# Next bar light



## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

A few pics of what may become my next bar light housing. It will hold 6 XPGs on 10mm stars using the Cute SS 35mm triple optic. Planning to use an H6Flex. Looked OK on paper but after starting cutting it, I'm not sure everything will fit.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

6 XP-Gs should be enough  Why not XM-L though, then you'd be able to use the EVA 35mm reflector?

where's the driver going, at the back? Kind of hard to tell from the pictures..


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

mattthemuppet said:


> 6 XP-Gs should be enough  Why not XM-L though, then you'd be able to use the EVA 35mm reflector?
> 
> where's the driver going, at the back? Kind of hard to tell from the pictures..


XPGs because I already have them and the optics. They also work better with an existing 14.4V battery setup I have.

Driver is planned to go into a slot cut in the bottom, behind the LED cavity. I only have the outside shape milled in these pics. I'll start on the LED cavity next.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

ah, gotya, figured it might have been something along those lines. If you have them, you might as well use them!

out of curiosity, why is the shape at the back the way it is?

looking forward to the rest of it - less chat, more machining


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

mattthemuppet said:


> out of curiosity, why is the shape at the back the way it is?
> 
> looking forward to the rest of it - less chat, more machining


The back is shaped to kind of mirror the shape that the triple optics and LED cavity will be. This is my first attempt at using a CAD/CAM software to generate the CNC program for a shape.

More machining it is! A start on the LED/optic cavity. The pic is from my phone, so not too good.


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## BKruahnndon (Jul 17, 2009)

Looking very nice...can't wait to see the finished product.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

*Project revived*

Finally got my lazy a$$ back on building. Led cavity is finished and the optics cut and glued together. Change of direction from my original plan. Still going to be 6 XPGs but I am going to run them 2S3P with an Lflex and a 7.2V battery. I know there are possibly issues with parallel strings, but I'll try it. I have done a couple lights with series MCEs in parallel and they have been fine. It will have a remote switch like my current MCE bar light. I'm making a few extra switch housings in case anyone has an interest. They will be similar to the one in this thread....

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/another-dual-mc-e-578463.html

except made of black Delrin.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Looking really good mate. You will certainly get plenty of light. My 7up xpg/xpe is still my favourite because the optics match so well.

I love the way you've undercut the optic support to reduce weight

I look forward to seeing the finished light.


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## OverTheHill (Dec 3, 2004)

Looks very neat and very different. It's always good when someone pushes the boundaries of what is possible as it opens up different lines of thought.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Tried to do some more work on the light and remote switch housings today, but the DRO on my mill wouldn't turn on. Looks like some trouble with a voltage regulator. Supposed to have 5V out of one board but only getting 3.8V. I'll have to do a bit of looking for parts Monday.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Damn electronic Gremlins ruining a good night:madman:. hope you get it fixed soon.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

looking very neat, looking forward to the rest


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Nice to see that this light is finally going to come alive. 
you have given an idea!
Could you recommend a glue for gluing optics together please.

good luck with your build


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

Very cool looking light!

Since you are into super minimalist designs, I'll ask here and hopefully not threadjack. A while back, Troutie posted a pic of a triple XPG that mounted on the front of his bars. It was barely even there. I PM'd him about whether it worked or not, but haven't heard back. Any of you try that? Seems like you could run a couple of L334's, maybe one throw one flood and use the bars and body as heatsink and just run a y cable to them through a switch.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Strange I did reply to you via the email on your message.

The upshot of it was I never got around to ordering the boards from Quazzle.
so the little beasty never got used 

I am sure it would work well apart from the reflections from the cables


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

yetibetty said:


> Could you recommend a glue for gluing optics together please.


I just used some model cement because it is clear and has a fairly thick consistency. The optics are made of a type of acrylic. Acrylic is a very easy plastic to glue. Don't use superglue as it "clouds" the optics usually


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

gticlay said:


> Since you are into super minimalist designs, Seems like you could run a couple of L334's, maybe one throw one flood and use the bars and body as heatsink


I have carbon bars so have never built anything that would use them for heatsinking. That has been done, to the best of my memory, by others.

When Quazzle's module was announced I planned a tiny build for a helmet light with one. I dropped the idea after discovering the Carclo 20mm triple optic's beam shape is not to my liking. I love the idea of minimal builds, but not at the sacrifice of a beam I like.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

How bad is the beam with a narrow clear? That's what I have - and a narrow frosted.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

gticlay said:


> How bad is the beam with a narrow clear? That's what I have - and a narrow frosted.


I don't want to say it's a bad beam, it just is too much flood and not much throw with XPGs for my preference. I don't like having much light spread out to the sides. I find the shadows that creates to be an eye catching distraction. Offroadbent says the throw is good with XPEs.

My gut feeling is that the light in this thread will have more flood than I want. If it does, it will be easy to find a new home for it and build something else.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

Vancbiker said:


> I don't want to say it's a bad beam, it just is too much flood and not much throw with XPGs for my preference. I don't like having much light spread out to the sides. I find the shadows that creates to be an eye catching distraction. Offroadbent says the throw is good with XPEs.
> 
> My gut feeling is that the light in this thread will have more flood than I want. If it does, it will be easy to find a new home for it and build something else.


Why not build it with XPE from the start? Plenty of LED's and the XPE, from the pictures that I've seen, really does have a smaller beam.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

gticlay said:


> Why not build it with XPE from the start? Plenty of LED's and the XPE, from the pictures that I've seen, really does have a smaller beam.


I am still quite partial to the XPE's as their beam pattern is always good and because i drive them 750-1000mA I always get good battery life


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

gticlay said:


> Why not build it with XPE from the start? Plenty of LED's and the XPE, from the pictures that I've seen, really does have a smaller beam.


Ha, good question. Mainly because it uses up most of the XPGs I have on hand. Everyone asks about XMLs now.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Vancbiker
My gut feeling is that the light in this thread will have more flood than I want. If it does said:


> If you do find it has too much flood you could try sanding then poilishing the bobbles off the optic. It worked for me on my quad when I polished the bobbles of two of the lenses and left the other two as was to create a wide beam with a hot spot in the centre.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

*A little more progress*

Finally managed a little more time for working on the light. A cavity for the power cable connector and wire passage into the LED cavity have been machined in. The connector is an M8 3 pole (though I'll only be using 2poles). Also pretty much finished up a batch of remote switch housings.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Looking great mate and I love the remote switches. I was wondering how you were progressing.


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## SBJohn (Feb 5, 2010)

Vancbiker,
It's a beauty. I admire the way you cut the flats for the M8 connector. The remote switch housings are way cool too. I'm looking forward to the finished product.:thumbsup:


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

SBJohn said:


> I admire the way you cut the flats for the M8 connector.


Thanks. It would certainly be easier to have just drilled an 8mm hole, but the possibility that the connector could turn in the housing and break the wires would bug me.

edit: spelling correction


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

yetibetty said:


> If you do find it has too much flood you could try sanding then poilishing the bobbles off the optic. It worked for me on my quad when I polished the bobbles of two of the lenses and left the other two as was to create a wide beam with a hot spot in the centre.


Hey Yeti. I'm interested in this idea. Was it a ton of work? Do it by hand or with power tools? Have you posted any pics of the result?


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Vancbiker said:


> Hey Yeti. I'm interested in this idea. Was it a ton of work? Do it by hand or with power tools? Have you posted any pics of the result?


No it wasn't a ton of work and was almost too easy, so easy that I got a bit carried away:nono:

First I polished two of the optics(cute 4) and got a nice bright, far reaching hot spot and the other two optics provided wider light on the ground , just like the Regina reflector.

I liked it so much that after a few weeks riding with it I couldn't resist doing the other two and ended up with a crap lazer beam. You can't stick the bobbles back on 

Best to use some wet and dry to sand, then use a Dremel with a polishing doodah to get them smooth (not too high speed or they'll melt). 5 mins per optic.

Just do one at a time untill you like the beam.

EDIT: Just to point out that my quad uses XR-E LEDs that are known for their throw. I have never tried it with any other type of LED.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

*A home for the lflex*

The housing for the lflex and the cable entry for the remote switch got made today. Too small to put in a proper strain relief. I decided to tap a hole over the cable and install a flat point setscrew. Between it clamping the cable jacket and some polyurethane sealant I think it will be sturdy and waterproof.

Also taking advice from yetibetty smoothed the bumpies from the optic face. Not taking his advice, I did the entire optic assembly. Hoping for a tight, throwy beam.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I'm pretty sure troutie polished one of his cute 3 optics for the XM-L, sure he said it didnt do the xm-l any favours..


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Vancbiker, I really like your work but won't 6 xpg's from a 14.+v battery kill that lflex? My understanding from what George has said in other threads was ideally 1 LED from one cell or 2LED's from a 2 cell battery nut not more.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

emu26 said:


> Vancbiker, I really like your work but won't 6 xpg's from a 14.+v battery kill that lflex?


I've changed direction on this light as far as the battery. I am going to a 7.4V system. The LEDs will be wired 2S3P. Lflex at 3A so each XPG string will see 1A. I have only done parallel MCEs before. Hopefully no problems with the XPGs. I have a few extra XPGs than I need, so will try to sort the best matched Vf sets.

Other than a mount, and fins, all the metalwork is done. With everone going to anodized parts and having them look sooooo nice, I am thinking about springing the $50 that a local ano shop charges for minimum lot.


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## scootnandbikin (Dec 6, 2011)

wow


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Wow indeed!

Vancbiker, told you it was easy to get carried away. You may find that you will be pojecting the square die shapes now that you have polished all six. Best try and have all of the LEDs orientated the same way or you could end up with a beam like a star of many points.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

have you thought about including the Lflex in with the switch like this










only better


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Hey Chris I was looking at doing that for the aspheric helmet light I am making. Any idea if there would be heat problems or is it a case or ensuring that the lfex is thermal epoxied to the alloy it should be fine. I also assume I would need to use non acetic silicone so it doesn't corrode the circuit. 

Perhaps I should just do it and see.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Brad that was an inline driver I did for a Ayup that had died it had burnt out the resister
the lflex was fit as normal with the tape and a tiny bit of I think it Kapton tap over the switch 

then I used the serious glue not silly cone to make the cover 

yes it warms up but does the job of heatsinking the driver that was quite a while ago now and its still working I believe.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Fantastic Chris, thanks for that. Never heard or serious glue but it's funny how every nation has different names for their adhesives.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

troutie-mtb said:


> have you thought about including the Lflex in with the switch like this


I really like having the driver in the head so the thermal sensing magic that George so kindly provides will save the light. I have done a couple lights that were too small to hold a driver. Just used the buckpuck mounted with the battery instead of a flex driver to save a bit of money.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

yetibetty said:


> No it wasn't a ton of work and was almost too easy, so easy that I got a bit carried away:nono:
> 
> First I polished two of the optics(cute 4) and got a nice bright, far reaching hot spot and the other two optics provided wider light on the ground , just like the Regina reflector.
> 
> ...


By jingo Yeti it does tighten the beam up on the triple xml 
I have just done it to one and compared them on the wall side by side cant wait till dark now to go out and try them


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> By jingo Yeti it does tighten the beam up on the triple xml
> I have just done it to one and compared them on the wall side by side cant wait till dark now to go out and try them


Beamshots??
:thumbsup:


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Goldigger said:


> Beamshots??
> :thumbsup:


OK


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> OK


Dam, its about 25% narrower..I'll have to do one of mine now..Cheers
Can i borrow your pic please chris for the dive monkeys?


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Goldigger said:


> Dam, its about 25% narrower..I'll have to do one of mine now..Cheers
> Can i borrow your pic please chris for the dive monkeys?


Och aye the noo borrow away


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Goldigger said:


> Dam, its about 25% narrower..


Nice! I have higher hopes for this light now. Thanks for the tip yeti!


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

troutie-mtb said:


> By jingo Yeti it does tighten the beam up on the triple xml
> I have just done it to one and compared them on the wall side by side cant wait till dark now to go out and try them


It should also be quite a bit brighter too as those bobblets hold back quite a bit of light.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Here is a little video of the flame polish after rubbing it down with 500 grit paper

flame polish an optic - YouTube


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Righteo ist comparison time though not a complete one as the unmodded light has U2 2S tints and the sanded smooth one has T5 in cool white not sure what tint



















it certainly seems to improve throw but there is a downside and that is quite alot of strange artifacts around the edges
the three legs on the optic give three little lights around the edge


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Could paint the legs black? That might stop them absorbing any light..might even have to paint the 3 visible circles on the front of the optic..


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> Righteo ist comparison time though not a complete one as the unmodded light has U2 2S tints and the sanded smooth one has T5 in cool white not sure what tint
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hope you dont mind Chris, I struggled to see the difference..so i created a gif..which really helps









Is that the lumen hound that disappears at the top of the slope?


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Goldigger said:


> Hope you dont mind Chris, I struggled to see the difference..so i created a gif..which really helps
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No I dont mind you doing the gifs at all I was hoping you would .

yes thats Paddy the lumen hound sure enough


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

*Another step*

In what is turning into one of the longest, most drawn out attempts to build a new design...I now have fins.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Very nice looking :thumbsup:

I bet those were pretty difficult to cut, nice and deep!



***


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

scar said:


> Very nice looking :thumbsup:
> 
> I bet those were pretty difficult to cut, nice and deep!
> 
> ***


Not too bad really. Trying to work on low tool cost, and taking from what others on this forum have done, I bought a carbide tipped sawblade for a mini tablesaw. It is 4" diameter and .08" cut width. Cost $5 at Harbor Freight. Made an arbor to mount it in my mill spindle and started hacking. It's pretty noisy and doesn't make a very smooth cut but it goes pretty fast.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Vancbiker said:


> Not too bad really. Trying to work on low tool cost, and taking from what others on this forum have done, I bought a carbide tipped sawblade for a mini tablesaw. It is 4" diameter and .08" cut width. Cost $5 at Harbor Freight. Made an arbor to mount it in my mill spindle and started hacking. It's pretty noisy and doesn't make a very smooth cut but it goes pretty fast.


Nice lateral thinking there Vancbiker, just be careful of teeth coming off the blade which they can do when cutting al particularly if things move at.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

emu26 said:


> Nice lateral thinking there Vancbiker, just be careful of teeth coming off the blade which they can do when cutting al particularly if things move at.


*Emu*, I also us a 125mm carbide tipped saw blade fitted to an arbour in my mill but I also use it in my angle grinder for cutting box section and the like. The blades are fantastic. Needless to say you hang onto to the angle grinder really tight as that blade would do some real damage if it got free. I already have a lovely scar on my bicep from an angle grinder opting to leap away from the job and between my chest and arm as it was sick of cutting some stainless steel and wanted to go back to the workshop. I haven't made that mistake again.

For cutting fluid I use good old kerosene in a squirty bottle.

*Vanc*, the build is coming along really nicely. By the end of the weekend it will be just about finished


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

emu26 said:


> just be careful of teeth coming off the blade which they can do when cutting al particularly if things move at.


If it's not the teeth possibly breaking it is certainly the chips to watch out for. I run this saw at ~800 rpm and feed it fairly fast through the cut. The chips fly to the wall ~8feet away. Must wear safety glasses!


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

brad72 said:


> *Vanc*, the build is coming along really nicely. By the end of the weekend it will be just about finished


Hah! I'll be lucky to get all the deburring done by the end of the weekend.

Also since so many of you have been doing anodizing with such great result, I am really trying to talk myself into polishing it and dropping it and a $50 bill at the local ano shop next week.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Vancbiker said:


> If it's not the teeth possibly breaking it is certainly the chips to watch out for. I run this saw at ~800 rpm and feed it fairly fast through the cut. The chips fly to the wall ~8feet away. Must wear safety glasses!


Ah yes, those burning hot little bundles of joy that always seem to end up down you boot or down you shirt. Bit like the welding splatter when mig welding


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

*All polished up and nowhere to go!*

So in light (pun intended) of so many DIY builds getting anodized lately, I decided to polish a bit and send it to a local ano shop. I had talked to them in the past and was told their mininmum charge was $50. A bit steep, but I knew I needed ano after seeing all the beautiful work you all have done. Called the other day to make sure I could drop it off and was also told they had raised the minimum price to $60. That's just too steep for me and I don't feel up to setting up my own ano system. I'm just going to assemble it as is.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

looks pretty sweet as it is Vanc. No option of finding someone with a power supply or sweet talking one of the peeps off here into doing it for you?


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

Vancbiker said:


> So in light (pun intended) of so many DIY builds getting anodized lately, I decided to polish a bit and send it to a local ano shop. I had talked to them in the past and was told their mininmum charge was $50. A bit steep, but I knew I needed ano after seeing all the beautiful work you all have done. Called the other day to make sure I could drop it off and was also told they had raised the minimum price to $60. That's just too steep for me and I don't feel up to setting up my own ano system. I'm just going to assemble it as is.


Did you ask if they will piggyback your housing with another ano job? Sometimes shops can be cool like that.... heh, maybe for a half rack of Whistler Brown Ale.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

mattthemuppet said:


> No option of finding someone with a power supply or sweet talking one of the peeps off here into doing it for you?


I don't want to get all the chemical stuff going to do it myself, the power supply is the easy part. I have not asked anyone on the forum. It's a hobby and trying to get too commercial might not appeal to many.



gticlay said:


> Did you ask if they will piggyback your housing with another ano job? Sometimes shops can be cool like that.... heh, maybe for a half rack of Whistler Brown Ale.


I did not ask nor did they offer:sad:

I only checked one place as it is not far from the job, so pretty convenient. I think I'll check if there are any other places that would have a lower price.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

I'd be more than happy to ano it but the back an forth postage from Australia would probably be $30 so nearly as much as the local ano shop's charge. Seems everything else in the world has got cheaper except for postage


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Thanks Brad, that red you do is very tempting......I have not started assembling it yet and looked up a couple other ano shops in town. I need to give them a call.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Vancbiker said:


> Thanks Brad, that red you do is very tempting......I have not started assembling it yet and looked up a couple other ano shops in town. I need to give them a call.


I am lucky and dont realy need to home ano as have a good anodisers close by who did the odd one off far a few beers when I needed one doing .
but do loke the challenge of doing it myself .

try being a bit sly and ask if they will do you a sample IE your case with a hint of a full batch later and offer some beers when they say yes.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

*almost done*

Finally found a bit of time to work on this build. LEDs glued in and wired. Power connector, Lflex, and remote cable wired in. Weighs in at 106 grams as pictured. More than I had hoped it would be.

Now to put together a battery. 2S4P setup using Digikey single 18650 holders is the plan.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

holy cow, that's going to be a monster! I love the elegance of the bar mount too.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Vancbiker said:


> Finally found a bit of time to work on this build. LEDs glued in and wired. Power connector, Lflex, and remote cable wired in. Weighs in at 106 grams as pictured. More than I had hoped it would be.
> 
> Now to put together a battery. 2S4P setup using Digikey single 18650 holders is the plan.


Defo reminds me of wall e









Nice work, :thumbsup:
shame the ano was to expensive..that would have really set it off..
Look forward to the beam shots..


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Vancbiker, that is a sexy little number! very, very nice.

I too would have expected it to weigh a little less but those cables must add their bit of weight as well as play their part and it's still far from heavy for a six up.. I also like it in it's raw aluminium flesh.

How are you keeping those optics in?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

yetibetty said:


> I also like it in it's raw aluminium flesh.


I so wish it were anodized!:sad:



yetibetty said:


> How are you keeping those optics in?


A DIY guys best friend....clear RTV (neutral cure). There is a little "ledge" that the optic sits on. Spread a small bead there and press the optic in.

I don't think I am going to build any more lights with the "joined" optic concept. Between this one and my MK2 microlight, I have come to the conclusion they are too much work. So it saves a few grams. They are very fiddly in getting the emitters lined up with the optic and the tolerances to mill things to get pretty tight so things can line up.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Beautiful looking light Vancbiker. Has all the feminine curves but the optics say "Don't mess with me cause I'll burn your ass".



.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

brad72 said:


> Has all the feminine curves


Won't be long now 'til someone posts the round bottomed Finn pic.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

and wouldn't that be a terrible thing..


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

mattthemuppet said:


> and wouldn't that be a terrible thing..


I just had to be different..but as brad said all the feminine curves and she will burn your ass..


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

last time I tried grinding metal with my shirt off it hurt like a *****. Still, at least she's wearing eye protection.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

mattthemuppet said:


> last time I tried grinding metal with my shirt off it hurt like a *****.


That's because you didn't have the chest protection she has.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

When I was a young fella I was cutting some thick steel with a 9" grinder and when I stopped in could still see a yellow glow out of the bottom of my safety glasses. It was only then that I realised that my overalls were on fire. Nearly lost Brad junior on that day. 

Jay, does she work in your basement often......I am drawn to the up front curves like a moth to a flame.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

*Battery and Beamshot*

Put together a battery today. 8x 18650 in a 2S4P configuration. Can be loaded with any multiple of 2 cells to adjust how much runtime one needs versus weight to be carried. Digikey single 18650 holders screwed to a 6mm polycarbonate plate that has cutouts milled in it for the wires to pass through.

Beam shot along my back fenceline. I don't have a camera that can do manual settings. This is with the "night scene" setting. EXIF data says...

6.3mm focal length (wide angle)
ISO 400
1/2 Second exposure
F3.6

Camera is lined up with a large fence post. The large fence posts are 40 feet apart.

It is kind of floody. I do wish it were a bit tighter. I have not used it on the bike yet. Maybe I'll like it better after a few rides, otherwise it will find a new home.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

it does look a bit floody, but not super wide. Seems like it would make an excellent bar light with a thrower helmet light - I'd be happy if it was my light


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

mattthemuppet said:


> it does look a bit floody, but not super wide. Seems like it would make an excellent bar light with a thrower helmet light - I'd be happy if it was my light


The beamshot looks narrower in the picture than real life. I suspect the 1/2 second exposure has something to do with that. I discovered my camera has a "fireworks" mode that gives a 4 second exposure. That would put it closer to the MTBR standard settings. I might drag the gear out back again tonight and take another shot at the shot.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

I often find that that's the case - it's really hard to get a decent feel of a light from a beamshot picture as a result. I find that wall shots are actually quite helpful as they do a better job of capturing what's going on in the beam, even if that is hard to translate to real life.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

mattthemuppet said:


> I often find that that's the case - it's really hard to get a decent feel of a light from a beamshot picture as a result. I find that wall shots are actually quite helpful as they do a better job of capturing what's going on in the beam, even if that is hard to translate to real life.


Agreed. In particular, Gemini was using a crosshairs with measurements. I could clearly judge what was going on because they had the original MS beam on there (tunnel spot).


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I don't think its super floody, but it seams to lack punch in that pic. Hopefully that's just down to the camera and the 1/2 second exposure.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Goldigger said:


> I don't think its super floody, but it seams to lack punch in that pic. Hopefully that's just down to the camera and the 1/2 second exposure.


I wouldn't say it is super floody either, just medium flood. As much as anything, my favorite barlight uses reflectors instead of optics. It has a more pronounced cut-off at the edge of the flood. That gives a tighter impression.

The light does throw. By eye it puts light on my fence corner post. That's ~260 feet from the camera. 1/2 second exposure just doesn't pick that up.

No doubt about it a guy could ride and ride fast with it. But there must be something better out there.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Goldigger said:


> I don't think its super floody, but it seams to lack punch in that pic. Hopefully that's just down to the camera and the 1/2 second exposure.


I have a few rides in with it and 1 really good ride and the verdict is in....Not enough "punch". Tons of light, but it is not projected far enough out for my preference. I like my old dual MCE with reflectors better even though it is probably 30% less light.

Maybe a 6 up with Reginas....


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Vancbiker said:


> I have a few rides in with it and 1 really good ride and the verdict is in....Not enough "punch". Tons of light, but it is not projected far enough out for my preference. I like my old dual MCE with reflectors better even though it is probably 30% less light.
> 
> Maybe a 6 up with Reginas....


That's no good mate. Is there enough room to put 3 cut down Regina's on 1 side?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

brad72 said:


> That's no good mate. Is there enough room to put 3 cut down Regina's on 1 side?


I would rather sell it than try to hack up something.

I really like the beam of my helmet light using the Reginas that I can't help but think a 5 or 6 up of them would be really good. Couple of other light projects to do before tackling another design though.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

How many lumen you think it's? Six up at how many amps? I actually like my quazzle easy led unit with the narrow lens but you have two on there, right?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

gticlay said:


> How many lumen you think it's? Six up at how many amps? I actually like my quazzle easy led unit with the narrow lens but you have two on there, right?


LEDs are driven at 1.17A each. Theoretical output should be around 2k lumen. Real world about 1600 It is plenty bright no mistake about that, I just find myself liking the tighter beam that usually comes with a reflector. I just got back from another short ride and just used this light, no helmet light. I was asking myself what am I really dissatisfied about, it's a pretty kick a$$ light. Probably just talking myself into another design/build.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

That's how I feel about my 7up light... It's floody but so darn bright it's easy to ride trails fast with.


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