# How accurate are Park Tools beam torque wrenches?



## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

And i'm referring to both the TW1 and TW2. So assuming my eyes are able to read the reading on the dial without fault, how accurate are these beam wrenches? I can't find a figure on them.


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## 4JawChuck (Dec 1, 2008)

Most beam torque wrenches are between 1-3% in accuracy, the middle third of the range is where they are closer to 1%. The only calibration a beam torque wrench requires is alignment of the zero mark, this is accomplished by tweaking the beam to align it.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

Thanks. Just for some perspective, how does this compare to high end dial type wrenches?


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## 4JawChuck (Dec 1, 2008)

They are all similar, the best thing about a beam wrench is if it reads zero and isn't physically damaged it will be accurate. A dial torque wrench can be out of calibration and it won't be obvious.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

This might sound stupid but couldn't the beam type be influenced by certain external factors such as, if it were really cold would it make the beam 'stiffer' so to speak and hence change the torque reading (vice versa)?


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## ShadowsCast (Mar 23, 2008)

It's possible, but given the range of temperatures found in nature vs the range steel can withstand before it's properties change, I imagine you wouldn't have any issues with that. Example, if the wrench was so hot as to make the beam more malleable, it would probably melt your hand when you went to use it. I doubt a normal range of temperatures found in a garage would mess up a beam wrench. 

On that note, I'd guess other types of torque wrenches are as, or more affected by temperature. Just a guess.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Beam type wrenches are VERY accurate, just not the most convenient.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

Well, accuracy is of highest concern. As long as it is accurate, then i am willing to buy a beam wrench. Has anyone ever had problems with the park tools beam wrench?


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

Quit worrying and just buy it. Park's wrench will outlive you.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Not the Park one, but I have an old KD I bought from a guy for ten bucks. I check it against my Snap ons and it's right on every time. The Park one is probably better.


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## hugh088 (Feb 1, 2004)

Over the long run the beam type will be more accurate then even the most expensive alternative. The internals of any other type is subject to wear, sticking, and other damage that is not obvious. Beam type, if the pointer is on zero and the beam is not obviouly bent it's going to be pretty accurate. If it not on zero adjust it manually till it is. Again it it's not obiously bent it will be good. Other type should be checked against a test bench, well who really knows. Most manufactures say once a year or less. Drop it and that may be out the window. Get it wet, who knows if it is rusted internally. 
Buy a rachet adapter for the beam type and it becomes much easier to use. Make sure you only pull on the handle to get an accurate reading.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

gmcttr said:


> Quit worrying and just buy it. Park's wrench will outlive you.


Haha, it's in my nature to do intensive research before purchasing an item.


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## sxotty (Nov 4, 2005)

hugh088 said:


> Buy a rachet adapter for the beam type and it becomes much easier to use. Make sure you only pull on the handle to get an accurate reading.


Who sells those besides snap on? (The ratchetor) I searched but did not find many options at all.

I have a large beam torque wrench and a smaller 3/8 one already, using the 3/8 to install spark plugs in my car was a living hell. I turned them a bit with the beam wrench then when I could not move it had to swap to a ratchet turn a 1/4 turn then put the beam wrench back on etc... And the torque increase was weird so I was worried about tightening too much with the regular wrench. Anyway an adaptor like you mentioned would have saved my bacon big time.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWG9HI...&tag=nextag-tools-tier4-delta-20&linkCode=asn
Is the one I found so far.


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## DavidNeiles (May 8, 2008)

I've been using Park's beam tool for years and it is always accurate and easy to use:thumbsup:


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Park's TW-2 beam, in the past, has been a rebadged model of the $19 Craftsman wrench (which was ~1/2 the cost). The Park branding also got you an inch-lbs scale in place of the Craftsman's ft-lbs. There was no Craftsman equivalent for the TW-1 when I checked; perhaps that's changed?

For low torques that the TW-1 covers, I perfer a dial indicator wrench, which gives you all the reliability & benefits of a beam wrench in a sealed, easier-to-read assembly.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

I discovered some torque wrenches at sears and i've found that the Craftsmen beam wrenches look quite similar to park tools. Are those beam wrenches just re-branded or are they produced by different manufacturers?

Wrench 1: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...s&cName=Mechanics+Tools&sName=Torque+Wrenches
Wrench 2: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...s&cName=Mechanics+Tools&sName=Torque+Wrenches
Wrench 3: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...s&cName=Mechanics+Tools&sName=Torque+Wrenches


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Your wrench #2, the 3/8 drive 0-75 ft-lb is the one I bought a number of years ago -- identical to the Park TW-2, USA made, the only difference being the graphics/scale.


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## DavidNeiles (May 8, 2008)

plus Craftsman tools now are not made in USA, Park ofcourse is = quality and accuracy


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## beereppc (Apr 25, 2007)

DavidNeiles said:


> plus Craftsman tools now are not made in USA, Park ofcourse is = quality and accuracy


yes, everything made in america is better. this is because americans work harder/are more intelligent/have better quality control right?


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## ShadowsCast (Mar 23, 2008)

DavidNeiles said:


> plus Craftsman tools now are not made in USA, Park ofcourse is = quality and accuracy


Source? Craftsman handtools are still made in the USA.



beereppc said:


> yes, everything made in america is better. this is because americans work harder/are more intelligent/have better quality control right?


There's a lot of other web forums that would probably appreciate your trolling a lot more.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

Well, it appears that the Craftsmen wrenches at sears are pick up only, and on their website also, problem is that i don't live in America. Know any other places and wrenches of equal or better quality than park tools, and equal or lesser in price that i can purchase from/in Australia?


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Snap on?


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

NYrr496 said:


> Snap on?


Yeah i had a look at them but all their equipment are like from $500 to a few thousand . Can't seem to find anything within the same value of Park and Craftsmen.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Looks like just temporarily unavailable for shipping.


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

The Park tools are available from most online bike shops. I'm not sure what the problem is.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

gmcttr said:


> The Park tools are available from most online bike shops. I'm not sure what the problem is.


Yep, bikebling had a TW-2 out same day for me this week. Speedub is probably referring to the Craftsman wrenches, which are all out of stock online and apparently aren't being sent out to stores either (my local one has been out of stock for a while)


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

Well, i decided to order the park tool wrenches (couldn't find any other alternatives in Australia), and i received them today.

Just curious, they say to calibrate, it's a matter of bending the beam to align with 0. There's two beams (obviously), i assume that the pointer beam (beam in the foreground) is the one you want to bend to 'deform' so that it would align with 0, and during use, that beam is the one that stays static to give you the reading. And the background beam is the one that 'flexes' during use, which i would imagine you would want no deformation to occur. However, because main beam is subjected to flex (which is the basis to how it gives you a torque reading), can this beam eventually deform? And would this cause permanent inaccuracy (which cannot be re-calibrated)?


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

It should not permanently deform when used as intended and within it's specified range.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

gmcttr said:


> It should not permanently deform when used as intended and within it's specified range.


I'd go a step further and say it WILL NOT -- steel is very predictable.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

How far past the dial would the pointer have to go that it would damage the main beam?


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

I don't think anyone can answer that unless they have done it with the model you have.

Taking the pointer past the markings on the scale is *not* using it as intended and within it's specified range.

It is a torque wrench and not a breaker bar. There is no need to ever go off the scale.

Do not abuse your tools and most of them will out live you.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

Ah ok. Well when i received the TW1, it wasn't initially calibrated, the pointer was off to one side about 2 inch/lb, so i re-calibrated it. I first did this by holding the (round) handle, and bending the pointer to the opposite direction (bending the pointer about an inch past the dial) but it was still not at 0. I then realized that doing this was also bending the main beam, so i did the 'screw driver leverage' method to bend the pointer beam (which bent the main beam less and the pointer beam more getting it to 0). But my first attempt... while holding the handle and bending the pointer past the dial, could this have flexed the main beam too much as to damaging the wrench's accuracy?


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## SurfHenk (Dec 13, 2005)

peternguyen said:


> could this have flexed the main beam too much as to damaging the wrench's accuracy?


While I am not familiar with the exact process to calibrate (put to 0) the Park Tool beam torque wrenches (I use clicker torque wrenches, non snap-on by the way), I would not worry too much about having altered the accuracy.
This because beam style wrenches function solely on the linear (up to a point) deflection of the beam. If you go past this point, the beam will permanently plastically deform. But even if you have managed to permanently plastically deform the beam, this will indeed have changed/corrected the "0"position but the elastic properties of the beam should remain constant.
In other words, permanently plastically deforming the beam will change the 0 position but should not change the deflection properties and therefore the accuracy.

Of course, this is only valid for minor plastic deformations. Once you deform the beam so much that it's cross-sectional shape is visually affected, or that the beam is visually bent, you will affect the deflection properties of the beam. But from what I read this certainly is not the case.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

Ah cool. Thanks.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

Just digging up my old thread... i've come to realize that there are a lot of bolts that are required to be tightened just above the range of torque indicated on the small Park Tool torque wrench. It only goes up to 60 in/lb, but there are many bolts that require a torque of 70, 80, 90 in/lb. This may sound silly but, if i tighten the bolt with the small wrench, pass the 60 mark to what _would _be 70 by judging the distance between the markers, would this be acceptable?

The alternative is to use the big Park Tool torque wrench, but the 0-100 range on that is at the very low end of the range of torque (out of 600 in/lb). Would the big wrench still be accurate in that low end of the torque range?


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

I own three torque wrenches to cover my bikes and car. You should expect to own more than one. Also, you need to worry less.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

A 150 in-lb dial indicator is peachy.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

peternguyen said:


> Just digging up my old thread... i've come to realize that there are a lot of bolts that are required to be tightened just above the range of torque indicated on the small Park Tool torque wrench. It only goes up to 60 in/lb, but there are many bolts that require a torque of 70, 80, 90 in/lb.


Isn't that annoying? For a long time, Park had a gap in their coverage--their beam-style wrenches do not together cover the range that one needs. Park now has a clicker-style torque wrench that covers that gap.

FWIW, I ended up buying an Effetto Mariposa Giustaforza torque wrench. It is expensive, but small, easy to use and store, and I like the simplicity of its design.



peternguyen said:


> This may sound silly but, if i tighten the bolt with the small wrench, pass the 60 mark to what _would _be 70 by judging the distance between the markers, would this be acceptable?


I did exactly what you suggest once. The result was that my beam would no longer go back to zero. I had to bend it way off the scale in the other direction to get the pointer to zero again. Since then, I've not taken the wrench beyond its intended range.



peternguyen said:


> The alternative is to use the big Park Tool torque wrench, but the 0-100 range on that is at the very low end of the range of torque (out of 600 in/lb). Would the big wrench still be accurate in that low end of the torque range?


My advice would be to buy a third wrench. You may find, like I did, that you then no longer need the TW-1.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

JonathanGennick said:


> My advice would be to buy a third wrench. You may find, like I did, that you then no longer need the TW-1.


That's a shame... I already thought that the Park Tool wrench was overpriced (but i couldn't get a craftman wrench because they don't ship to Australia) but to be overpriced and become useless? Would you happen to know where i can get a beam torque wrench in this middle range, that is available to Australia? For some reason, i can't find beam types anywhere here.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

peternguyen said:


> ...Would you happen to know where i can get a beam torque wrench in this middle range, that is available to Australia?


Peter, I don't know. Last time I went looking, all I could find for that middle range were the click-style wrenches.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200393426103

Dial indicators are nice because they operate on the same principle as beams -- ie, none of the maintenance requirements, innaccuracies or moving parts of clicker wrenches -- plus the dial allows you to monitor as the torque steadily builds.


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## 23mjm (Oct 22, 2005)

I own 3 clicker torque wrenches and they are all great. I have tried the beam type and don't like them (what is that really reading????) with the clicker you set it-it clicks your there. As far as clickers somehow being inaccurate--most all the mechanics I know all use clickers. When ever I see someone on TV working on something 99% are using clickers, Nascar, Indy Car, Worlds Toughest Fixes...... A few years ago I took all my clickers to get calibrated, and my 12 year old Craftsman was still in spec, in fact all of them were. I would get another Craftsman clicker in a heartbeat.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

I guess for other types of torque wrenches, it's just nice to see what the reading is all the way through. Clickers are no doubt convenient, but you can't be sure that it's accurate until the next time you calibrate it. Beams, you know if it's accurate each time because you can see where the pointer is resting.


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## 23mjm (Oct 22, 2005)

Can you prove clickers have a history of inaccuracy? They don't. Just because you can see the beam move doesn't mean it's right either. Both the Clicker and beam rely on the metal flexing to provide the reading, just in different ways.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

Well, didn't say they have a history of inaccuracy, just saying that there's is nothing there _visually _to see that it _is_ accurate (whether or not it is at that point in time).


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

23mjm said:


> Can you prove clickers have a history of inaccuracy? They don't. Just because you can see the beam move doesn't mean it's right either. Both the Clicker and beam rely on the metal flexing to provide the reading, just in different ways.


Clickers need to be re-calibrated from time to time.The problem is, unlike with a beam type wrench, you don't know when a clicker has drifted, and needs special tools to re-calibrate.


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## tomsmoto (Oct 6, 2007)

anyone ever see a calibration report from a good clicker torque wrench? if you have, you wouldnt be arguing about clicker calibrations. as much as people like to go nuts about torquing bikes, its not nearly (not even close!) to the importance of having equally tight head bolts on a fifteen thousand dollar modern engine, and those are reassembled constantly with high quality clickers. a slight drift in accuracy from a clicker on a bike is irrelevant, completely. if your torque wrench is extremely old, toss on another 5 inch lbs if you're that worried. even if its spot on and actually 5.0 inch lbs tighter, its still perfectly fine with zero consequences. 

if you have 150 bucks for a torque wrench, get a clicker. if you have 10-50 bucks for a torque wrench, get a beam. for most people a beam torque wrench just makes more sense for a bike.. anything better is overkill and wasted money. if you're making a living frequently torquing very expensive cars and equipment, you're going to want a clicker.


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## 23mjm (Oct 22, 2005)

bad mechanic said:


> Clickers need to be re-calibrated from time to time.The problem is, unlike with a beam type wrench, you don't know when a clicker has drifted, and needs special tools to re-calibrate.


Your really don't believe that do you?? Beam wrenches are a poor man's torque wrench. If you don't use yours much they are fine. But the Clickers are much nicer and easier to use. I was raised using clicked, but hey my dad only built sprintcar motors to put himself through Engineering School. He only used clickers.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

I only use clickers as well, but the fact is, they do need to be checked from time to time to make sure they're still calibrated, since it's not obvious if they're not. Don't think it doesn't happen either, I had a Craftsman which started over torquing due to a mechanical failure, and it stripped a couple bolts. Before I could end it in, it actually exploded. So yeah, I do believe it.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Beams and dials give you a visual indication all the way up to the desired torque setting.

Clickers don't, and at low torques and/or under slow tightening, a "soft click" can easily be missed resulting in a stripped thread.

Clickers are far more convenient in that there is no concern with finding an appropriate viewing angle for some oddly placed bolts. But for me, I'll stick with beams and dials for the lower-torque fasteners on my bikes, and save the clicker for automotive and other higher-torque applications.


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## SurfHenk (Dec 13, 2005)

Speedub.Nate said:


> Beams and dials give you a visual indication all the way up to the desired torque setting.
> 
> Clickers don't, and at low torques and/or under slow tightening, a "soft click" can easily be missed resulting in a stripped thread.


I fully agree with the first beam advantage. Untill you have reached the set torque, a clicker does not give you any information regarding the actual torque you have already reached.

Having said this, I must say that my experience is totally different from yours regarding missing the "soft click".
Both my low torque and medium torque clicker wrenches indicate very clearly when the set torque has been reached and I do not see how I could miss this. Reaching this point is not only audible, but also very visible due to the head of the wrench "clicking" into a rather strange-looking angle.
I of course only have experience with the torque wrenches I own myself, but I suppose your message shows that reliability/useability of a clicking torque wrench also depends on the quality and brand, not only regarding it's precision but also regarding it's indication that the set torque has been reached.


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## hugh088 (Feb 1, 2004)

*My votes still on the beam type for bike work.*



23mjm said:


> Can you prove clickers have a history of inaccuracy? They don't. Just because you can see the beam move doesn't mean it's right either. Both the Clicker and beam rely on the metal flexing to provide the reading, just in different ways.


Yes, just look at the manual that came with the wrench it will likely say to get it checked at some interval. Not proof enough many SnapOn and Mac tool trucks have a test unit on them. What to buy a test unit, its likely a beam arrangment with a dial indicator. Don't get stressed about the click type, if you treat it right it should be just fine for many years. the problem with them is you don't know if it has been knocked out of adjustment.


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