# Looks like Yakima has a new rack.... Frontloader



## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

Universal fit out of the box.

Looks like they addressed a security issue with the Highroller, as the front mount is lockable via SKS core.

It is also a tad cheaper than the HighRoller.

Looks like it's going to be a companion rack to my current HighRoller (if/when I need to haul additional bikes on top of the car)

http://yakima.com/racks/bike-racks/product/8002103/frontloader.aspx


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Wonder what they're doing with three products basically the same. I figured they'd drop the Cobra after the Highroller appeared, as they're esentially the same product. This muddies the water even more.

The Highroller and Cobra, BTW, are lockable via the Accessory Lock Housing.

https://www.rei.com/product/494195


----------



## winter (Nov 30, 2009)

Interesting that the Front Loader is only rated for a 40 pound bike yet the High Roller is rated for a 50 pound bike.


----------



## cracksandracks.com (Oct 22, 2009)

winter said:


> Interesting that the Front Loader is only rated for a 40 pound bike yet the High Roller is rated for a 50 pound bike.


frontloader is designed to mount direct to factory crossbars, and weight limitation is often limited to the capacity of factory crossbars.
it's built on the same platform as the forklift, and is replacing the cobra/king cobras.

just released yesterday in very limited quantity....be sure to get in line for yours!


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Ahhh... That makes sense. Cobra remained too "upscale" to continue to be sold side-by-side with the Highroller, with the finicky red knob as the single largest detractor. 

This bare bones version of the HR makes much more sense.

Btw, there is no reason they couldn't make the HR compatible with goofy factory cross bars. Don't they do it with other racks with different "feet?"


----------



## cracksandracks.com (Oct 22, 2009)

it's all in the tray design whether or not it would work on factory bars...in fact, you could make any bike rack work if you used the yakima horizontal mighty mounts...

i suppose if they made the hr fit on factory xbars out of the box, there wouldn't be a reason to sell base rack systems!!!


----------



## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

cracksandracks.com said:


> it's all in the tray design whether or not it would work on factory bars...in fact, you could make any bike rack work if you used the yakima horizontal mighty mounts...
> 
> i suppose if they made the hr fit on factory xbars out of the box, there wouldn't be a reason to sell base rack systems!!!


Not all wagons/SUV's have crossbars, just side rails from the factory. Cross bars are usually an accessory item.

With the flush side rails...it keeps Yakima, Thule, etc in business for the cross bar systems.


----------



## stock r (Jun 20, 2008)

I will probably buy a pair next month once the bank account is a little happier...

Review shortly after?


----------



## cracksandracks.com (Oct 22, 2009)

we will be installing some, hopefully next week, when we get our first batch in, on a 2010 subaru outback.
one of the things about the old cobra and king cobra that we found is that a heavier downhill bike actually pulled the head of the carriage bolt out from underneatthe the tray, where the rack attached to the bar...on a yakima bar.
it was the same customer twice...
the actual mechanism to hold hte front wheel was plenty strong, but did allow, just like the highroller, some shimmy in the bike. 
on the forklift, which is the fork mount version of this rack, the hardware for the rear is really nice, and the tray itself is split, so it's not a typical bike tray like you would see on the copperhead, or steelhead.

it will be interesting to see when we get it.


----------



## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

scott- I have a bmw 335 coupe with factory racks (made by thule) the yakima configurator does not list the highroller as a viable option - only the front loader - is this a mistake on their part?

if so which one would your reccomend (my bike is a touch north of 40lbs)

thnks


----------



## mtymxdh (Jan 14, 2005)

apparently they fixed also this issue:


----------



## cracksandracks.com (Oct 22, 2009)

that's exactly the issue i was trying to point out. the new tray style will alleviate that.

as far as that bmw 335, those bars are similar to the thule aero bars, and no yakima bike mount is going to fit those bars unless you're using one like the forklift or the new frontloader. 
if you want something a little more oem looking, the thule sidearm with the xadapt 9 is a great option to fit that track that runs along the top of the bmw roof rack if you're not crazy about the frontloader.
i use sidearms myself, and really love them. i know some people have pointed out a couple of things about them rubbing their fork, etc. but i'm not so concerned about that.


----------



## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

ordered from you guys, to try it out....

Trying to mount a highroller onto a Thule/Mont Blanc bar?

the front mounting points can be easily mounted using T-bolts. It is the rear mounting that you run into an issue, or you just use mighty mounts (there is another thread with a Benz with its OE bars running the HighRoller)

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=524929


----------



## GuruAtma (May 17, 2004)

Ok, so can someone explain the difference between the 3 Yakima "keep the front wheel on" roof racks?
I'm about to get one to accommodate a new through axle bike, but I'm not really sure what the more expensive racks offer.

And any comparisons to the Thule version would be appreciated as well.

Thanks


----------



## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

GuruAtma said:


> Ok, so can someone explain the difference between the 3 Yakima "keep the front wheel on" roof racks?
> I'm about to get one to accommodate a new through axle bike, but I'm not really sure what the more expensive racks offer.
> 
> And any comparisons to the Thule version would be appreciated as well.
> ...


there is also the raptors that grab onto the frame also.

But...It started with the king Cobra. The knob that you use to raise the rear bar is mounted on the front and on the bottom. It was sort of inconvenient to use (especially if you had a fairing).

Next came the highroller which came out about last year. the securing/release knob is now located up high. the rear wheel tray also doesn't interfere with the rear attachment point.

Both, out of the box fits round & square bars only. The HighRoller is the pricier of the 2. You can get Mighty Mounts for universal fitment.

Then now the front loader, which offers universal fitment out of the box. THe construction isn't as solid as the Highroller though.

Thule SideArm uses a stop for the front wheel with a swing arm to essentially wedge the front wheel. Different from the "V" Yakima uses.


----------



## GuruAtma (May 17, 2004)

tednugent said:


> there is also the raptors that grab onto the frame also.
> 
> But...It started with the king Cobra. The knob that you use to raise the rear bar is mounted on the front and on the bottom. It was sort of inconvenient to use (especially if you had a fairing).
> 
> ...


So in terms of securing your brand new expensive mountain bike, the High Roller is the best of the Yakima racks, but how does it compare to the Thule equivalent? The Thule one looks like what they have on buses.


----------



## nanook93 (Oct 16, 2008)

Speedub.Nate said:


> Btw, there is no reason they couldn't make the HR compatible with goofy factory cross bars. Don't they do it with other racks with different "feet?"





cracksandracks.com said:


> it's all in the tray design whether or not it would work on factory bars...in fact, you could make any bike rack work if you used the yakima horizontal mighty mounts...
> 
> i suppose if they made the hr fit on factory xbars out of the box, there wouldn't be a reason to sell base rack systems!!!


I found it very simple/easy to put a High Roller on the factory rack of my Outback Sport. Very solid attachment just using three 14H Mighty Mounts. I like it enough that I'm considering getting a second one with my REI dividend this year...


----------



## cracksandracks.com (Oct 22, 2009)

nanook93 said:


> I found it very simple/easy to put a High Roller on the factory rack of my Outback Sport. Very solid attachment just using three 14H Mighty Mounts. I like it enough that I'm considering getting a second one with my REI dividend this year...


now they aren't producing new mighty mounts anymore, so if crossbars change, the options will be limited in the future.


----------



## nanook93 (Oct 16, 2008)

cracksandracks.com said:


> now they aren't producing new mighty mounts anymore, so if crossbars change, the options will be limited in the future.


Fortunately, I already have enough mighty mounts for the second High Roller! Of course, I'll probably have to by towers, bars, and what not if I ever want to move them to another vehicle...


----------



## 123ski (Jun 16, 2008)

does anyone have any experience with mounting a bike rack directly to a chevy blazer/tahoe/suburban factory crossbars? I have heard of crossbars not being strong enough for the wind resistance that hits bikes?


----------



## kisada (Mar 28, 2010)

I just got high rollers ... did I make a mistake? should I have gotten these instead?


----------



## spazzy (Aug 15, 2004)

123ski said:


> does anyone have any experience with mounting a bike rack directly to a chevy blazer/tahoe/suburban factory crossbars? I have heard of crossbars not being strong enough for the wind resistance that hits bikes?


My old man got a suburban about 2 years ago, he owns his own construction business and puts ladders and planks on the factory bars. Hasn't had a problem, hes waiting for something to crack and then upgrade, except there isnt much out there for ladder racks for a suburban.

I drive a blazer, I haven put a whole lot on the factory bars, just a canoe a few times and its not exactly light (50ish pounds), It handled the weight fine.


----------



## stock r (Jun 20, 2008)

I ordered a pair of these from Cracksandracks.com.

ETA is tomorrow! Hopefully I'll have pics and review for next week. Can't wait.


----------



## cracksandracks.com (Oct 22, 2009)

stock r said:


> I ordered a pair of these from Cracksandracks.com.
> 
> ETA is tomorrow! Hopefully I'll have pics and review for next week. Can't wait.


i think you are going to like them...we have installed a couple already and have one on display...front mounting is super slick.

hopefully worth the wait! :thumbsup:


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

kisada said:


> I just got high rollers ... did I make a mistake? should I have gotten these instead?


No and No. You're fine.


----------



## 123ski (Jun 16, 2008)

spazzy said:


> My old man got a suburban about 2 years ago, he owns his own construction business and puts ladders and planks on the factory bars. Hasn't had a problem, hes waiting for something to crack and then upgrade, except there isnt much out there for ladder racks for a suburban.
> 
> I drive a blazer, I haven put a whole lot on the factory bars, just a canoe a few times and its not exactly light (50ish pounds), It handled the weight fine.


Thanks for the input...i would just hate to see my $3000 mountain bike fly off of my $3000 car..haha


----------



## kisada (Mar 28, 2010)

just mounted our bikes in my HRs ... um that quick release button is either a joke or I'm doing something wrong


----------



## nanook93 (Oct 16, 2008)

kisada said:


> just mounted our bikes in my HRs ... um that quick release button is either a joke or I'm doing something wrong


What is it doing (or not doing), specifically? I have two HRs on the top of my 'Ru and I have had really good experiences with them.


----------



## kisada (Mar 28, 2010)

nanook93 said:


> What is it doing (or not doing), specifically? I have two HRs on the top of my 'Ru and I have had really good experiences with them.


So I back off on the tension with the knob ... and no matter how hard we try (I say WE because there were two of us taking turns and even trying together) we cannot get the quick release button to work.

So what I've been doing so far is just using the knob to back it out all the way until it drops on my hand while I'm holding the fork of the bike with my other hand.

Am I doing something wrong?


----------



## BigLarry (Jul 30, 2004)

kisada said:


> So I back off on the tension with the knob ... and no matter how hard we try (I say WE because there were two of us taking turns and even trying together) we cannot get the quick release button to work.
> 
> So what I've been doing so far is just using the knob to back it out all the way until it drops on my hand while I'm holding the fork of the bike with my other hand.
> 
> Am I doing something wrong?


I have the same issue. It's impossible to press down to release the red button when the arm is tight.

What I do is unscrew the knob a turn or so to realease the tension a little. Then I need to press up on the arm with one hand to further releive tension, while hitting the red button hard with the the other hand. It's still tough but possible then.

What I do more often, as well as others I know, is the same as you - we just unscrew the knob (until the arm falls on my hand as you say) and forget about the red button quick release. An advantage is that I can unscrew with one hand while the other holds the bike, and it's almost as fast.

Bottom line, forget the red button.


----------



## nanook93 (Oct 16, 2008)

kisada said:


> So I back off on the tension with the knob ... and no matter how hard we try (I say WE because there were two of us taking turns and even trying together) we cannot get the quick release button to work.
> 
> So what I've been doing so far is just using the knob to back it out all the way until it drops on my hand while I'm holding the fork of the bike with my other hand.
> 
> Am I doing something wrong?


That's weird, the buttons on both of mine work just fine. I back them off a couple turns until they are just loose on the tire. I usually grab the arm and hold it so it is slack (no pressure either way) and the button releases it easily for lowering.


----------



## GuruAtma (May 17, 2004)

I do exactly as Larry. Forget the button, just use the knob. By the time the arm is loose enough for the button, I don't need it any more---and I need to hold up the bike.


----------



## kisada (Mar 28, 2010)

With so many of us having problems with this I think Yakima should be doing something about it!


----------



## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

The red button is fine with my HighRoller

Now that I just picked up my Front Loader (thanks Cracks & Racks) from FedEx....

Initial thoughts...

I like my High Roller better. I can't mount a HR, FL & Skybox12 with both wheel hoops facing forward on my Passat wagon with Yak 58" bars. The FL has to face to the rear.

The HR's are able to straddle the LowRider mounts. The FL's can't, so they mount at the outer ends of the bar.









The FL hoops don't seem to hold the wheel on my road bike with 700x25c as tight as the HR (Havn't tried my Rockhopper yet). And the red knob... is just a knob.

The HR is my primary bike holder.

If Yakima can make a jaw so that it can straddle the LowRider like the HR, I'd be happy









Not too confident.









better, not my cup of tea. But when hockey season ends.... the cargo box goes into the garage


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

I played with one this weekend.

The missing QR button is a big detractor. It took an awful lot of turns to get the smaller hoop moved from the upright to the stowed position.

I like the stops for the big hoop -- plastic block resting solidly against plastic block. It felt very solid.


----------



## cracksandracks.com (Oct 22, 2009)

the qr button is missing from the front loader and we noticed it here when we put it up on the display wall, although if you hold the hoop up a bit, you can spin that knob down pretty quickly.
while it would have been nice on there, we still feel the frontloader is a great value and a great rack for factory bars....for $20 more you can get a highroller + $35 worth of mighty mounts (if they even fit your car) and have the QR button...we're thinking it's not worth it....


----------



## wankel (Mar 7, 2004)

Does the Frontloader work more like the Cobra...you roll the bike forward and the small hoop automatically comes up the back, then tighten the red knob (which takes quite a few turns on the Cobra)?

What I like about the Cobra is that I can lift the bike up, roll it forward and then let go before having to tighten the knob. Is this possible on the HighRoller?


----------



## cracksandracks.com (Oct 22, 2009)

wankel said:


> Does the Frontloader work more like the Cobra...you roll the bike forward and the small hoop automatically comes up the back, then tighten the red knob (which takes quite a few turns on the Cobra)?
> 
> What I like about the Cobra is that I can lift the bike up, roll it forward and then let go before having to tighten the knob. Is this possible on the HighRoller?


yeah, you can load your front wheel in there, and it will lever the hoop up and hold it in place while you tighten the knob.


----------



## stock r (Jun 20, 2008)

Got my pair of Frontloaders from Cracksandracks yesterday and installed w/ the lockcores w/o a hitch. Unfortunately my factory crossbars sit pretty far back so I may have to reverse mount the rack.

Haven't had a chance to try loading bikes up yet. Pics to come.


----------



## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

So, I took off my Skybox tonight...

With the fairing (pics when there is daylight), I cannot install it so it sits at the outer edges of the fairing, because the front bar tightening knob interferes with it....so it sits further towards the center than what I would prefer.










the highroller straddles the outer plastic support (with tightening knob) so it can sit as far as as possible.

the front cannot straddle it.


----------



## dpawelczyk (Nov 8, 2010)

*Do Not Buy This Rack*

Please do your research before purchasing this rack. A friend recently purchased this rack because of the "ease of installation" to factory Audi crossbars. Although it is easy to install, we grew skeptical after watching the bikes move while driving. I have had a Thule Big Mouth for 2 years which I used hundreds of times to transport my Trek Fuel EX8 which I've had no problems with at all. Although my bike moves a little on the top of my car, it was nothing close to the amount of moving the bikes did while on the FrontLoader. This weekend, driving at 60 mph in the slow lane (which in California is considered extremely slow) my Fuel popped out of my friends FrontLoader onto the freeway. Being skeptical of its stability from the start, we made sure to tighten the red knob as tight as it could go before starting our trip, yet the bike still escaped. Please do not purchase this rack. The rails which the bike tires rest on alone on this rack are reason to doubt its stability. This rack needs the U shaped one piece rail like its father "High Roller" carrier. My trek was not a tank,.. one of the lighter All Mountain bikes of its class. This rack system at least needs a strap (like the one in the rear) positioned at the bottom of the front wheel to keep the front of the bike from flying upward and off the car (as my Trek did). If you care about your bike,even half as much as I did, you should think twice before purchasing this rack. I'm thankful my bike didn't fly into the car behind us.


----------



## saxen (Jun 15, 2009)

wtf


----------



## dpawelczyk (Nov 8, 2010)

kisada said:


> With so many of us having problems with this I think Yakima should be doing something about it!


I'm normally a reader of message boards but not one to do much posting, (maybe what happened to my bike this weekend is what my punishment for taking and not giving back to the mtbr community), but this rack should not be on the market unless they add a strap to the front or include the lock to the cable that wraps around the frame.


----------



## 123ski (Jun 16, 2008)

great..just purchased 2 front loaders and can't return them..not sure what I should do.


----------



## BigLarry (Jul 30, 2004)

dpawelczyk said:


> ... Although my bike moves a little on the top of my car, it was nothing close to the amount of moving the bikes did while on the FrontLoader. .. my Fuel popped out of my friends FrontLoader onto the freeway. ...This rack needs the U shaped one piece rail like its father "High Roller" carrier. ..This rack system at least needs a strap (like the one in the rear) positioned at the bottom of the front wheel to keep the front of the bike from flying upward and off the car....


Thanks for the warning. Looks to be a serious defect in the design. Sorry for your loss. I hope insurance or Yakima steps up to cover you.

I'm trying to understand the technical reason for the failure, as I own the Highroller and worry if a similar problem exists for that rack. Personally, I've never seen an issue and it seems stable to me.

I read the technical information you gave above. I still don't understand a few things.
1. Why didn't the rear strap keep the bike on the car? (maybe causing damage to the car)
2. How are the bikes moving while secured in this front carrier, forward and back, side to side, just loose,...? How would a U shaped piece of the High Roller help? 
3. How is the bike able to slip out of the front hoops? Up and away through a weak hold? The HighRoller has a similar two-U hold, but the front tire looks to be held solid. I can't pound the bike out, even with a lot of force. 
4. From what you see, does the design of the HighRoller prevent the problem? If so, how?

Thanks


----------



## dpawelczyk (Nov 8, 2010)

123ski-depending on the price you paid, I would try and cut your losses and sell them. Find a different Yakima setup if you are brand loyal.
I will keep you updated after talking with Yakima tomorrow morning. I hope they have something more to offer than the typical corporate response. I have heard homeowners insurance may cover the bike as well.
BigLarry-
As for the technical reasons for failure..
1. The rear strap that wraps around the wheel and the small platform that slides on the two cylinders (wheel platform) slid straight off the rack. If you look at the back tire of my bike in both pictures, the strap is still attached and tight as ever along the wheel... which means nothing when it slides so easily along the two cylinders (wheel platform). The rear end piece (U Shaped) that snaps on the back of the carrier slid right off when the real wheel strap piece slid back. Take a look at the picture closely and you will see the strap (red ratchet) and the platform that slides along the two cylinders, still attached to the tire. I'm no engineer, (although I have several friends who are and shook their heads when I showed them this rack) but one of the major flaws with this system is how the bike tires don't wedge into anything, they simply rest on the top of two extremely shallow platforms (the rear is connected to the strap and slides onto the two cylinders, while the front platform is on the front of the carrier. Every other bike carrier I've used has the deep square U shaped gutter-like rails which swallowed/hugged a good portion of the bottom of the tires. 
2. The bikes mainly sway side to side. When looking through the Audi moonroof from the passenger seat, before I told myself to stop worrying and trust the new rack, I noticed both of the bikes would hop a little when on the freeway. My guess is the constant movement allows windflow to get under the front wheel while positioned in the frontloader. Once again I am not a scientist or engineer, but an additional strap on the front wheel, applying direct downward force seems like an extremely simple solution. I'm guessing they couldn't get it to work with the new frontloader universal mount. 
3. With such a shallow point of contact, the wheels of the bike are being pushed by the wind when it's on top of your car, so the bike is constantly trying to wiggle its way out of the two U shaped hoops. I'm pretty positive that is why some are noticing that the red knob tends to loosen up by itself. Yakima has a pretty clever disclosure on the instruction manual of the frontloader, probably on all of their instruction manuals that states it is the drivers responsibility to periodically check the tightness and stability of that little red knob. I did the same thing you did with the frontloaders before we left for our trip this weekend. I got on top of the car and pulled and shifted the bikes every which way to assure myself. However, no pulling, tugging, or jerking can replicate what the wind does to the bike while on top of a car going 60. 
4. I am going to go to a LBS tomorrow that carries Yakima and see if they have a highroller in stock. The only thing I can think of that might prevent the problem would be a deeper gutter for the front wheel/tire to rest in. 
The things I have always looked for and will continue to look for in a roofrack system is deep gutters for your bike tires to wedge into and not move about freely, direct downward force, whether it's a strap at the bottom of both wheels, or a rear strap and something that is on top of the front wheel applying direct downward force, and a main mount which is operated by pulling and clamping (opposed to turning a red dial with one hand. The red dial attached to a long skinny spring that never really has a locking/end point seems strange to me.


----------



## BigLarry (Jul 30, 2004)

Thanks for the info, dpawelczyk

I am stunned at two things:
1. The front wheel securing loops and red knob will actually loosen up over time and let the wheel come out!
2. The rear wheel strap will just let the bike slide out the end of the carrier!

Ouch!

I'm going to check my HighRoller more often, and see what I feel about it for future bike portage.


----------



## dpawelczyk (Nov 8, 2010)

I contacted Yakima today and was given an address to send the rack and two estimates of the damage to my bike and appraised value. They also said they would send me a new frontloader. I will keep updates coming as they come through for anyone curious.
Thanks.


----------



## cracksandracks.com (Oct 22, 2009)

i'm sorry to see those pictures of your bike. they're like crime scene photos....hard to look at, but you can't stop staring at the carnage. i can feel your pain and am really sorry your bike is in its current shape.

i've loaded alot of different bikes on the frontloader and have never seen the problems you experienced at the onset sure, i see some side to side action, but never the way you make it sound. 

i look forward to hearing about the outcome.


----------



## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

Overtightening the rear hoop is actually bad on the front loader based on my observations with my road bike.

When you overtighten, you're squeezing the front tire out of the front support hoops so that it no longer rests on the bottom of the hoop (the plastic thing), which in turn does not secure it as well.

I have driven 80+mph with my road bike (granted, it is a road bike) on the Front Loader.


----------



## calbertine (Nov 11, 2010)

But Ted whether you drive 80+mph or 120mph, is it reasonable to focus on overtightening the rear hoop? I have to say that sounds almost completely irrelevant. To base a small part of the product (we're talking about an extra click or two) on such a large margin of error would be absurd. It is the company's responsibility to have a quality product with reasonable instructions, not have the consumer conduct a science experiment.


----------



## cracksandracks.com (Oct 22, 2009)

calbertine said:


> But Ted whether you drive 80+mph or 120mph, is it reasonable to focus on overtightening the rear hoop? I have to say that sounds almost completely irrelevant. To base a small part of the product (we're talking about an extra click or two) on such a large margin of error would be absurd. It is the company's responsibility to have a quality product with reasonable instructions, not have the consumer conduct a science experiment.


good points...

at what point does this specific circumstance begin to sound like operator error? i'm not making any assumptions, and i'll likely catch $h!t for this, but let's say the wheel hoops weren't set for a 26" bike, but were set for a 20" bike....we'll never know.

i feel really bad about this guys bike, but this situation isn't shaking my confidence in this product right now...and it won't, unless i hear from yakima that they recognize an error with the product.


----------



## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

calbertine said:


> But Ted whether you drive 80+mph or 120mph, is it reasonable to focus on overtightening the rear hoop? I have to say that sounds almost completely irrelevant. To base a small part of the product (we're talking about an extra click or two) on such a large margin of error would be absurd. It is the company's responsibility to have a quality product with reasonable instructions, not have the consumer conduct a science experiment.


is it reasonable to focus on the rear hoop? Yes it is, because it part of problem solving, to figure out all contributing factors, no matter how absurd it may sound.

Perfect example: the challenger explosion, a "simple" o-ring failure was the root cause for the explosion.

Did I do a science experiment? Nope, just an observation when I first recieved it, trying to crank down on the red knob, because my first instinct, like anyone else would


----------



## kntr (Jan 25, 2004)

After seeing pics like the one above, Im glad we make our racks out of metal ourselves. Plus my rack only cost about $60.

I bought this $500 car just for mountain biking. Yes, the rack is bolted to the roof. No way bikes are coming off this rack.


----------



## dpawelczyk (Nov 8, 2010)

Just keeping everyone posted as promised.. for those of you curious. 
I called Yakima for the second time. Although I didn't expect them to sound pleased with my phone call, the guy on the other end of the call sounded sympathetic. I am impressed with the customer service so far. They have answered all questions quickly. They allowed me to send all the pictures and appraisals (receipts) to their support e-mail address referencing the case number. They informed me that it is a 2-3 week process and they evaluate the rack to see what failed. What worries me is the fact that nothing is wrong with the rack itself. It still tightens. I am pointing out the fact that the rear strap did nothing to support the rack, and the many flaws mentioned with the red knob (what is tight enough). Although a person who can't apply reasonable force with their hands to tighten the knob probably shouldn't be gripping a set of handlebars (depending on the type of riding I guess), I still think this racks major flaw comes back to the knob. I took a look at my old Thule rack (big mouth) and it amazes me at how much larger the spring in the arms that wrap the frame of the bike. The straps do not slide easily up and down the rails of the carrier either. 
Once again, I will keep you posted as the case progresses. Everything on my end will be completed as of tomorrow (11/16). I'll post as soon as I hear back from Yakima. 
Thanks for all the discussion and I hope my experience will be useful to many of you.


----------



## saxen (Jun 15, 2009)

whats the update
??- i have been looking at racks latly, planning on buying one just after i get xmas out of the way, this thread is the one thing holding me down from going this rack or the highroller- im starting to think maybe i should go fork mount, SR, or maybe i should just go with a different brand........... would be nice to see what happens


----------



## dpawelczyk (Nov 8, 2010)

Update: called Yakima today and they have received all necessary receipts, rack, and estimate of total damage (bike and wheelset records). 
They said the process would take a total of 2 weeks when I originally spoke with them. They received the last piece last Tuesday (11/23), was a holiday workweek so I expect it to take longer. They informed me that I will receive a phonecall once a decision has been made. I will update the forum as soon as I hear from them, or decide to place another call if I don't hear from them within the promised timeline. Pretty extensive process..


----------



## dpawelczyk (Nov 8, 2010)

Last Update: the call from Yakima was received today. They kept their promise and called within the two week period. They found that the carrier was in fact defective and are reimbursing me for the price paid for my bike, along with money paid for the new wheelset. I wasn't very optimistic about the situation,.. I'm extremely impressed. 
Hope this has helped some of you make a decision or two. 
Thanks.


----------



## cracksandracks.com (Oct 22, 2009)

dpawelczyk said:


> Last Update: the call from Yakima was received today. They kept their promise and called within the two week period. They found that the carrier was in fact defective and are reimbursing me for the price paid for my bike, along with money paid for the new wheelset. I wasn't very optimistic about the situation,.. I'm extremely impressed.
> Hope this has helped some of you make a decision or two.
> Thanks.


:thumbsup:


----------



## jamfan (Dec 21, 2010)

*get the replacement frontloader yet?*



dpawelczyk said:


> I contacted Yakima today and was given an address to send the rack and two estimates of the damage to my bike and appraised value. They also said they would send me a new frontloader. I will keep updates coming as they come through for anyone curious.
> Thanks.


did they ever explain what part on the frontloader was defective? have you gotten the new rack yet, and is the new one working OK for you?


----------



## cohenfive (Jan 12, 2004)

bumping this up, does anyone have an update on this? i just got back from rei and they really like the frontloader. i have a thule 594xt which i hate because it is so darn tough to get off and on...the yakima is easy, but not so good if the bike doesn't stay put...i wish my old thule bigmouth would fit my new factory aero bars but alas they don't....i loved that carrier.


----------



## jamfan (Dec 21, 2010)

cohenfive said:


> bumping this up, does anyone have an update on this? i just got back from rei and they really like the frontloader. i have a thule 594xt which i hate because it is so darn tough to get off and on...the yakima is easy, but not so good if the bike doesn't stay put...i wish my old thule bigmouth would fit my new factory aero bars but alas they don't....i loved that carrier.


I ended up getting the Frontloader for my Honda Element. It is indeed very easy to put on and off. I just took it off to save a little mpg on a long road trip. So far no problems with it here, including highway driving at 80mph.


----------



## Huncowboy (Feb 21, 2011)

dpawelczyk said:


> Last Update: the call from Yakima was received today. They kept their promise and called within the two week period. They found that the carrier was in fact defective and are reimbursing me for the price paid for my bike, along with money paid for the new wheelset. I wasn't very optimistic about the situation,.. I'm extremely impressed.
> Hope this has helped some of you make a decision or two.
> Thanks.


Just ordered the Frontloader myself (after finally giving up on trunk based systems) to carry my fuel ex. I have to admit, customer service like that is rare nowadays. Had you not posted that update, I would have canceled my order. I think I will just put an additional strap on the front wheel, just in case, and will drive slow with frequent stops.

Btw did your car also get damaged? My bike will go onto a brand new 550i and damage to the bike is the least of my worries.

(Btw the guy who bought the $500 red car for the bikes... a few posts above. You are smart.)


----------



## cohenfive (Jan 12, 2004)

so far i like the frontloader and have had no problems with the bike not staying right where it needs to stay.


----------



## Huncowboy (Feb 21, 2011)

I just took this out for my 2nd ride today. I like this bike holder a lot. Very easy to mount and dismount. 

Today I drove highway and I have to say I was able to observe the front wheel vibrating at about 65mph but not at 60. I can easily see how the front wheel could fly out when hitting a bump especially in headwinds even at 60-65mph. Especially when the tire is at low pressure. With the 26" setting, if you connect the points (in your mind) where the wheel contacts the frontloader you will realize it is just barely above the center of the wheel. May be I will experience with the 700 setting. Either way I think my solution to this will be an additional cargo strap for the front wheel. That way if I get a flat that can't be repaired, I should still be able to transport my bike home on this... or so I hope.


----------



## cohenfive (Jan 12, 2004)

i have been using the frontloader for a few weeks now, and while i see a bit of vibration of the front (at speeds up to 80 mph!), it is nothing that i am concerned about. one thing i have done is to use the 29 inch setting for the front wheel...at least for me that seems to 'seat' the front tire better into the carrier. i am not worried about the stability of the bike set up this way. that being said, my favorite carrier was the thule 597 xtr super g, which was definitely more solid (but doesn't fit the factory aero bars on my new car). i also tried the thule sidearm which i sold immediately as it was a total pita to get on and off the car. i may check out the yakima high roller if i can find one at a good price. it looks a little beefier than the frontloader although the basic design is the same.


----------



## Huncowboy (Feb 21, 2011)

cohenfive said:


> i have been using the frontloader for a few weeks now, and while i see a bit of vibration of the front (at speeds up to 80 mph!), it is nothing that i am concerned about. one thing i have done is to use the 29 inch setting for the front wheel...at least for me that seems to 'seat' the front tire better into the carrier. i am not worried about the stability of the bike set up this way. that being said, my favorite carrier was the thule 597 xtr super g, which was definitely more solid (but doesn't fit the factory aero bars on my new car). i also tried the thule sidearm which i sold immediately as it was a total pita to get on and off the car. i may check out the yakima high roller if i can find one at a good price. it looks a little beefier than the frontloader although the basic design is the same.


I am definitely going to try that 29" setting. May be that way I don't need a strap. Btw That Thule super G looks good. Why did you switch?


----------



## cohenfive (Jan 12, 2004)

as i mentioned, i had to switch because i got a different car, and of course the thule bars that i had for my old car were specific to that car...so i had to get new bars for the new car, and the only ones that fit are of course factory aero bars...which of course don't fit the super g...so i had to get a new carrier...tried the sidearm and now the frontloader. if the super g fit my new bars i would not have bothered getting the frontloader, but i think it is fine.


----------



## Huncowboy (Feb 21, 2011)

cohenfive said:


> as i mentioned, i had to switch because i got a different car, and of course the thule bars that i had for my old car were specific to that car...so i had to get new bars for the new car, and the only ones that fit are of course factory aero bars...which of course don't fit the super g...so i had to get a new carrier...tried the sidearm and now the frontloader. if the super g fit my new bars i would not have bothered getting the frontloader, but i think it is fine.


sorry missed that part


----------



## Jinxy (Aug 1, 2010)

Yakima is recalling some of their Frontloaders. Appears they're trying to do the right thing and replacing defective units. Make sure yours is OK. Link: http://flrecall.yakima.com/


----------



## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

I'll second what a few others have said. If you have large MTB tires, high volume or wider, use the 700 setting and not the 26" one. I've only used that so far. The front wheel seats much better that way and seems much more secure. I experimented with all the settings on my living room floor and came to this conclusion before I ever put the rack on my vehicle. It's been working really well for me so far.


----------



## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Jinxy said:


> Yakima is recalling some of their Frontloaders. Appears they're trying to do the right thing and replacing defective units. Make sure yours is OK. Link: http://flrecall.yakima.com/


Thanks for that. Even though I just bought mine, I'll have to check them when I get home.


----------



## GuruAtma (May 17, 2004)

BaeckerX1 said:


> I'll second what a few others have said. If you have large MTB tires, high volume or wider, use the 700 setting and not the 26" one. I've only used that so far. The front wheel seats much better that way and seems much more secure. I experimented with all the settings on my living room floor and came to this conclusion before I ever put the rack on my vehicle. It's been working really well for me so far.


I have the High Roller, and on that rack the 700c and 26" are the same setting. It has a setting for 29" and DH tires. I usually use this larger setting. When I use the 26" setting, I notice it grabs the wheel slightly lower than the axle, so a big enough force could pull the bike out of the rack.


----------



## cracksandracks.com (Oct 22, 2009)

Yakima has issued a recall of the Yakima Frontloader....

I started a New Thread....Click here for more information....


----------



## cohenfive (Jan 12, 2004)

wow! that's big news...i have two of these, both the 'old' ones. i guess i'm getting two of the new ones. i wonder if they would swap them for the high roller (plus some cash), that looks a little beefier to me. thanks for posting, i would never have known otherwise.


----------



## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

I have 5 settings on my 2, so apparently they're not affected. Mine doesn't look like the picture though. I have 5 settings, but my smallest is the 20 inch, which seems way further down the arm than what they show in that picture. It's closer to the Yakima logo. Mine does have the separate 26" and 700c settings, so I guess I'm good. What specifically is the difference that made the new design better/safer than the old one? Just curious.


----------



## cracksandracks.com (Oct 22, 2009)

BaeckerX1 said:


> I have 5 settings on my 2, so apparently they're not affected. Mine doesn't look like the picture though. I have 5 settings, but my smallest is the 20 inch, which seems way further down the arm than what they show in that picture. It's closer to the Yakima logo. Mine does have the separate 26" and 700c settings, so I guess I'm good. What specifically is the difference that made the new design better/safer than the old one? Just curious.


not sure exactly...i think i read an additional metal plate...i will confirm on the recall thread early next week.


----------



## cohenfive (Jan 12, 2004)

i spoke to yakima on the recall, and it doesn't sound like they made any significant change other than to reflect the additional settings (five vs four), but i'm not sure how the new settings 'sit' on the tire that will be more secure. i didn't have a problem with the old ones, although i am getting them replaced for free. they made the recall totally painless. you don't even send the old racks back, just a couple of parts from the mechanism that secures each wheel (so the old ones cannot be used). i wanted to get the high roller instead as it is beefier, but of course the highroller has a different way of attaching to the bars which is much more of a p.i.t.a., in a way that is similar to the thule sidearm. the high roller's higher weight tolerance necessitated the different attachment mechanism according to yakima, but that took it out of the equation for me. the sidearm and i guess the highroller are great if you keep the carrier on the rack, but if you take it on and off frequently, fastening 6 bolts each and every time is more effort than at least i would like to be doing....


----------



## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

On my FrontLoader, with the 4-settings.... when I throw my road bike up top, the 700c/26" setting doesn't hold the wheel properly... as you tighten it, the bottom of tire actually lifts up. It fits securely in the 29" setting.

I suspect the hoop longer, and the positions are up higher, so it secures higher on the tire.

The pic looks like the hoop is longer


----------



## cohenfive (Jan 12, 2004)

i should be getting my replacements soon and will do a comparison, you are likely correct given the nature of the problems they have had.


----------



## Maverick910 (May 30, 2011)

As an additional precaution, I always secure my bike with a locking cable wrapped tightly through the bike frame and under the factory installed roof rack cross bar. 

No problems to-date but am now engaged in the recall process. (Notified by US mail and filled out online form.)


----------



## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

got the updated one last week... the front hoop does hold the tire higher at its increments.

But.. installing the "cup" on the rear hoop.... now it doesn't catch the tire as much, in order to roll the bike forward and raise the rear hoop...

Looks like the MTB is only going on the HighRoller vs my road bike can do on either the High Roller or Front loader.

I did find, if you screw in the knob slightly to slightly raise the rear hoop (about 10-20°), it catches the front tire better, so that you have an easier time securing the bike


----------



## krazychowmein (Jun 27, 2008)

Sorry not to get too far off track here but I have a Highroller and noticed what many are saying here. The front tire seems to float, it's stable but the front tire is not sitting on the tray itself. For the folks saying they set the rack to the 29" setting is your tire now sitting on the tray? 

Front tire is a 2.35. 

Thanks!


----------



## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

krazychowmein said:


> Sorry not to get too far off track here but I have a Highroller and noticed what many are saying here. The front tire seems to float, it's stable but the front tire is not sitting on the tray itself. For the folks saying they set the rack to the 29" setting is your tire now sitting on the tray?
> 
> Front tire is a 2.35.
> 
> Thanks!


my highroller works fine with my 29-er.... so I cannot answer your question


----------

