# Easy DIY & factory look !



## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

Here's my light. A group of us at work have made them. They are a DIY adaption of a 3 x CREE torch retro fitted with latest bFlex driver and wired out to a 2.2Ah 14.8V Li-Ion battery.

Absolutely rapt with the performance and appearance of it. Was concerned before making it about a torch being too spotty but it has a nice bright centre for single track and enough spill light for wider sections. I think the dimpled aluminium reflector really helps with the spread. 

I'm running mine at 700mA as get very little extra light when driving at 1000mA and isn't worth the decreased run time.

Looks factory so really pleased with the finished look. Using a torch housing was a lot cheaper than buying a nightlightning.co.nz housing and because it provided the housing, LEDs, lense etc it worked out only a fraction more than making a huckery looking DIY housing. The waterproofing is a great bonus. Taking a hack saw to the perfectly good torch was stressful though !

We did make adjustable helmet mounts from black plastic home irrigation tubing but I have recently replaced it with a Vistalite Nightstick mount. The DIY mount worked well and replacement was purely for improved appearance, not function.

More pics later, www not working welll at the moment


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## MikeyLikesIt (Dec 9, 2007)

Interesting...waiting for more.

Mikey


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

DIY mount


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

more pics


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

pics


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

last pic


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## BallisticBatteries (Oct 28, 2006)

Can you give us more info of where to get the parts. I would like to build one. I also think I can come up with a better battery system for you guys.


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

Torch from dealextreme 
bFlex driver from nightlightning.co.nz
Battery & charger from Allbattery.com

Better battery ? The 18650 Li-Ion battery is small & lightweight. Can't imagine better


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Have thought of doing the same myself but feared this was "cheating " the DIY factor. 

Can you a post a link to the torch you used?

Were you aware that a couple of the torches on DE have removable / expandable middle sections? One of these might have saved you cutting up "a perfectly good torch" 

Do you think it would be an easy upgrade to change the Cree's as brighter ones become available or does that not look possible?

How hot does it get?

Cheers

Stuart


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## HuffyPuffy (Jun 9, 2008)

Cool idea, that looks like an Aurora, but I have also seen a Romisen 4 Cree light which could be a good host. How did you close up the end with the wire? Any build pics?

The replacement modules which DX sells will fit in a Maglight as well, with some filing of the threads (also a bit needs to be removed from the module itself but it is not hard).

This is the one I have used:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.9358

Regarding the heat transfer, I have used some Aluminum foil mashed up inside my light to aid in heat transfer. I had read that others did this and saw an improvement so that may be worth doing if there is dead space between the module and body of the light.


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

Cheating ? For those with limited tools (or skills) I look at it as simply being a way to guarantee a desirable result !

Cutting torch and having batteries in shirt pocket or hydration pack reduces weight and stress on neck. Also allows fitting of more efficient driver and can choose whatever battery type / weight / cost that you want.

It will be very easy to replace the LEDs if they fail, or I want even more light. They were supplied thermal pasted onto the internal mount/heatsink part of the torch. Sequence of build was unscrew the torch parts, cut off excess battery tube part, unsolder the existing driver wires and soldered on the wires from the new driver. The bFlex fitted in the torch head. Drilled hole in side/top of the torch and bored flat for the pushbutton. Another threaded hole underneath for the mount. Fit cable gland into back cut off section of torch then black marker pen on the cut surfaces and it's done. Easy DIY !!!

When riding it's absolutely cold. Have had it 1000mA when stationary for approx 30mins and barely felt warm (still less than skin temp)


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Sorry UK_Exile, didn't mean to offend if that is what I have done. The "cheating" comment was more of a personal comment than anything else, trying to keep my lights as "homemade" as possible, wins points with the local pissing contest.

As for removing the battery holder I totally understand where you were going with that. Gives you much better battery options as well as saving the weight on your head. My intent with the removable/ expandable ones was to remove the middle section and then screw the end cap back onto the light body. Although that said I am not sure if the versions I have seen will allow the end cap to be screwed to the light body or if the threads will not be compatible.

Either way mate it does look great and you have done a good job. Really promising to hear that it stays cool to the touch as well. Would still like a link or brand name for the torch you have used if possible.

Cheers

Stuart


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

No offense taken 
It was important that it looked "right". It's hard enough to get permission from CFO for yet more biking stuff and if she had then seen the cash result in a huckery looking housing………..

The removable threaded sections are approx 2/3 along and right at the end of torch so if we hadn't cut them at the head would still have at least 2/3 of torch length remaining. We cut them as close to the main head as possible.

The new driver has temp sensing so it's self protecting if temp were an issue. I assume torches are made to handle stationary use so overdriving them isn't a big temp problem, particulary when cycling.

I'll try to find the link. They had a few similar torches. Just check for glass lens and aluminium reflector. Some are plastic.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

uk- exile,
looks absolutely great. One comment gets me worried though "1000mA for 30 minutes and barely warm" 
I can tell you that my housings with 3-up at 750mA are too hot to handle comfortable after about 3 minutes. 
So either the 1) leds do not have good contact with the heat sink or 2) you have not set the drive current to 1000ma and are running at the default 350 ...

incase of the 1st , make sure you set the trip temperature of the bflex. (disable is default)


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## BallisticBatteries (Oct 28, 2006)

What Torch were you using from dealextreme


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Great stuff uk exile :thumbsup: :thumbsup: 
this method seems to be a growing trend with the home brewer
and the cheap stuff coming out of China , and your result shows it looks a shop bought light.

The down side if it is one is you cannot be quite sure the leds are what they say they are
but as long as they work and work well it is not an issue.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

BallisticBatteries said:


> I also think I can come up with a better battery system for you guys.


So with a name like Ballistic Batteries and a comment like that I assume you sell batteries. Checked your profile and you don't link a site or anything so do you have a website / shop or are you just doing custom packs for people that ask?

Sorry for the thread hijack


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

uk_exile said:


> bFlex driver from nightlightning.co.nz


Hey nice work. Very tidy.

I agree with heatstroke this should be hot after 30min.

Is the bflex from nightlightning set at 1.2A max like their lights? (Normal bflex is 1A max).


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## notenoughtime (Sep 7, 2004)

So did you cut and rethread the body to put it back together? Can you detail that part for us? I was looking to do this too, but with a P7 torch.


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

The instructions supplied with the nightlightning bFlex says max is 1000mA. But there's not much more output at 1000mA setting over 700mA setting so I've configured for 700mA. I have not checked using multimeter but I'm getting flashes matching the instructions so assume it's correct. Light output is a bit more than a new 35W halogen so seems about right. 

No build pics sorry.

The heatsinking designed in the torch is very effective. The LEDs are thermal pasted onto flange/end cap of a machined alloy tube. The outer edge of the flange is slightly angled so that when the torch head is screwed together the flange edge is tightly pressed on the main body. No gaps and heat transfer is obviously very good. The original driver was plugged on the other end of the alloy tube. We but some of the tube off so that could fit the bFlex into it's space. 

The cable gland worked really well. Simply cut off the rear section of torch and unscrewed the remaining stub. It had a plastic bush, contact & spring in it. Knocked the plastic out and the hole was almost perfect fit for the cable gland


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## BallisticBatteries (Oct 28, 2006)

What Torch were you using from dealextreme


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## Katzenjammer (Jun 12, 2007)

BallisticBatteries said:


> What Torch were you using from dealextreme


http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14029 by the look of it.

What was your earlier mention of better batteries all about?


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10396

Rechecked it regarding temp last night. Inside my house & set on 700mA it was warm to touch after 5mins. After 10mins above skin temp, maybe 40-45degC. Could feel warmer ring where the internal LED flange meets the main body. 
There's only say 7-9W heating a big lump of alloy with lots of surface area so seems ok to me.

My only previous stationary run was about 30mins at a late night BBQ. It was a cold misty evening so guess that's why it stayed cold. When riding it stays absolutely cold.


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## BallisticBatteries (Oct 28, 2006)

Katzenjammer, I'm thinking of a hard case Li-Poly setup. Lots of capacity and very light. I also have some Li Ion cells that would work also. Let me know what your ideas are on power. I borrowed a friends NiteRider TriNewt which has the 3 LED in it. I was very impressed by it. I Have the Minewt.X2 dual set up now but want a set up like the TriNewt brightness. Is that light going to be brighter than the P7 flash light setup that a lot of people are using?


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

Nice, been toying with the idea for doing the same, but with P7's torches.

I wrecked the last 1 fiddling though 

BB, I'd bet similar the P7's are wasteful so makes 900lumens, puts @600 forwards, where as CREE's put 200 forward each, call it 170L at 700ma each x's 3 = 510lumens so similar.

P7 gives a smaller lighter head though @40mm compared to @55mm which is alot of mass like 150grams saved there!! Making 2 a option 


Smooth reflectors bet it out throws a P7 aswell!! Cheap to.


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

Note the aluminium reflector supplied in ours wasn't absolutely smooth, it's a bit dimpled.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

Just checked my order  stock ran out, never going to get my P7's, changing to another item though so hopefully here for end of next week 

Lights, will be the death of me 

Smaller and lighter P7 so better for running 2, worse for heat but as plan to use them most of the time on medium no worries


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## Calina (Apr 8, 2008)

notenoughtime said:


> So did you cut and rethread the body to put it back together? Can you detail that part for us? I was looking to do this too, but with a P7 torch.


I'm asking the same question. How did you do it?


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

No need to rethread it. Just cut the battery section off behind main head , fit cable gland and screw back together. 
Have a look at the pics on dealextreme. You'll see it disassembled.


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## HuffyPuffy (Jun 9, 2008)

Katzenjammer said:


> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14029 by the look of it.
> 
> What was your earlier mention of better batteries all about?


That reflector looks like it could be plastic. It is also a smooth reflector which will have a better throw, but a less pretty beam. I would check for some with positive reviews since there seems be quite a few of this type of light out there (and probably quite a bit of difference between them).


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

HuffyPuffy said:


> That reflector looks like it could be plastic. It is also a smooth reflector which will have a better throw, but a less pretty beam. I would check for some with positive reviews since there seems be quite a few of this type of light out there (and probably quite a bit of difference between them).


The reflectors in ours are definitely alloy, not plastic


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## dkvick (Apr 16, 2004)

*Weight of light*

UK-Exile, how much did the finished light head weigh with the hardware?


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

No idea sorry. WIll take it off the helmet and weigh sometime.


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## momentum... (Dec 14, 2007)

uk_exile said:


> No need to rethread it. Just cut the battery section off behind main head , fit cable gland and screw back together.
> Have a look at the pics on dealextreme. You'll see it disassembled.


I've looked at the picture and maybe I'm being a bit dim, but would you mind explaining this a bit more? Once you've cut the battery tube then the torch has an open tube with no threading at that end, but the cable gland looks like it's screwed into something that close the tube and forms the back of the torch. What's that? Is it one of the bits of torch 9and if it is how do you attach it) or is it something else? Hope you don't mid the questions but I'm interested in doing something similar with my torch.


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

Ok, here's a little more detail.


The great bit is when you cut the battery tube there is a metal disc inside it that’s already threaded. The disc has a plastic insert and small cnetral pin that used for battery connection. Push out the pin and plastic bit. Unscrew the metal disc, fit the cable gland into it and rescrew it into the battery tube. Done


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## momentum... (Dec 14, 2007)

Aha - very clever! Thanks for the information mate


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

dkvick said:


> UK-Exile, how much did the finished light head weigh with the hardware?


Sorry about the delay weighing it. The head, mounting, velcro and wire (approx 1m long, could be shorter) is 305gm. The battery pack weighs in at 202gm. So 507gm all up. Don't know how that compares with others but seems good for a tough great looking light with heaps of light and run time.


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## gexas (Aug 15, 2008)

UK exhile what is the burn time of your light??

thanks,

e


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

Depends on what output level you're running it at. The controller can be setup for numerous levels.
Haven't checked it accurately at max but it's around 2 - 2.5hrs. Often ride twisty single track through trees at medium output and know I can get 4-5hrs. It does warning flashes as the battery nears it end and later dims itself. After that can select emergency settings and get more run time but instructions say that's not good for batteries


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## gexas (Aug 15, 2008)

Ok thanks. I'm building a light set out of two TrustFire TR-801 Cree Q5-WC 230-Lumen(I doubt it is 230 lmns) LED Flashlights using the TrustFire Protected 18650 Lithium Batteries. I do like your set up. 

I need about 8 hours burn time since I do adventure races and need at least this much burn time for night riding/treking/paddling. I'm going to use 8 batteries in series to drive these two lights. I've used them on a couple night rides and they each throw plenty of light and they run at full power for about two hours on 2 of the batteries I listed above.

Thanks for responding back with the burn time as I like having that for comparison. 

e


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

gexas said:


> using the TrustFire Protected 18650 Lithium Batteries............
> ..........I'm going to use 8 batteries in series to drive these two lights.


Do you mean batteries in parallel? Eight 18650s in series = 29.6v (33.6v fresh off the charger).

JZ


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

This one ??
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13095

I'd suggest you replace the as supplied torch drivers with the nz nightlight drivers. In mine it fitted straight in, easy as. But of course I'm using a larger torch, it has 3 LEDs. We've getting a lot more output from unit with the replacement driver and can dim, strobe, flash etc. Having customisable dim allows much much longer run time. I often MTB through trees at medium output. For flat water paddling, road riding, or mountain running I'd suspect about 30% output would give plenty of light and easily 8hr run time.

But I'm not sure I'd want my helmet and light on my head for 8hrs. Doubt my neck could stand the weight.

As complete aside where do you race ? Ever considered coming to NZ and doing the Coast to Coast ? It's one of the world's first adventure multisport races and still has reputation of being one of the best courses. I'm considering doing it as team with my son. Likely not 2010 but in 2011. 
http://www.coasttocoast.co.nz/


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## gexas (Aug 15, 2008)

parallel...that is correct sorry.


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## gexas (Aug 15, 2008)

UK_exhile, those are the lights. I know right now at full power they are great for single track. I can ride as fast as I want to without a problem. I currently have two on my helmet and one on the bike. The weight isn't too bad on the head but after several hours you can notice it there. Also, you can especially feel it if you are lowering your head to read a map or something. 

I will look into that driver. Being able to dim the lights would help especially when you are trying to read a map. The lights put out a ton of light and I've blinded my racing partners several times on accident when we look at the map,etc. 

e


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## uk_exile (May 2, 2008)

Imagine what our accidential blinding issues are like with 3 LEDs....ooops, sorry about that, your night vision will come back tomorrow maybe !


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

gexas said:


> I will look into that driver. Being able to dim the lights would help especially when you are trying to read a map.


gexas: those same lights are also available in a 5-mode version. I used one on my helmet last fall :thumbsup:

JZ


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## gexas (Aug 15, 2008)

YEAH...3 LED's I'm sure just vaporizes anyone,animal or thing in its path. 

e


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## CHRISER (Mar 17, 2009)

*Project SSCP7*

Im currently awaiting the arrival of two P7 drop-in modules with 52mm reflectors, these will be machined down to fit into some alloy housings which take MR11 halogen or 12 LED clusters.
This will give me an estimated 1800 Lumens mounted on my helmet.

I run the 2 overvolted MR 11 halogens or the 12 LED clusters with a VVBP (variable voltage battery pack) 4.8V,6V,12V & 14.4V
The cells used are either AA or AAA 3000Mah NiMH giving me a 10 hour runtime using the clusters.
Will post pictures when project is finished in mid April


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