# Is a Trek worth it?



## seakoala (Nov 7, 2016)

I'm starting to save up to replace my Nishiki Colorado 29er from DSG with a hardtail of a little more quality. However, since I want to go down in wheel size to 27.5", I have two options in my area: Kona or Trek (the selection of Specialized bikes is super cheap).
The Big Honzo, while super cool, is $1500. I'm a broke college student - while I can get it by working my a$$ off and not eating for like, a month (lol) if I can find a bike within the $800-$1200 range I can afford pedals/protection/upgrades along with the bike itself. 

That's where Trek comes in - my LBS has a much bigger selection of Trek bikes within that range, but is it gonna be worth my money? The trails in my area aren't that gnarly - we've got some dirt jumps and minor downhill tracks, but mostly technical CC/enduro type. I basically want something that can put up with decent abuse for the rest of my college career and I can do basic maintenance on myself. Can I save a couple hundred bucks to allocate into better parts/protection by going Trek, or should I go all for nothing on the Kona?


----------



## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

How's the used market in your area?


----------



## Surveyor 777 (May 12, 2015)

Maybe a stupid question but for your size (bike size), can you get a Trek w/27.5" wheels? I have a Trek hardtail but I was forced to have 29" wheels because that model had the "smart wheel size" where my frame size only came w/29's - the smaller frame sizes could get 27.5's.

Maybe some Trek's don't have this restriction, but that was what happened w/me.


----------



## JoePAz (May 7, 2012)

Trek makes plenty of nice bikes and also cheaper bikes. Until you get to the actual models and builds one each bike it hard to say Kona or Trek is better. If you supply bike 1 vs bike 2 with full specs then we might be able to make a call. In the end it will come down to component spec and fork. I suspect both frames will pretty similar overall.

BTW... used is good too. I bought a used carbon HT for not much money. This was a 23lbs race bike with XTR components, fox fork and stans crest wheels. probably 4-5K new and I paid a fraction of that used.


----------



## FJSnoozer (Mar 3, 2015)

No, the Trek Hardtails in the price range are not "worth it" IMO. Unless you are getting a steal on a stache 5. Are you financing? Is that why you are buying new?

You should seriously consider a High value used bike at the 500 dollar price point that you can upkeep/upgrade as parts wear out.


----------



## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

One thing to keep in mind is warranty.

Used bikes have none. 
My brother has purchased a lot of bikes used, and has never had a major enough of a problem that it wrecked his purchase. He's had some things that "should" have been under warranty, but the cost to repair/replace the part was not a big deal.

Myself, of 8 bikes I've owned, I have needed to use the warranty on 7 of them. Four broken frames, two "paint warranty", one multiple suspension warranty repairs. 
Without a warranty, I would have been having some bad days.


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Trek is a good bike brand. I prefer Kona, but that could just be the marketing. No matter what, no specialized full suspensions. Crazy proprietary linkage that they phase out after a couple years. Get a hardtail with a good fork.


----------



## seakoala (Nov 7, 2016)

Not even considering Sepcialized because the only bikes offered are $500 or $3000. 

I'm buying new because, while my LBS has 29'er fever (probably because of the market in my area, no biggie) they are really knowledgeable at sizing bikes and setting up new riders (which, no matter which way I view it, I am still one). I've used the warranty on my Colorado twice, so I'll definitely want to get one on my new bike.

So I did a little research, and here are the 27.5"s I'm looking into:

Kona Big Honzo - $1600
Trek Superfly - $1500
Trek X-Caliber - $1000
Trek Cali Womens - $900
Trek Skye SLX - $1100
(frame size will likely be M, maybe S)
Most of the frames either don't come with pedals or crappy pedals, so throw in another $150 for those, and I need new pads/helmet.

And like I said before, this is more of a stepping stone bike. Hopefully by the time I'm a senior/graduate in a couple years I'll either have enough for a nice bike or have quit the sport (I'm hoping for the first).


----------



## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

FWIW - no need to spend anywhere near $150 on pedals.


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

And some of those bikes would be good "end game" bikes. IMO, anything with an air fork and a reliable drivetrain is a good bike. Will it be as nice as a $7000 full suspension that weights 21lbs? probably not. Will it still be fun as hell to ride on? definitely. Huge jump between the $500 one's you've been avoiding and something with a rockshox recon or a Manitou M30 fork. Get a bike with an air fork, and most of the other OEM arts will fall in place along with it.


----------



## katsup (Jun 28, 2016)

I have the Trek X-Caliber 9 and I do love the bike with no intentions to replace it. However, if I was buying new today, I would definitely get a hardtail that could run plus size tires. By the way, I think the Trek Stache is in the same class as the Kona Big Honzo.

Why not move the pedals from your current bike to your new and sell your old bike with the demo pedals?


----------



## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

seakoala said:


> So I did a little research, and here are the 27.5"s I'm looking into:
> 
> Kona Big Honzo - $1600
> Trek Superfly - $1500
> ...


Obviously, you're gonna get some better components on the higher priced rigs, but aside from that, are you able to throw a leg over all of these at the shop for a little test ride? (You mentioned they were good at fitting bikes, so I imagine they'd adjust it properly for you to test, which is important of course.) Sometimes certain bikes just feel 'righter' than others, for whatever reason. A little test session can likely help you narrow things down just based on how well the bike's bits come together to make it feel fun to ride, or not so much. 

Also, just because the shop might not have a big Specialized range on hand, if they're a dealer, they can get something in for you. The Ruze Comp 6fatty is pretty sweet ~1500.

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/trail/ruzecomp6fattie/107253


----------



## seakoala (Nov 7, 2016)

katsup said:


> I have the Trek X-Caliber 9 and I do love the bike with no intentions to replace it. However, if I was buying new today, I would definitely get a hardtail that could run plus size tires. By the way, I think the Trek Stache is in the same class as the Kona Big Honzo.
> 
> Why not move the pedals from your current bike to your new and sell your old bike with the demo pedals?


I have a bike from Diks (theyll censor it out if i spell it right) Sporting Goods- those pedals are absolute trash 😂


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

ah, thought you already got new pedals for the Nishiki. Those stock pedals really are bad. The stock pedals on your new bike would go on the Nishiki fine though when you get good pedals. VP Vice, Origin8 Ultim8, or Raceface Chester for simple good quality pedals at ~ $50 price.


----------



## seakoala (Nov 7, 2016)

That is, if I can ever get the stock pedals off, haha. That's been my biggest issue - my Nishiki is a decent ride, but it's a pain to tinker with for even the simplest of maintenance projects. Can't get my pedals or bottom bracket to budge, and I had to work with about 5 different tools for an hour or two just to unscrew the bolts on my seatpost. 

That's really why I want to try and shy away from the big-box bikes. I know Trek has specific components that require an "authorized" dealer to repair/replace, but if it gets me going to my LBS and interacting with other bikers, I'm cool with that. But I should be able to make simple adjustments/cleaning without having to take a whole day and engineer a bunch of different tools to do it. Luckliy I haven't had anything bad happen to the bike trailside (besides my stem coming loose after a crash), but not being able to remove my wheels easily is just one of the many concerns that's pushing me to get a better bike.

And thanks for the pedal recommendations - I've only looked into those new Crampon pedals, which shows I still have much to learn about biking, haha


----------



## brent701 (Sep 17, 2012)

seakoala said:


> Not even considering Sepcialized because the only bikes offered are $500 or $3000.
> 
> I'm buying new because, while my LBS has 29'er fever (probably because of the market in my area, no biggie) they are really knowledgeable at sizing bikes and setting up new riders (which, no matter which way I view it, I am still one). I've used the warranty on my Colorado twice, so I'll definitely want to get one on my new bike.
> 
> ...


Looking at that list. 
I wouldn't get any of them. 
I'd save a little more. about 50 bucks and buy a Stache 5. 
Only reason you are getting a 27.5 seems to be the size of the bike.

The current Superfly is a boost front/non boost rear wheel setup. It's dumb. 
X-Caliber is a ok bike. Has a non tappered steer tube.. The Cali/Skye are not meant for hard riding. my 9 year old killed a fork on his Skye we bought him. along with a few other things

Best part with Trek is the lifetime frame warranty on 95% of their bikes. 
I'd get the Stache personally. 3" tires are FUN you can also drop down to 27.5+ on it

so it being "worth it" is really up to you. 
my Procal 9.9 SL was not "worth it" and I own/owned 18 Treks


----------



## FJSnoozer (Mar 3, 2015)

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/trail/fuse-comp-6fattie/115664

you should also talk to your specialized dealer about this bike.


----------



## seakoala (Nov 7, 2016)

I see what some of y'all are talking about, not being able to get 27.5" wheels due to frame size. Pretty positive I'm a 17.5" frame so it's gonna be 29" for me. Darn :/

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

seakoala said:


> That is, if I can ever get the stock pedals off, haha. That's been my biggest issue - my Nishiki is a decent ride, but it's a pain to tinker with for even the simplest of maintenance projects. Can't get my pedals or bottom bracket to budge, and I had to work with about 5 different tools for an hour or two just to unscrew the bolts on my seatpost.


The Nishiki should be just as easy to work on as any other LBS bike. Pretty standard components. Just have to remember the left pedal is reverse thread, and the right bottom bracket cup is reverse thread. After that, put on a good pedal wrench and smack it with a hammer. Put on the bottom bracket tool and stand on the wrench. As long as you're going the right direction to untighten it and the tool is attached properly, shouldn't have a problem with a little extra power behind removing parts.


----------



## BobbyLight350z (Feb 1, 2016)

The advantage with Trek is they have a 12 month no interest financing plan. So perhaps you could bump up your budget a tad and get into a higher price range.

If you can spend 1200, I really like the Commencal HT's. Has a yari fork.
COMMENCAL 2016 | META HT AM ESSENTIAL 650B ROCKSHOX YELLOW 2016

On-one is also killer bang for the buck at around 1200. They ship to the US. This one has a sram GX 1x11 drivetrain and a revelation fork. 
On-One Parkwood 27.5 Sram GX1 Mountain Bike | On - One


----------



## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

delete


----------



## brent701 (Sep 17, 2012)

Salsa Timberjack 1400


----------



## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

bob13bob said:


> You can get a better non LBS bike for hte same amount with patience.
> .
> here's my writeup advce on it and the divisive debate I had with people afterwards.
> http://forums.mtbr.com/recycle-bin/...ople-looking-buy-bikes-get-sport-1032563.html
> ...


Omg not this again. Not sure why you have such a hatred for LBS. Ya you got lucky and got a one off deal. But you went crazy over it.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


----------



## seakoala (Nov 7, 2016)

Okay, new gameplan: since my bike is yet again out of commission and I can't ride this weekend, I'm gonna swing by my LBS and scope out a bike I like from a fresh slate. I'll just talk to them about what I'm interested in, my budget and stuff and see if I can find something to shoot for, keeping the Treks (and that sweet financing) in the back of my mind. Maybe I'll still demo the Kona or another bike - thank y'all for your help! 👍

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk


----------



## Lawson Raider (Jul 24, 2006)

I have owned bikes from Trek, Specialized, and Yeti - My order of preference is Yeti, Specialized, Trek. Not saying Trek is a bad bike - just my experience is Yeti and Specialized were better bikes. Everyone's opinion may vary.


----------



## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

RAKC Ind said:


> Omg not this again. Not sure why you have such a hatred for LBS. Ya you got lucky and got a one off deal. But you went crazy over it.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


dont' have a hatred for LBS. But just arguing that if beginners can get a much better bike and ride with patience, by not buying a LBS bike. I also backed up all my statements. Unless you think a LBS bike with an XCT will ride better than a Diamondback with a Reba, then you agree with me. No need to reargue the same points and copy-paste in ever post, which is why I just made one place where it's argued out and people can decided for themselves. Unfortunately the moderators decided to lock the thread (but i feel fortunate it can still be accessed).

LBS is a place you can get your bike fixed.


----------



## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Lawson Raider said:


> I have owned bikes from Trek, Specialized, and Yeti - My order of preference is Yeti, Specialized, Trek. Not saying Trek is a bad bike - just my experience is Yeti and Specialized were better bikes. Everyone's opinion may vary.


In my experience, I think many companies make bikes that might be an excellent choice for different people in different situations. There are a number of ways for beginners to get onto a suitable bike to get going in the sport. I try not to let absolutes paint me into a corner. . . . most of the time ;~)



bob13bob said:


> dont' have a hatred for LBS. But just arguing that if beginners can get a much better bike and ride with patience not buying an LBS bike. I also backed up all my statements. Unless you think and LBS bike with an XCT will ride better than a Diamondback with a Reba, then you agree with me. No need to reargue the same points and copy-paste in ever post, which is why I just made one place where it's argued out and people can decided for themselves. Unfortunately the moderators decided to lock the thread (but i feel fortunate it can still be accessed).
> 
> LBS is a place you can get your bike fixed.


That thread was a s**t show from the get-go. I am also glad it is still accessible for people to read and make up their own minds.

Shopping for a bike with price being your top priority is a good way to end up with a good deal on something that isn't really what suits you best. The LBS isn't necessarily always the best route either, but I would advise new riders to keep an open mind, and get help from a knowledgeable trusted friend if at all possible.


----------



## seakoala (Nov 7, 2016)

bob13bob said:


> dont' have a hatred for LBS. But just arguing that if beginners can get a much better bike and ride with patience not buying an LBS bike. I also backed up all my statements. Unless you think and LBS bike with an XCT will ride better than a Diamondback with a Reba, then you agree with me. No need to reargue the same points and copy-paste in ever post, which is why I just made one place where it's argued out and people can decided for themselves. Unfortunately the moderators decided to lock the thread (but i feel fortunate it can still be accessed).
> 
> LBS is a place you can get your bike fixed.


But a lot of beginning riders (like me), no matter how much research we do, still need help picking out the right rig for their style of riding and within their own financial limits. That's where LBS guys are handy - I'll pay more to get some good advice for setting myself up for an awesome ride, and I can introduce myself to more local riders for help in the future. 
Also, all that research and negotiating and everything that comes with trying to get a good used rig cuts into my ride time for maybe $100 on average in savings. Not worth it in my book.

Interacting with other humans and experts in person is a good thing. You should do more of it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk


----------



## FJSnoozer (Mar 3, 2015)

I've gotten horrible advice from LBS employees and Great advice. I prefer to talk to the mechanics that shred vs the sales people to get the scoop. 

Some if not many of the sales people don't even ride mountain bike terrain or aren't good riders. And their ability to fit bikes is questionable. 

In my experience, you will get the best guidance by collecting many opinions and wading through them to make your decision. Especially the opinions of those that ride your local trails. Getting opinions from people across the country with very different terrain requirements will get you some very passionate opinions. 

If you take any advice, it would be to get the bike with the best AIR Fork that you can afford.


----------



## brent701 (Sep 17, 2012)

Go demo some bikes. 
Try not to stick to one brand. 
I owned a Specialized as my 1st bike. Was a Carve, It worked. It was fast. 
Met the Trek store, got a Trek card. It went down hill from there. 15 Treks later, lol 
I own a Niner RKT 9 RDO. It took the place of a Top Fuel I almost bought. Niner felt better to me and I felt faster. ( times shows also) 
my next bike was gonna be a Fuel EX 9.8 P1 color. I will end up going with a Intense Primer 

Go ride as many bikes as you can if they have demo bikes. 
I give my money to LBS over online, Yes I pay a little more. But when I need help ASAP I get it from the LBS's not online. 

Getting a bike online isn't a bad thing. Some damn good deals out there. but in the end. the LBS is what keeps you moving unless you know everything about the bike and have the tools to fix them. 

good luck.


----------



## lazarus2405 (Jul 16, 2011)

FJSnoozer said:


> I've gotten horrible advice from LBS employees and Great advice. I prefer to talk to the mechanics that shred vs the sales people to get the scoop.
> 
> Some if not many of the sales people don't even ride mountain bike terrain or aren't good riders. And their ability to fit bikes is questionable.


This is rather good advice. It was consistently true in the shops I'd worked in and in the various shops my friends and riding buddies worked in.



> If you take any advice, it would be to get the bike with the best AIR Fork that you can afford.


Again, this. The quality of the fork is the single most important factor in how a lower-end bike will perform, how comfortable you be, and how much control you'll have. I'll add, at minimum get *an air-sprung fork with rebound adjustment*. Anything else is junk that you can't set up properly for your weight.


----------



## Highland (Jun 24, 2013)

I own 5 Treks.... 2 road bikes and 3 mountain bikes. I like the LBS support and warranty I get through a Trek dealer.


----------



## Evenhanded (Mar 14, 2017)

I feel like Treks ride well and look good but that they are always going to have lower end components than other bikes at the same price.


----------



## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

delete


----------



## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

seakoala said:


> That's where LBS guys are handy - I'll pay more to get some good advice for setting myself up for an awesome ride, and I can introduce myself to more local riders for help in the future.
> Also, all that research and negotiating and everything that comes with trying to get a good used rig cuts into my ride time for maybe $100 on average in savings. Not worth it in my book.
> 
> Interacting with other humans and experts in person is a good thing. You should do more of it.
> ...


 i'm not talking $100 savings. I'm talking about double the price. Your statement is an ignorant one.

I dont' consider myself and expert, my i'm more knowledgeable and ahve more hands on experience than 95% of the people out there on the trails. I don't have a profit motive to sell you anything, i don't have click through referral fees (unlike mtbr) I do this because it's my way of paying it forward and helping the community. Also, the advice permeating this sub was just outdated and bad = buy a used bike. I used to advocated the same thing in here, but times have changed.

I'm also frustrated wrenching garbage low tier LBS and used bikes running for the people I ambassador to this sport. I just had a guy last weekend who showed up with a "top of hte line" 90s full suspension rig that I could do little for, he bought it for $200, too bad he didn't talk to me first.
The biggest challenge to this sport growing is newbies coming in with limited budgets. I try them to get the best experience with that budget.

If you want to really find the experts, go the racing sub where the big posters have built, tried and collected data multiple money-no-object bikes. one is a Sig Other of pro racers. There is a stark difference between what people say here and what they say over there. Sure they talk about frame, but its tires and psi before any mention of frame is mentioned. They will advocate any hardtail with an air fork over and XCT bike, they know better. If you can't tell the difference in expertise between these weird "online" people cat 1/pro racers who easily ride 5x more than anyone in a bike shop, and have wheelsets that cost thousands; and your $15/hour sales associate at the LBS. I can't convince you, but i know i'll convince others.

Start with ths 300 post thread on equipemtn used in pro races
XCM/XCO World Cup Equipment... - Page 2- Mtbr.com
Then read this 300 post thread on tire selection alone
http://forums.mtbr.com/xc-racing-training/2017-xc-race-tire-thread-1033547.html


----------



## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

brent701 said:


> Go demo some bikes.
> Try not to stick to one brand.
> I owned a Specialized as my 1st bike. Was a Carve, It worked. It was fast.
> Met the Trek store, got a Trek card. It went down hill from there. 15 Treks later, lol
> I own a Niner RKT 9 RDO. It took the place of a Top Fuel I almost bought. Niner felt better to me and I felt faster. ( times shows also)


If you can demo bikes free,absolutely. Otherwise, do not spend one dollar of your precious $600 budget on renting or demoing. Just follow my advice.


----------



## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

Highland said:


> I own 5 Treks.... 2 road bikes and 3 mountain bikes. I like the LBS support and warranty I get through a Trek dealer.


you're not coming from the place these beginners are ie what one and only bike should I buy for $500-900?


----------

