# Lowered Totem Solo air...



## wookie freeride (Apr 10, 2007)

Hey Guys

I am looking for some info on lowering a Solo Air totem. I cant see to find any creditable info/procedures on it. Is it as easy as just adding spacers? Are they the "Rockshox all spacers" or do the come with the totem. I would like to set one at 150mm 160mm ideally. Any info you can provide is greatly appreciated. Thanks...



Wook


----------



## RED5 (Jan 4, 2004)

I used PVC pipe cut to 20mm, giving me 160mm. You can get the instructions from the RS website, it's the same procedure for any solo air fork (reba, revelation, etc). Basically the spacer gets installed on the Solo Air side, I believe between the bottom out bumper and air piston. I just did mine recently, it was a snap.

Here is a pic to show orientation of spacer...


----------



## SamL3227 (May 30, 2004)

why didnt you get a lyric if you wanted a shorter fork?


----------



## climbingbubba (Jan 10, 2007)

here you go, i wrote this out on the intense forum but copy and paste works amazing.

ok here we go

step 1
so first off you have to get the lowers off. to do this clamp your fork to a work stand by the steer tube. then let all of the air out (very important). then use a 24mm wrench to take the air valve top cap off. then you remove the rebound knob on the right side (just pull it out) then loosen the hex bolt that it was in. also loosen the hex bolt on the other leg. when they are almost all the way out tap them with a rubber mallet. you will feel the lowers slide come down a little. when they feel free then remove the bolts on both sides and get ready for all the oil to come out on the ground (put a bucket or something to catch it. slide the lowers off and set them aside.

step 2
look up in the left side (solo air side) and you will see a C clip. remove this and then pull out the internals. here is a diagram that illustrates what should come out when you pull it all out
http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/...ev C_web.pdf
its on page 66. sorry it honestly took me 1 hour to try and figure out how to cut an image from adobe and i could not figure it out.

step 3
now that you have the rod with all the parts on it out you want to take some spacers and put them between part 15 and 14. 15 is just the cap with an oring on it. part 14 is the mushroom shaped rubber stopper and the oring cap. so in other words the part directly under 15 is a rubber top out bumper that is kind of mushroom shaped. put the spacers right inbetween them.
now for spacers you can make one or use totem preload spacers. the only important part is you don't use a skinny one because that will make the topout bumper squish to the side or something and it might not lower the fork. so don't use the rock shox all mountain spacers. i used the totem preload spacers. The amount of spacers you use will determine how much it lowers. it will lower it exactly the same amount.

step 4
put everything back together. this involves putting everything back in the way you found them, put the C clip back in and then put the lowers back on and the top cap back on. then turn the fork upside down and using a small funnel put new oil back in the lowers by putting the funnel in where the hex bolts go in. i believe its 30cc's 15wt oil in each leg but check sram.com to find out for sure. keep it upside down, put the hex bolts back in and then screw them in. some oil might come out but thats fine.

wipe off the extra oil and put the correct air back in and enjoy.

wow that was a long description. 
between this description and the diagram im sure you can figure it out.

let me know how it goes and if you have anymore questions.


----------



## Dynamatt (Oct 14, 2007)

I believe they called it a pike.. Check it out. How much you want for your Totem?


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

You can do it without pulling the lowers, FYI. It's easier if you have the fork off the bike and somewhere flat, but I've messed with it on the bike - wheel and brake caliper removed so as not to get oil on them. Have it on some rags/plastic, because you'll lose a bit of oil. Not a ton on the air spring side, but enough to make a mess and screw with your brake if you get it on there. 

1. let the air out
2. undo top cap
3. undo bottom bolt most, but not all the way
4. tap with a rubber mallet, or something gently to unset the bottom of the air spring shaft from its seating in the lowers
5. undo bottom bolt rest of the way and remove
6. compress the fork as much as you can
7. use something like a long 6mm allen to pop the rod up from the bottom of the lowers
8. you should then be able to grab the air spring guts and pull out from the top - careful, it'll spooge out some oil when you do this

This will give you easy access to the bits you need to work on, as per Red5's posted pic.

Space it down however much you like, and reverse the process. Don't forget to add oil to the air spring, and the lowers via the Speed Lube ports. (or the bottom bolt hole, before you have everything seated too firmly to do so. Just make sure to clean it all up nice and good from whatever is on you work surface, and to not mess up any of the o-rings and you'll be good to go. 

15wt, 20ml in the lowers and 6ml in the uppers for air spring lubrication. 

I've got mine down to 160mm because I found a stupid cheap deal on a Totem Solo Air in good shape for way, way cheaper than any price I was able to find a Lyrik for. It's still decently light, and really freakin' stiff. Very confidence inspiring for this hack rider.


----------



## SamL3227 (May 30, 2004)

so could i lower one to like 80mm for riding street then?


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

SamL3227 said:



> so could i lower one to like 80mm for riding street then?


In theory, no reason you sholdn't be able to. It'd give you an a-2-c of around 485mm.


----------



## SamL3227 (May 30, 2004)

dude thad be sooo sick on da street bike! be sooooo huge and beefy it would scare away all the 20riders!!!!


----------



## EDizzleVR6 (Oct 4, 2007)

i see the talas riden around town by many street riders, when they lower it, it runs at such high pressure that you gotta rebuild the seals all the time, lowering a totem for street riding is retarded, for the money get a marz 4x, best for street ripping and jumps by far


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

EDizzleVR6 said:


> i see the talas riden around town by many street riders, when they lower it, it runs at such high pressure that you gotta rebuild the seals all the time, lowering a totem for street riding is retarded, for the money get a marz 4x, best for street ripping and jumps by far


You're going on the assumption people are buying new forks just for the purpose of lowering. Some are doing it to a fork they already have, and want to run on a different or lower travel frame. I'm guessing the OP already has the Totem, and wants to run it on something lower travel, or wants to steepen his geometry up or something like that.

Why buy a new fork if you already have one that'll work just fine with just a little bit of tweaking? Doing it the short version way takes less than 15 minutes.

Also, you don't have to run stupid high pressures on lowered Solo and Dual Air Rock Shox forks.


----------



## Rb (Feb 28, 2007)

(not mine)

^^ Totem Solo-Air sitting at 90mm.

A raw Imperial SL with a lowered Totem would make a sick combination. (food for thought...) :thumbsup:


----------



## sodak (Oct 10, 2006)

scrublover said:


> You're going on the assumption people are buying new forks just for the purpose of lowering. Some are doing it to a fork they already have, and want to run on a different or lower travel frame. I'm guessing the OP already has the Totem, and wants to run it on something lower travel, or wants to steepen his geometry up or something like that.
> 
> Why buy a new fork if you already have one that'll work just fine with just a little bit of tweaking? Doing it the short version way takes less than 15 minutes.
> 
> Also, you don't have to run stupid high pressures on lowered Solo and Dual Air Rock Shox forks.


+1 :thumbsup:


----------



## sodak (Oct 10, 2006)

climbingbubba said:


> here you go, i wrote this out on the intense forum but copy and paste works amazing.
> 
> *SNIP*
> 
> let me know how it goes and if you have anymore questions.


That is a great write-up. You make it sound super easy! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## spazzy (Aug 15, 2004)

wow...kinda looks like my argyle only jacked up on POWERTHIRST mixed with steriods...


----------



## climbingbubba (Jan 10, 2007)

scrublover said:


> You can do it without pulling the lowers, FYI. It's easier if you have the fork off the bike and somewhere flat, but I've messed with it on the bike - wheel and brake caliper removed so as not to get oil on them. Have it on some rags/plastic, because you'll lose a bit of oil. Not a ton on the air spring side, but enough to make a mess and screw with your brake if you get it on there.
> 
> 1. let the air out
> 2. undo top cap
> ...


i did it this way first but the only thing that would worry me is damaging the oring when you are pushing them up through the threads.
the oring is really tight and when it hits the threads you have to push even harder.

this may or may not be a problem if you do it once but if you it a bunch it could thrash the oring.

plus its good to do a good cleaning every once in a while so taking the lowers off couldn't hurt.


----------



## RED5 (Jan 4, 2004)

SamL3227 said:


> why didnt you get a lyric if you wanted a shorter fork?


Because the Totem Solo air is so adjustable and can be had pretty cheap if you look around, that it's worth getting right from the git go.

I bought mine because I currently have an 07 Coiler which runs a 160mm travel fork, however someday I may upgrade to something with more travel. Since I'm going to want a Totem then anyhow, why not get what I want now and modify it to fit my current needs, rather than hassle with selling a Lyrik to buy a Totem later.


----------



## tmarkos (Jan 18, 2008)

*questions*

So is the performance the same? Does it void the warrantee? I love the 40mm legs, but not looking for a 180 fork. Would it be worth buying for my Tranny BR and lowering to 160?


----------



## RED5 (Jan 4, 2004)

tmarkos said:


> So is the performance the same? Does it void the warrantee? I love the 40mm legs, but not looking for a 180 fork. Would it be worth buying for my Tranny BR and lowering to 160?


Can't see how it would affect warranty, since RS suggests this as a mod for their other forks. As far as I can tell the performance has not changed in my mod'd Totem (now 160mm). I bought mine to run on an 07 Coiler and I think it is totally worth, especially if you plan someday to move up to a bigger ride. :thumbsup:


----------



## SamL3227 (May 30, 2004)

RED5 said:


> Because the Totem Solo air is so adjustable and can be had pretty cheap if you look around, that it's worth getting right from the git go.
> 
> I bought mine because I currently have an 07 Coiler which runs a 160mm travel fork, however someday I may upgrade to something with more travel. Since I'm going to want a Totem then anyhow, why not get what I want now and modify it to fit my current needs, rather than hassle with selling a Lyrik to buy a Totem later.


ok thats a good reason.

that 90mm totem should come with pics of it attached to something!


----------



## Guest (Jan 14, 2009)

Rb said:


> Totem Solo-Air sitting at 90mm.
> 
> A raw Imperial SL with a lowered Totem would make a sick combination. (food for thought...)


A 90mm Totem and Imperial SL...if ever there were an example of overkill.


----------



## Mr.P (Feb 8, 2005)

scrublover said:


> Why buy a new fork if you already have one that'll work just fine with just a little bit of tweaking? Doing it the short version way takes less than 15 minutes.


This brings up an interesting point...

Buy too big, then adjust down as necessary, and you will always have a fork that fits.

Get the Totem air - space it for the frame you are riding now, then you can space it for the frame you ride later.

I don't know how many forks I've bought to get more travel/A-C... Then they need to be reduced for the SS after a few seasons...

P


----------



## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

Rb said:


> (not mine)
> 
> ^^ Totem Solo-Air sitting at 90mm.
> 
> A raw Imperial SL with a lowered Totem would make a sick combination. (food for thought...) :thumbsup:


i'll be putting a galvanized totem on my raw imperial


----------



## wookie freeride (Apr 10, 2007)

*Red 5, climbingbubba ... Thank you*

And to everyone else who contributed. That could not have answered my question better. This is why MTBR rules. Looks like I will be rocking a 160mm Totem on a Bottle rocket soon.

Here is the thread that got me on the idea.
http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=44705

Thanks again

Wook


----------



## Hardtails Are Better (May 4, 2005)

160mm totem + bottle rocket = awesome. I'm loving mine.


----------



## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

I'll be doing this to my Totem once my spacers arrive. I have this fork for my Delirium and it's bad ass at 180mm but I'd like to drop it down to 160 or 170 for trail riding and then bump it up for DH/FR stuff. 

btw,
I went back to a Fox36 while I was changing the seals on my Totem and I couldn't believe how flexy this thing felt in comparison. I think it's worth it just for the stiffness.


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

I'm digging mine set to 160mm on the uberPitch. Max travel without messing up the warantee, and gives about a 66.5* head angle.


----------



## climbingbubba (Jan 10, 2007)

RED5 said:


> Can't see how it would affect warranty, since RS suggests this as a mod for their other forks. As far as I can tell the performance has not changed in my mod'd Totem (now 160mm). I bought mine to run on an 07 Coiler and I think it is totally worth, especially if you plan someday to move up to a bigger ride. :thumbsup:


It could possibly void the warranty when you start messing with stuff inside on your own.

Also there is no where on the Rock shox website that says its ok to lower a totem. when they first introduced them in 07 they had originally marketed that you could but quickly withdrew that. That is why there are no spacers or instructions on how to do this.

One reason i have heard is because there is a little hole in the rod in the air side and when you put a spacer on it then it does not allow for the air in the positive chamber to equalize into the negative chamber. 
now weather that will affect performance i don't know. just something to be cautious of.

all of my info about my above statement are from here on mtbr. they are from a search on totems. Also alot has come from JMH. if you can get him to post he knows quite a bit about the totem solo air. he has changed his a bunch as well.


----------



## RED5 (Jan 4, 2004)

climbingbubba said:


> It could possibly void the warranty when you start messing with stuff inside on your own.
> 
> One reason i have heard is because there is a little hole in the rod in the air side and when you put a spacer on it then it does not allow for the air in the positive chamber to equalize into the negative chamber.
> now weather that will affect performance i don't know. just something to be cautious of.


Such is the case with most everything to do with MTB, unless the work is done by an authorized service center most warranties are void.

I guess this could be avoided if using a PVC spacer, by just drilling a couple small holes in the spacer, make sense?

Still seems odd that every other solo air fork can be lowered using this mod and the Totem can't, doesn't make much sense to me.  Not arguing, just saying...


----------



## RED5 (Jan 4, 2004)

*!!!ATTN!!!*

Just got off the phone with Rock Shox tech and here's what they had to say.

"It voids the warranty, because the fork was not designed to be lowered. We didn't design our big hit forks to be lowered. End of story."

When asked what was different regarding the design of the Totem Solo Air system vs say a Revelation, I was met with great hostility and again told that they are different forks. To which I replied, yes I know one is much larger, but specifically with the Solo Air design what stops someone from lowering a Totem. Again they repeated the warranty [email protected] and the fact that the forks are different.

Whatever, seems like BS too me. I understand you have to CYA, but they are just a little over the top about it IMO. All I asked for was a simple explanation, no need to be so doucher about it.


----------



## climbingbubba (Jan 10, 2007)

RED5 said:


> Such is the case with most everything to do with MTB, unless the work is done by an authorized service center most warranties are void.
> 
> I guess this could be avoided if using a PVC spacer, by just drilling a couple small holes in the spacer, make sense?
> 
> Still seems odd that every other solo air fork can be lowered using this mod and the Totem can't, doesn't make much sense to me.  Not arguing, just saying...


I used the PVC trick on my revelation as well. its sitting at 70mm for urban/dj.

does the lyrik advertise it can be lowered? i didn't think it could either.
also if you look in the instructions for the Revelation, Reba, argyle and other forks it shows you exactly how to lower them and advertises that they can be lowered. 
no where does it say that you can lower the totem. If you can find a RS guide, instructions, or even a place where they mention it i would love to see it for my own info.

now obviously it can be done and i have done it. 
although i since have switched to a fox talas 36 rc2. i don't really notice any more flex and losing almost a pound for the same travel is well worth it for me.


----------



## climbingbubba (Jan 10, 2007)

thats what i figured, 
you have to expect they get that call alot though. probably ever since 2007. They warrantied my totem even after i had lowered it. of coarse i took the spacers out before i sent it in though. there is no way they will know you had it lowered unless you tell them.


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

climbingbubba said:


> thats what i figured,
> you have to expect they get that call alot though. probably ever since 2007. They warrantied my totem even after i had lowered it. of coarse i took the spacers out before i sent it in though. there is no way they will know you had it lowered unless you tell them.


so long as your spacer doesn't impede the flow of air from the +/- sections, and it doesn't screw up the top out bumper - i can't see it causing any harm.


----------



## Hardtails Are Better (May 4, 2005)

If you use one of the RS spacers, it's got a slot in it, which you can align with the pressure equalization hole, and deal with that issue.


I really can't see this being a problem at all. I'm not worried.


----------



## Rb (Feb 28, 2007)

Dr Phil mmkay said:


> A 90mm Totem and Imperial SL...if ever there were an example of overkill.


Clydesdale dirt jumper..........


----------



## climbingbubba (Jan 10, 2007)

Hardtails Are Better said:


> If you use one of the RS spacers, it's got a slot in it, which you can align with the pressure equalization hole, and deal with that issue.
> 
> I really can't see this being a problem at all. I'm not worried.


unless you are talking about the RS all mountain spacers. if so they are too narrow and will cause the mushroom looking bumper that its resting on to squish out one side. this happened to mine and JMH's. this could damage the bumper and/or cause it to go back to the original height.

best would be to use 2 totem preload spacers and sandwich the all mountain spacer so the wide spacers would contact the rubber bumpers.


----------



## euroford (Sep 10, 2006)

RED5 said:


> *!!!ATTN!!!*
> 
> "It voids the warranty, because the fork was not designed to be lowered. We didn't design our big hit forks to be lowered. End of story."


Fox was WAY cool and totally helpful with parts and instructions on lower my Float 36 for use on my dirtjumper.


----------



## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

Rb said:


> (not mine)
> 
> ^^ Totem Solo-Air sitting at 90mm.:


Holy crap, that's mine.


----------



## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

Lowered my Totem on my STP. 90mm








And on my Nomad. 145mm

:]


----------



## SamL3227 (May 30, 2004)

why so low on the nomad? cant it take a 160mm? or did you not want it that slack or something?


----------



## XJman07 (Apr 17, 2007)

RED5 said:


> I used PVC pipe cut to 20mm, giving me 160mm.


What size PVC pipe did you use, as in what diameter, wall thickness. Gunna lower mine when I get it and want to get the right pipe. Thanks.


----------



## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

SamL3227 said:


> why so low on the nomad? cant it take a 160mm? or did you not want it that slack or something?


I like a low front end.


----------



## SamL3227 (May 30, 2004)

lower rise bars. get rid of those spacers. i think thatd get you there. 

but thats just me. i left my totem full travel on my sxt and just got really lowrise stem/bars. cut steer.

to each his own i guess


----------



## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

I already ordered 19mm rise bars and there are no spacers between stem and top race anymore.


----------



## SamL3227 (May 30, 2004)

oh, so now its as low as it will go......unless you get those sweet flatbars! hahaha


----------



## pdirt (Jan 12, 2004)

euroford said:


> Fox was WAY cool and totally helpful with parts and instructions on lower my Float 36 for use on my dirtjumper.


...because they were designed that way, they are adjustable via internal spacers... quite different than the mod of the Totem we are discussing.


----------



## Dominator13 (Aug 31, 2006)

*Solo to Coil*



scrublover said:


> You can do it without pulling the lowers, FYI. It's easier if you have the fork off the bike and somewhere flat, but I've messed with it on the bike - wheel and brake caliper removed so as not to get oil on them. Have it on some rags/plastic, because you'll lose a bit of oil. Not a ton on the air spring side, but enough to make a mess and screw with your brake if you get it on there.
> 
> 1. let the air out
> 2. undo top cap
> ...


I'm changing the internals from air to coil. Is this pretty much the same procedure?


----------



## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

Oh man I don't think I could let myself fun flatties hahaha


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Dominator13 said:


> I'm changing the internals from air to coil. Is this pretty much the same procedure?


for that you'll need to pull the lowers. the bottom of the air guts you have to get to from undoing the snap ring at the bottom of the stanchion on that side.


----------



## SamL3227 (May 30, 2004)

ilikemybike011 said:


> Oh man I don't think I could let myself fun flatties hahaha


yeah, i know what you mean. id rather slam/cut the steer if i needed that extra 19mm. 
but who knows, maybe next season flatties will be all the rage!?!?!?!

we will see


----------



## handsomedan (May 12, 2009)

Nice thread boys, so is pvc with drilled holes for air the way to go or will the totem preload spacers allow for air to pass in the sandwhich style setup with the regular rockshox spacers? 

It would be swell to see a pic with some diameter measurements for the spacers.

Thanks!


----------



## ryan_daugherty (Oct 8, 2006)

160mm totem on a bottlerocket is a good idea, i've seen some super raked out BR's and it looks silly, the one above looks good.. same with the stp and the nomad


----------



## RED5 (Jan 4, 2004)

handsomedan said:


> It would be swell to see a pic with some diameter measurements for the spacers.


My spacer is about 3-5mm smaller than the internal dia of the stanchion tube. I drilled holes in mine basically so there would be no issues JIC. :thumbsup:


----------



## brillantesdv (Oct 24, 2007)

all this lowering talk and not one 178mm reference? for shame...


----------



## SamL3227 (May 30, 2004)

wasnt january like pre178mm?


----------



## brillantesdv (Oct 24, 2007)

thought it was earlier, around when they announced the 2010 boxxers.


----------



## tatankainlondon (Apr 4, 2004)

I suspect that all the lowered Totems here are an air versions but can the same be done to *Coil *version? I am only looking at dropping 20mm.


----------



## Hardtails Are Better (May 4, 2005)

It could, just wouldn't be quite as easy. You'd need to space down the spring shaft, as with the airs, but then you'd have to deal with the spring too. It'll be sticking up 20mm higher. The options from there would be to either mash the top cap on, which would preload the spring quite a lot, or to cut the spring down. Keep in mind that cutting it down will stiffen it up a little.


----------



## mullet dew (Jun 4, 2008)

If only they had a Totem U-turn, such a simple yet effective travel adjust. Not sure I have ever seen someone that had a problem with their U-turn, the same can't be said of the 2 step however.


----------



## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

I also recommend taking out the floodgate button from the Mission Control if you're already going through the hassle of lowering it... makes a HUGE difference. 

Take off the Low speed adjuster knob with a 4mm allen, then take off the high speed knob with a .050'' allen. Remove topcap/damper assy. Flip that thing over, and youll see a gold colored "button" thats has a black plastic surround. That is the floodgate. Remove the circlip that holds in the black plastic surround, and pull the gold button out. It takes a little prying/wiggling sometimes, but youll get it out without any damage. Observe how much more oil flow can be fed to the high speed circuit because of what you just did. Reinstall damper and adjuster knobs. Might want to go up to 7.5wt RSF while you have it apart, as the compression difference is considerable... 

Cheers


----------



## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

If you're already going to go through the trouble of lowering it, I'd recommend taking out the floodgate button as well. Basic, worth your time. 

Take off the Low speed adjuster knob with a 4mm allen, then take off the high speed knob with a .050'' allen. Remove topcap/damper assy. Flip that thing over, and youll see a gold colored "button" thats has a black plastic surround. That is the floodgate. Remove the circlip that holds in the black plastic surround, and pull the gold button out. It takes a little prying/wiggling sometimes, but youll get it out without any damage. Observe how much more oil flow can be fed to the high speed circuit because of what you just did. Its like going from a garden sprayer to a fire hose. Reinstall damper and adjuster knobs. Might want to go up to 7.5wt RSF while you have it apart, as the compression difference is considerable.


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Hardtails Are Better said:


> It could, just wouldn't be quite as easy. You'd need to space down the spring shaft, as with the airs, but then you'd have to deal with the spring too. It'll be sticking up 20mm higher. The options from there would be to either mash the top cap on, which would preload the spring quite a lot, or to cut the spring down. Keep in mind that cutting it down will stiffen it up a little.


Yep, just what he said. I did this to a Domain 180mm to get down to 160mm. Used a 20mm big chunk of cut down rubber spacer that was floating around my garage; don't recall what from.

It did preload the spring a bit, but that actually worked well for me and what I wanted.

Maybe do it with the next lighter spring, or get a 160mm spring from a Domain in the right weight.


----------



## Hardtails Are Better (May 4, 2005)

FWIW, I don't think the lowered Solo Air feels right below about 160mm. More than that, and the spring curve gets wonky, since the ratio volume when extended vs. volume when compressed changes. The fork looses a lot of mid stroke support if you drop it too far.


I've got a 110mm 36 Vanilla though, which is awesome.


----------



## Gruntled (Jul 7, 2008)

Does this floodgate removal improve performance on un-lowered Totems too?

Please tell me more, it may be what I've been looking for.


----------



## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

Gruntled said:


> Does this floodgate removal improve performance on un-lowered Totems too?
> 
> Please tell me more, it may be what I've been looking for.


Oh definitely dude, makes a huge difference in dampening because oil flow is less restricted, thus travel is much more supple and responsive.

Here's link to what dampener looks like post mod - Mission Control w/o floodgate button


----------



## Gruntled (Jul 7, 2008)

ilikemybike011 said:


> Oh definitely dude, makes a huge difference in dampening because oil flow is less restricted, thus travel is much more supple and responsive.
> 
> Here's link to what dampener looks like post mod - Mission Control w/o floodgate button


You're a champ. I'm gonna tinker.


----------



## Gruntled (Jul 7, 2008)

OK, tinkered, that was easy. I had a quick spin down the street, a few immediate changes after removing the Floodgate button:

1. More supple through entire stroke until the last 1/2" or so

2. Rebound was slowed, I had to dial another 2 clicks faster to get back to where I was prior to button removal

3. Compression adjustments seem just as noticeable, if not more?

Hard to tell without a few DH runs, maybe later today. Thanks again!


----------



## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

For sure man !!


----------



## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

wow getting very excited about this - yet to try it - never had the dampner apart has anyone got a pic of the bottom of the damper with the gold bit pre removal?

How will going to 7.5wt RSF help?

Any feedback appreciated - such a good chassis it will be good to get the internals working like butta


----------



## giantsaam (Dec 10, 2006)

Karve said:


> wow getting very excited about this - yet to try it - never had the dampner apart has anyone got a pic of the bottom of the damper with the gold bit pre removal?
> 
> How will going to 7.5wt RSF help?
> 
> Any feedback appreciated - such a good chassis it will be good to get the internals working like butta


ilikemybike has a link about 4 posts up click on it. I have been on this mod for a while and it is a dramatic improvement.


----------



## Gruntled (Jul 7, 2008)

Karve, do it, it's a piece of piss and seems to work nicely. I'm stoked. When you take your damper out you can clearly see the bit inside the bottom that you wanna remove.


----------



## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

Going to 7.5wt helps because the stock 5 can be too thin when the oil flow to the dampener is increased by such a huge margin ;] Should also prevent blowing seals in the mission control.


----------



## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

Ok ill give it a bash and see what happens - rebound is a bit foobared at the mo so it needs a good service anyway - cheers for all the tips


----------



## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

For sure, good luck man :thumbsup:


----------



## mountain_yj (May 18, 2009)

I was talking to friend of mine who runs a shop about this today. He confirmed that the solo air is very easy to do this to, and a coil has to be cut. 

In all honesty though as much as i like the totem, my friend has an 09 66ATA on his bottlerocket and the thing kicks ass. Super easy to use and rides very well, he has it set down to about 165. As far as i know marzocchi has had good luck with these forks as well.


----------



## Nut! (Nov 2, 2007)

That nomad looks mean with a totem.


----------



## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

Nut! said:


> That nomad looks mean with a totem.


That thing hauled ass no doubt! :thumbsup:


----------



## Gruntled (Jul 7, 2008)

OK, floodgate mod performance review:

I've had two decent rides downhill on the Totems after I removed the floodgate and changed to a heavier oil. My initial thoughts are:

1. Better small bump sensitivity

2. Ramp-up towards the end stroke (last 1") helps stop bottom-out.

3. Fork moves through its travel more linearly for the first 5".

4. Compression adjustments have a greater range of effect, both LCS and HSC.

5. Fork does not bob up hills with LSC dialled in 8 clicks, I do not miss the floodgate.

I highly recommend this modification. It is reversible if you want your floodgate back.


----------



## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

Looks like the mission control DH damper (new for this year) is basically this mod

http://www.sram.com/technology/194/tid/brand/rockshox/src/cat


----------



## ezduzit (Jul 21, 2005)

I just did the floodgate-ectomy yesterday. I can definitely feel a difference in small bump sensitivity, and the HSC LSC adjustments are quite a bit more noticeable.

I recommend this for anyone that never uses the floodgate on their totem.

Easy job and great results, thanks!:thumbsup:


----------



## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

ezduzit said:


> I just did the floodgate-ectomy yesterday. I can definitely feel a difference in small bump sensitivity, and the HSC LSC adjustments are quite a bit more noticeable.
> 
> I recommend this for anyone that never uses the floodgate on their totem.
> 
> Easy job and great results, thanks!:thumbsup:


ANyone done this on their lyrik solo air? Anyone confirmed that in fact the new DH dampers are 'just' like the old dampers but w/o the floodgate? if so, is RS recommending 7.5 wt oil in them?


----------



## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

frorider said:


> ANyone done this on their lyrik solo air? Anyone confirmed that in fact the new DH dampers are 'just' like the old dampers but w/o the floodgate? if so, is RS recommending 7.5 wt oil in them?


Nah the nu dampers are different but what RS are trying to achieve with them is similar to our home-brew effort. In removing the floodgate in the DH version they are acknowledging that it impairs the freerunning of the fork slightly.

check this - http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/2010 RockShox SPC_Rev A (Rev A price list).pdf - page 86 or something and you can see the difference

I tried 10weight in mine and its a bit sticky - I think 7.5 weight will be perfect. maybe even a 5/7.5 blend - ill experiment a bit. Thing was that before you could never go any higher than 5 as it had to force its way through the floodgate - but now you can tune to your hearts content with the mod.


----------



## aenema (Apr 17, 2006)

This is great about the floodgate, I am going to do this to my lyrik when I return from my trip. How did you decide on the different oil viscosity? Did you ride it at 5 wt for a bit before making the change or was it a deduction or theory based decision. Wondering if I should try it on the 5 wt for a bit to test it out or just throw in 7 from the get go if it has already been thoroughly tested by others.


----------



## Demodude (Jan 27, 2007)

I just did this mod to my Solo Air. I'm hoping that it will keep the fork from packing up on multiple hits like on the A-line stutter/braking bumps. The fork was killing my hands to the point of bruising!


----------



## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

Demodude said:


> I just did this mod to my Solo Air. I'm hoping that it will keep the fork from packing up on multiple hits like on the A-line stutter/braking bumps. The fork was killing my hands to the point of bruising!


Did increasing ur rebound speed not help?


----------



## Demodude (Jan 27, 2007)

nothing helped. i eventually lowered the psi down to 48-50 and finally got some relief


----------



## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

If that was the fix then surely it wasnt packing up but not compressing easily enough - lowering the pressure would make it pack up even more readily

I always run mine 10psi below what they recommend - so Im 185 and run it in the 47-50 psi range

If its still not feeling right then swapping out the internals for coil - which is also easy is the way to go.


----------



## Demodude (Jan 27, 2007)

*Oops*

I mention to say the fork was spiking not packing up. I got my terms mixed up.
Has anyone else noticed this fork spiking? I'm thinking it's because it's a fr fork. 
It could be a symptom of Whistler also. Or the fact that I haven't riden in a while and my
hands are like a fairy with no calises (sp?) on my hands. 
I'll ride and post some ride thoughts soon.


----------



## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

Yeah, I did it to my Lyrik already as well...


----------



## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

Demodude said:


> I mention to say the fork was spiking not packing up. I got my terms mixed up.
> Has anyone else noticed this fork spiking? I'm thinking it's because it's a fr fork.
> It could be a symptom of Whistler also. Or the fact that I haven't riden in a while and my
> hands are like a fairy with no calises (sp?) on my hands.
> I'll ride and post some ride thoughts soon.


#

Ahh ok - spiking is where the fork kinda firms up mid travel right? Usually I think its caused by too much oil being forced through too smaller damper hole at high speed - in which case this mod should do the trick nicely!


----------



## pipes10 (Mar 11, 2007)

I removed the floodgate on my Totem in 2007 and it has worked flawlessly ever since. I also did the same on my Lyrik in '08. In case you guys wanted to follow more users experiences with removing the floodgate on their Totems and Lyriks, see the following link (starts at post #15).

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=542624

As for lowering a Totem coil, yes you will need to have the spring cut professionally.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=550070


----------



## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

Hey so ive done it again (after finding an issue with my rebound) but no ride report yet - simple once u have the circlip out  Thnx for all the advice above - one thing - are u guys all running lower air pressure if ur on a solo air?

Am I correct in thinking that with the thicker oil and more control through though the damper you can ride more on the damper then the air spring. Thus run less air and get it nice and supple at the start of the stroke without blowing through the rest of the travel?

Or are u running the same air level?


----------



## Gruntled (Jul 7, 2008)

Karve, I'm running just a little less pressure in the air spring. I kinda botched my oil up, just adding a bit of 10 to my 5 weight and tuning that way. Don't have any 7.5 wt


----------



## pipes10 (Mar 11, 2007)

If you mix the 10wt and 5wt in a 1:1 ratio then you achieve 7.5wt.


----------



## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

Im finding 7.5 a bit too stodgy - gunna roll with 5 and see how it handles!


----------



## Gruntled (Jul 7, 2008)

My 65:35 10:5 wgt mix seems OK, still a bit of dive going on, but that's with 37 psi 

This fork feels so different to unmodded. It seems faster now, hard to explain what I mean by that though. The bike seems to rocket along.


----------



## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

Glad people are gettin stoked!!!

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## DOCRIGID (Sep 16, 2009)

the floodgate removal, does it matter if the totem is a coil? does the oil in the damper circuit need to be 7.5wt? when pulling out the button do you replace the circlip? and replace oil in both legs of the fork or just the damping side? thanks! the after mod performance sounds awesome.


----------



## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

DOCRIGID said:


> the floodgate removal, does it matter if the totem is a coil? does the oil in the damper circuit need to be 7.5wt? when pulling out the button do you replace the circlip? and replace oil in both legs of the fork or just the damping side? thanks! the after mod performance sounds awesome.


Coil is fine. I did it to mine and noticed the performance difference right away. I didn't touch the damper oil. I was really careful when removing the damper to not spill any oil. When pulling the button you remove the circlip and leave it off. No need to replace oil in any of the legs. You're only pulling the damper out. Removing the circlip is a real pain w/o snap ring pliers. Do-able but a pain. Whole thing took me about 20 minutes. 12 minutes of that was fussing with the circlip.


----------



## DOCRIGID (Sep 16, 2009)

sweetness thanks woodyak!, the oil question was from people replacing the 5wt with 7.5wt? did you just pull the plug out?


----------



## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

DOCRIGID said:


> sweetness thanks woodyak!, the oil question was from people replacing the 5wt with 7.5wt? did you just pull the plug out?


Yeah, my only change in the fork was removal of the plug. I saw the oil weight thing but I didn't mess with it. I've messed with oil weights in many different forks in the past and I've never felt much of a difference. Learned a lot about fork internals but I didn't think it was worthwhile. The Totem feels great as is w/the plug removal. I did have to slow the rebound a couple clicks but that's it. I don't run any compression either.


----------



## DOCRIGID (Sep 16, 2009)

Thank you!


----------



## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

can someone post a picture of the air spring side of a totem before or after it's lowered? i took a broken one apart a long time ago and had all the parts in my tool box. now i've reassembled it and the diagram from sram isn't as detailed as i'd like it to be.


----------



## koiler (Jan 28, 2011)

Thread revival!

hey guys, im new round here, this is my first post so please be gentle!

my names Ben, Im form the UK and i ride an '06 coiler

...anyway,

ive just bought a second hand Totem and want to drop the travel to 160 to better suit my bike, ive just stripped, cleaned and serviced all the innards, that was no problem, im just not sure whether ive put the spacer in the right place?

would one of you knowledgeable people be able to advise? the pic below shows where ive put the spacer (circled in red) ive also marked out different positions it _could_ go (2 - right at the top of the shaft/ 3 - right at the bottom of the shaft)

the fork was originally a 2-step, but was converted to solo air by TF Tuned so ignore the 2-step marking on the stantions 

(clicky for bigger piccy)


the spacer is from a rockshox all travel spacer kit

if any one can confirm that its in the right (or wrong?) place, i'd be most grateful!

cheers,

Ben


----------



## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

Hiya ben

this pic shows where










taken from here

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=501953

anywhere in the top out assembly will do the trick. I think that relates to area 2 in your pic.... you will find out quickly if you have done it right as the rod will poke out of the bottom of the leg 20mm less if you want to space it to 160 and you will need to push the damper rod in a bit to match it before slipping the lowers on.

I have been running mine at 165 and its nice


----------



## koiler (Jan 28, 2011)

cool, thanks Karve.

so it wants to go right at the top of the shaft or on the left as you look at my pic? (in the pic, the white bit is non removable, the spacer goes between the rubber bumper on top of the air seal and the white bit?)

one other thing, at the top of the shaft, theres a small hole, that the spacer will cover if its installed as per your diagram, i assume its ok to cover the hole?

thanks again

ben


----------



## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

koiler said:


> cool, thanks Karve.
> 
> so it wants to go right at the top of the shaft or on the left as you look at my pic? (in the pic, the white bit is non removable, the spacer goes between the rubber bumper on top of the air seal and the white bit?)
> 
> ...


that is correct. the spacers i got from rock shox had one side open and i used that so the hole didn't get covered. i'm not sure if it's "ok" to cover it, but you have no choice with that spacer.


----------



## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

koiler said:


> Thread revival!
> 
> hey guys, im new round here, this is my first post so please be gentle!
> 
> ...


Move spacer to where your #2 is pointing above the bumper. I made the spacer for mine out of PVC pipe, I didnt trust the RS spacer, it seemed to small and I worried about it coming loose with the notch cut out of the side.

see pic


----------



## koiler (Jan 28, 2011)

thanks guys!

i shall move it later on then, just out of interest, does anyone know what the hole in the shaft if for? (air?) the spacer isn't really very tight on the shaft, certainly not air tight, so i guess it should be ok. maybe ill drill a couple of tiny holes in the side.

would it have damaged the fork if i'd have ridden it with the spacer where ive put it in the pic?, (i haven't ridden it yet)

thanks for all your help


----------



## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

I think it allows the "solo air" function to work ie balancing out the positive and negative spring.


----------



## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

I pretty sure its for what ^^^Karve^^^ said, but Im not 100% certain. When I made my spacer I did drill a few holes it JIC, I figure the hole it there for a reason and its wouldnt hurt anything so WTH.


----------



## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

iggz, that is the meanest looking fork ever!


----------

