# Hub bearing replacement, go with ceramic?



## ghoti (Mar 23, 2011)

Need to replace my rear wheel hub bearings again. It's a 6903 LBLU cage separated bearing. Maybe I should go with a ABI Enduro-MAX as it's cageless and should have more bearings and hopefully withstand more force? 

I'm getting 3 months out of these before they are shot. Grindy and too much lateral play so I need something better.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Max bearings are not intended for wheel bearings. They are specifically designed for pivot bearing applications. 

If your interest is Enduro bearings, and you're thinkin' cageless is what you want, then you should be considering the ABEC 5 bearings

Specifically what is the cause of your failures? Contamination? Water? 

Are you servicing these? Did you perform the last bearing replacement?


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## ghoti (Mar 23, 2011)

I am servicing them. As for what's wearing them out I really don't know. They were adequately greased and didn't see much contamination except for a bunch of metal flakes. Maybe I'm just too hard on the bike?


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## Schulze (Feb 21, 2007)

Interested in the details.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

As C2L said, full compliment /maxx bearings are intended for small movement, loaded applications, i.e. most suspension pivots, you want raced bearings for things that spin.

Where di you get that your wheel uses this bearing, is this what you found when you first serviced them new or someone told you that? Ask as they use 2 different types of seals with two different colours, and someone may have assumed they were this type of bearing, when in fact they maybe should be Angular contact bearings, which also use 2 different colour seals to let you know which side is which and which require a specific pre-load, any more will cause them to fail prematurely.

As to ceramic vs SS? I tried ceramics in my BB once, the didn't last any better than SS ones, but cost over 3 times the price, now just use SS.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

+1 ceramic aren't worth the money
+1 Abec 5 bearings and/or angular contact. That should solve your problem.


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## ghoti (Mar 23, 2011)

LyNx said:


> As C2L said, full compliment /maxx bearings are intended for small movement, loaded applications, i.e. most suspension pivots, you want raced bearings for things that spin.
> 
> Where di you get that your wheel uses this bearing, is this what you found when you first serviced them new or someone told you that? Ask as they use 2 different types of seals with two different colours, and someone may have assumed they were this type of bearing, when in fact they maybe should be Angular contact bearings, which also use 2 different colour seals to let you know which side is which and which require a specific pre-load, any more will cause them to fail prematurely.
> 
> As to ceramic vs SS? I tried ceramics in my BB once, the didn't last any better than SS ones, but cost over 3 times the price, now just use SS.


Mech at bike store said they have two Enduro max 6903 bearings and it should work. Said they were better than the regular Enduro bearing. They also have ABI Enduro 6903 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GSMM5G/ so will that work?

Last time we replaced the bearings with XERO 6903-LBLU which is what they originally came with. Orange seal one side and black on the other. Orange was on the outside but I probably did not set the proper preload which is why they failed this time after 3 months.

I may just buy the ABI Enduro 6903 bearings for $20 if it will work so I can get in a weekend ride.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

ghoti said:


> Mech at bike store said they have two Enduro max 6903 bearings and it should work. Said they were better than the regular Enduro bearing.
> 
> t I probably did not set the proper preload which is why they failed this time after 3 months.


Your mechanic is wrong in trying to sell you MAX bearings for a hub application. They're not for hubs. That's easily confirmed by taking a look at the Enduro web site.

What hubs do you have that requires a bearing pre-load for these bearings?

Ensure that you apply an appropriate amount of grease on the end caps that protect the bearings from external contaminates. I suspect that's your problem.


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## ghoti (Mar 23, 2011)

Here's a pic of the axle. I don't know if that inner black nut should be tightened to a certain specification. I just cinched it down with a crescent wrench but perhaps that was too tight and caused premature failure? 
View attachment 1135781


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Yeah, um, going to guess that's your problem. All you need to do is tighten that down just snug until there's no play, then tighten down the end cap while using a wrench to keep the pre-load nut from tightening down further (just like if it were a cup n cone setup) that's why it and the end cap have wrench flats 



ghoti said:


> Here's a pic of the axle. I don't know if that inner black nut should be tightened to a certain specification. *I just cinched it down with a crescent wrench *but perhaps that was too tight and caused premature failure?
> View attachment 1135781


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I think you need to perform some service on that poor freehub. That's in bad need of some TLC.


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## ghoti (Mar 23, 2011)

Yeah my buddy changed the cassette and thought it would be a good idea to put grease on the freehub. Just acts as a good dirt magnet tho.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

What type of grease was put on there?


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## LarryFahn (Jul 19, 2005)

What hub is this?


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## ghoti (Mar 23, 2011)

Cleared2land said:


> What type of grease was put on there?


Mobil or Valvoline synthetic grease. Probably not ideal to use and perhaps bit thick but it's all I had on hand.



LarryFahn said:


> What hub is this?


No idea. Some cheapo oem wheelset.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Way, WAY too thick! Not even close to what should be in your freehub! Freehub grease is very thin, but many prefer freehub oil which very light oil.

My suggestion is to learn some standard practices and how to properly maintain your ride.


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## ghoti (Mar 23, 2011)

Cleared2land said:


> Way, WAY too thick! Not even close to what should be in your freehub! Freehub grease is very thin, but many prefer freehub oil which very light oil.
> 
> My suggestion is to learn some standard practices and how to properly maintain your ride.


That grease was only put on the pawls to quiet them down, not packed into the freehub body itself. Sure the thicker grease might inhibit the pawl engagement a bit but it also quieted it down so it doesn't sound like a swarm of angry bees.


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