# Any Boost Single Speed Hubs?



## buell (Oct 15, 2015)

Does anybody make a Boost 148 single speed rear hub? I can't seem to find one. TIA.


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## jja (Jan 14, 2004)

I couldn't find one either. CK said no plans, Phil Wood said they're still pondering 142 TA. Paul himself said they'll have one out "early next year" (2017).


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

buell said:


> Does anybody make a Boost 148 single speed rear hub? I can't seem to find one. TIA.


If they don't already, I bet Onyx will if you ask 'em nicely.


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## A1an (Jun 3, 2007)

Perhaps try reaching out to Hope to see if they offer or plan to offer caps for their hub?


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## buell (Oct 15, 2015)

mikesee said:


> If they don't already, I bet Onyx will if you ask 'em nicely.


sure enough, they have it!
090991, MTB BOOST CL HGSS - 148/12mm thru



A1an said:


> Perhaps try reaching out to Hope to see if they offer or plan to offer caps for their hub?


end caps wouldn't work because the rotor would need to be spaced out 3mm too.


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## A1an (Jun 3, 2007)

Boostinator ? Lindarets


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## buell (Oct 15, 2015)

A1an said:


> Boostinator ? Lindarets


i guess that could work with the hope pro 2 ss/trials hub. i'm partial to centerlock though. it's a good alternative to the onyx to consider. thanks.


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## quicksilverta (Feb 3, 2008)

Check it out! Boost 148 single speed!

__
http://instagr.am/p/BH0FelyDw9S/


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## buell (Oct 15, 2015)

quicksilverta said:


> Check it out! Boost 148 single speed!
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/BH0FelyDw9S/


pfft... needs moar centerlock
http://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/any-boost-single-speed-hubs-1012813.html#post12651981


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

Hadley is supposed to have one. He said he would be using the 160mm hub shell if he could and just need to add the short ss free hub.


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## ashpioletrev (Dec 6, 2005)

Paul's makes one in 142 through axle? Close....


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## paleh0rse (Jun 20, 2011)

hardmtnbiker said:


> Hadley is supposed to have one. He said he would be using the 160mm hub shell if he could and just need to add the short ss free hub.


Sorry for hijacking, but did he say anything about also releasing a (non-SS) boost148 conversion for their older 135/142mm rear hubs?

I'd REALLY love to avoid building a new wheel if I pick up a new boost frame...lol


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

I'll ask him. 
For me since I own several hub sets I'm just going to try and keep my 142x12 bikes or only buy older models with the 142x12 drop outs.


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## paleh0rse (Jun 20, 2011)

hardmtnbiker said:


> I'll ask him.
> For me since I own several hub sets I'm just going to try and keep my 142x12 bikes or only buy older models with the 142x12 drop outs.


Awesome, thank you! Please pm or reply here if you find out anything!


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## charlatan (Aug 14, 2010)

*White industries*

White industries makes one...

mmmm sweeet


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

They will have a Boost 148 SS specific hub in a few weeks. Black on the first run, other colors later. They said they see the demand and have been working to get the SS Boost hub ready. 
The bad news is NO axle conversion for the 142 to Boost. The alignment is just too far off.


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## paleh0rse (Jun 20, 2011)

hardmtnbiker said:


> They will have a Boost 148 SS specific hub in a few weeks. Black on the first run, other colors later. They said they see the demand and have been working to get the SS Boost hub ready.
> The bad news is NO axle conversion for the 142 to Boost. The alignment is just too far off.


Great info, thank you!


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## The STIG (May 20, 2011)

ive had the shop call hadley a couple times, im waiting on these. should be soon. also reached out to a few others

hope: "we have no plans to make a 12/148 boost ss hub sorry"

i9: "its in the works, but on back burner"

profile: "no plans to build one at this time"


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

charlatan said:


> White industries makes one...
> 
> mmmm sweeet


Don't see any mention of a Boost singlespeed hub there, just their standard Boost hubs. Did I miss something?


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## charlatan (Aug 14, 2010)

bikeny said:


> Don't see any mention of a Boost singlespeed hub there, just their standard Boost hubs. Did I miss something?


Sorry, it's probably me that missed something. They have boost at the link... I thought it would work for SS.


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## paleh0rse (Jun 20, 2011)

charlatan said:


> Sorry, it's probably me that missed something. They have boost at the link... I thought it would work for SS.


It would certainly still work with a SS setup using spacers in place of a cassette, but it's not SS-specific (which has a few other unique benefits).


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

charlatan said:


> Sorry, it's probably me that missed something. They have boost at the link... I thought it would work for SS.


It will work for singlespeed, just like any other Boost hub will work. The OP is asking for a singlespeed specific Boost hub. Meaning either a very short freehub body or a hub that uses a thread on freewheel. Both result in a hub with wider and evenly spaced flanges for a stronger more durable wheel.


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## charlatan (Aug 14, 2010)

^ Thanks bikeny for the clarification. Sorry for the noise in the thread.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Time to bump this thread. What's new in boost SS hubs? The Paul hub looks like a winner if you can deal with freewheels.


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## .40AET (Jun 7, 2007)

Industry Nine
https://industrynine.com/torch-classic-mtb-hubs/classic-j-bend-mtb-single-speed


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## azjonboy (Dec 21, 2006)

I have the Onyx boost SS hub. High quality and silence.


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## babybabe (Dec 24, 2017)

Lovin' my Hope Trials/SS.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

babybabe said:


> Lovin' my Hope Trials/SS.


I don't see the boost version. Is that too new to be on their site?


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## babybabe (Dec 24, 2017)

*Hub493*



mack_turtle said:


> I don't see the boost version. Is that too new to be on their site?


Oops, forgot to add that the Hope needs the Hope 148 boost conversion HUB493 to bring it out from 142mm. When I was hub shopping a year ago, I looked long and hard. I nearly got the Paul but ultimately decided against the freewheel setup. The Onyx looked good as well but to me the cost above and beyond the other options was a little over the top. I really wanted a 148-specific hub but haven't thought twice about the conversion bits since I pulled the trigger.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

thank you for clarifying.

I am always thinking ahead to what I would put on my bike if I had to replace XYZ. if I am going to replace a rear hub these days, I don't want little adapters when I can buy the right hub for the job.

Onyx and I9 look nice but $$$ for a hub that will last a few years before obsolescence when ultra boost infinity hubs come out. Paul might be the way to do it.


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

Just go SS Superboost!


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## babybabe (Dec 24, 2017)

I hear you. With so few options, it's a compromise. Bear in mind, with the Hope adapter it's really just the disk-side spacer that's added. The axle piece from the kit 0just replaces an existing, slightly shorter piece. (Personally, that bugs me exactly as much as having to use IS posts between my frame and calipers bugs me.) But the theoretical downside of the Hope is that you miss out on 6mm of Boost.

The Paul hub looks awesome. I've held one, and they feel substantial. Please report back when you get something built up.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Paul makes a boost WORD hub with a 55mm chainline. The non-boost hub has a 52mm chainline. Why so wide when most cranks would put your 1x ring at 49mm or narrower?


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## lpt1 (Sep 16, 2009)

Why do You need ss boost setup?
Plus tire is too narrow for boost spacing, fat tire is too wide.
My 26x3" ss has normal 135x10 rear hub, 57mm chainline and 165mm Q-factor.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

lpt1 said:


> Why do You need ss boost setup?
> Plus tire is too narrow for boost spacing, fat tire is too wide.


If your frame has 148mm spacing, you don't have a choice. 99% of frames made in the last few years are boost. you have to use a boost hub or a 142mm hub with some goofy axle and rotor spacers. Why not take advantage of the extra-wide set flanges and use a boost hub?


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## lpt1 (Sep 16, 2009)

I agree, spacers are the worst solution. It seems that boost frame is the same oddity as vertical dropouts for singlespeed use.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

mack_turtle said:


> Paul makes a boost WORD hub with a 55mm chainline. The non-boost hub has a 52mm chainline. Why so wide when most cranks would put your 1x ring at 49mm or narrower?


55mm does seem really wide?!

I think most boost cranksets are more like 51-53mm chainline (even though 49 would be ideal for chainline with a cassette).

Many boost frames with wide chainstays won't fit a normal size (32t or more) ring unless you use the wider boost chainline


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

The agreed-upon standard for boost is a 52mm chainline, end of story. Old 135/142 hub drivetrains use a 49mm chainline. I emailed Paul but I am curious why they list their hubs as 3mm wider than the standard for which that hub was made.


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## lpt1 (Sep 16, 2009)

55mm isn't wide even for non-boost ss, 57-58mm is a maximum. So, add 2.5mm with boost, 60mm is the real interest of "boost ss". Something like something special as 3.25" tires, for example.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

lpt1 said:


> 55mm isn't wide even for non-boost ss, 57-58mm is a maximum. So, add 2.5mm with boost, 60mm is the real interest of "boost ss". Something like something special as 3.25" tires, for example.


No, 52mm is boost standard. Right? did I miss something? where did you read that you can put cranks with a 60mm chainline on a boost drivetrain?

edit- the hub in question takes a freewheel, so the manufacturer did not intend for the chainline to be adjustable. likewise, you usually can't change the chainline on a modern crankset more than a few millimeters. I think you can flip your chainring on most of them and switch from 49mm (non-boost) to 52mm for a boost drivetrain. on a single speed bike, the rear cog has to line up with the chainring, which is going to be either 49mm for an old standard 1x crankset or 52 for boost. Paul lists their hub at 52 and 55mm, which is wider than both. maybe they intend for you to use it with their cranks?


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## lpt1 (Sep 16, 2009)

*mack_turtle*, don't be confused by standard multispeed chainline, that live in the centre of cassette! We can place our single cog in the rightmost position. Or use dedicated ss hubs. Way bigger chainline, anyway.

But, I can't argue against 99% of frames! It's the key...


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

lpt1 said:


> *mack_turtle*, don't be confused by standard multispeed chainline, that live in the centre of cassette! We can place our single cog in the rightmost position. Or use dedicated ss hubs. Way bigger chainline, anyway.
> 
> But, I can't argue against 99% of frames! It's the key...


do not be confused by freewheel hubs. that's what I am talking about- the Paul WORD hub. you cannot put the cog in the right-most position on a freewheel hub. the freehweel threads on and the cog ends up where it ends up. there's no way to adjust it by enough to make it line up. go looks at a Paul WORD hub to see what I mean.


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## lpt1 (Sep 16, 2009)

Ok. But, first, usually dedicated ss hubs has wider chainline, compared to multispeed hubs with the same dropout width. And, second, freewheel hubs also can be adjusted a little with some spacers under a freewheel.

What about Paul, it seems that they don't deliver available maximum. Non-boost -- 52mm, Boost -- 55mm. Loss of space at the right of WF. I use Surly Ultra New hub with 1mm spacer under frewheel (White Industries), that give me 57mm chainline on 135mm hub!


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

lpt1 said:


> Ok. But, first, usually dedicated ss hubs has wider chainline, compared to multispeed hubs with the same dropout width.


no, that's patently false.

not sure what we're not communicating here. a non-boost crankset is going to put the chainline at 49mm and a boost is 52mm. those are static, not adjustable on modern cranksets.

since those are not adjustable, you need to adjust the chainline on the hub to match the crankset. the spacing of the crankset determines where you want your cog to go, not the other way around. most SS hubs have a short freehub body with enough space to allow adjustment to allow your cog to line up with the front chainring. for most hubs, that means you don't want your cog to end up outside of that 48-53mm window of the chain will be pulling at an angle and wearing out teeth prematurely.

I don't know how you're pulling off a 57mm chainline. how in the world are you getting the chainring that far out? it's about how far the teeth are from the center of the hub/ frame, and matching the ring and cog so they are the same distance so that the chain pulls in a straight line. if you take a hub that has a rigid chainline of 55mm and put spacers on it, you're putting the cog even farther out than the 52mm of non-adjustable chainline on the crankset.

my confusion about Paul hubs is that they designed a hub with no effective way to adjust the chainline (I would not feel safe putting more than a 1mm spacer behind a freewheel) that does not, on paper at least, line up with the rigid, non-adjustable standards. they should have made the non-boost hub 49mm to match the NON-adjustable chainline of a modern crankset and the boost hub 52mm to match the NON-adjustable, iron-clad established standard chainline of boost cranks.


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## lpt1 (Sep 16, 2009)

I completely agree with You. While we speak about modern cranksets, i.e. non-adjustable integrated spindle and single-chainring, single-position spiders.

But there are many other crank options, besides this one. Square taper BB has many spindle length variants, and can be installed with a spacer under right bb cap, for fine tuning. Different cranks has some little difference in geometry and effective chainline relative to axle end. Double or triple spiders has two positions for chainring: inner and outer, so +-7mm here. So, modern is not always good, especially for dedicated ss build. Yes, I am a retrogrouch.

My setup: shimano UN-26 square taper bb with 110mm spindle, installed with 1mm spacer under right bb cup, and middleburn RS7 cranks with double 5-arm 110BCD spider, and surly chainring on its outer position. So, incredible chainline with minimal Q-factor on non-boost frame with plus tires. I had to file alu spider lockring lightly, to avoid its rub against bb cap. But I could increase front chainline, if I wanted to, with different spindle length: 113mm, 115, 118 and so on, but there is a limit on the rear: more spacers under frewheel make it rub against dropout.

What about rear spacers - there is fixed threading, that successfully use half of thread width, compared to freewheel.


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

This is one of the reasons why I like to use SS hubs with short freehubs instead of freewheels. It's MUCH easier to get you chainline dialed in perfectly. But, let's assume you are using the above mentioned Paul hub with it's 55mm chainline.

It's actually very easy to match that with a modern crankset. At least it is with Race Face and SRAM. Both have direct mount chainrings that are offset 6mm toward the bike centerline for 142mm hubs, and then changed to a 3mm offset ring for Boost. So to take a Boost crank and move the chainline out from 52mm to 55mm only requires a new chainring with 0mm offset. If you want to move it out to 58mm, just flip the 3mm offset ring over. There are a couple of manufacturers making these chainrings (Wolf Tooth) as well as the manufacturers. This is for bikes with threaded BSA bottom brackets. Others like BB30 or PF30 will have similar options.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

bikeny said:


> It's actually very easy to match that with a modern crankset.


_Unlike_ reverting to the cart-and-buggy days of square taper cranks, _that_ makes sense. My experience for the last few years has been converted 104BCD cranks with single rings, so the adjustments possible on a modern direct-mount interface is new to me.

Sounds like I would want to buy new cranks with that Paul hub. I'd rather not, but with the price of all the other SS boost options, it might come out in the wash and work better. I might wait for Hope to make a more budget-friendly option.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

edit: nevermind. I need to refresh before I reply


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## miles (Jan 6, 2004)

This thread is of interest to me since I'm considering updating my crankset from the square-taper horse and buggy current setup.

As has been pointed out, the WORD rear hub is set for a chainline of 52mm, which was very easy to do back in the days of Amish single speeding.

I'd like to use an XTR M9000 crankset with a One-Up ring. They include the correct chainring bolt spacers for a 50mm chainline, which they think is best for 1x drivetrains. 

Since my bike has a 68mm English shell, it'll be easy enough to cheat the entire BB over 2mm to the right to get the hairline spot-on, and I'd never notice the offset in the cranks.

Anybody see any problem with this idea?


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

As long as the non-driveside arm (and the foot on it) clears the chainstay it should work fine


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I am definitely in the market for a new hub. Right now it's a toss-up between a Hope Pro 4 (boost axle with a bunch of cog spacers on it) or a Paul WORD 148 with a WI trials freewheel. I can't find anything else that is not ludicrously expensive or has crappy POE. Unless someone comes out with another reasonably priced boost SS hub, those seem to be my only options. Thoughts?


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## 834905 (Mar 8, 2018)

You're going to spend the same amount for the WORD + WI Freewheel as you would for the Hadley Boost SS hub. I've known quite a few people, including a couple big dudes who break a lot of stuff that owned these and they all loved them. Nice engagement too.

https://www.balleracing.com/hadley-...ubs/black-single-speed-148mm-x-12mm-thru-axle


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Paul hub $165
WI freewheel $99
Total $255, $60 less than a Hadley hub.

Hope Pro 4 boost 6bolt- $205 at Worldwide.

I have a Hadley hub. The adjustable bearing preload is more of a liability than a feature. It's never just right- either the hub drags or the axle has play in it.

The first one skipped CONSTANTLY, so I had to unlace my wheel and send the hub back to them. The replacement they sent me also skips. I have read very mixed reviews of these hubs skipping and I guess I got a dud twice in a row.

I have replaced the hub bearing twice in less than two years and now it's on the fritz again. I am done with Hadley.


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## 834905 (Mar 8, 2018)

Wow, I haven't heard any reviews like that about Hadley's. I have personally never owned them but have quite a few friends who love theirs.

I am starting to think hubs are just a crap shoot no matter how much you pay. I have never heard a single negative thing about Chris King, but a buddy of mine just built up a really nice wheelset and has had nothing but problems with his. It skips worse than any hub I have ever seen.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

https://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/popping-noise-hadley-rear-hub-498280.html


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## azjonboy (Dec 21, 2006)

Rode a CK SS hub for years in 135 mode. That hub is 10 years old and going strong on my Klunker.

The last 3 years have been on a Onyx Boost SS hub. Yes, they are pricey, but when I’m in the woods or on the rocks, it is dead silent. The engagement is fantastic. 

Buy once, cry once


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

azjonboy said:


> Buy once, cry once


That's why I bought a Hadley, supposedly.

Give it two years and your top of the line boost hub will be obsolete.


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## azjonboy (Dec 21, 2006)

That will only happen if I take it off and don’t use it. 
Which isn’t likely.


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## willawry'd (Oct 3, 2005)

Interesting on the Hadleys. I've built up 4 sets and had the popping/slipping issue on the last set i built...since day one. Swapped the freewheel with one of my other sets and that *almost* eliminated the issue. Occurs maybe once every other ride now. My I9's do it as well but less often. Wonder if they're all having tolerance stacking issues.

I was contemplating on sending it back before I start my next build. Currently laced up to a set of Arch MK3s that have the cracking-at-the-nipples issue. But sounds like it may be futile.


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## BrianU (Feb 4, 2004)

SingleSpeedSteven said:


> Wow, I haven't heard any reviews like that about Hadley's. I have personally never owned them but have quite a few friends who love theirs.
> 
> I am starting to think hubs are just a crap shoot no matter how much you pay. I have never heard a single negative thing about Chris King, but a buddy of mine just built up a really nice wheelset and has had nothing but problems with his. It skips worse than any hub I have ever seen.


Interesting issue about the skipping. Has he ever had someone with experience with these hubs, take a look at it? If a person adjusts bearing preload similar to how you would set it on most other hubs with adjustable preload, it can cause the exact problem your friend is having. I would also be curious to know what kind of lube is on the ring drive.

I bought a Chris King SS hub used and have run it on two different bikes over the last 6 years. It has been bullet proof.


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## BrianU (Feb 4, 2004)

mack_turtle said:


> I am definitely in the market for a new hub. Right now it's a toss-up between a Hope Pro 4 (boost axle with a bunch of cog spacers on it) or a Paul WORD 148 with a WI trials freewheel. I can't find anything else that is not ludicrously expensive or has crappy POE. Unless someone comes out with another reasonably priced boost SS hub, those seem to be my only options. Thoughts?


I have been running a Hope Pro 4 boost hub for the last year. Most of that was on the Nimble 9 and then moved it over to the Honzo I recently built up. No issues so far. Definitely no skipping, but I will say the 44 poe is noticeable when coming from the CKs on my Unit. It did not take me long to get used to it and do not give it much thought now, but then this is also on my geared bike where I tend to spin more. I bring this up, thinking about your recent post about how you ride the technical, rocky stuff and are used to the Hadley's poe. I don't know how much this would be an issue for you.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

I like the Paul/WI setup for simplicity. The WI freewheels are bomber and there's not much to go wrong with that system. Bonus: you get to support/own some awesome American made products. (I have this setup on one bike)

You'll also want the 4 prong tool for freewheels if you don't own it already. You'll need to put it in a vice to remove the freewheel. Also I find it very helpful to bolt it on there with a skewer just to break it free (then remove immediately before you spin it off). 

Sorry to hear you're having problems with your Hadley. I get the occasional pop from mine also, I have two of them. No major issues though and no problems with adjusting preload. To be fair I get popping from my P321 too. 

I had a Hope SS hub, it was fine if maybe a bit draggy. I've read adding some grease to the bearings helps this. It was too loud for me and I ended up selling it before long. I think Onyx gets my money next.


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## 834905 (Mar 8, 2018)

I have been very happy with my WORD + WI Trials freewheel combo. The only disadvantage I can see is swapping gears is a pain, but if you live in a place where you run the same gearing all of the time (like me) then it's really not an issue.

You can also buy a Profile freewheel if you want more engagement than the WI. I have been using Profile stuff since I was a kid in my BMX days and they make super quality stuff.

https://www.profileracing.com/product/elite-freewheel/


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Thanks for the ideas, folks.

I have an Eno hub and WI freewheel on my "gravel" bike so I am comfortable with swapping freewheels. I was under the impression that Hope Pro 4 hubs had a higher POE, but maybe that's just their SS hub, which requires fiddly spacers for boost.

I am also considering this Bontrager wheel: Bontrager Line Comp. Supposedly you can buy an extra set of pawls to put in that freehub to double the POE for for pretty cheap.

Still leaning toward the Paul/ WI combo though.


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## CCSS (Apr 6, 2004)

mack_turtle said:


> I am also considering this Bontrager wheel: Bontrager Line Comp. Supposedly you can buy an extra set of pawls to put in that freehub to double the POE for for pretty cheap.
> 
> Still leaning toward the Paul/ WI combo though.


I've also run an ENO Hub/WI combo in the past. Good stuff, but... If you ever want to run the wheelset on a frame w/ funky spacing, you won't have the flexibility changing cog spacing.

I have Bontrager Line Pro wheels on one of my bikes and I've been really pleasantly surprised with everything about them. They have the 108 POE out of the box and it's great. And the ability to simply drop 3 extra pawls into the 54 POE setup is pretty slick. I just watched someone do it on the YouTubes


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

mack_turtle said:


> I was under the impression that Hope Pro 4 hubs had a higher POE, but maybe that's just their SS hub, which requires fiddly spacers for boost.


The Pro4 has 44POE, the Trilas/SS version has 88POE. WI Freewheel has 36poe, the Trials (green) version has 72 for comparison.


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

*OneSpeed* said:


> I had a Hope SS hub, it was fine if maybe a bit draggy. I've read adding some grease to the bearings helps this. It was too loud for me and I ended up selling it before long. I think Onyx gets my money next.


My Hope SS was loud AF, though the noise was kinda cool at first but it got to annoy me so much that I built up a new wheelset with an Onyx rear hub, a real game changer, like having a fixie when you pedal but all the DH fun coasting and the silence suits SSing to a tee.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

FWIW, I was looking into domestically manufactured hubs and had to ask:



Chris King has no interest in making SS hubs at all. they suggested using a regular HG freehub and Gearclamps. _meh_

Industry Nine makes the Hydra SS but they don't intend to make a SS version of their cheaper (but still very nice) 1/1 hubs.

Hadley SS hub


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## BrianU (Feb 4, 2004)

mack_turtle said:


> FWIW, I was looking into domestically manufactured hubs and had to ask:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Bummer CK discontinued that hub, although not surprised. Bought mine used 7-8 years ago and once the novelty of riding CK hubs wore off, they became just one of those things that has always worked without a thought. I have considered ordering a spare driveshell, since that it is only SS specific part that I could possibly see wearing out someday.


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

*Hadley's last!*

I've had this Hadley SS hub for over a decade and on 3 different bikes. Sure they get rebuilt with new seals bearings and paws, that's normal. Especially getting moshed on 3-5x a week up my local trails. This is the original SS hub Hadley made and I'm currently running ABEC 3 bearings. I've never bothered with ceramic or hybrid but that's a different topic. I have the newer Hadley SS hub I bought about 5 years ago because I like to have a backup wheel to avoid any downtime. Sometimes I source my bearings from Hadley or I just get from other sources. If I bought a 148 SS frame I'd probably get another Hadley, they are a real value. My other considerations would be a WI or a Hope Trials SS hub, since I have wheels with those hubs too and they are really nice and again a great value. I admire ONYX, I9,CK, P321 and many of the other high end component companies but seriously $500-$600 or more for a rear hub? It just seems like it's a bit overpriced.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I am glad to see that Hadley is making a *SS boost hub*. thats a good price for a domestic-made hub that generally has a good reputation.

if you have a non-boost Hadley and want to put it in a 148mm spaced frame, they make a pretty slick *conversion kit* too.

hopefully other people don't get one that sucks as badly as mine. constantly skipping, axle spins rough after a few rides with a bearing swap, no website for support.


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

mack_turtle said:


> I am glad to see that Hadley is making a SS boost hub. hopefully other people don't get one that sucks as badly as mine. constantly skipping, axle spins rough after a few rides with a bearing swap, no website for support.


That sucks bro, I'm sure if you call them and send it to them they'll replace or repair it. But seriously that's a big hassle and not to mention the downtime waiting. 
I think I would look at another brand and build a new wheel then send that to Hadley.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Paul rear hub $146 https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/components/hubs/rear-hubs/boost-disk-word-148mm/
White Industries Freewheel- $80-125 FREEWHEELS - White Industries

Super reliable setup, made in USA.


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## CCSS (Apr 6, 2004)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Paul rear hub $146 https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/components/hubs/rear-hubs/boost-disk-word-148mm/
> White Industries Freewheel- $80-125 FREEWHEELS - White Industries
> 
> Super reliable setup, made in USA.


Love Paul and WI, but would be hard pressed to give up the ability to slightly tweak chainline with spacers. Not to mention the memories of removing BMX freewheels with the four pronged tool tool and a vice.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

CCSS said:


> Love Paul and WI, but would be hard pressed to give up the ability to slightly tweak chainline with spacers. Not to mention the memories of removing BMX freewheels with the four pronged tool tool and a vice.


If you want a *Boost SS hub*, neither of those things would be a deal breaker. There are lots of crank and chainring options now making chainline easy, and how often do you really have to remove a WI freewheel? Rarely. It's not like a shitty disposable BMX freewheel. Even if you have to take it to a shop, it takes 60 seconds.

I used this setup on my Mtb for years (but with a Surly hub), and just re-laced the hub into a 26" wheel for my DJer. I like it.


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## KennyWatson (Sep 4, 2017)

Forgive my ignorance as I'm just beginning to look at singlespeeding, but how relevant is a single speed specific boost hub with kits like the zinger XD conversion kit?

https://problemsolversbike.com/article/fresh-solution-zinger-xd-singlespeed-adapter-kit

I guess it's mainly just aesthetically not quite as clean?
I like the idea of having lots of chainline adjustment too.


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## Crackhead_Willy (Sep 7, 2009)

Just built up a wheelset for my SS and loving the Hope SS/Trials hub. Mine was the bolt on version so I had to get the 142 thru axle (HUB1009-49S) and the Boost kit (HUB493). The boost kits is just some slightly longer end caps and a couple spacers for the rotor.

Even though I had to buy some extras, I think it is still a good deal given the reasonable price of the SS/trial hubs, high POE, light weight, cool sound (I think so anyways) and tweakable SS cog.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

KennyWatson said:


> Forgive my ignorance as I'm just beginning to look at singlespeeding, but how relevant is a single speed specific boost hub with kits like the zinger XD conversion kit?
> 
> https://problemsolversbike.com/article/fresh-solution-zinger-xd-singlespeed-adapter-kit


If you have a XD driver, there's no way to put a SS cog on it other than using that Zinger kit. Xd is specifically designed for multi-cog cassettes, so Problem Solvers designed a workaround. most singlespeed cogs are designed for a Shimano Hyperglide freehub design. your other choice is to buy a HG driver for your hub if you have a XD freehub.

I suspect Problem Solvers will be the first to market with an SS cog solutions to Microspline freehubs too, but I doubt there's sufficient demand for that.


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

Crackhead_Willy said:


> Just built up a wheelset for my SS and loving the Hope SS/Trials hub. Mine was the bolt on version so I had to get the 142 thru axle (HUB1009-49S) and the Boost kit (HUB493). The boost kits is just some slightly longer end caps and a couple spacers for the rotor.
> 
> Even though I had to buy some extras, I think it is still a good deal given the reasonable price of the SS/trial hubs, high POE, light weight, cool sound (I think so anyways) and tweakable SS cog.
> 
> View attachment 1321397


I have that Hope SS/Trials hub, it's pretty loud and does sound great. No need for a hiker warning bell. 
Thanks for the Boost kit info, if I ever get a Boost frame I'll need it.


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## CCSS (Apr 6, 2004)

*OneSpeed* said:


> If you want a *Boost SS hub*, neither of those things would be a deal breaker. There are lots of crank and chainring options now making chainline easy, and how often do you really have to remove a WI freewheel? Rarely. It's not like a shitty disposable BMX freewheel. Even if you have to take it to a shop, it takes 60 seconds.
> 
> I used this setup on my Mtb for years (but with a Surly hub), and just re-laced the hub into a 26" wheel for my DJer. I like it.


Different strokes for different folks I guess. I also used BMX freewheels for years. Crappy ACS freewheels on a Surly Hub, and a WI on a Paul hub.

If you fine tune your gearing for different trails, changing BMX freewheels is a PITA (to me) vs changing a cog on a freehub. And nowadays, with the advent of elliptical, narrow-wide blingy chainrings, it's almost as expensive to change a ring as it is a WI BMX freewheel.

Finally, I get that - depending on your crankset - you may have many options for chainring offsets to tweak chainline, but it's typically a heck of a lot easier (and cheaper) to fine tune the spacing of a cog on a freehub.

My opinion.


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## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

Can anyone here confirm what the chainline is with a White freehub on a Boost Paul Word hub? I saw 55mm and 52mm above. 

I'm assuming the 55mm is correct but would like to know for sure. Superboost chainline is 56mm so I'm thinking a Superboost crank paired with this combo would work well. 

Thanks.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Shinkers said:


> Can anyone here confirm what the chainline is with a White freehub on a Boost Paul Word hub? I saw 55mm and 52mm above.
> 
> I'm assuming the 55mm is correct but would like to know for sure. Superboost chainline is 56mm so I'm thinking a Superboost crank paired with this combo would work well.
> 
> Thanks.


The Paul website says 55mm. I'd trust they know what they're doing.


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## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

You know, I must have looked at the site half a dozen times and never saw chainline on there. Just looked and now I feel like a dumbass. 

I guess I do wonder if different freewheels provide different chainlines though...


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## planetx88 (Mar 24, 2012)

anyone have time on the i9 hydra boost ss hub?


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## bit_lizard (Aug 10, 2005)

planetx88 said:


> anyone have time on the i9 hydra boost ss hub?


I have about 4 mouth on mine, seems like it has a lot of drag and the noise is killing me...besides that it's a nice hub...


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## planetx88 (Mar 24, 2012)

bit_lizard said:


> I have about 4 mouth on mine, seems like it has a lot of drag and the noise is killing me...besides that it's a nice hub...


You dry the dumonde tech freehub grease? that will quiet it down relative to freehub oil. Drag I am curious about, how does the seal between hubshell and freehub look? I currently have a set of hydras on an enduro bike, and love them. my current P321 is hurting and I might use it as an excuse to go ss specific.

What bike you have it on?


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## bit_lizard (Aug 10, 2005)

planetx88 said:


> You dry the dumonde tech freehub grease? that will quiet it down relative to freehub oil. Drag I am curious about, how does the seal between hubshell and freehub look? I currently have a set of hydras on an enduro bike, and love them. my current P321 is hurting and I might use it as an excuse to go ss specific.
> 
> What bike you have it on?


I haven't tried the grease but definitely will, also will check the seal. I have about 300 miles on it and thought it would loosen up some but it hasn't. Just for comparison if I spin it by hand with no chain and hold the cog it will spin about 22 seconds and my Pro4 will spin about 52 seconds...
I have it on a Chameleon...

edit; just watched the video on the I Nine site between the sound difference of the oil and grease, what a difference. I will order the grease today...thanks


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## Krapper2 (Sep 11, 2020)

I have the Paul boost disc word with the White Industries free wheel. Chain line is 55 mm as stated by Paul.

I was able to accommodate this with on an aluminum Santa Cruz Chameleon by flipping the direct mount chain ring and moving a 2.5 mm spacer on the BB from the drive side to the non-drive side. 

The DM chain ring has a 51 mm chain line. Flipping the ring moves the chain line to 57.5 mm, and then moving the spacer moves it back to 55 mm. 

Risk is the drive side crank arm may interfere with the chain stay. In this case I have about 2.5 mm clearance minimum between the crank arm and the chain stay. It's at the mid point of the crank and where the yoke meets the chain stay tube. Hasn't rubbed in about 6 months of riding.

I like the hub. It's light and the flanges are very wide. I haven't had issues with the WI free wheel. It is a bit ovalized. Its the first freewheel bike I have run. It really doesn't make sense compared to a hope or other brand ss or HG free hub. Luckily RF introduced the steel chain rings, so I was able to purchase a second chain ring for $20. Now I have 30, 28, and 26 (from the fat bike) tooth chain rings with a 16 tooth freewheel. Gives me a lot of range. Also If I want to go to 32 I can by swapping to another set of cranks I have. Changing the cranks or chain ring is pretty quick. About as much effort as changing the lock ring for the cassette.


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## KgB (Jan 13, 2004)

Onyx makes all sizes, the instant engagement and ceramic bearings and totally silent coasting makes this the best upgrade I have ever done on any bike.
And for the win they will engrave anything you want, ano or powder coat 
onyxrp.com









Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## sayzawn (Jul 15, 2011)

Oh that's nice. Looks like I9 stopped producing their 148 SS hubs, I guess I'll have to go Onyx now. I'm actually building up a Nimble 9, did Onyx add that graphic or did you?


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## KgB (Jan 13, 2004)

ccs1676 said:


> Oh that's nice. Looks like I9 stopped producing their 148 SS hubs, I guess I'll have to go Onyx now. I'm actually building up a Nimble 9, did Onyx add that graphic or did you?


Onyx will do logos if you have permission, on the powder coat hubs they remove material so it's a nice polished aluminum, on the annodized they lazer etch over the top. Great to have a silent hub on a SS, Zen like

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## maynard4130 (May 12, 2019)

Krapper2 said:


> I have the Paul boost disc word with the White Industries free wheel. Chain line is 55 mm as stated by Paul.
> 
> I was able to accommodate this with on an aluminum Santa Cruz Chameleon by flipping the direct mount chain ring and moving a 2.5 mm spacer on the BB from the drive side to the non-drive side.
> 
> ...


Great choice IMO. I have a fondness for Paul components.
I have a Paul Word hub and W.I. trials freewheel (72 poe) on my Karate monkey. Absolute bombproof setup for 8 years running. My newest bike has boost spacing, and I really wanted the same setup but pulled the trigger on Hope pro 4 w/spacers mainly I didn't like the chainline math and having to move the crank spacer.
Time will tell if it's as reliable.


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