# BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

This thread is to be all about the BikeYoke REVIVE, and I´ll try to collect all relevant information and findings in *this initial post*. So it´s worth stopping by here once in a while, as I´ll try to keep the information in this post up to date constantly.
Before asking question, please check, if you you can find the answer in the first post.

Please note, that you should only work on your post, if you know what you are doing, and if you are an experienced mechanic. Those information may not be exhaustive.
Any work performed by the customer is performed at its own risk.

Alright, here we go.
Let me know, if you want me to add, or if I missed something.

*GENERAL MAINTENANCE*

*Checking air pressure:*

1. Place the post right side up and perform a proper reset. The post can remain in the frame.
2. Fully extend the post.
3. After the reset and extension, give it at least one minute of rest to let the oil drain off the reset valve area. Oil can then run down on the ID of the stanchion, away from the air valve and reset valve.
4. Remove saddle clamps and air valve cap
5. Attach air pump and air adapter.

*NOTE: Never release air without a pump attached, as releasing too quickly can cause oil to exit the post, which then has to be refilled. Always use the pump´s release mechanism and release slowly !*

6. Fill up the post to desired pressure.
Factory setting is 250psi. Less pressure will make the post slower, more pressure will make the post quicker. Don´t got below 200psi or higher than 300psi! 
7. Remove the pump and adapter and make sure, not to cause pressure loss from inside the post when doing so. Even a little air loss could mean significant pressure loss, as the air volume inside the post is very small. 
8. Reinstall air valve cap and saddle clamps.

*NOTE: Only lightly attach pump and/or air adapter. If you tighten the adapter too firmly, the o-rings inside adapter and pump might get squeezed and cause the valve core to stay open for a split second too long. This can result in oil loss and will lead to malfunction. **Be very careful when attaching the pump and adapter. Don´t tighten them too much!*

*
Lower tube service*

If your lower tube is dirty on the inside, or if the guiding pins and/or bushings are worn, your post should receive a lower tube service, our so called "100hr", service".

Here you can find a video for the lower service:




Read the description!

*NOTE:
Do not release the air just for the lower tube service. This is not neccessary and you only risk losing oil. If you anyway want to release air, then please follow the guide above.
Upper bushing usually does not need to be replaced during the first couple lower tube services. It ist much more important to properly clean and re-grease the tubes, and replacing the pins and the small foam ring, if worn.*

*Recommended greases:
R.S.P. Soft Grease
R.S.P. Slick Kick
Buzzy's Slick Honey
SRAM Butter
KS Post Paste*

*NOTE: 
Do not use WD40, Brunox, Fork Juice or similar (penetrating) oils on your REVIVE or on any other your suspension parts in general. Those products will just wash out your grease over time!** Also do not use any other oil inside your lower tube. Proper grease is the way to go.*

It is recommended to externally grease your stanchion wiper once in a while. Just apply some grease after wiping it clean and dry. Remove eccessive grease. This will help repell water and keep your rubber soft.

There are not a lot of special tools that you need for taking your post apart, and the most "exotic" ones might be circlip pliers. Those are the ones we use:

for big circlip for lower tube
Knipex 48 41 J21
https://www.knipex.de/index.php?id=1216&L=0&page=art_detail&parentID=1365&groupID=1457&artID=34787

for small circlip for the cartridge/lower bushing
Knipex 49 41 A11
https://www.knipex.de/index.php?id=1216&L=0&page=art_detail&parentID=1365&groupID=1458&artID=34789

*TROUBLESHOOTING REVIVE*

*I had reset my REVIVE, but it still sags play*
In rare cases, a lot of air could have gotten inside the hydraulic lockout tube, or the oil started foaming for some reason. In this case, it can require multiple resets to remove all air. Give your post a few seconds between every rest procedure and perform them not too quickly.

*My REVIVE sags a bit under heavy load*
Every hydraulically locked seatpost - no matter the brand - can be compressed slightly. This is normal. Just a few of the reasons for this behavior can be found below:


Unlike one may think, oil is not completely incompressible. Oil can be slightly compressed.
O-rings need space for proper installation and function inside their grooves. This means, o.rings allow minimal movement and this can add up over several o-rings.
Tubes can change shape under pressure, especially, if thin-walled and under inner pressure. Bloading tubes can have more volume and allow the post to move.
All those and more contribute to the pehomenon, that you may be able to slightly compress the post under high load. However, this movement does not feel springy, as if the post had air inside. It feels very hard and you can only notice the compression for example, if you look at the wiper and the stanchion moving in by 1-2mm.

*My remote lever does not return properly*
This may come from one of the two reasons:


*The bottom actuation assembly ist dirty or not greased.*
Your frame inside can collect water or mud over time from washing or riding in muddy conditions. Water can cause corrosion and/or wash away the grease from the bottom actuation unit and/or dirt. Mud can stick to the actuator and cause it to go get stuck.
Cleaning yor post and re-greasing the actuator should help in this case.
You should be advised to remove your post after washing the bike and let the frame dry from the inside, too. You´ll be suprised, how easily sometimes water can accumulate inside a frame
Keeping your frame dry on the inside is not only good for the post, it´ll also prolong the life of your frame bearings and BB.
*Pressure is not high enough.* 
Normal pressure inside the REVIVE is usually between 210-250psi (factory setting = 250 psi) Less pressure means not only, that the post returns slower, but it also, that remote is easier to push. If the pressure is too low, the resulting force on the actuator may not be high enough to push the actuator back to full extension.
Set the pressure back to the factory setting following the air-setup instructions above.
Using a valve key, please also check proper torque for the valve core. After installation, valve cores and seats can settle and require re-tightening.Correct torque for valve cores is 0.3-0.5 Nm.

*
My post is moving very stickily and/or slowly*
Find a few possible reasons below:


*Pressure too low*
Set the post bakc to 250psi
*Seat clamp/collar is too tight*
Check your seat clamp / seat collar for proper torque. If clamps are not tightended properly, or if seattubes are not reamed properly, a seat clamp can squeeze the lower tube and cause binding of the tubes to each other. Check your seattube for proper inner diameter and your collar for proper torque. Torque only enough to allow no movement while riding normally. It is OK for the post to move, when you fall, or if it gets an impact from the side. You may know this advice from your brake levers. In case of crash, it is OK, if parts can move.
*Foam ring is clogged*
At the bottom of your post, you can spot several small holes. Those holes are important, as the post lower tube needs to „breathe" during extending and lowering. On the inner side those holes are covered by a small foam ring, which allowe air flow, but keeps most dirt and contamination out of the post. If this foam ring is clogged, the air can not enter/exit the lower tube during movement and will slow down the action and might even stop it in the middle of moving. You can easily clean this foam ring, by removing the lower circlip. Siding up the lower tube will giv you acces to the foam ring and you can use a clean tissue to clean it. If it needs to be replaced, you need a REVIVE service kit and perform a "100hr service".
*Contaminated lower tube *
Dirt inside the lower tube increases friction. Perform a 100hr lower tube service.
*Low temperatures*
REVIVE is designed to work in low temperatures, even below 0°C. However, please note, that you may need to re-adjust the pressure when riding in the cold. Your post will not have the same pressure, when going from cozy the house onto the cold winter trail. Colder tempertures will slow the post down, as pressure decreases. Set the pressure for the tempereratur you are goinf to use the post in.
*NOTE: Don´t forget to re-set the pressure for warmer temperatures!*

*My remote (or reset function) is extremely hard to enage*
This is very likely due to a big temperature difference between using the post and storing the post.
If the post has time to heat up, while it is not being used, the temperature increase will make the oil want to expand. Since the oil is housed in a closed space, the oil can not expand, instead the pressure increases.
Examples:
You ride in sub-zero temps, and store the bike at +20°C in the house.
You ride the bike in summer, then put the bike in your car, where it heats up.
This extra pressure needs to be overcome through either the reset valve or the main valve via the remote. Once you enganged either the reset function or the remote, the pressure will equalize and post will work normally.

The easiest was to release the extra pressure form the inner chamber is by using a 4mm hex key and engage the reset function. Never use the small REVIVE Quick-Reset-Lever to opene the stiffened-up post, as you may break the lever. Use a 4mm L-shaped Allen key instead.

*NOTE: It can help to store the bike with not fully extended, but a half-way dropped post.*

*
My REVIVE or my saddle are creaking*
First make sure, that it is really the post and not the saddle, that is creaking. Make sure your upper saddle clamp is aligned properly and that your bolts are tightenend evenly with 7Nm. The bolt shafts and threads need to be clear an not touch the saddle clamp and or the post head.

*NOTE: The upper clamp can be slightly repositioned during fastening the bolts. You can slide the upper clamp back and forth slightly while tightening. If the upper clamp is positioned too much forward, the bolts can touch the upper clamp or the post head and cause creaking. Hold the upper clamp back with your fingers, while you tighten the bolts evenly.
Especially on frames with slack seattube angles and/or saddles that are pointing nose-downward need can cause contact between bolt and post head/clamp. Proper alignment of the upper clamp can help*.

*
REVIVE, WEIGHTS
*125/30.9: 465g 
125/31.6: 486g 
125/34.9: 530g

160/30.9: 525g 
160/31.6: 545g 
160/34.9: 590g

185/30.9: 560g 
185/31.6: 580g 
185/34.9: 630g

Triggy without clamp: 23g 
Splits Clamp: 13g

Ti-saddle-clamp-bolts save about 10g compared to regular bolts.

*Links to interesting media content about droppers in general:* https://www.bikerumor.com/2018/01/24/suspension-tech-how-much-dropper-seatpost-travel-do-you-need/ 
https://www.bikerumor.com/2018/02/0...termine-what-dropper-post-will-fit-your-bike/ 
https://www.bikerumor.com/2018/02/0...ntain-your-dropper-seatpost/#comment-32220407 https://www.bikerumor.com/2018/02/14/suspension-tech-how-to-pick-a-dropper-seatpost-remote/

*
Dropper length comparison (market overview):
*Dropper Seatposts*

REVIVE test reviews: 
*Pinkbike review
Vital MTB shootout
NSMB review
Spoke Magazine review
Velomotion shootout
Sicklines long term review - part one 
Sicklines long term review - part two
NSMB review
MBR shootout
MTBR review
Singletracks review
OutdoorGearLab - Dropper Shootout
OutDoorGearLab - single review
Vojomag - NL
Vojomag - FR
AMBMAG - AUS
Rotorburn*

Additonal helpful information:
*


We are currently not planning on dropper posts with more than 185mm drop.
No, we are currently not planning on droppers posts for 27.2mm seat tube diameter.


How do I know, if my REVIVE has Microvalve or not?

1. All REVIVE MAX have Microvalve
2. All REVIVE 185 have Microvalve
3. Following serial numbers have Microvalve feature:

1705xxx, 1706xxx, 1707xxx......... and higher
1801xxx, 1802xxx, 1803xxx......... and higher
2705xxx, 2706xxx, 2707xxx......... and higher
2801xxx, 2802xxx, 2803xxx......... and higher

*
REVIVE explosion drawing:
*


----------



## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Good info. Thanks for posting


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## FitmanNJ (May 23, 2011)

Many thanks for compiling all of this information!


----------



## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

Great customer service here for real riders 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


----------



## ~Ish (Aug 25, 2009)

Agree thanks for starting this thread!


----------



## ~Ish (Aug 25, 2009)

The first time I tried fitting the reset lever to my new post I split the retaining o-ring. What are the specs on the o ring so I can swing by the hardware store and grab a new one?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

It is a 2.5x1.0 O-ring. Size is not very important, all it does is generating friction to keep the lever inside. As long as there is enough sqeeze, you can use any o-ring. You may as well use a cut rubber band or a thread and wrap it around the groove. As long as it makes the lever stay inside by squeeze, anything should be fine.


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

I used some BS607 o-rings. 2.54x1.02mm primarily as they're pretty easy to get hold of in the UK. If I'd struggled, I would have tried ptfe plumbing tape next.


----------



## pryde1 (May 27, 2013)

Currently doing a lower service and my v2 service kit has an IGUS bushing that is not present in my post. Do I replace what is currently in my post with the IGUS? if so, what needs swapped? thanks.

The video here is what my post looks like:





The video here has the IGUS bushing:





Thanks for the help...


----------



## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

is it ok to clamp the post in a work stand to hold up the bike?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Better not


----------



## pryde1 (May 27, 2013)

pryde1 said:


> Currently doing a lower service and my v2 service kit has an IGUS bushing that is not present in my post. Do I replace what is currently in my post with the IGUS? if so, what needs swapped? thanks.
> 
> The video here is what my post looks like:
> 
> ...


Replying to my own post as I just seen there is running change to replace the old lower bushing and metal washer with just the new gray IGUS bushing.

Already put in back together with the old bushing/metal washer so guess I missed that one. Oh well, everything actually looked pretty good but I went ahead a replaced the 6 pins and wiper seal.

If someone says it is crucial to put in the new IGUS bushing then I will pull it back apart but otherwise I will leave it be.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

@ Pryde1: As long as you don´t have any noticeable play, it is fine to not replace the lower bushing or the pins and just clean and re-grease the post.

@cjsb: Well, I always clamp my posts in my bike-stand, and never had any issues. However, I have rubber/plastic clamping jaws, which are clean and I do not use too much force to clamp. 
Also: Never use the bike-stand to forcingly keep the bike in a certain postion. Allow the bike-stand/bike to even out.
That being said, yes you can clamp your post in a proper bike stand with proper jaws (or wrapped in old tire tubes). 
BUT you can also damage your post, if you are really not using your brain.


----------



## pryde1 (May 27, 2013)

sacki said:


> @ Pryde1: As long as you don´t have any noticeable play, it is fine to not replace the lower bushing or the pins and just clean and re-grease the post.
> 
> @cjsb: Well, I always clamp my posts in my bike-stand, and never had any issues. However, I have rubber/plastic clamping jaws, which are clean and I do not use too much force to clamp.
> Also: Never use the bike-stand to forcingly keep the bike in a certain postion. Allow the bike-stand/bike to even out.
> ...


Thanks Sacki.

There was a few millimeters of play but swapping the pins seamed to help. It now feels like my wife's brand new revive (slight play for/aft) so I guess the pins were likely wore. Also noticed there was only 150 lbs of air in it so I went up to 250. Seams to be working like new again. I will replace the bushing next time in there.

I have put many hard miles on this post the past 1.5 years in wet, gritty terrain and so far no real problems. the insides looked much nicer/cleaner than I expected.


----------



## AlienRFX (Sep 27, 2006)

^^^That right there is why I really appreciate Sacki and BikeYoke. You don't automatically assume the customer is of the lowest common denominator and default to the solution that exposes you to the least amount of liability. You give real answers for the real world. Thank You.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

cjsb said:


> is it ok to clamp the post in a work stand to hold up the bike?


Yes in case, you meet the conditions:
1/ Clamping jaws are soft and clean.
2/ Both bike wheels stay on the ground.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

WOW - JUST WOW!

We´re nominated "Best Hardware" from Singletrack Magazine´s readers:
https://singletrackworld.com/2018/09/best-hardware-singletrack-reader-awards-2018-finalists/
Only accompanied by Rock Shox Lyrik and Shimano´s new, yet not available, XTR group. 
I can´t even express, how proud that makes us!

It´d be very cool, of you could support us with your vote here:
https://singletrackworld.com/reader-awards-2018-voting/


----------



## wheatgerm (Jan 30, 2006)

Awesome!! You deserve it!


----------



## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Congrats! I do love mine a looot!
Make a little nicer remote for it, something like the wolf tooth makes and it will be perfect.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


----------



## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

I created a login on Singletrack world just to vote for you. I was glad the vote form allowed me to skip entries - like many on MTBR, I'm American and some of that makes no sense at all if you're not in the UK. BikeYoke Revive was an easy pick.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Thanks a lot to all that support us! It means a lot to us!


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

The Revive got my vote on Singletrack (along with keeper of the peak for online service).


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

I voted too.


----------



## erikskon (Sep 24, 2008)

Hi, I have two Revives and absolutely love them. But even the best products can't compensate for idiots.... The seat post did not extend the last 3 cm so i checked the pressure. I had just done a lower service so i knew it wasn't that. It was only 150 psi and i gave it 250. So fare so good. But then i forgot to put on that little cap on the valve. Then when i used the reset function oil was spilling out. A lot of oil. Now it does not work. So how do i refill oil? And what oil?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

1. All relevant oil specs /type and volume) can be found in the documents above. The post will also work with other oild of similar viscosity. I am talking about actual viscosity, not WT numbers. This here is worth reading:
Suspension fluids | Peter Verdone Designs
https://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid
2. All relevant specs can also be found on our website. Just go to the arctile description of any REVIVE dropper post, then to "Maintenance" and/or "Documents".
There are also links to videos of lower tube service and full rebuild

However,
You can refill the oil through the valve stem after removing the valve core.
A small syringe will do the job to push the oil back in.
The problem is, that you don´t know, how much oil you´ve lost, or how much oil is still inside. Now the REVIVE is not very sensitive about absolutely correct oil volume. +/- 2cc are OK. Little too much oil make the post very firm toward full drop. Little too few oil can make the post not lock out properly or cause the post to need more frequent resets.

The other option is sending it back to our service center for a full service/rebuild


----------



## erikskon (Sep 24, 2008)

Hi, thank you for the information. After leaving the seat post for a while it seems to work ok, even though it list som oil. I will refill it anyway. From the spec i understand that i need a oil with ISO Viscosity Grade of 15 mm2/s. I will look for the exact Mobil oil that you use, but I'm afraid it is difficult to find in my town. But from reading it seems like Motorex 2,5W has the correct ISO Viscosity Grade, 15 mm2/s. I can buy that here.
In the spec it also says 5% with something "non stick.....". I have slickoleum/slick honey. Does that mean that i should mix inn Slick Honey with a mass that is 5% of the oil i will add? Or is it 5% of the volume? I don't quite understand what this grease does that the oil doesn't do...


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Our REVIVE will basically work with (m)any suspension oil(s). Please on´t nail me down on that, if you find an oil, that won´t do the job properly! We´ve tested dozens of them, and all worked, but in the end decided to go for the Mobil, because it simply performed best.
The R.S.P. No Stick Slip is NOT Slick Honey. Slick Honey is a grease. R.S.P. No stick Slip is an additive, that reduces stiction. Don´t ask me, what it is and how it works. I have never really been a fan of "fancy" additives, but R.S.P. No Stick Slip actually reduces stiction in a fork and shock and also our post. You don´t need to use it. However, we´ve found out, that, especially in cold temperatures, it helps the post function on the level that it does.
It would be 5% of the volume,but that wouldn´t even really matter, since densities are very close to each other.


----------



## foxpuppet (Jan 2, 2011)

I had an issue with mine today on the trail. I dropped it through a rocky section and the Lever felt loose then tight and the post kept dropping under weight and then popping back up when unseated and wouldn’t lock in anywhere.

Turns out the cable ferrule cover on the post end had slowly become fouled up and crept its way up and out of the recess it slips into. 

Went back to the car and had to take off the triggy so I could slide the cable back into the frame. Then removed the post from the frame and used a knife to slice off the dags and slide it back in. There’s no way I could have fixed it trail side. 

I should have taken pics while I had it out.
Looks like I’ll have to replace the housing at some stage as my fiddling with it seems to have put a heavy curve in it near the BB, however the actuation still seems as smooth as before.

This was on a Santa Cruz Hightower LT

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Losvar (Mar 21, 2016)

Anyone checked if you can lighten it up with carbon cradle and POP yokes?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

New review published on Sicklines:

Sicklines long term review - part two


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

One year old this month. Works perfectly. Zero issues in 175(ish) rides. Some of these were Tahoe or Downieville, hardcore 3-5 hr Expert level rides into the abyss. Congratulations Sacki. I am still wondering if there is a way to use any kind of spacer to change my 160mm to 150. I am shorter rider on a medium Canfield Brothers Riot, and the rear tire will buzz my saddle on big hits or G-outs. But its fine if I need to keep living with it. New saddle $60. Indesctructible Dropper Post, Priceless!


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Unfortunately, we do not have spacers to limit the travel. We´d love to do so, but we haven´t found a reliable, customer DIY solution.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Just stumbled over this on facebook and I was super excited and pleasently surprised, because I must admit, that I haven´t heard of OutdoorGearLab before:

OutdoorGearLab - Dropper Shootout
OutDoorGearLab - single review

It is even more interesting and exciting, because I believe, that is is the most independent and at the same most elaborate review of our REVIVE, that I have seen so far.
Also, apparently they buy all their reviewed products incognito for regular retail prices, as they explain here:
https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/about
https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/faq

Super stoked to see this outstanding outcome of this test!
Even if, I am a little bit confused by the weight score, as other, shorter, but at the same time heavier posts (e.g. e13), score higher than the REVIVE.


----------



## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

My Revive failed for the first time on my ride yesterday after 1 year and 3 months of use. For the last few weeks I've been suspecting that there wasn't enough air pressure in my post anymore, as the return speed seemed lazy. In the middle of my ride, I raised my post then sat down, and the saddle dropped all the way down. I tried again, and the same thing happened. Wtf?!! My Revive didn't feel "springy" when I sat on my saddle, rather it felt like I was pushing the trigger and dropping the saddle.

I glanced down at my 2-by trigger as I raised the saddle a couple more times, then released the trigger, and I could see that the nub on the end of the cable was not snapping down against the stop in the trigger. I thought my cable housing must be contaminated. I decided to stop and see if everything was okay with the connection on the bottom of the post. I pulled my Revive out of my seat tube, and I pulled on the housing so that the the black plastic ferrule came out of the stop, then I re-inserted the ferrule back into the stop. That solved the issue for the rest of my ride.

According to sacki's troubleshooting section:



> *My remote lever does not return properly*
> This may come from one of the two reasons:
> 
> 1....
> 2. Pressure is not high enough.


Today, I decided to add some air to my Revive, but the instructions in the manual aren't very clear. According to the manual, it looks like you have to disassemble every piece in the head of the post to add air. That isn't the case. The following is what I did.

*ADDING AIR TO YOUR POST:*

1) According to sacki, before adding any air you should do a revive, then wait a couple of minutes. Taking the saddle off and cleaning the parts takes a few minutes, so do the revive before taking your saddle off. Today was the first time I've ever used the revive feature. When removing the saddle clamps, note the orientation of each half of the saddle clamp. One piece has longer rails on one end than the other, and the end with the longer rails points to the rear; and if I remember correctly, the other half has a casting between the rails that looks a bit like an arrow, which points to the rear.

2) With the saddle clamps off, you can see the revive mechanism. If you turn the 4mm bolt clockwise, i.e. when you revive your post, it levers a thick bar against the cap on top of the air valve. And, if you turn the 4mm bolt counter clockwise, the thick bar will point straight up, giving you access to the air valve.

3) I used a q-tip to pry the cap off the air valve, which came off easily.

4) *Lightly* screw the air valve adapter (that came in the packaging with your trigger) onto the air valve. Then *lightly* screw your shock pump onto the air valve adapter.

5) Inflate to desired pressure. sacki says you need a high quality two step shock pump, but I read a review of shock pumps that says all shock pumps are nearly identical, and they are designed not to release air from whatever you are pumping up when you unscrew the pump.

6) I have a 7 year old shock pump that came with a Santa Cruz Blur LT2, and I pumped up my Revive to 210 psi.

7) Renistall air valve cap.

8) Turn the 4mm bolt clockwise so that the thick bar is touching the air valve cap.

9) Reinstall the seat.

I don't know if my post has 210 psi in it or not, but now my post is snapping back up with a sharp !bang! I had no issues with my Revive on my ride today. 

I also used grease instead of friction compound on my post, and I went "dry" everywhere else. We'll see how that goes.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Just a quick not on the comment above. 
You don´t have to take the reset lever apart to access the valve.
Only if you´ve lost your air adapter, you *CAN* disassemble the reset axle to access the valve *without* the air adapter and the shock pump directly.
I tried to make it as clear as possible in the manual, and I am sorry, if it is confusing. Here is a copy of the mentioned manual page, where I highlighted the bold "*OR*" with yellow marker:








Glad to hear, the post works fine, again.


----------



## Imho4ep (Jul 20, 2007)

sacki said:


> 1. All relevant oil specs /type and volume) can be found in the documents above. The post will also work with other oild of similar viscosity. I am talking about actual viscosity, not WT numbers. This here is worth reading:
> Suspension fluids | Peter Verdone Designs
> https://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid
> 2. All relevant specs can also be found on our website. Just go to the arctile description of any REVIVE dropper post, then to "Maintenance" and/or "Documents".
> ...


ok so i had the same problem, i released the air with a shock pump with the post extended and i still lost a bunch of oil. i removed the valve core out so i could replace the oil with some RockOil SVI 10 i have kicking around. i drained out the rest of the oil so i could get an accurate 41.5 ml back in there but going thru the valve is just not practical, it's just not wide enough even with a small 10ml syrnge. where is the video you are talking about for a full service?

thanks


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

The link to the video can be found here on our website in the article description of any REVIVE dropper post:







Here is the direct link:


----------



## Imho4ep (Jul 20, 2007)

sacki said:


> The link to the video can be found here on our website in the article description of any REVIVE dropper post:
> View attachment 1224093
> 
> Here is the direct link:


ok great, thanks


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

SACKI, I tried to order rebuild kit, but website is sold out (version w/ metal spring around wiper). I need to replace wiper/brass keys. Any timeframe?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Hey, Hoolie!
I am not sure what you mean, but both spare parts kits (lower tube service kit and o-ring kits for cartridge rebuils) are available in every size/type.
Does it really show out of stock wheny ou go to website?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

*Winter time is service time!*

*GREAT NEWS FOR ALL OUR AMERICAN REVIVE OWNERS*

Our US service partner, the guys from Dirtlabs, are offering a funky special deal on two different REVIVE service packages during the cold time of the year.


*Lower tube service, $35** - includes lower tube clean and regrease + lower bushing + pin + foam ring + wiper replacement (save $15)


*Full service, $60** - includes Lower tube service + hydraulic cartridge rebuild with complete seal replacement (save $30)
*Add $5* on the full service and you get a *Microvalve upgrade* for your 1st gen REVIVE

*offer is valid until 2019/01/31, shipping cost and taxes are not included, offer can not be combined with any other deals/offers

If you are interested, get in touch with the guys from Dirtlabs directly via e-mail [email protected] or by visiting their website to have your REVIVE prepared and ready for combat in the spring time.

Here is a direct link to their service form:
https://www.dirtlabs.com/get-service-individuals-form/

We wish you a great weekend!
Your BikeYoke and Dirtlabs team


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Yes its, web order is working. Damn, I just ordered. Trying to cancel my new order, since I saw new offer on last entry of $60 service at dirtlab.


----------



## CS645 (Dec 9, 2011)

Where can one find the serial number on the post? I want to check to be sure it's the 2.0.

This is the number on the box:


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

I did two lower-leg services today. Here are my notes:

Seatpost 1:

This is a 160, it was about time for service, although our conditions are extremely harsh in the summer often, lots of mud and muck in the early and late season, so that might account for any accelerated wear. It got a little junky right towards the end of the season.

There was some external corrosion on the external tube. This wasn't completely unexpected, the bike it's on doesn't have a seal at the internal routing hole, which is on the lower seat-tube. I'd imagine some moisture gets in here through the BB and this hole, although I usually try to keep a bead of silicone on it to minimize what can get in. This also goes back to the "fiber grip" carbon grease, but as I stated earlier, I haven't had good luck with trying to tighten dropper posts, they either slip or bind in the action, it's an imperfect system until the post is integrated into the frame (yuck) or incorporates some kind of collar with plastic spacers that we could stack to prevent slippage.

Anyway, this proceeded well, everything pretty much like clockwork according to the video. Only issue I noticed internally was the long skinny rod that is pushed by the external lever had some corrosion on it.

Seatpost 2:

This one was admittedly overdue for service. It's a 125mm. It has "felt" smooth the entire time and possibly lulled me into a false sense of security. This is a "generation one", it has directional pins. I did not notice directional pins on the one above. This one is significantly older than the 160. I don't ride this bike "as much" as the one up top, but this one I XC race, including several 100 mile races.

Externally though, this looked great. No corrosion issues on the outside.

Right off the batt, I ran into problems, after removing the first C-clip, the external tube would not budge. I had to use a piece of PVC pipe with a diameter bigger than the inner tube to pound it back. Once I did manage to break it free, I liberally applied grease on both sides, it wouldn't slide off right away and I had to work it a bit. Once I did, I also noticed that the foam ring was warped, about half was on one side of the o-ring and half on the other side, rather than below it. Getting the tube off and the pins out, I noticed some corrosion on the silver metal piece that is left of the black tube and where the brass pins reside:









2nd pic is poor, sorry, but you can see the white a little better:









Interestingly, that same silver rod that is pushed by the external lever was completely perfect on this dropper, so that part was strange.

Obviously, I should not let the post go so far and not service it, I take full responsibility for that. The other thing to think of is that just because it seems smooth does not mean everything is ok. This post appears to use some dissimilar metals that have galvanic potential. It appears the slots where the pins rest are not annodized, so that may be contributing to the corrosion issue. Rebuilt these both feel very nice. The lower service is pretty straightforward though and easy to do as far as steps. I guess I was expecting to find a lot of gummed up grease residue, which I did find some, but I wasn't expecting the internal corrosion.


----------



## holden (Jul 27, 2004)

sacki said:


> Unfortunately, we do not have spacers to limit the travel. We´d love to do so, but we haven´t found a reliable, customer DIY solution.


I did find this awhile back: Revive! | Peter Verdone Designs


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Might be interesting for you guys as well:

https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/squeezy.html
https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/willy.html


----------



## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

sacki said:


> Might be interesting for you guys as well:
> 
> https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/squeezy.html
> https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/willy.html


My bike needs a Willy. I just noticed a layer of dried mud in the seatpost clamp that it would've stopped.


----------



## philstone (Mar 14, 2011)

Got to look at my post in the morning. Its very slow/sticky returning. Checked the pressure today and it was down to 160psi so i pumped it back up to 250 but its still slow/sticky.
Hopefully its just the foam ring that needs cleaning, it was warranty returned to my UK disti in August as the bushing had started to breakdown - they asked if I’d been using Muc-off (which I was) as they’d seen that happen before. Since then I haven’t used it, but am slightly apprehensive as its exactly the same symptoms as before.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Did you already try to do a lower tube service and check how the post looks inside?


----------



## philstone (Mar 14, 2011)

Sorry yep - it was fine. Lower clean and degrease and it’s good as new again! Not as scary a process as I thought. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Great to hear!
Yeah, it is super simple and literally a 10-minute-job.

Also interesting, as the guys from Bikerumor are the first to publish:
https://bikerumor.com/2018/12/31/bi...opper-wrap-your-willy-flip-a-longer-triggy-x/


----------



## StumpyMike (Jan 13, 2019)

*Remote Set Screw?*

I just installed a post on my Stumpjumper and I was wondering does anyone know if the set screw for the remote is needed? I've emailed Bike Yoke and haven't gotten a response. I kinda think it's just an extra but the remote does have a spot for it. Lemme know, thanks


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Hi Mike,

Can you tell me, when you´ve sent the e-mail? I didn´t get one.
I am happy to reply to your e-mail.

Cheers
Sacki


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

The newer remote is designed to work with either end of the cable depending on what your particular post needs.

I once saw a friend struggle when his cable got sticky and the nipple popped out if the lever mid use and wouldn't fall back in. That issue is easily avoided by using the set screw to keep the nipple in place.


----------



## StumpyMike (Jan 13, 2019)

sacki said:


> Hi Mike,
> 
> Can you tell me, when you´ve sent the e-mail? I didn´t get one.
> I am happy to reply to your e-mail.
> ...


It was on the 9th sent to [email protected]
Does the remote need that set screw for the cable? It works fine without it


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Well, even though BTI is our distributor for the US, it makes them not being BikeYoke, right? I might miss replying to e-mails, but it doesn´t happen very often and I don´t remeber getting one from you. ;-)

Maybe this will answer your question:
https://reviews.mtbr.com/new-bikeyoke-smart-gadgets

You can cut the nipple and use a set screw instead for clamping the cable. This allows easier installation, as trimming the housing to length is easier to do.


----------



## coolatt (May 18, 2004)

Hi Sacki

I need a new set screw (asap) where the cable attaches to the bottom of the post. Is there a distribution channel in Canada for small parts like this? 
Could you maybe post the specs of this screw. M4 x ? x ?.

https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-cable-clamp.html

thanks


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

You can get in touch with 
wheelthingnorthvancouver - all walks of life all ride a bike
or
https://s4-suspension.myshopify.com/
Or you can look for a cable clamp for KS LEV Integra. They use the same exact part on their posts.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

coolatt said:


> I need a new set screw (asap) where the cable attaches to the bottom of the post. Is there a distribution channel in Canada for small parts like this?


seriously?!..
Any Home Supply Store or how it's called there where you live.. Where screws, nuts and other stuff..


----------



## coolatt (May 18, 2004)

sacki said:


> You can get in touch with
> wheelthingnorthvancouver - all walks of life all ride a bike
> or
> https://s4-suspension.myshopify.com/
> Or you can look for a cable clamp for KS LEV Integra. They use the same exact part on their posts.


Thank you


----------



## coolatt (May 18, 2004)

ka81ua said:


> seriously?!..
> Any Home Supply Store or how it's called there where you live.. Where screws, nuts and other stuff..


Incorrect


----------



## timsmcm (Dec 23, 2007)

I'm going to by a Revive post setup just because of this thread. Great info.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

coolatt said:


> Incorrect


what is incorrect?


----------



## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

Hi!

I’m moving a Revive from one bike to another, and will be swapping the lower tube unit from 30.9 o 31.6. I’ve watched the video and read the comments above.

Before I get started I want to triple check — I do NOT need to remove air from the post. CORRECT?

TIA


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Correct!


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Two recent reviews from NSMB and Spoke Magazine for all those who are interested:

https://nsmb.com/articles/bikeyoke-revive-dropper-post-reviewed/

https://spokemagazine.com/content/bike-yoke-revive-dropper-post-review


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

https://nsmb.com/articles/bikeyoke-revive-dropper-post/#c32030

HOW is it possible to use other-way orientation with kit lever? I see it's possible only with your new Triggy X but not with stock..


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Depends on when you bought the REVIVE. We did a running change and all posts built from middle 2018 already came with the new Triggy:
https://www.bikeyoke.de/de/triggy.html
Hence no more Triggy front and Triggy rear.
If you are interested in the new paddle, let me know by PM.


----------



## bvader (Sep 13, 2009)

How do you remove the upper bushing ? ... doing a lower service plus have a new wiper and upper bushing...BTW post in great shape this is my first service after over 2,200 miles

I have a little wear on the bottom outer of the post but I think it's just how it rubs in the frame everything else pretty awesome but I'd like to replace this upper bushing while I have it apart does not seem to want to come out and I'm not going to use any Sharp tools.

EDIT : Dug it out carefully... Then use the old one to help get the new one pressed in.

Overall pretty straightforward everything was in decent shape the one foam washer with bit dirty.

Hardest part for me was finding a thin 7 mm box end wrench all my good ones were too wide.

I am a medium wrench so that was first dropper service.

Feels really good afterwards.

I think partly in decent shape and because I wipe it down after every ride and it pull it out every so often and clean the seat tube and post outers.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

bvader said:


> Hardest part for me was finding a thin 7 mm box end wrench all my good ones were too wide.


Not the first tim to be mentioned here by the way..


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

bvader said:


> How do you remove the upper bushing ?


Is it about #38 Upper stanchion bushing?
https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-lower-tube-unit.html


----------



## bvader (Sep 13, 2009)

ka81ua said:


> Is it about #38 Upper stanchion bushing?
> https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-lower-tube-unit.html


Yup Part #38 upper station bushing I got it out but made me nervous is there a preferred technique?


----------



## derkommissar (Jan 23, 2019)

Sorry if this has been answered before. I just skimmed the thread. How do I rotate the cable foot? My a frame has a kink high up in the seat post. I found if rotate the post I can get it down further however the saddle rails are reversed


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

By hand, you just need to hold the lower part of the seatpost and rotate the actuator to the desired position.


----------



## derkommissar (Jan 23, 2019)

Aglo said:


> By hand, you just need to hold the lower part of the seatpost and rotate the actuator to the desired position.


Ok thanks. I tried that and it did move a little with some effort. This is a great feature to have on this post. For reference I'm fitting a 125 mm Revive on a Trek Fuel EX size 17.5


----------



## coolatt (May 18, 2004)

I initially set up my revive with a modified X9 front shifter I had been using with a previous post. I recently swapped over to the included bikeyoke trigger shifter. 

I suppose the X9 shifter has more leverage built in to it's throw, but the triggy feels way too stiff. Is this by design? I've never used any other trigger type shifter other that this one and X9. Are most seatpost shifters fairly stiff?


----------



## coolatt (May 18, 2004)

ka81ua said:


> what is incorrect?


That screw is not available at any store, at least not around me. I located a wholesaler that would sell me a bulk amount of a possible match but I never did get the actual thread pitch from saki so I can't even be sure wholesaler one is correct, that's why I asked for the specs.

In the end a lbs ordered me the KS Lev barrel and screw.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

It's about #7 set screw M4x0.7x5
Right?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

coolatt said:


> That screw is not available at any store, at least not around me. I located a wholesaler that would sell me a bulk amount of a possible match but I never did get the actual thread pitch from saki so I can't even be sure wholesaler one is correct, that's why I asked for the specs.
> 
> In the end a lbs ordered me the KS Lev barrel and screw.


I am sorry, I must have missed this question about the thread pitch. Did you ask me by mail or here in the forums?
The thread is a regular M4. M4 has a pitch of 0.7mm.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

What size (and thickness) wrenches are needed for the lower service?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> Depends on when you bought the REVIVE. We did a running change and all posts built from middle 2018 already came with the new Triggy:
> https://www.bikeyoke.de/de/triggy.html
> Hence no more Triggy front and Triggy rear.
> If you are interested in the new paddle, let me know by PM.


Dear Sacki, thank you very much!!! Realy, thank you!
Just got your new paddle from post.

Great support from you.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

WHALENARD said:


> What size (and thickness) wrenches are needed for the lower service?


Found it, 7mm & 13mm. This was in the written text portion of the video. I'm technologically challenged and my only source to the net is my crappy phone but the text portion is very informative. Sacki, maybe you could amend the video/txt to state that you don't need to release the air for a lower service? It seems oil escaping is problematic reading here and elsewhere.

I plan to do the lower service this weekend though my post doesn't have many miles and works well. Curious to what I find as

1- I never got the post to return with the authority I want despite using max psi. My friends post's return much faster.

2- on the 3rd ride or so the stanchtion ended up scored and felt gummy. It was a wet ride (nothing crazy) and clearly debris was able to enter the top seal. This was pretty disappointling.

I started lubing the stanchtion with tenacious oil or buzzy's every preride and this helped it's function.


----------



## coolatt (May 18, 2004)

sacki said:


> I am sorry, I must have missed this question about the thread pitch. Did you ask me by mail or here in the forums?
> The thread is a regular M4. M4 has a pitch of 0.7mm.


No worries, you suggested the LEV barrel and set-screw in your reply, which is what I did.

cheers


----------



## mykle (Dec 25, 2013)

Hi guys. 
Just installed my revive 185mm, but im having a bit trouble with the remote handle not returning. The result is that i have to manually pull back the handle to lock the height. Either the wire has too much friction or the spring that resets the valve is too weak. I got a kink in the wire during installation, could that be it? I have previously had a fox transfer in the same frame, so the routing radius isnt too small. 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

mykle said:


> Hi guys.
> Just installed my revive 185mm, but im having a bit trouble with the remote handle not returning. The result is that i have to manually pull back the handle to lock the height. Either the wire has too much friction or the spring that resets the valve is too weak. I got a kink in the wire during installation, could that be it? I have previously had a fox transfer in the same frame, so the routing radius isnt too small.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


I've used a transfer and the bikeyoke interchangeably (cable routing). It sounds like you have a significant cable kink/frayed cable, etc. Something got messed up IMO, rip out the cables and start over IMO. It's just as straightforward as any other dropper and operates similar to any other cable on a bike.


----------



## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

I've got an early Revive (without reset lever) that I finally performed a service on. The post was acting fine before the service, maybe a little slow, and I figured it was time.

The service went well, but I did not replace anything, even though I probably should have put in a new foam ring. The post worked great for a few weeks.

Now I'm having trouble pushing the post down the last inch or so. And I get a slow return that stops before reaching the top. I have to let go of the lever and push it again to get the final topout clunk that let's you know it's fully extended.

It does not appear to be cable related. Any thoughts?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Probably not cable related but it sounds very much like a clogged foam ring.


----------



## mykle (Dec 25, 2013)

Jayem said:


> I've used a transfer and the bikeyoke interchangeably (cable routing). It sounds like you have a significant cable kink/frayed cable, etc. Something got messed up IMO, rip out the cables and start over IMO. It's just as straightforward as any other dropper and operates similar to any other cable on a bike.


The issue was that i had used some winter oil in the cable to reduce the chance of corrosion. This oil ended up being a poor choice, as it got veeeery sticky after a couple of weeks. Changed the cable and all is good!

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## pryde1 (May 27, 2013)

Sacki:

I have a couple Revive posts and have performed regular service on them and they both work great but one of them has a definite creak (sounds like an old barn door) when pedaling while seated, or just sitting on the bike for that matter.

I know it is internal somehow as I have ensured all clamp bolts are torqued correct, clamps and saddle rails are clean, etc. 

When I do a lower service and clean/re-grease, the creak completely goes away for 1-2 rides then always returns. I have replaced all pins, IGUS bushing, etc with the service kits with no luck in getting rid of the noise. All internal parts look great with no wear. this post is on my "backup" bike which doesn't see that many miles.

It is definitely the one post as I swapped in my other one (older revive with many more miles) and it is quiet as a mouse on the same bike.

Any suggestions? Thanks.


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

mykle said:


> The issue was that i had used some winter oil in the cable to reduce the chance of corrosion. This oil ended up being a poor choice, as it got veeeery sticky after a couple of weeks. Changed the cable and all is good!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Good to hear!


----------



## horriefic (Jul 20, 2010)

Sacki,

Need your advise/help. My Bikeyoke Revive lever does not return fully. But only when I press the lever to allow the seat to go up. At the top (and almost at the top) when I release the lever the lever stays there (and hence the seat can be pushed down, so not good when on the trails). I thus need to use the back of my thumb to push the lever back out. It feels like there is no tension in the cable to pull the lever back out.

However, when I press the lever to push the seat down, there is sufficient tension in the cable to cause the lever to return fully without any issues.

Any ideas? I need to regrease the actuator and/or add air/psi?

FYI, I live in Malaysia which has a hot tropical climate i.e. no seasons at all with hardly any temperature changes.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

horriefic said:


> Sacki,
> 
> Need your advise/help. My Bikeyoke Revive lever does not return fully. But only when I press the lever to allow the seat to go up. At the top (and almost at the top) when I release the lever the lever stays there (and hence the seat can be pushed down, so not good when on the trails). I thus need to use the back of my thumb to push the lever back out. It feels like there is no tension in the cable to pull the lever back out.
> 
> ...


I've met a bug like you've just described. Problem was in the lever itself, the o-ring inside have been jammed. You could disassemble the lever and check. It's a minute job.


----------



## horriefic (Jul 20, 2010)

Thanks for the reply @accordnick. 

My lever is the Triggy lever. I don’t see any o-ring, not can it be diassembled.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

It sounds like big friction in the cable. Can be dirty, rusty (?) or even broken. Try to check, clean it or replace.


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

That seems friction in the cable has mentioned, it could be dirt, or maybe the hose is kinked.


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

horriefic said:


> Thanks for the reply @accordnick.
> 
> My lever is the Triggy lever. I don't see any o-ring, not can it be diassembled.


Mine too. ) It can be easily disassembled. One bolt at the lever axle, 5mm Allen key. O-ring is between the lever and a base. Not visible from outside.

Check the cable before, it also may be a cause.


----------



## Big AC (Oct 12, 2012)

Sacki,

Your original post in this thread (from over a year ago) states "We are currently not planning on dropper posts with more than 185mm drop". Is this still correct? Like a lot tall riders I'm hoping that Bikeyoke are reconsidering this position. 

The 9point8 has reliability concerns, and the OneUp might not work on certain bikes. For me, and I'm sure for a number of other riders, a 200mm+ Revive would be the "no brainer" answer in this travel category.

Thanks for any information you can provide.


----------



## mykle (Dec 25, 2013)

220mm would be great

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

219,99


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

For the 30.9 and 31.6 diameters, we are currently not planning on any longer lenghts than 185. The reason is, that longer lenghts will come with several problems to solve, which we could not find a solution for, yet:

1. Structurally (strength-wise), longer lenghts get much more critical. 
However, I think this is a manageable problem. Yet, for longevity, it would require longer bushing overlap, and compared to a 185mm, a 220 this would not just add twice the longer travel to the total lenght, which would be an additional of 2x (220-185) = 70mm. No, it would also require a bit more bushign overlap.
485mm (current 185)
+ 70mm (for the extra 35mm travel)
+ 10~15mm (for the extra bushing overlap)
--------------------------------------------------
makes an estimated total length of 565~570 for a 220mm REVIVE.

2. Structurally (stiffness-wise), longer lengths will cause more bend of the upper tube, which will make the upper tube be more prone to touch and scratch the inside of the lower tube. The reason is, that the load on the upper tube will cause the tube to bend not only on the exposed part, but also between the bushings inside the lower tube. There is only a very very little tiny gap between those two tubes and from #1 we know, that we will also need to increase the bushing overlap to increase strength. #1 and #2 are counter-productive.

Especially #2 is a tough one, as there is is bascially no room the keep tubes clear at all times in series production, considering all insertion lengths, seat tubes angles and frame designs. I am really curious, how other 200mm+ droppers are holding up over time against my concerns.

34.9 posts are a totally different story, and I am sure, we will see many more frame makers using this size in the future. That´s what I already predicted, before we came out with the REVIVE Max one and a half year ago. Major companies, that have not been doing 34.9 frames in the past approached us regarding cooperation.


----------



## Verbl Kint (Feb 14, 2013)

Thank you very much for posting all this info, sacki! My Revive is due to arrive very soon and I am very excited to try it out.


----------



## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

BmoreKen said:


> Hi!
> 
> I'm moving a Revive from one bike to another, and will be swapping the lower tube unit from 30.9 o 31.6. I've watched the video and read the comments above.
> 
> ...


Lower tube unit swap was easy. Hardest part was finding a thin wrench, ordered on Amazon. Thanks!


----------



## toodles (Oct 14, 2004)

BmoreKen said:


> Hi!
> 
> I'm moving a Revive from one bike to another, and will be swapping the lower tube unit from 30.9 o 31.6. I've watched the video and read the comments above.
> 
> ...


I'm looking at a new frame and will need to do the same but in reverse (31.6 -> 30.9). Is it just the tube I need to change? Or are there other parts required?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Just the tube with the pre-installed wiper and bushing.


----------



## cowdog (Apr 14, 2004)

My new Ibis Ripley 4 came with a bikeyoke dropper. It's awesome so far. I've been learning about it so I am prepared. I didn't get the air tool with the bike (brand new). Where can I get one? Should I have gotten one with the bike? Thanks!



sacki said:


> Just a quick not on the comment above.
> You don´t have to take the reset lever apart to access the valve.
> Only if you´ve lost your air adapter, you *CAN* disassemble the reset axle to access the valve *without* the air adapter and the shock pump directly.
> I tried to make it as clear as possible in the manual, and I am sorry, if it is confusing. Here is a copy of the mentioned manual page, where I highlighted the bold "*OR*" with yellow marker:
> ...


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

We do deliver our post to all of our OEM customer with the air adapter. I am not sure, if they give it away with the complete bike, though. We do not dictate this.
It´d be a waste to throw it away, tho, as it is a really expensive piece of CNC work.
Maybe you can check with your IBIS dealer?
If you can´t get it, you can buy it directly in our webshop under seatpost spares.


----------



## cowdog (Apr 14, 2004)

Thank you sacki. I will check in with the shop where I bought the bike. And, I don't plan on throwing away the post, that's for sure. That's the opposite of my core approach for anything.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Lol! Nono, I was referring to the air adapter! 
I meant it'd would be a shame, if they threw away the air adapter, instead of giving it with the complete bike. Maybe they give it to their dealers, or they just forgot to put it in the bike package.
If you threw away the post just because of a missing air tool, that´d be really disturbing. ;-)


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Girthy....stoked....installing now


----------



## cowdog (Apr 14, 2004)

sacki said:


> Lol! Nono, I was referring to the air adapter!
> I meant it'd would be a shame, if they threw away the air adapter, instead of giving it with the complete bike. Maybe they give it to their dealers, or they just forgot to put it in the bike package.
> If you threw away the post just because of a missing air tool, that´d be really disturbing. ;-)


Haha. Got it. I like the dropper!


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Blown away. Ease of installation, smoothness, quality, holy crap. So happy to have an actual 34.9mm post in the frame designed for it, looks so much better and action is at least 150% better than the POS Trans-X dropper that came on it with a shin down to 30.9. No wiggle at the head, no flex I can feel, wow just wow. So glad I spent the extra $100 and got this one.


----------



## gasmanxj (Sep 29, 2014)

Sacki - are there instructions somewhere for doing a lower service on the Divine? Not seeing on the website. Mine is a bit sticky going down so figure just needs a clean and lube. Thanks!


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

I´ve already sent you PM. We are preparing a video for the DIVINE SL lower tube service right now, but I´ve sent you a link to a quick 'n' dirty made video for the meantime.

Cheers
Sacki


----------



## climbanymtn (Mar 9, 2018)

I just got a 185mm Revive and attempting to do the install. The housing that came with the seatpost is way too short for my Santa Cruz Hightower LT XXL. When my bars are at 90deg and housing runs through frame, it does not extend beyond the end of the seat tube. The housing included is 5ft in length. My bike probably needs at least 6ft length. What is the recommended housing alternative? I assume this needs 5mm housing so something like Shimano SP51 shift housing would work?


----------



## gasmanxj (Sep 29, 2014)

sacki said:


> I´ve already sent you PM. We are preparing a video for the DIVINE SL lower tube service right now, but I´ve sent you a link to a quick 'n' dirty made video for the meantime.
> 
> Cheers
> Sacki


Got it, thanks Sacki! Looks super simple.


----------



## climbanymtn (Mar 9, 2018)

*Update*



climbanymtn said:


> I just got a 185mm Revive and attempting to do the install. The housing that came with the seatpost is way too short for my Santa Cruz Hightower LT XXL. When my bars are at 90deg and housing runs through frame, it does not extend beyond the end of the seat tube. The housing included is 5ft in length. My bike probably needs at least 6ft length. What is the recommended housing alternative? I assume this needs 5mm housing so something like Shimano SP51 shift housing would work?


Just an update, I was able to successfully install the seatpost without needing to replace the housing. Turns out that with the seatpost installed in the seat tube, I had plenty of extra housing length remaining due to the depth of insertion. I am still curious what the housing spec is though as I will probably replace with Shimano housing at some point during a maintenance interval.


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

I installed mine with Shimano OT-SP41 housing and Shimano Optislick Shifter Cable, but most probably you will be fine with any combination of a housing and a 1.2mm shifter steel cable.


----------



## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

I broke the end of the little revive key inside the thingy. Any tips n how to remove?










Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

BmoreKen said:


> I broke the end of the little revive key inside the thingy. Any tips n how to remove?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You can see about 1mm nubbin is gone










Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## distortion10 (Mar 5, 2011)

Dental picks wiggling it back and forth. Or I’d try to epoxy glue the broke end on and pull it out. 

Lastly I’d try drilling a small hole in the middle of the nub and then thread a screw in to it. 

Thanks for sharing this issue. Love my revive but I’ll be using a normal Allen from now on. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

That same part broke on mine, you should be able to just lean the bike over on it's side and it should fall out. Maybe give the side of the seat a few whacks. If not, you can drill it out with a 1/16 drill bit and just thread machine screw into it lightly to pull it out.


----------



## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

How often do people have to use the revive feature on theirs? I'm finding that I have to do that to mine every few riding hours, maybe 2-3.


----------



## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

Been on mine close to 6 months and only had to use it once so far

Sent from my SM-J730G using Tapatalk


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

minimusprime said:


> How often do people have to use the revive feature on theirs? I'm finding that I have to do that to mine every few riding hours, maybe 2-3.


It is only necessary if I turn my bicycle upside down for any length of time or transport it on it's side in a vehicle. I have the older versions without the membrane that supposedly prevents this. Otherwise, it stays and doesn't sag while riding. If it's actually sagging while riding, you definitely have a problem.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

minimusprime said:


> How often do people have to use the revive feature on theirs? I'm finding that I have to do that to mine every few riding hours, maybe 2-3.


I've been using the seatpost for over a year, and I've never had to revive it, even if I put my bike upside down (with the post fully extended, of course).


----------



## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

Hello guys,
I purchased a used Revive on Pinkbike and got to installing it last night. It works well but there is a hiccup which I'm not sure if it's normal. The problem I'm having is that the post does not drop if I sit too far back on the saddle. Basically if there is some backwards force on the post, it won't drop. Therefore I need to slide my ass slightly forward such that the downwards pressure is directly over the extension shaft. I find this slightly annoying and was wondering if it's normal or how it can be fixed. I purchased this post mainly to be able to rebuild it myself but hopefully it's not my next step!

Thanks!


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

Moving down the line of the post rather than vertically down is best practice for all dropper posts.


----------



## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

Yeah sure it puts less stress but I don't remember ever seeing one that doesn't move at all when you are simply seated on the saddle...


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

It's possible that the bushing and/or the lower bushing to be worn out, try to wiggle the seatpost and check for excessive play.
Or it could be just in need of a lower service, thing that you should have done the moment you got it just to check it's condition .


----------



## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

It doesn't wiggle at all and I didn't have time and/or parts for a rebuild right now. I didn't expect that to be honest and couldn't detect it before having it all installed. Is this a common "problem"?


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

You don't need new parts if it doesn't have play, just disassemble the lower and do a service, probably just need new grease.
You have links for the vids on how to do a lower service in the first post of this thread, don't know if *sacky* already updated the vid, but you don't even need to remove the air on the new procedure.


----------



## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

Thanks Aglo! I understand from your answers that it’s not uncommon. I have a trip this weekend but I’ll take the time to overhaul it when I get back.


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Actually, you're the first I recall having the seatpost not budging at full extension .
But I may be vitamin B12 deficient, so don't take my word for it. I suggested doing a lower service because last year doing 4 to 5 rides per week during the summer I noticed some stiction at full extension if I hadn't lowered the seatpost for some time during a ride, doing a lower service resolved the small amount of stiction I had.
You could also clean/wash the stanchion and apply a very small dab of *r.s.p. Slick Kick* or *Slick Honey* with your finger and see if it helps.
But I think you doing a lower service is the best option because you don't know when the previous owner did it and it may just be in need of one.


----------



## euro-trash (Feb 9, 2008)

Does anyone know if the Revive is compatible with the new XTR dropper lever? I'd like to clean-up my bars a bit. I can't tell if the lever can accept a cable head, and if it has enough cable pull. 
Thanks!


----------



## Spiltover06 (Jan 29, 2018)

Hi there i was reading one of the earlier posts from you about revive 125/160 and no spacers to limit travel. Is this still true? Is the 125 the max insertion then 160 is the travel? I could of sworn i saw spacers that could convert 160 to 125. Thanks.


----------



## The Messiah (Apr 18, 2019)

Spiltover06 said:


> Hi there i was reading one of the earlier posts from you about revive 125/160 and no spacers to limit travel. Is this still true? Is the 125 the max insertion then 160 is the travel? I could of sworn i saw spacers that could convert 160 to 125. Thanks.


Someone with their whole portfolio on the internet said they could limit the posts travel to any length they wanted but Sacki advised very much against it.


----------



## Spiltover06 (Jan 29, 2018)

Ok thanks can you explain what the 125 and 160 numbers actually mean?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Spiltover06 said:


> ... Is the 125 the max insertion then 160 is the travel?... Thanks.


Sorry, but I really do not understand what you are saying. 
About the spacers: We do not have spacers to reduce the travel.
I know there are customers, who did their own spacers it, and I have not yet heard about any issues. It is just that we don't offer spacers and this is why, you should know, what you are doing, as your warranty will be void, if you mess around with modifications.


----------



## Spiltover06 (Jan 29, 2018)

Ok I think I found my error. The bike states 125/160 which depends on bike size.
RE: 
BIKEYOKE REVIVE 125/160MM
My interpretation was the post is adjustable 160 to 125 mm.
Thanks for the response.


----------



## climbanymtn (Mar 9, 2018)

I have run into a compatibility issue with the 185mm Revive on a Santa Cruz Hightower LT in XXL size. When adjusting the saddle to the desired angle, there is absolutely no way to avoid the rear clamp bolt from rubbing against the saddle clamp. I read Sacki's install notes on this thread about pushing the clamp backward while tightening the bolts evenly, but that did not overcome the issue in my case. Perhaps due to my height (6'5" and 36" inseam) I need to have the post pretty high for pedaling, thus requiring a steeper seat angle than the post was designed for. 

In comparing the Revive to a Fox Transfer on my other Santa Cruz bike and the Reverb I was replacing on my HTLT, it appears the Revive design does not account for slack bikes and the taller rider/frame combo, as these other posts have plenty of clearance between the rear saddle bolt and the seatpost/saddle clamp area.

I am disappointed as I really wanted to use the Revive due to the self-bleed feature. I'm hoping Sacki sees this and has another solution.


----------



## foxpuppet (Jan 2, 2011)

climbanymtn said:


> I have run into a compatibility issue with the 185mm Revive on a Santa Cruz Hightower LT in XXL size. When adjusting the saddle to the desired angle, there is absolutely no way to avoid the rear clamp bolt from rubbing against the saddle clamp. I read Sacki's install notes on this thread about pushing the clamp backward while tightening the bolts evenly, but that did not overcome the issue in my case. Perhaps due to my height (6'5" and 36" inseam) I need to have the post pretty high for pedaling, thus requiring a steeper seat angle than the post was designed for.
> 
> In comparing the Revive to a Fox Transfer on my other Santa Cruz bike and the Reverb I was replacing on my HTLT, it appears the Revive design does not account for slack bikes and the taller rider/frame combo, as these other posts have plenty of clearance between the rear saddle bolt and the seatpost/saddle clamp area.
> 
> I am disappointed as I really wanted to use the Revive due to the self-bleed feature. I'm hoping Sacki sees this and has another solution.


Posting a photo might help us understand this better

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## climbanymtn (Mar 9, 2018)

I've removed the saddle, but this is where the contact is occurring (red marks on exploded view). I did one ride with the post and had no idea the bolt was in contact with the clamp, but I heard a lot of creaking. Upon close inspection, I saw there was a divot etched into the lower clamp from where the bolt had been rubbing. I then tried to reposition the bolt and clamp per Sacki's notes to see if could get the bolt to not rub against the clamp, but I couldn't get it to work. 






:


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

so what's a problem?
Remove some amoun of clamp with rasp and live on.


----------



## timmyt43 (Jun 8, 2007)

Hi Sacki,

I'm a very satisfied BikeYoke Revive owner (160/31.6) of 9 months. My LBS has performed the 100 hour service on schedule. 

I'm currently experiencing some rotational play in the inner tube, where the saddle swivels a couple of degrees even though there is no sag or compression. Reviving has no effect. 

I was wondering if you can tell from this description whether another 100 hour service would eliminate the rotation or if it requires something more extensive. (I don't see this issue covered in the troubleshooting table so I'm guessing it's not very common.) My hope is to purchase whatever replacement components I need before I take the post to my mechanic in order to minimize turnaround time. 

Please let me know if you need any more info. Thanks!


----------



## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

If I’m getting a little greasy residue at the top of my post does it mean my Revive is due for a service?


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Nat said:


> If I'm getting a little greasy residue at the top of my post does it mean my Revive is due for a service?


I sure hope not, because I have had mine for 2 weeks and I have to wipe the residue off under the seat before every ride!!


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

timmyt43 said:


> Hi Sacki,
> 
> I'm a very satisfied BikeYoke Revive owner (160/31.6) of 9 months. My LBS has performed the 100 hour service on schedule.
> 
> ...


As with ALL dropper posts, it will develop a little play, the bushings are brass and are intended to wear. How much? Maybe Sacki will give a description, to me, it's more of a feel thing. The first thing to do would be to use new bushings. Bikeyoke also makes some slightly oversized bushings in the case of the rails wearing down a bit.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

euro-trash said:


> Does anyone know if the Revive is compatible with the new XTR dropper lever? I'd like to clean-up my bars a bit. I can't tell if the lever can accept a cable head, and if it has enough cable pull.
> Thanks!


It does work with the REVIVE, but you might have to be careful with cable tension and air pressure. We´ve had a magazine testing a post with this remote and the maximum speed was slightly smaller than with the original remote.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

PissedOffCil said:


> It doesn't wiggle at all and I didn't have time and/or parts for a rebuild right now. I didn't expect that to be honest and couldn't detect it before having it all installed. Is this a common "problem"?


Not a "common" problem and I suggest to have a lower tube service performend.
HOWEVER: Even though the post should drop with the force not going in-line with the seattube, you should not just sit plain on the back of your saddle and push down. Always push in-line with the seattube and push as centered on the saddle, as you can. It does not require any additional time, neither is it unconfortable. It is just that you need to get used to it. Your post will thank you with less wear. This applies to any dropper post of any make.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

timmyt43 said:


> Hi Sacki,
> 
> I'm a very satisfied BikeYoke Revive owner (160/31.6) of 9 months. My LBS has performed the 100 hour service on schedule.
> 
> ...


If the post has rotational play, it may be time to replace the pins, which guide the upper tube. 
Another option is: Exchanging the pins in their seats. Means, keeping the original pins but randomly putting them in a different slot. This can also reduce rotational play.
P.S.: We do not use different pin sizes. We have a different way of reducing play.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> I sure hope not, because I have had mine for 2 weeks and I have to wipe the residue off under the seat before every ride!!


It is very likely just excess grease from assembly, whihc exits through the wiper. It should go away after a few more rides. In case the post should not work as expected anymore, then please get in touch with me/us though e-mail.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

sacki said:


> P.S.: We do not use different pin sizes. We have a different way of reducing play.


... who did lower tube service himself, couldn't unnoticed that.


----------



## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

sacki said:


> It is very likely just excess grease from assembly, whihc exits through the wiper. It should go away after a few more rides. In case the post should not work as expected anymore, then please get in touch with me/us though e-mail.


My post is upwards of a year old and I didn't notice any grease accumulation until just recently. It still functions as well as it has since day one though. What do you think? Is the wiper worn out maybe?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Could be. It is hard to say without having the post in my hands. However, if it is only grease. I would not worry. 
This can come from a fresh service or from production when a little too much grease was used.
If you didn´t do a service recently and the post just starts "greasing" now, then it might be due to a worn wiper or worn bushings. A front/back wiggling post does not seal as well on the wiper area, as a tighter one), as the stanchion can move relatively to the wiper.
The wipers usually seal very well from outside to inside, but they allow a little lubrication toget out to keep the stanchion lubed. 
Warm weather also lets grease "melt" and liquifies it so it can exit through the wiper more easily.
You can check with a lower tube service, if the wiper allowed too much dirt to get in the post. If there is no extrardinary amount of dirt in the post, then the wiper still seems to work properly and keep dirt outside.


----------



## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

Thank you very much sacki.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

sacki said:


> It is very likely just excess grease from assembly, whihc exits through the wiper. It should go away after a few more rides. In case the post should not work as expected anymore, then please get in touch with me/us though e-mail.


No worries! Best, most solid, smoothest post I have ever used. I love it. Thanks for making it in 34.9


----------



## jbsmith (Aug 3, 2008)

I'm going to do a lower service on my revive - I purchased a v2 service kit (my dust wiper has the spring)...but also in the kit is a grey bushing of some sort, it's like a cup to some extent where it's flat on one side with a smaller (like the size of your pinkie finger) hole in it and then the other side is wide open and deep maybe 1/4" deep. 

Where does this go as I don't see it in the exploded diagrams on bikeyoke.de. Its a Revive 160.


----------



## jbsmith (Aug 3, 2008)

jbsmith said:


> I'm going to do a lower service on my revive - I purchased a v2 service kit (my dust wiper has the spring)...but also in the kit is a grey bushing of some sort, it's like a cup to some extent where it's flat on one side with a smaller (like the size of your pinkie finger) hole in it and then the other side is wide open and deep maybe 1/4" deep.
> 
> Where does this go as I don't see it in the exploded diagrams on bikeyoke.de. Its a Revive 160.


Found it #57 on the diagram...just looks different in the diagram than in real life.


----------



## mykle (Dec 25, 2013)

Seems like my remote doesnt work properly if i have the seatpost clamped in a specific position. It wont return, so i cant put any weight on the seat if i have pushed the remote. If i just move the seatpost a centimeter it works fine. 


Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## Vonplatz (Sep 28, 2011)

Being an idiot I allowed alot of oil out of the post by not putting the aircap back onto the valve and then actuating the revive function. 

I have seen that to refill it indeed to let all the air out (slowly, using a shock pump) and put some oil back in.

Can I mix another type of oil with the one that's in there from the factory? Can I use reverb hydraulic fluid? (It's all I've got)

If not, what could I use? I've seen hydraulic oil on sale but only in 5ltr format and I obviously don't need that much. Where could get hold of a few ml? Motorbike garages?

Thanks


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

Installed one today and everything works great. Except the 4mm lever they include broke off in the post the first time I tried to use it. I think a steel allen wrench is a safer bet.


----------



## nsd20463 (Jan 8, 2018)

The little 4mm lever is soft metal rotating against a stiff spring. I started to bend my lever too, but realized it in time, and figured out my problem was it wasn't inserted all the way. There's a rubber ring which retains the lever, and I had to give it a hard wack to get it to seat. After that it's been strong enough.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

You can basically use any suspension oil, but it may result in different speeds and or ease in reset function. It is also normally OK to mix different suspension oils, if you just want to fill up lost oil.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

nsd20463 is right. We have seen quite a couple of reset lever shear of at the tip, on the o-ring groove. This happens, if you don´t insert the key all the way, which you should.
We have only seen less than a handful of levers shear off at the root of the hex key, because the material is pretty strong, actually. It might have happened when customers engaged the reset function, while the post was in temperature-lock mode (too much pressure inside the inner chamber due to temperature difference). In this case you should use a 4mm L-key to engage the reset function for once.


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

probably know the answer to this, but throwing it out. Any way to reduce the total height of the Revive? I have a 31.6 125mm post and just bought a new bike. it's about 5mm too high for me with post bottomed out. The seat is already a low rail seat and hoping there is a solution better than tying a string around it to keep it from fully extending.


----------



## Verbl Kint (Feb 14, 2013)

Just bought a new set of XTR m9120 brakes, which uses the new iSpec EV clamp. Is there a solution at the moment to attach a Triggy to it?

Sent using Tapatalk


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

maybe they will make something in near future https://problemsolversbike.com/products/brakes/mismatch_-_30797


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

Verbl Kint said:


> Just bought a new set of XTR m9120 brakes, which uses the new iSpec EV clamp. Is there a solution at the moment to attach a Triggy to it?
> 
> Sent using Tapatalk


Not that I'm aware of, BikeYoke may be working on one. I have the WolfTooth iSpec EV adapter for my Wolftooth lever I am using with my Revive, it might be adaptable with the wider adjustment range of EV, but then it may be more trouble and risk than it's worth, too.


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

Mark16q said:


> probably know the answer to this, but throwing it out. Any way to reduce the total height of the Revive? I have a 31.6 125mm post and just bought a new bike. it's about 5mm too high for me with post bottomed out. The seat is already a low rail seat and hoping there is a solution better than tying a string around it to keep it from fully extending.


In theory, yes, if you are handy and don't mind taking it apart. Peter Verdone mentions it in this post on his blog. I originally bought mine for a very tight fitment that never ended up happening and it fits great on the bike it ended up on, but I had that in mind as a backup plan if I needed a few mm.


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

Thank you Velodonata,

I haven't cracked mine open yet, so not sure exactly of where he's referring to on putting the spacer and exactly how it would stay in place when the post is dropped. Might make more sense once in there. It would be great if bikeyoke sold spacing shims like oneup does. hint hint....



Velodonata said:


> In theory, yes, if you are handy and don't mind taking it apart. Peter Verdone mentions it in this post on his blog. I originally bought mine for a very tight fitment that never ended up happening and it fits great on the bike it ended up on, but I had that in mind as a backup plan if I needed a few mm.


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

Mark16q said:


> Thank you Velodonata,
> 
> I haven't cracked mine open yet, so not sure exactly of where he's referring to on putting the spacer and exactly how it would stay in place when the post is dropped. Might make more sense once in there. It would be great if bikeyoke sold spacing shims like oneup does. hint hint....


I haven't needed to get inside mine yet either. From looking at the service and promotional videos, it would simply be a simple spacer tube of the correct dimensions, over one of the internal tubes to shorten range of motion. It actually appears to be a very simple mod, other than having to take it all the way down to put it in there. But for a tricky fit, I would totally do it, the post is worth the extra time and effort.


----------



## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

My beloved Revive finally started doing what all droppers do: misbehave.

Early in a 4 hour ride yesterday, the return speed began to slow. I stopped and did a "revive", hoping that would resolve the issue. But the behavior persisted and worsened. Within an hour, the remote wouldn't do anything: wouldn't allow the post to drop if extended, and wouldn't extend the post if dropped. The symptoms suggested that the cable tension on the remote may be at fault, so I tightened it up a bit w/ the barrel adjuster to see if that helped, but it did nothing. When I got back to my van, I inspected the remote, cable, actuation linkage at bottom of post, etc. Summary:

1) when extended, the post isn't soft; its firm at full extension. 
2) "revive" bolt still works to drop or raise the post, no problem.
3) actuation mechanism is clean and greased and appears to be moving freely/normally; however, moving it has no consequence (won't allow the upper to drop or extend).
4) problem has nothing to do with the remote, or cable tension, or clamp torque because I am reproducing the problem with the post removed from frame and directly/manually moving the actuation linkage.

Basically, the post is "stuck up" if I do a revive/reset and allow the post to extend. Or it is "stuck down" if I do a revive/reset and push the stanchion down into the lower tube. 

I'm currently travelling without proper tools, so can't check the foam ring because I can't remove the circlip. But the bottom of my post is very clean; it literally looks new, and shows no sign of grease or dirt or even moisture. The three vent holes are clean and exposed. So I'm a little skeptical that a simple cleaning of the foam ring will resolve this severe problem.

Suggestions?


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

InertiaMan said:


> My beloved Revive finally started doing what all droppers do: misbehave.


Curious, how old and how long since last service?


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Where are you traveling? State/town?


----------



## mykle (Dec 25, 2013)

I noticed my revive didnt want to extend fully once in a while and checked the pressure. Its 5 months old and only had 150 psi now. Pumped it back up to 250 psi and it works great again... but for how long? Anyone else experience leaks so soon?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

mykle said:


> I noticed my revive didnt want to extend fully once in a while and checked the pressure. Its 5 months old and only had 150 psi now. Pumped it back up to 250 psi and it works great again... but for how long? Anyone else experience leaks so soon?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


No. I notice that my 160 returns slower than my 125, both reading 200psi. I've always meant to add a few PSI to the 160, but it has always worked and is super smooth, so I never get around to it. I ride these hard and they've withstood several seasons. This last winter, I rebuilt both (service) and they are doing excellent. No hesitation taking them on nasty muddy wet 40-50 mile rides or the 100 miler I'll do this month. I know this doesn't help you, but these have held pressure for years just fine. I do not believe there is any widespread issue with holding air.


----------



## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

Jayem said:


> Curious, how old and how long since last service?


I have about a year of riding on it. Added a service kit to recent order from bike-components.de but haven't done it yet. FWIW, I don't see how the periodic service of the main wiper and keys would have any affect on my issue. The problem I'm facing is with the hydraulics/inner tube, not with the "outer" mechanical interface between stanchion and lower tube.


----------



## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

hoolie said:


> Where are you traveling? State/town?


Central Oregon.


----------



## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

I sent my post in for service at Dirtlabs after a quick conversation with them confirmed this isn't a problem I can easily solve on the road. If I was at home w/ normal set of tools, I'd be happy to undertake a full disassembly and rebuild with new seals, but the seal kit seems pretty much unavailable in the USA.

My problem appears to be a stuck-down lockout valve. The actuator rod is moving fine against the cam at the bottom of post, but the valve isn't opening. Which raises the obvious question of how the lockout valve could be closed and still allow the rod to move?? Conceptually I suppose it could also be stuck open and completely plugged?? Don't know how that would occur, but it would explain the still-moving actuator rod.


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

Velodonata said:


> I haven't needed to get inside mine yet either. From looking at the service and promotional videos, it would simply be a simple spacer tube of the correct dimensions, over one of the internal tubes to shorten range of motion. It actually appears to be a very simple mod, other than having to take it all the way down to put it in there. But for a tricky fit, I would totally do it, the post is worth the extra time and effort.


Turns out post is a bit too tall on my new orbea, but finding a 10.75 od 8.05 Id washer is no simple task . It's a small id for a 10mm washer. Any sources known? Tia mark


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

Mark16q said:


> Turns out post is a bit too tall on my new orbea, but finding a 10.75 od 8.05 Id washer is no simple task . It's a small id for a 10mm washer. Any sources known? Tia mark


How much do you need to drop it? I would rather use a tube than washers. There is usually a lot of scrap cuts of tubing available on eBay in various metals for cheap, I would probably go with aluminum or Ti. Just search for 10mm OD, it's a relatively common size and in 1mm wall that makes for pretty close to what you need. You may need to fine tune the size, assuming you don't have a lathe just chucking the tube into a drill and using a Dremel or even some sandpaper wrapped on a stick you could open up the ID a bit if needed. I don't think the OD would be critical as long as it wasn't too big, but I haven't had my Revive apart yet to get a feel for the best approach. You could always put slightly bigger OD washers at the ends if it seems like it needs the support.


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

Actually was looking for spacers or tubing don't know why I said washers. But good points about slightly smaller od being ok. Was hoping for nylon but think al or ti would be fine too. Hate to open it up without spacer in hand but think it'll take some finessing once apart.


Velodonata said:


> How much do you need to drop it? I would rather use a tube than washers. There is usually a lot of scrap cuts of tubing available on eBay in various metals for cheap, I would probably go with aluminum or Ti. Just search for 10mm OD, it's a relatively common size and in 1mm wall that makes for pretty close to what you need. You may need to fine tune the size, assuming you don't have a lathe just chucking the tube into a drill and using a Dremel or even some sandpaper wrapped on a stick you could open up the ID a bit if needed. I don't think the OD would be critical as long as it wasn't too big, but I haven't had my Revive apart yet to get a feel for the best approach. You could always put slightly bigger OD washers at the ends if it seems like it needs the support.


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

Mark16q said:


> Actually was looking for spacers or tubing don't know why I said washers. But good points about slightly smaller od being ok. Was hoping for nylon but think al or ti would be fine too. Hate to open it up without spacer in hand but think it'll take some finessing once apart.


I thought about nylon or delrin too, but I'm not sure it would hold up. Using it for washers on the ends might be nice to isolate the metal spacer from thumping on the internals at top-out. Or a slight inside bevel and an O-ring at each end.


----------



## sarlej (Jul 11, 2019)

I have Revive 160 for two weeks and i notice there is some rotational play (im not sure if there was some play before). Not between upper and lower tube, but between upper tube and saddle clamp. I mark it on picture here:


http://imgur.com/czKZMAq

Is it normal?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

That is not normal and this should not come loose. The head is threaded, and glued with not reversible glue into the stanchion. However, impacts or crashed can break this bond.
If no crash or hard impact or load was invloved, this should not come loose.
Please get in touch with me by e-mail, so we cna get this sorted.

Some notes on this:
We do recommend to tighten the seatpost only to the extent, that it can rotate inside the seattube under high loads. Just as you do with brake levers and shift levers on your handlebars. This helps avoid overloads and allows the post to rotate in critical situations.

One thing you should never do with a dropper post (of any make), but probably all of us have done it before:
Once in a while your post may rotate inside the seattube (during wheelie or after hitting the saddle with your leg in a DH section). NEVER reposition your saddle to straight forward postion by tapping it on the side step by step. This is doing your post not any good. 
Always release the seattube collar, readjust and then retighten the collar.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

@sarlej: You´ve also just sent me an e-mail about your problem, but you mentioned this:

"... but the play is small and it's hard to record because i moves, bike moves, camera moves and you don't see anything unusual on video."

I was thinking, that you really meant, that the head was loose and it can be turned left and right by pushing the saddle.
Now you were talking about little play, that you can not really see or demonstrate on video.
To be really honest, we´ve never had a single case, where there was "play" between upper tube and head. This is a threaded connection. So there can not really be "play".
Either the head is loose and you can bascially unscrew it further, but there can not be "play", where it wiggles left and right.
Or there is play between lower tube and upper tube, which is usually caused by worn pins. Most of the time, however, this play is absolutely normal (no post has zero play). Some posts are a little bit more tight, with very little rotatnional play and some are a little bit more loose.

I just write here, so everyone can follow up on this, that we really have to speak the same language, to know, what exactly the issue is. I am just confused about the term "rotational play" in this area.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

OK, Here we go again:
The play, Sarlej was referring to, was just the rotational play, which every post has (more or less) has - and also needs - to move smoothly.
Here is a quick video of the play, he was referring to:
https://peertube.video/videos/watch/ac9f8e53-e8fe-4348-afab-ed211dafdea9 
This play in the video is actually pretty small, and is nothing to worry about. The play may increase slightly over time, and can be reduced again by exchanging the pins (when worn). Sometimes it can already help to just switch the pin positions. Means: installing the existing pins in other slots during a lower tube service.
To be fair, this is his first dropper post, hence his question.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Hey, BikeYoke, make dream comes true! ) You are an innovative and creative company (I mean realy, not like others who has only marketing BS), so I know you CAN! ))

Dropper lever:

lever must change its length (yes, you already has it in Triggy X)
lever must has a movement left-right (you have two holes but it's better to not disassemble lever from clamp/brake lever but just to unscrew a bolt a little bit and move the lever)
lever must rotate up/down (like TansX/Brand-X - https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ua/en/brand-x-ascend-lever-kit-v2-1-x-gears-/rp-prod176215 - see last photo 10 degrees)
lever must has and adjuster to push it futher (like PNW Loam - https://www.pnwcomponents.com/colle...m-lever-dropper-remote?variant=12731382825037 - 



 4:41 )
lever must has all compatibilities (not only new I-Spec EV but also I-Spec B and ALL others for any brake manufacturers)
bearing (like in WolfTooth or ZTTO)

I don't meant to take their ideas, but anyhow - a dropper lever with all such-kind possibilities.

In some video you said that you decided to make your own dropper cause you couldn't find any that would be perfect, in each you found some bugs or troubles or ... So, you created great Rvive! Now, create great lever!
)))


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

sacki said:


> Once in a while your post may rotate inside the seattube (during wheelie or after hitting the saddle with your leg in a DH section). NEVER reposition your saddle to straight forward postion by tapping it on the side step by step. This is doing your post not any good.


Sure, but what do you think the chances are of a rider not doing that in a race when they crash and it rotates?


----------



## rotax7 (May 30, 2010)

TLDR: Like my BY 160, but need slightly less travel w/o having to buy a new post/brand to get the right fit.

So, I've been enjoying my BikeYoke 160 for about a year now. Used the Revive switch a few times to remove a little squish off the top. I regularly flip my bike up side down to do maint, so I expect it to some extent, that is why I chose a BY Revive.

My biggest issue is, 160mm is ~10mm too much travel for my use-case. I'd like to get this fitment sorted so I have less soreness related to the issue.

My options are:
1-Spacers in current post (probably makes the most sense, easiest, cheapish?).
2-A shorter post (which would likely be a 150 from a diff manuf, one that I can utilize limiting spacers on, which I'd rather not do due to cost, and I like my BY...).
3-Cut the frame/seatpost ~10mm (I actually measured it, and I could cut 8-12mm and still use my current clamp, but I'd really rather not have to cut my frame, and on top of that, unsure weather I can even insert the post another 10mm w/o hitting things inside the lowers of the seattube itself, this would basically be a 'free' mod however).

I've seen some of the talk about spacers, and not being officially supported, and not being warrantied, etc. Thats OK I guess, I bought this post with intent to do my own maint/repairs as needed. But, what I'm wondering is, if anyone has a simple and easy to buy 'kit' yet? Not looking to tear down my post and have to custom machine some part and hope it fits right and doesn't cause further wear on internals.

I'd really like to have an option from BY at this point. By looking through this thread, they know its of interest to many of their customers..and almost a requirement for an 'in between' option for 125 to 160mm.. 125 is just too short, 140-150mm would prob be perfect for me/my bike.

One other thing I'd like considered is an 'offset' mount option, so I can set-back the saddle slightly more. Esp. for these 'steep sta' frames that are becoming so popular. My saddle is setback as far as I'm comfortable going (beyond the max limit) currently..

If anyone has suggestion on where I can get a ready to install 'spacer' setup, I'd welcome it. Also, any pics of the end result, or before-after? I'm assuming it has something to do with?: http://www.peterverdone.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/PVD_0642.jpg as hinted at by Revive! | Peter Verdone Designs


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

@ka81ua: Thanks for your kind words and your trust in our expertise. We´ll see, what we can do in te future. Yet, let me go into detail about some of those points below:

2. lever must has a movement left-right (you have two holes but it's better to not disassemble lever from clamp/brake lever but just to unscrew a bolt a little bit and move the lever)
->When using our I-Spec adapters, you can already move them slightly left and right on the adapter themselves without taking off the remote.

3. lever must rotate up/down (like TansX/Brand-X - https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod176215 - see last photo 10 degrees)
-> This is something I don´t think is really neccessary. It would require a complex joint, that would make the remote heavy and bulky. Also it would make the remote itself incompatible with I-Spec and Matchmaker adapters.

4. lever must has and adjuster to push it futher (like PNW Loam - https://www.pnwcomponents.com/collec...12731382825037 - 



 4:41 )
-> Good idea, which we've already been thinking about and tested of in the past (we´ve used a design similar to a limiter screw on snap ring pliers). Not sure, if we´ll really use it series production, though, as some customers are already overwhelmed wit a barrel adjuster. You know, we have to keep things as simple as possible, so every customer understands, how to install a post. More adjustability also means more issues and questions, which are not a problem of the product itself, but a matter of handling. It is really astonishing, how many questions we need to answer, which we didn´t think if we would ever need to answer. If we can avoid simple questions, we´d like to do so.

5. lever must has all compatibilities (not only new I-Spec EV but also I-Spec B and ALL others for any brake manufacturers). 
-> We already have Matchmaker (SRAM, TRP, Trickstuff), Mixmaster (Formula), Shiftmixer (Magura), Hope Shiftermount, Shimano I-Spec B, I-Spec II compatibility. Besides the new Shimano I-Spec EV (which we are already working on), I am not sure, which other compatibility one could ask for.

6. bearing (like in WolfTooth or ZTTO)
that is a nice feature, but it will also increase the size and weight of the remote. Oue Triggy remote takes a few rides to bed-in, but once it has, it will move basically friction free and without play.
We have tested other remotes with bearings, and some of them had significant play. It is simply, because the braings are so small and the leverage can make the tiniest play noticeable.


----------



## Verbl Kint (Feb 14, 2013)

Looking forward to the i-spec EV adapter 

Sent using Tapatalk


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

I'm in the exact same situation...need about 10mm more drop and post would be perfect. Really hesitant to cut my frame thought it could handle it.

So I just ordered some aluminum tubing off ebay in various sizes close to what was called for in the post by Peter Verdone. Not sure I have the guts to do the project but figured I'd at least get my hands on the raw stock if I get inspired.

Would love it if Sacki/Bikeyoke would chime in here on the prospects of the height reduction kit or at least advice on how to do this without damaging anything.

I love the post and don't want to use another brand if possible.



rotax7 said:


> TLDR: Like my BY 160, but need slightly less travel w/o having to buy a new post/brand to get the right fit.
> 
> So, I've been enjoying my BikeYoke 160 for about a year now. Used the Revive switch a few times to remove a little squish off the top. I regularly flip my bike up side down to do maint, so I expect it to some extent, that is why I chose a BY Revive.
> 
> ...


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> 2. lever must has a movement left-right (you have two holes but it's better to not disassemble lever from clamp/brake lever but just to unscrew a bolt a little bit and move the lever)
> ->When using our I-Spec adapters, you can already move them slightly left and right on the adapter themselves without taking off the remote.


I use I-Spec B with 2 holes in your remote to move it left-right. I have to disassemble remote from brake's lever to put it reeeealy left (or right). It's much better to have a "sliding" possibility to move remote left-right without taking it apart from brakes. Yes, you have a "hole" in adapter to "slide" remote but it's way too small (something about 7-10 mm). If you could make it all together in one, I mean holes in remote and hole in adapter, in ONE sliding adjuster - that would be perfect.



sacki said:


> 3. lever must rotate up/down (like TansX/Brand-X - https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod176215 - see last photo 10 degrees)
> -> This is something I don´t think is really neccessary. It would require a complex joint, that would make the remote heavy and bulky. Also it would make the remote itself incompatible with I-Spec and Matchmaker adapters.


Actually just right now, I want so much to rotate a little bit a lever of your remote verticaly. Remote is connected to Saint's lever, Saint's lever is positioned idealy for me (we all understand that braking comfort is the most important), but remote is a liiiitle not as I would it like to be positioned. I guess those 8-10 degrees would save me. )) It's not necessary to do it like Brand X, look at Crankbrothers - the have same possibility but in very different way. Like an idea^ you made an assembling adjuster (screw) to make lever longer (Triggy X), so possibily you could make ''rotationg' adjuster at same place... I mean, the tip of lever is rotating, not the whole lever.
Anyway, if you'll implement these adjusting (in any way, it's not necessary to do it same way as Brand X) - that would be great!



sacki said:


> 4. lever must has and adjuster to push it futher (like PNW Loam - https://www.pnwcomponents.com/collec...12731382825037 -
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh, c'mon, it's not dropper internals (hard to understand and servicing for lot of users) - it's a remote, nobody will complain about any difficulty and I don't think there would be some additional questions. Anyway, PNW done it very simply and their solution is just perfect. And, by the way, thousands of riders are thankfully using same idea on their shifter from Sram (X0, XX1) where you can "rotate" lever of shifter. It's a very desirable feature for lot of people.



sacki said:


> 5. lever must has all compatibilities (not only new I-Spec EV but also I-Spec B and ALL others for any brake manufacturers).
> -> We already have Matchmaker (SRAM, TRP, Trickstuff), Mixmaster (Formula), Shiftmixer (Magura), Hope Shiftermount, Shimano I-Spec B, I-Spec II compatibility. Besides the new Shimano I-Spec EV (which we are already working on), I am not sure, which other compatibility one could ask for.
> .


I meant with your any future remotes! I know that today's version is compatible (I use it with Saints M820 )) )
I hope you will not forget in future about I-Spec B, like others done. And, of course, there always will be adapters for ANY new standarts on any brakes. )



sacki said:


> 6. bearing (like in WolfTooth or ZTTO)
> that is a nice feature, but it will also increase the size and weight of the remote. Oue Triggy remote takes a few rides to bed-in, but once it has, it will move basically friction free and without play.
> We have tested other remotes with bearings, and some of them had significant play. It is simply, because the braings are so small and the leverage can make the tiniest play noticeable.


Seriously, X gramms? )) Wolf Tooth make remotes with bearings and literaly NONE complain about weight, so trust me, if you will make yours with bearing - people will thank you till the end of their lives. )

I trully believe that if you would implement all these features (same way as other brands, your personal way, any way ) ) in new remote - that would be something unbelievable and you won't have any problems with customers (with questions or anything else).

Once again, thank you very much for perfect product!!


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

ka81ua said:


> I use I-Spec B with 2 holes in your remote to move it left-right. I have to disassemble remote from brake's lever to put it reeeealy left (or right). It's much better to have a "sliding" possibility to move remote left-right without taking it apart from brakes. Yes, you have a "hole" in adapter to "slide" remote but it's way too small (something about 7-10 mm). If you could make it all together in one, I mean holes in remote and hole in adapter, in ONE sliding adjuster - that would be perfect.
> 
> Actually just right now, I want so much to rotate a little bit a lever of your remote verticaly. Remote is connected to Saint's lever, Saint's lever is positioned idealy for me (we all understand that braking comfort is the most important), but remote is a liiiitle not as I would it like to be positioned. I guess those 8-10 degrees would save me. ))...


Sometimes is better to use clamp rather than matchmaker, which allows you to do both required adjustments easily.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

PeterG said:


> Sometimes is better to use clamp rather than matchmaker, which allows you to do both required adjustments easily.


Sometimes (rather often) using clamp will make even worse for getting best lever position.
We can continue such-kind conversation forever, the fact is - few different adjusting options (which already EXIST in other different dropper remotes as I mentioned) would be very appreciated!


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Surely . You took best of the best from various levers asking manufacturer to include them in one product. Don't forget for final competitive lever price, which limits the manufacturer possibilities. The most likely that's the reason, why no lever has all required features, IMHO.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

IF any of my propositiones will be added to next Triggy Xx - profit! )


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Looking for a 150mm. My current reverb is a 170, slammed. A 150mm slammed would be perfect. Does bike yoke really not do a 150?


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

There's a 160. It fits in the same space as most other 150 from other manufacturers


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

onzadog said:


> There's a 160. It fits in the same space as most other 150 from other manufacturers


That's one of the great things about the Revive, when I got my 160, it was replacing a 125 because it would squeeze in where most 150s couldn't quite fit. There are finally other options for tight fitments but the Revive is still the overall best post on the market in my opinion.


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Velodonata said:


> That's one of the great things about the Revive, when I got my 160, it was replacing a 125 because it would squeeze in where most 150s couldn't quite fit. There are finally other options for tight fitments but the Revive is still the overall best post on the market in my opinion.


But if I am needing a post that is slammed, and has a max height of 150mm, then the 160mm revive would not work for me right?


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Not correct. Once you can fit the seatpost in the frame in such way, that the saddle is just in the right height for you, you can choose post with max. available travel, i.e. also 160mm. Travel itself primary doesn't mean anything in this context. Check the 1st post in this thread https://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-info-tipps-tricks-troubleshooting-1087156.html for overall seatpost dimensions.


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

PeterG said:


> Not correct. Once you can fit the seatpost in the frame in such way, that the saddle is just in the right height for you, you can choose post with max. available travel, i.e. also 160mm. Travel itself primary doesn't mean anything in this context. Check the 1st post in this thread https://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-info-tipps-tricks-troubleshooting-1087156.html for overall seatpost dimensions.


Sorry maybe I am confused, but this was what I was thinking....
I currently have a 170mm reverb. It is slammed.
I found that if I lower the 170mm to 150, it is perfect. So if I were to by another reverb at 150, slam it, it would be perfect.

So if I went with a revive, that is 160, slammed it, wouldn't it be 10m higher than a 150m reverb? Thus, the 160 revive being to big?


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

I recommend you again to check BY 160mm seatpost dimensions on the first page of this thread and compare them with Reverb 170mm if it fits frame OK and suits you. I would not like to bear your responsibility on my shoulders.


----------



## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

PeterG said:


> Surely . You took best of the best from various levers asking manufacturer to include them in one product. Don't forget for final competitive lever price, which limits the manufacturer possibilities. The most likely that's the reason, why no lever has all required features, IMHO.





ka81ua said:


> I use I-Spec B with 2 holes in your remote to move it left-right. I have to disassemble remote from brake's lever to put it reeeealy left (or right). It's much better to have a "sliding" possibility to move remote left-right without taking it apart from brakes. Yes, you have a "hole" in adapter to "slide" remote but it's way too small (something about 7-10 mm). If you could make it all together in one, I mean holes in remote and hole in adapter, in ONE sliding adjuster - that would be perfect.
> 
> Actually just right now, I want so much to rotate a little bit a lever of your remote verticaly. Remote is connected to Saint's lever, Saint's lever is positioned idealy for me (we all understand that braking comfort is the most important), but remote is a liiiitle not as I would it like to be positioned. I guess those 8-10 degrees would save me. )) It's not necessary to do it like Brand X, look at Crankbrothers - the have same possibility but in very different way. Like an idea^ you made an assembling adjuster (screw) to make lever longer (Triggy X), so possibily you could make ''rotationg' adjuster at same place... I mean, the tip of lever is rotating, not the whole lever.
> Anyway, if you'll implement these adjusting (in any way, it's not necessary to do it same way as Brand X) - that would be great!
> ...


I agree. A wolf tooth like remote would be highly appreciated. Those few extra grams are well worth it. All my buddies including me are now running a wolf tooth remote with the bikeyoke dropper.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

lardo5150 said:


> , slammed it,


I suppose you mean - you insert dropper post in the seat-tube of frame fully, just to the dropper collar?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

All droppers are 150 mm travel, except Revive which is 160 mm :


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> I suppose you mean - you insert dropper post in the seat-tube of frame fully, just to the dropper collar?


Correct, post was fully inserted.


----------



## MTBTruckee (Oct 17, 2010)

I have a Revive 185 with Triggy Remote that came on my Ibis Ripmo (purchased May 2019). I hang the bike on a hook in my garage by the front wheel with the post fully dropped when not in use. When I go to ride, the first time I push the remote, it is extremely hard to push. After it is engaged once it seems to operate normally. I’ve greased the lever and reset the post but the issue persists. Any idea what the issue might be and how to fix it?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

lardo5150 said:


> Correct, post was fully inserted.


Most important for you is - Collar to Rail.
So, as you see, even 160 mm Revive will be lower then 150 mm Reverb!


----------



## MTBTruckee (Oct 17, 2010)

I have a 185 Revive with Triggy Remote that came on my Ibis Ripmo (purchased March 2019). Each time I ride, the first time I push the remote it is extremely hard to push. After that it seems to function normally. Any idea what the cause/solution may be? (When not in use, the bike hangs by the front wheel in my garage with the post all the way down). 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

MTBTruckee said:


> I have a Revive 185 with Triggy Remote that came on my Ibis Ripmo (purchased May 2019). I hang the bike on a hook in my garage by the front wheel with the post fully dropped when not in use. When I go to ride, the first time I push the remote, it is extremely hard to push. After it is engaged once it seems to operate normally. I've greased the lever and reset the post but the issue persists. Any idea what the issue might be and how to fix it?


Have a look at https://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-1033134-3.html#post13477733


----------



## MTBTruckee (Oct 17, 2010)

Pretty sure it’s not temperature related as it’s summer time here right now. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rotax7 (May 30, 2010)

MTBTruckee said:


> Pretty sure it's not temperature related as it's summer time here right now.


So, I had this issue when I stored and transported my bike with the post fully extended/up. It went from a cool house into the hot temps and direct sun light outside. When I'd get to the trailhead the lever would be 'stuck' initially.

Since then, I've begun to store and transport with it partially compressed (not at full extension, nor at full-drop). I have had zero issues since. The link above is what helped me solve my issue.


----------



## MTBTruckee (Oct 17, 2010)

Thanks! I’ll give that a shot. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

...  ...


----------



## BigHerm (May 21, 2018)

Love my 185. 15 months into ownership. I just started having a weird problem though.

Lately, at various times (wheelies and tight climbing switchbacks primarily) my saddle would rotate. I figured the whole post was rotating in the frame so I would loosen the collar, readjust, then retorque the collar. I added carbon paste after this happened several times.

I started paying attention to the markings on the post and determined that the lower part of the post wasn't rotating at all. Just the upper stanchion that goes up and down. 

What do I do about this? Thanks for a great product btw.


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

I doubt the stanchion is rotating relative to the slider as there as 6 brass keys to stop this.

It's more likely that the bond between the stanchion and the saddle clamp has broken loose. I'd try a little dab of paint on the join to confirm this, then drop Sacki an email at Bikeyoke and I'm sure he'd sort you out.


----------



## Crillz (Feb 12, 2014)

I may get a new frame, I have a 160mm Revive, but the new frame has a smaller seat tube diameter. To swap from a 31.6 down to a 30.9, is this all I need:

30.9mm Lower Seatpost Tube, Bushing, and Wiper (Fits 160mm Travel)
Mfg #:37, 38, 39 -30.9/160

From Universalcycles.com


Thanks for any help. Didn't really find this info on the bike yoke website.


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

I did a search but did not see it.

Can you control the speed of return? Or is that just managed with the amount of air you put into it?


----------



## BigHerm (May 21, 2018)

onzadog said:


> I doubt the stanchion is rotating relative to the slider as there as 6 brass keys to stop this.
> 
> It's more likely that the bond between the stanchion and the saddle clamp has broken loose. I'd try a little dab of paint on the join to confirm this, then drop Sacki an email at Bikeyoke and I'm sure he'd sort you out.


Sacki is sending me a new post, no paint necessary. Really feeling validated on choosing and recommending this product. Big  to BikeYoke.


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

I am coming from a Reverb.
i setup my Revive tonight.
Where the cable meets the remote (arrow in picture), is this supposed to be secure?
The cable slides in, and I tightened that nut thing, but if I wanted to I could still pull the cable out.
is this by design? What is the little turn nut/bolt on the end of the remote used for then?


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

lardo5150 said:


> I am coming from a Reverb.
> i setup my Revive tonight.
> Where the cable meets the remote (arrow in picture), is this supposed to be secure?
> The cable slides in, and I tightened that nut thing, but if I wanted to I could still pull the cable out.
> ...


You installed the cable backwards? I'm nearly certain that is it. The cable installs just like a shift cable or brake cable, except at the end you install the clamp and cut off the excess.


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

No, installed it exactly like from the manual.
There is a femural on each end.
The part i cut and added the locking cable end is at the dropper end.
The built in lock end is at the remote end.Full disclosure that pic is not my remote, was just using it as a picture.
Also, le tme clarify, when I say "cable comes out", I mean housing. Sorry.

Should the housing be secured to the remote, or will it be able to slide out?
The cable is secure, sorry for the confusion.

Again, wondering if the twister turn knob on the end of the remote, is supposed to secure the femural on the housing.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

lardo5150 said:


> I am coming from a Reverb.
> i setup my Revive tonight.
> Where the cable meets the remote (arrow in picture), is this supposed to be secure?
> The cable slides in, and I tightened that nut thing, but if I wanted to I could still pull the cable out.
> ...


That is cable adjusting barrel, like on derailleur shifter.


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

I got ya.
Sorry I am dumb.

So, the cable housing, it just sits in there right? Nothing secures it to the barrel, correct?

I have the barrel tightened all the way right now, i am assuming if I start to unscrew it, it will pull in the cable tighter?


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

lardo5150 said:


> I got ya.
> Sorry I am dumb.
> 
> So, the cable housing, it just sits in there right? Nothing secures it to the barrel, correct?
> ...


It sounds like you are just pulling against the quick release (at the post) when you are tugging on the cable housing. The entire mech is spring loaded, so you are pulling against the spring. There should be no play (unsprung) movement, but it's normal to be able to pull on the cable housing, if you couldn't, then you'd never be able to remove the quick release at the post.


----------



## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

I broke my reset lever yesterday, ironically while trying to demonstrate it to some friends.

Any tips for how to remove the broken stub from the hex hole? I'm assuming drill it out carefully with a Dremel tool?

Edit: I drilled into it carefully with a 3/32 bit. After I got about 1mm in, the friction between the stub and the bit was enough for me to pull out the stub with the bit. I lubed the rest of the reset assembly and tested it. It moves fine with a 4mm wrench but the amount of force on the lever is pretty high (I have a spare lever), so I decided to leave the lever off. I carry a multi-tool, and have only had to reset the post once or twice, so it's not like I need to reset the post constantly.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Today the seat head snapped off the post. I stabbed myself in the bag pretty bad (still hurts) and happened about 2/3 of the way in on a big ride...day 2 of 2.

Imo the amount of aluminum attaching the seat head to the post is seriously inadequate. This post was basically new and certainly looking forward to time and effort to warranty a $460 post.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Andeh said:


> I broke my reset lever yesterday, ironically while trying to demonstrate it to some friends.
> 
> Any tips for how to remove the broken stub from the hex hole? I'm assuming drill it out carefully with a Dremel tool?
> 
> Edit: I drilled into it carefully with a 3/32 bit. After I got about 1mm in, the friction between the stub and the bit was enough for me to pull out the stub with the bit. I lubed the rest of the reset assembly and tested it. It moves fine with a 4mm wrench but the amount of force on the lever is pretty high (I have a spare lever), so I decided to leave the lever off. I carry a multi-tool, and have only had to reset the post once or twice, so it's not like I need to reset the post constantly.


Tip - epoxide.


----------



## jon_ssss (Feb 20, 2009)

WHALENARD said:


> View attachment 1272727
> 
> 
> Today the seat head snapped off the post. I stabbed myself in the bag pretty bad (still hurts) and happened about 2/3 of the way in on a big ride...day 2 of 2.
> ...


Ouch. I hope you're ok.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

jon_ssss said:


> Ouch. I hope you're ok.


Thanks. A little sore today but am sure I'll be fine.
Bummed as I loved this post. It was great right up until it wasn't


----------



## dblspeed (Jan 31, 2006)

sacki said:


> *NOTE:
> Do not use WD40, Brunox, Fork Juice or similar (penetrating) oils on your REVIVE or on any other your suspension parts in general. Those products will just wash out your grease over time!** Also do not use any other oil inside your lower tube. Proper grease is the way to go.*




Hi, would the finish line stanchion lube (fluoride) fall in the above category?

Cheers


----------



## dblspeed (Jan 31, 2006)

anybody?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

I do not know this lubricant, but I would assume that it falls into this category, yes.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

About @jon_ssss's issue.
It is not the first time we see this happening, yet it is very rare. 
I´ll provide some numbers here:
In over 30.000 produced units of droppers, we have had just a bit over 1% (something below 1.2% to be more precise) reported warranty cases.
Those include everything from hydraulic issues, mechanical issues, and structural issues.
This is a very good value for a suspension product
Structural issues, where posts have actually failed or broken are about 1/10 of those warranty cases.
While some of our customers, us included, and also 100% of our sponsored riders (>100 posts are out ther with sponsored, professional riders, who bascially ride every day) have never had a single structural failure, there are for example three customers, who already broke two posts in a row. Then, some of the failures had a severe crash involved (e.g bent saddle rails) before the post gave up a few days later. Other customers, had the saddle installed out of the allowed range (too far too the back) and some of them had the saddle clamp oriented the wrong way.
So in some of the cases, we do have explanations for such a failure.
On some of the cases, however, we could not find anything extraordinary about. At least we did not get any feedback from the customer to get a lead.
Every warranty cases goes over my table, and so I am always keen to finding out, which circumstances the failure happend around.
We are super sorry to see or hear about any single problem with our posts, and of course a structural failure is that, what we don´t want to see at all.
On test benches, we never had a single case, where a head snapped off, as seen in the picture. Yet, it can apparently happen in real life.
We are currently still investigating this structural behaviour and trying to find a solution to avoid such failures in the future.
Just wanted to leave those words here, as I felt I shoud give a statement.

I have also already reached out to Jon_ssss, a few days ago, but did not hear back from him so far. His case is even more remarkable, because he said, that hos post is bascially new, so I am really curious about this one.


----------



## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

sacki said:


> About @jon_ssss's issue...
> ...I have also already reached out to Jon_ssss, a few days ago, but did not hear back from him so far. His case is even more remarkable, because he said, that hos post is bascially new, so I am really curious about this one.


I think you may have reached out to the wrong individual. It was WHALENARD who had the broken post head issue. Jon_ssss only commented on it

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Oh, I did actually reach out to WHALENARD (so, to the right person).
I just mistakenly took the wrong name here from the comment with the picture.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

sacki said:


> Oh, I did actually reach out to WHALENARD (so, to the right person).
> I just mistakenly took the wrong name here from the comment with the picture.


Sacki, thanks for reaching out to me. That's GREAT costumer service and truely appreciate it. Super busy this time of year but should have time to get the warranty process started this afternoon.
Thanks


----------



## dblspeed (Jan 31, 2006)

sacki said:


> I do not know this lubricant, but I would assume that it falls into this category, yes.


Thanks, I have 2 Revives btw, don't think I can ever use another post!

Looking at the youtube video I read: "IMPORTANT NOTE:
Releasing air (unlike shown in the video)", but I don't actually see air getting released on the video, am I missing it?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

I guess I need to update the description. We have cut the air release part already out of the video.


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

With the Bike Yoke, and looking at how far the saddle can go back or go forward, where it says MAX on the rails, which clamp are we comparing this to, the top or bottom clamp?

So using my actual seat and post, am I at the max or can it be moved more?


----------



## dblspeed (Jan 31, 2006)

Regarding the suggested circlip pliers, Knipex 49 41 A11 and 48 41 J21, since they're pretty expensive for occasional use (around 50 euros each here in Europe), I bought the 48 21 J21 and 49 21 A11 instead, which cost less than half as much and lack the "overstretching limiter" feature, they should be ok for once or twice per year use on my Revive seatposts.


----------



## jobo_ph (Oct 13, 2015)

Hi! How can I upgrade to the microvalve? I watched the video on full rebuild and it mentioned replacing inner tube (part 22). Is this the case? Or is it only the valve needing to be replaced? Is the microvalve included in the o-ring kit?


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

What’s a fair price to sell a revive to a good friend? Doesn’t fit my new bike, works on buddies bike. I don’t want to even charge but he insists. A search found no used revives for sale, not surprising as they work great. Any ideas?


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

Mark16q said:


> What's a fair price to sell a revive to a good friend? Doesn't fit my new bike, works on buddies bike. I don't want to even charge but he insists. A search found no used revives for sale, not surprising as they work great. Any ideas?


How old is it? I might pay $250 for one, from a friend, with a known history, low hours, and if it were exactly the right fitment. Otherwise I wouldn't pay more than $0.50 on the dollar, if that, for any used dropper. If it's not a bargain, there are too many potential issues to not have a warranty, even with a premium post like a Revive. Since you weren't looking to make anything anyway, I would say $150 to a friend if it's nice.


----------



## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

Mark16q said:


> What's a fair price to sell a revive to a good friend? Doesn't fit my new bike, works on buddies bike. I don't want to even charge but he insists.


$50 and he buys dinner and drinks.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Nat said:


> $50 and he buys dinner and drinks.


I'd say something like this. Revive's an are expensive high end piece. If a friend gave me one I'd buy him a nice bottle of Scotch or some really high end cigars or a nice headlamp or something. Something he would enjoy that he wouldn't typically buy for himself, that's how it works.


----------



## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

WHALENARD said:


> I'd say something like this. Revive's an are expensive high end piece. If a friend gave me one I'd buy him a nice bottle of Scotch or some really high end cigars or a nice headlamp or something. Something he would enjoy that he wouldn't typically buy for himself, that's how it works.


Yep. With close friends it's more like gift-giving than buying/selling.


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

Nat said:


> Yep. With close friends it's more like gift-giving than buying/selling.


Thanks all for the input.

I agree but he's insistent. It's in really good shape and well taken care of. Not the issue, he just doesn't like taking stuff for nothing. He was a dropper holdout and this finally got him to do it. Big surprise, first ride and he's giddy with how much more fun descending is.

If he really pushes, a bottle of wine or dinner. No doubt in my mind he'd give it to me if it were the other way around.

Good problems to have.


----------



## jobo_ph (Oct 13, 2015)

I had been investigating the Revive dropper of my friend as it was leaking air.

At first I though it was just an inflating issue as he didnt have a 2 stage shock pump. I was able to get the dropper working properly after inflation but after reinstalling his saddle, the leak happened again.

I opened up the dropper (lowers maintenance) and I was almost going to suggest to my friend we get the o-ring kit (hence my query a few posts beforehand for the microvalve upgrade) UNTIL I noticed these cracks.

I think air is leaking from these cracks...


----------



## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

Before I go spending more time (and a little money) on housing and new cable...
Can you get a good "feather" feel on this for when you just want to drop it a few mm. I'm coming off a couple Fall Line (R) , last one being a 150mm R. I bought the 185mm to throw on my Ripley, but I can't get that buttery smooth feathering I had on the 9Point8. I just replaced the lever with a PNW loam lever, but it still has a grabby initial stroke. I really miss the light feel on the Fall Line R that allowed me to easily drop the post just a few mm for the options on our pedally trails.

I don't want to waste my time replacing housing and cable if it won't help. Thx

EDIT: I worded this bad. I am referring to the smooth pull on the trigger, NOT the dropper itself. The 9point8 has equal resistance throughout the trigger pull and you can PARITALLY disengage the "brake" ie feather it. The Revive has an ON-OFF type feel. You pull the trigger and it hits a bit of resistance that eventually gives. You can't semi-disengage the brake to make micro adjustments.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

With the wolf tooth lever my revive had the lightest action of any post I've ever felt. I wouldn't necessarily equate that with ease of nailing those micro repositions for me though.


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

GatorXman said:


> Before I go spending more time (and a little money) on housing and new cable...
> Can you get a good "feather" feel on this for when you just want to drop it a few mm. I'm coming off a couple Fall Line (R) , last one being a 150mm R. I bought the 185mm to throw on my Ripley, but I can't get that buttery smooth feathering I had on the 9Point8. I just replaced the lever with a PNW loam lever, but it still has a grabby initial stroke. I really miss the light feel on the Fall Line R that allowed me to easily drop the post just a few mm for the options on our pedally trails.
> 
> I don't want to waste my time replacing housing and cable if it won't help. Thx


I will say this, the "buttery smooth" feeling on the Revive is as good or better than anything else on the market. I'm running a backup Transfer on one of my fatbikes right now and it feels like a brick on peanut butter compared to the velvety action of my Revives. I don't think it's possible to get as accurate as a few mm on a dropper post, moving along, bouncing, etc., but IME, it allows you to do this better than anything else. The regular Bikeyoke remote is plenty good. A wolftooth is a wash IME (have one too), the longer throw/reduced force wolftooth will obviously be a little easier yet, but one of the best features about these posts is how buttery/smooth they are stock. The action is very very good.


----------



## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

WHALENARD said:


> With the wolf tooth lever my revive had the lightest action of any post I've ever felt. I wouldn't necessarily equate that with ease of nailing those micro repositions for me though.





Jayem said:


> I will say this, the "buttery smooth" feeling on the Revive is as good or better than anything else on the market. I'm running a backup Transfer on one of my fatbikes right now and it feels like a brick on peanut butter compared to the velvety action of my Revives. I don't think it's possible to get as accurate as a few mm on a dropper post, moving along, bouncing, etc., but IME, it allows you to do this better than anything else. The regular Bikeyoke remote is plenty good. A wolftooth is a wash IME (have one too), the longer throw/reduced force wolftooth will obviously be a little easier yet, but one of the best features about these posts is how buttery/smooth they are stock. The action is very very good.


I edited my original post...

I worded this bad. I am referring to the smooth pull on the trigger, NOT the dropper itself. Both droppers drop and raise smoothly. However, the 9point8 has equal resistance throughout the trigger pull and you can PARITALLY disengage the "brake" ie feather it. This is super handy when trying to just drop it a few mm. The Revive has an ON-OFF type feel. You pull the trigger and it hits a bit of resistance that eventually gives and the "brake" fully disengages. You can't semi-disengage the brake to make micro adjustments.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

GatorXman said:


> I edited my original post...
> 
> I worded this bad. I am referring to the smooth pull on the trigger, NOT the dropper itself. Both droppers drop and raise smoothly. However, the 9point8 has equal resistance throughout the trigger pull and you can PARITALLY disengage the "brake" ie feather it. This is super handy when trying to just drop it a few mm. The Revive has an ON-OFF type feel. You pull the trigger and it hits a bit of resistance that eventually gives and the "brake" fully disengages. You can't semi-disengage the brake to make micro adjustments.


I get what you're saying and is what I eluded to in my post. I'd disagree on "on/off" but does seem to have a narrower window compared to posts that use cartridges. Ultimately I think it's a matter of conditioning and taste. For example I don't like the actual brake mechanism style posts like 9point8 at all, they feel very unrefined comparatively. With that if I had been using one for years others may feel strange compared to it .


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

WHALENARD said:


> I get what you're saying and is what I eluded to in my post. I'd disagree on "on/off" but does seem to have a narrower window compared to posts that use cartridges. Ultimately I think it's a matter of conditioning and taste. For example I don't like the actual brake mechanism style posts like 9point8 at all, they feel very unrefined comparatively. With that if I had been using one for years others may feel strange compared to it .


The 9point8 uses a unique mechanism that works entirely different from any other post(Race Face licenses the mechanism for the Turbine post) and has a different feel for this reason. The Revive will never feel like the 9point8, which could be a problem if you were very used to the 9point8 although I feel like the Revive is a superior post in general.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Hmmm ... I went from Race Face Turbine to Revive and found it very plush and sensitive enough to small height adjustments. Worth to mention I use X-Fusion Hilo remote joystick type lever (because of 2x drivetrain, hence 3 levers on the left side). I also think the sensitivity of height adjustment can be related to cable preload tension too (barrel adjustment).


----------



## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

If micro adjustments are the objective, the best technique I've found is to put one foot at the bottom of the pedal stroke, stand on that leg, and then actuate your dropper. By varying the bend of my knee slightly from that position, I can consistently get pretty tiny increments of seat position. Much more predictable than pushing the lever and trying to "squat" with both knees to a particular seat height.
With just a little practice, its easy to nail that ~25mm down position for seated riding through tech sections, for example.


----------



## richwales (Oct 23, 2008)

*Bikeyoke travel reduction*

For anyone interested I have reduced the travel on my 160mm bikeyoke by 20mm. It now tops out at 140mm and allows me to use the bikeyoke in my new frame (which had less insertion depth than previous). A friend of mine fabricated a spacer and it was a relatively straightforward procedure to fit. It's an interference fit so doesn't move on the shaft and works perfectly. If anyone is interested in more details drop me a PM. Cheers


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

richwales said:


> For anyone interested I have reduced the travel on my 160mm bikeyoke by 20mm. It now tops out at 140mm and allows me to use the bikeyoke in my new frame (which had less insertion depth than previous). A friend of mine fabricated a spacer and it was a relatively straightforward procedure to fit. It's an interference fit so doesn't move on the shaft and works perfectly. If anyone is interested in more details drop me a PM. Cheers


Good job wish I had the guts to do this. Hopefully bikeyoke will give an official kit to accomplish this and shorten the stack height when needed. At least the buddy I gave my bikeyoke to is loving it.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

What is everyone finding as a good replacement for the triggy lever? I recently got a Paul Components lever because I usually love their stuff, but honestly I don’t like it that much. It’s too long of a throw. I know the Wolftooth levers are pretty popular, but is that the LA or regular version? My only complaint with the triggy is that it just felt cheap, so I wanted to replace it.


----------



## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

blaklabl said:


> What is everyone finding as a good replacement for the triggy lever? I recently got a Paul Components lever because I usually love their stuff, but honestly I don't like it that much. It's too long of a throw. I know the Wolftooth levers are pretty popular, but is that the LA or regular version? My only complaint with the triggy is that it just felt cheap, so I wanted to replace it.


No complaints with triggy from me.

I used the Wolf Tooth aftermarket for a long time and loved it, but that was on my GD post.

When i bought Revive I thought I'd have a test period using Triggy and could go back to WT if warranted. But never thought about t.

In fact, I find the Triggy to be a lot easier to adjust (position), and to thread cable. I haven't used WT in a while now, but given that I stuck with triggy, the lever action must be similar, or it made me forget?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

Anybody have time on the Divine and compare it to the Revive?


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

blaklabl said:


> What is everyone finding as a good replacement for the triggy lever? I recently got a Paul Components lever because I usually love their stuff, but honestly I don't like it that much. It's too long of a throw. I know the Wolftooth levers are pretty popular, but is that the LA or regular version? My only complaint with the triggy is that it just felt cheap, so I wanted to replace it.


The standard Wolf Tooth lever works great with my Revive, I already had one when I got my Revive so I left it on the bike. I ended up using the Triggy on another bike with my old Thomson post, it works fine too but I prefer the feel of the WT lever. It feels smoother and more solid, definitely not "cheap".


----------



## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

Got some saddle time with the loam lever, and after engaging the dropper a few times, everything smoothed out and i can micro adjust much easier than with the stock lever. Super smooth action like you guys described. I think the cable must have been hanging or something from being rolled so tight in the package, because the throw and action of the lever got better and better as the ride progressed.


----------



## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

How do you guys clean the lower tube? Especially the grooves, they have some gunk stuck inside that I can't seem to get rid of...


----------



## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

I imagine it's no different than cleaning fork stanchions: use some mild degreaser and run lint-free shop towels through them a few times. I've never had to use the degreaser myself. Usually a couple passes with towels gets it spotless.


----------



## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

Yes but the grooves are too hard to access with a rag, there is no pressure in them so the gunk doesn't budge.


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

You can use isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush, or a small bottle brush.


----------



## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

Aglo said:


> You can use isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush, or a small bottle brush.


Exactly what I ended up doing. I also used a cotton swap as the channels near the dust wiper were really dirty and needed a good rubbing the toothbrush couldn't provide.

Conclusion: PrepM attracts too much dirt, I got some SRAM Butter in the mean time and it's 100x better.


----------



## Skarhead (Mar 15, 2018)

Hey bikeyoke, are you goin to have adapter for the new shimano brakes ispec EV?


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Skarhead said:


> Hey bikeyoke, are you goin to have adapter for the new shimano brakes ispec EV?


X2!
I'm going to replace my brake lever and it would be nice not having to install the sleek light weight and good looking handlebar clamp .


----------



## ImaginaryFriend (Mar 24, 2009)

So you use grease for the install and not carbon assembly paste? Even in a carbon frame?
First carbon frame, first Revive.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

For the years I use exclusively sticky grease (PrepM), very very thin layer, on all posts even in carbon frames, the same for the Revive.


----------



## gcann (Jul 12, 2008)

Got the wrong service kit, would it be ok to replace the wiper with the metal spring with the one without?

Also, would it be ok to use a smear of generic teflon grease on the stanchion and wiper? (not for the service)


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

ImaginaryFriend said:


> So you use grease for the install and not carbon assembly paste? Even in a carbon frame?
> First carbon frame, first Revive.


This depends on whether or not the post slips or rotates too easily in your frame at the suggested binder torque.


----------



## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

Should I release air in the post before flying with my bike?

Thanks


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Yeah, We are making it already and should have it ready to ship before end of the year.
Actually, we had planned it for a long time, but did many adjustments over several prototype stages. 
Took much longer than expected for such a little piece.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Yes, please use grease!
Carbon Paste can rub off the anodization of your post and also cause the post to get stuck inside your frame in the worst case.
We always suggest to use a layer of thick grease on your post, as it will help to prevent corrosion and also helps keep water away from getting in your frame through the seattube.
Carbon past is only an emergency solution, if you can´t get your post secured properly with grease.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

The wiper will not properly fit, if used in the wrong lower tube. 
Are you located in the US? If so, you may want to get in touch with the guys from Dirtlabs. They may sell you a wiper only or exchange the wiper, if you pay for the shipping.
Good Guys!

Regarding the grease: What do you want to use it for, if not for the service?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

BTW: I´ve updated the explosion view drawing on the first page.


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

*sacki*, could you please explain in a brief the difference between Divine and Revive? Divine has user adjustable travel that's a big advantage for many customers and lower pricing. Why one should choose Revive? )


----------



## gcann (Jul 12, 2008)

sacki said:


> The wiper will not properly fit, if used in the wrong lower tube.
> Are you located in the US? If so, you may want to get in touch with the guys from Dirtlabs. They may sell you a wiper only or exchange the wiper, if you pay for the shipping.
> Good Guys!
> 
> Regarding the grease: What do you want to use it for, if not for the service?


Hi, I'm located in Europe.

Regarding the grease, I want to use it regularly to keep the wiper from getting dry (I ride in dry dusty conditions) and also to help keep dirt and water (from post ride clean up) away.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

OK, Differences between DIVINE and REVIVE:

First of all, it is really hard to even tell for me, which post I prefer over the other.

Both posts are super easy to service, to take apart and put back together. 
The lower tube service follows the exact same steps as the REVIVE and also requires the same spare parts kit. 
If you want to completely strip down the post, then DIVINE is even simpler to take apart and rebuild due to less parts on the internals.

DIVINE is slightly lighter than REVIVE.

DIVINE has an auto reset function, which means, you do not have to reset the post manually anymore. It will automatically do by itself.

DIVINE is slightly cheaper than REVIVE.

DIVINE features the same materials and build/finish quality as REVIVE.

DIVIVE is travel-adjustable.

Now one might think, why you would ever choose REVIVE over DIVINE.

There are simply the superb actuation and dropping forces, which are significantly lower on the REVIVE. The REVIVE has a smoothness, which is unrivaled by other hydraulic droppers on the market. 
This does not mean, that the DIVINE is hard to drop or to engage. The DIVINE is still at least same, if not better than most other droppers on the market. You will basically only notice a difference, if you´ve felt a REVIVE before. 
And for those enthusiasts, who are looking for the smoothest dropper possible, the REVIVE is the best choice.

I am visiting our dealers once in a while and there is one nice story, that reminds me, that REVIVE can be a changer for some people:
I was at a dealer, to whom a customer just returned a rental bike (EVIL Offering). The customer had the bike for about 10 days for a vacation trip to Italy. I was in the corner listening them talk stuff about bike and suspension, ride feeling, ... (customer did not know, who I was). Then the customer mentioned something, which really surprised me. He literally mentioned, that we was really impressed by the dropper post and how easy it was to use, and that he had never had used a post like this before. I am not exaggerating. No need to mention, that this almost left me blushing and of course it made me really really proud about the REVIVE.
Of course, ourselves, we do know, that the REVIVE is smooth and good. Yet, hearing is from a customer, who did not even know about this post or brand before (it was just a dropper to him), and who recognized, that it did something differently than other posts, showed me, that REVIVE IS different than other posts, and that people notice.
I am not saying, that it is necessary to have super light drop, yet it definitely cna make a difference for some customers.

For everyone, who doesn´t care if the post requires 8kg or 12g to drop (values just exemplary without real life reference) and who believes, that his ass is heavy enough anyway (like me), then the DIVINE might be the better option.

The REVIVE is simply state of the art and industry leading in terms of friction and smoothness, that is, why the REVIVE will stay our top of the line model.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

gcann said:


> Hi, I'm located in Europe.
> 
> Regarding the grease, I want to use it regularly to keep the wiper from getting dry (I ride in dry dusty conditions) and also to help keep dirt and water (from post ride clean up) away.


I would use normal grease (one of the suggested or another suespension grease) or a bit of Fox WT20 Gold on your finger tips. Fox WT 20 Gold is avery sticky oil, which is excellent to keep things lubricated and helps to keep water and dirt away from the insides. However, you should make sure to wipe off and re-apply the grease regularly, if you lube it externally.

If you send me an e-mail to [email protected] then I can help you out with a wiper exchange.


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

sacki said:


> The REVIVE is simply state of the art and industry leading in terms of friction and smoothness, that is, why the REVIVE will stay our top of the line model.


Thank you for the comprehensive answer. Do you plan to update Revive with travel adjustment in the future?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

No plans for that. The REVIVE has much less clearence between piston and inne tube than REVIVE, so a clip-on solution is not suitable here. It would require a more complicated strip of the internals and it would require a disassembly of pistion and shaft.


----------



## gcann (Jul 12, 2008)

sacki said:


> I would use normal grease (one of the suggested or another suespension grease) or a bit of Fox WT20 Gold on your finger tips. Fox WT 20 Gold is avery sticky oil, which is excellent to keep things lubricated and helps to keep water and dirt away from the insides. However, you should make sure to wipe off and re-apply the grease regularly, if you lube it externally.
> 
> If you send me an e-mail to [email protected] then I can help you out with a wiper exchange.


Thanks!


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

I love the the Triggy. Best stock lever I have tried (of 5 brands).


----------



## AmShred (Sep 18, 2014)

richwales said:


> For anyone interested I have reduced the travel on my 160mm bikeyoke by 20mm. It now tops out at 140mm and allows me to use the bikeyoke in my new frame (which had less insertion depth than previous). A friend of mine fabricated a spacer and it was a relatively straightforward procedure to fit. It's an interference fit so doesn't move on the shaft and works perfectly. If anyone is interested in more details drop me a PM. Cheers


Appreciate if you can elaborate more on this spacer for Revive travel reduction.
Dimensions/material/how to assemble and etc.


----------



## goalieken (Jan 21, 2014)

Hi - 

I need to order a service kit for my revive but I am unsure where the Serial Number is located to order the correct one. 

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

You don't need to know the serial number. You just need to check, whether your wiper has a small metal spring, or not.
The difference is explained on our website in the article description:
https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-service-kit.html


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Serviced one of my posts with the rebuild kit two nights ago...went smooth. And by smooth, I mean it's smooooooooooooth.


----------



## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

sacki said:


> Just a quick not on the comment above.
> You don´t have to take the reset lever apart to access the valve.
> Only if you´ve lost your air adapter, you *CAN* disassemble the reset axle to access the valve *without* the air adapter and the shock pump directly.
> I tried to make it as clear as possible in the manual, and I am sorry, if it is confusing. Here is a copy of the mentioned manual page, where I highlighted the bold "*OR*" with yellow marker:
> ...


I have a Ripmo, and never saw the air adapter when I had the bike assembled at my LBS. I want to remove the reset assembly and check the pressure. I got the 2mm in and removed the set screw that holds the pin that functions to push down on the valve. I have the set screw and the pin out of the assembly. HOW IN THE HELL do I get the actually rod out? The 4mm side just spins, and the other side is round. I'm nervous to try to force it out of there too hard. I tried gently pushing...and it won't push out in either direction.

How do you get it out so there's room to put a shock pump on the top???

I guess I should add that the reason is...the lever won't return completely, and today my post wouldn't stay up as a result. I don't know if it's pressure, needs a new cable, or what. I've had the bike since April, and from the day I got the post it has leaked a substantial amount of oil/grease. I was told that was normal for Bike Yoke, so I haven't worried about it. I will likely send it off for a full service, but I was hoping to at least be able to ride the next few days. I will check the cable as well, and I guess from my reading...it could be the white foam insert. If the pressure and cable don't solve it, then I guess the next step is the LBS for a lower service, and see if replacing the foam and other things will remedy the issue.

Oh...and naturally, I was just bragging about the post this morning before the ride, when some other rider's Reverbs wouldn't work in the cold. Then bam...mine started acting up. I should have known better!


----------



## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

On mine, that barrel marked by the 4mm just pushed out from the 2mm end. If I recall correctly it’s held in place by a couple of o-rings. You removed the 1.5mm set screw you said?


----------



## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Nat said:


> On mine, that barrel marked by the 4mm just pushed out from the 2mm end. If I recall correctly it's held in place by a couple of o-rings. You removed the 1.5mm set screw you said?


Thanks for the reply man! No...the set screw is what had me bumfuzzled, in fact.  I removed the 2mm set screw that holds the pin in place, but there was just enough accrued dirt that I couldn't even see that 1.5mm set screw. I looked closer at the drawing and then grabbed a brush and exposed that set screw, and that allowed me to remove it with no problem.

So...it was at 150. I ran it up to 250, but who knows how much bled out when I removed the pump. I don't like that design. It's so narrow that I literally had to use needle nose pliers to screw the pump connector on, because of how far the connector sits down in there. I realize it's meant for a special adapter, but like me, I bet most people who buy complete bikes never see that special adapter tool. My fear on things like that is that for air to leak out of a closed system, it means there has to be a seal that's going bad, or some cause. OR...it was always at 150 and I just didn't know it, and it was working fine like that.

At any rate, as it turns out...it was the dang cable anyway. It was frayed right in the lever assembly, just enough to make it stick. I couldn't see it the first time I looked at it. I think it was just wear and tear from operation.

NOW...my only concern is whether or not the post has enough air, because it sounded like quite a bit leaked out when I took the pump off, but I've always been told that's just the air from the pump tubing. If it's not...then it may have close to zero air in it, and I'll have to take the whole damn thing apart again, and try it with a different pump that fits on there a little better. My LBS doesn't have that special tool...I asked the owner. He's going to get one ordered, but that's not helping me right now. 

At any rate, we'll see what happens. It seems to be popping up nicely, and isn't sagging under my weight, so I guess it's game on unless I have issues. I just hope they don't crop up 12 miles from my car on a ride!


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> I've always been told that's just the air from the pump tubing.


Ever taken the valve out of a tube? See the spring on it? That is inside virtually every kind of air chamber used with bikes. As soon as air pressure starts pushing out the opposite way and you are no longer depressing the core to keep it open, it slams shut due to the pressure. In other words, it's a one-way-valve or "check-valve". Even basically the same as an oil-line check valve.


----------



## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Can anyone here explain the difference(s) between the Revive and the Divine?


----------



## mtbboy1993 (Apr 6, 2015)

Divine has internal adjustment with spacers(which it comes with), you can reduce the travel.
it's cheaper.
The need for the bleed lever eliminated, the post resets after every full drop so there is no lever like on the Revive.
I think the website shows the differences quite well.
https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/seatpost-revive-185-30-9.html
https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/seatpost-divine-185-30-9.html




Le Duke said:


> Can anyone here explain the difference(s) between the Revive and the Divine?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Just a few posts above your question I do explain it:
https://forums.mtbr.com/components/...s-troubleshooting-1087156-2.html#post14407415


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

^^ legit the revive is. 

been riding my fat bike in snow lately and it has a Garnet and it's ok but a slug compared to the revive.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Hey Guys, please check out this one here:
https://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-divine-185-frame-insertion-1125619.html


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

Do you just want 185 data or 160 as well?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Only 185 for now. Obviously, this is the most critical post lenght. 
We can do a similar thread for the shorte lenghts, if people are intrested. Mostly I get questions about the 185.


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

Well, I've added the bike with the 185. The 160 I have only just fully inserted into a large ibis mojo hd3, so I know it wouldn't take a 185.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

How to remove #51 spring pin 3x10 ?
That pin holds #48 avtuator lever. I want to take it out, clean everything there and regrease.

Can I just lightly hammer it out?

https://forums.mtbr.com/attachments...3414-bikeyoke-revive-revive_exploded_view.jpg


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

So, removed it.
As you may see - surface of 48 is slightly shabby (sorry for bad english). That makes working of dropper lever bit different, no so smooth as at the begining.
I guess slightly sanding it will resolve the "problem"..
I wish I had that actuator lever new right now so I could feel the diference ..


----------



## belcourt (Aug 9, 2011)

*me too*



BmoreKen said:


> You can see about 1mm nubbin is gone
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Did the same thing to mine on the first reset! Too small a cross section for a cheap cast part, along with a stress riser for the o-ring. Come'on guys, this is a rookie mistake on what is otherwise a nice product. Forge it, machine it, or don't sell it.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Sometimes it is better, not not comment but I will still take the risk and do it - and maybe you will think this will come off as rude or arrogant (so please don't get it wrong, I am just explaining the situtation here). ;-)
While I can understand your frustration, and while this little piece is indeed not super strong around the o-ring groove, I can tell you with great probability, that this little lever will cause you zero troubles over years to come - if used and installed properly.
That, what we can see above in the picture is in 99.9% a user mistake. While we do try to consider "mistreatment", when designing our products as much as possible, some parts leave little room for that - so does the quick reset lever.
Personally - and so I can speak for all my riding buddies, too - we have had a single broken lever and also never lost one - OK, we had one broken lever, when my friend forgot to remove in the bike park, and the T-bar lift snapped it off. Hardly I can put this at fault of the lever. 
My Quick rest lever has not been removed in years and stays on the post all the time.

That, what you are seeing in your picture, only happens, if you:
1. Are not careful while inserting and for example insert it crookedly.
or
2. Turn the lever while it is not inserted completely.
If the lever itself was not strong enough for the actual torque, it would shear off at the root of hex, not at the tip, as we cna see it here. The tip of the lever will literally not experience any torque. 
I can say, that we´ve seen and heard of less than 5 cases with such a failure in easily more than 30.000 produced units (one of them was the above mentioned bikepark incident). 
The o-ring is only there to create friction, so that the lever it won't slip out of the hex-slot too easily by itself. That is the only reason for the o-ring.
I agree with you, that it is not the strongest part, but it is simple and effective and once installed and used properly, it shall not cause you any trouble during the life of the post.
If you have an idea for a more efficient and simple replacement, we would definitely think about it.


----------



## belcourt (Aug 9, 2011)

*Thanks for replying*

Yo Sacki,

Thanks for the fast reply and no offense taken. I get where you are coming from having been in your shoes.

1. In your rebuttal, you are making the mistake of assuming all parts are uniform and this is just another case of user error. It is not a design flaw I am arguing, which affects all parts, it's a process issue which affects some parts.

2. Casting is a process with high variability due to random voids and poor grain structure. There are ways to mitigate (material selection, gate locations, type of casting process), but if the cross section of the part is too small there no solving for large deviations in part strength. The majority of your parts may be fine but a percentage will be weak and fail. This is simply the reality of small cast parts.

2. Scope of use - All users reporting a failure here were using the product within its intended scope (other than the chairlift example you mentioned). Designing to this scope needs to account for things being less than a perfect use of the product, or manufacturing variations in the bolt it interfaces with. I broke mine first try in my house on a new dropper, and I know how stuff works. Allen wrenches don't break like that, even when not fully inserted, and that is what this part essentially is. It should be as reliable as what it replaces.

3. Returns - you can't claim user error based on a low returns rate, especially if the part is inexpensive and there is a reliable alternative tool everyone carries that does the same thing. It is reasonable to assume many people won't bother to send it back, or tell you about it. Your failure rate is likely higher than you think.

4. My suggestions for improvement are as follows: 1. change the process to hot forging and some post machining. Part cost will go up but I would pay a lot more for something solid and reliable. 2. Consider a stronger material for the casting process you're using. 3. If 1 and 2 are too expensive, remove the o-ring groove and get rid of that stress riser, put a thin rubber sleeve over the arm (as others have done) to hold it in the bolt head. You will at least eliminate the failure mode which seems to be the most common.

Thanks for reading


----------



## MarinCRO (Jul 31, 2013)

I recently got myself Revive and it's amazingly smooth but what struck me as odd is that the actuation is so light. Should it be like that? I'm using ZTTO remote that's basically the same as Wolftooth ReMote.

That lever had positive action on Giant dropper and before using Fox Transfer, the lever action was tactile and pronounced but on BikeYoke Revive it's very light almost effortless. Should it be like that?


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

Yep. No internal floating piston seal to add resistance.


----------



## MarinCRO (Jul 31, 2013)

I know that and that's why it's so easy to drop and has very little friction but I was asking about the actuation being very light.


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

My New (October) Revive was getting a little sticky last ride. It came on all of a sudden. Checked seat tube clamp Torque, it was correct. Spent 40 minutes doing lower tube service this morning, PERFECTION! Its like butter again. It had been about 140 hours real time, so 100 hour service was overdo on my part. Great product Sacki! This is my 3rd Revive, I am so happy I put a BikeYoke sticker on my frame, free ad for Sacki.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

So happy to read this! 
Enjoy the trails and thank you so much!


----------



## glockrocket17 (Aug 26, 2015)

I ordered my revive max on friday. I can't wait for it to get here. My only other point of reference for a dropper is the bontrager drop line I have that I had good luck with on my fat bike. The revive will be going on a specialized fuse. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

hoolie said:


> a BikeYoke sticker


ehh, wtf, I didn't get my sticker in the box when recieved Revive...
)


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Hey, if anyone is interested in a BikeYoke Revive Max 34.9x125 post, drop me a Private Message! Have to sell because my new frame has a smaller diameter so a shim doesn’t work for me. 

Don’t worry, I’m replacing with a new Revive!


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

Too much pain to scroll through all the posts. Saw at least one other. Post works well until it doesn't.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

I am super sorry to see this.
You say, it is "too much pain to go through all the posts".
Can you tell me what information are you looking for, so I can help you.
Did you already get in touch with your dealer or with one of our distributors, or did you just post the picture here so far?


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

sacki said:


> I am super sorry to see this.
> You say, it is "too much pain to go through all the posts".
> Can you tell me what information are you looking for, so I can help you.
> Did you already get in touch with your dealer or with one of our distributors, or did you just post the picture here so far?


Just happened today. Emailed BTI. I'll wait for a reply tomorrow.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

But what information were you looking for in this thread? You saif it is too much pain to go through all the posts, so you must have been looking for something, right?

To speed things up, you may get in touch with me directly via email:
[email protected]
Every single warranty request goes over my table, so it will speed things up, if you contact me directly. I´ll sort the rest BTI.

Cheers
Sacki


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

sacki said:


> But what information were you looking for in this thread? You saif it is too much pain to go through all the posts, so you must have been looking for something, right?
> 
> To speed things up, you may get in touch with me directly via email:
> [email protected]
> ...


Just looking to determine if this is a common issue with this post. I am a retailer. I have recommended this post for as long as I have used it. I will not be putting another one on my bike. Ice, motrin and a double IPA have eased the pain for now.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Again, I am sorry to see this. I can only offer my help to speed things up, but of course it is up to you, how you want to handle this from your side. 
This is not the first time we see this, but it is not a common issue with this post.
Do you have more pictures or more information you can share?
For example your weight, your height, frame model and size?
Do you also have a side view picture of the broken upper piece with the saddle?


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

sacki said:


> Again, I am sorry to see this. I can only offer my help to speed things up, but of course it is up to you, how you want to handle this from your side.
> This is not the first time we see this, but it is not a common issue with this post.
> Do you have more pictures or more information you can share?
> For example your weight, your height, frame model and size?
> Do you also have a side view picture of the broken upper piece with the saddle?


5'9" 200ish lbs. Specialized Stumpjumper size medium. I'll take more pictures tomorrow.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Cool, much appreciated! And as I said, it would speed things up, if you shot me an e-mail directly.
Which Stumpjumper model are we looking at? There have been dozens of different models over the course of the past couple of years.


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Bike n Gear, Here is my opinion after shearing 2 heads off just like you. One had many 100's of hours, the other a few hundred hrs. I am concerned that this is a design flaw. Sacki has potentially addressed this going forward with a One Piece top tube (not bonded). Wether or not he wants to recall them is his business. I WILL SUPPORT REVIVE !!! Warranty has been great for me. It is the first problem free dropper ever invented. I have had 5 or 6 brands. Even after your head sheared off, the post works flawlessly. Its the best mechanical design there is, Period. We need to support Sacki. Sacki needs to improve his product as it matures. I know the new FOX Transfer is doing well, but their maintenance schedule is stupid. I would need to spend $200 with FOX service, every 4 months with the hours I pile onto a bike. Revive is easily serviced at home and small parts are economical. We want Sacki to succeedd. This is a great product. Revive 1st generation has one weakness, weak head design. All the other manufacturers 1st generation post SUCKED! ( FOX DOSS, Crankbrothers, KS LEV, Specialized Black Light, and especially that POS Rockshox Reverb bleed nightmare).Oh yeah, my Thomson dropper failed twice in 6 months and I shipped from CA to GA before they finally replaced it (ironically, that post has been working great for 6 yrs now, no service, but I barely use that bike). I support Revive, I want it to be stronger too.


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

hoolie said:


> Bike n Gear, Here is my opinion after shearing 2 heads off just like you. One had many 100's of hours, the other a few hundred hrs. I am concerned that this is a design flaw. Sacki has potentially addressed this going forward with a One Piece top tube (not bonded). Wether or not he wants to recall them is his business. I WILL SUPPORT REVIVE !!! Warranty has been great for me. It is the first problem free dropper ever invented. I have had 5 or 6 brands. Even after your head sheared off, the post works flawlessly. Its the best mechanical design there is, Period. We need to support Sacki. Sacki needs to improve his product as it matures. I know the new FOX Transfer is doing well, but their maintenance schedule is stupid. I would need to spend $200 with FOX service, every 4 months with the hours I pile onto a bike. Revive is easily serviced at home and small parts are economical. We want Sacki to succeedd. This is a great product. Revive 1st generation has one weakness, weak head design. All the other manufacturers 1st generation post SUCKED! ( FOX DOSS, Crankbrothers, KS LEV, Specialized Black Light, and especially that POS Rockshox Reverb bleed nightmare).Oh yeah, my Thomson dropper failed twice in 6 months and I shipped from CA to GA before they finally replaced it (ironically, that post has been working great for 6 yrs now, no service, but I barely use that bike). I support Revive, I want it to be stronger too.


You have more willpower than me. If you saw what my nuts look like right now I can't imagine you'd want to try another one of these. No argument that the mechanics of the post are great.


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

sacki said:


> Cool, much appreciated! And as I said, it would speed things up, if you shot me an e-mail directly.
> Which Stumpjumper model are we looking at? There have been dozens of different models over the course of the past couple of years.


It's a 2019. Post has about 400 miles of use since July.


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

What size post, diameter and travel?


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

Jayem said:


> What size post, diameter and travel?


30.9, 160mm travel 467mm length.


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

Got some new pictures, but NSFW. Off to the ER. This should be fun.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

The failure we can see above has happenend before. 
However, the failure seen above has never (zero times) happened during any bench testing, neither has it happened on any of the early prototyping posts, neither has it happened on one of the hundreds of posts that have been ridden by our sponsored riders. 
What we found out is, that most of the failed posts (not all of them though) show some - I'd like to call them - "abnormalities". 
Those "abnormalities" include:


As Hoolie mentioned, he apparently already broke 2 posts. In total, we have three customers, who already broke more than one post. One of them already broke 3 posts. So it is not unlikely, that those customers are doing something differently than others. It might have to do with riding style, frame design, saddle adjustment, ...)
We don´t know for sure, as we don´t know 100% how they are being treated.


One customer, who broke a post wrote in his e-mail, that he does not blame the post, as he has broken rigid (non telescopic) posts before, and that he is (quote) "lazy" as he stays seated most of time, even when going downhill.


Some other customers had the lower clamp installed in reverse (backside front)


Some other customers had the upper clamp installed in reverse.


Some other customers had the saddle slammed all the way back, including settings, that exceeded the maximum marks on the saddle rails. Looking at the pictures above, the saddle seems to be set almost all the way back, too. I can´t see it very clearly, though.
That is, why I am asking for more pictures.

That being said, for most of the posts which have failed, we have a clue, what might have lead to the failure. In other cases, we don´t know. 
It includes fails, that occured on posts, which have been in use for almost 3 years, and it has occured on posts, that have been only a couple of months old.
We talked to all customers and gathered feedback and we also took care of proper replacement.
Having produced over 40,000 REVIVEs until now, the number of all structural fails is extremely low, yet, we take every failure - be it structural or hydraulic or mechanic - very seriously.

Call it a design flaw, if you wish. I would call a design flaw something, which is reproduceable and happens very frequently. This is not the case here.

Yet, we have adressed this issue and a different design will be implemented in series production during a running change.
We have also addressed other things in previous revisions of our REVIVE (for example fully hard anodized pin grooves in the upper tube), different saddle bolts, different lower bushings, different wipers. 
We made these changes, not because we had to, and most of the customers won´t even notice the difference. But some customers, who did have troubles, will notice and that is our ultimate goal: Adressing and eliminating every failure, that we have seen. It is not possible to foresee every failure or abuse. But once they've happend, we can try to address them and find a solution.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

I don´t get it, sorry.
What is NSFW and what does "Off to the ER" mean?

P.S. The Stumpjumper is really a 2019 model? It does not look like a 34.9 seattube and also the linkange on the 2019 models is different.


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

My seat might be pushed back, but I've never bent a seat rail. Haven't broken a seatpost in 30+ years of riding. As a 57 year old with some pulmonary issues I definitely sit as much as possible, but not on downhills.


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

I have too many bikes. it's a 2018 right before the new design.

Off the the ER means I woke up with my manhood swollen and purple with my testicles twice the size of normal. Not looking forward to whatever procedure will be required to correct that. Hence the photos being NSFW. If you'd like I can send you a copy.

I understand how much you believe in your product and how well it works mechanically. I just couldn't do this to myself again.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

BIke N Gear said:


> My seat might be pushed back, but I've never bent a seat rail. Haven't broken a seatpost in 30+ years of riding. As a 57 year old with some pulmonary issues I definitely sit as much as possible, but not on downhills.


Not bending a seat rail does not mean, that you don´t introduce much more load into the post, when slammin the saddle all the way back. The leverage on the post head increases extensively, the more you adjust the saddle to the back. 
But I have the feeling, that I am not helping here anymore. I am not here, trying to point out any mistakes or abuse or finding excuses. 
I am just here to help and I am sorry for what has happened. I am just not sure, how I can help you, or if you even want help. I have been replying to your post and I am not really sure, what to do from here, as you said you want to go through BTI.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Actually I was not asking for pictures of yourself or any injuries, that would be totally inappropriate. I have no reason of not trusting in your words. I was not even aware of your injuries, when I asked that. I was more like asking for pictures of the bike and the saddle setup, to find out more about the installation.
Anyway, I hopw you'll be fine, soon, and if you want to report back or share more technical, pictures here or via e-mail, I´d be happy to see.


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)




----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

BIke N Gear said:


> View attachment 1316197
> 
> View attachment 1316201
> 
> View attachment 1316203


I hope you were release out of ER without too much bad news.
I don't know, how else to express my sympathy, I just hope everything will be fine, soon.
Looking at the pictures, the upper saddle clamp seems to be in reverse, too. Can you please send a more close-up picture of this one? I am not 100% sure.


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

Have appointment with Urologist later today.


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

One thing that might be relevant. For the first month or so of use, I couldn't get the seat to stop creaking.

This was the suggestion by BTI:

_I'm not sure if Christian already responded to you but here are some suggestions from the manufacturer:

Try to loosen the bolts, and then re-tighten, while holding the upper clamp as far back as possible to ensure the bolt are not touching the holes.
When tightening, the upper clamp can be clamped in several positions, depending on which bolt you tighten first. So the position can be slightly forward or slightly to the rear. Better is to have it to the rear.
Another option is using carbon/friction paste or grease on the rails and on the clamps and bolts.

I hope this helps. Please let us know if you continue to have issues._


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

That suggestion from BTI is just to make sure, that the bolts are clear and not touch the thru holes on the post head (which could then cause creaking). Having the upper clamp positioned more to the rear will give more clearence for the bolts on the front side of the through holes.
But that is not what I actually meant.
What I am talking about is, that you upper clamp is reversed.
On page #7 in the manual of your REVIVE you can see the orientation of the clamps.
You upper clamp faces backside front, which is to be avoided.

But more important now for me is to know about your well being. I am a little confused right now. You said earlier today, you were off to the ER. What did they say?


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

sacki said:


> That suggestion from BTI is just to make sure, that the bolts are clear and not touch the thru holes on the post head (which could then cause creaking). Having the upper clamp positioned more to the rear will give more clearence for the bolts on the front side of the through holes.
> But that is not what I actually meant.
> What I am talking about is, that you upper clamp is reversed.
> On page #7 in the manual of your REVIVE you can see the orientation of the clamps.
> ...


I spoke to my Dr while driving to the ER. I was told I was better off going to a Urologist than waiting all day at the ER. Have an appointment soon.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Great, now every creak/shift I feel is going to spook me


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

BIke N Gear said:


> I spoke to my Dr while driving to the ER. I was told I was better off going to a Urologist than waiting all day at the ER. Have an appointment soon.


Hey, how are you doing? I hope you feel better already!


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

sacki said:


> Hey, how are you doing? I hope you feel better already!


Sad to say, it's going to be a while before I can ride again. And the Dr. was nice enough to warn me that as bad as it looks right now, it will get worse before it gets better.


----------



## woodsroamer (Jan 13, 2016)

What's the difference between V1 and V2 besides wipers with and without spring?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

You mean regarding the service kit? 
The difference in the service kit is only the wiper. All other parts are same or compatible.


----------



## woodsroamer (Jan 13, 2016)

No, actual dropperpost. I'm getting a dropper post, and I think I'm getting yours. When I searched online, I found a Revive with a dust wiper without spring for cheaper, and one with more expensive. I was wondering about what's the difference between those two besides spring on dust wipers.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Over the course of time, we´ve implemented several minour updates, which include wipers, upper saddle clamps, saddle bolts, Microvalve, foam ring, Quick Reset lever. Those are all monto updated, which you might not even notice, yet we always try to make our posts better bit by bit. If you are aiming for one without the spring on the wiper, then you may not have the Microvalve. Microvalve will make it harder for air to get into the lockout-chamber, hence mayking it less likely to require using the reset function. 
Howevr, all of these are basically retrofitable, so a service center could always upgrade to the latest version, during a full service.


----------



## woodsroamer (Jan 13, 2016)

This is great. Thanks for the detailed info. I'll get V2.



sacki said:


> Over the course of time, we´ve implemented several minour updates, which include wipers, upper saddle clamps, saddle bolts, Microvalve, foam ring, Quick Reset lever. Those are all monto updated, which you might not even notice, yet we always try to make our posts better bit by bit. If you are aiming for one without the spring on the wiper, then you may not have the Microvalve. Microvalve will make it harder for air to get into the lockout-chamber, hence mayking it less likely to require using the reset function.
> Howevr, all of these are basically retrofitable, so a service center could always upgrade to the latest version, during a full service.


----------



## MarinCRO (Jul 31, 2013)

I have a small issue with my 160mm Revive. I'm using ZTTO lever with clamp-on-lever cable so the cable on the Revive is not 100% fit but it seems to work well.
Anyway, the issue is that sometimes there's a "notch" when pressing the remote. It has nothing to do with the remote itself, but it seems like the seatpost doesn't drop smoothly if I push it down towards the rear of the saddle. If I push the middle or the nose of the saddle it will drop easily without this notchy issue while activating.


----------



## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

It needs maintenance.


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

One of mine is feeling a little rough so though it's about time it got a little TLC as I have a service kit in stock.

This leads to a couple if questions.
1. My service kit comes with a split nylon bush for the lower bearing, but the post comes with a nylon one piece cup. Looks like it needs an aluminium washer to convert between the two. Which is the newer version and if it's the split bush, how do I order the washer?

2. The reason I reached for the service kit was because the brass pins are bent. Then I noticed that the pins in the service kit are also bent. I'm really struggling to theorise how this could happen during normal use. Are they meant to have a slight bend?

Testament to how good these things are as though as this is the first time I've serviced any of them.


----------



## MarinCRO (Jul 31, 2013)

arnea said:


> It needs maintenance.


I don't think that's the case. It's barely used. The thing is that sometimes if there's a lot of pressure on the rear of the saddle (such as sitting down with all my weight) it can manifest with this "notch" that can be felt on the lever. It doesn't cause problems with dropper action, it's smooth as ever. If I push the saddle down by the rear of the saddle, it requires far more force than when pushing on the mid or nose of the saddle.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

MarinCRO said:


> . If I push the saddle down by the rear of the saddle, it requires far more force than when pushing on the mid or nose of the saddle.


+1

No maintenance will help (done it), it's just like that.

P.s. Bike giant reign advanced 2016
Size L
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/reign-advanced-27dot5-1-2016

Seat tube 73°
Revive is inserted almost fully, jus 2-3 cm till collar fron top of seat tube.


----------



## D1PHAM (Sep 15, 2008)

Just purchased a 185MM Revive. Have a couple of rides on it and I've noticed there is still quite a lot of oil build up on the top of the sanction post ride. Is this normal as part of the break in period? 

Thanks in advance,
Dennis


----------



## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Mine did that too, and while I was worried something might be amiss, it has worked flawlessly now for 9 months....a record for dropper posts for me! It was a white grease and oil that oozed out It was bad enough that it would come out of the frame hole for the cable at the bottom, coat the frame, and collect dirt there. 

I was told by another Revive owner that theirs did that too, and after awhile it stopped. Mine did the same, so my guess is they take the "there's never too much grease" appraoch to start, and it's just a matter of keeping it wiped down more often in the outset. Mine stopped oozing, but still works just as good as it did the day I got it. 

One other thing...I don't think they pressure them up much from the factory. I got curious when my friends' posts came up quite a bit faster, so I added air to mine....but I'm still well under the recommended max. That sped it up A LOT, and now it's pretty well instantaneous. So...if you ever have a reason to have the saddle off, AND YOU KEPT THE TOOL YOU NEED, you may want to add some air just to get it working crisp and fast if yours is slow.


----------



## D1PHAM (Sep 15, 2008)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> Mine did that too, and while I was worried something might be amiss, it has worked flawlessly now for 9 months....a record for dropper posts for me! It was a white grease and oil that oozed out It was bad enough that it would come out of the frame hole for the cable at the bottom, coat the frame, and collect dirt there.
> 
> I was told by another Revive owner that theirs did that too, and after awhile it stopped. Mine did the same, so my guess is they take the "there's never too much grease" appraoch to start, and it's just a matter of keeping it wiped down more often in the outset. Mine stopped oozing, but still works just as good as it did the day I got it.
> 
> One other thing...I don't think they pressure them up much from the factory. I got curious when my friends' posts came up quite a bit faster, so I added air to mine....but I'm still well under the recommended max. That sped it up A LOT, and now it's pretty well instantaneous. So...if you ever have a reason to have the saddle off, AND YOU KEPT THE TOOL YOU NEED, you may want to add some air just to get it working crisp and fast if yours is slow.


Thanks for the quick reply. Which tool are you taking about? Crap, going to look through my parts bag. 

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## glockrocket17 (Aug 26, 2015)

The adapter you need looks like this.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## FuelForThought (Jan 12, 2004)

Hello Sacki!

I have had a Bikeyoke Divine SL on my Scott Scale for about a year and it is phenomenal for the riding I do (XC). Unfortunately, the action became very sticky on my last ride. It gets very hard to press down and does not extend back without me pulling, in particular when I compress and extend the dropper repeatedly in quick succession. The action of the dropper feels like there is a lot of resistance.

I released the torque on the seat clamp to 3N.m and the problem persists.

I cannot tell the number of hours but I have ridden 1300km on the post. Are the symptoms indicative of a need to service the post using the 100 h service kit?


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

You've checked the seat collar. If say now check the cable and the air pressure. They're okay, then irrespective of the time or the miles, the next step is a slider service.


----------



## christiancaron (Jan 7, 2018)

Purchased a Revive at the beginning of summer 2019. Worked well all summer long. Purchased a couple of 100 hours service kits in the Fall to do some maintenance in the winter. Now's the time, but the post is stuck and won't move down (by pushing the trigger and sitting on the seat). Thought it could be a faulty cable, so removed the seatpost. I could remove the actuator (after removing the C ring) because it was not tightened to specs. But then nothing, the post won't slide inside the outer tube, it seems to be stuck in place. Any tricks to free it up?


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Wasn't it stored in cold environment and when warmed up, oil expanded and the post can't move down (trigger can't open the valve due to excessive oil pressure inside)?


----------



## christiancaron (Jan 7, 2018)

PeterG said:


> Wasn't it stored in cold environment and when warmed up, oil expanded and the post can't move down (trigger can't open the valve due to excessive oil pressure inside)?


No, the bike was actually dismantled in my basement the next day the season was over (mid-November). I had to ship the rear triangle for a warranty issue. So the bike was sitting upright for the whole time in the basement at room temperature. The actuator works (e.g. I can either pull on it or simply push the rod inside with the actuator removed). When activated, the post doesn't move. When the C-ring is removed, the inner post should slide in the outer one, but it doesn't either.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

sacki said:


> That suggestion from BTI is just to make sure, that the bolts are clear and not touch the thru holes on the post head (which could then cause creaking). Having the upper clamp positioned more to the rear will give more clearence for the bolts on the front side of the through holes.
> But that is not what I actually meant.
> What I am talking about is, that you upper clamp is reversed.
> On page #7 in the manual of your REVIVE you can see the orientation of the clamps.
> ...


So gotta make sure my clamp (s) are not reversed after I do my rebuild. Time to dig up the manual to ensure proper orientation. Do not want sore balls from anything but a roshambo tournament.


----------



## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

I’m experiencing an issue with my 185mm revive. There is a tiny bit of vertical play in the fork regardless of where it is in its travel. There’s about a mm of play as the saddle is weighted/unweighted which I can’t really feel as much as I can hear by way of an audible clicking sound. Any thoughts as to what the issue may be?


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

No issue, please read the 1st (manufacturer's) post carefully, especially the part "My REVIVE sags a bit under heavy load".


----------



## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

PeterG said:


> No issue, please read the 1st (manufacturer's) post carefully, especially the part "My REVIVE sags a bit under heavy load".


Fair enough. I jumped to the end of this thread because I have two 185mm revives. The new one behaves in the way described in my previous post. The older unit is flawless... which is what made me think it could be addressed. If there's nothing that can be done to remedy it, that's a disappointment because the clicking sound drives me batty.

I should mention that I also had two 160mm travel units before the 185mm travel units that I have now. They too were flawless. My expectations are shaped entirely by the past experience with the same product.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

incubus said:


> I should mention that I also had two 160mm travel units before the 185mm travel units that I have now. They too were flawless. My expectations are shaped entirely by the past experience with the same product.


I feel your pain. I had a 34.9 BY Revive Max on my Fuse, and it was the best post I have EVER had or used. Fast forward to my new frame that necessitated a 31.6 post, which I happily sprung for another BY Revive. Totally disappointed, it's like it was made by someone else. No matter what saddle I put on it, it creaks. Return action not as fast or smooth. I gave up and put the $200 SDG Tellis I had hanging around back on and it has been flawless. Sure, it takes more force to push down and it doesn't pop up like my previous BY post did, but it is silent and doesn't cause me to be frustrated throughout my entire ride with the constant creaking noise.

I've sent a few emails to Sacki about it, no response.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

incubus said:


> Fair enough. I jumped to the end of this thread because I have two 185mm revives. The new one behaves in the way described in my previous post. The older unit is flawless... which is what made me think it could be addressed. If there's nothing that can be done to remedy it, that's a disappointment because the clicking sound drives me batty.
> 
> I should mention that I also had two 160mm travel units before the 185mm travel units that I have now. They too were flawless. My expectations are shaped entirely by the past experience with the same product.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I see. Maybe it needs just few extra drops of oil in the cartridge (just a guess).


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

@blaklabl: Sorry to hear about your disappointment with one of our droppers. Creaking usually comes from the saddle/clamp/bolt interface and should be an easy fix. 
I can not remember any (and surely not a few) e-mails from you, that I did not answer. Can you tell me, when you sent those, so I can check in my mailbox? I am really curious, as I usually reply to all customer mails within a very reasonable time frame. In very rare cases, an e-mail might get buried, but I can´t imagine this happened with several e-mails from the same person.


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

I emailed Sacki a month of so back and was a bit annoyed at not getting a reply but thought it might be down to the whole pandemic issue.

Anyway, decided to check when I'd sent it and try again. Checked my sent items and found I'd not sent it after all and felt a bit silly.

Rewrote the email I thought I'd written originally and hit send. Had a within about 4 hours which I've found to be pretty typical, although I have the advantage of being in the same time zone.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

I believe I know what clicking sound incubus is talking about. It is something we have not yet completely figured out, what it is, but we hear of it once in a while and I've also hade two of them in my hands already. The 1mm play is not the "normal" one, which is very firm. The play feels more "mechanical". We believe, it comes from added up tolerances of o-ring seats in combination with o-ring tolerances. So the o-rings are a little too small, the glands are a little too wide and so the whole package can slightly move. Trapped air in the o-ring seat, may contribute to the very light play. I was able to reduce the play by following procedure:
Drop the post about half way and leave it there for a while. Then reset the post from there very qickly. If necessary repeat. After that, the post had less play and worked fairly normal. If the post still has a loud clicking sound, then maybe you should give it to one of our service centers for a warranty service. They can have a look at it and give it a full rebuild with new seals and pistons, if necesary. But please shoot me an e-mail before you'd send it out, so I can let them know. Since that is a very rare issue, I want to explain to them first.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

sacki said:


> @blaklabl: Sorry to hear about your disappointment with one of our droppers. Creaking usually comes from the saddle/clamp/bolt interface and should be an easy fix.
> I can not remember any (and surely not a few) e-mails from you, that I did not answer. Can you tell me, when you sent those, so I can check in my mailbox? I am really curious, as I usually reply to all customer mails within a very reasonable time frame. In very rare cases, an e-mail might get buried, but I can´t imagine this happened with several e-mails from the same person.


I just forwarded all 3 emails I sent you back to you. Hopefully you'll read them this time and can be bothered to possibly provide some guidance.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> I just forwarded all 3 emails I sent you back to you. Hopefully you'll read them this time and can be bothered to possibly provide some guidance.


Hi Blaklabl, thanks for the resent mail, but it was actually not necessary.
You had sent me this e-mail on March 6 and I replied on March 7.
Here is a screenshot of your e-mail and my reply.










I have also replied to your mail from today already and forwarded the other (original) reply to you as well. Did you not get it?

P.S.
I did not get any other mails from you after that in March. Also today you just sent me one e-mail and not three of them.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

sacki said:


> Hi Blaklabl, thanks for the resent mail, but it was actually not necessary.
> You had sent me this e-mail on March 6 and I replied on March 7.
> Here is a screenshot of your e-mail and my reply.
> 
> ...


I have received NOTHING from you since a response email about the Sagma on 12/30/2019. Including the email you say you sent on the 7th, as well as the response you say you sent today. NOTHING.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Hi Eric,

I am not sure, what to say to this. I didn´t get any failure report. If I do, I normally send again, and if that didn´t work either, I normally try to get in touch via phone or any other way, if I have other contact information. 
I am not sure, what happened, but since you are writing from a company adress, maybe you can check with your IT guy, if there is some sort of spam filter where it coudl have been intercepted.
All I said is, that I am pretty positive, that I do respond to e-mails very reliably. The fact, that you did not receive the e-mail is an unfortunate event, that I could not now.
The fact that you are pissed is understandable, but nevertheless it is not my fault. Before blaming or openly discrediting someone, you should give the one the chance to explain himself. You did get reply from me on the other e-mail on the saddle last year, so why would I not reply to your other mails? 
We do have a phone number, we do have facebook, we have instagram and we also have plenty of other ways to get in touch with us (for the US there is BTI, Dirtlabs, Performanceshocks). Also we have other e-mail adresses for BikeYoke headquarter mentioned on our website. Did you never consider trying another mail, if you donßt get reply from me?
I am not trying to find excuses, but you should maybe consider, that that what happened with you is a unfortunate event, that happened due to events, which neither you nor I have any influence on. An e-mail which was sent did not get delivered. These things can happen.
I am replying to about 1100 mails per month personally and if my mails would not get delivered on a regular basis, I believe I would know very soon. 
I don' t want to argue here anymore, it just does not make sense. I am not blaming you for aynthing, but just don´t blame me, OK?
I am here to help an I help wherever I can. 
right now, I have received another two mails today (one starting with "finally the 3rd...", and the the other one starting with starting with "I don´t intend to...")
So in total I have received 3 e-mails today from you.
I am going to reply to you now, and in case you should not receive any e-mail, please try to send the mails from another mail address or give me an alternaitve e-mail address, where I can reply to.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

sacki said:


> I am going to reply to you now, and in case you should not receive any e-mail, please try to send the mails from another mail address or give me an alternaitve e-mail address, where I can reply to.


I sent you an alternate email address already. Guess you didn't get that either. Check your pm here.


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

blaklabl said:


> I sent you an alternate email address already. Guess you didn't get that either. Check your pm here.


do whatcha want

but dissin Sacki ain't cool man.....

he's is more responsive than nearly anyone at any manufacturer

it's likely email issues/blocks/filters outside both your control...


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

This^ +1


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

X1000. Sacki was over the top easy to deal with and more than fair. I get the sense even now he truly wants to help in a professional manner. 

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

Sacki, Share blaklabl's email address with us and we can test it for you. 

Yes, I'm joking.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Haha, good one.
I sent the mail to both his adresses.
He confirmed he did get my email on his private address, but he still failed to receive on his work address.
So we´re working on a solution for his dropper issue now.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

sacki said:


> Haha, good one.
> I sent the mail to both his adresses.
> He confirmed he did get my email on his private address, but he still failed to receive on his work address.
> So we´re working on a solution for his dropper issue now.


Good to know that you support dropper issues as well as doing IT support for external clients.

My internet access at home is periodically running slow. What can be done?

Seriously though, Thank You Sacki for all the support you provide us. It is greatly appreciated.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Look, I know its funny for all you guys, but the bottom line is I sent emails and didn't get a response from Sacki, and he sent responses that I apparently never got. So it is what it is.


----------



## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

blaklabl said:


> Look, I know its funny for all you guys, but the bottom line is I sent emails and didn't get a response from Sacki, and he sent responses that I apparently never got. So it is what it is.


Thhhhiiiiis close to an apology but couldn't quite make it all the way could you, blaklabl. I don't often neg rep people here but your lousy attitude within this thread sure leaves me tempted in this case.

You were way off base. Stand up. Own it. If the infraction happened in public, then apologize in public. sacki's due.
=sParty


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Sparticus said:


> Thhhhiiiiis close to an apology but couldn't quite make it all the way could you, blaklabl. I don't often neg rep people here but your lousy attitude within this thread sure leaves me tempted in this case.
> 
> You were way off base. Stand up. Own it. If the infraction happened in public, then apologize in public. sacki's due.
> =sParty


Knock yourself out, killer. I know you consider yourself the godfather of all that is right and holy in MTBR-land, so go ahead and double-neg me if you can.

I'm not apologizing in public or in private, nor do I expect (or ask) Sacki to. We both communicated in good faith and neither received each other's messages for whatever reason, so it is what it is. You do understand that concept, right? I'm not apologizing because he didn't get an email I sent (which I can prove I sent), and he's not apologizing for me not getting his response (which he can prove he sent). No matter how cool and helpful Sacki is, it doesn't make me unconditionally in the wrong, no matter how bad several of you want me to be.

We'll move on, I'll look forward to your negative reps & associated comments.


----------



## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

blaklabl said:


> Knock yourself out, killer. I know you consider yourself the godfather of all that is right and holy in MTBR-land, so go ahead and double-neg me if you can.
> 
> I'm not apologizing in public or in private, nor do I expect (or ask) Sacki to. We both communicated in good faith and neither received each other's messages for whatever reason, so it is what it is. You do understand that concept, right? I'm not apologizing because he didn't get an email I sent (which I can prove I sent), and he's not apologizing for me not getting his response (which he can prove he sent). No matter how cool and helpful Sacki is, it doesn't make me unconditionally in the wrong, no matter how bad several of you want me to be.
> 
> We'll move on, I'll look forward to your negative reps & associated comments.


The only thing I regret is posting my knee jerk response at all. While my feelings haven't changed, I just wish I'd stayed out. But I didn't. For that *I* apologize. Thought I was smarter...
=sParty


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Guzys, I appreciate all your sympathy. 
But please, can we let it be for now? 
This is part of the business for me. It's very nice most of the times. It can be hard some other times. 
I am sure Blaklabl didn´t mean to come off rude or wanted to kick off a big discussion.
I did just try to defend mysef, but I could have also responded in a more demure way.
I am just not that way. My business is always also a personal thing for me, and it will always be.


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

If i had to buy a dropper post today, I would buy a 3rd Bikeyoke Revive in 3 seconds flat.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

sacki said:


> Guzys, I appreciate all your sympathy.
> But please, can we let it be for now?
> This is part of the business for me. It's very nice most of the times. It can be hard some other times.
> I am sure Blaklabl didn´t mean to come off rude or wanted to kick off a big discussion.
> ...


Thank you for that Sacki, and you're correct I didn't try to come off rude but that's the internet for you. It's also a testament to your customer service and "taking it personally" that has led to such a rabid following for BY droppers. In retrospect, you had always answered my emails promptly before and I should have known something was amiss and it wasn't intentional. I'm sorry for jumping to that conclusion.

And just so the peanut gallery can continue on with their lives, Sacki and I have connected and are on the way to addressing the issue with my post. It's all good, and I'm sure in the end the result will be a post as smooth and bulletproof as my beloved BikeYoke Revive 34.9 MAX post. Still the best dropper I have ever used!


----------



## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

It surprises me that we still have these issues with email. The [email protected] email addresses seem to be the worst at going into nowhere, or not getting frequently checked. 

I'm currently trying to contact a company through one of these info email addresses. So far 3 emails have gone unanswered. If I were a business owner, I'd be pissed. I'm interested in the service this company can provide, so I'll pick up the phone and give them a call, but typically, I'd just give up.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Yup. Best way to contact someone is to use carrier pigeons..


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

blaklabl said:


> Thank you for that Sacki, and you're correct I didn't try to come off rude but that's the internet for you.


you sure are quick to spread neg reps though....


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

127.0.0.1 said:


> you sure are quick to spread neg reps though....


Just as you're quick to jump on someone who doesn't agree with you....


----------



## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Sacki. I read through the thread hoping to find someone with the same concern. I have had my 185 Revive for almost a year now. It has worked flawlessly, other than my frustration with adding air and not having the adapter....I digress. Worked through that...all was good. 

On my last few rides, I noticed it being "spongy" or "saggy" at the top (not firm at the top), like my Reverb's did perpetually between warranty replacements. I know your post has the release that is supposed to "reset" it to sit firm at the top, and I've read the manual, done the procedure meticulously a few times now, AFTER waiting a few minutes between attempts to 'let the oil settle), and the post is still "springy" or "spongy" feeling. It's well over 1-3mm. 

What's odd is, on one attempt it will be a little better, and on the next it may be worse...doing the same exact procedure. I've had it vary from 1/4 inch to a full inch of "sag." 

Am I missing something? 

- I put the 4mm allen key in, and turned it clockwise until it stopped. 

- I push the post down all the way WITHOUT using the trigger, and let the key go back CCW to "close" or whatever that position is called once at the bottom of the travel. 

- I let go of the seat and it stays all the way down. 

- I push the actuation lever and it springs to the top like always...quickly. 

- I push down on the seat, and the "sponginess" persists. 


Is there a trick I'm missing, or is this indicative of the post needing a full service? The lower only 100 hour service kit wouldn't seem to be the answer since it doesn't even require letting the air out of the post. 

I'm all ears....


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

The steps you describe sound correct and this should solve the "sponginess".
Here is a video:





Since you have also sent me an e-mail, I will now go an reply to that one, as I don't think it makes sense to write everyting twice. I just didn´t want to leave oyur post here unanswered.


----------



## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Thanks for your response Sacki. I also got your email, and per your request, I have sent short videos illustrating the issue and performing the reset function. I wanted to make sure everyone on this thread knows Sacki responded VERY quickly, and concisely, and we're working through the issue. I don't know the final resolution, but if it's something usable for the forum I will post it here.


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

.......I didn´t want to leave oyur post here unanswered.[/QUOTE]

Classic Ironic German humor, in a seatpost forum. We love you Sacki.


----------



## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

I felt it is appropriate to let everyone know that I am VERY impressed with how BikeYoke and their US service arm, BTI, handled my issue with the Revive. There is always a mixed bag of responses and attention to detail within the bike industry, so when someone does a great job, they deserve recognition. 

They set up my return ticket with very thorough information, and I shipped the post out. 
They received my post, let me know it was in-house and in the queue. They performed the service on it, which I'm assuming was something that failed that shouldn't have, because it was covered under warranty, and shipped it back with a very short turnaround. They told me when it was shipped back out to me, with the tracking link, and it came right on time for me to have it for this long weekend. 

THEY NAILED IT!! Very smooth, no surpises, and very responsive. They won my business for dropper posts, and I will make sure to let everyone know how well that went. I have had the complete opposite response on dropper posts in the past, so this was a refreshing change. Cheers to you Sacki, Pete, and Kane!


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

As for replacing old lower stanchion bushing #41 and lower stanchion bushing washer #42 with new lower bushing (IGUS) #57 - what was the reason to apply that new type of bushing?
I'm asking cause "old" washer is metall, new one is plastic.. You know .. We like metall.. )

https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-service-kit.html


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

The reason is simple:
We teamed up with IGUS and make a custom mold for this bushing.
This allows more precise tolerances and easier assembly.
The metal washer did not have any function besides keeping the teflon glide ring in place, so no woerries about making this things from IGUS material.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Is it possible to buy a "REVIVE upper tube" #11 ? I don't see it in Spare parts...


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

This is possible, but you'd have to go through one of our service centers. We do not have all spares in our webshop, especially, if the might be compatibility isses.
But we can get you any part you need, if neccessary.
If you shoot me an e-mail, I can get you sorted. Please also send me a photo of the lower tube with the serial number, so I can check if the tubes are compatible or if you also need a new REVIVE unit.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Oh, no no, mine is fine. I was just asking out of curiosity after not seeing it among lot of other spare parts.
Compatibility issues? I guees all uppers are the same for - 30.9, 160 Revive...

P.S. Well, I got some tiny scratch, so maybe in far far future I'll want to swap upper tube.
P.P.S. I can easily do it by myself, so I just need spare part, not service center. 
P.P.P.S By the way, where is that serial number placed on upper tube?


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

No serial number on the upper tube. It is on the lower tube.

Not all upper tubes are same. If I remember correctly, we made a change on the RESET unit housing (#19 on the explosion drawing) in 2018 and this also require a change in the upper tube machining.
Besides this, all other internal parts are compatible with each other from day 1 until now.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

170900068


----------



## somnambulant (Jan 6, 2008)

Well, at the end (thankfully) of my first lap at my local this morning before work I sat on my seat and it rotated under my butt. I didn't realize I had a new-fangled RotationPost! Well, following the youtube lower tube service video, I just pulled it apart for the first time (MY first time, supposedly my LBS serviced it once) to find things kind of dirty inside, and to my surprise the inner circlip at the cartridge sealhead seems to have disintegrated. It was in several pieces. I guess this allowed the guiding pins to drop out and then the post to spin. Glad I was only a few minutes away from my car as riding around on a spinning seat is amazingly strange! I guess it's time to order a service kit. This might be an argument against storing my bike upright. I wonder if water inside my frame is flowing "up" the seattube and into my post.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Just did a service yesterday. Inside is clean as in the new.
That rusted circlip is .. strange. )


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

My Revive is already over three years old, last month out of boredom I did a full service because I think it had lost oil and was making me use the revive function more than normal. Bellow is a photo I took, as you can see my circlip is as new, not a spec of rust, and I ride all year around, even when it's raining and occasionally under a downpour.

As * ka81ua* mentioned, that amount of corrosion is strange.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Aglo said:


> a full service


by the way, on your pic I see only one service kit (the one with pins https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-service-kit.html ), but while Full Servicing you should swap almost all the o-rings ( https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-o-ring-kit.html )..


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

You are right.
But as I said, I did it out of boredom .
So I hadn't the complete kit with me at the time and my intention was just to change and make sure the oil level was right.
If after the service the seatpost was still showing the same symptoms, then I would get the full kit and would do everything again. But after the service I haven't use the revive function even a single time. So it was probably just the oil level as I suspected.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

There are 2 issues that interesting to discuss:

1) some vertical "line". Actualy, it's not one line - it's two vertical scuffs, and from aside it looks like there's a one scuff-line )
I still don't get the reason, so maybe someone knows something ))
p.s. yes, it's in the place where one of pins. no, pins were alright. those two scuffs actualy laying on right and left sides from pin, not on pin itself. i don't remember (didn't notice) when it started to appear. dropper works fine.










2) 2 weeks ago I changed pins for new ones (just cause I can )) ). well, 2 weeks later ... they are damaged! They (all 6) are slightly arched in the middles. And of course some scuffs apeeared on pins in the middles.
p.s. yes, I already bought another one service kit with new pins. can't figure out the reason. (


----------



## slavi (Aug 8, 2017)

Also noticed bended pins in mine.


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

I am pretty sure the pins are bent to help reduce rotational play.


----------



## GavinFromLA (Jun 4, 2020)

I'm looking at either the Revive, Divine or the Fox 2021.

Reading reviews online, the Divine seems to not have a "machined" head, meaning the post and the head are one piece or better integrated than on the Revive?


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

can confirm pins are pre-bent from factory


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

GavinFromLA said:


> I'm looking at either the Revive, Divine or the Fox 2021.
> 
> Reading reviews online, the Divine seems to not have a "machined" head, meaning the post and the head are one piece or better integrated than on the Divine?


I don't quite understand your question, but I have one of the new Revives with the machined 1-piece upper tube, and redesigned seat clamp. Not sure if that's also on the Divine.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

blaklabl said:


> new Revives
> 
> machined 1-piece upper tube
> 
> redesigned seat clamp


could you, please, post real photos?
Thanx.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

OK, a lot has happened in the past two weeks, since I was here last time, sorry I didn't see, yet.

Let me try to explain a few things:

1. Broken C-Clip: 
Water inside the frame is the main reason for troubles on our posts. Modern frames tend to have many openings for cables through which water can get inside the frame. Once the water is in the frame, it is not easy to get it out, especially if the frame design does not have proper draining holes. Water inside the frame will eventually evaporate and so you have moist/huid climate inside the frame. This can cause corrosion not only on/in the post, but also on any frame bearings or the BB. This is a big issue of modern frame designs.
Putting the bike upside down while water is inside the frame can make things even worse (for example ot clean the downtube) because it can cause the water not only get to the bottom of the post (you can see on the picture from solamnbunant, that dirty water must have gotten to the bottom of the post, hence the dirty foot part), but also inside th post. Of course this can then also cause corrosion on the pins and the bushings and other parts inside the post. Not even mentioning the dirt, which will be flushed inside the post with the dirty/contaminated water and causes excessive wear. 
If the post is used regularly, then you won't probably feel a lot of difference in the beginning, besides maybe the post being a little more sticky. But if the post stays wet for weeks or months without use, the parts can corrode. That is why it is important to keep the frame dry and it is wise to make sure the post is freshly serviced/greased, dry and clean, before it goes out of use for a longer period of time.
Water getting inside the post through the wiper is highly unlikely, the moisture comes from inside the frame.

2. Oil loss:
When we started production we used a u-cup inside the sealhead as a shaft seal. After testing, we switched to an o-ring seal (sealhead remained identical) due to better friction values, while still excellent sealing function. However, it turned out, that o-ring tolerances (although we get tose specific o-ring from Japan) can cause the seal to weep small amounts of oil. Over time, the oil level will become lower and lower to a point where it is too low and you need to reset more often. We went back to u-cup as I can not recall ever have a single issue with a leaking u-cup. Post with o-ring instead of u-cup have only been produced for a couple of months.

3. The shape of the pins is perfectly fine as it is seen on the pictures above. 
Since many, including big companies, start to copy the **** out of our posts, I would like you to understand, that I would like to not disclose any more of our post design publicly.

4. DIVINE does not have a machined upper tube unit. Not sure, where this information comes from, but it is not correct.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> 3. The shape of the pins is perfectly fine as it is seen on the pictures above.
> Since many, including big companies, start to copy the **** out of our posts, I would like you to understand, that I would like to not disclose any more of our post design publicly.


On my photos (if we're talking bout them) it's not obvious, in reality - there's a real arch in the middle. It's hard (almost impossible) to see it on my photos..

Could you please tell me, can I get Upper Tube somehow? How much? ))

P.S. After 2.5 (since Sunday, 01. April 2018 #403224) years of using your dropper all the time everywhere - it's still just da best. Period. ))


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

I know what you mean. The pins are perfectly fine. ;-)

It is possible to get upper tubes, and any other spare part, but for some parts we'd have to check compatibility before, that's why thos eparts are not in the webshop to buy straight away. 
If you upper tube is not compatible, we'd also have to include new reset assembly parts.
Not a big deal but need to check case by case.
I just saw your serial number and a 1709... is very close to the production date of the running change we made, so to be on the safe side, we should also include the reset assembly just in case. You can also send a picture to me (via mail), then I can definitely tell you, if you need or not.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> I know what you mean. The pins are perfectly fine. ;-)
> 
> It is possible to get upper tubes, and any other spare part, but for some parts we'd have to check compatibility before, that's why thos eparts are not in the webshop to buy straight away.
> If you upper tube is not compatible, we'd also have to include new reset assembly parts.
> ...


what kind of pictures should I take?

my post is 30.9 / 160
Order 403224 04/01/2018
Product REV160309TB


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Sorry, of course. My bad... 
I meant pictures of the part #19 on the explosion drawing, so I can identify the version.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> Sorry, of course. My bad...
> I meant pictures of the part #19 on the explosion drawing, so I can identify the version.


Revive seal head? The part inside cartridge?

Uhm... Okey... I'll try (although I wouldn't like tofully disassemble internals , cause dropper is working fine and I use it everyday.. ) ..
Without that picture there's no any possibility to decide? )


----------



## GavinFromLA (Jun 4, 2020)

Ok, I ended up getting the Divine yesterday.

The question was referring to review at the link below which states:

"The Revive features some more CNC machined parts and thus looks more premium. The Divine on the other hand features the same clamping mechanism, screws and overall design. Both posts get full points in terms of quality and design"

1) What I am asking if the Divine, due to it being newer, was built in hind sight of the issue with the machined head of the Revive causing problems. Hence maybe it is "3D printed" like a lot of German small bike parts and not machined and maybe structurally stronger and lighter?

2) People are now mentioning a one piece upper tube unit that is machined, on the newer Revives. How do you know if a post on say Backcountry is the newer design (if it exists).

3) All I want to know is if the Divine I purchased, in full knowledge of there being issues for some people with the Revive, will have less chance of these issues because it was designed with the benefit of hind sight. Specifically the issue with the seat clamp snapping off.

@Sacki, as an owner of an engineering company and having worked in Germany for many years, what sometimes helps in dealing with customers in US is transparency and a timeline. People totally want to support your company that is obvious and if there is an issue, they understand it is all part of building a successful business and as you can see will work with you through it. What I would suggest though is a post where you say for example:

Jan 2019: First reports of issue come in.
Mar 2019: We work on the issue and decided x to fix it.
Jun 2019: We ship the first updated Revive post with new design.
Sept 2019: We switch to 3D printed/forged for new Divine post due to xyz.

https://awesome-mtb.com/bikeyoke-revive-divine-comparison/


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

GavinFromLA said:


> Ok, I ended up getting the Divine yesterday.
> 
> The question was referring to review at the link below which states:
> 
> ...


My *new* post looks like the one on the left with the machined 1-piece head, which is different from the forged head of the one that was a lemon and was replaced by Sacki.


----------



## GavinFromLA (Jun 4, 2020)

Ok @blaklabl, I'm getting close to the info!

The Revive originally had a non-machined forged head. The issue was highlighted and it was replaced with a machined 1-piece head.

The Divine has the forged head, and so would have the old Revive design and thus, maybe prone to the issue of snapping?

@Sacki, I'm just looking for the best of the two posts to purchase that has been built specifically to avoid the snapping issue, even if it is a *very* small number that fail.

Looking at the posts in the review, you can clearly see that the seat post clamp is machined due to visible grooves (first and second image). However the Revive on Backcountry (third image) is clearly forged to my eyes and thus is older and does may snap. The Divine has the forged head and is new, so it may or may not snap.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

GavinFromLA said:


> Ok @blaklabl, I'm getting close to the info!
> 
> The Revive originally had a non-machined forged head. The issue was highlighted and it was replaced with a machined 1-piece head.
> 
> ...


Well you'll be happy to know that the seat clamp, while also improved and revised, still kept the original design feature of a creaking that WILL NOT GO AWAY.


----------



## GavinFromLA (Jun 4, 2020)

blaklabl said:


> Well you'll be happy to know that the seat clamp, while also improved and revised, still kept the original design feature of a creaking that WILL NOT GO AWAY.


I just cancelled my order, I had a look at the Bike Yoke site and it seems that all the posts there have the old forged design, from the images at least. So I think that there is a bit too much opaqueness around what you might end up with. I'll definitely check out Bike Yoke again, but will buy the new 2021 fox instead.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

GavinFromLA said:


> Ok, I ended up getting the Divine yesterday.
> 
> The question was referring to review at the link below which states:
> 
> ...


Wow, OK.

1) You are mixing a lot of things here. The REVIVE with the new head design cab be seen on the picture on the left. This is the new CNC "machined" head, the upper tube unit is made of one single piece by 3D forging and then the head is machined afterwards. There has never been an issue with a "machined" REVIVE head, unless you are referring to something else, when referring to "machined". 
While the outer appearence is basically same, the DIVINE has a complete different head and upper tube design because of different internals. DIVINE has been on the market since 2018, used from several OE companies and we just started offering them aftermarket in late summer last year. Zero DIVINE posts have had an issue with a structural failure since marlet entry.

2) I don't know, you would probably have to ask them, but I am not sure if they even know the difference. This new upper tube is a running change, that has been implemented into production step by step, so far without notice, just as we have not mentioned other small updates before that.

3)We would not be selling the DIVINE if we would'nt trust in the design and if we knew there were some problems we should work on. Again: There have been zero (0) reported cases of a structurally failed DIVINE in two years.

I can understand, that people want the newest stuff and would not lik to buy anything outdated, if someting new is about to come out. I totally get that. That is why we will not officially announce anything before we know that most of the old stock is already sold out.
The REVIVE has also received other updates before this "one piece" upper tube and we did not announce: Upper clamps (twice redesigned), bolts (twice redesigned), foot part (once redesigned), wiper (once redesigned). Those are all changes that we do in running production, because we get new technical options or because we have the ability to invest in new moulds or other reasons. We always kept improving and we always will. If you want to wait for the latest updated, then you will wait forever, because another update is sure to come.
The redesign of the upper tube was not only because of some structurally failed posts , but because something else is about to come together with the new design, which made this design necessary.
When talking about structurally failed post, we are still talking about only roughly 60-70 units out of roughly 45,000-50,000 produced posts until today - with most of those posts something at least being curious. Be it that the saddle clamps were installed in reverse, or the saddles were slammed all the way back over the limits, or other curiosities. 
Only a very small number of posts failed, where we have no idea what could have happened (if the customer's information was all honest, what I never question).
The last customer here, who reported a failure in this forum had his upper and lower clamps installed in reverse. You can even see it on the picture in this thread. yet, we did replace withotu any additional cost for the customer.
I show you something else we have to deal with daily. This just came in yesterday:
















The customer is claiming a broken upper clamp. Now have a look at the bolts and nut he was using. 
I am not saying our product is 100% bomb-proof, but it is far away from being likely to fail, if you treat it as it is supposed to be treated. Occasional failures without explanation are unfortunately hard to avoid and can happen, but we are talking about very very very small numbers.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

GavinFromLA said:


> Ok @blaklabl, I'm getting close to the info!
> 
> The Revive originally had a non-machined forged head. The issue was highlighted and it was replaced with a machined 1-piece head.
> 
> ...


No, the DIVINE DOES NOT have the forged head of the REVIVE. It has a different head design, because of different internals and is not prone to fail. Also the REVIVE is not "prone" to fail.
The REVIVES that are on sale now - even if not the latest 3D forged one piece upper tube - have another, updated head design than the ones which you are referring to, when speaking of "failed" ones. In late 2019, we have introduced another running change in the head design and we have not heard of a single case that has failed of these ones. We are costantly making small changes, if we think we can improve things easily.

This what today happens, is what made (and makes) it complicated for me trying to offering forum support, because we sometimes tell too much and people start to wonder adn worry about things that sometimes do not deserve this much attention. 
I understand, that you are just trying to figure out things, but in you last two comments there were so many false or at least confusing information, which makes it hard for other customers to know, what is right or wrong. Not everyone is following this thread from the beginning to the end. If they only read your post, they get a wring impression, and possibly even false information.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

GavinFromLA said:


> I just cancelled my order, I had a look at the Bike Yoke site and it seems that all the posts there have the old forged design, from the images at least. So I think that there is a bit too much opaqueness around what you might end up with. I'll definitely check out Bike Yoke again, but will buy the new 2021 fox instead.


Because we do not update the pictures, before the redesign is not officially released.
Also, the DIVINE will not receive a machined upper head or a one oiece upper tube design.

Also I don't believe that webshops do always update their pictures, if the manufacturer decides to make minor changes. We as any other manufacturer - do make small running changes without notice and that is perfectly normal and fine. If you think a XY fork or frame or shock - just because it is the same model year - is always the exact same product then I am afraid I have to disappoint you. If a manufcturer would always make public notcice about detail changes, he could also well stop trying to sell "old" stock, once the notice is made.


----------



## GavinFromLA (Jun 4, 2020)

Sacki, you said it yourself "because we sometimes tell too much and people start to wonder and worry about things that sometimes do not deserve this much attention."

You need to be totally transparent. From the above post there are now it seems 3 different Revive posts, with in your own words, one having the latest improved machined single piece design. When someone is willing to shell out $400+ for something in a crowded market and in light of failures that are in public review comments on Amazon etc *and* without any clear identifiable versioning, you end up with people like me wondering what version they are going to get. People will try to work out what versions are available and are sensible to do so. If they are mixed up, then that is a symptom of the lack of clarity. 

Other companies do revs, so you have Revive 2018, 2019, 2020, with each clearly identifiable, if not by year, at least by SKU. What we have here is not a lot of clarity. 

Like the only place I see the improved single tube version is as a replacement or in a single review. Like is this version even released or available for purchase? This is what lack of transparency causes, people question the brand. At this end of the market, it is not about money, it is about having *the* best. If there is some elusive machined lastest version that is the best, but you might get some other version that isn't, people will return it.


----------



## GavinFromLA (Jun 4, 2020)

sacki said:


> Because we do not update the pictures, before the redesign is not officially released.
> Also, the DIVINE will not receive a machined upper head or a one oiece upper tube design.
> 
> Also I don't believe that webshops do always update their pictures, if the manufacturer decides to make minor changes. We as any other manufacturer - do make small running changes without notice and that is perfectly normal and fine. If you think a XY fork or frame or shock - just because it is the same model year - is always the exact same product then I am afraid I have to disappoint you. If a manufcturer would always make public notcice about detail changes, he could also well stop trying to sell "old" stock, once the notice is made.


Ok Sacki, reading between the lines, the machined head is not out yet, but is on the way. You have me as a customer when that arrives. People will work with you on it, but you need to be clear. You can't have reviews out there circulating with an improved version that is a differentiator (the reviewer clearly states it is more high end feel) and not being clear that this version is not yet out. People will always forgive improvements and see that as totally natural evolution of a brand, but less forgiving if they feel they are not being dealt with transparently. As I said before, you're at the top end of the market, so that also comes with responsibility.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

blaklabl said:


> Well you'll be happy to know that the seat clamp, while also improved and revised, still kept the original design feature of a creaking that WILL NOT GO AWAY.


I want to be fair to Sacki in this; the post I received does have the most current and updated seat clamp hardware. It was silent for a couple rides and then started creaking. We corresponded today and he gave me a few more ideas of how to rectify it, which I will try when I get around to putting it back in my bike. Right now I'm not in a wrenching mood (hot garage in AZ summer) and want to just ride when I get the chance, so I'm rolling with a straight post for now. I'm hoping I can use some of the tips to address it and it will work better than ever.

Thanks all, and thanks to Sacki for always jumping in to help.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

GavinFromLA said:


> Ok Sacki, reading between the lines, the machined head is not out yet, but is on the way. You have me as a customer when that arrives. People will work with you on it, but you need to be clear. You can't have reviews out there circulating with an improved version that is a differentiator (the reviewer clearly states it is more high end feel) and not being clear that this version is not yet out. People will always forgive improvements and see that as totally natural evolution of a brand, but less forgiving if they feel they are not being dealt with transparently. As I said before, you're at the top end of the market, so that also comes with responsibility.


Need, must, transparent,...
Are you serious writing all your latest posts here ?!..


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

GavinFromLA said:


> Ok Sacki, reading between the lines, the machined head is not out yet, but is on the way. You have me as a customer when that arrives. People will work with you on it, but you need to be clear. You can't have reviews out there circulating with an improved version that is a differentiator (the reviewer clearly states it is more high end feel) and not being clear that this version is not yet out. People will always forgive improvements and see that as totally natural evolution of a brand, but less forgiving if they feel they are not being dealt with transparently. As I said before, you're at the top end of the market, so that also comes with responsibility.


Let me explain something again:
ALL REVIVES, that we have delivered from our factory to distributors from late May on already are equipped with the new upper tube unit. We have been doing this, so that our distributors and dealers in the US don't have to worry about any more old stock, once the press release is going to happen around end of July. 
Distributors have been informed, so they know, what is going to happen in about one month from now. Our posts have a very fast turnraround, because we produce on demand and not just blow out as much as we can like other companies - especially now, the posts are selling very quickly through the stock. that means, and I said it before, many customers already got this new version of the REVIVE without even knowing it.
I think we do more than others to try to make no one upset, when something new is coming out. We do really care about customers, dealers and distributors.
But now, I am not going to discuss any more here about future products, sorry. I think, this is more than what you can expect on information on what was not due to be released yet in the first place.
And I will also stop posting spy shots or peek views of something that is about to come in the near future, as I used to do in the past. I've learned my lesson here.

On one thing I do totally agree with you: The review of the REVIVE vs. DIVINE should not have been published by Awesome MTB, yet. My mistake and it won't happen again.

For further technical questions or assistance I am - of course - happy to help.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

ka81ua said:


> Revive seal head? The part inside cartridge?
> 
> Uhm... Okey... I'll try (although I wouldn't like tofully disassemble internals , cause dropper is working fine and I use it everyday.. ) ..
> Without that picture there's no any possibility to decide? )


Shoot me an e-mail, we will get this sorted.
[email protected]

Cheers
Sacki


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> Shoot me an e-mail, we will get this sorted.
> [email protected]
> 
> Cheers
> Sacki


I did it 20/06. ))

Not a problem, will send again.

Thank you, Sacki!!


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Oh, then you are the one who is already talking to Flo. He already replied to you, right? 
He was just checking with our service center and was waiting for reply and then was about to reply to you today.
So please, everybody, may I ask for a favor: 
If possible, please pick only ONE channel to get in touch with us!
We have customers, who contact us through facebook, instagram and e-mail at the same time and then even send the e-mail to any address they can find.
That means everyone of us who received a message feels obligated to reply, not knowing, that the same inquiry was sent to someone else of us.
I know you don't mean it, but it is a lot of trouble for us.
It is double and triple work for us, and can become frustrating. We do usually reply quite quickly, and if we should not have replied within two working days, you can send a little reminder.
Thanks.


----------



## jworx (Sep 8, 2011)

This happened on my last ride. So glad I didn't get impaled.

Is this repairable?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

jworx said:


> .
> 
> Is this repairable?


This is replaceable. 
)


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

jworx said:


> View attachment 1343999
> 
> This happened on my last ride. So glad I didn't get impaled.
> 
> Is this repairable?


#71-ish

Glad you're ok. Scary stuff, especially considering where that piece of equipment resides.

Anyone know at what level a recall is issued? Is it strict number of failures, or % of total produced? Eventually someone is going to get seriously injured on that old style bonded/forged head when it fails - not sure which would be more expensive, the litigation or a recall?


----------



## jworx (Sep 8, 2011)

blaklabl said:


> #71-ish
> 
> Glad you're ok. Scary stuff, especially considering where that piece of equipment resides.
> 
> Anyone know at what level a recall is issued? Is it strict number of failures, or % of total produced? Eventually someone is going to get seriously injured on that old style bonded/forged head when it fails - not sure which would be more expensive, the litigation or a recall?


Thanks! It definitely could have ended badly.


----------



## YoungWhipper3 (Aug 12, 2019)

blaklabl said:


> #71-ish
> 
> Glad you're ok. Scary stuff, especially considering where that piece of equipment resides.
> 
> Anyone know at what level a recall is issued? Is it strict number of failures, or % of total produced? Eventually someone is going to get seriously injured on that old style bonded/forged head when it fails - not sure which would be more expensive, the litigation or a recall?


Recalls are voluntary at cpsc.gov unless they get enough consumer complaints.

Usually Specialized recalls are like "The firm has received two reports involving (blank). No injuries have been reported."


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

jworx said:


> View attachment 1343999
> 
> This happened on my last ride. So glad I didn't get impaled.
> 
> Is this repairable?


You too? Hope it missed you. Cost me about $900 in medical bills and 6 weeks off the bike. I did get a refund on my post though.


----------



## jworx (Sep 8, 2011)

BIke N Gear said:


> You too? Hope it missed you. Cost me about $900 in medical bills and 6 weeks off the bike. I did get a refund on my post though.


Ouch! I hope everything is all healed up now.


----------



## mmisinco (Jun 27, 2020)

I just dropped in to see if anyone had issues with creaking from the rails... The pics of the snapped post heads have me worried. I’m over 200lbs and have a 185 that came on my Guerrilla Gravity I got back at the end of February. I definitely have the old style head. I really don’t want it to rape me or tear open my sack... Surely, there will be some kind of recall on this?


----------



## YoungWhipper3 (Aug 12, 2019)

mmisinco said:


> I just dropped in to see if anyone had issues with creaking from the rails... The pics of the snapped post heads have me worried. I'm over 200lbs and have a 185 that came on my Guerrilla Gravity I got back at the end of February. I definitely have the old style head. I really don't want it to rape me or tear open my sack... Surely, there will be some kind of recall on this?


I'd be requesting a replacement to the improved design if I were you, maybe from GG if it came stock. It isn't difficult to imagine a really serious injury coming from this failure.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

mmisinco said:


> I just dropped in to see if anyone had issues with creaking from the rails... The pics of the snapped post heads have me worried. I'm over 200lbs and have a 185 that came on my Guerrilla Gravity I got back at the end of February. I definitely have the old style head. I really don't want it to rape me or tear open my sack... Surely, there will be some kind of recall on this?


To be clear, I have the new machined 1-piece upper and new seat clamp hardware, and it still creaks from the seat clamp. I am going to try some additional things to quiet it down per Sacki, but I think the seat clamp just creaks no matter what. It's really finicky. Or I'm just over sensitive to noises.


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

blaklabl said:


> To be clear, I have the new machined 1-piece upper and new seat clamp hardware, and it still creaks from the seat clamp. I am going to try some additional things to quiet it down per Sacki, but I think the seat clamp just creaks no matter what. It's really finicky. Or I'm just over sensitive to noises.


My seat clamp creaked for a time, don't know why, probably some random combination of variables. I decided to apply a thin coat of anti seize copper paste on the interface between the seat clamp and the the seatpost head, tight everything to torque specs and no more creaks since then.
Funny thing is, it didn't creaked at first, only after I swapped the saddle and washed everything before reassembling it, it started creaking, go figures.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Aglo said:


> My seat clamp creaked for a time, don't know why, probably some random combination of variables. I decided to apply a thin coat of anti seize copper paste on the interface between the seat clamp and the the seatpost head, tight everything to torque specs and no more creaks since then.
> Funny thing is, it didn't creaked at first, only after I swapped the saddle and washed everything before reassembling it, it started creaking, go figures.


Thanks for that, same here. Started out great, creaked like crazy (among other issues, determined I had a lemon) and then the brand new one did the same thing after a couple rides.

Are you talking about the copper colored anti-seize paste you would use on Ti bolts?


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

blaklabl said:


> (...)
> Are you talking about the copper colored anti-seize paste you would use on Ti bolts?


Yes, I suppose it's the same thing.
Google "Motorex copper anti seize paste", I'm using that. I'm also using that on my seat tube.


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

blaklabl said:


> To be clear, I have the new machined 1-piece upper and new seat clamp hardware, and it still creaks from the seat clamp. I am going to try some additional things to quiet it down per Sacki, but I think the seat clamp just creaks no matter what. It's really finicky. Or I'm just over sensitive to noises.


0.1-0.2 mm brass shim should help.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

accordnick said:


> 0.1-0.2 mm brass shim should help.


Shim? How does it look like?


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

ka81ua said:


> Shim? How does it look like?


Obviously, like a brass shim. ) Let me find it for you:

https://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-1033134-4.html#post13744688


----------



## xmikedentx (Oct 4, 2009)

richwales said:


> For anyone interested I have reduced the travel on my 160mm bikeyoke by 20mm. It now tops out at 140mm and allows me to use the bikeyoke in my new frame (which had less insertion depth than previous). A friend of mine fabricated a spacer and it was a relatively straightforward procedure to fit. It's an interference fit so doesn't move on the shaft and works perfectly. If anyone is interested in more details drop me a PM. Cheers


Dude, make me one please!!!! Sent you a PM


----------



## xmikedentx (Oct 4, 2009)

richwales said:


> For anyone interested I have reduced the travel on my 160mm bikeyoke by 20mm. It now tops out at 140mm and allows me to use the bikeyoke in my new frame (which had less insertion depth than previous). A friend of mine fabricated a spacer and it was a relatively straightforward procedure to fit. It's an interference fit so doesn't move on the shaft and works perfectly. If anyone is interested in more details drop me a PM. Cheers


Dude I need this! PM sent!


----------



## xmikedentx (Oct 4, 2009)

richwales said:


> For anyone interested I have reduced the travel on my 160mm bikeyoke by 20mm. It now tops out at 140mm and allows me to use the bikeyoke in my new frame (which had less insertion depth than previous). A friend of mine fabricated a spacer and it was a relatively straightforward procedure to fit. It's an interference fit so doesn't move on the shaft and works perfectly. If anyone is interested in more details drop me a PM. Cheers


PM sent! I need one


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> Shoot me an e-mail, we will get this sorted.
> [email protected]
> 
> Cheers
> Sacki


Today I wrote you an e-mail, could you please send what are my next steps (I mean paying for lower and upper tubes)..

Thank you!


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

I just want to confirm here in the forum so everyone knows:
Today I replied to your e-mail and in this e-mail I explained to you what are your next steps.


----------



## beeveeaych (Jul 9, 2020)

Hi Sacki or anyone else that might have an answer. I cross threaded one of my saddle clamp bolts and accidentally sheared it off trying to break it free. On first inspection it looked like a fairly standard shoulder bolt, but on closer inspection it is not. I have not been able to find a bolt with a similar shoulder length and oval head.
I would like to order new hardware, but I live in BC, Canada and it looks like shipping from Germany is only by ocean freight right now. Is there a supplier or distributor in North America I could order these off of for quicker delivery? 

Much appreciated. Love the post.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Actually, we do ship to Canada, using Deutsche Post Warenpost.
USA, Australia, NZL are not processing any shipments at the moment, though, which sucks, because their status has not changed since beginning of April. Not sure, what is going on there, but we cna ship to most destinations in the whole world, but not to these.

I have just checked for you the last 5 orders to Canada from June and they have interestingly all arrived within less than a week to 13 days maximum. That is fairly quick.
However, please do not nail me down on this. This may vary and I can not guarantee for anything.

This is still a long time, if you want to ride your bike.
We are currently looking for a new distributor for Canada, as our former one did not want to continue, but you may be able to source some bolts from them still. They should still have some spare parts, which we have supplied to them.
S4 Suspension was our distributor.
Jeff from the Wheelthing and Bikeroom does also carry spares, you may give it a shot there too.
If that didn't work either, you may want to get in touch with one of our US service centers (see contact page on our website)
They have stock of all parts and I am sure, they will be able to help you out in a simple way, too.
Let me know, if you were lucky, if not, I´ll try to help otherwise. We'll get it sorted, don't worry!


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Sounds like Sacki has you dialed, as usual. Try a thomson bolt and capture nut (cyclinder). If you are lucky, a local shop, or snag a thomson standard post (not dropper) on caraigslist, use bolt for a week, then sell post on ebay when you get proper part.


----------



## beeveeaych (Jul 9, 2020)

Sacki, thanks for such a quick reply. Parts are ordered!


----------



## Carl Mega (Jan 17, 2004)

BIke N Gear said:


> You too? Hope it missed you. Cost me about $900 in medical bills and 6 weeks off the bike. I did get a refund on my post though.


Eeeek! G- long time, no talk. You doing ok?


----------



## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

Carl Mega said:


> Eeeek! G- long time, no talk. You doing ok?


Yeah,shop is buried in Covid repairs. Sold every bike in inventory in a 3 weeks back in May.

Running an AXS dropper now. I figure if a post tries to take out my nuts again I'll go for a larger payout.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

BIke N Gear said:


> Running an AXS dropper now. I figure if a post tries to take out my nuts again I'll go for a larger payout.


Good idea. Also, SRAM probably won't try to say every issue you're having with their post is somehow the fault of your setup, something you did wrong, a seat collar you didn't tighten right, or otherwise something that is YOUR fault. Just saying.


----------



## Carl Mega (Jan 17, 2004)

BIke N Gear said:


> Running an AXS dropper now. I figure if a post tries to take out my nuts again I'll go for a larger payout.


Um, sounds electrifying no?


----------



## bdreynolds7 (Dec 13, 2019)

FYI, I kept getting this gnarly creaking going on with my seat. Put all kinds of lubrication where the seat rails go into the seat but nothing seemed to get rid of a bad creaking going on every time I moved around on the seat. Took the Revive apart at the seat clamp and put anti seize around the barrel nuts where they sit in the grooves of the top seat clamp, coated them really well, put it back together and no more creaking. Just wanted to pass this info along for those with loud seat posts. Seems that area where the barrel nuts sit just collect dirt which promotes noise.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

bdreynolds7 said:


> FYI, I kept getting this gnarly creaking going on with my seat. Put all kinds of lubrication where the seat rails go into the seat but nothing seemed to get rid of a bad creaking going on every time I moved around on the seat. Took the Revive apart at the seat clamp and put anti seize around the barrel nuts where they sit in the grooves of the top seat clamp, coated them really well, put it back together and no more creaking. Just wanted to pass this info along for those with loud seat posts. Seems that area where the barrel nuts sit just collect dirt which promotes noise.


I appreciate this, very timely info. I finally got around to swapping out my (super quiet and non-creaking) Tellis post with my like-new Revive that had a creaking going on (again, even after the new design clamp hardware, machined head, all of that). I have corresponded with Sacki about this and to his credit, he has certainly given me some ideas on how to address it. I really took my time installing it, took it apart and cleaned every piece, put anti-seize on the bolts, held the clamp towards the back while tightening it - basically did EVERYTHING he suggested. First ride - perfect. Ride the next day: back to creaking, got worse as the ride progressed.

So, I will once again take it off my bike and do what you suggested, he never said to put any lubrication in there but I am willing to do anything to get it to stop.

The BikeYoke Revive is the smoothest, fastest, and most awesome post I have ever had - I've had a bunch, and this is my second Revive - but I have NEVER had such a finicky seat clamp on anything I have used before.

Before someone tells me its my seat, it isn't. Have been using it on the Tellis and a straight post off an on all year, and no noises occur until I use it on the BY. Also, it's not the seat clamp dirty, unlubricated, or any dirt and crap down in the seat tube. It is 100% the seat clamp mechanism on the seat post.


----------



## bdreynolds7 (Dec 13, 2019)

Trust me, it will fix the problem! Rode it again today with no noise.



blaklabl said:


> I appreciate this, very timely info. I finally got around to swapping out my (super quiet and non-creaking) Tellis post with my like-new Revive that had a creaking going on (again, even after the new design clamp hardware, machined head, all of that). I have corresponded with Sacki about this and to his credit, he has certainly given me some ideas on how to address it. I really took my time installing it, took it apart and cleaned every piece, put anti-seize on the bolts, held the clamp towards the back while tightening it - basically did EVERYTHING he suggested. First ride - perfect. Ride the next day: back to creaking, got worse as the ride progressed.
> 
> So, I will once again take it off my bike and do what you suggested, he never said to put any lubrication in there but I am willing to do anything to get it to stop.
> 
> ...


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

heat-shrink tube


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

ka81ua said:


> heat-shrink tube


That is a super cool idea and I'll bet it works great! Anything to keep metal/metal contact down. I may try that if the extra anti-seize doesn't work.

Honestly though that should be completely unnecessary on a $400 seat post!!!


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

blaklabl said:


> That is a super cool idea and I'll bet it works great! Anything to keep metal/metal contact down. I may try that if the extra anti-seize doesn't work.
> 
> Honestly though that should be completely unnecessary on a $400 seat post!!!


Billions of things are unnecessary herr and there. That particular case is one of the lightest among others.
P.s. Also, I like to diy upgrade stuff, even not the cheapest. Bought new box kit of Saints M820, and as everyone knows - shimano fu..ed every owner with their master cylinder (no oring or anything to protect from mud). So, we, the people, found our diy solutions. )
Etc...


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> try to


Hello

Could you please tell me - what is the prefered material for o-rings in Revive? Which one is the best for your dropper?

I have opportunity to choose from:

NBR (70NBR , 90NBR)
VMQ
FPM
EPDM


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Unless otherwisely noted in the explosion view, all o-rings are NBR 70A


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Yeah, but if i can get any of those types - maybe some of them is better than others?


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

The Revive is an expensive post, I'd imagine if there was a performance gain to be had from a few pence extra on an o-ring, it would have been specced that way.

If the man who designed it say NBR70, I'd go with that.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

May I ask why don't you just buy the o-ring kit form our website?
Just a couple of weeks ago you have ordered a upper tube unit and lower tube from our service center, due to a scratch, is that correct?
I can not give any recommendation on other materials than the ones we use, sorry.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> Just a couple of weeks ago you have ordered a upper tube unit and lower tube from our service center, due to a scratch, is that correct?


yes, that was me, and it doesn't defibe anything about my logic. 



sacki said:


> May I ask why don't you just buy the o-ring kit form our website?.


Of course you may. )
1. I already bought all service kits needed.
2. The main answer is very simple - even the perfect dropper post may become even more perfect with someones DIY ideas/solutions, that will be approved by other geniuses. ))



sacki said:


> I can not give any recommendation on other materials than the ones we use, sorry.


ok then. Thank you anyway.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

onzadog said:


> The Revive is an expensive post, I'd imagine if there was a performance gain to be had from a few pence extra on an o-ring, it would have been specced that way.
> 
> If the man who designed it say NBR70, I'd go with that.


Seriously, man, wake up...

Just one of billions examples: I bought Fox X2 for 760€. Do you accept Fox'x engineers as professionals ? 
Well, thanks to them every third owner of X2 had a "cavitation" problem BECAUSE of one damn o-ring (it was installed x-ring instead of o-ring). So, people found out the cause and dealed with a problem by buying normal o-ring. After some time Fox finally started to think and they changed ring in their new X2.


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

I said nothing about Fox. I'm more than willing to believe that they build down to a price, even if it's a high price.

I choose to believe than Sacki has built up to a spec.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

onzadog said:


> I said nothing about Fox. I'm more than willing to believe that they build down to a price, even if it's a high price.
> 
> I choose to believe than Sacki has built up to a spec.


I wrote about Fox as an example!! One of many examples in bike industry (and any other manufacturing). As an example of what can BE even with very expensive products. For your information, the price of correct o-ring is just 1€, one f...g euro - https://www.foxracingshox.de/905/20...e-parker-4300/92a-or-disgroin-9250/90a-dynam#

"Believe" ?
For god sake, start think wider, try to find out, to get new knowledges, to improve things.
Or, well, just keep believing.


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks for the valuable life advice, I'll take it under advisement and combine it with a degree in mechanical engineering and a decade of design and manufacturing experience.

Yes, some design decisions are based on cost, some in performance and some, have so little bearing on either that they're not worth spending the time considering it.

Yes, "believe" because neither of us has evidence either way for anything other than an opinion or belief.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

onzadog said:


> Thanks for the valuable life advice, I'll take it under advisement and combine it with a degree in mechanical engineering and a decade of design and manufacturing experience.
> 
> Yes, some design decisions are based on cost, some in performance and some, have so little bearing on either that they're not worth spending the time considering it.
> 
> Yes, "believe" because neither of us has evidence either way for anything other than an opinion or belief.


You're so much welcome, dear experienced engineer and designer, much welcome. 
No I understand - in Fox engineering department all of them are true believers. )))

Anyway, back to the thread: if anyone else has to add smth about all those rubber types (in context of that thread) - I'd really appreciate that usefull info. )


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

I sense much less support...


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

blaklabl said:


> That is a super cool idea and I'll bet it works great! Anything to keep metal/metal contact down. I may try that if the extra anti-seize doesn't work.


Confirming - it works. )
First - clean, clean, clean.
Second - tubes on bolts and barrel nuts. Choose the tightest diameter of tubes. On bolts - two layers: black is just for bolt spindle, another one on bolt's head.


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

ka81ua said:


> Confirming - it works. )
> First - clean, clean, clean.
> Second - tubes on bolts and barrel nuts. Choose the tightest diameter of tubes. On bolts - two layers: black is just for bolt spindle, another one on bolt's head.


Where you getting the shrink-wrap? The anti-seize lasted all of one ride for me, then back to loud creaking.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Jayem said:


> Where you getting the shrink-wrap? The anti-seize lasted all of one ride for me, then back to loud creaking.


Home Depot if you don't mind a limited color selection.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Jayem said:


> Where you getting the shrink-wrap? .


Are you serious?.. )

https://www.aliexpress.com/af/heat-...filiate&SortType=price_asc&groupsort=1&page=1


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Jayem said:


> Where you getting the shrink-wrap? The anti-seize lasted all of one ride for me, then back to loud creaking.


Here you go Jayem, at least it's from Amazon and you know what you're getting and when you are getting it. Seems reasonably priced and has a variety of pieces. I guess I'll have to get one too since their doesn't seem to be any official fix for the issue from Sacki/BikeYoke.

https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-580-p...g&qid=1597073982&sprefix=heat+,aps,200&sr=8-4

While I am glad that other people are having the same issue as me and are speaking up, I think it's ridiculous to have to do tinkering like this on a $400 seat post to make it work. But, as long as all the review sites keep crowning it as the best post ever made, there is no incentive to fix the problem us regular riders are having.


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

006_007 said:


> Home Depot if you don't mind a limited color selection.


I didn't want to waste going to 3 stores. I don't care what the color is.


----------



## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Very funny to hear about a creaking clamp being the major issue with a dropper post. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

cjsb said:


> Very funny to hear about a creaking clamp being the major issue with a dropper post.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I don't really notice the creaking clamp aver the noise of the whining owner.


----------



## MX9799 (Feb 11, 2018)

I have a question about one of my revive droppers that I'm hoping some here may can help me with. From the beginning, this dropper's lever action felt harder and rougher than my other one, which is buttery smooth. I thought it was likely due to the different internal cable routing on a different bike. Now, after three months of use, the lever is sticking out and will not come back in on it's own when I raise the seat. I have to push the lever back in with my thumb before I sit down on the seat once the post is returned to the raised position. The weird thing is that the returns returns fast and easily when I drop the seat, and it only sticks when the post is in the raised position. As far as the function of the post, it drops and raises smooth and fast. The only problem is that the lever sticks when the post is in the raised position. Any thoughts on what it could be before I dive into trying to fix it?


----------



## bdreynolds7 (Dec 13, 2019)

Jayem said:


> Where you getting the shrink-wrap? The anti-seize lasted all of one ride for me, then back to loud creaking.


How much anti-seize did you use? I put a lot in there and I'm just getting hints of it creaking again after a handful of rides. Might try the heat shrink trick next


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

bdreynolds7 said:


> How much anti-seize did you use? I put a lot in there and I'm just getting hints of it creaking again after a handful of rides. Might try the heat shrink trick next


Lots. But it also creates the problem where you can't wash your bike, at least that area, and that's an area that tends to get a lot of crud in it from the tire...


----------



## zagnuts (Aug 14, 2020)

*Revive Upper Saddle Clamp Cracked, cracks, crack*

Hi folks -

We have a creaking or squeak or sound or loose seat and with torque wrench at 7nm we attempted to tighten and found could not get to torque spec and further inspection found the upper saddle clamp cracked at both sides. The line is faint but you can see it in the photo? To me the upper saddle clamp design is nice but material of construction is inadequate.

Yes my bike shop probably did this by over-tightening. NOT ME.

But still - $400 bucks and a die-cast part? Does anyone know of a mfgr of an aftermarket saddle clamp that is stronger? Or is this simply a 22 dollar consumable item for me to replace from time to time?

New Bike - ridden hard.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

*Finally*



zagnuts said:


> Hi folks -
> 
> We have a creaking or squeak or sound or loose seat and with torque wrench at 7nm we attempted to tighten and found could not get to torque spec and further inspection found the upper saddle clamp cracked at both sides. The line is faint but you can see it in the photo? To me the upper saddle clamp design is nice but material of construction is inadequate.
> 
> ...


I'm glad some people are putting a critical eye to this and not just being fan-bois. This is the weakness of this otherwise awesome post. I have ordered the heat shrink tubing to try and address the noise and allow me to run the correct torque spec. I would gladly pay for a beefier machined replacement and/or a better design that didn't use the 2 barrel nuts.

Also, if you go up in this thread, I believe Sacki says he has gone up to 10nm on those bolts and not had an issue, but wouldn't endorse it. Your pics show why he won't.


----------



## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

I’m using a J&L seatpost yoke for a Thompson/KCNC style head. Works well enough for my purposes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## zagnuts (Aug 14, 2020)

*Revive Upper Saddle Clamp Cracked, cracks, crack*



Le Duke said:


> I'm using a J&L seatpost yoke for a Thompson/KCNC style head. Works well enough for my purposes.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


encouraging - so we can butcher up a good seatpost to make our seatpost great. Why has someone not jumped on this and made a good upper saddle clamp to remedy this?


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

zagnuts said:


> Why has someone not jumped on this and made a good upper saddle clamp to remedy this?


Because apparently we are "whining" and the post is perfect as is.

There have been improvements to the clamp mechanism, mostly around the bolts and washers, but it still creaks. It's a faulty design having to do with the barrel nuts and their cradle, that area just collects dust and dirt and it doesn't take but a ride or so before it starts creaking after adding anti-seize.

I looked at the J&L part on eBay, still trying to wrap my head around how it would work. Would be great if we could get a picture of it mounted on the BY.


----------



## MX9799 (Feb 11, 2018)

MX9799 said:


> I have a question about one of my revive droppers that I'm hoping some here may can help me with. From the beginning, this dropper's lever action felt harder and rougher than my other one, which is buttery smooth. I thought it was likely due to the different internal cable routing on a different bike. Now, after three months of use, the lever is sticking out and will not come back in on it's own when I raise the seat. I have to push the lever back in with my thumb before I sit down on the seat once the post is returned to the raised position. The weird thing is that the returns returns fast and easily when I drop the seat, and it only sticks when the post is in the raised position. As far as the function of the post, it drops and raises smooth and fast. The only problem is that the lever sticks when the post is in the raised position. Any thoughts on what it could be before I dive into trying to fix it?


Got my problem figured out. Pretty easy fix. The hollow bolt that goes through the lever pivot was too tight. Loosened approximately 1/8 of a turn and the action is smooth and the lever returns fast with the seat up or down.


----------



## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

blaklabl said:


> Because apparently we are "whining" and the post is perfect as is.
> 
> There have been improvements to the clamp mechanism, mostly around the bolts and washers, but it still creaks. It's a faulty design having to do with the barrel nuts and their cradle, that area just collects dust and dirt and it doesn't take but a ride or so before it starts creaking after adding anti-seize.
> 
> I looked at the J&L part on eBay, still trying to wrap my head around how it would work. Would be great if we could get a picture of it mounted on the BY.












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Le Duke said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you for that! Did you have to wrap your rails in duct tape or are my eyes playing tricks on me?


----------



## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

blaklabl said:


> Thank you for that! Did you have to wrap your rails in duct tape or are my eyes playing tricks on me?


No, the saddle is a ~10 year old Fizik Antares 00 and the rails came covered with a kind of poorly done additional carbon wrap designed to protect them. It's flaking off. Various other seat posts and their clamps have been much rougher on the saddle over the years.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Le Duke said:


> No, the saddle is a ~10 year old Fizik Antares 00 and the rails came covered with a kind of poorly done additional carbon wrap designed to protect them. It's flaking off. Various other seat posts and their clamps have been much rougher on the saddle over the years.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Fizik still do that on the carbon saddle rails.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Le Duke said:


> No, the saddle is a ~10 year old Fizik Antares 00 and the rails came covered with a kind of poorly done additional carbon wrap designed to protect them. It's flaking off. Various other seat posts and their clamps have been much rougher on the saddle over the years.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you for the context ~ I'm going to try the heat shrink tubing tomorrow, but will probably order a set of those J&L from eBay to try as well - but it looks like it will take them 2 months to get here.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Too hot to ride outside, might as well tackle this....









Couple of things; if you have the newer style bolts/heads, the shrink tubing is unnecessary as it will just push it off as you tighten. No biggie. The biggest benefit is eliminating the potential for rubbing where the bolt passes thru the bottom of the post head (if it's not perfectly centered) and the elimination of the metal on metal contact of the barrel nuts and seat clamp top head. I also figured out that I put too long of a length on the threads to the point it would push on the barrel as it threaded in, so I pulled them out before going too far and trimmed about 5mm off the boat threads. Went together nicely, the grab and tug test in the garage shows no noise, and was easily able to get to the states 7nm of torque. The true test will be on the trail, as soon as it gets below 110° and I can get out for a ride!

Before mounting the saddle and adjusting:










After install and removing the tubing from bolt heads:



















While this wasn't difficult, still a f*cking joke to have to do this on a $400 seat post, "the best ever" according to every mtb rag that touches it.


----------



## Glenngineer (Mar 4, 2014)

I have 3 Bikeyokes in the fleet, haven't had any issues with broken parts or creaking... Getting a little noise on one recently, but it's on a 3 year old saddle I've basically worn the cover off of, so I think it's more in the rail to seat frame interface.


In more positive news - I could have sworn I saw a Revive 215 add, probably on Pinkbike. I can't find it now, Google shows nothing, Bikeyoke site quite. Did I totally make that up?


----------



## MX9799 (Feb 11, 2018)

blaklabl said:


> Too hot to ride outside, might as well tackle this....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


blaklabl,
I see you have an arrow on the top part of the seat clamp that I'm assuming you use to make sure the top clamp is positioned the correct way. How do you know which side is supposed to point towards the front of the bike? That part looks pretty darn symmetrical to me.

Sucks to hear you guys are having noise issues with your bike yoke posts. I have two Revive 160's that both started out making a little bit of noise, but a good cleaning and putting a thin film of grease on all of the parts where there is metal-metal contact fixed it right up and they've been solid ever since.


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

keep rechecking torque on those...as you ride and mash down the heatshrink it'll loosen

fwiw revive = no creaks on mine


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

MX9799 said:


> blaklabl,
> I see you have an arrow on the top part of the seat clamp that I'm assuming you use to make sure the top clamp is positioned the correct way. How do you know which side is supposed to point towards the front of the bike? That part looks pretty darn symmetrical to me.


You are correct, I believe that top piece is symmetrical, I drew that arrow on it when I disassembled it to make sure it went back on as it came off but it wasn't needed. The bottom half of the clamp is not though, and I make sure the "longer part" of the rails points towards the back, per Sacki's comments.


----------



## MX9799 (Feb 11, 2018)

blaklabl said:


> You are correct, I believe that top piece is symmetrical, I drew that arrow on it when I disassembled it to make sure it went back on as it came off but it wasn't needed. The bottom half of the clamp is not though, and I make sure the "longer part" of the rails points towards the back, per Sacki's comments.


Gotcha. Thanks man. Hope your creaking is fixed.


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

blaklabl said:


> You are correct, I believe that top piece is symmetrical, I drew that arrow on it when I disassembled it to make sure it went back on as it came off but it wasn't needed. The bottom half of the clamp is not though, and I make sure the "longer part" of the rails points towards the back, per Sacki's comments.


There was a running change on the top piece, the early ones were definitely not symmetrical and were significantly offset.


----------



## Glenngineer (Mar 4, 2014)

I knew it!

https://m.pinkbike.com/news/bikeyoke-updates-and-extends-the-revive-dropper-post.html


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Glenngineer said:


> I knew it!
> 
> https://m.pinkbike.com/news/bikeyoke-updates-and-extends-the-revive-dropper-post.html


Gonna contact sacki about the new one piece upper to replace mine so I have no worry about possibly crack/failure.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Glenngineer said:


> I knew it!
> 
> https://m.pinkbike.com/news/bikeyoke-updates-and-extends-the-revive-dropper-post.html


Even better there is the usp (update service program) for a limited time servicing will update your post to the latest spec. I hope that program stays in place until winter as I dont want to take my post out of service right now.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> Because apparently we are "whining" and the post is perfect as is.
> 
> There have been improvements to the clamp mechanism, mostly around the bolts and washers, but it still creaks. It's a faulty design having to do with the barrel nuts and their cradle, that area just collects dust and dirt and it doesn't take but a ride or so before it starts creaking after adding anti-seize.
> 
> I looked at the J&L part on eBay, still trying to wrap my head around how it would work. Would be great if we could get a picture of it mounted on the BY.


I never said anyone is "whining", but I do always treat every customer with the same respect in return, which I am given. I know you are not happy with your creaking issue, but as I said many times before, this is unusual, as we now have over 50,000 posts in the market and we only hear about craking issues only once in a while. You may believe it or not, this is not a systmativ issue, as you keep saying.
We have given you the most recent update on your post. You got a REVIVE 2.0 (now I can name it) months ahead of its official release (yesterday) and you still have the issue. I don't know, what to do anymore in your specific case. I am truly sorry.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

zagnuts said:


> Hi folks -
> 
> We have a creaking or squeak or sound or loose seat and with torque wrench at 7nm we attempted to tighten and found could not get to torque spec and further inspection found the upper saddle clamp cracked at both sides. The line is faint but you can see it in the photo? To me the upper saddle clamp design is nice but material of construction is inadequate.
> 
> ...


Not sure, why you think that, but the upper clamp is not close to being a die cast part, niether is the material inadequate.

The upper clamp is a forged part, made of 6060-T6 series aluminum.

However, we did see some issues with some clamps, but let me explain to you in detail.
There are three different versions of upper clamps:

1. The first geenration upper clamp was non-symmetrical. Never had a single issue with the clamp, but we found customers did not always pay attention to the correct orientation as shown in the manual. This would lead in different forces applied to the post head due to different leverages and could cause structural failures.

2. The next generation of upper clamps (introduced with DIVINE SL) we symmetrical, and we did not see any issues, but when over-tightened, the clamps could bend and in the worst case get a crack in the middle. I belive this applies to your case. Again-not a problem of the clamp itself, but we also wanted to consider over-tightening. We can not say for sure, if the clamps were not also affected by a manufacturing issue, because we found some of them showed some spots, where material seemed to "fold" together instead of being thoroughly forged.
Any customer who reported this issue received replacement F.O.C.

3. We updated the forging mould and made the design even stronger and this resembles now the current series production piece.
You can see the v2 (up) vs. v3 (down) below:










@ zagnuts: Shoot me an e-mail @ [email protected] and we will get it sorted for you.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

...Edit: Not worth it. I have issues with my post that have not been addressed and apparently never will be.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> we


Hello! )

Could you (or anyone else) please tell me why Revive is she? ))

https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/info/bikeyoke-update-service-program.html


> REVIVE and have taken good care of *her*


----------



## zagnuts (Aug 14, 2020)

*thanks I hope! Sent you a note.*



sacki said:


> Not sure, why you think that, but the upper clamp is not close to being a die cast part, niether is the material inadequate.
> 
> The upper clamp is a forged part, made of 6060-T6 series aluminum.
> 
> ...


Hi Sacki - good to see your note and learn some more. I dropped you an email. Thanks.


----------



## onlybirdman (Feb 12, 2015)

Hi, just installed my Revive 2.0. Few questions:

Q1. When resetting, you're suppose to keep the valve open while the post travel from full extend to full compressed, and then closed the valve. Correct?

Q2. What's the rule on hanging the bike from the saddle? Absolute no-no? Acceptable as long as it is fully extended? Acceptable but only for a brief moment such as hang scale but not for storage?

Q3. The cable tension. I'm using Wolftooth ReMote, and the lever stroke is longer than my liking. Any restrictions on pre-tensioning the cable to reduce stroke as long as it still locks in place when in use? I ask because I had another older post that require near zero cable tension when at rest, but the REVIVE manual doesn't talk about that, and I rather not make false assumptions.

Thanks!


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Q1: Bascially yes. You do not have to fully compress it all the way down though. Most of the time it is enough to compress just a little bit. If it keeps being a little squshy, following might help. rop the post about 75% and let it rest for a few minutes. This will ut some extra pressure on the oil. Then do the reset from there all the way down.

Q2: You may hang the bike on the saddle or lift you bike on the saddle. Both, compressed and extended are OK. Just don't intentionally force-extend the post.

Q3: Cable tension should be set to have no slack in the cable. You can give a little bit of pre-tension. Too much and you set the main valve very close to just open and the o-ring might be on the edge of the piston, which will make it wear faster.


----------



## onlybirdman (Feb 12, 2015)

@sacki, thank you for the quick reply. So far I'm very happy with the way my REVIVE feels, can't wait to put some miles on it.


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

I thought my Bike Yoke post was awesome until I saw how quickly it took for it to turn to crap. Also making it less awesome: The fact I have to pay over $100 to get the post overhauled for a warranty part that could seriously injure me. Also not cool: Bike Yoke not owning up to the problem instead of blaming forum members. I have three posts, which makes this three times the problem I really don't want to deal with.

What are you going to do about all of those who bought posts within the past year? Screw us out of money because you'll make us get it serviced to fix a bad engineering problem you can't own up to?

I can't believe that I have to pay an authorized service center (mainly BTI) to replace a part Bike Yoke shouldn't haven't even gotten past QC.

Instead, you're willing to risk injury, and especially in the US, you're asking to get yourselves sued out of business by treating customers like crash test dummies instead of being thorough.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

stripes said:


> I thought my Bike Yoke post was awesome until I saw how quickly it took for it to turn to crap. Also making it less awesome: The fact I have to pay over $100 to get the post overhauled for a warranty part that could seriously injure me. Also not cool: Bike Yoke not owning up to the problem instead of blaming forum members. I have three posts, which makes this three times the problem I really don't want to deal with.
> 
> What are you going to do about all of those who bought posts within the past year? Screw us out of money because you'll make us get it serviced to fix a bad engineering problem you can't own up to?
> 
> ...


Details sparky, you are talking about replacing a part but what are you referring to?

As far as servicing something goes how much do you pay for your fork service? Personally I do all the servicing on my bike parts myself to avoid the excessive bike servicing fees. And I love buying new tools.


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

006_007 said:


> Details sparky, you are talking about replacing a part but what are you referring to?
> 
> As far as servicing something goes how much do you pay for your fork service? Personally I do all the servicing on my bike parts myself to avoid the excessive bike servicing fees. And I love buying new tools.


The upper head--you know the one that sheared off and stabbed a poor guy and he had to go to the hospital. The one that you have to pay to service the post to get it the replacement part.

They want you go to through the distributor to get the part and do the servicing: if you do the work yourself, you can't get the replacement part unless you pay for it.

It's not worth risking getting hurt on someone's shitty engineering. If you want to, that's your call.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

stripes said:


> The upper head--you know the one that sheared off and stabbed a poor guy and he had to go to the hospital. The one that you have to pay to service the post to get it the replacement part.
> 
> They want you go to through the distributor to get the part and do the servicing: if you do the work yourself, you can't get the replacement part unless you pay for it.
> 
> It's not worth risking getting hurt on someone's shitty engineering. If you want to, that's your call.


So your three posts have developed cracks or have failed and they have done nothing about it?

I admit I keep a close eye on mine, but it has not shown any problems as of yet.

My local service center isn't accepting new clients, so I will just purchase the new head when its available (hopefully that is before mine starts to develop a problem)


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

006_007 said:


> So your three posts have developed cracks or have failed and they have done nothing about it?
> 
> I admit I keep a close eye on mine, but it has not shown any problems as of yet.
> 
> My local service center isn't accepting new clients, so I will just purchase the new head when its available (hopefully that is before mine starts to develop a problem)


I'm pretty hard on parts (I've broken two droppers before), that I'm not willing to risk it with a known problem that has sent someone to the hospital.

If you are, that's your call.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

stripes said:


> I'm pretty hard on parts (I've broken two droppers before), that I'm not willing to risk it with a known problem that has sent someone to the hospital.
> 
> If you are, that's your call.


So none of your three have developed cracks yet then?

From what I have seen in the pictures of the failed post it was multi-cycle fatigue - not a one hit single cycle failure. I am willing to check the area of the post that has had a minimal amount of failures and if there is any indication of cracking I would not use it.

However so far my pre ride inspections have not shown any early signs of failure, so I am still comfortable using the post.

Would I ride it for 6 months without checking. Hell no. Does it hurt to complete my due diligence and check my bike before rides? Nope, I find it kinda therapeutic.

And if you are looking for bike parts that have never failed and sent someone to hospital then good luck with pretty much any sport.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

stripes said:


> I thought my Bike Yoke post was awesome until I saw how quickly it took for it to turn to crap. Also making it less awesome: The fact I have to pay over $100 to get the post overhauled for a warranty part that could seriously injure me. Also not cool: Bike Yoke not owning up to the problem instead of blaming forum members. I have three posts, which makes this three times the problem I really don't want to deal with.
> 
> What are you going to do about all of those who bought posts within the past year? Screw us out of money because you'll make us get it serviced to fix a bad engineering problem you can't own up to?
> 
> ...


I find it amazing, how people think, we want to screw anyone out of money. It feels like we are a conspiracy company, that only means to be there to harm people. 
The USP program is simply there for customers, who want the updated version of the REVIVE without having to byu a complete new one.
No one tells you you have to update your post.
We simply knew, that people would ask for it, because the same happened when we announced the Microvalve. People contacted us and asked, if it was possible to get the Microvalve into their post.
So what did we do? We had the Microvalve retrofitted free of charge through our service centers for every REVIVE that came in for a full service. And we still do. If a REVIVE comes in for a rebuild and it doesn't have the Microvalve, we will still update it. We did not make a big deal out of it, we simply considered it as a nice gesture.
Now that we officially offer it in the beginning - to be ahead of asking customers - some people just think we do it to make money. Incredbile.
No one forces you to do it, it is just an offer to the people - who we know are there - want to have the latest update of anything.

I am not sure what to say anymore. I have explained myself about everything for so many times and I am really tired of it. It is exhausting. I would only repeat myself again and again. Everything I needed to say, I already did. And I think I explained more than you would get to hear it from any (or hardly any) other company.
People start to throw in material discussions or wrongly accuse us of using the wrong material or production method without even knowing, what they are talking about (see comment from Zagnuts about die casting and clamp material). People start taking this for serious and then you will find it in other threads and so on. It is a potential source of wrong information.
From now on I will not openly comment on this anymore here in this thread. I am really sorry, but I am tired of it. I am not running away, I am just tired of telling the same thing over and over again.

I am happy to answer any deeper question personally. We have a phone number and we have an e-mail address where people can contact us/me, if they want to know more.


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

sacki said:


> I find it amazing, how people think, we want to screw anyone out of money. It feels like we are a conspiracy company, that only means to be there to harm people.
> The USP program is simply there for customers, who want the updated version of the REVIVE without having to byu a complete new one.
> No one tells you you have to update your post.
> We simply knew, that people would ask for it, because the same happened when we announced the Microvalve. People contacted us and asked, if it was possible to get the Microvalve into their post.
> ...


Let me give you my perspective. I have two posts (they came with two new MTB frames) I bought a couple of months ago, and I see pictures of sheared heads off, and reports of one guy going to the hospital and two of them hitting themselves in the nuts. We are in a pandemic, and having a trip to the hospital from a sheared off post (I'm aware that mountain biking is not risk free), but this is not something I'm willing to risk.

In order to get the part that's less likely to shear off, I have to pay to overhaul my post to an authorized service center to get a part that should be warrantied for free.

I have no problem paying for a service on a year old post--that's expected. It's the ones that are only a handful of months old that I don't think is serving your customers right.

So if you're willing to fully warranty those posts that I don't have to pay for the service on two barely used ones, then I'm ok with it. I was told otherwise by the service center, and that my LBS (who I trust more than a random service center) couldn't do the maintenance.

Basically, it comes down to, as a customer, I should not have to pay to fix a faulty part. If you can remedy that on two posts that are only a few months old, hit me up in a PM.


----------



## SoCal-Rider (May 25, 2009)

stripes said:


> Let me give you my perspective. I have two posts (they came with two new MTB frames) I bought a couple of months ago, and I see pictures of sheared heads off, and reports of one guy going to the hospital and two of them hitting themselves in the nuts. We are in a pandemic, and having a trip to the hospital from a sheared off post (I'm aware that mountain biking is not risk free), but this is not something I'm willing to risk.
> 
> In order to get the part that's less likely to shear off, I have to pay to overhaul my post to an authorized service center to get a part that should be warrantied for free.
> 
> ...


You're beating a dead horse. Sounds like Sacki firmly believes there isn't a design/safety issue. You're not going to get a free replacement. Either you sell your Bike Yoke posts and replace them with something different or you take Bike Yoke up on their retrofit offer for less than the cost of a new post. If you're truly afraid for your nether regions, then stop riding the Bike Yoke and move on.


----------



## skywalker991 (Feb 18, 2017)

*Revive maintenance*

Hi,

I've had my revive for about 2yrs and when it works it's great. However, dirt gets inside way to easy which ends the smooth operation and leaves grey sticky residue on the stanchion. Regardless what conditions I ride to keep the smooth action I have to do lower tube service every 20h or so of riding. As much as I like the post I'm sick of babysitting it. Never had problems with Fox transfer but went for Revive because of its low stack.

Seems that dirt goes in through the "breathing" holes at the bottom of the post where the cable connect to the post. The sponge that supposed to prevent dirt going in is soaked in dirt whenever I do lowers service and grey grime is all over insides. I follow service instructions and use buzzy's honey slick.

Does anyone have the same problem? And a solution?

I'm sick of constantly doing lower leg service. I appreciate the service can be done in 30min but I shouldn't be forced to do it so often.

Thanks


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

Hey Skywalker,

May I ask, what frame you are using?
It is not common for the post to collect dirt from the bottom. 
However, one of the things that we regularly see causing issues is water in the frame.
What I want to say: If the post collects dirt from the bottom, it needs to get this dirt from somewhere.
There are frames that collect a lot of water from washing or riding in dirty conditions and if this water cant't drain, it will eventually be able to get to the post, once you put the bike upside down.
Which grease are you using for lubrication and do you use any other lubricants to keep the post operating smoothly?


----------



## skywalker991 (Feb 18, 2017)

sacki said:


> Hey Skywalker,
> 
> May I ask, what frame you are using?
> It is not common for the post to collect dirt from the bottom.
> ...


Thanks for a quick reply

I'm on Devinci Spartan 2018 XL. I was thinking along the same lines re. water but there is no way I can prevent water & mud touching the dropper, inside or outside. The post ends in the frame with a few inches space from the bottom so technically should be ok with any potential water and mud in the frame.

I've done lower leg service a week ago before a trip to Scotland, and yes it was a bit muddy. Now I'm back and dropper needs another service. It gets a bit silly...feels like babysitting a dropper.

I'm using buzzy's slick honey as per official service manual


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

sacki said:


> Hey Skywalker,
> 
> May I ask, what frame you are using?
> It is not common for the post to collect dirt from the bottom.
> ...


Yeah Skywalker, it's most likely YOUR frame or a problem on YOUR end somewhere, not the fault of the BikeYoke Revive post.


----------



## sacki (Apr 15, 2017)

OK, I am sorry guys, but I think I am done here.
It doesn't matter, what I say or do anymore, it will always be wrong and some people are just waiting for me to say something, just so they can troll me.
If you have any questions or need help, we are there via e-mail or phone, but I will not reply here anymore.


----------



## toyotachaos (Sep 6, 2009)

sacki said:


> OK, I am sorry guys, but I think I am done here.
> It doesn't matter, what I say or do anymore, it will always be wrong and some people are just waiting for me to say something, just so they can troll me.
> If you have any questions or need help, we are there via e-mail or phone, but I will not reply here anymore.


Sorry to see you go. Your posts have been more than helpful for me and although I never spoke up, I appreciate all the insight and thorough explanations. 
I own three Revive posts at the moment. Also looking to add a Revive Max for another new bike build.


----------



## onlybirdman (Feb 12, 2015)

sacki said:


> OK, I am sorry guys, but I think I am done here.
> It doesn't matter, what I say or do anymore, it will always be wrong and some people are just waiting for me to say something, just so they can troll me.
> If you have any questions or need help, we are there via e-mail or phone, but I will not reply here anymore.


Dear Sacki,

I'm new to my Bike Yoke REVIVE, and one of the reasons I bought my REVIVE is because of the online forum community support. This is of course a small reason. The bigger reason I bought my REVIVE is because of the positive reviews from websites and forums. This thread in particular is tremendous where you organize all tips and info at the top of the posts. It takes a lot of time and effort to keep track of it all, while also timely replies everyone with their questions.

I'm an engineer myself and I frequently get ask to troubleshoot some unknown problems at some far away land where the only info I get is a short email or a blurry photo. While the only data you get is the words of the end user. The questions you asked are fair, is the same when we call tech support during internet outages and the tech support asked us if the modem is plugged in. You have to get through all the "is your modem plugged in" type questions before diving into a problem. (Not picking on a specific problem, just in general).

Your engagement in the forums is greatly appreciated, unfortunately some of the comments are not value adding and certainly getting toxic. Lots of armchair engineers out here treat their speculations as facts and would argue with anyone they come across. When the vocal minorities get you down, I hope you'll remember the silent majorities that are enjoying your products on the daily basis without making a fuss.

I support your decision to stop replying here. Hope the time saved will yield more trail time for you and high quality products for us.

Best wishes.


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

troubleshooting with bozos on a forum is problematic

paying customers opening an issue directly with the manufacturer is the proper way to get things sorted

works in nearly all situations...from security software to bags of plastic clips


----------



## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

sacki said:


> OK, I am sorry guys, but I think I am done here.
> It doesn't matter, what I say or do anymore, it will always be wrong and some people are just waiting for me to say something, just so they can troll me.
> If you have any questions or need help, we are there via e-mail or phone, but I will not reply here anymore.


Thank you for your support, most of us appreciated it and learned a lot about our posts. It's too bad that some people let their problems become everybody's problem and screw up a good thing.


----------



## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

A few Karens spoil a good thing. Can’t say that I blame Sacki for his decision. He lasted way longer than I would have had I been in his shoes. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

I’ll add another positive rep for Sacki. I was having an issue with a service center, and instead of making me continue to deal with them, he handled the problem himself. That earns him a heap load of respect. 

What he does need is some help in dealing with the public—not because he can’t but because of the volume of questions. There’s no way he has the time to sit on the boards here or anywhere else and do his job. I haven’t commented before, out of Sacki’s request, but I think it’s fair for others to know. I cannot publish the resolution, but I can tell you he works to make things right.


----------



## militantmandy (May 21, 2020)

*Revive soft almost every ride*

Sorry if it's been covered already, but there is a LOT of information in this thread! My GF's revive seems to be soft almost every ride now. Using the reset works every time, (so far) but this definitely doesn't seem right. It's just about a year old.

Any ideas why it might be doing this and how to remedy?


----------



## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

militantmandy said:


> Sorry if it's been covered already, but there is a LOT of information in this thread! My GF's revive seems to be soft almost every ride now. Using the reset works every time, (so far) but this definitely doesn't seem right. It's just about a year old.
> 
> Any ideas why it might be doing this and how to remedy?


Most likely time for a service.


----------



## militantmandy (May 21, 2020)

Fair enough I guess. Other than that it works perfectly, so worth doing. I see TF Tuned sell a 100hour service kit. I'll maybe give that a go.

Cheers!


----------



## skywalker991 (Feb 18, 2017)

militantmandy said:


> Sorry if it's been covered already, but there is a LOT of information in this thread! My GF's revive seems to be soft almost every ride now. Using the reset works every time, (so far) but this definitely doesn't seem right. It's just about a year old.
> 
> Any ideas why it might be doing this and how to remedy?


It's downhill from here if your GF says it's soft ;-)


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

blaklabl said:


> Yeah Skywalker, it's most likely YOUR frame or a problem on YOUR end somewhere, not the fault of the BikeYoke Revive post.


Great, now instead of getting potential solutions we are left with your ongoing whinging. Didn't you say you were going to leave? Oh ya, you conveniently edited that message.

Sacki - easy solution is to block blaklabl. Doing it after I hit submit and it takes a lot of the negativity out of this thread.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

https://forums.mtbr.com/profile.php?do=addlist&userlist=ignore&u=537821


----------



## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

Close to a year on the post and today it finally gave me serious issues. Read through whole thread and only found one person with similar issue, but no solution.
- Issue started slowly, where could not engage trigger if seated far back on seat (seat is slammed back if this matters). I would have to lean forward for trigger to engage to be able to drop.
- Eventually, I had to unweigh the seat to be able to pull the trigger. If there was weight on the seat, I simply could not pull the trigger to engage the dropper.
- Went out for a ride today, and immediately the seat started binding on the way down only. Could not engage trigger easily even unweighted. Trigger would eventually engage, but I would have to use A LOT of force to get it to drop. Return seemed to be working properly.

Where do I start? I had a few Reverbs bend years ago, but typically they would bind on way up more than down. Is slamming the seat back really that bad for this post? I got a Fall Line R on another bike that I could add a setback head onto. I really like the 185 drop though, so am hoping it is a semi-simple fix. Any help would be appreciated.

EDIT:




I took out the post to make sure it wasn't a cable issue. Definitely wasn't, so I ran some tests. As you can see in the video above, the post will NOT drop unless the weight is pushing down on middle or nose of saddle.

Bent post or bad bushings?? This is pretty disappointing given the cost, no crash, and living in Florida mostly XC'ish miles on it. Start a warranty claim, or is this fixable at home?


----------



## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

Added this video to my post above. The oly way to make post drop is by putting pressure on nose or front of saddle.


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

GatorXman said:


> Added this video to my post above. The oly way to make post drop is by putting pressure on nose or front of saddle.


clearly in your video you show it works fine

when pushing in center and directly in line with the post itself, which is how you are supposed to drop it anyway

from the manual:

LOWERING AND RAISING THE SADDLE
To lower the saddle, push the trigger and then weight the saddle firmly by hand or by sitting on it. *Apply force only in the direction of the seat tube axis,* as this will ensure smoothest action and reduce wear of pins and bushings inside the post.


----------



## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

127.0.0.1 said:


> clearly in your video you show it works fine
> 
> when pushing in center and directly in line with the post itself, which is how you are supposed to drop it anyway
> 
> ...


I don't understand the logic here. Gravity does not pull my weight "in the direction of the seat tub axis". Where I live, gravity pulls me straight down as shown in video. I was trying to show the issue without having to sit on the bike. The seat no longer drops from my body weight unless I reposition myself way forward on the saddle. I've never had to scoot my ass this far forward to drop a seat before, including with this dropper for the last year.

Does this mean that I have worn out the pins and bushings by letting my body weight lower my seat not in the direction of seat tube axis?


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

GatorXman said:


> I don't understand the logic here. Gravity does not pull my weight "in the direction of the seat tub axis". Where I live, gravity pulls me straight down as shown in video. I was trying to show the issue without having to sit on the bike. The seat no longer drops from my body weight unless I reposition myself way forward on the saddle. I've never had to scoot my ass this far forward to drop a seat before, including with this dropper for the last year.
> 
> Does this mean that I have worn out the pins and bushings by letting my body weight lower my seat not in the direction of seat tube axis?


stand up a bit/pressure on feets...and drop saddle and direct the butt pressure in line with the seat post is it easy and how droppers work

if you just push lever and sit straight down and not inline with the seat post, you are gonna wear out any dropper

you want a dropper that can take pressure from any direction, you'll need to find a far crappier dropper


----------



## christiancaron (Jan 7, 2018)

GatorXman said:


> Does this mean that I have worn out the pins and bushings by letting my body weight lower my seat not in the direction of seat tube axis?


Possible water infiltrated from the bottom (water in the frame) which corroded the internals. Happened to me. The dropper started acting up, being difficult to lower (similar to your experience). Left it there all winter with the intention to make a service in the Spring, but it was ceased. Had to send it back for warranty.


----------



## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

christiancaron said:


> Possible water infiltrated from the bottom (water in the frame) which corroded the internals. Happened to me. The dropper started acting up, being difficult to lower (similar to your experience). Left it there all winter with the intention to make a service in the Spring, but it was ceased. Had to send it back for warranty.


Awe man, this is likely it. Rode in rain a couple weeks ago and washed bike after. Hung bike on rack without letting it drain, and when I took it down last weekend a bunch of water drained out.


----------



## christiancaron (Jan 7, 2018)

GatorXman said:


> Awe man, this is likely it. Rode in rain a couple weeks ago and washed bike after. Hung bike on rack without letting it drain, and when I took it down last weekend a bunch of water drained out.


When I get back from a wet ride or wash the bike, I now remove dropper and empty frame. Then I hang it by the rear tire for a day or two (instead of the front one, which drives any water left directly in the post). You should dismantle the dropper right away, don't procrastinate because it will get stuck and will require special tools/products to get both parts apart. Not a difficult task to take the stanchion out of the sleeve. Clean, grease and reassemble.


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

This is why I still a ⅛" hole in the bottom of every new frame I get, including carbon ones. The little puddle under a bike after washing is very telling.


----------



## skywalker991 (Feb 18, 2017)

christiancaron said:


> When I get back from a wet ride or wash the bike, I now remove dropper and empty frame. Then I hang it by the rear tire for a day or two (instead of the front one, which drives any water left directly in the post). You should dismantle the dropper right away, don't procrastinate because it will get stuck and will require special tools/products to get both parts apart. Not a difficult task to take the stanchion out of the sleeve. Clean, grease and reassemble.


God lord, that's bike babysitting on another level. Are you seriously telling me that you remove the dropper after every wet ride or wash?? Following this logic I would have to do that after every ride in Scotland / UK. But even if you do that you still have a problem of water in your frame contaminating dropper during the ride. Do you stop mid ride to drain water from the frame? Actually, don't answer it.

My personal experience with BikeYoke is that it's super sensitive to dirt and water getting in from the bottom of the dropper where it has air holes. I had other droppers and BikeYoke revive is by far the worst in this regard. To the point where you need to do a service after a couple of wet rides. And no, service isn't particularly difficult but still takes 30min when you have tools and know the process ...which is 30min too many, especially when it's required every week / month. I want to ride my bike not babysit my dropper post.


----------



## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

It was definitely water and dirt intrusion from washing the bike. Did a quick teardown of the post (SUPER easy...good job Bike Yoke), cleaned and greased everything, put it back together and now works like the first day.

Will get service kit and install it when it comes in, but for now its good to go. Will make mental note to let bikes drain good before hanging vertically on rack.

Thanks guys


----------



## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Just a heads up that the upgrade program for old Revive owners is open until Oct 31th.

https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/info/bikeyoke-update-service-program.html

I filled the form and today received the service tag number. Now I'm waiting for the reply from service center.


----------



## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

following


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Rotated for how much?

All the dropper posts have rotation at upper tube, tiny rotation.


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Got a new frame, and a mangled the dropper cable when uninstalling from old frame.
I need a new cable and housing.
Dumb question? Can I order just any dropper cable/housing?
I see one from jagwire on Amazon for 20 bucks. Will this work? 
I still have the connector for the end that clamps to the cable with the hex tool, so just need cable and housing.


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

I use a stainless gear cable and some brake housing. It offers a little less friction and more flexibility with the routing. Dropper posts aren't troubled by housing compression the same way gears are.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Yup, new Jagwire kit with their new 0.8 mm cable would be perfect.


----------



## MaxCatMDWV (Oct 30, 2020)

*Weird Looking Foam Washer*

Bought a carbon Transition Sentinel in January and put somewhere over 500 miles on it since. Seat stopped coming all the way up; tried silicon lube on the shape, bumped the air to 300psi - no luck. Just did the lower service and found foam washer to look much different than I thought. This seems very different than the folks who said their's was just dirty. #1 - Do other folks' look disintegrated like this one? If my dropper build ends up eating these washers I find it highly annoying that I'll need to buy a $24 repair kit just to get this washer. I don't see the dimensions of the washer online... #2 - anyone know so I can try to source from elsewhere? Thank you!


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

MaxCatMDWV said:


> , bumped the air to 300psi - no luck.


Why not 500? )

Isn't supposed to be 260?

As for foam for all those who wants their foam washer back in business - place foam washer to some degreaser (I use Stoddard solvent - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit ) and wash it with your fingers for few seconds, it'll get its form back
or
just find the same thickness foam in any HomeSupply store and a oair of scissors


----------



## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

MaxCatMDWV said:


> #1 - Do other folks' look disintegrated like this one? If my dropper build ends up eating these washers I find it highly annoying that I'll need to buy a $24 repair kit just to get this washer. I don't see the dimensions of the washer online... #2 - anyone know so I can try to source from elsewhere? Thank you!


Mine was worse looking than yours. I tried cleaning and re-using it, but it was a waste of time. Tried making my own from some open cell foam I had. Didn't work so well.

I agree, and have mentioned it before, that having to buy a whole service kit for the 1 part that gets worn is ridiculous.

I had planned to take some measurements and get some better foam that matches the new one from the service kit I bought. But ended up just installing it and going for a ride.


----------



## MaxCatMDWV (Oct 30, 2020)

ka81ua said:


> Why not 500? ) -  stupid comment.
> 
> Isn't supposed to be 260? Read the manual.
> 
> As for foam - just find the same thickness foam in any HomeSupply store and a oair of scissors


 - Not what I asked.


----------



## MaxCatMDWV (Oct 30, 2020)

69tr6r said:


> Mine was worse looking than yours. I tried cleaning and re-using it, but it was a waste of time. Tried making my own from some open cell foam I had. Didn't work so well.
> 
> I agree, and have mentioned it before, that having to buy a whole service kit for the 1 part that gets worn is ridiculous.
> 
> I had planned to take some measurements and get some better foam that matches the new one from the service kit I bought. But ended up just installing it and going for a ride.


I'll let you know what I find - we've got to be able to source these from somewhere else. I'll reach out to Bike Yoke since it looks like this forum turned them off of responding directly here. Cheers! 🍻


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

sacki said:


> 2. All relevant specs can also be found on our website. Just go to the arctile description of any REVIVE dropper post, then to "Maintenance" and/or "Documents".


https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-160.html
MAINTENANCE tab


> LINK to service and maintenance plan
> Information about recommended lubrication products: LINK


Both LINK don't work anymore...

https://bikeyoke.gambiocloud.com/media/products/droppers - service schedule (EN).pdf

https://bikeyoke.gambiocloud.com/media/products/BikeYoke - dropper oil specs.pdf

Both leading to main page.


----------



## MaxCatMDWV (Oct 30, 2020)

69tr6r said:


> I had planned to take some measurements and get some better foam that matches the new one from the service kit I bought. But ended up just installing it and going for a ride.


From Bike Yoke (this answered my question).
The foam ring dimensions are:
"OD = 26mm
ID = 7.5mm
t = 5mm (but t is not really important, you just need to make sue air
can flow easily)."

69tr6r - DM if you want to discuss the rest of my dialogue with Sacki! 酪


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Just bought new service kit BikeYoke Service Kit for Revive Seatpost as of 03/2017 / 2.0 / Divine - Type 2
https://www.bike-components.de/en/B...-2-0-Divine-p64554/?o=101940-universal-type-2


----------



## goalieken (Jan 21, 2014)

*V3 service kit*

Hey (@sacki )

Does anyone know if the V3 service kit is any different than the V2? I assume it has to be but I cant seem to find anyone that carries it in the US.

Thanks.


----------



## christiancaron (Jan 7, 2018)

arnea said:


> I filled the form and today received the service tag number. Now I'm waiting for the reply from service center.


Where are you located? Did you hear back from your service center? Unfortunately, I'm in Canada and it seems BikeYoke doesn't get much support around here... The previous service center (within driving distance to me) stopped their relationship with them and the only one left is at the other side of the country (not sure BikeYoke realize how large Canada is). To boot, the other service center (Wheelthings) doesn't answer emails and indicates they are not taking new customers due to pandemic. Way to go BikeYoke. For once a company was standing behind their products and offering a solution for design issues, I'm stuck in the process... BikeYoke told me they would not ship the parts to me although I can do the work (didn't mind paying for the shipping). Not sure I made the right choice after all...


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

christiancaron said:


> they are not taking new customers due to pandemic. Way to go BikeYoke.


seriously?!.. ))


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

ka81ua said:


> seriously?!.. ))


Yup. Wheelthing is aledgedly the one I am supposed to use and the clown won't respond to emails or answer the phone.


----------



## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

christiancaron said:


> Where are you located? Did you hear back from your service center?


I'm in Estonia and closest service center is in Germany. Just today received back the upgraded post. Shipping took long time both ways and maintenance took also longer then they first said.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

arnea said:


> I'm in Estonia and closest service center is in Germany. Just today received back the upgraded post. Shipping took long time both ways and maintenance took also longer then they first said.


Still faster than wheelthing which is a 45min drive from my door. May end up sending it to Germany instead.


----------



## 4212darren (Nov 15, 2005)

Didn’t read the 30 pages to see what, if any, solutions to limiting seat post travel for those of us with short legs.
Actually I read about the guy that did it with the 10 mm tube, internally but I needed a simple solution.
Works great once you get the correct height set.


----------



## 4212darren (Nov 15, 2005)




----------



## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

Trigger started sticking and returning slowly after a couple wet days, so I figured new housing, cable, and service (with kit) would get me back to normal, but it didn’t. 

The cam that pushes the rod was a bit dirty, so I cleaned and lubed it, which helped a little bit, but not much. 

Any ideas what else to try? Need to figure out what’s causing trigger to stick. Seat drops and returns as it should, but trigger gets caught engaged.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

GatorXman said:


> Trigger started sticking and returning slowly after a couple wet days, so I figured new housing, cable, and service (with kit) would get me back to normal, but it didn't.
> 
> The cam that pushes the rod was a bit dirty, so I cleaned and lubed it, which helped a little bit, but not much.
> 
> Any ideas what else to try? Need to figure out what's causing trigger to stick. Seat drops and returns as it should, but trigger gets caught engaged.


is cable returning fine WITHOUT trigger?


----------



## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> is cable returning fine WITHOUT trigger?


Cable was not returning full speed without trigger (PNW Loam Lever). Ended up cycling it a few dozen times after cleaning and greasing cam and now trigger return speed is back to normal. Not sure where the friction was. Hopefully it doesn't act up again next time I go out in the rain.


----------



## ryanxj (Sep 9, 2011)

AMAZING thread and customer support, kudos to Bike Yoke. I was already in love with the functionality, but their customer support has made me a fan for life.

*Question:* I think I'm due for a full cartridge rebuild. If I researched/assumed correctly, any 15wt suspension fluid will suffice? (Im assuming the '15' in the recommended Mobil product number refers to viscosity)


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

ryanxj said:


> AMAZING thread and customer support, kudos to Bike Yoke. I was already in love with the functionality, but their customer support has made me a fan for life.
> 
> *Question:* I think I'm due for a full cartridge rebuild. If I researched/assumed correctly, any 15wt suspension fluid will suffice? (Im assuming the '15' in the recommended Mobil product number refers to viscosity)


Viscosity is not measured by "weight", this varies significantly from manufacturer to manufacturer. You need CST if you are going to try to match fluid viscosity. There are CST charts out there that have almost all suspension fluids listed, so you can figure it out or choose suitable substitutes.


----------



## christiancaron (Jan 7, 2018)

006_007 said:


> Still faster than wheelthing which is a 45min drive from my door. May end up sending it to Germany instead.


Wrote back to BikeYoke about my communication issues with Wheelthing. They replied within weeks and now I have made contact with Wheelthing. BikeYoke offered a few other options too (US or Taiwan), but you need to contact them if you want to do this. As Wheelthing finally responded, I'll go with them. Their turnaround time is a few days, so I should be back in business in a couple of weeks.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

christiancaron said:


> Wrote back to BikeYoke about my communication issues with Wheelthing. They replied within weeks and now I have made contact with Wheelthing. BikeYoke offered a few other options too (US or Taiwan), but you need to contact them if you want to do this. As Wheelthing finally responded, I'll go with them. Their turnaround time is a few days, so I should be back in business in a couple of weeks.


I am trying to convince sacki to sell me the upper stanchion tube with the new clamp head - but he says they are too technical to do myself.

A shame as I can't seem to give my money to wheelthing - and I would actually rather do it myself as it is ski season so my evenings are free to rebuild forks and droppers once the kids are in bed.


----------



## christiancaron (Jan 7, 2018)

006_007 said:


> I am trying to convince sacki to sell me the upper stanchion tube with the new clamp head - but he says they are too technical to do myself.


Same here, I asked if I could pay shipping for them to send me the parts and I'd do it myself (it's fully serviceable and if I can do that, I don't understand why I wouldn't be able to flip parts at the same time). They don't seem to want to deal with the possible hassle of people saying they can, then they can't and will whine back to BikeYoke to solve the issue. I'm ok with this, I can understand it could become PITA to manage and maybe they also want to drive some local business with their service centres. I'm happy to make someone work for a living as long as I can expect a certain level of service. We'll see how it goes.


----------



## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

christiancaron said:


> They don't seem to want to deal with the possible hassle of people saying they can, then they can't and will whine back to BikeYoke to solve the issue.


As an engineer I agree with that statement. As a Revive owner, I'm ok with it too.


----------



## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

sacki said:


> OK, Differences between DIVINE and REVIVE.......
> 
> .......DIVINE is still at least same, if not better than most other droppers on the market. You will basically only notice a difference, if you´ve felt a REVIVE before.


This is 100% correct. I have had 3 Revives, and now that I needed a longer post (but not quite sure if I could get the whole thing in there and might need travel reduction) I went with a Divine 160. The post is gorgeous, fit and finish are every bit as nice as the Revive, really just a solid piece of equipment. Install was super easy, didn't need to reduce travel, but no regrets (had I known I didn't need the travel reduction, I'd have gotten the Revive in hindsight - that actuator being able to be turned saved me)

If I had never tried a Revive before, the Divine would easily be the nicest and smoothest post I've ever used - if I had never tried a Revive


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

christiancaron said:


> Same here, I asked if I could pay shipping for them to send me the parts and I'd do it myself (it's fully serviceable and if I can do that, I don't understand why I wouldn't be able to flip parts at the same time). They don't seem to want to deal with the possible hassle of people saying they can, then they can't and will whine back to BikeYoke to solve the issue. I'm ok with this, I can understand it could become PITA to manage and maybe they also want to drive some local business with their service centres. I'm happy to make someone work for a living as long as I can expect a certain level of service. We'll see how it goes.


They are willing to sell every other part individually so I don't see what the difference is.

And as far as wanting to drive business with their local service center - wheelthing is the service center for Western Canada , but Jeff won't even return an email or accept new clients as he is so busy- and I refuse to send my post to a service center in America.

Let me know if you make any progress on getting the parts. I am fairly sure the original is ok. I would just rather pay the money to guarantee the head is not gonna snap off.

Edit - wheelthing website now says he has moved to kaslo BC - doesn't look like you can book anything but tours now.


----------



## bigbangus (Oct 28, 2016)

Hi there. I'm having trouble getting full return speed on a revive 160mm after servicing the cartridge myself. Anybody have any experience with this?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Pressure loss ?


----------



## bigbangus (Oct 28, 2016)

ka81ua said:


> Pressure loss ?


no sir. gauge says 260. using a 2 step valve pump as per manual. Even hours after filling.
Also, if I use the reset valve to trigger the return it's super fast (I know this fills the inner tube with air and then you have to reset the inner tube after). So I feel like there is enough pressure and no mechanical drag. 
My gut says piston valve flow restriction but after rebuilding this 4 times and taking apart the piston head, I have no idea how that's possible. It's usable (no sag when pressing with hand), just questionably slowish and really really f-bugging me.


----------



## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Any way to know if my revive 31.6 is version 1 or 2? I need to order the service and o-ring kits, I bought it used in summer of 2019.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

dwyooaj said:


> Any way to know if my revive 31.6 is version 1 or 2? I need to order the service and o-ring kits, I bought it used in summer of 2019.


for now, they've got one uni o-ring service kit for all versions - REVIVE - Dropper - O-Ring Kit

The old type o-ring kits were like:
Type 1:
Seatpost Compatibility: Revive, Revive 2.0
Compatibility Diameter: 30.9 mm, 31.6 mm
Manufacturer Part Number: SEALKIT1

Type 2:
Seatpost Compatibility: Revive MAX 34.9
Compatibility Diameter: 34.9 mm
Manufacturer Part Number: SEALKIT3491

As for other kits - https://www.bikeyoke.de/media/products/REVIVE service kit coding.pdf


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

bigbangus said:


> My gut says piston valve flow restriction but after rebuilding this 4 times and taking apart the piston head, I have no idea how that's possible.


any possibility to have too much of grease anywhere (maybe it clogs up smth? ) ? 
and foam-plate (foam ring) - not clear enough to provide easy air moving through?
just guessing..


----------



## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

ka81ua said:


> for now, they've got one uni o-ring service kit for all versions - REVIVE - Dropper - O-Ring Kit
> 
> The old type o-ring kits were like:
> Type 1:
> ...


well i already ordered from universal cycles, yeah theres just one o ring kit which is my main concern but i just realized i oredered the service kit (wiper foam ring bushing and guide pins)for v1 but my post is apparently a v2 because it has a spring in the wiper. Is that the only diffeerence? if everythting else is teh same i wont bother calling them in teh morning and switching it


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

dwyooaj said:


> well i already ordered from universal cycles, yeah theres just one o ring kit which is my main concern but i just realized i oredered the service kit (wiper foam ring bushing and guide pins)for v1 but my post is apparently a v2 because it has a spring in the wiper. Is that the only diffeerence? if everythting else is teh same i wont bother calling them in teh morning and switching it


I can't actuay answer anything, just guessing: as for "ORING kits" - should be no difference, but as for "dropper serice kis" - may be difference in diametres or else..









REVIVE/DIVINE 30.9/31.6 - Dropper Service Kit


Service kit for 100hr Service (readjusting play and replacing wiper). Please choose the correct service kit for your dropper. There are thre different service kits for the REVIVE/DIVINE 30.9/31.6, depending on model year and version...




www.bikeyoke.de


----------



## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

when refilling air, the manual says to first put the adapter on teh valve and then the pump onto teh adapter. What about removal, remove pump first and then adapter or just remove whole thing at once to not lose any air or oil?


----------



## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Yesterday morning i realized the revive wasnt working, was sagging and the lever at the bar wasnt snapping back. removed the post and unclipped the cable and the actuator was kinda sticking open and moved real rough when i opened and closed it by hand. but then when closed post was still sagging. I ordered everything needed to do a complete service including o-ring kit and a new actuator.
decided in the meantime to take it all apart, clean and grease everything, and put back together and now its working fine! One thing I did notice was that when i pulled out the inner tube the microvalve wasnt in its proper place, wonder if that was the problem or it just moved during disassembly. Also odd is that the tube has one retaining groove for the miicrovalve and not 2 like the video shows, is that right for an early v2? 
Wierd i was sure it needed new orings. unless it has a slow air leak, monitor over the next few days. at least I'll have everything on hand for when need new orings


----------



## jdb10810 (May 5, 2011)

Thanx for this great post / thread!

However i am still having an issue with my Revive. Can someone please help?

I have bought a new bike last year that came with a 34.9mm 160mm Revive dropper. The bike was bought during our lockdown so i wasn't able to ride as much as i would have liked.
when the hard lockdown was lifted i started riding a bit more.
The dropper felt good for the first few rides, but became a sluggish after a few rides and to the point where it doesn't return after a downhill and i had to lift it by hand. If it was pushed in almost all the way and i push it down all the way when i get to the bottom of the DH it returned for a few rides and the it just became unresponsive (at returning).
It was dry during these times so no mud / grit on the stanchions.

I thought it was an air issue and pumped it to 250psi which seemed to work, but only for another ride when halfway through it started happening again.
When connecting the shock pump it indicates a lower pressure (can't remember the reading), but i guess the same rule applies to the post as with forks & shocks that it should give a slightly lower reading because of the air escaping into the pump's pipe.

I thought that there may have been a little oil leakage and that i have to make sure all is good on the inside of the dropper. (well lubed and clean)
Did the full breakdown (which was a breeze thanks to the very nicely detailed videos of how to do so) and went for a ride.
It wasn't dirty at all on the inside and there is still enough grease so all seems fine.

Basically the same story as when the post was new. It worked well for a few rides, but became slower in returning and to the point where it doesn't return at all by pressing the lever. Has to be lifted by hand.

I opened it up again following the video to make 100% sure i did it correctly.
When i inspected the Microvalve it looks like it has a slight damage on its edge. (I will post an image later)
Also it mentions that the lip should face upwards (see attached image), but in the video it appears to face downwards (around the 2:35 mark)

BikeYoke Revive - Full Rebuild

Is this a case of the Schrader Valve leaking air along with faulty O-rings no 17 and 18? (see attached image)

Thanx in advance!

*** Edit - I just took off the saddle & inflated it to 260psi, (removed the pump,) dropped the dropper all the way and when i pressed the lever it only returned about 7-8cm.
It is solid and not spungy at all.

This seems like it's bleeding air into the system.

Should i purchase This Kit and fit all the O-rings and Microvalve?


----------



## christiancaron (Jan 7, 2018)

006_007 said:


> Edit - wheelthing website now says he has moved to kaslo BC - doesn't look like you can book anything but tours now.


Yep, it's really in the middle of nowhere, but I like to take a chance. ;-) Sent my dropper through UPS for $40 on January 8th. UPS couldn't deliver to that address (waaaay out there rural area?), so they offloaded the package to Canada Post. Not sure what happened after that (delivery was attempted and couldn't be made, so a note was left at his house or postal box on January 16th). I emailed him a few days after and he finally got the package on February 2nd. Then I didn't hear back until the dropper showed in the mail yesterday (February 22). He never asked for a payment, although I confirmed earlier by email with him the service was $100 (I will follow-up). Not sure what happened. The dropper was serviced and parts were swapped (new oil, new seals, new upper stanchion/head).


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

christiancaron said:


> Yep, it's really in the middle of nowhere, but I like to take a chance. ;-) Sent my dropper through UPS for $40 on January 8th. UPS couldn't deliver to that address (waaaay out there rural area?), so they offloaded the package to Canada Post. Not sure what happened after that (delivery was attempted and couldn't be made, so a note was left at his house or postal box on January 16th). I emailed him a few days after and he finally got the package on February 2nd. Then I didn't hear back until the dropper showed in the mail yesterday (February 22). He never asked for a payment, although I confirmed earlier by email with him the service was $100 (I will follow-up). Not sure what happened. The dropper was serviced and parts were swapped (new oil, new seals, new upper stanchion/head).


Good to hear - was that organised through sacki or did you go straight through Jeff?

Unfortunately for me I have had zero responses from either and have purchased a oneup post to use.


----------



## christiancaron (Jan 7, 2018)

006_007 said:


> Good to hear - was that organised through sacki or did you go straight through Jeff?


Don't forget it all happened while Jeff was moving to this new place (leaving/selling his Wheelthing business to one of his student and creating his new business bikeroom.ca). I had initially sent an email to Wheelthing and didn't hear back from anyone. I then contacted the USP program at BikeYoke (from which I received the contact information and service number). After a few emails back and forth, they put me in direct contact with Jeff and he answered at that moment. Then it was just a matter of obtaining the address to ship it to and acknowledging the price of the service.


----------



## TazMini (Jun 21, 2019)

Just installed my Revive 213. Been a diehard 9point8 falline guy, but getting tired of slow leaks and fiddly lever setup. So giving BikeYoke a shot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bdreynolds7 (Dec 13, 2019)

How do I know which Revive I have? I bought my Ripmo AF one year ago (March 2020). I'm guessing V1? It has the 2 piece head design, not 1 piece.


----------



## christiancaron (Jan 7, 2018)

bdreynolds7 said:


> How do I know which Revive I have?It has the 2 piece head design, not 1 piece.


You just answered your own question. The v2 has one piece upper shaft and head.


----------



## bdreynolds7 (Dec 13, 2019)

christiancaron said:


> You just answered your own question. The v2 has one piece upper shaft and head.


I've found in my hunt for a seal rebuild kit that V2 has a spring around the seal, V1 does not. Mine has a spring around the seal haha, to further add to the confusion. If they are similar enough I'll go with the V2 seal rebuild kit


----------



## christiancaron (Jan 7, 2018)

bdreynolds7 said:


> I've found in my hunt for a seal rebuild kit that V2 has a spring around the seal, V1 does not. Mine has a spring around the seal haha, to further add to the confusion. If they are similar enough I'll go with the V2 seal rebuild kit


There are only two versions of the dropper, but also two versions of the kit. See it as v1.a, v1.b and v2. You have v1.b.


----------



## bdreynolds7 (Dec 13, 2019)

christiancaron said:


> There are only two versions of the dropper, but also two versions of the kit. See it as v1.a, v1.b and v2. You have v1.b.


Gotcha. How come I am seeing a V3 service kit?









BikeYoke Revive Service Kits


BikeYoke Revive Service Kits :: From $20.00 :: BikeYoke Seatpost Parts




www.universalcycles.com





Wish they made this easy. I ended up ordering the V2 service kit haha


----------



## yeti575 (Feb 25, 2007)

Not sure if this is the right thread, but this one seems the most current. I had my year old, at the time, Revive warrantied a little over a year ago when the post snapped where the seat attaches (I posted here with pictures and found out I was not the only one this had happened to).I dealt with Dirt Labs and there was some muttering that Bike Yoke had made some changes to this area.

Fast forward to today and the exact same thing just happened. I'm at a loss as to why this keeps happening to me as I am just an average 60 year old trail rider. Neither post saw anything that would remotely be seen as abusive. I'm meticulous about my bikes and all bolts were tightened with a torque wrench and bolted down within the max guide lines notated on the seat rails.

Not sure if this is considered a warrantied item, but I'm not certain I'd feel comfortable putting a new one on anyway.

Anyway, more a word of caution to anyone looking at this dropper. I'll keep posting here if I find anything out from Dirt Labs/Bike Yoke I feel should be passed along.


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

yeti575 said:


> Fast forward to today and the exact same thing just happened. I'm at a loss as to why this keeps happening to me as I am just an average 60 year old trail rider.


Got any pics? Not that I doubt you, I'm just curious.

P.S.
I'm 58, above average, and tip the scales at 2 Benji's.


----------



## yeti575 (Feb 25, 2007)

RustyIron said:


> Got any pics? Not that I doubt you, I'm just curious.
> 
> P.S.
> I'm 58, above average, and tip the scales at 2 Benji's.





RustyIron said:


> Got any pics? Not that I doubt you, I'm just curious.
> 
> P.S.
> I'm 58, above average, and tip the scales at 2 Benji's.


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

*yeti575*, I hope you are ok. 
It's a first version of Revive on your pics. Failures like this have been reported at least 2 or three times at MTBR. Revive v2 has a machined head.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

accordnick said:


> *yeti575*, I hope you are ok.
> It's a first version of Revive on your pics. Failures like this have been reported at least 2 or three times at MTBR. Revive v2 has a machined head.


It also has a posted weight limit now, correct?

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk


----------



## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

WHALENARD said:


> It also has a posted weight limit now, correct?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk


They list it as 115kg. A bit over 250lbs for those still languishing in antiquated measurements


----------



## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

accordnick said:


> *yeti575*, I hope you are ok.
> It's a first version of Revive on your pics. Failures like this have been reported at least 2 or three times at MTBR. Revive v2 has a machined head.


Mine failed. I was pushing 260, then dropped to 215. When I was heavier I was seated more.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

Yeow. That's broken all righty. Maybe failures are why Bike Yoke switched to one-piece construction.


----------



## yeti575 (Feb 25, 2007)

accordnick said:


> *yeti575*, I hope you are ok.
> 
> Thankfully, no damage to rider this time. The first time it broke I was not as lucky.


----------



## bikedrd (Jul 8, 2004)

It confuses me why Sacki doesn't suck it up and warranty the V1 uppers. Such a good post with a dangerous flaw.

There was a free replacement that was allowed some time back, but it was only for a short period of time. Why only for that short window? I actually tried to get in on it at the very tail end of the time period when I just happened to stumble upon the offer on pinkbike. I never could place an order because I never could get the covid-pop-up-shipping warning to close (the little x was missing on my android). Lame.


----------



## bdreynolds7 (Dec 13, 2019)

bikedrd said:


> It confuses me why Sacki doesn't suck it up and warranty the V1 uppers. Such a good post with a dangerous flaw.
> 
> There was a free replacement that was allowed some time back, but it was only for a short period of time. Why only for that short window? I actually tried to get in on it at the very tail end of the time period when I just happened to stumble upon the offer on pinkbike. I never could place an order because I never could get the covid-pop-up-shipping warning to close (the little x was missing on my android). Lame.


Maybe they are only replacing them as they break? I can't imagine as a company they'll tell anyone to pound sand after a seat post breaks like that. Sure Sacki isn't here to speak on behalf of the company anymore but they do have an email on their site...


----------



## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

When mine broke they turned it around quickly but it started leaking. The second return was not as quick and the lettering on the post didn’t line up. The packing was not “professional”. Showed apathy or annoyance or both. Anyhow, the post is dangerous. They asked me if I crashed. It’s mountain biking and although I respect design limitations when it comes to mild crashes, seat post failures can cause significant harm. They are really exposing themselves to legal liability by ignoring this. 

Went to Fox with great success until my 5 month old 200mm crapped out, so there you go...

Don’t get me started on 9.8. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Mine was replaced quickly and professionally. I just sold it though, for a net loss, no way was I gonna run one again. When I looked at the amount of material actually holding the seat mast to the post it struck me as an obvious flaw and engineering oversight. 

While Sacki brought a very nice and reliable post to market at a time when there weren't many or any, that is not the case anymore. $200 buys you an equally good post now. Except they're less complicated, far easier to service, and won't catastrophically fail in under a year of use. 

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

WHALENARD said:


> Mine was replaced quickly and professionally. I just sold it though, for a net loss, no way was I gonna run one again. When I looked at the amount of material actually holding the seat mast to the post it struck me as an obvious flaw and engineering oversight.
> 
> While Sacki brought a very nice and reliable post to market at a time when there weren't many or any, that is not the case anymore. $200 buys you an equally good post now. Except they're less complicated, far easier to service, and won't catastrophically fail in under a year of use.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk


maybe you are referring to the PNW posts by that, but mine are junk compared to my Bikeyoke's. The PNWs develop a lot of play in just months and the performance degrades quickly. The only option is to replace the cartridge, which doesn't solve all of the issues. Cheap, but more of a throw-away part.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Jayem said:


> maybe you are referring to the PNW posts by that, but mine are junk compared to my Bikeyoke's. The PNWs develop a lot of play in just months and the performance degrades quickly. The only option is to replace the cartridge, which doesn't solve all of the issues. Cheap, but more of a throw-away part.


I've installed and serviced a couple of PNW and brand-x. While I wouldn't call them throw away exactly they are definitely not a well refined product.

I moved on to OneUp after my revive and have been very happy with the 2 I've owned. They are not as smooth or tight as BikeYolk but in the field I've found that to be 100% inconsequential. To the contrary, I find the action on OneUp superior to my revive as nailing those micro adjustments is much easier. It's also dead simple to service, a very clever and simple package.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Just installed WolfTooth LightAction remote for my beloved BikeYoke Revive - yup, even smoother than it was. 
Of all droppers and remotes tried - don't know any better.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

yeti575 said:


> Not sure if this is the right thread, but this one seems the most current. I had my year old, at the time, Revive warrantied a little over a year ago when the post snapped where the seat attaches (I posted here with pictures and found out I was not the only one this had happened to).I dealt with Dirt Labs and there was some muttering that Bike Yoke had made some changes to this area.
> 
> Fast forward to today and the exact same thing just happened. I'm at a loss as to why this keeps happening to me as I am just an average 60 year old trail rider. Neither post saw anything that would remotely be seen as abusive. I'm meticulous about my bikes and all bolts were tightened with a torque wrench and bolted down within the max guide lines notated on the seat rails.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the update

Thanks


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

bikedrd said:


> It confuses me why Sacki doesn't suck it up and warranty the V1 uppers. Such a good post with a dangerous flaw.
> 
> There was a free replacement that was allowed some time back, but it was only for a short period of time. Why only for that short window? I actually tried to get in on it at the very tail end of the time period when I just happened to stumble upon the offer on pinkbike. I never could place an order because I never could get the covid-pop-up-shipping warning to close (the little x was missing on my android). Lame.


Ya the free upgrade was virtually impossible for me to acquire but I was ok with that.

I have tried to pay for the upgrade direct through sacki , who wanted me to use one of the dealers.

First dealer in Vancouver would not return calls or emails - turns out he was leaving the city and no longer in that type if business. Fine.

Second dealer advises that they will not do service.

So ya, good news is oneup is willing to take my money. Glad bikeyoke is so successful that they can just turn away customers that want to spend money....


----------



## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Running into an issue with my recently upgraded revive. Not sure if the upgrade is relevant or not. I had the upgrade done at the start of winter here in New England. Got the post back and installed it and then hung my bike on the garage wall (vertically oriented) until today. 

Seems that I have sponginess in the post that wasn’t there after the install and doesn’t seem to go away regardless of how many times I try to revive it. Any tips? I’m guessing it’s because of how it was stored for several months. 

The post was compressed while the bike was hanging if that matters. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

incubus said:


> Running into an issue with my recently upgraded revive. Not sure if the upgrade is relevant or not. I had the upgrade done at the start of winter here in New England. Got the post back and installed it and then hung my bike on the garage wall (vertically oriented) until today.
> 
> Seems that I have sponginess in the post that wasn't there after the install and doesn't seem to go away regardless of how many times I try to revive it. Any tips? I'm guessing it's because of how it was stored for several months.
> 
> ...


The orientation shouldn't matter, but having it collapsed fully pressurised may have caused some side effect like oil loss, and you might have lost some air pressure.
You shouldn't leave it completely collapsed because the excessive pressure, nor fully extended to prevent hydrolock, mostly in the summer.
I would start by emptying the air chamber then reinflate it and cycle the dropper a couple of times with the revive function, if the sponginess is still present your best option is to do a oil change to make sure the oil level is correct.


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

WHALENARD said:


> I moved on to OneUp after my revive and have been very happy with the 2 I've owned. They are not as smooth or tight as BikeYolk but in the field I've found that to be 100% inconsequential. To the contrary, I find the action on OneUp superior to my revive as nailing those micro adjustments is much easier. It's also dead simple to service, a very clever and simple package.


I've also got OneUp 210, agree that it's really simple to service BUT you should service it VERY often, 2-3 times more compared with BY. And it's very far from smoothness and lightness in action...
Moreover OneUp do not sale cartridge spares, only a replacement unit.

I also have questions to BY but honestly it's still one of the best dropper posts at the market.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

accordnick said:


> I've also got OneUp 210, agree that it's really simple to service BUT you should service it VERY often, 2-3 times more compared with BY. And it's very far from smoothness and lightness in action...
> Moreover OneUp do not sale cartridge spares, only a replacement unit.
> 
> I also have questions to BY but honestly it's still one of the best dropper posts at the market.


OneUp does sell replacement cartridges, $62 shipped. My first OneUp will be going on it's 4th season now...one full service, one pull the upper collar and grease. That's it, original keys and all. I have a lev that the cartridge STILL works 100% and it's from 2013.

I agree the revive is smoother but I'm not sure why we focus on that. Imo, a much more valuable metric would be how intuitive and easy it is to make the all so important micro adjustments. For me that's the OneUp, no contest.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

WHALENARD said:


> I agree the revive is smoother but I'm not sure why we focus on that. Imo, a much more valuable metric would be how intuitive and easy it is to make the all so important micro adjustments. For me that's the OneUp, no contest.


When you lower the post lot of times during the ride you get focused on it's action. ) I do clean&grease of OneUp each 400-500 miles and it's really annoying.


----------



## alexdi (Jun 25, 2016)

I have a first-gen Revive. Is it possible to reverse the cable routing so the barrel end is at the dropper?


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

alexdi said:


> I have a first-gen Revive. Is it possible to reverse the cable routing so the barrel end is at the dropper?


Probably not without some DIY adaptations.
But why do you want to reverse the cable, what are you are trying to accomplish by doing it?


----------



## beeveeaych (Jul 9, 2020)

Aglo said:


> The orientation shouldn't matter, but having it collapsed fully pressurised may have caused some side effect like oil loss, and you might have lost some air pressure.
> You shouldn't leave it completely collapsed because the excessive pressure, nor fully extended to prevent hydrolock, mostly in the summer.
> I would start by emptying the air chamber then reinflate it and cycle the dropper a couple of times with the revive function, if the sponginess is still present your best option is to do a oil change to make sure the oil level is correct.


Running into the same issue as the original poster. Cannot get rid of the sponginess no matter how many resets I do and I've triple checked my air pressure. Do you know what type of oil is used in these? I have watched the cartridge rebuild video, but they don't specify.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

beeveeaych said:


> Do you know what type of oil is used in these? I have watched the cartridge rebuild video, but they don't specify.


Can you imagine, there are some info in first post that Sacki left here... 
Like, https://www.mtbr.com/attachments/revive-oil-and-grease-specs-en-jpg.1222633/
Maybe it can help...


----------



## alexdi (Jun 25, 2016)

Aglo said:


> Probably not without some DIY adaptations.
> But why do you want to reverse the cable, what are you are trying to accomplish by doing it?


The goal is to simplify the setup of the post. I have a lever that doesn't require the cable end that I'd like to install, but I'm putting it off because of how annoying it was to get the cable cut _just so_ the first time. Much easier to do the adjustment at the lever if it's possible.


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

alexdi said:


> The goal is to simplify the setup of the post. I have a lever that doesn't require the cable end that I'd like to install, but I'm putting it off because of how annoying it was to get the cable cut _just so_ the first time. Much easier to do the adjustment at the lever if it's possible.


So you want to install a 3rd party lever that tight the cable at the lever, is this correct? If so, them why don't you cut the cable end and install the barrel nut as normal, on one end you would have the barrel nut that is part of the normal Revive setup, and on the other end you would have a cable tip that you can tight in your lever.


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

beeveeaych said:


> Running into the same issue as the original poster. Cannot get rid of the sponginess no matter how many resets I do and I've triple checked my air pressure. Do you know what type of oil is used in these? I have watched the cartridge rebuild video, but they don't specify.


The link @ka81ua posted is not working, but you can get all the info you need about oil and grease needed to service the Revive in the first post of this thread as he mentioned.
The oil Saki recommends may be difficult to get, but you can use others as long as they have similar specs.


----------



## beeveeaych (Jul 9, 2020)

ka81ua said:


> Can you imagine, there are some info in first post that Sacki left here...
> Like, https://www.mtbr.com/attachments/revive-oil-and-grease-specs-en-jpg.1222633/
> Maybe it can help...


Hi Ka81ua, thanks for the response and the link. Have you performed this service?


ka81ua said:


> Can you imagine, there are some info in first post that Sacki left here...
> Like, https://www.mtbr.com/attachments/revive-oil-and-grease-specs-en-jpg.1222633/
> Maybe it can help...


I sense high levels of deserved sarcasm in this response. Thank you Ka81ua.


----------



## beeveeaych (Jul 9, 2020)

Aglo said:


> The link @ka81ua posted is not working, but you can get all the info you need about oil and grease needed to service the Revive in the first post of this thread as he mentioned.
> The oil Saki recommends may be difficult to get, but you can use others as long as they have similar specs.


Thank you Aglo. Indeed, when I search for that oil I can only find 20 litres pails of it. On the Bike Yoke website, they now sell Bike Yoke Sanguine, their own hydraulic oil. I am assuming this would work. Please correct me if I'm wrong and thanks again for the reply.


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

beeveeaych said:


> Thank you Aglo. Indeed, when I search for that oil I can only find 20 litres pails of it. On the Bike Yoke website, they now sell Bike Yoke Sanguine, their own hydraulic oil. I am assuming this would work. Please correct me if I'm wrong and thanks again for the reply.


Yes that will work as you would expect. That's probably the Mobil oil with the 5% r.s.p. no Stick Slip already mixed.


----------



## beeveeaych (Jul 9, 2020)

Aglo said:


> Yes that will work as you would expect. That's probably the Mobil oil with the 5% r.s.p. no Stick Slip already mixed.


Thanks again Aglo, may just buy that as I think I may need a new seal kit. It looks like hydraulic oil is leaking out the top of the seat post. Any experience with this? Seals? Maybe needs a new valve core?


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

beeveeaych said:


> Thanks again Aglo, may just buy that as I think I may need a new seal kit. It looks like hydraulic oil is leaking out the top of the seat post. Any experience with this? Seals? Maybe needs a new valve core?


Sorry, I forgot to reply!
Those seals don't see movement except for some wiggle when threading the the pump, so if you have some leak there it's probably either a faulty seal from factory, or as you mentioned, from the valve core.
When I dissembled the post after 3 years those seals were like new.


----------



## beeveeaych (Jul 9, 2020)

Aglo said:


> Sorry, I forgot to reply!
> Those seals don't see movement except for some wiggle when threading the the pump, so if you have some leak there it's probably either a faulty seal from factory, or as you mentioned, from the valve core.
> When I dissembled the post after 3 years those seals were like new.


Thanks for replying!

Today I did the full cartridge rebuild. I don't yet have a seal kit for it so I didn't actually rebuild or replace anything, but found a couple of things:

The first thing I found was that even when I thought I had depressurized the cartridge I had not. After slowly bleeding the post down through the valve with a shock pump attached I started to remove the end cap. It was very tight to the point I thought it was crossthreaded, but then pressurized oil started foaming out from the threads of the end cap. I stopped and tried bleeding the pressure off through the schrader valve again. As there was no pressure to bleed off, I continued unthreading the end cap. Almost immediately after that the end cap flew off with the piston and shaft unit and landed on my work bench along with a lot of aerosolized oil. A little in shock, I momentarily forgot what I was doing and lay the post down on the work bench and spilt a bunch of the oil. What I did manage to save is in the first photo; green and full of air bubbles. It foamed for a few minutes in the tube after being poured out of the post. 
The second thing I noticed was that the micro valve was off its seat. I think this might have been due to the pressurized release so I can't be sure what it looked like before. That said, I did notice the micro valve did have a little wave in it. Could this bend in the microvalve be allowing air to pass into the inner tube? After watching the "Microvalve in Action" video on youtube (



) this seems likely. Could trapped air also be the reason for the oil shower even though I thought it was bled down?
Has anyone had this happen before? Is Sacki around to confirm my theory? Also not sure on the orientation of the microvalve now that I reread the cartridge rebuild video's caption and stare at the photo I took....

Thanks,
Ben


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

beeveeaych said:


> Is Sacki around to confirm my theory?


Thankfully to few guys in this thread - no, he's not around anymore, so if ou need his hlp - contact through bikeyoke website.


----------



## TJayL (Aug 27, 2015)

I'm trying to do the 100 hour lower service on a revive 125. This post is on my fatbike, so it gets wet. It's also long overdue for a service, because I'm lazy. I can't for the life of me get the thing apart after removing the circlip. Any tips? Also, it seems like my laziness is coming back to bite me because the post won't even drop at all...


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I've had my 185 revive for a year and the tiny o-ring in the spring valve has failed 3 times in that period:








The part is the o-ring 2x1.5 NBR90.

I notice a bit of sag when it starts to go that no amount of reviving will cure. Then it tears and it turns to a pogo stick. Started off with WPL 2.5 weight and was using Maxima Plush 3wt during the last failure.

What the hell am I doing wrong?


----------



## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

half_man_half_scab said:


> I've had my 185 revive for a year and the tiny o-ring in the spring valve has failed 3 times in that period:
> View attachment 1930003
> 
> The part is the o-ring 2x1.5 NBR90.
> ...


I wonder if it's poor machining on one or more of the bits that the o-ring interfaces with?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## beeveeaych (Jul 9, 2020)

half_man_half_scab said:


> I've had my 185 revive for a year and the tiny o-ring in the spring valve has failed 3 times in that period:
> View attachment 1930003
> 
> The part is the o-ring 2x1.5 NBR90.
> ...


Just thought I would reply with my latest experience. The o ring kit came in the mail the other day and last night I took apart my revive again. I replaced the main piston seal, the small 2x1.5 NBR90 o-ring and the microvalve (with the lip facing up). I refilled the oil to 41.5ml (160mm post), reassembled, and repressurized to 250 psi. I then cycled the reset mechanism a couple of times and unfortunately the sponginess was still there. I could compress the post almost 50% into its travel.

I then went to depressurize the post. When I connected my shock pump it only read 50psi despite putting in 250. I bled that pressure off slowly but could hear oil frothing out through the air valve. I let the post sit for a minute and tried to bleed off more pressure, but only a little more air came out. I then removed the lower tube. When I went to unthread the end cap it blew off and I got a beardful of hydraulic oil. Tasty stuff!

Comparing the inner tube on my post to the one in the video, it looks like mine is an older version with only one groove. When I replaced the microvalve (with the lip up), I couldn't really tell whether the top or bottom "rim" should sit in the groove. Could this be contributing to a seal passing? In the video, the inner tube has two grooves and it looks like the microvalve seats on both of them.

If anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears. Below is a photo of all the o rings I replaced. The tiny one is the 2x1.5 NBR90 inside the piston that @half_man_half_scab circled.


----------



## beeveeaych (Jul 9, 2020)

beeveeaych said:


> Just thought I would reply with my latest experience. The o ring kit came in the mail the other day and last night I took apart my revive again. I replaced the main piston seal, the small 2x1.5 NBR90 o-ring and the microvalve (with the lip facing up). I refilled the oil to 41.5ml (160mm post), reassembled, and repressurized to 250 psi. I then cycled the reset mechanism a couple of times and unfortunately the sponginess was still there. I could compress the post almost 50% into its travel.
> 
> I then went to depressurize the post. When I connected my shock pump it only read 50psi despite putting in 250. I bled that pressure off slowly but could hear oil frothing out through the air valve. I let the post sit for a minute and tried to bleed off more pressure, but only a little more air came out. I then removed the lower tube. When I went to unthread the end cap it blew off and I got a beardful of hydraulic oil. Tasty stuff!
> 
> ...


Just wanted to follow up. After replacing all the orings as I mentioned above and still having issues I had a realization while watching the revive reset demo video. Once I had the post back together, pressurized, and in the seat post I would use the reset mechanism to cycle the valve up and down a few times. My stupid mistake and why this wasn't working is I wasn't using the remote to raise the post. I would open the valve, push the seat down, close the valve then open it and let the seat come back up. This just pulls all the air back into the chamber. Obviously the post was still bouncy and it's also why the end cap blew off at me even after I thought I had bled all the pressure off.

Stupid....stupid...


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

beeveeaych said:


> Stupid....stupid...


Perhaps, but it's only through making mistakes that we get to improve. Now you're probably one of the foremost experts on rebuilding Revives. Now ride!


----------



## theTTshark (Aug 2, 2020)

So I have a strange issue occurring. Without the dropper lever pressed, the post will compress and extend freely. But if I press the lever, the post will not move. It's as if the operation of the post has somehow reversed itself? I've tried resetting the post, but nothing seems to happen. Basically I started a ride with the post working then during the ride the post started acting weird, then I tried to reset it on the trail and it reversed itself.


----------



## beeveeaych (Jul 9, 2020)

theTTshark said:


> So I have a strange issue occurring. Without the dropper lever pressed, the post will compress and extend freely. But if I press the lever, the post will not move. It's as if the operation of the post has somehow reversed itself? I've tried resetting the post, but nothing seems to happen. Basically I started a ride with the post working then during the ride the post started acting weird, then I tried to reset it on the trail and it reversed itself.





theTTshark said:


> So I have a strange issue occurring. Without the dropper lever pressed, the post will compress and extend freely. But if I press the lever, the post will not move. It's as if the operation of the post has somehow reversed itself? I've tried resetting the post, but nothing seems to happen. Basically I started a ride with the post working then during the ride the post started acting weird, then I tried to reset it on the trail and it reversed itself.


Have you checked your pressure?


----------



## theTTshark (Aug 2, 2020)

beeveeaych said:


> Have you checked your pressure?


Yeah should have included in the original post that the pressure was the first thing I checked. 250psi


----------



## beeveeaych (Jul 9, 2020)

theTTshark said:


> Yeah should have included in the original post that the pressure was the first thing I checked. 250psi


Sounds a little like my situation. My post was like a pogo stick. I ended up having to take it apart and replace the main piston seal. Bike Yoke sells the seal kit online. You could try tearing it down and inspect the seals. Just be careful depressurizing it. It sounds like there might be some air trapped in the inner chamber. If it doesn't feel like you're releasing 250psi when you bleed it down, there is probably some air trapped. Just be really careful and remove the end cap very slowly.


----------



## groundpounder17 (Oct 19, 2020)

Is the Revive still the best dropper or has Bike Yoke been unseated as the best?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

groundpounder17 said:


> Is the Revive still the best dropper


yes


----------



## The_Bob (Jan 16, 2018)

Got a new bike last week with Bikeyoke. Forget the Reverbs and Transfers. This think is absolutely magical compared to them. Almost zero stiction and a super light action. Loving it!


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

The_Bob said:


> a super light action. Loving it!


With a WolfTooth Remote LA lever it's even better.


----------



## The_Bob (Jan 16, 2018)

ka81ua said:


> With a WolfTooth Remote LA lever it's even better.


Running that exact lever


----------



## groundpounder17 (Oct 19, 2020)

ka81ua said:


> With a WolfTooth Remote LA lever it's even better.


According to the Bike Yoke and Wolf Tooth websites the standard remote is the preferred remote for the revive dropper. I just ordered this remote, but am waiting on the 160mm to get back in stock. Can anyone tell me why the standard is the preferred instead of the LA remote for the Revive?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

groundpounder17 said:


> According to the Bike Yoke and Wolf Tooth websites the standard remote is the preferred remote for the revive dropper. I just ordered this remote, but am waiting on the 160mm to get back in stock. Can anyone tell me why the standard is the preferred instead of the LA remote for the Revive?


According to common sense - every adult can understand that only his personal experience matters.
So, when I was ordering WT remote - I understand that and so I ordered LA lever in addition. When I tried both - FOR ME I found out that LA is better, waaaaayyyyyyy better.
Kapish?..


----------



## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

You can, just swap the levers on the remotes.. if you find the LA or the regular to be an issue. The bike yoke's smooth enough that it's really easy to operate anyway. Possibly too easy for me with a LA lever.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

dysfunction said:


> You can, just swap the levers on the remotes.. if you find the LA or the regular to be an issue. The bike yoke's smooth enough that it's really easy to operate anyway. Possibly too easy for me with a LA lever.


Are you commentibg me or .. ?

If me - as Isaid I biught both levers and swped them till decided which one to choose.


----------



## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

ka81ua said:


> Are you commentibg me or .. ?
> 
> If me - as Isaid I biught both levers and swped them till decided which one to choose.


No, just pointing out that swapping them is ridiculously easy (as you no doubt know)...

I probably typed that, went and worked a bit, then hit reply after you did


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

I want to thank Sacki AGAIN! I had an issue with my Revive, it lasted 360 rides. Alot of rides are 2-3.5 hours, so I am very happy with the seatpost Longevity. I had done 2 lower tube services at home, then a lower tube service with $20 rebuild kit (Wiper, brass guide pins, foam). Then all the oil fell out. I definitely went too long between having oil changed. Anyway, Sacki turned me on to Performance Shock, up at Sonoma Raceway. They got my post back to me a week after I mailed it. Pretty good! It was $150 for the service and parts, which I would have done at home, but I thought I may have broken something, and Sacki was going to support the repair if replacement tube was needed, it was not needed. If you are pushing past recommended ”Oil” service intervals, watch out. However, I had a backup post to borrow (Thanks Inonjoey), so I was set. One note, when doing lower tube service, I will check bottom button that screws into top tube, and apply a little locktight on those threads, then snug it up. I think mine loosened from vibration. I tightened it in February, but I should have used locktight on the 2 or 3 threads that were showing. I think it loosened up, and oil fell out. My frame was filthy with oil. Anyhow, THANK YOU SACKI, GREAT PRODUCT. Thanks for quick reply, and support.


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

One more quick thought. I was using a FOX Transfer for about 4-5 rides. Its a great post. I definitely like Revive better. I am happy FOX ditched the DOSS, and made the Transfer. A few of my friends have had good luck with Transfer. I like the Bikeyoke Revive alot better. Much quicker action, smoother operating, and Revive feature is great, although I only use that feature about every 70 rides or so.


----------



## cavo (Apr 18, 2011)

what is everyone using for cartridge oil? somewhere i saw mobil dte excel 15 with some 5% mixture added. i cant find this anywhere. i have a lot of different oils, wandering if it really matters, thinking i will just use Redline extra light? any idea what the viscosity of original oil is?
thanks


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

cavo said:


> what is everyone using for cartridge oil? somewhere i saw mobil dte excel 15 with some 5% mixture added. i cant find this anywhere. i have a lot of different oils, wandering if it really matters, thinking i will just use Redline extra light? any idea what the viscosity of original oil is?
> thanks


I'm using motorex 2.5w ([email protected]°C), it has a viscosity slight lower than the Mobil dte recommended by bikeyoke ([email protected]°C).
If you want, you can get the additive from online stores in Germany.
You can see most of the information you want on the first post of this thread.


----------



## cavo (Apr 18, 2011)

Aglo said:


> I'm using motorex 2.5w ([email protected]°C), it has a viscosity slight lower than the Mobil dte recommended by bikeyoke ([email protected]°C).
> If you want, you can get the additive from online stores in Germany.
> You can see most of the information you want on the first post of this thread.


ok thanks, i also have Redline Lightweight that i use to rebuild my mcleod. it is 5wt but has viscosity of [email protected]°C, so should be a good match. i wander what does extra 5% of additive do. probably not worth the hassle imho.


----------



## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

cavo said:


> ok thanks, i also have Redline Lightweight that i use to rebuild my mcleod. it is 5wt but has viscosity of [email protected]°C, so should be a good match. i wander what does extra 5% of additive do. probably not worth the hassle imho.


It's a friction-reduction additive, we assume that all suspension fluids already have some kind of additive to do the same, so it's up to you. I have a bottle and use it whenever I do a service on one of my forks or on the revive.


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

cavo said:


> ok thanks, i also have Redline Lightweight that i use to rebuild my mcleod. it is 5wt but has viscosity of [email protected]°C, so should be a good match. i wander what does extra 5% of additive do. probably not worth the hassle imho.


I wouldn't use Redline fluid, plenty far better options. The shocks and fork dampers I have seen filled with redline look a mess when you strip them apart.


----------



## cavo (Apr 18, 2011)

Rick Draper said:


> I wouldn't use Redline fluid, plenty far better options. The shocks and fork dampers I have seen filled with redline look a mess when you strip them apart.


interesting, i never had an issue. what do you mean by mess? i typically rebuild my mcleod and former ks lev cartridges once or twice a year, never had a problem with anything looking out of ordinary.


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

cavo said:


> interesting, i never had an issue. what do you mean by mess? i typically rebuild my mcleod and former ks lev cartridges once or twice a year, never had a problem with anything looking out of ordinary.


I have seen discolouration of transfer post internals that use redline like water and countless shims in various dampers that the owns have filled with redline oil and its discoloured/etched the shims.


----------



## cavo (Apr 18, 2011)

i have not had this happened but will check more closely on next rebuild to make sure., is this only specific to their like water fluid? i am using their heavier fluids, extralight and lightweight.


----------



## SleepeRst (Nov 30, 2011)

Anyone care to chime in with long term reviews of this post?


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

SleepeRst said:


> Anyone care to chime in with long term reviews of this post?


620 miles on mine, and it still runs as perfectly as the day I bought it. It's my favorite seatpost.


----------



## soulshaker (Sep 23, 2013)

I've got around 2000 miles on mine and I needed about 5 secs to reset it for the first time a couple of weeks ago. So about as close to perfect for me as it gets.


----------



## wheatgerm (Jan 30, 2006)

I've had mine for 3 years now. No problems at all.


----------



## crank1979 (Feb 3, 2006)

SleepeRst said:


> Anyone care to chime in with long term reviews of this post?


Of the Bike Yoke Revive, KS Lev (intenral and external, Specialized Command Post, Fox Transfer, Magura Vyron, Giant and the original Crank Brothers with the lever under the seat that I've owned; the Bike Yoke is the one I put on any new bike. 4 Bike Yokes going strong, 2 x KS Levs and a Fox Transfer to replace.


----------



## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

I've had KS Lev's, Reverbs and Thomson in the past.

Now, all the bikes have a Revive fitted. Lower service is a doddle and on one of them, I've reduced the travel by 10mm which was also really straightforward.

For the cost of one Reverb top bushing cap I can buy two full revive bearing kits.

There may be cheaper posts around with a good reputation but they have disposable guts. This is the only post I know of where I could fully rebuild it the night before a biking holiday with a few normal hand tools and ride worry free for the whole trip and beyond.


----------



## brentos (May 19, 2006)

Anybody know where I can buy an "Upper Tube" (Stanchion) for a 31.6x125mm drop post?

One of the bikes on our rack got loose and it's brake lever found the upper tube on my wife's bike...


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

brentos said:


> Anybody know where I can buy an "Upper Tube" (Stanchion) for a 31.6x125mm drop post?


Send an email to BY support. I'm sure Stefan will send you it or gives a direction to nearest BY dealer.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

SleepeRst said:


> Anyone care to chime in with long term reviews of this post?


One deficiency I've identified lies in the saddle clamp. What I've found is that the upper portion of the clamp was not capable of handling the torque recommendations (7nm). Right around 4nm this part begins to taco (picture 2). As evidence that this is systemic, I present my findings that they've updated the clamp ($25 part) with more material and reinforcement in later revisions.

Upper clamp, view from the bottom (old clamp on top, new on bottom). Note increased material in the central most central regions of the clamp and ridges found at the front and back adjacent to bolts:










View from the top (old top, new bottom). Note the stress in the metal along the front-to-back axis:










I've always used a torque wrench, and through trial and error had to learn the true torque limits of this component.

Buyer beware, even my new 213 Revive 2.0 did not have these updates.


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

I've been running the Revive for the better part of a year. I love it. 

My newer bike came with a Fox Transfer. It was only two months before it would intermittently fail to extend the last little bit. It's almost four months old now, and I can't stand it any more. It's going back to Fox for repair, and a new Revive will be arriving in the mail this week.


----------



## crank1979 (Feb 3, 2006)

RustyIron said:


> My newer bike came with a Fox Transfer. It was only two months before it would intermittently fail to extend the last little bit. It's almost four months old now, and I can't stand it any more. It's going back to Fox for repair, and a new Revive will be arriving in the mail this week.


I'm in a similar boat. New bike with Fox Transfer. It doesn't feel as nice as the Revive. I like the Fox lever though, and luckily was able to use the same cable when swapping over to the Revive.


----------



## SleepeRst (Nov 30, 2011)

Went ahead and got the revive. Installing it is rather interesting but it worked out well on the first try. Post feels great, that thud when it hits max travel is addicting, that alone is worth it.


----------



## TylerVernon (Nov 10, 2019)

Added two Revive V2 in the last two weeks. Very nice. My Oneup v2 is going on 2 yrs, works good too.


----------



## bizango (Mar 20, 2016)

Does anyone else experience stiction at the lever when dropping the post? I recently put a new Revive on and have been disappointed on how smooth it feel actuating the post. There's a noticable amount of force when actuating, then it breaks free and feels smooth. Just like stiction behaves. It's functional, I just really don't like the feel. Raising it feels fine, so I don't think it is the cable/housing. I'm running a PNW lever. My gf has a Revive with a Revive lever and it feels silky smooth. Suggestions?


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

bizango said:


> Does anyone else experience stiction at the lever when dropping the post? I recently put a new Revive on and have been disappointed on how smooth it feel actuating the post. There's a noticable amount of force when actuating, then it breaks free and feels smooth. Just like stiction behaves. It's functional, I just really don't like the feel. Raising it feels fine, so I don't think it is the cable/housing. I'm running a PNW lever. My gf has a Revive with a Revive lever and it feels silky smooth. Suggestions?


This happens when the post experiences a significant temperature change. If I was riding outside and it was 40 degrees and it's 75 degrees inside, it will do that. The word from Bikeyoke was to leave it partially down, then after it's brought up to temp wherever, release it, and it doesn't give any more trouble. If this happens outside of this situation, then something wrong with the mechanism or cable routing.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

bizango said:


> Suggestions?


cable.


----------



## ricmiami (Jan 27, 2017)

Hello, I got a Bike Yoke Revive 30.9 - 160 travel with my Evil Chamois Hagar. I bought the bike from a bike shop in Washington state and it was a demo.

The dropper was solid until a few weeks ago. Started not to be able to lower it and at some point I heard a noise and it went down then it would not stay up again. 

I followed the videos and did the lower tube service and then the cartridge rebuild service. When I opened the cartridge, I noticed the piston shaft (#29) was unthreaded from the main piston and I screwed it back in. I also noticed the REVIVE lever axle (#8) was broken in two parts - need to replace it. Finally, when I was rebuilding the lower tube, I noticed I did not have the white o-ring on 2:03 of the lower tube service video. My suspicion is that the bike shop did maintenance on the dropper and perhaps lost the o-ring or I have an old version of the Revive dropper post.

After the complete rebuild, my dropper is not working well unfortunately!  Bike Yoke Revive Issues

The dropper goes down but it does not fully stay up. If I push it down, it goes up slowly. Hard to do a good REVIVE cycle, as the revive reset lever axle is broken but I tried by hand and it did not resolve the issues. Attaching a video of the problem.

Thinking I need to buy: 1 revive reset lever axle, 1 quick reset lever, 1 Bike Yoke sanguine hydraulic oil, and possibly a set of o-rings. Unsure which one, as I could not figure out the part # for the white o-ring on 2:03 of the lower tube service video.

sacki / Bike Yoke team, can you please help me figure out what I need to do? I am trying to decide if spending on parts to fix the Revive dropper post will be effective. Sending the dropper to a service center for $100-$150 does not seem worth it - I'd rather buy a new PNW dropper and replace in that case. Thanks so much!


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Is your seatpost clamp too tight?


----------



## ricmiami (Jan 27, 2017)

alexbn921 said:


> Is your seatpost clamp too tight?


No, I tested the dropper without reinstalling it on the bike and it has issue. Thanks for the suggestion!


----------



## Golf_Chick (Aug 22, 2013)

Do these post suffers with any rotational movement when either fully extended or dropped? I used to run a thomson stealth and there was zero movement and it never missed a beat. I've been on a oneup for a while now and the rotational play is ridiculous to the point I can sometimes feel it while pedalling. it also needs regreasing and air topping up really frequently or it starts to get slower and slower.


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

Golf_Chick said:


> Do these post suffers with any rotational movement when either fully extended or dropped?
> 
> it also needs regreasing and air topping up really frequently or it starts to get slower and slower.


I run two Revives. The new one and the older one both display a minute amount of rotational movement, just as one might expect in a mechanism of this type. Neither have exhibited increased movement through use, although I expect there might come a day when wear occurs. When that day comes, BikeYoke makes a set of oversize pins to compensate for wear. 

When I installed my first post, I set the pressure at 220, which is below the factory setting and close to the recommended minimum. After 10+ months, the return was sluggish. The pressure was 185, so I pumped it up to 250, approaching the maximum recommendation. I figure pumping it up once a year is ok. The Schrader Valve is on the top of the post, so it doesn't need to be removed from the frame.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

ricmiami said:


> sacki / Bike Yoke team,


he's not here anymore, thanks to some *** here .



ricmiami said:


> Bike Yoke Revive Issues


1. wrong noise, definitely problem with bleeding.
2. # of PSI ?
3. what video with white oring at 2 03? Inserting a link would be helpfull, nah?..


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

ricmiami said:


> possibly a set of o-rings. Unsure which one, as I could not figure out the part # for the white o-ring on 2:03 of the lower tube service video.


for gsake, go to nearest Home Dep and buy all orings..
NBR 70 or 90
5x1
6x1
3.5x1
2x1.5
13x2/11.5x2
8x1.5
8x2
7x2.5
2x1.5 NBR90
2.5x1.5
4x1
17x2
18.64x3.53
24x2
2.5x1.0 (reset lever)
13x1 (Trigger)


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> 3. what video with white oring at 2 03? Inserting a link would be helpfull, nah?..






 - this ?

it's not oring, it's metall ring|bushing - #41, and now it's swapped to plastic cover|bushing #57


https://www.bikeyoke.de/media/products/BikeYoke_exploded_view_Revive.pdf


----------



## ricmiami (Jan 27, 2017)

ka81ua said:


> - this ?
> 
> it's not oring, it's metall ring|bushing - #41, and now it's swapped to plastic cover|bushing #57
> 
> ...


Yes, that's the video. And what I got in there is not a metal ring, it's a plastic cover. There seems to be too much space between the plastic cover and the outer tube which is why I thought I am missing an oring or similar part - the white one on the vid. I'll take a look the diagram and part #s you sent.

PSI is 270. As I was trying to reset the dropper by pushing the air valve in by hand I got oil coming out of the air valve. Seems something is def wrong, possibly a bad oring I would think - given I got oil up there.

Thanks for questions and tips! I appreciate them!

And it sucks that sacki is not here any longer!


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Full rebuils with ALL new orings! And, ful rebleed of ifp of course!!


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

As for psi - read the manual!

Maximum pressure is 260psi. We recommend to use a high quality shock pump with a 2step valve to avoid air loss, when detaching the pump.


----------



## ricmiami (Jan 27, 2017)

ka81ua said:


> As for psi - read the manual!
> 
> Maximum pressure is 260psi. We recommend to use a high quality shock pump with a 2step valve to avoid air loss, when detaching the pump.


Thanks! I read the manuals and pressure range was supposed to be 250-300. I will try rebleeding and pumping to 250. Which o-ring set do you recommend I get, please?
I am buying parts from Bike Yoke anyways, as some came broken on the bike I got. Might as well get the original o-rings.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

1. As for psi - https://www.bikeyoke.de/media/products/revive-manual_en.pdf
Page 18
Max 260 psi ! Where did your 250-300 come from?!..
2. As for oring set - i don't buy oring kits IF i know precise dimensions. As example, here's a store I usualy buy all orings for all my bike parts (fork, shock, dropper,...) - Кольца O-ring . As you see - ALL and EVERY sizes can be found. Those are usual NBR70 rings, so - just search for some local store. I buy original kits only if I need so.e unique part from them (like some plastic or metall detail).
You can buy their original kit but once again - if one need to replace only orings - there's no need for that.
By the way, even bushings for shocks eyelets and pedals you don't need original kits, those are originaly from Igus - iglide bearings - https://www.igus.com/iglide/plain-bearing


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Golf_Chick said:


> Do these posts suffer from any rotational movement when either fully extended or dropped? I've been on a OneUp for a while now and the rotational play is ridiculous, to the point I can sometimes feel it while pedalling. It also needs regreasing and air topping up really frequently, or it starts to get slower and slower.


Hey there,

It sounds like you might be experiencing a few different issues here, which we're keen to help you solve. Please reach out to us - [email protected]
With some background info (proof of purchase, shipping address, troubleshooting steps you've already taken), and we can work to get you rolling smoothly!

It sounds like an oversized pin kit would be a good place to start, but we'll figure that out together.

Cheers,
Gavin


----------



## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

ricmiami said:


> Yes, that's the video. And what I got in there is not a metal ring, it's a plastic cover. There seems to be too much space between the plastic cover and the outer tube which is why I thought I am missing an oring or similar part - the white one on the vid. I'll take a look the diagram and part #s you sent.
> 
> PSI is 270. As I was trying to reset the dropper by pushing the air valve in by hand I got oil coming out of the air valve. Seems something is def wrong, possibly a bad oring I would think - given I got oil up there.
> 
> ...


I just serviced my original version Revive, and I happened to read your post. Originally, there was a white ring (a cylinder shape) whose sides were 4-5 mm high, and a silver washer sat on top of the white ring. That is what you saw in the video. In the Revive service kits, the white ring and the silver washer have evolved into a single piece, which is a white/gray plastic cap, which is what you saw inside your post. After you fit the brass bars into their slots, you need to push them all the way down--I use the little aluminum rod, the one you previously removed from the inside of the tan inner rod, to push on the end of the brass bars. You can easily push a brass bar down to the top of its slot, but then you have to push on only half of the end of the brass bar to push it the rest of the way down. Once you've done that to all the brass bars, you insert the plastic cap, orientated so that the cap with the hole in the middle is on top and the open end nestles against the ends of the brass bars. Then, you have to push the plastic cap down so that it seats properly. I don't think your plastic cap was pushed all the way in--maybe because you didn't push the brass bars all the way in as I described.

To push the plastic cap down so that it seats properly, I use the end of the 7mm wrench that I used to unscrew the end piece when first dismantling the post, or I use the little aluminum rod again. I carefully push down all around the edge of the plastic cap until it slides all the way down. You will know that you have the plastic cap pushed in all the way when the little nub for the snap ring protrudes through the hole in the top of the plastic cap. The next step is to install the small snap ring, so if you can't install the snap ring on top of the plastic cap, then you didn't push the plastic cap all the way in.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

happyriding said:


> Originally, there was a white ring (a cylinder shape) whose sides were 4-5 mm high, and a silver washer sat on top of the white ring. That is what you saw in the video. In the Revive service kits, the white ring and the silver washer have evolved into a single piece, which is a white/gray plastic cap, which is what you saw inside your post.


do you even read?... 
He's already ot that answer..


----------



## ribbs76 (Apr 27, 2019)

Just got a new bike, first time with a Yoke Revive. Haven’t used the bike yet. If this is addressed already here then I’ll continue scrolling but there are 700+ post so any help is appreciated. 

When I compress the dropper there is a squishy bit of play at the end of the travel. Like it bounces up a couple mm after fully compressed so when ilI sit on it compressed to still compressed more. It’s firm with no play when extended. Can I assume this isn’t normal and what needs to be done?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ribbs76 (Apr 27, 2019)

ribbs76 said:


> Just got a new bike, first time with a Yoke Revive. Haven’t used the bike yet. If this is addressed already here then I’ll continue scrolling but there are 700+ post so any help is appreciated.
> 
> When I compress the dropper there is a squishy bit of play at the end of the travel. Like it bounces up a couple mm after fully compressed so when ilI sit on it compressed to still compressed more. It’s firm with no play when extended. Can I assume this isn’t normal and what needs to be done?
> 
> ...


Scratch that, have some play at the top of the travel as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

ribbs76 said:


> Scratch that, have some play at the top of the travel as well


Time to read the manual. 
If the seller didn't provide it with your bike, get it off BikeYoke's web page.


----------



## ribbs76 (Apr 27, 2019)

RustyIron said:


> Time to read the manual.
> If the seller didn't provide it with your bike, get it off BikeYoke's web page.


Fair enough. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

ribbs76 said:


> Fair enough.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sounds like you need to revive it.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Dimension of U-cup (part 36)

Hello.

u-cup part 36 in lower seal head part 35. It is TTU 12-8-3.
Is it a problem if I install there u-cup 12-8-4 ?
Thanx.


----------



## norbyd (Aug 30, 2009)

Is it possible to put the top part of the seat clamp on in the wrong direction?

When I return the post and sit on it, it buckles or creaks. I recently got the bike and put a
new seat on it and my hunch is it’s something with the seat clamp. I torqued the bolts to spec - 7nm.

Please advise. Thanks 👍


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

norbyd said:


> Is it possible to put the top part of the seat clamp on in the wrong direction?
> 
> When I return the post and sit on it, it buckles or creaks. I recently got the bike and put a
> new seat on it and my hunch is it’s something with the seat clamp. I torqued the bolts to spec - 7nm.
> ...


Check the upper half of the clamp for stress or cracks where the hardware is retained.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

norbyd said:


> Is it possible to put the top part of the seat clamp on in the wrong direction?
> 
> When I return the post and sit on it, it buckles or creaks. I recently got the bike and put a
> new seat on it and my hunch is it’s something with the seat clamp. I torqued the bolts to spec - 7nm.
> ...


Yes it is possible - the instructions talk about a triangle needing to be in the correct orientation.


----------



## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

Is it best to use grease or blue loctite on the saddle bolts?
I have been using grease, but that may explain why I eventually get creaking coming from the saddle rail vicinity: grease attracts dirt, and when I make adjustments or remove the saddle to add pressure, that dirt works it's way into places leading to creaking. 
So maybe I just answered my own question <shrugs>
What are your thoughts?


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

BmoreKen said:


> Is it best to use grease or blue loctite on the saddle bolts?


A sound argument can be made for the use of thread locker. 
A strong argument can be made for the use of anti seize. Assembling threaded fasteners dry can result in galling, improper torque measurement, and failure. The problem is especially prevalent in many aluminum, stainless, and titanium alloys. It's good practice to use anti-seize on all the fasteners of your bike. If you have reason to use thread-locker, that's fine. Just don't assemble things dry. Grease is better than nothing, but not all that good. 

For your saddle creaks, put a thin film of anti-seize not only on the threads, but on all the surfaces mounting your saddle: rails, clamps, rocker, etc.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I was rebuilding a 213, had some trouble. The oil spec is for 60 ml for that stroke, however, it felt like it was at hydraulic lock at the bottom of the stroke for this volume of oil. I tried measuring volume with two different syringes, to be sure. Ultimately I pulled off 2ml and could get full travel again. Anyone else run into this problem?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

BmoreKen said:


> Is it best to use grease or blue loctite on the saddle bolts?
> I have been using grease, but that may explain why I eventually get creaking coming from the saddle rail vicinity: grease attracts dirt, and when I make adjustments or remove the saddle to add pressure, that dirt works it's way into places leading to creaking.
> So maybe I just answered my own question <shrugs>
> What are your thoughts?











BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting


Shim? How does it look like? Obviously, like a brass shim. ) Let me find it for you: https://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-1033134-4.html#post13744688




www.mtbr.com


----------



## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

ka81ua said:


> BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting
> 
> 
> Shim? How does it look like? Obviously, like a brass shim. ) Let me find it for you: https://forums.mtbr.com/components/bikeyoke-revive-1033134-4.html#post13744688
> ...


Interesting…


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## The_Bob (Jan 16, 2018)

Anyone using a BikeYoke Willy? Have one on my Pyga and another coming for my Top Fuel. Simple little invention that should be standard on all bikes IMO


----------



## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

anybody know where to order a Revive piston shaft from? mine got a tiny tiny nick during a rebuild-will that cause a problem?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

dwyooaj said:


> tiny tiny nick during a rebuild-will that cause a problem?


close-view photos would help you get some answers better..


----------



## ribbs76 (Apr 27, 2019)

Hi all, I just bought a new Ripley with a Bike Yoke. I haven’t rode it for a few weeks now and I just noticed that the thumb lever won’t engage to actuate the dropper. I can push it with a decent amount of force and it won’t budge. The dropper won’t drop as the lever doesn’t move far enough to pull the cable. Anyone have this experience? Is it the lever or the cable?(i’m assuming it’s the lever). With hindsight I have noticed it before but with a bit of extra pressure it would make a pop sound and everything would work. Now it just won’t move. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## The_Bob (Jan 16, 2018)

Remove the post and see what is happening at the actuator.


----------



## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

ka81ua said:


> close-view photos would help you get some answers better..


Well. I went ahead and put it together, So far so good, seems solid


----------



## The_Bob (Jan 16, 2018)

ribbs76 said:


> Hi all, I just bought a new Ripley with a Bike Yoke. I haven’t rode it for a few weeks now and I just noticed that the thumb lever won’t engage to actuate the dropper. I can push it with a decent amount of force and it won’t budge. The dropper won’t drop as the lever doesn’t move far enough to pull the cable. Anyone have this experience? Is it the lever or the cable?(i’m assuming it’s the lever). With hindsight I have noticed it before but with a bit of extra pressure it would make a pop sound and everything would work. Now it just won’t move.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do a reset on the post and it should sort it out


----------



## akantus178 (Mar 20, 2018)

ribbs76 said:


> Hi all, I just bought a new Ripley with a Bike Yoke. I haven’t rode it for a few weeks now and I just noticed that the thumb lever won’t engage to actuate the dropper. I can push it with a decent amount of force and it won’t budge. The dropper won’t drop as the lever doesn’t move far enough to pull the cable. Anyone have this experience? Is it the lever or the cable?(i’m assuming it’s the lever). With hindsight I have noticed it before but with a bit of extra pressure it would make a pop sound and everything would work. Now it just won’t move.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do the revive first, the lever should be able to move with normal force again.

I've noticed it during winter months after sitting for a while. Doesn't happen often tho.


----------



## ribbs76 (Apr 27, 2019)

akantus178 said:


> Do the revive first, the lever should be able to move with normal force again.
> 
> I've noticed it during winter months after sitting for a while. Doesn't happen often tho.


I did a reset with a longer 4mm Allen in order to get enough leverage. It’s my first Bike yoke so I haven’t fully appreciated how cool this reset system is. It works now. The company advised me to keep the saddle lowered a little bit, by roughly 1cm, when bringing(storing) the bike in from the cold to accommodate the expansion in the oil. 

It’s such a great dropper, I’m just not used to quality post living with a Reverb for so long. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Golf_Chick (Aug 22, 2013)

OneUp said:


> Hey there,
> 
> It sounds like you might be experiencing a few different issues here, which we're keen to help you solve. Please reach out to us - [email protected]
> With some background info (proof of purchase, shipping address, troubleshooting steps you've already taken), and we can work to get you rolling smoothly!
> ...


Cheers I've tried the oversized pin kit to remove the play and the post wouldn't even function correctly with either of the oversized pins in so was a waste of money. The play is still there in the head and I find the actuator really hard to move unlike my boyfriends which actuates a lot easier and I'm not sinking more money into it to get it working how I would like or expect and just know it's not as nice as alternatives and I just suck it up really.


----------



## dtheo (Sep 18, 2005)

I am having trouble reviving my revive. It began needing reviving when bike was stored vertically. First few times, it worked fine, but now there is a little bit of give in the post when fully extended and locked. It sags about 1/4-1/2" when I put weight on it. If I try and revive it again, it gets really bad and requires a few more revives to get it back to working.
Any ideas what to do?

thanks


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

dtheo said:


> Any ideas what to do?


----------



## EJ_92606 (Jul 11, 2004)

My post is two years old and I hadn't serviced it. My shop told me, oh you don't really need to service these, we'll just add some air for you. Well it started developing a clunk/play a few weeks after that, so I ordered the service kit and just did the service. No more clunk and post feels great. I guess I should stay on top of more frequent servicing.


----------



## EJ_92606 (Jul 11, 2004)

dtheo said:


> I am having trouble reviving my revive. It began needing reviving when bike was stored vertically. First few times, it worked fine, but now there is a little bit of give in the post when fully extended and locked. It sags about 1/4-1/2" when I put weight on it. If I try and revive it again, it gets really bad and requires a few more revives to get it back to working.
> Any ideas what to do?
> 
> thanks


If you haven't done so, read the first post in this thread. Some helpful hints there if the revive is not working for you. Good luck.


----------



## Two_bricks (Mar 18, 2021)

Anyone else having problems with their Revive in really cold conditions? Mine starts to struggle in temps around -10°C (14F), and below -15°C it's pretty pointless even trying. Seems the air/oil gets mixed so it get saggy really quick, or sometimes it just stops rising. This despite a fresh cable and service, I've even adjusted the pressure in the cold so that is not the culprit. Haven't tried any other oils with higher VI in case the stock oil gets too thick in the cold.

Thoughts or ideas, or is this simply the behavior of the Revive in the cold?


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

I used Revive 185 at ~ -10°C and not remember any problems...


----------



## EJ_92606 (Jul 11, 2004)

I serviced the lower on my Bike Yoke Revive and it eliminated the clunking I was getting, so I'm happy and it seems to be working well. I'm wondering though, on the last two rides there has been a lot of grease on the post that pushed out, perhaps I simply over-greased it, but the puzzling part is that the slick honey is greenish. I get that it could have picked up some dirt from the ride, but nothing green. The other thing I considered is that the pins might be brass and perhaps that discolors the grease? Anyone else experience this?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

yes, whatever grease you use - outside it's alwasys grey-ish..


----------



## Crossmaxx (Dec 2, 2008)

Two_bricks said:


> Anyone else having problems with their Revive in really cold conditions? Mine starts to struggle in temps around -10°C (14F), and below -15°C it's pretty pointless even trying. Seems the air/oil gets mixed so it get saggy really quick, or sometimes it just stops rising. This despite a fresh cable and service, I've even adjusted the pressure in the cold so that is not the culprit. Haven't tried any other oils with higher VI in case the stock oil gets too thick in the cold.
> 
> Thoughts or ideas, or is this simply the behavior of the Revive in the cold?


I haven't been out in -15°C, but at close to -10° my Revive is still working fine albeit the return speed is much slower (to be expected as the air pressure is dropping considerably). If you're riding frequently in-15°C conditions, I'd consider changing to a fully mechanical, coil dropper.


----------



## tastik (Aug 25, 2021)

Anyone run into an issue where the dropper won't actuate (lever won't move) when seat is up and there is weight on the saddle? How can this be fixed?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

tastik said:


> Anyone run into an issue where the dropper won't actuate (lever won't move) when seat is up and there is weight on the saddle? How can this be fixed?


Maybe, just maybe, .. uhmm.. SERVICE it ?..


----------



## EJ_92606 (Jul 11, 2004)

tastik said:


> Anyone run into an issue where the dropper won't actuate (lever won't move) when seat is up and there is weight on the saddle? How can this be fixed?


Sometimes that is caused by a temperature difference and it works itself out shortly. They recommend that you store your bike with the post less than fully extended.


----------



## tastik (Aug 25, 2021)

EJ_92606 said:


> Sometimes that is caused by a temperature difference and it works itself out shortly. They recommend that you store your bike with the post less than fully extended.


Tried while both warm and cold, didn't make a difference. What causes this exactly?


----------



## EJ_92606 (Jul 11, 2004)

tastik said:


> Tried while both warm and cold, didn't make a difference. What causes this exactly?


From the Revive manual:


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

tastik said:


> Anyone run into an issue where the dropper won't actuate (lever won't move) when seat is up and there is weight on the saddle? How can this be fixed?


I am sure I have seen somewhere in this thread that some actuators can have a rough surface causing this to sometimes be an issue.


----------



## tastik (Aug 25, 2021)

Rick Draper said:


> I am sure I have seen somewhere in this thread that some actuators can have a rough surface causing this to sometimes be an issue.


is there a solution to this?


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

tastik said:


> is there a solution to this?


The behavior you're experiencing is common among many dropper posts. When you're sitting on the saddle, the pressure inside the post is greater. When you activate the dropper lever, the valve plunger in the post must overcome the internal pressure. The more pressure in the post, the harder the valve is to actuate. 

Maybe a long Wolftooth lever would work well for you. Or like most riders, mediate the weight on your saddle as you activate the lever.


----------



## tastik (Aug 25, 2021)

I wonder, is there a way to change the rough actuator on the V1 to the smooth CNC'd V2 actuator? I couldn't find the V2 actuators for sale

edit: never mind, I found it.


----------



## bmaster7 (Mar 25, 2010)

Purchased a new revive. Installing tomorrow. Last post creaked a lot. Install dry, with regular grease, or with assembly compound?


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

bmaster7 said:


> Purchased a new revive. Installing tomorrow. Last post creaked a lot. Install dry, with regular grease, or with assembly compound?


A thin film of whatever grease you have handy. 
Dry invites noise.
Carbon assembly compound scuffs up your pretty parts. 

Don't forget the seatpost rocker and rails.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

tastik said:


> I wonder, is there a way to change the rough actuator on the V1 to the smooth CNC'd V2 actuator? I couldn't find the V2 actuators for sale
> 
> edit: never mind, I found it.


By the way, you can just polish your old one..


----------



## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Anyone know where to buy a 160 mm piston shaft from? Didnt see it on bikeyoke site


----------



## tastik (Aug 25, 2021)

Does anyone know how to remove and re-install the small hollow pin that holds the lever to the foot piece?


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

Roll pin punch


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

tastik said:


> Does anyone know how to remove and re-install the small hollow pin that holds the lever to the foot piece?


Use the most wide (2.5 or 3 or 4 mm (don't remember exact corresponding size)) hex.. and punch it.
seriously, it's just that simple. why asking ?!..


----------



## TylerVernon (Nov 10, 2019)

I lost the grub screw on my Bikeyoke lever that clamps the cable in place. But I had an old Shimano front derailleur, so I pulled out one of the limit screws and it fit, though it's a little long. I feel like such a winner.


----------



## mqkesler (10 mo ago)

sacki said:


> This thread is to be all about the BikeYoke REVIVE, and I´ll try to collect all relevant information and findings in *this initial post*. So it´s worth stopping by here once in a while, as I´ll try to keep the information in this post up to date constantly.
> Before asking question, please check, if you you can find the answer in the first post.
> 
> Please note, that you should only work on your post, if you know what you are doing, and if you are an experienced mechanic. Those information may not be exhaustive.
> ...


 You mentioned that there is always a little sag when seatpost is under pressure. However, I have more than 20mm sag/compression. I have bled the air from the bleeder port up top, but does not seem to change anything. Not sure on air pressure, but it returns quickly without any issues. The cable collar is seated and cable tension is not too tight. Do I need to rebuild the cartridge...? Hope not. Thanks!


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

mqkesler said:


> You mentioned that there is always a little sag when seatpost is under pressure. However, I have more than 20mm sag/compression. I have bled the air from the bleeder port up top, but does not seem to change anything. Not sure on air pressure, but it returns quickly without any issues. The cable collar is seated and cable tension is not too tight. Do I need to rebuild the cartridge...? Hope not. Thanks!


Sacki's not answering here anymore thanx to some ...s .


Full rebuilt usualy fix all the problems.


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

mqkesler said:


> I have more than 20mm sag/compression. I have bled the air from the bleeder port up top, but does not seem to change anything.


The quick and easy test is to remove the seatpost, make sure the actuating lever is free, and then see if you can compress the post with no cable attached. If you can compress it a substantial amount, anything over 1/16", and then it comes to a stop where you can't continue compressing it, there's probably air in the system. Check the bleeding procedure one more time, just to make sure you're doing it right. After that, it stands to reason there's insufficient oil in the system. I don't know how that would happen, but you might want to tear it apart, examine everything, and then reassemble with the proper amount of oil. There is no cartridge.


----------



## mqkesler (10 mo ago)

These are some good ideas. I had turned the bike upside down to work on it and wondered if there had been an oil air mix take place. Letting it sit over the weekend seemed to help it a lot, but the final 20mm sag remains. I have checked to make sure the cable housing is seated and cable connected properly. I like the idea of checking it out of bike. Makes a lot of sense. The final step will be to tear it down. Might as well get new O-rings along with the oil and air valve adapter. Thanks!!!


----------



## TJayL (Aug 27, 2015)

Has anyone ever seen an upper stanchion bushing that is stuck and can’t be removed without damaging it? I’m doing a full rebuilt on my 160 revive v2 and it’s not coming out. I’ve tried to use some gentle force with a small pick and it starts to break if I put any force on it. There isn’t a replacement in my lower or gasket service kits so I’m hesitant to try with any more force.


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

TJayL said:


> Has anyone ever seen an upper stanchion bushing that is stuck and can’t be removed without damaging it? I’m doing a full rebuilt on my 160 revive v2 and it’s not coming out. I’ve tried to use some gentle force with a small pick and it starts to break if I put any force on it. There isn’t a replacement in my lower or gasket service kits so I’m hesitant to try with any more force.


You don't need to remove it as it is pressed in place. It only needs removing if its damaged.


----------



## TJayL (Aug 27, 2015)

Rick Draper said:


> You don't need to remove it as it is pressed in place. It only needs removing if its damaged.


Thanks! The video I’m following shows it dropping out (unless it’s based on the V1 service). I thought it came out easy when I did a lower service on my other post but that was a while ago.


----------



## TJayL (Aug 27, 2015)

Another question, the exploded view shows part number 36, the u-cup, going on what it appears to be the outside of the lower seal head. I assume I’m just interpreting it wrong. Is the u-cup internal to the lower seal head, or does it end up seating in the lower bushing (part 57) when everything gets put back together. Or is it something else complete?

Thanks!


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

TJayL said:


> Another question, the exploded view shows part number 36, the u-cup, going on what it appears to be the outside of the lower seal head. I assume I’m just interpreting it wrong. Is the u-cup internal to the lower seal head, or does it end up seating in the lower bushing (part 57) when everything gets put back together. Or is it something else complete?


Blue U-cap seal #36 installed into lower seal head #35, the lips of U towards post internals. Some post versions got a regular black o-ring instead of U-cap seal. This was the reason of oli leak in my Revive 185.


----------



## Ripbro (May 4, 2020)

When replacing oil, does it matter which tube the oil gets poured into? Also, can I just dump the old oil and pour in the new oil, or do you need to remove the inner cylinder first. Thanks

Reply from Sacki (I should have just emailed them first)

It does not really matter, in which tubeyou pour the oil.
Just make sure it all goes in. 😉
You do not need to remove the inner cyclinder, but I woudl recommend it, because you can clean it and make sure you get out as much old oil as possible.
Oil sticks to all surfaces and it adds up to a few cc/ml, so you might end up with too much oil, if you do not clean.
2-3cc more than it should is not a dealbreaker but it's better to make sure it is rather clean and free of old oil.


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

Here's a little something for you BikeYoke fans. I decided to do a 100 Hour Service on on of my Revives. It's actually easier than I thought it would be, as it doesn't get into the oil/pressure area. 

Really, all this type of service does is clean up and relube between the upper and lower tubes. To my dismay, I found the little foam air filter to be shot. It's very delicate and it gets beat up pretty badly during use. See the attached picture. I didn't want to reuse the old one, as it wasn't doing much any more so it didn't make sense to put it back in there. Nor did I want to wait for one to be shipped from Germany. I found some filter material from an old car restoration, so I cut out a couple. A stack of two of my new ones is close to the thickness of the original.

My point in writing this is to warn you if you've never done a Revive before. Either have some filter material on hand to make replacements, or order up a new one before you start. It doesn't seem likely that an old one can be reused. Considering the incidental cost of the little piece of foam, it would be nice if BikeYoke shipped a spare or two with the new seatposts.


----------



## the-ninth (Nov 1, 2013)

RustyIron said:


> Really, all this type of service does is clean up and relube between the upper and lower tubes. To my dismay, I found the little foam air filter to be shot. It's very delicate and it gets beat up pretty badly during use.


From my experience it is also worthwhile to replace a few of the other parts that tend to wear - BikeYoke sells those in their 100-hour-service-kit:









REVIVE/DIVINE 30.9/31.6 - Dropper Service Kit


Service kit for 100hr Service of Revive and Divine dropper posts (readjusting play and replacing wiper).




www.bikeyoke.de


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

the-ninth said:


> worthwhile to replace a few of the other parts


exactly which ones?..


1x Wiper
6x Glide pin
1x Lower bushing
1x Foam ring
1x C-clip R12


----------



## the-ninth (Nov 1, 2013)

ka81ua said:


> exactly which ones?..


So far I have always replaced all of them when doing the service, and it helped reduce play in the post. Not sure exactly which elements are responsible for that, I‘d guess the glide pins and maybe the bushing?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

the-ninth said:


> Not sure exactly which elements are responsible for that, I‘d guess the glide pins and maybe the bushing?


c'mon, there's no place for guessing.
The ONLY things you want from that service kit to change from time to time are:
1) foam - often
2) glide pins - (IF you install dropper correctly, IF you use your saddle in determined Min and Max) - not often.


----------



## the-ninth (Nov 1, 2013)

ka81ua said:


> The ONLY things you want from that service kit to change from time to time are:
> 1) foam - often
> 2) glide pins - (IF you install dropper correctly, IF you use your saddle in determined Min and Max) - not often.


I‘d think that replacing the wiper makes sense as well, depending on the conditions you are riding in. But in any case, I‘d not do that service every 100 hours but more like once a year, equalling to about 300 hours ride time. And if then I already go through the trouble, I don‘t mind the costs of the kit and then replace everything …


----------



## cadoretteboat (Aug 27, 2011)

ka81ua said:


> c'mon, there's no place for guessing.
> The ONLY things you want from that service kit to change from time to time are:
> 1) foam - often
> 2) glide pins - (IF you install dropper correctly, IF you use your saddle in determined Min and Max) - not often.


Change every thing and be done with it. Or do your own experience and report back.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

cadoretteboat said:


> Change every thing and be done with it. Or do your own experience and report back.


I serviced my Revive for XX times, and I mean real actual FULL service, so yeah, I know what must be dobe, what should be done, what's not that important at all.


----------



## gtaadicto (Mar 27, 2019)

Hello. I did a full rebuild of my Bikeyoke revive 160, and now the lever is quite hard to engage, especially when the post is all the way down. I also notice very high resistance when resetting the post, in the last 30mm of travel.
The pressure is set at 250 psi. If I set it at less psi the lever acts like normal but the post extends noticeably slower.

What could be the issue here? Too much oil?


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I also felt like mine was locking hydraulically at the bottom of the stroke at the specified minimum oil volume. I tried a couple of different syringes, guessing that one was off, or that I overfilled by mistake, but it still felt like it was locking when I gave great care to accuracy. I took out about 2 mL on my 213 drop revive to avoid this.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

When doing a full cartridge rebuild is the appropriate orientation for the blue seal (found in the main seal head) with the groove pointed upward towards the head of the post?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

towards the oil


----------



## gtaadicto (Mar 27, 2019)

gtaadicto said:


> Hello. I did a full rebuild of my Bikeyoke revive 160, and now the lever is quite hard to engage, especially when the post is all the way down. I also notice very high resistance when resetting the post, in the last 30mm of travel.
> The pressure is set at 250 psi. If I set it at less psi the lever acts like normal but the post extends noticeably slower.
> 
> What could be the issue here? Too much oil?


Finally solved it. Too much oil. Removed a bit of oil and it's fine.


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

half_man_half_scab said:


> When doing a full cartridge rebuild is the appropriate orientation for the blue seal (found in the main seal head) with the groove pointed upward towards the head of the post?


Already answered on the previous page. )








BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting


I am sure I have seen somewhere in this thread that some actuators can have a rough surface causing this to sometimes be an issue. is there a solution to this?




www.mtbr.com


----------



## N54tt (Jan 7, 2022)

I’ve found the 100hr service kits… but haven’t been able to find any full rebuild kits. Anyone have any links?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

N54tt said:


> I’ve found the 100hr service kits… but haven’t been able to find any full rebuild kits. Anyone have any links?











BikeYoke | bike accessories, bike parts - bike-components


Purchase bicycle parts and accessories from BikeYoke in our online shop. We offer over 50,000 products, 20 years of experience, fast shipping, a Trusted Shop and personalised service via chat, e-mail or phone.




www.bike-components.de


----------



## N54tt (Jan 7, 2022)

ka81ua said:


> BikeYoke | bike accessories, bike parts - bike-components
> 
> 
> Purchase bicycle parts and accessories from BikeYoke in our online shop. We offer over 50,000 products, 20 years of experience, fast shipping, a Trusted Shop and personalised service via chat, e-mail or phone.
> ...


Thanks, I guess I should have specified links for vendors in the US. It costs more than double the price of the kit to have it shipped to the states. But I think I found it. Searching for “o ring kit” instead of “service kit” did the trick.


----------



## wheatgerm (Jan 30, 2006)

Maybe Universal Cycles?






Universal Cycles -- Seatposts > BikeYoke Seatposts


Seatposts > BikeYoke Seatposts :: UniversalCycles.com - 30,000+ mountain & road cycling parts. Online & in Portland Oregon since 1997. West Coast, East Coast & Midwest warehouses. Retail Stores in Portland, Oregon and Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Instant price matches.




www.universalcycles.com


----------



## N54tt (Jan 7, 2022)

N54tt said:


> Thanks, I guess I should have specified links for vendors in the US. It costs more than double the price of the kit to have it shipped to the states. But I think I found it. Searching for “o ring kit” instead of “service kit” did the trick.





wheatgerm said:


> Maybe Universal Cycles?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


yup that’s where I found it. Order already placed! I had also ordered the Bike Yoke Sanguine oil.


----------



## Majikow (Mar 27, 2021)

Bike Yoke Revive dropper wasn’t returning fully (maybe 1-2 inches short) and over a couple rides got to the point where it wasn’t really returning more than an inch or two when hitting the lever. Went to check the pressure and as I tried to get the valve cap off it started hissing and looked like air and maybe a little oil was bubbling out of the dropper near the edges of the piston on top (not by the valve). Tried putting the adapter and shock pump on and there was probably 25 psi or so in there. So my guess is it was already low on air which is why it wasn't returning after awhile. Anyone seen this before? Just got the bike (2022 Ibis Ripmo AF) recently from the original buyer who only put a few rides on it. I got maybe 10 on it before this happened. I had driven from San Diego to Phoenix (where it was 90-100 during the day) but didn't think a 30 degree temp swing would cause something like this. 

Sounds like I need to do the full rebuild, but how do I figure out which version (v1/v2/v3) of dropper I have or does it even matter? Seems like the O-ring kits might be the same but the service kits are listed differently on Universal cycles.

Loving the dropper post at first (super smooth), but surprised it's having issues already.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Majikow said:


> Seems like the O-ring kits might be the same.


..........................












+ in the datasheet on BikeYoke sire you can find all o-ring dimensions.
Did you even try?..


----------



## N54tt (Jan 7, 2022)

Majikow said:


> Bike Yoke Revive dropper wasn’t returning fully (maybe 1-2 inches short) and over a couple rides got to the point where it wasn’t really returning more than an inch or two when hitting the lever. Went to check the pressure and as I tried to get the valve cap off it started hissing and looked like air and maybe a little oil was bubbling out of the dropper near the edges of the piston on top (not by the valve). Tried putting the adapter and shock pump on and there was probably 25 psi or so in there. So my guess is it was already low on air which is why it wasn't returning after awhile. Anyone seen this before? Just got the bike (2022 Ibis Ripmo AF) recently from the original buyer who only put a few rides on it. I got maybe 10 on it before this happened. I had driven from San Diego to Phoenix (where it was 90-100 during the day) but didn't think a 30 degree temp swing would cause something like this.
> 
> Sounds like I need to do the full rebuild, but how do I figure out which version (v1/v2/v3) of dropper I have or does it even matter? Seems like the O-ring kits might be the same but the service kits are listed differently on Universal cycles.
> 
> Loving the dropper post at first (super smooth), but surprised it's having issues already.


got a pic of where it was leaking from?


----------



## Majikow (Mar 27, 2021)

ka81ua said:


> ..........................
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks. I was reading into it a bit but I'll be honest I've been a little distracted between regular old work and trying to prep for a backpacking trip this weekend (the timing couldn't be worse since I was hoping to bring the bike and hit Mammoth bike park after our trip). I didn't realize there was info at the bottom of the post, so I went and removed it today and got the info (looks like I need kit #3).


----------



## Majikow (Mar 27, 2021)

N54tt said:


> got a pic of where it was leaking from?


Here's a video. Leaking Dropper.MOV

Upon looking at it another time I'm honestly not sure exactly where it was leaking from. Was pretty sure it was the outside of the piston when it was happening, but from the video I'm not sure it's conclusive.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Majikow said:


> Here's a video. Leaking Dropper.MOV
> 
> Upon looking at it another time I'm honestly not sure exactly where it was leaking from. Was pretty sure it was the outside of the piston when it was happening, but from the video I'm not sure it's conclusive.


Just start with replacing orings: 17, 18, 21
13x2/11.5x2
8x1.5
8x2










REVIVE 2.0 160


Bikeyoke's REVIVE 160 ist the world´s first telescopic seatpost with a instant hydraulic reset-function.




www.bikeyoke.de







https://www.bikeyoke.de/media/products/BikeYoke_exploded_view_Revive.pdf


----------



## Majikow (Mar 27, 2021)

Ordered from universal cycles and I'll give it a go when it arrives. Thanks!


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Majikow said:


> Ordered from universal cycles


What I meant is - you don't need to buy rather expensive "o-ring kit" when you can get them from any neighbour Home Dep store..


----------



## Majikow (Mar 27, 2021)

ka81ua said:


> What I meant is - you don't need to buy rather expensive "o-ring kit" when you can get them from any neighbour Home Dep store..


Good call. I’ll probably need to replace or add oil though right? I ordered some of their oil but not sure when it’ll get here. I’ll scan the thread to see if there are alternatives.


----------



## N54tt (Jan 7, 2022)

Majikow said:


> Good call. I’ll probably need to replace or add oil though right? I ordered some of their oil but not sure when it’ll get here. I’ll scan the thread to see if there are alternatives.


O-rings are something that need to be precise to their application. For 20$ I think it’s best To just go with the specific rebuild kit. I checked Home Depot‘s site and couldn’t find the specific rings that ka81ua had listed. 
I bought the o-ring kit, service kit and oil from universal cycles. You can choose the closest warehouse to have it shipped from…and shipping was as expected and on time.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

In my area there are lot of specifically resin (orings, seals,....) stuff stores, and ifcthey sell 23.64×3.56 - it IS 23.64x3.56. 
So, thanx to official Bikeyoke explosion view datasheet - we know exactly what orings we need.
As for oil - use any "fork oil", works as charm.


----------



## ltspd1 (Nov 25, 2007)

I haven’t looked through this entire thread, so if this problem’s been addressed, my apologies. I have an issue I’ve never experienced with the variety of droppers I’ve used over the past 10 years. After working fine for about seven months it has become intermittently sticky when I try to lower it. I emphasize intermittently. One moment it’ll work fine, goes down smoothly with no problem. The very next time I try to lower it it may stick even if it’s only been 30 seconds or so after it worked fine. The next time after that it might work fine, or it might not. Sometimes it only sticks slightly and requires just a little bit of effort to get down, but other times it can be stuck so badly I have to raise my butt off the saddle and then slam it down. This is gotten me in trouble a few times right before I start down a serious drop and couldn’t get it down in time. But, the very next time it might work perfectly. I estimate it sticks to varying degrees about 50% of the time. The seat post torque is fine, in fact I’ve reduced it to about 3.5 NM meters, and I’m reluctant to reduce anymore. The fact it’s an intermittent problem and works fine about half the time makes an over tightened seatpost collar unlikely, at least to my way of thinking. The post is about eight months old and came on a new bike I bought here in town. I’ve had to revive it five or six times, but other than that it’s worked fine until this problem started. Since it’s still under warranty I plan to take it back to the shop where I bought the bike, but I’m not entirely comfortable with their service department and they are the only authorized Bike Yoke dealer in town. I’d like to at least have an idea what the problem is before I take it in. I’ve tried unsuccessfully to find a number for BY here in the States...if anybody has one I’d appreciate you letting me know what it is. Thoughts?


----------



## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

I'd do a quick service


----------



## ltspd1 (Nov 25, 2007)

Thanks


----------



## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

Did it help?


----------



## big.griff1 (Jan 15, 2020)

What grease can be used for lower service? Slickoleum?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Any....


----------



## ltspd1 (Nov 25, 2007)

dysfunction said:


> Did it help?


I had it serviced and after one ride it’s working fine


----------



## big.griff1 (Jan 15, 2020)

Did a search here but not seeing a solution I don’t think. I have a 6 month old 213mm Revive that has developed some play between the upper and lower shaft at full height. Bought a service kit and installed that thinking that would fix it but it didn’t. Is there something that I’m missing? Upper bushing that is below the dust wiper?


----------



## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

It has been at least a year since I looked at this thread. I don't know if this subject has been covered because this is a long thread. 

First off, I want to say I am happy with my Bike Yoke droppers. I wanted to post this to help anyone out that might be having the same issue.

About a year ago I purchased a new 213mm Revive 2.0 in 31.6. About a month after I installed it, a creak developed near the saddle area. I know some others in this thread had a similar issue. I tried all of the soulutions: different saddle, grease, electrical shrink wrap etc. Noise was only when pedaling and side to side motion on the saddle. Drove me nuts trying to figure out what the problem was. I finally just purchased a second Revive and set this one aside. The other day I sat down and took a better look and finally found the problem. Cracked seat clamp! Makes sense right...

Yes I used a torque wrench to properly tighten the bolts. I am over 200 lbs though. 

So, does anyone know where I can get another clamp for a Revive 2.0? I found one at U-cycles but it is for the Divine. Are they the same part?

Thanks to everyone that has added informative info on this thread.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I too use a torque wrench, but cracked three of those before they started adding more material. I usually got them from Modern Bike, but they appear to be out. BTI is the USA distributor, so you might order one through your LBS?


----------



## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

According to Upper saddle clamp 2.0

it's the same

REVIVE upper saddle clamp
version 2.0

compatible with:

REVIVE / REVIVE 2.0
REVIVE MAX
DIVINE
DIVINE SL
DIVINE SL RASCAL


----------



## NorCalTaz (Nov 12, 2013)

bubba13 said:


> It has been at least a year since I looked at this thread. I don't know if this subject has been covered because this is a long thread.
> 
> First off, I want to say I am happy with my Bike Yoke droppers. I wanted to post this to help anyone out that might be having the same issue.
> 
> ...


I strongly suggest you get it replaced before you ride again. I found a similar crack on the upper clamp when tracking down a creak, found the creak elsewhere, and put it on my "To Do" list, figuring it would cause a creak or something if it got worse. Well, today I was out riding and was surprised by my seat suddenly breaking off, fortunately, I did not get hurt. What kicks my ass here is that I had an extra on hand and had not switched it out. I will now be using a torque wrench and doing regular checking on it before rides. I'm a Clyde at 250 lbs and hope this won't be a repeat problem, if so, I will be going back to my OneUp dropper.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Damn that sucks. First they had the cracking problems of the two piece head, now this? 

Anybody know if the Manitou jack uses the same head/clamping mechanism? I believe it is a rebadged revive but am am looking for options here.


----------



## N54tt (Jan 7, 2022)

bubba13 said:


> It has been at least a year since I looked at this thread. I don't know if this subject has been covered because this is a long thread.
> 
> First off, I want to say I am happy with my Bike Yoke droppers. I wanted to post this to help anyone out that might be having the same issue.
> 
> ...


If tightened to spec which it appeared you had, why not try and reach out to them and see if it will be covered under warranty before paying for it yourself. They’re warrantied for 2 years, so might as well give it a shot. Try the link below.






Serviceform


Serviceform for our customers




www.bikeyoke.de


----------



## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

Thanks for the reply's everyone. It's a bummer that there have been so many seat clamp failures. Seems like Bike Yoke should just beef the thing up. I don't mind a little extra weight or cost if it makes it more reliable.


----------



## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

Is your failed clamp the latest construction or then one they redesigned because of cracking?

Check this post from Sacki:









BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting


You are correct, I believe that top piece is symmetrical, I drew that arrow on it when I disassembled it to make sure it went back on as it came off but it wasn't needed. The bottom half of the clamp is not though, and I make sure the "longer part" of the rails points towards the back, per...




www.mtbr.com


----------



## NorCalTaz (Nov 12, 2013)

arnea said:


> Is your failed clamp the latest construction or then one they redesigned because of cracking?
> 
> Check this post from Sacki:
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing this, problem for me when a thread gets this long is it's so easy to miss stuff. The clamp that broke on me was a V2 clamp and I just replaced it with the V3 clamp which appears to be more robust.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

NorCalTaz said:


> with the V3 clamp


where did you find it ?
I see only 2.0 here - REVIVE SPARE PARTS


----------



## arnea (Feb 21, 2010)

This 2.0 is the updated one. The first version was totally different with an asymmetric design.


----------



## Tronner (Dec 13, 2012)

I got a 30.9 Revive 185 with a used bike I bought. Even after maybe 10 revive procedures I still have about 1/4" of "squish" or play downward in the seat. I bought the service kit. Should the lower service take care of that or are there any other known easy fixes for that issue? Thanks!


----------



## NorCalTaz (Nov 12, 2013)

ka81ua said:


> where did you find it ?
> I see only 2.0 here - REVIVE SPARE PARTS


It's a bit confusing, the post itself is V2, but the clamp is V3. The V3 clamp looks a bit different as the holes for the bolts are a bit smaller and there is more material around them, not a bunch, but it is noticeable. I got mine from Modern Bike, but I see that they are out of stock right now. Good Luck

If you have not already, check out this post, it explains things well:
BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting

UPDATE: I filled out a warranty form asking for a replacement, while it might not be needed now, it does appear that having one in the hole is a good idea. I am pretty sure that if the clamp fails again I will be going back to my OneUp dropper, hope not, I really prefer the BIke Yoke.


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

Tronner said:


> I got a 30.9 Revive 185 with a used bike I bought. Even after maybe 10 revive procedures I still have about 1/4" of "squish" or play downward in the seat. I bought the service kit. Should the lower service take care of that or are there any other known easy fixes for that issue? Thanks!


The "Revive Procedure" should get rid of any squish. If there's sufficient oil in the system, I don't see how it couldn't fix the squish problem. The lower service really just takes care of the guiding part of the system.


----------



## Tronner (Dec 13, 2012)

RustyIron said:


> The "Revive Procedure" should get rid of any squish. If there's sufficient oil in the system, I don't see how it couldn't fix the squish problem. The lower service really just takes care of the guiding part of the system.


Interesting. Mine definitely has an issue then. I have a Revive on my other bike and one "revive" always firms it right up. This one - 10 of them in a row and I push on the seat and it drops about 1/4" every time. I've done it fast, slow, etc but never fully removes all air.


----------



## N54tt (Jan 7, 2022)

Tronner said:


> Interesting. Mine definitely has an issue then. I have a Revive on my other bike and one "revive" always firms it right up. This one - 10 of them in a row and I push on the seat and it drops about 1/4" every time. I've done it fast, slow, etc but never fully removes all air.


I believe you’re supposed to wait a little before doing a consecutive revive. It may also be low on fluid?


----------



## Tronner (Dec 13, 2012)

N54tt said:


> I believe you’re supposed to wait a little before doing a consecutive revive. It may also be low on fluid?


Honestly it may just be the fluid. I'll look up the procedure to add some. Hopefully it's easy


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Tronner said:


> I got a 30.9 Revive 185 with a used bike I bought. Even after maybe 10 revive procedures I still have about 1/4" of "squish" or play downward in the seat. I bought the service kit. Should the lower service take care of that or are there any other known easy fixes for that issue? Thanks!


There is some give in the post at top out. It's normal to have 1/8 inch of sag under load.


----------



## Tronner (Dec 13, 2012)

alexbn921 said:


> There is some give in the post at top out. It's normal to have 1/8 inch of sag under load.


Like I say, I have another one on my main bike and there is almost no give. EDIT: I looked at the service manual - says 1-2mm which is about 1/16" at most. This one sags at least 1/4" and maybe more. There is definitely something not functioning properly.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I've found that fluid loss result from the blue u-cup seal failing. This one gives out on me a few times a year. You can tell it's happening if the actuator is oily.


----------



## Tronner (Dec 13, 2012)

half_man_half_scab said:


> I've found that fluid loss result from the blue u-cup seal failing. This one gives out on me a few times a year. You can tell it's happening if the actuator is oily.


I'll pull it out and look at the actuator. How difficult is it to swap the seal?


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I found it more difficult than most. It would be less stressful if I had a set of sharp plastic seal picks.


----------



## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

Any one got any ideas how to stop this on my 213mm revive? It’s only 3 or 4 rides old from new

I’m assuming this isn’t normal, as it’s pretty awful to listen to climbing over every bump I hit only time it doesnt do it is descending when my arse isn’t sat on and off it

there’s very little side to side play - this ispushing up and down on it not sideways - it almost feels like somethings loose inside when you do it 









Bikeyoke revive 213mm noise







youtube.com





any thoughts appreciated i though buying this would be the end of dropper issues


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Why asking ?


----------



## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

?? Why am I asking? Because it’s annoying as hell listening to it over every bump climbing surely isn’t normal?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Yes, Why are you asking?. )

1. If you are asking about problem that definitely ibside your dropper and you're gonna disassemble it and fix the problem by yourself - then anyway you will disassemble and find out what's the reason and try to fix it , rrright?
2. You are asking but not gonna do anything (like 90% of local owners) and finally you'll send it to your Service or LBS or whatever.. This ?. 

Yes, dear Didzy, it has some problem, not common. Yes, dropper needs to be disassembled and inspected for some (not known for now) problem. Just do it.


----------



## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

Ah well it’s literally only a few rides old from new so I didn’t know if this was normal or not on this post

I’m not sure I should have to be taking it apart after such a short period of time, but also don’t want to send it in for repair if it’s totally normal for this post 

alternatively if it’s a easy fix for me to do myself then I’d be willing to have a go, as it’s pretty damn annoying in use with the noise


----------



## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

They're pretty easy to disassemble. They put a really good series of videos on YouTube. I've never had a clunker.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Nope, nothing common here, it's definitely a problem. And there's no easy fix. So, only disassembling. 
So, your move, Didzy )


----------



## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

dysfunction said:


> They're pretty easy to disassemble. They put a really good series of videos on YouTube. I've never had a clunker.


thanks man to confirm then this is not normal by grabbing the shaft it shouldn’t move up and down like this causing this horrid noise?


----------



## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

ka81ua said:


> Nope, nothing common here, it's definitely a problem. And there's no easy fix. So, only disassembling.
> So, your move, Didzy )


great thanks man I just wanted to know it isn’t normal, I thought not but i know some posts have some weird quirks


----------



## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

Didzy2009 said:


> thanks man to confirm then this is not normal by grabbing the shaft it shouldn’t move up and down like this causing this horrid noise?


Nope, not in my experience. It'd drive me round the bend too.


----------



## N54tt (Jan 7, 2022)

My 125 has zero play. Sounds like yours is brand new. I would take it back to where you bought it from and see what they can do. If that doesn’t work use this link. shouldn’t have to be taking apart a brand new dropper.






Serviceform


Serviceform for our customers




www.bikeyoke.de


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Didzy2009 said:


> Ah well it’s literally only a few rides old from new so I didn’t know if this was normal or not on this post
> 
> I’m not sure I should have to be taking it apart after such a short period of time, but also don’t want to send it in for repair if it’s totally normal for this post
> 
> alternatively if it’s a easy fix for me to do myself then I’d be willing to have a go, as it’s pretty damn annoying in use with the noise


I don't see any reason that a young awesome owner of Revive should't disassemble his dropper, and yes - it's easy as f... . 
And i don't think it would avoid a warranty.


----------



## N54tt (Jan 7, 2022)

ka81ua said:


> I don't see any reason that a young awesome owner of Revive should't disassemble his dropper, and yes - it's easy as f... .
> And i don't think it would avoid a warranty.


It doesn’t matter how easy it is disassemble. If it’s not normal, Someone shouldn’t have to disassemble a brand new dropper and figure out themselves what’s wrong with it.


----------



## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

Thanks guys appreciate the responses, yes if it was a year old or due a service I’d have no problems whipping it apart, but I think as it’s so new I’ll see what importers say etc or try get a new one sorted - it’s like a weird top out knock, but it also feels like somethings moving like it’s not tightened down proper somewhere in the post


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

N54tt said:


> It doesn’t matter how easy it is disassemble. If it’s not normal, Someone shouldn’t have to disassemble a brand new dropper and figure out themselves what’s wrong with it.


And yet with brand new forks it's pretty common to drop the lowers and put in the correct amount of oil.


----------



## N54tt (Jan 7, 2022)

006_007 said:


> And yet with brand new forks it's pretty common to drop the lowers and put in the correct amount of oil.


That is true. But in the words of Seth from Berm Peak, it‘s a little bit different but kinda the same….lol. I took the brand new Marzocchi z2 that came on my RZ3, did a lower service and changed the oil…because I knew they didn’t come with foam rings and wanted to install them. BUT the fork did work as expected and didn’t have an issue per se that I was trying to tear down and figure out what’s wrong. New forks with incorrect amounts of oil are unfortunately common.….but there’s also nothing mechanically wrong with them. @Didzy2009‘s dropper clearly has something wrong with it IMO. Is it common for revive droppers to have the issue he has? I honestly don’t know, but it doesn’t seem like it from the responses here and I just know mine doesn’t do it.


----------



## ipedalhard (Apr 25, 2021)

I'm not sure how to search this particular thread - apologies if this has been covered prior: BikeYoke states that different suspension oils can be used. I have Fox 20wt gold as as well Fox 5wt PTFE. Can I use one of these for the service? Which one is recommended?


----------



## N54tt (Jan 7, 2022)

ipedalhard said:


> I'm not sure how to search this particular thread - apologies if this has been covered prior: BikeYoke states that different suspension oils can be used. I have Fox 20wt gold as as well Fox 5wt PTFE. Can I use one of these for the service? Which one is recommended?


I bought the Bike Yoke sanguine oil. Figured can’t go wrong with their own dropper fluid.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

N54tt said:


> I bought the Bike Yoke sanguine oil. Figured can’t go wrong with their own dropper fluid.


You do realise he's asking about two particular oils that he HAS ?..


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

ipedalhard said:


> I'm not sure how to search this particular thread - apologies if this has been covered prior: BikeYoke states that different suspension oils can be used. I have Fox 20wt gold as as well Fox 5wt PTFE. Can I use one of these for the service? Which one is recommended?


I guess the only way to find out is to try by yourself. If fullyservicing such stuff is not a problem for you than ... 
I don't think you'll find anyone here who tried same oils.. 
I'd start with 5wt.


----------



## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

Well, here's a start.. this is what bikeyoke says Sanguine oil is.

(96% MOBIL DTE 10 EXCEL 15 (viscosity: 16 cSt @ 40°C), 4% R.S.P. No Stick Slip)

the 5wt fox should be pretty close, if I recall correctly


Source:


https://www.bikeyoke.de/media/products/BikeYoke_Oil_Lubricants_2022.pdf


----------



## NorCalTaz (Nov 12, 2013)

NorCalTaz said:


> I strongly suggest you get it replaced before you ride again. I found a similar crack on the upper clamp when tracking down a creak, found the creak elsewhere, and put it on my "To Do" list, figuring it would cause a creak or something if it got worse. Well, today I was out riding and was surprised by my seat suddenly breaking off, fortunately, I did not get hurt. What kicks my ass here is that I had an extra on hand and had not switched it out. I will now be using a torque wrench and doing regular checking on it before rides. I'm a Clyde at 250 lbs and hope this won't be a repeat problem, if so, I will be going back to my OneUp dropper.
> 
> View attachment 1991599


UPDATE: Filed a warranty claim a while back and thought they had thrown it in the trash, but found out it had been sitting in my Spam folder for two weeks (go figure), turned out they had replied the next day. After sending them a reply I have a new one coming from BTI. It will be nice to have an extra in case I need it, they did stress to me the need to use some grease on the bolts and to torque to spec.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

ipedalhard said:


> I'm not sure how to search this particular thread - apologies if this has been covered prior: BikeYoke states that different suspension oils can be used. I have Fox 20wt gold as as well Fox 5wt PTFE. Can I use one of these for the service? Which one is recommended?


Gold is NOT suspension fluid. It's way too tacky and heavy.

Fox PTFE should work but might not be ideal.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

So my bike got ”Yoked” today. Went from a Reverb to a Revive.

Couple questions.

Did anyone use some thread lock on the little grub screw that holds the cable to the anchor? It seems like something that could potentially work itself loose over time.

Also the throw of the lever feels really long. Is it is normal?
It feels like it’s twice the distance compared to the OneUp V1 I have on another bike. I’m using the Wolf Tooth lever. The post works nice and smooth.


----------



## N54tt (Jan 7, 2022)

I didn’t use thread lock and haven‘t had an issue yet. But have only been using it since the beginning of the year. Didn’t really think about it When I installed it. I feel like the friction of the screw against the cable might help prevent it from loosening, but I guess it can’t be a bad idea to use some thread lock? The tranzX dropper it replaced uses the other end of the cable and a cable adaptor, eliminating the screw. Prefer that design more and would of liked Bikeyoke to use it. Think PNW uses that design too…oh well. 

Which Wolf Tooth remote did you get, standard or light action? The light action might have a longer throw because it has a longer lever? That being said I use the light action, and don‘t notice a difference with the generic remote it replaced nor with a PNW lever on my daughters bike. If it takes some distance before the dropper is even actuated, try tightening the tension with the barrel adjuster to take up the slack.


----------



## ipedalhard (Apr 25, 2021)

alexbn921 said:


> Gold is NOT suspension fluid. It's way too tacky and heavy.
> 
> Fox PTFE should work but might not be ideal.


Rebuilt my dropper and damper - used Fox PTFE. Went for a big ride the next day and the dropper worked flawlessly.

Maybe I should have done the 100 hr. service earlier, not at 700-800 hours but oh well...


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

Are the travel adjust spacers from a Divine cross-compatible with the Revive?


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

ipedalhard said:


> Maybe I should have done the 100 hr. service earlier, not at 700-800 hours but oh well...


Today I did the inner "cartridge" service on one of my Revives. It was MUCH easier than I expected. The expanded parts diagram makes it look nightmarish, but it's nothing at all like that.


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

What size o-ring do I need for the Reset Lever on the Revive?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

RustyIron said:


> What size o-ring do I need for the Reset Lever on the Revive?


2.5x1


----------



## Grassington (Jun 24, 2017)

RS VR6 said:


> So my bike got ”Yoked” today. Went from a Reverb to a Revive.
> 
> Couple questions.
> 
> ...


Yes, I used some Loctite 243 medium strength thread lock when I installed a new Revive recently, then instantly regretted it as I had to adjust the anchor position slightly and I couldn't remove the grub screw without destroying it. It didn't help that the grub screw had a slightly over-size hex socket so any hex key or driver I tried just spun out. Fortunately the anchor for a KS Lev is exactly the same size, and I had one of those spare. The second anchor got fitted dry, and it's hanging in there just fine.

I took a gamble on the Revive as I didn't know if it was compatible with my KS Lev 2X lever, but reading the Revive manual revealed that the cable actuation pull is 10 mm, which is about what I measured the KS lever throw to be. Happily, they work very well together.

Another issue I initially had was with collar clamp torque. BikeYoke recommend 5 Nm max, but I know it took about 7 Nm (a bit above spec) to keep my previous KS Lev from slowly sinking into the frame and rotating, so I torqued the Revive up to 5 Nm and found it made the post bind. I backed it off to the point where it stopped binding (later measured at 4 Nm), and so far I've put about 20 hours of riding on it and it hasn't shifted at all. I used the same assembly regime as with my KS (anti-fretting assembly compound on the inserted section, with a bit of Tacx grip paste on the collar section), so I'm assuming the better staying power of the BikeYoke is down to the grooves machined in the body. I initially thought these were just a bit of rough finish from lathe turning, but now I'm inclined to think they're a deliberate grip feature. Whatever, I know neither the Reverb or Lev posts I've used in the past would have stayed put at 4 Nm.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

Could try purple Loctite instead of blue, if you feel compelled to prep in this way.


----------



## Grassington (Jun 24, 2017)

half_man_half_scab said:


> Could try purple Loctite instead of blue, if you feel compelled to prep in this way.


I was thinking exactly the same thing at the time! I'd have just about got away with the medium strength thread lock if it wasn't for the sloppy-socketed grub screw rounding out, but some low strength Loctite would have been much more suitable for this cable anchor, and also for the low-torque fasteners on handlebar-mounted components and suchlike.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Grassington said:


> Yes, I used some Loctite 243 medium strength thread lock when I installed a new Revive recently, then instantly regretted it as I had to adjust the anchor position slightly and I couldn't remove the grub screw without destroying it. It didn't help that the grub screw had a slightly over-size hex socket so any hex key or driver I tried just spun out. Fortunately the anchor for a KS Lev is exactly the same size, and I had one of those spare. The second anchor got fitted dry, and it's hanging in there just fine.
> 
> I took a gamble on the Revive as I didn't know if it was compatible with my KS Lev 2X lever, but reading the Revive manual revealed that the cable actuation pull is 10 mm, which is about what I measured the KS lever throw to be. Happily, they work very well together.
> 
> Another issue I initially had was with collar clamp torque. BikeYoke recommend 5 Nm max, but I know it took about 7 Nm (a bit above spec) to keep my previous KS Lev from slowly sinking into the frame and rotating, so I torqued the Revive up to 5 Nm and found it made the post bind. I backed it off to the point where it stopped binding (later measured at 4 Nm), and so far I've put about 20 hours of riding on it and it hasn't shifted at all. I used the same assembly regime as with my KS (anti-fretting assembly compound on the inserted section, with a bit of Tacx grip paste on the collar section), so I'm assuming the better staying power of the BikeYoke is down to the grooves machined in the body. I initially thought these were just a bit of rough finish from lathe turning, but now I'm inclined to think they're a deliberate grip feature. Whatever, I know neither the Reverb or Lev posts I've used in the past would have stayed put at 4 Nm.


I did have to remove the grub screw to change cables. Fortunately I was able to remove the grub screw. I used a fairly small amount on the tip of the screw. I did not use any the second time around.

I have my seat clamp at 3nm. This is what the seat clamp (Woodman Deathgrip SL) has as the max torque. Interesting take on the machining of the post. Its something I've never really paid attention to on any of my dropper posts.


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

My Revive 160 had Seal Head (part 35) unscrew itself and lost all oil. This is the 2nd time this has happened. Both times it took about 200 rides for this to happen. My post is a prototype V2, so I hope this is uncommon. I assume the machining may be different than production run. Sacki has been great since I started using Revive’s about 4 years ago, so THIS time I am not trying to warranty. Sacki has been very generous twice already. I spent $12 on Bikeyoke Sanguin Oil. I refilled oil today, and I’m trying Blue Locktight on Seal Head threads to top tube. I’m letting that dry upside down for 24 hours before assembling into Lower tube. I ordered O-Ring kit (about 15-20 rings) but I’m confident there are no issues with this posts o-rings, as the seal head was loose upon disassembly. Hopefully I will return O-ring kit for refund and repair will be $12 plus some time. I will post here again mid week after a ride or 2, we’ll see how it goes. This post is really pretty easy to work on vs Fork Dampers, just check out videos. If you get into upper tube service, maybe try some blue locktight on seal head, but keep it from contaminating oil. I was very precise about how I applied it to threads. Keep in mind there is the Seal Head outer O-ring that should keep Post oil from reaching threads anyhow.


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

hoolie said:


> I spent $12 on Bikeyoke Sanguin Oil. I refilled oil today, and I’m trying Blue Locktight on Seal Head threads to top tube. I’m letting that dry upside down for 24 hours before assembling into Lower tube.


The Loctite sounds like a sensible course of action. I've only had my Revives apart a couple times, and can't visualize how the lower seal head goes together. I distinctly remember, however, instructions suggesting the use of Loctite on the actuator housing. I'll remember to look at #35 next time I do service.


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Alright! A few test rides (4-5) on the post repair, everything works great. I did not replace ANY o-Rings. Just filled with new oil, and hopefully the Seal Head stays put. Post works as it should.


----------



## Colonel Flagg (Jan 7, 2006)

I must have got a lemon. Less than a year of using my Revive I had to stop and reset it four or five times on every ride. I had to send it in for service (they wouldn't fix it under warranty so it was nearly $150 service) and less than a year later it stopped working all together. When it worked it was great but it has been awful based on how expensive they are. 

Not buying another one of these junkers.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

Colonel Flagg said:


> I must have got a lemon. Less than a year of using my Revive I had to stop and reset it four or five times on every ride. I had to send it in for service (they wouldn't fix it under warranty so it was nearly $150 service) and less than a year later it stopped working all together. When it worked it was great but it has been awful based on how expensive they are.
> 
> Not buying another one of these junkers.


Do you weigh more than 200lbs? I think there's a reliability divide among the hefty and sprightly.


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Colonel Flagg said:


> I must have got a lemon. Less than a year of using my Revive I had to stop and reset it four or five times on every ride. I had to send it in for service (they wouldn't fix it under warranty so it was nearly $150 service) and less than a year later it stopped working all together. When it worked it was great but it has been awful based on how expensive they are.
> 
> Not buying another one of these junkers.


To dismiss Bikeyoke as a ”junker” is short sighted. You are ignoring the history and reliability of ALL dropper post brands, over the last 10 years. Bikeyoke is really the only brand that worked correctly from its inception. One Up Brand was late to the game, seems great too! If you owned a FOX D.O.S.S. , or a failure prone Rockshox product around 2010, you would appreciate the success of Bikeyoke and its positive influence in this product segment. Good luck to you on whatever better product you choose. If you would like to contribute in a positive way to this thread, we would appreciate you posting what the problem actually is with this unit, if you get an answer, it helps us all, Thanks.

Some people get a “Lemon”, Maxxis DHF that has a bubble in the casing, no need to throw Maxxis under the bus because of one bad unit. Maxxis are great tires.


----------



## N54tt (Jan 7, 2022)

Colonel Flagg said:


> I must have got a lemon. Less than a year of using my Revive I had to stop and reset it four or five times on every ride. I had to send it in for service (they wouldn't fix it under warranty so it was nearly $150 service) and less than a year later it stopped working all together. When it worked it was great but it has been awful based on how expensive they are.
> 
> Not buying another one of these junkers.


what do you mean by stopped working all together? It no longer raises? Stuck in extended position? What’s the air pressure? What Was their reasoning for not covering it under warranty while it was still in warranty period? 

Not doubting you had a dropper that didn’t work as expected. But some more information would be beneficial to the community.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Bikeyoke is the gold standard of droppers. Nothing comes close to the smooth action.


----------



## ipedalhard (Apr 25, 2021)

Does anybody own a 34.9mm x 213mm that wants to downsize to a 185mm? I'm looking to extend my range of drop - let me know! Very happy with the brand/model!


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

hoolie said:


> Some people get a “Lemon”, Maxxis DHF that has a bubble in the casing, no need to throw Maxxis under the bus because of one bad unit. Maxxis are great tires.


People do this all the time. A few go bad years ago...then those few that did go bad will always get brought up...even though the product itself has seen improvements and are no longer prone to failure.


----------



## VeryTall1 (2 mo ago)

Question: My Revive 2.0 dropper won't stay extended with weight on it. I tried doing a reset but the reset valve barrel just spins. It's not stripped. I can see the whole valve barrel rotating freely. I don't see anything in the troubleshooting guide on this. Any ideas?


----------



## N54tt (Jan 7, 2022)

VeryTall1 said:


> Question: My Revive 2.0 dropper won't stay extended with weight on it. I tried doing a reset but the reset valve barrel just spins. It's not stripped. I can see the whole valve barrel rotating freely. I don't see anything in the troubleshooting guide on this. Any ideas?


you’ll need to remove the saddle to get to the top of the dropper and get a better look of what’s going on. You’ll need to do that anyway to check the air pressure…which should do if it’s not staying extended. The reset knob is connected to metal lever that pushes a pin down. Unless that metal lever is broken..I don’t see how it can spin freely.


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

VeryTall1 said:


> the reset valve barrel just spins.


If it's fully assembled, it can't just spin. It's hard to tell by the exploded diagram, but I think the part that is spinning is #10. The lever part that pushes the plunger and wouldn't allow spinning is #8. If yours is spinning, and the seatpost won't stay up, then the most plausible explanation is that #8 came unscrewed and is jammed up in there. Checking is as easy as removing the saddle while the seatpost is still on the bike.


----------



## VeryTall1 (2 mo ago)

Thanks, I'll give it a look!


----------



## paweliania (Jun 15, 2009)

Hello, I have what I believe is the v1.b Revive 185mm post. It returns very slowly. It does return all the way and it doesn’t sag. I feel like it started happening after riding in very cold weather. I checked pressure, bolt tightness on seat tube, and cleaned the foam pad as well as wiped the lowers off without performing the 100hr service. Still doing the same thing. After riding in cold you could hear the fluid working hard in post. Like it was thick or something. After bike was inside for a while and back to normal temp the fluid sound went away, it just doesn’t return back to top quickly. Any one have any ideas what could be causing the slow return?


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

paweliania said:


> It returns very slowly. It does return all the way and it doesn’t sag. I feel like it started happening after riding in very cold weather.


Same symptoms here. I have two Revives and service them regularly, so I'm a bit familiar with the internals. This is a cold winter, and I've been traveling to riding areas that are even colder, and it seems that temperature is a contributing factor. 

The first problem was with the retaining cap... blue bushing thing... that holds the pins in place. Mine was cracked and tight. They seem to swell a bit over time. I machined a replacement, but you can buy them as part of the rebuild kit from BikeYoke. 

The retainer bushing solved the worst part of the problem, but the seatpost still isn't a bollocks-knocker. The remaining sluggishness, I believe, is a result of increased lubricant friction due to thickening. I already use a light NLGI #0 grease, but I just looked at the specs, and it's good down to -25 degrees. All my super-cold rides are probably over for the season, so I'm not too concerned right now. I expect it will get better as spring approaches. But for the next service, I'll consider an NLGI #00, or maybe even an oil. 

So if you're looking for advice, go ahead and do the easy service on the seatpost. There's no need to work on the oil-side right now. Use a lubricant that's low viscosity and rated for cold temps. Use sparingly.


----------



## paweliania (Jun 15, 2009)

RustyIron said:


> Same symptoms here. I have two Revives and service them regularly, so I'm a bit familiar with the internals. This is a cold winter, and I've been traveling to riding areas that are even colder, and it seems that temperature is a contributing factor.
> 
> The first problem was with the retaining cap... blue bushing thing... that holds the pins in place. Mine was cracked and tight. They seem to swell a bit over time. I machined a replacement, but you can buy them as part of the rebuild kit from BikeYoke.
> 
> ...


Great info! Thanks for the response. Ill check out the blue bushing and the retainer bushing. Just to clarify, the retainer bushing is #41 in this diagram?


https://www.bikeyoke.de/media/products/BikeYoke_exploded_view_Revive.pdf


----------



## RustyIron (Apr 14, 2008)

paweliania said:


> Just to clarify, the retainer bushing is #41 in this diagram?


Yeah, that's the one. I'm not sure how tight/free it should be, but keep in mind that it contributes to the friction of the system.


----------

