# The "Perfect" Setup



## Fleas (Jan 19, 2006)

Don't listen to me.
I only know what I know.
I'm not a ride a coach.
I'm not a suspension guru.

...but I think I had the perfect set-up _today_.

10 miles of rooty singletrack. No sustained DH's or climbs.

My fork settings have remained unchanged all year (130mm Pike Select. Soooo good.)
XL 2018 Nimble 9
Rider weight: 190# + light pack + 1 water bottle.
I was "gettin' after it today" in the turns, and riding light on the straights.

Tire pressure? Unknown.
...but none of that matters.

The point is, this set-up has been "really good" on several trails. It has also been "really good" at various tire pressures.
But it's never been "perfect".

Today it was perfect.

I could feel it. I could feel the tires getting out of the way of the many roots (1000 turns and 1000 roots is how I describe this trail). 2psi more, and I'd be feeling every root. 1psi less, and I'd likely have dented rims.
I could feel the tires sticking to everything. Yes, I nearly washed out on some dry "brown ice" oak leaves, but I didn't.
I could feel the fork working to keep the _rear_ tire planted, as the bike see-sawed across root gardens. "Heavy feet, light hands" is a real thing. It keeps things in balance.

If I go to a smoother, faster trail, I need higher tire pressure to keep the tires in shape on those high-G berms.

If I ride slower, I need to slow down the fork a little. Maybe soften it up a tad. I've been trying desperately to ride at somewhat consistent speeds - at least where the suspension fork mattered.

I need to be able to pedal across those root gardens. For me it only seems possible if I'm pushing a bigger gear. I can't spin across roots. There is a harmonic frequency where if pedaling matches the small bumps, I lose a ton of forward efficiency. If my cadence is ~1/2(?) the bump frequency, I seem to be able to lay down more power to the ground, without skipping the rear tire around. I can't do _that_ unless I'm in shape. By this point in the season, I'm finally there - I can pedal, with the dropper down, over extended root gardens and through many linked turns without coasting - conserving valuable momentum for, literally, miles on end.

Yeah, my fork settings matter to _me_. They do nothing for you.
My tire pressure matters to me. It does nothing for you.
My fitness has finally caught up with my riding style. ...which does nothing for you.
My style is probly not your style.

Moral of the story - my numbers don't matter to you. They don't matter to anyone.
Get in touch with the _feel_, then find _your_ numbers. Those are the only numbers that matter.

-F


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## HEMIjer (Jul 17, 2008)

Gotta love those rides when everything just feels like it is working together including the engine.

What ties and rim combo running?

Do you fell BB too low with 130mm on the Nimble 9?


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## SSsteel4life (Jul 1, 2016)

Well written! You have one of the ideal Gen nimble 9 as well! Gen 3 and 4 are the best all arounders in my opinion. Wish I would have picked one up. I have the Gen 2, but it is a little to compact now for my liking. Still fun as heck thou! Then the latest Gen went a little to far, especially on SA.


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## Gumby_rider (Apr 18, 2017)

Right on. If it feels good then it prob is good.


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## HEMIjer (Jul 17, 2008)

SSsteel4life said:


> Well written! You have one of the ideal Gen nimble 9 as well! Gen 3 and 4 are the best all arounders in my opinion. Wish I would have picked one up. I have the Gen 2, but it is a little to compact now for my liking. Still fun as heck thou! Then the latest Gen went a little to far, especially on SA.


I love the Steep STA on my Yelli with a 130mm Helm. Does make seated reach seem a little shorter than expected but is so nice combined with short chainstays on steep climbs.


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## SSsteel4life (Jul 1, 2016)

HEMIjer said:


> I love the Steep STA on my Yelli with a 130mm Helm. Does make seated reach seem a little shorter than expected but is so nice combined with short chainstays on steep climbs.


Sure some people get along with it, yes helps on steep climbs. Why was talking, imo just better all arounders the older nimble 9 where. The Yelli is at least meant to be forked at 130MM. The Nimble 9 is 77 at 150, start lowering the fork on the latest nimble 9 to make it a more all-arounder and gets even steeper. Also just initial sag between a 150 and 130 will make the nimble 9 start out steeper SA at Sag as well. All depends on your terrain and how your Tibia and Femur are built also. How my legs are built, my knees will scream with to steep of a seat tube angle . My knees get way to forward over the pedal spindle to be comfortable on the long rides I like to perform. I seriously wanted a Yelli since was built around 130, but it needed to have sliding dropouts. I would have run it single speed with a set back seat post and ripped it!


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## Smartattack (8 mo ago)

Sick post...Thread requires no replies.


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## Fleas (Jan 19, 2006)

SSsteel4life said:


> Well written! You have one of the ideal Gen nimble 9 as well! Gen 3 and 4 are the best all arounders in my opinion. Wish I would have picked one up. I have the Gen 2, but it is a little to compact now for my liking. Still fun as heck thou! Then the latest Gen went a little to far, especially on SA.


SPOT-ON!

-F


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## Fleas (Jan 19, 2006)

HEMIjer said:


> Gotta love those rides when everything just feels like it is working together including the engine.
> 
> What ties and rim combo running?
> 
> Do you fell BB too low with 130mm on the Nimble 9?


Hunt Trailwide Wheels
DHF 2.5/Ardent 2.4

For the 2017/2018 N9, I think 130-140 is the sweet spot (I had a 500mm rigid fork for a long time). I like rocks like PA and NY have, so I don't like a low BB. If you get a later N9, I think you need to go 150.

If I can find another '17/'18 XL frame I will probably try to buy it.

-F


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