# Fatboy Upgrade/Picture Thread



## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

I hope that this hasn't already been done, I searched and didn't see one dedicated to upgrading the Specialized Fatboy. The plan is to post your build/modification specs with weigh and pictures. Here's mine:

2014 Specialized Fatboy Expert, 17.5
Upgrades:
*Both Tires setup tubeless
*Ashima Air-Rotor discs 180 front/160 rear
*Formula R1 brakes
*Ritchey WCS stem 90mm
*S-Works carbon handlebars, 635mm wide
*S-Works carbon seatpost
*Specialized Grappler XL grips
*Specialized Phenom Ti saddle, 143mm wide
*SRAM X9 trigger shifter, right side only
*1x10 conversion includes:
Raceface Next SL crankset, 175mm
Raceface narrow/wide chainring, 32T
Wolftooth 42T GC, red
SRAM XX cassette, 36-12
SRAM 1090 hollow pin chain
Raceface PF30 bottom bracket
*Shimano SPD 520 pedals
*Specialized Manta bottle cage

Notes: *Bike as shown weighs 27.4 lbs
*With the Husker Du tires I have in the garage, the bike weighs 27 lbs. but I don't like the ride of the HuDu's. I feel that they self steer too much. In order to eliminate the self steer, I've had to use more air pressure, resulting in a harsh ride. I have elected to run the Ground Controls full-time because they are a smoother ride (to me) and I love the traction.
*I run the SPD 520's on all my bikes. I've had major issues with the XTR version and decided that reliability is more important than nano-grams. Same is said for my seatpost, stem and bar selection. I've had weight-weenie stuff on the Fatboy and had failures. You can't win if you can't finsih.
*The only additional upgrade that I plan to make is to add a set of HED Big Deal wheels.....hopefully before Iceman!


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## robertdavid (May 31, 2012)

Nice bike. Does anyone run clipless pedals on fat bikes?


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

I run clipless.....unless you mean platforms. I believe that there is a pretty good mix of clipless users and platform users in the fatbike community.


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

SPD's for me

What I'm looking for is a front 'mud guard' ... any suggestions??

Hope Retainer 30T narrow/wide (ditch front mech etc) 
Tubelsss
Bars swap to Salsa Bend 2 23°


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## Stephen Kunkel (Aug 21, 2014)

Me too. It's hard to hold the smile back while riding this put picking the gravel out of my teeth gets old real fast...


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

Here's my current set up. After trying to find a current picture it really hit me just how much I've changed on this bike.

This is the summer set up, we'll see how much it changes for winter: 
Left grip - ODI after removing the front derailleur and shifter
Specialized Command Post dropper - this will get changed to a Reverb shortly
30T N/W Raceface ring
Salsa stem with rise
Riser carbon bars (forget the brand, but fairly generic)
Bluto (100mm) by far the biggest and best change to the bike
Salsa 150mm front hub
New spokes to go with the new front wheel
On One Floater tires set up split tube tubeless - pretty much flawless in operation - I only put on the Floaters because I didn't want to wear out the Ground Controls in the dirt

Stupid fun bike that has taught me a lot about riding, it really has reinvigorated my riding (as new bikes often do).


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

bonesetter2004 said:


> SPD's for me
> 
> What I'm looking for is a front 'mud guard' ... any suggestions??
> 
> View attachment 927537


PDW Mudshovel.

Only updates on my bike so far was to have the shop toss the gripshift in favor of x7 triggers before I picked it up.

Was going to go with DLX brakes, but they've been on back order, so the LBS is upgrading my to XT's for the same price - dropping it off today for them to put them on. And since I paid for the brakes when I bought the bike, no labor charge, w00t!


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## liquidboarder2k4 (Jul 28, 2013)




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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

current upgrades and setup

rockshox bluto 80mm (best upgrade)
shimano xt brakes
shimano icetech 203mm front and 180mm rear rotors
e.thirteen crankset (replaced for free from specialized)
rockshox reverb dropper seatpost
salsa hub (front)
sram pc1051 chain
yellow duct tape on rims

soon..
x0 t2 rear derailleur
xt cassette
another set of ground control tires


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

Did you wear out your GC tires? Curious how many miles in what type of terrain? I'm itching to put mine back on, trying to wait until the snow flies.


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

Jisch said:


> Did you wear out your GC tires? Curious how many miles in what type of terrain? I'm itching to put mine back on, trying to wait until the snow flies.


i mostly ride my fatboy on the streets here in san diego.. i do 17 miles almost everyday on the road and would ride the trails about 2x a week 20 miles average.. have put about 700 miles since i got "helga" aug 18th.. lots of thread left but just want to keep a set handy just in case..


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

Anyone swapped out the original fit (overly heavy) tubes for lightweight ones?

Any feedback welcome


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I tried lightweight tubes and pinch flatted at low PSI. I have found split tube tubeless to be much more effective. I've had no flats all summer.


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

Thanks, yes have been through your threads, and endeavours  

Is the fat tubeless advantage worth it for improved ride would you say (flats aside)?


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

Jisch said:


> I tried lightweight tubes and pinch flatted at low PSI. I have found split tube tubeless to be much more effective. I've had no flats all summer.


I was considering giving the tape method a shot, but with the success stories in the Fatboy tubeless thread and talking to my LBS, I'm definitely doing split-tube. They gave tape a couple of tries but ended up going split tube and have done a few Fatboys like this.

So I grabbed some of the 24" tubes and orange seal and will be setting that up when they give me the Fatboy bake with XT brakes.

I also be doing my wife's Pug with tape, not split-tube....but that's another thread.

Digital camo for the rim strips =D

Pictures to come.


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

After saving weight and preventing flats I stopped looking for other reasons to go tubeless. Some say it rides better, not sure I feel that.


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

Yeah, I always go tubeless, and did so using Gorilla Tape on a Rabbit Hole rim a few weeks back on another bike with no issues. The Tape does fit 'exactly' into the internal width of the Rabbit Hole rim though

I suppose the biggest rub is the weight of the supplied Spesh tube (Which Spesh says 'came out heavier than expected' although that may have changed)


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## PedroK (Sep 29, 2014)

Edit... Wrong topic 😔


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## gravitylover (Sep 1, 2009)

bonesetter2004 said:


> Anyone swapped out the original fit (overly heavy) tubes for lightweight ones?
> 
> Any feedback welcome


I did and really didn't have any problems unless you consider punctures related to the thin walled tubes. Last winter we had the best crust riding in a long time and I found myself getting into some crazy places and picked up a few thorns so punctured the rear twice. The front held out until two weeks ago and I forgot to check air pressure before riding and was too lazy to stop and deal with it when I felt it soft. Of course that's when I pinched.

I probably won't bother going back to Q Lites because the Bontrager tubes have been good so far and aren't that much heavier.

No current pics but -
Bennies pedals
EC70 2" rise bar
Ergon grips
XO (grip) shifters
SRAM Guide RSC brakes (awesome!)


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## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

bonesetter2004 said:


> Anyone swapped out the original fit (overly heavy) tubes for lightweight ones?
> 
> Any feedback welcome


I'm using Specialized 26" x 2.3-3.0". They aren't super light, but I still dropped a solid pound of combined rotating weight.

*My Upgrades:*

Easton Carbon EC70 Seatpost
Specialized 90mm Stem
SRAM X7 Trigger Shifts & Foam Grips
Surly 64mm Wide Orange Rim Strips
Specialized 26 x 2.3-3.0" Tubes


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

Jisch said:


> Did you wear out your GC tires? Curious how many miles in what type of terrain? I'm itching to put mine back on, trying to wait until the snow flies.


dude, just put the gc's back.. unless you have a tire preference or don't like the tire, i don't understand why you need to put different tires just so you can save your gc's.. you don't know what your'e missing trying to save your tires because you don't want them to wear out.. remember, yesterdays history, tomorrows a mystery and today's a gift.. that's why it's called "present".. so put the gc's back, and ride the s**t out of those tires.. while you are able to.. just buy an extra set..


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

First proper ride on the GC's (and Fat Boy) today on my usual trails, which are mainly woodsy and hilly...

Grip levels are off the scale 

Especially cornering, but braking and climbing are ridiculous also

I didn't get near the limit on cornering, but I was laughing out loud on a few occasions, thinking I must trust them more and more

I'm still playing with PSi though

I did slip once on a wet root which I rolled over on a sloped angle. I think the tyre's smooth bit, in between the knobs contacted it, so it had nothing to bite on. The tyre (front) slid down and then gripped on some different stuff


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

av8or said:


> so put the gc's back, and ride the s**t out of those tires.. while you are able to.. just buy an extra set..


If the Floaters were a letdown, the GCs would be on the bike in a heartbeat. Likewise if the GCs weren't $160 a tire, I wouldn't be riding the Floaters at all. I gotta make this biking thing work from a cost perspective.


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

bonesetter2004 said:


> Anyone swapped out the original fit (overly heavy) tubes for lightweight ones?
> 
> Any feedback welcome


Yup, I did...my bike didn't make it off the showroom floor with the original tubes or platform pedals. My experience with tubes was, why? Setting up tubeless was pretty easy, I lost a ton of weight and have not had any issues with the tubeless setup on the fatboy. I say go for it. If you'd like to know my process for setting up tubeless, let me know.


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

Jisch said:


> If the Floaters were a letdown, the GCs would be on the bike in a heartbeat. Likewise if the GCs weren't $160 a tire, I wouldn't be riding the Floaters at all. I gotta make this biking thing work from a cost perspective.


yeah, they are expensive but that's not gonna stop me from riding these tires.. a couple of dollars a week, and before you know it, you have enough for one tire.. your set of floaters could have paid for one gc.. then just save for the other.. gc's would last you long enough that by the time they are worn out, you have saved enough for another set.. and then the cycle goes again.. tires get worn out... but your bike.. so, your call..


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

Yes, please share. I am very keen to ditch the heavy tubes



jackdz said:


> Yup, I did...my bike didn't make it off the showroom floor with the original tubes or platform pedals. My experience with tubes was, why? Setting up tubeless was pretty easy, I lost a ton of weight and have not had any issues with the tubeless setup on the fatboy. I say go for it. If you'd like to know my process for setting up tubeless, let me know.


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## dhmatt (Jul 11, 2008)

My first fatbike, which should make my winter a bit more fun. 
upgrades are,
xt brakes-
xt cassette-
xt clipless pedals-
slx shifter and rd -
raceface nw 32t chainring-
raceface atlas 50mm stem-
raceface atlas bars -
Diety grips-
Command dropper post-
E13 XCX cranks w/E13 BB-
Chromag moon saddle-
Glow in the dark rim strips-
100mm Bluto-


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

Went tubeless today, just picked it up the other day from the LBS after they put the XT's on. (Ice tech rotors en route)

Used some digital camo gun wrap for the rim strip, 24x2.25 split tube. Aired up fine with the hand pump and haven't leaked any orange seal yet. Took the air pressure way down and couldn't burp it, so I think it should be good.

Other than that and the x7 triggers, its all stock. No issues with the cranks so far.























Future upgrades, that I'm not in any hurry to complete:

Raceface Turbine stem, seatpost
Carbon bars (Next SL, perhaps)
Raceface Cinch crank (may go 1x10)
X9 Type 2 derailleur


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

Here's me:










Mods so far:

- Race Face Atlas Bars
- Race Face Atlas Stem
- Race Face Ride Post
- Race Face Turbine Cinch (30T) 1x10
- Shimano XT Cassette
- OneUp 42T 
- Avid BB7 brakes
- SRAM X7 Shifter
- Avid Cleansweep G2 Rotors - 180mm front and rear
- WTB Pure V Race seat
- Shimano Saints
- ODI Locking grips
- GIANT trail bell, because trail bells are awesome.


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

bonesetter2004 said:


> Yes, please share. I am very keen to ditch the heavy tubes


Sorry for the slow reply. I started by taking the tire off the wheel and wiping the rim down with alcohol. The higher the alcohol content the better because it does not contain additives that create residue. For tape, I used some plastic tape that I bought at a warehouse, no label, but it has a sticker that says "Part No. Y65256". I've scoured the internet to find a source to no avail....It's 3" wide and Fatboy Expert "Red"...a bonus. I started by putting the first layer down the middle over the factory rim strip, making sure it was stuck well. Then a layer on each side, making sure to put tape up on the rim sidewall (this is especially important with HuDU tires". Make sure that both the side strips of tape seal well on the center piece, assemble the tire with the factory tube to 20 psi and let sit for at least one hour. Un-seat only one side of the tire and carefully remove the tube and install the tubeless valve stem. Put in two scoops of your favorite sealant, soap the tire up with alot of soap and place the tire horizontal with the 'loose' side hanging down (gravity is your friend). Attach an aircompressor and it should seal. One issue that some people have with leaking tubeless setups is the though of using high pressure to seal. I NEVER exceed 10 psi with my setups, it stresses the tape and creates leak paths, plus I like the lower pressure for racing anyway. A little tip that I have is, I use three milkcrates tie wrapped together as my tire mounting station.....I'll post a pic if needed.


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## fatstash (Oct 5, 2014)

Here's my guy. I haven't upgraded or changed too much yet. Just added on a quick clip-on rack and we've been fabbing up a frame to build a rear fender with.
















I'm posting from my phone, so it looks like it's messing up the pics a bit. My apologies.


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## rss26Roger (May 17, 2013)

Sounds like other brands of tires, besides the GC's, will fit on the Fatboy rims...such as HuDu's and D8's...is this correct?


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

@ jack - thanks for posting that.

Sounds pretty much identical to what I have done, except I used 50mm Gorilla Tape.

Three strips (minus the rim strip, so straight onto the rim) first middle one facing up, then other tow each side. More of what I did here

I like what you say about keeping psi low. I did go to 20 while soap leak testing, but will keep that lower in future

5 rides on the tubeless now and it's held

Cheers


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

There are plenty of people who have been successful with Gorilla tape, I am not one. Other than to seat the bead I never had my tires over 10PSI, but the Stans still got under the tape - I didn't do the middle strip upside down thing though.


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## aussieinswitzerland (Aug 5, 2007)

Got mine last thursday and have swapped the handlebar, seatpost and stem for highend ritchey parts, brakes to slx, saddle to a slr carbon and the rim strips to the blue surly. 
As in picture it weighs 14kgs. 
Waiting for the speci xd drive body then will swap the back end to a xo1 cassette and derailleur with a xo1 gripshift and a raceface blue 30t chainring up front on the original crank.
After reading the horror stories this morning about said crank i checked mine and it was fine so applied more than enough copper paste and did it up again to 34nm which seem alright, not sure what is supposed to be. when i change the chainring i will pull the lot off and repack the bearings with a good grease and copper paste the rest.
Future plans after that lot will be hope hubs and a rs bluto fork, but after the princess gives the go ahead, not scared just smart


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## iscariot (Oct 24, 2006)

bonesetter2004 said:


> Anyone swapped out the original fit (overly heavy) tubes for lightweight ones?
> 
> Any feedback welcome


Yup. Using the Specialized 26 x 2.3 - 3.0 tubes. Dropped almost a pound per wheel. No problems whatsoever. Running anywhere between 4# and 12# pressure, depending on application. Summertime riding everything from commuting on pavement, to xc rides through roots and rocks with tech climbs, to AM/DH type stuff ripping through baby heads and roots, with small (under 3') drops and jumps thrown in for good measure. I did try squaring off a turn in a berm (7 psi at the time) and the tire did move and had a bit of a wiggle in the tread for the rest of the ride. Got home, deflated the tire, aired it back up and the tread is straight again. I am 5'11" and 175#, ride aggressively, especially considering what the Fatboy was actually designed for.

Just learn to ride smooth. If you plow through stuff with disregard for line, and expect the bike to save you, then you'll probably get pinch flats with tubes.


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## iscariot (Oct 24, 2006)

2014 Specialized Fatboy Comp (Yellow/Goldish), 1 x 10 (28 x 11-42).

Bar: RaceFace Next
Stem: RaceFace Atlas 50mm
Spacers: FSA Carbon
Grip: Lizard Skinz Steve Peat lockon (left side)
Shifter: SRAM GripShift (right side)
Saddle: Chromag Linx DT
Seat Post: RaceFace Next
Tubes: Specialized 26" 2.3-3.0
Pedals: FireEye P.J.ACr
Cranks: RaceFace Next SL 175mm / RaceFace Next BB
Ring: RaceFace NW 28t Direct
Cassette: SRAM 10-70 with 1Up 42t/16t
Rear Derailleur: SRAM X9 Type 2 Medium Cage
Chain: SRAM 1091 Hollowpin
Summer Tires: Specialized Ground Control 26 x 4.6
Winter Tires: 45NRTH Dillinger 5 26 x 4.8 (studded)

Summer weight: ~27# without pedals.


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

rss26Roger said:


> Sounds like other brands of tires, besides the GC's, will fit on the Fatboy rims...such as HuDu's and D8's...is this correct?


Yup, I've mounted and ran HuDu's on my stock rims&#8230;.and they were setup tubeless. After 16 miles I went back to the GC's&#8230;.they ride much better at race speeds.


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I am replacing the Command Post with a Reverb (I like the infinite stop aspect of the Reverb). This remote does not play nice with the brakes on the Expert Fatboy! Either my brake lever or my Reverb remote is going to be out of position (I always have run my dropper remote on the right side). I think a left upside down would be in the wrong spot too. Ugh, sucko, I guess new brakes are next on the list :-D


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## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

I did the tubeless thing with the Scotch transparant tape . Worked really well , no leaks or losing air. No upgrades yet besides going tubeless . Did swap the spacers for a carbon one


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

Ok boys...lots of great rigs on this thread. As an update to the capabilities of this bike, this past weekend I won the CAT 2 50+ OMBC Championship round at Mohican State Park. I was the only fatbike in the class and beat some pretty good Ohio riders. This is turning into my favorite bike! For reference, the race was 27 miles, 3900 ft of climbing and I did it in 2 hours, 26 minutes.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

iscariot said:


> 2014 Specialized Fatboy Comp (Yellow/Goldish), 1 x 10 (28 x 11-42).
> 
> Bar: RaceFace Next
> Stem: RaceFace Atlas 50mm
> ...


Nice bike- glad you mentioned the Dillingers, reminded me to swing by my LBS yesterday. They had just got a shipment in and I picked up a pair of 5's.


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## Stephen Kunkel (Aug 21, 2014)

jackdz said:


> Ok boys...lots of great rigs on this thread. As an update to the capabilities of this bike, this past weekend I won the CAT 2 50+ OMBC Championship round at Mohican State Park. I was the only fatbike in the class and beat some pretty good Ohio riders. This is turning into my favorite bike! For reference, the race was 27 miles, 3900 ft of climbing and I did it in 2 hours, 26 minutes.


Hey Jack, remember, it not so much the bike as it is the rider. Congrats!


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## CHSAD (Jan 18, 2004)

JCkdz how about a drive side pic love the build!


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

CHSAD said:


> JCkdz how about a drive side pic love the build!


Here ya go.....Pretty dusty as this is after a 3 hour race.


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

Stephen Kunkel said:


> Hey Jack, remember, it not so much the bike as it is the rider. Congrats!


Stephen....Agreed, the 'motor' has a lot to do with it. My point was, that this bike is a very capable XC racer. I absolutely love this bike.....my back up is an S-Works Epic 29er


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## CHSAD (Jan 18, 2004)

Looks great! I am on the fence pro vs. expert. I am leaning Expert as I don't need the dropper. How do you like the wolf tooth?


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

The wolftooth has been very good....I have it on two bikes. While it's not shimano buttery smoove....considering that it goes from 36 to 42 teeth, it is very good.


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## iscariot (Oct 24, 2006)

Paochow said:


> Nice bike- glad you mentioned the Dillingers, reminded me to swing by my LBS yesterday. They had just got a shipment in and I picked up a pair of 5's.


Nice. The paddles down the center look like they'll move snow well. The side lugs are well supported and look like they'll dig too. The round hollow studs are supposed to provide more surface area for grip on ice. Can't wait to give them a try in the snow. The rubber seems soft, so I don't wanna run them in the plus 15C to 20C we've been getting here lately. I know that keeping edges and sipes fresh is critical to snow/ice grip.

I found the Dillinger 5's are narrower and shorter than the Ground Controls, the Bud and Lou, and the Snowshoe XL. I don't mind this as I want float, but I also don't want to be pushing against so much snow (because of more width) in fresh conditions (you'd be surprised how fast the resistance builds when you're trying to plow through deep fresh on super wide tires), that it bogs me down. I think the Dillinger 5 fills the spot nicely.

On a side note, Specialized hit it out of the park with the Ground Controls for a summer tire. Little to zero self steer at any pressure above about 4 psi. Great grip like a billy goat on the climbs, that sheds debris, rails corners, and is stable through chuck and chunder. Although they could definitely fit tighter on the rim. Squared off a corner coming out of a burm and put a significant wiggle in the rubber as it moved on the rim...at 7 psi. Now running about 10 psi to keep the tire in place.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Can't wait to try out the Dillinger's in the snow either! I was debating between these and a Bud/Lou combo, but I wanted studs for some grip on all the ice that seems to build up by mid winter. Studding Bud/Lou's seemed like it would make a heavy tire even heavier and would cost more for less studs. I'm hoping the Dillinger 5's make for a nice all around winter tire.


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## jtawausau (Aug 19, 2014)

Digital camo tape? Awesome. I have the green spec FB ordered. Where are you getting the camp tape from? Can you send me a pic once completed? Thank you


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## fatstash (Oct 5, 2014)

I finally had to swap my grip shifters for x9 triggers, too. I put on some ergonomic grips also and comfort has vastly approved.


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## Germany-Chris (Oct 11, 2014)

Hello!

My 2015 Fatboy I designed, as you can see it on the pictures.

-other finish
-800mm wide handlebar with short stem
-Brooks saddle (very convenient!)
-Lefty
-bottle holder
-Bell by Crane-Japan (beautiful sound!)
-Conversion to only one chainring (30T race face)
-rear 10x cassette 11-42 (e * thirteen 42T)
-"Suicide circuit" at the seat clamp (silver without grid)

Coming Soon: BMX crank (KHE Hindenburg) and Magura MT5 200mm f / r

I hope you like it. I am very satisfied. It goes better with the changes for my needs a lot. particularly lefty, wide handlebars and stem are short pleasant.

Dear greetings from Germany!


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

That looks AWESOME.


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

Holy Fat Contraption


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## Fixed (Feb 7, 2011)

*Fatboy changes*

Fatboy bought in July. Replaced:

Saddle -- WTB 
Brakes -- XT, with Dirty Dog dragon 203 mm rotors
Fork -- 80 mm Bluto
FSA headset
90 mm stem replace 60 mm stock
Front wheel -- 150 mm hub to fit Bluto, with Clownshoe rim
Cassette -- 11-36 XT, but with 42 tooth Wolf cog
Candy pedals
Surly black rim strips, as cut outs are different front and back

Have about worn out the rear tire, so replacing it with a Lou this week.


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## Germany-Chris (Oct 11, 2014)

Seventh-777 said:


> That looks AWESOME.





bonesetter2004 said:


> Holy Fat Contraption


Thank you for your feedback signal. I hope you like it. I think so in about 2 months I'll be ready with the tag. Unfortunately, there is always a very expensive hobby, but it's incredibly fun and joy!

Chris!


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

jtawausau said:


> Digital camo tape? Awesome. I have the green spec FB ordered. Where are you getting the camp tape from? Can you send me a pic once completed? Thank you


See the previous page for the pictures. Here's the stuff....its -just- wide enough for the fatboy rims if you take care.

https://www.mcnett.com/tactical/camoform#19412


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## Davesnhere (Apr 3, 2005)

"Ok boys...lots of great rigs on this thread. As an update to the capabilities of this bike, this past weekend I won the CAT 2 50+ OMBC Championship round at Mohican State Park. I was the only fatbike in the class and beat some pretty good Ohio riders. This is turning into my favorite bike! For reference, the race was 27 miles, 3900 ft of climbing and I did it in 2 hours, 26 minutes."


Jack, Awesome Man!!! Congrats!


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## Fixed (Feb 7, 2011)

Thought the GCs were big and narly. Replaced the rear with a Lou. Holy cow - it makes the GCs look wimpy. Really big with huge lugs. Fits fine, but barely.


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

Fixed said:


> Thought the GCs were big and narly. Replaced the rear with a Lou. Holy cow - it makes the GCs look wimpy. Really big with huge lugs. Fits fine, but barely.


Got a pic of the tyre in the rear?


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

Fixed said:


> Fatboy bought in July. Replaced:
> Fork -- 80 mm Bluto


This rig is making me want a bluto&#8230;.can you tell me how much weight this adds?


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## Fixed (Feb 7, 2011)

jackdz said:


> This rig is making me want a bluto&#8230;.can you tell me how much weight this adds?


Wild guess, Bluto is about 3.5 pounds and stock carbon fork is 2 pounds?


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## Fixed (Feb 7, 2011)

bonesetter2004 said:


> Got a pic of the tyre in the rear?


Any way to post pics from an iphone?


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## CHSAD (Jan 18, 2004)

Jackdz my frame just came in build starts next week. Bluto has been ordered. Do you still have your front derailleur mounting hardware? 

My build is going to be mostly xt with xtr brakes. If I love it then HED's next year....


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## Fixed (Feb 7, 2011)

*Lou pix*

Lou on rear of Fatboy


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## CHSAD (Jan 18, 2004)

I think the Bluto adds 2 pounds. But you shave that off with HED's, right? I tested the Fatboy with the Bluto and w/o. I was hitting stuff with more speed and not being bounced off the pedals with the Bluto. Felt like when I got my first Rock Shox way back in the mid 90's.


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

CHSAD said:


> Jackdz my frame just came in build starts next week. Bluto has been ordered. Do you still have your front derailleur mounting hardware?


CHSAD, Yeah, I still have all the front derailleur hardware&#8230;I'm still skeptical on the Bluto&#8230;I really like the 'flick-a-bility" of the lightweight build&#8230;.but my old man wrists do feel it.


----------



## CHSAD (Jan 18, 2004)

Well I was thinking lightweight at first but I have my epic for that. I noticed the rigid fork in my shoulders at first. It will be nice to still have the rigid fork if I want to go that way. 

If you get a chance can you shoot a pic of the hardware for the front der? I am going to have source it as the frameset doesn't come with it.


----------



## Fixed (Feb 7, 2011)

bonesetter2004 said:


> Got a pic of the tyre in the rear?


The tightest clearance is the chain/tire. In low gear, there is about 1 mm clearance, but it works.


----------



## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

Fixed said:


> The tightest clearance is the chain/tire. In low gear, there is about 1 mm clearance, but it works.


Again, pics pls..


----------



## Father Guzzi Obrian (May 31, 2014)

robertdavid said:


> Nice bike. Does anyone run clipless pedals on fat bikes?


due to the riding I do, I have a set of pedals that are SPD on one side and cleated on the other, not super light, but works good


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## zaxmalloy (Jun 23, 2014)

Just picked it up today...so no time to do much yet...

Surly blue rim strips
MTX Beam Rack E-Type
MTX Side Rails
Specialized blue bottle holder


----------



## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

you need to get rid of those wheel reflectors.. seriously


----------



## zaxmalloy (Jun 23, 2014)

av8or said:


> you need to get rid of those wheel reflectors.. seriously


Just got it home, so give me a day


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

And the dork disk....


----------



## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

zaxmalloy said:


> Just got it home, so give me a day


mine came off before it left the lbs.. wheel and pedal reflectors..


----------



## zaxmalloy (Jun 23, 2014)

av8or said:


> mine came off before it left the lbs.. wheel and pedal reflectors..


I'm a noob and wasn't smart enough to ask I suppose. Figure the stock pedals are the next thing to go...


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

zaxmalloy said:


> I'm a noob and wasn't smart enough to ask I suppose. Figure the stock pedals are the next thing to go...


Don't sweat it dude, we were all noobs at one point and did they same type of stuff. Continue reading the forum and enjoy that Fatboy!


----------



## Cutlass454 (Apr 6, 2009)

Just picked up mine over the weekend. Have yet to really ride it, let alone put the pedals on. Cannot wait though.


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## mtbpri (Feb 1, 2009)

what hub spacers did you use to fit the bluto?


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

mtbpri said:


> what hub spacers did you use to fit the bluto?


Assuming you are replying to forum user "Fixed", go read his post again, he replaced the entire front wheel with a 150mm hub and clowshoe rim.


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## mtbpri (Feb 1, 2009)

I heard there is a way to use the existing hub by adding some spacers and different bearings. Here's what I found


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

mtbpri said:


> I heard there is a way to use the existing hub by adding some spacers and different bearings. Here's what I found
> View attachment 933528
> View attachment 933529
> View attachment 933530


That looks easier than buying a new hub and relacing a wheel.... Where did you find that guide?


----------



## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

Hmm, the wheel was pretty easy to build, think I'd rather do that than that conversion, but that's just me


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

Jisch said:


> Hmm, the wheel was pretty easy to build, think I'd rather do that than that conversion, but that's just me


I'm with you. That "conversion" looks like a problem waiting to happen.


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## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

Post - KS Lev 
Pedals - Canfield Crampon Ultimate
Brakes - BB7
Fork - Bluto 80mm
Wheels - Hope Fatsno hubs & Sun Ringle MuleFut tubeless (built by mikesee)
Shifter - XTR (10 speed)
Derailleur - XT (10 speed)
Cassette - XT (10 speed)
Chain - XT
Chainring - Raceface 30T
Seat - WTB Rocket V SLT
Bars - Easton Haven Carbon
Grips - Lizard Skins
Cranks - Stock
Stem - Stock
Headset - Stock
Tires - Stock except running tubeless


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## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

I am waiting for the next shipment of fatboy into Australia and am tossing up between the fatboy and the expert. Considering I would make a few upgrades fairly promptly, the 1st bein Xt brakes, I am leaning towards the standard fatboy in the orange( to match my 1997 S works) I have some 690mm carbon bars, are these considered wide enough for a fatboy? will try the std seat but I love Flite saddles so one will go on. XT spd's and will attempt tubeless if I can get rim tape suitable.
This will be my 1st fat bike and am looking forward to low tide runs on my local beaches, can go 10km in one direction and 8km in the other. Any tips for a newby will be appreciated.


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

fletchog said:


> I am waiting for the next shipment of fatboy into Australia and am tossing up between the fatboy and the expert. Considering I would make a few upgrades fairly promptly, the 1st bein Xt brakes, I am leaning towards the standard fatboy in the orange( to match my 1997 S works) I have some 690mm carbon bars, are these considered wide enough for a fatboy? will try the std seat but I love Flite saddles so one will go on. XT spd's and will attempt tubeless if I can get rim tape suitable.
> This will be my 1st fat bike and am looking forward to low tide runs on my local beaches, can go 10km in one direction and 8km in the other. Any tips for a newby will be appreciated.


Welcome aboard the fat bike train! I think you have a solid plan for your bike. I started with the Expert, but the only thing left is the frame, fork and wheels. I would have been better off buying the frame and building it right the first time.

As for the handlebar question, check out this thread:
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fat-bike-bar-width-935724.html


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## ERDOK (Apr 17, 2012)

Got my Fatboy 2 weeks ago and after 100 miles 7k of climbing. This bike became my fav bike. Awesome rig.


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

^^ liking the yellows


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## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

Looks like its going to be an Expert, no Fatbos until Dec.


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## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

Fatboy Pro

Upgrades:

XX1 Shifter, derailleur and Cassette
Answer 20/20 bar
Easton Haven Stem
Whiskey Carbon Rims with Hope Fatsno hubs set up tubeless.
Hudu rear tire for now, but may go back to GC.
Syntace Carbon post alternates with Command post depending upon terrain.


----------



## robertdavid (May 31, 2012)

very nice.


----------



## ERDOK (Apr 17, 2012)

Nice


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## Toldto (Aug 16, 2013)

I got mine yesterday. How much air (psi) should I put in for the front and back tire. Thanks.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

I usually run 8psi or so for general off road riding. Much more and it gets too bouncy. Less and I worry about pinch flats and/or denting a rim.


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## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

Deposit paid on an Expert, last one Specialized have in Oz, hopefully have it by the w/e.


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## Toldto (Aug 16, 2013)

Thank you,Paochow. And you weigh ~ 150 lb ?


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

About 175 ready to ride.


----------



## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Mods so far on my Fatboy Expert:

tubeless - 3M tape w/ Orange Seal - the best mod, by far
Easton EC70 720 mm carbon bar
Easton EA70 70mm stem, 6 deg down
Easton EA70 seatpost
Ritchey WCS Marathon saddle

and bought a 0-15 psi gauge, highly recommended

...looking for a set of studded tires for the winter, probably 45NRTH


----------



## tenaciousd (Oct 27, 2014)

Picking up a FB tomorrow evening. 
Are there recommendations on quality sites with great prices for mods?


----------



## Toldto (Aug 16, 2013)

Test ride.


----------



## crohnsy (Sep 11, 2009)

tenaciousd said:


> Picking up a FB tomorrow evening.
> Are there recommendations on quality sites with great prices for mods?


Your LBS


----------



## crohnsy (Sep 11, 2009)

Double post


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## tahic (Jul 21, 2008)

cycloxer13 said:


> Mods so far on my Fatboy Expert:
> 
> tubeless - 3M tape w/ Orange Seal - the best mod, by far
> Easton EC70 720 mm carbon bar
> ...


Can you recommend the gauge you purchased?


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## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

Picked mine up tonight.


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

tahic said:


> Can you recommend the gauge you purchased?


I have this one:

Amazon.com : SKS Airchecker Digital Presta and Schrader Pressure Gauge : Bike Pack Accessories : Sports & Outdoors

and this one:

Tire Pressure Gage Schrader Presta Michelin MN 4606B Digital Bicycle Auto | eBay

When using the Michelin, it's best to lubricate the end of the gauge as there is an o-ring that can pull out.


----------



## elandy (Apr 14, 2011)




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## CHSAD (Jan 18, 2004)

+1 crohnsy.


----------



## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

a day at the beach


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## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

Banged out 35km on the fatty this am. so much fun, lots of wooden stairs to access beach in my area. now have a great route going up the shallow ones a little allong the top path then down the longer sets, bit of rock/reef riding to get around a bluff. Am totally stocked with my expert. Will replace the grips with esi chunky's, tossing up whether to go with a set of RXL carbon bars I have that are 700mm, so a bit narrower.


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Tree Fort Bikes - Online Bicycle Parts and Accessories, Bicycle Tools and Maintenance

0-15 psi analog Meiser gauge - measures in 1/4 # increments. 15 bucks.


----------



## Toldto (Aug 16, 2013)

*FB tubes.*

Pls help me to find tubes for the Fatboy. I'd like to get lighter one. Thank you.


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## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

Toldto said:


> Pls help me to find tubes for the Fatboy. I'd like to get lighter one. Thank you.
> 
> View attachment 936836


Specialized 26 x 2.3 - 3.0" Tubes. I am using them now.


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## ERDOK (Apr 17, 2012)

No Snow here in Calif but we got nasty hills. No prob with Fatty.


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## Toldto (Aug 16, 2013)

pspycho said:


> Specialized 26 x 2.3 - 3.0" Tubes. I am using them now.


 Thanks, pspycho. where can I find them ?


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## sryanak (Aug 9, 2008)

ERDOK said:


> No Snow here in Calif but we got nasty hills. No prob with Fatty.
> View attachment 936873


Proof positive that the tires do grip like velcro!


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

sryanak said:


> Proof positive that the tires do grip like velcro!


good one


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## Cape Codder (Jan 16, 2014)

My LBS told me not worth going tubeless on fatboy as bead does not hold well on low tire pressure. I want to go tubeless for weight and flat sealant. What experiences have you guys had?


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I've been tubeless on my Fatboy since February of last year. I burped air exactly once when I was riding sub 5PSI. In my experience the Fatboy rims are excellent for going tubeless. I used split tube, after several failures of gorilla tape, but people have been successful with tape and other solutions.


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## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

I have no problems after several weeks tubeles. Use the Scotch transparant DuctTape .
Upgrades so far : carbon headset spacer , carbon seatpost collar and handlebar , went tubeless and swapped the Tektro's for Deore's.








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

Toldto said:


> Thanks, pspycho. where can I find them ?


Your LBS? People are using a similar sized QTubes brand with success as well.


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## Toldto (Aug 16, 2013)

pspycho said:


> Your LBS? People are using a similar sized QTubes brand with success as well.


Thanks. I could not find them in LBS.


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## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

Just a question for all fatboy riders 

How high/low do you run your bars in relation to your saddle height.

After many yrs on rd and XC racing I tend to have mine a fair way below my seat. I guess it is going to be trial and error, I have a set of 700mm carbon flat bars I can throw on but wondering what you experienced fatties think. 

Is a wider riser bar an advantage? or should I run a similar width to my 29er race bike?


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

If you set it up properly, tubeless works excellent on the Fatboy. 

I am running 1 layer of 3M Tough Transparent tape on the front with no problems. This tire has 4 oz. of Stans. I am running 1 thicker layer of Nashua UL Duct Tape on the rear (which is slightly heavier) with no problems. This tire has 4 oz. of Orange Seal.

I typically run 6-7 psi, though I ran as low as 3.5 psi in testing.

The biggest difficulty is sealing the seam of the rim. My rear wheel was more problematic in this regard, but I did get it with more tape overlap. You also have good coverage over your vent holes.

As for bar stem, I swapped out the stock units for a flat carbon 720mm Easton bar and I'm running this with a neg 6 degree 70 mm EA70 stem. This puts my bars in a lower position more akin to that of an XC race bike. I am 5'8 running a Medium.


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## Cape Codder (Jan 16, 2014)

cycloxer13 said:


> If you set it up properly, tubeless works excellent on the Fatboy.
> 
> I am running 1 layer of 3M Tough Transparent tape on the front with no problems. This tire has 4 oz. of Stans. I am running 1 thicker layer of Nashua UL Duct Tape on the rear (which is slightly heavier) with no problems. This tire has 4 oz. of Orange Seal.
> 
> ...


Why heavier tape on rear, 3M not work? Also why stans front and orange rear?
Is tape better then split tube?


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## Cape Codder (Jan 16, 2014)

Christ D said:


> I have no problems after several weeks tubeles. Use the Scotch transparant DuctTape .
> Upgrades so far : carbon headset spacer , carbon seatpost collar and handlebar , went tubeless and swapped the Tektro's for Deore's.
> View attachment 936971
> 
> ...


Stans or Orange, does it matter? Heard some say it eats thru duct tape, not sure about 3M.


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

I like the Orange Seal better. Why? I think it seals leaks better and faster. I just think it is a slightly better product. As for eating through the tape, I have heard this too, but I have not had my setup going that long. 

The key to making the Fatboy work is to seal very carefully around the vent holes and th rim seams. This causes all of the problems. On my rear wheel, the seam was so poor that I resorted to taping all of the way up the vertical of the rim. This took a little more care with the tape, but it worked perfectly. If too much sealant gets into the seam, it works its way into the rim and then it undermines your tape job and everything goes to hell. I know because I failed on several tape jobs with my rear wheel.


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

Posted this on another thread.. Anyway, my puller cap was lost on one of my rides and lbs ordered me a whole new crankset since they cannot just get the cap... Lo and behold specialized upgraded my crankset and sent an e.thirteen, the one the expert uses.. For free!!! Aesthetically, it looks way better than samox.. With all my upgrades so far, all i need to replace is my rear deurailler to xo and it's already an expert if not more.. Since i have bluto and xt brakes, 206mm f and 180 r, and reverb dropper seatpost..


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## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

Cape Codder said:


> Stans or Orange, does it matter? Heard some say it eats thru duct tape, not sure about 3M.


Stans. Don't know if it matters. No issues so far.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

Just had to re do the rear after 6 weeks. The Stans had worked it's way under the tape and lifted it in places. That was with a 3 strip (of 50mm) arrangement

Now put a 4th strip in the middle over the other 3, and left a tube in overnight in a warm room. 

The fluid has really got a long way to go now.


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## Cape Codder (Jan 16, 2014)

bonesetter2004 said:


> Just had to re do the rear after 6 weeks. The Stans had worked it's way under the tape and lifted it in places. That was with a 3 strip (of 50mm) arrangement
> 
> Now put a 4th strip in the middle over the other 3, and left a tube in overnight in a warm room.
> 
> The fluid has really got a long way to go now.


Did you use the 3M duct tape or something else?


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## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

Swapped out the std bars for a set of Bontrager RXL 690mm carbon bars which came off my Superfly, a garmin out front mount, a Thompson elite layback post and Flite carbonio.


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

Cape Codder said:


> Did you use the 3M duct tape or something else?


50mm wide Gorilla tape


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Single Ring 30T Blackspire narrow wide on the Fatboy Expert e*thirteen stock crank. I tried a direct mount e*thirteen ring, which looked super slick, but the chainline was not quite right at 66. This setup has a 72-73 mm chainline which is a better match for our 190 rear hub. It works flawlessly btw.


----------



## barry1me (May 9, 2008)

hey guys I need some brake pads for my deore brakes for the rear...anyone replace there yet? Any recommendations?


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

barry1me said:


> hey guys I need some brake pads for my deore brakes for the rear...anyone replace there yet? Any recommendations?


I had brake problems, on the Expert, kept fouling up to the point of almost not working and shuddering-screeching. I think the problem was it came with sintered pads and the disks are rated for resin only.
Running resin now, all good. The resin pads I put in definately look different to the original ones


----------



## Jeepnut22 (Jul 16, 2008)

Anyone know the stem lengths on the FatBoys? I am about to land a FatBoy Pro and there are no marking on the stem, and nothing on Specialized's website. Size M is the one I am looking at, and it looks like a 50mm.


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## Rightcoaster (Dec 25, 2006)

The stock med I rode had a 60mm and a large had a 70mm...


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## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

Jeepnut22 said:


> Anyone know the stem lengths on the FatBoys? I am about to land a FatBoy Pro and there are no marking on the stem, and nothing on Specialized's website. Size M is the one I am looking at, and it looks like a 50mm.


It's 60mm on the Medium:

Specialized Bicycle Components


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## Jeepnut22 (Jul 16, 2008)

pspycho said:


> It's 60mm on the Medium:
> 
> Specialized Bicycle Components


Thanks! I was looking at the specs trying to find it.


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Somebody asked why I preferred Orange Seal to Stans. I have one wheel set up with each. I popped the bead today and the Orange Seal was still liquid after a month. The Stans had this rubber booger, but it only weighed 4 grams, so I took it out, added a little more Stans and kept rolling.


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

cycloxer13 said:


> Somebody asked why I preferred Orange Seal to Stans. I have one wheel set up with each. I popped the bead today and the Orange Seal was still liquid after a month. The Stans had this rubber booger, but it only weighed 4 grams, so I took it out, added a little more Stans and kept rolling.


That's my beef with Stans. All the stuff that makes up the Stans Boogers is the stuff that is supposed to help clog up a puncture.

At this point, I've had 2 punctures in as many years having gone tubeless. One with Stans in a Larry that just wouldn't seal. The Stans was around the same age as yours, opening the tire revealed a nice big booger. Spun the tire, tried riding, everything....it just kept spraying air and Stans.

Had a nearly identical puncture a couple week on my wife's bike with Nates and Orange Seal. The Orange Seal was about 3 week old. It sealed right up within about 15 seconds and was good to go. Barely lost any air, either.

We'll see how everything fares after winter, but so far, I'm happier with Orange Seal.


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

Did some parts swapping with my old full suspension today, and picked up some new goodies.

Crank Brothers Iodine carbon bars:










XT Brakes w/Avid HSX 2-piece rotors, 180MM front and rear:










Spank spikes:










Weight w/pedals, one stock tube and one Surly tube and a race face seat post (have a crank brothers carbon on the way):


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## plussa (Jul 12, 2005)

I just bought a Fatboy Expert 2015 yesterday and went tubeless... Stock tubes were 470 grams each, red rimstrips 52g each.

Replaced these with: 1 layer of 1.88 Gorilla tape upside down as the rimstrip, 3 layers of 50mm wide vapour barrier tape and 3 scoops of Stan's per tire.
I applied the vapour barrier tape 2 layers to the edges and then 1 layer to center. With some stretching, It was very easy to apply without any wrinkles.

Seems to work fine and rolls noticeably better with low psi, long term test results to follow... I didn't want to go the Gorilla tape way after reading bad long-term reviews.


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

Looks good - let us know how if fairs longer term

My Gorilla Tape only 3 strip method lasted 6 weeks

Edit: currently on the Gorilla 4 strip: three strips as before with a 4th final one in the middle - went up straight away and has not leaked at all - yet - , which the 3 strip did


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## plussa (Jul 12, 2005)

Here's my long-term review: It was not a good idea. Vapour barrier tape doesn't like Stan's sealant at all, started leaking after 6 hours... :madmax:

Back to inner tubes and 600g more rotating mass...


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## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

I've said it before (a couple of times) , use the Scotch Transparant Duct Tape . Mine holds air and doesn't leak for weeks now. And the wheels have gone through mud and water a couple of times.
Tubeless Fatbike Conversion Update | Cycles In Life


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

...or split tube.


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

Christ D said:


> I've said it before (a couple of times) , use the Scotch Transparant Duct Tape . Mine holds air and doesn't leak for weeks now. And the wheels have gone through mud and water a couple of times.
> Tubeless Fatbike Conversion Update | Cycles In Life


At the risk of being pinikety (things are sometimes lost in the typing) can I ask exactly how many weeks and what you mean by going through mud & water a couple of times


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## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

About 5 weeks now. What i meant was that my rims have been very wet , hubdeep river crossing , and the Scotch tape is still firmly attached to the rim/rimstrip. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

plussa said:


> Here's my long-term review: It was not a good idea. Vapour barrier tape doesn't like Stan's sealant at all, started leaking after 6 hours... :madmax:
> 
> Back to inner tubes and 600g more rotating mass...


Fwiw...While I used split-tube on my Fatboy, I used Tyvek barrier tape on my wife's Pug w/ Rolling Darryls. Two strips, overlapping in the center. Put a tube in and let go overnight to set the tape.

No leaks or any other issues over the last 3 months. Used Orange Seal.


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## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

jcaino said:


> Fwiw...While I used split-tube on my Fatboy, I used Tyvek barrier tape on my wife's Pug w/ Rolling Darryls. Two strips, overlapping in the center. Put a tube in and let go overnight to set the tape.
> 
> No leaks or any other issues over the last 3 months. Used Orange Seal.


Yes , Tyvek and Orange Seal get's the job done too. Friend of mine in the US used this with succes also.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ibismojo2001 (Jul 21, 2006)

Anyone try 100mm clownshoe rims on the Fatboy? Just curious


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## Cape Codder (Jan 16, 2014)

Christ D said:


> I've said it before (a couple of times) , use the Scotch Transparant Duct Tape . Mine holds air and doesn't leak for weeks now. And the wheels have gone through mud and water a couple of times.
> Tubeless Fatbike Conversion Update | Cycles In Life


Did you add rim tape?


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## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

Cape Codder said:


> Did you add rim tape?


Follow the link and do it like in the description. :thumbsup:


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## Stupendous Man (Jan 12, 2004)

I upgraded the theme of mine a little bit


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## Germany-Chris (Oct 11, 2014)

The BMX crank unit is now installed. This went very well and without problems. The 48 spline axle is 19mm and comes from PROFILE. The crank arms (also PROFILE) I have elected to 160mm. This I have more ground clearance and a narrower stance. For me very pleasantly.

The PROFILE chainring has 25 teeth and is perfectly adequate for my strength & endurance. Only now do I use more often the smaller sprocket of the rear cassette.
The pedals are now significantly more stringent and more than like the old plastic. They are SUPER STAR and fit in my opinion quite well with the rest.

By chrome crank arms I have now permanently no more ugly abrasion.
The holder and the cable routing from front derailleur I have now sawn off and repainted.

Greetings from Dresden


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## zaxmalloy (Jun 23, 2014)

Stupendous Man said:


> I upgraded the theme of mine a little bit


How sexist. Love it.


----------



## one4teen (Jul 13, 2010)

*My Ride*


Upgrades completed.
BB7s - SD7s
EC70 low rise carbon bar
Thomson Setback seatpost
WTB Pure V - It's what I like
Redid the rear hub bearings.
X7 trigger shifter - ditched the left
32T Wolftooth Chainring
Sram Cassette
XT skewer ends on the stocks - it is lighter and easier to grab.
BioKork Grips
Tubeless with Pegasus tape - working very well.

I may replace crankset with a the Next and direct mount 30T or do the 40t/16 in the rear. Unsure about that. I finger shifted to the 22 today for a climb and that was certainly the cheaper option. Just haven't gotten around to removing it yet.


----------



## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

SRAM XX1 1x11 with Blackspire 30T on the e*thirteen cranks, just finished getting it dialed.

tomorrow, we are revisiting tubeless with this 4" Nashua Pro Duct Tape


----------



## Tincup69 (Sep 5, 2012)

New saddle. I've only taken it on a short ride but so far so good.


----------



## Xylx (Mar 18, 2005)

*Fatboy in Boise*









Bought this Fatboy in July. Been waiting for snow ever since and slowly upgrading. I owned the Boise Greenbelt yesterday after an early season snowfall. Couldn't be happier with the Fatboy.

*UPGRADES*
RaceFace- Next carbon seat post, Next carbon bar, Speed V gel saddle (yes I realize this undid all the weight loss from the post, but I need it)

Ritchey 32 degree 80 mm stem. I'm old, can't be bent over too much.

1x10 conversion using Samox crank and a RF 104 BCD 30 tooth, narrow-wide chain ring. Will go with Next SL crank with 28 tooth direct mount if I can figure out which parts to order.

Shimano XTR cassette (Ti cogs- huge weight loss)

Q tubes, ESI grips, Xpedo pedals (279 gms total). Stuck with the gripshift. I have always liked them. The light is a cheap Cateye. I have a nice NiteRider 1200 lumen light, but it isn't dark enough yet on my commute to need it. I took too many links out of the chain when I went to 1x10 as is obvious in the photo. Gotta fix that. Any chain recommendations?

Upgrades- not sure which to do. Brakes? XTs are better, but are they any lighter? I only ride snow at this point and do not need great brakes. Although the Tectros are pretty squeely when wet. Probably try a tubeless conversion. I think Fatboy may be under 27 pounds as is, for sure it's under 28 according to a not so accurate scale I have. I have wanted a real fatbike ever since my 2.4" snowcat rim days back in the 90s. 4.6" tires were unthinkable back then.


----------



## WisMtnBykr (Mar 16, 2014)

*First snow ride for this season..*

First snow ride for this season..
No probs.. Except for a wet back side.
Gotta get some fenders.
Andy


----------



## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

coke said:


> Post - KS Lev
> Shifter - XTR (10 speed)
> Chainring - Raceface 30T
> View attachment 933588


Hi,

Has anyone who's done the 30T Raceface Narrow/Wide had to buy the spacer shims or does it work without them? I'm going "1 x 10.5" with the OneUp 42T (+16T Cog) conversion kit and the Raceface 30T N/W upfront.

Also for those folks who have done this, did you have to get a new chain or were the number of links good?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

I ran a 1x10 before I went full-on 1x11. Any of the 30T narrow wide front rings mounted on the oem crank will put the chainline near perect. (Technically it is off by 1-2 mm, but it is pretty close to the middle of the cassette.)

On my medium, the bike came with 55 links. When I bumped up to 30-42, I needed 56 links for proper chain length.


----------



## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

cycloxer13 said:


> I ran a 1x10 before I went full-on 1x11. Any of the 30T narrow wide front rings mounted on the oem crank will put the chainline near perect. (Technically it is off by 1-2 mm, but it is pretty close to the middle of the cassette.)
> 
> On my medium, the bike came with 55 links. When I bumped up to 30-42, I needed 56 links for proper chain length.


Whats involved in going XX1or XO1? 
Do you need a new rear hub or does the 11spd freewheel fit the std specialised hub?, I have the Fatboy Expert. 
Then it is cassette, rear mech and shifter plus a front ring.


----------



## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

cycloxer13 said:


> On my medium, the bike came with 55 links. When I bumped up to 30-42, I needed 56 links for proper chain length.


Are you sure about this? 55 links seems way too short. I'll count mine when I get home, but I bet its twice that.......


----------



## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

cycloxer13 said:


> I ran a 1x10 before I went full-on 1x11. Any of the 30T narrow wide front rings mounted on the oem crank will put the chainline near perect. (Technically it is off by 1-2 mm, but it is pretty close to the middle of the cassette.)
> 
> On my medium, the bike came with 55 links. When I bumped up to 30-42, I needed 56 links for proper chain length.


Awesome!
That helps a lot.


----------



## thegock (Jan 21, 2014)

*Orange is the new phat*

Fatboy Pro

The frame is Orange, because I needed a large so Hilltop, the LBS, swapped the Pro parts onto another FB frame (they are all the same).

UPGRADES

Tubeless-most important. Running 8lbs now without snow on the ground in NJ, but might reduce pressure depending on how they hook up in the white stuff. I weigh 200lbs.:madman:

Thomson carbon bars-I'm 59 and want to reduce the harsh.

Thomson elite seatpost-(downgrade that I swapped for the bars) Never had a dropper, but might put the Thomson or the Fox on another bike to try it.

Selle Italia saddle-They fit my anatomy

32.1 lbs with the Bluto is pretty good.

One of my riding buddies said he will be buying me fenders after he got rooster tailed in the mud yesterday.

Got my eighth ride in nine days of ownership. Hopefully, that is the ratio which we will maintain.


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

jackdz said:


> Are you sure about this? 55 links seems way too short. I'll count mine when I get home, but I bet its twice that.......


I'm guessing he's just counting outer plates. If you ran a chain with an odd number of links you wouldn't be able to connect it.


----------



## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

To clarify, 56 is the # of outer links including the quick connect.

Spec makes an XDriver that fits our hubs for about $55.


----------



## carbonLORD (Jun 9, 2007)

*I call it, the Tumbler*

Large stock Fatboy

Upgrades so far:

Powdercoated Black.
ENVE SWP Bar, ENVE 100mm Stem, ENVE Seatpost.
Shimano Deore Brakes, Calipers, Icetech 203/180 Rotors, Icetech Resin Pads.
Surly Lou/Bud w/ Surly Ultralight Tubes.
Thomson Seatclamp.
Henge Hollow/Ti saddle.
Specialized Bennies Pedals.

I have purchased the following, waiting for rims to arrive before completion:

Nextie Wild Dragon 90mm Carbon Fat Rims, Matte black unidirectional with glossy decals.
Lou/Bud 2nd set unused (will run tubeless).
DT Swiss black brass 12mm nipples, DT Swiss Aerolight 2.--2.3-2.0 spokes.
Industry 9 Torch Fat Hubs w/ XD Driver.
SRAM X01 10/42 Black Cassette.
Raceface Next SL w/ RF BB.
XTR 9000 SG Derailleur w/ XTR 9000 Shifter.
eThirteen Chain Guide Direct Mount.
KMC X11SL DLC Black Chain.
Ergon GA1 Black grips.

I cant wait!


----------



## NRS1FREAK (Aug 23, 2004)

^Love the look!

Made some Fenders, ready for the rain and mud. lol


----------



## robertdavid (May 31, 2012)

cool bike.  I got a Fatboy superlight and just changed out the grips to Ergons and put on Candy Pedals.


----------



## bozofs (Aug 20, 2010)

*can't wait for the Nextie addition*

going tubless, 65mm Nextie's updates coming soon.:thumbsup:

The other bike is a Josh?s Kilo-Graham EX | Graham Cycles
every one asks... so I post!


----------



## Smokin Slow (Oct 7, 2014)

NRS1FREAK nice work on the fenders!
What is that material and how did you cut it if I can ask?


----------



## Cape Codder (Jan 16, 2014)

*Flying Fatboy's*

Tubeless and crank covers and ready to roll.


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Got mine back from a warranty freehub replacement this weekend.

Added 200 grip studs to my Bud and Lou's to see how they compare to the Dillinger 5's I've been running.

Also added a set of Cobrafist's with Ergon GC1's, mud shovel fenders, and a Garmin 64s.

Mostly stock otherwise, except for a XT cassette, and Glowworm XS.


----------



## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

Paochow said:


> Got mine back from a warranty freehub replacement this weekend.
> 
> Added 200 grip studs to my Bud and Lou's to see how they compare to the Dillinger 5's I've been running.
> 
> ...


Love it!


----------



## NRS1FREAK (Aug 23, 2004)

Smokin Slow said:


> NRS1FREAK nice work on the fenders!
> What is that material and how did you cut it if I can ask?


Thanks! It's smoke plexiglass I had laying around. Just cut out the shape on a band saw. The down tube fender I used a blow torch to heat and bend. I got the material from a store called tap plastics, hopefully they have one in your area.


----------



## bozofs (Aug 20, 2010)

Anyone have Nextie 65mm on there Fatboy? Pic's please?.?......


----------



## carbonLORD (Jun 9, 2007)

New Nextie/Industry 9 wheels soon...

View attachment 944540


View attachment 944541


View attachment 944543


View attachment 944544


View attachment 944545


----------



## gcohen (Jun 13, 2006)

Posted this pic on another thread but it belongs here as well.

Upgrades:
Removed front deraileur
28t direct mount e13 front ring
42t cog 
100mm bluto
Light-bicycle/i9 wheels
Xt brakes
Easton carbon bar


----------



## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

gcohen said:


> Posted this pic on another thread but it belongs here as well.
> 
> Upgrades:
> Removed front deraileur
> ...


Got a weight on that bad boy?


----------



## gcohen (Jun 13, 2006)

Not yet. I'll try and get the bathroom scale measurement tonight.


----------



## NRS1FREAK (Aug 23, 2004)

Hmmmmm... Wat might dis be for. xD #yolo...


----------



## gcohen (Jun 13, 2006)

matto6 said:


> Got a weight on that bad boy?


My digital scale which reads to the tenth of a pound put it exactly at 30lbs with pedals, 6oz of stans per wheel, and a little bit of today's trail dirt


----------



## Louie Escobar (Jul 6, 2014)

Fatboy - Seek and destroy upgrade.


----------



## Cape Codder (Jan 16, 2014)

Do you need to use rim strip if you go split tube?
Any reason not to trim excess tube?
Any reason not to trim tube down to corner of inside side wall of rim. That seems to be the place the tape guys run tape to. Not up side wall.


----------



## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

Louie Escobar said:


> Fatboy - Seek and destroy upgrade.
> 
> View attachment 944782


And you thought the bike was expensive. 200 /300 2.8? Nice

Pedaling


----------



## NRS1FREAK (Aug 23, 2004)

Sorta Kinda related? lol


----------



## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

*Went 1x10 with OneUp 42T and RaceFace N/W 30T*

I moved to the land of 1x10 with the OneUp 42T (+16T Cog) and an orange RaceFace N/W 30T up front. I like the cleaner look and I dropped almost a whole pound  of weight...

I am really enjoying this bike.


----------



## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

Cape Codder said:


> Do you need to use rim strip if you go split tube?
> Any reason not to trim excess tube?
> Any reason not to trim tube down to corner of inside side wall of rim. That seems to be the place the tape guys run tape to. Not up side wall.


You'll want to use some kind of rim strip to protect the tube.

You don't have to trim, but may want to if it is rubbing.

I trimmed down to the sidewall with a nice sharp blade by getting it started, pulling on the exposed cut tube, and sliding the knife, using the rim to guide. It was really easy and looks super clean now.

As long as you use a tube that has a valve with a removable core you can add sealant without breaking the tire bead.


----------



## WisMtnBykr (Mar 16, 2014)

Rjedoaks... 
I like your new GoPro..


----------



## NRS1FREAK (Aug 23, 2004)

Yep, It happened. lol


----------



## turkish_sp (Nov 11, 2008)

Enve Sweep bar
Edge stem
Easton EC90 seatpost (ti bolts)
KCNC seat clamp
Selle Italia Flite Carbonio (no cover) / Specialized Romin Evo Pro
Shimano XT brakes -> 160 mm XT Ice Tech front / 160 mm Ashima rear
Shimano XTR shifter
Shimano XTR Shadow Plus rear derailleur
Shimano 11-36 XT cassette + e13 42t + Shimano XT 16t
Race Face NW 30 chainring
EsiGrips Chunky Grips

Titanium and nylon bolts


----------



## Jeepnut22 (Jul 16, 2008)

Posted elsewhere already, but it should be in the FatBoy thread too...

FatBoy Pro

Upgrades before leaving my LBS:
Thomson Carbon Bar 750mm
Race Face Atlas stem 65mm
Swapped the black Bennies for white ones
Swapped the black Z-Cage for a white one
Swapped the dropper post lever to the shifter style lever (not pictured)
Specialized Enduro Lock on grips same color as the frame, with blue lock rings (not pictured)

Updates on the backlog:
Blue Seat Post clamp, probably Hope
Drop in 26" 2.4 tubes or go tubeless
I9 hubs in Blue with Matte Black Tubeless Carbon Rims, either Light-Bicycle, or Nextie

Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic. Better one to come...
View attachment 945835


----------



## carbonLORD (Jun 9, 2007)

*26.5lbs*


----------



## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Coolest Fatboy I have seen yet. Are those the 65 or 90mm rims? I am waiting on my 90mm carbon rims before I post pics...


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

carbonLORD said:


>


:thumbsup: a very nice :thumbsup: Light as the SL


----------



## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

*Want snow.*

I love this bike. Miss my pug, but man did Specialized put together a nice package. Upgraded to XT brakes and icetech rotors. Steel axle, and no hub/crank issues, yet.


----------



## plussa (Jul 12, 2005)

Seatpost and stem updated to Thomson elite, bars upgraded to CB Cobalt 780mm. Everything is now nice and glossy black.










Charge Knife Ti saddle, one of my all-time favorites. Deore brakes are actually quite awesome with XT Ice Tech rotors, 203 / 180 mm










I started hating the red color, there was too much red in the bike when the rimstrips are also red. So I customized it a bit...
(Actually I have Nitromors already waiting, but I think I'm keeping it like this for a while)


----------



## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

*See ya, wouldn't want to be ya*

...a little work with the dremel























and for those that want to know, this took 40 grams off of the bike...however, the motive was to clean up the BB area for better snow/mud shedding, plus it looks much better


----------



## YORK25 (Mar 13, 2013)

plussa said:


> Seatpost and stem updated to Thomson elite, bars upgraded to CB Cobalt 780mm. Everything is now nice and glossy black.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


How did you do that with the paint, I like that a lot.


----------



## plussa (Jul 12, 2005)

cycloxer13 said:


> ...a little work with the dremel


That is exactly what I have been planning, but I've been too wimp to actually do it...
I just bought my Fatboy a month ago, so I don't want to lose warranty yet....

YORK25: Just a wide black sharpie. Works great.


----------



## Mr. Fisherman (Sep 27, 2014)

Just received my CETMA 5 rail rack. Can't wait to install it but I have to.
Pics when I am able.


----------



## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

I just taped it up and went easy. I also left a lot of extra metal and just smoothed it out. It is unlikely to affect the warranty unless you crack the bike in the BB area. It just makes the area down by the crank so much cleaner. I still have to do the upper cable stop, but I was running out of time and I need some fresh dremel bits. I'm pretty happy with how it came out.


----------



## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

gcohen said:


> Xt brakes


How well are you able to access the short xt brake lever with the sram grip shifter on there? I'm looking my xt on my other bike and it looks like it would be way short.


----------



## bozofs (Aug 20, 2010)

*Nextie's are on and blacked out..*

Thanks to Keene Signworx for the vinyl on the frame! Nextie 65's on a and ride sweet!


----------



## Mr. Fisherman (Sep 27, 2014)

*CETMA 5 rail rack etc*

Just installed my CETMA 5 rail rack. It is STOUT! Love it.









and with the commuter load...









































Better pics when I can.


----------



## gcohen (Jun 13, 2006)

matto6 said:


> How well are you able to access the short xt brake lever with the sram grip shifter on there? I'm looking my xt on my other bike and it looks like it would be way short.


I bought the long lever version for that concern. No issues with them and the grip shift. Also nice for 2 finger braking in bulky winter gloves.


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Paochow said:


> Got mine back from a warranty freehub replacement this weekend.
> 
> Added 200 grip studs to my Bud and Lou's to see how they compare to the Dillinger 5's I've been running.
> 
> ...


Got my Christmas present early and mounted up a Bluto using a Hope 150 hub. First time lacing up a wheel, but I took it slow and it went together easy. Still have the rear Hope to put on.









Got it out in the snow today before the rain melted it all. Bluto worked great, it really enhances the Fatboy's abilities. I went with the 100mm version and was concerned it would deaden the steering, but it added a bit of stability and still turned plenty quick. I've had some wrist pain and finger numbness on previous rides and the Bluto seems to have eliminated that issue. Now I'm hoping for some more snow so I can get back out on the trails.


----------



## plussa (Jul 12, 2005)

^ How cold is it where you ride? Just curious, because my fingers are warm in 0°F with just Burton snowboarding gloves


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

I'm in MN so the temp varies a lot -5 to 45 so far this winter. I usually use a thin pair of insulated motorcycle gloves under the Cobrafists and stay plenty warm even at the lower range.


----------



## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

So I've been giving thoughts to a "skinny" summer wheel/tire setup. I had been thinking about going 29+...but it looks like 650b+ would be the better fit.

40-50mm wide rim combined with the 27.5x3 panaracer fat-b-nimble should do the trick...


----------



## ibismojo2001 (Jul 21, 2006)

jcaino said:


> So I've been giving thoughts to a "skinny" summer wheel/tire setup. I had been thinking about going 29+...but it looks like 650b+ would be the better fit.
> 
> 40-50mm wide rim combined with the 27.5x3 panaracer fat-b-nimble should do the trick...


29+ fit fine if you remove the FD.


----------



## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

ibismojo2001 said:


> 29+ fit fine if you remove the FD.


I'm aware of that, but tire height is a good bit taller - I'd prefer to keep the geometry as close to as intended as possible.


----------



## mczen (Mar 9, 2008)

Noob question and I have not been able to find any info. For you who have switched to a Bluto from the stock fork, did you use the stock headset or replace it. If the headset was replaced what did you go with? Got a Bluto for Christmas and going to skip work and install while the wheel is being built. Thanks in advance for the info.


----------



## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

mczen said:


> Noob question and I have not been able to find any info. For you who have switched to a Bluto from the stock fork, did you use the stock headset or replace it. If the headset was replaced what did you go with? Got a Bluto for Christmas and going to skip work and install while the wheel is being built. Thanks in advance for the info.


Stock headset.

You'll need a crown race to go on the fork. The stock fork has one built in so you can't reuse it.


----------



## mczen (Mar 9, 2008)

Matt06, thanks for the info. Any suggestion on what crown race to use? Thanks again for the info!


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

mczen said:


> Matt06, thanks for the info. Any suggestion on what crown race to use? Thanks again for the info!


I used this one as per hans2vt's recommendation and it worked great....

Item #: 10605-67311
Description: FSA Crown Races - Orbit Xtreme-Pro 1.5"
Quantity: 1 @ $11.00

I waited 3 weeks for my LBS to tell me it was still back ordered. I ended up buying it here, but they are out of stock at the moment as well.
Universal Cycles -- FSA Crown Races

Also if you haven't installed a fork before, you will need a way to cut the stem reasonably straight and to install the star nut. I used a circular pipe cutter on the stem, which works well if you don't rush it. I used a 12" section of threaded rod, a few spare nuts and a old stem cap to pull the star nut down in place, but you could also use the star nut tool or try your luck with a socket and hammer. You will also want a longer brake line as it is very tight with a 100mm fork.


----------



## mczen (Mar 9, 2008)

Paochow, thanks for the info and link. I had not even thought about the brake line length. Have installed forks and have the pipe cutter and star nut setter. The headset is confusing with all the various configurations and options. May have to swing by my LBS and have them order me a new headset if I cannot locate a crown race. Always partial to Chris King sets.


----------



## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

Paochow said:


> I used this one as per hans2vt's recommendation and it worked great....
> 
> Item #: 10605-67311
> Description: FSA Crown Races - Orbit Xtreme-Pro 1.5"
> ...


Super helpful post, thank you!

Just to confirm, Bluto + that race + brake line is all that's needed (other than the hub) to convert the Fatboy, yes?


----------



## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

mczen said:


> Matt06, thanks for the info. Any suggestion on what crown race to use? Thanks again for the info!


Sorry just saw this. I used a cane Creek crown race that I had, because it seemed to it fine. But if you're ordering you might as well order the FSA one Paochow linked above.

BTW I kept the stock brake cable. It was just barely long enough with the 100mm bluto.


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Seventh-777 said:


> Super helpful post, thank you!
> 
> Just to confirm, Bluto + that race + brake line is all that's needed (other than the hub) to convert the Fatboy, yes?


. 
Yup that will be all you need, unless you want to add headset spacers when you add the fork.

You may or may not need the longer brake line - mine was just a tad short when the fork was fully extended, putting strain on the brake line where it met the master cylinder. Last thing I wanted was the line popping off after catching air.


----------



## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

Paochow said:


> .
> Yup that will be all you need, unless you want to add headset spacers when you add the fork.
> 
> You may or may not need the longer brake line - mine was just a tad short when the fork was fully extended, putting strain on the brake line where it met the master cylinder. Last thing I wanted was the line popping off after catching air.


Thanks very much once again!  I actually already swapped over to XTs and never got around to trimming the lines, so for once my laziness is going to work in my favor, haha.


----------



## mczen (Mar 9, 2008)

Thanks to all for the info to help complete adding the bluto. The hardest part was finding a crown race at a local shop but I did find one. The brake line was just a little to short for comfort so I added a set of XT brakes to the upgrade list. Thanks again for all the info.


----------



## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

For those adding XT's to the list, they don't play perfectly with Sram grip shifts. The brakes have pretty short levers and the grip shifts push them inward pretty far.

Are you just reaching for them, or did you both dump gripshifts too?


----------



## jester6578 (Mar 15, 2010)

I have no problem with the length of the levers, but I do have an issue with how long the included grips are. Once I swapped to a short grip shift length grip (ODI rogue currently) they were great.


----------



## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

I enjoyed reading everyone's builds. Here is mine.

1x10 with Shimano 26t ring from eBay 
Nuke proof yellow pedals
Thudbuster
BLUTO with salsa hub and rebuild original rim
Home made fender
Gravity lite bar
Bar mitts. Oh so warm. 

Next I want 29+ rims for summer.


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

hans2vt said:


> I enjoyed reading everyone's builds. Here is mine.
> 
> 1x10 with Shimano 26t ring from eBay
> Nuke proof yellow pedals
> ...


Nice looking ride! I like your homemade fender- where did you get the plastic? The thudbuster is next on my upgrade list.


----------



## mtbpri (Feb 1, 2009)

Were you able to use the same spokes with the new salsa front hub?


----------



## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

mtbpri said:


> Were you able to use the same spokes with the new salsa front hub?


Yes. The spoke nipples too of course.


----------



## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

Paochow said:


> Nice looking ride! I like your homemade fender- where did you get the plastic? The thudbuster is next on my upgrade list.


Amazon per recommendation from someone else on MTBR

It's a flexible cutting board.


----------



## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

New carbon hoops from LB.


----------



## Cutlass454 (Apr 6, 2009)

hans2vt said:


> I enjoyed reading everyone's builds. Here is mine.
> 
> 1x10 with Shimano 26t ring from eBay
> Nuke proof yellow pedals
> ...


Hans, how did you install the Bar Mitts? I got a pair for Christmas. According to the directions, you velcro inside to the bar ends. I've got the stock grip shifters without any bar ends. Just curious how you mounted yours.


----------



## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

Here are the two mounting points. Outside and inside. My first ride I didn't even know there was velcro strip inside to go around the bar end! Now I make sure the red is on TOP and Velcro wraps around under neath.

Here is right bar mit


----------



## Cutlass454 (Apr 6, 2009)

Great pics!!! That is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!!!


----------



## ADKMTNBIKER (Nov 29, 2014)

hans2vt said:


> Here are the two mounting points. Outside and inside. My first ride I didn't even know there was velcro strip inside to go around the bar end! Now I make sure the red is on TOP and Velcro wraps around under neath.
> 
> Here is right bar mit
> 
> ...


my friend with a fatboy just got these and loves them.


----------



## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

Upgrades finished for a while Thompson layback post, Selle italia flite carbonio, renthal carbon lite fat bars, XO twisters and esi chunkies


----------



## qBot (Jan 16, 2015)

Upgraded to Bluto 100 mm and XT M785 brakes - feels so much better now compared to the stock brakes! More speed, less hands fatigue, single finger breaking with no crappy sounds.

Relaced the front wheel at a local bike store using the Hope Evo 2 fatsno 15x150 hub. Bluto works very well so far, haven't tested it below -5 C, yet.

Next to come are: XT RT86 rotors, tubeless (Dillinger 5) and XT pedals. 
And I'm selling the original (black/yellow) carbon fork with just 170 km for $300 (specialized website says it's $400 brand new). The hub comes as a free bonus 

I've also bought a cheap singletrack mudflap to see how it could save my back from getting wet on winter asphalt.


----------



## qBot (Jan 16, 2015)

Does anybody know if the stock "s series" grip shift (on my 2014 fatboy) is compatible with the new type 2 (2.1) rear derailleurs?


----------



## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

qBot said:


> Does anybody know if the stock "s series" grip shift (on my 2014 fatboy) is compatible with the new type 2 (2.1) rear derailleurs?


It will work with the SRAM clutch derailleurs, yes. Won't work Shimano, though.

The SRAM 10 speed rear derailleurs all have the same actuation ration, mountain and road, clutch-type or not


----------



## thecanoe (Jan 30, 2007)

hans2vt said:


> I enjoyed reading everyone's builds. Here is mine.
> 
> 1x10 with Shimano 26t ring from eBay
> 
> ...


----------



## skr29er (Jan 14, 2012)

Upgrade to: Easton EC70 carbon bars, Thomson stem and seat post, Shimano XT brakes, Ice Tech rotors, RaceFace Next SL crank w/28T RaceFace direct mount ring, SRAM XO1 grip shift, XO1 rear derailleur,. XD driver, XO1 11-42 cassette. XL frame. 29.75lbs ready to ride with bottle cages, computer and pedals.

Going tubeless next...


----------



## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

thecanoe said:


> hans2vt said:
> 
> 
> > I enjoyed reading everyone's builds. Here is mine.
> ...


----------



## Jumbo62 (Dec 11, 2013)

Here is my size L 2014 Fatboy. Changes I've made include a Raceface Next handlebar with 20 mm rise, Race Face seat post, XT brakes, XT Ice Tech rotors, and Nextie 65 mm rims with Hope Fatsno hubs set up tubeless. Bike weighs right around 27 lbs.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

Jumbo62 said:


> Here is my size L 2014 Fatboy. Changes I've made include a Raceface Next handlebar with 20 mm rise, Race Face seat post, XT brakes, XT Ice Tech rotors, and Nextie 65 mm rims with Hope Fatsno hubs set up tubeless. Bike weighs right around 27 lbs.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow swapped wheels. Do you have a comparison on front and rear wheels weights - stock compared to Nextie?


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## bozofs (Aug 20, 2010)

nice!


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## Jumbo62 (Dec 11, 2013)

Hans2vt, the stock wheels were 6 lb 15 oz front, 7 lb 15 oz rear with 26 x 2.4-2.7 Q tubes. The new wheels are 6 lb 1 oz front and 6 lb 11 oz rear set up tubeless using Orange Subzero sealant. The Ground Control tires I used had different weights. One was 3 lb 2 oz, the other 3 lb 6 oz. I think the heavy one ended up on the front.


----------



## qBot (Jan 16, 2015)

I've decided to upgrade my RD to X9 type 2.1. I've got a 2014 year model. Should I stick with medium cage or would short/long be fine as well?


----------



## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Does anyone know if the Specialized Bennie pedals are lighter than the plastic pedals that come on the base Fatboy?

Or is there a less expensive pedal that is lighter?


----------



## qBot (Jan 16, 2015)

And one more thing: given that I plan to go 1x10 (with the biggest cassette sprocket being 42) one day, which cage length is better? And would x9 type 2. RD manage 42 teeth? I've found an x9 type 2.1 short cage nearby, so I'm wondering if it would be good for a 1x10 12-42 cassette... 

Would 28 chainring (inner) work with a stock (samox) crankset?


----------



## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

qBot said:


> And one more thing: given that I plan to go 1x10 (with the biggest cassette sprocket being 42) one day, which cage length is better? And would x9 type 2. RD manage 42 teeth? I've found an x9 type 2.1 short cage nearby, so I'm wondering if it would be good for a 1x10 12-42 cassette...
> 
> Would 28 chainring (inner) work with a stock (samox) crankset?


I'm running the OneUp 42T kit that also comes with a 16T cog. You pull off the 15 & 17, put the 16 in the middle and 42T at the end. I'm running the stock SRAM Med Cage X7 derailleur which is a clutch or 2.1. No modifications needed to be made to the RD and it shifts great. I went with a RaceFace N/W 30T up front and don't know if you can go with a 28.


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## Turgor (Mar 17, 2010)

*2015 fatboy SL*















Mods include
eggbeater 3 pedals
Cobalt 11 740mm bar
Dillinger 4 tires
Weight 22.46lbs


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## turkish_sp (Nov 11, 2008)

Last upgrade:










Race Face Narrow Wide 30 teeth
X01 cassette
X01 rear derailleur 
XX1 trigger shifter

13,3 kg / 29.3 pounds


----------



## Melll (Jan 25, 2015)

My new Fatboy 24:









Ugraded cassette to 12-36t with 40t OneUp cog (works with 9 speed/med cage rear derailleur), new seat post & pedals on the way.


----------



## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

turkish_sp said:


> Last upgrade:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What length stem do you have on there? looks nice by the way


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## robertdavid (May 31, 2012)

Melll said:


> My new Fatboy 24:
> 
> View attachment 961770
> 
> ...


That is a cool looking bike. Know you will love it.


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## SworksDan (Nov 29, 2011)

Melll said:


> My new Fatboy 24:
> 
> View attachment 961770
> 
> ...


Jus Picked one up for my 9 yr old daughter.. love the drivetrain Mod..


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

Turgor said:


> View attachment 961395
> View attachment 961396
> 
> 
> ...


I'm curious how you got it that low?!? The tire change should only be 400g from the stock GC's


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## fatboy43 (May 4, 2008)

Looks like the Fatboy SL model...SL standing for superlight. It's somewhere around 24 out of the box I believe


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## Melll (Jan 25, 2015)

robertdavid said:


> That is a cool looking bike. Know you will love it.


Thanks 



SworksDan said:


> Jus Picked one up for my 9 yr old daughter.. love the drivetrain Mod..


I'm sure she'll love it too!

And I am very, very happy with the drivetrain mod: I couldn't imagine trying to climb up the steep snowy ascents here with only the stock 11-34t.

With that said, I don't know how much kids actually use their gears, though...


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

fatboy43 said:


> Looks like the Fatboy SL model...SL standing for superlight. It's somewhere around 24 out of the box I believe


I get that it's the Fatboy SL, I have the same bike. I've also changed all of my bolts to titanium, installed a lighter stem, switched the saddle to a full carbon s-works phenom and set up the wheels tubeless and it went from 26 lbs stock to 24 lbs. so like I said I'm curious how it's so light.


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## Turgor (Mar 17, 2010)

MichaelHumpal said:


> I get that it's the Fatboy SL, I have the same bike. I've also changed all of my bolts to titanium, installed a lighter stem, switched the saddle to a full carbon s-works phenom and set up the wheels tubeless and it went from 26 lbs stock to 24 lbs. so like I said I'm curious how it's so light.


Out of the box the bike was 26lbs.
I changed the bar to the Cobalt 11 with foam grips and went tubeless with the GC's
*24.2lbs*
I replaced all the bolts in the frame with rotor bolts, replaced the front and rear skewer ends with bontrager Aluminum ones. Specialized replaced the rear hub with a I9, and I went tubeless with Dillinger 4s.
*22.48lbs*
When we get more snow the GCs are going back on as they are much better than the Dillingers in soft snow.
All the weights are with eggbeater 3s on the bike.


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## qBot (Jan 16, 2015)

My impression so far is that D5 is better than GC in all conditions including snow.


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## Turgor (Mar 17, 2010)

qBot said:


> My impression so far is that D5 is better than GC in all conditions including snow.


Personally I find the Dillinger 4s have a lot more self steer and are not nearly as predictable as the GCs when sliding the bike around. A few of the guys I ride with who have D5s feel the same way.


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## qBot (Jan 16, 2015)

My impression is quite on the opposite side: my GCs had lots of self-steering which is zero on my D5s. Might be because I now have Bluto, so on average tire pressure is higher than I used to have with a rigid fork.
Besides all that I don't think comparing a 4.6 and 4 tire is correct. 4.8 D5 is slightly narrower than 4.6 GC, so they're very close.


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

Turgor said:


> Out of the box the bike was 26lbs.
> I changed the bar to the Cobalt 11 with foam grips and went tubeless with the GC's
> *24.2lbs*
> I replaced all the bolts in the frame with rotor bolts, replaced the front and rear skewer ends with bontrager Aluminum ones. Specialized replaced the rear hub with a I9, and I went tubeless with Dillinger 4s.
> ...


You sound like a weight weenie like me! Sounds like we had similar ideas on shedding weight. Did Specialized swap hubs right from thew get go? or did your OEM hub break that fast?


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## Turgor (Mar 17, 2010)

MichaelHumpal said:


> You sound like a weight weenie like me! Sounds like we had similar ideas on shedding weight. Did Specialized swap hubs right from thew get go? or did your OEM hub break that fast?


I had reoccurring freehub issues. Specialized was good enough to replace the hub.


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

Got my 100mm Bluto on, along with F/R Hope hubs.

If anyone's interested in my (medium, matte carbon) stock fork + front hub, shoot me a PM.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

*2015 Specialized Fatboy Upgrades*

2015 Fatboy SE (Large)
- Fatboy Expert Carbon Fork w/ 7.5" steerer (matte black)
- Q-Tubes SL 26x2.4-2.7
- Surly rim strips (black, 64mm)
- Thomson straight seat post & collar
- Thomson 60mm stem
- Wellgo MG-1 Magnesium platform pedals

Next up:
- Renthal Fatbar Lite
- XT Brakes
- Ergon GS1 grips
- WTB Ti saddle
- Tubeless?
- Bluto this summer










High res here:

__
https://flic.kr/p/6


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

Looks great man! Glad you found a fork in the right size!


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## DeepVI (May 9, 2011)

Swapped the stock bar/stem for 800mm Race Face SIXC bars and 50mm Atlas stem. It's really nice. Takes some of the twitchiness away and provides more leverage for that big gyroscope of a front wheel.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Glad to see my old fork put to good use!
It's actually off a standard green Fatboy. I believe it's the only model with the matte fork!


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## fatboy43 (May 4, 2008)

Excuse the question in advance if it is a bit ignorant....I'm not really up on all the parts and pieces....never really bothered with it before, now however I seem to have the bug. 

The question: if I change my E13 cranks to RF Next Sl what are the steps involed? I would like to kept my 2x setup but am assuming based on this site that I will need a new bottom bracket. Which one and are there other things I might need to finish the upgrade? I would hate to get into the middle of this and realize I can't finish because I do not have the right stuff. If my bike is sitting around the house without cranks the wife might ask questions


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## qBot (Jan 16, 2015)

Has anybody tried installing a 30T chainring into the inner side of the samox crankset (64 bcd)? Would there be enough space?


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## qBot (Jan 16, 2015)

My answer: 28T chainring made of steel (shimano alivio) fits in perfectly and there's enough room for a 30T or even a 32T.


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

I run a 30T Hope narrow wide fine


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Sounds like Raceface will have a narrow/wide chainring 24T/26T amd 64 BCD diameter available soon.

This would bolt right up on my Fatboy inner ring spot and I could install a bash ring on the outer.

http://www.bikerumor.com/2015/01/21...with-new-24t-narrow-wide-ring-and-bash-guard/


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## qBot (Jan 16, 2015)

What's the use of a bash ring?

So far my combo (X0 type 2 RD, inner 28T acera chainring and 11-42 sram 1030+e*thirteen) works fine except for one thing: when I pedal hard on the 42 it makes some skipping sounds. Has anybody experienced that kind of thing? I'm not sure if that was the reason, but I broke my new 1050 chain today. I suspect that the stiffness of e13 is not enough, so it bends a bit...


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

qBot said:


> What's the use of a bash ring?


Bashguard - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


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## qBot (Jan 16, 2015)

What kind of bearings does the original front hub have? Are they cassette?


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## Cape Codder (Jan 16, 2014)

*FatBoy leading the Parade.*


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## DeepVI (May 9, 2011)

No so much an upgrade... It is a picture though.


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## iscariot (Oct 24, 2006)

DeepVI said:


> No so much an upgrade... It is a picture though.
> View attachment 965454


Those look like the new Fox next SL cranks with the built in extra vertical compliance.


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## wrc2006 (Nov 2, 2007)

DeepVI discovered user adjustable q-factor cranks! Spread the word!

In all seriousness, that sucks. I hope RF takes care of you if it wasn't operator error.


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## barecover (Feb 13, 2015)

Fatboy SE

Upgraded: 
1x10 setup with e13 32T
Chinese Carbon bars
Black Rim Strips
Tektro Draco 2 Brakes

Ultimately looking to upgrade to tubeless and carbon fork but happy for now. Loving the all black look.


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## DeepVI (May 9, 2011)

Just got the call back from my shop. RF has never seen them break like this,so they want them back for evaluation. I was on a smooth trail in Oklahoma. No hucking or rock smashing. Just pinned in a corner with the outside foot weighted.


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## exp18 (Feb 15, 2012)

I love when a manufactory says ( never seen one break like that before ) I guess you just have to call yourself lucky. Too bad you weren’t in Vegas that day you were so lucky. Hope they replace it for you.


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

New Hope FatSno hubs (courtesy of Specialized) to replace the junk hubs that came on my bike.
Just got the bike back yesterday, so I haven't had a chance to ride it yet, but will be heading out to the beach this afternoon.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

I thought the rear hub was the only issue? I see they gave you a front hub as well.


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## Elkonquistador (Jul 24, 2014)

Finally got some miles with the Bluto 100. Best upgrade so far. Makes the rocky Las Vegas trails much more fun. Since the regular 100 was out of stock, went with the remote lockout version. Really useful feature when standing pedaling while climbing. Also integrates nicely with the X9 shifter.



















Mods so far: 100mm Bluto/remote lockout with color match decals, Hope Fatsno 150 front hub, 30T chainring 1x10, X9 shifter, Shimano XT brakes with Ice Tech rotors, blue rim strips and other accents.


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## Melll (Jan 25, 2015)

Elkonquistador said:


> Finally got some miles with the Bluto 100. Best upgrade so far. Makes the rocky Las Vegas trails much more fun. Since the regular 100 was out of stock, went with the remote lockout version. Really useful feature when standing pedaling while climbing. Also integrates nicely with the X9 shifter.
> View attachment 967018
> 
> Mods so far: 100mm Bluto/remote lockout with color match decals, Hope Fatsno 150 front hub, 30T chainring 1x10, X9 shifter, Shimano XT brakes with Ice Tech rotors, blue rim strips and other accents.


Lookin' good!


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Installed Surly Ultra-light tubes and red specialized rim strips. Shaved about 2 lbs off the tire weight with the tube change.


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## Stump 29 (Dec 12, 2009)

Quick Question -

Has anyone mounted this on the Expert? Stock cranks.. I think i can, I think I can..

And do I need a spacer to maintain proper chain line?



About to service my BB and may switch to 1X. Thanks in advance. :thumbsup:


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

It will mount up and your chainline will be off by 6mm (66 instead of a more ideal 72 for 190 hubs). I tried this ring and ended up with a standard 4 bolt 94 30 tooth. That'll give you an almost perfect chainline on the oem e*thirteen cranks.


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## Stump 29 (Dec 12, 2009)

Thanks for the quick reply cycloxer. I'm looking for a cleaner set-up (no bolts). There's got to be a way to adjust the spacing? 

Thanks again. Google is not helping tonight.


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## dirt-nerd (Aug 12, 2009)

prj71- Wow almost 2 pounds, that's awesome! I was wondering what the difference was to stock tubes. I just got my Fatboy last week & I think I'll be stopping by lbs to pick up the Surly Tubes today!

Thanks


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

prj71 said:


> Installed Surly Ultra-light tubes and red specialized rim strips. Shaved about 2 lbs off the tire weight with the tube change.


How heavy were your stock tubes? My stock Specialized tubes were 515gr, with the replacements Spec 26x2.3-3.0 tubes weighing 270gr, so 245gr(~.5#) saved per tire. Were the earlier Specialized tubes heavier?


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

Elkonquistador said:


> Finally got some miles with the Bluto 100. Best upgrade so far. Makes the rocky Las Vegas trails much more fun. Since the regular 100 was out of stock, went with the remote lockout version. Really useful feature when standing pedaling while climbing. Also integrates nicely with the X9 shifter.
> 
> Nice! I just got in some x9 shifters today. Good to know they work well with the XT brakes.


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## Chinman (Dec 27, 2014)

*New studded snowshoe xl*

Bought some studded Snowshoe XLs for my Brundlefly Fatboy SE. No chance to ride them yet, but weight and size is nearly identical to GCs. I measured 1460-1470 g per tire for the Snowshoes. My GC's are 1490-1500 g.


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## etetro (Feb 11, 2013)

I run Daves Mud Shovels front and rear on my FayBoy for protection from the grime- they work great and pop off really easy when you don't want to run them.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

dirt-nerd said:


> prj71- Wow almost 2 pounds, that's awesome! I was wondering what the difference was to stock tubes. I just got my Fatboy last week & I think I'll be stopping by lbs to pick up the Surly Tubes today!
> 
> Thanks


My miscalculation. 1.34 lbs overall.

Make sure you pick up the Ultra Light Tubes. They will read .8mm on the box.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Paochow said:


> How heavy were your stock tubes? My stock Specialized tubes were 515gr,


According to this thread the stock tubes weigh 615 grams (1.35 lbs). The Surly Ultra Lights claimed weight is 310 grams (.68 lbs)

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/specialized-fat-boy-wheel-tire-weights-photos-893957.html



> with the replacements Spec 26x2.3-3.0 tubes weighing 270gr, so 245gr(~.5#) saved per tire.


Will those stretch and fill the tire out?


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Yeah the 26x2.3-3 will stretch out and fill it up fine. I've been running a set from 3psi to 15 psi since last August. I think next time I may even try the 24" tubes as they will be slightly lighter and not balloon up as bad when overinflated.

I saw the 615gr weight reference as well, seems Specialized changed the weight at some point, my scale is within 5gr of my Alpine scale and those at the Post Office so the 515gr should be spot on.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I've been running 24x2.4 tubes in mine. Was planning on doing the split tube tubeless, but ended up just using them as regular tubes for now.


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

Turgor said:


> I had reoccurring freehub issues. Specialized was good enough to replace the hub.


What kinda issues exactly?


----------



## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

Anyone have any clever downtube protectors installed on their FB? I'm not sure what the heck I'm supposed to mount to those two bolts on the underside, and wouldn't mind getting a proper composite protector down there.


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

I looked last fall for one, but couldn't find anything at the time. I ended up putting some 16mil clear vinyl on it to protect it from rock chips, but it probably won't do anything for big hits.


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

Paochow said:


> I looked last fall for one, but couldn't find anything at the time. I ended up putting some 16mil clear vinyl on it to protect it from rock chips, but it probably won't do anything for big hits.


I'm going to take the Prime gamble one one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Zefal-Armor-F...1425433868&sr=8-5&keywords=downtube+protector

Won't be wide enough for the whole BB but we'll see how it goes.


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## qBot (Jan 16, 2015)

Finally finished with all the upgrades:
- XT brakes, rotors (ice tech), pedals
- X0 type 2 RD
- SRAM 1051 chain and 1050 cassette (11-36)
- converted to 1x10 11-42 using Abo****eBLACK 30T (64 bcd) and E*13 42T extender cog
- Hope Evo 2 Pro fatsno rear/front hubs (changed my rear hub to avoid problems with the stock one in advance)
- Dillinger 5 studded tires

Planned:
- command seat post
- carbon rims + tubular


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

Are the hope hubs lighter than the stock ones? I'm getting a hope fatsno this week with my bluto, can't wait.


----------



## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

my final upgrade.. hope fatsno rear hub.. free from spesh..









upgrades done so far

- bluto 80mm
- salsa front hub
- xt brakes
- xt icetech rotors (203mm f / 180mm r)
- reverb dropper seatpost
- e.thirteen cranks (free from spesh)
- xo type 2 rear derailleur
- xt cassette
- xt chain

i have the yellow base fatboy.. "base" no more..


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## qBot (Jan 16, 2015)

Still having issues with e*thirteen 42T and Sram X0 type 2: clicking noises and skipping occurs when I pedal hard. I'm now using an AbsoluteBLACK 30T narrow-wide in front (64 BCD), but that haven't solved the problems. It looks to be that the problem is with lower pulley of the RD. Has anybody been using 42T from e*13 with X0 type 2?


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

av8or said:


> my final upgrade.. hope fatsno rear hub.. free from spesh..
> 
> View attachment 969849
> 
> ...


I think your drive side spokes are laced wrong


----------



## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

MichaelHumpal said:


> I think your drive side spokes are laced wrong


how so? j bend inside instead of out? looks and rolls good to me


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

av8or said:


> how so? j bend inside instead of out? looks and rolls good to me


Driveside is not crossed correctly they went under when they should have went over


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

MichaelHumpal said:


> Driveside is not crossed correctly they went under when they should have went over


is that bad? any difference between under and over? i trust my lbs that they did it right but if it will be a problem down the road i need for them to fix it, assuming it was laced wrong.. thanks..


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

I'd tell them to fix it now. disc brake force vs. drive force is different


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

MichaelHumpal said:


> I'd tell them to fix it now. disc brake force vs. drive force is different


i need to know if it was indeed laced incorrectly.. or if it even matters on a fatbike.. or if they are supposed to be that way, before i go to my lbs.. thanks anyway..


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

av8or said:


> i need to know if it was indeed laced incorrectly.. or if it even matters on a fatbike.. or if they are supposed to be that way, before i go to my lbs.. thanks anyway..


I mean do an internet search about disc brake wheels or better yet hold it up to another fatboy wheel at the shop.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Here is a good pic of the stock wheels to compare to:Specialized Bicycle Components

Adobe Scene7 Zoom

On the drive side notice that the spokes that have the spoke portion on the inside of the hub flange (spoke nub towards sprocket) are running forward as the wheel rotates and those that have the spoke portion on the outside of the hub flange (spoke nub towards disc) are facing backward as the wheel rolls. On your pic it appears they are opposite.


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## aredemann (Oct 9, 2009)

jredling said:


> Are the hope hubs lighter than the stock ones? I'm getting a hope fatsno this week with my bluto, can't wait.


Doing the same next week. LBS highly recommends to use new spokes. The wheel is only 2 weeks old and I was planning to use the old spokes again.
What do you guys think?


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

Paochow said:


> Here is a good pic of the stock wheels to compare to:Specialized Bicycle Components
> 
> Adobe Scene7 Zoom
> 
> On the drive side notice that the spokes that have the spoke portion on the inside of the hub flange (spoke nub towards sprocket) are running forward as the wheel rotates and those that have the spoke portion on the outside of the hub flange (spoke nub towards disc) are facing backward as the wheel rolls. On your pic it appears they are opposite.


can you confirm that on your fatboy? nubs inside, spoke facing rear? i was looking at a video on bike tube and they show nubs in, spokes front.. on how to lace a rim on mountain bike drive side..

Lacing a Rear 32 Spoke Wheel | How to Build a Bicycle Wheel | TheBikeTube.com


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

MichaelHumpal said:


> I mean do an internet search about disc brake wheels or better yet hold it up to another fatboy wheel at the shop.


i called up another lbs here and asked about the "nub in, spoke rear".. they it should face rear but added doesn't really matter that much.. they said if i bring it in they will relace it if i want to..


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

av8or said:


> can you confirm that on your fatboy? nubs inside, spoke facing rear? i was looking at a video on bike tube and they show nubs in, spokes front.. on how to lace a rim on mountain bike drive side..
> 
> Lacing a Rear 32 Spoke Wheel | How to Build a Bicycle Wheel | TheBikeTube.com


Yeah, mine is the same as the factory: nubs inside-spokes rear. I used the same lacing pattern as the factory wheel when I did mine.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

jredling said:


> Are the hope hubs lighter than the stock ones? I'm getting a hope fatsno this week with my bluto, can't wait.


I didn't weight my front before I sold it, but my rear wheel was about 95gr lighter after switching to the Hope 190. YMMV depending on what axle your stock hub has.


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

It's heads in trailing spoke versus heads out. With 32 hole 3X and large flange it doesn't really matter.


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

cycloxer13 said:


> It's heads in trailing spoke versus heads out. With 32 hole 3X and large flange it doesn't really matter.


that's what i was told.. so you think i should just leave it alone and just ride?..


----------



## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Yes. Some people actually prefer heads out trailing as it puts less stress on the hub flange due to slightly reduced spoke angle. Of course this is at the expense of a tiny reduction in bracing angle. Regardless, you are talking minute differences and different wheel builders would have differing opinions anyway.

If the wheel is true and sound, I would leave it alone.


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

thanks.. wheel is true and correct.. thanks for everyones input in this..


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## qBot (Jan 16, 2015)

Which cassette sprocket corresponds to your chainline?
Just realized that mine is 6. I thought it would be much closer to the wheel actually, since I'm using a 64 mm chainring (stock Samox 2x10 system).
Which sprocket would that be for a 1x system?


----------



## Makten (Feb 25, 2014)

The cassette on the Fatboy SE is a disaster. This is what the freewheel/hub body looks like after 10 hours of riding. 









Also, the locking nut of the cassette is flush with the washer that is pressed against the frame when the QR is tightened, which makes the nut itself rub on the frame! I wonder if someone was drunk when they assembled my bike. Can't figure out how to get the cassette further inwards, even if there is plenty of space before hitting the spokes.


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## DAVID J (Feb 25, 2004)

Looks like there is a thin metal washer up tight against the inside of the free hub. Pull that off and you should be good to go.


----------



## Makten (Feb 25, 2014)

DAVID J said:


> Looks like there is a thin metal washer up tight against the inside of the free hub. Pull that off and you should be good to go.


Did that and it gave me ~0.5 mm clearance. Which works, but on every other bike I have there is plenty of space.


----------



## -camber (May 17, 2012)

lots of upgrades have been made, here are a few of them just to get started..


----------



## carbonLORD (Jun 9, 2007)

The XD Driver is a much better solution. Even on road bikes with a Shimano freehib body, I use a SRAM Power Dome for this very reason.


----------



## Pauldotcom (Aug 15, 2010)

Nice fork! Just picked up a SE model and LOVE it. If anyone wants to part with their carbon fork, drop me a line 

[email protected]


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## Stump 29 (Dec 12, 2009)

Jumped on the 1X bandwagon.

Slapped on the 30T E*13 direct mount ring.

Guidering M Direct Mount | the hive

Lost 3/4 of a pound. Did not add anything to my 11-36 cassette.

So far, so good.

:band:


----------



## Louie Escobar (Jul 6, 2014)

1x10 conversion, 42T Cog, KMC - Red chain, Handle bar, stem and seat post.


----------



## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

Had to retire the ground controls after 8 mos almost daily usage on trails and roads.. Needed a rear tire ( front still ok ) but decided to replace both tires with 45north dillinger 5..


----------



## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

av8or said:


> Had to retire the ground controls after 8 mos almost daily usage on trails and roads.. Needed a rear tire ( front still ok ) but decided to replace both tires with 45north dillinger 5..
> 
> View attachment 973163


Nice looking tires. I'll be curious how you feel they perform vs GC in various conditions.

That is why I switched to Vee8 tires for summer use. I saved GC for winter snow which doesn't wear them much.


----------



## KarlP (Dec 3, 2006)

Here are my upgrades so far;
SLX Brakes
Easton Haven Stem
XO Twisties
X9 Rear Derailleur
XT Cassette
Sram 1091 Chain
XT Clipless Trail Pedals
Tires Set up Tubeless
Selle Italia Yutaak Saddle

More to come!


----------



## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

KarlP said:


> Here are my upgrades so far;
> SLX Brakes
> Easton Haven Stem
> XO Twisties
> ...


Do the SLX brakes have noticeably better stopping power than the crappy stock brakes?


----------



## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

03'Darin said:


> Do the SLX brakes have noticeably better stopping power than the crappy stock brakes?


If you have the stock Tektros, then GODYES!

There's a lot of testament to that if you go through this thread.


----------



## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

hans2vt said:


> Nice looking tires. I'll be curious how you feel they perform vs GC in various conditions.
> 
> That is why I switched to Vee8 tires for summer use. I saved GC for winter snow which doesn't wear them much.


quieter than the gc's on the trail.. i had a puncture last sunday on the gc's and again yesterday on the d5 so had to buy another one (sigh, tire was only a day old).. downhill on some small jumps and on the third jump i landed on a stick about an inch thick.. punctured my tire and exited thru the sidewall.. same thing happened on my gc's the day before except the stick did not exited anywhere.. bought a patching kit at an automotive store and patched up the d5 so i have another extra tire..


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

jcaino said:


> If you have the stock Tektros, then GODYES!
> 
> There's a lot of testament to that if you go through this thread.


I do have the stock Tektro's and even in the snow they struggle to lock the rear tire up. Now that our snow is almost completely gone and we'll be rolling clear trail I'm sure I'll hate these brakes even more. Ive been trying to figure out what the best bang for the buck hydraulic replacement was but have yet to make a decision.

Did you replace rotors also?


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

03'Darin said:


> Did you replace rotors also?


Not initially, as the shop got me the brakes before the rotors came in and set them up for free with the original rotors. The difference was noticeable on the first ride. The Icetech rotors are definitely a worthwhile upgrade, too.


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## cardnation (Jul 2, 2014)

03'Darin said:


> I do have the stock Tektro's and even in the snow they struggle to lock the rear tire up.


If this is true, yours are not setup correctly.

The tektros take a little more effort, but can get the job done.


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

cardnation said:


> If this is true, yours are not setup correctly.
> 
> The tektros take a little more effort, but can get the job done.


That probably wasn't a completely fair statement. I can lock the rear wheel up but it takes considerable effort. Riding Hayes and Avid's the last few years these Tektros take way more effort than I like to stop. I've done a few short steep down hill trails in the snow and couldn't believe how much effort the brakes require to slow the bike down.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I thought the stock Tektros were bad. Even after a proper break in, then weren't the greatest. I switched to SLX brakes with stock rotors for a bit and they were loud, so I swapped to SLX rotors and all has been great. Quiet and fairly powerful. 

For sand and snow riding I thought the Tektros were fine, but once I started aggressively trail riding the Fatboy I found the brakes were lacking in power to bring those big wheels to a stop quickly.


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

Mr. Lynch said:


> For sand and snow riding I thought the Tektros were fine, but once I started aggressively trail riding the Fatboy I found the brakes were lacking in power to bring those big wheels to a stop quickly.


This is what I'm expecting. They were not very good for snow riding so I'm expecting now that the snow is melting they'll really show how weak they are. I was going to take them off after the first ride but figured I'd see if they improved after some break in. They did improve but only ever so slightly.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

A couple weeks ago I took my fatboy (with bluto) on a trail I normally ride my 6" bike on. Even the SLX brakes struggled a bit to slow down that wheels. Its stuff that I normally dont ride my fatboy on but I wanted to see how it would perform. If I rode a lot of stuff like that on my Fatboy I'd probably want 200mm rotors and Zee brakes, but for everything else the SLX have been amazing and more than enough.


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

Any chance you know what hose lengths your new brakes have?

I've been on line shopping and found a pretty good deal on a set of Avid Elixir CR's with 185MM rotors. Hose lengths are 825 and 1325. I'm running these brakes with 160 rotors on my 29er and they work well. I also plan on adding a suspension fork so I'm curious what hose length that may require.


----------



## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

My Tektro pads & rotors needed to be decontaminated/delaminated after about 500 miles of riding. This consisted of heating the rotors up with a propane torch, sanding them down with emery cloth, and a alcohol wipe down. This "fixed" the brakes for about 5 more rides. I had my LBS pull them off last week and install a set of SRAM Guide RS brakes with Centerline Rotors. The brakes are now quiet, rotors more true, and stop on a dime. 

I'm quite pleased with the upgrade.


----------



## Slider09 (Oct 28, 2004)

*In a thread filled with awesome builds this is the one! Nice!!*

Probably my dream build. Congrats!



carbonLORD said:


>


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## DG40 (Feb 5, 2014)

03'Darin said:


> Do the SLX brakes have noticeably better stopping power than the crappy stock brakes?


Just throwing it out there.
Also had problems with the weak brakes on my SE. Found good price on Shimano m615's from merlincycles.com. Apparently very similar to SLX just a bit heavier. HUGE difference. I just ordered another set for my other bike.
$92 shipped. first set arrived in 10 working days.
Shimano Deore M615 Disc Brakes - Front & Rear Set | Merlin Cycles

Edit: Oh and they take the Ice Tech rotor's and brake pads.


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

DG40 said:


> Just throwing it out there.
> Also had problems with the weak brakes on my SE. Found good price on Shimano m615's from merlincycles.com. Apparently very similar to SLX just a bit heavier. HUGE difference. I just ordered another set for my other bike.
> $92 shipped. first set arrived in 10 working days.
> Shimano Deore M615 Disc Brakes - Front & Rear Set | Merlin Cycles
> ...


Did you use them on the stock rotors or did you replace the rotors also?

The Avid's I'm looking at come with 185MM rotors and adapters but are $47 more for the set.

I'm curious if I just bought a set of brakes if I'd be able to use the stock rotors??


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## DG40 (Feb 5, 2014)

I'm using stock rotors for now and work fine. If I had the extra cash I'd get the ice tech rotors in the same order as their prices can't be beat.


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

I bumped up to one piece SLX rotors and they have a little better bite than the RT56 rotors that come with the bike.


----------



## BenjiCX (Jun 27, 2013)

Just replaced the bottom bracket bearings, I'm running the orange one with the nylon pf30 cups, the bearings that are in the cups are bb30 size and came out easily with a blind bearing puller and new ones pressed in with a headset press. The original ones only managed to live for 150 miles of wet muddy bouncy fun.


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## dirt-nerd (Aug 12, 2009)

Upgraded to RACEFACE Turbine Cinch with 170 spindle after lbs ordered a 190 which was way too wide. 
XT Brakes with 203/180 disc- glad I went with the bigger discs!!
Reverb
I also went for the SWAT bottle cage/allen wrench, I use it more than I thought.
Bike is great!


----------



## reig3 (Apr 24, 2012)

I have a green large comp that I have changed a few things on.

ENVE carbon riser bar
Easton carbon seat post
XT brakes and Ice tech rotors one size up
DMR Vault pedals, in green of course<g>

X9 triggers on the way.

The Peddler bike shop had a short race on the beach yesterday and there were some NEXTIE wheel sets on the sand. Both guys loved their wheels. Might be my nextie upgrade.

Bob


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## JASESPESH (Nov 19, 2014)

Just a few upgrades
Haven carbon bars
3t stem
Xt & ice tech brakes
Xtr trigger
Zee cage
Sweet mud catcher
Dropper post
Bluto forks 80mm (not tried them yet)

Awaiting on my Hope fatso hub.
Decals for forks
esi extra chunky grips


----------



## aredemann (Oct 9, 2009)

Finally got my new Fatboy all dialed in:
Enve XC bars uncut
Syntace carbon seat post 
2.3-3.0 S. inner tubes
Front: Fat B, Rear: Vee Mission 
Thomson 100mm stem
XT RD and levers
XT Brakes/Rotor
Bluto w/Hope Hub

For now I am staying with the 2x10 OE crank, I do like the extra gearing when pulling the baby trailer. BB bearings were already rusty and need to be replaced, cups had to be epoxied. 
I was surprised that the Bluto came with all 4 bottom less tokens already installed. Could not figure out why the suspension was so rough, even at 90psi ( I am around 185lbs). Removed all of them and are running 85 psi with 25% sag at the moment. 
The Fat B nimble will go on the rear and the GC will go back up front. 
The Mission was a waste of $$

In Case s.o. is interested. I am selling my carbon fork and all other parts that came of the bike


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

Well I was planning on waiting to attempt the tubeless conversion until someone came out with a good rim strip and I didn't have to go with one of the tape methods. That was until my first non snow ride on this bike last Sunday. We weren't 1/2 mile into the ride and I got a flat tire from a thorn. After swapping back to the stock tube (I had been running the lighter Specialized 2.5 - 3.0 tube) and taking what seemed like 10 minutes to pump the tire up with my hand pump I decided I was going tubeless. I had been reading all of the different methods people were using to go tubeless and decided I was going to try the Scotch transparent duct tape method since it's supposed to be lighter than the gorilla tape and be more resistant to the sealer creeping under the tape.

So after an early trip to Walmart this morning for tape I was ready to start the project. Coincidently when I got to work my new Avid brakes had arrived also. So I figured I'd be able to install those also. I installed the fronts but when I went to do the rears I realized they sent me a 160MM rear rotor instead of the advertised 185MM and no caliper mount for the 185 rotor either. Still waiting to hear back from the Ebay seller on what we're going to do there.

Anyway I've done the tubeless conversion, I do have some leaking at the front wheel seam and at the bead on one side of the rear tire. Time will tell if these will seal up or not. Man I sure hope so because the tape and sealer won't be fun to clean out.

My custom rim strip:

Tape job:

The tape I used. This was on line for $4.80 but priced at $5.88 in the store. After showing the cashier the discrepancy at check out she promptly adjusted it.


----------



## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

03'Darin said:


> Well I was planning on waiting to attempt the tubeless conversion until someone came out with a good rim strip and I didn't have to go with one of the tape methods. That was until my first non snow ride on this bike last Sunday. We weren't 1/2 mile into the ride and I got a flat tire from a thorn. After swapping back to the stock tube (I had been running the lighter Specialized 2.5 - 3.0 tube) and taking what seemed like 10 minutes to pump the tire up with my hand pump I decided I was going tubeless. I had been reading all of the different methods people were using to go tubeless and decided I was going to try the Scotch transparent duct tape method since it's supposed to be lighter than the gorilla tape and be more resistant to the sealer creeping under the tape.
> 
> So after an early trip to Walmart this morning for tape I was ready to start the project. Coincidently when I got to work my new Avid brakes had arrived also. So I figured I'd be able to install those also. I installed the fronts but when I went to do the rears I realized they sent me a 160MM rear rotor instead of the advertised 185MM and no caliper mount for the 185 rotor either. Still waiting to hear back from the Ebay seller on what we're going to do there.
> 
> Anyway I've done the tubeless conversion, I do have some leaking at the front wheel seam and at the bead on one side of the rear tire. Time will tell if these will seal up or not. Man I sure hope so because the tape and sealer won't be fun to clean out.


Ghetto tube seems to be the most reliable, fool-proof way to setup these rims, fwiw.


----------



## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

I did the Scotch tape method and had no issues after some months of use .


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

jcaino said:


> Ghetto tube seems to be the most reliable, fool-proof way to setup these rims, fwiw.


Ghetto tube is probably the cleanest way to go but I chose to go this way. I read a few posts where people had used the Scotch duct tape for several months with out issue so I decided to try that route. Also wanted a different type rim strip so I figured ribbon and this tape may be lighter.



Christ D said:


> I did the Scotch tape method and had no issues after some months of use .


Another satisfied customer. : )


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

03'Darin said:


> Ghetto tube is probably the cleanest way to go but I chose to go this way. I read a few posts where people had used the Scotch duct tape for several months with out issue so I decided to try that route. Also wanted a different type rim strip so I figured ribbon and this tape may be lighter.
> 
> Another satisfied customer. : )


The tape method seems to have about a 50/50 success rate, ghetto tube 100%.

*shrug*

I've used both methods on other rims in the past, but in talking with the bike shop and other people locally who went the tape route (on the fatboy rims) only to have problems made the decision pretty easy for me.


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

Well I'll know soon enough. If this doesn't hold up I'll be going the ghetto route. I'm not dealing with changing tubes out on the trail and pumping these huge tubes up.


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## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

If done right this method works real well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Sardo Numspa (Jul 11, 2014)

look what showed up at my lbs today, fatboy expert in blue and yellow. man, this thing is sick. the only reason i didnt go for the expert in the first place was the color option, but i would have definitely gone for this one.
anyone ever seen this color option before?
the guys at the shop said they ordered a black one but when they opened the box, it was blue.


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## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

Shame the forks arent painted to match


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## Sardo Numspa (Jul 11, 2014)

fletchog said:


> Shame the forks arent painted to match


needs yellow rim tape also.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

A guy showed up on one at a group ride about 6 weeks back- I thought it was an SE until I looked it over.


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## CHIEF500 (Aug 30, 2012)

My lbs has lighter blue one. That's the one I'm eye balling.


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## Metroplanner (Mar 27, 2015)

*2015 Fatboy with upgrades*

2015 Specialized Fatboy with Renthal bars/grips/stem cockpit, SRAM Guide RS, X9, 1x10 with Wolftooth GC, tubeless, Thomson layback, RF flats and chainring, and lots of love baked in.


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## skiinnyboy (Mar 12, 2013)

Anyone have photo of surly Lou tires on fatboy? Will they work on the stock 90mm rims?


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

My buddy destroyed a GC so he replaced it with a Lou. It fits great on the stock rim and there are no clearance issues. Next to a GC it doesn't really look much bigger.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Lou fits fine on mine with 90mm rims and front derailer. Much more side-slip grip than the GCs.


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## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

Upgrades so far : carbon handlebar , seatpost and a Tune stem. XX-shifters and have some Hope Tech3 E4 brakes on the way.
Q: Wich headset from Chris King should i get to fit inthe Fatboy ? I'm a bit confused there. Thx.
Will post pics when the brakes are mounted.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

skiinnyboy said:


> Anyone have photo of surly Lou tires on fatboy? Will they work on the stock 90mm rims?


Work great.....


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## DeepVI (May 9, 2011)

To follow up. RF did warranty them. My LBS said that RF had never seen a failure like that. Yea right. They went on to say this would be a one time warranty. Take that for what you will.


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## carbonLORD (Jun 9, 2007)

Any metal in there or is it really all carbon


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## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

29+ ready for summer. Just under 30 lbs total

Hope front hub
Extra stock rear hub ( see if it blows up like other one)
Velocity Dually rims
Saphim race spokes
Maxxis Chronicles
Tubes


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## Gambit21 (Feb 6, 2015)

DeepVI said:


> To follow up. RF did warranty them. My LBS said that RF had never seen a failure like that. Yea right. They went on to say this would be a one time warranty. Take that for what you will.
> View attachment 978376


I used to tell people when I worked at the bike shop.
"There's 'light enough', lighter... then there's broken" With some parts you're just asking for the latter. Race Face Cinch is about where I settle in.


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

hans2vt said:


> 29+ ready for summer. Just under 30 lbs total
> 
> Hope front hub
> Extra stock rear hub ( see if it blows up like other one)
> ...


Very nice! I'm trying to decide between 29+ or 27.5+ Decisions, decisions.


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## Shelterock (Apr 30, 2015)

I'm 6'7" 260lbs. I've been researching a Chinese Carbon Fat Bike build. Effectively Getting 1x11 etc all carbon and decent gear gets me to $2700 approximately. Downside is time, trail and error in building your own bike.

Fatboy Expert in an XL frame is a similar cost option. 

The challenge I have is no local store carries an XL Fatboy. I've crowded myself on a large frame with clear discomfort.

With less time, Specialized quality and LBS support, this is a viable option I need to explore.

Do any of you ride an XL frame and how tall are you? What have you done to accommodate your bike to your size?

Regards,
H


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

6'2" 260 on a stock XL SE. XL feels really big to me. I like it. I dont have a lot of standover, so I have to be mindful of that. 34" inseam.


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

LBS upgrading to a Hope FatSno rear hub and new spokes...I'll take a picture once completed, pretty stoked for the upgrade.


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## Shelterock (Apr 30, 2015)

kelbo said:


> 6'2" 260 on a stock XL SE. XL feels really big to me. I like it. I dont have a lot of standover, so I have to be mindful of that. 34" inseam.


Kelbo, Thanks, at 6'2" it feels large, and 34" inseam your standover is just possible? 
I'm at 36" inseam. How do you feel about the Mech discs on your bike?
H


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## middle america (Aug 12, 2009)

I'd guess that even the XL would be small for you. I'm 6'2" and ride a large. The XL was close though. I know that the Carver O'Beast goes to a 24.


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## Shelterock (Apr 30, 2015)

middle america said:


> I'd guess that even the XL would be small for you. I'm 6'2" and ride a large. The XL was close though. I know that the Carver O'Beast goes to a 24.


That's the $2700 question. Fatboy Expert, Chinese carbon XL build, or go all out with a El gordo from Ventana. I have my reasons to go Specialized, so I'm hoping to find that one person who's about 6'7" and is riding this bike. Thanks for your input. H


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## middle america (Aug 12, 2009)

Sure thing. The Specialized dealer where I purchased my Fatboy explained that the top tubes on the fatbikes tended to be slightly shorter due to the bike being ridden in foul weather gear, at slower speeds, thus the need to sit slightly more upright. Not sure how much truth there is to this, but I was leaning the other way, but ended up with the Large and am happy. Ironically, my other bike, which I ride 80% of the time is a Ventana El Comandante Ultimate, with a custom top and head tube length. It's the best bike I've ever owned, and Teresa and Sherwood are amazing to deal with. Eventually, I'll own an El Gordo as well.


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## middle america (Aug 12, 2009)

Can you comment on your bottom bracket height? I'm leaning toward 650b + due to a more similar wheel diameter to the stock Ground Control 4.6, but can't decide. 


hans2vt said:


> 29+ ready for summer. Just under 30 lbs total
> 
> Hope front hub
> Extra stock rear hub ( see if it blows up like other one)
> ...


----------



## Shelterock (Apr 30, 2015)

middle america said:


> Sure thing. The Specialized dealer where I purchased my Fatboy explained that the top tubes on the fatbikes tended to be slightly shorter due to the bike being ridden in foul weather gear, at slower speeds, thus the need to sit slightly more upright. Not sure how much truth there is to this, but I was leaning the other way, but ended up with the Large and am happy. Ironically, my other bike, which I ride 80% of the time is a Ventana El Comandante Ultimate, with a custom top and head tube length. It's the best bike I've ever owned, and Teresa and Sherwood are amazing to deal with. Eventually, I'll own an El Gordo as well.


Hi Middle, I appreciate your thoughts. I hear good things across the board on Ventana. I had the opportunity too see and ride an El Gordo at Cycle Haven. Purple 23" frame set up with a 29+ all done right by Derrick the owner. Sweet bike but a considerable amount above my planned budget. I heard the Fatboy Geometry came from the 29er geometry and the Crave XL is the closest thing to it. 
I'm going to take some time to think this all through. Maybe I buy a Crave XXL now and then build an El Gordo to ride for the next 20 years. Go with the Rolhloff XL/ Gates setup. That would be something else.
H


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## sdsyver (May 8, 2013)

Fatboy Pro - just added blue Raceface Next SL carbon bars, blue Cane Creek headset spacer rings and blue 28 tooth Raceface narrow wide front chainring. Almost forgot. Set up both wheels tubeless via split tube and 6oz per wheel of Stans.


----------



## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

middle america said:


> Can you comment on your bottom bracket height? I'm leaning toward 650b + due to a more similar wheel diameter to the stock Ground Control 4.6, but can't decide.


I am happy with bb height with 29+. I don't notice it felling weird.

If anything, I am happy to have bb a little higher because less pedal and chain ring hitting things. But not sure I even notice it higher.

Stand over is higher too of course and that was tight for me to begin with. I notice that more.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

My neighbor picked up a SE today. Weight bone stock was 34.22# with pedals. We stripped the reflectors and I installed a XT cassette, 26"x2.3-3.0 tubes, Saint pedals, a different stem, and cages and it lost almost a pound in the process: 


















I was pretty impressed with the SE, it's a little heavier here and there over my Expert, but still has the Fatboy handling and feel.


----------



## middle america (Aug 12, 2009)

Thanks for the input. The top tube clearance could be an issue for me as well, which I didn't even consider. I was hung up on the handling issue, and didn't think about what .5-1" could do to me on that bike. I'll have to check it out tomorrow. Again, thanks!


----------



## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

After upgrading to Hope Tech3 E4 brakes , tubeless , XXshifters and carbon seatpost and handlebar + a Tune stem , i tried to mount a set of Panaracer's 120 TPI Fat B Nimble but couldn't get them inflated. Tried every trick in the book but no luck. Anyone know's what i could try next ? Thx.


----------



## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

Christ D said:


> After upgrading to Hope Tech3 E4 brakes , tubeless , XXshifters and carbon seatpost and handlebar + a Tune stem , i tried to mount a set of Panaracer's 120 TPI Fat B Nimble but couldn't get them inflated. Tried every trick in the book but no luck. Anyone know's what i could try next ? Thx.


New tires generally will have the beads goofy from being folded up in the packaging - set them up for a couple days with tubes to help straighten the beads out, then give it another go.


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## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

jcaino said:


> New tires generally will have the beads goofy from being folded up in the packaging - set them up for a couple days with tubes to help straighten the beads out, then give it another go.


 Ok , thanks for the tip.


----------



## DeepVI (May 9, 2011)

Gambit21 said:


> I used to tell people when I worked at the bike shop.
> "There's 'light enough', lighter... then there's broken" With some parts you're just asking for the latter. Race Face Cinch is about where I settle in.


For the record I'm a fan of RF. I'm aware of the, "light, strong, cheap, pick two" mantra. I just think the attitude was a little fishy in this case. This break happened on flat trail in Oklahoma. RF lists these cranks for, "XC, trail, and enduro." So I was far from exceeding the intended use. They also came spec'd from Specialized on my FB. I just wanted to share my experience, not really dog out RF. Probably a one time, manufacturer defect. That's how I look at it.


----------



## Gambit21 (Feb 6, 2015)

I think you're right in this case.


----------



## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

After being unable to sleep last night, I got up this morning, went to the LBS with spreadsheet in hand and ordered the following build:

Fatboy SE XL (black)
Bluto RL 120mm
Hope Pro V2 135mmx15
Hope 135mm -> 150mm adapter set
Hope QR adapters (for rigid fork when I want it for bikepacking/winter/XC geo/Bluto being down)
RaceFace 24T Narrow-Wide chainring (4-bolt)
Wolftooth 42T Dinner Plate (Shimano fits Sunrace) for the rear
Double butted spokes for the front wheel build

Still need to decide if I want to spend the remaining 300 bucks on front and rear Buds + Tubeless stuff OR better brakes. 

I figure I'll use my Cannondale Quick in monstercross mode + 2.2 trail king in the front if I want the 29er/XC feel and run the Fatty when I want the other side of the coin. No interest in a regular 29er unless it's just a wheelset for the fatty down the road and 29+


----------



## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

Slow_Thyroid_Bike said:


> Still need to decide if I want to spend the remaining 300 bucks on front and rear Buds + Tubeless stuff OR better brakes.


Brakes, definitely. The stock GC tires aren't bad at all. The Tectros on the other hand, are freakin' terrible.


----------



## Germany-Chris (Oct 11, 2014)

Hello !

The conversion is completed. The result is my idea of a cheerful biking. Incredibly pointless abartig difficult but absolutely fun.

The old DH strut is bolted to the drilling residue from Porter.

Best wishes and have fun ;-)





















-BMX Crank "profile"
-Brooks
-Magura MT5 with 203mm Magura "venti Disc" f/r


----------



## BenjiCX (Jun 27, 2013)

Am I missing something as that shock can't possibly perform any function as the rear triangle still looks to be solid. What is the point?


----------



## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

BenjiCX said:


> Am I missing something as that shock can't possibly perform any function as the rear triangle still looks to be solid. What is the point?


I think that's the joke 

Only because it seems like something I'd do myself just to make people feel awkward.


----------



## Pauldotcom (Aug 15, 2010)

That was a fatboy? lol


----------



## Germany-Chris (Oct 11, 2014)

has no function. just for me. I just find the look nicely. It reminds me of wild times. I wanted an additional Noleen Crosslink suspension fork, but the lefty is also ok.


----------



## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

That looks absolutely awesome dude. Great work!


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## CHIEF500 (Aug 30, 2012)

Slow_Thyroid_Bike said:


> After being unable to sleep last night, I got up this morning, went to the LBS with spreadsheet in hand and ordered the following build:
> 
> Fatboy SE XL (black)
> Bluto RL 120mm
> ...


Congrats, so when do you get it?

Looking forward to seeing a picture of it.


----------



## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

CHIEF500 said:


> Congrats, so when do you get it?
> 
> Looking forward to seeing a picture of it.


Thanks!

End of the week for the base bike, then going take it back for surgery once all the parts are in.

I ended up ordering some XT brakes F/R. I'll wait on the rotors until I decide if I want bigger ones I guess. I'm a clyde @ 249 (though that's changing by the week).

Happened upon a guy with a Fatboy SL about two weeks ago on the trail head here. It was a small (I need an XL) but he let me ride it. I stayed in the parking lot, and I was too heavy for his tire pressure (lots of auto-steer) but I gave it back in one piece. He eventually told me he was 60 (couldn't tell), and he's rigid and killing it - totally badass. Hopefully hes some kind of oracle about the shape I could be in when I'm 60 if I get my act together.Not long after I got yet another flat on my cross bike and that sealed my decision.

Saw the same guy again late last week but he didn't have his fatty with him (by accident) but it still reminded me and I spent the whole ride pretending I was riding fat. I have a goofy white Cannondale Quick CX-3 with a 2.2" Conti Trail King up front and a 40C Nano cross tire on the rear...I'm just going to skip the regular 29er and go for full obesity.


----------



## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

Also, maybe people in this thread know...

Is there a definitive answer about whether or not a Fatboy (or a Bluto for that matter) will fit a TUBELESS Bud front and rear?


----------



## jester6578 (Mar 15, 2010)

Slow_Thyroid_Bike said:


> Also, maybe people in this thread know...
> 
> Is there a definitive answer about whether or not a Fatboy (or a Bluto for that matter) will fit a TUBELESS Bud front and rear?


I have a lot of experience setting up tubeless systems. MTB, cyclocross, road, and set my GC's up tubeless without issue.

I could not, for the gosh darned life of me, get a Bud or Lou to set up on the stock rims. And I tried everything.

Gave up, stuck tubes in, and they performed fantastic during Boston's Snowmageddon 2015.


----------



## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

Did you try split tube, or would that not make any difference? 

Good to know though, thanks for the warning!


----------



## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

My 2015 Fatboy SE

- Carbon Fatboy fork 
- Thomson Post, 50mm stem, clamp
- Maxxis Mammoth 4.0 (summer tire)
- QTubes SL
- 1x10 w/ Raceface 30T
- Renthal Fatbar lite carbon bars
- ODI grips
- Wellgo MG1 pedals
- Surly rim strips
- 29.5lb


----------



## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

2015 Fatboy SE XL

- Tubeless
- Ghetto 1x10
- XT brakes

Other stuff sitting at the shop waiting on a wheel build (fork, hub, etc.)


----------



## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

Q: Really interested in the DT-Swiis wheels , but can someone tell if the thru axle's are replaceable for QR ?


----------



## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

My understanding is that you can get adapters for Thru hubs on QR frames, at least that's what I'm doing with my front fork on my fatboy (so I can swap rigid and bluto). Not sure if DT Swiss has some kind of unique needs.


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

I just emailed them and got a very prompt response:

"Our BR2250 wheels will fit in your Fatboy. The wheels ship with 197x12 and 190x12 endcaps, but are 100% compatible with a 190x10 Quick Release frame. We do not make a 190mm long QR skewer, so that half will have to be obtained elsewhere, but our standard endcaps for a 135mm hub will fit and make the hub work perfectly well in a 190x10 QR frame. Swapping the endcaps from the 197x12 setup to the 190x10 QR setup takes a matter of minutes, and no special tools."

Anyone know the best price on this wheelset? Would be easier to swap wheels rather than tires in the winter


----------



## Louie Escobar (Jul 6, 2014)

September 2014 -









June 2015


----------



## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

Paochow said:


> I just emailed them and got a very prompt response:
> 
> "Our BR2250 wheels will fit in your Fatboy. The wheels ship with 197x12 and 190x12 endcaps, but are 100% compatible with a 190x10 Quick Release frame. We do not make a 190mm long QR skewer, so that half will have to be obtained elsewhere, but our standard endcaps for a 135mm hub will fit and make the hub work perfectly well in a 190x10 QR frame. Swapping the endcaps from the 197x12 setup to the 190x10 QR setup takes a matter of minutes, and no special tools."
> 
> Anyone know the best price on this wheelset? Would be easier to swap wheels rather than tires in the winter


 Cool !! Thanks !!! I found some prices in Europe from 680e to 859e . That's why i'm looking to get a pair. Cheap en reliable wheels from DT-Swiss.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Not much of a performance upgrade, but it allows me to ride more. I picked up a new model weehoo with the higher tow bar and now can pull it behind the Fatboy. The previous model would contact the rear wheel with a moderate grade change, causing instant stoping. Fatbike makes an awesome tow vehicle- very stable at low speed, low gearing for hills, and brake/grip when needed.


----------



## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

Q: Anyone knows wich end-caps i should get to convert the DT-Swiss BR2250 wheels to fit the Fatboy , Need 10*135 and 10*190 .


----------



## Bikin' Bric (Sep 7, 2003)

Here is my Fatboy SE, with a OneUp 1x driveline upgrade, Sram X7 Type 2.1 derailleur, Q tubes, as well as Avid BB7 brakes. Weighs in at 31lbs 12oz


----------



## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

Fatboy SE here too, similar but a little different.

120 Bluto, ghetto 1x, XT brakes, hope front hub, pegasus tape tubeless fi'zik saddle, sprye pedals.

Need to get rid of that dork disk next.


----------



## Bikin' Bric (Sep 7, 2003)

Slow_Thyroid_Bike said:


> Fatboy SE here too, similar but a little different.
> 
> 120 Bluto, ghetto 1x, XT brakes, hope front hub, pegasus tape tubeless fi'zik saddle, sprye pedals.


How do you like the 120 Bluto? I was thinking of an 80mm in the future


----------



## lwkwafi (Jan 29, 2006)

av8or said:


> i mostly ride my fatboy on the streets here in san diego.. i do 17 miles almost everyday on the road and would ride the trails about 2x a week 20 miles average.. have put about 700 miles since i got "helga" aug 18th.. lots of thread left but just want to keep a set handy just in case..


lol. Just have to quote this because of the Hellga women's model that is coming out. Easiest joke in the shop that I said, "Fatgirl just didn't play well."

Will be pouring over this thread as I contemplate 2016, perhaps the carbon comp (coz TA and at the least 150f front should I want a bluto down the road). But most is thinking winter riding now.


----------



## Läskimasa (Jul 8, 2015)

My Fatboy (L/19") upgrades:
• tires: Surly Bud & Lou 26x4.8 tubeless (Schrader valves)
• seatpost: Cane Creek Thudbuster ST
• stem: Specialized 15° 35 mm
• pedals: Shimano Saint PD-MX80
• TranzX -bar ends
• Specialized Sport -meter
• Lezyne Power -bottle cage
• Roswheel -framebag


----------



## Läskimasa (Jul 8, 2015)

delete


----------



## DirtDiver (Oct 13, 2010)

Hey. Just got my SE, and it's a lot of fun.

Thinking of a larger ring up front. 36T seems too small for me. Anyone else do that? Can I just pop one on, or is it more work? Maybe switch it to a 42?

Thanks.


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

DirtDiver said:


> Hey. Just got my SE, and it's a lot of fun.
> 
> Thinking of a larger ring up front. 36T seems too small for me. Anyone else do that? Can I just pop one on, or is it more work? Maybe switch it to a 42?
> 
> Thanks.


14 teeth is about the largest jump you'll want up front for reliable shifting. How fast are you going on the beast? I've hit 38 mph with the stock gearing, granted that was spun out on a downhill.


----------



## DirtDiver (Oct 13, 2010)

Paochow said:


> 14 teeth is about the largest jump you'll want up front for reliable shifting. How fast are you going on the beast? I've hit 38 mph with the stock gearing, granted that was spun out on a downhill.


Good point. I didn't think about that jump. Thanks.


----------



## DirtDiver (Oct 13, 2010)

Lefty Olaf? Would that work?


----------



## crohnsy (Sep 11, 2009)

Should work but Olaf won't be available on its own this year... Only available,on the completes


----------



## fatboy43 (May 4, 2008)

My first upgrades/mods were going 1x10 with wolf components, a 100 mm turbine stem and a whisky bar. The bike sat at 30.5 pounds for a medium expert.

My goal was to add a bluto without any weight change. Mission accomplished with Nextie 90mm rims, double butted spokes and Industry 9 Hubs. I had the Ground Controls set up tubeless and added a 100mm Bluto. 30.5 pounds. Frigging love this bike!

Can't say enough about the crew at Riverside Cycles in Newburyport Mass who did all the work. Top notch all the way.










Final upgrade....for now.....


----------



## edgeworker (Jun 3, 2009)

My bike is similar to the one above. I went with 65mm Nexties and 120tpi Nates. Mine is a large Expert and weighs in at 29lbs 6ozs.


----------



## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

Seventh-777 said:


> Brakes, definitely. The stock GC tires aren't bad at all. The Tectros on the other hand, are freakin' terrible.


I have recently bought a 2015 Fatboy (with said Tektro Gemini brakes) and find them great. At least as good as the xts on my GT Sensor 1. Not sure what the problem people have with them is unless they changed them between 2014 and 15?
PS Nice bike Seventh-777. R1?


----------



## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

Bikin' Bric said:


> How do you like the 120 Bluto? I was thinking of an 80mm in the future


I kind of hated it at first, honestly. Still getting used to it. It definitely changes the bike. Might just crank it down to an 80 though. Trying to ride a variety of trails to make up my mind. The front wheel felt really light until I put the spacers over the stem. We have a lot of steep climbs with switchbacks here.


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

I decided to let a little more red out on my Expert...








Added red graphics to the Bluto, Xpedo Spry pedals, RF Aeffect saddle, Easton Haven bars and seat post. Also bumped up to 203/180 rotors. After several tape tubeless attempts I switched to shrink wrap which has held up all summer.

I ordered a set of DT Swiss wheels so I'm going to use two wheel sets this winter, both set up tubeless. My Dillinger 5's will go on the DT Wheels for a lightweight, speed setup for lakes and fast trails. The winner of the upcoming studded Bud/Lou vs Snowshoe XL shootout will go on the stock rim/Hope hub wheel set for a trail breaking setup on singletrack.


----------



## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

I actually just ordered red rim strips for my fatboy SE (so it's basically all black). But I have red hub, red 42T, and red 30T chainring so I think I've hit a good balance


----------



## skiinnyboy (Mar 12, 2013)

Anyone know a good bottom bracket replacement for the SE model?


----------



## lwkwafi (Jan 29, 2006)

Anyone know if the 2016 xc stout 90 rims are easier to setup tubeless, or are they the same as last year, but with a different name?
Put in an order for a Hellga comp yesterday since the turquoise numbers were dropping and wanted to make sure fiancé got her bike.


----------



## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

lwkwafi said:


> Anyone know if the 2016 xc stout 90 rims are easier to setup tubeless, or are they the same as last year, but with a different name?
> Put in an order for a Hellga comp yesterday since the turquoise numbers were dropping and wanted to make sure fiancé got her bike.


And are the hubs any better?


----------



## cardnation (Jul 2, 2014)

hans2vt said:


> And are the hubs any better?


The hub issue has been way overblown. Especially when you consider Spesh has been taking care of everyone that has had an issue, even upgrading many to Hopes.


----------



## Bentpushrod (Nov 8, 2015)

Been lurking here awhile, figure I'd share my '15 Fatboy. Ghetto tubeless with split 24" q tubes and orange seal. Replaced the Sunrace cassette with a SRAM. Ergon grips. Hope qr seatpost clamp. Bennies flat pedals. Brooks conquest saddle, by far the best thing I've done so far.


----------



## endurofly (Oct 6, 2015)

Rose The Tusker
2x10 (before 1x10)
Bluto w.203 disc (before rigid fork w.180)
reverb is the only pice still missing


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

endurofly said:


> Rose The Tusker
> 2x10 (before 1x10)
> Bluto w.203 disc (before rigid fork w.180)
> reverb is the only pice still missing
> ...


Wow- You must have done some major frame reworking on that Fatboy


----------



## lwkwafi (Jan 29, 2006)

lol. 
I forgot this was Fatboy, too, and gave him the benefit of the doubt about upgrade with pics, but there really isn't the Before:After one expects. after:after is rather dull.


----------



## endurofly (Oct 6, 2015)

Yeah my bad..I beg your pardon.I wasn't able to cancel one pic.
Anyway with 2(22/35)x 10 instead of 1 (30)x 10 and Bluto it's completely differebt bike.


----------



## endurofly (Oct 6, 2015)

Sorry guys,I'm getting old..I swear it was "Fatbike upgrade.." 
now it's "Fatboy upgrade..":madman:


----------



## ColoradoMitt (Nov 9, 2015)

fatboy43 said:


> My first upgrades/mods were going 1x10 with wolf components, a 100 mm turbine stem and a whisky bar. The bike sat at 30.5 pounds for a medium expert.
> 
> My goal was to add a bluto without any weight change. Mission accomplished with Nextie 90mm rims, double butted spokes and Industry 9 Hubs. I had the Ground Controls set up tubeless and added a 100mm Bluto. 30.5 pounds. Frigging love this bike!
> 
> ...


My favorite bike in this thread. Where did you get the etched Los Muertos stem cap?


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

ColoradoMitt said:


> My favorite bike in this thread. Where did you get the etched Los Muertos stem cap?


I'm guessing from here: Sugar Skull w/ Bolt Bicycle Headset Cap by KustomCaps | KustomCaps


----------



## fatboy43 (May 4, 2008)

ColoradoMitt said:


> My favorite bike in this thread. Where did you get the etched Los Muertos stem cap?


Hey thanks! It has been a truly unbelievable bike.

Yes...kustomcaps.com. lots of fun and you wouldn't believe the performance enhancement


----------



## ColoradoMitt (Nov 9, 2015)

fatboy43 said:


> Hey thanks! It has been a truly unbelievable bike.
> 
> Yes...kustomcaps.com. lots of fun and you wouldn't believe the performance enhancement


Yep, found them right after my first post. That Google thing works real swell. Found something cool for my Fatboy and placed an order. Got to make 'em fun right?

Speaking of an actual performance increase, I'm dead serious about a set of Nexties too. Got a buddy running them on his Borialis Echo and they look awesome. How do you like the way they ride compared to the stock wheelset?


----------



## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

Hi Guys, just purchased a Fatboy SE (I'm in the UK).

I have read this entire thread and it is full of great upgrade tips for the Fatboy.

I am thinking about putting one of these 10sp cassettes on the rear (11-42)

Sunrace Wide Range Cassette - 10 Speed - Sunrace from Bikegoo UK

Ratios would be 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32-36-42

Do you think the range on this cassette is better than using the standard Sunrace 10 sp with a one-up conversion? I cannot find the ratios for the cassette on the SE, but I guess it is a standard 11-36?

Also, I am thinking of putting a Race Face n/w 30t ring on the standard Stout cranks (104bcd so can only go as low as 30 up front). Will my chain line be correct with this ring? this 1x10 setup will give me a very close proximity to what I have on my Spesh Enduro (SRAM 1x11 with 30t up front).

I think I need to change the rear mech to accomodate the range? Standard mech is SRAM X5. Looking to change it to SRAM X9 type 2.

And my final question, I have the option to buy some SRAM Guide R brakes. How do they compare the Shimano XT?

What rotor size to do you guys run? I think the SE has 160 front and rear?

Thanks :thumbsup:


----------



## fatboy43 (May 4, 2008)

ColoradoMitt said:


> Yep, found them right after my first post. That Google thing works real swell. Found something cool for my Fatboy and placed an order. Got to make 'em fun right?
> 
> Speaking of an actual performance increase, I'm dead serious about a set of Nexties too. Got a buddy running them on his Borialis Echo and they look awesome. How do you like the way they ride compared to the stock wheelset?


Well I'd love to say that my mountain biking prowess has increases a hundred fold since I went carbon, but that isn't the case. All the discussions of "rotational mass" had me expecting to be shot into the upper atmosphere when I turned the cranks, but that didn't happen either. It kind of felt exactly the same as it had the day before.

However, what it did do was allow me to offset the weight of the bluto which was a big plus in my book. Also, as the Nexties themselves are fairly inexpensive, it gave me a chance to seriously upgrade the hubs. I had already ruined the stock rear hub and the Hope replacement probably wasn't far behind. The I9 torch hubs should give me years of dependable service.

That all being said the Nexties are great. For as light as they are they are tough as nails. I am a heavy rider and predominantly ride rock gardens and rooty techy stuff. They have taken a beating and are surviving very well. Plus they look really cool...not that anyone is into fat bike aesthetics


----------



## Bikin' Bric (Sep 7, 2003)

db3266 said:


> Hi Guys, just purchased a Fatboy SE (I'm in the UK).
> 
> I have read this entire thread and it is full of great upgrade tips for the Fatboy.
> 
> ...


IMO I would ditch the OEM cassette right away. Its riding on an aluminum freehub body and has no carrier, the teeth dig into the freehub body and ruin it. I swapped to an XT cassette with a OneUp 42t expander cog. I ran that with a OneUp 30t chainring and a Sram X7 Type 2 derailleur. Brilliant drivetrain, chainline was okay and shifted great.

I can't help you with the brakes, I changed mine to Avid BB7's. I ran 180mm front and 160mm rear rotors.


----------



## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

Thanks.

Has anyone used the 60TPI wire bead tyres on a tubeless setup? Are they just as good as the 120TPI folding?


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

I set up my neighbor's SE with 60tpi GC's tubeless using the shrink wrap method. Worked fine, didn't seem any harder than my 120tpi GC's.


----------



## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

Shrink wrap method? Was going to use Gaffa tape.


----------



## azgdds (Nov 11, 2015)

I have a stock '16 Fatboy and want to change the cassette and get a 30t chainring. Will a Shimano XT CS-M8000 work with the stock SRAM X7 Type 2.1, 10-speed, long cage derailluer? Would I have to get a different derailluer also? What 30t chain rings would be recommended? Need new cranks also? Hub? I am a newb, so lots of questions.


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

db3266 said:


> Shrink wrap method? Was going to use Gaffa tape.


It has worked for me without issue since March....

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/us...-floater-larry-3-8-tires-pictures-978927.html


----------



## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

Thanks. Similar to the split tube method.


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Yes but significantly lighter


----------



## Cyclotoine (Feb 12, 2015)

azgdds said:


> I have a stock '16 Fatboy and want to change the cassette and get a 30t chainring. Will a Shimano XT CS-M8000 work with the stock SRAM X7 Type 2.1, 10-speed, long cage derailluer? Would I have to get a different derailluer also? What 30t chain rings would be recommended? Need new cranks also? Hub? I am a newb, so lots of questions.


That is an 11 speed cassette, You'll need a new chain, shifter and derailleur to go with it. That said, M8000 is really well priced, so it may be an option for you depending on your budget.


----------



## Cyclotoine (Feb 12, 2015)

I have a 2014 FB expert with the E*thirteen PF 30 crank. I see it is a TRS crank with a removable spider and thus can take a direct mount ring, but I can't find any information about the interface, it seems no aftermarket manufacturers make rings for this crank so you are limited to E*thirteen and the smallest they come is 28T (would love a 26 as it is my partner's bike and she would like lower gearing). 

Does anyone know if there are other rings available besides those from E*thirteen and especially a 26T?


----------



## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

Cyclotoine said:


> That is an 11 speed cassette, You'll need a new chain, shifter and derailleur to go with it. That said, M8000 is really well priced, so it may be an option for you depending on your budget. You'll also need a new freehub, depending on the hub you are using, I am not sure if those are available for the specialized fat hubs.


The M8000 cassette will fit on a regular 10sp free hub, so no need to change it.


----------



## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

When you do the split tube tubeless method, how close to the rim bead do you cut off the split tube once the tyre is mounted?


----------



## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

db3266 said:


> When you do the split tube tubeless method, how close to the rim bead do you cut off the split tube once the tyre is mounted?


i circumcise it as closed to the rim as possible.. i pull the foreskin and slice it with a sharp knife...


----------



## Cyclotoine (Feb 12, 2015)

rescinded


----------



## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

The XT M8000 11sp fits on a regular 10sp hub.
The idea being that anyone can change to 1x11 without changing wheels or hubs.

I'm putting the M8000 brakes/shifter/derailleur/cassette onto my SE


----------



## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

av8or said:


> i circumcise it as closed to the rim as possible.. i pull the foreskin and slice it with a sharp knife...


Thanks. Is there not a risk of the split tube pulling back into the wheel in the event of a pinch flat and hence a catastrophic failure of the whole tubeless setup? (The fluid would go under the split tube with ease, whereas with tape, it can't).?!? Or is my understanding of a pinch flat incorrect (rolling over a sharp edge and pulling the tyre bead away from the rim), or is this burping? Either way, same question.


----------



## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

db3266 said:


> Thanks. Is there not a risk of the split tube pulling back into the wheel in the event of a pinch flat and hence a catastrophic failure of the whole tubeless setup? (The fluid would go under the split tube with ease, whereas with tape, it can't).?!? Or is my understanding of a pinch flat incorrect (rolling over a sharp edge and pulling the tyre bead away from the rim), or is this burping? Either way, same question.


Not really - I trimmed my tubes pretty close and have been able to reuse after unmounting a tire to sew up a sidewall puncture.

What you describe is burping.

Pinch flat is when the tube or tire gets pinched between an object on the ground and the rim.


----------



## Cyclotoine (Feb 12, 2015)

db3266 said:


> The XT M8000 11sp fits on a regular 10sp hub.
> The idea being that anyone can change to 1x11 without changing wheels or hubs.
> 
> I'm putting the M8000 brakes/shifter/derailleur/cassette onto my SE


Nice. That will be a sweet and significant upgrade. It's cool to hear that the 11 speed is back compatible, but would I love to read a technical review of the differences in the freehubs, I assume that the big cog sort of overhangs the back of the freehub like the 10 speed ones sort of did. Impressive they engineered this. I would have worried about spoke clearance.


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

l believe the cog spacing is narrower on the 11sp MTB cassettes, which is why they also have a narrower width chain. That is why you also need a 11 speed RD to get it to shift correctly.


----------



## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

To those that use the split tube method, what size tubes are you using? I can't find any 24" tubes here in the UK that will be wide enough when split.


----------



## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

The 2016 SE has a bolt on rear wheel/axle. Can it be changed to q/r easily or does it need a new hub?


----------



## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

db3266 said:


> To those that use the split tube method, what size tubes are you using? I can't find any 24" tubes here in the UK that will be wide enough when split.


535T3479 Q Tubes Standard Presta 24" x 2.4-2.75"


----------



## majack (Mar 10, 2010)

db3266 said:


> The 2016 SE has a bolt on rear wheel/axle. Can it be changed to q/r easily or does it need a new hub?


It will need a new hub per our Spec. Rep. I asked the same question.


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

db3266 said:


> The 2016 SE has a bolt on rear wheel/axle. Can it be changed to q/r easily or does it need a new hub?


If it is a 10mm bolt, you could try to track down a Fatback 190X10mm skewer. The problem is Fatback doesn't sell them separately so they are as rare as hen's teeth. I was very fortunate to have a generous MTBR'er gift me one.


----------



## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

Largest tubes I can find here in the UK are these

Wiggle | Schwalbe 24 Inch Inner Tube for Children's Bikes | Inner Tubes


----------



## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

db3266 said:


> Largest tubes I can find here in the UK are these


You talk to your LBS? Any of them with a QBP account should be able to get you Q tubes.


----------



## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

I've looked everywhere. I don't think you can get q-tubes in the UK?

I tried with tape today but could not air up the tyres with my floor pump. The Ground Control wire bead tyres are not exactly a snug fit on the rims.....

I'm going to look for a presta / Schrader converter so I can use the pump at my local petrol station.


----------



## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

I'm going to try these

On-One Baby Fat Bike 24" Inner Tube | On - One


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

db3266 said:


> I've looked everywhere. I don't think you can get q-tubes in the UK?
> 
> I tried with tape today but could not air up the tyres with my floor pump. The Ground Control wire bead tyres are not exactly a snug fit on the rims.....
> 
> I'm going to look for a presta / Schrader converter so I can use the pump at my local petrol station.


I'd try the shrink wrap method- I had issues with the tape and split tube didn't seem like it would be any lighter than tubes, by the time you account for sealant. Shrink wrap as chessy as it sounds works awesome. The only downside is you have to redo it every tire change which is a bit of a hassel.

Here are two other options that I'm going to try:

Fattystrippers appears to work well- I'm trying it on my Fatboy next tire change. Not sure if they ship to the UK though.

One other option is the heat seal bag method. I'm going to try this on my Bucksaw as it seems to be very light and also is reusuable.


----------



## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

The tubes out of my SE were both 520g. I put about 6 to 8 layers of tape and it only added 70g. With the addition of Stand, I should save 400g per wheel.

Even with Split tube, I think there is at least 300g saving in each wheel.


----------



## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

Fattysrtippers look great. I've ordered some. Thanks for the heads-up.

Im still going to try tape and use a petrol station pump to get the tyre aired up.


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

db3266 said:


> The tubes out of my SE were both 520g. I put about 6 to 8 layers of tape and it only added 70g. With the addition of Stand, I should save 400g per wheel.
> 
> Even with Split tube, I think there is at least 300g saving in each wheel.


True- I didn't realize you were running the stock tubes. If you compare to a light 2.3-3.0x24" tube, it should be about the same weight as split tube/sealant or slightly lighter granted you lose the benefit of sealant.

I have high hopes for the Fattystrippers. If it would ever snow here, I'd change out to my winter tires and try them out. Think this is one of the few times in my life I've been wishing for snow


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## VicVinegar (Nov 11, 2015)

Me too!


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## SimonsJ (Apr 23, 2011)

db3266 said:


> Thanks. Is there not a risk of the split tube pulling back into the wheel in the event of a pinch flat and hence a catastrophic failure of the whole tubeless setup? (The fluid would go under the split tube with ease, whereas with tape, it can't).?!? Or is my understanding of a pinch flat incorrect (rolling over a sharp edge and pulling the tyre bead away from the rim), or is this burping? Either way, same question.


There is a chance of that happening if you roll the tire off the bead and have a "burp" incident. Often, it's the dirt and debris getting between the tire and the rim that ultimately prevent it from re-sealing after the burp. One of the goals for the FattyStripper rimstrips was to have the rimstrip bond better than a butyl tube does with the tire sealant. This gives the rimstrip a fighting chance to adhere to the tire, thus not leaking on the inevitable burp incident, and keeping debris out of the air-tight seal. The 6 month teardown video on Installation of FatBike Tubeless RimStrips illustrates how the rimstrip seals to the tire to be super reliable on the trail.


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## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

Is anyone running smaller tyres on their Fatboy? Any issues with doing so?
I'm thinking of putting on a set of Fat B Nimbles 26x4


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## Christ D (Sep 2, 2007)

I had these and took them off after one ride.To much selfsteer in the front , had to increase the pressure to much.


db3266 said:


> Is anyone running smaller tyres on their Fatboy? Any issues with doing so?
> I'm thinking of putting on a set of Fat B Nimbles 26x4


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## Chinman (Dec 27, 2014)

db3266 said:


> Is anyone running smaller tyres on their Fatboy? Any issues with doing so?
> I'm thinking of putting on a set of Fat B Nimbles 26x4


I ran them for a while this summer. I liked the tire for summer use - rolls a lot faster. However, it's not a great tire for the 90 mm rim. The BB height drops significantly - enough that I did get a lot more pedal strikes on rocks and roots. Also, I could not get them setup ghetto tubeless on the fatboy rims. They are way too loose. You'd need some foam underneath to get them to seat. GC's set up real easy ghetto, so I left them on. I'm thinking they'd be perfect for summer on some narrower rims.


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## ColoradoMitt (Nov 9, 2015)

I picked up my Fatboy on August 29th as a 60th birthday present to myself and have been loving it ever since. I already posted a little back with one upgrade (stem cap), but since I cleaned the bike up today after a few days of riding mud and ice, I thought I'd take the time to capture all of the the things I've done thus far in one place.

In a different thread I'd mentioned that I replaced the bars with Easton EA-50's to drop some weight, and I cut them down as well, and added some carbon bar ends. As I'd mentioned in the other post, EVERY ride here in Colorado starts with a climb, some are pretty tough, so I like the leverage the bar ends give me and I like narrower bars because I feel like the steering is a little slower and more deliberate that way. 

I also had my LBS swap out the stem for something longer, and before I took the bike home I also aded the Command Post dropper. Again, since everything starts with a climb here I wanted the longer stem to help put more weight over the front wheel to help keep it planted on the climbs, and since we get to eventually come down from anything we go up the dropper post was a no brainer. Between the long top tube on the bike and the longer stem I feel nicely stretched out on the bike - in fact it feels almost identical to my Yeti ARC that I was sized for years ago.

I also brought it home with the Specialized platforms in these pictures, but I run SPD's in the summer.

I added the Ahern Cycles flask cage and flask within the first week. I haven't used it on a ride yet (yet), but cold winter rides are coming and I like to be prepared. I'm a bourbon guy. It's cool, and I like it.

Similarly the Day of the Dead stem cap serves no real purpose except to satisfy my sense of the aesthetic.

One upgrade that does indeed serve a purpose was the addition of the Oveja Negra frame bag. It holds my multi tool, a spare tube, my Lezyne Micro HV pump (also an upgrade I learned of from this site), a Mountain Hardware vest, Smartwool skullcap and a spare set of gloves. It fits perfectly in my medium frame.

I have a set of Bar Mitts (with cutouts for the bar ends) waiting in the wings.

Upgrades for me, but not the bike are some new Vasque Arrowhead boots that worked perfectly in the snow rides I've done so far, and a new Osprey Scarab pack that will give me additional room over my typical Camelback for winter riding.

On the way are a set of FattyStripper liners and tubeless stems so that I can make that conversion in the next few weeks.

That's about it thus far, but I'll be replacing sh!t as I break it. giving some thought to a Bluto, but if I go that route I'll go with some carbon rims since I'd have to go with a thru axle to try to offset some of the weight (probably Nextie). I'm gonna give it a season and then decide if I want to add the fork.

I love this thing. I want to quit my job and just ride. Maybe in a few years.

EDIT: I forgot, I also added the Specialized Phenom Expert saddle. Always been a Flite guy, but after reading up about saddles I went with this one and it's been fantastic.


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## jdawgnoonan (Nov 27, 2015)

Does anyone know if the 4.8 inch Dillinger 5 studded tire will also fit on the 2016 Fatboy? I just got the Comp alloy Fatboy with carbon fork.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

jdawgnoonan said:


> Does anyone know if the 4.8 inch Dillinger 5 studded tire will also fit on the 2016 Fatboy? I just got the Comp alloy Fatboy with carbon fork.


Yeah, will fit no issue. The D5 is slightly smaller than the stock Ground Controls.


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## schlim (Aug 20, 2006)

jdawgnoonan said:


> Does anyone know if the 4.8 inch Dillinger 5 studded tire will also fit on the 2016 Fatboy? I just got the Comp alloy Fatboy with carbon fork.


Absolutely.


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## premocycle (Nov 28, 2015)

2014 with lots o goodies, I have swapped out the knards for Flowbeist and Dunderbeist for the winter.


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## jdawgnoonan (Nov 27, 2015)

Paochow said:


> Yeah, will fit no issue. The D5 is slightly smaller than the stock Ground Controls.


The reason that i was asking is that from researching it on the web, the D5s were 4.5 inches originally but the current model is 4.8 inches and my GCs are 4.6 inches. Do you know if yours are the 4.5 size or the 4.8 size?

The salesman at my LBS also said that he is a fan of only riding the studded on the front with a standard tire on the back. Any opinion on that?


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

jdawgnoonan said:


> The reason that i was asking is that from researching it on the web, the D5s were 4.5 inches originally but the current model is 4.8 inches and my GCs are 4.6 inches. Do you know if yours are the 4.5 size or the 4.8 size?
> 
> The salesman at my LBS also said that he is a fan of only riding the studded on the front with a standard tire on the back. Any opinion on that?


I haven't seen anything that D5's increased in size- do you have a link? 45Nrth's updated geometry chart still lists it as a similar size to what I have ~112mm. Regardless even if it was a 4.8" it should still fit as I've run the 4.8" Bud and Lou and currently have the 4.8" Snowshoe XL and both fit with room to spare. The only 26" fatbike tire I don't think will fit a Fatboy is the 5"+ Snowshoe 2XL.

Not sure why you'd only want studs on just the front aside from cost concerns. Without studs in the rear on ice you'd have to be careful pedalling, turning, and climbing so the back end didn't wash or spin out. Even with studs, overly aggressive pedalling can spin the rear.


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## fatboy43 (May 4, 2008)

Question for those of you that have built up 29+ wheels for your fatboy....

I have read that 29+ can be too big of a wheel for riders who fit a medium or small frame. I'm 5'8" and ride a medium fatboy. 

I'm curious about this because I would like to build up plus size wheels for next spring. I don't want to be uncomfortable on the bike if the wheels are to large but on the flip side I don't want to lower the BB with 27+ as the pedal strikes could get worse.

Love to hear your experiences on going plus especially on a medium. 

Thanks!


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## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

I've been reading that an 80mm travel Blutobis 'correct' for a Fatboy. I've found a 100mm at a good price. Should I go for it? I ride mainly single track here in the UK, so a Bluto is a worthwhile upgrade, but should I stick to 80mm to retain the geometry?


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

db3266 said:


> I've been reading that an 80mm travel Blutobis 'correct' for a Fatboy. I've found a 100mm at a good price. Should I go for it? I ride mainly single track here in the UK, so a Bluto is a worthwhile upgrade, but should I stick to 80mm to retain the geometry?


On the alloy Fatboy-80mm is correct, but I know many running the 100mm who like it, including my buddy. Personally, I didn't like the light front end for the snow, but it was a cheap $35 part to switch to 80mm.


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## jmfugett (Dec 12, 2015)

*Clownshoe Rims with Snowshoe XL tires*

Built up a Fatboy frame this fall with Clownshoe rims and Snowshoe XL tires. Have about 75 miles on it and was getting some rubbing. Checked and the wheel was slightly out of true causing most of the problem, but was wondering with this set up if anyone else has dished the wheel toward the non-drive side? I will know tomorrow if the truing fixed the problem, but I also noticed the chain is perilously close to the tire in low gear.


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## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

Chinman said:


> I ran them for a while this summer. I liked the tire for summer use - rolls a lot faster. However, it's not a great tire for the 90 mm rim. The BB height drops significantly - enough that I did get a lot more pedal strikes on rocks and roots. Also, I could not get them setup ghetto tubeless on the fatboy rims. They are way too loose. You'd need some foam underneath to get them to seat. GC's set up real easy ghetto, so I left them on. I'm thinking they'd be perfect for summer on some narrower rims.


I second this. I ran Vee 8 4.0 tires and tires to narrow for rims. Some rocks bashed the rim, doesn't ride great, and pedal strikes. Dirt riding I use my 29+ now on my Fatboy. Strava tells me that is faster even than my FS on some rides.

Sent from my TouchPad using Tapatalk


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## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

fatboy43 said:


> Question for those of you that have built up 29+ wheels for your fatboy....
> 
> I have read that 29+ can be too big of a wheel for riders who fit a medium or small frame. I'm 5'8" and ride a medium fatboy.
> 
> ...


I am 5'11'' with a large and 29+ is awesome. I'm borderline large frame. I shortened my stem to 30mm from 70mm and it fits perfect. Standover isn't great with fat wheels and worse with 29+ but its only a problem when I fall off in deep snow.

Wheels feel big after riding my 26 FS but after riding a while it feels great.

So I would say stand over vs. Pedal strikes is your trade off. I personally enjoy the BB higher for less pedal strikes. Also it's different for variety- roll over is amazing. 27.5+ would just be skinnier tires vs fat wheels.

I'd be afraid of pedal strikes with 27.5+

Sent from my TouchPad using Tapatalk


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## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

db3266 said:


> I've been reading that an 80mm travel Blutobis 'correct' for a Fatboy. I've found a 100mm at a good price. Should I go for it? I ride mainly single track here in the UK, so a Bluto is a worthwhile upgrade, but should I stick to 80mm to retain the geometry?


FB has a steepish HT angle. 100mm slackens it out a little. I run 2014 FB with 100mm bluto with generous sag and I like it.

Sent from my TouchPad using Tapatalk


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## fatboy43 (May 4, 2008)

hans2vt said:


> I am 5'11'' with a large and 29+ is awesome. I'm borderline large frame. I shortened my stem to 30mm from 70mm and it fits perfect. Standover isn't great with fat wheels and worse with 29+ but its only a problem when I fall off in deep snow.
> 
> Wheels feel big after riding my 26 FS but after riding a while it feels great.
> 
> ...


Thanks hans. I definitely don't want more pedal strikes. My pedals and cranks look like someone attacked them with an axe as it is.

I should ride a 29+ bike with similar geometry at my LBS. I think I'll get a fair idea of fit even in the parking lot.

My gut tells me that based on my height I'm a fit for 27+ but the trails I ride on the fatboy are probably more suited for a larger diameter wheel. Thanks again for the input.


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## schlim (Aug 20, 2006)

Turns out this actually isn't true. Specialized advertises a 70.5° angle on both the aluminum and carbon Fatboys. Take an angle finder to them and the alloy bike head tube is right at 68° and the carbon is 67° with the suspension offset Chisel fork.



hans2vt said:


> FB has a steepish HT angle. 100mm slackens it out a little. I run 2014 FB with 100mm bluto with generous sag and I like it.
> 
> Sent from my TouchPad using Tapatalk


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## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

Are there any special considerations when swapping rims and hubs on a Fatboy?

I've got some DT Swiss BR710 rims and Fatsno hubs (150mm front for a Bluto).

Any offset considerations or should the rims be simple to lace up?


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## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

schlim said:


> Turns out this actually isn't true. Specialized advertises a 70.5° angle on both the aluminum and carbon Fatboys. Take an angle finder to them and the alloy bike head tube is right at 68° and the carbon is 67° with the suspension offset Chisel fork.


For real? That's crazy. Geo charts are total BS and not to be trusted?

I'll have to measure mine now.


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## thotfulspot (Jun 29, 2015)

The GC tires will have a 4" version that should roll better next summer. Come stock on the carbon frames.


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## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

*68 degrees HA with 100mm bluto*



schlim said:


> Turns out this actually isn't true. Specialized advertises a 70.5° angle on both the aluminum and carbon Fatboys. Take an angle finder to them and the alloy bike head tube is right at 68° and the carbon is 67° with the suspension offset Chisel fork.


very curious! Made me want to measure mine - 2014 Fatboy

First, note I switched to Bluto from stock, so my fork is longer
Stock FB carbon fork - 470mm
Bluto 100mm - 511mm A2C measure

so I added 41mm to the fork length

I measured my head angle to be 68 degrees now.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

thotfulspot said:


> The GC tires will have a 4" version that should roll better next summer. Come stock on the carbon frames.


Just saw 3 carbon fatboy's at the LBS over the weekend. All of them had 4.6 ground control tires on them.


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## schlim (Aug 20, 2006)

Good catch - I measured a 2015 aluminum bike again, and found I didn't take into account the head tube taper. Woops. Measuring down the center of the steer tube shows an angle right at 70 degrees with the stock fork. The carbon 2016 bike is still about a degree slacker with the suspension corrected carbon fork and shorter head tube.



hans2vt said:


> very curious! Made me want to measure mine - 2014 Fatboy
> 
> First, note I switched to Bluto from stock, so my fork is longer
> Stock FB carbon fork - 470mm
> ...


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## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

I measured all the weights on the front and rear wheels from my Fatboy SE.

Here they are for your delectation. :thumbs:


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## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

and the upgrades I am doing.
I am assuming the Sapim spokes will be the same weight as the OEM spokes.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

db3266 said:


> and the upgrades I am doing.
> I am assuming the Sapim spokes will be the same weight as the OEM spokes.


Thats a huge saving going tubeless?
How much Stans did you put in???


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## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

I will probably put 4 fl oz in. The fatty stripper is 50g, so I'm estimating the weight of the stans. I'm probably under estimating a little.


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## db3266 (Nov 7, 2014)

Am I correct in thinking that my SE frame, which has a bolt on rear hub, will take a Hope Fatsno 190 Q/R rear hub?


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

db3266 said:


> Am I correct in thinking that my SE frame, which has a bolt on rear hub, will take a Hope Fatsno 190 Q/R rear hub?


Yes


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## tjwil9488 (Jul 7, 2011)

Did many upgrades to my Specialized Fatboy se since I purchased it in May, most recently powder coated white. 
* 2015 Specialized Fatboy se, Powder coated, white
* ICAN 80mm wheels
* Bontrager Hodag 26x3.8
* SunRace 11-40T 10 Speed
* SRAM GX Type 2.1 10-Speed Long Cage
* Sram XX Grip Shift
* Rock shox bluto 80mm
* Stock crank
* 32 *Oval*Chainring
* 50mm stem
* KS eTen R Dropper Seatpost with KS Southpaw Under-bar Remote Lever


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## carbonLORD (Jun 9, 2007)

*Tumbler 2.0*


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## cliston (Jul 11, 2014)

Sardo Numspa said:


> look what showed up at my lbs today, fatboy expert in blue and yellow. man, this thing is sick. the only reason i didnt go for the expert in the first place was the color option, but i would have definitely gone for this one.
> anyone ever seen this color option before?
> the guys at the shop said they ordered a black one but when they opened the box, it was blue.
> 
> View attachment 976282


Looks like mine. Sharp color 😀


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## SimonsJ (Apr 23, 2011)

cliston said:


> Looks like mine. Sharp color 


I've got a 2015 Blue Expert... looks sharp with the Black Rimstrips!


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

I never thought I'd like 1X, but after riding it on my Bucksaw, I never felt the need for more gears. Just switched over the Fatboy using a direct mount 28t e13 Guidering and SRAM GX components:
















I'll second the fact that reflective rim strips are awesome! Mine look like laser wheels going down the road.


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

I put a new wheelset on today, Hope hubs, Mulefuts, green nipples.










Also put a dropper on (Giant Contact Switch, the most under-appreciated dropper ever IMO).










34lbs loaded including pedals, with a 100mm bluto and the studded Dillinger 5s running tubeless. A little on the heavy side but I care about my bike being light about 10% of the time, and I care about it being comfortable 100% of the time. The bluto and the dropper are worth the extra weight IMO.


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## Jumbo62 (Dec 11, 2013)

I liked my 2014 Fatboy so much I decided to upgrade to a 2016 carbon frame this winter. This bike is set up 1x10 with XT shifter and brake set, Praxis 11-40 cassette, and a RF SL crank w/ 32T NW chain ring. Wheels are Nextie 80's with Industry 9 hubs mounted with Ground Control 4.6's tubeless. The bIke is just north of 25 lbs and a blast to ride.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Jumbo62 said:


> I liked my 2014 Fatboy so much I decided to upgrade to a 2016 carbon frame this winter. This bike is set up 1x10 with XT shifter and brake set, Praxis 11-40 cassette, and a RF SL crank w/ 32T NW chain ring. Wheels are Nextie 80's with Industry 9 hubs mounted with Ground Control 4.6's tubeless. The bIke is just north of 25 lbs and a blast to ride.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looking good!

Any idea of how much lighter the carbon frame was?


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Installed axiom rear rack, had to bend it slightly and flip the chainstay brackets around.


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## robertdavid (May 31, 2012)

Bad ( I ) looking bike. I have the Superlight from 2015 and I love it.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Thanks, its getting there, dropper post order today.


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## FreddyBoy (Feb 11, 2016)

*Fatboy Se Modification*





















2016 Fatboy Se All black

Easton Carbon Bar ec70 700mm
Sram XO Trigger Shifter
Sram XO Rear Derailleur 10 Speed
1 X Setup with Raceface 30T Nw chain ring Red
42t E13 + 16t cog + Sram 1070 Cassette Red
Raceface Aeffect Pedal Red
Formula The ONE Hydro brakes
Formula disc 160 mm - 180 mm Red
Hope QR 135mm - 190 mm Red
Hope Seat clamp Red
Tubeles setup with Fatty stripper 4oz stan/wheel
3M Bling reflective strip Red
WTB grip handle Red
Wolf tooth Stem cap Red
KCNC Valve Cap Red
Specialized Carbon Fork (not on pictures)

Weight is now 29.5 lbs with lot of Red :madmax:


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## 800296 (Nov 22, 2015)

Just finished up swapping components from Chinese carbon to a new Fatboy carbon. Set up tubeless. Weighs in at 27lbs.

Frame: Specialized Fatboy Carbon
Rims: Lightbicycle Carbon 90mm
Hubs: Hope Fatsno 15x150mm & 12x197mm
Spokes: DTSwiss Revolution
Nipples: DTSwiss Alloy
Tires: 45NRTH Studded Dillinger 5
Seatpost: Rockshox Reverb Stealth 125mm
Seat: Chromag Moon Ti
Crank: Race Face Next SL
Bottom Bracket: Race Face PF30
Chainring: Race Face NW 28T
Pedals: Hope F20
Handlebars: Race Face Next SL 3/4" Riser
Stem: Hope XC 70mm 0 Degrees
Grips: ODI Ruffian
Brakes: SRAM Guide RSC
Rotors: SRAM Centerline 180mm Front & 160mm Rear
Shifter: SRAM XX1
Cable: Jagwire Mountain Pro
Derailleur: SRAM XX1
Chain: SRAM XX1
Cassette: SRAM XX1
Light: Gloworm XS 2200
Bag: Revelate Designs Salsa 3


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Nice job on both builds, command post arrived today for mine and stopped by the lbs for some tubeless goodies.


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## Fat&SkinnyCO (Nov 23, 2014)

*Custom black, "light weight", rim strips*

Problem 1: Heavy tubeless setup with Gorilla tape, black Gorilla tape for rim strip.

Solution 1: FattyStripper latex band with stock Fatboy rim strip. The FattyStripper Stealth rim strip weighs 150g while the stock Fatboy rim strip weighs 111g (this weight data is from the FattyStripper website).

Problem 2: The stock Fatboy rim strip is white and I want black.

Solution 2: First I tried dying it without success. I then cut open a sharpie and colored the rim strip. Break open the Sharpie, remove the core (similar to a cigarette filter), cut it open lengthwise, wipe the core on the rim strip. Make sure to use gloves!!


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Command post installed with some modding for right handed switch.


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## mkdiehl (Dec 30, 2014)

29+ sworks with bluto
First ride tomorrow I hope


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## yamaha46 (Jul 17, 2009)

tjwil9488 said:


> Did many upgrades to my Specialized Fatboy se since I purchased it in May, most recently powder coated white.
> * 2015 Specialized Fatboy se, Powder coated, white
> * ICAN 80mm wheels
> * Bontrager Hodag 26x3.8
> ...


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## bbender785 (Sep 14, 2015)

FreddyBoy said:


> View attachment 1049546
> View attachment 1049547
> View attachment 1049548
> 
> ...


this is basically exactly what i wanna do with my black SE, and hoped for 30lb... sounds like i'm about right! thanks for posting.


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## Fat&SkinnyCO (Nov 23, 2014)

*What did you do with your 2x10 crankset when you took it off?*

I'm looking for a like new condition 2x10, 175mm arm, 36/22 "take off" crankset from a Fatboy - even if it is the Samox crankset! I do not need the bottom bracket, only the crank arms and chain rings. Please send me a message if you have this and you want to convert it to cash. I live in the Denver metro area.

My Fatboy is still going strong and I just want to make it look new again.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

15 Fatboy SL
Cane Creek 40 series headset
RaceFace Turbine Cinch crankset/bb
Wolftooth 28T chain ring
SRAM 1070 11-36 cassette
KMC x10 eco proteq chain
SRAM XO 10spd shifter/derailleur
Shimano XT M8000 brakes 180/160
Problem solvers adapter
Easton Haven 55 stem
Easton EC90 carbon bars
Easton EC70 carbon seat post
Fizik Aliante XM saddle/tool bag
Ergon gs1L grips
DMR Brendog pedals
Axiom rear rack
SE stock wheelset

Total build cost $2700

Future...some 29+ wheels/tires & maybe a bluto for summer fun. A hellga for the wifey and may switch out the vaults to podiums.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Fat&SkinnyCO said:


> I'm looking for a like new condition 2x10, 175mm arm, 36/22 "take off" crankset from a Fatboy - even if it is the Samox crankset! I do not need the bottom bracket, only the crank arms and chain rings. Please send me a message if you have this and you want to convert it to cash. I live in the Denver metro area.
> 
> My Fatboy is still going strong and I just want to make it look new again.


There's been a set on ebay for awhile now, maybe make an offer to the seller.


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

Yellow rockshox stickers..


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## Mdp3 (Jan 27, 2016)

Who has fit narrower tires to the 90mm fatboy rims? Any recommendations for an alternative to the GC 4.6 tire for riding summer singletrack? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

Mdp3 said:


> Who has fit narrower tires to the 90mm fatboy rims? Any recommendations for an alternative to the GC 4.6 tire for riding summer singletrack


Maxxis Mammoth 26x4.0

Good on/off road low rolling resistance summer tires on 65mm wheels - Page 2- Mtbr.com


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## aredemann (Oct 9, 2009)

Mdp3 said:


> Who has fit narrower tires to the 90mm fatboy rims? Any recommendations for an alternative to the GC 4.6 tire for riding summer singletrack?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I do like the GC 4.6 for everything but I am using the Schwalbe 4.0 JJ for dry hard pack trails in the summer. Low Rolling resistance, light, easy tubeless setup and not too expensive. Traction in mud etc is not that great though


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## Bentpushrod (Nov 8, 2015)

I tried the Maxxis Mammoth's on my Fatboy. I didn't like the self steer. Just bought a 27.5 wheelset with Hodag's I love these!


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## tenaciousd (Oct 27, 2014)

Mdp3 said:


> Who has fit narrower tires to the 90mm fatboy rims? Any recommendations for an alternative to the GC 4.6 tire for riding summer singletrack?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I run Van Helgas in summer hard pack. 26 x4.


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## ColoradoMitt (Nov 9, 2015)

Posted elsewhere, but I converted my Fatboy to a 1x11 drivetrain with a SRAM XO 11 sp shifter, XT 11-42 cassette, Raceface Next SL cranks and an Absolute Black 28t oval chainring. Loving it so far, but need to get in a long climb to make certain it's all I'm hoping for.


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## AudioHavenMN (Apr 26, 2016)

I recently picked up a 2015 FatBoy Expert and was wondering if anyone has successfully removed the decals and gone for a more subtle look?


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

AudioHavenMN said:


> I recently picked up a 2015 FatBoy Expert and was wondering if anyone has successfully removed the decals and gone for a more subtle look?


I believe they are painted on?


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## AudioHavenMN (Apr 26, 2016)

Either that or they're clear-coated over the top


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Might be better off just using black vinyl to cover them. I used it on my top tube and chain/seat stays for protection and it is hard to spot. No reason you couldn't use it to cover the graphics.


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## bozofs (Aug 20, 2010)

I got some scrap sign vinyl (mine is black with yellow decals) and put big sticker over the factory lettering if and when I sell the bike I'll pull off the black decal and have a nicely protected original look


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Just installed the new Wheels Manufacturing PF 30 Threaded bottom bracket and talk about miscalculation on their part since you need to add around a total of 30mm of spacers for a 170mm spindle since the BB fits all the way inside the casing. They should have designed it where the bearing portion is on the outside of the shell. Might just bring it to a machine shop and have them design one where the bearing will be sitting outside the shell.

This is supposed to be made for our bike!?!?

Will send them an email.


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## aredemann (Oct 9, 2009)

Nash04 said:


> Just installed the new Wheels Manufacturing PF 30 Threaded bottom bracket and talk about miscalculation on their part since you need to add around a total of 30mm of spacers for a 170mm spindle since the BB fits all the way inside the casing. They should have designed it where the bearing portion is on the outside of the shell. Might just bring it to a machine shop and have them design one where the bearing will be sitting outside the shell.
> 
> This is supposed to be made for our bike!?!?
> 
> Will send them an email.


I have been communicating with them regarding the same issue on my fatboy with E13 cranks. Bike is at the LBS waiting for spacers. I wonder if this will introduce more problems than it will solve? More creaking? Here is the Wheels mfg response:

"it sounds like the solution is to add 30mm ID crank spindle spacers to mimic the width of that E13 BB.

By finding the overbearing width of the BB in while in the frame and then finding the overbearing width our PF30-FAT while in the frame. The Tech can find the difference those measurements, which will give the amount of crank spindle spacers needed on both sides to use our BB with your E.13 crank.

I suspect you will need 28mm's, or 14mm's of crank spindle spacers on both sides of your crank."

Should I still have them install it?


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

I'm using their spacers since they fit properly and usually they don't creek but I never needed to install that many so will see how it goes once it's totally install.

At this moment I'm using the Hope crankset but might re-install the E13 since I also have that set and see if the gap is less with those.

Beside needed to add more spacers than normal, I think that it might also cause more spindle flex since the spindle isn't really rolling on the bearing's proper area.

Did send them an email with picture.


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## aredemann (Oct 9, 2009)

Any creaking so far? At this point I just want a quality reliable BB installed.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Just installed it this morning so haven't tried it and am getting ready to remove so I can install the E13 BB until I find a machine shop that will design a better BB for me.

My LBS stated the Praxis BB is a real good one which they are now using on the Fatboy


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Just temporary installed the E13 cranks on that BB and it won't work. It's just too far off so the bearings won't rotate on the proper area of the spindle.


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## aredemann (Oct 9, 2009)

Thx, mentioned it to the LBS and forwarded this thread to Wheels MFG


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## aredemann (Oct 9, 2009)

Nash04 said:


> Just temporary installed the E13 cranks on that BB and it won't work. It's just too far off so the bearings won't rotate on the proper area of the spindle.


Not sure what the spindle looks like but this is what Wheels just emailed me:
"Our PF30-FAT is designed to work with most 30mm spindle diameter cranks as a standalone product or with use of adapters for Shimano, SRAM GXP cranks.

One thing to consider with this E13 crank setup, if it has a straight diameter then there should be no issues using our BB with the spacers. However, if your crank has a machined area for the inner bearing race to sit, then the bearing will not sit in the proper location on the spindle and it will not work."


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

However, if your crank has a machined area for the inner bearing race to sit, then the bearing will not sit in the proper location on the spindle and it will not work."

That's the issue with mine.


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## Chinman (Dec 27, 2014)

Nash04 said:


> However, if your crank has a machined area for the inner bearing race to sit, then the bearing will not sit in the proper location on the spindle and it will not work."
> 
> That's the issue with mine.


i have the Samox cranks, and the Wheels BB worked great for me. I did buy a bunch of their spacers to get it to work smoothly. The Samox BB uses a couple of Al sleeves for spacers and a wave washer to preload the bearings. The Wheels BB uses a couple of silicone washers to protect the bearings. Those washers wouldn't work with the Samox spacers as it took up too much slack and I couldn't tighten down the crank. I think I ended up with 17-18 mm of Wheels spacers on each side plus the wave washer to get it perfect. This is a very nice BB, but depending on what you have some spacer tweaking may be needed.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

I kept my plastic sleeves, stock samox crank and stock spacers and just changed out the bearings. Cheaper and easier. 

Only changed the bearings because they were crunchy. Never had any bottom bracket creeks in over a year of riding the bike. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Nash04 said:


> This is supposed to be made for our bike!?!?


From the Wheels Mfg. website:









The Fatboy has a 100mm bottom bracket width.


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## Chinman (Dec 27, 2014)

prj71 said:


> I kept my plastic sleeves, stock samox crank and stock spacers and just changed out the bearings. Cheaper and easier.
> 
> Only changed the bearings because they were crunchy. Never had any bottom bracket creeks in over a year of riding the bike.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Well, my BB was creaking like a mofo, so I swapped it out. Wheels is a very nice BB and will be easier to service down the road.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

prj71 said:


> From the Wheels Mfg. website:
> 
> View attachment 1066971
> 
> ...


I don't recall any Fat Bike that has a 121mm shell but this is what I was going by;
Compatible with the following Bottom Bracket Standards:

PF30 - with 100mm shell width
Specialized Fatboy


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

*Sound*

Added this sound device onto the bike since there are times that I ride by myself.

Great sound.

The unit is an Alpatronix AX410 which is water resistant but added a wrap around since it's not mud resistance...

Bought it thru Amazon for $45.00, not bad Hey!


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## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

Tried searching, not sure if anyone would know but...

are 3.8" knards the smallest you could go for trail riding on the stock 90mm fatboy rims? I'm running tubeless also and want to be able to carve turns, but roll fast on hardpack too! Wanting to downsize as much as I can on stock rims...


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Have installed the Speedster which are 3.5 and rides real good on hard/pack surfaces.


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## Chinman (Dec 27, 2014)

Slow_Thyroid_Bike said:


> Tried searching, not sure if anyone would know but...
> 
> are 3.8" knards the smallest you could go for trail riding on the stock 90mm fatboy rims? I'm running tubeless also and want to be able to carve turns, but roll fast on hardpack too! Wanting to downsize as much as I can on stock rims...


I ran FBNs last summer, which run smaller than the knards. They were fast. The only thing I didn't like was all the pedal strikes from the BB drop. This is definitely something to consider if you are riding chunky stuff. I went the opposite direction this summer. I left the Bud on the front. It's not light, but it rolls great and carves like a Ginsu 2000.


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## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

Chinman said:


> I ran FBNs last summer, which run smaller than the knards. They were fast. The only thing I didn't like was all the pedal strikes from the BB drop. This is definitely something to consider if you are riding chunky stuff. I went the opposite direction this summer. I left the Bud on the front. It's not light, but it rolls great and carves like a Ginsu 2000.


Is the 26x4.0 FBN smaller than the 26x3.8 knard?


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## Chinman (Dec 27, 2014)

Slow_Thyroid_Bike said:


> Is the 26x4.0 FBN smaller than the 26x3.8 knard?


Yes, slightly, according to the true tire size thread:
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/true-tire-size-thread-894949.html

See the PDF on the first post in the thread.


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## ColoradoMitt (Nov 9, 2015)

Added a new set of lightweight summer wheels. 

Whisky rims, Onyx hubs, DT TB spokes and nips, built by mikesee (awesome to work with btw).

Set up tubeless with Icetech rotors, Paul's skewers and Specialized Fast Track Fat tires. Bead set with my floor pump and everything went together slick as butter. 

Can't wait to ride these on the Kokopelli trail next week.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Upgrade via Warranty...

Thanks Specialized for standing behind your product and upgrading my rear hub at no charge on my year and a half old bike.










Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## FatboySE (May 27, 2016)

New here so I apologize in advance. I have a fatboy se (loved the name because of me being a fatboy) anyway. I am wanting to upgrade my bike and would like to hear some opinions. If I'm in the wrong thread I'm sorry. I want to go tubless so that will be the first thing done. I have had to change the bearings in the crank area if that's what you call it. My front brake makes an awful metal rattling sound when I'm going at a decent speed after 2 shops trying to adjust, no luck. So I guess the brakes are next. Anywho thanks for reading and or insight. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Chinman (Dec 27, 2014)

I have a 2015 SE and here's what I've done:
-tubeless with Fattystrippers - works well with Fatboy rims
-Raceface Next carbon handlebar - helps take the sting out of the front end
-takeoff carbon Fatboy fork bought from another MTBR member - dropped a pound, takes out more sting
-XT hydro brakes and icetech rotors - much more reliable and smooth stopping power
-1x drivetrain upgrade with GX 10 speed derailleur and shifter, Wolftooth 30 T chainring and 42T cog
-KS Dropzone dropper post - great for riding tech terrain or snow
-Surly Bud front tire - awesome!
-Wheels mfg BB - mine was creaking, now it's not
-Raceface Aeffect flat pedals - red and grippy

I did these upgrades over the last 2 seasons and I'm very happy with the bike now. I think the brakes are where I'd start and tubeless would be next, followed by 1x. The Tektro Aries are pretty awful. If you didn't want to do the hydro upgrade, my second choice would be to put on some BB7 calipers. On my wife's SE I went 1x with a Sunrace 11-42 cassette and Wolftooth chainring. This works very well and is very inexpensive.


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## FatboySE (May 27, 2016)

Tubeless question on fatty strippers or any other tubeless setup. Has anyone used glitter initially inside their wheels to help seal any leaks? I'm going fatty so that's where my question lies


Sent from Tapatalk


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## iboey (Jun 1, 2016)

Sorry to sound stupid. I just got a Fatboy expert. Black frame with red decals. Comes with cheapo quando hubs. May I ask what is the rear hub spacing? Can I use a Hope pro 190x12 on this frame? Possible to use a 12mm rear axle on the rear dropout?


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

iboey said:


> Sorry to sound stupid. I just got a Fatboy expert. Black frame with red decals. Comes with cheapo quando hubs. May I ask what is the rear hub spacing? Can I use a Hope pro 190x12 on this frame? Possible to use a 12mm rear axle on the rear dropout?


12mm is too big. 190X10mm fits perfect but the 10mm diameter QR axles are tough to find.


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## iboey (Jun 1, 2016)

I have a quando rear qr on the Fatboy, will I still be able to use it if I change to the hope hub?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Marek32 (Jul 31, 2016)

Frame: Specialized Fatboy 2014 M

Rims: Light-bicycle Carbon 90mm, tubeless.
Spokes: DT Swiss Comp
Hubs: Rear: DT Swiss 350 12x190mm, Custom Axle 12->10mm
Front: Novatec 9x135, DT Swiss RWS Thru bolt 9x135

Chainring: Argon 30T
Grips: ESI
Chain: Shimano XT 10s
Cassette: Sunrace 11-42, 10s

Weight: 12.43 kg (27,4 lbs)


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Nice ride, great pics.


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## FitmanNJ (May 23, 2011)

Marek32 said:


> Hubs: Rear: DT Swiss 350 12x190mm, Custom Axle 12->10mm


Is that a custom thru axle that you're using? If so, may I ask where you obtained it? Thanks.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Added a new saddle, Chromag Trailmaster. Never was able to get the aliante xm to feel as good as my old one and after getting a lynx dt for the stumpy, I decided to give a trailmaster a go on the fatboy. First ride today on it, bout 15miles with the family, felt great.


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## Marek32 (Jul 31, 2016)

FitmanNJ said:


> Is that a custom thru axle that you're using? If so, may I ask where you obtained it? Thanks.


https://scontent-amt.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/13923284_1077949545606329_8023339380050927216_o.jpg










Made of duralumin EN-AW2017A on the individual order in a local workshop.


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## FitmanNJ (May 23, 2011)

Marek32 said:


> https://scontent-amt.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/13923284_1077949545606329_8023339380050927216_o.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the schematic drawing, Marek.


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## illMATTic (Apr 9, 2015)

Here's my Fatboy I built up this summer. I picked up a frame from the LBS they were basically giving away. Came in at 30.02 lbs with tubes and pedals. I plan on picking up some snow tires soon. Probably ditch the tubes.

Alaskan carbon fork
Alex Blizzerk wheels
Maxxis Mammoth tires
Turbine crankset and pedals
Stock bars, stem, and post
Sram X7 derailleur 
Clark's brakes


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## Marek32 (Jul 31, 2016)




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## Marek32 (Jul 31, 2016)

Before









After


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

*EFattie*

This pic was taken before my recent Shimano crank mod and a few other mods . THe bike was stripped down to the frame and then rebuilt with new Zee cranks with frame modifications, XTR chainring (machined down to remove shifting pins etc), superstar gold bottom cup and bearing, FSA top internal cup and bearing, UD carbon rigid forks, Tune gold stem with ti bolts, KCNC alloy bar, Tune gold seatpost, Extralite gold seatclamp, Tune handmade carbon saddle with white leather, carbon Schmolke cradle, MCFK ti/alloy fixings, Xpedo pedals with built in elastomers, KMC SL chain, Deore derailleur with Hope blue alloy jockey wheels, Exilir white brakes, Hope gold floating rotor 180mm, KCNC lightweight floating rotor 160mm with gold KCNC lightweight adaptor and Shimano XTR adaptor, old school alloy X-lite plugs with modified internals, Absoluteblack integrated red top cap and bolt. Most bolts replaced with titanium and alloy .

32000 lumen front light (actual 10,000 lumens rated) with upgraded battery with built in volt meter and touchscreen display, rear Lezyne alloy blue USB light .

More work to be done though . Lots more including a Hornit (horn) and a new throttle with more amps and quicker response time with a better battery display .


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