# How to remove stripped torx screw!?



## andrewkissam (Jan 3, 2014)

I was swapping out brake rotors earlier and managed to strip one of the T25 torx heads. Out of frustration I attempted another bolt, carefully this time, only to strip it too. I was thinking to remove these bolts could I grind down two sides of the bolt head flat and use pliers on the flattened sides to loosen the bolt? Or are there any better options? They have blue loctite on them from the factory and are extremely tight. Whoever decided a tiny T25 bolt was enough to tighten and loosen a brake rotor needs to get their head checked. An allen bolt would make much more sense. Thanks in advance for any help.


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Have you tried sticking an allen wrench to see if it will fit?


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## andrewkissam (Jan 3, 2014)

Thanks for the quick reply but no the allen wrench slipped too much


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Grind a groove into it with a dremel and use a flathead screwdriver to extract it.


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

And if that doesn't work, get a bolt extractor


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## lewke (Apr 14, 2004)

If you don't have a bolt extractor, I'd just drill off the heads......once you remove the rotor you can use pliers to remove the rest......


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

lewke said:


> If you don't have a bolt extractor, I'd just drill off the heads......once you remove the rotor you can use pliers to remove the rest......


That.


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## -Todd- (Jun 13, 2011)

Blue Loctite isn't high strength either. At any rate, a soldering iron on the tip of the fastener will soften it to nothing...


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## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

lewke said:


> If you don't have a bolt extractor, I'd just drill off the heads......once you remove the rotor you can use pliers to remove the rest......


Yep. That's what I did. I actually used a Dremel and a small grinding wheel to carefully grind off the bolt head.


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## andrewkissam (Jan 3, 2014)

Hey everyone im the one who posted this question and im just checking back up on the thread. I think im going to go with the idea of drilling off the heads and using pliers to remove the rest. Will pliers be enough to grip the tiny nib thats left especially with the blue loctite thats gripping on the threads? 

Thanks guys


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## azorr (Jul 9, 2012)

I highly recommend grinding a slot in the head and trying with a flat screwdriver first. If it works it will be much easier, and if it doesn't work you can still take the head off and try the pliers.



andrewkissam said:


> Hey everyone im the one who posted this question and im just checking back up on the thread. I think im going to go with the idea of drilling off the heads and using pliers to remove the rest. Will pliers be enough to grip the tiny nib thats left especially with the blue loctite thats gripping on the threads?
> 
> Thanks guys


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

If you can drill the pilot hole in the first place, bolt extractors are very easy and reliable. A left-threaded bit is a good way to start, and sometimes enough on its own. This only gets harder as you run out of material to work with.


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## dirtyjack (Jan 22, 2010)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> Grind a groove into it with a dremel and use a flathead screwdriver to extract it.


+1 - this has worked for me in the past


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## azxd04 (Sep 16, 2009)

Another vote for adding a slot for a flathead with a dremel. I did the same thing last week on two of the torx bolts and a dremel allowed me to use a flathead and get them out.


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## Mallet21 (Sep 24, 2013)

After a lot of messing around a couple weeks ago with trying to get a stripped rotor bolt out I went to my local hardware store and picked up a Grabit bolt extractor: Alden 8401P Pro Grabit Broken Bolt and Damaged Screw Extractor #1 - Amazon.com

Bolt came right out....very pleased with the result.


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## ziscwg (May 18, 2007)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> Grind a groove into it with a dremel and use a flathead screwdriver to extract it.


^^^^^
This has worked for me more than once in a variety of "screwed" up situations like this.


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## Rock (Jan 13, 2004)

The slot method works well or a variation I've also used is take a screwdriver or light chisel with a hammer and tap on the screw head (from the top, at an angle) in the direction to loosen it and that will typically work or at least break it free. Does that make sense? You screw up the head of the screw, but I think it's screwed up already.

Use some heat with any method. Even a hair dryer for 3-4 minutes may create enough to flow the locktite to break it loose.


Cutting or drill the head off as a last resort, you don't have a lot left to grab when the head is gone.


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## andrewkissam (Jan 3, 2014)

Thanks Rock! I think im going to go forward wih that idea. Can't wait to hit the trails again with my new brakeset!


Rock said:


> The slot method works well or a variation I've also used is take a screwdriver or light chisel with a hammer and tap on the screw head (from the top, at an angle) in the direction to loosen it and that will typically work or at least break it free. Does that make sense? You screw up the head of the screw, but I think it's screwed up already.
> 
> Use some heat with any method. Even a hair dryer for 3-4 minutes may create enough to flow the locktite to break it loose.
> 
> Cutting or drill the head off as a last resort, you don't have a lot left to grab when the head is gone.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Once the heads are gone and the rotor is off the bolt is no longer under tension and will almost always come right on out with a pair of pliers locktite and all.


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## Kahunawood (Apr 15, 2006)

Did you try grabbing the head with vice grip pliers. Sometimes it's enough to break it loose. Then try the slotted screwdriver.


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## mtnbikej (Sep 6, 2001)

lewke said:


> If you don't have a bolt extractor, I'd just drill off the heads......once you remove the rotor you can use pliers to remove the rest......


^^^^^This......done it many times....and yes it does work.^^^^^^


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## Guest (Jan 10, 2014)

azxd04 said:


> Another vote for adding a slot for a flathead with a dremel. I did the same thing last week on two of the torx bolts and a dremel allowed me to use a flathead and get them out.


and yet another for this method. Adding heat also helps.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

nvphatty said:


> and yet another for this method. Adding heat also helps.


If you work fairly quickly, the heat from the dremel will be sufficient in softening the loctite :thumbsup:


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## (5280feet)s (May 12, 2015)

Posting on an old thread, I know... but:

Having the same issue. My torx bolts were stripped when I got the wheelset. Took it to a LBS a few minutes ago to have them check it out, dribbled all sorts of lube on them, tired to cut a slot with a hacksaw, tried just about everything else. I just tried to use an allen wrench, and am going to try a few other things... but no luck yet.

Luckily, I'm good friends with their wrenches, and one of them offered to take the wheel home with him _for free_ so he could dremmel a slot for a flathead screwdriver if I can't fix it on my own.

Funny thing is, I've always avoided that shop because they're always _so_ overpriced on both parts and labor... and their mechanics know it.


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## lewke (Apr 14, 2004)

If you have a drill you can drill the torq heads off.....I've done this a few times....


lol..I already replied to this post before 1/3/14...


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## gumby. (Mar 11, 2013)

Rock said:


> The slot method works well or a variation I've also used is take a screwdriver or light chisel with a hammer and tap on the screw head (from the top, at an angle) in the direction to loosen it and that will typically work or at least break it free. Does that make sense? You screw up the head of the screw, but I think it's screwed up already.
> 
> Use some heat with any method. Even a hair dryer for 3-4 minutes may create enough to flow the locktite to break it loose.
> 
> Cutting or drill the head off as a last resort, you don't have a lot left to grab when the head is gone.


All of the above and another variation, drilling a small hole offset to the ouside edge just deep enough to accommodate a punch and tapping it anti clockwise.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

The Loctite is key. Soldering iron or place a long torx bit in the bolt and carefully heat that with a propane torch if you don't have a suitable soldering iron. This method should always be default and done prior to stripping the torx.


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## andrewkissam (Jan 3, 2014)

OP here. Grinding the torx heads off entirely with a dremel, removing the rotor, then unscrewing the leftover nubs with a pair of pliers worked like a charm. Even with loctite the bolts came off extremely easily once the tension was removed from the threads.


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## (5280feet)s (May 12, 2015)

lewke said:


> If you have a drill you can drill the torq heads off.....I've done this a few times....
> 
> lol..I already replied to this post before 1/3/14...


How do you mean "drill off"? Just... take a drillbit to it?


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## TheDwayyo (Dec 2, 2014)

If you drill into the torx slot on the head of the bolt it will eventually shear off completely. I assume that's what he means; it's fairly standard for dealing with stripped screws.


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## lewke (Apr 14, 2004)

Yes, drill where you would put the torq head until the head falls off. Once all are off the rotor will come off and you can just use pliers to remove the rest of the bolts since there will no longer be pressure.


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## BuickGN (Aug 25, 2008)

One thing that's true about most fasteners but especially torx and allen heads, if your tool is the slightest bit worn you're going to strip the bolts out easily. I spend a little more money on these tools. The Home Depot stuff like I used to use generally lasts maybe one full rotor swap and while it will still work, it's worn enough to more easily strip the head. The other problem is tons of people use SAE where metric should be used and vice versa. Obviously not a problem with Torx. I also see many people not get full contact between the tool and the bolt/screw, the tool might be at an angle or not full inserted when they begin to apply torque. Taking a few extra seconds really helps. I was helping a friend the other day who had been struggling and I kept telling him take your time and actually look at how the tool is inserted into the torx (all the way and not at an angle).

When I've had one on the verge of stripping where I know it's not going to move without stripping, I use my impact driver. Just a simple tool that you hit with a hammer while trying to turn the bolt. It works almost every time as long as you stop before it's totally gone.

I also usually cut a flat slot if it's too far gone first. On certain fasteners like the aluminum screws that are used on many imports to hold the rotors to the hubs on the assembly lines, I just drill the head. It takes under 5 seconds to drill the head off of the aluminum screw so it's not worth doing it any other way like grinding a slot into it.


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## tartis99 (Oct 27, 2015)

This thread helped me. Using a Dremel to make a flat head screw did not work, so grinding it down with the Dremel was my only option. The rotor popped off and I was able to easily twist the screw out.









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## Tigerstripe40 (May 4, 2008)

Invest in a small  Newton-Meter torque wrench.

Another option, if you know someone who has a TIG welder, is to weld a nut onto the broken bolt then remove with a socket. I've done this many times on my auto projects and that is a much better solution than using an extractor (I always break those damned things).


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## Martin.au (Jan 1, 2006)

andrewkissam said:


> I was swapping out brake rotors earlier and managed to strip one of the T25 torx heads. Out of frustration I attempted another bolt, carefully this time, only to strip it too. I was thinking to remove these bolts could I grind down two sides of the bolt head flat and use pliers on the flattened sides to loosen the bolt? Or are there any better options? They have blue loctite on them from the factory and are extremely tight. Whoever decided a tiny T25 bolt was enough to tighten and loosen a brake rotor needs to get their head checked. An allen bolt would make much more sense. Thanks in advance for any help.


Allen bolts are actually easier to strip than torx heads.


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## GhostOfForumsPast (Feb 16, 2016)

Martin.au said:


> Allen bolts are actually easier to strip than torx heads.


I'm sure the OP has been waiting for over 2 1/2 years for your scintillating response!

Great and timely contribution! (stating the obvious)


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## tartis99 (Oct 27, 2015)

GhostOfForumsPast said:


> I'm sure the OP has been waiting for over 2 1/2 years for your scintillating response!
> 
> Great and timely contribution! (stating the obvious)


Either way it helped me. Thread revived. 

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## Martin.au (Jan 1, 2006)

GhostOfForumsPast said:


> I'm sure the OP has been waiting for over 2 1/2 years for your scintillating response!
> 
> Great and timely contribution! (stating the obvious)


I know some people find these internet things hard, but if you look just above the name of the poster, you can see when they posted. Then you can tell when the thread was revived, and who revived it.


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## Galois (Jul 29, 2020)

I have a chain guide that is mounted to the bolt on the other side, does this have to be removed before removing the screw on the other side?

All the other pivots in the rear triangle is possible to loosen.


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