# Quick release on a downhill/freeride bike



## Jake0521 (Jun 15, 2007)

With the post about the Azonic Rims I thought I would ask this question, my buddy just got the Azonic Outlaws for his Specialized Bighit. We put the front wheel on just fine but the back one the bolt was to big so it wouldn't slide in to the slot(not sure what exactly its called), so he had to use the quick release that came with the wheels, so my question to all of you with experience, is it ok to use the quick release or should he invest in some knew hubs that will let him us a bolt for the axel? we don't do any major downhill stuff mainly just freeriding and jumpin.


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## mrpercussive (Apr 4, 2006)

the rear hub of the OUtlaws is convertable... Just get a the Azonic Momentum axle and slot it in there...


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## crazy Jim (Mar 31, 2005)

I use a 9mm QR on the rear hub of my Stinky and have had no issues what so ever. The few that are especially hard core will benefit but I believe most people will be OK with it.


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## Mudd (Apr 22, 2002)

I've gotten rid of all my QR skewers. Replaced them with bolt-on skewers.
Not practical on FR/DH setups.


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## tahoefreeride (Apr 24, 2007)

You don't need to get a new hub, just get an axle that converts to fit into your dropouts. I definitely recommend getting the right axle instead of a quick release, it's much stronger and if your jumping you will get tired of broken QR's.


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## Dirtman (Jan 30, 2004)

Agree that a Qr on Fr/DH is not the ideal set up. I have the Outlaw wheelset as well. I p/u the Azonic momentum axle that converts the 12mm to 10mm so it will fit your drop outs. You will be happier with the stiffness of a bolt 10mm axle:thumbsup:


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Even if it's a QR, it's still a 10mm axle... But having a bolt-on is much more secure.


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## Dirtman (Jan 30, 2004)

XSL_WiLL said:


> Even if it's a QR, it's still a 10mm axle... But having a bolt-on is much more secure.


Correct. I was referring to the 9mm version that was mentioned.:thumbsup:


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## Guest (Aug 8, 2007)

funny, i should have taken a picture of the broken skewer i saw at the bottom of a drop this past weekend in mammoth.

skewers are good for cooking kabobs. they don't belong on a bike that is going to take abuse.


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## crazy Jim (Mar 31, 2005)

I've never broken a QR axle or Skewer and I've been jumping and breaking mountainbikes since 1992. Nor have I seen anyone break a QR axle. I generally ride pretty smooth but I do hit some fairly large DJs and the odd drop. Raced and got third at Final Descent last year. Spent a week DHing Vail and Keystone in '06 and another three days of runs at Keystone this year (hitting all the jumps and the middle drop at Drop Zone) as well as numerous other smaller venues on the same rear hub QR combination during the previous two years, so don't believe the nay sayers. On the other hand, I broke the first 10mm solid axle on the same day I installed it. I am going to Whistler next week with the QR on my Stinky so the real test is on.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Okay.. QR skewers still use a 10mm axle... the 10mm axle is just hollow so the skewer goes through it... The 10mm axle takes the brunt of the force... NOT the skewer...

Not all QR skewers are created equal.

Not all solid axles are created equal either.


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## Rb (Feb 28, 2007)

I won't re-iterate what Will said above, because he's pretty much 100% spot on.

I'd be amazed if anybody on these forums could tell the difference in "stiffness", "progressive-ness", or whatever other lame / you-think-it-sounds-cool term between a QR and a thru-axle.

In a double-blind test, I'd bet my bottom dollar that nobody here would be able to tell the difference when riding DH, hucking, jumping, etc. etc.

From the physics + material sciences standpoint, the differences would be negligible.

That Azonic rear thru-axle, or any thru-axle for that matter, shouldn't change anything. If for some reason you feel a thru-axle "inspires confidence", makes your bike feel "more progressive", or makes you ride faster/smoother than a QR skewer, then I'm sorry, but you're an idiot. 

If you're breaking QR skewers, changing to a thru-axle doesn't help you much. Chances are, you're just simply not a smooth rider. Or, buy better skewers.

Just my 2 cents.

And in case anybody wants to call me out on this, we can conduct a little experiment if you wish. I have a set of 06 DeeMax's with a bolt-on axle and my Halo SAS's with an average Salsa skewer. I certainly can't tell the difference. But if you think you can, feel free to stop by and we can set something up. Bring your wallet, too.


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## gwillywish (Jul 1, 2005)

oddly enough, the only time i break qr axles is when xc racing, and i primarily ride street 

btw, i prolly wouldn't have got through the race if it wasnt for my salsa skewer
i run solid axle on the rear, but only because of horizontal dropoouts on my ht


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## Mudd (Apr 22, 2002)

Went with an "allen-key skewer" on the back of the Nomad. Front is 20mm.


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## suicidebomber (Feb 10, 2007)

Ray Bao said:


> I won't re-iterate what Will said above, because he's pretty much 100% spot on.
> 
> I'd be amazed if anybody on these forums could tell the difference in "stiffness", "progressive-ness", or whatever other lame / you-think-it-sounds-cool term between a QR and a thru-axle.
> 
> ...


So what you mean, Ray, is just pick your poison? QR or Thru-axle, it makes no frickin' difference?


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Only benefit to bolt-on or TA is clamping force. This is very nice if you have horizontal drops. I suppose that the additional clamping force in addition to more contact with the dropout with a bolt-on or thru-axle can reduce torsional flex to an extent. But I don't think the difference would be that noticeable.


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## todd_freeride (Aug 9, 2005)

I ride pretty hard on a QR skewer and its fine. it just went on its 2nd 3 day trip up to whistler. not many places are as hard on hubs and wheels as whistler. lots of rocks and quite a few good drops and jumps. I think you'll be fine. depends on if your dropouts are horizontal or if vertical dropouts are a little short. on my DH bike the dropouts go in pretty deep (vertical) but my komodo (AM/FR hardtail) the dropouts are a little shallow which worries me a little for fear of not as much tension on there, might pull out some day. But I'm pretty sure you'll be fine.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Mudd said:


> Went with an "allen-key skewer" on the back of the Nomad. Front is 20mm.


May as well use QR unless you are saving weight. I do use those on my lighter bike.


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## Rb (Feb 28, 2007)

suicidebomber said:


> So what you mean, Ray, is just pick your poison? QR or Thru-axle, it makes no frickin' difference?


Yes.

Unless you have a horizontal dropout (already brought up) in which case you'd want a bolt-on axle's clamping power for chain tension.


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## crazy Jim (Mar 31, 2005)

Mudd said:


> Went with an "allen-key skewer" on the back of the Nomad. Front is 20mm.


 A buddy uses that and it will not stay tight.


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## euroford (Sep 10, 2006)

thanks for the tip on the azonic momentum axle.

(i lock up in the city, about the only reason i want to get rid of my QR)


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## suicidebomber (Feb 10, 2007)

I run QRs on both front and rear. I have given it as much abuse a beginner could muster up his guts for, and it hasn't given up. 

Probably I would use a better hub as an upgrade, but its 50/50 I could be using a thru axle route. We haven't broken any QRs despite our hard riding...


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## DLd (Feb 15, 2005)

*10mm solid axle Q/R*

I run these and have had no problems. Seems like the shiznit to me if your bike has standard 10x135 rear dropouts. Strength of a thru axle, convenience of a QR. Stiff. Haven't tried a regular QR rear wheel on the bike for comparison though.

https://www.transitionbikes.com/2007/images/Gallery_RevolutionWheelsetHubcloseup.jpg


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