# stan's flow rims strong enough?



## greasyslope (Mar 4, 2008)

Hey guys. I posted this over in the AM forum, but didn't get much of a response, so figured I would try over here.

I'm looking at building a new rear wheel, and am trying to figure out if I can get away with the stan's flow rim. I want to go as light as possible, but don't want to sacrifice too much durability. These rims are designated as suitable for some DH, but I need to know if they can hold up on an AM bike for a clyde. My friend rides these, but he's a little guy.

So, I ride a Nomad. I weigh 220 lbs w/o gear, and I ride aggressively, with a lack of finesse (I prefer the straight through line). My trails are not super techy, but I ride plenty of rocky terrain, and I would like to use the wheel on road trips to ledgier, techier areas.

Looking for input from folks with similar riding style who have experience with this rim.

Thanks.


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## huevos (Jun 17, 2008)

I cant speak towards use on an AM setup, but I have the 29er flows on my rigid and they seem plenty strong. Im 6'4" 230 with gear. I took it out on some nasty technical roots and rocks in NH a few weeks ago and they felt very stiff and stayed true. My normal riding for the bike is city commuting and XC.


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## Qanuk (Jan 23, 2006)

Can't speak directly to the Flow, but I have been using a set of Archs' built up w/Chris King hubs on my 29er... They Kick Ass! at 260lbs - I've not had any problems as of yet... and even though I'm a bit more of a XC guy... I am quickly finding that I tend to go DH a bit more aggressive than the norm. I hope to be building a Sultan AM stead next summer - and I'll almost absolutely be putting a set of I9s built on a Flows on her!


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## BWG (Nov 5, 2005)

If they make a 26" 36 spoke version I'd go with that. You'd get a strong wheel you can run tubeless (properly built with good spokes and hub of course). Just something to think about.

With a 26" wheel on a full suspension bike at your weight you should be great. I ride about like you and weigh more and I had some problems with a 32 spoke 29" Flow - Went with a 36 holer and no problems in almost two years.

Or at least run a 32 spoke rim with straight guage spokes instead of butted ones.


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## bsimons (Sep 5, 2010)

I went through several Bontrager rims in a year. I changed to Stan's Flow 36 spoke rims and have ridden them for 2 years. I've only needed minor truing. I'm 265 and I like being in the air. As a matter of fact, the rims have outlasted 2 Stump Jumper FSR 29er Expert frames.


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

I hope so.. I beat my ride regularly with flows on them.. at about the same weight.


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## tenbsmith (Dec 31, 2004)

dysfuntion, How many spoke (32 or 36) and what diameter wheel (26 or 29) you runnin'?

I was thinkin' about these rims for a 26 inch wheelset. Trying to find something a bit lighter than my Rhynolite XLs (564 grams), but wanting to stick with 32 spokes.


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

32 spoke, on a 29er.


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## Broncstad (Aug 4, 2009)

I'm about to buy stans flow for a rip9 and I'm not sure if I should get 32 or 36.I'm 6'4" 220 with gear. the hubs will be chris king. As of now there going to be 32. My local trails are technical and rocky. Also I'm a new rider(1.5 years) and this will be my first good bike. So do you think 32 or 36?


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## bsimons (Sep 5, 2010)

Broncstad said:


> I'm about to buy stans flow for a rip9 and I'm not sure if I should get 32 or 36.I'm 6'4" 220 with gear. the hubs will be chris king. As of now there going to be 32. My local trails are technical and rocky. Also I'm a new rider(1.5 years) and this will be my first good bike. So do you think 32 or 36?


I would err on the side of caution and get the 36 spoke wheel and hub. I was always tweaking a 32 spoke and had quite a bit of side flex on the wheel while climbing up steep, technical stuff. That caused quote a bit of rub on my frame on the 07 Stumpy.

Not all of this was casued by weight (265), much was casused by riding skill, or more specifically, lack thereof. My line selections were not as clean, my landings were a bit off camber etc. BTW, we seem to ride on the same type of terrain, technical and rocky.

Save yourself the future shop time, repair money and most importantly, the lost riding time and spend the ~$30 more on the setup. WTH, your into it for a few hundred. What is a little more at this point....


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## jeffwilsonn (Nov 19, 2008)

210 lbs and I beat my flows pretty good. 32 spoke variety laced to 240s.


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## tenbsmith (Dec 31, 2004)

The reason to stick with 32 spokes instead of 36 is weight not cost. 36 spoke wheels are heavier and rotating weight is especially precious. The added cost of a 36 spoke build is minimal in the context of good, hand-built wheelset. Because of the weight, one should consider a sturdier, probably heavier, rim before deciding to go 36.

The 32 versus 36 spoke choice is really rider specific, and may even change for a given rider as that rider’s abilities develop. Here’s one rider’s story going from 32 to 36 and back to 32 again on 26ers.

A year after I started riding, I had gotten more confident and aggressive. That is when I destroyed 3, inexpensive, machine-built rear wheels in an 8 month span. Then I went to a hand-built 36 spoke rear that stood up to the abuse with occasional truing, but was heavy. While riding those wheels, I realized I couldn’t just hit anything at full speed without using some technique and I improved my riding by ‘lightening up’ before obstacles and scrubbing speed for square edges. I’ve been on 32 spokes for several years now without significant problems—there’ve been a few broken spokes and truing but I could always finish my ride. The 36 spoke rims may have been what I needed as I learned to ride a little lighter, but I see myself sticking 32 from here out.


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## NUTT (May 27, 2008)

Are you hard on wheels? I am. I've destroyed multiple wheelsets, 26", 29" and 700c roadie wheels.

I went with a 36 hole Hope / Flow combo this year. So far, so good.

The weight difference is what, 30 grams per wheel? You can make that up by going tubeless or using a lighter tire.


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## slipfitting 2 (Jan 14, 2009)

*Flow's advantage*

One of the key advantages of the flow rim is it's larger cross-section 28 mm compared to some of these skinny cross-country rims (dt 4.1's or ZTR's). This alone allows more contact patch from your tires. If you have a large volume casing tire with proper PSI you will decrease the risk of rim damage. I would opt for a 36 hole rear and 32 hole front. IMO matched sets are unnecessary because the rear wheel almost always takes the brunt of the abuse. Using a good, trusted wheelbuilder goes a long way toward ensuring longevity.


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## Broncstad (Aug 4, 2009)

I think I'm going 32 after a discussion with the shop that's building them. Speedgoat....


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## BWG (Nov 5, 2005)

Broncstad said:


> I think I'm going 32 after a discussion with the shop that's building them. Speedgoat....


Here's the sweet 32 spoke wheelset they built for me.

AUGUST 2007 - New RIP9 build:








JUNE 2008
Had a spoke break and then this:









I'm not blaming the wheelbuilder, but I hope you'll seriously consider a 36 spoke rear like others and myself have previously stated. Just trying to save you some hassle and cash.:thumbsup:


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

I'm not sure the 4 extra spokes would have prevented the hub body cracking at a spoke hole.


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## BWG (Nov 5, 2005)

dysfunction said:


> I'm not sure the 4 extra spokes would have prevented the hub body cracking at a spoke hole.


Just trying to show what a Clyde can do to components designed for the average 150 lb. rider.


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

BWG said:


> Just trying to show what a Clyde can do to components designed for the average 150 lb. rider.


Yea, that's a real concern. I ended up going flows after I folded the DT hoops that came with my bike... Max weight for those hoops? 80kg.


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