# What have you done to your commuter today?



## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Instead of clogging up other threads with the minor stuff that we have done, from adding or swapping parts to maintenance stuff, I thought we could put it all here.

Just got home from the local bike shop. I went in for help. I admitted defeat. I didn't want to ruin the snap ring holding my 18t cog on, and since this is a custom wheel, wasn't sure if I would damage it or not, so I took it to the pros. 18t was causing me to spin out, so I picked up a 16t which is what came on the bike originally. I was sure that I could install it myself. I was wrong. Mechanic at the shop not only did it, but showed me how to do it in case I need to remove it in the future. Not only did he do it once, he showed me a couple of times, giving me a small tip and trick along the way. Service like that is just invaluable for someone like me, who is learning. This is my first single speed, my first coaster brake since I was a kid, my first true attempt at doing stuff on my own. Always had a good buddy show me, and do stuff for me, but I want to be self sufficient. Turns out he is big into coaster brake bikes, and is working on a really old Schwinn that he is turning fakie track bike like mine. Having someone like that working less than 2 miles from me is simply invaluable. 

Leveled out the handlebars on my singlespeed. They were slightly elevated, and I could feel it while riding. Gave the bars a weird feel to them, and I couldn't find a comfortable hand position. This should help quite a bit. I am also test fitting the Speedzone Wireless computer for the rear wheel. I have an Aerospoke up front, so I am hoping that this rear setup will work. Have not quite figured out where I will mount it, or how, but I am in the test fitting stages and brainstorming.

Removed and re-greased the pedals. I went a little conservative on it when I first installed them, not being sure if I would try flats or my SPD's. I thought that I was getting a little squeek from the left one, so those came off and were attended to.

Removed the flats from my TriCross and put the SPD's back on. Buddy of mine rode it last, and he didn't have biking shoes with him, so flats went on. They look weird on the bike. I learned not to overtighten them and to carefully thread them on when installing. 

It is in the mid 20's, and we have a combination of a few inches of snow and ice almost everywhere. It isn't supposed to melt quite yet. I don't have the proper bike for the weather and I haven't ridden in 3 weeks. I am on day 6 of 7 working this week. I am using my bike maintenance as my calming zen time and it is relaxing me. Taking the time to learn and figure stuff out the best that I can.


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## KentheKona (Jul 6, 2013)

I tried to remove and grease my pedals the other day. I had to heat them up with a grill lighter and I still couldn't get the non-drive side off (I do know about the reverse threading haha), did get the drive side off luckily. I might try again tomorrow.

I have to find a place to mount a bell on the bike tomorrow. Got it as a gift after commenting that its the law to have one, so if I ever got hit they'd find some way to blame it on me not having a bell.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

I leveled the bars. Made a big dif.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Broke my handlebars:



Thankfully they didn't actually break, but I was in the middle of a nice 3hr ride today, when I noticed the very large crack. It made for a pretty subdued ride home.

It sucks because I love those bullmoose bars, and love my current setup. So the hunt for a new bullmoose is on. I got these at the co-op, and should be able to find another pair eventually, but the co-op is currently moving so it might be a few months, and they just junked most of their excess inventory in preparation for the move. I've got a quill>threadless adapter so I can use some spare bars/stems I've got lying around, but it just won't be the same.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Prepping for rides tomorrow and later next week.

After my last ride, I noticed my front fender was out of alignment, rubbing on the tire. Probably because I put the bike in my car last time I rode it, and bent a fender stay a little bit. 

Sat down with a wrench and got it re-aligned. Also checked the drivetrain over and whatnot. My ride tomorrow will be snow-free and quite possibly will be in the 40's for at least part of it. Next week, there might me some snow on the route, but I have no idea how much to expect.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

In addition to breaking my handlebars, I also tried fixiestraps for the first time today. I've got really grippy platforms with big and chunky boots, and getting my foot into the straps while moving was next to impossible. It took 3 or 4 full pedalstrokes with me staring down at my pedals before I could wriggle my foot all the way in. Once I actually got strapped in I had two crashes that wouldn't have otherwise happened.

I decided that snow riding is unpredictable enough, and that doing it fixed and strapped in was a bad plan. So the straps came off after about 10km. I know there's a learning curve and it would eventually become second nature, but I think it'll have to wait until spring when I'm wearing skateshoes again.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

newfangled said:


> Broke my handlebars. Thankfully they didn't actually break, but I was in the middle of a nice 3hr ride today, when I noticed the very large crack. It made for a pretty subdued ride home.


They look weldable to me. You could paint, powder coat, or re-chrome them. Know anybody that repairs steel bike frames?


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

BrianMc said:


> They look weldable to me. You could paint, powder coat, or re-chrome them. Know anybody that repairs steel bike frames?


I got them for $5 at the co-op, and I should be able to find a replacement but it will take a bit of time. I'm sure they were originally just off some cheap sears or canadiantire bike from the 80s, and aren't worth welding or the hassle of rechroming. The only special thing about these was that they didn't have a brake hanger, and the chrome was in good shape. Most the bullmoose at the co-op have a hanger, and a lot are pretty beaten up. It's just annoying because if they'd broken a month I'd have had a bunch to choose from (and now that I know to watch for this I'll probably try to get an extra bar or two for reserve). I'm just glad I didn't seriously injure myself, which could certainly have been a possibility.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Did all final adjustments on my rear wheel placement. Very tricky with this coaster brake setup. I am a little OCD that the wheel is not completely centered on these horizontal dropouts. Then I worry that the chain is too loose, so I redo it. Then the chain is too tight, and I redo it again. Finally got it after messing with it for about 30 minutes. Looks to be dead on center, and the chain is not too loose, or too tight. There is some play in it, but not too much. So, what do you do after that? TEST RIDE!!!! 41 degrees here, and the snow and ice is gone from the streets. Still wet out, but hey, I was in a t-shirt and track pants test riding it up the street at the end of December in Michigan. No complaints as I rode up and down the street just checking play and the brake, and just how it felt overall, listening for any rubbing or something I missed. Brought it in, and of course, had to clean it off again. Owning a white bike was a great idea, before I had it. Riding on wet roads is a nightmare. Keeping it clean is work in itself. If I could do it again, I would go with either black or blue I think. The fact that the frame is solid white with no logos or decals really makes dirt and scuffs stand out.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Today I swapped my broken bullmoose for a modern flatbar and stem:


The flatbar came with my 29er but I don't think I've ever used it. It's a very close match to the bullmoose, but with a 90mm/6deg stem the bar is about an inch lower and an inch closer. It'll work until I find a new bullmoose, but the chunky modern stem and 31.8 bar look pretty goofy with the old frame.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

So.....I found my stem that I have been searching for. It is on the UK eBay. Contacted seller via email. Seller does not ship to the US per listing. Begging him to please ship here. Anyone have any trustworthy friends that would be willing to be a third party in the transaction? They would be compensated for their time and effort.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Peeled the Aerospoke decals off of the front wheel. I will probably turn the bathtub into a dipping booth, and spray it with Plasti-Dip on my next day off. The wheel was purchased used, and it shows some sign of wear. Thinking that I might go with a crazy color instead of black, but not sure which one. The best part is that if I don't like it, I can just peel it right off. I also finally placed one decal on the bike itself for the head badge. The bike came naked with a sheet of brand decals for the end user to place. Still have not decided on if or how I will use the rest.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Might be purchasing a bike more suited for winter commuting. Trying to work a deal out with the seller.


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## ghettocruiser (Jun 21, 2008)

I failed to replace worn parts in a timely manner.

The bike is now unrideable until I replace the entire drivetrain, which means I am stuck riding my carbon hardtail to work in the slush this week.

Ugh.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

What parts did you fail to replace? Entire drive train is shot now?


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

A axle tug makes it a lot easier to align the rear wheel


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I have those on the bike if you are referring to my wheel placement. Still figuring out exactly how those work.


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## ghettocruiser (Jun 21, 2008)

TenSpeed said:


> What parts did you fail to replace? Entire drive train is shot now?


Chain wear has reached unsightly proportions, about 13.5" for a 12-link run.

Chainrings, cogs, and probably the derailleur pulleys are now pretty much toothless. The BB is questionable as well.

I have lightly used replacement parts waiting in the basement from the last overhaul of my race bike, but I've been lazy.


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## ghettocruiser (Jun 21, 2008)

TenSpeed said:


> What parts did you fail to replace? Entire drive train is shot now?


Chain wear has reached unsightly proportions, almost 13" for a 12-link run.

Chainrings, cogs, and probably the derailleur pulleys are now pretty much toothless. The BB is questionable as well.

I have lightly used replacement parts waiting in the basement from the last overhaul of my race bike, but I've been lazy.


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## Sanath (Jul 20, 2012)

How is that even possible without just breaking the rollers? Do you ride a recumbent with an 800 mile chain?


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Didn't really like the look of my modern flatbar so I pulled out a northroad bar and tried it on the fixie:


It was terrifying. We've had freezing rain on top of hardpack, and sitting bolt-upright does not feel stable. My hardtail has a Mary bar which I really like and which is really similar, so I think the stem might be the problem.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

In the last few days, I've replaced the rear derailleur and derailleur cable, upgraded brake pads, and today I'll be replacing the rear wheel with a Velocity Deep V 36H. I need to spend some time with the front derailleur and find out why it doesn't want to cooperate, but I just don't have it. The rest of the month is going to be full of 80 hr work weeks, and the last thing on my mind is going to be that, although it's something that really should be done. Perhaps I can carve out a bit of time tonight to sit down, replace the cable, and get it all worked out.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Swapped out my stem with an apparently hard to find one that I got from a local forum in MINT condition, only to realize that I didn't think about the actual height of the stem. Sold a big box of random mtb parts, including, yep, you guessed it, headset spacers. Will have to make a trip to the local shop tomorrow to pick a few up. Not that smart on my part. Not that I can ride it right now with the 12-14" of snow that is forecasted as a total for today. Hoping that I can get the right size to complete the bike. No more mods for this bike. This is the last one. I have more in the added parts than the bike cost me. 

Bike - 420 shipped to my door in perfectly rideable condition.

Mods:

Specialized Armadillo tires (2) + tubes (2) - $100
Used Aerospoke front wheel - $220
Custom built rear wheel with coaster brake - $160
Slightly used Specialized Avatar saddle from a friend - $50
Fyxation track grips and bar caps - $35
Slightly used KORE stem - $30
Shimano M520 pedals - $50
Shimano 16t cog - $5

For a cheap bike, I cleared $1000 already. That makes me a little sick.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

TenSpeed said:


> For a cheap bike, I cleared $1000 already. That makes me a little sick.


If it helps, if you wanted to build a bike from scratch I think it's pretty tough to do for under $1000. I did an itemized rundown in a thread a couple of months ago, and it's surprising how all of the little $30~50 items add up.

frame $200
fork $100
wheels $200
tires $100
cranks+bb	$100
pedals $40
seatpost+clamp	$40
saddle $40
headset $40
bar $40
stem+spacers $40
grips	$15
cog $5

That's $960 for no brakes, shifters or derailleurs (and cheap wheels). Some of those prices could definitely be lower or higher, but $1,000 is what I'd budget for any custom build.


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

TenSpeed said:


> I have more in the added parts than the bike cost me.
> 
> Bike - 420 shipped to my door in perfectly rideable condition.
> 
> For a cheap bike, I cleared $1000 already. That makes me a little sick.


:lol:
Yeah, it sucks, but if it doesn`t kill you you can get a good laugh out of it. Newf is right. If you can`t get an off-the-shelf bike spec`d like you want it (and you won`t find a new one like yours), it`s gonna cost you. If it`s any consolation, my favorite bike was free when it came into my hands, and I dumped probably $800 into it before I ever put it to use, then quite a bit more since. Not necessary by any means, but it`s how I want it and it`s MINE.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Tenspeed, consider it money spent on your transportation budget, your hobby budget, and your health/fitness budget, that's only about $300 each. 

I got off cheap (so far) today with just some lube for the rain/freezing rain.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

I got a box from pricepoint... gathering parts for a swappable flat-bar conversion for my drop-bar commuter... I'm going to rig up a complete cockpit on a flat bar, including stem and cables, so I can just unhook the cables from brakes and derailleurs, and go from drop bar to flat bar in just a couple minutes. Full length cable housings everywhere should make it easy... a few zip ties for the cables, then stem bolts and brake/derailleur cable tension...should be a quick swap once I get it dialed in.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I know that you guys are right, but when it is laid out like that, I get a little upset thinking about the cash spent. And no, that bike couldn't be bought the way I bought it off the shelf. Worst part is....I am looking at another bike, for a total of 3. If the price comes down, I will be all over it.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

My wife said the same thing yesterday, as I convinced her that I'm in need of a Velocity Deep V 36H. While it probably would have been cheaper in the long run to have purchased a used bike from a reputable bike shop, I wouldn't have gained the experience (or spare parts) that I have now.


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## ghettocruiser (Jun 21, 2008)

Did the overhaul that I felt compelled to double-post about last week. 

BB was actually okay, if a little wet inside. Rear derailleur was somehow all bent. I had an extra M960 cage that fit the M970 derailleur, and it now looks pretty straight. 

I think the used chain is not stretched enough to mesh with the used cogs, and was skipping this morning. 

I will try a slightly more worn chain (from my basement library of used chains) tonight.


As you guys may have surmised, the budget for this overhaul is $0.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I'm having the same problem with chain skip. I think it's due to a bent link. I'll be taking it out when I get back to the office this evening. It should be fine without one link.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Installed a small bar for holding a light. It's intended to replace the nut on a quick release, but since they use a 5 x 0.8mm thread pitch, it did nicely with a longer bolt threaded through the back end into a braze-on.

There's some occlusion of the light by the tire, but it picks out potholes way better, which is great, since half of my commute is on unlit roads.


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## ghettocruiser (Jun 21, 2008)

The older chain worked without skipping on the way in today.

Which is good, since roadside adjustments at -20C are something I like to avoid.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

It just doesn't stop. Found a really nice carbon Easton road fork for my fakie for a really good price, and it is local. How can I pass this up? Longer steerer tube than what I have, so it will get my bars up a little more. Will still need to be cut I think.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

New fenders came in today. I doubt I'll get around to installing them until later in the week when the temps are more reasonable.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Got the fork, and I am going to have to take it to the shop I think. I don't have the equipment to cut a carbon fork, and I want to make sure that the star nut and crown race are installed correctly. Really nice fork though, Easton EC70 Superlite. Wish that I could get the red and yellow decal off but it looks like it is cleared right over them.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Checked the chain for "stretch", it is just about done. Don't forget yours!


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## Neurotic OCD (May 8, 2013)

mtbxplorer said:


> Checked the chain for "stretch", it is just about done. Don't forget yours!


No kidding. I neglected to do this on my road bike commuter which I just bought in June '13. I put 3,200 miles on it in just a few months and then noticed that the chain was not only far over-stretched, but that it had also destroyed the 54T chain ring and some of the cogs on the cassette.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Already dropped it off at the shop. They like where I am going with this setup. Will be a bit more than I thought, since I am opting for the carbon spacers.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I changed some tubes. Does that count?


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Absolutely. Anything maintenance related or upgraded counts. You need tubes right?


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Actually, I just finished patching said tube, and adding some tire liners. I can't freakin' wait for payday to slap some Armadillo treads and call it a day. Never had this problem on the 26'er. Thorn resistant slime tubes and Armadillo tires. Bring it on!

This mess is killing me.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I have the Armadillos on both of my bikes, and so far, I love them. Shop called me, apparently the 25 I had on there will not properly clear the fork, so a 23 is on there now instead. Sure, why not? It is only money right? I guess I will keep it for a spare for the rear in case I wear it out or destroy it.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Replaced the bearings in two of my outboard BBs. Never done it before, but it was easy enough with a cheap tool (although I think I got mine for $20).

FSA BB was easy, and the tool worked great. Stupid shimano BB cups are manufactured with a lip (raceface does it too) to prevent easily pounding out the old bearing. I used a punch and worked it out, but it's still an annoying and (as far as I can tell) totally useless way to do things.


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

As soon as the sun comes around bike is getting a much needed bath. The roads are slop so it's somewhat moot, but that white crust is just unsightly.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

^^ I washed mine the other day, then put it in the garage... apparently I got a bit of water in a brake cable somehow (full length housing too), because after a few minutes out on the road in the cold, I hit the rear BB7 and it acted like an E-brake. There was no releasing :lol: I had to get off the bike and push the cable back using the caliper at the brake end. Beware the frozen brake cable. 


We had a slight threat of freezing rain last night, so I pulled the studded wheels off of the singlespeed (did some frozen lake playing over Christmas) and put the cassette back on, just so they'd be on standby for a quick swap in the morning. Didn't need 'em...


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

CommuterBoy said:


> ^^ I washed mine the other day, then put it in the garage... apparently I got a bit of water in a brake cable somehow (full length housing too), because after a few minutes out on the road in the cold, I hit the rear BB7 and it acted like an E-brake. There was no releasing :lol: I had to get off the bike and push the cable back using the caliper at the brake end. Beware the frozen brake cable.


Never Had that happen....but mine is a heated garage....

I also run the XTR cables with the little rubber boot seals.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

It was warm enough in the garage...no brake drama going down my dirt road or in the first couple miles, so it must have frozen up with the cold and wind chill on the ride. This was a first for me too.


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## woodway (Dec 27, 2005)

I swapped out my front BB7 mechanical disc brake for a TRP Brakes HY/RD mechanically-actuated hydraulic disc brake and took the new brake on a 44 mile ride in the rain yesterday.

The summary report is that the HY/RD brake works very well. The braking action is not as good as a full hydraulic disc brake, but it's better than a straight BB7.

Here is the HY/RD brake next to the BB7 that it replaced. The HY/RD is slightly larger, but it did not interfere with the fender stay on the bike and mounting was easy.










I read a couple of HY/RD reviews complaining that the brakes were too heavy, so I weighed the HY/RD and the BB7 that I took off the bike. The BB7 weighed 167g, the HY/RD 194g. In pounds that is 0.368 vs. 0.427. Not much of a difference and not one you will notice when the brake is mounted onto the bike.

Installation was easy. HY/RD comes with the caliper, a rotor and two different size mounting brackets. I pulled the existing BB7 bracket off and compared it to the equivalent HY/RD bracket and they look to be exactly the same. I used the HY/RD bracket but in retrospect I could have just left the BB7 bracket on the bike. I did not swap out rotors, electing to stay with the Avid Clean Sweep rotor that comes with the BB7.

The HY/RD caliper does require longer brake cable length than the BB7. When I installed my BB7 brakes I left a long enough pigtail that I did not have to install a new cable, but if you cut your pigtail short on your BB7, you won't be as lucky.

Here are a couple of photos with the brake mounted (you can just see a little bit of brake cable sticking out of the bottom on the first photo):



















Setup was easy, I followed the directions and it took about five minutes to get the brake cable tight and the caliper bolts tightened.

The instructions say that it will take 30-40 good braking actions to fully bed the pads, and I probably have not reached that stage yet, but I could really feel the difference between the HY/RD on the front and the BB7 on the back. The HY/RD action was firmer and modulation of the braking action was smoother.

The brakes did howl a bit at first (I was riding in the rain) but the further I got into the ride, the more the brakes quieted down and by the end they were operating quietly.

I REALLY like that the pads self-adjust for wear and self-center. I won't miss having to constantly tweak the BB7 pad adjusters.

I am using the brakes with SRAM double-tap brifters and I dislike how far into the bar you have to pull the brake lever for full braking. I'm going to do a little more tweaking of the system today and see of I can make that better.

All-in-all, I like the HY/RD well enough that I am going to buy another one for the rear.


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

^^Thanks for that write up. I hadn`t heard of those hybrid systems until you mentioned this purchase. Surprised it gives you the modulation improvement because I always figured that benefit of hydraulics was due to the lack of long steel cable and housing. And of course I`m a serious expert on bicycle disc brakes :lol:


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^ I never heard of those either - interesting!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

It is done now. It has to be. Picked it up from the shop earlier, and am really happy with how everything turned out. The guys at the local shop that I go to are really cool, each one into a different style of biking. I really enjoy talking to Tom, who like me, really likes the coaster brake. He plans on turning a few of his old bikes into track bikes with coasters. He did the work on my bike and is really into it.

Picked up this really nice but slightly used Easton EC70 Superlite carbon fork from my local forum for $50. The fork is great because it has a lot more steerer tube than the stock fork which was almost slammed and put the bars a little low for me. Tom found the factory specs and cut the new fork to an appropriate length giving me far more options to work with. Got the KORE stem from the same forum for $30, which is in near mint condition. Had to drop down to a 23 tire up front to work with the fork, but oh well. Shouldn't be much of a difference I don't think.

Now, the next thing might not go over well. In keeping with this whole "fakie" theme that I am rolling with, I ordered decals from eBay. So, I now have a true fakie. Titus doesn't make road bikes, or commuter bikes, just mountain bikes. The reason I went with Titus is that my last mountain bike was a Titus Racer X 29 FS that I picked up after a really bad crash that I had that put me off the bike for some time physically and mentally. The Titus got me back into biking, and I loved that bike. I didn't own it for long, and decided that mountain biking wasn't really for me any more. I ended up selling it and getting my TriCross on the same day. Well, I never stopped thinking about that Titus, and would get another in a heartbeat if I could afford one. That Titus put me back in the right frame of mind to keep riding, and I won't forget it. This is a tribute of sorts to that bike. I loved it, and I love this bike, so it makes sense for me. I regret selling it every day, but I needed a bike better suited for commuting and was more road oriented.

Done. The only original parts now are the seatpost, crank, headset, chain and handlebars.




























And one of the Racer X just because....(shot before the rear brake hose was cut to fit - brake swap from another bike)


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## Medic Zero (Jun 8, 2011)

.

"What have you done to your commuter today?"

Looked sadly at it as I went out to the car we have borrowed right now. I'd prefer to ride, but I hurt my back and really hurt my shoulder moving furniture. Looks like I'll be lucky to get more than a handful of miles this month, because as messed up as they both still are, I should take at least another week and probably two off from riding.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Sorry to hear you're hurt, Medic Zero! Hang in there, some rest sounds like the best idea.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Yesterday I slapped on those Armadillo slick street treads. I'm in love! Grippy as can be, great rolling tread, and not a single flat. A buddy of mine has them on his fixie, and he said he's got more than 3,000 miles on them. I'm picking up a cheap tool box to mount on my rack as a trubk bag, and possibly doing the kitty litter hardside pannier thing, although my bags work just fine. 

I'm really looking for the opportunity to strip it down to the frame and fork and painting it. Its an 200u that I bought used, so there are nicks and scratches and all of that. I want to do a flat black with glitter blue striping and custom graphics.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

The Armadillos are a great tire. I have them on both of my bikes. My TriCross came with Bourough CX Armadillo Elites, and they are perfect for the road. The shop I go to has one that a customer brought in, literally wore the tire down to the casing. Still holds air.

That paint job sounds like it will be pretty interesting, and I hope that you post pics of it.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

I installed the skype mechs on my CX bike after riding bb7s and really noticed the lack of fade and improved modulation due to the dual piston design vs. the bb7 single piston. I just wish i could run a 140mm rotor up front using IS tabs.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Was at the shop, and of course I can't leave empty handed. 

Replaced my Blackburn Flea 2.0 rear light with a Serfas UTL-6 Thunderbolt. I cannot believe how bright this light is. I am set now for my commute I think. That was one of the last things that I wanted to look into, and well, my friend works there, and impulse control fails me....

Now, I just need the weather to cooperate a bit more.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

TenSpeed said:


> Was at the shop, and of course I can't leave empty handed.
> 
> Replaced my Blackburn Flea 2.0 rear light with a Serfas UTL-6 Thunderbolt. I cannot believe how bright this light is. I am set now for my commute I think. That was one of the last things that I wanted to look into, and well, my friend works there, and impulse control fails me....
> 
> Now, I just need the weather to cooperate a bit more.


I run a Thunderbolt in the back as well, and it's great. The coverage that it gives is phenomenal, on the low setting, it gives a true 9 hr run time (I forgot to kill it one morning, walked into the back room after work to head home and it was still going), and it fits almost anywhere. I'd like to get a white one to run as a front blinkie, but I'm thinking of just replacing the whole front light all together with one that offers a flashing option. Currently, I only have a high/low after smashing my MagicShine clone in a wipe out the day before thanksgiving. Hoping to replace it with something similar soon, rather than a WalMart flashlight.

Just picked up a Stanley tool box to sit on the back rack as a trunk bag of sorts. Hoping to get that slapped on tonight. I'll post a few picks when I'm done.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I looked at the front light option as well. I like my NiteRider Lumina and it wasn't cheap. I wouldn't mind adding the front light maybe on the downtube aimed at the ground to make the bike more visible possibly, spotlighting the front wheel?

I would like to see that toolbox mounted, I have an idea in my head how it will look, but am curious to see if that really is how it will be.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

No dice with the tool box. Instead of going with my gut feeling and getting the smaller 12 inch box, I grabbed the 16. Well, the lid is too wide, and catches on the bottom of the saddle. I'll be going to return it tomorrow and get the smaller one.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Will this be a permanent mount, or removable? And what will you be using it for?


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I'd like it to be a removable thing, but I cant figure out how to mount it as such. If I could I'd be all over it. It will carry my every day riding stuff like tools, tube, and that sort of thing, along with lunch, wallet, and blah blah blah.


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## Medic Zero (Jun 8, 2011)

mtbxplorer said:


> Sorry to hear you're hurt, Medic Zero! Hang in there, some rest sounds like the best idea.


Thanks! Yeah, rest is the smart thing, but I _want_ to ride. Feel like I'm cheating when I drive, especially since I seriously need to lose some weight and it's about the only excercise I get anymore.

ALthough, I might've bagged yesterday and today anyway, given the high winds were right about at my cut-off point.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Going nuts here in anticipation of my first commute of the year. Changed out the battery in my Speedzone wireless computer. That was interesting, because I ended up having to reset the thing. Good thing I wanted to zero everything out and start fresh this year. Broke my riding glasses trying to change the lens out from orange to yellow. Stupid mistake of mine, and luckily I ended up salvaging the whole thing with a one time use Krazy Glue that I happened to have. I had a pair of Scattante yellow lens glasses that I got at Performance Bike that I really liked, but I pulled them out of the case to use them, and somehow they were snapped in half so I trashed them. 

Swapped out the saddle on my TriCross from the stock 155 BG Riva Plus to a 143 Specialized BG Rival that I have broken in very nicely from an older Specialized Camber Comp FSR that I had. The 155 is too wide for me, and the 143 fits absolutely perfect. Forgot to write down exactly where I had it mounted, and when I realized it, too late, the saddle had moved. I may have to mess with it a bit tomorrow, and I will write it down when I get it just right.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Mounted the new 12 inch tool box to the rear rack last night. I'm digging it. I've got some blue spray paint to take care of the yellow. I'm dying for the opportunity to strip everything down and paint the bike, but being a daily commuter with no way to get to work on a regular basis otherwise (I can get the wife and kids up every once in awhile for a ride, but when I have to leave at 0530, three kids ain't too happy about it). I'm dying for a flat black with bright metallic blue accents, and blue cable housing. I also have plans to use my wife's Cricut Cutter to make a stencil in a font that I like to spray "Drink Beer Ride Bikes" on my pannier bag in bright blue, to make it look a little more put together, instead of my silver Sharpie escapade. 

I also adjusted the angle of the stem to a more upright position, since I'm not a racer, and can drop it down with ease whenever I plan on doing a long weekend ride or what have you. I'm not worried too much about the drag, since I can still easily average 16-18 mph, which is perfect for me.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Forgot to add a new pic


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Spent the last couple of days finalizing the pompino/townie build. The mungo bar im using has 50mm of drop which is making it tough to get the high enough using just spacers and a 110mm 8-10 degree stem. I must have scoured the interwebs looking a moustache bar with no drop but only came across a $90 nitto bar with 25.4 drop. So i bought a 110mm 15 degree stem for $30. I know this will work but the aesthetics are going to suffer. I figure if i cant deal with the aesthetics ill return the stem and reinstall the cowbell 2 bar i had on there before mounted higher up. Rode it to the train station this morning. The seat - bar drop/seat angle is making things kinda uncomfortable but the bike worked like its supposed to.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

So Woodway's post about the fancy hydromechs prompted me to finally fix my bb7s on the weekend.

The front has been rubbing a lot recently, and ever since switching to dropbars 3 months ago I've never been 100% with how sloppy the pad spacing is. (it's not a shortpull/longpull issue - more just ergonomics where I don't mind the sloppiness with normal levers, but it feels excessive with the drops)

So I spent _hours_ truing my front rotor.

I got it close fairly quickly, but then it all went off the rails and just got worse and worse.

In the wee hours of the morning I decided the rotor was @#$%ed and finally gave up.

Went to shop.

Bought new rotor.

New rotor also not true. :madman:

Spent more hours truing it. Should have just taken it back.

Hate. So. Much.

The plus side is that things are now greatly improved over when I started. But it's so frustrating. And the spring retention system avid uses can be such a finicky piece of garbage.

I also now have a spare 180mm rotor that is almost certainly salvagable, and a bike that could I could put it on. But I'd have to find a way to true it without going insane.


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## moxnix (Nov 19, 2011)

New rear rack, Ortleib panniers, Schwalbe Hurricane tires, rear fender (unknown brand) sourced by lbs.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I feel your pain about the rotors and BB7's. I got my wheel taken care of today, went to reinstall it, and now there is so much drag on the rear caliper. I messed with it for over an hour, couldn't get the pads out, tried and tried to readjust it. I got fed up, took the wheel off, removed the rotor, and reinstalled. Gonna ride just a front brake to work today. I am about fed up with brakes. I can see why people make the move to fixed gear/coaster brakes. It is just so much more simple. I have had brake issues on almost every bike I have owned now. Shifting is a bit off as well, so I am just gonna find a gear that rolls smoothly, and single speed it to work. Just one of those really frustrating days that makes you want to scream!


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ my hardtail has some cheap Hayes mechs that came with the bike when it was originally a Giant (and since I just replaced the wheels, they are now the only part that's left from when it was a Giant)

Every so often my vanity says "You should replace those with something cool." But they have been completely and utterly hassle-free compared to my @#$% BB7s. And if I swapped to the bigger rotor they'd probably be almost as powerful too. (But right now just the thought of truing that spare rotor is threatening to give me an aneurysm).


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Did some MTB maintenance this weekend. I had slashed a sidewall, so I ordered a new tire...and while I was at it I ordered some brake pads too (Hayes NINE hydraulics that have been awesome for at least 5 years. Changing those pads is such a pleasure I almost want to do it again. I have done nothing to those brakes in 5 years, no pads, no bleeding, nothing... 5 minutes to replace the pads on both brakes, and they're like new again. Self centering, zero adjustment. Just awesome. 

Rode the MTB to work today, so this was "commuter" maintenance. haha. 

I have BB7's on the Ogre... 180 rotor up front, 160 rear. They are awesome, but they do take a little adjustment when I switch wheelsets (studded tires on separate wheels with different rotors)


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Changed that chain that was due, got 7 months out of the KMC, and 6 out of the SRAM before that. Probably not really a repeatable difference, probably just variability in miles, conditions, and my vigilance. New chain measured <0 on the Park Chain Checker, meaning those measuring pins would not even fit in. I think I've checked that before and didn't get that result, but ?? Maybe the tighter tolerance means it will last longer. It's a pretty and pricey black and brass Connex, though, so it would have to last twice as long to be a better value, dollar-wise.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Swapped my bars for Salsa Cowbells yesterday, as well as installed inline barrel adjusters, since with v-brakes and drop levers, there was no way to easily adjust cable tension.

So far, the bars are quite nice after a few rides. Shallow drops, fairly short reach, and plenty of bar space about. They aren't quite round bend; they have just a hint of an anatomic bend.

Just before today's ride, installed the Brooks tape I got for Christmas. First impressions: it's much more solid than cork tape. I was initially concerned that the tape, like a new saddle, would be slippery, but the firmness of the tape actually helps quite a bit there, with the very well defined spirals providing a nice grip. I have high hopes, after talking to someone who has now had their tape on for over two years.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

wschruba said:


> ...as well as installed inline barrel adjusters, since with v-brakes and drop levers, there was no way to easily adjust cable tension.


Hey, I just did that too. Even with discs I was finding that I missed the really fine adjustments possible with a barrel adjuster.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I almost ate it today after making a right turn and starting to climb a steep but short hill. I don't know if my chainring caused the skip or what, but something gave out while I was trying to accelerate while standing. I jolted forward and my right foot hit the pavement. I managed to keep the bike upright, but I had to make a quick detour to the ditch to get everything situated again. I need to evaluate my equipment to see if anything is wearing out.

Weather was rainy but warm. I didn't have fenders on my geared bike until Sunday, so I'm glad to have had those.


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## woodway (Dec 27, 2005)

woodway said:


> All-in-all, I like the HY/RD well enough that I am going to buy another one for the rear.


Follow-up to my original post above. I've done some more tuning of the HY/RD brake and now have over 100 miles on it in both wet and dry conditions. I'm a very happy camper and will definitely be dumping my rear BB7 and purchasing another HY/RD when I get some cash together.

A little more detail: After installing the HY/RD brake I was unhappy with how far I had to pull in the brake lever before the pads engaged. I decided that I made a mistake trying to reuse a marginally-long front brake cable because I was not able to get all the slack out of the system, something that the installation manual emphasizes as important. I installed a new cable and really tightened everything up.

This improved the pad contact point, but still not as good as I wanted.

As I was looking at solutions, I noticed that the HY/RD rotor was THICKER than the Avid BB7 rotor that I had left on the bike. Given how little the pads actually move during brake actuation and the fact that the hydraulic system is self adjusting, I realized that even a slightly thicker rotor was going to make a difference in pad contact point and lever pull. I swapped in the HY/RD rotor and the system is just beautiful to use now - the HY/RD is now night and day better than the BB7 I still have installed on the rear in feel and stopping power. Very happy!



rodar y rodar said:


> Surprised it gives you the modulation improvement because I always figured that benefit of hydraulics was due to the lack of long steel cable and housing. And of course I`m a serious expert on bicycle disc brakes :lol:


I think that there are two factors in play here:

1. Hand-cycling the BB7 actuation arm and then the HY/RD actuation arm I can feel that the BB7 takes more force to actuate. I also notice that the BB7 arm has a lot more slop in it such that even after the pad has clamped the rotor there is still play in it. I think that's why the HY/RD system has a better feel to it - more of my lever action is going into the pads as opposed to fighting a spring or taking up system slop.

2. With the BB7, only the outboard pad actually moves - the inboard pad is fixed (but they are both adjustable). Therefore the BB7 outboard pad has to move further than the HY/RD pads and must deflect the rotor before fully clamping it against the fixed pad. As BB7 pads wear you must stay right on top of adjusting them or your brake effectiveness decreases quickly (and the outboard pad wears faster then the inboard pad). With the HY/RD system, both pads move to squeeze the rotor. Because the pads are self adjusting, they will always be a consistent distance from the rotor and should give a consistent feel though the life of the pad.




newfangled said:


> Hate. So. Much.


I'm with you brother  My front BB7 rotor got out of true and I finally gave up trying to fix it. I just put up with the pinging noise when the pads were adjusted close to the rotor. When I put the HY/RD brake onto that rotor, the noise went away...I think that the pads were just tracking the out of true rotor. And I will not miss having to constantly adjust the pads!


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Unfortunately, almost all rotors need to be trued out of the box, even the more expensive stuff. Seems to be a side effect of having to ship the stuff. 

That said, truing a rotor isn't terrible with the right tools. Paul Morningstar made a small set of truing forks that worked better than anything else I've ever used. Unfortunately, with his passing, they will become harder and harder to find.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

wschruba said:


> That said, truing a rotor isn't terrible with the right tools. Paul Morningstar made a small set of truing forks that worked better than anything else I've ever used. Unfortunately, with his passing, they will become harder and harder to find.


I'd debated getting them before, and it is really sad to hear about him. I've got a morningstar freehub buddy which is a great addition to the toolbox.

In the past I've had reasonable success using an adjustable wrench to true rotors, but this time it just wasn't happening. After 2 rotors and 6 hours or whatever I was at, I finally gave up and started using my hands...which actually worked okay. I gave everything a good soaking with alcohol when I was done, and I think that may actually be my preferred technique for the future.

And the moral of the story is that I greatly overtrued them, and today I had to back the pads out a couple of clicks.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Added some CosmicBright led lights to my hydro pack. I received several comments on it yesterday on my commute through heavy traffic on a super busy 6 lane road. I picked them up from Wally World for just about 12 bucks, they run for over 24 hours, and I have a ton of rechargeable batteries anyway, so effectively this is one of the most inexpensive bike lights that one could use. I have the thought to bike up some blue ones (to match the bike theme) and lacing them down my panniers.

Check it out, all lit up.


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## powpig2002 (Sep 13, 2009)

inverted my Clarence bars. so far so good


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

And another update. Picked up a bigger adaptor, and swapped my untrue rotor onto my hardtail which only had a 160mm. With the cheap Hayes brakes I had the rotor trued in no time.

The problem with the bb7 is inconsistency. When I was fighting with it on the weekend I would true to the inboard pad and get everything how I wanted it. Then I would switch to the outboard pad. Turn it in 1 click - no rubbing. Another click - no rubbing. Another click - rubbing. Back it off 1 click - rubbing? Back it off another click - still rubbing? What? Cycle the arm a few times, and back it off another click - rubbing. Back it off a few more clicks - still rubbing! Even though the gap was now much bigger than it had been 30 seconds earlier when it was silent?!? I blame the stupid spring, although I have no idea if that's the cause.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Give the brakes a squeeze every time you back the pad off--you'll often get the pad sticking a bit in the caliper.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

$30 - moustache bar FAIL. The 2" drop of the mungo bar and short head tube on the pompino wont let me level the saddle with the curve-end of the bar. Should have just installed the cowbells in the 1st place. ON the bright side everything works perfect.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Finally pulled the hubs apart and re-packed them. Did 2 wheelsets (studs on separate wheels). The peace of mind is outstanding. All of the bearing races were looking good, which is huge, because it's been way too long.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

CommuterBoy said:


> Finally pulled the hubs apart and re-packed them. Did 2 wheelsets (studs on separate wheels). The peace of mind is outstanding. All of the bearing races were looking good, which is huge, because it's been way too long.


I need to repack the front hub of my commuter. The bike is 7 years old and I'm sure it's never been done. I've been looking at bullhorn bars, but don't want to have to get new brake levers and shifters to make things work properly, although they're so comfortable.

I found an article on instructables.com on how to make a front fender out of an old licence plate, which is just so funky and cool that I have to do it. I'll post pics this weekend when I get it done.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Gave the bike a full wipe down and cleaned the drivetrain and chain the best that I could. Living in an apartment really hinders bike maintenance and cleaning, but I came up with a solution. Upside down on the kitchen counter works pretty nicely. Makes clean up after much easier. Bike was absolutely filthy after my last commute and it needed it in a bad way. Reaching behind the chainrings is a bit difficult, still looking for a solution for that. Also looking into turning my CX bike into a single speed with a disc brake up front only. I don't ride it off road or as a CX bike is intended. I have only commuted with it and plan on keeping it that way.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

TenSpeed:
One of the only "bike" cleaning tools I own is a gear brush. A few different companies make them, and they're worth their weight in gold, as far as reaching into tight spaces.

Today, I pulled the freewheel from my bike and soaked it in degreaser, followed by agitation. The poor weather has not been kind to it, and the grease/oil had gone rusty... not to mention the skipping. Filled it with Boeshield, let it sit, and reinstalled it. It's still skipping occasionally, but it is much better. 3k miles out of it isn't half bad with an unsealed freewheel, in my book. Since I'm going to install a fixie sprocket anyway, I'm not going to worry about it too much. I'll just throw the original freewheel back on.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Got myself a new riding partner. Also, a buddy dropped off some square buckets to use as hard side panniers. I can't wait to get around to painting and decorating them. They'll look great, and give me much more use compared to the small saddle bags I have now.


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> I found an article on instructables.com on how to make a front fender out of an old licence plate, which is just so funky and cool that I have to do it. I'll post pics this weekend when I get it done.


Looking forward to seeing that- it does sound cool. Except with new NV plates. About a year ago they stopped stamping them, now they`re just boring flat sheets with the numbers only painted on.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Spent the good part of an hour last night trying to level out my saddle. It seems as though with each bike that I get, the seatpost has some sort of a different contraption to adjust the saddle with. Finally figured out this on, but now it seems to be slightly nose up. Will have to test ride it to see if I got it or not.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

wschruba said:


> TenSpeed:
> One of the only "bike" cleaning tools I own is a gear brush. A few different companies make them, and they're worth their weight in gold, as far as reaching into tight spaces.
> 
> Today, I pulled the freewheel from my bike and soaked it in degreaser, followed by agitation. The poor weather has not been kind to it, and the grease/oil had gone rusty... not to mention the skipping. Filled it with Boeshield, let it sit, and reinstalled it. It's still skipping occasionally, but it is much better. 3k miles out of it isn't half bad with an unsealed freewheel, in my book. Since I'm going to install a fixie sprocket anyway, I'm not going to worry about it too much. I'll just throw the original freewheel back on.


What else works really well are those part washer kits that come in paint can with a basket you can find @ auto parts stores. Only problem is thatyou have to be careful-responsible when disposing of it b/c its solvent based.


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## woodway (Dec 27, 2005)

TenSpeed said:


> Finally figured out this on, but now it seems to be slightly nose up. Will have to test ride it to see if I got it or not.


I like my saddles perfectly level and set a bubble level on them to adjust. They turn out perfect for riding every time.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

woodway said:


> I like my saddles perfectly level and set a bubble level on them to adjust. They turn out perfect for riding every time.


I do the same thing. Sit the bike on level ground and then lay a 12 inch level across the saddle to adjust it.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Bubble level app on the phone makes roadside adjustments easy if you need to dial it in while you're riding.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

Well first of all depending on how inflated your tires are the level of the saddle changes quite a bit....

And that goes for setting the saddle while off the bike and then climbing on the bike....

Point being that things change and the saddle angle changes while riding to some degree...

Recently I put my bike on a trainer...leveled it and started riding...

When I went no hands during the recovery portion of the ride.....I would tend to slide forward off the saddle....but on the road I hadn't really noticed that.

Basically I had my saddle "level" course the saddle is not a flat plan so where do you measure level anyway...

End result I have set the saddle a little more nose up...seems a bit better and takes some load of the arms...

Lesson try a few different saddle positions for a week or two before deciding the "absolute correct" saddle angle.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I used a level, and it is slightly off. The bubble is about halfway into the center zone. Checked my other bike and it is about the same way. Will probably be alright, can always make minor adjustments as I go along.


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

I just eyeball mine- it doesn`t stay put anyway, so I guess I just gradually adapt until it eventually gets so far out of place that I reset it.


jeffscott said:


> Basically I had my saddle "level" course the saddle is not a flat plan so where do you measure level anyway...


My question too.


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## woodway (Dec 27, 2005)

rodar y rodar said:


> I just eyeball mine- it doesn`t stay put anyway, so I guess I just gradually adapt until it eventually gets so far out of place that I reset it.My question too.


I put the level on the nose of the saddle and on the high point on either side of the back of the saddle (where your sit bones are supposed to go). For me when these two points measure level the saddle is perfect. I use the same type of saddle on all my bikes and I can achieve a consistent feel across them all.

Of course when I sit on the saddle it's no longer "level" (since my fat butt scrunches the padding on the back of the saddle). But through trial-n-error I have figured out that by starting with a level saddle I get the perfect setting for me.

Your setting will be different. Once you get your saddle comfortable, slap a bubble level on it and remember what the level says for next time or next bike.


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## Medic Zero (Jun 8, 2011)

> What have you done to your commuter today?


Pulled the christmas lights off so I could put a coffee mug in the water bottle cage that was holding their battery box. My sweetie works from home most days, and we had to move to a neighborhood that (_GASP!_) lacks a coffeeshop, so I'm going to swing by a place on my commute home in the morning (I work night shift) and bring her coffee.

Happy girlfriend > cheery lights! :thumbsup:

I also aired up my tires and Airzoundz and flipped my front wheel around. Somehow I had mounted it so the tread was facing the wrong way the last time I had a flat. It makes almost no difference given the minimal tread pattern on this tire, but it was bugging me. Airing up my tires was surprisingly a real PITA. I had picked up some of the aluminum Presta valve adapters as they fit my color scheme better than the brass ones, but I couldn't get the damn things to work! Finally ended up pulling a brass one off my girlfriends touring bike that she never rides and then everything went smoothly, but I was going nuts there for a few minutes! 
:madman:

Also cleaned out and reorganized my big-ass saddlebag. Confirmed that my pump, patch kit, and spare tube _aren't_ in there. I must have taken them out when I ferried a spare bike in to stash at the unused second bike cage at work, but I have no idea where they are now, since we just moved and everything is still in boxes. Makes me nervous riding with no pump, spare tube, and patch kit, I might have to swipe my girlfriends off of her steed for now...


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

^^Wow, quie a bit going on there. Just steal your GF`s pump and buy new tube & patches- hopefully you`ll eventually find your own pump and you`ll have one up for the tube and patches that you`d eventually have to buy anyway :thumbsup:

Got new shifters in the mail yesterday. I think I`ll put the right one on today. The one that`s on the bike still works, but I think it`s getting ready to go at any time. I should probably ride instead, might go for a little bit anyway, but I`m feeling incredibly lifeless lately. Should be well on my way out of hybernation, and it just isn`t happening this year.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

rodar y rodar said:


> Got new shifters in the mail yesterday.


So I have to ask, what does "new" shifters mean for rodar?


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Took a derailleur to the rear spokes today. Never had that happen before.

Pretty minor damage all things considered. Two spokes are pretty kinked where the derailleur went in, so I'll have to replace those, although it might wait until spring (probably not). The chain went over the cassette, but it doesn't look like it damaged the spokes back there. Shifting and limits were all messed up, but I bent the derailleur back and it seems to be working ok.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

^ done that. First time using Shimano shifters in a long time. Whoopsie on the derailleur.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ not quite that bad, although not good either. A random stick pushed it in, and I think I'm lucky that it's winter because the wheel locked up and slid, rather than continuing to roll and destroying stuff.

The bike is a steel frame with sliding dropouts, and the hanger is mounted on the slider. So I'm not quite sure what actually bent, or what I was bending back that got it working again.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Got a set of zero bar ends I plan on putting on today - need to swing past LBS for a new pair of grips first though as the current ones go over the end of the bar so don't have any caps. Ordered pair of shimano spd pedals and shoes yesterday, can't wait for them to rock up!

Today so far I just gave the bike a good wipe over, checked air and lubed the chain.


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## Medic Zero (Jun 8, 2011)

rodar y rodar said:


> ^^Wow, quie a bit going on there. Just steal your GF`s pump and buy new tube & patches- hopefully you`ll eventually find your own pump and you`ll have one up for the tube and patches that you`d eventually have to buy anyway :thumbsup:
> 
> Got new shifters in the mail yesterday. I think I`ll put the right one on today. The one that`s on the bike still works, but I think it`s getting ready to go at any time. I should probably ride instead, might go for a little bit anyway, but I`m feeling incredibly lifeless lately. Should be well on my way out of hybernation, and it just isn`t happening this year.


I found my pump today and scrounged a spare tube out of the camelback I only use during the summer. I _meant_ to grab my girlfriends patch kit out of one of her rides on my way out the door, but I was running late and spaced it. Have to dig up my spare levers too. Funny thing is, I'm paranoid because I used to get almost a flat a day, sometimes two. But now that I've switched to good quality tires I very rarely have flats. In fact, if you discount the mysterious sidewall blow out (while parked in my living room), I haven't had a legitimate puncture in a little over a year and that one only resulted in a slow leak. It just bugs me to not have what I need with me, just in case.

For the bike itself, today I lubed the chain and swapped out all the batteries on my light array.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Started piecing together what I will need to transform my TriCross to a single speed. Starting at the back and working my way forward.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Proofed my saddle and bar tape today. Nothing else to report; the single speed is happily taking everything in stride.


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

Oy, that looks bad, 10speed. Glad you didn`t trash everything, Newf. Weird that you munched it hard enough to damage spokes and didn`t kill the RD in the process.



newfangled said:


> So I have to ask, what does "new" shifters mean for rodar?


Just plain ol Shimano bar end shifters. They went up from $56 to $75 since I bought the set I just replaced. Now that I look closely at the old one, I`m pretty sure the piece that broke was just a dust protector- still feel better now. New chain while I was at it. I measured 1/16 stretch in the old one and I saved it to take to a shop for measuring on a chain gauge just to see what "percent" it reads. Also replaced the last section of housing before the RD and trimmed one end of the shifter-to-TT section. Hubs are due for service sometime in the next month or so.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

rodar y rodar said:


> Glad you didn`t trash everything, Newf. Weird that you munched it hard enough to damage spokes and didn`t kill the RD in the process.


I'll be suspicious of this RD for awhile...basically until I forget to be suspicious of it.

I replaced the two spokes today, although they probably could have waited until spring. Of course one of them was in that impossible spot on the hub where you just can't thread it through without detensioning a bunch of other spokes. I was in no mood to redo the whole wheel, so I just rammed it through with some triflow and sacrificed a bit of paint. With the cassette off I could see that all of the spokes had taken a bit of a beating from the chain, but it looked like it was mostly just cosmetic damage to the paint with no bends or kinks.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

More saddle adjustment. Still trying to get it just right. Can't find my big level, so I am cheating by using a smaller level on top of something longer.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Bought a Serfas thunderbolt tail light for the ride home (big honking pound-and-a-half container of pretzels on the rack was obscuring my seatpost mounted light). 

Anywho, mounted the thunderbolt onto the middle vertical stay of the rack, which sticks out a bit further than the other two. So far, I'm quite pleased with everything about the light, as on high, it has impressive output, not to mention throw. It's fairly omnidirectional (definitely helps, since it can't really be aimed) though, as with most lights, it's best viewed head on. The flash mode is a fairly uninspired use of the LED strip; it uses a simple, equal, on-off flash.

My only complaint so far is that steady high has a fairly low battery life, coming in somewhere around 2 hours and change. It's rechargeable, though, so not terrible.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I have one on mine and I love it so far. I have only used it on high flash so far, and it appeared to be very visible. Asked a co worker to drive behind me and see how it looked.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Swapped out the stock flat pedals for a pair of entry level shimano spd pedals.. Brand spanking new pair of shimano spd shoes to go with them. Looking forward to giving them a try in the morning, although not looking forward to having to make adjustments repeatedly to get tension and cleat position right.

Also adjusted seat position a little.. Up a bit and back a bit.. Have been getting a sore back so playing around trying to find the sweet spot. Have three good quality second hand road saddles on their way to trial too in hopes of finding something my ample arse is comfortable on.


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

WarbyD said:


> Have three good quality second hand road saddles on their way to trial too in hopes of finding something my ample arse is comfortable on.


Cool. Did you find some kind of saddle exchange (would be awesome), or just made a few separate transactions on Craigslist or eBay or some such?


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

WarbyD said:


> although not looking forward to having to make adjustments repeatedly to get tension and cleat position right.


I always run my SPDs at the lowest possible tension....


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Added air to the tires...


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

jeffscott said:


> I always run my SPDs at the lowest possible tension....


Same here. Cleats right in the middle of the shoe as well.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

rodar y rodar said:


> Cool. Did you find some kind of saddle exchange (would be awesome), or just made a few separate transactions on Craigslist or eBay or some such?


Just a guy on another forum selling a bunch of stuff

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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Coworker who used to work at an LBS that closed some years ago gave me a nice suspension seat post from his stash. I'm all for comfort that doesn't effect effort. I'll put it on this evening if I can find the energy, but right now, I'm out.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

First ride this morning on the clipless pedals - win!! Extended my usual 15km commute to 30km, a little ankle pain early on but subsided by about 20km and a little numbness in my right foot but expect that to pass

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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Foot numbness might be the shoes being too tight, especially across the top of your foot, near your ankle. Velcro straps or boa?


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Velcro straps.. The numbness comes and goes and seems to be more focussed around the middle of the foot

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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Next time you put them on, don't strap them so tight, see if that helps any.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Oooh, I'm excited. With tax returns right around the corner, I have some plans. Shifters, chain, large crank ring, brake pads, and SPD pedals/shoes. Also looking at a few of those TrustFire lights to use as a headlight/emergency flashlight. 

Until then, it'll just be daily maintenance while I prep the hard side panniers for painting and decoration.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

TenSpeed said:


> Next time you put them on, don't strap them so tight, see if that helps any.


Will do, cheers!

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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Anyone got a 3 spd left bar shifter compatible with a Shimano FD they wanna get rid of? I'd rather drop a few bucks in a forum bro's pocket than someone on eBay who is likely parting out bikes for pure profit instead of a love for the sport.


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## Sanath (Jul 20, 2012)

I maybe have a twist shifter of some sort that you can have if you're desperate. I also may have cut it in half. I'll check when I get home.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Good wipe down, lube chain, drop or two of lube each on pedals/derailleurs/levers... More importantly, discovered my "power tower" (dip station) makes a handy bike stand!









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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Gave the bike a thorough wiping-down. The commutes have been salt-filled and super messy besides for the past few days... No respite in sight for the coming week, either.

Can't wait for the spring rains to wash away the salt. I'll even take a winter rain, at this point.

Got a pair of Nashbar "euro style" panniers in the mail today. The bike stayed at work tonight due to an unexpected flurry, but first impressions are pretty good, especially for the $30 price tag; the suspension system is webbing and ladder locks, with a spring clip as a quick release. Looks plenty secure. The only possible problem I can see is if there are heel clearance issues, the suspension guide on the bottom of the panniers really leaves no room for actually locating them--it is merely a bar to keep the webbing from flapping around. Otherwise, it hits on all my major concerns: lots of room, reflective piping (on all the major seams) and they come with rain covers. I'm sure I'll have to hit them with some Tectron, but they certainly seem like they'll do nicely.

Will post later after using them for a bit, but I'd say grab them if you see them at/below $30, you could do way worse.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Did some shopping. Drove an hour to Performance Bike and REI today. Picked up a few things, and then had to order something online to complete my lighting setup. Did manage to score some reflective decals that I have been looking for, although I got the wrong color. Placing them on my bag and probably my helmet. Gonna have to order black and probably some white to finish my project.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Replaced front shifter with a cheapie Shimano rapid fire, just to last until tax return when I switch over to some Paul Thumbies. I wish they made a rear derailleur that was as bulletproof as those things. Still need to install that suspension seat post to make my hiney nice and comfy. Spent the weekend prepping and painting the square buckets for my hard side panniers. Need to get those slapped on, and hopefully get around to refinishing the bike with matte black and metallic blue, I'd be in heaven. Get that thing lookin' sharp and ready to survive the apocalypse.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Bought a mary bar for the pompino. After seeing some pics on others using this bar on pompinos im not sure if im going to be able to get my hands far enough forward over the front wheel as i want to. Ill be able to emulate my hand position riding the tops of my current cowbell 2 bar but not riding the hoods. Its kinda of a big trade off b/c i really built the bike for a mess around bike for when i dont want to use the roadie or CX bike which id ride on more serious rides.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I really like the Mary, but had to add about 30mm to the stem (went from a 60 to a 90)

edited to add: Oops. I've got a Mary and a Midge and always get their names confused. Can't help with the Mary, because I'm still trying to find the perfect stem for riding in the drops.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I changed the rear tire (old one was getting dangerously thin), straightened the derailleur hanger, and cleaned up the shifting cables, which run below the down tube and catch crud.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Installed the longer stem I got from wschruba out of the parts swap thread. It's definitely not test ride weather with the ice (and my lack of studded tires), but I think this will be an improvement.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

I cleaned the spooge off the drivetrain in the hopes that the chain-lock I experienced yesterday would go away. Kind of like chainsuck, but the pedals would just momentarily jam without the chain getting sucked up and stuck. Of course this happened when you needed to accelerate the most, like entering/crossing traffic, entering the roundabout, starting off at a light. The cleanup seemed to do the trick, and with temps back down to -2F, there was much less oobleck on the road and the bike this morning. Yesterday it was like a dark grey fountain of ick.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Spooge, oobleck, fountain of ick. Got it. :lol:


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Swapped out the stock "zero zealth " seat for a fancy looking prologo kappa one and ordered 2x shwalbe marathon "greenguard " tyres 

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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Let's see:

Adjusted my saddle angle after trying that suspension seat post and not liking it about 12 times before I realized that I had it backward and would never be able to achieve the angle I wanted like that. I felt like a dumbass. 

Adjusted stem angle and height (I've got one of those adjustable ones), and changing grip/shifter/brake lever angle accordingly. 

Installed my two buckets as hard side panniers, but took them off this evening to do some fine tuning and try to make a quick release type setup, so I can pull them off when I don't require them. 

Wrapped another set of green CosmicBritez LEDs around the top tube, down tube, and seat post on recommendation of my 6 yr old. Because they're safe and green is awesome and it glows. Just ask him.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

GoPro to Magicshine adapter  I can mount this light anywhere now. As a bonus I have a giant flat spot on my stem that was begging for a GoPro stick-on mount. I had to cut it down some to make room for access to the stem bolts, but it's works like a champ.

























Also, in the ongoing struggle with the 'suspension corrected rigid fork' and the dreaded fender gap, I have made a pretty big discovery. I have gone through 3 incarnations of solutions: first, I inserted a star nut up into the bottom of the fork and used a long bolt to drop the fender down to the tire. This worked well, but then I got a different bike/fork. I like the fender down low to minimize front-spray, but I like it up high for clearance in the snow...no fun to have to adjust when you swap the studded wheelset on. My second attempt was a 'fender extender' built out of a piece of an old fender, and bolted to the front of the Cascadia fender, for further 'reach' towards the front of the tire. This worked good while it lasted, but enough chattering on dirt roads and trail use, and it eventually cracked it's 'host' fender because of the extra weight and length with no struts.

Yesterday it was raining really good as I was about to leave work, and I didn't want to deal with the 'spray cannon' out of the front of the bike, so I found some strapping tape and made a super custom mud flap. It weighs nothing and works better than anything else I have tried. It's a prototype...I want to make one that's slightly more attractive out of black gorilla tape. The road grime is a testiment to it's effectiveness.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Ordered a rack, trunk bag (with small fold out pannier) and bar end mirror..

Also gave it a good wash and lubed chain, plus threw a mudguard on the rear since there is small chance of rain this week..

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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

All cosmetic stuff at this point. Bought an apparently hard to find KORE front skewer on eBay. Also played around with light mounting for the upcoming season. Messed around with some of the reflective tape that I bought, in the wrong color. What a way to spend a Friday night.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

TenSpeed said:


> All cosmetic stuff at this point. Bought an apparently hard to find KORE front skewer on eBay. Also played around with light mounting for the upcoming season. Messed around with some of the reflective tape that I bought, in the wrong color. What a way to spend a Friday night.


Lol! Don't get down on yourself. I cannot begin to count the nights in the living room working while the world revolves.


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## slower_than_u (Sep 28, 2008)

Last summer I installed two 700x35 Soma New Express reflective sidewall tires on my commuter. They rode nice and offered adequate flat protection but I run tubeless and strangely, one Soma held air just fine, the other wouldn't hold air overnight.
New Xpress | SOMA Fabrications

I was looking for a replacement as adding air was really getting old and I came across a "one tire remaining" deal on a 700x35 Schwalbe Marathon Dureme.







Out of the box, it had a much sturdier feel than the Soma and only 25 grams heavier(450g, not that weight is an issue!) I mounted it this weekend and am curious to see how it performs. It installed easily on my Stan's NoTubes Arch 29er rim and inflated sans tube with the floor pump. The really bitter cold in my area seems to be easing a bit so I hope to get out this week.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I like those reflective tires. Curious to see how you like it compared to the other tire.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Swung by the LBS and grabbed some stainless toe clips with leather straps. I was sick and tired of breaking plastic ones, or the screws coming loose mid ride and being lost forever. That, and stainless toe clips are just downright sexy.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> Swung by the LBS and grabbed some stainless toe clips with leather straps. I was sick and tired of breaking plastic ones, or the screws coming loose mid ride and being lost forever. That, and stainless toe clips are just downright sexy.


Why not clipless? I love my spd shoes/pedals for commuting..

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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Because I can get toe clips and straps for 15 bucks. I'm looking into it when my hefty tax return check comes in, but that's still several weeks out, an I need something for tomorrow.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

That's a pretty good reason 

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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Trust me, it's been considered. My Amazon wish list is packed, and I might be able to pull it off.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Performance bike had Shimano M520's on sale for $35. Hard to beat that price.


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## jseko (Jan 25, 2011)

I was a bad man...I let the chain go too far and it ruined my chainring and cassette. I replaced the middle ring, chain, and cassette. Nothing special but I learned that having a Truvativ crank means I can only use Truvativ chainring despite that it's 4x 64/104 bolt circle. 

Got a deal on a SRAM take-off cassette which is a weird design because the three biggest gears only have the part of the gears with teeth and they are attached to a arms like on the crankset so they share the same set of splines on the freehub. In a way they are like mini-chainrings.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

TenSpeed said:


> Performance bike had Shimano M520's on sale for $35. Hard to beat that price.


Wish I'd known. Right now I'm looking at some Shimano Click'R pedals and some Five Ten kicks. All in all it should put me a little over a bill, which is fine once those taxes come back my way. Until then, these sexy clips are gonna have to work.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Adjusted brake and shifter positions and replaced the kenda small block 8s (29x2.1) with shwalbe marathon original greenguard tyres in 700x38 c.. Will be interesting to see how much difference it makes.

Next adjustment I think will be dropping the stem a little to see how lower bar position feels.

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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> Wish I'd known. Right now I'm looking at some Shimano Click'R pedals and some Five Ten kicks. All in all it should put me a little over a bill, which is fine once those taxes come back my way. Until then, these sexy clips are gonna have to work.


Check wiggle.. I didn't pay much more than that for them from wiggle a couple of weeks ago

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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Came out ahead even after shipping to the us?


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Rode it to work with a new 67" gear and new camo tape on the cowbells. Damn thing flew. Next step i think is setting up the hub for 16/18T so ill have a 67" and 61" gear. USPS is holding the mary bar for me to pick up. After this morning its going to take a lot of persuasion to get me to change...


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

jseko said:


> I let the chain go too far and it ruined my chainring and cassette.


Bummer! Watching a possible dead chainring in the "How Was It?" thread too- hope he fares better.


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## capsisking (Feb 4, 2014)

I can't make it all the way to work, so I got up early and did about an 8th of it  hopefully next week I'll be riding to work!


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

capsisking said:


> I can't make it all the way to work, so I got up early and did about an 8th of it  hopefully next week I'll be riding to work!


Keep it up, man. You'll get there.


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## capsisking (Feb 4, 2014)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> Keep it up, man. You'll get there.


Thanks bud, it's not far at all. I've just been avoiding anything physical since my accidents.

But now that I have something comfortable to ride I'm ready!

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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

capsisking said:


> Thanks bud, it's not far at all. I've just been avoiding anything physical since my accidents.
> 
> But now that I have something comfortable to ride I'm ready!
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


I feel ya. I had a hard wipeout around thanksgiving and it put me out of riding for about a month. My shoulder still isn't close to beings right, but my wallet says I have to ride.


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## capsisking (Feb 4, 2014)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> I feel ya. I had a hard wipeout around thanksgiving and it put me out of riding for about a month. My shoulder still isn't close to beings right, but my wallet says I have to ride.


Lol, that's the hard part. My wallet (2 cars and 3 motorcycles) says I don't have to.

We'll see how enthusiastic I am after a few weeks!

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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Swung by my LBS and walked out with a few goodies. New 53t chainring (no more skipping on the big boy gear!), and some padded liners. I used to make fun of a buddy of mine who would wear them, saying that they were for wusses and whatever. Well, my ass feels great, and I'm a happy camper about that. I'll be picking up more of these once that return gets here.

Also, while I was cleaning out the garage this weekend, I found a set of leg irons that had come into my possession through a negligent correctional officer one night while running a 911 call with an inmate. My wife joked that it would make a cool bike lock. Well, one 3 dollar key later, and I'm rocking.


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## pigmode (Nov 15, 2009)

No probs with the pads man, but I've been using a WTB saddle and can do long hours wearing board shorts. But then again I used to use a Specialized Toupe on a roadbike for longer miles.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I'm thinking of trying out a WTB from all the good things I hear about them. I could easily bust out 35 miles in board shorts (that's what I ride in anyway), but these things are awesome. The only reason I bought them was the owner of the LBS told me to give them a shot while I was browsing during a repair. Told me if I didn't think they were worth 35 bucks, I could bring 'em back no questions asked, which is a big no no (no returns on things that touch private parts).


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## capsisking (Feb 4, 2014)

That's awesome

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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I thought so too.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

So which WTB saddle are you guys contemplating? I found the SPeed V for cheap on amazon but im still not convinced...


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## capsisking (Feb 4, 2014)

I don't even know where to start as far as seats.

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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I've been looking at several models. It's not that I'm unhappy with my current one, but I'm not in love with it either. I figured I'll have some extra cash flow later this month, and I would give it a shot. If I don't like it, either try to exchange it for something else or give it away.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Start by measuring your sit-bone width, them go for something a about the same width for an aggressive (think road racing) position, a little bit wider for general use, or really wide if you are sitting bolt upright.

Your sit bones are measured center-to-center between the two bony points, grab a tape measure, and you'll be infinitely better equipped to start looking for saddles.

I've used the Speed V, Laser V, and Pure V, and of the three, I prefer the Speed V for general riding. I use padded shorts all the time, unless I'm going 2-3 miles. 

That said, it doesn't mean very much, as what fits me, might not fit you.


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## capsisking (Feb 4, 2014)

I think I'm going to get padded shorts first

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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I got measured a while back, and 155 is the way to go for me. I suppose I'm looking for something better than "pretty good", ya know?


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I used to use the WTB saddles, because they were affordable, easy to find, etc. Tried most of them, and they never felt right. Right size, but they just didn't feel right. Then I picked up a Specialized saddle. Night and day difference. I won't buy a WTB saddle again, not after trying Specialized. I got measured with the Ass-O-Meter at my local Specialized shop. I ride a 143, which I had been all along, but on the wrong saddle. Currently have an Avatar on my SS, and I think a Riva on my CX. Both comfortable beyond belief. I also wear a chamois on any ride longer than a few miles.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I'm gonna check out what's going on at my LBS today. They're a Specialized dealer, and have a great selection. Unfortunately, all the SPD shoes they have are that ugly vinyl with Velcro straps. I guess I'm gonna have to do online for the shoes I'm looking for. I'm also about to take the bike in and have it gone over. I'm by no means an expert, but I've kept everything going for a while. I just want a fine toothed comb job, ya know?


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

What are you looking for out of a cycling shoe? For example, Pearl Izumi, Shimano (under the Click'r line), and Keen all make more casual/sneaker type shoes, but the trade off (and, incidentally, one of the main reasons to buy them) is a more flexible sole. Good for walking around, less so for power transfer. I can't speak for the guys at the shop, but I'm sure if you let them know what you are looking for, they'll be able to find something appropriate.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I would love to be able to find something that looks like the Five Ten Spitfire or the Vans that I already wear, but clipless.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Gonna check out a few models from the Shimano Click'R series through Amazon. Once I find the one I want, I'll return it and place a special order through my LBS

Looking forward to moving over to clipless. Also picked up a Serfas RX saddle. Promises to be extremely comfortable, and they have a 90 day money back guarantee. If I don't like it, I'll take it back and put the money toward ordering a WTB.


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## pfox90 (Aug 8, 2010)

Five ten makes tons of clipless shoes. I have a pair of chrome spd shoes which are money. They look super casual but are actually decently stiff. Much stiffer than shimano click'r. The problem with the shimano click'r is they are a very recreational/low performance shoe that is aimed at someone who isn't going to take clipless too seriously. You also have to consider the width of your foot as shimanos are a pretty wide shoe, especially in that model.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Pay day yesterday.. that means spending day today!! 

Just put in an order for 2x long sleeve jerseys (I prefer to wear L/S to keep sun off my arms), new shorts, new gloves and a 75mm stem to try.. Currently have a 105mm stem on the bike and feel like I'm reaching just a touch too far so will be interested in seeing how the 30mm shorter stem feels..


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Got a new set of fender stays to go on tomorrow... the rear stays wound up being just a bit too short after being transplanted to make room for the rack.

Incidentally, if anyone needs one pair (for one fender) of v-type stays, let me know. They are SKS parts. I have the draw bolts and caps and all, too.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

pfox90 said:


> Five ten makes tons of clipless shoes. I have a pair of chrome spd shoes which are money. They look super casual but are actually decently stiff. Much stiffer than shimano click'r. The problem with the shimano click'r is they are a very recreational/low performance shoe that is aimed at someone who isn't going to take clipless too seriously. You also have to consider the width of your foot as shimanos are a pretty wide shoe, especially in that model.


Everything you just said about the Click'R line just sold me. I'll be ordering a pair of the SH-CT40LO shoes online. If I like them, I'll send them back and have my LBS place an order. I don't mind the extra effort to put food on the table of my mechanics and friends down there, even if it means I have to work harder or longer to make it happen.

I've got a massive list of things that need to be ordered, and they're looking forward to it, almost as much as I am.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I opted for these instead of the standard velcro shoes that I used to wear.










Picked them up on sale from JensonUSA I think it was. Have not had a chance to use them yet, but the sole is really stiff.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Came home to a couple of packages tonight, so the commuter got a bit of a birthday..

Axiom Journey Disc Pannier Rack (supposedly rated to 70kg and has lifetime guarantee! :O) 
Axiom Trunk Bag with Fold-Out Panniers
Solarstorm light (Bloody hell this thing is bright!!!)
Ergon gl1 (I think? Can't remember exactly) grips
zero carbon bar ends
Zefal spin bar end mirror

Plan for this weekend is lube the chain, wrap some bar tape around the chainstay to give it a bit of protection and adjust the derailleurs (new bike.. Cables stretched, Grrrr).. Oh and flip the front tyre which I retardedly put on backwards lol









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## pfox90 (Aug 8, 2010)

IMO shoe flex has less to do with power output (well it does) and more about foot fatigue. But good luck hopefully you like them and you'll be a happy camper.


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## pfox90 (Aug 8, 2010)

http://www.chromeindustries.com/us/en/footwear/lower-ss-pro-grey

I got these bad boys on black friday for like $48. I like the leather look to em. They definitely are nice though.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

That is a good price. Have you used them yet?


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

pfox90 said:


> IMO shoe flex has less to do with power output (well it does) and more about foot fatigue. But good luck hopefully you like them and you'll be a happy camper.


Fair enough. I'm hoping that they serve my needs, because they certainly seem like they would from what I've been looking at. Apparently Vans makes a clipless shoe, which is definitely something I need to look in to. I like the Chrome shoes, too.


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

Turned it back into a coastie. Think I'll need it, been shut out by sickness/weather for a while now. Hope that freewheel lasts longer than the last shimano I used.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Installed new front skewer, messed around some more with the lighting setup. Two Serfas Thunderbolts up front (pictured) and a red one in the rear (not pictured). I think that it should be decent enough for my commute. Not sure how much actual usable light they will put out for me to see, but I will definitely be seen. This was taken in full day light and they are still really bright. Had to order smaller wrap around mounts for them from Serfas, as they only came with the large ones which were far too long for the handle bars.










I am going absolutely nuts with this weather. Temps in the low single digits, and more snow than we have ever gotten, and it is snowing again right now. In the last 5 years, it is has been under 0 5 times I think they said. In the last 5 weeks, it has been under 0 15 times already. We have more snow in just January than the last three winters combined if I remember correctly.


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## capsisking (Feb 4, 2014)

Let us know how you like those.

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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Looked back at the picture of those Chrome shoes, realized I had not put the cleats on yet. Put those on, tried to get them square and even vertically and horizontally. Thought about taking them off of my Shimano shoes, because they are just broken in, still good, but worn enough for easy engagement/release. I am bored out of my mind on a Saturday night. Frigid temps, don't feel like the bar scene, friends either at work or unavailable. Already watched countless biking videos online, so I tinker. Noticed that my fork feels like it has some wiggle in it. Not sure if that is correct. Bike shop installed carbon fiber fork, and they are good, I mean the three mechanics combined have about eleventy hundred years of experience. Everyone makes mistakes so I will probably end up back at the shop to see if this is right. Might just be me being bored and slightly OCD. Checked saddle alignment three times already. Looks slightly off, but it is dead on. Couldn't be more on, but it just looks slightly off to the right. I should just walk away. Then I notice that the mount for the coaster brake somehow is not right. Deciding if I should mess with that tonight, or just call it good and fix it another day. Decided to jump on here, noticed that there hadn't been any posts in this section since the last time I checked. 

Decided to mess with the messenger bag some more. Packed a few spare parts in there, like extra cleat screws. You never know when one of those will just work itself right out. Never had it happen personally, but quite a few people that I have ridden with seem to experience it. Got a nice Timbuk2 cell phone attachment for it, even though that is not what I wanted. Ordered a Chrome brand one, but my gigantic phone doesn't fit. This one fits perfectly, tested it in the store first! Made sure that I had essentials like a multitool and my pedal wrench that works as a single speed tool as well. Found an old eyeglass container that will fit my micro USB charging cord for headlight/taillight/phone so I won't be dead at work. Always like to have one with me, regardless if I need it or not. Double checked the velcro on the bag closure to make sure it was complete. Added a bit more reflective tape, in moderation, to any clasps that would hold it. Managed to find black reflective tape online that reflects white, so that is my next project. Will wrap a small part of each spoke of the rear wheel, and hopefully figure out something for the front, along with replacing the tape on my bag so it is all black. 

I have one small project for the bag that will require a Dremel tool and a pretty steady hand. Not sure why they didn't think of this, so I may submit some pictures and a write up to Chrome to see if they will do this. I will be absolutely sure to post, as I will probably do this tomorrow. Local bike shop is having a huge sale tomorrow, and I mean huge. Just about everything in the store will be either on sale or clearance, and there will be stuff that they don't normally sell. Last year I picked up a slightly used MTB tire and tube combo for $12.99 Tire had less than a hundred dirt miles or so on it. Looked almost brand new. Tube was brand new. Tire retailed at about $55 or so. Heck of a deal, so I will probably mosey on in right when they open to see what they have. I don't need anything, nor does my wallet want me to get anything, but I love to support the local shop, great bunch of guys, owner and his son are really good people. Hard to not support a business that treats their customers so well.

Sorry for the rant/long post/slightly off topic. Like I said, bored out of my mind. I am looking at the decal sheet that I ordered off of eBay for fun. Already tastefully applied the ones I wanted on there in almost factory looking locations. Considering adding one more, just for fun.....


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Damn TenSpeed.. That's a freaking novel haha.. You WERE bored..

Me.. I cleaned and lubed the chain, adjusted rear derailleur (happy with it for now, although it's not quite perfect..) and front derailleur (not really happy with it.. It's "good enough" for now but just couldn't seem to get it right.. It'll do, for now). Bike is due for its "free first service" so will try to get it booked in for some time this week and get them to sort out the shifting.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

The boredom continues, part II, day II. Dremel is being charged, found my cut off wheel pack that I bought over a year ago, and am getting everything ready for my small modification. Went to the store, got some Sour Patch Kids, Diet Coke, and will try to not shake so bad like I am having a seizure while I am cutting haha. Decided to not go to the sale, wallet thanks me greatly.

I will post pictures and a small explanation of what I did.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Alright, so this is not exactly for my bike per say, but it is for my commuting bag, so close enough right? Bored I said.

Started with a used Chrome Metropolis messenger bag purchased from another biking forum. Bag is great, heavy duty, fits all of my stuff, and I got a pretty good deal on it. Few minor annoyances with it though, and since I have a wee bit of free time on my hands this weekend, thought I might address one of the issues. Pardon the cellphone selfies in the bathroom, trying to find the best light in my apartment where there was a mirror and some work space with easy clean up.

Here is how the bag was before. Note the hanging excess strap. My commute has me with a full load on the way to work, and a lighter load on the way home. Too much strap dangling in the wind.










Time to get to work on this.










Blue Painter's tape so I don't accidentally do the wrong side, Dremel with a cutoff wheel, and eye protection.










Like a hot knife through butter. 7500 rpms so plastic didn't launch everywhere.










And now, the end result put a huge smile on my face, and gets my thumbs up of approval!










A close up of my handy craftsmanship.










Start to finish, including uploading pictures, cleanup, write up and putzing around took about 20 minutes. Most of that time was ensuring that I had the Dremel set up correctly. I always have a big fear that the attachment wheel or whatever will come shooting up in my face. I always ALWAYS wear eye protection when I use it. Ex wife recently lost an eye in a horrible car accident, so that has me even more paranoid.

Very happy overall now with the bag. No dangling strap, nothing flapping against me or the bike. It looks like it will hold reasonably well. I need to get in there and deburr the plastic so I don't get any snags on the strap itself.


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## capsisking (Feb 4, 2014)

I went clipless and got some padded shorts 

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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

capsisking said:


> I went clipless and got some padded shorts
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


Good deal. What kind of pedals and shoes?


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## capsisking (Feb 4, 2014)

TenSpeed said:


> Good deal. What kind of pedals and shoes?


Bontrager Evoke Mountain Bike Shoes
Shimano 324









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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Very cool. Good luck with them. You will get the hang of them in no time if this is your first time. Did you opt for multi release cleats or are you just going to run the standard that came with them?


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## capsisking (Feb 4, 2014)

Standard that came with them. I did 7.7 road miles and 2.2 off-road miles with then today and I'm very happy! I do need to adjust the tension though, my left foot has just a bit to much play in it.

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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I can't wait for my Shimano Click'R stuff to get here. Looking forward to seeing just how much of a difference they make. Especially since I'm planning a 50 mile road ride this Saturday. Would love to have me ready by then. 

Yesterday afternoon I replaced and toed in my brakes with some new Clark "super stops", and scrubbed my rims clean. Man, those things grab! I was having fun locking up the tires. It's comforting to know that in a time of need, there's no question on whether or not I'll stop. Also cleaned and lubed the chain. Thought about pulling off the rear wheel and getting after the cassette, but I got lazy. Figured it would be done before the long road ride, so there's no sense in it. 

Also removed the long aluminum bar ends I had and replaced them with some short stubby comfy things. Not sure if they're going to stay or not. 

Had to get myself a new helmet. Specialized Echelon in Ion. Super comfy and really cool (temp wise).


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## pigmode (Nov 15, 2009)

Have some SKS fenders coming in, not sure yet if it's going on the Elmar or the Jabber. I'm just hoping I can pull off a clean enough install to satisfy my unfortunately demanding aesthetics. 

I may have mentioned I used to be a roadrider, but back injuries have me back on MTBs. No probs with that because MTBs on the road are super fun (except for the Q factor). The upshot is I'd like to put a front rack on one of these, but would like to keep the Jabber unladen as a climbing bike. Decisions +++

P.S. As for packs my Chrome Bravo mays a geat everyday pack, but there's definately a mission workshop Fitzroy in the works for grocery shopping etc. I'm also looking into a front rack from Capricorn Bikes, so you see why I want to keep one bike clean.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

I shoveled out her "parking space" at work, so I did not have to wade through the snow to retrieve her after work. Pretty sad that all the "real" parking spots are perfectly maintained! Meanwhile, our work cars were relegated to a satellite lot today (PITA to clear off before fieldwork, move for plowing, etc.), since too many people are driving single occupancy vehicles, leaving no room for visitors in the parking lot or garage.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Picked up a bunch of Sockguy socks on clearance at my LBS today. Cleaned the chain and cassette. Not doing too much, since it's being dropped off with the mechanic tomorrow. Going over it with a fine toothed comb to make sure everything is how it should be. 

I'm pretty happy with this Avatar saddle. A little more fine tuning and I think I'll have a keeper.


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## capsisking (Feb 4, 2014)

Upgraded from Tektro 330 brakes to Shimano Deore 615's. 

And added a second cage behind my seat.

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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Was bored this morning and had some free time, so I swapped an upside-down northroad onto the fixie. It was super aggressive, but was sadly much too low everyday riding so I swapped back to a flat bar and headed off to work. Now in the back of my head I'm wondering how this old 26" frame would work with dropbars. When the co-op reopens in a month I might have to try it out.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

nice huh?


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## JAMarco1 (Mar 2, 2010)

Just got a Carradice Nelson long flap saddle bag to replace my back pack. so far so good


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ please don't mind the fact that I'm drooling all over your bike.

I broke my beloved bullmoose bar before christmas and haven't gotten a replacement yet. (which is why I was monkeying around with a flipped northroad this morning)

And I really covet white Fat Franks, but have to wait until my black Big Apples wear out (which is taking forever).


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## JAMarco1 (Mar 2, 2010)

newfangled said:


> ^ please don't mind the fact that I'm drooling all over your bike.
> 
> I broke my beloved bullmoose bar before christmas and haven't gotten a replacement yet. (which is why I was monkeying around with a flipped northroad this morning)
> 
> And I really covet white Fat Franks, but have to wait until my black Big Apples wear out (which is taking forever).


By all means drool away! just don't get it on the paint ;p

Personally I'm still on the fence with my bullmoose bars. I'd like to get them a tick higher but they're already maxed out.

I like the Fat Franks but I prefer the way the Big Apples ride. It maybe a tire rim combo thing but I haven't swapped tires to know for sure...


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

You can gain greater heights, well at least your stem can, with an extender:

Sunlite Chromoly Quill Stem Extender - Gregg's Cycles

Likely can be polished silver.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Got some slick Planet Bike fenders, an absolute must for Florida commuting. Also picked up a small portable speaker that attaches to my messenger bag and lets me rock out on the ride in. Folks move out of the way without the use of a bell or shouting "excuse me!", and it slaps some smiles on passers by. You know me, I'm all about some smiles.


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## capsisking (Feb 4, 2014)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> Got some slick Planet Bike fenders, an absolute must for Florida commuting. Also picked up a small portable speaker that attaches to my messenger bag and lets me rock out on the ride in. Folks move out of the way without the use of a bell or shouting "excuse me!", and it slaps some smiles on passers by. You know me, I'm all about some smiles.


Pics or it didn't happen...

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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Fenders or the small speaker thing?


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## capsisking (Feb 4, 2014)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> Fenders or the small speaker thing?


Both... I'm more interested in the fenders though.

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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> Fenders or the small speaker thing?


More info on the sm speaker?


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

http://www.hmdxaudio.com/portable-speakers/go-xl-portable-speaker.html

This is the speaker. It runs on thee AAA batteries, and has a headphone jack input. I simply purchased an extension to reach my phone on the handlebars. External volume control is great, and I was able to speak to my wife on the phone, although everyone could hear me shouting about what I wanted for dinner. Sound clarity is good, and even at full volume on both devices, the speaker doesn't distort. By far one of the best commuting purchases I've made. I had a blast rocking out to SRV, AC/DC, and ZZ Top this morning.

I'll post pics and info on the fenders later.

In other news, the Avatar saddle has been given a fair shot and lost. It's simply not the comfortable saddle that I'm looking for, although it does provide a good amount of lateral control while standing. I'll swing by the LBS today and see what else they have to offer, and if nothing tickles my fancy, I'll be going back to the Zefal Journey saddle from Walmart.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Kind of surprised that the Avatar is not working for you. Good luck in your search for something that does.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Trying out a 143 mm Avatar right now. I'm liking it much more, but the 13 mile ride I'm about to go on will make it or break it. Finally got the Click'R! I can't believe that I haven't clicked in before. This is awesome!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Hopefully your issue is in the size, and not the saddle. Was telling my buddy at the shop today that you were returning it. He looked at me in disbelief. I was like yeah, I know LOL. He said size as well. And yeah, clipping in is awesome. Can't go back to flats any more, just wouldn't feel right. I am guessing that not too long, and you will be on regular Shimano's, and you will be selling those Click'Rs. 

Me? I spent Valentine's Day down at the bike shop killing time, looking at bikes, talking to the mechanics about converting my TriCross to a single speed and what it would entail. Looks to be pretty simple, but I won't get that clean look since I don't have the horizontal dropouts. Oh well. I also got the fakie all set. Front skewer issue is worked out, and lighting is fully adjusted. I can't do much more to the bike except ride it now. Cannot wait to get it out with the carbon fork with the higher steerer tube. I gained a good couple of inches over the stock fork. Should make the riding position much more comfortable now.

As for the lighting, I have the two Thunderbolts on the handlebars horizontally, and then I have two BlackBurn Flea 2.0's on the stem aimed down on either side at the front wheel. Hoping to get some sort of reflective tape or glow tape that shows movement while the wheel is in motion. In my mind, it works perfectly. In reality, it isn't done yet, and I am not sure that I can get to the visibility that is in my mind.


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

TenSpeed, if you SS your Tricross, doesn`t that leave you with no geared bike at all? That`s just begging for a series of commute time gales or an invitation to ride a long and climby route- make sure you`re sure.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Installed a monkeylite 232 on the front of my fixie







Since it's on the front I couldn't get it spinning superfast for the photos, but it is pretty bright.

For the past 3 winters I'd debated getting one of these, and finally this year I decided that I didn't want one and wasn't going to buy one. But then the co-op that I volunteer at held a kickstarter-style fundraiser and this was one of the rewards, so I figured I might as well.

It attaches with 5 zipties, so it's not something you can take on and off, and that's too bad since it isn't very pretty. I'm glad I've got black spokes/rim/hub on this bike since it sort of blends in. I used to have silver wheels which would have made it really stand out.

It's too bad that I didn't get it a couple weeks earlier when my rides were still dark, but it should still be good. I want it for side-visibility and not for snazziness, so I'm going to have to choose a setting that's least likely to encourage people to drive into me.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

rodar y rodar said:


> TenSpeed, if you SS your Tricross, doesn`t that leave you with no geared bike at all? That`s just begging for a series of commute time gales or an invitation to ride a long and climby route- make sure you`re sure.


Well, I live in Michigan, so you can scratch the long and climby route, we don't have those. I haven't totally made up my mind on going SS on that bike. A GF Rig came up on a local forum, but I think that it might be a size too big for me. Tried a 21" Trek Marlin just for fun at the shop. Shorter stem, and lowering the seatpost, and it fits. Neither of us could believe it, but it would work. Every Specialized bike that I have had is a 19". I am just a hair shy of 6'0", however, I am all torso, which I guess allows me to fit on a slightly larger bike. If the geometry of the Rig was the same or even similar to the Marlin, I think I would jump on it. Very nice bike, some nice aftermarket bling like carbon bars/post, upgraded wheels, etc.

Orrrrrrrr, I could get the duomatic kick back with the coaster brake that I have had my eye on. Decisions decisions!!


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

newfangled said:


> Installed a monkeylite 232 on the front of my fixie. ... I want it for side-visibility and not for snazziness, so I'm going to have to choose a setting that's least likely to encourage people to drive into me.


Does it do a hamster running his butt off? Different sort of cager. The skull and crossbones is good. A spiral would mesmerize drivers: You are in my power...


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I just covered the frame and fork in fluorescent green duct tape, and the fenders in Avengers print duct tape. Was really careful to make sure it didn't look like some hack job. Went through 3 razor blades and one thumb pad (luckily I had all of those tape scraps to wrap it with). Wifey was skeptical when I first told her some months ago, but she's really surprised by how it turned out. All in all, 10 bucks for a new paint job!


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Lol I want pics!

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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I'll be happy to snap some tomorrow morning when I get to the office.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I have been riding some regular compact drop bars with friction 2x9 barend shifters on my Pake C'mute and decided that I didn't care for the shifters being so far away from the hoods and that friction is a pain. So i bought some ergo bars from the local co-op and cut the ends off:









This puts my shifters a lot closer to my hands whether I am on the hoods (most of the time) or in the hooks while descending.









Later I was cruising Craigslist and found a TT handlebar set with nine speed Shimano DA shifters for $50. Score!


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

I don't reckon id be too keen on running bar end shifters and having to reach all the way down there every time I wanted to change gear! Each to their own I guess heh

I just changed my stem from 105mm to 75mm.. Think the new stem might have a little bit of rise too vs the old one which was zero rise.. Looking forward to seeing how it feels in the morning.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Warby, that is a huge change! Curious to see how you like the new feel. Should be pretty responsive in the steering I would imagine.

Tex - looking forward to seeing some pictures of this.

Me? I spent a little time down at the bike shop talking to my buddy, deciding what I was going to do with part of my tax return. He helped me decide, and just to make sure that I didn't showroom the shop, I went home, checked online, and they will get what I want for the same price as online, so they will get my business. Gets ordered Friday, and then the fun will start. I am going to keep it a bit of a secret, but I will drop a few hints. Not a new bike, and it is for the TriCross.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

I had felt the previous position was a little too far forward for my liking and the truvativ 75mm stem was only $40 so figured worth a shot.. Even just standing over the bike it felt more comfortable in the new position so looking forward to it.

Don't know what to change next haha.. Wouldn't mind getting some carbon bars..

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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

As promised. I still have some cleaning up to do, as this was done on a whim last night while hanging out with the wife. Shouldn't be too much trouble this weekend to get it straightened out.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

WarbyD said:


> I don't reckon id be too keen on running bar end shifters and having to reach all the way down there every time I wanted to change gear! Each to their own I guess heh


I am confused. my shifters are now 3" closer to my hands than they were before. the whole point is that I no longer have to "reach all the way down there" to shift.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

That tape looks really nicely done. You didn't want to wait for Marvel to put out Guardians of the Galaxy ducttape?

As part of my local co-ops kickstarter I got the monkeylite last week, and yesterday I got a magicshine clone which I'll try out today. Neither were things I would have bought otherwise, but they should be fun to have.

And on monday I "broke" the pedal on my fixie. It started innocently enough - I noticed there was a ton of play on the driveside pedal. These are basic wellgo cartridge bearing pedals, and the locknut on the axle could be loose, the bearings could need replacing, or the bushing could be shot. I went to loosen the topcap with an allen key, and the cap split in half. The pedals were cold from being outside (although it was fairly "warm" at around freezing) so I don't know if maybe that's why it broke?

You can't maintain the pedal if you can't get the cap off, so I tried a few different ways to get it out, and eventually it just fell apart leaving its threads in the pedal body. So yeah...the pedal will keep working for awhile, but I can't fix it, and the bearings are now exposed to the elements. I had been thinking about trying plastic pedals for the winter, so I went and ordered some.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Tex - that tape job looks pretty good. I think it looks better than solid color fenders which are boring. Nice work!


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I'm really digging it. Looking into converting to drop bars, so that it would be a much more comfortable ride. Looks like I can do it for about 100 plus shipping, bar tape, and shifter installation. At that price, it's almost impossible to say no.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

That looks impressive Tex! No excuse for anyone not seeing you!

With regard to the bar end shifters, I just meant in general - not specifically your installation.. I like not needing to move my hands to shift 

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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Picked up a White Industries freewheel to replace my busted Shimano (which, in its defense, worked much better after removing one of the spacing washers from the cone) and a chromoly track cog. They'll probably go on tomorrow sometime. I decided to step down to an 18t freewheel, and seeing as that's what I'll use on a daily basis commuting, so I won't miss the top end, and I'll get a few more rpms out of my cranks. I kept the fixed sprocket as a 16, so I don't get demolished if I go riding with other people.

Incidentally, and I learned this after purchasing a screw-on style track cog, Miche makes a carrier that threads on and takes splined cogs, so you only need to remove the lockring to change the sprocket, no chain whip needed. The more you know!

I'll post a write up on the Nashbar panniers I got a few weeks back in a couple of days. They've held up well, and I've got no complaints about them, especially given the price.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I ran an 18t for a bit, and noticed a big difference in top end vs the 16t. Went back to 16t instead.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

WarbyD said:


> With regard to the bar end shifters, I just meant in general - not specifically your installation.. I like not needing to move my hands to shift


that makes more sense. I tried this with this particular ergo drop bar and I just can't figure out how to get the angle right. if I set the handlebar and the levers up it a normal drop bar, the flat ergo parts are almost pointing straight down, which is scary because it feels like my hands are going to slide off the bar. if I angle the ergo drops up more, there is no way to set up the lever in a comfortable position.

in the end, I just took my old compact drops, cut one inch off the ends for the shifters, and re-installed them. I had friction shifters before and that was half the problem. at least with these indexed 9 speed barcons, I just have to click the shifter and I don't have to linger there trying to find the right gear. so they feel a lot better. grabbing the bar-end to shift is not as scary as it sounds.

on the other hand, I would love to put some STI "brifters" on my bike, but that would requires so many new parts that it would cost half of what a whole new bike would cost, so I will not bother. barcons are simple, cheap, and they just work reliably.


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## NumbNutter (Jan 25, 2014)

Lubed the chain and hammered the BS Stinger a bit back into shape.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Oh man i love those CC levers. Theyve got to be the most comfortable ones around..


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

meeting up with a CL seller this morning to buy a 110mm x zero rise stem for the pompino. It will power the bars and increase the seat bar drop a bit but with the slack HT and ST angles this should put me further over the front wheel. Another thing is that ive begun to get some left knee pain signaling somethings up with the bikes set up. Ive micro adjusted my seat height and it helped a bit. This weekend im thinking of changing my gearing from 40/16 to 42/16 and see what happens.


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## mort1369 (Oct 12, 2013)

Ordered an offset seatpost and adjustable stem for the Kona. Also am reinstalling the knobbies so I guess it won't be a 'commuter' (at least for a while). Finally had our LBS check the rear wheel, seems it has a protruding spoke, which may explain the spectacular failure of my rear tube while inflating it.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Finally cleaned it up, it was coated with grit and salt everywhere. One pedal was really stiff, so I removed it and took it apart. That went OK until "poodle clip" #2 went flying across the room. Funny, that did not happen in the Straitline tech video. It sounded like it hit the couch, and the dog lounging there started, but I still haven't found it. Dang! Not sure if it is something I might find at the hardware store if it is still MIA tomorrow. I also noticed I have a cracked brake cable housing, they really seem to suffer in the cold.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Finally picked up something for storage. Got this at REI for $75. It is pretty decent. Assembly process makes it feel very chintzy, but the final product once assembled is OK. The white bike looks huge compared to the orange one, which is odd since the orange bike is actually a larger frame. Picked up something else for my place, but I have to put it together yet tonight. Will post pictures once it is done.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Looks good! I like the look of the white bike too, very clean

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Thank you kindly. The angle makes the bike look all funky, like the bars being angled. They are actually perfectly horizontal.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

More storage!!!! Picked this up at Target today for $44.99, and the two storage baskets were $5.99 each. Enough room for all of my shoes and helmets, and then my gloves and glasses are in the top basket, nothing in the bottom yet. My plan is to run a surge protector up from the wall that is behind the unit, and turn it into a charging station for all of my lights. I have a bunch of the USB cubes from various phones, so I will make a nice little area there for that, and then I should be set. The wall the unit is on is a half wall with a pillar. My messenger bag is hanging off the pillar for now until I can find a better place for it. Cannot put it on the floor next to the unit for fear that my dog might lift his leg on it.


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

Cool bike stuff center, TenSpeed! Your dog is likely to pee on the bag by itself, but leaves the stuff in the storage unit alone?


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Yeah, he won't mess with shoes especially since he is used to those. The bag, he sniffs that a lot, like he is interested in it. Weird dog, what can I say?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I think even my wife would approve of that storage system for bike stuff. My bike stuff goes down in the basement. I have a couple shelving units down there (I need at least one more, with a clothing rod I can use to hang packs and sleeping bags and things) and I've got a couple shelves dedicated to bike stuff. so my stuff is similarly convenient to access, even though it doesn't look as nice.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Nate - no choice over here. Apartment life hinders the bike life. Was living in a house with a full garage and all kinds of cool bike stuff storage. That is all gone, she has it, but that is OK, doing alright over here. Wanted to do something kind of modern and clean, and this fits the bill. Still need to adjust the rack so that it sits even on the wall.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Just placed an order for 22.2/25.4 drop bars, some Tektro ergo drop levers and some florescent green bar tape. This should allow me to use standard trigger shifters with drops. Should be a fun project.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Eventually I'll save up for some Retroshifters. Those things look sweet, and they're bomb proof. For a 50 dollar Craigslist bike, I sure have dropped a ton of cash into this thing.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ not sure what you've got planned, but here's my cheap solution:



It's just a $10 light&accessory mount, and it works pretty well.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

newfangled said:


> ^ not sure what you've got planned, but here's my cheap solution:
> 
> 
> 
> It's just a $10 light&accessory mount, and it works pretty well.


I thought about going route, but I just couldn't think of a way to shift that didn't scare the crap out of me (I'm in no way a proficient rider, and the idea of one handed shifting is frightening). It's the same reason I didn't go with one of the many vintage road bikes with downtube shifters that are all over Craigslist for pennies. I'm still very much a newbie at it all, since I've only been commuting by bike since August. I still get freaked when grabbing a water bottle.

I test rode a few roadies the other day, and riding in the hoods was everything I imagined it to be. The drops were great too, especially for ducking down in that gulf wind. All in all, just a hair over 60. I'm going to have to shim the brake levers, but it's whatever. The bike is covered in duct tape, no need to put on a charade as if it's a "precision instrument of speed and aeromatics".


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

that's my M950 xtr bb axle. maybe 7 or 8 months riding?
wowza!
ground the solid stuff off with steelwool, fresh grease and we'll see how she goes.

don't make me go buy more 105's...


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Light charging station is under way. Picked up a Belkin powered 4 port USB hub at Best Buy today. Pictured are my 2 Serfas Thunderbolt headlights, 1 Serfas Thunderbolt taillight and my Niterider Lumia headlight. Just need to find something to put this in and to be able to hide more of the wires.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

*A Reflective Moment*

I set up both sides of the bike with alternating luminescent and reflective Rimskins. No UV light enhancement of luminescent sections in this video, just car lights. Quarters in front and semi circles in the rear. The light weights on the spokes were added since the "hole in the dark" pictures. Driver's eye view. Cell phone movie resting on instrument cluster dash hump. Low beams. first bit with HotShot in constant on, last with headlights & taillights, too, no helmet light. When the Nori lights come I'll do a ride by video. The alternating strips on the rims show movement & speed better than solid rings of the luminescent tape. The reflecting tape shows up just as headlights wash out the luminescent tape, so the effect is good. I still think that reflectors show up a bit late to the party compared to lights or luminescent tape, but these (spoke and rim reflectors) scream bike and if they stop someone launching into me, it is worth the attempt.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

How was the install of the Rimskin? Been looking at these and am contemplating just for fun doing the rear wheel of my commuter.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Impressive nighttime conspicuosity, Brian!


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

TenSpeed said:


> How was the install of the Rimskin? Been looking at these and am contemplating just for fun doing the rear wheel of my commuter.


Pretty straight forward, actually. They come in 4 arcs. They seem to be just shy of a full 700 C but they give a spare one with the word rimskin cut out in mid arc so I cut a 3/26" piece from the end of that one to complete the circle. They supply a stickiness retarding compound for your hands/rim/tape to place it, align, and smooth it out. 24 hours to dry. They are not easily removed but with care I was able to remove one side of one rim's worth in about an hour. Going slower gets it to peel off faster. If you try speeding it up you will end up scraping it off with fingernails.



mtbxplorer said:


> Impressive nighttime conspicuosity, Brian!


The non-flash camera doesn't match the eye's sensitivity. Camera with flash over reports the effect. I figure that drivers with bad night vision and who should not be driving at night, would see it about as shown. I think it helps us ride defensively to know what we look like to drivers. The sectors and light weights would be spinning and grad attention. We tend not to be overlooked (as in 'not seen') as we are in daylight, if we are properly lit at night, However, a recent post in Commuting reminds us that we can be seen, but our speed and closeness not register even for drivers who are cyclists! So pretend all drivers are Mr. Magoo.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Lost my Thunderbolt taillight last night on my way to meet up with some friends at the bar. Came home and moved the LED strips from my helmet to my seat stays. I'll be going by the LBS and picking up a new one after work. Might also grab a Blackburn Flea 2.0 for the back of the helmet. I'll also be picking up a 9v battery box and on/off switch from Radio Shack to further the run time of my new seat stay strips. 

I'm very anxious my drop bars and stuff to arrive. Can't wait for that conversion!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

That sucks that you lost your Thunderbolt. I can fully understand getting another one. I have the Flea 2.0 but never thought about putting it on my helmet. May have to try that out.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Yeah, it happens. I have a feeling that I didn't fasten the strap correctly and lost it when going over some tracks or hopping a curb. It's my own fault, really. Oh well.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

^^ I lost a Princeton Tec Swerve over a RR crossing and a following car flattened it seemingly on purpose. The Planet bike lights went through a spate of unclipping from their backs (mounts), so that some rubber banded them to prevent this. Many lost their lights. So a spare tail light in the toolbox is not a bad idea and redundancy on the bike is not being too paranoid. I screwed my HotShot to a PB mount as the original mount was not robust. Maybe a detachable life line to the light from a seat rail could be rigged if you think a repeat AWOL is hard to avoid.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> Just placed an order for 22.2/25.4 drop bars...





Texan-n-Fla said:


> I thought about going route, but I just couldn't think of a way to shift that didn't scare the crap out of me...I'm going to have to shim the brake levers, but it's whatever.


Sorry, I'd missed the first part when I responded. I didn't even know you could get a 22.2 dropbar. How'd you find it, and who makes it? Even googling I'm mostly finding talk about how they don't exist (except for one random australian trackbike company)


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

newfangled said:


> Sorry, I'd missed the first part when I responded. I didn't even know you could get a 22.2 dropbar. How'd you find it, and who makes it? Even googling I'm mostly finding talk about how they don't exist (except for one random australian trackbike company)


Pure Fix Bicycles out of L.A. I googled everything I could, finally found it on page 7. It's all good. I was looking at quite a few attachment bars to see if I could rig something up, but there was nothing that I felt confident enough to use.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

All has shipped and should be here in just a few days. I've been thinking of different setups in regards to the triggers and drop levers. My main concern is braking and down shifting at the same time, like when coming to a light. This is the idea that I kept coming back to, and wouldn't you know it, someone here on MTBR had already done it. While I wouldn't be able to dump gears in a flash, with this going on, I shouldn't have to do anything to the shifters or derailleur besides switch bars.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)




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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

mtbxplorer said:


> One pedal was really stiff, so I removed it and took it apart. That went OK until "poodle clip" #2 went flying across the room. Funny, that did not happen in the Straitline tech video. It sounded like it hit the couch, and the dog lounging there started, but I still haven't found it. Dang! Not sure if it is something I might find at the hardware store if it is still MIA tomorrow.


Well, the hardware store was "close but no cigar", and the LBS suggested I might want to "look a little harder" for the flung clip, LOL, as they were not overly optimistic about finding one, though they are looking. So I did some more crawling around and went through the vacuum bag (mostly dog fur), but no luck! I'll have to borrow a pedal from the fatbike tomorrow.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

mtbxplorer said:


> Well, the hardware store was "close but no cigar", and the LBS suggested I might want to "look a little harder" for the flung clip, LOL, as they were not overly optimistic about finding one, though they are looking. So I did some more crawling around and went through the vacuum bag (mostly dog fur), but no luck! I'll have to borrow a pedal from the fatbike tomorrow.


What kind of pedals are you using? If it's something I have, I'll be happy to share.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> While I wouldn't be able to dump gears in a flash, with this going on, I shouldn't have to do anything to the shifters or derailleur besides switch bars.


That bike is setup to spend most the time in the drops, which is typical for flared dirt drop bars, and is how I've got mine set up too. But to do that with a 26er you're going to need a really highrise stem. I've got a 35deg on my 29er, and it's still a touch lower than I'd like. With a normalish stem the hoods/tops will be the more comfortable spot, and even then the reach might be enough that you'll want to switch to short stem. Just something to keep in mind.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

newfangled said:


> That bike is setup to spend most the time in the drops, which is typical for flared dirt drop bars, and is how I've got mine set up too. But to do that with a 26er you're going to need a really highrise stem. I've got a 35deg on my 29er, and it's still a touch lower than I'd like. Just something to keep in mind.


I was only speaking of the setup of the shifters in relation to the drop levers. The bars I have coming are typical road drops and the bike is an "aggressive hybrid", which is just a fancy term for flat bar roadie.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Yeah, I'm mostly just saying that height and reach might not be totally straightforward. I tried 4 different stems before I found one I liked, and even it's not perfect.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

newfangled said:


> Yeah, I'm mostly just saying that height and reach might not be totally straightforward. I tried 4 different stems before I found one I liked, and even it's not perfect.


Thanks for the heads up on that. I figured I would have to get a new stem and spacers, but I'm not exactly sure how this is going to affect the fit. I've got a 100mm adjustable stem lying around that I might toss on. By adding or removing spacers along with adjusting the angle of the stem, it should allow me to figure out a close ballpark estimate of what I need to be going for before I shell out too much cash for 5-6 stems.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

An adjustable should be good. I took advantage of the no-hassle returns policy at MEC (the canadian REI) and "tried" a few different stems so that I didn't have to spend too much.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

newfangled said:


> An adjustable should be good. I took advantage of the no-hassle returns policy at MEC (the canadian REI) and "tried" a few different stems so that I didn't have to spend too much.


Not a bad idea. Can't wait for this stuff to get here.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I just wanted to say a quick thank you to everyone who has made this thread what it is. I wasn't sure how it would turn out, and to be honest, it is one of my favorite threads on this entire forum.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> What kind of pedals are you using? If it's something I have, I'll be happy to share.


It's a Straitline Amp, MIA clip #9 in pic. It is supposed to be redundant, to make it harder to lose a pedal body on a rock hit (I did that with ATACs once), but I'd rather replace it of course.


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

mtbxplorer said:


> LBS suggested I might want to "look a little harder" for the flung clip, LOL, as they were not overly optimistic about finding one, though they are looking.


Ouch- they look like bling pedals, and I wouldn`t expect much luck finding Number Two Poodle Clips in many hardware stores! A device I`ve seen (but don`t remember where) that would be a good help for that looked like a small carpet sweeper with long skinny magnets rotating on rollers. Maybe somebody knows if there`s a name for such a beast? Or maybe you could just drag the landing zone with the biggest (surface area) magnets you can find?


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## moxnix (Nov 19, 2011)

mtbxplorer said:


> It's a Straitline Amp, MIA clip #9 in pic. It is supposed to be redundant, to make it harder to lose a pedal body on a rock hit (I did that with ATACs once), but I'd rather replace it of course.


http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/_/Navigation;jsessionid=vmMXTMCBMHp6n2jKnpJ8yp9CkVK5CgLH1Dph9p2JJHHnqpWCB7Gs!1214249990!-1454137099?r= ~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600135 Retaining Rings and Clips"|~ ~|categoryl3:"600139 Retaining Rings"|~ ~|categoryl4:"612443 External Poodle Rings"|~


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ good find. Alternatively: Straitline Pedal Soft Rebuild Kit > Components > Pedals > Pedal Small Parts | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

^^ A hardware pick up magnet on a stick used to pick up dropped nuts and washers might be worth a wave or two over the possible area of disappearance. That has saved me a couple of times. Hardware stores have them if you don't. A surprisingly handy tool to have.


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

Wow, great find Moxnix!

Better than this
Poodle Ring 14K Gold | Dog Jewelry Cat Jewelry Paw Print 14k Gold Sterling Silver


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Thank you moxnix and newf! One of those will definitely work, not sure if I should get the pack of 100 clips for $10ish (will have to see if I can remember how to use my grandfather's micrometer to measure it), the rebuild kit that includes the nice new bushings for $25 ish, or a magnet-thingy. The magnet-thingy would make me move the couch and vacuum under it, which is probably a good thing.


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## gearwhine (Aug 20, 2009)

1.5 years ago, I got hit by a car, and my 1982 Schwinn Voyageur got destroyed. After using my CX and MTB for commuting in its place... I finally gave-in and went all out for a new commuter specific build. So...what have I done to my commuter today? I made a new one, of course!









1980's Nishiki Cresta GT (because I need classy). Needed nearly everything replaced. A few more things are needed to get it where I really want it...full racks for grocery use instead of my backpack, slightly taller stem for a bit more comfort, and a King Mud Flask (obviously)

Additionally, after getting hit by the car, the cops tried to pin it on me saying my lights weren't bright enough (they were bright enough per law 500+ft in Denver, CO), but I decided to leave no room for that again. Since I commute every day out of the year (at the very least 7+ miles a day), I went and bought commuting specific lights from Jay at Amoeba (who is known for his awesome hand built mtb night-riding lights).

Amoeba - The simplest "light" form








He built me a full function red rear (solid and strobe beams) with a thick lexan lens for greater side visibility, as well as a new bar mount front light. These project a beam on the ground for 20-30 ft fore and aft. I've even noticed most cars have been passing me with a more reasonable spacing since I've been using them. I truly couldn't recommend higher end lights enough if you commute often!


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

^^ Great lights built by a great guy. He didn't have a road light when I built my own.

"the cops tried to pin it on me saying my lights weren't bright enough" Does Colorado specify anything for bikes other than having lights? I was almost hit with a cop witnessing the almost broadside and he said the driver was distracted (so that excused everything). There seems to be a feeling among some law enforcement that it is always our fault. I do get better treatment with better lights. Most drivers understand you are helping them and appreciate the help.


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## gearwhine (Aug 20, 2009)

Amoeba doesn't have road specific lights, just custom to whatever you want. He did just start the red lights though....I saw it and said I needed it. I think I'm the second sale on one of them.

Laws & Policies | BikeDenver

Excerpt-
Night Riding - At night, bicycles should be equipped with a front white light visible to 500 feet and a rear red reflector visible when illuminated by headlights to 600 feet.

I used to use the Cateye Reflex rear light, so I had a light and reflector combined...that way I'm 100% within the law, but the battery died so quickly and I would keep breaking it whenever I hit it wrong...like locking up to a bike rack. Great idea, just not up to the quality/durability I needed.

As far as your cop interaction...yep. 100% agree. They had no choice but to cite the driver since she ran a stop sign and I had no stop sign (with a witness vouching for me). They sure as hell figured out a way to blame me as well by saying "she said she just didn't see you", and gave me a ticket for my lights. He actually said "it's only $50, it's not big deal." I seriously wanted to smack him.

I was ready to fight it in court, but the DA dismissed it, since the cops provided zero evidence to back it up. What I hate the most, though...they don't let you know about dismissal. You have to show up to your court time for them to tell you this. They just wait and wait for you to get fed up and admit guilt by paying the ticket. I bet if I paid it after it was already dismissed, they would've removed the dismissal and happily taken the money.

Anyway...I'm rambling. Bike commuting sure can lead to BS (at the very least). Stay safe!


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Happened to have today off, which was handy since the daytime high is -14F, and the low was -28F.

So I was making some changes to the bike - realigning the rack, monkeying around with the bar - and I noticed that the casing on my rear tire had split:




There were 2 separate spots where the tube was poking through the sidewall. These are schwalbe icespiker pros, which are just over 2 years old, and which have a sticker price of $180CAD each (although I got mine for $100).

So I'm a little disappointed. I sent a warranty claim to schwalbe and we'll see what they say.

For now I've patched it with fishing wire, gorilla tape, super glue, and an old tube:



I don't doubt that the patches will hold, but I'm wondering how long it will be before it splits in another spot. And I've got to keep a close eye on the front tire too.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Man, that sucks. Looks like it split along the thread line, which says that it was the rubber that failed. 

Drop bars and bar tape came in today. Still waiting on drop levers, so I swung by the LBS and picked up a set of Origin 8 levers. I'll file a return when the others come in. So, while the wifey drinks her wine and watches Jeopardy and Shark Tank, I'll be drinking beer and installing a drop bar with rapid fires. Should be a fun project. I've got a 50 mile road ride planned for Sunday, so it will be a perfect time to work out the kinks before I get back to commuting on Monday, and my Tour de Cure race at the end of the month. 

Don't worry, I'll be posting pics. I also saw an awesome bar end stopper made out of a wine cork with a beer bottle cap. Think I'll do just that...


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ good luck with the setup. When you tape the bars, the 1st time will be frustrating, the 2nd time will be slightly less frustrating, and the 3rd time it will probably all fall into place.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

newfangled said:


> ^ good luck with the setup. When you tape the bars, the 1st time will be frustrating, the 2nd time will be slightly less frustrating, and the 3rd time it will probably all fall into place.


Ha! That's actually been the most anxiety causing part of this whole thing. Not can I make it all work, can I modify the hell out of some shifters, but can I properly tape some bars...


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

newfangled said:


> Happened to have today off, which was handy since the daytime high is -14F, and the low was -28F.
> 
> So I was making some changes to the bike - realigning the rack, monkeying around with the bar - and I noticed that the casing on my rear tire had split:
> 
> ...


Brrr! Nice timing to have the day off, for sure. Sorry to see the Ice Spikers' damage, I have those too. I haven't noticed anything yet, but thanks for the heads up. This is the 2nd winter for mine, although I commuted on the fatbike for about 1/2 of last winter.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ my front looks okay, and the rear has plenty of similar angled threads showing but none of them seem close to splitting. From schwalbe's website I can't tell how long the warranty is, but I hope they'll agree it's a defect.

I'd expect these to last at least 5 years. The nokians on my backup bike (which have sidewalls that could stop a bullet) are still in great shape.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^I got the Ice Spikers because I was disappointed in the Nokian stud wear/grip after 1 season, particularly on highly crowned (off camber) icy dirt roads. They did see some pavement too though.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ the gripiness of my icespikers wasn't impressing me this year, so I took a utilityknife and cut some of the rubber off the knobs, to better expose the tip of the studs. I was impressed with the results, and it seems like a decent way to rejuvenate tires that have seen some wear. I should take some photos.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Well, after several hours of cursing, learning, cutting new housing and cables, and the like, it's done. I'll need a new stem, but I've got plenty of spacers. Other than that, I'm set. I'll swing by the the LBS tomorrow and snag a short one. Have to figure out what's going on with the left brake lever. It's slow to return like something's binding inside, but it was doing this without cable, so I know that it's not housing or setup. I'll give a drop of lube and see if that doesn't fix it.

Going out first thing in the morn to give it a serious test, but so far, it's passed the neighborhood block quiz.

So, without further hesitation, I present to you "El Guapo 2.0"


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ nice work. The shifters look great. You're going to rewrap everything when your new levers arrive?


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

No, I'll probably keep these levers. However, things will be wrapped. I need to shorten the housing on my left side, and I saw some awesome Lone Star State wrap that is tugging on my heart strings. 

I do need to get the stem situation taken care of, though. That mess is not gonna fly for me.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Looks good sir!! I see that you are still rolling the Avatar. How do you like it?


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Loving it Tex!

Me.. I removed the rack and swapped the shwalbe marathons for the kenda small block 8s.. Taking her for a play on the trails tomorrow 

Gotta admit.. Looks so much cooler with the 2.1" tyres and no rack 

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Up late tonight switching back to flat. Ride it 10 miles to a buddy's house yesterday morning and it was hell. Brake levers stick, bar is too far out, can't brake and shift at the same time for coming to a light. Looks like I'll be saving up for some Retroshifters before I go off on this again.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Bugger.. Oh well, nothing ventured nothing gained right?

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Too bad, tex. My dropbar conversion took a couple of tries to get right, and it was (primarily) a single speed which made it easier.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Single speed and this thing would have been a breeze.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ you could try mounting the shifters on accessory bars to get them close to the hoods. But I found that having a 2-way shifter (letting you push both levers) works better than trying to pull the upshift trigger.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

newfangled said:


> ^ you could try mounting the shifters on accessory bars to get them close to the hoods. But I found that having a 2-way shifter (letting you push both levers) works better than trying to pull the upshift trigger.


I've got Sram push/push levers on my Jamis. I could definitely see that working well with drops. Really, though, the Retroshifters look so beautiful to say no. Although the wifey isn't buying it.


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

I finally got one of those handlebar-mounted (coffee) cup holder, which is essentially a 4-5" diameter ring that holds a standard-sized cup. I got it from Target; it's a Bell brand. I don't drink coffee, so I just have hot soy drink. It's nice to have something warm to drink right at your disposal, especially on cold mornings.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Brakes are rubbing somewhere from changing over bars and brake levers last night. I don't know where, but I'll be finding out tonight. Made this mornings ride hell. All the work of a taller gear for none of the speed.


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## cr45h (Jan 13, 2007)

removed brakes, removed drop bars. ordered new parts a week or so ago


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

An update on this:


newfangled said:


>


Filled in the warranty form on Friday, and got an email today from schwalbe saying that they'll ship a new tire tomorrow. Whoo!

I've built a couple of computers over the years, and have had just about every component fail. RMAs with electronics manufacturers can be like pulling teeth - one video card company had a $50 fee just to start a claim. But the few bike warranty issues I've had have been painless.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^  :thumbsup: :rockon:


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Sweet deal on the warranty claim! Always good to know when a company stands behind their product. 

Looking at some Shimano integrated levers and shifters for 8 speed. I like the smooth look, and my right hand shifter has a lot of play in it, even after the setup from the LBS. It was to be expected. It's stock from 7 years ago, and was not well taken care of. 

Also looking at having it tuned up and put spot on again before the race at the end of the month. Mainly because I just goof around with things until I get something that I can live with, instead of something proper. It's 45 dollars well worth it in my opinion. But, if I have them install the shifters, I get a tune up anyway.


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## Sanath (Jul 20, 2012)

newfangled said:


> one video card company had a $50 fee just to start a claim


Assuming they're still in business, which one? So I know which to stay far away from.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I think I'm going to say Sapphire? It was probably almost 10 years ago, though. I was pretty annoyed at the time, since it was a midlevel card that was 2 years old when a capacitor died or whatever, and an equivalent would have been $50 anyway, and they wanted me to pay shipping both ways too. But I had problems RMAing ram and a motherboard too.


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## JAMarco1 (Mar 2, 2010)

I bought a set of Nitto Albatross bars for my Brown GT but it made the cockpit a little too cramped so I installed them on my 84 Fisher Mt. Tam just for shiggles and lo and behold it felt like a perfect match. This is a pic from this mornings commute. I also mounted a pair of Planet Bike Cascadia 60mm fenders to cover up my 26x2.35 Big Apples. And I switched out the brake levers to Shimano BL-R550.. Other than that this bike is all original


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## KentheKona (Jul 6, 2013)

I just had to change my chain last night. My god, I had no idea how badly winter beats up a chain.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

JAMarco1 said:


> ...I installed them on my 84 Fisher Mt. Tam just for shiggles and lo and behold it felt like a perfect match.


That yellow Fisher is a beaut.


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## Aaron1017 (Jun 1, 2010)

Windsor Clockwork. Perfect commuter for Florida with 46x16 gearing.

Changes:
Used Salsa flat handlebar
Oury Lockon grips wrapped in road bar tape
Used Avid SpeedDial mountain levers
Panaracer RIBMO 28mm tires
Specialized Airlock tubes
Homemade tangle bag
Mounted Lezyne pump
PDW DangerZone blinky
ACS Crossfire 16T freewheel


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

Skinny slicks finally went onto the Casseroll.
Studded tires and front fender onto the Ute.
Weather is so up and down I will actually use both completely different setups in the same week.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Triage morning.

One of the sidewall patchjobs on icespiker is not holding, so that bike is out of commission until I can fix it again on the weekend, or until the warranty replacement arrives.

But my fixie was also out of commission with a trashed driveside pedal, and the replacement for that hasn't arrived either. 

So had to do a quick pedalswap this morning and head out on the fixie.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Picked up a flat bar which has shipped already! on eBay for my SS. Bullhorns are not that great with the new rise of the carbon fork on there. Gonna give it a try with a flat bar, and with some OURY lock on grips. Looking forward to riding with those again, as I used these on most of my mountain bikes.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Updated shot of the cockpit with the new shifters and all gripping areas wrapped in Republic of Texas bar tape.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

That's a pretty good wrap job there. What did you use near the stem? That is the place that gave me absolute fits when I tried to wrap a simple pair of bullhorns. My OCD got the best of me, yanked the tape and ordered track grips instead.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

TenSpeed said:


> That's a pretty good wrap job there. What did you use near the stem? That is the place that gave me absolute fits when I tried to wrap a simple pair of bullhorns. My OCD got the best of me, yanked the tape and ordered track grips instead.


I started at the stem with a strip of electrical tape and then wrapped the bar tape around it. The ends are then capped off on the tips of the bar ends.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Is the whole bike wrapped in green tape?


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Yuuuup.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

I had a pedal fail a couple of weeks ago, and got my replacements yesterday. Figured I would give plastic a shot to see if it's less of a heatsink during the winter:










If they'd come in two days earlier I'd have been able to test them at -15F, but now we're up around 50F so I guess that will have to wait.

Also picked up a zero-offset seatpost. My dropbar conversion has been working pretty well for about 6 months now, but I figured I'd try to tweak it a bit and cut the reach down. Figured this was cheaper than an uncut fork.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Broke down and picked up a set of Planet Bike fenders for my TriCross. I really didn't want to do it but if I want to ride right now, and not clean my bike every day, this is how it will have to be. Spent 2.5 hours wiping down both bikes, and making small adjustments to each. Finally got the rear brake on the TriCross installed and rub/drag free. Very happy to have that back and working. Going to install the fenders tomorrow if I get time.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Why no to the fenders? I think every commuter bike needs them.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I hate the aesthetics of them on a personal level. I appreciate the functionality of them, but sometimes I do things because it looks nice, not because it works well. At least for now, I will run the fenders. Looks like I can commute all week, but I will run into the same problem I have so far with wet roads, so they will serve their purpose.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Yeah, I'm not big on ascetics. Even if I studied it in philosophy. I'm much more utilitarian in that regard. Function over fashion, I suppose you could say. That doesn't mean that I don't care about how a bike looks, however. I obviously have put forth effort to that end.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

McGyver should be my middle name after installing these Planet Bike fenders. Now, part of that is my fault. I am inpatient big time. Sent my buddy a text that works at the shop that sold me the fenders. The directions say for bikes with disc brakes, try this other model of fenders. They would have to order those he said. I can't wait, so I rigged it up. Not bad for about 2 hours of work.

1. Front fender mounts will not clear the brake caliper, moved to rack mounts instead. Gives it a better look I think. Fits pretty well.
2. Rear fender mounts will not clear the brake caliper, removed one mount, used the others. Will not clip to the support near the bottom bracket, don't know what that is called, so I bent it out of the way and bolted it to the hole that was already there. Rear mount will not fit chainstay hole, so it is zip tied on both sides instead. Fit is just OK.

Shop manager said have some time and patience, I will need both. I didn't think that it was that bad once I figured out that the fenders really don't fit the bike that well. The adjustments once it was mounted were fairly easy because I figured out quickly how this was and wasn't going to work. There is no rubbing, and they are fairly even side to side, but I am noticing that there are uneven gaps as far as the radius of it goes. I don't know that I care about that as much as I do the possibility of water/muck getting on the bike from the fenders being too far over on one side.

Monday will be the test commute with them on. I can already tell that the one mount that I did not use will be an issue. There is a non removable bolt just dangling there, and the rattling will drive me insane. I will probably Dremel that off in the morning because I cannot stand rattling on a bike, and that was one of the things holding me back on the fenders. If I decide to keep them, which I more than likely will, I will pull them and Plasti-Dip the entire thing matte black to tone it down. I looked at the store today for some colorful duct tape that had an orange theme to it without being floral, and came up empty handed.










Since I had the rear wheel off to mount the rear fender, I managed to get my rear rotor back on and adjusted, however I am getting some drag on there and the brake barely works. May have to succumb to the shop for this one. Brakes and I are arch enemies, as are derailleurs and tubes. Everything else I can manage lol.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^Those came out nice! I'm no full fender expert, but from hanging here I've learned P-clamps from the hardware store are McGyver favorites for fenders.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

I don't know if you cut down the stays already, but you can try two things for the disc side:

-a 5-10mm spacer and a longer bolt through the frame braze-on to clear the brake, or
-a 5ish mm spacer and a much longer bolt run through the IS tab for the brake adaptor.

Both would work, but there is really no way for a traditional disc brake mount and fenders to look clean.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Do fenders ever go on as advertised? I know I've had to improvise with both sets I own. They can be frustrating to install.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

When I bought mine, the guys at the shop insisted that they put them on, not because I was incapable, but because it requires so much modification that I would have needed their huge drawer of screws and nuts. It was insane, to be honest. After watching the amount of trouble they went through to install them, I won't be taking them off.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

^^I've installed 2 sets. 2 out of 3 went on in <15 min. The 3rd set required cutting the fenders, grinding down the fork under the crown and a special bracket to hold it all together, more like a 2 hour install.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Thank you all for the advice. For the front, there is no way with out several spacers that it will mount to the correct point, so the front I am just going to leave. The rear is closer though, so that may work. I tried to get it to the brake mount, but that won't work either without some severe modifications. Trial run today for sure, high of 48F today. Should be some nice melt going on for me to ride through.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Bought a KORE litebar flat bar for my SS off of eBay. It came yesterday and I just put it on today. Was worried about the width even though I measured 15 times and clicked pay now once. Ended up being not much wider than my bullhorns, so now it is time to go with the old standby OURY lock on grips that I used on all of my mtbs. Was waiting before I ordered to make sure that the bar was good, and it is. Looks great, and is lighter than the bullhorns, but makes the bike look very plain.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Wheels in need of a true.. Riding home yesterday think "Hmmmm something doesn't feel right.." look down, Yup.. Rear wheel wobbling like mad.. Bunch of loose spokes -.- bike is booked in for a service tomorrow anyway so on the bus today and will let them deal with that..

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

Swapped out the Delgado rim for a new Synergy. 15000km+ on the Delgado, only about 1.5mm of brake wear on each side. I sure wish more rim manufacturers would include rim wear indicators. I suppose, that most people don't ride their rims long enough to make it through the wear indicator. Stupid consume-and-waste society.


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

Bought these:

*Niterider Lumina 700 light*








Bontrager NCS fenders

and a Shimano 105 chain


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Still juggling handlebars. Swapped the On One Mary bar (really sweepy alt-bar) off of my hardtail and put it on my fixie, and swapped the Ragley Carnegie bar (less sweepy alt-bar) from the fixie to the hardtail.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

New rear tube, adjusted saddle position, and I've been playing with stem angles. Also grabbed myself a pair of yellow tinted glasses for night riding. Interested to see how they perform. I remember them being a huge help in low light target practice.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Just following up on the Nashbar Euro Panniers. After using them for a bit, I can definitely say that they are well worth the price.

The suspension system is similar to higher end fare, using webbing and ladder locks, versus the somewhat floppier bungee cord style. Between the ladder lock and buckles, the panniers stay securely attached, even over rough terrain. The only problem that I can foresee is if there is no detent to attach the hook in, the bottom of the bag could slide around.








The bag(s) are meant to attach to each other over the top of the rack, as the buckles are connected to hardware on the opposite side. You could attach them to a front rack or use them individually if you wrapped the excess strap over the top rail and clipped it in on the same pannier.








There are included rain covers, which have their own pouch (but are detachable) as well as two outer pockets per pannier. The pockets can't hold much by themselves, but are good for storing small objects like repair items or food/whatnot. The rain covers are mandatory if it is raining, due to the design of the main compartment, which is slightly open, even when securely shut.

To sum up, if you can grab them on sale, and are looking to try panniers, they are a worthwhile investment.


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## Bakudan (May 19, 2011)

I flipped the stem on my roadbike before riding home from work today. I wanted to see what it was like riding in a lower position. I liked it. It felt really comfortable.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Changed out the stock spring in the rockshox xc28tk forks to a heavier spring to better suit my clydeness... Amazed at how damned simple it was!

Also had it serviced.. Wheels trued.. Broken spoke fixed.. New chain fitted... Bought a garmin etrex 20.. Macguyvered a gps mount with a piece of carpet and two elastic bands...

Bring on the trails Sunday morning!!!

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> Also grabbed myself a pair of yellow tinted glasses for night riding. Interested to see how they perform. I remember them being a huge help in low light target practice.


Clear lenses are your best bet for night riding. Though, don't go cheap with optics. Cheap lenses are your enemy.


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## Sanath (Jul 20, 2012)

Put a different cheap headlight on my bike, and took off the MS with a bad driver circuit. At some point I'll disassemble and repair the MS but it'll be tough since I have no idea what some of the chips are (they're 100% unmarked). May have to make my own driver to fit in there.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

rogbie said:


> Clear lenses are your best bet for night riding. Though, don't go cheap with optics. Cheap lenses are your enemy.


The yellows did amazing, actually. My commute is all city, especially when I get downtown. The ability to cut down headlight glare and over shine is awesome! I sprung for the decentered lens to prevent optical distortion and polarized. Hunters take their stuff seriously, apparently. Lol.

I'll be rewrapping my bars this evening, since I've kinda bunched things up due to a heavy grip. I'll also be doing a deep clean of the drive train, since it needs it something terrible. Wife is gonna break the seam on my favorite pair of chamois shorts and see if the pad can be replaced. It broke in two a few days ago and bunched up toward the rear, putting a lot of pressure on my sciatica and causing some extreme discomfort. Hoping to be able to find something similar to replace it with. Might hit up the fabric store and pick up some memory foam. Hello comfort


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

After a couple years, the plastic seatstay mount cracked in half. I had some spare wire and hooked this up a couple days ago. It's been super solid. Bonus? Matches the copper rivets on the brooks.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Sanath said:


> Put a different cheap headlight on my bike, .... May have to make my own driver to fit in there.


The best LED drivers in the business: TaskLED Home


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Got my warranty replacement icespiker pro from schwalbe, and put it on even though it's going to come off again in 2 weeks. Noticed a third split in the sidewall of the old one - it's just falling apart.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Took it for a ride on the xc tracks up at jarrahdale after have it serviced and spoke replaced yesterday... Rear derailleur adjustment is worse than when it went in, and I snapped another spoke..

Bike purchased new in January.. Snapped a spoke Wednesday.. Had it replaced Friday (not ridden in between) .. Snapped another spoke first ride out. Yup, you can bet your arse this store will be replacing more than just he one broken spoke this time and I ain't going to be paying a dime for it.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Yeah, that's definitely not right. I had a wheel that spontaneously broke spokes, but that didn't start until after a year or two of wear. The general saying is that if more than a few break then the whole wheel should be rebuilt, since the rest will have been stressed weirdly. What kind of bike is it?


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Avanti Montari 29.3... They're a kiwi brand, don't seem to be sold anywhere but Australia and NZ

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Just dropped the wheel back into the shop n they'll be following up with their wheel supplier tomorrow.. 

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

My LBS has been blowing out winter gear for 40% off, which is better than my employee discount.

I picked up an Endura Luminite jacket in hi-viz green. Looks pretty nice. I've been using my old Marmot Precip jacket for layering purposes on the bike. It's an awful color for commuting - red. The first color you lose at night and the last you can see well in the morning.

The Endura jacket has a lot of reflective area, also on the arms, so it should help with visibility of hand signals, too. And it has an embedded blinky low on the back. It's not a big or especially bright one, but every little bit helps. I didn't really buy it for the blinkie. Moreso the overall visibility of the jacket.

Not sure how much use it'll actually get this season. I'm working from home a lot with the new job right now and will probably be doing that for a couple of months. I have to supply my own laptop computer in order to work at the office and it'll take a little while before I have enough saved up for that. Besides, I'm doing a lot of deliveries all over the city right now and pretty much have to use my car.

I probably will use it a little later this spring, at least in the mornings.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Picked up a crank brothers stem on clearance at MEC. With all of the bar swapping I've been doing I was thinking of trying something with a little more reach:










I thought it might look cool, but on my fixie it looks absolutely terrible.

I got it fully intending to take it back if I didn't like it, and so it's going back tonight or tomorrow. Reach seems like an improvement though, so I'll have to be on the lookout for a non-terribly-ugly replacement.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

That is a great looking stem, but on anything other than a black or silver bike, would probably look out of place.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ it's a black bike with some silver accents and white logos, which is why I thought it might work. But the faceplate is huge - at least a third wider than a typical stems - and because it's so square it almost looks like a bmx stem. I could definitely see it working on a burly all-mountain ride, but on my retro-ish fixie it doesn't work at all. It's like having a giant beltbuckle on there.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

If you wanted a DIY light that would bolt in place of the cap, You'd have room of a big lens/reflector or two or three smaller ones.  Not a small project, but it has been done.


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## pigmode (Nov 15, 2009)

The Mission Workshop Fitzroy backpack.


IMG_1139 by pigmode, on Flickr


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## mechBgon (Jan 28, 2007)

New chain (PC-951) and cassette (11-28 PG-950), and I reinstalled my dynamo headlight (which had been removed temporarily so I could strap lumber alongside the top tube).

I also washed up the bike, now that the worst of winter has passed (_he said, jinxing himself_). Then I went on a group mountain-bike ride with six guys on their all-mountain-y FS bikes as darkness fell. That went as well as could possibly be expected on a full-rigid commuter with mild-tread 2.0" tires and a 36f x 28r low gear.


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## digitalayon (Jul 31, 2007)

swapped my forks....gone rigid


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

pigmode said:


> The Mission Workshop Fitzroy backpack.


Nice looking bag. American made. Not cheap. The green would be nice on my bike. I'd have to Macgyver a rack mount for it.


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## Tomahawk3Niner (Feb 13, 2014)

Howdy folks, my commuter is also my MTB (only bike right now, looking to change this!) 

Today all I did was ride it into work. Yesterday however I installed a rear rack so I could haul my lunch box with me. Am looking at getting something like a cyclocross bike for road riding/commuting and leaving my X-Cal for the dirt!


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

I attached the U Lock mount to the only place that it would work.... the fork leg.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Wife is out on a girls night, and I've got the three monsters. Once they lay down, I'll be giving the commuter a full wipe down, complete cleaning of the drive train, repairing some duct tape (never expected that to be a thing) and some general fine tuning. The Avatar saddle is still causing quite a bit of post ride pain, and during ride discomfort. I'm not liking it at all, so I'll be tossing it up on Craigslist soon. Placed an order for the parts I needed to get the Jamis back up and going, as well as a WTB Pure V. I'm interested to see what the Pure V can do for me. Every review I read appeared positive, and at less than half the price of the Avatar, I had to take it.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I've got 3 Pure Vs, so count me as another positive review. But I've also tried the RocketV and SpeedV and liked them all. Hope it works for you. There's nothing worse than a painful saddle.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

newfangled said:


> ^ I've got 3 Pure Vs, so count me as another positive review. But I've also tried the RocketV and SpeedV and liked them all. Hope it works for you. There's nothing worse than a painful saddle.


Everyone I've spoken with about the Pure V recommends it. I've searched out for a poor review, and haven't found one. The only reviews that I've found that could be considered poor is "great saddle, but didn't work with my sit bones." I just hope it's here by time for my century ride on next Sunday. I'm gonna be in plenty of pain come Monday, I don't need to add hip/rear end issues to it.

I got a wild hair and decided to switch out bar ends to little stubbies and back to the green bar tape. Just because I can...


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

What color Avatar and what size? I love it so much I would pick up another for my TriCross.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

143mm.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Replaced the alivio rear derailleur and right hand shifter with XT... Much frustration and head scratching... Cable got all funky in the shifter somehow so had to be replaced (good thing I had spare...) now just needs adjusting!

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Pure V has shipped. Hoping to have it in time to get things dialed in before the big ride. Had to make an emergency run to the LBS to warranty swap my Thunderbolt tail light. Damn thing wouldn't take a charge. Obviously a fluke or my own doing, since no one I know who uses it has encountered this before.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I've been ignoring a clicking noise, but I just about lost my sanity on Monday. I could hear the noise bouncing off buildings as I passed and couldn't shut it up no matter how gently I pedaled. So I finally found some time to grease and tighten all the bolts related to my crankset. The Cannondale I ride has a stupid four bolt CODA system that requires the drive side of the crankset to be removed before you can access all the bolts. If the click had remained after greasing the chainring bolts and the crank bolts, I probably would have lost it. Fortunately, the problem was solved.


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## Tomahawk3Niner (Feb 13, 2014)

I added a top tube bag with a big window on the top that holds my Droid Maxx in an Otterbox perfectly.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Installed OURY lock on grips on a new to me flat bar. Going to try that out instead of the bullhorns until the warm weather gets here. Bullhorns are fine when I have my really padded Specialized BG gloves on, but with other gloves, the thin grips really hurt my hands. Pumped up the tires (which I never have good luck with) and am ready to ride here to work shortly. Installed a new black Incredibell because I figure that runners and walkers with dogs will be out....and they will be paying attention to everything but bikers. Adjusted chain tension, lubed chain, visually inspected tires, double checked fork and headset install from shop to ensure nothing was loose. That really is it. Not much else to check on a single speed with a coaster brake, and that is why I truly enjoy this bike. Crank arms and pedals were inspected before last ride, along with seatpost collar and saddle rails. Charged my lights, put black reflective tape on the clasps of my messenger bag, and I am done. 

Trying out some new glasses today that I picked up on sale at Performance Bikes. Scattante Quantum in white. 2 sets of lenses, brown tint and a really cool reddish yellow reflective that really caught my eye. They fit my face as well, which is a huge selling point. Also going to try my new Chrome casual shoes that are SPD. Have not ridden in these yet, just waiting for the weather to be dry so they don't get ruined my first time out. They have a really stiff sole which I love because the softer the sole, the more it hurts my foot. I may have some cleat interference though, as I tried them out in the parking lot and I was having some issue with I believe the left. Will have to visually inspect this later after my ride.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

This brutal winter killed (ok, "stretched") my chain in only 2.5 months (6 months is more typical)...so much salt and spooge and grit. Put on a new chain yesterday and hoping for spring. Shined it up pretty. It stayed shiny today thanks to my dog eating up my bikecommuting time with a 75 minute flyer during his walk (I rode).


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ that's pretty crazy. I'm used to getting a winter out of a chain so I haven't even checked mine recently. It'll be coming off in a week or two though.


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## Mirrorsaw (Jul 7, 2013)

I changed a flat tire yesterday. First one. In just shy of a year of commuting (May 18th is when I started) and since September 21st commuting round trip pretty much every day. One flat is pretty good. (3000 miles on my new bike, I got it September 21st...)


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Full wipe down of my CX bike along with a fender removal. Roads/paths here are for the most part dry now. These may be reinstalled later on in the season when the white stuff flies again. I don't plan on riding to work in the rain.

Also working on acquiring a new to me set of used wheels that are an upgrade to my stock ones. Hoping that this works out for me.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I started the artwork on my fakie. Plain white frame is just screaming for something off the wall. I had ordered some knock off Titus decals for it, but they got ruined when I was wiping the bike down. I removed them except left the headtube "badge" decal because that one is perfect still. White frame + black Sharpie + lots of time to kill = some sweet artwork (hopefully) Will post when I am done with it. Still thinking that I may do something with the white deep dish wheel with black spokes, just not sure what yet. Anyone have any ideas???


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ you could get a set of custom decals made:


I talked to a bunch of the vinyl places around me, but they all wanted a $70 setup fee even if I was giving them a file and they just had to hit print. I don't begrudge them that, but there are plenty of places online that will do it cheap.

I ended up using Custom Vinyl Decals, Car & Truck Window Decals, Vinyl Graphics and got an 11x17 sheet shipped to Canada for something like $15. I had to do the layout in photoshop, and then cut the decals out myself, but it all worked really well.

Not sure what you did to your Titus decals, but I've cleaned my with a basic degreaser plenty of times, and after 2 years they're still fine.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Rear wheel needs to be retensioned


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## woodway (Dec 27, 2005)

I am back to daily commuting. I left my previous job at the end of September last year, took six months off (it was wonderful), started a new job this week. I've traded my 36 mile RT commute for a 42 mile RT commute. The new commute is a little flatter and 90% of is on a MUP which is a bonus.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

newfangled - thanks for the link will check that out. The decal itself was fine, but I guess in wiping it down, I distorted the decal, and two of the letters got all stretched out. Not sure when or how this happened, maybe they were still not fully adhered when I did it, but it was disappointing. I measured and had them perfectly centered. Looked completely OEM even up close. 

I am passing on the graffiti as it is not exactly how I want it to turn out. I have another idea though.....stay tuned for details once the weather warms up. I did manage to work on the chainring a little, had to eliminate all the white as it was too much with the bike.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Changed out the acera front derailleur and shifter for slx.. Will adjust it up tomorrow!

Still have an SKS chainboard sitting here waiting to be fitted, need to work out first how to get the crank arm and chainrings off (never done before..). Between youtube, park tools and Zinn I'm sure I'll work it out 

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Pulled the studs off my fixie, and put the bigapples back on. With the studs I could never get the bike to skid, but just from goofing around for a few minutes I can tell it will be a lot easier with the bigapples.

Also discovered that I haven't been carrying a spare tube in my bag, and I have no idea how long that's been the case? The last time I got a flat was almost 2 years ago, and I just added sealant to the tube and headed off again. No idea what happened to my spare tube in the meantime.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Got my vaya prepped for 40+ miles tomorrow. It's in pretty good shape so all it needed was lube and air in the tires. I dug out an old seat bag for my tube and a co2 inflator I got over the winter. I think I ought to buy another multi tool so I can keep one on the commuter and another on the MTB.


All I will need go worry about carrying tomorrow will be my work clothes and a pannier should handle it.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk


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## KentheKona (Jul 6, 2013)

It seems all I ever do is fiddle with my V-brakes. They just always seem to get out of whack.


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## mechBgon (Jan 28, 2007)

I lightened up my mountain-commuter with a Trigon carbon fork off Ebay, and a Tubus Logo titanium rear rack. So that's close to 2 pounds / 1kg less weight to lug up and down the stairs. 

I had to fabricate my own makeshift headlight mount for my Cyo Premium, since the new fork doesn't have any holes, so I got a scrap of 6/4 titanium sheet off Ebay and carved my own headlight mount. It's sandwiched between the fork and the crown race.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Rode it.

Also this weekend, ordered a shorter and taller stem to bring me back and up a little more with less weight on my hands and more erect posture possible, but still allowing for "digging in" when fighting a headwind, etc.

Also ordered an Axiom Journey rear rack, and looked at possibilities for front racks.

Also dug out the original front steel fork with rack braze-ons to re-install when the new stem comes in.



















Also located a decent looking used Ortlieb Office Bag (large). I hope to have it on the way soon. And am negotiating with someone on a very, very lightly used set of Ortlieb Back-Roller classic bags. He is still a little higher than I want to pay, but he has hardly used these things. I only really need one, as I plan to use the Office bag on the other side, but it does not hurt to have an extra.


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## Sanath (Jul 20, 2012)

Swapped my snow tires off! Had to go back to the old tires, though I put the tire with the most tread on the back. Fiddled with things, dropped some oil onto a few frequent problem areas. Hopefully the weather stays clear and I can give the damn bike a good deep clean in a few weeks. Been holding off on new cables and... housings? I'm totally spacing on the name right now. Also figured out what's going on with my front brakes: I'm an idiot and put the rubber band for mounting my new light around the brake cable housing just above the secondary brake lever, giving it just a *bit* more tension.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Picked up a new bike today, so I've been going over everything. 2008 (I think) Cannondale X6 cyclocross bike. Ultegra group with upgraded Dura Ace crank. Spent the evening cleaning the chain, setting up the canti brakes (yikes), switching out rims and treads and saddles and adjusting stems and bar angles and so on and so forth. 

But I'm stoked to see how this thing is gonna go. Need to install fenders and drop it off at the shop for the brakes. I want to be there when they do the whole measurement stuff for the proper setup of cantilevers. It's stuff I need to know and would never learn unless I was able to watch someone else do it.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Converted the 29er back to summer mode - ditched the studs and gears.

Going to try a bigger gear this year. The last 3 summers I've run 33x18, which is okay for the commute but not great. But on the trails I've noticed that there are either hills I can make, or hills I can't, and there's not really much in the middle. So I'm going to try 33x16 for a bit, and hopefully I'll only end up walking an extra hill or two. If that doesn't work I've got a spare 32t chainring I can try out later to ease things up.


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

I put brake pads on!!
EFFIN BRAKE PAAAADS!!

I know, not a big deal, but my maguras were coming to the bar!
Far too many close calls this past week.
Called 8 shops. One had a single set (nice if ya like skidding) but finally found a shop with a full set "somewhere in the basement".
Worth every penny to drop the anchors and stop NOW.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

I just replaced brake pads, today, too. FYI, Koolstop Tectonic inserts don't fit thin line holders (the same standard that pretty much everyone uses).

The good news is that they seem to be okay after a bit of razor trimming and sanding down the back. Going to hold off replacing the back ones until I know they won't fail catastrophically.


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## nemhed (May 2, 2010)

I rode in on a brand new set of Continental Contact touring tires this morning. Not the lightest tires around but they have built in puncture protection and I prefer stout to light any day. So sweet to take off the winter knobbies.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Wound up having to swap the entire fork. I had a new brake boss on order, but apparently they don't make them in that size anymore and didn't tell anyone. So, I now have a full carbon fork and steer tube with Campy road calipers, and still running Tektro Oryx cantis in the back, although I'll probably swap those for some mini V's or something more powerful as I'm able. 

Gonna have to figure out how I'm gonna mount a front fender. The calipers and lack of mounts kinda makes for an interesting challenge, but with the super wet summers we have here in Florida, not having fenders on a commuter just isn't an option. The rear should go on just fine, but that front has me scratching my head. 

Also need to push my saddle back a little bit. I've got some terrible lower back pain, and when I looked in to it I found that having a cramped distances between the saddle and bars causes pressure on the vertebrae in the lumbar area, which sucks.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

installed SLX disc brakes. massive gain in power over the CX-77s.

Nothing was really wrong with the CX-77s. I just wanted something that stopped my 270 pounds a little easier.

the extra hose is looped up and in front of my handlebars. I'll be trimming them when I'm in the shop this week.

good lord these brakes are awesome. I've got a stiffer front wheel that should be here monday. suffice it to say I am incredibly stoked.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> Wound up having to swap the entire fork. I had a new brake boss on order, but apparently they don't make them in that size anymore and didn't tell anyone. So, I now have a full carbon fork and steer tube with Campy road calipers, and still running Tektro Oryx cantis in the back, although I'll probably swap those for some mini V's or something more powerful as I'm able.
> 
> Gonna have to figure out how I'm gonna mount a front fender. The calipers and lack of mounts kinda makes for an interesting challenge, but with the super wet summers we have here in Florida, not having fenders on a commuter just isn't an option. The rear should go on just fine, but that front has me scratching my head.
> 
> Also need to push my saddle back a little bit. I've got some terrible lower back pain, and when I looked in to it I found that having a cramped distances between the saddle and bars causes pressure on the vertebrae in the lumbar area, which sucks.


Sheldon Fender Nut.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

I moved my speedo from my old bike to my new bike. I like looking down to see that im dogging it. Biked 7 times in april, have dropped from 39 minutes to 30.4 mintes (had to get the winter kinks out), hoping to break 30 next week. Last summer i made it in 27 minutes on a 26" would love to break 25 minutes this summer on my 29er.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I don't think the Sheldon Fender Nut is going to work. I'm dealing with a carbon fork with no mounts. I'm thinking I'll have to do a downtube guard with a rear fender, as much as that screws with my desire for symmetrical ascetic.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

So you have a Campy sidepull mounted through the crown of the fork? I assume the steering tube provides a hole under the crown above the tire? If so, I discovered that a PVC plumbing cap fit the inside diameter of the crown's steering tube end. Drilling a hole across the caps through its side lets you suspend it from the brake mounting bolt with the cap top down. A hole drilled in the center of the cap top with a short small bolt in it lets you fasten the fender above the tire hidden under the crown. 

Sorry, I never took picture of it. P clamps with inner tube linings can handle the struts for the bottom end.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Installed my new Axiom Journey rear rack, and my new to me but used Ortlieb Office Bag for my laptop and work stuff. Plenty of heel room and fits great!

Also, you can see my new one handed thermos that fits my bottle cage, for holding morning commute coffee. Very important!










Here is the Axiom Journey without the bag on it.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

sunvalleylaw said:


> Installed my new Axiom Journey rear rack, and my new to me but used Ortlieb Office Bag for my laptop and work stuff. Plenty of heel room and fits great!
> 
> Also, you can see my new one handed thermos that fits my bottle cage, for holding morning commute coffee. Very important!
> 
> ...


Lol I have the same rack (disc version) and bag (in grey)... Good combination!

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Picked up some rear Ortlieb Panniers used today, in really good shape. Yes, orange can be ugly, unless you embrace it.  I think they will be great!

My Commuter build/conversion thread. '89 Fisher Paragon


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## digitalayon (Jul 31, 2007)

Bought some new grips.....ordered new rear derailleur wheels since i was cleaning and found current ones cracked on the XTR rear derailleur and in preparation to receiving the dual control lx setup and swapping out the x9 and the x7 shifters. getting ready for a long week of parts swapping.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Got me a bikelink card. Pretty nice


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Stuck a second cog on my singlespeed today. The past few years I've run 33x18, which is a little too spiny on flats. This year I tried 33x16, but after a couple of rides it was clear it was too tall for trails. Switched to 32x16 and did a big ride today, and it was still too big for some trails.

So I'm going to try it as a sortof dinglespeed, with one ring upfront, and a 16t and 18t in the back. I figure I'll have a higher "weekday" gear, and on the weekends I can slide the dropouts forward if I'm going to hit the harder trails. I might try a real dinglespeed setup later on with two rings and two cogs so that I won't have to keep adjusting the sliders, but to do that I'd need to pickup another cog.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Past few days have been quite busy on the Cannondale. Lubed all housing, changed out front fork, lubed brifters, and the usual maintenance. Tonight I carved out some of the recess in my shoes and elongated the slots for my SH56 cleats. I'm going for a more midfoot position. I did it a little in the back work room at the office today before leaving and not once did I have to come off the 53t ring. I understand I'm just a "masher", but I set some PR's on Strava and still feel like I have fresh legs after a hard 18 miles. Cool stuff. 

About to lube my saddle rails. I've got a creak and I swear that's where it's coming from.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Slots cutout and part of the sole removed. Cleats pushed toward the sole by 13 mm. Was different, but strangely natural around the block. Looking forward to giving it a good 18 mile run tomorrow morning.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Just installed some Avid SD7 brakes and SD7 levers with some Koolstop pads. I got my Ergon GP1 grips last week along with my Blackburn trunk bag. Getting a set of Ortlieb back roller classics just deciding on color.


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## moxnix (Nov 19, 2011)

Swapped the bars from 680mm to 720, added a second cage. 

Need to diagnose a clunk in the drive train which only happens above 50kph.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

moxnix said:


> Swapped the bars from 680mm to 720, added a second cage.
> 
> Need to diagnose a clunk in the drive train which only happens above 50kph.


50kph? Not sure if serious or a typo?


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

TenSpeed said:


> 50kph? Not sure if serious or a typo?


That's about 31mph. I hit that going down hills every day. Not impossible.


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## SlowJoeCrow (Mar 16, 2009)

I need to diagnose the creak in the BB I replaced 2 months ago, probably more grease and careful application of the torque wrench. BTW FSA Power Drive BBs are almost impossible to find, I got lucky and scored a 118mm from a Trek dealer. I also need to adjust the Hayes MX-2 brakes since they are getting slack, I think I may need to get new pads this year.


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## moxnix (Nov 19, 2011)

TenSpeed said:


> 50kph? Not sure if serious or a typo?


Serious, but it is only a few kms. The speed limit down the hill is 50 and I really dislike riding the brakes on the parallel bike path. 200 meters of elevation loss in 1.5kms.
I'm fairly certain it is my cassette.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

moxnix said:


> Serious, but it is only a few kms. The speed limit down the hill is 50 and I really dislike riding the brakes on the parallel bike path. 200 meters of elevation loss in 1.5kms.
> I'm fairly certain it is my cassette.


Chased a guy on a cross bike down about 1.6 km of commuting flat, no wind slight grade down with the river....started at 48.8 kph ended at 44 kPh....50 kph is completely doable...

Fun part we then have to slow do a 180 and climb a short steep hill back up to the road...

Buddy jumps off and runs the hill just like a cross bike.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

^^ Cat 6 cyclocross! That's intense.


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## digitalayon (Jul 31, 2007)

I added on set of v brakes today and had my lock on grips machined on one of the easton clamps to go from closed and to open to allow bar ends.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

Took my speedo off and useless front fender, installed the handle bar mount for my lifeproof case on my stem. Moved my bell under my bars tucked up to my shifter, looks alot cleaner and less commuter like. 

Have blue tooth headphones coming from amazon, under seat bag, co2 pump, bottle cage, squeeze bottle water bottle coming in from mec. 

Will be great to have water and tools on me during lunch rides and not need a pack.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Received and fitted Ortlieb Back Rollers. Really, not much to fit, as they were adjusted to work perfectly on my rack as is. I found these for basically 2 for one on craigslist. They were not even used but sat in an attic. Unfortunately one got snagged on a nail so I have to repair a small rip. no big deal, especially as this second one was basically free. I will mostly use just one (except for touring) as I will be using my office bag for work stuff and a back roller for clothes, lunch, etc.

Also, you can see my bike with my front road wheel on it (but brake not connected) as I am playing around with the idea of using 700c wheels front and rear, or maybe even running it as a commuting 69'er.

Hoping to get that rigid fork back on there soon. Been busy, so haven't found time to tackle the project yet.


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## junior1210 (Sep 9, 2011)

solarplex said:


> Took my speedo off ..........


TMI

Sorry, I couldn't pass that one up.:lol:


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## moxnix (Nov 19, 2011)

New cages (that match), I had a mis-matched but my CDO (OCD in alphabetical order) took over. New Mallets, bought orange 2s, to see if they'd match the Spec Ops- no go so the orange go on the commuter and the silver get fatty duty.

I'm on a Scott Aspect 910 and looking for a good rear fender other than seat post or seat tube.


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## Andy_K (Mar 19, 2014)

Installed new TRP HY/RD brakes. I had enough troubles with the old ones that TRP replaced them for me.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Couple of things today. First, I finally got my original fork back on, replacing a heavy, old, Rock Shox. A friend of mine let me work on it in his bike shop, and helped me a bit along the way. The frame looks way better with that curvy old fork back on, IMHO.










Second, it was free new and old stuff day! A frame builder friend of mine just gave me brand new Planet Bike Fenders, an old set of Blackburn lights, and a new Ortlieb handlebar bag. I won't need the handle bar bag commuting, but it will come in handy touring.










Not a bad day!


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

junior1210 said:


> TMI
> 
> Sorry, I couldn't pass that one up.:lol:


Never leave the house without a speedo. Never know when you will need it


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

New chain and a basically new cassette that was on my studded wheelset went on the commuter last night. Shifting bliss this morning. I went through the whole fleet with the chain checker last night and they were all great except the commuter... let it go too long. A hint of shark-tooth going on with the cassette, but the front chainrings look good.


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## Sanath (Jul 20, 2012)

Been screwing with it since mid April, messing with seat height and angle and whatever. I don't know if it'll work out for me, I certainly haven't hit a position that's super comfy yet. I got measured on an ass-o-meter and then they recommended some $140 seats, which is kinda out of my price range.

Ordered a new helmet too since I smacked my current one into the ground pretty hard over the winter. That'll be here Wednesday, probably.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

If you make them give you the measurements from the ass-O-meter, you can use it to grab a good 36 dollar seat. Which is what I did. It's still Specialized. It's just not gimmicky.


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

Installed a new Gatorskin (wire bead) rear tire; and installed new Avid v-brake pad inserts.


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## Sanath (Jul 20, 2012)

Agwan said:


> If you make them give you the measurements from the ass-O-meter, you can use it to grab a good 36 dollar seat. Which is what I did. It's still Specialized. It's just not gimmicky.


I did, but I had a lot of trouble finding measurements for the cheap seats I was looking at. The Terry I just picked because it had the biggest soft tissue cutout/channel, as far as I could tell visually.


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## moxnix (Nov 19, 2011)

Go to a Specialized dealer and have them measure your sit bone distance, then you select a saddle with that measurement.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Took a stick near the front wheel that tore off my homemade crudcatcher.

(the sharkfin-thing on the fork seen here from a few weeks ago)


Cost me nothing (except a patent infringement on this), and it was the best fender I'd found for my freakish manitou reverse-arch fork. But I also didn't have a lot of mud clearance with my new 2.4 tire, so I'm not sure if I'll make another one.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

5 day on my new fork

Fox 32 Fit with CTD...

Nice lock out function zero pedal bob....but still softens the curbs etc.

Old fork took a beating cause of a bad SKF seal from PUSH...I will not send another fork to them...just as easy to do it yourself and you can use the Enduro seals that are light years ahead of anything else I have tried.

THe CTD lever will have to be moved cause I put it where a rest my hands on the brake reserviors when just easy riding around.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ good to hear that you like the enduro seals. I just rebuilt my fork with them over the winter.


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## woodway (Dec 27, 2005)

Replaced my chain, cassette and big ring. The cassette and big ring lasted over 12,000 miles. Actually while looking at the cassette I realized that only one of the cogs is really worn and so I hunted around without luck for a single replacement cog. Finally gave up and bought a new cassette.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

On my TriCross I did some major adjustments. The bike was comfortable. Almost too comfortable. The cockpit setup reminded me of a cruiser, and that is what I felt like I was riding when I was on it. Handlebar height was too high, saddle too low, so I changed that up. Yanked a spacer, flipped the stem, adjusted the handlebar angle, brake lever angle, and buttoned it all back up. Raised the seatpost just a little bit, not more than a 1/2 of an inch if that and leveled out the saddle the best that I could.

It feels like a whole new bike now!!! I have grown accustomed to the racer feel of my SS even with a 10 degree stem on there. It isn't slammed but it is definitely racer like. Now my other bike feels a lot more like that than a cruiser. I just wanted it to feel more like a road bike than anything, and I think that I got it. I may need to make some more really minor adjustments, like the saddle again, but for the most part, it is a done deal. Not going to trade it off now. In fact, I am probably going to go ahead and order a disc compatible orange Aerospoke wheel for the front. I love it on my SS, so why not? This bike doesn't go off road, in fact, it has been off the pavement once since I got it.

Pretty ecstatic right now to be honest. Almost got rid of it because it just didn't feel right. Glad that I decided to make the changes.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Was finally able to remove a brake boss that had become fuzed itself inside of the canti lever, with the mounting screw fuzed inside of the boss. I finally said screw it, and cut off the canti arm from around the boss with my Dremel and used a torch to finally break the bond. So, I'm now in the process of putting back on the original fork with V brakes all the way around and my fenders installed for rainy season. 

I didn't ride at all last week with my work schedule being so insane. I was able to talk my manager into letting me take home my work truck, even though it's against all sorts of policies, so that helped immensely. 

So, I'm just getting rid of old stuff, and acquiring what I need to finish my true commuter conversion.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Just Plasti-Dipped my Aerospoke on the fakie. This turned out better than I had expected. Waiting for it to dry, then I will peel the dip off the tire, clean everything up and reinstall it. I used the old fork that came with the bike, put the wheel in it, took my work stand outside, and held it horizontally with the steerer tube in the clamp. Not worried about the fork as it is a piece of garbage that I just happened to still have. Spun the wheel, and since the bearings in there are perfect, it spins for days. Gave it a spin, and starting spraying. 

I had purchased the wheel used, so there were some scratches in it, a few light gouges in the finish, and it was bugging me. Now it is a perfect matte black finish. Everything was covered up with the dip. Still debating on doing the entire frame now.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I've wanted to refinish my frame in matte black for some time, but the amount of work involved and my laziness just can't get it done.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Rotated in (f to r) a new tserv after blowing out the sidewall of the same tire 1 month ago.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I just took my commuter completely apart. to send the frame in on warranty. It came from the factory misaligned. thus far it has been a slight headache dealing with the LBS on the issue. but they agree the issue exists.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ was that a Straggler, or am I getting confused?


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

It was indeed a Straggler.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Went to a Cannondale dealer today looking for a washer that slides on the brake boss that the tension spring goes in to to adjust lever tension. And then I found it. I thought I had time warped it into forever gone land, but nope. So now I have to pick up the fork and other washer tomorrow, and then I'll be installing some Single Digit 5 v brakes and some travel agents so that I can fit my fenders on and have a real commuter again.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I'm running Single Digit 5's on two bikes. Such a great intersection of cost and quality. I've run the 7s and honestly didn't find them worth the extra cost.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Agwan said:


> I'm running Single Digit 5's on two bikes. Such a great intersection of cost and quality. I've run the 7s and honestly didn't find them worth the extra cost.


I've used several different brands of V brakes. Shimano, Trektro, and others. But I rode a buddy's cross bike with Single Digit 5's, and thought the same thing. Awesome and well balanced mix of quality, weight, and price. I've heard that the material the SD 7's are made of have less flex and therefore more braking power, but I never noticed it. Especially not for such a big jump in price.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Agwan said:


> It was indeed a Straggler.


The shop couldn't bend the steel back into place, or you didn't want them to? Or was it too bad for that?

And when I needed v-brakes a couple of years ago, I justified the Single Digit 7s because they came with the reuseable brake pad holders, which knocks $5 off the price difference between them and the 5s. Their adjustment screw also has a hexhead, which is so much nicer than the standard philips/flat and is totally worth another $5. (yeah, I'm not convincing myself either...I really just thought they were prettier, and figured these were the last v's I'd ever buy so why not)


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I've got hex head screws, and replaceable pad Kool Dtops to slap on them. I just need my Travel Agents to come in.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Hahaha! That is not a bad reason to buy the 7's. both brakes work great. So whatever gets your motor running is the right choice.

The steel actually isn't bent. I've known since I took the frame home and started building that the drop outs were crooked. I asked my LBS to check it 3 times and they dodged it. So I had them write a work order the 4th time I brought it in for that (As well as routing Alfine servicing) and they did absolutely nothing to the bike other than set it out on the sales floor where customers could play with it.

Add to this the fact that when I went in to pick up the frame the day it was in, they had already opened it. set it on the floor and scuffed the paint ever so slightly (what can I say, I'm a princess)

So this fifth time I went in there and got mean. I didn't want to get mean, I buy these guys beer regularly just because I know I'm a picky, know it all customer. but it was just too much. Someone spends 600 dollars on something, you don't get to open it up and play with it. then not store it properly. you don't get to dodge checking something under warranty and blame my "cheap" wheels for the problem.

especially when I come in there and prove the problem exists in about 45 seconds.

the drive side chain stay appears to be welded on at the wrong angle. side to side spacing is perfect. everything else is true. but the drop outs are not in the same spot front to back, making it impossible to use the wheel with a normal derailler set-up. I am going to powder coat the frame soon. and I want it to be NOT defective when I do.

What bums me out is I am riding my New Old Stock 95 Rockhopper until I get the Straggler back. I JUST put a set of SD5s on it. and I have some trigger shifters coming in the mail to replace the Grip Shifts.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Had a Shimano M525 setup fixed gear with a VeloSolo cog 16t. The hub exploded on a ride and some of the parts went flying off, luckily I have a spare wheel to use, so while doing the wheel swap I gave the commuter some TLC.

1. Pulled cranks; re-greased everything
2. Greased seatpost and seatpost clamp bolt
3. Greased stem bolts
4. Swapped brake lever to old XTR lever; Avid lever was bent
5. Put 3 scoops of Stan's in rear wheel setup tubeless (no flats here please)
6. Replaced ESI Chunky grips, were shredded, with a pair of Ergons I had sitting around; greased Ergon bolts
7. Adjusted BB7 brake pads
8. Added two king cages on front fork (holds my beers  )
9. Re-greased pedals
10. Re-greased Paul WORD disc bolts and front hub skewers
11. Checked all bolts to make sure they are all snugly down


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Do you commute on that?


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Yes I do. Most of my commuting is around Minneapolis. The most I really would do for miles on this 30.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

jeffscott said:


> THe CTD lever will have to be moved cause I put it where a rest my hands on the brake reserviors when just easy riding around.


I'm really struggling with this on my new MTB that has a dropper post. That dang lever kills me when my hands instinctively go to that spot. Can't really move it because of the rigid line coming out of it for the first few inches of cable (cable routing is sweet, but the lever has to sit right there behind the brake reservoir.)


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

Been listening to a noise from the RD for the past while...

No matter how I adjusted the tension nothing got rid of it.

Finally caught it up on the stand...turns out the upper jockey wheel slide over to the outboard side and has been rubbing on the RD...along with some of the chain...

So betcha I just wore out a jockey wheel...


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

^^ Nice when it's the cheaper problem. 


I got the 'ol Nashbar 'cross frame down from the rafters last night and started swapping parts around... There are a couple Strava road segments around here that I just can't conquer with a 44 tooth big ring :lol: Everyone needs a "gravel bike" now, right? 

Question: if all the hipsters are starting to ride "gravel bikes" now, but I was riding a disc braked 'cross bike before it was cool, what will I be when I put this thing together?


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

hopefully you'll be riding your bike.

I just wanted a road bike that handled my weight and general abuse. I'm not to thrilled for the title, but I'm happy for the movement.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

CB is going to stand for "Cool Beforeitwascool" now.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Rebuilt my wheels

















Surly Ultra New Hubs, WTB Chriscross rims (tubeless!), and Sapim Laser spokes (blue alloy nips). Saved almost 2 pounds off the original wheels.

By the way, if anyone ever goes to build something with DT Revolutions or Sapim Lasers, Sapim's alloy nipples have a surface treatment that helps reduce friction. Makes compensating for wind-up way easier.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I gave my wheels a facelift. Did the front earlier this week. Was a gloss finish, but showed some scratches and usage as I purchased the wheel used. Rear was plain white with black spokes. Left the tires right on the wheel, and went to town. Used the original fork that came with the bike for the front and put it in my stand. For the rear I simply put the bike in the stand by the seatpost, and sprayed downwards at the bottom of the wheel as I spun the wheel. They came out perfectly. Best part about it? Completely removable. I just peel it, and it all comes off, leaving nothing behind.

Paint? Nope.

Plasti-Dip. Can be found at Lowe's, Home Depot, Menard's, etc. Comes in a spray can so you can find it right in the spray paint section. It is not paint, it is rubber.










Seriously contemplating doing the whole bike. Just haven't decided on what color. If I don't like it, I simply peel it off.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Sweet. Can you give us a close-up of the texture?


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Well, the texture really depends on the application. If you spray like I do, you end up with a pretty smooth surface, almost like the back of a rubberized cellphone case. It tends to smooth itself out after multiple coats. I can try to get some close up pictures, but the camera on my phone leaves a little to be desired. Maybe if I can get the right light......


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## p08757 (Mar 15, 2012)

I got this last year on a close out deal at bikeisland.com for $129.00. This past week I've replaced the handlebars, brake levers, brake pads, installed SPD pedals, replaced the seat with one I had in the parts bin, and installed a new 17t free wheel. She is just about done!


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

jeffscott said:


> Been listening to a noise from the RD for the past while...
> 
> No matter how I adjusted the tension nothing got rid of it.
> 
> ...


Turns out the jockey wheel is badly worn....and something probably salt is also slowing the RD movement when the spring pulls it back down the cassette...

Gonna have to use the ultrasound machine to clean it up on the weekend.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Bought a new one 

Picked up a Shogun Samurai roadbike, plus shoes/helmet/lights/pump all for $200 off gumtree. Absolute bargain - the shoes are exustar carbon fibre (in my size!), pump is a giyo carbon fibre pump and everything looks like it's had less than a few months use.. Pics and more details to follow when I get it home to have a good look over it 

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

WarbyD said:


> Bought a new one
> 
> Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


Me too! Kinda. This will not be my every day commuter, but I am excited to commute on it on light days where I don't need to carry much. I got the frame for next to nothing, and a buddy of mine just built it up for me with a mix of used but good and new parts.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Oooo very nice!

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

WarbyD said:


> Oooo very nice!
> 
> Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


Post a pic of yours when you can. Sounds cool!


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Yeah, haven't got home yet haha still sitting in the car atm with it on the back.. Had a bunch of errands to run today lol. Will give it a good going over and get a bunch of pics after I get home

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Here it is!



















Had flat tyres front and rear, both pumped up now and seem to be holding air fine. Tyres still have the little rubber knob bits from mold and Cassette/chain/ring look brand new. This bike has barely been ridden!!

Shoes fit perfectly, but one of the soles is coming away so I'll squirt some glue in there.

Can't believe I got this for $200 all in!

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

WarbyD said:


> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow! What a steal! Sweet!


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Yup I'm pretty stoked with it.. Now I get the fun of trying to find a comfortable riding position lol

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Dreamt that it was stolen...


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Took the bb7s off my 29er, and tore them apart. It's probably my least favorite maintenance, because it means taking a setup that is working and is quiet, and possibly ending up with the opposite. But my rear brake always takes a beating over the winter - last year I had to replace the pistons because somehow they'd gotten really corroded and pitted. This year there was some buildup, but nothing too bad. Replaced pads, cleaned and greased everything, put them back on, and adjusted everything, and it _seems_ quiet but we'll see how it goes.

Also swapped the pedals on my hardtail.

At the end of the winter I needed new pedals, so I got some fancy, plastic flats that I figured might be good for cold weather. After 2 rides my back and shoulders killing me, and I eventually realized it was because the pedals were concave, so it's almost like riding on a spindle instead of a nice big platform. The fit of my dropbar 29er is marginal enough to begin with, and the change was enough to throw things all out of whack.

So I swapped the plastic pedals to my hardtail, which doesn't have any weird fit compromises, and have been riding it without any pain. But in the last couple of weeks I've almost endoed 4 times. I thought it was because I was out of practice riding on dirt, but yesterday I realized it's because I'm balancing on a spindle, and just don't have the control I'm expecting.

So I'm really disappointed in the nukeproof electron. Every other flat pedal on the market is concave, so I don't know why they thought they should make one that's convex. And I'm surprised it gets so many positive reviews, because its design is just awkward. I'll probably give it one more shot next winter, and if that doesn't work I'll probably strip it for parts.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Made it trailworthy again, as trails are opening and the new trail bike doesn't arrive for a few weeks yet.


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## digitalayon (Jul 31, 2007)

I washed the bike clean. Looks almost new if not for some massive chain suck scratches.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Swapped the Tectonic pads for thin line salmon/black pads. Almost no front brake squealing now. Second ride with the new wheels and I'm very happy. Much snappier going uphill, and I can't wait to wear out my tires and replace them with some Schwalbe tubeless road tires.

If someone wants to speed along the process and get a pair of used 700x28 ultra gatorskins out of it (make an offer [see the trade thread!]) I'm more than game.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Repacked the hubs on my fixie. I'm way behind with my spring maintenance - normally I like to set up on the balcony and start tearing things apart, but today was really the first day that it was nice enough to do that. Still have to tackle my 29er at some point.


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## digitalayon (Jul 31, 2007)

new tubes and tires


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

mtbxplorer said:


> Made it trailworthy again, as trails are opening and the new trail bike doesn't arrive for a few weeks yet.


Oooooh what did you get what did you get??


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## p08757 (Mar 15, 2012)

Added lights Front/Rear and a frame mounted tire pump. All set now.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Picked up a 2013 Easton EC70 flat bar to replace the low rise. It's only 610mm wide which feels nice. Forced for to have to shortens my cables and housing though. So I used a spare set of Jagwire Ripcord housings and cables. Haven't done the shift cable yet. First not sure how as I ditched gears all together 5 years ago. I'm probably going to get matching ripcord brake and shift pro kits and go from there.



I also picked up a set of Axion Seymour panniers for $50 and free shipping off Amazon. So far I'm quite pleased with them.


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

My RD has been shifting like crap for a while. A few weeks ago I put it on the stand and tried adjusting it, didn't get much better. I was thinking of going SS for a little while while I gave my drivetrain a good disassembling and cleaning. Yesterday on my ride home I gave the in-line barrel adjuster 1/2 a turn and it's shifting 10x better. Go figure. Guess I saved myself a lot of work.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

All for the singlespeed today. Greased the seatpost in hopes of curing the clicking, aired the tires up, swapped out the front skewer, leveled the saddle, lubed the chain. Oh, and I adjusted my rear derail......haha no I didn't, just kidding.


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## SlowJoeCrow (Mar 16, 2009)

I got new shoes since after 6 years of regular service my Pearl Izumi X-Alp Enduros were falling apart. I scored a pair of X-Alp Enduro III shoes from the PI outlet for $90 and found a pair of new Crank Brothers cleats in the parts box so my commute is more comfortable.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Replaced my nice old Suntour toeclip pedals with some new Shimano platform SPDs for better commuting; put the cleats on my new commuter shoes; installed new Timbuk2 saddle tool bag with a couple new little tools in it, put my old Zefal frame pump on there as I did not have a pump last time I flatted, (forgot that day to grab my mountain bike's pump); checked out the new planet bike fenders a buddy gave me to see when and if I want to install them, and checked out the new old bar I grabbed from the bike co-op in boise. that bar should do the job I want by bringing my hands just a little further back when I am sitting up, and increase the rise just a little more. If I don't like it, I will go back to the bar you see on there.

Soon, fenders, front rack, (need a hole popped in my fork for those), and that bar. Also will fit lighting on the list.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I have those same fenders. Took em off because I just can't do fenders on that bike.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

TenSpeed said:


> I have those same fenders. Took em off because I just can't do fenders on that bike.


Which bike do you mean? I am torn too. I don't really need fenders often, and certainly not Eugene, OR, or Seattle, WA rains every day fenders. A buddy gave them to me for free (I gave him micro brew for free back). But they could be nice some days, and I might get used to a touring bike look. But then again, they could just get in the way sometimes too. I may trade these out and look for some of the smaller options. Or just use the rear and a smaller option up front.

In addition, if I go through with it and go 700c, that will play a role as well. Haven't fully decided on that though. I am even considering going just 69'er with a big wheel up front as I found one brake adapter from a buddy who will give that to me for free as well. The bike seems to handle and roll pretty well like that.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Sorry, I meant on my bike. I can't do fenders on the bike that I got them for. I am vain and to be honest, I hate the way they look on my bike, so I yanked em.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

TenSpeed said:


> Sorry, I meant on my bike. I can't do fenders on the bike that I got them for. I am vain and to be honest, I hate the way they look on my bike, so I yanked em.


I get that and struggle with it myself on this bike. I may or may not put the fenders on. I, after that last post, just bought on ebay a 135mm OLD hub rear 700c, so I am going to go ahead and try 700c wheels too so will not deal with the fenders until I get that figured out.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Swapped out a RK 29x2.2 for a Schwalbe Big Apple 29x2.35 tubeless on the rear of the bike.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

Continued the bad rear shifting epic....

So thought the jockey wheels were wore out...yup replaced with a less worn pair Helped a bit...

Thought the RD was a little plugged up with salt so I took it off....acting brand new..

Checked the RD cable...yup really sluggish and fouled (been on the bike 5 years??).

So put the RD back on....and damn if the B screw got in my way and i stripped the RD threads...

So I change the RD hanger to my spare (5 plus years old)....

But cause I wore out the dropouts on the chain stay...and fixed that by attaching a washer that I screwed and glued in the right place...then filed to the correct shape to align the wheel....that has to come off..

So I get the screw out no probs and one bang with a chisel and the washer comes off...

takes 10 minute to scrap the glue out of the RD bolt and it comes off...

Low and behold it also all goes back together....

Wheel is aligned etc....just went and got my new jockey wheels and shifting is damn near brand new....maybe just a couple of tweaks left to go.

And surprise no more grinding sounds from the RD.


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

I've never used one chain long enough before it broke to need to replace it (guess my legs are just too strong!). My friend pointed out the other day that I should probably check my commuter's. It was very stretched. The "1.0" side of the Park Tools chain checker fit without a problem. Oops. My cassette and chainrings look okay to me. What do you think:

Edit: The chainring looks very slightly sharktoothey.















.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

^^Looks can be deceiving. You'll know as soon as you put the new chain on. Not sure about the breaking chains thing. I've only broken 1-2 in maybe 30,000 lifetime miles. I've stretched plenty beyond the 1.0 limit. Replaced a lot of cassettes because of it to.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

My checker doesn't to go 1.0...it's .5 on one side and .75 on the other. I've had a couple in the 1.0 range though I'd bet.... 

However (knock on wood) I have never, ever, broken a chain. Even going back to the late 80's BMX days. Been carrying a spare master link since the things were invented, and I've only ever used them on friends bikes.


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

Wow, can't believe you guys haven't broken more chains. To be honest I've only broken two, but that's in no more than 10k miles. For the first few years I rode I couldn't manage to keep a bike long enough to stretch a chain. My CC is the only one I've put more than 2k miles on. I think it's close to 3500 now and IIRC this chain was on my road bike for a bit. Anyway, I work across the street from REI so I picked up a SRAM 1051 at lunchtime. If my cassette or chainrings are shot, I will probably get an 11-36 cassette, 42T chainring and go 1x10. Been thinking about it for a while now.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Straz85 said:


> If my cassette or chainrings are shot, I will probably get an 11-36 cassette, 42T chainring and go 1x10. Been thinking about it for a while now.


Do it!! I went 1x10 with a Wolftooth 42 and narrow/wide on the trail bike and it's awesome. I have had a new chain skip on a cassette I thought wasn't sharktoothed after only about 2k miles on the chain I was replacing...I'd be surprised if you couldn't use this to justify the 1x10 upgrade :lol:


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

I had my 10 speed chain causing ghost shifting when I pulled the snap link apart just a little bit. It would shift up and back. I could not find the cause as the link was only a little wider than it should be. Then I pulled it on a hard launch enough to jam in the rear cage. "Well there's your problem!" Called my DW.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Roholff makes an [expensive] tool called the HG/IG Check to measure cassette wear. It's pretty foolproof as far as telling whether or not a chain will skip on a used cassette. I've never encountered a case where it's been wrong. They haven't updated it for 10/11 speed, but it still works decently on 10 speed.

You'd be surprised what looks okay really isn't.


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

What symptoms can I expect to see if the cassette and/or chainrings are no good?


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Skipping under load, or, if shifting the front, chain suck. That is, the chain doesn't release cleanly from the chainring when shifting. Usually happens with chainrings smaller than 30-32.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Things I did:
1. Found my old seatpost rack and installed that with my Lezyne bag (looking at other options)
2. Installed my Revelate bag.
3. Swapped my seat to one that has a blinky light built in
4. Ate tacos.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Received the second of two 26" to 700C brake adapters. I now have one Mavic and one xtracyle. Don't match but one was free, so there you go. Now I just need the wheels to show up and I can do the conversion and see how it goes!


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## 603butters (May 16, 2014)

Finally mounted my 26 1.5 slicks to my new old schwinn and went for a spin. In my steal toe boots with my twenty pound pup on my back I managed to average 16mph for one hour. Shifters need some adjusting as they were slipping a lot but im pretty happy so far.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Added a IBERA IB-RA5 rack, much nicer then a seatpost rack.


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

Today?

I rode it to our new office at work. Old office was a ~6 mile commute.

New one is 30 miles. whew.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

Swapped stems on my "new" to me commuter for a lower, slightly more aggresive riding position. It's a threaded steerer and the old stem was sticking a bit after loosening the wedge bolt. I figured a little brute force and a twist would get it moving. It let loose and the handlebar swung around and smacked me square in the face! Didn't see that coming.


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## digitalayon (Jul 31, 2007)

new shifters, handle bars, grips, and barends


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

603butters said:


> Finally mounted my 26 1.5 slicks to my new old schwinn and went for a spin. In my steal toe boots with my twenty pound pup on my back I managed to average 16mph for one hour. Shifters need some adjusting as they were slipping a lot but im pretty happy so far.


I don't know how we haven't seen a pic of your backpack pup yet!


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I really need to yank the cassette and chain for a good long soak in some degreaser while the rest of the bike gets a deep clean and tuning. My jockey wheels on the rear derailleur have some serious shark tooth going on, so there's another thing to add to the list. Derailleur could stand to be torn down and cleaned, while the right shifter needs to be flooded with a foaming cleanser followed by some Tri-Flow to combat the ever dreaded Ultegra sticky shifter syndrome. 

But the only thing I'll do to my commuter this weekend is ride it.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Swapped the rear wheel, and am now running fixed gear. I really like it this time around, except I cannot seem to figure out how to stop. I was told to pedal backwards. I try to do that, and the thing almost throws me off the bike. I can manage to slow myself down, but I cannot do an emergency stop at all. Think that I am going to ride to work on Monday on this bike, as there should be little to no commuter traffic for either ride.


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## WarbyD (Jan 14, 2014)

Tidied up the cockpit, which had been bugging me because it was so "busy," by:
Removing the GoPro knockoff I had been using. Quality wasn't good enough in low light to be of any use anyway so it's just taking up space
Relocating bell to side of the hood instead of the flat
Relocating one of my lights to the side of the stem
Moving my Quad Lock phone mount onto the bar from the stem

All in all it looks much neater now.. This may seem like nothing but it had been really annoying the heck out of me haha.

I also added a second layer of cork tape to alleviate a bit of pain I've had in my hands.. Feels plush! Looking forward to seeing how it rides. 

Topped off with a wipe down n lube and I'm ready to roll for the morning 

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Took a spin up to the local store for some ice cream last night. Gave the fixed gear attempt one more shot. I really like it, except for the stopping. I just cannot seem to get it down, and that just won't work for me. Took this shot with my Moto X at just after 10PM I believe. The lighting at the store makes it look like daylight.










BigShot Dublin in night mode - Niterider Lumina 350 front and Serfas Thunderbolt rear
Fyxation track grips
KORE stem
Easton EC70 carbon fiber fork
Aerospoke in matte black Plasti-Dip
KORE front skewer
Specialized Armadillo front tire
Shimano M520 pedals
Specialized Avatar saddle
Stock 46:16 flip flop fixed gear wheel/tire

The fixed gear wheel came off today as did the lame stickers, and the coaster brake wheel went back on for the ride today. I think that I set it up exactly perfect which I have not been able to do quite yet. Good chain tension, not too loose, not too tight. Wheel is centered in the drop outs, and the coaster brake is nice and tight. I have an appointment on Wednesday am to get a new BB and cranks installed.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Sorry to hear that! I've yet to ride a fixed for more than a brief instance, so I still really want to try one out long term. last time I tried I almost ended up in a fountain. So I understand you.

But, they're so coooooool.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

I've had my fixie for about 6 months now, and I still wouldn't think of taking the brakes off. On a typical commute I probably won't touch them, but it's sure nice to have them as a fallback.

On the other hand, I've realized that having a fixie has really changed the way I ride offroad. There are plenty of twisty trails that I used to brake through - I wasn't dragging my brakes like a newb, but I'd tap the brakes going into turns or whatever. Now that I've ridden fixed I'm much more likely to just let the bike go. I wasn't expecting that to happen, but it's definitely a noticeable change.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Origin8 ProPulsion crank and Shimano BB installed at my buddies shop. Made a huge difference in the ride and how smooth the cranks turn. Original cranks and BB are absolute garbage. Deciding to swap back to the freewheel and roll a front brake. I took his fixed gear out just around the lot and he has a Campy front brake, and that really helped with slowing down and stopping. In all the times that I have tried the fixed, I have never installed the front brake or used it. I am thinking a Shimano 105 should do the trick nicely. All of this is due to the fact that the coaster brake hub is loose, and even if I tighten it, the hub will get loose again, apparently a quality of coaster brakes. 

I sprayed the front wheel in orange Plasti-Dip yesterday, and peeled it today when I got home. Turned out like garbage, and I will need the brake track anyway so it was time remove it.


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## mort1369 (Oct 12, 2013)

Ordered a new tire and tube for the rear of the Raleigh. Also installed a Biopace 48T chainring (just now found out the bike has two Sugino Cylcoid chainings on it).


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

OK!!! This is why I hate brakes. Swapped wheels back to the fixed gear, and added the front brake that came with the bike. I got it dialed in about as much as I can, and it rubs outside the braking surface onto the Aerospoke. I have the pads up high as they will go, and looking at it, looks all good. Nope. They rub when the brake is applied. This is essentially ruining the finish of my wheel. Going to go to the other local shop tomorrow and see what they have as far as maybe different pads or a different brake that is more adjustable for the bike. My buddies shop is closed on Sunday (NOT SURE WHY IN THE SUMMER WHEN PEOPLE WANT TO BIKE!) so the other shop it is. Want this squared away by Monday. My other option is the wheel that came with the bike, but it will not fit in the fork, as it is bolt on not QR.

I am hoping that it is just the POS brake that came with the bike, and I can get something worked out to where I ride fixed, but have some assistance with emergency braking with the front brake.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Yanked the front brake, and installed the rear brake to see if that works. It works. Hell, it works better than the front did, with what seems like more stopping power. Caliper is jacked up, so I will try to make it as even as possible. Found some decent stuff online for a rear replacement that won't brake the bank. You see what I did there?

I will be respraying my front wheel now with matte black Plasti-Dip tomorrow.


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## Cayenne_Pepa (Dec 18, 2007)

*Saved This From Scapyard....*

2001 Cannondale Bad Boy Ultra, found at the bottom of a pile of bikes at an Automotive boneyard. After 2 hours of de-tangling...it was MINE for the price of $30! Everything was straight. The 70mm Headshok fork was rusted completely shut: 

I applied all my old 26er race parts, re-sprayed the entire frame, built-up a 1500g, 700c wheelset, rebuilt the fork.... and this is the result - a 19-pound commuter ROCKET, with only 10% carbon fiber content(shifters, derailleur, pedals):

I went WAY over budget, on this baby. But now I use TWO gigantic U-locks!!!


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Severe approval, did you fix the fork?


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

That bad boy turned out really nice. I think I remember you posting it back when you first rescued it?

Today I rewrapped my bars. The basic cork tape I had was already getting worn, and had some tears around the hooks. When I was at the shop this week buying a replacement light I figured I might at well get some tape too. Briefly debated being fancy and getting white, but realized that this is a mountain bike and a winter bike and that that would be silly. So went with something from fizik in black. I did a much better job at the barends this time, and wrapped with lots of overlap so that I didn't even have to cut it. This tape looks a lot better than the old stuff, and hopefully it will last better too.


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## Cayenne_Pepa (Dec 18, 2007)

Agwan said:


> Severe approval, did you fix the fork?


Oh yes. I had it completely rebuilt, with all new seals and needle bearings.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

newfangled - I will send you my bars to wrap!!


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Nice build on that old bad boy

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Why hadnt i thought of this sooner. On the pompino i replaced the small cage pedals with well go dh pedals. So much more comfortable. Left the house yesterday with the intention of checking out a local flea market and ended up riding like 5 hours/25 miles.


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## fixin40 (Sep 18, 2013)

Just bought and installed some big apple 26x2.35, wow!, they roll like butter, fast and smooth. I am a convert! Yea!


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## p08757 (Mar 15, 2012)

Since all of the good single track is overgrown where I ride now, I’m converting my Surly KM into commuter mode. Last night I put the Big Apples on, and attempted to swap free wheel but found I didn’t have the correct tool. I ordered the correct tool and I should have it by this Friday.

The KM will be converted back into a trail bike this fall/winter.


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## nepbug (Sep 3, 2004)

Ahem, well first post in a long, long while...

Decided to take the Roadie for the commute today, but I found this:









Luckily I had a replacement waiting in the garage for the last 6 years (whoops forgot about that for a while), this seemed like a good time to install it. Shortly thereafter I was off riding again and 110 grams lighter!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Swapped a flat bar on my fixie, and yanked the bullhorns. I need to wrap them with some thick bar tape for comfort. The track grips were simply not working with as much as I have been riding. Love the way the look but the function is more important than the form and my hands are starting to hurt even with padded gloves. Stopping at the shop today to see what they have on my way to work. 

I had purchased a nice 25.4 KORE mtb flat bar on eBay, and got some of the black OURY lock on grips, and I think I tried the bar once and hated how it looked. Well, today they will get their due use. Had to fiddle with an insert to make the brake lever work, which I am guessing is spaced for bar tape.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Made significant progress on my 26" to 700C conversion day before yesterday: http://forums.mtbr.com/commuting/my...-89-fisher-paragon-908426-2.html#post11253023


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Cleaned up my TriCross in hopes of a sale in a little bit here. I just don't ride it enough to keep it. Money will go towards a new light, and possibly a new track frame for my fixie, or at least towards a build. Very well might space this one out, and buy it piece by piece so I get exactly what I want. Not sure that I have the patience for that though.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Goodbye friend. You will be missed. I hope that you get ridden by your new owner.










On a side note, on the way home from selling it, I stopped at the shop by where I live, and picked up a NiteRider Lumina 700. That will make its home on the bar, and the 350 will make its way onto my helmet. About half of my commute home is in dark neighborhoods or the MUP which is pitch black. Lots of things that like to jump out at you, and I would like to see them before I hit them. Didn't get a chance to wrap my bullhorns today, and probably won't tomorrow either. Hopefully Friday?


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

nepbug said:


> Ahem, well first post in a long, long while...
> 
> Luckily I had a replacement waiting in the garage for the last 6 years (whoops forgot about that for a while), this seemed like a good time to install it. Shortly thereafter I was off riding again and 110 grams lighter!


Welcome back, looking good!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Picked out a new one. 

Now to see if it is in stock, or if I have to order it. Stay tuned.


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## Call_me_Tom (May 26, 2008)

Installed an SLX drivetrain, Avid 5 brakes, Kenda tires & Thompson seatpost clamp.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Oops - double post


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

New bike? Ordered. :yesnod:

Very very very excited about this bike. Didn't think that it was going to happen, but the owner of the shop took some time with me, made a few calls, and in the end, he made it happen. They earned a customer with their outstanding service.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Lots of stuff yesterday. Got home too late to post last night.










-installed Mavic v-brake adapter to the front, along with moving V-brakes, and putting new pads on.
-installed newer rear cyclocross wheel I got from AlexCuse, to match the front which was already on there, installed used but good Ritchey Cyclocross tire to match Conti Cyclocross front tire. I have a second set of road wheels that will end up with some sort of touring slick on them for most commute days.
-installed new cassette, and new chain
-New cable and housing. Thing shifts nice now! some minor adjustment still to do but much better. 
-Installed wider bar with more sweep, which required longer cable and housing. I like the width and the fore/aft position, but wonder if it is too sweepy to get there. This may change with a shorter stem and the former bar, but will ride a while this way to see. 
-re-installed front Redline light.










Additional details and discussion here if interested. https://forums.mtbr.com/commuting/m...-89-fisher-paragon-908426-2.html#post11265347


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ that's looking a lot different than when you started.

Took off the Midge bar
IMG_20140613_220949.365 by inthreedimensions, on Flickr

And put on a Woodchipper
IMAG0468 by inthreedimensions, on Flickr

One ride so far, and already rewrapped the bars to move the levers down to where they are in the picture. And I'm sure I'll rewrap at least once more. And I'm sure I'll spend weeks playing with the angle - keep it flatish the way I liked the Midge, or the more "standard" 25deg+ like everyone else uses?

The Woodchipper is supposed to have a little less reach than the Midge, and I'm not sure that I really felt that? But the extra long drop extensions are _fantastic_ for singlespeed climbing. I didn't even realize what I was missing with the Midge, but the Woodchipper felt great.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

^^^. Looks cool. I am surprising myself with thoughts of trying a much shorter and higher rise stem and some sort or multi position bar such as those. Your bike is looking great!


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Well, my experience with the dropbar conversion has been pretty tricky - a bit too much reach and a bit too low, even with a 40deg stem. I liked it enough to try out a second bar, but this will still probably be the least comfortable/most extreme of my 3 bikes.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

newfangled said:


> Well, my experience with the dropbar conversion has been pretty tricky - a bit too much reach and a bit too low, even with a 40deg stem. I liked it enough to try out a second bar, but this will still probably be the least comfortable/most extreme of my 3 bikes.


Yeah that is not going to work for me. I will continue down the path I am on for a while before embarking in yet a different direction. The path/build has been fun so far though.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Bar swap back to the bullhorns, and after removing the Fyxation track grips (which I love but don't have enough padding), installed this:










Second time wrapping bars, and I did a hell of a job.....except for where the plugs go. I didn't do that correctly, and it pisses me off. It is good enough for the time being. I don't know how long you have to undo what you have done once the backing has been peeled, so I guess it will stay. I am very happy with the actual wrapping of the bars. The gel that you lay down gives it a really nice plush feel which I hope will help with hand comfort on my commute. Ended up being able to reuse the Fyxation bolt in bar plugs so I was pretty happy about that. The extra touch they give finishes the bike off.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I don't think there's a timelimit on rewrapping. I rewrapped some cork tape half a dozen times over 9 months, and I just moved my month-old fizik tape from one bar to another. If its been there for years it might be a problem, but anything shortterm you just have to be a little careful when unwrapping.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Thanks for the information, may give it a rewrap tomorrow if I get the chance. Will be done before the end of the week for sure.


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## WiTrailRunner (Mar 1, 2011)

So on Saturday morning I decided to do an easy little project of swapping my tires out for the new Gatorskins that I ordered. Old tires come off, no problem. Get the Gatorskins mounted on one side of the rim, no problem. Then came trying to get those damn tires on the other side of the rim. I pinched, I squeezed, I used my palms, I swore at them. I googled for solutions and found others with the same issue. Nothing worked. I just couldn't get those last few inches on. Finally after my fingers were raw, I gave up and admitted defeat and took them to the LBS. Thankfully my LBS is awesome and they helped me at no charge, but I hate not being able to do something so simple myself. Now I can never get a flat, because I won't be able to get my damn tires back on myself. (Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know they'll supposedly stretch over time.)

Anyway, here she is with her new tires. (And new saddle bag.)


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

WiTrailRunner said:


> So on Saturday morning I decided to do an easy little project of swapping my tires out for the new Gatorskins that I ordered. Old tires come off, no problem. Get the Gatorskins mounted on one side of the rim, no problem. Then came trying to get those damn tires on the other side of the rim. I pinched, I squeezed, I used my palms, I swore at them. I googled for solutions and found others with the same issue. Nothing worked. I just couldn't get those last few inches on. Finally after my fingers were raw, I gave up and admitted defeat and took them to the LBS. Thankfully my LBS is awesome and they helped me at no charge, but I hate not being able to do something so simple myself. Now I can never get a flat, because I won't be able to get my damn tires back on myself. (Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know they'll supposedly stretch over time.)
> 
> Anyway, here she is with her new tires. (And new saddle bag.)


New tires can be a pain. Some are much more difficult than others. You just have to get those tire levers in there and really use some muscle. I've actually broken a couple Park Tools tire levers, but usually it's okay.

I love the look of your bike. The white handlebars/hoods look great with the blue frame.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Not technically bike-related, but the zipper on my pannier has started acting up - it's sticking, and leaving an unzipped zipper behind it. It's a curved section of zipper, which always seem to develop problems eventually.

Maybe everyone else knows this too, but my trick for fixing a faulty zipper (rather than tossing the pannier) is to grab a pair of pliers, and squish down on the head of the zipper. The metal can be brittle so you don't want to go crazy, but just compress the trailing edge a bit. I've done it a few times, and it seems to work like a charm.


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## WiTrailRunner (Mar 1, 2011)

Straz85 said:


> New tires can be a pain. Some are much more difficult than others. You just have to get those tire levers in there and really use some muscle. I've actually broken a couple Park Tools tire levers, but usually it's okay.
> 
> I love the look of your bike. The white handlebars/hoods look great with the blue frame.


Thank you!  The bike shop actually had it set up with black tape/hoods, but they switched it out for me.

And I tried tire levers too. I'm a small woman, so I'm probably just lacking in the muscle department in my arms.


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## Sanath (Jul 20, 2012)

Have you tried a speed lever? I have one, and I think it makes the process marginally easier. Easier to put your muscles into it anyways.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

WiTrailRunner - beautiful bike!! Love the color combo, especially the tape/hoods. Very sharp looking.


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

WiTrailRunner said:


> Thank you!  The bike shop actually had it set up with black tape/hoods, but they switched it out for me.
> 
> And I tried tire levers too. I'm a small woman, so I'm probably just lacking in the muscle department in my arms.


Time to start weight lifting!


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## WiTrailRunner (Mar 1, 2011)

Thanks for the tip on the speed lever - maybe I'll pick one up! And thanks, TenSpeed! It's new, so it's all exciting now.

And I don't have time to lift weights...too busy riding my bike.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I've spent the last several days messing with this Cateye Commuter wireless computer. It keeps giving false readings, and I'm starting to think the fender has something to do with it.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Birthday just passed and I treated myself to a Brooks B17 saddle! I also bought some Crank Brothers 5050 3 interbike editions in mint green and some SKS Longboard fenders. I will get a better picture when the sun goes down more.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Nice ride, WiTrail, it looks great. I recall you noticed we had the same saddle, and I see we have the same seatpack as well, and a pretty uncommon model. Mine is not as shiny, but has held up well. I got these shop tire levers for extra leverage, 8" metal, great for home use. Park Tool Co. » TL-5 : Heavy Duty Steel Tire Lever Set : Tube & Tire

Another zipper tip from my gram is to run a bar of soap along the teeth for easy sliding. Now that I say that, it would be fun to add some bubble blowing stuff or foamy dishsoap to the bike in a good rain.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Changed out the battery in my speed sensor, adjusted my front fender, and relocated my computer to the bars instead of the stem. For some reason, it's only reading a fraction of the time, which messes with the goals I set for myself. Kinda hard to hold 21 mph on a 1 mile stretch if your comp is reading 0.0...

Been goofing with the saddle quite a bit. I find the Romin to be extremely comfortable, but it's quite picky. Absolutely no "close enough", and anything out of line causes some chaffing. Nothing too bad, but it doesn't take much to make you pay attention. 

I'm slowly gearing up to replace my chainrings, cassette, chain, and 11t derailleur pulleys. I've been looking in to oval or asymmetric chainrings, and it seems that there's quite a fuss over them. 

Need to get myself a chain catcher, too. That mess is about to drive me out of my mind.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> Been goofing with the saddle quite a bit. I find the Romin to be extremely comfortable, but it's quite picky. Absolutely no "close enough", and anything out of line causes some chaffing. Nothing too bad, but it doesn't take much to make you pay attention.


Not sure if you've got a smartphone, but I've become addicted to using a level app when I'm messing around with saddle angle.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

newfangled said:


> Not sure if you've got a smartphone, but I've become addicted to using a level app when I'm messing around with saddle angle.


Yup, that's what I've been doing. The most difficult thing is the "middle third". Right now I'm finding it to be just right at -3*. I don't notice a difference while on the hoods, but when I lean into the drops, it's just enough tilt to alleviate any pressure.


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

Cleaned and regreased my BB bearings, they were way overdue. I also wiped down my frame and adjusted my derailleurs. Later this week I'll be rebuilding my hubs, also overdue. I've never done it myself before, so it should be a learning experience.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Installed stainless steel washers (just hanging on the axle right now) to take up a few mil of space between the 130 hub on this wheel and the 136 dropouts. Seems to work fine for now.

And put Clement X'Plor USH Tires on these cross wheels. Initial ride feels awesome and that I will really like these tires!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Today is new bike day, sort of. Bike is done, and in my apartment currently. Stopped off at my buddies shop to pick up a front brake for it. I got this, right? Got home. Yeah, I don't know what I am doing. Gonna ride it over to the shop first thing in the morning with the rear brake only, and hope that there are no issues with stopping. I will gladly pay for the labor to get the brake set up perfectly.

Will post pictures once it is done.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

So last week I replaced the midge dirtdrops on my ss 29er with woodchipper dirtdrops. And after a week on the woodchippers I'm pretty happy because they make that long toptube feel just a little bit shorter.

But that left me with an unused midge bar, so yesterday I swapped it onto my fixed 26er. I'd had a mary bar on there since I broke my bullmoose last winter, and the mary was very comfy but honestly a little boring. So the midge is set up superlow, so I'll be on the hoods most of the time instead of the drops. Had my first ride with it this morning, and it was pretty fun.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

newfangled said:


> ^ that's looking a lot different than when you started.
> 
> Took off the Midge bar
> IMG_20140613_220949.365 by inthreedimensions, on Flickr
> ...


Guitar Ted has an extensive article on his site about setting up dirt drop bars. 
Guitar Ted Productions: Drop Bar For Mountain Biking: Part I


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ oh yeah. I've spent countless hours on his site, and it's been invaluable for setting up the 29er. 

The 26er will always be too low to spend much time in the drops though, so for it I'll have to stick with the hoods. I'd been thinking about putting drops on the 26er for awhile though, and had figured I would find some old ones at the co-op. But since I had the midge lying around I figured why not?


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

I rode it in raíny weather. Once home, I flushed most of the grit and stuff off with a few liters of water.


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## Tim_Ky (Jun 16, 2014)

New sora front derailleur to replace the sunrace the shop installed last week. The sunrace fd wasnt shifting reliably. At the time it was all they had in stock and I wanted to ride!


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

Added some full coverage fenders and a rear rack this weekend. Fenders were a pain to install but I love them now. Still needs a decent saddle and I'm thinking about getting some drop bars with bar end shifters.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I have made a gross error in measurements. My bullhorn bar is a 25.4 bar, but with a 26 clamp. I am currently using a 25.4 stem. I don't know what I was thinking, but put it on anyway, knowing that it didn't fit, and it never crossed my mind that it was the wrong size. Hit up my buddies bike shop and picked up a 90mm 26 17 degree rise Dimension stem. Going to put that on as soon as I am done with lunch here. I feel really dumb right now.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I think that's generally considered not too much of a problem. The other way 'round is the real worry.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Rainy day, and the first real ride on the newly dropbarred fixie 26er:



__
https://flic.kr/p/nPspsh



__
https://flic.kr/p/nPsa2W



__
https://flic.kr/p/o6Dqtv


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## mort1369 (Oct 12, 2013)

Put a Continental Gatorskin on the front of the Raleigh (with the original thorn-proof tube), so now at least both tires match.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Dimension 90mm, 26 clamp, 17 degree rise stem installed along with a new headset spacer for the Felt to rectify a previous miscalculation. The only branding on the stem is the double D in grey that almost matches the color of the bike. Test rode it already, and am really liking the new riding position. Previous stem was 110mm, 25.4, and 15 degree. I felt a little stretched out on it, but it worked. This will replace that nicely.

Found that I have a flat on the BigShot on the rear tire. Finished off installing the Felt stem/bars on it with a new headset spacer. Lazy enough that I didn't swap the tube/tire out to my spare Specialized Armadillo that I have. Looking to just get a new frame and swap everything over.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Swapped out the stock saddle for my Specialized Avatar. Should be a much more comfortable ride with that on there. Swapped the black Aerospoke on to the Felt, for now. I peeled the Plasti-Dip off so that I could use the brake track for the front brake. Between the gloss black of the wheel, and the fact that it now looks like a Police bike, I am not sure how long that will stay on there. Definitely heavier than the stock wheel, which I am also not crazy about.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Wow, another chain bites the dust! It seems like yesterday, but it was 3 months ago. Check yer chains, commuters!


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Did a bunch of derailleur and brake cable adjustments, lube, etc. Unfortunately, my venerable 7 speed Deore XT-II shifter seems to be wonky and the results, though improved, are not all the way where I want them. I may have to find a new shifter. Also, the old short cage XT rear derailleur is not giving me as much chain tension as I want in some settings. I can avoid most of the issues there by not going to those combinations, but I will want this to be rock solid at some point.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ what's wrong with the shifters? I ask, because with older shifters the grease often turns to earwax, and they stop engaging properly.

If that's the problem - they won't go the full range, or they're missing shifts - try taking off the cover and absolutely drowning them in wd40. Cycle them a few times, let them sit for a few hours, cycle them some more, and then drown them again.

If that gets them working again, then you can give them a final flush with simplygreen, and then either goop them up with new grease or soak them with a heavyish oil. I've seen plenty of shifters that people were ready to toss that just needed the old gunk cleared out.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

^^^

That is what is happening. Shifts don't seem precise, or skip. Tough to go full range. We did one round of taking them apart and lubricating, but used tri-flow. Did not do the clean out with WD40 or anything. And only one round, and did not wait the few hours and re-do. I will try what you suggest to see if they can be revived. The front derailleur shifter is friction, of course, so is not missing shifts, but is just really stiff. Again, a good de-gooping maybe will help that. 

The interesting thing is that the symptoms were not there nearly as much (on the rear shifter at least) with the old drive train on my old 26 inch wheels, or so I was thinking. Maybe I was just thinking the chain and rear cassette was old and needed to be replaced so had low expectations. 

the new SRAM cassette (that I put on along with a new SRAM chain) goes up to a 32 tooth low gear, so is a larger ring than the 28 that used to be on there. Not sure if that is contributing. got the rear hanger straightened out though and it does adjust out to shifting pretty smoothly, but then the shifts deteriorate, though the adjustments have not moved, so it seemed like something wonky was going on with the indexing in the shifter. Can't hurt to clean it out anyway.

Also, we did get the brakes running really well, and finally cut and put ends on all the cables. The wheels I got from AlexCuse are very straight and the hubs are running beautifully. Spacing with the washers (on on each side) works just fine too. They are not secured and are just hanging there, but work just fine.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Getting the rig ready for a bicycle tour day. I found a friend who had a bunch of pannier stuff that he was getting rid of including a Blackburn low rider front rack and a couple few different panniers that I could add to what I was already using. Those purple ones on the front are actually rears and are too large for this front rack as I found out. I have a couple of other options including the front set that goes with those purple rears along with some smaller rears that I think that I will use since I want to carry some more of my kids' extra clothes on this trip.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

sunvalleylaw said:


> Getting the rig ready for a bicycle to her day. I found a friend you had a bunch of pannier stuff that he was getting rid of including a Blackburn low rider front rack and a couple few different panniers that I could add to what I was already using. Those purple ones on the front are actually rears and are too large for this front rack as I found out. I have a couple of other options . . .


Road Touring version 2.0.







Getting ready for a San Juan islands tour with the family. I will be the primary mule. We will be carrying pretty much just clothing and personals as we will be staying at hostels. However that stuff will still add up as only my wife will also have panniers (rear only) and the kids will just have day packs.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ congrats on scoring all the touring stuff.

Did a full rewrap of my woodchipper and a partial rewrap of my midge to add some extra padding. The heals of my palms have been taking a beating, which I think is from riding the hoods of the midge. But I feel it on both bikes, so I figured I would make them both cushier. I added strips of cork to the drops of the woodchipper, and to the ramps of the midge, and then wrapped them up again. No matter how many times I do this, doing the ends and the endcaps sucks.


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## crazee horse (Sep 8, 2012)

I put an airzound 3 on my mtb commuter , people and cars will be giving me a wide birth in future !


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

newfangled said:


> ^ congrats on scoring all the touring stuff.
> 
> Did a full rewrap of my woodchipper and a partial rewrap of my midge to add some extra padding. The heals of my palms have been taking a beating, which I think is from riding the hoods of the midge. But I feel it on both bikes, so I figured I would make them both cushier. I added strips of cork to the drops of the woodchipper, and to the ramps of the midge, and then wrapped them up again. No matter how many times I do this, doing the ends and the endcaps sucks.


Thanks on the congrats. I feel very "Rivendell" with the bike set up this way.

Man, you must be getting pretty good at re-wrapping. I have never done it myself. One of those tasks that looks like it would be more effective to have someone who knows what they're doing do it for me.  I probably should learn, although I have only one bike with tape.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Wrapping isn't as bad as I thought it would be. Once you get the feel for it, not too bad. I have only wrapped my bars twice, with the first being a complete fail. This time around I did a pretty good job although I messed up the far ends that tuck into the bars which I ended up cutting off. Long story. It's a 3 footer for sure.


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

Finally got my commuter setup 1x10. I've been meaning to do it for a while now. My FD getting all messed up on my commute home last Wednesday was the final push I needed. It shifted great on the way in this morning, though I fear I should have gone with a larger chainring. I have a 39T with an 11-34 cassette, I wish I did 42T or 44T with an 11-36 cassette. I'll ride it like this for a little while and see how it goes.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Straz85 said:


> Finally got my commuter setup 1x10. I've been meaning to do it for a while now. My FD getting all messed up on my commute home last Wednesday was the final push I needed. It shifted great on the way in this morning, though I fear I should have gone with a larger chainring. I have a 39T with an 11-34 cassette, I wish I did 42T or 44T with an 11-36 cassette. I'll ride it like this for a little while and see how it goes.
> 
> View attachment 906405


Very nice. do report back. I keep looking for a "like" button on this forum for posts as they have on my guitar forum. I would have "liked" this post. I have not been able to give reputation for a while as it keeps telling me to spread it around before giving it to the people that I end up choosing.


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

New:

Sram Force brifters
Sram X9 Type 2 RD
Shimano CX70 FD
Shimano 34/50 105 cranks
11-36 XT cassette.
Bar tape


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

NateHawk's saddle was too wide for the road bike I wanted to put it on so it ended up on this bike, along with mack_turtle's pedals


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

jcaino said:


> New:
> 
> Sram Force brifters
> Sram X9 Type 2 RD
> ...


Nice bike! 34/50 chainrings with a 11-36 cassette is some serious range. You could climb Mt Everest with that! Out of curiosity, why use a CX FD with a 34/50? I would imagine a CX FD is designed for chainrings much more similarly sized, like a 36/46.


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

Thanks...i value gear range over a tigh ratio...and wanted to keep a similar range that i had with my 28/39/52 triple and 11-32 cassette.

As for the fd, it's designed for a 46-52 big ring, with a 16t capacity. I'm not aware of any double fd that has a larger capacity. It was the right price and fit my needs.

Overall shifting with this setup is fantastic.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ what flared bars are those? A midge? As a recent convert I'm always curious.


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

newfangled said:


> ^ what flared bars are those? A midge? As a recent convert I'm always curious.


Yea, on-one midge


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

I continued catching up on my overdue maintenance last night. I serviced my rear hub. First time I ever did it by myself, it was pretty simple.


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

jcaino said:


> Yea, on-one midge


How do the brifters feel with the flared bars?


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Spent some time over the weekend really cleaning it up. I did a long ride on Friday on some wet and grimey roads, so there was sand everywhere. Spent about an hour cleaning everything I could. My right pedal spindle isn't as free spinning as the left, and if feels as though my bottom bracket is a little gunked. I'll have to put those on the to do list.


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

AlexCuse said:


> How do the brifters feel with the flared bars?


I dig 'em. These replaced some very tired (~25k miles) tiagra brifters on another set of on-one midge bars


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

newfangled's dropbar odyssey - part eleventeen

No recent changes, but after about a week running this setup I've decided that I might have finally found dropbar conversion nirvana.

To recap: 

9 months using the midge on my 29er. I liked it a lot, but with the long toptube I always felt stretched out.
Switched to a woodchipper. It felt like an improvement, but the question was whether it would get me a setup I was truly happy with, or whether it would still only be "close" to perfect.
3 weeks of experimenting, and now when I get on the bike I'm genuinely surprised at how good it feels.
There's still room for more testing, but the woodchipper let me move the seat back a bit, and actually drop the stem a bit, and I think I've found a pretty good zone of comfiness.

Next up will be fine-tuning the midge that's now on my fixie.


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

Finally finished the final bit of maintenance my commuter needed. I rebuilt the front hub and gave the braking surfaces on my wheels a good cleaning. No more squealing from my brakes.


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## Tim_Ky (Jun 16, 2014)

newfangled said:


> newfangled's dropbar odyssey - part eleventeen
> 
> No recent changes, but after about a week running this setup I've decided that I might have finally found dropbar conversion nirvana.
> 
> ...


I've been wanting to try the woodchipper as well. Currently using the cowbell bar.


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## p08757 (Mar 15, 2012)

Having a new headset installed on the track bike, and ordered a new BB for it. I pick up the bike from the shop tomorrow and after I service the hubs, install the BB and Cranks the bike will be better than new.


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## In-Yo-Grill (Jul 19, 2011)

*Got these in today...*

Can't wait to have them installed.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

New parts day!! Rode down to my buddies shop for a few upgrades. Namely new threaded tubes and Continental Gatorskins. The tubes that came on the bike were non threaded, and the clicking sound that they made was just too much for me. A purchase totally unneeded, but I got them anyway. 700x23 Gatorskins as well, same size as the Vittoria Rubinos that came stock. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! The Vittoria's were fast and smooth, but not that great. The Gatorskins are faster, quieter and I swear that they eat up the bumps a little more. Very happy with that purchase. I went ahead and ordered a new Fyxation 25.4 flat rodeo bullhorn bar as well. Same price through them as it would be online, so why not support my lbs? That will be in on Friday, and my brand spanking new 25.4 Thomson Elite stem came yesterday. I need to pick out some bar wrap, and new plugs so I will order those myself, most likely from Fyxation. My current bar is a 25.4, but with a 26.0 clamp. I don't trust that with the stem, so it will be taken care of.

I went ahead today and rode my commute, at least from the bike shop to work, back to the shop, and then back home. The ride on the tires is amazing. If anyone is considering these for any bike, get them!!!!


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Finally repacked the hubs and headset on my 29er. It's my main winterbike, so I like to do it once a year, and it's supposed to be part of routine spring maintenance, but this year every time I'd thought about doing it I'd just decided to go for a ride instead.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

Replace the rear shock...the old one was completely worn out after some 45,000 km... even new seal kits wern't working.

Also noticed rim was starting to split at the valve stem (again)...Second rim to do it...

Filled in the channel that holds the spokes (tubeless rim) with gorilla foam. The drill out the bad metal...(corroded aluminum?)...then re foamed...then epoxied...

Looks like a good fix we will see.


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

In-Yo-Grill said:


> Can't wait to have them installed.


Hopefully you mean "Can't wait to install them".


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

The rear wheel of my spare (commuter) wheelset was spinning really rough. It was cheap and I wasn't sure what was in there. Cracked it open and found cartridge bearings. Used a pick and pulled the seals off, finding dry rusty stuff inside. Sprayed some degreaser in there a few times, rinsed, dried, re-greased, and put back together. It helped a lot for now.


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## In-Yo-Grill (Jul 19, 2011)

Straz85 said:


> Hopefully you mean "Can't wait to install them".


I freakn tried...Could not get them to seat. I worked on it for an hour and finally conceded. The guy at the bike shop told me it took him an hour to finally get them to take. They are ready today.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

mtbxplorer said:


> The rear wheel of my spare (commuter) wheelset was spinning really rough. It was cheap and I wasn't sure what was in there. Cracked it open and found cartridge bearings. Used a pick and pulled the seals off, finding dry rusty stuff inside. Sprayed some degreaser in there a few times, rinsed, dried, re-greased, and put back together. It helped a lot for now.


see if you can read the bearing number it be like 6801 or 608 something like that...the cartridge bearings can be purchased on line at Boca bearing....or if you have an industrial transmission supply house much cheaper there...

Real easy to pop in and out.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Bike shop called me yesterday, bullhorns that I ordered are not available. I hate to say that I went on Amazon and got the exact same bars, for cheaper. I like to support my local shop as much as I can, but sometimes they cannot beat the stuff online and are at the mercy of the availability of QBP. It looks like I got the last bar on there in a 42cm so I am pretty happy.


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## In-Yo-Grill (Jul 19, 2011)

Got my tires back today...Man they looks sweet. 

Can't wait to see what they feel like when I hit a straight away.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Added an Ibera frame bag for $12.99 shipped from Amazon. I have a Revelate Tangle Bag medium I just wanted something a little more everyday. The Tangle is a great bag but is not that great for my phone, wallet, and keys plus tools. This bag does a much better job with these items and fills the triangle much better.

The bag is the large with three zippers. The frame is a medium Inbred, I do not care about fitting a water bottle down in the triangle since I have two on my fork already.


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## Sanath (Jul 20, 2012)

In-Yo-Grill said:


> I freakn tried...Could not get them to seat. I worked on it for an hour and finally conceded. The guy at the bike shop told me it took him an hour to finally get them to take. They are ready today.


Isn't that going to be an issue if you get a flat?


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## In-Yo-Grill (Jul 19, 2011)

Sanath said:


> Isn't that going to be an issue if you get a flat?


They are set up tubeless with Stans sealant. Day two and they are still holding strong. Just in case I am carrying a spare tube if they decide to take a dump on me.

Since the rear wheel didn't give me any trouble I'm thinking the front one had issues and the fatter tires I had on before didn't expose it.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

So this is a new one...

I was thinking the external bb on my fixie might be shot. On my geared bike I probably wouldn't have noticed yet, but a little bit of play at the top of the pedalstroke is pretty apparent riding fixed or ss. No matter how tight I set the preload there's still a bit of play, so it's probably the bb but maybe it could be crank wear?

I have an old bb that I'd popped the bearings out of and pressed in some basic enduro bearings. So I swap that bb onto the bike to try and determine if it's the BB or the crank. I grease the crank and try to reinstall it, and it Will. Not. Budge. 

So I grab the rubber mallet and bang-bang-bang and no luck. Try again - bang-bang-BANG! Okay, this is weird. So I decide to give up. I yank the crank off, and it sucks the bearing out of the cup?!? The bearing was stuck on the spindle, and the only way I could get it off was using a hammer and punch to carefully tap it off.

It's an FSA crank that I've used with FSA, Raceface, and XT BBs. And I've used these enduro bearings with shimano cranks. So I don't know what's going on here.

For now I think I'm just going to put it back together the way it was, to see if this adventure has done any damage to the crank. After that, I dunno? Putting a new bearing back in, and trying even harder to bang the crank in seems like a bad idea.



Edited to add: so after some research, it turns out that some (but not all) FSA cranks have a 24.07mm spindle diameter, compared to the 24.00mm standard. Most BBs (shimano and rf) have a plastic sleeve between the spindle and bearing, so even though the spindle is oversized you can still squish it in there. But with the enduros the spindle and bearing are tight, so it's no-go. At the co-op I like blaming the French for all the weird, old, mismatched standards, but it turns out some manufacturers are still doing it.

Not sure what to do next. I really didn't want to buy another junky FSA or RF BB, but I don't know that any of the better BBs will fit this crank.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Deleted. Wrong thread.


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

newfangled said:


> So this is a new one...
> 
> I was thinking the external bb on my fixie might be shot. On my geared bike I probably wouldn't have noticed yet, but a little bit of play at the top of the pedalstroke is pretty apparent riding fixed or ss. No matter how tight I set the preload there's still a bit of play, so it's probably the bb but maybe it could be crank wear?
> 
> ...


Probably luck but FSA bb have held up better for me than SRAM or shimano - though I got an off brand ceramic gxp bb from ebay on my new cross bike that I have high hopes for. I think replacing the bearings on those BB's in general is pretty bad news, though you can get away with it for shimanos with the right tools. Unfortunately there aren't any mid-level options for FSA (this is why I put a SRAM crank on the new bike - though I will be replacing it with a square taper if the BB doesn't hold up).

I set my ss cross bike up as a half-dinglespeed last night (sticking with single front ring so chainline will be perfect when I flip the wheel to fixed side). The 36x16 is almost enough to get me to 20 on the road and 36x18 should be nice for trail riding. Have a 15t cog I can throw on if I need it, but keeping a 17 on there now for trails


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

newfangled said:


> Edited to add: so after some research, it turns out that some (but not all) FSA cranks have a 24.07mm spindle diameter, compared to the 24.00mm standard. Most BBs (shimano and rf) have a plastic sleeve between the spindle and bearing, so even though the spindle is oversized you can still squish it in there. But with the enduros the spindle and bearing are tight, so it's no-go. At the co-op I like blaming the French for all the weird, old, mismatched standards, but it turns out some manufacturers are still doing it.
> 
> Not sure what to do next. I really didn't want to buy another junky FSA or RF BB, but I don't know that any of the better BBs will fit this crank.


Check out Boca Bearings site...you can probably find a bearing with the required ID OD and width etc...just a C hair bigger....

Might hafta specify a english bearing rather than a metric bearing..


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^^ I've been running a 16/18 half-dingle on my 29er for a few months now, and while 2 teeth difference doesn't sound like much, I've been pretty happy with it. For 3 years that bike had been just a little too spinny on the commute. But now I've got a reasonable road gear (that works on most but not all trails), and a trail gear for weekends.

As for the FSA cranks, they came stock on one of my bikes, so I wouldn't cry if I had to replace them. But on my 29er I am running XT cups with replacement bearings and shimano cranks, and have had no issues. It's just the weirdo FSA cranks that are the problem.


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## Medic Zero (Jun 8, 2011)

.



> What have you done to your commuter today?


Snapped my front derailleur cable.

I guess later today I'll be installing a new front derailleur cable! :lol:

Damned slow going getting home this morning (I work nights), stuck in my small chainring! I've never spun so much, so fast, or coasted so much on my 10 mile commute before! :eekster:


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

When I bought my CX commuter, the original owner had already swapped the shifters from Tiagra to Ultegra, and added Ultegra cassette, chain, and FD/RD, with a Dura Ace crank. The cassette is 23-11, and is just too high geared for me and my daily needs. Towing the kids or a grocery load in the trailer is almost impossible, especially if I come to a hill.

When I get off work, I'll swing by the shop and we're going to put on a Deore or XT RD with a 32-11 cassette. That will still allow me to run with the big dogs on the weekend shop rides, but haul my groceries without having a heart attack.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ is your Ultegra shifter 10spd? (If it is, then the internet tells me that won't work)


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> When I bought my CX commuter, the original owner had already swapped the shifters from Tiagra to Ultegra, and added Ultegra cassette, chain, and FD/RD, with a Dura Ace crank. The cassette is 23-11, and is just too high geared for me and my daily needs. Towing the kids or a grocery load in the trailer is almost impossible, especially if I come to a hill.
> 
> When I get off work, I'll swing by the shop and we're going to put on a Deore or XT RD with a 32-11 cassette. That will still allow me to run with the big dogs on the weekend shop rides, but haul my groceries without having a heart attack.


EDIT: Nevermind, I clearly can't read....

Shimano does make road RDs that can take bigger cassettes. My friend has a 12-30 on his road bike with Tiagra 10 speed shifters.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Straz85 said:


> Make sure your RD can take an 11-32. Some road RDs can't go that big.


That's the whole reason we're taking off the Ultegra RD and going with Deore.


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> That's the whole reason we're taking off the Ultegra RD and going with Deore.


You responded while I was editing my last post, I re-read your post and saw that you're swapping the RD.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Ha! My bad, man. Just got everything set up and it works like a charm. I really liked being able to get up to speed quickly on the hills, which I hadn't been able to do previously. 

Now I've got a slow leak in the front tube... Not what I wanted to do tonight.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Ive regularly used a shimano external BB with FSA energy crankset on my SS. Im using the BB in a frame with track ends + drive side surly tug bolt and have noticed that the combo does a number on the BB bearings.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

swapping out my V2 pompino frame for a V4 frame with revised geo (steeper HA/SA and longer ETT) and in a really nice looking raw finish. Its almost too nice for a pub grocery commuter...


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Everything has finally arrived.

Thomson Elite 25.4 stem
Fyxation 25.4 Rodeo bullhorn bars
Fizik Bar Gel and tape

Made an offer on the brand new stem on eBay thinking that there would be no way that it would sell for what it did, but it did, to me. Tried to order the bars through my LBS but they showed that QBP was backordered on them. Found them on Amazon, the last set in this size and color, for $22.00 shipped to my door, $7 cheaper than I could find online, at Fyxation or the LBS could get them. Felt bad for LBS, so I bought the Fizik gel and tape there, which is the same stuff I used on my last bullhorns. I really like it, and you can place the gel anywhere you want on the bars and wrap the tape over it. 

The bars have a slightly longer reach than my current bars, and the stem is a slightly lower rise. Might have to try different combos out before I settle on one that works.


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## mort1369 (Oct 12, 2013)

Put some Power Grips on the Raleigh. See how that works out. . . .


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## mort1369 (Oct 12, 2013)

Took the Power Grips off the Raleigh, put the platforms back on, and did a 'mini Le Tour de Bullhead'. in 100+ degree, 30% humidity, and the usual winds. . . .


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Installed my new stem and bars along with the stock front wheel. Got it right the first time with the headset, which is an absolute miracle given that I always had bad luck with Thomson stems on my mtb. Always took me at least 2-3 tries to get it buttoned up correctly. Installed the fi'zi:k bar tap and gel. Did a pretty decent job for my third try at this, right up until it was time to put the bar end caps in. Those sob's would NOT go in. I think I fudged up the start of the bar tape also, so it isn't perfect, but after using a hammer, they are in there. Spacing on the wrap is much better than last time, and much cleaner. Gel pieces did NOT want to stay on the bar. Ended up using electrical tape to hold the left one in. Right one sort of stayed in place but was being a pain in the butt. 

So is this a normal thing with the end caps or does it depend on the tape/brand of caps you use?


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## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

TenSpeed said:


> So is this a normal thing with the end caps or does it depend on the tape/brand of caps you use?


There are a lot of variables. Tape, caps, bar tubing thickness. Too tight is better than too loose. There's few thing worse than having an end cap fall out and your taple slowly unraveling in the middle of a race 

Use corks...then you can shape it to fit just right


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I use corks I get from my wife, the wine drinker, and cover them with beer bottle caps. It's a cool way to personalize your ride without going all out, and adds a distinguishing feature in the event that it's stolen.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Picked up a Cateye Stealth 10 wireless computer from my buddies shop today. Holy hell this thing is kind of complicated. I think I have the jist of it, but it will be a learning process. Huge bonus is that it is completely wireless, no spoke magnet and receiver on the fork. I am not really crazy about the mount and may try to fab something a little nicer up that won't scratch the stem.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Relaced a wheelset last night. The hand-me-down wheels I've been using on my fixie have black, anodized rims. They are designed for rimbrakes, but after almost a year of wear (including all of last winter) they look like garbage. 
So a new wheelset was always in the plan at some point, but I saw that chainreaction had silver mavic rims with a matching ERD and free shipping. It's getting pretty tough to find non-disc 26" rims, and since these would let me reuse my old spokes I couldn't resist. Moved the hubs and spokes over, retensioned and trued them up last night.

Also redid the rimtape on the rear wheel of my 29er. It had migrated from the center channel over into the bead, and the exposed spoke holes finally cut a hole in the tube. Also checked the front wheel on my 29er and discovered that I'd been running at 15psi - bumped it up to a slightly more reasonable 22psi.


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## 411898 (Nov 5, 2008)

I added a CF bottle cage, dropped the shifters down a bit for better reach and lowered the seat post a half inch. I also let 5PSI out of the rear tire. Just got the bike so I'm getting her dialed in.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Had to replace my Velocity Deep Vee rear wheel with the stock Alex something or another for a time. The Velocity free hub body was grinding something terrible and wouldn't stay put in the dropouts, constantly shifting to rub against the left brake pad. Seeing that I'm 260 pounds, I'm not sure I have much trust in this wheel, but at the same time, they were built specifically to handle the rigors of CX. I'll give it a shot.

I also took my Dremel to the plastic body around my Shimano Click'R pedals. I had cracked the right pedal body and it was causing this unbearable squeaking noise. It's gonna be weird not having that platform around the cleat catcher thingy, but I'll get used to it.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

All the Click'R pedals are is a basic M520 with a plastic support around it. I would guess that it would be used for regular shoes. If you clip in, you probably won't notice this much.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

TenSpeed said:


> All the Click'R pedals are is a basic M520 with a plastic support around it. I would guess that it would be used for regular shoes. If you clip in, you probably won't notice this much.


You definitely notice the platform around the center pedal. It was a good 30 mile ride today, and I noticed that my knee tracking had improved on my bad leg. I think the platform was preventing my leg from moving how it needs to roll to keep my knee from grinding. But I'm happy, so there we go.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> Had to replace my Velocity Deep Vee rear wheel with the stock Alex something or another for a time. The Velocity free hub body was grinding something terrible and wouldn't stay put in the dropouts, constantly shifting to rub against the left brake pad. Seeing that I'm 260 pounds, I'm not sure I have much trust in this wheel, but at the same time, they were built specifically to handle the rigors of CX. I'll give it a shot.


My 36 spoke Velocity/DT swiss double butted spokes/Campagnolo Chorus hub has handled me in 200-240 lb range since built in 2010 and the rim and hub survived a metal water bottle insertion. Not riding too much CX with it though some streets I rode on may qualify. The rim is as near bullet proof as I could want. Sorry your Velocity hub freewheel cluster is not up to par.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

The rim has never come out of true since day one. It's simply
The freewheel body, it sounds like the bearings are shot, but there's no way to rebuild it. Velocity has warrantied the freewheel body, so I'm just waiting for it to arrive.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Swapped a 60mm stem onto my hardtail. Over the past few months I've been playing a game of musical-handlebars with all my bikes, and that bike had ended up with an 80mm. It's been comfy enough, but I've been struggling a bit in spots that I shouldn't be, so it was time for a change. I had a 60 and a 90 in the parts bin, and tried the 60mm first thinking that it would probably be too small, but then I had a fantastic ride today.


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## 411898 (Nov 5, 2008)

newfangled said:


> Swapped a 60mm stem onto my hardtail. Over the past few months I've been playing a game of musical-handlebars with all my bikes, and that bike had ended up with an 80mm. It's been comfy enough, but I've been struggling a bit in spots that I shouldn't be, so it was time for a change. I had a 60 and a 90 in the parts bin, and tried the 60mm first thinking that it would probably be too small, but then I had a fantastic ride today.


It's a great feeling when you do find the sweet spot.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Yeah. I wasn't really expecting that the shorter stem would help with standing climbs, but I guess it lightened the front wheel and added a bit of weight and traction to the rear. It just feels a lot more natural than it had been.


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

It was a struggle but got these bars onto my old quill stem


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Saying goodbye to my Bigshot commuter. I had some really good rides on this bike, but it is time to let someone else enjoy it now.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Last weekend I washed my helmet. A bathroom sink soak for maybe 15-20 minutes with some Woolite, and some Tide scrubbed into the (previously gray) straps for good measure. Rinsed it and set it outside, came out great.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ that's funny, because just this morning I was thinking about asking people for helmet washing tips (helmet de-stinking tips, really).

I've got a spray bottle with some diluted baking soda that I've been using on the dog's collar, and that seems to work okay on the helmet, but it does leave behind a weird residue. And I don't care what the commercials for Febreeze say - it is the worst stuff in the world.


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## mort1369 (Oct 12, 2013)

Loaded up, slid over my rock-hard French saddle, and took off. 

Totally forgetting my water bottles.

Not the thing you want to do in a desert area.

In August.

Fortunately, there are plenty of stores around town.

And the bike/pedestrian pathway at Rotary Park has plenty of drinking fountains.

Also Wally World has thermal water bottles that do seem to work.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Wrong thread.


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## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)

threw on some cheap reflective stickers


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## mort1369 (Oct 12, 2013)

Changed to an FSA Vero 165mm crankset.


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## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)

made a lid for the crate from a broken crate I had laying around.....good thing I didnt toss it out


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I made a lot of changes just now.

Swapped bars back to the original BigShot stock bars/Dimension stem. Bullhorns are the same width, but more shallow than the Fyxation/Thomson stem setup, and the Thomson is a slightly longer stem, so it was throwing me off. These long rides are really singling out any cockpit/fitment issues that I may have, so they need to be addressed. Swapped the original saddle back on, and took my Specialized Avatar off. I love the Avatar, but the stock saddle isn't bad, so I will see if that helps any. Riding fixed gear, I am finding that I am getting quite a bit more actual saddle time than before and so there isn't much rest for my butt unless we are climbing or taking off from a dead stop.

Lighting was also something that I wanted to change up, so I started thinking about my lighting needs and am going to try a slightly different set up. Most of my commute home is on lit streets, with the last 2.5 miles or so on a very dark and unlit MUP. The Serfas Thunderbolt that I have is more than ideal for the city area, but less than ideal alone on that path. I currently have it mounted dead center, right across the face plate of the stem. This frees up the bar for more hand positions for me, which I need, and prevents accidental partial/full coverage by my hands when repositioning on the bar. I have a helmet mount for my Niterider Lumia 700 or 350 which works great on the MUP. I will just resort to that for darker roads/situations.

Part of this comes from these group rides that I have been on. The Lumia is just absolute overkill in a group ride as it just blinds the people ahead of me, in their mirrors and when they look back. People think that I am a car coming up which really throws them off. I will just keep it in my bag or pocket with the bar mount if we end up somewhere that a brighter light is needed.

Next up is installing cleats in my new shoes that I picked up at Performance Bike today on sale. My Chrome shoes are just not working out like I had hoped. I need to take a Dremel to the sole to clear some of the sole out for easier release. I had a few issues last night getting unclipped, and I can blame the shoes as I know how to unclip.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Switched from 66.9 Gear Inch (GI) 40/16 to a 70.2 GI 42/16 on the SS.


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## In-Yo-Grill (Jul 19, 2011)

Picked up a "new to me" set of wheels and tires this past weekend. Finally got them installed and readjusted the brakes for the new centerlock rotors. These bad boys are going to scream.


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## ThundaCrymz (Oct 22, 2012)

Installed a new rigid fork on my commuter, not many bikes use a 9" steerer tube, so i was glad to find one, even though the color of it clashed with the bike, but will be rigid like i want it


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

1 week went past with no posts. No way. What did I do? Pics to come tonight


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## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)

put my rear mech into the rear wheel during a climb... broke all but 3 spokes on the drive side, locked up the wheel and caused me to crash... it happened pretty quick....I realized what was happening about the time the wheel locked up... nailed the curb and down I went... the rear wheel and rear mech were toast along with some other stuff from the crash......dragged the bike back home and scrapped it after taking off all the good parts.... not sure what happened, it was working fine yesterday


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## 411898 (Nov 5, 2008)

rockhopper97 said:


> put my rear mech into the rear wheel during a climb... broke all but 3 spokes on the drive side, locked up the wheel and caused me to crash... it happened pretty quick....I realized what was happening about the time the wheel locked up... nailed the curb and down I went... the rear wheel and rear mech were toast along with some other stuff from the crash......dragged the bike back home and scrapped it after taking off all the good parts.... not sure what happened, it was working fine yesterday


Wow, sorry to hear.


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

rockhopper97 said:


> put my rear mech into the rear wheel during a climb... broke all but 3 spokes on the drive side, locked up the wheel and caused me to crash... it happened pretty quick....I realized what was happening about the time the wheel locked up... nailed the curb and down I went... the rear wheel and rear mech were toast along with some other stuff from the crash......dragged the bike back home and scrapped it after taking off all the good parts.... not sure what happened, it was working fine yesterday


Wow unlucky
I've had a a large stick of wood catch the RD and break the cage / damage a few spokes riding through our jungle trails before but it is pretty unusual on pavement. All I can think of that may cause that is that the pin holding the cage onto the RD parallelogram sheered or the hanger or mounting bolt snapped /came off.

Serviced my commuter yesterday, Went back to 11/23 form the 11/28 cassette installed for and left on after a 4 day mini road tour to the worlds biggest dormant volcano a while back, new cables and housings and a new chain - all else was in good order.


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## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)

I replaced the rear axle yesterday because it was bent..... adjusted the rear mech after I got it all together...... even rode it around the block and shifted through all the gears to make sure it was working good.......I was able to salvage the tires,rear axle, freewheel,pedals,handlebars and stem,front fork,brakes, seat,shifters, brake levers, front mech and all the accessories.... the only bike I have left is my rockhopper..... took 3 frames(all dept store bikes... a bmx and 2 ladies frames) and 4 sets of junk wheels off to the scrapper down the street


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## mort1369 (Oct 12, 2013)

Had to replace the rear tube on the Raleigh Friday. . .


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

On Saturday, I had to stop three times to get the rear fender adjusted 'just so'. It had been reset as the nuts on the stay clamp bolts went AWOL and were replaced when I fixed the rear flat tire. It kept wanting to sag a bit into the tire. A lot quieter and slightly easier to roll once set right.


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

Rode a Norco Fiori Avventura tandem home solo last night. 
I have to say, riding a longtail cargobike like the Kona Ute? 
Basically training for a tandem! 

Tore it apart to make it tour-able (we usually run about 25kph average over the 140-150k per day). 
Dropped the 26" 48-spoke DM18's for some 36-hole hugi-hubbed wheels, salsa 29er race rear rim, old wtb powerbeam 26" front. 28mm gatorskin on the back, 1.25 fat boy slick on the front, 8-speed xt casssette. Think I dropped 2 pounds per wheel. 
Stock bars on this thing may've been steel, my stem/bar/bar-end/aero-bars setup weighed less than the old adjustable stem and bars!
Suspension seatpost for my stoker, tossed the chunky "comfort" seats and presto... think maybe 6 pounds dropped.
Kept the drivetrain and brakes untouched so I can convert it back to standard quickly at the end of the tour since it's a loaner and I have to give it back!!!

I had built myself a klein q pro carbon team for the ride, but I'm going to be bringing my buddy who's blind with me, so we figured it was either try a tandem or lots of barked commands on the road.

See you all in a couple weeks.

Follow us dummies on Bike for United Way


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Pulled the WTB Valcon out of the parts bin and stuck it on the new-old frame. Rode this morning, and at lunch, and on the way home, and then took the saddle off and replaced it with the Pure V. The Valcon originally came with my Kona, and I think I've tried it on 6 frames now, and I hate it. I think it's finally going to the co-op.


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## junior1210 (Sep 9, 2011)

Giro Republic Touring Shoe (two bolt pattern)








Put a pair of these on order.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

^ that's a sharp looking shoe!


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

My CrossCheck has developed some rattles lately. I thought it was the fenders, so yesterday I checked everything and the fenders were fine. Turns out it was the NiteRider taillight. I love the beam on that thing, but man does it have a crappy mount. It rattles, the light has fallen out of the mount a couple times, the bolt holding it on keeps loosening on it's own. Never had any of those issues with my PB lights. From now on I'm just going to clip it to my seat bag or helmet and use my PB Superflash Turbo on the seatstay or seatpost.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Swapped the Specialized Avatar saddle back on and took the factory Felt saddle off.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

mtbxplorer said:


> Wow, another chain bites the dust! It seems like yesterday, but it was 3 months ago. Check yer chains, commuters!


Had to do the 10 speed at 1000 km. bike shop says they should last 1800. Im almost at 800 on this one. Prob going to run it till im on my winter bike in a couple months then change it for next spring.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

Winter tires came in sooo i installed them and got my winter bike ready. It was my last year summer commuter. Was thinking of putting 29" wide bars on and a adjustable angle stem to dial it exactly like my summer bike. Just took it for a spin and ill leave it for now. Basically handlebars just need to be 2" taller. I may flip my stem on my rocky cause i sit really upright which is comfy but makes my torso a huge sail holding me back in the wind


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## junior1210 (Sep 9, 2011)

My Magicshine MJ-816 middle light just gave up the ghost (though the two side lights still work). Got 2 1/2 years out of it so not bad. Ordered a cheap dual Cree XML U2 light off Amazon to fill in til I'm ready to pony up for another MagicShine.


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## vegascruiser (Mar 22, 2013)

Overhauled my front hub. Went ahead and used old bearings with some fresh grease. This front hub has just under 3000 miles on it. Not bad for a Walmart single speed cruiser. Adjusting the hub took a little patience, as it always does. Keep expecting this $100 bike to eventually bite the dust, but haven't ran up against any fix yet that isn't pretty routine.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Mounted a Barfly mount for my Cateye computer. Had to hit the LBS last night for a shim since Barfly does NOT make any type of adapter for 25.4 bars. Cleaned my bike fully from last nights downpour. Adjusted chain tension on the rear wheel. Even removed the front wheel and cleaned the fork and wiped the brake pads off.


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## junior1210 (Sep 9, 2011)

Got my Solarstorm bar light. Looks like it'll do the job, and the battery pack seems on par with my Magicshine pack, although smaller. The Giro Republic shoes will serve well I think. Posted a review on RBR in their product review section in case anybody is interested.


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## honez1414 (Jan 11, 2011)

Bought a planet bike super flash tail light, a mirrcycle bar end mirror, setback seatpost, and set up some lower rolling resistant tubeless tires.

Setup my wife's never ridden 29 hardtail for commuting. Now to see how long before she notices.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Alright, let's see. 

New Cateye Volt 700 instead of the Bikeray USA Speed II that crapped out and they won't respond to warranty inquiries. 

New 53t chainring since the old one was getting worn and I had already replaced the chain and cassette. The 39t looks to be in great shape. 

New Lizard Skinz bar tape. I like this stuff a lot.

Well, that's about it.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Oh, went from SPD to SPD-SL. Really enjoying the wider platform.


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## WiTrailRunner (Mar 1, 2011)

New bar plugs. I wasn't sure if the orange was too much or not, but I'm liking it.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I like it! Matches the accent colors nicely.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Got a wild hair and switched the mary bar for a cowbell bar only to reinstall the mary bar within 24 hours b/c the cowbell was so uncomfortable.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

jrm said:


> switched the mary bar for a cowbell bar only to reinstall the mary bar within 24 hours


That's a pretty big switch. When I went from a mary to a midge I switched from a 100mm stem to 32mm stem, and the midge is still further forward.


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

WiTrailRunner said:


> New bar plugs. I wasn't sure if the orange was too much or not, but I'm liking it.
> 
> View attachment 921755


That looks awesome! I really like that bike a lot, the blue with orange accents looks great. The white grips are nice too. Those will get dirty fast though!


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

Installed the Midge bars on the SS yesterday. Also put a 90mm stem on. Excuse the crappy bar tape, I reused the stuff that came on there in case I don't like the bars. Didn't want to waste new tape.


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## WiTrailRunner (Mar 1, 2011)

Straz85 said:


> That looks awesome! I really like that bike a lot, the blue with orange accents looks great. The white grips are nice too. Those will get dirty fast though!


Ha! Thanks, Straz and TenSpeed. It's been almost 4 months now and I've been pretty diligent about cleaning my bar tape. I am sure I will get tired of it eventually and let them get dirty. We'll see.

I like the look of your new SS! The varying colors of blue go well together.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Got the new decals for my bridgestone. The originals were chipped up and yellowed (which bugged me), so I pulled them off and replaced them with the new ones. Also took off some of the surface rust, and then clearcoated over a bunch of paintchips to get ready for winter.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

WiTrailRunner said:


> ... It's been almost 4 months now and I've been pretty diligent about cleaning my bar tape. I am sure I will get tired of it eventually and let them get dirty. We'll see.


I'm impressed they are still so clean, what do you use for cleaning? I only have white on the fatbike (those silicone ESI grips), and they are dirty!


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## WiTrailRunner (Mar 1, 2011)

I've just been using dish soap and water! Nothing fancy.


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

slapped some x9 and an xt cogset on the casseroll, along with BIG 47mm tires and a comfy comfy wtb seat.

figured I deserve some cush after the tour.


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## 411898 (Nov 5, 2008)

All I did to mine today was RIDE IT!


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

Replaced the 39T chainring on my CrossCheck with a 44T. I still feel like I could go bigger. I should have just bought the 46T my buddy just took off his CX bike and saved myself a lot of money!


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Nothing. One nice thing about singlespeeds is low maintenance.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

So I haven't actually done this yet, but I'm seriously considering converting my hardtail to ss. And that would give me 2 ss, 1 fixed, and 0 geared bikes.

It seems dumb, but another summer is over, and I've kindof had to force myself to ride the hardtail. That might be because it's 26", although I really doubt it. Or it might be because it has suspension, although I don't have an easy way to change that. So I'm thinking about ditching the 1x9.

My other ss is actually geared pretty high to make it good for commuting, while still pretty good for the trails. But I could gear the hardtail way lower, since I don't really commute on it anyway. And I've got a bunch of chainrings and cogs in my partsbin to play with. Just have to see if I've got enough spacers.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

*New platform pedals*

really disappointed that the soles of my shoes rest on the pedal spindle before the platform. Waste of $50. So ill replace um with my comfy $17 wellcos.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ totally agree. I got some nukeproof pedals like that last year.

On one bike they gave me crazy shoulder pains, so I tossed them in the parts bin. Then a few months later I put them on a different bike, and suddenly I was almost going over the bars on every ride (it sounds bizarre, but balancing on a peg is much different from balancing on a platform). So they went back in the bin. And they just feel awful.

I don't know who actually likes convex pedals, but I seriously hate them.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

*Creak Hunting*

I pulled the cranks out of the bottom bracket, cleaned up everything, re-greased, re-torqued the chain-ring bolts, cleaned the chain for good measure, put everything back together...And the creak is still there. Must be a pedal.


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## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

Replacable derailleur hangers are notorious for creaks as well.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

Huh, I've never seen that. It seems to be in the crank area so the pedal is next on my list and then I'll try the hanger. Or I'll ignore it. I'm convinced that it it isn't something that is going to cause more wear if it isn't addressed. It only happens under light load and disappears under heavy pedaling.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

bedwards1000 said:


> Huh, I've never seen that. It seems to be in the crank area so the pedal is next on my list and then I'll try the hanger. Or I'll ignore it. I'm convinced that it it isn't something that is going to cause more wear if it isn't addressed. It only happens under light load and disappears under heavy pedaling.


I have a squeak finally located it...it is the right shoes.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

bedwards1000 said:


> I pulled the cranks out of the bottom bracket, cleaned up everything, re-greased, re-torqued the chain-ring bolts, cleaned the chain for good measure, put everything back together...And the creak is still there. Must be a pedal.


Good luck. Last year I tore my 29er apart a dozen times with no success.

Finally though, I did a _really_ OCD cleaning (degreaser+toothbrush on all the threads and mating surfaces) and then when craaaaaaaaazy with grease. Just huge gobs of it on everything. And that magically fixed it (and I'm pretty sure it was the bb all along)

But as Jeff says, it could also be something weirdo like a shoe or bottlecage bolt.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

This problem transcends shoes . I'll just swap the pedals between bikes and see if I can move the problem.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

New Axiom rear rack came in today. Mounted painlessly on the Bosanova, no longer kicking my groceries.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

newfangled said:


> Good luck. Last year I tore my 29er apart a dozen times with no success.


I had this maddening chase for the noise when I switched from the Campy 53-42-30 to the Sugino 48-36-26. Could not locate the noise. finally suspected the sealed square drive BB. Pulled the right crank and found it had been rubbing on the bottom inside bearing cup. Not enough for much resistance, but enough for noise under power. The Sugino is supposed to use a BB 3 mm wider apparently. A thou taken off the inner crank hub face with a grinder fixed that problem. I also had it with old spd clips in a new pedal needing a bit of oil. Tracking down a noise can be maddening.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

So I did it - no more geared bikes for newfangled:



__
https://flic.kr/p/oVjjM7

So now it's 2 ss and 1 fixed.

It's 38x20, which is a weird gear choice. But I had been running a 38 ring upfront, and by keeping it I can always swap back to 1x9 pretty quickly. And I had the 20t cog in the partsbin. And I wanted something that was geared quite a bit lower than my 29er (51 gearinches vs 58 for the 29er vs 70 for the fixie).

I've decided my legs don't like gears anymore. For roads they're fine (although so are ss and fixed), but on dirt they make me lazy. My brain says "I've got gears so there's no need to try" and then I get hung up on stuff I'd easily clear on an ss. Or if I clear a section while toodling along in my lowest gear, I don't feel much of a sense of accomplishment.

Great first ride as an ss.

(sadly my 29er will get gears for the winter again, though)


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

^ I completely approve of this post. Ironic given my username.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ yeah, I really did like the 1x9 setup - it's way better than having a front derailleur. But still, everytime I've ridden the bike I've felt sluggish, and I'm never in the right gear, and I can just feel that derailleur back there, and spinning along a trail in 38x34 is boring. As an ss it's now geared too low to be a good commuter (120+rpm to hit 20mph), but I barely commuted on it this year anyway.


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## lextek (Mar 24, 2004)

Found and mounted my seatstay mount for my tail light so I could use my Revelate Design seat bag.


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

Sewed parts of a reflective vest to my barmitts.
Because I hear "I didn't see you" far far FAR too often.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ that's fantastic.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Adjusted my disk brakes and continued breaking in the Brooks saddle.

bykNuts, let us know how that goes. I have been wearing the green/ yellow version of that vest with mixed results. I have been wondering about adding a red dot sight and sound track (bagpipes, banjos, or accordions) as those who "don't see" me are usually crossing through the bike lanes, or are hooking me at intersections. Your solution is much more diplomatic.


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## sepulvd (Aug 18, 2014)

Order a seat bag and fenders for my commuter


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

byknuts said:


> Sewed parts of a reflective vest to my barmitts.
> Because I hear "I didn't see you" far far FAR too often.


Yeah. I try t make that equal to I wasn't looking where I was going with high vis lights and vest. If I survive I want to appear in court and say "If you can't see this then you are driving unsafely." Your idea is so amazingly amazing, I think I'll steal it. (Chaneling Zaphod Beeblebrox).


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Deciding if the bullhorn bar end brake lever will be a good option for me. Have a great deal lined up on a sweet brake lever. Sweeter than I need, but resisting is almost impossible. Would definitely free up more hand positions, and give me another mounting option for a front light.


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## billyrayeast (Dec 24, 2013)

built up a set of Velocity Fusion with a free set of cycletrack hubs and put them on the commuter....


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

BrianMc said:


> Yeah. I try t make that equal to I wasn't looking where I was going with high vis lights and vest. If I survive I want to appear in court and say "If you can't see this then you are driving unsafely." Your idea is so amazingly amazing, I think I'll steal it. (Chaneling Zaphod Beeblebrox).


feel free!! these were parts of the side panels of the vest, I removed the sticky side of the velcro and kept it aside, going to sew small pieces onto the shoulders of my backpack so the rest of it can attach and remove easily (i have to run the pack in winter, need to carry spare clothes for work, so a vest worn underneath is useless and it doesn't really fit over the pack and me)


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## Mengesch (Jul 10, 2014)

Ordered new wheels for the commuter today, Crest hoops on hope pro evo II hubs. Also picked up two new cassettes and chains to make switching between studded and non-studded easier this winter.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

Winter is an excellent excuse to buy some new wheels!


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

Mengesch said:


> Ordered new wheels for the commuter today, Crest hoops on hope pro evo II hubs. Also picked up two new cassettes and chains to make switching between studded and non-studded easier this winter.


That's a nice build, especially for a commuter wheelset. Always nice to have multiple sets of wheels with cassettes already installed. I've found myself wishing I had even more so I'm not always swapping tires. I could use my bikes on any given day with:

Cross Check - Commuter tires, snow tires
SS - Old commuter tires, snow tires, CX tires
CX - Road tires, CX tires

I would love 2 more wheelsets, one for the SS and one for the Cross Check.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Finally couldn't take the squealing front brake anymore. I swapped it a few days ago for an older Shimano DX that I had around, and most of the squeal went away. I ordered a Cane Creek Direct Curve and replaced *that*, and the sound is gone.

Blissful silence.

Since my Lumina died, in the interim, I've put on my bigger Gemini that I usually don't break out until later in the winter.


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## Mengesch (Jul 10, 2014)

Mengesch said:


> Ordered new wheels for the commuter today, Crest hoops on hope pro evo II hubs. Also picked up two new cassettes and chains to make switching between studded and non-studded easier this winter.


Got the front wheel today and a new hope bottom bracket. Need opinions, should I remove the decals off the Stan's rims and go with a stealth look or just leave them be?


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I built it. excluding the frame, a spacer and a star nut, it all came off my Straggler.

I much prefer this frame. as nearly identical as the bikes look on paper, I like this one a lot more.

Presenting, The Great Pumpkin.









I still need to go back into the shop and install new hydraulic lines (too short!) and do a few other things to really get it finished. (including a different rear wheel) but it's ride able. and It's amazing.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Replaced the generic cork style bar tape with some great stuff from Lizard Skinz. It has an awesome feel, I really like the grip pattern, and the thickness/Cush of it is something that can't be beat. 

I had to put the fenders back on. We had an exceptionally dry summer for coastal Florida. Maybe a few showers in the late evening, but nothing like what we typically experience. But everyone's calling for a really wet winter this year, and it's already started. 

I'm working on making a rain cover for my Camelbak Mule, which will be an absolute necessity this year. 

Switched out front lights from a Bikeray Speed II to a Cateye Volt 700. The Bikeray continually crapped out, would cut out randomly, and so on. It's unfortunate because I really liked the beam pattern and 1000 lumens, but reliability is where it's at for me. The Volt has that for me and I'm enjoying it. 

Been in the market for a Surly Cross Check frame. I've always liked steel more than any of the other materials. The way that it feels and the fact that if I need to fix it in my garage, I can, has always appealed to me. Unfortunately, it looks like it's gonna be time to replace the minivan really soon.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Agwan said:


> ...it all came off my Straggler.


I can't remember...did you ever get all of your straggler frame issues sorted out?


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## sepulvd (Aug 18, 2014)

Installed my new fenders on my crossrip but now not sure if am able to ride on trails with them on


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Purchased a new rear blinker from a local shop. Planet Bike Superflash Micro that is USB chargeable which is a requirement for me. Put it on my messenger bag and it works really nicely. I may run it on the rear tomorrow for my ride to work.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

newfangled said:


> I can't remember...did you ever get all of your straggler frame issues sorted out?


I did indeed. Surly sent Me a new frame and took back the old one in April. They were actually really fast and awesome about it.


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## Straz85 (Mar 20, 2009)

My headset has been getting progressively worse. It was really notchy. When I turned, it felt like the front wheel wanted to go back to straight, it didn't want to turn. I put it on the stand and it would get a little stuck on each rotation of the headset bearings. I took it apart, flushed and regreased the bearings. It was a little better but not 100%, so I had the LBS order me new bearings. They should be in Wednesday. I figured I'd take this opportunity to also do new cables, housing and handlebar tape. Right now it's sitting in my basement all taken apart, the bearings should be in Wednesday. You can also see my new chainring and BBG bash gaurd in this (blurry) photo.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Does anyone know if running a worn-out external bottom bracket can do damage to the cranks?

I just noticed that the cranks have some play that I can't get rid of, so the bearings are probably shot. But sometime in the next month I'll be swapping the whole drivetrain over to wintermode, including the cranks and bb. I'd rather not have to pull the bb twice, but I also don't like the idea of spending a couple of weeks of mashing away on my ss with bad bearings.

(it's an academic question, since my bike-OCD means that by the end of the day I will almost certainly have either stopped to pick up a replacement, or ordered one)


----------



## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

newfangled said:


> Does anyone know if running a worn-out external bottom bracket can do damage to the cranks?
> 
> I just noticed that the cranks have some play that I can't get rid of, so the bearings are probably shot. But sometime in the next month I'll be swapping the whole drivetrain over to wintermode, including the cranks and bb. I'd rather not have to pull the bb twice, but I also don't like the idea of spending a couple of weeks of mashing away on my ss with bad bearings.
> 
> (it's an academic question, since my bike-OCD means that by the end of the day I will almost certainly have either stopped to pick up a replacement, or ordered one)


Yes it most certainly will...the area under the bearing raceis subject to both corrosion and erosion....with a bad bearing there is more shock impact, and thata accellerates these processes.

You will end up with a small amount of play between the crank axle and the bearing...can maybe fix with epoxy glue for a while.

My first XT carank axle lasted from 2006 to 2013....then I replaced for the reasons above.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ yeah, I knew that uneven loading didn't seem like a good plan.

I'm a little hesitant because last year I had crank play and thought I had a failed bb, but it turned out that the bb spacer was crushed/shattered which was the problem. But I'll order a new bb anyway, and if I don't need it then it can live in the partsbin until I do.


----------



## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Alright, another question. Anyone ever replace just one side of an external bb? The left side has a lot of play, but the driveside still feels fine. They've only got one summer on them, which is quite a bit less than I usually get.

I've got a set of replacement bearings to pop in, but it feels silly to toss the ds one if it's still got life in it. (also silly would be not tossing the ds one, but then having to replace it early next spring anyway)


----------



## Mengesch (Jul 10, 2014)

Setup my rims tubeless last night (Stans Crest and Continental Tour Ride tires). They went up with the floor pump took about 10 minutes to get the tires to seal up with sealant at 55 psi. Front was still holding good this morning. Rear dropped to about 40 psi, it held up to the ride in this morning so I'm thinking it is all sealed up now.


----------



## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

newfangled said:


> Alright, another question. Anyone ever replace just one side of an external bb? The left side has a lot of play, but the driveside still feels fine. They've only got one summer on them, which is quite a bit less than I usually get.
> 
> I've got a set of replacement bearings to pop in, but it feels silly to toss the ds one if it's still got life in it. (also silly would be not tossing the ds one, but then having to replace it early next spring anyway)


I always kill the non drive side bearing first...so I move the drive side to the non drive side and put a new one on the drive side.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ are you actually able to pop the driveside bearing out without damaging it? I figured concentrating all that force on just the inner ring would trash it.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

New bottom bracket bearings for my 29er. Blaaaaaaaaah.

And then last night my computer (not commuter) died. I've got plenty of experience throwing money at random bikeparts, which I think makes it easier to throw money at random pc parts. It's a lot like a bike - one part has failed, but it's pretty old so I can't find a replacement, and now all the standards have changed, so I have to replace pretty much everything. Blaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah. Totally uninspired.


----------



## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)

been working in my bike the last few days.... it has been raining and I had an ingrown toenail removed last week so I havent been able to wear shoes till today.... I swapped out my tires because the road friendly tires were dryrotted and all I had left was 3 knobbies








I also worked on my lights..... had some bell radion lights and they were broke from being put on a few different bikes and being over tightened....zipties to the rescue, also had a dollar store special... the mounting hardware sucked... broke really easy , so I took the light apart and drilled a hole through the back and mounted it with a screw, washers and a nut




















one of these days I will get some better lights


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## mort1369 (Oct 12, 2013)

Installed a pair of Shimano 600 Tricolor calipers on the Raleigh.


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## KentheKona (Jul 6, 2013)

I cleaned the drivetrain, cycled the chain, put on the fall/winter tires, and added a new light bracket. I've started doing the multi-chain dance and have found keeping the unused chain in a WD40 bath really loosens the gunk up and makes it easy to clean.

I made a rack mount for a new cygolite rear light. I need something besides seatpost mount in case I have something on the top of the rack.

I just took a piece of pipe, added the seatpost mount to it and connected it to the rack with the screw that holds on the reflector. If I want to I can move it independent of the reflecting with a small screw and nut.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Noticed that the rearrack on my 29er has a pretty bad bend in the right leg. Not sure if it's new or old, or if it's from a crash or just longterm loading.

I know that I probably shouldn't ride some of the stuff that I do on the way home with loaded panniers, but it's just so easy. This rack has actually lasted 3 or 4 years, and maybe I should just accept that as a fair tradeoff. It's aluminum, and I'm going to replace it since a rack failing unexpectedly in the middle of winter sounds like a terrible idea.

I guess the day that I break my first chainstay or seatstay is the day that I switch from panniers to a backpack.


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## mort1369 (Oct 12, 2013)

I did have our local LBS install a Suntour Cyclone front derailleur about a week ago. . .


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Over loaded my mini rack basket set up on the way home from the grocery store. Each bump reminded me of the mini racks 15lbs limit as it making the rack and basket flex forward towards the front wheel. Seeing this happen i cant help thinking to myself that some day will be the last day that ill overload your mini rack/basket set up. Basket struts may be in order sooner than i thought. Love the current set up


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Newfangled: Wald steel rear racks are good for the average girlfriend so if you can clear disk brakes, one would likely survive any trial you can survive. American made and cheap:









Wald 215 Rear Bike Rack-W215 at The Home Depot


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I must have just woken up. When did Home Depot begin selling bike accessories like rear derailleurs????


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ yeah, that's weird.

Thanks for the suggestion Brian, but I'm picky and only want racks that have the extra strut at the back to prevent the panniers from hitting the wheel. I don't know why it's impossible to find a steel rack though, except for the super spendy ones like surly and tubus.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

^ For the price and strength, I think you could add that feature without too much effort.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ brian, do you mean I could have someone weld on the extra strut, or some other diy? It needs to be really rigid, so short of welding I don't know what would actually be strong enough.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

^ The steel is solid so brazing or welding is possible. Though the nice chrome finish will need a rattle can spray job. You can U-bolt on pieces of channel or square/rectangular/round tubes either aluminum or steel. If you used steel, that could be an interim method to find the setup you want then get it brazed or welded.

My "panniers" are fairly rigid trash receptacles, so I have no wheel suck issues. A piece of mylar or thin plywood in the pannier may stiffen a pannier enough to keep it out of the wheel. Depends how rough your single track is, I guess.

The Surly and Tubus are in the $120-$140 range, maybe a bit cheaper with fall clearance. Hmmm about $100 difference. The U-bolts and tube should be less than $20. Those are nice long term racks, though. If you'd like stainless steel:

VO Campeur Rear Rack - Racks & Decaleurs - Accessories


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ one of my coworkers is big into RC helipcopters, and he gave me a bunch of broken carbon rotor blades to use as pannier stiffeners. They're probably as good a problem solver as it gets, but they're still not enough - gotta have that extra strut.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Apartment life as a bike owner. Spending my Saturday night in the kitchen.










Rewrapped the bars and adjusted the brake lever. Ensured that the bars are centered on the stem. Messed around with my lighting mounts and came up bewildered. Niterider Lumina 350 and 700. Both have identical mounts. The 700 and 350 both fit one of the mounts, but the other has the 350 rattling around and the 700 snug. I cannot figure out what would make the mount do that!


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

^ Until you see the clamp of the stand on the top tube, the bike looks like it's huge! Wheels > 36", saddle at microwave door height, and the whole bike about eight foot long! A little photoshop work and you can have the amazing shrinking and expanding bike.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

^ haha I just noticed that!! I could really mess with it if I knew how to Photoshop.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^I like how it totally matches the decor.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

That was on accident. Pots and pan set was majorly on sale. Toaster was as well and purchased at a later date. Red hand towel and the red dog food placemat were all I had when I moved in that was red.


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

Bobike child seat (holds kids up to 35 kilos!) tried it out, decent feel but man does that thing ever weigh a ton! Odd that it doesn't come with a safety belt.

I pulled 8 shards of glass (varying types, colours, sizes) out of my gatorskin, I bought it right before my 1400K trip 2 years ago and it's been commuted on, and toured on, and happily thrashed about since then. Figured it's got enough carcass damage that I just should let it go.
My old schwalbe marathon extremes will end this season off before the studs go on.


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## mechBgon (Jan 28, 2007)

I splurged and got a dynamo taillight, B&M's high-end one with the brake-light feature. It monitors the dynamo's AC frequency and activates "boost" as a brake light when slowing. This is the "pulse" variant, which leads off with a pulsing effect. It also has a big reflector. The light seems pretty bright, and gives me one more level of redundancy.

I'm gearing up for more back-road and highway commuting in the dark through the winter. Sometimes the solitude is nice, know what I mean? So I have a few other light & reflective tweaks lined up to help in that kind of environment, where I want to get on the radar nice and early. I strapped a Hotshot Micro to the rear of my helmet, so I have a wider spread of lights (rear rack, seatpost, and helmet) to help triangulate my size better. The Micro has a wide-angle beam, so it's less sensitive to aim than a regular Hotshot.









This is an older pic of the bike, in an unusual lumber-hauling scenario. The whole frame is plastered with reflective tape, so it is called Reflecto-Bike.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Got my replacement rack today and installed it.

Discovered that my old rack wasn't just bent, it was totally broken:



__
https://flic.kr/p/pyek5G

There's a reinforcing rod in there that kept it from catastrophic failure. That's good to know, since the replacement rack is the same as the broken rack, so if/when I break the new one I'll know I've got some time before rushing to get a new one.

I looked at some old photos of my bike, and whatever damaged the rack must have happened in the last month or so. I don't actually remember any major crashes, and don't have any recent wounds, but I must have done something.


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## mechBgon (Jan 28, 2007)

newfangled said:


> Got my replacement rack today and installed it.
> 
> Discovered that my old rack wasn't just bent, it was totally broken:
> 
> ...


Whoa! What's your typical cargo load, out of curiosity?

Today I replaced some drivetrain parts on my commuter. My Deore rear shifter was getting worn enough that it was affecting the indexing, so I picked up a XTR shift pod off Ebay. That's a sweet upgrade because XTR can upshift two gears per punch if you want, and in stop-and-go arterial traffic, I can really make use of that.

I also replaced the chain and cassette, and the outer chainring.

Next up: rebuilding the wheels with a fresh pair of rims. I'm going with the Weinmann ZAC19, which is a great mix of strength, reasonable weight, and low price.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

mechBgon said:


> Whoa! What's your typical cargo load, out of curiosity?


Probably not a lot. I run two panniers - one filled with a few more tools than I need, and the other with clothes and a ulock. It's not a huge load, but I do ride all sorts of singletrack after work that I probably shouldn't. In this case though the leg has a serious bend in it that wasn't there a month ago, so I must have crashed. I don't remember it, so it must be one of those things where I jumped to safety while the bike took a hard hit.

Unrelated, but I was all ready to use ZAC19s for a wheelbuild, since they had the ERD I needed to reuse spokes. But I ended up going with mavic 317s instead, since with free shipping from CRC they were cheaper than the ZAC19s. It's really tough to find silver 26" rims nowadays.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Just got back from the other shop where I have a friend that works. Trying to diagnose a creak on my Jamis. We have decided that it is the carbon seat post. Did everything but pull the cranks off and look at the bottom bracket. The bike makes the creaking noise off the bike, by pressing down hard on the saddle/seat post. When riding and standing on the pedals, no creak. Sit down, and the creak starts again. OK, will just have to live with it I guess.

Bought some Lizard Skin tape to do the bars on the Felt. The Fizik tape I bought was just meh. Did Lizard Skin on the Jamis and I love it so why not? Might be my project for the night.


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## sasu (Nov 16, 2013)

Preparing for the 2x20 miles winter commute - built these winter wheels.

Rhyno Lite 29.5 mm 26" rims, XT hubs, Swiss DB spokes, Shimano 160 mm and 203 mm discs, Hakka WXC 300 spiked tires. I prefer the 11-28 cassette so I can use a shorter rear derailleur, less chain slap.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

New stem via eBay. Found it for a lot cheaper than new, and it is in like new condition. Should look killer on the Jamis. Will post a picture when I get it put on.


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## mechBgon (Jan 28, 2007)

After work last night, I put a fresh rim on my commuter's front wheel. I also cut a few strips of 3M reflective tape and used a hole punch to make spoke holes. In retrospect, it would've been easier to add the tape, then drill holes through it, THEN build the wheel. There's always next time 








Pro tip: those QuickWedge screwdrivers are handy for double-walled rims :thumbsup:


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## mechBgon (Jan 28, 2007)

sasu said:


> Preparing for the 2x20 miles winter commute - built these winter wheels.
> 
> Rhyno Lite 29.5 mm 26" rims, XT hubs, Swiss DB spokes, Shimano 160 mm and 203 mm discs, Hakka WXC 300 spiked tires. I prefer the 11-28 cassette so I can use a shorter rear derailleur, less chain slap.
> 
> ...


LIKE!  How wide do those tires measure in real life, out of curiosity?


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## sasu (Nov 16, 2013)

Exactly 2" sidewall to sidewall on those rims, the tire says 2.2".


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Took the fat slicks off and put tyres with some knobs on, instead.
The snow started falling (lightly) when I was on the way home. Not enough to be a concern, then, but it will keep up until morning, at least.


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## Simonns (Mar 25, 2004)

I finally changed out the jockey wheels on the rear der. They had 20,000ish miles on them so it was a good run. They were squeaking and doing more harm than good. Got the "new" set off an old broken xt derailleur I had around. 
It shifts much better now.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Finished winterization step #1: studs on the fixie.
Still to come: studs on the 29er, and putting gears on the 29er.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Ordered a new to me stem on Sunday, November 2 on eBay from California and paid instantly. Estimated delivery date was Thursday, November 6 via USPS. Item left the facility that is an hour away from me yesterday, Friday, November 7 in the am. I would expect delivery on Saturday, November 8, right? Wrong. It didn't come with the mail today. I am left with no stem now as I am selling the current one shortly via another forum. 

I ordered 4 items from PricePoint late Wednesday night I believe it was, into Thursday morning. PricePoint is located in California. That package arrived today completely unexpected. 

My happiness level right now is not high.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

^ I got something I have yet to order from Alpha Centauri! Faster that light delivery. Thank you, Douglas Adams! Science fiction aside, if I mail something beyond the local post office like to a nearby village, it goes to Indianapolis then returns to a that person 10 miles from me. So it is faster to get mail directly from Indy than from a neighbor 10 miles away. Central processing has it's downsides.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Winterization step #2 - studs on the 29er.



__
https://flic.kr/p/pZRPBv

Winter is here, and there's no point in denying it. Still going to keep it ss until the forecast calls for a giant snowfall though.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

I swapped the winter wheels onto the winter beater. The freehub was all wonky and binding so I pulled it off(first time I've ever tried that), cleaned it up and it seemed fine. Put it all back together and it was all bound up again. As soon as I tightened the cassette lockring it somehow pressed the metal dustcap into the bearings and bound it up. After having it apart more times than it deserved I left the dustcap off and all was good. I think I got these wheels used for $20 in 2011 and have used them every winter so they don't owe me much.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

So today I discovered that narrow/wide chainrings (for 1x setups) do not play nicely with half-links (for ss setups).

I put my winter bb and crankset (which has a narrow/wide ring) on my 29er, and was hoping to keep using it as a singlespeed with my summer chain and cog, but the half-link means that's not going to happen. It throws the chain out of sync with the teeth, and binds like crazy.

It's actually good to know (and really obvious, in retrospect), because the next time I needed an ss ring I figured that I might just get a narrow/wide for some extra versatility. But for ss I guess I'll stick with ss rings.


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## mechBgon (Jan 28, 2007)

The mild Fall weather finally gave out, and there was some black ice on the street this morning, so I switched to my studded tires before my morning commute & errands. After work, I put fresh brake pads on the rear brake before heading home.

For the rest of this week, it's supposed to be significantly colder, with highs a little below freezing and lows dipping towards the 10F / -12C area. So I think the pogies are going to be going on later this week too.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

My commuter bike is a Dahon Vigor P9. The other day, I swapped out the crappy stock crankset and bottom bracket for a Shimano CX50 with a 50 tooth Wolftooth narrow wide ring. It's 175mm arms vs 170 on the stock part. 
I was lovin' life riding to work this morning. On the way home, the left pedal started clicking and locked up. Now I have to see if there's a bomb proof folding pedal available.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I took my crankset off because it was popping again. A couple bolts were loose, but greasing and tightening them didn't have much of an effect. I also greased the pedal threads. Not much of a difference. The noise is definitely coming from the crankset/BB area and I can feel a tick in the crankset sometimes. This crankset looks cool but it is kind of annoying (not a pic of my bike, but this is the same crankset):


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Received the stem in the mail today, finally!!! Package returned to shipper due to lack of enough postage. That is a major fail on the sellers part. With flat rate shipping, Priority, etc. this should not happen. Messaged seller on eBay with a chance to rectify the situation before negative feedback is left. Anyway, on to the stem!










Ritchey WCS Axis 4 90mm 84/96 in Wet Red. Fits the scheme perfectly if you ask me. Friend helped me make the decision between this and a black/white stem and I am glad that I listened to him. Face plate is black with the Ritchey logo on it. This bike is done now.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Put fixie-straps on for the second time. I tried them once last winter, fell over a few times, hated them, and removed them mid-ride. This attempt was more successful, because I had them much looser, and I'd removed the pins from the pedals so that I was actually able to get my foot in and out.

Not sure if I'll keep them - they do making skidding super easy on snow, but I'd gotten pretty good at jamaican skids anyway. I think I'll probably take them off, because I'm worried that they'll make getting started from a deadstop in deep snow just too annoying. I already had a bit of that on my one ride.

Also got a new helmet. I spent all last year honestly hating my Met Crossover - the retention system interfered with my sunglasses, and the adjustment wheel was way down low on my neck and I swear it gives me head/neck/shoulder pains. So I found a shop that was having an end-of-season 25% off sale and tried everything. I was really hoping to get a helmet with MIPS like the Scott Stego or Lin, but both were really uncomfortable. Ended up with a Bell Stoker which is super comfy.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Fat bike - KORE 25.4 stem and flat bar installed, Specialized Avatar saddle installed. Just need to fine tune the cockpit now.
Felt - Fyxation bullhorns put back on and tape ends fixed.

I attempted to put a set of 25.4 bullhorns on the fat bike, but I could not get the brake and shifter levers onto the bar. I guess that the diameter is just off enough that they will not fit. Major bummer because it looked really cool and sitting on it my apartment gave me a lot of hand positions.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Mounted studded tires and planet bike cheap blinkies on the 26er. Test ride will have to wait till Sunday.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Made a trip to REI with a buddy of mine. Picked up an orange Origin8 top cap to finish off the fat bike bling. I also picked up a Cygolite Dash 320 which finishes off my light selection. Pretty excited to try this one out tomorrow on my commute which there is a forecast for snow!


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## jmmUT (Sep 15, 2008)

Led Bike Light Strips, Turn Indicators, most visible lights, by LED By LITE

Got these LED Light Strips as a gift and put them on my commuter this weekend. I highly recommend them, and I'm not just saying that because I know the owner.

They are very visible, pulse instead of flash, high quality, and were easy to install.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

^ 7.4 volt battery pack? Looks like they would light the Glo tape on my rims, though I may need the UV set up for the rear. Hard to estimate their output but I think they might do even with the sun directly behind. Nice find. I'll see what Santa thinks.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Ordered a new frame. It feels like a totally not-in-my-nature impulse buy, even though I have been mulling it over for quite awhile. I think it'll turn out okay.


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## bgenesis12 (Jul 11, 2014)

I upgraded my 2014 Charge Cooker SS with Continental Racekings 29 x 2.0 and Black ESI chunky grips. I am quite happy! ^_^


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

newfangled said:


> Ordered a new frame. It feels like a totally not-in-my-nature impulse buy, even though I have been mulling it over for quite awhile. I think it'll turn out okay.


You are gonna post this, and not drop the bomb on us?????? What did you get??


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ singular gryphon, which is a drop-bar specific 29er. It will be a straight swap of the parts off my kona, and then I'll try to get a few bucks for the old frameset. I've been running dirtdrops for a little over a year now and really like them, and they've cured wrist pain that had been bugging me for a few years, but the conversion setup is still really finicky.

I don't really need it, but I'd been eyeing it for awhile. Yesterday I was at a funeral, and spent most the time talking with a guy who'd just bought a Ti frame with the rational of "If not now, then when." Then I got home and saw the gryphon was on sale, and figured "Why not." Moral of the story: don't visit online stores right after you've been at a funeral.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Sorry for your loss, but your friend is right. Get it while you can if you can, and since it appears that you can, go for it!!!


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ it was for a very elderly and not-particularly-close relative, so as funerals go it wasn't too rough. Which is why I spent the time mostly talking about bikes.

I'd been stalling on the gryphon because:

It's not a true 29+ (although I don't actually care about 29+, but would just like it for future-proofing)
It can't take a suspension fork (which I'm even less interested in, but again future-proofing would be nice)
I figure a Fargo would be easier to resell inthe future if I ever want to (except it would also cost $400 more to buy a Fargo today)

But I figure that even if someone announces my dream bike tomorrow it would still be a year before I'd be able to get one. And the future stuff is even further out. So why wait?


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^It looks like a cool bike, enjoy!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Why wait? Go for it, and congrats on the purchase. Will be looking forward to seeing pictures of this.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Noticed that the rear wheel of my fixie had some play, so I grabbed the cone wrenches. Took a couple of cracks at it, and couldn't fix it even though the cones are in pretty good shape. Finally cranked down on the cones, and the play was still there, so what's the problem?

This wheel has a standard multi-speed disc hub, with the fixed cog bolted to the disc side, and an ss kit on the freehub. And the freehub was actually what was loose. So I pulled the axle out, cranked down on the fixing-bolt, and successfully put the bearings back together.

This one's my fault. Freehubs are normally such a pain to remove, and the last time that I'd put this one back together I must have been too gentle (hoping it would be easier to remove the next time). But apparently you really do need to crank down on those things.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

You know how you put a stem on, and then you tighten everything up, double check it, and sit there and cannot decide if the bar is straight or not? Been going back and forth on if it was or not by eyeballing it and walking away for a few hours then coming back and looking again. It was off I think so I slightly adjusted that and gave the bike a full wipe down. Fat bike is sitting there just filthy but it will probably stay that way through most of the winter.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

I disassembled some **** shimano bb, degreased it and filled it with molykote. Putting it on soon. I will last a long time now filled with real lube. It was some translucent green **** in there from the factory. But hey, why take a chance. probably gonna get 5 years out of that bb now. With absolutely no service.

I also machined some spacers for my cranks to get a good chainline. i made 2, 1mm ones, and one of each of 2,3,4 and 5mm, I made them out of bronze since that was what I had laying around for free. And its much better than alu.









I made all that to be able to run these bad ass *****es!!


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

TenSpeed said:


> You know how you put a stem on, and then you tighten everything up, double check it, and sit there and cannot decide if the bar is straight or not? Been going back and forth on if it was or not by eyeballing it and walking away for a few hours then coming back and looking again. It was off I think so I slightly adjusted that and gave the bike a full wipe down. Fat bike is sitting there just filthy but it will probably stay that way through most of the winter.


even when its 100% straight its gonna look weird if you look at it long enough. I believe you can have it several degrees off before you actually notice it while riding. like 5 degrees or something.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

car bone said:


> I disassembled some **** shimano bb, degreased it and filled it with molykote. Putting it on soon. I will last a long time now filled with real lube. It was some translucent green **** in there from the factory. But hey, why take a chance. probably gonna get 5 years out of that bb now.


I'm honestly not sure that the lubricant is real problem with EBBs. I think the stock seals and small bearings are the problem. But good luck with it.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

Added a 75mm 35deg riser, had a 100mm 7 degree on it.

Added my sled hand guards.... We will see if they do anything. They cut the wind awesome on the sled but dont survive roll overs to get unstuck.

I dont like the thought of muffs..... Feel like you could hurt a wrist or hand in a crash.

#canadastrong


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

solarplex said:


> Added a 75mm 35deg riser, had a 100mm 7 degree on it.
> 
> Added my sled hand guards.... We will see if they do anything. They cut the wind awesome on the sled but dont survive roll overs to get unstuck.
> 
> ...


Fingers didnt get cold today and was -17 degrees, colder than the last 2 weeks

#canadastrong


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

On thursday I picked up my new frame. Yesterday I frame-savered it and added reflective tape. Today I headed to the co-op to install the headset, and spent the rest of the day swapping parts over - mostly painless, but mounting the rack required a lot of fiddling and took forever. Puttered around on the bike a bit, and confirmed that it is not too small for me (I was right between sizes, and couldn't be sure). Tomorrow should be the inaugural ride (although the overnight temp will be -30C/-22F), and photos.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

All done:


__
https://flic.kr/p/piUgoZ

And the inaugural ride at -8F, with the sunset at 4:15:


__
https://flic.kr/p/qfu85a

It's pretty much a straight parts-swap from my kona - the only thing new is the headset. This frame is meant for dropbars with a short toptube, so I should be able to get away without the highrise stem that I'd been using on the kona. But after riding hunched over for so long this is a a nice change, so I'll keep it for awhile. But I've got 3 old stems in the partsbin to try out over the next few weeks.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

And some daytime pics:



__
https://flic.kr/p/qgcqEQ

This is my first eccentric bottom bracket. People seem to love them or hate them, but the general consensus seems to be that Singular does it right:


__
https://flic.kr/p/pYQPFn

The British Racing Green shows up best in this photo - it was one of the reasons I was hesitant to get a Gryphon, but I think it works pretty well:


__
https://flic.kr/p/qgfRVM

Lots of room in the fork, to apparently fit 29+ tires. Also plenty of clearance in the rear that will apparently fit some (but not all) 29+.


__
https://flic.kr/p/qfANkd


__
https://flic.kr/p/qfE7Ft
(if someone releases a nice ~3" studded tire and it doesn't fit the frame, I figure that worst-case I could always build a 650b rear wheel and run that for winter instead)


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

I like the bike and the green!


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Quiet around here. No one else is tweaking things?

I drilled out two bolts on my old frame. They were holding on the rear IS adapter for the disc brake, they'd originally been installed by the shop when I bought the bike, and they would not budge. I'd soaked them overnight in wd40, and heated them, but no luck. But the drill worked like a charm. I've tried that before on small bolts with no success, but these were M5s so I was able to get a beefy bit in there.

Also switched to spare stem #3 on the new frame, and I think this one may be a winner. #1 was a high-rise 40deg stem I'd been using on the old frame, and it was fine, but I was hoping I could get away with something less weird. #2 was 80mm/8deg and felt maybe a little too stretched out. #3 is 60mm/6deg and feels pretty good. Still plenty of experimenting to do though.


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

newfangled said:


> Quiet around here. No one else is tweaking things?
> 
> I drilled out two bolts on my old frame. They were holding on the rear IS adapter for the disc brake, they'd originally been installed by the shop when I bought the bike, and they would not budge. I'd soaked them overnight in wd40, and heated them, but no luck. But the drill worked like a charm. I've tried that before on small bolts with no success, but these were M5s so I was able to get a beefy bit in there.


Sounds like the shop is liberal with their lock-tite. That's why I prefer beeswax; it accomplishes the same thing but without the seized bolt effect.

On to bike changes: the new rear rack is nearly completed. Just one more stay to braze and then the mounting tabs. ~6 hours of work.

I also swapped the single-speed rear hub for an 8 speed hub. But will switch back when the weather turns wet again.


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## WiTrailRunner (Mar 1, 2011)

newfangled said:


> Quiet around here. No one else is tweaking things?


Nope  Sadly, my bike is attached to the trainer until spring. The mountain bike is still available for outdoor rides.

Congrats on the new bike -- I'm digging the green color and stripes combo.


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## nemhed (May 2, 2010)

I switched over to my "fat" winter tires (2.1" Serfas Drifters) and two new slime tubes last night, so things felt "different" today. Nice little confidence boost on the one infrequently traveled bridge I cross that had a light coating of snow this morning.

Nice bike, newfangled!


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

WiTrailRunner said:


> I'm digging the green color and stripes combo.


It's funny, because the Gryphon is very similar to the Salsa Fargo, and the Fargo is offered in that same beautiful blue that your roadbike is. And I reeeeeeally like that blue...except that Salsa doesn't sell a matching steel fork. You can get carbon in blue, but I don't want carbon. The steel one only comes in black, and what good would that be?

And so that's basically how I chose the gryphon. (although it was several hundred dollars cheaper, and has more tire clearance, and I don't tour which is what the Fargo is really designed for. But potential Gryphon downsides: green, ebb, questionable rack-mounting, non-tapered headset).

But if I could have gotten a blue fork, I'd almost certainly have gone for the Fargo.


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## mort1369 (Oct 12, 2013)

Tried out my new headlight on the Kona on the return trip from my gym. I'm not going to make too many friends with that thing, it is BRIGHT! Seriously, the first time i fired it up I had it pointed towards my face (oops). I saw spots for about an hour. I've swapped out the stem on the Raleigh and squirted the center of the bars and the seatpost (wrinkle black FTW), will be reassembling it soon. . .


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I did a bar swap on my Felt. I want to like these Fyxation bullhorns but I just don't. The reach is a bit too long and they are a bit too straight. Went back to the other bullhorns and I will wrap those this weekend I think with some Lizard Skin wrap that I did the bars on my Jamis with. Added a second NiteRider light mount on the bar of my fat bike. I have a Lumina 700 and 350 and the 350 is for the street and the combo will be for the MUP which should work nicely.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

So I've been cleaning up my old frame since I want to try to sell it (locally - no spam here )

I'd written my last name on it with autopaint, hoping that it might maybe possibly help to deter thieves (autopaint is super-easy to remove with acetone, but maybe thieves don't know that?). But I was always a bit worried that it might leave a stain or residue, particularly on a white frame. But no - it all cleaned right off.

I'd also added a bunch of reflective tape, knowing that it's easy to remove with a hairdryer. But again, maybe after 5 years there would be some fading or staining? But no - it came off too.

And that frame didn't have rack mounts, so I'd used p-clamps with electrical tape underneath to hopefully protect the paint. I took the clamps and tape came off, and the paint looked good as new.

Also pulled off my tube-and-ziptie chainstay protector to find a pristine chainstay.

So that's all good news. For a frame that's seen some pretty hard use it's still in really nice shape. And I've done all the same stuff to my other frames, so it's nice to confirm that it is indeed reversible.

I did discover 3 pairs of wear marks on my fork. One is obviously from tirerub, which is surprising because I thought I had plenty of clearance and my rims are always true. There's another set just below the crown that must be from the clip-on fender that I'd been using, which is surprising because it didn't touch the fork legs and never rattled or anything. And the third set is at the crown on the front of the fork, and I'd swear they were cablerub, except the cables aren't anywhere near there (particularly the right fork leg). It's all minor, but still strange.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

newfangled said:


> Quiet around here. No one else is tweaking things?


The usual, swapped 2 chains & 1 cassette. Cleaned 2 other drivetrains - real nice. Swapped most of the studded tires I own to their respective bikes.

This weekend I have to run a new shift cable on the fatbike, take apart the shifter on the winter commuter and try to get it interested in shifting when it is cold and maybe through the studs on the 9er.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Lizard Skins DSP bar wrap installed. I have to come to terms with the fact that I pretty much suck at wrapping bars. The ends are just a struggle for me. It is a 5 footer for sure. Hoping to let the OCD rest a bit and not redo the right side.


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## KentheKona (Jul 6, 2013)

Haven't ridden in over a week, I know I know, just certain things going on where I need to drive. Knowing I could ride this week (woo!!) I went to swap chains. Looks like I forgot to give the other chain some TLC, planned on riding the next day and handling it after that, well the darn thing was rusted solid. Oops, lesson learned about winter commuting and letting things sit too long before taking care of them.

So I swapped out chains and trashed 1. Looks like my 2 chain rotation has turned into a one chain rotation.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

My shifter overhaul seemed to be a huge success. It was not shifting in the cooler temps, for like a year. The pawl would not catch the tooth for downshifts. I took it apart alternated spraying it down with WD-40 and swabbing it out with Q-tips. I think it was old grease and grime that was getting stiff in the cold. This morning at 5°F it didn't miss a shift.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

I usually mix motor oil and some grease and just fill the shifters up like once every 2 years. I usually customize my greases this way for special purposes.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

"Fill the shifters" ??? They have little teeny tiny springs and parts. They seem happiest with no grease. I used some teflon lube last year when I tried this that was supposed to be good down to -40°F which helped some but I think I removed it all now and it is better.

These are 20 year old Deore LX trigger shifters. I'm impressed at how well they have held up.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

bedwards1000 said:


> "Fill the shifters" ??? They have little teeny tiny springs and parts. They seem happiest with no grease. I used some teflon lube last year when I tried this that was supposed to be good down to -40°F which helped some but I think I removed it all now and it is better.
> 
> These are 20 year old Deore LX trigger shifters. I'm impressed at how well they have held up.


I just fill them in one hole until it pours out of another. done. I have ran my xtr 9sp with only grease inside now for a year. Its full. I like my shifters full.
Many things inside the shifters is made out of plastic, they put it on there for lubrication purposes. I'm guessing most shifters can run completely dry for a few years, but hey why take a chance. I don't leave **** up for grabs. So I go the extra mile. It took me about a day just to lube and grease everything on my new build. I only service my bike once a year. and thats how I like it.


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## mechBgon (Jan 28, 2007)

Today I was all "hmm, I should try this can of retroreflective spray paint on something, how about... MY POGIES!" Now they have a little bit of reflectivity all over, although it's completely blown away by the iron-on reflective tape I had previously added. Well, whatever. Cheap thrills for the reflectivity junkie


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

I've never done anything to my XTR shifters except a spritz of silicone spray once on a great while. They're over 15 years old.

Measured the chain and it's time for a new one. It's at .75 after 6 months, which is a bit longer than average for me, probably because the winter grit is just getting going. It was a Connex.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

reinstalled the basket after i replaced the bracket that busted. As much as i missed it for some reason it doesnt fit like it did before. Now, even with the levers near vertical they still hit the rim of the basket..very annoying. Looking @ it i think i have some options to lower it. Ill explore um tonite.


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

Finally, the rear rack is complete-ish (still some finishing work left):








aligned nicely (the rack, not the photo):









matches the front:









ready to haul:


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ very nice. What year is the trek?


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Inspired by some of your posts and by my larger tires for Christmas, I started cutting and bending my new fenders tonight.

I coved out and steam bent the white oak for the rear. By Saturday, I'll know if I need to make a smaller form. Will post a few pics this weekend, my phone and laptop don't get along, so I have to make a point of using another camera.

Anyone else try this? Any thoughts on hardware? I was planning to steal the factory fender hardware for now, but brass would set it all off better than the current stainless.


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

newfangled said:


> ^ very nice. What year is the trek?


'87? Haven't looked at the vintage Trek site in a while.

It's a rescue frame. The stock bike sat locked at the school I go to for over a year without moving. Once a few parts disappeared I figured I'd better save it from the scrap heap.

Hands down the finest bike I own. It'll be the basis for any new frame I build myself. Next step after making racks.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Rusted: brass is very easy to work, and if you have made your own fender, you'll have no problem making brackets.

I would look at how SKS mounts their stuff, and copy it, as it would be easiest. You could even use their stays (available separately).


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Thanks wschruba, I'll look at SKS. Thanks also for the vote of confidence, I have done some brass and some steel work but nothing refined. Doing the impossible with wood is my bread and butter. If I can buy their stays, I might avoid some head scratching.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

I finished this yesterday.

Rusted: Pick up a pair of straight aviation snips and some brass stock (check sign/award making places), and practice cutting radii into them, it isn't difficult with some practice, and you'll find that it is much faster than grinding/sanding them into shape. With something as simple as fender hardware, cut all of your holes, etc _before_ you bend it into shape, you'll have much less in the way of headaches, especially where the stays pass through.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

You can get solid brass rod too that you can bend to match an SKS stay. Chances are the LBS has a single stay around somewhere saving you buying a set if you want teh steam punk look to continue past the fender brackets. I assume you can by he stay bolts and nuts separately. You can buy the front QR sockets cheap. They let the metal eyelets snap into a plastic body that bolts to the mount point and come free is something pushes between tire and fender.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

wshruba, That is an astonishing piece of work. Well done, an impressive display of tenacity and ingenuity in equal parts. Thanks for the sheet metal advice, I may try it yet.

BrianMc, thanks also. The stock fender stays terminate cleanly without antennae, and I'd like to match that, just in prettier metal. The breakaway idea is great for the front, do you know if this can be popped on and off several times or is it a one time safety feature? Either way it might be worth the cost of admission once I get my forms to cooperate.

I steamed both blanks after coving the radius of a 26x 1.75" tire, to a far greater degree of precision than I should have spent the time dialing in. Breaking them out of the forms tonight, I found that the width radius had flattened out significantly. I needed to use better/ tighter/ U- shaped wedges when I set the curve, or cut a deeper relief before bending.

Really wishing I had the forms I made up a few years ago. Tomorrow is another night in the garage. I'll get some pics of the progress, and form failures, posted on Saturday.

Thanks again for all the help on hardware and stays.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

The release nubbin for the front mount is technically reusable (in fact, they used to ship them unassembled) but the primary use is as a breakaway to keep the wheel from locking.

I believe that the draw nuts are not available separately, but let me know if you can't get them, I have a set about.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Rustedthrough said:


> The stock fender stays terminate cleanly without antennae, and I'd like to match that, just in prettier metal. The breakaway idea is great for the front, do you know if this can be popped on and off several times or is it a one time safety feature? Either way it might be worth the cost of admission once I get my forms to cooperate.


SKS Front Fender Breakaway Mount, Sold Each | Mountains Plus Outdoor Gear

They are for repeat use. Over time, the plastic grip may ease off a bit and make it easier to release the fender, but they are easily replaced when they get to that state.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I am ashamed of myself. My bike was filthy, and by filthy, I mean dirtier than Ugandan drinking water. I had ridden it a few days in this garbage mist that we have been getting. The roads were not soaking wet, but wet enough to spray. I pretty much keep the bike clean, but to be honest, I have been neglecting the drivetrain. Well, as much drivetrain as a fixed gear has. My chain? I am glad that I did not take any before pictures. I made the biggest mess that I have ever made trying to clean it. Now, there a few things that I either am not good at, haven't tried yet, and just suck at. Changing a flat is one. Drivetrain adjustment/maintenance is another. I have never taken a chain off any bike that I have ever owned. Today that changed, after a call to the shop of course because I could not figure out exactly what I was doing wrong. Once that was figured out, off it came. Gross is all I can say. The amount of grease and black crap that I have no idea where it came from or what it is, that is nasty. Soaked it in warm water with a healthy amount of Dawn. It did almost nothing. Scrubbed it with a cleaning brush and most of it came off. Oh it came off, all over my hands and the sink. The outside is finally clean, but there is still crap on the inner part of it, between the links, not sure what you call that, where it interfaces with the chainring. That one chainring....and the rear cog, wow, disgusting. Got that fully cleaned and looking almost new. Wiped down the hubs, inside the chainstay, inside the fork, removed the brake and wiped that all down, under the saddle, the entire frame, and the wheels. It is sitting on my rack right now, chain is hanging up to dry after I wiped it down fully with a microfiber cloth that is now wrecked. I feel like it needs something else to clean it with. I can't use gasoline or kerosene as I live in an apartment and this was done in my kitchen. I miss living in a house with a garage, but I don't miss my ex wife who still lives there. 

I am going to promise that it will NOT get this bad again. I will keep up on the maintenance now that I know how to do it and am comfortable enough with it.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ next time, get a degreaser (simply green or whatever) and a wide-mouth plastic bottle (like from a sports drink or vitamin water). Toss the chain in there with a couple of inches of degreaser, give it a good shake, and then let it soak for a day. Fish it out of the bottle and wash it off. And then I actually like to blowdry the chain to force any rogue water drops out of the nooks and crannies. Then oil it up.

But that being said, I've pretty much given up on thorough chaincleaning. I just keep a rag handy, and when the roads are gross I make sure to give the chain a daily wipedown. Keeping up that routine will work wonders.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

That is a pretty good idea. Will get that stuff when I go to the store. Thanks newfangled!

ETA - says I have to spread out more rep before I can give it to you again. Damnit


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Put that new chain on at .75, but still some complaining from the drivetrain. That chainsuck/lock on the middle ring. Hoping it will sort itself out after a few more rides, especially since the last time I looked, I could not find a spare compatible Shimano ring anywhere. The LBS was not enthusiastic about the performance of the Blackspire option, any opinions? I'd probably try one before giving up on the whole drivetrain.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Chain is currently marinating nicely in a bowl of Simple Green slightly diluted with some water. I totally forgot about that stuff, and it works wonders because I cleaned up a little with it, like the sink and other stuff. Thanks for the reminder newfangled.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

mtbxplorer said:


> Put that new chain on at .75, but still some complaining from the drivetrain. That chainsuck/lock on the middle ring. Hoping it will sort itself out after a few more rides, especially since the last time I looked, I could not find a spare compatible Shimano ring anywhere. The LBS was not enthusiastic about the performance of the Blackspire option, any opinions? I'd probably try one before giving up on the whole drivetrain.


What crankset is it (model/series)? I'm assuming it's your mountain bike this time of year... If so, I've put Race Face evolve rings on several customers bikes with no complaints, work well. They're typically cheap enough to do all of them in a go, which is nice.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^It's an XTR M960, which I understand was only made one year.

"The Shimano M960 XTR Crankset was unique. Its nine speed rings didn't share bolts so each ring had it's own BCD. Owning one of these beautiful cranksets is a great reason to hold off on upgrading to 10speed. But what do you do when your rings wear out? " 
Buy a whole set from... Blackspire SuperPro Chainring for M960 | Blackspire

I see Wolftooth has one now too, but it has to be run with a 10 speed chain, which they claim will work fine on a 9 speed drivetrain...
Wolf Tooth Components 102bcd Drop-Stop Chainring for Shimano XTR M960 Cranks in Tree Fort Bikes Chainrings (cat1323)


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

I may have the unpopular opinion as far as shop rats go, but why not just replace the ring with the blackspire? It isn't a perfect match, but being able to use the chainring will be far better than chainsuck. Will the shift gates line up? Nope, but we got by for many years without them. The shifting will suffer slightly, but that's about it.


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

I've run a 10 speed chain, FD and chain rings with a 9 speed rear set up before - it works perfectly fine, shifted exactly the same as with a 9 speed chain. On the unramped, pinned front rings I don't think it matters too much if front shifting is not as precise, I don't change front rings very much on my commutes.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

No major changes, but I've been constantly tweaking the new frame since I built it a few weeks ago. This week was been changing bar angle, rewrapping the bars to adjust the padding, and adjusting saddle position. And on a nice and icy 3 hour ride, today it finally felt like _my_ bike. (winter is rough time to break-in a new bike)


__
https://flic.kr/p/qcetz3


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

My 6700 ultegra will probably be needing new rings and cassette this year or next and the geeky gear freak in me (sponsered by visa) keeps whispering Di2, Di2 you know you want to in my ear. I will probably succumb to the evil little succubus at some point.


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

SimpleJon said:


> My 6700 ultegra will probably be needing new rings and cassette this year or next and the geeky gear freak in me (sponsered by visa) keeps whispering Di2, Di2 you know you want to in my ear. I will probably succumb to the evil little succubus at some point.


Not worth it at all, not even close. For race applications it's great. But on a commuter? Too much to fail so easily. And the set up on the electronic shifting is a nightmare. Sure it's nice when it works, but when it doesn't you're screwed.


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

I don't have a dedicated commuter, I either use my road bike or my hardtail MTB. I go on after work group road rides once or twice a week, where we maintain 35 to 40kmph, so it's a pretty good pace. But yep I don't really need it
Quite a few in the group have gone to Di2 over the last couple of years, I've not heard of any issues with reliability and the couple of times I've helped install and set up the 6870 group it wasn't any trickier than setting up a mechanical set up, a few more cables to deal with but trimming the derailleurs was easy.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Left the chain in that solution and this morning I removed it and rinsed it off. Looks almost brand new. I can still see a bit of gunk in there but for the most part it is pretty clean. Thanks again for the suggestion newfangled - gonna try the rag idea as well to help keep the chain in decent condition. Will probably do the other bike here this week because that one is in much better condition.


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

TenSpeed said:


> Left the chain in that solution and this morning I removed it and rinsed it off. Looks almost brand new. I can still see a bit of gunk in there but for the most part it is pretty clean. Thanks again for the suggestion newfangled - gonna try the rag idea as well to help keep the chain in decent condition. Will probably do the other bike here this week because that one is in much better condition.


Don't forget to re-lubricate the chain. Bike chain oil is penetrating and will help bring the grit out of the rollers. Apply a small drop to each roller. Spin the cranks a couple dozen revolutions, then wipe the excess lube off.

In the winter, I wipe the chain after every ride. If the chain is exceptionally dirty, I use a bit of degreaser on a rag: wipe, re-lube, wipe = happy chain.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Yep, it is currently air drying right now on the rack. Once it is completely dry, I will wipe it down again to try to remove any excess grease left over. I will then put it back on the bike and carefully lube it. Since I got the chain ring and cog completely clean, I want the chain to be as clean as possible when I put it back on.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

*Still fiddling with fenders*

I squeezed in a few hours of woodworking this weekend, many more spent on the Christmas spirit than I had anticipated.

Oak, Cherry, and Ash blanks came out all right. The hickory were the most promising until they (front and rear) split down the center while sanding. Once I get it right, I'll put up some pics of the steps and end product.


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## mechBgon (Jan 28, 2007)

rogbie said:


> Not worth it at all, not even close. For race applications it's great. But on a commuter? Too much to fail so easily. And the set up on the electronic shifting is a nightmare. Sure it's nice when it works, but when it doesn't you're screwed.


Di2 is pretty easy to set up, and has been highly reliable for my customers, including one with a very special setup:






One of its strengths is that the servos know where they're supposed to move to, and they go there like clockwork, regardless of how much crud your bike's been plastered with. Cables and housings start off working well, but with enough degradation, they start to get inaccurate.

The cables and stuff are very, very waterproof.

If the battery is running low on power, the front shifting will shut down, while the rear can manage several hundred more shifts. And the battery typically needs charging only every 1000 miles or so, and the rider can check battery level while riding by just holding a shift button for a couple seconds and looking at the indicator LED. I think the typical commuter would find it hard to strand themselves due to battery depletion.

Besides, the economy needs stimulating!  It's your patriotic DUTY to have Di2! :thumbsup:


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^Cool!

Cleaned mine up, so it is sure to be sloppy and salty on the next ride!. Also trying out some new ergon grips. Still like the ESI silicone ones I had on there, so will go back to those if these aren't comfy.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

Installed a rear rack and a cargo box i got for a christmas gift on my commuter. Should get some weight off my back


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Extreme boredom is setting in even though I am riding still. Got this crazy idea to try something, so off to the web I went. Item came a few days ago, and this is my first day off so I put it on. Had also made a return/exchange at the LBS for the second part.










This bike is not ideal for commuting, let alone drinking any water, so I had to come up with an alternative. Carrying it in my bag is fine and all, but what about when I want a drink while riding? Headed to Amazon for this: Amazon.com : Minoura SBH-80 Single Water Bottle Cage Mount for Behind Seat : Bike Water Bottle Cages : Sports & Outdoors and the LBS for this in matte black: Specialized Bicycle Components

There were several reviews on the cage mount, but almost all of them complained of losing their water bottle, it shoots out over a bump or railroad tracks, etc. I had used the Specialized Z cage in the past, and to be honest, the bottle stays put. That is what gave me the idea to try it. Tomorrow will be the maiden voyage with a full water bottle on there. If I lose it, no big deal because it is an older bottle anyway. The big black area on the bottle is just the graphic that is rubbing off.
My buddy from the shop just shot me a text back that he can order it in white with black/red accents. Done! This matte black one will look great on the Felt.










You can see that the upper part of the holder extends over the natural ridge in the bottle holding it in place. I tugged on it quite a bit and it is not going anywhere. This should be ideal for my riding style/terrain since the roads here are like a war zone and I cannot believe that I have not bent a wheel yet.

Also swapped headset spacers lowering the bars a bit and might have removed the front brake. I have not used it in a week on purpose to see how I would ride without it.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

So I was out of town for about a week visiting family. Got back, and was looking forward to an early morning trail ride when I discovered this:



__
https://flic.kr/p/qzjKb4

Just to recap, late last winter one of my two-year-old Ice Spiker Pros suddenly turned into swiss cheese:


__
https://flic.kr/p/kySPL2

Over the course of about 2 weeks 8 sidewall tears like that opened up. I sent the info to schwalbe, and they sent me a warranty replacement tire - whoo.

But now the warranty replacement tire they sent me has had a total bead failure (with maybe 1000km on it):


__
https://flic.kr/p/qzjVeF

I've still got one of my original ice spiker pros, and this winter I was worried that it would turn into swiss cheese too, so I've been keeping an close eye on it. But I really wasn't expecting that the brand new one would fail.

Time for another warranty email to schwalbe...

(and thankfully I've still got my fixie with its 6-year-old nokians that still look brand new)


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

It looks like the bead on your rim is sharp and cutting the bead of the tire. The bias ply failures, may also, come from running the tire with too little psi and in part with the sharp rim. Make sure you're staying within the min/max psi rating for the tire. 

Good luck with the warranty. For $170 those tires should not fail like that.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

Just get new nokians, even the cheap ones like the w240 wont do that. I have never liked the ice spikers.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

rogbie said:


> It looks like the bead on your rim is sharp and cutting the bead of the tire.


Yeah, no. I've already had one of these sidewalls turn to dust for no reason. As far as I'm concerned this is just more bad design or QC. And since Schwalbe had zero issues warrantying the first one, I'm anticipating the same for this one.



car bone said:


> Just get new nokians, even the cheap ones like the w240 wont do that. I have never liked the ice spikers.


When I actually wear one of these out I'll replace them with a 45nrth nicotine to get some extra width. But as long as they keep falling apart, I'm going to keep trying to get replacement from schwalbe.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

car bone said:


> Just get new nokians, even the cheap ones like the w240 wont do that. I have never liked the ice spikers.


??? For grip on ice the ice spikers beat the Nokians. They do seem a little more fragile. I've torn a few knobs off mine.

The 45North concave studs grip like glue on the fatbike. I'm not sure if that is what they use on the nicotine.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

bedwards1000 said:


> ??? For grip on ice the ice spikers beat the Nokians. They do seem a little more fragile. I've torn a few knobs off mine.
> 
> The 45North concave studs grip like glue on the fatbike. I'm not sure if that is what they use on the nicotine.


I had the regular ice spikers from 2008 to what 2012 or so and now I'm running the w240. I'd say the w240 is better both on ice (ice on pavement) and snow. And roll very significantly better on ice/snow free pavement. I'm never going back to spikers. And technically the w240 is supposed to be one notch below the ice spikers. I have also used the more high end nokians and the "low end" 160 and those pretty much beat the ice spikers too, the 160 is really good for mixed surfaces in the city and the higher end nokians would be me first and only choice for serious off road use with ice. The rubber is just better imo.

I have used studded tires for about 17 years now. In cold northern europe. When I get schwalbe i get them only because there are no other alternatives when I buy them.

I have also used some of the higher end commuter/slick/road tires from schwalbe and while they are ok and all they are not even close to the equivalents from continental. Better grip, better grip in the rain and longer life. imo of course.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

I'd agree that the Nokians roll better than the ice spikers. The rubber is also a little more like a car tire. I traded the nokian extremes for the Ice Spiker Pro Evos and they seem to grip better on icy climbs. The rubber is a little softer and they are also lighter. 

The M&G 160s are great on the road but too narrow for off-road.


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

newfangled said:


> ^ very nice. What year is the trek?


Just looked it up, it's an '88: Vintage Trek worth perusing if you have some work to avoid.

In the offer/counter-offer process of acquiring an identical one, because n+1, right?


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

bedwards1000 said:


> The 45North concave studs grip like glue on the fatbike. I'm not sure if that is what they use on the nicotine.


Now why'd you have to go and tell me that? I was perfectly happy with my skittery original Dillingers until now! They are better than no studs, but go down pretty easily.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

If your dillengers have stud pockets, well, I know what I did. They are a big confidence booster. 

You don't have to populate all of them. The center row gives a lot of grip. I liked it so much that I went back for another 100.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

*Well, yesterday actually*

Santa brought the LED Sol 48 by Lite:



As packed:



Unpacked:



Test firing:



Alternate Flash/No flash pictures of bike with Sol 48's on high steady high setting:













They use micro USB connectors. The front and rear pair are sided so that the turn signals function properly. My front pair was marled incorrectly. However the snap on and off mountings made the switch from side to side a well, snap! 

They have a high low, left and right signal, 4 way flasher and rear only in flash mode (a 'Day' setting). The turn signals fade high low is faster than the 4-way or rear only. The turn signals override the flashing modes and the other side goes solid. In rear only mode, the front turn signals do not function.

My impression is that the fronts are bright enough in the day as they are brighter than the rears.

No video yet.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Pretty cool, Brian.

So schwalbe is sending me a replacement. And it makes me wonder if I should maybe put that new-in-box Ice Spiker on craigslist, and use it as an excuse to upgrade (or maybe side-grade) to a Nicotine. They're wider which is good, but have half the studs which I'm not sure about. There's a serious lack of reviews for the nicotines, and even online they're only available a few places.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

I looked up the Nicotine and it does use the concave studs. I can't compare apples to apples because I had them on the fatbike but they do seem to bite better than the conventional ones. Not sure what their longevity will be.


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## formula4speed (Mar 25, 2013)

I finally added a secondary tail light for commuting, a Cateye Omni 3. Only $10 on Amazon and it seems like a pretty decent light, uses AAA batteries instead of USB rechargeable but if the advertised run times are anywhere near accurate one set should last me a whole season on flashing. I think it's a good compliment to my Cygolite HotShot.

Also got a Cateye Volt 100 for Christmas which will be my new helmet light, had been using a Gloworm X1 on low which was overkill. I prefer the self contained light for when I need to dig in my bag.

Now I need to dig out the reflective tape and go to town on my new rear rack. I will be mistaken for a UFO hopefully at some point.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

bedwards1000 said:


> I looked up the Nicotine and it does use the concave studs. I can't compare apples to apples because I had them on the fatbike but they do seem to bite better than the conventional ones. Not sure what their longevity will be.


Yeah, it's tough. I checked two LBS and they don't have the nicotine in stock, and with shipping and exchange I figure it would cost me $60+ more than I'd get for selling the schwalbe. I'm not the biggest fan of the ice spiker, but I may just stick with the devil I know.

And even though my big bike is currently wearing an Ardent I took it for a ride today, and had a blast. The snow condition is pretty perfect, and I may just have to take my "summer" hardtail out for a spin later this week too.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Has anyone tried these in 120 tpi studded (700x38) for a cross bike, they look pretty nice...

45NRTH

guitar ted's review 45NRTH ?Gravdal? Tires: Final Review | Gravel Grinder News

bedwards, my Dillingers are 100% studded, but with the older low profile (and not concave) studs. I haven't looked into replacement ones.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

So I'm still trying to sell my old 29er frameset (just locally, this isn't spam) and it occurred to me that its rigid fork would work fine on my 26er hardtail (axle-crown is ~10mm longer than it would be for a rigid 26er fork). I'm not sure why that never occurred to me before, because I've often thought about picking up a surly fork for that bike. So I might have to keep the fork, and knock a few bucks off the asking price for just the frame.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Vacation time means plenty of time to goof around, and so this:


__
https://flic.kr/p/pFmUGP

becomes this:


__
https://flic.kr/p/qBXzGP

The 29er fork is pretty natural with the 26er setup. And I had an old bb5 caliper lying around in the partsbin, so each fork has its own brake/housing/cable. That setup is pretty handy, because I can swap forks by just unhooking the cable at the lever and don't have to readjust anything. Now I just need to get a second crownrace, and I could do the swap in a minute or two.

But one of my forks (not sure which one) isn't aligned properly. The tire was very nicely centered in the suspension fork, and is noticeably not centered in the rigid one. Not sure what to do about that - I don't want to redish the wheel everytime I move it back and forth, and I'm too ocd to let it not be centered, so I might maybe possibly try manhandling the steel fork a bit.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

*Scotty, We need more power!*

Well I got late day, and night video. The day video was shot on the day setting with no F Stops to increase exposure and lighten the video. I am guessing that this would be like a senior with some night vision issues using sunglasses into that low sun, especially so at the end as the sun was going down. My headlights were in night mode (straight ahead). The LED SOL 48's were at about 15 degree out turn, as suggested by Lite. You can see the left turn signal just at the end of the day part. In the day, they are outshone by Hi-Vis clothing, even in shadow of a sinking sun. In the day they add a bit of visibility once the bike was a second or so from the camera (that was turned like a driver looking to the right before pulling out). If they are looking elsewhere that second, they will not be seen. About what the reflectors do at night. Day performance is poor to fair. Though they look great in static mode and so would look great in a court room. "You couldn't see this?"

The high steady state added some visibility at night in full broadside view as I coasted down the drive. UFO? Sort of thing. Both levels look OK at night but the high is a bit better for distance. No surprise there. The turn signals are visible at night from the side not so much from the front with good headlights washing things out. The rear is fine and should look good to overtaking motorists.






Hard to beat good Hi-Vis on sunny days and powerful 180+ degree head and taillights. I might rotate the fronts especially out to 30 maybe 45 degrees to get more impact on cross street drivers.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^Impressive visibility, especially in the far-away footage.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Swapped my front wheel out on the Jamis with the Felt. The American Classic wheel on there has an obvious front hub issue as something is loose. Going to take it into the shop when the open back up for the year and see what is going on. Mismatched wheels now and it is pretty obvious with one being black and the other red with big white decals. Hipster modification installed.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Oops! loaded the wrong video file!






My comments should make more sense now. Maybe.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

*Finally got the fenders mounted.*

I struggled with the hardware until the snow came back. So now the Bossanova will look good in the garage for a while.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

^ that is the first bike that has actually looked good with fenders to me. Nice work


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

^ You don't like this?


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

While that is nice, it doesn't do anything for me. Too much for me. As long as you like it that is all that matters.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

mtbxplorer said:


> bedwards, my Dillingers are 100% studded, but with the older low profile (and not concave) studs. I haven't looked into replacement ones.


Oh! We took 3 bikes out to a frozen lake this weekend. The fatbike was only studded in the center rows and had far fewer studs than the ice spikers or the nokians but it hooked up the best. I had to make sure not to lean into turns because the sides are only partially studded.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ stop trying to convince me to get a concave-studded tire, darn you. I was pretty convinced that I'd be happy with my warranty replacement icespiker.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

^Sorry, I actually like my ice spikers. You'll be fine.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ which reminds me, that the icespikers are better snow tires that I'd given them credit for. They're really only okay in fresh snow, and I assumed that was because they were mainly designed as an ice tire. 

But last week we got 5" of new snow, and I went out for a ride with an Ardent on the front. It was noticeably worse than the icespiker, and really wanted to wander, and it had a tendency to "surf" itself into washouts.

I'd always thought the Ardent (which actually looks pretty similar to the Nicotine) would be a better snow tread than the Icespiker, but I was wrong. And I'm still a bit suspicious that for a rear tire a directional tread would be better than the icespiker, but I might be wrong about that too.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

bedwards1000 said:


> Oh! We took 3 bikes out to a frozen lake this weekend. The fatbike was only studded in the center rows and had far fewer studs than the ice spikers or the nokians but it hooked up the best. I had to make sure not to lean into turns because the sides are only partially studded.


Yeah, but is the fatbike wearing the newest studs? I've found the Ice Spikers and Nokians have both gone from Wow! to OK after 1 season.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

True, yes...but
_*Concave Aluminum Carbide Studs*
Using the same two-piece construction method as the standard carbide-aluminum product, this stud features a carbide tip with a concave shape on the crown. The concave crown creates a very sharp attack angle to the surface, resulting in an unparalleled amount of traction. *Any wear that occurs to the carbide crown creates an even sharper edge* - continuously augmenting acceleration, braking and cornering performance as it ages._
Not that I am trying to talk anybody into them.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

mtbxplorer said:


> I've found the Ice Spikers and Nokians have both gone from Wow! to OK after 1 season.


My ancient mount&grounds look brandnew, but my icespikers looked pretty beaten up after only one year. And it wasn't because the studs were worn, but because they'd sunk too far into the tire.

I fixed that by taking an exacto-knife and cutting some rubber off the knobs to expose the studs a bit, and it helped a lot.

These aren't great photos but here is the tire:


__
https://flic.kr/p/pKsvnY

It's pretty tough to see, so I've highlighted the ones that I cut:








And a bit more of a closeup:


__
https://flic.kr/p/qq1Jh8

I just cut every second knob to see if it would work. For the center knobs I cut perpendicular to the tire, so that they'd work as either drive/brake depending on which way the tire was put on. I left the outer knobs alone because they're still fine. And the two offset rows I cut at a 45deg angle, alternating direction for each knob.

It really did improve both tires (before one had a sidewall disintegration), and I'd totally recommend giving it a shot.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^Thanks, I'll take a closer look at mine.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Finally cleaned one of them. Just gotta clean the other one, but didn't have time this morning.

Currently scheming to replace the bars on my road bike with a flat bar. Just need a new quill stem with a little rise, because I don't like the dropped stem on that bike. Then I'ma get the biggest cross tires I can put on the bike and I'll have a goofy looking typical ten speed road bike turned single speed flat bar commuter. Just what I need.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

Ready to rock for the non -30 weather next week!


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Interesting stop by the bike shop last night. I pulled in just around close and my mechanic buddy was there reorganizing the shop. He had a bunch of stuff out that he was getting ready for an expo in a couple of weeks. Used bike part, odds and ends, etc. I asked him if he had a quill stem, yep. A short stem and a little rise, just like I was looking for. Looked at the other parts in the bin. Brand new set of tektro caliper brakes, brake levers, brake cables, etc, etc, everything I need to convert from drop bars to flat bar except the bar and the grips. They had that and a 16t freewheel from a singlespeed bike someone had bought and ditched those parts for some they already had and wanted to transfer over. I also got a take-off saddle (some Oval saddle, definitely better than my GT saddle form the 1990's that came with my road bike and is now on my mtb) and a set of pinned platform pedals, which are heavy and purple, but only cost me $1. Also, he said they haven't sold really any folding cyclocross tires at all (not a very high demand around here) and I might be able to get an otherwise expensive set of them for around $50. 700x35 with some hefty, but not obtrusive knobs (though he seemed perplexed as to why I wanted knobs for commuting). 

All in all he sold me everything for about $50, which is good, because now I don't have to limit myself to one brake, I don't have to use old brake pads, and I can replace my old cables and saddle. So... this is going to happen sooner than expected.

Does anyone have recommendations for a flat bar that's good for single speed road bike commuting? I'm thinking cheap and aluminum, and then I'll get some ODI grips to put on it, and maybe some bar ends for if I want to get all catty and stretch out.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Salsa promoto is a pretty run of the mill flat bar. There are cheaper ones, and there are lighter, but the base model is a good value.


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## mechBgon (Jan 28, 2007)

NDD said:


> Does anyone have recommendations for a flat bar that's good for single speed road bike commuting? I'm thinking cheap and aluminum, and then I'll get some ODI grips to put on it, and maybe some bar ends for if I want to get all catty and stretch out.


If your stem uses 25.4mm bars, you might be interested in a setup like mine. I got an old Titec straight-gauge titanium handlebar from Ebay, which is the same diameter all the way across (22.2mm), and uses a shim at the center to fit 25.4mm stems.

The genius in this, is that I can put a set of bar-ends inboard of the controls, allowing a narrow hand position when I'm up to speed and want to get more aero. The faster I go, the more it helps.

Anyway, the old Titec bars came in two variants: butted 118-gram, or straight-gauge 150-gram. If you plan to use bar-ends, the straight-gauge model is the better pick since it didn't require the BERT inserts in the ends to resist crimping. Cheaper and more plentiful too.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

So it is freezing out, and I am bored out of my mind. Had a few ideas and they finally made an appearance today.

1. Minoura saddle rail water bottle cage mount. I like this a lot so far. Reviews online said that bottles tended to shoot out over bumps and rougher roads. I didn't want to have to worry about it, so I opted for a Specialized Right Zee cage in red/black/white. I tried this out a few weeks ago, and it works perfectly. Water bottle didn't budge. I have used these cages on my mountain bikes in the past and they work well. The side access makes it a bit more secure and fairly easy to get the bottle out.

2. Re-wrapped the bullhorns. I messed up a few spots when I initially put the Lizard Skin wrap on it, and finally got around to fixing it. A few gaps were hidden along the bottom of the bar and once I saw it there was no way it couldn't be fixed.

3. Red electrical tape on the bars. I am not 100% sold on this. It adds a pop, but might just be that one thing that takes it over the edge. The bike is already pretty flashy, and not sure that adding more will add to the cause.

4. Removed the front brake. I will catch some flack for this probably, but it is something that I have wanted to do for some time now but didn't have the courage to do. About a month and a half ago, I stopped using the brake all together to see if I could do it. After making some serious riding adjustments, I went 2 weeks without touching it. I left it on for another few days, and then pulled it. I did a Sunday commute to work in light traffic to see how it really was. Again, it was not needed so I am going to continue on with it off the bike. I can always add it back on if needed but I am hoping that I will not need to. Been trying to work on hop stopping instead of skidding to prevent unnecessary tire wear. Adjusting the way I ride and some slight route modifications have made this easier than I had initially thought.

5. Red stripe of electrical tape along the top lip of the water bottle. This was just done as a fun thing and I figured that there is no way that I would get it on there straight, but I did, so I am leaving it. Why not?


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

^ Really looks sharp TenSpeed. I would give you lip for the front brake removal if I didn't know how flat the Lansing area is, I wouldn't pull it even there. How does the side pull water bottle mount work for you? I have seen some bent wood versions available and have considered copying it to match my fenders. Any advantage over the old standard if not located under the saddle?


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## Ninja Turtle (Oct 3, 2014)

Got a full week in on my new lake 303's. They are pretty ugly but man do they make my toes feel wonderful.

I measured my feet using a dial caliper and went off of their sizing cart. It was a size smaller then my normal shoes which had me worried while I was waiting for them to come because almost every review I read said to go a size up from your normal size. I'm glad I went by their numbers because they fit great even with my bulkiest wool socks.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Rustedthrough said:


> ^ Really looks sharp TenSpeed. I would give you lip for the front brake removal if I didn't know how flat the Lansing area is, I wouldn't pull it even there. How does the side pull water bottle mount work for you? I have seen some bent wood versions available and have considered copying it to match my fenders. Any advantage over the old standard if not located under the saddle?


Thanks! Yeah, it is really flat here. I think we have about 14" of elevation throughout the city. For the water bottle cage, I think it is meant more for full suspension mountain bikes with a smaller area due to the rear shock. Some of the smaller bikes really don't have the room, and if they do, you cannot get the bottle in or out with a regular cage. I like it since it is quite secure once it is in there, but easy to get out. See picture below.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

TenSpeed said:


> 4. Removed the front brake. I will catch some flack for this probably


Sorry, but you deserve it.

Michigan Legislature - Section 257.662



> (2) A bicycle shall be equipped with a brake which will enable the operator to make the braked wheels skid on dry, level, clean pavement.


I wouldn't want to have to explain that "My legs are just like a brake, and no I'm not an irresponsible jackass" to the courts or an insurance company.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

newfangled said:


> Sorry, but you deserve it.
> 
> Michigan Legislature - Section 257.662
> 
> ...


Yep, that is exactly how a fixed gear works. You stop pedaling, and skid. To me that is clear as day. A front brake does not make my bike skid, which it needs to, according to the "law". The front brake only slows me down when it is pressed, right?


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Newfangled, thanks for the link. I will have words with my LBS over pedals without reflectors. Not that any of this is enforced. As for meeting the letter of the law, Tenspeed has it assuming his rear wheel can be made to skid, being the braked wheel. If this were not adequate legally, all of the cruiser/ hipster bikes and the cheap bmx types would be illegal around here.

I have already ordered some planet bike blinkies and a bell for my yet to arrive Unit. I will be one of two law abiding cyclists in my neighborhood, the other guy has sense enough to wait for Spring.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

TenSpeed said:


> Yep, that is exactly how a fixed gear works. You stop pedaling, and skid. To me that is clear as day. A front brake does not make my bike skid, which it needs to, according to the "law". The front brake only slows me down when it is pressed, right?


The word "equipped" isn't in there just for funzies. Your bike is not equipped with a brake. Talk to a lawyer if you want, but you are breaking the law because of fashion.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

That isn't the only rule I am breaking. I run clipless. There are no reflectors on there. Legally, they should not be sold here, according to the law.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

TenSpeed said:


> That isn't the only rule I am breaking. I run clipless. There are no reflectors on there. Legally, they should not be sold here, according to the law.


Bikes must be sold with pedals and spoke reflectors, and "Sold" also isn't just in there for funzies. After a bike has been sold the law does not require it to have those reflectors, the way the law does require all bikes to be equipped with a brake. One clause is for retailers/manufacturers, and the other is for operators.

"Seatbelts crease my clothes. If I get into an accident I'll just brace myself. And don't you know that seatbelts hurt more people than they save?"

Brakeless is the same stupid bs.

There are plenty of people on this forum who've had to deal with the police or insurance. Just because you think you're invincible and that it will never happen to you, cutting your braking effectiveness in half (more than half) and breaking the law is a jackass move. Running just a coaster brake on a fast bike wasn't the greatest idea, but at least it wasn't also breaking the law.

Sorry, but you said you were going to get some flak for this, and I'm just making sure that you do.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

mechBgon said:


> If your stem uses 25.4mm bars, you might be interested in a setup like mine. I got an old Titec straight-gauge titanium handlebar from Ebay, which is the same diameter all the way across (22.2mm), and uses a shim at the center to fit 25.4mm stems.
> 
> The genius in this, is that I can put a set of bar-ends inboard of the controls, allowing a narrow hand position when I'm up to speed and want to get more aero. The faster I go, the more it helps.
> 
> Anyway, the old Titec bars came in two variants: butted 118-gram, or straight-gauge 150-gram. If you plan to use bar-ends, the straight-gauge model is the better pick since it didn't require the BERT inserts in the ends to resist crimping. Cheaper and more plentiful too.


Hmm... I'll look into that. Might see if I can't get some deal somewhere. Nothing on ebay, except a butted version. Thanks for bringing that up.

Also I may just fine anything I can get cheap, or spends a bit more for something not alloy.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

newfangled said:


> Bikes must be sold with pedals and spoke reflectors, and "Sold" also isn't just in there for funzies. After a bike has been sold the law does not require it to have those reflectors, the way the law does require all bikes to be equipped with a brake. One clause is for retailers/manufacturers, and the other is for operators.
> 
> "Seatbelts crease my clothes. If I get into an accident I'll just brace myself. And don't you know that seatbelts hurt more people than they save?"
> 
> ...


I never said that I am invincible. I understand that there is great risk in doing this, and I am willing to accept the responsibility of it. I also know that I am going to get grief over it, and that won't bother me either. I am running a special vBulletin add on thick skin required for it. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and you are simply stating yours, completely understood.

Also, I am curious how a coaster brake would differ here? To be honest, it had worse stopping power than the fixed gear does. I think that it gave me a false sense of security when I had one. Either way, pedaling backwards stopped the bike.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

TenSpeed said:


> Also, I am curious how a coaster brake would differ here?


One is illegal and one isn't.

I sure hope that you're not going to keep whining about all of the people who use your bike-only paths and park in your bikelanes. Neither of those would be state laws, and the campus pathways probably aren't an actual law of any kind. If you're going to willfully disregard the law then you'd better accept that everyone else can choose to be a jackass too.


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## jmmUT (Sep 15, 2008)

I'm siding with TenSpeed. From everything I've heard, including the interpretation of the law in my city, riding fixed does qualify as having a braking mechanism, just like a coaster brake (hopefully with a more skilled rider on it). 

Whether they should or not is another story.

So the only type of rider that is breaking the brake law are the street BMXers who ride brakeless and use their shoe soles to slow down.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

So it is a bit warmer out, but now snowing, and again, I am bored out of my mind. Worked on the Felt today and am nearly done.

1. XLAB Delta 100 saddle rail bottle cage mount. This is quite the contraption in comparison to the Minoura I mounted on the Jamis. It comes with a bottle cage, but that was already put to the side to opt for a Specialized Right Zee cage in matte black. After using it on the other bike, I know that this is the right choice. Might have to order another mount like this for the Jamis though, as I really like how solid it is on there. I had to alter the mounting hardware of the cage as the bolts that came with it are for the Delta cage. Luckily the regular bolts and nuts worked really well so I used those.

2. Reassembled the bike after a much needed drivetrain cleaning. The chain is almost like new again, and just needs to be lubed up before I ride it. Pedals are off the bike and are currently on the fat bike. They are just some Exustars (SPD knockoffs) and will be replaced with another set of Shimano M520's sometime before spring.

3. Fixed bar tape. Was bugging me since it was not even due to the brake handle.

4. Removed front brake.



















Currently looking for a matching bullhorn bar like the Jamis that is 31.8. I always said that I would never put Bontrager stuff on any of my bikes, and up until the bullhorns, I never did. I love them though, and damnit, I will get another pair along with a new stem. Also have my eye on a new front wheel, but we will see what happens with that. If it falls through, I will just Plasti-Dip the front wheel to cover the brake track.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

TenSpeed said:


> 4. Removed the front brake. I will catch some flack for this probably, but it is something that I have wanted to do for some time now but didn't have the courage to do. About a month and a half ago, I stopped using the brake all together to see if I could do it. After making some serious riding adjustments, I went 2 weeks without touching it. I left it on for another few days, and then pulled it. I did a Sunday commute to work in light traffic to see how it really was. Again, it was not needed so I am going to continue on with it off the bike. I can always add it back on if needed but I am hoping that I will not need to. Been trying to work on hop stopping instead of skidding to prevent unnecessary tire wear. Adjusting the way I ride and some slight route modifications have made this easier than I had initially thought.


Seems like a high risk:benefit ratio to me. The benefit is cosmetic (??), and the risk is accident/injury in an emergency. I use my brakes all the time, but only rarely in emergency mode. I don't think successful riding without the brake for a few weeks is a good way to judge it's necessity.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

mtbxplorer said:


> Seems like a high risk:benefit ratio to me. The benefit is cosmetic (??), and the risk is accident/injury in an emergency. I use my brakes all the time, but only rarely in emergency mode. I don't think successful riding without the brake for a few weeks is a good way to judge it's necessity.


I agree with this. What is there to lose by having a back up for an emergency or even an honest mistake?


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Found the matching bullhorn bar on sale at the Trek store online, MFG Overstock - Bontrager Race Bullhorn Handlebar - Handlebars - MFG Overstock -Trek Store and got a sweet deal on it, so that was purchased. Think I found the new stem as well on eBay.

Both bikes are equipped with stopping ability as they are fixed gear.


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## formula4speed (Mar 25, 2013)

TenSpeed said:


> Found the matching bullhorn bar on sale at the Trek store online, MFG Overstock - Bontrager Race Bullhorn Handlebar - Handlebars - MFG Overstock -Trek Store and got a sweet deal on it, so that was purchased. Think I found the new stem as well on eBay.
> 
> Both bikes are equipped with stopping ability as they are fixed gear.


Just out of curiosity, do you mount lights on your bike or do you attach them to your person? Fixed gears are clean looking, but I'm okay with my plain old single speeds and mounting all sorts of stuff on them.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Lights are always mounted on the bike itself when I am riding. I don't run a headlight during the day but I do run a bright blinker on the rear. At night, both lights are secured to the bike itself. I sometimes will run a secondary blinker on my bag but have found that it doesn't stay where I want it to unfortunately.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Ordered a new flat bar. Went on the budget side, and we'll see if I regret that. It's alloy, it's white, it's 480mm long, and it was like ten bucks on ebay with free shipping. Not expecting much except flat.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Funny that you mention it. Currently running a flat bar on my fat bike, and it is coming back off and a wider riser bar is going back on and I will eventually get some bar ends for it. I think that I am going to wrap the bars with bar tape instead of running standard grips, possibly two layers if I have enough from a spare set of bullhorns.


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

My old mountain bike now has drop bars and bar end shifters on it. Should be fun to learn to use yet another weird shifting device


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

So my newish frame has an eccentric bottom bracket, and since I'm running gears for the winter it doesn't really matter how I set it up. So initially I put it at it's very lowest, just to see how low that actually was. 

But as I've been fine-tuning things I figured that ultimately I'll want it high (to avoid pedal-strikes) and back (for a shorter effective chainstay). So two weeks ago I moved it to about the 10 o'clock position, if you're looking at it from the driveside. That will change a bit based on ss chainlength, but for now it should be close enough.

But yesterday I noticed that the new position puts my granny gear insanely close to the chainstay. Whoops. So I pulled the crank off, and thankfully I hadn't chewed up or even scratched the frame, even though there was barely a gap there.

I had been using a 26t "granny" that I manually shift down to if there is a big snowfall. But that's now been swapped for an old 22t which gives plenty of room.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Won an eBay auction. Pics will follow.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Lubed my chain and a new rear Gatorskin 23mm. Having some pain from the saddle that I've put a good 3500 miles with little problem. I'm not sure if it's something from having no saddle time since November or if my fit has changed from the accident. Playing it by ear, but I'm in the market for a new one.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

^ love my Gatorskins. Did you wear through it or just felt like replacing it? Good luck with the saddle, not having the right one can be a pain in the ass.


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

The bar ends are way easier to adjust to than I expected. Maybe because the bar extensions on the midge are pretty stubby? I love this setup though.

IMG_20150115_074731178_HDR.jpg


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

TenSpeed said:


> ^ love my Gatorskins. Did you wear through it or just felt like replacing it? Good luck with the saddle, not having the right one can be a pain in the ass.


That's what I've run on the rear for about a year. It was time to replace. I'd worn a flat spot through the belt, and had a puncture from the steel belt of a tire. As I was changing the tube and inspecting the tire, I found several cuts, gouges, and the like. Run a 4000 on the front and I've never had a problem with flatting, and it gives great performance.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

Finally finished my commuter! It began life as Giant Nutra Cross, a budget flatbar hybrid circa 1993ish, that lived a simple life as an around the neighborhood bike for a father of 4. It was donated to the local bike co-op that I volunteer at in April of this year, at which point I purchased it to turn into my daily commuter. I tried it a few times but didn't like the upright position so I made plans to convert it into a drop bar commuter, using spare parts from the co-op wherever possible. However, instead of working on it dilligently and getting it back on the road I just picked other bikes from my stable instead, most often commuting on my road bike especially as the seasons changed and the weather got nicer. 

After my cables froze on my mountain bike yesterday I decided that I needed to finish my commuter and save my nicer bikes for races and recreational rides and let the second hand commuter do what it was meant to do. I couldn't get the old 105 STIs that I picked up from the coop to work with the existing 7 speed rear derailleur, so I wound up just using the 105s as standard brake levers and used the friction thumbie shifter that used to work the front derailleur when it was a flatbar as the rear shifter. Worked like a charm. I'll post a pic tomorrow of the before and after.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

AlexCuse said:


> The bar ends are way easier to adjust to than I expected. Maybe because the bar extensions on the midge are pretty stubby? I love this setup though.


Are you spending most of your time on the hoods? I've got a midge on my fixie, and I'm always impressed with comfy the hoods are (after originally planning to use it as a dirtdrop on a different bike).


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Kleebs, I've got to see this thing!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Bontrager Race Aero 42cm bullhorns came in the mail today. Deda Elementi 2014 Zero1 stem ordered last night from eBay. Both are going on the Felt to replace the generic stem and 25.4 bullhorns on there. Stem is the same rise/length as the Ritchey on the Jamis, and the bars are identical. Will wrap them with the same tape to make things very similar. The other item will be posted when it comes and I get it on the bike. Will be stopping in at the shop tomorrow to pick something up in anticipation of its arrival.


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

newfangled said:


> Are you spending most of your time on the hoods? I've got a midge on my fixie, and I'm always impressed with comfy the hoods are (after originally planning to use it as a dirtdrop on a different bike).


I ride in the drops primarily but they really did nail the angle on the hoods for this bar - other "dirt drops" I've used have kept my wrists in an awkward position on the hoods. I may try to lower it a bit and spend more time on the hoods, assuming I can find a spot where the drops still feel good. Even the flats are actually pretty usable. Its a fantastically designed bar, I'm glad I was able to get one in 25.4 even if it is white


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I just wish the Midge's extensions were longer. I've got a woodchipper as my real dirtdrop bar, and the drops don't feel nearly as "right" as the midge, but I sure do love the extensions for ss.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Big day for me today and the fat bike. Made a few changes in hopes that it will get me excited about riding it.

1. Riser bar from my 2010 Specialized Stumjumper FSR that I still had. Wider than the flat bar that I had swapped on. I will need the rise of it...
2. Deda ZERO100 120mm stem, -8° rise. Hoping that this will stretch me out a little and make the bike feel less like a fat tire beach cruiser and more aggressive.
3. Adjusted the saddle distance from the bars, moved it in a little closer. Realized that the saddle was way back, and on a setback post, this could be huge. 
4. Gave it a halfway decent wipe down, wiped the chain down and relubed it, although that was a waste of time as I will be riding it to work tomorrow in the mess that is left of the melting snow, with a high of 36° and sunny.

I will try anything to get this bike to feel more like it should and less like a cruiser. Stem might be a bit too aggressive but I have others to try if it doesn't work. Have not ridden since I twisted my back, which happens to still hurt when I am on my feet too long.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Swapped my Specialized Roman Evo 155 saddle with a WTB Pure V that I had lying around. I'd given that saddle a shot for just a few miles months ago and decided against it. But, I guess my shape has changed since the accident and lack of riding, because I spent 20 hard miles on it today over rough roads and don't have a single complaint.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Put my new saddle on!!! And got the new bars on. Found out the new stem I got was slightly too big to fit. It was a 1-1/4 quill stem when I needed a 1 inch. Blargh. The bars fit on the old stem, though, but at its highest, it's still a bit low which is why I wanted the riser stem anyway...

More so, I neglected to realize that the brake levers I got are 24mm outside dimension and I won't be able to fit them on my straight, non butted 25.4mm bar...

I need grips and bar ends still, and am waiting to get the brakes levers on to even mount the new brakes. Which gave me an idea: what if I can mount the brake levers on the bar ends. Is that a thing? Is there some great flaw in doing this, other than it'll look goofy? It already looks odd to me without drop bars, though i know I'll like it with the short flat bar with bar ends anyway. 

Ooh yeah, got my 16t freewheel installed with no problems!!! Go me.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Did this to my road shoes. I hated the pedals/cleats, but liked the shoes. I thought this setup gave me the best of both worlds. Definitely something I'm keeping, and I'm finally getting a use out of the shoes I felt bad about having lying around.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Are the cleats set too far back?


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Nope. Right where I like 'em. I feel like I'm pedaling with my whole foot rather than just my toes, and they're not so far back as to remove the ankle like the midfoot cleat position.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

*New bike with a cheap rack*

Got a skewer mount rack mounted on the Unit. Still waiting for some fenders to come in, or the time to build some up, today's slush was a bit much. While the big studded Nicotines grip and growl like an angry bear, they are equally hard to get out of hibernation.

I'm still on the fence with the single speed business, but, I'll give an honest two weeks before I decide to do anything about it.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Do any of y'all know of any brake levers with a 25.4mm clamp size. I need to either get that or a new handlebar I think.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

This came in the mail yesterday. I am happy and bummed at the same time. It is beautiful, and will match nicely. It is, however, not the color that I ordered. I found a matte black version with dark grey decals that ultimately made me decide to get it. First world problems in the bike world right? I think that I am going to keep it, and not go through the hassle of paying to ship it back, and waiting on a refund only to have to buy it or go through the exchange process.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

NDD said:


> Do any of y'all know of any brake levers with a 25.4mm clamp size. I need to either get that or a new handlebar I think.


I know your pain right now. Bar is 25.4. Brake lever clamps are 26. They don't fit. I went through this unfortunately. Even with a shim they will be all wonky.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

I'm thinking about just getting another bar and selling this one for like five bucks. Only paid about ten for it. Maybe if I can find another quill stem with 1" quill and some rise. I just forget how these things are all barely not compatible. My fault really. 

But yeah, I'll figure something out.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I got lucky and had a lever that I could use when this happened to me. I had to stick with the bar that I had though, which was a bummer. I am rectifying this though by moving to all 31.8 stuff. Been slowly doing it over the last 6 months. I will have to get another brake lever if I decide to go back to a front brake on my Felt. That will be the last piece.

How wide of a bar are you looking for?


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Width isn't the biggest issue to me. The one I got was 480mm wide. I kinda like that range for the commuter, could always shorten a longer one. 

The problem is that my options are kinda limited as far as quill stems go, especially wanting a riser stem that has to be 1" quill. So... I dunno, maybe I'll just keep using my stem I have and get a bar with a little rise to compensate for how low the stem is gonna be. And bar ends and all that.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

What about using a quill stem adapter that allows you to use 1 1/8 stems and spacers on a fork/headset that uses old school quill stems.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> What about using a quill stem adapter that allows you to use 1 1/8 stems and spacers on a fork/headset that uses old school quill stems.


Hmm. Maybe, I've never heard anything good about them, but at this point I'm keeping my options open.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ an adapter doesn't sound like it really solves you current problem, but if you want to go that route I've had good success with mine.

My biggest "complaint" is that they look funky, so I hide mine behind spacers:



__
https://flic.kr/p/oDYyUM

The quill adapter is as narrow as a quill stem (22.2mm) which looks weird with a modern stem and (in my case) 31.8 bar. So I stick some 1" spacers in there and press down on them to hold them in place.

I've used it with two frames and a couple of different stems and bars, and it's good.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

It would make it easier to find the stem I want. That'd be good. Might get as NOS quill from ebay. Saw some Kalloy brand stems that looked crumby and utilitarian that have the design features I'm looking for. In that case I'd just get a new 25.4 mtb bar and trim it if I need. Then I think I'd be set. 

Really the only reason I'm doing this is because I found my drop bars to be uncomfortable and didn't like that breaking position. I much prefer flat bar for the hands. Oh well, I'm learning a lot about bikes and the things one needs to check before trying to "fix" old ones. That's why this is a hobby of mine.

But the transition from 27"wheels with 10 speed gearing to 700 with single speed went so smoothly... Can't win them all.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

You can get high rise quill stems. It sounds like you want the cheap Kallor to determine much how height and reach you need.

This might be an option:

Nitto Dirt Drop 26.0 (8cm or 10cm)

Or maybe this one:

Nitto Dead Stock stem, 25.4mm - 11cm - 16246


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

NDD, you might try something like this.

I don't necessarily know if it will work for your application, but there is stuff out there.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

Finally got the XO twist grips all sorted out...

I like the simplicity of them, they are lighter, and shifting is just fine...

Still gotta play with the brake lever location...but I won't fuss with that till I am back to wering gloves rather than mitts.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

jeffscott said:


> Finally got the XO twist grips all sorted out...
> 
> I like the simplicity of them, they are lighter, and shifting is just fine...
> 
> Still gotta play with the brake lever location...but I won't fuss with that till I am back to wering gloves rather than mitts.


Not sure if you are aware of the trim on the front derailleur shifter. Give it a shot if you haven't already.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

*Solutions to problems: How convenient.*

I've got the perfect solution to my problem. There is a bike expo going on this coming Sunday with a parts sale/swap. I can almost assuredly get the parts I need _and_ get rid of a bunch of spare parts I don't need anymore anyway (two old wheelsets, the derailleur from the road bike, a pair of old center pull brakes, some tires I cant use anymore now that the road bike is set up for 700c and not 27", and those handlebars I mistakenly bought, and both quill stems that I can't use/don't want). That said, I wouldn't expect to get much of anything for that, but as long as I can get enough for the right quill and bar combo and maybe some grips and bar ends, I'm all set.

I think I'll make a "what's a fair price" thread... because I don't know.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

TenSpeed said:


> Not sure if you are aware of the trim on the front derailleur shifter. Give it a shot if you haven't already.


Its got the cable tension adjuster....didn't even have to adjust the cable tension..just pulled the cable tight and did up the nut on the derailer

Not sure what you are taking about...didnt say anything elese in the distructions.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

When riding, if you are getting some chain rub on the front derailleur, slightly twist the front shifter, and it will micro shift, eliminating the chain rub.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

TenSpeed said:


> When riding, if you are getting some chain rub on the front derailleur, slightly twist the front shifter, and it will micro shift, eliminating the chain rub.


Yeah I dont think the XO has that certainly most twist shifters do?


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

If anything, the X0 will have that. Give it a shot when you ride.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

TenSpeed said:


> If anything, the X0 will have that. Give it a shot when you ride.


nope xo does not have that feature.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Added a mucky nutz fender I made myself.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

jeffscott said:


> nope xo does not have that feature.


It looks like they have removed it. The old shifters had it. I wonder why they changed?


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## in2theforest (Sep 11, 2011)

How do you like the grips?


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

in2theforest said:


> How do you like the grips?


I was running some grips that look like ergons but were just slip ons...So they were quite fat...

These grips are normal size so I am noticing a little bit more pressure but nothing I wont adapt to.

You can change the grips to anything you want....but they would have to be cut to make it all work.


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

newfangled said:


> ^ I just wish the Midge's extensions were longer. I've got a woodchipper as my real dirtdrop bar, and the drops don't feel nearly as "right" as the midge, but I sure do love the extensions for ss.


Agreed, though I think the angle of the extensions on the chipper might be what makes the drops kinda awkward (and also what makes the extensions so great for SS-ing). I kind of wanted to find a pair of 31.8 midges for cross bike (I have wood chippers for SS mode and use a normal road bar for geared) but I think I need to chill out with the bar swaps for a while.

Last time I rode my fatbike to work I was getting pretty frustrated with having to wear a backpack so I got this thing. Seems pretty cool - should help with the short-lived rack envy I often feel on bikes other than my commuter. I doubt its even half full in the picture (has my ridiculously full tool kit, a pump, a fat tube, my thermos mug and a 700c tube I was carrying for someone else in it).

IMG_20150117_142916769_HDR.jpg

Sadly I discovered at the trailhead that I can't use my bigger water bottles or my thermos mug in the bottle cage on the seat tube, so I had to move it over onto the fork. I actually kind of like that setup better for cruising, but significantly less once I need to get over logs and stuff. Next time I'll try to remember a smaller water bottle, or go back to my camelback


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ what's the bag?



AlexCuse said:


> Agreed, though I think the angle of the extensions on the chipper might be what makes the drops kinda awkward (and also what makes the extensions so great for SS-ing). I kind of wanted to find a pair of 31.8 midges for cross bike (I have wood chippers for SS mode and use a normal road bar for geared) but I think I need to chill out with the bar swaps for a while.


I've just recently started running my woodchipper with the levers facing almost straight ahead, instead of angled inline with the extensions. And I think that improves the drops quite a bit. I used to sortof have to stretch around to the front to reach lever, which meant I was always riding in kindof a bear-hug. But with the levers aimed forward my elbows get tucked in a bit, and I can rest on my palms more. It seems like an improvement.



AlexCuse said:


> I think I need to chill out with the bar swaps for a while.


Did you hear that pactbikes (new company from ex-on one/ragley alumni) are bringing back the Luxy?

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/555001355157655552
I'm a little excited.


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

newfangled said:


> Did you hear that pactbikes (new company from ex-on one/carnegie alumni) are bringing back the Luxy?
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/555001355157655552
> I'm a little excited.


Just what I needed to hear  I think the luxy was too shallow for my cross bike but it might be very fun to try on my ss 29er.

The bag is a Blackburn "outpost" - I had a gift certificate to Bike Tires Direct that was burning a hole in my pocket and it seemed "close enough" to the revelate bags for my purpose (and budget). It is probably good enough, but those revelate bags do look even nicer (and can hold considerably more). I was really impressed with how little I noticed it off-road though. It may have hit my thighs a few times but the bike felt perfectly balanced with it swinging around back there. It may have actually made it more stable, but without making handling feel sluggish. And I haven't done any mountain biking in several years without a camelback + everything I'd need to get out of the woods on my back. Getting that weight off my back without losing the sense of security that a well stocked tool kit gives was probably worth the price of admission on its own. The design seems weird at first (its basically a harness that holds a drybag) but works very well. Bike Tires Direct has some good pictures on their site - better than Blackburn I think https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/blackburn-outpost-seat-pack.

I'll probably eventually look at the revelate bags if I want to do any serious bike camping but for the kind of riding I do now (8-10 hrs tops) it is great.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ knowing how ungraceful some of my winter dismounts are, when I see all these fatbikes with big seatpacks I wonder how people avoid destroying them? It's interesting to know that you don't really notice it offroad, because that was the other thing I'd wondered about.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

newfangled said:


> ^ knowing how ungraceful some of my winter dismounts are, when I see all these fatbikes with big seatpacks I wonder how people avoid destroying them? It's interesting to know that you don't really notice it offroad, because that was the other thing I'd wondered about.


I gave up years ago on anything sticking off of the bike...cause eventually I just destroy them


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Warranty replacement studded tire arrived yesterday, and not a moment too soon. Temperatures have bouncing between the mid-40s and mid-teens, and parts of my commute this morning were glacial.


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

newfangled said:


> ^ knowing how ungraceful some of my winter dismounts are, when I see all these fatbikes with big seatpacks I wonder how people avoid destroying them? It's interesting to know that you don't really notice it offroad, because that was the other thing I'd wondered about.


I assume that is why they don't recommend using it with a carbon seatpost. But that seatpost weighs the same or more than most of the alloy posts I had available so I reckon its a good bit stronger. I usually end up going down with the bike anyway 

In all seriousness there is enough give in the setup that I don't think you'd be able to destroy it.


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## formula4speed (Mar 25, 2013)

It's snowing pretty good outside so I made a cardboard fender for my rear rack in the warehouse out of a Staples box and some packing tape for the ride home. Does that count?

I really need to settle on what fenders to buy.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I spent a good part of my day off at the bike shop, learning. Winter in Michigan means super slow days at the shops, and this was no exception. Since they have a customer specific repair stand and all the tools anyone needs, I opted to take everything there and just do it there. The shop really does not have a good place to take a picture of a bike, and since it is/was snowing out, taking it outside wasn't gonna happen.










The biggest thing is that front wheel. It is not exactly an ideal commuter wheel, and will more than likely not be used as such. I call it my "tax return present that should have cost me more, but was a total score from eBay". We had some issues getting things just right. An 80mm tube barely fits. I have to have an adapter with me at all times just in case, because my Presta only pump simply will not get a good seal on it to pump it up. I also need to get a different pump. Lesson learned right there, but that is alright. I learned about tubes and tires, and how to change them properly and quickly. That is my biggest thing, I hate hate hate changing tubes. I learned about the proper way to tension the chain on a singlespeed/fixed gear, and what to look for as far as it being either too tight or too loose. Rear Gatorskin rotated to the front, and a brand new one put on the back. The tire is showing some mileage, and is actually no longer rounded. My buddy said that once it is on the front, some of that will even out.

New Deda Elementi Zero 1 stem installed along with new Bontrager Race aluminum bullhorn bars. These are the same bars I have on the Jamis and I love them. Trek's online store had them massively on sale so there was no way I could pass them up. Stock saddle put back on the bike again, along with the Delta saddle water bottle mount that I had before. Lizard Skin bar tape was removed from the old bars and redone by me. I finally got the bullhorn wrapping pretty down pat. This is by far my best attempt at it with an approval from my buddy whose wrap could easily pass for factory.

So now the wait for clear weather and dry roads begins. I am very happy with how it turned out. The wheel dropped almost exactly 1 pound off the bike, and since it is rolling mass, I should be able to feel it. The bike is 17 lbs, 8 oz as pictured without pedals. Also pictured is my clean drivetrain. Thanks to whomever suggested the Simple Green soak. I have forgotten who that was, but thanks!


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> Kleebs, I've got to see this thing!


I'm a bit late, but here she is! I couldn't find a picture of the bike as I bought. The first picture is from just a few weeks after I bought it at which point I had installed the fenders and rack and switched out the high rise quill stem to something lower. The second is from my garage before I set out this morning. I don't normally have a floor pump bungied to the rack/top tube, but our office basketball was tragically low on air and _someone_ needed to fix it.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Lol! That thing looks great. I commonly see those who ride due to extreme financial desperation or loss of license carrying floor pumps.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

I had to be very careful when I stepped off the pedals at stop lights.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

No kidding. I think a flat basketball at work would have been the least of your problems.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I had some extra bar tape so I taped the gap on my fat bike. From the light mounts which are next to the stem over to the controls. The added hand position will be nice for the remainder of winter while I ride this bike.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Went to a few bike shops over in another city an hour or so away today. You never know what you will find there, right?










All I can say is that they remind me of Mad Max, so that is the official name of the bike. I was calling it the fat white pig, slow poke, fat *ss, slower than sh.... etc. I also swapped back to the 90mm stem and flipped it. The 120 was just too much, and my wrists were both starting to hurt. This should alleviate most if not all of that, hopefully. Oh, the bar ends are from Origin8, and they were only $14.99 which I think was well spent. Unfortunately I had to redo the cockpit, but I got it pretty squared away I think. Had to remove some of the tape to slide everything inward. Test ride to work is Sunday. Forecast is for some light snow.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Slightly upgraded the tupperware fender. This works better as it covers more. The staining and finishing will have to wait for a few days.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Parts are in, the Unit goes under the knife tomorrow to go 1x9 for the rest of the winter. Wish me luck.

In other news, I ordered a Donkey Boxx for it. This new thing will be much lighter than my Wald basket or my Thule panniers, and fairly weathertight. Anyone try one of these yet?


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I'm an SSer at heart, but 1x is definitely the way to go for a winterbike. I'm counting down until ~april1 when my gryphon will finally be freed of its gears.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Well I took the Jamis to my buddies shop for a diagnosis. Turns out everything is OK. Apparently the expander inside the steerer tube somehow was missing a key piece. Since the steerer tube is carbon, there is no star nut. This acts like one, but what happened is that since the piece was missing, it worked its way loose, and essentially fell apart inside the tube. Got that straightened out and fixed up properly. He took the entire headset apart and greased everything and he got it locked up correctly. I shouldn't have any more issues. We did notice that the Ritchey stem was causing a bit of damage to the steerer tube, so I took it off and sanded it several times carefully. That is not easy to do with the potential of ruining the finish of it. I had to sand the inner part where it extends to the bars. After that, I gave the bike a pretty good cleaning using Pedro's Bike Lust cleaner - http://pedros.com/products/clean-and-lube/degreasers-andcleaners/bike-lust/ and I liked it so much that I ended up buying a bottle of it and some Tri-Flow for the chain. I try to support the shop as much as I can so I pick my stuff up from them. He let me try their bottle first, and this stuff is really nice. Cleaned the bike up really nicely.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

I used to be a bike lust user, and it does work, but if you get a chance, Progold makes a bike wash (called bike wash, carbon safe) that eats through crap like nothing I've ever seen, short of brake cleaner. Works wonders for removing tar from the customers' road bikes. Nice fresh scent, too (sidebar, the MSDS for Kroil, a corrosion inhibitor/penetrating fluid has my favorite description of a chemical: "Slightly reddish liquid with a refreshing odor packaged as an aerosol").

I added some nosed liner sections to my rear brake housing, no more rubbing on the brake arm or the tangle bag, and a nice, smooth lever feel improvement, to boot :thumbsup:

On a related note, I bought Cane Creek Direct Vs to replace the Single Digits I had on there, and I can't say enough good things about them. Makes mounting a rear rack interesting, since the stays on my EX1 run right through the housing path, but so far, it's holding up just fine.


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

TenSpeed said:


> Well I took the Jamis to my buddies shop for a diagnosis. Turns out everything is OK. Apparently the expander inside the steerer tube somehow was missing a key piece. Since the steerer tube is carbon, there is no star nut. This acts like one, but what happened is that since the piece was missing, it worked its way loose, and essentially fell apart inside the tube. Got that straightened out and fixed up properly. He took the entire headset apart and greased everything and he got it locked up correctly. I shouldn't have any more issues. We did notice that the Ritchey stem was causing a bit of damage to the steerer tube, so I took it off and sanded it several times carefully. That is not easy to do with the potential of ruining the finish of it. I had to sand the inner part where it extends to the bars. After that, I gave the bike a pretty good cleaning using Pedro's Bike Lust cleaner - http://pedros.com/products/clean-and-lube/degreasers-andcleaners/bike-lust/ and I liked it so much that I ended up buying a bottle of it and some Tri-Flow for the chain. I try to support the shop as much as I can so I pick my stuff up from them. He let me try their bottle first, and this stuff is really nice. Cleaned the bike up really nicely.


That Bike Lust is just spiffy! Seriously, could polish a turd with that stuff. Didn't think about the carbon fork, glad everything worked out for you. Good work on that stem, too. Tolerances can be out on new parts and any scratch through a carbon weave can end catastrophically!

On to new bike stuff: Just about to finish a new front rack for a light touring rig, a 1988 Trek 400L I picked up to steal the wheelset from. The plan is to update the components (no one wants Biopace, ick. Though, oval rings are coming back), add custom stainless racks and sell it for a nice profit--to fund my rack making endeavors.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

The Unit is now a nine speed hill climbing monster. My excuses are gone. 

The LBS tinkered with the mount for my Axiom universal fit front fender for quite a while today, including clever stuff like adding a star nut to hold it up and a spacer tube. When all was perfect, a little bit of plastic failed; it nearly ended in tears. Wood butcher that I am, I took their concept and ran with it, turned a wooden spacer, chucked the clip on stuff and bolted it up. If not of the inventiveness of the guys and gals at the LBS, I would still be scratching my head on Thursday.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

^ glad to see that you got it worked out. What bike shop do you go to in the 'zoo?


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Pedal is our local with great service and bikes. Alfred E. Bike is down the street and carries all sorts of gizmos and whatnots.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Was getting kind of tired seat bar drop using a niner flat bar. So today i bought a zero rise surly open bar for the pompino. The open bar should bring the bars up a bit while retaining the favorable reach i now have with the niner bar. Next: thinking of re-gearing from a 68 to a 70 GI and dropping from 28c to 25c tires.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Finally installed one of my Christmas presents today: a 38t chainring for my commuter. The Alfine 11 just has way too high a gearing for the bike with a 42/18 combo. Would probably be okay on a group ride with skinny tires, but right now, I've used the top gear maybe once for 5-10 seconds.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I'm trying to install V-brakes on my geared commuter, and it's not going so well. First, the bolt holes were too short on my fork. Washers fixed that problem. Now I'm having trouble getting the brake pads to touch the rim. 

Maybe I'm missing something, but V-brakes are usually easy to setup. It seems I either need a longer arm on the brake pad or have to remove my fender and pull the cable super tight just to get adequate contact. Maybe looking at it in full daylight will help, but I'm kind of frustrated with the whole process.


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

Are you converting from standard cantilevers? V-brakes don't play well with standard levers. They really don't play well with standard drop bar levers. It's hard to diagnose exactly what's going on without knowing many details.

What frame/fork are you using? What brakes are you trying to install? What levers are they matched with? Drop bar/flat bar? Is the fork width beyond the reach of the brakes?

The retrogrouch in me is screaming, "CANTILEVERS!!!!," over and over again. But, I've gotten pretty good a suppressing that grouchy fellow.

Good luck, and with some more info. I can give some more advice, if you want it.


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## LangdoniousRex (Dec 4, 2014)

TenSpeed said:


> Went to a few bike shops over in another city an hour or so away today. You never know what you will find there, right?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm rocking the same bike over here in the Netherlands as a commuter/beach pig. The Dutchies are always commenting on it. Fatbikes still haven't caught on here.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Trying out a Donkey Boxx pannier. Essentially a yard sign folded and welded into a box, held to the rack with zip ties.

I put my tablet and notes in a cloth grocery bag and dropped it in on top of my locks and such, saving about a pound over my heavy cloth panniers, or two pounds over my cheap heavy cloth panniers. About as aero as a garbage truck in reverse with a drag chute, but, simple, cheap, and dry.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

rogbie said:


> Are you converting from standard cantilevers? V-brakes don't play well with standard levers. They really don't play well with standard drop bar levers. It's hard to diagnose exactly what's going on without knowing many details.
> 
> What frame/fork are you using? What brakes are you trying to install? What levers are they matched with? Drop bar/flat bar? Is the fork width beyond the reach of the brakes?
> 
> ...


Yeah, converting from cantilevers. I am trying to replace the whole system. The brakes came as a complete set, so they should work together. I'm working with a Cannondale rigid fork (full bike specs: 1996 Cannondale M900 - BikePedia) on a mtb riser bar. Should be easy, right? Even when I reconfigured the brake pad washers to get maximum length, the pads still don't contact the rim.

I converted a similar bike (C'dale M2000) to V-brakes a while back without any problems. I initially thought that the bolts might be a different distance from each other, but I measured and they're exactly the same (3-1/4", if I remember correctly). V-Brakes are usually so easy to install.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Man, my SS bike is turned into a total **** bucket. The drivetrain creaks and clunks so bad that i can feel it through the pedals. Its either the origin 8 chainring or the crank spindle being worn down or both so it calls for a overhaul of the drivetrain. Seat now has a crack up one side of it so the fans lopsided and the nose now hangs a right making it really uncomfortable. Then yesterday i get yet another flat making it two in the last 3 weeks. But heres the thing it like the previous one wasnt from debris. Each tube developed a tear on the inside of the tube near but not on the tube/stem seam like the tube was over inflated allowing the tube to rub on something creating the tear. After the flat i just said **** you bike and left it in the bike rack at work. Ill need to retrieve the bike sometime but right now i dont even want to see it.


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## woodway (Dec 27, 2005)

I swapped out my rear BB7 for a Trp Products Hy/Rd cable-actuated hydraulic disc brake.

I had swapped out the front BB7 for a Hy/Rd last year as a test and after working out a couple of kinks have been very happy with the performance. I finally got around to changing out the rear BB7 for a HY/RD last weekend and now I am wondering why I did not do it sooner.

I run SRAM double-tap brifters and they work great with these brakes. Braking power and modulation are both way better than with the BB7's. The pads self-center and self-adjust as they wear so no more screwing around clicking in the pad adjusters. It always seemed like I had to adjust the BB7 pads so close to the rotor in order to get good braking performance that there was a perpetual rubbing or dinging noise coming from my brakes.

Overall I am really satisfied with these brakes. I was hoping to go full hydraulic but just cannot justify dropping $350 per wheel for new brakes. Maybe someday the price will come down...


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## KentheKona (Jul 6, 2013)

Finally got the fenders on and did some preventative maintenance. Adds a little bit of class to my cheap commuter.


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

s0ckeyeus said:


> Yeah, converting from cantilevers. I am trying to replace the whole system. The brakes came as a complete set, so they should work together. I'm working with a Cannondale rigid fork (full bike specs: 1996 Cannondale M900 - BikePedia) on a mtb riser bar. Should be easy, right? Even when I reconfigured the brake pad washers to get maximum length, the pads still don't contact the rim.
> 
> I converted a similar bike (C'dale M2000) to V-brakes a while back without any problems. I initially thought that the bolts might be a different distance from each other, but I measured and they're exactly the same (3-1/4", if I remember correctly). V-Brakes are usually so easy to install.


What levers are you using? I know Shimano has two different positions for their flat bar levers that provide different gain ratios for v-brakes and cantis.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Today was an eye opener. Took the Jamis down to the shop to check on my chain length vs. my dropouts. Wanted a more experienced opinion on it. My friend was getting a new crank and bottom bracket put on his fixed gear, so we met down there. Well, since owning my Jamis, there has been an unresolved creak from the crank area. Everything has been looked at and adjusted except for the bottom bracket. Since there is a customer work area with two stands, I went ahead and pulled it, with my buddy who is the manager there, his "help". I did most of the work, and he told me exactly what to do. I have never done anything like this before in the past. Once I got the crank arms off, and the bottom bracket off, he realized that there was an issue with the bottom bracket threads in the frame. The non drive side was kind of messed up. The owner told me that this often happens when they assemble bikes because they use some sort of power tool to put that cup in and sometimes it doesn't go in correctly. The face of the bottom bracket threading was also never finished correctly. This is where I stepped back, and my buddy took over. Cool tools were brought out, and to town he went. First he redid the bottom bracket threads inside the frame. I have never seen this or even knew that this was possible. Very cool! Then he went to town and refaced both sides of the bike so that everything was finished and flush. Never knew about this either. Any time something needed to be cleaned or wiped out, I did it. Obviously I can't use those tools, so he did that part. After that, again with his help, I reassembled everything, greased threads, torqued, etc. He also found some sort of spacer that was installed backwards that was doing nothing on the bottom bracket, so that was removed. There are no clearance issues, in fact the chain line is better now with that spacer out. The chain ring/crank arm is pretty close to the stay, but after everything was tightened down, and we assessed the clearance, he decided it was OK. Said if I made enough power to move the carbon crank arms over that much, that I should be on a velodrome not commuting to work.

Finally we addressed the chain. I removed a link which I was not familiar with either, and then we realized that it was just way too gangster and the rear wheel was really tucked, so much that he wouldn't let it go out like that. I learned about a half link and how that works, and got that put on and everything tightened down. It is absolutely perfect now as far as the chain goes. No test ride since it is raining right now and in the mid 30's and pretty miserable out. Hoping to take it out tomorrow and see if that made a difference.

Also picked up my PDW Dave's Mudshovel fat bike fenders which finally came in. Impressed at first, packaging and all, but now that they are on, ehhhhh, I don't know how much I like them. Priced pretty cheap so I don't feel ripped off, but the overall quality kind of leaves me questioning it. Will give them a shot before a decision is made. Knew right away that I did not like the rear mount, had to make a slight modification to that, and the front as well. Knew immediately that the mounting straps would be replaced with zip ties. I will post pictures of it soon.

During crank disassembly - love this shop!!










Before refacing - non drive side










After refacing - drive side


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

rogbie said:


> What levers are you using? I know Shimano has two different positions for their flat bar levers that provide different gain ratios for v-brakes and cantis.


This is what I have: Amazon.com : Promax V-Brake Set (Black) : Bike Rim Brake Sets : Sports & Outdoors. Maybe they're just not great brakes. I don't know. I got the front brake to work properly, but I had to take off the cable boot and cinch the cable up pretty tight.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

I'm closer to where I want to be. Now I have the unique problem of needing longer mounting bolts so that I can mount the new brakes to the bike...

Always something I've overlooked. :skep:

I think I'll have the guys at the shop show me how to install cables, too. They'll let me behind the main counter and they have the right tools.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

TenSpeed said:


> Today was an eye opener. .. Well, since owning my Jamis, there has been an unresolved creak from the crank area. Everything has been looked at and adjusted except for the bottom bracket. ... Once I got the crank arms off, and the bottom bracket off, he realized that there was an issue with the bottom bracket threads in the frame. The non drive side was kind of messed up. The owner told me that this often happens when they assemble bikes because they use some sort of power tool to put that cup in and sometimes it doesn't go in correctly. The face of the bottom bracket threading was also never finished correctly.


I had the same issue five years ago with my then 30 year old frame when fitting a new BB. The free ball bearing old style BB tolerated the threads and bearing cups being out of line (though it was not ideal). The new sealed unit was not. It was a trip to Indy to get a shop with the tools, time, and expertise to tap the threads on one side and reface the BB.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

BrianMc said:


> I had the same issue five years ago with my then 30 year old frame when fitting a new BB. The free ball bearing old style BB tolerated the threads and bearing cups being out of line (though it was not ideal). The new sealed unit was not. It was a trip to Indy to get a shop with the tools, time, and expertise to tap the threads on one side and reface the BB.


I consider myself to be lucky to have access to a shop that is 4 miles from my place, and be friends with the owner and manager.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

TenSpeed said:


> Also picked up my PDW Dave's Mudshovel fat bike fenders which finally came in. Impressed at first, packaging and all, but now that they are on, ehhhhh, I don't know how much I like them.


Keep us updated on the fenders. I am really hurting for some fenders for the Minny 2, but I'm not ready to fork up the cash for a set of Big O's on a bike that was always meant to be a cheap play bike. If you decide the PDW's aren't for you I may be interested in taking them off your hands...


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Added a fat fender from Big O Manufacturing


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## TheAxiom (Jan 15, 2015)

rodar y rodar said:


> :lol:
> If it`s any consolation, my favorite bike was free when it came into my hands, and I dumped probably $800 into it before I ever put it to use, then quite a bit more since. Not necessary by any means, but it`s how I want it and it`s MINE.


I'm in the same boat too. I found my bike in the garbage and replace everything except the frame, fork, seat post QR and the front derailuer, and the rack attached to the bike when I found it. Trial and error in getting the bike up to spec for my needs (I was the first time I every built a bicycle) probably set me back over $500.

But, I'll have it until I die or the frame collapses because it is EXACTLY what I wanted, as I wanted it.


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## KentheKona (Jul 6, 2013)

Not my commuter, but I got sick of frozen eye lashes and the forecast for the next couple days is looking very frigid.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

Aside from pogies and my balaclava, my (formerly my wife's) ski goggles are my favorite piece of winter riding gear.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Mr Pink57 said:


> Added a fat fender from Big O Manufacturing


Arghhhhh I wish that I would have seen this!!! They have a kit for my bike specifically and it looks decent. $115 but full coverage. How do you like them, and how stable is the mounting?



KentheKona said:


> View attachment 963672
> 
> 
> Not my commuter, but I got sick of frozen eye lashes and the forecast for the next couple days is looking very frigid.


Dude, that is a smart option. I love my set up.










Pardon the selfie


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Finally got around to installing the second Delta 100 saddle rail cage mount for the Jamis. Booooo, doesn't fit the Selle San Marco saddle that is on there. I messed with it for at least an hour, and I could not get it to fit. Time for a saddle swap. Specialized Avatar off the fat bike, onto the Jamis, but not before test fitting the mount. Specialized Riva onto the fat bike after cleaning the Thomson post really well. Selle San Marco onto the shelf. 

Since I am using the Specialized RH Zee cage on both bikes, the Delta cage is just sitting there. It is a really beefy black cage, so that will be going on the fat bike tonight.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Shimmed my fork dropouts with a teeny-tiny piece of plastic cut from the top of a pringles can.

I've got two forks that I want to swap back and forth, but they aren't aligned. A perfectly dished wheel in the suspension fork is off by ~1/4" in the rigid fork. I don't know which fork is bad, and it doesn't really matter, because the way to really fix it would be either brute-force bending, or filing excess metal from the dropouts. And I don't want to do either of those.

So I dug through the recycling and found a bunch of different plastics, and cut them into little pieces to try as a spacer. A piece of ziptie was too thick, and over-corrected the wheel too much. Soda bottle was too thin. But the pringles lid worked great. So I superglued it in place, and we'll see how things go. If nothing else, now I won't be annoyed everytime I look at the bike and see it's off-kilter front wheel.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Said F it, and bought the Big O fender kit for my bike. Winter isn't going anywhere any time soon unfortunately.

*cough*kleebs*cough*


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

It's done. My drop bar bike is now a flat bar bike and it has brakes and everything. My buddy at the bike shop showed me how to install cables the right way and everything. Also, I the Sheldon Brown website taught me how to resolve the modern recessed brakes in the old fork issue. 

Since they put copious amounts of snow back in the forecast, I'll probably get a pic or two when I go out riding later. 

Also, so stoked because I got a wicked pair of Easton lock-on grips for the mtb. I hope I'm done spending dough on bikes for a while... but who knows, still kinda wanna get cross tires for the ss.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

NDD said:


> I hope I'm done spending dough on bikes for a while...


RIIIIIIGHT!!! We all know that doing that is impossible. Congrats on finishing the bike however.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

TenSpeed said:


> RIIIIIIGHT!!! We all know that doing that is impossible. Congrats on finishing the bike however.


Thanks. And yeah... it'll be a couple of weeks and then there'll be something. I realized just after typing that last one that I still need new shifting and braking cables on the mtb... Woo! Oh well, I'ma get a tax return back in three weeks or so.

I knew I shouldn't have spent the extra couple of cents on the colored donuts for the braking cable and colored end caps for the cable ends. That was a whole dollar.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Wham, 








Bam, 








Thank you, ma'am.








That's it. I'm digging the flat bar with bar ends. I feel like I almost use the bar ends like bullhorn bars...

The 16T freewheel might've been the wrong choice for today. A bit windy and I've been spoiled by gears for the last couple of months. I still just love how quiet the ss setup is and how much better acceleration is.

Waiting for the next commute now, but if it snows as much as they say it might, I'll probably be on the mtb. Oh well, I just have new grips to try out on that one.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

TenSpeed said:


> Said F it, and bought the Big O fender kit for my bike. Winter isn't going anywhere any time soon unfortunately.
> 
> *cough*kleebs*cough*


Boo-Yah

Let me know what you want for them. I'll dig through my parts bucket, but I doubt there's much in there that's worth anything. I used most of the good stuff to build an errand/grocery bike for my wife last summer.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

For the second time in two days, wiped down my bike and lubed the brake calipers. They're dropping rock salt like it's going to go bad.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Picked up a new old stock 2013 Jamis Nova Sport on Saturday. Took it out for a 56 mile shakedown yesterday. Switched out the stock 120 mm stem with a more normal 90 mm, dropped the stem on the steerer by 4 cm, angled the bars a little more straight and a little less rearward, and switched out saddles. I've been fighting with the Romin that I had 3,000 miles on since my collision back in November. My LBS has an ISM Adamo demo going on, so I'm giving the Road model a shot right now. Not too bad, but a little strange. Took the Vittoria 700x32 CX tires off and tossed some 700x23 Gatorskins. I'll tell you one thing, these crappy 8 speed shifters and Tektro Lyra brakes have GOT to go.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

I just couldn't get used to the Romin. I used it 3 (4?) times, and it was like a rock. This coming from someone who suffered through breaking in a Brooks Professional.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I'm about ready to go Brooks or Selle Anatomica.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Mounted my Planet Bike plastic fenders on the new Jamis tonight. Took some serious thought on getting them around the disc calipers. These brakes suck so hard, I can't wait to switch road BB7s. I'm thinking about sanding the rotors and pads this weekend to see if bedding them in again might help.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

No pics of the new ride???


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I planned on it yesterday, but it was coming down in sheets. Hoping that I can get something today on my way home.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Switched back over to my mountain shoes from my road shoes. I'm able to wear thicker socks and I don't get funny looks and skid all over the place when I go into the gas station in the morning. Well worth it. LOL.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Fenders should be here tomorrow. Pretty excited to get them on after I clean the bike, again. Going to try and do a group ride on Sunday, on snowy and muddy dirt roads. This arrival is perfectly timed.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Texan, have you tried both Brooks and Selle Anatomica? Any thoughts on the differences? I have a slotted Brooks on the Bosanova. I love it, but I spend too much time worrying about it parked in the rack in bad weather. 

Tenspeed, what happened with the last set of fat fenders? Did they not work or just not feel/ look right?


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Rustedthrough said:


> Texan, have you tried both Brooks and Selle Anatomica? Any thoughts on the differences? I have a slotted Brooks on the Bosanova. I love it, but I spend too much time worrying about it parked in the rack in bad weather.
> 
> Tenspeed, what happened with the last set of fat fenders? Did they not work or just not feel/ look right?


Kleebs was non stop PM'ing me wanting them and not leaving me alone so I sold them to him LOL. They were just not exactly what I was looking for so I opted for these instead.

Framed Minnesota 1.0+ 2.0 - Big O Manufacturing


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Rustedthrough said:


> Texan, have you tried both Brooks and Selle Anatomica? Any thoughts on the differences? I have a slotted Brooks on the Bosanova. I love it, but I spend too much time worrying about it parked in the rack in bad weather.
> 
> Tenspeed, what happened with the last set of fat fenders? Did they not work or just not feel/ look right?


Yeah, I have, but only for a short period of time. The Selle breaks in very quickly, and contours in a much more visible way. The perineal cutout is huge, compared to the Brooks. Other than that, they're pretty much the same.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Borrowed a Selle Anatomica saddle for the weekend, will give a try tomorrow.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Nice. Just keep in mind, they're like Brooks, in that they are broken in to your ass, and therfore, a custom fit.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

I'll keep that in mind for the test saddle, it sounds better than my efforts to break my posterior into the stock WTB. It seems softer out of the box than the Brooks did, we'll see how it goes.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ Even though I'm normally a big fan of WTB saddles, my Unit came with the Valcon which 100% did not work for me. Did yours come with the Volt? I think that one is the replacement for the Valcon, and it's just a bizarre choice to stick on a rigid SS.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I tried the Volt, and had the same experience.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

I think it is the Volt. As stock saddles go its not terrible, but it is pretty unforgiving on a rigid frame. Pressure in the wrong places. 

While it was fixed gear, I did a lot of standing/ mashing on the pedals, and it didn't bother me much. With gears, seated, it is painful.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I have a Volt on my fatbike. I actually like it.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

^ Point well made Harold. Every rider is a little different.

The Volt doesn't fit me well, or, I don't fit it well. The Brooks was a good fit and conformed well. I am hoping the Selle will also be a good fit and will conform faster. In the end, it is all about fit.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Yeah, everyone's different. I just found that with all of the stand/sit/stand/sit of ss-ing, and occasionally spinning along at 120rpm+, that a saddle with almost no padding is a weird choice by kona (although they've been specing it for years)


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Anyone have any experience with the Brooks Cambrium? S'posed to feel like a broken in leather saddle from day one.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I think that they are having issues with the dark ones, they are fading to a brown color within 6-8 months. As for fit, I don't know anything about them.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

Im running a slim saddle with some gel inside (and a fart hole), the gel seems to be very thin, and the first month I used the saddle it hurt like hell. But now its really comfortable. It feels rock hard pretty much. Its a selle italia slr something. The way I understand it is this: you want some padding/gel/whatever, but much much less than you think.

I dislike wtb saddles, they just have this weird shape. I think the actual shape of the saddle is the most important aspect.


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## Ninja Turtle (Oct 3, 2014)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> Anyone have any experience with the Brooks Cambrium? S'posed to feel like a broken in leather saddle from day one.


I do and it does. Ive had the c17 in slate for about 6 months on my daily commuter. I love it so much that I want the smaller c15 on my MTB but just can't justify the weight at the moment. Maybe one day.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I have no concern with weight. I am very interested in comfort, however.


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## Ninja Turtle (Oct 3, 2014)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> I have no concern with weight. I am very interested in comfort, however.


I'd say for sure give it a try. It's the only saddle I've used that is more comfortable without bike shorts. It's nice with bike shorts too, just no need.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

car bone said:


> Im running a slim saddle with some gel inside (and a fart hole), the gel seems to be very thin, and the first month I used the saddle it hurt like hell. But now its really comfortable. It feels rock hard pretty much. Its a selle italia slr something. The way I understand it is this: you want some padding/gel/whatever, but much much less than you think.
> 
> I dislike wtb saddles, they just have this weird shape. I think the actual shape of the saddle is the most important aspect.


I used to think WTB saddles were alright, until I tried something else. Now I cannot use them at all. For me, the Specialized saddles seem to work well, and so far this Selle San Marcos I have is nice as well. I pretty much always ride with a chamois so padding is consistent.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I am about halfway through the install of my Big O fat bike fenders. A couple of things really quick. 

1. For $115 + shipping, I would think that the mounting would be a lot easier, with the fenders being pre-drilled. They are not.
2. When I split from my wife, I we split the tools as well. Two drills, one corded, one cordless. I took one. Thought it was the corded. I am currently waiting for the battery to charge on the cordless. Doh.
3. The instructions for the fenders are poorly written for the average person. I have messed with fenders before so I get the general idea of it. For a first timer, these are not going to be easy to mount based on the instructions.
4. These look to be a very solid mount one they are completed. I am hoping that since they are a thick ABS plastic, there should be minimal if no rattling around which drives me absolutely insane. 
5. Pictures will be posted once I am done, hopefully sometime tonight.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Well, it is finished. Finally!!! This was a big job for me for some reason, oh wait, because the manufacturer decided to cut some corners in the final product.

Taking my time, to include drill charging time, a quick trip to Home Depot to get a 3/16 drill bit (thought I had it, didn't) and taking my time, it took me close to 5 hours to put these on and get them fully adjusted. The quality of the actual fender is great. They are pretty light yet feel pretty heavy duty. The mounting hardware is pretty decent as well which I was glad to see. The disappointment comes in the lack of the fenders themselves being drilled. The rear one is drilled once for the lowest mount near the bottom bracket not sure what that is called. That means that the upper mount could have been pre-drilled as there is only one way this fender is going in. They are advertised for MY BIKE, the Framed Minnesota 1.0/2.0. There are no differences in the frame for the two, just the drivetrain. If the upper hole had been pre-drilled it would have saved me time and the fender would have a better chance of being dead center on the frame. The lower rear mount had to be drilled twice as I effed the first one up and was off to the left a little. The washer covers it which is perfect. The front was much easier but I feel like the left side mounting screw is nowhere near as tight as the right. If it gets tighter, the whole fender pulls to the left, and then it rubs on the tire. Gonna leave it for now and hope it works. No rubbing that I can see so far. The front is completely user customizable as far as coverage fore and aft, because you get to drill the holes. I opted for more coverage for spray and snow snot. Test ride tomorrow and I hope it holds up OK. I also added some black and orange electrical tape to the downtube and fork. The decals on the fork were uneven and it was driving me nuts so I covered them, and then added the orange. It looks pretty cool in person and actually changes the look of the bike quite a bit. This is not included in the time it took me to mount the fenders.










Look closely in the triangle, and you can see my dog Franklin, who was supervising the whole time from his spot on the couch.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Looks good TenSpeed, did you use loctite on the less tight bolt?

Sunday should be a good day for fender testing around here. I hope they work as good as they look.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Put out a bid for some bb7s today. Accidentally bid on some road ones... Oops, probably won't win but if I do I got them for $7.00. Also bid on an mtb model, too. It'd be nice to upgrade the brakes a bit, I mean I'm getting new cables and everything so... So TenSpeed was right. That didn't last long.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

NDD said:


> Put out a bid for some bb7s today. Accidentally bid on some road ones... Oops, probably won't win but if I do I got them for $7.00. Also bid on an mtb model, too. It'd be nice to upgrade the brakes a bit, I mean I'm getting new cables and everything so... So TenSpeed was right. That didn't last long.


 It never does my friend, it never does.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Rode the Selle Anatomica X for a few days of very short rides, bought the "X" I tested. 

Spending money begets spending money, so I ordered up a pair of ESI chunky grips for the Unit as well. If they work as well as I'm hoping (half as well as the new saddle, in admittedly short tests), I'll likely need new silicone bar tape for the Bosanova. I am of course, still assuming Spring will come and our winter will not be followed by the winter CommuterBoy has misplaced.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Cut down my steerer tube by about 3 cm. Got word from a buddy of mine that he'll be giving me his 105 10 speed group that he's taking of on Thursday. So that means I will need new cables and bar tape.


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## santa cruzer73 (Oct 22, 2013)

Replaced Shimano 160 rear rotor and pads!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Rustedthrough said:


> Rode the Selle Anatomica X for a few days of very short rides, bought the "X" I tested.
> 
> Spending money begets spending money, so I ordered up a pair of ESI chunky grips for the Unit as well. If they work as well as I'm hoping (half as well as the new saddle, in admittedly short tests), I'll likely need new silicone bar tape for the Bosanova. I am of course, still assuming Spring will come and our winter will not be followed by the winter CommuterBoy has misplaced.


Seriously considering the ESI Chunky grips for the fat bike for two reasons. 1. I have never tried them. 2. They come in orange. OURY lock ons are great for mountain biking, but for what my fat bike sees, they are not that great. Hoping that they offer a bit more cushion for my hands. My buddies shop has them in stock so I might pick up a pair on Friday.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^There is an extra chunky ESI grip now too. I was tempted because I like the chunky, but I haven't tried them because my hands are pretty small.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

The LBS will mount the ESIs tomorrow night, halfway through my commute. The guys at the LBS swear they are better for damping cold bars than anything else (at least anything they stock). Extra Chunky might be even better, but nobody mentioned them before I ordered, so we'll go chunky for now.

Should be cold enough tomorrow to test that theory of conductivity.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Leather, brah. Or a double wrap of 'cork' tape.

If you try it, you might not go back to MTB grips.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

After countless hours of searching and watching videos online, I pulled the trigger on a Contour Roam2 HD camera. I would like to record one of my commutes when it gets nicer out and maybe share it here. For the price, I could not find a better camera. I had a GoPro Hero in the past and to be honest, I disliked it with a passion. I found that Contour on Amazon for over half off. Decided that I would finally get one and use it.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Ive grown tired of the gearing on the SSCX so i grabbed the geared CX bike with its 35c's and discs never looked back. Gonna hit some dirt tonite on the way home.,


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## z1r (Apr 17, 2014)

Technically not today but last night I scored a set of new, with tags, 700c x 40mm Nokian Hakkapeliitta W240 studded tires to replace the Hakkapeliitta A10 studded tires I have been running. The A10's are fast on pavement and work great on flat ice but they sucked in anything more than a light snow and were less than stellar on rutted or refrozen ice.

Rode my CX Commuter in this am through 6 inches of fresh snow in many places and they worked great. I would never have made it on the A10's!


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Replacing the 8 speed Sora group that came stock on the Nova sport with 10 speed 105/Ulterga. While I'm by no means a gear snob, I have little tolerance for uncomfortable things. I couldn't ride in the hoods of the Sora, they are too short and narrow, causing my hands to cramp. A friend of mine passed on a wrecked set of 105 shifters that he had, so I'm only out cassette and chain.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Holy crap! I'm super impressed with these 105 5700 shifters. They're comfortable, quick, smooth, but reassuring, which can be an issue with the higher end Shimano stuff when the gear ratios are so close together you're just not sure if you actually shifted. LOL. I'm not sure whether or not I'll need to replace the brakes now, since it seems that these shifters added a lot of missing power and modulation.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

^Thats going to be a mighty sweet ride by the time your done with it Texan. Keep the artistic pics coming.

Got the ESI Chunky grips installed halfway through the afternoon commute. It may have been the residual heat from sliding a 20 out of my wallet, but my hands were much warmer on the second leg. The padding and glove/ mitten traction is lovely.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Thanks man! I'm fairly certain I'm done with mods except for some new fat bar tape, and tracking down a new saddle.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> Thanks man! I'm fairly certain I'm done with mods except for some new fat bar tape, and tracking down a new saddle.


Done with mods? Are we ever done? Heck no. Glad the shifters are working out for you. I personally won't own anything with Sora on it after my last experience with it. Absolute garbage.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Once you're happy, you're happy. Plus, I've got several other hobbies to dump my cash into. My guitars and mandolins have been long neglected.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Texan, I've had the same drum heads on my kit since before I started college, except the snare. I've had the same sticks for to years, so I know what you mean. With all of the money I've spent on bikes, I coulda had a new kit. Lol.

Edit: two years not to years. #Smartphoneprobz


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

But piezo transducer technology has come so far since my last upgrade.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

I bet. Gotta upgrade it. I find every time I go to buy sticks I'm disappointed that they stopped making ones I like. Thin shaft, small round tip. Kinda like boleros but narrower shaft and made of hickory, not ash. 

Hickory it's real.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I feel the same way about my strings. Used to play Black Diamond phosphor bronze Mando strings. The brand is still around, but they're not made how they used to be. Everything else doesn't sound and feel right.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Specialized has a new Toupe sport saddle at a price point I couldn't argue with. While I hate to buy from the Big S, considering their attitude, if my ass likes it, I can't argue. Normally, the amount of padding and the flat top would drive me away, but I'm at the point now where I'm looking at things I would have passed on because I didn't find them comfortable. Never would I have thought that an accident would change my preferences in saddles.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Oh woodchipper, how you confound me.

I got you last summer, and definitely liked you better than the midge. Short reach and nice long extensions were great, but you also had your own problems.

Guitar Ted is quite an expert on these things, and he thinks your radius is just fundamentally wrong. And I would tend to agree, because your hooks just aren't comfortable. I always end up with my hands on the extensions just down from the hooks. That works okay, but it's not comfy like the midge.

Salsa says you work well between 20-30deg, and plenty of other people seem to agree.









I've tried more angles than I can count, and every different lever position available. Generally I've been between 28-32deg.

But this week on a whim I rotated you way out to 40deg:


__
https://flic.kr/p/r8a921

And suddenly the hooks are the most natural thing in the world. I hadn't used the hooks once all year, but that's where I've been all week. I don't know what the magic is, but it's honestly like night and day.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Glad you got that figured out. Isn't it amazing what such a simple thing can do? 

Gave the Toupe a hard 7 miles on a closed loop this evening, and didn't hate it, so we'll see how it goes. While I was out riding, I dropped my stem another 15 mm and it was like it was made for me. I had been avoiding aggressive positions because conventional wisdom says that it would be uncomfortable for me, being a larger rider. Nope, not at all. So, when I got home, I trimmed the steerer so that I didn't have that funky steerer poking above the stem.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Derg, yep. Got some bb7s coming my way. Might replace my shifters, too since they came with cables, rotors, and levers. 

What's a good 8-speed trigger shifter? I'm sure I'll have to get it used, but whatever about that. It appears I can get a set of SRAM x4 shifters for about $25, but I dunno, why not go higher level than that?


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I've got some Shimano rapid fires if you want em.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

NDD said:


> Derg, yep. Got some bb7s coming my way. Might replace my shifters, too since they came with cables, rotors, and levers.
> 
> What's a good 8-speed trigger shifter? I'm sure I'll have to get it used, but whatever about that. It appears I can get a set of SRAM x4 shifters for about $25, but I dunno, why not go higher level than that?


The best 8sp shifters are the 9sp xtrs with a jtek shiftmate 9 to 8.
Jtek ShiftMate


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

I switched my gearing from 67 to 70 GI and replaced the 1/8" SS specific chain with a 8 spd 3/32" chain since my chainring and freewheel are 3/32. The 67 GI was too low as acceleration and top speed suffered. So the 70 GI set up is pretty cool and like the reduction in cadence. The use of 3/32" chainring, chain and freewheel seems to have quieted the drivetrain down some but it seems as if im still getting some noise from the freewheel.


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## BlowtorchBob (Jan 8, 2015)

Added a front rack and straps . Then went and picked up a pizza, spaghetti, and a six-pack. 

WOOOHHOOOOOO

TV PARTY TONIGHT, TV PARTY TONIGHT!


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Tomorrow night, the bb7s, brake levers, new shifters, and new cables all go on the mtb. I'm stoked for better braking and shifting performance!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Cleaned the whole thing, readjusted the rear wheel tension, and put the front brake back on. I moved the handle all the way in almost to the stem.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

ndd 

So what did you end up getting?? I'm running drop bars, cane creek road bars levers, bb7, xtr 9sp shifter (needed to make a mount of course), jtek 9 to 8, and 6sp diy cassettes with the 8sp spacing.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

car bone said:


> ndd
> 
> So what did you end up getting?? I'm running drop bars, cane creek road bars levers, bb7, xtr 9sp shifter (needed to make a mount of course), jtek 9 to 8, and 6sp diy cassettes with the 8sp spacing.


Don't have shifters picked out yet. Still deciding. Is there an advantage the brifter, or should I get separate brake and shift units?


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Brifters are convenient, especially if you ride with your hands on the hoods. But not as much fun with gloves under mitts. You won't likely mis- shift with your knee with brifters.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Rustedthrough said:


> Brifters are convenient, especially if you ride with your hands on the hoods. But not as much fun with gloves under mitts. You won't likely mis- shift with your knee with brifters.


Hold the phone, I just assumed anything with a brake/shifter combo was a brifter. Does that not apply to mtb style trigger shifters? Because I've heard people call those brifters too.


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## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

With respect, anyone who calls anything a brifter should be shot. There is no such thing. Its a longer abbreviation than the respective products actual name: STI for Shimano, Ergo for Campy.

end rant

NDD, mtb setups generally aren't refered to like that as the brake levers and shift levers, while attached, are seperate. The exception being Shimano's short lived Dual Control levers.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Just looked at them... They are separate. I'll be dipped. Thanks for the info, bud.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

So I was adjusting my brifters (shrakes?) the other day.... 

I've got a bike with "Dual Control" LX parts. Keeps a lickin' and keeps on tickin'. After that bike I assumed that my other MTBs still had them combined but have sense determined that they aren't, which is nice.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

What did I do? I lost one of the bolts that holds the front fender on. I knew this would happen, and it did. Worked its way loose, and came off while riding home, in all places, in the snow. Didn't even bother to stop to try to look for it. 20F and windy and my hands were just frozen. Anyone know if this bolt is universal? Mounts to the lower part of the fork if that matters.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

^Have you tried stealing one from your bottle cage mount?


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Typically m5x.8mm, same as a bottle cage boss, as above.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Thanks guys, will check in the am and post back.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

If the bolt works, a little blue loctite may save a lot of frustration down the line.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Rustedthrough said:


> ^Have you tried stealing one from your bottle cage mount?





wschruba said:


> Typically m5x.8mm, same as a bottle cage boss, as above.


Thanks guys, found out that I have a couple of extra bottle cage mount bolts and while they are not the exact same, it fits. Put some blue Loctite 242 on both of them and got it adjusted almost perfectly. Hopefully this will hold them in place.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Finally replaced the stock pedals on the Bosanova with some Welgo flats, and the bar tape with some faux Lizard skin. Melting snow and a chance to run slicks again was too much temptation.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

pulled off a dead freewheel only to find that the shop that installed it stripped about 5mm off the freewheel body while installing it. So i had to install the new freewheel on the fixed side which is kinda sketchy since it only threads on 1/2 way. Bought a thread repairing file and was able to clean the threads enough so that i could get the new freewheel on. new chain and freewheel and the drivetrains working great.


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

Did my post-winter cleanup yesterday. My chain was trashed from salt but otherwise just needed to scrub and lube the jockey wheels. Ready to get me through another year. I might actually be riding it again soon too


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## Texico (Feb 23, 2009)

Today I stripped the frame of all parts. I was actually able to salvage quite a bit. I need a new non-drive crank arm and will need a new bottom bracket, but I have basically a full drive-train. Now I can build up a new frame if I choose to do so in the future. My new bike should get here on Wednesday, and Friday I should have time to assemble it and be up and riding again.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ what are you doing with the old crank arm? It deserves some sort of honor.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

Lots of stuff on the Pigsley.

After 2 years without as much as a single patch, Both tubes failed around the valve stem on the same day, very odd. I had one spare tube and a group ride the next day so I threw a 29er tube in which was defective. So I threw another 29er tube in. I had my doubts but it made it through the ride. Sitting in my basement I heard it blow.
- Installed 2 ultralight tubes
It was also time for a new chain. After replacing that, I found it was also time for a new small chainring. Since I'm replacing stuff I might as well go for a wider range cassette. I expected the crank to come apart like a hollowtech. After pulling the non-drive side crank and bashing on the axle for a while I realized that it didn't. Whoops, took off the drive side and carried on.
- Installed chainring, chain, cassette.
While I was taking it apart I realized that the rear bearings were all loosey-goosey. Of course it was the locknut inside the freehub body that wasn't tightened down so I had to pull the axle to cinch it up which is when I found actual loose ball bearings. I thought only retro-grouch bikes still had those. Since I was 2 hours into changing 2 tires and a chain, I skipped a full clean and re-pack and gobbed some grease in there and called it good. It looked clean enough.
-Packed and adjusted bearings.
-Straightened the brake rotor while it was at it.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

There was an old thread on reusing old bike parts where a left crank arm was fitted to a La-Z-Boy chair in lieu of the foot support lever. Could not find that thread but here is a post from the Commuter Love thread of a use for wheels unsuited to safe riding:

Commuter Love- Mtbr.com


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I think you might have missed Texico's collision report:


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

I washed my bike

Then I pumped up the slicks and put them on.

Ride in this morning looked down and I was high gear 46 11 tooling along at about 70 rpm...That is about 35 km/h

I like summer.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

I'm still trying to figure out how you have summer already.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

bedwards1000 said:


> I'm still trying to figure out how you have summer already.


Unbelievable high above 10 C all week low is just above 0C...

Strong pacific airflow, typical El Nino weather for us.

It has been -20C through March for last couple of years.

Just East of us the artic high comes down and that is what you guys get...

Although right now it is warm all across the Canadian prairies.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

Just after I read your post I saw this. I think it says it all. We are actually pretty warm compared to what it has been.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

I slammed my stem, kinda. I lowered it all those gold spacers. I think its 50-60mm or so.

Contrary to popular belief including my own, the bike became much more comfortable.

Somehow now if feels really good both on the hoods and in the drops. I rode pretty much all the way home in the drops. And it was so easy now to get out of the saddle and hammer compared to before. Usually I never get out of the saddle but now I did it like every 30 seconds.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

bedwards1000 said:


> Just after I read your post I saw this. I think it says it all. We are actually pretty warm compared to what it has been.


Where do you get that from I won't mind following that on a regular basis.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

That was from Keith Carson's Facebook page. He is mostly geared toward New England but posts some good stuff.
https://www.facebook.com/MeteorologistKeithCarson


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

Forgot

I also had to replace my seat bag the zipper finally died on it.

That is my 3 third seat bag in 10 years....I wouldn't have thought they were a wear item.


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## mort1369 (Oct 12, 2013)

Put the street tires back on the Kona (the Raleigh's going down for some wheels). Knelt down to inflate the front tire, totally forgetting about my patellar tendonitis in my left leg. Didn't do that a second time. . . .


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Pulled the studs off the fixie, and swapped back to bigapples.

Studs will stay on the 29er for at least a few weeks, but I did pull off the gears and convert it to summer singlespeed mode.


__
https://flic.kr/p/ritgdg

And that means that I took my first ride with one of the fancy new oval chainrings. The idea is that shimano was on the right track with biopace, but they did it wrong. And if you just rotate a biopace ring 90 you would get better results (unfortunately biopace were all 5 bolt, so you can only go 72deg)

I like wasting money on goofy new stuff, and I do have a specific problem - namely an ss that isn't too spiny on the commute, but is also good for trails.

Last year I bumped my 29er up to 32x16, which actually isn't bad on the road (it's much better than 32x18 or 33x18), and it's pretty good on the trails, but I did find myself walking a little bit more.

What the oval chainring should do is let me keep my road cadence the same, but maybe give me a bit more oomph to get over a root or two.

And from one ride I don't really notice it on the flats, but mashing up hill is definitely a lot more smooth. And that was the goal, so it should be fun.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

I haven't actually commuted on it yet (or even actually 'really' ridden it yet), but I did some work on the fatbike... put the wheels on a diet, converted to tubeless, switched to a summer friendly tire. Can't wait to go play on this thing (waiting for a rather important bolt to come in the mail).


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I finally got around to installing some new tires on my SS commuter. The back tire apparently was entirely seated when I was pumping it up. I saw the tire pulling away from the rim, but before I could do anything, the tube blew. After installing a new tube, I was much more careful to make sure the tire had fully seated in the rim before pumping up to the right pressure. I guess the bead/rim combo isn't an ideal match (the front rim, a different brand rim, had no problems), but I was able to get it to work. The whole thing scared the crap out of my wife who was sitting right next to me.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

When I put a new tube on, to properly seat the tire, I inflate the tube most of the way, then deflate it to work any potential kinks out of the tube and to attempt to properly seat the tire. After deflating it, I just check to see how the tire is on the wheel. Inflate again to the normal psi, and all should be good. Long time biking friend of mine does this and has never had an issue putting a new tube or tire on a wheel.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

I go to "squishy" PSI and then visually inspect the bead, pushing or pulling as necessary to get it set, then air up the rest of the way. I have done the explosion thing though... that will get your attention. :lol:


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

put the studs back on for an icy sleety commute


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

CommuterBoy said:


> I haven't actually commuted on it yet (or even actually 'really' ridden it yet), but I did some work on the fatbike... put the wheels on a diet, converted to tubeless, switched to a summer friendly tire. Can't wait to go play on this thing (waiting for a rather important bolt to come in the mail).


Did you measure the weight before and after? What did you use for sealant? Any trouble getting the bead to seat before you could get some pressure in there.

I honestly can't figure out how tubeless works on a fatbike. When running the lower pressures there is almost nothing holding the bead against the rim. It seems like it would take nothing to burp out the air with a few off camber hits.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

bedwards1000 said:


> I honestly can't figure out how tubeless works on a fatbike. When running the lower pressures there is almost nothing holding the bead against the rim. It seems like it would take nothing to burp out the air with a few off camber hits.


the force holding the bead onto the clincher rim is the hoop force caused by the pressure inside the tire.

So if we have the same load on the bike.
And the contact patch area is proportional to the X-sec diameter of the tire....(same overall diameter.

Suppose a 1 inch tire needs 80 psi, then a 4 inch tire needs 20 psi. Then the force holding the bead into the clincher in is 80lbs/in2*1 in = 80 lbs/in.

The force holding the 4 inch tire in at 20 psi. is 20 lbs/in *4 inch = 80 lbs/inch.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

I weighed the discs that I removed from one wheel... 6 ounces. That doesn't include all the shavings and debris obviously, and each disc had a pilot hole drilled out of it also... so it's the better part of a pound with both wheels together. Then dump the tubes... significant weight loss.

I use my own homebrew sealant based on "Wade's Secret Sauce version 1" from this amazing thread in the 29er forum: http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/best-tubeless-brew-406115.html

I have used Stans also, but my mix produces about a Gallon and has lasted me 10 months without having to add sealant. A Gallon lasts me at least 2 years with 3 tubeless bikes, including sharing with friends.

I was worried about the bead and burping a tire, and we'll see if that becomes an issue...but just removing the tires for the first time put my mind at ease. I can remove my MTB tires by pushing the bead in with two thumbs...on the fatbike I had to put the wheel on the ground at a 45 degree angle and stand on the bead of the tire...that didn't break it, so I had to reach down and work the bead a little with a thumb to get it to break loose while I was standing on it. The Tire fits loosely on the rim when you are installing, but those beads are SET compared to a "normal" MTB. I can't imagine burping one.

For the tubeless, I use Gorilla Tape and Stan's valve stems on my MTB, but the Gorilla Tape is pretty heavy when you consider how much of it you need for a fatbike wheel. I found a few guys online raving about the Scotch Transparent Duct Tape as a lightweight alternative to the Gorilla tape, and it's arguably better at dealing with the moisture....so I went with that.

For setting the bead with the tubeless...lots of guys get fancy with foam strips or weatherstripping in there to hold the tire in the right place to get the bead to set...this is needless extra weight in my opinion. I got the rims all taped up and ready, and then inflated the tire into place with a tube. Then I broke only one bead of the tire loose to remove the tube, so one side of the tire was set. Then put in the stans valve stem (with the core removed), and held the wheel horizontal with the broken bead down so gravity would do it's thing, while blasting air from the compressor (open nozzle blast of air) into the valve stem with the core removed. The bead set in about 3 seconds... all the air comes right back out the open valve, but the bead stays. Then inject sealant into the open valve stem, put the core in, air up, and there you have it.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

jeffscott said:


> the force holding the bead onto the clincher rim is the hoop force caused by the pressure inside the tire.
> 
> So if we have the same load on the bike.
> And the contact patch area is proportional to the X-sec diameter of the tire....(same overall diameter.
> ...


Also a tube adds some friction force to the situation but this is not a large difference.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

Exactly. But 20 PSI is a lot for a fatbike tire and 5 PSI is normal for soft conditions. 5 lbs/in * 4in = 20 lbs. A 20lb load from a rock strike isn't much.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

CommuterBoy said:


> I go to "squishy" PSI and then visually inspect the bead, pushing or pulling as necessary to get it set, then air up the rest of the way. I have done the explosion thing though... that will get your attention. :lol:


Yeah, I was kind of distracted at the time. I checked the bead before pumping it up all the way and fixed a spot near the valve, but I missed the spot that resulted in the blowout. It took a bit of work to get everything right the 2nd time, but I was definitely not distracted then.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

bedwards1000 said:


> Exactly. But 20 PSI is a lot for a fatbike tire and 5 PSI is normal for soft conditions. 5 lbs/in * 4in = 20 lbs. A 20lb load from a rock strike isn't much.


yup but the force is 20 lbs per inch of bead.....not 20 lbs total....a rock strike is absorbed over a several inches.

The math is correct.

Lets take a 2.2 inch tire running 18 psi tubeless....and compare that to a 4 inch tire running 2.2/4 = 10 psi.

So yes people run fat tires at lower pressures....the last difference is the fatter tire deflects more during the rock strike thereby reducing the force and increasing the time for which it acts...

Easy to understand.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

I don't think the pressure is a factor. I think if the rear tire was flat and I went skidding into an off-camber corner with the intention of peeling the tire off of the rim, it wouldn't peel off just based on the tire/rim interface being so secure. OK, MAYBE if the corner was paved. 

I don't know if all fatbike rims are similar, but these are the Rolling Darryls. The bead channel is pretty dang tight.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

It must work because people are doing it. I've also heard of people burping air out. And just like indigestion, after the first burp the second one happens easier. I guess if I think about how hard it would be to break the bead with my thumb even with just a few PSI it makes sense.

Good idea with seating it with a tube then removing it. Early on I was thinking of trying tubeless and I hadn't' seen that one. Spraying something flammable in the tire and lighting it with a match was one method that didn't seem all that, um, controlled. 




 (jump to 8:45)


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

CommuterBoy said:


> I don't think the pressure is a factor. I think if the rear tire was flat and I went skidding into an off-camber corner with the intention of peeling the tire off of the rim, it wouldn't peel off just based on the tire/rim interface being so secure. OK, MAYBE if the corner was paved.
> 
> I don't know if all fatbike rims are similar, but these are the Rolling Darryls. The bead channel is pretty dang tight.


i burp a 2.35 x 26 at 18 psi pretty regular on the trails.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Well that's because you're riding it at 18 PSI :lol: 


I've burped a 29er tire at 35 PSI... I'm just saying that the tire/bead interface on the fatty compared to a typical MTB rim is surprisingly strong.


I have seen the starting fluid explosion work to seat a Jeep tire... not gonna try it on the bike, thanks :eekster:


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Stopped in at the shop to have some brake work done. Two similar bikes, same exact Shimano Sora front brake. One caliper fits one bike, the other fits the other. It is a phenomenon according to my buddy. On the Jamis, the one caliper I have simply does not reach to put the pads all the way on the brake track no matter what he does. It hits the tire. I get home, take the front brake off the Felt, which was originally on the Jamis, and put it back on the Jamis, and boom, it fits almost perfectly. WTF?

tl;dr: I took the brakes off of fixed gear bikes that I shouldn't have. They are back on.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

TenSpeed said:


> Stopped in at the shop to have some brake work done. Two similar bikes, same exact Shimano Sora front brake. One caliper fits one bike, the other fits the other. It is a phenomenon according to my buddy. On the Jamis, the one caliper I have simply does not reach to put the pads all the way on the brake track no matter what he does. It hits the tire. I get home, take the front brake off the Felt, which was originally on the Jamis, and put it back on the Jamis, and boom, it fits almost perfectly. WTF?
> 
> tl;dr: I took the brakes off of fixed gear bikes that I shouldn't have. They are back on.


I have4 had a similar problem...

Turned out the wheels were true but not identical....on wheel was dished more than the other....that caused the brake problem

The fix was simple I just shortened up the y cable on one side and boom perfect fits.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

jeffscott said:


> I have4 had a similar problem...
> 
> Turned out the wheels were true but not identical....on wheel was dished more than the other....that caused the brake problem
> 
> The fix was simple I just shortened up the y cable on one side and boom perfect fits.


I swapped wheels. Still the same thing (I have a different front wheel on the Felt, put the stock one on) and it was the same. Manufacturer imperfection in the fork possibly?


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

TenSpeed said:


> I swapped wheels. Still the same thing (I have a different front wheel on the Felt, put the stock one on) and it was the same. Manufacturer imperfection in the fork possibly?


might be able to pick that up with a pencil or some sort of stick (fork) connected to the steerer tube


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

TenSpeed said:


> Stopped in at the shop to have some brake work done. Two similar bikes, same exact Shimano Sora front brake. One caliper fits one bike, the other fits the other. It is a phenomenon according to my buddy. On the Jamis, the one caliper I have simply does not reach to put the pads all the way on the brake track no matter what he does. It hits the tire. I get home, take the front brake off the Felt, which was originally on the Jamis, and put it back on the Jamis, and boom, it fits almost perfectly. WTF?
> 
> tl;dr: I took the brakes off of fixed gear bikes that I shouldn't have. They are back on.


Sounds odd. Manufacturing tolerances??

Another thing I find odd is that when you remove a wheel and put it back in, sometimes you need to redo the caliper mounts for the disc not to rub.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

I couldn't resist. I swapped out the Nicotines on the Unit for the stock Ardents. It is mud season after all.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

New Selle Anatomica saddle and BB7 Road calipers. My ass has never been happier, and I can stop on a dime. Switching the rotors over from Tektro Wave (which suck) to Ashima Airotors that I took in on a trade. Hopefully they'll respond better.


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## RC51 RIDER (Mar 9, 2015)

Just picked up my 2015 Giant Revel 29er and replaced the pedals and the seat ![ATTAC






]


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

^ good call on changing the saddle, that one you posted looks uncomfortable!!

Speaking of saddles, I just changed one of mine as well. 143 Specialized Phenom went on the Felt this morning. Picked it up used for a good price on a local forum. I know that a lot of cyclists use this one so I figured why not give it a shot. I have had really good luck with the Specialized saddles. Test ride will be to work today and we will see how it goes.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Tried to switch out the stock Tektro Wave rotors to Ashima Airotors last night. I couldn't get 4 rotor bolts loose on the back end. Because they're cheap steel, the T25 heads stripped out immediately. I cut slots for a flat head screwdriver, but they still wouldn't budge. I'll try heat on them this weekend. In the mean time, I sanded the rotors to try and get a little more bite.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Bedwards, I went on my first real singletrack ride on the fatbike the other day...15 miles, pushing it pretty hard, low-ish tire pressure, rocks/roots/ruts, and I wasn't being gentle or conservative in terms of worrying about burping a tire. I had no issues at all. Even got both wheels off of the ground a few times 

Just a follow-up if you're considering the tubeless route.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

Nice! I have heard that the bead interface of some tire/rim combos is so good that you barely need sealant. I'm not sure how the double wall large marge rims would convert. From what I remember there's no good way to seal around the valve stem because it seats on the outer wall but you would want to seal the inner wall. In other words - I'm not planning on it.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Ooh that's weird...so there's a big hole in the inner wall that opens up to a smaller hole in the outer wall for the valve? 

You could go with the split-tube method, which works but is kind of a pain for tire changes, and adding sealant (unless you use a tube with a removable core).


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## Biggie (Dec 11, 2004)

CommuterBoy said:


> Just a follow-up if you're considering the tubeless route.


You've got a recipe for a gallon of tubeless brew? Instead of wading though the other thread, would you please post it here?

Thanks!


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Biggie said:


> You've got a recipe for a gallon of tubeless brew? Instead of wading though the other thread, would you please post it here?
> 
> Thanks!


16 ounces of Latex Mold Builder: Castin' Craft Mold Builder
(It's just Liquid Latex suspended in Ammonia)

One big bottle (24 ounces) of AUTOMOTIVE "Slime". Important that it's the automotive version with the little black dots in it (a fine chunkulatory additive). The bike stuff and the "wheel sensor safe" stuff is too thin.

**disclaimer - Wade's original recipe uses less of the slime (16 ounces). I added the rest of the bottle for the full 24 ounces)

32 ounces of water

16 ounces of Ethylene Glycol antifreeze (I use the traditional green EG antifreeze, other people swear by the Propylene Glycol stuff (more expensive). When you use a non-tubeless tire with a thinner sidewall, the seepage you get at the threads/bead is obviously antifreeze related...it's the thin green liquid. Some guys swear the PG antifreeze seeps less. Only a factor with some tires.

So ratio-wise, we got:

1 part Latex Mold Builder
1.5 parts Auto Slime
2 parts water
1 part antifreeze.

I have experimented with various chunkulatory additives: Dryer lint, bits of frayed nylon rope, glitter, and pencil sharpener shavings. My favorite is the pencil sharpener shavings. I think this stuff helps holes to seal up quicker, but I haven't gotten scientific about it. I add a bit of the chunkulatory-additive-of-the-day in the tire before I seat the bead, but on top-offs I don't bother (I use the stans valve stems and the stans injector). I have left the additive out altogether quite a bit also, and it works fine without.

I mix it up in a big bucket, and store it sealed in an old antifreeze jug (1 gal)... it does not settle out, and keeps for at least a couple years with no issues.

OH, when you mix it up: Start with the Latex, then add the water and mix thoroughly... then add the slime, then add the antifreeze last. If you add the antifreeze directly to the latex, you get a big worthless wet bouncy ball.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

CommuterBoy said:


> Ooh that's weird...so there's a big hole in the inner wall that opens up to a smaller hole in the outer wall for the valve?
> 
> You could go with the split-tube method, which works but is kind of a pain for tire changes, and adding sealant (unless you use a tube with a removable core).


That's what I remember. A big hole and a little hole. And when the ridged rim strip slips it slices through the tube at the valve stem. IDK, maybe it wasn't like that. I was looking at it in a "I've never had a flat in 2 years and now I have 2 flats, 1 tube and a race a few days away" kind of way.

^^So it looks like you just made 5-1/2 lbs of sealant. (not counting the pencil sharpener shavings)


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

After 5 winters I had to replace the derailleur pulleys on my Deore, because they were _done_.

I'd bought a spare set of Shinamo pulleys years ago, and they'd been sitting in my parts bin just waiting for this occassion...but they don't fit? Actually, the top one fits, but the lower one is too wide for some reason? Even though the tooth count is the same, and this is just a plain vanilla deore?

WTF Shimano?

I can understand that cycling is cursed with British/Italian/French standards, because of course they were never going to get along. But what's your problem Shimano? How can you make something as simple as pulleys so complicated?









(I'd actually discovered it wouldn't fit a couple of weeks ago, and had ordered some generic $5 alloy sealed-bearing pulleys from ebay, and those fit just fine)


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Overhauled my Alfine 11 after about 750 miles or so (first service). Per other peoples' experience, I opened the hub completely to clean it out, and I have to say, I was struck by just how dirty it wasn't. Yes, the oil was contaminated by wear particles and a few odd shavings here or there, but otherwise, everything was perfect. Greased up the outer bearings with marine grease, and sealed it up. After a hard winter, the only rust I could find was a tiny bit on the cassette joint lock.

Also installed a new chain (wippermann) and stuck some more amber square reflective dealies on my rack. Looking forward to a good (fingers crossed) commute tomorrow.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Switched out rotors and changed rear tube. 

Went from stock Tektro Wave rotors to Ashima Airotors. I had intended to do it weeks ago, but when I went to swap the rear, I stripped four of the T25 heads. Went and picked up a stripped screw extractor set, which only made the stripped head bigger. Finally pulled out the Dremel and cut the bolt heads off and pulled the rotor. The heat from the cutting wheel loosened the bolts, so they came right out. 

New rotors are noisier, but not in a bad way. They don't squeal or anything, just more of a grinding noise when braking. But, they work so much better that I'm totally okay with it.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Washed and waxed 2 of 3 bikes. It's too early, and things are bound to be sloppy this week, but I'll try to stick with my remaining dirty bike until things have really cleared up.


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## santa cruzer73 (Oct 22, 2013)

Replace my warn out Oury lock ons with some ESI extra chunky. Really like the feel of these grips and looking forward to the morning commute!!!!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Put my Jamis Sonik up for sale. Something has caught my eye and my attention and it should be a great match for me.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

The Unit went back to single speed this week. Added a picnic basket.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Finally got the tube changed out on the Jamis. I completely hate changing tubes. I decided that after the first time in my life doing it, and nothing has changed since. That is why it just sat there, flat as a board. I never trust the new tube. I have extremely weak hands and it shows when getting the tire back on the wheel. I inevitably end up using a tire lever to get it back on which I know that you should not do because you run the risk of damaging that new tube. There doesn't seem to be a better option, so I play roulette when changing a tube and hope for the best. I have checked it 6 times in the last 20 minutes to just see if it is holding air. Quickly found out how dirty my drivetrain is so that will need to be addressed as well. Got the wheel centered and chain tension is good so I am just going to leave it for now. Will try a few wipe downs of the chain and see where that gets me.


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## dfp23 (Aug 27, 2013)

*Built one...*









2015 Salsa Fargo in Ti


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## BCTJ (Aug 22, 2011)

I bought a cover for my bike to protect it from the snow/rain/sun. Unfortunately, it isn't possible to lock the cover with anything, so, I'm hoping that the cameras at the train station,where I park it, will be enough to prevent people from stealing it. Here's hoping.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

I made some swaps on the fatbike with things I had laying around... 185 rotor up front (seems to me that all fatbikes should have at least 180's from the factory, but that's just me. I had the Avid adapter for the BB7's and the rotor, so easy to do. If I can find a rear adapter I'll do that one too. Also put on a wider bar to help wrestle that fat front end around, and some Avid brake levers that were slightly better than the ones that came on it (mine had the reach adjustment, etc). It's slowly becoming my own...


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Swapped the skinny 23mm slicks for my 32mm tiny knobbies (small diamond file tread). I enjoy the cushier ride, and I'm not racing anybody. Hell, I'm usually the only commuter I see.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Began the tear down of the Jamis. Long story, will divulge more information later.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

TenSpeed said:


> Began the tear down of the Jamis. Long story, will divulge more information later.


Stop taunting us already!


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## BCTJ (Aug 22, 2011)

This morning, just as I was pulling into the train station, I heard a big crunching sound. I looked up the road and, sure enough, one car had just backed smack into the bumper of another car. As the distressed drivers got out of their cars, I thought, thats another very nice reason to commute by bike.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

I swear that I should just run studs and gears all year, because when I have a quiet bike I just obsess over all of the little sounds that it makes.

And a new one popped up a couple of days ago. It's a periodic clunk/click that only happens when I'm going fairly fast - whether or not I'm pedaling, whether or not I'm seated, whether or not I'm applying the breaks, and I can't duplicate it by just spinning the wheels...

And after puzzling over it a bit, I think the presta valve locknut was a bit loose.

These are the things that bug me.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^Funny, I had a "new" rattle the other day, and wondered if it is just noticeable because I am no longer wearing a hat, fleece "cat ears" on the helmet, etc.!


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

Blue grips and rim tape. I also sprayed the backs of my pads with anti squeak. Damn things vibrated unreal. Hope this saves me from having to buy shimanos.

Also the 160 front rotor i think has to go. Needs to be at least 180. Or 200 frnt 180 rear


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

newfangled said:


> I swear that I should just run studs and gears all year, because when I have a quiet bike I just obsess over all of the little sounds that it makes.
> 
> And a new one popped up a couple of days ago. It's a periodic clunk/click that only happens when I'm going fairly fast - whether or not I'm pedaling, whether or not I'm seated, whether or not I'm applying the breaks, and I can't duplicate it by just spinning the wheels...
> 
> ...


That's why I don't use them. I've run into that issue before, and haven't had any issues without them.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

solarplex said:


> Blue grips and rim tape. I also sprayed the backs of my pads with anti squeak. Damn things vibrated unreal. Hope this saves me from having to buy shimanos.


I put the goopy version of anti-squeak on the back of some pads a few years ago, and it really didn't help. And the winter after that, my pistons were all corroded and pitted:


__
https://flic.kr/p/e7ZED7

They were unrecoverable, and I had to replace them.

I don't actually know if that was at all related to the antisqueak - there was a whole year of other abuse thrown in there, so it definitely could have been coincidence - but I haven't had that happen before or since.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

newfangled said:


> I put the goopy version of anti-squeak on the back of some pads a few years ago, and it really didn't help. And the winter after that, my pistons were all corroded and pitted:
> 
> 
> __
> ...


This was blue aerosol stuff. If they implode they are getting switched to shimano. My cheapo br-m446 ones on my 29er have been flawless


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

Well i was going to sell my 98 moab. I have halo twin rails tires on it , comfort seat and am going to keep it for my park bike for pulling the kid trailer. Just bought a white ridged fork for it as im too heavy for the old judy c shocks.









Should give me more piece of mind locking it up places than my 29er and fatbike.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

solarplex said:


> This was blue aerosol stuff. If they implode they are getting switched to shimano. My cheapo br-m446 ones on my 29er have been flawless


I used something like this, although I can't remember the brand. And I have no idea if it actually contributed to the corrosion or not - it could have just been a coincidence. The main thing was that it didn't actually silence the brakes for more than a ride or two.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

So the Jamis project, or Project Stripper is on. Details and pictures to follow. Oh, and it is not taunting. I am definitely teasing.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Swapped the conti wintercontact tires today for marathon racers and changed the front rotor from a 180mm to a 200mm one. And while I was at it, adjusted the chain tension. Bike is now ready for spring.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

Laced a new 10-speed compatible hub to my existing rear commuter rim. Need to stop at the coop so I can tension it, dish it, and true it. Then the new cassette, chain, rear and rear derailleur will be installed and it will back up and running. 

And tenspeed, taunting/teasing. You know what I meant


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I know. 

It is coming. You will see. Let's say that there will be a pretty decent change.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

solarplex said:


> Also the 160 front rotor i think has to go. Needs to be at least 180. Or 200 frnt 180 rear


I am much happier with the 185 on the front of my Mukluk. I left the 160 in the rear and for my taste, it's plenty...but the 160 on the front was questionable from the get-go. FYI for the BB7's (if that's what you have?) the 160 rear adapter can be used as a 180 or 185 front adapter... you have to move a washer from one side of the caliper bolt to the other to use it with a 185, but it works great.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

CommuterBoy said:


> I am much happier with the 185 on the front of my Mukluk. I left the 160 in the rear and for my taste, it's plenty...but the 160 on the front was questionable from the get-go. FYI for the BB7's (if that's what you have?) the 160 rear adapter can be used as a 180 or 185 front adapter... you have to move a washer from one side of the caliper bolt to the other to use it with a 185, but it works great.


Yah a 20mm IS bracket? I looked and the front was a zero for the 160. Mec was no help but chain reaction cycles specs what size you need for what rotors.

My 29er has a 180 front and seems great. The 160 front is a bit small


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Makes sense if it's a 20mm, if the 160 front is zero... I bought some BB7's not long ago and in each box was the caliper, the 180 rotor I ordered, and 3 or 4 adapters... so I wound up with several unused adapters in a drawer. For the front of the Mukluk, I went hunting in my drawer for a 180 front, and no dice... so I tried several until I landed on one that worked... it says "180 rear" on it.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

What I have left to do must be done at the shop as I do not have the proper tool to do it. Vague enough? Should be done Friday.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Sounds like a face and chase. I love super specific tools, but even I can't justify $3-400 for each of them.

I changed my tires to my 42mm Conti tourrides. I forgot how much I like them as a general purpose tire. A bit squirrelly off road without real side knobs, but they more than make up for it on mixed surfaces. Took some singletrack on the way home , and they hooked up with aplomb over hard pack/rocks.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Pulled the Texas flag stickers off the downtube and placed one my phone, and the other on the top tube just behind the Drunk Cyclist sticker. Also dropped my saddle height a few mm. I've used all of the fitting resources, but haven't found the sweet spot that doesn't cause knee pain, ankle pain, or effect my power output. I really need to shell out the cash for a fit, but I'm cheap. Hopefully it'll work.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

TenSpeed said:


> What I have left to do must be done at the shop as I do not have the proper tool to do it. Vague enough? Should be done Friday.


This is a lot of build up and suspense for some sick tassels and a small front wheel.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Rustedthrough said:


> This is a lot of build up and suspense for some sick tassels and a small front wheel.


Who told you???????


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

Rustedthrough said:


> This is a lot of build up and suspense for some sick tassels and a small front wheel.


Haha! Springer front fork and a banana seat perhaps?


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Ice Cube said it best - today was a good day. Headed down to my buddies shop after loading up the car. Wait. Why? Oh yeah, I didn't know how to do something specific nor did I have the tool. After he completed it, I finished the rest with some little tips and tricks from him. I am very lucky to have resources like this so close to my commute and it is a really cool place to hang out.

Frame swap from the Jamis to a 2011 Felt TK2. I don't know how to pull the bottom bracket or the cranks, so that was done. I swapped the rest over, and my buddy got the new chain set up properly. Previous chain was way too short since the rear wheel tucked quite a bit more. Picked up the frame from Craigslist this past weekend on my trip to Chicago. Didn't want to jinx myself so I kept it quiet. Came with the carbon aero seatpost, frame, fork and FSA headset. We added the FSA carbon cranks, the bottom bracket, the American Classic wheels and the rest of the cockpit including the brake from the Jamis. It was a pretty simple swap.

It rides like an absolute dream so far. Took it out for the maiden voyage tonight with my Friday night group ride. Of course they ended up off road on a bike trail, and I went right with them, 23's and all. Just a little dusty right now so I will clean it up and ride it to work tomorrow. Pictures do not do this bike any justice. It turned out absolutely beautiful.

Oh, here is the weight. 










Tassles and banana seat not installed, yet.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

^ You built that up without having to use your AK?

It is a thing of beauty, nothing at all like what comes to mind when one says "commuter" to me, but gorgeous all the same.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Thanks!! Yep, that is how I commute. I am so not the typical commuter from what I have seen. No racks, fenders, panniers, Dynamo hubs, IGH, no bright green clothing. I can be found passing cars in the lane rolling at 25+ mph for a good portion of the commute.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

^^ Nice build. The days of my keeping up with traffic are gone, it seems. At that time the Duchess was fenderless, just a rear reflector and just under 20 pounds (light for a large framed 10 speed in 1982). I left with dawn and home before dusk, so no lights. Though it was a 2 x 5 (48/42 & 14-21), it was mostly in 48/14 and 48/17 in flat Champaign, IL. Five years ago, I had the Schwinn errand bike in stripped down form (just built) and keeping up with traffic here on its maiden ride, but I had a tail wind. Stay safe. Have fun.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

She's a beaut. Certainly not the conventional commuter by any means but its a really sharp bike. Looks fun.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Thanks guys! Rode it today, and it was a blast. The bike just goes fast. I don't have to do much to get it there either. Oh, and I ordered a set of GatorSkins for it at the shop. I opted for the middle of the line Gators, not the regular ones I have on the other Felt and not the full on heavy version. These Vittoria Rubino slicks are great but offer little if any flat protection. Going to be taking this to Chicago at the end of next month and need something a little beefier for the streets.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Installed a Garmin 500. The new Soma tires (reflective sidewalls) did not arrive in a week so I removed the front tire cut just above the bead (700-28), moved the rear forward (same size and model) and installed a spare 700-32 (same tire just bigger) on the rear with brand new tubes (retiring patched ones) and polished the fenders where salt affected the brass, straightened and realigned both fenders as they had a tendency to shift and drag on the tires. Pretty boring stuff, just a nice spring cleaning.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

^^ Some major spring cleaning on the Ogre this past weekend. I finally pulled off the Serfas Drifter tires... probably 5k miles on them, and tons of life left. All kinds of little wet spots all over from various punctures (tubeless), but they were still rolling strong. I had some Vee Rubber "Race v" tires that I got on a clearance from Pricepoint, so I threw those on, sort of on a whim... I was always a big fan of the Drifters, but now I realize how heavy they were. Oh my, these Vee's are light. :lol: There is some tread so you'd think rolling resistance would be more, but I averaged 18mph on the 10 mile commute the first time I rode them on Monday. 

Also installed some new pads on the BB7's, cleaned up the accumulated winter crud, and the Ogre feels like a new bike. I want to pull the fenders off, but I know that will make a storm blow in, so I'm holding off.


Edit: That felt is beautiful. Looks fast and fun.


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

*Tubeless 700x28's*

Installed Hutchinson Sector 28 tubeless tires on my retired Bontrager Race X Lite wheelset and popped them on the commuter. Dropped over 3 pounds from the previous wheels/tires. Pretty great so far!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Alright, so I am gonna tell a little story here. I stopped in at the shop Monday because my front wheel was showing some wobble signs. The roads here are absolute garbage and sometimes riding on them compares to the streets of Baghdad. Anyway, my buddy threw it in the stand and check the spoke tension. 2 bent spokes, 2 cracked nipples. Great. OK. Tell him I will be back Wednesday with the wheel on my day off. Strap the wheel to my bag because I have no sort of rack or anything on my bike and ride down there. Now, this is why you want to have a good relationship with your LBS. He made not one, but two calls to American Classic with questions and information regarding my wheels. The red AC's come on the 2009 Jamis Sonik which I have now retired. The guy at AC knew that, called it when the wheel was described to him. My buddy was just trying to get information on what nipples to use and the spoke length. After some discussion, it turns out that I apparently have the golden unicorn of wheels according to the guy at AC. These wheels came with silver spokes, silver nipples. Mine has silver spokes, red nipples. Now, they are not generic nipples nor are they generic spokes. They are actual AC branded nipples and spokes confirmed by the AC guy. Well, they don't have any red nipples to replace these with because they were never offered with them. They have also moved to a black spoke now and don't have the silver. They are sending replacement packs of nipples and spokes to the shop for me no charge. The spokes near the valve will be removed, and black ones put on in their place along with the nipples. The spokes that get removed will replace the bent ones. 

At first, I was really bummed since the red matches the bike so well and looks nice. Then I find this information out that I have these wheels that never were made. That cheered me up some. The previous owner must have had some sort of connection or worked for AC or something. I bought the bike on eBay and cannot contact the seller about it but I would like to. 

Since this is the what did you do to your commuter thread, I did change the saddle out today while I was there for a black Specialized Phenom with the red underbody. I like the Phenom on my other Felt so when this popped up on my local forum, it was a no brainer. Mounted my saddle rail bottle cage on there as well, which did not fit on the Selle San Marco that was on there.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

Now THAT'S a commute friendly front wheel


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I took the Selle Anatomica saddle off and put the Toupe back on. The skin of the Anatomica had stretched to the point that I was bottoming out on the seat post. I'll send it in to get a new skin soon. Until then, commuting will be a little less comfortable.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Kleebs said:


> Now THAT'S a commute friendly front wheel


I prefer to ride that front wheel only when there is a huge crosswind. :cornut:


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

front xtr brake caliper....has increased the leak rate to an unacceptable level...

Usually a mountain ride about 1000 ft of steep descent will clean it up for quite a while....

Squeaking and slipping back after one day...

I have some spare calipers so I will change it up soon.

Finally died after some 45000 kms....beginning to seem like my XTR set-up is gonna give up the ghost totally at just about 50,000 km and 8 years.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> I took the Selle Anatomica saddle off and put the Toupe back on. The skin of the Anatomica had stretched to the point that I was bottoming out on the seat post. I'll send it in to get a new skin soon. Until then, commuting will be a little less comfortable.


I don't like the sound of that. Mine has been using more adjustment than my Brooks, but has a bit of travel left. Will Selle replace it under warranty?


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Rustedthrough said:


> I don't like the sound of that. Mine has been using more adjustment than my Brooks, but has a bit of travel left. Will Selle replace it under warranty?


They're meant to stretch out, which is why there is the adjustment bolt. This saddle is almost 10 years old, before Anatomica began reinforcing the top hide with some stiff grain stuff to increase life. The guy I got it from used it to bike tour Australia, Europe, and the US. I've put about 1,000 miles since, and I'm a heavy guy. I could still ride it, but would rather just send it off rather than get butt punched every time I forget to raise up on a bump.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

^ Thanks for clarifying Texan. I didn't realize your Selle was a well worn vintage model. I'll quit worrying about mine.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Yeah, you've got nothing to worry about. Most report 15-20,000 miles before replacement time comes around. I think you've got some time.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> I could still ride it, but would rather just send it off rather than get butt punched every time I forget to raise up on a bump.


:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Swapped my on one midge for a salsa woodchipper today. The woodchipper is much wider on the tops and way more comfy for my hands. And the drops are longer than on the midge too, although a pair of controltech terminators could have solved that.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ just this week I think I've finally fallen in love with my woodchipper.

It replaced a midge a year ago, and I immediately liked it more than the midge, but there was still always something "off" about it. (Guitar Ted - who is an expert on these things - thinks that the drop radius is fundamentally flawed).

But after trying it a million different ways, I'm now super happy with it. My problem was using this post from Salsa as a baseline, but my final "happy" setup is completely different from that. I've actually got it angled at 40deg, so the tops are basically horizontal.

But yeah - drops, hoods, tops, extensions are all usable - I'm totally digging it.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

after the first test ride around the house I already thought about the same thing. Will definitely need some tweaking.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

And just to explain that a little bit more...with the bar angled down at 20deg like in the salsa link I don't find the hooks very comfortable. I thought the bar was generally comfortable, but I didn't use the hooks and spent all of my time riding far down on the drop extensions. I totally agreed with Guitar Ted's complaint about the radius being wrong.

Same thing with the bar at 15deg, and 28deg (which is how I ran it most), and even at 35deg. But one day I rotated it way out to 40deg, and suddenly the hooks just magically worked.

Here was my post about that: http://forums.mtbr.com/commuting/what-have-you-done-your-commuter-today-892708-44.html#post11805023

I've moved the levers a little higher since then, but the bar has stayed at 40deg.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

Aliexpress fork for the old 98 schwinn moab. The judy c fork is not worth servicing.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

Yahhhh. First fork change over.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Wrecked it. Hit a pothole that I never saw. Went over the bars, pinched the front tire, possibly bent the front wheel, ripped the bar tape and scraped the bars after it came down on top of me. Road rash on my right forearm all the way to near my elbow, right shoulder and bruised my head as my helmet hit the ground with my head still in it. Bike was abe to be ridden home luckily since I was not far from home, in fact, on the same road where I got a flat Thursday night and walked it home. So far I can tell that I need a new helmet since I gashed this one pretty good and it is a few years old, new bar tape, new tube and the front wheel to be adjusted at the shop more than likely.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^ Oh no, that is not good, Tenspeed. I hope you and the bike heal up OK. Potholes aarrgh!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Thanks, a bit sore this morning and that road rash is throbbing. Didn't sleep well because I couldn't roll over on my right side at all. Gonna take a few days off from riding I think to just regroup a bit. Storms all weekend so driving to work won't be an issue. Pumped up the tire last night and all was fine. Checked it this morning, flat as a pancake. Oh well.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

The road rash sucks, Tenspeed, but at least it is not on your face (Or gouged bad enough to need stitches and no concussion ie knocked out). So there is some comfort in knowing it could have been a lot worse. (Broken collar bones are common, too). Then there is the luck of no vehicle to run you over. So, I'm sorry for the injuries but very glad they were not a lot worse having endured that. BTW helmets are history after a hard blow with no cosmetic damage. They compress just once and lose most of their protection.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

Yikes! On the new felt no less? That sucks. Glad to hear your injuries weren't more serious. Think of it this way, now you get to go new part shopping!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

This was on the older one actually. Still need to get a new helmet. Threw the old one out so that I was not tempted to wear it again even though it fit like a glove and was super comfortable.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Checked the chain. Have you? Time for a new one on the Fort.


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## Sgraffite (Oct 6, 2014)

Broke the left rail on my seat:


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Big day for me, and my wallet is a bit lighter now.

Front American Classic wheel - bent spokes replaced, nipples replaced, wheel completely trued and properly tensioned, now have black spokes where the valve is with silver nipples vs silver spokes and red nipples on the rest of the wheel, new Continental Gatorskin 700x23 (folding) to replace Vittoria Rubino slick.

Rear American Classic wheel - bent spokes replaced, nipples replaced, wheel completely trued and properly tensioned, now have black spokes where the valve is with silver nipples vs silver spokes and red nipples on the rest of the wheel, new Continental Gatorskin 700x23 (folding) to replace Vittoria Rubino slick.

Felt front wheel trued as much as possible, wheel inspected for damage after my crash, new tube (old one popped right on the seam so fixing it is a waste of time, original Continental Gatorskin 700x23 reinstalled by me along with the tube.

Picked up a few extra tubes since I am just about out after this rash of bad luck I have had last week down at the shop while I picked up the wheels from my buddy. American Classic was nice enough to send the spokes and nipples to the shop at no charge for me. I now have extras just in case which hopefully I will not need. As soon as I am done writing this, with a full belly from lunch, I am going to put all the wheels back on the bikes and get the chain adjusted. Bar tape was saved using black electrical tape where the damage is. That will be replaced down the road, and a new helmet will be purchased later. For now, I have a duplicate helmet just in white that I will use. The amount of money I have spent recently has me reeling and I need to get my budget back in line.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

*Wish List Status*

Aborted: Plan to mount Soma Xpress reflective sidewall tires as they no longer exist. (Hint order Soma stuff through your LBS or from American Cyclery San Francisco, it will be easier than directly from Somafab based on my experience).

Alternate plan: Trying out a Pasela PT on the rear as the non reflective Xpress tires are also gone. It seems to ride better than the Pasela TG, so far.

Completed: The plan to mount Brooks handlebar tape. (Good hiding spot). Mounted over the old padded tape for more cushion. Not for your stored outside uncovered commuter. Here is hoping for no OTB's and ruining it.

Not on Wish List: 
1. Replaced the helmet umbilical power cord (died).

2. The headlight battery lead out was re-soldered (broke free - died).

3. A new lead with switch was installed for the tail light so it could stay wired to the battery and save wear on that lead from plugging-unplugging.

4. The new improved HotShot seat post mount was installed returning QR anti theft feature (had it screwed into a spare PB mount).

Most of this was fighting the Second Law of Thermodynamics and the descent into chaos!


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Cleaned the muck off my dedicated "muck" bike for the first time in probably two years. So now it can rain.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Tweaked around with my handlebar setup -again- . This time I put my brake levers a little higher up on the woodchipper. Hope this will do. Will wrap two layers of tape later today and will put a new chain on it. Maybe even a new front chainring. The current one is made of aluminium, will probably be worn now after 1500 miles. I hope I will find one made out of steel, this helds up way longer.


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## WiTrailRunner (Mar 1, 2011)

My wallet is also a lot lighter after this weekend.

I finally (after a year of owning my bike) scheduled a bike fitting. I was too lazy to drive the 5 hours up to Minneapolis to get my free fitting where I actually bought the bike, so I paid for one down here. I desperately needed a new saddle too, so I knew it would be an expensive visit. Wound up walking away with a shorter stem and a Brooks Cambium saddle, but a much happier body. I did 45 miles on Saturday with the new set up and so far so good. My ass has never been better!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

^ that saddle looks great on there. Driving 5 hours for a "free" fitting is no longer free. 10 hour round trip with gas and mileage on the car vs paying for a local one? I don't blame you at all. Props for the white bar tap as well, it takes some dedication to run that.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

That brooks does look great. The next time one of my saddles fails (which seems to be ~every 2 years) I'm seriously going to consider a cambium. I'm just worried that after that I'll want one for all 3 of my bikes, and I'm not sure I'm up for that much of an investment.


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## WiTrailRunner (Mar 1, 2011)

Thanks, TenSpeed! That's my original bar tape. Still white!



newfangled said:


> That brooks does look great. The next time one of my saddles fails (which seems to be ~every 2 years) I'm seriously going to consider a cambium. I'm just worried that after that I'll want one for all 3 of my bikes, and I'm not sure I'm up for that much of an investment.


This is my first Brooks and it's insanely comfortable compared to the Specialized saddle I was riding. $180 a pop ain't cheap, but I really love it so far. I'll be curious to hear if you eventually bite the bullet too.


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## Jacobray (Jun 4, 2014)

Added a rack and trunk bag finally. I had to use some p-clamps from the hardware store around the chainstays to attach the rack to, but seems to work fine so far.

Also, my buddy didn't like his selle Italia slr...so I'm giving that a shot.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Did this a week back, but I learned how to sew because my saddle bags were coming undone at the stitching on the bottom of the bag so that stuff could fall out. It's held up pretty well, so I'm happy with myself. Never sewn anything besides a button before, but back stitching isn't too hard once you get the hang of it (only took me about 2.5 - 3 hours to stitch a 6 inch segment).


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

Disassembled, cleaned and re-adjusted all the I-Drive pivots on my GT Sensor. It was creaking so bad on the last ride I thought the bearings or BB was toast. At least on the test ride the creaking was gone. Yeah!! I may have to do the same on my other GT sensor. It was quite a bit easier than expected.


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## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)

added a milk crate , some lights and a safety reflector( grandfather of reflective triangles) that I picked up at a thrift store for a $1.50


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Nice! Used to do the milk crate thing a couple years ago. I do and don't miss it. There was always something about it that made handling all wonky.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Built up a set of custom fenders for a friend. Sassafras, might be replacing my maple fenders with the same.

Against some very good advice, my Unit is getting a set of Woodchippers. I had intended to put them on the Bosanova, and might still if they don't serve on the Unit.

The Bosanova will go 1x10 as soon as the LBS is finished with the Unit.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I like the woodchipper, but it eventually led to me swapping my Unit for a Gryphon, so be careful. 

And those fenders are great.

and edited to add - this might be worth a look: http://forums.mtbr.com/salsa/woodchipper-set-up-fargo-970845.html


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I had a hard time passing this up. Found this on the rack at an LBS while visiting Chicago. Felt bikes are carried by a few shops in the city which is always good. I don't know what bike it originally came off of, or if it was available on their site at one time, but I cannot find it on their site currently. I have inquired with them to find out what it came off of. To say that it is a perfect match to my bike would be an understatement. As far as I can tell, it is NOT the stock stem that came on the bike based on stock photos I have found on Google. It had a smaller stack than the Ritchey that came off so I added a spacer. This might completely dial the fit of the bike in. Can I be done already????


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Rustedthrough said:


> Built up a set of custom fenders for a friend. Sassafras, might be replacing my maple fenders with the same.
> 
> Against some very good advice, my Unit is getting a set of Woodchippers. I had intended to put them on the Bosanova, and might still if they don't serve on the Unit.
> 
> The Bosanova will go 1x10 as soon as the LBS is finished with the Unit.


Woodchippers just seem a bad idea with wood fenders.


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## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)

figured out where to mount my u-lock and my tool bag


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## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)

made some craptastic fenders out of some cheap bell mud guards. a piece of inner tube, piece of a license plate and plastic cut from an empty antifreeze bottle.....


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## Sgraffite (Oct 6, 2014)

Added a license plate, luckily the tags are still good for another 77 years.









Looks like somebody has a flat tire.


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## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)




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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Still fiddling with the Woodchippers. The current set of angles is perfect for the wrist, and works well in the drops (where I don't spend much time), but is hard on the meat at the base of the thumb.

Not in these pics, I switched it back to 1x9, mounting the old mtb shifter off the stem with a hose clamp, a length of dowel and a bolt.

And then there are new fenders. The omnipresent rain here lately has been flushing debris, sand, pebbles, and leaves, etc across the MUP. Commuterizing the Unit for the work commute seemed like a good solution.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I despise fenders with a passion, but man, those are pretty sweet!! I feel you on the rain. Enough already right?


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Thanks Tenspeed, they came out pretty well. If I can't put up hay, I might as well bend wood.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Wait, you did those yourself????


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

TenSpeed said:


> Wait, you did those yourself????


Those are the fourth set of steam bent fenders I have made. I'm still working out the best combination of of the shelf and custom hardware for the wooden bodies.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Major props!!!! Hand built and they look absolutely perfect. Really nice work!


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Rustedthrough said:


> Those are the fourth set of steam bent fenders I have made.


:eekster: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## SlipSpace (Feb 3, 2014)

Just picked up a 1991 (I think) Raleigh Scorpio 'Racing' bike. Me and my 11 year old daughter set about stripping the wheels and cranks and regreasing the spindles and bearings etc. Stripped the derailleurs off and converted to single speed, fitted some mudguards (fenders), changed the bars from the flats it came with back to some drops I had kicking around and basically got it ready to roll.

Nice cheap commuter (£30 or so all in) and a good bonding/learning exercise with the littlun too.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

I put a tarp over it, because it has to stay outside now and it's supposed to hella rain all over the place with wind and stuff tonight. Don't like keeping it outside, but a tarp is better'n nuffin.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Dropped a few gears off the Bosanova. Now a 1x10 with a 42 tooth ring up front. The ride to the grocery and liquor stores felt like lightning, tomorrow's commute will be enlightening.

Nice score Slipspace, that would be 30 pounds well spent for the experience alone.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

New bar, new tape:



__
https://flic.kr/p/v9g1hK


__
https://flic.kr/p/v8sqGw

When I built this bike I'd always planned on trying white tape, and now that I have...meh. The pictures actually look pretty good, but in real-life I don't think it works. I might definitely swap back to black, and try the white stuff on my bridgestone.

The bar is the Origin8 Gary Sweep OS (no idea what that means), which replaces my Salsa Woodchipper. It's funny because I'd ordered it a month ago and it took forever to arrive, and in the meantime I'd found the perfect setting for the Woodchipper, and had spent the last 3 weeks sortof debating whether I'd even try the new bar?

But so far the Gary Sweep OS is great. It's much more intuitive and immediately comfortable than the Woodchipper. It's actually a really nice and "neutral" dirt drop bar - not stubby like the midge, or generally weird like the woodchipper.

One of my ongoing issues with the woodchipper is break-reach, particularly when I'm wearing my winter gloves. This bar fixes that. It does have quite a bit more overall reach than the woodchipper, but so far I'm using the same stem and haven't felt the need to swap on a shorter one from the partsbin.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Bought some drops from my buddy at the shop. FSA Energy New Ergo in a 42cm. Test fit and rode them a couple of miles and they will work for me. I will wrap them on Saturday but unsure on the color of tape. I have a few ideas that I want to play with.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

I went to my lbs yesterday to get new cableconnectors for my taillight. I just wanted to buy them and fix it mayself. But they had a trainee there and he did it at once. At the end it was even for free, because when he was finished, they had closed the cash desk already. And we had a nice chat about my bike too, there was arainshower passing through and I was not very eager to go out at that moment.

@newfangled: how is your new bar now? I am not happy with the midge too (too narrow at the hoods) and the woodchipper (can't get all angles right). So I am on the lookout for another bar too. Am even thinking of taking a "normal" compact roadbar.



newfangled said:


> New bar, new tape:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ honestly, it is fantastic! I've been riding with the Gary Sweep OS all week, but this morning I did my first big 3+ hour trail ride with it and I loved it.

I like the midge. I like the woodchipper. But this should be THE standard for all dirtdrops.

The drops are super comfy like the midge. There are half-a-dozen good hand positions like the woodchipper. I don't know why it took so long for a company to come out with a bar like this, but I cannot say enough good things about it.

The only caveat is the reach - if you're already too stretched out, this will probably make it worse. (but saying that, I feel less stretched out than I did with the woodchipper, even though the Sweep looks like it's an inch longer)


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Was doing some work on my fixie, and decided to take the fenders off:



__
https://flic.kr/p/uZMQTz

The fenders gave it a nice retro look, but they also rattled and packed up with garbage because the clearance was so tight. This year is apparently the year of absolutely zero rain around here, so I figured why not.

I always knew the rear rack was ugly, but this also makes me realize that v-brakes are pretty ugly too. So the fenders may or may not stay off.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Hey Newfangled, that looks nice just as it is now. Are those tires Schwalbe Big Apples?

After 1500miles I put a new chain on my bike yesterday. Cog and Chainring did not show any sign of wear after I cleaning, so it was done quickly. After that I decided to clean the entire bike. That was the first time I cleaned it this year I think (and may be also the last time I cleaned it.....)


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Pulled the woodchippers and put on these Origin8 space bars, upside down. The strange swoop angles work perfectly for my beat up wrists, and did less strange things to reach and such than the woodchippers did on a 29er. 

Discovered that the County parks kept their promise by installing repair stations along the MUP, complete with tools. The rack will even hold bigger tires (though not fat tires).

Flipped the origin8s when I got home from a 50 mile day, and rode around the neighborhood watching the fireworks for about two hours until I got bored with fireworks.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

__
https://flic.kr/p/vQ4pad

Since I now had a spare woodchipper I swapped that onto my fixie and retired the midge to the partsbin. I really liked the midge on this bike so I was a little hesitant, but I figured why not?

And after a week of it, I think I like the woodchipper more. The wide top is such a nice change from the midge, and the whole thing raises me up a bit more. The drops are a little sketchier, but this bike is 95% top & hoods.

And this leaves me in a weird position. For the last year I'd been messing with the woodchipper at least every other week; and for the year before that it was the midge; and for honestly the last 4 or 5 years I've been generally messing around with handlebars and stems ever since I had some forearm and wrist issues.

Messing around with handlebars is what I do. But right now all three of my bikes are in states of zen-like perfection. It's weird to be content.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Sold it. Goodbye friend. You were a great bike to ride. May you continue to be ridden by my buddy and taken well care of.


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## Chippertheripper (Sep 10, 2014)

New hoops and cranks.










So...now that the tubes are gone, I found out what pressure the 37's blow off the rims...about 70. I had been running them pretty hard at 105, just like my road bike, but really, where should I be at with going tubeless? I want to be efficient, the bike rides smoothly enough on its own.


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## Texico (Feb 23, 2009)

Chippertheripper said:


> So...now that the tubes are gone, I found out what pressure the 37's blow off the rims...about 70. I had been running them pretty hard at 105, just like my road bike, but really, where should I be at with going tubeless? I want to be efficient, the bike rides smoothly enough on its own.


Wow you were running them SUPER hard. I just put some Schwalbe Marathon Supremes (700x35) on my bike and did a 50 miler with them at 40psi and it felt pretty damn good. Maybe just a bit higher in the rear. I used to run some Clement X'plor USH at around 60psi but that was way too high as well. They performed best around 45psi for me (also the 35 width).

--Edit-- I forgot to mention these pressures are WITH tubes as well. I don't run tubless on my commuter. The Clements were awesome for some of the single track off of my local greenway as well at the lower pressures.


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## Chippertheripper (Sep 10, 2014)

I should have mentioned my commute is 27miles each way. I don't really want to drop down to a proper road size tire like a 28. I wanna keep them big.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

I had let the cross bike's canti brakes wear worse than usual, so it was a real luxury today to ride in with new KoolStop pads. The big hunks of rubber on a post seem more powerful than the ones that look like V-brake replacement cartridge thingies.

Also loving the new Axiom Rainrunner fenders, details in the fendah thread.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Replaced the Ibera rack with my old Jandd Standard (I think it's a standard) and using a Seattle Sport works back for when I actually need a pannier I normally just commuter with a Chrome Chekhov.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Last weekend I removed the woodchipper and put the on one midge back on. I had ordered a pair of control tech terminators to extend the drops, and now I am riding on the drops more than half of the time. But the tops and on the hoods is very comfy, too. Somehow the woodchipper and I do not fit together I think. With the Midge, the brake levers are angled more outwards, that I can put my hands on top of them, but rather lay them on the outer side that is facing about 45°. This makes for a large flat area. I also put two small pieces of bartape under the rubber of the hoods, to make the top area a bit more flat. The Tektro RL720 levers are not flat but a bit hollow. Adjusted the stem a bit this week and I think I got it right now.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

......and another upgrade: installed new Shimano click'r pedals and the tubus spring clamp on my rear rack yesterday evening. This way I finally do not have to stuff my wet raingear back into my pannier, but simply put it under the clamp without soaking my office clothes and other stuff.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

New Bell Helmet with the back of head protection....and an integrated go pro mount

10 year old Bell Helmet finally got a crack in the foam...all in, we dont get alot of sunshine comparatively.

New Shimano shoes with extended cleat holes so you can run the cleats further back...I am at the rear most position on the old shoes...

Cleats were okay but I got another set of cleats...

The side of the old shoe blew out a few weeks ago when for some unknown reason i smacked the side of a rock and ripped the out side coating off.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Damn you Giro for fitting my foot so perfectly.
Damn you REI for having these in stock in my size.










Been drooling over these for a hot minute. They fit really well and are pretty stiff for lace up shoes. I am gonna like these.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

TenSpeed let me know how the Giro Republic's work for you after you get a chance to ride them for a while. I am considering getting them for my commuting/errands so I don't have to wear my muddy cross shoes to work. Giro makes some incredible shoes.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Kleebs said:


> TenSpeed let me know how the Giro Republic's work for you after you get a chance to ride them for a while. I am considering getting them for my commuting/errands so I don't have to wear my muddy cross shoes to work. Giro makes some incredible shoes.


On a scale of 1-10, these are definitely a 10. Very comfortable last night on their virgin ride. Cleats need to be adjusted but I have them close. Did 39 miles plus some light walking in them and for a brand new shoe, no complaints. I can only imagine how they will feel when they are officially broken in. For a lace up shoe, they are fairly stiff, which I really like on my SPD's. Clipping in is not the normal because for some reason, the distinct "click" that I always hear just isn't there. Kind of have to do it by feel which is alright. Initially I was drawn in by the look of them, and received several compliments on them last night on our social group ride. I don't necessarily want to always look like a cyclist, so I have some stuff that is still cycling specific but has an urban look to it as well. These shoes fit the bill in that aspect. Then I ride them, and they are comfortable and fit really well. That is well worth their price tag for me.


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## wagonguy1989 (Jun 19, 2015)

just added a set of WTB ergon handle grips... so far about 20 miles on them and loving it... still getting used to it though, been riding regular grips FOREVER...

https://www.blueskycycling.com/product3399_40_-WTB-Comfort-Zone-Clamp-On-Grips.htm

ive noticed its a lil easier to climb with these? maybe because it has a "pad" to lean on instead of just bar... and i was able to lean my elbows on them comfortably down a hill too.... weird


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## z1r (Apr 17, 2014)

Not so much what I did but what I'm gonna do: 

My Commuter is a Jeff Lyon custom I had built in 1997. Last year I finally had to replace the wheels and went with Shimano 105 hubs laced to Mavic Open Pro's. Around that time I found a set of Drop bars I wanted to install. I tried but the curve was too tight to fit in my Quill Stem. That began the quest to fit the bars. I searched for a 1" Quill Stem with two piece clamp and never found one the the proper rise/reach. Shortly thereafter I came across a new 1" threadless Tange Infinity cantilever fork. Well, I've put 3500 miles on the bike since this time last year and have worn the smallest cog on my 7 speed cassette, as well as my middle chainring, and I needed a new bottom bracket. So, I ordered up a bunch of replacement parts. 

I'd been toying with the idea of a new crankset but ultimately decided to Keep the Ritchey Logic cranks, drop the small chainring and go with a 34/48 ring combo instead of the 24/36/48 rings it currently has. Basically turning it into a Compact drive. The wheels I have are ten speed so I ordered up an 11/36 XT cassette and a pair of Dura Ace Bar end shifters. My 9 speed XT rear Derailleur will stay. I was toying with the idea of converting to a 1x10 but since I also ride gravel & roads I decided to go with a 2x10. My lowest gear won't be quite as low as my current low, but then again, it's too low now.

I plan to revamp the drivetrain and replace the threaded fork with the threadless, replace the OLD cantilevers with Mini V's, and replace the brake levers with something that feels more like the 105 or Sram brifters on my newer bikes.

Funny thing is, I installed those Bars on my SSCX, so now I need new set for my commuter/gravel grinder/ single track bike.

Parts should be in next week so I'll detail the refurb then.

Any recommendations on bars?


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Traded the fat bike today. I just didn't ride it enough to keep it and he was looking for a fat bike for some winter riding. Made a sweet deal with a buddy of mine and it went down today. I now have a Specialized Carve SL 29er single speed with hydraulic disc brakes. Going to get some studded tires for the winter and hope for the best. Pics to come!


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Removed the springclamp on my tubus logo, clamping force was not strong enough to hold a folded rainjacket. Replaced it with the Tubus Bungees, they do the job well.
Also put on a new rotor on the front with new pads.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Put gears back on bike #3.



__
https://flic.kr/p/y1ACSf

My bikes have been ss/fixed all summer, and my legs are staging a revolt - no more spinning. My fixie's still good, and my 29er is geared ok, but this was my 120rpm=20mph bike, and my legs just weren't having it.

This bike was lots of fun last winter as an ss, so the gears might come off again in a couple of months when bare pavement is a rarity.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

Finally got a new rear wheel for my commuter that I have been neglecting all spring/summer. Time to finish my conversion to drop bar/1x10. Hopefully I'll get it done before the fall weather gets too wet, because its my only bike with full fenders.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

At lot changed:

1. Swapped frame to Surly Ogre Med black
2. Removed fat front wheel, replaced with Flow w/ Big Apple
3. Rear wheel has Nuvinci N360
4. Installed Planet Bike KOKO
5. Installed Planet Bike Cascadia 29er fenders
6. Installed 20t ACS Crossfire (front/rear wheel are 135mm spaced)

Lastly I keep coming back to my trekking bars, I so do not like the look of them but they are just too comfortable. I tried my Mary's, Carbon Big Sweeps and EA30 riser and I keep going back to Trekking bars. This winter it will be a flat bar since I have pogies to use.

Oh and I snagged a used set of Marathon Winter 29x2.0 for this coming season.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ sounds like a whole new bike.

So I didn't do all of this today, but over that last few weeks:


built a new wheelset - mostly just for something to do. The old one was a hand-me-down of a hand-me-down which was pretty narrow, and never really played nice with the bigapples. New set isn't anything fancy, but I figured I should get 26er stuff while I still could and went with the widest rimbrake rims (26mm internal) I could find.
an actual 26.4mm seatpost, to replace the 26.6mm someone had wedged in at the co-op. The new one has a 2-bolt adjustment which is so much better than the ancient style.
midge bar...to woodchipper bar...back to midge...and back to woodchipper. Pretty happy with the current setup, although I'm sure I'll get bored again. Just wish each bar/tape/lever switch didn't take 2 hours.

/url]


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## SlipSpace (Feb 3, 2014)

Swapped the pannier rack from my old MTB commuter to the new SS Roadie so I can..well..fit my panniers. Far nicer than having the back pack on. Also swapped lights onto it to.


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## cassa89 (Jun 30, 2014)

New tire day!


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ those look so sweet. I'm totally tempted to get them as the eventual replacement for my bigapples.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Newf, that bike is so cool. If you got the white FF's, it would be out of hand.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I'm worried that they'd get unevenly dirty, and it would bug me. I think a skinwall/whitewall would make me less crazy, but I don't think anyone makes them (except for junky cruiser tires)

In other news: back to the midge bar again. I have a serious commitment problem.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Put new nipples on the rear wheel. I had always used Sapim nipples prior to this one, and apparently, paid for it. It's been creaking for months. Anywho, replaced the DTs with Sapims.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

My commuter is a Dahon folder. I'm a Clyde and I've pretty much hammered the stock wheels. The front hub is a total piece of trash. This weekend, I'll be building up proper wheels for it. 
Phil Wood front hub, Bike Hub Store rear hub, Sapim spokes and Velocity Cliffhanger rims. 
I can't wait to try it with these parts.

Update... Three days on the new wheels now. All I can say is WHY didn't I do this sooner? Bike is faster, rolls better, goes exactly where I point it like RIGHT NOW. 
Sounds cool as Hell when I coast too. 
At first, I was freakin' out at what that Phil Wood hub cost but after riding the bike and seeing such a vast improvement, it was money well spent.


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## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

Glued on a new front tire.
Joy.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

Replaced the rear pivot suspension bearings one was siezed and squeaking like mad...

Finally got a seized suspension bolt out....broke the minimum size easy out but got it with the next size up and boiling water..

Bike is back to 100%


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

*In the Spirit*

A mod that might get in the way of mods and maintenance:









A picture that crossed my desk and made me thirsty.


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## KentheKona (Jul 6, 2013)

I've been grounded for a bit with bike troubles. biggest one was a destroyed back wheel. Finally bought a new one and need to recable my derailleur and redo my brakes and I'll be back on the road. The bike is starting to show some wear from all the miles.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Cleaned two of them. Did a barswap on #3 - but I don't think my inbred is going to work as the wannabe cx bike I was thinking of turning it into.


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## Ericmopar (Aug 23, 2003)

I put on two Continental Touring Plus tires in the 700X40 size. 
I couldn't believe it, they actually withstood two Goat Head punctures. 

Other than that, they are typical Continental. They won't sit quite right on the rim hooks and the little reflective sidewalls that originally got some compliments from the neighbors, are already pealing off.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I've also been pretty disappointed with reflective sidewalls (although it's schwalbe for me). When they're not actually pealing off, they're just porous enough to really cling to dirt.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

@ericmopar & newfangled:

I always use soap to get those Conti's on the rim correctly. First put some soap (directly from the bottle, no water!) on the rim, put on tube and tyre and inflate slightly. Then check if the tyre is sitting correctly. If not, bend the tyre with your hands sideways. Usually, the bead ist too deep somewhere. Especially with new tyres it is important to have them set up correctly, since the tyres will set themselves and after a while, it is hard to correct it. I sometimes had a real "dent" in my tyre, that I could feel every turn of the wheel. Sometimes it also helps to inflate really hard to press the bead on the rim - if you have the guts to do so....

Concerning reflecting side walls: Back then, everything was better. I now use spoke 80mm long spoke reflectors. Cost little, much better visible, can be seen from almost any angle and I haven't lost a single one over 4000m.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Put the original variable angle stem back on the road bike. Flipped it so it has a -16° angle on it, and am hoping that this will make the bike feel faster than it is. Right now, it feels like a touring or comfort bike. Saddle to bar drop is almost non existent before I did this swap. I tried it with a -8° and it felt alright. Put the stock Prologo Kappa 2 saddle back on. The saddle itself is decent, but it is white. Already dirty, and I cannot stand white saddles. May try to locate this exact saddle in all black if possible.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

^ Kind of a ghetto mod, but if your shorts/pants are dark to hide any transfer, I wonder how permanent black marker would do as a color change? Kiwi makes a black stain for leather, but not sure that would penetrate. Maybe an LBS has a used bike with a black one to swap for little dough? Personal aesthetics seem trivial to others, but really do get under one's skin. Just the way some of us are. It might even be worth taking it out of the beer money.


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## Ericmopar (Aug 23, 2003)

cyclingdutchman said:


> @ericmopar & newfangled:
> 
> I always use soap to get those Conti's on the rim correctly. First put some soap (directly from the bottle, no water!) on the rim, put on tube and tyre and inflate slightly. Then check if the tyre is sitting correctly. If not, bend the tyre with your hands sideways. Usually, the bead ist too deep somewhere. Especially with new tyres it is important to have them set up correctly, since the tyres will set themselves and after a while, it is hard to correct it. I sometimes had a real "dent" in my tyre, that I could feel every turn of the wheel. Sometimes it also helps to inflate really hard to press the bead on the rim - if you have the guts to do so....
> 
> Concerning reflecting side walls: Back then, everything was better. I now use spoke 80mm long spoke reflectors. Cost little, much better visible, can be seen from almost any angle and I haven't lost a single one over 4000m.


I've used soap for years, and even talcum powder, but I've never had the problems I always have with Contis. These are the last straw for me. After this no more Contis. 
I've used other similar tires with much less hassle. 
My only sorrow about this, is these are the first tires I've ever used that can actually stop a Goat Head puncture.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

You have to take some extra time to put new conti's on the bike. Never try to do it quickly before a ride.And the schwalbe marathon plus should have the same impact resistance as the conti plus. After all, schealbe invented the whole plus thing. Maybe try them next time?


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

BrianMc said:


> ^ Kind of a ghetto mod, but if your shorts/pants are dark to hide any transfer, I wonder how permanent black marker would do as a color change? Kiwi makes a black stain for leather, but not sure that would penetrate. Maybe an LBS has a used bike with a black one to swap for little dough? Personal aesthetics seem trivial to others, but really do get under one's skin. Just the way some of us are. It might even be worth taking it out of the beer money.


I don't drink, so I have plenty in the beer money fund. 

I am not totally attached to the saddle honestly. I have other saddles to put on the bike, just thought I would give this one a go. 22 mile test ride today. I need a 90mm 17°+/- stem though. 110mm puts me too far out on the bars and my wrists and hands felt it. Aside from that, it is about perfect now. Off to the web to find a stem I guess.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Why do geometry numbers lie to me?

A road or cx bike in my size would have an effective toptube of ~570mm, and a stem in the 90~100mm range.

My inbred has an ETT of 602mm, so with a 30~60mm stem I _should_ be able to use dropbars, shouldn't I? But no. Spent some time on the weekend goofing around, and totally failing to come up with a setup that was even remotely comfortable. And I've done this sort of thing before, but this was no-go.

I'll have to play around with it again once I've switched back to ss for the winter, so that I'm not also trying to figure out a solution to non-sti shifting.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

Ericmopar said:


> I've used soap for years, and even talcum powder, but I've never had the problems I always have with Contis. These are the last straw for me. After this no more Contis.
> I've used other similar tires with much less hassle.
> My only sorrow about this, is these are the first tires I've ever used that can actually stop a Goat Head puncture.


I've got 2 pair of Conti Gatorskins and have mounted them on 4 different sets of rims. It's always s struggle. I've probably mounted nearly 1000 tires between flats, winter changeover & just worn out but these tires on any rims are the hardest.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Oh totally forgot, concerning the tyres: Folding tyres should be easier to install, since they have no wire in the bead.

I installed a pair of "semi"-hydraulic TRP Hy/RD calipers on my bike last weekend. Simply swapped them with my BB7 calipers, everything else like levers, cables etc remained on the bike. Every once and a while I will update my experience with them in Forster's Hy/RD thread in the braketime forum:
http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/trp-cable-hydraulic-961441.html

First impression: Just as good as my BB7 - should get better after breaking in, some adjustments and just getting used to them.


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## cassa89 (Jun 30, 2014)

The jones bars I had on before weren't as comfortable as I'd like on longer (15+ mile) rides - I started to get really sore wrists at about mile 10 - so I'm trying a RaceFace flat bar now. So far, so good. Went out for ~30 miles the past couple of days, and really like the posture and the ESI chunky grips.

After about 60-70 miles on the Fat Franks, I can confirm they're amazing - both on paved roads and gravel/fire roads.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

And those fat franks still look pretty clean. I think those are going to be on my shopping list for next spring.

Good luck with the flat bar.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

New bar tape came in, picked that up at the shop. Just waiting for the stem from Felt which should be here Tuesday. I am off on Wednesday so I will be going down to the shop and pretty much redoing the cockpit on the geared carbon bike. Looking forward to getting it finally dialed in. Did a saddle swap on Friday from the stock Prologo Kappa 2 (white) to a black Specialized Avatar with a white underbody. Matches the bike perfectly, and that white saddle looked grimy after only a few rides and I normally just wear black shorts.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

I put on the conti wintercontact today. And while I had the wheels out anyway, I cleaned a bit everywhere, adjusted the chain tension and realigned the calipers.

As usual the conti's were very reluctant to set properly on the rim. With some soap, wringing around and then pumped up to max. pressure of 6 bar, I think I got it right. We will see tomorrowmorning on the next commute. Have the minipump with me anyway so I can adjust the pressure if I have to.

Later I will need to put new bartape on and probably put new housing between the brake levers and my froglegs.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Cassa89: what is so good about the fat franks? On the schealbe site they do not show any remarkable points. So what is it? Fast, comfortable, puncture resistant, grippy, long lasting, or everything together?


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## cassa89 (Jun 30, 2014)

cyclingdutchman said:


> Cassa89: what is so good about the fat franks? On the schealbe site they do not show any remarkable points. So what is it? Fast, comfortable, puncture resistant, grippy, long lasting, or everything together?


My commute is mainly pavement and gravel, and they're easily the most comfortable tires I've ever had. The just absorb everything and roll so nice. I wouldn't say they're fast, but I don't find them slow either. They're not the lightest, but neither is my bike itself. Grip on wet pavement hasn't been an issue. I cant comment on longevity or puncture resistance, although I've not had a flat yet. In all, they may not do one thing super, but they've been the complete package for me thus far.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Thanks! Will consider those for next summer.

Please keep us informed about puncture resistance and longevity.

Thanks again.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

I cleaned about 1lb of gunk out of the drivetrain, the equivalent of $1000 in carbon components.


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## z1r (Apr 17, 2014)

bedwards1000 said:


> I cleaned about 1lb of gunk out of the drivetrain, the equivalent of $1000 in carbon components.


You can buy a new bike with those savings! Maybe a nice single speed?


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

Um, that was my new bike. Actually about a 1 month old bike with 1 month and 600 miles of gunk on it. No single speed for me. I love all my gears. I don't even like this trend of ditching the front derailleur.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Relaced a front wheel.

Something like 4 years ago I got sent two warranty replacement rims, but at the time I only needed one of them, so the spare one has been hanging around just-in-case. 

But now the paint of the other wheel was looking pretty rough, with some flaking an bubbling going on. So I figured it was about time to put the spare to good use and just moved the hub and spokes over.

I've gotta say that white is not a good choice for an accessory color - paint just isn't as durable as annodizing for stuff like rims/pedals/seatclamps.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

New shoes, gonna start commuting again after 1 month off with an injured ankle.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Redid the cables, housings and pads for my main winter bike as a bit of pre-winter prep. And with that I've used up all my spare bb7 pads. Ànd I think that's all the excuse I need to try trp spykes for next spring. (it really is just an excuse, since the bb7s will get demoted to #3 bike and I'll need new pads for that anyway)


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Installed a new stem on the geared road bike. Never in my life did I ever think that I would run a stem at -16° but I can cross that off of my bucket list. Felt, like Specialized, offers their stem with an adjustable insert/shim that allows you to change the angle of the stem without replacing the stem. Their 58cm bikes come with a 110mm long stem which is far too long for me, but I had adjusted it to the -16 already and found it to be extremely comfortable and yet racy at the same time. Ordered a 90mm and it came in the mail so it is now on the bike. New Lizard Skin bar tape is ready to go on, just need to get down to the shop to wrap it. I can do it here, but I like to hang out down there with my buddies and shoot the bs while I wrap. Todays commute will be the test run to see how the stem truly fits.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

I gave him a new pair of shoes! Five Ten Aescents! They stick to the plastic cover under my office chair when I left my foot up haha.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Every fall I get bored, and when I'm bored I change things.

So, dropbar mountainbike #3


__
https://flic.kr/p/yY8D9N

I think the woodchipper has problems as a dropbar, but it's pretty comfy on the hoods. So this setup is meant for hoods most the time, but drops when things get extra hairy. Singletrack on the hoods is nicely terrifying, so this should be fun. After one very successful ride I think I'll go ahead with my plan to make this into a 700c fake-cx bike for next year.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

That bike looks super fun newfangled


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ and now I've got 700c wheels on the way, so I might even be able to do a quick conversion before the snow falls.

I was pretty sure that I'd have to build a set. I want something that will also work with my old bridgestone, so I need 700c rim+disc, but that seemed unlikely. But then I found a set for $100, and it's pretty bombproof (deore + ryhnolites), and is way cheaper than I ever could have built it for.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

New bar tape time. Picked this up at the shop what seems like years ago, but was really only a couple of weeks ago. Lizard Skins black camo, which really is not camo, but more of a lizard skin design with black, white and grey. Got schooled on how to properly wrap drops, as that is not something I have done. Really liking how it turned out. Also pictured is new 90mm Felt variable angle stem with insert currently set to -16° rise.









Next up is possibly dropping the BarFly mount for the Garmin and going with the original stem mount. Might give that a try tonight.


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## z1r (Apr 17, 2014)

Hugged my commuter just minutes ago. It propelled me through the 3K mark so far this year and 2K last year. Not bad for a bike built in 1997!


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## indigo_falconm40 (Jan 18, 2012)

I havent commuted on my mtb in awhile but with new job I plan on it next spring. I have about 12 mile commute with 10 miles on local rail trail with crushed limestone. I bought set of maxxis tread lite 26x2.1 along with new tubes.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Dropped the BarFly mount and am using the Garmin mount for the stem included with my 810. Why didn't I do this earlier? Much better setup because it keeps the computer out of the cables. The dang thing came with two of these mounts and two sets of bands to strap it on. Really nice stuff from Garmin, pretty impressed.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

^^ I had 4 bikes I wanted to put Garmin mounts on... it came with two of the ones you describe, and I bought the same one for bike #3 off of Amazon... turns out that two replacement ones come in the box. woohoo. Some extra rubber band/o-rings too. They work super good, hard to improve on that design. The ones that stick up front seem pretty vulnerable... 

I also have a friend who has a stem-cap garmin mount... not sure makes it, but that looks like a good situation. 

ProTip: My trailbike stem was a bit too short for the Garmin to rotate into place... it would hit the front of the stem and the stem cap as you tried to twist it into place... I wound up putting some road bike bar tape under the garmin mount to stand it up just a tiny bit higher, and it worked perfect.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^Just yesterday I tired of N+1 mounts and not accounting for all my mileage (e.g., no mount on the BMX, and only the dog tracker mount on the MTB), so I ordered a multisport GPS watch from TOMTOM ($149). We'll see how it works. It seems handier (ha!) than using a phone (and Strava always "stops working" on mine), and I don't need to look at it all the time, but I realized today I am not sure how the history works on it. Hoping I can reset it for the calendar year. Downside seems to be shorter GPS battery time, since it is slim on your wrist, so more frequent charging than bike GPS'. Also hope to be able to track my dog walking, snowshoeing, and skijoring miles more conveniently.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

mtbxplorer said:


> ^^Just yesterday I tired of N+1 mounts and not accounting for all my mileage (e.g., no mount on the BMX, and only the dog tracker mount on the MTB), so I ordered a multisport GPS watch from TOMTOM ($149). We'll see how it works. It seems handier (ha!) than using a phone (and Strava always "stops working" on mine), and I don't need to look at it all the time, but I realized today I am not sure how the history works on it. Hoping I can reset it for the calendar year. Downside seems to be shorter GPS battery time, since it is slim on your wrist, so more frequent charging than bike GPS'. Also hope to be able to track my dog walking, snowshoeing, and skijoring miles more conveniently.


I hope it all works out for you...

I gave up on activity recording devices....I got tired of dead phones or dead GPS's or dead whatevers...

I just grab google earth after the trip and pick off the mileage and elevation....

I have a topo map program that provides both and time estimates based on achievable vertical feet per hour and average flat speed....damn accurate...

But most the time I just pick off google earth.....and note other possible routes such as short bushwacks to peaks etc.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

CommuterBoy said:


> ^^ I had 4 bikes I wanted to put Garmin mounts on... it came with two of the ones you describe, and I bought the same one for bike #3 off of Amazon... turns out that two replacement ones come in the box. woohoo. Some extra rubber band/o-rings too. They work super good, hard to improve on that design. The ones that stick up front seem pretty vulnerable...


They're so cheap I just keep them in stock. My wife just added a +1 (Tri-Bike) so I went to the Garmin mount drawer and grabbed one.

They also make a wrist strap with a 1/4 turn that she uses for running.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

jeffscott said:


> I gave up on activity recording devices....I got tired of dead phones or dead GPS's or dead whatevers....


If I ever outlast my Garmin battery I'll be pretty proud of myself. I have the base level Edge 200... I've used it on a couple rides of right around 10 hours. One time I got the battery down to around 65% :lol:


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

I bought a helmet in the fall with better rear protection and a go pro mount...

Finally got the go pro mount glued to the back of my head light.

first ride this morning....forgot it was up there.


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## TroN-0074 (Sep 15, 2011)

I just replaced handlebar on my winter beater bike. I like them so far.


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## bikeCOLORADO (Sep 4, 2003)

New shoes. Hoping for no more heat packs and having to wrestle with neoprene booties any more.









Northwave Celsius Arctic 2 gtx


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

bikeCOLORADO said:


> New shoes. Hoping for no more heat packs and having to *wrestle *with neoprene *booties *any more.
> Northwave Celsius Arctic 2 gtx


They do look like something a professional wrestler would wear. Maybe not Nacho Libre but more like the hulk. They do, however, match my new bike pretty well.

Buying winter shoes was one of the best things I have done for winter riding. I hate the booty/toe cover thing. They get torn to shreds in about 20 steps.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

jeffscott said:


> I Finally got the go pro mount glued to the back of my head light.


Pictures? Please?


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

BrianMc said:


> Pictures? Please?


 I can get the picture on my I phone but then I don't know how to get it on the site anymore......

I just carved a piece of cedar...to fit the slots and the back of the Petzal....I also used picture wire and epoxy to hold them together....sanded the plastic and put to holes in it so the glue could get a good grab....


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Busy year for my old Inbred 26er.

For a long time it was my basic 26" geared hardtail:


__
https://flic.kr/p/p4HFQd

But last fall I switched it over to ss to mix things up:


__
https://flic.kr/p/phBPXb

Last winter it inherited a rigid fork, and with a Dirt Wizard up front it became a bit of a baby fatbike:


__
https://flic.kr/p/rY7XL2

After a summer of that I realized I really didn't need two ss and a fixie, so it got gears back:


__
https://flic.kr/p/y1ACSf

Last couple of weeks I've been trying out my old woodchipper for fit:


__
https://flic.kr/p/yY8D9N

And finally today it's a fake-cx:


__
https://flic.kr/p/AqVM2h

That'll last for a couple of weeks until the snow falls, and then it will go back to baby-fat mode.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^Nice transformations!


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

So after that photo, I swapped the 38t chainring to a 42t that I had lying around. The 38 worked in the middle position on the crank, but the 42 has to go on the outside, which means crosschaining is terrible for the low gears. 

Out on some frosty, slimy, leafy singletrack this morning I didn't feel confident really pushing things in the low gears - lots of ugly noises, and backpedaling throws the chain out of whack. So between gaining a few teeth upfront, and losing a few gears in the back I'm now geared way too high for offroad.

The 38 isn't actually bad, I just always worry about cassette wear from spending too much time in the highest few gears. But with the 42 I'm still spending most of my time up there, and the low gears are terrible, so I'll probably swap back. 38 to 42 is a 10% gain, which doesn't even work out to one whole gear.


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## danec99 (Jul 22, 2010)

I built my Karate Monkey up with an XTR M960 groupset I acquired in pieces. I was "assuming" a mountain crank would probably be more used on the inner rings, wrong. The big ring was worn. However I did manage to get close to 3000 miles on it, so I cannot complain. Lately the chain has been coming off the ring when I stood for fast starts, so I just installed a "newer" ring - much better. Now to find out what that annoying chirp is from the back.


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## Big Fil (Nov 5, 2014)

Just put on my new Nitefighter BT40s on my commuter. Overkill for a commute light but sometimes overkill is fun. Low mode is more than enough and the runtimes good. Now I just need to get some good fenders.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

I put my Marathon Winters on, its really nice here but I just put them on in the beginning of Nov regardless.


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

danec99 said:


> Now to find out what that annoying chirp is from the back.


Check the jockey wheels in the derailleur. Pull them out, clean, and apply a few drops of light weight grease (hub oil works well). Reassemble and remember the jockey wheels are not interchangeable.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Took some time off to drop it off at the bike shop for a pre-winter overhaul and some new brakes and stuff. Doh, November hours on door, closed today . Since I hate to drive and also to take time off to drive, and I happened to have a heftier cable lock in the car, so I locked it and hoped for the best overnight. It is over 15 years old, so I hope that helps. Assuming it is still there in the morning, I plan to ask about replacing with same BB7s or those Spykes, what would you pick?


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I'm planning to replace my bb7s with spykes, so that's my answer.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

When I picked this bike up originally, I knew that plans would eventually get in motion, and that finally happened.

My 2014 Specialized Crave SL 29er when I got it:










My 2014 Specialized Crave SL Monster Hybrid now:



















Major changes include:

Avid BB7 disc mechanical road brakes
Cane Creek 200TT bar end levers
Chris King hubs laced to debadged Stan's Arch EX wheels
Continental CityRide tires with reflective side wall 700x42
Bontrager Aero bullhorn bars
Lizard Skin black and red tape
Surly 15t rear cog - soon to be changed to a 13t (on order at the shop) now 34:15 will be 34:13
Specialized Phenom 143 saddle with red underbody

Built this up on Friday down at the shop. I love having a shop where I can go to do work myself, and use tools that I simply don't have. The customer work stand in this shop gets heavy usage and they love it. Ordered everything through the shop and for the most part, the install was all me. I had a little help with the brakes but the rest I did on my own. I asked questions, and they gave me advice. My buddy showed me how an eccentric bottom bracket works and how to adjust the chain tension.

The bike rides like a dream. It feels so wrong, but yet so right at the same time. It does have a carbon fork and the combination of that, the aluminum frame, and those 42's gives it a really smooth ride. It isn't the fastest bike yet but for what it is, the smiles per mile really make up for it. Test rode it to work and there were no issues, especially with the bottom bracket. Buddy said it might creak a bit since we were in there messing with it but it was silent. Small cabling issue where the brake cable is either hitting the stem bolt or the mount for my front light. Will have to address when I get a chance. I can definitely see why so many people recommend the biggest tire possible on a commuter. The ride quality really is affected. Bike will be used as a commuter and Jimmy John's delivery bike for all weather. Stock wheels will be set up with mtb tires and more than likely a studded front tire, possibly rear as well for the winter.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

newfangled said:


> ^ I'm planning to replace my bb7s with spykes, so that's my answer.


Although I am quite happy with my hy/rd s from trp, I would really like to know how the spykes work. So please share your experiences. Thx!


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ they're in the mail. I still have to decide if I want to subject them to winter, or let the bb7s get beaten up one more time and put the spykes on in spring.

(although who am I kidding - no way will I be able to sit on them for 5 months. I also want to move the bb7s to my fake cx bike to get a bit more power with the drop levers)


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

TenSpeed said:


> Surly 15t rear cog - soon to be changed to a 13t (on order at the shop) now 34:15 will be 34:13


Is a 34 ring the biggest that will fit?


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

newfangled said:


> Is a 34 ring the biggest that will fit?


Having some problems locating something that is bigger. 104BCD 4 bolt. Suggestions?


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

newfangled said:


> ^ I'm planning to replace my bb7s with spykes, so that's my answer.


Thanks. I decided to stick with BB7s, they have been good to me and the LBS didn't have any track record on the Spykes.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

TenSpeed said:


> Having some problems locating something that is bigger. 104BCD 4 bolt. Suggestions?


I've got a couple of the FSA ss rings from jenson and a couple raceface narrow/wides (although those are trickier for ss, because you can't use half-links). And I've enjoyed my oval ring for ss too.

But you'd definitely want to try to testfit the chainstay clearance if you can (or I guess see if someone on the forum can tell you).


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Broke my Minoura headset spacer mount.








So I replaced it with this.








I also moved my Crane brass bell from my handlebars to my stem, much cleaner looking. Will post a pic later.









EDIT 11/10:








I removed ALL Surly logos from my Ogre, it is now just a plain black frame with nothing saying it is a Surly. I can only hope this prevents theft, however I do have a Revelate Surly framebag


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

I've got today off, and it was supposed to be my big winterization day (also had last friday off, and it was also supposed to be my big winterization day). But it's currently raining, and the longterm forecast doesn't show much chance for show.

But it's going to happen eventually I guess, so I gave in and swapped the summer ss drivetrain over to winter gears. Studs will wait though.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Flipped the stem on the Frankendinglespeed whatever the heck I call it. Bike is a bit more stretched out than the fixed gear track bike, but the cockpit is almost identical as far as saddle to bar height. A few more final tweaks and it should be good to go. 13t cog came in at the shop so that will go on possibly tomorrow.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

fitted the pompino with a niner flat bar i had laying around so that i could use more of the surface of my origin 8 porteur rack.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Installed Surly 13t cog. The EBB is a love/hate thing for me. I love how it works, but I also hate how it works. Didn't need to remove any links in the chain so that is good. Still looking to maybe jump the front ring up to a 36 or 38 if possible. Gearing as is allowed me to hit 24.2 mph on a flat smooth street for a second or two.

Still contemplating doing drops instead of the bullhorns. The reach to the bar end brake levers is a bit much. Gonna play around with the saddle distance to the stem before I make a final decision.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ just on the subject of EBBs, the most annoying thing is that they're really better suited to the era of cup&cone bottom brackets. 

The reason being: if your EBB starts creaking you need to pull it out and clean it up. With a cup&cone or cartridge bb, you pull off one crank arm and the EBB easily slides out. But with external bbs, the cups get in the way, so you have to pull the cranks, and remove one of the bb cups, and then you can slide it out. It's not a whole lot more work, but it's annoying enough that I do everything I can to avoid it.

Anyway, got my TRP Spykes and installed them last night. It seems cruel to dump new brakes right into winter, but I want to swap the old bb7s over to my inbred to replace its junky brakes.

The Spykes are easy to set up - it's so nice to have pads that actually sit straight, unlike stupid bb7s. The canted bb7 pads are why I wanted to try something else, because ever since I've been using long-pull drop levers it's been impossible to get clearances that I was happy with. And I don't know why it's so hard for rotors to be true out of the box, but these new ones needed some major tweaking.


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## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

In the process of rebuilding the rear hub for my 'winter' wheel.

This is always less fun than it should be. Getting the pawls back in the freehub is an exercise in patience if you have less than four hands.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

For my commuter shoes (Five Ten Aescents) I got some reflective laces. They look grey which match the shoes when not exposed to light.


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## DavidM310 (Nov 11, 2015)

Installed Schwalbe Big Apple 29x2.35 and let the chain soak in a bucket of degreaser.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

After a year and a half, I think I have to accept that the woodchipper is just not for me. Tried it in a million different combinations, and it's always _almost_ right, but never quite gets there. (particularly compared to my two other dirtdrops, which both fit like a glove)

So I found a cheapish and boring Giant dropbar, and a couple of days ago I put it on my fake-cx bike:


__
https://flic.kr/p/BKFVGe

And today I swapped it from 700c back to 26:


__
https://flic.kr/p/BMibA6

Still need to play around with it, but I think this'll work.

But I think I also have to accept that with my bulky winter gloves, 1-finger braking from the hoods is just not workable on singletrack. Part of the point of this exercise is to make bike #3 a little more interesting, but 1-finger braking is a little too close to terrifying.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

^^ do you have the cowchipper? Thinking about that for the Ogre.


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## reod12x2 (Nov 6, 2015)

dropped my bike off at the lbs for a yearly tune up.... off the hop it needs a new chain, probable cables and maybe brake pads too


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

CommuterBoy said:


> ^^ do you have the cowchipper? Thinking about that for the Ogre.


I went into the one local surly/salsa shop and asked if they ever stocked it, and they didn't. (well, actually they said they had one out on the floor, but after some clarification it turned out they actually meant their fargo and its woodchipper) And for $100CAD, I'm not going to buy one sight-unseen.

They did have a couple of bikes setup with cowbells, and all I can say is that it sure looks like a dropbar. Guitar Ted's review of the cowchipper was really positive, but he also said that lined up next to a cowbell it's tough to tell the difference.










So anyway, for $30CAD I got the Giant Connect XR which has a bit of flare to it - obviously not as much as a cowchipper, but maybe as much as the cowbell? But the goal with this was to get something a little more normal and less freakish.

(it's weird, because I can already feel my Woodchipper stockholm syndrome calling me back. "Give me one more chance, man. What about running me at 36deg, with the levers angled out halfway at the 2nd mounting line? Or 38deg with the levers midway between 2 and 3, lined up to match the flare of the ramps but not the slightly different flare of the extensions? You've never tried that before...")


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## VegasSingleSpeed (May 5, 2005)

Modified my 26" Redline Monocog for disk brakes (not today  )
Fabricated a disc mount:







Mock up:







TIG'd:







Fin:







29" wheels and 32c tires and fenders fit (tight):


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ that's pretty great. What gearing are you running with the skinnies?

With 35s on my 26" inbred, I'd have to really work to try to fit fenders in there.


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## VegasSingleSpeed (May 5, 2005)

42x14 (DX cassette body threaded into an XT hub)


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Super cool! 

And thanks Newf, that helps...


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ and sigh, but I think I'm switching back to to the woodchipper (and this is why I don't tape things up).

After 5 days of singletrack on the new bar, the web of my palms is _dying._ The reach to the lever is a tiny bit better than the woodchipper, but my grip isn't as stable, so all of the braking force is going into one tiny little section of my hand.

And I think that's because I'm trying to run them roadie-style, with flat tops and the levers mostly level. And I was trying to do that with the woodchipper too. Today I rotated the new bars down and the levers up, to give me a bit of a notch to rest my hand in and spread the pressure around. And that was better, but now it's making me think "Did I try that with the woodchipper? I don't think I really did." So the cycle continues.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

replaced the nad crusher saddle.......aaaaahhhhhhhh


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Replacing my Nuvinci shifter with a Rohloff shifter, will be a much cleaner look and I think more durable.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

@VegasSingleSpeed: Nice work!!


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

First phase on a new porteur rack:









Working on a removable top rail and front light mount.


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## VegasSingleSpeed (May 5, 2005)

cyclingdutchman said:


> @VegasSingleSpeed: Nice work!!


Thanks!



jrm said:


> replaced the nad crusher saddle.......aaaaahhhhhhhh


:thumbsup:
If anybody else is growing sore from riding the saddles of your youth, take a look at the Selle Anatomica saddles. A bit spendy, but the most comfortable saddle I've EVER ridden. About as close to pedaling on a cloud as my fat arse will ever get


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Brooks Flyer; one of the LBS is closing for good, got this for $60.









Banjo Brothers Grocery Pannier; I got two of these $5 each at their for sale area.

I also got a two brooks saddle covers for $4 each


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

In the same boat as newfangled - cannot get the bars right. Swapped out the bullhorns for a set of FSA Energy drops on the track bike. Delivery with bullhorns and carrying my bike inside buildings is a pita. The bullhorns get caught up on everything!!! Doors, door handles, door ways, me, everything that you can imagine. Will try drops again and hope for better results. Been using the bullhorns for a hot minute so the transition might be tough. To make that even worse, I ordered these: City Grounds | Cinelli Pepper Alloy Riser Handlebar to try out as well. These are fairly popular so I will see what they are all about.

Wrapped the drops in my usual black Lizard Skin DSP bar tape. Not used to wrapping drops but I think it turned out alright. It's a 5 footer for sure.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Mr Pink57 said:


> View attachment 1034800
> 
> Replacing my Nuvinci shifter with a Rohloff shifter, will be a much cleaner look and I think more durable.


I installed this last night and works great, the shifter I think is so much smoother than the Nuvinci twist shifter and far less in your face with plastic and a man riding a worm.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Trying something a little different.

Sunrace/Sturmey-Archer makes a 9 speed indexed thumbshifter for $25.

The clamp is 22.2mm for flatbars, but after a few minutes with a rattail file I'd opened it up enough to fit on dropbars:



__
https://flic.kr/p/Biq7Mk



__
https://flic.kr/p/C6eScG



__
https://flic.kr/p/CfND6V

It's pretty cool. The intent of this bike is riding on the hoods, and from there things are very easy to access. The shifter itself is super-neat, because you can rotate it around on the clamp to adjust where the cablestop comes out. So I can mount it behind the bar like in the photos, or flip the clamp so the shifter is sitting in front of the bar.

Right now I think I've got it either a little too high, or too low, but I'm not sure which. It's a bit of a hinderance when I'm in the drops, and it sortof blocks my pinky when I'm on the hoods. I'm going to have to play around with the position a bit, which will mean taping and retaping the bar a million times.

I didn't go with a barend shifter because this was cheap enough that I had to at least try it. Also I thought that I might be using the woodchipper (and I might still switch back to it), and I've bashed barplugs out of that bar a bunch of times, so a barend shifter wouldn't last a week.

Anyway, I know what I'll be monkeying with over the holidays.



__
https://flic.kr/p/BijpFd


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Finally got the "fixed" part to go on my fixed/free flip flop hub. Funky.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

FINALLY finished my commuter. When I picked it up from my local coop it was a flat bar 3x7 hybrid with a goofy mix of trigger shifter for the front and a thumbie 3 speed friction front shifter that was used to shift the rear. Surprisingly it worked but not great, especially when the salt and slush of winter started taking its toll. I bought it as a beater winter commuter and I sure did beat on it. After the winter I started the conversion on it. I did the following work to it over the last 9 months:

-Full coverage fenders
-Saddle swap
-Rear rack
-Added the 1" quill to 1-1/8" threadless adapter and added a new stem to accomodate the drop bars
-Flat bar to drop bar conversion. - Found some broken STI levers at the coop for basically free. Shifting function doesn't work but they are perfectly good brake levers
-10sp bar end shifter mated to a brand new 105 mid cage rear deraileur
-New rear wheel
-Finally broke down and mounted a double kickstand - I am usually anti-kickstand but full fenders get in the way of the old lean-the-rear-tire-against-stuff method I used before. It's very helpful when loading and unloading panniers.

And finally: A picture for your viewing pleasure. 
BEFORE:








AFTER:


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Kleebs said:


> FINALLY finished my commuter. When I picked it up from my local coop it was a flat bar 3x7 hybrid with a goofy mix of trigger shifter for the front and a thumbie 3 speed friction front shifter that was used to shift the rear. Surprisingly it worked but not great, especially when the salt and slush of winter started taking its toll. I bought it as a beater winter commuter and I sure did beat on it. After the winter I started the conversion on it. I did the following work to it over the last 9 months:
> 
> -Full coverage fenders
> -Saddle swap
> ...


BOOM. All black bike and you hit em with the orange bar tape. Hell yes!! I love it! What saddle is that in the drop version?


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## jetta_mike (Feb 26, 2007)

I repaired a flat that I got on the ride in after my shift ended, at 3 am. At least it wasn't on the road!


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

TenSpeed said:


> BOOM. All black bike and you hit em with the orange bar tape. Hell yes!! I love it! What saddle is that in the drop version?


Hell yea gotta have a pop of color. The saddle is a Fizik Arione. After many trials and many errors, that is the saddle I've found that works for me.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Finally got some cruddy pictures of my fixed gear setup.









That's my new All City track cog and chain on my dirty everything else.









Because almost everything on my bike is black I feel obligated to wear the bright orange reflective gloves resting on the bar ends there.









And have enough light. Although I really want to get a helmet mounted light.

Not the purdiest bike in the lot by a long shot but she never gives me grief.


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## p08757 (Mar 15, 2012)

Just rebuilt one of the bikes I use for commuting:

Powder-coated the frame
Cleaned all parts
New Cassette
New cables and housings all around
New chain
New bar tape

I think she looks nice!

The only thing remaining is to install the rear rack.

View attachment 1039027


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ Very snazzy. Based on the size of the downtube, I assume that's aluminum? Any issues finding a powdercoater? (I've heard it's trickier for Al because of the heat involved, but I actually have no idea)


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## p08757 (Mar 15, 2012)

newfangled said:


> ^ Very snazzy. Based on the size of the downtube, I assume that's aluminum? Any issues finding a powdercoater? (I've heard it's trickier for Al because of the heat involved, but I actually have no idea)


Yes it is aluminum. The shop I brought it to had zero issues with it. They messed up on the cro-mo fork and had to redo it. All in all it came out great IMO.

This is the second frame I've had them do.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

So I've spent the past few weeks riding snowy singletrack with skinny bars:


__
https://flic.kr/p/CkwMdp

Gotten pretty good at it, and finally figured out decent and reliable braking from the hoods.

(I was struggling with index-finger braking vs. 2-finger braking, but it turns out that the secret for me is middle-finger braking. If I get my index finger involved it shifts my whole hand forward and puts a ton of pressure on my thumb. If I just use my middle finger I can get a solid grip between it and my palm).

So that was fun, but the road bars tuck my elbows in and choke up my shoulders. They limit my range of motion a lot, and probably aren't great for the long term.

So today was back to the woodchippers again:


__
https://flic.kr/p/BHudcY

I've gone back-and-forth-and-back-and-forth with these over the last two years, but after all of the recent experimenting I was trying a new setup today, and had a pretty fantastic ride. Still awkward enough to be a challenge, but not as edge-of-control as the road bars.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

You are not alone in the bar swapping. Bullhorns and road BB7's came off the SS MTB. It was fun while it lasted but the reach to the bar end levers was just too much and caused me some neck and shoulder pain. Currently, I have a riser Specialized MTB bar back on the bike like it was before when I yanked the super wide one off. I only put the front brake on so far. Not sure if the rear will reappear or not. Shimano hydraulic MTB brakes work really well. So well that I may have too much stopping power up front. The bike is not going to see any off road duty until summer at best.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ it's tough - I've got my other two bikes set up pretty much perfectly, which leaves only this one to play around with. I kindof don't want to get this one figured out, because then I'll be bored.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

26" to 700c conversion:



__
https://flic.kr/p/wmVVfz



__
https://flic.kr/p/BPb4WZ

It's really only intended to be a temporary or occasional thing, but today sure was a comfy and zippy ride.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

Got my first set of studs for Christmas from my wife's 95 year old grandma who is scared to death that I will get myself killed by riding in the winter. I sure do appreciate her concern and her approach of "at least use the best technology you can get". Swapped them on this weekend. They will have to be my sole winter tires for now due to a recent mishap with the fat bike (see the how was your commute thread). 

As I was completing the winterization of my commuter I ran into a dilemma. Last year, before I installed the bar end shifter, I used a set of drop bar bar mitts and they were a key piece of gear for keeping my hands warm last winter. I went to install them again this year, but the shifter cable from the bar end sticks straight off the bar such that I can't use the mitts. Anyone run into this problem before with bar mitts and bar cons? I think I will try to recruit a seamstress friend to help me with some chopping and zipper installing.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Got a rear rack put on each of my bikes (thanks for the Planetbike link Newfangled!) and a new-used set of tires on the mountain bike. My buddy sold his 29er a couple years ago when he stopped racing and kept his 2.3 and 2.1 inch Specialized ground control tires. I don't really have any interest in owning anything from Specialized, but he did sell me the pair for $20 and they are almost brand new.

This rack I really like, but it doesn't fit on the other bike since I put bb7's on it. It's a Blackburn TRX-1 or something. Nothing too fancy, but pretty sturdy, and maintains with more weight than they say it ought to.









This is a rack I've had for a long time, but haven't used for a while because I was missing one piece of the left stay. Some kind of Bontrager rack I got as a gift a few years ago. The good news is that after adjusting the height and reach of the stays, I have a lot more clearance between the tires and rack using this one instead of the other one I usually prefer.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

I installed a comically large front basket....


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## native29er (Oct 23, 2014)

Fancy Salsa skewers too dope for a commuter? I dig it. Keep your hands off my $#%@!


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Picked this up while I was out of town visiting some shops today with a buddy.










Lezyne Strip Drive Pro in black. Super impressed with the light, not impressed at all with the mounting strap. There is so much fail in the strap that I almost don't trust it. Will give it a go on Monday and hope for the best. 100 lumen rear light with several flashing options and it is very bright.


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## DavidM310 (Nov 11, 2015)

TenSpeed said:


> Picked this up while I was out of town visiting some shops today with a buddy.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I agree with Lezyne straps. No issues so far on my Lezyne 900xl.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Got it perfect. I think... for now.


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## PCC (Sep 5, 2005)

I put Stan's fluid inside the tubes of my commuter. The front tire, knock on wood, has not had a flat but the rear tube had a patch on it. I think this may be because I took that tube from my road bike that I had flatted on the road and used it here. Anyway, the tubes do not have the removable cores so I did it the ghetto way.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

I don't actually know what I did to my Gryphon, but it feels _amazing_.

I've had it for a little more than a year, and it's always felt good (certainly better than the bike it replaced), but it's been in a state of constant tweaking because I always feel like I can make it better. So I switch between 60/75/90mm stems, flips the stems, swap spacers, move the seat up/down/forward/back, etc.

I can only compare it to my bridgestone, which is a total frankenbike, but which fits like a glove.

But I've got a few rides on the Gryphon in it's current setup, and this might be the point where I stop touching it, for fear of making it worse.

(Not sure if any of the other perma-tinkerers take notes so they can recreate previous setups, but my notes for today are: bar at 22deg, 75mm stem pointed up, 4cm spacers, saddle centred on clamp of raceface seatpost, seatpost has 3/4 of big scratch showing, saddle at 0deg, ebb fullforward)


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Actually I did not do anything to my bike, but my favorite lbs built in a new hollowtech ii bb and a used fsa v drive crankset for me. A while ago I picked up a used 26" wheel with an igh for my dahon cadenza folding bike and then all of a sudden, the guy pulls out this bag with an almost new crankset  that is now on my agent orange. I did not have the chance to ride the bike extensively but the first impression feels good.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Removed Specialized Stumjumper bars from Carve SL
Installed Cinelli Pepper rise bars on Carve SL which are fairly narrow
Installed rear Shimano hydraulic brake on Carve SL

If the Nokian studded tire wasn't such a pain in the --- to get on and off, I would throw my Continental CityGlide tires back on and ride this dang thing. Bar swap brought this bike alive. Feels so much more responsive and agile now. It goes against everything about mountain biking with the whole short stem wide bars thing. Don't care because I rarely take it off road.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

newfangled said:


> ^ Very snazzy. Based on the size of the downtube, I assume that's aluminum? Any issues finding a powdercoater? (I've heard it's trickier for Al because of the heat involved, but I actually have no idea)


Powdercoating works like this:

you put electrical charge ona part and spray it with a fine powder, the electricity makes the powder stick to the part. Then it goes into an oven at around 200C, then the powder melts onto to the frame.

Most powders seems to be done at a temperature that coincides with the aging temp for 6000 series alu.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Powdercoat on Steel (for reference): Black underlayer, green metalflake second layer and clear topcoat shine in sun, dark green black in shade:


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

sweet!!



BrianMc said:


> Powdercoat on Steel (for reference): Black underlayer, green metalflake second layer and clear topcoat shine in sun, dark green black in shade:


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Haven't actually done it yet, but I've decided to do a century ride as LLS Team in Training fundraiser. The ride is at Tahoe, and my 1x10 commuter isn't gonna cut it for 100mi in the mountains.

Started with some Gevenalle GX shifters, added a 10spd xt rear derailleur, a 105 front der., a Tiagra double crankset (cheaper than chainrings for my existing triple), and a few odds & ends.

I'll be riding my Vaya, but I need to make some changes. First and foremost, I'm going to bump it up to a triple. I'm already using a triple crankset with a single ring in the middle, so that's easy. Biggest change I need to make is with my shifters. I'm using some older Retroshift 1x specific shifters. It doesn't look like I'll be able to just swap the left one, so I'll need to replace my shifters to accommodate a front derailleur. Pictures will be forthcoming as I make those changes.

I plan on doing my "training" in full commuter mode with rack and fenders, with the current heavy puncture-resistant tires. For the event, I'll pull the rack and fenders and install some lighter, faster rolling tires.

I won't need to do much specific training for the event. I'll just need to ensure I get plenty of saddle time on this bike to make sure that any fit issues are addressed WELL in advance of the event. I'll be pulling the platform pedals and installing my clipless pedals, so that may force some fit adjustments. I never did use the free pro fit at the shop where I bought it. I'll probably take advantage of that.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Shifters arrived today.


Gevenalle GX levers by Nate, on Flickr

Just waiting on the rest of my drivetrain bits to arrive.

I really like Gevenalle levers. Of course, they're just Tektro brake levers and Microshift shifters, but they do some tweaking of the parts. Like with these brake levers being able to work with either long pull or short pull brakes. That's a mod that Gevenalle does in house.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ it amazes me that tektro doesn't just sell short/long pull version of those levers. That gevennalle mod is such a good idea, and I would totally buy a set without the shifty stuff.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

^^ What Century is it Harold? Do you have a route map? Rodar and/or myself have probably ridden chunks of it and can give you some intel...


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I put full fenders on it. SKS variety. Wait. What? I don't have a bike that will take full fenders. I do now. 

Buddy of mine decided that he wasn't riding his Specialized TriCross Elite enough so he sold it. I had the TriCross Disc before, but in a 56 and after riding it and messing with it, I absolutely loathed that bike. The Sora group that came on there was absolute garbage for me. Tinkered and messed with it and the cockpit and no matter what, in the end it just didn't fit me. This is a 58 and has SRAM Apex which has some crisp shifts. It rides like a dang dream. Had I purchased mine in a 58, after a drivetrain swap, I would have kept it. Thing barely weighs more than my carbon road bike. 

So now I guess I have an actual commuter bike. Fenders, mounts for a rack, disc brakes....what have I done? No pictures yet as I just picked it up this morning and haven't had time to get everything organized on the bike. He kept the saddle and gave me pedals. I threw something on to ride to the shop to do the fenders. Bar swap is coming up since I dislike the drops that come on it. Also going to remove the inline brakes and just use the hoods. Stem swapped out just to test fit something smaller. It is currently a hodge podge of colors and parts and is not in the final stage. Next Wednesday after I deliver, the rest of it will be done. Should have some pics at that time.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

CommuterBoy said:


> ^^ What Century is it Harold? Do you have a route map? Rodar and/or myself have probably ridden chunks of it and can give you some intel...


It's the "America's Most Beautiful Bike Ride" event. Route maps are supplied.

Pretty excited for it. I have wanted to do this for awhile. I am doing it as a fundraiser for Team in Training. A friend of mine is an accomplished 24hr mtb racer (she goes to worlds every year) and coaches the local team. Her husband passed away from leukemia years ago and she has been organizing this every year since. She has been prodding me to sign up for a few years now.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Saddle & post yanked from my fixed gear for the TC. I have a carbon post and a saddle I can use until I figure something out for it. Stem flipped and bars adjusted. Plain top cap installed. Actually excited to ride it to work today even though the temps are going to be really low. Can be parked inside today so that really helps with the cold hands on the ride home.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

From woodchipper, back to normal drops (again):



__
https://flic.kr/p/D8Vdfb

No reason, just bored, and I still don't really love the woodchipper. I hope I can keep my tinkering in check for about a month, because by then I might have the cross wheels on this bike, and I'd really like to try them with this bar, before I inevitably switch back to the woodchipper again.


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## hiphopopotamus (Feb 8, 2016)

After it not raining for over two weeks, I converted my commuter to "weekend trail mode".
Swapped the slicks for knobbies, fenders and rack are off, small frame bag is on.

Now of course it will start raining constantly.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

New tires:








Running them tubeless at 30-32 front and 40-42 rear, and the ride is s-m-o-o-t-h.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Last weekend:
BB7S mtn removed, TRP spyres installed.

Cockpit overhauled today:
New inner cables for brakes
New outer cable for front brake
New outer cables between brakelever and inbetween levers for both brakes
On one midge bar tilted upwards and brake levers adjusted on the bar
Wrapped two layers of new comfy cork bar tape
Cockpit is ready for another year.

Outstanding work:
rohloff oil change
Maybe mounting new summer tyres, although the conti wintercontact appeared to be just as fast as my marathon racer. So maybe, if I find a nice deal somewhere. Otherwise I just keep the winter tyres on.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

I have the new marathon supreme on order for this year Marathon Supreme - Schwalbe Professional Bike Tires


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Harold said:


> It's the "America's Most Beautiful Bike Ride" event. Route maps are supplied.
> 
> Pretty excited for it. I have wanted to do this for awhile. I am doing it as a fundraiser for Team in Training. A friend of mine is an accomplished 24hr mtb racer (she goes to worlds every year) and coaches the local team. Her husband passed away from leukemia years ago and she has been organizing this every year since. She has been prodding me to sign up for a few years now.


Just saw this... that is a super cool route around the lake. I've done pretty much the whole north end of that, including the highway 89 down-and-back along the bike path to Truckee. That is an awesome stretch of river/road that will be super fun. You are really dropping down though... I would have thought more than 600 feet, but that's what they say it is. It will be a haul back up to lake level to continue the route around the lake.

Looks like a blast. Have fun.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

CommuterBoy said:


> Just saw this... that is a super cool route around the lake. I've done pretty much the whole north end of that, including the highway 89 down-and-back along the bike path to Truckee. That is an awesome stretch of river/road that will be super fun. You are really dropping down though... I would have thought more than 600 feet, but that's what they say it is. It will be a haul back up to lake level to continue the route around the lake.
> 
> Looks like a blast. Have fun.


It'll be fun. I'm not concerned with the climbing at all.

FWIW, I tracked down this on Map My Ride that gives the route and elevation profile.

TNT - Americas Most Beautiful Bike Ride in South Lake Tahoe, NV, United States | MapMyRide

Truckee to the loop around the lake looks to be just about 370ft, but then there's a steep climb shortly after that that bumps you up to 647ft. The kicker at the end will hurt, but the first half of the elevation is dragged out over 10+mi. That doesn't bother me at all. I may not have mountains where I live, but what I do have are a lot of 300ft climbs in less than a mile. The better mtb destinations around here manage to pack several of those sorts of climbs to get your overall elevation total easily into the multi-thousand miles in a 20mi ride. We'll be doing training rides for this event where we do hill work on these same sorts of hills. Steep, punchy 300ft climbs over and over again. Not enough time on the downhill to recover for the next one.

Part of the reason I set my bike up with such low end gearing.

I'm not the least bit concerned about the long sustained climbs with lower grades. I've got the gearing range. I'll find a comfortable cadence and plug along. My friend who coaches this group has said it's actually a pretty easy century because the long, sustained downhills really let you recover for the next climb.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

^^ and with the scenery and the company, the miles will fly by. Truly a beautiful route. 

Yeah that next climb after Tahoe City will be the kicker, but it's not horrible. Something about the River rumbling downhill with you on the way to Truckee makes it feel like you're really losing elevation.. mental thing probably.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

car bone said:


> I have the new marathon supreme on order for this year Marathon Supreme - Schwalbe Professional Bike Tires


Currently I cant decide between the new Schwalbe Marathon Cross 40-622, Conti Speedride 40-622 or Conti TopContact 2 in 42-622 (or 7-622 if I can squeeze them in my frame).


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

I bought this!

nitto rm014 dirtdrop


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

car bone said:


> I bought this!
> 
> nitto rm014 dirtdrop


Those look good. I like the shape on them.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

car bone said:


> nitto rm014 dirtdrop


Huh, I had no idea that any of the nitto stuff came in 31.8.

That's dangerous, because I'm always looking for another handlebar to waste money on, but I'd always skipped over their stuff because I don't want to use shims.

Looks nice though. I'm a big fan of flared drops.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Do you have a pic from the side?!


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

car bone said:


> I bought this! Nitto rm014 dirtdrop


Looks a lot like their randoneuring bar with a built up center section and a flatter top:



I really like this bar.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

cyclingdutchman said:


> Do you have a pic from the side?!


Yeah I can snap one while standing on the flat parts of the drops.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

BrianMc said:


> Looks a lot like their randoneuring bar with a built up center section and a flatter top:
> 
> 
> 
> I really like this bar.


these ones also flair (flare??) outwards back to front but at a moderate angle. and also flare outwards top to bottom.

I'm snapping 2 more pics.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

ok more pics of the nittos. You can find these at like 2 places and one of them has a pic comparison with the other nitto dirt drop in their blog.

All these pics are taken at an arms lengths distance with an 18mm focal length on a dslr with a aps-c size sensor. (where a "normal" would be 28mm)
Then you know the perspective.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Thx.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

On my TriCross:

Installed new FSA SL-K 90mm stem
Added a spacer, now alternating matte black with gloss black
Installed Cinelli Vai seatpost
Installed Selle San Marco Ponza saddle in grey and red
Installed FSA Energy bars with Lizard Skin DSP tape
Made all adjustments to bar angle/shifter angle
Installed really cool red reflective Cinelli bar plugs that my buddy from the LBS gave me
Adjusted SKS fenders for less of a fender look and a more sleek look
Installed Garmin stem mount
Installed Cygolite HotShot taillight mount

I have not posted any pictures of this bike yet, will try to get some today on my commute. My apartment is just not a good place to take a good picture of a bike.


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## RC51 RIDER (Mar 9, 2015)

Started upgrading my Giant Revel 29er 
New Seat 
Pedals
Tires
Grips
Lights

I only ride to work for exercise and some street !










Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Swapped out the 42t round chainring for a 40t absoluteBLACK oval ring:


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ that's very pretty. Have you used an oval ring before?

I really liked my ab ring when I started using it last year. It's been in storage all winter, but I'm looking forward to swapping it back on in a week or two.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

newfangled said:


> ^ that's very pretty. Have you used an oval ring before?
> 
> I really liked my ab ring when I started using it last year. It's been in storage all winter, but I'm looking forward to swapping it back on in a week or two.


Yup, I have a 28t aB oval ring on my MTB.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> Swapped out the 42t round chainring for a 40t absoluteBLACK oval ring:
> 
> View attachment 1054324


someone seems to have run over it with a car though?? and alu?? really?

I'm having bad luck trying to find unramped steel chainrings. Since the alu ones just last for like 1 year. so now i have decieded to have my fathers friend make me some rings out of SSAB hardox 500 steel instead (aka bulletproof plate). 42t in 104 4 bolt and 130 5 bolt. I'm guessing they will last at least 10 times longer than the alu crapola.
fuk alu!


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

newfangled said:


> ^ that's very pretty. Have you used an oval ring before?


I know you're not asking me, but for me I can say "yes I have". Back in 1998 or so, it was called "biopace" by Shimano.

@GRAVELBIKE: Very pretty!


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

cyclingdutchman said:


> I know you're not asking me, but for me I can say "yes I have". Back in 1998 or so, it was called "biopace" by Shimano.
> 
> @GRAVELBIKE: Very pretty!


are you ever "going back"?


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

cyclingdutchman said:


> I know you're not asking me, but for me I can say "yes I have". Back in 1998 or so, it was called "biopace" by Shimano.
> 
> @GRAVELBIKE: Very pretty!


Me too. I still have a the largest of my original triple on my old Gary Fisher Paragon that has been converted to a commuter. The smaller two rings were replaced over the years.


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## AthleticAL (Feb 9, 2015)

^Nice ride!

I picked up some new tires for the Mrs. from REI because her back tire was dry-rotting with a badly cracking sidewall. I love Conti Travelcontacts. Smooth and fast, very flat-resistant, surprisingly off-road capable... BUT the sidewalls dry-rot far too quickly IMO.

So I picked these up since she doesn't take her bike off-road. We'll see how they do. My (off-road) experience with Vittorias (formerly Geax in some markets) has been positive.

Vittoria Randonneur Cross-
View attachment 1054489


Bonus! I get the hand-me-down Conti from the front of her bike. It'll be a spare for me, provided that it doesn't rot before I can use it!


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Replaced the chain on my cross bike with a Campy one. By dumb luck, I shortened it on the correct end, only reading the tag on the other end later that says don't mess with this end, leave this link in place.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

AthleticAL said:


> ^Nice ride!
> 
> I picked up some new tires for the Mrs. from REI because her back tire was dry-rotting with a badly cracking sidewall. I love Conti Travelcontacts. Smooth and fast, very flat-resistant, surprisingly off-road capable... BUT the sidewalls dry-rot far too quickly IMO.


I like those too and agree on smooth and fast. In addition I would say that they are very grippy in mud etc due to the knobs on the sides.

Unfortunately they are very narrow, the 622-42mm I had were only 38mm and 622-50mm probably wont fit my frame  even when they would be only 46mm wide.

I had them for about 2000km/1300m and the sidewalls do look rotten very fast, but mine no issues whatsoever and I have never read anything about problems with the sidewall either, besides visually unappealing. But made for touringbikes that not always can be put away safely at night, that might even be a feature, not a bug ;o))


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## AthleticAL (Feb 9, 2015)

cyclingdutchman said:


> I like those too and agree on smooth and fast. In addition I would say that they are very grippy in mud etc due to the knobs on the sides.
> 
> Unfortunately they are very narrow, the 622-42mm I had were only 38mm and 622-50mm probably wont fit my frame  even when they would be only 46mm wide.
> 
> I had them for about 2000km/1300m and the sidewalls do look rotten very fast, but mine no issues whatsoever and I have never read anything about problems with the sidewall either, besides visually unappealing. But made for touringbikes that not always can be put away safely at night, that might even be a feature, not a bug ;o))


I tolerate lightly-cracked sidewalls. But when you can see the tube....! Other than that cracking and eventual separation (and I've had 2 do that now counting my wife's) I'm still a fan. It amazes me when I take them off-road and they climb and cross over well enough. But hard braking (off-road) is not their forté!


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

AthleticAL said:


> I tolerate lightly-cracked sidewalls. But when you can see the tube....!


Oooff thats tough. How old were they and have they been exposed to sunlight excessively maybe? Did you contact continental? Its their premium trekking tyre,.they should be interested in this if they were not totally worn out from riding too....


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## 2wTrekr (Oct 1, 2015)

*'96 Schwinn Moab 3, modded to run up to 29" 700c wheels*

This Moab 3 is a base model from 1996, steel MTB/hybrid frame, running 26" Araya wheels stock.

I have other bikes, but I seem to ride this one the most, just comfortable with it like the proverbial old pair of sneakers or jeans...

I finally got around to adding 
a few 'swap-mods,'
to allow the bike to run 29" (700c) wheelsets, with tire widths up to 40-42mm. The bike can readily be switched back to 26" wheels, with a simple pad adjust to the brakes.

The conversion consists of 2 main mods:
1. a new steering column, and
2. a new v-brake system.

The sloppy low-grade stock suspension fork (RST 171b) 
was swapped for a *Kona P2 fork (410mm a-c)*. 
Btw, another good fork for this would be a 
*Salsa CroMoto fork, @ 425mm a-c*. 
There's a Nashbar 26" rigid fork but it's a bit long IMO for the geometry needed on this frame. it has 450mm a-c, 
which drastically raised the front/geometry of the bike when I tried it.

The fork swap required a switch to threadless, so I just went ahead and swapped the rest of the steering column too: 
headset, stem and handlebar.

Kona P2 fork, $80 / FSA DH Pro headset, $30 / Profile stem, $30 / generic alloy bar (onhand spare) = $140

The brake system was changed from stock cantilever to V-brakes (linear-pull), with a certain type of long-arm V-brake: 
125mm arms, with 44mm of pad travel. This gives crucial versatility 
to the bike, which allows wheelsets ranging from 26" to 29" (700c).

These long-arm brakes are on 'eBA' from at least one Taiwan seller. Good quality, and *worlds* more affordable than a pair of 
Paul Motolite BMX long v-brakes (USA made on CNC) !!! 
For the Taiwan brakes, I paid $36.50 US with free shipping 
for the set (both wheels) I have on the bike.

I also swapped for Avid FR-5 brake levers, and Jagwire brake cables, not pricey at all: @ $37:Brakeset / Avid FR-5 lever set: $14 / cableset (2): $5. 
Total cost of new V-brake system: $56

I added 3M Diamond Grade reflective tape to the forks and stays for enhanced commuting visibility.
I saved all the old parts to put it back stock if I ever felt like reverting it to stock/original. Here's a few pics:


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ Good stuff. You should add it to: http://forums.mtbr.com/commuting/26-700c-conversion-pics-571370-4.html


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

newfangled said:


> ^ Good stuff. You should add it to: http://forums.mtbr.com/commuting/26-700c-conversion-pics-571370-4.html


Thanks! I was trying to find that one for him and somehow couldn't find it.


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## danec99 (Jul 22, 2010)

First up was new chainrings for the XTR crank. Must have seen a lot of mileage with the original owner, and I added 4000.







Then decided to revive this set of tires from Performance from the early 90's. Love them. Similar tread to Conti Cyclocross Speed.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Full spring switchover for me. Gears to singlespeed, and studs to studless. And I've got a brandnew 29+ tire upfront this year, which should be interesting.

I was a little hesitant to make the switch, because I'd been really happy with the tire setup I'd been using for the last 5 years. And finding a singlespeed setup that's comfy for commuting and trails is pretty tough, and I didn't want to screw that up. But after 5 years it was time for a change, and so far after one commute it still feels pretty zippy on the road. Or at least, it doesn't feel as if I'm slogging through mud like my Dirt Wizard does, so that's good.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

__________________________________


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Good Stuff.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

New Shoes.



__
https://flic.kr/p/FabZa7


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

^^ What's the model? I'm considering gum-walls to match my new Brooks Cambium saddle. Those look sharp. And are they Tubeless?


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ No luck for you unfortunately - they're 26" bmx tires (maxxis dth).

My bigapples were getting long in the tooth, and I wasn't sure what to get. As much as I've drooled over the white fat franks, I think having a white tire that's always covered in dirt would bug me. Maxxis has had these for a while, but just this year they started offering them as skinwall *and* folding _*and*_ 2.3. And that's perfect for the old bridgestone.

In 29", it depends how knobby you want, but the skinwall Ardent rolls pretty nice on pavement (although it's no big apple). And Onza has some skinwall knobbies too. I was actually disappointed how few "urban" skinwall tires there are out there - it seems to make as much sense as knobbies.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Hmmmmm... I was looking at the tan Fat Franks also... but a 29er version of those would be just perfect.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I don't know why schwalbe doesn't offer a nice, black fatfrank with skinwalls or whitewalls. The tan tread + whitewall is too much for me.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

The tan and white I don't like, but these are nice:









They are a bit too dark for my seat though...


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ can you still get those, though? I think schwalbe phased them out 2+ years ago, so now it's just the tan+whitewall. Unless there's old stock somewhere.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

You're a real downer. :lol: 

I have no idea.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ sorry.  I was stalking the internet for bigapple replacements for the entire winter, and would inevitably end up back at the schwalbe site thinking "who actually wants a brown whitewall?"


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## AthleticAL (Feb 9, 2015)

Swapped a 1.75" Conti TravelContact for a 2.0" that had a factory defect--that I rode for a few hundred miles.

Sweet! No more wobble! And skinnier = lighter and quicker on the road, but a little less capable off-road (not the primary purpose of this bike). Trade-offs are so typical of our two-wheeled wonders, eh?


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## RC51 RIDER (Mar 9, 2015)

I ordered a new blacked out cassette and Gold chain for Giant Revel 29er and ordered a Cygolite Pro 80 tail light to match my Cygolite Metro 550 front one !









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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Did a bit of trading and borrowing. Traded out my SRAM S80 front wheel with a buddy for his Aerospoke. Was not using the S80 much and liked the ride of the Aerospoke so we worked it out. Also borrowed a Zipp aero tri bar (just the bar, not the clip ons or anything) they look a lot like bullhorns just a tad bit shorter and flatter. Slapped some wrap on just the ends of those and will give them a run tomorrow. They look pretty cool, and my choice of wrap was slightly unexpected.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Went down to the shop and put my big apples on plus cleaned her up with some bike wash. As soon as may hits I will bikeaid all the "joints".


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

newfangled said:


> ^ sorry.  I was stalking the internet for bigapple replacements for the entire winter, and would inevitably end up back at the schwalbe site thinking "who actually wants a brown whitewall?"


Just stumbled on the Schwalbe Big Ben. They make a cream, brown, grey, and black. Basically a Big Apple with slightly deeper tread.

Big Ben HS 439 | Schwalbe North America

Not a gum wall, but I think I'm gonna try the cream and see how well they match the Brooks.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ In principle, I must boycott any tire named "Big" Ben that maxes out at 2.15.


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## RC51 RIDER (Mar 9, 2015)

Purchased a Cygolite Metro 550 and a Cygolite pro 80 and a Surface M3 saddle for my Giant Revel 29er !

















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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

huh. Where did you get the chain, I've never seen one in clamshell packaging before, only bags/cardboard sleeves?


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## RC51 RIDER (Mar 9, 2015)

wschruba said:


> huh. Where did you get the chain, I've never seen one in clamshell packaging before, only bags/cardboard sleeves?


I wanted gold chain to go with my Shimano black cassette so I had to go through ebay to get a factory direct one from KMC that only took 14 days







!

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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Spring maintenance has begun for me - repacked my 29er's hubs, and replaced a stripped (stupid torx) chainring bolt that had been bugging me.


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## RC51 RIDER (Mar 9, 2015)

Finally got my chain and cassette installed ! I like the look and it Shifts way smoother!



















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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

New Bike Day! Picked up a mostly complete Karate Monkey at the coop last night for nearly nothing. I just needed to throw a chain, freewheel, and some brakes on it and it is ready to rip. Gonna run it rigid SS. It currently has some really goofy, ultra-narrow flat bars on it which seem odd to me for a SS mtb. I would really like to try dirt drops. I plan to steer clear of woodchippers because everyone I hear who has them can't get the positioning right. So what bars then? Thinking midge, soma junebug, or Origin8 Gary2. Probably will go with the Origin8. Anyone here have an opinion?

I'm going to break the rules and NOT post a picture of my prized new steed.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Crazy jealous of that score! Nice. 

I want to try the cowchippers... they sound like a sweet spot between the cowbell and the woodchipper. No experience there though. I have a normal (but widest I could find) road bar on my Ogre (same geo as the Karate Monkey).


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

I took mine from looking like this:










to looking like this:










In order to have it ready for our LBS club ride, which is a gravel ride tonight. Took off the heavy cruiser bar, put one that is kind of like a Mary bar back on, and took off the racks. Will put the rear rack right back on for commuting purposes. Obviously I was not commuting today as I am using the bike for other purposes tonight and am driving to the starting point. Will probably leave the front rack off for now, as I do not use it commuting. Will put it back on for bike touring trips as they come up.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

CommuterBoy said:


> Crazy jealous of that score! Nice.
> 
> I want to try the cowchippers... they sound like a sweet spot between the cowbell and the woodchipper. No experience there though. I have a normal (but widest I could find) road bar on my Ogre (same geo as the Karate Monkey).


Thanks! Couldn't believe it when I walked in and saw that lying in the corner. It seems most people there didn't know what they had (labels were mostly worn off) and the ones that did didn't fit on it.

I hadn't heard of the cowchippers until you mentioned them. I'll see what my LBS suggests. I was looking at the Origin8 bars and the On One midge. I have a tiny 50mm stem to use with the new drops, whichever I choose.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Kleebs said:


> I have a tiny 50mm stem to use with the new drops, whichever I choose.


I have a 50mm downhill stem on the Ogre with a road bar that has the "oversized" (for a road bike) 31.8mm clamp area. Works great for me.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

I stripped the commuter frankenbike down to the bare frame and fork last night. It is going in for powdercoating this weekend. Developing some rust from the salt of Ohio winters so I want to get it cleaned up and recoated before the rust gets bad. It is a good excuse for a total refresh of grease, cables, etc. Will probably swap the old Altus triple cranks with one of my old cranks laying in the parts bin. The chainrings can't be removed from the Altus cranks so I was dragging around 3 rings even though I had set it up to run it as a 1x on the big ring. The crank swap will allow me to ditch the useless rings and get better chainline.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Kleebs said:


> I stripped the commuter frankenbike down to the bare frame and fork last night. It is going in for powdercoating this weekend. Developing some rust from the salt of Ohio winters so I want to get it cleaned up and recoated before the rust gets bad. It is a good excuse for a total refresh of grease, cables, etc. Will probably swap the old Altus triple cranks with one of my old cranks laying in the parts bin. The chainrings can't be removed from the Altus cranks so I was dragging around 3 rings even though I had set it up to run it as a 1x on the big ring. The crank swap will allow me to ditch the useless rings and get better chainline.


If the number on the back of the crank says 'CT-90', they're part of an ongoing recall; if you send them back to Shimano, they'll send you a new crank, bottom bracket, front derailleur, and chain...


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

wschruba said:


> If the number on the back of the crank says 'CT-90', they're part of an ongoing recall; if you send them back to Shimano, they'll send you a new crank, bottom bracket, front derailleur, and chain...


Thanks. I'll check it out when I get home.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Nice score on the Monkey. What kind of riding do you plan to do on it?


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

TenSpeed said:


> Nice score on the Monkey. What kind of riding do you plan to do on it?


Rigid SS mountain biking mostly, though it will probably be one of my go to bikes for just riding around town. There will be occasional races too. One of the local mountain bike race series is running a kinda goofy SS short track race that is supplemental to the normal races.


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## RC51 RIDER (Mar 9, 2015)

Got a new Chain and Cassette put on my 29er !










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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Well, I just spent the better part of 2 hours hunting down a creaking sound that sounds like it is coming from the fork on my fixed gear. After each change I took it out in the parking lot for a test ride. Exhausting if you ask me. Oh, and we tightened down the cranks earlier at the shop in their good stand vs my POS stand and ensured that the rear wheel was in the dropouts evenly and tightly.

Removed stem and bars and headset. Visual inspection of steerer tube, fork, and frame. Inspected headset, did not need to grease it. Wiped steerer tube off and reassembled. 
Swapped to a different stem and same bars. Rode. Still creaking.
Swapped front wheel out with a wheel from my geared carbon road bike. Rode. Still creaking.
Removed seatpost and saddle. Rode. Still creaking.
Removed front brake. Rode. Still creaking.
Swapped original bullhorns that I used to run back on. Rode. Still creaking but not as much. Hmmm.
Loosened stem and tension bolt and redid that. Rode. Still a bit of a creak but not as much.
All bolts were greased, from the brake caliper to the stem bolts. 
Inspected saddle bolts as well although it still creaked even with the carbon post out.
Put everything back together and walked away from it. Will have to have my buddy at the shop take a look I guess. There is not much else to check that I can think of unless I am missing something. 

Suggestions?


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Replaced my Phorm grips with a set of Ergon GC1s. For those curious about Phorm, they're ok but the rubber is very soft which did not do it for me.


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## JoeyCapps (Sep 30, 2012)

My first dedicated commuter rig.
2016 Giant Escape 3.
Topeak rack and trunk.

Today I added a few things to it.
$3 incredibell.
$2 reflector tape.
Spoke reflectors
Insulation I had laying around.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Gave the fixed gear a complete wipe down and cleaning only to wake up today to wet roads and drizzle. F this weather. Seriously.


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## RC51 RIDER (Mar 9, 2015)

Put on some new locking grips and Avid levers ! And since I don't have any red on my bike I painted the Red dial black !










Sent from my Samsung Note 5


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## Chippertheripper (Sep 10, 2014)

I bet that sled sounds mean! ^


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## RC51 RIDER (Mar 9, 2015)

Lol. It definitely has a GROWL!

Sent from my Samsung Note 5


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## chazpat (Sep 23, 2006)

TenSpeed said:


> Well, I just spent the better part of 2 hours hunting down a creaking sound that sounds like it is coming from the fork on my fixed gear. After each change I took it out in the parking lot for a test ride. Exhausting if you ask me. Oh, and we tightened down the cranks earlier at the shop in their good stand vs my POS stand and ensured that the rear wheel was in the dropouts evenly and tightly.
> 
> Removed stem and bars and headset. Visual inspection of steerer tube, fork, and frame. Inspected headset, did not need to grease it. Wiped steerer tube off and reassembled.
> Swapped to a different stem and same bars. Rode. Still creaking.
> ...


I've always had a hard time finding creaks, you think you know the area where they are coming from but it's actually elsewhere. My old Santa Cruz Superlight would start creaking and drive me crazy. I finally found removing, cleaning and regreasing the bottom bracket would solve the problem. Any chance this could be your source? Guess that wouldn't explain re-tensioning the stem helping but maybe you're on the wrong track as to where it is coming from?

chaz


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Prepped the carbon Felt Z5 for road duty again. Installed Specialized Phenom 143 saddle that I got on a steal from eBay rounding out the entire collections saddle choice (4). Full wipe down, air in the tires, lubed the chain, inspected headset tension, seatpost collar tension and brakes. I have only ridden this bike a whopping 45 miles this year so far. Need to get it in the rotation more. Looking forward to riding it to work today and might put a few extra miles in later on tonight on the return trip.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Installed sram s500 brake levers, tektro crossstop in-between-levers and conti speedrides in 42-622 today, plus an oil change for the rohloff speedhub. Brake levers are far more comfortable than the rl520+rl740 levers I had before. The speedrides make a good first impression, will see now how they are in daily use. At least it was possible to get them on the rim properly, the first conti tires I have that sit on the rim properly. And the width is ok too,.just below 42mm is ok for me. First ipression is that they are pretty fast and grippy bou will give more details on that later, when I have some more experience with them.The studs on the side are quite small, which looks good but will probably have little use in muddy conditions. We'll see.

Outstanding work:
new chain and mounting front chainring and cog the other way around, since the current side is worn after 7000km/4375m. On this distance it is the 2nd shimano hg53 chain to be worn, will now install a kmc x1 and see how that works.


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## rogbie (Jun 20, 2011)

Finally got the removable basket brazed together for the porteur rack.









Still needs finishing, but that's after a soak in a hot bath. Cooked flux is miserable to remove.

Next projects are light mounts and tie-down points for a bungee net I'm dreaming up.


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## JoeyCapps (Sep 30, 2012)

Added the ESGE Twin.
Unfortunately no commuting this week since I've gotta be all over the place in an amount of time not possible by my legs lol.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Cleaned the drivetrain on the fixed gear. Gross doesn't begin to describe it. I was at the LBS, and completely ashamed of myself for letting it go. My buddy was giving me so much crap that I had no choice but to clean it.


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

I took my fenders off. Apologies for the forthcoming rain on the west coast :lol:


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## lost-in-endicott (May 12, 2016)

JoeyCapps said:


> Added the ESGE Twin.
> Unfortunately no commuting this week since I've gotta be all over the place in an amount of time not possible by my legs lol.


Did you cut the legs down, or did you leave them as-is? I installed the same kickstand on my commuter, but left the legs at the original length. I thought changing a flat without turning the bike upside down was pretty handy. Mine looks a little dorky with the front wheel 5 inches off the ground, but I like the utility better.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

Lots to be done this weekend. Parts came in for the drop bar conversion on the karate monkey. Going to be putting some cowchippers on with tektro long pull levers, and swapping the 42 ring for a 36. 

Got my commuter frame back from the powder coater. It looks great and no more rust! I am treating her to a new outboard bottom bracket and a race face crank that I had in the parts bin and some new cantis. The salt from the last 3 winters rusted the hell out of the cheap steel parts in the old shimano altus cantis that it came with and they were pretty close to seized. Going with new tektro 720 cantis. Then I just need to build her up again with new chain, cables, and maybe cassette.

Oh and somewhere in there I have to spread 4 cubic yards of mulch and race 2 mountain bike races!


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Put the new Blackburn central fenders on my ogre today. By eyeballing it I would say they cover slightly more length than my cascadia's did.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Installed Cowchipper bars on my Vaya the other day. Also installed some gel padding underneath ESI silicone bar tape. Ohhhh, the cush.

I'm a little annoyed by all the clutter on the bike at the moment. I'm in century training mode, so the top tube bag is there primarily for food and my phone. I also want to move to a SON dynamo hub/light setup and get the headlight off the bars and with a cleaner install. That will also allow me to downside the seat bag to something just big enough for my repair kit.


DSCF2674 by Nate, on Flickr


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Century training mode? I did a back to back consecutive weekend century rides on a carbon road bike with no fenders and a small saddle bag and a rear taillight. That's it. Phone in jersey pocket, no front light needed since it was during the day. Saddle bag had money/credit card, repair kit and multi tool. Clif bars/gel packs in other jersey pocket. We stopped for lunch and to get more water. 

The most mileage I had done in one day before the century was about 65-70 and that was with multiple stops. Don't over think this or over pack for it.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

TenSpeed said:


> Century training mode? I did a back to back consecutive weekend century rides on a carbon road bike with no fenders and a small saddle bag and a rear taillight. That's it. Phone in jersey pocket, no front light needed since it was during the day. Saddle bag had money/credit card, repair kit and multi tool. Clif bars/gel packs in other jersey pocket. We stopped for lunch and to get more water.
> 
> The most mileage I had done in one day before the century was about 65-70 and that was with multiple stops. Don't over think this or over pack for it.


It is set up for utilitarian commuting. All the stuff is getting pulled off and lighter tires installed for the century for easier/faster riding. I am less concerned about the heavy stuff bolted on for the training. But for simplicity sake, I eventually want a dynamo hub so I can clean a lot of things up rlated to the lights, wiring, and battery.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Installed a new chain, kmc x1 instead of shimano hg53. 
Turned the front chainring around and had a new cog installed on my igh in the rear. Wanted to turn it around at first, but after we took it off and cleaned it, it looked so bad I rather had a new one installed. 
The old cog had 7100km on it.

-

Harold, that cowchipper looks good. iirc you had an on one midge before? Since I have a midge too I would be interested in a mid-term review, so after riding it for a few weeks and after finetuning everything.
And good look for your century & training!


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Made a bike rack under the car port area off our garage, for the commuters, cruisers, townies, etc. Used mostly old wood I had around, and bought only a 2x4 and 3 firring strips, and some metal eyelets to hold the kryptonite cables for locking.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Nice work SVL! By the saddle heights I guess 7 bikes for 2 persons?


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

cyclingdutchman said:


> Nice work SVL! By the saddle heights I guess 7 bikes for 2 persons?


Nope. Family of five represented there. but my wife's bike is not in that shot other than the monster surf green cruiser (that I kinda hate because it is such a heavy, large pig) on the right. ( Looking at the pick showing the bikes from the rear.) My red commuter conversion from my old fisher is visible, as are two medium mountain bikes(Giant Trances) that are my teen boys'. (they are going back inside the locked garage for now, but were there for testing.) They (the boys) are both plus or minus my height. The boys' old hand me down Motobecane (chinese) is far left. My daughter's current Scott hardtail is just to the left of my wife's cruiser. The little white cruiser (my daughter's) is to be sold. My wife's old Fisher HooKooEKoo, will be retired to townie use and will take a spot. As will my wife's '87 Specialized Rockhopper, also for backup/townie use. My wife is getting a new mountain bike and the nicer, current mountain bikes will stay inside the garage I think.

the Rockhopper is going to go with my son as he leaves the home after finishing highschool and moves to Seattle, as his commuter. The old black chinese Motobecane will be the general townie/beater. As will my wife's HooKooEKoo.

EDIT: So yeah, we have lots of bikes.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I added an Arundel Looney Bin cage


Arundel Looney Bin by Nate, on Flickr

New job with a short commute I'll be biking a LOT more. My favorite travel coffee mug isn't bike-friendly, and I frankly don't want to put a cupholder on my bars. I have this other travel mug, a GSI which is also good for French press and loose-leaf teas, that seals pretty well. The commute is too short to worry about drinking on the ride, but I like to bring coffee along. New shop also lacks a coffee maker. Folks usually just go to the Starbucks which is only a 2 minute walk. That's too expensive for my daily joe, so I think I'm going to stash a bag of French press grounds at work so I can make some during the day when I feel the need. There is, at least, a way to boil water.

This GSI mug doesn't quite fit in a standard bottle cage. I made it fit the other day, but it wasn't a great fit. The Looney Bin handles it perfectly. I'll be testing it out on my commute tomorrow.


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## fotooutdoors (Jul 8, 2010)

Harold said:


> I added an Arundel Looney Bin cage
> 
> I'll be testing it out on my commute tomorrow.


Let us know how it goes. I start a real job in a couple months(currently a grad student) and I suspect something like that may need to happen to avoid expensive or crappy coffee.

Typed on my phone. Pardon the autocorrect.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

fotooutdoors said:


> Let us know how it goes. I start a real job in a couple months(currently a grad student) and I suspect something like that may need to happen to avoid expensive or crappy coffee.
> 
> Typed on my phone. Pardon the autocorrect.


Will do. I expect it'll go great and that this is exactly what I need.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

fotooutdoors said:


> Let us know how it goes. I start a real job in a couple months(currently a grad student) and I suspect something like that may need to happen to avoid expensive or crappy coffee.
> 
> Typed on my phone. Pardon the autocorrect.


It worked great this morning, and brought my empty mug home with no upsets.

I had a mishap and spilled some joe this morning before even finishing pouring it out of the pot, but the Arundel cage did its job. This will be getting used super regularly. Now to decide what beans I want to grind for French press and keep at work.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ any early thoughts on the cowchipper?

I'd been running my flared-but-not-quite-as-flared-as-the-cowchipper dropbar on bike #3 for a few months now, but just switched back to the woodchipper last week. It's such a weird bar, but it might be a touch more comfortable than the other one.

I've finally got duplicates of everything - levers, tape, shifter mount, stem - so now I can switch the bars back and forth in ~15 minutes without messing anything up, so I forsee many pointless barswaps in my future.


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## chazpat (Sep 23, 2006)

Harold said:


> It worked great this morning, and brought my empty mug home with no upsets.
> 
> I had a mishap and spilled some joe this morning before even finishing pouring it out of the pot, but the Arundel cage did its job. This will be getting used super regularly. Now to decide what beans I want to grind for French press and keep at work.


Ok Harold, here's a challenge for you: Design a bike powered coffee grinder to go on your bike. Load it up with beans in the morning, ride to work, dump the freshly ground coffee into a french press (guess you'll have to purchase that), and enjoy.

chaz


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

I hope to be replacing my very worn out bb7s with some trp spykes this evening or the next. I was going to swap to another set of bb7s I have here that are practically new, but I am tired of the adjustments and constant rubbing. I swapped the bb7-r off my gravel bike for a set of TRP HYRD's and life is much better now.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

chazpat said:


> Ok Harold, here's a challenge for you: Design a bike powered coffee grinder to go on your bike. Load it up with beans in the morning, ride to work, dump the freshly ground coffee into a french press (guess you'll have to purchase that), and enjoy.
> 
> chaz


Been done.

Gear Grinder: How to make the Most Hipster Coffee on the Planet - Bikerumor



newfangled said:


> ^ any early thoughts on the cowchipper?
> 
> I'd been running my flared-but-not-quite-as-flared-as-the-cowchipper dropbar on bike #3 for a few months now, but just switched back to the woodchipper last week. It's such a weird bar, but it might be a touch more comfortable than the other one.
> 
> I've finally got duplicates of everything - levers, tape, shifter mount, stem - so now I can switch the bars back and forth in ~15 minutes without messing anything up, so I forsee many pointless barswaps in my future.


The cowchipper as I have it set up is heavenly. I'm using ESI silicone bar tape with Fizik gel bar padding. Now that I've found my missing Endura gloves (with padding in the right places for me), my hands feel like they're on a cloud. Hand positions on the cowchipper are exactly what I need. The cowchippers are very short front-to-back, so I had to add a longer stem (which I had in my workshop already) to get my hands out where I needed them. The drop position on them is exactly what I wanted.


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## fotooutdoors (Jul 8, 2010)

Harold said:


> It worked great this morning, and brought my empty mug home with no upsets.
> 
> I had a mishap and spilled some joe this morning before even finishing pouring it out of the pot, but the Arundel cage did its job. This will be getting used super regularly. Now to decide what beans I want to grind for French press and keep at work.


Thanks for the update. I will put it in my back of the mind list.

Typed on my phone. Pardon the autocorrect.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

I myself use a Contigo thermal mug that I put in my SKS Slide Cage. After 6-7 months no issue at all. Now that it is getting warm, I put very cold water in it on the way home, works just as well as hot tea in the morning.

I found some inspiration from this thread, which is before I joined here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/commuting/coffee-commute-836545.html

Harold, thanks for your report on the cowchipper so far.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

A 3D printed fork crown GoPro mount from shapeway and a LNM Urban GoPro mount, wonder what's going to happen next?

Update 05/27:








Added a set of TRP Spykes to replace my very old BB7s which I hated most of the time anyways. I am now Avid free.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I got some Clement X'plor USH tires on the way for my Vaya. Doing an 85 miler on Monday, and a century next weekend. I've been using HEAVY wire bead hybrid tires with a stiff puncture protection belt for years. They've been reliable, but not the most comfy tire, and not the best rolling.

The Clements should be puncture resistant enough for my needs, plus add comfort. The reduced weight, I think, will be the most important factor. 120tpi, folding bead. Should be nice and supple.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Got my Vaya's new shoes installed. Dropped about 2lbs of rotating weight (and it's still got tubes!) just by swapping tires. These are a touch narrower, but should make a HUGE difference for the long rides I've got coming within the next week. Tallying things up in my head, I think I'm going to hit 200mi on my Vaya within the next 7 days all told.


DSCF2679 by Nate, on Flickr

Thanks to Mr. Pink's posts about that Shapeways adapter, I bought one for my Vaya and my Magicshine light. Mine's a touch different, though. This one says it's for bikes with disc brakes, which looks like it means it just doesn't have clearance for a regular road caliper. I also bought a Shapeways Cree light GoPro adapter, but it's more or less poo. It won't fit my Magicshine, and it won't fit my other Chinese LED light. So to get everything set up, I had to steal a vancbiker machined alu adapter from another light I have. I guess I'm just going to have to order another one of those for the light I took this one from.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

cyclingdutchman said:


> Harold, that cowchipper looks good. iirc you had an on one midge before? Since I have a midge too I would be interested in a mid-term review, so after riding it for a few weeks and after finetuning everything.
> And good look for your century & training!


Just saw this. I'm LOVING the cowchipper bar. I haven't done any terribly long rides on it yet. I've got a lot of 2-4mi commute rides right now. I'm doing 85mi on Monday, though, and I'll have a better review of it then.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Harold said:


> Got my Vaya's new shoes installed. Dropped about 2lbs of rotating weight (and it's still got tubes!) just by swapping tires. These are a touch narrower, but should make a HUGE difference for the long rides I've got coming within the next week. Tallying things up in my head, I think I'm going to hit 200mi on my Vaya within the next 7 days all told.
> 
> 
> DSCF2679 by Nate, on Flickr
> ...


I sent the guy a message but have not heard back about exchanging the one I have for that version, I did not realize that when I ordered it since I have a disc brake ogre. The mount works but it does bob a bit.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Mr Pink57 said:


> I sent the guy a message but have not heard back about exchanging the one I have for that version, I did not realize that when I ordered it since I have a disc brake ogre. The mount works but it does bob a bit.


I looked up the one you bought, and then saw this one in my search results, so I went for this one. Mine vibrates a little, but doesn't seem to move much otherwise. FWIW, the hardware I used was actually some extra rack/fender hardware I had floating around in my toolbox, so I didn't have to use one of the thumb screws from my GoPro mounts collection.

I am absolutely thrilled with the location of the light, though. It's off the handlebars, for one. It's in a better position to light the road ahead without getting shadows of my shift housings. It cleans up the appearance of the bike by a TON. Plus, now the light isn't exactly quick for a potential thief to swipe.

I've got a pork shoulder on the smoker right now, but once that finishes up, I'm planning to take the bike for a quick spin around the neighborhood to see how the new tires affect the way the bike rides.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Harold said:


> Just saw this. I'm LOVING the cowchipper bar. I haven't done any terribly long rides on it yet. I've got a lot of 2-4mi commute rides right now. I'm doing 85mi on Monday, though, and I'll have a better review of it then.


Thanks harold! I think I am in the market for a cowchipper now too. Only thing holding me back is the price of 85Euros and shipping time of at least 4 weeks here in europe....


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

cyclingdutchman said:


> Thanks harold! I think I am in the market for a cowchipper now too. Only thing holding me back is the price of 85Euros and shipping time of at least 4 weeks here in europe....


Just put 86mi on it today. Big fan.


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## Buster Bluth (Sep 11, 2008)

After breaking my chain and getting TWO flats on my 18 mile commute I threw my bike into the Columbia River and walked.


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

Finally got around to some wrench time. I still have lots to get done but the list is getting smaller.

Mountain bike: After some very muddy races recently I put on a fresh chain, cassette, and fresh inner and outer cables, and then promptly put it all through the ringer. Everything worked flawlessly for the Mohican 100K race on Saturday.

Road bike: I had to suffer the consequences for deferring maintenance. I knew the chain was super stretched but when I measured it at the Coop, it didn't even register on the chain measure tool. So it got a new chain and cassete and a thorough cleaning of the jockey wheels and chainrings. Also managed a flat on the Gatorskins on the front wheel from my commute on Thursday so I changed the tube there. Didn't find anything in the tire so I'm not sure what happened.

SS Karate Monkey: Finally got all my pieces and parts for the drop bar SS karate monkey. I am running a cowchipper bar as well. The frame is a bit big for the drop bar set up for me (hence the tiny stem and huge spacer stack), but the bike was practically free so I don't really care. I need to lower the gearing a bit for singletrack, but it's great for ripping around town right now.


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## gregnash (Jul 17, 2010)

Finally into full commuter mode retirement. She has been run in the previous MTB mode for quite a while since I had a friend borrowing on a regular basis. Kept watching ebay and missing out on good deals on steel forks but finally landed one last week. Got here and swapped everything over including moving to ALT bars as well (debating on dropbars or not still).

Thinking the final update will be a set of Schwalbe Big Apples. I have a set of new GEAX Evolution 1.9" tires but damn are they an absolute $#%@^ to get on the OG Stans Flow rims (let alone get off the rims). From there will drop the front to a 1x9 setup and call it good.

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

New rubber.


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## jetta_mike (Feb 26, 2007)

New front rack and bar ends.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

^ at first glance, it looks like the shifter cables are yellow and wrap around the rack. :lol:


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Harold said:


> I looked up the one you bought, and then saw this one in my search results, so I went for this one. Mine vibrates a little, but doesn't seem to move much otherwise. FWIW, the hardware I used was actually some extra rack/fender hardware I had floating around in my toolbox, so I didn't have to use one of the thumb screws from my GoPro mounts collection.
> 
> I am absolutely thrilled with the location of the light, though. It's off the handlebars, for one. It's in a better position to light the road ahead without getting shadows of my shift housings. It cleans up the appearance of the bike by a TON. Plus, now the light isn't exactly quick for a potential thief to swipe.
> 
> I've got a pork shoulder on the smoker right now, but once that finishes up, I'm planning to take the bike for a quick spin around the neighborhood to see how the new tires affect the way the bike rides.


Shapeway has a 20% discount code going on now "SFONSALE" so I got two of the style you purchased to try out. LNM just released a GoPro mount for their Seca Lights.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

Technically yesterday but:

built 2 wheels.
put tubes and tires on, and discs.
mounted bb/headset/fork/brakes/saddle/seatpost/handlebar/stem/cranks/pedals. 
And machined some spacers for the cassette and headset.
Also lubed everything, i mean everything.

Also tried fitting the shifter on the bar and filed spacers for the special mount.

Things left to do today:
Go over the wheels in the stand.
finalize the shifter position
mount correct spacers on steerer
install rd
install brake levers
make a 6sp cassete and install it
route all wires and cables
maybe lube the pedals
size chain and install

done


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## Kleebs (Mar 18, 2014)

Finally got around to building up the commuter after the fresh powder coat. Treated her to a fresh bottom bracket, cables, and cantis. I think my trash bin drop levers are going to have to be replaced sooner than later. The right one has developed a lot of play and the spring is toast. Just need to reinstall fenders and rack and she is finished. I'll post a pic tomorrow.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

My commuter bike is a Dahon Vigor P9. It developed an annoying creak under power. Since it's a folding bike, I assumed it was the joint in the frame. I adjusted and greased it a few times but the creak persisted. Finally, today, I thought to check the tension on the spokes. The non drive side rears were a little loose. I tensioned em up and took it for a nice, quiet spin around the neighborhood.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

I replaced the right shift cable and I now shift from 5th to 10th in one click. Not good. when you want one ratio up and have to downshift to it. 

Delving into the mysteries of Campagnolo shifters started in 2013 when the body I cracked in the accident gave up suddenly months later. The lesser level models are not true Ergo like the Chorus and Record of that era were. Not rebuildable. The replacement would frequently skip two or three cogs on the upshift and I thought it was me holding the lever too long. With the cable replaced and a small kink taken out where the cable entered the shifter (spot where cable frayed) it now drops 5 cogs at once. That as you might guess, is a known failure mode of the non-rebuidable shifters and was likely bad from the get-go. 

So I am disinclined to buy another. Also, many dealers are sold out suggesting that this is not nearly the 10,000 mile to rebuild that the Ergos are known to be. The first rebuild is about $3.00 of springs. So I elected to upgrade the body to Ergo. That has the tiny problem that Campy does not put part numbers on anything! So I had to send pictures of my current unit. The hood and lever and clamp will transfer. The cost is a small fraction of a complete L& R and cables set. It should be here tomorrow.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

I'm running mtb shifters on my dropbar bikes. need to make specials mounts though. But i like to be able to get the best feel and whatever brakelevers I like. xtr got 15000km on it now. 

I also fill them up with grease from the start.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

The right shifter is fixed. My son bought me a new bike helmet. It is a bell with MIPS and the traffic yellow-green for more visibility.

I transferred the headlight, taillight, and camera mount:


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## GPcruiser (Apr 6, 2015)

Added a handlebar bag and a rack for my panniers


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

Chainstay cracked and the weld of the tubing to the forged yoke...

Suspension bolts started to lossen off Monday....by Sunday the crack appeared.

I was going up a mountain ride...and it was squeaking really bad. At the top I got off and spotted the crack.

Real slow and easy downhill with a lot of squeaking.

I had just pulled out an old chain stay with worn dropouts and repaired it with weld bond.

So an hour later I am good to go.


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## biker_soldier101 (Mar 15, 2014)

Cateye Stealth 10. Its been on the bike for a little while now and its been great. Simple. Very basic but that's all I needed. Battery life is good. Don't know how long it really lasts though as I haven't kept track.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Just got some Planet Bike Cascadia ALX (aluminum) 29er fenders, will post pics when I can. Also the shop I PT in got new kits and they have galactic kittens on them, I am excited to wear this kit.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

biker_soldier101 said:


> Cateye Stealth 10. Its been on the bike for a little while now and its been great. Simple. Very basic but that's all I needed. Battery life is good. Don't know how long it really lasts though as I haven't kept track.


Have you had any connection issues? I have that same computer that I used to use and it would never connect quickly. One time it took almost 10 minutes of being outside for it to connect. My Garmin connects right as I turn it on and before I walk out the door of my apartment.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

^ My Garmin takes awhile to get satellite info.

Lost a tire to a sharp piece of gravel that even cut a line inside the wheel flange.

SOMA had a two-day 20% off sale and were clearing out the gumwall/ brown 700-28 so I got a pair shipped for under $30.

Here they are mounted. Look good with the Brown Brooks Saddle and bar tape:


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Apparently I got a bit lazy. Thought I had greased my stem bolts on my SS Carve MTB turned urban commuter assault machine. Went to tighten one of them down, and it made the loudest popping noise I have ever heard emitted by the stem area of a bike. It then spun freely. Managed to get it out and I see what happened. I pulled the threads right out of stem onto the bolt. Time to shop for a new stem I guess. 

Bike is a 19" SS MTB that can accept a rear derailleur but is being run SS currently with a 36:13 and an EBB along with 700x35 Continental City Ride II's. Stem/bar combo that came on the bike was a 70mm stem and a 6 mile wide bar because that is what the kids are all using these days. Immediately ditched the cow catcher bar and opted for a Cinelli Pepper riser bar with the stem on a -6° rise. Next smallest stem I have is a 90mm +/-6 rise. Wondering how much of a difference I will be able to feel in that longer stem?


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

TenSpeed said:


> Apparently I got a bit lazy. Thought I had greased my stem bolts on my SS Carve MTB turned urban commuter assault machine. Went to tighten one of them down, and it made the loudest popping noise I have ever heard emitted by the stem area of a bike. It then spun freely. Managed to get it out and I see what happened. I pulled the threads right out of stem onto the bolt. Time to shop for a new stem I guess.
> 
> Bike is a 19" SS MTB that can accept a rear derailleur but is being run SS currently with a 36:13 and an EBB along with 700x35 Continental City Ride II's. Stem/bar combo that came on the bike was a 70mm stem and a 6 mile wide bar because that is what the kids are all using these days. Immediately ditched the cow catcher bar and opted for a Cinelli Pepper riser bar with the stem on a -6° rise. Next smallest stem I have is a 90mm +/-6 rise. Wondering how much of a difference I will be able to feel in that longer stem?


I had this happen on a Thomson once, my solution was to tap a larger bolt to the stem. So the bottom bolt is a M5 and the top bolt is a M6 that is slightly machined down on the inside to more of a cone shape.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

I've actually stopped greasing stem bolts, after having this happen a few times. It's been at least 3 times now: kona, cannondale, ritchey, and maybe even a 4th no name brand.

Some folks talk about grease as a "torque multiplier", in that it lets you apply more torque than you could without it. And from my experience, for m5 stem bolts that is a bad idea. For the 3 that have failed I've been in the process of tightening them, and not even reefing down on them or anything.

No torque wrench of course (I think 2 of these were just making an adjustment out on the trails) but it's annoying enough that I've stopped using grease.

I know most stems come with some kindof goop on them, but all of mine that have failed had been re-gooped by me with Phil's.


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## biker_soldier101 (Mar 15, 2014)

TenSpeed said:


> Have you had any connection issues? I have that same computer that I used to use and it would never connect quickly. One time it took almost 10 minutes of being outside for it to connect. My Garmin connects right as I turn it on and before I walk out the door of my apartment.


Yes it does take a few minutes. Never timed it but I'd say no more than 2-3 minutes. Sometimes its quicker.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Ditched the factory stem and put on my red Ritchey WCS Axis 4 on that SS MTB and it fits perfectly. I did grease the stem bolts this time.


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## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

Fixed a backlog of 5 flats last night. I was starting to run out of extra wheels


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

air'd up the tires


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

newfangled said:


> I've actually stopped greasing stem bolts, after having this happen a few times. It's been at least 3 times now: kona, cannondale, ritchey, and maybe even a 4th no name brand.
> 
> Some folks talk about grease as a "torque multiplier", in that it lets you apply more torque than you could without it. And from my experience, for m5 stem bolts that is a bad idea. For the 3 that have failed I've been in the process of tightening them, and not even reefing down on them or anything.
> 
> ...


Imo it works like this: The torqe you get at the key only corresponds to a certain squish if lubed correctly. I use molykote longterm plus 2 on everything.

if you assemble lets say a common bolt maybe galvanized, it doesnt slide very well in the threads, the bottom side of the head is also not very smooth sliding. This can account for up to 90% of the torque you thought you had torqued that bolt to. so you think 10nm but in reality you have like 1-3 or so dry.

of course this info can be found in very many places.

I also like that the bolt are never stuck. alu and steel dont really like each orher and can get stuck "forever".


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

Today and yesterday I modded my bike a bit. new fork and turned some new spacers for the steerer, I also put the bike on a flat table to check rear dropout alignment. Had to turn some pieces to get the centerline of the main triangle level. Turns out the nds was actually a bit off (up/down) so i filed it about 1mm, the outer side of the dropout was 1mm further to the ground when riding, but now its inline with the other side. the actual dropout had probably bent a bit while they welded it.

The reason i wanted top check it was that my new rear wheel which i built to perfection did not line up at the center of the seatstay, and there is awelded nut there where my fenders mount so it was extremely obvious. And if its off there, its off on the ground too. But it turned out that its something else that is crooked. Dont know what. dont really care either. Its probably completely normal for a lynskey. However the wheels track straight and line up and thats what matters to me.

I also removed the headset cups and turned them down about 0,25mm and shortened them since the humble folks at lynskey cant get the correct diameter on the frames.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Finalized the order for the drivetrain on the fixed gear. It is shot to hell and back. Is it shark week? You would think so by looking at the teeth on my chain ring. New FSA ring ordered in a 48T instead of the 49T that I have because I can't get a 49 through Q. KMC chain and SRAM chain ring bolts as well as a Surly 15T stainless steel cog. Will be here Friday and am hoping to get it installed on the bike but that might be hard to do since I will be working until close at the bike shop.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Harold said:


> Got my Vaya's new shoes installed. Dropped about 2lbs of rotating weight (and it's still got tubes!) just by swapping tires. These are a touch narrower, but should make a HUGE difference for the long rides I've got coming within the next week. Tallying things up in my head, I think I'm going to hit 200mi on my Vaya within the next 7 days all told.
> 
> 
> DSCF2679 by Nate, on Flickr
> ...





Mr Pink57 said:


> A 3D printed fork crown GoPro mount from shapeway and a LNM Urban GoPro mount, wonder what's going to happen next?


The 3D printed fork crown mount I bought fell apart last week. It cracked straight down from the bolt hole and was done. I can't find anything else that would work as a direct replacement, so it's back to a handlebar mount for me.

Guess my commute is too bumpy? I dunno. A machined aluminum version of this would probably work and hold up, but I don't see anyone making one. I might drop a line to vancbiker to see if he'll make one to complement his GoPro adapter for the Chinese lights.

I have also priced out what it'd cost me to go to a dynamo hub setup. Definitely my long-term plan, but don't think I can swing it just yet.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

I don't know if this mount will do:

HD Caliper Brake B&M470H1 Listed on Peter White's site under Mounting Dynamo Lights.

I have been using it with twin aimable DIY head lamps:





Ignore the handlebar mounted light:

Aimed out for daytime to be more visible to cross street drivers:



At $2.75 the shipping costs more than the part.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

The front brake pads on that Mercian are installed backwards. The open end should be located at the rear of the holder.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> The front brake pads on that Mercian are installed backwards. The open end should be located at the rear of the holder.


Thanks. They were freshly and too quickly installed and fixed after the picture. Almost five years ago.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I don't think that mount will work. I can't find anything aside from the 3D printed mounts that will use GoPro mounting. So for now, my light has the stock handlebar mount installed again and the light is up on the bars.

I think I'm going to try this one out, but it's still plastic so I'm not 100% convinced:
https://www.bikeshophub.com/accesso...n-speed-and-other-bike-headlights-p-2378.html


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Harold said:


> I don't think that mount will work.


Not as is, no. The bolt holes allow you to attach the mount you need. A piece of PVC pipe with a lug (inside bracket flanges) or two (outside bracket flanges) epoxied on with a bolt hole(s) * nuts, bolts, spacers and lock washers as needed.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

BrianMc said:


> Not as is, no. The bolt holes allow you to attach the mount you need. A piece of PVC pipe with a lug (inside bracket flanges) or two (outside bracket flanges) epoxied on with a bolt hole(s) * nuts, bolts, spacers and lock washers as needed.


Yeah, I don't want to cobble stuff together. Vancbiker is willing to machine what I need from aluminum and is working out pricing for me. Cool dude.


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## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)

started turning this into a commuter bike


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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

Some of you guys are doing some cool stuff! Me, I'm limited to installing fenders. I always cut the rear down as I don't need more in my area.







Ends up looking like this.


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## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)

did a bunch of work getting it together today.....

bike: 86 schwinn sierra-free
pedals-$14
grips-$8
seat-$15
bell-$16
handlebars-$12
tires-$22
rack-$3
crate-free
lights-$40
reflectors-$4.50
chain-$10
bags-$30
fenders-free, made with stuff I had laying around
water bottle cages- free from personal parts bin

still need to finish installing the taillights and install some little round reflectors.....running knobbies for them dirt and mud shortcuts...lol


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## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)

Got my commuter bike almost done.....added some reflectors and reflective strips put on....also turned a leather bag into a pannier using a few carbineers


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## Texico (Feb 23, 2009)

I managed to put a significant dent into the rim of my commuter bike a couple weeks ago. At least that's the only time I can remember an event that would have been able to cause the dent. I found it a couple days ago while cleaning the bike after a recent rainy/muddy ride.

So yesterday I ordered a new wheel. A Sun Rhynolite laced to a Deore 525 hub. Nothing special, nothing expensive, but less expensive and time consuming than buying a rim and lacing it to my existing hub. It should be here on Friday or Saturday. Until then I've trued my wheel laterally and bent the beadseat/sidewall back in to place, but I can't get rid of the ~5mm hop in the rim.

My next purchases will hopefully be new shoes and a new backpack/pannier as both will probably need to be replaced in the next six months or so.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I keep bar swapping between tri base bars and drops on my fixed gear. The drops are awesome and are just about perfect but I have noticed that I am getting some wrist pain while riding so they came off this am and the base bars went back on. I think that if I had hoods on there it would be exactly what I am wanting, however, I am far too vain to run hoods on drops on a fixed gear with only a front brake and that dummy lever. So back to the base bars it is.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Finally getting around to getting the fenders back on the CX bike for winter/wet commuter duty. Forecast here calls for a warm up and that means wet roads for sure. I despise fenders with every inch of my body and soul but they help. Earlier this year they came off as soon as possible and they probably will again as soon as spring hits here. Fenders, you are a pain in my rear end, even if you have been mounted and adjusted once already on the bike. Front is done, took a break after doing that and redoing the cable position on the bars and rewrapping. Going to move to the back of the bike here shortly.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

I have commuted twelve years in a row...(big deal)

Anyway the first 11 years I never had a RD jockey pulley bolt come loose...

This year I had a JP bolt come loose and total wrap up a Shimano XTR RD.

Yesterday the replacement SRAM 10 speed RD jP bolt comes loose in the driveway...no damage but WTF.

Am I pedalling crookedly or what???


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

Frozen bearing? If it is the lower pulley and the bearing froze it would be applying a torque in the direction to unscrew it.


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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

I always take jockey pulleys off once a year for a clean and lube. I've always used a touch of blue Loctite on the bottom pulley bolt as taught by my father. I never really thought of why. Bed, you made a light come on! My brains getting old. That hurts! :lol:


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

bedwards1000 said:


> Frozen bearing? If it is the lower pulley and the bearing froze it would be applying a torque in the direction to unscrew it.


Nope bearing in good shape...


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

I meant frozen with water contamination.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

bedwards1000 said:


> I meant frozen with water contamination.


Oh okay nope been dry and warm for the last three commutes and bearing was full of phil's tenacious oil...no salt no water.

Oh and it was the top bearing...

I am beginning to think the b screw might just be too close and the RD is vibrating too much when the chain goes over the teeth ????

anyway I locktited it.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

jeffscott said:


> Oh and it was the top bearing...


That blows the whole theory. Re-filing it under the chit happens category.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Vancbiker finished up the aluminum fork crown mount I asked for as a custom job.

Here's my updated light mount setup.


DSCF2712 by Nate, on Flickr

I'm totally pleased with how this turned out. Nice and stout. Everything snugs up really nice, and shouldn't move or vibrate much on rough surfaces. I like that he threaded the bolt hole on the GoPro adapter side of things, so I don't need to use a nut there. If I do need to snug it up or otherwise adjust it while out on a ride, my multi-tool will be able to handle it no problem.


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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

What I'm doing to my commuter, well, it's at the powder coat shop. I have a thread going in vintage. I am making some minor upgrades here and there. Also making sure it's ready to go another 25 years.


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## Texico (Feb 23, 2009)

*Raleigh Tamland*

So I've been using this bike for close to two years now, and I decided to make it a little more commuting/touring friendly.

I swapped out the FSA Gossamer 50/34 crank with a Deore crank at a custom 42/26 to make a sub-compact touring double. New BB-M800 to go along with the crankset. Replaced the stock 12-30 cassette with an 11-32, so I now have a range of 103.1-21.9 gear inches. Also switched to the "long cage" 105 rear derailleur. Lastly, I added the SKS Chainboard which was an interesting thing to fiddle with on the installation but it came out great.

I'm very happy with how everything came out, but I only have one ride on it so far after the changes.

[URL="


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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

I'm considering a chainboard myself. Unsure of the bb mount.


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## Texico (Feb 23, 2009)

@OlMarin if you have any questions about it I will do my best to answer. My bike is a 68mm BB shell so I needed to use the provided spacers for the Deore crankset. The BB mount for the Chainboard (~1mm thick) just replaced one of the 2.5mm spacers, and I used a ~1mm spacer with it to make up for the difference.

If you use a square taper or octalink BB/crankset then the installation would be even easier without the need for extra spacers.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Put some "fenders" on my yougest son's stryderbike from my own home made brand "recyclo-crappo-bottlo" :cornut: .

Since picasa was killed and replaces with google photos I can not insert pics directly in the post anymore, therefore just the links´(of which I hope that those at least work....):

complete bike:
https://goo.gl/photos/B4PkGrpxofZ7xPEP6

front:
https://goo.gl/photos/CS1vMTt71w6XwKRP7

rear:
https://goo.gl/photos/TvSuvLAxyAWqBDZc6

McGyver would be proud I guess :arf: :smilewinkgrin:


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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

Texico said:


> @OlMarin if you have any questions about it I will do my best to answer. My bike is a 68mm BB shell so I needed to use the provided spacers for the Deore crankset. The BB mount for the Chainboard (~1mm thick) just replaced one of the 2.5mm spacers, and I used a ~1mm spacer with it to make up for the difference.
> 
> If you use a square taper or octalink BB/crankset then the installation would be even easier without the need for extra spacers.


Thanks for the info. I'm interested to see how it performs for you. I'm thinking about this and some of them fancy, schmancy platform pedals that also allow use of spuds. 
I also use the bike for daily mail run. It's only a 1/4 mile away, but just that little bit motivates me to go for a real ride. As a retired commuter, I sometimes need incentive.
This would mean I can leave the blue jeans and boots on. 
And also, it seems for guys running in sloppy conditions it could make chain maintenance a bit easier. Wouldn't it keep it cleaner longer? Having done that, cleaning a filthy chain gets old.
BTW I'm running a '90's Deore Lx with a 68. Standard square taper.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Worked on my 2nd bike today, the Dahon Cadenza folding bike. It has an excentric BB which was totally mucked up. Took the cranks off and had to hammer the BB out to the side (held a piece of wood against the axle to avoid damage). Cleaned everything with WD40, greased all parts and put it back together. Will probably get new screws this week that clamp the BB housing together. 
I am still not sure if I am going to keep the bike. If yes, I will use it for touring and will need a front wheel with a dynohub to charge phone/GPS/Camera, and I will have to get racks for front an rear. Fork doesnt have lowrider eyelets so will have to go for a Tubus Smarti, which can be installed on the Cantimounts.

My other bike has annoying squeaking too and I am also suspecting the BB / Crankset. Its a Shimano HTII bearings with an FSA singlespeed crankset. Took the left crank off already, cleaned&greased it, and put it back on. I noticed that on the axle, 1 tooth of the toothwork was rounded a bit. Also a metal chip came out. Dont know how to take the axle out of the bearings though. The squeaking was still there afterwards so I will probably take it to the bikeshop to have them overhaul the bearings and BB threading. If that doesnt help its not the crankset but at least it is serviced again ;o))


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Decided that my bikes will decidedly used with their intended purpose for the most part.

Fixed gear will be fun/nice weather commuter.
SS mtb will go back to knobbies and original gear ratio.
CX bike will be dedicated commuter and fenders will remain on - will be putting a road cassette on.
Fattie will remain fat - snow, dirt, whatever.
CF endurance bike got a new bar/stem/wrap and was dropped off at the shop Saturday for new cables/housing. New bar is narrower and the stem is shorter so there is a mess of cables up front that looks just horrible. It has internal cables so I decided to let the manager at the shop do it instead of me.

All of this time off the bike is bad for me. This is usually the part where I lose my mind and start micro adjusting things.


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## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)

think I finally got my light setup done on my rockhopper commuter


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

TenSpeed said:


> Decided that my bikes will decidedly used with their intended purpose for the most part.
> 
> Fixed gear will be fun/nice weather commuter.
> SS mtb will go back to knobbies and original gear ratio.
> ...


Alton Brown would disapprove of your collection of unitaskers. Lol. Quite a stable though.


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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

That orange and yellow monster posted above? I've, um, done a little to it.


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## digitalayon (Jul 31, 2007)

Well it wasn't my bike but I took my wife's bike she bought from Costco a few years ago. I removed the tourney components and cheap crankset and added a nice icon crankset along with an all Acera group pulled from a cracked frame Giant. This Schwinn is a nice full suspension street cruiser but it's a really nice bike for her to have. Even the wheels were an upgrade. She tried it out.....said I am definitely getting a reward later.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

cyclingdutchman said:


> My other bike has annoying squeaking too and I am also suspecting the BB / Crankset
> <<CUT>>
> so I will probably take it to the bikeshop to have them overhaul the bearings and BB threading. If that doesnt help its not the crankset but at least it is serviced again ;o))


Bike was in the LBS last Friday and I had new bearings installed. Unfortunately the squeaking was still there 

Friday afternoon I removed the rear wheel and the slider dropouts. I had never removed those dropouts before, just loosened/tightened to tension the chain.

It appeared that there were some lock washers under the bolts, that were totally wasted. They were of this kind:
https://goo.gl/images/dl2dzf

So I put in normal washers with a smooth surface - SILENCE :arf

A bit annoying that I now have a pair of HT2 bearings laying around. If anyone in Europe or even Germany is interested: 5€ + shipping (internet price 13€ without shipping).

But all in all I am still glad that that squeaking is gone. Drove me nuts the last week, plus the feeling that something might break and ruin even more.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Swapped out the Nuvinci 360 for a 3x10 system which seems strange to some I am sure but I wanted a lot more range so I went to about a 600% from 360% and a much better low end. I also added my salsa minimalist rack with a Wald 1372 basket up front.

So far so good. Also to add to switching from a N360 is parts are pretty much at the ready versus me having to order everything.

I also ordered a set of Velocity Cliffhangers for my Ogre which should arrive this week and I am swapped from an enabler fork to a Ogre fork to add a dynamo hub.


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## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)

finally got the 7 speed conversion working flawlessly after a new front chain ring....little bit of fine tuning and its ready to go


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

^ doesn't that crate hit your back while you are riding? Also wouldn't it make getting on and off the bike a bit more difficult?


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## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)

the crate doesnt really effect my back much....I may modify it some....it does make it somewhat hard to throw the leg over.... you have to lean the bike over to mount it


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Hey! Long time no talk! Got my bike down off the ceiling of the garage yesterday, and cleaned it up, lubed it, and replaced a bad tube and got pumped up and ready to go. My multi-use path is a ways off yet, still covered in snow. But I may consider using the roads, depending on weather, in the next few weeks. I gots the itch!


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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

Why did I have to stumble upon this? Why, why, why? :madman:
See post #1584..........


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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

Selle Anatomica. Can't say what I think as I only have 1hr 40min on it. But it's different. So far not in a bad way.


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## bmf032 (Sep 8, 2010)

I've been tempted to put one of these on my road bike. I'd love to hear what you think once it's broken in.


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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

bmf032 said:


> I've been tempted to put one of these on my road bike. I'd love to hear what you think once it's broken in.


The ad hype says break in is minimal, if at all. I can't really be sure, but they may be correct. So far I've only [email protected] with normal adjustments pertaining to any saddle. I haven't touched the tension adjustment. I'll wait on that for a few more rides, if then.
It seems hard at first but that quickly goes away and it feels pretty good (DON'T GO THERE!!)


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## reod12x2 (Nov 6, 2015)

in the process of pricing out a single speed conversion for my 2013 kona splice 29er after a hard winter season on my 3x8 drive train. pretty much everything is worn out on the 3x8 only thing good is the rear mech and shift line everything else is shot, so its going to be cheaper in the long run to convert over. plus I picked up a new job so I'm going to be laying down about 160-200km a month.

as well I tried the bike in the gear range I want to get, 32-24t, and am thinking it's going to work out good just got to red line before the hills start lol.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Took off the conti wintercontacts and again I am amazed how well they look after the 4th winter. I didnt keep track but I think they have around 10tkm on them now and I think they could easily double that.

Put the conti speedrides back on that go into the 2nd summerseason now. Especially the one that was on the rear already shows clear signs of wear. I could also easily make out the 3 spots with which I made the 3 emergency stops last year.

I estimate they'll last 3 summers. They were relatively cheap, roll well and have good grip so with an estimated life of 7tkm I think it is a very good package as a whole.

All conti.tires I.had so far were very good. So far I always bought the wirebead types and all three models are a real pita to get properly.seated on the rim. By now I have soap spender at hand and dont even try without it, its even needed for the used ones so they dont even bed in after a few months. Will try the folding ones next time.

And I finally found out what that that antiflat thing is called that I always use: its a tire liner. In the usa I.found one that is called mr. tuffy.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

reod12x2 said:


> in the process of pricing out a single speed conversion for my 2013 kona splice 29er after a hard winter season on my 3x8 drive train. pretty much everything is worn out on the 3x8 only thing good is the rear mech and shift line everything else is shot, so its going to be cheaper in the long run to convert over. plus I picked up a new job so I'm going to be laying down about 160-200km a month.
> 
> as well I tried the bike in the gear range I want to get, 32-24t, and am thinking it's going to work out good just got to red line before the hills start lol.


So you want to go 32 tooth up front and 24 in the back? And this is to commute on? That is going to be absolutely horrible unless you live in the mountains. You are going to spin out so quickly on the pavement. My 29er SS that I converted to road is a 34:13 I believe or 14, and that is about ideal. It was initially geared for off road but that gearing was severely limiting my pavement speed.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Not to my commuter but we got this one free for the GF so I took it down to frame and regreased everything, replaced a lot of bearings also. Put a basket on per request, replaced the broken rear fender reflector with a pdw fenderbot.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

I haven't commuted in 2 years. I got hit on my way home from work, and it effed me up. The physical damage healed pretty fast (although my back and shoulder still hurt), but I let the emotional stuff get to me. I couldn't ride on the road without hitting a ditch every time a car came by. A few weeks ago, I decided enough was enough. I picked up a Trek 4300 on Craigslist, and had the time of my life. I only got out a few miles, but those few miles were blissful. So, I quickly snagged a used brand new Jamis Renegade Expat. Tonight, I slapped my old lights on, installed a Brooks Cambium C17, and some SPD pedals. 

It'll be a few weeks before I have the stamina to make the 37 mile commute to work. But I'll be there soon enough, three times a week.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> I haven't commuted in 2 years. I got hit on my way home from work, and it effed me up. The physical damage healed pretty fast (although my back and shoulder still hurt), but I let the emotional stuff get to me. I couldn't ride on the road without hitting a ditch every time a car came by. A few weeks ago, I decided enough was enough. I picked up a Trek 4300 on Craigslist, and had the time of my life. I only got out a few miles, but those few miles were blissful. So, I quickly snagged a used brand new Jamis Renegade Expat. Tonight, I slapped my old lights on, installed a Brooks Cambium C17, and some SPD pedals.
> 
> It'll be a few weeks before I have the stamina to make the 37 mile commute to work. But I'll be there soon enough, three times a week.


Wow, I think a lot of us were wondering what happened and if something like this might have happened. I'm glad to hear you're on the mend in some meaningful ways. Take care out there, man.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Lots of stuff today.

Commuter 1, the converted MTB (26to700c),

Replaced quill stem with quill stem to threadless converter, Nitto. Added Bontrager stem with rise, purchased from the Boise Bike Project.

Then, changed out kinda english 3 speed type bars for a pair of Jones bars I got off guy here in town who swapped his out for Jones mustache style. Pre-wrapped and came with silicon grips. I wanted some more aero options for windy days. Need to adjust height. I think I can raise the adapter in the headtube a bit, as I squished it in there pretty far. Then will see if I want more rise on the stem. I think I like the reach. Bar ends clear my knees in smaller maneuvers, stretching out on the alternate hand positions feels good, other than may want to be a bit higher.










Commuter 2: "New" vintage Davidson Touring Bike, (and commuter)

Swapped out ladies' Avocet Touring saddle for my favorite WTB Rocket V, in black leatherette, with pretty subtle logos. A saddle I have used on my mountain bike and which I thought would look ok on the old bike, without a lot of flashy lettering.

Pulled old 5 speed Suntour freewheel and installed 6 Speed suntour freewheel, also purchased from the Boise Bike project. Gotta love $5 freewheels and stems. Cleaned it up a little (will probably take a little more cleaning, but works fine) and dropped right in. Adjusted the limit screws (particularly the outside limit) and works just fine! The small sprocket is still a 14 as originally, but the largest one is now 32 instead of 34, with an additional gear in the range. I like the gear spacing better.

Still need to clean up the cable and housing and replace the chain, and generally clean and re-lube/grease everything. Will be working on new stem and bar next on this one. And replacing the old tires that are dried out.



















Pics taken while bike hung back up, and pics then flipped over for ease of viewing.


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## sunvalleylaw (Jun 21, 2010)

Swapped out tires for Clement Strada LGG 32s. Had to ditch the current fenders. Will get SKS 45 Longboards when it is time.

Also, my new handlebar arrived. I stripped the old foam grips off, and started the swap process last night. I didn't order my brake levers soon enough, so will have to use the old ones while I try out the new bar, to see what length stem I want. Kinda thinking a 100mm will do it, but wanted to try out the wider bars first to see. Got some pink bar tape for a buck (may go get some more, it is good Specialized tape) to use while experimenting. I am not afraid to rock the Pink!


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

I added a dynamo setup finally.

Shimano DH-3D32
BM IQ-X
BM Secula Plus Fender Mounted


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## rockhopper97 (Jul 30, 2014)

put a milk crate on my summer commuter and started the rebuild on my winter commuter.... ordered a rigid fork and headset spacers from amazon... picked up my paint and supplies.... milk crates came from my work


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## Skaughtto (Jun 7, 2017)

Bought some new wheels yesterday, for no good reason...









26" Cane Creek Aeroheat SG wheels. Reviews made them sound durable and commuting seems like what they were meant for. I'm trying to find out if they are any different than Velocity Aeroheat rims. Most likely they are the same.

Would 26x2 tires be way too big for these? I'm thinking about buying some 26x1.5 tires and tubes if they fit better.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Mounted 2 new Conti Speedrides 42-622 after 1 suffered a partly separated layer just above the wire bead.

Conti asked me to send it in and they would most probably warranty it, but I didnt want to wait so long and the new tires were 11€ each. So sending in a tire for 5€, getting a brand new one that I might be able to sell for 7€ just is not worth the effort.

Instead I went for an experiment: I took a saw and tried to cut the thing. Although I had a saw for iron/metals, I failed to cut the wirebead.

But the inside look was interesting. They have the socalled "ProTection" Technology installed. Look what the pic here is suggesting: 
https://www.continental-reifen.de/fahrrad/technologie/city-trekking/puncture-protection

And in the album you can can see what I found, plus the damage I had, plus the difference between old/new (where "old" is about 3500kilometers in 15 months)
Link: https://goo.gl/photos/pqCFxcm35xu1Ysk69


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## 36Miles (Nov 6, 2016)

I added a Topeak Explorer rack, cursing how many times I had to bend, check, and bend some more to get those seat stay struts to line up. Next, I installed a $10 piece of plastic on the back so I could mount my NiteRider Solas to that rack. Then I put on my brand spanking new Ortlieb Sport Roller Classics. Then I spent a bunch of time figuring out how to give myself enough heel clearance. I anticipate fiddling with that some more.

Tomorrow, I am putting on a new Specialized Ground Control "Control" 2.3 on the front. My bike came with 2.1 Ground Control Sports. Still keeping them for the rear. Next up, Mucky Nutz face fender. Then I'll be done for a while.

Eager to see how my commute goes with the panniers.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Converted my son's 20" mtb into an all purpose bike. Put on clip-on fenders, a racktime rear rack and 55mm schwalbe big apple tires. Looks good, rides good and he likes it good


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## Buster Bluth (Sep 11, 2008)

cyclingdutchman said:


> Converted my son's 20" mtb into an all purpose bike. Put on clip-on fenders, a racktime rear rack and 55mm schwalbe big apple tires. Looks good, rides good and he likes it good


I converted my little one's tricycle into a penny-farthing. She hated it and threw it into a river.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

That I can imagine buster 

That Penny sure is a Far Thing: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penny-farthing


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## lesoudeur (Nov 3, 2005)

*New rotors*

Finished my commuting to work bike with a pair of Shimano SMRT99S rotors. Totally over the top but they do work well...and look the part.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

1. Fat bike has frozen brakes right now - soon to be fixed
2. SS mtb converted back to SS from fixed, normal riser bar put back on, brakes put back on
3. Road bike is good to go - new folding bead Continental Gatorskins to go on as the stock tires are getting worn down
4. Cross bike got a full cleaning. Need to adjust the rear shifter cable as it is not sitting correctly under the frame
5. Fixed gear got a new crank - carbon crank cracked


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## 36Miles (Nov 6, 2016)

OK, I lied back in August, but not intentionally. While having my front and rear hubs maintained, I asked the LBS to mount a new chain... apparently a no-go because it was skipping and I had ridden the bike so much that I had worn out my 7 month old drive train. LBS advised me to just ride it into the ground, but I am rather risk averse and the thought of a chain at 75-100% wear snapping in the middle of nowhere in the darkness in 30-40 degree temperatures didn't appeal to me, so...

I upgraded the drive train. I figure it cost me an extra $75 (shifter and rear derailleur) since I already needed a cassette, chain, and new chainring. Upgraded to 1x10 with 34T up front and 11-36 on the back, which is perfect for my commute and fitness rides. Very happy moving from Altus to Zee shifter, and non-clutch to clutch RD.

Of course, the moment I upgraded my bike started creaking like mad. Was it the drivetrain? Nope. It was the seatpost. Grrrr...


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

On the main bike:
Cleaned the entire bike
Put the conti wintercontacts back on
Cleaned and greased the slide dropouts
Cleaned, lubed and tensioned the chain
F'ed up the brakepads with wd40, new ones ordered already
Front dynamohub got more play, will need replacement sooner or later

On the spare bike:
put the replacement sd7 vbrakes on that I got after a recall


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Main bike:
-removed bearing play on front dynamo hub (Appeared to be very easy in my case)
-cleaned brake, rotor and rotor joint on the wheel

Bought a new second-hand balance bike for my son this week, a Puky LR Ride. Same size as the previous one but with a rear shock and a V-Brake on the rear wheel. So I had to change the Schwalbe Black Jack studded tires to the new balance bike and put the stock tires back on the old one. The new one was equipped with Schwalbe Big Apple tires, not bad either so those stay in the parts bin.


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## ahFo3 (Nov 5, 2017)

I woke up to a the first blanketing of snow for this season. I decided to install the Kendra Klondikes I found on CL for my daily commute. They worked just fine, but given the not-too-slick conditions, I think any traction tire would've been sufficient. 
A little background: I'm new to the forum, but I thought I'd share. I switched over to my winter weather commuter. It's an '87 Diamond Back Ascent. I'm in the process of converting it to single speed or possibly using an internal 2-speed hub, like the Sram Automatix. Right now I just removed the derailleurs and adjusted the chain length to fit somewhere in the middle. I have a quick 3/4 mile commute, and my goal is to ride every day. Having a snow plan is necessary, so I was excited to find these studded tires. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Main commuter bike:
-New pads finally installed. Ordered them Saturday 2 weeks ago and they arrived last Tuesday. Could not install them before yesterday night...
I screwed up the original pads with oil but after cleaning/sanding the pads with brake cleaner, I managed to get some braking power back. But the new cheapo pads are way better, although not as good as the original organic pads.

Son #2 "commuter" balance bike:
-Managed to fit 20" fenders to the bike. Front one fits without much hassle, looks a bit awkward, but as long as he stays clean its ok for me.
Rear fender had to be cut shorter and made to cuts on the side to allow it to bend onto the seatpost. This also allowed it to go almost horizontally over the rear wheel for best coverage. Everything fitted with cable ties -> best invention ever...
-Renewed the brake cable and adjusted the brake lever. Put it more horizontally and shortened the reach of the lever with the adjuster screw. Now he can grab the lever much easier.

Love that Puky LR Ride balance bike. Seems well made and also well thought of. Brake cable has continuous housing and routing through the main tube to keep everything clean and it prevents tangling up when getting on/off it.

Pre/Post pics:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LkO7BIWLW26KBqYi2

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dlIrAVM8V3QmkXqg2


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

2nd spare commuter/trekking/rigid mtb bike:
Managed to mount a front rack despite lacking lowrider eyelets in the mid of the fork. Used hoseclamps and some improvised rigging. We will see how it works on the trial rides next spring.

Oustanding work: mount the new v brakes when I have found a wheel with a dynamohub in the front for my USB charger, so that I can charge my phone and camera along the way


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## lesoudeur (Nov 3, 2005)

Pair of Mavic Yksion Elite Allroad tyres 30mm. These are tubeless. Used Mavic sealant. No problems fitting and they really have improved the ride. Highly recommended.
FSA Orbit Z Neco headset 15mm CF spacer and CF top cap...this replaced the FSA steel cup caged ball bearing version that had been in the frame for 5 years and came as standard.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

cyclingdutchman said:


> 2nd spare commuter/trekking/rigid mtb bike:
> 
> Oustanding work: mount the new v brakes when I have found a wheel with a dynamohub in the front for my USB charger, so that I can charge my phone and camera along the way


Found a wheel before christmas but when I got the package, it turned out to be a 28" wheel so not useable. Guy apparently didnt know what he was selling.

Luckily I found a wheel here in town 3 days ago and picked it up thursday night. Mounted it today along with the front brake. Put on conti wintercontacts in 50mm but they measure only 45mm, a typical conti issue. After a testride I am pleased with the bike and was pleasantly surprised by the braking power of the new avid sd 7 v brakes that I got for the bike. Curious though how they will perform in the wet though.

Basically the bike is finished to what I had in mind. I planned to use the dynamohub to charge my.phone when I use it for navigationg. But now that I have the dynamohub I am starting to wonder if I put a light on it anyway...lets see if something cheap flies buy.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Main bike: 
Installed a bigger rotor on the rear wheel, 180mm magura storm rotor instead of the 160mm avid g2cs rotoe. Found the magura rotor cheap on ebay here for half the price, 20€ incl mailing. 
Installed new original bb7 organic pads instead of the cheap ones I had before, found the pads for half the price on ebay from somebodys parts bin. Unused and in the sealed original package, 22€ incl shipping instead of 45€ in the cheapest shop.

Wife's bike:
Son managed to put his shoe in the wheel and broke a spokenipple. Had some spare spokes lying around so luckily I could fix it immediately. First time I had to do something with that wheel and I noticed that the bushings in the spoke holes are totally rusted. In addition the spokes are laced such that the valve stem is between 2 spokes that cross above it, so it wasnt easy to put the pump on the valve. Would have expected better from people that build a rohloff wheel. On the longterm a new rim will be needed I guess....


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## paulmich (Jul 6, 2015)

I added new tires to my hardtail MTB. Kenda Komforts 27.5 X 2. Looking forward to more riding on pavement this year. I am in Michigan and its mid winter here. I should be out at the end of March/early April.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

I swapped the On One Midge for a 46cm Ritchey Venturemax Comp last weekend. Tweaked the position of the levers a bit last night and after today's commute I think I have it. I am glad it worked out, I had to get a new stem and top mounted brakelevers too because I had a 25,4 Midge and the Venturemax has a 31,8mm clamp area, so the investment was ~100€ in total for the stem, bar, levers and cork bartape.

More info is in the Venturemax thread in the Ritchey forum.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Son's 20" MTB:
Installed a new shifter with new inner and outer cable. He now has 7 gears again  (The old shifter indication showed gear nr. 4-7 only, the new one all numbers 1-7).

Main bike: 
Put on new inner shifting cables. Also blew out the outer cables and there was indeed some water in them, although the old inner cables were not rusty and still seemed to be well lubed after 3.5 years. They started to fray though so I replaced them. Hoping now they will not freeze up anymore.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

I stopped riding my 20" wheeled Dahon folder to work when the ice and snow started. I took this opportunity to give it a much needed re freshening. 
I replaced the Enduro bearings in the Bike Hub Store rear hub and got a new Anti Bite freehub. I replaced the Shimano bottom bracket, the chain, the brake pads and brake cables. While replacing the shifter cable, I found a big groove in the shifter body of the cheap grip shifter. I replaced it with a better shifter. I used Rock N Roll Lube's Cable Magic on all the cables. Wow! Great stuff. Using that on everything from now on. 
I replaced the 580mm handlebar with a 600mm bar, new silicone grips and I replaced the three year old Schwalbe Marathon Supremes that they don't make any more with brand new Marathons. The old tires were 1.6". The new ones are 1.75. I took the bike for a spin today. Bike rolls like steel wheels on rails. Shoulda changed the tires last year. Can't wait to start using it again.


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## joshhan (Apr 1, 2011)

Two flats in two days made me go tubeless on the commuter.

Therefore a pair of WTB Cruz (700x37) go on the commuter.

Hopefully, this helps.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

For some reason my rear wheel jumped out of the non-drive dropout and bend the brake rotor to heck. Tried to true it up without any success.


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

i added a 160 mm rear rotor to my Haanjo


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## Skaughtto (Jun 7, 2017)

Either I doubled the value of my bike or reduced the value of the carbon fork by installing it.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

*New Frame*

Old frame stripped out DS BB threads somehow. So got this one from China and built up the bike for the summer.


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## joshhan (Apr 1, 2011)

Nice job but I'm going to guess those brakes are a little overkill!


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

installed an extra set of hydros i had laying around. Today i need to improve the interface between the frame and sliding dropouts. Then align everything and it should be good to go.


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## Classy (Sep 30, 2015)

Transformed my cockpit this week. All new carbon bits. Went for a new bar/Stem combo, carbon post, saddle, and even splurged on a carbon seat post clamp. 
I saved over 1lb. from the stock set up. But more notcibly is the comfort I gained in the front end. The carbon bar/Stem combo flexes more and really takes the chatter out of the road. I haven't noticed much from the rear end, but overall, very happy. Slowly but surely dialing in my commuter!

8mths old, with 2300mi on 'er









Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Had shoulder replacement surgery 5 weeks ago and cant drive so ive been having to walk and/or take the bus to the market, stores and carry everything home. Last week i began thinking of setting up my commuter so that i could ride it one handed and carry stuff. So yesterday i installed a nashbar "sixer" rack using the canti posts and zipped a wald 139 basket to it. In order to keep weight off the operated on arm/shoulder i added a couple of spacers under the stem and replaced the surly open bar with a old easton riser i had laying around and added some esi grips. Rode it some 15 miles yesterday and the set up works well but i still have some drivetrain issues.


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## Pena (Oct 17, 2018)

Here is my daily commute ride.
Filmed today. The weather was slightly rainy, but who cares?
What do you think?


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Pena said:


> Here is my daily commute ride.
> Filmed today. The weather was slightly rainy, but who cares?
> What do you think?


Cant tell about the bike, can only see its got pretty fat tires and a rigid blue fork.

But that route is not a commute, its an epic ride!!


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## Sage of the Sage (Nov 10, 2011)

Picked up a set of PDW Mud shovels for the Timberjack, since it does double duty as the wet and snowy weather bike. I just can’t bear to clutter up the lines of the Warbird with fenders...


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Wrenched a bit today on the bikepacking / cx bike. Put in a wheel with dynamohub in the front to charge my phone and mounted a schwalbe marathon supreme in the rear. Bought the front wheel used and it came with a tube and marathon supreme in the same size so I just had to swap the front brake rotor.

Also installed the topeak seatpost rack with corresponding click-on trunkbag. Even found a blinkie to mount on the bag so with a front light I could even ride in the dark.

Will now start to experiment with strapping drybags on the rack and handlebar to see where everything fits and how much should go in the backpack. My ultimate goal is no backpack but I have to find out if I can achieve it. 

Also looking for crankset in 170mm to replace the 175mm ones that came with the bike.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Installed a new mt800 mtb bb bearings on the main bike. The old one died of water ingestion while standing still outside for almost 2 weeks....hope that these bearings have better seals too.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Installed used 170mm cranks I got cheap but after a short loop I am not satisfied. When I shift from the bigger to the smaller chainring the chain sometimes lies with a side of it on the inner chainring, with the other side it leans against the big chainring and slips. So I ordered a brandnew crankset and annoyed myself because the price went up from 78 to 92 compared to 2 weeks ago. So I paid a price for being cheap this time. At least I think I can get rid of the other cranksets without a loss.

And I have decided that I dont like the tiagra 10sp brifters and the spyre brakes on the bike. I was wearing thin gloves and still the hoods feel very hard in my hands, not sure how that will work out on long rides. And worse, when I grab the brake levers there is the risk they slip away from my gloves by moving inwards and shifting instead of braking. I think I should have gone for a bike with sram levers. Afaik their double tap system has brake levers that can only move to brake and not shift. Probably I am going to ride the bike 1 or 2 seasons and then try to get rid of it fro almost the same price that I got it for. We'll see about that later then..


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

^^ no one wrenched on their bikes since february?

I installed a brandnew pair or conti top contact winter II this afternoon. Took me 45minutes to mount them and then another 1.5hrs to cut of all the rubber hairs with swiss army knife scissors. I had to, those hairs were rubbing on the fenders.

I rode the first pair for about 10tkm/6tm before I managed to damage the rear one. They looked like they were only halfway worn, so to me it is worth the time if they will last so long again.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Nothing exciting, new chain. Came down a hill at 35mph, got the green, and when I leaned to take a right turn, the chain dropped off to the outside. Seing as this had never happened with the 1x11 wolftooth chainring, I knew something was up. Check yer chains!


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

I fixed a cold solder joint in the taillight. Some issues arose with my DIY headlights, so I also replaced my DIY twin XML lights with 2 Raveman CR900's (Cree XM-L2 emitters). These have a Fresnel lens in front of the usual conical lens to provide a decent cutoff. I think they could still use a hood to cut a bit more of the stray light on the 450 lumen setting and higher. (3 hour runtime). The 900 lumen lights up tree branches above the road pretty well (1.5 hour runtime). The 200 lumen level (6 hour runtime) is kind to motorists but may not be enough light for me on a fast downhill. Kinder than my old lights were. So some stuff to sort out. They have a nice high power flash mode (350 lumens, 16 hour runtime) I will use as a DRL.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Reflectors and lights in action (camera flash):









I also have front and rear helmet lights so they should see me.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

The new fenders:


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Wow brianmc, that is impressive lighting!


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## squeakymcgillicuddy (Jan 28, 2016)

De-gunked my front derailleur as it required a tap with my foot to drop into the smallest chainring. Need to replace the cables/housing too but I'm waiting for some parts to come in so I can just knock it all out at once.


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## krankie (Feb 22, 2019)

Finally got rid of the sram level brakes and installed my new Shimano SLX m7000 with cooling fins. Very happy with the result.


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## 36Miles (Nov 6, 2016)

Changed my rear tire from Control Fast Trak 2.3 to Grid Slaughter 2.3. Can't tell yet, after two rides in quite windy conditions, if the extra nearly 1/2 pound of weight is having any affect on my pedaling. I seem to be in the same gears, but standing up to pedal up some hills seems to have gotten a bit more difficult - that could stem from being tired out by the wind, though.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

36Miles said:


> Changed my rear tire from Control Fast Trak 2.3 to Grid Slaughter 2.3. Can't tell yet, after two rides in quite windy conditions, if the extra nearly 1/2 pound of weight is having any affect on my pedaling. I seem to be in the same gears, but standing up to pedal up some hills seems to have gotten a bit more difficult - that could stem from being tired out by the wind, though.


It's always like that though. Make one change and something else happens at the same time.


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## squeakymcgillicuddy (Jan 28, 2016)

My frame was developing rust in a few places where the paint had worn away, so I repainted it over the weekend and replaced the BB. Used an aerosol powder coat from Spray.Bike. Now I need some kind of frame protection so the paint doesn't get worn off again.


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## RMCDan (Feb 28, 2008)

lesoudeur said:


> Finished my commuting to work bike with a pair of Shimano SMRT99S rotors. Totally over the top but they do work well...and look the part.
> View attachment 1158054
> View attachment 1158055


What fenders are those? I want to add fenders to my commuter, but it's just too sexy to go with full townie-style fenders. I like the look of those a lot better. Here's my bike for reference:


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

SS convert. 43/16 new A23/formula wheels..basket...


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## squeakymcgillicuddy (Jan 28, 2016)

Wired up the dynamo light...Exposure Revo on Schmidt Son 28. Trying to resist putting on the fenders as long as I can but it's nearly time, one more soggy commute ought to do it.


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## Jelako (Jan 14, 2015)

It's been a week+, but adding the Ergotec M-99 has been a fantastic upgrade:


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

The squeaky wheel gets the grease. Or more accurately, the new bearings. Front hub of the Terra was complaining, dropped her off at the LBS with the fix-it-up-chappy.


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## raaden03 (Nov 6, 2017)

I just cleaned and re-lubed the chain.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

mtbxplorer said:


> The squeaky wheel gets the grease. Or more accurately, the new bearings. Front hub of the Terra was complaining, dropped her off at the LBS with the fix-it-up-chappy.


Sounds old school. :thumbsup:

I just got some new treads for the winter, standard puncture resistant 28c tires on the SS commuter. New chain and freewheel too. Good to go for another XXXX miles. 

The cross bike gets a new rear tire, and the fatbike needs nothing, yet.

All commuters, when I'm not riding them for fun.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

ordered a Cetma 5-bar portuer front rack for the SSCX. Bought the unpainted version and will using p/u truck bedliner to cover it. Thinking of using the same bed liner on e-bikes florescent green frame..so its all an [email protected] this point..


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

A couple days ago, but new rubber. Surly Extraterrestrial 29x2.5". Also within the last month new bar tape and a nicer bottom bracket. With these new tires, I really need all of my spinning bits to be more efficient while I'm getting up to speed!

Pic for cyclingdutchman, because I know he likes this model of bicycle.


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## ghettocruiser (Jun 21, 2008)

My back wheel is now far enough out of true that it's making a weird noise from the studs on the pavement. It's not rubbing the chainstays yet.

I remember back in the days of rim brakes, this sort of thing used to be an action item.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

NDD said:


> .... Pic for cyclingdutchman, because I know he likes this model of bicycle.....


you are right, it would be exactly my thing if it had adjustable dropouts, so I could ride it with my Rohloffwheel without a chain tensioner. Thanks for reminding me of a dreambike 

I replaced my rear light today and went from a Busch&Muller Flat S Plus: https://www.bumm.de/de/produkte/dynamo-rucklichter/parent/329.html?
to a 
Busch and Muller Line Small:
https://www.bumm.de/de/produkte/dynamo-rucklichter/parent/53234/produkt/53234ask.html?

I liked the first one better but the connectors on the bottom side and they were squeezed by the fender. After replacing the cable shoes 3x I decided to go for a smaller one. Looks better and sleeker, and it was cheaper too


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## theruns (Jul 25, 2016)

Old girl got drop bars!


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

cyclingdutchman said:


> you are right, it would be exactly my thing if it had adjustable dropouts, so I could ride it with my Rohloffwheel without a chain tensioner. Thanks for reminding me of a dreambike


Yes, but remember, it also has to be Ti, now!



theruns said:


> Old girl got drop bars!
> 
> View attachment 1308861


Dang look at that! I love the look of old geo bikes with drop bars. I've been toying around with putting mustache bars on my single speed but it's really the only bike I've got set up for trail riding so I probably just won't.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

gears...34/40 - 11/32 10 spd..the dad bike is complete


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

NDD actually I am not really looking for a fargo ti, but it is the only frame so far that ticks all my dreambike boxes. The steel version is too heavy. The trek 920 is aluminium which would be acceptable too, but the fargo is only steel or ti. Steel is too heavy, ti is quite pricey.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

cyclingdutchman said:


> NDD actually I am not really looking for a fargo ti, but it is the only frame so far that ticks all my dreambike boxes. The steel version is too heavy. The trek 920 is aluminium which would be acceptable too, but the fargo is only steel or ti. Steel is too heavy, ti is quite pricey.


I hate to break it to you but the stock 920 and steel Fargo are the same weight.


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## woodway (Dec 27, 2005)

cyclingdutchman said:


> Steel is too heavy, ti is quite pricey.


Habanero, Dutchman.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

Habanero, Dutchman.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

^^Does the habanero have the same tire clearance of a fargo? 

^^is the fargo frame just as stiff as the trek?


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

h a b a n e r o


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

There is an echo in here. 

The Habanero says it will take up to a 45C tire. 

I hear Litespeeds are nice too but pricier than the H A B A N E R O.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

*gettinouttaherebeforeitgetsexpensive*


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

bedwards1000 said:


> The Habanero says it will take up to a 45C tire.


Is that really big enough?


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## woodway (Dec 27, 2005)

bedwards1000 said:


> The Habanero says it will take up to a 45C tire.
> I hear Litespeeds are nice too but pricier than the H A B A N E R O.


With disc brakes, I bet it would take even a wider tire.

Litespeed Ti is even pricier than Fargo Ti.

Don't overthink it, Dutchman. Habanero.

3Al / 2.5V Brushed Titanium Frames from $995

Tell Mark that Brian-squared sent you.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

woodway said:


> Tell Mark that Brian-squared sent you.


LOL.

Yeah, a frame for $995 is in the impulse buy range. Get the frame and build it as you collect pieces. Of course once you get the frame that turns into about a week.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

bedwards1000 said:


> Yeah, a frame for $995 is in the impulse buy range.


Is it, though? Unless you're just kidding, but I think this is not true for most people.


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## bedwards1000 (May 31, 2011)

If you need a new pen in the office you just buy one. :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

With age comes wisdom. But it also comes with 2 adult kids that are through college and on their own. Money tends to loosen up more.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Ah that's the difference. I have no children, but am yet a fledgeling and really only started a solid career two years ago. Plus I end up spending money on fixing things around the house... The joys of living in a 117 year old house! 

Yesterday what I did to my commuter was pop a tube jumping curbs like a hoodlum when I knew the tires needed air. So when it stops raining I'll clean the whole bike and put a new tube in.


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## woodway (Dec 27, 2005)

bedwards1000 said:


> With age comes wisdom. But it also comes with 2 adult kids that are through college and on their own. Money tends to loosen up more.


I put three through college. Every time one graduated, I got a raise


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Came across this today, and figured that this would be the thread for it:

https://tesla-pump.com/?fbclid=IwAR39LPkfyWCNAnooUSGeoy0Ktvvwn9rDktasAjAbrp4qS7tX6bIPDmLNZXM


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

BrianMc said:


> Came across this today, and figured that this would be the thread for it:
> 
> https://tesla-pump.com/?fbclid=IwAR39LPkfyWCNAnooUSGeoy0Ktvvwn9rDktasAjAbrp4qS7tX6bIPDmLNZXM


I love how they misspell their own company name. Is it TeslaPump or TesslaPump?


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

That Tesla pump is a pound in weight. Quite a bit more than my current pump and a lot pricier. It will likely drop in price in the future, but it will not get any lighter.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Maintenance week here!
Cleaned and lubed all bikes more thoroughly than the usual quick wipe
Adjusted brakes and gears on all bikes

24" mtb of my son: new shift cable for the front derailer, he can now even use it (he was riding all the time on the smaller chainring before)

Wife's bike and mine: new tires, continental contact 47-622, which are 44mm wide on our rims with 19/ 21mm inner width

Outstanding while not delivered yet: rear derailer protectors for both kid mtb's because they tend to fall over al lot and of course always on the derailer side :-/


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## carthief (Aug 11, 2014)

Rode it home in a thunderstorm monday morning so I cleaned and oiled it. Then I put a bigger battery on my GlowWorm headlight. Then on my way back to work this morning I had to ride through about a 500' stretch of path that was under about 12" of water. I have chain lube here so I'll at least clean and oil that before going back home.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Wrong discussion.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Noticed that the BB axle wasnt turning smoothly anymore on the 24"er. So I took off the cranks, measured the axle width and ordered a new cartridge, the wellknown Shimano UN55. I always read that those cartridges are a PitA to change, but the old one came out very easily. It turned out it wasnt a cartridge at all, when I took out one shell and the axle, there were 2 rings of ball bearings on the axle. I mean how old is that?? I remember replacing such an axle with a cartridge back in the 90ies or something.. Putting in the new cartridge was easy too, but because one side is treaded the wrong side I watched a youtube video just to be sure and it worked out fine.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

New rear hub bearings, new chain and freewheel, new tire.

Two weeks later I broke a spoke pulling away from a light. Went to turn a nipple on the neighboring spoke and that one broke too. Afraid it needs to be rebuilt.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Collecting the parts for a 650B conversion with 42 mm street tires. I have built/rebuilt 4 wheels before. 

Have the rear long reach brake with the front one coming, the rims, tires, tubes, rim tape, the hubs are here, and the cassette coming. I like 10 speeds, and saw no reason to get new brifters to get 11 or 12. The spokes are paid for and ordered at the LBC (they did not have much for 650B wheels. Need to make myself a dish gauge (2X 4 based). In the past I worked the wheels in the frame using narrowed brake pads to test for round, warp, or dish. At least this time it is not the Deep Vee with the lost-in-the-rim nipples. I now know the trick to avoid that but won't need it. 

Pictures when all arrives, then after the build. 

With 42 x 650 the bike will be the same height as if the 700C's wore 23's and I get a 5 mm more fender clearance if I pick up something like what caused the 2013 crash. 

Could have bought a nice used bike. Plan on putting the Campy Triple 53-42-30 that was on the Mercian on the Schwinn with the 700C's and no fenders as a lighter fewer frills machine.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

The new cassette arrived. But the wrong spokes in one size were delivered to the LBS last week about 2 weeks after the order was made. They don't stock many 650B spokes but have a nice array of 700C. The correct ones are reordered and I await the call from the LBS. A bit embarrassing for the LBS as I paid for them but they did not record the sizes so had to go through the rim-hub calculator again for 3 cross pattern. Could have gone radial in front, but like he strength of the 3 cross.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

*All here but have the wrong front brake.*

Reordered long reach front brake, otherwise, all here. SARS : Some Assembly Required, Stupid!


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## OlavMe (Nov 5, 2017)

Not today, but through last week (today was first time commuting with the new setup), some radical changes have been implemented on my Attitude commuter bike. 

Swapped the old bontrager 26" wheels, with stiff and strong Carbon 650B wheels. Set ut with tubolito and continental race king for low rolling resistance and a comfortable ride. Put on a 700c alu fork, 4 pot magura disc brakes, and a jones loop bar on rising stem. In addition went from 3x9 to 1x9.

Its stiff, its pedal efficient, and I have an upright position while cycling.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Pictures soon (tomorrow?) when the front brake is installed. 

The tires were a hard install. I have seen installed some with bare hands. I broke a tire lever! I also have never had a tire installation have so many high/low spots. Maybe its the nature of a wider thin walled and thin tread tire. Got most of them out by messaging the tires with about 5 pounds air in them to get the rim lines on each tire about equal . Still have a minimal rise in the label area on both.

A decent 5 mm clearance in the fork, but only 3 in the chain stays. Will have to keep the axle tight. They sure absorb road imperfections. I forgot to transfer the speed magnet and the Garmin reported about 2/3 speed.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I've updated the chains and chainrings of all 3 bikes I've used for commuting. One bike that used to be run SS got a 46T chainring and the 8-speed drivetrain (minus FD) from my other commuter. This bike is now relegated to full-time trainer duty with a trainer specific tire in the back and a new Bluetooth speed & cadence sensor for tracking rides. The trainer already has HR, power, speed, and cadence, but there's no way to export the data. Now I can at least get most of the data on my Strava automatically, rather than manually entering it. I already have a Bluetooth HR strap, so the only thing missing will be power.

The bike I have been running as a SS for a while now got a new chain and a 16T cog out back. The 18T cog I had been running was the limit of acceptable as far as chain tension goes. Even with a tensioner, I was having some issues with the chain. Moving to 16T means that the chain tension was fairly decent without a tensioner, and I can now run the tensioner so it's pushing up instead of down. It's working much better now.

The geared bike I use for commuting, which is my old mtb converted to rigid, got a new set of tires (2.0" WTB Thickslicks), new chainrings, new derailleur pulleys, and a new chain. It also go new brake pads and a bleed with some old brake fluid. I'm not in the habit of planning for crap bleeds, but the rear brake locked up and I used what I had on hand. I'll likely have to rebleed in the future, but I'd rather do that later in the year. So far the bleed is working fine.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

The Duchess as 650B. The fron brake is incapacitated until the long reach one arrives (overdue).









Note newly repaired and repainted garage wall. It likely will not be this neat for long!


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Long reach front brake arrived today and was installed. The rear was enough, but the habits die hard. Had to adapt the mounting bolt as the long nut was too large in diameter for the fork or the fender bracket holes. They likely did not expect an installation on a 39 year old British fork, though the fender is quite recent. A few metric bits from the local hardware store and all is well.


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## bbender785 (Sep 14, 2015)

OlavMe said:


> Not today, but through last week (today was first time commuting with the new setup), some radical changes have been implemented on my Attitude commuter bike.
> 
> Swapped the old bontrager 26" wheels, with stiff and strong Carbon 650B wheels. Set ut with tubolito and continental race king for low rolling resistance and a comfortable ride. Put on a 700c alu fork, 4 pot magura disc brakes, and a jones loop bar on rising stem. In addition went from 3x9 to 1x9.
> 
> Its stiff, its pedal efficient, and I have an upright position while cycling.


i looove this thing.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bbender785 (Sep 14, 2015)

always watching but never searching, i stumbled across a set of extremely lightly-used Velocity hubs that fit my commuter on ebay. not needing them, i put a silly-low bid in... and won. so i kept my eye out for a rim and found a NOS one at a steep discount as well. so built a new rear up for the commuter (already have a velocity rim laced to a roval hub up front).










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bbender785 (Sep 14, 2015)

i also have some fenders on this thing that don't quite offer the coverage i want for rain. i've read lots of hacks online about using milk cartons, etc to make extensions. tried that once and wasn't aesthetically pleased. so i grabbed a stack of Ass Savers clip-on fenders on ebay from china as well for less than $2 a piece to cut up. finally got around to getting them fabricated tonight and they turned out just like i pictured.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bbender785 (Sep 14, 2015)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bbender785 (Sep 14, 2015)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Replaced both shift cables prior to the local sponsored ride. Debated doing the cable housings too. Local LBS did not stock Campy cables, so it was a trip 3 hour trip to hit two that each had one. Knew the front cable and or housing was dirty or had a bind, should have ordered them on line. They are thinner then Shimano cables and have a smaller anchor head domed on each and slight smaller in diameter and with a C in a circle on each side. May need to consider adding those and brake cables to my parts stock if they are that hard to come by.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Added front mudflap:


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

The new rims have no place to put the reflective tape/fluorexcent tape that were on the Deep Vees. Could have gone with lightweights again, but thought I would try these:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/outsider-team/flectr-zero/description

I suspect that the nice wide viewing angles are from a light associated with the camera. My experience of video of reflectors using a car with lights on at right angles, is that the reflectors show up about 1 second before you are right in from of cross traffic. Still, oncoming cars' lights should light them up to reduce left turn hooks. The motion on the wheels makes such reflectors if they are lit up, quite attention getting. Will be here sometime in November.


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## bbender785 (Sep 14, 2015)

those are neat!

my summer tires, winter tires, and studded tires all have the reflective stripe.. it’s a must when shopping for me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

New basket since the old jerry rigged rando/zip tied basket set up is on its final legs...


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

bbender785 said:


> My summer tires, winter tires, and studded tires all have the reflective stripe.. it's a must when shopping for me.


Even with padded gloves and bar onlong rides my hands ache from too harsh a tire on one bike. The errand bile has striped Michelins as I don't ride it far or long plus liteweights on the spokes.

The 650B rims I converted to don't have wide enough shoulders for tape. Here is the 700C former wheels with reflector & fluorescent tape sections lit up by the phone camera flash:


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## bbender785 (Sep 14, 2015)

sweet.

i've been impressed with how bright the tire stripes are.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

*New lights*

I replaced my DIY twin XML headights with twin Ravemen CR900's a few months ago and did not post that here. They have a fresnel lens to make them more like a car's low beam.

I replaced the helmet DIY "high beam" light with the newer CR1000 which has a better low beam style cutoff.

Here are the culprits:









The CR900's have a ray of light that shoots out at 45 degrees and is wasted. It also has a bit more light above it's hot spot than I'd like. So I tried a hood cut out of a small pharmacy amber bottle while I was in photograpy mode.

(How the hood was made: I cut the bottom and threads off to provide as long a hood as I could make from that bottle. I used black electrical tape to stop light coming from the amber part of the hood to mess up my night vision. It needs to be wider and aluminum duct tape inside of the black tape to send that light to the ground. I used 3M double sided tape to the bezel at the front of the light. I am not sure how that will work if you were balsting 900 lumnes out of it. I suspect the adhesive would let go if the light gets warm enough. I don't use full power so I think that will work.)

Here is the unmodified CR900 shot across my garage door:









The 45 degree ray is not seen by the camera, but it is there.

Looking toward the door jamb:









The hooded CR90

















Now the CR1000:









Note the small red side marker light.









Much better cut off on the CR1000, and the hood on the CR900 helps some but is not as good as the CR1000.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

*More Beam shots*

Here is another take on the amount of hot spot and spill over:

CR900:









CR900 with hood:









CR1000:

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/rQqawi.jpg

The hot spot has very good throw.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

*Some other shots*

CR1000 Full power shot down a 40 foot drop over about 180 feet to the green of the 12th fairway rough:









Shooting back up at high power and the trunk beside where I shot from showed up better in person:









The trunk dropped some in visibility with drops in output, but there was not a huge difference above the limp home setting. The CR900's were also not noticeably different.

Shooting on the fairway:









CR900:

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/9CDRN2.jpg

Notice differnt shape of beam. Also the lights in the first are much fainter because the camera phone cut exposure back, so the first is much brighter. The second lit brancehs of trees to the side (50 feet or more away).

CR1000 full power down my drive across to neighbor door (240 feet):









The CR900 full power, similar.









The CR900 has a power level, flush touch for mode changes, programmable UI, and remote button also for mode changes. The CR1000 is changed through levels with the on button. It is more suited to the helmet where you can't see a readout. Set it and forget it. I found that the third level on these lights (about 350 lumnes out of the CR1000 and 300 out of the CR900's is adequate light and provides excellent run times.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Currently turning my errand bike into my Winter exercise bike and backup summer bike, and a Mixte bike I have into the errand bike. 

Decided to strip the Schwinn to the frame and treat it to frame Saver. 

Discovered the BB was a bit rough. No sealed bearings, not loose bearings but gaged ones. The chain side was a steel caged bearing set and the left was a plastic one that the bearings were turning into a grease-plastic combo. I like the sealed bearings of the Campy square drive on my usual ride and I am putting the Campy Triple on this bike as I have it laying about.


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## OneTrustMan (Nov 11, 2017)

I replaced the worn Deore 3x10 on my bike with a shiny new 1x12 Deore.









Next the tires. Need better ones for all this snow. 








￼


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## martinsillo (Jul 31, 2009)

"Out of the box"









Removed: Factory Reflectors, some stickers and pedals.










Added: DIY Rim Reflectors, couple of blinkies in the back, blinkie up front along with an old Magicshine (900 lumens?) and old flat/spd pedals.

Need to think on a way to safely carry a laptop...front or back rack...no backpack.

fenders and other other items on its way.


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## martinsillo (Jul 31, 2009)

got the fenders, crankbros double shot pedals, put a red reflector tape on the back fender.....and for the fenders on the back I used the origin8 light mounts to direct the blinkies a bit better to the back.

oh and I got to play with the new table stand!


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## martinsillo (Jul 31, 2009)

GA3s in and installed


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## martinsillo (Jul 31, 2009)

got my hands on the rack!!
test fitted today...exactly what I had envisioned for it!

Need to cut stays and put the plastic caps.









Slightly tilted back setup.


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## martinsillo (Jul 31, 2009)

Front Rack/bag setup up and running!
old jandd bag is going to be replaced soon by a nice matching set of frame bags


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## bbender785 (Sep 14, 2015)

martinsillo said:


> Front Rack/bag setup up and running!
> old jandd bag is going to be replaced soon by a nice matching set of frame bags
> 
> View attachment 1918744


that thing is looking sweet.


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## bbender785 (Sep 14, 2015)

back to fully-normal commuting today. in the time off i've done a drop bar conversion, which also turned into a rear drivetrain overhaul (went from 9 speed to 10). now running 52cm Ritchey Venturemax XL Comps wrapped with Salsa tape, a SRAM Apex right shifter/brake and SRAM S500 left brake, shifting an X9 short cage derailleur on an 11-40 Sunrace cassette. Also went with some 38 Panaracer Gravelking SS+ tires&#8230; so far i love these things.


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## martinsillo (Jul 31, 2009)

Soma dream risers were waiting for me after work...did a short ride around the block after installing and I'm liking it

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## Buster Bluth (Sep 11, 2008)

martinsillo said:


> Soma dream risers were waiting for me after work...did a short ride around the block after installing and I'm liking it
> 
> Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk


Got more pix? That's a lovely looking ride.


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## martinsillo (Jul 31, 2009)

Buster Bluth said:


> Got more pix? That's a lovely looking ride.


as it looks today after riding to work 









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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Buster Bluth, please tell me your main ride's name is Lucille.


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## Buster Bluth (Sep 11, 2008)

I've got Lucille 1 and Lucille 2.
Hey, brother!


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Got my stable of old steel bikes modified and ready to roll. The oldest is a Schwinn World Sport 4130 Chrome Moly straight gauge main tubes circa 1976, that I got for free. That would make it analogous to my 1972 Raleigh Supercourse Reynolds 531 straight frame tube bike (minus the nice fancy lugs). It is the largest they made (63 cm) and I just clear the stand over in shoes, and have the top tube snug in the perineal region if in socks (35.5" inseam, that 0.5 inch extra came in handy).

With a set of Velocity Deep V rims with Campy Chorus hubs and 10 speed (13-29) cassette, left from converting the Mercian to 650B, I decided to covert the Schwinn to a winter bike. A few rides told me I needed to convert it to index shifting so picked up a used set of Campy Veloce 10 Spd brifters and saved the new hardly used Shimano cables and housings for the errand bike. I had the Campy 53-42-30 triple. Transferred the nice Universal side pulls that were on the Mercian. The headset and frame are original, everything else was replaced. I had a set of Wellgo dual sided pedals gathering dust, so winter boots are accommodated. It is using a 9 spd Shimano Deore rear derailleur as a 10 speed delivery is set now for summer 2022. I have mounts to move lights from the Mercian. I may move these fenders to the errand bike and get new and change the green reflective rim tape for a blue, but the wheels will fit back on the Mercian with the brake pads as high as they will go, and the green works on that bike.


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## Stewieftw (Jul 29, 2021)

TenSpeed said:


> Instead of clogging up other threads with the minor stuff that we have done, from adding or swapping parts to maintenance stuff, I thought we could put it all here.
> 
> Just got home from the local bike shop. I went in for help. I admitted defeat. I didn't want to ruin the snap ring holding my 18t cog on, and since this is a custom wheel, wasn't sure if I would damage it or not, so I took it to the pros. 18t was causing me to spin out, so I picked up a 16t which is what came on the bike originally. I was sure that I could install it myself. I was wrong. Mechanic at the shop not only did it, but showed me how to do it in case I need to remove it in the future. Not only did he do it once, he showed me a couple of times, giving me a small tip and trick along the way. Service like that is just invaluable for someone like me, who is learning. This is my first single speed, my first coaster brake since I was a kid, my first true attempt at doing stuff on my own. Always had a good buddy show me, and do stuff for me, but I want to be self sufficient. Turns out he is big into coaster brake bikes, and is working on a really old Schwinn that he is turning fakie track bike like mine. Having someone like that working less than 2 miles from me is simply invaluable.
> 
> ...


Washed off the blood and dirt after crash ???


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Got my stable of old steel bikes modified and ready to roll, Part II.

I picked up a circa 1979 Peugeot Mixte bike for $50 so I can step through if I have paniers and a rack load in back (My future flexibility is suspect). Peugeot used and in house Chrom Moly, and while the frame is not light, it is not excessively heavy either and has a rep as a strong frame. I transferred the Shimano 9 speed rear wheel, and used the Suntour stem mount shifter from the Schwinn (the original Peugeot factory unit is a Sachs-Huret was meant for a 5 speed and would only cover 8 of the sprockets). The Sugino Crankset was an upgrade on the old Supercouse which was on the Mercian until 2009. The worn out 52 was machined to be a guard so the bike is a 1 x 9 = 42 x (13-32). Wise choice of routes about town make that doable, but I may need to downsize the front to a 36 at some point. The Sugino was free. The rear Weimann Center Pull original brake was kept but new Cool Stop pads installed. The front wheel has a 90 mm Sturmey-Archer (now made in Taiwan) drum brake/generator hub which drives a 3-LED light of my design as a daytime running light. I may upgrade the admittedly ugly, but nice and cheap Porteur-style rack in the future if I get enough use to justify the cost. A new 9-speed cheap Shimano RD was available but I was intending a 10 speed for the Schwinn and the Deore for this bike. My old set of Campy Record pedals with Clips worked well on the Schwinn version of the errand bike so I kept them. Definitely classic.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Got my stable of old steel bikes modified and ready to roll, Part III.

Now the newest at only 40 years old is the Mercian. Verified that I could convert it back to the 700 C wheels on the Schwinn (long reach Tektro's adjusted to minimum position). Only the seat post, headset and fork remain from the 1982 build. (Though the Sugino crankset and Campy Record pedals live on on the Peugeot.) The bike was 2 x 5, 2 x 7, 3 x7, then 3 x 10. I like the 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 part of the 13-29 cassette as it reminds me of the close ratio 14, 15, 16, 18, 21 that was on the Supercourse (in flat Campaign-Urbana).


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## martinsillo (Jul 31, 2009)

cut the dream risers to 740mm and had a proper fit done at the LBS on saturday.
loved the series @BrianMc and the bikes!


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## Buster Bluth (Sep 11, 2008)

martinsillo said:


> cut the dream risers to 740mm and had a proper fit done at the LBS on saturday.
> loved the series @BrianMc and the bikes!


I like my bars pretty wide in general but I think I might take 10mm off of each side of my dream bars so it will be 760mm. I'll see how that feels and maybe drop it to 740mm too.


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## asphaltdude (Sep 17, 2008)

Tried to bolt a pair of SKS Bluemels 75 U Long fenders to my 1st gen Surly Ogre.
I don't know how exactly SKS intended them to be installed, but one of the struts that came with the set was too short to be used at the front or rear. Probably for mid-fork blade eyelets only? (which my Ogre doesn't have, since it has a KM fork)

Anyway, I ended up cutting one strut to measure, which was a breeze, so why don't they just provide longer struts? Had to do some cutting and drilling as well to get the fender to fit nicely at the bottom bracket area. After that, installing the rear fender was easy, and I'm very happy with how it fits.

Now waiting for the extra long spare strut to arrive so I can install the front fender, too.


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## asphaltdude (Sep 17, 2008)

Since this afternoon, Shrek 1.9 has a front fender, too!
And a $ 7 Deckas chainring to (not) match the other green parts. 👻
Oh and I put the Surly headtube badge back on.


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## martinsillo (Jul 31, 2009)

good looking ogre @asphaltdude 

not exactly done to the commuter but with the T900 coming home had to work on the garage organization a little ..now the commuter is up front for a quick departure/arrival 😋


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## asphaltdude (Sep 17, 2008)

Thanks! Your garage floor looks meticulously clean by the way!


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## martinsillo (Jul 31, 2009)

asphaltdude said:


> Thanks! Your garage floor looks meticulously clean by the way!


hehe yes...that was also a cleaning day...that's the issue with epoxy, it shows dirt too much...so every now an then I mop it.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

I have ridden with a POV camera for much of the time since 2010. Recently I gave up the second Drift camera as it is long in the tooth and the second battery has little run time. So I bought 2 Drift Ghost X's for the price of Garmin's rear radar unit. One faces forward and the other takes up my helmet position facing the rear, with my phone on network with it. Mounting it to the rear rack gave too much vibration. Adjusting the clip mount and rotating the lens got me a level view in my usual riding position with the horizon in mid screen. I had to move the Garmin and the front camera on to a mount out front of the phone mount. test rode it when they said chance of rain was least, today. Camera's set on 1.5 minute blocks of run time, recycling on 128 GB micro flash cards. They say 5 hour run time and 8 hour batteries are available so a pair would be 13 hours. Cards hold a few days run time and you can tag segments to not be rewritten. A bit more crowded cockpit with the camera, Garmin, and phone in portrait mode, than I would like, but it is doable.


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## martinsillo (Jul 31, 2009)

^ interesting @BrianMc, are you posting you "encounters" somewhere?


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

martinsillo said:


> ^ interesting @BrianMc, are you posting you "encounters" somewhere?


I posted way back in this thread a Livestock trailer that was cut back in too soon with my first camera maybe 2010 or 2011.



https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img842/3048/close1n.jpg



I have a video of a too close (18"?) pass (2016) when I vacationed in Ohio.

Passing Too Close? - YouTube

Then there is the video of getting a flat tire at 19 mph leaned into a sharp turn:

Front Flat in Corner - YouTube


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## Buster Bluth (Sep 11, 2008)

I'm in the middle of removing the Paselas and putting on Gravelking SK. Need another tubeless stem and a compressor to complete the frustrating task. Might need more stans tape possibly as it's pretty old?

Cut down my Dream Bars a whopping 5mm on each side. Now it's 770mm. Still pretty damn wide but I'm into hitting sketchy stuff whilst commuting and I like the width.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

The real time video from camera to phone seems to eat a lot of phone battery. About 50% in an hour. I have an outboard battery recharge pack for the phone. I will update when I have more than a crude guesstimate.


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## martinsillo (Jul 31, 2009)

Installed the inner barends and some bar tape!
As you see I misplaced the black electrical tape hehe that will get fixed soon
Left a bit of space between the left lever and the tape for a bell that should be here soon.
The tape puts the middle of the bars pretty thick, so not sure if I'll keep it all the way there for good..at the bar ends its just perfect.









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## martinsillo (Jul 31, 2009)

BrianMc said:


> The real time video from camera to phone seems to eat a lot of phone battery. About 50% in an hour. I have an outboard battery recharge pack for the phone. I will update when I have more than a crude guesstimate.


Curious, why run it all the time in real time?

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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

martinsillo said:


> Curious, why run it all the time in real time?


Because I could not trust that I'd get it turned on when I needed it on. My front flat tire would never have been recorded and I am afraid car-me incidents would be much the same.


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## theruns (Jul 25, 2016)

Just installed a Wald 137 Basket on a sunlite front rack for some basketpacking style commuting. I'm surprised how well this bike handles with weight on the front.


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## Buster Bluth (Sep 11, 2008)

martinsillo said:


> Installed the inner barends and some bar tape!
> As you see I misplaced the black electrical tape hehe that will get fixed soon
> Left a bit of space between the left lever and the tape for a bell that should be here soon.
> The tape puts the middle of the bars pretty thick, so not sure if I'll keep it all the way there for good..at the bar ends its just perfect.
> ...


Good call on the bar tape and inner bar ends. I find I grab that part of the bar (also a Soma Dream Bar) a lot when fighting the wind. Definitely need at least bar tape there but will probably go with bar ends as well.


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## Buster Bluth (Sep 11, 2008)

theruns said:


> View attachment 1953949
> 
> 
> Just installed a Wald 137 Basket on a sunlite front rack for some basketpacking style commuting. I'm surprised how well this bike handles with weight on the front.


Looks like you're rocking the Gravelking SK's too. They've made my old Gary Fisher a fun bike again.


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## martinsillo (Jul 31, 2009)

added some emergency paracord/coffee mug protector....orange I know hehe I might have a problem.
added the bell...must admit I could have use at least 1 of those 2 cm I cut from the bar..its tight between the bell and the inner bar end but still doable.

Edit: I give up with this picture thing...sorry if they are too big or misaligned.


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## theruns (Jul 25, 2016)

Buster Bluth said:


> Looks like you're rocking the Gravelking SK's too. They've made my old Gary Fisher a fun bike again.


They are awesome aren’t they? I’m hopeful I can fit them on another bike of mine. They are so comfy and fast I want them on all of my 26 in bikes from now on. 


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## asphaltdude (Sep 17, 2008)

Shrek adopted an orphan Mavic Crossmax ST front wheel, so my commute just got 0.01829184% faster.


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