# Specialized Command Post Blacklite



## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

Looks like Specialized has come out with a new and improved Command post: http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/04/19/specializeds-new-blacklite-command-post-drops-100g-and-your-saddle/.

The new lever looks sweet, but too bad they kept the one-bolt head.


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## pfox90 (Aug 8, 2010)

They need to make a 27.2 diameter one.


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## mattsavage (Sep 3, 2003)

zuuds said:


> Looks like Specialized has come out with a new and improved Command post: http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/04/19/specializeds-new-blacklite-command-post-drops-100g-and-your-saddle/.
> 
> The new lever looks sweet, but too bad they kept the one-bolt head.


Can't wait see the battle that ensues over the remote lever. I wonder if it's only compatible with Specialized's grips.


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

mattsavage said:


> Can't wait see the battle that ensues over the remote lever. I wonder if it's only compatible with Specialized's grips.


It looks like you can get the remote in two flavors: one that comes with grips, in which case the remote lever doubles as the grip retention clamp, or without grips, in which case the remote lever just mounts to empty space on the handlebar like anything else.

In looking at the picture of the dual purpose remote lever/grip clamp, I don't see why that couldn't be made to work with some other brand of grips. However, Big S is the master of making things proprietary just for the sake of being non-compatible with everything else -- for example their oddball headset size and proprietary remote cable on the old Command Post -- so that remains to be seen. But they deserve props for offering two versions.


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## hardboiled (Jun 10, 2006)

more info up on the Specialized website. Here's some tech/marketing spew. They say it's 100g less than the old Command Post, but you sure wouldn't know it by looking at the claimed weights on their own website (which appear to be about the same)...

edit tried to make the pic bigger but that's the best I could do... go to the spec website if you want to read it, I guess.


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## thrasher_s (Oct 5, 2009)

I love the Command Post that came with my Enduro. Nice to know that if it craps out there is an updated version.


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## Redley78 (Mar 22, 2010)

Does anybody know when these (Blacklite) will be sold in stores? 
I called a specialized dealer and the guy had no idea


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## pfox90 (Aug 8, 2010)

Redley78 said:


> Does anybody know when these (Blacklite) will be sold in stores?
> I called a specialized dealer and the guy had no idea


Sounds promising lol


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## Prettym1k3 (Oct 11, 2005)

I can't wait to get my hands on one of these.


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## Redley78 (Mar 22, 2010)

pfox90 said:


> Sounds promising lol


Not really, It just means that most customer service reps dont know crap. I thought someone in this forum might have some insight.


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## hardboiled (Jun 10, 2006)

looks like they are available through the Specialized website right now.


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## SFBMRC (Oct 29, 2006)

All sized except the 30.9/75mm are in stock. 

Looks like a pretty sweet post. I JUST bought the older model but am now selling it because I need a zero offset post. Too bad they don't make an zero offset version.


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## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

i keep waiting to buy the perfect post and a new one keeps coming out every couple of months. when i can haz my adj. post?


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## rileymeister (Nov 17, 2006)

Got mine yesterday and the shop I go to has some in stock. Seatpost is super nice!


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## mojo28246 (Aug 8, 2007)

I don't know about new and improved it looks like a KS copy with the remote, cable housing and quick release cable system. I thought I saw a pic on a scale months ago a ks post with cable and remote that weight 520g. I was hoping that the new command post would be hydraulic and offer in 27.2.


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## Redley78 (Mar 22, 2010)

Here is an article about the blacklite from singletrack.com
http://singletrack.competitor.com/2011/04/bikes-tech/new-gear-command-post-blacklite_15677


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

eh. i like the two drop feature and the remote but the rest is so so. the reverb is like 510 grams and ks has a post coming out that is like 450 grams. plus the clamping system still looks bad.


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## Redley78 (Mar 22, 2010)

After researching and trying this post on my bike at the store i must say, its not for everybody. There is just too little adjustability in these with all travel versions.
I can only have 7.5 inches of post in my frame, this leaves 3-4 inches out of the frame at its lowest travel setting. This creates downhill situations where i want my post dropped, but max drop from seatclamp is 4 inches. Climbing seat height would also be too high with the 4 and 5 inch versions. 
Once again, not for everyone, and i am a very average person 5'10" 165 lbs.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Ok I just got the 100mm travel blacklite post from specialized. I was going kind of crazy trying to decide between the 75mm and 100mm post because I wasn't sure if the 100mm would fit me and my bike.
So, for those of you that might be looking for the information, you will need to have at least 6.5 inches of seatpost exposed on your current seatpost in order to use the 100mm version. This is assuming that you can fit the whole bottom part of the post into your seat tube.
In other words, the bottom section of the command post is roughly 8.5 inches from the bottom of the post up to where the post flares out. Then above that, there is roughly 6.5 inches up to the middle of the seat rail(when the post is fully extended).

So in the example above by Redley78, since he can only fit 7.5 inches of seatpost in his frame, he would need to have 7.5 inches of post exposed(when the post is fully extended).


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## Wheelspeed (Jan 12, 2006)

pwu_1 said:


> Ok I just got the 100mm travel blacklite post from specialized. I was going kind of crazy trying to decide between the 75mm and 100mm post because I wasn't sure if the 100mm would fit me and my bike.
> So, for those of you that might be looking for the information, you will need to have at least 6.5 inches of seatpost exposed on your current seatpost in order to use the 100mm version. This is assuming that you can fit the whole bottom part of the post into your seat tube.
> In other words, the bottom section of the command post is roughly 8.5 inches from the bottom of the post up to where the post flares out. Then above that, there is roughly 6.5 inches up to the middle of the seat rail(when the post is fully extended).
> 
> So in the example above by Redley78, since he can only fit 7.5 inches of seatpost in his frame, he would need to have 7.5 inches of post exposed(when the post is fully extended).


Thanks, that's some good info on the 100mm post. Can you also tell us how many inches from the bottom to the minimum insertion line? (I have a lot of seat post exposed, don't care about maximum drop, so would like to get the 100mm version instead of the heavier 125mm version if I can raise it enough.)


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Wheelspeed said:


> Thanks, that's some good info on the 100mm post. Can you also tell us how many inches from the bottom to the minimum insertion line? (I have a lot of seat post exposed, don't care about maximum drop, so would like to get the 100mm version instead of the heavier 125mm version if I can raise it enough.)


I weighed the post with all the hardware that came with it and it weighed 540 grams on my scale.

Minimum insertion is 100mm, just slightly less than 4 inches. At minimum insertion, there is 280mm(about 11 inches) exposed from top of seat tube to middle of seat rail.

So basically, assuming your frame's seat tube is long enough to fit the whole seat post, if your current seat post has between 6.5 inches to 11 inches exposed, then the 100mm post will work for you.


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## thefriar (Jan 23, 2008)

If you check the comments looks like the old command post was weighed without cables and remote and new 100g less blacklite was measured with them. 

I have one on order, should be in today I hope... I've heard mixed reviews and I'm a GD fan boy for years without issue so I'm a bit nervous.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Right. The new post is about 100 grams lighter than the old one(25 bucks cheaper too!). I just put the weight there to compare to the claimed weight of 531 grams.

What kind of mixed reviews have you heard? The only complaints I've found were about the cable being proprietary(which has been changed to use regular derailleur cable now) and the first generation ones with the leaky seal(also has been fixed with a better seal).

I just installed mine last night so only rode around the block but so far it seems to work really good. Once it is locked in position the post does not move at all. No play whatsoever. 
I have only 2 minor quibbles if you can even call it that.
1) When the post is fully extended, if you grab the bike by the post you'll get grease on your hands.
2) The trigger is hard to push if your weight is totally on the saddle

I was deciding between the GD and the blacklite. Picked the blacklite because I needed a setback seatpost. Also the blacklite needs slightly less minimum exposed seatpost than the GD(6.5 inches vs 7.25 inches


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## Redley78 (Mar 22, 2010)

pwu_1 said:


> Right. The new post is about 100 grams lighter than the old one(25 bucks cheaper too!). I just put the weight there to compare to the claimed weight of 531 grams.
> 
> What kind of mixed reviews have you heard? The only complaints I've found were about the cable being proprietary(which has been changed to use regular derailleur cable now) and the first generation ones with the leaky seal(also has been fixed with a better seal).
> 
> ...


i am in the same boat as you, as far as decisions go. However, I am deciding to go with the Turbo GD because the post is shorter below the clamp, 6.75" (350mm GD) vs 8.5" (BL). And in my situation with my frame only accepting 7.5 inches of post, i will be able to run the GD at max height of 7.25 vs 7.5 (BL), and dropped to 3.25" vs 3.50" (BL).


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## Redley78 (Mar 22, 2010)

Sorry for the double post... Anyone know of any gravity dropper retailers in Socal/OC areas? Id rather see the post in person before purchasing.


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## thefriar (Jan 23, 2008)

Post up in the SoCal forums, surely someone in your area will have one on their bike to show you...


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## Wheelspeed (Jan 12, 2006)

*75mm info?*

Kind of surprised Specialized didn't post more info yet to help people choose the right size.

With pwu's help, I've learned that the 100mm version would work on my hardtail bike, but is too long for my old FSR which doesn't allow much post to be in the seat tube.

Anyone have all the measurements of the 75mm version? Minimum insertion, length from bottom of post to bottom of flange (where it flairs out), and length from bottom of flange to the saddle rail mount?


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## thefriar (Jan 23, 2008)

I had the post out for field testing this weekend. Worked as advertised, but the return is a little quick for my likes, maybe drop the air pressure a bit and see where that takes me.


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## Wheeldog (Dec 12, 2004)

Could someone who has installed one of the Blacklites post a photo of the lever / cable housing / barrel adjuster arrangement? I am putting one of the 100 mm versions on my bike and I'm questioning the arrangement near the lever. There is a long piece made of soft rubber that has me scratching my head - I don't see it in the instructions and can't figure where it's supposed to go. They also seem to have shorted me on ferrules.  

Thanks.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Wheeldog said:


> Could someone who has installed one of the Blacklites post a photo of the lever / cable housing / barrel adjuster arrangement? I am putting one of the 100 mm versions on my bike and I'm questioning the arrangement near the lever. There is a long piece made of soft rubber that has me scratching my head - I don't see it in the instructions and can't figure where it's supposed to go. They also seem to have shorted me on ferrules.
> 
> Thanks.


The long black piece that kinda looks like a miniature missile? I think that is supposed to be a seal for the cable at the seatpost end but I couldn't figure out how to use it so I just left it off. 
My post was also short 1 ferrule once I cut the housing to install the tension adjustment thingy


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## Kaliman (Sep 22, 2009)

Wheeldog said:


> Could someone who has installed one of the Blacklites post a photo of the lever / cable housing / barrel adjuster arrangement? I am putting one of the 100 mm versions on my bike and I'm questioning the arrangement near the lever. There is a long piece made of soft rubber that has me scratching my head - I don't see it in the instructions and can't figure where it's supposed to go. They also seem to have shorted me on ferrules.
> 
> Thanks.


I will try to take a picture later, but I left the black rubber piece out as well, I have no idea what it is for.

Mine goes Lever>Housing>Adjuster>Housing>Post

Mine came with the correct amount of ferrules.


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## Wheeldog (Dec 12, 2004)

pwu_1 and Kaliman,

Thanks - I got it figured out and installed. I hate having leftover parts - you can even see the rubber missile-looking thing in the photos from Specialized. I ended up installing the barrel adjuster a little ways down from the noodle, pretty much in line with the stem. My frame (Blur LTc has the guides) so the routing was really pretty clean.

I guess they use that barrel and tiny hex setscrew at the saddle end to save weight, but jeez I was worried I'd strip something out when I was tightening it down. I like to torque things to spec but who the hell has a torque wrench with that size bit? Maybe a Swiss watchmaker someplace.

Getting a real run of rain around here so I haven't had time to try out the post but it seems pretty solid.


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## swan3609 (Oct 28, 2006)

Funny thing working in a bike shop.. 

I Just built up a Yeti ASR-7 with the old version of the Command post a month ago.. After I get 2 rides on the post the new BL version comes out and earlier last week I mention that I like the new lever better then the old version I have..
So yesterday my manager tells me that my new seat post is in.. 

WTF? I didnt order a new seatpost, mine is like brand new?!

Turns out he decided that the new version is that much better and would help me with my inner weight weenie, so he ordered me the new post without informing me.. So I mounted it up and It is much better then the old version.. the action is much smoother and the lever is tons better.. I was unsure about the in line adjuster but I guess its cool.. I just would rather not have 4 housing ends rather then 2 for the old version.. but all in all it is an improvement.. 

I just hope I can sell my old post for how much the new one cost..


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## AEsco48 (Apr 1, 2011)

For a Large size 2011 Stumpy FSR Elite... Should I get the 100 or 125mm version. I am 6ft tall with long legs... Thx


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## Kaliman (Sep 22, 2009)

You should be fine with the 125mm.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

AEsco48 said:


> For a Large size 2011 Stumpy FSR Elite... Should I get the 100 or 125mm version. I am 6ft tall with long legs... Thx


The amount of drop is all personal perference. 
You should however, determine whether both will fit before deciding on which one to order.
I have the 100mm post and according to my measurements, you'll need at least 6.5 inches of exposed seatpost on your current setup(measured from top of seat tube to center of seat rail) to use the 100mm post. For the 125mm post my guess is you would need 7.5 inches of exposed seatpost but no guarantees since I didn't actually try it. 
After that its just personal preference on the amount of drop.


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## Lost Biker (Jun 7, 2009)

Anyone have one of these new Blacklite yet? whats your review on it?


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

The post itself seems good. There's no play in it at all yet. It's very sensitive to setup though and the cable that comes with it isn't all that good. I ended up having a remote lever that was incredibly difficult to push. I took it all apart and put a new shifter cable in and it was better. It's still nowhere near as smooth as the Reverb, but nothing is. The bonus in this post is that if it breaks on you mid-ride, the locking collet should make it so you have a normal post in most instances. When my Reverb failed mid-ride I was left standing. 

The post and operation seems great, but...they still haven't fixed the saddle clamping mechanism. I've had way too many issues of my saddle rotating backwards and the nose coming up to hit me in the balls. What's the point of a drop post if you have to stop and get out your multi-tool to correct your saddle position 3-4 times per ride? My friend said to put carbon paste where the 2 pieces meet so they don't rotate. He had that work for him. I need to try this, but I'm irritated that it needs half-ass fixes to make it work correctly. I'm not sure why there are no grooves and teeth at this joining. Take a Deity Tibia seatpost for example. It's 1 bolt, but it never rotates. I'm not sure why Specialized couldn't figure that out. With all the complaints about the first one, I'm not sure why they didn't go with a 2 bolt head.

I'd still be riding the Reverb if it fit on my new bike and it wasn't in need of service. This is the best option for my frame though.


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## e-luder (Mar 25, 2008)

^^^ thats funny I toasted my cable in initial setup and had to put a new one in before trying it, it came apart while trying to get the set screw on there. I have been running mine for a little over a month now. I havant tried a Reverb but its way better than Joplin ever was. no annoying side to side play I can lift up on the saddle without worry of getting air in the system. The middle setting is at the perfect hight for me and I can find it every time. I really like the lever as well, it took a couple rides to get it exactly were I wanted it but now its just natural to hit it. I purchased this post for a couple reasons it was a mechanical and fully serviceable. It has lived up to my expectations thus far.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

I've had mine since May and I love the post. No experience with the other seat posts so nothing else to compare to.
I have not had any problems with it at all. The seat post I got actually had carbon assembly paste on the seat clamp assembly from the factory. I torqued the bolt down to spec and the seat has not moved at all.(I weigh about 165 without gear).
The only nitpick thing I can say is that the lever is hard to push if I'm sitting on the seat. I have to slightly un-weigh, push the lever, then push the seat down with my butt. Sometimes I actually think that might be a good thing since it prevents accidental seat lowering.


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## Lost Biker (Jun 7, 2009)

Cool reviews. Leaning with Blacklite.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

ronabrandt said:


> ^^^ thats funny I toasted my cable in initial setup and had to put a new one in before trying it, it came apart while trying to get the set screw on there.


Mine did the same damn thing. The set screw split some of the threads in half on the steel cable. I was like WTF? I didn't tighten it too much. Any looser and the cable would pull right through the barrel without releasing the post.



pwu_1 said:


> I've had mine since May and I love the post. No experience with the other seat posts so nothing else to compare to.
> I have not had any problems with it at all. The seat post I got actually had carbon assembly paste on the seat clamp assembly from the factory. I torqued the bolt down to spec and the seat has not moved at all.(I weigh about 165 without gear).


Mine didn't have any. Plus I'm quite a bit heavier than you so could explain why you're not having any issues.



pwu_1 said:


> The only nitpick thing I can say is that the lever is hard to push if I'm sitting on the seat. I have to slightly un-weigh, push the lever, then push the seat down with my butt. Sometimes I actually think that might be a good thing since it prevents accidental seat lowering.


This is normal for every drop post I've used. With the Reverb it was not as pronounced, but it was still there.


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## e-luder (Mar 25, 2008)

BaeckerX1 said:


> pwu_1 said:
> 
> 
> > The only nitpick thing I can say is that the lever is hard to push if I'm sitting on the seat. I have to slightly un-weigh, push the lever, then push the seat down with my butt. Sometimes I actually think that might be a good thing since it prevents accidental seat lowering.
> ...


I have never really noticed this, maybe its because I weigh nothing. Haven't had any slip issues either.


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

I just picked mine up and installed it last night. It's my first dropper seatpost, so I have nothing to compare it to, but seems to work well. Haven't had a chance to ride yet.

The owner's manual says to lubricate the inner tube (the smaller diameter part of the post) every ride, but doesn't say what to use. What are people using?


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## deoreo (Aug 26, 2005)

zuuds said:


> The owner's manual says to lubricate the inner tube (the smaller diameter part of the post) every ride, but doesn't say what to use. What are people using?


I use TriFlow, but any thin/chain lube would work.
After a ride I wipe off any dust/dirt, the lube the post, and seal, cycle it up & down a few times, then wipe off any excess oil - good to go for the next ride.


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

Did my first ride with the Blacklite today, it was very solid, no play or slop that I could detect. This was my first time ever on a dropper seatpost, and all I can say is wow. . . I see what all the hype is about now. At the push of a button you have an ideal pedaling position, you can to drop it to the middle for mixed climbing and descending, and then all the way down for descending. I could see where infinite adjustablity would be good to have, because the middle position seems a wee bit low, but the trade-off of having the reassuring "clunk" you feel when it lock into place is worth it. 

I did have one issue however, it moved up no problem from the bottom position to the middle position, but it didn't want to rise up from the middle to the top position. Most times, in order to get from the middle to the top, I would have to drop it all the way down first, and then let it rise two positions.

I checked the air pressure from the factory, and it was 40 PSI. The manual said the post is shipped with 25 psi, and the absolute maximum pressure is 40. When I installed the post, I dropped the pressure to 30 psi figuring that would be a good middle ground to start.

Are others having this problem, or is this something that will happen until the post gets a chance to break in? What PSI are people running? I am going to bump the air pressure up to 35 and see if that fixes it.


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## Jai (Nov 7, 2010)

Hi guys, can you give a hand?

I was about to buy a Reverb but it seems –at least to me- that a mechanical seatpost like the Blacklite is more reliable. The Specialized local dealer in Chile doesn’t have it, and I don’t want to buy a Reverb or KS being so far away. If they had any problem I would be on my own…

So… can anyone give me the name or email address of your Lbs so I can try to reach them and get one? I would really appreciate it.


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## Lost Biker (Jun 7, 2009)

U can order directly from specialized.com


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## Jai (Nov 7, 2010)

Lost Biker said:


> U can order directly from specialized.com


No, since there is a Specialized dealer here they don't ship to Chile.


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## madmossy (Mar 5, 2011)

Looks like a rebranded X-Fusion Hilo 100 to me or atleast very very close to one.


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## deoreo (Aug 26, 2005)

zuuds said:


> Are others having this problem, or is this something that will happen until the post gets a chance to break in? What PSI are people running? I am going to bump the air pressure up to 35 and see if that fixes it.


Use the TriFlow, or light lube as stated above, and let it break in for a couple rides.
Mine did this at first, too (original model, with the upgraded sealhead.) It worked ok at first, but got super smooth after a few rides. I'm running 30-35psi in mine, and have not had to add air in over a year of use now. I make sure my rear is on the seat, or completely away from it when I want it at the top position, otherwise I'll get a "punch" where I don't want it


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

deoreo said:


> Use the TriFlow, or light lube as stated above, and let it break in for a couple rides.
> Mine did this at first, too (original model, with the upgraded sealhead.) It worked ok at first, but got super smooth after a few rides. I'm running 30-35psi in mine, and have not had to add air in over a year of use now. I make sure my rear is on the seat, or completely away from it when I want it at the top position, otherwise I'll get a "punch" where I don't want it


Also, might want to try loosening your seat clamp first to make sure the clamp is not too tight, making the post bind.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

madmossy said:


> Looks like a rebranded X-Fusion Hilo 100 to me or atleast very very close to one.


X-Fusion Hilo is hydraulic with infinite position. The Specialized is mechanical with 3 preset position so they are completely different.


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

deoreo said:


> Use the TriFlow, or light lube as stated above, and let it break in for a couple rides.
> Mine did this at first, too (original model, with the upgraded sealhead.) It worked ok at first, but got super smooth after a few rides. I'm running 30-35psi in mine, and have not had to add air in over a year of use now. I make sure my rear is on the seat, or completely away from it when I want it at the top position, otherwise I'll get a "punch" where I don't want it





pwu_1 said:


> Also, might want to try loosening your seat clamp first to make sure the clamp is not too tight, making the post bind.


Good info, thanks! I think my seat clamp is OK because I was paranoid about overtightening it, but it won't hurt to double check it.


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## pkatz2003 (Mar 28, 2011)

*S-Works Officianados*

I know this is not totally in-line with this thread, but I have a sweet, older, S-works team frame that just recently met its demise. Does anyone know about repairing M2 metal matrix frames? With significant cracks/breaks, is it garbage?


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

zuuds said:


> Did my first ride with the Blacklite today, it was very solid, no play or slop that I could detect. This was my first time ever on a dropper seatpost, and all I can say is wow. . . I see what all the hype is about now. At the push of a button you have an ideal pedaling position, you can to drop it to the middle for mixed climbing and descending, and then all the way down for descending. I could see where infinite adjustablity would be good to have, because the middle position seems a wee bit low, but the trade-off of having the reassuring "clunk" you feel when it lock into place is worth it.
> 
> I did have one issue however, it moved up no problem from the bottom position to the middle position, but it didn't want to rise up from the middle to the top position. Most times, in order to get from the middle to the top, I would have to drop it all the way down first, and then let it rise two positions.
> 
> ...


1 of the below, or a combination of:

1. Air pressure too low. Perhaps you're getting an inaccurate reading. You might already know this, but you need to set the pressure with the post at full extension.
2. Cable tension not high enough and not releasing the post collet all the way.
3. Seatpost clamp too tight. This isn't as much of an issue I've found on the Command post though. It has thicker walls than the Reverb, etc. I've got a bolt-on clamp that's pretty damn tight and I haven't had issues.

I have managed to fix my seat clamp/saddle rotating issues with a bunch of carbon paste at all the interfaces. I like the post now, but still miss the Reverb and wish I could run it on this bike. This is the second best choice for me, but the best choice for my Pivot.


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## Jai (Nov 7, 2010)

BaeckerX1 said:


> I like the post now, but still miss the Reverb and wish I could run it on this bike. This is the second best choice for me, but the best choice for my Pivot.


I really hate to read that 
I've just ordered a Blacklite from USA (and it wasn't easy because of Specialized dealer territory agreements) while I could get a Reverb locally in Chile. Based on what I've read here it seems to me that the command is more reliable, second best after GD.
I hope I'm right, fingers crossed.


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## Lost Biker (Jun 7, 2009)

Jai said:


> I really hate to read that
> I've just ordered a Blacklite from USA (and it wasn't easy because of Specialized dealer territory agreements) while I could get a Reverb locally in Chile. Based on what I've read here it seems to me that the command is more reliable, second best after GD.
> I hope I'm right, fingers crossed.


I just picked up a blacklite as well. Still sitting in the box waiting to find a little time to install it. I have been debating between the reverb and blacklite for close to a month. Finally decided to pull the trigger for something more reliable. It was $50 cheaper too ($275 vs $325). Plus, I couldnt find any place that had the new 2012 Reverb and I couldnt wait any longer.

I will post my review in a week or so once I get a few rides on the Blacklite.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Jai said:


> I really hate to read that
> I've just ordered a Blacklite from USA (and it wasn't easy because of Specialized dealer territory agreements) while I could get a Reverb locally in Chile. Based on what I've read here it seems to me that the command is more reliable, second best after GD.
> I hope I'm right, fingers crossed.


You might be right. My Reverb is currently in for service. Even so, there's nothing that even comes close to the feel of the Reverb when it's working. It's so much easier to drop the post quickly before a tough section. I could push it with my pinky if I wanted to, and I can set it anywhere. The Command Post takes a bit more planning/effort, especially if you're trying to find that middle position. I'm comfortable dropping the Reverb in the middle of a steep, technical section. The Command Post I feel like I need to make sure to get it down before I enter it.

I like them both for different reasons, and while I do feel the Command Post might be more reliable in the long run, the Reverb is a Ferrari while the Command Post is a Ford truck.


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## kcvpr (Jan 7, 2011)

I got my blacklight a month or so ago..... And I freaking love it!!!! Took my riding to a whole new level. It's quite amazing what being able to get your self lower on the bike because your seat isn't in the way can do for your confidence.



The fact that I got it at dealer pricing probably helped alot though.... Hahah


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

BaeckerX1 said:


> 1 of the below, or a combination of:
> 
> 1. Air pressure too low. Perhaps you're getting an inaccurate reading. You might already know this, but you need to set the pressure with the post at full extension.
> 2. Cable tension not high enough and not releasing the post collet all the way.
> ...


Actually, I didn't know you had to set the pressure at full extension. (I just RTFM again, and now I see that part.) I can't remember what position the the post was at when I set it to 30. I pulled it off to check, and it was 40 psi at full extension. I dribbled a little chain lube on the inner tube, checked the cable tension, double checked the seatpost clamp, and cycled it several times. It will now move on its own from the middle top about 50% of the time (which is an improvement over the previous 0%). It seems to move on its own from position 2 to 3 more often when you quickly stab the lever as opposed to pressing it slowly. I haven't had a chance to go for another ride yet, but I think it'll start working better once it's broken in.


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## Lost Biker (Jun 7, 2009)

Wheeldog said:


> Could someone who has installed one of the Blacklites post a photo of the lever / cable housing / barrel adjuster arrangement? I am putting one of the 100 mm versions on my bike and I'm questioning the arrangement near the lever. There is a long piece made of soft rubber that has me scratching my head - I don't see it in the instructions and can't figure where it's supposed to go. They also seem to have shorted me on ferrules.
> 
> Thanks.


I just finished my installation and after running into this same issue, I gave Specialized customer service a call. They told me the soft rubber "missle" piece can be discarded. It was intended to be installed near the 90deg noodle but never worked well. Also, I was short a ferrule as well. I asked customer service and they are sending me (2) ferrules at no charge. I currently have a homemade ferrule in place where the cable meets the seat post. Its holding up but good to know Specialized is taking care of their customers. :thumbsup:


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## 274898 (Nov 29, 2005)

Looks nice. However, I think they may be a step behind KS and Rockshox. Both companies have some new innovative designs that look really good. 

When the bike frame companies really start to have cable routing through the frame and have the routing of the posts totally hidden like Rockshox new models, then adjustable posts will be on most bikes.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

aliikane said:


> Looks nice. However,* I think they may be a step behind KS and Rockshox*. Both companies have some new innovative designs that look really good.
> 
> When the bike frame companies really start to have cable routing through the frame and have the routing of the posts totally hidden like Rockshox new models, then adjustable posts will be on most bikes.


Sometimes, simple is better.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

GD vs. the Blacklite ? 

I'm on the fence leaning toward the Blacklight (125 x 30.9) but looks like Spec is out. Anyone know where I can find one - a shop that would be willing to ship?

Had the GD for years as soon as they came out and really liked it and was going that way but I don't like the way the routing sticks out of the post. 

I find that the ergonomics of the "lever" is pretty important. The GD level was OK - easy to push, but protruded pretty far from the bar making it prone to taking hits (though I never really did end up really damaging it.) The Blacklite switch seems far better in this regard as it's nicely tucked away - but, assuming its set up correctly, is it relatively easy to position on the bar and easy to push? The best post mechanism means little if the bar mounted lever is user un-friendly.

Thanks.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Oh yeah, how 'bout the Rockshox Reverb? From what I hear it has major reliability issues.


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## Torwood (Apr 25, 2011)

just about to order a Blacklight for my Mojo HD. 
been looking at either it or a KS, can get the Blacklight from my LBS which is reassuring

can't quite make my mind up......


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## Kendo (Jul 2, 2005)

Judging by the reviews it sounds like there is no movement "play" issues with the seatpost. Unfortunately it appears my 100mm dropper I installed last night does. When in the middle dropper setting I have roughly 1/16" vertical play. The actual play isn't the issue to me it is the very audible clunk when you weight and unweight the post. Anybody have this issue?
I am taking it for it first real ride now so I will see how big of an issue it is during trail riding. Likely be heading back to the bike shop where I bought it for their opinion.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Play - as far as I've heard all of these posts will have some degree of "play". The GD is reportedly the worst. I had GDs way back when, and yes, there was play that was easily felt when moving the post by hand in the garage. On the trail I never felt it, or at least it was a non-issue. This is coming from someone who is driven absolutely nuts by the smallest creak, misalignment, or "play". The moment a DU bushing develops play I can feel it and have to change it - I have a tool and a stash of DU bushings. Point is, for what ever reason, the play in the GD (supposedly the worst) was never noticed out on the trail.


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## Kendo (Jul 2, 2005)

After trying it on the trail it is not an issue. As mentioned earlier it was not the minimal play that bothered me but the noise. However on the trail any noise from the seat post is easily masked by drive train and the tires rolling over the ground. 

I admit I can still hear the post "clunk" when riding on paved road but to achieve this means I need to drop my post to the middle position and then raise and lower my but off the seat and this is an abnormal situation.

BTW In comparison to my GD, that I rode for the last 5 years, this post is smoother and it is much easier to hit the middle position. The lever is nicer looking and easier to operate as well. I had no operational gripes with the GD and it was extremely dependable; the biggest reason I went to the blacklite was I needed a set back post for my new bike.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Kendo said:


> Judging by the reviews it sounds like there is no movement "play" issues with the seatpost. Unfortunately it appears my 100mm dropper I installed last night does. When in the middle dropper setting I have roughly 1/16" vertical play. The actual play isn't the issue to me it is the very audible clunk when you weight and unweight the post. Anybody have this issue?
> I am taking it for it first real ride now so I will see how big of an issue it is during trail riding. Likely be heading back to the bike shop where I bought it for their opinion.


I don't think it is normal to have any play and any noise in any position with the command post. My does not have any play at all once it is locked into position. The only sound I get is when the internal collet locks into position I get a click.
Are u sure the cable is installed correctly? Too much tension in the cable might cause the collet to not lock completely and cause play and clunking. Otherwise you might have gotten a bad one and I would definitely take it back for exchange


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## Kendo (Jul 2, 2005)

Thanks for the feedback pwu_1. Cable is good and here is no tension on the cable when the lever is not being engaged. If it was a cable issue I would expect to have issues at the min and max setting as well, which I am not. I guess I will take it back to the bike shop and see what they say.


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## Redley78 (Mar 22, 2010)

Does anyone know if you can buy just the remote for this system?
I have 2 bikes i want to use this post on, but i dont want to remove the whole system every time i want to switch bikes.


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## Kaliman (Sep 22, 2009)

Redley78 said:


> Does anyone know if you can buy just the remote for this system?
> I have 2 bikes i want to use this post on, but i dont want to remove the whole system every time i want to switch bikes.


I'm pretty sure you can. That is the whole point of the quick release system.


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## Jai (Nov 7, 2010)

BaeckerX1 said:


> You might be right. My Reverb is currently in for service. Even so, there's nothing that even comes close to the feel of the Reverb when it's working. It's so much easier to drop the post quickly before a tough section. I could push it with my pinky if I wanted to, and I can set it anywhere. The Command Post takes a bit more planning/effort, especially if you're trying to find that middle position. I'm comfortable dropping the Reverb in the middle of a steep, technical section. The Command Post I feel like I need to make sure to get it down before I enter it.
> 
> I like them both for different reasons, and while I do feel the Command Post might be more reliable in the long run, the Reverb is a Ferrari while the Command Post is a Ford truck.


After two months with the Blacklite, and haven't tried a Reverb, it seems that now I fully understand your comments.
I find myself dropping the blacklite before any steep/technical section cause I know I won't be able to drop it in the middle, and I blame the lever (a bit too hard to push) and the fact that I have to drop it until I feel the "click".
That said, my Blacklite has been working flawlessly: it hasn't developed any play and feels absolutely rock solid. If it fails during an epic ride it's very likely that I'll be able of locking it in its higher position and keep going on. That adds lots of confidence, actually I trust my Blacklite as much as I trust my brakes or...my frame. Couldn't be happier with it :thumbsup:


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## griffter18 (Jul 3, 2009)

Remote is available seperately from your speci dealer for about £20.
From personal experience I still think the level is the weak part of the whole untit as its pivot is a tiny bar and the alloy wears fast.
Ive looked at the other alternatives Joplin/Crank & HKS and they are either just as weak or in the case of the HKS a bit too over engineered which makes it stick out miles from the bar.
The one I do like the look of is the new Giant Switch. The remote seems better positioned but the pivot is still thin.
I guess the only alternative is to make one.


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

Jai said:


> After two months with the Blacklite, and haven't tried a Reverb, it seems that now I fully understand your comments.
> I find myself dropping the blacklite before any steep/technical section cause I know I won't be able to drop it in the middle, and I blame the lever (a bit too hard to push) and the fact that I have to drop it until I feel the "click".
> That said, my Blacklite has been working flawlessly: it hasn't developed any play and feels absolutely rock solid. If it fails during an epic ride it's very likely that I'll be able of locking it in its higher position and keep going on. That adds lots of confidence, actually I trust my Blacklite as much as I trust my brakes or...my frame. Couldn't be happier with it :thumbsup:


I would echo these comments as well. After being finicky initially, my Blacklite is working great and I have a high degree of confidence in it. While it's not difficult to operate per se, it does require some mental and physical dexterity to operate, I could see how the push-button Reverb would be easier. Not a big deal just cruising along, but when my brain is in an oxygen-deprived state, I have botched saddle drops and have mistaken the dropper lever for the rapidfire lever.


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## matt00mck (Jan 16, 2011)

zuuds said:


> I would echo these comments as well. After being finicky initially, my Blacklite is working great and I have a high degree of confidence in it. While it's not difficult to operate per se, it does require some mental and physical dexterity to operate, I could see how the push-button Reverb would be easier. Not a big deal just cruising along, but when my brain is in an oxygen-deprived state, I have botched saddle drops and have mistaken the dropper lever for the rapidfire lever.


I hear that. I occasionally mistime the release of the lever and the seat follows me back up. :madman:


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

After deciding that this was the adjustable post I wanted, I called my local (ABQ, NM, USA) Specialized dealer to inquire about ordering one. All three 30.9 sizes are "out of stock" on the Specialized website.

Local dealer #1 told me that the 125mm post I wanted wasn't going to be available until....get this....APRIL 20, 2012. I couldn't believe it. Called another local Specialized dealer and confirmed. Called Specialized Customer Support and confirmed none are available, but wouldn't give a availability date nor a reason why.

I'm told that the 100mm posts MIGHT be more available, but I'm not sure I want one of those.

I may just end up with the Giant Contact Switch which is about $100 cheaper anyway. Only 4-inches of travel, and infinitely adjustable. Or maybe back to the Reverb.


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## Wheelspinn (Aug 7, 2011)

madmossy said:


> Looks like a rebranded X-Fusion Hilo 100 to me or atleast very very close to one.


Except the Hilo is hydraulic and the command post is mechanical, and was designed in house by Mike mcAndrews and the R&D team at specialized.


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## Wheelspinn (Aug 7, 2011)

:eekster:


pwu_1 said:


> X-Fusion Hilo is hydraulic with infinite position. The Specialized is mechanical with 3 preset position so they are completely different.


Oh... I was on page one. You got it handled.


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## Wheelspinn (Aug 7, 2011)

Porschefan said:


> After deciding that this was the adjustable post I wanted, I called my local (ABQ, NM, USA) Specialized dealer to inquire about ordering one. All three 30.9 sizes are "out of stock" on the Specialized website.
> 
> Local dealer #1 told me that the 125mm post I wanted wasn't going to be available until....get this....APRIL 20, 2012. I couldn't believe it. Called another local Specialized dealer and confirmed. Called Specialized Customer Support and confirmed none are available, but wouldn't give a availability date nor a reason why.
> 
> ...


I got mine from wheel world.com last week.... Try them maybe. The 125 too.


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

Wheelspinn said:


> I got mine from wheel world.com last week.... Try them maybe. The 125 too.


Thanks for the tip. I checked their site and it says they are in stock in their Culver City (probably California?) store and that they can only sell to someone who actually walks in the store. Is that what you did? They are out of stock at their warehouse and another location, and per the site their distributor requires them to sell only to "live" customers.

Also, I'm not sure whether this is the 2012 "Blacklite" or the earlier "plain" Command Posts?

If anyone knows where to get one, let me know. Otherwise I'll probably settle for the Giant Contact Switch for $200.

Here's the link to Wheelworld:

Wheelworld

Thanks again for the tip!


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## Jai (Nov 7, 2010)

Porschefan said:


> After deciding that this was the adjustable post I wanted, I called my local (ABQ, NM, USA) Specialized dealer to inquire about ordering one. All three 30.9 sizes are "out of stock" on the Specialized website.
> 
> Local dealer #1 told me that the 125mm post I wanted wasn't going to be available until....get this....APRIL 20, 2012. I couldn't believe it. Called another local Specialized dealer and confirmed. Called Specialized Customer Support and confirmed none are available, but wouldn't give a availability date nor a reason why.
> 
> ...


Try with Art's Cyclery, I'm in Chile and got mine from them.


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

Jai said:


> Try with Art's Cyclery, I'm in Chile and got mine from them.


Thanks, Jai. They have the 100mm version. I'm pretty new, so I'm wondering whether I really need the 125mm version, or would I be happy with 100mm? I'm 6', ride a 2010 Yeti ASR 5, Large frame.


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## Jai (Nov 7, 2010)

Porschefan said:


> Thanks, Jai. They have the 100mm version. I'm pretty new, so I'm wondering whether I really need the 125mm version, or would I be happy with 100mm? I'm 6', ride a 2010 Yeti ASR 5, Large frame.


I can't answer yes or no ... it's a very personal decision. I've got the 125 mm version (intense tracer, large, same height as you, long legged) only because I thought I would need 425mm from top to bottom, but I'm pretty sure that if the travel had been 100mm I would be as happy as I'm now with 125. At least for me, a 100mm drop is more than enough.
Give them a call anyway, maybe they have the 125 version (I'm not sure if their website showed that they had it in stock when I bought it)


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

Jai said:


> I can't answer yes or no ... it's a very personal decision. I've got the 125 mm version (intense tracer, large, same height as you, long legged) only because I thought I would need 425mm from top to bottom, but I'm pretty sure that if the travel had been 100mm I would be as happy as I'm now with 125. At least for me, a 100mm drop is more than enough.
> Give them a call anyway, maybe they have the 125 version (I'm not sure if their website showed that they had it in stock when I bought it)


Seems like the 125mm size is just not available, unless I get lucky and someone lets me know of a bike shop or online vendor that has one.

I flirted with getting a 2012 RS Reverb, but they seem to be just asking for a headache--nice post, though.

Now I'm considering getting a used or possible NOS (new old stock) "Command Post" -- pre-Blacklite. I know the Blacklite weighs less, but are they any other features that I would really be missing if I compromise and get the older version?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Porschefan said:


> Seems like the 125mm size is just not available, unless I get lucky and someone lets me know of a bike shop or online vendor that has one.
> 
> I flirted with getting a 2012 RS Reverb, but those things just seem to asking for a headache.
> 
> Now I'm considering getting a used or possible NOS (new old stock) "Command Post" -- pre-Blacklite. I know the Blacklite weighs less, but are they any other features that I would really be missing if I compromise and get the older version?


I have the old Command post I bought used on Ebay. I love mine. Haven't had any problems with it so far


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

TwoTone said:


> I have the old Command post I bought used on Ebay. I love mine. Haven't had any problems with it so far


Good to hear....I'll keep my eyes peeled for a good used one too.


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## [email protected] (Aug 10, 2008)

I had 3 Joplins and I am on my 4th Reverb. Next stop is the Blacklite.


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## griffter18 (Jul 3, 2009)

Why not contact the Specialized Head office in your area.
They were very helpful sourcing one for me and were able to advise which suppliers actually had them in stock and provide contact details.


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

griffter18 said:


> Why not contact the Specialized Head office in your area.
> They were very helpful sourcing one for me and were able to advise which suppliers actually had them in stock and provide contact details.


I called Specialized "headquarters" and they weren't particularly helpful. None in stock (125mm version). I've called about 8 dealers/internet shops and all are out. Some are saying Nov-Dec instead of April though.


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## Lost Biker (Jun 7, 2009)

I am 5'-7" and bought the 125mm blacklite. In hindsight i should of gotten the 100 mm version. Currently installed with the collar at the seat post clamp. This is fine for climbing. But when descending i feel its too low. Feels like sitting on a bmx.


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

Lost Biker said:


> I am 5'-7" and bought the 125mm blacklite. In hindsight i should of gotten the 100 mm version. Currently installed with the collar at the seat post clamp. This is fine for climbing. But when descending i feel its too low. Feels like sitting on a bmx.


I don't think it's meant to be sat on when fully slammed?? Isn't the idea to just get it out of the way so you can get your weight low and back as you balance on the pedals descending?


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## Lost Biker (Jun 7, 2009)

Not all descents are steep so there are occasions where i am seated at the lowest command post position.


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## Der Juicen (Oct 7, 2010)

Lost Biker said:


> Not all descents are steep so there are occasions where i am seated at the lowest command post position.


you always have that middle position to use...

also, the specialized dealer site is saying early december for the 125mm version, and late november for the 75mm and 100mm. there are plenty 31.6x75/100 available, and the 125mm "should" also be available early december.

time frames are just an estimate, not exact science


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## Lovamelin (Oct 27, 2011)

Looks great. Might get one for my specialized rockhopper...hmmmm


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## boblepesh1 (May 16, 2010)

i just got mine from my local dealer who sourced it from a specialized dealer rep type person, it is all brand new but there is noticable play when twisting the saddle side to side, i can see the inner tube moving side to side very slightly within the outer part of the post. my bike came with a regular command post which had no play whatsoever, i am wondering if i should get another blacklite or if this is normal? It was a headache to install and i realize they are very difficult to get a hold of so can someone with a blacklite provide feedback?


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

boblepesh1 said:


> i just got mine from my local dealer who sourced it from a specialized dealer rep type person, it is all brand new but there is noticable play when twisting the saddle side to side, i can see the inner tube moving side to side very slightly within the outer part of the post. my bike came with a regular command post which had no play whatsoever, i am wondering if i should get another blacklite or if this is normal? It was a headache to install and i realize they are very difficult to get a hold of so can someone with a blacklite provide feedback?


That doesn't sound normal. My blacklite post has no side to side play at all.


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## thefriar (Jan 23, 2008)

No play on mine either.

RE: two levers... tricker to set it up that just switch whole thing back and forth if you're not cutting zip ties every time...


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I just picked up a brand new 125mm Blacklight but I haven't installed it yet. I have a 2011 Stumpjumper FSR and a 2011 Rockhopper 29er. I was thinking of buying a 2nd lever/cable and swapping the post between the bikes, but I'm not sure how difficult that would be and if the cable needs to be setup perfect or what. Any thoughts on if it is something that would be easy to do, or not worth the hassle?


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## boblepesh1 (May 16, 2010)

so i went back to the shop today and they had just gotten a shipment of 30.9s in all three sizes so they let me swap mine out for a new one. still some play but probably only half as much or less than before. the original command feels far more secure as far as play goes but i guess thats what you give up for the weight savings. I will say that the blacklite extends much more smoothly and the new remote/barrel adjuster is a welcome addition.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I got my post installed last night. One ride and I already love it and the blacklite post is really good looking too. I cant wait to really test it out this weekend.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Got the Blacklite mongths ago and have ridden it alot since. 

It's the real deal. Zero regrets and even better than the GD.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I've had a few rides with the Command post and I absolutely love it! Best upgrade I've done to the bike.


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## Wheelspinn (Aug 7, 2011)

*Specialized, what the F*

Iv had a 125mm travel, 31.6 blacklite on order for my trek remedy since mid October. They just pushed the release back to December! I tried one on my brothers enduro and can't believed I rode without one. Thanks to specialized I'm still riding without one. Thought about getting a reverb instead, but heard there not as reliable...


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I got tired of waiting for them to get back in stock too. My LBS got two in, but they were both the 75mm versions. I ended up having my LBS see if anyone buying a 2012 bike that had a blacklite post wanted to sell it. It didnt take long before a customer bought a 2012 Stumpy and didn't want the post. He was more than happy to take $180 for it, and it had never been installed so it was basically a new post and it came with the gray lever instead of the red one.


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## Buddha43 (Oct 10, 2011)

is there a size chart somewhere that has info on which post is the correect size for the rider?

I have a 2011 Stumpy FSR comp (med)
Im 5'9" and ride with the standard Specialized post set at the 5.5 mark.

I kinda jump the gun on a 125mm Blacklite post from a member here that had one for sale at a great price. I started researching it after I bought it (I know, not wise) and have not found too much on sizing, I hope its gonna be alright for me.

Any thoughts?


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## Buddha43 (Oct 10, 2011)

Never mind, just looked up the specs from Specialized site, shows mediums are sold with the 125mm post, only the small frames for 100mm post.


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## vic06 (Nov 24, 2010)

FYI, the 125mm model is back in stock as of Dec. 1st.


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## V.P. (Aug 26, 2007)

Can someone put the 125mm Blacklight on a scale? (including cables)


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

It looks like all the posts are instock except for the 30.9 125mm post.


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## Der Juicen (Oct 7, 2010)

People must have jumped all over them, an hour ago they were not showing as (out of stock) on the website


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## e-luder (Mar 25, 2008)

anyone have a 100mm (30.9) they want to trade for a 125mm?. Not entirely sure this will happen but checking to see.


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

*OK Ive had my command post for around 15 good rides and today FAIL:madmax::madmax:
keeps dropping by its self... it has plenty of play in the cable and pressure at 35, Time to see how good the warranty works, looks like I will have to buy a backup post to get me by, :cryin:*


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## Buddha43 (Oct 10, 2011)

I just received my post today (bought new from a member here), took about a half hour to install and off I went for a nice 18 mile night ride on various terrain. The thing is pretty bad ass, no stopping to lower and raise the seat, just a nice continuous non-stop ride. The post works perfectly, no adjustments after set up, just a little more air is all it took. Im stoked on it and the price I paid for it, definitely a rad compliment/upgrade to my bike (2011 SJ FSR comp).


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## 9.8m/s/s (Sep 26, 2005)

Rakuman said:


> *OK Ive had my command post for around 15 good rides and today FAIL:madmax::madmax:
> keeps dropping by its self... it has plenty of play in the cable and pressure at 35, Time to see how good the warranty works, looks like I will have to buy a backup post to get me by, :cryin:*


I blew mine out last weekend riding also. It still locked perfectly in all three positions, but the air was totally gone. Brought it back to the shop on Saturday. They spoke to Specialized Monday and Specialized said it sounded like an o- ring problem. They shipped it off and it is currently in transit (hopefully on it's way back now). If anyone is interested I'll follow up once I get get back and finish the whole process.


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## vic06 (Nov 24, 2010)

Rakuman said:


> *OK Ive had my command post for around 15 good rides and today FAIL:madmax::madmax:
> keeps dropping by its self... it has plenty of play in the cable and pressure at 35, Time to see how good the warranty works, looks like I will have to buy a backup post to get me by, :cryin:*


Before you send it back, I'd take a second look at the cable, if you haven't yet. Looks like a sticky cable needs to be lubricated and/or double check that the gap between the cable housing and the barrel at the seat end is 17mm. The manual has a maintenance and troubleshooting section that might fix the problem without having to send it for service.


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

vic06 said:


> Before you send it back, I'd take a second look at the cable, if you haven't yet. Looks like a sticky cable needs to be lubricated and/or double check that the gap between the cable housing and the barrel at the seat end is 17mm. The manual has a maintenance and troubleshooting section that might fix the problem without having to send it for service.


* The first thing I looked for is a sticky cable or to much tension. Its not the cable I wrench bikes and I know what to look for I even disconnected the cable after about 10 unintentional drops and it still dropped, my dealer pretty much knew what was wrong and its internal I will get it back from specialized in a week. thanks for the info thou I know you are just trying to help.:thumbsup:*


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## vic06 (Nov 24, 2010)

Rakuman said:


> * The first thing I looked for is a sticky cable or to much tension. Its not the cable I wrench bikes and I know what to look for I even disconnected the cable after about 10 unintentional drops and it still dropped, my dealer pretty much knew what was wrong and its internal I will get it back from specialized in a week. thanks for the info thou I know you are just trying to help.:thumbsup:*


Ugh, at least the dealer knew what the problem was and the turnaround is quick. I got mine on Friday and I have only one ride on mine, fingers crossed.


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## Atomik Carbon (Jan 4, 2004)

Well the verdict is in........there is no trouble free adjustable seatpost. Luck of the draw. Just choose one that has a good warranty and get used to sending it back. Make sure you keep a backup straight seatpost for those occasions.


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## King Seabass (Dec 12, 2011)

I ride a lot in the mountains on some serious terrain and it has changes my life.


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## pgh01 (Jun 23, 2009)

*Blacklite*

I have the 125 versions on each of my two bikes, one since it was first available and one for about 3 months. I ride 4-6 times a month and have had no problems with operation. I agree with some of the comments that the lever can be a bit awkward, but I seem to have gotten used to it. I clearly have more confidence on descents as a result. The only issue I have had was not being able to tighten the seat enough to prevent the seat from rotating (nose popping up) periodically, even though I was tightening way over spec. Problem seems to have been solved with use of a bit of carbon paste. Other than that, so far they have been great!


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

Rakuman said:


> * The first thing I looked for is a sticky cable or to much tension. Its not the cable I wrench bikes and I know what to look for I even disconnected the cable after about 10 unintentional drops and it still dropped, my dealer pretty much knew what was wrong and its internal I will get it back from specialized in a week. thanks for the info thou I know you are just trying to help.:thumbsup:*


*Update Spesh Is sending a new replacement post.*


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I've had mine for 6 weeks and I love it! It might be the best upgrade I've put on my bike.


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## Der Juicen (Oct 7, 2010)

Is everybodys blacklite post lever able to be used as the clamp for specialized grips? I thought that was one of the nice features i was looking forward too. When the demo truck was at the shop i work for all command post levers were he grip clamp, i built a stumpy early last week and the grip was mounted the same way out of the box with a regular grip clamp in the extras baggy. I opened up my post today and went to install it only to find the clamp was just like the frirst generation command post. This totally screws with my control set up, even with elixr 7/ x7shifter/ with matchmaker. I cant get the lever in the position i want without hitting my shifters. What are the mount options everyone has with there levers.


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## Wheelspinn (Aug 7, 2011)

As stated in the instruction manual, the grip clamp is an OEM application. As in, it is included as an OEM part on bikes that ship from specialized with command posts installed as original equipment. When the post is bought as an accessory, the bar clamp lever is included.


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## Der Juicen (Oct 7, 2010)

Ok, so maybe i should have read through those,but still on the website the pictures of the post shows the grip clamp and doesnt state otherwise. Doesnt make sense why they would make 2 different clamps. OEM comes wi a hard rubber shim to use it on the bar for those not using speshy grips. Ok, my rant is over, time to call the rep.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

So I've had my command post blacklite since beginning of May. The post has been trouble free for me except lately I started to feel like the lever is getting harder and harder to push(but I have bad memory so I can't remember if it has always been like this). To the point now it kind of hurts my thumb to activate it. Anyway, to make a long story short, I must of gotten water into the cable/housing cuz the cable was looking pretty bad when I took it out. Also, I decided to remove the noodle while replacing the cable to see if that was causing some binding. With the new cable and the noodle removed the lever is so easy to push I'm kicking myself for not doing it sooner.
Anyway, if anyone else is having issues with the lever being hard to push might want to check the cable and try removing the noodle.


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

Buddha43 said:


> I just received my post today (bought new from a member here), took about a half hour to install and off I went for a nice 18 mile night ride on various terrain. The thing is pretty bad ass, no stopping to lower and raise the seat, just a nice continuous non-stop ride. The post works perfectly, no adjustments after set up, just a little more air is all it took. Im stoked on it and the price I paid for it, definitely a rad compliment/upgrade to my bike (2011 SJ FSR comp).


Is the 125mm a perfect fit for your height?


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## Der Juicen (Oct 7, 2010)

anthonylokrn said:


> Is the 125mm a perfect fit for your height?


At 6' with long legs ridng a large enduro the 125 command post is exactly he same height when lowered as my stock rigid post dropped all the way. Stock poat was at min insert line when up, command post is at about the 9 hash mark. I would like he post lower more just for feel when grabbing it closer to my knees, but it works. I may try a ks spernatural in the future for kicks, but not stressing over it.


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## Wheelspinn (Aug 7, 2011)

I'm 6'2 and definitely not want anything shorter then 125. Actually, if they made a 150 I would prefer that.


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## DanoC33 (Nov 22, 2011)

*Anyone know any good place to buy a 30.9 / 125 post?*

Hey all-

I would like to add this post to my 2012 StumpJumper FSR Comp 29er, however I am having a hard time locating one for a decent price. The Specialized website is out of stock and my local dealers either dont have one or they are asking $300 plus for the ones they do have in stock.

Any suggestions on who to call for a post?


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

DanoC33 said:


> Hey all-
> 
> I would like to add this post to my 2012 StumpJumper FSR Comp 29er, however I am having a hard time locating one for a decent price. The Specialized website is out of stock and my local dealers either dont have one or they are asking $300 plus for the ones they do have in stock.
> 
> Any suggestions on who to call for a post?


*Nomad, Specialized DJ, Industry Nine, Command Post, Brooks - SocalTrailRiders.org Classifieds
This guys got a new one for $200 jump on this quik:thumbsup:*


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## Buddha43 (Oct 10, 2011)

anthonylokrn said:


> Is the 125mm a perfect fit for your height?


Yep! Im 5'9" tall and ride a medium 11 FSR comp. The post has works perfectly since initial set up.


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## Dennison55 (Jan 1, 2012)

Is the speacilized rockchopper any good? 29er?


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

DanoC33 said:


> Hey all-
> 
> I would like to add this post to my 2012 StumpJumper FSR Comp 29er, however I am having a hard time locating one for a decent price. The Specialized website is out of stock and my local dealers either dont have one or they are asking $300 plus for the ones they do have in stock.
> 
> Any suggestions on who to call for a post?


Ouch. That some crappy dealers you have in your area. I have a 100x31.6mm on order via my lbs for $175.


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## DanoC33 (Nov 22, 2011)

anthonylokrn said:


> Ouch. That some crappy dealers you have in your area. I have a 100x31.6mm on order via my lbs for $175.


I agree. I may go with a Reverb post if finding a Blacklite does not pan out!


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## baileyessalexie (Oct 21, 2011)

*Help!*

75 or 100mm for a small Specialized Epic 29er?


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## vic06 (Nov 24, 2010)

baileyessalexie said:


> 75 or 100mm for a small Specialized Epic 29er?


I posted a picture of a 100mm extended next to a tape measure and the absolute lengths of all three in this other thread 
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=8795641
We were talking about different bikes and sizes, but you might still find it useful.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

baileyessalexie said:


> 75 or 100mm for a small Specialized Epic 29er?


First, measure your current seatpost to see how much of it is exposed. Measure from the seat rail to the top of the seat tube.
Then, try to push the seatpost all the way into your seat tube to see if you can do that. Some bikes have interrupted seat tube which doesn't allow the seatpost to go all the way down. 
If you have at least 6.5 inches of seatpost exposed, and you can put 8.5 inches of the seat post into the seat tube, then you can use either the 75mm or 100mm post.
If you have between 5.5 inches and 6.5 inches exposed and you can put about 7.5 inches of the seat post into the seat tube, then you will need the 75mm post. 
If you have less than 5.5 inches exposed, then neither one will work. If your frame has an interrupted seat tube then you'll need to take some measurements to figure out which post will work. Hope that helps


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## Der Juicen (Oct 7, 2010)

Wheelspinn said:


> I'm 6'2 and definitely not want anything shorter then 125. Actually, if they made a 150 I would prefer that.


i am 6' and with the 125mm i feel like i would like the seat to drop lower

the kind shock supernatural is available in 150mm and i may end up buying one of them to try out whenever i get the chance.


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## Corvette (Nov 20, 2005)

baileyessalexie said:


> 75 or 100mm for a small Specialized Epic 29er?


I know it's a different beast, but the small Enduro SL takes the 100 mm post just barely in.


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## Drunkindonuts (Dec 4, 2010)

Got my first real ride in with my new Blacklite. What a difference. Its like I gained 5 extra inches of travel. I guess I did but in my legs. So far it has a little side to side play and was making some awful creaking noises towards the end of the ride. Im guessing re-grease the post and the clamps for the seat.


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## BertoManfred (Jul 5, 2011)

anybody find out what the black rubber piece is for? still cant figure it out


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## griffter18 (Jul 3, 2009)

Its a noodle.
It goes on the end of the cable to protect the end instead of a crimp.
It tends to fall off so get a crimp and put the rubber bit in the bin


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## Wheelspinn (Aug 7, 2011)

The installation manual calls the 90 degree curved metal tube next to the control switch the noodle. Im pretty sure that the cable passes through it ,under one of the end caps for water resistance... Just not sure which one... I installed mine in the trash can.


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## Lost Biker (Jun 7, 2009)

BertoManfred said:


> anybody find out what the black rubber piece is for? still cant figure it out


If you are referring to the rubber piece shaped like a rocket, you can disregard it. I had the same question and contacted Specialized tech support. They said just throw it out. So i did. My command post works fine for 9 months now.


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## ROAD WARRIOR (Jan 9, 2005)

So even Specialized doesn't know what it's for; I don't feel so stupid now.


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## Lost Biker (Jun 7, 2009)

Its been a while but I recall they told me it was used in the original command post install kit. It was added to the blacklite kit but not needed as the new blacklite doesnt use it.


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## NotQuiteClimbing (Jul 26, 2010)

My wife saw the mini rubber rocket condom part sitting on my desk and said, "great install job, you left off a piece". Specialized, you made me look like an ass.


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## Redley78 (Mar 22, 2010)

I was on a ride and all the sudden my seatpost wouldn't spring back up. It was stuck in the lower position until i moved it back up manually, which it stayed at that height until i pressed the remote lever again. I thought great, here we go, ive had it for 5 months and the rumors are true. This is just another seatpost that fails after about 30-40 rides. 
When i got home and inspected it, i saw that the seatpost "collet" was loose. In the end, this piece being loose must have allowed air to escape from the chamber. All it took to fix was hand tighten this piece and use my shock pump to get it back up to 30psi. It is good as new! I love my blacklite!


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## Pike14 (Mar 22, 2011)

Redley78 said:


> I was on a ride and all the sudden my seatpost wouldn't spring back up. It was stuck in the lower position until i moved it back up manually, which it stayed at that height until i pressed the remote lever again. I thought great, here we go, ive had it for 5 months and the rumors are true. This is just another seatpost that fails after about 30-40 rides.
> When i got home and inspected it, i saw that the seatpost "collet" was loose. In the end, this piece being loose must have allowed air to escape from the chamber. All it took to fix was hand tighten this piece and use my shock pump to get it back up to 30psi. It is good as new! I love my blacklite!


Haven't had my Blacklight for as long, but this thing saved my bikes life! Using it has really be such a pleasure. No problems this far, and I have the confidence to believe that if I do run up against anything (similar to what you did), it'll be a quick fix that I can do on my own. Thumbs up for sure!


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## eric (Jan 22, 2004)

Kendo said:


> Judging by the reviews it sounds like there is no movement "play" issues with the seatpost. Unfortunately it appears my 100mm dropper I installed last night does. When in the middle dropper setting I have roughly 1/16" vertical play. The actual play isn't the issue to me it is the very audible clunk when you weight and unweight the post. Anybody have this issue?
> I am taking it for it first real ride now so I will see how big of an issue it is during trail riding. Likely be heading back to the bike shop where I bought it for their opinion.


Sorry for the old post revival, but I'm wondering: how did this eventually pan out? I have one ride on my Blacklite, and it has the same play + clunk you describe. I won't be able to get the thing to a dealer for weeks, and certainly not in time for the next trip.

Thanks for the info!


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## NotQuiteClimbing (Jul 26, 2010)

There's no play in my black lite. I had one ride on one and it was clearly busted. Mike's Bikes just swapped it out. I would think if it was within 30 days your LBS would do the same.


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## eric (Jan 22, 2004)

Okay, guess I'll take it in to the dealer when I'm back. As this defaults to a distributor warranty claim it will take weeks anyway, so I guess there's no rush. Was just wondering (hoping) the 1/16" of vertical play was a feature, not a bug


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## cruzean (Jun 12, 2007)

*seat creeps all the way back, any ideas?*

This is the only post I have ever had that the seat slowly creeps all the way back. I have only had the seat rotate in the clamp once and then I took a bit of sandpaper to it to rough up the surfaces and that fixed that problem but I cannot keep the seat form slipping backwards. Anyone else with this problem. I have overtightened it to see if that works but nothing seems to help. Titanium rails on the seat (WTB Rocket V).


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## griffter18 (Jul 3, 2009)

".... seat slowly creeps all the way back" & "I have overtightened it to see if that works"

Dont over tighten the clamp as you will weaken the rails if they are hollow. Check how tight using a torque wrench if possible.
If it still slides check for any oil/grease on the interface and also check that the clamp bolt hasnt come undone.

I had a similar problem on a road bike and it was due to the shape of the rails not matching the clamp so very little contact/grip.
I solve this by putting a small amount of electrical insulation tape on the rails to increase the size and grip. Its worth a try if nothing else is working.


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## Redley78 (Mar 22, 2010)

cruzean said:


> This is the only post I have ever had that the seat slowly creeps all the way back. I have only had the seat rotate in the clamp once and then I took a bit of sandpaper to it to rough up the surfaces and that fixed that problem but I cannot keep the seat form slipping backwards. Anyone else with this problem. I have overtightened it to see if that works but nothing seems to help. Titanium rails on the seat (WTB Rocket V).


I had this problem too. The seat would shift back in the middle of riding a section which was very annoying! 
I repeatedly tighted the bolt with a lot of torque and it would continue to happen. Finally, i was at the point where i was gonna go back to the bike shop for their advice, but i decided to tighten it as much as i could. Its probably never coming off now, but it hasnt moved since.
I know this is not recommended, but it worked for me.


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

cruzean said:


> This is the only post I have ever had that the seat slowly creeps all the way back. I have only had the seat rotate in the clamp once and then I took a bit of sandpaper to it to rough up the surfaces and that fixed that problem but I cannot keep the seat form slipping backwards. Anyone else with this problem. I have overtightened it to see if that works but nothing seems to help. Titanium rails on the seat (WTB Rocket V).


Try some carbon assembly paste on the clamp, I did that from the get-go and haven't had any slippage issues.


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## littleblue (Dec 13, 2007)

I've started experiencing an issue where my post rises but slowly...especially in the second stage (from middle to extended riding position). 

I'm not sure why...I checked the air pressure, it's fine no leaks. Cable is fine. The actuator is moving freely and all the way down into the release position when I use the switch on the handle bar. 

The seatpost clamp is not too tight either. 

I tried lubing the stanchion up but it isn't helping. 

On occasion when I manually cycle the post up down and up with my hands I can feel a bit of grinding in there. Not always, just sometimes. 

Thoughts?


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## Pike14 (Mar 22, 2011)

littleblue said:


> I've started experiencing an issue where my post rises but slowly...especially in the second stage (from middle to extended riding position).
> 
> I'm not sure why...I checked the air pressure, it's fine no leaks. Cable is fine. The actuator is moving freely and all the way down into the release position when I use the switch on the handle bar.
> 
> ...


I've had the same issue. From what I understand from reading the instruction manual, it happens because of the outside temps. When it's lower than 50 degrees F, the oil in the post has a tendency to become "sticky". There's a different weight oil you can get to remedy this problem, but to me it's not worth it with warmer temps right around the corner. With mine, it happened maybe 1 time out of every 20 times I lowered the post. If it doesn't happen when the post is warm (like inside your house) then I wouldn't worry too much about it. 
This is just my experience anyway, if it's really worrying you, take it in to the shop and see what they have to say.


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## kingbozo (Jan 31, 2004)

Pike14 said:


> I've had the same issue. From what I understand from reading the instruction manual, it happens because of the outside temps. When it's lower than 50 degrees F, the oil in the post has a tendency to become "sticky". There's a different weight oil you can get to remedy this problem, but to me it's not worth it with warmer temps right around the corner. With mine, it happened maybe 1 time out of every 20 times I lowered the post. If it doesn't happen when the post is warm (like inside your house) then I wouldn't worry too much about it.
> This is just my experience anyway, if it's really worrying you, take it in to the shop and see what they have to say.


I noticed the exact same issue on mine. Post was rising slowly when the temps were in the thirties. As soon as it got back to room temp it worked flawlessly.


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## littleblue (Dec 13, 2007)

kingbozo said:


> I noticed the exact same issue on mine. Post was rising slowly when the temps were in the thirties. As soon as it got back to room temp it worked flawlessly.


Damn...I'm having this issue in the house and outside...plus I'm in "sunny CA" so my riding temperatures aren't much below 50 degrees.


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## Buddha43 (Oct 10, 2011)

FYI, my BL has had zero issues. I ride every other day 15-20 miles per ride in varying temps, actuate the post multiple times during ride.


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

Rakuman said:


> *Nomad, Specialized DJ, Industry Nine, Command Post, Brooks - SocalTrailRiders.org Classifieds
> This guys got a new one for $200 jump on this quik:thumbsup:*


I know this an old post, but I thought I would add my comment and rant a little bit about Specialized and their policies.

I've been in the market for a dropper seatpost for awhile now and I keep coming back to preferring the Blacklight. However, over the past six months it has been very difficult, if not impossible to get one from the Specialized website or from my local Specialized dealers (2 here in Albuquerque).

In the meantime there have been several take-offs available on various forums and on eBay. The catch on these is that Specialized will NOT cover any of these under warranty. I've called Specialized twice to confirm this.

Additionally, Specialized won't authorize internet sellers to ship their products, so even if you find a dealer who has an internet presence (Art's Cyclery is one) they are limited to selling to walk-in customers only.

I have let Specialized's customer service reps know that I'm not happy with their policy. I guess I could understand/forgive the no-warranty policy if they would at least allow their dealers to sell across the internet. But the reps I've spoken with have pretty clearly had their hands tied and Specialized certainly isn't going to mind they have PO'd one potential customer.

Spring is coming so I'm going to want to get something for the new season, but I'm close to the point of not buying ANYTHING from Specialized, just on principle.

Rant over.....


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

Porschefan said:


> Additionally, Specialized won't authorize internet sellers to ship their products, so even if you find a dealer who has an internet presence (Art's Cyclery is one) they are limited to selling to walk-in customers only.


I bought mine from Art's Cyclery and had it shipped to me.
Used the 15% off coupon code and it ended up being $250 shipped.:thumbsup:


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

mestapho said:


> I bought mine from Art's Cyclery and had it shipped to me.
> Used the 15% off coupon code and it ended up being $250 shipped.:thumbsup:


Thanks for the tip. I'll try calling them again. I spoke with someone there today and he thought he couldn't ship, but wasn't sure. I'll follow up.


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

I just checked and I ordered it on Jan. 4th
The coupon code is SAVE15.

Product Name Order Alloc Price Total
Specialized Blacklite Command Post 30.9x425 1 1 274.99 274.99
15% Off Customer Appreciation Discount 1 1 -41.24 -41.24
Sub Total = 233.75
Sales Tax = 18.12
Ship Via: UPS Ground = 0.00
Payment Method: Visa/Master Card = 251.87


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

Porschefan said:


> I know this an old post, but I thought I would add my comment and rant a little bit about Specialized and their policies.
> 
> I've been in the market for a dropper seatpost for awhile now and I keep coming back to preferring the Blacklight. However, over the past six months it has been very difficult, if not impossible to get one from the Specialized website or from my local Specialized dealers (2 here in Albuquerque).
> 
> ...


Agree- Big S' polices are totally lame. I decided to get a Blacklite when it had just recently come out, and I had to wait several months till my size was in stock. This product has been out for about a year now (?) and Big S still can't produce enough supply to meet demand? That's ghey-tarded.

You should hold out for one with a warranty, dropper posts seem to be one of the most trouble-prone components. Hopefully Fox's D.O.S.S. will be coming out soon, that looks like an attractive alternative to the blacklite, although I'm sure it won't be cheap.

More posts to be hitting the market soon, such as the Kronolog, KS Lev, etc. etc., more competition is a good thing. Big S better get its act together. Doesn't Big S have a saying "innovate or die?"  That being said, I love my blacklite and I would get another one, but I won't wait for months and months next time.


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

mestapho said:


> I just checked and I ordered it on Jan. 4th
> The coupon code is SAVE15.
> 
> 
> ...


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

Porschefan said:


> mestapho said:
> 
> 
> > I just checked and I ordered it on Jan. 4th
> ...


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## griffter18 (Jul 3, 2009)

"Additionally, Specialized won't authorize internet sellers to ship their products, so even if you find a dealer who has an internet presence (Art's Cyclery is one) they are limited to selling to walk-in customers only"

Speci doesnt permit internet sales simply to ensure that all franchises & shops offer a minimum level of service and quality. Thats not a bad thing for the buyer and it also makes sure that the buyer gets the right size bike etc.
I dont think there is any issues with buyers purchasing over the phone and having items shipped though. When I bought my original Command post I contacted Speci Uk as none of the local dealers had them in stock. Speci pointed me in the direction of a dealer they new had stock and recommended shipping.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

griffter18 said:


> Speci doesnt permit internet sales simply to ensure that all franchises & shops offer a minimum level of service and quality. Thats not a bad thing for the buyer and it also makes sure that the buyer gets the right size bike etc.


No, they do not permit that because they are an evil empire who destroy independent shops and compete through lawsuits.


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

*100mm vs. 125mm drops*

I visited the shop where I bought my bike, which is also a Specialized dealer. Turns out they don't have the 125mm version after all. The manager of the bike shop, who is a pretty good guy and very experienced, thought that the 100mm version (which they do have in stock...) would be more than enough for me.

I'm not a real experienced rider but I figured that 125mm would be better, but maybe not? I'm 6' tall and my current seatpost has about 8" exposed from the seat tube to the saddle rails. I've measured and the 125mm post should fit fine. But do I need the extra inch? My main purpose in buying this is to get me used to getting "back" when heading downhill--failure to do so a few months ago led to a fairly serious crash/face plant and broken ribs.

PS: I also asked him about Specialized's policies and whether he would be OK with sending in a post for warranty work if I bought one from someplace on the internet. He told me that Specialized would require a proof-of-purchase and he couldn't do it. Art's Cyclery would ship one, but they don't have the 125mm version either!


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

Porschefan said:


> But do I need the extra inch?


Everybody does. 

Seriously though, I would take as much as your bike/setup would fit. Nice to be able to slam it.


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## FJDan (Dec 27, 2008)

Porschefan said:


> I visited the shop where I bought my bike, which is also a Specialized dealer. Turns out they don't have the 125mm version after all. The manager of the bike shop, who is a pretty good guy and very experienced, thought that the 100mm version (which they do have in stock...) would be more than enough for me.
> 
> I'm not a real experienced rider but I figured that 125mm would be better, but maybe not? I'm 6' tall and my current seatpost has about 8" exposed from the seat tube to the saddle rails. I've measured and the 125mm post should fit fine. But do I need the extra inch? My main purpose in buying this is to get me used to getting "back" when heading downhill--failure to do so a few months ago led to a fairly serious crash/face plant and broken ribs.
> 
> PS: I also asked him about Specialized's policies and whether he would be OK with sending in a post for warranty work if I bought one from someplace on the internet. He told me that Specialized would require a proof-of-purchase and he couldn't do it. Art's Cyclery would ship one, but they don't have the 125mm version either!


I understand your dilemma. HOWEVER, I too agree with the bike shop manager.

I am 6'5" and have the 125mm version... but even when its fully dropped, it doesn't "slam" to the frame like many people prefer to do for descending because at my height the post is still 5cm out of the frame from the seal collet. In reality you do not want your post to drop all the way to the frame, even for downhills. Dropping your seat is very important for bike control at speed on the downhills, but having your seat still somewhat between your legs is just as important for your lateral bike control and especially cornering (resting the seat on your inner thigh of the inner leg relative to the corner).

Example: look at how high many World Cup DH racers setup their seats. Check out Steve Peat and Greg Minaar, two 6'+ DH racers.

Anyways, seeing as how you are 6' tall I don't see the extra 25mm of drop actually being that helpful for you.

Hope this helps. (by the way I work at a bike shop, if that helps my credibility)


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## Der Juicen (Oct 7, 2010)

Porschefan said:


> I visited the shop where I bought my bike, which is also a Specialized dealer. Turns out they don't have the 125mm version after all. The manager of the bike shop, who is a pretty good guy and very experienced, thought that the 100mm version (which they do have in stock...) would be more than enough for me.
> 
> I'm not a real experienced rider but I figured that 125mm would be better, but maybe not? I'm 6' tall and my current seatpost has about 8" exposed from the seat tube to the saddle rails. I've measured and the 125mm post should fit fine. But do I need the extra inch? My main purpose in buying this is to get me used to getting "back" when heading downhill--failure to do so a few months ago led to a fairly serious crash/face plant and broken ribs.
> 
> PS: I also asked him about Specialized's policies and whether he would be OK with sending in a post for warranty work if I bought one from someplace on the internet. He told me that Specialized would require a proof-of-purchase and he couldn't do it. Art's Cyclery would ship one, but they don't have the 125mm version either!


i rode my buddies 2010 enduro size large for a couple months with a 100mm command post on it. when i bought my 2012 enduro also size large and i am 6' tall i bought the 125mm command post i like it a lot better. with the stock post i was running it it the max height for climbing, and slammed as low as it would go for descending. with the 125mm command post i have it set at the "9" line.


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## karatemonkey (Mar 9, 2007)

Anybody know if you can turn the post 180 degrees and still have it operate properly? (so the offset is to the front of the bike and not the rear)


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

karatemonkey said:


> Anybody know if you can turn the post 180 degrees and still have it operate properly? (so the offset is to the front of the bike and not the rear)


I think that's a question best asked of Spec. 
Why would you want to? The setback is only 20mm. You could simply
move your seat forward on the rails 20mm to compensate.


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## griffter18 (Jul 3, 2009)

Simple answer is yes. I ran my original command post like that for 18months without problem.
As to why. It makes for a cleaner routing of the cable as it doesnt have to bend around the top tube/seat post interface, and it can then be run down the back of the seatpost and back under the toptube or with a longer cable it can be run under the bottom bracket and up under the bottom of the downtube.
As Mestapho advises it does mean you inverted the setback but this can be adjusted via the saddle rails to get your seat into the right position.


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## somno (Jul 17, 2007)

*Blacklite with Sx trail?*

I am considering buying a used 2011 Sx trail. I would like to know how far you can insert the blacklite seatpost into the bike.

Is there enough room to have the seatpost so that it is almost flush with the seat tube? I am curious if I can get it as low as possible if necessary.


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

somno said:


> I am considering buying a used 2011 Sx trail. I would like to know how far you can insert the blacklite seatpost into the bike.
> 
> Is there enough room to have the seatpost so that it is almost flush with the seat tube? I am curious if I can get it as low as possible if necessary.


Why not ask the seller to check it for you..?

Plus it'll also help if you list the size of the frame.


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## somno (Jul 17, 2007)

*Sx trail and Blacklite post.*

He does not have the balcklite post and I am not sure how it would fit into the Sx trail (medium).


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

somno said:


> He does not have the balcklite post and I am not sure how it would fit into the Sx trail (medium).


:madman:

Simple, just tell him to take any old seatpost that fits in the seattube and shove it all the way down...then measure how far it went in. Take that length and purchase the correct length blacklite. People have posted the length of each size of the blacklite somewhere on this forum; sorry, I'm not going to do your homework for you so use the search function.


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

zuuds said:


> I just picked mine up and installed it last night. It's my first dropper seatpost, so I have nothing to compare it to, but seems to work well. Haven't had a chance to ride yet.
> 
> The owner's manual says to lubricate the inner tube (the smaller diameter part of the post) every ride, but doesn't say what to use. What are people using?


I use Slick Honey most times. Every once in a while I'll use triflow. 
I'll lube it up, cycle it up and down a few times, wipe off the excess and that's it.


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## Lost Biker (Jun 7, 2009)

+1 for bizzy slick honey. I use that on my seat post, fork stanchion and rear shock stanchion. Apply near the seals. Cycle up and down. Wife off excess. I apply every 3-4 rides.


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## Lost Biker (Jun 7, 2009)

somno said:


> I am considering buying a used 2011 Sx trail. I would like to know how far you can insert the blacklite seatpost into the bike.
> 
> Is there enough room to have the seatpost so that it is almost flush with the seat tube? I am curious if I can get it as low as possible if necessary.


You can go as low as the blacklite collar.


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## Lewy (Aug 23, 2009)

Do these have a weight limit? I am 120kgs and was wondering if I would break it.


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## Bajatoy (Sep 30, 2010)

pgh01 said:


> I have the 125 versions on each of my two bikes, one since it was first available and one for about 3 months. I ride 4-6 times a month and have had no problems with operation. I agree with some of the comments that the lever can be a bit awkward, but I seem to have gotten used to it. I clearly have more confidence on descents as a result. The only issue I have had was not being able to tighten the seat enough to prevent the seat from rotating (nose popping up) periodically, even though I was tightening way over spec. Problem seems to have been solved with use of a bit of carbon paste. Other than that, so far they have been great!


So my 2 month old blacklite does the same thing, tightened up the bolt pretty good and the seat still keepts going nose up on me. Any one else having this problem? Any other fixes other than carbon paste? Going to take it apart, clean and reassemble with carbon past and see if that helps.

Brian


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

Carbon paste solved this for me. 
In between the red circles and the black post.


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## Lost Biker (Jun 7, 2009)

mestapho said:


> Carbon paste solved this for me.
> In between the red circles and the black post.


+1 Same here. I stopped by local sports basement store and ask them for a sample pack. They hooked me up.


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## Bajatoy (Sep 30, 2010)

Went riding yesterday with the carbon paste in there. Worked perfectly! Great fix!
Thanks again for the help!
Brian


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## jcovil (Feb 13, 2012)

Does the blacklite have any speed adjust? My friends new bike has one and its so fast it could be deadly.


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## KCHT (May 1, 2008)

Psi?


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Pull the post out and let 5psi out of the bottom. The air pressure controls the speed. I found mine is too fast at 40psi, but wont return fully at 25psi so I keep it in the mid 30s.


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## jcovil (Feb 13, 2012)

Mr. Lynch said:


> Pull the post out and let 5psi out of the bottom. The air pressure controls the speed. I found mine is too fast at 40psi, but wont return fully at 25psi so I keep it in the mid 30s.


Ok thanks. I figured it was with the PSI but wasn't completely sure. He got the bike used so i don't know that much about the parts on it

thanks for the info.


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## okiemtnbkr (Oct 8, 2010)

Does anyone not feel any left/right play when they torque the seat left/right by hand on their blacklite?

I just got a new 31.6/125 and it has noticeable left/right play. I measured it at 1/16" at the tip of the saddle at the climbing height. I'd say it's about the same or maybe a hair more than my old Joplin. In the 35mm down position it has a bit more play, and at the fully dropped position it has even more left/right play with some up/down slop added in also. The play in the bottom position obviously doesn't bother me.

I'm just wondering who else can detect or measure play in their Blacklite.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I can detect play when off the bike, but I have never noticed it while riding, and I thought I was going to be real sensitive to it.


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## okiemtnbkr (Oct 8, 2010)

Yes, my experience with the Joplin is that the play isn't usually noticeable while riding. I was just curious what other people have have seen with their Blacklite posts. :thumbsup:


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## Trackho (Sep 23, 2011)

Installed mine last weekend 30.9/125 drop--Im 6' works great, sometimes it sticks between med position and up all the way, pretty easy to play with the cable tension adjuster. Ill let it break in an go for the fine tune. I ride mostly fireroads--works nice on the descent


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## NERVOUS (Mar 27, 2010)

This is a great product... It's working exactly as advertised for me.

You can download the Command Post Blacklite manual here.

For those of you that don't like to read, here are some notes that I found useful:

- Cable tension matters tremendously if you want the seat post to function correctly. Make sure the cable is routed in such a way that it isn't stretched and/or kinked when your bike's suspension flexes. Also, make sure the cable isn't overly taught or the seat post will move inadvertently.

- Be sure the seat post is in the fully extended position when you fill it with air. Otherwise the seat post will not return to the fully extended position due to insufficient air pressure. Keep in mind, 40 psi is the maximum recommended air pressure.

- The use of carbon paste will prevent your seat from tipping and tilting.

Best of luck.


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## okiemtnbkr (Oct 8, 2010)

Just wanted to mention that I'm at the end of a 8-day trip including Santa Fe, Cortez, Moab, and Fruita/GJ.... and this post has killed it! With my old Joplin I never knew exactly where I was in the range - if you wanted the seat down an inch or so you had to jack around until you got it into the right position. When you put it all the way up sometimes you wouldn't quite know if that was all the way up or not. With the Blacklite you get a reassuring "CLACK" when you lock into a position. No guess-work!

Also, being able to grab the bike by the seat during a hike-a-bike without worrying about getting air into the hydraulics is great... especially after a week of brain-frying heat out on the trails!

The only issue I have had so far is with the crappy plastic ferrules they give you with the cable. The ferrule at the post end broke and let the steel cable housing wires start to poke through. The post worked fine though - I just happened to spot the problem at the end of the day while doing a check-up on the bike. I replaced the ferrules with some metal Jagwire ones from my parts bin and the problem is now solved forever. :thumbsup:


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

Specialized Youtube channel on Blacklite maintance:


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## okiemtnbkr (Oct 8, 2010)

mestapho said:


> Specialized Youtube channel on Blacklite maintance:


Nice!! Thanks man!


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

okiemtnbkr said:


> Nice!! Thanks man!


No problem. I actually did the service today and it was very easy. Definitely use the bike to clamp the seatpost when loosening the top. I tried holding it in my hand while using the strap wrench and couldn't get it to budge. As soon as I relented and used the bike it loosened right up. I did get bad news though, when I discovered that the collet was broken and was causing the stickiness I was chasing, not lack of lubrication. It's a warranty repair at least.


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## stumpy6 (Jun 2, 2012)

I absolutely love my command post. Not only does it provide versatility on the go but it looks really cool. 

One problem, when I am out riding, once in awhile if I sit down on it hard, the seat angle will shoot up the nose. I then have stop and readjust. Is anyone else having this problem? I added a bit of carbon paste and it works great but just a bit noisy...


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## bdjohnson121 (Jul 30, 2011)

any idea when spesh is going to get these back in stock on their website?


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## Djg24 (Jul 7, 2011)

Late July, early August was the response I got from Specialized.


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

Djg24 said:


> Late July, early August was the response I got from Specialized.


Don't count on it....they told me April when I was looking back in the winter! It's a moving target. IMHO, they are using all the production to put on new bikes. My LBS has had 100mm models in stock, but the 125's seem to be super scarce.

Used, or take offs appear on eBay regularly, but they fetch close to full retail (or more) and they are NOT covered by Specialized's warranty. I must say that after 4-5 phone calls to Specialized customer service I'm not a big fan. That said, I'd still like to score a Blacklite at some point.


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## kingbozo (Jan 31, 2004)

Glad I got mine when I did. No complaints with my Blacklite so far.


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## stumpy6 (Jun 2, 2012)

just buy a new specialize with it... LOL! JK!


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## Der Juicen (Oct 7, 2010)

mmohome2 said:


> It looks like you can get the remote in two flavors: one that comes with grips, in which case the remote lever doubles as the grip retention clamp, or without grips, in which case the remote lever just mounts to empty space on the handlebar like anything else.
> 
> In looking at the picture of the dual purpose remote lever/grip clamp, I don't see why that couldn't be made to work with some other brand of grips. However, Big S is the master of making things proprietary just for the sake of being non-compatible with everything else.


when buying the blacklite aftermarket the lever that is comes with is the old style that only clamps to the bars.

when buying a complete bike that is equipeed with the blacklite the lever is the type that doubles as a grip lock. also supplied with the completes is a bushing/spacer to clamp the lever just on the bars if not using specialized grips, or you dont like the position when locked on the grip.

and i am pretty sure the specialized grips have a unique/proprietary clamp profile and the lever cant be used on any other grips, definitely not anything made by ODI.


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## mojojojoaf (Sep 9, 2008)

Just an update y Blacklite has developed quite a bit of side to side play owned since end of April. Enough that it rattles. Working with local dealer to get it looked at- ordered directly from Specialized website.

Works great otherwise and I love the preset at 1" and full drop. No stiction, no issues raising or lowering, very smooth.

Not angering or disappointed- just a heads up. Let you all know how Spesh handles it.

I actually have a DSP Bighorn that a distributor sent me without receiving payment- those trusting Canadians they probably dont even lock their doors at night....I havent used it and was about to send it back but might hold onto for a bit longer depending on the verdict from the Big S. I need international paperwork from the distributor to send it back anyways.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

my blacklite also has a very slight side to side play(don't notice while I'm riding). I can't remember for sure but I didn't think I noticed any play at all when it was new so pretty sure this side to side play is new. Right now it is not noticeable while riding. I hope it doesn't get worse(or if it does I hope it gets worse before the warranty is up!).


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## mojojojoaf (Sep 9, 2008)

the side to side is more annoying than anything else- as long at it doesnt fail on the trail which is what has happened to so many others' posts (not specialized but other makes). I personally have never had a post fail on me BUT I also have never had one develop side to side play.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I've had my blacklite since they came out. It has always had a little wiggle, but it has never got worse and never failed me and I've never noticed in while riding. The only thing I've had to do was replace the cable after the housing got full of grit from the wet riding conditions this winter/spring.


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## 5340 (Nov 24, 2011)

After 300 miles, I am verry satisfied of my Blacklite. No problem!


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## mojojojoaf (Sep 9, 2008)

Well problem solved- my saddle was broken even the bike shop guy was surprised. We went to remove the seat and discovered it was cracked where the rail goes into nose of the seat. Replaced saddle and now the wiggle is back to when I bought it. Sigh- thank goodness I dont have to send it in or be without it for a period of time.


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## Jimmy V (Nov 7, 2011)

I need a remote switch.
Has anyone used a nonspec. remote or prefer a different compatable remote?


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

*New, fairly comprehensive review of Blacklite @ Pinkbike*

See it _*HERE.*_

They've used it for a year and have a nice writeup on it.


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

> See it HERE.
> 
> They've used it for a year and have a nice writeup on it.


Mine is in for warranty with the same issue they had. The very front of the collect snapped off and my seat wouldn't return all the way up without a manual tug even at 40psi.

Hopefully they make this piece a bit strudier or I'm certain I'll break it again.
Oh well, if it does I'll sell it and go GD turbo.


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## jesse101 (May 23, 2011)

I have ridden this blacklite hard, i have the 125mm with the 3 positions. The only thing i had to do was add about 30psi, as anything less and it just wasnt as responsive. 

The other drawback is it's weight, its a bit heavy for a dropper seatpost, but i can live with the small weight difference for its great performance so far! I recommend this seatpost for sure. Great stuff.


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## HrznRider (Aug 21, 2011)

I have only done one ride so far on mine but it feels solid and well built. Going to do a comparison between my Joplin 3 and command post after a few more rides.


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## Wheelspinn (Aug 7, 2011)

I took mine apart to service it and greased it with maxima waterproof grease(super thick).
It gave it a hydraulic, damped feel. Kind of like I had turned the rebound way up(if it had rebound).
I'm stoked! It comes up nice and controlled and dosnt do the loud rough top out anymore. I used a lot of grease, like COVERED the collet and another big 2finger scoop into the outer tube.


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

Got mine back from warranty and its working again. 
Although, now I'm getting some accidental drops from full up to the cruiser position. 
Only seems to happen when I'm climbing which is really annoying. Hopefully that
goes away with some more use.


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

*New post/newb owner--is something wrong?*

I just received a 2012 Blacklite post from a seller on Craigslist.

The dropper portion of the post is all the way down--flush against the collar of the "outside" post. Actuating the release lever, does nothing--the post doesn't pop up at all. I checked the air pressure and it was ~20 psi, as manual states. I pumped it to 30-35 with no results.

I'm completely new to these posts, so it's quite possible I'm missing something simple--I hope so.

One other thing I noticed is that the volume of air in the post seems to be tiny. One pump on a floor pump gets it to 20 psi and another 1/2 pump (or less) get it to 30+. Is that normal?

Conversely, just attaching a pressure guage to get a reading can release all the air out and it's back to 0.

I'm worried that the seals or something in the air chamber aren't working properly.

Seller is an employee of a bike shop/Specialized dealer and the shop says they'll stand behind it if something's wrong. I'd rather have it working, but if it's damaged, then I need to get on them ASAP.

TIA for any pointers.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Porschefan said:


> I just received a 2012 Blacklite post from a seller on Craigslist.
> 
> The dropper portion of the post is all the way down--flush against the collar of the "outside" post. Actuating the release lever, does nothing--the post doesn't pop up at all. I checked the air pressure and it was ~20 psi, as manual states. I pumped it to 30-35 with no results.
> 
> ...


I think you need to check the pressure with the post all the way extended. When the post is collapsed like that I would imagine the pressure to be much higher than 30psi due to the reduction in volume.
See if you can activate the lever and then manually pull the post all the way up. Then air it up to 20-30 psi and see if the post works normally.

Although on the post I got I didn't have to mess with the air pressure at all when new. I just installed it and it pop'ed up once I hit the lever


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

You may need more pressure. The 40 psi max is with the seat at full height. 
With it down all the way the pressure will be higher. I don't know the number,
but higher. I'd pump it up to 50 and depress the release and see if it doesn't 
pop up at that point.


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## Pike14 (Mar 22, 2011)

Porschefan said:


> I just received a 2012 Blacklite post from a seller on Craigslist.
> 
> The dropper portion of the post is all the way down--flush against the collar of the "outside" post. Actuating the release lever, does nothing--the post doesn't pop up at all. I checked the air pressure and it was ~20 psi, as manual states. I pumped it to 30-35 with no results.
> 
> ...


Use a shock pump for the seatpost. You're probably losing almost all the air pressure in the post when you disconnect the floor pump because the hose in the floor pump is so long. I would also suggest brining the post in to the actual bike shop that the seller works at if you have any other issues. Like you said, probably something simple that you're missing.


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## miniwisejosh (Sep 14, 2007)

Porschefan said:


> I just received a 2012 Blacklite post from a seller on Craigslist.
> 
> The dropper portion of the post is all the way down--flush against the collar of the "outside" post. Actuating the release lever, does nothing--the post doesn't pop up at all. I checked the air pressure and it was ~20 psi, as manual states. I pumped it to 30-35 with no results.
> 
> ...


Use a shock pump. Do not put more air than recommended because that will break the seatpost over time from excessively strong top-out. It will also feel like an ejection seat when it pops up. Ouch.

Can you release the lever and extend the post manually? You should be able to. If not, something is wrong with it.


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## zoro (Mar 14, 2007)

Yo has anybody performed the "COLD WEATHER" mods for the Blacklite. Mine is almost useless in cold temps. But once inside the bike room and normal temps, it works super good again. Temperamental seatpost I tell you!! They should make a 'canadian' version tuned for cold weather out of the box.

Help a brother out!


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## miniwisejosh (Sep 14, 2007)

zoro said:


> Yo has anybody performed the "COLD WEATHER" mods for the Blacklite. Mine is almost useless in cold temps. But once inside the bike room and normal temps, it works super good again. Temperamental seatpost I tell you!! They should make a 'canadian' version tuned for cold weather out of the box.
> 
> Help a brother out!


I haven't tried it yet, but the cold weather mod just means using a lighter lube. Stock lube some kind of grease. Swap that for oil. Just make sure it's compatible with the seals. A heavier weight suspension oil might work, but double check with Specialized to see what they recommend. Call the number on their website.

Overhaul instructions so you can do it yourself...

Tech Tuesday - Specialized Command Post Blacklite Maintenance by mikelevy - Pinkbike


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

zoro said:


> Yo has anybody performed the "COLD WEATHER" mods for the Blacklite. Mine is almost useless in cold temps. But once inside the bike room and normal temps, it works super good again. Temperamental seatpost I tell you!! They should make a 'canadian' version tuned for cold weather out of the box.
> 
> Help a brother out!


I'm kind of curious too. My original command post would get slow in the cold too. Now my blacklite is showing that behavior too. I used to just put a bit of triflow on the seals with my old one and that would speed things up for awhile but thinking I should do the legit cold weather tune this time around.

Just curious why they wouldn't just do the cold weather tune out of the box? What happens when it gets warm again? Super duper fast ejection-seat action??


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Has anyone set their's up with just straight cable without the adjuster in it?


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Just curious, how do you other guys with the blacklite clamp your bike to a repair stand? Do you clamp it on To the part of the post that moves up and down or to the bottom part?


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## Der Juicen (Oct 7, 2010)

pwu_1 said:


> Just curious, how do you other guys with the blacklite clamp your bike to a repair stand? Do you clamp it on To the part of the post that moves up and down or to the bottom part?


Bottom part always. Don't want to damage the shaft.


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## miniwisejosh (Sep 14, 2007)

pwu_1 said:


> Just curious, how do you other guys with the blacklite clamp your bike to a repair stand? Do you clamp it on To the part of the post that moves up and down or to the bottom part?


Never clamp anything to the stanchion. Scratch that, and there goes your post...


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## Laterilus (Aug 13, 2010)

Unless you are at a Specialized demo day. I was shocked when they continually clamped to the stanchion every time a bike was brought in to change over for a new person. Made sense after awhile as they were just trying to get more people through the demo as possible and they didnt care about the state of the bikes. I was amazed that the posts kept working as well as they did.


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## trailjunkee (Mar 16, 2011)

*Command Post Cold Weather Setup Directions*

Been looking for the cold weather setup for the Command Post for a while and I finally found it. I was really beginning to think I just wasn't out there. Just in case anybody needs it, here's the link:

http://service.specialized.com/asc/Content/Tech%20Pubs/Technical%20Bulletins/TB0208A_revA.pdf

Anybody have any suggestions for a good, inexpensive for oil for this application?

Thanks
Bryan


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

Pike14 said:


> Use a shock pump for the seatpost. You're probably losing almost all the air pressure in the post when you disconnect the floor pump because the hose in the floor pump is so long. I would also suggest brining the post in to the actual bike shop that the seller works at if you have any other issues. Like you said, probably something simple that you're missing.


Update: I was able to release the post using a shock pump instead of the floor pump. I took it to a local Specialized shop to have it checked out and ended up having them install it there. Working fine!

Thanks for the tips.


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## jesse101 (May 23, 2011)

trailjunkee said:


> Been looking for the cold weather setup for the Command Post for a while and I finally found it. I was really beginning to think I just wasn't out there. Just in case anybody needs it, here's the link:
> 
> http://service.specialized.com/asc/Content/Tech%20Pubs/Technical%20Bulletins/TB0208A_revA.pdf
> 
> ...


I know you are probably looking for something cheaper than the belray 10wt oil, but i have used belray on everything on my bike with no issues. I know they sell silicone shock oils for like 3 bucks for a small bottle..but the 15 dollar 1 liter belray 10 wt is like 15 bucks... Which should last a long time between builds.


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## trailjunkee (Mar 16, 2011)

jesse101 said:


> I know you are probably looking for something cheaper than the belray 10wt oil, but i have used belray on everything on my bike with no issues. I know they sell silicone shock oils for like 3 bucks for a small bottle..but the 15 dollar 1 liter belray 10 wt is like 15 bucks... Which should last a long time between builds.


Thanks Jesse. $15 looks ok to me. I hope this winter to do a refresh on my fork anyway so it would be good to have around. Are you sourcing your oil online or from a local shop? If it's online where are you getting it? Looks like Amazon's got a good price on it but shipping's pretty high since they don't sell it directly. Might head out to a moto shop to she what they've got this weekend.

Thanks again!


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## JDM (May 2, 2008)

If you can do this mod then you can work on your own fork. Just buy the fork oil from your local motoshop. Your $15 will get you through your next 5 to 10 oil changes in your fork too.


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## jesse101 (May 23, 2011)

I got mine through my local harley davidson dealership for 15.99. And its pretty easy to rebuild..i am also looking to rebuild my revelation fork over the winter and shortening my cables. But i am debating to send my fork to push ind or get it done myself...choices choices lol


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## Buddha43 (Oct 10, 2011)

I also have the "cold weather" slow down (up) effect. I just spray a little WD-40 on a rag and rub/clean the upper part of the post, leaving no residue, seems to work just fine for a couple cold rides in a row.

I bought mine new from a member here 12 months ago, set it up and have yet to have any issues with it (other than the slow down when cold). I ride 3-4 times per week 10-20 miles per ride, with multiple post use.


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

From another thread, do any of you have issues with the force required to press the lever? If so, any solutions that work well?
Also, are you using the Spesh grips w/ integral lever? If so, any issues with the grips so far?


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Simplemind said:


> From another thread, do any of you have issues with the force required to press the lever? If so, any solutions that work well?
> Also, are you using the Spesh grips w/ integral lever? If so, any issues with the grips so far?


Are you using the noodle that came with the post? Its the silver 90 degree bend piece.
I originally had my post installed with the noodle and after a while it seemed like it got harder and harder to push the lever.
Finally, I checked the cable and noticed it was getting a little bit rusty. Got a new cable and it was better but still kind of hard to push. Finally, I removed the noodle and the lever is much much easier to push now.


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

pwu_1 said:


> Are you using the noodle that came with the post? Its the silver 90 degree bend piece.
> I originally had my post installed with the noodle and after a while it seemed like it got harder and harder to push the lever.
> Finally, I checked the cable and noticed it was getting a little bit rusty. Got a new cable and it was better but still kind of hard to push. Finally, I removed the noodle and the lever is much much easier to push now.


I think your experience is like most, the noodle is the culprit. I think I'll pack it with a dry lube prior to using first time.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

*Accidental drops from full up to cruiser or lowest position while climbing*



mestapho said:


> Got mine back from warranty and its working again.
> Although, *now I'm getting some accidental drops from full up to the cruiser position.
> Only seems to happen when I'm climbing which is really annoying*. Hopefully that
> goes away with some more use.


I am now experiencing exactly the same problem. Happens about 1-3 time per ride and only while climbing steep stuff where I am scooted more forward on the saddle. Does anybody know why this happens and what the resolution is?


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

Are you sure you have plenty of cable in the routing, where there's no tugging at full extension?


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## miniwisejosh (Sep 14, 2007)

fizzywater said:


> I am now experiencing exactly the same problem. Happens about 1-3 time per ride and only while climbing steep stuff where I am scooted more forward on the saddle. Does anybody know why this happens and what the resolution is?


I've had that a few times. It's caused by something keeping the release lever (I'm referring the the cable-actuated lever under the saddle, not the remote lever on the handlebars) from fully extending to the lock position quickly enough. Usually this means the cable or housing needs replacement or at least some lube. In one case, the lever on my post was sticking even with the cable disconnected. I dripped some triflow around the lever's pivot and that seemed to free things up again.


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

Anyone have experience with the locking SIP grips that come with the some of the Blacklite kits?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Simplemind said:


> Anyone have experience with the locking SIP grips that come with the some of the Blacklite kits?


Too small for me. I have a large hand and wanted them to work, but had to put my ODI Rogue's back on.

They were a perfect fit for my 10 year old's hands.


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

Well, broke a piece off of the collet again. 
It'll be going in for warranty repair for the second time for the same issue. 
Think I'm switching to a Gravity Dropper now.


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

mestapho said:


> Well, broke a piece off of the collet again.
> It'll be going in for warranty repair for the second time for the same issue.
> Think I'm switching to a Gravity Dropper now.


I'm curious, what were you doing when the collet broke, ie, raising/lowering, and did you know immediately? Also, do you weight the seat when raising, or let it hit the stops on it's own? Did you disassemble to see the damage?


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

mestapho said:


> Well, broke a piece off of the collet again.
> It'll be going in for warranty repair for the second time for the same issue.
> Think I'm switching to a Gravity Dropper now.


Also, do you remember if it was the same piece/same general area that broke before?


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

Simplemind said:


> I'm curious, what were you doing when the collet broke, ie, raising/lowering, and did you know immediately? Also, do you weight the seat when raising, or let it hit the stops on it's own? Did you disassemble to see the damage?


I didn't know immediately that it had broken again. 
I keep my butt on the seat as it travels up for the most part. 
I disassembled it to check why it wasn't working correctly again. 
The symptoms are the seat not extending without needing a tug, especially from the cruiser position to full up.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

pwu_1 said:


> Also, do you remember if it was the same piece/same general area that broke before?


It was on the opposite side of the collet this time. 
The first time was the piece directly in the front. 
This time it is the piece directly in the back.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

mestapho said:


> The symptoms are the seat not extending without needing a tug, especially from the cruiser position to full up.
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Good info, thanks!
I see how the collet works, from the photo's on the PB review, and it looks like you may be referring to one of the fingers of the collet breaking off...correct? I can see why this "mechanical stop" takes a beating, which is why I think it's important to ease it up and down. May be the Achilles heal of the mechanical design vs hydraulic. I think I still prefer mechanical for it's simplicity.


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

Simplemind said:


> Good info, thanks!
> I see how the collet works, from the photo's on the PB review, and it looks like you may be referring to one of the fingers of the collet breaking off...correct? I can see why this "mechanical stop" takes a beating, which is why I think it's important to ease it up and down. May be the Achilles heal of the mechanical design vs hydraulic. I think I still prefer mechanical for it's simplicity.


Yep. It's the little finger things that have broken off. I'll take a picture before it goes back to Spec.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Ailuropoda (Dec 15, 2010)

I like my 2013 FSR Elite but I think the single bolt seat clamp on he Blacklite is a design flaw. I understand that ease of adjusting the saddle tilt is a selling point but a two-bolt system isn't that difficult. How often do you adjust your seat position fore-and-aft and tiltwise anyway? Unless there's some extreme, North Shore Double Diamond technique of which I am not aware, we generally adjust our saddles once and then forget about them.

No matter how tightly I torqued the bolt, the saddle would periodically tilt after hitting a bump or a hard landing. Off the bike, loosen, readjust, and torque well past 122 Nm. Four or five times a ride...not acceptable on a $4000 bike.

The problem is the design and the installation method. The posts uses a clamp to squeeze wedges into a smooth cylinder. The instructions say to grease the wedges but I didn't get a good clamping action until I cleaned the grease off with alcohol, sprayed all the contact points with Carbogrip, and put so much torque on the clamping bolt that I fear something is going to fail catastrophically. 

I was contemplating drilling and tapping two setscrews through the cylinder and wedges but abandoned the idea; probably would have lead to a stress fracture through the holes.

It works fine now but I don't trust it and am carrying the appropriate allen key in my pocket just in case. Certainly will not go on an epic ride with it. 

By comparison I have a KS dropper post on my Enduro, also a single bolt design (which will be switched onto the FSR as soon as I get the time) that I essentially adjusted once two years ago and have never given it a thought. The difference is that the clamp sits on serrated base which gives that extra hold. The KS, by the way, has worked flawlessly and I just clean it and put grease under the collar every six months or so.

I'm a heavier rider...around 230 pounds but that's why I got a big bike like the FSR.

On another note, the lever is awful. Very un-ergonomic and to put it in the ideal position for my thumb would cause interference with the shifter. I know this post is getting rave reviews but while I really like Specialized as a brand and no doubt the post is going to set the standard for reliability I think they could have done better.


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

Ailuropoda said:


> I like my 2013 FSR Elite but I think the single bolt seat clamp on he Blacklite is a design flaw. I understand that ease of adjusting the saddle tilt is a selling point but a two-bolt system isn't that difficult. How often do you adjust your seat position fore-and-aft and tiltwise anyway? Unless there's some extreme, North Shore Double Diamond technique of which I am not aware, we generally adjust our saddles once and then forget about them.
> 
> No matter how tightly I torqued the bolt, the saddle would periodically tilt after hitting a bump or a hard landing. Off the bike, loosen, readjust, and torque well past 122 Nm. Four or five times a ride...not acceptable on a $4000 bike.
> 
> ...


The tilting seat problem is easily solved with carbon fiber paste on the red cone thingy parts. Don't know if that is the same as the Carbogrip. I had the tilty seat issue until I did this and not a problem since. I'm also a bigger rider was in the 230 range when I first got the post. My issue is the collet breaking. Mine is about to go back to Spec for the second time for the same issue. At your size I can almost guarantee that you will break the collet in the first 6 mos of riding.


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## dorkboy (Apr 25, 2006)

I want to get my wife a blacklite for Xmas. She has a 2010 specialized myna fsr small. The max her seat post can go into her frame is 5.250". Does anybody think that the 100 mm will work for her? Or will I have to wait until the 75mm gets back into stock? 
Thank.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

dorkboy said:


> I want to get my wife a blacklite for Xmas. She has a 2010 specialized myna fsr small. The max her seat post can go into her frame is 5.250". Does anybody think that the 100 mm will work for her? Or will I have to wait until the 75mm gets back into stock?
> Thank.


Depends on how much seatpost is exposed right now. Go measure from the seat collar to the seat rail and see what the measurement is. If there is at least 9.75 then the 100mm will work. 
The way I figured this is as follows:
The lower portion of the 100mm post from where the post flares out for the seal to the end of the post is 8.5" The top portion from the seal to the seat rail is 6.5"
Since the frame can only insert 5.25" you take 8.5 - 5.25 = 3.25. Then take 6.5+ 3.25(for the additional exposed lower portion of the post) = 9.75" 
Hope that makes sense.


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## dorkboy (Apr 25, 2006)

Yeah, I measured and my wife rides with her saddle up at 5.750" going uphill, then drops it down 2 - 3 inches for downhill.

Maybe the 75mm blacklite would be better. But they aren't available, so it might be a delayed xmas gift.

Thanks for your help!
Scott.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

dorkboy said:


> Yeah, I measured and my wife rides with her saddle up at 5.750" going uphill, then drops it down 2 - 3 inches for downhill.
> 
> Maybe the 75mm blacklite would be better. But they aren't available, so it might be a delayed xmas gift.
> 
> ...


hm, with 5.75" showing and only able to insert the seatpost 5.25" into the seat tube I'm not even sure the 75mm dropper post would work.


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

The broken collet. 2nd time.


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## miniwisejosh (Sep 14, 2007)

mestapho said:


> The broken collet. 2nd time.


Just found mine broken too. 3rd one for me. Looks like this is a recurring issue.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Just wanted to give an update to say I've been using the Blacklite for quite some time now with no issues. Many of my local riding buddies are as well and have reported no problems. Once you apply the carbon paste to the saddle clamp to prevent rotating the post is great. Reverb has failed twice so I'm done with that thing.

I finally decided to get rid of that [email protected]#$%ing curved noodle at the bar clamp and it's resolved all my issues with the lever being too hard to push. I determined it was where most of the resistance was in the cable sliding smoothly. It's not quite as clean looking, but the loop out front really isn't that big and the post is MUCH more useable now. I can drop it quickly whenever I need to now. I love it, and unlike the Reverb it has been reliable. 

Food for thought for those considering the 100 vs the 125mm. I couldn't use more than the 100 for my frame so that's what I've been using. I've found I don't miss the extra drop that the longer Reverb had. 100mm at full drop is more than enough for the steepest, most technical trails. I never really thought about it before, but I think going an inch shorter will also improve longterm durability because ultimately you are looking at less stress on all the components. It will be a shorter lever arm so there will be less torsional forces at the saddle on the thinner telescoping part.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

BaeckerX1 said:


> I finally decided to get rid of that [email protected]#$%ing curved noodle at the bar clamp and it's resolved all my issues with the lever being too hard to push.


interesting... And I just lubed my noodle the other day!


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

bad andy said:


> interesting... And I just lubed my noodle the other day!


Keep your personal non-bike-related pastimes off of MTBR Andy. Nobody needs to hear about that.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Just wanted to give an update to say I've been using the Blacklite for quite some time now with no issues. Many of my local riding buddies are as well and have reported no problems. Once you apply the carbon paste to the saddle clamp to prevent rotating the post is great. Reverb has failed twice so I'm done with that thing.
> 
> I finally decided to get rid of that [email protected]#$%ing curved noodle at the bar clamp and it's resolved all my issues with the lever being too hard to push. I determined it was where most of the resistance was in the cable sliding smoothly. It's not quite as clean looking, but the loop out front really isn't that big and the post is MUCH more useable now. I can drop it quickly whenever I need to now. I love it, and unlike the Reverb it has been reliable.
> 
> Food for thought for those considering the 100 vs the 125mm. I couldn't use more than the 100 for my frame so that's what I've been using. I've found I don't miss the extra drop that the longer Reverb had. 100mm at full drop is more than enough for the steepest, most technical trails. I never really thought about it before, but I think going an inch shorter will also improve longterm durability because ultimately you are looking at less stress on all the components. It will be a shorter lever arm so there will be less torsional forces at the saddle on the thinner telescoping part.


I wrote about the same issue with the noodle a while back.
Removing the noodle was like night and day difference for me. When I got the dropper for my other bike I didn't even bother with the noodle.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Glad to hear it wasn't just me. I didn't have time to read through the entire thread, but it's good others are aware of the issue.


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## trojans1993 (May 8, 2011)

I found swapping the stock cable for a Teflon cable made the lever action considerably more smooth as well. Almost 2 years on BL post now with no issues at all - knock, knock, knock.


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## Silly Man (Jun 9, 2006)

Just did a tune up on mine. Thanks for posting the "how to" video, can't remember who it was.

Still have that noodle but with a teflon cable as well. Better than brand new. Thumb lever feels more like a shifter now.

Very smooth and very easy to do if you follow step by step video.

Psyched now to ride...


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## trmn8er (Jun 9, 2011)

I have had this post for 3 months now, and it's my first dropper. I weigh 225 and am 6'2. I got the 100 mm version, and have had no slipping or tilting, zero problems at all, and I use the crap out of it. So far so good...


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Tilting clamp....

Clean it, grease the works, tighten very well.

I had slipperage until I started to grease it. I have two posts going strong with no slips for a year.

Admittedly, if I sit on the seat and shift my weight, then try to re- tighten the clamp, I can usually get another eighth turn. Frugality to add that in, and that is important.


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## HZKI (Dec 13, 2010)

Does anyone know where to get a replacement collet for Blacklite?


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

HZKI said:


> Does anyone know where to get a replacement collet for Blacklite?


Had to send mine to Spec. twice to have the collet repaired. The second time the work order said they put the 1nd generation collet on. Hopefully that fixes this issue.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

mestapho said:


> The second time the work order said they put the 1nd generation collet on. Hopefully that fixes this issue.


Very confusing wording.  Did you mean 1st or 2nd?


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Very confusing wording.  Did you mean 1st or 2nd?


Oops. 2nd warranty service put on the 2nd generation collet. 
Stupid fat thumbs.


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## ali_g (Jul 16, 2011)

Guys, care to advise what are the options to change the cables?


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## trailjunkee (Mar 16, 2011)

I went with Jagwire ripcord. Just being vain and wanted it to match the rest of my housing. Works good but I did find out that their cable ends are a little bigger than what came with the post and are REALLY tight in the cable stop on the post. If I have my cable off in the future I'm going back to the stock cable end on the Jagwire housing if it will fit. It's tight enough that I need a pair of pliers to pull the end out of the stop. Nice setup otherwise.


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## brigcampbell (Mar 5, 2013)

Just purchased the 125mm blacklite. Looked around at various options and seems this is a decent solution. They all seem to run into issues at some point so I opted to support the LBS and have access to help if needed. I installed it myself, worked like a champ.

Rode it today for the first time, I set PR with strava all over the place but that's because I was excited. LOL

Now I just need to remember to use it before I'm half way down or up the trail.


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## trojans1993 (May 8, 2011)

brigcampbell said:


> Now I just need to remember to use it before I'm half way down or up the trail.


It becomes second nature just like shifting after a few rides - best investment I've ever made.


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## brigcampbell (Mar 5, 2013)

Here is my setup, just mounted on the inside right on the left side. The XT brakes were a bit of an issue. Probably could have moved it over to the left more but I have bear paws.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

brigcampbell said:


> Here is my setup, just mounted on the inside right on the left side. The XT brakes were a bit of an issue. Probably could have moved it over to the left more but I have bear paws.


Those look like XT shifters. If they are you can the ISpec covers and have just one clamp, cleans up the bars nicely.


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## gazzacbr (Jun 13, 2013)

Miker J said:


> Tilting clamp....
> Clean it, grease the works, tighten very well.
> I had slipperage until I started to grease it. I have two posts going strong with no slips for a year.
> Admittedly, if I sit on the seat and shift my weight, then try to re- tighten the clamp, I can usually get another eighth turn. Frugality to add that in, and that is important.


yes you are right. theres a video on youtube where the guy tightens the bolt with a torque wrench. then you rock the seat front to back. then retorque. then do it again. he got about half a turn from initial setting, but now with the right torque.
could be worth buying a small torque wrench if you are worried about overtightening.
Specialized Command Post Blacklite: Set Up - YouTube


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## renderedtoast (Dec 6, 2006)

*Remote Lever*

Anyone buy a complete and swap out the grips? Did your bag of goodies come with a collar some something to allow the remote to clamp to the bars once the stock grips were removed? I didn't get anything like that, and of course, the clamp is too big for the bars. I'm gonna call the shop I got it from, and if that doesn't work, call Spesh directly and see if they can point me in the right direction.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

renderedtoast said:


> Anyone buy a complete and swap out the grips? Did your bag of goodies come with a collar some something to allow the remote to clamp to the bars once the stock grips were removed? I didn't get anything like that, and of course, the clamp is too big for the bars. I'm gonna call the shop I got it from, and if that doesn't work, call Spesh directly and see if they can point me in the right direction.


nvm....see below


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

renderedtoast said:


> Anyone buy a complete and swap out the grips? Did your bag of goodies come with a collar some something to allow the remote to clamp to the bars once the stock grips were removed? I didn't get anything like that, and of course, the clamp is too big for the bars. I'm gonna call the shop I got it from, and if that doesn't work, call Spesh directly and see if they can point me in the right direction.





pwu_1 said:


> I think the remote lever/clamp that replaces the clamp for the grip is only available as OEM when the post comes with the bike. The aftermarket retail package seatpost doesn't come with that clamp.
> I think you can order the other lever/clamp but not sure how much it costs. Post up if you find out how much it is to order.


Not sure what you mean as far as ordering the complete? I ordered mine from the LBS and mine came with the clamp for use without the grips. The first one I bought was a take off from a bike and if I remember correctly it came with a sleeve for inside the clamp to make it fit bars.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Mine came on my stumpy and also included the sleeve/collar for use with non-spec-clamp grips.


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## renderedtoast (Dec 6, 2006)

bad andy said:


> Mine came on my stumpy and also included the sleeve/collar for use with non-spec-clamp grips.


I bought a complete Stumpy. I didn't get a sleeve/collar. I did get two strange looking clamps with a screw on one end to clamp, and another screw on the other that looks like a set screw. I'm calling the shop I bought it from today to inquire about the collar. I was at another Spesh shop in Escondido on Sunday, and they all had blank stares when I asked them how the lever attaches to the bars with aftermarket grips.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

renderedtoast said:


> I bought a complete Stumpy. I didn't get a sleeve/collar. I did get two strange looking clamps with a screw on one end to clamp, and another screw on the other that looks like a set screw. I'm calling the shop I bought it from today to inquire about the collar. I was at another Spesh shop in Escondido on Sunday, and they all had blank stares when I asked them how the lever attaches to the bars with aftermarket grips.


I wouldn't be surprised if the techs didn't know what it was for and threw it away. As I said my OEM take off had the collar that fit inside.


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## BorisD (Apr 6, 2006)

Hi

I've my my Blacklite for about a year now. Unfortunately it's started to 'drop' from the highest position of it's own accord - this always happens when I'm attacking a steep climb.
It does drop when pedaling on the flat too but just not as often.
I thought the cable may be sticking so I disconnected from the post and discovered it still occurs.
I've dismantled the post and inspected the internals hoping to see an issue but it's in excellent condition - nothing broken or worn.

The post has been perfect until now. 

Any ideas? 

Cheers.


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

Warranty issue. Send it back to be fixed. Happened twice to me. Now riding a Fox DOSS


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

I had the first and now second generation in 100mm. Both work great.

The issues with version two are hard lever action and no good mounting position with Shimano shifter/brakes. Lever was so hard to pull that I started looking around for other options. It seems that version one had much better lever design with the exception of proprietary cable (why???)

The original noodle was impossible to use with Shimano. I replaced it with a noodle that I made from a V brake noodle. Little bit of cutting and sanding. It has a larger radius, so its not as tight. The mod is simple, just cut the bulb at the end of the noodle to make it a single diameter tube. Sand and round smooth and clean any cutting leftovers on the outside and inside of the tube.

Straighter tube means less friction. Now I get two things:

Fits with Shimano
Lever action is acceptable. Still hard and nowhere near Reverb or Crank Brothers. But it's usable.
I highly recommend this mod.


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## BorisD (Apr 6, 2006)

The manual says the plunger height needs resetting. 
Anyone familiar with this procedure?


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

BorisD said:


> The manual says the plunger height needs resetting.
> Anyone familiar with this procedure?


If it's not the tension in the cable, it's the post itself, I can guarantee it. 
Take it to a Spec. dealer and have it warrantied.


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## BorisD (Apr 6, 2006)

mestapho said:


> If it's not the tension in the cable, it's the post itself, I can guarantee it.
> Take it to a Spec. dealer and have it warrantied.


No warranty unfortunately. So it's not user fixable? Oh well. 
I'll drop off it off at dealer to be fixed then.

Thanks.


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## JayGee17 (Jun 28, 2013)

Anybody else find that activating the lever on the command post is difficult? I'm finding im having to apply quite a bit of deliberate pressure to the lever and concentrate on it that it means I'm half way down the hill before it drops. Need something you just touch intuitively really. Have seen the lever on Cubes which looks quite neat. Any suggestions?


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## miniwisejosh (Sep 14, 2007)

Old cables and housing maybe? Mine gets a bit stiff when I've neglected my maintenance.


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## JayGee17 (Jun 28, 2013)

Hi, no its brand new. It just doesn't feel like a natural action to make. It need a deliberate long push with the thumb and really you'd just want to flick it in an instant


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Are you using the noodle? If so try taking it out.


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## JayGee17 (Jun 28, 2013)

yes i am. ok thanks. will give it a go.


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## miniwisejosh (Sep 14, 2007)

Oh, well I have no suggestions if it's new. Maybe ride it for a bit and see if you adapt. I personally would not like an instant flick activation. That could cause a nasty accident given how quickly the post slams up.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

With both of my command posts, there is a lot to be said for setting up the cable tension using the trim adjustment. That's where you dial in the activation threshold, whether it be instant, or deeper in the throw of the lever. Also notice there is a difference depending on where my butt is fore and aft on the saddle. There's a definite sweet spot that equates to seamless activation


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

Yup, IMO the required lever throw and force to actuate lever are the achilles heel of the Blacklite post. Tried all kinds of things concerning the lever force (removing noodle, using different kinds of cable & housing combos, which helped somewhat, but I think these are the 2 biggest inherent design weaknesses (remote lever throw and force) of this post. Other than that it's a great remote dropper post and reliability (at least for my post) has been excellent with no issues in 1.5 years.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Yep, great post, lame level.
Another issue with the lever is that it does not fit well on the bar with mainstream shifters/brakes. I was looking for alternative levers from other posts, but they are hard to come by.
Replacing the noodle with a straighter one (less curve) made it workable.


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## Liternit (Jul 18, 2011)

The lever in my bike stays too far inside so its hard to reach with the thumb, I will probably have to get rid of the gear indicator in my shifter.


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## zoro (Mar 14, 2007)

Mine started to work again! Don't ask my why, probably the right sun/star/moon alignment + a favourable horoscope!

Geeeezus these dropper post are NOT the most reliable thing to come to mountain bikes. They all suck in one way or another. BUT once you ride with them you're *ucked. You have to have one all the time...


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## lunchwagon (Apr 29, 2010)

Has anyone tried using a KS remote lever with the blacklite? I'm thinking of trying this to reduce interference with the front shifter, and I already use ODI grips. I usually run a 1x10 setup so interference isn't an issue, but occasionally I go back to 2x10 for very long rides with steep climbs.

Also, my post has been going strong for 1.5 years with no issues. I ride fairly hard and weigh 215 lbs.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

lunchwagon said:


> Has anyone tried using a KS remote lever with the blacklite? I'm thinking of trying this to reduce interference with the front shifter, and I already use ODI grips. I usually run a 1x10 setup so interference isn't an issue, but occasionally I go back to 2x10 for very long rides with steep climbs.
> 
> Also, my post has been going strong for 1.5 years with no issues. I ride fairly hard and weigh 215 lbs.


I was considering trying this on my 1st edition command post, since it seems only a matter of time before the original lever/pivot will break. The KS lever though, was kind of expensive so I haven't taken the jump yet, and my original still works. In due time, in due time...


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## kubikeman (Jun 4, 2010)

Problem. I took mine apart for the first time today because the action wasn't smooth and everything seemed dry. While lubing up...hehe, I accidentally slid the seal collar all the way to the bottom of the post internals and now I can't get it slide back up. I had the white washer out and I think something is catching the lip at that spot. I feel like an idiot. Something is absolutely stopping it with force. Any ideas? Suggestions?

Name calling is perfectly acceptable along with suggestions.


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## KThaxton (Jun 4, 2009)

Do you mean the collet (the part that expands and engages the 3 preset positions) has come out the bottom of the post? If this is the case, does the lever (at the top of the post) not allow the collet to retract? Again, if so, push up on the center part that slides inside the collet and see if that retracts it.


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## KThaxton (Jun 4, 2009)

KThaxton said:


> Do you mean the collet (the part that expands and engages the 3 preset positions) has come out the bottom of the post? If this is the case, does the lever (at the top of the post) not allow the collet to retract? Again, if so, push up on the center part that slides inside the collet and see if that retracts it.


After thinking through what I posted, it's impossible for the collet to come out the bottom as long as it is still attached! D'oh!

Maybe conincidentally your internal cable just broke so you can't disengage the collet? My cable just broke two weeks ago and I could not change the height at all.


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## kubikeman (Jun 4, 2010)

First off, thanks for helping KThaxton.

I had a busy weekend with an engagement party to attend and other things going on. The issue I'm having has nothing to do with the collet. The collet is intact and so is the cable. The problem is with the collar wand the seals that you unscrew to actually take the post apart. I greased the inside of the post and slid that seal up and down to get it working smoothly. With my hands all greased up, I slipped and now the collar slid all the way to the bottom of the post. It won't come off completely because the collet won't let it.

But now it's stuck there. I can't get it to slide back up. And I'm pretty sure it's FUBAR. My last idea was to thread it back in the post in a padded vice. Then I clamped the lever down to retract the collet so it would be free to move, and I taped the top of the post with a mallet. Still won't budge. Whatever the seal is on the post, it's good. I can't get it to slide back up into position. I'm guess I have to send it off to Specialized to wait weeks on end and pay them to fix it. I'm debating on if it's actually worth it or not.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

kubikeman said:


> First off, thanks for helping KThaxton.
> 
> I had a busy weekend with an engagement party to attend and other things going on. The issue I'm having has nothing to do with the collet. The collet is intact and so is the cable. The problem is with the collar wand the seals that you unscrew to actually take the post apart. I greased the inside of the post and slid that seal up and down to get it working smoothly. With my hands all greased up, I slipped and now the collar slid all the way to the bottom of the post. It won't come off completely because the collet won't let it.
> 
> ...


Sorry to say, I'm pretty sure you'll need to send that post in for service and new seal. I think the problem is that the tolerance for the seal is so tight that its basically stuck in that channel. Even if you manage to take the collet off the seal would still be stuck in that channel. I think you'll pretty much have to wreck the seal to get it out of the channel.


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## kubikeman (Jun 4, 2010)

pwu_1 said:


> Sorry to say, I'm pretty sure you'll need to send that post in for service and new seal. I think the problem is that the tolerance for the seal is so tight that its basically stuck in that channel. Even if you manage to take the collet off the seal would still be stuck in that channel. I think you'll pretty much have to wreck the seal to get it out of the channel.


I was afraid of that. I'll bring it to my local shop and see if I can get a quote from Spesh. I just hope they don't want some ridiculous amount.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

While you had it apart, did you clean and relube? It's possible that some old, contaminated grease may be keeping the collets from fully locking into place. (pinkbike has a decent article on cleaning/relubing the blacklite: Tech Tuesday - Specialized Command Post Blacklite Maintenance - Pinkbike)

Aside from that, the post itself might not be fully extending, prohibiting the collets from fully locking in. You could try physically pulling up on the saddle before a steep climb to see if it's possible to get a fuller extension and eliminate the slipping. If so, you might just add air pressure to ensure full extension, and/or clean and relube to minimize friction and allow the post to come all the way up.


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

I did the same thing. I was able to force it back up the post. It just takes quite a bit of force.


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## kubikeman (Jun 4, 2010)

albeant said:


> While you had it apart, did you clean and relube? It's possible that some old, contaminated grease may be keeping the collets from fully locking into place. (pinkbike has a decent article on cleaning/relubing the blacklite: Tech Tuesday - Specialized Command Post Blacklite Maintenance - Pinkbike)
> 
> Aside from that, the post itself might not be fully extending, prohibiting the collets from fully locking in. You could try physically pulling up on the saddle before a steep climb to see if it's possible to get a fuller extension and eliminate the slipping. If so, you might just add air pressure to ensure full extension, and/or clean and relube to minimize friction and allow the post to come all the way up.


I can't even get the post back together. It didn't slip down while I was riding or anything. I had it apart and was cleaning it up. The collar and seal that the first arrow is pointing to (i.e. 'This') slipped down the exposed post and is stuck in the channel that the white split bushing sits in.

The reason I had it apart was because it wasn't extending without some help now and again. I thought I might have the dreaded broken collet, but turns out the seal was dry and sticky.

I think when I go home tonight I'm going to set a trap for Murphy. Bastard has been living in my basement for a while now.


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## kubikeman (Jun 4, 2010)

mestapho said:


> I did the same thing. I was able to force it back up the post. It just takes quite a bit of force.


Really? I was afraid to hit it too hard with anything. And I definitely don't have the hand strength to do it. Care to elaborate?


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## KThaxton (Jun 4, 2009)

Ahhh, I see. I wasn't sure what you meant by "collar", I assumed you mean "collet". So earlier you said you have the "white washer" out, did you mean the white bushing that is near where the collar is now stuck? If so, my guess is that it that the internal seal on the collar is caught in that channel and it is probably a pretty rigid seal and therefore hard to get to slip over the lip. I'd try to get some oil down in the seal to make it as slippery as possible and just keep trying to work it (gently rocking it) back and forth to get one lip over then the next.


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

kubikeman said:


> Really? I was afraid to hit it too hard with anything. And I definitely don't have the hand strength to do it. Care to elaborate?


I forget what I did, but I had the same feeling you did, that I was screwed.

I think I wrapped it with something to help grip it and just muscled it back into place.

Try a strap wrench maybe?


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## bear (Feb 3, 2004)

FWIW, I had the remote for mine self destruct after about four months of use - the axle the lever turns on simply disintegrated. I used a cotter-pin for a while but it wasn't super solid and eventually got more and more sloppy.

I found a Kind Shock remote kit off eBay and used that and it works better than the Specialized remote ever did, looks better, and fits better with my non-specialized grips, etc. Comes in colors too. Not the least expensive add on for sure, but is a ton better built for sure. The 'noodle' it comes with is MUCH better too, less resistance and more flexible AND once you get the tension dialed in with the barrell adjuster it locks in place.

Too bad I just discovered some of my collet 'teeth' are broken within the post. Argh.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

I recently went 1x10 on my bikes and the shifters I bought came in pairs so I had extra left shifters sitting around. They are Shimano XTR shifters with the 2/3 selector. So I opened one up and discovered that you can mod it(not permanent and totally reversible) so that when you push the lower gear selector, it won't go into 2nd or 3rd gear so its basically just like a big lever(upper gear release lever doesn't do anything now. You can push it but nothing happens). I hooked this up to my command post so now the left shifters activates my dropper post. Works so much better than the one that came with the post and looks cleaner too. The only downside is that the shifter weighs like 70 grams more than the lever that came with the post.


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## trojans1993 (May 8, 2011)

Thanks bear and pwu - glad to know there are other options for the lever. So far I have had great luck with the stock lever, Teflon cable and noodle I modified for a more gentle curve. I've been riding my CP pretty hard for over a year now and no issues at all. Pretty damn good post IMO.


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## muito doido (Mar 30, 2006)

Hi,
I tried to clean and grease my command post blacklite tonight and I did a very stupid thing. I took the white bushing off and then slid the main seal head into the channel that the bushing was sitting in. Now I can't slide the seal head back up the post(its stuck in the channel). HELP???


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## KThaxton (Jun 4, 2009)

Did you read the last 10 or so posts?


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## muito doido (Mar 30, 2006)

kubikeman said:


> Really? I was afraid to hit it too hard with anything. And I definitely don't have the hand strength to do it. Care to elaborate?


Kubikeman Did you manage to get it back up the post? Any tips? or did you have to send it back to Spec? what was the cost and turnaround time?


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## kubikeman (Jun 4, 2010)

muito doido said:


> Kubikeman Did you manage to get it back up the post? Any tips? or did you have to send it back to Spec? what was the cost and turnaround time?


Nope. Still in pieces on my workbench. I couldn't get it back together myself. One of these day's I'll have to drop it off at the shop.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

pwu_1 said:


> I recently went 1x10 on my bikes and the shifters I bought came in pairs so I had extra left shifters sitting around. They are Shimano XTR shifters with the 2/3 selector. So I opened one up and discovered that you can mod it(not permanent and totally reversible) so that when you push the lower gear selector, it won't go into 2nd or 3rd gear so its basically just like a big lever(upper gear release lever doesn't do anything now. You can push it but nothing happens). I hooked this up to my command post so now the left shifters activates my dropper post. Works so much better than the one that came with the post and looks cleaner too. The only downside is that the shifter weighs like 70 grams more than the lever that came with the post.


Great idea. +reputation. I am doing 1x10 now with XT 780 shifters.
What do you have to mod in the shifter so it does not lock in 2/3 gears and always jump back to 1?


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

CrozCountry said:


> Great idea. +reputation. I am doing 1x10 now with XT 780 shifters.
> What do you have to mod in the shifter so it does not lock in 2/3 gears and always jump back to 1?


I did the mod on the XTR shifters but I think the XTs should be the same.
First, you shift up 1 gear to the middle gear. Then you turn the gear selector to point to the 2. 
Take the top and bottom cover off. Once the bottom cover is off, examine the selector pin closely and you should see that the pin can slide out the bottom if you turn it a certain way. 
Turn the pin and slide it all the way out(be careful not to loose the little spring).
Once the pin is out, hit the top lever to put the gear selector back in the lowest gear(so you can put the cable in).
Then, you'll need to figure out a way to push the spring loaded arm back and away. Then you slide the pin back and once the pin is back in position, it should hold the arm away from the detent and you will be able to push the bottom lever and it won't lock in to any gear. 
Then you just put everything back together.


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## camarosam (Jul 26, 2009)

I've owned my Command Post Blacklite for a little over a year now with no service required at all.

I've done a write up here for anyone who's on the fence about purchasing one.

Specialized Command Post Blacklite


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

camarosam said:


> I've owned my Command Post Blacklite for a little over a year now with no service required at all.
> 
> I've done a write up here for anyone who's on the fence about purchasing one.
> 
> Specialized Command Post Blacklite


Very nice write-up Sam. My history has been the same as yours, except that I found the seat angle bolt needs to be torqued per spec or it will slip. Not a big deal, but if you just use your std hex wrench, you probably won't get it tight enough.


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## camarosam (Jul 26, 2009)

Simplemind said:


> Very nice write-up Sam. My history has been the same as yours, except that I found the seat angle bolt needs to be torqued per spec or it will slip. Not a big deal, but if you just use your std hex wrench, you probably won't get it tight enough.


Thank you.

Yeah I had the same problem with mine, but I always torque everything one my bike anyways. I figure for how much you spend on this stuff you might as well take it seriously and take care of it.


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## wal (May 20, 2012)

I've had my Blacklite post for ~10 months and up until the last few rides, I hadn't had any issues with it. Starting a few rides ago, I started having issues with the post returning from the cruiser position to the power position. I figured I could tear it down, clean it up, re-grease and be good to go.

So tonight, I tore it down, cleaned everything, re-greased with slick honey everywhere, put it back together, reset the height on the cable clamp, and hoped for the best. Sadly, I'm still having the same issue where it doesn't want to return from cruiser to power position. It returns just fine when going from all the way lowered to power position, but in order to get it up from cruiser I have to either lower it all the way down and return or pull up on it or bump it.

When I had it apart, I took a look at the collett and didn't notice anything wrong there and didn't see anything else visually wrong. What else can I do to diagnose this? Any suggestions greatly appreciated!


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

wal said:


> I've had my Blacklite post for ~10 months and up until the last few rides, I hadn't had any issues with it. Starting a few rides ago, I started having issues with the post returning from the cruiser position to the power position. I figured I could tear it down, clean it up, re-grease and be good to go.
> 
> So tonight, I tore it down, cleaned everything, re-greased with slick honey everywhere, put it back together, reset the height on the cable clamp, and hoped for the best. Sadly, I'm still having the same issue where it doesn't want to return from cruiser to power position. It returns just fine when going from all the way lowered to power position, but in order to get it up from cruiser I have to either lower it all the way down and return or pull up on it or bump it.
> 
> When I had it apart, I took a look at the collett and didn't notice anything wrong there and didn't see anything else visually wrong. What else can I do to diagnose this? Any suggestions greatly appreciated!


I would try the following:
1) check the seat collar and make sure its not too tight. I've had that issue with my santa Cruz collar. I changed to a Specialized and torqued to the specified torque and no more problems. Also have used the Salsa seat collar with not problems
2) How is the return speed. Maybe up the pressure slightly to see if it helps
3) Adjust the barrel adjuster to put more tension on the cable. Maybe your collett is not releasing all the way in the cruiser position.
4) You greased the shaft with it extended right? I usually just spread some grease around while the seatpost is fully extended, then cycle it a few times and wipe off any excess grease at the seal.


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

pwu_1 said:


> 2) How is the return speed. Maybe up the pressure slightly to see if it helps
> any excess grease at the seal.


This is the first thing I'd look at.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Remember pressure is set extended


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## mmanuel09 (Nov 26, 2008)

Hey guys. I'm having the same problem. From the fully low position it will only pop up to the middle position. I have to grab and pull the seatpost to get it up to the power position. I greased it down and cleaned it up using the video. All looks good. I'll have to check the seat post collar tonight. I did notice that the seal head was hard to move up and down the shaft. Took quite bit of effort. The grease didn't seem to help it all that much. I've used this seatpost for about 3 months now. Pressure is set to 40 psi.


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## innovator8 (Sep 6, 2011)

mmanuel09 said:


> Hey guys. I'm having the same problem. From the fully low position it will only pop up to the middle position. I have to grab and pull the seatpost to get it up to the power position. I greased it down and cleaned it up using the video. All looks good. I'll have to check the seat post collar tonight. I did notice that the seal head was hard to move up and down the shaft. Took quite bit of effort. The grease didn't seem to help it all that much. I've used this seatpost for about 3 months now. Pressure is set to 40 psi.


I'm going to have to clean and tee lube mine to, I also have to pull it up. I'll post if it helped after I do it.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

innovator8 said:


> I'm going to have to clean and tee lube mine to, I also have to pull it up. I'll post if it helped after I do it.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk


Did you check the seat collar? I had some issues with the collar that came on my Blur LT. Switched it to a different one and torqued to spec(I think about 5nm) and no more issues with it not returning all the way. 
Should be easy to check, just loosen the collar a little bit at a time and then check to see if you can get the post to return all the way.

Also, if you decide to take apart the post to grease the inside it, DO NOT slide the seal past the white plastic bushing(especially if the bushing has been removed). Don't ask me how I know, haha


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## mmanuel09 (Nov 26, 2008)

Yeah keep me in the look after you clean it. I'll have to check the collar tonight to see if that helps.


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## Trackho (Sep 23, 2011)

I've had mine for a year and a half, it's worked well. Last winter, I got rid of the grease and replaced with Mobil 1 per specialized cold weather recommendation even though i live in NorCal and ditched the stoopid noodle- it's worked flawlessly since. I ride at least 4x/week and weigh 220lbs as much as I'd like to get a hydraulic it's hard to justify until this one breaks


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

The new version has very light level pull, even though it looks like the same lever with the same noodle. It must be something in the post itself, like a spring change.


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## mattsavage (Sep 3, 2003)

mastrgrdr said:


> I just picked up a brand new 125mm Blacklight but I haven't installed it yet. I have a 2013 Stumpjumper FSR and a 2013 Rockhopper 29er. I was thinking of buying a 2nd lever/cable and swapping the post between the bikes, but I'm not sure how difficult that would be and if the cable needs to be setup perfect or what. Any thoughts on if it is something that would be easy to do, or not worth the hassle?


Not worth the hassle... Pony up for a complete post.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

mastrgrdr said:


> I just picked up a brand new 125mm Blacklight but I haven't installed it yet. I have a 2013 Stumpjumper FSR and a 2013 Rockhopper 29er. I was thinking of buying a 2nd lever/cable and swapping the post between the bikes, but I'm not sure how difficult that would be and if the cable needs to be setup perfect or what. Any thoughts on if it is something that would be easy to do, or not worth the hassle?


There are some considerations. For correct seatpost operation, as long as you get a new lever, cable, housing, and, the little pill thingy for the cable and set it up on the other bike, you would be able to swap the post and have the post operate correctly.

The other consideration is the seat fore/aft position and angle on the 2 bikes. If you can take the post from 1 bike to the other bike without changing the seat angle/position then I would say it would work fine. If you have to adjust the angle/position, etc, then I would say you should just get another post. I think it would be too much hassle to be changing seat position/angle every time you want to ride a different bike.


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## trojans1993 (May 8, 2011)

I strongly agree - it is a fantastic post from my 2 years experience with it with no issues, but once you get it set and dialed in I wouldn't want to mess with it unless I had to. The little barrel nut that holds the cable just doesn't seem like something that should be tightened/loosened on a regular basis.


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## J-Flo (Apr 23, 2012)

After 18 months my 125mm Blacklite went kaput mid-ride. Won't hold position any more, smooth motion is gone, and it feels jammed up. I assume the collet is broken. Oddly enough I could not get it open even though I have a good strap wrench. So I took it in to the shop, and am now switching a single seatpost between two bikes. 

The post has had no problems prior to this. 

The good news was that the bike was still rideable with the busted dropper post; it went down to the bottom position and I just raised the post.


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## rollertoaster (Jun 11, 2007)

mestapho said:


> Well, broke a piece off of the collet again.
> It'll be going in for warranty repair for the second time for the same issue.
> Think I'm switching to a Gravity Dropper now.


Did they actually cover it under warranty? I was just told this morning that it is a "wear item" the and that I would have to pay for the repair even though the post is less than a year old.


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## mestapho (Sep 3, 2011)

rollertoaster said:


> Did they actually cover it under warranty? I was just told this morning that it is a "wear item" the and that I would have to pay for the repair even though the post is less than a year old.


Yep they warrantied mine. I sold it before ever using it again.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

rollertoaster said:


> Did they actually cover it under warranty? I was just told this morning that it is a "wear item" the and that I would have to pay for the repair even though the post is less than a year old.


Damn that sucks. How much is the repair going to cost?


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## rollertoaster (Jun 11, 2007)

They want $75 to repair and ship it. I'm not gonna do it. I'll just use another post on the bike. 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

So it's maintenance time on my blacklite. I made the mistake on my old (gen 1) command post of removing the white bushing and getting the seal head stuck in the channel. Had to send to specialized to fix that one. I want to clean the blacklite and lube the seal head with a lighter lube for better cold weather action. If I keep the white bushing in place, would the sealhead be able to slide over this to be removed, cleaned, re-lubed, and reinstalled? 

Or is it pretty much just not a good idea to remove the seal head from the post without have specialized's special seal head reinstallation tool?


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## turbo1397 (Feb 2, 2013)

Hey folks, just resurecting this thread. ive had a blacklite post for about a year now.. i bought it used and its never really functioned properly. wouldnt return from the cruiser position to top. Now the 90 degree noodle has snapped.. ive read on here about peeps doing away with it. has anyone got any pics of an install where theyve done away with the noodle? also what cable would be suitable to replace the standard stuff with?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

turbo1397 said:


> Hey folks, just resurecting this thread. ive had a blacklite post for about a year now.. i bought it used and its never really functioned properly. wouldnt return from the cruiser position to top. Now the 90 degree noodle has snapped.. ive read on here about peeps doing away with it. has anyone got any pics of an install where theyve done away with the noodle? also what cable would be suitable to replace the standard stuff with?


Grease too thick? Air pressure too low?

It's a normal shifter cable.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

turbo1397 said:


> Hey folks, just resurecting this thread. ive had a blacklite post for about a year now.. i bought it used and its never really functioned properly. wouldnt return from the cruiser position to top. Now the 90 degree noodle has snapped.. ive read on here about peeps doing away with it. has anyone got any pics of an install where theyve done away with the noodle? also what cable would be suitable to replace the standard stuff with?


No pictures handy but for the noodle removal, you would just remove it and replace the 2 piece housing with one continuous run from the lever to the seatpost. Basically it would look like a derailleur installation.
As for the inner cable, any mtb derailleur cable will work fine. Since you want to remove the noodle, you can probably just go get a replacement housing/cable.
Something like this or similar
Clarks Stainless Steel Universal Derailleur Cables -


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

I replaced mine with these. Easy swap over... remove old noodle, replace with this: U Z Bike Stainless "Flexie" Flexible V Brake Noodle 2pcs Set Black | eBay

I think they are the same thing KS uses with their posts.


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## innovator8 (Sep 6, 2011)

So what is the best kind of grease to lube up these things? Mine functioned great for a for like 9 months with the stock grease in it, and once it started to get stick, I took it apart and cleaned and lubed with wheel bearing grease and it required cleaning again after just a couple of months.

Thanks


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## KThaxton (Jun 4, 2009)

I believe Slick Honey is the preferred choice and that's what I have used. But, I wouldn't say it that is the only choice.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## JACKL (Sep 18, 2011)

Mine requires a few drops of stanchion lube every 3 or 4 rides, or whenever I wash the bike. Otherwise it gets slow to return and eventually won't go to the top position. When it was a year old I took it apart and re-greased it with bearing grease. I still need to use the stanchion lube.

No complaints, as it otherwise works flawlessly.


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## pigdog (Feb 7, 2011)

I've had zero issues with mine over two years now, riding through a pair of stoopid wet Northwest Winters included. It's one of the few bike parts I've paid full retail on (more for warranty piece of mind...) and I'm about to do it again as my new frame takes a 31.6 so my Chameleon SS just got a dropper post....I'm going to do the flexy stainless noodle repalcement. One thing that really helped me especially in the PNWet was switching the cable out to a Jagwire teflon coated cable. I'm sure any teflon coated shifter cable will work, but it really helped my unit.

In the end I feel better using a mechanical unit that can be raised to full extension if something goes sideways vs. hydraulic fail drop done.

On that note - anyone selling a 31.6 sized Command Post get in touch, I'm in the market for one now and less reluctant to buy used now that they've got a history and the known bugs and fixes are out there. Cash in hand $$$, you selling? I'm buying!


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## cka3o4nuk (Jul 17, 2013)

hi people!
is it safe to use 30.9 seatpost with shim to 31.6


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

cka3o4nuk said:


> hi people!
> is it safe to use 30.9 seatpost with shim to 31.6


I've done it without problem.


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## LaCostaClydesdale (Aug 1, 2013)

Is there any way to adjust the travel of the post? For example, I have a 125mm post. The cruiser position is a 35mm drop, the descender position is another 90mm drop. What I would like to do is make the descender position only another 35mm drop OR make the cruiser a +/- 50mm drop and leave descender at the bottom. My problem is that I am a tall rider (6'4" 34" inseam) on an XL frame. The cruiser isn't quite low enough for me descending technical stuff. The descender is WAY too low and is basically not useable for me as it makes pedaling extremely inefficient.

I might be spoiled as I came off of a KS LEV which has infinite adjustability. That got sold with my old bike. That was good, except with infinite adjustability I found I was always fiddling with the top setting between fully extended and "cruiser-like" psoition.


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## KThaxton (Jun 4, 2009)

Well, I'm sure you could if you were a machinist and could machine an additional groove inside for the collett to engage.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

LaCostaClydesdale said:


> Is there any way to adjust the travel of the post? For example, I have a 125mm post. The cruiser position is a 35mm drop, the descender position is another 90mm drop. What I would like to do is make the descender position only another 35mm drop OR make the cruiser a +/- 50mm drop and leave descender at the bottom. My problem is that I am a tall rider (6'4" 34" inseam) on an XL frame. The cruiser isn't quite low enough for me descending technical stuff. The descender is WAY too low and is basically not useable for me as it makes pedaling extremely inefficient.
> 
> I might be spoiled as I came off of a KS LEV which has infinite adjustability. That got sold with my old bike. That was good, except with infinite adjustability I found I was always fiddling with the top setting between fully extended and "cruiser-like" psoition.


I need a new dropper and I'm debating another Blacklite or a Gravity dropper. I don't like infinite ones. The interesting thing I found with the GD is that you can chose to have the middle position be a 1 inch or 2 inch drop. I've been thinking that a 2 inch drop might be nice.

If I can't find someone to trade blacklites with I may go with GD.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

*Droppers....*



TwoTone said:


> I need a new dropper and I'm debating another Blacklite or a Gravity dropper. I don't like infinite ones. The interesting thing I found with the GD is that you can chose to have the middle position be a 1 inch or 2 inch drop. I've been thinking that a 2 inch drop might be nice.
> 
> If I can't find someone to trade blacklites with I may go with GD.


Go with a 1". 2" is way too much - I know it doesn't sound like it, but it is.

Both are great posts. I've been on GDs since they first came out. Durability is second to none. I like the Spec 'cause I like set back posts. The GD doesn't really look all that cool either.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Might as well post here.

Anyone have a 75mm that wants to trade for 100mm one? The 100 is too long for my new frame.


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## mattsavage (Sep 3, 2003)

LaCostaClydesdale said:


> Is there any way to adjust the travel of the post? For example, I have a 125mm post. The cruiser position is a 35mm drop, the descender position is another 90mm drop. What I would like to do is make the descender position only another 35mm drop OR make the cruiser a +/- 50mm drop and leave descender at the bottom. My problem is that I am a tall rider (6'4" 34" inseam) on an XL frame. The cruiser isn't quite low enough for me descending technical stuff. The descender is WAY too low and is basically not useable for me as it makes pedaling extremely inefficient.
> 
> I might be spoiled as I came off of a KS LEV which has infinite adjustability. That got sold with my old bike. That was good, except with infinite adjustability I found I was always fiddling with the top setting between fully extended and "cruiser-like" psoition.


I think you're missing the point of dropper posts... If the post is dropped, that means you're descending or navigating technical terrain and should not be seated, ever. Pedal standing up. When it's raised, you're either climbing or spinning it out on the flats. Even if your descent or technical terrain mellows out briefly, you should stay standing and be on the pedals until it either A) you climb again or B) it flattens out and is mellow for an extended period.

Why manufacturers put a silly in the middle position makes zero sense to me. There is no middle ground when it comes to proper fit and proper technique. ATMO...


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## KThaxton (Jun 4, 2009)

I like the middle position when descending less technical terrain, or descending fast on smooth terrain. I also use it while pedaling really techy terrain either climbing or sorta flat.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

mattsavage said:


> I think you're missing the point of dropper posts... If the post is dropped, that means you're descending or navigating technical terrain and should not be seated, ever. Pedal standing up. When it's raised, you're either climbing or spinning it out on the flats. Even if your descent or technical terrain mellows out briefly, you should stay standing and be on the pedals until it either A) you climb again or B) it flattens out and is mellow for an extended period.
> 
> Why manufacturers put a silly in the middle position makes zero sense to me. There is no middle ground when it comes to proper fit and proper technique. ATMO...


Maybe you should ride the way you want to and the rest of us will ride the way we should.

But thanks for trying to tell me how to ride like you.


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

TwoTone said:


> Maybe you should ride the way you want to and the rest of us will ride the way we should.
> 
> But thanks for trying to tell me how to ride like you.


TwoTone, I think Matt came off a bit strong, however I think he makes a good point, and that is why have a middle position. I use the middle position a lot because my usual terrain is quite technical and up-down up-down and I don't have time to be constantly changing seat positions. However when I ride Colo there are long assents and descents, giving to using the top and bottom seat position much more.
The middle position allows me to still get behind and also gives a platform for climbs, but it IS a compromise, in that it not ideal in either (descend/ascend) but that's the way it is.


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## retrofred (Jan 19, 2004)

TwoTone said:


> Might as well post here.
> 
> Anyone have a 75mm that wants to trade for 100mm one? The 100 is too long for my new frame.


I have a 75mm giant dropper post that i would trade. 75mm was to short for me

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

retrofred said:


> I have a 75mm giant dropper post that i would trade. 75mm was to short for me
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


No thanks, Blacklite for Blacklite


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

mattsavage said:


> I think you're missing the point of dropper posts... If the post is dropped, that means you're descending or navigating technical terrain and should not be seated, ever.


Have you ever done any downhill riding?


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## retrofred (Jan 19, 2004)

TwoTone said:


> No thanks, Blacklite for Blacklite


Oh no worries. Wasn't sure which you had cause of all the people started talking about all different brands.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


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## cka3o4nuk (Jul 17, 2013)

i there any manual on the service IR version of coommand post?
standart can be fount on the youtube
but ir, im not shure how to dissasemle it


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

Well just had a broken collet. Even though I'm under warrantee still (11 months) Spec will NOT replace it.

Specialize SUCKS... they will not cover a broken collet under warrantee saying it's a "wear and tear item" (like those holes don't severely weakens the post!) nor will they sell the shop the $18 replacement part. You have to send it in and pay >$90 for service. LAME on a $300 item. never buy spec again. Might have to go back to Gravity Dropper (if only the cable routing was better) who's CS was amazing in replacing a broken shaft no questions asked for me.


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

adumesny said:


> Well just had a broken collet. Even though I'm under warrantee still (11 months) Spec will NOT replace it.


That sucks! :madmax:

Maybe I should sell mine before it craters.


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

adumesny said:


> Well just had a broken collet. Even though I'm under warrantee still (11 months) Spec will NOT replace it.
> 
> Specialize SUCKS... they will not cover a broken collet under warrantee saying it's a "wear and tear item" (like those holes don't severely weakens the post!) nor will they sell the shop the $18 replacement part. You have to send it in and pay >$90 for service. LAME on a $300 item. never buy spec again. Might have to go back to Gravity Dropper (if only the cable routing was better) who's CS was amazing in replacing a broken shaft no questions asked for me.


*That's and the fact so many Non upgradable parts + their Business practices is why Specialized will never get another dime from me, Other than that I love My Stumpy LOL*


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

Rakuman said:


> *That's and the fact so many Non upgradable parts + their Business practices is why Specialized will never get another dime from me, Other than that I love My Stumpy LOL*


Good friend has a Spec (I ride a Mojo HD with Ibis amazing CS) which he loves but not when it comes times to replace anything on it. Spec doesn't provide any parts it seems (only complete repair) and even the bolts are non standard threads pitch!... he HATES Spec now.

Reading this long thread looks like some people have this break repeatedly... why wouldn't it after all - looks like a weak design and leaves a bad taste in my mouth as they expect us to spend $90 every couple years with 'wear and tear' BS... It's a design flaw.


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## pigdog (Feb 7, 2011)

cka3o4nuk said:


> hi people!
> is it safe to use 30.9 seatpost with shim to 31.6


Yes but if going in a carbon frame make sure it won't void warranty. That's why I needed to just get the next size up. BTW - someone saw my previous post and got in touch, got my post,its all good!


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## Billinsd (May 10, 2012)

*Can I insert cable housing into remote lever?*



pwu_1 said:


> I wrote about the same issue with the noodle a while back.
> Removing the noodle was like night and day difference for me. When I got the dropper for my other bike I didn't even bother with the noodle.


I took out my noodle and put the cable housing straight into the remote lever. I filed the end of my cable housing. This won't damage my lever, right? Thanks Bill


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

I just replace my blacklite with the latest version with the new head clamp, went from 100 to 125. The lever action is a huge improvement. Much lighter and does not disrupt riding. The new head is an improvement, and angle range was not an issue as it was on the enduro that I tested. The new seat clamp is not acting up and does not need crazy torque and wiggling to stay in place.

But the problem now is that my frame has too long seatpost, and 125 middle position is too high, even when the post is slammed all the way in. I have no idea how this happens since with the 100 I had more than an inch exposed post above the seat tube.


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## toyotatacomaTRD (Apr 4, 2012)

So my 2012 Command Post Blacklite is no longer locking in the lowest position. It will lock in the middle position. Is this an easy fix?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

toyotatacomaTRD said:


> So my 2012 Command Post Blacklite is no longer locking in the lowest position. It will lock in the middle position. Is this an easy fix?


Sounds like something is jammed in the lower groove.
Disassembly time...


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

toyotatacomaTRD said:


> So my 2012 Command Post Blacklite is no longer locking in the lowest position. It will lock in the middle position. Is this an easy fix?


If it's locking at the mid and top position then it doesn't sound like a broken Colette (which many of us had) but something is maybe limiting the down travel - make sure the shaft lock is tight all the way and not longer which may prevent full travel down.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

adumesny said:


> If it's locking at the mid and top position then it doesn't sound like a broken Colette (which many of us had) but something is maybe limiting the down travel - make sure the shaft lock is tight all the way and not longer which may prevent full travel down.


My experience as exactly that, actually. Broken collet with one of the broken pieces at the bottom inside preventing full down travel, so the post's shaft wouldn't quite reach the lowest lock point. The upper position worked ok as my collet was still intact enough to work. IT was just one broken piece. Sent to Spec to fix.


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## toyotatacomaTRD (Apr 4, 2012)

I ended up fixing the post from not locking into the bottom position by loosening the cable. The post had been on for 2+ years, I'd never adjusted the cable in that time. I was really surprised it fixed it. Thanks to all who offered suggestions.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

toyotatacomaTRD said:


> I ended up fixing the post from not locking into the bottom position by loosening the cable.


good it was a simple fix.

Update on my broken colette - took almost 2 months (always delayed 'another 3 weeks', etc...) to get the spare part (shop quoted me $18, which must have been their price as I was charged $36) as apparently Spec keeps them for their warrantee department !! (didn't want to spend ~$75-90 sending it in and have it break again). Taking it off was a PAIN as they use red lockit and the grove is very small. Neighbor mechanic didn't want to give up, and together with a torch to melt the lockit and eventually a regular plier (didn't care about damaging the colette as a flat key didn't have enough grip) we got it off... super hard with 2 people!

Tired of waiting so long, I bought a used blacklit cheap which was almost impossible to open ! (not sure why they didn't keep the bolt pattern of the original and have it rounded now) to make sure the colette wasn't broken (didn't want to double my problem). Now I have a spare one for my DH bike in case my main one acts (the inside is the same between the 2 sizes 30.9 and 31.6 I now have).

Been told to NOT let it slam on the way up as that is what breaks the colette. My cable is intentionally short so it slows it down near the end (adjust your air pressure as well) so it just barely makes it to the top, else use your legs/butt to slow it down.
Hopefully it will last longer this time... The blacklight is definitely an improvement (nicer remote with regular cable, easy disconnect at the seat, etc...


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## lunchwagon (Apr 29, 2010)

I wanted to share my experience with the broken collet issue.

First though, I should mention that I've been using this post for 2.5 years with no issues at all. I took it apart twice during that time for cleaning/maintenance (done by me, not a shop).

A few weeks ago I experienced the same issue described by a few others here where the post would not lock into the lowest position. It would still lock in the top and middle positions, however. I pulled it apart to take a look and this is what I found:









I took the Blacklite to the local Specialized dealer where I bought it. They had not seen this issue before, but they called Specialized and confirmed they could order the part in and repair in-house. The quote was $25 for the part, and they said it would arrive in 4-5 days. The part got there on time, but... the shop didn't realize they needed a special tool to remove/install the collet. They called me and apologized for the oversight, and said they would order the tool and it should be there in 3-4 days. They called 4 days later saying my post was fixed and ready to go.

Overall, I was very happy with the process. I expected the shop to charge a little for labor, but the total was only $25 + tax. Not bad! And total turn around time was less than 10 days.

One more thing, since I already had the post off the bike, I decided to convert my old SLX front shifter into the dropper remote lever (I run a 1x10 drivetrain). I found a few threads on here detailing the process. I haven't taken it out on a proper ride yet, but around the neighborhood it felt great! Much better than the Spec. remote. Really looking forward to this upgrade.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

lunchwagon said:


> I wanted to share my experience with the broken collet issue.


You are very lucky and have a good local Spec shop, because I had to wait 7 weeks to get the part (after repeated calls, Spec was out but eventually used their repair department supply, I had 2 shops try to get it!) and was originally quote $18 (ended up being cost so $36+tax) or $80+ to send in for service. It was a real PITA to replace it as they use red lockit (need blow torch, at least on the original model) and you have a very small grove to unscrew it. Very lucky your shop didn't charge you labor either as I almost gave up after couple hours trying to get it off with 2 people.


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## lunchwagon (Apr 29, 2010)

adumesny said:


> You are very lucky and have a good local Spec shop


I agree. I've been following this thread and was aware of your experience before my collet broke. I was not hopeful and didn't expect it to go so well. But when it did, I thought I should share my story so folks know it's worth giving it a go with their LBS. I'm not a Specialized fanboy (ride a Santa Cruz currently) and rarely purchase from this shop, so it's not like they were doing a favor for a loyal customer. The post was purchased there originally though, as they were the only place locally with stock.


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## lumaca84 (Sep 22, 2014)

Hi to all. I'm new in the forum and I'm writing here because I'd like to have from you a help... I've just received m blacklite seat post from the assistance but they forget to put in the bag some component : one of these is the one that fit with the cable and you match with the trigger. is there a possibility to buy it somewhere? Anybody know the exact name of that particular? I know I've been kind of confusing, I'm sorry for that (and for my English too...)


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

lunchwagon said:


> One more thing, since I already had the post off the bike, I decided to convert my old SLX front shifter into the dropper remote lever (I run a 1x10 drivetrain). I found a few threads on here detailing the process. I haven't taken it out on a proper ride yet, but around the neighborhood it felt great! Much better than the Spec. remote. Really looking forward to this upgrade.


I'm yet to take mine on a "proper" off road ride but just short rides around the streets makes me think this out the best way to do it too. A much more natural feel.


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## goffy (Oct 20, 2014)

Hi,
My son has a command post on a recently purchased Stumpy expert,
the dropper works in all three positions fine, then randomly drops a small amount(maybe an inch or two) from its fully extended position when riding. press the lever and it pops up again.
on a ride it can happen quite a few times, ride for a mile or so no problems, then it goes again.
the couple of times he's rode it its been near 0-+3c.
Any advise please?
thanks in advance.


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## Trackho (Sep 23, 2011)

goffy said:


> Hi,
> My son has a command post on a recently purchased Stumpy expert,
> the dropper works in all three positions fine, then randomly drops a small amount(maybe an inch or two) from its fully extended position when riding. press the lever and it pops up again.
> on a ride it can happen quite a few times, ride for a mile or so no problems, then it goes again.
> ...


I've noticed mine can get a little funky in the cold- 2 years ago a replaced the grease with Mobil 1 per specialized that worked perfect for two years/ yesterday had to add air- I'd start there 40psi


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

goffy said:


> Hi,
> My son has a command post on a recently purchased Stumpy expert,
> the dropper works in all three positions fine, then randomly drops a small amount(maybe an inch or two) from its fully extended position when riding. press the lever and it pops up again.
> on a ride it can happen quite a few times, ride for a mile or so no problems, then it goes again.
> ...


Check the cable tension so there is just a tiny bit of play when you first hit the trigger( you should be able to press the trigger a tiny bit before the cable starts moving) There might be too much tension preventing the pin to return completely and so the collet might not be expanding completely. Then check the air pressure with the post fully expanded to see if it's within specs. When the post is returning to the fully expanded position it should be pretty forceful. If it's returning kind of slow then maybe it's not locking into position completely.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

How much air pressure do you guys normally use? Do you measure it with the post low or high?


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## goffy (Oct 20, 2014)

pwu_1 said:


> Check the cable tension so there is just a tiny bit of play when you first hit the trigger( you should be able to press the trigger a tiny bit before the cable starts moving) There might be too much tension preventing the pin to return completely and so the collet might not be expanding completely. Then check the air pressure with the post fully expanded to see if it's within specs. When the post is returning to the fully expanded position it should be pretty forceful. If it's returning kind of slow then maybe it's not locking into position completely.


Thanks for your replies,
I'll do some of the checks you advise tomorrow.
The post does return really quickly, something i noticed compared to my reverb, when he got the bike.
I'll have a look at the cable, then double check the pressure.
cheers


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## Trackho (Sep 23, 2011)

goffy said:


> Thanks for your replies,
> I'll do some of the checks you advise tomorrow.
> The post does return really quickly, something i noticed compared to my reverb, when he got the bike.
> I'll have a look at the cable, then double check the pressure.
> cheers


Prolly best place to start- last time I replaced the cable- I did make it too tight and it would self-lower- there should be a barrel adjuster for fine tuning
The low air has more to do with not extending- the psi spec is 40 max when fully extended


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

I have started loosing air in my Blacklite IR. I pump it up to 30-40 psi to start the ride and within 30 minutes, there is no air in it. Holds positions just fine, but have to manually adjust. I took it apart last week, cleaned it up, put Slick Honey everywhere, and it worked great. Fired up, thought I fixed it. 2 weeks later, now losing air again quickly. I assume the seals are shot and I need to get it serviced? If so, can a Spec shop do this in person, or do they have to send it out? If I can rebuild a RP23 with a new seal kit (not mechanically inclined), I would hope they could do this in house.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

if I recall there isn't any o-ring for the air seal, but a plastic bushing. I would make sure to take it off and clean/regrease then maybe replace if you don't see any grooves in the inner tube or not leaking at the valve (use soapy water to see where the air leak is).

I'm amazed it's an air shock, yet weights more than my old mechanical Gravity dropper post did...


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## KThaxton (Jun 4, 2009)

There is an o ring on the bottom cap of the standard BL, not sure about the IR.


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

IR is a bit different as the collett stays in the post and does not come out.


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

Finally disassembled my Blacklite after over three years (Dec '11 purchase) of year-round usage in the dry SW. It's been sluggish on the return for a while now, but it's always come up on it's own.

Comes apart easy enough, with only a couple parts that can fall out without grease to keep them stuck in and the whole process only takes a few minutes. It was slightly grungy, not as dirty as the post in the dis-assembly video though, and one petal of the collet had broken off. Kinda curious about how long it's been broken and when/if more will break off and when/if it will stop holding position.

Now it's back to snapping back up with ball-threatening authority, should have done it a while ago.

When it eventually stops working one day, I'll probably get another since they're still only $275 retail.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

richde said:


> Finally disassembled my Blacklite after over three years...one petal of the collet had broken off. Kinda curious about how long it's been broken and when/if more will break off and when/if it will stop holding position.


once you brake a couple it won't hold position anymore. reducing the rebound speed (or sit to slow it down) will reduce the chance to brake the collet. Do yourself a favor and order one now if you plan on replacing it (they are really hard to remove even with heat gun (used red thread) especially with most petals broken off) as it took Spec 2.5 months to get one! I ended up buying a spare used post so I wasn't waiting...

word of warning when cleaning. If you remove the white bushing, DO NOT move the dust seal near the groove or it will pop and that will be the end of it. I've learned it the hard way. 2+ month for the $5 'tool' to replace with a new $30 seal kit. Agrrr...


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## Heath27 (Nov 20, 2012)

Just curious were you able to get the tool and the seal kit from specialized?


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

adumesny said:


> once you brake a couple it won't hold position anymore. reducing the rebound speed (or sit to slow it down) will reduce the chance to brake the collet. Do yourself a favor and order one now if you plan on replacing it (they are really hard to remove even with heat gun (used red thread) especially with most petals broken off) as it took Spec 2.5 months to get one! I ended up buying a spare used post so I wasn't waiting...
> 
> word of warning when cleaning. If you remove the white bushing, DO NOT move the dust seal near the groove or it will pop and that will be the end of it. I've learned it the hard way. 2+ month for the $5 'tool' to replace with a new $30 seal kit. Agrrr...


Also interested about this $5 dollar 'tool'. You have any pics? I got 3 bikes all with this post(and a spare sitting around) so if the tool is only $5 bucks might be worth it for me to get it...


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

pwu_1 said:


> Also interested about this $5 dollar 'tool'. You have any pics? I got 3 bikes all with this post(and a spare sitting around) so if the tool is only $5 bucks might be worth it for me to get it...


the 'tool' is just black 2 shims I believe - it's back ordered for a couple months last I checked so I had to improvise and build some ramp up ones to de-stuck my dust caps. 
Using a spare post for now. You can see the 'tools' in the specialized video - vimeo.com #56110028 at 2:44

Note: you don't need those black shims unless you plan to replace your dust seal (or get it stuck in the white bushing groove like I did!)


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

adumesny said:


> once you brake a couple it won't hold position anymore. reducing the rebound speed (or sit to slow it down) will reduce the chance to brake the collet. Do yourself a favor and order one now if you plan on replacing it (they are really hard to remove even with heat gun (used red thread) especially with most petals broken off) as it took Spec 2.5 months to get one! I ended up buying a spare used post so I wasn't waiting...
> 
> word of warning when cleaning. If you remove the white bushing, DO NOT move the dust seal near the groove or it will pop and that will be the end of it. I've learned it the hard way. 2+ month for the $5 'tool' to replace with a new $30 seal kit. Agrrr...


Honestly, I'd upgrade to the new model just for the improved seat clamp. Not worth it while the current one still works, but having to adjust the saddle every couple rides is a bit of a letdown.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

richde said:


> Honestly, I'd upgrade to the new model just for the improved seat clamp. Not worth it while the current one still works, but having to adjust the saddle every couple rides is a bit of a letdown.


Didn't know they changed the seat clamp shells (I have old and new with cable quick release and new lever which are much better). Either way I use sanded paste (has little particles like sand) and crank the heck out of both - solved most issue even though I have the seat all the way back, unless I land hard on the back during a jump.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

richde said:


> Honestly, I'd upgrade to the new model just for the improved seat clamp. Not worth it while the current one still works, but having to adjust the saddle every couple rides is a bit of a letdown.


Carbon paste fixes that problem. The only time my seat moved on my was when I made a mistake that brought me down hard on the nose of my saddle. Otherwise it's been on 3 bike over 2 years and hasn't moved.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I cracked the shell of my Fizik Gobi and the seat clamp didn't move at all.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

I've had my Blacklite for 3 years now, luckily with no issues whatsoever including the seat clamp. That said, I really torque it to spec (120 pounds inch), which is pretty darn tight and I don't think I would ever torque it that high without a torque wrench.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Getting the seat clamp to not slip is easy and has been posted on this site many times. It has likely been posted in this thread. Just takes a bit o mechanical know-how.



I own two of the BL posts since they've come out which have worked great. There are many miles on each of them. The newer IR post is also good but have not riden it much yet. Have to admit that IR routing is sort of a hassle compared to the non-internal routing. The feel of the IR is smoother but I doubt I'd go that route again.


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## KThaxton (Jun 4, 2009)

I have to agree, I've had my Command Post for about four years. I am also a clyde, I have never had an issue with the seat clamp moving. I have always greased it, and torqued it per the instructions , even with normal grease and not the gritty carbon paste.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

dawgman25 said:


> I have started loosing air in my Blacklite IR. I pump it up to 30-40 psi to start the ride and within 30 minutes, there is no air in it. Holds positions just fine, but have to manually adjust. I took it apart last week, cleaned it up, put Slick Honey everywhere, and it worked great. Fired up, thought I fixed it. 2 weeks later, now losing air again quickly. I assume the seals are shot and I need to get it serviced? If so, can a Spec shop do this in person, or do they have to send it out? If I can rebuild a RP23 with a new seal kit (not mechanically inclined), I would hope they could do this in house.


FWIW, the IR is only supposed to have 25psi max. I've started having this same problem- where I put air in, and then after a couple of hours of regular use and/or a couple of days, it's losing pressure. The Spec manual says this issue is the Seal Head assembly and it needs to be serviced by a Spec dealer. Pretty bummed as this post is only a couple of months old. I've had several other Command Posts and nary an issue. I'm planning on also pulling the valve core out, putting a little slick honey on it and seeing if that helps (if that's where it might be losing air).


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

I got the PSI from old command post and my new one mixed up. Yes, around 25 psi. Had to send it back, Specialized warrantied it and turn around time was less than a week. They gave me a brand new post. This is my 3rd post and 3rd generation of posts I have had and the first time I have had an issue. Pretty dependable and good customer service.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

^great to hear that it was only a week. I hope I'm that lucky.


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## fanderson (Oct 17, 2005)

dawgman25 said:


> I have started loosing air in my Blacklite IR. I pump it up to 30-40 psi to start the ride and within 30 minutes, there is no air in it. Holds positions just fine, but have to manually adjust. I took it apart last week, cleaned it up, put Slick Honey everywhere, and it worked great. Fired up, thought I fixed it. 2 weeks later, now losing air again quickly. I assume the seals are shot and I need to get it serviced? If so, can a Spec shop do this in person, or do they have to send it out? If I can rebuild a RP23 with a new seal kit (not mechanically inclined), I would hope they could do this in house.


Anyone know for sure if you can buy a seal kit and fix the leaky air issue in the Command Post IR yourself? I'm having the same problem as dawgman25 but I bought used so I'm probably SOL for warranty.


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

I bought used too, but got lucky with my LBS as they warrantied it. I took care of them with a good case of beer. Took about 10 days round trip and works perfect again. I never did hear exactly what was wrong with it, they just ended up giving me a brand new post. Good luck.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

^I just dropped mine off end of last week and asked the LBS to ask if they could just order the seal kit. Haven't heard back anything... time for a follow-up call...


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

fanderson said:


> Anyone know for sure if you can buy a seal kit and fix the leaky air issue in the Command Post IR yourself? I'm having the same problem as dawgman25 but I bought used so I'm probably SOL for warranty.


Seal kit ($30) should do the trick - if you plan to replace the dust seal as well (which comes in the kit) make sure to also get the tool kit ($6) that includes 2 black shims that are required to pull the dust seal out past the groove where the white shims goes (learned that the hard way) - see vimeo.com number 56110028


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## fanderson (Oct 17, 2005)

adumesny, great info and video. Thanks. 

alshead, interested to know if your shop can get the parts for you. I don't have a dealer nearby, so I'd really like to just order direct.


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## Dr Wankel (Oct 2, 2007)

adumesny said:


> Seal kit ($30) should do the trick - if you plan to replace the dust seal as well (which comes in the kit) make sure to also get the tool kit ($6) that includes 2 black shims that are required to pull the dust seal out past the groove where the white shims goes (learned that the hard way) - see vimeo.com number 56110028


My dealer has told me that the seal kit and seal head kit are back-ordered until sometime in June.

I damaged the quad ring inside the seal head while trying to remove the seal head and clean it... My bad, I should have watched the entire video. :madman: I ended up finding a regular o-ring from the hardware store to get me by temporarily that appears to be holding pressure, we'll see for how long though, fingers crossed.

When it came time to get the seal head back on instead of using there black shims (which my dealer also said where on B/O) I left the white bushing in place in it's grove and took a thin strip of electrical tape cut to the width of the grove in the collet head and wrapped it in the groove until it was filled up flush with the diameter of the stanchion. Then lubed everything up with Slick Honey and slid the seal head back on. I had to rock the head slightly to get it past the white bushing but got it back on without too much fuss.


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

My Blacklite has been going strong since 2011, it's been pretty trouble free, but every now and again the action becomes slow/sticky despite full air pressure, and it won't go from the middle to top position on its own. When this happens I take the strap wrench to it, get the slider post off, clean and re-grease the collet/slider, and it's good to go again.

Last ride, it stopped going from middle to top position, so I figured it's time for another re-grease, it's been 6 months. The post was last in the full drop position. However, it's now stuck there. There is plenty of air pressure and the cable is fine. With the lever fully depressed, it absolutely will not come up, no matter how hard you pull up on the seat. 

I don't think there is anything else I can do other than take it to the LBS so it can be sent to Big S to see if the post can be salvaged (or just totaled since it's 4 years old and the repair cost may exceed its value, I'm sure it's out of warranty.) However has anyone had this happen, and what was your result?


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

Mine old one got stuck and the collet broke off a few pieces. Most likely need to get a new collet.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

zuuds said:


> The post was last in the full drop position. However, it's now stuck there. There is plenty of air pressure and the cable is fine. With the lever fully depressed, it absolutely will not come up, no matter how hard you pull up on the seat.
> 
> I don't think there is anything else I can do other than take it to the LBS so it can be sent to Big S to see if the post can be salvaged (or just totaled since it's 4 years old and the repair cost may exceed its value, I'm sure it's out of warranty.) However has anyone had this happen, and what was your result?


if you're sure your internal cable is still connected (spring pressure to fully depress) then likely you have some broken collet pieces preventing the paws from compressing.
You could try removing the air valve on the other side and putting some de-greaser to help unstuck any pieces and see if you hear some rattling or can dislodge whatever is loose. Replacing the collet (which I did) is a PAIN as you need a heat gun to brake the red glue and a very good wrench (groove is tiny) or their specialty tool if you have enough unbroken holes to hold on. collet is not cheap, so not that much saving vs sending it in (or getting a used one). bad design in so many ways... I've had to do 2 major repair.

Slowing rebound, or using your butt to stop will help prevent broken collet (don't slam it up!)


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## Trackho (Sep 23, 2011)

I was a black lite fan as mine worked great for almost 4 years- it died a few days ago of a broken collet. Specialized wouldn't fix it- got a Thomson to replace it we'll see


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Trackho said:


> I was a black lite fan as mine worked great for almost 4 years- it died a few days ago of a broken collet. Specialized wouldn't fix it- got a Thomson to replace it we'll see


They wouldn't fix it at all or they wouldn't fix it for free?


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## dawgman25 (Nov 14, 2010)

4 years is very good for a dropper post. It typically costs about $75 to fix and replace a new collet. If you needed to do this in the first year, that would be a bummer. But after 4 years, a $75 service is reasonable.


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## jpo1 (Jul 6, 2012)

Anyone break the bolt that tightens the seat tube clamps? Broke mine right in the middle of the bolt, and yes I was using a torque wrench. Can I pick one up at a hardware store or do I need to order from Specialized?


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## LaCostaClydesdale (Aug 1, 2013)

jpo1 said:


> Anyone break the bolt that tightens the seat tube clamps? Broke mine right in the middle of the bolt, and yes I was using a torque wrench. Can I pick one up at a hardware store or do I need to order from Specialized?


I broke mine in the middle too. Can't say I was using a torque wrench, though I do now. I was and still am using the promax ST clamp that has the cable routing ring. I just got a new clamp.

Promax DP-1 Dropper Seat Post Clamp > Components > Handlebars, Headsets and Saddles > Seatpost Collars | Jenson USA

Do you find that no matter how much you tighten it, the post gradually slides down the shaft? I feel like that is the case. A hard hit while seated or some serious grinding uphill in the saddle and I notice it has slid down a bit. Not sure if that is the seat tube or post diameter being off. I'm on an alloy Stumpjumper Fsr 29er (2012).

Anyone know if Friction paste would be a solution? I usually only use that with carbon parts.


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## jpo1 (Jul 6, 2012)

You know what my description wasn't very good. Let me try again, the bolt I broke tightens the clamps that holds the rails of the saddle. Its the torque bolt.

LaCostaClydesdale, I have used paste on my stem and steerer tube and that worked, wouldn't hurt to try with your seatpost.


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## bear (Feb 3, 2004)

LaCostaClydesdale, I had a problem where a Loaded XLite clamp wasn't big enough (vertically) to keep proper tension on the post, in the frame, of my bike. It mostly didn't move but it sure creaked. I swapped it out for a Cromag and the the post has never slipped and it doesn't creak in the frame either.

Carbon assembly paste is fine to use too, may or may not prevent the creak-ies over time though. Depends too much on frame+post fitment.


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## pabloquintana (Mar 17, 2010)

*My post was dropping for no reason - SOLVED*

Hi, I thought I might share with you, as I got this used Specialized Command Post IR with a problem. It was dropping during my rides from Power position (fully extended) to middle position without any interaction with the cable.

First I disconnected the cable to see if that was the problem, but didn't solve it. I assumed it had to be something inside.

I disassembled the post following the Specialized videos on Vimeo (links shared all around this thread) and found that the distance between the collet and the center yellow piece was less than spec.

I went on and adjusted the height, and first I went too much, which yielded the post with another problem: it was not returning when activating the lever. I opened it again and found I was out of spec this time being greater distance. I adjusted back and now is working great.

Hopefully this will help more people.


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## freeefunk (May 14, 2006)

*Loosen broken collet*

Anyone have any tips on loosening a broken collet? I blasted mine with a heat gun for about 5 mins but can't get it to budge.

Also how about clamping the post? I've been using a bike workstand but it doesn't seem to grip enough.

Any tips on gripping the collet? The notch for a wrench doesn't seem to provide enough surface.

Specialized has several tools to clamp the post and grip the collet but my dealer says they are not available i.e. they don't have them either to do the repair. Thanks!


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

had the same problem. ended up using a small torch (might have been a candle type lighter) to precisely heat just one part (separate expansion) and a very sharp wrench a mech friend had to finally get it off. I clamped the shaft with something to protect it. It was very hard... I had given up, but he refused to!


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## freeefunk (May 14, 2006)

Thanks adumesny, I'll keep at it. Do you think it's possible to overheat?


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## glano (Apr 12, 2009)

Will Specialized sell service parts to poor ole bike owners or do you need to be a Specialized shop and go through all that business?


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## glano (Apr 12, 2009)

Naturally, they don't. Frustrating. Take a cue from Fox, it's 2016 and people want to work on their own bikes/parts. Bike shops are great if that's your thing but for me it's a huge waste of time and money.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

glano said:


> Naturally, they don't. Frustrating. Take a cue from Fox, it's 2016 and people want to work on their own bikes/parts. Bike shops are great if that's your thing but for me it's a huge waste of time and money.


As much as I love my command posts, have a couple, I need a new post for my Mojo and I'm going with a Fox. This is one of the reasons.

I was looking for a saddle, Specialized is out of stock online, local shops don't have one in stock, but their stupid ass shipping rules- I can't get a shop that does have it to ship it to me.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

glano said:


> Naturally, they don't. Frustrating.


It's a huge PIA. I really would like to do some simple service on my posts (i have 3) but can't since Spec won't sell me a $1.50 tool. I have to finagle my LBS to pull strings in order wrangle one from them. I don't like wasting my LBS time.


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

Anyone tried to install a carbon rail saddle on their command post? I have an Ergon saddle with carbon rails which are almost rectangular in cross-section and it wouldn't come close to fitting, not because of the shape of the rails, but because of clearance issues. The Ergon saddle has a lower profile rail height and it doesn't seem to have enough room with the stock clamp. Any Ergon carbon users here?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Simplemind said:


> Anyone tried to install a carbon rail saddle on their command post? I have an Ergon saddle with carbon rails which are almost rectangular in cross-section and it wouldn't come close to fitting, not because of the shape of the rails, but because of clearance issues. The Ergon saddle has a lower profile rail height and it doesn't seem to have enough room with the stock clamp. Any Ergon carbon users here?


Maybe: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/components/alien-head-compatible-carbon-rail-saddle-adapter/105011


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

TwoTone said:


> Maybe: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/components/alien-head-compatible-carbon-rail-saddle-adapter/105011


Awesome, thanks!


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## avigilg (May 28, 2014)

Hello.... After moving the dust seal into the groove, how did you manage to take it out? It seems the $5 tool is preemptive, but now that it is stuck I can't take it out. (I'm learning the hard way, hope I had seen your post before...).


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## avigilg (May 28, 2014)

adumesny said:


> once you brake a couple it won't hold position anymore. reducing the rebound speed (or sit to slow it down) will reduce the chance to brake the collet. Do yourself a favor and order one now if you plan on replacing it (they are really hard to remove even with heat gun (used red thread) especially with most petals broken off) as it took Spec 2.5 months to get one! I ended up buying a spare used post so I wasn't waiting...
> 
> word of warning when cleaning. If you remove the white bushing, DO NOT move the dust seal near the groove or it will pop and that will be the end of it. I've learned it the hard way. 2+ month for the $5 'tool' to replace with a new $30 seal kit. Agrrr...


Hello.... After moving the dust seal into the groove, how did you manage to take it out? It seems the $5 tool is preemptive, but now that it is stuck I can't take it out. (I'm learning the hard way, hope I had seen your post before...).


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

avigilg said:


> Hello.... After moving the dust seal into the groove, how did you manage to take it out? It seems the $5 tool is preemptive, but now that it is stuck I can't take it out. (I'm learning the hard way, hope I had seen your post before...).


I went to hardware store and bought a plastic hole cover (maybe 3/4" or 1") can cut it until it fit (dremel and sand off) using the ramp edge on one side to slide it in there. Pretty much what the Spec tool does, but half the width since you don't have much space in there now. Even with this crude ramp I had to hammer the heck of it to get it back - seal was damaged enough to not hold air too well, so I had to get it out (using my temporary adapter until the real one came, and a new seal).

I may have mine for sale, incl Spec tool, as I don't think I'll use my post anymore (switched brand on new bike).


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