# Removing head set crown race from fork



## newbiescrub (Jun 30, 2005)

Hi, 
Is there an alternative way to remove the crown race from a fork? Alternative meaning not having access to a crown race puller. I was thinking of jamming a flat screw driver between the fork and race, but i don't want to damage the steer tube. Any suggestions? I may just take it to the shop.

Thanks


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## Mike T. (Dec 30, 2003)

newbiescrub said:


> Hi,
> Is there an alternative way to remove the crown race from a fork? Alternative meaning not having access to a crown race puller. I was thinking of jamming a flat screw driver between the fork and race, but i don't want to damage the steer tube. Any suggestions? I may just take it to the shop.
> Thanks


The ratio of crown races pulled with a puller to those tapped of with a hammer and screwdriver is probably in the range of thousands to one. Usually it's about a five second job or a one minute job if you have to round up the tools (hammer, screwdriver, block o' wood) first.


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## Becane73 (Sep 26, 2006)

Mike T. said:


> The ratio of crown races pulled with a puller to those tapped of with a hammer and screwdriver is probably in the range of thousands to one. Usually it's about a five second job or a one minute job if you have to round up the tools (hammer, screwdriver, block o' wood) first.


Make that 1001 to 1. I used the hammer and screw driver method as well. The hard part is to get the crown race up enough to fit the screw driver between the gap without scratching the fork. I started out with the smallest screwdriver I had and a little TLC to move the CR up then finished it off with a bigger screwdriver. You might want to put a little buffer (cloth or something soft) between the screw driver and the fork as you tap so not to scratch your fork. I also had a rubber mallet, an invaluable tool in my arsenal.


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## Mike T. (Dec 30, 2003)

Becane73 said:


> Make that 1001 to 1. I used the hammer and screw driver method as well. The hard part is to get the crown race up enough to fit the screw driver between the gap without scratching the fork. I started out with the smallest screwdriver I had and a little TLC to move the CR up then finished it off with a bigger screwdriver. You might want to put a little buffer (cloth or something soft) between the screw driver and the fork as you tap so not to scratch your fork. I also had a rubber mallet, an invaluable tool in my arsenal.


On trickier jobs I've tapped paint scrapers or knife blades in there to create a little gap big enough for the screwdriver. Whatever it takes! Creativity counts.


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## biotruth (Sep 29, 2005)

i decided to upgrade rather than rely on screwdrivers any more, but dind't want to pay the $100 or more for the park

found a 2.5 inch bearing splitter (which is essentially what the park/hozan/etc are, minuse the long tube and slide hammer) for $15 on ebay.

works great. just put the blades on either side of the race and gradually tighten, then tap off.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRAN...012QQitemZ220066353258QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW


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## misctwo (Oct 24, 2004)

biotruth said:


> i decided to upgrade rather than rely on screwdrivers any more, but dind't want to pay the $100 or more for the park
> 
> found a 2.5 inch bearing splitter (which is essentially what the park/hozan/etc are, minuse the long tube and slide hammer) for $15 on ebay.
> 
> ...


i just got mine in the mail. quite an ingenious and inexpensive tool. thanks for the link! :thumbsup:


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## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

misctwo said:


> i just got mine in the mail. quite an ingenious and inexpensive tool. thanks for the link! :thumbsup:


Is it possible to take close up pics of the blades on the bearing splitter? I checked the eBay listing but the pictures are a little small. 
Thanks!


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## misctwo (Oct 24, 2004)

flipnidaho said:


> Is it possible to take close up pics of the blades on the bearing splitter? I checked the eBay listing but the pictures are a little small.
> Thanks!


camera has just lost juice...i'll snap a pic soon....what's your concern? the 'blades' are probably sharp enough to lift a race, but won't be cutting tomatoes clean....


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## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

misctwo said:


> camera has just lost juice...i'll snap a pic soon....what's your concern? the 'blades' are probably sharp enough to lift a race, but won't be cutting tomatoes clean....


I just wanted to make sure that it can do both 1" and 1.5" races.


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## misctwo (Oct 24, 2004)

flipnidaho said:


> I just wanted to make sure that it can do both 1" and 1.5" races.


gotcha...lookin at it, the 'cutting' surface is 3/4" wide, and the bolts allow the forged parts to slide far enough away to remove a 1.5" race..

precision is kinda lacking, but for $20 shipped, i'll take it...

i'll snap a shot with ruler. jeez the things i do for this forum :skep:


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

I just used a block of wood, tapping with a hammer on alternating on both sides of the fork where the flat of the fork race was exposed. The wood was all beat up in the end, but the race and the fork were undamaged. I wanted to move the race to another fork.

What's the bearing splitter all about? It destroys the race, right?


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## misctwo (Oct 24, 2004)

MikeDee said:


> I just used a block of wood, tapping with a hammer on alternating on both sides of the fork where the flat of the fork race was exposed. The wood was all beat up in the end, but the race and the fork were undamaged. I wanted to move the race to another fork.
> 
> What's the bearing splitter all about? It destroys the race, right?


why would the bearing splitter desstroy the race, while your block of wood and hammer would leave the race undamaged? more like the other way around.  if you like the way you do it, fine.

yeah you can do that with sid forks and other crap but not with the forks with bigger crowns.


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

misctwo said:


> why would the bearing splitter desstroy the race, while your block of wood and hammer would leave the race undamaged? more like the other way around.  if you like the way you do it, fine.
> 
> yeah you can do that with sid forks and other crap but not with the forks with bigger crowns.


I guess I don't know what a bearing splitter is. How does it work? What is being split?

Wood is much softer than steel, so it does no damage to the race.


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## Mike T. (Dec 30, 2003)

MikeDee said:


> I guess I don't know what a bearing splitter is. How does it work? What is being split?


A bearing splitter is no more than an  inclined plane.


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## biotruth (Sep 29, 2005)

heh, glad you like it too. i've used mine half a dozen times with no problem (all 1 1/8th)


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## Surfas (Sep 13, 2005)

This his a better alternative to hammer/screwdriver and expensive Park Tool.
http://www.billys.co.uk/english/group.php?prod=2cs-crownrace-remove


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## Mike T. (Dec 30, 2003)

Surfas said:


> This his a better alternative to hammer/screwdriver and expensive Park Tool.


Twenty five GBP (about $50) for a tool that will only work with minimal sized unicrown forks? I'll do a couple or four taps with a hammer and screwdriver thanks.


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## misctwo (Oct 24, 2004)

MikeDee said:


> I guess I don't know what a bearing splitter is. How does it work? What is being split?
> 
> Wood is much softer than steel, so it does no damage to the race.


oh i thought u meant to somehow use the wood to tap on the hammer for some reason...duh..my bad what does the wood look like? if it's thin and long i'd think it wouldn't stand up to much abuse from a hammer....

i used the bearing splitter and it's a liitle sketchy actually...tried to remove a race from a 66 when all i needed to do was pry it up with a screwdriver.:madman: no damage, just an overkill tool.


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## J-7 (Apr 5, 2004)

What I like to use for that initial gap creating move is a wood chisel. They have a sharp point and a decent amount of "wedge" to get job started. Just begin with the chisel perpendicular to the steerer and the angled side towards the race and tap a bit. Go all the way around and you should get a gap big enough to continue with a slotted screwdriver. I never found those U shaped tools very effective. They're doing the same exact thing as a screwdriver and they can damage the race as well.

J


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## Cabin Fever (Jan 23, 2004)

Surfas said:


> This his a better alternative to hammer/screwdriver and expensive Park Tool.
> http://www.billys.co.uk/english/group.php?prod=2cs-crownrace-remove


Yeah, we have a Hozan version of that tool, and it is great.... if you have a tiny crown on the fork, and a lower headset cup that extends over the edge of the crown. they're useless on nearly all suspension forks, and most carbon road forks.


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## Uncle Six Pack (Aug 29, 2004)

J-7 said:


> What I like to use for that initial gap creating move is a wood chisel. They have a sharp point and a decent amount of "wedge" to get job started. Just begin with the chisel perpendicular to the steerer and the angled side towards the race and tap a bit. Go all the way around and you should get a gap big enough to continue with a slotted screwdriver. I never found those U shaped tools very effective. They're doing the same exact thing as a screwdriver and they can damage the race as well.
> 
> J


I'll 2nd the wood chisel. After reading this thread, I decided I should try to do it myself instead of having the bike shop do it. I did my first ever removal last night (putting on a new fork) and it was actually so easy that I was amazed. Putting it on the new fork took a little bit more concentration (to keep it square and to not scratch the race surface) but went equally well!


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