# Show us your tuned components!



## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

I always love to see peoples tuned components. Drilled bar clamps etc. Lets see your modified parts and let us know what you saved with the modification's! 

Let the tuned part p0rn thread begin!


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

I'll get the ball rolling..

Here is my modified old school Kona seatpost clamp. Clamp slotted, and the whole thing polished up. Ive not weighed it yet as there's a Ti bolt on the way to complete it.


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## mk00 (Jul 30, 2008)

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=554936

I have many tuned components on my bike, but have no good fotos...


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## ayjay69 (Mar 9, 2008)

Here is my Campagnolo Fron derl  also the 44 XT 760 ring in my XTR cransket and some adapter for rear 160mm.

I hope you like it,


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

*odd mod jobs*

have to admit i've been slacking off lately & should get back in the workshop

here's some unfinished Magura caliper mounts and a seatpost shim, before they were attacked i think all 3 weighed around 22g

........edit........
added a pic of a finished white ceramic mod Magura caliper that weighed 16g


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

That chainring looks scary tuned!! But its  as ..... 

I have an old M952 rear mech that Im planning to tune to the max! Im gonna slot the linkage plates and change all the hardware too. 

Anyone see Nino's tuned SID forks? Wow! 

Keep it coming guys!


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

mk00 said:


> https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=554936
> 
> I have many tuned components on my bike, but have no good fotos...


Wow! Those pics deserve a second airing I think :thumbsup:



















Great stuff man!


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Any more tuned parts to show off?


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

mikesnowdon said:


> Ive not weighed it yet as there's a Ti bolt on the way to complete it.


On the way since 2007?


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

This is my XTR M960 crankset modified for single speed use.










The weight is actually 538g now, with new pinch bolts,


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

...I cant work out how to set the date on my camera....

:lol:


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Well, I have just shaved a measly 10 g off my Saint M810 rear derailer. To achieve that, I merely replaced 6 bolts to aluminum ones: 2 roller bolts, cable pinch bolt, and 3 adjustment bolts. No drilling and sanding, no lighter rollers, thank you.

This way it's down to about SRAM X.9 weight, but still beefier and more compact.

PS
Does it count if I reduce cassette weight by removing sprockets? )
I just made a custom 6-speed one from Shimano LX HG-70 8-speed 11-28T cassette. The cogs are 11-12-14-16-18-21. Weight is 154 g without lockring. The rest of setup is Chris King Ti lockring 11T, Hope Pro 2 Trials hub.


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## krystian xtc (Jun 17, 2005)

my sid pop lock.
before:

























and now i´m saving 34grams:


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## krystian xtc (Jun 17, 2005)

and other small tunings:

Seatpost replace:









ritchey wcs (save 18g)









seatpost on off marga fullana edition 27.2 x 380mm. (save 108g)


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Nice! Where did you get the small diameter carbon tubing? And is the cradle piece made from an off-cut from the bottom of the post?


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## krystian xtc (Jun 17, 2005)

is the same type of tube for both parties. not for use. was a test. now I have to get the good parts and weighs a little more. I will put photos when seatpost are ready.


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## yellowbook (Aug 21, 2005)

Just because I care about others health...when working/grinding on carbon, always wear face mask and protect skin and if possible old clothes.

I know you think it's just some kind of plastic.....it's bad, very bad for lungs and skin......


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

krystian xtc, i like what you did with your WCS bars -18g great, my WCS seatpost/stem/bars look like they have 30g of lacquer & graphics on each of them so might well follow suit some rainy day (with dust mask & gloves + wet sandpaper!)

but not sure what you're doing with that seatpost, is 250g the "before" weight & 142g after? doesn't look safe at all to me

...anyone else with trick mods for show 'n" tell?


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## krystian xtc (Jun 17, 2005)

About mask and gloves yes, I learned, thanks anyway.

about the seatpost, only the origininal head weights 131grams. the rest weight is a plus of the new head carbon with titanium bolts.


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Anymore lightweight handiwork to show off?


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## yellowbook (Aug 21, 2005)

Klein CCD:









Backplate:









Marta Covers:


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## superspec (Sep 15, 2007)

where can i get those carbon derailler plates?


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

eBay:

http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/joechaimui-rothshek-bikeparts__W0QQ_armrsZ1


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## superspec (Sep 15, 2007)

mikesnowdon said:


> eBay:
> 
> http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/joechaimui-rothshek-bikeparts__W0QQ_armrsZ1


thank you, now i just need to figure out which ones i need:madman:


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## yellowbook (Aug 21, 2005)

Mine is homemade


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

superspec said:


> thank you, now i just need to figure out which ones i need:madman:


What mech are you thinking to use them on?


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## superspec (Sep 15, 2007)

mikesnowdon said:


> What mech are you thinking to use them on?


XTR960 i looked at the site and think i know wheich ones i need but the plates look different on the ends as far as the cutouts.


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Im quite sure the XTR ones are generic, should fit anything from M950 onwards.


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## superspec (Sep 15, 2007)

ok thanks. now how bout those Ti springs


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Again probably generic sizing. I read somewhere that you don't really save any weight over a steel spring though. 

Possible to save quite a lot with carbon plates and aftermarket jockey wheels and hardware though. I have an old M952 which I'm planning to tune. I had it apart and the outer plate fitting looks identical to the carbon eBay ones. I'll be slotting the linkage plates and changing all the hardware plus fitting carbon plates and KCNC jokey wheels. Could get it down to about 170g

I recently cut down my Thomson Elite post and it still weighs about 210g. WTF? I can lose anther 30mm though. So far saved about 40g, although I don't know how accurate my girlfriends kitchen scales are. I was thinking the KCNC yokes might work in place of the stock upper part of the clamp. Also the KCNC Ti bolts. The weight of the cut down post without the clamp is only 150g so a lot of weight to save there.


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

I trimmed the extra 30mm off my Thomson post. With the saddle height set to have my leg straight with heel on the pedal - Ive got 15mm more than the minimum post allowed in the frame according to the markings on the bottom of the post (does that make sense?  ) Also did a bit of tuning to the upper clamp part, I took out the middle section so the clamp still looks 'stock' from the outside. I found some replacement Ti bolts and barrels on eBay which apparently save 10g. I'd estimate my post to be around 185g with these bolts*. So far I've saved about 95g (was a 410mm post) with my tuning - 80g of it from cutting off the excess. 

Will add pics to the thread when I get the bolts and some proper scales 

*I decided the KCNC yokes would probably not work as the bolts on the Thomson pull at a slight angle. However, they would save me more weight so I might see if there's a way to make 'em work


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## Robin v Berkel (Aug 19, 2008)

my tune Sram red normal 145gr now 125+-gr with Extralite Ultra Pulleys 
old foto with normal 20gr+ pullys 
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/2925782/
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/2925784/

XTR shadow 164gr with Extralite Ultra Pulleys 2x alu KCNC bolt and tune Carbon Backplate

no foto i for got to make them :madman:

Sram XX with Extralite Ultra Pulleys wil see if i can get lichter need to see if i can find custom made Backplate

181gr>> 167gr
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/4221748/


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## ayjay69 (Mar 9, 2008)

Hi,

My Thomson Masterpiece 31,6 with Ti kit, Mack clamp  indestructible and ultra light with setback


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## Robin v Berkel (Aug 19, 2008)

nice but how long is he ??


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## ayjay69 (Mar 9, 2008)

This is uncut original version 350mm


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## elbardo (Jan 21, 2008)

So where is all the weight hiding in my thomson masterpiece 27.2x330 zero offset? It weighs in at 194g. That's the right weight from thomson - that mack kit and ti bolts can't take THAT much weight off, can it?


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

Those Mack clamp yokes look interesting. However, I don't see them as being very carbon rail friendly. The pressure point from the flat clamping surface would be extreme, and likely cause failure of the rail. I don't see much of a problem for metal rails though. I made a rather large hole in the center of the bottom cradle on my Masterpiece seatpost. It dropped another 6-7 grams for no cost. There should be no problem using the KCNC yokes, as the seat clamp bolts, washers and the sockets for the bolts on the Thomson post are designed to allow the head of the bolt to tilt with the seat angle. Make sure if you buy ebay Ti bolts that they are designed in the same way.


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## ayjay69 (Mar 9, 2008)

BlownCivic said:


> Those Mack clamp yokes look interesting. However, I don't see them as being very carbon rail friendly. The pressure point from the flat clamping surface would be extreme, and likely cause failure of the rail. I don't see much of a problem for metal rails though. I made a rather large hole in the center of the bottom cradle on my Masterpiece seatpost. It dropped another 6-7 grams for no cost. There should be no problem using the KCNC yokes, as the seat clamp bolts, washers and the sockets for the bolts on the Thomson post are designed to allow the head of the bolt to tilt with the seat angle. Make sure if you buy ebay Ti bolts that they are designed in the same way.


No that's is not true !!! The Mack clamp is really good for carbon rails ! Id does not have sharpe edges and my Speedneedles rails looks undamaged after 500km

The weight is real and I was surprised when I saw it on scale ! I sold the post (w/o ti bolts and Mack clamp) but I want to order 30,9 for Epic, and weight should be almost the same, +-2g.


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## ayjay69 (Mar 9, 2008)

Mack seat post upgrade on scale


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## Conguito (May 23, 2009)

ritchey wcs tuned (103 grm in original version)

62 tuned version (with ergal bolts and diameter reduce)


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

elbardo said:


> So where is all the weight hiding in my thomson masterpiece 27.2x330 zero offset? It weighs in at 194g. That's the right weight from thomson - that mack kit and ti bolts can't take THAT much weight off, can it?


Its the clamp dude. I weighed mine and its nearly 80 grams (the top part is the heaviest)! My cut down 'Elite' post - minus clamp - is 140g.

I thought about drilling the cradle but I'm using it on a steel frame - in uk conditions - so I dont want a big hole for water to get into my frame.

where do these Mack Clamp yokes come from?


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Here's my tuned Thompson upper clamp. Weight is about 20-25g now.



















EDIT: Loving those Ritchey bar ends :thumbsup:


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

I have just weighed the original Thomson Elite upper clamp, and it's 34 g.

Let's not forget that any tinkering with the Thomson clamp quite possibly defeats its "bend fuse" functionality. This may be so even if we merely replace stock bolts with titanium bolts.

These Mack thingies look damn tempting nevertheless. )


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## nikoli8 (Mar 23, 2008)

mikesnowdon said:


> I trimmed the extra 30mm off my Thomson post. With the saddle height set to have my leg straight with heel on the pedal - Ive got 15mm more than the minimum post allowed in the frame according to the markings on the bottom of the post (does that make sense?  ) Also did a bit of tuning to the upper clamp part, I took out the middle section so the clamp still looks 'stock' from the outside. I found some replacement Ti bolts and barrels on eBay which apparently save 10g. I'd estimate my post to be around 185g with these bolts*. So far I've saved about 95g (was a 410mm post) with my tuning - 80g of it from cutting off the excess.
> 
> Will add pics to the thread when I get the bolts and some proper scales
> 
> *I decided the KCNC yokes would probably not work as the bolts on the Thomson pull at a slight angle. However, they would save me more weight so I might see if there's a way to make 'em work


I have raced a season with KCNC Yokes.. on my masterpiece no issues.. and it gave me 149g post


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## nikoli8 (Mar 23, 2008)

mikesnowdon said:


> I trimmed the extra 30mm off my Thomson post. With the saddle height set to have my leg straight with heel on the pedal - Ive got 15mm more than the minimum post allowed in the frame according to the markings on the bottom of the post (does that make sense?  ) Also did a bit of tuning to the upper clamp part, I took out the middle section so the clamp still looks 'stock' from the outside. I found some replacement Ti bolts and barrels on eBay which apparently save 10g. I'd estimate my post to be around 185g with these bolts*. So far I've saved about 95g (was a 410mm post) with my tuning - 80g of it from cutting off the excess.
> 
> Will add pics to the thread when I get the bolts and some proper scales
> 
> *I decided the KCNC yokes would probably not work as the bolts on the Thomson pull at a slight angle. However, they would save me more weight so I might see if there's a way to make 'em work


Throw up pics later..

Here it is...










Un Trimmed..


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

nikoli8 said:


> Throw up pics later..
> 
> Here it is...
> 
> ...


Hey thats my idea!  

Any chance of a close up pic showing the post with a saddle attached? What bolts did you use?


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## nikoli8 (Mar 23, 2008)

As soon as I get my loaned out camera back... this was a thread here a while back with lots of pics... search kcnc parts,,, think thats it...

post is now cut... but haven't had time to weigh...


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

I found it:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=356591


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## AlexJK (May 2, 2009)

holy crap... and i thought i was a bit weight weenie


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## bikerboyj17 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Sette APX tuning?*

*Sorry if this is off topic*---

​Because my bike (Schwinn Homegrown Factory) has an odd 26.8mm seatpost size I am limited with what I can run. My current seatpost is the stock Titec which im guessing is around 275 grams. The Sette APX Carbon has a claimed weight of 230 grams and comes in the size I need. Could I tune this seatpost with the KCNC clamps? Has anybody done this already?

​Thanks


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Just get a post thats smaller than 26.8 then use a shim. Or buy a Thomson masterpeice - they come in your size.


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## amillmtb (Jun 24, 2005)

mikesnowdon said:


> Just get a post thats smaller than 26.8 then use a shim. Or buy a Thomson masterpeice - they come in your size.


That is even harder than finding a 26.8.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

mikesnowdon said:


> Just get a post thats smaller than 26.8 then use a shim. Or buy a Thomson masterpeice - they come in your size.


They do not, only regular Elite.


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## Hand/of/Midas (Sep 19, 2007)

Curmy said:


> They do not, only regular Elite.


What He said. i was forced to get an Elite for my 26.8 bike, maybe ill tune it.


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## ayjay69 (Mar 9, 2008)

mikesnowdon said:


> Its the clamp dude. I weighed mine and its nearly 80 grams (the top part is the heaviest)! My cut down 'Elite' post - minus clamp - is 140g.
> 
> I thought about drilling the cradle but I'm using it on a steel frame - in uk conditions - so I dont want a big hole for water to get into my frame.
> 
> where do these Mack Clamp yokes come from?


Mack Clapm yokes come from Poland


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## nikoli8 (Mar 23, 2008)

This is a 26.8 Masterpiece... How?
http://cgi.ebay.com/THOMSON-Masterp...Cycling_Parts_Accessories?hash=item563654e4fd

This is from the Thomson Site
Available in Silver & Black.
*Black Only.

Model Number Seatpost Description Weight Retail Price

SP-M102 27.2 diameter by 240mm long 158 grams $ 149.95 
SP-M105 27.2 diameter by 330mm long 193 grams $ 149.95 
SP-M106 30.9 diameter by 350mm long 192 grams $ 149.95 
SP-M107 31.6 diameter by 350mm long 193 grams $ 149.95

Setback Seatposts

SP-M102SB 27.2 diameter by 240mm long 158 grams $ 149.95 
SP-M105SB 27.2 diameter by 330mm long 193 grams $ 149.95 
SP-M106SB 30.9 diameter by 350mm long 192 grams $ 149.95 
SP-M107SB 31.6 diameter by 350mm long 193 grams $ 149.95

Here is the model numb they are selling... it's not listed on the Thomson site..Model: SP-M101SB


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

nikoli8 said:


> This is a 26.8 Masterpiece... How?
> http://cgi.ebay.com/THOMSON-Masterp...Cycling_Parts_Accessories?hash=item563654e4fd


No idea. I would have thought that some blinged out BMX folks convinced them to make one - but then it is a setback.

Looks like they indeed added this size. Not on their site yet..


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## nikoli8 (Mar 23, 2008)

Crumy you might have hit it on the nail... it is only 240mm Long..
Just actually found some on the Korean sites at the same length... Maybe they are for all the asians who ride 16 inch frames...


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

nikoli8 said:


> This is a 26.8 Masterpiece... How?
> http://cgi.ebay.com/THOMSON-Masterp...Cycling_Parts_Accessories?hash=item563654e4fd
> 
> This is from the Thomson Site
> ...


Maybe OEM?


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

I didnt realise the Masterpeice wasnt available in that size. 

When I say to use a shim you need to have a little imagination.....

For example, USE make a very wide selection of shims for their 25.4mm posts. OK, 25.4 isnt 26.8 but..... 

If the overall thickness of the shim is worked out so that when added to the diameter of the post you want to use- you end up with the right diameter to fit your frame. Get it? These shims are quite thin and can be bent around a bigger post. 

I have a Kona which takes a 27.2 post. I use a 26.8 Thomson Elite. I did this with a USE 25.4 to 25.8 shim. Get the idea?


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Could it be that Thomson dropped this size post long ago, and the one on ebay now is part of old stock? In which case it's probably a holy artifact.

PS.
No, it clearly says "New 2009". So this is what made Thomson busy this year, not the bolt-up clamp?
This size is not listed in the PDF file over there, either.


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## nikoli8 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Interesting...*

I saw one in person at www.m7bikes.co.kr tonight....


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Thomson site says that they mostly do contract jobs for big businesses. Bike parts are their secondary occupation, taking advantage of serious US located production capacities.

How come their new product shows up first on ebay, and then in the hemisphere opposite to where their manufacturing facilities supposedly are?

It's almost as if either they no longer make bike parts in US (why would they? Unless they moved the entire operation to Far East), or someone has been faking up Thomson stuff in Asia recently?


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## xc71 (Dec 24, 2008)

mikesnowdon said:


> Maybe OEM?


This seatpost is probably for youth MTB.This post will fit Scott Spark & Scale 20" & 24"bikes.I think I'll grab one for my sons Spark RC JR 24.


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## el-cid (May 21, 2004)

bikerboyj17 said:


> *Sorry if this is off topic*---
> 
> ​Because my bike (Schwinn Homegrown Factory) has an odd 26.8mm seatpost size I am limited with what I can run. My current seatpost is the stock Titec which im guessing is around 275 grams. The Sette APX Carbon has a claimed weight of 230 grams and comes in the size I need. Could I tune this seatpost with the KCNC clamps? Has anybody done this already?
> 
> ​Thanks


...or buy my unemployed LP Composites yellow/black carbon post...


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Any more tuned components to show off? (per the topic)


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## krystian xtc (Jun 17, 2005)

look here http://actividadesclubyrutas.spaces...ogPart=blogview&_c=BlogPart&partqs=cat=Tuning


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

krystian xtc said:


> look here https://actividadesclubyrutas.space...ogPart=blogview&_c=BlogPart&partqs=cat=Tuning


Wow!!!

I really like your tuned XT shifters. I have these shifters and I'll take inspiration from what you did with yours. Can I post a pic of them from your site?


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## krystian xtc (Jun 17, 2005)

some tunings are not mine. On the web I collect interesting tunings, nearly half are mine, some not
yes, you can


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

KCNC Brakelevers: 38g

Already in standard trim these are the lightest at 46g but these carbon-blades dropped some significant weight...there is some crazy DIY tuning guys in germany doing such stuff.


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## Ricisan (Aug 30, 2006)

*How to get Started?*

As a big fan of all kinds of Moto/Bike Porn, I love the look of parts that have been tuned/massaged. Usually riders/drivers get all the glory. I think that this is how the techs and mechs get to show off their artistic abilities. A famous motorcycle builder was asked 
"How do you make these incredible pieces/parts" his reply was "I already did all the screw ups" lol I love it when the parts look stock, but on closer inspection, the trickery becomes visible.
I have access to a dremel, but I'm not sure how many parts I can afford to trash during my learning curve. Any suggestions on how to gently get started? 
I frequently learn how far to go by going too far. This could be expensive,it ususally is ?

R


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Need some mice for vivisection? ) Just use any old low-level parts from your parts bin. Like v-brakes, derailers with play in them, trigger shifters, brake levers..

Shimano Alivio trigger/brake lever combo is one nice fat mouse.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Ricisan said:


> Any suggestions on how to gently get started?


Take cheap, heavy parts, and make them lighter. That way you get used to it, and if you screw up, you don't really lose much.


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## ShopMechanic (May 9, 2009)

I have done quite a few tuned parts. I will see if I can post all of them. No weights unfortunately.


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## ShopMechanic (May 9, 2009)

The BB7 is brushed and smoothed. The internal bearing races are polished and the power is massive now.

The saint brakes changes are all cosmetic basically. The rotors are a little lighter though.

The bash ring is an e13 guide ring minus the teeth and some careful grinding. It feels like it weighs nothing.


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## ShopMechanic (May 9, 2009)

Here is a better shot of the rotor. Every third "window" is cut out and the spokes are bladed. They catch the light and look neat. Not sharp though. They just look like they are.:nono:


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

ShopMechanic said:


> The internal bearing races are polished and the power is massive now.


Now this is especially interesting..


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## ShopMechanic (May 9, 2009)

There is so little friction with the races polished that when using compressionless housing it feels like regular housing!


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

But what tools did you use to polish the races?


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## ShopMechanic (May 9, 2009)

I just used the dremel bullet felt tip with (I think) the dremel brand red polishing compound.


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## scooter916 (Jan 2, 2006)

ShopMechanic said:


> I just used the dremel bullet felt tip with (I think) the dremel brand red polishing compound.


I got some ceramic ball bearings of of ebay for my BB7 calipers, I may have to take them apart again to polish the races


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## crazy8 (Apr 21, 2009)

*Tuned Aerozizne with Ti Spindle*

This is a set of Token cranks made by Aerozine. This set came with the titanium spindle. They have been custom tuned and set up for SS using a Homebrew 32T ring. Both arems and ring have been coated using ceramic materials. The weight is 494g.


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## ginsu2k (Jul 28, 2006)

*BB7 tuning*



scooter916 said:


> I got some ceramic ball bearings of of ebay for my BB7 calipers, I may have to take them apart again to polish the races


what size are the bearings? it would be nice not to have to take it apart to find out. thanx


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## scooter916 (Jan 2, 2006)

ginsu2k said:


> what size are the bearings? it would be nice not to have to take it apart to find out. thanx


they are 5/32nd


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## ShopMechanic (May 9, 2009)

Yes, 5/32nds is correct.


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## orangeskill (Nov 2, 2009)

where did you buy the funny driver to disassemble the caliper body? is this how you get to the bearings/races?


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Tuning BB7 calipers is a fruitful topic, it seems. For starters, it's very simple to use 2 ti bolts (M5x15, M5x25) to hold caliper halves together, and an M6x15 alu bolt for cable pinching.

*scribes*
5/32" ceramic balls from ebay, okaaay..
+1 thing to do when I get a dremel...

*crazy8*, that's one fine crankset for sure. How would you rank its stiffness against anything Shimano, Race Face, Truvativ?

In the world of heavier parts, what are the ways to shave some weight off a Rock Shox Pike (especially the coil ones)?

For instance, use Magura 60 less thru axle.
Try and find a titanium spring maybe?
What about the new lowers that they used for 2010 Recons - the ones with power bulges and PM caliper mount - are these lighter than Pike's?


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## ShopMechanic (May 9, 2009)

@ Orangeskill--It looks like Speedgoat has the tool but their website is down right now so I can't confirm. It is called the MDT-1 tool. It is possible that with a custom modified pin spanner you might be able to make a tool that you could get by with if you can't find the avid tool. You can also get the tool from your IBD. https://www.bti-usa.com/public/category/TO/TODB/AV Just give them the part number from bti and hopefully they can get it together enough to order it for you in a timely manor if they don't forget about it entirely.


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## ShopMechanic (May 9, 2009)

@ Random Psycho--To lighten up a pike I would remove the u-turn assembly. I am assuming you have a uturn. Remove the whole assembly and replace it with a boxxer spring base plate, top cap, and boxxer spring that is cut down to the length you need. Now you will have a lighter set up that can be preloaded and adjusted. I did that to my boxxer ride and it worked great. Or you could try to convert it to air. I have seen a lot of guys do that with their boxxers. You wouldn't have the cool dual air with this mod but you would make the fork a lot lighter. You should be able to just get the air cap and the base plate for the air conversion. I am not sure on that but if you research boxxer air conversions I am sure you can get to the bottom of it.


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

*Yes, mine is u-turn.*



ShopMechanic said:


> To lighten up a pike I would remove the u-turn assembly. I am assuming you have a uturn. Remove the whole assembly and replace it with a boxxer spring base plate, top cap, and boxxer spring that is cut down to the length you need. Now you will have a lighter set up that can be preloaded and adjusted. I did that to my boxxer ride and it worked great.


This coil route looks appealing to me.
How much weight, approximately, is possible to drop this way?


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## ShopMechanic (May 9, 2009)

I don't know for sure but I would check the weight difference in a boxxer ride vs a boxxer team. That should get you in the ballpark since the only difference is the u-turn and 1 inch of travel. I am guessing that it would save you at least 1/4 pound. The best reason though to do it though is for greater tunability and performance. You will get more usable travel without the uturn.


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Thanks!
Perhaps it's going to be a second life for that Pike, a lightweight urban fork. )


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## ShopMechanic (May 9, 2009)

So here is my last tuned part I think. It is a custom cassette. It is a Shimano 760 xt 11-34 cassette that I machined away the back of the alloy carrier 5.5mm on a mill. This allowed me to get 7 gears on a hope ss hub that will normally only take 6. But I wanted 8. So I then welded the 13 to the 15 and now I have 8 speeds (13-34) with a dishless wheel that it super stiff and strong. I also put the axle on the lathe and now it will accept a dt swiss rws skewer that hope doesn't make an axle for on the ss hub. They do one for the 9spd but not the ss for some lame reason. Another small mod is I take off the inner lip of the seals on the inboard side of the bearing to cut down on seal friction. Water isn't getting in from that side and so the seal only needs to hold in the grease so why have the friction? It feels quite a bit smoother. You can do this on any cartridge setup hub or bb. Ceramic bearings don't help much with a bunch of seal drag.


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## ShopMechanic (May 9, 2009)

You can also see in that picture my special first gen elixir hose setup. It is a juicy line with a banjo end. It is held together with a shimano banjo bolt and some larger than shimano o-rings to seal it up. It has worked great for 6 month with no leaks. Just make sure you get the right size o-rings. Right after I did this Avid came out with version two that has the rotatable banjo.:madman:


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

ShopMechanic, all brilliant mods!

The XT cassette vs Hope Pro 2 Trials hub trick, taken one step further.
The 10 mm thru-axle compatibility mod.

And although I have noticed the unusual banjo fitting, the Shimano bolt and non-standard o-rings hack add up to solve an ugly problem cleanly.


What kind of welding process does it take to connect the small sprocket? Now I have no excuse for not bringing an XT cassette to one of our local welders for similar operation. )


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## ShopMechanic (May 9, 2009)

Make sure you get the 760 cassette. The 770 won't work. The way the 34t cog attaches is different and won't clear your spokes. I think the 960 cassette will work as well but I don't have enough money to try it. Depending on the deraileur you are using you might have to grind the cage slightly to clear the spokes in the low gear. You will also need to space out your deraileur from the hanger slightly to help it to access the small cog. To weld the cogs together you will need a really good welder that is capable of VERY small beads of weld on each spline. Any excess material will need to be ground off. My guy asked for a freehub body to keep everything aligned. I think he might have fusion tack welded it on the hub before removing it and welding the inside with filler rod. I can get you the exact dimensions of the cassette carrier you will need if you want to go through with it.


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Oh, thanks again.

I'll have to discuss it with the welder, and see if she is positive (the best welder I know personally is a lady - she rides a Norco Fluid 2004 all year round, by the way).

Another question if I may.
Do you find the RWS conversion better than just using 2 M10x40 titanium bolts with Hope Pro 2 Trials hub?

What crankset are you running on that bike? Is it somehow modified to move chainline outwards, so that it still sits in the middle of the freehub?


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## ShopMechanic (May 9, 2009)

I modded the crank too. It is a xt 770 with a narrowed spindle. It is setup 2mm inboard of normal so standard setup should work great.

I went RWS because then I don't have to carry a heavy tool to change flats.


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## IPA Rider (Aug 24, 2008)

*Best bit for dremmeling Al parts???*

so what is the best kind of bit for dremmeling on al parts (like BB7 calipers, old XT cranks)???


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## ShopMechanic (May 9, 2009)

It depends on what you want to do but generally the sanding barrels tend to be the most common bit I use. I also use the fuzzy scotchbrite type wheels to strip paint and smooth things like the bb7 caliper exterior. I use the brown cutoff wheels for precision stuff. For making rough cuts on plate like a chainring I like to use a fluted bit that is made for cutting sideways. I get the rotozip brand bits for that because they are much cheaper than the dremel ones and they work the same for me. Many times however a file will be the better way to go. I lean on the dremel pretty hard because I am good at it but the file tends to be more precise and it is a lot cheaper. Dremel bits are so expensive. To do two bb7 calipers and rotors I think I spent about $50 in bits!


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## IPA Rider (Aug 24, 2008)

*bits*

thanks...

I also want to lighten up some old xt cranks, but am not sure about freehanding a big striaght line job like hollowing out the back of the arms...I'm thinking that finding a friend with a machine shop will be the ticket...


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## ShopMechanic (May 9, 2009)

I hope they are very old xt cranks because for the last 10 years xt cranks have been hollow forged. So you will be significantly limiting the stiffness of the arm if you cut a slot into the back of the arm.


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## IPA Rider (Aug 24, 2008)

*hollow-tech*

thought about that, but I think I'm OK

they're 1990-1 model (off the first gen. epic stumpjumper with carbon tubes and chromoly lugs, that I believe Ned O. used to regularly punish people with at that time)


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## heinerk. (Feb 13, 2009)

with alloy screws...


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## Ninko (Jul 19, 2006)

IPA Rider said:


> they're 1990-1 model (off the first gen. epic stumpjumper with carbon tubes and chromoly lugs, that I believe Ned O. used to regularly punish people with at that time)


Don't go that way dude... Tuning stuff is nothing wrong with... But don't put the liposuction on old lady's.. They don't get better anyway!

Pics of the bike?


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## lamp no 3 (Jun 4, 2008)

how the hell do you make your parts that way? my gt avalanche is on a strict diet and I am looking for any place to shave weight cheap and I was wondering, how do you modify parts. Is it possible with a dremel and some bits and drillbits? Oh and I also have some files and sandpaper if that helps.


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