# Tips for light Ripmo build



## williford (Dec 8, 2005)

I am planning to build up a Ripmo that will become my daily driver for 2-6hr rides with loads of climbing and descending. Coming from a light XC FS and being a WW in general, I would love some help getting this thing as light as possible without sacrificing reliability. Any tips would be much appreciated. Any idea how light this thing can/will be? 27lbs?

Frame: Ripmo XL
Fork: Fox Factory Grip2 160mm
Shock: Fox Factory DPX2
Wheels: not sure, ~30mm inner width carbon rims...
Crankset: Hollogram SiSL2 w/ oval ring
Drivetrain: full SRAM X01 Eagle
Brakes: XTR (already have these)
Rotors: 180/160...or should I got 180/180 or 200/160?
Bar/stem: Syncros Hynix IC SL 780mm
Post: LEV carbon 170mm
Saddle: SLR Ti Superflow or similar
Tires: 2.6" Nobby Nic/2.35" Rock Razor
Grips: ESI Chunky
Cage: King Ti


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## sissypants (Sep 7, 2016)

williford said:


> I am planning to build up a Ripmo that will become my daily driver for 2-6hr rides with loads of climbing and descending. Coming from a light XC FS and being a WW in general, I would love some help getting this thing as light as possible without sacrificing reliability. Any tips would be much appreciated. Any idea how light this thing can/will be? 27lbs?
> 
> Frame: Ripmo XL
> Fork: Fox Factory Grip2 160mm
> ...


The specs you're suggesting are alright weight-wise, not sure where you want to improve?

I'd focus on the wheels, try to keep the set under 1300g. There are other threads in the WW forum where you might find good suggestions for this.

Maybe you could look for a FIT4 damper over the Grip2, isn't it lighter? If you don't need that extra damper adjustability.

Rotors size should depend on your weight and intended purpose. Sounds like you're doing a bit of descending, so I wouldn't skimp if I were you. SRAM Centerline would be a solid bet, and I'd do 160/160mm if you're under 180 lbs and 180/180mm if you're much over that. 200mm is overkill unless you're really heavy and really booking it on the descents.

For your crankset, you might consider a Race Face Next over the hollowgram cranks, that can save a little weight. I'd also do Absolute Black or Garbaruk oval chainrings, save another 15g 

XTR brakes are the way to go! Unless you can afford Trickstuff Piccola 

Do you really need that much travel on your seatpost? What about getting something lighter like the 9 point 8 fall line and cutting it down, just 75mm of travel would do for your purpose, maybe?

I've mated a Shimano XTR shifter/derailleur to my X01 cassette, which is a tad lighter than full X01. It depends more on which big-S brand you like better for shifting duties as the weight savings are minimal.

As much as the new integrated Syncros stem/handlebar might attract, I think traditional stem/handlebar combos will easily undercut it. Just look at Kalloy stems and Race Face Next handlebar, for example.

Ultimately you're building a bike for your intended purpose, and I'm hesitant to recommend all the traditional weight-weenie stuff if you're looking for this much travel and descending capability. Carbon saddle, rigid seatpost, lightweight headset, ultralight carbon bar, 29x2.1 or 2.25 tires, 28h wheel build, etc.


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

williford said:


> I am planning to build up a Ripmo that will become my daily driver for 2-6hr rides with loads of climbing and descending. Coming from a light XC FS and being a WW in general, I would love some help getting this thing as light as possible without sacrificing reliability. Any tips would be much appreciated. Any idea how light this thing can/will be? 27lbs?


I don't see anything wrong in the list, only place where you can save some is in the saddle and wheels 


williford said:


> Frame: Ripmo XL
> Fork: Fox Factory Grip2 160mm
> Shock: Fox Factory DPX2
> Wheels: not sure, ~30mm inner width carbon rims...


I don't think you need 30 mm inner. It is a residue of the 2.8-3.0 marketing uplá. With 2.35/2.6 tires you would be perfectly fine with a 22-26 inner. But if you insist get a pair of DT XMC 1200 30. Ultra reliable, you cannot beat easily their 1440 grams.


williford said:


> Crankset: Hollogram SiSL2 w/ oval ring
> Drivetrain: full SRAM X01 Eagle


I would get XTR, and consider 11 speed 1046 ... lighter!


williford said:


> Brakes: XTR (already have these)
> Rotors: 180/160...or should I got 180/180 or 200/160?
> Bar/stem: Syncros Hynix IC SL 780mm


I would stick with Renthal, it is as light and much more adjustable. 


williford said:


> Post: LEV carbon 170mm


Revive!


williford said:


> Saddle: SLR Ti Superflow or similar


Get a carbon railed saddle. They are as strong and shave off 50-80 grams.


williford said:


> Tires: 2.6" Nobby Nic/2.35" Rock Razor


Nobby Nic are great, although I am amazed at how much a Rocket Ron ride faster. Maybe in the back, 2.25 would be fine.

If you come from a XC rig I would consider investing in two sets of wheels/tires. One for heavier duties, and one for more normal trail riding. I just swapped the set of ultra-light wheels used on my Norco Revolver cross-country bike onto my HD3 and I was amazed at the difference! These are Lightbicycle Ultralight (DT Swiss centerlock/28 spokes = 1170 grams) paired with the Rocket Ron 2.25. Very much fun, way faster, and it saves having two bikes! So much so that I am selling my http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenies/norco-rev-olve-r-build-weights-1033947.html


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## williford (Dec 8, 2005)

Thanks for the ideas. Yeah wheels seem like the biggest opportunity.



sissypants said:


> Do you really need that much travel on your seatpost? What about getting something lighter like the 9 point 8 fall line and cutting it down, just 75mm of travel would do for your purpose, maybe?


That 170mm will be at full extension already to get up to 83.5cm axle to top of saddle...no chance at a shorter post.



sissypants said:


> As much as the new integrated Syncros stem/handlebar might attract, I think traditional stem/handlebar combos will easily undercut it. Just look at Kalloy stems and Race Face Next handlebar, for example.


I figured a light stem/bar would be ~135g + ~200g = 335g. I think the Syncros is more like ~270g.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

I'm a big fan of the X01 11spd drivetrain. 265g cassette, decent cost-to-weight ratio on the derailleur and cassette, use a 30 or 32 front ring, you get a little more rock-clearance too. 10-42 is plenty for me, should be for most people, especially considering gear ratios we used to turn, and the very lowest gears (22-36) were very difficult to ride on a long-travel bike due to the front end coming up and the squish, I usually had to be in at least the 2nd or 3rd easiest rear cog back in those days to prevent those issues, so going to 10-42 gives me just what I need and nothing that I don't. 

That bike is a Ripmo though, it deserves 200/180 rotors for sure, don't skimp and try to save a bunch of weight here. Weight-weenie rotors heat up like crazy and make your pads glaze over, having XTR vs. beefier calipers will exacerbate the problem. Icetech works great.

The Revive isn't THE lightest, but it is one of if not the bset-working and worth the slight penalty.


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

sissypants said:


> I'd focus on the wheels, try to keep the set under 1300g.


1300g wheels are *really* light for what this bike is capable of. I'd encourage the OP to think long and hard about how close to this bike's potential they'll be riding. If "maxed out" is ever an answer, 1300g would scare me to death.


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## sissypants (Sep 7, 2016)

mikesee said:


> 1300g wheels are *really* light for what this bike is capable of. I'd encourage the OP to think long and hard about how close to this bike's potential they'll be riding. If "maxed out" is ever an answer, 1300g would scare me to death.


Good point, I guess I was thinking too much in the XC realms. More all-mountain or enduro riding would put a solid wheelset around 1600g I guess with more durable rims and spokes.


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

sissypants said:


> Good point, I guess I was thinking too much in the XC realms. More all-mountain or enduro riding would put a solid wheelset around 1600g I guess with more durable rims and spokes.


I think your advice _could be_ spot on, I (we) just don't know enough about the OP's trails nor riding style to really know how hard the bike will get pushed, hence my admonition for OP to think more about it.

I like light wheels. I also have a weird preference for intact teeth. I try not to let my preference for the former inhibit my possession of the latter.


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

Sounds like the wrong frame if you’re contemplating 1300g wheels...


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Streetdoctor said:


> Sounds like the wrong frame if you're contemplating 1300g wheels...


I guess we're piling on now, but I'd agree. Also the fact that the frame is XL suggests the rider could be bigger, and thus close to max weight regardless (if one is posted).


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## williford (Dec 8, 2005)

phlegm said:


> I guess we're piling on now, but I'd agree. Also the fact that the frame is XL suggests the rider could be bigger, and thus close to max weight regardless (if one is posted).


I was initially thinking sub 1500g, but I'm not sure if that is right or how strong 1300g wheels are. BTW those DT XMC 1200 30s are more like 1550g in boost 29 size.

I am 172lb and currently ride a 1400g Lightbike 30mm (outer) wheelset pretty hard, at least for XC, on trails in the Rocky Mountains. Dr Park, 403, etc. I have not had issues but I don't go too low on tire pressure either.


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Ibis 935 carbon wheels are are 1590 grams and super bomber. Your build is going to be closer to 28lb, but that's okay. You are building an all mountain bike, do you really want to compromise the overall package just to save weight you are not going to notice.

I have a full weight weenie build with long dropper, big rotors and beefier tires. There is no single piece that functions as well while shedding weight. Tires would be the only place I might save weight in the future.

Frame: 2019 XL Ripmo with X2 shock, seat collar and no rear axle was 6.45lb. I added about .5lb of clear and mastic tape.
Forks: 2019 Fox Factory 36 Grip2 Oarnge 15mm Kabolt -- Gold titanium bolts
Rear Shock: 2019 Fox X2 with climb switch
Bars: Raceface Next R cut to 780mm 
Stem: Raceface Turbine 35 60mm -- Gold titanium bolts
Headset: Cane Creek 110
Spacers: Carbon
Grips: SQlab 70X Black Small 

Brakes: 2018 XTR m9020 Trail brakes -- Gold titanium bolts
Rotors: Front XTR 203 Rear XTR 180
Shifter: Sram XX1 Eagle Gold -- Gold titanium bolts
Cables: Shimano Optislick 
Housing: Shimano SP41 Orange -- Heatshrinked
Rear Derailleur: Sram XX1 Eagle Gold -- Gold titanium bolts
Crankset: Sram GPX XX1 Eagle Gold Orange raceface boots
Bottom Bracket: Sram Team GPX
Chain: Sram XX1 Eagle Gold 
Cassette: Sram XX1 Eagle Gold
Pedals: XTR m9000 Race 

Seat: NOS 2006 Selle Italia Flite Trans AM titanium rails
Seat Post: 9Point8 200mm -- Gold titanium bolts
Remote: Wolf Tooth remote light action
Seat Post Clamp: Ibis -- Gold titanium bolt
Bells: Knog Oi Bell and Timberbell I like for hikers to hear me coming
Waterbottle Cage: Arundel Sideloader -- Gold aluminum bolts
Tools: One Up EDC with custom Dynaplug mount

Wheels: Ibis 935 Carbon, I9 hubs black Custom Orange stickers on the way
Front Tire: Maxxis DHF 2.5 WT 3C EXO, 2oz stans
Front Tire: Maxxis Aggressor 2.5 WT dual EXO, 2oz stans
Computer mount: K-Edge Stem Mount -- Gold titanium bolt

Total build with pedals and computer mount is 29.5 lb


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## litany (Nov 25, 2009)

You could go with the new light bicycle rims with extralite hubs.

Beast bar with Newmen stem is lighter than the synchros. Enve stem too but that’s more $$.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Jayem said:


> That bike is a Ripmo though, it deserves 200/180 rotors for sure, don't skimp and try to save a bunch of weight here. Weight-weenie rotors heat up like crazy and make your pads glaze over, having XTR vs. beefier calipers will exacerbate the problem. Icetech works great.


This man knows what he is talking about.

I'll soon have some very nice 180mm Carbon Ti rotors for sale. Cool rotors but just don't offer enough bite for my Enduro Sled.

WW to the core here, but it turns out brakes is NOT the place to save weight unless it's a XC/ trail bike.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Places where it's really hard to save weight: Tires (the NN 2.6 is an awful front tire btw), wheels (they freakin' break! I'm on an XD rear NOBL now, with a noodle), brakes as discussed above, suspension components (just stick with air).

Good places to save weight are the KS Lev Ci (my 175 has been dead reliable and I overuse my droppers), seats if you have a hard ass (I like the S-Works Power Pro seat, but it's pricey. There are imitation ones for sale on Alibaba), Renthal bars and some other lightweight stem (I found an Enve used for cheap!). Also your whole tool, repair set up is a good place to save and locate weight correctly. Don't carry more than you need and don't use a big heavy bag to contain them. I like the ToPeak Ninja bottle cages that include tire levers and a storage pouch. That combined with the OneUp pump with storage inside gives me all the tools I need, no excess packaging, and everything is located centrally on the bike and I still have water bottle storage.


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## RSAmerica (Aug 24, 2012)

Tire suggestion - Maxxis Forekaster 29x2.6 3C.


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

Davide said:


> I don't think you need 30 mm inner. It is a residue of the 2.8-3.0 marketing uplá. With 2.35/2.6 tires you would be perfectly fine with a 22-26 inner.
> [/url]


I disagree. 30mm is the best width if you plan to run a 2.6, plus you can still downsize to a 2.3 if necessary. Maxxis recommends a 30mm inner width for their 2.5 WT, so it is also ideal for most 2.6 tires. 35mm inner rims are too wide for anything smaller than a 2.5 WT or 2.6 - that would be too wide.


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## cgnreno (Oct 8, 2004)

*My new "trail" oriented Ripmo build*

I posted a similar post in the Ibis forum. Weight came in at 27.8lbs. Not weight weenie category but pretty light for type/category of bike. It actually weighs less than my XL Ripley (I sized down and I'm glad. The Ripley LX v3 was 28.3lbs). It is lighter because I switched to some lighter take off Bontrager Team XR4 tires 2.6"/2.4") and put on a lighter saddle and dropper post (150mm Fox Transfer to 175mm Carbon Lev). I also put on some eggbeater pedals I had lying around but will definitely put something else heavier at some point. It also may be lighter due to the fact that I had a painted XL Ripley and this is the the matte frame in size Large. Only thing I'd like to do would be to switch to new XTR (or XT) micro spline set up whenever it comes out. Not sure if I'd go with the new Shimano race (two piston) brakes with larger rotors (I have 180/160 on their from the Ripley) or the 4 piston versions. The two pot versions have been fine but I find myself riding faster and faster and I know I'll be going faster on the Ripmo.

I initially ordered with DPX2 shock and performance fork but Ibis/LBS got ordered screwed up and I got the Fox Factory 26 Grip2 fork upgrade for free so I ended up getting the X2 shock as well. I may regret getting the X2 (may be too complicated for me) but time will tell. I definitely built it up more as a "trail" bike. I had swapped most of my Ripley LS components over to this bike.

Highlights:
-L Black/olive Ripmo frame with '19 X2 shock and Factory 36 Grip2 fork. 
-XT 11 speed drivetrain 
-XT brakes 
-Race Face Next SL G4 crankset 
-E13 TRS cassette, 9-46
-KS Lev 175 carbon dropper (could have gone w/ another brand as I think a 200mm would fit; I'm just a hair over 6 feet tall)
-I9 270 wheelset with Bontrager XR4 tires (2.6"/2.4")
-WTB Volt Carbon saddle 
-Race Face Carbon Next 35 bars @ 760mm w/ RF 50mm stem
-Crank Bros eggbeater 2 peddles for now and will likely ride them for a while due to winter conditions (i.e. mud) but these were the only ones I had sitting around and will definitely change to Candy or Mallot at some point)
-side loader water bottle cage from Ibis store - can't remember brand
-Some clear "helicopter" type tape in key areas 
-ESI grips
-Cane Creek 40 headset

Weight = 27.8 lbs with pedals

CANNOT wait to ride!


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Great weight man! 

My L Foxy came in at 28.1# ( no pedals or cage) but with a 12 speed, a rear tire noodle. Also Avy cartridges on RS suspension which adds a bit of weight. 

Great job, I like seeing what's possible. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

deleted


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## williford (Dec 8, 2005)

Getting ready to order a Ripmo XL frame and indifferent on color...does anyone happen to know if either of the black or blue paint scheme is lighter?


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## Crossmaxx (Dec 2, 2008)

Black is definitely lighter. But blue is so much nicer.


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Crossmaxx said:


> Black is definitely lighter. But blue is so much nicer.


This. Right around 100g depending on the size. Black is painted, but not clear coated.
After having bare carbon and matte bikes for years I wanted the Gloss Blue. The paint looks even better in person too.


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## cgnreno (Oct 8, 2004)

alexbn921 said:


> This. Right around 100g depending on the size. Black is painted, but not clear coated.
> After having bare carbon and matte bikes for years I wanted the Gloss Blue. The paint looks even better in person too.


I liked the blue but ended up getting the matte black/olive. Not so much for the weight but my last Ibis was painted and did get some chips. I know it's inevitable but I've had such good luck with Ibis' matte frames over the years.


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## cgnreno (Oct 8, 2004)

I'm seriously thinking of ordering the new Shimano XTR micro spline drivetrain from R2-bike.com for my new Ibis Ripmo (see first post in this thread). 

Specifically, thinking of getting the XTR 12 speed rear derailleur, rear shifter, 10-51 cassette, chain, dropper remote and 2 piston brake set (no crankset). It looks like I can get it delivered for about $1000 but I have an email into the them to get price, availability and shipping info.

Questions:

1. Does anyone have any experience ordering from R2-bike? I believe they are based in Germany.


2. I really would like to order the 2 piston version of the brakes and upgrade my rear rotor to 180mm as I'm currently on XT brakes (2 piston) with 180/160 rotors as I switched over most of my stuff from my Ibis Ripley LS. I'm about 170 lbs in the buck and have really never "needed" more braking power except when I rode at a couple of bike parks (Mammoth and Northstar) last year. But I rarely ride parks and I may go once next summer at the most. I know this bike really "deserves" the enduro 4 piston brakes but they do weigh more. Any thoughts on going with the new XTR 2-piston version and then upgrading rear rotor to 180mm so I'd have 180mm front and rear as I already have an extra 180mm rotor sitting around somewhere? Or should I just go with the 4 piston versions?

3. I have the race face NEXT SL G4 crankset with RF cinch chain ring. Do you think there will be any compatibility issues in using this chain ring with the new 12 speed XTR micro spline set up? I wouldn't think so as I previously used this exact set up on an Eagle drivetrain and it worked fine.

Thank you in advance for any comments or suggestions.


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## jms (Feb 4, 2006)

cgnreno said:


> I'm seriously thinking of ordering the new Shimano XTR micro spline drivetrain from R2-bike.com for my new Ibis Ripmo (see first post in this thread).
> 
> Specifically, thinking of getting the XTR 12 speed rear derailleur, rear shifter, 10-51 cassette, chain, dropper remote and 2 piston brake set (no crankset). It looks like I can get it delivered for about $1000 but I have an email into the them to get price, availability and shipping info.
> 
> ...


I've used them a couple times. Great outfit. Very organized and accurate on weights, availability, ship quickly, etc. They have stuff, you won't see commonly available in the US.


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## cgnreno (Oct 8, 2004)

jms said:


> I've used them a couple times. Great outfit. Very organized and accurate on weights, availability, ship quickly, etc. They have stuff, you won't see commonly available in the US.


I ended up biting the bullet and ordered the Shimano 12 speed upgrade kit. R2 says that it was shipped today so fingers crossed.

I was torn between the 9100 2 piston brakes and the 4 piston 9120. As much as I've loved to have ordered the much lighter 2 piston version, I felt the Ripmo deserved the 4 piston version. I also ordered the new I-spec seat dropper lever.

I'm stoked as my current set-up pairing the e13 cassette and the XT 8000 shifter/derailleur isn't bad but not nearly as smooth as the full XTR setup I had from another bike.


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## newripmoowner (Jun 4, 2021)

HI there, 

I just bought a 2021 size small Ripmo. I'm 140 lbs, and my Ripmo weighs in at 31.8 lbs. I was wondering what would be the easiest way to lighten my bike. I'm considering a new wheel set, but curious which ones people would suggest, and then what else you would suggest. I'd love to get it down to under 30 lbs. Would love suggestions! Thanks!


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Wheels and tires are typically the easiest way to lose weight. What spec if your Ripmo?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

It's all about wheels and tires so spend your money and your weight savings there.
Then it's just about other parts that move, such as your handlebars and cranks.

Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


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## Taroroot (Nov 6, 2013)

newripmoowner said:


> HI there,
> 
> I just bought a 2021 size small Ripmo. I'm 140 lbs, and my Ripmo weighs in at 31.8 lbs. I was wondering what would be the easiest way to lighten my bike. I'm considering a new wheel set, but curious which ones people would suggest, and then what else you would suggest. I'd love to get it down to under 30 lbs. Would love suggestions! Thanks!


What is the current build?
Is this cost no factor? Riding style?
Wheels is the first thing. Next is cassette, cranks. "Easiest" is to get rid of dropper post.
After that its diminishing returns. Carbon bars, saddle. Pedals. Beyond that it gets into real WW gram shaving.
Rely on friends for tools and tubes, but theyll be annoyed at you.


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## hankj (Sep 17, 2016)

FWIW, I built up a beautiful Ripmo quite light, and rode it for 2 years. Because the Ripmo pedals so well, I thought that I could configure it to work well as a light trail bike as well as more of a big hitter.

In the end it was kind of a waste of money. I was trying to make the bike something it isn't, and it was never that fun using it to pedal around blue and green trails. In its soul it is a long travel trail/light duty Enduro bike, and as I added more and more heavy parts, wheels tires etc back to my Ripmo it felt better and better. It got more and more fun to ride, and better at doing what it was made to do. The extra three or four pounds did essentially nothing for the type of climbing the bike is supposed to do. Here in the Pacific Northwest that means sit your butt down and spin up something for several thousand vertical feet. In the lighter setup did I get to the top of a 2-hour climb 90 seconds earlier? Probably. Was it easier on the lighter bike? Not really. Maybe if I was sprinting or trying to KOM Strava or something. But overall the bike is just efficient and climbs well, perfectly fine if it weighs 33lbs or 27lbs.

I suppose it being lighter made it easier to chuck around here and there and side to side, but the dimensions of the frame aren't particularly set up for this type of riding, and it's not a poppy suspension setup. It's more of a quiet carver sort of ride, and so a little extra weight seems to actually help the bike sit down and dig in better when you want it to. And the Ripmo built up a little heavier just rode way better on chunky trails like for instance Christmas Valley in Tahoe, pinged around less.

By far my biggest donkey weight weenie move was putting high-end two piston brakes on this bike, and running 180mm rotors front and rear. Totally idiotic, have no idea what I was thinking. I got that sorted out to proper four piston brakes and big rotors, and wouldn't trade the extra 10oz for $1,000. The bike is built to be fully capable of getting into the gnarly s---, nothing sucks like being 2/3's of the way down a long double Black diamond track and knowing that your brakes just aren't cutting it. Terrible, such a dumb idea to skimp on break and power in the name of weight on a bike that can, if not race, ride an Enduro course.

I have nothing against two pot brakes, might use them again on my next bike. I'm in the process of moving to a smaller bike, better for easier trails. I'm looking to get out of the business of scaring the **** out of myself. I'm getting into my mid-50s reflexes are slowing down and I don't heal as fast anymore. Good quality two piston brakes on a downcountry bike? Sure. But there's just no good reason to be under-braked to save weight on a long travel bike.

Anyway, to each their own, if I had it to do over again stock GX would have been perfectly fine, and I would have spent the extra four grand on bitcoin or a whole another bike or something ....


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## Crossmaxx (Dec 2, 2008)

Agreed, and well written. My Ripmo sits at 33.1 lbs with coil suspension front & rear, CushCore Pro and proper stoppers, and I feel like I can go into any situation on the bike and feel confident that it will see me through it.


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## williford (Dec 8, 2005)

It is a versatile bike that can be fun with any build really. My XL was 28lb and was my favorite bike yet. A lightweight Ripmo can do everything except at the extreme edges of MTB: racing XC or DH/heavy Enduro. It is a true quiver killer bike. 
I have no doubt a 33lb Ripmo is also very fun and capable, but my 33lb Enduro is in another league of DH capability compared to a Ripmo, as a 170mm bike should be. Can it climb as well as my 28lb Ripmo? Not even close. But it wouldn't be too far behind a 33lb Ripmo going up.


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