps ensure the post moves freely. If you can't feel it riding, it's probably fine.

If you do have excessive play and want to reduce it, you can replace those three pins 6,15 with slightly larger diameter ones. They come in various diameters indicated by the number of grooves in the end of the pin.


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## mapomac (Aug 21, 2017)

That's what I did. My original keys was size 4, and I took the two bigger size.
One made the shaft almost impossibile to push it in, and the other one, was fine.

Play is almost like before the service anyway.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^^^ I should have read your post more carefully. I had a post warrantied when the saddle clamp started rotating on top of the stanchion. I believe it's bonded and am not sure how or if it's repairable.


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## mpress (Jan 30, 2012)

Has anybody experienced a defective 1x lever? I've bled mine multiple times. The post comes up reliably, but its much slower than the same setup on two other bikes I have. It feels like the lever doesn't have the same travel as my other two.


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## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

Mine leaked pretty good until I took it apart and manually installed the threaded barb into the line with a small torx bit (T10, I think) with a very small amount of grease on the threads. Simply threading the assembled remote onto the hydraulic line without disassembling it resulted in my either under or over tightening it. Seems to work well now.


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## czm (Apr 12, 2019)

HI all 
I have a Canyon Spectral cf 9.0 sl 2018 which as the ROCKSHOX Reverb Stealth dropper.

It is a Medium Frame and the dropper is 150mm I think, when it is fully up it feels a tiny but stretched when peddling- I have it at its lowest point in the frame. If I wanted to swap it over to something a bit shorter should I be taking note of the travel measurement and/or post length on the Rockshox website here:

https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/models/sp-rvb-s-c1

I know it may seem a silly question but can't get my head around it?


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## Mark K (Jul 4, 2018)

I’m looking at the new c1 model and I’m not certain if it uses a new fluid. I have the b1 version with the bleed kit/fluid and was hoping to use the b1 bleed kit. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Mark K (Jul 4, 2018)

Bump. 

My post is coming in tomorrow and would love to get it installed. 

Anyone install a c1?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Last Reverb I got (not C1) came with the bleed stuff for the remote. If a X1 lever you need the special Reverb bleeding edge connector at the remote.


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## Mark K (Jul 4, 2018)

Lone Rager said:


> Last Reverb I got (not C1) came with the bleed stuff for the remote. If a X1 lever you need the special Reverb bleeding edge connector at the remote.


I have it thanks.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## CMinSC (Jul 26, 2019)

Reverb simple preventative maintenance

Down at the bottom of this NSMB article they say it's possible to re-lube the Reverb upper tube in under 3 minutes without taking the post off of the bike.

https://nsmb.com/articles/sram-reverb-stealth-b1/

I think what they are talking about is just removing the top cap and then greasing the upper tube without pulling it all the way out. They say "remove the seal head" but that doesn't agree with the rest of the post. Has anyone ever done this? Seems like it could be done with the post inserted as long as you take the remote off and feed the hose through as you pull it up.


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

Curious if anybody has had this happen or can help me diagnose this problem w/ my Stealth Reverb:

Suddenly it has become very difficult to push in the plunger (old style) on the remote, and then when I do finally push it in, it is extremely slow to return despite being set on fastest speed. The post still works fine as far as moving up and down when the lever is actually pushed in, but I have to wait a while for it return before it stays in position. I bled it and checked the air pressure, but still has exact same issue. While I was bleeding, I noticed that it was very difficult to push the fluid through in either direction.

I'm thinking that maybe the hose barb or other component is damaged and not letting the fluid easily flow? Any ideas? Thanks!


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## kpdemello (May 3, 2010)

CMinSC said:


> Reverb simple preventative maintenance
> 
> Down at the bottom of this NSMB article they say it's possible to re-lube the Reverb upper tube in under 3 minutes without taking the post off of the bike.
> 
> ...


Yes I did it today. It is of limited utility because the parts that make contact with the inner shaft can't be exposed and cleaned this way, but it does allow you to clean/grease the wiper seal a bit and potentially get some gunk out.

My experience was that I only managed to move the gunk around, then had to remove the dropper and disassemble it a bit to really get it cleaned.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## kpdemello (May 3, 2010)

Speaking of which, I didn't have 2.5 wt oil so I used some 7.5 weight suspension oil that I had on hand to refill the reverb. It seems to work fine now, but does anyone think there will be an issue with that long term? Will the heavier weight oil degrade components or seals faster? Everything in there seemed pretty pristine, and the post seems to function just fine.


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## sturge (Feb 22, 2009)

As long as it's a similar 'type' of oil, a different viscosity shouldn't be a problem to soft parts/seals. Various types of oil come in different viscosity's so you can fine tune what works best for your situation (like what temperatures you ride in, rider weight, etc). Mixing types of oils (DOT vs Suspension for example) is where issues with seal compatibility can become a problem.


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## Sender420shred (Oct 22, 2017)

skyno said:


> Curious if anybody has had this happen or can help me diagnose this problem w/ my Stealth Reverb:
> 
> Suddenly it has become very difficult to push in the plunger (old style) on the remote, and then when I do finally push it in, it is extremely slow to return despite being set on fastest speed. The post still works fine as far as moving up and down when the lever is actually pushed in, but I have to wait a while for it return before it stays in position. I bled it and checked the air pressure, but still has exact same issue. While I was bleeding, I noticed that it was very difficult to push the fluid through in either direction.
> 
> I'm thinking that maybe the hose barb or other component is damaged and not letting the fluid easily flow? Any ideas? Thanks!


Check the oring that is in the remote plunger. I just had a similar issue, changed the $1.25 oring and it works like new

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

Sender420shred said:


> Check the oring that is in the remote plunger. I just had a similar issue, changed the $1.25 oring and it works like new
> 
> Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


Thanks for the suggestion - do you recall the size of the oring or where you were able to source it from?

Thanks!


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## fuzzymusketeer (May 22, 2019)

Problem: Reverb remote pushes in, stays in, and doesn't let post drop. Also, in the past I bleeded the system and it worked fine for about 10 tries. I brought it to the trail in moderate temps, the dropper worked once or twice, and then gets stuck down when I'm miles from the vehicle.

The first failure was last year in colder weather, and I have not got it working properly since. I have bled it on 5 different occasions after failure on the trail.

My seatpost clamp is torqued to spec, I believe I am following the correct bleeding procedure, and I am getting really tired of this failure.

Does it have to be serviced by RS? Should I sell it and get something other than this much talked about POS?


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

If the remote stays in and post won't actuate it a problem with the remote circuit, which is entirely independent of the rest of the post. It could be leaking but that should be evident at the remote or the bottom of the post if it is. To bleed a Stealth Reverb I pull the post, lay it horizontally on top of the rear tire and fasten it there with the bleed port pointing up using a toe strap (or similar). I have to feed the excess hose in at the front of the frame to allow this. If there isn't enough hose with the lever attached to the bar, I detach it. Before bleeding, ensure that the adjuster on the lever is fully slow. That's rotating the knob CCW on the plunger types or the T25 adjuster under the rubber cover on the X1 remotes. Fill the syringes 1/4 to 1/3 full and degas the fluid by covering the outlet and pulling a vacuum with the plunger. You'll see bubbles come out of solution. Keep the vacuum until the bubbles mostly rise and merge with any air in the syringe. Attach them to the bleed ports. I push fluid one way, then the other keeping both syringes upright. Orient the remote as appropriate to ensure you're getting any trapped air out. In preparation to remove the syringes, push the plunger at the syringe at the remote to pressurise the system and then release it. Remove the syringe at the post and some fluid should come out and fill the hole. The pointed bleed screw will displace the fluid in the hole when you install it leaving no air. Push the syringe at the remote again and release it just before removing it and installing the bleed screw for plunger remotes or turning the Bleeding Edge to seal the port on X1 remotes. Wipe the excess fluid off, put the post back in feeding the hose forward and put the remote back on the bars. Try it and adjust the speed control until you get the desired speed.


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## fuzzymusketeer (May 22, 2019)

Lone Ranger,

You description is exactly what I have done to bleed the system. Like I said, the dropper works fine a few times with no hesitation or give in the remote or bob in the post itself. Tonight I will bleed one last time, and if failure occurs again its up for grabs for anyone who wants it. Hell, I may even pay someone to take it off my hands


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## void_LV (Jan 21, 2006)

Have anyone else done IFP delete? Does it work fine long term?
Sure, Reverb doesn't have a bleed lever like BikeYoke Revive does but upside down actuation trick achieves the same thing, right?


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

void_LV said:


> Have anyone else done IFP delete? Does it work fine long term?
> Sure, Reverb doesn't have a bleed lever like BikeYoke Revive does but upside down actuation trick achieves the same thing, right?


I've found the upside down reset only works as a stopgap for short times (a few weeks or so) before the sag come back. Only way to completely fix it is with a service (or warranty if under 2 years). The reset function and easy serviceability is the reason that all of my bikes now have Bike Yoke droppers, either Revive or Devine.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

The new Rerverbs (rev C?) have a bleed valve on the post, similar to the Revive posts. They have some other improvements too, like much smoother action, but still have the silly hydro remote...unless you're going AXS.


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## Jonas-le-jumper (Jan 8, 2021)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Figured we should make a thread for all the thoughts and common issues from Reverb owners and for potential Reverb buyers. It'll also be a great place to post short, mid, and long term reviews of the post, as well as pictures of Reverb setups.
> 
> A lot of this information was pulled from the ajdustable seatpost thread. Thanks to BMJ and tscheezy for their contributions.
> 
> ...


Hi, not sure if this is the correct way to ask a question but I need an answer and I'm new to this site, basically I got a reverb second hand and the bleed port on the seat post had been stripped out by previous owner, so when I thread a syringe in there it's not a tight connection and when pulling/pushing the liquid through the system from one syringe to another (following GMBN instructions) that spot leaks air Into the system and it doesn't work. 1- can I buy A replacement part Individually or do they no sell those. 2- if there an alternate way to bleed it?
Thanks, jonas


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## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

Jonas-le-jumper said:


> Hi, not sure if this is the correct way to ask a question but I need an answer and I'm new to this site, basically I got a reverb second hand and the bleed port on the seat post had been stripped out by previous owner, so when I thread a syringe in there it's not a tight connection and when pulling/pushing the liquid through the system from one syringe to another (following GMBN instructions) that spot leaks air Into the system and it doesn't work. 1- can I buy A replacement part Individually or do they no sell those. 2- if there an alternate way to bleed it?
> Thanks, jonas


I know this thread is a few weeks old but if it were me, I would reach out to RS directly and see what they will do for you. Not sure what version of the post you have but be it the regular externally routed or stealth I don't think they sell those parts individually. you could also just convert it to cable actuated instead of hydraulic as lots of folks prefer the cable vs the hydraulic. I think wolftooth sells a nice cable actuated lever that you could throw on there. good luck


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

I have a Rockshox Reverb Stealth C1 with a 1x lever. Looking to replace my hose as it is kinked, anyone know which hose kit I need? Also which bleed kit I need? Thanks


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## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

parkp81 said:


> I have a Rockshox Reverb Stealth C1 with a 1x lever. Looking to replace my hose as it is kinked, anyone know which hose kit I need? Also which bleed kit I need? Thanks


do you have connectamajig fitting?


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## plusdespam (Mar 6, 2021)

Hello, I have to rebuild my A2 reverb (non stealth model, the one with external command). I' ve ordered a 400 hours kit and I must finish the job during this Week-end. I forgot to order the toll ROCKSHOX référence 00.6815.066.010 needed to adjust the oil level under the poppet valve. I have to make one by myself, I need to know the exact dimensions of the tool, ie diameters, lenghts of every sections. If someone owns this little cheap tool , please give the sizes of each part or publish a good photo with a ruler near the tool so I can build a spare tool quickly to finish my seat post..

Here is à photo of the tool.









Thanks.


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## b rock (Jan 5, 2017)

Has anyone seen a Reverb come stock with different size brass keys installed? I can't tell if I have 2 size 3 and 1 size 0, or if one of the keys is so worn that the size etching is just worn off (Stealth B1 w/ about 200 hours use)


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## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

They should all be same size


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## wg (Dec 20, 2003)

So, I've had two Reverb warranty replacements in two years. First was OEM as part of build kit April 2019. This was warrantied July 2020.. Post #2 dies in April and is in the shop now waiting for me to pick up. Do I: a) install and hope for for the best OR b) sell it and get a OneUp or PNW or? I'm leaning toward option b) but willing to listen.


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## TCW (Mar 13, 2006)

wg said:


> So, I've had two Reverb warranty replacements in two years. First was OEM as part of build kit April 2019. This was warrantied July 2020.. Post #2 dies in April and is in the shop now waiting for me to pick up. Do I: a) install and hope for for the best OR b) sell it and get a OneUp or PNW or? I'm leaning toward option b) but willing to listen.


Option B. I recently had the big rebuild done on my Reverb off my 2019 Tallboy CC. After the rebuild it was butter but after a month or so now it sags around an inch. My bike-shop mechanic contacted Rockshox and they said it needs to be serviced again. WTF? I just spent $120 to get it serviced! Of course I was hoping for a warranty replacement but no such luck. So, I too am going the Option B route. I was going to get a OneUp but can't find the 31.6mm version. I went ahead a ordered a Brand X. My wife runs one on her Tallboy with a Wolftooth lever and absolutely loves it. Her Reverb also had issues so the upgrade to the $125 dropper has been a massive improvement.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

So after about 4 years...my B1 Reverb started to develop the dreaded sag.

I came across this video while searching the sag. Lol...it actually worked. No more sag. I'll see how long this lasts.


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## Isildur (Nov 10, 2007)

RS VR6 said:


> I came across this video while searching the sag. Lol...it actually worked. No more sag. I'll see how long this lasts.


The last time I had a Reverb it lasted for years before it started sagging. I did a full service & IFP reset and that worked for another year or so. I then started using the upside-down reset as in the video, but I would only get a week or two at most before the sag came back.

Next post was Bike Yoke Revive, it's been flawless for 3 years ago. I've moved my entire fleet over as posts have died, so currently have 2x Revive and 2x Divine on the bikes in the shed!


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I'm just going to ride it out. The post is a few years old and I don't plan on rebuilding it. It's on a bike I don't ride too often. I have OneUp droppers on a couple other bikes and they've been working pretty well. When the Reverb goes full kaput...I'm just going to get another OneUp.


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## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

since I've had my stealth b1 (2017) I've done the 50 hr maint a few times (usually every year). I have had the top cap come loose and caught it before it was completely off once before but just recently it happened again and this time it came completely off during a ride which was moderately muddy, unbeknownst to me at the time. After cleaning bike I noticed the cap was off and pulled the dropper for a proper cleaning/re-greasing. I also added teflon tape to the threads on the top of the outer post where the top cap screws onto to provide more friction. I see RS may have applied some white material to the threads (threadlocker?) for this very reason but once you have removed the top cap a few times that material likely does not perform very well anymore. However, when you go through the 50-hr maintenance procedure, there is no mention of re-applying any threadlocker on before re-assembling the top cap.


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