# Can't Get My Pedals Off!!



## zjenni01 (Mar 8, 2010)

I just got a pair of Azonic 420's in the mail that I'm pretty excited about, but I can't get the clipless pedals that my bike came with off. The allen wrench wasn't working, so I bought a pedal wrench yesterday to get ready. I've turned that thing as hard as I can, no results. Any suggestions on how to make it easier? Any reason why they might just be stuck? Do people use loctite when putting pedals on?


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## UEDan (Apr 11, 2010)

Is this the left pedal?
If so, then its a left handed thread. Lefty tightie, Rightie Loosey =)
REMEMBER THIS, when installing the new pedals. Don't want to cross thread.
But if it does have Loctite just heat it up to break the bonds.
Good luck!


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## zjenni01 (Mar 8, 2010)

I've read which way the threads are. Turn to the front to tighten, turn to the back of the bike to loosen, right?

Should they be on so tight that they don't budge at all? I mean..... AT ALL! I've put all my weight in to it....


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## Nadric (Apr 12, 2011)

I had the same trouble with replacing my pedals yesterday. What worked for me was standing on the pedal in the bottom position and then trying to loosen it. Your mileage may vary


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## MR. 313 (Apr 2, 2011)

Left hand threads = Clockwise to loosen, CCW to tighten. As said earlier, thread locker may have been applied, try a touch of heat, or a shot of PB blaster. But also note, thoroughly clean the PB or any other solvent off before installing the new pedal if you do spray anything on them.


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## UEDan (Apr 11, 2010)

Don't take this as a insult to your intelligence. I just wanna cover all the bases.
But, is your bike upside down? Try not to remember it as towards the front or towards the back. You'll be reversed when the bike is flipped
Left handed: Lefty tightie, Rightie Loosey
Right handed : Left loosie, Righty Tighty


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

zjenni01 said:


> I've read which way the threads are. Turn to the front to tighten, turn to the back of the bike to loosen, right?
> 
> Should they be on so tight that they don't budge at all? I mean..... AT ALL! I've put all my weight in to it....


No, they shouldn't be on that tight - but you never know with some people - I only give a a half-turn after finger tight w/ pedals...

Anyways, A good impact or two on the end of your wrench with a dead-blow (or similar) is usually all that's needed - remember the correct direction to not bind it even further. Some penetrating lube like PB may help for galling.

I work on neighborhood kids' bikes (read $shitty walgoose left outside in the rain) and I have never had a pedal not come out - after some 'persuasion'


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

pedal wrench.
cheater bar.
have a friend hold the bike steady while you put your full body weight on the bar.


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## Crosstown Stew (Aug 16, 2008)

+1 on conveniencing it with a rubber hammer or a cheater bar if you have one. On a side note, use some park grease on the threads and throw a washer on the inside of the new pedals to prevent them from ceasing up.

Edit: if you run out of all options, you can pull the crank arms off and put them in a vice, then use the wrench and torque the crap out of them maybe with a better angle and leverage.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Also remember that when you are using an allen wrench from the inside of the pedal, you are turning opposite of what you normally would. This gets really interesting when you consider that that the left pedal has left hand threads. Clear as mud, right?

Use the pedal wrench, it will be a better fit to really honk on. You might also drizzle a little penetration oil onto the 'area' and let it soak in for a while.

Look at your new pedals. They will be stamped "R" or "L". Then you can see which threads go which for which pedal and you should be able to figure out which way to turn the wrench.


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## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

I *never* use Loctite on pedals -- not needed. I use grease. Quick change is easy and I've never had one back out.


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## the.rebot (Jun 8, 2010)

I agree on greasing the threads - the pressure of use will lock them on there pretty tight. Sparks shot off the spindle when removing my pedals at the end of last season. Seriously.


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## zjenni01 (Mar 8, 2010)

Well, I've got nothing. All I had at the house was WD-40, so I let some soak last night and tried it again. I tried pouring boiling water over the crank too. As of now, the cranks I have are pretty cheap, so I don't want to torque on them too much. (one of many upgrades to come) 

I exhausted myself last night, got frustrated, started in on a six pack. I think I'm just going to head to the LBS this morning so I won't be delayed on the trail anymore. 

Thanks for all the input! In a normal situation, it would have gotten them off. I've tried everything tho, they aren't moving for me.


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## the.rebot (Jun 8, 2010)

zjenni01 said:


> Well, I've got nothing. All I had at the house was WD-40, so I let some soak last night and tried it again. I tried pouring boiling water over the crank too. As of now, the cranks I have are pretty cheap, so I don't want to torque on them too much. (one of many upgrades to come)
> 
> I exhausted myself last night, got frustrated, started in on a six pack. I think I'm just going to head to the LBS this morning so I won't be delayed on the trail anymore.
> 
> Thanks for all the input! In a normal situation, it would have gotten them off. I've tried everything tho, they aren't moving for me.


WD-40 should have penetrated well, but it may not lube up the threads, it is really designed tor water dispersal. Do you have any Tri-Flow? It will penetrate and lube (that's what she said) but the LBS is always a viable solution.


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## naiku (Apr 17, 2009)

I feel your pain!! When I took the stock pedals off my bike I could not get them off either, soaked them in PB blaster, tried everything. In the end I got a large pipe and used it as a breaker bar. 

Note of advice, put your chain on the largest chain ring. If you slip, and fall over the bike while attempting to get pedals off, the chain ring will leave a painful and nasty looking cut across your stomach otherwise.


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## blablablacksheep (Mar 22, 2011)

again, are you sure you turning the correct way?

When i tried to take my old pedals off you got to remember this.

When you undo, it the opposite of the opposite, so it isnt righty tighty, lefty loosey its opposite of that.

My point is, with clipless you trying to undo from behind the pedal unlike normal pedals which are in front/of crank.

i suggest you check online for clipless pedals, as many people myself included forgot that clipless is opposite of the opposite...

also wear gloves when you undo, or your hand will get bashed by the crankset when it comes off and bleed all over the place.


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## zjenni01 (Mar 8, 2010)

*Update!!!!*

Okay, I know I was turning them the right way because: 1) There were arrows telling me which way was tighten, so I went the other way 2) I took the pedals off my old bike to make sure I was doing it right, they came right off 3) I watched the guy at the LBS do it and it was just like what I was doing.

So, it ended up taking both guys at the LBS, a bigger pedal wrench, and a can of something, I don't know what.

In the end, the pedals are off, my pedal wrench is missing chunks of metal, and the guy that put these pedals on before I owned the bike deserves a swift kick to the ass.

Thanks for all the advice! I'm sure in future situations, it will help me remove the pedals, but for this one, they were just plain stuck and I didn't have the right can of something to loosen them.


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## zjenni01 (Mar 8, 2010)

One last thing: Will Vaseline work to put on the new pedals to keep rust from forming, or should I try to find some real grease?


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## trboxman (Jul 7, 2010)

real grease


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

I just took a 15mm wrench, placed it in the pedal and hit the wrench downward with a mallet...presto change-o.

and get yourself some real grease! i use regular auto grease because i have it and it works fine, or marine grease even better.


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## FrankinMich (Dec 17, 2005)

zjenni01 said:


> One last thing: Will Vaseline work to put on the new pedals to keep rust from forming, or should I try to find some real grease?


As TRBoxman noted, use real grease -- preferabley something that is thick and waterproof, like Phil Wood's. Better yet, use antiseize compound -- it is sold in most auto parts stores. Make sure to get the type that is meant for aluminum.

Whether you use grease or antiseize, it is a good idea to remove and reinstall your pedals once a year. I do that to mine over the winter, and add a dab more grease or antiseize each time. Since I started doing that, I have never had problems removing my pedals. I also do this to my bottom bracket cups, with similar results.


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## manabiker (Jul 18, 2010)

Anit-seize from any auto parts store.. thats as good as it gets..


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## zjenni01 (Mar 8, 2010)

Thanks, I just about convinced myself Vaseline was fine. I already put it on so I could ride this afternoon, so I'll just let it be until I can get to an auto parts store. I'm definitely keeping it fresh tho, those last pedals were a head ache.


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## blablablacksheep (Mar 22, 2011)

zjenni01 said:


> Thanks, I just about convinced myself Vaseline was fine. I already put it on so I could ride this afternoon, so I'll just let it be until I can get to an auto parts store. I'm definitely keeping it fresh tho, those last pedals were a head ache.


NOOOO not vaseline lol

I advice some of this stuff, i use it on pedals and seatpost and it works very well 
Park Tool Anti-Seize Compound
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17701

Grease is ok but it can still sieze up where this stuff doesnt, personally grease is for bearings not really for threads, but others probally disagree


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