# Are singlespeed hubs better than normal hubs.



## Ross1200 (Mar 27, 2014)

So I'm converting my bike to single speed tomorrow. Tried it before and loved it. Simple and hard on the legs (I love a challenge). 

I am converting a normal dropout frame to run singlespeed at the moment with a normal free hub. 

I have a singlespeed specific frame on the way (xl cotic simple) with sliding drops but was wondering. Is it worth having a singlespeed specific rear hub? Or will a normal freehub be fine? Are there distinct advantages?

Ta


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

depends on the hub. some SS hubs are alternate versions of a geared hub with a shorter freehub body and wider-set flanges, which make for a stronger wheel build. if you are putting the hub on a bike that has "track ends" (long, slotted dropouts for adjustment of chain tension), a single-speed hub might have an axle that bolts onto the frame more securely. freewheel hubs are simpler and allow you to put as nice or cheap a drive mechanism as you want on it. it's probably worthwhile to put the $$ into a White Industries freewheel if you go that route.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

Ross1200 said:


> So I'm converting my bike to single speed tomorrow. Tried it before and loved it. Simple and hard on the legs (I love a challenge).
> 
> I am converting a normal dropout frame to run singlespeed at the moment with a normal free hub.
> 
> ...


If you were building something from scratch and were sold on SS then yes it is worth it. It allows you to build a stronger / stiffer wheel. However if you have a wheel or are not sure you will stick to SS then run what you got.

Enjoy!


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## jmctav23 (Oct 16, 2010)

I do find it odd but ACS Freewheels, which I have used on two bikes and have had zero issues with, can be found for cheaper than a decent chromo SS cog with a reasonably wide base (surly and the like). And the venerable White industries FWs are not much more than the high end SS Cogs (Niner, CK, etc). So cost wise it's kind of a wash if you're building a new rear wheel anyway.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

SS specific hubs have wider flange spacing and lessen the spoke angle on the drive side which is a good thing.

IMO, a lot of the benefits of SS hubs get lessened by the advent of asymmetrical rim drilling and carbon rims. 

I had a pair of Stan's Flow rims hand-laced to Paul hubs. Compared to carbon rims and plain ol' 10sp freehubs, the latter were much more stiff. 

That said: if your bike has track ends and no option to ever run gears.... hell yeah, SS hub all the way. 
I would personally go with the very short cassette body for ease of gear changes/chainline tuning over a freewheel, which is (IMO) a pain. That freewheel is half the reason I sold the Paul/Flow wheels.


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## solo-x (Feb 16, 2010)

Define "better". Some feel that a wheel that doesn't limit them to only SS is more important and thus better than a hub with wider flanges and less dish.


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## Ross1200 (Mar 27, 2014)

solo-x said:


> Define "better". Some feel that a wheel that doesn't limit them to only SS is more important and thus better than a hub with wider flanges and less dish.


Perhaps better is the wrong word to use. Perhaps it should be if you had the choice, would you run a normal rear hub or a ss specific. And for what reason.

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## solo-x (Feb 16, 2010)

Well, I run SS specific hubs for aesthetic reasons. I feel that a standard geared hub with a bunch of spacers and a cog looks wrong. Far better looks IMO when you run an SS specific hub. Bonus that the wheel is stronger, though to be honest I can't really tell a difference. I have a carbon rim, cx ray spoke, DT 240 geared hub wheelset and a carbon, cx ray, CK SS hub wheelset and the DT set doesn't feel more flexy than the CKs.


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## edubfromktown (Sep 7, 2010)

I run both SS and geared hubs on SS bikes. 

Advantage of a geared hub (CK and DT 240- both have independent bolt axles) is versatility to run it on a geared bike.

I like SS specific hubs too in terms of aesthetics and potentially stronger build but I would not ignore a geared wheel for SS duty if one was lying around.


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

SS hubs have wider flanges than Boost148. They build up dish less stronger wheels, especially large 29er hoops with wide rims and fat tires it's a big advantage. As for drops on a 135 the bolt-on is way better than a cheesy road bike QR. 142x12 thru axle is easier and a very nice set up but I've run both frames with SS hubs and didn't mind the bolts just more of a hassle.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I have Paul hubs laced to WTB i23 rims with White Eno freewheel on my Unit and I love them! They spin forever and we'll I'm happy with them. I worked the builder to design them for how I ride.


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

Custom wheels are the only way to go. WI and Pauls are great SS hubs. I almost bought WI but they don't have 142x12 TA single speed free hub. Maybe they do now. 


worrptangl said:


> I have Paul hubs laced to WTB i23 rims with White Eno freewheel on my Unit and I love them! They spin forever and we'll I'm happy with them. I worked the builder to design them for how I ride.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

hardmtnbiker said:


> Custom wheels are the only way to go. WI and Pauls are great SS hubs. I almost bought WI but they don't have 142x12 TA single speed free hub. Maybe they do now.


I ride a 2013 Kona Unit so I no 142x12 for me. But yes custom all the way!


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## KeithNorCal (Jun 7, 2016)

I agree that SS-specific hubs result in a stronger wheel for the reasons others have stated. While that's ideal, there's no reason you can't run cassette hubs on an SS. I have two singlespeeds and they both have cassette hubs. If I build new wheels, and I may do that just to get wider rims, then I'll have the rear wheel built with a SS-specific hub (probably White Industries).


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

Wider rims make a huge difference even more so, than wider flange SS hubs. Just because you'll feel the better performance of a bigger contact section on your tires. 
Good choice on the WI SS hub, they make some of the best!



KeithNorCal said:


> I agree that SS-specific hubs result in a stronger wheel for the reasons others have stated. While that's ideal, there's no reason you can't run cassette hubs on an SS. I have two singlespeeds and they both have cassette hubs. If I build new wheels, and I may do that just to get wider rims, then I'll have the rear wheel built with a SS-specific hub (probably White Industries).


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

When you guys are talking about SS-specific hubs, is the use of freewheels (e.g. ACS) and not single cogs implied?

I've got a 10+ year old IRO hub with a short SS "cassette" body, like this:



21switchbacks said:


> Looks alot like my IRO hub - I thought they were made by Novatec. Who knows. Anyway, I've had good luck with mine. Very quiet.


Anyone have some suggestions on a modern equivalent?


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

SS specific hubs can be either freehub or freewheel. 

Hope Pro 4 SS/trials hub is the least expensive cassette style SS hub i can think of, and its good quality too.


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## liem (Aug 28, 2005)

Profile Racing Classic and Elite SS cassette hubs.


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

cdn-dave said:


> When you guys are talking about SS-specific hubs, is the use of freewheels (e.g. ACS) and not single cogs implied?
> 
> I've got a 10+ year old IRO hub with a short SS "cassette" body, like this:
> 
> Anyone have some suggestions on a modern equivalent?


Hope, Hadley, Chris King, Industry 9, DT, Project 321


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

Post up a pic. I'm sure they're nice 240 POE, pretty impressive stats.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

The point of an SS hub beside wider flanges is better engagement which is a decided advantage in single speed riding. Example is the Hope Trials/singlespeed hub.

Obviously on a freewheel hub, that depends on the freewheel, eg White Industries trial freewheel.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Have run both geared and ss specific hub wheels(Paul/WI) the only glitch I had was running an ss hub on a geared frame using a chain tensioner. It put the cog outboard too far for the tensioner to function correctly. Light rider here so the wider wheel dish really didn't amount to much.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

JMac47 said:


> ..Light rider here so the wider wheel dish really didn't amount to much.


It's still an advantage. If you watch someone riding a SS up a steep pitch, often you'll see that the bike is being leaned over at extreme angles each pedal thrust. That puts huge side loadings on the wheels, so the wide flanges pay off in that case.


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## evoracer (Feb 26, 2008)

As far as durability, I'll throw Hadley's into the mix. My SS specific hub has been going for 5+ years with zero issues.


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

*Stan's 3.30?*



liem said:


> Profile Racing Classic and Elite SS cassette hubs.





socal_jack said:


> Hope, Hadley, Chris King, Industry 9, DT, Project 321


Nice, thanks for the great info! I guess my google skills aren't up to par, I found only a few of those.

A couple to add are NS Bikes Rotary & Stan's 3.30, though the reviews on the latter leave a lot to be desired. Anyone here have some experience with them? The sub-300g weight is appealing to the weight weenie in me...


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## DualRollers (Apr 24, 2014)

liem said:


> Profile Racing Classic and Elite SS cassette hubs.


I run the Profile Elites on my Jabberwocky (the thru axle SS specific). Without question the best component purchase I have ever made.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

cdn-dave said:


> Anyone here have some experience with them? The sub-300g weight is appealing to the weight weenie in me...


tell your inner weight weenie to take a vacation. I promise a few grams in the hubs will not change your riding experience in ANY measurable way. However, a cheap POS hub could very easily change your riding experience for the negative.

I understand everyone's priorities are different, but buying crappy hubs is just a terrible investment and can give you a negative feeling every time you ride your bike. no bueno. not to mention end up costing you more than twice as much when it inevitably fails and has to be fixed and eventually replaced.

there are other much higher quality weight weenie hubs on that list that are durable and a great investment.


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

cdn-dave said:


> Nice, thanks for the great info! I guess my google skills aren't up to par, I found only a few of those.
> 
> A couple to add are NS Bikes Rotary & Stan's 3.30, though the reviews on the latter leave a lot to be desired. Anyone here have some experience with them? The sub-300g weight is appealing to the weight weenie in me...


I had a set of Stan's 3.30s come on my ROS9+ 1x11 NX setup, a real POS with super low engagement was just waiting for the rear to explode but got my Hadley SS wheelset before that happened. Even the front Stans was some of the worst I've seen(I used to think any shaved ape could design a front hub, nope), riding directly on sealed bearing creates like 4 segments internally to get thru-axle across very rough and the end caps had almost no engagement, utter crap. Most better hubs have a an exo-axle the thru-axle rides in. Their new Nero hubs seemed to be getting favorable reviews though.

I'd also recommend a hub that doesn't use end caps.


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

*OneSpeed* said:


> there are other much higher quality weight weenie hubs on that list that are durable and a great investment.





socal_jack said:


> I had a set of Stan's 3.30s come on my ROS9+ 1x11 NX setup, a real POS with super low engagement was just waiting for the rear to explode but got my Hadley SS wheelset before that happened. Even the front Stans was some of the worst I've seen


Thanks for the advice guys - I didn't realize just how crappy the 3.30 hub was... I've been happy for the last decade with my vintage IRO hub, just getting back into the upgrade game!

Throw me a bone here - are any of these higher quality weight weenie hubs available for say under $300?


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Nope. if your a weight weenie you should know, being a WW isn't cheap. 

Light, Strong, Cheap. pick two. 

the Hadley hub is excellent, comes with Ti freehub, is ~$300, but probably won't hit your WW goals. the only cheaper one is the Hope.


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Nope. if your a weight weenie you should know, being a WW isn't cheap.
> 
> Light, Strong, Cheap. pick two.
> 
> the Hadley hub is excellent, comes with Ti freehub, is ~$300, but probably won't hit your WW goals. the only cheaper one is the Hope.


Maybe a wanna-be weight weenie then, since I'm a little thrifty... I'm almost tempted to run another Tune Kong - ~200g & ~$300 - light, strong and cheap (so far so good on my other bike). The drawback there is it's not "ss-specific"


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## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

IMO, having a hub with higher points of engagement makes more of a difference on a single speed than a geared bike because there are more situations where you may need to ratchet the pedals to get the desired acceleration. 24 or 36 POE is too low. Other than that, and the aforementioned aesthetics, I don't see much difference.

I've got a used Hadley/Flow SS wheelset that I'm selling. 72 POE, black, 32h, 6 bolt disc, 9mm QR (with Hadley bolt-on). PM if interested to hear more.


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

socal_jack said:


> I'd also recommend a hub that doesn't use end caps.


Why???


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

bikeny said:


> Why???


Better engineering all around IMO, full length run on thru axle, no segments internally. When you tear them apart pretty apparent. Plus it adds the capability to use angular contact bearings with adjustable preload. Cap style hubs usually have a small amount of slop that I've seen.TBH caps are kind of a hack to easily change axle standards.


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Nope. if your a weight weenie you should know, being a WW isn't cheap.
> 
> Light, Strong, Cheap. pick two.
> 
> the Hadley hub is excellent, comes with Ti freehub, is ~$300, but probably won't hit your WW goals. the only cheaper one is the Hope.


And I've broken the outer axle on a Hope SS hub but they offered a steel replacement. Though clyde here, at least itz bombproof now, but that part should never have been aluminum. Lesson here, went cheap.


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

You can get a Hadley or maybe find an I9 for that price. SS specific is just a better and stronger wheel.


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

socal_jack said:


> And I've broken the outer axle on a Hope SS hub but they offered a steel replacement. Though clyde here, at least itz bombproof now, but that part should never have been aluminum. Lesson here, went cheap.


Wha...? Hope hubs are considered cheap?


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

cdn-dave said:


> Wha...? Hope hubs are considered cheap?


Comparatively. Tear one apart. Here's where they break at the interface of the needle and sealed bearings, not clyde-worthy with the aluminum outer axle.


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

socal_jack said:


> Comparatively. Tear one apart. Here's where they break at the interface of the needle and sealed bearings, not clyde-worthy with the aluminum outer axle.


gotcha. forgot to mention i'm about as opposite as clyde-worthy as you can get (140-150#)


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

socal_jack said:


> Better engineering all around IMO, full length run on thru axle, no segments internally. When you tear them apart pretty apparent. Plus it adds the capability to use angular contact bearings with adjustable preload. Cap style hubs usually have a small amount of slop that I've seen.TBH caps are kind of a hack to easily change axle standards.


I'm not sure what hubs you've used with end caps, but I've not seen any of that. I specifically look for hubs that have end caps. When designed right, they do not have any slop and are no more prone to breaking than solid axle hubs. The whole point is to be able to easily change axle standards. When buying a high end hub, it's nice to be able to use it again when you buy a new frame. It also makes buying a used wheelset easier, as if you don't find the exact axle setup you need, it's just requires a quick end cap swap. I've used mostly Hope and DT Swiss and never had any issues. Obviously not the case for everyone as evidenced above!


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

I'm a clyde at 205lbs, and have been on a Hope PRO 4 trials / SS hub for two years now. No issues so far. Do all the Hope hubs have the aluminum outer as pictured above? I have mine setup as a bolt on hub, so just curious.


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

HPIguy said:


> I'm a clyde at 205lbs, and have been on a Hope PRO 4 trials / SS hub for two years now. No issues so far. Do all the Hope hubs have the aluminum outer as pictured above? I have mine setup as a bolt on hub, so just curious.


The bolt on probably has more metal internally might even be solid, certainly would help make it bomber if that's the case. The 12mm is rather thin in spots and right at the 90 degree machined interface is where the trouble occurs. With the steel outer axle it should be bombproof though(that they had one available unlisted should tell you something). I got my hub from CRC when they used to offer the 142x12 as an option, they don't anymore, anywhere that I've seen. Now you need to order a kit separate which seem to show up less and less.


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

bikeny said:


> I'm not sure what hubs you've used with end caps, but I've not seen any of that. I specifically look for hubs that have end caps. When designed right, they do not have any slop and are no more prone to breaking than solid axle hubs. The whole point is to be able to easily change axle standards. When buying a high end hub, it's nice to be able to use it again when you buy a new frame. It also makes buying a used wheelset easier, as if you don't find the exact axle setup you need, it's just requires a quick end cap swap. I've used mostly Hope and DT Swiss and never had any issues. Obviously not the case for everyone as evidenced above!


My Hope has a very slight side to side slop when I wiggle the wheel, both when it was new and after rebuild for new outer axle. There's no pre-load adjustment possible. With a CK or Hadley you merely change the outer axle which can actually be easier than caps. Both have angular sealed bearings with pre-load adjustment, no slop. It's pretty apparent in side to side comparisons.


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

I love my old bolt on Hadley SS hub, "Ti bolts!" to a solid axle, very cool set up. I converted mine to 142x12 on my newer frame but may use the axle again on a Hadley geared hub for a commuter bike with 135 drop outs just because they're so cool.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

socal_jack said:


> My Hope has a very slight side to side slop when I wiggle the wheel, both when it was new and after rebuild for new outer axle. There's no pre-load adjustment possible. With a CK or Hadley you merely change the outer axle which can actually be easier than caps. Both have angular sealed bearings with pre-load adjustment, no slop. It's pretty apparent in side to side comparisons.


Curious what frame you are using it on to experience this? I've had an identical experience recently and it's NOT the hub.


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

Oh My Sack! said:


> Curious what frame you are using it on to experience this? I've had an identical experience recently and it's NOT the hub.


ROS9 and ROS9+ i can swap the wheels and the slop moves with the wheel(though cannot swap with 29x3 minions on). Just to be clear I'm not saying anything is wrong and it's so slight i would not notice without side to side comparison.


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

*acros nineteen 1g hub*

Anybody seen/have experience with this hub from Acros?

https://shop.acros.de/naben/nineteen-1g/6568/nineteen-1g-rear-wheel-hub

Funny thing is the hub loses almost ~100g when you switch from German to English :smilewinkgrin:

A cutaway is shown at the bottom here:

Naben Übersicht - ACROS - Ride With Us


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

cdn-dave said:


> Anybody seen/have experience with this hub from Acros?
> 
> https://shop.acros.de/naben/nineteen-1g/6568/nineteen-1g-rear-wheel-hub


no, but they're the about the same price as a Hope SS hub... a known quantity. actually a little more expensive. (appx. $200 vs $245)

the difference in weight could be a misprint, or it could be the difference between the bolt on hub and TA hub for example.

a couple things concern me. it says strait pull flange but shows a picture of j-bend flange? the flanges look small, as in less triangulation. it doesn't mention POE or any info about the ratchet/pawl/drive mechanism.

it does have angular contact bearings, but for that money there's better options without the unknown question marks.


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

*OneSpeed* said:


> a couple things concern me. it says strait pull flange but shows a picture of j-bend flange? the flanges look small, as in less triangulation. it doesn't mention POE or any info about the ratchet/pawl/drive mechanism.


Definitely a J-bend flange (from the data sheet):

http://info.acros.de/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Nineteen-hubs-data-sheet-.pdf

The front hub bugs me just cuz it needs two different length spokes, also different from the rear hub - with the Hope I could use the same length for front/rear & left/right. Never thought about the flange diameter...

It's a star ratchet with 72 POE.

Still interested on first-hand experience though! :thumbsup:


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