# What tool to remove XT cranks?



## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

My "put on a bash ring" project came to a grinding halt tonight for lack of a tool. I've a set of XT cranks on my bike. On the left side, there are two hex-bolts holding the crank arm onto the bottom-bracket spindle. However, there is also a weird, black, ring-like thing set into the end of the crank arm that I need to remove. It almost looks like a big Torx bit might do the job, but there are a few more splines than that. 

I'm thinking to order Park's BBT-9 tool. Is that the correct tool? Does Shimano have any tools that would work better than the Park?

p.s. I know, I wouldn't normally have to remove the cranks to slide on a bash guard, but I've gotten one of those thick, plastic guards that comes with longer crank bolts, and I can't sneak on those longer bolts without removing the little ring. And so a simple job once again turns into a major effort.


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## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

JonathanGennick said:


> I'm thinking to order Park's BBT-9 tool. Is that the correct tool?


Yep, the BBT-9 is the tool that you need.

The end cap that you need to remove is not torqued that tightly. You may be able to remove it using some other approach. E.g. you might try opening a long nose pliers in the hole to engage with two of the notches in the end cap.

Another nice tool is available from Enduro Fork Seals. See http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id122.html.


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## Bikinfoolferlife (Feb 3, 2004)

It amazes me why Shimano now only includes the TL-FC16 tool to take the cap off with the XTR and Dura Ace cranks, it's a piece of plastic that couldn't hardly cost them. I did get my XT's with one but that was a while ago; I also got the Shimano cup tool with mine. The BBT-9 is the way to go otherwise...


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

Fantastic. Thanks everyone. FWIW, I managed to get by tonight by borrowing a ratchet extension that allowed me to sneak in and and loosen the granny-ring bolts without actually removing that ring. Just having it loose gave me the bit of extra room that I needed. I've got bashguard on (an e.13), and all is well again with the world.

I'm still ordering the BBT-9 though. Sooner or later I'll need it. 

The irony here is that I recently bought a BBT-19 from my LBS. I went with that tool, because I can use it with my torque wrench to properly torque the bearing cups. Too bad it doesn't come with a cap tensioner like the Enduro tool.


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## Bikinfoolferlife (Feb 3, 2004)

If you have the BBT-19 then just get the Shimano tool (they do sell them, Jenson for $3). It is plastic, but mine's been hanging in there just fine since you only really finger tighten the cap anyways...


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

Bikinfoolferlife said:


> If you have the BBT-19 then just get the Shimano tool (they do sell them, Jenson for $3). It is plastic, but mine's been hanging in there just fine since you only really finger tighten the cap anyways...


Do you happen to know the exact name of that Shimano tool? Sometimes half the battle is knowing what something is called.


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## Bikinfoolferlife (Feb 3, 2004)

It's in my previous post...


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## adrenalnjunky (Jul 28, 2007)

The needlenose pliers method has worked fine for me.


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## solara (Sep 5, 2007)

Shimano TL-FC16 https://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/TL403B01-Shimano+Tl-Fc16+Installation+Tool.aspx

Park BBT-19 https://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/TL402B02-Park+Bbt-19+Bottom+Bracket+Tool.aspx

I like the BBT-19 over the BBT-9 because you can use a 3/8" torque wrench and tighten to the correct torque. And you can use it with a ratcheting wrench, etc.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

Thanks all. I'm ordering the Shimano tool. There's nothing like having the right tool. For $3.00, I'll buy it, no worries.

I agree about the BBT-19. I bought it over the BBT-9 precisely because I prefer to torque all the important bolts on my bike to spec. 

And now I wonder that cap needs to be torqued to any particular value. Does it? I suppose there's nothing for it but to visit Shimano's website for some documentation.


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## shishku (Jun 29, 2006)

Just finger tight. That is why the tool is small and plastic. All you are doing is preloading the bearings.


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## Bryguy17 (May 19, 2007)

FWIW, you should be able to unscrew the black tensioning ring you were speaking of by hand once the pinch bolts on the non-drive side are loosened (they snug down on the ring to keep it in when tightened). a BBT-9, while a useful tool, is a bit unnecessary for this job.

Also, If they're 08 XTs, you'll need a torx-30 wrench to remove the chainrings when you get to that point.


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## solara (Sep 5, 2007)

" Recommended torque setting for bottom bracket cups: 35 - 50 Nm
Recommended torque setting for crank arm adjustment cap: 0.4 - 0.7 Nm


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## Perpetrator (Jul 8, 2007)

Bryguy17 said:


> FWIW, you should be able to unscrew the black tensioning ring you were speaking of by hand once the pinch bolts on the non-drive side are loosened (they snug down on the ring to keep it in when tightened). a BBT-9, while a useful tool, is a bit unnecessary for this job.


The handle end of my Park cone wrench fit perfectly into the tensioning ring for my '08 XT's.:thumbsup: The '08's have the center cut out rather than solid.


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## globalmessenger (Jun 24, 2008)

Just amazes me that Shimano gives a torque spec for a tool (TL-UN95)that wont even mount to a torque wrench....Like, doesnt everyone know what .7 Nm feels like? 
Though I do prefer the shimano TL-FC33 Bottom Bracket removal tool, over the park BBT-9, as it mounts to a 1/2 inch ratchet, just like a socket, and you can use a torque ratchet on it , also it doesnt mark the surface finish. You can also use a really long handled ratchet on it if you have a difficult to remove BB cups. 
Just remember the reverse thread on the BB drive side 

Good luck


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## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

globalmessenger said:


> Just amazes me that Shimano gives a torque spec for a tool (TL-UN95)that wont even mount to a torque wrench....Like, doesnt everyone know what .7 Nm feels like?


Park Tool says that the end cap should be torqued to 4-6 inch-pounds. (I think Shimano specs it slightly higher.) I know that's not very tight, but I really didn't have a feel for just how _not tight_ that was until I used a torque wrench. It's really, really easy to over torque the end cap even when using your fingers.


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