# Worth spending extra money on cables/housing?



## Isabis (Jul 17, 2014)

Hi,
When I was setting up my new bike last year, I've installed this cheap Jagwire cabes + housing on it:
Jagwire Brake Shifter Cable Housing Kit Set for Road and Mountain Bike | eBay

I didn't see anything wrong with them after installing them and they are still just fine after a year of use. My brake and gear cables didn't need additional tightening and both function properly for my impression.

I am now building a new bike for my brother and I need a new set of cables + housing. I was thinking of moving the cables + housing from my bike to his and getting myself a more expensive set, but I am not sure if I would feel any difference. 
So, right now I don't know whether I should just order that cheap Jagwire set for his bike as well and leave my bike as it is or get a better set for my bike.

Do you think the upgrade is worth the money?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

It's a waste to try moving cables and housing from one bike to another. Just put fresh cables on the new bike.

Use what you've got on yours until they need replacing.

I've noticed a couple of things WRT cables and housing.

If you're using full length housing, the cheap stuff works fine for quite some time. If your bike requires interrupted housing, the more expensive kits DO work better, but not really because of any fancy treatments to the cables or housings themselves. What really makes them better is the fact that there's extra effort made to seal the inner cable from the elements. THAT is what makes the more expensive kits work better for longer.

I miss the old Gore Ride-On kits. You might get lucky and find some NOS kits somewhere. XTR kits are pretty good, too.

When it's all said, though, I really prefer full length housing.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Without a doubt there is a noticeable difference between cheap & expensive cables/housing. Some people notice it more than others but it's a worthy upgrade IMO.


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## net wurker (Sep 13, 2007)

Unhook your cables at each end, and grab the wire, one end in each hand. Slide it back and forth several times.

Is it silky smooth, or kinda "gritty" feeling? I would use that as a guide as to whether or not they need replacing.

Keep in mind, the insides of the cable housings do wear over time, due to friction.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Harold said:


> If your bike requires interrupted housing, the more expensive kits DO work better, but not really because of any fancy treatments to the cables or housings themselves. What really makes them better is the fact that there's extra effort made to seal the inner cable from the elements. THAT is what makes the more expensive kits work better for longer.


^that's not true. Back to back comparisons confirm a significant improvement in smoothness (less friction) with better cables. They are slicker.


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## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

In the past I used regular Shimano cables & housing or sometimes the stainless Jagwire kits. I've also used a few coated cables including the old teflon coated Dura-Ace or XTR ones. Generally speaking, they were pretty smooth for a month or 2, then settled into a slightly notchy and/or gritty phase for a year or 2, then after that the cables start feeling crappy enough that I feel compelled to change them out. 

This year was the first time I got to try out Shimano's new polymer coated cable kits, I'm not going back to the old stuff. It starts out smoother than anything I've used in the past and more importantly it stays that way. I've got about 5 months on my XTR shifter cables so far and they still feel like new, there's no notchy or gritty feel to them yet. To me that's worth it, I like having that fresh new cable feel without having to change cables every couple months.


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## idividebyzero (Sep 25, 2014)

Jagwire isnt really "cheap," you can get them cheap on ebay but at a store they are pretty expensive. Ive gotten actual cheap stuff and was constantly having to tighten up the derailleur to make up for the squishy compression. Got some slick coated Jagwire cables from a bulk seller on ebay and was a lot better.


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## LMN (Sep 8, 2007)

Cables are one of those things that it isn't until you replace them that you realize how bad they were.

I live in a dry climate, I only replace the cables twice a year. When I lived in a wet climate and rode all winter it was every month or two.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

Harold said:


> I miss the old Gore Ride-On kits.


Those things were the absolute best thing in cables. It was $80 for a brake OR derailleur set of cables and housings, but man, when properly installed those things were literally slick as ice. Shifting and braking was EASY.


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## 411898 (Nov 5, 2008)

Nothing is as silky smooth as NEW cables and housings, regardless of the brand or quality. Always install new cables and housing on a NEW bike. You won't regret it one bit.


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## Procter (Feb 3, 2012)

I've used both Gore Ride-on and Jagwire Teflon coated, along with a couple other brand's teflon coated. 

Ride-on are nice, but not $50 bucks nice. And, the Ride-on has a plastic coating which wears and frays, the longevity isn't great. 

So, I'd recommend a teflon coated cable from Jagwire or another brand.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Shimano SP41 and Jagwire LEX are the best value out there for slick high performance shift housing. Best paired with any stainless cable that has a smoothed round exterior like Shimano's stainless. I used to use Aztec Duracote, but the teflon coating didn't improve anything with the Jagwire/Shimano lubed housing and just made it more of a pain when clamping. Leave the basic zinc/galvanized cables for the beater bikes you don't care about. Being stingy trying to save $3-4 per cable can make a high end shifter and derailleur feel like Deore/X5 level.

I think Jenson sold XTR mtn kits for $20. That's what you should be getting. That's a deal for the quality you get. Shimano MTB Sil-Tec Coat Shift Cable Set > Components > Cables & Housing > Shifter Cables & Housing | Jenson USA or get the road set if you want color (has less total housing length, prob only good enough for 1x, but still has 2 of the siltec cables).


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## Isabis (Jul 17, 2014)

Ok, so according to everyone who replied, it's worth it.
I'll then check out the ones you suggested and get one of those.

Thanks everyone


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## Guest (Nov 14, 2015)

J.B. Weld said:


> ^that's not true. Back to back comparisons confirm a significant improvement in smoothness (less friction) with better cables. They are slicker.


I get what he's saying, with some interpretation. I usually don't buy a whole kit if I have full length cables and a good terminal end for the rear der. My LBS stocks Jagwire housing and inner cables, so I skip the kit and just buy the housing and cable. On bikes I've added Jagwire, I usually refresh the last loop of der cable (by the rear der) yearly and relube the cables at the same time. I'm still a convert to soldering the cable ends (before I trim to length). My cable usually goes in and out of the housing a few times before it's replaced.


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

Isabis said:


> Ok, so according to everyone who replied, it's worth it....


Just don't put the old ones on your brother's bike.......unless of course you just want to screw him over.


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## Dirk Ross (Jun 13, 2014)

Varaxis said:


> Shimano SP41 and Jagwire LEX are the best value out there for slick high performance shift housing. Best paired with any stainless cable that has a smoothed round exterior like Shimano's stainless. I used to use Aztec Duracote, but the teflon coating didn't improve anything with the Jagwire/Shimano lubed housing and just made it more of a pain when clamping. Leave the basic zinc/galvanized cables for the beater bikes you don't care about. Being stingy trying to save $3-4 per cable can make a high end shifter and derailleur feel like Deore/X5 level.
> 
> I think Jenson sold XTR mtn kits for $20. That's what you should be getting. That's a deal for the quality you get. *Shimano MTB Sil-Tec Coat Shift Cable Set > Components > Cables & Housing > Shifter Cables & Housing | Jenson USA* or get the road set if you want color (has less total housing length, prob only good enough for 1x, but still has 2 of the siltec cables).


^^^ I just installed these cables two weeks ago and they are very good. Reasonable price and shifting improved dramatically.


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## Isabis (Jul 17, 2014)

gmcttr said:


> Just don't put the old ones on your brother's bike.......unless of course you just want to screw him over.


haha I won't, I'll put new ones on his and in few months I'll put new ones on my bike too


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## Manning (Apr 11, 2007)

+1 for the shimano polymer coated cable sets. I'll use nothing else now.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

There's no better money spent than quality cables and housing. Using cheap parts there is like trying to get tech support from somebody with poor English through a bad phone connection.


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

Ive never noticed a difference in any cable. Ive used XTR, jagwire, whatever brand performance bike sells (teflon and normal). They all feel the same to me. The housing makes a really big difference. If you're still using cable brakes, its a HUGE difference! 

Ill buy whatever name brand cable is on sale. Be picky with housings though!


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

One of my bikes has Clarks Teflon cables and for the money they are great. After a good few years they are still working fine. I put them on another bike with a troublesome rear dérailleur too and they sorted that as well. Good cables but not expensive. 

Having said that, if your gears work well just leave them alone. When they start getting sticky, that's when to change them.


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## phobospwns (Dec 1, 2010)

I was a mechanic for several years at a high end shop in Austin, and another shop in Buffalo. I've installed and ridden several types of cables/housing. Gore, Jagwire, Shimano, teflon coated, etc...

Jagwire cables are absolutely fine, I've used those several times. I generally tend to use the standard Shimano sets myself, those are also fine. Shimano MTB Stainless Steel Gear Cable Set | Chain Reaction Cycles.

There's nothing "wrong" with spending more on higher level cables/housing... but it's not going to change your experience on the bike as a whole. Sure, the Gore were sweet, the XTR coated cables were nice, but did I _really_ notice while I was riding? Not really... So long as you're not going with the cheapest housing/cable combination out there, you'll have no problems.

Honestly, staying on top of dropping a little bit of dry lube into your housings on a regular basis (say every 5-10 rides, depends on conditions, naturally) will go a lot further than putting on an expensive set of cable/housing and just letting them be.


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## phobospwns (Dec 1, 2010)

Varaxis said:


> Shimano SP41


You'll find them cheaper on Chain Reaction, friend. That's true of almost everything else, btw. Plus free shipping over 100 (fast, too, usually under 7 days). I've actually e-mailed both Jenson and PP over the disparity of pricing, never to hear back from either.

CR >> Jenson/Pricepoint


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

phobospwns said:


> Honestly, staying on top of dropping a little bit of dry lube into your housings on a regular basis (say every 5-10 rides, depends on conditions, naturally) will go a lot further than putting on an expensive set of cable/housing and just letting them be.


I don't think that's the best advise^ lubing cables often like that just gums things up, and dry lube is the worst IME. I'll lube cheaper cables when installing them (preferably Shimano special grease) but not high end sets like xtr.

To me it's night & day difference between the cheaper cable sets and the best ones.



phobospwns said:


> You'll find them cheaper on Chain Reaction, friend. That's true of almost everything else, btw. Plus free shipping over 100 (fast, too, usually under 7 days). I've actually e-mailed both Jenson and PP over the disparity of pricing, never to hear back from either.


Pretty sure it's due to the currency exchange rate, all the euro stores are cheaper due to that.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

J.B. Weld said:


> lubing cables often like that just gums things up, and dry lube is the worst IME.


I've been running oil into my cables for many years and I've never had a problem? Mostly I use Finish Line Cross Country, because it's what I have in my hand, but sometimes a thinner PTFE-loaded oil and both seem to work without a problem.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Mr Pig said:


> I've been running oil into my cables for many years and I've never had a problem? Mostly I use Finish Line Cross Country, because it's what I have in my hand, but sometimes a thinner PTFE-loaded oil and both seem to work without a problem.


Oil isn't necessarily bad but the problem with running it into the cables is that you are usually running dirt & grit into them as well, and if you aren't diligent about cleaning the ends near the ferrules afterward the lube will continue to attract dirt which can then migrate into the housing. The best way (for split housing) is to first clean the exposed cable and then unhook the housing so you can clean the cable where it is normally covered and then lube. I think light grease is best.

Really though, with the good stuff all that is unnecessary and mostly detrimental IME.


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## phobospwns (Dec 1, 2010)

J.B. Weld said:


> Pretty sure it's due to the currency exchange rate, all the euro stores are cheaper due to that.


Well, the Euro and the USD are essentially even (1 dollar = 1.07 euro), and the British Pound is much stronger than the dollar (1 dollar = .66 pounds). So the exchange rate isn't really helping us stateside in that regard.

CR is just so big they make their money in volume, not necessarily in mark up. They can afford to make small margins because they're huge. I've found the selection, prices, and customer services of CR to be far superior to Jenson/Pricepoint, to boot. There's a reason they're so big, it's because they're so good.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

J.B. Weld said:


> Oil isn't necessarily bad but the problem with running it into the cables is that you are usually running dirt & grit into them as well, and if you aren't diligent about cleaning the ends near the ferrules afterwards the lube will continue to attract dirt which can then migrate into the housing.


I must admit, I never wipe the cables clean. I flick the shifter to let the tension off, pull the outer out of the stops and slide it along the cable. Run some oil on the cable and put the outer back in place.

Yeah, the cable can get a bit dirty but with oil in the cable it just doesn't seem to make any difference. It's not like it packs up, you just get dirty oil but it still works fine. In my experience anyway. Maybe your dirt is different ;0)



phobospwns said:


> There's a reason they're so big, it's because they're so good.


Yeah, it's true. Over the years I've used a few on-line shops and Chain Reaction are the best, they just are. Sure, there might be the odd thing to complain about occasionally but other shops are worse.


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## Fleas (Jan 19, 2006)

I am the poster boy for using cheap cables. I mean Wal-Mart cheap.
I coat the entire cable with silicone grease before I string them up. It lasts for a really long time, esp. with full-length housing.

I would be interested to see if the expensive cables are wound with finer wire. That would make them smoother. Can anyone run over to Wal-Mart and lay a $5 cable next to a $whatever cable and see if there's a difference?


-F


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## NH Mtbiker (Nov 6, 2004)

My money is on the Shimano....factory greased and sealed and well deserved for any new build or cable replacement. 
Even RP at Bike Mag endorses them!....

Review: Shimano SP41 Shift Housing | BIKE Magazine


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

NH Mtbiker said:


> My money is on the Shimano....factory greased and sealed and well deserved for any new build or cable replacement.
> Even RP at Bike Mag endorses them!....
> 
> Review:Â*Shimano SP41 Shift Housing | BIKE Magazine


Wow. I thought, "article on cable housing? Borrrrring!" But I clicked on it and was glad I did.

Thanks!


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Finch Platte said:


> Wow. I thought, "article on cable housing? Borrrrring!" But I clicked on it and was glad I did.
> 
> Thanks!


Same here, that's mildly interesting thanks NH for posting that. I'm getting close to switching over a build from one frame to another and these will be my go to cables.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

Finch Platte said:


> Wow. I thought, "article on cable housing? Borrrrring!"


I think 'WOW' is maybe a bit much though? ;0) Mildly interesting I'll go with.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Mr Pig said:


> I think 'WOW' is maybe a bit much though? ;0) Mildly interesting I'll go with.


Thanks for saving me. I corrected my post above.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

DIRTJUNKIE said:


> Thanks for saving me. I corrected my post above.


Don't get me wrong, I think cable housing is a great thing, have some myself, but unless it gives me an orgasm the word WOW does not apply.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Mr Pig said:


> Don't get me wrong, I think cable housing is a great thing, have some myself, but unless it gives me an orgasm the word WOW does not apply.


If that were the case I'd walk around in a daze and exhausted all day every day.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

DIRTJUNKIE said:


> If that were the case I'd walk around in a daze and exhausted all day every day.


Kinda thought you did? ;0)


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Mr Pig said:


> Kinda thought you did? ;0)


Zing!!


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## NH Mtbiker (Nov 6, 2004)

Finch Platte said:


> Wow. I thought, "article on cable housing? Borrrrring!" But I clicked on it and was glad I did.
> 
> Thanks!


No problem....never thought recommending cables would produce a "Wow"!

I can also recommend a really good beer if you're ever in Vermont....the Alchemist Heady Topper! Pours hazy golden orange with a fluffy white head. Aroma is bursting with citrus, grapefruit, oranges, orange zest, pine, peach, pineapple, mango, grassy and spicy bitterness.
Alchemist Heady Topper

:thumbsup:


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

I go cheap cables with full length housing, and I'm good to go for at least a couple-three years even with riding all winter in the slop. Leave enough of a tail so you can cut the anti-fray thingy off, pull all the cable out, wipe it down, and re-insert, and they'll last for a couple-couple-six years. I don't typically keep a bike that long, so I'm not feeling the need to spend more money for anything fancier...


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## bamwa (Mar 15, 2010)

Nobody mentioned cable stretch. My brake cables feel a little stretchy but it's hard to tell if it is normal or excessive. I thought they stretch a little at first as they brake in but then you readjust. (like guitar strings at first). Now after a few years they are feeling softer I think, but it's hard to tell. Does anyone know if a cable stretch shootout has been done between brands? There is more to this than teflon coatings. Maybe there should be a new standard of larger diameter cables and housing! Or how about a cable stretch tool like a chain stretch tool?


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

bamwa said:


> Nobody mentioned cable stretch. My brake cables feel a little stretchy but it's hard to tell if it is normal or excessive. I thought they stretch a little at first as they brake in but then you readjust. (like guitar strings at first). Now after a few years they are feeling softer I think, but it's hard to tell. Does anyone know if a cable stretch shootout has been done between brands? There is more to this than teflon coatings. Maybe there should be a new standard of larger diameter cables and housing! Or how about a cable stretch tool like a chain stretch tool?


The spongy feeling is due to several factors but cable stretch isn't a significant contributor IME. Housing compression, caliper and brake lever flex have more to do with it than the cable itself.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I read somewhere that the cables do not "stretch". Its the housing that compresses. The initial stretch when the cables and housing is new...is the ferrules settling into the housing.

If your brakes are feeling spongy, use housing with aluminum links like Nokon or the Alligator I-Links.


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

Hawg said:


> Nothing is as silky smooth as NEW cables and housings, regardless of the brand or quality. Always install new cables and housing on a NEW bike. You won't regret it one bit.


This, and make sure the housing ends are cut straight/clean or even the expensive stuff will work like $hit. Usually requires an actual purpose made cable cutter. Something like this - JensonUSA 767 Cable Cutter > Accessories > Tools > Cable Tools | Jenson USA


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

bamwa said:


> Maybe there should be a new standard of larger diameter cables and housing!


Interesting idea. Not because it's needed, but it would be another way for manufacturers to sell us a system that works perfectly well instead of the system that works perfectly well which we have at the moment. They're running out of bits to totally renew so I can see it happening.


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## 153stars (Nov 27, 2013)

I surprised no one mentioned Jagwire makes several grades of cable and housing. I did a Scotty rim brake loaner bike with carbon braided housings and their best cables everything worked much better after that.My other bikes are jealous of those sexy housings.


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## Guest (Feb 29, 2016)

Mr Pig said:


> Interesting idea. Not because it's needed, but it would be another way for manufacturers to sell us a system that works perfectly well instead of the system that works perfectly well which we have at the moment. They're running out of bits to totally renew so I can see it happening.


 It's a bit like the way the US Air Force designs stuff. Create a potential threat, design a weapon to counter that threat, realize later that you've wasted a ton of money getting ready for a non-existent threat. We used to be able to do everything with one wheel size and 10 speeds. How could we possibly ride anywhere without new, larger standard cables. Of course they'll have different ends so we'll need different brake levers and shifters.


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## bamwa (Mar 15, 2010)

well I investigated and maybe it isnt so much cable stretch.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

Forster said:


> It's a bit like the way the US Air Force designs stuff. Create a potential threat, design a weapon to counter that threat, realize later that you've wasted a ton of money getting ready for a non-existent threat.


I thought they just gave contracts to whoever offered the biggest kickbacks then told the Air Force to shut the feck up and get on with it? F-22 anyone?


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## Guest (Feb 29, 2016)

At least they still fly the F-22. Where's the F-117?


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

Forster said:


> Where's the F-117?


You can't see it, because it's invisible.

I'm making jokes but I'd rather have a strong US military than a weak one, even if a few eggs get broken on the way. It's nothing new, the Sherman tank springs to mind, but the day the US is out-gunned we're in trouble.


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## Guest (Feb 29, 2016)

Mr Pig said:


> You can't see it, because it's invisible.
> 
> I'm making jokes but I'd rather have a strong US military than a weak one, even if a few eggs get broken on the way. It's nothing new, the Sherman tank springs to mind, but the day the US is out-gunned we're in trouble.


 I'm with you there. I spend 20 years refueling US and NATO jets all over the world in a tanker made in 1956, so I get both ends of the spending equation. I do wish we'd do a better job of acquisition, but I appreciate that we're the bigger dog in the fight (I'll let the politicians decide which fight). The Sherman tank is an interesting point in history. We decided that we had enough firepower and technology (which is almost always a bad assumption) and got a lot of tank crews killed. I really appreciate the fact that Americans can joke, critique, even take cheap shots at our government with little fear of being arrested for speaking out. Not the case in many countries.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

Forster said:


> I do wish we'd do a better job of acquisition, but I appreciate that we're the bigger dog in the fight.


Maybe. I'm not too sure about what Russia has been up to these past few years but I doubt they're as backward as they used to be.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

I have never noticed any difference between cheap and expensive shifter cables. 

Brake cables are a different story. The difference between standard generic cables and Jagwire Ripcords have been very noticeable to me. They run $25 - 30 a set and are worth every penny, IMO.

Re-using cables can be tricky. You usually need to cut the ends off to do so, and then the cable is too short. I have done it a couple times, but it is usually not worth the hassle. If you are also moving the components the cables are attached to it is more doable.


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

Mr Pig said:


> Don't get me wrong, I think cable housing is a great thing, have some myself, but unless it gives me an orgasm the word WOW does not apply.


I thought WOW because I had no idea Shitmano put so much thought into their cables/housing. Pretty intense for an item you don't think about much.


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## FullBladdy (Aug 26, 2011)

Having recently installed new brakes to replace almost new brakes I would have to say that cables and housings are factors but so many other things my come into play. Too much of a kink at the rear derailleur and shifting will be a pain no matter what cables and housings. I just moved from new slx shifters to xtr shifters while keeping the practically new jagwire housings and new xtr cables and it is night and day. I feel most of that comes from the top quality xtr but every little bit counts. To lube or not to lube is something I have gone back and forth on. I usually do not lube my housings anymore but recently my son's shifters were giving him some issues and a quick lube of the cable made it so much easier for his 7 year old hands. 

My current bike has internal cable routing which means full cable housings and I can see this having a positive impact on keeping debris from moving in.


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## hiro11 (Dec 29, 2011)

My thoughts on cables:
1. I avoid the Teflon coated cables, the Teflon starts shedding after a few months and can gum things up. I prefer quality stainless steel cables which can usually be found inexpensively. That's good because I like replacing cables fairly often, doing so gives you a great "new bike" feel. Cheap non-stainless cables are somewhat rare these days but they truly suck and should be replaced immediately, IMO.
2. Good quality housing is more important than the inners. IMO, Shimano makes the best derailleur housing.
3. A key factor is how cleanly you cut the housing and how cleanly you open the end of the housing. Bike-specific cable cutters are a basic requirement to me if you're going to be replacing your own cables, especially since you can get a good pair cheaply. Also, get some needle files to open up the ends after cutting.
4. Internal cabling often dramatically increases drag, especially if it's been poorly designed. Also, internal cabling can make a working on your cables a bit more tricky if you have a problem. I prefer external cabling along the top tube with full length housing in frames.
5. I've never had lube work well in cable housing, it tends to attract dirt. Some Shimano housing comes prelubed and that seems to work OK.
6. Cable stretch doesn't exist, it's the housing end compressing or the ferrule bedding in. With brake cables, just squeeze the lever ten times after installing, use the barrel adjuster to take up the slack and be done with it.
7. Cables in general suck. They're the single least reliable part on any bike. Once you use hydro brakes it's hard to go back, they just work better, they're less finicky and bleeding keeps getting easier. Also, wireless electronic shifting is the way forward to me. Once SRAM makes it available on MTBs at reasonable prices, I'll likely upgrade. I give it five years.


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## Guest (Mar 2, 2016)

I do pretreat my stainless cables with a light coat of Wax based chain lube. Once it's dry it's gum-proofish. I use a Dremel tool and cut-off wheel to cut cables. You can use the flat edge to ensure they're trimmed square. I also keep a long chunk of cable handy with the end soldiered to push through after the cable is cut (while the inner liner is still hot) and a sharpened spoke chunk to flair the inner liner slightly. Might be a lot of work, but it seems to provide very clean ends and consistent cuts.


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## xmessenger (Aug 13, 2010)

Forster said:


> I'm with you there. I spend 20 years refueling US and NATO jets all over the world in a tanker made in 1956, so I get both ends of the spending equation. I do wish we'd do a better job of acquisition, but I appreciate that we're the bigger dog in the fight (I'll let the politicians decide which fight). The Sherman tank is an interesting point in history. We decided that we had enough firepower and technology (which is almost always a bad assumption) and got a lot of tank crews killed. I really appreciate the fact that Americans can joke, critique, even take cheap shots at our government with little fear of being arrested for speaking out. Not the case in many countries.


Unless what you say reveals something the Government has denied like having a mass spying apparatus used without due process against its own citizens or being a whistle blower with regards to international war crimes or if you are protesting Wall street criminals and big multinationals who rub shoulders and bank roll politicians in Washington...but yeah, I can write this and not get arrested at least.
Oh, and I like Gore RideOn and cable kits with liners to essentially seal out contamination.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

Harold said:


> I miss the old Gore Ride-On kits.


I still have the Gore cables on my HT from 1997 and they work great after all this time.

Granted, that bike doesn't get a whole lot of use anymore, but it's still impressive.


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## OlMarin (Oct 22, 2016)

Fleas said:


> I am the poster boy for using cheap cables. I mean Wal-Mart cheap.
> I coat the entire cable with silicone grease before I string them up. It lasts for a really long time, esp. with full-length housing.
> 
> I would be interested to see if the expensive cables are wound with finer wire. That would make them smoother. Can anyone run over to Wal-Mart and lay a $5 cable next to a $whatever cable and see if there's a difference?
> ...


Pretty much me here. I use the Clark's cables I get at a local bike shop. 5 bucks with housing and ends. I spray silicone in the housing before installing using the provided straw. Once a year, new rear cables. I reuse the rears on the front and throw the old fronts away. I never have cable problems, rarely have to do any adjustments and just don't worry about them. If you're really anal, get the best and replace them a bazillion times a year. Otherwise, just ride.


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## chazpat (Sep 23, 2006)

I buy the 25' coil housing pack from REI, just looked and it is on sale, I guess they are trying to clear out the old Navaro branded stuff. I've heard that it is made by Jagwire. They are also showing XLC housing, 26' for the same price, I hope it's the same stuff.


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