# I want more granny gear.



## Ghostrider755 (Oct 26, 2010)

I've been Mtb'ing a little over a year now. I'm constantly having to get off my bike and push it up hills that others are pedaling up. I followed the formula in an issue of MBA and it looks like most bikes seem to have about 4.4 feet per crank rotation and I'm at 5.2. I was just wondering what some cost effective ways were to help out my pedaling. I'm usually on the binders going down hill, so I mainly want to be able to climb better.

I'm riding a Gary Fisher Mamba. (hardtail 29er)
cassette SRAM PG830 11-32T, 8spd
crankset: Shimano FC-M341-S, 42/32/22

It seems like most of the cranksets that I see online, don't go any lower than 22. And the cassette's that go up to 34 are 9 speeds. But then I would need a new shifter and de-railer, right?


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## tihsepa (May 15, 2009)

You need to work harder not gear down. Thats it. A 22X32 is pretty low. I ride a 33X18 single on everything and rarely walk and m not that strong.


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

Search Shimano HG40 Cassette. It's a 34T 8 speed cassette. It will be the closest thing you can get to an affordable lower gear. It will make a good difference even though it's only 2 teeth.


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## ProjectDan35 (Jul 19, 2010)

22t chainring- 32t casette (1st gear) is pretty damn low. if you can't pedal that up a hill, there's something wrong. Really.


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## erginguney (Dec 30, 2005)

As others have already said, there might be a problem with something other than your gear ratio. One year should be enough to start getting into some better climbing shape, unless you only bike once a month or something.

This will obviously be pure speculation without knowing anything about you or your riding style but, for example, one common mistake made by new riders when climbing a difficult slope is to rush it (as if with a subconscious wish to be done with it quickly). If that sounds like what you might be doing, try to remind yourself to climb more slowly. The climb can be more sustainable that way. If you don't yet have hikers passing you uphill as you are climbing, then you still have room to climb even more slowly.

That's just one example. It couldn't hurt to google around with keywords like "mountain bike climbing tips" to find more such ideas.

Unless you already do so, another factor that could improve your climbing efficiency is the use of clipless pedals (instead of platforms).


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## myfun (Feb 21, 2009)

how about your technique? sitting or standing? I have more energy while sitting, leaning slightly foward depending on hill. Is you seat position too low? 170mm crank? whats your bikes weight? I would think you have enough gears. how often do you ride? <-- makes a difference if its not too often


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## Ghostrider755 (Oct 26, 2010)

zebrahum said:


> Search Shimano HG40 Cassette. It's a 34T 8 speed cassette. It will be the closest thing you can get to an affordable lower gear. It will make a good difference even though it's only 2 teeth.


Thanks. I just may give that a shot.

And trust me, I know I could be in better shape. I can usually only ride about twice a month. My bike is heavy, and I'm no tinkerbell @ 240#'s. I can usually do OK at short climbs, but once they start getting stretched out and the grade increases a tick, it's all over for me.

I've also noticed that crank's come in different lenghts. Do longer cranks give you more leverage? Making the climb easier as well?


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## gnslr (Dec 24, 2004)

Options are to change the rings on your crank, or to change the cassette on the rear wheel to try and get an extra tooth or two but it won’t help a lot. Another option would be to change your crank out completely and go with a 180mm crank arm. Then if your frame is wide enough you could change out your shifter and go to a 10spd cassette which would give you a bit extra. The least expensive option would be to ride more hills and add some strength training at the gym to help you become a stronger rider. Really are no shortcuts to fitness unfortunately


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## floydlippencott (Sep 4, 2010)

Ghostrider755 said:


> I've also noticed that crank's come in different lenghts. Do longer cranks give you more leverage? Making the climb easier as well?


Not enough to justify the expense . If you want to get good at climbing hills , ride up more hills .


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## Ghostrider755 (Oct 26, 2010)

myfun said:


> how about your technique? sitting or standing? I have more energy while sitting, leaning slightly foward depending on hill. Is you seat position too low? 170mm crank? whats your bikes weight? I would think you have enough gears. how often do you ride? <-- makes a difference if its not too often


My seatpost is up as high as I can take it. I try and sit on most hills. If I stand, I have the tendency to spin the tire and that usually causes me to eat dirt. I try and pull back on the bars a tick to keep traction on the rear wheel. I believe the cranks are 170mm.

A month ago while I was walking up a hill, a friend had me try his stumpjumper. I was able to get on his bike mid hill, without clips (different style) and continue the climb easily. I want to buy a nicer, lighter, bike down the road. But my kids are swallowing up all my cash right now.


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## miatagal96 (Jul 5, 2005)

Don't waste your $$ on going to 9 speed. You'd probably find that you still couldn't climb with a 34 because it's very hard to steer in a 22/34 gear ratio.

Sounds like you need practice and confidence...and yes, maybe more strength. You'll conquer those hills. I ride hills now that I previously though 'no way, no how, never, cannot be done by a human'. There are still 'no way, no how' hills, but not nearly as many as before.

Hit the hill with more speed and aggression. For relatively short, steep hills, the more momentum you have going in, the less strength you need to make the hill. Then, if you need to, don't be afraid to stand up on the pedals and give it some real muscle. Pull up on your handlebars so you can put even more force down on the pedals. Growl! (yes, that helps).

The best advice I got in my first year was to get as many 'hours in the saddle' as possible.


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## cjcrawford (Jun 2, 2008)

Ok Ghostrider, I'll take your side on this. I'm not sure what the incline on your hills is or what the incline is for the riders that tell you to just pedal harder but it's reasonable to want smaller gears. I'm in Colorado and have lots of 3 or 4 mile climbs that can gain 2000 feet and I'm in my granny gears all the time: either a 22/34 with 26" wheels or a 22/36 with 29" wheels. I consider myself a pretty fit rider too but I do try and spin a higher cadence than many I see. Many of my fellow riders (of a certain age) go up these big climbs entirely in their granny gear!

I believe that a 9speed 11-34 or 12-36 will fit on your hub but you won't be able shift into the small cog is set up properly with your shifters (limited to 8 shifts). You could aslo change the whole RD shifting system to 9 or 10 speeds. Some 29 riders have also put a set of smaller chainrings on the crank (there are 20/32/42 rings available) but this may have some set-up issues.

Good Luck

Chris


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## S_Trek (May 3, 2010)

Action-tec makes a 39T


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## RBowles (Jun 1, 2010)

floydlippencott said:


> Not enough to justify the expense . If you want to get good at climbing hills , ride up more hills .


Mister, common sense has no place in threads like this.

I agree, it never gets easier. I ride probably five times a week......and it never, I repeat, NEVER gets any easier. It's only the resolve that gets strengthened. "Am I going to climb this mountain, or am I going to push my bike up it and puss out."

.....I puss out sometimes.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

S_Trek said:


> Action-tec makes a 39T


and 36t, they work with older shimano rear. You can take out some of the middle gear and add the bigger cog(s) at the end by using spacers that they provided.

Be careful I can probably trackstand faster than 20x39


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## rkj__ (Feb 29, 2004)

I found clipless pedals helped me on steep climbs.


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## Trail Ninja (Sep 25, 2008)

Ghostrider755 said:


> I've been Mtb'ing a little over a year now. I'm constantly having to get off my bike and push it up hills that others are pedaling up. I followed the formula in an issue of MBA and it looks like most bikes seem to have about 4.4 feet per crank rotation and I'm at 5.2. I was just wondering what some cost effective ways were to help out my pedaling. I'm usually on the binders going down hill, so I mainly want to be able to climb better.
> 
> I'm riding a Gary Fisher Mamba. (hardtail 29er)
> cassette SRAM PG830 11-32T, 8spd
> ...


Hm... I'm riding the same bike, I weight about 210 and I smoke a pack a day. I prefer to ride uphill rather than down. I find the granny gear on my bike too low. It doesn't take me long to get worn out if I'm in the lowest gear. Middle ring low gear is about as low as I want to go on any hill/mountain.

I don't know for sure because I've never seen you ride but is there any chance you're spinning your legs off and wearing yourself out?


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## Mikecito (Jun 2, 2007)

I feel your pain (literally). My Rockhopper 29 had 8 speed as well and with the big rings and 32 low gear, it was brutal on some climbs at my 220lbs. My new ride is 26" with a 9 speed and my knees and lungs are much happier with the "better" gearing for me. 
I say spring for the 9 speed conversion and get the cassette with the 36 low so you get your lost gears back. You will get lots of "get stronger/get faster" comments here, but if you are riding for fun and recreation, there is no shame in having low gears to spin up those hills.


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## GotoDengo (Aug 6, 2010)

Sounds like a fitness issue. For me, it *did* get easier. Lost 50 lbs in about a year. I wheezed and had to stop often at first. Push yourself as hard as you can when you do ride. If you can't make it to the trails 2-3 days/week, find the steepest road nearby your house and hammer it over and over. Get a heart-rate monitor. If you stay in your "target heart rate" as this will allow you'll be able to maximize calorie burn without bonking too fast. Watch what you eat (minimal fast food/sodas, portion control is easiest at first), push yourself... don't coast much at all.... and the hills will soften up quite a bit. Those granny gears will eventually be wasted.


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## jstaples (Apr 27, 2010)

GotoDengo said:


> Sounds like a fitness issue. For me, it *did* get easier. Lost 50 lbs in about a year. I wheezed and had to stop often at first. Push yourself as hard as you can when you do ride. If you can't make it to the trails 2-3 days/week, find the steepest road nearby your house and hammer it over and over. Get a heart-rate monitor. If you stay in your "target heart rate" as this will allow you'll be able to maximize calorie burn without bonking too fast. Watch what you eat (minimal fast food/sodas, portion control is easiest at first), push yourself... don't coast much at all.... and the hills will soften up quite a bit. Those granny gears will eventually be wasted.


Good advice GotoDengo. As a former clyde myself I know that route is not easy. :thumbsup:


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

As already mentioned, it's a fitness/mental problem, not gearing. I hated going up hills. I still do, but now I can mange them better as most of the time the other side is the reward. On extended climbs, if I tell myself I HAVE to make it, I usually do. But if I give up, then it was either due to me or a rock in the way.


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## erginguney (Dec 30, 2005)

Ghostrider755 said:


> I can usually only ride about twice a month.


It looks like this nugget may have been missed by the other posters, but I have to say this: In my opinion, you're not going to be turning into a triathlete any time soon with that ride frequency. This fact may be closer to the core of your problem.

I'd be surprised if anyone got in very good mountain biking shape with anything less than a _bare minimum_ of one ride per week. More ideal would be two or three per week, if you ask me.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

For the sake of disclosure or whatever, I have a 22/34 low gear on 26" wheels, I'm not a big guy, and I really like having that gear.

In general, though, I'm with the posters who say to ride your bike more. If you're an adult, with a life, and your trails are far away, that can be hard. So rather than cost-effective things to do to your crank (there aren't any, and they wouldn't help) maybe you should think about cost-effective ways to get in more saddle time. Maybe a set of road wheels or a road bike to ride a couple times during the week. Maybe a clunker to ride to work and run errands on. Maybe just go for runs during the week, if you aren't already.

Climbing is all about how many watts you put out and how many kilos you're hauling up the mountain. Everything else is details.


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## nachomc (Apr 26, 2006)

Ghostrider755 said:


> I can usually only ride about twice a month.


There's your problem right there. When I first started riding, and I was a fat guy (260 lbs) I only had a mountain bike but I live 45 minutes away from the nearest trails. That means I couldn't ride all the time, though I would always go out on the weekends. I started riding from my house to nearby areas and doing 12-ish miles at a time a couple times a week. It was fun and I started losing the weight and was walking less and less.

A good friend of mine has been doing something similar. He has this old Cannondale mtb he rides multiple times per week on a 10-15 mile loop depending on which day it is. He has been trying to (and kicking ass at) losing weight and won't back down. We've ridden 3-4 times on the local trails and he gets faster every time.

The point is, if you want to get better, do as TdF champ Eddy Merckx said: "Ride lots."


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## Mikecito (Jun 2, 2007)

I missed the "only ride twice a month" bit. 
I take back what I said about upgrading to 9 speed. When you are riding two or more times a week consistently and still having problems climbing, THEN maybe you can start to throw money at the problem. 
As was said, you just need to get out there and ride a lot more. It gets better (but not easier)


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## osmarandsara (Jun 26, 2006)

Get a DH bike and only shuttle or ride the lifts at the resorts........just sayin'


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

cjcrawford said:


> Ok Ghostrider, I'll take your side on this. I'm not sure what the incline on your hills is or what the incline is for the riders that tell you to just pedal harder but it's reasonable to want smaller gears. I'm in Colorado and have lots of 3 or 4 mile climbs that can gain 2000 feet and I'm in my granny gears all the time: either a 22/34 with 26" wheels or a 22/36 with 29" wheels. I consider myself a pretty fit rider too but I do try and spin a higher cadence than many I see. Many of my fellow riders (of a certain age) go up these big climbs entirely in their granny gear!
> 
> I believe that a 9speed 11-34 or 12-36 will fit on your hub but you won't be able shift into the small cog is set up properly with your shifters (limited to 8 shifts). You could aslo change the whole RD shifting system to 9 or 10 speeds. Some 29 riders have also put a set of smaller chainrings on the crank (there are 20/32/42 rings available) but this may have some set-up issues.
> 
> ...


I am with the sentiment of this post, but using a 9 speed cassette with 8 speed shifters, your bike won't shift properly due to the spacing between cogs being narrower on the 9 speed cassette than the indexing employed by 8 speed shifters.

I am larger than the OP and it took me quite a long time to build up a good fitness base. One of the things that helped along the way was to use a 20t granny chainring and an 11-34 cassette on my 26" wheeled bikes. It allowed me to keep climbing instead of walking. I don't give a frog's fat ass that I could possibly have walked as fast, I wanted to pedal up the hills and by staying on the bike instead of walking, it helped to build stamina.

Here is an 8 speed 11-34 cassette for a decent price:

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Shimano-HG-...586?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories

Since you likely have a four bolt 64BCD branny gear, the only 20t option you have is a titanium one from action-tec and the cheapest one goes for about $50 (if your granny gear is flat AND replaceable).

If you went to 9 speed, you would need a new rear shifter and a 9 speed chai, but not a new rear derailleur. Going to 9 speed would allow you to get the 12-36 cassette, which puts the gearing of your 29er back into a good range for clyde friendly climbing.

I only recently took my 12-36 cassette off in favor of an 11-34 with an alloy carrier because the wheelset I am currently riding has an aluminum freehub body and I don't want to gouge it with the 12-36 cassette.

Here is a good price (so far in the bidding) for some X5 9 speed shifters (I have these shifters on my 29er and love them):

http://cgi.ebay.com/SRAM-X-5-9-spee...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5fbefbfd

and the 12-36 cassette for $34.93 shipped:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Shimano-Deore-C...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f0422d151

and a 9 speed chain for $21.00 shipped:

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-SRAM-PC-951...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f5b65aa6
========================

As for you having a 170mm crankset, unless you're on the short side for a guy, I would be looking for a 175mm crankset and here is the newer version of your same crankset in 175mm length:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Shimano-8-Speed...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item230b2b44c5

You don't NEED the 175 crankset, but it would make a difference you could likely notice.
========================

I listed some pretty budget friendly choices. You could get better quality, stronger and lighter cranks, but the least you'll pay for a better crankset would be for something like these for $75 plus shipping:

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CR303A00-Shimano+Lx+Fc-M582+Crankset.aspx

If you were going to throw a little extra at any of the parts I listed, it would be for the LX crankset with the external bearing bottom bracket.
=========================

So, you could get into a significantly lower range drivetrain (and 9 speed to boot) for around $100 to $150 (in parts) which would include going to a 175mm crankset. You just have to decide if it's worth it to you.


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

you're pushing a boatanchor 29er with a 32 tooth cassette. its gonna be hard. 

TONS of people ride 26ers with 34 tooth cassettes and granny rings. lots of internet superhero'ing going on, dont worry about it. the rest of the real world really does have a lower granny gear. 

you got a lot going against you. a 36 tooth cassette would help enormously.


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## ireland57 (Sep 11, 2009)

If you can get a cassette with a couple more teeth it's worth it.

I went from a 22/32 to a 22/34 2 yrs ago on an 8 speed mtn bike.

It made enough difference to help me out. I still use a 22/34 9 speed frequently on very steep hills.

It's ok for others to say what you "should be able to push" but in reality some just don't know what it's like for others to ride. 
Some have been so good and so strong for so long they don't remember the start of their riding life. 

I'm slowly getting enough leg strength now that I rarely walk anything.

If I listened to what some of the stronger riders were saying I should be doing I wouldn't be riding at all due to knee damage.

Learn to spin.
Get an easier gear if possible. 
Also learn to push a big gear but take care of knees/back; big gears need care.
Ride more.
Recover properly.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

I'll 2nd this answer, seems a lot missed this. Unless you'd already been riding for along time and gained fitness and technique, riding twice a month is not going to even start to get you fit. As someone else said there's 8spd cassettes that go to 34 and they're not too expensive, but they're also not light, also the range/teeth between gears is quite high and this is not always a good thing_ i.e. if you're barely making it in granny ring and 28t (2nd biggest cog) and want juts a bit easier gear, then switch to the 34, that's an 8 tooth jump and you'll most likely spin out, tire your legs and have to get off and walk._

My advice would be to try and get out at least once a week if you want your fitnes and hence climbing to improve. Even a quick 5 miles around the neighborhood on tarmac twice a week along with 1 MTB ride a week will help get your fitness going you just need to ride more regularly, even if only 5-10 miles at a time.



erginguney said:


> orinally Posted by Ghostrider755 said:
> 
> 
> > I can usually only ride about twice a month.
> ...


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## myfun (Feb 21, 2009)

I think just getting more time in the saddle will solve most of the problems. Going to a 9 speed cassette would help but not as much. 170mm crank is perfect for your hight at 5'2". More ride time = more fun, losing more weight, getting better fit and climbing faster.


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## JSumner13 (Apr 26, 2006)

If I were you, I'd keep the bike exactly how it is for training purposes. It will force you to push harder. Cycling is no doubt a high output, cardiovascular sport that requires routine fitness training to achieve results. You can't jump into it one or twice a month and expect to hammer up the climbs. Getting out there more often will certainly help your fitness level. If you can't get out on routine rides due to time constraints, try taking a spin class twice a week or a daily jog around the block. Good luck! We've all been there.


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## Sarguy (Sep 25, 2010)

Trail Ninja said:


> Hm... I find the granny gear on my bike too low. It doesn't take me long to get worn out if I'm in the lowest gear. Middle ring low gear is about as low as I want to go on any hill/mountain.
> 
> I don't know for sure because I've never seen you ride but is there any chance you're spinning your legs off and wearing yourself out?


This is exactly what I was experiencing as a brand newbie. Until I started getting comfortable coming down one hill fast enough to get started on the next hill, then grind it out in middle gear to keep speed, I found I could tackle all the hills in my area. If I went to granny gear too soon, I was spinning myself out. Now there is only one hill I use granny to slow to a hiking pace to finish. I call this the "18 Wheeler" method. You know how those truckers barrel down hills to get up the next?


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## Hoodrider (Sep 13, 2010)

"My seatpost is up as high as I can take it."

Are you getting full leg extension (barely noticeable bend when the crank is farthest from your hip, google for more info) and is your seat positioned correct front to back? You can get a new seat post for ~$20.

If my seat is not setup right for extended climbing, I'm off the bike quick to fix it. When I hiked with my father as a child I always remember him saying "Be sure to extend your legs all the way, it's like giving them a little rest each step."

Like you, I don't get to ride nearly as much as I wish I could.


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## [email protected] (Oct 17, 2009)

Ghostrider755 said:


> I can usually only ride about twice a month.


You do not ride enough to be worrying, and wasting money, on gear. That's my opinion anyway.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

Ghostrider755 said:


> Thanks. I just may give that a shot.
> 
> And trust me, I know I could be in better shape. I can usually only ride about twice a month. My bike is heavy, and I'm no tinkerbell @ 240#'s. I can usually do OK at short climbs, but once they start getting stretched out and the grade increases a tick, it's all over for me.
> 
> I've also noticed that crank's come in different lenghts. Do longer cranks give you more leverage? Making the climb easier as well?


Yes longer cranks help 170mm to 175 mm crank is about equivalent to one extra tooth on the 34 rear sprocket...

A common granny gear is 175mm cranks 22 front and 34 on the back...

That gear is very useful for a resting on long climbs, it is a little too low to power up steep pitchs....that often takes a couple of sprockets off the rear.

By all means get a lower granny, then climb and climb and climb til you get better and better.


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## Seb71 (Mar 11, 2009)

29er with 22x32 ==> 19.9 Gear Inches -- this is your current lowest gear
29er with 22x34 ==> 18.8 Gear Inches
29er with 22x36 ==> 17.7 Gear Inches

26" with 22x29 ==> 19.7 Gear Inches - this is the closest equivalent for 26" wheels
26" with 22x32 ==> 17.9 Gear Inches
26" with 22x34 ==> 16.8 Gear Inches

The higher the "Gear Inches" value, the harder is to pedal (but you go further per crank revolution).

Using Sheldon Brown's Gear Calculator.


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## cncwhiz (Sep 8, 2010)

My 29er is running a 36 in the rear, and when I'm in that and the very smallest ring up front it is so low I can't hardly keep the bike upright. I find it easier to climb in that 36 rear and middle front.

I'm a heavy guy too - 230 lbs. I still push myself to stay on the bike the whole way. stay seated and take your time. Negotiate the easiset path with the least rolling resistance such as roots or rocks. anything that gets in your way will potentially throw you off blance and stop you. 

If I can't do it and get stopped it really ticks me off, but I push the bike up a little past the obstacle and start again. If you can master the art of restarting on a hill that will make you better as well. If your seat is adjusted properly, you will have alot of trouble with this, but it can be done. 

The only other option is to grab the bike and run up the hill with it if you cant make it or get stopped while pedaling. this will increase your endurance. Don't mosey up the hill. My body is not getting off cheap by a fall on a hill. one way or another, I'm gonna be huffing when I get to the top :lol:


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## DavidR1 (Jul 7, 2008)

Man up and do the hills, stop getting off and walking. Yeah, it will be tough the first few times, but it will get easier then you will wonder why you were such a wimp and didn't do it in the first place.


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

plain and simple you just dont ride enough to get in good riding shape. you want to get better at climbing? try getting out twice a week.


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## Ghostrider755 (Oct 26, 2010)

Thanks for all the replies. Lots of good information. I still think I'm going to try and buy a little extra granny. But will definitely be pushing my self harder and try and get out more.


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## fesch (Jul 30, 2009)

Try practicing track stands or going incredibly slow at home to improve your balance. With good balance you should be able to chug up a hill even if it is very slow going. Just keep your balance and don't get off the bike, you will get to the top. :arf:


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Ghostrider755 said:


> Thanks for all the replies. Lots of good information. I still think I'm going to try and buy a little extra granny. But will definitely be pushing my self harder and try and get out more.


Twenty minutes of hill sprints(on your bike) once a week will do wonders and not require much time. Google "high intensity interval training" for some tips.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

WTF is a binder?


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

highdelll said:


> WTF is a binder?


....


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## Trail Ninja (Sep 25, 2008)

highdelll said:


> WTF is a binder?


It's a term we old folks use for brakes.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

well, I'm 37 and I think of Trapper-Keeper


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## Hotrodvw (Aug 23, 2006)

I'm just getting back in to this game myself, and I am still fighting the climbs. One thing I've found that seems to help me is thinking about gearing selection before you hit the hill. I'll be in the granny gear, but maybe in the middle out back. I can move forward faster with approx. the same effort, than I can in granny inching it up the hill. In all reality, I'm spinning way more at the cranks in my lowest gearing, exerting almost more energy doing it! Think ahead, think about gearing, and get your ass in the saddle more. I've only been able to get out once a week lately. My first 4.5 mi ride kicked my butt and most of it was down hill. Now I'm doing 11mi. (prob 1/2 of it uphill) rides in the dark, and am not feeling near as trashed as I was before. BTW........I'm 6ft, 225lbs.  

Eric


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## SpittingDirt (Mar 12, 2010)

I have a GF Mamba 29er. Love it. Best bike I have ever had. 
The reason I bought it was you get a great frame at the price.
GF Uses the same 29er frame for all their bike until you get to carbon. 
Atleast they did in 2009.
The only thing that changes are the components. 
So you can up grade the components to fit the rider.
If you want a lower granny gear, then do it! See if it helps. 
What ever gets you out riding more is all that is really important.
Enjoy the ride!
I'm changing mine to a 1x8.
See what works for you and ride the hell out of it!


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## SpittingDirt (Mar 12, 2010)

P.S. Take your bike to your local shop and talk over options with them.
They have helped me a lot by showing me differnt options I didn't even know.
They are professionals and do this for a living, they should know what will help.


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## safariofthemind (Oct 27, 2010)

Don't know how deep you want to go into understanding why you need what you need, but if you are somewhat technical, give these resources a read:

http://www.ssec.wisc.edu/~scotte/gearing/gearing.html 
(ignore the fact it is for Wisc, read the explanations and use the calculator at the end)

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/
Enter your data, choose gear inches, and don't settle for anything over 25 gear inches as your granny gear.

There are no easy answers without taking into account your weight and your physical fitness.


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## shickapooka800 (Sep 21, 2010)

although I've ridden on and off all my life, I never did much group ridding. I recently started paying more attention to people on trails and being more sociable on the trails. I was amazed the first time I saw someone climb while seated (i had a wtf look on my face). 
I like to stand on my bike. in fact I'm always standing and I only sit when I get tired (obviously I don't ride for longer than about 2 hours with such a habit). I do the "throw your weight into the pedal, violently pull up and swing the bike in the opposite direction" method of putting power to the ground. of course, this means that I've broken a few chains in my time, but that is pretty rare to be honest. I move around a lot on my bike too, I am constantly shifting my weight forward and backward with the terrain (and the stumps/roots!). 
anyway, I would take peoples advice and resources and find a gear to get you up the hill. but in the mean time, try some different climbing techniques and riding postures. you might come up with a technique that suits you better.


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## Sid Nitzerglobin (Sep 17, 2010)

Trail Ninja said:


> Hm... I'm riding the same bike, I weight about 210 and I smoke a pack a day. I prefer to ride uphill rather than down. I find the granny gear on my bike too low. It doesn't take me long to get worn out if I'm in the lowest gear. Middle ring low gear is about as low as I want to go on any hill/mountain.
> 
> I don't know for sure because I've never seen you ride but is there any chance you're spinning your legs off and wearing yourself out?


This ^

I used to be much more into the sit and spin approach, but I find that cranking a slightly higher gear a bit slower has been working better for me over the past couple of months. I'm not pedaling up any proper mountains, but I pretty much haven't touched my 22 ring in the last 3 months. Still nice to have it as a bail out contingency I suppose.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Ride more than a couple times per week.
Eventually you will get stronger & climbing will get easier.


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## safariofthemind (Oct 27, 2010)

Standing and mashing will eventually destroy your knees. Do you think you'll still want to ride when you are old? Learn cadence. It's smart.


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## Sid Nitzerglobin (Sep 17, 2010)

safariofthemind said:


> Standing and mashing will eventually destroy your knees. Do you think you'll still want to ride when you are old? Learn cadence. It's smart.


I'm 36 and don't have the greatest of knees already. Spinning @ 100-115 rpm works better for me on road bike climbs and sprints. Weighted pedal, attack position torque seems to be working better for me on longer MTB climbs, still spin ~80-100rpm on the flats though. I only wind up fully standing if I need to get more weight over the front wheel or switch up muscle groups. I still wind up ~65-75rpm in this mode so I wouldn't exactly call it mashing personally.

I will occasionally have some knee pain after a long ride on the road bike, but have had none on the MTB aside from when I bang one of them into something.

To each his own though.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

Sid Nitzerglobin said:


> I'm 36 and don't have the greatest of knees already. Spinning @ 100-115 rpm works better for me on road bike climbs and sprints. ...


 wow! that tempo rocks my hips uncontrollably
I peak at about 95rpm

and just to interject a bit...
Standing is actually less efficient _on average_... your heart-rate is, 'on average', 5 BPM faster standing vs. sitting


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## Sid Nitzerglobin (Sep 17, 2010)

highdelll said:


> wow! that tempo rocks my hips uncontrollably
> I peak at about 95rpm
> 
> and just to interject a bit...
> Standing is actually less efficient _on average_... your heart-rate is, 'on average', 5 BPM faster standing vs. sitting


Yeah, 115rpm is pretty much my upper limit before I start doing the same. Tends to start screwing w/ my knees as well. Sustained zone 4 cadence in the flats for me is generally more in the 85-95 rpm range.

My heart rate is definitely a bit higher pushing a higher gear, but I can take that even if I'm burning up more fuel. I seem to jelly leg less quickly on the MTB cranking a cog or two higher than I would be in spinning mode. Keep in mind that I really don't really stand much at all, mostly just transfer some weight from the saddle to the pedals/bars. Full standing cadence drops into the 55-60rpm range and I usually feel like I'm mashing at that point.

I'm honestly not sure why there seems to be this diametric difference for me between climbing on the road bike and the trails. Maybe because I'm typically carrying 15 lbs or so more on the MTB ?


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

Sid Nitzerglobin said:


> ... Maybe because I'm typically carrying 15 lbs or so more on the MTB ?


don't forget rocks and stuff


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