# Easy2led.com DIY light bodies.



## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

The initial design goal was to make a small housing for Quazzle (lux-rc.com) light engines from a solid block of aluminium. The product evolved into a universal housing which can be used with Quazzle modules or any other LED/optic combo which doesn't exceed 24mm in diameter and 19mm in height (driver compartment - 7.5mm height, e.g. MaxFlex).

Here is the final result:








https://www.easy2led.com/

The kit includes:
Lamp body
Rear cap - 2mm thick aluminium
Front tempered optical glass with water repellent coating
M4x10 titanium bolt

The kit weights 45 grams
Length - 42mm
Outside diameter - 35mm

This topic is open for discussion and suggestions.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

ooh, looks very nice!

I'm guessing that any holes other than the M4 mount hole need to be drilled by the buyer? How does the rear cap attach to the main body? How do you get the front glass out/ how's it kept in? What are the dimensions of the rear cap, to work out how much space there is for switch and/ or cable gland?

what sort of ball park price are you thinking about, should you sell them?


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

*mattthemuppet*
I'm guessing that any holes other than the M4 mount hole need to be drilled by the buyer? 
* there is a 5mm hole for the cable between the "LED" and "driver" compartments, other holes must be made by the buyer

How does the rear cap attach to the main body? 
How do you get the front glass out/ how's it kept in? 
* the rear cap and the ring with the glass inside are screwed in the body. M25 threads, so the rear cap and the ring are swappable

What are the dimensions of the rear cap, to work out how much space there is for switch and/ or cable gland?
minimum height - 11.5mm, diameter - 22mm

what sort of ball park price are you thinking about, should you sell them?
$25 + shipping


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

zemike said:


> *mattthemuppet*
> 
> What are the dimensions of the rear cap, to work out how much space there is for switch and/ or cable gland?
> minimum height - 11.5mm, diameter - 22mm


Very nice. With the Quazzle module there should be plenty of room as you don't need to squeeze in the separate driver board.

The driver chamber of 11.5mm sounds like it will be a bit tight between the wiring from the switch and cable gland if using a *flex driver though. Maybe you could sell a different longer end cap with an extension that still fits the threads, if folks are into it?


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

zemike said:


> *mattthemuppet*
> I'm guessing that any holes other than the M4 mount hole need to be drilled by the buyer?
> * there is a 5mm hole for the cable between the "LED" and "driver" compartments, other holes must be made by the buyer
> 
> ...


sounds pretty good, nice price too. I agree with Of'roadbent (who has way more experience with tiny builds than I do) that 11.5mm would be tight for a lflex driver - I think they're ~6mm high at least.


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## BKruahnndon (Jul 17, 2009)

swap the m4x10 ti bolt with aluminum.


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## DIYtailight (Sep 14, 2009)

Is my understanding correct that either of the 2 "chambers", one 11.5mm deep, the other 21.5mm deep can be used either for the driver or the light engine + optic? Looking at the design this seems to be the idea, so that it is possible to run a star with a reflector in the 21.5mm chamber with a small driver in the rear, or a star with a shallow/short lens and a larger driver in the rear.

I'm very interested in these, I might just snap up 2. Are they available now?


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Nice work zemike.
what provisions are there for mounts?


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Looks like a nice little light housing. :thumbsup: 

I have one concern regarding the rear cover attachment method: I assume one will need to screw this cover down with a switch, wire grommet and maybe a stat LED attached and wired to the driver. Won't this require a great deal of care to not twist off all the wires or rip the driver loose?


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

DIYtailight said:


> Is my understanding correct that either of the 2 "chambers", one 11.5mm deep, the other 21.5mm deep can be used either for the driver or the light engine + optic? Looking at the design this seems to be the idea, so that it is possible to run a star with a reflector in the 21.5mm chamber with a small driver in the rear, or a star with a shallow/short lens and a larger driver in the rear.


Correct, this was the idea. Basically the 11.5mm is for triples (you have 21mm for the driver and wiring). The 21mm is for a Regina/ other single optics.

I am working on a waterproof remote switch housing, so there will be no need to place a switch in the light head.


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

kwarwick said:


> I have one concern regarding the rear cover attachment method: I assume one will need to screw this cover down with a switch, wire grommet and maybe a stat LED attached and wired to the driver. Won't this require a great deal of care to not twist off all the wires or rip the driver loose?


That is easy to do: first twist the wires in the opposite direction, then screw the cap. Another possibility with a remote switch - place the cable gland in the center of the cap, screw the cap, the wire will rotate freely in the gland, tighten the cable gland.

Cable entry can also be in the bottom.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Very nice. Also, a surprisingly low price. How much does the unit weigh?

Thanks


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

zemike said:


> Correct, this was the idea. Basically the 11.5mm is for triples (you have 21mm for the driver and wiring). The 21mm is for a Regina/ other single optics.
> 
> I am working on a waterproof remote switch housing, so there will be no need to place a switch in the light head.


Remote?....you done now said the magic word! Is this set-up to work with typical bar mounts?


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## HuffyPuffy (Jun 9, 2008)

Wow, this is great deal for the quality of the enclosure. Very nice to have a purpose built enclosure for DIY'ers that does not break the bank.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

*In for one!*

Price is good and even the shipping is quite reasonable. What the heck, I ordered one.


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

Cat-man-do said:


> Remote?....you done now said the magic word! Is this set-up to work with typical bar mounts?


This housing can be used with Cateye mounts 

Well, the remote switch housing will be from Magicshine (but without their PCB)


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## langen (May 21, 2005)

This is really cool!! I wish we had more offerings like this.

*zemike*: What does it weigh?


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## savagemann (Jan 14, 2008)

Good stuff.
I just picked up 2.
Possibly more in the near future.
Keep the price where it's at zemike. You'll sell alot more that way.


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## Giant-Lander (Feb 13, 2009)

savagemann said:


> Good stuff.
> I just picked up 2.
> Possibly more in the near future.
> Keep the price where it's at zemike. You'll sell alot more that way.


Ordered 5 in the first day! :thumbsup:


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

langen said:


> *zemike*: What does it weigh?


I don't have a precise scale. Around 40 grams.


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## Mike E. (Jan 5, 2004)

Just ordered one.

Now to figure out what to put in it.....good thing I have lots of time on my hands after knee surgery.

Any quick and nasty suggestions for parts?

Mike


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

Mike E. said:


> Any quick and nasty suggestions for parts?


Regarding the mount: a CatEye spacer and braket works fine.
For the LED + optics - I recommend Lux-rc.com
For the switch - a remote momentary switch is an excellent choice (APEM).


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## savagemann (Jan 14, 2008)

I have a couple triple XPG's I could use to make it a bar light.
Also have a couple triple XPE's to make it a helmet mount thrower.
Will use the maxflex driver.
Not sure which way I'll go with it yet.
Could also do a single XML and LFlex.
Lots of options.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Mike-
Will an L333, optic, glass, and retaining ring fit in the short side? My l333 and optic are 7.9mm. The short side is 11.5mm. Just don't know how much space the retaining ring and glass take up. 

I imagine that is the way you intended the product to be used... 

Thanks


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

baker said:



> Mike-
> Will an L333, optic, glass, and retaining ring fit in the short side? My l333 and optic are 7.9mm.


This is strange. According to the optic drawing (http://www.carclo-optics.com/opticselect/intranet/uploaded_files/optics/33/10511_iss3_121108.pdf)
the total height should be 7.5mm

The short side was designed for Quazzle modules.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

zemike said:


> This is strange. According to the optic drawing (
> the total height should be 7.5mm
> ...ror with my crappy 12 foot tape measure. :-)


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

zemike said:


> This is strange. According to the optic drawing (
> the total height should be 7.5mm
> ...ror with my crappy 12 foot tape measure. :-)


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## langen (May 21, 2005)

I just picked up my 2 bodies yesterday - the size is quite nice 

What would be the best way to waterproof these 100%? 
Put something in the threads maybe? Loctite?


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

langen said:


> What would be the best way to waterproof these 100%?
> Put something in the threads maybe? Loctite?


Yes, Loctite or other thread locks. But this housing is not for diving


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

zemike said:


> This is strange. According to the optic drawing (http://www.carclo-optics.com/opticselect/intranet/uploaded_files/optics/33/10511_iss3_121108.pdf)
> the total height should be 7.5mm
> 
> The short side was designed for Quazzle modules.


the total is 7.7, the board thickness is 1.7mm, see the exact dimensions in the datasheet


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## DIYtailight (Sep 14, 2009)

Can one also use appropriate sized o-rings for a seal? I prefer this method to thread lock if possible


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## borrower (Feb 26, 2011)

Thanks, zemike! Ordered on the 14th; got it in the UK this morning (25th).

A very sweet looking unit...


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Got the housing today. Looks good. 
Now to figure out whether to stick the switch or cable gland on the back...

I'm going to see if I can find some Loctite thread sealer, rather than the thread adhesive, so I can disassemble it for upgrades. Has anyone tried this yet?

Kinda expensive to order online for a trial.

Edit- found a small packet on eBay
Thread Sealant Packet | eBay

but still waiting to hear if anyone's got experience with the stuff as far as disassembly goes.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Edit- found a small packet on eBay
> Thread Sealant Packet | eBay
> 
> but still waiting to hear if anyone's got experience with the stuff as far as disassembly goes.


The maintenance guys at work use that exact brand sealant in your ebay link. It is a non-drying whitish "paste". They use it on water and compressed air piping systems. It does come apart easily. You should be able to find it or a similar product at any good plumbing supply.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Vancbiker said:


> The maintenance guys at work use that exact brand sealant in your ebay link. It is a non-drying whitish "paste". They use it on water and compressed air piping systems. It does come apart easily. You should be able to find it or a similar product at any good plumbing supply.


Great! I'll see what the shipping is on eBay.
I do have silicone thread lube, which I'll use in the meantime on the lens threads.

Incidentally, I found that an O-ring fits around the back cap just fine, so it's waterproof.
I've already finished the build, except for the mount.

I used an XM-L, XM-L optic and L-flex. Waterproof switch on the back cap, cable gland exiting behind the screw.

It went together fast. Pics coming soon.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Looking forward to the pics and some ride reports. My second housing is still sitting around waiting to be built.


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## Voldmort (Dec 12, 2011)

*Hello all*

New here but have been reading the threads and there are some very interesting topics.

I hope I can contribute a little.:thumbsup:


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## Voldmort (Dec 12, 2011)

I purchased 4 of these housings and they are very good, I am running 2 with luxion tri star's Cree XP G engine and an external BuckPuck 1Amp reg. One has the elliptical Carlco and the other a Carlco spot. The light given off is very suitable the the riding I do with a wide spill and a good throw. 

The only problem I have is that you cannot attach anything to the back plate as you have to screw it in, it would be better to have a 2 piece housing with an O ring and 3 set screws holding it together. The last 2 housing I am going to attach to a machined bridging box to connect the 2 housing and contain the Reg and the switching etc a bit like a grown up AY-UP.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

you can attach something to the centre of the back plate if you're careful, especially if you're using an o-ring which reduces the no. of turns needed to seal it. I put a cable gland and power cable in the centre, twisted the wires counterclockwise before tightening the gland down and left a couple cm of slack. I tested it out a couple of times and the wires were fine, plus it's been in use for a month or so without problems.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

You can also run a switch through the back plate. If you use silicone wire and pre-twist it one turn, and use an o-ring as above, it threads in well. 
You then need to run the power in through the side or bottom with a cable gland.
I'm just waiting for an XM-L to see if I can get the switch and driver in the shallow end, and a decent optic or reflector in the deeper end.

Zemike has mentioned he's coming up with an extension tube too.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

I have one of these bodies on the way. I was planning on using a gland from one of the magicshine "coke can" batteries and cutting a y-cable for the connector, then using a digikey switch mounted on the back for turning it on/off/up/down. It wouldn't even matter if a little moisture got into the back as the wires will be running into the front via a tinsy little hole that I plan to seal with a little silicone. Am I way off base?

BTW, I just tracked my delivery and it left California 4 days ago. I'd be suprised if it didn't arrive today


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

I think you're pretty much there. One thing is don't use the Y-cables for connectors, the wires are crazy thin. Just buy a 1m MS extension cable and cut that down instead.

What driver/LED/optic are you going to use? That would help with narrowing down the rest more easily


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

mattthemuppet said:


> I think you're pretty much there. One thing is don't use the Y-cables for connectors, the wires are crazy thin. Just buy a 1m MS extension cable and cut that down instead.
> 
> What driver/LED/optic are you going to use? That would help with narrowing down the rest more easily


I have an L332, Carlco narrow optic (and a narrow frosted). I also have an extension that I could hack up if needed.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

gticlay said:


> I have an L332, Carlco narrow optic (and a narrow frosted). I also have an extension that I could hack up if needed.


wow, you're golden in that case. That will make it just about the simplest build you can do 

I have some vague unspecified memories of someone having a 4 core power cable and remote (might be Zemike, I know he had a MS remote for ~$10 plus p+p). That way all you'd need to do is drill one hole in the back plate and add a cable gland of some sort.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

mattthemuppet said:


> wow, you're golden in that case. That will make it just about the simplest build you can do
> 
> I have some vague unspecified memories of someone having a 4 core power cable and remote (might be Zemike, I know he had a MS remote for ~$10 plus p+p). That way all you'd need to do is drill one hole in the back plate and add a cable gland of some sort.


I'm really not very interested in a remote switch. They sound nice, but like a hassle....


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

hmm, I think that they're awesome, especially for a bar light. Lift thumb, move thumb, change light level. They're slightly less useful on the helmet, but a remote velcroed to the side of your helmet is a lot easier to find quickly than a switch on a light on the top (especially if your mount isn't indexed and pressing the switch moves the light). Plus it makes builds like this a lot easier.

Each to their own though


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

A remote switch is much better than a switch on the light. Right now I have 2 remote switches on the handlebars.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

I do have some Cateye switches if those would work. I saw that super minimalist body someone machined up and they used the 4-strand mic wire (or something...) and a cateye switch so I picked a few up a while back. So. Many. Wires. though.

Maybe I should have ordered up one with the body but if I recall, they were about as much as the CNC body.

Also, I plan to test it out first, but does the body really need the fins on it with an L332? I might end up doing a little belt sanding and polish if it runs real cool.

Edit to add: Thank you to both Matt and Mike for your comments, I appreciate them.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

gticlay said:


> I'm really not very interested in a remote switch. They sound nice, but like a hassle....


I have always used a remote switch with my bar and helmet lights. It is so easy to press it with your thumb and safer because your hands are always on the bars.

I use a momentary tactile switch inside some heatshrink tube and some 2 core cable. This works really well with the taskled drivers as there is no load involved but am unsure how it would go with the L322 arrangement as I have never used one.


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## Rich_SC (Oct 10, 2009)

brad72 said:


> I have always used a remote switch with my bar and helmet lights. It is so easy to press it with your thumb and safer because your hands are always on the bars.
> 
> I use a momentary tactile switch inside some heatshrink tube and some 2 core cable. This works really well with the taskled drivers as there is no load involved but am unsure how it would go with the L322 arrangement as I have never used one.


That's how I have my maxflex 7up xpg set up and just tonight my light started going nuts. Totally possessed. It turns out that the small tactile switch either shorted or ??? I'll never know cuz I just ripped it off and tossed it. Yeah, I was a little pissed :madmax: haha. That cured it and I got home by just touching the bare wires together to change intensify.

I'm looking for a beefier tactile switch now.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Rich_SC said:


> That's how I have my maxflex 7up xpg set up and just tonight my light started going nuts. Totally possessed. It turns out that the small tactile switch either shorted or ??? I'll never know cuz I just ripped it off and tossed it. Yeah, I was a little pissed :madmax: haha. That cured it and I got home by just touching the bare wires together to change intensify.
> 
> I'm looking for a beefier tactile switch now.


Yeah that would give me the sh#ts also. When you buy the tactile switch check the force required to activate it because I have found the ones that require a high force seem to fail less.

I have found ones like in the following link work well Buy Tactile/Keyboard Switches Switch Tact,12x12mm,flat act,hi force Omron B3F4105 online from RS for next day delivery.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

Rich_SC said:


> That's how I have my maxflex 7up xpg set up and just tonight my light started going nuts. Totally possessed. It turns out that the small tactile switch either shorted or ??? I'll never know cuz I just ripped it off and tossed it. Yeah, I was a little pissed :madmax: haha. That cured it and I got home by just touching the bare wires together to change intensify.
> 
> I'm looking for a beefier tactile switch now.


No switch then... :thumbsup:


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

Rich_SC said:


> That's how I have my maxflex 7up xpg set up and just tonight my light started going nuts. Totally possessed. It turns out that the small tactile switch either shorted or ??? I'll never know cuz I just ripped it off and tossed it. .


Maybe that's due to interference in the cables. The problem can be solved by using shielded cables or by adding something (I don't remember what) to the switch.


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## Rich_SC (Oct 10, 2009)

The problem was most likely due to these micro tactile switchs I ordered by mistake... 6mm square ones before I really knew what I needed. Very tiny soldering posts.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

So my DIY body showed up today... Hopefully I can get it built up tomorrow morning.


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## shirk (Mar 24, 2004)

I forget if this has been confirmed or not but I'll ask.

Will an XLM with modified Regina fit in this? And an AMC7135 driver in the other end? 

Thinking of one of these with an inline switch would be nice.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

shirk said:


> I forget if this has been confirmed or not but I'll ask.
> 
> Will an XLM with modified Regina fit in this? And an AMC7135 driver in the other end?
> 
> Thinking of one of these with an inline switch would be nice.


An XML with Regina will fit in the deep end.
An AMC7135 should fit in the shallow end, but there's no room for a switch. Not a problem if you use a cable out the back via gland and an inline switch

I'm just in the process of fitting a switch and L-flex in the shallow end of one of these, with a cable gland exiting the deeper end. It'll be close.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

How does the L332 stay centered? The od is smaller than the body id.


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## borrower (Feb 26, 2011)

I used thermal grease, which kinda stuck the 332 in place, then screwed down the lense. A tiny bit off center doesn't seem to matter much.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Thermal tape is another option.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

don't use thermal tape with 33x engines (they simply can't provide sufficient thermal path)

as the secondary optics is already well "centered" on the board, "the sandwitch" centering inside the housing has no effect on the light dissipation.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

quazzle said:


> don't use thermal tape with 33x engines (they simply can't provide sufficient thermal path)
> 
> as the secondary optics is already well "centered" on the board, "the sandwitch" centering inside the housing has no effect on the light dissipation.


I don't think you guys understand the depths of my OCD when it comes to things being lined up or in order, or centered :lol: I'm kidding but that kind of thing always bugs me quite a bit. Well, the thermal paste and sandwich technique seems to work fine for now.

I'm a little worried about the front unscrewing while I'm riding - I guess a drop of blue loctite.... but I did want to be able to remove the front at some point.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I got some thread sealant on eBay. It tightens up the threads and waterproofs them, but can supposedly be removed. I'll have to look up the brand.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

OK, got it sorted. Regina, L-flex, cable gland and switch all fitted into this light body.










See post 58 here for construction details

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/easy2led-xm-l-build-737057-2.html#post8834069


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Zemike, I think you made a comment recently that you were looking at increasing the inside diameter slightly so that drivers like b2/3flex could fit? Do you have a timeline on doing so as I have one build that I would really like to use a b2flex that I already own.

Thanks!

Karl


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

Karl, I am working on a larger version for 35mm optics, so I had to postpone the 26mm housing.

Mike


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

zemike said:


> Karl, I am working on a larger version for 35mm optics, so I had to postpone the 26mm housing.
> 
> Mike


OK, then I'll change my question... Do you have a timeline on the 35mm version? 

Karl


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

I am finalizing the design for the 35mm version. I will post it here.
Production will take 6-8 weeks.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

I'd be interested in one where the quazzle unit fits in a little tighter.

Mike - do you have some links handy to the 'stuff' that uses 35mm board and optics? Is that for the 4-up board that someone was selling? I don't really know where to start.

Thanks!


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

gticlay said:


> Mike - do you have some links handy to the 'stuff' that uses 35mm board and optics?


That is for a triple XM-L or a 7-up XM-L board 
7 x CREE XM-L U2 on round PCB by LED-TECH.de


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

zemike said:


> That is for a triple XM-L or a 7-up XM-L board
> 7 x CREE XM-L U2 on round PCB by LED-TECH.de


Oh, sweet. I've built up a 7-up (xpg) this winter and it's a FANTASTIC light. I do want to build another one so put me down for a housing


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

zemike said:


> That is for a triple XM-L or a 7-up XM-L board
> 7 x CREE XM-L U2 on round PCB by LED-TECH.de


Actually the optics for the 7 up boards are 40mm even though that particular board is 35mm.... Cutters 7up XPG board is 40mm.

35mm housing would work great for the 3 up XML boards though.


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

Hey Mike,

the 35mm housing will definitely not work with the 7-up boards XM-L/XP-G/XP-E !!
The Optic (Polymere or Kathod) have 39mm outher diameter!
Can you make the housing to fit this boards+optic too??


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

7-up boards are really cool and everything, but don't forget that this will still most likely be a fairly small housing. I think it might be worth dialing expectations back a smidge until we get to see the final product.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

mattthemuppet said:


> 7-up boards are really cool and everything, but don't forget that this will still most likely be a fairly small housing. I think it might be worth dialing expectations back a smidge until we get to see the final product.


I would agree. My ideal housing could take 35mm LED/optics and have room for a driver the size of an b3flex or H6flex.


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

Sorry guys, but the H6flex is too big for the future 35mm housing. The pill for the driver is smaller than 35mm.


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

zemike said:


> Sorry guys, but the H6flex is too big for the future 35mm housing. The pill for the driver is smaller than 35mm.


The H6Flex is 1.30 inch diameter, that is 33.02mm.

Led-tech is going to sell a 35mm 7xXM-L on copper board soon, optic is 39mm diameter.


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

mrradlos said:


> The H6Flex is 1.30 inch diameter, that is 33.02mm.
> 
> Led-tech is going to sell a 35mm 7xXM-L on copper board soon, optic is 39mm diameter.


Which optic are you going to us with theese boards to accomodate a 35mm inner diameter?? :eekster::eekster:


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

I'm not going to build a 7xXM-L light on one board, because there is not enough room for bigger optics per LED - meaning that there will be too much light in the near and not enough throw. But others might see that differntly.

There are two ways to use the polymer optics and the 35mm housing:
- file the optic smaller
- let the wider front of the optic stand out at the front of the housing.

I would do the second because like that you can also use the light that leaves the optic through the side.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

mrradlos said:


> I would do the second because like that you can also use the light that leaves the optic through the side.


that's a great way to destroy your night vision when you go over logs or rock piles  There's a reason why people add small hoods to their bar lights you know..


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

Well, the question is: why using a H6flex (6 amps max) when it is possible to use a b3flex ? (same features but 3A max) ? The new 35mm housing won't be able to handle a triple SSC setup anyway.


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

I would do the second because like that you can also use the light that leaves the optic through the side.



mattthemuppet said:


> that's a great way to destroy your night vision when you go over logs or rock piles  There's a reason why people add small hoods to their bar lights you know..


Yes, I really meand the sides (and down), but beware the light going up!:thumbsup:

Mountainbiking by night, rules:
1: Evrey rider needs a helmet!
2: Evrey barlight needs a cap!


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

zemike said:


> Well, the question is: why using a H6flex (6 amps max) when it is possible to use a b3flex ? (same features but 3A max) ? The new 35mm housing won't be able to handle a triple SSC setup anyway.


Yes, b3flex is enough to drive 3 X-ML (and not more) at 3A and the housing hopefuly too! 
Thank you for your super work zemike:thumbsup:


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

thanks Zemike, recieved the new housings last week!! Looks really great!


public question:
Which would be be the best optic for 3xXML in this housing?


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## NEstinkyrider (Sep 10, 2007)

mrradlos said:


> I would do the second because like that you can also use the light that leaves the optic through the side.
> 
> Yes, I really meand the sides (and down), but beware the light going up!:thumbsup:
> 
> ...


Zemike - have you considered creating a 'hood' for the M36 housing?

Seems like the M36 is a better candidate for a bar light and having a 'hood' on the bar light seems like a popular option. I'm thinking about something built into the retainer ring. Would make for a nice add-on that I'm sure a lot of folks would pay a few extra dollars for.

Just a thought.


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

NEstinkyrider said:


> Zemike - have you considered creating a 'hood' for the M36 housing?


I have experimented - the hood must be very long, maybe longer than the housing itself.

There is another possibility - a custom optic with a sharper cutoff line.
I am working on it. Also I plan to release a 3D model of the housing in Sketchup.


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

Hey guys,
how easy can the easy2led housing handle the 15W 334 module from lux-rc?

It should be safe for users who are not so familiar with the heat problem.

Build already some with the 10W modules - no problem there, but 15W - please help me out with some real life experience!
cheers
Whitedog


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

Whitedog1 said:


> Hey guys,
> how easy can the easy2led housing handle the 15W 334 module from lux-rc?


It's possible. I use two 15W modules of the previous generation. For the 334 version I recommend ordering with a "easy2led firmware"
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/easy2led-firmware-quazzles-l334-modules-815595.html

Also a remote switch will help by not having to burn at max all the time.


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