# SolarStorm/FandyFire X2



## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

$46.54 Fasttech

OR

$65 Fancyflashlights

I like what it says about the modes, that is, the order of the modes and the hidden strobe. Unfortunately it doesn't give the strength of each mode or say if both LEDs are used all the time like I hope they are.



> High performance electronic switch for turn on/off and change the mode in Lo > Mid > Hi, press over 1 second to access Strobe Mode


2000 chinese lumens. With a current draw of 2.3A, it should put out nearly 1000 emitter lumens.

A 1A charger is better than what most cheap lights come with.

If the throw is decent, the low profile should make this a decent helmet lamp.

It comes with the typical 4x18650 battery pack of unknown quality.

I'll keep an eye on this. I've been using a heavy flashlight on my helmet, and although the throw is phenomenal, it strains my neck too much on long rides.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

leaftye said:


> View attachment 782741
> 
> 
> $46.54 Fasttech
> ...


*Great find Leaftye!!* This lamp seems to be a repackaged version of the D99 that D/X was selling a while back but a bit more refined. The battery is probably crap but the lamp looks pretty nice. I expect people to be all over this. Unlike the D99 this lamp has only one button but does the same thing as the D99. Has battery indicators as well. Push/hold to activate strobe. I might get one of these myself. After seeing these it wouldn't surprise me to see D/X and other websites selling these as well. Very good price. Hope the battery is not crap but not a big deal even if it is. The battery connectors have a screw-on sleeve but other than that they are likely similar to standard MS connectors. It wouldn't surprise me if the MS type batteries work without too much problem.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

That's right, good memory, I thought these looked awfully familiar! The loss of the second button means having to be a bit more careful that changing modes doesn't turn it off, but I don't think that'd be a big problem for me.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Looks real good. There's even a red one. This is the same light that Lichitisky posted about the other day. $46 is a steal for one of these. Really all the double xml lights are a bit over-priced in my opinion, since the additional cost of an extra led is probably only about $5. 

I wish they would use the standard magicshine/Xeccon connector. I think you would have to cut off the shield on the lamp side of the connector to even have a chance of compatibility. Too bad no one just sells just the connector.

It hard to tell if beam is any good. Looks more like a spot than anything.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

varider said:


> I wish they would use the standard magicshine/Xeccon connector. I think you would have to cut off the shield on the lamp side of the connector to even have a chance of compatibility. Too bad no one just sells just the connector.


It's still compatible enough. Look at the charger. It's the same model # that came with my Skyray bike light. That light can use Magicshine and Xeccon battery packs.

The only limitation is the charger and battery pack that come with this light may not work with Magicshine-compatible light heads. The charger is weak and the battery is cheap, so that's not a big loss. That's what I mean about it being compatible enough.

I do wish they'd sell the light heads separately...



varider said:


> It hard to tell if beam is any good. Looks more like a spot than anything.


That's good news for me. I want it to be more throwy if I'm going to put this on my helmet.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

leaftye said:


> It's still compatible enough. Look at the charger. It's the same model # that came with my Skyray bike light. That light can use Magicshine and Xeccon battery packs.
> 
> The only limitation is the charger and battery pack that come with this light may not work with Magicshine-compatible light heads. The charger is weak and the battery is cheap, so that's not a big loss. That's what I mean about it being compatible enough.


Okay, you convinced me. Having just picked up a Xeccon 6600mAh battery, I now have two batteries with the Magicshine design. So I want to be able to those superior batteries with this light head.

I highly doubt that this light will stay at this price for long ($47). They are trying to sell them for over $60 on ebay. Yeah, I know I'm violating the first rule of fight club.

Speaking of ebay, the seller posted another beamshot which makes it look like more of flooder.

New Hero 2X CREE XM L U2 LED Bicycle Bike Light 1800 Lumens w Power Indicator | eBay

You gotta love this quote:

*



As the leader of night riding,it will bring you infinite light!

Click to expand...

*


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

It sounds like buying from that ebay seller is the way to go. When the battery goes dead during a ride, file a paypal claim due to finite light.


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## Trailice (Oct 30, 2009)

*$3.52 magicshine connectors*

$3.52 5.4mm Male to Dual Female Adapter Y-Cable for MagicShine P7 Headlamp / Bike light at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping


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## JakeS (Jan 20, 2008)

Thanks for the heads up leaftye!! Got a red one on the way from fasttech. )



leaftye said:


> View attachment 782741
> 
> 
> $46.54 Fasttech
> ...


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## uiflorin (Dec 6, 2012)

The mechanical design looks better than any other two XM-L reflector/projector, even Gloworm of Gemini. The lateral fins create a better thermal resistance for air flowing along it during ride, in contrast to the vertical fins of the Gloworm and Gemini, making possible to get even 1400-1600 lumen safely for LEDs. Anyways, is the site trustworthy? I mean this: 60 Bike Lights at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Has anyone experience with it? Price is so low that looks like a scam.


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## JakeS (Jan 20, 2008)

This will be my first try with fasttech. There are decent reports over on BLF. Quite a few people getting their 18650s from them.
I have 2 orders started with them and they have shipped with tracking numbers within 2 days.
My expectations are not high on the battery pack quality but the light head looks decent.
There are some discount codes floating around also.



uiflorin said:


> The mechanical design looks better than any other two XM-L reflector/projector, even Gloworm of Gemini. The lateral fins create a better thermal resistance for air flowing along it during ride, in contrast to the vertical fins of the Gloworm and Gemini, making possible to get even 1400-1600 lumen safely for LEDs. Anyways, is the site trustworthy? I mean this: 60 Bike Lights at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
> 
> Has anyone experience with it? Price is so low that looks like a scam.


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## uiflorin (Dec 6, 2012)

Keep us posted, it's on my list now. At this price the battery can be replaced by something decent and still get the light under $100 or so. Plus, the design looks like it can be modified, adding some extra fins on top, for better cooling.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

Yeah, Fasttech is legit. If there were a poll on budgetlightforum, I bet Fasttech would come up as the most reputable vendor. They should out as fast or faster than any other vendor I've used. I've had 4 orders with them that have taken no more than 3 weeks, and as little as 7 calendar days...one order arrived in 8 calendar days.


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## ubrv8 (Apr 27, 2010)

*It's Here*

I just got my FandyFire X2 from fasttech.com It is surprisingly small and seems very well made. I just took a couple of pictures with my phone and I will post some more info along with a beam shot. As for the battery there are no serial numbers or identifying marks but atleast it looks to be soldered decently.

Also I checked and the connector for the light does work with a standard magicshine connector battery (geomangear specifically). It plugs in just fine but probably isn't very waterproof.


IMAG0055 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr


IMAG0058 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr


IMAG0052 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr


IMAG0064 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr


DSC_0006 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr


DSC_0008 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr


DSC_0009 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr


DSC_0010 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

Too many sharp edges for my taste on the Mountainbike. Perhaps this one is better ?


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Great info ubrv8. Especially appreciate the insight that it's compatible with magicshine batteries.

Could you please tell me how the beam compares to the Magicshine 808 or equivalent, which is a more of spot beam. I 'm looking for a flood beam for a bar light.

Thank you


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## uiflorin (Dec 6, 2012)

That light looks like a Magicshine MJ-880 clone without the anodizing. That's the right price.


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## Khrystyan27 (Jul 3, 2011)

@ubrv8, got a DSLR camera, or can borrow one?

I would apreciate some approved nightshots, using the standard MTBR settings.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

The light looks awesome in my opinion. I would rather have the fins on the side than on the side, in case I bash my head into the bars accidentally. That hasn't happened in a while though


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## ubrv8 (Apr 27, 2010)

Khrystyan27 said:


> @ubrv8, got a DSLR camera, or can borrow one?
> 
> I would apreciate some approved nightshots, using the standard MTBR settings.


Yes I have a DSLR, what are the standard MTBR settings?

Thanks


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## JakeS (Jan 20, 2008)

Well, I received mine also. Didn't work right away and then was intermittent.
Turns out the cable connector on the light side was broken inside. 
I just spliced on a spare with extra cable and all is good.
I wanted a longer cable anyway.

Brief review. Looks to be about 30% brighter than my single xml magicshine. So maybe around 1000 real lumens.
Beam is definitely spotty which is good. I'll be using it on the lid.
Battery seems strong off the charger, measured 8.45v. Nothing lost over night.
Not sure when I'll actually use it so run time won't be available for a while.
It weighs almost exactly the same as my single xml MS.
The 3 modes are a decent spread and the press and hold for the strobe is nice.
And the good news! *The strobe is not a strobe but a slow flash*, perfect for on the road.
Cycling through the modes could be problem as you have to go through the off mode to go from hi to low.
Not impressed with the wire gauge, seems way to thin to me as evident with the broken wire in my unit.
Overall seems to be pretty good value for under 50 bux delivered.


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## Khrystyan27 (Jul 3, 2011)

@ubrv8 -

"camera settings: full manual, ISO-100, Exposure-6 seconds, Aperture-F4.0, Focus-Manual, White Balance-Daylight".

I apreciate !
Thanks a lot.


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## ubrv8 (Apr 27, 2010)

*Beam Shot Indoor*

I don't have a backyard and I haven't been able to take a night right yet, so indoor beam shots will have to do for now.

The first set is using the MTBR standard of 
"camera settings: full manual, ISO-100, Exposure-6 seconds, Aperture-F4.0, Focus-Manual, White Balance-Daylight".

In the garage this was too bright so I took a second set where I changed the exposure to 1 second to get a better reference on how bright the light is. I compare it to my MJ808E (with the wide angle lens from ActionLED). With the 6 second exposure the MJ808E looks much brighter in the picture, this is not really the case, I think the wall is bouncing back too much ligh

X2 - High - 6s

IMGP6071 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr
808E (WA) - High - 6s

IMGP6075 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr
X2 - Med - 6s

IMGP6070 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr
X2 - Low - 6s

IMGP6069 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr
X2 - High - 1s

IMGP6082 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr

808E (WA) - High - 1s

IMGP6077 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr
X2 - Medium - 1s

IMGP6081 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr
X2 - Low - 1s

IMGP6080 by kfunfsinn, on Flickr


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

I think the MTBR settings are generally used for outdoor beam shots. With distance photos not as much light is reflected back thus the need for longer exposure. 

The photos you gave are really only useful for gauging beam pattern. Only an outdoor photo will show others how intense the beam pattern is and how far it will throw. If you do an outdoor shot try to bring something along to use as distance markers. Markers at 50, 75, 100, 150 ft are a good place to start...thanks for the effort.


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## Khrystyan27 (Jul 3, 2011)

I've gathered some information about the SolarStorm, by posting in their forums:

Suitable for modding?: FastTech Forums


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Detailed measurements of the reflectors on that thread. The DIY guys will be able to tells us which reflectors have similar dimensions. That would be useful if you want a more flood type beam. It currently looks very spotty to me.


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## Khrystyan27 (Jul 3, 2011)

No, it is contrary. If i will buy this light, i am planning to change the optics with aspherical ones.

For me, it isn't enough throw.


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## roy8846 (Jul 25, 2011)

The red Fandyfire version is only $38.43 

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1285803


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Same light at dx?

RUSTU DB-200 2 x Cree XM-L T6 870lm 4-Mode White Bicycle Light - Black (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

I bought the black SolarStorm version from FastTech. What can I say, red isn't my thing, and Li stuff with Fire in the name is just scary, and hopefully not profetic.

Ordered 10 PM MST April 4. Used the cupon code "TENOFF" and got 5% off the order. Shipped April 7th (Happy Birthday to Me!)

When it shipped, my my order page showed a picture of my package and label. I hadn't run across that before. It was mildly comforting (Yes we really did ship your order - See!)

HK Post showed that the package finally made it out of Hongkong on April 13. Canada Post never showed anything with the tracking number. Received at my door April 19.

I'm quite pleased with the service from FastTech, and will order from them again. 

I like to mode spacing on the light. While I haven't taken it out on the bike yet (heck haven't even taken the bike out yet), Low seems bright enough for road/pathway biking.

The lighthead is 93 grams as advertised.

Out of the box lighthead showed three dots. You know, a boy and his new toy -- I had to start playing without topping up the charge. Probably shone it around for 1/2 hr or more in all the various modes. Then left it on in low to see how long it would go. Not a real timed test. With the out-of-box charge, it ran on low for more than 6 hours plus whatever extra time I spent playing. I meant to turn it off before bed, but forgot about it. It was on one dot before I went to brush my teeth. The instruction sheet says that when the runtime is <30 minutes the last dot will flash. I didn't see it, so I can't vouch for that. The battery took about four hours to charge the next day (again not really timed.)

Battery connector seems well thought out. I have garden lighting with a simillar screw together connector. That stands up to all kinds of weather. The connector mates well with our standard batteries. It you look at the pictures, the orange O-ring goes inside the barrel of the standard connector, so it may even be more watertight than with my other light. It feels secure and snug as a bug in a rug.

Bar mounting O-rings appear to be silicone (or some other plastic) rather than rubber. I read somewhere on here that the silicone rings are more grippy than rubber ones. Time will tell.

My only critisism would be about the flash mode (not that I'm likely to use it.) SOP is that we should almost never use the highest mode on the road. The flash mode is a slow strobe between High and off. I wish it used to power level you were on when you did the "press & hold" to activate stobe mode.

It's nice to see that FastTech updated the listing by adding the disassembled picture (including measurments). It had originally been posted to the modding thread on their forum, in answer to Khrystyan27's question.

So far I'm pleased with this little guy. At least as of now, the battery seems ok, and better than some those E-water offerings. If you Need a less than $50 light, this seems like a good one to try.


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## Khrystyan27 (Jul 3, 2011)

Nightshots?

Heating issues?


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

I'v had the SolarStorm out on three rides so far, and I'm still very pleased with it.

I still haven't done official runtime tests, but from my casual observations the battery seems like it's decent quality.

As I've said before, it ran for more than six hours on low in the house.

Last night was my longest ride so far at 2:20. Ran it on medium the whole time. By the end it was down to the last of the three power level LEDs, but it wasn't flashing yet (which is supposed to indicate <30 minutes left). My ride was at -5 C (23 F). The chill would have taken some umph out of the power pack.

In building an extension to the expressway/ring road, the city is chopping a good chunk out of my playground. I figure if they're going to be so rude, I'm gonna rub it in their face, and sully their virgin tarmac by riding my bike down it. Part of this thing is complete with pavement, street lights (not on), and road signs. The overpasses are built, but not their associated connector roads and ramps. Once they finish the railway overpass, I'll have several more kilometers on which to spew my mountain bike contamination all over their motorway monstrosity. (Cue the evil laugh! :devil

The point of the story is that the road signs were lit up as if by car headlights. Both the SolarStorm and the Xeccon S12 (XM-L U2 version) had the same effect. I know they're bright from much further away, but I only thought to start measuring at 1.25 Km (.77 miles) out. I sure knew I was approaching dirt exit ramp to the non-existant connector road. I'll try and see how much further they pop, the next time I'm on there after dark.

The SolarStorm has a nice broad beam pattern for the bars. The city is pushing a lot of dirt around during the construciton. Each trip I have to pick out a new line across giant earth mover, four lane corduroy, to where my trail picks up on the other side. On medium, and paired with the X-12 I've certainly felt I had enough light to do that.

I've found a place for that may be a good spot for "Tunnel of Trees" beem shots. For the moment I'd rather get some more rides in, before I lug the camera, tripod, dollar store traffic cones and measuring tape out there. It's an uphill spot, so I have to wait for a clear skies night. City lights bouncing off the clouds would give too much of an orange background.

If you decide to purchase it from FastTech, don't forget the "TENOFF" cupon code (which ironically only give 5% off). That takes the light down to $44.21 USD, shipping included, with what seems to be a fiarly good battery. For those that can't afford the name brands, definatly a worthwhile contender.

And yes, I do carry a AA Planet Bike Blaze 2 as backup (currently using as my bliky), just in case both the both the SolarStorm and X-12 quit.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

How big is the hot spot compared to a magicshine 808 (or a similar clone)? That's the million dollar question right now. Two leds should give us both more light and more of a spread beam.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

I bought a couple SolarStorm's from FastTech. The lighthead seems pretty nice and the beam is decent. I like the fact that the strobe mode is hidden, although I wish it were completely gone. I'd rather the light cycled through L/M/H and repeated without the off. Then, a long press would turn off. I have no use for the strobe, but I understand others do. 

I have done 3 discharge tests on my hobby charger and the reported capacities were 3333mah, 3404mah, and 3751mah. Not exactly high capacity packs, but what do you expect for $47 including the lighthead and charger...

I need to get out for some real night rides and report back. The around the yard messing about and comparing to other lights is promising.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Just did a quick bit of twisty singletrack (as well as a fast dirt road descent / slow climb). The beam pattern seems a bit too floody for the helmet and a bit too spotty for the bars. So, that should make it the 650b of light patterns. Tons of light for <$100. The smaller o-ring is a bit sloppy for a 25.4 bar. Not terrible, but I'll probably use another tighter one I have laying around.

I took off the plastic mount for the helmet light and used my preferred method of 3M Dual Lock. Removing the mount leaves a threaded hole that does not penetrate the body of the light. Perfecto.


SolarStorm by bbaker22, on Flickr


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

baker said:


> Just did a quick bit of twisty singletrack (as well as a fast dirt road descent / slow climb). The beam pattern seems a bit too floody for the helmet and a bit too spotty for the bars. So, that should make it the 650b of light patterns. Tons of light for <$100. The smaller o-ring is a bit sloppy for a 25.4 bar. Not terrible, but I'll probably use another tighter one I have laying around.


I was afraid that it would be too spotty for bar-mount. Thanks for clearing that up. Nice helmet mount!

It's bad design that it turns off after high. That could be semi-dangerous.

Has anyone successfully swapped out the reflectors for a different type?


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

varider said:


> I was afraid that it would be too spotty for bar-mount


I would have to disagree. I use mine on the bars, and I think it's a great bar light. The spot is large and lights the full width of a two lane (under construction) highway. The throw is quite decent, and brihtens the trail well ahead of me.

My Xeccon S12 U2 thows further, and has a tighter spot. But then again, that's what it is designed to do. The non-spot beam of the S-12 is a bit wider, but the Solostorm gives plenty of light for the trail.

I did a 3:45 ride with the Solostorm last week. First 20 min on road = low. Then ran on medium for most of the rest of the ride. At hour 3, the third dot started flashing, and I returned to low. It lasted another 30 minutes before shuting down.

I want to take some Shoot-out style trail pix, but hauling all that gear is gonna be a pain. Just got to have a day when I'm motivated enough to do it.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Ian_C said:


> I would have to disagree. I use mine on the bars, and I think it's a great bar light. The spot is large and lights the full width of a two lane (under construction) highway. The throw is quite decent, and brihtens the trail well ahead of me.
> 
> My Xeccon S12 U2 thows further, and has a tighter spot. But then again, that's what it is designed to do. The non-spot beam of the S-12 is a bit wider, but the Solostorm gives plenty of light for the trail.
> 
> ...


Thanks Ian. Two lanes seems very broad to me, more of a flood type light.

I think that the amount of light outside the hot spot is also what makes it bar-worthy. You need some light on the ground between the front tire and the beginning of the hot spot 15 or 20 ft away.

The Magicshine 808E is not that great in that regard. The D99 is better, but doesn't have a true hot spot. The solarstorm is probably also better ( I wish I had one). I also have a magicshine 872 clone and that thing is a super flooder.

Beam shots would be awesome. I want to do a shoot-out also, but I don't have a dslr.


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## Khrystyan27 (Jul 3, 2011)

Are those lenses suitable for the SS X2?

I want to change the actual lens with eliptical ones for legal road use.

Which one would be suitable?

35.0mm Optics/Light Diffusers (Glass/5-Pack) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

or?

23.0mm Optics/Light Diffusers (PMMA/5-Pack) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme


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## reinholdus (Oct 11, 2005)

:eekster::skep::nono:


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## Khrystyan27 (Jul 3, 2011)

So i will have to cut them a little bit to fit in the space of the original reflector.

I want to use the bike light for legal road use, but the original reflectors produce too much glare.


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

"Ok, now I understand.

Wow, that sucks! I just assumed there was a solid wall behind the led board. Oh well, not the greatest design. That's why it's so small, they left out the thermal conduction wall! I wonder how long it will take to fry itself. 

So that leaves the Solarstorm x2 and dx ultrafire D-50 as possible good and cheap dual-emitter lights "

Can you check if this light is build better than the D99 - is there a wall behind the led board?


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## Piston pounder (Apr 8, 2012)

I just bought 3 of these lights for a 24 hour race, all 3 worked perfect!. This was my first time riding at night and I was really impressed with these lights!.


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## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

I am interested in the SSX2 and or any other similar dual emitters. My intent would be to run this on the bars as more of a flood pattern. 

- Any beam shots on the trails yet?
- What is the run-time on High and Medium settings with the FT supplied battery?
- What is the difference in output on the High vs Medium settings (subjective responses are also acceptable at this point)?
- What are the trade-offs of this vs. the TrustFire TR-D002? 

I would like to get a minimum of 2 hours on medium setting, with the preference of something closer to 2.5 hours. I understand that the SSX2 can easily do this so my question is in regards to how much of a tradeoff in light output that is occurring on that setting? I suppose I mostly looking for the maximum output possible in the 2-2.5 hour range. I don't need anything over-the-top powerful though since I am getting by just fine with two (2) Niterider Lumina 650's (on medium). Lastly, I'm not opposed to spending slightly more money and buy the light and battery units separate if it would significantly improve performance. Thanks.

Edit: meant Lumina, not MiNewt


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

steelhmr said:


> I am interested in the SSX2 and or any other similar dual emitters. My intent would be to run this on the bars as more of a flood pattern.
> 
> - Any beam shots on the trails yet?
> - What is the run-time on High and Medium settings with the FT supplied battery?
> ...


The only person who has all the lights is Kir, and here's what he said about them:
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/another-new-promising-xm-l2-light-859695.html#post10489180

There's really only a few people who have any of these lights, as they are all very new. So there aren't very many side-by-side comparisons of any of the lights. The D99 was the first cheap dual emitter light, and a bunch of us bought them and reviewed it.

The "which light should I buy" questions can only be answered if you consider the light as a whole, i.e. the UI, beam pattern etc. For me, the user interface (UI) and the number of modes is very important. Each light has a different downside, so it's just a matter of what you are willing to live with. For example this light supposedly turns off completely while changing from the high to low mode. Not ideal in my opinion. So just keep reading the threads to see what you like.


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## g5magic (Jul 20, 2008)

How long is the battery last?


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## mtbboy41 (Jan 31, 2004)

The battery that came with mine lasted about an hour on high. It won't charge past 8.2 volts. I am going to send it back


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

I do have all of these lights...actually I have *loads* of chinese bike lights, about 20-30 models atm. 
Its basically my little fun project, I want to collect every popular chinese bike light and make a complete database with technical data, pics of the insides/drivers, reviews of each light with beamshots etc. It all started 6 months ago when I decided to get a new light and ordered a few lights from aliexpress. Wasn't impressed by them, ordered more...and so on  So far I've managed to collect almost every model so I have the lights - but I just don't have the time to make detailed reviews atm. 
If there will be enough interest in the database like this, I may attemp to make an english version too (I'm from Russia, so english is not my native language  ).
Bicycle Light 5*T6 - you can find some of my test reviews here, on pages 6-7-8. Google translate it, it'll be horrible but understandable for most parts.

Now, about SolarStorm X2.
Original SSX2 from aliexpress (bought it for $62 or so) has ~3700mAh battery. I also got 2 versions from fasttech.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1285800 - this one has 3000mAh battery. 
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1330303 - this one has ~3600mAh battery AND unbalanced cells, protection circuit at battery activates at charging so final battery voltage is lower than 8.4v (same as mtbboy41's battery). Also its a clone of SSX2, driver is a bit different.

I made a quick test of current draw from external PSU at 8.4V, here is the data for all 2XML lights that I have at maximum mode:
TrustFire TR-D002 - 1A
D99 - 1.3A
D-50 - 1.4A
Solarstorm X2 - 2A

So SSX2 is the most powerful 2XML light. At 7.5v (usual working voltage from battery) it draws 0.5A in low mode, 1.5A in middle and more than 2A (probably about 2.3A, my PSU has 2A limit) at high.
With 3000mAh battery you'll get 1-1.3 hours runtime on high and about 2 hours runtime on medium. With 3700 battery a bit more.
Imo you really need to make your own battery for SSX2 (or buy a good battery made from 2600mAh cells), chinese batteries don't offer enough capacity for it.

2XML lights - Imgur - some comparison pics of my 2XML lights


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Found this in other thread:
Aliexpress.com : Buy 1 Set 2013 SolarStorm X2 Bike Light Waterproof 2 CREE U2 LED 2000LM Bicycle Light + Intelligent Power Indicate + Free Shipping from Reliable Bike light suppliers on Shenzhen East Face Sci&Tech Co., Ltd
Solarstorm X2 for $37 shipped. Go to "sale items", get 3 off 30 coupon, use it at checkout.
Even if you'll get a crappy battery its still a very good deal.


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## ironbrewer (Oct 17, 2012)

Just pulled the trigger on the solarstorm X2 for $36.84. I was looking at it, but decided I really didn't need it. I went for a night ride and my 3 XML-T6 fried right before the kinda technical steep part of my ride. Good thing I had a 1 XML-T6 on my helmet or it really would have sucked riding out. Guess I was wrong and needed another light. Hopefully they will ship it fast.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

SolarStorm X3 spotted, in one store for now.
Red:
Aliexpress.com : Buy Free Shipping 6000 Lumens 3x CREE XML XM L U2 LED Bicycle Bike Cycling Head HeadLamp Lamp HeadLight 6400mAh Battery light from Reliable Bicycle light suppliers on Online Store 711140
Black:
Free Shipping 6000 Lumens 3x CREE XML XM L U2 LED Bicycle Bike Cycling Head HeadLamp Lamp HeadLight 6400mAh Battery Rear light-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Sweet! Wish I had not purchased the Trustfire TR-D010 and purchased one of these...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Kir said:


> SolarStorm X3 spotted, in one store for now.
> Red:
> Aliexpress.com : Buy Free Shipping 6000 Lumens 3x CREE XML XM L U2 LED Bicycle Bike Cycling Head HeadLamp Lamp HeadLight 6400mAh Battery light from Reliable Bicycle light suppliers on Online Store 711140
> Black:
> Free Shipping 6000 Lumens 3x CREE XML XM L U2 LED Bicycle Bike Cycling Head HeadLamp Lamp HeadLight 6400mAh Battery Rear light-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com


Interesting...my thoughts....Somewhat ugly but if you must have a three emitter lamp this could be the most functional. Likely good at heat dissipation as well. Personally, I like the smaller form factor of the duel emitter lamps. If the Solarstorm X2 comes out in a XM-L2 version I might just buy one. ( Unless Gloworm comes out with an XM-L2 version of their *X2 first  ... * not to be confused with the Solorstorm X2 )

Strange though that they claim this lamp is 6000 lumen.


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## shapirus (Jun 28, 2009)

Ok this one looks a no-brainer for $38 (if the 5% discount coupon still works), even with a crappy battery. I'm going to order it.

The only potential downside to me is that the beam looks too throwy with a definite central hot spot. Has anyone come across a compatible optics that would make it more diffuse yet? I found some 23mm optics, but it appears that it would require some machining to fit.

Is the MJ-880 optics compatible? What about this one: Action-LED-Lights - Wide Angle Lens for the MJ-880 ?


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## DXofficial (Mar 1, 2013)

*Solarstorm X2 on sale now*

Hi guys,

Just want to let you know that DX has the Solarstorm X2 on sale for $43.50 right now, but with limited quantities. Other bike lights available at a discount and we are dispatching these from the warehouse within 72 hrs.

Solarstorm X2 Sale

We have the black and red available.

~joseph


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## ironbrewer (Oct 17, 2012)

Its cheaper on AliExpress.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Aliexpress.com : Buy 2013Hotsale!! SolarStorm X2 Bike Light 2 CREE U2 LED 2000LM Waterproof Bicycle Light + Intelligent Power Indicate,Freeshiping from Reliable Bike Light suppliers on Shenzhen East Face Sci&Tech Co., Ltd
Then go to "sale items", grab $3 off $30 coupon = new SS X2 for $32 shipped!
Expect a crappy ~2000mAh battery though, but still worth it for the light alone.


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## Desidus (Jun 27, 2013)

Kir, good deal that one. The other deal isn't bad either really.


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## gopherhockey (Jun 3, 2004)

Khrystyan27 said:


> No, it is contrary. If i will buy this light, i am planning to change the optics with aspherical ones.
> 
> For me, it isn't enough throw.


Did you ever find optics replacement for the Solarstorm? If so, where?


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## XCfanatic (Jul 14, 2010)

For less than $35, I plan to buy the SSX2. I see quite a few mentioned that this may come with crappy batteries. Can someone post a link to where I can get some quality batteries without mods. I just know it's 18650 batteries, but I don't know if they all have the same connections. I'm sure I'm using wrong terms here. But any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


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## gopherhockey (Jun 3, 2004)

XCfanatic said:


> For less than $35, I plan to buy the SSX2. I see quite a few mentioned that this may come with crappy batteries. Can someone post a link to where I can get some quality batteries without mods. I just know it's 18650 batteries, but I don't know if they all have the same connections. I'm sure I'm using wrong terms here. But any help is greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I've been waiting for the very same information. From what I can tell, this is a decent case (throw the batteries out):

4 x 18650 Battery Set for Bicycle Light-in Charger from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com

and you can get a good battery here:

$16.21 Panasonic NCR18650B Protected Rechargeable 3400mAh 3.7V 18650 Lithium Batteries 2-pack - authentic cells / 2-pack / overcharge + over-discharge protection at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Though I admit I don't know the difference between all the kinds on the drop-down. (assume flat, protected, but am not sure on the mAh)

I *think* this could allow you to build up a decent pack without needing to have soldering skills etc.

Wish I had more info, maybe someone can clarify or suggest something better.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

$14.79 Panasonic NCR18650B Rechargeable 3400mAh 3.7V 18650 Lithium Batteries 2-pack - authentic cells / 2-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
You need these batteries to fit in that battery pack.
Also these batteries have to be discharged to 2.7v to get full capacity out of them, not sure it that battery pack protection circuit will allow that...will test that a bit later.

And update on these $35 solarstorms - they actually have good batteries! Well, good for chinese batteries  They have about 3300mAh capacity, I just tested 2 of them. 
So expect about 1.5 hours runtime on high and longer on low/medium - which is not bad, you could always use that battery as a spare one for long nite rides. For main battery I still recommend to get something with higher capacity.


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## XCfanatic (Jul 14, 2010)

Thank you Kir and GH. Just placed the order for the SSX2. I'll see how the batteries go. For $35, not much to lose.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

I just found the X2 - Light Head Only over on Ali Express.

SolarStorm X2 2*Cree XM-L U2 2000-Lumen Led Bike Light Head - Black (Without Battery Pack) + Free Shipping US $25.92

Are they going to start giving them away soon?

Of course Ali is a storefront for Many different sellers. It may be a race to the lowest price amongst retailers. I don't think you can directly compare Ali to an outlet like FastTech, which is a single store, with a consistent and better return policy.

I really like my X2, and was thinking of buying a second. I'm not sure I can turn down a backup light head for $26. Or should I buy it with an OK battery for $10 more?


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## shapirus (Jun 28, 2009)

I've found that this light is jamming my wireless BBB BCP-32w cycle computer's transmission, rendering it unusable. That is pretty bad, and I'm now considering either switching to a wired computer (which I wouldn't like to do), or replacing the light's driver or the entire light.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Ian_C said:


> I just found the X2 - Light Head Only over on Ali Express.
> 
> SolarStorm X2 2*Cree XM-L U2 2000-Lumen Led Bike Light Head - Black (Without Battery Pack) + Free Shipping US $25.92
> 
> ...


Nice find Ian! That's going to be hard to pass up. The complete set is just $34.99. It might be worth the extra cost for a spare battery.


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## Scoobylight (Apr 28, 2013)

Ian_C said:


> I just found the X2 - Light Head Only over on Ali Express.
> 
> SolarStorm X2 2*Cree XM-L U2 2000-Lumen Led Bike Light Head - Black (Without Battery Pack) + Free Shipping US $25.92
> 
> ...


So what battery pack would be best to get if you bought the light only?


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## mrbubbles (Apr 9, 2007)

Has any tried the new MT-U2?

$40.00 MT-U2 2*Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 1500-Lumen White LED Bike Head Light - black + blue / 1*battery pack (4*18650/3200mAh/2S2P) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

It's got less sharp edges.


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## Rocky Raccoon (Jul 26, 2013)

mrbubbles said:


> Has any tried the new MT-U2?
> 
> $40.00 MT-U2 2*Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 1500-Lumen White LED Bike Head Light - black + blue / 1*battery pack (4*18650/3200mAh/2S2P) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
> 
> It's got less sharp edges.


Nice Find!!
Inspired by Wall-E?


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

2 more lights that are based on SSX2:
https://kaidomain.com/product/details.S022347 different case, probably the same driver/leds/modes setup.
NITEFIRE HERO2 3 x Cree XM-L U2 2100lm 4-Mode Cool White Bicycle Light - Black (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme 3rd led added between the 2 side leds, looks interesting.

Now for some bad news - I received another batch of SSX2s from ali for $35 and the batteries in them are HORRIBLE. Previous batch had batteries in black heatshrink and they had about 3500mAh capacity. Latest batch (from same seller, same item, same price) has blue heatshrink and these batteries have 1500-1600mAh capacity, made from 700-800mAh cells. This battery will last for about 40 minutes on high, here is a discharge graph from my Imax:


This is bad, but since even "good" 3500mAh batteries don't have enough capacity for a light that draws 2.3A on high - I don't really care, gonna replace the cells anyway. Still be warned that the new batches have completely unusable batteries.


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## pigmode (Nov 15, 2009)

^ Was just wondering about trying out the blue shrink wrapped batteries. Imo no biggie if its a throw away. Having no testing equipment, I need to rely on trustworthy resellers or dealers.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Ian_C said:


> *I just found the X2 - Light Head Only over on Ali Express.
> 
> SolarStorm X2 2*Cree XM-L U2 2000-Lumen Led Bike Light Head - Black (Without Battery Pack) + Free Shipping US $25.92*
> 
> ...


You have to be real careful when buying stuff from the Chinese web sites. On the link you provided the X2 being sold only has three modes, high-low-strobe. There is no mid-mode like with the other sellers. That would be the deal breaker for me.

D/X sells a version of the X2 under a different name. The ones they sell only list an output no more than 600 lumens. :skep: These things are being cloned like crazy. Be careful who you buy from.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Measured 2nd battery, its even worse! :shocked:

1072mAh on discharge, how is that even possible? Thats a new record for low capacity batteries from everything that I've tested. Gotta open it up tomorrow and measure capacity of every cell, I can hardly believe that chinese manufacturers make 18650 cells *with 500mAh capacity* 

These lights also have different, more simple driver - I've already seen 3 driver types in SSX2 bodies and spotted 4.2v versions on aliexpress (these ones have 2 leds indicator in the back). This light seems to be very popular and cloned in every possible way.


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## pigmode (Nov 15, 2009)

I'll have to say when I did a quick indoor test last night of my ali SSX2, I was much less than impressed. New Action LED-Magicshine battery though, with 20min use on first charge up. Hope to try it out on the road tonight with a fresh charge.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

So who's selling the good version?


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## mike95 (Sep 11, 2011)

I believe fasttech are selling the good ones. I got 2 last week from them & both batteries are in the black shrinkwrap. used for approx 90 minutes & power indicator was still green. Only had 1 ride with them so far.

very impressed with these lights when comparing to my single XML MS clone i have been happily using for the last 10 months.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

Cat-man-do said:


> You have to be real careful when buying stuff from the Chinese web sites. On the link you provided the X2 being sold only has three modes, high-low-strobe. There is no mid-mode like with the other sellers. That would be the deal breaker for me.


Thanks Cat. I'd missed that.

I did see the rather odd line item in the description "is_customized: Yes" and wondered what it meant. Guess you discovered the customization.

It just confirms my uneasy feeling about Ali Express. I knew I smelled a rat when each link to the X2 on Ali seemed to be from a different seller.


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## pigmode (Nov 15, 2009)

Took my Ali SSX2 out this morning at 230am, with a freshly charged 4400ah batt. I like it--its my first serious light compared to my first ed. Magicshine, and the Dinotte 600 which I returned, it not being a cost worthy improvement over the P7 MS. 

I don't plan to get a spare SSX2. I want more lumens, better construction, design and reliability. IIRC these X2 are estimated at 1000 lumens, correct? If that's the case perhaps the Gemini Olympia, although I'm really hoping Gloworm's X2 upgrade can hit 1500. 

Gloworm?!?


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

mike95 said:


> I believe fasttech are selling the good ones. I got 2 last week from them & both batteries are in the black shrinkwrap.


Not really, I measured 3040mAh for fasttech SSX2. Basically black shrinkwrap means that you'll get battery with 3000-4000mAh capacity and even then its not guaranteed.
Chinese batteries = lottery where you have a huge chance to lose and even if you win you'll get only average battery.


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## mrbubbles (Apr 9, 2007)

Kir said:


> Not really, I measured 3040mAh for fasttech SSX2. Basically black shrinkwrap means that you'll get battery with 3000-4000mAh capacity and even then its not guaranteed.
> Chinese batteries = lottery where you have a huge chance to lose and even if you win you'll get only average battery.


Considering how cheap the entire package is and with shipping. It's a wash, there's no way I can make a light that good with that cost, not to mention sourcing the mounts as well.

It's like frozen pizza versus homemade pizza, homemade pizza always came out more expensive.


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## gopherhockey (Jun 3, 2004)

varider said:


> So who's selling the good version?


And links would be helpful. Dang, I wish I knew there were better and worse ones before I bought 2 from Ali Express. :madman:


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## Lightfoot (Mar 18, 2013)

gopherhockey said:


> And links would be helpful. Dang, I wish I knew there were better and worse ones before I bought 2 from Ali Express. :madman:


me too and Ali are taking a very long time to get it to me.....

The description for mine has 3 led's at the rear so i figure it's the 8.4V model and also lo-mid-hi-strobe so fingers crossed it's all good. I don't expect the battery to be much good so i'm not stressed about that.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

gopherhockey said:


> And links would be helpful. Dang, I wish I knew there were better and worse ones before I bought 2 from Ali Express. :madman:


Hey, don't feel bad, I was ready to pull the trigger on these as well.

Fasttech is probably the best place to buy one but Manafont has a SS X2 clone  that is a little cheaper. Looks like the same lamp only it doesn't have the Brand name on it. Even comes in the same box. It has 4-modes and battery power indicators, should be the same lamp.

I've been wondering about these lamps for quite a while. Pretty much looks like a decent package. The lamp uses reflectors ( which I like more than optics ) It has three steady modes ( plus strobe ) which I like. It has battery voltage indicators and a base design that looks like it might dissipate heat well....all in a nice compact package. Also is using the XM-L U2 emitters. The only question is how bright are they. So far no one has been complaining. Yeah, I might buy one just to screw around with. I've ordered from Manafont before without too many problems.


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## trailblazer29er (Apr 23, 2011)

Thought I'd add another supplier that has it a little cheaper and free shipping.

Newegg retailer 37.99 shipped


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## xhailofgunfirex (Jun 25, 2008)

Do these plugs on these lamps work with the Magic Shine batteries? Looks like it, but wanted to know before pulling the trigger on one.

Edit found my answer by actually reading the thread.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Kir said:


> 1072mAh on discharge, how is that even possible? Thats a new record for low capacity batteries from everything that I've tested. Gotta open it up tomorrow and measure capacity of every cell


Just opened the battery...here is what i found inside (bad battery on the left, good battery on the right for comparison):








2 cells are just not connected to anything, guy who was spot-welding them probably wanted to finish his shift earlier.
Quality control? Who needs quality control?


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## dmckiwi (Feb 3, 2011)

Do you think the X2 is better than the D-50 as a helmet light?

I'm thinking the D-50 from fasttech might be better as its got the better battery case and I can upgrade it easily to some panasonics.

$54.05 UltraFire D-50 2*Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 1800-Lumen White LED Headlamp - black / 1*battery pack (4*18650 / 4400mAh / 2S2P) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

X2 is lighter than D-50 so I would say yes.


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## dmckiwi (Feb 3, 2011)

Kir said:


> X2 is lighter than D-50 so I would say yes.


Ok, I was looking at the D-50 as the battery was easy to change to better batteries, is there a consensus on any of the X2's that have a decent battery or do I need to buy another battery or get the screw together holder and panasonic?


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Well imo all chinese batteries are crap, even good ones will have 2000mAh cells inside.
Its probably better to buy the light alone and the buy a holder + samsung 2600/panasonic 2900-3100-3400 cells for it.
8 4V 6600mAh Aluminum Shell Rechargeable Battery FOR XM L T6 LED Bike Headlight | eBay btw there is a holder for $16 shipped.


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## XCfanatic (Jul 14, 2010)

Kir said:


> Well imo all chinese batteries are crap, even good ones will have 2000mAh cells inside.
> Its probably better to buy the light alone and the buy a holder + samsung 2600/panasonic 2900-3100-3400 cells for it.
> 8 4V 6600mAh Aluminum Shell Rechargeable Battery FOR XM L T6 LED Bike Headlight | eBay btw there is a holder for $16 shipped.


Do you know if this connector works with magic shine lights? Thanks.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

It should work (same 5.5x2.1mm metal connector) but you may have to cut some of the rubber from the connector.


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Kir said:


> Well imo all chinese batteries are crap, even good ones will have 2000mAh cells inside.
> Its probably better to buy the light alone and the buy a holder + samsung 2600/panasonic 2900-3100-3400 cells for it.
> 8 4V 6600mAh Aluminum Shell Rechargeable Battery FOR XM L T6 LED Bike Headlight | eBay btw there is a holder for $16 shipped.


Maybe this has been done but can someone provide a link to the good cells. Thx


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## XCfanatic (Jul 14, 2010)

Thanks Kir. As long as I don't have to solder.


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## dmckiwi (Feb 3, 2011)

That's was the way I was leaning as well. Will look at just getting the lamp and then order the battery unit and some good cells.


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## XCfanatic (Jul 14, 2010)

Kir said:


> It should work (same 5.5x2.1mm metal connector) but you may have to cut some of the rubber from the connector.


Would I be able to charge the batteries in the holder or will I have to get a separate charger if I replace the cells?


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Another Solarstorm X3. This one looks much better:
SolarStorm X3 3 x Cree XM-L T6 2000lm 4-Mode White Bike Light - Deep Pink (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

I have no idea if it's the real deal or a clone.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

mb323323 said:


> Maybe this has been done but can someone provide a link to the good cells. Thx


MB, a good "one stop" shopping link for 18650 cells is on the "Fasttech" web site. They also have some pretty good prices. Heck, for what I paid for one Panasonic ( somewhere else ) I could of had two from Fasttech. They have all the good brands ( Panasonic, Samsung, Sanyo ) as well as some off brands that sometimes get honorable mention.

*Word of warning;* Just be sure to read all the product descriptions so you know what you are buying. If you want "protected cells" make sure you read that in the product description. Be careful if you are considering some of the Samsung "ICR" type 18650's. Those cells sometimes have a peak voltage of 4.35 volts. ( vs. normal 18650 Li-ion cells with have a peak voltage of 4.2 ) If you buy the higher voltage cells you will need a different ( special ) charger to get the battery to it's peak voltage. Yes, I do believe Fasttech sells both kinds of chargers.

Fasttech has a bunch of interesting gadgets. After looking over what they have I see a bunch of stuff I'd like to have.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

varider said:


> Another Solarstorm X3. This one looks much better:
> SolarStorm X3 3 x Cree XM-L T6 2000lm 4-Mode White Bike Light - Deep Pink (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
> 
> I have no idea if it's the real deal or a clone.


*VERY INTERESTING!*...I've not seen these anywhere else. Look's like D/X is releasing some new lamps. I might have to give Mr. Joesph a shout to see if he wants one of these reviewed. No telling how this lamp operates it's mode changes. It might do the 1-2-3 led illumination thing to give you three modes. The center LED looks to have a bigger reflector. This might give the lamp more throw. The only down side as I see it is that it is only using standard XM-L T-6 emitters. I'd rather it have the U2 but still, I wouldn't mind taking a look at this baby.

Looks like D/X is gearing up for the night season.


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## dmckiwi (Feb 3, 2011)

How long do you think a X2 would run off 2x 3100/3400 panasonics or the likes? Just wondering if I buy just the X2 and build a small battery pack from a 2 battery holder with PCM and cable that I can velco to my helmet. Could make a second and put in my pocket incase but most of my night riders would be under an hour so do you think I could get that long from 2 good cells?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

dmckiwi said:


> How long do you think a X2 would run off 2x 3100/3400 panasonics or the likes? Just wondering if I buy just the X2 and build a small battery pack from a 2 battery holder with PCM and cable that I can velco to my helmet. Could make a second and put in my pocket incase but most of my night riders would be under an hour so do you think I could get that long from 2 good cells?


Good question. Without knowing more about how much power the SS X2 is using my guess is that if you are running the lamp on high you should get about 1.25 to 1.5 hrs. run time with a very good two cell set-up. The lamp will probably start to dim slightly at the 1hr mark and continue until the lamp cuts off the power.

If you run the medium setting you should get over two hours without any problems. When using two cell set-ups it is always a good idea to only run the amount of light that is needed. Now if you are using a "cell holder" you can always carry a couple spare cells in your bag and have no need to worry about such things.


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## dmckiwi (Feb 3, 2011)

I might order a couple of cell holders and power cables and just make 2 units from some 3400 batteries, then I can just insulate the holders and carry a spare. It's unlikely that I will need much more than an hour so that will probably work well. 
I'll have a look on the weekend and work out what I need but worth a try with one of those X2 as should make a very light weight helmet setup.


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## leighaus (Aug 23, 2013)

just bought this :

Solarstorm 5000LM 2 Cree XM L U2 LED Front Bicycle Bike Headlight Headlamp Light | eBay

hopefully its got a half decent battery. Time will tell. should arrive in a couple of weeks (yay australia)


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

leighaus said:


> just bought this :
> 
> Solarstorm 5000LM 2 Cree XM L U2 LED Front Bicycle Bike Headlight Headlamp Light | eBay
> 
> hopefully its got a half decent battery. Time will tell. should arrive in a couple of weeks (yay australia)


Only 5000 lumen? LOL!


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## leighaus (Aug 23, 2013)

chinese lumens... im pretty sure it will be bright as hell... running time... gee, who knows.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

leighaus said:


> just bought this :
> 
> Solarstorm 5000LM 2 Cree XM L U2 LED Front Bicycle Bike Headlight Headlamp Light | eBay
> 
> hopefully its got a half decent battery. Time will tell. should arrive in a couple of weeks (yay australia)


We know it's Chinese lumens. Apparently it's also Chinese mAh. The advert says a 6600 battery -- Yea - Right -- At that price?

Oh look - they're throwing in a $2.00 tail light. Are they adding the mAh from the 2 x AAA batteries to get the 6600? Are the AAA batteries even included?

Sold in AU dollars - shipped from China. Overrated specs. Return policy is 30 days from date of order - 7 days from receipt. Looks like a typical Fleabay seller. Like Cat always says - read the fine print carefully.

Bought at FastTech (known retailer with good track record & reasonably accurate specs) using the BLF discount code would be $40.59.


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## ironbrewer (Oct 17, 2012)

Kir said:


> Well imo all chinese batteries are crap, even good ones will have 2000mAh cells inside.
> Its probably better to buy the light alone and the buy a holder + samsung 2600/panasonic 2900-3100-3400 cells for it.
> 8 4V 6600mAh Aluminum Shell Rechargeable Battery FOR XM L T6 LED Bike Headlight | eBay btw there is a holder for $16 shipped.


How are thee battery holders working out for those who have tried them? Are people using an external charger or leaving the cells in the case and charging them?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Ian_C said:


> We know it's Chinese lumens. Apparently it's also Chinese mAh. The advert says a 6600 battery -- Yea - Right -- At that price?
> 
> Oh look - they're throwing in a $2.00 tail light. Are they adding the mAh from the 2 x AAA batteries to get the 6600? Are the AAA batteries even included?
> 
> ...


I think most people know about the lumen and battery over rating issues. If the lamp is shipped from China you might get a decent battery. When I say decent I mean something around 3000 or > ( real )mah.
I just ordered an X2 as well from another Chinese website and it too will likely have a crap battery. I'll have a better return guarantee but have to wait 16 days to get it. Personally I'm not worried about the battery as I have better compatible batteries standing by.

@ leighaus ; Just make sure that when your lamp arrives that you do a run time test ( with fan ) to make sure all is good. ( If you get 2-2.5 hrs on high than you have an acceptable battery IMO ) No promises though on how long these batteries will hold up. Not unusual for a crap battery to last less than a year. If any immediate problems contact the seller ASAP and file a complaint with the e-smay people ASAP.


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## leighaus (Aug 23, 2013)

Will do cat, thanks. Happy to start modding if things go haywire


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## Lightfoot (Mar 18, 2013)

I received the SSX2 yesterday and it's the 8.4V 4 mode and black shrink wrapped batts. Haven't checked the duration of the battery as I just received two new batterys from Xeccon which were really quick in arrival and great service thanks to Leonard. Definitely a big difference in quality of the cells and workmanship between xeccon and the supplied batts with the ultrafire (clone) and X2. I noticed a difference between the two LED's in the SSX2 and i'm hoping its not a defect but that maybe the optics are different in each one to provide more spread or spot?? can anyone clarify that or should they be identical? Have i maybe got two different LED's?

has anyone swapped the optics if that is my issue? this lamp get way hotter than the ultrafire quad I bought.


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## Lightfoot (Mar 18, 2013)

So i had a better look and found that there is epoxy type stuff on the lense (is this heat sink goo?) and that is what reduced the light output. Some has discoloured as you can see, i'm assuming from heat....?

Contacted seller but not holding much hope. You can see that from the pic the top screw just sheared off leaving the thread stuck in without much force at all. So I tried to clean the epoxy off but succeeded in chipping the clear lense material over the led and now the lamp doesn't work at all. dow!!!

Could i buy a replacement LED and solder it in as a replacement and if i can what else could i improve while i'm in there?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Wow! I'm amazed you got everything apart! Was it easy to disassemble?

Anyway, I was going to say that it you can careful remove the glue from the emitter dome ( without scratching or removing the dome ) you might get full output. Sadly, welcome to the world of Chinese quality control. 

Since you got it all apart looks like it might be easy to mod.


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## leighaus (Aug 23, 2013)

Eugh... What a mess. QC at it's finest.


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## Lightfoot (Mar 18, 2013)

Easy to get apart aside from the screw snapping just a phillips head screwdriver and small pliers - 5 min max
I sent pic of beams but i don't want to send the internal pic to the supplier in case he just says i stuffed it by taking it apart when that isn't the case.

What are your thoughts on the discolouration of the goo.?
is it possible that the goo made its way onto the globe after i started using it or is it more likely to have been that way when produced by sloppy workmanship.
I'd like to send him the pic of the lens with crap all over it to prove my point.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Lightfoot said:


> Easy to get apart aside from the screw snapping just a phillips head screwdriver and small pliers - 5 min max
> I sent pic of beams but i don't want to send the internal pic to the supplier in case he just says i stuffed it by taking it apart when that isn't the case.
> 
> *What are your thoughts on the discolouration of the goo.?
> ...


The discoloration is probably from the heat. I figure the goo was there from the git-go. They might have used it to help keep the reflector from moving, hard to know for sure but very obviously they used too much. Since it is contacting the emitter dome that is not good for two reasons, one...it blocks light, two...it holds heat close to the dome. If not removed the emitter will eventually discolor or just burn out. The sooner the stuff is removed from the dome the better.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

I'll agree with Cat that the goo was there from sloppy assembly. It is very likely that replacing the LED will get it going again. When the dome was damaged in attempting to remove the contamination it probably broke one of the bond wires to the die. That's not repairable. If the reflector is contaminated it may be hard to clean without damage. Often the reflective coating is soft and thin and easily damaged. Just rubbing with a q-tip soaked in alcohol will scratch the coating and sometimes even remove it. Finding a suitable (ie. exact) repacement may be difficult.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

The regular X2 use xm-l? Is that right? Here's one (or clone) that uses xm-l2
Aliexpress.com : Buy Free shipping SolarStorm 2x CREE XM L2 T6 3B LED Bicycle bike HeadLight Headlamp Light 8000mAh battery pack from Reliable bikelight suppliers on Shenzhen Great Wall Technology Co., Ltd.

It's also more expensive at $57.49. Gotta love the dirty alley beamshot. Looks pretty good though.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

The circuit boards are white, in that new version of the X2. That IS the signature of an XM-L2. Nice pix of the guts too. The retailer seems to know the things we want to see.

Same seller as the "Fixed D-99" that Kir posted. Same brightness & color bins too.

I wonder if that seller is specifying L2s to its suppliers, or if the L2 is just becoming much more widely used? Hope to see other sellers with them soon (FastTech are you listening?)


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Ian_C said:


> The circuit boards are white, in that new version of the X2. That IS the signature of an XM-L2. Nice pix of the guts too. The retailer seems to know the things we want to see.
> 
> Same seller as the "Fixed D-99" that Kir posted. Same brightness & color bins too.
> 
> I wonder if that seller is specifying L2s to its suppliers, or if the L2 is just becoming much more widely used? Hope to see other sellers with them soon (FastTech are you listening?)


Yes, I noticed the same things. Also the emitters are mounted on copper cores...which is also a big plus. If you switch between the the two links ( "Convoli" D99 clone and X2 clone ) both show a photo beam shot done in the same alley. The X2 version looks brighter and has more spill.

I have to wonder though if they are both using the same driver. On the D99 clone the mid-level output list 30%. That's not particularly good because I doubt any of these lamps are really driving the lamp as hard as they could.

Anyway, a real shame because the Convoli D99's are really nice looking lamps. All things considered, the Convoli X2 clone looks like it has better output. If you are looking for a bar lamp with a warmer tint ( not super warm but medium warm ) then you should really like these. The ad's say these emitters are in the 5000K range, very much like the torch drop-in I have. Still, some people who like a brighter white would probably prefer the Xm-L U2's. There is a brighter bin Xm-L2 ( in the 6500K range ). I've not seen one of those yet but I bet they are awesome.

Dang it, I really would like to see one of these Convoli X2's in person. Unfortunately I'm not Kir. I can only affford to buy so many throw away toys. :smilewinkgrin:

P.S. I also expect to see more vendors selling these real soon. This is probably why the other lamps are dropping in price. Right now the market is over-saturated with X2 clones. Other than the cheap-o batteries they come with these lamps are super deals.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

Cat-man-do said:


> I have to wonder though if they are both using the same driver. On the D99 clone the mid-level output list 30%. That's not particularly good because I doubt any of these lamps are really driving the lamp as hard as they could.


Definately not the same driver. Look at the boards in the two adverts. The X2 driver is way more complex.

In Kir's original look at the X2 (approx calcs), Low=21% - Med=65%.

If (and I know it's a big IF) they only swapped the LEDs & didn't change the driver, the X2 - XM-L2 T6 3B version, should have pretty good mode spacing.

I've got the original version and found all the modes very useable. Even on Low people (like security guards) stop me and ask about it because it's so bright. I've even gotten envious looks from the cops on bikes.

In June when the flood in Calgary took out power to a large chunk of downtown and other parts of the city, I was wandering through the blackout area. (Shed a tear for my car submerged to 4 inches up the back of the seats.) With 100,000 people evacuated (across all the various flooded & blacked out neighbourhoods), the area was crawling with endlessly circling bike cops. I thought how pittiful their lights looked in comparison to mine.


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## ironbrewer (Oct 17, 2012)

varider said:


> The regular X2 use xm-l? Is that right? Here's one (or clone) that uses xm-l2
> Aliexpress.com : Buy Free shipping SolarStorm 2x CREE XM L2 T6 3B LED Bicycle bike HeadLight Headlamp Light 8000mAh battery pack from Reliable bikelight suppliers on Shenzhen Great Wall Technology Co., Ltd.
> 
> It's also more expensive at $57.49. Gotta love the dirty alley beamshot. Looks pretty good though.


I love that they say is a 8000 mAh battery pack. I'm guessing that it runs at 7.4 volts. What single 18650 is 4000 mAhs.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Ian_C said:


> Definately not the same driver. Look at the boards in the two adverts. The X2 driver is way more complex.
> 
> In Kir's original look at the X2 (approx calcs), Low=21% - Med=65%.
> 
> ...


Very good. Since I have a U2 version of the X2 on order I'm really hoping that one; it is as usable as I think it is and two; that it is easy to mod.

@ ironbrewer: Yeah, I know what you mean. BS lumen claims and BS battery claims...what are ya going do?  For the folks that know the limitations of emitters and batteries it's not really a big issue but you have to feel sorry for others who don't know as much.


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## find_bruce (May 8, 2011)

Cat-man-do said:


> @ ironbrewer: Yeah, I know what you mean. BS lumen claims and BS battery claims...what are ya going do?  For the folks that know the limitations of emitters and batteries it's not really a big issue but you have to feel sorry for others who don't know as much.


You forgot BS current, BS run times and .... it is the snake oil of the modern era


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

It is for quite a good price now the head only on lightsmall :thumbsup:


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

MK96 said:


> It is for quite a good price now the head only on lightsmall


Great price. It does have three modes (Low Mid High), unlike the Ali light head only.

In reading the Light Malls add one thing jumped out at me. It says the flash mode is SOS. The one I have is a slow flash. That might imply a different driver or a clone.

I did check with LightMalls online "live support." The support rep said it was a slow flash not SOS. He has corrected the specifications on their web page.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Jud6yolas said:


> It comes with the typical 4x18650 battery pack of unknown quality.


They couldn't say it clearer:


> 4*18650 bttery pack(Not Included)





> SolarStorm X2 2U2 2000LM Led Bike Light head - Black(*Head Lamp Only*)


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes I think so, the price is unbeatable  If the specs are with slow flash perhaps i would go for 2 of the and mod it with wide angle lense, xm-l2 u2 bins and slightly change the current sense resistor to give it more juice 



Ian_C said:


> Great price. It does have three modes (Low Mid High), unlike the Ali light head only.
> 
> In reading the Light Malls add one thing jumped out at me. It says the flash mode is SOS. The one I have is a slow flash. That might imply a different driver or a clone.
> 
> I did check with LightMalls online "live support." The support rep said it was a slow flash not SOS. He has corrected the specifications on their web page.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Ian_C said:


> Great price. It does have three modes (Low Mid High), unlike the Ali light head only.
> 
> In reading the Light Malls add one thing jumped out at me. It says the flash mode is SOS. The one I have is a slow flash. That might imply a different driver or a clone.
> 
> I did check with LightMalls online "live support." The support rep said it was a slow flash not SOS. He has corrected the specifications on their web page.


They must have fixed the ad. Now says, "slow flash". The key here is that the lamp has the original Solorstorm markings. Always a good sign it is like the originals. If I had seen this ad I would have ordered from light malls and saved $10. If I get a decent battery than I made out. We'll see. Great link though for the "light head only". Hard to beat that price.


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## Lightfoot (Mar 18, 2013)

update: I would avoid any light from this manufacturer

Shenzhen EF Lighting Sci&Tech Co., Ltd 

poor quality and service


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## gopherhockey (Jun 3, 2004)

Kir said:


> $14.79 Panasonic NCR18650B Rechargeable 3400mAh 3.7V 18650 Lithium Batteries 2-pack - authentic cells / 2-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
> You need these batteries to fit in that battery pack.
> Also these batteries have to be discharged to 2.7v to get full capacity out of them, not sure it that battery pack protection circuit will allow that...will test that a bit later.


(beginner question alert)

So I got the battery pack, the batteries, and have an iMAX B6 charger. The pack has no balancing cable, just a magicshine style cable.

I assume the idea isn't to just throw the NCR18650Bs into the pack and just charge away, but some pre-work is needed to get the most out of the new pack.

Do I need some other kind of case to put these batteries in to get them discharged to 2.7v and/or otherwise "balanced" properly before use? It doesn't appear the pack has the necessary connections/smarts:

4 x 18650 Battery Set for Bicycle Light-in Charger from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com

Sorry this might have been better posted in the battery thread... but maybe helps others putting this same pack together for the Solarstorm-style lights.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

*gopherhocke*, just fully charge all of your new cells one-by-one before putting them to the battery box. You don't need to discharge them first. But you may want to do that in order to measure their actual capacity.

2.7V mentioned by *Kir* is just lower discharge voltage allowed for these cells, but many protection PCBs may disconnect the cell around 3.0V level, thus reducing available capacity.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Lightfoot said:


> update: I would avoid any light from this manufacturer
> 
> Shenzhen EF Lighting Sci&Tech Co., Ltd
> 
> poor quality and service


And why is that, got bad batch with low capacity blue batteries?

You, like most people here (and me actually before I started my project with bike lights reviews) don't understand how this system works.
These sellers on aliexpress - they're NOT the manufacturers, they're just that - sellers. They (well, most of them - there are some expections) will buy batches of lights from different factories and will sell what they can find at cheapest price.
What's even worse is that the factories are the same, they will make lights from the stuff that they have in hand and they usually don't care about quality.
Basically buying all these cheap lights is always a lottery and you can't predict what you will get.

I bought about 8 SSX2s from Shenzhen EF Lighting Sci&Tech Co., Ltd and already got *_3_* different versions with different drivers, different batteries, even different cardboard boxes. Two batches were good, one batch had bad batteries. I don't know about the drivers and current draw/current on leds, haven't measured all this stuff yet - but they all work fine.
I'll post SSX2 review soon after receiving a few more samples and I'll compare all the different versions there.

And btw - this is also why its pointless to read any descriptions, talk about advertised "U2 leds", "sos or strobe", battery capacities and all that stuff. You will get what you will get and it may not be what you expected or what was written in store's page or aliexpress listing.
This is how it works with cheap chinese lights, unfortunately 

EDIT: Read this thread on fasttech, especially replies by geek (one of owners of the site) about consistency and quality control:
https://www.fasttech.com/forums/feedback/t/1013052/real-problem-fraudulent-pictures-not-being-addr
Its not about bike lights, but its basically the same and can be applied to any cheap chinese mass produced stuff.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Kir said:


> Imo you really need to make your own battery for SSX2 (or buy a good battery made from 2600mAh cells), chinese batteries don't offer enough capacity for it.


Personally I use for about a year rc lipo with indicators, alarms and protection setup with my 3 XML and I ordered 2 SS X2 heads from lightmalls to power them also with rc lipo setup. Kir did you try higher voltage to power the SS X2? I mean try not the 2S but also 3S or 4S?



varider said:


> The regular X2 use xm-l? Is that right? Here's one (or clone) that uses xm-l2
> It's also more expensive at $57.49. Gotta love the dirty alley beamshot. Looks pretty good though.


Now it is about 80$  min. order 3 pcs


Lightfoot said:


> update: I would avoid any light from this manufacturer
> Shenzhen EF Lighting Sci&Tech Co., Ltd
> poor quality and service


Why? Do you mean the lightmalls seller or the vendor that produces them?

OT: celebrating post no. 99 :thumbsup:


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Lightfoot said:


> Easy to get apart aside from the screw snapping just a phillips head screwdriver and small pliers - 5 min max
> I sent pic of beams but i don't want to send the internal pic to the supplier in case he just says i stuffed it by taking it apart when that isn't the case.
> 
> What are your thoughts on the discolouration of the goo.?
> ...


Just took a look on previous page.
You're not supposed to be able to remove led's pill like this!
https://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/l...torm-fandyfire-x2-2013-08-24_15-50-04_921.jpg
This pill should be press-fitted/glued to the case, it provides thermal path for heat from led to the case.
Your "goo" is just a melted plastic spacer like this one:
$1.37 Insulation Gaskets for Cree XM-L T6 LED Emitters (10-Pack) 10-pack - 7mm opening / 16mm diameter / 0.5mm thickness / insulation & location function at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Led's pill probably got loose in your light (manufacturing defect), reflector alone couldn't push it to the case hard enough and the led overheated while melting this plastic spacer. You can replace the led but you should somehow glue/press pill into case.
Also don't run this light on high without active air cooling (switch to low when not moving on bike) - it has a very, very lightweight case and overheats very easily. I don't like the look of the 2nd led in your light, looks like spacer is melted there too.

And about this light from ali - its just a SSX2 with new leds, nothing special about it. If you have a soldering iron and a $10 to buy 2 of these:
$4.05 Cree XM-L2 T6-3B 10W 1100LM 5000-5200K Neutral White LED Emitter on 16mm Base Plate at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
you can make it yourself, and much cheaper than $82.
Also its convoy, not convoli


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## gopherhockey (Jun 3, 2004)

varider said:


> The regular X2 use xm-l? Is that right? Here's one (or clone) that uses xm-l2
> Aliexpress.com : Buy Free shipping SolarStorm 2x CREE XM L2 T6 3B LED Bicycle bike HeadLight Headlamp Light 8000mAh battery pack from Reliable bikelight suppliers on Shenzhen Great Wall Technology Co., Ltd.
> 
> It's also more expensive at $57.49. Gotta love the dirty alley beamshot. Looks pretty good though.


They now appear to be $82.13. Must have gotten popular enough to raise the price over the last few days&#8230;


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Kir, thanks for all that feed back. Hard to believe that a thermal spacing gasket could melt like that but I suppose it shouldn't surprise me. Possibly they substituted a cheaper gasket that couldn't handle the heat. The D99 I had used hard plastic O-rings as spacers, nothing like the big ones you linked to I'm glad to say.

I agree with your other comments as well. You never know when parts are going to substituted out. This doesn't mean you will get something that won't work but there might be unexpected changes that you might not like.

A while back I ordered a lamp ( not a X2 ) that was supposed to be 3-modes and got one that only had two. Than again when a driver is switched out there is no way to know unless you know what was originally suppose to be in the lamp.

All said, when this happens it usually happens to products that have suddenly gotten popular and the stock of the item quickly runs out. This probably brings about a rush to restore stock and when stock parts run out they look for quick sub-standard replacements ( rather than the OEM parts originally used ) At least this is my opinion on the subject.



Kir said:


> ...Also its convoy, not convoli ...


Oh bloody hell, you mean this isn't the Italian version? How could I have been so wrong?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

I have exactly the same experience with buying supposedly-identical lights from East. You'll never know what you get until you'll disassemble & check it...


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Quick update, 3rd version of SSX2 from Shenzhen EF Lighting.
Differences: screws are now cross/philips type, previous versions had hex screws. Driver pcb is now green (it was black before) and soldering looks worse.
Black shrinkwrapped batteries again, but this time with 2700mAh capacity (1st batch had 3000-3800mAh batteries, 2nd had blue batteries with ~1700mAh capacity).
Waiting for more samples from another sellers...


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## shrigg (Oct 4, 2006)

Just ordered a SolarStorm X2 Cree XM-L U2 from FastTech. Looking forward to checking out the QC


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## Lightfoot (Mar 18, 2013)

I was probably both rash and ignorant of the process over there in my 'don't buy an light from these guys' so thanks for setting me straight. As you can imagine I'm just frustrated because of the workmanship and service. I know I know, get what you pay for etc and I did expect to buy a new battery for it but I hoped the lamp would at least arrive working correctly and maybe last a year.
I'm realistic and on a very tight budget so I went out on a limb and got burned. Nothing more frustrating than trying to explain what went wrong to someone with very poor English and me with no chinese. or maybe they understand perfectly!

I'll look into soldering in a new pill, in your opinion Kir would the LED you listed be the best option for replacement. Also what's the best thing for connecting the pill to the body? jb weld would conduct heat well as it is epoxy with metal filings in it and is heat resistant. Anything else I should do to improve it while I'm in there?

On the heat issue, I didn't run the X2 stationary only the ultrafire x4 which hardly heats up at all in comparison. The X2 has heat protection (drops down when hot) as well.

anyway lessons learned


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Lightfoot said:


> I'll look into soldering in a new pill, in your opinion Kir would the LED you listed be the best option for replacement. Also what's the best thing for connecting the pill to the body? jb weld would conduct heat well as it is epoxy with metal filings in it and is heat resistant. Anything else I should do to improve it while I'm in there?


Kir listed an XM-L2 - so you'd probably change them both to be correct. The best is to apply some thermal grease e.g. arctic silver or something similiar.


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## Lightfoot (Mar 18, 2013)

MK96 said:


> Kir listed an XM-L2 - so you'd probably change them both to be correct. The best is to apply some thermal grease e.g. arctic silver or something similiar.


Would I epoxy the pill to hold it in and thermal grease the edges? how would I hold it in firm to prevent the same issue reoccurring. and do I need the thermal gasket that melted on mine?
Kirs' listing was 16mm, I just measured the pill and it's 20mm.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I would buy 20mm (if the 20mm is original, 16mm may be too small), if you want to change just one, buy some 20mm XM-L U2 (fasttech, lightmalls, dx, kd, ... whatever and where ever you find the right one). Since I do not have my lights yet, I cannot say how to fix them. Epoxy or solder at 2-3 points may be OK with some thermal grease. I am not sure but you can use instead of melting gasket high temperature (300 degree Celsius) silicone.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

that is the one that melted probably, but as I said, you can go to high temp silicone. There are also some emitters at CNQG site .


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## calzone (Oct 15, 2005)

mrbubbles said:


> Has any tried the new MT-U2?
> 
> $40.00 MT-U2 2*Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 1500-Lumen White LED Bike Head Light - black + blue / 1*battery pack (4*18650/3200mAh/2S2P) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
> 
> It's got less sharp edges.


Just got one of these. Black battery pack, cannnot say anything about capacity yet. The lamp quality seems good, here are my current draw measurements (external PSU, stabilized 8.4V):

max mode: 2.13 A (2130 mA), 
mid mode: .85 A (850 mA), fluctuates from 0.8 to 0.9
min mode: .03A (30 ma), fluctuates from 0.025 to 0.035

So there is plenty of light in max mode, lamp is getting very hot quickly.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Nice one, and the draw at 7.4V - regular li-ion/-pol working voltage? Is the min mode like parking lights = .03A too low to see anything  ?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Now is the famous battery pack for 13$ at lightmalls


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

*WOO WHOO!* Postman came knocking today. I now have my SS X2 clone in my hot little hands. A quick run-through with the light shining down my hallway looks VERY favorable. Output on all three steady levels *MORE* than meets my expectations. The driver must really be pumping the juice, this thing gets hot fast.

Anyway, mine was purchased from Manafont. I think it took about 10-12 days to get to me. Not bad. Usually takes 16 days. No time for more details I have to get to work. Hopefully I'll get a chance tonight to shine it around outside if I can fine a nice dark spot. I have a feeling that it is really going to have a nice usable beam pattern.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I am still waiting for my 2 SS X2 heads from lightmalls  I'll post some numbers here when they arrive.


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## calzone (Oct 15, 2005)

MK96 said:


> Nice one, and the draw at 7.4V - regular li-ion/-pol working voltage? Is the min mode like parking lights = .03A too low to see anything  ?


For 7.4V it draws 1.35A. Now this is highly subjective, but mid mode is like 50% and min mode something like 15-20% (there is some useful amount of light).


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Interesting that it draws less at 7.4V than at 8.4V. Then it could work with 3S setup = 3 x 3.7V li-ion and would be much brighter than at 2S setup = 2 x 3.7V.



calzone said:


> For 7.4V it draws 1.35A. Now this is highly subjective, but mid mode is like 50% and min mode something like 15-20% (there is some useful amount of light).


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> Anyway, mine was purchased from Manafont. I think it took about 10-12 days to get to me. Not bad. Usually takes 16 days. No time for more details I have to get to work. Hopefully I'll get a chance tonight to shine it around outside if I can fine a nice dark spot. I have a feeling that it is really going to have a nice usable beam pattern.


You should open up the backside and check led's pills - I just received manafront version too and pills are not fixed to the case unlike in other SSX2 versions that I have. If they're loose too - open it from the front and add some thermal paste between pills and the case.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

MK96 said:


> Now is the famous battery pack for 13$ at lightmalls


$17.31 with shipping, not worth it.


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## leighaus (Aug 23, 2013)

Got my ss x2 today. So much smaller than I was expecting..the output is amazing...it does get hot quick stationary though. Black battery pack. Happy as. Can't wait to test it at night. 

It's brighter than the $200 job a bloke was trying to sell me at the lbs .


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

leighaus said:


> Got my ss x2 today. So much smaller than I was expecting..the output is amazing...it does get hot quick stationary though. Black battery pack. Happy as. Can't wait to test it at night.
> 
> It's brighter than the $200 job a bloke was trying to sell me at the lbs .


Yep, I'm very pleased with mine. Last night I took it out and on a very dark section of road I stopped and was shining it around. Very, very impressive. It's so bright on high that it might actually be brighter than my Glowworm X2 but since this is my first initial impression of the lamp I'll reserve the final judgement till I can take both out at the same time and do some comparisons.

I will say one thing, it has lots of throw for a small two emitter lamp. It's also very light-weight and might make an interesting helmet lamp. If I get a chance I need to take it out onto something like a football field so I can get a better idea of the distance throw.

What I found most pleasing about the lamp was the variance in output for each of the modes. The low is very, very useable. Mid mode is about perfect and yes, there is significant difference between mid and high.

Mine does/did have a minor problem though. When in the off mode a couple time mine did some random emitter flashing. Only did it a couple times and has been fine since. I'm not too worried about it. I have a Gloworm X2 that did the same thing when I first got it over a year ago and have not had a problem with it since.

When I got home tonight I wanted to take a ride to see what it looked like on the bike but I was just too tired. Only got about 4hrs sleep the other night. :yawn:

I think someone else mentioned that the strobe mode on these were slower than most of the other cheap lamps. I can concur with that. I actually wish it was a little slower but it is usable as is. At least it's not one of those hyper-strobes that you see on most of the cheap Chinese made lamps. These you can actually use but since it's so bright I don't think I would use it except in the day time and then only for short duration.



Kir said:


> You should open up the backside and check led's pills - I just received manafront version too and pills are not fixed to the case unlike in other SSX2 versions that I have. If they're loose too - open it from the front and add some thermal paste between pills and the case.


Eventually I'll tinker with it but since the thermal transfer seems to be fairly quick I'll not mess with it right away. After some initial tests I'll likely take a look at the insides to see whats up.


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## leighaus (Aug 23, 2013)

My strobe is probably a bit too fast and honestly at that brightness it's just dazzling. I'll use my cheap single led light for any streets whilst commuting.

I just took it out in the dark. It lit up most of the large gumtree like it was in direct sunlight. The spread is actually quite nice. I honestly can't see this light lasting an hour on high though and the heat generated will need constant airflow to prevent damage. Time will tell.


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## shrigg (Oct 4, 2006)

Cat-man-do said:


> Kir said:
> 
> 
> > You should open up the backside and check led's pills - I just received manafront version too and pills are not fixed to the case unlike in other SSX2 versions that I have. If they're loose too - open it from the front and add some thermal paste between pills and the case.
> ...


I have a FastTech SSx2 arriving soon and I want to make sure everything is in good working order as far as pill seating, thermal transfer, etc. If someone can post the step by step process on how to do this and perhaps other things to "improve" the x2's I'd be very grateful! :thumbsup:


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## gopherhockey (Jun 3, 2004)

Is there a place one can order lights from that won't take months to ship? I placed an Ali order a while back (a month as of tomorrow), they are still in China. I placed a Fasttech order that seems to be stuck in Hong Kong. Its night riding season and here I thought I was planning ahead…. :madman:


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Here in Europe, orders from Chinese web shops are typically delivered within 2 to 4 weeks, except for Christmas/New Year time, but some of them have overseas warehouses, too - then you can obtain goods significantly faster.

For example, DeaExtreme had stores on USA, United Kingdom and Australia:
US & UK Warehouse Built- 3 Day Shipping Now Possible ? DealExtreme Forum
Overseas Warehouses in the UK and US Completed | DealExtreme Blog

Currently I can't locate information about two of them anymore, either because of abandoned service or web site rearrangement (due to move to new DX name), while Australian store seems to be still functional:
Why AU Direct?

Check if you'll find similar service on other shops. Also, many of them offer faster delivery by courier company instead of plain post, but it adds some numbers to your invoice...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

*Road shootout: Solarstorm X2 vs. Gloworm X2*

Took my first ride with the SS X2 tonight. Since my road bike was already prepped I took it out for a quickie 8 miler. Not sure this is a fair comparison because my GW was set on the lowest output menu setting ( Adventure menu ) but should still be good enough to do some beam pattern comparisons.

The first thing that was most notable is the difference in beam pattern. Switching back and forth between the lamps it was clear that the Solarstorm X2 had a more narrow/forward throwing beam pattern. This translated into a brighter center area which is really quite useful. This was most noticeable on the lowest setting. On the low setting the SS easily beat out the GW but like I mentioned before the GW has a brighter available low setting on the other menus ( which I didn't use ).

When comparing the mid and high settings there was more parity. The Gloworm has more spread so the beam pattern is more dispersed ( even with the spot/spot optics I use ) Since the output is higher there is no problems seeing although the Solarstorm still has a slightly brighter center area which clearly looks brighter when viewing objects in the distance. The Gloworm on the other hand had better peripheral spill.

Judging from this first ride I would think the Solarstorm X2 would provide the superior beam pattern for road use. This is not to say that I would prefer the SS over the Gloworm X2 for road use. The GW has too many nice features ( multi-menu, wired remote, off-set mounting ) for me to be willing to give up. Still, if I consider all the lamps I own the Solarstorm X2 and it's duel reflectors provide the best over-all beam pattern for road use. On the other hand for mountain biking I'd give the edge to the Gloworm X2.

While using the Solarstorm tonight I did have some minor problems. My handlebars are tapered. This made aiming the lamp a bit of a problem. If I moved it closer to the center the fins would touch the stem bolts. Next time I might need to add some rubber shimming to make it sit more evenly. I also had to put some electrical tape over the voltage indicators because the dang things are bright. Nice to have voltage indicators but I wish they weren't so distracting. No problems changing modes with the SS even though you have to cycle through "off" when you start changing modes. Really, this was not a major issue. "Strobe" is a press and hold thing so you don't have to deal with that if you don't want to.

Other than those minor issues I really liked how the Solarstorm X2 performed. I haven't tried the "included" battery yet. I'll try to get around to doing that by next week.

Tomorrow night I'll likely take a MTB ride and try the Solarstorm out on the bars and helmet. Can't wait to see how it works on the helmet.


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## decrea1 (Sep 6, 2013)

Do these plugs on these lamps work with the Magic Shine batteries?







Looks like it, but wanted to know before pulling the trigger on one.Edit found my answer by actually reading the thread.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

decrea1 said:


> Do these plugs on these lamps work with the Magic Shine batteries?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


They do fit, but MagicShine doesn't use the screw lock design that SolarStorm is using so the connectors will not lock together in quite the same way. Depending on the particular MagicShine connector you may be able to push them together such that the o-ring holds them pretty tight.


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## mrbubbles (Apr 9, 2007)

$51.18 YINDING 2*Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 1800-Lumen White LED Bike Light / Headlamp - 1*battery pack (4*18650 / 4400mAh / 2S2P) / US plug at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

This light is very clean looking. I swear I saw somebody made a diy machined housing like this years ago.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Wow, with some of these light head only options to be in the mid $30 to low $40, anyone with a bit of DIY skills can mod them with better drivers, etc and have a very bright light for under $100.

Hmmmmm....


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

kwarwick said:


> They do fit, but MagicShine doesn't use the screw lock design that SolarStorm is using so the connectors will not lock together in quite the same way. Depending on the particular MagicShine connector you may be able to push them together such that the o-ring holds them pretty tight.
> 
> View attachment 830449


Yes, the connectors do work with the MS type connectors. I tried pushing the screw sleeve over the MS female connector ( non-threaded ) and found that it actually holds the connection very well.

@pucked up: Yeah the DIY'ers will love these lamps but don't assume they are not good enough to use right out of the box. If you want a better product you might consider buying a Gloworm X2....and speaking of Gloworm, rumor is Gloworm will be releasing their new stuff pretty soon.


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## Brooks04 (Jun 1, 2004)

Kir said:


> Well imo all chinese batteries are crap, even good ones will have 2000mAh cells inside.
> Its probably better to buy the light alone and the buy a holder + samsung 2600/panasonic 2900-3100-3400 cells for it.
> 8 4V 6600mAh Aluminum Shell Rechargeable Battery FOR XM L T6 LED Bike Headlight | eBay btw there is a holder for $16 shipped.


Do these shells use button top or flat top cells or does it matter?


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Brooks04 said:


> Do these shells use button top or flat top cells or does it matter?


I believe unprotected flat tops from earlier postings.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Cat-man-do said:


> Yeah the DIY'ers will love these lamps but don't assume they are not good enough to use right out of the box.


Personally I would not use one of the cheapo lights without disassembling and reworking any deficiencies first.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes that is true 



Vancbiker said:


> Personally I would not use one of the cheapo lights without disassembling and reworking any deficiencies first.


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## xaxadj (Oct 9, 2011)

Has anyone seen this?
SolarStorm X3 3 x Cree XM-L T6 2000lm 4-Mode White Bike Light - Deep Pink (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

I don't know how the third led in the middle will perform in comparison with the other two because the reflector seems to be a little wider. I'm thinking about buying the SSX2 but I need a light for trailriding and I'm reading all about throw that this light has, although I prefer more floody beam like the P7 I have right now...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

*Solarstorm X2 ; Helmet test*

Tonight I took a Trail ( mountain bike ) ride with the SS X2 on the helmet. As usually my Gloworm X2 was on the bars but this time running the brighter "Trail Programme".

First thing I noticed was that my Gloworm ( on the bars ) had much better output than last night while the Solarstorm X2 was working real well on the helmet. Definitely the SS X2 has more throw vs. the GW X2. Not by much but still better. As such it makes a decent helmet lamp and better than the GW when used on the helmet.

It's quite amazing how well the beam pattern spreads out with the SS. Regardless I got a chance to put it to the test and found that it could illuminate very well in the 200ft. range. *_When comparing both the GW and the SS in the 200 ft. range both worked very well but the SS with it's more focused beam was noticeably brighter at distance. _
( *note: I should mention that my GW X2 on my mountain bike is set-up with one spot/one standard/medium optic. As such the GW was not only bright but had a superior beam pattern when used on the bars. )

With both lamps going at the same time I had an absolutely perfect amount of light. Even with both lamps on low I could see great. The Solarstorm continues to impress me with it's bright LOW MODE. Even in LOW it has considerable reach.

Toward the end of my ride tonight I rode a short section of straight gravel road that I used to do beam shots on. I stopped at the usual spot and took my helmet off. There I did some quick comparisons by holding the helmet at bar level. Very impressive how well the Solarstorm X2 lights things up at that 200 ft range. This surprises me because the light at that range is quite dispersed. Even so I could still see very well. The only other lamp I own that can beat it for intensity is the Xeccon X-12 but the X-12 has a much more confined and narrow beam pattern. As such it is not as useful when dealing with trails that are twisty, have shorter lines of sight and offer more dangerous trail features . On trails like those a helmet lamp with wider beam pattern is preferable. ( IMO )



xaxadj said:


> Has anyone seen this?
> SolarStorm X3 3 x Cree XM-L T6 2000lm 4-Mode White Bike Light - Deep Pink (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
> 
> I don't know how the third led in the middle will perform in comparison with the other two because the reflector seems to be a little wider. I'm thinking about buying the SSX2 but I need a light for trailriding and I'm reading all about throw that this light has, although I prefer more floody beam like the P7 I have right now...


yes, those triples have been talked about. I hope to be able to get one to review. The original link that I used listed the lamp as using a 6A driver. The one on the link that you provided is only listing 3A.

I think the SS X2 would make a good bar lamp. If you think you want more side spill you might consider one of the D99 clones that use optics. Optics generally supply a wider more dispersed beam pattern. They are also available in XM-L U2 and XM-L2 so they should be almost as good as the Solarstorm's ( as long as they are not under-driven ). Either way, these duel XM-L lamps will beat the pants off a single P-7 lamp with flood lens. :yesnod:

The Solarstorm triple listing a 6A driver should have a fantastic output. As far as I know no one has one yet but if I get one I want the 6A version. Be careful ordering from D/X as they offer different versions of the same lamp. Read the product descriptions carefully.


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## z1ppy (Nov 15, 2006)

I bought the SSX2 from Manafont and the output is seemingly impressive, only tried it quickly last week & haven't compared it to my other lights, but the battery as per Kir earlier posts is only good for around 40mins on high. Little lost as to whether I can complain to Manafont, as the advert doesn't include any spec on the battery or runtimes (yes I knew it would probably be poor quality) or if it's even worth returning. I'm tempted to take the plastic cover off to see if it was assembled correctly, as it's charge time is only around 2-3hrs (I've tested it 3 times to confirm), but obviously I can't return it, if I do that. Any thoughts?

I am tempted to try the Ali case and swap the battery connector, as I like the screw up connector. Saying that I have an old MS plastic battery case I may take to pieces first and see how difficult it would be to replace the batteries with better ones.

Anyone got any runtimes for a 4400 battery pack? As I am considering buying a high capacity battery pack, if you can't get 2 hrs on full from the 'std' one


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## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

Cat,

Nice review. It's always good to have another light to compare/contrast with. Let us know when you do a runtime test. Refresh my memory as to where you ordered from again?


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## Lindgren (Sep 8, 2013)

I've Just ordered one of these Solarstorm X3 with XM-L U2 LEDs yesterday.
It comes with a 8,4V 6400mAh battery pack. 

It will probably arrive in about 2-4 weeks i guess.
If everything is in order, i will be glad to post some photos of the beam, finish, output, etc.. 
Unfortunately i don't have the right equipment to measure voltage, lumen output, amps and so on, to make a serious test of the bike light.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

The DX pack is reviewed here - not a smart choice if you don't like DIY 



z1ppy said:


> I am tempted to try the Ali case and swap the battery connector, as I like the screw up connector. Saying that I have an old MS plastic battery case I may take to pieces first and see how difficult it would be to replace the batteries with better ones.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

z1ppy said:


> ...Anyone got any runtimes for a 4400 battery pack? As I am considering buying a high capacity battery pack, if you can't get 2 hrs on full from the 'std' one


I was using my Xeccon 4400 pack last night while using the SS X2. I basically did a two hour ride but wasn't using the high mode too much because I wasn't sure if the battery was fully charged. Anyway when I got back to the car only one of the battery indicators had gone out ( out of three )

I'm preparing a test for the supplied Manafont battery as I write. If you only got 40 minutes that is not promising. It should of at least gotten somewhere around 1.25 hr on high, even with a crap battery. I'm a little worried because yesterday I charged the battery and just now I plugged it back in and the indicator shows that it's charging again. Not a good sign. ...okay...it stopped charging ( just a couple minutes ). I suppose it must of self-balanced last night and needed a small top off charge.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

MK96 said:


> The DX pack is reviewed here - not a smart choice if you don't like DIY


What's wrong with that pack? And BTW, it's not "DX", but real MJ-828 battery of good quality...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Update from my last post: @ z1ppy, mine ran 57 minutes before the first indicator went out. That's a good sign. Judging from that I should get close to 2hrs but we'll see. Time to get ready for work.

*edit...Shut off at 1hr and 35 minutes. After that first light went out it dropped out real quick. Not much spacing with the indicators.


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## gopherhockey (Jun 3, 2004)

MK96 said:


> Now is the famous battery pack for 13$ at lightmalls


I just put 4 brand new balanced batteries in the "famous" battery pack.. (got mine from Ali, maybe that is the issue) and nothing&#8230; doesn't power any of my lights. What a waste.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Knowing the quality we've come to expect from these lights, its likely you've got a bad connection or maybe a broken wire after taking it apart. I would start by putting the original batteries back in and see if it works. A multi-meter is going to be your friend in tracking down the problem.


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## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

Cat-man-do said:


> Update from my last post: @ z1ppy, mine ran 57 minutes before the first indicator went out. That's a good sign. Judging from that I should get close to 2hrs but we'll see. Time to get ready for work.
> 
> *edit...Shut off at 1hr and 35 minutes. After that first light went out it dropped out real quick. Not much spacing with the indicators.


That's not a bad time at all considering many of these batteries are putting out less than an hour on High. Should be good enough for a 2 hr ride assuming you use the Low setting appropriately on climbs.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

gopherhockey said:


> I just put 4 brand new balanced batteries in the "famous" battery pack.. (got mine from Ali, maybe that is the issue) and nothing&#8230; doesn't power any of my lights. What a waste.


Was it working before? Have you connected it to the charger briefly, after cells replacement?


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## z1ppy (Nov 15, 2006)

Cat-man-do, cheers for the comparison, looks like I got a dud one, I used my old MS battery and got about 1.5hr and I know this battery is tired. Gunna fire an email off to Manafont and see what they say.



> -Archie-
> What's wrong with that pack? And BTW, it's not "DX", but real MJ-828 battery of good quality...


MK96 wasn't slagging off the battery pack, just linking a "disassembly thread" & the fact that it was more complicated internally than it first looks, after I had said I might try taking mine to pieces. BTW Cheers for the link MK96.

Anyone got a similar link (pictures of it taken apart) to the "famous" battery pack? How difficult is it? Gopherhockey's obviously had issues...


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## Lindgren (Sep 8, 2013)

xaxadj said:


> Has anyone seen this?
> SolarStorm X3 3 x Cree XM-L T6 2000lm 4-Mode White Bike Light - Deep Pink (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
> 
> I don't know how the third led in the middle will perform in comparison with the other two because the reflector seems to be a little wider. I'm thinking about buying the SSX2 but I need a light for trailriding and I'm reading all about throw that this light has, although I prefer more floody beam like the P7 I have right now...


I've Just ordered one of these Solarstorm X3 with XM-L U2 LEDs yesterday.
It comes with a 8,4V 6400mAh battery pack.

It will probably arrive in about 2-4 weeks i guess.
If everything is in order, i will be glad to post some photos of the beam, finish, output, etc.. 
Unfortunately i don't have the right equipment to measure voltage, lumen output, amps and so on, to make a serious test of the bike light.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

z1ppy said:


> MK96 wasn't slagging off the battery pack, just linking a "disassembly thread" & the fact that it was more complicated internally than it first looks,


Maybe I've misunderstood him, but for me "_not a smart choice if you don't like DIY_" sounds like a claim that mentioned battery require a lot of DIYing, while in fact it's well made & ready to use device, without any need to be modified or improved prior to the riding - hence my comment...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

steelhmr said:


> That's not a bad time at all considering many of these batteries are putting out less than an hour on High. Should be good enough for a 2 hr ride assuming you use the Low setting appropriately on climbs.


Oh I have no doubt I could get a 2.5 hour ride in using this battery but that's only because I would be using the lower modes 90% of the time. Nevertheless I still consider this to be a crap battery.

One of the things I noticed while using the Manafont battery is that the output dropped immediately after changing from the Xeccon battery to the Manafont battery. 
Just before the Manafont battery pooped I also noticed that the light output had dropped about 100 lux from what it was at the start. Most of that was likely from the emitters over-heating but I suspect that some of that was because the battery couldn't supply enough amps to power the lamp fully on high.



Lindgren said:


> I've Just ordered one of these Solarstorm X3 with XM-L U2 LEDs yesterday.
> It comes with a 8,4V 6400mAh battery pack.
> 
> It will probably arrive in about 2-4 weeks i guess.
> ...


*Lindgren*, where did you order your triple ( SS ) lamp from? I don't see the U2 model offered with a 6400mAh battery. No Chinese made lamp is going to come with a 6400mAh 4-cell battery, 6-cell maybe but I don't see one offered with a 6-cell either. I only ask because I'm hoping you didn't misread/misinterpret the D/X link that *Xaxadj* posted.


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## Rich666 (Jan 10, 2011)

Hi guys. Just thought I'd add my experiences of this light.

I bought one of these lights from Ebay UK seller laptopartsupplier for £25.99.

My battery lasts 1hr 15mins on full, and the first indicator goes out at around the hour mark.

I've had no issues with the light so far, I'm happy with it, just would like a better battery in time.

Rich.


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## Lindgren (Sep 8, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> *Lindgren*, where did you order your triple ( SS ) lamp from? I don't see the U2 model offered with a 6400mAh battery. No Chinese made lamp is going to come with a 6400mAh 4-cell battery, 6-cell maybe but I don't see one offered with a 6-cell either. I only ask because I'm hoping you didn't misread/misinterpret the D/X link that *Xaxadj* posted.


I've "won" an auction on ebay. US $40,- incl. shipment.
I don't mind about the battery, if theres a problem with it.
If i don't receive the right stuff or even the whole package, then i'm covered by ebay buyer protection, because i used paypal - so i'm save.

It was the exact same pictures and description as this one, but as an auction instead of "buy now":
3X CREE XM L U2 LED 6000LM Head Front Bicycle Lamp Bike Light Headlight Headlamp | eBay


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Ok, let's be correct - it is a MS pack from DX. If you want to use the pack alone after some time when the cells would be weak, it is difficult to replace them. That was my original idea 



-Archie- said:


> What's wrong with that pack? And BTW, it's not "DX", but real MJ-828 battery of good quality...


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Ok, now it's clear.  But it's worth to mention, that this battery was never designed to be a container for user-replaceable cells, just like almost any other bike light battery of similar flavour....


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes, but the MJ880 clone's aluminium cell case is easier way to go, no welding, just put and go  But the MS case has nice indicator


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Voltmeter is funny thing indeed, but I personally think it would be better to implement charge-balansing circuit instead...


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes you are right  But this SS X2 has pretty good indication you can clearly see.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

You mean indication on light head itself? I dislike it. Way too bright, and IMHO traditional multicolor method is more convenient than counting of currently-illuminated LEDs that are all green...


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes way too bright, but some dark transparent plastic shall do it


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

-Archie- said:


> You mean indication on light head itself? I dislike it. Way too bright, and IMHO traditional multicolor method is more convenient than counting of currently-illuminated LEDs that are all green...


Yes, this is true. Still I'd rather have the indicators than not have them, even if they are too bright. I simply cover mine with bit of electrical tape. I line the tape up so only a little light peeks out. If I have any questions I can always stop and remove the tape.

Considering the cheap battery that comes with the lamp, when you see the first LED indicator go out you should immediately power down to a lower mode. The lower the better. If you do this you should be able to milk another 10-20 minutes of run time. If you wait till the final "blinking" led warning you only have a minute before the light goes out.


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## calzone (Oct 15, 2005)

Guys, I bought the replacement battery from Fasttech, SKU: 1347107, but it came with 5.5/2.5 mm connector. It does not fit my lamp, charger, anything, cause the inside pin is to thick. Could you confirm that the standard for all your gear (lamps, chargers, batteries) is 5.5/2.1 mm?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

calzone said:


> Could you confirm that the standard for all your gear (lamps, chargers, batteries) is 5.5/2.1 mm?


Your question is addressed to the SS-X2 / FF-X2 owners only, or to all the people here?


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

kwarwick said:


> They do fit, but MagicShine doesn't use the screw lock design that SolarStorm is using so the connectors will not lock together in quite the same way. Depending on the particular MagicShine connector you may be able to push them together such that the o-ring holds them pretty tight.


Thanks for posting the pictures of the connectors! I wish these guys would all use the exact same connector, but at least they are compatible.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

calzone said:


> Guys, I bought the replacement battery from Fasttech, SKU: 1347107, but it came with 5.5/2.5 mm connector. It does not fit my lamp, charger, anything, cause the inside pin is to thick. Could you confirm that the standard for all your gear (lamps, chargers, batteries) is 5.5/2.1 mm?


Most of the chinese bike lights (about 90% of them) use 5.5x2.1mm connector, including all versions of SSX2.
$0.89 5.5*2.5mm DC Male to 5.5*2.1mm DC Female Power Adapter Cable (10.5cm) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping you can buy this adapter to connect your battery
$1.16 Power Cable for CCTV Security System Camera (Pair) 2-pack - 5.5*2.1mm / female at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping or this cable to replace the connector


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## calzone (Oct 15, 2005)

Thanks Kir,

So I have to warn you guys - if you buy additional battery pack from Fasttech - check the connector size. They list it as "5.5 mm" size, but say nothing about pin size.

This one:
$10.53 8.4V 4400mAh 2S2P 4*18650 Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery Pack - DC port 5.5mm / 500 times rechargeable at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
has 5.5/2.5 connector which wont fit

These have proper 5.5/2.1 connectors:
$22.58 8.4V 8000mAh 2S2P 4*26650 Battery Pack - DC port 5.5mm / 500 times rechargeable at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$16.29 8.4V 6600mAh 2S3P 6*18650 Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery Pack - DC port 5.5mm / 500 times rechargeable at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

They really should inform about that...


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## find_bruce (May 8, 2011)

MK96 said:


> Ok, let's be correct - it is a MS pack from DX. If you want to use the pack alone after some time when the cells would be weak, it is difficult to replace them. That was my original idea


I have some experience with the MS pack from DX, having written the review referred to (also on these forums). After 2.5 years, the cells in my pack have aged & are now of different capacity, ie time for a replacement.

I intend to simply replace the cells with some nice Panasonic or Sanyo cells. Solder tabs are nice & easy, but you can solder direct to the cells.


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## Scoobylight (Apr 28, 2013)

calzone said:


> Thanks Kir,
> 
> So I have to warn you guys - if you buy additional battery pack from Fasttech - check the connector size. They list it as "5.5 mm" size, but say nothing about pin size.
> 
> ...


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

3, maybe 3.5 hours on high. Real capacity is ~6100mAh.
Yes, you can charge it with your charger.


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## Scoobylight (Apr 28, 2013)

So best to get another 4x18650 and use a splitter cable (would this work) or get a 4x26650


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## Lightfoot (Mar 18, 2013)

calzone said:


> Just got one of these. Black battery pack, cannnot say anything about capacity yet. The lamp quality seems good, here are my current draw measurements (external PSU, stabilized 8.4V):
> 
> max mode: 2.13 A (2130 mA),
> mid mode: .85 A (850 mA), fluctuates from 0.8 to 0.9
> ...


How is that one going? I ordered one after getting a refund from ali ex for my defective ssx2. It took some doing but I got a full refund without sending mine back. Looking forward to the arrival. How is yours in brightness and workmanship, not concerned about battery qual.

Ive ordered some 16mm star U2 leds so I can rebuild the ssx2 as well.

Sent from my GT-I9195T using Tapatalk 2


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## calzone (Oct 15, 2005)

Scoobylight said:


> calzone said:
> 
> 
> > These have proper 5.5/2.1 connectors:
> ...


Yes, IF they send them with the connectors exactly as pictured.


Lightfoot said:


> How is that one going? I ordered one after getting a refund from ali ex for my defective ssx2. It took some doing but I got a full refund without sending mine back. Looking forward to the arrival. How is yours in brightness and workmanship, not concerned about battery qual.


This lamp looks very good, although I did not disassemble it, so I don't know what's inside. I was a little concerned about heat dissipation, but during actual ride it was no problem. In high mode lamp was just a little warm. Medium mode (BTW: 3h20min on stock battery) gives absolutely enough light for average MTB speeds, high would be useful for very fast descents, if any.


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## Lightfoot (Mar 18, 2013)

Thanks I'm planning on it beig a helmet mount as the 4xml ive got on the bars blazes. Had it up against guys with multiple ay up set ups and they were dim in comparison. Mind you the 4x is heavier. Cheers for the update

On the topic of batteries, can I easily convert a 4 cell into a two cell for the helmet? 

Sent from my GT-I9195T using Tapatalk 2


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Anyone happen to know the dimensions of the reflectors on this? My "smooth" reflectors are poorly made and I want to replace them with OP reflectors. I think it takes a 1mm hex key to unscrew and all I have is a 1.5 and a .05", which is too small.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

scvkurt03 said:


> Anyone happen to know the dimensions of the reflectors on this? My "smooth" reflectors are poorly made and I want to replace them with OP reflectors. I think it takes a 1mm hex key to unscrew and all I have is a 1.5 and a .05", which is too small.


Look at the last photo on FT product page, it has all the reflector dimensions: $40.73 SolarStorm X2 Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 2000-Lumen LED Bicycle Bike Light - black / 4*18650 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

I think actually the screws on the front are something like 1.25-1.30mm hex. I've got a tool kit coming soon that I hope has the right size, but I was able to unscrew them with a flat bladed screw driver that was just the perfect width... just be careful not to strip out the heads.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

kwarwick said:


> Look at the last photo on FT product page, it has all the reflector dimensions: $40.73 SolarStorm X2 Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 2000-Lumen LED Bicycle Bike Light - black / 4*18650 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
> 
> I think actually the screws on the front are something like 1.25-1.30mm hex. I've got a tool kit coming soon that I hope has the right size, but I was able to unscrew them with a flat bladed screw driver that was just the perfect width... just be careful not to strip out the heads.


Thanks! Too bad I can't seem to find that size reflector anywhere.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

Look at the LAST picture, on the FastTech page, in full size. The measurments are overlayed on the picture.

I suspect the finding a suitable OP replacement will be challenging. I've seen a suggestion over on CPF or BLF on a way to turn a SMO reflector, into a OP. With the reflector out of the lamp, give it a quick sprits with a clear acrylic spray.

I'm not sure if the heat build up in there would be enough to cause problems later on, but it certainly sounds like an interesting idea.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

So I measured the draw from my SSX2 from lightmalls at 7.4 and 8.4 in low mid and high modes and results are here:
7.4V:
0.15A
0.49A
1.88A

8.4V:
0.24A
0.72A
1.87A

I measured on both heads, so at least they are the same


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Since no-one made any beamshots I've decided to take a few photos of my Magicshine MJ-808 and X2. P7 LED in mj-808 was changed for XML-u3. 
I've expected higher difference between the lights.

Mj-808 low:









Mj-808 high:









x2 low:









x2 medium:









x2 high:


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Thanks for the beamshots Snakes. There doesn't to be as much of a difference as I thought there would be. I'm surprised by this. Did you take the pictures with a constant time and exposure settings?


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Yes, fixed settings: 
ISO100, f3.2, 2", whitebalance daylight.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I think there is pretty much difference in the flood of 808 and X2 on high and there is less difference in throw. But X2 seems brighter and floodier.


varider said:


> Thanks for the beamshots Snakes. There doesn't to be as much of a difference as I thought there would be. I'm surprised by this. Did you take the pictures with a constant time and exposure settings?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

MK96 said:


> I think there is pretty much difference in the flood of 808 and X2 on high and there is less difference in throw. But X2 seems brighter and floodier.


Since I own both lamps I would have to agree...^^

I don't think the photo's do either lamp justice. No reference to distance so pretty much useless. The X2 would work very well either as a bar or helmet lamp but the 808E I have is better as a helmet lamp. Not that it ( 808E ) couldn't be used on the bars but most people would want something wider.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Here you can get version with OP reflector and battery indicator on top:
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022532


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

The shot of SSX2 is a bit shifted to the left, but SSX2 seems flodier and brighter when I compare the intensity of the light pointing on same objects on the photo  But I think it is as bright as my Skyray S6 (same draw, but S6 is 3 * T6 and X2 is 2 * U2). I also forgot to write the lightmalls X2 version is also slow flash


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

another new version 



Snakes said:


> Here you can get version with OP reflector and battery indicator on top:
> http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022532


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Snakes said:


> Here you can get version with OP reflector and battery indicator on top:
> http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022532


I wonder why there are two indicators. Could the other tell you which mode you are in. That could be somewhat useful. They don't look very water resistant though.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

varider said:


> I wonder why there are two indicators. Could the other tell you which mode you are in. That could be somewhat useful. They don't look very water resistant though.


Because it just looks better with 2 indicators 
LetterFire LF-22 2 x CREE XM-L T6 1000lm 3-Mode White Bicycle Headlight - Silver (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme 
Here is a white version on DX, read the description. These are simple green-red indicators, they won't tell you anything about the modes.
Btw this version also has an interesting battery pack, it could be simular to D-50 one. I ordered this white version to try it myself.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Hopefully reflector has the same dimensions and will be available aftermarket...


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Perhaps, but is missing some screws on the reflector side of the light  It'll be glued ...


Snakes said:


> Hopefully reflector has the same dimensions and will be available aftermarket...


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

There is also a new version at lightmalls, the funny part is the indicator is on the left side or the right side


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

MK96 said:


> There is also a new version at lightmalls, the funny part is the indicator is on the left side or the right side


Ah...some of those are "Light head Only"...sweet, good price.

Well, if you're one of those people who were riding with just a single 808 or single emitter MS clone on your bars...These things are calling your name. :ihih:


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## SMorrison (Dec 17, 2011)

Cat-man-do said:


> Ah...some of those are "Light head Only"...sweet, good price.
> 
> Well, if you're one of those people who were riding with just a single 808 or single emitter MS clone on your bars...These things are calling your name. :ihih:


Now.... You stop that!

Must...resist...bright lights...the colors...oohhh, shiny!


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

How is lightmalls? Are they reliable? 

Having the battery indicators on top is way worse than having them on the back, it will shine straight into your eyes! Reading the description on dx, it appears that the light may come with two mode groups. It's hard to tell though, it's so poorly written. That could be a useful feature.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I have the older version with the indicators on the back. But so far so good. If I have some time I take it apart and post some shots. But the shipping was quite quick from lightmalls, I have mine for about 2 weeks - can't remember exactly.



varider said:


> How is lightmalls? Are they reliable?
> 
> Having the battery indicators on top is way worse than having them on the back, it will shine straight into your eyes! Reading the description on dx, it appears that the light may come with two mode groups. It's hard to tell though, it's so poorly written. That could be a useful feature.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

MK96 said:


> I have the older version with the indicators on the back. But so far so good. If I have some time I take it apart and post some shots. But the shipping was quite quick from lightmalls, I have mine for about 2 weeks - can't remember exactly.


How are the modes arranged on your light? Is it low-med-high-flash-OFF--low.. 
Or is it press-and-hold for the flash mode.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Anyway, will this work to join 2 SS X2 heads together? The right one should be 5.5 x 2.1 mm or?



Trailice said:


> $3.52 5.4mm Male to Dual Female Adapter Y-Cable for MagicShine P7 Headlamp / Bike light at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

It will work, if you remove rubber O-rings from X2 connectors.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

It is low-med-high-off-low-... and long press for slow flash and that is what I like about this one button setup and hidden slow flash


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

That is what I wanted to hear, thanks a lot 



-Archie- said:


> It will work, if you remove rubber O-rings from X2 connectors.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

You're welcome!


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## Bollis (Sep 9, 2013)

*Sv: SolarStorm/FandyFire X2*



MK96 said:


> I have the older version with the indicators on the back. But so far so good. If I have some time I take it apart and post some shots. But the shipping was quite quick from lightmalls, I have mine for about 2 weeks - can't remember exactly.


Here is some pictures of the inner workings of the light.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=875060

Skickat från min GT-I9300 med Tapatalk 4


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

MK96 said:


> It is low-med-high-off-low-... and long press for slow flash and that is what I like about this one button setup and hidden slow flash


That's great, thanks for the info. I hate when they put the flash mode into the regular mode rotation. I might have to get one of these.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

you're welcome


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Hey guys, the lighmalls version seems to have different driver circuit, although I have not compared it with Kir's photos. But the first difference is the PCB green color instead of black  Current drain numbers are somewhere before this post.


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## 2002maniac (Nov 17, 2008)

I'm a bit of a lighing noob (my only light is a niterider 600). I just ordered a "welltop" light from amazon that appears to be the same as the lights discussed here. What do you guys think? I paid $25 shipped so I won't be too disappointed if it's crap, but it seemed like a good gamble.

Amazon Welltop


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

I noticed that the driver is listed as High-Mid-Low, which is reverse of the SolarStorm one I have. There is no mention of Hold for Flash mode. When you get it, please report back on the mode arrangement.

The picture sure looks like the SolarStorm logo and X2 markings


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## Lichitisky (Feb 25, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> Interesting...my thoughts....Somewhat ugly but if you must have a three emitter lamp this could be the most functional. Likely good at heat dissipation as well. Personally, I like the smaller form factor of the duel emitter lamps. If the Solarstorm X2 comes out in a XM-L2 version I might just buy one. ( Unless Gloworm comes out with an XM-L2 version of their *X2 first  ... * not to be confused with the Solorstorm X2 )
> 
> Strange though that they claim this lamp is 6000 lumen.


Lightmalls selling just the head for a cheap price... You rides are not gonna be the same after this light.... Its calling you name Cat-man-do. kkkkkkkkkkkk

Black Color SolarStorm X3 3xCree XM-L U2 4-Modes 2500-lumen Bicycle Light (4*18650 Battery) - 3LED Bike Light - Led Bike Light - Bicycle Light & Headlamp Worldwide Free Shipping!!!

I just made a product request at FT so they carry the new X3 with the new battery case shown at Blackshadow's website and I am waiting for the reply.

Solarstorm X3 brand quality best bicycle light, View best bicycle light, Solarstorm Product Details from Shenzhen Blackshadow Technology Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com

This battery case rocks and if you buy 4 panasonic 18650 of 3400mah to go with it, we would get around 6800mah. Holybible!


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

But the price for the head is more that for 2x SSX2  You can go better with 2x SSX2 as I did.


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## Lichitisky (Feb 25, 2013)

MK96 said:


> But the price for the head is more that for 2x SSX2  You can go better with 2x SSX2 as I did.


That is a very good point MK96. Certainly this is the best cost efective decidion. But that beam pattern that comes stock should be woth the try on the head though... I dont know. The build quality and moding capabilities (that i dont know about) of the SS x2 seem so good that this could be a beast in a small form factor (when compared to the MS 3 led clone).

If it does deliver anywhere close to 2000 lumens, with that beam pattern, this would make the best bars mounted lamp right now?

The truth is... I just fell silly riding a Road Bike with two lamps LMAO

But you are right, one could just buy 2 SSx2 and have a great power and within a small budget. :thumbsup:


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Lichitisky said:


> Lightmalls selling just the head for a cheap price... You rides are not gonna be the same after this light.... Its calling you name Cat-man-do. kkkkkkkkkkkk
> 
> Black Color SolarStorm X3 3xCree XM-L U2 4-Modes 2500-lumen Bicycle Light (4*18650 Battery) - 3LED Bike Light - Led Bike Light - Bicycle Light & Headlamp Worldwide Free Shipping!!!


Actually, I already have one on the way being supplied by D/X for review. It should be here by next week hopefully. One of the D/X versions has a 6A driver. I thought that worthy to be reviewed.


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## Lichitisky (Feb 25, 2013)

OMG whata lucky cat. Cant wait for this review. Please dont forget to mention the lens sizes for moding purposes.I new It was calling your name.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

6A driver?  That would be too much for the heatsink - nearly 2A for each led - but a bunch of light. Well on a roadbike one SSX2 is just enough ;-)


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

MK96 said:


> 6A driver?  That would be too much for the heatsink - nearly 2A for each led - but a bunch of light. Well on a roadbike one SSX2 is just enough ;-)


That's a possibility. First thing I'll be testing for is thermal lux fade. Hopefully it will have some punch. I'll be comparing it to the tri-clone and the D/X 3-mode quad, all of these XM-L lamps. Results should be interesting. I'm getting ahead of myself though. I need to get the lamp first.


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## Lichitisky (Feb 25, 2013)

I just saw a crazy price for the Solarstorm x2 at Lightmalls:

20 bucks for the head only (red)
30 buck for the black one with battery!

Buy SolarStorm X2 2000-lumen Dual Head Bicycle light With 2xCree XM-L U2 LED 4 Modes(4*18650 Battery) - lightmalls led bike online Worldwide Free Shipping!!!


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Cat-man-do said:


> Actually, I already have one on the way being supplied by D/X for review. It should be here by next week hopefully. One of the D/X versions has a 6A driver. I thought that worthy to be reviewed.


It's probably 2A per led, or three separate drivers chained together. Looking forward to the review Cat.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I have the light head only version but it has a slightly different driver from the one that Kir has from fasttech. The next thing is the battery capacity as usual ;-)

Cat looking forward to read the review!


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Lichitisky said:


> I just saw a crazy price for the Solarstorm x2 at Lightmalls:
> 
> 20 bucks for the head only (red)
> 30 buck for the black one with battery!
> ...


It looks like head only version has XML2 emitters.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

No it has XML U2, what you see is white plastic shim covering the green substrate.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

It says XM-L2 LED and on the picture is XM-L2 emitter:
SolarStorm X2 2*Cree XM-L2 2000-Lumen Led Bike Light head - RED(Head Lamp Only) - Bicycle Lights Lamp Cap - Bicycle Light & Headlamp Worldwide Free Shipping!!!

In description is written XML-U2 but it is copy/pastet. Who knows what you would get...


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Well I got from them an XML U2  They might have bought a different version from different factory, but the description is rather chaotic


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Snakes said:


> In description is written XML-U2 but it is copy/pastet. Who knows what you would get...


Easy to tell if you get XML or XML2 by the substrate color. What you can't tell is the bin. Highly doubt that the cheapo Chinese lights are going to use the premium bins. A Chinese U2 is probably more like a T4. Exaggerated Lumen values, exaggerated bin spec, what's the difference?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes who knows, at least someone who has a lux meter can measure the values. I think there is not a big difference in price T4, T6, U2 - they all are made in China. Perhaps they use bins that did not pass usual quality control and were thrown away, but are true T6, U2, ...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

MK96 said:


> Yes who knows, at least someone who has a lux meter can measure the values. I think there is not a big difference in price T4, T6, U2 - they all are made in China. Perhaps they use bins that did not pass usual quality control and were thrown away, but are true T6, U2, ...


No, it doesn't work like that. The emitters are manufactured by Cree and according to Cree standards. To date I've not heard of anyone ordering a specific lamp with listed specific emitters and then not getting the listed emitter. ...Not that it can't happen. It just hasn't happened yet to my knowledge.



Snakes said:


> It says XM-L2 LED and on the picture is XM-L2 emitter:
> SolarStorm X2 2*Cree XM-L2 2000-Lumen Led Bike Light head - RED(Head Lamp Only) - Bicycle Lights Lamp Cap - Bicycle Light & Headlamp Worldwide Free Shipping!!!
> 
> In description is written XML-U2 but it is copy/pastet. Who knows what you would get...


Um....can't beat that price AND with XM-L2. Check the ad, nothing but XM-L2 that I see. Anyone who is still riding with a single emitter bar lamp and has a MS compatible battery; this is your wake up call.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Snakes said:


> It says XM-L2 LED and on the picture is XM-L2 emitter:
> SolarStorm X2 2*Cree XM-L2 2000-Lumen Led Bike Light head - RED(Head Lamp Only) - Bicycle Lights Lamp Cap - Bicycle Light & Headlamp Worldwide Free Shipping!!!
> 
> In description is written XML-U2 but it is copy/pastet. Who knows what you would get...


I just ordered that light. Picture shows an XM-L2 and the description says XM-L2. Hopefully I get the same UI that MK96 has with an upgraded emitter. With shipping it was $28 and change. They are selling the older XM-L models for around $20. I figured getting the new emitter was worth a few extra dollars. There's some sort of Chinese holiday coming up (according to fasttech), so it might take forever to get the shipment.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I wrote at the beginning I would like to change the emitters when I got the light for XM-L2 and tune the current to some 2.5A. I haven't done that yet due to my free time. And now they are selling XM-L2  But the driver might be the same - around 1.8-1.9A.

@Cat: That is a good knowledge. But the only way to figure that out is to measure it ;-)


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

MK96 said:


> I wrote at the beginning I would like to change the emitters when I got the light for XM-L2 and tune the current to some 2.5A. I haven't done that yet due to my free time. And now they are selling XM-L2  But the driver might be the same - around 1.8-1.9A.


I'm not sure what the cheapest retail cost of two xm-l2 emitters, but ledsupply is selling them for $9.17 each. So the cost of two of them is nearly the cost of the x2 lighthead!


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

perhaps fasttech sells them cheaper ... we'll see, $9 is too much :-(


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Fasttech is definitely the place to get XM-L2 cheap. I put two of these $4.49 Cree XM-L2 T6-4C 10W 1100LM 4200-4500K Neutral White LED Emitter on 16mm Base Plate at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping in my X2 and I'm really pleased with the results. Hard to say if the light is significantly brighter, but the warmer tint was primarily why I changed the emitters.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I got used to cooler white color (about 6000K) since I have it also on a car headlight, one bike 3 XML clone and a pair of XML torches - all of them are this cooler white white white  I just want to drive the light slightly harder so I thought changing them for XM-L2 would be more temperature tolerant


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

I know a lot of us are reading both threads, but I posted a mini review of both the 880 clone and the SSX2 in the 880 clone thread. Thought I might as well post it here, since it's pertinent:

I've had a couple of night rides on my SSX2 and this 880 clone, now, and I have to say that I'm pretty happy with the combination. 

The 880 clone has a smooth beam patten with a gradual transition from spot to flood. Perfect for running on the bars. Low mode was great for climbing, and high was super bright, giving me no pause for speed on a couple of descents I'm fairly familiar with, though have only ridden a few times at night. The UI is great - one button for on/off, and another for low/mid/high (hold for strobe). Really, really like it, except for it being delivered with a severed cord. On my latest (longer) ride, I went for a two hour ride at dusk, ran it on low for an hour, and high for a half hour and never had it change from green. 

The SSX2 was good, but not great. Their low and high intensities were pretty similar, but the mid on the 880 clone was much, much brighter than the SSX2. Often, I ran the X2 on mid while I had the 880 clone on low. Side by side, the X2 beam was brighter, but since the X2 was on my helmet, I had to have it brighter for it to not be overpowered by my bar light. On full bright, the X2 was great in the short to mid range, but diffused too much beyond 20 feet or so. 

The other issue I had with the SSX2 is the beam pattern. My smooth reflector has a little lip in the middle (a defect), which causes a slightly darker spot in the middle of the hot spot. I'll bet it'd be just fine if it didn't have that problem.

In short, this is a pretty good setup for the kind of riding I'll be doing. I might be on the lookout for a helmet mount with better throw, though.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

scvkurt03 said:


> ...The SSX2 was good, but not great. Their low and high intensities were pretty similar, but the mid on the 880 clone was much, much brighter than the SSX2. Often, I ran the X2 on mid while I had the 880 clone on low. Side by side, the X2 beam was brighter, but since the X2 was on my helmet, I had to have it brighter for it to not be overpowered by my bar light. On full bright, the X2 was great in the short to mid range, but diffused too much beyond 20 feet or so.
> 
> The other issue I had with the SSX2 is the beam pattern. My smooth reflector has a little lip in the middle (a defect), which causes a slightly darker spot in the middle of the hot spot. I'll bet it'd be just fine if it didn't have that problem.
> 
> In short, this is a pretty good setup for the kind of riding I'll be doing. I might be on the lookout for a helmet mount with better throw, though.


When I use the X2 on the helmet I've noticed some of the same issues as you have. While it works well as a helmet light I miss the intensity/throw of the lamps that have bigger reflectors with single LED. All of the Duel set-ups just seem to work better on the bars.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

SolarStorm X2 Bike Light 2 CREE U2 2000LM LED Bicycle Light head Black(Head Lamp Only)-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com
Head only, $20 shipped.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Kir said:


> SolarStorm X2 Bike Light 2 CREE U2 2000LM LED Bicycle Light head Black(Head Lamp Only)-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com
> Head only, $20 shipped.


Ouch, how much cheaper can they go... 
Probably it is still worth to add a few $ more for XML2 version.

I've done my first ride with aliexpress SSX2 version for $32. After 2:15h of riding, (most of the time - on uphills on min brightness) indicator still showed 2 out of 3 lights, so the battery is not total crap.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Cat-man-do said:


> When I use the X2 on the helmet I've noticed some of the same issues as you have. While it works well as a helmet light I miss the intensity/throw of the lamps that have bigger reflectors with single LED. All of the Duel set-ups just seem to work better on the bars.


Any specific recommendations along these lines? Just need a light head...


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## mtbman1980 (May 5, 2009)

just recieved my FandyFire X3 from dx, just turned it on for a sec before charging battery pack. 4 mode, low, med, high, hold for flash. All three emiters on for different levels.

Shipped with cheapo battery pack. Any suggestions on a replacement waterpoof pack that will stap to the frame?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

*Solastorm X2 ( U2 ) vs. Gloworm X2 ( U2 ): Comparison*

Took another ride tonight to try out the SSX2, this time on the bars and on my usual single track. Fall is never a good time for night riding. Leaves cover almost everything and adding to the dangers of hidden trail features/obstacles is the fact that the dark color of the leaves does much to lessen the throw of the lamps. This time of year the more light you have the better.

First thing I noticed was that the SSX2 was not so impressive in these conditions. I'm not saying it can't make a good bar light but compared to the Gloworm X2 the GW has it beat hands down. Plenty of throw from the SStorm but not near the peripheral coverage of the Gloworm. Not to mention the GW had a more pleasant/smoother beam pattern. The juxtaposition of the lamps beam patterns became more apparent when on twisty trails. The only way to make the Solarstorm more usable was to point the lamp a little more downward. This helps some. The GW really doesn't need adjustment once you get it dialed in. Undoubtedly the SSX2 will do much better when trails are free of leaf clutter so I'm not totally dissing how well it might work as a bar lamp. On the helmet, the tighter beam pattern of the SSX2 is still better than the standard Gloworm X2. Looks like optics are the way to go if you want to bar mount a lamp. That said, people wanting a bar lamp might look to the new Duo Clones.

Just don't throw the SSX2 out yet though. When I exited the trail and started my 3 mile road ride back to the car I found the Solarstorm X2 does very well on the road. I would say it was "Awesome" for road use but that might be a little too exuberant. Very good light for the road and bright enough to use on low alone. I also tried the flash on the way to the trail and was very pleased with how easy it is to access and to turn off. This feature adds to it's "Road use" profile.

I probably shouldn't say this but if the Chinese get the idea to include a wired remote I wouldn't be surprised if they sold even more of these. Yes, indeed SSX2 with XM-L2's and choice of standard switch or remote, that could be a killer combo. Add some option for optics and these could give the big boys a real run for the money.


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## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

Cat,

Thanks for the update. I agree that this is a bad time to test lights with all the leaves. That withstanding, from the reviews I have read, I still consider this helmet-light-only for trail use. Having the light beam be that unevenly distributed would create so much confusion for near-field visibility. Also, the throw itself screams of being a helmet light. 

I'm glad you brought up the road use. I still will likely buy one of these units at some point for exclusive road use, as I would like a permanent setup for my road bike instead of switching lights back and forth (I use blinking lights day or night). I forget, could you describe the flash again for the SSX2?


----------



## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

So after I order it, you guys tell me it's no good. Haha.


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## jetta_mike (Feb 26, 2007)

Ordered on of these yesterday. It will be used on my helmet. My previously helmet mounted Magicshine 808 with move to the bars. I'll update when I get a ride in with it.


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## Greg1911 (Oct 9, 2013)

After reading this thread I decided to order a Solar Storm. I got it a few days ago and I do like it. But, one problem is that it gets very hot, to the point you wouldn't want to hold on to it for more that a few seconds. 
Is this normal or did I just get a bad one?


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

The idea is that the only reason you'd need to run it on high is at high speed. Without any air circulation, it's gonna get hot. It should be fine on the trail.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Its normal for SSX2, it has a very lightweight case and is not meant to be used as a flashlight or while standing still - it will overheat very fast.
Use high/medium modes only while riding, it will be cooled by air.


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## Mr.Grumpy (Oct 26, 2012)

I too jumped on the SS x2 wagon. Just received them from lightmalls, $70ish shipped for two.

Discharged both batteries with the lights, the first one caused a "connection break" error on my hobby charger, the other battery took about 2000 mah. So, my batteries suck. I'll be using the packs that I got last year with the mini Cree I ordered (tested around 3700 mah at that time, though I should test them again).

Only other thing I tested was amp draw which I don't think has been reported.

Battery no load voltage = 8.35v (year old mini Cree battery)
Low = 0.37 amps @ 8.06v
Med = 1.01 amps @ 7.54v
High = 1.73 amps @ 6.94v

Stock battery no load voltage = 8.09v
Low = 0.34 amps @ 7.78v
Med = 0.93 amps @ 7.35v
High = 1.60 amps @ 6.86v


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

can you buy the SSX2 on amazon from a US seller? saw a link a couple pages ago but they are gone. not sure if it was a us seller.

this seems to be the cheapest:

Buy SolarStorm X2 2000-lumen Dual Head Bicycle light With 2xCree XM-L U2 LED 4 Modes(4*18650 Battery) - lightmalls led bike online Worldwide Free Shipping!!!

how long does the stock battery last on high and medium? I'm reading the SSX2 is good for the helmet. I guess you gotta use a camelbak for the battery? what are you using to mount the SSX2 to the helmet?

as far as handlebar goes, I'm thinking one or two of these:

Amazon.com: 4 Mode 1200 Lumen CREE XML T6 Bulb LED Bicycle bike HeadLight Lamp Flashlight Light Headlamp: Sports & Outdoors

would 3 lights be too much? I don't want weird effects to happen with so many shadows.

thanks.


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## Greg1911 (Oct 9, 2013)

Thanks to scvkurt0 and Kir for the info and the quick reply.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

When riding it is not overheating, even on slower technical sections it was fine on high.



Gabe3 said:


> how long does the stock battery last on high and medium? I'm reading the SSX2 is good for the helmet. I guess you gotta use a camelbak for the battery? what are you using to mount the SSX2 to the helmet?


It depends what battery you get, they are not all the same, depends on luck.

I was ridding a few days ago. My light was somewhere between 40-60 minutes on low and 1 hour on high. When I got to the car indicator showed 1 out of 3 leds, so it still had some power.

For mounting on helmet I am using this mount:
Cheap Velcro Binding Band for SKU 29489/30864 (35CM)


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Mr.Grumpy said:


> Only other thing I tested was amp draw which I don't think has been reported.


Yes it has been reported by Kir and me (but I have slightly different driver)



Snakes said:


> When riding it is not overheating, even on slower technical sections it was fine on high.
> 
> It depends what battery you get, they are not all the same, depends on luck.


It also depends on the environment temp, I ride in about 12 deg. C env. so it is not overheating. The battery is hit or miss with chinese lights. It has been written a lot, so I am runnig lipo and backup 4 x 26650 4500 mAh cells with my own indication. And I buy the head only - for the saved money I can buy spare cells :thumbsup:


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Yeah of course, also environment temp is important. I usually ride with lights from autumn until spring when days are shorter and temperature is low. 
This summer I had an overheating problem with MJ808 which has only one led...


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Mr.Grumpy said:


> Discharged both batteries with the lights, the first one caused a "connection break" error on my hobby charger, the other battery took about 2000 mah.
> Battery no load voltage = 8.35v (year old mini Cree battery)
> Low = 0.37 amps @ 8.06v
> Med = 1.01 amps @ 7.54v
> High = 1.73 amps @ 6.94v


"connection break" error on my hobby charger usually means that protection pcb activated and cut off the cells from connector. And that means that cells are _very_ unbalanced and one pair has much lower capacity. Pretty common thing for chinese batteries, most of them are horrible.
Current draw depends on your SSX2 version, there are loads of them. I'm preparing my own review of SSX2 where I will compare different versions and different drivers.


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## Mr.Grumpy (Oct 26, 2012)

MK96 said:


> Yes it has been reported by Kir and me (but I have slightly different driver)


Oops, didn't see them. Ahh well, the more info the better?!



Kir said:


> "connection break" error on my hobby charger usually means that protection pcb activated and cut off the cells from connector. And that means that cells are _very_ unbalanced and one pair has much lower capacity. Pretty common thing for chinese batteries, most of them are horrible.
> Current draw depends on your SSX2 version, there are loads of them. I'm preparing my own review of SSX2 where I will compare different versions and different drivers.


Ya, I saw that in one of your previous posts (connection break). Look forward to your detailed review! Hurry up with those SS battery boxes as well.


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## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

Anyone else notice the new SS 3x and 4x ST40 and ST30 models:

http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022584
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022583

Completely different design than the other 2x and 3x models. Still not XML-2 though..


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

steelhmr said:


> Anyone else notice the new SS 3x and 4x ST40 and ST30 models:
> 
> http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022584
> http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022583
> ...


I also don't get why they haven't moved to XM-L2 given they seem to cost less than XM-L. I'm wondering which battery pack the XT30 and 40 come with? I'd definitely want the new BC-1 that some sellers show as an option for the X3.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Kir said:


> Current draw depends on your SSX2 version, there are loads of them. I'm preparing my own review of SSX2 where I will compare different versions and different drivers.


Looking forward Kir!


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

kwarwick said:


> I also don't get why they haven't moved to XM-L2 given they seem to cost less than XM-L.


Using up old inventory?


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

whats the difference between these two?

Buy SolarStorm X2 2000-lumen Dual Head Bicycle light With 2xCree XM-L U2 LED 4 Modes(4*18650 Battery) - lightmalls led bike online Worldwide Free Shipping!!!

New Black SolarStorm X2 With 2xCree XM-L2 LED 4-Mode Bike headlight,Bicycle Light Set(4*18650 Battery pack Included) - 2LED Bike Light - Led Bike Light - Bicycle Light & Headlamp Worldwide Free Shipping!!!


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

The cree led - xm-l vs xm-l2


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

MK96 said:


> The cree led - xm-l vs xm-l2


Yeah, there's no point in buying the old stuff now just to save a few bucks.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

where would I get a high quality battery pack for the SSX2?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Gabe3 said:


> where would I get a high quality battery pack for the SSX2?


Gabe, find "The Battery Thread" in the forum thread listing. Although outdated a bit read over the first page listings and then jump to the last couple pages of the thread to find the more recent offerings.

I will point out that both Action LED and Xeccon ( MTB Revolution Australia ) have some great deals on quality batteries. Both vendors advertise on MTBR and will support what they sell.The later has their price listings in AUD so when converted to USD the price is generally a bit less.

Sooner or later I'll get around to updating The Battery Thread.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Solarstorm available on US amazon. Probably the fastest way to get one in America.
Amazon.com: SecurityIng® 4 Modes Waterproof 2800 Lumens Cree XM-L U2 LED Bicycle Light & 6400mAh Battery Pack & Charger, Cree LED Bike Lmap Light Super Bright Lighting Lamp for Outdoor Sports Like Cmaping, Hiking, etc..: Sports & Outdoors


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

varider said:


> Solarstorm available on US amazon. Probably the fastest way to get one in America.
> Amazon.com: SecurityIng® 4 Modes Waterproof 2800 Lumens Cree XM-L U2 LED Bicycle Light & 6400mAh Battery Pack & Charger, Cree LED Bike Lmap Light Super Bright Lighting Lamp for Outdoor Sports Like Cmaping, Hiking, etc..: Sports & Outdoors


I'm no expert on these lights, but this definitely NOT the same as the FastTech SolarStorm. The SS is way brighter than the SecurityIng, much to my friend's dismay.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

scvkurt03 said:


> I'm no expert on these lights, but this definitely NOT the same as the FastTech SolarStorm. The SS is way brighter than the SecurityIng, much to my friend's dismay.


thats a bummer. I noticed the securitying doesn't have a solarstorm logo on it in the pictures on amazon. are the SSX2 at lightmalls.com FastTech? I don't see it say fasttech on the light in the pictures or description.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Gabe3 said:


> thats a bummer. I noticed the securitying doesn't have a solarstorm logo on it in the pictures on amazon. are the SSX2 at lightmalls.com FastTech? I don't see it say fasttech on the light in the pictures or description.


FastTech is just an online retailer. I would assume that if it's branded as SolarStorm and if the specs are the same, it's the same light wherever you buy it.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

scvkurt03 said:


> I would assume that if it's branded as SolarStorm and if the specs are the same, it's the same light wherever you buy it.


FWIW the 2 MS P7 lights I have repaired while identical externally had different driver boards. Very similar but different enough to make me believe they came from different suppliers.


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## mtbRevolution (Aug 10, 2012)

My 2¢. There isn't an explosion of _bike light manufacturers_ in Shenzhen. What we are seeing in the past 6 months is a cheaper business model reflected in prices we see. These _bike light assemblers_ get their casings/shells from a handful of suppliers sometimes brand pre-printed. They get their driver boards, reflectors and LEDs from another group of suppliers and then there's batteries and chargers all squeezed into a box set. This is partly the reason why there are price differences with the "same" model on different sites. We also see price difference in same sites at different times. Some here noted different driver boards for the same model they bought within a short time span.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

mtbRevolution said:


> My 2¢. There isn't an explosion of _bike light manufacturers_ in Shenzhen. What we are seeing in the past 6 months is a cheaper business model reflected in prices we see. These _bike light assemblers_ get their casings/shells from a handful of suppliers sometimes brand pre-printed. They get their driver boards, reflectors and LEDs from another group of suppliers and then there's batteries and chargers all squeezed into a box set. This is partly the reason why there are price differences with the "same" model on different sites. We also see price difference in same sites at different times. Some here noted different driver boards for the same model they bought within a short time span.
> 
> There is no design team, product testing except that it lights up, large assembly overheads, stock holding, long term warranty and reputation protection or any other cost associated with a bike light manufacturer.


I think we can all appreciate the difference between the real bike light industry and these high powered toys. Businesses like yours provide good service, a reputation to protect and all of the other things you mentioned. The problem is that, for the price, these toys work really well, and for those of us who ride at night only a handful of times a year, it's hard to justify spending 4-5 times as much on a real light.


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## mtbRevolution (Aug 10, 2012)

scvkurt03 said:


> I think we can all appreciate the difference between the real bike light industry and these high powered toys. Businesses like yours provide good service, a reputation to protect and all of the other things you mentioned. The problem is that, for the price, these toys work really well, and for those of us who ride at night only a handful of times a year, it's hard to justify spending 4-5 times as much on a real light.


Absolutely agree. Please don't get me wrong. This may come as a shock to many but I actually welcome these products when we look at it long term. It gets people into night riding when it normally wouldn't because of high cost associated with dual set ups etc. How many entry-level bikes do we see on FleaBay saying "selling due to upgrade ridden only 5 times".

These lights are bright and do perform well. I never said they perform bad. It's the batteries and chargers we should look out for.

We really want people to get into night trail riding and night racing, which we strongly support. For those who didn't know, mtbRevolution was meant to be mtb R(acing) evolution [the evolution of mtb racing to endurance racing], not mtb Revolution but easier to pronounce the latter. Back on track, out of the masses getting excited about SolarStorm for instance there will be a percentage who will want better lights in the future. Some may even consider Lupine etc. We attempted to get in some Samsung 7800s to the US to compliment the SolarStorms. I did mention this in one of the threads. We are trying to move the stock to Colorado where they will be dispatched from there. Bloomington IN is out of action for now. I hope this clears it up for many reading this.

[Detest this new automatic linking when we type ebay or Youtube - makes us look like fools trying to spam for them]


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

So back on topic of the Dual light, I've seen these as cheap as 35 delivered but also noticed this one in the link below, 51. Does anyone know where they might be able to buy the one in the link cheaper.

$51.18 YINDING 2*Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 1800-Lumen White LED Bike Light / Headlamp - 1*battery pack (4*18650 / 4400mAh / 2S2P) / US plug at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

The one in the link is even smaller. Also, regarding the Solarstorm or the one in the link, are they being made w/ the newest XMl2.

Sorry if this has already been asked somewhere. I got lazy and thought I would just ask here.

Thx


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

anyone know if I'll need an extension to go from SSX2 to top of a camelbak?

I see two magicshine helmet mounts, one looks taller than the other:

Helmet Mount for MagicShine LED Bike Light | eBay

?Holiday Sale ?MagicShine MJ 6028 Helmet Mount | eBay


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Depending on where you ride, those mounts may work fine or may end up trying to tear your helmet off your head when the light catches on a tree branch. In post 35 of this thread, bakers method is much better IMO.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

Vancbiker said:


> Depending on where you ride, those mounts may work fine or may end up trying to tear your helmet off your head when the light catches on a tree branch. In post 35 of this thread, bakers method is much better IMO.


thanks, he mentions a threaded hole, how is that hole used for the 3M Dual Lock tape?

do I need the wider magicshine MJ-6058 mount for the SSX2 or the standard MJ-6028 works?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Gabe3 said:


> thanks, he mentions a threaded hole, how is that hole used for the 3M Dual Lock tape?


The hole is where the plastic block for the standard mount attaches. baker only mentioned it to state that it is a blind hole and does not penetrate into the inside of the light. That means he did not need to plug it before attaching the Dual Lock to the light body.


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

The solarstorm 2x Cree xml2 from lightmalls is original or a clone?


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## rvanderwerf (Feb 27, 2011)

I saw this battery pack at lightmalls, this looks like a better shaped one to attach to frame than the other one suggested, but it appears to need a connector. Any ideas of what connector/cable I'd need with the x2? I think I may buy 2, mounted on either side of my stem on the bars 

Also what are people using as a helmet mount here for these?

edit sorry forgot link:
High Quality 8.4v 4x18650 Battery Set with LED Bike Light - 18650 Battery - Batterie - DIY & Accessories Worldwide Free Shipping!!!


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## fightnut (Jul 5, 2007)

mb323323 said:


> So back on topic of the Dual light, I've seen these as cheap as 35 delivered but also noticed this one in the link below, 51. Does anyone know where they might be able to buy the one in the link cheaper.
> 
> $51.18 YINDING 2*Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 1800-Lumen White LED Bike Light / Headlamp - 1*battery pack (4*18650 / 4400mAh / 2S2P) / US plug at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
> 
> The one in the link is even smaller


I've seen Yinding (Gemini Duo clone) for $48.39 at Wallbuys.com but you're not going to find it much cheaper........yet.
It's pretty new, people are just starting to receive them in the mail within the last couple/few weeks.
It's a awesome light btw


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

ordered the black SSX2 from fasttech on monday. 4 days later my order changed to "restocking". cancelled and just ordered from lightmalls.

also, apparently fasttech has an issue shipping batterys, so may want to just avoid them.

https://www.fasttech.com/forums/-/t/1037107


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Who knows, I got two SSX2 XML U2 from them but likely they have slightly different driver from the X2 from fasttech.



zaang said:


> The solarstorm 2x Cree xml2 from lightmalls is original or a clone?


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

And are you completely satisfied with the lightmalls solarstorms?
And the battery's run time?
Do you prefer the fasttech or lightmalls solarstorms?
Thanks


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes I am happy with the both lights (same inner, same performance at 1.9A on high, ...). I do not have the battery from lightmalls, I have my own 8000mAh li-po pack. I don't prefer first or second, I just bought heads only. Even from the same seller you can get different versions 



zaang said:


> And are you completely satisfied with the lightmalls solarstorms?
> And the battery's run time?
> Do you prefer the fasttech or lightmalls solarstorms?
> Thanks


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

Where you buy the battery?

Thanks


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Hi, the battery is from Hobbyking and protection module for the battery from ebay.


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

Ok you don't buy it like a battery pack. You make your battery pack with some parts.
I don't know how to do that......


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes it is a sort of DIY


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## Mr.Grumpy (Oct 26, 2012)

I ran an actual runtime test last night as I was curious as to runtimes in relation to the green battery indicators. Solarstorm x2 XML with a battery pack that I know to have about 3900 mah capacity.

Test run on medium

17 minutes in the green battery indicators went from 3 to 2.
51 minutes in the green battery indicators went from 2 to 1.
3 hours and 6 minutes in the green battery indicators went from 1 to flashing.
The intensity of the light seems about the same as at the start, but it's hard to tell.
4 hours and 10 minutes that light went out.
The light is noticeably dimmer at the end as expected.

So my advise, when the light starts flashing, switch back to low and you should have plenty of time to get home!

As for the stock battery, I could re-run the test, but knowing the numbers (one of my stock batteries tested out around 2000 mah) would mean roughly half on all the above numbers. Still IMO, not bad for a $35 light set! So much better than the days of the BLT lights!


Edit - battery took 3727 mah on the recharge.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Mr.Grumpy said:


> I ran an actual runtime test last night as I was curious as to runtimes in relation to the green battery indicators. Solarstorm x2 XML with a battery pack that I know to have about 3900 mah capacity.
> 
> Test run on medium
> 
> ...


All of this tells me that the battery indicators on these are practically useless. According to what you said when you came up on the final indicator you still had two hour of run time left. That's not how indicators are supposed to be spaced. When the final indicator comes up you should have 20-30 minutes left ( depending on total battery capacity )

At least you did the smart thing by testing it. Now you KNOW how to interpret what the indicators are telling you "using the battery you wish to use". Others using a different battery might get a completely different ratio of readings. The point is: Test your run times BEFORE you go out. Know how to interpret the indicators with YOUR battery and you're good to go. Mr. G....good show. Thanks for the heads-up. :thumbsup:

All said, the indicators on different lamps ( depending on brand and type ) will work differently.


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## Mr.Grumpy (Oct 26, 2012)

Yes it's to bad the indicators aren't a bit more useful, the battery I'm using is still a Chinese pack, just good capacity. They might prove better with quality cells (Samsung/Sanyo) as they may or may not have as much voltage drop. Like Cat said, every head and battery is different, so if you wanna know, test it as best as possible in a controlled environment.

Fan, light, battery, laptop with webcam, 10 minutes of scrolling through a video, done! Easy to do for the sake of knowing!


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Battery indicators are not useless, but they will show estimated battery capacity ONLY when light is turned off.
When its turned on you'll get huge voltage drop because chinese batteries/wires are crap. Batteries can't handle stable voltage under load and wires are too long and too thin.


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## Mr.Grumpy (Oct 26, 2012)

Kir said:


> Battery indicators are not useless, but they will show estimated battery capacity ONLY when light is turned off.
> When its turned on you'll get huge voltage drop because chinese batteries/wires are crap. Batteries can't handle stable voltage under load and wires are too long and too thin.


This is a valid point. Once a battery indicator goes off on my SolarStorm x2, it never turns back on unless I disconnect/reconnect the battery. Turning the light off the indicator remains as it was... perhaps this is a difference in the different heads out there? So, just to be clear, if the x2 goes from 3 to 2 indicators, cycling power doesn't change the state of the indicators. Only disconnecting/reconnecting the head to the battery will reset it.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

A while back I was testing one of my D/X lamp(s) with the provided 4-cell battery. The lamp had indicators. When the red indicator came on the lamp only stayed on for another 2 minutes. That of course is not what I was expecting and certainly if I see red I want to have enough time to do something other than watch the lamp go out. Ideally if the last indicator comes up you want to power down the lamp to minimum to get the most out of your battery OR switch out the battery with a back-up. Once the PCB on the battery cuts off the power your done.


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## mrbubbles (Apr 9, 2007)

y'know, the batteries for these lights are cheap enough <$20 that you can have a spare on the trail if you're worried about battery life. 

Or you can go the dynamo route like me. Never have to worry about battery again.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

mrbubbles said:


> y'know, the batteries for these lights are cheap enough <$20 that you can have a spare on the trail if you're worried about battery life.
> 
> Or you can go the dynamo route like me. Never have to worry about battery again.


This is true. A cheap 2 or 4-cell can provide that extra safety margin when in doubt. Personally, I have good batteries and never worry about run time.


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## kanaka (Jan 11, 2004)

According to the Ebay listing, "As the leader of night riding,it will bring you infinite light!" I would love to have infinite light


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I just got the SolarStorm X3, went on 2.5 hour ride with the x3 on helmet. Really like this light, light weight 130g. The x2 was on my bars, weight 99g. Will try it the other way around next outing. I would say the x2 is slightly brighter than my Gemini Duo rated at 1400 lumens, but the Duo is more like 1200 I would say. The x3 at 40.00 bucks for the headlight just by itself can't be beat. This light has good spot along with good spread.
I would say the x3 compares to my best light Serfas True 1500. The True 1500 is just too heavy for the helmet. I may just sell it now !!!


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## Mr.Grumpy (Oct 26, 2012)

dgw7000 said:


> I just got the SolarStorm X3, went on 2.5 hour ride with the x3 on helmet. Really like this light, light weight 130g. The x2 was on my bars, weight 99g. Will try it the other way around next outing. I would say the x2 is slightly brighter than my Gemini Duo rated at 1400 lumens, but the Duo is more like 1200 I would say. The x3 at 40.00 bucks for the headlight just by itself can't be beat. This light has good spot along with good spread.
> I would say the x3 compares to my best light Serfas True 1500. The True 1500 is just too heavy for the helmet. I may just sell it now !!!


Any chance on a beam shot comparison between the x2 and the x3.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

Mr.Grumpy said:


> Any chance on a beam shot comparison between the x2 and the x3.


+1
Is x3 noticeable brighter than x2?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Cat will get his light and write a review, just be patient ;-)


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Yes I'm sure Cat will test them !! The x3 is much brighter than the x2, its well made and I like the button action. Easy to find and use. I use the Gemini 4 cell soft case battery, the Magicshine 4 cell battery in the Neoprene cover is nice too. From Actionled.


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## OPC (Jun 16, 2008)

For the battery issue... Can't you just buy 4 new batteries and replace them with the ones in the blue or black Chinese battery pack and be good to go?


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

You can if you have a spot welding machine or skills to solder li-ion (not recommended, very easy to overheat the battery).


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

You can just buy high-quality battery pack from reputable vendor and be good to go!


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## jetta_mike (Feb 26, 2007)

jetta_mike said:


> Ordered on of these yesterday. It will be used on my helmet. My previously helmet mounted Magicshine 808 with move to the bars. I'll update when I get a ride in with it.


Got a ride in last night with my X2 on the helmet and my MS 808 on the bars. First time using two lights and I'm loving it. I will be looking into getting a wide beam lens for the Magic Shine. The ride was only an hour and half, so no comment on battery life.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Here's another link for the Solarstorm with xm-l2. Complete kit for 38.69
Free shipping 1Set CREE XML2 T6 3B Bike Light 1600lm Waterproof Bicycle Light LED HeadLamp + 8.4v Battery Pack + Charger-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com


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## truks (Oct 25, 2013)

dgw7000 said:


> I just got the SolarStorm X3, went on 2.5 hour ride with the x3 on helmet. Really like this light, light weight 130g. The x2 was on my bars, weight 99g. Will try it the other way around next outing. I would say the x2 is slightly brighter than my Gemini Duo rated at 1400 lumens, but the Duo is more like 1200 I would say. The x3 at 40.00 bucks for the headlight just by itself can't be beat. This light has good spot along with good spread.
> I would say the x3 compares to my best light Serfas True 1500. The True 1500 is just too heavy for the helmet. I may just sell it now !!!


\

Hi dgw7000,
Great post! Where did you buy your SolarStorm X3 from, if you mind me asking?

Thanks!

T.R.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

outdoor-lights on ebay, item # 261313063177


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## rvanderwerf (Feb 27, 2011)

dgw7000 said:


> outdoor-lights on ebay, item # 261313063177


those look like XLM leds, I bet it would rock with 3 x XLM2 leds, or maybe someone has put one together already?


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

One of my 6cell welded leads came loose and I had my son solder it back on, I guess it fried the battery, hasn't worked for more than 20mins since.



OPC said:


> For the battery issue... Can't you just buy 4 new batteries and replace them with the ones in the blue or black Chinese battery pack and be good to go?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

In reference to the X3



MK96 said:


> Cat will get his light and write a review, just be patient ;-)


MK96, I'm still waiting for D/X. I should of had it a week ago. Looks like I'll have to contact the rep to see whats up. I have a feeling that somehow it was never sent.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10003977/1502001-solarstorm-x2-l2-2-cree-xm-l2-t6-4-mode-2000lm
XML2 version, $32 shipped with BLF coupon.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Kir said:


> https://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10003977/1502001-solarstorm-x2-l2-2-cree-xm-l2-t6-4-mode-2000lm
> XML2 version, $32 shipped with BLF coupon.


Wow, that's a great deal!


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## White Bear (Jun 12, 2013)

Kir said:


> https://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10003977/1502001-solarstorm-x2-l2-2-cree-xm-l2-t6-4-mode-2000lm
> XML2 version, $32 shipped with BLF coupon.


BLF Coupon?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

There is now a small issue that HK airmail does not accept lithium cells,all packages containing lithium are sent back as undeliverable. My lights from KD were sent in 2 parts: the heads with airmail and batteries with surface mail ...


Cat-man-do said:


> In reference to the X3. MK96, I'm still waiting for D/X. I should of had it a week ago. Looks like I'll have to contact the rep to see whats up. I have a feeling that somehow it was never sent.


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## morepower (May 14, 2012)

I got my solar storm X2 off ebay. Really happy with it too.... I ran the original battery and got 1h 20 minutes on high and just under 3 hours on the medium setting. I wanted a little more battery life so ordered up this battery from Lightmalls.

Buy 8.4V 12000mAh 8x18650 Battery pack For 8.4V LED Bicycle Light With Pouch - lightmalls bike light parts online Worldwide Free Shipping!!!

I have not had chance to run it on high until it goes flat yet and due to the heat I have only run it on low for 25 hours continually then turned it off with the led flashing. It may have lasted another 20 minutes or over an hour possibly as it had been flashing for a couple of hours already.

I am running it on the mid setting at the moment and it has done 3 and half hours with all three led's still showing full power. If I can get 3 to 4 hours on full power it would be more than enough for almost all of the rides I may do.. Plus I can carry the smaller original battery in my back pack as a back up and still get another 1 to 3 hours depending on which setting I need to use. But I think the mid setting is more than good enough to get me home in almost any condition as it is really a good bright light compared to what I was used to before....


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## fightnut (Jul 5, 2007)

Saw this one on ebay and thought I'd share it. It's kinda weird, but cheap enough that people could just use the light head to go with their 4-cell battery. Might have to get creative to mount it on a helmet.

2000 Lumen 5 Modes Dual Head Bicycle Light Headlamp with 2 CREE XM L U2 LEDs EA9 | eBay


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

It's not clear whether it is 4.2v or 8.4v variant. I've seen this battery container in other light, where it was parallel-connection type...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

-Archie- said:


> It's not clear whether it is 4.2v or 8.4v variant. I've seen this battery container in other light, where it was parallel-connection type...


...not only that but the battery holder requires only two cells and is connected directly to the lamp ( no two-way plug ). Interesting though because the lamp looks like it is using reflectors that are OP'd. Can't beat the price.


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## 2002maniac (Nov 17, 2008)

2002maniac said:


> I'm a bit of a lighing noob (my only light is a niterider 600). I just ordered a "welltop" light from amazon that appears to be the same as the lights discussed here. What do you guys think? I paid $25 shipped so I won't be too disappointed if it's crap, but it seemed like a good gamble.
> 
> Amazon Welltop





Ian_C said:


> I noticed that the driver is listed as High-Mid-Low, which is reverse of the SolarStorm one I have. There is no mention of Hold for Flash mode. When you get it, please report back on the mode arrangement.
> 
> The picture sure looks like the SolarStorm logo and X2 markings


Turns out it's not a "Welltop" at all. It's a Solarstorm X2. I'm very happy with it so far.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

One thing to keep in mind, the x2 and x3 have really sharp edges. This can really dangerous. Both the Gemini Duo and Xera have a much smoother light pattern. The x3 Solorstorm is best used on the head. For the money can't complain !!


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

dgw7000 said:


> One thing to keep in mind, the x2 and x3 have really sharp edges. This can really dangerous.


I wouldn't exactly say sharp. Though I agree the right angle edges of fins on the font and back could break skin in a serious crash. But realistically, if the accident causes you to hit the light with enough force to result in that kind of damage, other parts of your body are hitting the bike or ground pretty hard too. Those impacts are likely to cause more acute injuries than hitting the SS.

From a safety point of view, yes it would have been good for the corners of the upper fins to be rounded. I think this is a case where style won out over safety. I doubt injuries in an accident even entered the minds of the designers.

It is a "sharp" looking light, that stands out as different from others that were on the market when this was introduced in the spring. It still looks unique today.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

fightnut said:


> Saw this one on ebay and thought I'd share it. It's kinda weird, but cheap enough that people could just use the light head to go with their 4-cell battery. Might have to get creative to mount it on a helmet.





-Archie- said:


> It's not clear whether it is 4.2v or 8.4v variant. I've seen this battery container in other light, where it was parallel-connection type...


There isn't necessarily anything wrong with a 2P power source. If there were other design changes such such as the driver and LEDs connected in parallel rather than series. (Maybe the builders and modders can chime in on that.) There are many single 18650 cell flashlights that drive the LEDs as brightly as our 2S2P bike lights.

I also noticed there are no battery charge indicators. The front bezel is quite different and the back attaches with sunken screws/bolts. Willing to bet a single pair of screws hold both front and back in place. The cable glands looks quite anemic compared to the SS.

Plusses: You get a quick release handle bar mount, and the head mount looks lower profile than the standard MS style. And those OP reflectors sure caught my eye too.

But considering you can get the original SS X2 "light head only" for $20.65 or the real XM-L2 version for $23.50, I'm not sure the potential down sides of this model are worth the risk. Of course if someone wants to buy it, and give it the once over, I'd gladly read the review with gusto.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

dgw7000 said:


> One thing to keep in mind, the x2 and x3 have really sharp edges. This can really dangerous. Both the Gemini Duo and Xera have a much smoother light pattern. The x3 Solorstorm is best used on the head. For the money can't complain !!


MTB'ing is inherently dangerous in and of itself. Any bad fall can have you hitting a tree, a sharp stick, big or sharp rocks or any combo thereof. Getting hurt by the edges on a SSX2 would take, "The Perfect Storm" so to speak. Even if you did brush up against one during a fall the lamp will move ( if using the O-ring mounts )
All things considered, I certainly wouldn't let the lamp design keep me from buying one. Simply put; really not important enough to worry about.


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## zonoskar (Jan 22, 2004)

Due to my wonky handlebars, I cannot mount this light perfectly, it always shines to the right (or left). I could use something to attach it to the stem in stead of the bars, is that available?


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## eggdog (Nov 17, 2010)

Stem Cap Light Mount from Paul Component Engineering

Paul components stem light mount should work!


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## ironbrewer (Oct 17, 2012)

zonoskar said:


> Due to my wonky handlebars, I cannot mount this light perfectly, it always shines to the right (or left). I could use something to attach it to the stem in stead of the bars, is that available?


I use the MT204 mount and its great. Its super light, and if you want you can mount more than one thing to it.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

I use the MT-201P mount for center light: works fine.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

eggdog said:


> Stem Cap Light Mount from Paul Component Engineering
> 
> Paul components stem light mount should work!


I feel this will mount the light too close to the rider for standing up while climbing. You'll get lots of glare in your eyes if it is not further forward. I had to build a "hood" for one of my early lights to prevent that.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

*Action LED Mount*



zonoskar said:


> Due to my wonky handlebars, I cannot mount this light perfectly, it always shines to the right (or left). I could use something to attach it to the stem in stead of the bars, is that available?


I use the Action LED mount also, works great but is a bit slippery for MS type o-ring mounting so I epoxied inner tube strips to it, makes for a snug fit.


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

I'm From Portugal and today arrived my SolarStorm X2 XM-L2 version from lightmalls (ordered on 11 Out 2013, arrived today 29 Out 2013).


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Tonight going with 2-SS x2 on the bars powered by my new Xeccon 6 cell, Samsung 7800 mAh soft shell battery. Leonard is another great guy to deal with, great service better pricing than Action, sorry Jim !! Supper fast shipping, 6 cells for slightly more money than 4 cell from Gemini.
I will use the x3 again on the head power by the Gemini 4 cell battery. Thinking about getting just the new Gemini Olympia 2100 light head. Not much info yet on it !!


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

dgw7000 said:


> Tonight going with 2-SS x2 on the bars powered by my new Xeccon 6 cell, Samsung 7800 mAh soft shell battery. Leonard is another great guy to deal with, great service better pricing than Action, sorry Jim !! Supper fast shipping, 6 cells for slightly more money than 4 cell from Gemini.
> I will use the x3 again on the head power by the Gemini 4 cell battery. Thinking about getting just the new Gemini Olympia 2100 light head. Not much info yet on it !!


MTB Revolution; great place to buy good batteries at a great price. :thumbsup:
About the Gemini Olympia 2100; If this is a XM-L2 (U2) version it should make an AWESOME light.


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

SSC P7 ( same chip of MJ-808 ) and Solarstorm X2 XM-L2

*control photo*










*SSC P7 - Medium*










*SSCP7 - High*










*Solarstorm X2 XM-L2 - Low*










*Solarstorm X2 XM-L2 - Medium*










*Solarstorm X2 XM-L2 - High*


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## zonoskar (Jan 22, 2004)

Thanks for the hints for the handlebar mounts, really useful.

Here's the shots I made yesterday. Using an EOS-M ISO200, f5.6 4" exposure. All pics manual mode. Exposure is about the same as the requested settings of "camera settings: full manual, ISO-100, Exposure-6 seconds, Aperture-F4.0 (ISO200 f5.6 equals ISO100 f4.0), but 6 sec exposure would really overexpose things, so 4 sec is 1/2 stop less.

X2 on low:









X2 on medium:









X2 on high:









That tree is 15m away. The small tree in the background is about 30m away (look closely).


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

If it were me, I would adjust the aim a little higher. It's too blown out close in.


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

Just got a few of these, is it best to fully charge the battery packs before use or make sure they are run out before charging?


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Great beamshots guys!


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

On the field (SSCP7 vs Solarstorm X2 XM-L2)

Control










SSCP7 - Medium










SSCP7 - High










Solarstorm X2 XM-L2 - Low










Solarstorm X2 XM-L2 - Medium










Solarstorm XM-L2 - High (the difference between the "medium" and "high" is greater than is seen in the photos, but the light is so strong in "high" and the iphone automatically adjusts the luminosity photo  )


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## rvanderwerf (Feb 27, 2011)

wow that's frigging bright! ordered a pair of the xl-m2 ones from lightmalls yesterday, can't wait to ride with these puppies!! Makes my old mightycross 350 look like a incandescent flashlight.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Zaang, I think you aimed the light very good, I ride mine the same way. Guys nice shots!


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

MK96 can you tell me the max run time you get (with the original battery) on: High, Medium and Low?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I don't have "original" chinese, I just have mine zippy flightmax 8000 mAh, with one SS-X2 runs about 4.5 hours on high. The chinese batteries ale lottery - so can't tell how much can you get out of yours. I remember that mine Skyray 3 XML light ran about 20 minutes on high, so I decided to throw chinese bat away and bought li-po.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

You guys should really get some good batteries with a good charger. MTB Revolution is the place to get them. When I'm riding the last thing I need to worry about my light going dim. It seems like your getting a great deal when buying the whole set, but your really wasting your money in my opinion !! I use the Gemini charger !!
The new Olympia 2100 light head is 144.00, Jim says it's a true 2100 lumens, we will see and it does use the XM-L2 u2 version as per Jim. "Sorry to talk about Gemini here"
Going out tonight with 2-x2's on bars and the x3 on helmet.


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

MK96 said:


> I don't have "original" chinese, I just have mine zippy flightmax 8000 mAh, with one SS-X2 runs about 4.5 hours on high. The chinese batteries ale lottery - so can't tell how much can you get out of yours. I remember that mine Skyray 3 XML light ran about 20 minutes on high, so I decided to throw chinese bat away and bought li-po.


Ok thanks.
I tell to the operator of livechat (lightmalls) be honest and tell me the max run time, he tell they don't cheat costumers and they test the batterys, run on high normaly more than 3h and on medium 4-5 hours...... but..... i hope is true


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Well to be honest I don't think that can be true, if the light draws on high ~2A then the chinese cells have to be around 6 Ah or 6000 mAh - that will do some new samsung, panasonic and sanyo cells. Or the light might be less powerfull than 2A so you get longer runtime. Mine SS X2 the XM-L U2 one from lightmalls draws ~2A on high - bought light head only.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

zaang said:


> Ok thanks.
> I tell to the operator of livechat (lightmalls) be honest and tell me the max run time, he tell they don't cheat costumers and they test the batterys, run on high normaly more than 3h and on medium 4-5 hours...... but..... i hope is true


If it lasts 90 minutes on high you consider yourself lucky. Look at it this way, to get more than 3 hours they would need 2 sets of batteries that sell for ~$15/set (panasonic 3400s). Really think that's happening?


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## morepower (May 14, 2012)

I have tested mine on full power at 1h 15 minutes on average. Medium power is about 2 h 45 minutes. I have not tried low power with the stock battery to be honest.

I got one of the 12,000mah batteries from Lightmalls and tested that on all settings. High power was about 3 hours. Medium power lasted about 7 hours and low power I turned it off after 25 hours. BUT and here is the key thing. The light malls battery does not cut off like the original one so it will run for longer with reduced light and the high power setting after about 2 1/2 hours is dimming to about the same level as medium power or a little less and at 3 hours it is the same as low power so I turned it of not wanting to over discharge the battery pack. BUT for how powerful the lights are I would say medium power is strong enough for most rides.


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

Can you give me the link of that 12.000mha battery from lightmalls?
The connection is compatible with the Solarstorm X2?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

morepower said:


> I got one of the 12,000mah batteries from Lightmalls and tested that on all settings. High power was about 3 hours.


That indicates that the 12,000mAh battery is really ~6,000mAh. Chinese spec inflation at its finest.


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## yoeddy (Feb 20, 2006)

dgw7000 said:


> You guys should really get some good batteries with a good charger. MTB Revolution is the place to get them.


Do all of the batteries from MTB Revolution work with the SolarStorm X2? Which do you recommend? My X2 has the screw-type connector with the o-ring. Are these batteries compatible with that?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I always say buy a better battery pack from whatever reputable seller and if you want a chinese light just buy the head only ... you can save ~10$ or more to spend it on a better pack.


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## morepower (May 14, 2012)

zaang said:


> Can you give me the link of that 12.000mha battery from lightmalls?
> The connection is compatible with the Solarstorm X2?


Buy 8.4V 12000mAh 8x18650 Battery pack For 8.4V LED Bicycle Light With Pouch - lightmalls bike light parts online Worldwide Free Shipping!!!

Yes it works with the solar storm... I dont care what the actual capacity is as it is still double the original one and for the price it works and lasts long enough for me...


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

And you can screw the cable or only connect it?
And you charge this battery with the original charger?


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## morepower (May 14, 2012)

The threaded fitting will actually slip over the connector without damage to either part and it charges with the original charger. I contacted Lightmalls to check and they said it would work and I have run the battery flat a few times with no problems.


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

So with this battery the cable connection is not water proof...... Correct?


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

rvanderwerf said:


> wow that's frigging bright! ordered a pair of the xl-m2 ones from lightmalls yesterday, can't wait to ride with these puppies!! Makes my old mightycross 350 look like a incandescent flashlight.


I ordered the same one. Be prepared for a long wait. I ordered mine at the beginning of October and I still don't have it. It's coming from Singapore.


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

I ordered mine on 11 October and received on 29 October (shipped from Singapore to Portugal)


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

zaang said:


> I ordered mine on 11 October and received on 29 October (shipped from Singapore to Portugal)


Yeah, mine might be stuck in parcel purgatory.


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## morepower (May 14, 2012)

zaang said:


> So with this battery the cable connection is not water proof...... Correct?


As the outer threaded fitting fits so well over the none threaded connector I would say it is good enough to use even in the rain.. It would be better sealed than the rest of the battery pack...lol.. Standard and the bigger version I bought...


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## mtbRevolution (Aug 10, 2012)

yoeddy said:


> Do all of the batteries from MTB Revolution work with the SolarStorm X2? Which do you recommend? My X2 has the screw-type connector with the o-ring. Are these batteries compatible with that?


Your threaded connector will only work with our LiPo battery which also comes with those threaded with o-ring connectors. If you are in Australia, we can send that to you. If not, we may be able to send you an extension cable (depending on where you are) and you'll have to de-solder and resolder a new cable and connector to make it "standard". It's easy enough else get an electronics geek to do it for you.

For reference, Xeccon batteries comes with square connectors with standard 5.5 x 2.1 DC internals. It will fit MS type connectors but will only be fully waterproof when using the adaptor cable.

We are seeing the array of variables with the SSX2. Connectors, driver boards, LED emitters, reflector cups, batteries and chargers.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

I just ordered a SSx2 Xm-L2 head off ebay.
Be interesting how it compares to the XML 3x I have on the bars.
If it's not brighter, I'll use it on my helmet to replace my Hi-Max XML U2 single.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Just tested Two-x2 light heads mounted on bars, y cable going to Xeccon 6 Samsung cells 7800mAh battery. One- x3 on helmet powered by another Xeccon 6 cell battery. This give me all the light I would ever need and more !! "All lights on high the entire time"
The 2-x2 lights on the bars "rear led button" started to flash at 2 hours 45 min. At 3 hours 15 min. went black. The x3 on the helmet went into flash at 3 hours 13 min. than went black 1 min. later. These were new batteries fully charged for the first time. Temp outside was 55 degree.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

dgw7000 said:


> Just tested Two-x2 light heads mounted on bars, y cable going to Xeccon 6 Samsung cells 7800mAh battery. One- x3 on helmet powered by another Xeccon 6 cell battery. This give me all the light I would ever need and more !! "All lights on high the entire time"
> The 2-x2 lights on the bars "rear led button" started to flash at 2 hours 45 min. At 3 hours 15 min. went black. The x3 on the helmet went into flash at 3 hours 13 min. than went black 1 min. later. These were new batteries fully charged for the first time. Temp outside was 55 degree.


Haha, that's awesome. Did you find yourself riding faster with all that light? I imagine it didn't even feel like a night ride.

Is there any chance you could post a picture of the x3 on the helmet, I have no concept for how big it is. Thanks.


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## mtbRevolution (Aug 10, 2012)

dgw7000 said:


> Just tested Two-x2 light heads mounted on bars, y cable going to Xeccon 6 Samsung cells 7800mAh battery. One- x3 on helmet powered by another Xeccon 6 cell battery. This give me all the light I would ever need and more !! "All lights on high the entire time"
> The 2-x2 lights on the bars "rear led button" started to flash at 2 hours 45 min. At 3 hours 15 min. went black. The x3 on the helmet went into flash at 3 hours 13 min. than went black 1 min. later. These were new batteries fully charged for the first time. Temp outside was 55 degree.


Hate it when Kir is right again. What is surprising to me is the high draw of the X3. 3 hours 15 mins is what I would normally get for a 3 x XM-L T6 powered by a 6600mAh battery, not a 7800. It'd be good if you can test indoors in front of a fan later. How did the Gemini 5200 go?


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Check it out !!


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

The last 45 min. of test was done in my garage with high powered fan blowing on lights.

I will test the Gemini 4 cell samsung cells battery next. I think the batteries will do better after a few cycles of charging and discharging. Is that correct Leonard ? Using Gemini charger.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I'm impressed, it's much smaller than I thought it would be. Thanks for the pictures!


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

Can one replace the leds in these?


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I'm getting the Gemini Olympia 2100 soon, I like the light pattern best on the Gemini nice and smooth. The SS have a spot in center and a halo, not my preferred pattern. My peripheral vision is affected by the halo.


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## mtbRevolution (Aug 10, 2012)

dgw7000 said:


> The last 45 min. of test was done in my garage with high powered fan blowing on lights.
> 
> I will test the Gemini 4 cell samsung cells battery next. I think the batteries will do better after a few cycles of charging and discharging. Is that correct Leonard ? Using Gemini charger.


Luv da bike. AFAIK Jury is still out on conditioning lithium batteries for the first 3 full-charge to full-discharge cycles. Try it.

Runtime test should be a simulation of riding with the lights. So aim for about a 10mph airflow. Higher airflow is better for the lights but it distorts reading. Test from start to end indoors or outdoors. Just keep it constant.

What is important is the X3 is as bright as the 2 x X2. Still amazed how identical the runtimes were.


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## mtbRevolution (Aug 10, 2012)

dgw7000 said:


> The 2-x2 lights on the bars "rear led button" started to flash at 2 hours 45 min. At 3 hours 15 min. went black. The x3 on the helmet went into flash at *3 hours 13 min. than went black 1 min. later*.


dgw, have to bring up this statement again. Wonder why only a 2 minute warning before depletion when you had around 30 mins warning with the SSX2s. Please check if this is happening in other rundowns. Also switch over batteries and light heads.

Last test, run both batteries with SSX2 separately. See how close we are to the expected runtime of 6.5 hours with the 7800s.


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## velovite (Jun 22, 2008)

Purchased a Solarstorm X2 from fleabay (no. 111154856805). First one had the mounting screw strip out of the bottom of the head simply by mounting it to the bars. I returned it and they sent a new one. But the battery is crap. 42 minutes on high. The 3 indicators on the back are largely useless too it seems- after a full charge it never reads full. 
The customer service has been good so far, so I contacted them to see about a new battery- which may not be any better-or preferably a partial refund. 

You get what you pay for I suppose. I'll look into decent replacement batteries.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Ok, I'm testing now !! All Solarstorm lights, x2 power by Xeccon 6 cell 7800mah battery and x3 power by another Xeccon 7800mah battery. Inside test with high powered fan started at 9:50 am.

Than I decided to also test x2 powered by Gemini 4 cell 5200mah battery and x2 powered by Magicshine 4 cell 5600mah started test at 10:20 am.

All batteries charged by same Gemini charger, all light s on high setting. The x3 green led at rear of light head goes to 2 within seconds after turning on, so the indicator are not very accurate. Also the rubber bands that come with lights are junk, they will break. The Gemini bands are great !! I think the Xeccon will run the x2 for 6+ hours on high. Will see.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

OFFcourse said:


> Can one replace the leds in these?


Yes, iirc leds are mounted on 16mm stars and thermal paste. Just unsolder old stars and solder new ones, very easy.



> Wonder why only a 2 minute warning before depletion when you had around 30 mins warning with the SSX2s.


Probably different driver and different voltage levels for indicators. One flashing led on the back is supposed to indicate "emergency! less than 5% battery remaining".
I still find its hard to believe that SSX3 draws 3.5A from battery...I've only seen 2 chinese lights with 3A draw or higher. Most of them can drive leds up to 3A but usually they're setup for much lower current, probably to provide a better runtime on crappy batteries.



> The x3 green led at rear of light head goes to 2 within seconds after turning on, so the indicator are not very accurate.


And again...these indicators will only show the correct battery capacity when light is turned off. When its on you get a huge voltage drop, especially on high mode.
We really need a guide/FAQ on chinese lights, these questions pop up in every popular thread.



> But the battery is crap. 42 minutes on high. The 3 indicators on the back are largely useless too it seems- after a full charge it never reads full.


See above. Indicators are not useless, but your battery is. And you will _never_ get a good battery with SSX2, its simply impossible. Max capacity for chinese batteries is about 4000mAh and even then it'll be made from crappy cells that can't handle high load.


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## velovite (Jun 22, 2008)

Kir said:


> And again...these indicators will only show the correct battery capacity when light is turned off. When its on you get a huge voltage drop, especially on high mode.
> We really need a guide/FAQ on chinese lights, these questions pop up in every popular thread.
> 
> See above. Indicators are not useless, but your battery is. And you will _never_ get a good battery with SSX2, its simply impossible. Max capacity for chinese batteries is about 4000mAh and even then it'll be made from crappy cells that can't handle high load.


I must have missed the point about voltage drop. My mistake.

Yes, I am aware that the batteries are a lottery at best. I was only referencing my experience with this particular seller in case anyone else was thinking of ordering from them. But then again, they could have lights with a dozen different batteries, who knows. 
That being said, they are sent from the UK, so anyone in Europe can get one from this source in a few days. They also replaced the defective lamp, and have promised to send another battery- only time will tell if its any better. Point being that customer service does exist from this source.

Once I've learned more about this and read a few thousand posts in this forum I may be confident enough to install some quality cells- or I'll just get a battery pack from a reputable source.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

dgw7000 we need some on-trail beamshots of that setup.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

X3 cut out 12:42 started at 9:50, so almost 3 hours on high. Give or take a few min. Again no flashing from the x3 just went out !!


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

X2 with Gemini 4 cell battery went out at 1:29 started at 10:20 no flashing, was on high when it died. So 3 hours 9 min. Full high the whole time.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Also tested a 2 cell Xeccon Bak cell battery with a Gemini Xera light head. Single led light, the battery lasted 2 hours 44 min. the last 45 min. it was in red flashing mode.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

X2 with 6 cell Xeccon battery went out at 3:31 and started test at 9:50. 2:45 green led indicator started to flash but light stayed on high. At 3:10 light got dimmer till out at 3:31. So about 5 hours and 45 min. total run time.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

X2 powered by Magicshine 4 cell battery started at 10:20 is still going at 3:56, but is clear these x2 must be different because the rear led went into flash mode at 12:58. Than light got really dim and is still producing light now but so dim. If I unplug it and use one of the other x2 lights it will not turn on. Plugged it back in and still going. No heat at all, still going at 4:20.


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## morepower (May 14, 2012)

Vancbiker said:


> That indicates that the 12,000mAh battery is really ~6,000mAh. Chinese spec inflation at its finest.


Not surprised but it is double the life of the original one and at the price buying a good battery pack still makes it a cheap light unit..


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## mtbRevolution (Aug 10, 2012)

dgw7000 said:


> X2 powered by Magicshine 4 cell battery started at 10:20 is still going at 3:56, but is clear these x2 must be different because the rear led went into flash mode at 12:58. Than light got really dim and is still producing light now but so dim. If I unplug it and use one of the other x2 lights it will not turn on. Plugged it back in and still going. No heat at all, still going at 4:20.


dgw, I hope you have unplugged this by now. The battery can over-discharge if you run it down completely.

@Kir: this is what I don't get about some of these lights. The culprits are normally 3.7v-4.2v light systems that tend to deplete like a NiMH battery. Isn't the protection circuit in the battery supposed to kick in and shut it down? What is causing it to bypass the safety?


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Yea I shut it down at 4:30, These lights were all bought from the same supplier on ebay. I think I'll sell these and go with Gloworm or Gemini you know what your paying for with them.

Leonard how is the newer Xeccon S12 Two light?


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## mtbRevolution (Aug 10, 2012)

dgw7000 said:


> Yea I shut it down at 4:30, These lights were all bought from the same supplier on ebay. I think I'll sell these and go with Gloworm or Gemini you know what your paying for with them.
> 
> Leonard how is the newer Xeccon S12 Two light?


The battery that was used in this last test is the 4 cell MJ-6030 correct? Was expecting it to deplete about the same time as the Gemini. Was waiting and waiting for your runtime update post after the Gemini depleted. Was actually impressed as the minutes past. Now I know what happened.

5 hours 45 mins for the X2 with 7800mAh is not bad at all. Was expecting more since we had a better result when you shared the battery with 2 light heads.

Don't want to derail the thread. Talk about the S12 Two in the other thread later.


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## back bowl (Nov 2, 2013)

I'm going to buy a solarstorm x2 or some clone in the next week. What is going to be my best bet for a supplier? I've read this whole thread (whew) and it seems like there's been a lot of variation in both light and battery quality depending on where and when you buy - so my question is, if you've purchased recently and got good product, who'd you buy from and what did you buy? I'm willing to buy a light and battery separately, but I'm looking to keep the total under $45...


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## rvanderwerf (Feb 27, 2011)

Wow, looks like you could light up the outer reaches of the solar system with all those lights! 



dgw7000 said:


> Ok, I'm testing now !! All Solarstorm lights, x2 power by Xeccon 6 cell 7800mah battery and x3 power by another Xeccon 7800mah battery. Inside test with high powered fan started at 9:50 am.
> 
> Than I decided to also test x2 powered by Gemini 4 cell 5200mah battery and x2 powered by Magicshine 4 cell 5600mah started test at 10:20 am.
> 
> All batteries charged by same Gemini charger, all light s on high setting. The x3 green led at rear of light head goes to 2 within seconds after turning on, so the indicator are not very accurate. Also the rubber bands that come with lights are junk, they will break. The Gemini bands are great !! I think the Xeccon will run the x2 for 6+ hours on high. Will see.


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## ironbrewer (Oct 17, 2012)

back bowl said:


> I'm going to buy a solarstorm x2 or some clone in the next week. What is going to be my best bet for a supplier? I've read this whole thread (whew) and it seems like there's been a lot of variation in both light and battery quality depending on where and when you buy - so my question is, if you've purchased recently and got good product, who'd you buy from and what did you buy? I'm willing to buy a light and battery separately, but I'm looking to keep the total under $45...


There is a chance you may get lucky and get a good battery (last maybe 2 hours on high), but probably not. I doubt you can get a light head and a quality battery for less than $45 unless you get lucky.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

mtbRevolution said:


> @Kir: this is what I don't get about some of these lights. The culprits are normally 3.7v-4.2v light systems that tend to deplete like a NiMH battery. Isn't the protection circuit in the battery supposed to kick in and shut it down? What is causing it to bypass the safety?


Protection PCB can fail, but thats probably not the reason for this.
Different batteries use different protection pcbs, or rather different voltage cutoff levels. Safe level is about 6v (3v per cell), but some pcbs will allow discharge up to 4.8-5v (2.4-2.5v per cell). 
Dual XML lights like SSX use 2 leds connected in series and buck/step-down driver which will work as long as input voltage is higher than the voltage on leds (about 3v for xml, so 6v for 2 leds). 
When input voltage will fall below 6v the light will drop out of regulation and leds will start to dim. At the same time current from battery will decrease too, at 5v SSX2 will take about 0.05A - so this "very dim" stage can last for a very long time. 







It will look like this.

This is actually very useful as a secondary protection - you won't be able to discharge your battery lower than ~5v because brightness/current draw will drop to almost zero at this voltage.
If you want to compare runtimes on different batteries - use SSX3, it should have boost driver (3 leds in series) that will not go out of regulation until the protection pcb activates in battery.


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

One led of my solarstorm x2 stop working.
Any ideas to the solution?


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Replace the led, you need to know how to solder or find somebody who does. Or just check the wires and led's soldering to star, it could be a broken contact somewhere.


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

I already check the wires and I don't see any broken.
How I check the led soldering to star?
I have to talk with Sunny of lightmalls because the light have only one week.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

you can measure the voltage on the led as a starting point ...


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

How I do that?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

If you don't have electrical skill you should let some electrician take a look at that. To measure voltage you need a multimeter and attach plus probe on red cable and minus/black probe on black cable. See this, but take care!!!


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## morepower (May 14, 2012)

zaang said:


> I already check the wires and I don't see any broken.
> How I check the led soldering to star?
> I have to talk with Sunny of lightmalls because the light have only one week.


Send it back as a warranty claim... Faulty goods... Easier than fixing it...


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

The shipping costs is more than a new one 
I'm from Portugal.

Edit: I already talk with the store and they will send a new one for only 7 euros, is more cheaper to me because the shipping costs from portugal to claim the warranty are +/- 20 euros.....

About the faulty solarstorm x2 i have, you think is the led is damaged?
Where i can get a new led (with the star) to fix this?
also need a lens, i let dropped and was chipped.
The fasttech has several but do not know which indicated

thanks


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## glovemtb (Mar 12, 2006)

Thanks for thread guys it helped as I have not been in market for 3 years till now as my MagicShine battery is almost dead.
I tried this one with my Amex card so I won't get burned.(oops sorry  )


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Buyers beware: my cycling club's mate has just received SSX2 ordered from LightMalls:
Black Color SolarStorm X2 2*Cree XM-L2 2200-Lumen Led Bike Light Without Battery Pack - Bicycle Lights Lamp Cap - Bicycle Light & Headlamp Worldwide Free Shipping!!!

Among traditional assembling imperfections, there's also an epic fail: the LED mounting pills are just plain absent! The LEDs inside are literally hanging in the air, with no any thermal sinking at all:


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

-Archie- said:


> Buyers beware: my cycling club's mate has just received SSX2 ordered from LightMalls:
> Black Color SolarStorm X2 2*Cree XM-L2 2200-Lumen Led Bike Light Without Battery Pack - Bicycle Lights Lamp Cap - Bicycle Light & Headlamp Worldwide Free Shipping!!!
> 
> Among traditional assembling imperfections, there's also an epic fail: the LED mounting pills are just plain absent! The LEDs inside are literally hanging in the air, with no any thermal sinking at all:


Damn, that's the one I ordered almost five weeks ago and still haven't received. F these guys.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Archie - You sound surprised???


***


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

scar said:


> Archie - You sound surprised???


Yes, I am. I've seen quite many Chinese lights of various design and different grades of [so to speak] quality: thermal management was excellent, acceptable, barely adequate, mediocre, poor, terrible, anything - but it was present. This time, I'm surprised indeed...


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I would write lightmalls for sure, mine SSX2 U2 have both alloy pills


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

MK96 said:


> I would write lightmalls for sure, mine SSX2 U2 have both alloy pills


Is it just a round disc? I tried to look at the pictures on previous pages, but I didn't really see a picture of that one part by itself. Where did you buy yours?


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

I'm waiting for two of these.......


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Mine U2's are from lightmalls: SolarStorm/FandyFire X2 - Page 10

the alloy pill is pretty thick and yes a sort of a round disc press-fitted inside the case



varider said:


> Is it just a round disc? I tried to look at the pictures on previous pages, but I didn't really see a picture of that one part by itself. Where did you buy yours?


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

And you buy only the head light from lightmalls?
I'm waiting for the shipping of two head lights with xm-l2 and I have afraid they don't have thermal protection....
Do you think is better I talk tho lightmalls send me the xm-l U2 versions because the thermal protection?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

zaang, yes I bought the light head only. Well maybe you get the one with the correct alloy pill inside.

BTW is there anyone who can post photos of xm-l2 version of this light from lightmalls? I mean besides this poorly made one


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

MK96 said:


> Mine U2's are from lightmalls: SolarStorm/FandyFire X2 - Page 10
> 
> the alloy pill is pretty thick and yes a sort of a round disc press-fitted inside the case


I don't have any kind of machining capability other than a drill, a couple of saws etc. I doubt I could make that kind of disc with any kind of precision. You really need a lathe of some sort. Maybe a hole saw?

Hopefully I won't get f'ed like Archie's friend.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

If you can buy (as Kir measured 20 mm) some alloy or copper rod about 20 mm thick, you can try it at least. Or use some 20 mm cent/euro/whatever coin if you get the bad one


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I think I may be able to get an automotive expansion plug and ram it in there
Buy Dorman - Autograde Brass Cup-Type Expansion Plug 20mm 565-101.1 at Advance Auto Parts

I don't even have the light yet. Let's hope I don't have this problem.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

i'm still waiting on mine from lightmalls. its been a couple weeks. how long did it take you guys to recieve yours in the usa? heres what my tracking looks like:

the top entry which is the latest happened about a week ago.

Destination Country - Usa:Tracking Consuming:562 Millisecond
, , Origin Post is Preparing Shipment

Origin Country - Singapore:Tracking Consuming:2106 Millisecond, Cache Time:2013/11/04 10:46:20
28-10-2013, Despatched to overseas (Country code: US)
22-10-2013, Information Received (This is not an acknowledgment of the physical receipt of the stated Registered Article)


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I ordered on Sep 30 from lightmalls. I think it took until Oct 18 to leave Singapore. There was some sort of holiday in there though. I still don't have it.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Maybe someone wants to help this person get their money back without having to wait weeks/months-

SolarStorm Light Head and Xeccon S12 Kit - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories

**


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

varider said:


> I ordered on Sep 30 from lightmalls. I think it took until Oct 18 to leave Singapore. There was some sort of holiday in there though. I still don't have it.


wow thats long. I was expecting 2-3 weeks. what happens when you use your tracking number on usps.com? mine says "Origin Post is Preparing Shipment", date/time, location are blank.


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## Brooks04 (Jun 1, 2004)

scar said:


> Maybe someone wants to help this person get their money back without having to wait weeks/months-
> 
> SolarStorm Light Head and Xeccon S12 Kit - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories
> 
> **


Thank you Scar. The Xeccon S12 has been sold. The SolarStorm Light Head is still available and ready to ship. I will ship priority mail so someone could receive it in 2-3 days - NOT weeks or months!


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Gabe3 said:


> wow thats long. I was expecting 2-3 weeks. what happens when you use your tracking number on usps.com? mine says "Origin Post is Preparing Shipment", date/time, location are blank.


Mine says the same. I don't think it will show anything until it's delivered!

This might be another option for the missing heat disc. They will be slightly too big though. 
Qty 10 Copper DISCS 7/8 x 22g Copper by KlynnJewelryDesigns


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

If the pill is 20 mm I would stay with 20 mm. If there will be some freeplay after fitting I would drop some thermal paste between pill, led and housing, but it is something that can be repaired quite easily :thumbsup:


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

-Archie- said:


> Among traditional assembling imperfections, there's also an epic fail: the LED mounting pills are just plain absent! The LEDs inside are literally hanging in the air, with no any thermal sinking at all:


Normally the SS uses 16 mm stars. Those look like 20. For the XM-L2s did they run out of 16, and make do with the 20s, but the reflectors wouldn't fit back in, so they took out the pills to make space? Or did your friend just get a really messed up one. Or is the only thing SS on these the case.

How thick would the pill be normally be, if it were there?

Hopefully this is an anomaly. As other people get theirs, hopefully they'll check, and report in.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Ian_C said:


> Normally the SS uses 16 mm stars. Those look like 20. For the XM-L2s did they run out of 16, and make do with the 20s, but the reflectors wouldn't fit back in, so they took out the pills to make space? Or did your friend just get a really messed up one. Or is the only thing SS on these the case.
> 
> How thick would the pill be normally be, if it were there?
> 
> Hopefully this is an anomaly. As other people get theirs, hopefully they'll check, and report in.


^^Great points!
The joys of cheapo lights.
I have a XM-L2 head coming via EBay....I guess I'll take it apart before I use it.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

mtbRevolution nailed it earlier in this thread -



mtbRevolution said:


> My 2¢. There isn't an explosion of _bike light manufacturers_ in Shenzhen. What we are seeing in the past 6 months is a cheaper business model reflected in prices we see. These _bike light assemblers_ get their casings/shells from a handful of suppliers sometimes brand pre-printed. They get their driver boards, reflectors and LEDs from another group of suppliers and then there's batteries and chargers all squeezed into a box set. This is partly the reason why there are price differences with the "same" model on different sites. We also see price difference in same sites at different times. Some here noted different driver boards for the same model they bought within a short time span.


*****


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> Yes, I am. I've seen quite many Chinese lights of various design and different grades of [so to speak] quality: thermal management was excellent, acceptable, barely adequate, mediocre, poor, terrible, anything - but it was present. This time, I'm surprised indeed...


You already talk with lightmalls because the missing thermal pill?
If yes, what they say?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

It's not mine. Light's owner will probably contact them...


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

Ok.
But if possible, give me some feed back when your friend talk with lightmalls


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Sure.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Ian_C said:


> How thick would the pill be normally be, if it were there?


As I had SS apart, it looked like 2-3 mm thick alloy hardly press fitted in the case. I think somewhere in the thread are some SS photos from Kir.

Found that here!


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

MK96 said:


> As I had SS apart, it looked like 2-3 mm thick alloy hardly press fitted in the case. I think somewhere in the thread are some SS photos from Kir.
> 
> Found that here!


Yeah, that's the picture I remembered seeing but couldn't find. That recess is what will make that part hard to replace. I think you would need a lathe to make that piece. Then again if they are putting in a 20mm star, when it should have only been 16mm, that piece will need to be entirely different. Just thinking out loud.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

zaang said:


> Ok.
> But if possible, give me some feed back when your friend talk with lightmalls


Well, below is LM answer. Enjoy!


> Dear Dmitri
> Thanks , I have sent the pictures to our egineer , he told me that , if the bike light become hot , it will change to low mode , after become cool , you can change it to high mode , as there is a overheating protected systerm with this light , so please don't worry ,
> Best regards
> Sunny


:lol:


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Wow, what a pile of BS. Burn in hell lightmalls

I hope I don't get one of the bad ones, but I have a sinking feeling that I will. 

They are selling XM-L2 version at fasttech also, that's probably a better option. Maybe!


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## ironbrewer (Oct 17, 2012)

Wow thats screwed!

Does lightmalls realize what the internet is and how people find out about online stores??


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

I have a XM-L2 head coming from e4deals on EBay. I wonder what I'll find inside?

They just hit NY...so I should have them next week.


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

I'm waiting for two solarstorm headlights from lightmalls


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

A few weeks ago I ordered a x2 complete set from Lightmalls, just to compare to my other x2 light heads I got from ebay. I tried to cancel the order, they said they can't because it has already been shipped. I still have no shipping info !! I will not deal with them again.


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

If mine two come with this issue I will open a paypal dispute. But I hope not......
My first one burn one led (have the thermal pill), and they give me some discount to buy another one. I buy it (only the headlight) and now I see this........ I will loose my head and make a paypal dispute
This playing with costumers


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes lathe will do it, but you can try by hand using file (not sure about the right word)?? The thickness of 16 & 20 mm star is similiar, so there won't be a problem. The reflector holds the pill & led from the front side, so just to find the right thickness of the pill, use the thermal paste and you are OK.


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

I just received my lightmalls x2 xml2, and they have pills, although they are a little loose in the enclosure. so i added some thermal compound. 

I think on of bats might be duff though. Might just swap to one of my lipos anyway for peace of mind.

for 25 quid i like them, although i dont think they are waterproof...but going to carry on using them


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

You buy the full pack and they have the thermal pills
The problem is when you buy the headlight only....


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

The usable coins as thermal pills in europe/EU are 5 and 10 cents :-D they are 21 and 19 mm and thick about 1.5 mm, I think you can't get any pill cheaper than that :thumbsup::eekster:


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

zaang said:


> You buy the full pack and they have the thermal pills
> The problem is when you buy the headlight only....


Ok. I nearly went head only. Well I kind of did as the bats are rubbish on at least 3 of the 4 I bought (2 for me and the others for 2 friends). 2 low on capacity it seems ( one worse than the other) and the other has too many volts. Still the lights seem Ok considering how cheap they are.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I went for head only and I have pills in there ... to don't trust that - it is a lottery as ususal!


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

zaang said:


> You buy the full pack and they have the thermal pills
> The problem is when you buy the headlight only....


As for now, we know one single case of such incomplete assembling: I don't think it's enough to make any conclusions based on this...


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## rvanderwerf (Feb 27, 2011)

I will check mine, I ordered 2 from lightmalls, heads only, should come by next week.


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## klydesdale (Feb 6, 2005)

varider said:


> Mine says the same. I don't think it will show anything until it's delivered!
> 
> This might be another option for the missing heat disc. They will be slightly too big though.
> [/url]


I ordered a lighthead only on Oct 14 and when I checked USPS.com today, it said it left the local sort facility Nov 10, which means it could have made it to my local PO this morning and been delivered today. USPS also gave me messages on Nov 8, 9 as it went through a NY sorting facility. As of Nov 7, I was still getting the "Origin Post is Preparing Shipment" message.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

klydesdale said:


> I ordered a lighthead only on Oct 14 and when I checked USPS.com today, it said it left the local sort facility Nov 10, which means it could have made it to my local PO this morning and been delivered today. USPS also gave me messages on Nov 8, 9 as it went through a NY sorting facility. As of Nov 7, I was still getting the "Origin Post is Preparing Shipment" message.


Ha, mine updated also. It looks like it left Kearny NJ on the Nov 8. Hopefully I'll get it in the next few days.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

mine also updated over the weekend, it should have come today but its veterans day.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Mine just showed up.
Bought it from e4deals on Ebay as a head only. Got to Boston in about 1 week.
Has the threaded style connector...which has a very loose fit to Magicshine style battery connectors. Are you guys changing or modding the connector?

EDIT: took a file to the connector and all is well.
Quick basement test and this thing is bright! ( XM-L2 unit)
Compared to my Hi-Max single XML U2...it's about the same on the mid setting.
Looks a little whiter than my 3x clone.
I guess I have to ride tonight.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I finally got it. I ordered it on Sep 29 or 30th from lightmalls, lighthead only with xm-l2. That's a six week wait! There was a holiday in there somewhere. 

I took it apart to see if it had the heat sink pill, and luckily it did! Based on the advice given here, I took it apart and added some thermal compound. I used the stuff that you use between the cpu and the heatsink in a desktop computer. This took much longer than I expected, plus I managed to rip one of the led wires from the driver board. About 45 minutes total.

The pill sits on this lip, but it moves around a lot when you trying to put it back together. It's tough to get it centered, and honestly I don't think I got it 100% centered when I was finished. Then just when you think you have it, the force of the wires pushes it out of place (I had both the driver and led side open). I ended up getting thermal compound all over the inside of the light. In the end, I'm not sure how effective my repair was, but I suppose it's better than nothing. If you don't have a soldering iron I wouldn't even attempt to do this. The reflectors are a little bit hard to remove and install.

Here's some pictures for future reference. The pill itself is a complicated shape. One thing I didn't do is to try and remove the led board from the pill. Did you guys do that?


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

should I even take mine apart to check? i dont really want to mess with it unless I have to. or if its going to cause damage to it if I don't add thermal paste. the light should turn off if it gets too hot?

mine gets delivered today.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Gabe3 said:


> should I even take mine apart to check? i dont really want to mess with it unless I have to. or if its going to cause damage to it if I don't add thermal paste. the light should turn off if it gets too hot?
> 
> mine gets delivered today.


Just take the front part of the light off. You can then take the glass in front of the reflector off, and take out the rubber ring. Then you take the reflector out with a micro screwdriver, you have pry it out gently. Then you will be able to see if you have the aluminum pill (third picture).

Do you have to add thermal compound? I don't know to be honest. I was just being on the safe side. You do have to careful with the wires.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

I planned to take mine apart...but why bother?
I'll take it apart if it fails.
Great light!


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

the mayor said:


> EDIT: took a file to the connector and all is well.


Yeah, I took a razor blade and file to the black ring that slides into the battery connector. I also trimmed the white o-ring. It was a super tight fit into a standard magicshine battery, but now it works much better. I was worried about stretching out the battery's connector before.

This light is definitely bright. It's also a much smaller body than I expected. The switch has a nice positive click to it, with instantaneous mode changes. The flash is actually useful, i.e. slow, and is accessed by a multi-second hold.

Very good buy at $28.05 for the light-head only.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

The best place to get them are ebay idem # 261287007964. 20.00 bucks for light head, free shipping. They only take about 8 days to you. Great seller.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

dgw7000 said:


> The best place to get them are ebay idem # 261287007964. 20.00 bucks for light head, free shipping. They only take about 8 days to you. Great seller.


That is the older U2 LED. I got the XM-L2 for $5 more


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

varider said:


> Yeah, I took a razor blade and file to the black ring that slides into the battery connector. I also trimmed the white o-ring. It was a super tight fit into a standard magicshine battery, but now it works much better. I was worried about stretching out the battery's connector before.
> 
> Very good buy at $28.05 for the light-head only.


I just took the o-ring off. I might hit the hardware store and get a thinner o ring.
And yeah...I didn't want to stretch the battery connectors so my other lights will still work with them.
I got mine for $25....and I'm sure they'll be cheaper in a few weeks.


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## oldfox (Nov 20, 2008)

Hi!

I'm looking for a bar light, has anyone tried this one?

LetterFire LF-22 2 x CREE XM-L T6 1000lm 3-Mode White Bicycle Headlight - Black (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

It has an OP refector, so it shoud have a wider beam...


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I would go for 3 XML clone or these 2 XML clones (SS X2, MJ 880, yinding) with TIR lenses instead of alloy reflectors. You can set the width of the beam in many different ways from 5 to 120 degree.


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## oldfox (Nov 20, 2008)

MK96 said:


> I would go for 3 XML clone or these 2 XML clones (SS X2, MJ 880, yinding) with TIR lenses instead of alloy reflectors. You can set the width of the beam in many different ways from 5 to 120 degree.


Thank's MK96!

I understand the yinding already comes with TIR lenses and I like the beam patern, but i'm more inclined to the MJ-880 clone beacuse I prefer the UI (not having to go trough off while changing modes)

I might go for the MJ-880 clone and then try to change the optics if i'm not happy with the beam patern.

I'm planning to use the ligth on the bars with a MJ808 Clone with OP reflector on the helmet I already have


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

is there going to be a noticeable difference between the U2 and L2 versions? I'm asking for a friend cause I don't think he'll want to wait 3-4 weeks for the L2 when the U2 can be had in 8 days like dgw7000 says.

used the L2 from lightmalls last night, pretty bright. battery only lasts an hour though. ordered this battery to replace it:

Amazon.com: Replacement 8.4V 6600mAh Rechargeable Battery Pack for Headlamp & Bicycle Light: Sports & Outdoors


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

IMHO the difference will be barely noticable at this current. If you drive it harder, there will be some difference - but the L2 needs to be on a copper plate. Now you can get L2 T6 in 3A/B/C or 4C tints which are neutral white, L2 U2 is just blueish 0A/D or 1A/D tint. You can upgrade emitters at any time for about $10-12, so go for which one you like.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I have thinking the same thing about the difference between the u2 and the new L2 led, so I ordered the L2 light head only from e4deals like "the Mayor" pointed out. Looks like shipping time is about the same as I had with Outdoorlights from ebay. I will not order from Lightmalls again, people waiting 6 weeks is crazy !! As far as the screw cap on connector of light head I just put some heat from a lighter and it slips right over battery connector. The heat will allow it to form around making a good tight fit, did this to all 5 of mine.
Also you will not get a good battery for 20 bucks, spend 40 bucks you will !!


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

dgw7000 said:


> I have thinking the same thing about the difference between the u2 and the new L2 led, so I ordered the L2 light head only from e4deals like "the Mayor" pointed out. Looks like shipping time is about the same as I had with Outdoorlights from ebay. I will not order from Lightmalls again, people waiting 6 weeks is crazy !! As far as the screw cap on connector of light head I just put some heat from a lighter and it slips right over battery connector. The heat will allow it to form around making a good tight fit, did this to all 5 of mine.
> Also you will not get a good battery for 20 bucks, spend 40 bucks you will !!


if you stretch the battery connectors out for the x2's connector it would make them loose on other lights though? or did you order 5 x2's?

that battery i linked people say lasts easy for 120 mins on the 3x clone, so might get 3 hrs on the solarstorm. all I need is 2 hrs.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Gabe3 said:


> if you stretch the battery connectors out for the x2's connector it would make them loose on other lights though? or did you order 5 x2's?
> 
> that battery i linked people say lasts easy for 120 mins on the 3x clone, so might get 3 hrs on the solarstorm. all I need is 2 hrs.


Yes...it will make the battery useless with other lights....which is why I took a minute to file my light connector down.

Don't know which battery you are referring to...but I used the battery that came with my Hi-Max light which is a claimed 4 * 18650/4400MAH and it ran my SSx2 for over 2 hours ( I plan to let it run tonight to see how much more time was left)


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Looks like they have one with the normal MS type connector on DX. Thoughts?

SL-8208B 2-Cree XM-L U2 2000lm 4-Mode White Bicycle Light / Headlamp - Black (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

A few day ago my solarstorm x2 XM-L2 from lightmalls burn one led on the first 10 minutes of a ride (I post a photo a few days ago), today I go to a night ride and after 5 minutes the other led burn to.
Any one have this problems with this product from lightmalls?
Fault products maybe?


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

TiGeo said:


> Looks like they have one with the normal MS type connector on DX. Thoughts?
> 
> SL-8208B 2-Cree XM-L U2 2000lm 4-Mode White Bicycle Light / Headlamp - Black (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme


It has the older LED...and who knows what for a battery.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

*SSX2 Connector problems*

I noticed the other day that if you have the standard SSX2 with the screw cap plug connector that that the connection with a standard Magicshine type ( female ) plug is not really a tight fit. It will work but since the connection is not as tight as it should be I noticed that the number of lit green led's indicators will vary depending on how well you get the plug to connect with the other ( female ) MS type plug. This goes to show that even a minor loose connection can cause enough of a voltage drop to effect the voltage monitoring. Not a big deal but if the wire moves and loosens the connection you might think you are running out of run time when indeed it is just a connection problem. I thought this worth noting.

As others have done it might be worth modding the plug or just replacing the plug with a standard MS type plug. I just received one of the Nitefire Hero2's. This is a lamp similar in design to the SSX2 only with three XM-L's. It too has the same plug problem but a bit more severe than the one on the SSX2. I'll likely try filing down the first plastic ring and if that doesn't work I'll probably just replace the plug.

For the life of me I don't know why the Chinese decided to step away from the standard Magicshine type plug. The MS type plugs worked fine. Big mistake on their part. Would be nice if someone sold a ready made adapter.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

TiGeo said:


> Looks like they have one with the normal MS type connector on DX. Thoughts?
> 
> SL-8208B 2-Cree XM-L U2 2000lm 4-Mode White Bicycle Light / Headlamp - Black (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme


There you go. It's the little things that can make a difference. :thumbsup:


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

zaang said:


> A few day ago my solarstorm x2 XM-L2 from lightmalls burn one led on the first 10 minutes of a ride (I post a photo a few days ago), today I go to a night ride and after 5 minutes the other led burn to.
> Any one have this problems with this product from lightmalls?
> Fault products maybe?


O Oh. Did you take it apart and look at it?

I haven't ridden with mine yet.


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

The led have a black dot, and when I turn it on he make a small spark. It's burned


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

zaang said:


> The led have a black dot, and when I turn it on he make a small spark. It's burned


Yeah ... that sounds broken

You have lost the Chinese light roulette. Please play again!

Is there adequate heat sinking from the led to the body? I have a feeling that they cooked themselves to death.


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

Update on the ones I ordered.

I ordered 4 X2 from light malls. Batteries are 2s2p. All of th are about 2000mah or the abouts. Pretty poor for 2s2p, but buy the fact they are all like.it I assume.they are.just low capacity cells. I did some cycle tests taking 0.7A down to 6v. And also testing one till the led flashed.on the head. One battery pack had a dodgy pcb. So that one will one get modified to remove the protection.


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

Sorry for typing/spelling. Used my phone to reply


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

varider said:


> Yeah ... that sounds broken
> 
> You have lost the Chinese light roulette. Please play again!
> 
> Is there adequate heat sinking from the led to the body? I have a feeling that they cooked themselves to death.


The photo of the second burned led XM-L2


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

zaang said:


> The photo of the second burned led XM-L2
> 
> View attachment 847252


I can't tell what's going on in that picture. I don't have that much experience diagnosing led problems. I don't think there is much you can do, is there? You can replace the led's, but how do you know it won't do it again?

Can someone help out zaang?


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## eggdog (Nov 17, 2010)

Just received a SolarStorm X2 that I purchased from Newegg. Of course the supplied battery is subpar, but even when I attach the light to quality batteries ( Gemini Duo 2 cell, and Xecocon 6 cell) it draws down very quickly. Just did a test and I can get 1 hr on the Gemini battery and a little over 2 hrs on the Xeccon Both batteries are new and fully charged...

What is causing the big draw of power? Light is run on HIGH power and in front of a fan...No real extreme heat on the unit.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

One thing I noticed and don't like is the insulation of the both + and - cables - too stripped down. Seems to me that it was driven under conditions out of cree specs. Poinitng to the bad driver - excessive voltage. Some info here and also here. Also happened to one of my Cree XR-E torches driven at 8.4V and 0.9A - but the blue color of the led was noticeable ;-) Now it has some stains when working under normal conditions - but I experimented on my own to see what comes. If the driver is bad, they might burn again. If there is weak heat transfer they also might burn again :skep:


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Its all very simple really - you're buying THE cheapest lights so you're getting THE worst quality. And whats even worse - some of you are saying things like:


the mayor said:


> I planned to take mine apart...but why bother?
> I'll take it apart if it fails.
> Great light!


If you're buying light for $20 - you should open it up and fix everything before using it...because it WILL need to be fixed.

These wires are way too thin for 2+A current so you should replace them. Insulation is stripped too much so wires can short circuit on aluminium star and burn out the driver. These pills are supposed to be press-fitted into the case but that costs money - so they aren't. You should apply thermal paste between them and the casing to avoid led burnouts like on this picture (melted plastic spacer is a good indicator that led reached very high temp).


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Kir said:


> Its all very simple really - you're buying THE cheapest lights so you're getting THE worst quality. And whats even worse - some of you are saying things like:
> 
> If you're buying light for $20 - you should open it up and fix everything before using it...because it WILL need to be fixed.


To each his own. 
I bought a $20 light because it's disposable, 
Some ...like you...buy it for a DIY project.


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## pigmode (Nov 15, 2009)

varider said:


> I took it apart to see if it had the heat sink pill, and luckily it did!


Are you able to show in your pics, where you applied the thermal compound?


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

pigmode said:


> Are you able to show in your pics, where you applied the thermal compound?


There's a small lip (see pictures 10 and 11 on previous page) where the pill rests. I tried to cover that surface entirely. It's tough to see on the pictures because I couldn't get the camera to focus on that one spot. It's pretty obvious once you take it apart.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

the mayor said:


> To each his own.
> I bought a $20 light because it's disposable,
> Some ...like you...buy it for a DIY project.


I agree. When I buy I lamp for $25 I will use it till it fails. IF..something fails on the lamp I can then disassemble and try my hand at modding OR just buy another.

Food for thought...These lamps are so inexpensive you can afford to buy an extra for back up.


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## artzi (Jan 23, 2013)

...


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Cat-man-do said:


> I agree. When I buy I lamp for $25 I will use it till it fails. IF..something fails on the lamp I can then disassemble and try my hand at modding OR just buy another.
> 
> Food for thought...These lamps are so inexpensive you can afford to buy an extra for back up.


Even for $25 it should last at least a few months, in my opinion. zaang's light failed very quickly and archie's friend's light was missing a key heat sink. That's total BS. I'm not in to wasting money and the disposable culture.

I've been using a $30 MS 872 clone multiple times a week for the last six months. If it broke now, I would say it got my money worth and I wouldn't be too disappointed. Hopefully the X2 will have the same track record.

I think most of the problems have been with the xm-l2 version also. I'm not sure that we are seeing the xm-l2 version straight from the factory. I think these have all been after-manufacture modifications. So maybe the best policy is to stay away from the xm-l2 version for now.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

You can buy $25 light and use it till it fails on the road in a few days leaving you in darkness and a long distance from home.
Or you can buy $35 light that won't have any thermal problems and will work for at least 1 year.
Or you can buy $25 light, spend 10 minutes to fix it and it'll work fine for at least 1 year too.

Choices, choices...


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

Yes I agreed and I maybe buy a XML U2 version from dx. A few friends have this one and no issues.....


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Kir said:


> You can buy $25 light and use it till it fails on the road in a few days leaving you in darkness and a long distance from home.
> Or you can buy $35 light that won't have any thermal problems and will work for at least 1 year.
> Or you can buy $25 light, spend 10 minutes to fix it and it'll work fine for at least 1 year too.
> 
> Choices, choices...


I think you've been sniffing too much solder....


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

No, he is right ;-) Kir just wrote some of the choices. I would take the third one.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Kir said:


> You can buy $25 light and use it till it fails on the road in a few days leaving you in darkness and a long distance from home.
> Or you can buy $35 light that won't have any thermal problems and will work for at least 1 year.
> Or you can buy $25 light, spend 10 minutes to fix it and it'll work fine for at least 1 year too.
> 
> Choices, choices...


Although I enjoy reading your technical posts here....^^that is just bunghole dribble.

There's a difference between a $25 light and $35 one? You can get the same light from 2 different vendors for very different prices....or you can get a poorer quality light for a higher price. It's a crap shoot.

And you can't tell how long a light is going to last....whether it's untouched or if you mod it. I've had brand new high $$$ lights fail within a few hours.

I always run 2 lights....so I'm not too worried about being left in the dark.

I think it's great that you like to monkey with your cheap lights. Have at it.

If I wanted a DIY project...I'd copy a lot of your ideas....or start from scratch.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

varider said:


> Even for $25 it should last at least a few months, in my opinion. *zaang's light failed very quickly and archie's friend's light was missing a key heat sink. That's total BS. I'm not in to wasting money and the disposable culture. *
> 
> I've been using a $30 MS 872 clone multiple times a week for the last six months. If it broke now, I would say it got my money worth and I wouldn't be too disappointed. Hopefully the X2 will have the same track record.
> 
> I think most of the problems have been with the xm-l2 version also. I'm not sure that we are seeing the xm-l2 version straight from the factory. I think these have all been after-manufacture modifications. So maybe the best policy is to stay away from the xm-l2 version for now.


Even Zaang, ( who has posted only in this thread ) initially said that he had friends who owned one and that they had no problems. About Archie's friend; Any of us know him or know how much he knows about electronics and modding these kind's of lamps. Hey, whatever....Stuff happens. As I see it it's still "Business as usual". A Chinese lamp is still a "CHINESE" lamp.

No one is claiming that the SSX2's are "above average" in design or reliability. Of the thousands that are sold there are going to be people getting them that will have problems. That said these are the most inexpensive lamps available. Since these continue to be popular I wouldn't let the misfortune of a few keep me from buying one if I were in the market for a cheap lamp and only had about $40 to spend. Even if you did get a dud ( the first time ) if you roll the dice again and buy a second I think it highly unlikely you would get another bad one...just saying. You can buy a better more reliable brand name light but that will mean more money up front. You can buy two of the cheap Chinese lamps and still not spend the money you did for a single brand name lamp. Choices, choices...indeed.


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## adrianhims (Jun 11, 2011)

I'm thinking of buying a solarstorm x2, I'm thonking of buying from ebay: SKYRAY SolarStorm 2x CREE XML U2 LED Bike Bicycle HeadLamp Light +4x 18650 D0145 | eBay
Do you think it has a good price? Do you think it has good quality for the price it costs?


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

adrianhims said:


> I'm thinking of buying a solarstorm x2, I'm thonking of buying from ebay: SKYRAY SolarStorm 2x CREE XML U2 LED Bike Bicycle HeadLamp Light +4x 18650 D0145 | eBay
> Do you think it has a good price? Do you think it has good quality for the price it costs?


That's the U2 version. I picked up a XM_L2 version as a head only for $25. Buy a good battery and you're good to go.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

Kir said:


> You can buy $25 light and use it till it fails on the road in a few days leaving you in darkness and a long distance from home.
> Or you can buy $35 light that won't have any thermal problems and will work for at least 1 year.
> Or you can buy $25 light, spend 10 minutes to fix it and it'll work fine for at least 1 year too.
> 
> Choices, choices...


should always use two lights, even a super duper $500 light can fail.


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## MHC (Oct 23, 2009)

Mine has arrived from LM but DOA - connect the battery & the lights around the button illuminate but nothing from the LEDs, awaiting a reply from LM.
Anyone else had this?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> About Archie's friend; Any of us know him or know how much he knows about electronics and modding these kind's of lamps.


While I'm agree with most of your message, the quoted statement really surprised me... In your opinion, his electronic skills could have any relation to the missing components in delivered light?


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## Bettega (Oct 7, 2011)

I got my SS x2 xm-l2 from Lightmalls yesterday (3 weeks delivery to Sweden). My lamp do HAVE those heat sink pills! I was thinking of doing a semi Kir modification and add some thermal paste / grease / compound / glue between the pill and the casing . However, I'm just a DIY newbie in china lights and I was wondering what kind of compound (paste, grease or glue. Is there a difference?) I should use for these pills?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

-Archie- said:


> While I'm agree with most of your message, the quoted statement really surprised me... In your opinion, his electronic skills could have any relation to the missing components in delivered light?


Arch, I'm not intending to offend anyone. I'm just expressing doubt. Now if the person mentioned has taken many of these apart and has clearly seen a difference between the others and the one with the so-called missing part...well, I'll owe your friend an apology. In the mean time there is a big difference between missing parts and a potential design difference. Only real way to know for sure is to order another _from the same place_. If they are the same then it is by design ( for better or worse ). Keep in mind different sellers will sometimes order stock to certain specifications. Different drivers, LED bins, buttons, O-rings, wire gauge, etc...etc.. Wouldn't surprise me to see a lamp ordered by the seller with a *_lousy heat sink design_ in an attempt to save money. ( *see Kir's review of the D99 )

Oh and Arch, skill and knowledge are two different things. My comment pertained to knowledge. Since I don't know your friend personally it's understandable to question the person's knowledge. Just because you can tear something apart doesn't mean you understand what the manufacturers had in mind when they built it. Now if your friend just wants to say it's a poor design with lousy heat sinking...THAT I can accept at face value but only because it fits what is already known about these kind of lamps.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

I'd suppose, in some cases knowledge and expirience is required indeed - but we are talking about quite simple matters here. 

As yet another example, I remember a photo of opened chinese "2s2p" battery where half of cells were substituted by hollow tubes: in such case, one don't have to be an expert with background of thousand previously opened batteries to recognize piece of junk - and it doesn't matter whether it was done "by design": it's clearly still the attempt to sell garbage, looking identical to the 'real thing' at first glance. 

Abovementioned SSX2 without pills is the same story...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

-Archie- said:


> I'd suppose, in some cases knowledge and expirience is required indeed - but we are talking about quite simple matters here.
> 
> As yet another example, I remember a photo of opened chinese "2s2p" battery where half of cells were substituted by hollow tubes: in such case, one don't have to be an expert with background of thousand previously opened batteries to recognize piece of junk - and it doesn't matter whether it was done "by design": it's clearly still the attempt to sell garbage, looking identical to the 'real thing' at first glance.
> 
> Abovementioned SSX2 without pills is the same story...


Not disagreeing about the lamp issue but the battery example you mention is a horse of a different color. A battery is a battery. There are good ones and not so good ones BUT they are still batteries either way. Adding wooden pieces or sand in an attempt to deceive is obvious fraud. Now if you buy a cheap Chinese battery claiming to be 6600mah and it's only 3500mAh you got a poor battery using poor cells...But...it's still a battery, just poor quality. If you buy a battery and half the cells aren't batteries but wood or something else, in all likelyhood it isn't even going to work. In this case you clearly got ripped off. Then again batteries and lamps are two different things and it has been well known for sometime that there are deceptive battery markets. This is why I am always wary on where I buy batteries from...( although from time to time I am known to roll the dice if I think I'm getting a good deal ). 

The D99 came with the LED's just mounted on a circuit board. The circuit board sat on a thin lip that only supported the board on the sides. The way I look at it you can't get much worse than that as far as poor thermal paths go. Still the lamp works. Will it last? Anyone's guess. All depends on how it's used. Would I buy another? On this I have to speculate. If I used it on a regular basis and it continued to work without problem or other issue...probably...unless of course someone else sells another $25 light I like more...

We do of course disagree on what is "junk"..Hey, to each their own. :thumbsup:


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> Not disagreeing about the lamp issue but the battery example you mention is a horse of a different color.
> -snip-
> If you buy a battery and half the cells aren't batteries but wood or something else, in all likelyhood it isn't even going to work.


Mentioned battery worked perfectly - exactly like SSX2 we're speaking about!  In 2s2p configuration, you can safely omit half of cells: just be careful which ones to replace by dummy ones. Resulting 2s1p battery will accept charge and provide power to the load: everything fine, everyone happy.


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## OPC (Jun 16, 2008)

Well my "Ebay" light lasted about 5 minutes, 2 of those where shining stuff around the house and 3 where in a bike ride! The pics show some real shady work. This is the SolarStorm 5000 Lm 2 x CREE XM-L U2 LED from Ebay. :madman:


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Cat-man-do said:


> No one is claiming that the SSX2's are "above average" in design or reliability. Of the thousands that are sold there are going to be people getting them that will have problems. That said these are the most inexpensive lamps available. Since these continue to be popular I wouldn't let the misfortune of a few keep me from buying one if I were in the market for a cheap lamp and only had about $40 to spend. Even if you did get a dud ( the first time ) if you roll the dice again and buy a second I think it highly unlikely you would get another bad one...just saying. You can buy a better more reliable brand name light but that will mean more money up front. You can buy two of the cheap Chinese lamps and still not spend the money you did for a single brand name lamp. Choices, choices...indeed.


I see where you are coming from, and I agree with you for the most part. I do draw the line on missing parts, such as the crucial heat sink pill in this light. You are still spending money on something, and it should at least work out of the box. I think we should at least hold Chinese manufacturers to that standard.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Seems to be the third version of the driver at minimum  The soldering is of a very poor quality indeed  - just check the main red power wire and resistors R100 R010.



OPC said:


> Well my "Ebay" light lasted about 5 minutes, 2 of those where shining stuff around the house and 3 where in a bike ride! The pics show some real shady work. This is the SolarStorm 5000 Lm 2 x CREE XM-L U2 LED from Ebay. :madman:


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## OPC (Jun 16, 2008)

That's what I'm not sure off... Checked voltage at the transistors Q1, Q2 (SOT-23) with Oscilloscope and we had 8V+, checked voltage at the soldering points for the LED (L1, L1-, L2, L2-) and did not get the same, We had 6V and 8V, now for Resistors R100 and R010 they seem to be in parallel and the soldering job as terrible as it looks seems to be making pretty good contact. As far as the LEDs go, one is lit fully but extremely weak (maybe half a lumen if that) while the side that is not lit has one tiny section the size of pin head that lights and nothing else. That side rotates so So i'm thinking that its just fried due to the heat and since it seems to be lose it did not have good heat dissipation.



MK96 said:


> Seems to be the third version of the driver at minimum  The soldering is of a very poor quality indeed  - just check the main red power wire and resistors R100 R010.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

If L1,L1- and L2,L2- is each for one LED, they should be about 2.8-3.5V each. If you measured 6 and 8V the second LED will also burn quickly.


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## OPC (Jun 16, 2008)

MK96 said:


> If L1,L1- and L2,L2- is each for one LED, they should be about 2.8-3.5V each. If you measured 6 and 8V the second LED will also burn quickly.


Checked again... "good" side has +2.45Vdc and "Bad" side +5.85Vdc this is at the highest setting. Looking under a microscope the board is extremely dirty, probably some type of "no clean" flux and soldering but I do see possible tin whiskers around every component including the "no name" IC or it could be external contamination of some sorts. It really looks like every component is fuzzy . Will try to clean it with DI water although I'm not sure if I should proceed since I already contacted the seller about it, however I can aim the thermal camera at it and see if I detect any heat spots. Either way I'm ordering one from Amazon so Amazon.com: SecurityIng® Super Bright 3 X CREE XM-L T6 3600Lm 4 Modes White LED Bike Lamp Cree LED Headlight Solid Bicycle Light and Powerful Headlamp with 8.4V Battery Pack and US Plug Charger Set For Outdoor Hiking, Riding, Camping and Other Activi that way I can deal directly with them instead of the Chinese company.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Do you have loose led's pills too? 
https://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/l...andyfire-x2-07_solarstorm_x2_xml2_smaller.jpg - these ones, can you lift them up like this after removing the reflectors?


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

OPC said:


> s Either way I'm ordering one from Amazon so Amazon.com: SecurityIng® Super Bright 3 X CREE XM-L T6 3600Lm 4 Modes White LED Bike Lamp Cree LED Headlight Solid Bicycle Light and Powerful Headlamp with 8.4V Battery Pack and US Plug Charger Set For Outdoor Hiking, Riding, Camping and Other Activi that way I can deal directly with them instead of the Chinese company.


SecurityIng was one of the better makers ( if they really do make them) of the 3x lamps. Although, they have changed the body ( and who knows what else inside).
I have seen their head only for around $25. If it's as good as the 1 I've had for about a year....it's a great light. IF being the operative word.


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## OPC (Jun 16, 2008)

Kir said:


> Do you have loose led's pills too?
> https://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/l...andyfire-x2-07_solarstorm_x2_xml2_smaller.jpg - these ones, can you lift them up like this after removing the reflectors?


Both are like that! It seems I'm not the only one with that issue then.:nono:


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## OPC (Jun 16, 2008)

Well, even if this is a little more expensive ($43) I rather buy from Amazon since I have Amazon Prime I will get the 2 day free shipping and If anything happens I can return to amazon instead of dealing with the ebay vendor in China... It's what I probably should have done in the first place but some of my coworkers purchased them from ebay and they had no problems, so it's whatever random shop they get them from that has the bad QA.

Only thing is how to hide it from the wife hahaha.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Well this is your problem - pills like this don't offer good thermal transfer by themselves, you have to add thermal paste on them to avoid led overheating and burnout.
Driver pcb looks ok...yes, the soldering is horrible but it should work fine. Problem is that new SSX2s have such horrible "improvements" to keep the cost down that leds are overheating in most of them.


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## OPC (Jun 16, 2008)

Great! Are we talking about the thermal paste that you would add to a CPU Heatsink? They are going to send me a replacement Lamp minus the charger and battery so I can "fix" this one before the same problem happens again.



Kir said:


> Well this is your problem - pills like this don't offer good thermal transfer by themselves, you have to add thermal paste on them to avoid led overheating and burnout.
> Driver pcb looks ok...yes, the soldering is horrible but it should work fine. Problem is that new SSX2s have such horrible "improvements" to keep the cost down that leds are overheating in most of them.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes, this same thermal paste that CPU use.

@Kir isn't the voltage on the bad side too much - 5.8V? Or this number is just because the bad side is not under load?


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

Can I use this thermal paste from coolermaster?
I received today the solarstorm x2 XM-L2 (headlamp only) from lightmalls and I hope this one don't burn the leds...... (Another version of the driver I think)


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Of course you can


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

Done


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

So your pills were loose in that light from LM?


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

Yes, exactly like the photos on post #541


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

I think that most of them have loose pills. Also mine were loose, ordered from aliexpress when first cheap SSX2 appeared.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Snakes said:


> I think that most of them have loose pills. Also mine were loose, ordered from aliexpress when first cheap SSX2 appeared.


I think they are made to be loose. I think they become tighter when you screw in the front bezel.

Is that what you are guys are talking about?

Also, I think the back of the pill has a certain shape which does not exactly match the shape of the lip.


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## Snakes (Aug 22, 2007)

I think that when you screw in the front bezel, reflectors push the pills to the lip.
If I am not wrong Kir wrote in his review that he got light with press fitted pills, they were not loose.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Snakes said:


> I think that when you screw in the front bezel, reflectors push the pills to the lip.
> If I am not wrong Kir wrote in his review that he got light with press fitted pills, they were not loose.


I haven't taken the time ( yet ) to pull the front off of mine but if these lamps have loose pills it was probably decided by the manufacturer to do it this way just to save money. This probably explains why they're going for only $26 for a lamp head.

If the pill is loose ( when the front is removed ) I wouldn't consider this too unusual. Not the ideal situation but it will still work as long as the pill is pushed tight enough against the back of the lamp when assembled. It just won't be as efficient if the pills were sealed to the back with thermal paste. Seeing these lamps are pretty easy to take apart adding a little thermal paste might not be a bad idea. On the few times I've used my SSX2 I've noticed that the output drops once the lamp heats up. Most lamps do this so once again this is not unusual. It was just more noticeable with the X2. Getting better thermal transferal could perhaps lessen this effect.


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## rvanderwerf (Feb 27, 2011)

got my stuff from lightmalls today, had to pick it up at the post office. Somehow the postage translated to USPS registered mail, which requires a signature. I got 2 xml2-u2 solarstorms - heads only, 1 red 1 black. I don't have a battery yet, I got the 4 cell cases shown here from dx.com(the panovo ones), just waiting on my panny cells from amazon. It took 20 days from order date for me to get it, technically 19 when usps left a notice, not bad(i did not order with batteries, head only). I ordered from fasttech before hand on a package a full week earlier, and I still haven't received it - but it went through san fran usps instead of east coast, and it's still lurking in sf.

I took mine apart, 1 is solid, the other (red) is a little iffy. It seems on my red one they used 2 different size reflectors, and tried to shove in 2 pieces of glass in there to make up for it, and no rubber gasket. I probably should see if I can get another properly size reflector and another gasket and put it together properly, but it should function just fine.

Both units seems to have a solid secure heat sync in them tho, and judging by the 2 leads to the led chip vs 3 according to the cree wiki, they are indeed xm-l2 cree leds.















Can't wait to get my cells to try it!


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## neabue (Jan 5, 2011)

I got my SSx2 XM-L2 complete battery & light in today from fasttec (ordered nov 16th). Opened it up to check the pills and there does not appear to be any, as it looks exactly like the one pictured earlier in this thread here. same star shape and everything. Each side had two clear circular lenses with a small o-ring between them, i'm guessing they put the second lens there to take up the space that the pill would have used.

I'm planning to try to rig up a pill before using it so it won't overheat, and I've only turned it on briefly when I got it so hopefully it is still ok. The inside of the casing appears to have two sets of lips on each side, a small one just above what looks like the main lip- in which the star was resting against when I opened it. Trying out some coins to use as a pill, I found that a US nickel was close, but got caught on the first smaller lip so it wouldn't go in far enough to sit against the main lip. I then found some foreign coins and that a mexican $1 peso coin will fit past the first and perfectly on the second rim!

So if i go this route, I'm guessing I will have to drill two holes in the coin, then cut or de-sodder the wires to put through the hole, then sodder the wires back in place? If so, would it be better to cut the wire in the middle and put it together, or desodder from star? I don't want to damage the led so am worried to work too close to it. I was also thinking of maybe cutting a notch out on opposite ends of the coin to slip the wires in place witout taking any of them apart, would this work? There would be slightly less contact with the case, but might be much easier. I would then put some thermal paste between coin & the star, and along the coin edge/casing for either route... Are there any other simple solutions?

This doesn't appear to be a wide-spread problem from reading though this post, so maybe I am one of the few that lost the 'chinese light lottery' but hopefully I can still make it work! So if you have a ssx2 on the way it might be worth taking a look under the hood before you use it! I will post pics when i can, but this is my first post (i've been a long time lurker though) Any other advice on what to do is appreciated! Thanks!


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

That sucks that you got one of the bad ones, especially from fasttech. I thought it was a lightmalls problem only. What a bunch of bums! It's good you took it apart before turning it on.

I would just cut two notches in the coin instead of messing around with the desoldering and soldering. That's just me though. 

I think you have probably found the best solution with the Mexican peso. I would try to smooth out the surface of the coin so that you get the best thermal connection.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

varider said:


> That sucks that you got one of the bad ones, especially from fasttech. I thought it was a lightmalls problem only.


Both of them are resellers, not manufacturers. I'm pretty sure you have chances to get a lemon from any Eastern web shop...


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

They restocked from a bad source


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

-Archie- said:


> Both of them are resellers, not manufacturers. I'm pretty sure you have chances to get a lemon from any Eastern web shop...


Yes, you are right.

I was hoping that fasttech purchased direct from the manufacturer unmodified. My theory was that there was a third party that modified the lights to add the xm-l2 emitters, and these were the people that messing up the lights by removing the pill etc. Obviously that's not the case. Whoever is making these bad modifications is selling them all over the place, i.e lightmalls fasttech and probably others. Maybe these guys just made a bad batch, or maybe there are multiple groups making batches and only one group who makes the bad ones. I would hope the bad ones aren't coming directly from the original manufacturer. I guess there's no way of knowing.

Anyway, if you are getting a bad ones I hope you leave massive negative feedback on the sellers page. Make them learn the hard way.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Guys I have done a review of two X2 SOLARSTORM bought from two different e-bay UK sellers, first one had a faulty battery, second one had a better battery but the head had less output. I have posted some run times with green led recording as well as some outdoor shots. See 
http://forums.mtbr.com/general-disc...lumens-e-bay-purchase-mini-review-888049.html 
I am looking for a better 4 cell battery pack to give me 2 hours on full, can anyone advise as what to get here in the UK, This is to be mounted on an helmet so would prefer pack in a soft bag instead of hard box. Falling this I may have to build my own pack out of Panasonic batteries, as anyone done this and could advise on the build.


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

Mine have loose pills too.

Just used it for its first proper ride (with the faulty battery protection pcb bypassed), I like the beam for helmet use. I even mounted the battery on the helmet too to avoid the wire round the neck tied to my bag irritations . worked quite well.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

This might suit your needs:

PANNOVO B-C04 Water Resistant 4 x 18650 Battery Pack Case for Bike Lamp - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

$16.36 3.7V 3400mAh NCR18650B Protected Rechargeable Lithium Battery(Panasonic Battery Cell)-2 pack

4 cells have about 6800 mAh, if the light takes 2A on high, you get about 3 hrs runtime.



Skyraider59 said:


> I am looking for a better 4 cell battery pack to give me 2 hours on full, can anyone advise as what to get here in the UK


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

MK96 said:


> This might suit your needs:
> 
> PANNOVO B-C04 Water Resistant 4 x 18650 Battery Pack Case for Bike Lamp - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
> 
> ...


Thats the holder i have on the way. My X2 takes about 1.44A on full power at 8.44V on a bench power supply.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

MK96 said:


> This might suit your needs:
> 
> PANNOVO B-C04 Water Resistant 4 x 18650 Battery Pack Case for Bike Lamp - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
> $16.36 3.7V 3400mAh NCR18650B Protected Rechargeable Lithium Battery(Panasonic Battery Cell)-2 pack
> 4 cells have about 6800 mAh, if the light takes 2A on high, you get about 3 hrs runtime.


 I had my eyes on this holder but I understand that there is no protection circuit build in the holder, but I presume this would not be a problem if I use protected cells? Can someone confirm, also would I be able to charge it as a pack with the X2 1 amp charger or would I need to remove the batteries to charge them individually??? I have a Jetbeam I4pro charger as well, but it is easier to charge as a pack.
A negative point about the Pannovo box is the usual super slow service from DX, at best of time we are talking a month from order to delivery to the UK!
I have also read that li-ion batteries are no longer accepted by royal mail, causing some of the Chinese retailer not to send batteries anymore??
I have also found a samsung battery pack here in the UK. kind of more money that I would really want to pay, but this is an other option. As anyone used them?
Mountain Bike Batteries - mtb batteries - Portable Power Solutions & High Perfomance Sports Lights
Thanks


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## Gingerdawg (Nov 14, 2007)

I purchased a solarstorm xml-U2 off ebay. (seller william20131788 from Hong Kong - arrived in 10 days) I opened it up to check for pills, and proper assy.
What I found was interesting, I do have pills, and they are threaded in. (see the pic of the back)
The LEDs have round boards, and have XML-U2 lettered on the board, but they are the whiteish emitters, that were identified as XML2 earlier in the thread (XML-U2 are greenish?).


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## Gingerdawg (Nov 14, 2007)

Beware that william20131788 does charge shipping, so bid accordingly if you buy from him on ebay.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

... and you have got the 4th version of the driver I have seen among SS X2 lights


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Gingerdawg said:


> Beware that william20131788 does charge shipping, so bid accordingly if you buy from him on ebay.


I've browsed his items for sale: the SS X2 offered in several variants, ranging in price from $25.80 (free shipping) to $47.36 ($35.00 + $12.36 shipping). Why not to indicate exact item number you've got?


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## Gingerdawg (Nov 14, 2007)

Okie dokie.
3200 LM 2X CREE XML LED Bike Bicycle Headlight Flashlight Light X2 Solarstorm NE | eBay
I paid $6.99 + $12.36 shipping.
This one was in the "Flashlights" catagory, not bike lights catagory.


-Archie- said:


> I've browsed his items for sale: the SS X2 offered in several variants, ranging in price from $25.80 (free shipping) to $47.36 ($35.00 + $12.36 shipping). Why not to indicate exact item number you've got?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Thank you!


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Gingerdawg said:


> Okie dokie.
> 3200 LM 2X CREE XML LED Bike Bicycle Headlight Flashlight Light X2 Solarstorm NE | eBay
> I paid $6.99 + $12.36 shipping.
> This one was in the "Flashlights" catagory, not bike lights catagory.


Head only, what battery pack do you use?


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## Gingerdawg (Nov 14, 2007)

Skyraider59 said:


> Head only, what battery pack do you use?


I picked up one of the Panovo battery boxes that use 4 individual 18650 cells. I charge them independantly, not as a pack.
I use Panasonic 18650 cells.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Can you do me a very big favour and let me know what weight is the pack inc batteries is and pack dimensions. This is to be mounted on my helmet and I fear this will be too big and heavy!


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## Gingerdawg (Nov 14, 2007)

Well, the battery is a lot heavier than I would want on my helmet. My cheap digital scale has the Panovo box, 4 x 18650 cells and the battery bag weighing in at 11 1/4 oz or 320 grams.
The solarstorm SSx2 is 107 grams or 3.75 oz


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Threaded in led pills! That's very nice. Probably second only to the press fit models in terms of heat transfer. That seems to be too nice to be a clone. Maybe this is version 2.0 from the original manufacturer.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Thanks, this is exactly what I did expect , ideal as a bar battery but to heavy for a lid battery, I think I am back to building my own pack from scratch or going for mtbbatteries.co.uk samsung battery pack! Anyone of you guys used the Samsung batteries?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

some samsung cells are 4.35V so watch that and buy a proper charger for them if you get these ;-)


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## fishymamba (Oct 19, 2013)

Is the wire for the light/battery long enough that I can put the light on my helmet and put the battery in my CamelBak?


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

The ine i got from fasttech and it is long enough to put pack in jersey pocket.


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## toto408 (Nov 29, 2013)

Hey lads,
I'm a happy user of on of these (Wholesale Product Snapshot Product name is 1 Set 2013 SolarStorm X2 Bike Light Waterproof 2 CREE U2 LED 2000LM Bicycle Light + Intelligent Power Indicate + Free Shipping) on my helmet, and one of that (New Black SolarStorm X2 With 2xCree XM-L2 LED 4-Mode Bike headlight,Bicycle Light Set(4*18650 Battery pack Included) - 2LED Bike Light - Led Bike Light - Bicycle Light & Headlamp Worldwide Free Shipping!!!) on the bar.
I don't really like the rubber used to attach the lamp to the bar, so I'm looking for a better mount... Anybody tried that one? Hope Universal Handlebar Mount | Chain Reaction Cycles Could'nt find anything on that thread...

Cheers!


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

toto408 said:


> I don't really like the rubber used to attach the lamp to the bar, so I'm looking for a better mount... Anybody tried that one? Hope Universal Handlebar Mount | Chain Reaction Cycles Could'nt find anything on that thread...
> 
> Cheers!


Yeap, I use the hope handlebar mount on a bunch of different lights I've built and I would highly recommend it.


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## toto408 (Nov 29, 2013)

kwarwick said:


> Yeap, I use the hope handlebar mount on a bunch of different lights I've built and I would highly recommend it.
> 
> View attachment 850770
> View attachment 850771


Thanks 

Is it the same screw dimension, compared to the solarstorm x2?


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Hope uses a bigger bolt thread, but you can reuse the screw that comes with the X2 and it fits into hole in the bracket no problem.


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## thasingletrackmastah (Nov 15, 2005)

Just got my Fandyfire X2 from DX this week.
I waited for it quite some time (2 months).
It arrived in a big enveloppe "Per Avion", by airmail.
This week iI used it a few times for commuting, so far so good, I'm impressed.
Because of the findings in this thread I opened it this evening.
The screws on the front are drilled out / damaged, so I opened it at the back.
Soldering looks ok.
There are traces of thermal paste visible. At least someone did make some effort to keep things cool.
Not shure if this is the back of the star or the pill we're looking at...
I have to take out the leds from the front, have to find me a pair of pliers to unscrew the front srews.

Here are some pictures.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Hard to tell for sure from the photos, but looking at the 2nd one it seems like the back of an LED MCPCBs showing.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

^^ +1

it seems we are looking at the MCPCB, at least I think you have the original driver.


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## mrbubbles (Apr 9, 2007)

Based on the second photo, I don't think the leds are heatsinked.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

toto408 said:


> Hey lads,
> I'm a happy user of on of these (Wholesale Product Snapshot Product name is 1 Set 2013 SolarStorm X2 Bike Light Waterproof 2 CREE U2 LED 2000LM Bicycle Light + Intelligent Power Indicate + Free Shipping) on my helmet, and one of that (New Black SolarStorm X2 With 2xCree XM-L2 LED 4-Mode Bike headlight,Bicycle Light Set(4*18650 Battery pack Included) - 2LED Bike Light - Led Bike Light - Bicycle Light & Headlamp Worldwide Free Shipping!!!) on the bar.
> I don't really like the rubber used to attach the lamp to the bar, so I'm looking for a better mount... Anybody tried that one? Hope Universal Handlebar Mount | Chain Reaction Cycles Could'nt find anything on that thread...
> 
> Cheers!


 hI TOTO408, from your links, they come from Alixpress, how long did the shipping take to ? UK
What kind of run time do you get out of them?
Thanks


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

<<Just got my Fandyfire X2 from DX this week.
I waited for it quite some time (2 months).
It arrived in a big enveloppe "Per Avion", by airmail.>> Two months this must be a record!, I think they need to change their envelope to read (Slow Boat from China!!!) Last stuff I orded was over 2 years ago took over a 5weeks to arrive, the result is I have not orded anything from them since! And I hope I won't have to. Most of my stuff I get from china do take around 2 weeks.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Well I just finished taking my X2 clone ( Manafont version ) apart at the front just so I could see how the emitters were mounted. For the record mine has no "Solarstorm" logo or other markings. 

First I'll note is that my clone has the loose emitter boards like some of the others. There is no pill and no metal base plate for the board to rest on. For that matter there is only a small indented lip that holds the MCPCB in place. It is so small that I'm amazed there is any thermal transfer at all. No thermal paste was used to keep the board in place. Looks like I'll have to buy some thermal paste to get the boards to hold tighter to the indent lip. What a crappy set-up. The original Solarstorm X2's were built much better. At least this explains why mine seems to drop in output so quickly when used on high. Heck the lip is so small I have a hard time seeing it. That being the case I may be wrong but I don't think thermal paste is going to make a big difference.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Cat-man-do said:


> I agree. When I buy I lamp for $25 I will use it till it fails. IF..something fails on the lamp I can then disassemble and try my hand at modding OR just buy another.
> 
> Food for thought...These lamps are so inexpensive you can afford to buy an extra for back up.





Cat-man-do said:


> Even Zaang, ( who has posted only in this thread ) initially said that he had friends who owned one and that they had no problems. About Archie's friend; Any of us know him or know how much he knows about electronics and modding these kind's of lamps. Hey, whatever....Stuff happens. As I see it it's still "Business as usual". A Chinese lamp is still a "CHINESE" lamp.
> 
> No one is claiming that the SSX2's are "above average" in design or reliability. Of the thousands that are sold there are going to be people getting them that will have problems. That said these are the most inexpensive lamps available. Since these continue to be popular I wouldn't let the misfortune of a few keep me from buying one if I were in the market for a cheap lamp and only had about $40 to spend. Even if you did get a dud ( the first time ) if you roll the dice again and buy a second I think it highly unlikely you would get another bad one...just saying. You can buy a better more reliable brand name light but that will mean more money up front. You can buy two of the cheap Chinese lamps and still not spend the money you did for a single brand name lamp. Choices, choices...indeed.


So I am curious, are you following your own advise and have a couple more on order (for back-up)? 

****


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## toto408 (Nov 29, 2013)

kwarwick said:


> Hope uses a bigger bolt thread, but you can reuse the screw that comes with the X2 and it fits into hole in the bracket no problem.
> 
> View attachment 850782
> View attachment 850783


Looks great  I'll order that


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## toto408 (Nov 29, 2013)

Skyraider59 said:


> hI TOTO408, from your links, they come from Alixpress, how long did the shipping take to ? UK
> What kind of run time do you get out of them?
> Thanks


I just received 2/4 lamps from Aliexpress, lithium batteries are not allowed anymore from China... I get refund for the 2 lost lamps, but it takes 2 months or more... I received the 2 first lamps in about 2-3 weeks I think. I recommand more Lightmalls, there's a shipping option to ship batteries 
And I have about 1h15 running at high, don't know in other modes


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Cat-man-do said:


> Well I just finished taking my X2 clone ( Manafont version ) apart at the front just so I could see how the emitters were mounted. For the record mine has no "Solarstorm" logo or other markings.


Yours is the XM-L U2 version or the one with XM-L2? I am curious if this happens to XM-L or XM-L2 clones ...


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

toto408 said:


> And I have about 1h15 running at high, don't know in other modes


 Bang one, got also 75mn out of the solarstorm "ok" battery!


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

scar said:


> So I am curious, are you following your own advise and have a couple more on order (for back-up)?


I don't need back up at the moment as I have other lamps. Would I buy one again? Yes, but one of the original ( better made ) SStorms. Still, I knew mine was a no-name clone going in. I accept the lesser quality for that reason. Doesn't mean I don't wish it was better made. At least it works. How long it will last if used regularly?...any one's guess.

The nice thing about the forum is the quality feedback. Because some people are willing to poke around inside the lamps we are able to get more information, whither it be good or bad. Armed with this knowledge we can chose to buy a better product and send a message to the manufacturers of the cheap clones that if their product(s) suck it will cost THEM money ( through lost sales ).

**edit: Seven years ago I rode with halogen lamps. With those lamps with NiMH batteries... I never knew when the batteries would crap out ( usually after two years ) or a bulb would burn out. Those set-ups cost me at least twice as much as the newer Chinese clones. In retrospect, if you don't have a lot of money the clone lamps are still worth the money ( ~$40 ) as long as the lamp works and the battery gives you two hour run time.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

MK96 said:


> Yours is the XM-L U2 version or the one with XM-L2? I am curious if this happens to XM-L or XM-L2 clones ...


...XM-L ( U2 )...haven't seen the SSX2 with XM-L2 yet unless I'm missing something. So far I think the loose emitter board issue is only for certain SSX2 clones.

**edit...Solarstorm X2 does come in a XM-L2 T-6 version ( fasttech)


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Archie's friend has XM-L2 version but not from Manafont and some riders in this thread have also XM-L2 version without the pills. SO it happens to both XM-L and XM-L2 SSX2 clones.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Sorry you got the not-so-great version Cat.

Those hope mounts look awesome. The shipping to the US is almost as much as the item with the total around $20. Not a good deal.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Cat-man-do said:


> ...XM-L ( U2 )...haven't seen the SSX2 with XM-L2 yet unless I'm missing something. So far I think the loose emitter board issue is only for certain SSX2 clones.
> 
> **edit...Solarstorm X2 does come in a XM-L2 T-6 version ( fasttech)


I got the XML2 in Ebay. I might take it apart just to see what I have inside. It has been running fine for about 20 hours use ( and run on high the whole ride).
Solarstorm 2 x CREE XM L XM L2 Bicycle LED Light Bike X2 Light Only New Bulb | eBay


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Color Temperature: 7000-7500K :skep:


****


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Blueish white - cheap XM-L2 U2 (and not only) use to be just like that. But there is confusing description XM-L / XM-L2 - you can choose and pictures are with XM-L


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

varider said:


> Those hope mounts look awesome. The shipping to the US is almost as much as the item with the total around $20. Not a good deal.


Now you know how us Canucks feel, with most things shipped from the states.

There are a number of reasonably similar mounts that you should find easily available for less. For example

Planet Bike Quick Cam Handlebar Bracket <$3 (Quick Release Bracket)
Cygo‑Lite Handle Bar Mount ‑ Type A $14 (Bracket stays on bars - Light Head quick releases)


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Even popular Cateye H-24 for 25.4 and his successor for 31.8 is a nice alternative (fits MJ880 clone - just bolt on mod, but SS X2 needs new hole for that) In the states it''l be for about $2-3 from cateye.


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## dan4jeepin (Apr 9, 2007)

After reading this thread I decided to open mine up. Like many others mine has loose emitter boards, no thermal paste, and no pill. So far I've used it on a couple rides and it works well on medium setting for 2hr rides. Probably worth the $30 bucks I paid but not near the quality of the original design.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

MK96 said:


> Blueish white - cheap XM-L2 U2 (and not only) use to be just like that. But there is confusing description XM-L / XM-L2 - you can choose and pictures are with XM-L


Yeah, if it's over 7000K it's likely going to have some bluishness to the tint. Mayor, can you confirm this?.

Interesting what you see on E-bay. Some of the SSX2's you can buy around $20 USD. I have a feeling though that most of these are going to be using the loose emitter boards ( sorry I won't call them pills unless there is a bit more metal to them ).

Would be nice if someone would market an aftermarket flood lens for these babies ( like they did for the 808 clones ) so you could get a little more side spill if you feel you need it. One flood lens ( or wider optic ) with one reflector should do the trick for enhancing the use on the bars. You can buy "lightly frosted lenses" to size but I'd rather see an optic or a fluted lens like with the 808's.


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## Richrider (Feb 17, 2004)

Six weeks ago I ordered a Solarstorm from Fasttech. I received it 8 days later and was impressed with the amount of light and the whole package. It came shipped in a nice box with foam cut out for each component. I liked it so much and found that Lightmalls had the Xm-L2 version so I decided to buy a couple more. Four weeks later the lights from Lightmalls arrived. In a side by side comparison the original XM-L light was much brighter. The new XM-L2 version has a much warmer tint, but there is definitely not as much light. The build quality is suspect compared to the original as well. The metal cover on the front does not sit flat and allows light to escape out the sides rather than through the reflector. (I will try and get a picture of it later) the emitters are mounted on a pill that sits loosely inside and are held in place by the reflectors pressing against them. I will add some thermal paste as others have done and hope the thermal transfer is sufficient. The lights were shipped in a box just big enough to hold 2 light a battery and charger. There was no special packaging foam padding. These were cheap, if they last for a few rides then I guess I will be satisfied and when they fail I will lurk around here for the next great deal and give that a try.


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## neabue (Jan 5, 2011)

Here is a picture of my SSx2 XM-L2 version from Fasttech with the missing pill/loose emitter. I found some coins that fit inside the case on the lip and cut a notch out on each side to slip behind the wires.







Here is what it looks like from the back after inserting the coins. I'm waiting on some thermal compound to come in the mail to put in between the coin & emitter, and along the edges. Hopefully this cheap solution will dissipate enough heat to keep it from overheating too quickly, it's worth a shot...


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## fishymamba (Oct 19, 2013)

Got my light today! The pills had a pretty bad contact with the casing, so I put in a bit of thermal paste, but I think I should have put in some more. 

The PCB is red opposed to the black and blue that I mostly see. 
I charged up the battery and I am testing it right now.


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## thasingletrackmastah (Nov 15, 2005)

neabue said:


> Here is a picture of my SSx2 XM-L2 version from Fasttech with the missing pill/loose emitter. I found some coins that fit inside the case on the lip and cut a notch out on each side to slip behind the wires.
> View attachment 851561
> 
> Here is what it looks like from the back after inserting the coins. I'm waiting on some thermal compound to come in the mail to put in between the coin & emitter, and along the edges. Hopefully this cheap solution will dissipate enough heat to keep it from overheating too quickly, it's worth a shot...
> View attachment 851562


Neablue,

All you do is adding some extra thermal resistance.

First the surface of your coins is not flat.
this gives a consideable amount of thermal resistance between te star pcb and the coin.
Second, your coins consist of 2 pieces of metal, both with unknown thermal characteristics. Between the two bits of metal there is thermal resistance.
Thrd, you did not increase the surface where teh heat is transferred to the casing.
So all you did with your effort is place a fair amount of thermal resitance between your emitters and the outside world.

I don't think the pills are necessary.
As long as the back of the star makes good contact with the ridge, that should be enough.
Therefore the emitters should be pressed against the ridge, so maybe an extra o-ring behind the glass is a good idea. and a little thermal paste.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I think you did a good job neabue. I think it will improve the heat transfer. It just has to be good enough to not fry itself!


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

The surface is not flat - but thermal paste shall do it. Thermal characteristic of coins is mostly nickel, brass, nordic gold (89% copper, 5% aluminium, 5% zinc, and 1% tin), so that shall do it again. Overall it shall improve things, but the better the pills fit (flat surface, recess on the back side) the better will be the thermal transfer to the body of the light. Low value coins, e.g. 0.01 0.02 0.05 euro are copper plated steel.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

thasingletrackmastah said:


> Neablue,
> ...As long as the back of the star makes good contact with the ridge, that should be enough.
> Therefore the emitters should be pressed against the ridge, so maybe an extra o-ring behind the glass is a good idea. and a little thermal paste.


Using a slightly bigger O-ring to add a little more pressure was my idea as well. A little extra pressure on the board along with some extra thermal paste can't hurt...I hope. Keep in mind the reflector is pulling some heat away from the board as well.

For years now I've been using drop-in torches that also have very poor thermal paths. The key is not letting the unit get too hot to cause damage to the emitter. This means not being able to run the high mode as much as you want unfortunately.


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## uiflorin (Dec 6, 2012)

Guys, this looks ridiculous. 

Chinese lack basic understanding of things, because of their mindset and education system. The purpose of their education system is to make kids memorize information, not more. They consider essential for a person to memorize information in a brute form, as much as possible, walking encyclopedia. This somehow works for them, because their brains are hardwired to have a photographic memory, look at their writing system with the crazy 80,000 ideograms, the linguists being able to retain about 7000 of them. We, the westerners, memorize 26-32 basic signs or shapes and with these we can communicate whatever we want. What will the adults do with that raw information escapes basic logic. Understanding of how things work, the perspective, from where the things come and where they go, the broader image, this is another thing, and the rule is: someone smarter and with much more responsibility knows better, it's not your job or purpose to understand. They live in a militaristic mindset and environment, much like the ants and termites, someone else thinks for the rest, someone enlightened. This is the reason they are still on the copy routine, do not have the ability to create things starting from principles of physics, because the principles of physics are just brute information, have no meaning for them, or the meaning is not deeply understood. Imagine that thermal resistance has no meaning for them, let alone electricity. Long term reliability has no sense. It works, it lights up, then is good, things cannot work indefinitely, sometime they stop working, even after 5 minutes. Do you imagine that some engineers test these lights for hours, to see the behavior of the Cree leds in their junk cases and have a statistic of the reliability, let's say after 48 hours the things burn, ok, that is 24 recharge cycles, this means an average of say 6 to 12 weeks of use (2-4 times per week), good enough for a few bucks. They know that customers, in their greed, will accept to tradeoff bad quality for cheap and continue buying out junk. For some things it works, but for some not. Would you buy a chinese car copied approximately upon a western car, just because it's 5000 dolars? Would you trade cheap for the chances of dying if a wheel pops out at 85 miles/h from bad quality screws? No, you should not.

Imagine that the pcb design is done by girls, because of their better photographic memory. They have no idea what they do, what's the purpose of their work, they paint strips with different widths from one point to another to conduct current.

Even if some of them are smarter and do understand, they don't care, because their purpose is to sell junk for money, hard earned money. In their case is not hard earned money, is just a mean ripoff. And on top of this, they pollute the planet insanely, because again of their lack of understanding of the effects of their actions and lack of responsibility. And we contribute to this, buying into their insane game, buying their junk because we want comfort, we want to afford as much stuff as possible for the money we have.

Guys, buy quality products from companies that invest effort, knowledge and quality into your comfort.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)




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## fishymamba (Oct 19, 2013)




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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

In response to post #615....not a good idea to misjudge and malign an entire culture that is thousands of years old just because there are some people there selling a cheap consumer product that you happen not to like. I'm not Chinese but if I was I would be offended by your post. Heck, I'm not Chinese and I AM OFFENDED by your post.

If you want to buy a really nice, well made and expensive bike lamp, knock yourself out. Buy a lamp from whoever you want to. If it's your money, spend it as you chose. Not nice to tell others what they SHOULD buy and who not to buy from. It's fine to give an opinion but to categorically diss an entire culture for making a cheap buck on a cheap product goes beyond the pale.

Now as to what to buy or who to buy from; I think most people posting on this forum can make those decisions themselves just by reading ALL OF THE DIFFERENT THREADS AND OPINIONS.


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## rvanderwerf (Feb 27, 2011)

Gingerdawg said:


> I picked up one of the Panovo battery boxes that use 4 individual 18650 cells. I charge them independantly, not as a pack.
> I use Panasonic 18650 cells.


I have the same setup, working quite well for me!


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## morepower (May 14, 2012)

+1 What Cat-man-do said..... 

I bought mine on ebay.. I have not stripped it or checked it out.. I Know it works and I have tried it out running the battery down on each setting as well as running a larger battery pack down on each setting to see how long the battery last too.... I did put it in front of a fan for the high power tests but that is as far as it as gone...

CHEAP? Yes... 
Nasty?? No
Does it work? Yes
Do the batteries packs last as long as I will need? Yes. 
Do I care what the exact output of the batteries are? Nope.. See above.
Is it fit for purpose? Yes.. 
SHOULD I buy an expensive light because someone else thinks so?? No..

If it gets smashed in 1 day to 6 months time I dont really care because I could smash a cheap light just as hard as I can an expensive one if I crash. No warranty will cover dropping off of a trail and am I expecting to crash? No.. But then no one expects too..
I think trying it out for a couple of days using 2 different battery packs has shown it will be OK for now and should work at least long enough to see all of my winter night time rides out... Buy cheap buy twice?? Hell I could buy cheap and buy 10 times and still have the same performance for less than the cost of some expensive lights...


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I agree, but consider this post #615 as an attitude of one man in a world where anybody "can possibly" tell what he wants. Back to the SS X2 - I spot the lighmalls version - head only with XM-L is about $19.5 and XM-L2 about $20 - so the clones are taking over and flooding the whole market probably, also with some loose or missing emitter boards.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

post 615 lowered my IQ by reading it

srsly uiflorin, step back and look at yourself

+1 What Cat-man-do said.....


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## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

Any time someone starts whining about foreign products I am reminded of Paul's derailleurs and the made in the USA stickers on all my old Huffy's.


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## Jeepdude (Nov 22, 2007)

MK96 said:


> I agree, but consider this post #615 as an attitude of one man in a world where anybody "can possibly" tell what he wants. Back to the SS X2 - I spot the lighmalls version - head only with XM-L is about $19.5 and XM-L2 about $20 - so the clones are taking over and flooding the whole market probably, also with some loose or missing emitter boards.


I Ordered this light from Lightmalls a couple of weeks ago. The description called it the Solarstorm...have most of the issues with the loose emitter boards been with the non-branded lights (Not printed with Solarstorm)? I got the version with the XM-L2 and the battery.

I will take it apart when I get it to see what it looks like.


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## fishymamba (Oct 19, 2013)

Any of you tried this battery pack from Amazon? Amazon.com: Replacement 8.4V 6600mAh Rechargeable Battery Pack for Headlamp & Bicycle Light: Sports & Outdoors

It is a 2S3P pack so even if it is using 2000mah cells, the run time should be decent. 
The battery that came with my light is really bad, didn't even last 1 hour at the highest setting.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I use my cheep x2 over my Duo on the head. The much much more expensive Duo seems to dim while riding more than 2 hours on high. My 20 buck x2 is brighter and does not dim !! The Duo is better made and smaller but just sitting on my bench. Better is something that you use, not hoping it will make it through the ride.


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## rvanderwerf (Feb 27, 2011)

yeah someone in the battery thread recommended this and worked well for them. I'm not too trusting any of the batteries, I just bought these pannys off amazon Amazon.com: 4pcs Panasonic NCR18650B 3.6 Volt 18650 Battery 3400 mAh: Electronics and charge them individually in my i4 charger.



fishymamba said:


> Any of you tried this battery pack from Amazon? Amazon.com: Replacement 8.4V 6600mAh Rechargeable Battery Pack for Headlamp & Bicycle Light: Sports & Outdoors
> 
> It is a 2S3P pack so even if it is using 2000mah cells, the run time should be decent.
> The battery that came with my light is really bad, didn't even last 1 hour at the highest setting.


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## rvanderwerf (Feb 27, 2011)

*first ride with my 2 xml2-u2's from lightmalls*

Took my first ride with the xml2-u2 solarstorm (head only) I got off lightmalls.com (using the panovo 4 cell cases off dx.com with panny cells). Mine seems to have pills that were not loose, but one lamp I posted earlier had one side with 2 pieces of glass and a shorter reflector for some reason.








Ordered the bar adapter from Action-LED-Lights

Low single lamp








Medium single lamp








High single lamp








2 lamps on high - helmet and bar








For the money, I'm pretty happy with the results!


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Do you have XML 2 or XML U2? I don't see any on LM with the new xml2 U2



rvanderwerf said:


> Took my first ride with the xml2-u2 solarstorm (head only) I got off lightmalls.com (using the panovo 4 cell cases off dx.com with panny cells). Mine seems to have pills that were not loose, but one lamp I posted earlier had one side with 2 pieces of glass and a shorter reflector for some reason.
> 
> View attachment 852316
> 
> ...


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## rvanderwerf (Feb 27, 2011)

I got these xml2-u2's m1203 - Wholesale m1203 - Cheap m1203 Reviews Worldwide Free Shipping!!! and M1202 - Wholesale M1202 - Cheap M1202 Reviews Worldwide Free Shipping!!! they are actually on sale for usd $20 shipped (I paid 23.50). It took me almost a month to get them to Texas. I didn't bother with whatever crappy batteries come with it and got the head only. My last order through fasttech that included cells appears to never have made it and was sent back to them, so it seems its not worth the wait or multiple order attempts to get through customs for poor quality cells from china.

For helmet I ordered their cheap head strap, cut off the elastic bits and used a micro size bungee cord to attach it to me helmet Wholesale 'm0069' at Wholesale Price Worldwide Free Shipping!!! for 2.80. No shifting around issues at all, also got an extension cable Wholesale 'M0068' at Wholesale Price Worldwide Free Shipping!!!. What don't like about the extension it it just plugs in, but doesn't screw in.


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## toto408 (Nov 29, 2013)

rvanderwerf said:


> I got these xml2-u2's m1203 - Wholesale m1203 - Cheap m1203 Reviews Worldwide Free Shipping!!! and M1202 - Wholesale M1202 - Cheap M1202 Reviews Worldwide Free Shipping!!! they are actually on sale for usd $20 shipped (I paid 23.50). It took me almost a month to get them to Texas. I didn't bother with whatever crappy batteries come with it and got the head only. My last order through fasttech that included cells appears to never have made it and was sent back to them, so it seems its not worth the wait or multiple order attempts to get through customs for poor quality cells from china.


I think these are XML2-T6, and not U2! There's no U2/T6 in the description...


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## rvanderwerf (Feb 27, 2011)

toto408 said:


> I think these are XML2-T6, and not U2! There's no U2/T6 in the description...


hmm is there a way to tell the diff? I know how to tell xml from xml2 but the bins of each not sure.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

fishymamba said:


> Any of you tried this battery pack from Amazon? Amazon.com: Replacement 8.4V 6600mAh Rechargeable Battery Pack for Headlamp & Bicycle Light: Sports & Outdoors
> 
> It is a 2S3P pack so even if it is using 2000mah cells, the run time should be decent.
> The battery that came with my light is really bad, didn't even last 1 hour at the highest setting.


yeah I get 3 hr 20 min run time with the ssx2 on high with it.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

They could be XM-L2 U2 of some weird 7500k 1D tint, they are actually cheaper than XM-L2 T6 with 3C/4C tint. The only way to solve bin question is to measure them 



rvanderwerf said:


> hmm is there a way to tell the diff? I know how to tell xml from xml2 but the bins of each not sure.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

rvanderwerf said:


> hmm is there a way to tell the diff? I know how to tell xml from xml2 but the bins of each not sure.


Why would you think they are XML2 U2s? It doesn't say that anywhere in the listing.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Just thought I'd mention that when I took the front off of mine I think I ended up getting a better thermal transferal when I reassembled it. The reason I say that is because now the lamp gets hot very fast when I turn it on high. That means the heat is getting to the outer lamp head faster. I still have yet to add thermal paste but due to the holiday season and shopping rush that might just have to what a while.


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## toto408 (Nov 29, 2013)

The Hope mount is perfect 





It holds perfectly the light, the lamp is now almost centered, easy to fit... A must have!

HOPE fixation hanger VISION 1 & 2 LED - ALLTRICKS or Hope Universal Handlebar Mount | Chain Reaction Cycles

Thanks kwarwick for the advice!


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

I havent pulled mine apart yet, but I think the # that my friends and I ordered are decent ones. We have done a few 2 hour rides (mostly on low with some high) and all the battereies are doing a decent job. nobody has been left stranded yet. even the batt level lights are not out to lunch.

I am really happy with the beam pattern as a bar or head light. My diy use carlco12deg spot and a medium for the bar and they are horrid optics in my mind. the spot is so soft.

all three were bought from fast tech in one order. I will update if there is pills once I find a small enough allen key (or flat head)


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

What is all the goop on the back to the housing and what is its purpose?
Just curious.

****


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## OPC (Jun 16, 2008)

*Received my replacement light*

It's been 3 weeks since I emailed the Ebay vendor with the light that burned out after 5 minutes. I received the replacement light today and the quality, or at least the soldering seems a lot better than the old one. the circuit is less complicated too. the pills where screwed onto the heatsink body so I don't think I will have the issue of the lose pills/not dissipating heat properly. I also added a buttload of thermal grease just in case.

My original post is #533 btw


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## Gingerdawg (Nov 14, 2007)

That looks like the one I got.
Did yours have Torx head screws?


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## OPC (Jun 16, 2008)

Torx screws YES! it was a pain in the butt to remove them because I didn't have the right size, but I replaced them with phillips heads from my old light. Added the thermal grease on both sides of the pills. Now i'm gonna use this one as a helmet light.



Gingerdawg said:


> That looks like the one I got.
> Did yours have Torx head screws?


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## toto408 (Nov 29, 2013)

scar said:


> What is all the goop on the back to the housing and what is its purpose?
> Just curious.
> 
> ****


It's some blu-tack, the kind of paste used to stick posters on walls...

The first time I used the lamp during a rainy ride it went bad after 30 min (blocked in strobe mode), and when I opened the lamp 2 days after I found some water inside...
Since this little mod no more problem  Even if it's not perfectly tidy...


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## toto408 (Nov 29, 2013)

Anybody tried that to widen the light beam?

Magicshine MJ-816 Side Lighthead Lens


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

Hi

Got my SS/Fandyfire lookey likey from ebay and stripped it straight away for the thermal paste mod .
Loose pills.
Soldering seems fine (ish)

During the rebuild fighting to get the "O" rings back in place I got thermal paste on the reflector . When I came to clean it off with a soft tissue I managed to take the chrome finish off ! :-( 
Man that stuff is fragile !!!???

So where can I get replacement reflectors please ?
Or could I replace with a lens , if so what type/make/model ?

Thanks guys

Fat Biker


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## OPC (Jun 16, 2008)

I have a couple from my old/busted light, I can send them to you if you want. Pm me your address.



Fat Biker said:


> Hi
> 
> Got my SS/Fandyfire lookey likey from ebay and stripped it straight away for the thermal paste mod .
> Loose pills.
> ...


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

PM sent cheers


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

Did I read somewhere this light heads output can be boosted via a small current sensing resistor mod or am I getting light threads crossed ? ut:


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes, there used to be such thread for modding the SS X2, but the subscription to threads is rather chaotic here and I can't find it  But there are many types of drivers inside X2 - I counted about 6-7 types just from photos here ;-)

found it finally ... here you go: http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/mod-solarstorm-fandyfire-x2-875060.html


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I am thinking right now how cheaper they can go with these head only versions at Lightmalls, the XM-L is $18.45 and XM-L2 version is 18.88 and you can use the $2 or $5 off coupon (depends on how much do you spend).


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I just got my money back from Paypal, I ordered from Fasttech about 2 months ago x2 with battery so I could test there battery. Do not trust Fasttech the lied to me, I will never deal with them !! My ebay guy get's them to me in 8 days.


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## Montster (Feb 17, 2005)

OPC said:


> It's been 3 weeks since I emailed the Ebay vendor with the light that burned out after 5 minutes. I received the replacement light today and the quality, or at least the soldering seems a lot better than the old one. the circuit is less complicated too. the pills where screwed onto the heatsink body so I don't think I will have the issue of the lose pills/not dissipating heat properly. I also added a buttload of thermal grease just in case.
> 
> My original post is #533 btw
> 
> I have 3 of these. First 2 have several rides and hours on them. The most resent one I ordered lasted 10 minutes. Guess I will try asking the ebay seller if he will replace the head.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Fast Tech has the solar storm X2 with two LED options, XM-L U2 and XM-L2 T6.Based on specs of those LEDs it seems like the XML2 T6 has higher efficiency.

Any experience comparing them? I am mostly interested in light color, I prefer the yellow white to the blue white.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

CrozCountry said:


> Fast Tech has the solar storm X2 with two LED options, XM-L U2 and XM-L2 T6.Based on specs of those LEDs it seems like the XML2 T6 has higher efficiency.
> 
> Any experience comparing them? I am mostly interested in light color, I prefer the yellow white to the blue white.


Without going with a long explanation, you will likely prefer the XM-L2 T6. Most of the one's I've seen in beam photos look to be more of a neutral white.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

That explains why my 7 XM-L2 tends to be neutral white and 7 XM-L cool white.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Guys if you are having problem with the "cr.p" batteries supplied, I have tried a Fluxient battery form a UK seller and I am please with the result, I have done a small review of the battery on my X2 thread, see

http://forums.mtbr.com/general-disc...lumens-e-bay-purchase-mini-review-888049.html


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## dbostrom (Jan 9, 2014)

What a great thread; finally was inspired to register with MTBR after silently exploiting the site for information for years.

Just ordered some variant of the "Solar Storm 5000 Lumens 2x CREE XM-L U2" from here: 5000 Lumens 2X CREE XM L U2 LED Cycling Bike Bicycle Light Headlamp Headlight | eBay.

I'm looking forward to opening up the light and seeing which of the many flavors we've received.

Regarding the price of lights vs. quality/durability etc., price is no predictor or at least is poorly correlated with results. These SS lights are another stab at equipping my wife's bike with lighting sufficient for her commute (mostly Burke-Gilman trail in Seattle, completely dark in many areas). Her first lighting attempt was a PlanetBike lamp that was good as a visibility aid but not so good for seeing, cost considerably more than the SS lamps and chewed through disposable batteries like they were pie at an eating contest. Next up was a L&M Stella 300 Dual setup. The L&M equipment was the rough equivalent of the SS lamps except that they were literally 10 times as expensive, beautifully made and after promptly filling with water in the Seattle rain (from a dive light manufacturer??) have proven impossible to repair due to the highly specialized housing arrangement*. Currently she's equipped with an NR Newt 350, a really excellent little lamp but not bright enough.

One of the things that appeals to me about these SS lamps is that they appear to be easily disassembled for repairs/modifications.

Regarding "5,000 lumens" perhaps the SS lamps are made in a universe with a slightly different Cosmological Constant, shipped via wormhole to our universe?? That would explain why they don't actually put out 5,000 lumens here where we live. 

*(In fairness to L&M, they would have replaced the lamps on warranty but as the L&M cable arrangement was useless for a commuter bike I'd already modified it and thus didn't want to attempt pursuing the claim)


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

dbostrom said:


> What a great thread; finally was inspired to register with MTBR after silently exploiting the site for information for years.....
> 
> ....These SS lights are another stab at equipping my wife's bike with lighting sufficient for her commute (mostly Burke-Gilman trail in Seattle, completely dark in many areas).....
> 
> ....The L&M equipment was the rough equivalent of the SS lamps except that they were literally 10 times as expensive, beautifully made and after promptly filling with water in the Seattle rain (from a dive light manufacturer??)


Welcome to the Lights and Night riding sub forum. 

One of the SSX2 clones should make a decent commuter lamp. If using on a commuter trail it can be quite bright even on it's lowest level of light. Real important that it be aimed down when approaching on-coming traffic.

Not sure how these clones would fair against being subjected to rain on a regular basis. Add some sealant to sure things up and you should be fine.

On a side note I bought a rather nice dive torch from Manafont some years back. I never really used it all that much because it only put out about 500 lumen on high but it was a 3-mode torch ( H-M-L ) and had a separate flash menu ( three types of flash ). Would of made an excellent commuter light. Last year I got screwing around with it and decided to test how water proof it was. I sat the torch in a bowl of water planning to leave it there for maybe ten minutes. Then I promptly forgot about it. An hour later I stumbled upon it and removed it from the bowl. It was still working. After I dried it off I unscrewed the battery compartment and noted not a drop of water had gotten inside. Not bad for a $55 torch. Personally, I'd rather ride with a SSX2 but the torch is a great choice for paved trails ( not to mention the torches low mode is really low...great for not blinding anyone coming head on. ) ( * don't know if Manafont sells this torch anymore so if you want a link I'll have to search for it when I come home )


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## dbostrom (Jan 9, 2014)

Indeed not a bad idea to give candidates a soaking prior to use.

See this review

Cheapy commuting headlight review - Solarstorm X2 - first impressions - Sydney Cyclist

for a quick-and-dirty beam control approach for the SSX2 lights, per Cat-man-do's caution about possible obnoxious brightness on commuter paths. Aluminum tape turned inward on the inner lens might be a more efficient way of accomplishing the same thing, though in either case I wonder about overheating the light.


----------



## OPC (Jun 16, 2008)

*Thermal images with temperature*

At work we have a FLIR T440bx Infrared Camera, so after applying the thermal grease to the LED slugs I decided to see the heat dissipation.
The test while not to scientific was 5 minutes on high with no fan and then 5 minutes on with a fan just to see how it handled. I wish I would have tested it before I applied the thermal grease to see the difference...

Image 1 at start of test 28.3Deg C








at 1 minute 34.7deg C








Finally 5... almost 6 minutes








at 1 minute with fan on, Used a small 12V fan about 3 feet away








at 2 minutes with fan on








Maintaining at 41.4Deg C after 12 minutes of On time, 5ish with no fan and 6ish with fan on








Hope this helps anyone


----------



## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

FLIR are so cool. Hard to see from the pics but when started up for cold where did the heat started to come from? Was it where the thermal grease was applied?


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## OPC (Jun 16, 2008)

With this camera it seems that the heat was uniform, I was expecting a bigger difference in the thermal image, but it didn't happen. We have another camera with a different thermal spectrum that I can use on Monday and see if we get a better idea of the hot spots.



machine4321 said:


> FLIR are so cool. Hard to see from the pics but when started up for cold where did the heat started to come from? Was it where the thermal grease was applied?


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## dbostrom (Jan 9, 2014)

Great photos; would be fun to see a movie spanning a couple of minutes from startup.

I just read something dismaying about these lights that may require their modification for commuter use. Is it true that the battery level is displayed continuously as long as the power cable is plugged in? If so, I'll need to be adding an inline switch to my S.O.'s unit when it arrives, depending on how much juice the level indicators suck up (general philosophy in our house is that we disassemble neither cars nor bikes when we park).


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Nice photos. So there is no thermal grease between the LED boards and the case stock?


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

In march 2013, i bought Solarstorm x2 from this seller laptopartsupplier on eBay, and it is working nice since. The only thing i am thinking of is making beam a little bit wider, but how?

In december, i bought from ebay (from another seller), the Solarstorm x2 for my friend. This thing died after 1 ride. I went to local tech, he told that it is completely dead, everything is fried inside. I have beaten a replacement head out of this seller. Yesterday it worked, will see what is next.

Now i am thinking of purchasing Solarstorm x3 from the same seller that i bought mine in march.


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## OPC (Jun 16, 2008)

There's been a problem with some of these lights where the LED slug is not making very good contact with the heatsink body so they overheat, mine did the same thing, rode down the street and fried. Luckily the ebay seller sent me a new one. You can apply thermal grease to the slugs and that should help with the heating...



NazZaR said:


> In march 2013, i bought Solarstorm x2 from this seller laptopartsupplier on eBay, and it is working nice since. The only thing i am thinking of is making beam a little bit wider, but how?
> 
> In december, i bought from ebay (from another seller), the Solarstorm x2 for my friend. This thing died after 1 ride. I went to local tech, he told that it is completely dead, everything is fried inside. I have beaten a replacement head out of this seller. Yesterday it worked, will see what is next.
> 
> Now i am thinking of purchasing Solarstorm x3 from the same seller that i bought mine in march.


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

Just like you did earlier?









OPC said:


> There's been a problem with some of these lights where the LED slug is not making very good contact with the heatsink body so they overheat, mine did the same thing, rode down the street and fried. Luckily the ebay seller sent me a new one. You can apply thermal grease to the slugs and that should help with the heating...


----------



## OPC (Jun 16, 2008)

YES! to the front and back side, there isn't a lot of meat for the slugs to dissipate heat to, the thermal grease is helping.



NazZaR said:


> Just like you did earlier?
> View attachment 862094


----------



## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

Ok, thank you!


OPC said:


> YES! to the front and back side, there isn't a lot of meat for the slugs to dissipate heat to, the thermal grease is helping.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I don't know why you have all that thermal grease on the front of the star. That does nothing. The only place you really want it is on the interface between the slug and the outside housing.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

varider said:


> I don't know why you have all that thermal grease on the front of the star. That does nothing. The only place you really want it is on the interface between the slug and the outside housing.


varider gets it.
A thin coating on the interface....that's it.
As a matter of fact....a little paste goes a long way.
Too much and too thick....and it becomes an insulator.


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

Just purchased SolarStorm x3. Looking forward to testing it.








By the way, SolarStorm x4!!! :skep:
Endurolampa / Pannlampa SolarStorm X4 CREE U2, 2600 lumen


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I really like my x3, it has a very good spot in center. I think it's worth the extra cash compared to the X2.


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

dgw7000 said:


> I really like my x3, it has a very good spot in center. I think it's worth the extra cash compared to the X2.


Does it have wider beam?


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Yes it does have wider beam also, the one have is made better than all 3 of my x2.


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

That is very good . Thanks!


dgw7000 said:


> Yes it does have wider beam also, the one have is made better than all 3 of my x2.


----------



## Kawidan (Sep 13, 2010)

What seems to be the general consensus on the best place to buy a SolarStorm X2 or X3. I'm more concerned with the build quality of the light than the price.

Has anybody purchased one from Lightmalls recently?

Buy SolarStorm X2 2000-lumen Dual Head Bicycle light With 2xCree XM-L U2 LED 4 Modes(4*18650 Battery) - lightmalls led bike online Worldwide Free Shipping!!!

I'm currently using one of the original Magicshine Lights from Geomangear with the upgraded Geomangear battery. Glad to report that both the light and the battery are still running strong after 3 years of use.

I'm now looking for a handlebar/backup light and the SolarStorm X2 or X3 seems to fit the bill.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I like this seller, idem # on ebay 261299894900. Fast free shipping 7-9 days.


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## kevin267 (Mar 9, 2011)

I ordered one from lightmalls, should be here soon...


----------



## protocol_droid (Jul 7, 2004)

Can anyone confirm the pannovo 4 cell box will fit with protected panasonic batteries. I think people have run the unprotected but want to know if there are any issues with protected. Thanks guys.


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## Akira80 (Jul 4, 2011)

protocol_droid said:


> Can anyone confirm the pannovo 4 cell box will fit with protected panasonic batteries. I think people have run the unprotected but want to know if there are any issues with protected. Thanks guys.


It fits my panasinic 3400mah ones.


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## protocol_droid (Jul 7, 2004)

Thanks!


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## Ledlysen.se (Jan 15, 2014)

*SolarStorm X4 / New model of SolarStorm X2*



NazZaR said:


> By the way, SolarStorm x4!!! :skep:
> Endurolampa / Pannlampa SolarStorm X4 CREE U2, 2600 lumen


Just found this website thanks to your link 

There is a few impressive light threads on this forum from a lot of dedicated users, does anyone have any personal experiences of the X4 lamp? it has been sold on Ebay / Alibaba for a while now.

I also want to give you a tip regarding new models, there appears to be a new X2 model coming up in a few weeks / months with improved heat sinks  Its not 100% sure but im starting to receive some indications from my suppliers.

I apologies for my bad English, its not my original language.

Kindly regards
August Eriksson
Pannlampa, hjälmlampa, ficklampa & 18650 batteri - Ledlysen.se


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Ledlysen.se said:


> Just found this website thanks to your link
> 
> There is a few impressive light threads on this forum from a lot of dedicated users, does anyone have any personal experiences of the X4 lamp? it has been sold on Ebay / Alibaba for a while now.
> 
> ...


It has a bad internal heat transfer design. There was a thread about it. I would stay away from it.


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## Ledlysen.se (Jan 15, 2014)

Yes i understand, i recommend the lamp to only be used while moving (with cooling wind), is it possible this thread you refer to?

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/solarstorm-xt30-xt40-anyone-883449.html


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Yeah, that's the thread.
I think it's a waste of money. I would stick with the proven performers, solarstorm x2, duo clone, single xml light, triple xml etc.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

or even with 880 clone, Skyray 6T6, Skyray S6 and 7-up purple and grey XM-L T6. They perform all very good IMHO.


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

Got a problem with my X2. Light is stuck permanently on in high mode. Switch no longer works/cycles. Teardown has revealed no dry solders and switch is working. Anyone experienced this and fixed it? Possibly the driver board is cactus.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Sounds like the switch will need replaced !!


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

dgw7000 said:


> Yes it does have wider beam also, the one have is made better than all 3 of my x2.


Does it have different reflectors and lens? If so maybe we can fit them on the X2 to get the wider beam.

Lightmalls just cut prices to $27 (including battery and charger), what a steal. Probably because of the new design. Not that at $34 it wasn't a steal already.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Similar design on lightmalls with more cooling fins:










2xCree XM-LU2 4-Mode 4x18650 battery 2000-LM black(bike Light Only) - Bicycle Lights Lamp Cap - Bicycle Light & Headlamp Worldwide Free Shipping!!!


----------



## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

TigWorld said:


> Got a problem with my X2. Light is stuck permanently on in high mode. Switch no longer works/cycles. Teardown has revealed no dry solders and switch is working. Anyone experienced this and fixed it? Possibly the driver board is cactus.


Just because the switch clicks doesn't mean it's not the switch. If it were me I'd take the rubber boot off the switch and see if I can get some WD-40 into the switch to ( maybe ) free up the contacts. Worst case scenario if the driver is bad you have to buy another $24 light head.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

CrozCountry said:


> Similar design on lightmalls with more cooling fins:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks interesting, I'd like to see the inside of one of these. Looks like the front doesn't come off. Likely the bezels in the front come off but I bet it would be more difficult to mod. Anyway, If the boards have better contact perhaps better heat sinking. You should be able to take the rear off to have a look-see.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

If he has a multimeter he can measure the voltage across the button contacts. Just in case everything is OK with the driver board and the button is not stuck somewhere 



Cat-man-do said:


> Just because the switch clicks doesn't mean it's not the switch. If it were me I'd take the rubber boot off the switch and see if I can get some WD-40 into the switch to ( maybe ) free up the contacts. Worst case scenario if the driver is bad you have to buy another $24 light head.


----------



## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

All button switches in bike lamps are just on/off switches and they work or not. The mode arrangement takes place in the drivers chip. So if you have just one mode then it is probably the driver that is not working. If you have stuck in high mode it has probably gone in to a direct drive. That is not good for LEDs.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I think there is a little bit difference between button and switch. Switch has 2 positions on/off and button just one - press & release . Most of bike lights cycle modes using button if they have only one button/switch. But you are right it seems that driver is gone bad.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

My understanding always was, that 'switch' is general term for some kind of electrical contact controlled by external means (regardless from being momentary or triggering one), while the word 'button' refers to the some mechanical element to be actually pressed by operator's finger - that is, "human interface" to switch...


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Exactly. Button is a button. Switch is an electrical element and there are many types...on/off, 3 position, multi position, some have built in resistors for mode operation on direct drived leds...
there are forward and reverse clicky switches...there are electronic and mechanical switches... but they all have practicaly the same button.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

OK, I choose wrong terms to explain but you are following me and I'm following you


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Cat-man-do said:


> Looks interesting, I'd like to see the inside of one of these. Looks like the front doesn't come off. Likely the bezels in the front come off but I bet it would be more difficult to mod. Anyway, If the boards have better contact perhaps better heat sinking. You should be able to take the rear off to have a look-see.


It looks like there is a seam in the middle. Maybe it opens to two parts, that will make access easy.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

TigWorld said:


> Got a problem with my X2. Light is stuck permanently on in high mode. Switch no longer works/cycles. Teardown has revealed no dry solders and switch is working. Anyone experienced this and fixed it? Possibly the driver board is cactus.


I've got into same trouble after resoldering broken led wires to the driver circuit. No visible damage anywhere. Switch is working as using long press turns light into flashing mode as it should, but no way to change the other modes or turn the light off.
Can you check with long press at your side?


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

Guys, I said "switch is working". eg. when unsoldered from the pcb it works. Switch is dual pole momentary with a very simple mechanical design using a convex disc. Mechanically it should be incredibly reliable. I am also getting the 7.4v signal on the switching side, which the switch switches through to the microcontroller to change modes (but mode change and on/off does not occur).

ledoman - a long press does not switch to flashing mode.

Battery monitoring still works, ie. leds will light/turn off depending on battery voltage, including slashing lowest led when battery almost flat.

Leds do not pulse when stuck on (shining light on fast moving object like spinning bike wheel does not produce stobing effect like when in low power modes), so leds are in direct drive


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Hmm, do we have the same circuit? I've seen three so far. Mine is black T shaped, but I've also seen two different green ones with coil.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Both of you can post photos of the circuit boards, uC might be dead


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I've got driver described in this thread. 
There is no real reason uC to become dead as I've only resolder all four wires from the leds. If I could I would check capacitors with proper multimeter. Unfortunately I don't have the one to measure capacitance.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

The cheap one that could do it is about $30 at FT. Might be worth trying if the circuit is in direct drive.


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

My driver board is HX-1289A6 - seems similar to the one in the above thread.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

So you have the original X2 driver  Another idea to think about is to measure the voltage across the led1 and led2. If it is in direct drive you should read battery voltage under its load meaning that uC is probably OK and other components are fried/gone.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yup, that's the one, even gaps L1+ and L2- are the same. Well, as much as memory serves me.


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

MK96 said:


> ..measure the voltage across the led1 and led2...


I get 3V across each LED and 6V in total across both.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

And how much across V+/V- on input at the same time?


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

7.3V at V+/V-.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

So 1.3V voltage drop over the circuit to the leds. Huh, I'm not into electronics and don't have a clue. I can only guess it's not direct drive. Will measure my one at evening and report it back.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes it is not in a direct drive. It seems to me as a fried/stuck uC. I would also try to connect/disconnect the two wires/leads for a short time from the switch to simulate the switch function and to be sure the switch is 100% OK. I know you wrote it is but since you measured some voltage across the switch wires ...


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I've measured my driver. Vcc is 7.3V and voltage across leds is 6.35V. I must say I have XM-L2 so I might have leds with different Vf. AFAIK, XM-L2 has higher Vf.


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

Has anyone fabricated any helmet mount for solarstorm?
I have nothing suitable for Giro Aeon, so i just strapped flashlight to it. Little bit ugly, and part of lamp is blocked.
Today an idea has visited my head - find a 3d printer and make a custom mount for my helmet and solarstorm.

Edit: it seems that there is no 3d print services in our town


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Cant you use any of the helmet mounts that have a handlebar like round section that you can attach the light as if it was on a handlebar?


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

I want a light and low profile mount, so it will not move my helmet on a bumps. Don't want it stick out above my head . 
Also, Aeon is a pretty bad helmet for mounting any handlebar mounts. All holes is quite narrow.


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

Here is my "mount"


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Does anyone have luck charging the stock battery with a hobby charger? I set it to LiIo which terminates at 8.2V. A completely drained battery gets to 8.2V in 20 minutes, like 500mah. I use Accucel 6, 1 amp charge.

With the stock charger, who stops the charge? The charger or a board on the battery?


----------



## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

I'm charging bike light's batteries with mentioned charger for long time.

First, you'll have to put it into "LiPo" mode, not "LiIo". The latter is for early generations of cells with 4.1V limit, and also can be used for extended longevity of modern ones, to prolong service life - but at the cost of available capacity reduction.

Incredibly fast charge time of your battery probably means inferior quality of pack: low capacity, significant internal resistance or/and poor cabling...

As for included charger - normally, it's responsibility of charger to stop the charge at correct SOC, while protection PCB in battery is just a safety device designed to prevent damage/fire in case of charger's failure.


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## mtbRevolution (Aug 10, 2012)

NazZaR said:


> I have nothing suitable for Giro Aeon, so i just strapped flashlight to it. Little bit ugly, and part of lamp is blocked.
> (


The Aeon vent design is a gem for direct mounting. Just mount the Solarstorm directly on the bridge circled in red. Run a small o-ring under the bridge and up to the rear hook of the o-ring mount. For perfect beam angle, shape a pencil eraser or a block of rubber to a triangular wedge. Fit it between the front part of the vent bridge and the front hook of the o-ring mount.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

-Archie- said:


> I'm charging bike light's batteries with mentioned charger for long time.
> 
> First, you'll have to put it into "LiPo" mode, not "LiIo". The latter is for early generations of cells with 4.1V limit, and also can be used for extended longevity of modern ones, to prolong service life - but at the cost of available capacity reduction.
> 
> ...


Thats a lot. Do you know if something is balancing the cells? An internal PCB can do that, but I got a sense so far that this is not a great pack, so assume it is simply unbalanced.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Correct, there's no balancing functionality in such packs. But if you need it, you can easily add balance leads yourself.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Tried LiPo program.
1100mah went in. Isn't it about a third of the actual capacity? Rest Voltage is 5.8V after charge. Now its on the original charger. I guess I will have to do a discharge test to see the capacity.

Maybe the pack has huge internal resistance.


----------



## NumbNutter (Jan 25, 2014)

I wonder if I should get a SolarStorm X3, I got a X2 already btw.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

CrozCountry said:


> Tried LiPo program.
> 1100mah went in. Isn't it about a third of the actual capacity? Rest Voltage is 5.8V after charge. Now its on the original charger. I guess I will have to do a discharge test to see the capacity.
> 
> Maybe the pack has huge internal resistance.


Your cell could be about that capacity even they are balanced what I suppose they aren't. Time to buy a proper cell pack.


----------



## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

*Some tests and observations*

As most people on the thread already noted, good little light, weak battery. If I get more it will be light head alone and some quality battery separatelly.
The light has a round bright narrow spot in the middle. Not smooth transition like other lights. Gets hot in the stand, not hot when moving.

Run time test with original battery on medium:

44m: Two power LEDs
1:30: One power LED (6.87V)
1:45: Power LED flashes (5.6V)
1:55: Shut down (5.77V)
So you get 1:45 run time on medium. High makes the times significantly shorter and is probably useless for me.

Battery capacity:
Charge 1140mAh
Discharge: 1130mAh

This is abysmal capacity for two 18650 in parallel (2P). It means that each cell is less than 600mAh, less than a Chinese no name 14500 cell, which is half the size. Two quality Panasonic cells will give you three times more capacity and run time than those four. Four Panasonics will give you 6 times. Then high power is probably an option. I was expecting around 1500-2000mAh, not 1130.

But at this price, I got a charger, which surprisingly works very well.


----------



## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Wow, my worst cells were about 700mAh. Anyway one should get a light head for $18 and a charger from some choices here:

Hobbyking DC-4S Balance Charger & Cell Checker 30w 2s~4s

IMAX B6 Charger/Discharger 1-6 Cells (COPY)

iMAX C-403 Super Simple Balance Charger (Genuine)

HobbyKing ECO6 50W 5A Balancer/Charger w/ accessories

Then we are on a max budget like $37 and some battery from Mr. Lee or Pannovo case and protected brand name cells which add another ~$30-40. We end up with a good balance charger, let's say acceptable light head and a 6 times more run time on high. It is about twice the amount of the original SS X2 set but more advantages win in this case.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

Am I smoking mountains of crack, or is it really $14 on fleabay right now... head only?

Dang... I already have a MS battery and charger... and my NR light is acting up, randomly cutting out (although the battery cells are good). Mega tempted... even though I know this is far from perfect.

CREE XM L 2XU2 LED 5000 Lumens 3 Modes Bicycle Bike Headlight Lamp Light Red | eBay

BTW, I have some good quality Panasonic cells, and a charge regulator PCB coming soon. How bad an idea is it to homebrew a 2x18650 battery to drive this thing? I like the idea of a small light battery.

Is that too much current for a 2 cell battery? Just saying, I would mostly run it on medium or low, although some DH and techy descent runs I would crank it up to high for 3-5 minutes.


----------



## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Did anyone try tir optics with the X2 to produce a smoother beam without the bright hotspot in the middle?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

No but with 880 clone in another thread. Works almost the same with SS X2.


----------



## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

pimpbot said:


> ...Is that too much current for a 2 cell battery? Just saying, I would mostly run it on medium or low, although some DH and techy descent runs I would crank it up to high for 3-5 minutes.


Shouldn't be with good cells. I use a 2S pack with Panasonic 3400mAh cells (unprotected) and a 2S battery holder with protection built in.


----------



## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

Guys just received my SolarStorm X3 from ebay, everything works fine with the light except that one of the battery LED's (the green ones on the back) stays always on and on a kind of low mode (as it if was broke or something)
Here are some pics that explain better the situation:
https://i.imgur.com/sBaq9rW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/j8z9j8L.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jcVkVbA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1P6l3p4.jpg

So is the LED that shows when the battery is at full charge, that LED is always on on a very low light even when the battery starts to discharge the other two LED work fine.

My question is, could there be a way to fix this or this might just be a defective light?
Also if the LED is always on even in that low light way is the battery going to suffer extra drain?

Thank you, any help is apprecited.

Pd: sorry for may english


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

Seance765 said:


> Guys just received my SolarStorm X3 from ebay, everything works fine with the light except that one of the battery LED's (the green ones on the back) stays always on and on a kind of low mode (as it if was broke or something)
> Here are some pics that explain better the situation:
> https://i.imgur.com/sBaq9rW.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/j8z9j8L.jpg
> ...


I've read somewhere that these leds have a good drain. I am always disconnecting the head from batteries when not riding.


----------



## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

I got mine from FastTech, and based on Kir's reviews and photos,
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/user-review-solarstorm-x2-original-version-888476.html

I think mine is a clone.


----------



## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

CrozCountry said:


> I got mine from FastTech, and based on Kir's reviews and photos,
> http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/user-review-solarstorm-x2-original-version-888476.html
> 
> I think mine is a clone.


So fasttech and lightmalls are not official retealiers?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Seance765 said:


> So fasttech and lightmalls are not official retealiers?


I don't know, but it doesn't look the same wiring and the battery is junk, even compared with other Chinese no-name batts.


----------



## sbarnhart (Jun 8, 2011)

I got mine yesterday. I ordered the red one from phcmall on ebay. It was around $30. I havent really got a feel on the battery yet.The first charge went down fast , but it was the first charge. I dont have anything to measure the actual output. It is brighter than all three of my Niteriders(mininewt and trail rat(2)). I hope this battery works out, because the light is nice.


----------



## dan4jeepin (Apr 9, 2007)

CrozCountry said:


> I got mine from FastTech, and based on Kir's reviews and photos,
> http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/user-review-solarstorm-x2-original-version-888476.html
> 
> I think mine is a clone.


I wouldn't say it's a clone just the latest version. I don't know of any place that you can buy them and be guaranteed the original version which was a better quality.


----------



## toto408 (Nov 29, 2013)

Has anybody tried this battery case? PANNOVO B-C04 Water Resistant 4 x 18650 Battery Pack Case for Bike Lamp - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

The 2 battery pack I bought at Lightmalls are terrible... I think one has a life of ~ 20min at max intensity!

I would like to buy one good battery pack, I have already a decent one that came with my aliexpress X2, and I'll keep the two lightmalls one just in case...

PS: I ride with 2 X2, one on the bar with the Hope mount + one on the helmet with a gopro mount ( PANNOVO G-102 Sports Camera Connection 1/4" Connecter Accessory for GOPRO Hero 2/3 Camera - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme ), it's perfect  I prefer to ride after the dark now


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## dan4jeepin (Apr 9, 2007)

I have the Pannovo case with Panasonic NCR18650B protected batteries. They are a super tight fit but work well. I've ridden about 2hr with my X2 on high and the battery indicators aren't on the last level yet. I charge the batteries separately most of the time in a Nitecore i4 charger but if I'm in a hurry I'll just plug it into the stock charger that came with the lights.


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## protocol_droid (Jul 7, 2004)

dan4jeepin said:


> I have the Pannovo case with Panasonic NCR18650B protected batteries. They are a super tight fit but work well. I've ridden about 2hr with my X2 on high and the battery indicators aren't on the last level yet. I charge the batteries separately most of the time in a Nitecore i4 charger but if I'm in a hurry I'll just plug it into the stock charger that came with the lights.


Do you have problems pulling the cells out due to the increased diameter?


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## dan4jeepin (Apr 9, 2007)

Diameter is no problem at all and the batteries come right out. It's more the length because the protected batteries are so long. It's no big deal but you do have to put a good amount of force on the top to get it screwed down.


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## protocol_droid (Jul 7, 2004)

dan4jeepin said:


> Diameter is no problem at all and the batteries come right out. It's more the length because the protected batteries are so long. It's no big deal but you do have to put a good amount of force on the top to get it screwed down.


Thanks for the comment on this.


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

My SolarStorm x3 arrived today. And guess what? Left led is dead. And top indicator led is dead too, just like some people here experienced above.


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## zaang (Oct 17, 2013)

Contact seller


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

zaang said:


> Contact seller


already did. 
I've got dead SolarStorm x2 head laying around, friend of my, skilled electrician, willing to swap LEDs from SSx2 to SSx3.
But still, i am waiting that the seller will send a replacement.


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## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

NazZaR said:


> My SolarStorm x3 arrived today. And guess what? Left led is dead. And top indicator led is dead too, just like some people here experienced above.
> 
> View attachment 868126
> 
> ...


Sadly for us, seems that is a clone we own. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

Seance765 said:


> Sadly for us, seems that is a clone we own.


That is a bit frustrating, because i bought it from the same seller i bought my SSx2 before, and it works flawelessly and holds charge good.


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## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

NazZaR said:


> That is a bit frustrating, because i bought it from the same seller i bought my SSx2 before, and it works flawelessly and holds charge good.


My SSx3 actually works fine, just compared it with some pics and ir turned out to be a clone.

The easiest way to spot it is the screws on the back and front.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## toto408 (Nov 29, 2013)

dan4jeepin said:


> I have the Pannovo case with Panasonic NCR18650B protected batteries. They are a super tight fit but work well. I've ridden about 2hr with my X2 on high and the battery indicators aren't on the last level yet. I charge the batteries separately most of the time in a Nitecore i4 charger but if I'm in a hurry I'll just plug it into the stock charger that came with the lights.


Great thanks for this answer! Exactly what I wanna do  I'll go for it so


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Seance765 said:


> My SSx3 actually works fine, just compared it with some pics and ir turned out to be a clone.
> 
> The easiest way to spot it is the screws on the back and front.


How can you tell by the screws? Mine has something I can't really identify. It looks like Allen, but its so small even the 1.5mm Allen does not get into it. Not sure its Allen, may be something else like torqx or robertson.


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## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

CrozCountry said:


> How can you tell by the screws? Mine has something I can't really identify. It looks like Allen, but its so small even the 1.5mm Allen does not get into it. Not sure its Allen, may be something else like torqx or robertson.


Exactly those are the ones used by the genuine SS, clone use phillips screws on back and front. Also back plate of the genuine have small slots for the screws on the clone there are just holes.

Pd: sorry of I can't make myself clear I do my best with english.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Seance765 said:


> Exactly those are the ones used by the genuine SS, clone use phillips screws on back and front. Also back plate of the genuine have small slots for the screws on the clone there are just holes.
> 
> Pd: sorry of I can't make myself clear I do my best with english


Thanks, perfectly clear. So how do I open it? What are those screws? Nothing I have fits in those screws and I have a huge toolbox. Is it 1mm Allen?


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## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

CrozCountry said:


> Thanks, perfectly clear. So how do I open it? What are those screws? Nothing I have fits in those screws and I have a huge toolbox. Is it 1mm Allen?


Can't help you there, don't know either.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

Seance765 said:


> Exactly those are the ones used by the genuine SS, clone use phillips screws on back and front. Also back plate of the genuine have small slots for the screws on the clone there are just holes.
> 
> Pd: sorry of I can't make myself clear I do my best with english.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That is interesting. 
My SSx2 has allen screws on front and rear. Rear ones is put in the slots. Also, front and rear plate has a glossy surface, and every other SSx2 that i have seen have a matte surface.

My SSx3 has Philips screws and matte plates








PS: seller responded, they are willng to refund half of price, or re-send flashlight head. Opted for replacement.


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

NazZaR said:


> I've got dead SolarStorm x2 head laying around, friend of my, skilled electrician, willing to swap LEDs from SSx2 to SSx3.


I guess, i am lucky - my friend said that led was not soldered well, so he did it as it should be done. But it was tough, he said .
So, i will have two SSx3 heads when the replacement will arrive . Win.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

At least you have a backup head if one goes dead


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

CrozCountry said:


> How can you tell by the screws? Mine has something I can't really identify. It looks like Allen, but its so small even the 1.5mm Allen does not get into it. Not sure its Allen, may be something else like torqx or robertson.


That's interesting! I've never seen Robertson in micro-sized screws, while Torx and Allen are common in such applications. The only case of non-standard head I'm aware of, is the iPhone's pentalobe screws; you may try that screwdriver...


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

iPhone Pentalobe screw is too small for that.


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## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Where are those shots from?


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Great comparison Seance765. Did you get these pictures from the manufacturer, or is something that put together? 

I had go back 10 pages to find the pictures that I took, but if Seance765 pictures are right, then lightmalls sent me a light with the original driver. I bought the lighthead only option for around $24.


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## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

varider said:


> Great comparison Seance765. Did you get these pictures from the manufacturer, or is something that put together?
> 
> I had go back 10 pages to find the pictures that I took, but if Seance765 pictures are right, then lightmalls sent me a light with the original driver. I bought the lighthead only option for around $24.


Found them, didn't make them myself.

It seems lightmall's are legit.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

SS X2 shots are the ones made by me and were posted in this thread, that is why I am asking. LM is legit till the 1st batch sells out  That would be common practice among DX,LM,FT,BG,WB,KD etc ... place here any budget seller you like.



MK96 said:


> Where are those shots from?


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## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

MK96 said:


> SS X2 shots are the ones made by me and were posted in this thread, that is why I am asking. LM is legit till the 1st batch sells out  That would be common practice among DX,LM,FT,BG,WB,KD etc ... place here any budget seller you like.


Which are BG, WB, KD?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Banggood, Wallbuys, Kaidomain.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

MK96 said:


> SS X2 shots are the ones made by me and were posted in this thread, that is why I am asking. LM is legit till the 1st batch sells out  That would be common practice among DX,LM,FT,BG,WB,KD etc ... place here any budget seller you like.


Holy cow, they used the pictures that I took as well. That kind of gives me the creeps for some reason. Remind me to tag my pictures next time.

Is this your picture on this ebay listing?
SolarStorm X3 3 CREE U2 LED Bicycle Bike Light 6600LM Headlight Flashlight Red | eBay


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Bingo! Yes, the red SS X2 shots are mine. Big brother watches us :-D I'll tag them next time also.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

NazZaR said:


> iPhone Pentalobe screw is too small for that.


I've meant the head type, not exact size used in iPhone. In my toolbox, pentalobe bits are sized 0.8, 1.2, 1.5 and 2.0 - and the latter looks significantly larger than Allen 1.5 reported to not fit into screw in question...


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Now I really want to open mine 

So what screws did you guys have (that are not philips)? Allen? Torqx?

I said robertson just because I cant really see something that small, so when you cant see, anything is possible


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

In one example I've seen myself (bought from FT), ordinary Allen screws were used. Can't recall exact size, though. Haven't heard about Torx used in these lights, while cheap clones reportedly use Philips.

BTW, if your 1.5 hex doesn't fit, you may try smaller number. And to determine head's type, the magnifying glass may be useful...


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## Gingerdawg (Nov 14, 2007)

Mine had torx, some small size like T6


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

Opened my SSx3, it has black circuit board, very well made and soldered.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

NazZaR said:


> Opened my SSx3, it has black circuit board, very well made and soldered.


I just had the SS X3 recommended to me. What can you tell me about it? Beam pattern nice and floody? How's the thermal path from the LEDs? Are they on press-fit pills, the body of the light, or hanging in thin air? Any pics of the insides would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Garry


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> I just had the SS X3 recommended to me. What can you tell me about it? Beam pattern nice and floody? How's the thermal path from the LEDs? Are they on press-fit pills, the body of the light, or hanging in thin air? Any pics of the insides would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Thanks,
> Garry


Haven't had a chance to test it yet, just got it from my friend electrician yesterday. Will post a little review soon


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## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

dan4jeepin said:


> Diameter is no problem at all and the batteries come right out. It's more the length because the protected batteries are so long. It's no big deal but you do have to put a good amount of force on the top to get it screwed down.


So is it better to use flat-top batteries with the case?, or do they have to be regular?
I mean, will the case work with flat-top batteries?

Also does anyone know tips to identify fake panasonic ncr18650b batteries?

Thank you.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Any version of 18650 cells will work. There are springs inside to compensate the lenght and buttons on the other side to make good contact.


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

My SSx3 circuit board.








My SSx2 circuit board.








Light spots, SSx3 is the upper one. Sorry for poor photos, don't know how to do better.















Regarding bolts on SSx2 - I used Nokia/SonyEricsson T-5 torx screwdriver.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

So after seeing these shots and reading post #762 we can conclude it should be a clone  One will never know. Thanks for the beamshots - X3 has brighter spot definitely good for mtbing. It has a boost driver but the wires to the leds are little thin.


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

MK96 said:


> So after seeing these shots and reading post #762 we can conclude it should be a clone  One will never know. Thanks for the beamshots - X3 has brighter spot definitely good for mtbing. It has a boost driver but the wires to the leds are little thin.


But both boards have much more components than a bad clones. It's soldering quality is also quite good.
I guess that my flashlights is of some intermediate between originals and bad clones.

Regarding beam spots - SSx3 is wider, and is a little bit warmer.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes, mine are clones either and do work perfect  Soldering seems to be OK, there aren't big issues with that usually. Go ahead and use it if it works! It is really cheapo head.


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

NazZaR said:


> Here is my "mount"


I have modified original handlebar mount with wire-cutters and small rasp, and installed it on my Giro Aeon. So far it sits very tight and does not move at all. Will test it this evening.


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

Though it was very hard to stretch rubber ring on mount. Don't know how I will do that everyday.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

NazZaR said:


> I have modified original handlebar mount with wire-cutters and small rasp, and installed it on my Giro Aeon.


It now looks nearly the same as an eagle on Sheldon Brown's helmet!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks NazZaR for those pics! So it appears the SS3 has decent thermal path from the LED's; seems to have something solid behind the emitters. Are they press fit pills or is it part of the body, or a aluminum plate? Any chance of pulling the front apart and showing us what it looks like from the front side? 

How is it at handling heat just sitting still? Have you tried checking how hot the body gets while on high? Does it get too hot too quick? Or is there enough mass that it takes quite awhile to get hot? 

And where did you purchase yours from? Link? 

EDIT - I'm seeing some of these X3's with phillips head screws and some with the Torx. Are the Phillips head a sign of a clone? NazZaR, did you replace your Torx with Phillips heads?

Thanks,
Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Uh oh! Looks like the SS X3 may be getting "Solar-Stormified"! Better get the originals from the 1st batch while you can! Just spotted this one over at DX.

-Garry


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> Uh oh! Looks like the SS X3 may be getting "Solar-Stormified"! Better get the originals from the 1st batch while you can! Just spotted this one over at DX.
> 
> -Garry


This one has more cooling fins (on the top) and nicer mount. So there is a reason to get it, until solar storm clones its own clones and add those features 

And I am sure the battery has more than 1100mAh that I got, I just can't imagine 18650 with less than 600mAh


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> Thanks NazZaR for those pics! So it appears the SS3 has decent thermal path from the LED's; seems to have something solid behind the emitters. Are they press fit pills or is it part of the body, or a aluminum plate? Any chance of pulling the front apart and showing us what it looks like from the front side?
> 
> How is it at handling heat just sitting still? Have you tried checking how hot the body gets while on high? Does it get too hot too quick? Or is there enough mass that it takes quite awhile to get hot?
> 
> ...











It is on a single plate. I added some thermal compound on it's edges.

Haven't tried to run it sitting still, don't see a point in that - i use this flashlight only during a rides. If it overheats during such a test and dies, it will be a shame. During a ride, it is just warm, not hot, so i guess, there is enough cooling provided if you are moving.
I know that this winter, during a standing photoshoot, my SSx2, that was turned on, produced some steam when snow melted on it.

My SSx2 came from seller with torx screws, and SSx3 - with Philips, i haven't made any changes.

I bought both my SolarStorms from seller Laptopartsupplier on ebay.
Solarstorm x3 3 Modes 2500LUMEN 3XCREE U2 XM L LED Bicycle Bike Headlight Lamp | eBay
SSx2 runs already for half a year without problems.
SSx3 was with me for only one ride to this point.


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## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

NazZaR said:


> View attachment 869811
> 
> 
> It is on a single plate. I added some thermal compound on it's edges.
> ...


Yep, same as my X3. Actually bought it from the same seller. Please avoid it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

I think, it doesn't matter this days, because it is almost impossible to find true original SolarStorm flashlight.


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## tranyo (Feb 15, 2014)

Hi guys,
We made some photo with x2 and other bike lamps for test...

(other info in the exif)

https://picasaweb.google.com/102105741142752331854/ScrapbookPhotos?authuser=0&feat=directlink#


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks for more pics and info NazZaR. (Somehow I wasn't geting thread notification updates on this thread.)

Anyway, I received my SolarStorm X3 already! Ordered Feb 18th, delivered today Feb 26th by ePacket delivery method. First impressions - nice, very nice. Keep in mind this is my first dedicated bike light, but I am used to buying Chinese budget lights from numerous vendors. I also don't have a power source yet (still waiting on DX to ship my Pannovo case). It does have Phillips head screws (none of the heads stripped or marred by the way) AND it has XM-L2's (like in the Ebay photo) even though the listing says XM-L U2's.

Bought from seller Jingle-Shop. These SS X3's (head only) seem to go up for auction every week (seem to end on Mondays) - many go without bidders. The SS X2 B.I.N. for $16.99 is here. It's "head only" and shows XM-L2's in the photos, though the phillips head screws have me suspicious about being "genuine" (though the X3 has phillips heads too). Seller "marked as shipped" and provided me a tracking numbers within hours of ordering too.

I am used to doing flashlight reviews (example here) and will try to do a similar one when I get time (no guarantees though). I will start a new dedicated "SolarStorm X3" thread when I do so (and perhaps post a link back here).

-Garry


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## shrigg (Oct 4, 2006)

*x2 Charger*

I have misplaced the charger for my Fasttech Solarstorm x2. Can someone with an x2 light please post a closeup pic of their charger and/or a description of what is written on it, i.e.: voltage etc? Thanks!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

FastTech's site has closeups up the chargers showing specs.

-Garry


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## shrigg (Oct 4, 2006)

There we go... Thanks!!



garrybunk said:


> FastTech's site has closeups up the chargers showing specs.
> 
> -Garry


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## WHEELIE4DAYS (Mar 3, 2014)

*Which ebay seller has the threaded pill light?*

Hello! I have been looking everywhere for the SolarStorm x2 version that has the THREADED PILL like yours. Could you please tell me: Which ebay seller you bought yours from? AND the DATE that you bought it?
Your help will be GREATLY appreciated!!
Thank you.



OPC said:


> It's been 3 weeks since I emailed the Ebay vendor with the light that burned out after 5 minutes. I received the replacement light today and the quality, or at least the soldering seems a lot better than the old one. the circuit is less complicated too. the pills where screwed onto the heatsink body so I don't think I will have the issue of the lose pills/not dissipating heat properly. I also added a buttload of thermal grease just in case.
> 
> My original post is #533 btw
> 
> ...


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

WHEELIE4DAYS said:


> Hello! I have been looking everywhere for the SolarStorm x2 version that has the THREADED PILL like yours. Could you please tell me: Which ebay seller you bought yours from? AND the DATE that you bought it?


Such information is not 100%-reliable: the internals of Chinese lights can vary regardless from place you're ordering it from. As an example, please see the pictures of two [supposedly identical] lights from the same eBay seller:
http://forum.biketime.ee/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6393

The article is not in English, but photos are self-explanatory, I believe...


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

> Such information is not 100%-reliable: the internals of Chinese lights can vary regardless from place you're ordering it from.


+1

After 4 months of building adapters for the various Chinese lights to use the GoPro mount system, I have come to the conclusion that they build with whatever parts they have available at the time. The dimensions for cable size and type and the locations of where the mounting screw and cable enter the housing seem to be very freely changed. I have also repaired two dead MS lights that were the same model. Externally they were the same but they had different driver boards inside.


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## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

Vancbiker said:


> +1
> 
> After 4 months of building adapters for the various Chinese lights to use the GoPro mount system, I have come to the conclusion that they build with whatever parts they have available at the time. The dimensions for cable size and type and the locations of where the mounting screw and cable enter the housing seem to be very freely changed. I have also repaired two dead MS lights that were the same model. Externally they were the same but they had different driver boards inside.


Manufacturers just not build with "whatever part is available", they need yo ensure the quality of their product. To do that the minimum requirement is to standardize provider parts, otherwise the design team simply lost it time.

There is still exclusions, for example if the manufacturer upgrades the design, for example a version 2 of the board etc. But those changes are widely made public by the manufacturer.

Maybe that is the reason of your two different MJ lights, or most likely, one was a knock-off.

Remember the first principle of counterfeit is to make it as close as the original as possible.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Seance765 said:


> Manufacturers just not build with "whatever part is available", they need yo ensure the quality of their product. To do that the minimum requirement is to standardize provider parts, otherwise the design team simply lost it time.


Um..Yeah...

"ensure the quality of the product" ROFL!!! Seriously? You know we're talking about cheap Chinese lights here?

I have made over 100 adapters now. The majority I have added the holes and cable grooves to, to suit the various Chinese lights. At first I tried to catalog the dimensions I was given so I could build based on someone giving me a manufacturer and model number. I pretty quickly found that there was no standardization in the lights that have the mount screw and cable on the bottom of the light. Sorry, I'm wrong, the mounting screw is always M4.


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## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

Vancbiker said:


> Um..Yeah...
> 
> "ensure the quality of the product" ROFL!!! Seriously? You know we're talking about cheap Chinese lights here?
> 
> I have made over 100 adapters now. The majority I have added the holes and cable grooves to, to suit the various Chinese lights. At first I tried to catalog the dimensions I was given so I could build based on someone giving me a manufacturer and model number. I pretty quickly found that there was no standardization in the lights that have the mount screw and cable on the bottom of the light. Sorry, I'm wrong, the mounting screw is always M4.


When you check the official SolarStorm shop they don't seem so "chinese cheap"

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Seance765 said:


> Manufacturers just not build with "whatever part is available", they need yo ensure the quality of their product. To do that the minimum requirement is to standardize provider parts,


No. Manufacturers in noname world just try to make the stuffs as cheap in production as possible, to save every cent - as long as they're still able to sell that. Being in electronics business for many years, I see clear examples of that trend everywhere.

What's worse - many reputable (formerly) brands are moving in the same direction, although at least impressive speed... :bluefrown:


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Seance765 said:


> When you check the official SolarStorm shop they don't seem so "chinese cheap"
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When it comes to the mass produced Chinese ( clone ) bike lights both "design" and "quality" are going to vary from moment to moment. That said it makes a big difference on "WHERE" you are buying the stuff from. If you buy from a vendor who happily is willing to replace the product if there is a problem than that is the way to go. In my opinion it is not always the product that it the big question mark but the vendor who sells you the lamp.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> In my opinion it is not always the product that it the big question mark but the vendor who sells you the lamp.


Sure, both of them are important. BTW, in my example on previous page, the second light is actually a replacement sent by seller after short discussion with buyer because of non-functional battery status indicator on first one. :thumbsup: And another example (the unpleasant one), when webshop refused to do anything with SS2 with thermal sink absent, also can be found in this tread...


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## WHEELIE4DAYS (Mar 3, 2014)

Learn on your own


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

WHEELIE4DAYS said:


> Hope this info helps someone!


Helps a lot. It says from Hong Kong, do they actually ship from the US?

*What about the battery?* This seems to be a recurring problem with clones. How much run time do you get on high?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

WHEELIE4DAYS said:


> ....Most of the other sellers on ebay who have answered my questions have really cheap versions of these light with the XM-L U2 20mm star base used as the heatsink! lol.
> The better version use the 16mm emitters thermally glued to aluminum disc heatsinks.
> Hope this info helps someone!


Unlike you most of us aren't going to e-mail various ebay sellers trying to find a particular internal design. Come on, the guy you quoted claims the X2 he sells is 3200 lumen.  :nono: Some people will tell you anything if they think it will get them a sell. The hell with the heat sink, if I buy one am I getting a 3200 lumen lamp? I think not. If you can't trust the ad you can't trust the seller.

Look, I'm not busting your chops. You can buy from the guy and maybe get something that works. Just don't let the guy tell you that the warm liquid going down your leg is just a day old lemon aid he accidentally spilled on you.


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## WHEELIE4DAYS (Mar 3, 2014)

This is supposed to be a "community"....... you must be that grumpy old man who lives down the street.
Stop whining. As the saying goes, "if you having nothing nice to say, just say nothing at all!"


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

WHEELIE4DAYS said:


> He informed me that all of the x2 solarstorms he had with the threaded pills are gone and that his supplier "upgraded" the design on his new batch.
> The new light have the "floating" pills (held in place from the pressure of the bezel/reflector assembly), and the nice improvement is the circuit board.


Floating pills are NOT an upgrade. Threaded or press fit pills have a much better thermal path than a pill held in place by pressure from the screw holding the front bits on. Maybe with some thermal paste it would be OK, but calling it an "upgrade" is a little rich.

If the new circuit board acts as described, that may well be an upgrade from the seller's previous version.

With 3 posts to your name, you may not have been around here much. Cat's reputation on MTBR is stellar. He doesn't savagely trash people's posts. His opinions and observations are usually right on the money. His understanding of build quality probably far exceeds yours.

He was just pointing out that Ebay sellers can be a little sketchy. We've seen many posts from people who buy two lights from the same seller. When disassembled, they have totally different guts. Your guy may be an exception, but many Ebay sellers don't stand behind their products.


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

WHEELIE4DAYS said:


> Learn on your own





WHEELIE4DAYS said:


> This is supposed to be a "community"....... you must be that grumpy old man who lives down the street.
> Stop whining. As the saying goes, "if you having nothing nice to say, just say nothing at all!"


Errrr yeah thanks I'll gladly "learn on my own" from the other members of this "community"

Way to make friends and create a first impression dude .

Carry on . Nothing to see here :nono:

Fat Biker


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

Heh... I got one of the $17 Solarstorm X2 "5000 Lumens" (ironic quotes added by me) heads from fleabay next week. I figure I'll use it on my work bicycle if it isn't that great on the trail. You all got my curiosity up about this... to see which version I got. 

I already have a decent battery and charger. 

Yeah, for that price, I think it's hard to lose... as long as it works. Worst case, I bought a case to put my own parts in.


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## ironbrewer (Oct 17, 2012)

WHEELIE4DAYS said:


> This is supposed to be a "community"....... you must be that grumpy old man who lives down the street.
> Stop whining. As the saying goes, "if you having nothing nice to say, just say nothing at all!"


Cat is trying to help you. If you want to believe the guy on Ebay be my guest, but Cat is very knowledgeable about lights.


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## WHEELIE4DAYS (Mar 3, 2014)

Why are you telling me? I posted info on this site and then get jumped on by cat and his bf Ian_c! Wtf? 
Nice way to greet new users! Tell them your thoughts dude.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

No, I think they appreciate your effort and time. You did something none of us ever thought of. On the other hand the habit of ebayers selling cheap lights is likely as Cat described. They sell you perhaps a good one for the first time, but you never know what is going to happen after by next deal. Once I got an XM-L2 light from LM (not ebay seller) and the next light came with just an XM-L leds (it was described as XM-L so nothing you can complain about). Most users here are trying to point this out for you maybe not the most polite way. Buying a cheapo light is a lottery every time and doesn't depend on an ebay seller but the "factory" that produces these light for as cheap as they can.


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## WHEELIE4DAYS (Mar 3, 2014)

...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

WHEELIE4DAYS said:


> Finally, someone who knows how to respond tactfully and with respect. Thank you.
> I did not want to ramble on and on in my first post so I left out several details. To clarify, I am very aware of how chinese sellers are, frankly I find them very nice people. There are communication problems but in the end the chinese sellers usually stand behind their products much better than American sellers. I hate to write that but it is true. I have been an active buyer and seller on ebay for over 10 years and I have lots of experience with sellers from the U.S. and from China.
> The chinese DO make some junk but if you know how to hunt and find, they have some excellent quality parts for great prices. It IS the "luck of the draw" if you just buy from them without any communication, verification or whatever, so to avoid that problem, I only buy from the Chinese sellers who respond to me clearly and answer all my questions. If they have what I am looking for in hand and send me detailed photos of that item AND agree to send me that exact item, then I do business with them.
> That was a pain at first but I have found a handful of very honest chinese seller to deal with because I always get exactly what I ask them for.
> ...


Wheels....I want to apologize for perhaps responding a little stiffly to your first post. Based on what you wrote in that post ( and the fact that you had about three posts at the time ) I thought maybe it was someone trying to hawk goods for a particular ebay seller. ( MTBR has rules against that ) Since that post sounded a little "spammy" I thought ( at the time ) that I'd point out the dangers of buying from ebay. I thought I was being as diplomatic about it as I could seeing I generally don't take too well to spammers.

I see now that I was wrong. After reading your above post you don't seem to be in any way shape or form, "a spammer". A true spammer would not hold the opinions that you do.

To the folks who backed me, thank you for your kind words. Wheels, welcome to the forum. You sound like an opinionated person very much like myself. Expect the occasional challenge when someone disagrees with you. Be nice to people and they usually respond back in kind. Once again, sorry for any misunderstanding.


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## WHEELIE4DAYS (Mar 3, 2014)

Cat, I understand and thanks for clarifying your point of view.


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## Gingerdawg (Nov 14, 2007)

WHEELIE4DAYS said:


> I most recent bought another backup Solarstorm head with XM-L2 U2 leds, smooth alum. spot reflector, themal protect circuit board and threaded pills for $13 shipped so my time and effort do pay off. To buy that same quality and light output here in the U.S. would cost much much more.
> Thanks


Was this all through the William#### ebay seller?


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## WHEELIE4DAYS (Mar 3, 2014)

...


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## Reelchef67 (Aug 21, 2011)

I just got a solarstorm from ewbay for 18 bucks delivered. I did not realize how small these things are. Wow
A really great size four a helmet light.. Have not used it yet but for 18$ i am impressed.


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

Behold the true power of a flashlight made in China!
12000mAh 8.4v Battery Trustfire 12000 Lumen 7x CREE XM L XM L2 LED Front Bicycle Light bike Headlamp Head lamp Headlight-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com

God it's huge . Never gonna buy it


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

By the way, there is some visualisation of beams in cold weather, breathing to the SolarStorm x3 
















And, beam spots (sorry for quality, photos made with mobile phone):
Low








Med








High


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## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

NazZaR said:


> By the way, there is some visualisation of beams in cold weather, breathing to the SolarStorm x3


Where did you purchase your X3?
What LED's does it come with?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

Seance765 said:


> Where did you purchase your X3?
> What LED's does it come with?


Solarstorm x3 3 Modes 2500LUMEN 3XCREE U2 XM L LED Bicycle Bike Headlight Lamp | eBay

It is still a clone, but it works well and have not-so-bad PCB:
SolarStorm/FandyFire X2 - Page 32


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

Went to post office today and received a SSx2 head, that i didn't ordered or asked for a replacement . Somebody made a mistake it seems . I'll take that, thank you, whoever you are


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## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

NazZaR said:


> Went to post office today and received a SSx2 head, that i didn't ordered or asked for a replacement . Somebody made a mistake it seems . I'll take that, thank you, whoever you are


That would be too much of a coincidence, what store the X2 from?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

Seance765 said:


> That would be too much of a coincidence, what store the X2 from?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I bought flashlights only from these guys: laptopartsupplier on eBay


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## Seance765 (Feb 1, 2014)

NazZaR said:


> I bought flashlights only from these guys: laptopartsupplier on eBay


Oh okay no biggie then, thing is I'm having my x2 replaced from lightnalls; they sent me the light with the wrong LEDs

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Hmm . . . Trustfire kinda got in on the X2 clone market but took it to the extreme! Whoa!









Link to Fastech for the above light.

-Garry


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Expensive, useless modes, heavy. Better to have 2 x 7XML(36W version) or some other dual setup - maybe 3-clone.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

pimpbot said:


> Heh... I got one of the $17 Solarstorm X2 "5000 Lumens" (ironic quotes added by me) heads from fleabay next week. I figure I'll use it on my work bicycle if it isn't that great on the trail. You all got my curiosity up about this... to see which version I got.
> 
> I already have a decent battery and charger.
> 
> Yeah, for that price, I think it's hard to lose... as long as it works. Worst case, I bought a case to put my own parts in.


So, I got the light and took it apart. It has slugs in there behind the emitters that don't seem to be attached to anything solid. No thermal epoxy, no thermal paste... just loose slugs.

Cheesy build, but so far no real world effects because of it. It did not overheat and dim the light.

However, it shines very nicely! It's a good chunk brighter than my NR Dual700. I took it for a ride and it lit up the trail nicely. The beam was wide enough to be useful, while still having good throw. I gotta say, for $17 landed (sans battery and charger) I'm impressed.

My only major design gripes about it are the bright battery indicator lights on the back, and the low-med-hi-off switching.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

garrybunk said:


> Hmm . . . Trustfire kinda got in on the X2 clone market but took it to the extreme! Whoa!
> 
> View attachment 879702
> 
> ...


wholly teety flocking jeebus!! If it's worth doing, it's worth over-doing! Amiright?!?


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## Gingerdawg (Nov 14, 2007)

with the current china batteries, that thing should have a 7 minute run time...


garrybunk said:


> Hmm . . . Trustfire kinda got in on the X2 clone market but took it to the extreme! Whoa!
> 
> View attachment 879702
> 
> ...


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## KVW (Aug 11, 2011)

Gingerdawg said:


> with the current china batteries, that thing should have a 7 minute run time...


But at least you'll have the satisfaction of rolling up to someone on trail and watching them freak out and curl up in to the fetal position.

Don't forget your glasses:


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## Gluter (Dec 25, 2013)

What is diameter of battery plug 5,5x2,5 or 5,5x2,1, will pannovo fit PANNOVO B-C04 Water Resistant 4 x 18650 Battery Pack Case for Bike Lamp - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme do i have to use protected cells for solarstorm?


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## Zomby Woof (MCM700) (May 23, 2004)

leaftye said:


> View attachment 782741
> 
> 
> $46.54 Fasttech
> ...


That looks a lot like this one I found on Amazon that I was considering:
Amazon.com: SecurityIng® 4 Modes Waterproof 2800 Lumens Cree XM-L U2 LED Bicycle Light & 6400mAh Battery Pack & Charger, Cree LED Bike Lmap Light Super Bright Lighting Lamp for Outdoor Sports Like Cmaping, Hiking, etc..: Sports & Outdoors


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

garrybunk said:


> Hmm . . . Trustfire kinda got in on the X2 clone market but took it to the extreme! Whoa!
> 
> View attachment 879702
> 
> ...


I see your puny 7x cree light and raise you . . . . .









Linky link link link to this "awesome" light :bluefrown:

Enough already !!!

Please make them stoooooooop !!!!!!

Fat Biker


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Let's wait for the 32-LED model. 

But that 9-LED one is interesting: the current seems to be adequate, and 12-cell battery (even "no name") might provide some real runtime. OTOH, tradidional rubber O-ring mount looks quite funny for such a monster.

I'm interested in quality of internals and thermal management, but definitely not going to buy whole package, preferring head-only option...


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

It is a little pricey, much more than the purple and grey 36W 7-LED. But that 12 cell pack looks very funny and LARGE  Hope the cells aren't 1000mAh ones. Still having only XM-L though


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

MK96 said:


> It is a little pricey, much more than the purple and grey 36W 7-LED. But that 12 cell pack looks very funny and LARGE  Hope the cells aren't 1000mAh ones. Still having only XM-L though


Sorry to be the bearer of bad news an all but 1100mAh / cell seems like all you're gonna get !

"1 x 12-18650 battery pack (13200mAh, 8.4V, 2 PCS in series and 6 PCS in parallel, included)"

Fat Biker


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Abovementioned data means that 2200 mAh cells are used in that battery. Not bad, if the capacity is more or less correct...


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes, IF the capacity is CORRECT as usual. The price is whispering it should be. OTOH a head only for about ~$40 and two 5-8000mAh li-pos would perform better


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## Fat Biker (Mar 3, 2007)

-Archie- said:


> Abovementioned data means that 2200 mAh cells are used in that battery. Not bad, if the capacity is more or less correct...


Sorry my bad . I didn't have my boots off :madman:

Fat Biker


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## toto408 (Nov 29, 2013)

Gluter said:


> What is diameter of battery plug 5,5x2,5 or 5,5x2,1, will pannovo fit PANNOVO B-C04 Water Resistant 4 x 18650 Battery Pack Case for Bike Lamp - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme do i have to use protected cells for solarstorm?


I have this case, it works perfectly


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Gingerdawg said:


> with the current china batteries, that thing should have a 7 minute run time...


 Obviously designed by people who do not have a clue about cycling at night, I can not imagine any cyclist wanted to have this on their bar, as someone else said, knowing the Chinese battery quality , that will not run for very long! Less is often more, a light weight single or twin XM-L U2 with a good wide beam with good long battery time is all we really need, and if you want more light, couple two together, as long as you have a good battery pack no problemo!!!!!


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## TallChris (Oct 16, 2008)

Late to the party, but I just bought the Solar Storm x2 (with battery + charger) for $36 shipped from an ebay seller located in Texas. Ironically the seller name is "best mobile from china". Was I surprised? Uh, no. And I have no affiliation with the seller.

My last light was a NiteRider Classic dual beam with a heavy water bottle battery. Anything (!) would have been an improvement. This SolarStorm has been more than adequate for singletrack and awesome for commuting.

For the budget I'm on, it was either this, or try my luck with another 15 year-old heavy and used light system. I made the right decision.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

I thought you may be interested to know that my 5 months old X2 Solarstorm charger as given up probably after about a dozen recharge! I do love them and for anyone on a budget are a good buy, but the quality is up and down, you may get a good set but you may get a " cr-p" one.
I also did a small review on my 2 set I had plus alternative battery see: solarstorm-x2-5000-lumens-e-bay-purchase-mini-review
http://forums.mtbr.com/general-disc...purchase-mini-review-888049.html#post11156420

And please don't be fooled by the lumens figures that e-bay sellers are giving, if you get a good set with the XM-L U2, you will get approx 1600 lumens about 800 per led , this is a long way away form the 5000 or 3000 lumens advertised, but this is a lot of light for your money!


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## destineker (May 2, 2014)

Hello, I've seen that a lot of you have the X2s mounted with a Hope QR Universal Handlebar Mount, and I really like how it looks and the QR lever.
Can anyone recommend a similar mount that has a QR lever and that is compatible with the SolarStorm? Or a place where I can get the Hope mount cheaper, currently it will cost me 18 or so euros to get the Hope shipped to Macedonia which is a bit steep. All the other mounts I come across on the usual chinese websites are made to accommodate circular flashlights as far as I can tell.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Skyraider59 said:


> I thought you may be interested to know that my 5 months old X2 Solarstorm charger has given up probably after about a dozen recharge! I do love them and for anyone on a budget are a good buy, but the quality is up and down, you may get a good set but you may get a " cr-p" one....


When buying lamps and chargers like this it is a good idea to have back-ups ( particularly with the charger ). They are cheap enough so price is generally not an issue. Best to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. A spare charger is about $10. Of course if you already own two lamps you already have two chargers. As long as the battery voltages are the same you are good to go.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Gluter said:


> What is diameter of battery plug 5,5x2,5 or 5,5x2,1, will pannovo fit PANNOVO B-C04 Water Resistant 4 x 18650 Battery Pack Case for Bike Lamp - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme do i have to use protected cells for solarstorm?


Sorry about the OT question guys, but would this battery pack work on a Yinding?


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## destineker (May 2, 2014)

Yes, it will work.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Bearhunter said:


> Sorry about the OT question guys, but would this battery pack work on a Yinding?


x2....yes it will work. Just keep in mind you need to supply the batteries.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Perfect thanks guys.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

And the cheapest choice name brand protected batteries to use with it are these protected Samsungs from Banggood:4PCS 18650 3.7V 2600mah Lithium Rechargeable Battery For Samsung - US$18.65 I bought 2 sets of 4 batteries and they are genuine Samsungs (also verified by BLF members). Thats's a great deal!

They also shipped out within 24hrs and I had them in about 2 weeks. Keep in mind the lithium ion international shipping issues. These shipped Malaysia Post which has horrible tracking (tracking fine once it hit US) and is usually known to be slow. Guess I got lucky. Banggood has also had a decent reputation over at BLF lately.

-Garry


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Thanks for the great info. Do you think these batteries are too much for the light?

I have four Redilast 3100mAh 3.7v Li-ion batteries that I have for a seperate handheld light. I was hoping to get the battery pack above and use these batteries.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

What do you mean by "too much for this light"? And which batteries, the Samsungs linked? 

The redilast batteries are good batteries and could be used, but keep in mind it's best to dedicate 4 good matched cells as a "set" for use like this. You want them to discharge evenly. 

-Garry


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Sorry I meant my four Redilasts. I wasn't sure if the 3100mAh vs 2600mAh made a difference. 

The four Redilasts were purchased at the same time and always used together (4) in the same light. Is that what you mean by matched cells?

Thanks again for the knowledge.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Ah, ok. One thing to keep in mind is that you won't get 3100 mAh out of those Pannys (redilast branded). Those 3100's will also drop in voltage faster than some other cells (i.e. the well regarded Sanyo 2600's) thereby giving reduced output compared to those other cells. I'd have to look at the Samsung 2600's again myself to make a call. Actually though now that I think about it, 4 cells in a bike battery pack will act differently (voltage load won't be as bad as a single cell flashlight) so the 3100s may be a better choice.

HKJ is a very well respected member on both BLF & CPF and does extensive battery testing. His 18650 battery comparator is a great tool to compare batteries (Battery test-review 18650 comparator) . For instance choose Redilast 3100 on one side and Sanyo 2600 red (not the "bv" one) and select "3A". You'll see how the Sanyo holds voltage much higher much longer and will see difference in runtime (about 2800mAh on the Redilast at a 3A load).

Yes, always using the cells together in the same light counts as keeping them matched.

-Garry


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Garry,

Thanks again for the great info! Much appreciated.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

I went ahead and bought the Sanyo's as well. That deal is just too good to pass up! I didn't realize that price was for four! Thanks for the link.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Finished my post above. Yeah, that deal is pretty crazy to pass up! 
-Garry


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## mtbboy41 (Jan 31, 2004)

What charger would I use to charge the sanyo batteries? Would the case from DX referred to in past posts be the best case? Thanks for any replies


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

for example Nitecore i4 charges them properly


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

MK96 said:


> for example Nitecore i4 charges them properly


That's exactly what I have, works great on my Redilasts.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

The Nitecore i4, while a nice charger, is SLOW charging 4 batteries (375mA rate). The one on my list as well reviewed for 4 cells is the new Efest LUC V4 which I would buy from BLF member RMM in the US here: Efest LUC V4 - 4 Bay Charger - Up to 2A Charge - Includes Car Charger . 0.5A or 1A to 4 cells with the ability to do 2A to 2 cells (ie 26650's) and LCD display.

Edit - he also sells the i4 at a nice price too. 
-Garry


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

^^^ Another great deal. 

Garry you are going to get me into trouble with the wife.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

:lol: Sorry, I've been known to do that! I just provide the info and opinions. What you do with it is up to you! 

-Garry


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Lol


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Just got a Solar Storm X2..buddy bought it for me for working on his bike..got it off Wallbuys. Apparently took 1 week to get here from China..SICK! Initial impression..wow...small. Smaller than I thought and about as small as the Yinding I recently got. Seems to be very bright and function fine. A really like the screw-on connector for the cables. For the light itself, the light is VERY white compared to the Yinding..the Yinding is almost natural if that makes sense. The Yinding is a XML2 3b and the Solar Storm is a XML U2....v. different light colors. Will try out the weekend on my helmet (with the Yinding on the bar) and see how it goes!


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

TiGeo said:


> Just got a Solar Storm X2..buddy bought it for me for working on his bike..got it off Wallbuys. Apparently took 1 week to get here from China..SICK! Initial impression..wow...small. Smaller than I thought and about as small as the Yinding I recently got. Seems to be very bright and function fine. A really like the screw-on connector for the cables. For the light itself, the light is VERY white compared to the Yinding..the Yinding is almost natural if that makes sense. The Yinding is a XML2 3b and the Solar Storm is a XML U2....v. different light colors. Will try out the weekend on my helmet (with the Yinding on the bar) and see how it goes!


I think you'll find the combo will work very good together. The Yinding with it's more neutral color will cause less "close in" glare coming off the bars and the X2 with it's reflector mounted XM-L U2's provides a very good "expanded" spot coming off the helmet. I like the SS X2 helmet mounted. When I want a wider spot pattern coming off the helmet for twisty trails this is the lamp I use.


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## eggdog (Nov 17, 2010)

I wish more companies would come out with the "natural tint". For mountain biking it makes sense. Much better visibility and color definition when in the woods or outdoor environment. I find when I use both the "bright white" and the Natural tint lights, they mess up my vision as they don't complement each other very well..Try just the Yinding by itself then try the SolarStorm and I think you will see that for MTB, the natural tint is the way to go. 
Now if only the mfg will use this tint! ( Gloworm/Gemini are you listening!)


Cat-man-do said:


> I think you'll find the combo will work very good together. The Yinding with it's more neutral color will cause less "close in" glare coming off the bars and the X2 with it's reflector mounted XM-L U2's provides a very good "expanded" spot coming off the helmet. I like the SS X2 helmet mounted. When I want a wider spot pattern coming off the helmet for twisty trails this is the lamp I use.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I've been testing out my SolarStorm X3 lately while getting ready to post up a review (with tear down pics). It's really impressive with tons of wide flood, but I'm wondering if the SS X2 would be a better choice due to giving sufficient flood all the while consuming less battery power (I assume). The problem seems to be that you never really know if you're getting a good X2 or not when you order. 

I'll try to get my review of my X3 up soon. 

Edit- I did order some neutral white emitters to swap into it (natural tint). I'll try to get some comparison beamshots, though my beamshot setting is not on a trail or in the woods. 

-Garry


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## destineker (May 2, 2014)

Which handlebar mounts are you guys using with the SSX2? I know of the Hope mount that many seem to be using, but it's kinda expensive, I'm looking for alternatives. Cheers.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

The rubber band mounts work just fine for these tiny lights.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

This is definitely not as bright as my Yinding.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

destineker said:


> Which handlebar mounts are you guys using with the SSX2? I know of the Hope mount that many seem to be using, but it's kinda expensive, I'm looking for alternatives. Cheers.


I've got adapters to allow use of the GoPro mounts with these lights. PM for info and this thread has lots.

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/magicshine-gopro-replacment-mount-842362.html


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

This may be due to SS X2 reflector and Yinding TIR optics. Both should take ~16W from the battery I think at least if you got some underpowered driver on one.



TiGeo said:


> This is definitely not as bright as my Yinding.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

garrybunk said:


> It's really impressive with tons of wide flood, but I'm wondering if the SS X2 would be a better choice due to giving sufficient flood all the while consuming less battery power (I assume).


The X2 is pretty spotty light. There are some threads with side by side photos, though hard to find because each one of those threads is huge.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

It should be in the 2013 budget light shootout thread


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

CrozCountry said:


> The X2 is pretty spotty light. There are some threads with side by side photos, though hard to find because each one of those threads is huge.


True but the X2's are not as spotty as the single emitter lamps with their larger reflectors. With the X2's two smaller reflectors the beam pattern expands the farther you aim it. This helps eliminate the huge close in reflective effect you get when using the more intense beam pattern of the larger reflector lamps. When I use the X2 I usually have it in medium mode ( mounted on the helmet ). No matter where I aim the lamp ( within a 20 to 75 ft. range ) I can usually see very well. When coupled with my bar lamp I have all I need and never feel as though I'm trying to center too tight of a spot pattern ( which can be quite annoying when using something too spotty while riding twisty slow-moving single track with shorter lines of sight ).


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

How do I know if I got a good or bad SSX2? I got mine from Wallbuys. Pulled apart. Looked like a tight fit between board that LEDs are on and outer case. Came in a generic brown box.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Cat-man-do said:


> True but the X2's are not as spotty as the single emitter lamps with their larger reflectors.


Some of those spotty single emitter lamps can easily become flood with wide angle len addon, haven't seen that with the X2.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Runtime test underway. At 2 hours on high and still showing 3 green LEDs. The case doesn't get nearly as hot as the Yinding.

Edit. Tigeo is a [email protected] it on low..ahhahaahhaahah. Will re-run tomorrow on high. Goodnight.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Just a side note on the X2 beam pattern. I took mine out over the weekend and used it on the helmet. First thing I notice is the wider beam and loss of intensity once you aim it for distance. Unlike the single emitter lamps the duel mini reflectors basically form a large intermediate flood pattern once you aim it beyond 40 feet. Right now there is a lot of pollen in the air so the beam pattern is even more dispersed. Riding on wet trails doesn't help either. Once I hit the road ( which was dry ) the lamp seemed much brighter.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Question for anyone here that may know....

I was doing a run-time test to see how long it would last with the battery it came with. All 3 LEDs on the back stayed green for over 2 hours. I had to shut it off to go out (and unplugged the light from the battery) and I noted that when I got back and plugged it back in, only 1 light was lit. This one doesn't change the lights as the battery looses charge? Anyone?


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## Rendisha (Dec 9, 2012)

Got mine hooked up to bench power supply. Indicator LEDs start shuting off as I bring down the voltage and one goes blinky at around 5.4V, then when ramping up the voltage it goes back to normal 1-2-3 LEDs on.

There is some hysteresis in up-down behavior. From 3 to 2 LEDs it goes at around 7V but goes back to 3 at about 7.6V


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

TiGeo said:


> Question for anyone here that may know....
> 
> I was doing a run-time test to see how long it would last with the battery it came with. All 3 LEDs on the back stayed green for over 2 hours. I had to shut it off to go out (and unplugged the light from the battery) and I noted that when I got back and plugged it back in, only 1 light was lit. This one doesn't change the lights as the battery looses charge? Anyone?


This is cheapo light, right? So they are the batteries and the driver. 
Can you repeat the process with same and another battery pack? If you are getting the same results, I would say there is something wrong with the driver. Maybe some wrong cheapy resistor or similar. They are with 5% tolerance at best. 
I would also suggest to monitor the voltage during testing process, but not disconnecting it each time.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Now the SS X2 - not sure which solarstormified version - costs ~$12 for the head-only at LM site and ~$23 for the full set with "some" battery


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Will try with one of Geoman batteries.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Rendisha (Dec 9, 2012)

Mine head-only SS X2 from LM came recently - it's some of the MKIII versions I guess  but at least it had both pills. Driver is of crappier kind but it works. Had no luck with batterified version though - wasn't shipped at all (through Swiss Post), so got this one as replacement.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

How do I know what version I have?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

TiGeo said:


> How do I know what version I have?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


You'll never know tath exactly. Original seems to carry a black driver board, clones are of different color. LED MCPCB is on a thick pill press-fitted in the small body, clones may have issues with missing pills, loosen pills, ...


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

MK96 said:


> LED MCPCB is on a thick pill press-fitted in the small body, clones may have issues with missing pills, loosen pills, ...


These "thick press-fitted pills", do they look like these?:















Those pics are of my SolarStorm X3.

-Garry


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## Rendisha (Dec 9, 2012)

Seems that you took them out without problems, so those are not press fitted but they do look thick.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Mine came out rather easy (practically fall out). I added thermal compound where the pills seat on the body. I may do more work on it but am waiting until after I swap out the LED's to nicer neutral white ones. I'm expecting to eventually post a review / tear down thread - just taking my good ol' time to get it done. I've not seen any pics of the "good" X2's to know what the "good press-fit pills" look like. Are there pics posted somewhere? 

-Garry


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## Rendisha (Dec 9, 2012)

This epic SS thread probably has the answer, but I'm not sure if any X2's really had "true" press-fit ones.


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## Rendisha (Dec 9, 2012)

Just saw MK96 pics of his Lightmall's X2 from year ago and, of course, my driver is different. Doesn't have a daughterboard like most of the rest. Anyway, I'm thinking about tossing it away and using two Nanjg 105C's to drive LEDs independently.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

A couple of months ago there was a post showing pictures from an ebay vendor that claimed to know the difference between the real and fake solarstorms. The crazy thing was that they used pictures from this thread taken by myself and mk96 (?). According to this ebay guy my version was the real one and mk96 got the fake. I don't know were that post is and I don't have the energy to look for it right now. Our pictures were probably in the first 10-15 pages of this thread. 

My pill weren't really press fit, but at least I had them. I put in thermal grease to improve the heat transfer stuff. I used the silver thermal compound that I bought at best buy in the computer section, it's meant for application on a computer cpu before attaching the cpu cooling fan/heat sink. 

My light gets hot as hell when I come to a stop. I'm sure if I didn't use the thermal grease my light would have fried itself by now.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Oh yes, these photos were funny when I saw them on ebay  It was our stuff we posted here but really don't know the page number. Also Kir should have some photos of his X2 - he has a big collection of various versions across whole China  Basically if the driver works and is soldered OK then no worry no matter if is red, green, blue, black, ... I would stick with the one the light came to the moment it stops working and look for a replacement thereafter. ... and to those pills, if they get loose drop some thermal compound and you'll be fine. The reflector should hold these pills firmly - this should be checked and if not you may add some spacers/insulators also.


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## MojoRisin (Feb 20, 2014)

garrybunk said:


> And the cheapest choice name brand protected batteries to use with it are these protected Samsungs from Banggood:4PCS 18650 3.7V 2600mah Lithium Rechargeable Battery For Samsung - US$18.65 I bought 2 sets of 4 batteries and they are genuine Samsungs (also verified by BLF members). Thats's a great deal!
> 
> They also shipped out within 24hrs and I had them in about 2 weeks. Keep in mind the lithium ion international shipping issues. These shipped Malaysia Post which has horrible tracking (tracking fine once it hit US) and is usually known to be slow. Guess I got lucky. Banggood has also had a decent reputation over at BLF lately.
> 
> -Garry


Hello Garry!

I also got the head-only from LightMalls so I now need a proper battery. I got the battery box currently on dx, but it has no protection circuit module. Are those 18650 still the best deal around for good protected cells?

EDIT: Found this: Wholesale Buy UltraFire 18650 3.7V 3000mAh Protected Li-ion Rechargeable Battery - Online WHolesale Worldwide Free Shipping!!! Isn't Ultrafire a good brand? I know Samsung is better, but these are also very cheap.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Don't EVER buy UltraFire batteries! Almost always junk recycled cells and can be very dangerous. Stick with name brands. I don't know what the best current deal is, sorry. 
-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

@MojoRisin Samsung is very good deal. Per my tests they deliver full 2600mAh up to 3A. You'll hardly get better price elsewhere. I can recomed them. Don't ever think to buy any ...Fire batteries, expecialy cheap ones! They are more or less trash, throwing money in the toilet. With Samsung you'll be happy for 5+ years if treat them right.


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## MojoRisin (Feb 20, 2014)

Ok, everybody! Thanks  Will get the samsung pack for sure then.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I'm going to take my chances and buy an X2. I think I am going to go with the light head only from Lightmalls.

I would like to try swapping the reflectors for TIR optics. I know some of you have have been down this road before, but I can't find posts/threads on this. Can someone provide me links or point me in the right direction. Ideas on which TIRs fit would be appreciated. I do have a selection of TIRs from LED-DNA. I am looking for wide flood while maintaining some throw. My X3 is great, but it consumes a lot of battery power, hence the idea to drop back to the X2.

Thanks,
Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Uh oh! Did some searching and spotted this user's report on the Lightmalls X2. Ugh! Guess there is no "good one" to go after, or does anyone know of a better one?

-Garry


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

*X2 Type LED Lights*

I tried the china game, too far, too slow, shipping eats up your refunds.

Now I have some Amazon *chinacheepies*(see amazon links below) that all came with 2 day shipping

I have one of these _X2 TYPE_ on my helmet, 2600 chinese Lumen 2x CREE XML U2 LED

This looks pretty awesome, SecurityIng® 6000LM 5 x CREE XM-L T6 LED

lots to choose from, SecurityIng : Cycling

I have a 4xCREE light on my bars with a 6 cell battery.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

You can try what patski suggests. I believe you can't get the "original one" today ... too much solarstormified versions around



garrybunk said:


> Uh oh! Did some searching and spotted this user's report on the Lightmalls X2. Ugh! Guess there is no "good one" to go after, or does anyone know of a better one?
> 
> -Garry


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

I haven't tested these AMZN cheepies under normal winter conditions as the Folsom Lake area has had two extra dry winters in a row. My old ebay chinacheepies failed miserably in wet weather. My original TriNewt is still chugging along, seems dim now tho.

MK96, Where in Euroland r u? Does Amazon carry these lights?



MK96 said:


> You can try what patski suggests. I believe you can't get the "original one" today ... too much solarstormified versions around


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I live in East Euroland - Slovakia. Amazon should be here in a couple of months, but don't know if this stuff will be available here. There are several posts here on forums about securitying without any bigger complaints so I supported your post 

Anyway my chinacheepies hold quite fine even in wet conditions, just need to drop silicone where it is needed to prevent water/moisture to get into the light.


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## spankone (Aug 31, 2011)

My solarstorm review.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

We have a user over at BudgetLightForum who has an X2 clone with lousy heatsinking and has found one way to try and address it (mod in post#8).

-Garry


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

informative post, thanks


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

Nice, Peter Sagan sure has raised your profile... 

We have a good friend from Trnava, back in '91 we did a 10day ski trip in .sk, Chopok and the High Tatras.... Huge snow year.

Winter here usually means +10C and wet, lights and drivetrains take a beating.



MK96 said:


> I live in East Euroland - Slovakia. Anyway my chinacheepies hold quite fine even in wet conditions, just need to drop silicone where it is needed to prevent water/moisture to get into the light.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes I'd say he did  Beat me ... you know .sk wonderland? I am shocked  Most of recent .sk winters are warm now -1C till 4C  I use my budgets in dense fog also and they go well even when my helmet is totally wet.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

I ordered a Solarstorm X2 from a seller on Amazon. Light seemed to work fine - nice and bright with good wide pattern and decent throw. Didn't get hot to the touch at all even when run on high. After reading posts in this forum I decided to open it up and check the heatsink/pill situation and found this:









Already appeared to be dark burn marks on the board. Disappointing because the light performs well otherwise, and my Amazon 808 clone lights are still going strong after 3 seasons. I'm returning it to Amazon and am going to try the "Securitying" version instead. Hopefully the quality on those is a bit better. Borrowed the pic from Budgetlightforum.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Yep, always have to tear down and check the Chinese lights! Especially these SolarStorm X2's which have been cloned to death and are known to have gone downhill. Not getting hot is usually a bad thing, not a good thing. You want to feel that the heat from the LED is being pulled away and into the body of the light. 

What is pointed out in that pic isn't too bad in and of itself. The problem is what does that (emitter board) mount to in the body of the light? I assume yours is like the post that pic originally came from in that the emitter board only sat on a thin "lip" or "shelf" with no "press fit" pills which they used to come with (which my SS X3 does have). There's an idea - you may be better off going with the X3 which doesn't seem to have been cloned to death. 

By the way, the pic you borrowed from BLF was borrowed from MTBR (so it came full circle). 

Let us know how the Securitying version is. 

-Garry


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

No pills behind the emitter board. The board just sat on the lip inside the housing. I will open up the Securitying light when I get it and post pics here.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

While the builds aren't inspiring these little SSX2's get the job done and that on a shoestring budget. Like what was said the thickness of the board ( while it could be better ) is not the main issue. It would just be better if the contact area had ...well, more contact. I've not tried to take mine apart and don't plan too. Actually I'm waiting for the upgraded versions with either XM-L2 ( U2 ) or XP-L ( if or when they actually make those )

In the mean time for the novice or occasional night rider these little lamps are light-weight, have a small footprint, decent UI and provide a nice amount of light. So far I've not heard of too many cases of these failing due to the LED's burning out. If you spent $24 for just the light-head and get two years use out of it then you've got more than your money's worth.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

Thanks for the reality check Cat-man-do. I paid $24 for the light, charger, and battery. Lights this good would have cost 20 times this much just a few years ago. I'm sure it will meet my needs.:thumbsup:


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Cat-man-do said:


> So far I've not heard of too many cases of these failing due to the LED's burning out.


I suspect that is because folks don't want to be hear "I told you so" or "what did you expect?". They just silently chuck the POS in the bin and move on.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Vancbiker said:


> I suspect that is because folks don't want to be hear "I told you so" or "what did you expect?". They just silently chuck the POS in the bin and move on.


Or they're still happy with them...


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## fightnut (Jul 5, 2007)

NordieBoy said:


> Or they're still happy with them...


^This!


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

Received the "Securitying" version of this light yesterday. The packaging was more impressive than the first Solarstorm I received from Amazon, but it appears to be constructed identically. The emitter board is a single piece of aluminum that sits on the lip inside the housing without pills or thermal paste.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

slsl123, can you make some pictures of it? It looks again there is a lottery involved.....


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

BTW, these are great little lights. Did an 18 hour race this past weekend and one of the guys on my team used one of these on the bar and one on the helmet (with the stock batteries) and they worked flawlessly. These were purchased from Wallbuys.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

ledoman said:


> slsl123, can you make some pictures of it? It looks again there is a lottery involved.....


I can't take pictures - it's in a box on it's way back to Amazon now. Looks just like the light pictured in post #917. I'm going to keep the $24 generic Solarstorm from Amazon. It was actually a bit brighter than the Securitylng version.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Vancbiker said:


> I suspect that is because folks don't want to be hear "I told you so" or "what did you expect?". They just silently chuck the POS in the bin and move on.


I suppose that is a possibility. If you look at how many people are viewing the thread and threads like this one; I would tend to think that 10's of thousands of people are buying these things. People tend to complain if something is a POS. If not they are silently content. Likely in a couple more years there will be more complaints.

Back in the day when the only lamps available were halogen; The niMh batteries used with those lamps tended to only last a season or two. That meant you needed to buy a new battery if you wanted to continue using the lamp. Seeing it was the only real option at the time you did what you had to so you could continue night riding. Back then those batteries were at least $40 ea.( although I really can't remember it's been so long ) but I know they weren't cheap.

All things considered, if the lamp head goes up you have the option to either buy another cheapie or a better made lamp. The choice is yours. Another cheapie is another $20-$30 ( light head only ). Considering the options available, tossing the failed light for another does not mean you will automatically get another flawed lamp. Still, just like with the cheap batteries, if it last's a couple years you get your money's worth. You throw the dice and take your chances. Going forward, regardless of what you choose you end up with a lighting system that was better than what was used back in the earlier days of halogen. If it all holds up a season or two you made out like a bandit.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

Pulled out my *SecurityIng *lights last week to make sure everything was working ok, my 3X Cree had a cracked lens, thought a bit about being stuck 10miles from nowhere and then ordered a gloworm x2 from Action-LED, at least I'm guaranteed to be able to "see" my way home even if I'm walking....



patski said:


> I tried the china game, too far, too slow, shipping eats up your refunds.
> 
> I have one of these _X2 TYPE_ on my helmet, 2600 chinese Lumen 2x CREE XML U2 LED
> 
> ...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

patski said:


> Pulled out my *SecurityIng *lights last week to make sure everything was working ok, my 3X Cree had a cracked lens, thought a bit about being stuck 10miles from nowhere and then ordered a gloworm x2 from Action-LED, at least I'm guaranteed to be able to "see" my way home even if I'm walking....


Well I guess accidents happen. Assuming your lamp still works you can either buy another lens or another lamp head. Should be lots of old tri-clones out there being sold on e-bay but a replacement lens is probably just about $3.

Always a good idea to own at least one good brand name lamp. Your choice of GW is a good choice. Regardless always a good idea to have two light sources when riding back in the woods at night. Personally when I ride at night I almost always have 4 lights; GW on the bars, another lamp on the helmet , a small ( 18650 battery ) back up torch on the bars and lastly a mini EDC ( AA battery ) pocket torch in a pocket for repairs or portaging.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

So....I took my Amazon Solarstorm X2 out for a real night ride this week using the battery pack the seller included with it. I got about 20mins out of it (using hi and medium brightness) when it shut off. It now won't take a charge from any of my chargers. I then tried one of my older but pretty reliable packs from an Amazon 808 clone, put the Solarstorm in front of a fan on hi brightness, and got 1hr+ before it shut off. Now the 808 battery pack won't charge. I'm assuming I've overdischarged these packs and they are now fried. But aren't these LED lights supposed to shut off once voltage drops below 8ish volts? I'm not sure whether my light is a battery killer or my battery packs are crap or both. The weird thing is I discharged the original pack a couple times at home to try to get an idea of the runtime I could expect before taking it out in the woods and it charged back up no problem. I'm pretty happy with the performance of the light otherwise and would like to keep it. Do I just need better battery packs or should I return the light ASAP?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

It's likely the battery packs. The cells themselves may be ok with a failed protection circuit. Unless your comfortable with tearing the pack apart, checking the cells (see that they are not discharged too far), and possibly replacing the protection circuit, I would just get a new pack (and step up to a good reliable one). 

-Garry


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

This seems to be the biggest issue with these lights, the cheap-o batteries. My two have been fine so far but it seems to be a crap-shoot. For the price, I would just get a new $30 battery pack from Hunk Lee (ebay) or Action LED. If you go Hunk Lee, you need to make sure he builds you one that has the screw-on connector so you get a tight fit.


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## rvanderwerf (Feb 27, 2011)

TiGeo said:


> This seems to be the biggest issue with these lights, the cheap-o batteries. My two have been fine so far but it seems to be a crap-shoot. For the price, I would just get a new $30 battery pack from Hunk Lee (ebay) or Action LED. If you go Hunk Lee, you need to make sure he builds you one that has the screw-on connector so you get a tight fit.


I'm not sure where you can get these in stick, but these have served me well over the last year:
PANNOVO B-C04 Water Resistant 4 x 18650 Battery Pack Case for Bike Lamp - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

and these panasonic cells:
Amazon.com: Panasonic NCR18650B Super Max 3.7V 3400mAh Rechargeable Li-ion Battery-Green (2 quantity): Electronics

They perform like the day I bought them almost a year ago. I also have an e-cig that uses the same batteries, it lasts almost 1-2 months on one of these batteries. Good cells is the best investment over the rest of it I think. I just take them out to charge them in a nitecore i4. I get a least 3 hours on hi with a solarstorm x2 on these. I've never run out of light on them - I had to go home on low because I forgot to carge the batteries for a few months and just rolled out, but that's my fault!

I wouldn't waste the effort with those cheap pre-assembled batteries. If you order from china it just ups the risk it won't make it through customs or make it take longer - and for what?. I used to love my cygo-lites, but sealed proprietary batteries that cost 60$+ to replace for an old light just doesn't make sense.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> It's likely the battery packs. The cells themselves may be ok with a failed protection circuit. Unless your comfortable with tearing the pack apart, checking the cells (see that they are not discharged too far), and possibly replacing the protection circuit, I would just get a new pack (and step up to a good reliable one).
> 
> -Garry


Ordered a new pack - but I also want to repair the two packs that won't take a charge. Voltage at each cell in the pack is 3.7V so I think they are fine. I think I will attempt to replace the protection circuit. What's a good source for these? Preferably shipped from US.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Don't ask me! I've never dealt with them. Try Battery Space or Battery Junction. 
-Garry


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

slsl123 said:


> So....I took my Amazon Solarstorm X2 out for a real night ride this week using the battery pack the seller included with it. I got about 20mins out of it (using hi and medium brightness) when it shut off. It now won't take a charge from any of my chargers. I then tried one of my older but pretty reliable packs from an Amazon 808 clone, put the Solarstorm in front of a fan on hi brightness, and got 1hr+ before it shut off. Now the 808 battery pack won't charge. I'm assuming I've overdischarged these packs and they are now fried. But aren't these LED lights supposed to shut off once voltage drops below 8ish volts? I'm not sure whether my light is a battery killer or my battery packs are crap or both. The weird thing is I discharged the original pack a couple times at home to try to get an idea of the runtime I could expect before taking it out in the woods and it charged back up no problem. I'm pretty happy with the performance of the light otherwise and would like to keep it. Do I just need better battery packs or should I return the light ASAP?


When I read this story I had to scratch my head and wonder. I really doubt that the protection circuit on both batteries would go up at the same time. I think you have one of two possible scenarios;

1) You have an intermittent short somewhere between the batteries and the charger...likely on the charger side.

2) You just might have a bad charger. When you fully deplete a multi-cell battery the protection circuit on the battery throws an internal switch cutting off all current ( in or out ) of the battery. In order to reset the battery the battery needs to sense the full voltage of the charger. When it does it will reset and then start to charge the battery. If for some reason the battery doesn't sense the full charging voltage ( 8.4 volts ) of the charger the battery will not charge. This is how the protection circuit is suppose to work.

Once again, "IF" there is a short ( somewhere between the battery and charger ) it will also cause the protection circuit to kick in and turn off the battery ( which puts you back at square one ).

If you have another charger for a 7.4-8.4 volt battery I would recommend trying that to see if it will charge your batteries. You will know if the charger is working because the green LED will change to red while the battery is charging. Otherwise the green LED will not change if not charging. Replacement chargers are not real expensive. I recommend buying one. Even if this is not the problem it is always a good idea to have a spare charger.

Now if you indeed have a spare charger and it too is not charging either battery I am completely baffled.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

I am a complete moron. I was trying to charge the packs at an AC outlet with a tripped GFI. All the packs/chargers are fine. Thanks guys for the responses. These forums are really helpful.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Hahahaha


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

slsl123 said:


> I am a complete moron. I was trying to charge the packs at an AC outlet with a tripped GFI. All the packs/chargers are fine. Thanks guys for the responses. These forums are really helpful.


Actually, I was going to mention that as "Option #3" but decided against it at the risk of sounding too critical. 

Hey, it's all good....as long as the little woman doesn't find out about it. :thumbsup:

Lesson learned: Limit intake of post ride beers before charging battery. :cornut:


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## toto408 (Nov 29, 2013)

Hey there,
I have a Pannovo battery pack ( PANNOVO B-C04 Water Resistant 4 x 18650 Battery Pack Case for Bike Lamp - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme ) coupled with 4 Panasonic battery, and I'm very happy with this setup.
So happy that I want the same thing for my second X2 ; problem is: this case seems to be sold out everywhere.
Any chance one of you knows where I can find one of this case, or something similar?

Cheers!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Is Kaidomain out of stock (Pannova Case Link)? I know they are more expensive.

-Garry


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## LOOSEWHEEL (Aug 25, 2014)

Found this in another thread:

Wholesale Cheap Solarstorm BC-01 4*18650 Rechargeable Battery Case Used For Bike Light Online - Buyalleasy.com


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## toto408 (Nov 29, 2013)

Cool, thanks 
My mistake was to look for "pannovo" I think... 
BTW with 4 Panasonic 18650A it last more than 24hrs. at minimum power... Very surpising 

I also took this Action-LED-Lights ? Wide Angle Lens for the MJ-880 , we'll see if it fits the solarstorm and how it works


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

Jim's wide angle lens works great, nice beam everywhere and it gets rid of any Halo....



toto408 said:


> I also took this Action-LED-Lights ? Wide Angle Lens for the MJ-880 , we'll see if it fits the solarstorm and how it works


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

Cat-man-do said:


> Well I guess accidents happen. Assuming your lamp still works you can either buy another lens or another lamp head. Should be lots of old tri-clones out there being sold on e-bay but a replacement lens is probably just about $3.


Possibly it happened on my big biff last year, it's a decent light once it's warmed up and all three modes work... 

The "biff" is why I've coughed up the cash for a reliable/bright light system.

See what I've collected before I surrendered to common sense,



patski said:


> Pulled out my *SecurityIng *lights last week to make sure everything was working ok, my 3X Cree had a cracked lens, thought a bit about being stuck 10miles from nowhere and then ordered a gloworm x2 from Action-LED, at least I'm guaranteed to be able to "see" my way home even if I'm walking....
> 
> View attachment 925865


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Just in case anybody is searching:

I picked up one of these "X2" style lights off ebay that was an XML2-U2 with the name "ThorFire". I've been running one of the SolarFire x2's for quite a while without issue.

Anyways, it burned out on me almost immediately on me so i took it apart. Turns out it does come with XML2-U2's and they're on some decent heatsinks (though they are not pressed into the case). The driver seems to be a cheap POS. I don't know the individual components that go onto these boards but it seems to be missing quite a few and you can see where the failure occurred:










In the end i got half my money back from the seller and soldered the LEDs into a SolarFire, since the driver on them seems to be decent.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

How could you tell they were U2s???


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> How could you tell they were U2s???


The SolarFires actually come with XML-U2's, the important thing is that this ThorFire POS came with XML*2*-U2's (next generation). The wafers that they are actually say "Cree XML2-U2" and you can see a difference in the LED's. Here's a pic i found on the web showing the difference:


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## find_bruce (May 8, 2011)

Porch you seem to have missed the point - it is simple enough to tell the difference between an XM-L & an XM-l2. ASAIK the only way to tell which bin type you have T6, U2 etc is by testing it in an integrated sphere. Printing U2 on the circuit board does not mean that is what you got

As I understand it, all XM-L2 leds come of the same production line, whereupon cree test them and sort them by light output (lumens) and colour. Highest output & desirable colours (neutral white, warm white) are sold for a higher price.

The cheaper end of the market is where you will find blue / green tint LEDs


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

The writing on those "wafer" emitter boards means nothing. The Chinese will mount any LED on any board they can get their hands on. There is no way to tell other than testing output against known U2's in an integrating sphere. 

-Garry


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Oh i see. Well in that case, i've got nothing! It is noticeably brighter than my SolarStorm though.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

find_bruce and garrybunk are exactly on the point. There are almost no users of LED lights with the instrumentation to determine the output of a light and thereby deduce the bin of LED installed.

IMO there is no way these cheapo Chinese lights are using a premium U2 bin in their lights. It's been quite some time ago but I price checked the difference in a U2 and T5 bin from a reputable high volume LED seller. I don't recall the exact difference but it was about $1.50 per LED. Since the manufacturer knows that almost nobody will be able to measure the output the appeal of increasing profits by installing a lower output bin would be irresistible.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Vancbiker said:


> find_bruce and garrybunk are exactly on the point. There are almost no users of LED lights with the instrumentation to determine the output of a light and thereby deduce the bin of LED installed.
> 
> IMO there is no way these cheapo Chinese lights are using a premium U2 bin in their lights. It's been quite some time ago but I price checked the difference in a U2 and T5 bin from a reputable high volume LED seller. I don't recall the exact difference but it was about $1.50 per LED. Since the manufacturer knows that almost nobody will be able to measure the output the appeal of increasing profits by installing a lower output bin would be irresistible.


While all you are saying is likely true I figure that most times you are going to get the advertised product. The real issue is "availability". The newest upgrades in emitter efficiency are usual not available right away except in small quantities. The Chinese don't seem to come out with the newest stuff until way after all the brand name big boys come out with there's. I figure at that point there is no shortage of ( Cree ) product and likely because the Chinese buy emitters in bulk, there is no real increase in the price of the lamp. I suppose some do lie but in all honesty I doubt that most would chose to do that. If it came out that most ( of the Chinese vendors ) were lying ( about the emitters ) no doubt in my mind that they would lose a lot of the market share. For the difference in price it really wouldn't be worth the risk ( IMO ).

If you're going to buy a Chinese clone lamp I figure the biggest risk is; shoddy workmanship, cheap batteries and product ads that are sometimes misleading or outright wrong. Notice I didn't say outright "lies" because a lot of the time there is just a lot of details lost in translation. Not to mention that many times details are left out because the people writing the ads don't know anything about the products or the people who buy them.


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

Just recieved my SSx2 from muchbuy-outlet on Ebay. Works as hoped. FIrst use was in the rain. Still working.

What do you guys think about this battery pack?

D2A2 8.4V 12000mAh Rechargeable Battery for XM-L T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp[ebay]

Worth it?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

pdxmark said:


> Just recieved my SSx2 from muchbuy-outlet on Ebay. Works as hoped. FIrst use was in the rain. Still working.
> 
> What do you guys think about this battery pack?
> 
> ...


Not sure how many cells is being used but I think six. That said I don't think it is an actual 12000mAh capacity battery. 12000mAh is not possible with six cells. You might get 6800mAh if you're lucky but it all depends on the capacity of the cells used, of which at this point you know nothing.


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

Much appreciated!

1 x 8.4V 6400mAh rechargeable Battery Pack (4x 18650 Battery); is the battery the ebay seller said the SSx2 comes with. I have not put my multimeter to it at 100% yet and the battery is not at cutoff yet. It came charged and I'm going to use it 'till I have to' charge it again.

I have another question; I also have x4 Trustfire 3.7V 2500mAh 18650. Is this too little Amperes for the SSx2?

-A DIY light noob,
Mark


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

pdxmark said:


> Much appreciated!
> 
> 1 x 8.4V 6400mAh rechargeable Battery Pack (4x 18650 Battery); is the battery the ebay seller said the SSx2 comes with. I have not put my multimeter to it at 100% yet and the battery is not at cutoff yet. It came charged and I'm going to use it 'till I have to' charge it again.
> 
> ...


Sorry, I made a mistake on the first e-bay battery you mentioned. It seems that battery is made using the 26650 sized Li-ion cell ( think C-cell in a Li-ion ). These are somewhat bigger and thus have more capacity. Regardless, there are many 26650 type cells out there being sold making extravagant claims and I think this is the case here. To have the 12000mAh claim the battery would have to be using 6000mAh cells in a 4-cell 2-series/2-parallel set-up. That said I'm not sure that any 26650 cells are made that are over an actual 4500mAh capacity. This doesn't mean that the battery is bad it just means that it is over-rated. Compared to a 4-cell 18650 battery the one with 4 x 26650 cells is going to be bigger and heavier and likely more like 7400-8000mAh.

Just so you know, I see 26650 cells sold all over the place ( Chinese web sites ) ranging from 4000-7200mAh! Sadly most of these claims are outright lies.

About your other question concerning the "18650 Trustfire cells" ; These are likely more like 2000-2200mAh each. Expect the total capacity of the 4-cell battery to be more like 4000mAh ( if that ). Your SSX2 should have no problem getting more than two hours on high with a 4000mAh 4-cell battery. Just how much over two hours will depend on just how good the cells really are. With Chinese packaged batteries you really don't know.

If you really want a good battery for your lamp I suggest taking a look at the last 10 pages over in, "The Battery Thread; 2013". In that thread you will read about the many options for a good reliable battery. If you have questions don't be afraid to ask.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Cat-man-do said:


> .....Just so you know, I see 26650 cells sold all over the place ( Chinese web sites ) ranging from 4000-7200mAh! Sadly most of these claims are outright lies.


So the Chinese will outright lie about batteries but then be truthful about what emitters they use?


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> If you really want a good battery for your lamp I suggest taking a look at the last 10 pages over in, "The Battery Thread; 2013". In that thread you will read about the many options for a good reliable battery. If you have questions don't be afraid to ask.


:thumbsup:
I have not taken my light apart yet, but reading through this thread it seems that some of the SSx2's do not have a heat-sink directly behind the diode. If I find out mine is void of sinks off the diode, has anyone experimented with making a heat-sink, aluminum plug heat-sink, or small RAM heat-sinks?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I posted a link in this thread within a month ago I guess of a BLF member's post using copper pipe to make a heatsink. 

-Garry


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

12000LM TrustFire 7x CREE XM L2 LED Head Front Bicycle Lamp Bike Light Headlight | eBay

:skep:

@ Garry

Please go back to that post you are mentioning, in the top right corner of your postings frame is a number, it represents the number of post made in the thread and is also a link to the post you are stating. Right click on it and "copy link location". Then make another posting here and simply paste the 'link location you copied. Or you can edit your above post and paste it.

If you could please do that it would be awesome, thanks!


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

Give someone a fish, they eat one meal,

Teach someone to fish, they eat forever... 

copper pipe to make a heatsink - Google Search



pdxmark said:


> Please go back to that post you are mentioning, in the top right corner of your postings frame is a number, it represents the number of post made in the thread and is also a link to the post you are stating. Right click on it and "copy link location". Then make another posting here and simply paste the 'link location you copied. Or you can edit your above post and paste it.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Post 913 has the link: http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/solarstorm-fandyfire-x2-844802-37.html#post11441947

-Garry


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Vancbiker said:


> So the Chinese will outright lie about batteries but then be truthful about what emitters they use?


No, not exactly. I'm saying that IMO I feel they are less likely to lie about the emitters because the emitter is basically the main selling point of the lamp. If this wasn't so they'd of been using other counterfeit or lesser quality emitters years ago. Of course if they did that it would very likely be quite obvious to the people who buy the products and know the technical fine points that they were not getting the original product that they had hoped to buy.

No one is saying the Chinese won't lie or deceive. They are people just like anywhere else in the world. It is well known that there has been widespread deception when it comes to their cheap batteries. It is also well known that the Chinese like to exaggerate when it comes to numbers. They exaggerate lumen output and battery capacities on a regular basis so I understand why someone might think they would lie about the emitters as well. I'm not saying it can't happen I'm just saying it would hurt their sales immensely if they did and it became well known.

Once again, don't be surprised if you order something from a Chinese website and then don't get what you expected. It happens. When in doubt send an e-mail off to their sales contacts ( before ordering ) and ask specifically about the issues that you have questions of concerning the product you wish to buy. I've done that before and while you have to wait for a reply it can save the buyer a lot of time, trouble and money.

Yeah, it's a PITA that it has to be this way but it is what it is. If you only want to spend $24 for an LED bike lamp with a Cree emitter you have to roll the dice and then dance the Chinese shuffle.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

IMO they are more likely to lie about the emitters as there are so few folks equipped to determine the bin of the emitter being used. A light manufacturer with a calibrated integrating sphere would be unwilling to publish test results due to the mud slinging aspect this would generate.


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## find_bruce (May 8, 2011)

Maybe the should slip one into next years MTBR light shootout, just for giggles.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Vancbiker said:


> IMO they are more likely to lie about the emitters as there are so few folks equipped to determine the bin of the emitter being used. A light manufacturer with a calibrated integrating sphere would be unwilling to publish test results due to the mud slinging aspect this would generate.


As to the bin aspect; yes it is hard to tell bin on occasion but sometimes there are structural differences that help tell what emitter is being used ( if not the bin ). Sometimes you can make assumptions on what bin is being used if you have other emitters to compare to and can tell the minute difference in tint.

All of what I just said though is just based on common observation and is of course unscientific. The only real way to know for sure would be to pull the emitter from the lamp and hook it up to a controlled current source inside an integrating sphere and then compare to a known control emitter. More than likely sooner or later some one will do just that. The thing is if they find one that's wrong the Chinese marketer will just say, "Oh, we're sorry, it was just a mistake in the ad". "It is actually just an XM-L"....etc., 
etc...In other words, "Same Ol', same Ol' and business continues as usual. That's why I said before if someone really wants to know the real technical details it would be a good idea to ask their sales people before you order. Of course then you have to decide if you want to believe the sales people...

*@find_bruce;* Not gonna happen....not unless one of the companies decides to take out an ad. You did make me smile though.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Cat-man-do said:


> ....Sometimes you can make assumptions on what bin is being used if you have other emitters to compare to and can tell the minute difference in tint.


This is not completely accurate. In LEDs, the bin indicates the lumen output range and is not totally related to tint. True, the highest bins run toward the cooler tints, but cool tints are common in all T and U bins. Warmer tints do not have as high of Lumen output as cool tints and therefore rarely if ever make it into the U bins.

You are absolutely right on what the response would be if a discrepancy in actual bins versus advertised bin were to be published. Something like "so sorry must be defective from LED supplier".


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

Hey guys,

I had the SSx2 running for about two hours of 2am trail riding before taking it apart when I got back home two nights ago. Good thing I did, because I found what looks to be the starting of PCB burn in. My uncle has his machine shop and is going to make me some copper heat-sink slugs to spec I'll draw up for him. I might just have him make a batch when the prototyping is finalized and sell some so I can compensate him for his work.

The insides: The emitter sits on a 2/3mm thick lip that goes around the entire inside circumference, this is the only contact point to remove heat from the emitter. I used computer heatsink paste called IC-Diamonds, which is supposed to be the best CPU thermal paste on the market. A little heat-sink paste goes a long way; applied it to the outsides of the emitter were is will sit on the retaining lip inside the housing. This should help remove heat from the emitter and move it into the body where the heat-sink fins will do the cooling - [Hopefully].

Bought a 24 pack of Panasonic 3.7V~3400mHa 18650's, anyone have links to top end control circuits for the batteries?









The slugs I'm going to have made are going to be a tight tolerance, and will have to be lubed with heat-sink paste in order to slide into position for proper fit and installation. Where the emitter will meet the slug will only need one small dot of heat-sink paste.

There is this other thread I wrote in this morning, so you may notice a bit of copypasta in this post.


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

Also, I have the Nitecore IntelliCharger i4-v2 that charges four batteries at the same time, but feeds each battery an independent charge, is this considered balancing?

If no, please shoot me a link on the balancer I should buy.

Thanks for your guys help!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Not all SSX3's are created equal! See this posting.

The i4 charger is a good charger, but TERRIBLY slow at charging 4 cells at one time (375mA)! It's also not a balance charger. Are you using a Pannova battery holder? (Or something like it where you are using 4 of your own cells?) If so, just keep 4 cells designated as a "set", always run them together, and measure voltage after charging to be sure each is within 0.01v of each other. Then you'll be fine.

-Garry


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

... copper wire instead of R100 - nice and cheap mod  Even X3 got solarstormified. But you can always do the current sense resistor mod. The question is how long will it last due to other components.


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> Not all SSX3's are created equal! See this posting.
> 
> The i4 charger is a good charger, but TERRIBLY slow at charging 4 cells at one time (375mA)! It's also not a balance charger. Are you using a Pannova battery holder? (Or something like it where you are using 4 of your own cells?) If so, just keep 4 cells designated as a "set", always run them together, and measure voltage after charging to be sure each is within 0.01v of each other. Then you'll be fine.
> 
> -Garry


No on the Pannova, but thinking of ordering it; can the holder be configured(4P, 4S, 2P/2S)? I'm over at Battery university doing reading on battery configurations now, while writing on other screen.

I slightly understand how battery configuration math works thanks to UB, but what I don't understand is a 2P/2S configuration, because I don't think this is right;
[x4, 3.7V @ 2500mhA 18650]
2P, 3.7V @ 5000mhA + 2S, 7.4V @ 2500mhA = 7.4V @ (possible)6800mhA?

Waiting for the Panasonic [email protected] batteries.

Edit; Are the emitters on the SSx2 being built set up in series, or in parallel?
...

Not much history on building lights, actually have not finished the first light I set out to build from ordered parts, I just have a desire to build the stuff I want. So far I've built my own MTB, x3 PC's(2 with 24hr stable OC), garage, multiple network routers, and a low cost high yield farm. Now I'm intrigued by bike lights!


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

MK96 said:


> ... copper wire instead of R100 - nice and cheap mod  Even X3 got solarstormified. But you can always do the current sense resistor mod. The question is how long will it last due to other components.


I thought about this for my SSx2 lol. Havent had the urge to try it yet.


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## find_bruce (May 8, 2011)

pdxmark said:


> I slightly understand how battery configuration math works thanks to UB, but what I don't understand is a 2P/2S configuration, because I don't think this is right;
> [x4, 3.7V @ 2500mhA 18650]
> 2P, 3.7V @ 5000mhA + 2S, 7.4V @ 2500mhA = 7.4V @ (possible)6800mhA?
> 
> Waiting for the Panasonic [email protected] batteries.


Close but not quite - capacity adds in parallel, voltage adds in series. I assume you know the voltage is just a convenient notation & the actual voltages goes from 4.2v at full charge down to 3v fully discharged, or 2.5v for the panasonics

Using 2500mAh cells (milli Amp hours)
1s1p = 3.7v 2,500 mAh :winker:
1s2p = 3.7v 5,000 mAh
2s1p = 7.4v 2,500 mAh
2s2p = 7.4v 5,000 mAh

Better cells = more capacity. Using panasonic 3400 mAh gives you

1s1p = 3.7v 3,400 mAh
1s2p = 3.7v 6,800 mAh
2s1p = 7.4v 3,400 mAh
2s2p = 7.4v 6,800 mAh



pdxmark said:


> Edit; Are the emitters on the SSx2 being built set up in series, or in parallel?


Emitters on my ssx2 are in series, yours may also be


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Good luck finding a Pannova case. Most sources seem to have dried up. Kaidomain seems to still have it, but I wouldn't doubt its actually out of stock. I'd email them first and ask. Emitters may be series or parallel. You'll have to open it up and check. Find_bruce has already set you straight on the battery arrangement. The Pannova case supports 2S1P and 2S2P (2 or 4 cells). 

-Garry


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

Thanks for the clarification Find_bruce & garrybunk. Have have learned a lot from this thread and you guys...

I like the ductape idea for water resistance and it will some-what work as a leak barrier, if the TrustFires ever decide to die.

If I have any more questions, I might post up if the answer does not come to me.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Just ordered a second one of these. They are so cheap now and I've been impressed with the first one I bought many months ago. $13 for the light head (plus shipping) is hard to beat.

Black Color SolarStorm X2 2*Cree XM-L2 2200-Lumen Led Bike Light Without Battery Pack - Bicycle Lights Lamp Cap - Bike Lights & Headlamps Worldwide Free Shipping!!!


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

pdxmark said:


> I slightly understand how battery configuration math works thanks to UB, but what I don't understand is a 2P/2S configuration, because I don't think this is right;
> [x4, 3.7V @ 2500mhA 18650]
> 2P, 3.7V @ 5000mhA + 2S, 7.4V @ 2500mhA = 7.4V @ (possible)6800mhA?
> 
> ...


About the 2P/2S batteries; All single cell batteries have both a voltage rating and an Ah ( amp hour ) _capacity_ rating. With cells in parallel the Ah rating is added for each cell in parallel but the voltage remains the same. With cells in series the voltage value is added for each cell in series but the capacity ( Ah rating ) is not changed. Said another way, two cells in parallel just make one big cell of the same voltage. Two cells in series on the other hand means you have two back to back batteries ( positive to negative ) thus their voltage is cumulative, capacity ( Ah ) however remains the same. One might think if the capacity is not changed when in series how is that any better?....It is better because you have higher voltage which in turn gives a higher ( not amp hour ) but watt hour rating. Actually both are related and can be converted but most times you don't hear about watt hours only Amp hours. ( *Note, 6000mAh is the same as 6Ah, only a different way of saying it. )

If you go to web sites like BatterySpace they will list both the Ah ( or mAh ( milli-Amp-hour ) rating as well as the Watt hour rating of their batteries. The watt hour rating is useful because if you know how much power your lamp is using you will know how long it will run on the listed battery. On the other hand if you know how much current is being used by the emitters you can use the Ah rating to determine how long the lamp will run. All in all it is pretty much the same thing just a different way of expressing it.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Cat-man-do said:


> *Ah* and *Wh* ... All in all it is pretty much the same thing just a different way of expressing it.


Not exactly. For practical purpose they might be the same, but for the energy battery stores/returns they are different. 
Two batteries can have same *Ah*, but different voltage curve at same current load. The one with higher curve (integrated area below the curve in fact) can return more energy than the other. Put it other way around: batteries with same returned energy can have different *Ah*. That's why for example Sanyo 2600 can be better than Panasonic 2900 in some aplications. *Ah* is just one dimension and simplified unit to compare the capacity. 
Of course it is easier to calculate and compare only with *Ah*. 
(my 2 cents, just for the sake of science ;-) )


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Nice explanation, this might be sticky


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

To additionaly explain why Sanyos 2600 might be better in some cases. With unregulated and linear drivers (widely used in cheapo lights) brightness starts to decrease when voltage of the battery fells under Vf of the led. At that point current also decreases.
Sanyo battery with higher voltage curve can help this to happen much later (last third of its running time) while Panasonic (with more mAh) has somewhat linear descending curve and make it to happen already at half time or even before. Of course runtime with Panasonic will be longer but at lower brightness. 

If you take into account voltage drop across the wires and across the driver, the difference might be even higher. In real world you won't notice it unless you have both lights side by side, because human eyes can adapt to brightness change.

There are some other cases when voltage is important. It determine when to turn off status leds like those in SS2X or it can define point of falling back to "safe" brightness mode, etc....


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Then the lifepo cells may be the ones to go if you prefer higher brightness with cheap o lights. Low volts, huge amps, without a steep discharge curve.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

ledoman is right, but I do wonder how much this actually comes into play with many bike lights using a 2S2P battery arrangement. The vF (LED forward voltage) / battery voltage under load is more of an issue with single cell flashlight use. FWIW - it has been shown that the XM-L2 actually has a higher vF than the old XM-L. In some cases you might end up with more output from an older XM-L compared to the XM-L2 (in same light with same driver) because of this issue. I believe it all comes out in the wash though. Assuming same bins, the XM-L2 will put out more lumens, so when the battery voltage comes down the XM-L2 probably comes down to the output of the XM-L which is still running at its "peak" vF. Hope that makes sense.

Like I said, I wonder how much this actually comes into play with a 2S2P arrangement. I bet it's not significant.

-Garry


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

Yes, I figured a few questions; why are 18650's mentioned more than 26650's? I'm only seeing a $1.30 difference between [18650][email protected] & [26650][email protected] Understood that they will make a slightly bigger battery pack, but it would only be 150 extra grams at most and 'maybe' another 1/2" in diameter on the battery pack. Have you guys ever configured your battery packs into sticks so they hide against the frame better and are less noticeable?

Also, since my emitter was wired in series, what would be the 'better' battery configuration? I was thinking that high voltage is good, but I'll need capacitance for at least three hours of riding with the bar light, hoping to make a pack no bigger than six batteries, though I prefer just a four battery configuration for the bike, and 3S for the helmet. What would you guys do? I was thinking using 2P/2S using the panasonics at the bar on the SSx2, and 3S for a single LED MS-clone helmet light using the Trustfires, making [email protected] for the helmet spotting beam.

...

When this is all said and done, and I've got all the help needed and my light is killing time, I'd like to send a few of you who have helped immensely a 6'er of Oregon craft beers! I will bring up this discussion later in some of your peoples PM!

Vancbiker - If you are in Vanc-SoWash, I'll bring you supplies you might have to pick up down here, while bringing you a 6'er!


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

pdxmark said:


> ....Vancbiker - If you are in Vanc-SoWash, I'll bring you supplies you might have to pick up down here, while bringing you a 6'er!


Cool!!! I am in the Greater Vancouver Metro area, just off the 205. You must be living in one of our suburbs across the river  .

In my world, Black Butte Porter is an acceptable form of currency.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I'm not a battery pack guru, but you have me lost! Why 3 in series on the helmet light? Series is much more dangerous than parallel and you need balancing circuitry / protection circuits (to be safe at least). Are you talking about a battery holder where you charge the cells (individual 18650's) separately? Or soldering together a pack? Protected or unprotected cells?

18650's generally have a higher ration or capacity vs. size than the 26650's. (i.e. 26650's will be bulky for just slightly more capacity. Good 26650's have been harder to buy as well (not as common). Until very recently good 26650's topped off at about 4,200 to 4,500mAh capacity. Now the highest capacity is up to 5,200mAh as far as I know (not counting inflated Chinese capacity numbers).

-Garry


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

ledoman said:


> Not exactly. For practical purpose they might be the same, but for the energy battery stores/returns they are different.
> Two batteries can have same *Ah*, but different voltage curve at same current load. The one with higher curve (integrated area below the curve in fact) can return more energy than the other. Put it other way around: batteries with same returned energy can have different *Ah*. That's why for example Sanyo 2600 can be better than Panasonic 2900 in some aplications. *Ah* is just one dimension and simplified unit to compare the capacity.
> Of course it is easier to calculate and compare only with *Ah*.
> (my 2 cents, just for the sake of science ;-) )


Discharge curves for single cells are a completely different subject. Some 18650 cells are able to deliver more current than others but this really has nothing to do with the Ah rating ( per cell ) as the Ah rating is base on 1C discharge and is a standard measurement. Depending on what you are trying to power, when using multi-cell batteries using cells with higher Ah rating is usually preferred. Usually the more cells you have in parallel the less important the discharge curves are per cell. Once again though, it depends on what you are powering. If you have a lamp that is using a large current draw you might want to use a battery that can "maintain" that high current draw over a larger period. Doing so though will shorten run times. The more current drawn from the battery the faster the battery will deplete.

I've considered using IMR type cells when using single cells ( for torches ). Depending on the the driver used in the circuit and the amount of current it will allow it can make initial outputs look very bright and keep them brighter longer. However, what goes up must come down...at some point so there are trade offs. So far for most applications that I personally use ( multi-cell batteries ) I found the better Panasonic and Samsung cells seem to perform better. Now if I wanted to power two high output lamps with one battery I might want to use a battery built with either the IMR type cells or a Li-Po battery, both which would be able to deliver the higher currents needed.


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> Why 3 in series on the helmet light? Series is much more dangerous than parallel and you need balancing circuitry / protection circuits (to be safe at least). Are you talking about a battery holder where you charge the cells (individual 18650's) separately? Or soldering together a pack? Protected or unprotected cells?
> 
> 18650's generally have a higher ration or capacity vs. size than the 26650's. (i.e. 26650's will be bulky for just slightly more capacity. Good 26650's have been harder to buy as well (not as common). Until very recently good 26650's topped off at about 4,200 to 4,500mAh capacity. Now the highest capacity is up to 5,200mAh as far as I know (not counting inflated Chinese capacity numbers).
> 
> -Garry


Dangerous, okay. Didn't realize that. Glad you brought this up. I was thinking there would be a balancing/protection circuit I could buy to reduce the battery discharge, but this is only because I'm new at this and don't know really what I'm doing! - What configuration of battery pack would you suggest to use for a single 1800lm LED_[may not buy from link]_ to last 3 hours on high(though medium will mostly be used)? Thing is, I have this little black abs tray that holds three 18650 a little loose, meaning I can solder a battery pack in any configuration and fit the plates, wires and a balancing/protection circuit into the tray and shrink & seal it up. I also have a 14.8V 4 x 18650 Battery Holder that I mentioned earlier, it could be cut and reconfigured to whatever. Four batteries on my full-face Bell helmet wont be a concern, but four 18650 may make my POC Receptor unbalanced on my melon.

The Trustfire 18650 I have right now.

...

I need to get some tacos and shrink wrap, going moble. When I get back I want to cut open my pack I got with the SSx2 and see what it's made of. Right now I have the light on medium, without fan, to see if the heat-sink paste I used is transferring the heat from the emitter to the light body as it should. Because before, it was not getting very warm on medium or high, and as I read from you guys, this could turn PCB into fried potatoes.


----------



## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Sounds like you need to do some good thorough research into battery pack building and the protective / balancing circuits. Not real sure where to send you though. 

Are you sure those Trustfires are "good", "quality", and "matched" (i.e. equal capacity, equal discharge characteristics)? 

That light you linked says it runs on 4.2v, but typically they are 8.4v (I'd guess the listing isn't correct). Generally you can't run the 8.4v variety on only 4.2v input. I'm not sure what the upper limit would be, but I'd caution against going higher than 8.4v anyway. Those lights are not driven very hard - my two pull around 0.8A on high and 0.25A on Medium/low from an 8.4v battery pack. So a pack of 2S2P with readily available 2,600mAh cells (5,200mAh capacity) would give you roughly 6.5hrs on high already. Even if you dropped 2 cells and went with 2S1P (2 cells in series) you'd get over 3hrs on high (roughly). Those lights will be putting out approx. 1.6A at the LED, so that's about 530 lumens. 

The case from DX may have high resistance in those springs and wires (though you could mod it with better springs and wires). 

BTW - much of this discussion is getting off-topic from the SSX2 discussion. You might be better off posting a new thread to discuss the battery pack details. Maybe it's better in the DIY forum? 

-Garry


----------



## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Wait - why don't you just buy a custom pack from EBay seller Hunk Lee? 
-Garry


----------



## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> Sounds like you need to do some good thorough research into battery pack building and the protective / balancing circuits. Not real sure where to send you though.
> 
> Are you sure those Trustfires are "good", "quality", and "matched" (i.e. equal capacity, equal discharge characteristics)?
> 
> ...


Sorry about being OT, was getting carried away.

I ran my SSx2 until the battery cut out this afternoon. Turned the light on while it sat in the garage, put it on high with no fan and walked away for 15 minutes, about 58f outside. Came back and it was still running, but very hot to the touch. Body was not getting hot before thermal paste was added. I think the thermal paste is doing its job? So I got on the bike and went and got tacos and shrink wrap. While riding the with the lamp on high, it was hot to the touch, but not like what it was in the garage before the ride... Cooling fins are working! When I got home the light was still running, but very dim for high mode, and at this point is cool to the touch. I was out doing things for about 1h40m.

I will post up about the battery that came with 'in the other thread'. I cut it up after it drained and took pics with the voltage meter attached.



garrybunk said:


> Wait - why don't you just buy a custom pack from EBay seller Hunk Lee?
> -Garry


Looking now...


----------



## toto408 (Nov 29, 2013)

I received the modified optics for my solarstorm 
Action-LED-Lights ? Wide Angle Lens for the MJ-880

(There might be better fitting optics, such as Action-LED-Lights ? Wide Angle Lens for Gemini Duo or Action-LED-Lights ? Gloworm X2v2 & X2v3.0 Flood Optic - need trial and error I guess)

Here is a picture of the "stock" optics output:


Even if it's wide enough, there is a strong sport in the middle.

Here is my modified setup:



2 horizontal for the bar light, + 1 vertical for the headlight - so I don't need to move the head up and down, but I keep a long-distance sight.

Results (a picture is worth a thousand words):

Headlight:


Bar light:


PS: all picture are in "auto" on my camera, I just have a compact so I can't shoot with exactly the same setting so you won't see differences in brightness. But I don't see any obvious difference, I'll have to give it a try on the trails I suppose 

PS: to fit the optics I removed the stock transparent lens, and I used some blue tack to make it water tight.


----------



## C.M.S (Aug 28, 2009)

Does any thermal paste work or is there a specific brand that works best ?


----------



## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

C.M.S said:


> Does any thermal paste work or is there a specific brand that works best ?


Any is better than none and a little goes a long way. Personally I use Arctic MX-4 which isn't too expensive yet has good reviews.

-Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

As stated in the HD-016 review thread, I took a chance ordering an SSX2 from Amazon (chose a seller "Fulfilled By Amazon") mainly to get the driver. I will try to remember to post back with info. before I do any mods or swap the driver out.

pdxmark - where did you get your SSX2 from?
-Garry


----------



## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

toto408 said:


> Even if it's wide enough, there is a strong sport in the middle.


IMO that stock beam is much better than either of the modified beams.


----------



## 47mph (Nov 3, 2014)

Just bought a head unit $9.99 + Free Shipping 
CREE XM L 2XU2 LED 3 Modes 5000 Lumens Bicycle Bike Headlight Lamp Light Night B | eBay

Brand New "2" Panasonic 18650 NCR18650A 3 7V 3100mAh Li on Battery | eBay
A 2 cell case and a pair of female connectors.
Already have a charger that can switch between 1.2v and 4.2 v. I don't do rides longer than 1 hour so 2 decent batteries ought to do the job.


----------



## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> IMO that stock beam is much better than either of the modified beams.


I was thinking that as well.


----------



## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

garrybunk said:


> As stated in the HD-016 review thread, I took a chance ordering an SSX2 from Amazon (chose a seller "Fulfilled By Amazon") mainly to get the driver. I will try to remember to post back with info. before I do any mods or swap the driver out.
> 
> pdxmark - where did you get your SSX2 from?
> -Garry


Received my SSX2 from Amazon ("Fulfilled By Amazon" seller). It's pretty much what I expected I'd get. Little to no heatsinking, terribly under-driven, XM-L not XM-L2 (though it was advertised as XM-L). Few pics:










Driver:









-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yeah, the same I've got before the last one which is even worse. R2 and R4 (together 0.125Ohm) are sense resistors giving 2A (0.25/0.125) to the leds which are in paralell. So 1A to each led. Taking looses from lenses and reflector into account is same as would be driven at 0.8A each.

I can suggest you to solder R500 or bit less (R460, R330), over existing R2 or R4. Adding R500 wold get you resistance of 0.1Ohm and 2.5A to both leds. Adding R330 would get you 0.25/0.09 = 2.75A. Since heatsinking is bad I would not go beyond R330 unless you do some serious mod about heatsinking.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Ok, keep in mind that I'm planning to use this driver in my HD-016 light which has better heatsinking (I assume same as yours, but I do need to tear it down and at least add thermal paste). I'm hoping for 2A per LED on high (expecting Medium to be the most used mode with high more like a "turbo"). So what do I add to get to 4A to both for 2A to each? Or do you think that 4A is pushing this driver too far? This one does seem like one of the junkier X2 drivers! Should I cancel using this one and take a chance on another (which could prove fruitless)?

Thanks!
-Garry


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I think there is a diode (D1) that can handle 3A at max


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

This is a repost of what I put in the SSX3 thread as this is the right place for it to be.

I bought two SolarStorm X2 lights from the same eBay seller, a red one and a black one. I tried the red one for the first time Monday and on High-power the battery lasted about twenty-five minutes!

When I Googled it I saw there there are various versions of the SSX2 out there, identical on the outside but different inside, so I popped open the two I have here. These two lights came from the same place, identical packing etc, but the two units are completely different inside! Including the pictures I've seen on the net there are at least four versions out there!

But that's not the best bit. I checked the current draw of the two lamp units using a multimeter and the red lamp is drawing more than double the current of the black one using the same battery! 

The red unit draws 367.3 mA on the low setting.
The black lamp draws 154.6 mA on the same low setting.

Also, when plugged into the same battery the three indicator lights on the black unit stay lit where as the red until drops to two lights straight away.

I ran the red light again yesterday and again it lasted about thirty-minutes on full-power. Today I used the black lamp unit with the same battery. It was still going strong with three LEDs lit on the back when I got home so I left it running with a fan pointed at it to keep it cool. So far it has ran on full power for one-hour forty-minutes and there are still two LEDs lit on the back!

Point being that if I hadn't bought two of the things I would never have known. There is clearly huge variation in the quality of these lights and it's your donald duck what you get. Even buying two lights from the same seller is no safeguard. 

Oh, it's just dropped to one LED, one-hour fifty...


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

Light just went out, just under two hours.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

MK96 said:


> I think there is a diode (D1) that can handle 3A at max


It just dawned on me that the max your saying of 3A through that diode is at 8.4v. That would result in roughly 3A per LED which is more than I want. I only want 2A per LED, so that would only be roughly 2A through that diode, correct?

By the way, I'd be open to anyone wanting to send me / sell me their old X2's for the drivers. Would have to be fairly cheap and expect that they are in working order.

-Garry


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I think it might be fine, but the current on both LEDs together is 4A, estimate driver efficiency ~80% and LED Vf ~3.2V. The cell pack under load at the end of the discharge is 2 x 3V and max current diode can handle is 3A. It gives you 18W drawn from the battery. If this doesn't meet the power requirements of the driver and LEDs you can have a problem.


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Garry, generaly there are two kind of drivers in SSX2, first ones were with leds in series and the last ones are for leds in parallel. Your is for leds in parallel. Take a close inspectin of leds PCB how the traces to the leds are costructed. Another method to prove that is to measure voltage across the wires to the leds. If the voltage is arond 3V the leds are in parallel.
Regardless of input voltage sense resistor are defining current to/from the leds on the negative side. 
I'm not much into electronics so I don't know what is the meaning of diode D1 and where the current is flowing. I should inspect circuit traces to understand bit more.

What I do know is that sense resistors are defining current to the leds and the calculation is done the way I wrote. In order to be on safe side we should take 3A into account as mentioned by MK6. To acheive it your sense resistors has to have resistance of 0.083Ohm. You can calculate resitors in parallel here -> PARALLEL RESISTOR CALCULATOR. To get 0.083Ohm you should put together three R250 (0.250Ohm) in paralell.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I'm going to abandon the idea of using my X2's driver in my HD-016. Instead I am pursuing having the HD-016's original driver modded and a custom MCU swapped in. (Don't want to derail this thread with anymore HD-016 discussion.) 

Thanks for the input guys!

-Garry


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

Can I use one of these:









To charge the SSX2 battery pack? Looks totally compatible to me but my son thinks the battery will explode. Which would be interesting to see anyway.

AC/DC Delta peak fast charger!

Fast 4.8v-8.4v 3.5Ah (AC/DC inputs)
Fast 4.8v-9.6v 3.5Ah (AC input only)
Trickle 4.8v-8.4v 130mah (AC/DC input)
Trickle 4.8v-9.6v 130mah (AC input only)
Delta peak cut off
Auto trickle charge
Auto shut down
Reverse polarity protection
Fused AC input/ DC output
Audible alert of fast charge complete & hookup errors


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

According to what you wrote there NO. (I did not read up specs on the unit.) Delta peak is an NIMH/NiCad charging method. Lithium Ions require a CC/CV charge. You WILL cause Li-Ions to explode if you're not careful! It's a serious issue! 

You'll either want a quality wall-wart style "Li-Ion Charger" (perhaps Action LED sells a compatible one sold for a MagicShine pack?). Or you get a "hobby charger" which has tons more uses at the expense of being more difficult to use. 

-Garry


----------



## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

garrybunk said:


> You WILL cause Li-Ions to explode if you're not careful! It's a serious issue!


Thank you. Thought I might haver a faster way of charging the battery sitting here but I guess not. The thought of sticking the battery in a pot and plugging it into the charger anyway appeals but I'd have to buy a new battery!

And maybe a new pot?... ;0)


----------



## 47mph (Nov 3, 2014)

The headlight arrived today. 



No pills. :sad:. No thermal paste.

Soo, using a couple of electrical box knockout slugs, a drill, a bench grinder, a #6 bolt, some nuts and a metal file progress so far:



Left, finished w/ chamfer on edge. Right, blank knockout unmodified. I have the thermal paste, Arctic MX-2.

Oooh, just checked the thermal conductivity of copper vs carbon steel. Copper is 7x better. Scatch the slug idea. I'll cut, flatten and mod some copper piping instead.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

47mph said:


> The headlight arrived today. No pills. :sad:.


Neither has mine but it does not overheat. It gets hot if ran on high while not moving so my guess is that there is still decent heat transfer going on.


----------



## <JK> (Apr 18, 2006)

*Copper Coin Trick*

Hey!

I've done back plates to all my Solarstorm X2 clones from coins as suggested earlier, there are even few nice pictures.

It was surprisingly fast to grind one face of a coin even against a table and the diameter to tight fit with nothing but sandpaper. I had the front plate protrude some due to coin thickness, but I'm fine with that. One unit had no grooves in the reflectors for the O-rings and I had to stretch them around the glass compromising seal to get the thing packed up again.

Now I'm trying to figure out how I'll get rid of the PWM flickering on the same troublemaker as it has a three minute timer on the only flicker free mode, the high mode. I never use the other modes anyway and it's annoying to cycle the light back to high all the time while it keeps offering me some conservation mode exactly every three minutes so there might be some brutal acts coming its way. The light has the same driver board as seen here.

We'll see how things turn out and I hope it won't include smoke. I do have faith in this special case, I've even used it with a 12 volt battery with no issues.

Edit: the light abused with a 12 V battery broke.

Happy crafting!

JK


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## cardnation (Jul 2, 2014)

ledoman said:


> Yeah, the same I've got before the last one which is even worse. R2 and R4 (together 0.125Ohm) are sense resistors giving 2A (0.25/0.125) to the leds which are in paralell. So 1A to each led. Taking looses from lenses and reflector into account is same as would be driven at 0.8A each.
> 
> I can suggest you to solder R500 or bit less (R460, R330), over existing R2 or R4. Adding R500 wold get you resistance of 0.1Ohm and 2.5A to both leds. Adding R330 would get you 0.25/0.09 = 2.75A. Since heatsinking is bad I would not go beyond R330 unless you do some serious mod about heatsinking.


*ledoman, Where can I pick up some R330 resistors?*

Looks like I have the same X2 board as both of you. While I was fixing some of the poor soldering, I put a meter to mine at the and got a reading of 1.64A measured from the LED leads. Seems your calculations were pretty spot on. :thumbsup:










My original X2 (below) pulls 2.58A, but has a different board all together. Its night and day difference between the two.


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I've got them from FastTech - $1.41 0805 0.33R SMD Precision Resistors (100-Piece) 100-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping but you might find them also in your local electronic shop depends on where you live.
In any case give the light some more heatsinking if you are going to mod the sense resistors.

Regarding "original" X2 there are probably leds connected in series where each leds gets 0.25/0.117 = 2.14A. 0.117 Ohm is resistance of both R220 and R240 in parallel. You also probably have much beter heatsinking under leds.

BTW, who know's which is real original? I've started with black T shaped circuit you can't see anymore.

PS. 0805 size is very small, you might try with 1206 size but then it overlaps existing ones. I think your "original" X2 has 1206 size sense resistors.


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## cardnation (Jul 2, 2014)

ledoman said:


> I've got them from FastTech - $1.41 0805 0.33R SMD Precision Resistors (100-Piece) 100-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping but you might find them also in your local electronic shop depends on where you live.
> In any case give the light some more heatsinking if you are going to mod the sense resistors.
> 
> Regarding "original" X2 there are probably leds connected in series where each leds gets 0.25/0.117 = 2.14A. 0.117 Ohm is resistance of both R220 and R240 in parallel. You also probably have much beter heatsinking under leds.
> ...


Awesome thank you for the help!

I think I complicated things by labeling my second X2 as "original" what I meant by original was my "first". I wish the true originals with the black "T" board's were still around.

You are correct, both units have the LEDs in series.


----------



## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

I have two of these battery packs, never an issue. They run pretty long with my 2Cree and 3Cree clones. Only use high when necessary of course.



fishymamba said:


> Any of you tried this battery pack from Amazon? Amazon.com: Replacement 8.4V 6600mAh Rechargeable Battery Pack for Headlamp & Bicycle Light: Sports & Outdoors
> 
> It is a 2S3P pack so even if it is using 2000mah cells, the run time should be decent. The battery that came with my light is really bad, didn't even last 1 hour at the highest setting.


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## 47mph (Nov 3, 2014)

Anyone have a spare circuit board they would care to part with? Working or non-working, either way is OK with me.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

47mph said:


> Anyone have a spare circuit board they would care to part with? Working or non-working, either way is OK with me.


LightMalls is selling driver that fit SS X2s. They're the same ones pictured a few posts above this.

8.4V 4 Modes LED Bike Light Circuit Board Drvier For SolarStorm X2 LED Bike Light


----------



## cardnation (Jul 2, 2014)

Ian_C said:


> LightMalls is selling driver that fit SS X2s. They're the same ones pictured a few posts above this.
> 
> 8.4V 4 Modes LED Bike Light Circuit Board Drvier For SolarStorm X2 LED Bike Light


Anyone tested this driver? Looks like it could be modded fairly easily.


----------



## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

looks quite weak at least to me


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

That one is very poor, AFAIK. It doesn't says you have to connect the leds - in series or parallel. Last time I saw this driver the leds were connected in parallel and they were quite underdriven. There were two R250 sense resistors in parallel. Can't see from the pictures those very well. They are 2 leftmost (or rightmost, depends on picture orienation) resistors almost under the coil.

If they are R250 and the sense chip is LEDA then the current to the leds is 0.25/0.125=2A where two resistors in parallel has resistance of 0.125Ohm and 0.25V is feedback voltage!

We have discussed this driver on previos page from top downwards.


----------



## <JK> (Apr 18, 2006)

*Solarstorm X2 Driver Boards*



<JK> said:


> We'll see how things turn out and I hope it won't include smoke. I do have faith in this special case, I've even used it with a 12 volt battery with no issues.


Hello!

I got away with the smoke, but eventually the light did turn dim for good and a replacement driver board would be nice. The first time it recovered over night. I'd imagine spare boards will eventually be more available, though it might be more cost efficient to just get a complete head.

Cheers!

JK


----------



## StiffNeck (Jul 17, 2012)

Anybody knows where to find extension cords that use the same screw-on connector as the Solarstorm use?








I would like to keep my batteries pack warm in my winter coat form my fat bike ride; but still interested by keeping the connection screwed.


----------



## Gingerdawg (Nov 14, 2007)

E-bay has em


----------



## StiffNeck (Jul 17, 2012)

Gingerdawg said:


> E-bay has em


Are you bragging or you actually have a link to share?


----------



## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I couldn't find them myself doing a search on Ebay.

-Garry


----------



## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I found some here:

5.5*2.1mm Dc Plug Waterproof Cable With Thread - Buy Waterproof Cable With Thread,5.5*2.1mm Waterproof Cable,Screw Locking Waterproof Cable Product on Alibaba.com

Waterproof DC Power Cable Set - 5.5/2.1mm ID: 743 - $2.50 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits

Not an ebay search, but a google, anyway we have an idea what to look for ;-) If I was changing the connectors I'd use AMP 2 wire. I actually bought a 100pcs set from ebay but forgot the link. Here's an ali stuff:

20 sets Kit 2 Pin Way AMP Super seal Waterproof Electrical Wire Connector Plug free shipping-in Connectors from Electrical Equipment & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group


----------



## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I don't think those are "extension cables" but just pigtails with the correct ends for D.I.Y. wiring.

Interesting idea on those 2pin AMP waterproof ones. 

-Garry


----------



## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yep, pigtails. It used to be an ebay link here on forums but for pigtails thou. AMP conn. is waterproof and can stand higher currents in opposite to the 5.5/2.1 DC classic which is maxed at 3-5A. I am not so sure that it exists the screw-in solarstorm like extesion cable ...


----------



## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> I don't think those are "extension cables" but just pigtails with the correct ends for D.I.Y. wiring.


Solder male+female parts together, and you'll have an extension cable! Adding piece of cable in between will allow to make extension of any required length...


----------



## StiffNeck (Jul 17, 2012)

I have finally found something. It looks compatible but since I haven't found connector dimension spec, I can't be sure.

Spark 80CM cable for SX5 serie
sold by hkequipment hkequipment - Spark 80CM cable for SX5 serie


----------



## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

Adafruit has them for, but it doesn't specify the gauge. I suspect 22, but I've sent of a request for more info.

Waterproof DC Power Cable Set - 5.5/2.1mm (Product ID: 743): $2.50 

Edit: Sorry, that may just be the ends. Still looking for cables


----------



## Rotund (Jun 24, 2012)

I've been using a cheapy solarstorm ebay light for a few months, and had no problems.

It now appears to have turned itself into some kind of low battery power mode. I've noticed before that after a couple of hours on full, it will automatically switch to this mode, so that, I assume, you can still be seen, but not actually see by the light.

All of my batteries are good, and provide power for other lights.

Does anyone know of a way to get my solarstorm working properly again?

Pictures attached.

Thanks

Chris

View attachment 963237


View attachment 963238


View attachment 963239


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Chris, thanks to posting here. If you can delete also pictures in the other thread.

I suspect your driver has gone. It would be nice to post the picture of it. To check leds, you need firstly to see if they are connected in series or in parallel. Then you can apply some voltage to them 6.4V if in series and 3.2V if in paralell. This is safe enough voltage you won't hurt them.
As I understand it happened before after some hours of running, but now at beginning. This probably would be because some element overheating and slowly degarde. It might be some capacitor or similar. 
Driver can be bought separately at Lightmall.com, but first you have to check if the leds are still OK. Or alternatively, buy another light. They are cheap now. Yinding or KD2 is the way to go.

BTW. No need to post same topic in a three threads, right?


----------



## sylvio (Jan 19, 2015)

Hi,

I've one of this SolarStorm/FandyFire X2 lamp (bought on aliexpress).

I've bought this battery case to use the lamp: Solarstorm 2S2P 8.4V.

I would like to know how to switch off the battery/lamp to avoid the power indicator lights to stay turned on? 
For the moment the only solution is to unplug the lamp from the battery case, which is not very convenient.

Thanks in advance for your ideas!


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

The only one I can think of is permanent - unsolder the status leds


----------



## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Rotund said:


> I've been using a cheapy solarstorm ebay light for a few months, and had no problems.
> 
> It now appears to have turned itself into some kind of low battery power mode. I've noticed before that after a couple of hours on full, it will automatically switch to this mode, so that, I assume, you can still be seen, but not actually see by the light.
> 
> ...


I'm assuming from your post that the lamp is stuck in the low power mode. Could be a problem with the driver, loose/bad connection to the LED board or something else. My advice to is just buy another and if the other can't be fixed you can use the old one for parts. For the price of a new one it just doesn't make sense to waste too much time trying to fix something that you might not be able to fix.

Since you only need the lamp head it shouldn't cost more than $20 to replace. Going forward, if you like to use the high mode a lot just be sure that you are moving so the lamp doesn't overheat. Very possible that your lamp crapped out because it overheated. If you stop to rest be sure to power to low or off.


----------



## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

sylvio said:


> Hi,
> 
> I've one of this SolarStorm/FandyFire X2 lamp (bought on aliexpress).
> 
> ...


I bought the same battery case from gearbest in January. The on and off switch on my box will turn the battery condition light off or on. Ie with mine, the battery lights are always off and need to be turned on by the little blue switch if required. Connecting a light to the box or not does not make any difference to the working of the switch. I thought this was a good feature. If you lights are always on, i would think the battery box switch does not work and you have a faulty one?


----------



## sylvio (Jan 19, 2015)

Sorry if my post wasn't clear enough: I meant the power indicator lights on the lamp, not on the battery case


----------



## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

I think, disconnecting is still most simple option for that case. Other options are, add-on switch soldered somewhere along the cable, and modification of lamp's electronic to reduce power consumption of indicator LEDs.

BTW, all the SS/FF X2 lights I've ever seen, were equipped with way too bright indicators: some of my cycling mates ever used one-two layers of blue electric tape to cover them, as in the complete darkness they're annoying to the rider...


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

Does anybody have an electron solution to dimming the power level LEDs on the SS lightheads?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Ian_C said:


> Does anybody have an electron solution to dimming the power level LEDs on the SS lightheads?


You should change resistors for each indicator led to be more resistant ie. limit the current that flow through it. That way you would get dimmer status leds. For the driver you can get at Lightmall there is only one resistor for all three leds - see the only resistor on this picture: https://www.lightmalls.com/media/ca...rvier_for_solarstorm_x2_led_bike_light_4_.jpg
For the one who doesn't to have status leds at all should just unsolder that resistor.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

I have one of the original, well made SolarStorm X2s. I was thinking of upgrading it with 3C Neutral LEDs to mach the Yinding (after I get the neutral board).

I see that International Outdoors has both the XM-L2 U2 and XP-L V6 on Noctigon boards with only about ten cents difference between them. Comparing the Flashlight Wiki charts, driven at the same mA, the XP-L looks to be brighter.

I know I've read elsewhere that a different LED can create a totally different beam pattern in reflector lamps. I remember seeing one that created a ringy beam.

So for the upgrade, should I stick with the XM-L2, or experiment with the XP-L? What should I expect out of the XP-L if I go that route?

What size is the hex wrench for the original SS. It's smaller than 1.5. Any idea where I can get something that will fit?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Hi there, XP-L is a bit smaller and needs fiddling with the plastic spacer led <-> reflector. I'd go the XM-L2 3C route - same size as the former one. The led die is the same by XP-L and XM-L/2 hence the same properties.

The hex is smaller 1 or 1.3mm, search over FT site there are toolsets for about $9-14 with many bits including the hex, philips, torx, ...


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

I got one of those multi tool sets from Ace couple years ago, was under $10 at the time. One of the hex bits seemed a match for the screws on my SS X3 but their heads are so delicate and they're tightly driven it, found it impossible to unscrew any. They just stripped.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Got a multi mini tool set from Ace couple years ago, think it was under $10 at the time. One of the hex bits seemed a match for the screws on my SS X3, but their heads are real delicate and they're so tightly driven in, I found it impossible to unscrew any of them without stripping.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

The threads are delicate so is the hex head. IMHO 2Nm torque is already too much. I got mine apart and back without a hassle. Need to do it carefully  !


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## bianchifan (Feb 13, 2010)

Ian_C said:


> I have one of the original, well made SolarStorm X2s. I was thinking of upgrading it with 3C Neutral LEDs to mach the Yinding (after I get the neutral board).


I did so more than 1y ago, but I took 3B instead of 3C 



Ian_C said:


> I see that International Outdoors has both the XM-L2 U2 and XP-L V6 on Noctigon boards with only about ten cents difference between them. Comparing the Flashlight Wiki charts, driven at the same mA, the XP-L looks to be brighter.


It's just the opposite, XP-L has a higher forward voltage.



Ian_C said:


> ..I know I've read elsewhere that a different LED can create a totally different beam pattern in reflector lamps. I remember seeing one that created a ringy beam.


XP-L is smaller in size/dome, it doesn't fit very well in XML designed optics. For the X2 hasn't any optics but reflectors it may have minor influence. I never tested



Ian_C said:


> What should I expect out of the XP-L if I go that route?


Shorter enjoyment at highest brightness, even earlier dimming when battery voltage brakes down.



Ian_C said:


> What size is the hex wrench for the original SS.


The original screws do need a 1.3 hex driver, they are of very weak meterial. I highly recommand to look for better ones and change like me's 
Please have a look at the middle ****, i drove them only once!

Torx (T6?) replacement outline

My SS X2 galleries:
Abload.de
MTB-news.de


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## xtreamer91 (Jul 18, 2015)

Hi all, i read this thread since the first day, i can understand some of the things on this because i am technic but not too much advanced!

in 2013 i bought a Fandyfire x2 from Fasttech and already have it work, i made some mod's like apply thermal compoud inside and etc etc, limit the lenght of the cables, soldering it a little more smaller because i dont want to go riding with all cables with me!

The light on FandyFire is a pinkish/bluish tone, not warm, is really really white natural and i like the light, is really a lot of light when in high mode!

Two weeks ago i bought from ebay two more of this lamps for two friends who ride with me sometimes, it arrives fast because is from UK seller, cost the same of buying in Fasttech and come with red light for back and other extras! But isn't the FandyFire, is SolarStorm and is the black color (my Fandyfire is red!).

I have done some tests with the new lights and my light and i see, theres not the same type of led, i think my Fandyfire is XML-U2 and this new 2 lamps of Solarstorm is the XML-L2, and the differences between those are the XML-L2 doesnt come too hot like Fandyfire, but give more light (15/20%), but have not the same color, is more greenish color, not the same contrast, look like dead light with greenish tone, my fandyfire look better because is more white with a tone of blue/pink in corners and the white is better, feel like xenon light and solarstorm look like the citroen saxo light! xD

its normal the new XML-L2 look like this? i brought a day ago for me one solarstorm x2 in red (arrive by the end of this month) but come with XML-T6, and my fandyfire is a XML-U2 and i have to know: the XML-T6 is better than XML-L2? and the light from XML-T6 is more bluish than XML-L2? and XML-T6 have the same temperature of color like the XML-U2?

if anyone can help i give the thanks for that! 

*sorry for my bad english, i am portuguese and, for this text i use the google translator!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

What emitters are listed have nothing to do with tint. Tint is determined by what the manufacturer decides to install. XML is old version of cree lights, xm-l2 is new, more efficient and more output emitters.

Tint is listed as cool white or neutral white, the colors you get on the edges of the light is impossible to know till u receive the light. Cool white emitters go from 1a to 1d tint normally, neutral white (natural light) is 3b-3d or 4c tint normally.

No way to control what tint you get except to purchase and change the emitters based on the tint you want.


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## xtreamer91 (Jul 18, 2015)

tigris99 said:


> What emitters are listed have nothing to do with tint. Tint is determined by what the manufacturer decides to install. XML is old version of cree lights, xm-l2 is new, more efficient and more output emitters.
> 
> Tint is listed as cool white or neutral white, the colors you get on the edges of the light is impossible to know till u receive the light. Cool white emitters go from 1a to 1d tint normally, neutral white (natural light) is 3b-3d or 4c tint normally.
> 
> No way to control what tint you get except to purchase and change the emitters based on the tint you want.


Thanks for your help, so, until i receive the light i dont know how is the type of tint have the light! well...i hope (and pray) it will come bluish because i dont want to ride with 2 lamps with different type of tint!


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## xtreamer91 (Jul 18, 2015)

So, i already receive the Solarstorm X2, but isnt original...is a chinese fake one, with the green board and the LED's in the same board too, with + and - wires only go from 1 side...and side by side with my Fandyfire X2 original the tint is not the same but to have the same power output of the Fandyfire in Low i have to put the Solarstorm in High mode, so, the difference is huge!

Now, i want to buy some lens to try put the light as far as i can, but without compromise the sides of road...wich lens you recomend to me? im confused between 15, 25, 30, 45 or 60º of aperture...wich of them is better to have good relation far vs sides of the road?

if anyone can put one image or example of the lens with the apertures to give me a idea how to buy i really preciate that!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

See this thread I posted over at BLF awhile ago. It needs updated. AND I didn't test the "good" LEDDNA optics. Smaller angle is tighter beam (more throw). I still think you're not going to get much throw from such a weak light.

Optics (TIRs) Comparison Beamshots | BudgetLightForum.com

-Garry


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## xtreamer91 (Jul 18, 2015)

garrybunk said:


> See this thread I posted over at BLF awhile ago. It needs updated. AND I didn't test the "good" LEDDNA optics. Smaller angle is tighter beam (more throw). I still think you're not going to get much throw from such a weak light.
> 
> Optics (TIRs) Comparison Beamshots | BudgetLightForum.com
> 
> -Garry


wow, nice comparison...i sure will buy the 25º degree lens because is the most light trow i like, one thing, are your lens look like this:

10pcs LED Lens 5 8 15 25 30 45 60 90 120 Degree 20mm for 1W 3W 5W High Power LED | eBay

or is different the front of them?

Thank you


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## xtreamer91 (Jul 18, 2015)

garrybunk said:


> See this thread I posted over at BLF awhile ago. It needs updated. AND I didn't test the "good" LEDDNA optics. Smaller angle is tighter beam (more throw). I still think you're not going to get much throw from such a weak light.
> 
> Optics (TIRs) Comparison Beamshots | BudgetLightForum.com
> 
> -Garry


thank you my friend, good work...i really love the 25º degree lens, trow out really far...and i will buy them for sure!


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## xtreamer91 (Jul 18, 2015)

Hi again, sorry for triple post but i dont mess if someone dont reply to it!

Now, i have to ask: i have the FFX2 and i order new led's for it, but i made a mistake than i only get in mind yesterday, i dissasembly my FFX2 and i see my led's is a 16mm and not the 20mm as i think it was...and the heatsink have 16mm than led base get togheter with thermal grass but is a 20mm with upper sides of 2mm in both sides ...

i have to know if i can put the 20mm base led in that but only with contact on the sides of heatsink?!

and if i will have any trouble because i order the star base led's ad not the rounded ones?!

they will heat a lot if the new led's only be in contact with the 2mm sides of heatsink or i can put a lot of thermal grass in center to get it higher and put in contact with the led backplate?

thank you


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

You need to use the correct size led stars. This is why you check what you need before ordering parts. If the emitter PCB does not sit correctly you wont be able to reassemble correctly and thermal path will not do its job. Add a bunch of thermal compound isn't going to fix it. You need to order the correct parts.


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## TroyS600 (Mar 29, 2007)

Yikes, this thread is overwhelming. I have read several pages and now my eyes are wonky.

I think i'd like to try one of these lights but don't know which to choose. So many vendors and so many prices. Is there a go-to reliable source? I'd rather have a good one than the cheapest one. Also, prefer a wider spread light (not spot) and more natural-white color.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

The SolarStorm X2, "real" ones or at least "good" ones, are pretty well long gone. Look at the Nitefighter BT21, a huge step up in quality & performance. If you want a wide spread of light check out the Nitefighter BT40S instead.

-Garry


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## TroyS600 (Mar 29, 2007)

Thank you!


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## TroyS600 (Mar 29, 2007)

It might be really useful if the first post in this topic, or at least one of the first few posts, could be updated with bold red text to say



garrybunk said:


> The SolarStorm X2, "real" ones or at least "good" ones, are pretty well long gone. Look at the Nitefighter BT21, a huge step up in quality & performance. If you want a wide spread of light check out the Nitefighter BT40S instead.
> 
> -Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S024031


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

47mph said:


> The headlight arrived today.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I got a light with a board that looks like this one. I tried measuring the voltage at L+ and L- and it is about 3.4 volt at low. 4.4 on medium and 5.85 on high. Looking on the board it looks like it might be wired in series but hard to tell because I can't seem to see the negative trace. 
Does any one know if this driver is any good for modding? My idea is to add a copper sleeve like someone did previously and change the led to hp-l hi to make a helmet light but not sure if this driver is any good


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Did some probing and the LEDs are wired in series. Is it possible to figure out how much power the driver is putting out by either Looking at the resistors or measuring voltage across one of the sense resistors?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Last I knew they were running at 2 amps.

If we know the current sense resistor value we can tell you the output. Modding them up to 2.5 amps is max safe (anything more risks burning driver up.) but xp-l hi is awesome at 2-2.5A, I dont see a reason to push harder.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yes, if there is LEDA chip with 6 pins then we can calculate current based on sense resistors. It would be good if you post the sharp and clear macro picture of the driver. If needed bent the coil so the elements below could be seen.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Ok here is the best pic I was able to get








R1 is 201
R2 and R3 are both 102
R6 is 164
R7 is 103
R8 is 300
R9 is not used
R10 is 250
R16 on the back is 102
R17 on the back is 164
I think that's it.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

OK, I see it good enough. It looks R10 and R8 are in parallel. You have free space to mount another resistor in R9 slot.

Will edit post with calculation later...

Thanks Tig. Yes the R400 as stated below would be good.

I = 0.25/R

where R is resistance of all resistors in parallel. Resistance is calculated by formula






, 
but it is easier to use PARALLEL RESISTOR CALCULATOR


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Its 1.8A stock

R400 will take it up to 2.5A


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

So put the R400 in the empty R9 spot to get 2.5A?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

pwu_1 said:


> So put the R400 in the empty R9 spot to get 2.5A?


Yes, the size of resistor is 1206.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Thanks for the help guys. I'll report back if I'm successful


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

ok, so the only R400 resistor I can find is this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LWIJQ86/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
which should draw about 2.48 amps according to the calculator.
The next closest one I found is R33 here:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1002/10007371/1615806
This would draw about 2.59 amps according to the calculator.

I'm thinking even though the R400 from amazon is much more exensive, its 1% vs 5% and the current draw is a bit lower
so should be better for me use right?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I get my parts like that from mouser and digikey. Mouser shipping is cheaper than amazon. Make sure to grab more than one as installing them with a regular soldering iron can sometimes damage them (too hot) and the metal contact comes off. If its your first time doing it, its a good idea to have spares. Hell ive damaged one just because space to work was so tight trying to get it set correctly over heated it.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

tigris99 said:


> I get my parts like that from mouser and digikey. Mouser shipping is cheaper than amazon. Make sure to grab more than one as installing them with a regular soldering iron can sometimes damage them (too hot) and the metal contact comes off. If its your first time doing it, its a good idea to have spares. Hell ive damaged one just because space to work was so tight trying to get it set correctly over heated it.


Thanks for the tip on mouser. I think I found the one I need.
Just to double check so I don't order the wrong thing. .4 ohm smd 1206 size resistor is what I need right?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Yeap


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## qdavison (May 10, 2015)

Well I rolled the dice on a pair of ssx2 from eBay for $16 with battery and charger haha!

























I know my test photos are going to be abnormal because they se from my iPhone, and also this is with 2 lights, one helmet one bars...

Control:









Low:









Med:









High:









These are my first bike lights for night riding, all I can say is wow! I can't wait to go for a ride.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

And your missing out on what they can really do. I have a "real one" from gearbest and a fake ssx2 off eBay. I'll never buy a Chinese light off eBay again 

Ps be careful of the cheap battery and charger, they are well known for starting fires and/or leaking the toxic contents of the batteries.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

As far as I can see there are LatticeBright the fake Cree XM-L leds and I would closely inspect battery packs (voltage after full charge and after one day of rest, open one and see if the all cells are connected, ...)


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## qdavison (May 10, 2015)

Thanks for the tips. Will definitely check the voltage. As for opening them up, how are people re wrapping the pack? Just electrical tape, or just putting the cells back in the pouch?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## qdavison (May 10, 2015)

ledoman said:


> As far as I can see there are LatticeBright the fake Cree XM-L leds and I would closely inspect battery packs (voltage after full charge and after one day of rest, open one and see if the all cells are connected, ...)


Fresh off the charger

Pack 1: 8.38v
Pack 2: 8.27v

After 12 hrs

Pack 1: 8.30v
Pack 2: 8.18v


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

This shows somewhat weak cells. Pack 1 is better and it looks balanced, pack 2 looks unbalanced and has worse cells. Qualty cells have very small voltage sag after rest, or even none if the pack was topped.
Maybe you should try to top charge you packs and see then. This means you keep charging for few hours more than needed. Of course under supervision and only if the charger gives out voltage about 8.45V +/- 0.05V

This does not tell anything about capacity, though. I'm using hobby charger to test capacity. If you have some RC hobbist around they might help you.


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## qdavison (May 10, 2015)

ledoman said:


> This shows somewhat weak cells. Pack 1 is better and it looks balanced, pack 2 looks unbalanced and has worse cells. Qualty cells have very small voltage sag after rest, or even none if the pack was topped.
> Maybe you should try to top charge you packs and see then. This means you keep charging for few hours more than needed. Of course under supervision and only if the charger gives out voltage about 8.45V +/- 0.05V
> 
> This does not tell anything about capacity, though. I'm using hobby charger to test capacity. If you have some RC hobbist around they might help you.


Well after 24 hours off the charger they are at

Pack 1: 8.27
Pack 2: 8.17

I just checked and the crapo chargers that came with are putting out 10.25v! I used to have a nice charger from RC days that is now gone, maybe need to pick one of those up again. I'm just beginning night riding, and am happy with the light output of the lights for now, and probably won't have long enough rides for the battery capacity to really effect anything. Im sure upgrading everything is in the future.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Here's a source for an inexpensive li-ion charger (I bought from them over a year ago). Buy a couple since they're cheap.

-Garry


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## h82crash (Dec 24, 2009)

Looks like I just received the same light as qdavison. The plate the emitters are on is aluminum and about 1mm thick. I added some thermal paste and reassembled and it doesn't take long for the housing to warm up. Seems as if heat is transferring well.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

qdavison said:


> Well after 24 hours off the charger they are at
> 
> Pack 1: 8.27
> Pack 2: 8.17
> ...


My advice is to get rid of those 10V chargers right away unless you control charging process! Thankfuly PCM in the battery pack is doing it's job. Some relatively quality hobby chargers can be found at HobbyKing if you are interested. Turnigy Accucell 6 is good enough on lower price end. Of course there are better ones too....


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## rxcrider (Aug 12, 2015)

baker said:


> ...I took off the plastic mount for the helmet light and used my preferred method of 3M Dual Lock. Removing the mount leaves a threaded hole that does not penetrate the body of the light. Perfecto.


Which dual lock pin densities are you using? (250/250 or 250/400) Did you use the adhesive backed stuff on the light side as well or did you get the screw down disk for the light? I was leaning towards trying the 400 pin disk on 250 pin scotch extreme tape from Home Depot, but I haven't had any luck finding the disks in reasonable quarntities and I'm not sure if the clear acrylic adhesive is the best for the job on the helmet side.

Robot Check

Thanks for any pointers you can give


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

rxcrider said:


> Which dual lock pin densities are you using? (250/250 or 250/400) Did you use the adhesive backed stuff on the light side as well or did you get the screw down disk for the light? I was leaning towards trying the 400 pin disk on 250 pin scotch extreme tape from Home Depot, but I haven't had any luck finding the disks in reasonable quarntities and I'm not sure if the clear acrylic adhesive is the best for the job on the helmet side.
> 
> Robot Check
> 
> Thanks for any pointers you can give


I used adhesive backed stuff on both the helmet and light. I don't remember what density and I'm outta town right now, so I can't check.

Sent from my LG-V495 using Tapatalk


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## eldee (Jan 10, 2016)

double


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## eldee (Jan 10, 2016)

Hello! My 9 dollar beauty: Buy SolarStorm X2 2*Cree XM-L2 2200-Lumen Led Bike Light head - RED(Head Lamp Only) , from for $23.50 only in Main Website. Worldwide Fast Free Shipping!









Measured max.current 1A.

Thought about doubling it so paraller another 10ohm to R2? or?
6-pin chip is labelled LEDA.

Battery used is already owned 9,9V hobbyking LiFe.

edit: 1A from battery so about 2A to leds.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

1A from battery, 2A to BOTH leds, so 1A per LED. It's not a 10ohm but 0.100 ohm (R= a decimal). Yes, adding another R100 on top will double your current, but how is the heatsinking? I'm guessing you do not have direct thermal contact to the case and therefore it's already running at the max it can thermally handle. 

I can't even speak to the use of your battery whether or not the driver can handle that overvoltage.

BTW- max current of D1 (SS34 diode)=3A. Same for that A07 FET.

-Garry


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## eldee (Jan 10, 2016)

garrybunk said:


> 1A from battery, 2A to BOTH leds, so 1A per LED. It's not a 10ohm but 0.100 ohm (R= a decimal). Yes, adding another R100 on top will double your current, but how is the heatsinking? I'm guessing you do not have direct thermal contact to the case and therefore it's already running at the max it can thermally handle.
> 
> I can't even speak to the use of your battery whether or not the driver can handle that overvoltage.
> 
> ...


Thanks a lot! Actually stock lightpower is well enough as qdavison stated earlier on this page(at least compared to price). I take night ride at forest and mid power setting is good compromise between power and battery life. Buuut modding is my half life so already ordered replacement when i burn this one








Heat sinking is decent but have to confirm with temperature sensor.
Also after adding resistor I measure current directly to the led not from battery.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

eldee said:


> ......Heat sinking is decent


IMO that is an example of very poor thermal path. Without some mods to the case and emitter plate, I'm feeling sorry for those overheated emitters after you increase the drive current.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

garrybunk said:


> 1A from battery, 2A to BOTH leds, so 1A per LED. It's not a 10ohm but 0.100 ohm (R= a decimal). Yes, adding another R100 on top will double your current, but how is the heatsinking? I'm guessing you do not have direct thermal contact to the case and therefore it's already running at the max it can thermally handle.
> 
> I can't even speak to the use of your battery whether or not the driver can handle that overvoltage.
> 
> BTW- max current of D1 (SS34 diode)=3A. Same for that A07 FET.


Yes, first we should start with battery pack 3S Li-Fe are topped at 3x3.6V = 10.8V which is above tipicaly 8.4V 2S Li-Ions. I'm wondering how your driver stands that voltage, specialy capacitor C2. It might be you haven't tried fully charged yet?

Next LEDA chip has 2.5V fedback voltage so with R100 sense resistor you can get 2.5A to the leds. BTW, we don't know how they are connected, right? Are in parallel or in series.

1A from batteries at 9.9V is aprox 10W or 5W per led. This does not coresponds with calculated 2.5A but might be in line with 1.25A per led + looses. Taking this into account I would say leds are in parallel.

IF and only IF leds are really in parallel then you can add resistor over existing one, but as Garry said there might be probems with other elements. 
In this case I would leave sens resistor R100 and rearange leds PCB to be in series.

So *eldee* can you please inspect how the leds are connected?


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## eldee (Jan 10, 2016)

Yep, a little overvoltage, but take ride with 10,8V, no problems. Leds must be in parallel cos voltage to leds~3V. So losses are 2,5W in circuit?
What happens if leds are in series and I add this resistor? bad things?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yes, you'll burn the leds cause they don't have proper hetsinking at first moment and overcurrent will generate a lot of heat. 

As I've predicted leds are in parallel. Yes of course some power is lost in cabling, connector and circuit. Can't tell exact numbers but can be somewhat.

Hopefuly the leds are geniue Cree or they are their counterfieght LatticeBright? If you can make sharp macto picture of one led we can try to tell.


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## eldee (Jan 10, 2016)

Of course because if they are series then double current trought leds I just calculated this 10W-(2,5A*3V)=2,5W. I quickly looked over leds but there was no labels. Sure they aren't Cree at 9 dollar price tag.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Picture of the leds would be nice so we all can see what can expect for such price.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I bought an ssx2 and x3 off eBay last summer, both had the lattice bright crap in them. So 99% chance his does too. For the cheap price I did it just for the heads/drivers.


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## eldee (Jan 10, 2016)

Vancbiker said:


> IMO that is an example of very poor thermal path. Without some mods to the case and emitter plate, I'm feeling sorry for those overheated emitters after you increase the drive current.


Heatsinking was decent. 
Stock heatsink/case 48 °C at hottest point after 5min, emitter backplate without back cover 59 °C.
After adding silicon paste to the joint of emitter backplate and case: 
5min: case 52 °C backplate 55 °C. 
15 min: case 66°C and backplate 71 °C. 
Done in room temperature with IR-thermometer.
Not yet raised current


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## eldee (Jan 10, 2016)

aaand then I fried my circuit board 
Accidentally make open circuit when measuring led current so be careful when doing that! 
Don't know if better driver boards have protection for that. 
First thought to build myself new CC-CV driver from scratch but don't know if somebode has already found quality driverboard for that? Something like 5A would be nice? 
Or two of these 8.25W 3V~12V 2500mA 5-Mode LED Driver Board - Free Shipping - DealExtreme.

edit. simplest way DC DC CC CV Buck Converter Step Down Power Supply Module 7 32V to 0 8 28V 12A HC | eBay. 
So fully adjustable external source to do some tests. Can fit it to same pack with battery.


----------



## ChILd_ReBoRn (Jul 30, 2015)

I got mine today. I opened it up, and found the red power wire pinched between the housing and the board. I insulated it, and will resolder it if necessary. The charger gives out 8.42/43 V. I also placed some thermal paste between the aluminum LED plate and the housing. The batteries are charging at the moment













































I was told that the light were not cree, but lattice bright. Fine by me, just ask for a refund then....


----------



## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

They are lattice bright, wont get lights that cheap off eBay with cree anymore.


----------



## ChILd_ReBoRn (Jul 30, 2015)

thought as much.... well I already contacted the seller. if I get even a partial refund.. fine by me.


----------



## ChILd_ReBoRn (Jul 30, 2015)

Quick question, what size is the male connector on the lamp? I tried 5,5x2,5mm but it has poor contact. It looks like it should be 5,6mm or something. My local electronic shop has 5,5 and 6,3.

I need a plug to connect my charger to the pack, without using aligator clips on my pack directly. Thank you


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

5.5x2.1mm


----------



## Neogen (Apr 23, 2016)

ChILd_ReBoRn said:


> thought as much.... well I already contacted the seller. if I get even a partial refund.. fine by me.


Did you get refund? Was it ebay or some other place.

BTW: How did these lights do, are they good?

I have received exactly the same piece and thinking what to do


----------



## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Don't buy cheap lights off eBay. Their total crap. Been down this road with far to many lights and many more I've read of others dealing with tons of problems.

Better to spend a little more and get a reputable light from a decent company. Cheap China junk just isn't worth the hassle and risks anymore.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


----------



## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

I wonder, did anybody thought about wireless switch for these flashlights?


----------



## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

NazZaR said:


> I wonder, did anybody thought about wireless switch for these flashlights?


Check out Gemini Duo 1500 if you want a light with a wireless remote switch.


----------



## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

NazZaR said:


> I wonder, did anybody thought about wireless switch for these flashlights?


These are bike lights but yes, we think about such things. We also talk about them and this is why they are just now starting to appear. Wireless remotes demand a more complex emitter driver circuit. Not likely you will see any of the cheaper Chinese lights using them until they become more common place. At the moment, "wireless remotes" are not common place. Maybe in a couple years we might see a cheapie Chinese lamp with wireless remote. When that happens it will likely be a clone of the same duel emitter Gemini Duo that is quite common ( see Kaidomain lamp known as KD-2 )


----------



## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Since this thread is near the top of the forum, this post by ledoman should be reposted here (Originally in the cheap light thread, click on the little arrow to go there).



ledoman said:


> As far Solarstorm X2 goes I can tell KD has decent one with Neutral white XM-L2 3C you won't find elsewhere. Still, thermal paste has to be applied.
> 
> I agree there is not much decent lights to choose from in $20 price range.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Hi guys,

I hope you can help me with my Solarstorm X2.
Heat transfer works well. 
Without moving 50°C on high after 2-3 minutes and while riding on race bicycle...without a question it's pretty cold. 


So far, I've read, learned a lot about modding this awesome cheap light
but I'm not sure how to messure the ampere.  
(I guess it's not possible with a dmm DT830B, very cheap, 6€ with shipping)


The driverboard in this pic is pretty much the same except that blue pcb.


I want to buy some resistors and need your help guys!^^
As you can see Conrad got pretty much everything.
https://www.conrad.de/de/leistungswiderstaende-o0241366.html



The led's are parallel and driven with (maybe) 1 ampere for each led? 


Well, I want to raise the output to 2-2.5 ampere for each led but I'm not sure which resistor will be the best. On this site are twenty 0.1Ohm resistors! 
(Conrad is best electronics seller in Germany!) https://www.conrad.de/de/leistungswiderstaende-o0241366.html?tfo_ATT_PRODSPEC_1677=0,1 Ω

Hope you guys can help me!
btw. thanks to garrybunk and ledoman and pretty much everyone here!
You guys are awesome!!!


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

What are marks on 6 leg chip right to the R100 sense resisor?


----------



## Blue66 (Sep 18, 2016)

Not a big deal - here the setup to measure the current. Should also work without a problem with your device DT-830B.


----------



## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Thanks guys!...:thumbsup:

@ledoman
There is no mark on that chip (blue pcb) .
The green one has a mark on it...(I guess... )


@Blue66
I will see if I can get those adapters on monday in my local town but I don't think so.
If there is any other method to verify the ampere on high modus I will do it! 
Cutting the cable could be an option.^^
But won't do it.


----------



## Blue66 (Sep 18, 2016)

The adapters are available at eBay (Germany) for example - serach for:

DELOCK TEST ADAPTER DC 5,5 x 2,1 mm
or
DELOCK TEST ADAPTER DC 5,5 X 2,5mm


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Since both drivers looks the same what are markings on either of that chip. Try at different angles. 
If you can't see or there is none then can you measure voltage over that R100 resistor when running on high mode. The current to the leds can be calculated. Very likely there is LEDA chip with 0.25V feedback voltage. The other type is used in older MJ-808 drivers. It is 8421 with 0.20 feedback voltage.

If there is LEDA chip then current to the leds is 2.5A or 1.25 per led. ie. 0.25/0.10/2


----------



## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

I got one adapter!  *brain.exe* on 


The other adapter will be "easy". (something with ducttape, caple to SSX2)

But I don't really get it how to connect the cables.
Is that connection configuration O.K.?
btw. I'm a complete noob at electronics.


----------



## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

@ledoman

Tried at different angles but there is no mark on it. 

Are you sure to measure the voltage on that r100 resistor?
(I almost did the same mistake like eldee when messuring the voltage to leds on the driverboard, lights went out. I'm not so sure maybe I did it wrong and hit that resistor below r100.)


----------



## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

That meter should work. Use the 5A setting and put the black lead in the COM port and the red lead in the "5A" port. You then connect the lead "in-line" between the light and the battery pack (choose 1 of the wires to connect the meter "in-line"). 

Ledoman is getting you on the right track for boosting current. 

-Garry


----------



## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

You will only be measuring current draw from the battery. The current through the emitters will be different. How much different depends on driver efficiency and the difference between battery voltage and emitter Vf.


----------



## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

O.K. I understand. Thanks guys!
I'm going to measure the ampere in 1-2 hours. 
Is it also possible to measure voltage or has this to be done with another setup?

I guess it will display 6-7 Volt with a full charged pack, right? (voltage drop...)

Don't want to break anything!


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Jimmy Kester said:


> @ledoman
> 
> Tried at different angles but there is no mark on it.
> 
> ...


Yes I'm shure. Are you shure you had leads on your DMM set to measure voltage not current? If you had set DMM for current then you have bypassed resistance of that R100 instead to measure the voltage.

Another method would be to desolder red wire to the leds and put DMM in between (red DMM wire set for 5A current, black on COM) - red DMM wire connect to the driver (where you desolder) and black to the led (desoldered wire part). That way the electricity would go from driver through your DMM to the leds. Got it?

But first method is better (if you set DMM wires correctly and dialer to 2000mV of course), no need to desolder anything.

Since you have sense resistor R100 (0.100 Ohm) and if there is LEDA chip then I bet you would measure around 250mV.


----------



## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

@ledoman

You now have another fan! 
I have measured 0.03 (low); 0,06 (mid) and 0.10 Volt (high modus) on r100.:cryin: 
Now I'm going to messure the ampere "in-line" like Blue66 and Garry said.
(Need to do some soldering stuff...brb)


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

It is either another chip or I've calculated it wrong. Will think about it at evening


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

I'm done with measuring.
(Now I know that is not possible to measure the voltage in this way)

Stand-by


Low


Mid


High


btw. I guess they are really good cree clones but this light for its price is very good!
Battery pack lasts about 2h on high mode.

Hope you can find a way in modding it ledoman! :thumbsup:
Would be really awesome.


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Jimmy Kester said:


> @ledoman
> 
> You now have another fan!
> I have measured 0.03 (low); 0,06 (mid) and 0.10 Volt (high modus) on r100.:cryin:


I've checked it out. If it was LEDA chip (which is pretty common) and it is known also as QX9920, the the voltage across 0.100 Ohm sense resistor should be 0.25V. There is also reference about this chip at DX forum.
Your driver matches pretty much the chema of this chip so I'm bit puzzled. 
There might be functional copy of it with different characteristis, though. Only real measurment of current to the leds would tell it for shure, but voltage to the leds might also tell something, just not that precise as it chages with temperature.

Since you have measured only 1A on high from the battery pack, but not voltage at same time I can only imagine your battery pack was fully charged and gave out 8V which would be 8W of power. But it might be less.

So at 85% efficiency (which we don't know really) this would be 6.8W or 3.4W per led. Acording to Cree tool for XM-L2 T6 at 85°C the current for 3.4W is 1.15A which is pretty much close to my calculation od 1.25A per led.

If we want to be shure and know all parametes, then measuring current to the leds is the way to go. Otherwise I would just *stack* R500 (0.500 Ohm 1/4W 1206) *over existing* R100 which should increase current to the leds for 20%. 
R400 25%
R330 30% 
R120 55%
R100 100%
I would not go below R330. Even that could be to much - see below.

Keep in mind you have diode SS34 which can hold only 3A and we don't know for A07 IC which might be as low as 2A (coudn't find any real datasheet). There would be no problem if the leds would be connected in series. Then each led would get up to 2.5A without changing sense resistor. In that case heat dissipation should be very good and run on high only while moving.


----------



## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Thanks ledoman! 

How do I measure the voltage to the leds?


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

B+ and B- on the leds PCB or on the driver solder points of the red and black wires that goes to the leds.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

High - ca. 5,67 Volt
Mid - ca. 4,65 Volt
Low - ca. 3,65 Volt

Voltage drops a little bit fast so I did my best with measuring.

The battery pack was fully charged while measuring the ampere.

Used duct tape and a wooden stick.


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Funny, are you shure leds are connected in parallel? Vf of each led is around 3V. The voltage you have measured implays the leds are connected in series. 5,67V / 2 = 2,83V which coresponds to cca. 650mA (at junction temp. Tj= 85°C).

Or you have measured Vin (voltage that comes to the driver from batteries)? But even then, the voltage is to low.


Since you have ability to solder the best way would really be to put your DMM inline from driver to the leds - red wire. Desolder red wire from the driver and solder some small piece of wire (same or higher cross section size ). Then you connect that newly soldered wire to your red DMM wire (over 5A setup) and black DMM wire to desoldered red wire. This way electricity would flow from driver through your DMM to the leds. You should leave original black wire from driver to the leds intact.

Find on google how to measure the current.

Can't help more.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

ledoman said:


> B+ and B- on the leds PCB or on the driver solder points of the red and black wires that goes to the leds.


I just did it like you said and measured on the solder points.


My head is almost exploding^^..please tell me what I did wrong...I'm a noob


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Here is a better picture. (looks kinda weird to me^^)


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

*Now that is better*. Your last picture shows leds are *in series* not in parallel as you stated before! This makes sense and the voltages to the leds are in range where they should be (only bit on low side). This was one point you have done it wrong and misslead me in calculations.

Now I'm really wondering why the leds are driven so poorly. Where is the bottleneck? This also answers your battery pack can run 2 hours on high. Now I'm certain the batteries are crap as expected. Do you have any other brand named battery pack to try - even from your friends?

There are only two things to check now. First about measuring current to leds I've described above, the second is voltage at driver input where battery wires are connected - ie. marks V+, V-.

I would try the last option first. Also measure voltage in off mode.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Stand-by: 8,10 Volt at driver input V+, V- (8,11Volt on the jack for the battery pack)
Low: 8,00 Volt
Mid: 7,90 Volt
High: 7,80 Volt

Battery pack was not full charged. 
Runningtime on high 130min and takes about 225min to charge them with only 0,5 ampere and goes down to 0,05 ampere which is the same power consumption when the charger is on stand-by.

I don't have any 18650 cell and my friends too. 

I also orderd that Solarstorm" 2S2P 8.4V "water resistant" 4 x 18650 battery case that you reviewed but I guess it was a dumb decision....parasitic drain :/

What do you think?

Is it worth all that soldering stuff to messure the ampere between driverboard and led?

I would go for another r100 resistor to get ca. 2 amps but this will burn A07 IC right? I would risk it but could be be a dumb idea^^

Would be so nice if it works so I could change the leds to genuine cree xm-l T6 with 4000-5000kelvin and ofc the cooling method will be something like this:


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Interesting. At fully charged battery input in Off mode should be somewhere 8.35V so battery pack is not fully charged. But it is not to low either. 

Very small voltage drop at Vin on Hi mode coresponds to very low current I've got from Cree tools for voltages you have measured at led side.

What can you do is little testing, but it is tricky. First of all I would make shure I have half empty battery pack (just in case) then I would use tweezers (or similar) and make very fast short across the R100. This should make some burst at led side. If not there is probably damaged A07 IC and adding another resistor won't help. But I'm not electrician, so I might be wrong.

BTW is the same situation on both drivers you have got or it is just on the green one?


----------



## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Yep, battery pack was not fully charged but should be around 8,35 Volt on full charge if I remember correctly. (Update: 8,38 Volt)

Edit: I got an A06 chip on my blue pcb and the green one has A07.

Sorry, for the bad infos.

I understand that "burst thing" but I guess it would kill the leds!
I was lucky to talk to some skilled electronic dude in our local store 
and he told me that I can use some small copper cable as resistor but he also told me that I could kill the leds if the output too high!

Well, I have to pay about 6$ shipping for some 0,03$ resistor which is a totally rip-off.  (payed about 7$ for the SSX2 set + 5$ shipping)

I'm a little bit fed up now. :/ :madman:


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

So I remeasured that r100 resistor and has only 0,5 ohm without connection to the batterypack! (dmm has displayed 00,5 ohm)

That copper cable wired, round thing has also 0,5 ohm.

r100 resistor goes up to 16,7 ohm on low mode!
(dmm was set on 200 ohm)


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

R100 should have 0,1 Ohm. I think your DMM is not that accurate on lower readings.

Copper you used to heatsink is perfect as can be in this light. Specialy if you are going to solder all parts together.

No, burst mode should not kill the leds if it is realy fraction of second. And you have plan to change leds anyway, don't you?

It is hard to read/fillow your posts with constantly editing them.

If you order resistors from China you get a bunch for 2€, but you have to wait. :/

Doesn't price 7€ for SSX2 tells you it is rubish (more or less). You can only get two pure leds for that price. You pay less you get less.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I was going to say, isn't it likely he's got latticebright LED's in that thing? Also - that A07, I believe that's an FET and I believe it's the same as the "2300" found here (limited to 3A), but this needs confirmed. I know I've dealt with the A07 before on a driver.

-Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I might be confusing it with an "A09T" found on the BT40S driver. Anyway, I replaced an A09T with an AO3400 FET which is rated for 5A (much more than needed here). Bought them on Ebay for cheap.

-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

For the price perspective I would say yes it's counterfeight, but from the picture it looks like XM-L2. Sharp macro picture might reveal it more.

About FET, there might be another letter besides A07, at least from pictures can't be seen very clearly. Hope you are right and it is rated for 3A. I just couldn't find any data. One similar was rated to 2A, but even that could be enough if curently there is less than 1A to the leds (which is still anknown and not measured).


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Here are some pictures who are *much to* *bluish! 
**
ONLY* on the pictures!

I would say it's almost _pure white_ in real and really bright on high mode! 
Feels really good while riding with +35 km/h on pure dark roads.

(Unmodded and unmeasured ampere between very, very good fake cree leds and driverboard, I would say. More updates comin' soon, good night !)

Here we go!

Low'


Mid


High


Here is my favorit bicycle lighting spot for about 17 years now!
(has changed over the years :/)

Low


Mid


High


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Found the datesheet of that *"A06"* fet on my blue driverboard!

SMD Code a06 Datenblatt, SMD - ecadata.de

Here is the datasheet! 
http://www.panjit.com.tw/pdf/LV MOSFET/PJA3406.pdf

Is that the right datasheet?
btw. I don't have the green driverboard (A07).

Found some cheap resistors here:
SMD Widerstand 1206 1% 0,25W Chip-Resistor RoHS verschiedene Werte und Menge | eBay

A friend of mine got a Voltcraft dmm which is much better than mine.
Will remeasure that r100 resistor soon.


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yes it might be the right one for A06. 

Resistors you linked are nice, just all wrong values, none below 10 Ohms, but you need 0,500 Ohm or even lower.

I'm also using Voltcraft, so thumbs up, much better for shure  Just be shure there is no other path around or in parallel to that resistor where the electricity might flow. This would spoil results.


----------



## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Well, I guess I don't need to measure the ampere between leds and driverboard, yet!

Would be useless to have two genuie Cree leds (15$) laying around if the driverboard can't cope the 2 ampere.

The A06 fet should be fine with 2A for each led (maybe).

The only way seems to get more output if I stack another resistor on r100!

Yeah, you might be right with spoiled results of the resistor also remeasuring might be useless.^^... but will do it anway just to get sure.

Will use some strong pc cooling fans for testing.
btw. I know a lot about cooling stuff etc.. 
(I'm a pc watercooling expert).

Hope, I can find some cheap resistors.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH GUYS!
Now I know much more how that thing works! :smilewinkgrin::thumbsup:


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Except we don't know the exact current to the leds which would determine resistor to solder over existing one. It looks you are avoiding to do that last step. You would need to use solder iron in either case. 

PS. I wan't to see it solved so you can continue on your own.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

O.K. ledoman! 
I will measure the ampere between driverboard and leds tonight.
(this will be really hard to do :/)

Ahhhh...damn sh*t I'm doing it now^^


----------



## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Well, its was kinda easy to do..^^:thumbsup:

Standby


Low = 0,25 ampere


Mid = 0,49 ampere


High = 0,8 ampere


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

High = 0,8A
Mid = 0,49A
Low = 0,25A

I'm still stoked about the output (really bright on high mode).
Would be mind blowing on 2A!


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

That somewhat coresponds with my calaculation based on voltage you have measured. I have got about 0.65A. 

So I would try first with R100 on top of existing one. Your DMM and tool wires are pretty thin and long so the real current is a bit higher. If you want it more accurate you should use thicker and shorter wires (= less resistance). Until then when you get your new resistors you might improve your DMM setup to.

Hope I helped somewhat and you've learned enough to keep going on your own. Shurely report us how it went out.


----------



## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

ledoman said:


> Hope I helped somewhat and you've learned enough to keep going on your own. Shurely report us how it went out.


Dude, you are like god^^ hehe...

What do you think ledoman, another R100 on top will raise the output to 1,6A? 

That would be great!

Hopefully I get the soldering part done which is the hardest part for me.
(Will do some soldering training too and will take about two weeks to get some resistors)


----------



## Staypuft1652 (Oct 8, 2016)

Ledoman is super helpful from what I've seen the short amount of time I've been here.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Yes indeed! but now :/ the driverboard is dead I would say.
Did some burst thing with some small copper cable too long...

If I connect the battery pack with the SSX2 then the leds say for a fraction of a sec. "hello and goodbye dumbass". :/

grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

That was my mistake! 

WTF!!!!

I did many fast reconnections between batterypack and SSX2 and the I guess the A06 Fet "exploded" with stinky regards! Looks like "burned" copper.

Standby led is working again but light does not turn up = dead.


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Maybe it is even better and you'll change it. Not shure but it might be it was bottleneck anyway. See thread about BT40s an Garrys last post. There is a source for new FET. Very cheap, but need to wait. You may think of changing diode SS34 to SS54 if there is enough room to place one.


----------



## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Yep, you`re right! 
There was maybe a bottleneck by that A06 fet.
I did it in low-mode and the dmm did go up to only 0.26 ampere and ofc the light was a little bit brighter.

I don't now what I'm doing now.
Maybe I will buy that SSX2: 
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024033....l-White-3C-4-Mode-2000-Lumens-Bike-Light-Blue

There is also a AGM X2 (clone like Nestling etc.) aviable.
Didn't found any pictures of the driverboard, yet.
https://www.amazon.de/AGM-5000LM-Fahrradlampe-bicycle-Batteriepack-schwarz/dp/B00RBGG8XY

Thanks for all your input guys, especially ledoman and mtbr! :thumbsup:


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I still have one of those KD SSx2 if you would need help.

And of course change that FET on old one. I would buy them from eBay. Search for mosfet A09t.


----------



## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Found some cheap fet (1,62€ incl. shipping, china stuff)
5X 5Pcs Mosfet Transistor Field Effect N-Channel Ao3400 A09t A01t Sot-23 Ic Di H | eBay

Well, this is going to be "crazy".
Soldering such fet....but there is no way back...ahhhhhrgh^^

Don't like it to throw it into the trash can anyway.
Hope I can make it work again (next year due to the loooooong shipping).


----------



## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

With all the work involved, I'd just buy the KD X2 and be done with it. Heck, just buy the Yinding which is the better light.

-Garry


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

How much is the output current for each led Garry (unmodded, KD X2)?

Which one do you have? Neutral White 3C?

Will order some new fet and other stuff for soldering fun etc.. 1,62€ for five new fet's won't hurt.

We don't get the Yinding in Germany and have to pay a lot of tax. 
Good ol' Germany is nowadays really ****ed up regarding such things.

btw. I've seen some awesome pictures of bicycle lights.
Might be one of yours!  Freakin' awesome!


----------



## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Jimmy Kester said:


> How much is the output current for each led Garry (unmodded, KD X2)?
> 
> Which one do you have? Neutral White 3C?


I don't own a KD SSX2. Ledoman has one and perhaps he can speak up regarding output (I searched and couldn't find anything).



Jimmy Kester said:


> btw. I've seen some awesome pictures of bicycle lights.
> Might be one of yours!  Freakin' awesome!


That looks like it's my custom modded HD-016. That's a 5B1 tint you see there.

-Garry


----------



## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Will measure input from battery pack later on. I have KS SSX2 3C (ie. NW)

JK, since you have some skills about cooling you may also take a look 
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...umens-bicycle-light-picture-heavy-940595.html
You may start at back of the thread and read few posts and then jump to 1st page. This might be better light for you (based on your skills), but it needs to be copper modded. You may even find out better heatsinking solution than I did. Would love to see that.


----------



## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Hmm, that "Digital Regulated 2200mA Current Output" sound delicious to me...
also for modding! 
but...I really LOVE that style of the SSX2 and will be kinda hard to change.

If the Neutral SSX2 has enough output then it will be fine.
Even with 0,8 ampere for each led is "almost" like drivin' a car.

Found another SOT-23 fet (faster shipping times):

TSM2314CX Datasheet | DatasheetLib.com

TSM2312CX Datasheet | DatasheetLib.com

ledoman, could I replace them?

Another question...Can I use this charger to verify if the led is still workin'?
(AC/DC; Output 2,8 Volt; 1,2 ampere)


Will think about better heatsinking solution...


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I'm not expert on electronics, I just know few basic things learned looking around. All those datasheets are of limited use for me. I can read it is 20V and can stand 4.9A (@4.5V) continious work. And SOT23 is probably correct design for this type of device. That's all.

About charger. First check if the Voltage specifications are correct (use your DMM). If they are, you can use 2,8V source to test led for short time. Be shure to use correct polarization (ie. + and - side). To learn more about this type of leds read: http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C...-Modules/XLamp/Data-and-Binning/XLampXML2.pdf specialy Forward voltage curve on page 6.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Alright! I'm going to order that fet next month.
Charger seems to be like crap. Output is 7,11 Volt. :/

Will try it with an AA battery in series.

From what I've seen about the KD2 and you're heatsinking method..
I would say...it's already fine if you use Arctic MX 4 thermal paste which is the best for such things 'coz of its durability! 

For PC Cooling and extreme overclocking it's the wrong thermal paste, even for watercooling if you want to get the BEST results.

Beside that, many thermal paste are simply bad and they have a short durability which 90% don't know. 

Also liquid metal paste!!!  

There are A LOT OF wrong test results about thermal paste which are totally wrong measured.

Most people even don't know how to apply thermal paste correctly.
So be aware of such "company"!


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## Blue66 (Sep 18, 2016)

Jimmy Kester said:


> We don't get the Yinding in Germany and have to pay a lot of tax.
> Good ol' Germany is nowadays really ****ed up regarding such things.


For taxes it's not quite correct - for commercial mailings from abroad to Germany you only have to pay import taxes for an invoice amount exceeding 26,30 € (including shipping costs etc.). Actually 22,- € but import taxes below threshold of 5 ,- € are not levied by German customs due to administrative expenses (calculation example => Invoice 26,30 € * 19% = 4,997 €).
You get the "Yinding YD-2XU2" (only light head with neutral white LED w/o battery pack & accessories) at Gearbest (link below) for 23,51 € = no import taxes when you can use "free shipping" option or shipping costs are less than 2,79 €. But delivery time is another story.

Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp ( Neutral White )-25.96 Online Shopping| GearBest.com


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

@Blue66
Ah understand...thank you! :thumbsup:

I will stick to the SSX2 which fits my preferences! 
(like it a lot...the body is just great for passive cooling...)



ledoman said:


> Will measure input from battery pack later on. I have KS SSX2 3C (ie. NW)


Would be nice if you can tell us about the output and driverboard.
Some picture would be great, ledoman! :thumbsup:


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Woohoo! Leds are still workin'! 
(Tried with 4x AA batteries in series, can't wait to get that so-23 fet to make it work again)


@ledoman
Please post some pictures of your KS SSX2 3C (ie. NW) + ampere on high mode.
Would be interesting!


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

KD SSX2 NW from outer perspective is not any different than most of it's kind so no need to take pictures. Besides this, it is probably the only one with Neutral White 3C geniue XM-L2 leds.

Driver is similar constructed like many others with LEDA chip. There are two current sense resistors (R300 and R250) in parallel and A09t FET.
Resistors together has resistance 0.136 Ohm which results in 1.83A to leds which are in series. It could be easily moded to get bit higher current.

I've measured values at battery side:
8.36V 0.02A Off
8.25V 0.36A Low
8.08V 0.87A Mid
7.90V 1.42A Hi

In reality it is a bit more because there is some more resistance in additional connector and measuring equipment.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Thanks buddy! 

Here we go again! Time to resurrect my "dead" driverboard.
The soldering part will be "easy". lol  
First, I need to get that solder tip in shape.

I'm using the TSM3404CX fet and will upgrade that r100 resistor with another one on top: TSM3404CX Datasheet | DatasheetLib.com

So, it has no PWM function so that strobe mode will not work anymore.
We will see...


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

MOSFET has nothing to do with PWM functioning. PWM is the way to make modes lower than full state (ie. HI mode). Strobe mode is just slow switching led on and off. Lower modes are achieved by fast switching on and off at some frequency and pulse time length. Eyes see this as lower output regardless each pulse is done with 100% power. It is time length of on/off pulses that defines % of full power that eyes are seeing.

Keep informing us how it goes.... 

PS. Verly likely your solder iron is pretty powerful so be quick when soldering those tiny elements. Don't hold your tip there to long. Just in case.....


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Yo,  I guess the driver board is dead.
Last try with another fet.

Update:
Game over! :sad:

Soldering was not that difficult.
Even the first "try" was almost perfect I would say.

if someone is interested in 5x r100 resistor, 1x Tsm 3404cx fet 
just send me a pm.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

OMG!

The driver board is still alive I would say!
I tried to measure the voltage and the light turned on!
There is something wrong with the - connection dot on the pcb.

Any help will be appreciated!

Alright! 

So, I just connected the r100 resistor with the - pin on the pcb and the light does turn on!!! 

Mabye it has something to do with my dmm?

I'm not sure if I' m going to solder a little copper cable between r100 and the minus cable to the leds. Hmm?

Ledoman, what do think about that one?

*Update 2:*

I've used a small cable and it works!!! 
I'm so happy  AND its seems like the output is higher now.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Wooooooooooooooohoooooooooooooooooo! :yesnod:

LOL!  
Muahahahahhaha 

2,3 Ampere. BAM! :madmax:
SSX2 is back! Yes baby yes! 
(picture comin' soon)


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Nice to hear your light is working again. Will comment again when I see closeup pictures.
So you have only changed mosfet and add some wire, no resistor mod. 2,3A from the battery?


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Muhahaha! 
I just soldered my new fet on it and connected the - pin that goes to the leds with the r100 resistor. Period! Any questions! Muahhahaha

I'm so happy man! 
Well, I'm going to solder an on/off button between the cable and will change the led's and and and... 

Oh, :/ I hope the voltage will be not so high...more updates soon.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Battery pack had ca. 8,10V. 
According to the Cree datasheet it will be fine.
Maximum is 3,5Volt.

6,71Volt x 2,34Ampere = ca. 16 Watt!!!
Woohoo! I can't believe it!


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Can't see from your picture very well (I would prefer sharp macro picture) new situation on the driver. I'm assuming you have bypassed some elements and make it direct drive. Does Lo and Mid modes still works?

16W is pretty high and you can expect the light will get quite hot. Leds won't last long if not heatsinked very well.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

As you can see there is a soldering connection between the - pin and the fet.

The first fet was soldered almost perfect but nothing happended.
So, I went mental and now I'm happy and have *EXACTLY* what I want. 

The new on/off switch button will be really good on the handlebar! 

Regarding heat transfer and temperature I already know "everything".
That's why I'm using water for pc cooling to save 20-30Watt.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I expect he went direct drive and we'll soon hear he has burned something up again.

-Garry


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

I don't think so! I had different reading's with different length of cable.
Mine is about 12 cm long and I've measured more than 8 Volt on the cable that comes from the battery pack. 

Anyway, the leds are in its specification and I wanted 2 - 2,5 ampere.

Do you know anything about "electromigration"?
I've read that a schottky with 3-5 ampere rating does not age till 40 ampere.
They have even used a microscope for that. 

Well, schottky update is useless I would say.
Proof me that I'm wrong, Garry! 

I'm sure it will work!


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Sorry in advance for a harsh opinion.....

That is pretty much butchered. I'm thinking along the same lines as garrybunk and ledoman about being in direct drive. 

Go to Goodwill and buy some old electronic junk for cheap. Tear it apart and practice soldering on junk PCBs and wiring before trying to mod something you want to work properly.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Nope, YOU guys are wrong!
Well, the led will take what they need to work (Volt+Ampere) and they are working in their specification. PERIOD.
Plain and simple. 

btw. I'm running the SSX2 with two pc cooling fans for about 15min now.

Is there any electronic dude here who is SKILLED?

blabla...and I know it will be difficult regarding cooling and so on.

I'm done.

Have fun with your bicycle lights! 

Thanks to ledoman! 

Update: Hmm, why is the SSX2 still workin? Hmm, who knows? Or are they workin' in specification? Electromigration? o.0 pff I don't care. 

Update2: Running time is now about 40-45min.

btw. You guys should learn to read and you sound like arrogant ****** who can't read and have no clue about *electronics*! You guys are so funny. LOL!
:thumbsup:

Now, please leave the classroom and do your homework! haha


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

For the ones who can read! 
http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C...Lamp Application Notes/XLampPulsedCurrent.pdf


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Jimmy Kester said:


> ......Is there any electronic dude here who is SKILLED?


Based on the last couple pictures, there isn't. 

Do your low and middle modes still work? A properly repaired driver with the current sense resistor altered to modify the drive current would still have the modes.

Direct drive works in many cases. I've done direct drive while testing LED and optic reflector combinations. Heck, even some flashlights use direct drive. They rely on the inability of the battery to supply current beyond the LEDs capacity. Some lights even use voltage drop across the thin gauge power cable to prevent the LEDs from burning out.

It's cool that you are trying to mod and repair your light. Many here have been there and done that and learned a bit along the way. You seem to understand some of the electrical and electronic aspects of using LEDs. Getting some experience working with tools like soldering irons and the soldering process is still my advice.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Vancbiker said:


> Based on the last couple pictures, there isn't.
> 
> Do your low and middle modes still work?


Yes and no. Show me a perfect soldering job of an sot 23 fet.
Enough said!

I'm not going to try the "mode button"! 
I don't need it anyway 'cos I got a modded Cateye HL 500 ii G.

I just wanted a more powerful light for dark roads.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

No one is claiming your running "out of spec". Heck, many people run LED's direct drive and "out of spec", myself included. We just don't think what you've done there is correct and think you'll eventually have another failure. If not, well great. One thing I'd suggest is to setup your cooling to simulate a 5 to 7mph airflow and test on a fully charged battery pack. Right now your pack is low and you have voltage sag saving your behind. Maybe 2.5A is all your light can draw with that Chinese cell pack and thin wiring. And aren't these still Lattice Bright LED's you have in there? Those Cree datasheets won't apply to those.

-Garry


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

I won't try any further tests, yet.

I've used pretty strong pc cooling fans and the side with the copper fitting is much warmer than other side.

btw. I don't wanna sound like "cool - rude" or somethin' like that...
I really like you guys...  Cool forum - cool people! :thumbsup:

I need a break till next week! 
(will buy some copper fittings etc.. *That BEAST is damn hot now*  )

btw. and now for the 45 time, yes lattice bright - unknown.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

IMHO if you try the mode button to switch other modes and prove they do still work, you clear out every concern that the light is in direct drive. Not doing so might give a confusion to others that follow your steps ending with unexpected results at the end of the day.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

If I try the mode button and if this kills the led or driverboard...I'm going to explode! 

And now again for the 476 time...I going to solder an on/off button -> mounted on the handlebar for an easy usage.

Do you guys comprehend that?
And nobody can tell me if this will work or not, so please s***.

(btw. I'm a german guy with bad english skills)


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Well guys, I got it! 

*1.* For duty cycles between 51-100%, do not exceed 100% of the maximum rated current;
*2.* For duty cycles between 10-50%, do not exceed more than 200% of the maximum rated current;
*3. *For duty cycles less than 10%, do not exceed more than 300% of the

maximum rated current.

^^
http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C...Lamp Application Notes/XLampPulsedCurrent.pdf

*4.* However, exceeding the maximum operating temperature specification,
which is typically a 150*°C junction temperature, can cause permanent and/or catastrophic damage to XLamp LEDs, so care must be
taken to operate LEDs below this limit.

*5. *A rough estimate of approximately 5-10 inch² of heat sink surface area per watt of heat can be used for a first-order estimate of heatsink size.
http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED%20Components%20and%20Modules/XLamp/XLamp%20Application%20Notes/XLampThermalManagement.pdf

Can't wait to change the leds soon.
The modding part will be the BEST. :madmax:

*Update:*

Yo! I'm going to use a copper extension mounted to the handlebar with heat sinks on it.

I call that clever.  muahahhaha :lol:

SSX2 is now "cooler" then anything else. 
There you go! :thumbsup:

More updates soon!


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Oh my god!

I'm going crazy now!

I'm going to use a heat pipe in combination with a copper plate!So, the SSX2 heat will be tranfered to my bicycle.

I could also tell you some really revolutionary pc water cooling methods, but I won't.

Where is my Oscar now?!  :lol:

Have fun kids!  Hope you guys dig it! :thumbsup:

Copyrighty goes to myself!

If you try "to sell" this idea make sure you give at least 20%...!


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Some interesting stuff....

Those Zalman heat sinks can be soldered or you can use Arctic Silver Alumina (Thermal adhesive).

Yo, and I'm going to take some beamshots, tonight. 
Ambient temperature is about 0°C - °32F! Friggin' cold. ^^


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Wally is going nuts with his new on/off button! :madmax:


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Yo!

I went for a ride with my new "daylight bringer".

My camera can't cope temperatures below 0°C - 32°F. 
(Sorry, no beamshots, yet!)

Well, the leds are now direct driven by the battery pack.
I've measured about 2,65 ampere and ca. 6,9 volt on a fully charged pack.

The body of the SSX2 is cold while riding with 25km/h - 15mph.
Without moving the body of the SSX2 is not getting hot after 1-2min.
(Led temperature is unknown, SSX2 body had about 37°C - 45°C)

With better cooling modifications like copper emitter, copper fittings, heatsinks and maybe a heatpipe construction connected to the handlebar will make the SSX2 a killer bicycle light, DAYLIGHT BRINGER for sure!

I'm stoked and it is maybe even too much! 

Well, we have really, really strong fog with a mix of snow here outside of our town, 
so I wouldn't recommand to use such strong light at such weather!

You can blind yourself or I got problem with my eyes. 
I'm not sure maybe it's just the "white - cool white" tint by the leds.

Happy modding guys!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Jimmy Kester said:


> Well, the leds are now direct driven by the battery . . .
> 
> The body of the SSX2 is cold while riding with 25km/h - 15mph.
> Without moving the body of the SSX2 is not getting hot after 1-2min.
> (Led temperature is unknown)


That body should definitely be getting hot after a couple of minutes, even at 2+ amps. "Body getting hot" is a sign that heat is transferring to the outside of the case.

-Garry


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Nope! 

We have temperatures below 0°C, which is friggin' cold!

Sure, the leds could burn themself without moving at such temperature.

Well, at room temperature the body gets much warmer with two strong pc cooling fans.

Different ambient temperatures, different results! 

Try it!


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## Staypuft1652 (Oct 8, 2016)

Jimmy Kester said:


> Yo!
> 
> I went for a ride with my new "daylight bringer".
> 
> ...


I like how you have your light mounted. If you have a big enough o-ring you can take stem off and put o-ring around it to hold light over stem also.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Hmm, you guys should think about...: 

"Why is the battery indicator led (still) not burned?!"

Let's do some homework! 

Make sure to take my advice in cooling methods.
(Once again, I'm a pc watercooling EXPERT. PERIOD.)

Happy modding!


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Staypuft1652 said:


> I like how you have your light mounted. If you have a big enough o-ring you can take stem off and put o-ring around it to hold light over stem also.


I know...nice that you mentioned it! 

Rock Bros extension.

ROCKBROS Fahrrad Verlängert Klammer Montieren Halter Lenker für Lampe CS243 | eBay


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Test drive with my "naked" SSX2.

That *BEAST* has *more *than 1500 lumen.  :yesnod:

The Cateye HL-500 II-G is modded with a 12 Volt smd led; 0,1 ampere; ~110 lumen; nicely warm white.


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## Staypuft1652 (Oct 8, 2016)

Jimmy Kester said:


> I know...nice that you mentioned it!
> 
> Rock Bros extension.
> 
> ROCKBROS Fahrrad Verlängert Klammer Montieren Halter Lenker für Lampe CS243 | eBay


That one looks sturdier than most of the extensions I've seen, other than the dual ones but they are not compatible with my bars without alot of shims.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Unfortunately yes! ;( Use your imagination what you desire...

Tomorrow, I'm going to glue the heat sinks, copper fittings etc. and will see what is going to happen...

Maybe, I'm going nuts and will do the "killer upgrade" with heatpipes and a copper plate 30x3cm or something like that... 

Heat transfer to the bicycle is the way to go!  :ihih:ut::yesnod::lol:


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

As a PC WC expert you may know that you need quite flat mating surfaces, some thermal compound and a firm connection to transfer the heat effectively. There are a lot of connections on bikes that really do move when you are riding, e.g.: the end of the stem where is meets the handlebar, etc etc. The mating of the surfaces is really poor too. So consider these also ;-)


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

That is basic knowledge!

You know what!?

*Almost EVERY CPU, GPU water cooler IS NOT flat.* 

They just claim it is laser cut and other stupid **** which they don't do.

They just want your money, nothing more.

Well, that's why we are going crazy in lapping the **** out of a CPU heatspreader, water cooler etc..

Work in progress! 
(Grinding with a skateboard is fun, to grind those copper fittings is no fun and takes about 1-2 hour to get it in 17mm shape)

Happy modding guys! :thumbsup:


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Circa *1500 lumen. *:smilewinkgrin:rft::ciappa::ihih:

Have fun "kinder"!

:band:


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## MadBlackHatter (Mar 26, 2012)

Just got Solarstorm x2 the other day but having a problem. When i connect the battery to the light the back leds light up and I can turn the light on but the light will only stay on for 30 seconds to a minute then shut down. Battery has to then be connected to the charger for a few min before it will power the light again. Green led on the charger at all times whether the battery is connected or not. Anyone deal with this before?

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I'd say you have a short somewhere that is tripping the battery protection circuit. You'll need to unscrew the back plate of the lighthead and check the power lead connectors . Does it stay on until the light is moved around (i.e. bare wires might be moving & then touching each other) or does it shut off even if sitting still? If still I'd say it shouldn't be bare wires, but possibly component related. Maybe open it up, get a good closeup picture and post it.

-Garry


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Try what Garry says and you may try to power the light from a DC power source with enough power (volts and amps). IF the light behaves the same way as it did on the battery then you have a problem with the light. If not, then battery is the problem.



MadBlackHatter said:


> Just got Solarstorm x2 the other day but having a problem. When i connect the battery to the light the back leds light up and I can turn the light on but the light will only stay on for 30 seconds to a minute then shut down. Battery has to then be connected to the charger for a few min before it will power the light again. Green led on the charger at all times whether the battery is connected or not. Anyone deal with this before?
> 
> Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk


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## MadBlackHatter (Mar 26, 2012)

It will turn off even when completely still. I'll post some pics tonight when i get home. It ran good the first time for about 2 hours switching from midium and high but now it's doing this reset issue. Really hoping it's just the charger

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

If you have a cheap battery pack, then it might be out of balance and protection trips in. You can rule this out when you power the light with a DC power source.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Tipical cheapo battery problem I would say. Measurments of battery and charger voltages would tell it for shure. I would say one set of cells are fully charged while the other is are about fully discharged. This is situation where protection circuit won't let to charge the pack (one set full charged) and when connected to the light it cuts off cause another set of cells has voltage to low.

MadBlackHatter, do you have any chance to measure voltages with any voltmeter (DMM)? Charger should give out about 8.40V unloaded. I can predict battery pack comes somewhere 5-7V after disconecting off the charger. If so, buy quality battery pack and you'll be good for another 5 years.


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Possibly the charger is bad as well. Maybe find a different charger and see if that works. I mention the charger b/c the light worked the first time and now has an issue after needing to charge the battery. Just a thought.

MB


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## MadBlackHatter (Mar 26, 2012)

Only have the one charger supplied with the light but it looks good putting out 8.4v. The battery on the other hand is only doing 6.2v so I'm guessing this is the unbalanced issue mentioned earlier. Is it possible too fix or should I not waste my time and just get a new battery pack?

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

You can rebalance them, but you need to crack open the battery pack and have a li-ion 4.2v charger. I posted pics in a thread somewhere where I used a piece of dowel to adapt to the charger bay slot. Maybe I can find the pic. 

-Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Here's the pic:








-Garry


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## MadBlackHatter (Mar 26, 2012)

Thanks garry! Unfortunately I don't have a charger to do this with, or at least to my limited electrical knowledge lol. I think I'll bite the bullet and just get a new battery pack. What's a good replacement battery that can still use the charger, or even a 4xAA pack that would have the right plug for the light?

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

If you had looked for it you would found:
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/battery-thread-2016-beyond-997165.html

Best price performance, but you have to wait quite some time for it:
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...ck-kaidomain-com-reasonable-price-995303.html


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

^ +1. I'd get a proper pack of panasonic cells. You can get them balanced, but the problem is the different capacity of each cell. They easily unbalance again.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Yep, and it is also good to refresh the batteries in a good battery charger.


My copper fitting idea works pretty well.
Everything fits perfect and is going to be great.

The new genuine CREE XM-L2 T6 on copper plate fits very good in the 18-16mm copper fitting. 

I'll get it done tomorrow.  Yihaa!


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Here is another idea.

It is possible to connect two SSX2 bodies with a copper fitting like that (20-18mm fitting):


Then throw some Cree MK-R (max. 1500lumen) in it, heatsinks on top and side....

Voilà...this will be a killer light for sure.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Yo, I'm almost done! 

Things you need:

- a lot of time
- copper fittings (20-18mm + 18mm)
- a file to grind that 18mm copper fitting down to ca. 17mm
- boring machine
- hacksaw
- thermal paste

Happy modding! :thumbsup:


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

eldee said:


> aaand then I fried my circuit board
> Accidentally make open circuit when measuring led current so be careful when doing that!
> Don't know if better driver boards have protection for that.




Well, you have fried your LEDs.

Did the same mistake (on the blue pcb w/o + - markings) and have fried my "Lattice Bright" leds, yesterday.
I just wanted to know which cable is plus,minus.
(Didn't need them anyway...)

Actually, you can measure the voltage for very short time (less than a second).

*I STRONGLY RECOMMAND TO USE A 6V BULB FOR TESTING!!!
*
If this happens, don't be sad!
You can easily make you own "direct driven" bicycle light. 
(Only with a better cooling!!!)

Just use a thin cable to reduce the ampere and voltage.
(I've used a cable from a pc cooling fan)

Now I'm discharging my battery pack to 90% and will start again with a pair of genuie Cree xml2.

btw...it's so much fun to test different cable lengths. ^^

**** happens, lesson learned.

Maybe, I'm going to update some pictures with different results (cable lengths).


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Boy, oh boy!

I finally got it! 





Very interesting...

The ampere do not raise so heat transfer works well, I guess.
Tonight, I'm FINALLY going to see that leds in action.
(Cree xml2 4000-4300k)

Is there anybody with longtime experience regarding DD (direct drive) of leds?
(I have measured ca. 6,6volts, due voltage drop, battery pack was half empty)


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

I have some DD experience in a simple bench testing environment. I don't use it on anything for real use though as I prefer to have adjustable brightness on my lights and constant output during the runtime.

Essentially you are striking a balance between the ability of the power source (battery) to supply power, the resistance of the circuit between the power source and the LEDs, and the LED's voltage/current curve. As with anything that works while the balance is close enough, change one of the items and the balance is disturbed enough, something quits working. 

The change with the most potential to disrupt the operation of a DD system is the power supply. If you get your system working with a typical low cost Chinese 2S2P battery pack and later switch to a different 2S2P pack made with higher discharge rate cells your light will burn out. Same thing happens if you go to a 2S3 or 4P pack in an attempt to get longer runtimes. The additional cells in parallel give the pack more current capacity. The voltage drop is less and the power capability of the LEDs is exceeded. 

A resistor in series with the LEDs can minimize or eliminate the risk of burning them up if you change your power source. The power cord between the battery and the light and the connectors used create resistance in the circuit. Using a 24AWG cable creates a noticeable voltage drop when trying supply 3A. The excess energy is converted to heat in either scenario so efficiency is quite low. 

DD systems have varying light output during the runtime. Very bright at first and quickly dropping down to a "plateau" where they run for a while. Then starting to dim as the battery's ability to supply power drops. Other than dimming, there is no warning that the light is about to go out when the low voltage battery protection circuit activates.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! 

Man, I'm exhausted...

The last 4 days feels like one week without sleep.

Maybe, I'm going to try to decrease the voltage with a bigger cable. 

I could puke now.  but this will be my bike light FOREVER....hope so... ;( !!!


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Well, I'm finally done and everything works.

- Heat transfer is much better now
- Running time is about one hour 
(that unknown leds had the same running time and performed pretty good!!!)

Thanks a bunch to everyone who helped me to get it done...

Especially: Vancbiker and led-tech.de !!!

Cheers! 

Genuine Cree XML2 T6 4000-4300k, modded SSX2, ca. 1,5 - 1,8 ampere)


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)




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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

"Quick 'n' dirty cooling solution"

]


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

If it was me I would have left the valley clear for air flow. No need for a thermal transfer point there anyway. Instead of direct to air you added another medium to slow the transfer of heat away from the emitters before reaching open air. The thermal paste (I'm actually guessing you used epoxy) is plenty for transfer to that monster heat sink. Great idea there if your cranking this things output way up. Keep that driver from burning out easily.

I think I missed it, what did you crank the emitters up to?

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

It's not going to win beauty contest, but actualy should be much better than stock solution. It may stand direct drive without big issues, at least when moving.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

tigris99 said:


> If it was me I would have left the valley clear for air flow. No need for a thermal transfer point there anyway. Instead of direct to air you added another medium to slow the transfer of heat away from the emitters before reaching open air. The thermal paste (I'm actually guessing you used epoxy) is plenty for transfer to that monster heat sink. Great idea there if your cranking this things output way up. Keep that driver from burning out easily.





tigris99 said:


> I think I missed it, what did you crank the emitters up to?
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


lmao...You know nothing about heat transfer.

Why is my Wallie much cooler with this *HEAT SINK* on top?

1+1=3 ? 

I've NEVER read such comment in more than 10 years!

With a fully charged pack they get ca. 2,5A.

This works just great and is much cooler now! lol 

Ofc, I've didn't used epoxid. 
Some people mix it with thermal paste.




ledoman said:


> It's not going to win beauty contest, but actualy should be much better than stock solution. It may stand direct drive without big issues, at least when moving.





ledoman said:


>




Hey, hey, hey, hey don't **** with my little girl^^
She is growing and growing and will become a real star! 

The copper fittings are still unlapped and I've used not the very best thermal paste.

With Arctic MX 4 and lapped copper fittings plus extended HEAT SINKS , will be COOL as **** even without moving.

It's all about heat transfer and thermalpaste.

Well, I will buy another cheap chinese battery pack and be done with it.
In total, I payed less than 50€.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Is the silicone being used to hold the heatsink to the body, or is your thermal paste an adhesive too?

It is a lot of extra work to just run 2.5A. Since the XML can handle more, you could try a battery pack with a higher discharge rating to really pump out some light. I run XMLs and XPLs at 3.5A with no issues.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Vancbiker said:


> Is the silicone being used to hold the heatsink to the body, or is your thermal paste an adhesive too?


Well, it is just a quick 'n' dirty solution.
The better option would be Arctic MX 4 and the heat sink (screwed) on top. 

I just applied silicone around the heat sink and thermal paste on the lapped side.
It is by far not the best heat transfer and I don't know if it's tight, pressure and so on.



Vancbiker said:


> It is a lot of extra work to just run 2.5A. Since the XML can handle more, you could try a battery pack with a higher discharge rating to really pump out some light. I run XMLs and XPLs at 3.5A with no issues.


Wow, that sounds nice^^.

I'm unsure if I'm going to get steady ampere output or not.

So far, I just did 2 and one drunken/sleep test drive^^.

I guess another cheap battery pack would be more than enough.

Two hours on a race bike are more than enough for me...


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Jimmy Kester said:


> lmao...You know nothing about heat transfer.
> 
> Why is my Wallie much cooler with this *HEAT SINK* on top?
> 
> ...


Not to start a debate but I do actually, quite a lot. I was just saying "if it was me I would have skipped that part". Not degrading your work, simply saying you put in extra effort you didn't have to right now. But attacking me like that when you mixed thermal paste into standard epoxy instead of using thermal epoxy....... Anything helps draw heat but let's please just not go there.

Ya I had a learning curve a long while ago but I have put countless hours into learning from others here, cpf and blf (not counting just standard research). That and I just played with crap for giggles to see if something small had an real effect (which it didn't but looked cool).

Standard silicone though thermally conductive is less than that of thermal compound and insulates due to its lower thermal transfer. The idea with bike lights is to get the heat from the LEDs to the outside air as fast as possible. Minimal resistance from led to outer housing.

Anyway, all that work you've done, crank that baby up. A yinding runs at 2.5A, you can crank that light up well further, 3.5A with that set up you have going. Make sure one insanely bright little light!

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

For sure man. 

Ahh..you know just nothing about heat transfer. PERIOD.

I already told you that I'm a MAD water cooling freak (EXPERT).

...

Stay tuned guys and happy modding! :thumbsup:

btw. this will be cool as ****.... = MAXIMUM lumen efficiency...

Have fun with your bicycle lights!


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)




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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Nvm just realized this I think is the same person who picks fights under different user names in different subs as soon as you try to help or do anything constructive on the matter at hand. Seems I can't even be active over here now without this guy attacking me for no reason.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

LOL


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Thanks for confirming that, much appreciated.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

No problemo.
I'll tell you later how that heat sink works at 3A.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I am rather curious what your beef is with me. Seem to stalk me literally anywhere I post (under your various user names). Kind of childish isn't it? Especially being the fact others say the same thing I do and don't recieve the same response...

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Jimmy Kester said:


> ......


How do you solder the pieces together with water in there? Seems that the water will boil long before the metal is hot enough to solder. If you were able to get it hot enough to solder before all the water boiled out, the steam pressure would keep blowing solder out of the joint. I'm pretty sure that's not how heat pipes are made.

You've added more than enough heatsinking to that SSX2 for bike use. A couple square inches of surface are per Watt of power is all that is needed to keep a light cool at low speed. One square inch per Watt works if you keep up ~6-8 mph. Of course ambient temps affect those numbers greatly, but I've found them to work well with the 40-65 degree F temps of most of my night riding.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Wow.... Lol

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

As a teacher...I'm telling you...DO YOUR HOMEWORK...tzzz

You're playing with your smartphone while I'm doing creative science...

*NOOB. *:madman:


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Jimmy Kester said:


> As a teacher...I'm telling you...DO YOUR HOMEWORK...tzzz
> 
> You're playing with your smartphone while I'm doing creative science...
> 
> *NOOB. *:madman:


I think we are getting a bit off topic now, with Jimmy being quite rude. We all appreciate your expertise in water cooling. If you explain to us why what you have done is better than what Tig says would be a better educative reading instead of attacking someone. Tig is famous over here - see his reputation. While yours is quite low if I were you I'd be more polite. My interest in reading this thread is slowly disappearing and others may have the same feeling.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

MK96 said:


> I think we are getting a bit off topic now, with Jimmy being quite rude. We all appreciate your expertise in water cooling. If you explain to us why what you have done is better than what Tig says would be a better educative reading instead of attacking someone. Tig is famous over here - see his reputation. While yours is quite low if I were you I'd be more polite. My interest in reading this thread is slowly disappearing and others may have the same feeling.


To be honest, me too.
That's why I'm in no forums anymore.

People come to me tell me that an extended *HEAT SINK* won't work.

Sure, 1+1= 3

No comment anymore.
I just don't get it....How can somebody that ..... .

Btw. I've seen many people with 30000 comments and so on, who just talking ********.

I'm out.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Jimmy Kester said:


> To be honest, me too.
> That's why I'm in no forums anymore.
> ...


And again if I were you I'd really think about what you've wrote. A cube can have sides with different colors.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

To be honest again...you're intelligence hurts a lot.

If you want hot leds and low efficiency...blablabla

This was my last comment. PERIOD.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Just FYI, read my previous posts, nowhere did I say anything about anything "not working".

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

I'm pity you.



tigris99 said:


> Just FYI, read my previous posts, nowhere
> did I say anything about anything "not working".





tigris99 said:


> If it was me I would have left the valley clear for air flow. No need for a thermal transfer point there anyway. Instead of direct to air you added another medium to slow the transfer of heat away from the emitters before reaching open air. The thermal paste (I'm actually guessing you used epoxy) is plenty for transfer to that monster heat sink. Great idea there if your cranking this things output way up. Keep that driver from burning out easily.
> 
> I think I missed it, what did you crank the emitters up to?





tigris99 said:


> But attacking me like that when you mixed thermal paste into standard epoxy instead of using thermal epoxy....... Anything helps draw heat but let's please just not go there.


I'm sure you know just nothing about thermal paste, heat transfer and THE ALREADY WORKING SSX2.

You're the only one who is asking such "stupid" questions.

Do you know how a heat sink works? Difference with a lapped one?
Do you ever have any thermal paste (long time) results?
How much pc hardware did you overclocked?

I'm a nice, chilled guy, mostly...
and there are NO stupid questions. 

Next time, think twice before asking for already responded questions.


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## Jimmy Kester (Nov 19, 2016)

Oh, I got "rude warning" msg for responding to stupid questions.

I'm in a wrong forum AGAIN.

pff...NOOBS


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## Klurejr (Oct 13, 2006)

Thank you for the reports. Jimmy has been warned, if he keeps insulting and personally attacking users please report it again.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Could some posts here get deleted to keep it informative and educational and not personal? ;-)


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Select those posts and ask moderators. They should be able to clear them, at least.

Should we also start new thread about SSX2? This one is pretty loooong.


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

Today I got my SolarStorm X2.
I want to give it higher power.
Which components do I need?
What can be max power to me the Led does not burn off?
Genuine SolarStorm X2 from Kaidomain.
Is that the original driver or a reproduction?


























































The 2 silver pills have a thickness of 21.5cm and a height of 14.5cm.
On the Leds are Insulation Gaskets for XML Leds.

Furthermore, I would like to change the optics, but do not know if it makes sense. I thought of the Leddna synonymous for the Yinding fit?
Are there perhaps comparative photos with original optics and the lenses Leddna with different degrees?
I already take care of the heat transfer with copper sleeves and Copper Backplates.
And new heat transfer paste MX4.
Thanks


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Looks like R8 and R9 are your sense resistors, but I don't know what the sense voltage is (do you see an LEDA chip?). I also don't see an FET; is it under the coil? Someone with more electronics expertise is going to have to chime in on what current-limiting components are on that driver. How many amps does it draw off a full charged pack right now? I have no idea if it's an "original driver" - doubt it though.

Do LEDDNA optics fit the X2? I don't remember anyone putting them in one. I think most people like the throwy beam pattern the stock reflectors give.

Also, it looks like there is no solid wall behind the emitters (I believe that is the back of the aluminum pcb we see in that last pic. I wouldn't push these LEDs hard without trying to get a better thermal path. Try pressing in some copper pipe caps -see this BLF thread showing that very mod. EDIT - you updated your post after I posted this.

-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

As I can see there are two sense resistors R250 and R350 which in parallel acts as one 0.146 Ohm. LEDA chips has tipicaly 0.25V feedback voltage so:

0.25 / 0.146 = 1.71A to the leds

Can't recall if leds are connected in seriesor in parallel, but I would say in series. 
Adding R500 would raise the curent to 2.21A, R400 to 2.34A or R330 to 2.47A. I would not go to more than 2.3A beacuse of rather poor thermal transfer and relative small housing. Adding thermal compound on leds PCB is mandatory. Better yet what Garry suggested, adding some copper behind the led pcb.

Diode SS34 and fet A09T should be sufficient, AFAIK.

Once I've managed to replace reflectors with LED-DNA optics, but it was 2 years ago and I don't know which iteration of SSX2 I've got at that time. It was pure luck I think.
If you have optics at hand you should try it out.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I see gecco added pics showing underneath of coil.

Ledoman - it's an R250 and *R300*, so 0.136 ohms so 0.25/0.136 = 1.84A to the leds. Adding an R500 would give 2.33A, an R400 gives 2.46A, an R330 gives 2.59A.

-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Opps, thanks Garry, Don't know how I missed it. So R500 is the one I would use in this case.


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## BLACK1E (Feb 14, 2011)

Hi, I have some problem with my x2. It's exactly the same type like on the Geccco's photos. Been using it for a couple of months. Yesterday I recharged batts, plugged in, green diodes shined really low and after few second turned off. Now it's dead.
Batteries are fully charged, wires are ok. I think some resistor burned, but it's just an idea and I can't figure it out. Any ideas?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

BLACK1E said:


> Hi, I have some problem with my x2. It's exactly the same type like on the Geccco's photos. Been using it for a couple of months. Yesterday I recharged batts, plugged in, green diodes shined really low and after few second turned off. Now it's dead.
> Batteries are fully charged, wires are ok. I think some resistor burned, but it's just an idea and I can't figure it out. Any ideas?


Any chance you can post some close-up pics of yours (like above)? Does sound like the something burned up.

Honestly, you might be better off buying a new one, though quality varies so greatly on these and most of the X2's now are really poor quality. Perhaps an "upgrade" to a KD BL2S is in order? Upgrades to neutral white (there is a cool white version too). IIRC it doesn't have great heatsinking, but it's an "ok" light. (ledoman can chime in.) At the very least it's a pretty consistent light and not the Chinese lottery of X2's out there now.

OH - I almost forgot! KD does sell a "genuine" X2 which I believe ledoman has experience with too. I think it's on par with the BL2S in that it's an "ok" build.

I'm assuming you don't need a new battery pack. I guess it wouldn't hurt for you to check your battery pack that it's at or near 8.4v when the charger turns green. (Be careful not to cause a short while measuring!) It could be that the pack is way out of balance.

-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Using DMM to measure voltages would help to start. First check the battery then voltage at driver input.


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## BLACK1E (Feb 14, 2011)

Thanks for the helpful information. Nothing looks burned up, but I will take a photo eventually while measuring. Actually it's not a bad idea to buy something from KD. I tried to register yesterday, but no activation mail arrived yet.

I have 2x 4.2V battery packs and only one 8.4V. So what do you think about the single diode BL108B? I don't race at night, just want some reliable light for 2-4h ride in winter.

Now I don't have a DMM with me, so I will try measure the batty pack and x2 later.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

It's more expensive than a new X2. I would stay away from 4.2v lights. Very difficult to pull power from a 4.2v pack thought the thin power cables. 

-Garry


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## BLACK1E (Feb 14, 2011)

ledoman said:


> Using DMM to measure voltages would help to start. First check the battery then voltage at driver input.


SO I finally measured. When batteries are plugged in there is 8.25V at driver input, but green diodes don't light. In the few seconds I did the measure, the area aroud U2 got quite hot.









Blackie


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Hmmm, R2 looks very strange. Can you check voltage over it at different modes even it does not look you have any modes.
Could be just soldered on oposite side. I would desloder it and check if still has some resistance about 0.10 - 0.25 Ohm. The other side should be marked somehow. If OK solder it back with markings up.

Can't see any markings on 6pin chip right to the R2, but very likely it is LEDA (QX9920).

Next thing to check are D1 and D3. If you found out U2 area is hot then D3 is suspicious. Can you get some markings out of it? Don't know what diode should be there, but I would look for pictures (you might find it here) of similar designed drivers to find out. I'm not EE 

Hope it helps somewhat.

PS. D3 might be Zener diode marked W8 like -> those .


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## d07a2010 (Jan 15, 2018)

Could someone tell me how to finally got my solar storm modded with ease steps,thx in advance


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Its not something easy, requires skills with soldering and proper tools to do it. Plus there is a lot of different mods, youll need to be more clear on what exactly you want to do.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## d07a2010 (Jan 15, 2018)

I need a way by get it extreme widely power light and better cooling rate
Also mine doesn't last 1 hour at all on low grade
So, video or clearily steps so that could mod it
Thanks for your reply😀


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Your run time is a battery problem.

Trying to crank it up a lot and keep it cool, not such a good idea. Need to get a bigger light. Your in egypt, the mods we do we dont deal with that kind of heat. You need a bigger light to work with like ss x3

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## d07a2010 (Jan 15, 2018)

RAKC Ind said:


> Your run time is a battery problem.
> 
> Trying to crank it up a lot and keep it cool, not such a good idea. Need to get a bigger light. Your in egypt, the mods we do we dont deal with that kind of heat. You need a bigger light to work with like ss x3
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


What crank it up mean?,sorry
Also I'm from Egypt but had bought it from eBay 4years ago and original battery was damaged after 6 months and imported a new package but this time got 8 cells 19600 mah don't remember exactly, first few years was running perfectly about 5 hours on low grade but this days running out off quickly so I search google to any suggestions as so I can mod it

Sent from my Infinix X509 using Tapatalk


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Cant mod a battery pack. And they dont last forever. As well as there is no way an 8 cell battery pack has more than half the capacity it says it does. Not even possible. And getting a few years is pretty good.

Simply time to replace it is all.

Crank it up was referring to what I understand as you want to increase its output

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## Brams (Nov 26, 2019)

Hi 
Im looking for some info about the solarstorm with x2 LEDs, this seems to be the right place for answers!

Im working on a project where i want to use some old bike front lights, but change the internal to modern LEDs.
Since i want two separate lights but on the same batterypack the Solarstorm seemed to be a good lamp to use for an easy remake.

But, I can see that some of the lamps have two separate LEDs, like this one.







and some have just one unit with both LEDs on it like this.








To make this as easy as possible I want the first one with separate units. Then I can just extend the cord and keep everything else as it is.

So, please help.
How do I make sure to get the right one?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Actually I don't understand what are you saying. OK I'm not native English....

Very likely all SS X2 leds are conected in series, it is just the way how it's done. Either with 4 wires or led MPCPB (connection between leds on board instead 2 wires). So you always have red wire(+) - led - "black to red" - led - black(-) or "black to red" is done on PCB.

Maybe is just Y power chord what are you looking for. Something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-Power-1...tter-5-5x-2-1mm-Adapter-For-CCTV/111842213310


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## Brams (Nov 26, 2019)

ledoman said:


> Actually I don't understand what are you saying. OK I'm not native English....
> 
> Very likely all SS X2 leds are conected in series, it is just the way how it's done. Either with 4 wires or led MPCPB (connection between leds on board instead 2 wires). So you always have red wire(+) - led - "black to red" - led - black(-) or "black to red" is done on PCB.
> 
> Maybe is just Y power chord what are you looking for. Something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-Power-1...tter-5-5x-2-1mm-Adapter-For-CCTV/111842213310


Ok, =)
My english isnt the best, and I get that my post might be a bit confusing.

The difference between these two examples is that one is connected with a board, and the other with cords. 
The later is much more easy for me. Since i can just cut the cords and extend them. Thats why i want to buy that one.

The cord you are linking on Ebay could work but then i need 2 lamps. 
the space in the old lamp hood is very tiny, thats why i only want the LED and the reflector inside the hood. And keep the rest in a separate box.

better explained =/?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

OK. I see, you don't own the light yet. 

Back to your question: "How do I make sure to get the right one?" 

You can't be shure. All I can tell is that lights with separate leds were on first batches we could buy, and newer were all in one piece. Very likely you'll get later. There is so much clones out there you never know what you'll get. I've seen at least 8 different drivers (electronics) for those lights. 

The solution might be if you buy leds on stars (PCB) and driver separtely. Then you can place things wherever you want.

It might help if you explain and make photo where you want to place all this stuff. It is also possible to buy reflectors of different sizes, so it depends what setup you need to make.


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## Brams (Nov 26, 2019)

No, I dont have the light yet.

It just seemed easy to take a finished product and put it inside the hood from the vintage lamp.

Since this is a commuter bike i dont really care that much how bright the light is. I just want 2 lights that you can charge. This is more for the looks then for seeing good =)


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Well, you can always replace led PCB with separate ones. There is a lot of them to buy with diferent sizes and can better suit your needs. I'm just giving example of XM-L2 led: https://www.aliexpress.com/af/cree-xml2-led-on-pcb.html?d=y&origin=n&SearchText=cree+xml2+led+on+pcb

So you basicaly connect driver from SS X2 to those leds in series. Depending on setup (two or one lamps) you need 4 or 2 wires from driver.

We can help you more when you'll actualy have lamps. Don't forget on cooling leds with some fins or at least thermal transfer to metal housing. Don't use plastic!


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