# I Keep Breaking Saddles



## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

When I rode my full suspension bike all the time, I never broke a saddle. 
Now, I do almost all of my riding on my rigid fatty. I originally built it with a straight seatpost but had the saddle pretty far back, so I bought a Thomson setback post. This way, the saddle is back where I want it but the clamp grabs it within the allotted space on the rails. 
After I ride one place in particular, I find one of the rails snapped toward the rear just behind the clamp. 
I use WTB Pure V Comp saddles. Anyone have any idea if the more expensive models resist breakage any better? 
Or any other big guy friendly saddle?

I'm on my fourth one on just over two years.


----------



## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

Maybe a Brooks Flyer or B-67. I think those are good to about 275 lbs. The Brooks Flyer is the same base as the B-17. The B-67 is wider in the rear. Brooks are strung over a metal cantle plate, and you don't want to sit on that portion in the back, so it's necessary to get a wider saddle than normal.

They have heavier duty models if necessary. The B-33 is a good example. You would need a sandwich adaptor to use it with a modern seat-post.

If you decide to get a Brooks, get it from a place that has a 6 month return policy, like Wallingford Bikes, or Bike Touring News (I know the owners for BTN, great people). Both places are very good, though. And I think WB probably have more in stock.

I use a simple Brooks B-68 Imperial on my Krampus, though they are no longer made. (I'm female, so wider sit bones). It's actually a men's saddle, though it works for a lot of women.

Avoid the S or short models, they have short rails. Good for shorter people, though. 
BROOKS ENGLAND LTD. | CATALOGUE AND SHOP | SADDLES

If you are actually interested, you want a Brooks that is at least 20 mm wider than the outside distance of your sit bones, not the center to center distance. That keeps you from sitting on the metal frame.


----------



## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

Just a thought, if full suspension created cushion, maybe you should try a thud buster seat post.


----------



## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Both solid suggestions. I have a Thudbuster on my Dahon. Mostly to protect the frame from my hugeness perched atop that very long post. I have a Pure V on that too and no problems. 
I'll have a look at the Brooks saddles. I've kinda always wanted to try a Brooks. I'll let you know what I end up doing.


----------



## AllMountin' (Nov 23, 2010)

I also snap, bend, and destroy saddles. All makes and models. Usually, higher end means lighter more than stronger. I've resorted to using $10 GT takeoffs from the lbs. If it breaks, it's no big deal.


----------



## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Yeah. In the grand scheme of things, 35 bucks every 6-8 months or so is really no big deal. It just kills me to throw away an otherwise perfect saddle. 
I know they break when I go off stuff at speed and my butt is just off the seat. When the wheel touches down I hear it snap. I don't realize what it is right away until there's suddenly a creak on my bike that wasn't there before. 
The bike is 29+ right now, so a harsher ride than I'm used to.


----------



## The Butcher (Oct 16, 2012)

I ride the Pure V as well and found the chromoly rails work, but the Ti rails snap like twigs. They are too brittle and don't flex, whereas the chromoly rails tend to flex a bit without breaking. Are you breaking the chromoly rail version, or Ti version? I just got a Pure Pro that seems to be similar to the Pure V in terms of comfort, but I don't have any long term strength comments on it yet as I have only ridden it 5-10 times. I imagine it will be similar to the Pure V chromoly saddle.


----------



## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

WTB DH has larger diameter rails that still work with a Thomson post. STRONG.


----------



## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

Stand up more. You're not on a FS so you need to let your body do more of the work, especially your knees. Get your ass out of the saddle for the rough stuff, you'll ride smoother and your saddles will last longer.


----------



## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Yeah. It's the chromo rail version. 

I'll look at the downhill one and see how that looks. 

I stand quite a bit... actually, I'm only on the saddle on flat ground when I'm spinning and trying to cover ground fast. 
I believe I break the rails on fast climbs. It's probably one of those things that's just gonna happen from time to time.


----------



## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

There's no reason why it should happen. I've been at least 250lbs fully clothed for 15 years and never broken a saddle in a lot of riding, mostly on HT's. It might be you mashing on the climbs, not spinning as much as you might. Trying a different technique is cheaper than buying new kit!


----------



## El_Bendejo (Jul 18, 2006)

Try an i-beam. check the classifieds here, PB or ebay. you should find some combo deals. My googles suggested there was early quality issues with the SDG seatpost heads and the early seats had zero flex (say 2011ish). I went from 1-2 saddles/year to 0 breaks in the last 2 years. The SDG forumulaFX is the single most comfy saddles i've ever used. YMMV

(Like you, i'm a bigger guy on a HT. My issues generally came from landing unexpectedly large jumps or unexpectedly harsh trannys. i.e. blowing thru my legs travel and having my ass hammer the seat causing the rails to bend. That still happens every now and then. so far, no broken rails or heads.)


----------



## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

You say its within the allotted space on the rails, but is it still pretty far back on the rails? Pics or it didn't happen!


----------



## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

jonshonda said:


> You say its within the allotted space on the rails, but is it still pretty far back on the rails? Pics or it didn't happen!


I did not throw it away yet so I'll take a pic tonight.

I spoke with my friend at the shop I frequent. He said the Comp uses a straight up steel rail. We're ordering me up a Race model. It has Chromo. Maybe it'll last better.


----------



## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)




----------



## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Nuts. I've been as high as 320 and spend most of my time in the 250's though I'm current 280 and never broke a seat. I'm on a Specialized Avatar and have been for years. Super solid saddle and comfy. But if that's steel...not sure what you can do. Higher end moves into Ti and Carbon and not sure either are the best choice for clydes.


----------



## GTscoob (Apr 27, 2009)

Pony up for a titanium railed saddle. I've bent and broken chromo saddle rails before, never a problem with Ti railed saddles from WTB, Ergon, and Fizik.


----------



## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Just a thought which might help.

Take a round file and some sandpaper and fillet/break the edges of the clamp where the red arrows point (front and back areas both sides). I am thinking that sharp edge is creating a stress point and breaking the saddle rails. Are the rails breaking right where the exit the clamp?


----------



## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

jonshonda said:


> Just a thought which might help.
> 
> Take a round file and some sandpaper and fillet/break the edges of the clamp where the red arrows point (front and back areas both sides). I am thinking that sharp edge is creating a stress point and breaking the saddle rails. Are the rails breaking right where the exit the clamp?
> 
> View attachment 1069391


Yep. That's exactly where it's breaking. I'll give that a shot.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Get a different post, one that has more support on the bottom rail.

Seriously, Thompson makes good posts but the clamp is narrow.

Like others said, seats shouldn't break, the common thread is your post.


----------



## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Nurse Ben said:


> Get a different post, one that has more support on the bottom rail.
> 
> Seriously, Thompson makes good posts but the clamp is narrow.
> 
> Like others said, seats shouldn't break, the common thread is your post.


I'll look at that. Thanks.


----------



## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

I have titec el norte saddles on both my mtbs. They're super cheap, indestructible (so far as i know), comfy, and comfy when you sit on the nose. It's like a high-performance sofa.


----------



## sir_crackien (Feb 3, 2008)

your answered have already been covered above, but I just wanted to really hammer home the ride lighter concept. It will be easier on EVERY part of your bike and will make you a faster rider overall. I use to bend or break rails when I started but I can tell you that both I and the saddles have gotten ALOT better of the years. no reason to have the rails breaking like above.

Ride light, Ride fast


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

jonshonda said:


> Just a thought which might help.
> 
> Take a round file and some sandpaper and fillet/break the edges of the clamp where the red arrows point (front and back areas both sides). I am thinking that sharp edge is creating a stress point and breaking the saddle rails.


Great idea!


----------



## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Riding rigid off road is still new to me. I'm constantly working on improving my style. 

Yesterday, my new saddle showed up. I thought I was using chromo rails before. I was not. Plain ol steel. The Race Pure came and damn is it light. We'll see how this one lasts. I also very slightly filed the post mount.


----------



## Cycle Chief (May 29, 2014)

We spec SDG's Bel Air for our Rock Crushers and seem to do well.


----------



## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

i break or bend at least a saddle per year. WTB Pure V's have been the worst (3), although last season, i snapped a WTB Devo at the rail, which was replaced by them with a WTB Volt, which has lasted the longest and ironically, considering it's one of the thinnest saddles i've used, is the most comfortable.


----------



## Cycle Chief (May 29, 2014)

What rails are you using? We always go with Titanium...they can squeek over a few years but don't typically bend. The Team Pure V is the only version that offers Ti rest of those WTB look to be Chromoly.


----------



## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

I was using a Comp which is regular steel. I stepped up to a Race which has Chromoly. 
Way lighter than the comp. I rode the bike 52 miles last weekend and didn't break it. 
We'll see how this one does.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Cycle Chief said:


> We always go with Titanium...they can squeek over a few years _*but don't typically bend*_.


Wrong. They bend just fine.


----------



## TucsonBamaRider (Aug 30, 2015)

I saw the suggestion to go with a Cane Creek Thudbuster earlier in the thread. I went from bending 3 saddles in 5 months to none in the last 7 months. And, yes, I got out of the saddles on tech stuff. My issue was getting "bucked off" of the pedals on steep "stair step" downhill features. I also started riding clipless (another topic), and addressed that issue as well. My technique has improved greatly over the last couple of years, but I still like my Thudbuster LT.


----------



## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok reading through this thread,

I'm 275-280 geared. Only have pure V saddles on my bikes, havent so much as bent one.

First off, DO NOT position the seat way back on the rails, keep it as close to centered or slightly forward as possible. Change seat posts if needed

Secondly and most importantly it's been said and I'll say it again GET YOUR ASS OFF THE SEAT WHEN IT GETS BUMPY. Shouldn't be planted on a full suspension. Definitely not a hard tail/rigid bike.

Your body, bike, and wallet will thank you for standing up like you should. Especially running a 29+ and having this problem.

Staying off my seat except cruising when it's smooth or spinning up hill is how I can afford nice bike with nice parts. I have a slim bike budget but not having to replace stuff cause of my size/weight more often makes me and the wife happier 

Breaking seat rails can happen (it just happens on rare occasion on a seat you've had for a while. Badly timed root, pot hole or whatever and snap).

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


----------



## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

tigris99 said:


> Breaking seat rails can happen (it just happens on rare occasion on a seat you've had for a while. Badly timed root, pot hole or whatever and snap).
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


This is really what's going on. I'm off the seat a lot. I guess sometimes, it's just unavoidable and I was trying to hedge me bets. 
I THOUGHT I was using Chromo rails. I was not. Now I am. 
I also run a setback post so I don't have the saddle way back in the clamp. 
I may have solved the problem by finally getting the correct saddle. Time will tell.


----------



## blacksheep5150 (Oct 22, 2014)

V


tigris99 said:


> Ok reading through this thread,
> 
> I'm 275-280 geared. Only have pure V saddles on my bikes, havent so much as bent one.
> 
> ...


What he said , I'm 260 and If the bike is hitting that hard my a** is off the seat .as my legs get stronger I want off the seat more anyways


----------



## BeaverTail (Aug 12, 2009)

The reason the rails keep breaking is they are a soft steel. You want a saddle with cromoly rails. 

I too bent the rails on the lower end WTB saddles. I moved to the WTB Vigo which they don't sell anymore but it had cromoly rails. Years in and they are still fine.

The Pure Race and team have cromily rails. The Comp is just steel.


----------



## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

The old wtb pure v was possibly steel, not the newer ones. The one I have on my fat bike which i think is almost as old as the bike is but is holding my butt fine. I bought my first one 3 yrs ago (one with the silver strips) and it's chromoly rails. On my 29er and no issues.

I haven't looked at the latest versions yet to see about them. But ay least myself. I'm referring to the pure v ones, which hold us fat guys fine if your not trying to ride rock beds on a hard tail while seated.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


----------



## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

I'm on my new Chromoly railed Pure V Race about a month now. So far, so good.


----------



## hrhitter (Dec 20, 2004)

I can't find a model number but 10 years ago when I bought the race face diablo DH crank I bought a WTB DH seat with the bigger steel rails. Would like to buy another just in case.


----------

