# SkyRay 7T6 review



## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Recently, Eastern web shops started to sell new bike light with seven XM-L LEDs, in various sets, with 4- to 8-cell battery or as stand-alone head:

(Link 1, Link 2, Link 3, Link 4, Link 5, Link 6).










As its quality seems to be higher than "average Chinese light", I'd like to share my opinion about it: perhaps, it will be useful for some of you. I've ordered this particular one:
Super Bright 7T6 BIke Light / 7*Cree XM-L T6 Bicycle Light ( Lamp Cap Only )

Honestly, I'm very impressed. The quality of parts and assembling is surprizingly high, especially if compared to my previous five-LED light.

The most important thing - thermal management - is excellent here. All the LEDs are soldered on common baseplate, mounted onto massive aluminium base. Instead of thermal paste, thermal compound is used, but it's used quite properly. Layer is very thin, and it was applied immediately before mounting (excessive compound squeezed in holes), so overall thermal path is undoubtedly good. Big contact surfaces also assure that. The reflector is securely mounted with two M3 screws. Moreover, massive aluminium reflector not only used to provide mounting pressure to the LED plate (via separate plastic insulators), but also participate in thermal sinking - as it's very tightly contacted with both aluminium base and the outer case.























































Positioning of each LED in the cells is perfect. Assembled LED module and outer case both have wide and well machined contact surfaces. It's quite uncommon for Chinese light to be completely watertight, but it's the case here! Silicone button cap is not just inserted into hole, as it's usually done in other lights, but fixed by separate screw-in metal ring. And even power cord's hole is equipped with rubber boot. Obviously, glass bezel is also sealed with rubber rings. The handlebar mounting is typical, but is done more stable: shape of case's mounting surface have protruding edges preventing the mounting from rotation.





































Electrical scheme is not bad either. All the LEDs are connected in series, and powered by boost driver made of QX5241a IC, H35N03 mosfet transistor and SS34 Schottky diode. Power to the circuit is stabilized by Holtek 7133-1 regulator. Indication of battery state is tri-colour (green-blue-red-flashing red). Wires connecting the LED module have high-temperature silicone insulation. All the soldering is fine and clean.

As the light is relatively heavy (225 g), I've replaced the mounting with self-made one:










Power consumption seems artifically lowered. In the default condition, current in the High mode was only 2,07А (16,2 Watt), and brightness at 1m - 13800 Lux. In former lights, underpowering was probably used to compensate inferior assembling quality, but in this case, I see no reasons for that. The only thing I can suppose of, is the absence of good batteries: for year or two, Asian web-shops are selling absolute crap instead, so probably reduction of power is implemented to maintain at least marginal runtime. Enough to say, in the "6*18650 included" variant, amount of money left for the battery is around $15, so go figure...

Anyway, I've modified the driver to increase the power to the reasonable level by changing current sense resistor's value to 0.0475 Ohm. Power component's parameters, according to their datasheets, allow for that without problems. The only thing in question is the inductor: it now works in the near to the magnetic saturation regime, and to prevent overheating I've added thermal paste and heatsink to it (simple piece of thick aluminium). Also, I've added thermal paste in all the fittings between LED base, reflector, and outer case, and replaced power cord with MagicShine one (for compatibility with my set of batteries, and because of its better quality).



















Now at full beam it eats 3,78A (power is 31 Watt), providing 21500 Lux at 1m. Further increase is possible, but at the cost of replacing some of electronic components and inductor. Most likely, it will cause problems with common cables and extensions (due to high current and voltage drop), and will require replacement of battery protection circuits with ones that can sustain such load without triggering overcurrent protection.

As for now, heating is quite great. In the room test (25°C), after 10 minutes at full beam temperature reached 64°C. With household cooling fan, the temperature after the same time was just 42°C, and after 15 minutes stabilized at 45°C. During actual night ride, it remains barely warm - the cooling seems to be sufficient. But do not forget to switch it off at long stops!










Beam is similar in shape to the famous MagicShine MJ-808, but have some imperfections due to the multiple smooth reflectors used. I believe, it would be great if manufacturer will ever implement version with slightly deflected optical axes of reflectors, so that individual beams will be shifted a bit around centre - that way, effective cone of light will be wider. But even in current state, it's sufficient for most offroad landscapes IMHO.

Conclusion: the light is quite well made, and after minor modding is really powerful one.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Nice review and modification  I just wonder if this would be brighter than 2 solarstorms x2 or 2 kd 880 clones.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Nice review. 

Is it possible to switch the IC with something that you can program yourself? This light only has two modes, which is not enough for a powerful light. Someone on the single xml thread did something like that, switched the control chip, but he didn't provide much detail.

I like that mount you made. I wish these heavier lights came with these.

Is the spot really as narrow as a 808?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

MK96 said:


> Nice review and modification


Thanks.



> I just wonder if this would be brighter than 2 solarstorms x2 or 2 kd 880 clones.


It's difficult to compare them. I have measured one SolarStorm X2 to be 14300 lux at 1m, but it is really narrow-focused light - so, perhaps two of them will produce central spot as bright as SkyRay (or even brighter), but flood will be far less IMHO.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

varider said:


> Nice review.


Thank you.



> Is it possible to switch the IC with something that you can program yourself?


Technically - yes, of course, but I don't have required hardware to do that.



> This light only has two modes, which is not enough for a powerful light.


It depends. For me, High and Low modes are sufficient: low mode provides enough light for most road places etc, while high is used on forest trails and so on. The only thing I'd like to get rid of, is the strobe - absolutely useless in most real-life cases, and quite annoying on mode switching.



> I like that mount you made. I wish these heavier lights came with these.


I can disclose my source of such mounts to the public! 
NEW Bicycle Water Bottle Cage Handlebar Mount Black | eBay



> Is the spot really as narrow as a 808?


Approximately yes. I don't have beam shots on hand, but it looks similar to the initial 808 version (P7-based, not modern 808e with XM-L). But I won't call that "narrow"...


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## Maximus_XXIV (Jun 7, 2009)

Does it use the MagicShine battery connectors?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

No. But they're more or less compatible: the contacts are the same (5.5/2.1mm, about 10mm barrel length), but the case is smaller in diameter and does not have that special shape:



You can connect it to the MS battery, but it will not be "locked" in place, and no protection from the elements provided.


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## purifier82 (Oct 13, 2013)

I've just bought it (well, I bought it last July, but the Italian customs held it for 4 months -_- ) and it appears way dimmer than the 6'000 lumens advertised  Could you post a detailed step by step tutorial with images on how to modify it? I'd be very grateful, thanks


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

You'll need to change current sense resistor value. On this picture, three SMD resistors to the left from MOSFET transistor (two R250 & one R330) are soldered in parallel: you'll have either to replace them with desired one(s) or add one more to obtain required resistance.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

You have to lower current sense resistor's value, there are 3 ones on the left in this picture:
https://imageshack.us/a/img839/1750/yn9o.jpg
Unless you know what you're doing and have experience with soldering very tiny SMD parts I don't recommend to do this, its not that easy.


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## purifier82 (Oct 13, 2013)

Thanks a lot! Actually I have zero experience in soldering, but I'll get some help from a friend who is really good at this


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## lofberg (Oct 13, 2013)

Same situation here...

So let me get this straight. The three resistors give a total resistance of 1/(1/.25+1/.25 +1/.33) = 0.0907 Ohm, and you have added a 0.1 Ohm over some of them, to achieve a total of 1/(1/.25+1/.25 +1/.33+1/.1)=0.0476 Ohm

Does it make any difference how I add this extra resistor? Anything else good to know (I am not doing this my self, I know some skilled guys with a complete lab)

cheers.



-Archie- said:


> You'll need to change current sense resistor value. On this picture, three SMD resistors to the left from MOSFET transistor (two R250 & one R330) are soldered in parallel: you'll have either to replace them with desired one(s) or add one more to obtain required resistance.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

*lofberg*, yes, that's exactly what I did. As for other recommendations, the new resistor should be soldered as close as possible to the existing ones, to avoid any EM interference. Do not use coiled-wire resistors, because of parasitic inductivity: solid-state or metal film are Ok. Good luck!

P.S. By the way, I really like this light: on my offroad night rides, it seems to be perfect. Minor beam's irregularities aren't noticeable in real life at all, while powerful spot and good spill make riding very comfortable.


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## purifier82 (Oct 13, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> By the way, I really like this light: on my offroad night rides, it seems to be perfect. Minor beam's irregularities aren't noticeable in real life at all, while powerful spot and good spill make riding very comfortable.


Have you measured the real output in lumens?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

No. Lumen measurement requires complicated equipment, and I see no reasons to buy (or make) it just for fun.

But it's possible to calculate approximate values based on known numbers. Cree XLamp produces about 100 to 160 lumens per watt (depending from current), so if we suppose driver's efficiency of mentioned light to be ~80% and multiply obtained ~3.5 watt per LED by, for example, 120 lumen/watt ratio, it gives total output to be about 3000 lumen. Probably, some additional losses are involved here as well (like random LED bins etc), so I'd expect it to be somewhere in between 2500 and 3000 lumens.

It seems IMHO more or less realistic, and also backed by another light of similar design - Lupine Betty R, specified (and confirmed to be) as 3600 lumens at 40 watt.


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## purifier82 (Oct 13, 2013)

So, in other words, even after the mod it's half the declared 6k value?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

purifier82 said:


> So, in other words, even after the mod it's half the declared 6k value?


Par for the Chinese lights. Inflated lumen values, inflated battery capacity, premium bin spec. The only thing for sure with them is the case is some kind of aluminum and there are some LEDs in it. All else is left to imagination and chance.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

*purifier82*, if you choose the lights based on chinese descriptions - this particular one is advertised on different web shops as 1800 to 7000 lumens, so you can select any number you like. 

If seriously, 3000 lumen is pretty bright, and as far as I know this light is currently most powerful bike light you can buy for reasonable price.


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## purifier82 (Oct 13, 2013)

Let's hope my friend doesn't fry it while soldering the new component then ^_^


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Ok, report your success then, and don't forget to apply thermal paste to the light's internals.

A bit of advertising: this is a picture of our recent night ride. The guy on wooden "bridge" uses classical MagicShine "900 chinese lumen" clone, several others are illuminating the place with similar lights of various design, and photographer has fired camera flash. The thingy on the upper-left corner of picture is me with SkyRay running at max.










Of course, such pictures are good for ads but not for serious comparison, but you'll get some impression about how it looks like...


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## purifier82 (Oct 13, 2013)

A picture is worth 1'000 words


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

purifier82 said:


> A picture is worth 1'000 words


Keep in mind that the lead bike has the light pointed away from the camera, while the nice bright one is likely pointed at the camera.

Don't be put off by the fact that it will be less than half the advertised lumen count, that's still lots of light. IMO, beam shape is really important at this lumen level. If it is too floody, the close in area will be too bright and that fouls up your night vision to see out ahead.


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## purifier82 (Oct 13, 2013)

Btw I've just opened it, those components are REALLY small, I hope my friend has good eyesight O_O


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## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

Archie,

Independent of beam shot, lamp comparison, etc., that pic is beautiful. That withstanding, I want to see a real beam shot ASAP


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## purifier82 (Oct 13, 2013)

Spoken with 3 different electronics expert friends, they wanna know if there is an exact model number/value for the resistor I have to add/replace (that I'm afraid I won't find in local shops...) :O


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Vancbiker said:


> Keep in mind that the lead bike has the light pointed away from the camera, while the nice bright one is likely pointed at the camera.





steelhmr said:


> Independent of beam shot, lamp comparison, etc., that pic is beautiful.


Of course, actual difference between lights is not as big as picture shows it (hence I've noted it as "advertising"), but in any case the light is quite bright. Our local bike club's members are using various powerful lights for long time, so they're familiar with most setups consisting several single- and dual-XMLs, but this one caused many jokes like calling me "landing aircraft" and "approaching locomotive"...


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## purifier82 (Oct 13, 2013)

ahahah nice nicknames XD

By the way a friend just told me to buy 3 of these that should give me the value of 0.050ohm Resistori SMD Resistenza basso ohm, 1206,0,33W,1%,R15 Panasonic ERJ8BSFR15V consegna in 24 ore , I guess I'll be even safer with the heat


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## lofberg (Oct 13, 2013)

How do you mean. Correct dimension, but putting three of those .15, corresponding to 0.05, will give you a much higher current than stock and a small-sized frying-pan

Original
1/(1/.25+1/.1+1/.33) = 0.906 and 16W

The mod discussed above

1/(1/.25+1/.1+1/.33+1/0.1) = 0.476 and 31W

Yours?

1/(1/.25+1/.1+1/.33+1/0.15+1/.15+1/.15)=0.032 and I guess ~45W!



purifier82 said:


> ahahah nice nicknames XD
> 
> By the way a friend just told me to buy 3 of these that should give me the value of 0.050ohm Resistori SMD Resistenza basso ohm, 1206,0,33W,1%,R15 Panasonic ERJ8BSFR15V consegna in 24 ore , I guess I'll be even safer with the heat


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## purifier82 (Oct 13, 2013)

Ouch some calculations errors I guess then 
Can you point me to the correct model on that website?


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## lofberg (Oct 13, 2013)

BTW, I misunderstood you. You are replacing the old resistors, all with a R15. All good then.


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## purifier82 (Oct 13, 2013)

lofberg said:


> BTW, I misunderstood you. You are replacing the old resistors, all with a R15. All good then.


Yes, remove all the old ones and install 3 of these, proceeding to order them now


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## lofberg (Oct 13, 2013)

Awesome light after the mod. Unfortunately, it said bzzz after a couple of minutes (a couple of degrees above freezing outside, not moving just checking the light). Hadn't had the time to do any thermal management mods.

The diod (marked ss34) popped off, and one leg of the coil hangs loose 

To the lights defense, I was running it on a 12.5V LiPo battery. I've always run my lights on 3-cell LiPo and directly from motorcycle battery and never had any problems with this. I thought higher voltage simply meant lower current (within limits), but maybe that is not the case?


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## purifier82 (Oct 13, 2013)

mmm sorry to hear that  
I've done (or rather, my friend has done) the mod and tested it only for a few seconds,
now I gotta find a new battery for my old 35w HID spotlight to take a beamshot photo
for comparison (that should be 3'500 lumens while this should output a little less), as for
the bike ride I'll let you know if it lasts for a 40 minutes test lap...


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## lofberg (Oct 13, 2013)

Trying to learn these things from scratch (even installed spice to simulate boost drivers. yes I am an engineer...), so could someone correct me if I am wrong anywhere.

1. The board uses a boost driver in order to increase incoming input voltage to ~25V for the 7 LEDs in series.

2. The MOSFET switching is controlled by the QX5241. Datasheet here
http://www.sddz-ic.com/upload/200962917312163081632XYE.pdf

3. Since the 5241 lists Vin as 5V-36V in its datasheet, a 12V (effectively 13.5V) battery should be no problems

4. In the datasheet, it says I = 0.2/Rsense, so theoretically the LEDs should see 2.2A at nominal 0.0907Ohm. However, that makes no sense as the current goes over 7 LEDs in series, and that would be 50W. So, by guessing from the schematic in the datasheet and thinking CSN = current sense, the 5241 actually controls the *input* current on this lamp?

5. The HT7133 simply supplies a constant 3.3V for auxilliary power on the board (the battery indicator led for example). I.e, it is not really involved in the boost process.

What really confuses me is that I saw 2A when I ran the lamp on the 12V battery, i.e., what Archie noted on presumably original 8V battery since he stated 16W. Wouldn't the boost driver account for the higher voltage and thus require lower current? Or is my hunch above correct, the 5241 controls the input current, so a simple mod here is to simply run the lamp using a higher voltage battery (since the 5241 can accept that). Lines up with the fact that I saw 2A .


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

1,2 - Correct.
3 - The power range of particular IC and working voltage limits of whole assembled light head are different things. Connecting the battery of significantly higher voltage is dangerous action in most cases, and this one is no exception.
4 - Regulation circuit normally controls the power applied to the load, in turn, by adjusting power consumed from the energy source.
5 - Correct.

It's difficult to make "theoretical model" of what exactly happened to the light when you've simultaneously overvolted it and increased the current (especially without thermal management), but putting it simple, it's somewhat like plugging American 110v soldering iron into European 220v outlet. It surely will increase the temperature, but not for long...


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## lofberg (Oct 13, 2013)

Thank you for the answers.

4 is what really confuses me, as the current draw on the source was the same regardless of input voltage, and increased proportionally when modding it. On my other lights, which work well under both 8V and 14V, the current drops proportionally when increasing the voltage. Could be that the control algorithm simply saturates somehow when running the light beyond the spec on input voltage. 

Anyhow, I liked the light, so I have a new on order (could not salvage the board, new schottky and resoldering the inductor did not help)


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Yes, probably control circuit was already damaged by overvolting: otherwise, it should adjust input current according to the voltage. At least, all the bike lights I have are doing that, more or less successfully.

Good luck modding the second unit, and don't forget to improve thermal sinking first!


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## dnitake (May 15, 2007)

I bought one based on this thread. It puts out about 1500 lumens out of the box comparing it w my Dinotte XML. I did the mod w 100 mohm and it then put out like a beast drowning out the dinotte. So far, so good. I then thermal pasted the led slug to the case, etc. You want the outer case to get hot. And it does get hot. I turned it on but got distracted for about 15 minutes. Oops. The light was off as well as the status light. There is no thermal shutdown on this. The clamp diode on the boost converter desoldered itself. The 100uf cap was blown. Inductor lead desoldered itself. Smell of burnt electronics, probably the cap. I'll repair what I can at work, but if the switch or controller are blown, I may need to get creative and design my own w/ thermal protection. LEDs looked ok.
I don't know if the REAL lights are protected, but I won't be testing my dinotte in likewise fashion.
Note to myself, these things need air flow


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## dnitake (May 15, 2007)

One more thing. I was worried about the case prior to blowing it up. It is handsome but is heavy and does not have much heatsink area. This may be why they keep the power down for the general masses?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

I don't think so. Cooling is adequate if you're moving - I've tested that. IMHO, underpowering is implemented because of marginal batteries typically included with such lights: running on full power will exhaust them almost instantly...


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

A thermocam would be handy to get a visual of the driver components temperature. But the cheapest I found is about 200 EUR


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## lofberg (Oct 13, 2013)

That's a carbon copy of my melt-down



dnitake said:


> I bought one based on this thread. It puts out about 1500 lumens out of the box comparing it w my Dinotte XML. I did the mod w 100 mohm and it then put out like a beast drowning out the dinotte. So far, so good. I then thermal pasted the led slug to the case, etc. You want the outer case to get hot. And it does get hot. I turned it on but got distracted for about 15 minutes. Oops. The light was off as well as the status light. There is no thermal shutdown on this. The clamp diode on the boost converter desoldered itself. The 100uf cap was blown. Inductor lead desoldered itself. Smell of burnt electronics, probably the cap. I'll repair what I can at work, but if the switch or controller are blown, I may need to get creative and design my own w/ thermal protection. LEDs looked ok.
> I don't know if the REAL lights are protected, but I won't be testing my dinotte in likewise fashion.
> Note to myself, these things need air flow


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## dnitake (May 15, 2007)

Sorry lofberg,
I missed the irony of your prior post. I'll try the repair a bit later.
Anyways, DC/DC converters are power in/power out less efficiency usually 90% if the coil and switch are in their zones. So agree a higher voltage would be less current.


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## lofberg (Oct 13, 2013)

What irony? Anyway, just noting that our lamps went down exactly the same route when going up in smoke (cap, and desoldered diod+inductor).



dnitake said:


> Sorry lofberg,
> I missed the irony of your prior post. I'll try the repair a bit later.
> Anyways, DC/DC converters are power in/power out less efficiency usually 90% if the coil and switch are in their zones. So agree a higher voltage would be less current.


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## dnitake (May 15, 2007)

Archie,
That was a good mod you did and I bet if I was moving it would be fine. Very informative. It makes having 7 LED's worth while, otherwise why bother.
I wonder how Lupine does it at full tilt. For $1100 they can do a LOT of things. 
Bet it self protects.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Yes, Lupine actively adjust the current according to the temperature: it was mentioned many times. Many inexpensive lights also have thermal monitoring circuitry, but this one unfortunately does not: just be careful. Or add protection yourself, if you think it's absolutely necessary.

As for the light, I'd say I really like it. After modding, I extensively use it on offroad rides: no problems so far, and very impressive output.


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## Hobie21 (Dec 10, 2014)

Quick question, I have the same light but with a different driver, could anyone tell me how to figure out which resistors need the mod, I have 9 resistors on the board. Values 102 to222. Don't see any in parallel. 2 feed indicator LEDs (102)and 2 are across legs of mosfet
(103 and 153) 2 are in series(103+222). A 124 is in series with a cap from input voltage
Board is a yytd84-04c.


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## mtrain (May 28, 2008)

-Archie- said:


> Recently, Eastern web shops started to sell new bike light with seven XM-L LEDs, in various sets, with 4- to 8-cell battery or as stand-alone head:
> 
> (Link 1, Link 2, Link 3, Link 4, Link 5, Link 6).
> 
> ...


Archie,

I recently purchased one of these, and am interested in doing the resistor mod you mention in this thread. Unfortunately all your photos seem to have disappeared. I was wondering if you still had any of those so I can make sure I understand adding the resistor properly.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

mtrain said:


> Archie,
> 
> I recently purchased one of these, and am interested in doing the resistor mod you mention in this thread. Unfortunately all your photos seem to have disappeared. I was wondering if you still had any of those so I can make sure I understand adding the resistor properly.


I'm sure I still have the pictures on my HDD: will check later. The problem mentioned above is caused by ImageShack site: they tried to earn some money by converting formerly free hosting to the commercial service and deleting old content. Quite wise move nowadays, isn't it? :lol:


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Hobie21 said:


> Quick question, I have the same light but with a different driver, could anyone tell me how to figure out which resistors need the mod, I have 9 resistors on the board. Values 102 to222. Don't see any in parallel. 2 feed indicator LEDs (102)and 2 are across legs of mosfet
> (103 and 153) 2 are in series(103+222). A 124 is in series with a cap from input voltage
> Board is a yytd84-04c.


Can you post up a clear legible closeup pic of the driver (both sides if possible)?

-Garry


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

*mtrain*, I've uploaded my pictures to the another site, and edited my first message in this tread:
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/skyray-7t6-review-872692.html#post10632647

Seems to be displayed properly now.

BTW, extensive use of that light during two years confirmed its quality: no single problem so far...


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## mtrain (May 28, 2008)

-Archie- said:


> *mtrain*, I've uploaded my pictures to the another site, and edited my first message in this tread:
> http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/skyray-7t6-review-872692.html#post10632647
> 
> Seems to be displayed properly now.
> ...


Thanks Archie. Mine might be a little different than yours inside. Still trying to figure out how to get to the circuit board...


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Your seems to be of totally different internal design. I've heard on Russian forum that recent copies of this light were crappy, but maybe manufacturer itself just went "the Chinese way" like it often happens in bike light production. Just noted LightMalls lowered the price from $50 to $22 - probably, it's now different light indeed...

As for disassembling - hard to see if there's some screws or another mounting under thermal paste. You may also unscrew the rear ring & remove pushbutton silicone cap: maybe something is fixed from the other side?


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## mtrain (May 28, 2008)

-Archie- said:


> Your seems to be of totally different internal design. I've heard on Russian forum that recent copies of this light were crappy, but maybe manufacturer itself just went "the Chinese way" like it often happens in bike light production. Just noted LightMalls lowered the price from $50 to $22 - probably, it's now different light indeed...
> 
> As for disassembling - hard to see if there's some screws or another mounting under thermal paste. You may also unscrew the rear ring & remove pushbutton silicone cap: maybe something is fixed from the other side?


I removed the back and this is what my driver looks like.


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## R0N1N (Jan 14, 2019)

Anyone still active here? Got my hands on this light but I also have a other driver board...


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