# Cutting a seatpost?



## fongster (Dec 5, 2011)

I'm replacing a 350mm Easton EA30 with a TruVative Stylo Team which is 400mm long (I need the longer setback). Do folks commonly cut off the excess length, leaving enough for some adjustment/safe amount in the seat tube?


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## Bro (Dec 20, 2010)

My uncle gave me his old S-works FSR, from the 2000 model year. That frame design means that there's only so much seatpost that can fit in the seat tube, so I've been cutting the seatpost by about a half-inch until I can lower the saddle sufficiently to fit me well (my uncle is a bit taller than me).

Unfortunately, it's a Thomson Elite seatpost, and I feel so bad hacking away at the nicest bike/component that I've ever owned. Oh well, it has to be done. 

On frames with full-length seat tubes, I don't cut the seatpost. Except for minimal weight savings, there's no point. If you cut too much, you risk breaking the frame, the seat post, and/or the family jewels.


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## wbmason55 (May 30, 2010)

I would never cut the seat tube unless a frame design made it absolutely necessary,


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## Jason B (Aug 15, 2008)

wbmason55 said:


> I would never cut the seat tube unless a frame design made it absolutely necessary,


They are talking about cutting the seat post, not seat tube.

Cut away. No harm in making it fit at all.


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## wbmason55 (May 30, 2010)

Jason B said:


> They are talking about cutting the seat post, not seat tube.
> 
> Cut away. No harm in making it fit at all.


woops, meant to say say seat post...obviously..who the heck would cut the seat tube?

The OP is not cutting the post to make it fit, he's asking if he should cut off excess just because. What happens when you want to want to switch your modified seat post to another frame and you don't have enough post length?...screwed.


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## heyyall (Nov 10, 2011)

Cutting your seat post is one of the most effective ways of tearing your seat tube to pieces. Also, if you cut off the bottom, you will have to adjust the max height line by the same amount...that is, you need a certain amount of length in the tube to have the seat post be safe. The amount of weight savings is so minimal that I would not worry about it. Only cut if you must to have it fit in the seat post.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

It's a very common thing to do. As long as you leave enough post for there to be the "frame makers" reccomendation for minimal insertion into the frame at highest height.the rider will need it in the climbing position. In otherwards figure out the highest you will need it and leave enough to insert into frame that is reccomended. To avoid frame warranty issues and then cut it. A hacksaw or pipe cutter works. The pipe cutter works better with less of a rough edge. But with either tool you choose you still need to file the sharp edge and get rid of the burs. In order to avoid damaging the frame seat tower on the inside.

What was Nike's slogan again hmmm....Just Do It"


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

I wouldn't bother cutting it unless you are a weight weenie or it hits something in frame. the longer the seat post is the stronger everything is, and also the less likely you are to have movement that causes the annoying seat post creak :madman:


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## SpinDirt (Feb 22, 2007)

thomllama said:


> I wouldn't bother cutting it unless you are a weight weenie or it hits something in frame. the longer the seat post is the stronger everything is, and also the less likely you are to have movement that causes the annoying seat post creak :madman:


There is nothing wrong with cutting your seatpost. I have cut several throughout the years and have had no issues. As far as a seatpost creak I have never had that either.How would cutting your seatpost make for the dreaded seatpost creak. That would be caused by the wrong diameter seatpost for what the frame was intended for. And the correct way of cutting is the way DJ described. As far as it being because of saving weight that is just a benifit. The most common reason is that ugly useless extra post sticking out. Of course that is from an interrupted seatpost designed frame. Which also brrings to light the fact that if you don't cut it damage could occur to the shock. But normal non interuped designed frames who needs six inches more to deal with while the seat is off the bike. I say you don't need it get rid of it.


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## Stugotz (Dec 14, 2011)

Agree with all that has been said about not cutting down the seat post. In addition if you ever do go to sell it, I personally believe you will have decreased it's value in doing so.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Cut it, who cares about resale on a used seat post? Just make sure you don't cut it too short.


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

SpinDirt said:


> ... As far as a seatpost creak I have never had that either.How would cutting your seatpost make for the dreaded seatpost creak. ....


Seatposts are just slightly smaller than the seat tube. with a normal bike (not the "Y" frames where the post bottom is exposed) the post actually does bobble around inside the seat tube, it's a very small amount but it does and twists around at the clamp. the longer the post, the less movement at the clamp, the less likely of a creak.

Also the longer the post is the more force is distributed along the seat tube, less likely to brake the frame. One of the reasons they make the longer post in the first place. That and for people who want to jack their seat up higher on frames with lower/shorter seat tube setups.

hey if you want to cut it, go to town, as long as you don't cut it too short it's probably not going to hurt anything, Just a waste of time unless your that much a weight weenie/racer type where every gram counts. guessing from the 2 posts he has/used his not a weight weenie as neither of those are especially light weight models


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## SpinDirt (Feb 22, 2007)

thomllama said:


> Seatposts are just slightly smaller than the seat tube. with a normal bike (not the "Y" frames where the post bottom is exposed) the post actually does bobble around inside the seat tube, it's a very small amount but it does and twists around at the clamp. the longer the post, the less movement at the clamp, the less likely of a creak.
> 
> Also the longer the post is the more force is distributed along the seat tube, less likely to brake the frame. One of the reasons they make the longer post in the first place. That and for people who want to jack their seat up higher on frames with lower/shorter seat tube setups.
> 
> hey if you want to cut it, go to town, as long as you don't cut it too short it's probably not going to hurt anything, Just a waste of time unless your that much a weight weenie/racer type where every gram counts. guessing from the 2 posts he has/used his not a weight weenie as neither of those are especially light weight models


Wrong they make it extra long so you can cut it down to your preferance. The rest of what you say is is all a bunch of glue. You think the seatpost is what glues the whole bike together. Like I said I have cut several with no seatpost creaklng issues. Ask any reputable frame maker or seatpost maker and they will confirm it is meant to be cut to size. Just follow the recomendations of the frame maker for minimal insertion. Don't cut too short.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Try this again...


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

SpinDirt said:


> ..... Ask any reputable frame maker or seatpost maker and they will confirm it is meant to be cut to size. Just follow the recomendations of the frame maker for minimal insertion. Don't cut too short.


instead of just flaming people because they have a different opinion than you you might want to actually provide some actual facts or information. Maybe even learn how to discuss something without being insulting.
I have yet to see any manufacture of either posts or frames that recommend cutting a post unless it's needed to clear and obstruction in the seat tube or on a "Y" type frames some downhillers use that exposes the seat tube at the bottom and will rub on the tire.

Again, if you want to cut it, be my guest, but it's not needed...


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## Scrub (Feb 3, 2004)

AZ.MTNS said:


> Cut it, who cares about resale on a used seat post? Just make sure you don't cut it too short.


+1 and if you're a weight weenie you can shave some weight off.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

wbmason55 said:


> What happens when you want to want to switch your modified seat post to another frame and you don't have enough post length?...screwed.


odds are that the diameter wont fit either - so double-screwed? :idea:


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

highdelll said:


> odds are that the diameter wont fit either - so double-screwed? :idea:


So I guess we should live our lives around saving our six foot seatpost to switch from bike to bike. That is as highdell says you're lucky enough that future frames have the same insertion diameter. You can tell the newcomers in the sport they think cutting the seatpost is what was never meant to happen. Even though the manufacturers sell them at 2' long. Hello they are meant to be cut to the riders preferance. As long as you follow the frame makers minimal insertion line. Don't cut too short and it's just fine.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

highdelll said:


> odds are that the diameter wont fit either - so double-screwed? :idea:


So I guess we should live our lives around saving our six foot seatpost to switch from bike to bike. That is as highdell says you're lucky enough that future frames have the same insertion diameter. You can tell the newcomers in the sport they think cutting the seatpost is what was never meant to happen. Even though the manufacturers sell them at 2' long. Hello they are meant to be cut to the riders preferance. As long as you follow the frame makers minimal insertion line. Don't cut too short and it's just fine.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

heyyall said:


> Cutting your seat post is one of the most effective ways of tearing your seat tube to pieces.


That's just wrong.



thomllama said:


> Seatposts are just slightly smaller than the seat tube. with a normal bike (not the "Y" frames where the post bottom is exposed) the post actually does bobble around inside the seat tube, it's a very small amount but it does and twists around at the clamp. the longer the post, the less movement at the clamp, the less likely of a creak.
> 
> Also the longer the post is the more force is distributed along the seat tube, less likely to brake the frame. One of the reasons they make the longer post in the first place. That and for people who want to jack their seat up higher on frames with lower/shorter seat tube setups.


Beyond a certain inserted length of post it makes no difference. Enough length is enough, and more doesn't make it better.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

bad mechanic said:


> That's just wrong.
> 
> Beyond a certain inserted length of post it makes no difference. Enough length is enough, and more doesn't make it better.


Exactly! And as far as hiyall said cutting it will ruin the inside of the frame. Wrong! That's why you file the rough edge off.


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## heyyall (Nov 10, 2011)

I wasn't talking about scratching the tube. Was simply talking about simple physics and leverage.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

heyyall said:


> I wasn't talking about scratching the tube. Was simply talking about simple physics and leverage.


Still wrong. Provided you have at least the minimum length necessary inserted, it won't do any harm.


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## heyyall (Nov 10, 2011)

^^^which is why I said that. In any case, let's move on. Te OP has enough info to make an informed decision.


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## MitchD (Jun 16, 2010)

I am a short guy no two ways about it. My XS frame bike came with the same seatpost that the XL bike has. I know because I pulled both and measured.On my frame there is a slight curve that will not allow you to insert the seatpost all the way, The only choice is cut some off.And that is what Performance bike did before I left the store


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

From Truvativ..
_Truvativ Stylo Team Alloy Seatpost

3D forged 7050 aluminum mast with fore/aft *internal butting *and tapered end for increased strength and reduced weight_

Internal butting means they change the thickness of the tubing in the center by making a thinner wall, I wouldn't recommend cutting it too much.. the "tapered ends" could be sacrificed but honestly, why bother? 

I don't think you'll really hurt anything if you want to cut it down a bit if you are that set on it..Just make sure you have at least 100mm inside the tube or it goes beyond the bottom of the top tube's intersection with the seat tube, which ever is longer...


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