# Transition - new 24" miniature all mountain rig



## dc40 (Oct 4, 2013)

First Look: 4 New Bikes From Transition - Eurobike 2014 - Pinkbike

*Ripcord*

Transition has built up a strong band of followers over the years, and many of those riders are also parents. Well, now there's a Transition for the groms, a full-suspension bike that uses 24" wheels and a 100mm 26" fork to create a miniature all-mountain rig. With a low standover and handlebar height, the Ripcord could be a good option for those hard chargers who aren't quite tall enough for a small 26" bike, but are deserving of a bike that won't hold them back. The final price isn't set in stone, but expect it to be somewhere around the $1500 USD mark.


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## 501 (Jan 27, 2007)

the Little guys bike looks awesome as do the others! looks like one of my little ones will be on the Ripcord!! 

do you have an eta on the Ripcord?


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## Jim Mac (Jun 29, 2004)

1500 is not a bad price, either.


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## GSJ1973 (May 8, 2011)

Jim Mac said:


> 1500 is not a bad price, either.


Looks like the price is going up (now $1699.00) and spec is changing on the website. Transition needs to think twice about the 165mm cranks while they are at it. Anyone know about Jalco rims? Hopefully they are light!


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## dlc (May 27, 2009)

Really want to see the overall weight. Under 25 seems hard with this bike.


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## boomforeal (Nov 9, 2005)

bump - anyone bought or seen one of these in the flesh?


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## string (Jan 13, 2004)

Have not seen but I happened to email dropnzone about availability & was told March (hopefully)


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## string (Jan 13, 2004)

bump - drop n'zone has the ripcords in stock. I will have one in a few days to play with. (will maybe not me..but my son)


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## dc40 (Oct 4, 2013)

lucky kid... I purchased a bike from drop-n-zone last year, great customer services.


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## tomson75 (May 25, 2014)

The Transition site says it uses a 26" fork "for easy upgrades, but no details. Anyone have the scoop as to whether or not the rear needs to be swapped out to throw 26" tires on there?


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## tomson75 (May 25, 2014)

string said:


> bump - drop n'zone has the ripcords in stock. I will have one in a few days to play with. (will maybe not me..but my son)


Give us a review when you get hooked up?

Found this from last year.

Grom Patrol | Coming Down the Pipe for Grom Bikers in 2015

Really like the Ripcord, but I'm waiting to hear from Transition as to the ability to upgrade to 26" tire/wheels.


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## dc40 (Oct 4, 2013)

the easy upgrade is for fork option/replacement... not to upgrade the bike to 26".


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## tomson75 (May 25, 2014)

dc40 said:


> the easy upgrade is for fork option/replacement... not to upgrade the bike to 26".


Gotcha...the way they worded it:

"We have based the design around a 100mm travel 26" fork and a standard size rear shock so you have plenty of upgrade options down the road."

...led me to believe it did. Probably wishful thinking on my part.

Oh well...there are a couple of other options that will.


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## boomforeal (Nov 9, 2005)

i think the fact that the ripcord is 24" specific is what makes it special. "upgradeable" to 26" wheels means longer chainstays than necessary, and a compromise in bb height with either 24" or 26" wheels. by the numbers, the bike is no-compromise shredder


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## GSJ1973 (May 8, 2011)

boomforeal said:


> i think the fact that the ripcord is 24" specific is what makes it special. "upgradeable" to 26" wheels means longer chainstays than necessary, and a compromise in bb height with either 24" or 26" wheels. by the numbers, the bike is no-compromise shredder


I agree, going the 24" and 26" down the road there are compromises both ways. Via 24", the chainstay length at 420mm is REALLY long. I mean come on, there are now 27.5" bikes approaching that length now. With 26" the BB will likely be really high.

It looks like Transition has it pretty close to ideal with the short stays and low standover. The build though at $1700 is a hefty 29.5 pounds as reported by a few already. Waiting for a frame only option, they need to offer this so parents can build them lighter. No way would my 55 pounder be able to really enjoy a bike this heavy without putting it on a serious diet.  I mean its more than half his body weight!

Looking forward to seeing some of the builds parents will do with these bikes to make them lighter.

The new Norco 4.3 also looks like a great option - https://www.norco.com/bikes/mountain/trail/fluid/fluid-43/ they also make a 26" fully as well.


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## string (Jan 13, 2004)

Got the Ripcord in yesterday. The stock build looked better than I thought and came in around 29.5 lbs. I was already planning on upgrading from parts I had ready to go (was looking at another frame only option but needed something sooner for my sons birthday). I have not tried to put a 26 wheel in but will give it test, however I am 99.9% sure there is no way it will fit. The stays are short. The standover should be excellent as the frame looks tiny on my work stand. There were a few smaller details not in the specs that transition did a good job on. (like 10mm axles)

I really wanted the frame only and am swapping out most of the parts. Had I not been stock piling parts I would most likely have gone with the stock build other than a few items.

With that said, I have replaced the fork with a Fox float 100mm CTD FIt (brand new 2013...gotta love 26" deals). Also replacing the drive-train with a zee clutch derailuer, xt shifter with opitcal display (my son still likes to look at the gear he is in), ditching the chain guide and going with canefield 155mm cranks and a wide narrow ring. Also replacing the wheels and tires with a set I had already built before I ordered the transition (Hope Pro 2 hubs laced to alienation deviant rims). Lastly replacing the stock shimano brakes with some Hope M4's I already had sitting around (I think hope has one of the best reach adjustments for smaller hands). 

The Kenda Kinetics are meatty tires. I have not weighed yet but they are pretty heavy from what I ready. I have a set of Maxxis Snypers mounted but am not thrilled with the lack of nobs and how skinny they are even mounted to 25mm rim. Its more of a xc race tread and I wish they had added a bit more side nobs and volume. I would like to find some Schwalbe fat alber 24's but they have been out of stock.

I have to finish the build by Friday but have done everything other than the cranks (need an ISiS crankpuller...didn't know they still made that interface...) and bleed the hopes after shortening the hose. Will post some pics when done.

Paint looks better in person. Can't wait to try it out (or at least watch it tried out)


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

What's with the 'swapping to 26" wheels" In that grompatrol article?

Why would you want to do that? 
Swapping wheels will NOT make the bike fit bigger, reach and stack stay the same, which are the dimensions that define bike fit.
Putting bigger wheels will raise the bottom bracket, and stand over,never a good thing.


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## string (Jan 13, 2004)

Tjaard said:


> What's with the 'swapping to 26" wheels" In that grompatrol article?
> 
> Why would you want to do that?
> Swapping wheels will NOT make the bike fit bigger, reach and stack stay the same, which are the dimensions that define bike fit.
> Putting bigger wheels will raise the bottom bracket, and stand over,never a good thing.


I think the reason for wanting to convert to 26" at some point in the future is the ability is to stretch another year or two out of an expensive kids bike before its out grown. I bought ours strictly as a 24 but it would be cool to have the option to convert in the future. Knolly used to offer an upgrade program where you purchased a new rear to increase the size. Of course this was staying 26" not changing wheel size but I would have no problem paying to convert if Transition ever offered it. (they just need to make a 26" ripcord in xs  that has some interchangeable parts)


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## tomson75 (May 25, 2014)

Tjaard said:


> What's with the 'swapping to 26" wheels" In that grompatrol article?
> 
> Why would you want to do that?
> Swapping wheels will NOT make the bike fit bigger, reach and stack stay the same, which are the dimensions that define bike fit.
> Putting bigger wheels will raise the bottom bracket, and stand over,never a good thing.


Not everyone has the time/income to support this habit beyond the trail, especially with three or more kids. It would be beneficial to some of us to sacrifice "optimal geometry" to be able to get more use out of a $2,000 investment. I'm looking for something with some flexibility to allow me to get my 10yo on a 24" that he'll likely outgrow by next year. If he could stretch it another year, I could then pass it down to his younger sister, and then his younger brother as the older kids move on to more "fitting" bikes. Options are extremely limited for this age group, and I don't have a lot of time to spend building bikes.


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

*wheel size swap*



tomson75 said:


> Not everyone has the income to support this habit ....


Absolutely, if you can make a bike fit a growing child for a longer time, that's great.



tomson75 said:


> ...to sacrifice "optimal geometry" to be able to get more use out of a $2,000 investment.


The point that people seem to be missing here is that changing wheels *does not change geometry*(at least not crucial fit related geometry). It has nothing to do with sacrificing _optimum_ fit or handling. It simply doesn't help.

Obviously stack and reach don't change if you swap wheels.
If you are unfamiliar with the stack and reach system give google a shout.

If you want to feel it to believe it try this:
Put your kid's bike in a trainer. Try riding it. It's too small right?
Now, put some boards or blocks under the trainer and front wheel and try riding it now. Does it fit any better? Of course it doesn't, everything you touch is still the same.
Yet, raising the bike of the floor is the exact same geometry change you would get by switching to a larger wheel.

Perhaps the reason this misconception is so persistent is an error of causality:
We see bikes with small wheels which fit small kids and we see bikes with big wheels which fit big people, so we think: _"big wheels must make a bike fit bigger people"_
The mistake of course is that it's not the big wheels that make the bike fit bigger people.

If you want maximum 'growth range' out of a bike, start with a bike with a very low bottom bracket and very short cranks. Then select the bike with the biggest stack and reach that still has sufficient standover.
Then, throw on a narrow handle bar, super short and slammed stem.
After the child grows, you raise the saddle, using a longer seatpost if necessary, use a longer stem with all the spacers underneath, and perhaps a wider bar.

These changes will actually make the bike *FIT* better, unlike a wheel change. As a side benefit they are about 15% of the cost of a set of wheels and tires.


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## tomson75 (May 25, 2014)

Tjaard said:


> Absolutely, if you can make a bike fit a growing child for a longer time, that's great.
> 
> The point that people seem to be missing here is that changing wheels *does not change geometry*(at least not crucial fit related geometry). It has nothing to do with sacrificing _optimum_ fit or handling. It simply doesn't help.
> 
> ...


I didn't mean to suggest that changing wheel/tire size would alter the geometry. Perhaps I should have clarified that the rider would have to sacrifice optimal geometry either initially, or after the rider has outgrown the frame....depending on whether the bike purchased was a good fit to start, or purchased with a good fit in mind down the road.

I understand the concepts here, but it doesn't change the underlying issue for me, and that's money. Being able to throw a set of 26's to help with rolling speed and clearance would, at least theoretically, buy some time...albeit without a great fit.

That bolded part is very beneficial information, and I'll use this as I try and hone in on the right bike for my kids...but I'd still like to find something with just a little more versatility. Specialized is marketing a Grom bike that changes wheel sizes, but it's about $500 bucks out of my price range.

It looks like I'll have to pay closer attention to BB and crank sizes as well...

Cheers!


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

tomson75 said:


> I understand the concepts here, but it doesn't change the underlying issue for me, and that's money. Being able to throw a set of 26's to help with rolling speed and clearance would, at least theoretically, buy some time...albeit without a great fit.
> Cheers!


Aha, I had not considered that.
From the way I read your' and others' posts, it seemed to imply that people were thinking that swapping in bigger wheels would make the bike usable for a longer time for a growing child, which I took to mean *fit *a bigger kid.

I shouldn't have made assumptions like that, we all know what assume stands for....

I guess my view is that if money is the issue, spending a lot of money on a new wheelset and tires seems seems like a lot of money spent, simply for some better roll-over capability and perhaps some rolling resistance gains. Especially since those gains are offset by higher weight, worse center of gravity and less standover. 
All that, and it would be something only used for a short time.

I like, and ride, 29ers, but in all honesty the difference from 26" was not night and day.
So for me personally, if my kid was at the larger end of fitting on their 24", I wouldn't spend the money just to cram wheels 2" larger into it for one year or so.

*On a different note, Trek is offering a kids bike, the FuelEX Jr with 26 wheels, basically the 29er under the 24" wheeled bikes 

So, if you value 26 much higher than 24", that might be just the ticket.*

Fuel EX Jr - Trek Bicycle


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

*kids bike geometry*

Here are a couple of kids (and one xs women's) bikes.

Transition	Juliana	Trek	Specialized Islabikes
Ripcord Origin	Fuel ex Jr	Camber Grom Beinn 24"

stack	503	547	519	547 500
reach	366	364	381	388 340

standover	576	689	653	621 600
chainstay	381	424	429	420 390

BB height	309	312	316	291 245
effectibe BB	284	287	294	264 245

cranklength	165	?	?	170 140

travel	100	100	90	110 rigid
wheelsize	24	27.5	26	24 24

Notes:
*Standover* is the most critical, too tall is too tall. Unfortunately it is a very unreliable number from bike websites, as it depends where you measure it. So, take that number with a big grain of salt.

*Stack* and *reach* are the real numbers that determine fit. Of those reach is probable the most critical one, since bars a bit high is not the end of the world.

The Syntace Dropforce stem can really help with that. It's quite short and super low:
Syntace

Pedal *stance width* is very important but no site lists it.
*Crank length* is also a big issue, but not every site mentions it.
Think about a child 2/3 of and adult's height, to get a similar feel, they should have a crank that's 2/3 as long, ie 117 mm long.
Shorter cranks prevent rock strikes, allow for more normal pedaling motion, better technical riding out of the saddle and most importantly, allow for a low bottom bracket.

*Bottom bracket height*:
Lower bottom brackets make a bike more stable, easier to flick from left to right hand cornering and most importantly, allow kids to get their feet on the ground without setting their saddle to low.
*Effective bottom bracket height* is bb height after sag, in other words while riding.

*Chainstay length*:
Shorter stays make pumping and manualing easier, crucial to young riders developing feel for the bike and skills.
They also keep the riders center of gravity back, important on these tiny frames with very short front centers.


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

*geo per bike*

Transition Ripcord:
*Great:*
-chainstay length. Very nice and short. If you are going to have tiny wheels, you might as well have tiny stays.
*Good:*
-standover, if these numbers are accurate, this is the best one.
-stack, nice and low in case your rider needs that, you can always raise it.
-shortest reach. Not better per se, but it's smallest bike on here that gets you full suspension and at least 24" wheels.
-most trail (slackest head angle). Given their weight, none of these are xc race bikes, and due to their small wheels and short wheel base they don't have a ton of high speed stability anyway.
*Neutral:*
-cranks, too long, but no worse than the others.
-bottom bracket height, again, if you have a short rider, and a short travel bike you can give them short cranks and drop that bracket down.

Notice how the other 2 full suspension bikes are really similar in geo to an adult 27.5 bike? Save for standover and seattube length.
So, another option to consider is to put get a 24" wheelset for an adult bike for a while if standover is to high for the kid.


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## tomson75 (May 25, 2014)

Thanks Tjaard, that's very helpful.


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## string (Jan 13, 2004)

Got the ripcord built up last week. Turned out pretty nice. There was not too much wrong with the stock spec build (cranks too long and saddle to long...covered more of the top tube than I would have liked) but since I had the parts I figured might as well upgrade. I also cut the handlebars from 27" to 25" and am still playing with the hope levers (the older tech levers don't play well with the optical gear display). droped the weight from around 30lbs to 26lbs. 

The stock Kenda kinetics turned out to be a folding version and weighed in around 690 grams (nicer tires than I anticipated). I have some schwalbe Fat Albert 24's on the way for a tubeless meatier option (although the Kenda's are better than I thought so might send back). The Maxxis snypers are a little narrow and could use a little bit bigger knobs in my opinion. 

Couple pics...pretty sure one could not fit a 26" in the rear.


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

Nice bikebling! The blue spokes rock! And that weight is great for a full suspension bike with high end but not crazy parts.


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## string (Jan 13, 2004)

Tjaard said:


> Nice bikebling! The blue spokes rock! And that weight is great for a full suspension bike with high end but not crazy parts.


Thanks, I was building the wheels for a black frame and then the blue on the transition came along as a bonus. The spokes added some weight but sometimes you just have to go for looks. :thumbsup:


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## stom_m3 (Jun 28, 2011)

String - do you have a build thread or a list of changes you did on the bike? How's your kid liking it. It would be interesting to have kids do a back to back review of the Ripcord and Norco Fluid.


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## string (Jan 13, 2004)

Here is the build comparing to stock. Not a lot of ride time yet between school, weather, & commitments but I think he will like it. Adapting to the bigger frame is a bit intimidating at first.


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## boomforeal (Nov 9, 2005)

string said:


> Adapting to the bigger frame is a bit intimidating at first.


that's always been my experience with my son - every time he steps up to a bigger frame there's a short term step back in confidence. the jump in frame size from his 20" wheeled bike to the ripcord was substantial, and he didn't blink an eye. especially on the dh, he was riding faster and hitting things with more confidence right away. i think whatever issues the increase in size may have introduced, the geometry more can compensated for


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## string (Jan 13, 2004)

Final build swapping out the Maxxis Snypers for Schwalbe Fat Albert R. Added about a pound a ton of tread. 

I tried mounting tubeless but could not get the schwalbe's to mount with the Deviant Rims using stans tape. A 24' tubeless rim strip might work but have not found one and didn't want to guinea pig my son by making one. It was a very loose bead which makes me think the deviant might be a little undersized.

We will get the first real ride this weekend.


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## FreeHeelFreeRide (Mar 18, 2005)

Wow, looks great. I'm impressed with the weight too. Thanks for sharing, look forward to the post-ride report.


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## dc40 (Oct 4, 2013)

nice build!!!


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## Right seat driver (May 25, 2014)

string said:


> Final build swapping out the Maxxis Snypers for Schwalbe Fat Albert R. Added about a pound a ton of tread.
> 
> I tried mounting tubeless but could not get the schwalbe's to mount with the Deviant Rims using stans tape. A 24' tubeless rim strip might work but have not found one and didn't want to guinea pig my son by making one. It was a very loose bead which makes me think the deviant might be a little undersized.
> 
> We will get the first real ride this weekend.


Any chance you got a weight on the frame/shock only? 
I emailed Transition and got a "we don't know." 
My 6yr old son is on a 18.5lb bike I built him but would like to get him some rear suspension if it actually works and doesn't weigh a ton.


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## Gorman (Nov 17, 2012)

Right seat driver said:


> Any chance you got a weight on the frame/shock only?
> I emailed Transition and got a "we don't know."
> My 6yr old son is on a 18.5lb bike I built him but would like to get him some rear suspension if it actually works and doesn't weigh a ton.


I was wondering the same thing....LOL!!!! BTW, what kind of 18lb bike did you build him?


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## boomforeal (Nov 9, 2005)

my (our?) 2 month review of the ripcord: Reviewed: Transition Ripcord - NSMB.com


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## dbabuser (Jan 5, 2004)

Tjaard said:


> Think about a child 2/3 of and adult's height, to get a similar feel, they should have a crank that's 2/3 as long, ie 117 mm long.


Everything else you said is fairly reasonable, but 117 is a super short crank. Kids aren't generally 100% scaled down adults, I think in general, their legs are longer proportionally to their torsos. Except my son, he's built just like a lego man. Hope he grows out of that...


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## gtrguy2 (May 17, 2015)

string said:


> The stock Kenda kinetics turned out to be a folding version and weighed in around 690 grams (nicer tires than I anticipated).


I'd like to get some of those Kendas for my son but I don't see them on the Kenda site and they don't appear in the 2015 bicycle tire catalog either... maybe they are an OEM only model?

Currently he's got the Snypers but they could use a bit larger tread in my opinion...


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

is it a standard 20 spline BB tool you need to remove the ISIS BB or one of the 8 spline ones. got the 20 spline.


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## Right seat driver (May 25, 2014)

Does anyone have have a frame weight?


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## catch22 (Apr 30, 2004)

Right seat driver said:


> Does anyone have have a frame weight?


I ordered one of the 2015s for our daughter and got it today. She's not getting it til her birthday in January and in the meantime I'm pulling everything apart, getting weights, trying to figure out where the biggest potential savings will be, and then plan to build up with some lighter options. Frame with shock, headset, and seat QR came to 2400 grams on a Park DS1 (I'm assuming it's fairly accurate). The RS XC 32 fork was 2140 grams with steerer cut to 6" so it's definitely a goner. I'm going to try to put a spreadsheet together with all the weights and can try to post up if anyone wants to see it.


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## Szy_szka (Oct 29, 2015)

catch22 said:


> I ordered one of the 2015s for our daughter and got it today. She's not getting it til her birthday in January...


Noooo, that's almost like torture! How can you manage to hide it from the kid for THAT long?


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## Smurf (May 10, 2006)

@catch22 - I'd really appreciate a copy of the spreadsheet. I've just bought a ripcord for my eldest in the 2015 clearance sales (in the UK) and I plan to swap out a few parts so the component weight would be really helpful to know.

I build a custom Scott Spark 20 Jr for when she was younger - build thread is here - Build report - custom Scott Spark 20 Junior « Singletrack Forum.

The information on MTBR threads was a big help when building that bike.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

wheels 2kg
fork 2kg
BB 310g
crank will weight it after work
seat post - not a clue as I put a reverb on
tyres 760g
tubes ~170g IIRC
kept saddle
didn't weigh cassette, mech or shifter but swapped to zee shifter, slx mech and XT 10sp cassette so probably saved a few grams but not much
stem ~ 145g 
bar ~ 220g

the biggest bits are the wheels and forks. think I saved ~ 780g swapping them


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## catch22 (Apr 30, 2004)

I'll get the full list I've got up tomorrow. I weighed everything with a postage scale last week so it should be a fairly accurate list. Poah is right on about fork and wheels being a huge opportunity to drop weight. Cranks need to go because of length so I'm considering options there. Really want to go with a two piece crank with external BB but 104 bcd options are really hard to come by. Tires also could see a big drop with a swap to the Schwalbes.


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## Smurf (May 10, 2006)

Thanks Poah and catch22.

I managed to get a pair of ZTR crest 24" rims on ebay (clearance sale) and I've a spare pair of 240s hubs so they will be going off to be built as soon as I can find a box for them.

Tyres - I've not done much homework yet but in Europe Bike24 - Online Shop - Cycling, Running, Swimming, Triathlon - Bike parts, Racing Cycles, Mountainbike (MTB), Bike Wear, Sportswear has good deals on quite a few 24" tyres.

Looks like a swap of bar (spares box - Easton MonkeyLite c.135g), stem and possibly grips will lose a bit of weight as well.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

The ones at £25 each - I missed that by minutes lol 

crank 752g
r mech 290g
cassette 446g
chain 262g
shifter 162g
sear post 256
f brake 288g (caliper, hose & lever)


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## catch22 (Apr 30, 2004)

Well, here's what I've got. My weights all seem really close to Poah so I think we can assume these are all pretty close. I included a bunch of notes I've made regarding possible changes and weight savings. I likely won't do all of this (at least right away) but there is potential to save well over 3000g from the stock build and have the complete around 22-23 lbs. At this point I was just shooting for 25lbs but we'll see where it ends up once all is finished.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

The hubs are novatec


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## catch22 (Apr 30, 2004)

I can't find a weight listing for these anywhere but I suspect they'll be right in line with most other mid level two piece alloy cranks. I really wanted to get away from square taper or ISIS BBs and this gets that done but sticks with 104bcd at a pretty good price. Lots of size options as well but I went with the 135mm. With all the charts out there it's a tough call but I figure at 73 inches tall I'm comfortable on a 175, If I used that ratio for her (probably 53" or so come spring) that a 135 should suit her well for a couple years. Web coupon knocked the cost down 15%. I'll get some weights up whenever they arrive:
GT Speed AL Cranks at J&R Bicycles


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## Smurf (May 10, 2006)

@poah and catch22 - many thanks!

I can get cracking now on looking through the spares box and sort out some weight saving changes without also having to weigh all the stock parts.

Bike should be with me on Wednesday. Looking forward to seeing it.


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## catch22 (Apr 30, 2004)

catch22 said:


> I can't find a weight listing for these anywhere but I suspect they'll be right in line with most other mid level two piece alloy cranks. I really wanted to get away from square taper or ISIS BBs and this gets that done but sticks with 104bcd at a pretty good price. Lots of size options as well but I went with the 135mm. With all the charts out there it's a tough call but I figure at 73 inches tall I'm comfortable on a 175, If I used that ratio for her (probably 53" or so come spring) that a 135 should suit her well for a couple years. Web coupon knocked the cost down 15%. I'll get some weights up whenever they arrive:
> GT Speed AL Cranks at J&R Bicycles


Got the GT crankset from J&R today and gotta say I'm very happy with them. Box included the crankset and the anodized blue external BB (looks like it's a Shimano Deore by the markings/seals) and ano blue chainring bolts. Cranks/ chainring bolts are 558 grams and the external BB is 105 grams. Add a 30t N/W ring and it should be right at 693 grams for the setup vs 1102 grams for the stock setup (737 for cranks/bolts/chainring and 365 for the BB).

Also got some 24 hole gold straight pull Koozer hubs off ebay that have the following weights:
173 front
286 rear
85 skewers
Stans Crest 24h 24" rims are also in and they are coming in at 320 grams per rim.

Estimated weight for the Koozer hubs to Crests with DT comps and alloy nips is coming in right at 1400 grams vs 2069 for the stock wheels.

Picked up 3 Schwalbe Rocket Rons and those averaged 431 grams each. A pair at 862 grams vs the stock Kendas at 1522 offers some huge weight savings.

All in all the full tubeless wheelset with tires mounted should be around 2448 grams. That's 1670 grams (3.68 lbs) saved over the stock setup!

Still working on a fork and debating whether I want to mess with pedals, guide, bars, stem, or post.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

wtonh thread


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## Smurf (May 10, 2006)

Thanks for the update. You could look for an Easton monkeylite SL on ebay and match with a KCNC flyride stem. 25.4mm parts are much cheaper and often lighter.

I think that would save quite a bit of weight.


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## catch22 (Apr 30, 2004)

I finally have this build mostly together and definitely happy with how it turned out. As pictured it's 23.6 lbs. At this point the only changes I've got planned are to put some other pedals on, just not sure which ones I'm going to go with yet. I had a set of Mallets sitting around so I put those on so I could ride it around and make sure everything was in working order. Everything was pretty straightforward with the build but I would try to avoid tapered forks if you are building one up. It added some significant headaches to the process due to the super short headtube not playing nice with the taper on this fork. She'll be getting this for her birthday in a couple weeks and hopefully out on trail whenever winter allows us to see some dirt again (or we head south for a weekend). I'm curious to see how she'll handle the transition from the 20" but she's really tall for a soon to be 7 year old so I think it will work out alright.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

I'd be careful with those QRs and check them for coming loose.

You shouldn't have had any issue with the taper with an external cup. The length of the steerer shouldn't have any effect on the steerer fitting.


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## catch22 (Apr 30, 2004)

POAH said:


> I'd be careful with those QRs and check them for coming loose.
> 
> You shouldn't have had any issue with the taper with an external cup. The length of the steerer shouldn't have any effect on the steerer fitting.


Yeah, I'm going to keep a close watch on the QRs. If the stock ones are becoming problematic I'll swap something more reliable on there.

I promise you that the external cup doesn't cure the issue, not even close unfortunately. When I first mentioned the problem on your thread that was with the external cup installed. Being that it was a tapered going on I had the external lower ready to go since you can't use a tapered steerer with a 44ZS lower. It's possible that the taper on some newer forks is a bit lower down but on the 2010-2011 Rockshox line it runs about 5mm to high for the ultra short headtube on this frame. To remedy the issue I tracked down a +3mm lower crown race that is made for some fatbikes to fit the Bluto dials under the downtube. With that it was a bit closer but I still had to do some file work on the blue upper race that is integrated into the upper assembly on the Cane Creek 40 series headsets. The frustrating thing is no one makes an EC44 upper cup unless you want to run an Angleset. If someone did that would have been the instant solution to the probelm. What would have been perfect was this: The PVD EC44 PlusFifteen | Peter Verdone Designs
But unfortunately he said that was a one off he made to cure the same issue on a frame he built. At some point I may get in touch with a machine shop to see if I could get something similar made (or just pick up a different fork). At this point it is together and seems to be holding preload but I put way more force into the topcap than I typically would. Will see what happens with a little riding time on it.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

I put a debonair air can on the monarch R, made a big difference to the small bump/initial stroke. 

I've got a set of crests and novatec 771/712 hubs coming, need to decied wither I get C-xray or standard DB spokes.


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## catch22 (Apr 30, 2004)

POAH said:


> I put a debonair air can on the monarch R, made a big difference to the small bump/initial stroke.
> 
> I've got a set of crests and novatec 771/712 hubs coming, need to decied wither I get C-xray or standard DB spokes.


Good to know that Debonair is working well on there. I may end up making that swap sometime down the road. What's been the biggest gain with it vs the stock setup, making better use of the travel?

The Crests seem really nice so far. They seated up tubeless with Orange Seal with a floor pump no problem. One had to be reinflated the next day and both have been holding air since then.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

cause of the low weight of the boy the suspension is more active and moves easier on certain hits rather than bucking him up.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

catch22 said:


> View attachment 1040522
> View attachment 1040523
> 
> 
> I finally have this build mostly together and definitely happy with how it turned out. As pictured it's 23.6 lbs. At this point the only changes I've got planned are to put some other pedals on, just not sure which ones I'm going to go with yet. I had a set of Mallets sitting around so I put those on so I could ride it around and make sure everything was in working order. Everything was pretty straightforward with the build but I would try to avoid tapered forks if you are building one up. It added some significant headaches to the process due to the super short headtube not playing nice with the taper on this fork. She'll be getting this for her birthday in a couple weeks and hopefully out on trail whenever winter allows us to see some dirt again (or we head south for a weekend). I'm curious to see how she'll handle the transition from the 20" but she's really tall for a soon to be 7 year old so I think it will work out alright.


Just purchased this Ripcord from catch22 for my soon to be 7 year old girl. 
Was searching for a Pineridge but the used ones were outrageously priced and when I came across this FS bike at essentially the same weight and less money, it just made sense. Our terrain is very rough and I feel I'll have more flexibility to visit different trails with her on a FS.
I have gathered a few Alibaba cf parts and a few left over big bike parts, but catch22 deserves most of the credit for getting the weight down. I hope to get the bike closer to 23.0# but I'll probably miss the target by 1/4#. Which is fine. 
Interestingly enough my daughter's 20" Cannondale (no suspension, no gears, no front brake) weighs 23# as well. Her 24" Hotrocks HT weighs 29.8#. So the upgrade should be amazing.

Some parts awaiting the bike to arrive today.

Will update in a month or so.









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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Lightest Ripcord ever maybe @ 22.1#?

This bike rides great and my girl is doing great on it.










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