# torque wrench recomendation



## AZmuchacho (Nov 14, 2013)

Looking for a torque wrench recommendation? 

I don't mind spending a few bucks for quality. Starting to wrench my own stuff and need to pick one up.


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## silentG (May 18, 2009)

I'm pretty fond of Tekron torque wrenches...good blend of quality and durability.

You can find them at Amazon, Tekron's web site, and stores like CAL-Ranch if you have one nearby.

For a bike 1/4" and 3/8" drive will cover just about everything.


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## Surfacecreations (Sep 8, 2011)

Another vote for the Tekton. I did some pretty heavy research and came up with this as being the best bang for the buck:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M12284X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Money doesn't matter and you want a fancy electronic one: https://www.backcountry.com/unior-e...bBXKxbbF7UyS24WJiI1Td0D4Mt2XwvzoaAusDEALw_wcB


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## render ranger (Aug 22, 2019)

AZmuchacho said:


> Looking for a torque wrench recommendation?
> 
> *I don't mind spending a few bucks for quality*. Starting to wrench my own stuff and need to pick one up.


For the lower end of the torque range, the T-Ratchet + Ti-Torque










For stuff above 10nm, the Park TW-6.2


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## eri (Sep 4, 2012)

There is this cool invention called the 'beam torque wrench'. Invented long ago. It works by fundamental property of the metal, which is its resistance to bending.

Beam type are pretty much infallible, indestructible, they last forever and they're cheap.

They do take a care to use but it is pretty simple.

I bought a craftsmen beam style 30 years ago for working on cars and it is still good as new.

For bicycle stuff I bought the tiny Neiko 03727 from amazon some years ago and it is also wonderful. I think it was $12. Oh, I just checked now its 24. Hmm... I think today I'd opt for a cheaper one.

You need to wind down click-type wrenches before you store them, otherwise the spring will degrade. Click and digital torque wrenches need periodic caliberation… with a beam style torque wrench!

Much better I think to spend money on good sockets for the torque wrench.


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## silentG (May 18, 2009)

My only beef with beam style wrenches is that you have to look at the gauge on the wrench to work out if you are the right torque and it is fairly easy to be looking at the wrong value on the gauge thinking you need 10 ft/lb and you are actually looking at Newton Meters.

For me it is easier to not have to divide my attention so setting the torque on the wrench, verifying the right unit of torque, and then doing my thing with the wrench works pretty well.

Here is a handy chart that I have been using - Torque Conversion Table

I know there are apps that do this but I like having something paper around near my work area that I can refer to versus unlocking phone/tablet and running app over and over again.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Without question or hesitation, Wera. These are tools that you'll hand down to your grandkids sometime, and they're very accurate. Stuff like Tektron is hit-or-miss - I've damaged bolts/parts due to a severely miscalibrated Tektron torque wrench.

Wera tools aren't cheap - in fact, they're rather expensive - but worth every penny. Their hex wrenches are also a "must have" in any bike tool collection.


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## Forest Rider (Oct 29, 2018)

Look at various wrenches, purchase the one you can afford with the best tolerances.

You won't have good results if the torque wrench is only good for 8% +/- accuracy.
Many manufactures post the tolerance on their website. Not all do. You can search some reviews and maybe come across tolerance listings. If you can't find a tolerance, maybe not go with that particular wrench.


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## eri (Sep 4, 2012)

silentG said:


> My only beef with beam style wrenches is that you have to look at the gauge on the wrench to work out if you are the right torque and it is fairly easy to be looking at the wrong value on the gauge thinking you need 10 ft/lb and you are actually looking at Newton Meters.


I had the same problem with reading the wrong row on the little neiko. I ended up covering the inch/pound readings with white athletic tape.

At least for bicycle I have never once had a screw where I couldn't easily use the beam torque wrench. Truck is a different story.

I've seen folks wreck stuff with cheap torque wrenches. Is so evil. Way worse than not using one.

There are good click style torque wrenches that I would love to own but given the prices for good ones I'm happy with the beam style.

I think even if I had a click style I'd want to have a beam style around to verify it before I used it on something.

Edit: Thread about how great beam style wrenches are. I think they're really elegant since they rely on so little to be so accurate. Its calculus and young's modulus and you're done.

https://forums.mtbr.com/tooltime/how-accurate-park-tools-beam-torque-wrenches-531030.html

Oh, heres a web post where someone really geeks out and explains it:

https://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/forum/general/27995-homemade-torque-wrenches


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## Surfacecreations (Sep 8, 2011)

At 5 in/lbs, if a torque wrench is off by up to 10% higher, that would be giving the bolt/screw 5.5 in/lbs. At reading 40 in/lbs and getting the same 10% off with 44 in/lbs are we really going to damage anything with that kind of inaccuracy here? Are carbon pieces that finicky? 

People sometimes drive around with their automobile lugs hand tightened before it gets caught all the time and on the other end of the spectrum get them jammed on at 200 ft/lbs instead of 90 ft/lbs by some lughead grease monkey. 

I think anything is better than just hand tightening and whether it's electronic, beam or click, any tool that has the word "torque" in it's description is probably close enough for what we are using it for.


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## silentG (May 18, 2009)

+1 for Wera hex keys and Torx keys...I have a set of Bondhus T-handles but I use the Wera sets constantly


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## JGR75 (Jun 11, 2019)

For a smaller one, I have the one from Pro Bike Tool and it seems very nice so far.


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## SqueakyWheel73 (Sep 21, 2018)

I invested in a CDI torque wrench this past year and have been very happy with it. CDI makes SnapOn torque wrenches, and are generally considered to be good quality tools. The only complaint I have with mine is if you are near the lower end of the torque range, the click it makes when the pre-set torque is reached is a little on the subtle side. Now that I am aware of it, I know to pay attention, but I missed it the first time I used the tool.

If you are interested, it is worth spending some time on CDI's website - they offer a lot of different torque wrenches with different ranges and different intervals/markings.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

I've never invested in any torque wrenches. I've bought a number of them, 6, but they were expensed at the time of purchase rather than carried as assets with any expectation of appreciation.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Lone Rager said:


> I've never invested in any torque wrenches. I've bought a number of them, 6, but they were expensed at the time of purchase rather than carried as assets with any expectation of appreciation.


Honestly, this is the most reasonable response.

If you are buying tools with the expectation of any kind of appreciation, you are going to be sorely disappointed no matter what you buy. If you have the means to buy an expensive tool, or can otherwise justify it based on the equipment you work on, great. If not, buy a beam, and use the money on other, more pressing things.


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## mnigro (Jul 31, 2007)

I just picked up the Park tw5.2. For $110 I Like it. Quality seems good.

https://www.parktool.com/product/ratcheting-click-type-torque-wrench-tw-5-2#tabbed-section

Shimano has a very very similar wrench on Jensonusa that's a little cheaper around $80.


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## be1 (Sep 4, 2013)

i have a craftsman torque wrench and a beam torque wrench. i use the beamer most often. i've never had a problem.

edit: i usually mark the desired torque by putting a piece of blue painter's tape on the correct number before i torque the bolts. makes it easier.


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## chadbrochills (Aug 9, 2018)

JGR75 said:


> For a smaller one, I have the one from Pro Bike Tool and it seems very nice so far.


Same here. Works great. Comes with a certification of calibration as well. Most other, cheaper wrenches do not, from what I've seen.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

chadbrochills said:


> Same here. Works great. Comes with a certification of calibration as well. Most other, cheaper wrenches do not, from what I've seen.


Very true...and calibration changes over time, sometimes dramatically, particularly with cheaper tools. What works great "out of the box" could be a bolt snapper 12 months later. Proper usage and storage matters also.


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## SqueakyWheel73 (Sep 21, 2018)

Lone Rager said:


> I've never invested in any torque wrenches. I've bought a number of them, 6, but they were expensed at the time of purchase rather than carried as assets with any expectation of appreciation.


There's a comedian in every crowd 

I guess when I am thinking tools, investment just means that I hope to purchase it once and never have to do so again. I have no notion that any of my tools will actually gain in value...


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## Zomby Woof (MCM700) (May 23, 2004)

Surfacecreations said:


> Another vote for the Tekton. I did some pretty heavy research and came up with this as being the best bang for the buck:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M12284X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Money doesn't matter and you want a fancy electronic one: https://www.backcountry.com/unior-e...bBXKxbbF7UyS24WJiI1Td0D4Mt2XwvzoaAusDEALw_wcB


That's the one I have too (the first one).


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## jimPacNW (Feb 26, 2013)

I'm happy with the fixed torque Presta Cycle torque keys, I have a 3 Nm and a 4 Nm, I have found that with carbon assembly paste, 3 Nm is plenty for flat bars and 4 is fine for road bars, - for me anyway.


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

CDI torque keys are 25 bucks each. You really only need one. 

I have a ritchey too, but its poorly calibrated. It says 5nm, but its higher by some amount. CDI is one of the best torque instruments available (at any price).


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

My answer would depend on the range you're looking for to do what you wanna do. If you're only thinking about stem, seat post collar, brake levers, etc, I like the Topeak Nano Torqbox X (2-6nm). It can travel easily for rebuilding a bike in a hotel room.










For bigger jobs like crank bolts or the sliders on my single speed, I break out the D Torq Wrench DX (4-80nm).

I'll admit that I'm now I Topeak Ambassador, but I bought my Topeak digital wrench a long time ago (2011). Basically, after I stripped an $80 Niner EBB by NOT using a torque wrench to get 21nm (if I remember correctly) and broke an aluminum part in my Eriksen ti seat post using a POS Harbor Freight cheapo.

I keep both of them way handy on the work bench. As you said, I don't mind spending a few bucks to get quality tools since I do 99% of all my own work on my bikes. I've destroyed plenty of decent parts using no torque wrench and the POS from Harbor Freight that didn't even last a year, so I feel like it's money well spent.


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

I can absolutely assure you that bike companies make zero torque wrenches. They're all contracted out, usually to cheapo chinese factories. I think park takes it the furthest by having them colored and branded for them, but they're shockingly similar to the green asian torque wrenches!

Not that that implies they're bad, some are pretty damn good.. but you pay a big premium for a sub par tool. 

Just go CDI. Sometimes they're cheaper, and they're the ones with the tool factory making professional and calibrated tools.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

SqueakyWheel73 said:


> There's a comedian in every crowd
> 
> I guess when I am thinking tools, investment just means that I hope to purchase it once and never have to do so again. I have no notion that any of my tools will actually gain in value...


That and broken/stripped parts plus time. Cost savings vs a mechanic, etc.

IMHO, and especially for low torque values, everyone would be well served by developing a "feel" for torque along with a quality tool. You will be no better off using a cheap torque wrench or setting it up improperly if you can't sense tight vs stripped.

Also, imo, a beam style wrench begins to loose it's utility if they're used for other projects. An oil pan or tranny pan etc., becomes very monotonous with a beam style wrench.

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


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## Flushing Shadow (Apr 11, 2019)

RickBullottaPA said:


> Without question or hesitation, Wera. These are tools that you'll hand down to your grandkids sometime, and they're very accurate. Stuff like Tektron is hit-or-miss - I've damaged bolts/parts due to a severely miscalibrated Tektron torque wrench.
> 
> Wera tools aren't cheap - in fact, they're rather expensive - but worth every penny. Their hex wrenches are also a "must have" in any bike tool collection.


Plus 1, Wera is my favourite brand for ratchets, screwdrivers and torque wrenches. For hex keys i will stick to the rainbow set from PB Swiss tools. I have a lot of stuff and am setting up to start a bike shop with my wife, so whe fiddle a lot with bikes.


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## jet9rdopilot (Nov 10, 2012)

As a professional airline mechanic with 35 plus years, I would recommend staying away from beam type torque wrenches. They can not be calibrated nor are they accurate. Our torque wrenches are calibrated every year and we must write down the s/n number the company uses and cal due date. Of course the company I work for does it in house, but you can pay extra for it being calibrated or have a outside vendor calibrate it. Instrument or scale shops can calibrate them for you.

A electronic torque wrench probably would be more economic since you can program it for nm, inch lbs, ft lbs. It cost allot but it beats purchasing 3 torque wrenches.

I would also stay away from non ratcheting head wrenches.

Also, I would stay on the lower side of torque limits. We use a standard torque chart that is listed in Boeing/Airbus amm's if the torque is stated. You need the thread/bolt size. Probably can Google standard torque.


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## eri (Sep 4, 2012)

jet9rdopilot said:


> As a professional airline mechanic with 35 plus years, I would recommend staying away from beam type torque wrenches. They can not be calibrated nor are they accurate. Our torque wrenches are calibrated every year and we must write down the s/n number the company uses and cal due date. Of course the company I work for does it in house, but you can pay extra for it being calibrated or have a outside vendor calibrate it. Instrument or scale shops can calibrate them for you.
> 
> A electronic torque wrench probably would be more economic since you can program it for nm, inch lbs, ft lbs. It cost allot but it beats purchasing 3 torque wrenches.
> 
> ...


Hats off to your 35 years of airplane experience. Airplanes are the source of all modern fastener knowledge.

Please can you correct my misconceptions below ? I would honestly like to learn from you.

My understanding the disadvantage of beam wrenches is that they are susceptible to poor technique, for example not keeping the handle balanced on the pivot, and also can be easily over tightened. I can see the skill dependent use being a liability especially when working on something critical like an airplane.

I've literally never heard anyone with any expertise cast shade on the accuracy of a beam wrench. My friend is head of the local university mechanical engineering department and agrees. In what way do you feel they inaccurate? As far as I can tell the only calibration they need is to ensure the scale is centered, after that they should never need calibration unless abused in a way that renders them obviously broken. The scales tend to be too course to read as accurately as a digital scale but for most things you're fine if within 5-10%.

Split beam wrenches are fundamentally beam style, as are dial style, just in both cases there is more to go wrong or get crafted with wear and dirt. Are you saying those types are all bad too?

Thanks!


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## jet9rdopilot (Nov 10, 2012)

I will not address proper shop practices on how to use a torque wrench, plus sheer, tension, lubed un-lubed fasteners. 
In my work environment a beam wrench would be worthless because of the tight spaced, angles, very high ft lb torque, etc. Even dial wrenches are useless. I only use dial on flight control wheel force checks. With beam you cannot do 52.3 in lbs and you must look directly onto the needle. Sort of impracticable. Like I mentioned, Snap-on electric torque wrench both vibrates and tones. Can be Nm, in lb, ft lb.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

I once used a box end wrench extended with an aluminum bar and a spring fish scale to torque the prop mounting nuts on my IO470. There was no space to get in there with anything else I had.


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## jet9rdopilot (Nov 10, 2012)

Did you try a crowfoot or torque adapter. We sometimes go to Harbor Freight, buy cheap tools and grind them down to fit what we need. Just a reminder that when use such adapters they must be torqued at 90 degrees to the wrench handle.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

We're getting a bit OT here but I might have been able to use a crow foot, but not at 90 deg. Of course you can use one at other than 90 degrees if the appropriate correction factor is applied. That said, given the application, I prefer a box end to and open end wrench. Of course a socket would be good but there is no way to fit one. The solution I rigged up worked fine.

Here's a pic off the web. With the prop studs sticking through behind the flange, there is barely enough room to get the box end between the end of the stud and the face of the crankcase.


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## eri (Sep 4, 2012)

jet9rdopilot said:


> I will not address proper shop practices on how to use a torque wrench, plus sheer, tension, lubed un-lubed fasteners.
> In my work environment a beam wrench would be worthless because of the tight spaced, angles, very high ft lb torque, etc. Even dial wrenches are useless. I only use dial on flight control wheel force checks. With beam you cannot do 52.3 in lbs and you must look directly onto the needle. Sort of impracticable. Like I mentioned, Snap-on electric torque wrench both vibrates and tones. Can be Nm, in lb, ft lb.


Yeah, you do understand that your dial wrench is a beam wrench with a fancy indicator?

Its one thing to say beam wrenches are inconvenient and impossible in some situations, quite another to claim they are not accurate and cannot be calibrated.

A long time commercial marine mechanic I know says beam style is the only way to go for verifying rolling torque. He also volunteered that he eyeballs his calibrated $2500 digital wrench with a beam wrench before using it on anything really critical (he works on big stuff.)

Here's a current beam style from Sturtevant Richmont, they still make them, they're a fan:

https://srtorque.com/error-proofing-tools/flat-and-tapered-beam-torque-wrenches/

I think value for the dollar can't be beat, especially for a home bike mechanic.


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## ForumsAreDead (Dec 30, 2019)

I'm a fan of beam style. The other styles never seemed worth the extra cost. I have three beam style torque wrenches for different ranges.

There is a specific technique to using them though, so read how to do it. I've never had a problem using a a beam style on my bicycle or my car.



jet9rdopilot said:


> I will not address proper shop practices on how to use a torque wrench, plus sheer, tension, lubed un-lubed fasteners.
> In my work environment a beam wrench would be worthless because of the tight spaced, angles, very high ft lb torque, etc. Even dial wrenches are useless. I only use dial on flight control wheel force checks. With beam you cannot do 52.3 in lbs and you must look directly onto the needle. Sort of impracticable. Like I mentioned, Snap-on electric torque wrench both vibrates and tones. Can be Nm, in lb, ft lb.


We're working on bicycles, not airplanes. I've never found a tight space on a bicycle compared to working on my car.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Click-type or beam...just a preference sort of thing. I prefer click-type


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## AZmuchacho (Nov 14, 2013)

does a 2.5 - 25Nm range cover most/all MTB uses?


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Someone should organize one of these torque wrench threads and make it a sticky. You know like any other useful forum does.

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


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## eri (Sep 4, 2012)

Maybe just link to this:

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts


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## SuperUltraKel (Sep 18, 2018)

I've used several different brands in the shop and at home. From CDI to Park to Pedros. Of the preset torque keys, I like the Pedros the best. They have a good feel in the hand, give a solid click and have spots for 3 different bits so you aren't hunting around for other sizes, as well as being color coded to avoid mixing up a 5NM with say a 4NM wrench. Of the adjustable wrenches, I have absolutely fallen in love with my Effeto Mariposa Giustaforza wrench. I have the non-ratcheting version and it is AMAZING. It has a VERY solid feel in the hand, gives a hearty audible click and is super easy to adjust. Quite pricey for its size, but an absolutely amazing tool.


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

SuperUltraKel said:


> I've used several different brands in the shop and at home. From CDI to Park to Pedros. Of the preset torque keys, I like the Pedros the best. They have a good feel in the hand, give a solid click and have spots for 3 different bits so you aren't hunting around for other sizes, as well as being color coded to avoid mixing up a 5NM with say a 4NM wrench. Of the adjustable wrenches, I have absolutely fallen in love with my Effeto Mariposa Giustaforza wrench. I have the non-ratcheting version and it is AMAZING. It has a VERY solid feel in the hand, gives a hearty audible click and is super easy to adjust. Quite pricey for its size, but an absolutely amazing tool.


I second what was said about the Effeto Mariposa wrench, super nice tool to use!


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