# Stumpjumper Comp Alloy for 300 lbs



## jwlane83 (Apr 28, 2020)

Hello!

I've been working my ass off and I'm down to around 290 from 360 lbs, so I'm looking for a new mountain bike after being off one for a few years.

I was considering something like the Fuse Comp or Kona Honzo, but everyone is really sold out of sub $2k bikes right now, plus there's a backorder... I was at my LBS and found that Stumpjumper Comp Alloy and the guy offered to set it up to see if we could achieve the recommended sag before sealing the deal.

It's more than I had intended to spend initially, but I'd rather get something solid than to have to continuously upgrade/repair.

Any of you guys around my weight happy with the Stumpjumper Comp?

Thanks!


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

Dealer should know if those bikes have weight limits. I know Giant says you're good at 300 lbs.


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## brawlo (Mar 13, 2012)

Probably comes down to whether the rear shock can handle you. The leverage ratio is up at the higher end of what most tend to point towards with rear shocks and big dudes.


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## jwlane83 (Apr 28, 2020)

No one seems to want to commit to an answer. A few companies said that they warranty the bikes up to 300 lbs. I understand that in addition to that, there is likely a margin of error built in to the chassis, so I'm not worried as much about the chassis as I am about the shocks. Most have been hesitant to say what the settings are at this weight.

A few of the better local shops seem to be willing to attempt to setup the suspension and see if we can achieve the proper sag before committing to the purchase. While I appreciate their dedication to the craft, I'd like first hand information from those that are riding them. 

One shop is recommending a Kona dual suspension and swears by it, but it's a solid $1,000.00 above my budget. I'm willing to spend more to get something I know I won't need to upgrade anytime soon.


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## Knight511 (Nov 26, 2010)

You need to find a shop that will support you regardless of what the warranty says. Nobody is going to make you stand on a scale if you file a warranty claim on a bike.

Before buying my Hightower, I tried a SJ ST while at 280. It was HORRIBLE and was like riding a pogo stick on the trail. Specialized had made changes from the Camber to the Stumpy ST that made the bike unridable for me. I had a 2013 Camber Comp for 5 years and rode the piss out of it from 320 down to 280. The bike never let me down and was amazing despite my fat ass. The Stumpjumper back then was TERRIBLE for me. I went to a test ride day at a local trail to check out the all new Stumpjumper ST to replace my Camber, but the bike sucked. The rear shock bottomed out on almost every bump and it really rode poorly.

I cannot speak for the newest Hightower, but if you can get you hands on a Hightower V1, it is an amazing bike for folks our size. As much as I liked my Camber, the Hightower blows it away in every respect.  Maybe the newest Tallboy would be analogous to the old Hightower?


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## Knight511 (Nov 26, 2010)

Also, if a shop won't try to get the bike set up for you, walk away from that shop. They won't help you in the future if they don't help you now when you are looking to drop $3K or so on a new bike.


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## Whoduh (May 20, 2018)

rear shock on the comp stumpy maxes out at 350psi.
I'm around 240lbs riding weight. My shock psi is right around 320-325psi.
If you are pushing 300lbs, you're gonna max out that shock...and then some

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/s...rue&frontFork=910-18-944&rearShock=972-63-192


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## lwg (Mar 23, 2008)

I’m about 300lbs on a 2018 SJ Comp Carbon, I’m thinking I’m going to replace the rear air can with an MRP Hazzard with coil springs to fire the rear shock issue. I suspect the reality is rear air shocks just aren’t designed around us big boys as we’re probaly less than 5% of the market.


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## Knight511 (Nov 26, 2010)

lwg said:


> I'm about 300lbs on a 2018 SJ Comp Carbon, I'm thinking I'm going to replace the rear air can with an MRP Hazzard with coil springs to fire the rear shock issue. I suspect the reality is rear air shocks just aren't designed around us big boys as we're probaly less than 5% of the market.


You may be disappointed with the results. Coil springs come in very limited spring rates designed around average riders. You may not be able to find a spring that holds your weight. Have a custom spring wound? You will then overwork the dampening system of the shock.

When I bought my Camber back in December of 2012, I was 320 and test rode both the Camber and the Stumpy. The Camber was amazing, the Stumpy SUCKED BADLY. Same company... same rear air springs... different linkages and leverage ratios. The Stumpy was an uncontrolled pogo stick that bottomed out on the simplest drop. The Camber is the bike that made me ditch hardtails and fully embrace FS because it handled like a dream. I am now back above 300 without my riding gear and have to run my Hightower at about 325psi with zero issues due to my weight. There are far too many factors to blame air air spring as the problem. The reality may be that an air spring works better for superclydes when it is used on a frame design that has a different leverage ratio and progression curve.


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## lwg (Mar 23, 2008)

For MRP, they have some pretty hefty springs that are available. As a bonus they are local to me here in Grand Junction. In talking with them they have assured me they have springs available for us big boys. Either way I’m planning on improving things this year as I am growing very tired of the stock can on this bike.


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## Fuzz541 (Jul 27, 2006)

I'm 240 and snooping around for others' experience with their current Stump setups, as I likely have one in my future. One thing I came across is the Cascade Components link which ramps up the progression ratio, and adds 5mm travel to the rear of all current Stumpjumper models, ST, LT and EVO. $235. Guys on the Spesh forum like it a lot.

Stumpjumper LT Link 2018-Current

Also I've been halfass intermittent fasting and low carb-ish, which got me from 255 to 240 in about 6 months. I'm going to ramp it up and try to lose a lot more this summer. It'll be nice to ride uphill at 200 without carrying an old DH bike on my back. Cheaper than carbon parts!


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## Whoduh (May 20, 2018)

If I ate better, I could probably get below 230. That seems to be where I stop with dropping weight...


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## lwg (Mar 23, 2008)

Fuzz541 said:


> I'm 240 and snooping around for others' experience with their current Stump setups, as I likely have one in my future. One thing I came across is the Cascade Components link which ramps up the progression ratio, and adds 5mm travel to the rear of all current Stumpjumper models, ST, LT and EVO. $235. Guys on the Spesh forum like it a lot.
> 
> Stumpjumper LT Link 2018-Current
> 
> Also I've been halfass intermittent fasting and low carb-ish, which got me from 255 to 240 in about 6 months. I'm going to ramp it up and try to lose a lot more this summer. It'll be nice to ride uphill at 200 without carrying an old DH bike on my back. Cheaper than carbon parts!


I've come across that new link as well, wondering if it is a favorable upgrade for us Clydes though?

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## jwlane83 (Apr 28, 2020)

The bike shop tried to achieve proper sag and we didn't have any luck. They recommended a hardtail and I ended up with a Norco. Ill keep riding and when I get to a better weight, ill consider dual suspension


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

i think the stumpy comp has 150mm travel. but the same shock stroke as the short travel model. that would put more leverage on the shock. 

in fact. spec puts a heavier damping tune on the 150 bike because of this higher leverage.

i have a 135mm rear travel stumpy. we swapped the heavy tune from the 150 model onto my bike and it feels pretty good. i am able to achieve the sag that i want as well.

2018 6fattie model. 

point is that us clydes usually end up messing with our bikes to compensate for our weight.

if you got a norco fluid ht then thats a good bike. enjoy


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## lwg (Mar 23, 2008)

Fuse6F said:


> i think the stumpy comp has 150mm travel. but the same shock stroke as the short travel model. that would put more leverage on the shock.
> 
> in fact. spec puts a heavier damping tune on the 150 bike because of this higher leverage.
> 
> ...


Interesting. Do you have many rides on this setup? I have the 2018 6fattie as well, but's it's the expert carbon model.

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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

after acquiring it in nov 18, it was my 50 gift to myself, i upgraded the fork and shock as the stock monarch rt stuck down the first ride and i wanted a better fork than the 32mm reba. why an xxl stumpy ships with a 32mm fork!

the rt3 heavy tune was the replacement from the rt (thank the lbs for helping out a lot on this) the rt3 doesnt have the ability to take as much of the smack out of a rooty trail. as in a bit more chatter than my higher end shock. i am satisfied with it as a suitable shock for a clyde.

i did more than 1000km on the aftermarket setup and about 300km or so this year on the rt3

my fork has a charger 2.0 rc2 damper, which people say is a bit over damped, and well, i like it just fine. in fact i run it open and open. 135 psi. 1 token, 8 clicks rebound, i agree the low speed compression doesnt do much. the new 2.1 rc2 is under damped for a clyde but it has working low speed compression. so ive heard. the moco i had originally in the yari was pretty much unrideable. the debonair is nice and holds you up quite well.

i also bought a bleed kit this spring and changed the charger damper fluid a week ago. it was simple to do and made a positive change back to a firmer damping feel as felt when new. 

being a clyde, i pretty much just run around fixing things continually, new chain every two months, figured out the brake bleed on the guide R and they are really nice now. sintered pads are best. they are good for a clyde up to about 85% effort then you wish you had more power for those holy s$#$ moments.

the 3.0” tires work much better on i45 rims vs the i38 roval. its a huge diff. but the roval are so much better strength than the scrapers. didnt even need a spoke retune from new. i wish there was a butcher 3.0” as im over driving the purgatory now. only at about 35-40km and hour and under a heavy g out while throwing down more power do i feel the tire size lets the bike down. in fact the frame does too in that situation with 255lbs on its back. the 3.0” tires are awesome the rest of the time. 20 and 18 psi and as low as 18 16 r/f. i bet the wtb dissector in a 3.0” at around 1450gm would be sufficient strength for the really fast crowd.

the ircc dropper is very good. tore it down recently and greased it, pops up like a rocket now.

took some frame measurements and found my frame is about 660 top tube and 440 reach. probably why i run a 70mm stem and wish i had another 40mm. the actual sta at my 40” seat height is 72 degrees. seat is level with top of the grips (uncut steerer and 38mm riser bars). top of bars are 45” to the floor. yet still i wish the bike was bigger. especially more chain stay. feels to rear weighted in corners

i could easily ride a bike that was 720 tt, 700 stack, 500 reach, 465 cs, 66 hta, 72 degree actual sta at 40”and better yet 32 x 3.0” super boost, 150/140 and a long stroke shock with a huge air piston for the pressure. would be great if you could set useable high and low speed compression on it rather than having to send it for a tune. might as well have a carbon wrapped aluminum frame. then eveyone would be happy as it would be strong as f. fox has the new 38 so we are good up front. 

well maybe it will be at a spec dealer soon. or not!


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

jwlane83 said:


> The bike shop tried to achieve proper sag and we didn't have any luck. They recommended a hardtail and I ended up with a Norco. Ill keep riding and when I get to a better weight, ill consider dual suspension


Nothing wrong with a hardtail , I was on one for quite some time ! 
Lots of fun !


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## yzedf (Apr 22, 2014)

jwlane83 said:


> The bike shop tried to achieve proper sag and we didn't have any luck. They recommended a hardtail and I ended up with a Norco. Ill keep riding and when I get to a better weight, ill consider dual suspension


Sounds like a great choice! Take it back in after a couple rides and make sure everything is ok. Wheels and cranks are possibly going to be problematic.


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