# Shortening hydraulic hose - do I need special tools?



## turquoise (Jul 25, 2011)

I just got some new Avid CRs. The rear hose is absurdly long. Do I need a special tool to cut the hose, or will scissors work? I know I need a bleed kit and olive/barb, but if I can't cut the hose right then I'd have to get the job done at the shop.


----------



## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

I use the same cutter that I use for derailleur and brake cable. Seems like I've heard of people using razor blades.


----------



## Dad Man Walking (Sep 7, 2004)

Anything that gives a clean cut should work fine. A razor blade works great, and a sharp pair of wire cutting pliers (dikes) will also work. You'll crush the tubing just a bit, but you can open the hose up with an ice pick or some other sharp pointy thing, The ferrule/barb will open it back up completely and the compression fit of the olive and the nut will seal everything up. Don't over-think it.


----------



## Pooch (Apr 6, 2011)

I just trimmed the hoses on my bikes. I used my cable cutter and after finding out how easy it was, don't know why it took me so long.
I don't know about Avid as all my brakes are Formula but I didn't need a bleed kit. Just made sure to not press the brake lever once the hose was removed and kept the ends (brake and hose) up so no oil would leak out. Brakes work perfect.


----------



## Paul.C (Aug 13, 2011)

Cable cutters are best. Preferably those made for steel. They will give a clean cut and just use an awl to open the hole back up. I would bleed mine but I guess I am over thinking it.


----------



## robdeanhove (Dec 8, 2005)

Another vote for cable cutters here, a good clean cut avoids crushing the hose and the inner sleeve. I have the Shimano cutters and they're great for gear and brake cables as well as doing a great job on my brake hoses.

I guess a razor blade or sharp craft knife would work too, but there is a risk of crushing everything (or slicing your fingers open!)


----------



## turquoise (Jul 25, 2011)

*Encountered unknown part*

I attempted to do this over the weekend and it was a huge fail. When I removed the cable from the lever housing I wasn't sure how to remove the olive/barb. The end of the cable has a metal thingy (not the barb as it did not take a torx). I had the bleed instructions and there was no mention of this part. Additionally my brakes came with a new olive and barb, but not this other thing that sits on top of the olive. In hindsight I should have taken a photo. Any ideas on how to remove this and can I reuse it?


----------



## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

Does anything in the following photo look like what you are seeing?

https://bicycling.com/blogs/thestraightdirt/files/2011/06/Standard-hose-barb.jpg

or perhaps in this photo:

https://www.bicyclebuys.com/productimages/1428814.jpg

If we can nail down what you're looking at, the rest will probably fall into place.

Edit: Some further reading at the following link suggests you might be looking at a non-threaded barb.

Juicy | The Straight Dirt | MountainBike.com

If that's the case, then just cut the hose shorter since you want it shorter anyway, toss the bit with the non-threaded barb, and redo using the threaded barb.


----------



## turquoise (Jul 25, 2011)

JonathanGennick said:


> Does anything in the following photo look like what you are seeing?
> 
> https://bicycling.com/blogs/thestraightdirt/files/2011/06/Standard-hose-barb.jpg
> 
> ...


It looks more like the first photo, except it's dark grey and olive is silver. It does not have a torx head so I guess it is threadless. What's weird is the brakes (Avid Elixir CR '10) came with a spare threaded barb and olive. I'll follow your suggestion and just clip off the old fitting. Thanks


----------



## turquoise (Jul 25, 2011)

I used a utility knife with a new blade to cut the cable without any problems. The avid manual calls for 5.1 grease on the barb and compression fitting. I didn't know if my grease was dot 5.1 so I didn't use any. Interestingly, the brakes, brand new from avid, did not appear to have any grease on them. The compression fitting calls for a specific torque, but I don't have or have ever seen a torque wrench that takes an open ended wrench, so I just did it by feel - no leaks yet. I didn't re-bleed since I didn't have the kit and didn't feel like paying $60. I can feel a tiny amount of sponginess but still functional. The rear started squeaking bad after first ride.


----------



## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

turquoise said:


> The compression fitting calls for a specific torque, but I don't have or have ever seen a torque wrench that takes an open ended wrench, so I just did it by feel - no leaks yet.


You can buy claw-foot wrenches like this:

https://118.151.181.34/jp_images/images/catalogue/18537/t010003824099.jpg

They attach to the socket fitting on a torque wrench.

I just go by feel myself. Maybe someday I'll buy the claw-foot stuff, but for now I go by feel.


----------



## spacebull1 (Apr 24, 2012)

Paul.C said:


> Cable cutters are best. Preferably those made for steel. They will give a clean cut and just use an awl to open the hole back up. I would bleed mine but I guess I am over thinking it.


Yeah you're right they are made for steel..Because of that they are so good...:thumbsup:


----------

