# Big guy looking to buy a bike, total noob though... :(



## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

Ive tried searching, but its like drinking from a firehose. Im hoping a few specific questions will get me on the right track. First, some background...

Im 36 yrs old, 6'0", and about 350 pounds. While I know its easy to throw out "go on a diet", its the one thing in life I've struggled to conquer. I stopped smoking years ago, and it was tenfold easier than losing weight. So Im fully aware that I need to lose weight, hence my interest in biking....Im hoping that by introducing some exercise in my life thats enjoyable, I'll stick with it and it will give me the kickstart I need. I digress, so with all of that said, Im in the market for a new bike. One that can bear my weight is paramount. I'll be doing mostly flat trails or riding around the neighborhood, but wouldnt be above trying a light trail once Im comfortable riding again. I would typically say that price isnt an object, but given that Im new and that Ive seen a few bikes rival the cost of economy cars, Im gonna say $750 or so is my limit.

I stopped in a LBS today to look around and test ride a couple of bikes. The first salesman really pushed the 29" bikes. I wasnt very happy with him, so as he smoothed over to a pretty young girl to flirt with as best i can tell, I grabbed another saleman that didnt share the same penchant for 29", but didnt rule them out. I tried out a 29" and 26" Rockhopper Comp disc...and seemed to favor the 26" better. Just seemed like I could control it better, but I really dont know how a bike should feel, so that doesnt mean its the right choice. The bikes I looked at that seem like contenders are:

Spec Rockhopper Comp Disc
Trek 4500 Disc
Gary Fisher Wahoo (dont know if they have discs or not)
Cannondale F5

Are there any other bikes I should look at in this price range? Would I be better off buying a Rockhopper (or whatever) with standard brakes and then upgrading to better components? Or do I save even more money and buy a lower priced bike and swap as much stuff out as possible? Are the disc brakes worth the extra coin on these units? Any issues with any of the choices listed?

I appreciate all of your help. I apologize for the long winded post, but I want to be sure Im making as sound an investment as I can...Im hoping to get several years of service from this, and hopefully, several more years out of me. Thanks in advance!


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## Brewboy74 (Mar 6, 2005)

Those bikes will be fine. With any new bike how you feel on it is the most important thing. Here is how I fit bikes. 1) You want the cockpit length (length from seat to handle bars) set so your arms are extended with a slight bend in the elbow. 2) You want the seat set so that your leg is almost fully extended on each pedal stroke, just a slight bend in the knee. 3) once those are set look at the seat post length if there is a ton sticking out then you most likely need a bigger frame. If there is next to none sticking out then you probably need a smaller frame. By the most bike you can afford. Hardtail (no rear shock) bikes will always give you more for your money. It is more expensive to upgrade parts than it is to get nicer ones on a new bike. Being a larger guy you might want to stick with a 26" wheel because this will give you a stiffer stronger wheels. Find one that fits ride the hell out of it and then sell it and buy something nicer thats how this addiction works. Have fun :thumbsup:


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

I think you should visit the Clydesdales/Tall Riders area too. There's lots of understanding for issues relating to big guys there:
http://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?f=95

... yeah, frame sizing is essential for your comfort and efficiency on the bike. The bikes that you list are made to survive "normal" guys riding on pretty rough trails. Quite likely they can handle you on relatively smooth ground, as long as you can adjust the fork stiff enough for your weight.


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

If you felt more comfortable on the 26" bike then it makes perfect sense to go that route. Don't worry about the 29" thing, it has it's place, but I don't think it's ideal for you on a first bike. 

Buy the bike you feel most comfortable on and deal with whatever componets it comes with. Don't worry about the "is this better than that" game, you'll never stop. I would say that you'll want to go with a bike with disc brakes, hydraulic if possible. And big guys will run through parts a bit faster than average so don't worry about upgrading off the bat, upgrade as things wear or break. Like perttime suggested, the Clyde forum will probably give you some good advice.


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## hardwarz (Jun 12, 2009)

The advantage of a 29er is that they will travel faster. The larger diameter tire will give you more distance with each crank revolution vs a identical drivetrain on a 26" or 700c tire.

The disadvantage is the since the wheel is so large, acceleration is reduced. You're not a competition racer, so this won't matter.

I've heard people complain about the larger diameter wheel being inherently weaker. Truthfully, I haven't seen it personally, but understand the physics behind it.

With your size, I'd guess you'd want to try a full rigid. Nothing to go wrong, less up keep. Maybe something like a GT 29er Peace full rigid.

https://www.performancebike.com/bikes//Product_10052_10551_1074268_-1___

**************
Edit1: Fine, here's a smaller picture... but how are you suppose to see all the details?!?! lol










The wheels are nice and strong. I've seen some road bike wheels with weight limits of 300lbs (Vuelta Corsa HD road bike wheelset) but I haven't seen MTB wheels with weight limits. Maybe it's best to contact the manufacturer of each bike you're interested in to make sure that there isn't a limit. E-mails are easy to send.


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## Marcster (Apr 28, 2010)

ron gray said:


> I stopped in a LBS today to look around and test ride a couple of bikes. The first salesman really pushed the 29" bikes. I wasnt very happy with him, so as he smoothed over to a pretty young girl to flirt with as best i can tell, I grabbed another saleman that didnt share the same penchant for 29", but didnt rule them out. I tried out a 29" and 26" Rockhopper Comp disc...and seemed to favor the 26" better. *Just seemed like I could control it better,* but I really dont know how a bike should feel, so that doesnt mean its the right choice.


Based on the geometry of a 26" wheeled bike vs. a 29" wheeled bike, the 26" wheeledbike *will *steer faster and handle tighter, it's not a incredibly drastic difference, but it is there... That may be the "just seemed like I could control it better" feeling that you had. _And there's not a single thing wrong with that... _ Go with a 26" wheeled bike and ride it like a madman. :thumbsup:

I haven't bought a proper bike yet myself, but the salesman at one of the bike shops I stopped in said he was happy to sell people 29ers, but he personally prefers 26" wheeled bike.

The 29er vs. 26" wheeled debate is _*very *_similar to charcoal vs. gas.









----

And holy hell, hardwarz, that photo is just a tad smaller than lifesize!


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

A 29er is not better because you are heavy. And it does not necessarily steer sluggishly (that is primarily a function of steering geometry). It just rolls better over trail irregularities and probably accelerates a little worse because of the somewhat higher "rotating weight" ...

I agree with the suggestion to go with the bike that you are comfortable on, as long as it seems it is built strong enough for you.

Sizing: I suppose most people about 6'0" would be put on a Large or 18" to 20" bike frame. There's no real consistency in sizing labels between brands, or even models, though. Seat tube length is not all that important. To simplify a lot, the distance from seat to handlebar is what gives you a good riding position.

(not a lot of responses in the Clyde area but that forum is well worth browsing for a tall or heavy guy)

edit:
Uhhh, hardwarz, can't you find a smaller pic...


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## Mikecito (Jun 2, 2007)

I think the 29" wheels in that photo are actual size  

To the OP, I have the Rockhopper 29er and used to ride a Wahoo disk. Both are fun bikes and will get the job done for you. If your feeling better on the 26", I say go for it and put some larger volume tires on for your weight and comfort.

I will also say that if possible, try to save up some more money to get a bike with a better fork (not a Dart). Forks are an expensive upgrade to do later and once you start to ride more, you will wish you had more money upfront for a better bike. 

As has been mentioned, the Clydesdale forum will have a ton (haha) of great info for you.


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## hardwarz (Jun 12, 2009)

BTW, I'm not tall... I ride a medium frame bike, get what you feel best on and fits you best.

I have a 26" full suspension, a 29" hardtail and a 700c commuter. I love them all, but they are all setup differently and have their place.

My 26" is setup as a trail bike.
My 29" is setup as a cross country bike.
My 700c is a commuter that doesn't get used as a commuter. lol. It's used on hard packed limestone/paved (Erie Canal Tow Path) path or the road.

You may end up starting out with a 26" and moving to something else after a while... or you may just stick with the 26". Whatever you do, realize it's an addiction. lol


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## hardwarz (Jun 12, 2009)

Mikecito said:


> I will also say that if possible, try to save up some more money to get a bike with a better fork (not a Dart).


I know there's not a lot of love for the Dart, but what's wrong with it? It's an entry level XC fork on an entry level MTB bike.


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## Mikecito (Jun 2, 2007)

I think for an average size rider the Darts are fine, but at 350lbs he's going to be pushing the limits of that fork. 
I'm "only" 230 with gear and I feel the flex with my Dart 3. Cheap forks seem to be the 1st regret (mine included) when buying a budget mtb, so I'm just trying to save him some upgrade $$.


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## Blksocks (Dec 22, 2009)

> Im 36 yrs old, 6'0", and about 350 pounds.
> 
> 
> > While I know its easy to throw out "go on a diet", its the one thing in life I've struggled to conquer
> ...


Right eating + Bike riding = slim figure. Don't worry! :thumbsup:


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## cdubb (May 22, 2010)

Blksocks said:


> Right eating + Bike riding = slim figure. Don't worry! :thumbsup:


I'll second that. I've only started riding since I picked up my '09 Tassajara weeks ago. I can see the weight loss in my face and my waist is slimming some. I try to get out everyday after work for a quick 7mi ride. Its not much, but it gets me off the couch until the weekend comes.


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

Thanks for all the advice folks. I was really leaning toward the Cannondale F5, but it has sold and I cant seem to find another. I think someone above said "stop worrying about this is better than that, it will never stop", and I think thats sound advice. For my level of riding, sounds like any of the them are gonna be fine. I think Im gonna go with the Rockhopper disc comp. The 2010 model is like 699. Time to stop talking about it and do it. If I need to upgrade later, than so be it. Thanks for all your help and encouragement everyone! I'll be sure to get a pic the first time out!


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## AMACHADO5501 (May 26, 2010)

ron gray said:


> Thanks for all the advice folks. I was really leaning toward the Cannondale F5, but it has sold and I cant seem to find another. I think someone above said "stop worrying about this is better than that, it will never stop", and I think thats sound advice. For my level of riding, sounds like any of the them are gonna be fine. I think Im gonna go with the Rockhopper disc comp. The 2010 model is like 699. Time to stop talking about it and do it. If I need to upgrade later, than so be it. Thanks for all your help and encouragement everyone! I'll be sure to get a pic the first time out!


Hey Ron Congrats on making the decision on biking for health. I am also a big guy who weighs around 300lbs. I was looking for different things in bikes (Brands/disc or no disc etc...) One thing i failed to look at was how I FELT on the bike. I was leaning towards Specialized or Trek but ended up with a Jamis because of how I felt on the bike and how it handled. Ride a few, even brands that you did not consider you may be surprised. :thumbsup:


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

Hi Ron,

You seriously need to take advice from people is a similar situation.

Skinny people offer advice that is relevant for them, but generally do not understand what needs to be taken into account.

I used to break on average 1 component a ride while learning, and you have 100lb on me!

The clyde forum is generally for beginners who are overweight, the threads in there are gold for you.

Only take advice from people who are obviously Clydes, good hints are name (i.e. mine of giant or picture MikeCito has a picture of a clyde...well ti looks more like a shire to me, but horses are not my strong point).

Not all the advice above received was good, not all was bad.

The getting a stronger fork than a dart was a good tip.
It is not just weight, it is power. If I push hard I can fold over a SRAM cassette and snap a normal chain, skinnies would think of that. They would probably not consider the fact that the force down the chain would pull the rear triangle to the right missaligning the frame and causing the gear to shift.

Hands up skinnies who thought of that one =-)

29ers are nicer, but in fashion so expensive and out of your budget.

Aim to get something designed to be abused, it will be stronger. 
If anyone mentions choosing something lighter, hit them so they do not make the mistake again.

Someone up there said 29ers accelerate slower, compared to the spare 200lb, that wheel inertia is negligible.

On the bright side, since I have been riding weight has fallen off me, fitness has soared, apatite has dropped and I look a lot better too.

I have gone from top end obese to below average fat level in 3 years.

Those fat measuring weighing scales are good too, don't concentrate on weight, when you get stronger you will weigh more, but your fat drops.


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## Biohazard74 (Jul 16, 2009)

AMACHADO5501 said:


> Hey Ron Congrats on making the decision on biking for health. I am also a big guy who weighs around 300lbs. I was looking for different things in bikes (Brands/disc or no disc etc...) One thing i failed to look at was how I FELT on the bike. I was leaning towards Specialized or Trek but ended up with a Jamis because of how I felt on the bike and how it handled. Ride a few, even brands that you did not consider you may be surprised. :thumbsup:


Great advice ! :thumbsup:


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## Blksocks (Dec 22, 2009)

cdubb said:


> I'll second that. I've only started riding since I picked up my '09 Tassajara weeks ago. I can see the weight loss in my face and my waist is slimming some. I try to get out everyday after work for a quick 7mi ride. Its not much, but it gets me off the couch until the weekend comes.


If more people did this then there wouldn't be so many stupid treadmill commercials!


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## Biohazard74 (Jul 16, 2009)

Btw on the Clydes forum I have seen mentioned a Kona that is very strongly built especially for the bigger rider like yourself. Keep your eyes open for that bike if you go on that forum.Good luck man


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## sanjuro (Sep 29, 2004)

One thing you have to be careful with salespeople is they tend to push you into bikes they like or own, not what you need.

The other thing is that there is a tendency to gauge heavier guys as taller guys.

The 29er is a fine bike, and I am about to buy my 2nd one this year, but there is no advantage for a beginner rider, particularly a heavier one.

As a beginner, you are looking for an easy bike to learn on; and as a heavier guy, you want a stronger bike. You get that with a 26 inch wheeled bike.

For beginners, things like standover height and maneuverability are critical. You get that on a smaller wheeled bike. 29ers will fit the taller guys a little better, but 6'0 is a stock Large in any bike.

As for being stronger, the 29er wheel is weaker than the 26 inch wheel because it is bigger. Take BMX wheels at 20". Riders do 10 foot drops to flat without suspension. 

You also have a wider variety of tires, so you could run more flat resistant, even a wider tire (that your frame/fork will allow).


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

Well, I couldn't pull the trigger. Was standing in the bike shop, and just had this feeling that I would regret purchasing a bike if I didn't compare all of the local offerings first. I've only test rode a couple...I need more data to make a decision, and it took the ride to the bike store for me to understand evidently. I found another bike shop a few miles from where I work...I'm gonna stop tomorrow and test ride a couple, specifically a Kona Hoss if available. Since I'm opening my options ( and probably my budget), any suggestion on forks, rims, brakes, derailers, etc that I should look for or avoid? I'll be creating a spreadsheet, so no bit of data is worthless! I really appreciate all the help everyone...it's folks like you that makes these type of forums so wonderful!


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## Biohazard74 (Jul 16, 2009)

That's it ! The Kona Hoss ! I have heard a lot of great things about that bike from bigger guys.


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## Brewboy74 (Mar 6, 2005)

Take advise from everyone. Just understand their point of view. Just because someone is a "skinny" as cavegiant puts it doesn't mean they dont have sound advice. So let's not make this an us versus them thing. Take your time with the purchase you will be glad you did. Konas are nice bikes.


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## upNdown (Jan 12, 2004)

I'm with you brother. Quitting smoking really is so much easier than losing weight. The reason is, all you have to do to quit smoking is to not do something - you don't smoke. You don't buy cigarettes, you don't hang out with smokers, and no matter how bad the urge is, you won't smoke. Losing weight is much harder because you have to do something - you have to excercise. And you can't just not eat, because you have to eat to survive, and there's always food in your house, so the whole process is so much more difficult than not smoking. So I'm with you.
I haven't had to deal with the hurdle you have; at my biggest I was probably only 40 pounds overweight, so I can't relate to your level of hugeness. But I do know that riding is fun, even down the street. And when you get to the level of zipping down single track, you'll wonder what you've been wasting your life on up to this point. 
So I'm pretty sure you're doing the right thing. You're getting good advice; I think the fork considerations are most important; I can't help thinking you might be best off on a beefy dirt jump style bike with a burly fork and a thru-axle. Or even a rigid fork, as others have suggested. Whatever you get, make sure it isn't flexy or undersprung. I just took a look at the kona hoss and it looks good to me. 
Get a bike and start having fun!


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## Marcster (Apr 28, 2010)

upNdown said:


> So I'm pretty sure you're doing the right thing. You're getting good advice; I think the fork considerations are most important; I can't help thinking you might be best off on a beefy dirt jump style bike with a burly fork and a thru-axle. Or even a rigid fork, as others have suggested. Whatever you get, make sure it isn't flexy or undersprung. I just took a look at the kona hoss and it looks good to me.
> Get a bike and start having fun!


I agree with regards to a full-rigid. Based on what I've read, the _*biggest *_complaint that people have with entry level (sub-$750) bikes is the fork, usually that it's too flexy.

A full-rigid bike would eliminate that problem. However, since suspension forks are all the rage, most bike manufacturers seem to limit their full rigid offering(s) to a single low-end model where they decontent the bike as much as possible -- if they even have a full-rigid option.

For instance, the full-rigid Jamis Trail XR is bottom of the lineup and comes with cheap plastic pedals. While I was at a Jamis dealer a few months ago a tall skinny college kid brought his Trail XR in because he had cracked both of his pedals during his two months of ownership (they were missing "chunks" of plastic). The shop replaced his pedals with metal pedals at a reduced price off the price tag. _Now, *don't* infer this to be a damning of Jamis bikes as I'm sure they are as nice as every other major brand _(my one neighbor is _die-hard_ Jamis), but I _just _wanted to point out that full-rigid bikes tend to be built for a price point, in this case the Trail XR is $300 MSRP.

Ron, one option would be to buy the bike that speaks to you, knowing that if the fork tends to be too flexy for your liking, you (or your local LBS) can swap that out for a full-rigid fork. You could either sell the full-suspension fork on eBay (because the fork will be an upgrade for someone), or just hang on to it for the time when you get closer to your weight goal and can switch back. As your addiction progresses, you also might leave the rigid fork on and use it more as a rails-to-trails bike and get something with even better components than what you buy now for use as your regular mountain bike.

*A full-rigid fork will be about $50 - $150 for steel* (not including installation by your LBS unless you do that yourself.) Of course you can go nuts and spend $300+ for a carbon fiber fork, but that's *really *unnecessary.

Though aluminum gets all the hype, steel has a nice ability to soak up bumps and thumbs where aluminum cannot.


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## Marcster (Apr 28, 2010)

One style of frame that I think you'd specifically want to *avoid* would be the mixte (pronounced as "MIXty" or "MEExt" depending on who you talk to). It's a unisex frame, designed to be a comprimise between a traditional men's diamond shape frame and the low step-over height of a women's bike frame.

A mixte frame bike is not as structurally rigid or as strong as a regular mountain bike frame. Assuming that you do not have any issues with the range of motion of your hips (physically getting on a bike), there is no reason that I can think of to go with a mixte frame.

Now mixte frames aren't incredibly popular, especially in mountain bikes, but they are our there and I just wanted to make you aware... A traditional diamond frame is the way to go...

More info on mixte:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Step-through_frame#Mixte

This is a mixte frame:


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## bharris601 (Feb 23, 2007)

The best advice I can give you is if and when you do get a bike is to not give up. The first time I went riding on a real trail it just about killed me. I had to walk lots, and I didn't even come close to completing it. Well after 4 weeks of pushing myself to go out riding (around house and on trails I can now complete the 4 mile trail without needing a break. 

Just for some background about me, I am an ex smoker who ended up having a heart attack at the age of 27. It almost killed me and I had to have stents put in. Right now my current weight is around 270 but hopefully that will change soon. 

Right now I ride a Hardrock 29 sport that I really like riding but my only complaint is the fork and it looks like I'm going to have to spend about an extra $400 for an upgrade that can handle my weight.

Best advice from me right now is to just keep riding.


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## sanjuro (Sep 29, 2004)

Marcster said:


> One style of frame that I think you'd specifically want to *avoid* would be the mixte (pronounced as "MIXty" or "MEExt" depending on who you talk to). It's a unisex frame, designed to be a comprimise between a traditional men's diamond shape frame and the low step-over height of a women's bike frame.
> 
> A mixte frame bike is not as structurally rigid or as strong as a regular mountain bike frame. Assuming that you do not have any issues with the range of motion of your hips (physically getting on a bike), there is no reason that I can think of to go with a mixte frame.
> 
> ...


I wouldn't worry about mixte frames. They are extremely uncommon today.

My guess is that every shop guy under the age of 30 will not know what a mixte frame is unless the shop specializes in custom steel frames.

But given the need for more standover height in mountain biking, many frames have lower top tubes and some kind of seat tube strut.


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

Well, Im running into a new challenge...finding bikes to test ride. Wanted to look at a Cannondale F5/F4/F3...none to be found. Called every Kona dealer listed in a 100 mile radius to test ride a Hoss...none to be found. They exist, but would have to be ordered, and EVERY bike shop wants me to commit to the purchase, so that doesnt work. They replaced it with the Five 0, with lists for $1300.00..same deal to ride one of those. Rock Hopper Expert? Nope. It seems to be slim pickins out there for bikes, and no one seems to be willing to order without a commitment. Im guessing part is due to the economy and part is due to the new models coming in. Regardless of reason, Im getting discouraged in that even uping my budget to a 1000 dollars or so, I cant find many quality bikes available for purchase. Frustrating to say the least. Any other quality brands I should consider before giving up and waiting until all the new models are out?


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## Marcster (Apr 28, 2010)

ron gray said:


> Well, Im running into a new challenge...finding bikes to test ride. Wanted to look at a Cannondale F5/F4/F3...none to be found. Called every Kona dealer listed in a 100 mile radius to test ride a Hoss...none to be found. They exist, but would have to be ordered, and EVERY bike shop wants me to commit to the purchase, so that doesnt work. They replaced it with the Five 0, with lists for $1300.00..same deal to ride one of those. Rock Hopper Expert? Nope. It seems to be slim pickins out there for bikes, and no one seems to be willing to order without a commitment. Im guessing part is due to the economy and part is due to the new models coming in. Regardless of reason, Im getting discouraged in that even uping my budget to a 1000 dollars or so, I cant find many quality bikes available for purchase. Frustrating to say the least. *Any other quality brands I should consider before giving up and waiting until all the new models are out?*


Jamis bikes strike a nice balance between price point and equipment levels. They aren't the flashiest bike out there but they seem to offer a bike in every subcategory.

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/hardtails/index.html

Your money will likely go the farthest when you are buying a bike off the showroom floor from a dealer that is motivated to move it. The 2011 models are going to be coming in and many dealers have 2010 models laying around or even some 2009s.

-------------

Try going to Google Maps, entering your address and doing a "search nearby" for the word bicycle. It might bring up a bicycle shop or two that you weren't aware of.


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

The issue seems to be the 29er...Ive had 3 different shops today tell me that the 26er is all but dead in the mountain biking scene. Seems like a self-fulfilling prophecy if all you stock is 29er bikes, no?

Found 2 others shops to look at tomorrow that sells Giant, Raleigh, Bianchi, DK, Diamondback, GT, Schwinn, and Sun. Are any of those worth their salt?


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## Brewboy74 (Mar 6, 2005)

Giant bianchi and GT (of they are selling the high end bike shop stuff) are worth looking at.


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## Biohazard74 (Jul 16, 2009)

I have a Giant and I love it. When I was test riding bikes bout a year ago I test rode the Raleigh Mojave 29'er and think it was awesome. And from the looks of the frame it seemed like it could handle the biggest riders. Thick tubing etc. GT's are good bikes I hear but I have no experience with them. If you are not sure about what you are getting my advice will be don't get it. I say wait until the new models come out and make sure what you get is perfect for you. I myself am a die hard Giant fan but that's me. Everyone on here will swear by what they themselves own etc. Your job is to find what works for you. What you are comfortable on etc. But in reality all the bike brands you mentioned make descent bikes. Whoever tell you that this brand is better than this brand are the people to not listen to imo. Basically when you set a pricepoint you usually get very close qualities from all the brands. Just something to ponder. Good luck


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## Wadman (Mar 23, 2010)

Ron, I can feel your pain. Im about 210 and 6ft tall. I ride a Rockhopper comp disc 26 and love it. Dont get caught up in all the opinions everyone gives you. I will tell you that my disc brakes feel kind of grabby. I think its because of my weight. You dont need all that crap to get started. Just get on CraigsList and find you a good used bike in a 19 or large frame and go have fun. All the hype can get in your pocket.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Wadman said:


> Ron, I can feel your pain. Im about 210 and 6ft tall. I ride a Rockhopper comp disc 26 and love it. Dont get caught up in all the opinions everyone gives you. I will tell you that my disc brakes feel kind of grabby. I think its because of my weight. You dont need all that crap to get started. Just get on CraigsList and find you a good used bike in a 19 or large frame and go have fun. All the hype can get in your pocket.


Your disc brakes are "grabby" because they lack modulation .


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## sanjuro (Sep 29, 2004)

BTW, Ron, believe it or not, this is the END of the 2010 season for manufacturers. 2011 bikes are coming out shortly.

So there tends to be a shortfall of most models. 

I would not commit to any prepurchase. This is a bike shop, not the BMW dealer. Be serious about what you want, then push back about trying before buying.

Otherwise, just mention to them there is a company called BikesDirect...


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## Brewboy74 (Mar 6, 2005)

Stay away from craig's list. All you will do is over pay for a used possibly abused outdated bike. Mountain bike technology tends to evolve very quickly more so than road bikes. Going that route you get no frame or parts warranty. Service on the bike which it will most likely need will be more expensive. This year almost all bike companies are sold out or back ordered on a lot of there stuff. It is frustrating but it will be worth the wait. Being patientis the key.


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## Marcster (Apr 28, 2010)

ron gray said:


> The issue seems to be the 29er...Ive had 3 different shops today tell me that the 26er is all but dead in the mountain biking scene. Seems like a self-fulfilling prophecy if all you stock is 29er bikes, no?


Of course they could be telling you that, trying to get you to buy the 29ers they have in stock.









The 26" wheeled is far from dead. The 29er is the latest thing, but if you look at manufacturer's offerings, I'd say that only 20% are 29ers


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## Brewboy74 (Mar 6, 2005)

Any good bike shop will order a bike for you to test ride. After all we are not talking about a 6,000 bike here. These are entry to low level bikes. Don't feel guilty about asking them to order these for you. It's not a big deal for a shop of any size. As the other poster said be serious and ask for what you want. Just make sure you go in and give the bike and good test ride.


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## Wadman (Mar 23, 2010)

So how do I get them to modulate?


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

Can anyone give me any feedback on a Giant Xtc-1? I think the specs look ok, but I'm not sure.


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

ron gray said:


> Any other quality brands I should consider before giving up and waiting until all the new models are out?


What about a Giant Yukon? Not the FX model at $1100, but the standard $650 variety. It has very strong dual walled rims...stock...comes with decent stock components, has a heavy duty aluminum frame, not very light but very rugged and well made frames.

The Rincon is also a great bike worthy of upgrading as parts wear out and is about $500 I think. As far as the fork is concerned, I am 185 lbs so you have me by about 160, but a lot of your weight...probably 70%...is going to be on the back end of the bike, so the front has to take up...what...40 pounds more? Big deal. Hit a big bump and you have several hundred pounds of force on that shock from a guy like me. Both bikes have disk brakes which will slow you down well, and are well made. You ain't gonna be cross countrying it for a while, but have a pace and goal in mind to maybe get to that point. Both the bikes are readily available at a lot of stores...maybe even yours.

Good luck. :thumbsup:


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

BTW, that XTC-1 is a lightweight higher end bike...I picked one up 2 days ago at the LBS...might be #25-26. You may want a little heavier duty frame at this point my friend. :thumbsup:


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

TwinBlade said:


> BTW, that XTC-1 is a lightweight higher end bike...I picked one up 2 days ago at the LBS...might be #25-26. You may want a little heavier duty frame at this point my friend. :thumbsup:


Crap! That appeared to be my best choice. Im starting to think that I should just buy a lower end bike and upgrade, or just build my own. Im looking at bikes that cost 1200-1300, essentially doubling my budget, and Im still not convinced that the kit that comes with these bikes is THAT much better to be Ron-proof. I just want a bike that doesnt fall apart on me, and one would think that 1000 dollars could get that done.


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## Brewboy74 (Mar 6, 2005)

You won't come up with a perfect bike for your situation. As bikes go up in price they tend to go down in weight. Now weight does equate to strenght either. An ideal bike for you in my opinion would be an all mountain bike. This type is designed to be really strong and tough and not terribly light. These are probably going to be out of your price range. A couple of the bigger guys at my shop ride Gary Fisher Roscoe. These are pricey though and they are not making them next year. So perhaps do some looking at low end all mountain bikes.


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

ron gray said:


> Crap! That appeared to be my best choice. Im starting to think that I should just buy a lower end bike and upgrade, or just build my own. Im looking at bikes that cost 1200-1300, essentially doubling my budget, and Im still not convinced that the kit that comes with these bikes is THAT much better to be Ron-proof. I just want a bike that doesnt fall apart on me, and one would think that 1000 dollars could get that done.


Rule of thumb...pay more for less. Usually less means weight, but with advancements in engineering, often lighter parts are equal, or close to it, in strength. A lot of that part comes with the skill of the rider, who knows how to handle a bike, how it responds to his/her movements and they are better at not crashing it than say you or me. 

Get a 19-20" Yukon or Rincon and go ENJOY YOURSELF first and foremost. The bikes will handle your body, won't break the bank and will be decent frames to upgrade when you knock off 30-40 lbs of grinding it out. Bikes need to handle a lot of stress on trails...more than what you will put on it with a few extra pounds on the road and light dirt trails. A lot of guys with trail bikes hit rocks, stumps, wash outs, ruts and everything else that stresses...momentarily...a bike far beyond what you will do by simply riding it for the pleasure and exercise. Matter of fact, I would go find a $500 bike that fits you well, buy it and ride it. In this competitive market, you really cannot go wrong with much of anything. It is like a good gun, good bow or good knife. They will all perform, regardless of brand, in skilled hands. The more you think it over, the harder it gets to stay happily motivated. Sometimes, being impulsive is not a bad thing...just do it bro. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Marcster (Apr 28, 2010)

TwinBlade said:


> Matter of fact, I would go find a $500 bike that fits you well, buy it and ride it. In this competitive market, you really cannot go wrong with much of anything. It is like a good gun, good bow or good knife. They will all perform, regardless of brand, in skilled hands. The more you think it over, the harder it gets to stay happily motivated. Sometimes, being impulsive is not a bad thing...just do it bro. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


*I'm with TwinBlade...* Don't worry so much about which bike is "better" because at $500 or above, they'll all get the job done.

It's not like the OP is looking to jump through rings of fire or 12' drops. We're talking about road riding and light trails now and more aggressive trails as Ron's weight goes down and his skills go up.

*Hell, pick a dumb reason for a final selection*: the shop is the closest, the shop will give you a discount on accessories, you have a good rapport with the salesperson, you like the color of the bike the most, the tread on the tires is especially cool, etc.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Don't worry too much about test-riding the wrong component level of a bike. For example the base model Rockhopper, Rockhopper Expert, and Rockhopper SL series bikes are all on Rockhopper frames, so if you find your size but it's the wrong component level for what you want, you can order the size and model you do want with confidence. Many brands share geometry across frame models too, but you'd want to do your research before actually switching model.

Trek also makes it easy to figure out when they switch frames - the first digit of the model name refers to the frame. So all 4-series bikes share a frame, all 6-series bikes share a frame, etc. Fisher and Cannondale can be, or at least have been, a little harder to predict. Both of those companies' offerings can be broken into series too, but they don't indicate when they switch frames with the way they name their bikes.

I've had a number of friends see a fair amount of success in losing weight and getting healthier by riding bikes. They haven't had frame problems, although going off-road changes the game a lot. (Are you going off-road? I don't see anything one way or the other in your posts...) It's worth paying some special attention to your wheels when you buy the bike, though, and learning to true them yourself - actually a very easy task for anyone who's not mechanically inept.

Anyway, keep phoning around, but don't worry about the trim level on bikes that go by series - if you like it and it's out of your price range, offer your budget. If the shop doesn't take you up on it, which they often do if it's not ridiculous, you can still have them order you the one for the price you're comfortable with.


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## Biohazard74 (Jul 16, 2009)

TwinBlade said:


> What about a Giant Yukon? Not the FX model at $1100, but the standard $650 variety. It has very strong dual walled rims...stock...comes with decent stock components, has a heavy duty aluminum frame, not very light but very rugged and well made frames.
> . :thumbsup:


Wow !!!! $1100 for a Giant Yukon FX? Where is that? Here in South Florida you can get a brand new Yukon FX for $799. That was my 1st bike and i was weighing 245 when i bought it and i beat the crap out of it and kept asking for more. I recomend it especially for bigger riders:thumbsup:

http://cycleworldmiami.com/product/giant-yukon-fx-58418-1.htm


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

Thanks for the correction. I dunno where I got that number from. clearly I had another model in mind or something. :lol: :thumbsup:


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## Biohazard74 (Jul 16, 2009)

Np man. I was like WOW we have it pretty good here in Miami lol


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

What are your thoughts on a GT Avalanche 1.0?
2010 GT Avalanche 1.0 Disc Mountain Bike

BOTTOM BRACKET: Shimano Octalink cartridge sealed	
BRAKES: Tektro Auriga comp, hydraulic, dual piston, cold forged	
CASSETTE: SRAM Nine speed index cassette 11-32	
CHAIN: Shimano HG-53 Nine Speed	
CRANKSET: Shimano FCM-442, with octalink interface	
FORK: Rock Shox Tora 302 with 100 mm travel, mag lowers, lock out and rebound adjust	
FRAME: GT NEW Triple Triangle design 6061 butted aluminum with Hydro formed top and downtube, zero stack headtube. Disc compatible with removeable der. Hanger	
FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano Deore	
GRIPS/TAPE: GT Lockdown dual density with allen key fixing bolts	
HANDLEBAR: GT Mtn Riser, 15 mm rise, 6061 heat treated, 31.8 mm clamp	
HEADSET: Tange system for 1 1/8"	
LEVERS: Tektro	
PEDALS: ATB Aluminum body, Steel cage, toe clip compatible	
REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano SLX Shadow	
REAR SHOCK: NA	
SADDLE: WTB Pure V, with stitched cover and protective corners	
SEATPOST: Alloy Micro adjust 31.6mm	
SHIFTERS: Shimano Deore 9 speed separate	
STEM: GT ATB, threadless 25 degree rise with four bolt alum CNC face plate for 31.8mm	
TIRES: Kenda Nevegal, 26 x 2.1	
WHEELSET: Rims: WTB SX-24 ATB black anodized; Front Hub: Alloy QR for Disc; Rear Hub: Aluminum QR sealed mechanism 9 speed cassette for Disc	
2010 GT Avalanche 1.0 Disc Mountain Bike


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

That bike is all business. It has a great rear derailleur (which does most of the work anyways), more than ample brakes and front suspension and, really, GT is a great bike.

Good price on it?


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

$849, but there is some thing about 75 off lowest price, but thats on for internet only...but they have a local store too??? I dont know.

Good news! I just got an email from a guy in Columbus that has an 18" Kona Hoss available for $850! Finally found one to test, and at a good price too! 

So it looks like its down to the Kona Hoss, GT Avalanche 1.0, or the Rockhopper Comp Disc....all between 700 and 850. Providing the fit was on par with all 3, what would you buy if in my shoes? No one had better say arch supports either... 

Kona Specs

Frame	7005 aluminum
Fork	Marzocchi Dirt Jumper 2, 100mm travel
Crankset	FSA Step Up, 44/32/22
Bottom bracket	RPM ISIS DH
Shifters	Shimano Deore
Front derailleur	Shimano Deore
Rear derailleur	Shimano XT Shadow
Rear cogs	Shimano Deore , 11-32, 9-speed
Number of gears	27
Brakes	Shimano M575 hydraulic disc
Brake levers	Shimano M575 hydraulic
Rims	Sun Black Eye
Front hub	Formula DH 20mm, 32h
Rear hub	Shimano M525 disc, 32h
Tires	Maxxis Ignitor, 26x2.3
Handlebar	Kona XC/BC Riser
Stem	Kona XC/BC
Seat post	Kona OB
Saddle	WTB Speed V Sport SE
Pedals	Kona JackShit Deluxe
Headset	TH
Chain	KMC HG53

Rockhopper Comp Disc Specs

FRAME
Specialized M4 fully manipulated alloy frame, fully butted, ORE DT, externally relieved HT, forged dropouts w/ replaceable derailleur hanger, disc only
FORK
RockShox Dart 3 SL, 80/100mm, 1 piece magnesium lower, alloy steerer, adj. reb. damping w/ LO and preload adj., size-specific spring rates, disc only
HEADSET
1-1/8" threadless, loose ball
STEM
3D forged alloy, 7 degree rise, 31.8mm clamp
HANDLEBARS
Butted alloy riserbar, 25mm rise, 660mm wide, 8 degree back sweep, 7 degree up sweep
GRIPS
Specialized Enduro, dual compound Kraton, no flange, 131mm
FRONT BRAKE
Avid BB5, mechanical disc, 160mm G2 Clean Sweep rotor
REAR BRAKE
Avid BB5, mechanical disc, 160mm G2 Clean Sweep rotor
BRAKE LEVERS
Avid FR-5, alloy, two-finger linear pull
FRONT DERAILLEUR
Shimano Altus, 34.9mm clamp
REAR DERAILLEUR
SRAM X-5, mid cage
SHIFT LEVERS
SRAM X4-R trigger
CASSETTE
SRAM PG-830, 8-speed, 11-32t
CHAIN
KMC X8 w/ reuseable Missing Link
CRANKSET
SR SunTour, Octalink spline
CHAINRINGS
42S x 32S x 22S replaceable
BOTTOM BRACKET
Shimano BB-ES25, Octalink spline, cartridge bearing, 68mm x 118mm
PEDALS
Steel cage, composite body, 9/16"
RIMS
Alex RHD 26", pinned, alloy double wall, eyelets, 28h front and 32h rear
FRONT HUB
Forged alloy, hi/low flange, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount, 32h
REAR HUB
Forged alloy, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount, cassette, 32h
SPOKES
2mm (14g) stainless
FRONT TIRE
Specialized Fast Trak LK Sport, 26x2.0", 60TPI, wire bead
REAR TIRE
Specialized Fast Trak LK Sport, 26x2.0", 60TPI, wire bead
INNER TUBES
Schraeder valve
SADDLE
Specialized Rockhopper XC, Body Geometry, 143mm width, front and rear bumpers
SEATPOST
Alloy two bolt, 12.5mm offset, micro adjust, 30.9mm
SEAT BINDER
Forged alloy QR, brass washer
NOTES
Chain stay protector, reflectors, clear coat, owners manual


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

Are ya able to put your butt in any of those saddles? If 2 of the 3 feel just as good, get the one that has the better components...unless pink is the color of the higher component bike. Then I say screw the components and get the other bike.


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

Ive test rode the Rockhopper, and I just found the place that sells the GT, and literally just got the email from the guy who is selling the Kona, but hes like a 2 hour drive from me. But Im thinking I'll have a chance to test all 3. Problem is, Im not sure what the better components are for sure, so any help there would be appreciated.


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## Biohazard74 (Jul 16, 2009)

Dude on a serious note. Screw the components for now. Seriously, get the one you feel the best on. What's the point of getting the best components if the bike itself doesn't feel perfect when you're on it? Screw that! Get the one you are most comfortable on and then worry about components. All bikes in similar price ranges are very similar as far as components go. If one has something better than another one of them I'm positive it makes up in another department. Its all marketing to keep the bike business going. And it works. So for now just worry about getting the one that FEELS the best.


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

The Kona and GT have better stuff hands down.


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

Biohazard74 said:


> Dude on a serious note. Screw the components for now. Seriously, get the one you feel the best on. What's the point of getting the best components if the bike itself doesn't feel perfect when you're on it? Screw that! Get the one you are most comfortable on and then worry about components. All bikes in similar price ranges are very similar as far as components go. If one has something better than another one of them I'm positive it makes up in another department. Its all marketing to keep the bike business going. And it works. So for now just worry about getting the one that FEELS the best.


He did say "all being equal on feel" though...


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## Biohazard74 (Jul 16, 2009)

TwinBlade said:


> He did say "all being equal on feel" though...


Yeah my bad. Imo the Kona ftw


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

TwinBlade said:


> The Kona and GT have better stuff hands down.


I thought so, but the confirmation is much appreciated. I'll hopefully be able to test ride both this weekend and make a decision. Im actually a little mad at myself for taking this long, as Ive missed some good riding weather here in Ohio....but I know its the right thing to do.

I want to thank all of you for not only helping me with my questions, but for your kindness and encouragement. This board is blessed with lots of good folks and has built a community to be proud of, and am appreciative of your welcoming me. I hope I can find away to give back as much as Ive recieved. Thanks so much!


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## Biohazard74 (Jul 16, 2009)

ron gray said:


> I hope I can find away to give back as much as Ive recieved. Thanks so much!


 pics of the bike when you get it. And pics of it when you dirty it


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

Biohazard74 said:


> pics of the bike when you get it. And pics of it when you dirty it


What the man said...:thumbsup:

I am gonna tell you flat out, that saddle, on both (I say both because you will probably narrow it to the Kona and GT) is gonna kick your butt for a few days. Your butt is gonna hurt after a few miles and that is just the way it is. Get your sit bones (the bones at the base of your butt...real narrow spaced, weight doesn't matter...you have them in the same place as me) conditioned and calloused up a bit. It is what it is and you don't want to be putting a 5 lb gel comfort saddle on there. It's one of those "man up" things ya gotta do...just saying bud. 

You'll get used to it.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

TwinBlade said:


> What the man said...:thumbsup:
> 
> I am gonna tell you flat out, that saddle, on both (I say both because you will probably narrow it to the Kona and GT) is gonna kick your butt for a few days. Your butt is gonna hurt after a few miles and that is just the way it is. Get your sit bones (the bones at the base of your butt...real narrow spaced, weight doesn't matter...you have them in the same place as me) conditioned and calloused up a bit. It is what it is and you don't want to be putting a 5 lb gel comfort saddle on there. It's one of those "man up" things ya gotta do...just saying bud.
> 
> You'll get used to it.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:


I gotta be honest, I never thought Id be accepting of another man telling me my butts gonna hurt and that Ill get used to it, but Im taking it surprisingly well.  Appreciate the advice.


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

Hey, as a happily married man of nearly 14 years, I am confident enough in who I am to offer such advice. :lol: :lol::thumbsup:


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## Biohazard74 (Jul 16, 2009)

Homos !


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## Biohazard74 (Jul 16, 2009)

lol


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## upNdown (Jan 12, 2004)

TwinBlade said:


> BTW, that XTC-1 is a lightweight higher end bike...I picked one up 2 days ago at the LBS...might be #25-26. You may want a little heavier duty frame at this point my friend. :thumbsup:


No doubt. Remember the first generation XTC NRS? (Different bike of course, but same level.) They had a weight limit of 180 lbs and were cracking under less than that.


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## upNdown (Jan 12, 2004)

TwinBlade said:


> Are ya able to put your butt in any of those saddles? If 2 of the 3 feel just as good, get the one that has the better components...unless pink is the color of the higher component bike. Then I say screw the components and get the other bike.


Here's my thought - don't spend money for higher end drivetrain components. You weigh 350; you'll be using this bike initially for pedaling on the streets - components aren't going to make a darn bit of difference for pedaling on the streets. 
When you become a lean mean riding machine and start hammering on trails, you're still going to be 320, 300, 280 for a while. At that weight, you're going to be ripping drivetrain components to shreds on a regular basis, if you're riding hard. So don't waste money on higher end ones.


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

That's about as much sense as I have seen in this thread so far. I just got back from 11 miles on a very technical trail, bounced off a rock (bad line and a big flipping rock for that 100mm fork to handle) into another rock with my front tire and endo'd right over the handle bars. I have had many other things feel better than that. Glad I didn't break anything on my bike, but it makes ya think about high dollar components that are taking a beating for sure...


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

Well, after about 300 miles of driving in a truck with broken AC, I now have a shiny new black Kona Hoss sitting in my garage! Biggest step has been made! I will now start new threads tormenting you with questions regarding helmets, rims, forks, bile computers, gloves, pumps, racks, locks, tools, etc. 

Thanks again everyone!


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## Brewboy74 (Mar 6, 2005)

Congrats get her out on the road and start enjoying that baby.


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## hardwarz (Jun 12, 2009)

My suggestion is.... don't get new rims, forks, or other bike parts untill something breaks. Ride it for at least a couple hundred miles and then figure out if you need new saddle, grips, shorter or longer stem or pedals.

Bike computer - I just grabbed whatever was cheap. I didn't need much functionality beyond speed, distance and time.

Gloves - I just use mechanics work gloves. lol

Racks - I have some cheapies, but I need something decent. I'm still looking for a good one.

Pumps - I just bought whatever was cheap.


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## berry79 (Jun 10, 2010)

Congrats on the purchase. Now you can get and ride.


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

Hoping to score a helmet tomorrow at lunch, and my first few rides will be around the neighborhood to get back in the swing of things, but I'll be on the paved trails in no time! :thumbsup: 

Im not looking to upgrade anything yet...Im just gonna start researching now so when stuff does start to go south, I'll be ready to pull the trigger on the replacement stuff. Only immediate need is a helmet and will prob pick up a computer just to track my progress.

As requested, here is a quick pic of my new purchase. I sure could of used a kickstand...


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

ron gray said:


> Well, after about 300 miles of driving in a truck with broken AC, I now have a shiny new black Kona Hoss sitting in my garage! Biggest step has been made! I will now start new threads tormenting you with questions regarding helmets, rims, forks, bile computers, gloves, pumps, racks, locks, tools, etc.
> 
> Thanks again everyone!


Congrats! I use a Cateye Enduro 8 for a computer. I don't care what anyone else thinks about wired vs wireless, but it is CHEAP, wired and it rocks. HEAVY duty wire, easily ziptied to the front brake cable so it is inconspicuous, and easy to install and set up. I did need to take an old innertube and cut small pieces off to "shim" the pick up module closer to the spokes.

A GIRO Indicator is a good cheap helmut if it fits you comfortably, I have a Bontrager frame pump with built in PSI gauge that was about $30 and lightweight and compact, TOPEAK makes a FANTASTIC saddle pack that will hold an extra tube, bike multi tool, chain tool, bandaides, patch kit etc. As far as locks, just remember...you spent several hundred dollars on that bike. Don't skimp out and get a $10 cable. It is kind of like building a $4000 Alienware computer and having it plugged into an $8 "surge protector" from Walmart...get my meaning?


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

My throat is a pretty good bile computer. It tells me when I've eaten too much before a hard aerobic effort.

I don't have any bike computers anymore either. While they can occasionally be helpful for navigating, I found that the training data they yield is pretty much useful, even on the road. If the odometer function helps you stay motivated, though, go for it. The cheap Cateye ones have always worked fine for me.

Sweet bike. Looks like it would survive World War Three.


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

Oh, I am guessing you will need to raise that seat. Put the ball of your foot on the pedal, and at the lowest downstroke, your leg should have a SLIGHT bend in it when your foot is parallel to the ground. :thumbsup:


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

As far as locks, just remember...you spent several hundred dollars on that bike. Don't skimp out and get a $10 cable. It is kind of like building a $4000 Alienware computer and having it plugged into an $8 "surge protector" from Walmart...get my meaning?

No worries...I will spend money on quality. Ive learned over the years it pays off in the long run.


My throat is a pretty good bile computer. It tells me when I've eaten too much before a hard aerobic effort.

LOL...yeah, Ive always said that if I could spell, Id be invincible. Just be happy youre getting the proofread version!  


Sweet bike. Looks like it would survive World War Three.

Thats probably not far from what it will be subjected to with my fat arse on it...:sad: 


Oh, I am guessing you will need to raise that seat. Put the ball of your foot on the pedal, and at the lowest downstroke, your leg should have a SLIGHT bend in it when your foot is parallel to the ground.

Its actually sized just right...we adjusted it at the bike shop for my test ride. Im on my tip-toes over standing over the seat.:thumbsup:


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

Sounds like you got it all covered friend.:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

AndrwSwitch said:


> I don't have any bike computers anymore either. While they can occasionally be helpful for navigating, I found that the training data they yield is pretty much *useful*,


Speaking of proof reading. I meant to say "useless." When I'm using a training schedule, I do my goals and tracking based on time and effort level. It makes up for the difference in difficulty between city road miles, country road miles, easy mountain biking and more technical mountain biking.


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## Marcster (Apr 28, 2010)

Congrats on the purchase! Now don't forget to update your profile!


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

Maiden voyage this evening! A whopping 1.5 miles! LOL, I guess I shouldn't have too high of expectations at this stage. Truth be told, I was starting to get winded at about .8 miles, but I was embarrassed with myself, so we did another lap. Tomorrow will be better!


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## Marcster (Apr 28, 2010)

ron gray said:


> Maiden voyage this evening! A whopping 1.5 miles! LOL, I guess I shouldn't have too high of expectations at this stage. Truth be told, I was starting to get winded at about .8 miles, but I was embarrassed with myself, so we did another lap. Tomorrow will be better!


Don't be too hard on yourself...








It's _much _better to start out slow than to burn yourself out by going too hard too soon and shoving the bike into the back of the garage.

It's gonna take a little time -- just keep at it!


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

Who's "we"? Having another along is always a bonus. :thumbsup:

I don't think it takes a rocket scientist to say you are the kind of guy that everyone pulls for to "git 'r dun". Your pleasant forum demeanor and honesty really helps to get a crowd backing you. I am certainly one of them.

Good on ya friend. :thumbsup:


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

TwinBlade said:


> Who's "we"? Having another along is always a bonus. :thumbsup:
> 
> I don't think it takes a rocket scientist to say you are the kind of guy that everyone pulls for to "git 'r dun". Your pleasant forum demeanor and honesty really helps to get a crowd backing you. I am certainly one of them.
> 
> Good on ya friend. :thumbsup:


LOL...we was just me and my shame for waiting so long to start taking better care of myself.

I appreciate the compliment! It's easy when your surrounded with great people. I'm confident this is the point I turn things around, and I'll owe part of my success to the awesome folks that make up MTBR!


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

Well "shame" can no longer rent a little space in your head free of charge and own ya. It is getting bumped with "git 'r dun" and that is much better company. 

Get a set of headphones and make a playlist for riding. Always a good motivator in music. :thumbsup:


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## upNdown (Jan 12, 2004)

Love it. Great looking bike. Ride, ride, ride! Yeah, 1.5 miles does sound like a joke to me, but if you strapped 170 pounds to my back, I probably couldn't do it, so what I think doesn't matter. Keep at it; love your rides, love your bike, love your pain.


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## bharris601 (Feb 23, 2007)

2 months ago 1.5 miles in my neighborhood would have me lying on my back under the ceiling fan about to die. Now I'm doing 4 plus of singletrack and the aftereffects are nowhere near as bad as that first 1.5 miles.


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

Took my skirt off and decided not to give up quite so easy today. 5 miles, with a 5 min water break in the middle. Wife went with on the second leg...man is it easier if you have someone with you. Im digging it! 

Oh yeah, my a$$ hurts...your boy needs a banana seat on his ride. LOL


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## Marcster (Apr 28, 2010)

TwinBlade said:


> Who's "we"? Having another along is always a bonus. :thumbsup:
> 
> I don't think it takes a rocket scientist to say you are the kind of guy that everyone pulls for to "git 'r dun". Your pleasant forum demeanor and honesty really helps to get a crowd backing you. I am certainly one of them.
> 
> Good on ya friend. :thumbsup:


Concurred!











ron gray said:


> Took my skirt off and decided not to give up quite so easy today. 5 miles, with a 5 min water break in the middle. Wife went with on the second leg...man is it easier if you have someone with you. Im digging it!
> 
> Oh yeah, my a$$ hurts...your boy needs a banana seat on his ride. LOL


That's the spirit!!! But can I suggest at least one more water break for that distance?!?!







It's freakin' hot out there and you don't want to be passing out or getting cramps.

Maybe a five minute total time for the breaks, but just not going too long without water.

Also, you want to be drinking lots of water throughout the day.


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## lama (Feb 25, 2006)

You're doing great, keep at it. Soreness in your nether region is normal if not accustomed to riding. It should pass. Getting a pair of bike shorts with a good chamois will help a lot as your rides get longer. I like lycra and just wear some type of regular short over it. Eventually you're gonna want to get at least a way to repair a flat, for which I carry an extra tube, CO2 inflator, and a multitool, all in a seat bag. If you have a cell phone and can call your wife for a pick up in case of a flat then this may not be necessary yet.


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## cdnxj (Feb 17, 2006)

Ron, Congrats on your purchase, it looks great! Keep it up!!

-Ride on!


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

ron gray said:


> Took my skirt off and decided not to give up quite so easy today. 5 miles, with a 5 min water break in the middle. Wife went with on the second leg...man is it easier if you have someone with you. Im digging it!
> 
> Oh yeah, my a$$ hurts...your boy needs a banana seat on his ride. LOL


Awesome man!!

LOL at the seat! :lol: :lol: Brings back fond memories of an old Schwinn I used tgo have... 

I hear ya on having someone with you. I ride the singletrack with a friend, but have no one to do the asphalt trail with. (I use my mtb for both, just swap out tires). Well yesterday, I dug out my wife's old Huffy Newport (cruiser style single speed), cleaned it off after 3 years in the basement, put new tires on and Serfas ergo grips (the foam ones were all tore up), washed it and polished all the chrome on it and had it sitting on the front porch when she got home. She had a surprised look on her face, thanked me and after she changed, asked..."Wanna go for a ride"?


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

ron gray said:


> my a$$ hurts...


That is the usual thing, if you have not been riding much before 

In the pic of your bike it looks like the nose of the saddle is pointing a little up. Not pressing on any important parts?

Have fun on your bike! But don't over-do it either. Sometimes it is better to rest a little too.


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

So Ron, where we at on all this noise here?


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

TwinBlade said:


> So Ron, where we at on all this noise here?


First week went great! I logged 14.5 miles by Thursday, and that was with my 1.5 miles on day one. I managed two different five mile days, although I cant do it without a break or two. I will say that I could tell a difference in my endurance just in that short time....I was shocked by it actually. I havent be on the bike since...but for good reason. The wife and I are vacationing in Cancun, I and I couldn't figure out how to get my bike in my carry on. 

We're hitting the gym here at least twice to ride the exercise bike just to help not lose any progress made, but Im actually mad that I have to start the whole seat pain thing over again...lol

Thanks for checking in on my progress! I figured Id give an update every couple of weeks, just as a motovational tool if nothing else...I owe you folks at least SOMETHING after all the help you provided!


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## TwinBlade (Jun 21, 2010)

Right on man! 

Enjoy the rest of your vacation.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

ron gray said:


> First week went great! I logged 14.5 miles by Thursday, and that was with my 1.5 miles on day one. I managed two different five mile days, although I cant do it without a break or two. I will say that I could tell a difference in my endurance just in that short time....I was shocked by it actually. I havent be on the bike since...but for good reason. The wife and I are vacationing in Cancun, I and I couldn't figure out how to get my bike in my carry on.
> 
> We're hitting the gym here at least twice to ride the exercise bike just to help not lose any progress made, but Im actually mad that I have to start the whole seat pain thing over again...lol


There are some adaptations the nervous system makes very quickly when someone starts exercising. That's probably what you're feeling. Of course, it facilitates having more fun on the bike, so why fight it. 

If you're at all prone to overtraining injuries, now would be a good time to figure out some mileage goals. (Or saddle time goals, doesn't really matter as long as you're riding in the same terrain most of the time.) Most people can increase by 10-15%/week without getting hurt. It's also recommended to only increase long rides by that proportion, but I don't think that's as important as long as you pay attention to your body. If you aren't injury-prone, you can probably just keep playing it by ear, at least unless you decide you want to complete an endurance event and need to up your mileage for it. I like training for things, but it's not necessarily for everybody.

Try to go for some runs or walks on the beach. More fun than being on a stationary bike, and it's good to mix things up. Or go for a swim if that stupid oil well disaster hasn't screwed that up.


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## ron gray (Jun 19, 2010)

Well, back home from vacation. Managed a couple of bouts with the recumbant (sp?) bike in the gym at the hotel. 30 minutes each with 5 minute cool downs, about 6.5 miles each go. Exercise bikes are MUCH easier than a real bike! Im sure biking in AC helps too...lol

Got my butt outta bed to ride this morning before the heat hit...only managed about 3 miles, but did it with no stopping. Ill probably ride another 3 or so this evening when it starts to cool. Im noticing that Im getting alot of numbness in my hands when I ride. Its just pavement, so I dont think its an impact thing. Any suggestions?

Also, would I be better off with some narrower tires? I have 26 x 2.35 now...seems a little wide for pavement riding. Can I get narrower tires that will still support my weight? Will I need new rims? Suggestions?


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## Marcster (Apr 28, 2010)

Ron -- you might be leaning forward a bit and putting extra pressure on your wrists. Try engaging your core muscles a bit to keep weight off your hands. Also they do make "gel" grips that you could switch to, changing grips is relatively simple.

A narrower tire would have less rolling resistance, but the wider tubes that fit in the tires you have now will keep you from getting flats.

My suggestion, _especially if you are sticking to pavement-only for the time being, _would be to go with the same width as your current tires but a more pavement-oriented tread. Still wide, but pavement-friendly. The terms "city" or "commuter" are the descriptions you should be looking for.

Though I've never bought from them, Universal Cycles has a very easy to browse tire selection:

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/index.php?category=178

Something like this would be good for the street and also hook up on rails-to-trails:










All pavement? Look at this:


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

With more narrow tires, you just have to use higher pressures in the tires. My pavement bike (AKA, Suburban Assault Vehicle) has Bontrager Hank 2.2" slicks. I can use them on some trails with firm surfaces too...

I find that my hands sometimes get numb on the pavement but never on trails. On trails the hands and arms are constantly working the bike but things are much more static on the road. There's little possibilities for changing the grip on a MTB bar but I try to make small changes during a ride anyway.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

ron gray said:


> Im noticing that Im getting alot of numbness in my hands when I ride. Its just pavement, so I dont think its an impact thing. Any suggestions?
> 
> Also, would I be better off with some narrower tires? I have 26 x 2.35 now...seems a little wide for pavement riding. Can I get narrower tires that will still support my weight? Will I need new rims? Suggestions?


I was starting to comment on tires, but I see two posters already have.

Is there a lot of weight on your hands? Numbness is often a result of that. Also, do you wear padded gloves? You might raise your handlebars or shorten your reach, to take some weight off your hands. Note that this will put more weight on your butt - if you're already getting some saddle pain, that's probably not something you want to hear.

perttime mentions being unable to change hand position on a mountain bike. You can, though, if you install a set of bar ends. They're not stylish right now, but I love mine.  I spent big chunks of yesterday's ride on 'em...

Did you decide your saddle fit and you needed to get used to it, or do you think it doesn't fit at all? You should be feeling pressure on your sit bones but not your perineum.

Between getting the fit right and improving power-to-weight ratio, it does get better.


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