# The best rigid riding advice I can give.



## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

I'm prepared to take some flack for this, but I've seen the questions asked time and time again as to how to make rigid riding hurt less. I took the time to put everything I've learned into one post.

In a nutshell...

Bad Idea Racing: Share the Wisdom Wednesdays ((on Thursdays) but on Tuesday this time): Part Eight


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## SlowPokePete (Mar 27, 2006)

I don't see how riding in flip-flops is going to make it easier, but I'm willing to give it a try...

SPP


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

SlowPokePete said:


> I don't see how riding in flip-flops is going to make it easier, but I'm willing to give it a try...
> 
> SPP


I'd only recommend it if you have a pump track in your den/bike room.


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## MTBMILES (Dec 27, 2007)

Thanks for posting, fun read.


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## Crankyone (Dec 8, 2014)

my wife won't let me get a "drooper"


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

Tell her it will make you a better husband.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Good stuff. I've been a draper (and a shaker) forever, eventually I'll probably cave and try a drooper.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

My wife would be disappointed if I only had a drooper.


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## IstongKowldPaRin (Apr 6, 2009)

Maybe I'll try the drooper on my ss rigid too.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Spot-on.


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## robertdavid (May 31, 2012)

Just wondering how wide, in inches, your handlebars are? Thanks


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

robertdavid said:


> Just wondering how wide, in inches, your handlebars are? Thanks


700mm or 27.56".

For reference, I'm only 5' 6.5" tall.


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## solo-x (Feb 16, 2010)

>700mm is "wide" in my book. <640mm is what I'd consider narrow, everything in between is "average". I personally ride a 690mm wide bar (cut down Thomson). I basically trimmed it until I stopped clipping trees and rocks with it. Another trick I use which I didn't see mentioned is to move my hands around on the bars when I can. This worked great at the H100 this year, where there were long stretches of paved or dirt road. I'd move my hands in to just outside of the stem. It shortens the reach and gets you a touch more upright, taking weight off your hands, and it's a touch more aero too!

For your core work, try holding your legs in an 'L' shape while doing your chin ups. Nothing better than cutting your training time in half by doubling up!


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## bald dirt bag (Feb 9, 2014)

I always ride with a little rear bias on my rigid stuff and tend to air down the front tire some for the rough stuff. Really I prefeer a rigid bike over suspension for most trail riding as it is more effeicient. I also get fat BMX grips like ODI long necks or Yeti MTBs they help Cush the vibes. A softer tire compound helps absorb rocks and such too.


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

solo-x said:


> For your core work, try holding your legs in an 'L' shape while doing your chin ups. Nothing better than cutting your training time in half by doubling up!


I do that when I'm not feeling lazy.

I usually feel lazy.


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## azjonboy (Dec 21, 2006)

I weigh 185 and run an Ardent up front at 18psi. Also have similar philosophy regarding handlebar to seat drop. Although a bit older at 55  , no hand wrist problems after 7 years of rigid riding. Using a big sweep Ti bar has helped tremendously.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

One thing I've found that helps with hand pain not just on my rigid bike but on all my bikes is glove choice. I always try to find gloves that don't have a seam at the thumb joint. The seam presses into the meaty part of my thumb and starts to ache after awhile.


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## claystrick (Nov 13, 2008)

Hey TD wanted to get your advice on something, since you have more time riding SS.
I typically try and spin with best cadence I can while training on my rigid SS, but sometimes when climbing, the cadence obviously gets slower and the pressure on the knees gets greater. Have you ever had knee issues while getting used to gearing? and does this eventually get better over time or is it better to be standing more often?


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## febikes (Jan 28, 2011)

claystrick said:


> I typically try and spin with best cadence I can while training on my rigid SS, but sometimes when climbing, the cadence obviously gets slower and the pressure...


More standing is really good. Especially when I am rigid....

Oh wait, were you guys talking about the fork?


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

claystrick said:


> Hey TD wanted to get your advice on something, since you have more time riding SS.
> I typically try and spin with best cadence I can while training on my rigid SS, but sometimes when climbing, the cadence obviously gets slower and the pressure on the knees gets greater. Have you ever had knee issues while getting used to gearing? and does this eventually get better over time or is it better to be standing more often?


I will sometimes sit back in the saddle and grind it out, but I do a lot of my climbing standing up. When I run a gear that might spin up easier, I have a harder time transitioning between the two.

And I've had knee issues, but mostly from riding with my knees uncovered in cold weather.

Bad Idea Racing: Share the Wisdom Wednesdays (on Thursdays): Part Four


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

jeffw-13 said:


> One thing I've found that helps with hand pain not just on my rigid bike but on all my bikes is glove choice. I always try to find gloves that don't have a seam at the thumb joint. The seam presses into the meaty part of my thumb and starts to ache after awhile.


I tend to look for the simplest, non-padded gloves I can find. Inserts and whatnot just create hotspots for me.


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## Radioinactive (Aug 2, 2011)

im currently riding a carver 490mm fork. not sure if you've ridden it, anyways... i noticed you have the new enve rigid fork on your (vertigo?).
looks the business. which do you prefer and why? - your niner rdo or the enve fork. thanks home-skillet


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

I've been holding the bars like that since I started riding mountain bikes. I never really even thought about it or realized it till two people here, this week, have mentioned that they also do it. Also, I grip the bars with such a loose grip that the bars are almost banging around inside my hand. I learned to do this racing motocross. You can learn how to ride by letting your body have most of the control over the bike and not controlling the bike with your arms and hands. Sometimes on steep climbs I'll lay an index finger on the bar on each side of the stem and use my hips to steer the bike.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> Sometimes on steep climbs I'll lay an index finger on the bar on each side of the stem and use my hips to steer the bike.


Seated or standing?


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Seated, don't think I could do that standing.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Ahh, anything with steep in the title and I'm standing.


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## santabooze (Oct 14, 2010)

Subcribed


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

Radioinactive said:


> im currently riding a carver 490mm fork. not sure if you've ridden it, anyways... i noticed you have the new enve rigid fork on your (vertigo?).
> looks the business. which do you prefer and why? - your niner rdo or the enve fork. thanks home-skillet


Comfort-wise, they're apples to apples. I kind of expected that.

I bought the ENVE so I could run the Maxxis Chronicle 3.0 when I want to. The clearance on the Niner fork was too close for comfort for me.

Bad Idea Racing: Frokken


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## evenslower (Sep 26, 2005)

Great advice going on here. Only thing I can add that might be of benefit is to stay off the brakes in the rough stuff (roots, rocks, smallish drops). Do your braking before rough sections when at speed or try to float over it. If you've got to brake to regain some composure use the rear. The front brake amplifies the situation and in my experience tends to make matters worse. 

How close was too close TD? Rubbing?


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## santabooze (Oct 14, 2010)

I raced the 2014 24HOP, full rigid with the carver 490mm fork, I only started to get sore in the later parts of the event. I find it way more compliant than my Niner RDO.

Just my 2cents

SATORI


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

evenslower said:


> Great advice going on here. Only thing I can add that might be of benefit is to stay off the brakes in the rough stuff (roots, rocks, smallish drops). Do your braking before rough sections when at speed or try to float over it. If you've got to brake to regain some composure use the rear. The front brake amplifies the situation and in my experience tends to make matters worse.
> 
> How close was too close TD? Rubbing?


Close enough that if I got in muddy conditions, I felt like I might be dragging mud against the fork. Since I race mostly endurance events, I don't wanna see what sanded down crabon looks like after nine hours.


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

NordieBoy said:


> Ahh, anything with steep in the title and I'm standing.


I do switch from seated to standing on long climbs. But, when it gets really steep it's hard for me to keep tracktion on the rear wheel while standing.


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## JeffL (Jan 25, 2009)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> I do switch from seated to standing on long climbs. But, when it gets really steep it's hard for me to keep tracktion on the rear wheel while standing.


When it gets "really steep" you're able to stay seated on a singlespeed? Just the thought of it makes my back and knees ache...


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

JeffL said:


> When it gets "really steep" you're able to stay seated on a singlespeed? Just the thought of it makes my back and knees ache...


Let me correct myself: When it gets really steep I'm pushing.


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## robertdavid (May 31, 2012)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> Let me correct myself: When it gets really steep I'm pushing.


I agree with and approve this post.


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## max-a-mill (Apr 14, 2004)

i will add one new development that should rock the rigid world soon enough i think.

adding a 3" front tire is amazing! especially if your a fat guy like me who can't really air down a normal 29er front tire without fear of pinchflatting. it just makes everything better except maybe climbing which i don't really like to begin with.

once the chronicle officially comes out and dicky tells you how great he thinks it is (at least i'd guess he's gonna think it is great based on my personal testing with the innova 29+) i am betting this movement is gonna move ;-P

if you ride rigid and haven't tired a REAL fatty up front yet, get on it!


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## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

max-a-mill said:


> i will add one new development that should rock the rigid world soon enough i think.
> 
> adding a 3" front tire is amazing! especially if your a fat guy like me who can't really air down a normal 29er front tire without fear of pinchflatting. it just makes everything better except maybe climbing which i don't really like to begin with.
> 
> ...


Now wide a rim are you running that on? Did it setup tubeless?


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## solo-x (Feb 16, 2010)

IMO, knee pain is a fit issue, not an SS issue. It just happens that if you're spinning at a high cadence a lot, or seated pushing a hard gear (both things more common on an SS than on a geared bike) a lot, you will expose a fit issue more easily. Most common cause IME? Setting the saddle too far back (or too high), which engages your hamstrings too much, resulting in a muscle imbalance that manifests as pain in the knees.

Or, riding in the cold with your knees exposed. That'll do it too.


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## max-a-mill (Apr 14, 2004)

SS Hack said:


> Now wide a rim are you running that on? Did it setup tubeless?


i got mine on the new style (wider) flow. went together tubeless no problem and seems to work well (except i did get it to buzz the stantions a couple times when i got really rowdy at around 15 psi; i think that means i just need a few more psi). it is a new wheel and i must say that i do have a unfortunately have a little buyers remorse now... had i known how much i'd like this 3.0 i'd have had a chosen the new hugo rim instead since i don't see myself running anything narrower on this bike again. with the wider rim i think i could probably run it lower with less squirm BUT even if i need 20 psi to keep it from buzzing it beats the hell out of my old 2.4 that i needed to keep at a minimum of 30psi to keep from pinching.

one thing you may want to make sure you have with a tire this size is a digital pressure gauge. when all the difference comes from 2-3 psi +/- the gauge on the floor pump becomes virtually useless. i don't have one yet so i haven't figured out how to really dial the pressure in exactly enough.

max


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## bald dirt bag (Feb 9, 2014)

A good low pressure digital gauge is a little painfull at first from sticker shock but pays for itself for use with tires, air shocks and other low pressure applications. They are excellent for dialing that perfect balance for forks or F/R bias on tires. I got mine from Summit Racing years ago and use it regularly on all kinds of stuff, not just my MTB but anything that requires low precision pressure.


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## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

Thanks max. I'm going to give one a try on a too narrow rim and perhaps pick up a Hugo after if that works ok. Anyone know which 29x3.0 is the smallest? I might be able to fit a smaller one in the back.


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## Acko (Feb 18, 2014)

If you're going to start using 29+ tyres, I'd say get a proper frame or fork for it...
All this "will it fit" business sounds like 2 years ago when everyone was trying to do dodgy 650b conversions... 
You won't see any front Tyre over 2.35" on my rigid ss for marathon, stage or 24hr racing...


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

And some of those dodgy conversions worked really really well.


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## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

Some folks like to try before they buy. I'm going for either 29+ or 650b+ at some point, but why not dabble a bit first?


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

I've been using a SKS digital gauge that will do presta or schrader on my fat bike tires with great results. and it won't break the bank. i never run more than 9psi and have been as low as 4.0 in deep snow. I also use it on my recently converted half fat Kona Unit. i really want to try the 29+ setup though, instead of a 4.0 tire, with a 29+ specific fork.

View attachment 951254


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## Bunzl (Jan 5, 2012)

Dicky - I noticed on your blog you switched back to the ardent (presumably a 2.4) instead of the chronicle for a recent ride and just wondered why? Purely down to the extra 200g weight in the chronicle or certain rides where you feel the ardent is a better tyre for the job?


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

Bunzl said:


> Dicky - I noticed on your blog you switched back to the ardent (presumably a 2.4) instead of the chronicle for a recent ride and just wondered why? Purely down to the extra 200g weight in the chronicle or certain rides where you feel the ardent is a better tyre for the job?


I do like the Chronicle, and if I'm just going to be playing... fine.

Problem being that it's still a slow handler compared to the 2.4 Ardent. Th extra weight and traction can require some man-handling. I'm having a hard time figuring out if there's anywhere that I would want to _race_ it.


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## iceboxsteve (Feb 22, 2012)

teamdicky said:


> And I've had knee issues, but mostly from riding with my knees uncovered in cold weather.
> 
> Bad Idea Racing: Share the Wisdom Wednesdays (on Thursdays): Part Four





solo-x said:


> Or, riding in the cold with your knees exposed. That'll do it too.


So an old timer said this to me the other day, but in my typical brash mid-20s SSer New Englander fashion I replied that I respectfully disagreed. But this is really that true eh? I ride with shorts at least until its 40 or so.


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## Bunzl (Jan 5, 2012)

teamdicky said:


> I do like the Chronicle, and if I'm just going to be playing... fine.
> 
> Problem being that it's still a slow handler compared to the 2.4 Ardent. Th extra weight and traction can require some man-handling. I'm having a hard time figuring out if there's anywhere that I would want to _race_ it.


Interesting, thanks.


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

iceboxsteve said:


> So an old timer said this to me the other day, but in my typical brash mid-20s SSer New Englander fashion I replied that I respectfully disagreed. But this is really that true eh? I ride with shorts at least until its 40 or so.


If you clicked that link, you read my story. I pushed my luck in my early cycling years, and now I pay the price for my youthful sense of immortality.


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

Bunzl said:


> Interesting, thanks.


Kinda sucks, because I do love riding with it. It's fun and more comfortable, but not faster when it's time to go fast.


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## iceboxsteve (Feb 22, 2012)

teamdicky said:


> If you clicked that link, you read my story. I pushed my luck in my early cycling years, and now I pay the price for my youthful sense of immortality.


But I _am_ immortal....

Naw, for real, I cover lots of things for protection men of other generations didn't because I learned from their mistakes. Like helmets. thanks for helping a youngin'.


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## solo-x (Feb 16, 2010)

iceboxsteve said:


> So an old timer said this to me the other day, but in my typical brash mid-20s SSer New Englander fashion I replied that I respectfully disagreed. But this is really that true eh? I ride with shorts at least until its 40 or so.


I'll add that everyone is different and avoiding the really stupid stuff (like riding on the road in shorts when it's 20* out&#8230 may stave off any problems. If you think about what happens when you get cold though, it makes sense. Your body's natural defense to the cold is to reduce blood flow to your extremities. The colder the extremity, the less blood flow. An exposed knee is going to be very cold (no fat for insulation, front edge of your leg, etc.) and thus very little blood flow. Very little blood flow to nourish the cartilage and fluids that lubricate the knee joint. Do that a bunch and you basically start grinding up the meniscus, and once that is gone you're in a lot of pain and will have a lot of knee problems.


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## max-a-mill (Apr 14, 2004)

Acko said:


> If you're going to start using 29+ tyres, I'd say get a proper frame or fork for it...
> All this "will it fit" business sounds like 2 years ago when everyone was trying to do dodgy 650b conversions...
> You won't see any front Tyre over 2.35" on my rigid ss for marathon, stage or 24hr racing...


BUT the beauty of just using a 29+ tire up front is that most rigid forks will easily fit one. i don't think i'd want to spin one of those huge suckers up out back anyhow. I think the perfect 29+ bike for me is fat up front only (and my existing bike works perfect like this; only thing needed maybe is a wider front rim).

ALSO ALSO; why are we debating faster??? i do get it to an extent; but if fast is your main concern i hear there are these two revolutionary technologies called suspension and gears... ;-P i don't know about you guys but i don't ride the rigid bike cause it is the fastest (sometimes it is, but not very often).

ALSO ALSO finally; i am thinking the 29+ front may be of bigger benefit in everyday use for those of us with enough extra natural weight where a few hundred extra grams in tire weight won't matter much. i certainly don't notice any extra rolling resistance. if it makes climbing harder; well climbing is always hard for me anyhow....


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## bald dirt bag (Feb 9, 2014)

Don't forget the " chopper " effect it will inevitably give. That extra 40 mm of fork will adversely affect response and washout.


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

max-a-mill said:


> ALSO ALSO; why are we debating faster??? i do get it to an extent; but if fast is your main concern i hear there are these two revolutionary technologies called suspension and gears... ;-P i don't know about you guys but i don't ride the rigid bike cause it is the fastest (sometimes it is, but not very often).


I don't ride/race on a rigid bike because it's faster... ever. It's just what I like when I choose to do it.

That said, I like going faster with less effort as opposed to going slower with more. Comfort takes a back seat in there somewhere.


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## max-a-mill (Apr 14, 2004)

teamdicky said:


> Comfort takes a back seat in there somewhere.


makes perfect sense... as a larger gentlemen it is pretty evident comfort takes precedence more often in my decisions. Everyone has to draw there own line in the sand.

With that 40 dollar tire on amazon it is pretty easy to just rig one up and decide for yourself (if your fork is wide enough) without wasting a ton of time or money. I couldn't be happier with mine and i don't plan to take it off. I will warn you though, it could make you want a wider front rim... I wish i could try a ride with this tire on the hugo rim to see if it really feels 2-300 dollars better on a 50mm rim than it does on the 30mm one i have now (i really don't want to build another new wheel cause the wheel i have now is pretty much brand new and awesome for normal sized tires).


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

max-a-mill said:


> I wish i could try a ride with this tire on the hugo rim to see if it really feels 2-300 dollars better on a 50mm rim than it does on the 30mm one i have now (i really don't want to build another new wheel cause the wheel i have now is pretty much brand new and awesome for normal sized tires).


I'm in the same boat. Want to try the Chronicle on a Hugo as well. Don't wanna chunk down the money to make it happen... only to be sads.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

(I just posted this in the 29er forum as well.) Rode my Karate Monkey SS with a 29x2.4 tire up front, 29x2.25 rear, Vassago rigid fork, wide aluminum bar, dropper post, yadda yadda. I was riding with a large group and I was one of two people on a singlespeed hardtail, and the only one with a rigid fork.

Normally I ride these trails with a rigid fork and have a grand old time, but the speed I needed to maintain to keep the last rider in front of me in view meant I got really beat up in the rocky sections. It was brutal. I keep my tire pressure as low as it is safe to do without pinching the tire and I still feel like I spent those two hours inside a cement mixer truck.

The problem is mostly the front wheel- I just can't "pick the right line" at that speed, on the kind of terrain and the rocks kill my momentum, along with my wrists.

I tried hating everything too. It turns out that the local rocks' capacity for hatered is stronger.

I was thinking a 29+ tire on a wider rim would help, but that would mean building a new wheel and buying an expensive tire. I'll see if I can borrow one and maybe build that when I can justify the expense (I blew my bike parts budget out of the water recently.)

*what's your experience with 29+ front wheels on rigid? What's the limit at which it is just not practical?*

Not interested in carbon fiber anything, for a variety of reasons. If it comes down to that, I'll just put my squish fork back on for keeping speed in the rough stuff. Make bikes metal again!


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## 834905 (Mar 8, 2018)

I rode my Jabberwocky as 29+ for a season and loved it. I ran 45mm rims with Chupacabras at around 12psi. I basically kept dropping pressure until I heard rim on rock and then added a lb or 2 back.

Im back on skinnies since breaking my Vassago frame and its night and day imo. Id run 29+ again in a heartbeat but I race my rigid SS so fast rolling skinnies will be on this thing for a while at least.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

2.35" on rigid is the biggest I've gone.
I found 50 years old is when it becomes less practical in the rockier singletrack.

My old 2011 Kona Unit won't take bigger rear and would need a new rim on the front to go wider.
An N+1 2012 Giant Anthem was cheaper


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## 834905 (Mar 8, 2018)

NordieBoy said:


> 2.35" on rigid is the biggest I've gone.
> I found 50 years old is when it becomes less practical in the rockier singletrack.
> 
> My old 2011 Kona Unit won't take bigger rear and would need a new rim on the front to go wider.
> An N+1 2012 Giant Anthem was cheaper


2.35 seems to be my sweet spot for skinnies. There's a lot of fast rolling, really nice tires in that size and its very versatile in terms of use between daily riding, training and racing. I tried 2.6s and thought they felt like an awkward in between on a rigid bike. It felt like I either needed to go back to full 29+ or back to faster rolling skinnies.


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## khardrunner14 (Aug 16, 2010)

I've run 29x3.0 and 29x2.6 as well as a number of more typical, smaller sizes on rigid SS. Given the choice, I will NEVER choose anything smaller than 2.6. I have found it to be faster in nearly every condition found in actual mountain biking and FAR more comfortable and capable. It is literally life changing it is that good for me. YMMV.

FYI this is only as a front tire as the frames I own cannot take more than 2.4" in the rear.


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## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

A bit of truth that I remember reading on here at some point was that tire size will not substitute suspension. 

A rigid bike will be a rigid bike whether you are on 2.35 or 4.8. You'll gain some squish, sure, but IME you'll still feel like you're riding a rigid bike.


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## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

double post


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## Raybum (Apr 16, 2009)

I've been riding a rigid SS for a number of years and have come to love the 29x3 Chupacabra (11 psi). I run it on a 30mm inner width carbon rim and have raced (and won) w/ it. But, I too suffer from the visual blur that occurs at speed in the rough stuff...I've had to go back to a suspension fork for XC races or I just lose too much time on the downhills.


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

I've been playing with a DHR+ 3.0 on the front of my Vertigo when I'm feeling randy. It's super donkey awesome compared to anything less than 2.6. So burly and fun.

Also, not the hammer for all the nails. You can _feel_ this tire at XC speeds and especially while climbing.

I even rode the lift assisted bike park stuff at Snowshoe on it... and I'm pretty sure I was the only rigid single speed on the lifts that day.


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## dbhammercycle (Nov 15, 2011)

That 2nd pic is one of my favorites for today!


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I have been riding a squish fork most of the time for the past few months. My Vassago Odis fork was gathering dust so I put it on and went for a spin. The change from a Fox34 to a 480 a-c steel fork was noticeable but the harsh ride was miserable. I did this for grins but no grins came to me. 20psi F, 24 R on 29x2.4s and everything made the bike feel like a pallet of bricks.

I kinda want to Make Rigid Great Again, but I also want to just enjoy riding. Do I need to re-adapt my riding technique or just accept the sissy spring fork? What should I do with the unused fork? It makes a neat hum when I tap it on my head.


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## jct (Mar 26, 2004)

how fat can you go in front? i have a Ti Odis with 2.6 on 35i. running 14psi at my 205#.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

jct said:


> how fat can you go in front? i have a Ti Odis with 2.6 on 35i. running 14psi at my 205#.


I think I could fit a 3" tire in that fork, but not sure how well that would work on a 25mm inner rim. my suspension fork is boost, so I have adapters on the hub to make it work on both forks for now. if I build a new front wheel to accommodate a fatter front tire, it will be on a boost hub so it fits the squish fork. the squish fork is designed for a 27.5+ or 29er tire, so I don't think can go much bigger than 2.5". The boost hub then won't work on the rigid fork. I'm not made of money, so boutique crabon bike parts and multiple wheels are not an option.

I gotta say, rigid is fine on solo riders, but I get totally left in the dust on group rides when i ride rigid with anyone remotely fast. it's like riding with a cinder block dragging on a chain behind me.


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## jct (Mar 26, 2004)

i hear ya mack. i just upgraded my wheelset this year.

i do have some bongtrager line plus 39i boost wheels for sale made by Mike C if you do end up entering the market.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I just realized that I posted almost the same question in this thread about 11 months ago. It appears that this is a theme and I should learn my lesson.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

mack_turtle said:


> I just realized that I posted almost the same question in this thread about 11 months ago. It appears that this is a theme and I should learn my lesson.


Well, we'll find out next year then...


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

NordieBoy said:


> 2.35" on rigid is the biggest I've gone.
> I found 50 years old is when it becomes less practical in the rockier singletrack.
> 
> My old 2011 Kona Unit won't take bigger rear and would need a new rim on the front to go wider.
> An N+1 2012 Giant Anthem was cheaper


This little recent upgrade helps a lot though...


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

NordieBoy said:


> Well, we'll find out next year then...


I'll add it to my calendar: "install rigid fork. Ride. Have a lousy time. Complain about it on forum. Reinstall suspension fork and fork the whole ordeal."


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

mack_turtle said:


> I have been riding a squish fork most of the time for the past few months. My Vassago Odis fork was gathering dust so I put it on and went for a spin. The change from a Fox34 to a 480 a-c steel fork was noticeable but the harsh ride was miserable. I did this for grins but no grins came to me. 20psi F, 24 R on 29x2.4s and everything made the bike feel like a pallet of bricks.
> 
> I kinda want to Make Rigid Great Again, but I also want to just enjoy riding. Do I need to re-adapt my riding technique or just accept the sissy spring fork? *What should I do with the unused fork? It makes a neat hum when I tap it on my head.*


I think you just answered your own question. The Odis fork is now a musical instrument you play with your melon.

If I only had one bike it would be a steel SS... with a suspension fork. If my steel SS was my 3rd bike it would be rigid. The sus fork is just more practical if you ride chunky terrain or need to keep up with them geared folks.

On a rigid setup I firmly believe a slightly wider rim and tire in front go a long way towards compliance. I also know from experience that not all steel or carbon forks ride the same. Some are much more compliant than others. (I don't know how the Odis stacks up, but it looks sweet)

A new front wheel isn't too much of an investment. A 35mm rim and a 2.6-2.8" tire might be a cheap experiment.

Next question: do you _want_ to ride a rigid fork for any good reason? Is there anything about the squish fork you don't like and would rather do away with?

(Full disclosure: I initially rode my current SS for 2-3 years with a rigid carbon fork on it, 1 season it was my only MTB. All the while I had a brand new Fox 34 sitting in a box but I refused to put it on. Finally I needed to install it for a race and afterwards I kind of liked it and left it on there for most of the summer. Eventually I went back to the rigid fork and was less excited about it than I was before. During this time my riding evolved and I had become used to suspension and droppers on other bikes, the rigid setup felt very limiting on chunky stuff, especially while going down hill.

Problem is that with the suspension fork on there I have a strong desire to add a dropper post as that is the new weak point in the setup. If I go that route it's just like every other bike. Slippery slope.

I like the rigid setup for its efficiency and snappiness, but lately I seek out bigger features and more aggressive terrain. Not sure where I'll end up long term? I have very mixed feelings about it as I'm often a purist at heart.)


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## jct (Mar 26, 2004)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Problem is that with the suspension fork on there I have a strong desire to add a dropper post as that is the new weak point in the setup. If I go that route it's just like every other bike. Slippery slope.
> 
> I like the rigid setup for its efficiency and snappiness, but lately I seek out bigger features and more aggressive terrain. Not sure where I'll end up long term? I have very mixed feelings about it as I'm often a purist at heart.)


what about a rigid setup with a dropper? that's been my go-to for the past 2 years. love it.


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

jct said:


> what about a rigid setup with a dropper? that's been my go-to for the past 2 years. love it.


Who'd wanna do that? Trbl


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

*OneSpeed* said:


> ...add a dropper... If I go that route it's just like every other bike.


Lead, follow or get out of the way.
=sParty


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

jct said:


> what about a rigid setup with a dropper? that's been my go-to for the past 2 years. love it.


I had my first Krampus set up that way.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Next question: do you _want_ to ride a rigid fork for any good reason? Is there anything about the squish fork you don't like and would rather do away with?


THAT is the big question, the elusive answer to which I have given way too much thought. because I don't know the answer, I am conflicted.

I have given myself a lot of reasons why I chose to ride ... the simplest bike I can _enjoy_. insofar as that includes a rigid fork, it turns out that most of my "reasons" are puritanical bullshit: less maintenance, it's "better for the environment", it's cheaper, it's macho... all nonsense. I know some people who ride rigid on the same trails that I ride and I bet they have reasons, reasons with which they are comfortable. I am free to set up my bike the way I like it, which, in spite of the macho stuff I adopted as my own, doesn't work for me.

I still have no use for a derailleur. maybe i'll put one on some day! riding a suspension fork is funner than a rigid fork for me. I like my dropper post, too, dammit. I feel liberated.

someone buy my rigid fork.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

mack_turtle said:


> someone buy my rigid fork.


OK. A-C? 15mm TA?


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## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

Another thing that I've found is that riding with drop bars has improved my rigid riding experiences. Turning your hand and elbow that 90 degrees did a lot for my shoulders and forearms. 

Also, I like to ride rigid bikes because I like to do something that is different. Honestly, the day that singlespeed rigid bikes are ridden by the majority of riders I'll be ripping my 12 speed full sus enduro bike. I think my singlespeeds are going to be safe for quite some time though...


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## SkolinIN (Feb 16, 2017)

small stubby bar ends, like Serfa Dual Density, have helped me in longer races for hand positioning and climbing. Thought I'd take them off after race but have kept them on.


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## CCSS (Apr 6, 2004)

mack_turtle said:


> I know some people who ride rigid on the same trails that I ride and I bet they have reasons...


* Less maintenance = no maintenance
* Precision 
* Zero fork bob
* Line picking adventure 
* Lighter
* Hanging with the squishy riders and feeling macho


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

CCSS said:


> * Less maintenance = no maintenance
> * Precision
> * Zero fork bob
> * Line picking adventure
> ...


* No need for deep tissue massage of the biceps. Just ride a rock garden.


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