# Nashbar Single Speed 29er Mountain Bike



## rob1208lv (Sep 8, 2007)

Just wanted to know if anyone has had any experiences on one of these Bikes? 
I couldn't find any reviews... 

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/ProductDisplay?storeId=10053&langId=-1&catalogId=10052&productId=502354&cm_mmc=$%28referrer%29$-_-Bicycles-_-Nashbar-_-NB-SSMBD-19&CSE=GooglePS&mr:trackingCode=80CBFC0F-F9E1-DE11-974B-0019B9C043EB&mr:referralID=NA

Thanks


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## chrispanosc (Dec 4, 2009)

nice bike for the money, but heavy. I bought one of the old style (with clincher brakes instead of the disc) as a backup bike to ride after I got hit by a truck on my gary fisher rig.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

Good bike for the $ my friend rides one I like it. If I wasnt building a SS out of a never used Nashbar frame I had I would have got the new one with discs..... Buy it and you will have fun with it!


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## nuck_chorris (Jun 6, 2008)

i looked at it a while ago and it has changed , my only fear is aluminum........ and Orca whales


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## ctaggart (Jul 1, 2009)

I have one and I love it. The aluminum is however, quite rigid. I swapped out some parts and it's very light now by my standards.


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

Love mine since I bought it and it's been amazing, and also gone through lots of changes










It is the same as. 2008 se stout 29er


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

O here's a good thread or two

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=540066

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=6721795


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

after alot of BS I am buying one. Will let you know how the new 2010 model is in about a week.....


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

Should be the same as these if it's the aluminum one


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## robbyracer (Apr 9, 2009)

They have the frames on sale for $99 right now. I was thinking of getting one and just stashing it until I'm ready to build a 29er. I don't mind the aluminum so much.

ooops....
Make that Performance has the frames on sale right now.
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1062473_-1_1512507_20000_400314


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## Ash Andi (Jan 28, 2010)

ctaggart said:


> I have one and I love it. The aluminum is however, quite rigid. I swapped out some parts and it's very light now by my standards.


Open cam skewers without any chain tug on the drive side on track ends? :eekster: Also your front brake cable/housing looks a bit long.


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## nuck_chorris (Jun 6, 2008)

robbyracer said:


> They have the frames on sale for $99 right now. I was thinking of getting one and just stashing it until I'm ready to build a 29er. I don't mind the aluminum so much.
> 
> ooops....
> Make that Performance has the frames on sale right now.
> http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1062473_-1_1512507_20000_400314


that frame has been on sale for quite a while, beginning to think its just the regular price:skep:


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

Seems to be the Nasbar way, everything is "on sale" for that same price for a long time. I just put a order in for the 29r. on sale for $399.99 org $599.99 well its been $399.99 for a year!


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## nuck_chorris (Jun 6, 2008)

PoorBob said:


> Seems to be the Nasbar way, everything is "on sale" for that same price for a long time. I just put a order in for the 29r. on sale for $399.99 org $599.99 well its been $399.99 for a year!


not really, its on sale for a bit then it changes. the access frame has been on sale for a lot longer


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

On sale now for $349.00

Crap I just picke it up last week for $399.00

Thats $50 for upgrades......


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## HalFliP (Mar 15, 2009)

Does it come with a Rear D Hanger...? Are the stock hubs able to accept a 9 speed cassette like the Stout...?...? If so, I am gonna get one tomorrow.......


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

It's the same exactthing as an 08 stout. Yes they can take a cassette and I think the latest ones on nashbar come with discs which I suppose is an upgrade from when I bought mine


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## HalFliP (Mar 15, 2009)

Going to call tomorrow and ask Nashbar to verify. Want to be sure. Not sure how I will dig the single speed thing and that is the reason I am probably not buying a 2010 Rockhopper SL SS(Brand new, I already saw/rode it) from this guy on Craigslist...he is selling for $500. It is a single speed for life...awesome bike and I am a Specialized guy. Just don't like the feeling of not having the option if I so choose.

If they say it is 9spd compatibile I will orbably order one tomorrow....it is $350 and they are having an extra 15% of today and tomorrow. $336 to the front door. Been over and over this , the RHopper, and all the deals on Jenson and BDirect....ready to make a move on something. 

Any advice...?


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## Ash Andi (Jan 28, 2010)

Dawes Dead Eye. Cheaper and steel (Cro-Mo) frame/fork.


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## HalFliP (Mar 15, 2009)

Dawes was my first choice. Not so much anymore. Not too confident in it with all the ?'s about allignment problems and such. Nice bike but for $16 more dollars....probably get the Nashbar and strip the paint if its hideous.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

My Nashbar just came in, 25min and i was on the road. It has mounts for changing it to a multi speed. The bike works great, disc breaks work with no issues (unlike the deadeye). Now i need to get into shape!


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

HalFliP said:


> Dawes was my first choice. Not so much anymore. Not too confident in it with all the ?'s about allignment problems and such. Nice bike but for $16 more dollars....probably get the Nashbar and strip the paint if its hideous.


the paint wasn't hideous at all but when the person you rise with has the exact same bike minus a few mods, you kinda want something different


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## HalFliP (Mar 15, 2009)

Opted out for the 2010 Rockhopper I was looking at. Better choice in the long run....$500. Can't beat it...the guy wants out of it. Either way...it will be a great second bike...! Pics later tonite....leaving in 15 min to go grab it.:thumbsup:


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

No offense Man but I can't see where a rockhopper is a better choice in the long run. I am not just saying this because I have this bike. Everything on a rochopper is entry level, right on par with this bike. This is a 2008 se racing stout frame painted a weird color. So what makes it better? The name?
I see u have a pitch so that would make sense. Also good luck on ur first 29er I went from 26 ht to 26 Fs to 29er rigid and never road the others again

Just sayin


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

got to spend the money on what will make you happy.


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## HalFliP (Mar 15, 2009)

> No offense Man but I can't see where a rockhopper is a better choice in the long run. I am not just saying this because I have this bike. Everything on a rochopper is entry level, right on par with this bike. This is a 2008 se racing stout frame painted a weird color. So what makes it better? The name?
> I see u have a pitch so that would make sense. Also good luck on ur first 29er I went from 26 ht to 26 Fs to 29er rigid and never road the others again
> 
> Just sayin


...No offense taken, no offense intended. My comment as to "a better choice in the long run" has only to do with me....not anything to do with the quality or value of Nash9er. Yes, I like what Specialized does and I do ride a PitchPro as my main bike....but I was, considering the Nash, as well as, The Stout, Dawes, Cliff, etc, etc., so, the "name" has nothing to do with it.

I looked at this(never seen dirt) 2010 RHopper SL SS about 2 weeks ago off Craigslist. Listed at $900 and the guy told me his price was $700. I passed after deciding that I was unsure of 1) 29ers in general and 2)Single speed only, as this frame is a single speed frame only. So, I started looking at the aforementioned bikes because of the pricepoint and 9 spd. compatiblity. After much research and thought, I was ready to drop the hammer today on the Nash since it was selling for $279 today.

Knowing myself, I already had about spent in my head an additional $100 or so for hydro discs, $75 on clipless, and figured in the cost of a 9 spd drivetrain, in case. By the time it would have been said and done, I would have easily dropped the $500 I spent on the RHopper today upgrading . End of story.

Bearings, headsets, hubs, and the important pieces are not cheap. I have read about misalligned disc mounts, chipping paint, out of round rims, out of dish rims, banged up chainrings, leaking forks, cracked frames.....you name it, when it comes to the bargain stuff. Nashbar may or may not be good about warranties or customer service. I don't know and I guess I won't find out.

I coulda spent $318 to have the Nash shipped to my door. This would be a bike I had only read good or bad or "whatever" about, never having had the chance to see in person, stand over, let alone ride it....then spent $xxx.xx upgrading said bike...ie: hydros discs, 9 spd, etc, etc.and hope that Nash will stand behind their merch. in the event of a problem.

It boils down to this. I realized that, I found a great deal on a good quality SS that can't be geared later. I like the tech built into the Eccentric BB to tension the chain and the warranty that I KNOW Specialized WILL stand behind. If something happens to that frame , it will take a 15 min phonecall by my SpecDealer to have a replacement on the way to me. I have seen it happen( with 6 yr old frames) with my own eyes.

People knock big companies for being too commercial. People knock "NoName" stuff for being cheap or unreliable. I was not knocking the Nash, I almost bought it. Hopefully, you made the right decision for you. "In the long run", I know I did. For $500, the Hopper will stay in my stable as a SS and just be another choice for me when I go for a ride.

To each their own, right PoorBob...?


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

Sounds good u picked the right one. Post some pics in the spec forum


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## HalFliP (Mar 15, 2009)

I actually tried.....no luck for some reason. I will get one up. BTW, Had I gotten the Nash, it would have ended up raw like yours...always loved that look. May still grab one for my wife if they go on 20% again.

Happy Trails.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

To each their own, very true. Best of luck to your purchase. 

No quit hijacking the dang Nashbar thread lol......



Im starting the Nashbar Rebel Bicycle club.....


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## DirtyJ (Oct 23, 2007)

I just pulled the trigger on one myself with the extra 20% off it was $280- that's a steal! can't wait to get it, be my first 29er and SS. 
I chose to go SS after riding a friends Specialized 29er Rockhopper SS- he got it cheap too off Craigslist $550- it's nice and light, I like it a lot. Hope this Nash is close in quality to it.


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

Good deal J. My cousin got same deal last year before they offered the discs. Then again I don't know how good those discs are anyway


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

The discs seem to be good, granted it took me a while to get the front adjusted but again thats the one I had to put on. The rear disc right out of the box was perfect.


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

Nice, my bike as u see it above with paint stripped ishiw I built it up, the only thing stock is spokes, rims and headset. Oh yeah the rear brake cable, that's stock lol


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## CTB_BikerDude (May 16, 2010)

Been reading your posts and decided to do it too at the $280 price. Never caught it if you said . . . how did the 15" fit as far as standover, reach and seatpost length with stock seatpost? I am 5'8" with ~29" inseam and hoping that the 15" will fit me. My first 29er and SS and am looking forward to my first ride.


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

The 15" fits awesome, it is just right except the stock seatpost is wicked short. I had to get a 350mm long one I think and my cousin has a 400mm on his


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

Hmmm 5'8'' and a 15", well I dont have much knowledge with that but im 5'10'' and the 17" seems to be just right on the stand over height.


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

I am 5'9" bob with a 15 and i went with reach measurement not standover...


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

You guys that are paying $280 can eat my bottom bracket.... I just paid $399 two weeks ago, I did call Nashbar and the gave me $50 off which is the current list price. As for the %20 off well Im just going to have to live with that....


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## DirtyJ (Oct 23, 2007)

PoorBob said:


> You guys that are paying $280 can eat my bottom bracket.... I just paid $399 two weeks ago, I did call Nashbar and the gave me $50 off which is the current list price. As for the %20 off well Im just going to have to live with that....


don't be mad, be glad that others are able to ride such a great bike.:thumbsup:

on size- I'm around 5'9" and my friends Rockhopper is a 19", so I got a 19" for the Nash. My 26" FS bike has a 18" frame and I like the stretched out feeling of the 19" Rockhopper 29er. I'd rather have more room then be cramped. To each his/her own though.


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

19" is huge man, it will deffinately make for an interesting ride.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

How are the biks guys?

Work has kept me away from my nash way too much lately, but I still like it. Just got a set of Salsa Skews for it and looking to change out the chain ring, its a bit too low for me putting around town.


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

PoorBob said:


> How are the biks guys?
> 
> Work has kept me away from my nash way too much lately, but I still like it. Just got a set of Salsa Skews for it and looking to change out the chain ring, its a bit too low for me putting around town.


lucky you I had to re-lace my heels just to have a quickrelease front


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

How are the Nashbar 29rs going for everybody.

i have put some miles on my bike so far this summer and love it! Great bike so far for the price. I doubt Ill do anything to it this summer since i just want to ride, but i plan to upgrade over winter.


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## markaitch (Feb 17, 2010)

*25% discount*

you guys want to really s**t?
heres a 25% off code for nashbar, good for a couple more days i think:
FRAMILY
has a few restrictions but it does work on the ss 29er (other bikes & stuff too)
$262.50 + s&h...such a deal


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

Yes I am going to S*@T I paid $399


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

markaitch said:


> you guys want to really s**t?
> heres a 25% off code for nashbar, good for a couple more days i think:
> FRAMILY
> has a few restrictions but it does work on the ss 29er (other bikes & stuff too)
> $262.50 + s&h...such a deal


You da man!!! :thumbsup:

FYI, this works on the Nashbar GT Peace SS 29er also... advertised at $549, this code goves an additional $137 off, so the bike is yours at $412.49 - not bad.

Which one to get? At these prices, I can't not get one.

PS to say, I'm leaning towards the Nashbar - the GT doesn't seem to get you much higher spec'ed parts over the Nashbar no-name model. And at $262, I can upgrade some stuff right way - probably the brakes.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

Anyone have any tips on size or standover height on the Nashbar? I am 6'2", 34" inseam - so 19" or 21"?


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## ISuckAtRiding (Jul 7, 2006)

PoisonDartFrog said:


> Anyone have any tips on size or standover height on the Nashbar? I am 6'2", 34" inseam - so 19" or 21"?


I cant speak for the nashbar, but i'm 6'1" with a 34" inseam, and i've broken 3 different large (19-20") frames, all at the seat tube/top tube weld, and yes, i had enough post in the frame. I have an xl (21") frame i picked up to try out and it fits me MUCH better overall than the large ever did. Less post sticking out, so less stress on the frame in that area.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

ISuckAtRiding said:


> I cant speak for the nashbar, but i'm 6'1" with a 34" inseam, and i've broken 3 different large (19-20") frames, all at the seat tube/top tube weld, and yes, i had enough post in the frame. I have an xl (21") frame i picked up to try out and it fits me MUCH better overall than the large ever did. Less post sticking out, so less stress on the frame in that area.


Yeah, I hear ya - I have an old 18" 26er HT that's a bit too small for me, so I was thinking the 19" might not be enough. Thanks for the input.

PS - ordered mine today - $326.36 with sales tax and shipping. Went with the 21"


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## schneidie (Aug 30, 2008)

I'm 5'9 and usually ride a medium frame. Would the 17 inch be the right pick for me?


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## johnnymowmow (Jul 15, 2010)

I bought mine tonight at 11:30 pm (the code FRAMILY expired at midnight). I was going to wait for the next discount but I couldn't pass up 25% off. Hopefully, it will be worth the money.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

I bought one earlier this week - FedEx tells me it should be delivered today.


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## johnnymowmow (Jul 15, 2010)

Did you get 2-day delivery? Or was basic that fast?


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

I selected Standard Shipping, 7-10days - charged me $38.99 for oversized delivery.

It might take longer by a day or so if you don't live near a major metro/distribution hub. I live in the Dallas area, so things generally arrive pretty quickly:


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## schneidie (Aug 30, 2008)

Ordered mine tuesday around 10 PM Eastern, and mine is coming on friday.


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## johnnymowmow (Jul 15, 2010)

PoorBob said:


> Im starting the Nashbar Rebel Bicycle club.....


It looks like several people on MTBR are buying this bike - so we could start one.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

BTW the Nashbar SS is also being discussed in the 29er forum:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=634855

I want to get a custom decal for the frame: "El Cheapo" (or maybe "El Borracho"...)


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## johnnymowmow (Jul 15, 2010)

I was looking up decals too. I found NASA stickers and rock band stickers on eBay... but I think I am going to strip the paint like ricot83 and go with a DeLorean look... maybe get a DMC sticker.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

Glad to see we got a few more "Team Nashbar" members!


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

Mine arrived yesterday - unboxed it and put it on the stand for assembly - an awesome deal at $262...

Plus, the frame color is a lot more gold than it appears in the pics on here and the Nashbar site. On my PC screen they look tan.

PS: Plan on buying new grips and pedals right away. Also, the seat collar on mine is metal. I think someone else posted that theirs was plastic and broke. I'll probably go tubeless as soon as possible, too.


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## johnnymowmow (Jul 15, 2010)

I received mine today. It took me a while to put it together (my first build). At one point I realized that I had the fork backward and the handle bar upside down. 

I was worried about the tires because they were all wrinkled and wobbled when I turned the wheel - but filling the tires with air fixed that...

Anyway, it has a very nice ride. I rode around my neighborhood and rode through some yards . The SS will take some getting used to but I felt that it was a good compromise to handle various terrain. My calves were burning when I went up a hill... but I am sure that will go away as I get use to it.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

The Tektro IO brakes are little tricky to get adjusted nicely - much more so than hydraulics. Be sure to read and understand the directions for installing and adjusting. Even now that I am fairly happy with their adjustment, the rear still rubs ever so slightly at one point in the revolution, and they definitely lack the stopping power of the Avid Juicy 5's on my 26er. 

I hoping that this improves as the disc and pads break in. If not, I may opt for BB7s. Time will tell.


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## markaitch (Feb 17, 2010)

did you true your wheels before installing?
if it is just 1 spot rubbing, the wheel is a likely culprit rather than brake adjustment.

just got my se stout (a cuzin to your nashbars) & after building it that is my 1 complaint - the wheels & spokes came in awful shape, took a fair amount of work to get them close to straight & true & i will still prolly have to get a pro onto it soon. thats a downside to a mail-order bike.

btw... my bike was $275.95 to the door! nyah...nayh...nyah!


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## fightnut (Jul 5, 2007)

markaitch said:


> just got my se stout ....my bike was $275.95 to the door!


On one hand I was bummed that I missed that deal before it expired, on the other hand, that gold color is horrendous, and I would have had to factor in $ to have it repainted (or do it myself) anyway.

Of all the color options in the world.......what where they thinking?!

But color aside, that's definitely a hard deal to beat! :thumbsup:


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

markaitch said:


> did you true your wheels before installing?
> if it is just 1 spot rubbing, the wheel is a likely culprit rather than brake adjustment.


That's true for clinchers, but not for discs.

Wait a sec - are you saying that your Stout didn't come with discs??

In any case, my wheels came out of the box true. We'll see if they stay that way.


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## johnnymowmow (Jul 15, 2010)

Mine were true too... well worth the increase in cost over the stout.

I am loving the bike - SS and all. My only complaint is that my butt hurts. I need a granny seat or something...

Also, does anyone know the gear ratio for the Nashbar 29er? How can I tell? I have been reading that 2:1 is a good ratio. All I could find on Nashbar's site was 32 teeth to 18 teeth - is that the ratio? If so, should I change the ratio?

Sorry to ask a dumb q.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

johnnymowmow said:


> Mine were true too... well worth the increase in cost over the stout.
> 
> I am loving the bike - SS and all. My only complaint is that my butt hurts. I need a granny seat or something...


No you don't you just need to ride more. Nothing is going to keep you from being saddle sore other than just getting used to it. A big sofa saddle will prolong the situation, and it makes it hard to move around on the bike because it's so big. Suck it up - it only lasts a few days or so.



johnnymowmow said:


> Also, does anyone know the gear ratio for the Nashbar 29er? How can I tell? I have been reading that 2:1 is a good ratio. All I could find on Nashbar's site was 32 teeth to 18 teeth - is that the ratio? If so, should I change the ratio?


32/18 is almost exactly 2:1 already. I'd ride it like it is unless you are in a very hilly area, then MAYBE consider 20T on the rear. Given how new you are, I'd ride it like it is for a while until you figure out what you need. Don't go easter-egging and changing stuff for no reason.

MY FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Gave mine it's first shake-down ride today on a 4-mile out and back gravel hike/bike trail near my house. Rear brake still isn't all I'd like it to be, but my front is dialled in nicely. 21" frame fits me well; I am in the 6'3" range.

Going to get some Ergon grips today from REI - the stock ones SUCK. I am not too fond of the lucite bash ring either, but that can wait - it's just a cosmetic gripe. Not too sure about the tires so far either - I took some tight turns at speed and the front felt like it was washing out a bit. But, they are brand new, so I'll let them break in first to see if they improve. I was running pretty high pressure too - might need to air them down a bit.

Overall, I like it - a completely different ride than my FS geared 26er, which has an 18" frame (too small for me, I know...) but I can throw it around and rail it like a BMX bike on tight trails.

Tommorow or maybe Tues morning I'll take it out on a local MTB trail and see how I do on it with a little technical stuff.


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## Ash Andi (Jan 28, 2010)

Great. Any photos yet?


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

It looks exactly like the pic on the Nashbar site.

Rode it ~6 miles this morning - semi-technical trail. Took some getting used to, but the brakes seem to be working better and better as they break in, and I found myself actually climbing some twisty technical sessions over rocks and roots a bit easier than on my geared 26er. I was surprised. 

I also intuitively caught myself braking less to maintain momentum. I think I am getting a glimpse into what people mean about 29ers and how SS makes you a better rider. 

I do miss my suspension fork in places tho, but not enough to be discouraging.


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## johnnymowmow (Jul 15, 2010)

I'll post pics tonight after work. 

- Thanks for the info and advice PoisonDartFrog!


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## kmbgolf (Dec 6, 2009)

looking for any coupon codes to get the price down right now it would be like 424


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

PoisonDartFrog said:


> No you don't you just need to ride more. Nothing is going to keep you from being saddle sore other than just getting used to it. A big sofa saddle will prolong the situation, and it makes it hard to move around on the bike because it's so big. Suck it up - it only lasts a few days or so.
> 
> 32/18 is almost exactly 2:1 already. I'd ride it like it is unless you are in a very hilly area, then MAYBE consider 20T on the rear. Given how new you are, I'd ride it like it is for a while until you figure out what you need. Don't go easter-egging and changing stuff for no reason.
> 
> ...


FWIW 32/18 is not 2 to 1. 32/16 is (16x2=32)


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## markaitch (Feb 17, 2010)

mitzikatzi, dude...r u serious?
32/18 may not be exactly 2/1, but it is pretty damn close...
are you such an expert rider that you notice the slight difference?

kmbgolf, you missed nashbars cheapo deal on their ss 29er last week...who knows when it will be back?
can you ride a 15" frame on a 29er? if so, go to jenson & buy the se stout there for $280+s&h
otherwise???
good luck...


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## johnnymowmow (Jul 15, 2010)

I didn't know the images had to be hosted off site... I will post pics in a few days.

kmbgolf - join the email list. Another discount will happen soon. They had a 20% a week or so before the 25% came out. Right now they have a 15% off...

As for ratio - duh... the number of teeth makes sense. I thought that it was more complicated like wheel size and chain length where involved.


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## fightnut (Jul 5, 2007)

kmbgolf said:


> looking for any coupon codes to get the price down right now it would be like 424


Just Google "Nashbar coupon codes" and you can find whatever the current code is.
Right now it's "JULYMAS" for 15% off your online purchase over $50. Good 'til the 24th.


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## kmbgolf (Dec 6, 2009)

im 5'9 maybe 5'10 would it be to small?


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

mitzikatzi said:


> FWIW 32/18 is not 2 to 1. 32/16 is (16x2=32)


I wrote:

"32/18 is >>>almost<<< exactly 2:1 already."

the key word being.... well, you get it.

And FYI, the 2:1 ratio is just a rule-of-thumb. If you consult SB's Gain Ratio calculator, for a 29" wheel, you'd see that 32/18 yields a ratio of 3.7 while 32/16 yields 4.2, assuming 175mm cranks, a 13.51% difference normalized using the 3.7 value as the baseline, for a 12.5% increase in the number of teeth. Or in gear-inches, 51.6 versus 58 respectively; which fails to capture the effects of crank length, of course.:lol:


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

PoisonDartFrog said:


> I wrote:
> 
> "32/18 is >>>almost<<< *exactly* 2:1 already."
> 
> ...


Sorry I see the *almost *bit now.
I am not sure how strong a rider you are but I can tell the difference when climbing. Me I have 32/20 on my 29er.

Nice description of the differences BTW. I guess the best way to know what works for you is "by the seat of the pants feel" Rde both ratios and see for yourself.


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

markaitch said:


> mitzikatzi, dude...r u serious?
> 32/18 may not be exactly 2/1, but it is pretty damn close...
> *are you such an expert rider that you notice the slight difference?*
> 
> ...


No. No where near being an expert but yes I can tell the difference between 16 and 18 teeth on the rear cog. I suspect many other riders can too


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## wyrda (Nov 14, 2009)

Got mine a few days ago... With the coupon code, it's the most bang for your buck bike I've ever heard of.

Took it for its first ride earlier today.
The IO brakes are workable but certainly not very good. They took a while to set up properly and provide decent enough braking performance for now. The jagwire cables on the bike are very nice though. 
The crank is very very nice - stiff and smooth. Not the kind of crank you would expect on such a cheap bike.

Also, check ALL bolts and reinstall the crank before you ride it much. Nashbar did pretty sloppy work putting these bikes together. Many bolts were barely screwed in, the bb cups were loose, and the outer crank bolt on the side was very loose. 
A friend of mine bought this bike as well, and had the same problems,including the wheel set going out of true and developing hop. Hopefully they're just breaking in and after a bit of truing won't get any worse.

Once everything is properly installed, the bike is very nice. The biggest compromise on this bike seems to be the wheel set, otherwise it's a very well thought out ss 29er for the price.


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## markaitch (Feb 17, 2010)

heres a new nashbar 25% off code:
NBARLUV
good til sumtime next week
unfortunately they still have your ss 29er up @ $450


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

Who uses the chain tug/dérailleur thingy that came with the bike, and who just bolts it to the frame?


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## wyrda (Nov 14, 2009)

PoisonDartFrog said:


> Who uses the chain tug/dérailleur thingy that came with the bike, and who just bolts it to the frame?


I haven't used a chain tug before, but this one works surprisingly well. 
I use it, it's a lot easier than adjusting the chain manually.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

wyrda said:


> I haven't used a chain tug before, but this one works surprisingly well.
> I use it, it's a lot easier than adjusting the chain manually.


Yeah, originally I just threw it in my parts drawer, but I put it on today, and thought "huh, that was easier, you dummy"


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## johnnymowmow (Jul 15, 2010)

What are you talking about? I had some extra parts but don't know what you are talking about. Thanks! How do you use it?


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

johnnymowmow said:


> What are you talking about? I had some extra parts but don't know what you are talking about. Thanks! How do you use it?


Its black and looks like a derailleur hanger, with a hole thru the middle and a nut and bolt on the back side.

I had a lot of extra parts too - mostly reflectors and crap like that. I canned them.


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## Tranceman08 (May 28, 2010)

*Nashbar 29er coupon*

If anyone wants to get a good deal use coupon code NBARLUV for 25% off the SS 29er on the Nashbar website. I paid $400 on Craigslist for this bike with upgraded XT hydraulic brakes. I use it for a commuter/ backup trail bike when i have my Trance X1 in pieces for upgrades. It's a decent bike, not too heavy (about 27.5 lbs). Good SS for training and strengthening the legs so you can rip on a geared MTB.


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## NeedsA29er (May 31, 2010)

Any of you guys that are looking for a 29er will like this bike...I am not sure how riding an aluminum version will be but I got the 09 SE Stout and I love it....and if you don't happen to know...the Stout/Nashbar frame is VERY close to the geometry of the EVER POPULAR Redline Monocog frame. So enjoy your new ride...you won't regret it. Just ride it!


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

I took my Nashbar SS 29er bike on vacation and have ridden it 4x on singletrack of varying difficulties in Western Michigan. I really like it and would recommend it to anyone who is looking for a decent, inexpensive SS.

I will be replacing the Tektro IO brakes with Avid BB7s. The Tektros are "okay" at best, and constitute the weakest link component-wise on this bike, in my opinion. I have had a really hard time keeping them adjusted properly, especially the rear brake (the front is much better, for whatever reason). I have to fiddle with it every other ride or so to get the braking I want without having a pad dragging. I have the caliper set inboard as far as it goes, with the inner pad backed almost all the way out, and I still get a small bit of drag on the inner pad. Mostly, I am just getting tired of having to mess with it.


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## johnnymowmow (Jul 15, 2010)

I took mine out on a local trail three times over the weekend. I love it. The only hiccup I had was a flat tire.


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## Ash Andi (Jan 28, 2010)

All this talk and no photos?


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## NeedsA29er (May 31, 2010)

Yeah...that is a good point...the Tek Tro brakes are only ok. any disc set up would be better...



PoisonDartFrog said:


> I took my Nashbar SS 29er bike on vacation and have ridden it 4x on singletrack of varying difficulties in Western Michigan. I really like it and would recommend it to anyone who is looking for a decent, inexpensive SS.
> 
> I will be replacing the Tektro IO brakes with Avid BB7s. The Tektros are "okay" at best, and constitute the weakest link component-wise on this bike, in my opinion. I have had a really hard time keeping them adjusted properly, especially the rear brake (the front is much better, for whatever reason). I have to fiddle with it every other ride or so to get the braking I want without having a pad dragging. I have the caliper set inboard as far as it goes, with the inner pad backed almost all the way out, and I still get a small bit of drag on the inner pad. Mostly, I am just getting tired of having to mess with it.


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## johnnymowmow (Jul 15, 2010)

Pics coming soon.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

What type of headset does this bike use? I can't seem to find that info anywhere.

PS - that is, internal or integrated?


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## markaitch (Feb 17, 2010)

i do not know if it is a fact, but i have often heard that the nashbar ss 29er is actually a debadged '08 alu frame se racing stout.
here is the description of the headset on that bike, taken from specs on se's site:

VP 1-1/8” Threadless,
Semi -Cartridge Sealed,
Press Fit Integrated

good luck!


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

markaitch said:


> i do not know if it is a fact, but i have often heard that the nashbar ss 29er is actually a debadged '08 alu frame se racing stout.
> here is the description of the headset on that bike, taken from specs on se's site:
> 
> VP 1-1/8" Threadless,
> ...


If that is the case, then my guess would be that it is of the semi-integrated/zero-stack variety
http://www.canecreek.com/tech-determining-standards


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## fightnut (Jul 5, 2007)

markaitch said:


> i do not know if it is a fact, but i have often heard that the nashbar ss 29er is actually a debadged '08 alu frame se racing stout.
> !


It also looks just like the Windsor Cliff 29.1 from BD.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

Yep, it sure does... and according to the BD website, it uses a semi-integrated headset:

Cane Creek ZeroStack, V.P. A-42E 1.125" Internal cups, 30mm spacers


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## hellrasore (Aug 13, 2010)

you guys have really peaked my interest in this bike. i come from a lot of bad experience with gears on walmart bikes, so most of my past bikes end up being ss just because i cant stand trying to shift them lol. do you think this frame can stand up to a 350lb guy? i hate being this fat and need to get riding again to hopefully get back to a healthy weight.


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## johnnymowmow (Jul 15, 2010)

hellrasore,

I'm 260 - I was also worried about my weight too but I haven't had any problems with the frame or bike in general. Also, given our size we aren't as likely to be able to do extreme riding. If you stick to trail riding I think the bike will be fine.

You could also call Nashbar and see if they have determined a weight limit. 

I hope you get one and start riding! I haven't lost much weight from riding but I feel much better. Plus SS really kicks your butt.


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## hellrasore (Aug 13, 2010)

the most i will be doing in the begining is a trail going around the lake, its 23 miles and has a lot of hills, but its all maintained so if i have to get off and walk, it will be ok. so in about a week nashbar needs to come out with another 25% cupon and they can drop the price a little bit so i can get one at 300 shipped, i think thats all the wife will let me spend lol!


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

Several months and no issues with my Nashbar.

Brakes gave me some issues, but I have them dialed in now. Granted they are on my over winter upgrade list!

Dumb question, the stock wheel set that comes with bike has a bolt and not a skewer, I wanted to upgrade to skewers but wasnt sure if these hubs would allow that?????


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

PoorBob said:


> Several months and no issues with my Nashbar.
> 
> Brakes gave me some issues, but I have them dialed in now. Granted they are on my over winter upgrade list!
> 
> Dumb question, the stock wheel set that comes with bike has a bolt and not a skewer, I wanted to upgrade to skewers but wasnt sure if these hubs would allow that?????


Hubs are quoted as being "Joytech" on the Nashbar web site, but it doesn't say which model. My hubs dont have any sort of model # markings on them. I'm pretty sure they are 3/8" axles. Beyond that, I would have to defer to someone more knowledgeable.


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## hellrasore (Aug 13, 2010)

how does the single speed work out for hills? i like the idea, and usually stick to one speed while climbing, i just stand up for more power, but its nice to know i can downshit if needed. this bike would be my first real bike purchase and i dont want to regret it.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

Try borrowing or renting one


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## hellrasore (Aug 13, 2010)

i really wish i could, the couple shops by me dont rent bikes and i dont know anyone besides my father in law that rides, still a super-noob lol.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

where r u located< maybe a member is near by


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

I just ordered a set of BB7s with SD7 levers to upgrade the Tektros. $99 for the entire set.


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## iKona40 (Feb 8, 2009)

Where'd you get the deal on the brakes?


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

mtb.unrealcycles.com


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## W7WJ (Jul 30, 2010)

Can someone tell me what the clearance is between the rear dropouts? I want to use a Shimano Alfine IGH and it requires 135mm clearance.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

W7WJ said:


> Can someone tell me what the clearance is between the rear dropouts? I want to use a Shimano Alfine IGH and it requires 135mm clearance.


I don't have a measure for you, but 135mm is pretty standard for rear hubs. What I mean is, I'd be extremely surprised if the stock rear hub isn't 135mm...


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

PoisonDartFrog said:


> I just ordered a set of BB7s with SD7 levers to upgrade the Tektros. $99 for the entire set.


Update. Got my new BB7s and SD7 levers installed on the Nashbar 29er. Something that mighht help you folks still on the Tektro IOs...

after removing the Tektros I noticed some excess paint on the frame mounting points. Used a Dremel with a sanding wheel to smooth off the excess. A nice benefit of an Alu frame... No rust worries.

The BB7 calipers with mounting adapters were still too far outboard to adjust the pads according to the mounting instructions, so I used 6mm flat washers to shim in the calipers by placing them between the frame and the mounting adapters. It made a world of difference. The brakes set up and adjusted easily, exactly like the instructions specified, and with no rubbing.

I wanted to share this because it occurred to me that a set of shims might make a big difference with how the stock tektros line up and adjust too. Best part... It only costs 40 cents and a tripmto the hardware store to find out.


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## HeyitsDave (Jul 20, 2009)

I just got mine on Saturday. Turns out I don't need gears or suspension.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

Dave, 

keep us posted on your new Nasbar. I think most of us here have been pleased with the purchase. 

By the way what did you pay for yours?


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## HeyitsDave (Jul 20, 2009)

390 to my door. Couldn't be happier. Changed the pedals to some bear traps, bar tape over the original grips and added a bottle cage, presta tubes,computer and hr monitor.I did my 17 mile training ride on it yesterday and am a changed man. I hate the color. Thinking John Deere green fizz can after I cut the rim brake bosses off.


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## Deltakus (Sep 3, 2009)

Mine cam in the mail the other day. Put it together and put some SPD pedals and when for a ride. I have put 28 mils on it so far. I an it's a great bike. the breaks aren't the best, but they are seated and work. The color is not what I expected, a goldish green. 

I have already had one flat. Need to figure out how to put skewer on the hubs.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

Yeah the color is a bit off-putting. But, I don't dislike it enough to strip the bike down and paint it. I'll get a different bike first. But, mine is gold. I don't notice any green tint to it.

To use skewers, you will need to change the axles. Given the cheap Joytech hubs, you might as well just change the whole hub at that point. And if you change the hub, you might as well just replace the whole wheel... Which i will do soon in any case.

That's one thing I don't get about ss bikes. Why not use a qr, at least on the front? And why not the back too, if you have a tug, which this one does.


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## HeyitsDave (Jul 20, 2009)

*Hunter Green Fizz Can*

Lopped off the shifter cable and the rim brake bosses.:thumbsup:


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## bryan_d (Mar 16, 2009)

HeyitsDave said:


> Lopped off the shifter cable and the rim brake bosses.:thumbsup:


Looks great!

Got any tips? Hack-saw, dremel, or air tools? Final with file, dremel, or grinding wheel? Going to be doing this to my buddies SE Stout very soon.

Thanks,

Bryan d


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## HeyitsDave (Jul 20, 2009)

Hey thanks. I'm really happy with the results. I told myself I would not use any filler or anything crazy like that so I made it real simple.
I removed the majority of each part to nearly flush with the tube by using an aluminum cutting bit in a straight air die grinder. Feathered each one flush with a 3" sanding disc 80 grit in a 90 degree die grinder.
Sprayed the sanded areas with some flat black I had laying around and hand sanded with some 220 on the black areas then red scotch pad the entire frame.


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## xrockketx (Apr 19, 2010)

bryan_d said:


> Looks great!
> 
> Got any tips? Hack-saw, dremel, or air tools? Final with file, dremel, or grinding wheel? Going to be doing this to my buddies SE Stout very soon.
> 
> ...


Would like to see the finished product on that project myself. I cut off the brake post pretty close to the boss and put a black plug in it. It looks cool for a temporary job. But I would like to clean it up someday.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

Nice to see some mods coming for the Nashbar.
Another month around town and no issues, he brakes seems to be working great now that they are broken in. I still plan to upgrade brakes and wheels this winter.

*Team Nashbar*


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## HeyitsDave (Jul 20, 2009)

I really enjoy riding this bike, I've got 150 miles on it, atm. It handles real nice and for me it has a perfect fit. I have been spending way too much time daydreaming about this 29er ss.


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## HeyitsDave (Jul 20, 2009)

Which wheelset would you upgrade to? I have a set of Easton XC 2 on my 26 that I am happy with and there is a 29er version, but I am thinking on the rear I would want/need to retain the solid axle? Does anyone have any thoughts on which wheelset could be converted to solid axle and that don't weigh as much as my whole roadbike?


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

HeyitsDave said:


> Which wheelset would you upgrade to? I have a set of Easton XC 2 on my 26 that I am happy with and there is a 29er version, but I am thinking on the rear I would want/need to retain the solid axle? Does anyone have any thoughts on which wheelset could be converted to solid axle and that don't weigh as much as my whole roadbike?


I would suggest just changing hubs like I did but then again it depends on your abilities to lace your own wheels or how much money you have to spend. The rims are pretty strong and I haven't had any trouble stock or since putting on the dmr revolver hubs


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

Digging my $262 NAshbar SS29er. Upgrades so far:

Clipless pedals
ESI Chunky grips
Truvative XR riser bar and seatpost 
WTB Pure saddle
Avid BB7 brakes and SD7 levers

Next up: WTB Weirwolf 29x2.55 tires (although I may just run the Weirwolf up fron and leave the Nano 2.1 in the rear)


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

Frog, 

We are going to need to see some pics!

Bob


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

Will do, but it will be later in the week. I just got a lead on a set of new WTB Laserdisc Trail 29 wheels that came off of a Motobecane Fantom Pro 29er for $75.

I am going to set them up with the Weirwolfs and ghetto tubeless. Will post a pic after that.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

PoisonDartFrog said:


> Will do, but it will be later in the week. I just got a lead on a set of new WTB Laserdisc Trail 29 wheels that came off of a Motobecane Fantom Pro 29er for $75.
> 
> I am going to set them up with the Weirwolfs and ghetto tubeless. Will post a pic after that.


Got the Weirwolf mounted up to the new wheel on the front with a new skewer. Man, that's a big tire. Waiting on my singlespeed spacer kit before I can mount up the new rear wheel. It should be here next week, and I'll post some pics.

Should I run the big a$$ Weirwolfs both front and back, or leave the 2.1 Nano on the back and just run the WW up front? I know it's common to run asymmetrical tires on SS these days, but it just looks weird to me. Opinons?


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

I have this setup ww front and maxxis ignitor rear and it works awesome. The frame wont clear a mounted weierwolf in the the rear so don't bother, unless of course u run the wheel at the back of the slider, then it might just clear. My setup is also tubeless and it is awesome with low pressure. I have inadvertently run my tires at like 10 and 15 psi before and never broke a bead but have never purposely or knowingly run that pressure before, though those low psi rides were awesome. 

The nano, depending on your terrain, isn't the greatest tire around so u might want to get rid of it. 

Unfortunately though I may be bidding farewell to my nashbar/ se stout. I bought a used Raleigh xxix and it should be here next week and I diubt this bike will be used anymore so I might sell it.


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## txdiamond17 (Sep 13, 2010)

Nashbar has the 20% off now. My question is if the nashbar with aluminum frame and disk brakes is a better deal than the 2010 SE Stout with a steel frame and regular brakes. The price difference is only $38 delivered since Nashbar charges tax in TX. Let me know so I can decide and order one. Thanks guys


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

The Nashbar is a 2008 SE Stout, which is aluminum. The 2010 is steel. The nashbar does have discs, but you can always upgrade to BB7s for less than $100 later on. Clincher brakes work just fine as long as your rims stay true. Other than that, for $38 difference, pick the one that has the best specs, or you like the looks of the best.


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## txdiamond17 (Sep 13, 2010)

That's the kicker Frog, I don't know [email protected]#$ about components. I am in the 250# range (hence needing a bike to lose some) and I want the thing to stay together. I like the looks of the looptail frame on the 10 and I keep reading that steel is a better ride than aluminum, but what the hell do I know? If Nash didn't charge tax it would be a no brainer. I have actually been waiting for a 20-25% off sale to order one, so I did, but didn't realize the tax thing until I started the order process. So a new dilemma. I like the 10 but I thought the disks on the aluminum might be a better deal.


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## wyrda (Nov 14, 2009)

txdiamond17 said:


> That's the kicker Frog, I don't know [email protected]#$ about components. I am in the 250# range (hence needing a bike to lose some) and I want the thing to stay together. I like the looks of the looptail frame on the 10 and I keep reading that steel is a better ride than aluminum, but what the hell do I know? If Nash didn't charge tax it would be a no brainer. I have actually been waiting for a 20-25% off sale to order one, so I did, but didn't realize the tax thing until I started the order process. So a new dilemma. I like the 10 but I thought the disks on the aluminum might be a better deal.


The biggest difference in part spec is the crank - the nashbar has a nice external bb one while the stout has an isis. Isis is still very practical, just not as nice as external.

The frame of the stout will likely be better than the nashbar. The nashbar comes with pretty rough welds in a few spots, and the disc tabs aren't quite as straight as on other frames.

If you have any interest in upgrades in the future, I'd say go with the stout. Especially if you'd be buying it through a shop. The frame is a better investment. 
With BB7s and a nicer wheel set it would make a pretty solid bike.


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## Mike Gager (Jul 30, 2010)

just got mine today in the mail. ordered it monday morning so only 2 days shipping!

still putting it together so no ride report but everything looks real nice.

1 question though, new to single speed, how do you tension the chain/tighten the rear wheels while making sure the wheel is centered and straight? seems i get it straight but then i tighten the little chin tug and it pulls the wheel to that side. any advice?


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## Mike Gager (Jul 30, 2010)

nevermind i figured it out

took the bike for a spin and it feels way different then my hardrock. it feels i lot more stiff, maybe because of the rigid fork i guess. also feels quite a bit more twitchy, will have to get used to that

BTW if any one cares i weighed my bike tonight, 27lbs 6.5oz its a 21" size


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## Mike Gager (Jul 30, 2010)

just finished its first real ride, a 2.5 mile commute to my work. i must say im very pleased so far. the bike feels very solid, the twitchiness i felt on the first ride is gone so im not sure what that was about. steering is very precise and the ride itself is not bad at all

i got the brakes adjusted pretty good but they still need broken in, ill reserve judgement on them til they are

standing power transfer feels really good even at my weight (350lbs) my hardrock sometimes feels a bit soft when i stand to pedal but not this bike

i bought the bike to use as a commuter, so ill be adding some diferent tires and likely mount some fenders and lights to it as well. i doubt ill change much else on it though as
about the only thing so far i dont like about the bike is the color, the gold, while not really that bad, isnt my thing. i may be giving it a flat black spray job in its near future

BTW looking at the BD website the Windsor Cliff 29.1 looks to be the exact same bike with a different crankset. not sure if thats mentioned in this thread or not


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

PoisonDartFrog said:


> Digging my $262 NAshbar SS29er. Upgrades so far:
> 
> Clipless pedals
> ESI Chunky grips
> ...


Ended up running Kenda Small Block 8 on the rear. Mounted the Wierwolf up front and unless it's my imagination, it made the ride a bit more plush.

Mounted the tires on a set of WTB Laserdisc Trails I got 2nd hand. Using a set of Axelrod non-QR skewers with a Surly Tugnutt.

The chain tensioner that comes with the bike is good, because it has tabs that go into the dropout which engage axle housing rather than the QR skewer. But the Surly doesn't have the tension block with the channel in it that wraps around the ends of the dropouts, so to remove the tire you don't have to change the setting on the tensioner - you just loosen the QR and pop it off to remove the wheel.


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## alds33 (Oct 3, 2010)

*Frame size*

I am 5' 11'' and was looking forward to purchasing the Nashbar SS 29er but they only have the 19'' and 21'' frame sizes. Wondering if anyone around my size had gotten the 19? If so any feedback? I tested out a medium and large frame at my local bike shop and the medium seems to be the right one, large felt like if i was on stilts.

Thanks


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

*Axelrodz = Singlespeed FAIL*



PoisonDartFrog said:


> Ended up running Kenda Small Block 8 on the rear. Mounted the Wierwolf up front and unless it's my imagination, it made the ride a bit more plush.
> 
> Mounted the tires on a set of WTB Laserdisc Trails I got 2nd hand. Using a set of Axelrod non-QR skewers with a Surly Tugnutt.
> 
> The chain tensioner that comes with the bike is good, because it has tabs that go into the dropout which engage axle housing rather than the QR skewer. But the Surly doesn't have the tension block with the channel in it that wraps around the ends of the dropouts, so to remove the tire you don't have to change the setting on the tensioner - you just loosen the QR and pop it off to remove the wheel.


Well, the Axelrodz didn't work out so well on the rear. These may be great skewers for geared/vertical drop-outs, but you just can't get them tight enough on horizontal DOs.

Took the new, improved Nashbar Stout out on Sunday to my local trail, and halfway thru the ride I noticed that every time I used my rear brake, the rotor would lever the wheel sideways, because the left side of the axle would pull backwards, and the tire would rub on the left chain stay.

I tightened it as much as I dared on the trail and tried to use my rear brake as little as possible until I got back to the parking lot. Long story short, the skewer rod is steel, but the nut is aluminum, and I ended up stripping the threads out of the nut before I could get it tight enough to stop the wheel movement. At least I waited to get back to the car.

Got a heavy all-steel skewer I will tr next. If that fails I am gonna have to go back to a rear hub with a bolted axle.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

PoisonDartFrog said:


> Well, the Axelrodz didn't work out so well on the rear. These may be great skewers for geared/vertical drop-outs, but you just can't get them tight enough on horizontal DOs.
> 
> Took the new, improved Nashbar Stout out on Sunday to my local trail, and halfway thru the ride I noticed that every time I used my rear brake, the rotor would lever the wheel sideways, because the left side of the axle would pull backwards, and the tire would rub on the left chain stay.
> 
> ...


fwiw the Halo Hex bolt-on skewers have a steel nut with handy no-turn tab too


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

boomn said:


> fwiw the Halo Hex bolt-on skewers have a steel nut with handy no-turn tab too


Awesome, thanks for the tip bro! I may try these next, they come in a lot of different colors, and there is even an XL version for thicker drop-outs (but only in black :bluefrown: ). Perfect, and only ~$15.

EDIT: Anyone got a hot tip on where to get these? They are sold out everywhere I look.


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

PoisonDartFrog said:


> Awesome, thanks for the tip bro! I may try these next, they come in a lot of different colors, and there is even an XL version for thicker drop-outs (but only in black :bluefrown: ). Perfect, and only ~$15.
> 
> EDIT: Anyone got a hot tip on where to get these? They are sold out everywhere I look.


I've read that the axelrodZ pretty much blow anyway. On my rear I have a dmr revolver hub and it uses two bolts that thread right to the hub, and I never had an issue


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## alds33 (Oct 3, 2010)

*Suspension Fork*

Can it be upgraded to a suspension fork? Probably a silly question but i am new to this. Thanks in advance


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## ricot83 (Jul 2, 2008)

Most deffinately compatible with suspension If I were keeping mine that's probably what I would do.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

FYI, for those upgrading to QR hubs, the RAV-X skewers are ~ 1/2" longer than standard skewers. Works great with my Surly Tuggnut, and has plenty of engagement, holds the wheel nice and tight.


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## HeyitsDave (Jul 20, 2009)

Yes, I must be nuts:thumbsup: . I've got around 350 miles on my nashbar SS and I love it! In fact, I have sold off all my 26" hardtail parts after realizing I would not be riding that bike any longer . I have purchased a Windsor Ciff 29.1 that I'm going to put the 3x9 from the 26er, clean off the rim brake bosses and paint it green just like my SS.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

Good to hear, got through the summer with no issues on my Nash. Seems to be a solid ride so far.


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## HeyitsDave (Jul 20, 2009)

I also replaced the OE chain at 300 miles. Stretched enough for me to consider it done. Same amount of mileage as my geared bike too. I bought a 3/32 chain branded Sunlite. The OE chain weighed noticeably more than the new cheapo replacement . Nice and smooth again.


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## sprocket47 (Oct 19, 2010)

I purchased the Widsor 29.1 (aluminum SS 29er) from bikesdirect at the beginning of the year around $370?. It looks like a very similar setup at the Nashbar SS. I didn't have the funds to get all the goods off the bat so I did this and I've been upgrading parts as needed, which is part of the fun for me. It's been a great bike and I've ridden it hard. I had to install a half link to the chain to get the proper tension...that was the major problem off the bat but easily resolved.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

had my first issue with my Nashbar. The front brake cable has rubbed some paint off the frame.

Not a bad problem after a summer of riding!!!!!


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

PoorBob said:


> had my first issue with my Nashbar. The front brake cable has rubbed some paint off the frame.
> 
> Not a bad problem after a summer of riding!!!!!


these things work great for protecting paint from cable rub


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

PoorBob said:


> had my first issue with my Nashbar. The front brake cable has rubbed some paint off the frame.
> 
> Not a bad problem after a summer of riding!!!!!


I had the same problem - the cables are too long as they ship from Nashbar. I shortened them when I put the BB7s on. I still have some cable rub marks on the head tube from having it roof mounted for a summer trip to Michigan and back. It's all just cosmetic though - I am not worries about it at all.


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## Mike Gager (Jul 30, 2010)

mine came with a little sticker to protect from rub wear


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

Mike Gager said:


> mine came with a little sticker to protect from rub wear


Sure, rub it in


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## Mike Gager (Jul 30, 2010)

lol i didnt use it! i like the missing paint look


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Mike Gager said:


> lol i didnt use it! i like the missing paint look


you should try out this stuff, it works great!


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## HeyitsDave (Jul 20, 2009)

Mine is wearing a gauze bandage where it has a boo boo from the cable rub and my handlebar bag.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

I would say its going to depend on the type of riding you plan on doing....


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## sbmtb (Jun 21, 2008)

I have been riding my Nashbar 29er since July and have loved it. I am 52 and get a kick out of seeing some of the other "old" guys buying a full suspension 27 speed bike while I buy the single speed rigid.

The only problems I have had during the last 4 months was a front flat during first mile of my first ride, the cable paint rub mark and I have lost the plugs for the grips. The only change I made to the bike was to add spd pedals.

The only change I am contemplating is a tire swap for the muddy spring rides. 

The only downside to owning a 29er is that the tires seem to be more expensive and my cheap bike computer doesn't have a code for 29" tires.


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

sbmtb said:


> ...snip.........
> 
> The only downside to owning a 29er is that the tires seem to be more expensive and my cheap bike computer doesn't have a code for 29" tires.


You should be able to calculate or measure the circumference of your tire and input it manually. Even the cheapest bike computer I own let me do this.

My 29er Big Apple is 2035mm not sure what that is in inches.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

So i am getting a ton of "ditch the Nashbar and buy a good bike" when I asked about wheels. So for the other Nasbar guys what wheel set would you go with?


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## Mike Gager (Jul 30, 2010)

PoorBob said:


> So i am getting a ton of "ditch the Nashbar and buy a good bike" when I asked about wheels. So for the other Nasbar guys what wheel set would you go with?


Is there something wrong with the wheels you have?

As for the bike snobbery tell people you have a SE stout and maybe that will suffice


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

+1 on the "2008 SE Stout" advice for the bike snobs. 

Or even better, tell them something outrageous, like "it's a custom frame from an exclusive small-volume builder in Europe, you wouldn't have heard of him". Then just ride away before they ask any follow-up questions 

And BTW, I think these are the same Alex wheels that came stock on the Stout that year as well. They aren't particularly light or pretty, but they are durable. It all depends on what you are after. Personally, I can't see spending a lot of $$ upgrading the wheels on a bike at this price point. One of the things I like about it is that I paid less than $300 to start. But that's just a personal choice.

I got a set of used WTB Laserdiscs with "Gravity" hubs that came off of a Moto Fantom Pro 29er that a local guy was upgrading. $50. I use the stock wheels now with a 16t cog and street tires. 

To answer your question, I am considering the Stan's No-Tubes Flows and ZTR hubs when these wear out or break. Honestly, I'll probably get tired of the bike and just get a new one before that happens.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

PoorBob said:


> So i am getting a ton of "ditch the Nashbar and buy a good bike" when I asked about wheels.


Sorry for being defensive about this, but in everyone else's defense that's _not_ what was said. Most people were saying to not bother yet with spending as much on wheels as you did on the bike, but to maybe start simpler with tires that will be faster for the amount of road riding you said you do.

And the few saying to "ditch they Nashbar" weren't saying to get a "good" bike, just suggestions for different styles of bike such as a cross bike that might be more appropriate for your use.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

I dont know what to think, when I ask for a wheel why am I getting told to buy a differnt bike. Im not racing somebody and I love the 29r and infact i dont think ill go back to a multi speed bike again so the good old Nashbar 29r is it for me. Id like to get some wheels that i can put skewers on since the nash wheels got that nice bolt running through them. also id like to get a wheel with a better hub. So maybe my questions should be whats a good mid range price hub, and from there just wrap a mod priced rim around it. 

Boomn, my only issue is when I ask about wheels i get a few responses on wheels and a bunch of responses to change bike, or dont waste money etc. Its nice of people to look out for my wallet but at the same time Im a big kid. I guess thats just part of the forum life, be ready to get more then you ask for......


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

PoorBob said:


> I dont know what to think, when I ask for a wheel why am I getting told to buy a differnt bike. Im not racing somebody and I love the 29r and infact i dont think ill go back to a multi speed bike again so the good old Nashbar 29r is it for me. Id like to get some wheels that i can put skewers on since the nash wheels got that nice bolt running through them. also id like to get a wheel with a better hub. So maybe my questions should be whats a good mid range price hub, and from there just wrap a mod priced rim around it.
> 
> Boomn, my only issue is when I ask about wheels i get a few responses on wheels and a bunch of responses to change bike, or dont waste money etc. Its nice of people to look out for my wallet but at the same time Im a big kid. I guess thats just part of the forum life, be ready to get more then you ask for......


yeah, they're trying to help in their own way, and sometimes those kind of suggestions seem so unsolicited only because you hadn't yet had that idea yourself. I still think the tire idea could be a great choice too Inspired by comments and pics on this forum I started building up a budget 29er as a similar dual purpose bike using larger volume cyclocross tires (Speedmax 700x40c). I've tested the tires a little bit so far and they absolutely _fly_ compared to mtb tires and can grip on the trails fairly well too (in a different way than an mtb though)

Looking at the components of a wheel is a very good place to think about it. There is large variety of hubs and rims out there with pretty different designs and qualities, so the combinations you can put together are nearly infinite. The Universal Cycles wheelset builder is a good place to easily look at a lot of options for custom, handbuilt wheels and see what they would cost, then order from them or take your idea to a wheelbuilder like mikesee, Orion Cycles, etc. For example you can get a handbuilt wheelset with Shimano SLX hubs, good double-butted spokes, and Mavic A317 rims for not much over $200. Orion quoted me for the same set but with Stan's Arch tubeless rims well under $300 earlier this year. FWIW, if you're moving to quick release the Shimano skewers are 100% recommended over almost anything else out there, and they should come with the Shimano hubs. These wheels could be a good deal too


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

boomn said:


> FWIW, if you're moving to quick release the Shimano skewers are 100% recommended over almost anything else out there, and they should come with the Shimano hubs.


If they are long enough for the rear. When I went to QR hubs on the back, I added a Surly TuggNut, and most skewers didn't have enough engagement.

When you go to QR on a SS with sliding DOs and disc brakes, you gotta get that QR skewer tight, and I do mean TIGHT. Otherwise, the braking action of the discs tend to lever the left side of your hub backwards out of the DOs, and your wheel ends up crooked in the frame.


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## jbb94952 (Jun 17, 2010)

(Disclaimer - I own a Nashbar 29er)

Sooo.... I saw one guy tell you kinda snarkily that even if you spend bucks on a nice wheelset, you still have a Nashbar 29er. Maybe I missed it, correct me if I'm wrong - but I didn't see tons of people telling you to get a different bike.

I agree that the wheelset it came with sounds more than adequate for the riding you describe. You have a set of Alex DM18's, which I think are decent at the price you paid, and pretty well suited to the bike. So I'd also agree that you'd be better off looking at tires that are more suited to your terrain and/or lghter than the Nano's it came with. You'll be doing this fairly soon anyway - In my experience, Nano's wear pretty quickly.

Speaking as someone who owns the same bike as you do, I don't really understand all the butthurt from people who own bikes at the lower end of the food chain that is all over here at the moment (all of the Walgoose threads are especially ridiculous, this, etc.) when someone is told that it may not be cost effective to upgrade individual parts on a bike that is inexpensive. Guess what cheap bike owners - THEY'RE RIGHT! The cheapest way to get a gaggle of good components is to buy them all at once on a new bike.

That doesn't mean your bike "sucks." With the SE badges, it listed for about $600 when it was sold as an 08 Stout, so if you want to poop on people with cheaper bikes than you, there are plenty of cheaper rigid 29" bikes out there for you to crap on, if that's what floats your boat. GT Peace 9er? Well, that thing sure must suck, because it is selling for around $500 these days. See? Feel better?

Me personally, I think the Peace and the Stout are pretty much apples-apples. But that's me.

You also got a nicer parts mix from Nashbar than if you had actually purchased it as a Stout - one of those nicer parts was your wheelset. SE shipped that bike with vbrakes. Being that they are disc ready, I'd say you'd be better served upgrading to BB7's if you really have to buy something, and that's cheaper than a wheelset anyway.

So, pat yourself on the back for getting a great deal, upgrade whatever you want, but it would be nice if people weren't so damn sensitive about all this "mah bike cost THIS much..." stuff. I'm well aware of what I paid for my bike, I wanted to try 29" wheels, singlespeeding, and re-experience rigidity, and this bike lets me do all of that. Turns out, it is also a surprisingly nice bike. I'm happy. That doesn't mean it can't be criticized for what it is and where it is lacking.

Thanks, I feel better now.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

PoisonDartFrog said:


> If they are long enough for the rear. When I went to QR hubs on the back, I added a Surly TuggNut, and most skewers didn't have enough engagement.
> 
> When you go to QR on a SS with sliding DOs and disc brakes, you gotta get that QR skewer tight, and I do mean TIGHT. Otherwise, the braking action of the discs tend to lever the left side of your hub backwards out of the DOs, and your wheel ends up crooked in the frame.


Maybe the Nashbar is different, but I've run a Shimano QR skewer with a Surly Tuggnut on my On One Inbred without any problem. In fact, I was able to run both a Tuggnut on the drive side and a HomeBrewed Nut Tugger on the brake side with an XT skewer. Those HomeBrewed Tuggers work great and are a good alternative to a Surly Tuggnut.

The tightness issue is why many specifically recommend Shimano skewers, as they get more clamping force on the dropout given the same closing force on the lever


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

jbb94952 said:


> In my experience, Nano's wear pretty quickly


FWIW my experience has been the opposite. The aftermarket Nano I used to have on the back of my 29er was the slowest wearing mountain tire I've ever had and lasted a long time even with the couple miles of pavement to and from every trail ride I did as well as other around town rides. Maybe the stock Nano's on these bikes was an OEM version with a different compound? Either way, the Nano isn't necessarily a bad tire at all for mixed riding like that


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

jbb94952 said:


> In my experience, Nano's wear pretty quickly


FWIW my experience has been the opposite. The aftermarket Nano I used to have on the back of my 29er was the slowest wearing mountain tire I've ever had and lasted a long time even with the couple miles of pavement to and from every trail ride I did as well as other around town rides. Maybe the stock Nano's on these bikes was an OEM version with a different compound? Either way, the Nano isn't necessarily a bad tire at all for mixed riding like that, though there certainly could be even better choices for the OP


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

boomn said:


> a HomeBrewed Nut Tugger on the brake side with an XT skewer. Those HomeBrewed Tuggers work great and are a good alternative to a Surly Tuggnut.
> 
> The tightness issue is why many specifically recommend Shimano skewers, as they get more clamping force on the dropout given the same closing force on the lever


Just asking, but why run a tensioner device on the non-drive side? There are no forces there pulling the wheel forward, so it's not really doing anything, unless I am missing something?

I use RAVX Skewers because they are about 3/8" longer than most other skewers. I discovered this quite by accident when I stripped another rear skewer on the trail, and wandered into the sun and Ski in Grapevine, TX for a quick fix. These were all they had but they work great. Another option to add to XT skewers for this application. They may be cheaper as well, not sure what XTs go for.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

PoisonDartFrog said:


> Just asking, but why run a tensioner device on the non-drive side? There are no forces there pulling the wheel forward, so it's not really doing anything, unless I am missing something?
> 
> I use RAVX Skewers because they are about 3/8" longer than most other skewers. I discovered this quite by accident when I stripped another rear skewer on the trail, and wandered into the sun and Ski in Grapevine, TX for a quick fix. These were all they had but they work great. Another option to add to XT skewers for this application. They may be cheaper as well, not sure what XTs go for.


The advantage of a non-drive-side tensioner is repeatability and speed when reinstalling the wheel. The wheel always goes back in exactly the same spot with no time needed to eyeball it or keep playing with the position. I found this especially helpful with rear disc brakes where pad-to-rotor clearance can be pretty tight and a bit of wheel misalignment can make the rotor zing the pads more often or even brake noisier because the pads are contacting the rotor unevenly

Shimano skewers can be had cheaply. They're pretty much all the same, from Deore to XT, plus they come with the Shimano hubs


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## jbb94952 (Jun 17, 2010)

*Nano's*



boomn said:


> FWIW my experience has been the opposite. The aftermarket Nano I used to have on the back of my 29er was the slowest wearing mountain tire I've ever had and lasted a long time even with the couple miles of pavement to and from every trail ride I did as well as other around town rides


I'm betting I ride more pavement than you do. I use this bike for everything from commuting to grocery getting to kids rides to singletrack. The unfortunate reality of my life at the moment is that I ride a lot more pavement than dirt. The fortunate reality is that I enjoy that as well. 

Don't get me wrong, I think Nano's are a great all purpose tire, especially for around here. However, I've seen a lot of complaints that they are way heavier than listed, so I think if you are looking to lose rotational weight, that would be a great place to start.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

jbb94952 said:


> I'm betting I ride more pavement than you do. I use this bike for everything from commuting to grocery getting to kids rides to singletrack. The unfortunate reality of my life at the moment is that I ride a lot more pavement than dirt. The fortunate reality is that I enjoy that as well.


well to be fair, any mountain tire is going to wear very quickly under those circumstances. My point was that the Nano wore slower for me than other mountain tires used in the same way.



jbb94952 said:


> Don't get me wrong, I think Nano's are a great all purpose tire, especially for around here. However, I've seen a lot of complaints that they are way heavier than listed, so I think if you are looking to lose rotational weight, that would be a great place to start.


Check out this Google Doc for real-world 29er tires weights. Average Nano weight is 596g, which is quite good imho


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## jbb94952 (Jun 17, 2010)

boomn said:


> well to be fair, any mountain tire is going to wear very quickly under those circumstances. My point was that the Nano wore slower for me than other mountain tires used in the same way.
> 
> Check out this Google Doc for real-world 29er tires weights. Average Nano weight is 596g, which is quite good imho


Sure, pavement is going to chew up any MTB tire. However, I think Poor Bob mentioned he rides a similar mix of pavement, path, and dirt - maybe it was in the thread he originally posted in and not here - so I'd imagine he's going to have similar results.

As for weights, I'm going from what I've seen posted. I think the last place I saw this complaint about the Nano was Chainlove, but I've seen it a few other times as well.

Wouldn't stop me from buying them again.


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## Mike Gager (Jul 30, 2010)

i dont even use the tensioner on my bike. its just hanging out back there doing nothing. i can get my chain tensioned just fine with out it

as for mods to the nashbar bike, id look at different forks, the stock fork weighs about 3-1/2 lbs, there are several different rigid forks out there that weigh at least a pound lighter for less then $100. im looking at getting the voodoo zombie or maybe a surly km


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Mike Gager said:


> i dont even use the tensioner on my bike. its just hanging out back there doing nothing. i can get my chain tensioned just fine with out it


I'll admit I'm picky about chain tension and disc alignment, and that's why I like tensioners. I always get the exact same setup with zero time needed to even look at or test either factor. I'm still capable of setting up a bike without one though


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## sbmtb (Jun 21, 2008)

I don't plan on replacing the wheels until I damage one. I am looking for some new tires for the muddy spring..


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

Hey, how about new life for the Nashbar thread!!!!!!

Guys and or gals, this is some good info....

Thats a good point about the steal forks being heavy. I see a people going carbon, but thats not for me....


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## HeyitsDave (Jul 20, 2009)




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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

Dang, your nashbar sprouted gears!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## sbmtb (Jun 21, 2008)

Picked up some CST Caballero Comps for $14 (I am trying to keep the 29er on a budget). Had much better traction in the snow today with the CST tires than the WTB nano's.


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## flyingWeez (Nov 27, 2010)

So I finally got my Nashy. I think I got one of the last ones back in October but had to wait until Christmas to use it. I'm pretty excited about what all I have in store for it. My in-laws got me a Shimano Alfine 8 speed hub and all the needed accessories to go with the hub. So I'll be working on getting that built up and I also want to switch the Tektro discs out for some BB7s eventually (my birthday is in Feb), and maybe one day swap the handlebars out for a Titec H-Bar handlebar. 

Also my color is different than the OP's, mine is gold (almost exactly the same as my 2008 Bianchi Volpe commuter bike). I'll get some pictures up shortly.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

They switch the paint over to the gold for 2010. Its a classy color lol


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## HeyitsDave (Jul 20, 2009)

Gold- it's a classy primer coat:thumbsup:


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## Mike Gager (Jul 30, 2010)

i plan on painting mine flat black soon as it warms up a bit


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

When you paint your nashbar will you strip the old paint off or just scuff the awsome gold?


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## Mike Gager (Jul 30, 2010)

no reason to remove the paint, just scuff it up good with scotchbright or sandpaper and it should be good to go


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## HeyitsDave (Jul 20, 2009)

Yep, scotchbrite hand pad works like magic.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

nice, as much as i like he gold i also would like another color. I have used chemical strippers in the past that work well but also cost an arm and a leg and are nasty to work with


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

I like the gold. It's pimp..

And i am not taking it apart to paint it... It's a $300 bike. If I am going to go that trouble I am going to build a new bike.


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## flyingWeez (Nov 27, 2010)

Here's my Nashbar Alfine nee Single Speed. The last picture is to show that Nashbar isn't the only company to paint their frames gold. It's nearly identical to my Bianchi Volpe.


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## flyingWeez (Nov 27, 2010)

Here's my Nashbar Alfine nee Single Speed. The last picture is to show that Nashbar isn't the only company to paint their frames gold. It's nearly identical to my Bianchi Volpe.


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## flyingWeez (Nov 27, 2010)

Well the pictures didn't show up on my first try, so lets see if this works.


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## flyingWeez (Nov 27, 2010)

Whoa, sorry for jacking the thread guys. Looks like I should have figured out how to post pics before came in here and screwed things up. Derr.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

Ok for a FNG would you like to explain what you have going on with that rear hub


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## flyingWeez (Nov 27, 2010)

Though probably not as seasoned as most other people I'm mostly an FNG on the forums with that said, as far as the rear hub goes I have been wanting/needing (mostly wanting) a backup commuter bike that I could use for singletrack. Pretty much since I've been biking I have always been interested in internal gear hubs and I haven't seen a mountain bike with an OEM IGH. So I came across the Nashbar SS and figured it would be a good enough blank canvas to build up the bike I wanted, then I found this forum and read the good things about it and pulled the trigger.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

Here is my Nasbar/Stout 29er SS (after a few upgrades):









My bargain upgrades:
Easton Bar
ESI Chunky Grips
Jagwire Ripcord Cables
Avid BB7 Brakes
WTB Laserdisc Wheels (2nd hand off of a Moto Fantom Pro)
WTB Weirwolf 2.55 up front, Kenda SB8 in back
Shimano XT Skewers
Surly Tugnutt


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

Nice


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## sbmtb (Jun 21, 2008)

Broke something

First part I break on the Nashbar SS 29er in 11 months of ownership, a tooth on the rear cog. very weird....


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## sbmtb (Jun 21, 2008)

*Just Bought Another Nashbar SS*

I just bought the Nashbar Hounder SS road bike. Special sales price, 185.10 all in.

It has a flip flop hub....


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## Mike Gager (Jul 30, 2010)

sbmtb said:


> Broke something
> 
> First part I break on the Nashbar SS 29er in 11 months of ownership, a tooth on the rear cog. very weird....


funny you should mention this. over the winter i swapped out the rear cog for a bigger cog and noticed one of the teeth was broken off on the factory cog. not sure when it happened and didnt seem to bother anything being missing


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## sbmtb (Jun 21, 2008)

I noticed the broken tooth right away. It caused the chain to come off twice on a 7 mile ride.


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## sbmtb (Jun 21, 2008)

I have put about 100 miles on the Nashbar Hounder. It is a blast to rider. Only change so far was to replace the pedals.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

Hounder?


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## markaitch (Feb 17, 2010)

sbmtb said:


> I have put about 100 miles on the Nashbar Hounder. It is a blast to rider. Only change so far was to replace the pedals.


sorry to be snarky but...

you do realize that this is a mountain bike forum, right?


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## sbmtb (Jun 21, 2008)

markaitch said:


> sorry to be snarky but...
> 
> you do realize that this is a mountain bike forum, right?


Yes.. I ride a Nashbar SS 29er Mtn Bike and have posted about it in this forum. I just wanted to provide info on another Nashbar SS that I just bought. No more Hounder posts......


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## flyin200ln (Aug 3, 2005)

Just ordered two of these today. One for myself and one for the wife. Thnaks for all the informatoin on this bike. You guys talked me into it.


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## sbmtb (Jun 21, 2008)

*Hub Maint?*

Anybody taken the hubs apart to clean and lube them? I am assuming they are loose bearings....

I switched my front chain ring to 34 (broke a tooth on the original 32), so I am now running 34 18. I also switched to CST Critter Comp tires. The Nanos roll on hardpack better than the Critters, but the Critters handle wet conditions and loose corners better.


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## flipr (Sep 5, 2011)

My Nashbar single speed 29er... it's new so I don't know about long term durability, but so far I like. (This is the 19" )


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## flyin200ln (Aug 3, 2005)

Wow, I ordered two of these on monday (Labor day) and they arrived on Wed at 9AM. Bikes look great and Im very happy with the purchase. As others have reported the color has a shade of olive to it which isnt bad at all. Welds look uniform and the componets are nice for a bike of this price. Its rained all week so maybe next week it'll be dry enough to hit the trails. So far I'd buy these again.


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## flipr (Sep 5, 2011)

FedEX delivered wife's 17" on 9 Sept., that makes a pair.


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## flyin200ln (Aug 3, 2005)

We switched out the pimp crome cables for jagwire black, added Ergon cork grips, and 350 mm cheap seat post and rode 19 miles today. Kicked our @$$, but the bikes did great. Very happy with the purchase. Will post pictures soon.


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## flyin200ln (Aug 3, 2005)

*Liking the nash9er*

After about 35 miles we are starting to get use to the rigid forks and the bikes handling. Cleared a rocky uphill section I had never made on a 26 inch tire, I was pumped. Great ride, glad we made the purchase.


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## guestjam (Sep 19, 2011)

*Similar to SE bike?*

Hi - new to the site, and to 29ers. I commute every day from Williamsburg Brooklyn to near Union Square in Manhattan. Typically I ride a single speed road bike, but I plan to ride all winter, and I wanted to try it with an SS 29er.

Just bought my first last night, a used SE Stout SS. Bought from a nice guy in NYC who took great care of it, looks like it was never stored outside. He was asking 300, I got it for a lot less - more than 200, but not by much. 

I think it's a model year 2008? I'm completely hooked - such a great ride.

I read somewhere that these Nashbar SS 29ers were essentially the same as the 2008 SE Stout, is that true?


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## guestjam (Sep 19, 2011)

*Whups*

I see earlier posts calling it out as same as SE Stout 2008 - question answered.

After a few posts, maybe I'll post pics of my SE to see if anyone can identify it as a 2008.


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## flyin200ln (Aug 3, 2005)

20 % off right now at Nashbar. Makes the nash9er SS 300.00 + S&H


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

flyin200ln said:


> 20 % off right now at Nashbar. Makes the nash9er SS 300.00 + S&H


Thanks dude! Been wanting to buy this bike for some time. Kinda been waiting till price bottoms out. That 20% was good enough! I just pulled the trigger and ordered one!


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

Anyone mount Hayes Nine hydraulic brakes to the Nashbar SS? I found a set locally cheap and wonder if anyone has mounted them?


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

How is Nashbar Nation doing? Its been by far a horrible year for me getting out on the bike. Had a lot of plans work/mother nature had other plans. Needless to say I'm a lil fatter, and a lil older and needing to ride more then ever...... Hope everybody is happy with the bikes I know its been a good bike so far, granted the miles are still low...


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

Muxherdlr said:


> Anyone mount Hayes Nine hydraulic brakes to the Nashbar SS? I found a set locally cheap and wonder if anyone has mounted them?


Brakes are brakes. They will fit fine.


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## HeyitsDave (Jul 20, 2009)

I got my Nashbar SS on August 29th 2010 and just hit the 2000 mile mark today, November 19, 2011.

I ride it primarily on the Fullerton Loop (which I live right by) and use it as a training tool.Normally 20-25 miles on Saturdays and Sundays. But, I've ridden it at Hurkey Creek and also other local trails in so cal.

I upgraded the wheels at 1000 miles when the free hub began acting up. I've also replaced the tires but went with the same folding Nano as it came with. Lightweight tubes,cloth rim tape. The rest is as it came. 

I really love this bike.


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## wjphillips (Oct 13, 2008)

I just went to the nashbar website and they are liquidating these bikes for $343.00.


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## Deltakus (Sep 3, 2009)

They have it on sale all the time. I hope they don't get rid of it. Or if they do, replace it with a steel one.



wjphillips said:


> I just went to the nashbar website and they are liquidating these bikes for $343.00.


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## lcampbell89 (Nov 21, 2011)

I was wondering for any of those that have replaced the fork to a carbon fork. What fork did you replace it with? And what is the crown to axle sizing of the original fork?

Nashbar has a carbon cyclo cross fork but I believe it is only a crown to axle length of 395 mm which I am assuming is not big enough.

PS I am talking about a rigid carbon fork. Although also interested in hearing about anyone who did replace with a suspension fork.

Thanks,
Lee


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## krott5333 (Aug 6, 2009)

lcampbell89 said:


> I was wondering for any of those that have replaced the fork to a carbon fork. What fork did you replace it with? And what is the crown to axle sizing of the original fork?
> 
> Nashbar has a carbon cyclo cross fork but I believe it is only a crown to axle length of 395 mm which I am assuming is not big enough.
> 
> ...


pricepoint.com has a Ritchey Carbon 29er fork for $190 with disc mounts that I bet would work great with this bike.


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## iamjolly123 (Jul 13, 2011)

flyin200ln said:


> Wow, I ordered two of these on monday (Labor day) and they arrived on Wed at 9AM. Bikes look great and Im very happy with the purchase. As others have reported the color has a shade of olive to it which isnt bad at all. Welds look uniform and the componets are nice for a bike of this price. Its rained all week so maybe next week it'll be dry enough to hit the trails. So far I'd buy these again.


Hi, I was wondering how tall you are and how tall your wife is? I am deciding between the 17" and the 19" myself.


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## iamjolly123 (Jul 13, 2011)

Does anyone know what wheels it comes with? And are the hubs 9spd capeable?


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

FYI... I swapped teh rigid CrMo fork on this bike for a Reba RLT... with both forks off, the Reba is noticeably lighter. With it installed, it's much easier to lift the front end of this bike than it was before.

Not trying to push anyone towards suspension, but you might not do bad by swapping in a lighter fork, rigid or otherwise.


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## Sarasota (Jan 2, 2007)

Nashbar Nation,

Has anyone considered the Gravity 29er on bikesdirect.com?

Save up to 60% off new Mountain Bikes - MTB - Gravity 29Point1 29er Mountain Bikes

Interested to hear feedback on the Gravity compared to the Nashbar....

Thanks!


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

Nashbar is having a one day 20% off sale, including the Nashbar Single Speed 29er (for discount enter code: 030712), so I ordered one. My size is back-ordered, but I've been looking at budget SS 29ers for a while and with the discount this seems like a great deal.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

67 for a high yesterday, dusted off the Nashbar and hit the park. Still like this bike with what is going to be the 3rd summer riding it this year.


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## flyin200ln (Aug 3, 2005)

On on my second riding season with this bike. Its great I love it. Nothing better than hanging with a group of riders on several thousand dollar geared bikes. Ive upgraded some stuff like the brakes, seat post, and to my old favorite saddle. If your thinking about this bike, GO for it! The only thing I would like to see Nashbar change is to steel verses the Alum.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

flyin200ln said:


> On on my second riding season with this bike. Its great I love it. Nothing better than hanging with a group of riders on several thousand dollar geared bikes. Ive upgraded some stuff like the brakes, seat post, and to my old favorite saddle. If your thinking about this bike, GO for it! The only thing I would like to see Nashbar change is to steel verses the Alum.


Still waiting for mine. What brakes and seat post did you upgrade to?


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## ihaveagibsonsg (Nov 29, 2010)

I was able to pick up a Gary Fisher Marlin for 450$ from the Trek store. It's the same frame as the Rig just without 1,000$ of overpriced upgrades. I'm very happy with mine and I prefer having a squishy fork upfront even if it is a terrible suntour. At least it offers some forgiveness compared to a rigid bike. It weighs in at 27.8 pounds with my chunky forte platform pedals.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

At long last, but about 10 days ahead of schedule, the size 17 Nashbar 29ers are back in stock. Mine is shipping out today -- hooray!


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

be sure to post up some pics when you get it!


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

Will do!


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

Built up my Nashbar 29er today. Arrived in perfect condition, well packaged. Basic box bike build up (attach handlebars and stem, seatpost, front tire, pedals) plus attach front disc brake caliper to fork and attach brake cable (good instructions for the disc brake). So far all stock except pedals (slapped on some XLC campus pedals I had) and my temporary bottle cage. I've got a saddle, grips, pedals and bottle cage ordered.

Rained a lot the last 2 days, so couldn't hit my local singletrack. I took it for a spin on roads, path and a local park where I could play around a bit and get it muddy. It's a lot of fun for a low price!


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

Ahh the good old days! I just retired my Nashbar SS 29er after 3 seasons - hanging in the garage now. It was my first 29er, and my first S S. Great bike for the price.

The original brakes, wheels and tires have almost no miles on them - I got luck and found a great deal on some second-hand wheel and brake upgrades from a local club member almost right after I got the bike. I am going to re-assemble it back to stock. It's an XL/21" - probably gonna sell it.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

What are you riding these days, PDF?


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

BeginnerCycling said:


> What are you riding these days, PDF?


Misfit Dissent. Built it up this last winter.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

Very nice!


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## goalie (Feb 17, 2008)

Nashbar has a 20% off sale going for 2 days. It is still under $400 shipped. I bit the bullet and ordered one.


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## zorro (Feb 26, 2007)

Ahh good lord...decisions, decisions.


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## goalie (Feb 17, 2008)

zorro said:


> Ahh good lord...decisions, decisions.


$376 bucks shipped to Minnesota. My goalie mask cost 4x that much. :thumbsup:


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

I bit on the 20% off bait too... $399 including tax and shipping to Boise


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

Hey folks, I picked up one of these bikes this January as a means of inexpensively returning to mountain biking. So far, it's been a blast. Right now my bike is mostly stock except for switching to a 2.3 Exiwolf to keep the front from washing out in turns and putting on a pair of my trusty SPDs.

Thing is, I'm looking for ways to make it easier for me to ride the bike. Right now, nothing I can do will allow me to manual on this bike, it requires a good hard tug to get the front end off the ground even when I've got my weight way back. I was thinking with a fork that weighs a little over 3 pounds, a new fork might be a good place to start.

Anyone got any recommendations for a fork that will hold up to 6'4" 205lb with a relatively agressive riding style? I do some jumping on the trails and hop over things, and I've been known to put a good hit on the front end when my timing gets off in a technical section. I realize anything can break, but I would like to minimize the chance of just snapping something off. Also, I'm trying not to break the bank. The only other requirement (which should be easy) is it needs to be rated for a 185mm rotor for the BB7 upgrade it's got coming.


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

The box was delivered on my doorstep last night. I'm a complete rookie to doing anything on my bike beside tire/tube changes and basic lube. The bike was easy to assemble. Brakes lined up without any issue. I just had to loosen the caliper once or twice after I got the wheels where they needed to be. The rear appears to be a little out of true, but I've had much worse...

The brakes are so so... After some adjusting help from a guy at work they seem much improved, but still aren't great. They are cheaper mechs though so what do you expect?

The seat absolutely stinks as well. Will be replaced shortly.

It's pretty lightweight for a cheaper bike. I was very pleased with that. The color isn't as bad as I thought it would be and the paint job is pretty decent. You really have to crank down those nuts to get the wheel to stay in place when mashing on it. Bring a multitool and adjustable wrench with you on the first few rides just in case. 

The gear ratio, to me is pretty light. I ride most of the climbs here in Boise, (which there are a lot of) in 2-4 and drop to 2-3 for steeper stuff. I don't feel like this gear is much bigger than 2-4, but we'll see after the ride today.

So far I'm really pleased!


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

After some adjusting I've actually been pleasantly surprised by the brakes (I have hydraulics on my geared MTB). May take some breaking in and adjusting.

I agree with you on the saddle, and I've replaced mine with a Velo Orange Model 3 , and like it much better. The Velo Orange Model 3 is comparable to Brooks B-17 (which I also have on a different bike), but has a pebble finish on top, so it's not as slippery as the B-17.


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

Had my first trail ride tonight on it - just awesome! Really enjoyed the SS experience... just like my old BMX trail days when I was a kid. It was a new experience approaching the climbs and knowing that it's either going to happen in this gear or I'm walking. I had a ton of fun. Rode a simple trail with only about 550 ft of climbing close to home... just a half hour try it out ride but I had a blast!


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

Weighed in today at lbs. 27lbs 8oz stock including heavy ass wellgo pedals


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

Just picked up a used set of Hayes Stroker Trail Hydraulic disk brakes. Can't wait to mount them and try it out!


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## FlyBye (May 26, 2012)

*Stand Over Height of the 17/15 inch frame?*

Those that have the 17" and 15" frame...

What is the stand over height of your frame?

I am considering buying one from Nashbar this weekend, but am leary not being able to straddle it first. I am 5'11" and I have found that not all 17 inch 29er frames are created equal! I am leaning toward the 15" but wanted to hear from someone who already has the same bike.

I have got all the other data, just not the stand over height.

Thanks,

FlyBye


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

FlyBye said:


> Those that have the 17" and 15" frame...
> 
> What is the stand over height of your frame?
> 
> ...


From Nashbar
Frame Specs:
Seat tube length 15" 17" 19" 21"
Top tube length 22.6" 22.7" 23.4" 24.25"
Head tube angle 71° 72° 72° 72°
Seat tube angle 74° 73° 73° 73°
Chainstays 17.7" 17.7" 17.7" 17.7"
BB height 11.9" 11.9" 11.9" 11.9"
Weight 27.62 lbs

You should buy a bike on top tube length not seat tube length.
In this case the top tubes are about the same for 15 and 17 inch frames.
At 5'11" you should have enough stand over with a 17 inch frame (unless you have really short legs).
I would get the 17inch frame I like the frame angles better.
Looking at other frames. At a guess the 15 inch bike will have 1 inch more stand over than a 17 inch frame.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

I'm 5'10" with 31 inch inseam, and I would not go smaller than the 17 inch frame -- it actually feels slightly small, but I think the 19 inch frame would be too big for me.


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## FlyBye (May 26, 2012)

mitzikatzi said:


> From Nashbar
> You should buy a bike on top tube length not seat tube length.


Thanks for the reply, but I'm not focused on seat tube length but the Stand-Over height. The reason being... about a month ago I bought a high end Cannondale 29er 17" frame. After riding it about 20 minutes I realized that it was a bit big for me. I'm new to Mtn biking with most of my bike experience being decades ago on both touring and road racing bikes.

Anyway, I ended up selling the bike a week later. I've got about a 32" inseam and didn't have even an inch between me and the top tube. I did have to raise the seat about a foot just to maintain a slight bend in my knee...

So I'm looking for the frame size that will allow me to have about 2" stand-over the top tube.

Can anyone tell me the height of the top tube (stand over)? 17" or 15"

Thanks


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## FlyBye (May 26, 2012)

BeginnerCycling said:


> I'm 5'10" with 31 inch inseam, and I would not go smaller than the 17 inch frame -- it actually feels slightly small, but I think the 19 inch frame would be too big for me.


Are you riding the 17"? If so about how much "clearance" do you have when standing flatfooted? I would hate to order one and have to send it back unnecessarily.

Thanks for ya'lls patience


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

Yes, I'm riding the 17" -- as you can see from the muddy pic on the prior page, I've got the seat raised as high as the stock seatpost can safely be raised. With a 31" inseam, I have what I deem to be enough standover clearance. I think the 15" would have to be too small for you.


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## FlyBye (May 26, 2012)

BeginnerCycling said:


> Yes, I'm riding the 17" -- as you can see from the muddy pic on the prior page, I've got the seat raised as high as the stock seatpost can safely be raised. With a 31" inseam, I have what I deem to be enough standover clearance. I think the 15" would have to be too small for you.


*Would you mind measuring the top tube down to the floor (stand over height) for me just for kicks?* The reason I ask is that the last 17" I was on (Cannondale) I also had to raise the seat up high while riding, but I still did not have any "clearance" when I was just standing up flat footed.

I think you might be right about me needing the 17", but I would know for sure with the standover height measurements.

On a different note, I tried asking Nashbar yesterday so I could go ahead and order the bike, and I found out that they along with much of the North East was hit by a big storm and at least 2 million were without power. I couldn't get them on the phone today (Saturday)


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## Sickmak90 (May 27, 2012)

Man, I'm wanting one of these badly. How does the rigid setup feel on the rocky stuff? I'm riding a FS 26er with fox float fork and shock. Surely a rigid is gonna feel rough. I still want one bad.


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## goalie (Feb 17, 2008)

Got mine out for a 45 minute "break-in" ride today. I was pleasantly surprised by the brakes. They seemed just fine. No, they are not the most powerful brakes on the planet, but they stopped me just fine from 25mph flying down a hill, and they were not too noisy. 

I am also rather impressed by the crank-set. I am guessing it would be worth half the price I paid for the whole bike (or more). 

Overall, I think the 20% off coupon deal with this bike ($375 shipped) was a steal. I may put a 19 or 20 tooth Surly cog on the rear, but other than that, my "planned" upgrades are all on-hold for the time being.


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## goalie (Feb 17, 2008)

So, question for you guys that have one of these frames, is there a source for the drive side tensioner/hanger? I would like to get a few "extras" in case I ever choose to run it as a 1x9 or something like that.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

FlyBye said:


> *Would you mind measuring the top tube down to the floor (stand over height) for me just for kicks?*


My measurement may not be exact, but measuring from the ground up through the center of the cranks to the top tube, I got about 29.5 inches.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

Sickmak90 said:


> Man, I'm wanting one of these badly. How does the rigid setup feel on the rocky stuff? I'm riding a FS 26er with fox float fork and shock. Surely a rigid is gonna feel rough. I still want one bad.


Yes, it feels .....rigid. But a lot of fun.

So far, only mods to mine are where I touch it: grips, pedals and saddle.
Grips: ODI Cross Trainer
Pedals: Wellgo B087 Platforms
Saddle: Velo Orange Model 3


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## akaHector (Apr 30, 2012)

*long term usage of these bikes*

So, for you folks that have used these for a while, how impressed are you with the overall quality? Most people seem to rate the brakes as so-so. How about the rear hub (I've broken one before on my Rockhopper)? Is the frame one that you would add upgrades to? Or is the overall quality such that you would recommend keeping it stock, wearing it out and then biting the bullet on a more high end rigid bike? Thanks, all!

Loving the singlespeed style!


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

goalie said:


> So, question for you guys that have one of these frames, is there a source for the drive side tensioner/hanger? I would like to get a few "extras" in case I ever choose to run it as a 1x9 or something like that.


Hanger comes with the bike and extras can be purchased through Nashbar.


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## goalie (Feb 17, 2008)

Muxherdlr said:


> Hanger comes with the bike and extras can be purchased through Nashbar.


I searched the Nashbar site for hanger etc and didn't see them, hence the question. Do they have them in the actual stores or something?


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## FlyBye (May 26, 2012)

BeginnerCycling said:


> ... I got about 29.5 inches.


Thanks for taking the time to measure the "stand-over" for me. That gives me the confidence to go ahead with the 17". Hope to order it soon as possible 

I still have been unable to get in touch with Nashbar. It may take several days before they get power back on (???). I did see somewhere that the storm last night killed at least 13 and now they are saying there are at least 3 million without power....


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

goalie said:


> I searched the Nashbar site for hanger etc and didn't see them, hence the question. Do they have them in the actual stores or something?


Idk.... When I get up tomorrow,I'll look on mine and see if it has a part #.


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## goalie (Feb 17, 2008)

Muxherdlr said:


> Idk.... When I get up tomorrow,I'll look on mine and see if it has a part #.


Thanks!!


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## PDXDrew (Mar 1, 2008)

Anyone have larger rotors on the stock setup? 180mm?


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

PDXDrew said:


> Anyone have larger rotors on the stock setup? 180mm?


I just bought a set of Hayes Stroker hydraulic setup and came with 205 rotors plus adapters. Im mounting them tomorrow


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## FlyBye (May 26, 2012)

Well, I just ordered one of the bikes. Can't wait for it to come in!


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

goalie said:


> Thanks!!


Hanger isn't where I thought it was. Search will continue. Sorry man


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## PDXDrew (Mar 1, 2008)

Muxherdlr said:


> I just bought a set of Hayes Stroker hydraulic setup and came with 205 rotors plus adapters. Im mounting them tomorrow


Did you get them on yet?


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

PDXDrew said:


> Did you get them on yet?


Yes


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## FlyBye (May 26, 2012)

FlyBye said:


> Well, I just ordered one of the bikes. Can't wait for it to come in!


The Nashbar SS came in today. This is my first SS, so I know that I have a learning curve, but it looks like it's going to be fun. I've got to get a longer seat post soon and will eventually get some decent pedals. I will give my early impressions and suggestions after I've been on the bike long enough to be fair.

Just got my son a geared Mtn. bike and he is looking forward to "dusting" me on the trails... we'll see  I have found out there is a lot of difference between road racing verses SS Fat Tire mountain "want-ta-bee".

I'll try and post some photos next week after the "carnage".


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

First round of easy cheap upgrades:










Evoke 2 seat - spare (don't love the seat but better than the crappo one it came with)
350 MM seat post - $20 - about an inch to spare on the 19" frame where I like it for height
Quick Release seat post clamp - $10
FSA bash guard - donated from a guy at work

Brakes are doing well now that I've got the wheel straight and the calipers aligned just right.

I'd like to find some wheel/chain tensioners that I can use to easily adjust the alignment of the rear wheel. Surly makes cool ones but they are $$$ Anybody know of some cheap ones that are decently functional?

New stem, maybe bars. I've had the stem bolts loosen so much that the bar spun down on me twice now on rougher rides.


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

stackwalker said:


> ..snip...
> 350 MM seat post - $20 - about an inch to spare on the 19" frame where I like it for height
> ..snip..
> I'd like to find some wheel/chain tensioners that I can use to easily adjust the alignment of the rear wheel. Surly makes cool ones but they are $$$ Anybody know of some cheap ones that are decently functional?
> ...


I hope that means you have about 5 inches of post in the frame. (the minimum insert line plus an inch)?

Redline tensioners maybe?


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

mitzikatzi said:


> I hope that means you have about 5 inches of post in the frame. (the minimum insert line plus an inch)?
> 
> Redline tensioners maybe?


Yeah the minimum plus an inch - If I had it to do over again I'd probably have gotten the 400mm post, but they didn't have an inexpensive one in stock and I wanted to ride!

I'll take a look for the redline tensioners... You have a link?


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

Redline Alloy Chain Tensioners 3/8, Pair Black


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

Anybody weigh just the frame? Not sure if it's worth throwing some carbon into...


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## PDXDrew (Mar 1, 2008)

Looks like price went up 50 bucks.. 449 now. I was hoping to hold out for a 20% off coupon.. but I should probably just order soon.


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## Sickmak90 (May 27, 2012)

There is a 20% off coupon right now. Which is why the price went up. Every time they have a "sale" the price of the SS goes up $50.


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## PDXDrew (Mar 1, 2008)

ah, didnt even notice! still works out I suppose... not a huge savings but oh well. I'm going to order a 17" later tonight.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

stackwalker said:


> Yeah the minimum plus an inch - If I had it to do over again I'd probably have gotten the 400mm post, but they didn't have an inexpensive one in stock and I wanted to ride!


Hi Stackwalker, do you remember what the thickness of the seatpost is?


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

it's a 27.2 seatpost


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

stackwalker said:


> it's a 27.2 seatpost


Thanks!


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## Devilducky (Jul 14, 2012)

Just got mine a couple weeks ago. I was pleasantly surprised by the components slapped on at this price point and the pure value of this bike. I have been riding about 20 years now with all manner of styles and name brands, so I feel like I have a bit of experience to compare, but I must admit this is my first 29er and the reason I went cheap (in case it just wasn't for me.
I am 6', 32" inseam, 205lbs, and I now enjoy mostly XC MTB riding.
I got the 19" frame and it fits perfect. It weighs 27.2 pounds stock out the box. Not exactly a lightweight, but decent for East Coast XC/Mountain.
I thought I would give a price breakdown of the "named" components on the bike instead of weights because fun and value are more important for this bike than getting/making a featherweight xc racer. If I don't mention a part it is because it is a non branded no name part. I got all prices from amazon minus shipping rounded to nearest dollar.
Gravity Gap 32 tooth cranks with polycarbonate bash guard--156$
FSA Megaexo EBB--42$
Tektro IO mechanical disc brakes--96$ for both including rotors and calipers
WTB Nano2.1 60tpi XC 104$ for both
Alex DM18 36 hole rims 54$ for both
VP-A41AC cane creek intergarted headset. 11$
Velo MTB saddle--8$
Wellgo LU-981 pedals--25$
KMC Z chain 6$
Total =513$>much greater than what I spent on the bike.
The rest of the components are nameless so price can only be estimated.
The bike comes out the box set up as a SS but it has a rear cassette hub ready for shimano 8-9 speed, full cable routing for deraillers and v brakes if you wanna switch brakes, a rear derailler hanger/chain tensioner that I won't use for fear of destroying(saving it for if/when I switch to multispeed).
The bike handles well in tight singletrack, roots and rocks downhill, and sandy, rocky doubletrack. Uphill it is fine when you stick your butt on the nose of the saddle and pedal...unless it is loose pine needles or pebbles, th erear tire will spin on you...try lower pressure if you can or get a tire better suited to the terrain if you need to.
Overall a great value, fun ride, and room to grow.


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

Pick up some Redline tugs for $12. Thanks for the tip mitzikatzi!

Tensioning, getting the wheel straight and rotor in just the right position have never been easier. Well worth the money and a must-have addition to these bikes.


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## bocadeltoro (Jun 16, 2010)

*help with sizing on nashbar ss 29er calling 15 and 17 inch riders*

Sorry for kinda hijacking this threads. don't have enough posts to start new one. Anyhow nashbar is doing free shipping for the next coupla days so now is the time to strike for me.

trying to figure out sizing on these things. with only 1/10 of an inch difference between 15 and 17 in top tube length, this is important. First if i measure my inseam according to nashbar ( shoes on to crotch) i get 31 inches. normal proportions for height. I am only 5 foot 6 and generally ride around 17 inch frame. i also ride a medium c dale prophet. these bikes have a pretty low bb for a 29er and all the 15 inch 29ers i have seen look a little freakish. The guys on this forum are stating inseams that seem pretty short for a 5 9 to 5 11 guys. They seem like pant inseams? There was also a gentleman on this thread that bought a 17 for his wife just wondering how tall she was?
Bottom line any one here ride a 15 or 17 around my height with an equivalent inseam? I will call nashbar about stand over as they don't say in specs. Also are these tt lengths effective or actual? any help at all would be great especially from any 15 inch frame riders.


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## Devilducky (Jul 14, 2012)

31 inseam at 5'6" should make you just right for the 17. You may need a longer seat post than what it comes with, but you should be fine.


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## Devilducky (Jul 14, 2012)

PS. I know most recommend to measure inseam with shoes on but I did not. I haven't least two good inches of space from the top tube to my crotch and that is where I like it. You really only need 1-2 inches extra room for most single track.


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

If you comfortably ride a 17 from the mass produced - Trek/Giant/Cannondale etc... you should be fine on the 17". 15" bikes just look gooney...


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## bocadeltoro (Jun 16, 2010)

*sizing again*

thanks for that guys and 15 inch 29ers look goofy your right. devilducky how tall are you? what size are you riding? and how did you measure and what is your inseam?

Thanks


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## Devilducky (Jul 14, 2012)

I am just about 6', 32 inch inseam measure barefoot and to my sack. I know others say to measure with shoes on to actual inseam- at, and to the joining points between your legs- but I want clearance where it counts. 
With 31" inseam you seem long legged compared to me, even with shoes on. Either way, 17 should work great for your size. Standover height is very important when judging bike size because you can't really change that. Other sizing issues are changed with seatpost/ saddle height, crank length, and stem handlebar size and placement. Those are determined by not only your size but also your riding style and the terrain you will be riding on. Even with all those variable, you may adjust to fit your comfort level outside the sizing norms. 
Bottom line, get your standover height on a complete bike purchase and worry about the rest as you ride.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

I'm 5'10" with about a 31" inseam (pants inseam) and the 17" is good for me. Actually, there are some good posts in other threads on this forum explaining that standover clearance is not the most important measurement, contrary to what most people usually think it is, for example:
http://forums.mtbr.com/beginners-corner/stand-over-general-bike-fit-800882.html

Cliff Notes version: 95% of the time you'll lean the bike slightly to one side and touch a foot (or toes) down; 4% of the time you're going forward (or over) where you're more worried about the stem than the top tube, and the 1% of the time you come down on the top tube hard enough to hurt an extra inch or so of clearance won't really matter (you'd keep moving down that inch anyhow).

I'm not saying to ignore standover, but don't let it be the only factor.


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## Devilducky (Jul 14, 2012)

I absolutely agree beginner, but my experience always starts with standover and adjusts all other parts from there. I just know that for me, standover is very relevant when searching for a proper fit... To start. Then I adjust the other variables accordingly. If that means swapping parts for comfort and/or performance then that is what it is.


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## bocadeltoro (Jun 16, 2010)

Thanks guys- I ordered the 17, my gut tells me its tall as far as stand over goes, but i can always sell it if it does not work. The odd thing which i don't quite understand is why ett is almost identical on these bikes. that's what makes this an difficult choice, most frame changes add at least 1/2 -3/4 of an inch to top tube length. I am not sure why nashbar does not have stand over published. I agree ett is super important but stand over can not be adjusted and slapping your bag against the top tube repeatedly is a deal breaker for me. Both the 15 and 17 have exact top tube length i use now. I ride a 16.5 independent ht and a medium c dale prophet. 30 inch inseam with shoes off 31 shoes on. so who knows. I am not long legged by any means and i am amazed at close to 6 foot guys are riding 17"s. I ride 53 road and as formulas suggest subtract 10 12 mm for mtb puts me around 16.5 which is a lot closer to 17 than it is to 15 Why doesn't nashbar just print stand over ? This would be a non issue. Anyhow i will post my results for those who are wondering. Tell you what though I really don't have that much of an interest in 29ers ,ss yes. Personally one of these in 650 b would be the cats ass. That"s the perfect size

Thanks for the input. This thing sounds like a blast.


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## FlyBye (May 26, 2012)

I realize that there is a huge advantage in being able to change your gear ratio while rolling to give both your legs and lungs an edge over the rascal behind you that is growing weary of eating your dust... but I am beginning to like this Mtn Single Speed stuff! Often times a bit slower, but a lot more fun and challenging!

Road Trip to Syllamo last week. The rigid Nashbar SS rode fine!


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## bocadeltoro (Jun 16, 2010)

*nashbar initial impressions*

ok- just received the nashbar29er ss. Packaging- very good. fit and finish- very good, bang for buck remarkable. ease of assembly- 1-10 1 easy 10 less so. 2-3. fit for me. 5'6" 30.5 inseam.
will work with flip stem, seat almost all the way forward. could use a tad more stand over but between a 15 and 17 my guess is because the top tube would start 2 inches lower and wind up in the same spot, the angle would have to be so acute you might get 1/2 more- max. I could be wrong as i don't have a 15 to look at but the head tube could only be maybe 1/4 shorter and i doubt it is. So you might get if your lucky 1/2 more stand over. and a very goofy looking bike. And the ett on each of these is only 1/10 of a inch different. and at about 22.6 and 22.7 inches you would have to be real short too have it to long. It has a set back seat post and flip flop stem with about 1 inch of shims. Its late and dark so i only drove it down the street but it works sweet, and rides nice. totally happy with what it is. But and this is based on only my experience which is very limited. A 29er is really not the best choice for a shorter person (at least me) its just large because of the height necessary to clear those large hoops. Since the frame is suspension correct it is high up front And that's the way it needs to be. I will ride it. I will enjoy it. But for me i think a 650b single speed would be perfect. Bottom line if you are say 5' 9" and up or built like a baboon and want a 29er this is an amazing deal. Just buy it.........period you will not be disappointed. If you are shorter whether a 15 or 17, i would look at 650b or 26 inch bikes.

Just my opinion, pretty much as i expected but these things are better quality than i expected. Welds are clean, paint is good, components are good, some are very good. weight is reasonable. I will take it out and thrash it. As i get some more time with this I will add updates......if anyone cares
Giddyup


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## agraves617 (Jul 24, 2012)

The 20% off sale is back. Funny how they jack the price of the bike $50 during the sail, but I digress.

Does anyone know the make/model of the crankset on these bad boys? I thought I saw it in this thread before, but I can't seem to locate it now. I am under the impression that it's a decent crank set for the price. I'd appreciate any help.


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## Devilducky (Jul 14, 2012)

From previous post...

Just got mine a couple weeks ago. I was pleasantly surprised by the components slapped on at this price point and the pure value of this bike. I have been riding about 20 years now with all manner of styles and name brands, so I feel like I have a bit of experience to compare, but I must admit this is my first 29er and the reason I went cheap (in case it just wasn't for me.
I am 6', 32" inseam, 205lbs, and I now enjoy mostly XC MTB riding.
I got the 19" frame and it fits perfect. It weighs 27.2 pounds stock out the box. Not exactly a lightweight, but decent for East Coast XC/Mountain.
I thought I would give a price breakdown of the "named" components on the bike instead of weights because fun and value are more important for this bike than getting/making a featherweight xc racer. If I don't mention a part it is because it is a non branded no name part. I got all prices from amazon minus shipping rounded to nearest dollar.
Gravity Gap 32 tooth cranks with polycarbonate bash guard--156$
FSA Megaexo EBB--42$
Tektro IO mechanical disc brakes--96$ for both including rotors and calipers
WTB Nano2.1 60tpi XC 104$ for both
Alex DM18 36 hole rims 54$ for both
VP-A41AC cane creek intergarted headset. 11$
Velo MTB saddle--8$
Wellgo LU-981 pedals--25$
KMC Z chain 6$
Total =513$>much greater than what I spent on the bike.
The rest of the components are nameless so price can only be estimated.
The bike comes out the box set up as a SS but it has a rear cassette hub ready for shimano 8-9 speed, full cable routing for deraillers and v brakes if you wanna switch brakes, a rear derailler hanger/chain tensioner that I won't use for fear of destroying(saving it for if/when I switch to multispeed).
The bike handles well in tight singletrack, roots and rocks downhill, and sandy, rocky doubletrack. Uphill it is fine when you stick your butt on the nose of the saddle and pedal...unless it is loose pine needles or pebbles, th erear tire will spin on you...try lower pressure if you can or get a tire better suited to the terrain if you need to.
Overall a great value, fun ride, and room to grow.


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## BIGABIGD (Jul 24, 2012)

*A Bad Bad machine awaits you*

I've had my Nashbar SS 29ER for 3 months now.
I am 6'1 and weigh 267 lbs, so you know this thing has gotta be pretty stout for it to hold up to my aging and advanced tonnage. I rode the bike stock for about a month and loved it, but realized it needed to be upgraded in several areas.

I have the 21 inch model, and find its perfectly sized for me, although it is a bit tall up front ... This may be changed soon with my new CF fork. .. He heh.

Stock out of the box its a great and smooth bike. The SS drive train is an ethereal experience in action. The way that power gets transmitted to the rear wheel is just so much more efficient than a regular 27 speed geared bike, that after a short while, you don't miss not having gears. However, in the flat area I live in, the 18T cog was too low to get maximum thrust so I went to a 14T cog. If you're not in a flat area, or don't have real strong legs, this may be too high a gear for you. For me, its perfect. I can even make it up most medium steep hills with it while standing on the pedals.

Now to the upgrades I've made:
• Bicycle Wheel Warehouse Pure 29 wheels with XT hubs
• Nashbar carbon seatpost 
• Nashbar carbon handlebar - cannibalized from another bike
• BBG drilled aluminum bash guard.
• Surly tuggnut chain tensioner (on the way)
• Rav-X shorty bar ends
• Flybikes platform pedals 
• BBB 90mm stem
• Serfa silicon grips

What these upgrades have done is made this bike FLY! This machine is almost as fast as my Cannondale road bike, and definitely faster than my FS K2. I can clip at 16-18 mph on the road , when I'm not being lazy. And my GF can't even come close to keeping up with me on her POS Trek mtn bike. The wheels and hubs are lighter and faster than the stock wheels, and the carbon post and handlebar smooth the ride tremendously.

So for the initial $400, plus the addition of about three Ben Franklin's, I now have a machine worthy of any trail or road...and Yes, this thing is plenty capable on dirt. It climbs, rolls, and handles great , and the carbon bar and post diminish the shocks, even when rolling over logs and tree roots.

I will post a few pics later today of this bad-a## machine.


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## BIGABIGD (Jul 24, 2012)

Ohh, and I almost forgot. The talk about people saying that a QR wheel in the rear won't work is a load of hooey. My new BBW wheels are std QR and they stay where they're supposed to. however, I made sure I got XT hubs and skewers as I've read that the Shimano skewers have better clamping power than most other stock axles. 

Also, being close to 270 lbs, I am pretty certain that for regular sized guy/girl, they will work as well... Although I am adding a Surly tuggnut just to make sure .


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

BIGABIGD said:


> I...snip,,,,,, However, in the flat area I live in, the 18T cog was too low to get maximum thrust so I went to a 14T cog





Surly said:


> One tooth makes a huge difference out back with regards to preventing skippage. Wear life, too, is improved with more teeth. Since you never leave that gear, every mile you spin is on the same few teeth. Your drivetrain will last longer and will skip less and will launch the chain fewer times if you use larger cogs and chainrings. I recommend that you pick a big cog out back (18 teeth or larger) and experiment to find a gear ratio you like by varying your chainring sizes up front.


from here


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## BIGABIGD (Jul 24, 2012)

I like my gears just the way they are, and I have no skippage. And when my 14T cog wears out , $20 will get me a new one. Thanks for the tip though.


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## BIGABIGD (Jul 24, 2012)

*Picture of my Nashbar SS 29er*

Red BWW wheels - Carbon post and bar - BBG drilled aluminum bash guard


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## BIGABIGD (Jul 24, 2012)

*Surly Tuggnut*

Here is a picture of my Surly Tuggnut chain tensioner. This is a beautiful piece of machined stainless and I am certain it will keep my wheel where it belongs.


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## BIGABIGD (Jul 24, 2012)

I just installed my new Black Ops carbon fork.... very nice. It took 1.5 lbs off of the bike. Its now under 25 lbs.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

Very nice! I've been looking at those too -- I'll be curious to hear how the handling compares with the original fork.


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## BIGABIGD (Jul 24, 2012)

Yes I will be curious as well. I have ridden it a few times on the road in the last week and the fork appears to smooth out the bumps and the ride in general, but I don't think you can learn much from a road ride. I will know more this w/e when I hit the dirt in Baton Rouge... and the tree roots.... the roots and ruts will tell all.


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

goalie said:


> I searched the Nashbar site for hanger etc and didn't see them, hence the question. Do they have them in the actual stores or something?


I finally found my hanger. Here is a pic


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## BIGABIGD (Jul 24, 2012)

this hanger comes with this bike.


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

*Any coupon codes now?*

Just wondered if there is another working code!


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

BIGABIGD said:


> I just installed my new Black Ops carbon fork.... very nice. It took 1.5 lbs off of the bike. Its now under 25 lbs.


This can no longer be called a Nashbar 29er! 

Nice adds!


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## Ablaydes (Aug 11, 2012)

Hey guys So I'm pretty much dead set on this bein my next single speed, and this might be a noob question, it's been awhile for me since I've rode or had anything to do with mountain biking.....My questions are 

Can the fork be swapped for a 100mm fox or rock shox suspension fork ?

Can the Disc brakes be upgraded to say Avid 160-180mm BB5's or BB7's ?

And are these 2 upgrades relatively simple swap's ?


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

..snip..

Can the fork be swapped for a 100mm fox or rock shox suspension fork ? Yes the fork can be changed for a suspension fork. I would only fit an 80mm travel fork. ymmv

Can the Disc brakes be upgraded to say Avid 160-180mm BB5's or BB7's ? Yes

And are these 2 upgrades relatively simple swap's ? Yes


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## MetaOrbit (Jun 28, 2009)

mitzikatzi said:


> ..snip..
> 
> Can the fork be swapped for a 100mm fox or rock shox suspension fork ? Yes the fork can be changed for a suspension fork. I would only fit an 80mm travel fork. ymmv
> 
> ...


Just curious...why only 80mm?


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## Ablaydes (Aug 11, 2012)

mitzikatzi said:


> ..snip..
> 
> Can the fork be swapped for a 100mm fox or rock shox suspension fork ? Yes the fork can be changed for a suspension fork. I would only fit an 80mm travel fork. ymmv
> 
> ...


X2 on why only a 80mm fork, I've been looking at Fox and Rock Shox's forks and in a 29er fork I could only find a 100mm that was in the price range for my budget.Any suggestions ?


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## sbmtb (Jun 21, 2008)

Has anybody worked on the the rear hub on these bikes? Is it worth taking them part or just buy new ones. I have some side movement in mine.


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## Sickmak90 (May 27, 2012)

I think I am going to buy one of these soon and convert it to a 1x9.


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## FlyBye (May 26, 2012)

sbmtb said:


> Has anybody worked on the the rear hub on these bikes? Is it worth taking them part or just buy new ones. I have some side movement in mine.


Same thought, though I don't have any side movement in the hub... mine just feels dry, but I would like to do some repairs/swap outs on the bike but I don't exactly which tools and size to get for the Nashbar 29er SS. Any help from those who know would be appreciated.

1) What size Park Cone Wrench to over-haul the hubs?

2) What Park tools are needed to take off and over-haul the bottom bracket?

3) What Park tool(s) are needed to take off/replace the rear cog?


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

FlyBye said:


> Same thought, though I don't have any side movement in the hub... mine just feels dry, but I would like to do some repairs/swap outs on the bike but I don't exactly which tools and size to get for the Nashbar 29er SS. Any help from those who know would be appreciated.
> 
> 1) What size Park Cone Wrench to over-haul the hubs?
> 
> ...


cartridge bottom brackets service

repair-help/bottom-bracket-tool-selection

crank-installation-and-removal-square-spindle-type

hub-overhaul-and-adjustment

Pedros-Trixie-Tool

You don't "overhaul" sealed bottom bracket bearings you replace them.


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

MetaOrbit said:


> Just curious...why only 80mm?


More isn't necessarily better. 100mm isn't always better than a 80mm fork. It depends on the frame design.

A 80mm fork at "sag" will be longer than you rigid fork. about 0.5 inch
A 100mm fork is longer again. This has the effect of making the head angle slacker. More like a chopper. Your Stout's geometry is very much like my Monocog. I wouldn't what to fit a longer fork to it. It would make the steering even slower.

Many do fit 100mm forks to Stouts/Monocogs etc and are happy with them. I just wouldn't. The frame was designed around a "80mm type fork"

A longer fork will also make the bars higher again. Some people like to ride in the "sit up and beg" position i don't. I like my bars lower than my seat. YMMV


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## FlyBye (May 26, 2012)

Those who might be on the fence regarding the Nashbar 29er SS... You can get it on sale today (15 hours only) *$ 320*

Nashbar's 20% off the lowest price listed. It's good for today until Mid-Night. They run the sale off and on every now and then, but I sure do hate to miss it when I need a few items... _(Coupon Code: 34844)_

Nashbar Single-Speed 29er Mountain Bike - Twenty Niner

Hope it helps,
FlyBye


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

Off to the paintshop tomorrow....


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Are you not taking the crankset or chain off?


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

Yeah I'll get em painted too 

I don't have the tools to pull the cranks.. so I'm just having a buddy pull them for me


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

No more GOLD!!


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

Looks good!


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## JDYMTB (Aug 20, 2012)

Loving the blue. Nashbar should take a lesson in color selection!


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

I actually intended on getting more of a baby blue, but the powder coat guy had this color as the closest without having to pay extra for custom so I went with it. I really love the color far more than what I had in mind originally.

FYI bare frame is almost exactly 5 lbs. If I think of it I want to weigh the fork as well.

Got a 2nd hand Bontrager SSR wheelset for free that's going on in place of the cheap a$$ alex wheels that it came with.

Some other things I learned about the bike after tearing it down completely is that one might want to replace the lower guide ring on the headset. It's plastic and technically what keeps your fork centered within the cups. I wound up buying a Cane Creek 40 series to drop in here to mitigate. It has the sealed bearings and the aluminum guide ring for more strength. It is a rigid after all...

The frame itself is pretty solid. One could make a really respectable bike out of this if you can get a nice used wheelset. The crankset is heavy but decent. The bottom bracket is a cheap POS but an easy/cheap upgrade.


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## FlyBye (May 26, 2012)

Looks nice! Can't wait to see what it will look like built up. I'm contemplating painting mine next year and it's nice to see what others have done to theirs.


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

Yes, please, weigh that fork! I'd love to know what it weighs, but haven't taken mine off.


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

Well here she is re assembled! I wasn't able to replace the headset because I guess it's a 44 mm headtube??? Also have to reinstall the bash guard, or get some spacers as I think my chainline is now off with the bash guard gone. I really don't like the way they look tho.

Love the way she turned out...

Next up is new bar/grips,
new brake levers,
maybe upgrade to bb7s if I can scrape together the cash....


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## FlyBye (May 26, 2012)

stackwalker said:


> have to reinstall the bash guard, or get some spacers as I think my chainline is now off with the bash guard gone.


I think all you need is a thinner chainring nut. When I took the bash guard off mine I had the same problem. I put mine back on until I can get some that are not as wide.

Bike looks nice!


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## akaHector (Apr 30, 2012)

Hey, Stackwalker! Nice looking bike, man! Since you've been riding this beast, have you found anything that you HAD to replace or fix, or seemed cheap and needed immediate upgrade? Sounds like nothing but positive reviews on these Nashbar SS's.


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## FlyBye (May 26, 2012)

akaHector said:


> ...have you found anything that you HAD to replace or fix, or seemed cheap and needed immediate upgrade? Sounds like nothing but positive reviews on these Nashbar SS's.


Quick response before "stackwalker" chimes in...

There have been and are some concerns that might need addressing depending on how rough you might be on the bike... The link below is in reference to the Bottom Bracket. I recently noticed some "clicking" from the BB area. After inspecting, I noticed that there were a lot of metal shavings loose inside....

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/bottom-bracket-mystery-810553.html?

I still am happy with the bike for the price I got it at. At the time I got it, I had just got rid of pretty nice Cannondale and really wanted to replace it with a smaller frame size but the LBS didn't have the correct size... Yada, yada, yada... Anyway, I considered a SS as a backup but didn't want to spend a lot without knowing if I would like it or not. After getting the Nashbar 29er SS, I decided to stay with the SS and not get another geared mtn bike anytime soon.

I have upgraded several items that others may or may not feel the need or have the desire to do so. I have been pleased that the rims have held their shape and trueness thus far even though I do plan to upgrade them eventually.


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

I will say that having put a 180mm BB7 on the front and a 160 BB7 on the back, it's made a huge difference in how far I'm willing to push the bike into turns. Other than changing the front tire (2.3 ExiWolf) and putting locking grips on it, I haven't had to do anything to this bike other than true the wheels a few times, but I've had very expensive wheels that needed truing after going through stuff like these wheels have seen.


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

FlyBye said:


> I think all you need is a thinner chainring nut. When I took the bash guard off mine I had the same problem. I put mine back on until I can get some that are not as wide.
> 
> Bike looks nice!


I got the smaller chainring bolts already... There's some odd torsion happenning when I spin the cranks... I think the spring in the skewers might have slipped in there. After thinking about it the chain line wouldn't be off from removing the bash guard since the front chainring didn't change position.


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

akaHector said:


> Hey, Stackwalker! Nice looking bike, man! Since you've been riding this beast, have you found anything that you HAD to replace or fix, or seemed cheap and needed immediate upgrade? Sounds like nothing but positive reviews on these Nashbar SS's.


Nothing that HAD to be replaced. I rode it stock for a couple weeks.. and I ride a lot. No complaints of the bike for the price. I've gotten sucked into the spiral of upgrading now just for the fun of it. I don't have the money for an expensive frame and my geared bike upgrades provides a nice stream of hand-me-downs for this one.

Bottom line though - this bike is absolutely ride-able and enjoyable just as it comes.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I have been watching this bike closely and it has fluctuated $100 in price twice this week from $350 to $450. I say it last night and it was at $375. 
Overnigjt I recieved a 20% off code from Nashbar in my email so I went to check the bike and it was $450 again. 

Wtf!?!?!?


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

The price varies a lot because of the specials they run. They were running 20% off and they raised it to $425 when I bought mine. I think the bike is well bought for $350, though you'll have to pay tax and shipping on top of that.


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## FlyBye (May 26, 2012)

Any Nashbar 29er SS owners that have retired their rigid fork and upgraded to suspension? I didn't want to consider suspension forks until I rode the rigid one that came with the bike... that is until today.

Tried to keep up with some fella's on full suspension & full geared bikes today over some trails that was blessed with plenty of roots. I couldn't keep the bike on the ground over certain areas. They were able to carry their energy through the paths instead of bouncing all around. I did have 62 psi in the tires in an attempt to save the rims. I generally run 60 psi and find that has worked fine for most of the trails I explore.

Anyway, I would like to hear from those who have explored suspension on this frame. I'm considering the Roxx Shock Recon & Reba, but am clueless on 9mm or 15 mm dropout option. Insights welcomed!


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

60 to 62 PSI is a lot of air pressure in a tire. 

I assume you have 2 to 2.25 wide tires. depending on your weight 40 to 45 PSI is most likely enough.

I just looked at 29er tire. It has 30 to 50 PSI on the sidewall (2.20 Nevegal)


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

FlyBye said:


> .snip... I'm considering the Roxx Shock Recon & Reba, but am clueless on 9mm or 15 mm dropout option. Insights welcomed!


15mm maxles require special hubs.

Mostly 9mm qr hubs are not convertible to 15mm. 
Some are like Hope hubs for example.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

You shouldn't be running at or above the max 60 psi, but really should be around 30 psi -- give or take about 5 psi depending on your weight. That should help a lot with the bouncing.


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

Yep, I run my 2.3 on the front at 29 psi and my 2.1 on the rear at 31, and I weigh 205. I've never had full squish bikes run away from me because of roots, and we have plenty of roots on the trails I usually ride. As for the rims, I've pinch flatted and cut the tires down in rock gardens on occasion but there's nothing wrong with my rims. Running the pressures I do, I hit the rims sometimes without doing it hard enough to pinch flat, and that certainly has has no effect on the rims, so I don't think you need to be so protective of them.


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## FlyBye (May 26, 2012)

I am running WTB Nano 2.1 on both front and back _(came with the bike). _The max psi is shown as 65 psi with the range listed as 35-65 psi. I may tone it down to 50 psi and see what happens.



FlyBye said:


> Any Nashbar 29er SS owners that have retired their rigid fork and upgraded to suspension?... ...I would like to hear from those who have explored suspension on this frame. I'm considering the Roxx Shock Recon & Reba... Insights welcomed!


Any suspension forks tried on the Nash 29er?


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## jonathan creason (Jun 26, 2012)

I'm leaning real hard in this direction as my introduction to the SS 29er cult. Have been thinking seriously about a Monocog, but I'd save enough going this route to make it worthwhile for me. Would be nice to have a steel frame, though. 

For those that have rode both is there enough difference to justify one over the other?


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

FlyBye said:


> I am running WTB Nano 2.1 on both front and back _(came with the bike). _The max psi is shown as 65 psi with the range listed as 35-65 psi. I may tone it down to 50 psi and see what happens.


I weigh around 250 and used to be a bit skeptical about running less than the maximum on my tires. However, after reading a lot about tire pressure I started toning it down and now don't run more than 35 psi on the same WTB Nano tires you have, over rocky and rooty trails. So, don't be afraid to take it down and get better traction and less bouncing.



jonathan creason said:


> Have been thinking seriously about a Monocog, but I'd save enough going this route to make it worthwhile for me. Would be nice to have a steel frame, though. For those that have rode both is there enough difference to justify one over the other?


I haven't ridden a Monocog, but I did a good bit of riding on a steel-framed SE Stout in 2011. When I decided to buy a SS 29er this year the steel SE Stouts were discontinued, and to me there was not enough difference to justify spending hundreds more for a steel-framed bike like the Monocog or Peace. The Nashbar's steel fork helps, and the frame being a little lighter is nice.


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

I'd stay rigid - you get double bad-ass cred. Not only do you ride with one gear, you ride with no suspension. 

I've found on the rocky/rooty stuff, if you lift your body weight over the more pronounced trail protrusions, you can get over them without all the bouncing around almost like you had front suspension. Between your knees, LOWER TIRE PRESSURE, loose elbows, and body weight control you should be able to clean that stuff as fast as anyone. There's always the unexpected/unseen rock/root that you hit wrong and your hands are numb for 20 minutes.. but it's part of the fun.

Seriously - 60 psi is WAY too high no matter how heavy you are. I'm a tad under 200 and I ride @ 28-30 psi in front and 30-32 out back. If I know I'll be road riding I'll put em up closer to 40, but that almost never happens.

Oh yeah - you wanted to know about a good fork right? :madman:

I run the Reba on my shifty and it's a great fork. One of the ligther ones around too...


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

Im 212lbs and only run 30lbs pressure in my tires. I have the stock 2.1s. Never had one tire issue. I live in Asheville and have ridden my SS all over Pisgah,DuPont,& Bent Creek. I wouldn't go over 35lbs.


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## baldiesrt (Sep 7, 2012)

Love this thread, learned a lot about the nash 29er. Am going to wait till it goes down in price, no rush. Please post if you guys see it cheap! 

Btw, what is the chain tensioner for? Never had a MTB. Looks like it just prevents the wheel from coming in towards the frame. But when you tighten the bolts wont it just stay there till the next time you loosen it?

Thanks


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

baldiesrt said:


> Love this thread, learned a lot about the nash 29er. Am going to wait till it goes down in price, no rush. Please post if you guys see it cheap!
> 
> Btw, what is the chain tensioner for? Never had a MTB. Looks like it just prevents the wheel from coming in towards the frame. But when you tighten the bolts wont it just stay there till the next time you loosen it?
> 
> Thanks


Chain tensioners aren't nessissary for bikes with horizontal stays. Example: a bmx bike has horizontal stays. You can pull wheel back and tighten chain. Most Mtn bikes are fixed position and need tensioner to keep chain tight,no back and forth adjustment.. Nashbar 29er has horizontal stays and tensioner isnt nessissary.


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## baldiesrt (Sep 7, 2012)

Muxherdlr said:


> Chain tensioners aren't nessissary for bikes with horizontal stays. Example: a bmx bike has horizontal stays. You can pull wheel back and tighten chain. Most Mtn bikes are fixed position and need tensioner to keep chain tight,no back and forth adjustment.. Nashbar 29er has horizontal stays and tensioner isnt nessissary.


thanks for the info. just saved me $12 from ordering it


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

baldiesrt said:


> Love this thread, learned a lot about the nash 29er. Am going to wait till it goes down in price, no rush. Please post if you guys see it cheap!
> 
> Btw, what is the chain tensioner for? Never had a MTB. Looks like it just prevents the wheel from coming in towards the frame. But when you tighten the bolts wont it just stay there till the next time you loosen it?
> 
> Thanks


Do you mean a "chain tensioner" or a "chain tug"










chain tugs do stop the wheel moving forward. Single speed axles are under a lot more stress than a geared bike. They also make centering the wheel easier. There are many other brands. I use one.


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## baldiesrt (Sep 7, 2012)

mitzikatzi said:


> Do you mean a "chain tensioner" or a "chain tug"
> 
> chain tugs do stop the wheel moving forward. Single speed axles are under a lot more stress than a geared bike. They also make centering the wheel easier. There are many other brands. I use one.


Would I need this if I am just using this on city streets. No trails.


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

baldiesrt said:


> Would I need this if I am just using this on city streets. No trails.


Most likely no. If you start "standing" on the pedals and the wheel moves then yes you might need one. I have one and I am happy with it. If you are on a tight budget you can live without them.


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

mitzikatzi said:


> Most likely no. If you start "standing" on the pedals and the wheel moves then yes you might need one. I have one and I am happy with it. If you are on a tight budget you can live without them.


I have one on both sides, referred by mitzikatzi to the redline tugs. They work great for getting your wheel alignment just right. When I take off my rear wheel and leave the tug adjustment screws in the same spot, the disc brake aligns perfectly when I pop the wheel back on. Plus, if you use quick release wheels, the tugs keep your wheel from sliding forward since the skewer cap screws don't seem to be able to lock down tight enough to keep it in place during serious mashing.


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## Click Click Boom (Oct 23, 2008)

The Performance bike in Houston on FM 1960 has some of the Nashbar 29er single speeds on there sales floor.


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## 28282828 (Sep 16, 2012)

Anybody had any success putting fenders on their Nashbar SS 29er? What's the tire clearance like? Fender mounts? Workarounds?

What would be the options, in this regard?


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

Fenders? For this bike? Get a three liter soda bottle, cut it roughly in half, line it up how you want it, trim to fit, punch some holes in it, and break out the zip ties. Cheap, easy to mount, no hassle removal, and recyclable to boot.


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## 28282828 (Sep 16, 2012)

Cotharyus said:


> Fenders? For this bike? Get a three liter soda bottle, cut it roughly in half, line it up how you want it, trim to fit, punch some holes in it, and break out the zip ties. Cheap, easy to mount, no hassle removal, and recyclable to boot.


You realize that there are production fenders that'll easily accommodate the tire, right? Planet Bike makes the _Cascadia 29er_, for instance

I'm asking if this fork/frame has clearance or mounts for them, or if they can be made with little hassle.

(Oh, and ABS is recyclable, too, if that's your thing...)


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## 28282828 (Sep 16, 2012)

*Complete Frame Geometry and Standover for NB SS 29er*

Oh, and for the many people way far upthread who were asking about sizing and standover and such.

I tracked down the frame geometry from the 2008 SE Stout (which many people have theorized that the NB SS 29er is cloned from). The original page is 404ed, but the _Wayback Machine_ saved the text at least:
_
(Well, it won't let me post the link; but if you type goo.gl and then a slash and then the string "OijSq" [without quotation marks] it will take you to the archived page.)_

Here's the Stout Geometry as listed on the Stout website (sorry for any jacked-up formatting):

*SE STOUT 2008*
_Geometry_
Seat Tube Length 15" 17" 19" 21"
Actual Top Tube Length 22.6" 22.7" 23.4" 24.25"
Effective Top Tube 23.1" 23.7" 24.5" 25.2"
Head Tube Angle 71° 72° 72° 72°
Seat Tube Angle 74° 73° 73° 73°
Chainstays 17.7" 17.7" 17.7" 17.7"
BB height 11.9" 11.9" 11.9" 11.9"
Wheelbase 42.9" 42.5" 43.2" 44.0"
Fork Rake 39 39 39 39
Headtube 110 110 120 120
Standover 29.8" 30.9" 32.0" 32.8"

They match up, where applicable, to the (very limited) Nashbar specs.

Posting it here so that hopefully nobody has to go on the same wild-goose chase to find them that I did (no thanks to NB).


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

28282828 said:


> You realize that there are production fenders that'll easily accommodate the tire, right? Planet Bike makes the _Cascadia 29er_, for instance
> 
> I'm asking if this fork/frame has clearance or mounts for them, or if they can be made with little hassle.
> 
> (Oh, and ABS is recyclable, too, if that's your thing...)


Yes, I realize all of the above. And there's plenty of room for them. And I'm sure that the same universal mounts that work on any other bike will work on this. My point was, there's simply no need to pay for fenders. Especially on this bike.


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## KylesCog (Sep 25, 2012)

*Nashbar build and rear wheel choices*

The front wheel is a Velocity p35 with WTB Exiwolf rubber. I'm a huge fan of that rim. The extra width gives the tire an even greater contact patch on the ground and makes it fairly stiff but its not too heavy. The rear wheel is and has lasted a long time. 3 yrs, or so of pretty heavy usage. The front wheel bent a year ago. The rest of the build is an Easton Havoc seatpost, WTB Silverado saddle, Easton EC70 MonkeyLite bars and ODI Rogue grips. Anything I didn't mention is stock. Or I forgot.

I'm running it as a fixie right now using a Tomicog that bolts onto the disc side of the hub. Really neat product.

I think it is time for a new rear wheel. Have not decided what to do yet.

Hub: Woodman Bill. 
Spokes and Nipples: DT Swiss Butted something or other. LBS mechanic picked them.
Rim: Now here is where I am still thinking. Since the Nash-tastic 29er has bosses for Canti brakes, I thought about possibly getting something like the WTB Dual Duty and switching to a Rim brake in the back so I can keep the Tomicog on there and flip-flop the wheel. The other option is to use somthing like the Velocity Blunt and running a disk brake. Then I could use the stock wheel for fixed riding by switching the wheels. A 3rd place option is to just buy a Bontrager wheel the LBS has off of a GF Rig, but then I'd have to think about chain tensioners and QR skewers.

Just wanted to talk about my Nashbar 29er. Later, Guys.


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

Anybody running BB5s on their nashy? I picked up a set off CL for dirt cheap, with nice levers! I put them on tonight and I just can't get them to center up. I one-finger brake so I need the brakes to grab early in the pull. I think I may have to shim the caliper a bit or something. Anybody else have luck with the BB5s? I think the BB7's have both inside and outside pad adjustments so it's not as much of an issue...


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

A Foolproof Method for Adjusting Avid BB5 Disc Brakes


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## HeyitsDave (Jul 20, 2009)

BB5 sucks balls and for just the reason you found. The Tektro you removed is a much better mechanical brake even though all the mountain bike know it alls will say otherwise.


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

I'm going to give it a good go this weekend and try to get them centered up. They seem to grab a little better than the tektros that came with it... but I had a much easier time getting the teks adjusted correctly. If I can't get em going, maybe I'll re-sell and go for the bb7's.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

HeyitsDave said:


> BB5 sucks balls and for just the reason you found. The Tektro you removed is a much better mechanical brake even though all the mountain bike know it alls will say otherwise.


BB5s just don't stop good imo, have a very small contact area on the disc, and the one pad adjustment is kind a hassle. BB7s are the way to go if you want mechanical brakse.


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## damien1350 (Aug 19, 2011)

I'm seriously considering this bike, but I see that the price fluctuates a lot apparently. It's 450 now, but so do you guys think I should wait it out until it drops again?


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## damien1350 (Aug 19, 2011)

Does anyone know what shipping runs on this?


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

damien1350 said:


> Does anyone know what shipping runs on this?


Depends on where you're at... I think it was around 40$ to Boise, ID

I picked up mine on a 20% off deal and got it for $330 + tax + shipping. I'd wait for another deal to pop up. They run them often


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

So, does anyone know, off the tops of their heads, what Stans No Tubes kit works on the stock rims for this bike? I searched the thread for stans, but it came up with no results. Figured it might be good information to have here, in addition to helpful for me right now


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## damien1350 (Aug 19, 2011)

Price dropped to $399

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Up to $449.99...about a week ago, but they emailed me a 20% off coupon yesterday....about $430 shipped to my door....hmmmm.....what to do...


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## damien1350 (Aug 19, 2011)

Natedogz said:


> Up to $449.99...about a week ago, but they emailed me a 20% off coupon yesterday....about $430 shipped to my door....hmmmm.....what to do...


It was 399 w/ free shipping last month. I'm hoping they have a good sale on them at the end of the year.

Tapatalk'd


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

damien1350 said:


> It was 399 w/ free shipping last month. I'm hoping they have a good sale on them at the end of the year.
> 
> Tapatalk'd


Yes comes out to about same total price either way lol.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Stout SE or Nashbar 29er SS if you had the choice?


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

Natedogz said:


> Stout SE or Nashbar 29er SS if you had the choice?


Very close call -- for value, I'd say the Nashbar -- comes with disc brakes, while the Stout never did (though later models did have disc-ready hubs and tabs). The Nashbar frame is the same as the aluminum Stout frames. The 2011 steel Stout did ride quite nicely, though.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

So, Natedogz, did you end up getting a bike?


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Not yet, put the Stout SE 21" super secret sale at BD in my cart ($200 shipped!!!) and when I went to pay it was out of stock. I kinda like the nicer parts spec on the Nashbar anyways. Waiting for deal I can't refuse, got lots of other Christmas expenses now.


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## model worker (Dec 2, 2012)

Fyi the stock wheels on this rig are soo bad. I had to replace the front wheel after 1 month, Other than that its great.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

model worker said:


> Fyi the stock wheels on this rig are soo bad. I had to replace the front wheel after 1 month, Other than that its great.


I'm a heavy guy, and I haven't had any problems with the wheels -- haven't even had to true them. What happened to your front wheel?


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## model worker (Dec 2, 2012)

Um.. Well some riding happened, then it got so out of true after a particularly rough ride and I could not tighten the spokes on the side that I needed to in order to pull the bend out. They were already bottomed out/ overly tight from the initial build.

I put a new wheel on the front with and I can really feel how much stiffer the the new wheel is compared to the old one. I can kinda tell the difference from front to back in regards to stiffness. I managed after some struggle to set the new wheel up tubeless, I'm debating on whether to do the rear or just wait until it craps out and get a TLR wheel. 

The other upgrades I've done to this bike are a super short flat stem and flat bars with ergon bar ends, For climbing and xc I use clipless pedal but if the area is rowdy and technical I switch to cb platforms 

Anyways having lots of fun on it


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

I'm not a huge fan of the stock wheels, but that's because of what they weigh, not durability. I trued my wheels once after a few months of riding, and upped the tension on them a little then, and no problems since. I held onto the stockers as winter/bike path wheels, and had another set built for trails. The new set is two pounds lighter, and they're still considered a "trail" wheel set, I figured at my weight, the cross country light weight stuff was likely to be asking for problems long term.

Sadly, since the new wheels were finished, it's been too wet here to ride any single track, so I don't really know how they ride.


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## spanky-monkey (Jan 3, 2013)

Just a note to those looking to swap the fork out for a suspension fork: Make sure you get one with a lockout. With no gears hammering up a steep incline with a squishy front end isn't the best idea.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Go for remote lockout if you get some front squish


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## Greasedmonkey (Nov 16, 2012)

I just got one of these a few days ago. Been raining a lot here, so I havent been able to ride it. I just swapped on my BB7s from my other bike and was wondering about wheel choices. Both wheels are a BO type hub and Im new to SS mtbs and was wondering if I could get a wheel set with QR instead, as I cant find many bolt on ones I like. My other bike at the sun ringle black flags and would love to get a set for this one.


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

You can go QR on the front, but best to get a BO single speed hub for the back wheel. Of course, if you find some tensioners for the back wheel, maybe you could use QR there, but I wouldn't. That's just a personal thing.


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

Upgrades! I finally ditched the BB5's. They sucked about as much as everyone said if not more.. I got some BB7's off ebay with rotors for $96 for the pair. I also had an incident with the crappy cheap chainring flexing on me and shedding all the bolts in the middle of nowhere, so I bought the Surly chainring and 18t rear cog. Got it all put back together tonight and it's working great! The BB7's still need to break in, but they were much, MUCH easier to adjust.


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## Greasedmonkey (Nov 16, 2012)

Do you have a QR wheelset on there? How do you like the Redline Chain tensioners? I love my BB7s. Even more so now with the nokon housing.

Here is mine now.


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

Greasedmonkey said:


> Do you have a QR wheelset on there? How do you like the Redline Chain tensioners? I love my BB7s. Even more so now with the nokon housing.


Yeah I've got a set of Bontrager SSRs with QR on there. The tensioners were a necessity with the QR to keep the wheel from sliding in the track ends. The RedLine tensioners have been fine. I'm not crazy about what a pain in the arse it is to get the rear wheel off and on.. especially now that I have to carry a wrench in my pack just to change a flat.. but you'd have the same problem with any tensioner so for the price I'd say you can't beat the Redlines.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

For you guys who have changed the brakes -- do you know if 180's fit?


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## stackwalker (Jul 7, 2011)

BeginnerCycling said:


> For you guys who have changed the brakes -- do you know if 180's fit?


I'm pretty dumb when it comes to bikes, but I'm not sure why a 180 wouldn't fit, provided you had the right mounting adapters. In my experience as long as the mounting hardware is setup for the size rotor you have, you're all good. I'm not sure it has anything to do with the wheels/frame etc...

This is coming from a guy who effed up a simple rear deraulier adjustment today and had to take it to the shop so take it for what it's worth..


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## God's Favorite Bike (Dec 14, 2011)

stackwalker said:


> I'm pretty dumb when it comes to bikes, but I'm not sure why a 180 wouldn't fit, provided you had the right mounting adapters. In my experience as long as the mounting hardware is setup for the size rotor you have, you're all good. I'm not sure it has anything to do with the wheels/frame etc...
> 
> This is coming from a guy who effed up a simple rear deraulier adjustment today and had to take it to the shop so take it for what it's worth..


The disk diameter limitation of a frame is derived from clearance between disk and frame. Stand beside your bike on the disk side, look straight down at the rotor from the top, and you will see then where this sizing comes from. Too big a diameter rotor is going to be too close, or worse, into the frame. It just wont clear the frame where the chain stays and/or seat stays are formed/shaped.

Now you know..and knowing is half the battle...GO JOE! (insert G.I. Joe Action Hero music here)

Like so...now cut a piece of construction paper out to a 180mm circle and see if it clears. (FRACK!..lookit the dust on me Niner...I dont rides gears in winter LOL)


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

I couldn't tell you if 180's will fit on the back or not, but they will fit on the front.


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

I have 205s on mine,as long as you have correct adapters they will fit.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

Thanks for all of the replies! Honestly, I've been pleasantly surprised with the Tektro Ios that came with it (and I'm a Clyde), but I've been getting a touch of upgrade-itis lately.


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## 1-track-mind (Aug 11, 2005)

I have the itch to have a ss again. My on-one inbred frame (no fork) is sitting in the garage. Most everything else that was not single speed specific is on another bike.
Wondering if it would be cheaper just to buy the Nashbar bike rather than buying the components.


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

I'd say that depends on what you have laying around, and what you want. You could easily spend $500 on a set of wheels alone. That would make the Nashbar bike cheaper. Of course, I put a set of $500 wheels on my Nashbar SS, so ....


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## 1-track-mind (Aug 11, 2005)

Cotharyus said:


> I'd say that depends on what you have laying around, and what you want. You could easily spend $500 on a set of wheels alone. That would make the Nashbar bike cheaper. Of course, I put a set of $500 wheels on my Nashbar SS, so ....


Not much lying around, I switched everything over to a fs. Mine had front suspension, so I never experienced the feel of a rigid, but I loved it. Just wasn't in good enough shape to use it on trails with steep climbs. I'm starting to ride a lot more flowy, rolling stuff that would be perfect for a ss, so it would be nice to have both bikes.
What is the weight on these out of the box ?


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

I'm on a large frame, and I had changed my Tektro's out for BB7's but mine weighed 27lb 15oz with everything else except the front tire stock, I think. I know the weight is right, the "I think" is everything else stock. After the new wheelset it's right at 25lb 10oz. In terms of something usable, I think you might find it cheaper to buy the Nashbar bike. In terms of something you may ultimately feel better about, you may want to look at collecting some parts for your old frame. A friend of mine seems to constantly find great deals on nice parts on craigslist.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Tried to order this evening, but it wouldn't take my 20% off coupon code? :/


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## zarr (Feb 14, 2008)

Natedogz said:


> T and complain.ried to order this evening, but it wouldn't take my 20% off coupon code? :/


Customer service opens at 7am...if it still doesn't work ask and complain.They'll prolly give it to you.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Thanks Zarr, called and they took care of me!  Lady said that coupon codes are only good until EST.....I'm pacific time.

Looking back through this thread for the best direct fit chain tugs.... :thumbsup:


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

I believe these are the ones most people have recommended:
Redline Alloy Chain Tensioners 3/8, Pair


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

BeginnerCycling said:


> I believe these are the ones most people have recommended:
> Redline Alloy Chain Tensioners 3/8, Pair


I have the same adjusters and they work flawlessly


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## zarr (Feb 14, 2008)

Natedogz said:


> Thanks Zarr, called and they took care of me!  Lady said that coupon codes are only good until EST.....I'm pacific time.
> 
> Looking back through this thread for the best direct fit chain tugs.... :thumbsup:


Glad to hear that. Yeah, they give sometimes a coupla extra hours into the next morning to honor codes,sales, etc...glad you got what you wanted.
...Ride ON!!!


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

BeginnerCycling said:


> I believe these are the ones most people have recommended:
> Redline Alloy Chain Tensioners 3/8, Pair


Checking them out, thanks!



Muxherdlr said:


> I have the same adjusters and they work flawlessly


Thanks, iirc somebody had to cut thier chain tugs in half....

EDIT: My Redline chain pulls fit fine, no cutting needed.


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## Greasedmonkey (Nov 16, 2012)

BeginnerCycling said:


> I believe these are the ones most people have recommended:
> Redline Alloy Chain Tensioners 3/8, Pair


I have these, and they are awesome!


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Greasedmonkey said:


> I have these, and they are awesome!


Bought some yesterday and they look nice. Received my Nashbar 29er SS yesterday morning and it looks good! Doing a pre-ride check and lube teardown now. :thumbsup: I can't wait to ride it!


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Pic last night during pre-ride rebuild.  Going to put my Avid BB7 with Avid levers on instead of the Tektro stuff, but with the stock Nashbar rotors. I'll see how the stock saddle is, but I have new Specialized Henge Comp 143mm standing by in case. Specialized Bicycle Components Grips will be Lizard Skins Charger lock on grips...my current favorite. Gearing is stock for now, but my previous SS was 32x20 which is great on 29er for my trails, we'll see how it goes. Added Redline black anodized chain tugs and a black light weight bottle cage. Thinking about a small under saddle bag, I get tired of wearing Camelbak on shorter rides...need place for tube, multi-tool, spare master link, keys, etc....need place for pump too...hmmm....

Rode it around driveway last night without brakes just to see how it is and it's nice, glad I got the 20% off deal icing on the cake too. :thumbsup:


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

First ride on my new SS yesterday and this bike is awesome...love it! If you're on the fence like I was do it now! LOL 

Today 10 hours only take an extra 20% off any one item, includes bikes and frames but excludes some brands....10am to 10pm.

Coupon code 48746

Go buy it! 

Pics of my bike in the wild coming soon.  I thought the stock gearing 32/18 would be too high as I ran 32/20 on my Mary (stock gearing on it) and didn't think I could push more. Mine new Nashbar on the left and my buddies new to him SE Stout on the right, we had a great ride yesterday evening!


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Mostly stock except for swapped pair of Avid BB7s levers and calipers (left Tektro rotors for now to see how they work), Crank Brothers Acid 1 pedals, Lizard Skins Charger lock on grips, Redline black anodized chain tugs, Performance bottle cage, and JandD saddle bag. Bike geo is very close to my Haro Mary, but even better it seems, WTB Nano tires roll fast and seem light (will check weight) great rear tire, still deciding on the front, it's mostly sandy, loose over hardpack with some granite and river rock where I ride. I do wish the front tire was larger volume especially with rigid, Haro Mary steel fork was definitely more compliant than this one. Stock saddle is surprisingly comfortable so far too...it may stay but I have a spare NIP Specialized Henge just in case.

EDIT: BTW, I'm very pleasantly surprised with the decent weight, and very well adjusted wheel bearings that really spin a long time. The bars are good shape, but they are easily twice the wall thickness of my Easton EA50 on HT...lol. Tektro rotors don't seem to have much grab (brakes are still seating so we'll see) compared to Avid G2 and G3 rotors.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

My buddy's Stout SE doing work, it's steeper than it looks...cross narrow uphill wood plank bridge, cut hard right, more uphill, then through the rock garden, slight right, cut hard left and more uphill.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

It seems that the stock steel fork is less compliant than what was on my Mary. What is a good disc type steel fork with more compliance and proper A-C dimensions? Surly Karate Monkey fork or?

Karate Monkey Fork | Parts | Surly Bikes

What's your favorite front tire with more volume than the WTB Nano? Wish they had a real 2.2 Nano. I love the Specialized Purgatory 29x2.3 (more like a real 2.2 with good volume) on my HT front tire, but kinda hoping for little faster roller for front of SS.


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

I've been running a WTB Exiwolf 2.3 up front on my Nashbar SS. Unfortunately, I think they've been discontinued. I think my next front may be an Ardent 2.4, but that's still up in the air, as the Exiwolf still has some life in it. I will say I absolutely hated the Nano on the front around here. It gave up way too easily in turns on our semi-gritty slightly rocky hard pack. It does really well on the rear though. I've completely worn out the Nano that came on the rear of mine, and I'm now the better part of the way through the Nano that I took off the front. Next rear tire - a RaRa that I don't like on my FS geared bike.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

BeginnerCycling said:


> For you guys who have changed the brakes -- do you know if 180's fit?


Yes, they will. 

Gave the brake cables a good stretch, re-adjusted and they are working much better now. :thumbsup: Really like the WTB Nanos on this bike they are light, fast rolling, good rear tire (ok on the front but washes too easily on front) but they need more volume for where I ride (appears that they used the folding bead Race version on my Nashbar 575 grams each  ). I wish the the WTB Nanos were a true 2.2" tire, so I bought a pair of GEAX Saguaro 29x2.2 (690 grams each), these are great all-around tires, that have true 2.2 volume, tough sidewalls, decent weight, folding bead, and better side grip than the Nanos. Saguaros were good on my Mary, so we'll see how they do on this. Later for the front tire, I may go with a Specialized Purgatory 29x2.3....really a 2.2" tire, but a great everything tire from rocks, roots, wet, dry, hardpack, loose over, etc....they are still a decent roller for the aggressive tire they are. Has anybody tried the new FE Analysis version Purgatory?

EDIT: Stock tires are the folding bead Nano....575 grams each!


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Extra 25% off all orders $40 or more including bikes and frames, today only.
Use code: NB40 at checkout.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Cotharyus said:


> I've been running a WTB Exiwolf 2.3 up front on my Nashbar SS. Unfortunately, I think they've been discontinued. I think my next front may be an Ardent 2.4, but that's still up in the air, as the Exiwolf still has some life in it. I will say I absolutely hated the Nano on the front around here. It gave up way too easily in turns on our semi-gritty slightly rocky hard pack. It does really well on the rear though. I've completely worn out the Nano that came on the rear of mine, and I'm now the better part of the way through the Nano that I took off the front. Next rear tire - a RaRa that I don't like on my FS geared bike.


Sorry I didn't reply sooner, looks like fleabay etc. is your friend for those Exiwolfs. Wolverine might be good replacement. :thumbsup: Your dirt sounds similar to mine. Looks like WTB discontinued the Exiwolf as you said. 29" Tires | Wilderness Trail Bikes


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## Greasedmonkey (Nov 16, 2012)

Cotharyus said:


> I've been running a WTB Exiwolf 2.3 up front on my Nashbar SS. Unfortunately, I think they've been discontinued. I think my next front may be an Ardent 2.4, but that's still up in the air, as the Exiwolf still has some life in it. I will say I absolutely hated the Nano on the front around here. It gave up way too easily in turns on our semi-gritty slightly rocky hard pack. It does really well on the rear though. I've completely worn out the Nano that came on the rear of mine, and I'm now the better part of the way through the Nano that I took off the front. Next rear tire - a RaRa that I don't like on my FS geared bike.


I agree with this as well. The Nano on the front just about killed me more than once on my first ride with the bike. It was off and replace with a Ikon 2.2 after that ride and I have never looked back.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

For those of you interested, Nashbar is having a today-only coupon code for 20% off today -- just enter 43847 at checkout.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Greasedmonkey said:


> I agree with this as well. The Nano on the front just about killed me more than once on my first ride with the bike. It was off and replace with a Ikon 2.2 after that ride and I have never looked back.


It wasn't that bad for my conditions, but not confidence inspiring. Great light fast rolling rear tire, but 2.2 would be nice.



BeginnerCycling said:


> For those of you interested, Nashbar is having a today-only coupon code for 20% off today -- just enter 43847 at checkout.


Yes, got the email this morning too...get a great deal on a great bike. Still McLovin mine. :thumbsup:

McLovin - Superbad (1/8) Movie CLIP (2007) HD - YouTube


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## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

Not a fan of the nano... Slip, sliding.... Almost broke my wrist and elbow on that tire... Change, IMO.


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

I realize, I should post a picture of my Nashbar SS. I've made some updates to it, and it looks like a well used bike. It's also down to just a shade over 25 lbs. It's on one of those slow diets. That's what I keep saying about myself as well, I'm on a slow diet....


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Cotharyus said:


> I realize, I should post a picture of my Nashbar SS. I've made some updates to it, and it looks like a well used bike. It's also down to just a shade over 25 lbs. It's on one of those slow diets. That's what I keep saying about myself as well, I'm on a slow diet....


Pics, pics pics!  And a list of upgrades please.

20% off extended one more day by Nashbar use coupon code 43847 at checkout!


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## Awshucks (Apr 14, 2013)

Could I just purchase the frame from Nashbar and not the whole bike?


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

Awshucks said:


> Could I just purchase the frame from Nashbar and not the whole bike?


I've never seen that option on the website. I'm guessing not.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Awshucks said:


> Could I just purchase the frame from Nashbar and not the whole bike?


Call Nashbar and ask.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

Natedogz said:


> Yes, got the email this morning too...get a great deal on a great bike. Still McLovin mine. :thumbsup:


I'm still loving mine too. About to replace the seatpost with a Thompson -- I'm a clydesdale, and the saddle was moving in the seatpost some lately. No complaints though, it's been a great bike -- even the stock Io brakes have been fine for me, though I may upgrade them at some point.


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

Assuming this picture has worked....

What you're looking at is a Nasbar frame, fork, bars, stem and crank. The wheels are Pacenti TL28's laced to Origin8 SS hubs - a good weight savings, and some seriously tough wheels so far. The seat is a take off from a Giant bike, lighter, a little narrower, and to me, more comfortable than the stock saddle. The post is a carbon Pro-XCR 400mm. Brakes are BB7's with Speed Dial 7 levers. Rotors are Ashima Airotors. The picture was taken on a trail I'm building, after lunch I usually ride my bike back in to where I'm working.


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## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

I have one that I would be willing to part with. Send me a PM and I will send you pictures. Frame, fork, breaks, wheel set, cranks, all stock.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Cotharyus said:


> Assuming this picture has worked....
> 
> What you're looking at is a Nasbar frame, fork, bars, stem and crank. The wheels are Pacenti TL28's laced to Origin8 SS hubs - a good weight savings, and some seriously tough wheels so far. The seat is a take off from a Giant bike, lighter, a little narrower, and to me, more comfortable than the stock saddle. The post is a carbon Pro-XCR 400mm. Brakes are BB7's with Speed Dial 7 levers. Rotors are Ashima Airotors. The picture was taken on a trail I'm building, after lunch I usually ride my bike back in to where I'm working.


Nice thanks for the pic, trail is looking good too.


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

Natedogz said:


> Nice thanks for the pic, trail is looking good too.


Thanks! That trail is part of a new project I'm working on. The advance look will be 5.5 miles when done, the whole network somewhere closer to 10, including an easy and intermediate loop. I usually use my SS to prove the trail when I'm done, especially some of the "alternate" advanced lines, so I don't void the warranty on my FS XC bike.


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## Kbarrette (Mar 16, 2013)

I bought a Nashbar 29er SS over the July 4th holiday using the 20% off promo and have been really digging the feel of the bike. The only thing I can't stand about it is the Tektro brakes. I have a set of BB7s with Avid levers and G2 rotors coming that i picked up used but I am not sure if I am going to put those on this bike or put them on my Rocky Mountain Soul. I have BB5s on there which I can move to this bike which grab a heck of a lot better than the Tektros. 

I've also put a set of SPD / platforms dual pedals and a WTB pure V saddle which is pretty nice. 

Did the older bikes not include a rear tug? When I was shopping for the bike, most people were saying to get redlines but mine came with a gear side tug on the box. Just wanted to see of that was a new addition because these bikes have change quite a bit over the years from what I have see.

Also, this is my first post, been lurking for quite a while but finally decided to post!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

I'm not sure what you mean by "older" - I know it's changed some, but I don't know what the history is. Mine came with a tug, but it was a terrible one, and it greatly limited the adjustment range of the wheel. I took it off, and haven't had any problems. I just tighten the wheel down like it used to do with BMX bikes.


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## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

I would also suggest a set of locking washers between the nut and the frame. After a year my rear wheel started to slip forward while riding and the chain would fly off. Not fun when you are picking your line for the climb and stand up to mash and find that your chain is not engaged....


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Teetshorn said:


> I would also suggest a set of locking washers between the nut and the frame. After a year my rear wheel started to slip forward while riding and the chain would fly off. Not fun when you are picking your line for the climb and stand up to mash and find that your chain is not engaged....


Just buy the Redline chaintugs and no problems, no lock washers needed!

Kbarrette, BB5s suck ime...lol. Run the BB7s. I'm running BB7s with the Tektro rotors and works good.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

7/22/13 22% off all Nashbar orders $50 or more, coupon code 22222


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## Kbarrette (Mar 16, 2013)

Natedogz said:


> Kbarrette, BB5s suck ime...lol. Run the BB7s. I'm running BB7s with the Tektro rotors and works good.


I put the BB7s on with the Avid rotors and you are right! Wow, what a difference compared to the BB5s. The stopping power is way better. I figure with the heavier wheels on this the BB7s would be more effective. Now I need to find another set for my Rocky Mountain.


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

Question for people with this bike. I was looking at my bike yesterday, and noticed it looked like the top tube had a bow in it. I figured it was an optical illusion but it was bugging me, so I got out a straight edge and laid it across the top tube....and it's got a bow in it, sure enough. Can someone else take a level, or a square, and check and see if their top tube is straight, or if it has a little bow in it? I'd hate to think I was nearing the end of the useful life of this frame....


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## mnet (Jul 30, 2009)

@Cotharyus 

I just checked this on mine. Yes there is a very small bow (1-2mm) in the top tube. 
She is 2 years old and saw a lot of abuse, so I don't know if the "bow" is the way it's supposed to be or if I got the same Problem.

Martin


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

mnet - thanks. It sounds like your bow may be due to the ovaling of the tube towards the the seat tube to make that connection work better. In mm mine is more like 5-6. Also, checking against the bottom of the top tube results in the center of the straight edge touching, and the ends not touching. It might be time for me to look into a new frame.


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## tomcat85 (May 29, 2012)

Anyone know what max tire size is on this rig?


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

A 2.25 works well on the rear, I've thought about a 2.3, but I'm not sure that would go well with anything stuck to a tire, and I know a 2.4 won't go. Up front, the sky is pretty much the limit.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Yes, 2.25 is no problem front or rear. Bike is on sale for $399 as per email today. 



Teetshorn said:


> Not a fan of the nano... Slip, sliding.... Almost broke my wrist and elbow on that tire... Change, IMO.


Agreed, not a good front tire. Decent on the rear, but not enough volume for deep sand or very rough trails. I ditched both of mine and installed GEAX Saguaro 29x2.2 front and rear, great fast rolling all around tire.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Cotharyus said:


> Question for people with this bike. I was looking at my bike yesterday, and noticed it looked like the top tube had a bow in it. I figured it was an optical illusion but it was bugging me, so I got out a straight edge and laid it across the top tube....and it's got a bow in it, sure enough. Can someone else take a level, or a square, and check and see if their top tube is straight, or if it has a little bow in it? I'd hate to think I was nearing the end of the useful life of this frame....





mnet said:


> @Cotharyus
> 
> I just checked this on mine. Yes there is a very small bow (1-2mm) in the top tube.
> She is 2 years old and saw a lot of abuse, so I don't know if the "bow" is the way it's supposed to be or if I got the same Problem.
> ...


I'll check mine too.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Cotharyus said:


> mnet - thanks. It sounds like your bow may be due to the ovaling of the tube towards the the seat tube to make that connection work better. In mm mine is more like 5-6. Also, checking against the bottom of the top tube results in the center of the straight edge touching, and the ends not touching. It might be time for me to look into a new frame.


I checked the top of my top tube and it appears straight, the end at the seat tube is flattened on the sides and therefore flares upwards about 5 or 6mm....sounds normal there. I'll check the bottom of the top tube too. Work is jumping busy lately.

Nashbar SS 29er is still $399 today!


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

Nate, I'll be interested to see what you come up with when you check the bottom of the tube.


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## ronbeel (Apr 15, 2013)

HeyitsDave, I also converted my Nash SS to a geared setup and have a question: how do you take the wheel off in the event of a flat ect? It seems like the hanger has to come off as well. Problematic! Am I missing something?


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

ronbeel said:


> HeyitsDave, I also converted my Nash SS to a geared setup and have a question: how do you take the wheel off in the event of a flat ect? It seems like the hanger has to come off as well. Problematic! Am I missing something?


Yep. No mystery there. There hanger has to come off with the wheel when you have a flat or whatever. I'd never given it any thought til you posted this, because I'd never thought about running it geared.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Cotharyus said:


> Nate, I'll be interested to see what you come up with when you check the bottom of the tube.


I was trying to find a straight edge of appropriate length to check with, the best I could find that would fit in there was an 18" ruler and mine is same as the top of the top tube...straight but flares up a millimeter or two in the last couple inches near where it is welded to the seat tube. I used a level/straight edge to check the top of the top tube. HTH....and keep us posted.

EDIT: My stock headset is getting kinda gritty, going to look for a nice sealed bearing Cane Creek or FSA to replace it.


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

What year spec is your frame Natedogz?

Running theory on another forum is that all the 2012 frames have this bow.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Mine is the gold frame....ordered it 4/2/13 and received about one week later...not sure what year specifically. HTH 

Hmmm, interesting theory.


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## DemoFly (Oct 11, 2013)

So I just bit the bullet on one of these bad boys. I chose the 29er over the 27.5" at nashbar just because the 29er makes more sense for SS to me.

Anyone have a wheelset they recommend? That will be an upgrade I purchase relatively soon.

Hope I like the aluminum on the 29er more than I would like the chromoly on the 27.5".


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

DemoFly said:


> So I just bit the bullet on one of these bad boys. I chose the 29er over the 27.5" at nashbar just because the 29er makes more sense for SS to me.
> 
> Anyone have a wheelset they recommend? That will be an upgrade I purchase relatively soon.
> 
> Hope I like the aluminum on the 29er more than I would like the chromoly on the 27.5".


Cool, I'd go tubeless of some type, bolt on hubs, and SS specific rear wheel, sorry nothing more exact.


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

I had a mechanic friend of mine who works at my LBS build up a set of Pacenti TL28 hoops for me. Check those out, and see what you can get hub wise.


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## DemoFly (Oct 11, 2013)

I placed my order on Thursday and Nashbar automatically credited me for their 20% off Veterans day coupon code. Awesome!

Bike comes in tomorrow. What size freewheel am I going to want if I change to a 20t?


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

DemoFly said:


> What size freewheel am I going to want if I change to a 20t?


You just change the cog to 20t -- the freewheel is built into the hub.


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

After lots of fun with my Nashbar 29er, I am now selling mine (Medium, 17" frame). I got a Kona Unit as my anniversary gift from my wife, so I'm going to try out a steel frame for a while.


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## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

You will love the unit. I also graduated from the nashbar 29er, great bike but really not in the same league as the unit. Been on it now almost a year and worth every penny. Best of luck and congratulations!


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

BeginnerCycling said:


> After lots of fun with my Nashbar 29er, I am now selling mine (Medium, 17" frame). I got a Kona Unit as my anniversary gift from my wife, so I'm going to try out a steel frame for a while.


Have furn and update how you like the steel. My steel Mary rode better than my Nashbar, but I can't complain for the price of the Nashbar lol.

EDIT: When you graduate to a nicer SS, the Nashbar makes a great spare, backup, or loaner bike. :thumbsup:


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## BeginnerCycling (Nov 21, 2011)

Natedogz said:


> the Nashbar makes a great spare, backup, or loaner bike. :thumbsup:


I like your thinking on that:thumbsup:, but I'm literally running out of space on my side of the garage to park bikes, so I'm afraid the Nashbar has to go (it will be missed).


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

Quick question folks,I'm at work and looking at carbon seat posts and can't remember the correct diameter. Does anyone know the seatpost diameter?


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## Kampfire (Jun 25, 2010)

Here's my wife's Nashbar upgraded with Niner Steel fork.


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## Kbarrette (Mar 16, 2013)

Muxherdlr said:


> Quick question folks,I'm at work and looking at carbon seat posts and can't remember the correct diameter. Does anyone know the seatpost diameter?


I'm fairly sure it's 27.2.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mblittle (May 25, 2010)

I picked up one of these bikes from my local Performance Bike for super cheap. It was considered a recycled bike and was on on sale for $200. The problems is that it's scratched up pretty good in some spots. For those of you that have painted the frame, did you strip the paint first, or just prime it and paint it? I have only painted one frame before and the paint was 30 years old and came off pretty easy with some heavy duty paint stripper. If the paint on this frame is pretty hard to remove then I'll just scuff it up and prime over it.


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

Thanks and yes it's is 27.2


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Hey all I just picked up my Nashbar SS tonight! I got a 17 as I am 5'10 and ride a 17.5 geared 29er. I did go with a 400mm seatpost with my order and I picked up a Rockshox XC 32 Solo Air to put on mine. I know alot are using the ridged but my neck wont be able to handle that(Neck problems). 

How are you guys digging the bike? Its got some savage parts on it for an intro SS. I was bouncing back and forth between different bikes but for the money and 21% off code I couldnt resist. I seen the bars are 670mm wide so I am going to keep them. Does anyone know what size stem comes on the 17 and also is it 31.8clamp? It looks to be about a 90MM but i cant find anything.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Just wondering what type of cogs did you guys use to swap out the 18t? Id like to get a 20t for when i ride at places that call for one till I can get stronger on the single speed. Will something like Gusset Steel cog, 3/32" - 20t work? 

I called nashbar to ask and the tech was trying to tell me to buy a 20t freehub cassette but to me it looks like one of the regular single speed cogs.


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

ian0789 said:


> Just wondering what type of cogs did you guys use to swap out the 18t? Id like to get a 20t for when i ride at places that call for one till I can get stronger on the single speed. Will something like Gusset Steel cog, 3/32" - 20t work?
> 
> I called nashbar to ask and the tech was trying to tell me to buy a 20t freehub cassette but to me it looks like one of the regular single speed cogs.


Mine is Surly stainless steel and 21


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Muxherdlr said:


> Mine is Surly stainless steel and 21


Thank you much! By chance is it just the regular cassette removal tool that is used for shimano/sram cassette lock rings? I have the tool but mine has a long pin that goes in the open axle and since mine has the bolt axles I cant take it off till I stop over at my friends shop to take a look.


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

ian0789 said:


> Thank you much! By chance is it just the regular cassette removal tool that is used for shimano/sram cassette lock rings? I have the tool but mine has a long pin that goes in the open axle and since mine has the bolt axles I cant take it off till I stop over at my friends shop to take a look.


Not positive on that..... LBS did mine.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Muxherdlr said:


> Not positive on that..... LBS did mine.


Thanks Mux, will have to stop over at my friends shop and see whats on it. In the mean time anyone of you nashbar single speed owners do it your self?

I got two rides in on mine and I love it, thing is a best. The 18t cog is working really well for the place I ride at. I might wanna do 19 or 20 for when I ride places with bigger climbs but honestly I think my legs will get stronger by the time I get around to ordering one.

I did end up putting on a 100mm front shock and like stated in the early posts an 80mm would probably better suit the stance but the 100 does work and the bike rides strong with it. I havnt noticed a big lose in climbing and if I need to I can flip the lockout. I cant get over what I was missing out on really gotta say my geared bikes are going to be collecting dust with this thing around.


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## 1967c10 (Sep 23, 2013)

ian0789- I am fairly new to this bike and loving it as well, seems like a great bike to get started in SS and can see myself riding it as is for some time, love the full rigid over past bikes ive owned for sure! As far as taking the lock nut off to change your cog, I used the Park tool FR-5 Park Tool HG/Disc Lockring Tool - Normal Shipping Ground And you will also need a chain whip if you don't have one. Also something to mention if you do choose a Surly cog (I picked that because surly stuff is pretty easily found here in MN), they are a bit thicker so your stock spacer will either need to be trimmed down like I did or find some thinner spacers (BTW, I went with a 21 tooth, just my riding preference). I am no expert by any means, just a mechanic who digs bikes and learn as I go! Any other questions, i'll try and help, and enjoy the bike!


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

1967c10 said:


> ian0789- I am fairly new to this bike and loving it as well, seems like a great bike to get started in SS and can see myself riding it as is for some time, love the full rigid over past bikes ive owned for sure! As far as taking the lock nut off to change your cog, I used the Park tool FR-5 Park Tool HG/Disc Lockring Tool - Normal Shipping Ground And you will also need a chain whip if you don't have one. Also something to mention if you do choose a Surly cog (I picked that because surly stuff is pretty easily found here in MN), they are a bit thicker so your stock spacer will either need to be trimmed down like I did or find some thinner spacers (BTW, I went with a 21 tooth, just my riding preference). I am no expert by any means, just a mechanic who digs bikes and learn as I go! Any other questions, i'll try and help, and enjoy the bike!


Hey thank you so much! So the lock ring is a cassette and NOT a free hub lock ring. If you dont mind me asking when you take the ring and spacers off what is lurking under it. Is it a cassette body after all? Could you in theory slap a cassette on the stock hub if you did wanna run geared? Not that I intent to but just wondering.

So I guess what I am looking for should be a something like this: Gusset Steel Cog 3 32" 20T | eBay

I could just take the hub apart so I can remove the axle but id rather not. My Cassette tool is from nashbar and it has that spike that fits into the end of the axle to help support the tool

I am loving the bike as well, I just flew out of bed just so I can get ready to ride it today. I dig the whole having to plan ahead and figure out your line vs just plowing over stuff. Its like a guessing game of trying not to bomb the trails but keeping a good speed for when need to climb. My legs are sore as heck after the last two rides on it.


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## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

Hope this will help answer your questions, as I once had a nashbar SS 29er.... Great entry level single speed at a great price.

To replace the cog, remove the rear wheel. You will need a chain whip and a cassette lock ring tool to loosen the lock ring that holds the spacers and cog on the spline.

The cog that you linked to above will work as it has the grove splines that hold it to the cassette body. BUT, in my experience I would run a better /deeper tooth cog such as Surly or Lunar, they have deeper teeth and are stronger. The factory 18t cog lasted about 3 months on mine before I shaved 2 teeth off on a climb.

When you replace the cog, just make sure that you chain ring and cog are aligned and that the chain glides smoothly.

It's really easy to do, and typically will take less than 5 min. to make a quick cog change.

Try these cogs, they are awesome, and you do not have to remove the body to make a quick cog change. In the last 6months using lunar cogs, I have not dropped a chain!

Lunar Bikes


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## 1967c10 (Sep 23, 2013)

ian0789 said:


> Hey thank you so much! So the lock ring is a cassette and NOT a free hub lock ring. If you dont mind me asking when you take the ring and spacers off what is lurking under it. Is it a cassette body after all? Could you in theory slap a cassette on the stock hub if you did wanna run geared? Not that I intent to but just wondering.
> 
> So I guess what I am looking for should be a something like this: Gusset Steel Cog 3 32" 20T | eBay
> 
> ...


After hopping on here, looks like Teetshorn beat me to it, but agree with all that he said. As far as the cassette vs free hub, im not exactly sure the difference, kinda thought they were the same, but hey like I said i'm learning as well. But from what I can explain, when you use that tool i suggested, that will loosen and remove just a like 1" diameter by like 1/4" thick like lock nut similiar to what I have seen holds on a cassette. Then slide off the spacer and the cog which are on a splined barrell. So your question about putting on a cassette, instead of the single, at first glance I don't see why you couldnt I guess? I think even at the beginning of this thread one or two people even did just that!

Also like Teetshorn mentioned, that cog you linked should work, but those stamped ones seem pretty cheesy, i never even tried mine with the stock cog. But, if you are just trying to figure out which gearing set up is best for you, then that may not be a bad route to start with just to play around and then get a nice cog once you dial it in. Those lunar brand he suggested look very nice, I run a surly, and have also seen some bad ass units from chris king as well.

Again, hope this further info helps and feel free to ask if ya need a bit more, we are all here to help eachother! And btw, not sure where you are located, but I am very jealous, and wish I could head out for a ride this am, but as I type this, I am looking at a thermometer that reads -7 and need to get my butt out to move some snow! Have a great ride and great day!


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Thank you both and that did clear it up. I think Nashbar might wanna educate there techs a bit because they had no clue at all what under the spacers at all. I think I am going to with a better cog down the road once I get gearing in order. I might do a cheap 19t and 20t just to see what I like. My normal riding the 18t is fine 19t might be a bit better on the climbs but id spin a bit on the flats. I just dont wanna dump 25-40 bucks on cogs only to find out its over kill

Those lunar ones look really nice. So i guess you buy a kit then can just buy spare cogs after? I might look into those for fast swaps for different parks.

Well I am off to go ride! Thanks again guys, I think your posts will help the next person who comes along wanting to do a little home wrenching!


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## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

Yes on the lunar cogs. You buy the kit that comes with a cog and the body piece. I also purchased the spacer kit. Rode the 19t for a month and liked the set up so much that I ordered a 18t,20t and 21t. Been very pleased and the cogs are showing little to no wear over the last 6 or so months. A few guys I bike with also recently purchased these cogs and are equally pleased.


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

Yes,you can put a cassette on stock wheel. I had to change spacers when adding Surly 21 tooth( smidge wider than stock)and needed another chain. I have stock chain,sprocket,& spacers in a oiled bag for future use.


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## P7HVN (Apr 24, 2008)

Nashbar half-fat.  Picked up a Surly front end yesterday on Craigslist, from a guy in Jacksonville, and had it put on today.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

I just got back from a 24 mile ride on the Single Speed. I gotta say I am impressed with the bike for the price. It is a sick deal and a lot of bike for the money. I ordered a new cassette tool and a 19t/20t set of cheap cogs to mess around with. I probably am going to end up running 32/19 as I find the 18t is leaving me a bit gassed on bigger climbs but also is over working my shoulder muscles and gotta keep them happy or I will aggravate my neck injury.

The pros of this bike are to many to list I gotta say I love everything about it. My only upgrades I plan on doing is Bars/stem but for now the stock ones are working just fine! It is fast and when you pedal you can feel the instant power transfer. Climbing is great, we have alot of fast up hill climbs and you can just blast up them. Wheels are a bit heavy but I am ok with that. The frame is great not a creak out of it. The brakes are starting to break in big time now and they stop on a dime. I wouldnt even upgrade them unless I went to some Hydro. BB7's would be nice but these do a damn good job. A few people I have seen commented on the crankset. Just in general not in this thread. I personally like it, I have no complaints about it. Some said it bends or was cheaply made but to me seem well made. Heck the crank set alone is half the price of the whole bike.

Mine came with black jagwire cable housings and a QR seatpost clamp. Not sure if thats something new in the newer models because all the other reviews stated or showed gray housing and a regular seatpost clamp

I think the only thing I wanted to get off the bike asap was the grips they are terrible, out of the box they moved on the bars and just not my cup of tea.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Teetshorn said:


> Yes on the lunar cogs. You buy the kit that comes with a cog and the body piece. I also purchased the spacer kit. Rode the 19t for a month and liked the set up so much that I ordered a 18t,20t and 21t. Been very pleased and the cogs are showing little to no wear over the last 6 or so months. A few guys I bike with also recently purchased these cogs and are equally pleased.


Did the stock chain work with 20t cog if you dont mind me asking? With the 21 it seems like you need to swap out the chain from what Muxherdlr said.


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## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

Yes, put back on a PC-850.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Teetshorn said:


> Yes, put back on a PC-850.


This may sound silly but PC850 isnt that a 8 speed chain if I recall. I have one on my one road bike


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## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

Yes it is. I ran a PC1 for a while but it would slip a bit. The 8 speed chain is tighter and runs better on my system.


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

I've been on eBay lately have scored carbon bars,stem,& seat post. Nashbar close out provided a MTB carbon seat. I added Hayes Stroker Trail hydro brakes couple years ago (craigslist find). My next hunt will be wheel set and suspension fork. I just turned 46 and the rigid fork is doing a number,on my hands (post ride cramps). I've had the bike 3 years and truly Love it!!! I ride it almost exclusively,my Rocky Mountain Altitude is collecting dust.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

So my finished Nashbar Single Speed 29er! Love this thing, havnt touched my geared 29er or FS 26 since I built this guy! Dont mind the Surly decal kit I picked up. I was looking for something that said SS or 1x1 and I came across the Surly 1x1 kit and had to have it! I was liking the naked bike but this kind of puts a nice finish to it.

Upgrades I did was...
740mm Nashbar Black Ops Bars
90mm Nashbar OS MTB Stem
400mm Nashbar Seatpost
Nashbar FR1 Saddle
Nashbar Lock On Grips
Rockshox 100mm XC32 Solo Air Shock
Surly Decal Kit W/ Head Badge
Bought 19t,20t cogs to play around with

I am using a 32/19t Setup and love it. I think its perfect for the flats with out to much spinning and great for climbing around me. I think this thing is the Bee's Knee's I wish I ended up getting a SS sooner. I have been running it all over the trails and have put 140 miles on it all trail and havnt even had it for more then 2 weeks. Been chomping at the bit to ride it as much as I can! Had some crummy weather that left the trails covered in snow, ice, mud, you name it and this thing handled it like a champ.

I think for the money you can not get a better deal on the bike. A few friends got SS rigs from the local shops and ended up getting about the same if not less then what we got stock and payed 750-1,000 so I am very much pleased with the Nashbar SS 29er!


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## Brooks424 (May 18, 2012)

Any new promo codes that work? Pulling the trigger on one in the next week or so.


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## 1967c10 (Sep 23, 2013)

Best bet is to just keep checking their site every morning like I did, and once a 20% or better deal comes up, jump on it!


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## mblittle (May 25, 2010)

Can someone tell me what size seatpost collar this bike uses? I'm at work and can't measure. I'd like to order a red Salsa collar but not sure on sizing.


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

mblittle said:


> Can someone tell me what size seatpost collar this bike uses? I'm at work and can't measure. I'd like to order a red Salsa collar but not sure on sizing.


Never bought one but post is 27.2. Hope that helps


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## mblittle (May 25, 2010)

That doesn't really help. I know what size the post is but the collar size is dictated by the seat tube size.


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## mblittle (May 25, 2010)

If anyone needs to know 32mm is the correct clamp size.


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

Added a Reba Race dual air fork,it's older but was recently serviced by Suspension Specialties in Asheville. Also,added carbon stem,bars,seatpost and seat.




Haven't had a chance to weigh bike,but will do soon.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

ah man glad to see this thread is still alive!


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## jammin (Dec 9, 2005)

Just out of curiosity , what do these weigh stock? Looking for my first SS and thinking of going low buck incase it's not for me.


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

I had a large that was right at 28lbs stock. If you decide it IS for you, the best thing you can do for this bike is a wheel upgrade.


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

Just added a used set of I9s. Older but in excellent condition and price was right! I also,splurged for XT brakes.


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## subyguy (Jul 19, 2012)

*Here is My Bike Currently*

This is my bike currently. I have loved it being fully rigid, but have been thinking of getting a suspension fork. Any thoughts? Also want to get a decent pair of brakes. I upgraded to a Clark Hydraulic system a year ago but the levels end up pulling in halfway down a rugged trail and I have to adjust them back out every time.


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## subyguy (Jul 19, 2012)

I was thinking of getting a cheap SR Suntour XCR or something. Or would it even be worth getting a cheap shock like that?


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## Kbarrette (Mar 16, 2013)

subyguy said:


> This is the fork I am thinking of getting. Its real cheap but is it better than just staying rigid? I ride aggressively and fast and my hands and arms take a beating so I am looking for some affordable suspension. RockShox XC28 MagTK Coil 100 26" 9QR Black TurnKey Crown Mounted Adjust Rim/Disc RockShox XC28 MagTK Coil 100 26" 9QR Black TurnKey Crown Mounted Adjust Rim/Disc - Rakuten.com Shopping


That's a 26" fork, probably not going to work for what you want it to do. IMO, you are better off with the solid fork of you are planning on going with that low end of a fork.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

Yep, don't get a coil fork, get an air fork or stay rigid. I've heard good things about the X-Fusion slide.


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

Agree with above,that's a 26" fork and won't work. Additionally,don't waste money on coil spring fork,your rigid will be better! I researched and searched until I came across a deal on a used Rock Shox Reba Race fork,it's dual air,was recently serviced,and cost me $150. You want an air sprung fork. Good way to tell a cheap fork is stainless steel or chome looking sanctions(just like one in your link).


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## subyguy (Jul 19, 2012)

Thanks for the replies. I realized I accidentally posted the wrong link with the 26". Came back to edit it and had some replies. That's what I was thinking. I have been looking at the Reba or the X Fusion. They are just a bit out of my price range for the time being, so until then I will stay rigid and surprise dudes on $6,000 suspension bikes when I pass them on the downhills.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Cotharyus said:


> I had a large that was right at 28lbs stock. If you decide it IS for you, the best thing you can do for this bike is a wheel upgrade.


IIRC my large is about the same, great bike especially for the price!


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

subyguy said:


> ....That's what I was thinking. I have been looking at the Reba or the X Fusion. They are just a bit out of my price range for the time being, so until then I will stay rigid and surprise dudes on $6,000 suspension bikes when I pass them on the downhills.


THis....Reba or X Fusion with remote lockout. I had one on my Mary SS for awhile and it was great, sold the Mary and kept the fork.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

ian0789 said:


> So my finished Nashbar Single Speed 29er! Love this thing, havnt touched my geared 29er or FS 26 since I built this guy! Dont mind the Surly decal kit I picked up. I was looking for something that said SS or 1x1 and I came across the Surly 1x1 kit and had to have it! I was liking the naked bike but this kind of puts a nice finish to it.
> 
> Upgrades I did was...
> 740mm Nashbar Black Ops Bars
> ...


I agree, enjoy your sweet SS ride!



Brooks424 said:


> Any new promo codes that work? Pulling the trigger on one in the next week or so.


Sign up at Nashbar site for email etc and they will email you promos and codes all the time!



1967c10 said:


> Best bet is to just keep checking their site every morning like I did, and once a 20% or better deal comes up, jump on it!


This is good idea too.


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## coyote39 (Apr 14, 2014)

I'm looking to pull the trigger on this bike once the coupon pops up again. My question is never been on a 29er.... sizing??? I am 5'7" with a 29-30inch inseam. Should I go with a 15" or 17"???


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## njdemur (Apr 25, 2014)

Hey everyone,

new to posting on MTBR. I've been scouring MTBR for a couple years figured I'd finally make an account. I don't know a whole lot about bikes, I've slowly been learning from forums. I've decided to grab this bike before it's gone for good, looks like a great platform to start/restart. This will be my second MTB (and second SS! ), the first was a unbranded chromoly frame from bikeisland with the RST M29. I had the LBS press the headset and install the fork. I built the rest of it up with the help of a friend using a Kona Unit build kit I found on ebay for a great price. I absolutely loved that bike, it was amazing.. Chain NEVER lost tension, I barely had to do anything to it over the 2 seasons i rode it. I actually ended up selling it unwillingly due to a financial situation at the time. The RST M29 could have been better, lockout never worked that great but it did its job. I rode that bike through almost every state forest in Central PA. I just pulled the trigger on a X-Fusion Slide for 290 on Amazon a few days ago - and as soon as I get another 20% off coupon I'm grabbing this Nashbar. I really hope I don't regret the choice of a 9mm QR (Can I change this later to 15?). Anyway, more thoughts later.. 

Cheers,
Nick


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

Anyone on the fence about buying this bike? Nashbar has 25% off today only on select items and the SS is one. Today only 5-11


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## Sickmak90 (May 27, 2012)

Pretty tempting at $375.


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## Jonny83 (May 12, 2014)

Hey guys,
I've been reading through this thread the past week, and decided to pull the trigger on this bike. I understand Nashbar runs deals, and I'll be holding out for one that includes this bike. However, the full selling price right now is $499. Seeing the prices many of you paid for the bike, I'm curious... Did nashbar justify this price with any upgraded components? Or is it just a seasonal price jack? Thanks in advance.


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

I think the price has just been going up. Inflation, material cost, etc. Next time they run a sale on it, pick it up as cheap as you can.


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## Rrod9793 (Jun 4, 2014)

Hey everyone please help.I have a nashbar SS 29er and am looking for a decent air fork not wanting to spend more than $300. Any suggestions. I am new to biking, and all I know is that the bike is a 1-1/8" straight steerer. Thanks


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## subyguy (Jul 19, 2012)

If you can find a used Rock Shox Reba or XFusion Slide you can keep it under 300 bucks and get a great fork. I found a Reba about month ago.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

coyote39 said:


> I'm looking to pull the trigger on this bike once the coupon pops up again. My question is never been on a 29er.... sizing??? I am 5'7" with a 29-30inch inseam. Should I go with a 15" or 17"???


Prolly 17" or maybe 19", I'm 6'2" on 21", call Nashbar and ask about sizing.



njdemur said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> new to posting on MTBR. I've been scouring MTBR for a couple years figured I'd finally make an account. I don't know a whole lot about bikes, I've slowly been learning from forums. I've decided to grab this bike before it's gone for good, looks like a great platform to start/restart. This will be my second MTB (and second SS! ), the first was a unbranded chromoly frame from bikeisland with the RST M29. I had the LBS press the headset and install the fork. I built the rest of it up with the help of a friend using a Kona Unit build kit I found on ebay for a great price. I absolutely loved that bike, it was amazing.. Chain NEVER lost tension, I barely had to do anything to it over the 2 seasons i rode it. I actually ended up selling it unwillingly due to a financial situation at the time. The RST M29 could have been better, lockout never worked that great but it did its job. I rode that bike through almost every state forest in Central PA. I just pulled the trigger on a X-Fusion Slide for 290 on Amazon a few days ago - and as soon as I get another 20% off coupon I'm grabbing this Nashbar. I really hope I don't regret the choice of a 9mm QR (Can I change this later to 15?). Anyway, more thoughts later..
> 
> ...


You'll love this bike! That fork would need new lowers to switch from 9mm QR to 15mm etc, not worth it, just buy another fork later.



Cotharyus said:


> I think the price has just been going up. Inflation, material cost, etc. Next time they run a sale on it, pick it up as cheap as you can.


Probably, still a good deal on a sweet SS 29er.



subyguy said:


> If you can find a used Rock Shox Reba or XFusion Slide you can keep it under 300 bucks and get a great fork. I found a Reba about month ago.


This or save up and buy new Reba or X-Fusion.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

how is everybodys bikes holding up? just got mine out today to start its 5th season sice i got it from nashbar

holding up much better then i am..... lol


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

Munged the frame on mine last spring. Took all the parts off (there were very few original bits left) and put them on a Soma Juice frame.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

PoorBob said:


> how is everybodys bikes holding up? just got mine out today to start its 5th season sice i got it from nashbar
> 
> holding up much better then i am..... lol


Still rockin mine and loving it, only wish they would use some better and lighter wheels that hold good bead at low pressure, like WTB 32 hole. Dam Alex rims don't have a proper bead socket, so when running low pressure the tires slip on the rims which will eventually rip the valve stems off the tubes. Every couple weeks I have to let the air out, spin the tire on the rim to line the valve stem straight up again, and air back up. Some day I will upgrade to lighter weight, higher quality dedicated SS wheel set. I would still buy the bike again even with what I know about it now. 



Cotharyus said:


> Munged the frame on mine last spring. Took all the parts off (there were very few original bits left) and put them on a Soma Juice frame.


What is "munged"? lol


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

PoorBob said:


> how is everybodys bikes holding up? just got mine out today to start its 5th season sice i got it from nashbar
> 
> holding up much better then i am..... lol


Still rockin mine and loving it, only wish they would use some better and lighter wheels that hold good bead at low pressure, like WTB 32 hole. Dam Alex rims don't have a proper bead socket, so when running low pressure the tires slip on the rims which will eventually rip the valve stems off the tubes. Every couple weeks I have to let the air out, spin the tire on the rim to line the valve stem straight up again, and air back up. Some day I will upgrade to lighter weight, higher quality dedicated SS wheel set. I would still buy the bike again even with what I know about it now. 



Cotharyus said:


> Munged the frame on mine last spring. Took all the parts off (there were very few original bits left) and put them on a Soma Juice frame.


What is "munged"? lol


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

Sorry, "munged" is a holdover from my IT days. Basically, it's bad data manipulation. 

/muhnj/ 1. A derogatory term meaning to imperfectly transform information. 

I imperfectly transformed the rear end of the frame after going off a drop. Everything was fine until the next time I put power down, then the whole thing flexed and the wheel slid forward in the tracks. From that point on, nothing would keep the wheel where it should be, and the chain would pop off. In short, my big @$$ damaged the frame.


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

I've added a used I9 rear,a used SRAM X9 front,Rock Shock Race fork,XT brakes,& some carbon bits. I sold my Rocky Mountain Altitude and ride my Nashbar SS exclusively. I'm gonna buy a new squishy bike soon and the Nashbar will be torn down and frame will be powdercoated.


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

BIGABIGD said:


> Here is a picture of my Surly Tuggnut chain tensioner. This is a beautiful piece of machined stainless and I am certain it will keep my wheel where it belongs.


they also make for a nice bottle opener


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Cotharyus said:


> Sorry, "munged" is a holdover from my IT days. Basically, it's bad data manipulation.
> 
> /muhnj/ 1. A derogatory term meaning to imperfectly transform information.
> 
> I imperfectly transformed the rear end of the frame after going off a drop. Everything was fine until the next time I put power down, then the whole thing flexed and the wheel slid forward in the tracks. From that point on, nothing would keep the wheel where it should be, and the chain would pop off. In short, my big @$$ damaged the frame.


Got it now, thanks. 



PoorBob said:


> they also make for a nice bottle opener


Yes they are nicely done.


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## tomparker (Mar 1, 2013)

PoorBob said:


> how is everybodys bikes holding up? just got mine out today to start its 5th season sice i got it from nashbar
> 
> holding up much better then i am..... lol


Mine held up to the True Grit Epic 50 mile course a couple weeks ago in St. George, UT. Not breaking any land speed records in the single speed category, I rode it with stock wheels, rear tire, fork and brakes. Non-stock parts include carbon 400 mm seatpost, fizik seat, 580 mm Truvativ carbon flat bars with Giant bar ends, 2.4 inch WTB ExiWolf in front, narrow-wide chainring (32T) and singleworks rear sprocket (20T). I took off the chain tensioner to avoid hassle changing flats (no flats that particular day). The chain loosened somewhat by the end, but I never had to adjust it and never needed to stop for maintenance. This course includes some continuous rock sections with bumpy drops, some of which I rode, some I walked. If I was to do this again, I might consider a suspension fork. Not sure if a carbon fork would make much difference riding long rock sections...have never ridden a carbon fork so I don't know. If anyone is considering this bike, I would not rule it out from a concern that it can't handle moderately rough terrain. Aside from this last trip, I have a few hundred miles on this bicycle--mostly western Montana singletrack last summer with the current gearing and a few winter road rides with 36/16 gearing. The bicycle is a ton of fun for the money, and it's a great excuse to occasionally purchase bike parts and pretend to be a bike mechanic.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

They are $399 right now and the color is better than my gold imo, plus sans rim brake mounts that I don't like to see on my frame and forks.  Buy now imo.

Nashbar Single-Speed 29er Mountain Bike

EDIT: Take An Extra 21 Percent Off Orders of $49+, Discount taken in cart


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## PoorBob (Jul 8, 2009)

Right on Tom. 

Its just a fun bike. Finally made my first upgrade. Went with the Nashbar SoHo pedals thinking I would use them for transitioning from sneakers to actually bike shoes. 

Well I haven't gone out with street shoes yet. Props to Nashbar for us sorta avid riders. It keeps me interested but its not breaking the bank.. Hmmm maybe they should give me some free stuff for the props??


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## 1badmax (Mar 3, 2015)

I wonder if anything changed on the new one


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## Jack_ (Feb 20, 2015)

+1 to 1badmax's question.
I've been considering one of these for a SS on the cheap for a long time. The new frame looks like thinner tubing compared to the old gold/tan frames, anyone have a newer gray paint model and can chime in?

Also, I just noticed the chainstay... wow 463mm? 18.22" is so long, whats that ride like a Buick or not so bad?


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## CB2423 (May 14, 2012)

Wanting to pick one of these up but the new frame looks different for user. Even the way the tubing comes into the head tube. anyone have this model that can chime in?


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

I just ordered mine yesterday after looking at a couple different geared bikes. Decided for my budget this would be the best 29er to go with. Will be my first mtn 29er. First ss also. I'm excited. I got 20% adjustment today since I just ordered it yesterday. Very cool! I'll report back once I get the bike and test it out!



cburgin said:


> Wanting to pick one of these up but the new frame looks different for user. Even the way the tubing comes into the head tube. anyone have this model that can chime in?


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## Jack_ (Feb 20, 2015)

Thanks let us know what that new frame is all about aaguilar3!


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

*It's here!*

The bike came in yesterday. Assembly included inserting seat, attaching handlebars, attaching pedals, and attaching front wheel. Bike came in a great condition. The color is pretty awesome! The size was perfect for me. I got a M. I'm 6'1" with 30" inseam. I have about a 2-3 inch gap between top tube and groin. The thing I did notice is that the seat, handlebars, and wheels are all made or branded Crucial. Which I haven't heard of. The wheels on the website pic are the same as the ones I got, but under the specs list it says Alex TD wheels which mine are Crucial Timeline. I asked Nashbar and they said something like if they don't have the same model they send something else? Anywho's the bike feels great, I only rode it up and down the street. I still need to adjust the Novela disk brakes since the rotor is pretty much stuck to the outer pad. I have been watching some videos so I hope to fix that when I get home and ride it on some trails maybe tomorrow or this weekend. I'll report more once I really test it out. Sorry the pic is upside down. I took it while it was on the hooks. lol. I'll take more later!



Jack_ said:


> Thanks let us know what that new frame is all about aaguilar3!


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

I'm being tempted by this bike...does anyone have a weight for the latest model?


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

Not sure. Pretty light. Under 35 for sure. You can chat with product support and ask on nashbar



dledinger said:


> I'm being tempted by this bike...does anyone have a weight for the latest model?


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## Jack_ (Feb 20, 2015)

Sounds like a nice fit aaguilar3 glad you like so far. Can you confirm if the chainstay on the M is really as long as Nash claims? Also, if anybody has one of the older frames (gold colored) is the CS just as long or did it grow with the new paint and front triangle?


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

Yes, so far it's great. I rode it a short distance yesterday to the store to break in the pads a bit. I did notice that no matter how I position the brake caliper in the rear I can't get it to have a tiny gap between the outside pad and the rotor. When you see where the caliper is mounted that part of the frame is bent in a bit. The rotor seems to be true. I will have to have someone else look at it.

As far as the chain stay. I'll measure that for you when I get home.



Jack_ said:


> Sounds like a nice fit aaguilar3 glad you like so far. Can you confirm if the chainstay on the M is really as long as Nash claims? Also, if anybody has one of the older frames (gold colored) is the CS just as long or did it grow with the new paint and front triangle?


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

Jack_ said:


> Sounds like a nice fit aaguilar3 glad you like so far. Can you confirm if the chainstay on the M is really as long as Nash claims? Also, if anybody has one of the older frames (gold colored) is the CS just as long or did it grow with the new paint and front triangle?


Chainstay is 20"


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## Jack_ (Feb 20, 2015)

Thanks bro that's what I was curious about.

I haven't had these brakes or mech disc so not sure if I can be of any help with the setup, hopefully the mount didn't get bunged in transit. Post a pic if you cant get it going I'm sure someone can chime in and assist.


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## Jack_ (Feb 20, 2015)

Oh yeah... let us know how she does when you hit the trail!
(Everyone likes pics too)


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

Hey Guys... I am interested in getting one of these Nasbar 29ers. I noticed that the 2015 models have that corny looking Nashbar logo on the frame. Is this a decal, or is this pretty much stuck to the frame?


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## Jack_ (Feb 20, 2015)

FWIW, I ended up just buying a Nash AL frame. I do love my geared 29HT and the 29 advantage is obvious in a SS - I have a lot of 26'r components that will otherwise collect dust, enough to build up a SS or 1X9. So, for the cheap price the decision was easy. I really would like to give SS'ing a try on a 29er, maybe next time. Best of luck gents post up those ride pics :thumbsup:


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

eb211 said:


> Hey Guys... I am interested in getting one of these Nasbar 29ers. I noticed that the 2015 models have that corny looking Nashbar logo on the frame. Is this a decal, or is this pretty much stuck to the frame?


I believe it is stuck on the frame. I will take a pic for you when I get home and double check though. The bike itself looks nice, logo or not.


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

UPDATE: Finally got about 4 hours of trail riding with this new model and I love it overall! I'm new to mtb and new to ss. The only complaint I have is the Tektro Novella's are horrible. I can't get them adjusted right where the wheel is freely spinning for longer than 2 seconds. They also squeal like crazy (probably for that reason) and the stopping power is not too great. I will be upgrading asap to Avid bb7's due to multiple adjustment points. The tires and wheels feel great, grip pretty good and the 29 helps roll over rocks and roots fairly easy. Everything on the bike feels really solid and I'm happy minus the brakes. I'll try and remember to post some pics later today.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

I have 3 different bikes with BB7s and one with BB5s. I like them all just fine. But to be honest....if you're going to spend a penny a brakes you may as well buy Shimano Hydros. Even low end Shimanos are super.


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

dledinger said:


> I have 3 different bikes with BB7s and one with BB5s. I like them all just fine. But to be honest....if you're going to spend a penny a brakes you may as well buy Shimano Hydros. Even low end Shimanos are super.


Well I found the BB7's on ebay for $80 for the set! Which Shimano's would you recommend? I don't want to spend a ton right now. Maybe $120 max.


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## TampaDave (Mar 20, 2015)

I've seen shimano alivio's on ebay for ~100. I think they were takeoffs. Love em but it would be kind of a pain if the hoses aren't the right length.

I put BB7's on my daughter's bike. They are kind of fiddly but they work. Gotta give em decent cables, you'll need a cable cutter. Might not be much less expensive once you're done.


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

Thanks... I was hoping that it was just a sticker, since that Nashbar name just rings something 70ish for some reason to me, nothing wrong with the 70s though. Still debating whether to get the Gravity, or the Nashbar SS 29er. I am kinda leaning more towards the Nashbar since I love the thinner tubular look of the bike... almost like a steel frame with thin tubes


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

*Pics*

HERE ARE THE PICS. Sorry for the delay!


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

Is it my eyes, or does it really look like that front tire is almost scraping the fork? Looks like it is almost a real tight fit. Does not look like it can take much variety of tire sizes. The finish is beautiful! Nice bike aaguilar3


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

eb211 said:


> Is it my eyes, or does it really look like that front tire is almost scraping the fork? Looks like it is almost a real tight fit. Does not look like it can take much variety of tire sizes. The finish is beautiful! Nice bike aaguilar3


You're very correct! It is super close! Haven't encountered any issue with that though. I plan on upgrading to a fork with a shock later for sure though. Rigid is cool but some of the terrain i've been on would be smoother with a shock.


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

OH BTW I ordered the Avid DB1 yesterday for $72 with both rotors and hardware off ebay!


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

Almost looks like an hybrid road bike fork. Does the rear also have that tight clearance aaguilar3?


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

eb211 said:


> Almost looks like an hybrid road bike fork. Does the rear also have that tight clearance aaguilar3?


Not as tight as the front but still close.


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

Wow... I guess I would have to upgrade the fork, but that rear really worries me too since I do like to use a variety of tires that I happen to have available.


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

Guys, the more I study the geometry and layout of this frame, the more I see a road bike hybrid style type of frame. On most 29ers, the fork has more clearance from the tire to the inside of the fork tube, but this layout is so tight, thus causing the front of the bike to sit lower, and causing the bike's top tube to level out more instead of an aggressive angle. The frame is also reminiscent of the older vintage mountain bikes with the top tube sitting more leveled than angled. Interesting on why they would set the new models with such tight clearance of the tires from the front and the rear.


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

After looking again at the design, I am now seeing a longer head tube than most 29ers, thus I guess requiring a shorter fork. Interesting design... it is growing on me more and more. I actually like it!


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

eb211 said:


> After looking again at the design, I am now seeing a longer head tube than most 29ers, thus I guess requiring a shorter fork. Interesting design... it is growing on me more and more. I actually like it!


Lol. You're delving deep into this! lol. It's really a fun bike. Feels like a big bmx bike. I like the light feel of the whole thing. The front def needs a shock down the road though for the terrain I like and that's available around my area.


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## TampaDave (Mar 20, 2015)

Geometry looks OK to me. HTA is a bit steeper than we see on some 29ers but not way out of line (see Karate Monkey for example or niner SIR). Looks like fun actually.

The advantage being, there are all sorts of forks on the market that could work, as opposed to 29ers with slack hta that require a lot of offset. Bet you could slap a Karate Monkey fork on there just like that. 

Or, you could go 650b.... stuff a little more rubber in the back too maybe


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

After much headache dealing with brakes that won't properly center I'll be sending the bike back. I went to a lbs and I had the mechanic take a look at the rear brake. He mentioned that the dropout had too much up and down play. I also decided I need gears with the terrain I been dealing with. I decided to go with the giant talon 27.5 4. I also needed a front shock. I guess I must have gotten a lemon with the Nashbar..


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

aaguilar3, was it something to do with the frame being bent? Damn, and I just placed an order on the bike with a 25% off coupon.



aaguilar3 said:


> After much headache dealing with brakes that won't properly center I'll be sending the bike back. I went to a lbs and I had the mechanic take a look at the rear brake. He mentioned that the dropout had too much up and down play. I also decided I need gears with the terrain I been dealing with. I decided to go with the giant talon 27.5 4. I also needed a front shock. I guess I must have gotten a lemon with the Nashbar..


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

eb211 said:


> aaguilar3, was it something to do with the frame being bent? Damn, and I just placed an order on the bike with a 25% off coupon.


 I believe so. They guy mentioned something about the machining of the dropout. Could just have been a defective unit or got bent somewhere along the way. Let us know if you run into any issues. Nashbar is great with customer service and returns just in case.


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

Were the rear brake adapters loose? Did the mechanic say that it could probably be fixed with a different bolt adapter, or any other solutions? Or was it a hopeless situation?



aaguilar3 said:


> I believe so. They guy mentioned something about the machining of the dropout. Could just have been a defective unit or got bent somewhere along the way. Let us know if you run into any issues. Nashbar is great with customer service and returns just in case.


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

It definitely was not a hopeless situation. I really can't give much more technical info than what I posted since I'm new to the whole thing. It just sounded like if I ever needed to take the rear wheel off I was going to be spending some time to make sure everything was lined up and centered to stop the heavy brake rub on the outside pad. That and I realized I needed gears led me to give up on the bike. I'm sure if you're more technically inclined and know your bikes, which it sounds like you might, you might not have any issues. I really needed the support of a lbs in case I have issues I could ride down the road and get it fixed.


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

Got it. By the way, when you had yours shipped out to you, did you select the standard shipping for $14.99? How long did it take for your bike to arrive? Thanks



aaguilar3 said:


> It definitely was not a hopeless situation. I really can't give much more technical info than what I posted since I'm new to the whole thing. It just sounded like if I ever needed to take the rear wheel off I was going to be spending some time to make sure everything was lined up and centered to stop the heavy brake rub on the outside pad. That and I realized I needed gears led me to give up on the bike. I'm sure if you're more technically inclined and know your bikes, which it sounds like you might, you might not have any issues. I really needed the support of a lbs in case I have issues I could ride down the road and get it fixed.


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

eb211 said:


> Got it. By the way, when you had yours shipped out to you, did you select the standard shipping for $14.99? How long did it take for your bike to arrive? Thanks


Yes, standard shipping. When I purchased it was Totally free shipping. 20% off the bike. It took a couple days if I remember correctly. I ordered the 21st and it shipped the 22nd. I got it the 28th. I live in California. It shipped from OH. So 5 days for standard ground for me.


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

Great! I should be getting it pretty fast then since I live on the east coast in Va close to OH. The website said free shipping, but then I got a surprise of $14.99 overweight shipping item surcharge. I am going to have to nickel and dime them some more. I already got 25% off, but I was also charged taxes since they are owned by Performance, and we have a lot of Performance stores all over Va.



aaguilar3 said:


> Yes, standard shipping. When I purchased it was Totally free shipping. 20% off the bike. It took a couple days if I remember correctly. I ordered the 21st and it shipped the 22nd. I got it the 28th. I live in California. It shipped from OH. So 5 days for standard ground for me.


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## Jack_ (Feb 20, 2015)

@ aaguilar3 - sorry to hear you ran into the headaches, in your situation a good LBS will be a better option for you right now for sure. Keep you on the trails. Good to know Nash has good customer service like that.


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

Well, I can't wait to get my hands on mine. I ordered the XL size, so I assuming that the weight is somewhere around 28 pounds. I am wondering if I can bring the weight down to 23 pounds. What the heck, I have plenty of time on my hands anyways since I work from home. The first thing that is going to have to go is that fork... the stock fork looks heavy, and I do not like that tight tire clearance in the front. I am thinking about going with a carbon, or a lightweight aluminum fork. I know that most people do not like aluminum forks, but from my experience, I actually feel that aluminum forks are actually about as plush, if not plusher than Cr-Mo forks. Aluminum forks are also silly light. The pedals are going to have to go for some real lightweight platforms. The tires I hear are not too bad. I am curious about those Crucial Timeline wheels though... I wonder if they are pigs in weight. I noticed that the front wheel uses a quick release, which I find very interesting


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

Jack_ said:


> @ aaguilar3 - sorry to hear you ran into the headaches, in your situation a good LBS will be a better option for you right now for sure. Keep you on the trails. Good to know Nash has good customer service like that.


Yeah, it was unfortunate but I'm very happy with the service and bike I got from my LBS. Stopped in yesterday again to get some cleaning supplies and chain lube. Yes, very happy with Nash service also! I would have just exchanged for something else but I was not too convinced of gettting a diamondback. I had a Giant Hybrid before and loved it. I rode the new Giant yesterday and loved it also.


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

eb211 said:


> Well, I can't wait to get my hands on mine. I ordered the XL size, so I assuming that the weight is somewhere around 28 pounds. I am wondering if I can bring the weight down to 23 pounds. What the heck, I have plenty of time on my hands anyways since I work from home. The first thing that is going to have to go is that fork... the stock fork looks heavy, and I do not like that tight tire clearance in the front. I am thinking about going with a carbon, or a lightweight aluminum fork. I know that most people do not like aluminum forks, but from my experience, I actually feel that aluminum forks are actually about as plush, if not plusher than Cr-Mo forks. Aluminum forks are also silly light. The pedals are going to have to go for some real lightweight platforms. The tires I hear are not too bad. I am curious about those Crucial Timeline wheels though... I wonder if they are pigs in weight. I noticed that the front wheel uses a quick release, which I find very interesting


Wow, sounds like you have a lot planned! lol. XL?? How tall are you? I'm 6'1" and had the M and it was perfect.


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

I am 6.4, so I find that I am too constraint in a smaller frame. I would imagine the XL size is 21 or 22 inches, which is perfect for my height. Did you find the wheels to spin true out of the box? Did you find them being very heavy compared to other wheels on other bikes?



aaguilar3 said:


> Wow, sounds like you have a lot planned! lol. XL?? How tall are you? I'm 6'1" and had the M and it was perfect.


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## aaguilar3 (Apr 22, 2015)

eb211 said:


> I am 6.4, so I find that I am too constraint in a smaller frame. I would imagine the XL size is 21 or 22 inches, which is perfect for my height. Did you find the wheels to spin true out of the box? Did you find them being very heavy compared to other wheels on other bikes?


Oh ok. That might work then. Out of the box yes, they started to wobble a bit after a couple rides though. I can't really say on weight because I never had another similar bike and wheels size to compare it to. Sorry.


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

Well, received the bike on Thursday, and did not open the box until Saturday because I left town Thursday night. I have to say that for being an XL size frame, this is one lightweight bike. I weighed the bike, with the weight coming to 26.6 pounds, which is actually not bad for a size of this bike. I am amazed at how light the wheels are... I have to say that the weight of the wheels comes close to the weight of some of my higher priced 29ers. The seat and seatpost weighed about as much as the weight of my Thompson Elite seatpost alone without the seat! Both pedals weighed in at 11 oz. I already have a Salsa fork that is not cut yet, and the Salsa fork weighs in at 2.5 pounds, so that will be going on the bike. The reason I am changing out the stock forks is because of little tire clearance. I will weigh the fork once off the bike. I am really not seeing the need to weight weenie this bike even more since every part is light weight... I would have to buy some Carbon parts to bring the weight down a tad bit, but why? Going tubeless might bring down the weight, but maybe 2 pounds at the most? Nah... I will just install the Salsa fork, and beat the bike up just the way it is. I would say that if you are on the fence about buying this bike, I would just do it.


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

Update... stock fork weighs a hair under 3 pounds, cut. Not overly heavy, but the Salsa fork should weigh a little over 2 pounds when cut, maybe less since the tube has to be cut at least 3" to match the length of the stock post. Seat-post with seat attached weigh in at 1 pound- 9oz... which is pretty light for being a stock setup. By the way, the seat says Crucial, just like the seat post and the wheels. If you look under the seat, it says Velo. The seat-post is made by NL, whatever company that is, but pretty lightweight for a 400mm size post. I just wish I knew what the hell the name of the company that makes the wheels are. I am a little skeptical about that rear cog... looks kinda thin, but I feel it should be ok


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## TampaDave (Mar 20, 2015)

No, put a decent cog on there. Endless bike cogs are light and blingy, surly cogs are inexpensive and bulletproof, but don't go all cheap on us with some stamped steel POS that's probably already chewing up your hub


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## eb211 (Sep 25, 2014)

Well, the bike is down to exactly 26 pounds, so I am wondering if the crank-set has most of the weight on it, or maybe the tires. I am going to try to hit 23 pounds. Replacing all with carbon parts may shed 1 pound, but not really into all the carbon stuff. Maybe tubes and tires


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## haray (Jun 22, 2015)

Nashbar 29 single speed questions. I am 6-2, with a 34 inch inseam, the Nashbar techs seem to think i will be fine on the Large. My concern is how much seatpost i will need to get my saddle up to where i need it, again Nashbar said no problem. I have an old beat to heck Trek 800 mountain bike i have been riding all season with a singulator and i have had a blast. My riding is not technical at all, hard pack park trails, rails to trails type riding, and some single track, will this bike suit those needs? My last question, the old trek and even my Cervelo road bike fit fine in my car trunk with the back seat down, with the front wheel off do you think the 29er will be too big to get in my car? I have really researched this bike and any input would be much appreciated. Thanks,


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## csteven71 (Jan 15, 2009)

I have an XL 29 hardtail. It'll go in my 2006 jetta with both wheels removed and the seat down.


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## moonboy (Jul 3, 2015)

Just picked mine up on wednesday. pretty jazzed on it, but I want to swap bb and drivetrain out soon. could I fit a gxp?


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## biggamehunter78 (Jun 23, 2007)

Hi guys. I ordered this on Wednesday and it showed up yesterday afternoon!! I was shocked. Unboxed tonight and I was stoked with the quality of the frame. Can't wait to get it out. It will sure beat my converted Rocky Mountain Flow... Finally a real single speed! If this is the sweet spot between my SS Rocky and my Scale 940 I may never ride either of those again.

The question I do have is it seems they forgot my seat post clamp? There is a cheap plastic clamp and strip of rubber in the box, but there is no way that will tighten enough to clamp the seat in place. Is that what it's supposed to be, or did they forget to throw it in the box before it shipped?


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## moto120 (Sep 12, 2011)

Just picked up a returned 29er single speed from nashbar for the crazy price of $268.00.
The bike was repacked in a different box. The tires were in the box but not mounted to the wheels? (LOL). I guess the wheels were trued or someone was going to do a tubeless conversion? 
Bike went together fairly quickly, taking my time to re-grease everything.
Having owned the previous gold version of this bike, I have to say the new updated bike is better.
The crucial branded components add a little visual style to the bike.
For those that wondered, the nashbar logo is clear coated on the frame,not a decal.
The blueish grey metallic color looks great.
I took the bike for a first ride and it rode great. I'm really liking this bike.
If anybody has any questions regarding the bike, I'll be glad to answer them.


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## roofus (Apr 2, 2007)

Ok, I just got one in Large. Not a bad deal with coupon. (20% off) Got bike, extra tires (pythons) and 2 pairs of gloves cheaper than bike. Free shipping was $14.99 due to oversize charge. Build out was simple and things were as they should have been. Bike is light for what it is. Overall the Quality is Great. The tire clearance on the fork is odd. 2.1" is all you are going to run on this fork. Also could use a bottle cage mount on the seattube. So my first ride on this bike was a 2 day 100+ mile bikepacking trip! All in. I kept her completely stock for the trip. Used a Rack Time front rack that mounted perfect to the fork. Fully loaded bike was about 46lbs. Bike worked great.


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## noisebloom (Nov 5, 2015)

Just wanted to mention that today is the last day to take advantage of a 23% coupon Nashbar is offering. That gets this bike down from the regular $399 to $308 before shipping. I think the shipped price was $322 (not looking at it now).

I'm holding out for a used Redline Monocog, otherwise I might put some serious thought into this.


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## glambo (Jun 16, 2016)

"_After much headache dealing with brakes that won't properly center I'll be sending the bike back. I went to a lbs and I had the mechanic take a look at the rear brake. He mentioned that the dropout had too much up and down play...."_

I know this is old info, but I just got this bike a few months ago and I had the same issue. I couldn't for the life of me figure out what I was doing wrong because the rotor was rubbing no matter what. finally, I just decided that the easiest solution was to shave down the bracket that came with the brakes. luckily for me I have access to a mill and could shave .025" off the inside of each bracket. now theres clearance and some room to adjust.

the fork being so short is also an issue. the other day on a trickier descent I got a large rock jammed between my tire and the fork, forcing me to hop off and yank it out. im just glad I was going pretty slow at the time. I will be putting some kind of suspension fork on there.

im running tubeless with the stock wheels and tires without issue. the tires themselves leave a lot to be desired, as ive lost traction around multiple corners, causing the bike the kick out from under me. they roll really fast, but I think im asking too much from them the way im using them.

ive switched out the pedals for new flats, carbon seatpost, shorter stem, new grips, better saddle, raceface narrow-wide, bb7's, and running gorilla tape tubeless.

overall, im enjoying the hell out of this bike, especially for the price.


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## DG40 (Feb 5, 2014)

FYI. This bike is on sale TODAY ONLY for $240-
Just ordered mine


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## noisebloom (Nov 5, 2015)

DG40 said:


> FYI. This bike is on sale TODAY ONLY for $240-
> Just ordered mine


This checks out, thanks. With $14.99 shipping, the total price comes to just a hair under $255. This makes the bike almost irresistible.


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## Jammr (Oct 2, 2016)

*Nashbar carbon 29er MTB fork?*

Picked up one of these 29er SS's in medium a few weeks ago for my son. Not a bad bike for $300 (was $399 - 25% a few weeks ago) Threw on a good pair of pedals and had to play around with the brake alignment and it was ready to ride. I have a Bontrager Mustang Elite TLR front wheel with 2.2 Bontrager XR2 set up tubeless that came off my Trek Superfly SS when I upgraded the wheels and tires. I was planning on putting the front on the Nashbar
There isn't much clearance with the stock fork and also looking to save weight and I saw the Nashbar carbon 29er mtb fork was on sale for $149 so I ordered it and got it today. 
The problem I found is that I didn't think to check the axle to crown height and the carbon fork is 2" taller!!!!, axle to crown, then the stock fork. That's 50mm. I'll assume 50mm is a huge change and could have a negative effect. By increasing the fork length it will slacken the head and seat angles plus raise the bottom bracket as well as slightly increasing the wheelbase. This will have an effect on the handling of the bike, and will seat you slightly further behind the bottom bracket.

I see some put 80-100mm suspension forks on these bikes and assume these raise the front as well but not 50mm

So is it worth a try or send it back?

Nashbar Full Carbon 29er Fork___


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## Jammr (Oct 2, 2016)




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## JWall (Mar 22, 2012)

Howdy folks,

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead. I'm looking to pick up one of these older models (gold frame) from local CL to tool around on and see if I like SS. The trails I'm riding on are super easy, flat, occasional roots. That's about it. Maybe some singletrack along the foothills. What would you offer on this one? Anything to look out for, since this frame is at least 4 years old? I appreciate your insight!

https://albuquerque.craigslist.org/bik/5983441592.html


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## fos'l (May 27, 2009)

I purchased and built up an aluminum Nashbar frame for my wife seven years ago and a steel one for myself a couple of years ago; both are strong, straight and durable. They have a forever warranty AFAIK, so they make them to last.


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## grego1313 (Apr 10, 2017)

just wondering if you can convert these to have a 8,9,10 speed casette on the rear?


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

They come with geared free hub geared type rear wheel, but I'm not sure about a rear derailleur hanger. My gold aluminum framed version has cable stops on frame for front and rear derailleurs, but would need rear hanger. Just checked mine and still running SS with Redline chain tugs. Tons of fun at a great price!


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## grego1313 (Apr 10, 2017)

Thanks the info Natedogz. I found one for sale locally and wondered if I could add the derailleur bc its hilly(actually mountainous).


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

You're welcome! It's various terrain here, relatively flat, rolling hills and steep mountains, mostly I ride in between terrain on my SS and it's easier than you'd think if you're in good riding shape. Is this going to be your only bike, what's your riding like, budget? You could always use Shimano IGH (internal geared hub) to add gears, this also is lower maintenance than standard exposed rear derailleur. There are other companies (Alfine) making igh too, but more expensive than Shimano although supposedly nicer quality.


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## grego1313 (Apr 10, 2017)

This would actually be a 4th bike.lol I was thinking of thinning the herd. If it was gearded I could make it a almost do it all bike. Never even thought about a internal geared hub.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

Ok, then it's not as much problem if you don't like SS and yes IGH is clean and easy way to add gears. 

Edit, I have different bikes for different jobs lol.


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## Muxherdlr (Jul 9, 2011)

grego1313 said:


> Thanks the info Natedogz. I found one for sale locally and wondered if I could add the derailleur bc its hilly(actually mountainous).


My Nashbar SS came with a hanger, if I wanted to add a derailleur, so yes you can add gears..... Check Nashbar for availability of the hanger.


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## biker_soldier101 (Mar 15, 2014)

30% off today! Been really thinking about buying this bike but they only have it in small. I'm in between medium and small when it comes to fitting a bike. Just depends on the bike. Anyone around 5'6" want to chime in? 30" inseam. My concern is it will be too compact.


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## biker_soldier101 (Mar 15, 2014)

Bought it. $283 shipped. I got it in a small and it fits fine. Seatpost is almost too short. I could probably fit a medium too. Either way I am happy with how I fit. Was a little strange riding off road without suspension but I had fun.


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## SeaBass_ (Apr 7, 2006)

Collaborated with the parent's of one of my 13yr olds friends to get him one of these as I had gotten tired of constantly fixing his 60lb full suspension Walgoose. (I'm that Dad who fixes all the neighborhood kids bikes) I had it shipped to my house for assembly and we surprised him with it. Kid's been all grins when he rides it. 
For $274 shipped, it was a great deal.


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## Natedogz (Apr 4, 2008)

biker_soldier101 said:


> Bought it. $283 shipped. I got it in a small and it fits fine. Seatpost is almost too short. I could probably fit a medium too. Either way I am happy with how I fit. Was a little strange riding off road without suspension but I had fun.


Awesome, I would've said probably the medium. Yes, strange at first but love mine, like riding a big version of my kid bmx bike! 



SeaBass_ said:


> Collaborated with the parent's of one of my 13yr olds friends to get him one of these as I had gotten tired of constantly fixing his 60lb full suspension Walgoose. (I'm that Dad who fixes all the neighborhood kids bikes) I had it shipped to my house for assembly and we surprised him with it. Kid's been all grins when he rides it.


Awesome, can't beat the price and features, smiles/miles per dollar is aweseom!

I'm looking at switching out to better 32H wheelset, but want SS specific with butted spokes. Really liked the WTB Laserdisc 29er wheels (622x21c) with freehub that came stock on my Haro Mary, but sold that bike long ago. It seems that many of these SS specific wheels have dried up, wth?

What's the sweet price point for nice set of SS specific rims these days?


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