# My new 2014 Giant TCX SLR 2



## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

Just picked this up, will be used mainly as a commuter, also for wet road rides, gravel, and point to point MTB races. 

Size M/L, 19.2 pounds bone stock without pedals.

EDIT: Bathroom scale, likely wrong, more like 21 lbs (guessing)

I switched out the tires to Vittoria Randonneur Cross Pro tires in 32c for commuting. 

Black bar tape and saddle. 

It has tabs for front and rear mudguards and racks, discs etc. 

Like it so far, have about 100 KM on it.


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## Nods Dad (Jan 28, 2013)

Nice Bike. Been thinking about this one for a while. What don't you like about it?


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

Nods Dad said:


> Nice Bike. Been thinking about this one for a while. What don't you like about it?


nothing so far, about 120 KM on it in a week, mostly commuting.


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## BenjiCX (Jun 27, 2013)

I know there is no seatstay bridge, is there a chainstay bridge, and any chance of a picture of the chainstays taken from the underside showing the amount of tyre clearance, thank you.


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

BenjiCX said:


> I know there is no seatstay bridge, is there a chainstay bridge, and any chance of a picture of the chainstays taken from the underside showing the amount of tyre clearance, thank you.


I'll try to get some more pics


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## jayoutside (Mar 21, 2004)

I know the BB is actually pretty high (low BB drop), but its got a long front center - how does it handle in fast downhills - does it feel less "planted" than road bikes and such with lower bottom brackets, or does the longer front-center compensate?


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## MAX LLOYD (Jan 8, 2007)

Hi,
Swerny,how tall are you?
Been looking at one of these but deciding between sizes?
I am 6'2" and 34" inside leg.
Thinking large but just wanna make sure,
Thanx,
Max


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## Grahamlynn1 (May 21, 2013)

Congrats, the bike looks amazing. I can't wait for mine that is coming this week. Stoked!


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

*This bike does it all!*

I've got on too and it has been an excellent ride so far. I've used it for some road rides with some 25/28 tires on it, commute with rack and fenders, and have ridden off-road/gravel/paths, etc. So far, this bike has been really responsive and fun to ride. I think I've got about 700km on mine.

I switched the bar tape and saddle as well to black, as white would get way too dirty. I also put in a 34/46 CX70 crankset. I'm riding a S.

There is no chain stay bridge, nor a seat stay bridge. I'm using the Axiom disc streamliner rack and the SKS Velo 47 Trekking fenders with the optional stays. This stabilises the front, using the eyelets and on the rear, I managed to rig a clamp on the rack which gives a point of attachment that you would normally have on the seat stay bridge. The only disadvantage of this setup is that the fender only comes down halfway along the seat tube.


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

Mike, 

How do you like the Vittoria tires? I was looking at those too, but the one thing that I kept seeing was that they wear pretty fast. How have they been holding up for you?

I've been using a set of Specialized Roubaix 25/28s off of my last bike (destroyed when a car hit me) and they've been pretty good on the road, but once I get off of gravel or paved paths, I like to have the cyclocross tires on there. The stock Schwalbes have been pretty good off road (I took the bike through Crothers Woods the other day) but are a little slow on the commute.

I've got a set of Conti Top CONTACT Winter II's that I'm going to use once the snow starts flying (I'm in Toronto as well, so who knows what we'll get this year), but would appreciate your feedback on the Vittorias, as I was looking for a narrower CX tire for commuting (using paths, roads, trails).

Thanks,

Harris


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## marinwolfrider (May 20, 2007)

Toronto Commuter said:


> I've got on too and it has been an excellent ride so far. I've used it for some road rides with some 25/28 tires on it, commute with rack and fenders, and have ridden off-road/gravel/paths, etc. So far, this bike has been really responsive and fun to ride. I think I've got about 700km on mine.
> 
> I switched the bar tape and saddle as well to black, as white would get way too dirty. I also put in a 34/46 CX70 crankset. I'm riding a S.
> 
> There is no chain stay bridge, nor a seat stay bridge. I'm using the Axiom disc streamliner rack and the SKS Velo 47 Trekking fenders with the optional stays. This stabilises the front, using the eyelets and on the rear, I managed to rig a clamp on the rack which gives a point of attachment that you would normally have on the seat stay bridge. The only disadvantage of this setup is that the fender only comes down halfway along the seat tube.


Did you also swap the brakeset? I see TRP on the calipers but I thought it came with the new Shimano cx version?

I'm really close to pulling the trigger on a M/L tcx 2, yours looks awesome!


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

marinwolfrider said:


> Did you also swap the brakeset? I see TRP on the calipers but I thought it came with the new Shimano cx version?
> 
> I'm really close to pulling the trigger on a M/L tcx 2, yours looks awesome!


The TRP Spyre brake set came stock on the bike and is excellent! I believe it was originally spec'd with the Shimano 515 set, but there was a recall. I've seen the Spyre now on Canadian and German versions of the bike. This bike is an amazing deal here in Canada an lists $100 less than in the US!


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## Chris K (Aug 28, 2013)

I have also been looking very closely at this bike. I just recently sold my HT 29er because I just don't have the time to load up, drive, ride repeat. Anyone else using this as their 1 do all bike? Any concerns with this Giant?


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

Chris,

I've been using it now for about a month and it's been great for pretty well everything. I commute with it during the week with rack, fenders and two panniers, riding both roads, bike paths and some trails. On weekends I've taken it out on mountain bike single track, gravel and paths, as well as throwing on some 25/28 tires and going out on 100k road rides. The bike is really comfortable, stable, stiff and surprisingly light.

The only issue I would say that I've had is when I change the wheels, I have to adjust the disc brake callipers a little bit, but it doesn't take me long to do it now.


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## Chris K (Aug 28, 2013)

Thanks much good to hear, this is on the short list for sure. Question does the SLR 2 have a thru axel up front or is that just the SLR 1? Thanks for all your help.


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

It's a regular 9mm (I think) standard quick release. It's not the 15mm through axle which is on the next model up. I looked at that model, but it was a little too much for a commuter/multi-use bike, it would limit my ability to use existing wheel sets, and I didn't want to use the first generation of the hydraulics. In addition to the 15mm through axle, the fork is larger at the top and uses the Giant overdrive 2 headset, which has limited stem choices if you want to upgrade anything in the future. 

That being said, I'm really happy with the bike, and I guess I could always upgrade the fork, but would need to upgrade stem, and wheels as well, which could start to get expensive...


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## andeschau (Feb 5, 2013)

Hi Toronto,

May I know how to install the rear rack for this bike??
Is there any self-made/modification on the seat clamp mount, so that the rear rack can be installed?? Coz I would like to use this bike for mid touring.

Thanks!

Andes


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

The bike comes with a little adapter and bolts which mount on the back by the seat post. It has a d-shaped seat post (non-standard) which is held in place by a clamp which sits flush with the seat tube, using 2 bolts. The rack adapter fits on the back of this clamp with a couple or 'extenders' and uses longer bolts. It's a pretty clean and solid solution I've found and I normally just leave it in place, even when I remove the rack and fenders.


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## andeschau (Feb 5, 2013)

Is it able to take a photo on that "extenders", or another angle of that part of seat clamp?

By the way, how tall are you??
I'm 165cm tall (about 5'5") and 73.5cm inseam. I'm thinking to get XS size or S size.
As I usually ride the bike in 51.5- 52cm top tube (mostly XS size) with 90mm stem, 
but this bike is using shorter stem (70mm in XS and 80mm in S), so maybe S size also fit.

Do you think the frame is slightly larger than the normal TCR road bike? or in opposite?


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

I'm 5'7" and riding the S. I ride the TCR Advanced 0 in a M. The TCX SLR frame doesn't have the same top tube slope as the TCR.

Here's the adapters:


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

*Tektro Spyre Brake recall*

Also note that there has been a recall on the Spyre brakes on the bike. I'm taking mine in to the shop today and they'll replace with the new parts when they have them.
TRP Recalls Spyre and Spyre SLC Disc Brake Dual Piston Calipers | Cyclocross Magazine ? Cyclocross News, Races, Bikes, Photos, Videos


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

MAX LLOYD said:


> Hi,
> Swerny,how tall are you?
> Been looking at one of these but deciding between sizes?
> I am 6'2" and 34" inside leg.
> ...


I'm 6'0 with a 32 inch inseam riding a M/L.

I think L would be right for you.



Toronto Commuter said:


> Mike,
> 
> How do you like the Vittoria tires? I was looking at those too, but the one thing that I kept seeing was that they wear pretty fast. How have they been holding up for you?
> 
> ...


This is the second set of these tires I have run, I had a set on my prior bike (Kona Major One).

Treadwear isn't the greatest but they are lightweight and I have never had a single flat with them, commuting or on gravel.

I buy them on sale from Bike Nashbar.



Toronto Commuter said:


> The TRP Spyre brake set came stock on the bike and is excellent! I believe it was originally spec'd with the Shimano 515 set, but there was a recall. I've seen the Spyre now on Canadian and German versions of the bike. This bike is an amazing deal here in Canada an lists $100 less than in the US!


Interesting, my LBS replaced the recalled Shimano calipers with upgraded units.

I haven't been on the bike much as of late, but I am very happy with the purchase.

You have to go to the SLR1 to get the front 15 MM axle


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## plupp (Sep 19, 2011)

So there is no adaptor in the fork converting it to QR that you can take away and use with 15mm axle. I think I notice it before but maybe I'm wrong. Are you able to check it?


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## andeschau (Feb 5, 2013)

I finally got my TCX SLR2.
That is really a nice bike, especially for riding in different kind of roads.

As my area got lots of hills to climb, I found 36TX28T is not enough for me to do so (especially after a 80KM long riding).
I knew 105 could only support max 28T, but I also heard lots of ppl successfully change it to 32T, they said it depends on the lenght of rear hanger.
So is anyone here tried to replace the cassette to 11-32T successfully??

I also plan to change the crankset to 50/34 later on. And I hope the 34X32T is enough on the long climbing.


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## Anoobis (Sep 26, 2008)

andeschau said:


> I finally got my TCX SLR2.
> That is really a nice bike, especially for riding in different kind of roads.
> 
> As my area got lots of hills to climb, I found 36TX28T is not enough for me to do so (especially after a 80KM long riding).
> ...


andeschau - have you gotten any further with your gearing ideas? I've got a few 25% climbs near me and so it could be handy to at least change something. 
Doubt you could change to 50/34 AND 11-32? that adds a huge number of teeth and surely well out the range of the 105 rear mech?


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## andeschau (Feb 5, 2013)

Anoobis said:


> andeschau - have you gotten any further with your gearing ideas? I've got a few 25% climbs near me and so it could be handy to at least change something.
> Doubt you could change to 50/34 AND 11-32? that adds a huge number of teeth and surely well out the range of the 105 rear mech?


I found out the Cassette is actually using 12-30, instead of 11-28.
so I guest I won't change it at this moment.
Just try to ride more, and build up more muscle first.

But by turning the b-Screw of rear mech, I think 105 SS could mount the max 32T. (Although 105 ss said only for MAX 28T, but hey, the original setting is already 30T!)

However if I change the crankset to 50/34 with 11-32T, I believe I would need to buy a new chain to do so. So maybe later, I could buy a Ultegra crankset with BB86, new chain, and XT 11-32 Cassette to change it at the same time.


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## talknopf (May 22, 2008)

Me like it so bad 

ride safe, they look awesome.

would really appreciate some single trek review


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

andeschau said:


> I found out the Cassette is actually using 12-30, instead of 11-28.
> so I guest I won't change it at this moment.
> Just try to ride more, and build up more muscle first.
> 
> ...


I'm running the Ultegra CX70 crankset with a 46/34, the 105 SS RD and an Ultegra 12-30. I also put on the Ultegra chain and all is running quite well. I've found that this gets me up pretty well everything, although I do see that the 11-speed new Ultegra RD is offered in a GS and will run a 34 I believe. I think this bike would also be great with the Ultegra di2 system on it...


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## simonj (Apr 8, 2012)

Just picked up a SM for my wife - fitting was yesterday and swapped out a few components to make it more female friendly (stock saddle was an a$$ hatchet and swapped out the bars)

I'm super jealous - my Felt F75x is showing its age after 3 seasons of busy racing.


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## gaffer (Apr 5, 2014)

hey Toronto Commuter,

How did yo get on with switching out the Bottom Bracket of the 2014 TCX SLR 2?
Pretty sure it is a FSA Press Fit BB, although the spec says Mega Exo - which i believe is the bearings that are integrated into the Omega crank. Not sure.

If anyone is doubting this bike. Don't. 
So much bang for the buck, great spec for a great price.


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## simonj (Apr 8, 2012)

My wife's - so far she loves it


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## gaffer (Apr 5, 2014)

simonj said:


> My wife's - so far she loves it


So has everyone switched out the bar tape then?


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## simonj (Apr 8, 2012)

She switched saddles, so naturally I had to use black bar tape to match.


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

I think the white tape (and saddle) on a bike that's meant to be ridden in the mud was kind of silly to begin with. I thought about switching it to red, but it was a bit of a pain to find a red saddle that I liked.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

Also black bar tape, the white didn't even make it out of the LBS.

First real bike, quite happy with it. Logged about 200km on it so far.


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

Looks like someone is actually using their bike for riding, commuting and function over form. I like it! Those fenders are talking to me: buy this bike, put these on and make rainy riding a bit more bearable. Great bike!


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## Guest (Apr 29, 2014)

westin said:


> Looks like someone is actually using their bike for riding, commuting and function over form. I like it! Those fenders are talking to me: buy this bike, put these on and make rainy riding a bit more bearable. Great bike!


 Good point, we tend to forget sometimes that bikes are transportation first. Someone else in another post mentioned how many (maybe most) bikers add miles to their cars driving them to some place to ride, rather than riding replacing driving. I'm trying to do both less driving and more riding and frankly, fenders and two sets of tires for the Fargo is helping a lot. I do miss my CX bike and sometimes wish I'd gotten a Warbird instead of the Fargo, but then conditions change and 2.2s make more sense than a dedicated gravel bike.


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## Chris K (Aug 28, 2013)

So to all of you that have had these for a while any issues or concerns about the build or spec?


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## gaffer (Apr 5, 2014)

Chris K said:


> So to all of you that have had these for a while any issues or concerns about the build or spec?


Other than the brake recall (not an issue for you) none in 1000+ miles

I have heard mention of the Hubs being a bit sub par, but frankly for a cycle-to-work budget bike you are not going to get great wheels.

For a mostly 105 drive chain (fsa crank) it is great quality for a great value price.

There are many great bikes, this is definitely one of them in this price bracket.

All issues (other than recall) have been adjusting the fit as I am too tight to pay for a proper bike fit.

Looking forward to putting on thinner/ non-knobbly tyres and a 50T as I seem the be spending most of my time on Tarmac.


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## andeschau (Feb 5, 2013)

Chris K said:


> So to all of you that have had these for a while any issues or concerns about the build or spec?


Depends on the usage of this bike. I don't use it for CX, but for short tour and commuting. So I have some minor issues/concerns after my 1200KM riding:

1. The original wheelset is heavy!! However, the 135mm spacing for the Rear wheel is 2 sides blade indeed. If using for sporting or short tour, you cannot choose to use the lighter RB wheelset, so it just fit the relatively heavy 29er wheelset (mostly are 28-32 spokes), but not the 700c one (20-24 spokes).

2. FSA stock crankset is heavy... and the small chain-ring is not small enough. I prefer the 50/34T compact RB crankset if using for short tour. Using this bike to climb long hill is quite a problem for me, even using 36TX30T.

3. Another issue is the long chainstay, it is also the 2 sides blade. Yes, it provides a longer wheelbase for stable and comfortable rides; but it also affects the acceleration and climbing ability too.

Point 1&2 could be easily solved by $$! And other than that, this is a perfect bike for touring and commuting!


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

What does 2 sides blade mean? 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## Chris K (Aug 28, 2013)

Thanks so much for everyone's input. I won't be racing or anything, just mixed surface riding, mostly gravel etc. I find with life these days loading my 29er, driving to the trail etc is becoming more and more time consuming. Gonna unload that and move into something more suitable to jumping on going riding whatever is front of me.


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## Flewbags (May 11, 2014)

P90Puma said:


> Also black bar tape, the white didn't even make it out of the LBS.
> 
> First real bike, quite happy with it. Logged about 200km on it so far.


Loving this look. I've just bought one of these and I'm struggling to find some mudguards (Fenders??) to fit and how to keep them on. Can you explain or provide some close up pics of what you've done. And which model 'guards have you fitted.
Cheers.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

I'll post some details but they are planet bike Cascadia fenders from MEC

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## Flewbags (May 11, 2014)

P90Puma said:


> I'll post some details but they are planet bike Cascadia fenders from MEC
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


Thanks, appreciate it. I've contacted Giant UK and they've said there's no proprietary guards to get it and despite being made with rack mounts and fittings for a front guard you can't fit a rear one! Beautiful!!
Clearly you have proved them wrong and so will I


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## TheNewOriginal (May 2, 2004)

*Thanks for the inspiration !*

Here's mine, stock build + tubeless conversion

btw, 
both rims and tires are tubeless ready, 
worked great after applying stan's rim tape and some sealant


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## gaffer (Apr 5, 2014)

i dont mean to come over obsessed about weight, but seeing as i had my tires and tubes off i thought i would get some rough weights for the wheelset using some cheap electronic kitchen scales (it took a bit of balancing to get the wheel weights, but reasonable ball park figures).

Original Skewer - 55g
Original Tube - 123g
Schwalbe 35mm - 412g
Front Wheel w/Rim Tape & Rotor - 1.15kg
Rear Wheel w/Rim Tape & Rotor / Dork Disk & Cassette (30T-12T) 1.73kg

From recollection the Rotors are a touch over 100g and allowing 400g for the cassette and Dork Disk the bare wheel set (without rotor, disk and cassette) ballpark weight would be would be:
1.15kg + 1.73kg = 2.88 kg
- 2 x 100 (rotors) & 400 (cassette and disk) = - 600g

= 2.28 kg
(*Ballpark*)
---- front wheel ~ 1050g ---- rear wheel ~ 1230g 

Dont feel you must rush out to buy a lighter wheelset,
It is not to difficult to cut 200g+ off each wheel by putting on lighter tyres and tubes, which is almost 0.5kg off the weight of the bike and it is taken off the best place (rotating mass furthest from the center).

Loving this bike.


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## gaffer (Apr 5, 2014)

TheNewOriginal said:


> Here's mine, stock build + tubeless conversion


great. any issues with the process?

whart psi are you inflating the super swans to?


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## Flewbags (May 11, 2014)

*Grammage*

Weighed my stock wheels today, stripped. Just with rim tape.. - FRONT - 1055g - REAR - 1265g


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## Dragonboy13 (Jun 1, 2014)

Chris K said:


> So to all of you that have had these for a while any issues or concerns about the build or spec?


I picked up my TCX SLR 2 about 6 weeks ago and so far after 1000km's it's been pretty solid. Just a few points:

-Seat post is carbon fibre and self-aligning so make sure you use a torque wrench to adjust the seat height.

-The specs on the website show that the brakes are suppose to be Shimano BR-R515 mechanical disc but mine came with Avid BB7 Road instead. Earlier versions of the SLR 2 came with TRP Spyre brakes that were recalled. So check the specs at your LBS before buying.

-Bike fit was tricky. I'm 178cm (5'10" roughly) with a 32 inseam and I ride a medium frame (52.5cm). This size is good for off-roading but for commuting I had to increase the stem length to 110mm.

Other than that, the specs are pretty good for the price! Shimano 105 drive train is pretty smooth!


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

Flewbags said:


> Thanks, appreciate it. I've contacted Giant UK and they've said there's no proprietary guards to get it and despite being made with rack mounts and fittings for a front guard you can't fit a rear one! Beautiful!!
> Clearly you have proved them wrong and so will I


Took a month but:

https://plus.google.com/101586313862121562119/posts/QiXEjE2Sz2p

Just rolled over 550km, really happy with the bike.


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## gaffer (Apr 5, 2014)

what is driving me a little crazy is how much setback the D Fuse seatpost has ....

when i measure it - i get different results!

a second & third opinion would be great.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

The one off 19mm spindle press fit BB sucks, every single tool out there is for a 24mm spindle.

I don't know how to take it off without destroying the bb.

I want to install my new BB91 BB and Ultegra 6750 crank, so I can mount a stages power meter.

I rolled over 1050km, the front has started to creak (sounds like a click) some when I am standing and putting load onto the handlebars, torqued the stem bolts not long ago.


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## gaffer (Apr 5, 2014)

P90Puma said:


> The one off 19mm spindle press fit BB sucks, every single tool out there is for a 24mm spindle.
> 
> I don't know how to take it off without destroying the bb.
> 
> ...


did know that about the tool. I imagine a LBS will be able to get it out - likely with a hammer though.

i had a creak that i was convinced was the BB, and internet story about FSA BBs helped that along. I check the bolt of the pedals and chainrings and still - every now and again this infuriating creak started.

eventually i thought of spraying GT45 into the springs of the SPD pedals.

worked a charm. need to do it every few weeks. but it was def the issue.


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## trauma-md (Nov 22, 2004)

Also. That D-post and clamp can creak too. It sounds like it comes from the BB because it seems to occur with pedal strokes. Take out the post and grease it, along with the clamping wedges. Seemed to make more noise when OUT of the saddle torquing the frame.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

trauma-md said:


> Also. That D-post and clamp can creak too. It sounds like it comes from the BB because it seems to occur with pedal strokes. Take out the post and grease it, along with the clamping wedges. Seemed to make more noise when OUT of the saddle torquing the frame.


interesting. Will try this.


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## millargeo (Apr 29, 2012)

So my LBS has one of these in stock at a killer price right now. Size M/L. I'm 5'10, 31 inseam, and would really basically use this as a road bike for my clyde body.

Thoughts on appropriateness of bike/size?


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## Flewbags (May 11, 2014)

I'd have thought that would be a bit big for you. I'm 6'1 with 34'' inside leg and have a M/L. It's just big enough for me. I probably sit somewhere between the M/L and the L.
If the LBS has one in why not go and try it. It's a nice bike.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

I am 5'10 and 32" inseam and the ML was too large for me.

What's a killer price? I paid 1350 for mine.


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## Flewbags (May 11, 2014)

Mine was £999 on 3 years interest free finance from All Terrain Cycles in Yorkshire. They're not listing them anymore but they're still no at £995 with Formby Cycles near Southport on interest free over 2 yrs.


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## millargeo (Apr 29, 2012)

$1040. Giant sent LBS the wrong bike, but didn't want to take it back so they extended floorplan allowance and he just wants it gone.

I just rode it. It seems like the big difference between the M and the M/L is top tube length/reach, at least on paper. I flipped the stem and that helped. I think it was OK, but I'm compromised by having ridden nothing but mountain bikes in the last 20 years. Anything with a more road/cross-ish setup feels foreign to me.

My use of this bike will really be as a go hop on it and pedal my 275 pounds on pavement for a few hours/30-ish miles for exercise. I'll probably put some slick 28 tires on it.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

millargeo said:


> $1040. Giant sent LBS the wrong bike, but didn't want to take it back so they extended floorplan allowance and he just wants it gone.
> 
> I just rode it. It seems like the big difference between the M and the M/L is top tube length/reach, at least on paper. I flipped the stem and that helped. I think it was OK, but I'm compromised by having ridden nothing but mountain bikes in the last 20 years. Anything with a more road/cross-ish setup feels foreign to me.
> 
> My use of this bike will really be as a go hop on it and pedal my 275 pounds on pavement for a few hours/30-ish miles for exercise. I'll probably put some slick 28 tires on it.


That's a great price. Maybe a shorter stem will help, I felt too stretched over the bike reaching for the bars.

I run 700x28 marathon plus for commuting on mine.


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## Dragonboy13 (Jun 1, 2014)

millargeo said:


> $1040. Giant sent LBS the wrong bike, but didn't want to take it back so they extended floorplan allowance and he just wants it gone.


That's a really good price!


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

P90Puma said:


> interesting. Will try this.


This totally worked thank you!


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

Looks like the 2015 model is up on Giant's website.

11spd 105 and they have seen what everyone did and dropped the stupid white.

It also says it has a 15mm thru-axle (on the SLR2) but it doesn't look like it to me?

TCX SLR 2 (2015) | Giant Bicycles | United States


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## trauma-md (Nov 22, 2004)

P90Puma said:


> This totally worked thank you!


:thumbsup:


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

I've got over 3000km on mine now, and have ridden it as a commuter all winter with studded tires, raced it at Steaming Nostril and Paris-Ancaster, and used it as a fall/spring road bike with fenders and 25/28 road slicks. This bike has been awesome and pretty well does it all. I just got my first flat as well, but it was a sidewall tear on a new set of Clement LAS that got caught in a rut. I can't recommend this bike enough. I've had no issues with the hubs, and the wheel set has been pretty decent. Eventually, I'd like to put on a set of Stan's new Grail wheels.


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

The seat post is carbon I believe, so you might want to use carbon compound and not grease.


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

I had a bit of a squeak coming from the headset area, and thought it sounded like cables rubbing. A mechanic at my LBS told me that it might be something to do with the bottom bearings of the headset in the Giants. A little bit of TriFlow dribbled in there has solved it.


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

Awesome on singletrack. I've been riding a lot through the Don Valley trails and there's only been a few places where I had to actually get off the bike, due to the steepness of the trail, mostly on the descent.


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

Flewbags said:


> Loving this look. I've just bought one of these and I'm struggling to find some mudguards (Fenders??) to fit and how to keep them on. Can you explain or provide some close up pics of what you've done. And which model 'guards have you fitted.
> Cheers.


I'm using the SKS Velo 47 Trekking mudguards with the standard U-stays (VELO 47 TREKKING - mudguards - de - SKS Germany). They fit perfectly and are really clean install, without having to use any zip ties, etc. Make sure you get a rack accessory kit with the large spacer washers for a good fit though. I posted some pictures previously in the thread.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

Toronto Commuter said:


> I had a bit of a squeak coming from the headset area, and thought it sounded like cables rubbing. A mechanic at my LBS told me that it might be something to do with the bottom bearings of the headset in the Giants. A little bit of TriFlow dribbled in there has solved it.


I had nasty squeaks coming from there and I sprayed it down with lube and all is well.


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## jonnify (Jul 24, 2014)

Toronto Commuter said:


> I'm 5'7" and riding the S. I ride the TCR Advanced 0 in a M. The TCX SLR frame doesn't have the same top tube slope as the TCR.
> 
> Here's the adapters:
> View attachment 854543


I can't for the life of me figure out what you did here. I just bought this bike (my first serious ride too), and I want a rack. My LBS has suggested i use bags, but I know it's kind of lame, but I really like the look you got going on here. Would you mind elaborating a bit more on what the "cylindrical adapters" and "rack adapters" are?


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

jonnify said:


> I can't for the life of me figure out what you did here. I just bought this bike (my first serious ride too), and I want a rack. My LBS has suggested i use bags, but I know it's kind of lame, but I really like the look you got going on here. Would you mind elaborating a bit more on what the "cylindrical adapters" and "rack adapters" are?


The rear rack attachment should have come with the bike, you bolt it on through the seat post clamp. It's 2 cylinder spacers and a block adapter.


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## jonnify (Jul 24, 2014)

P90Puma said:


> The rear rack attachment should have come with the bike, you bolt it on through the seat post clamp. It's 2 cylinder spacers and a block adapter.


I bought my bike as a display/trial model for $1100. It came with nothing that wasn't already attached.


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## jonnify (Jul 24, 2014)

Toronto Commuter said:


> I've got on too and it has been an excellent ride so far. I've used it for some road rides with some 25/28 tires on it, commute with rack and fenders, and have ridden off-road/gravel/paths, etc. So far, this bike has been really responsive and fun to ride. I think I've got about 700km on mine.
> 
> I switched the bar tape and saddle as well to black, as white would get way too dirty. I also put in a 34/46 CX70 crankset. I'm riding a S.
> 
> ...


Are you having issues with that fender being so high on the seat tube? I'm in the NW, there will be a LOT of rain to deal with and I'm wondering if I follow your build, if that big gap would be an issue.


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

jonnify said:


> I bought my bike as a display/trial model for $1100. It came with nothing that wasn't already attached.


You might be able to have your LBS order it for you from Giant.


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

jonnify said:


> Are you having issues with that fender being so high on the seat tube? I'm in the NW, there will be a LOT of rain to deal with and I'm wondering if I follow your build, if that big gap would be an issue.


We had a really rainy spring and a pretty brutal winter this year and I didn't find the gap an issue. In the wet I ride with the Shimano cycling boots, so my feet are pretty dry and I didn't get much splash on the lower legs from the gap.


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## Flewbags (May 11, 2014)

Anoobis said:


> andeschau - have you gotten any further with your gearing ideas? I've got a few 25% climbs near me and so it could be handy to at least change something.
> Doubt you could change to 50/34 AND 11-32? that adds a huge number of teeth and surely well out the range of the 105 rear mech?


There's nothing to stop you dropping to a 34 chainring as that would not add any extra teeth so the mech would handle it fine. 
You can also get a Shia Tiagra 10 speed cassette 12-30 which I am running. See this from Ribble Cycles - You should get with a 34x30 on a 105 no problem

Shimano 10 Speed Tiagra 4600 Cassette, Cassettes, CASSETTES.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

Flewbags said:


> There's nothing to stop you dropping to a 34 chainring as that would not add any extra teeth so the mech would handle it fine.
> You can also get a Shia Tiagra 10 speed cassette 12-30 which I am running. See this from Ribble Cycles - You should get with a 34x30 on a 105 no problem
> 
> Shimano 10 Speed Tiagra 4600 Cassette, Cassettes, CASSETTES.


The 12-30 cassette comes standard, at least on the Canadian models.


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## Gus68 (Nov 24, 2010)

Nice TCX. I picked up a used 2013 TCX Advanced SL frame for $700 and put all of my old parts on it from my road bike that I upgraded. Just had to buy brakes and a new saddle. I use this bike for trail riding mostly and it's so much lighter and faster than my hybrid I love it. If the frame holds up, I'll likely buy a SRAM Red set to replace the mechanics when the Shimano 105 parts wear out. These bikes are awesome.


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

Flewbags said:


> There's nothing to stop you dropping to a 34 chainring as that would not add any extra teeth so the mech would handle it fine.
> You can also get a Shia Tiagra 10 speed cassette 12-30 which I am running. See this from Ribble Cycles - You should get with a 34x30 on a 105 no problem
> 
> Shimano 10 Speed Tiagra 4600 Cassette, Cassettes, CASSETTES.


As mentioned already, 12x30 comes standard on the Canadian model. I'm running 34/46 x 12-30 and it's been great. Can get up pretty well everything I've encountered, except some really steep single track in the Don Valley, which I usually manage to get almost to the top of...but I think that is more lack of fitness than gearing!


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## jonnify (Jul 24, 2014)

*Bought fenders.... PLEASE advise!*



Toronto Commuter said:


> We had a really rainy spring and a pretty brutal winter this year and I didn't find the gap an issue. In the wet I ride with the Shimano cycling boots, so my feet are pretty dry and I didn't get much splash on the lower legs from the gap.


I was able to do a little shopping today and came home with a set of Velo 42 Urban mudguards (amongst other things). The shop(s) I went to today did not carry the Velo 47, however, the Velo 42 was on sale for $15 with the U-stays.

Now that I'm home, I'm tinkering with the install and NONE of the screws that came with the SKS fenders fit onto the bike. First, it was the carbon fork hole for the top of the front fender. Then, the tabs on the bottom of the front fender. Next, the rear holes didn't come close either. Well, at least it's consistent. Did you have an issue with this? Maybe because it was on "clearance", I might have gotten some crummy screws?

I'm new to all of this so if it's something as silly as, "just drill that sucker in there and quit being a #@%^!" Please tell me.

I haven't been able to find a rack just quite yet, so the little rigging bit in the back is going to be tricky.

BTW, I did talk to my LBS about the seat retention plate and they hooked me up without a question and apologized that they forgot to give it to me with my purchase.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

TheNewOriginal said:


> Here's mine, stock build + tubeless conversion
> 
> btw,
> both rims and tires are tubeless ready,
> worked great after applying stan's rim tape and some sealant


I am a tubeless noob, but I just ordered road wheels so I want to remount my stock offroad tires to the stock wheels and go tubeless.

Is the factory rim tape not good enough? I thought I just needed valves and sealant?


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

P90Puma said:


> I am a tubeless noob, but I just ordered road wheels so I want to remount my stock offroad tires to the stock wheels and go tubeless.
> 
> Is the factory rim tape not good enough? I thought I just needed valves and sealant?


Bueller? Anyone.

Also upgraded to the CX70 front derailleur, GREAT upgrade, shifts from the small to big are much easier.


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## MankyManning (Aug 11, 2014)

Toronto Commuter said:


> I'm using the SKS Velo 47 Trekking mudguards with the standard U-stays (VELO 47 TREKKING - mudguards - de - SKS Germany). They fit perfectly and are really clean install, without having to use any zip ties, etc. Make sure you get a rack accessory kit with the large spacer washers for a good fit though. I posted some pictures previously in the thread.


Hi, I don't quite understand the bit about the rack accessory kit? Can you provide more details? Is that from SKS as well? I couldn't find anything on the website. (also does it mean they will only fit with a rack fitted too?)


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## MankyManning (Aug 11, 2014)

Toronto Commuter said:


> I'm 5'7" and riding the S. I ride the TCR Advanced 0 in a M. The TCX SLR frame doesn't have the same top tube slope as the TCR.
> 
> Here's the adapters:
> View attachment 854543


I am a bit puzzled, this is all I got with mine:-


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## Type 100 (Aug 11, 2014)

Hello all. Newbie here from the Philippines. I got my own TCX SLR 2 on the last week of May. I'm 5'7" (170cm) in height, with a 28" (71cm) inseam, and ride a size S. After 900 km/560 miles of riding on mostly craptastic roads, it's been a peach.

Some observations:
- The saddle clamp and lower rails can slip and angle downward if you suffer a hard drop while climbing seated on the nose of the saddle. In a particularly bad incident, the lower rails themselves might no longer be in alignment with each other (i.e. one side may have more angle than the other). Fortunately, this is easily remedied, and the clamp and lower rails are made of metal, so they're not as finicky with torque settings as the rest of the carbon seatpost is. Recommended torque is 15-18 Nm.

- This was my first bike with disc brakes and so far they've been very consistent in any condition. Outright power isn't so different from a well-tuned rim brake, but the power doesn't go away when things get wet.

Apart from that, it's been great. I have an Axiom Streamliner Disc rack and SKS Longboard fenders coming via sea freight, and I'm getting impatient for them to arrive. In the meantime, I took off the stock Super Swans and installed 700x28 Spez Espoir Sport slick rubber for road commute duty, then transferred over my commute gear from my folding bike. I've also swapped out the worn stock TRP semi-metallic front pads and replaced them with Shimano B01S resin units.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

gaffer said:


> Front Wheel w/Rim Tape & Rotor - 1.15kg
> Rear Wheel w/Rim Tape & Rotor / Dork Disk & Cassette (30T-12T) 1.73kg


I got 1775 for the rear and 1194 for the front.

I just went to ebay 38mm chinese carbon wheels and got 1376 rear and 937 front with XT RT76 rotors.

Can't run them yet because my tube valves are too short.

Curious to see what shaving 1.4 pounds off the bike will feel like.

Edit: Would have been nice before this yesterday, but I still made it up (Whiteface NY)


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## pitbullandmtb (Jul 31, 2011)

That's a great pic!!!!


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## Type 100 (Aug 11, 2014)

Installed SKS P45 Longboard full-length fenders on my bike. They advertise these as fenders with the most coverage. I know that SKS makes very good fenders because my Dahon Vitesse came with them as stock.




Installation was a pain in the butt and wasn't as easy as it could have been, because the included instructions aren't idiot-proof. The hardest bit was measuring and cutting the steel stays, and actually fitting them to the fenders. If you don't know what you're doing, you can easily cut too much off the stays. Tweaking the fender height is important so that tire rubbing is avoided, and you can opt to minimize the fender gap as well.









While it has fender eyelets, the Giant TCX SLR 2 doesn't have a brake bridge and chainstay bridge - two locations where a full-length fender usually anchors itself to the frame. I repurposed my rear reflector mount to act as a makeshift brake bridge, while I zip-tied the leading edge of the rear fender to the chainstays.




Goodbye stained shirts and wet bum, hello cleaner drivetrain and all-weather commuting.


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## Type 100 (Aug 11, 2014)

Has anybody else noticed the two little caps on the underside of the non-driveside chainstay? I was wondering what those were for. They look like "caps" but I can't remove them by hand, although they're loose and can be pressed in easily.

One of the caps I'm referring to is on the left of the zip tie in the photo below. The other is just outside the frame


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

Type 100 said:


> Has anybody else noticed the two little caps on the underside of the non-driveside chainstay? I was wondering what those were for. They look like "caps" but I can't remove them by hand, although they're loose and can be pressed in easily.
> 
> One of the caps I'm referring to is on the left of the zip tie in the photo below. The other is just outside the frame


Pretty sure they are for the DI2 battery.

Mounted my new ebay carbon 38mm clincher wheelset + 700x28 conti gatorskins:










No real impressions yet, been off the bike for a bit and pigged out on food so not feeling it.

Based on the numbers bike should have lost almost 3lbs from the stock wheelset + marathon plus combo.


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## pitbullandmtb (Jul 31, 2011)

Very nice!! I'm saving to do a set of Grails and King Hubs. Saving is a slow process 😡


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## MankyManning (Aug 11, 2014)

@type 100, did you consider the SKS raceblade XL mudguards? They seem like they would be an easier fit.


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## pitbullandmtb (Jul 31, 2011)

pitbullandmtb said:


> Very nice!! I'm saving to do a set of Grails and King Hubs. Saving is a slow process ?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Actually, gonna do Grails and DT Swiss 240's...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## sindreh (Sep 2, 2014)

P90Puma said:


> Mounted my new ebay carbon 38mm clincher wheelset + 700x28 conti gatorskins:


Awesome! Love the new wheels! Do you have an ebay-link? How much did you pay?


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## Type 100 (Aug 11, 2014)

MankyManning said:


> @type 100, did you consider the SKS raceblade XL mudguards? They seem like they would be an easier fit.


From what I understand, the Raceblades are a "temporary" fender set. I don't have plans of removing mine very frequently. Besides, it seems no matter what kind or size fenders you run, you will still have to deal with the little bolt under the fork steerer that anchors the front brake cable run, as it tends to push the leading edge of the front fender askew.

I'm running 700x28C tires now. After the initial week, I've had to adjust the fenders to minimize gap while reducing the chances of the hardware rubbing on the spinning tire. So far so good.


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## DenverPoke (Apr 19, 2011)

Just got my 2015 TCX2 yesterday and am trying to set it up tubeless from the get-go.

I need advice on setting up the super swans/stock rims tubeless? I used gorilla tape (1 inch role fit perfectly) and a gas station air compressor... But, I didn't hear the reassuring loud "pop/pop" that I hear whenever I set up my mtb tubeless (Stans Rims/Racing Ralfs TR). Neither f/r tire/rim combo was very tight, didn't need tools, which kinda makes me nervous... 

I was able to get the rear tire to seal on the first try and it held pressure overnight . I am still unable to get the rear tire to seal, so I stuck a tube in for the shakedown ride today. 
Thanks!


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## ExhaustPipe (Aug 14, 2007)

My Super Swans fit extremely loose on the SX-2 wheels. Not sure if it's a common thing, but it instantly turned me off to a successful tubeless setup.


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## Anoobis (Sep 26, 2008)

My super swan/SX-2 combo is baggy too but gave it a go and got nowhere. Used one wrap of yellow stans style tape and a stans valve. Wondering whether to give gorilla tape a go to pack it out further. 
I've never had a pop using gorilla tape, but I do with the yellow tape.


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## DenverPoke (Apr 19, 2011)

Anoobis said:


> My super swan/SX-2 combo is baggy too but gave it a go and got nowhere. Used one wrap of yellow stans style tape and a stans valve. Wondering whether to give gorilla tape a go to pack it out further.
> I've never had a pop using gorilla tape, but I do with the yellow tape.


Thanks for the response. The rear tire is still holding up well after two rides and several days tubeless. One off road commute, One light mtb trail ride. I even hit the rim on some rocks during my mtb ride and did some hard cornering with no burping/folding/dieing. So I'm gaining confidence in the set-up slowly.

As for the front tire...
I am going to wrap another layer of gorilla tape per a friends advice and use his air compressor in the coming days to try to get the front to set up and seal. He explained that another layer should push the tire up just slightly and help it capture.

My bike shop assured me that these could be set up tubeless (despite not having the tubeless ready badge).

Anyone have another set of tires they would recommend for this rim? My other riding buddy suggested the specialized tracer. I like schwalbes/maxxis in general, but have not seen that they have released a tubeless ready cx tire.


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## mountainclimb (Aug 24, 2013)

*bottom bracket and crank replacement*

Hi Toronto and gaffer, 
did you ever figure out what kind of BB it is and crank compatibility. would a GXP Sram Force fit on this frame? I imagine I would need to get a BB, but what size and brand?

I appreciate any help, I'm coming from the era when there was only english and italians BB......


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

mountainclimb said:


> Hi Toronto and gaffer,
> did you ever figure out what kind of BB it is and crank compatibility. would a GXP Sram Force fit on this frame? I imagine I would need to get a BB, but what size and brand?
> 
> I appreciate any help, I'm coming from the era when there was only english and italians BB......


It's a 19mm spindle, afiak the only thing that fits is fsa omega. I swapped in a BB91 bb for my ultegra 6700 50/34 crank.


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## mountainclimb (Aug 24, 2013)

P90Puma said:


> It's a 19mm spindle, afiak the only thing that fits is fsa omega. I swapped in a BB91 bb for my ultegra 6700 50/34 crank.


somebody from another forum sugested to use a BB86 instead, any thoughts which will work best?

also which bottom bracket remover would I need? I have the BBT9, bbt22 and bbt18, but I don't think any of them work. thank you.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

mountainclimb said:


> somebody from another forum sugested to use a BB86 instead, any thoughts which will work best?
> 
> also which bottom bracket remover would I need? I have the BBT9, bbt22 and bbt18, but I don't think any of them work. thank you.


bottom bracket - FSA Omega MegaEXO Press fit BB 19mm removal (non standard BB86) - Bicycles Stack Exchange

My Shimano ROAD BB91 works, doesn't creak, can't complain.


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## Type 100 (Aug 11, 2014)

Image below taken from BikeRumor:









There's a company called Kogel that's trying to make adapters for all the bottom bracket standards out there and that's what the image is for.

Technically speaking, Giant's road bike frames use BB86...but apparently they're cross-compatible with BB92

Also, the documentation bundle that came with my bike says that "Shimano Press-Fit" BBs should work fine


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## mountainclimb (Aug 24, 2013)

good for Kogel!

I ended up going with a BB86 press fit for my Sram GXP. my understanding is that if you need a Shimano GXP, you go with the BB91 like puma did. ironically they are both 86.5 shell!

other than the heavy crank, the rest of the bike is the best buck for your money out there. I love this bike!


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## cyclomic (Sep 28, 2014)

Hi,
Anybody knows the weight of the complete bike?
Thanks


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## pitbullandmtb (Jul 31, 2011)

I think mine came in just under 18 lbs. But that's what some guys said who were working on it. 


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

pitbullandmtb said:


> I think mine came in just under 18 lbs. But that's what some guys said who were working on it.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No way.

Mine with Carbon wheels, 700x28 gatorskins, ultegra crankset, XT pedals was 20.1 lbs according to a luggage scale.

22lbs with stock wheels/tires.


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## pitbullandmtb (Jul 31, 2011)

P90Puma said:


> No way.
> 
> Mine with Carbon wheels, 700x28 gatorskins, ultegra crankset, XT pedals was 20.1 lbs according to a luggage scale.
> 
> 22lbs with stock wheels/tires.


Sounds good...like I said...Thought and estimate of what I heard...Forget my post ;_)

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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

I've recently installed a rear rack on mine, I somehow managed to lose the seatpost clamp adaptor. Had to rig it to the seatstays using the rubberized c clamps. 

Does anyone know if you can order a replacement clamp from Giant? My LBS is quite a drive away from me.

Still loving the bike. I think I'll install a 50/34 compact chainset at some point. Likely 105 to match the rest of the kit

Glad to see nothing much has changed for 2015


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## mountainclimb (Aug 24, 2013)

pitbullandmtb said:


> Sounds good...like I said...Thought and estimate of what I heard...Forget my post ;_)
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I doubt it, but likely you can have one of the giant dealers order one for you and ship it to you so you don't have to pick it up. if there is not much difference I would upgrade to Ultegra crankset rather than 105, but only if you ride a lot and do some racing.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

Swerny said:


> I've recently installed a rear rack on mine, I somehow managed to lose the seatpost clamp adaptor. Had to rig it to the seatstays using the rubberized c clamps.
> 
> Does anyone know if you can order a replacement clamp from Giant? My LBS is quite a drive away from me.
> 
> ...


It's the 11 speed 105 on the 2015 btw.


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

P90Puma said:


> It's the 11 speed 105 on the 2015 btw.


yes, you are correct.

I'm fine with 10 sp. All 3 of my bikes are now 10 sp.


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

The new rims look good. Does the bike feel lighter at all? Greater acceleration?


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

mountainclimb said:


> Hi Toronto and gaffer,
> did you ever figure out what kind of BB it is and crank compatibility. would a GXP Sram Force fit on this frame? I imagine I would need to get a BB, but what size and brand?
> 
> I appreciate any help, I'm coming from the era when there was only english and italians BB......


Here is the one that I used: wiggle.com | Shimano PressFit Bottom Bracket with Inner Cover | Bottom Brackets

model number SM-BB91-41. All has been good with it using the Shimano FC-CX70 crankset. I'm actually having it overhauled shortly


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

*Sad day - broken frame*

Sad day. I broke my frame last week...Giant didn't replace as they said it wasn't a manufacturing flaw, but they did give me the 'crash replacement' price for a replacement frame. So, I'm upgrading the frame to the TCX SLR 1, with the full carbon fork and through axle. Just have to get the bike rebuilt, change the stem and rebuild the front wheel with a new hub...


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## DenverPoke (Apr 19, 2011)

Toronto Commuter said:


> Sad day. I broke my frame last week...Giant didn't replace as they said it wasn't a manufacturing flaw, but they did give me the 'crash replacement' price for a replacement frame. So, I'm upgrading the frame to the TCX SLR 1, with the full carbon fork and through axle. Just have to get the bike rebuilt, change the stem and rebuild the front wheel with a new hub...
> View attachment 929793


Boo! Were you racing cx, mtb'ing, crashing or just Riding along?


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

DenverPoke said:


> Boo! Were you racing cx, mtb'ing, crashing or just Riding along?


Fortunately, I was training with club for an upcoming CX race, and noticed the bike really shuddering while braking into corners. There was a dent under the down tube (no idea how I got it) and it must have developed into a crack...


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## Type 100 (Aug 11, 2014)

Sharing a few more photos of me and my TCX SLR 2. I took inspiration from Toronto Commuter and installed an Axiom Streamliner Disc DLX rack on mine too. On its rear end plate I installed a Cat Eye Reflex Auto reflector/automatic rear light.










I have small waterproof panniers from a company called Vincita, based in Thailand.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

Toronto Commuter said:


> Sad day. I broke my frame last week...Giant didn't replace as they said it wasn't a manufacturing flaw, but they did give me the 'crash replacement' price for a replacement frame. So, I'm upgrading the frame to the TCX SLR 1, with the full carbon fork and through axle. Just have to get the bike rebuilt, change the stem and rebuild the front wheel with a new hub...
> View attachment 929793


That sucks.

How many KM?

Can you weigh the old fork and the new one?

I had my first serious fall on mine (2200km) just yesterday, bent the hanger I think as I had to adjust the RD on the trail to prevent the chain from falling off.


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

About 4200 km. Will try to get weights. Not sure if frame gets returned from Giant. Hope I do get the fork back though. Hope you can get the RD sorted out.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

I think I screwed up.

I bought a Fizik Antares R3 Carbon braided saddle but the rails are oval, and the stock seatpost clamp says 7mm rails only.

*Is there a D-FUSE seatpost/clamp that I can install to run this saddle or am I stuck with the heavier KIUM model? *

I see the top of the line models (DEFY 0 , TCX 0) all use KIUM rails....

Also the SLR2 is Overdrive 1 and not Overdrive 2, and I could have saved myself some $$$ with a cheaper stem as I thought I was limited only to giant models like the OD2 guys are ....


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

P90Puma said:


> I think I screwed up.
> 
> I bought a Fizik Antares R3 Carbon braided saddle but the rails are oval, and the stock seatpost clamp says 7mm rails only.
> 
> ...


So, you can get a 9mm clamp set from giant, my giant LBS got me a set for 20$ CAD, some bikes come with both clamps. (7 and 9)

So my build is finally done...

2014 Giant TCX SLR2 (M)
Stages 6800 Power Meter
Chinese 38mm Carbon Clincher Wheelset
Chinese Carbon handlebar
Chinese Ti Skewers
Continental Gatorskin 700x28
Shimano Ultegra 6750 50/34 crankset
Shimano BB91 bottom bracket
Shimano CX70 Front Mech
Shimano Ultegra 6700 Rear Mech (Short Cage)
Shimano Ultegra 6700 11-28 Cassette
Shimano Dura-Ace 7900 cables
Shimano XT M780 Pedals
Shimano XT RT76 rotors
Giant Contact SLR Carbon Stem
Fizik Antares R3 Carbon Braided Saddle
Fizik 2mm bartape
Fizik BLINK rear light
MEC Dazzle 5 rear light
Shimano CM1000 camera
K-Edge GO BIG gopro mount
ORP Smorn front light
Garmin Fenix 2
Garmin HRM-RUN heart rate strap
Garmin wheel speed sensor (accelerometer based)
Garmin Watch bike mount
Chinese (Flyxii) Carbon Cages x2
Roswheel 6" phone bag / spares bag loaded with tubes/tools.

+ Stock wheelset & tires for offroad.

I did all the work myself, including the bar tape, which I hope isn't too terrible.





















I guess I could get the 6700 shifters but I don't think I will bother.

Pretty much the only things left from the factory are:

frame, fork, seatpost, shifters, brakes...

2200km and counting.

Now time to buy a Giant Propel Advanced Pro 0, and uhhh, just add tribars, and a power meter and a computer and a ... oh no, let's not do this again.


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## Toronto Commuter (Sep 2, 2011)

*TCX SLR Frameset*

So, I replaced the TCX SLR 2 frame that I broke with the TCX SLR Frameset. New frameset came with the 15mm through axle and an OD2 steerer tube, so had to replace the stem as well as get a new front wheel that was 15mm TA. So far bike is quite light and great solid handling. Bike with Clement tires and tubes weighed in at just under 21 lbs. Also replace brakes with TRP HyRds. Fantastic brakes - can't recommend them enough and great value.


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## Type 100 (Aug 11, 2014)

At BGC Cycle Philippines 2014.


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## Walt Brown (Dec 15, 2014)

How is the bike as an endurance gravel bike? I currently have a Giant Escape Hybrid and am looking to upgrade this summer. I've been looking at Specialized Defy (smartweld) and the new GT Grade (carbon). I usually ride in the morning and want to be able to do slight trails on the weekend. Is the geometry ok for longer rides?


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## Max.V (Jan 3, 2015)

Good day to all of you. I have bought my TCX SLR 2 last summer and truly love it, next summer I will be doing "Le tour du Lac Saint-Jean" but for that I require a set of paniers which in turn require a rear bike rack. I have seen that many of you have a rear bike rack but could you please send me your part list and how you installed it please. Thank you!


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Swerny said:


> Just picked this up, will be used mainly as a commuter, also for wet road rides, gravel, and point to point MTB races.
> 
> Size M/L, 19.2 pounds bone stock without pedals.
> 
> ...


19.2lbs sounds really light for a bone stock CX bike at that price point.

I bought a cheap CX bike to screw around on groomed trails and road bike in the bad weather (Felt F65x) and it is a full 2lbs heavier. Looking through the specs they're almost the same bike.

Did you weigh it on the bathroom scale or a legit bike scale?


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## Type 100 (Aug 11, 2014)

Max.V said:


> Good day to all of you. I have bought my TCX SLR 2 last summer and truly love it, next summer I will be doing "Le tour du Lac Saint-Jean" but for that I require a set of paniers which in turn require a rear bike rack. I have seen that many of you have a rear bike rack but could you please send me your part list and how you installed it please. Thank you!


Please back-read. The first few pages of the thread have this information already.

Two of us, myself included, use Axiom's Streamliner Disc DLX rear rack. So far so good


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## Max.V (Jan 3, 2015)

Type 100 said:


> Please back-read. The first few pages of the thread have this information already.
> 
> Two of us, myself included, use Axiom's Streamliner Disc DLX rear rack. So far so good


Thank you for your response, I had read the previous entries but failes to notice that it was already answered as for what the name of the rear rack was. Thank you once again for reposting this information, will be ordering soon!


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

bathroom scale


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## MI-29er (Jun 5, 2009)

Just pick my TCX SLR 2 up today. I'm 6' 1 1/2 34 I seam. The size that fit me the best was a M/L with a 90 mm x 8' in the up position. The bike weighed in with shimano xt pedals and 2 carbon Blackburn water bottle cages at 22.14 lbs. The first ride was a short 10 mile loop. First thing I noticed the seat is a brick, that needs to go. Other than that the bike is great. I will upgrade to the Giant aluminum cx wheelset that uses the giant straight pull hubs with dt internals and spokes. I have the same rims on my anthem advanced 27.5 1 and they are awesome. For the price and what they weight you can't beat them. Plus you can get the interchangeable axle caps for any axle conversion. But so far this cx bike rides very smooth!


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## Type 100 (Aug 11, 2014)

Since replacing my stock chain with a Dura-Ace CN-7901, I've been getting chainsuck on road rides, even on light pedaling loads. As far as I can tell, the stock FSA chainrings aren't that worn as they have only 3300 km on them. 

The only thing I notice that's different is the Dura-Ace chain is a little longer than the old KMC X10 by two or three links.

Any inputs? Should I shorten the chain? Or should I replace the crank with a 50/34T road compact?


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## Type 100 (Aug 11, 2014)

Ended up shortening the chain by two links. No more chain suck.


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

Here's mine in commuter mode

Planet Bike rack
CB Smarty pedals
Vittoria Randonneur Cross 700 x 32c tires


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## DenverPoke (Apr 19, 2011)

Need some help...

I would like to go 1-11 on this bike (2015 model). I'm planning on replacing the 105 11-28 with a Ultegra 32 cassette (Shimano's website says the 105 GS RD should fit a 32...). Thinking of mounting a Race Face Narrow Wide 40T front chain ring. 

Any issues/experience with this? I presume I will need to remove the Crankset in order to remove the inner ring. Is this hard to do? I think there is plenty of life on my BB, so I don't want to damage it. 

Also, any experience/suggestion on Chain type? I was just going to put an Ultegra chain on it. 

I race CX, commute, and tow my daughter with this bike...


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## MI-29er (Jun 5, 2009)

I have switched all my chains to the KMC. KMC X11SL gold will be the next chain I use on my TCX. Getting ready for some upgrades in components and the chain is one of them. Always had nothing but good luck and longevity with the KMC chains.


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## gaffer (Apr 5, 2014)

DenverPoke said:


> Need some help...
> 
> I would like to go 1-11 on this bike (2015 model). I'm planning on replacing the 105 11-28 with a Ultegra 32 cassette (Shimano's website says the 105 GS RD should fit a 32...). Thinking of mounting a Race Face Narrow Wide 40T front chain ring.
> 
> ...


yes the 105 GS Rear Mech will fit a 32T.
You know that there is a 105 level 32T Cassette?

Will be interest to here how you go with 1x11 setup, the though has crossed my mind.


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

anyone done a wheel upgrade to their TCX SLR2?

I have read the set weigh upwards on 2.2 KG. 

I also bought a compact 105 crankset and BB to replace the stock FSA Omega but haven't installed it yet. 

I actually debating selling mine and upgrading to the SLR1...but I just don't see the value in that, the SLR1 new would be double the used price of mine. 

All the carbon models are apparently sold out in Canada for 2015.

Also debating going up to a large for the next bike. My Defy Advanced is a large


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## gaffer (Apr 5, 2014)

Swerny said:


> anyone done a wheel upgrade to their TCX SLR2?
> 
> I have read the set weigh upwards on 2.2 KG.
> 
> ...


yes the stock wheelset do weigh in the region of 2.2kg and is an easy, and noticebale upgrade. choices are more than they were as well with good value in the dtswiss r23 / 24db but there are other good choices.

how are you getting on with the 105 compact? notice any difference?


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

gaffer said:


> yes the stock wheelset do weigh in the region of 2.2kg and is an easy, and noticebale upgrade. choices are more than they were as well with good value in the dtswiss r23 / 24db but there are other good choices.
> 
> how are you getting on with the 105 compact? notice any difference?


Thanks for the suggestion.

I haven't installed it yet....if I sell my road bike, then I'll likely sell my TCX as well and get a better cross/gravel bike to replace them both.

Holding off on the upgrades in the interim.


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## MI-29er (Jun 5, 2009)

I found a smoking deal on ebay and bought the aluminum pxcr-1 take offs from the tcx 1 for $150.00. Swapped the tires, tubes, rotors and cassette over to the new rims.. Shaved off 2.5 lbs. I noticed a huge difference on how the bike rolls.


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

MI-29er said:


> I found a smoking deal on ebay and bought the aluminum pxcr-1 take offs from the tcx 1 for $150.00. Swapped the tires, tubes, rotors and cassette over to the new rims.. Shaved off 2.5 lbs. I noticed a huge difference on how the bike rolls.


that's about a 1 pound weight savings, not 2.5 (if you just swapped everything over).

The SLR2 wheelset weighs 2.2 KG, the P-CXR-1 1750 grams.

Savings of 0.45 KG or 0.99 pounds


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## MI-29er (Jun 5, 2009)

Before we did the swap we used a Park Tools digital scale to weight the before and after. We got a 2.5 lb difference according to the scale.


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

MI-29er said:


> Before we did the swap we used a Park Tools digital scale to weight the before and after. We got a 2.5 lb difference according to the scale.


Then you changed something more than just the wheels to gain 2.5 pounds because the difference in wheelsets alone is only 1 pound (as described in my prior post).

The old wheels weigh 2200 grams....the new ones 1750 grams.

P-CXR1 Alloy Cross WheelSystem (WheelSystems) - Bike Gear | Giant Bicycles | United States

I assure you the stock wheels do not weigh 3330 grams or 7.34 pounds (according to your math)

Nice score on the wheels BTW, a pound of rolling weight is still a big loss.


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## MI-29er (Jun 5, 2009)

Know I'm curious. I will have to weight the two again and see. Either way it's a weight loss.


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## torro (Jun 21, 2015)

Hi from a new 5'9 Giant rider from Norway.

Just got the 2015 TCX SLR 2 in size Small, and as I started CX cycling sport/commuting, I soon realized that I had to do some "equipment sporting". A new Kinesis wheelset at 1550g combined with a set of 700x28c Gatorskin, should make the bike more street-friendly. A very good performance-pricewise combination, and as the 2015 SLR 2 still uses the 9mm QR at the front wheel, they should be easy to fit as well. Although the new wheel combo ended up costing nearly half as much as I gave for the bike itself, as I got it for a reasonable $1070 including S&H.

The Rocket Ron tires does "only" weight 305g according to the online searches, but if the wheelset is close to 700g lighter, plus probably a few grams lighter tires, then the bike should end up weighing around 20 LBS. The biggest weight loss of the bike will (hopefully) be above the saddle anyway...

About the saddle; The Giant Performance saddle is not the most comforting thing I have sat on. Does anyone know if the Fi'Zi:k saddle fits the seatpost without any modifications? I was thinking about getting an Aliante, as that saddle is one of the most comfortable saddle for the 165+ Pounds riders out there without too many miles on two wheels.

A wider Giant Connect SL handlebar at 44 cm, replacing the narrow 40 cm that came with the bike, with a 30g weight save, is ordered. Also a 110mm carbon stem with a 10g weight save, that might be 10mm too long as the new 44 cm handlebar gives 15mm longer reach, is ordered. The carbon SLR handlebars is $250

A compact 50/34 crank is next on the list, and a set of fenders of course. Every "low end" CX bikes should come with 50/34 and fenders as standard if you ask me. The Giant Speedshield Alloy Tour 700C Fender Set should fit the bike perfectly, but I can not find anyone selling those.


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## torro (Jun 21, 2015)

Hi from a new 5'9 Giant rider from Norway.

Just got the 2015 TCX SLR 2 in size Small, and as I started CX cycling sport/commuting, I soon realized that I had to do some "equipment sporting". A new Kinesis wheelset at 1550g combined with a set of 700x28c Gatorskin makes the bike more street-friendly. A very good performance-pricewise combination, and as the 2015 SLR 2 still uses the 9mm QR at the front wheel, they were easy to fit as well. Although the new wheel combo ended up costing nearly half as much as I gave for the bike itself, as I got it for a reasonable $1070 including S&H.

The Rocket Ron tires "only" weight 305g according to the online searches, but the new wheels gave a total weigh save of 900g, and I can probably shave of another 100g if I get lighter inner tubes. The biggest weight loss of the bike will (hopefully) be above the saddle anyway...

About the saddle; The Giant Performance saddle is not the most comforting thing I have sat on. Does anyone know if the Fi'Zi:k saddle fits the seatpost without any modifications? I was thinking about getting an Aliante, as that saddle is one of the most comfortable saddle for the 165+ Pounds riders out there without too many miles on two wheels.

A wider Connect SL handlebar, and a longer stem are also ordered. The bike came with a FSA Grossarmer Pro BB386, but as the RD is short and limited til 28T, a 34T chain-gear is ordered as well. The Giant Speedshield Alloy Tour 700C Fender Set should fit the bike perfectly, but I can not find anyone selling those.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

I'm up to 4000km on my TCX SLR 2. 

Been to California on it, 70km road/cross race, 70 km charity ride, 186km ride for fun, very happy with it.

Taking it to the swiss alps in August!


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## nickcube (Jul 25, 2012)

How are you finding the Kinesis wheels torro?


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## Type 100 (Aug 11, 2014)

I'm currently at 5900 km on my TCX SLR 2 - in that span of time I've frayed out my rear shift cable twice.

After 13 months of mostly road riding I finally went to a trail center with it. Out went the roadgoing commuter parts, and back went the stock Schwalbe Super Swan tires at 60 psi. This was my first trail ride and I'm happy to say the bike was much more capable than I was. Nothing broke except for a tired old plastic bottle cage.










I've also just replaced the stock saddle with a Selle SMP Hell, and put on Fizik 3mm bar tape.


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

glad to see this thread is still going. 

I actually sold my bike last month, hoping to upgrade to a 2016 carbon model...I'm waitiing to see the specs.


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

I upgraded to an almost brand new, 2014 TCX SLR1. 

I should have bought that bike from the start!

Loving the SRAM shifters and the hydro brakes. Seems a fair bit lighter as well.


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

Looks like the new (MY '16) TCX pro is double thru axle.

142x12 in the rear.

TCX Advanced Pro 2 (2016) | Giant Bicycles | United States


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## Type 100 (Aug 11, 2014)

P90Puma said:


> Looks like the new (MY '16) TCX pro is double thru axle.
> 
> 142x12 in the rear.
> 
> TCX Advanced Pro 2 (2016) | Giant Bicycles | United States


I'm looking at the 2016 TCX SLR 2 model.

The FSA Omega crank, and its "proprietary" 19mm spindle and bottom bracket, seems to be making a return after one year on the slightly better Gossamer unit. They also seem to have downsized the rotors to 140mm and switched over to 33mm Maxxis rubber.

Otherwise the frame doesn't seem to have changed much over our bikes.

Interesting that Giant US seem to have discontinued the TCX SLR 1.


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## MI-29er (Jun 5, 2009)

Since I bought mine I have done some upgrades. I should have bought the carbon version but at the time money was the killer. So I have upgraded to carbon Thomson road bars, Sram force fd, rd, cassette, force crank, and Sram red hydraulic brakes/shifters, KMC X11SL Ti nitride chain, ESI red bar tape. And a WTB rocket V saddle w/ti rails. This thing is a rocket on the gravel and on the road.


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## TJay74 (Sep 26, 2012)

I've had my 2015 Giant TCX SL1 since January of this year, bought it to get into CX racing. Then almost sold it to buy a CF HT MTB, but one of the local guys talked me into keeping it.

So far all I have done is 3T Ergonova bars, Lizard skin bar tape, tubeless conversion, my saddle (Bontrager Affinity RXL carbon) and for a size M bike I came in at 18lbs 8ozs. I have a 40T Raceface N/W ring on order and will be swapping over to 1x11 this week, should help pull another .5-1lbs off of the bike. Next up will be either a set of carbon wheels or some Stans Iron Cross elite wheels, either way I should be able to from the stock 1650g wheels to something in the low 1400g range for another .5lbs weight loss.

Should make for a nice 17lbs CX bike for this season, hoping to try and make a couple of races depending on the weather.


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## V8Interceptor (Aug 24, 2014)

Walt Brown said:


> How is the bike as an endurance gravel bike? I currently have a Giant Escape Hybrid and am looking to upgrade this summer. I've been looking at Specialized Defy (smartweld) and the new GT Grade (carbon). I usually ride in the morning and want to be able to do slight trails on the weekend. Is the geometry ok for longer rides?


I was actually wondering the same thing. I rode the Anyroad 2, and didn't like it too much. Does the TCX make for a good endurance gravel bike?


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## starter (Aug 25, 2009)

Not to be the sole buzzkill that breaks up the love-fest here, but a few things things should be mentioned to anyone considering this bike... Things I managed to figure out through insinuations here and other places, but as far as I can tell, have never really been stated clearly. 

This bike might be fantastic as a complete, but as a frameset, it's a nightmare. Proprietary seatpost. Sold one place, overseas, or ordered direct through your LBS, for which you will pay as if it's a Thomson masterpiece, not a decent piece of OEM kit. Proprietary headset. Proprietary stem, which is ridiculous. The only person who benefits from a 1 1/4" stem is the guy selling them to a captive market. 

Again, I'm sure these bikes are fantastic when bought as a complete. But if you're a guy who builds his bikes, and has a favorite cockpit setup... Pass. You won't be able to use them. And sourcing the stuff you can use SUCKS. Beyond the headset which shows up on eBay, everything else is full MSRP, and a two week wait (or more) for your dealer to get it. I know, that was my afternoon. Rather than play ball, I'm just returning the frameset. I'll be on a CAADX or a Crux, thanks very much.


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## gaffer (Apr 5, 2014)

a small defence, of (perhaps understandable criticisms).

proprietary seatpost. yes this is a little annoying, surprised it didn't come with frameset - the 2014 TCX and 2015+ Defy Range came with the SL version which is only 211 grams (including clamp) ... which is not really that bad (i would suggest good) - and i would imagine if it cracked Giant would look fairly kindly on you. don't know RRP though.

1 1/4 stem, plenty available for relatively cheap on ebay (of various angles). 
and this steer width only applies to SLR1 and above. headset? meh who cares - replacement bearings are ~$12 whichever size.

these are all minor compared with Specialized disc brake SCS system that means you can only use their proprietary wheels (Crux, some models offer alt D Hanger) .


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## starter (Aug 25, 2009)

I'm looking at spending $50 on a stem, $40 on a headset, $10 on spacers, and maybe $100 on the seatpost, but the dealer thinks closer to $150-$175. 

That's nearly $300 on stuff I could scrabble for $75 for the vast majority of other bikes... And here's what gets me... None of it is necessary. There's not one study that shows the 1 1/4" upper steerer standard is appreciably stiffer or offers more control than the 1 1/8" standard. And while the D-Fuse is supposed to be comfortable, so is the Syntace P6, Ritchey Link, and Ergon CF3. They all manage to fit in standard clamps. And the CF3 is in two different pieces, for God's sake.

I've been around cycling long enough to not get too riled up by the whole musical chairs of new and pointless standards game... It's stupid, but part of the world. However this bike just manages to revel in it more than most. If pointless new standards are the terrible infotainment blurbs of the bike world, the TCX SLR is Miley Cyrus sticking her tongue out while twerking and sending a selfie via instagram with a hash-tag referencing a feud with one of the Jenners, all at the same time. 

Again, as a complete, I'm sure it's awesome. But if you like to build your bikes from the frame up... Run. Run and don't look back.


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## Anoobis (Sep 26, 2008)

So my non-drive side bearings died fairly dramatically and the whole BB/cranks thing seems to be a nightmare? I read 6804 on the bearings, bought new 6804 bearings to find that the ID is different?!

Can someone confirm that 50/34T tiagra crankset (hollowtech II) with a Shimano BB91 will replace the FSA cups in the frame at the moment? If so then I may consider a hope PF41 BB.


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## MI-29er (Jun 5, 2009)

Yes the seat post deal sucks but for everything else no one problem. Just like the above posts, just replace your upper and lower head set bearings and your good to go. You will have to buy a new fork but if you shop around they are a dime a dozen. Also there are other mfgs.that make aftermarket od2 stems.


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## TJay74 (Sep 26, 2012)

Anoobis said:


> So my non-drive side bearings died fairly dramatically and the whole BB/cranks thing seems to be a nightmare? I read 6804 on the bearings, bought new 6804 bearings to find that the ID is different?!
> 
> Can someone confirm that 50/34T tiagra crankset (hollowtech II) with a Shimano BB91 will replace the FSA cups in the frame at the moment? If so then I may consider a hope PF41 BB.


Similar story but on road bike, my wifes non-drive side breaing was DOA on her Trek Domane 4.3. I pulled the seals on the bearing once I had it out, seems it made it out of the bearing factory with no grease in it.

My plan is after any major wet/muddy cross races to wash the bike and then remove the cranks and pull the seals on the BB bearings. Then flush the bearing out and replace with some synthetic bearing grease.


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## starter (Aug 25, 2009)

So despite my initial frustration at the several (in my opinion) pointlessly proprietary standards, I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a new 2015 TCX SLR 2, because A. the price was right, and B. I figured I'd basically strip it and use the stock components to build my girlfriend a bike.

Overall, I'm pleased with how the bike turned out, but I have to say, I'm having a very hard time believing these claims of 18-19 pounds out of the box... Reason being that my quite pricey ultra-light build using a medium sized TCX SLR 2 frameset as the base has turned out to be a fairly porky 18.5 pound bike...

The build:

TCX SLR 2 frameset
Rival 1 right shifter / left brake (used Rival here because it's just 4g heavier than the Force shifter/brake)
Rotor 3D30 crankset
Rotor ultralight BB86 bearings
KMC XLSL chain
Rival 1 long cage rear derailleur (used Rival here because it's just 8g heavier than the Force RD)
XX1 10-42 cassette (only 267g vs the Force 10-42 cassette at 315g)
TRP Spyre brakes
Velocity Major Tom tubular wheelset
Ashima Ai2 rotors
Vittoria EVO XM front, XN rear
D-Fuse seatpost
Ergon SRX3 Pro Carbon saddle
Enve stem 90mm
Enve compact bar 44
Lizard Skins wrap
Crank Bros stainless eggbeaters with aftermarket ti spindles

So with the exception of the saddle (185g) and the Lizard Skins wrap (76g) everything is super light on the bike... The addition of the Rotor cranks, KMC ultralight chain and XX1 cassette makes the 1x11 groupset nearly half a pound lighter than standard Force CX1, for instance... Plus all the other sexy lightweight bits... Yet the bike is still 18.5 lbs.

Just due to how I built up the bike, I had the opportunity to weigh every part but the frameset... And I weighed everything, from the tubular tape strips to the cables. Bottom line, even if the fork is coming in at 650g cut (and there's no way it is) and the headset/bolt/expander/topcap weighs 175g (generous) the frame still has to be around 1550g - 1600g for that 18.5 pound figure to add up. Or nearly a pound heavier than the sub-1200g frame weight I was expecting based on the literature...

Pretty disappointing, considering on most competitors framesets, I'd be looking at a 17.5 to high 16's build... But hey, the bike does ride great. 

I'd be really interested to see some scale pics in the 18-19 pound range of a TCX SLR 2 stock... Mine was insanely heavy stock... Maybe 25 pounds. For instance I can verify that just with wheels, tires, and rotors I lost a verified four pounds. I pulled a 390g (nearly a pound) tube out of the rear tire, for instance. Heaviest tube I've ever seen. Guess they didn't want anybody flatting, ha ha. And the Super Swans may have the same tread pattern as Rocket Rons, but they are wire bead tires... Mine weighed around 430g a tire. 

Ah well. Still a really nice riding bike. But definitely confused about Giant's decision to push these fairy tales about super light frame weight... So they built something heavy, around the same weight as the Specialized Crux aluminum disc... Who cares, own it. It rides nice, after all. And weight weenies will always find out the truth, lol...


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## gaffer (Apr 5, 2014)

i weighted my small TCX SLR 2.

Fork = 650g is with star nut.
Frame = 1485g with hanger and FSA 19mm BB installed.

What are your hubs on the Major Toms?


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## starter (Aug 25, 2009)

gaffer said:


> i weighted my small TCX SLR 2.
> 
> Fork = 650g is with star nut.
> Frame = 1485g with hanger and FSA 19mm BB installed.
> ...


Oof, this _is_ a heavy fork. So figure what, around 1400g to 1390g without the BB? Guess my medium could be 150g heavier... Damn heavy for a modern alloy frame, at any rate, especially a relatively new one. And I swear I saw an official blurb from Giant talking about how the Aluxx 6011A TCX SLR frame was sub-1200g. Of course I can't find it now. Typical, ha ha. Ah, well. First-world problems, yo.

It's the complete wheelset from Velocity, standard QR (non-convertible) front hub... So that's the ATB convertible rear hub and the ATB lightweight front hub... They are the Pro's, not the Comps, btw. Just means they're built with Sapim CXRay spokes instead of DT Swiss Competition.

EDIT: Boom, full-on lie by Giant about the Aluxx TCX SLR frame weight...Sub-1200g... Yeah... If you add a pound, lol. 
Showcase: 2016 TCX SLR - Giant Bicycles | United States


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## DevinciSean (Sep 6, 2007)

I would think twice about that CAADX


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## HTfan (Sep 16, 2015)

My medium TCX 2 carbon is 20lbs. stock out of the box. I have no idea how yalls are 1 to 2lbs. lighter stock out of the box then a carbon frame. shimano 105 and super swan tires.


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## DevinciSean (Sep 6, 2007)

Can you post some pics, that sounds like an awesome build!


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## starter (Aug 25, 2009)

DevinciSean said:


> Can you post some pics, that sounds like an awesome build!


Sure...


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## DevinciSean (Sep 6, 2007)

How much weight did you save going to the Rotor crank?


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## starter (Aug 25, 2009)

DevinciSean said:


> How much weight did you save going to the Rotor crank?


About 78g with the crank and another 30g with the BB. So roughly 108g...


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## Type 100 (Aug 11, 2014)

Just a quick question. 

Have you guys ever tried to put your bikes on a workstand? Where do you clamp it: on the seatpost or on the top tube?


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## MI-29er (Jun 5, 2009)

I always use my seat tube.


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## DevinciSean (Sep 6, 2007)

Can anyone confirm the axle sizes on the 2015 TCX SLR 2?


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## P90Puma (Apr 29, 2014)

DevinciSean said:


> Can anyone confirm the axle sizes on the 2015 TCX SLR 2?


Looks to be QR still MY16' , saw one hanging in the giant store over the weekend.


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## Type 100 (Aug 11, 2014)

After 18 months on the stock FSA Omega crank, I finally swapped it out for a Shimano 105 FC-5750 compact. Out went the stock bottom bracket and in went Shimano's SM-BB91-41B.














I've also installed a Token chain catcher and gone clipless with Deore XT T780 pedals, which are SPD on one side and flat on the other.


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

I'm thinking of changing the stock crank on my 2014 TCX SLR1, but it's an FSA Gossamer EVO386 unit. 

Trying to figure out what's compatible. 

Anyone know if the Shimano crank and BB91 will drop right in? I would assume so right?

What about the Shimano BB with a Force or Red GXP crankset? I ask since my bike comes with a SRAM groupo


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## dr. locktopus (Jun 8, 2010)

I have a TCX SLR Frameset (XL, ano black, + 15 mm TA fork). The frame comes in at 1369 grams (with derailleur hanger, seat post clamp, FD bracket and cage bolts) and the fork comes in at 425 grams.

Running fresh cables is really getting to me. I can't get the RD cable housing through the hole in the back of the chain stay.


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## Type 100 (Aug 11, 2014)

Swerny said:


> I'm thinking of changing the stock crank on my 2014 TCX SLR1, but it's an FSA Gossamer EVO386 unit.
> 
> Trying to figure out what's compatible.
> 
> ...


Shimano press-fit bottom brackets like the SM-BB91-41B and the SM-BB71-41B will fit. They're technically BB86.

For a GXP crank you'll need a BB86 GXP bottom bracket. Shimano's stuff won't work because GXP crank spindles aren't a constant 24mm diameter like Shimano's cranks are. GXP steps down to 22mm on the non-drive side.



dr. locktopus said:


> I have a TCX SLR Frameset (XL, ano black, + 15 mm TA fork). The frame comes in at 1369 grams (with derailleur hanger, seat post clamp, FD bracket and cage bolts) and the fork comes in at 425 grams.
> 
> Running fresh cables is really getting to me. I can't get the RD cable housing through the hole in the back of the chain stay.


You don't need to run cable housing for the RD internally all the way through the chainstay. Once you're past the bottom bracket, all the cable housing you need is the little piece from dropout to RD.










Giant actually uses an internal liner inside the TCX's drive-side chainstay to route the inner RD cable. You can pull it out from the dropout area (in the photo it's the round bit containing the cable; it "seats" in there like an outer cable in a cable stop), but I don't recommend it because it can be tough to get the internal liner to seat in its internal hook around the bottom bracket area.

The best way of routing RD inner cable through the drive-side chainstay and its internal liner is with a powerful flashlight - I used my Cat Eye Volt 1200. Lie down under the bottom bracket shell, with the rubber grommet for the RD cable removed, then look through the opening. You'll be able to see the end of the internal liner from there. It's a little fiddly but not impossible. I managed to do it on my own.


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## DevinciSean (Sep 6, 2007)

Hey guys, quick video of some DT Swiss R32 Spline DB's on my TCX. I made a lot of changes over the winter, I'll post some thoughts once I have some decent ride time on it this year.


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## DevinciSean (Sep 6, 2007)

*Here's a pic*

Still waiting for my XD Driver to make it 10 - 42.


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## Vecky (Jun 23, 2016)

hi, i'm from Indonesia, thanks for kind sharing from everyone here.

is there anyone experience TCX SLR 2 2016 ? mind to share a bit here? perhaps anyone who has done some modification on it too

i'm 5'9 and on my plan to get 1 for size S, still waiting for the stock coming.


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

I forgot about my thread.

A month or so ago, I changed the stock crank on my SLR1 to the same one with compact rings (50/34). I prefer the gear range this way.

New chain and Candy pedals as well.

Tires are now Challenge Gravel Grinders which suit my needs well.

Still thoroughly enjoying the bike


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## caseonline (Aug 5, 2014)

starter said:


> ...
> TCX SLR 2 frameset
> Rival 1 right shifter / left brake (used Rival here because it's just 4g heavier than the Force shifter/brake)
> Rotor 3D30 crankset
> ...


May I ask what chainring you used for your build?

I have a Rotor 3D24 w/ Power2Max Type S power meter and an 38T SRAM XSync chainring on my TCS SLR. I would like to go up to 42T or even 44T, but I guess the clearance between chainring and chainstay would not be sufficient.

Thanks!
Marc


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## MankyManning (Aug 11, 2014)

Type 100 said:


> After 18 months on the stock FSA Omega crank, I finally swapped it out for a Shimano 105 FC-5750 compact. Out went the stock bottom bracket and in went Shimano's SM-BB91-41B.
> View attachment 1031253
> View attachment 1031254
> 
> ...


Hi - can you tell me what mudguards you are using and how you managed to fit them given the lack of anchor points?


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## crankinstein (Mar 5, 2009)

Reviving this old thread from the depths as I have just recently purchased a 2014 TCX SLR1.

I bought an M/L, am 5'11" with a 32" inseam and am stoked to not have to instantly change the drive train. Anything Shimano is always the first to be removed form any bike I own, and I'm loving the SRAM hydraulic brakes. Aside from a slightly shorter stem which is already OTW, I don't really plan on changing too much.

I do, however, plan to add a rack and fenders in the Fall, mostly so I don't throw too much debris at my little guy in the trailer.

Recently added lights and a bell:


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