# Lynksey Titanium M230 - 17" semi custom 1343g



## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

Ok it looks like this forum is lacking in content. I don't know about you guys but constant discussions about disc brake rotors, and alloy bolts is kinda boring. I hope this sparks some cool conversations or inspires someone to posts something other than how to measure bolt sizes.

The bike is a size "M" w/ slightly modified build. The top tube length is 22.5" instead of 22.25" stock length, I had the cables routed on the 4 oclock and 7 oclock position of the top tube and had them drill a drain hole for me. All the other dimensions are the same as listed on the website.

https://www.lynskeyperformance.com/a/pages/2009-products/mountain/houseblend-m230.php

The finish I chose was satin finish as I feel this is the most durable of all finishes they offer. The only thing I pondered was getting the logos etched into the frame, but that was a rather expensive option so I stuck with decals instead.

The goal originally was sub 16.5 lbs race ready w/ a 100mm fork, but every single part I've purchased to this date for this build has been over the claimed weight. So I'm projecting under 17lbs ready to race w/ two cages and pedals. I also gave instructions to the Lynskey team to make it as light as they can.

Here is the result 1343g w/ Level 2 tubing.













































The so called "dent" for Fork Crown clearence that everyone thinks is ugly... You can barely tell it is there!

So why I chose Lynksey Performance:

I always wanted a Litespeed when I was a kid. I could never afford such extravagances doing a paper route or landscaping. When I heard that the Lynskey family was restarting a Titanium bicycle company that got me thinking about my final bicycle purchase to add to my collection.

Yes I do already have a fast light FS race bike (the Kona Hei Hei Supreme), but the allure of Titanium is strong and this is what I wanted ever since I saw what a mountain bike was in the early 90s. I still view Ti as the epitome of bicycle frame material even with the advent of carbon fibre.

In terms of build of the bicycle, I knew that if I was getting a Ti frame must have the following:
-Breezer Style Dropouts
-Disc mount only
-shaped oversized tubing
-light
Which is what the M230 stock frame offered. The M220 (2007 hardtail Lynksey frame) didn't really interest me much because it lacked the Breezer Dropouts.

I had investigated about getting a Titanium hardtail even before I got my Kona Hei Hei Supreme Full Suspension that I built up between the winter of 2007&2008. The choices were:
-Independent Fabrications
-Kent Eriksen 
-Seven
-Used Litespeed or Moots off of ebay

Lynskey wasn't even on the list until I heard they had started up shop again. I chose Lynskey in the end, because Litespeed at the time was the best at shaping tubing, and to create a stiff bike I believe that correctly shaping your downtube to optimize the shape factor near the BB and the Head Tube is what makes a stiff bike. Plus it helped they were having a sale! Too bad the Canadian Dollar tanked just as their sale started...

Right now I'm stoaked about this frame. It is 99% perfect, the last 1% is if it was even lighter. I guess the only way to get lighter is if you can find someone to build you a Ti Frame w/ Reynolds 6/4 butted Ti tubing (which is rumored that Reynolds can't even supply it anymore).


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## Jake Pay (Dec 27, 2006)

Cheers,
Beautimous..I love it..Now get her built








~Jake​


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## Upandatem (Apr 11, 2004)

Sick! What's the parts spec?


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## Severum (Sep 9, 2003)

Drool!!!!!!!!


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## j5ive (Sep 24, 2005)

Very nioce, what $?


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## f3rg (Aug 29, 2007)

Scrolling side-to-side to read comments sucks. Could you re-size those pics, please?


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

j5ive said:


> Very nioce, what $?


Reg sale price is 1695 USD. I paid 300 dollars to upgrade it to what you see.


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## bholwell (Oct 17, 2007)

Excellent :thumbsup: Be sure to post pics once the build is complete.

Lynskey is definitely on my short list for my next frame:cornut:


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## ~ScaryFast~ (Jan 22, 2004)

Very nice frame! I definitely grew up in the era of which you speak, where people lusted after Litespeeds and the like, hence I ride a ti hardtail (but of a lesser marque)...

Anyways, what's the story with satin finish? Is it the same as "brushed" titanium finish? I don't know if it's the pictures, but your frame does not look very shiny....almost looks matte.


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## OuterNational (Apr 7, 2007)

Cheers! said:


> Reg sale price is 1695 USD. I paid 300 dollars to upgrade it to what you see.


How come every price at the bottom of the spec page is near double what you paid? :???:

That frame is worth more than every thing pictured in your kitchen!!:eekster:

Also, how did you get them to make it a custom size, just ordered it like that?


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## Strong Ti (Jun 1, 2005)

*Very nice ...*

it looks really sweet, I hope you get it down to 17lbs.

You could have dropped the extra tube bracing the CS and SS by the disc mount, to save a few grams, I'm not sure if I'd notice a difference in stiffness during braking.


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## Cranked (Jun 1, 2006)

Very nice, a good Ti hardtail is a great option in the bike quiver. I'd be pretty happy with the weight actually, thats not bad. Plus this is a frame you will probably be giving to one of your kids many years from now. So what's the part spec look like?


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## BruceBrown (Jan 16, 2004)

Cheers! said:


> Here is the result 1343g w/ Level 2 tubing.


So the cat is out of the bag where the Middleburn Duo is going.

BB


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## FoShizzle (Jan 18, 2004)

nice!

speaking of Lynskey...thinking about this one as my next project. Made for On One which have the perfect geo IMHO. Sorry to be such an On One whore but i cant help it  might order a few in fact and sell the others..just cant decide if i want the SS specific or one with der hanger (still with slot dropout for option)


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

evan811 said:


> How come every price at the bottom of the spec page is near double what you paid? :???:
> 
> That frame is worth more than every thing pictured in your kitchen!!:eekster:
> 
> Also, how did you get them to make it a custom size, just ordered it like that?


ya i know!

The M230 page is for their regular priced configurations. 1695 is the base price right now and if you want more options you have to email them and inquire.

Basically all you do is just email them and say you are interested in a frame. I called a couple of times and corresponded via email to nail down what I wanted. Canada does not have any dealers so I dealt with the factory directly. It might be different in the USA if they want you to deal with a dealer. However I'm of the impression that a sale is a sale, and there is no way they are going to turn down a sale for you to deal with a dealer.

Lynskey is having the promotion sale as I think they started their shop right at the height of economic times before all the financial and mortgage crisis hit. Last time I talked to them and asked how the sale was going and if there were a lot of purchases... Apprenently a lof of the sales is coming from overseas in Asian, not so much in USA, and very few in Canada. They were also selling their cyclocross frame the most.


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

Cranked said:


> Very nice, a good Ti hardtail is a great option in the bike quiver. I'd be pretty happy with the weight actually, thats not bad. Plus this is a frame you will probably be giving to one of your kids many years from now. So what's the part spec look like?


Ok fine... since so many have asked (including PMs), I was going to make it a surprise. Here is the parts spec. All items in Green I already purchased or have. What I don't have is brakes, pedals, headset, wheels. Also the items in green are real weights weighed on the table top scale.

Speaking of wheels, I'm open to suggestions. I can't find the Acros .54 Ceramic hubs anywhere. BTI is the distributor and they don't even stock the regular hubs. I want Jeremy over at Alchemy Bicycle Works to build my wheels this time, and he can't find the hubs anywhere. He used to be the Tune distributor for USA, but no longer is, so even getting Tune hubs is difficult. My backup plan is Notubes ZTR Race. I'm 165 lbs (a little heavier with beer and x-mas gatherings, and the trails I ride are literally groomed XC race courses only).


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## dinoadventures (May 2, 2008)

just saw that build list... WOW.


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## amillmtb (Jun 24, 2005)

Cheers! said:


> Ok fine... since so many have asked (including PMs), I was going to make it a surprise. Here is the parts spec. All items in Green I already purchased or have. What I don't have is brakes, pedals, headset, wheels. Also the items in green are real weights weighed on the table top scale.
> 
> Speaking of wheels, I'm open to suggestions. I can't find the Acros .54 Ceramic hubs anywhere. BTI is the distributor and they don't even stock the regular hubs. I want Jeremy over at Alchemy Bicycle Works to build my wheels this time, and he can't find the hubs anywhere. He used to be the Tune distributor for USA, but no longer is, so even getting Tune hubs is difficult. My backup plan is Notubes ZTR Race. I'm 165 lbs (a little heavier with beer and x-mas gatherings, and the trails I ride are literally groomed XC race courses only).


Looks like an awesome build! Dunno if this is a good price but...

https://www.ride-this.com/index.php/default/acros-54-disc-hubs.html


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

thanks for the comments. 

Amillmtb: Yes that is a good price. Those ones you listed are for the standard versions. There are two higher models: Ceramics, and Ceramic Ultmates. The 2nd from the top "ceramics" drop the weight quite a bit, it is unknown what the pricing is for this version as I believe it uses hybrid bearings with steel races and ceramic balls (I think). I did find out how much the Ceramic Ultimates cost, they are the top end .54 Acros hubs. 

ACROS .54 Ceramic Ultimate (front = 448.00 euros, rear = $798.00 euros), and I'm not 100% sure what is changed between this ultimate version and the next step down which is the "Ceramic" edition. The website is vague regarding the information. Which is quite unfortunate as websites serve as a excellent means of advertisement. Generally people who go to lengths to research your product are already pretty serious about buying them or have the said money to purchase them and it should be the job of the manufacturer to win the sale right there and then. 

Anyhow... I might have scored a set of Tune King Kong in 28h front, 32h rear in silver. Replacing the easy to replace bearings with Enduro ceramic hybrids should drop the weight ever so little with minimal extra cost.


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## amillmtb (Jun 24, 2005)

Cheers! said:


> thanks for the comments.
> 
> Amillmtb: Yes that is a good price. Those ones you listed are for the standard versions. There are two higher models: Ceramics, and Ceramic Ultmates. The 2nd from teh stop "ceramics" drop the weight quite a bit, it is unknown what the pricing is for this version as I believe it uses hybrid bearings with steel races and ceramic balls (I think). I did find out how much the Ceramic Ultimates cost, they are the top end .54 Acros hubs.
> 
> ...


Oh, sorry I didnt know that those wernt ceramic. Nice job getting the Tune hubs, they are really hard to find here in the US, and they are pretty pricey. You could see if anyone in these forums who lives in Europe will ship the Acros to you...There was someone in the CDale forums who has done that before.


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

Hey* Cheers! *you could complete the spreadsheet with the parts cost, just for us to have an idea.


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

f3rg said:


> Scrolling side-to-side to read comments sucks. Could you re-size those pics, please?


Get opera (www.opera.com) and then click* fit to width*.


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## Thomas (Feb 19, 2004)

If you want Acros try contact Symen at www.jedi-sports.de
I have bought several Acros items (ceramic headset,seatpost, etc)
They have VERY good and fast service,and should be able to help you out.


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

That's a pretty sweet build. You have me looking at Ti frames now. THANKS! I'm a carbon whore, but I've always had a soft spot for Ti. Is the Manitou MRD R7 the ABS or the TPC?


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

sergio_pt said:


> Hey* Cheers! *you could complete the spreadsheet with the parts cost, just for us to have an idea.


No! Because then I would scare myself. I think by the time all is said and done this will be another 4500 CDN dollar bike.

The fork I got during the Jenson closeout say for 2008 Manitous. $349 USD! :eekster:

I think the prices are around:

Fork: 349 (Jenson)
Frame 1999 (Lynskey)
Crankset: 350 (Chainreaction Cycles + Procycling Discount)
Cassette: 200 (http://sales.light-bikes.com/)
Chain: 45 (ebay)
Brakes: 400? (http://www.wiggle.co.uk/)
Handlebar: 30 (ebay)
Seatpost: 30 (ebay)
Skewers: 40 (ebay)
Headset: (forum member)
Saddle: 90 (ebay)
RD: 100 (http://probikekit.com)
FD: 40 (Jenson)
I-link cable: 35 (ebay)
Seatpost clamp: 30 (forum member)
Tires: free (from personal collection)
Stem: 30 (ebay)
Grips: 20 (ebay)
Bottle cages: 90 (http://aspirevelotech.com/)
Wheelset: 1100 (http://www.alchemybicycleworks.com/) <--- budgeting!

that is all I can think off the top of my head... So what ist hat for cost... 5058!?!?!? USD! Yikes...:eekster: Nevermind about the 4500 CDN dollar thing I mentioned earlier.


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

Thomas said:


> If you want Acros try contact Symen at www.jedi-sports.de
> I have bought several Acros items (ceramic headset,seatpost, etc)
> They have VERY good and fast service,and should be able to help you out.


Thanks! The problem with that is I'm from Canada. I don't really know of any shops that really build wheelsets around where I live. Every time I go to a bike store and inquire about custom built wheels I always get walked over to the display stand for Mavic wheels or what not. None of the shops want to build wheels anymore. So with that said I have two wheel builders I like to use in the USA. I don't mind paying shipping to get high quality stuff. But it becomes a bit of a logistics nightmare if I have to personally order the hubs, have them shipped to me then ship it to a wheel builder in the USA and then have the entire wheel shipped back to me.

BTI-USA is the distributor for Acros products in the USA. JB -imports is as well acording to Acros.de. If you ask JB-import they said they aren't doing it anymore. BTI-USA does not have any hubs in stock (not even the standard .54 w/ steel bearings). They do not stock the ceramic version, or the ceramic ultimate version.

Jeremy at Alchemy Bicycle Works has one last set of Tune hubs left. I think I'm going to go for them. I currently use a set of Blue King Kong+Ti freehub laced with sapim CX-ray spokes to Sun EQ21 on my Kona Hei Hei Supreme. They are awesome wheels. I only thought of the Acros to try something new. But it appears to be too difficult to get.



BlownCivic said:


> Is the Manitou MRD R7 the ABS or the TPC?


It is the ABS version. I wanted the TPC version, but Jenson was having a sale... 350 USD for the ABS, not for the TPC. At 50% cheaper I couldn't say no. In reality I wanted the 2009 Magura MD100R-SL. But even if I called in favors to try to get it at distributor's cost it would not be any where close to 350 USD for the Manitou.


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## Jake Pay (Dec 27, 2006)

damn you for postin' up that frame, I keep eye-ballin' their site


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

yeah thats  expensive! 
But thats a good component choice, build it up and post pictures!


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

Jake Pay said:


> damn you for postin' up that frame, I keep eye-ballin' their site


:thumbsup:

too bad I'm not working commission for Lynskey. :madman:



sergio_pt said:


> yeah thats  expensive!
> But thats a good component choice, build it up and post pictures!


I'm of the thought that doing it twice would cost more. Sure I could go and get XT parts, an older used Fox of ebay and such, but then I would not be complete as a person if I knew I could have gone lighter. If you are going to make a light bike, you better make it as light as possible during the initial build. You can't go half way, or else the XT shifter would not do justice to say a XTR rear derailleur, or stupid light wheels. You gotta go light all the way.

With that said I guess I'm a hypocrite, because although all the parts I selected are light, there are still lighter parts. Parts from AX-Lightness, Smolke, THM, but those parts get into the "You are on crack" level of weight weenie-ism. I think I draw the line at Extralite parts, anything beyond them you are way way into the crazy dollar per gram saved ratio.


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## ~ScaryFast~ (Jan 22, 2004)

Cheers! said:


> Thanks! The problem with that is I'm from Canada. I don't really know of any shops that really build wheelsets around where I live. Every time I go to a bike store and inquire about custom built wheels I always get walked over to the display stand for Mavic wheels or what not. None of the shops want to build wheels anymore. .


Are you in the Toronto area? If you go to Ottawa at all, Tall Tree Cycles (my shop team this year) is great for wheelbuilding, as is Phat Moose Cycles. They are both smaller shops owned by people who love working on bikes. Might be cheaper and more convenient than going somewhere in the USA.


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## Limon (Jan 26, 2004)

can you post dropout pics?
thanks


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## f3rg (Aug 29, 2007)

sergio_pt said:


> Get opera (www.opera.com) and then click* fit to width*.


Right, so I open another browser due to one thread on one website?  I'll just stick with my FF3 and be grouchy about needlessly huge photos.


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

Cheers! said:


> that is all I can think off the top of my head... So what ist hat for cost... 5058!?!?!? USD! Yikes...:eekster: Nevermind about the 4500 CDN dollar thing I mentioned earlier.


As long as you're not going into credit card debt to buy it, or letting your kids go hungry, what the heck, there are people that spend that much on one handbag or one watch. And they can't ride either of them. There's not a lot to be gained (literally) by saving money right now, so buy it and enjoy the heck out of it. To paraphrase William Burroughs, you don't want to end up being the richest guy in some cemetery. :thumbsup:


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

Limon said:


> can you post dropout pics?
> thanks


Sorry I forgot.


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## Limon (Jan 26, 2004)

Cheers! said:


> Sorry I forgot.


love the dropouts, a v brake version would be sweet for my spare parts.


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## vickys (Oct 4, 2007)

Nice frame you got there..

Is level 2 frame Double butted as well?

Is the medium 17' frame measure 17 from C to C or C to T?
what's your height.

I'm looking at a medium too but not sure if the 22.25' top tube is enuff for me standing 5'10..? 

Cheers..


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

vickys said:


> Nice frame you got there..
> 
> Is level 2 frame Double butted as well?
> 
> ...


I'm 5'8" 
17" is measured from centre of bottom bracket to top of seat tube. 22.25" is going to be a bit small I would think. Unless you want to run it old school and use a 130mm + stem and a setback seatpost.

As to level 2 tubes? I have no idea really. I didn't really ask for them, I just said I want this bike (Medium M230), I want the cables routed on the top, I want the top tube 22.5" how much? They said 300 bucks extra. I said ok, but you gotta make it as light as possible. They asked how much I weighed and what my riding style was. I said smooth XC race courses. I'm about a Cat 2 MTB skill level (if I don't drink too much beer). and they said ok. Send me a drawing. I had them fix a couple of things I didn't like (placement of cable stops and guides on top tube) and in the notes of the drawing was LEvel 2 tubing.

Schweet. Give them the authorization to build. They charged my credit card. And about 7 weeks later they shipped it.


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## Hand/of/Midas (Sep 19, 2007)

breezer dropouts are way too sexy.


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

Here is the latest series of pictures.










I just received the bottom bracket. So here are some pics. I couldn't resist to go and install it because I was curious if I could get away with a 108mm wide ISIS bottom bracket.

So in support of my UK friends, here are some more UK made parts



















I guess made in UK can only go so far. Because this Token Bottom Bracket is made in Taiwan. Lots of anti-seize was applied. You can never have enough antiseize when we are talking about freshly cut Titanium alloy and raw aluminum alloy trying to thread together.










She barely fits!









I hope there is no flex in the frame/bottom bracket/chain rings.


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## BruceBrown (Jan 16, 2004)

Cheers! said:


> I just received the bottom bracket. So here are some pics. I couldn't resist to go and install it because I was curious if I could get away with a 108mm wide ISIS bottom bracket.
> 
> She barely fits!
> 
> ...


Oy! I guess you'll know soon enough, but certainly keep a very close eye on that ring/chainstay situation with the outer ring. You could always get the new Duo 40T outer ring (it's been on their website for a month or two, but I can't find it to order online just anywhere yet). Maybe through the US Distributor or your Canadian Distributor at Phat Moose. And, in addition to giving you more chainstay clearance, the 40T will cut a few grams over the 42T.:thumbsup:

BB


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

*uuh...*

i would definitely put a slim spacer under the right-side cup of the BB!

This is pretty close on the 42t and if you just have a little flex, or a bolt coming just slightly loose (either chainringbolts or crank fixing bolts or BB cup) your chainring might rub on the chainstays.

You might understand i had this happen already ...so just an advice on my part!


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## BruceBrown (Jan 16, 2004)

nino said:


> i would definitely put a slim spacer under the right-side cup of the BB!
> 
> This is pretty close on the 42t and if you just have a little flex, or a bolt coming just slightly loose (either chainringbolts or crank fixing bolts or BB cup) your chainring might rub on the chainstays.
> 
> You might understand i had this happen already ...so just an advice on my part!


In addition to the clearance issues....

If the industry standard chainline for a double road chainset with the inner ring is at 41mm and the outer at 46mm, what is the "industry standard" chainline for a double mountain crankset? Do we just shoot for a 48mm chainline (I believe that is Middleburn's preferred chainline) that lines up exactly between the two rings? Or do we use the triple range of 47.5 - 50mm and just shoot to be somewhere within that range?

On my Middleburn Duo, I just went with the recommended 113mm spindle length and have perfect shifting on my Dos Niner. But my upcoming 2 x 9 using the Race Face Turbine and or Next cranks with the rings in the granny and middle slots and an adjustable chainline Race Face Ti Taperlock bb (110mm spindle which I hope will work) I guess I should just try and mirror what my Middleburn chainline is and go from there.

BB


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

I put some feeler gauges between the gap to see what it was.

1.55 mm clearance between the big ring and the chainstay.

Here is my idiot post for today.










That is a Dura-Ace FD7800 w/ 34.9mm clamp and a top pull adapter. It doesn't fit. The water bottle cage is right in the way of lowering the derailleur enough for it to shift properly. I'm a moron.

Anyone got a XTR M952 Top swing, Top Pull, NOS front derailleur that they want to sell?


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## amillmtb (Jun 24, 2005)

Cheers! said:


> I put some feeler gauges between the gap to see what it was.
> 
> 1.55 mm clearance between the big ring and the chainstay.
> 
> ...


How much lower does it have to go? If its only a mm or so, you could dremel a slot and get a longer bottle cage screw and a big stack washer. Some Specialized roadies come stock with this.


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

It needs to sit right over the exact centre of the lower water bottle boss. GRRRRR

4 letter words coarse through my brain right now.


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## Limon (Jan 26, 2004)

Cheers! said:


> It needs to sit right over the exact centre of the lower water bottle boss. GRRRRR
> 
> 4 letter words coarse through my brain right now.


simple, drill a hole right on the middle of the clamp and you're set


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

Limon said:


> simple, drill a hole right on the middle of the clamp and you're set


I'm tempted... i'm going to go study this screw up some more. Be right back...


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

ok... after careful studyng I think I can file the bottom of the clamp to make it fit... nothing like taking a file to a brand new 100 dollar part.


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

FoShizzle said:


>


Every singlespeed should have these sliding disc mount holes. Adding some axle adjusting bolts would make this the best singlespeed dropout ever.


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

*easy...*



Cheers! said:


> ok... after careful studyng I think I can file the bottom of the clamp to make it fit... nothing like taking a file to a brand new 100 dollar part.


I had the exact same problem on my Progress Winterbike. Just shave the clamp.

by the way - since i sold that scandium frame i'm using the DA derailleur on a Scott Scale with top-pull. Therefore i have a SPEEN-top-pull adapter installed (7,1g). This way the DA7800 weighs 83g. Still much lighter than the 148g XTR


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## Jake Pay (Dec 27, 2006)

Nice work Nino


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## Hand/of/Midas (Sep 19, 2007)

Lelandjt said:


> Every singlespeed should have these sliding disc mount holes. Adding some axle adjusting bolts would make this the best singlespeed dropout ever.


I like the Black Cat drops alot more, they are in my mind perfect in every way.


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## Hand/of/Midas (Sep 19, 2007)

I bought one of those DA deraileurs for my 6" bike to take some weight off, then i find it only works with lowclamp ones. go figure. throw another part onto my new parts ill never use pile.


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

I'm sad... How did you get your dura-ace derailleur so light. This is my. FD-7800 34.9mm clamp, straight out of the box


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## Limon (Jan 26, 2004)

Cheers! said:


> I'm sad... How did you get your dura-ace derailleur so light. This is my. FD-7800 34.9mm clamp, straight out of the box
> 
> you got the braze on you need the one with a regular clamp


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

or find a lighter clamp... or shave the life out of the clamp... 

Sigh... I actually didn't know there was a difference when I ordered. I guess I didn't keep close enough tabs on JensonUSA when I ordered. It just said Dura Ace 7800 34.9 clamp when I ordered it. BAH!


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

*clamps...*



Cheers! said:


> or find a lighter clamp... or shave the life out of the clamp...
> 
> Sigh... I actually didn't know there was a difference when I ordered. I guess I didn't keep close enough tabs on JensonUSA when I ordered. It just said Dura Ace 7800 34.9 clamp when I ordered it. BAH!


yup - the braze-ons are heavier when mated to a aluminium clamp.

-especially the shimano clamp is ultra-heavy: 27g incl. bolt
-there's lighter clamps that weigh about 16g incl. bolts
-and finally there's those exotic carbon clamps that weigh around 6-7g but in the end they are just a fraction lighter than the derailleur with integrated clamp like the one i showed above. braze-on derailleurs weigh about 71-73g so by adding the clamps you get the final weight...


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## SingingSingleTracker (Sep 7, 2004)

Cheers! said:


> or find a lighter clamp... or shave the life out of the clamp...
> 
> Sigh... I actually didn't know there was a difference when I ordered. I guess I didn't keep close enough tabs on JensonUSA when I ordered. It just said Dura Ace 7800 34.9 clamp when I ordered it. BAH!


Send it back for an exchange and get the one you want.


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

Just because I have no life...I spent my evening doing this.














































I'm going to find somewhere to take off more material. Then sand it smooth with 600 grit, 1000 grit and polish the thing up. Thanks for the tip on shaving the band to fit the frame.

Some aluminum fasteners should help it a bit. I might be able to hit 90g even with this derailleur.


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## amillmtb (Jun 24, 2005)

Cheers! said:


> Just because I have no life...I spent my evening doing this.
> 
> I'm going to find somewhere to take off more material. Then sand it smooth with 600 grit, 1000 grit and polish the thing up. Thanks for the tip on shaving the band to fit the frame.
> 
> Some aluminum fasteners should help it a bit. I might be able to hit 90g even with this derailleur.


That looks awesome...Nice job Cheers! :thumbsup:


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## paneristi (Jun 9, 2004)

nice frame!
cheers, I am thinking of getting a lynskey m230 soon
I read that the difference between the custom 1 & custom 2 is the biaxial tubing.
what is that biaxial tubing? i mean, can you use the picture to explain?
thx


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

To be honest, I have no idea. 
Best to email Lynskey performance and get all the details sorted out.


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## Scalpel15 (Nov 15, 2006)

Whaat did you use to mill out the clamp?


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

Dremel, Drill, files, sandpaper. 

To be honest, you are better off buying the new 2009 Shimano Dura-ace 7900 front derailleur and getting the right size clamp. 

I might go that route later, once I confirm that the speen adapter makes acceptable shifts.


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## JaLove (Dec 24, 2006)

Is this done? We want to see!


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## levir (Jul 12, 2005)

Congrats on the build!

I noticed the rice cooker in the background. I used to have one too!


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## raceer2 (Jul 21, 2007)

speen adapters work supremely well plus jens is awesome to deal with


cheers, said it before, say it again, thats one sweet build man !


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## jw8725 (Jun 12, 2009)

stunning bike


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