# What clamps do you suggest for my repair stand?



## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

I got this stand a few years ago, given to me as a gift. It was complete except for clamps. It really only needs one because that's all I'll ever really need. If I need 2 for a frame swap or something I can use my bench mount stand. I really like the old Ultimate black ones with the rubber dial on the end (couldn't find a pic or link because they aren't made anymore) but I also like the Park 100-3D. We have those at the shop I work in and I like them, very easy to use and versital. I'm not really a fan of the 100-3C or 100-2C. Do you guys have anything you'd suggest? Either Park, Feedback (formerly Ultimate), or something else? I know looks aren't everything and I don't care what it looks like but I am planning on stripping and painting the stand black, leaving the top chrome.


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## reptilezs (Aug 20, 2007)

100 3d and an extreme range clamp


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

reptilezs said:


> ...extreme range clamp


Those absolutely blow...they do become useful working on recumbents, tadpoles, and Giant Revives though..


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## reptilezs (Aug 20, 2007)

it sucks, slow and cumbersome but works with all the tt/tri bikes that i see.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

reptilezs said:


> it sucks, slow and cumbersome but works with all the tt/tri bikes that i see.


The PRS-20 is the best stand for areo bikes. Works well on anything but a through axle mtb. The prs-20 is about the same price as the extreme range head iirc.








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## reptilezs (Aug 20, 2007)

customfab said:


> The PRS-20 is the best stand for areo bikes. Works well on anything but a through axle mtb. The prs-20 is about the same price as the extreme range head iirc.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


if the shop gave me one of those instead of the traditional park stands i would probably quit


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## mechBgon (Jan 28, 2007)

A 100-3D gets my vote. They take up less space on a seatpost and handle most aero posts pretty well.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

reptilezs said:


> if the shop gave me one of those instead of the traditional park stands i would probably quit


Have you ever used one? It totally depends on what you do. For some things it's way easier than using a traditional seat post mounted stand. For other things it's slow, you can't just throw the saddle over the arm of it for a quick adjustment. There is a reason why stands of this style are pretty much all you see euro race mechanics using.


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## reptilezs (Aug 20, 2007)

i have not used one and don't intend to. i work on all kinds of bikes from department store bikes to fancy tt/tri bikes. don't have space for 2 stands(not gonna push one stand away and unfold another, no way). i dont see any advantages to the euro style stand. i am all about being fast and efficient, that stand doesnt even look close.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

reptilezs said:


> i have not used one and don't intend to. i work on all kinds of bikes from department store bikes to fancy tt/tri bikes. don't have space for 2 stands(not gonna push one stand away and unfold another, no way). i dont see any advantages to the euro style stand. i am all about being fast and efficient, that stand doesnt even look close.


Close minded mechanics are the best kind! lol.

Those stands rock for certain things, aero bikes are one of them. I run a repair shop out of a truck, talk about tight for space. Those stands fold up small enough that the thing is still worth keeping on board. If I can do a wheel change in 40 seconds on the side of a road during a race I think I can take a front wheel on and off fast enough that the stand isn't going to slow me down. Plus it's the safest and most secure way to work on an aero bike. If you would open your eyes long enough to try it you would realize that it's just like any other tool, It has it place and it's perfect for a few things and horrible at others.


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## reptilezs (Aug 20, 2007)

call it what you want but i have not been sold on it. if its just good for clamping aero bikes then no thanks


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Looking for suggestions on clamps for my stand guys..don't care about whatever you're arguing about. I've got the stand, just need a clamp.


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## reptilezs (Aug 20, 2007)

http://www.biketoolmaker.com/evt/Repair_Clamp,_Dishing_Gage,_Headset,_Hanger_Alignment.html i don't know of any other heads that have not been mentioned and will fit


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

That is a very cool clamp actually


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> That is a very cool clamp actually


I remember Mike at Black Mountain Cycles posting on his blog about getting one of those so he might have some feedback for you. I believe they are quite pricey, but sometimes you gotta pay to get the best


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

boomn said:


> I believe they are quite pricey, but sometimes you gotta pay to get the best


Shh, don't tell anyone, but I work at a shop..while I think it's a cool clamp I'll probably stick with a Park because I get a discount. Just seeing what you guys think of them or other major manufacturers


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## wbmason55 (May 30, 2010)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> Looking for suggestions on clamps for my stand guys..don't care about whatever you're arguing about. I've got the stand, just need a clamp.


I used a modified version of this DIY solution  for my stand. I ended up simplifying the design so that the clamp does NOT rotate when I discovered that you cannot sleeve a 3/4" iron pipe into a 1" iron pipe without first honing the I.D. of the 1" I.P. (read comments section.) I spent ~$5 for pipe clamp at Harbor Freight, ~$10 for iron pipe and fittings.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

wbmason55 said:


> this DIY solution


Very cool idea. I may use that on one side and an actual clamp on the other. That way I have 2 but don't have to spend a bunch since I will rarely use 2 :thumbsup: I love how they painted it like a Park stand


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

I think what I am going to do is this. Buy a Park 100-3D for the majority of repair work. Then make one like wbmason55 introduced and get it to mount into my repair stand and swivel just like the Park one. I mean c'mon, a dual clamp repair stand would just look silly with only one clamp right?  I'll find a way to maybe make the DIY one a bit better (find something other than wood and it's bombproof in my eyes), then paint it all up to look "Park"-y, maybe throw a Park decal on it. And I should be good to go. Just gotta figure out how to get the pipe clamp to attach nicely to a 2" OD pipe that goes into the stand itself and look somewhat decent...


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Found it! I'll find some "U" shaped channels or a pipe cut down the center to replicate the pads on this Ultimate Clamp. Bolt them to the pipe clamp just like the wood, but it will be much stronger and sleeker looking. I can get some rubber to glue on after everything is bolted up and painted.










Sorry for blabbing on and over posting. This thread is kind of like my drawing board to store ideas. Feel free to steal any of them and post up pictures :thumbsup:

*edit* these are the clamps we have at work and I absolutely love them. Unfortunately Feedback (formerly Ultimate) does not make one like it anymore. Or I would buy 2 :lol:


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## Berkeley Mike (Jan 13, 2004)

Park Item # 100-3C
Adjustable Linkage Clamp

Big fan here. Adjusts to all of my tubes. Rotates. Strong. Quick.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Berkeley Mike said:


> Park Item # 100-3C
> Adjustable Linkage Clamp
> 
> Big fan here. Adjusts to all of my tubes. Rotates. Strong. Quick.


We have those at my shop..we all hate them  I'm not a fan. While I do agree that it is quick and one of the simplest designs..I'm just not a fan. My bench mount stand is the Park PCS-12 and the 100-3D is the exact same clamp just smaller, which leans me toward that one.


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## LWM803 (May 8, 2011)

If you are interested in DIY clamps here a couple which I threw together for my homemade stand which have worked out quite well. The Pony clamp based one is solid as a rock, the Vise Grip one, while easier to operate with one hand does have a bit of flex in the arms. They both have their place and see relatively frequent use. The Pony clamp one has the "battle scars" of hold the frame of my wife's bike when I painted it black.....

In both cases I used 1x1x1/8" angle iron for jaws and lined them with leather. All the welding is MIG, but any process would do.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

LWM803 said:


> View attachment 626999


This is exactly like what I want to do (your last picture). I'll probably use some pipe I have in the back to get the "U" shape I want, not the "V" shape. I just need to find out how to get it to attach firmly to a 2" OD pipe to put into my repair stand. Any ideas?


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## PG256 (Apr 21, 2009)

The shop I work at just switched over our last 100-3C to 100-3D. The 3Ds are much more versatile.


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## LWM803 (May 8, 2011)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> This is exactly like what I want to do (your last picture). I'll probably use some pipe I have in the back to get the "U" shape I want, not the "V" shape. I just need to find out how to get it to attach firmly to a 2" OD pipe to put into my repair stand. Any ideas?


The U shape would work but on a more limited range of tubing diameter than a V shape. I used the angle iron for the versatility but my stand is sometimes called on to serve as a welding positioner, light stand, hat rack, beer holder etc., not just for bicycles. It's my all around shop stooge.

I'm not sure about fitting the 2" pipe. When trying to find telescoping tubing, I generally just try a variety of samples to find what fits best. The receiver tube on my stand is a good example of that. I wanted my clamp to rotate smoothly so after experimenting with everything close to the right size that I had laying around the shop, I ended up cutting a few inches off the end of the handle on a rebar bender. Kinda hated to do it but the tubing was the perfect size and I can weld anything back on the bender in it's place.......:thumbsup:

I look forward to seeing what you come up with on the clamp.:thumbsup:


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## LWM803 (May 8, 2011)

I just realized that I was off on a wild tangent on the 2" OD pipe question.

If you need the clamp to have a 2" od shaft to fit the socket on your stand as I think I understand it, I do have an idea that would likely work.

I would;

Cut a plug (disc) to the inside diameter of the 2" tubing from some plate (1/4 should do nicely)

Drill or cut a 1" hole in the center of the disc.

Cut the 2" tubing to length.

Position the disc inside the 2" tubing and weld it in place.

Insert the 3/4" pipe (for the pony clamp) into the 3/4" hole and slide the 2" to where you want it positioned and weld it in place. 

It should work a treat. You might need a brace or two on the end of the 2" without the disc to help stabilize everything or you could just use a disc at each end.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

LWM803 said:


> I just realized that I was off on a wild tangent on the 2" OD pipe question.
> 
> If you need the clamp to have a 2" od shaft to fit the socket on your stand as I think I understand it, I do have an idea that would likely work.
> 
> ...


That's what I was thinking. But I just don't have the resources. I have a welder, well my father does, but not a single tool that can cut 1/4" plate.


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## LWM803 (May 8, 2011)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> That's what I was thinking. But I just don't have the resources. I have a welder, well my father does, but not a single tool that can cut 1/4" plate.


Well, in that case, you could try this.

A hole saw can be used on 1/4" plate, a drill press (at a slow speed) and plenty of cutting oil would be a good idea. Just choose a hole saw that will leave you with a disc close to the ID of the 2" tubing. Then use the same pilot hole to guide the second 1" hole saw for the center hole. But this approach does require access to a decent drill press.

Or, fitting might be a bit more difficult but it could also be done with flat bar. Instead of a disc just cut short bits of flat bar to fit the gap between the 3/4" and the 2", kind of like spokes on a wheel. The cutting for this one should require nothing more than a hack saw (or suitable substitute).


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

If worst comes to worst I will just find a piece of 2" pipe and weld the pipe clamp to the inside of it. It will be off-center but it will still work. It will look like this picture (please ignore the 60cm marking, I found this picture on google to show what I'm thinking of doing). I think this will be strong enough and work just fine until I find out a better option.


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## LWM803 (May 8, 2011)

Yep, that would hold. The main disadvantage to that would be that you end up fighting gravity when rotating the clamp. Probably not that big a deal in practice.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

I would weld it in place so that the pipe is at the bottom and clamp faces the way I want to help with that. That way 90% of the time I won't need to fight gravity


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## LWM803 (May 8, 2011)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> I would weld it in place so that the pipe is at the bottom and clamp faces the way I want to help with that. That way 90% of the time I won't need to fight gravity


Okay, hope that works out for you. If not, it's no big deal to cut it loose and change it. That's one advantage to building your own equipment, you can always modify what does not work out as expected. Good luck with your fabrication.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Thank you. I just found a piece of 2" pipe hiding in my shed that's about 4 feet long so I'll have plenty of that. I'm stopping by my local Harbor Freight tomorrow on my lunch break to pick up a clamp along with a free tape measure and screwdriver set (and I have a coupon for 20% off too!) So hopefully within the next couple weeks I'll have time to get it to my father and weld it. Plus just a bit ago I started making some "U" shaped pieces for the clamp. What do you suggest using to protect the frame? I think I have some sheets of 1/8" rubber somewhere that I could glue on.


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## LWM803 (May 8, 2011)

I'm having good results with leather jaws on my clamps but rubber would probably work as well. Let me know how those U shaped jaws work out. I have never tried that but it seems that they would work really well on only one size of tubing while the V shape will grip 4 points on just about any diameter.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

I wasnt' going to make a full "u" or half the pipe. It would be less than half so it would fit around most tubes well....but it all doesn't matter because I changed out the jaws on the clamps at work today and scored a set of old jaws :thumbsup: still need to be covered but they are the same as the Ultimate jaws above.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

*Update!*

Starting to gather parts for the homemade clamp. I went to Harbor Freight today after work and got the clamp, found some 2" pipe in my shed hiding in the corner, and recycled the jaws from the ultimate clamp. Here's some pictures of what I've got going. Oh, and I had a coupon for a free screw driver set from Harbor Freight so those will come in handy one day :thumbsup: I'm going to Lowe's to get a threaded 3/4" pipe for the clamp, then I'll start cutting and welding when I get the time 

Here's the parts










And here's the pipe, I will cut it down to size and clean it up sometime this week hopefully


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

*Update...*

After work today I measured and cut everything down to it's proper size. All that's left is to weld, which I plan on finishing sometime this week. Here are the pics so far.

2" pipe cut down to size to fit, it is hanging out a bit so you can see it better.









Clamp pipe cut down to size next to 2" pipe









Everything mocked up to give an idea on what it will look like. It doesn't have the jaws on yet and it's not in the clamp 100% of the way. Also it won't be at that angle, that is just how it lays in the stand


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

*More Progress*

I got the jaws attached to the pipe clamp and got some protective rubber on the jaws. Check out the pics below. I used 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive to connect the jaws to the clamp. Stuff is absolutely amazing. The auto industry is coming so far with technologies to make repairs quicker and easier. This stuff holds great. Only way I'll be able to get those jaws off is with a sharp chisel and a lot of hammering. I'm going to clean up the excess Panel Bond that you can see around the edges. For the rubber on the jaws I used part of an old motorcycle tube which is very thick and secured it with thin streams of superglue. That way it will hold but I can replace it when needed. I actually put it in the vise for shits and giggles and can use it as a bench mount stand that way :thumbsup: I took a few pics from different angles so you can see what I did. I really like how easy it is to use. I can push the non-fixed side of the clamp up to the seatpost and with about a half turn on the other side it is secure. Very fast, easy and secure. To release just take that half turn back, and use the metal release thing to pull the other side away. It's a very simple and clean clamp. All that's left is to weld it to the 2" pipe and use it in the repair stand. Any questions or if you need other pics just post.


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## wbmason55 (May 30, 2010)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> I got the jaws attached to the pipe clamp and got some protective rubber on the jaws. Check out the pics below. I used 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive to connect the jaws to the clamp. Stuff is absolutely amazing. The auto industry is coming so far with technologies to make repairs quicker and easier. This stuff holds great. Only way I'll be able to get those jaws off is with a sharp chisel and a lot of hammering. I'm going to clean up the excess Panel Bond that you can see around the edges. For the rubber on the jaws I used part of an old motorcycle tube which is very thick and secured it with thin streams of superglue. That way it will hold but I can replace it when needed. I actually put it in the vise for shits and giggles and can use it as a bench mount stand that way :thumbsup: I took a few pics from different angles so you can see what I did. I really like how easy it is to use. I can push the non-fixed side of the clamp up to the seatpost and with about a half turn on the other side it is secure. Very fast, easy and secure. To release just take that half turn back, and use the metal release thing to pull the other side away. It's a very simple and clean clamp. All that's left is to weld it to the 2" pipe and use it in the repair stand. Any questions or if you need other pics just post.


That turned out really nice. Makes me want to modify my own jaws from the wood block style. I never thought of using an adhesive for the pipe clamp to jaw connection. The pipe clamps do not have much of a flat flange to bolt through, so I I think the 3M is the way to go.

Question: If you were using a halved pipe section, or angle stock on the 45 instead of the faceted jaw profile that you used, do you think you would get sufficient purchase to get a good bond? If I were to guess, I'd say the pipe would work, the angle stock, no.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Honestly I would use the pipe over the angled stock. I think the pipe (not halved, closer to a third) would fit all sized tubes better. I've had some experience with the panel bond and the pipe would work, I doubt it on the angled though.


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## LWM803 (May 8, 2011)

While I have had very little exposure to bicycle stands, I do have extensive exposure to welding/pipe clamps. In virtually all such clamps the jaws are more "V" shaped, some may swivel but they still form a "V" shape. A radiused jaw would fit one size perfectly, any smaller would result in only two points of contact (center of each jaw, any wider would result in 4 points of contact (both edges of each jaw).

Do most bicycle stands have "U" shaped jaws? Do any of them?

I am just curious, not trying to "stir the pot".


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Most of them do have a "U" shape. If you look at the picture below of the Park clamp you can see that except for the recessed area for the cable to go through it is basically a circle. I totally understand the 4 point contact thing, but I was just trying to recreate that shape..not a complete half circle but a little more than a third. If you know what I'm trying to say. I realize the overall shape looks to be a "V", but when you look close it is circular with a recessed area for cables.


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## LWM803 (May 8, 2011)

Yes, I see how that stepped "U" shape could work well.


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

How well is the panel bonding adhesive holding up? Have you made any modifications to the clamps or are they still working well?


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Still working very well, and holding up great. Not too much use though, with school starting right after this thread stopped getting replies I haven't used it as much. The bench mount Park stand I have is just too easy to use at the moment since the one I'm making has not been welded yet. Even if it was welded I do not have a way to bolt the stand to the floor yet. But the times I have clamped it in the vise it has held up very very well


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

*Update:*

Welding is complete!

As of right now the paint is drying and I will post up pictures of it later this evening. I got the two pipes welded together at the edges and also 6 plug welds along the length of the pipe. After that was able to grind and sand it smooth followed by a nice coat of black to keep it looking pretty :thumbsup: Very pleased with the final product. With time I will post updates on it's performance. I do work in a shop so when business picks up in the spring I am planning on bringing it in and using it for a couple weeks to see how some use will affect it. For home use it is absolutely bomb proof. For less than $10 and roughly 3 hours of work I am very happy with it.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

*Pictures!*

Finally completed!










Here is the back side..welds look very rough for some reason in this picture (I can only assume it is the lighting and/or the crappy cell phone pic) however they are clean and somewhat smooth after slight grinding and being painted










Here is a picture looking down from the clamp. Nice and clean like the back, even though it didn't show it. Paint was to protect from rust and give it a clean look for pictures  If you've been following the thread I used a rough piece of pipe so the paint really brings it to life. The paint line is roughly where the stand will cover it so it won't even be too noticable once put together. Sorry guys, I don't have any pics of it in the stand yet.










The back side of the pipe grinded down all smooth so it would rotate in the stand without issues










Let me know what you guys think! :thumbsup:


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> Finally completed!
> 
> Let me know what you guys think! :thumbsup:


I think it's great! I'm still having some clamp envy... If/when I get around to updating my workstand I'll try to fabricate something similar to your clamps. Very nice setup! :thumbsup:


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

*Fresh Pics!*

Finally got some time to put it all together and take some pictures of everything :thumbsup:










The stand is still not bolted to the floor and I have no base for it, so to get these pictures I had to shove it under my truck tire :lol: Everything is solid, very nice. The rubber motorcycle tube that I superglued to the clamp jaws won't last too long, so when I start using it more I will need to find a more secure way to attach the rubber strips. I like how quick and easy it is to use...if you guys are familiar with these clamps you know how they work. I can pull the back clamp right up to the seatpost and with about 1 turn of the handle everything is secure. Very quick and easy. The panelbond is holding up great..I was really stressing on it, twisting and pulling the bike (trying to replicate the forces of removing a bottom bracket or similar repair). No breaks, cracks, or even signs of weakness. Overall I'm very impressed! 

Here are some pictures of the stand with the bike in it.























































As you guys can see, the stand is in pretty rough condition from being used so much..I'm thinking of getting it powdercoated...black? Ideas? Opinions? For having less than $10 in the entire stand...I would happily throw $50 (roughly) for a nice clean finish to it. I was thinking black and having all of the adjustment knobs for the base and 2 clamps the same red as the clamp.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Well..I apologize for all of the pictures being sideways..just spent the last 10 minutes editing them so they weren't..but apprently that didn't work :lol: I'll try to re-do them and edit the previous post


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Dammit Photobucket!!! whether the pictures are sideways or the right way in my album they show up sideways on here...apologies! :madman:


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Fixed  post #50 has all the pictures haha


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

LWM803 said:


> Yep, that would hold. The main disadvantage to that would be that you end up fighting gravity when rotating the clamp. Probably not that big a deal in practice.


Turns out, I actually had no issues with gravity when rotating it. I, like you, figured it would rotate funky since the inner pipe was being welded to the inside of a side of the larger pipe..to solve this I welded everything together so that the clamp was opposite the weld (you may be able to see what I'm saying in the pictures). since the pipe was offset and so was the clamp, welding it the way I did solved the gravity issue. Even with the bike in the clamp and flipping the bike upside down (pictured earlier) it rotated very smoothly just like my Park bench mount stand.

More updates to come!


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## DAnREal (Aug 29, 2009)

So I'm hooking to use your design, how ever ill be making the stand from scratch, any idea what I can use to make the inner pipe swivel perhaps a bearing system but what to use to lock the pipe down in the position I need


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

DAnREal said:


> So I'm hooking to use your design, how ever ill be making the stand from scratch, any idea what I can use to make the inner pipe swivel perhaps a bearing system but what to use to lock the pipe down in the position I need


I used a split-ring hanger and a thumb screw.










More info here if you're interested.


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## DAnREal (Aug 29, 2009)

marpilli said:


> I used a split-ring hanger and a thumb screw.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's what I was wanting to do but with a bolt and wrench (jb weld) them together or even weld them together that way I can rotate the bike and tighten with one hand..... sows the pipe slip at all since it metal on metal?


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

The only way I could get it tight enough to not slip was by using an adjustable wrench as leverage to really tighten down the thumb screw. I remember seeing a work stand build where someone used the same design except they used a quick release seat post collar. I plan on trying that out next time I remember to get a measurement from the clamped pipe OD.


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## myisland (Jul 28, 2018)

*Where do I get a Profile Design stand?*

Where do I get a Profile Design stand?


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

i think that's a park tool stand with a sticker?


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