# Gopro mount + switch on easy2led



## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

Well I haven't even built a light yet but I have been trying to sort out how to put it all together. Using the easy2led smaller housing. Was trying to avoid a remote switch and wanted the power to run straight out the back rather than underneath or out the side. I need a mount anyways so why not make a Gopro style mount and integrate a switch housing. I came across Autodesk 123D so drew something up to see what it would look like. Now just need access to a mill! Has anyone done something similar?


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

looks very cool and no, I don't think anyone has done anything similar  No reason why you can't though. Personally, I'd just see if you can find someone with a 3D printer and get them to print you one - either commercially or in exchange for beer. In fact, our very own Piesoup has just acquired a 3D printer, the lucky barsteward, so hit him up and see what he thinks!


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

Thanks for the feedback, ya I thought about a 3D printer but wasn't sure how strong the finished product was. The software exports STL files so would make it easy to send off to someone. A friend of mine at work has a mill and lathe at his house so I plan to see if I can get some time on it. Need to make some adjustments though as I found voids in the front of the mount after I lined it up with the housing in 3D. Needs a larger radius. Definitely would have missed that without drawing it out. I should really just build the light but have spent way too much time planning it out. I blame the forums as there are too many cool designs and good ideas on here that I can't make up my mind.


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

I think that 3D printing is the way to go. I have tried Magicshine style mounts printed with PLA - they are strong enough. Can you send me your model? I can mate it to the exact housing model.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

I agree with Zemike, not only would PLA be strong enough, but that mount would be a complete pitch to machine


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I don't think it would be tuff to machine..
I reckon I could mill one of those within an hour..


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

Zemike: Let me clean up the model and I'll send it to you. Have to change some of the radius to line up with the housing. Not sure what software you have but I'll send the model and the STL file.

Goldigger: And your hourly rate is?  I didn't think it would take too long with the right setup. Just a pain to have to mount it in 3 orientations to make all of the cuts on a manual mill. Would be much easier if it had all square edges. 

I might go the 3D printed route. From what I can find, doesn't appear to be too expensive (although more than the cost of the housing).


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

If I went by hourly rate, some of my lights would cost a fortune..
The thing that kills it is postage from the UK to US..

How does the switch get secured inside?


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

Switch is just a standard panel mount switch. 
Digikey part # CWI281-ND

Switch will just mount in the holder (the small box is 15mm tall) and run the wires inside the housing to the driver. Although once all soldered in, the mount will have to stay with the light or else desolder the switch if I want to use the mount somewhere else.


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

Here's what I think is the final version. STL file attached for anyone that wants to use it.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Don't want to be a pain here, but won't that be an awkward spot for the switch if it's ever on a helmet?
I assume it will be in front and below the light. 

IMHO you're better off with the switch in the back, on top, or printing off a separate little housing for a remote switch.

I suppose if you plan to mount it below the handlebars it would be a bit more accessible, but still awkward.


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

Hmm, hadn't thought about that one. Thanks for bringing it up. I may have to rig something up to see how easy it is to reach up there. I suppose a switch on the side of the helmet that I can just slap myself in the head to change modes would be more practical.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

If you look at some of the builds I've done with these housings, you'll see that I've tried various ones with the power cable coming out the side or the bottom, with a mount on the bottom or side.

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/easy2led-build-custom-back-cap-772150.html








The cleanest build was when I had power and remote switch on one cable coming out the back. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/easy2led-housing-external-switch-build-843100.html









You might make a really interesting build if you can figure out a way to use the Gopro mount on the bottom and have some sort of housing for switch and cable exit on the back that doesn't thread in (to prevent wire twisting)


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

These probably will not have the correct dimensions. You cant edit STL files without the plugin for Inventor.
But why not mount the switch at the front or the side?


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

I've checked out several of the versions from various people using this housing. I do like your single cable gland out the back. Good idea to try and combine the switch and cable exit on the mount. Have to think about how to do that one without making the mount too big.

Was also pondering the switch out the side or front. I may just leave out the hole for the switch so I can just drill it wherever I want. Although, I was going for form over function with rounding the front edge to match the housing. I can square it off to give more options like you have drawn.


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

So this will be the final version (at least for this round). I almost messed it up as I originally drew the mount side with the 3 tabs when I should have drawn the camera side with 2 tabs! I left the housing so I could mount the switch on any of the 4 sides by drilling the 12mm hole for the switch.

Looks like my only option for material will be polyamide. I just plan to use the providers from within the Autodesk app. From what I can tell it should be ok. The surface is a little rougher though. Anyone have experience with this material?

On a side note, I finally built my first light with the easy2led housing. It was great when it turned on and didn't blow up.  I'll post build pics later on. Nothing special although I did reflow the LED to a copper star using a solder iron as a heat source, holding the star with a pair of forceps and then pushing on the LED with tweezers to make it flat. That was fun! Couldn't have done it without the info on this forum.


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

The 3D printed mount finally came in. I ended up putting the switch on the bottom as I still had plenty of room for my fingers to get in there. If I were to do it again, I would probably make the base a little thicker. It is 3mm and flexes a little when trying to adjust the light up and down. Also noticed there is a very small bow at the front of the mount so it is not a tight seal at the front of the light head. Would have to use some silicon to seal it up but out here in the desert I don't have to worry much about riding in the rain. I think it came out pretty good. Still need some sort of case for the battery pack to mount on the helmet since I need to be able to pull the batteries out to charge them. Now I just need to build my triple in the 35mm housing.

Build info:
Housing: Easy2Led with 6mm back cap 
Driver: Taskled LFlex
LED: XM-L2 U2 1C from Digikey
20mm star: Sinkpad Cu star from CPF
Optic: FA11937_LXM_RS from Newark.com. Modified the lens holder to make it fit over the wires.
Battery holder: Digikey 18650 with 12gage wire soldered in parallel.
Cable and cable gland: Came off of an old Niterider Classic that I had.
Switch: Digikey CWI281-ND
Batteries: Panasonic NCR18650B

Driver board soldered in. Used some CAT6 cable that was 24 gage for the switch wire:








LED and star mounted:








Switch and mount soldered up:








Mount on the Helmet:


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

ooh, XM-L2 on Sinkpad, that should be plenty bright  I've put a couple of T6s in lights, but none driven especially hard. BTW, if you want more (but alu unfortunately), you can get some free samples direct from the company itself.

that's certainly a neat looking light, very futuristic too. I built one for a friend using an XM-L and that optic and he loves it to bits.


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

Thanks for the comments and info on the samples. I've got a few more of the Cu sinkpads left. Only ruined one. Note to self, don't try and cut off the little blob of solder that squished out from behind the LED or else you will cut the copper trace also.  I picked up a T5, T6 and the U2 and decided to just go with the U2. Haven't reflowed the T6 yet. I'm itching for a mill or a lathe. Jealous of all the cool designs people are coming up with!


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Anybody ever come up with a simple 3D printed GoPro adapter? Something like this?

Drift GoPro Mount Adapter for HD Cameras DMTADPT B&H Photo Video

The Drift Pro looks like it would work for a lot of DIY applications, and would fit an Easy2LED housing well. It is a lot of money though for a little piece of plastic. Something like that without the knurled screw would be ideal. Would it be hard to 3D print a bunch? The other Candletorch one would be trickier to mount.

I notice DX and others sell good headbands and decent looking helmet mounts that are GoPro knockoffs, so that might be an easy way to set these up.


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## stuflo (Mar 10, 2011)

If your UK based. I work for a company called CRDM we run SLS, SLA, DMLS, and hp 3d printers. Oh and cnc's. 
I'd imagine your probably looming at about 15-20 quid for a mount. They will deal with the public and you can pay on credit card. 
The bonus of 3d printing is that you can make what you can't machine. ie pivot points with no need for bolts as the shaft could be capped on either end. 
I'll see if I can post a pic of a design later.


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

I haven't designed any more mounts other than the one in this thread. The price on the drift mount doesn't seem that bad. The one I had printed in this thread was $19 to the door. The base was 3mm thick and it is a little too thin. The mount tabs fit pretty tight so the base wants to bend a little if I am adjusting the light even with the thumb screw loose.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

@fourtrax...

Would you be willing to send me the .STL file you linked above? For some reason my system won't download it.


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## Fourtrax (Mar 17, 2013)

Here is the .stl file that was used for the mount. Let me know if you can't access it. If I were to do it again I would make the base 2-3mm thicker as it wants to bend a little when trying to adjust the light. It is a tight fit on the tabs but nothing some fine sandpaper won't take care of.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Fourtrax said:


> Here is the .stl file that was used for the mount. Let me know if you can't access it. If I were to do it again I would make the base 2-3mm thicker as it wants to bend a little when trying to adjust the light. It is a tight fit on the tabs but nothing some fine sandpaper won't take care of.


Thanks, it worked this time. I'm going to machine some so will have the ability to adjust some of the dimensions to relax the tight fit a bit.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Here's a link to a cheap solution I found:
MagicShine GoPro Replacment Mount


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