# Chain Lube?



## PoorCyclist (Sep 2, 2010)

I am lost when shopping for chain lubrication,
Boeshield? ProGold? White lighting?

What's a good product to apply after every ride or 2?


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## JackRabbitSlims (Sep 9, 2010)

*Great Lube!!*

Hey PoorCyclist.

I'm sorta new to MTB riding, but I have been using Rock"N"Roll (blue) for years on my road bike. Have also used on my MTB and seems to be "The Goods"

http://http://www.rocklube.com/


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

Fundamentally, I believe there are only a few choices:

a) Oil-based lubes with no solvent mixed in, such as Finish Line Wet Lube and Chain-L.

b) Teflon-based lubes, which are mixed with solvent. Rock-n-Roll Gold is probably a good example here.

c) Wax-based lubes like White Lightening.

Lubes that are some form of actual oil tend to last longer for me, and tend to be more forgiving in that they don't suddenly just "run out" on me while I'm riding the bike.

With teflon-based lubes, I need to lube more often and the chain can go suddenly squeaky if I fail to lube on schedule.

My experience with White-lightening is that one or two bad mud puddles can wash it all off, leaving me with a squeaky chain. I keep an assortment of teflon and oil-based lubes in my drawer, but I long ago threw my supply of White Lightening in the trash.

IMHO, you just have to dive in and try a few lubes. They don't cost much. Buy a couple or three different types, and give them a try.


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## cncwhiz (Sep 8, 2010)

You know it goes to show just how much people really know about bicycle maintenance..:lol:

I obviously don't know much of anything..For the years that I have spent doing ameteur riding, I have used everything from WD40 to motor oil.. 

The other day I picked up some type of teflon lubricant. I can't rmeember the name of it but it was in a red bottle near the white lightening stuff. I put some on my chain of the bike I am currently riding and it looks good for now.


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## Gasp4Air (Jun 5, 2009)

First of all, it's not a big deal what you use - just use something. That being said, I, like many, use a "wet" oil based lube for wet and messy conditions (think winter, spring), and a wax or teflon "dry" lube for dryer conditions. Oil will last longer and resist washing off, but dust and dirt stick to it. Dry lubes have less resistance to washing off, but there's no oily residue on the chain for dust and dirt to stick to. Stays much cleaner. So whatever you choose, apply and wipe every few rides and your chain will love you back with smoother, quieter shifting.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

Gasp4Air said:


> First of all, it's not a big deal what you use - just use something.


Now there's some advice I think we can all agree upon. I can't tell you how many friend- and neighbor-bikes I see that never get lubed except for when said friends and neighbors ask me to fix or adjust something.


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## chode (Sep 16, 2010)

we swear by this stuff in the motorcycle community and it's relatively cheap. you can find it at lowes. http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Performance-Lubricants-Multi-Use-Fluoropolymer/dp/B000GL19TY


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## manabiker (Jul 18, 2010)

Finish Line new Wax Lube, has anyone tried this? it just came out in September.

http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/kry-tech.htm


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## floydlippencott (Sep 4, 2010)

Bio-degradable chainsaw bar and chain oil cut with Canola oil . Be good to the environment .


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## wave180 (May 19, 2010)

I currently use Epic Ride from White Lighting, so far so good.


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## Clones123 (Apr 29, 2010)

Squirt Long Lasting Dry Lube (LLDL). I've tried lots of different chain lubes and this one is my favorite. Never before in my life has my chain remained completely silent throughout every ride. Okay, I've only been using it for a month now personally but I don't see myself switching anytime soon. A fair number of people with a lot more experience than I have settled on this product too...

*Poll: Do you like dry or wet chain lube?*
http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7265978&postcount=14


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## 247 (Apr 23, 2009)

I ride in Pennsylvania/Delaware/Maryland--where chains get extremely Grimy... Pedro's IceWax Lube keeps buildup off my chain better than anything..


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

the trails I ride are sandy, so I pretty much stick with white lighting since its wax, otherwise if I use oil, my chain gets coated in sand


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## manabiker (Jul 18, 2010)

I've been using White Lighting too, but I want to try the new Finish Line Wax that just came out September 2010.. it sounds better but I'll have to try it for myself...

http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/kry-tech.htm


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## jonw9 (Jun 29, 2009)

I started with aerosol Finish Line "Dry" lube with teflon. I found that to be more like black chain paint that never dries. I think "dry" on the label is some sort of joke.

Then went to ProLink, which I like quite well on my road bike, but still tended to collect sand on my MTB.

On my SS MTB, I am now using Squirt Lube. It is a water based wax. I have not been using it long, but it seems to be working well. It stays dry, no ring tattoo on my calf, and no sand collecting. Of course, applying it in the rain won't work, but once dry holds up fine. You need to remove all oil/grease from the chain before applying, as it will break down the lube.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

floydlippencott said:


> Bio-degradable chainsaw bar and chain oil cut with Canola oil . Be good to the environment .


This , believe that it is courtesy of Mtnbiker72 .


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## valleyscum (Aug 29, 2010)

I use Clean ride from White Lightning. no problems that I can see

Valleyscum
Chatsworth,CA
Fuji Nevada 1.0


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## [email protected] (Oct 17, 2009)

chode said:


> we swear by this stuff in the motorcycle community and it's relatively cheap. you can find it at lowes. http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Performance-Lubricants-Multi-Use-Fluoropolymer/dp/B000GL19TY


Thanks! Borrowed some of this stuff last year and liked it. I lost the brand name and info.


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## m85476585 (Jun 7, 2007)

The old finish line dry lube is pretty bad- I don't recommend it. It doesn't even last one ride before the chain makes noise. I recently switched to Boeshield, which ends up mostly dry a few hours after you put it on, and I like it. It holds up for a few rides before the chain starts getting too noisy. I also recently bought some White Lightning Clean Ride (dry), and it has worked well so far, but it's too early to really judge it. This stuff is really waxy compared to Boeshield, and it flakes off so it's self-cleaning.

I tried tri-flow on my commuter bike, but I don't like how much black greasy stuff it makes on the chain. It seems like no matter how well I clean the chain, there is always more black stuff. I'm trying White Lightning right now on that one too, so I'll see how it holds up.

I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Boeshield- it works really well.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I've been using White Lightning on my mountain bikes for years. It's true that it doesn't stay on that well on a wet day, but I'd rather have my lube flush out than get mixed with dirt and make grinding paste.

I also don't lubricate my chain every ride. I do give it a quick wipe with a dry rag, but I only relube if it's starting to squeak. Especially with a straight oil-based lube, it's easy to overdo it.


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## JeffRock (Aug 23, 2010)

I used to make my own chain lube for my dirt bike. wd-40, and transmission fluid.
Other than i got a tube of pedros synthetic lube from 10 years ago.


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## UEDan (Apr 11, 2010)

Gasp4Air said:


> First of all, it's not a big deal what you use - just use something


Hell yeah, I have half bottles of Honda ATF-Z1 all over my place, works wonders. I just lube every other ride, no noise and still the original chain, just stretched to hell.


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## Clones123 (Apr 29, 2010)

Anyone have a comparison to make regarding White Lightning Clean Ride *vs* Finish Line Wax (Ceramic or KryTech) *vs* Squirt LLDL ?

I've liked Squirt LLDL so far but I don't think it has the sophisticated anti-wear additives that some other wax lubes do (and at a price less than Squirt).


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## BigSharks (Oct 4, 2009)

Apparently some hate here for Finish Line Dry- I've used it for a year or so (lubing every few rides, depending) and have never had an issue or a noise.


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## djriddle (Oct 6, 2008)

Lube depends on apllication. Wet conditions call for wet lubes, dry for dry. Waxes are a good medium IMO. Pedros Ice Wax is my favorite. If you follow the directions, it can be used to clean too. I don't apply it every ride though, just once it starts to squeek. 
Watch out for mixing up your lubes without cleaning your chain. A Teflon lube will get into the pores of the metal and will cause lubes applied after it to shed more quickly and a wet lube will keep applications of dry and wax lubes from bonding properly with the chain surfaces.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

UEDan said:


> Hell yeah, I have half bottles of Honda ATF-Z1 all over my place, works wonders. I just lube every other ride, no noise and still the original chain, just stretched to hell.


that's doesn't exactly come across as a great sales pitch for using that as lube. Your chain is stretched because of wear on the bushings and pins inside, something lube is supposed to help prevent. Maybe the lube had nothing to do with that, just saying that it doesn't sound good at first impression


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## markf (Jan 17, 2007)

lube won't really help stretch. it'll help grinding and wear ot some extent but stretch is a different thing.

to the op: there's no one correct lube as this thread as pointed out. it depends on location, conditions, and how attentive you will be with it. just use something made for bikes, and not wd40


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

markf said:


> lube won't really help stretch. it'll help grinding and wear ot some extent but stretch is a different thing.


Grinding and wear is what causes the elongation of the chain. Please read this explanation by Sheldon


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## nachomc (Apr 26, 2006)

I use Dumonde. Have tried others like Rock n Roll, triflow, etc. Love me some Dumonde.


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## [email protected] (Oct 17, 2009)

nachomc said:


> I use Dumonde. Have tried others like Rock n Roll, triflow, etc. Love me some Dumonde.


Me too ... go figure


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## nachomc (Apr 26, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> Me too ... go figure


Are you green, yellow or do you mix em?

I mixed for a bit then realized it was a pain in the butt and just stuck with green


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## rkj__ (Feb 29, 2004)

Here's what I use:

Dry and/or short rides: Prolink
Medium rides: Triflow
Long and/or wet rides: Finishline WET

Clean chain before lubing, don't over-apply!


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## [email protected] (Oct 17, 2009)

nachomc said:


> Are you green, yellow or do you mix em?
> 
> I mixed for a bit then realized it was a pain in the butt and just stuck with green


Green. My particular neurosis is that I meticulously apply one drop to each pin/rol. It doesn't take very long at all. I reapply every other ride ... primarily becaue it is dusty here, and I l.ike it to be very quiet.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Green. My particular neurosis is that I meticulously apply one drop to each pin/rol. It doesn't take very long at all. I reapply every other ride ... primarily becaue it is dusty here, and I l.ike it to be very quiet.


haha, I've been thinking of posting a poll about that. I've been running Dumonde with success for a while, and I started applying it the same way not long after I switched


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## nachomc (Apr 26, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> Green. My particular neurosis is that I meticulously apply one drop to each pin/rol. It doesn't take very long at all. I reapply every other ride ... primarily becaue it is dusty here, and I l.ike it to be very quiet.


I do exactly the same thing.


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## jonw9 (Jun 29, 2009)

Clones123 said:


> Anyone have a comparison to make regarding White Lightning Clean Ride *vs* Finish Line Wax (Ceramic or KryTech) *vs* Squirt LLDL ?
> 
> I've liked Squirt LLDL so far but I don't think it has the sophisticated anti-wear additives that some other wax lubes do (and at a price less than Squirt).


Well, I don't have actual data, other than the Squirt is water based, and is supposed to contain more wax than oil based. I have had the bottle around for several months, and it has never seperated, so I think that is good.

Every couple rides I use a scraper to clean the wax off of cogs. I have no idea how it helps with shifting, as I run on my SS.

I have used only sqiuirt on this chain since new. I opened the box, degreased and applied squirt. I have no idea how many miles, since I really don't track that.


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## Gondo (Jun 2, 2004)

The key is to keep a clean chain. Invest in a cheap plastic chain cleaner with the brushes and a gallon of chain cleaner. This will save you the hassle of having to remove your chain to clean it. 

As for lube the key is to apply it properly. A drop on each link as your passing it over a cog or chainring. Then run the chain around backwards to distribute the lube and wipe off the excess. You want the lube in the cahin pivots, not on the outside collecting dirt. 

In a nutshell you'll want a wet lube for wet/muddy conditions and a dry/wax lube for dry dusty conditions. Try one at a time and see how you like it. Personally I can't really tell the difference between the different brands. I keep a clean chain and drivetrain and apply whatever lube I currently have. I've never had a problem or noisy chain in over 15 years.


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## Pelagic (Oct 5, 2010)

As Gondo said, carefully applied Mobil 1 works for me...


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## Clones123 (Apr 29, 2010)

Gondo said:


> Invest in a cheap plastic chain cleaner with the brushes and a gallon of chain cleaner. This will save you the hassle of having to remove your chain to clean it.


I installed an inexpensive KMC/Shimano master link making it super easy ro remove my chain any time. This saves me the hassle of having to use a cheap plastic chain cleaner with the brushes and a gallon of chain cleaner!


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## Pelagic (Oct 5, 2010)

Now that's a great tip. I'm going to pick up 2 tomorrow because they're small and easy to carry, and you never know! Thanks for that.


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## helix66 (Jul 15, 2010)

I was in a shop the other day and asked the tech guy about wax based lubes and he was down on them, said that they cake up. 
I already have some finish line dry, I'll wait until that's gone to try something else and just installed a new chain and apparently that's better and good for a while.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I was congratulating myself earlier today on having a spare link in my wedge pack. First time I've ever broken a correctly-installed chain.


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## jonw9 (Jun 29, 2009)

helix66 said:


> I was in a shop the other day and asked the tech guy about wax based lubes and he was down on them, said that they cake up.
> I already have some finish line dry, I'll wait until that's gone to try something else and just installed a new chain and apparently that's better and good for a while.


Well, I guess wax "cakes up" in the fact that it dries around the links. Convenient that it is self-shedding and your chain basically cleans itself. Plus it is dry, so sand doesn't really stick to it, grinding down your drive train.

I did find a use for my Finish Line "Dry" spray, the chain on the garage door opener was sticking so it got a good application of the stuff! :thumbsup:


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I stopped using White Lightning on my road bike because it really did build up over time. Got pretty nasty. For some reason, bikes I ride in mud and dirt don't have that issue...


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## helix66 (Jul 15, 2010)

After it flies off then what happens, is it essentially dry? 
Maybe wax your garage chain too see if it performs better!
I'll try the wax but after I'm done with the FLdry, I think this is all hair splitting and personal fetish.


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

I have used the old Finish Line Dry Lube over the past year and liked it pretty good. I just received the Rock'n'Roll Blue dry lube and so far I like it a lot.

-Brett


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## Kingsnake (Sep 27, 2010)

chode said:


> we swear by this stuff in the motorcycle community and it's relatively cheap. you can find it at lowes. http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Performance-Lubricants-Multi-Use-Fluoropolymer/dp/B000GL19TY


 This stuff works really well in guns too


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## Pelagic (Oct 5, 2010)

C'mon, someone say some chain lube makes their bike faster! btw, cartridges work better in guns for me... :thumbsup:


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## Kingsnake (Sep 27, 2010)

Pelagic said:


> btw, cartridges work better in guns for me... :thumbsup:


 Not without the lube


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## Gondo (Jun 2, 2004)

I llike the dry wax lube cause it keeps the drivetrain cleaner. I find the wet lube collects the dirt. But that's jsut in my particular style of riding. In your case a wet lube may be better. But I find the wax lube drys in the tip of the nizzle so you have to suezze to clear the tip and the lube come shooting out. It's a pain. They've probably corrected that problem though by now. But I only use the wax lube on the chain. On my pivots, derailleurs, etc.. I use wet. I reserved the dry only for the chain.


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## ProjectDan35 (Jul 19, 2010)

Prolink Gold :thumbsup:


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## Kingsnake (Sep 27, 2010)

I have been using maxima chain wax
Way I see it this stuff is designed for dirtbikes and streetbike which put alot more heat and friction on a chain than a bicycle. It also doesnt was off in muddy water.


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## ProjectDan35 (Jul 19, 2010)

Kingsnake said:


> I have been using maxima chain wax
> Way I see it this stuff is designed for dirtbikes and streetbike which put alot more heat and friction on a chain than a bicycle. It also doesnt was off in muddy water.


Too thick, tacky, which means, gunky mess = junk for mtn bikes.


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## Clones123 (Apr 29, 2010)

ProjectDan35 said:


> Too thick, tacky, which means, gunky mess = junk for mtn bikes.


+1

That stuff was great back in the day when I needed a thick, sticky lube that wouldn't fling off at high speed all over my street-bike wheels. I wouldn't dream of putting that goo on my bicycle though (probably not on a dirt-bike either). Part of the appeal of wax-based _bicycle chain_ lubes is them being non-sticky and flaking off when the coating does get dirty.


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## ProjectDan35 (Jul 19, 2010)

I use to use PJ1 black label for my dirtbikes. Stuff was very tacky, and the chain stayed surprisingly clean, and it lasted for ever!


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## Kingsnake (Sep 27, 2010)

I havent had any of the issues mentioned above. Im not putting it on super thick though. and it defiantly doesnt hold dirt


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## Pelagic (Oct 5, 2010)

Kinda wondering if they're thinking of the regular Maxima chain lube. I don't remember the chain wax being sticky at all, but I rode Glamis/Buttercup/Gordon's/Ocotillo/Superstition and sand rubs just about everything off. I might have some in the garage still, I'll have to check!


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## SlikRick (Sep 14, 2010)

Or if you have a friend that own's a Dicronite dry lube shop, you can get it coated for free, lasts a long, long time.
www.dicronite.com


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## Clones123 (Apr 29, 2010)

SlikRick said:


> Or if you have a friend that own's a Dicronite dry lube shop, you can get it coated for free, lasts a long, long time.
> www.dicronite.com


Wow - that's pretty interesting stuff. I'd bet that you'd need to have one seriously clean and dry chain before they'd touch it though (0.5 micron film thickness). Even if the owner was a _good_ friend, a deal to coat your drive chain might still involve a teenage prostitute.


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## moutainkiller (Feb 19, 2010)

I use White Lithium Grease. Not sure if this is the same stuff as the white lightning stuff everyone is talking about, but it seams to be doing the job and its like 4 bucks for a can of it and it last forever.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

moutainkiller said:


> I use White Lithium Grease. Not sure if this is the same stuff as the white lightning stuff everyone is talking about, but it seams to be doing the job and its like 4 bucks for a can of it and it last forever.


No, White Lightning is significantly different. It is a liquid you drip on to the chain. It is composed of a solvent with special wax dissolved in it, and when the solvent evaporates it leaves behind a coating of the thin, soft wax.

White lithium grease is _way_ thicker than any proper chain lube. There are lots of good, cheap alternatives to expensive chain lubes marketed towards bikes, but that is not one of them. Bar and chain oil for chainsaws is a good place to start. It will run much smoother and cleaner and pick up less dirt, dust, etc. Basically, oil and wax-based lubes are for chains, grease is for bearings


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## moutainkiller (Feb 19, 2010)

boomn said:


> No, White Lightning is significantly different. It is a liquid you drip on to the chain. It is composed of a solvent with special wax dissolved in it, and when the solvent evaporates it leaves behind a coating of the thin, soft wax.
> 
> White lithium grease is _way_ thicker than any proper chain lube. There are lots of good, cheap alternatives to expensive chain lubes marketed towards bikes, but that is not one of them. Bar and chain oil for chainsaws is a good place to start. It will run much smoother and cleaner and pick up less dirt, dust, etc. Basically, oil and wax-based lubes are for chains, grease is for bearings


Thanks for the explanation. I have noticed that just about everything sticks to my chain. I have been wondering why when I look at photos of other people's bikes their chains look so nice and shiny, like they are brand new. Unlike mine that is like black from everything sticking to it. I'm still on the learning curve...try to hold back the laughs


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

moutainkiller said:


> Thanks for the explanation. I have noticed that just about everything sticks to my chain. I have been wondering why when I look at photos of other people's bikes their chains look so nice and shiny, like they are brand new. Unlike mine that is like black from everything sticking to it. I'm still on the learning curve...try to hold back the laughs


no problem:thumbsup: We've all been there, whether some admit it or not


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## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

This is the best stuff that I've found. It works great here in the desert.

http://www.purpleextreme.com/

Don't know if someone already mentioned it, but if they did I'm reaffirming it's good stuff.

MTBP


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## FBinNY (Nov 7, 2008)

As you can see everyone has a favorite and maybe one they hate. You might as well have asked "what's the best flavor ice cream"

I make a chain lube, so consider the source here, but the best thing I can suggest is that you read the reviews section here on mtbr. make a short list of the higher rated products, then read the actual reviews paying attention especially to those by people riding in similar conditions to yours. 

If you live in the desert, you want a lube rated well by other desert riders, if you live in a wet climate, high desert user ratings aren't meaningful for you. Doing that will get you down to a small number of candidates, then toss a coin and start trying.

The fact of the matter is that a chain oil not only has to match where and how you ride, but you're own personal preferences. Two products may be technically comparable, but one may require more frequent applications, or be easier to apply, or look nicer, or whatever. In the end you'll settle on a chain lube that works best for you.


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## savagemann (Jan 14, 2008)

nachomc said:


> I use Dumonde. Have tried others like Rock n Roll, triflow, etc. Love me some Dumonde.


I use Dumonde Tech as well.

Durring the summer I use a mix 50/50 green/yellow.
The rest of the year I just use green.
I usually just apply it like a lazy bastid while spinning the cranks backwards every couple rides, then wipe off the excess.

But every 10 or so rides I'll take the chain off and stick it in the parts washer and scrub that sucker down to bare metal.
Then rinse it out with ALOT of water.
Then take the compressor nozzle to it until it is COMPLETELY dry.
Here is where it gets good...............
Then I take a shop towel and fold it in half and lay it on a clean workbench ( use compressor before hand on said bench to remove any metal shavings etc)
Fold the chain at the half way point, then fold again so it is totally flat.
Put 1 drop of dumonde in between each plate all the way around.
Then, flip the chain over and repeat on other side.
Then, lay out several shop rags across bench, and stretch chain out across rags.
Put 1 drop on each roller.
Pick up chain from middle and wipe down with clean shop rags, pinching on all sides to remove all excess.

I usually go through about 6 shop rags to lube my chain when I do this, but as I said, it is only every 10 or more rides, and really only takes like 5-10 minutes.

Everytime I take the chain off to do this, I clean off the derailleur pulleys with a small flat head.......brush the cassette, chainrings and F&R derailleurs off with a cog brush........oil the shift cables....check der alignment.
Whole thing takes maybe 20 minutes.

The dumonde smells nice too.....= )


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## McKraut (Nov 8, 2010)

chode said:


> we swear by this stuff in the motorcycle community and it's relatively cheap. you can find it at lowes. http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Performance-Lubricants-Multi-Use-Fluoropolymer/dp/B000GL19TY


+1 to what this guy said... my DID chain on my ducati loves this stuff. my girlfriend and i just got new mountain bikes... her first real bike and my first higher end mtb, so i may try this stuff out. my last bike i think i only ever used tri-flow.


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## RBowles (Jun 1, 2010)

Not to be hijacking the thread, but I recently got a Park Tool chain cleaner and went to work on my bikes with it. You would not believe the amount of goop, grit, metal shavings and grime I got out of my chain.:eekster:


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## RBowles (Jun 1, 2010)

Another type lube that I really like that I don't see mentioned here is CLP, (clean lubricant protectant). It's actually mil-spec cleaner made for firearms.


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## [email protected] (Feb 3, 2008)

I've been using Phil's Tenacious for a wile but didn't like how it left the chain/cassette looknig grimey. started using on of finishline's teflon based lubes and no more grimey look, tho for winter I'ld preferr something "wet" that'll do the same thing


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## manabiker (Jul 18, 2010)

Finish Line Ceramic Wax, a brand new wax, I just tried it out today for the first time, I've been using White Lightning, the shifting seemed smoother, the chain seemed to roll easier, I rode 19 miles, in 40 degree weather, in mud, sand and some standing water, (it rained yesterday), on the meanest trail in lower Michigan, the Potawami, I've always lubed after every ride, the directions said I can go 2 rides before lubing again, I won't, I'll lube it again, the chain still feels waxed, but I'll rewax.. this stuff seems better then the WL, I'll know more after I get more rides in.


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## Porschescum (Oct 29, 2010)

chode said:


> we swear by this stuff in the motorcycle community and it's relatively cheap. you can find it at lowes. http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Performance-Lubricants-Multi-Use-Fluoropolymer/dp/B000GL19TY


+1 (for the motorcycle community and the chain lube:thumbsup: )


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

White lightning seems to be good for about 30-40 miles then starts to make noise


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## rmi (Jan 14, 2010)

I like that lube for my motorcycle too. I use it to lube the stanctions on my mountain bike too. I used to use it for the chain, but find that squeeze-bottle lube is easier to apply than aerosol. Maybe I will have to give it another try.

Ryan



Porschescum said:


> +1 (for the motorcycle community and the chain lube:thumbsup: )


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## moutainkiller (Feb 19, 2010)

What a good lube for wet, salty, snowy conditions?

I commute on my bike daily and now that winter is here everything is covered in salt. I'm worried about my chain rusting on me. 

I was originally using White Lithium Grease that kept the chain more than quite but everything stuck to it. (Broom informed me why this was happening and why white lithium grease wasn't he best choice)


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Wet, salty, snowy depends on your attitude about working on the bike.

I like to use White Lightning. It doesn't last very long in wet conditions, but wet conditions are dirty conditions and it saves me working on the chain.

If you're okay with cleaning the chain more often, you probably won't have to reapply as much using an oil-based lube. Conventional wisdom is to use an oil, (NOT motor oil) rather than a grease. Which one is a subject of lots of debate.


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## manabiker (Jul 18, 2010)

I was using White Lightning wax, I've started using the new Finish Line Ceramic Wax, it says not to use it as often, but I do, I use it after every ride, so far so good.

http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/ceramic_wax_lube.htm


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## newnan3 (Sep 30, 2010)

First, I started off with White Lightning.
Second, I tried Prolink.
Now I use Chain-L.


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

moutainkiller said:


> What a good lube for wet, salty, snowy conditions?
> 
> I commute on my bike daily and now that winter is here everything is covered in salt. I'm worried about my chain rusting on me.
> 
> I was originally using White Lithium Grease that kept the chain more than quite but everything stuck to it. (Broom informed me why this was happening and why white lithium grease wasn't he best choice)


A wet lube is best...most will work well (Finish Line, Chain L, Pedros, etc)

I prefer to use a Bar and Chain Oil, much cheaper (32oz for about the same price as a 4oz bottle of "bicycle" chain lube). I prefer a Biodegradable variety, G-Oil Bar and Chain works well (animal fat based) and is found at Home Depot. I currently use a Canola Oil based Renewable Lubricants. I got the 15w-50 variety which is rather thick so I cut it 50/50 with standard Canola Oil. It works as well as ANY wet lubricant that I have used (and better than any dry lubricant period) in 18 years of riding.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

mtnbiker72 said:


> A wet lube is best...most will work well (Finish Line, Chain L, Pedros, etc)
> 
> I prefer to use a Bar and Chain Oil, much cheaper (32oz for about the same price as a 4oz bottle of "bicycle" chain lube). I prefer a Biodegradable variety, G-Oil Bar and Chain works well (animal fat based) and is found at Home Depot. I currently use a Canola Oil based Renewable Lubricants. I got the 15w-50 variety which is rather thick so I cut it 50/50 with standard Canola Oil. It works as well as ANY wet lubricant that I have used (and better than any dry lubricant period) in 18 years of riding.


/\ This , been using the Bio w/Canola oil for about a year . Good stuff , have not used a better chain lube .


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## moutainkiller (Feb 19, 2010)

Okay guys have me interested in this 'homemade' chain lube (I like doing stuff on my own and def. like saving money!) I'm a little confused on the ingredients and the mixing procedure though.

So you just take the Bar and Chain oil and mix that 50/50 with Canola Oil...is that right? Now I'm familiar with Bar and Chain oil (that is I'm assuming your talking about chainsaw bar and chain oil) but the Canola Oil, are you referring to just normal canola oil like for cooking?

How do you go about applying it to your chains? I did a little research online and stumbled on This Link that describes how someone else applies his homemade mixture. Is your way close to his?

(sorry in advance if I'm being a pain)


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

moutainkiller said:


> Okay guys have me interested in this 'homemade' chain lube (I like doing stuff on my own and def. like saving money!) I'm a little confused on the ingredients and the mixing procedure though.
> 
> So you just take the Bar and Chain oil and mix that 50/50 with Canola Oil...is that right? Now I'm familiar with Bar and Chain oil (that is I'm assuming your talking about chainsaw bar and chain oil) but the Canola Oil, are you referring to just normal canola oil like for cooking?
> 
> ...


That is my blog, but it is Chain-L's lubing procedure as it is very well written and pretty much standard practice with wet lubes.

If you get 10w-30 weight bar and chain oil...it is just about the right thickness for lubing your chain strait up. Bar and Chain oil is what is made for chainsaws so it can withstand the condition of a bicycle chain easily. Standard Bar and Chain works well, but is petroleum based which means it does contaminate the environment as it gets washed off (however small that might be). I am using a 15W-50 Canola Based Bar and Chain Oil that has about twice the thickness (cSt @ 40 degree C) so I cut it 50/50 with standard Canola Oil, the stuff you cook with.

I've used these two
-G-Oil which is animal fat based, found at Home Depot for about $6 a quart...I used this before switching to plant based and it works very well strait up

-Renewable Lubricants...ordered online from Grainger for about $16 a quart, but comes in 15W-50 so combined with a bottle of Canola oil comes out at about $20 for a half gallon (I give this stuff away to friends since I have so much of it!)

I just put it in an old lube bottle, or you can get plastic bottles with drip applicators easily. Riding the weekends in the wet and sloppy PNW, I can easily get a month or more between applications. I use two chains, so when it's time to lube I already have a cleaned and lubed chain ready to go and I clean and lubricate the chain I take off and store it until it's time to switch again. This also prolongs the life of my cassette and chainrings.
:thumbsup:


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## moutainkiller (Feb 19, 2010)

Sweet thanks a lot for explaining all that! I think I am going to go with the planet friendly version like you have...Every little bit helps!

Thanks again!


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## moutainkiller (Feb 19, 2010)

mtnbiker72 -- Do you use you homemade lube for your other bike components or is it strictly for you chain?


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## GFAthens (Sep 10, 2009)

I use Dumond Tech, and sometimes Pedros. Doesn't really matter what you use.


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

pedros i think. it works so i dont really worry about it too much.


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## Ripley_405 (Nov 1, 2010)

I don't see what the issue is with Finish Line Dry / Wet lubes? I've used them for over 3 years with NO ISSUES WHATSOEVER.

The Dry Lube doesn't mean it is a Dry Lube - it is for dry conditions. So if you are riding dusty trail centres etc, then it won't attract all the dust to your chain.

The Wet Lube is for wet conditions and all the crud that will inevitably fall on the drivetrain and chain won't turn to abrasive grit gloop and cause irrepairable damage.

Anyway. I clean my bike after every ride, and re apply lube after every ride. Keeps it running smooth and hassle free.

Oh and I use GT85 on all mech pivot points to disperse water so i don;t get rust.

All 3 of those products are readily available in the UK, and relatively cheap too.


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

moutainkiller said:


> mtnbiker72 -- Do you use you homemade lube for your other bike components or is it strictly for you chain?


Not homemade per say, but products I use that aren't "bicycle specific" and therefore don't have a ridiculous markup:

-Lubrimatic Green (Soy based) Lithium Complex grease for bearings

-Slickoleum grease for suspension parts (LBS sells it as Slick Honey)

-Torco Fork Oil

-Purple Power Cleaner/Degreaser


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## S_Trek (May 3, 2010)

Still using my dirtbike chain lube. Bellray & Maxima


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## floydlippencott (Sep 4, 2010)

Unicorn fat .


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## S_Trek (May 3, 2010)

floydlippencott said:


> Unicorn fat .


Possum piss


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## Nickbm3 (Nov 10, 2010)

Ive been using regular triflow on my chain, but just picked up a bottle of the triflow dry lube. When you guys use dry lube, do you wipe the chain off when it dries, or just leave the buildup on there?


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## FBinNY (Nov 7, 2008)

Nickbm3 said:


> Ive been using regular triflow on my chain, but just picked up a bottle of the triflow dry lube. When you guys use dry lube, do you wipe the chain off when it dries, or just leave the buildup on there?


the idea is to have as dry to the touch a surface on the outside as possible. So if the Tri-flow dry is dry to the touch already, no need to wipe, if not, wipe it.


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## Nickbm3 (Nov 10, 2010)

Yeah its pretty dry, but it looks like white waxy buildup leftover... as long as the chain feels dry just leave the excess wax on?


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## FBinNY (Nov 7, 2008)

Nickbm3 said:


> Yeah its pretty dry, but it looks like white waxy buildup leftover... as long as the chain feels dry just leave the excess wax on?


Why wouldn't you? As long as it doesn't attract dirt, or build up on the RD pulleys or do something else you don't want, it isn't doing any harm, and might even do some good as a rust shield.


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