# Suspension Seat Post



## anthdan (Feb 9, 2016)

Looking to smooth out my HT ride. I ride single track with a lot of roots, rollers, and small drops. Nothing crazy. Nashbar has the Thudbuster LT on sale for $112 (25% off)

Cane Creek Thudbuster LT Seatpost

Or the Suntour for $89 from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Suntour-SP12-NCX-Mountain-Suspension-Seatpost/dp/B01BIQN9UC?th=1&psc=1

Some reviews say the Thudbuster can be a little "bouncy" and the Suntour is more adjustable.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

pablum police said:


> Neither. Get your ass off the seat and use your built in suspension (knees, hips, elbows, etc.) to absorb the shock.
> 
> Suspension seatposts suck because the the saddle to BB distance constantly changes and they offer minimal relief.
> 
> Work on your technique.


Beat me to it ^^^

Use what God gave you. When the going gets tough *stand up.*

You will experience:

Smoother
More control
Less fatigue

An all around more of a fun filled ride in better control.

I for one [MX background] ride standing up on all descents and only sit and spin for flat ground and or climbing.


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## azjeff (Jun 3, 2006)

Just what the OP was looking for, being told to get better. 

I've ridden a TB some and the back & down motion is a little weird but it does work. I rode a URT bike for 3 years, the design changes the distance between the saddle and bottom bracket and it's a non-issue. The TB uses elastomers, dead simple and it comes with some different ones to tune. Not sure what the damper is in the Suntour. The parallelogram design is more active than the telescoping kind. The TB is 3", the Suntour is 2". They're not terribly expensive to try out. 

A seatpost will take out some trail chatter but sure won't do anything on small drops or rollers, as said you should be off the saddle for that.


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## anthdan (Feb 9, 2016)

Thanks - I am off the saddle for small drops and rollers. Looking for something to smooth our roots and bumps.


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## MSU Alum (Aug 8, 2009)

Can I assume you've already gone to the biggest volume tires, tubeless at low pressure that you can run?


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

anthdan said:


> Thanks - I am off the saddle for small drops and rollers. Looking for something to smooth our roots and bumps.


Definitely. There's nothing but rocks and roots most places around here. That's why I suggest/recommend full sus bikes (particularly to older riders), otherwise you'd be standing just about the entire ride.

Larger tires and lower pressures do help a lot, even with full sus. Tubeless allows running even lower pressures. At 185lb I'm running 15/17psi f/r in tubeless 2.4" tires for most trail rides on a full sus bike. I do have to slow and unweight for a few sharp edges. I couldn't go quite that low in the rear on a hard tail.


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## anthdan (Feb 9, 2016)

Thanks Lone Rager. Just started mountain biking this year and not ready to spend $2K on a full suspension. "Definitely" what? I am running 2.25 tubes and considering going tubeless in the spring. I run 30/34. I live in NE Ohio. Looking to help my back. Gets a little sore after a while.


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## yzedf (Apr 22, 2014)

Don't wait on going tubeless, the change it makes to the bike is truly that good. This assumes your wheels will work reliably.


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## anthdan (Feb 9, 2016)

How can I tell if my rims will work reliably? I have a GT Outpost which is the *****SportingGoods version of an Aggressor. No name rims


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## MSU Alum (Aug 8, 2009)

anthdan said:


> Thanks Lone Rager. Just started mountain biking this year and not ready to spend $2K on a full suspension. "Definitely" what? I am running 2.25 tubes and considering going tubeless in the spring. I run 30/34. I live in NE Ohio. Looking to help my back. Gets a little sore after a while.


I run a 2.25 rear (actual width 2.19") at 22 PSI and a 2.4 front (actual width is 2.26") at 18 PSI. They're tubeless on 23 mm internal rims. I've run lower, with no problems. Although I'm on a F/S, the ride gets harsh at higher pressures. If I were to get a hardtail, I think I'd be inclined to go plus size, or at least run a light 2.4 at low pressures. Some 2.25's are closer to 2.1, so if you're running those, and running at 34 PSI on the rear, that would make a huge difference in comfort. I'd pass on a shock absorbing dropper post.


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## MSU Alum (Aug 8, 2009)

anthdan said:


> How can I tell if my rims will work reliably? I have a GT Outpost which is the *****SportingGoods version of an Aggressor. No name rims


Stan's Tubeless Kits
Pull off a tire, measure the internal width of the rim. Performance sells the Aggressor. Maybe ask them if the rim can be converted. Or, take it to your LBS and ask for their advice.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

anthdan said:


> Thanks Lone Rager. Just started mountain biking this year and not ready to spend $2K on a full suspension. "Definitely" what? I am running 2.25 tubes and considering going tubeless in the spring. I run 30/34. I live in NE Ohio. Looking to help my back. Gets a little sore after a while.


Definitely as in I understand and agree with your wanting to smooth out the rocks and roots. So to reiterate, if I may: >>> RUN LOWER PRESSURE <<<< in your tires. Next thing: Life is short, your back is sore, buy the damn FS bike. If you wait two years to get it, that'll be two years you did without and suffered in pain for no good reason.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

OP, I don't have a suspension seatpost on my fat bike or my full suspension bike. I do, however have one on my Dahon folding bike that I commute with. 
I really wasn't looking to put a suspension post on the bike, but I needed a little more height on my post and the Thudbuster gave it to me. Also, I feel it protects the frame from my clydeness. It works perfectly and I feel it was worth every penny.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

azjeff said:


> Just what the OP was looking for, being told to get better.


Sorry OP if I came across that way. I was actually just trying to give advice on technique to avoid using a suspension seatpost.


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## kosmo (Oct 27, 2004)

They aren't ideal in every way, but they do offer some "plusses", in many cases.

For that price, it's worth a try, IMO.

No recent direct experience, but I had a Thudbuster a LONG time ago, and it was OK, but got sloppy and rattly pretty quickly.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

You need rear suspension, not a suspension seatpost. Stand up when you ride or spend some money on a new frame, a suspension seatpost will not solve the problem.

and the punchline: hardtails are for young people; you're not young if you're asking questions on this forum


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

anthdan said:


> Thanks Lone Rager. Just started mountain biking this year and not ready to spend $2K on a full suspension. "Definitely" what? I am running 2.25 tubes and considering going tubeless in the spring. I run 30/34. I live in NE Ohio. Looking to help my back. Gets a little sore after a while.


You need help with you're set up, that's waaay too much pressure.


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## azjeff (Jun 3, 2006)

anthdan, posting in the 50+ forum and being new to mtbs and riding a hardtail there might not be much you can do to keep from getting a sore back with your current bike. You can make it less with fatter tires & lower pressure, a seatpost, maybe better position on the bike.... but you're still old and it's still a hardtail! 

Can't blame you for not wanting to drop $$ in a suspension bike until you know you're sticking with it. The new gen + bikes with the big squishy tires and upright position were built for us geezers.


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## Arebee (Sep 13, 2012)

I bought the Thudbuster LT to smooth out my HT's ride over the roots and rocks of New England singletrack. It worked great, and it could be dialed in with different elastomers to get your desired bounce or stiffness. 

I rode with it for about 6 months and I found that I got lazy and never got off the seat. I felt like I became a worse rider. I have since traded it in for a dropper.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Thudbuster seat posts are a good and useful product and anyone here dissing them probably hasn't tried one. I used the short travel version for quite awhile and recommend it.



Nurse Ben said:


> and the punchline: hardtails are for young people; you're not young if you're asking questions on this forum


54 and still loving my hardtail!


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## miatagal96 (Jul 5, 2005)

Check your riding posture. If you are like me and tend to have not the greatest riding posture, that might contribute to (or cause) the back aches. I have a habit of rounding my lower back (especially when I get tired). This makes my back ache. If I tilt my pelvis a bit and lengthen my back, it helps tremendously. I was about to bail halfway through a race because I couldn't take the back pain. My husband (who was riding with me) noticed my posture and yelled at me to straighten my back (I needed a lot of reminders because bad habits are hard to break). It worked! By the end of the race, my back didn't hurt.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

J.B. Weld said:


> Thudbuster seat posts are a good and useful product and anyone here dissing them probably hasn't tried one. I used the short travel version for quite awhile and recommend it.
> 
> 54 and still loving my hardtail!


this

I used Thudbuster ST on two hardtails for a long time (6 years) , and they work great. changed bushings at 3 year point. they do not screw with position on bike and they absorb those unexpected hits just enough


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

pablum police said:


> 51 and still loving my cross bike -who needs fat tires and a suspension fork let alone a suspension seatpost?


Well I bet you're using tires and brakes, ya sissy! Back in my day we just rode the rims and we liked it! And saddles? Don't get me started. Now get the hell off my lawn youngster!


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## net wurker (Sep 13, 2007)

MSU Alum said:


> I'd pass on a shock absorbing dropper post.


Got any links?

I've heard of these thud-busters (they're the only suspension post I know of, but I'm sure there are more) but I've never heard of one that doubles as a suspension post AND a dropper post.


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## panchosdad (Sep 21, 2008)

miatagal96 said:


> Check your riding posture. If you are like me and tend to have not the greatest riding posture, that might contribute to (or cause) the back aches. I have a habit of rounding my lower back (especially when I get tired). This makes my back ache. If I tilt my pelvis a bit and lengthen my back, it helps tremendously. I was about to bail halfway through a race because I couldn't take the back pain. My husband (who was riding with me) noticed my posture and yelled at me to straighten my back (I needed a lot of reminders because bad habits are hard to break). It worked! By the end of the race, my back didn't hurt.


This is the best advice in this thread. My back is good about reminding me to straighten out.


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## SteveF (Mar 5, 2004)

panchosdad said:


> This is the best advice in this thread. My back is good about reminding me to straighten out.


Re posture on the bike, one trick that helps me is some advice I read somewhere a long time ago--picture yourself as trying to touch your top tube with your belly button.


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

I ran squishy posts on some of my aluminum hardtails bitd (USE rather than Thudbuster) and it definitely took some of the rattle out of chattery terrain and helped the back a bit. The slight change in seat-BB distance was a absolutely a non-issue for me; couldn't even notice it. USE posts were telescoping as opposed to the Thudbuster's parallelogram design, so I can't swear that they feel similar, but I'd imagine they do.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

anthdan said:


> Thanks - I am off the saddle for small drops and rollers. Looking for something to smooth our roots and bumps.


Never ridden a suspension seat post....Probably will work out fine...

Since you are just starting out, I would also focus on some core strengthing exercises.


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## thecanoe (Jan 30, 2007)

I use the SR Suntour on my fast bike and love it. At 68, there's not much chance of me getting better' just more contort able. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## azjeff (Jun 3, 2006)

pablum police said:


> 51 and still loving my cross bike -who needs fat tires and a suspension fork let alone a suspension seatpost?


How nice for you. Obviously the OP isn't very manly. Would love to see you ride that cross bike where I ride my + FS @ 59.75.

OP, get your position sorted out, get the post and get out and ride.


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## anthdan (Feb 9, 2016)

Thanks all. Decided to wait on the seat post. Measured my rims yesterday and the internal width is 21mm. Going to try tubeless, stengthing my core, and saving for the FS.


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## fos'l (May 27, 2009)

Been using a "short travel" TB for years; no influence on pedaling and helps soften the bumps even though I use my "innate" suspension as much as possible. If you change your mind, probably won't go wrong with either choice.


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## Manning (Apr 11, 2007)

1. as mentioned before, get the biggest tires that will comfortably fit, and run them at the lowest practical pressure. This is by far the first and most important thing. 
2. Get a thudbuster. I ran a LT on a hardtail mtb for many years with no issues, and currently have a ST on the gravel bike. If you get a LT, set it up a level stiffer than recommended. 

And stand up over the rough stuff!


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

I'm trying to figure out if the over 50 crowd is more relaxed or more get the Fock off my lawn uptight.

The jury is still out, I'll be 👀 balling this forum and get back with my results in the near future.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

pablum police said:


> Neither. Get your ass off the seat and use your built in suspension (knees, hips, elbows, etc.) to absorb the shock.
> 
> Suspension seatposts suck because the the saddle to BB distance constantly changes and they offer minimal relief.
> 
> Work on your technique.


Agree, but I don't think they suck. I have both versions of the Thudbuster, and they do the job well.

However I only used used them briefly because I realised that what they really are is a palliative for a bad riding posture.

On an mtb your legs should be taking the impacts not the base of your spine. I think for older riders this is something we should not ignore.

If you are needing a suspension seatpost, change your riding posture so you don't. You'll never be a teenage riding god again, so look after your body because damage gets incremental at our age, there's no coming back.

(I ride fully rigid, and mainly singlespeed)

I would use a suspension seatpost if I was riding a cruiser type bike where weight is on the saddle and the pedalling position is forward, but then road surfaces are much smoother.

I'll throw another option in though. Consider a fully sprung traditional saddle - no pivots or bushes, and no initial friction, so much more plush, eg a Brooks










I bought a 1930s roadster with one of those in poor condition. It was so comfortable on a 100+ mile ride, I bought a new one for it.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Velobike said:


> If you are needing a suspension seatpost, change your riding posture so you don't.


No one needs a suspension seatpost, or even a bike for that matter. I agree that riding position is very important but legs aren't always the best suspension because getting out of the saddle over every bump isn't always practical. I know Brooks saddles work great for some but an 80 mile ride on a B-67 decades ago nearly rendered me impotent. 3 pounds of pure torture and easily one of the most uncomfortable saddles I've ever had the misfortune to use.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

J.B. Weld said:


> ...because getting out of the saddle over every bump isn't always practical.
> 
> ...I know Brooks saddles work great for some but an 80 mile ride on a B-67 decades ago nearly rendered me impotent. 3 pounds of pure torture and easily one of the most uncomfortable saddles I've ever had the misfortune to use.


Getting your weight off the saddle is the point though. It's not hard if your riding position makes it easy. Generally that is not the riding position used by athletic racers and used in most bike setups, but more upright.

I sympathise with your Brooks experience, there's nothing worse than the wrong saddle. Brooks do have a saddle for every shape and size though.

If you want excruciating try breaking in a new Swallow.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Velobike said:


> I sympathise with your Brooks experience, there's nothing worse than the wrong saddle. Brooks do have a saddle for every shape and size though.


Maybe, I've tried quite a few though and none of them have worked for me.

Athletic racers use similar riding positions because that's what works best for going fast. IME when you're really hammering you can't always afford the extra energy required to unweight the saddle in every situation, which is one of the reasons full suspension bikes now rule the roost.


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## YeahWhatever (May 20, 2008)

I have some lower back issues and tried the Thudbuster with some success on my hard tails. I then switched to the BodyFloat seat post by Cirrus Cycles, and liked it so much that I purchased two more for my other bikes! The BodyFloat seat post does such a great job of smoothing out trail chatter that it almost feels like you're riding a full suspension bike, minus the added traction and stability.

BodyFloat? by Cirrus Cycles


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## hikerdave (Mar 8, 2006)

azjeff said:


> anthdan, posting in the 50+ forum and being new to mtbs and riding a hardtail there might not be much you can do to keep from getting a sore back with your current bike. You can make it less with fatter tires & lower pressure, a seatpost, maybe better position on the bike.... but you're still old and it's still a hardtail!
> 
> Can't blame you for not wanting to drop $$ in a suspension bike until you know you're sticking with it. The new gen + bikes with the big squishy tires and upright position were built for us geezers.


I rode my CX bike yesterday out on the trails and am feeling it today in my upper back. One little thing that helps a lot with me when riding without full suspension is to take a short rest of several minutes every so often, so those smooth muscles that support the lower back can recharge and relax.

A suspension seat post did help me a lot in the past, but it is really an energy sucking device because it moves up and down, damping your energy, unless you pedal really smooth circles. A full suspension bike is probably more efficient than a suspension seat post on a hard tail.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

Velobike said:


> I sympathise with your Brooks experience, there's nothing worse than the wrong saddle. Brooks do have a saddle for every shape and size though


Brooks saddles suck

not every saddle fits everyone, and heavy is not a winner either


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

jeffscott said:


> Brooks saddles suck
> 
> not every saddle fits everyone, and heavy is not a winner either


My wife has a Brooks that weighs less than most WTB saddles.

C13.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

jeffscott said:


> Brooks saddles suck
> 
> not every saddle fits everyone, and heavy is not a winner either


I mentioned them in the context of a suspension seatpost. The weight of a suspension seatpost plus saddle isn't far off an ordinary seatpost and a sprung seat.

I wasn't implying that the Brooks fit everyone, but seeing as they have a range of different sizes and shapes, there's a good chance of finding one that fits.



J.B. Weld said:


> ...Athletic racers use similar riding positions because that's what works best for going fast. IME when you're really hammering you can't always afford the extra energy required to unweight the saddle in every situation, which is one of the reasons full suspension bikes now rule the roost.


I don't argue with that but I doubt you'll find many that fit the "athletic racer" physique in the 50+ group though. There will be some, and a larger group that wish they were.

I think in terms of protecting my aged body rather than maximising speed though these days. Too much good luck in too many high speed crashes have made me wary - maybe the next one is the stopper.


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## azjeff (Jun 3, 2006)

Velobike, 2 questions..

1. Where exactly does a person go to test Brooks saddles? Maybe in Scotland but they're not exactly thick on the ground in the States.

2. What posture are you promoting? A racer posture leaned over the bars or upright cruiser posture? The older I get the more upright I want/need to be. Good for lower back pain but bad for direct hits on the spine if I were riding a rigid bike. Upright + FS + 27.5/3.0s will keep me riding into the sunset....


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

azjeff said:


> Velobike, 2 questions..
> 
> 1. Where exactly does a person go to test Brooks saddles? Maybe in Scotland but they're not exactly thick on the ground in the States.
> 
> 2. What posture are you promoting? A racer posture leaned over the bars or upright cruiser posture? The older I get the more upright I want/need to be. Good for lower back pain but bad for direct hits on the spine if I were riding a rigid bike. Upright + FS + 27.5/3.0s will keep me riding into the sunset....


Check out Jenson's prices and weights...

Watch out for wet weather and leather.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

azjeff said:


> Velobike, 2 questions..
> 
> 1. Where exactly does a person go to test Brooks saddles? Maybe in Scotland but they're not exactly thick on the ground in the States.
> 
> 2. What posture are you promoting? A racer posture leaned over the bars or upright cruiser posture? The older I get the more upright I want/need to be. Good for lower back pain but bad for direct hits on the spine if I were riding a rigid bike. Upright + FS + 27.5/3.0s will keep me riding into the sunset....


1. Good point. I grew up with Brooks saddles, so I know what to expect. Maybe the best place to start is by finding out the spacing of your Ischial Tuberosities (pointy bum bones) and working from there to get your saddle width. There's various methods of doing this. Sitting on a bit of soft crushable foam is one way.

2. If you're getting direct hits on your spine with an upright riding position, you're either not upright enough or your saddle is too low. Aim to have your posterior floating just above the saddle with minimal weight on it and all your weight on the pedals. The saddle is used mainly for lateral support rather than vertical. You may find this tiring initially because you'll be using core muscles that you haven't been using, but after a week or two, it will seem natural. (What I mean by upright is in comparison to an xc riding position.)

I do find it difficult to do this if I run a lower gear than necessary - possibly because most of my riding has been single speed. I use a hard saddle on my race bike, no chamois, and experience no discomfort.

I reckon a racer posture is optimal for getting the power down IF (and only if) you are slim, athletic and flexible. I'm not any of those despite being able to run 6 miles cross-country without too much trouble or do a 24 hour stint in a race on the bike.

My theory that getting your weight off the saddle* is better for older bodies is not popular in some quarters, but then I'm still riding 24 hour races on a rigid bike in my 70s, and I believe I'm able do this because I started taking care to reduce cumulative and repetitive injuries once I hit my 40s.

The biggest problem we have as we age is that there's very little research been done into the effect of offroad cycling on our bodies. Most of what has been done applies more to improving performance for competition rather than the avoidance of repetitive injury and sustainability of our bodies into old age.

*For mtb. Road is different because it's smooth.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Velobike said:


> I don't argue with that but I doubt you'll find many that fit the "athletic racer" physique in the 50+ group though. There will be some, and a larger group that wish they were.


I haven't given up just yet. I ride an xc style bike with a typical setup and for myself it's a natural and comfortable position for my riding style. I do get out of the saddle for most of the rough stuff but as mentioned not all of it and IME a good suspension post definitely can have it's place.

Weirdly enough I've had serious lower back issues for years but riding in an xc position has never exasperated it, if anything I can usually ride OK even if I can barely walk. I'm on a hardtail now and using a carbon post.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

J.B. Weld said:


> I haven't given up just yet. I ride an xc style bike with a typical setup and for myself it's a natural and comfortable position for my riding style. I do get out of the saddle for most of the rough stuff but as mentioned not all of it and IME a good suspension post definitely can have it's place.
> 
> Weirdly enough I've had serious lower back issues for years but riding in an xc position has never exasperated it, if anything I can usually ride OK even if I can barely walk. I'm on a hardtail now and using a carbon post.


I have you down as one of the fit ones. 

I realise I have been too wordy. I think I've been off the bike for too long, recovering from leg injury which has been preventing my usual volume of riding, so only doing little rides.

All that I really needed to say on this issue is any device or technique or riding style which prevents you getting whacked at the base of your spine is better than one that doesn't.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Velobike said:


> I realise I have been too wordy.


No worries here, I appreciate your contributions.


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## azjeff (Jun 3, 2006)

Velobike said:


> I realise I have been too wordy. I think I've been off the bike for too long, recovering from leg injury which has been preventing my usual volume of riding, so only doing little rides.


It's OK, we give our elders a little slack....


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