# starting a klunker project



## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

Just looking for a few tips on building up a klunker/cruiser ride. I rescued a schwinn cruiser complete bike from the trash the other day, and I want to build it up as a klunker. I'm not sure of the year, but the serial # is Y6806410 and 3376 is stamped on the head tube badge. I looked on all the sites with schwinn serial #'s and couldn't find any that start with a Y, so I am thinking it is early 80's Japanese built, rather than a Chicago built bike.

The rear spacing is like 114 mm, and the front is less than 100mm. So I am not sure if I have too many options for different wheels. Anyone know a good route for replacements?

It has a coaster brake, but I would like to find some bolt on canti mounts if I can, anyone know where to find them?

Also the seatpost is 22.2mm, are there any replacement posts available?

I teach in a machine shop, so I am open to suggestions I can make as well. I am already working on a BB shell adapter to run a cartridge BB and regular mountain cranks, and may even try to make the canti mounts if I can figure it out.

I have pics of the frame and parts, but my computer won't recognize the camera, so I will upload them as soon as I figure it out.

Thanks in advance for your help.

p.s. I have searched for klunker and cruiser on the forums, and that is what really got me started, there are some sweet klunkers out there!


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## thebigred67 (Mar 29, 2005)

Waiting for picts!


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Heres a frame pic*

I got too excited and stripped all the parts before I took any pics! This is the frame as it stands. Seat I added, seatpost is original. Kickstand :eekster: has to go!

frog


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## rallymerkur (May 3, 2007)

There's an old closed down Schwinn shop down the street from my office. I've walked by it several times. It's real dirty inside and out, but there's still old bikes and parts everywhere inside. I've oftened wondered if anything could be done with what's there. I should ask some locals, I moved here 7 years ago and I'm thinking this has been closed down for much longer. I'll bet no one even notices it anymore, the windows are so dirty it's hard to see through.


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## kenjihara (Mar 7, 2006)

I've got a cruiser / 'klunker' frame like that... been wondering what to do with it. I actually wanted to build it as a fixie with drop bars, or at least a single. It's bright purple. I've got some American b.b. / cranks and a 39 T ring for it, also a pair of old road wheels I rescued from a trash pile and trued. 

I'll be looking to see what you make of yours. Good luck!


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## Williwoods (May 3, 2004)

22.2 post can be had easy look for a fluted alloy bmx seatpost use "old school" to search for it on ebay, I saw a guy posted a bunch this week.

for spacing just open it a bit its a steel frame and that is how they used to do it anyway, cold set baby.

for brakes may I suggest drum brakes. Look for some alloy sturmey archer drum brakes from the 80's. very powerfull brakes and lighter than the steel hubs ive seen.


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## drtunit (Sep 3, 2004)

There is a bottom bracket adapter available for BMX bikes that works fine so I wouldn't spend too much time there. I am sure you could make up some brake posts and weld them on, and while you are it, change out the seatpost tube too and cut the old Schwinn sized tube out of the frame. Or just make a new post out of solid aluminum or chromoly tube machined to fit. There are vintage BMX posts available frome time to time on ebay but they can be more than they are worth. As to the frame width, make a cheapo frame spreader...easy.


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## Williwoods (May 3, 2004)

drtunit said:


> There is a bottom bracket adapter available for BMX bikes that works fine so I wouldn't spend too much time there. I am sure you could make up some brake posts and weld them on, and while you are it, change out the seatpost tube too and cut the old Schwinn sized tube out of the frame. Or just make a new post out of solid aluminum or chromoly tube machined to fit. There are vintage BMX posts available frome time to time on ebay but they can be more than they are worth. As to the frame width, make a cheapo frame spreader...easy.


those bmx fluted seatposts are very strong and light and I have no problem running em, have you seen how thick they are? They may as well be solid alloy. I would not pay more than $20 for those posts. I know there were even auctions that had 2 posts and seatclamps for $15 so not that pricey for a vintage part.


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## c_m_shooter (Mar 8, 2007)

You can order cantilever posts from several framebuilder suppliers online. I paid $2 a set for mine plus shipping. I built jigs from flat stock to hold them in place while I brazed them on. I am working on a Klunker build too. I rode it yesterday for the first time, but won't have any pics until I tear it back down to have powdercoated.


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## Joe Steel (Dec 30, 2003)

You're on the right track -
The BB adapter works great for running a 3-piece crank. 
For brakes, there are a few things you can do. You can put a 1" mtb fork up front with canti posts and run V-brakes. Out back, you can try to find the bolt-on canti posts -- they show up on the 'bay on occassion but they're "popular."

There's also an aftermarket gizmo that looks like a brake arch for a suspension fork, except that it is designed to bolt onto the rear seatstays. It includes canti mounts for mounting V-brakes. Haven't tried it so I can't comment on it.

You can also try a nexus rear hub (3, 7, or 8 speed) with a drum brake. (I have a '50's cruiser built up with a 7 speed that is a ton of fun to ride).

That kickstand should come off pretty easy. Use a big pair of channel locks to push the kickstand into frame (the steel tube that attaches the kickstand to the frame has a spring in it. -- push the kickstand in to compress the spring). With your third hand, removed the set pin with a pair of pliers. The kickstand, spring, and a little wedge should comeout easily.

(As shooter suggested above, you could also braze on a set of canti mounts. I picked up a pair of mounts from my LBS for something like a $1.29 ea -- but I haven't used them for anything yet -- maybe my next Klunker :thumbsup

Seatposts -- I believe the "founding fathers" used 13/16" solid 6061 heat treated aluminum bar stock.


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## kenjihara (Mar 7, 2006)

1 cog frog said:


> I got too excited and stripped all the parts before I took any pics! This is the frame as it stands. Seat I added, seatpost is original. Kickstand :eekster: has to go!
> 
> frog


Looks sharp! Lots of potential.


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## drtunit (Sep 3, 2004)

Yeah, the fluted post would be the easiest to find. There was also a steel layback but they are rare, "popular" and pricey. There are quite a few Wald replacement steel posts but they are not very strong. The pioneers used to weld a tube inside the Wald and stock Schwinn posts to add strength. 
The horshoe brake adapter I saw required a center bolt for a mount then had hose clamps to anchor each leg with the brake post...not high tech but I guess it worked.


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Thanks for all the input...*

I am already working on making the BB adapter and seatpost, (gotta love being a machine shop teacher!)

The bolt on canti posts are intriguing, I may have to make some of those up as well.

Even though much of this can be bought, I love being able to make it myself.

My only major concern is the rear spacing. It measures 114mm, how much can you spread by cold setting? It would have to be at least 6mm to get to 120mm, and as much as 20mm to get to 135mm spacing. Not sure if that is possible/advisable, anyone?

I have 1" threaded fork to put up front, so that solves the front brake problem, but I will look at the Sturmey Archer drum brake hubs as well and see if that might work.

Thanks again, pics of the progress will be forthcoming.

frog


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## Ratman (May 13, 2005)

1 cog frog said:


> I am already working on making the BB adapter and seatpost, (gotta love being a machine shop teacher!)
> 
> The bolt on canti posts are intriguing, I may have to make some of those up as well.
> 
> ...


Nice project you got going there. I have a clunker project of my own going that began its life as a 1999 Raleigh Retroglide 6. Look up posts by users Hollywood and 1 FG Rider. Both of those guys (and I'm sure there are others) have built up some very nice bikes.

Do a search on E-Bay for the BB Adaptor. Even though it would be cool to build your own, FMF offers a fairly lightweight and easy to install conversion cup set for about $25 shipped. Also Sheldon Brown's site has a good article making a homemade canti jig. The canti mount brace thingie others have mentioned can be had at Jenson Bikes for about $37 but again like you said building your own parts would be pretty cool!! As for cold-setting the rear dropouts I think you could probably get away with it. I know guys who have stuffed a 135mm hub in a 110mm Monocog frame and are still riding that way. I would think that as long as the frame is aligned and the dropouts are not binding the hub then you should be good.

Here's a bad picture of my klunker project in progress:


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## Joe Steel (Dec 30, 2003)

*One more thing --*

On spreading the rearend (c'mon stick with the topic)

Here's how it was taught to me. I've done it on older frames without problem.

Get a good length of 2"x4" -- about 4+ feet long (for some leverage).
From the back of the frame, stick the 2x4 through the rear dropouts, horizontal to the ground, and past the the seat tube.
Using the 2x4 against the seat tube for leverage, push the rear dropouts outward (alternate pressure against the left, with pressure against the right).
Check your progress with a wheel of the desired width.
It takes a fair amount of pressure to get the desired width.

Cheers~
Joe


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## Repack Rider (Oct 22, 2005)

BITD we tied a string to the rear dropouts and ran it around the head tube. By checking that the seat tube is centered between the strings you can keep the frame straight when you spread the rear.


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## Welsh Dave (Jul 26, 2005)

Ratman said:


> ...Here's a bad picture of my klunker project in progress:


Nice Humus you've got there, Ratman - They're great bikes.
Is the one at the back a disc-brake "Deluxe" version?


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## Ratman (May 13, 2005)

Welsh Dave said:


> Nice Humus you've got there, Ratman - They're great bikes.
> Is the one at the back a disc-brake "Deluxe" version?


Thanks!! You've got a good eye. That is in fact a Humu Deluxe frame in the background. I no longer own it. It sat for 2 years waiting for me to build it before I finally sold it a few weeks ago to a guy who wanted to run it with a Rohloff hub out back. The old school Humu is my primary ride at this point. I recently got a little taste of a 29er so I've sold off everything 26" but the Humu, the klunker project, and my 1st MTB bike which is a '96 Gary Fisher Paragon. I'm planning to buy a 29er once I figure out what I want and what bikes my modest budget will allow. Here's a picture of the Kona. It's undergone a few changes (handlebar, cranks, pedals) since I took this pic:


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## ScottyMTB (Oct 26, 2005)

Old thread, but I am going to spread the rear of my clunker frame this week. Thanks for the tips, even if they are over a year old.


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## thebigred67 (Mar 29, 2005)

I am making a coaster brake clunker soon.


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## ScottyMTB (Oct 26, 2005)

You shouldn't have to spread the drop outs.


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Update and pics*

since this thread has been brought back, I might as well update the pics of my "cruiser".

Modifications so far:
Machined the bottom bracket adapter, seatpost, seatpost clamp.
LBS reamed the headtube to fit a 1 1/8" fork.

Specs:
Schwinn cruiser frame (80's I think)
Surly 1x1 fork (disc and canti mounts!)
Avid bb7 front disk brake and SD 5 lever(not in this pic)
Rhyno lite xl rim with Ringle disc hub (front)
original steel rim and coaster brake hub 19t cog (rear)
Aheadset 1 1/8 threadless headset
Salsa 60mmx10 deg Cromoto stem
steel riser bar (80's?)
Brooks B-17 saddle
UN-54 bottom bracket
Truvativ 5D cranks (late 90's)
Ritchey 42t chainring
Kenda K-Rad 26X2.3 tires
Nashbar flat pedals (suntour beartrap imitations)

I have a set of drum brake hubs and Rhyno lite rims, but I have not gotten around to building the wheels yet.

Since the frame is not a "true" klunker, this build is really a mix of lots of different parts and years, but it is a fun ride, and I have enjoyed the project immensely!

frog


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## thebigred67 (Mar 29, 2005)

*My clunker to be.*

Plenty of work to be done.


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## Dr S (Dec 7, 2007)

Hi
Heres my similar project based on a mid 30's Excelsior. Canti mounts have been brazed on and I changed the seat and chainstay bridges whilst i was at it. Bottom Bracket uses a DMR Wondercup convertor and I also made cups to run a regular 1" headset.










Cheers
Si


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Very nicely done!*

Dr. S, that is a gorgeous bike! :thumbsup: I can't wait to see it all built up. I would love to hear more of the details on the mods you did. Beautiful!

frog


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

1 cog frog said:


> Dr. S, that is a gorgeous bike! :thumbsup:


+1 !

Great inspiration for my newly acquired Fleet!


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## Dr S (Dec 7, 2007)

Its been a bit of a labor of love really. There are probably just a handful of Klunkers in the UK and very little knowledge. Hairstream has helped sending out parts and CK has helped out here and there. Apart from the mods above I have turned down a seatpost from 6061 and spaced out the rear end and fork. Wheels are 2.125 Weinmann/Mailard which is a little different from the usual Araya- Ukai choice. Cranks are TA Cyclotourist, mechs are Suntour GT with Mighty shifters. Headset is Tange Levin with cups machined out of old Mandrels i had laying about, saddle is Brookes B72 and tyres will be cheep repro Uniroyal Nobby. Brakes are dia compe or Mafac (cannot decide which to use) and the bars are 26" BMX cruisers with a Ashtabula stem. Paint is custom mixed Violet with red candy and the white is BMC Old English white with Alfa Rosso Corsa handpainted pin stripes.
Its been tough tracking down parts from this side of the pond but its almost there and I'm looking forward to riding it. 
They are beautiful bikes and really soulful, just hope it rides as well as it looks.

Thanks for you kind coments guys and I will keep you posted on how it turns out.

Si


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## scooterendo (Jan 30, 2004)

Dr. S,
Now that's a really nice Klunker frame. Looks like a 1936 (mine's a '35, very similar, but with straight seat stays). If you guys haven't check it out, go to Alan Bonds site www.clunkers.net. He's the man and offers advise on building them up. He lived with Gary and CK back in the day and built a ton of them. He built my '35. NIce to see everybody building these bikes. Best of luck with all the builds. I met a fella named Scott at the Sea Otter last weekend. He wins Expert Downhill Single Speed class on a Pre-War Schwinn...and he's 54 years old. An inspiration to us all. Maybe there's a new race class coming, based on the old stuff? 
Ride on!



Dr S said:


> Hi
> Heres my similar project based on a mid 30's Excelsior. Canti mounts have been brazed on and I changed the seat and chainstay bridges whilst i was at it. Bottom Bracket uses a DMR Wondercup convertor and I also made cups to run a regular 1" headset.
> 
> 
> ...


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Klunker DH*

I believe Scott you met at Sea Otter is Scooderdude on the boards.

Below is a link to a thread with some pics of his bike and him racing:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=383412

Keep the pics coming ya'll, I love these bikes!

frog


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

J_Westy said:


> +1 !
> 
> Great inspiration for my newly acquired Fleet!


Here's mine. Not sure what it is. Seat collar looks similar to yours but different than Dr. S's.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Fillet-brazed said:


> Here's mine. Not sure what it is. Seat collar looks similar to yours but different than Dr. S's.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That bike looks great.


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

CS2 said:


> That bike looks great.


Thanks, but I'm not sure I agree.  It needs a little work still and after seeing some of these others maybe it needs some paint.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

Fillet-brazed said:


> Thanks, but I'm not sure I agree.  It needs a little work still and after seeing some of these others maybe it needs some paint.


Well I like it a lot too because of the _patina_. Just like someone might have put one together back in the day.


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

J_Westy said:


> Well I like it a lot too because of the _patina_. Just like someone might have put one together back in the day.


+ 1


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## hairstream (Apr 20, 2008)

more better, closer snaps Si?


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## Dr S (Dec 7, 2007)

hairstream said:


> more better, closer snaps Si?


Will do luke, going to throw a few more parts on over the next few days.

Desperately need an Excelsior headbadge to finish off now. Its been a long time since Fleabay had one up. :madman:

Cheers
Si


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## Repack Rider (Oct 22, 2005)

That is so freaking authentic... A stunning example of a 70's Marin bike. Great front end, absolutely what you wanted thirty years ago.

Can't tell if you cheated and used alloy rims. Original would have been 26 x 1.75 single wall, not 2.125 S-2.

Patina is cool. With the exception of Alan Bonds, who has painting equipment and artistic skills, no one painted an original klunker. Leave it like that if you want the authentic look. That bike is Repack ready and state of the art @ 1976.

Now take a couple of runs and see how those brakes hold up.


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

Repack Rider said:


> That is so freaking authentic... A stunning example of a 70's Marin bike. Great front end, absolutely what you wanted thirty years ago.
> 
> Can't tell if you cheated and used alloy rims. Original would have been 26 x 1.75 single wall, not 2.125 S-2.
> 
> ...


Wow, thanks CK. Good to hear that comin' from a guy that sorta knows his stuff. 

Yeah, the rims are Araya 7X. Those came out when? 79? I had to drill the spoke holes out slightly to allow for the beefy spokes. It needs a bit more work. I want to find some metal cable guide clamps and get rid of the zip ties for the housing. Really looking forward to doing some rides on it. Maybe I'll have to take it on Mt Tam for its inaugural ride.


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## scooderdude (Sep 27, 2004)

Repack Rider said:


> Now take a couple of runs and see how those brakes hold up.


And the fork.


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## ericb49 (Aug 11, 2006)

Fillet-brazed said:


> Maybe I'll have to take it on Mt Tam for its inaugural ride.


WHEN you do that...you best email me first so we can buddy ride


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## Fillet-brazed (Jan 13, 2004)

scooderdude said:


> And the fork.


Fork is no good? CK said it was "the front end you wanted", but maybe he meant something else.


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## scooderdude (Sep 27, 2004)

Fillet-brazed said:


> Fork is no good? CK said it was "the front end you wanted", but maybe he meant something else.


The prewar style forks are actually hollow, unlike the solid forged legs of later vintages (or other brands). They look cool but are not very strong, and prone to catastrophic failure according to AB and others, and that was 30+ years ago. You could swap in a vintage forged fork or a tubular BMX style that came on the scene in the late 70s and be hella safer.

Otherwise, considering those forks now going on 60+ years old, I wouldn't be racing at Toro on them. Cafe duty and trail riding is probably safe.


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## scooderdude (Sep 27, 2004)

Dr S said:


> Hi
> Heres my similar project based on a mid 30's Excelsior. Canti mounts have been brazed on and I changed the seat and chainstay bridges whilst i was at it. Bottom Bracket uses a DMR Wondercup convertor and I also made cups to run a regular 1" headset.
> 
> 
> ...


I like the potential of this one. That creme/purple paint is freakin nice.


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## Repack Rider (Oct 22, 2005)

Fillet-brazed said:


> Fork is no good? CK said it was "the front end you wanted", but maybe he meant something else.


I was impressed by the fork braces and didn't notice that the forks were hollow blades. My bad. Definitely from a cheaper bike.

The fork you want is a flat blade, which is wimpy side to side but pretty stout straight ahead, with fork braces of course.

When I first wrote about riding these bikes, I used the analogy that it was like bolting your handlebars onto a paint shaker, and then holding on as tight as you could (because the brakes required so much pressure) until your eyeballs vibrated and your arms went numb.

Enjoy.


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## scooderdude (Sep 27, 2004)

Repack Rider said:


> When I first wrote about riding these bikes, I used the analogy that it was like bolting your handlebars onto a paint shaker, and then holding on as tight as you could (because the brakes required so much pressure) until your eyeballs vibrated and your arms went numb.


That's an apt description of my recent experiences while racing my klunker the last few months. You definately have to coordinate between ham-fisting the grips, and braking, cuz ya can't do both very well simultaneously! It can be a real handful, no pun intended. In fact, before I learned that aspect of riding these bikes, I had one or the other hand pulled off the bars a few times while at speed through the high speed chop while trying to brake. Talk about a pucker moment Yowsa!.

This is why I'm kinda digging the sh!t out of it. :thumbsup:

Next race is this coming Sunday at Toro park.


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## Technogator (Aug 22, 2011)

*Gary Fisher Klunker*

I am thinking about a retrofit of my 1996 Gary Fisher Klunker and came across these helpful threads. Thinking about changing out the STX crankset and going White Industries with Single Speed and integrated bashguard.

Without a teardown, I am wondering what the spindle length of the bottom bracket is. If anyone knows the answer, I would much appreciate it!


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Technogator said:


> I am thinking about a retrofit of my 1996 Gary Fisher Klunker and came across these helpful threads. Thinking about changing out the STX crankset and going White Industries with Single Speed and integrated bashguard.
> 
> Without a teardown, I am wondering what the spindle length of the bottom bracket is. If anyone knows the answer, I would much appreciate it!


WOW, 2 years is a little late to the party. I thought I was bad, and I am. Sheldon Brown has a good article on measuring it. Check out his SS/Fixed page. Good luck


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