# I need Help rebuilding a 2000 trek 6500 ZX



## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

So a friend of mine gave me his old bike for helping him his new one, its 2000 Trek 6500 ZX in trek red, the bike is missing the front wheel, the crank or BB is broken and missing something, the rear derailleur cable was fraying, im sure the fork will need to be taken apart and the oil replaced and some seal or parts replaced or maybe a new fork for it.

here are the bike specs according to bikepedia:

Bicycle Type	Mountain bike, front suspension
Sugg Retail	$799.99
Weight	Unspecified
Sizes	Large, medium, small
Colors	Pearl Blue, Trek Red

Frame & Fork
Frame Construction	TIG-welded
Frame Tubing Material	Alpha ZX aluminum
Fork Brand & Model	Rock Shox Judy XC, 2.5"-4.0" adjustable travel
Fork Material	Aluminum/magnesium, triple-clamp crown
Rear Shock	Not applicable

Components
Component Group	Mountain Mix
Brakeset	Aluminum linear-pull brakes, aluminum linear-pull levers
Shift Levers	Shimano Deore
Front Derailleur	Shimano Deore
Rear Derailleur	Shimano Deore LX SGS
Crankset	ICON Obsidian, 22/32/44 teeth
Pedals	Alloy clipless adaptable
Bottom Bracket	Unspecified
BB Shell Width	Unspecified
Rear Cogs	9-speed, 11 - 32 teeth
Chain	1/2 x 3/32"
Seatpost	Alloy
Saddle	Bontrager FS 2000
Handlebar	Alloy riser
Handlebar Extensions	Not included
Handlebar Stem	Alloy
Headset	Aheadset SE-1

Wheels
Hubs	Alloy
Rims	Bontrager Corvair, 32-hole
Tires	Front: 26 x 2.10" Bontrager Jones, Rear: 26 x 1.95" Bontrager Jones
Spoke Brand	Stainless steel, 2.0mm
Spoke Nipples	Unspecified

this is what i need, to get the bike usable again

front wheel and tire ( or you could recomend a rear tire for a sandy florida trail)
crankset or bottom bracket ( im not sure if just the bottom braket or the crankset is broken, here is a pic of the broken part








and i will also need a rear deraillure cable

my main question is what bottom bracket can i use with that crank? since im pretty sure the bottom bracket is what is broken

also what size hex wrench do i need to take the crank off?

thanx for the help in advance


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## Bikinfoolferlife (Feb 3, 2004)

What's broken about the bottom bracket? Pic doesn't show anything that I can see. It's probably a square taper crank and you can review installation/removal info here and see what kind of tools are involved http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94

For a wheel you might check with a local shop, or look at our sponsor BicycleWheelWarehouse.com...


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*Looks to me...*



Bikinfoolferlife said:


> What's broken about the bottom bracket? Pic doesn't show anything that I can see. It's probably a square taper crank and you can review installation/removal info here and see what kind of tools are involved http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94
> 
> For a wheel you might check with a local shop, or look at our sponsor BicycleWheelWarehouse.com...


It looks to me like the OP is missing the non-drive side cup from the BB. It's hard to tell from the picture, though.

A description of what the problem is would be much more helpful than telling us "it's broken".

Assuming that the BB is the problem, you can probably replace it for $30 or so.

The allen wrench size to remove your cranks is likely an 8 or 10 mm.


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## Bikinfoolferlife (Feb 3, 2004)

Ken in KC said:


> It looks to me like the OP is missing the non-drive side cup from the BB. It's hard to tell from the picture, though.
> 
> A description of what the problem is would be much more helpful than telling us "it's broken".
> 
> ...


I just couldn't tell for sure, just seemed odd the crankarm is on there if it's missing a cup; hopefully no one rode it that way if it's missing the cup...


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## ae111black (Dec 27, 2008)

+1 on the missing cup..... Woah! I'd measure your BB Shell and go to a LBS and see if they have a parts bin with an extra cup.... they might even give it to you....


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*But...*



ae111black said:


> +1 on the missing cup..... Woah! I'd measure your BB Shell and go to a LBS and see if they have a parts bin with an extra cup.... they might even give it to you....


What Bikin' Fool's getting at is that if the bike has been ridden without the cup, the BB shell/threads are likely toast. And that's bad.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

BB shell definately has that "chamfered" look to it , I would suggest that your LBS or someone qualified have a look at it to give you a quick assessment of the BB .


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## Bikinfoolferlife (Feb 3, 2004)

AZ.MTNS said:


> BB shell definately has that "chamfered" look to it , I would suggest that your LBS or someone qualified have a look at it to give you a quick assessment of the BB .


Now that you mention it, don't like the abrasion on the inner part of the crank arm...could definitely explain the "broken" part if it's been rubbing! Like Ken says, I'd wonder about the bb shell altogether...


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## ae111black (Dec 27, 2008)

Wow I see it now yah that shell is messed up! Yah nevermind trying to fix it get down to your favorite LBS and have them look at it!


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

well i took it to my regular LBS and they just said the bike was too old and they wont even look at it, instead the recomended i trashed it adn bought a new one from them.

the threads in the bb Shell Look good, the threads on the BB are stripped ill try to take some pics tomorrow when i get a hex wrench big enough to take the crank out


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*Find a different shop...*



Brujo said:


> well i took it to my regular LBS and they just said the bike was too old and they wont even look at it, instead the recomended i trashed it adn bought a new one from them.
> 
> the threads in the bb Shell Look good, the threads on the BB are stripped ill try to take some pics tomorrow when i get a hex wrench big enough to take the crank out


The bike isn't too old. I'd find a different shop.

You can tell that the threads on the shell are fine but the threads on the BB is stripped whith the BB installed in the shell? Do you have x-ray vision?


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Find another shop .


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## Bikinfoolferlife (Feb 3, 2004)

Too old? I can understand damage beyond repair analysis, but no analysis at all? Shop doesn't sound too hot to me, either. Would be interested in seeing the extent of damage, perhaps you can still do something with this one, always nice to have a second ride around.

You'll probably need more tools than a hex wrench to take the cranks off as well as take the bottom bracket out of the shell. Try parktool.com repair help section to see the procedure and kinds of tools....


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

well i got the hex but apparently i also need a crank remover tool and some other oold to fix it,im gonna try another LBS tomorrow and see what they tell me


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## Bikinfoolferlife (Feb 3, 2004)

Brujo said:


> well i got the hex but apparently i also need a crank remover tool and some other oold to fix it,im gonna try another LBS tomorrow and see what they tell me


You could check on the Florida forum for shop suggestions in your area...err, Southeast forum...


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## Bikinfoolferlife (Feb 3, 2004)

Curious, what bike did they sell you?


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

at first they recomended i buy a new 6500 for $1100, when i told them i didnt have that kinda of money and they asked how much i was willing to spend i told them no more than $400 the recomended a 3500 or a gary fisher tarpon they had on sale for $399


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

Ken in KC said:


> The bike isn't too old. I'd find a different shop.
> 
> You can tell that the threads on the shell are fine but the threads on the BB is stripped whith the BB installed in the shell? Do you have x-ray vision?


no x-ray vision, but you can see the threads where the cup is missing on the other side the cupp that is attached to the bottom bracket that slides out and with the othet cup being missinh is comes out far enought to see the tbb shell threads and i can see they are in good shape but the BB cup looks stripped.

from my friend the nfo i got was that he was at the trail nd heard something crack he checked everything and he didnt see anything then he said as he was getting home he felt something break and the crank wobble, he just kept riding until he got home, the next weekend he bought a nother bike and used this one for parts as the new bke started needing replacements.


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## BoostCrzy (Jan 23, 2010)

where are you located?....and what shop was it?..


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## Bikinfoolferlife (Feb 3, 2004)

Brujo said:


> at first they recomended i buy a new 6500 for $1100, when i told them i didnt have that kinda of money and they asked how much i was willing to spend i told them no more than $400 the recomended a 3500 or a gary fisher tarpon they had on sale for $399


Okay, so what did you buy?


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

im in Tampa Fl, the shop was Temple Terrace Schwinn


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

Bikinfoolferlife said:


> Okay, so what did you buy?


i didnt buy anything, i wann get this bike fixed, if that cant happen at that point ill end up looking for another bike


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## Bikinfoolferlife (Feb 3, 2004)

Brujo said:


> i didnt buy anything, i wann get this bike fixed, if that cant happen at that point ill end up looking for another bike


Guess I misunderstood this part "instead the recomended i trashed it adn bought a new one from them" While the spelling/grammar is pretty bad thought it pretty much said you took the shop's word for it and bought another bike. What's really going on?


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## ataylor (Dec 28, 2009)

judging by your pic. It looks like the crank arm is galled with aluminum. Also that tapered look of the BB and the fact you said it is stripped backed up by the other issues you listed I would say better to look for another bike.


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

whats going on is that im on a budget.

i got this bike from a friend as "payment" for fixing his current bike (changed tube and tire in rear wheel, adjust rear deraillure and brake, changed pedals)

this was his old bike, he doesnt have a car and rides his bikes everywhere but he is also not mechanicaly inclined and he just rides his bike until they break and then buys a new one.

since he knows im good with took and fixing stuff, he gave me this bike in the hopes that i could fix it and then he would have a riding partnet for the local trails.

id like the bike the bike working again, im good at fixing things, but i lack the special tools for bicycles.

im gonna have to find a shop that will at the very least take a look at the bike and see if it can be replaired.

from what i can see, the bb shell may need to be rethreaded, ill definetely need a new bottom braket, ill need a new cable for the rear derraillure, and a new front wheel and tire


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## ataylor (Dec 28, 2009)

thats my point. I cant imagine a shop, if they would do it at all, charging under $60 to tap and face that. Issue being the needed metal is missing, so its going to be prone to failing if rode hard. So say $60 plus $20 for a BB, you still need a wheel, that chain doesnt look great and then you can start seeing what else it needs. All for a bike that may snap the BB if you pedal standing up. Your money will go much further on craigslist looking for a used bike I would think.


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

so lets see:

$60 for the tap and face
$20 for the bb
$40 for the front wheel ( this is their cheap aluminum front wheels)
lets say $20 for the cable
i have a front tire already
and $7 for a tube

so thats $147+tax = 157.29

as long as the tap and face in done correctly, i wouldnt mind spending the $160 as i will end up with a better bike that if i try to by one for that price.


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## ataylor (Dec 28, 2009)

actually for $69 you can just buy a brand new frame from Performance.


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*I don't understand*



Brujo said:


> no x-ray vision, but you can see the threads where the cup is missing on the other side the cupp that is attached to the bottom bracket that slides out and with the othet cup being missinh is comes out far enought to see the tbb shell threads and i can see they are in good shape but the BB cup looks stripped.
> 
> from my friend the nfo i got was that he was at the trail nd heard something crack he checked everything and he didnt see anything then he said as he was getting home he felt something break and the crank wobble, he just kept riding until he got home, the next weekend he bought a nother bike and used this one for parts as the new bke started needing replacements.


The bottom bracket slides in and out of the BB shell? And the non drive side cup is missing? I still don't see how you can determine that the BB shell threads are in good condition.

The BB is moving only as much as your cranks will allow it to move. I'm don't recall which side of the bike is supposed to have the permanent cup (fixed to the BB) but on your bike it's the drive side. And the BB moves side to side within the shell based on your description above. Which tells me that it's likely that there's at least some damage to the threads of the BB shell. I couldn't tell without removing the BB and chasing the threads. I'm confused on how you can make the determination that the shell is okay?


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Whether or not the BB shell threads are damaged doesn't have to be a big deal. I can't remember where I saw it, but I ran across a universal bottom bracket online. Sort of like a press-fit BB, but designed for the same shell size as an English-threaded (like yours) BB. I kicked myself in the ass, because I'd just thrown out a frame that had the French threading.

Personally, I'd expect the threads in the shell to be damaged. They're not that big, and aluminum is easily damaged when it comes to small things like that. So find a different shop, and ask about a universal bottom bracket. If you can't get one, it's not necessarily the end of the world. Retapping should only take a correctly-sized tap set - you can do it yourself, or get a shop that wants to stay in business to take care of it for you.

If you go the repair-the-threads route, it's likely that the BB shell won't be as strong anymore, and you might get some creaking or something. I wouldn't expect it to fail catastrophically - just make noise, and maybe keep damaging the threads until the cups/retaining rings won't stay in anymore.

If you order the $69 frame from Performance, you'll get something that's at least competitive with the frame you have now, and still save some money - you ought to be able to transfer most of your parts over. It'll definitely be less than the $400 you're considering on a new bike. You can use the left-over money to make a few upgrades in important spots and have something that's lots of fun to ride.

Is the front wheel broken or all the way gone? You might save some money building a new wheel on the old hub if you or your friend have it and it's in good shape. And a new suspension fork within your budget is likely to be better than the one that's on there (or you could just ride the hell out of the current one.)

You've got nice drivetrain components that are compatible with the best that Shimano offers now, so you're in pretty good shape there as long as they haven't been abused. Check the chain, rings and cogs, though.


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

the wheel is just plain gone, apparently my friend bent the one in his current bike so he just took the one from this one.

ive been looking for the press fir bbs, ill have to look some more. im thinking im gonna try and find a shop that will rethread the current bb shell, or try to find a bsa tap so i can rethread it my self, ive had goos results fixing stripped thread on aluminum with jb weld im sure i can do it on this if i can find a BB tap or someone to lend me one


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## bbrins (Nov 2, 2009)

> ive been looking for the press fir bbs, ill have to look some more. im thinking im gonna try and find a shop that will rethread the current bb shell, or try to find a bsa tap so i can rethread it my self, ive had goos results fixing stripped thread on aluminum with jb weld im sure i can do it on this if i can find a BB tap or someone to lend me one


If you can't find a shop that is willing to attempt to re-thread it for you, I seriously doubt that you will find someone willing to loan you a $400-$500 tool that is easily messed up if not used properly.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

$500 tool my butt.

I think this is it.

http://www.hermanscentral.com/product/qual-tech-13824-high-speed-steel-tap-13577.cfm?sid=google

It looks like you only need it for the non-drive side. Double-check it, but I think the non-drive side is threaded normally.

I wouldn't even think of trying to tap a new bottom bracket this way, but you often only have to chase the threads if they're damaged but present. Of course, it might not work and you'd be out $90.

So I guess that brings us back to a universal or self-aligning bottom bracket.

You could also just try installing a new bottom bracket and see if all this is even an issue. I'd anticipate some creaking because some of the threads are gone, but if it's a steel retaining ring on the BB, since the bike is aluminum you might get away with it.


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

Thanx Andrw

tomorrow im taking the bike on a the round to every bike shop near me, hopefully i will find someone that will repair it for a decent price, othewise im already looking at the press fit bb, but i cant seem to find one that works for my bike or the have denomitation i cant understand like bb30 or bb86/90.

also is there a press fit bb that will work with a square taper crank? or are they just for special cranks?

maybe im not looking right but ive google press fit bottom brackets on google and it only finds some shimano or sram gpx pressfit pnes that need a certain crank


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

also another thing i thougt of was maybe having them rethread the bb shel for the larger Italian thread nad just getting an italian BB and be done. but ill have to see if they can do it first


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## ataylor (Dec 28, 2009)

AndrwSwitch said:


> $500 tool my butt.
> 
> I think this is it.
> 
> ...


Wrong tap, not going to chase threads that are not there, in metal that is missing. Plus that tap is STILL more than buying a brand new frame.

Please post up how that JB Weld works out for you.


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## Bikinfoolferlife (Feb 3, 2004)

Brujo said:


> Thanx Andrw
> 
> tomorrow im taking the bike on a the round to every bike shop near me, hopefully i will find someone that will repair it for a decent price, othewise im already looking at the press fit bb, but i cant seem to find one that works for my bike or the have denomitation i cant understand like bb30 or bb86/90.
> 
> ...


You looking for something like this http://www.velo-orange.com/grcruthbobr.html ?


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

YES!!! thats what i needed to look for THREADLESS, thats what i need i think since basically that saves me the labor of having the frame tapped it makes even less costly than having to get the frame repaired and buying a new BB


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*Not very good advice...*



AndrwSwitch said:


> $500 tool my butt.
> 
> I think this is it.
> 
> ...


1 3/8" 8/24 standard thread pitch isn't going to allow you to tap out a metric reverse thread shell.

We really don't have enough information from the OP and he's guessing at what the problem is. We're all guessing further based on his guesses.

IF the BB shell is stripped, then the bike is fairly hosed. A threadless BB could work. It's not optimal but it could work.

We don't know what's, if anything is wrong with the bike. The cranks aren't off, the BB isn't removed. It's all a bunch of guess based on poor information and guesses.


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

ok so i got the crank remover and took the crank and the BB out and took some pics

here is the BB

















this is the drive side of the BB shell









and the non drive side









there are some threads left on the drive side , but i dont think there is enough to chase and rethread, what i was looking at before i took the crank and bb out was the threads that are left further inside the bb shell and from looking at the BB the thread wouldnts reach far enough to the good threads left in the shell.

the non drive side is a lil chanfered but there are still enought threads to try to get a BB cup to thread in there.

at this point i believe that my best bet is to get a threadless BB.

what do you guys think?


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Consider a new frame in the intrests of reliability and longetivity .


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*Question...*



Brujo said:


> ok so i got the crank remover and took the crank and the BB out and took some pics
> 
> here is the BB
> 
> ...


It's hard to tell thread depth based on the picture but I assume that the threads are worn down to the point where they won't hold a BB?

If it were me, I'd consider a new frame. The threadless BB will be your best option for this frame.


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

I disassembled and increased travel on the fork, went from 63mm to 100mm, since these forks had the adjustable travel it was easy, cleaned all the parts in the piston and filled it wil some bel-ray 5wt fork oil.

ordered the threadless bb yesterday so hopefully it will be here on monday or tuesday and i can get this bike back on the trails.


i will post some pics once the bb arrives and i get the front wheel, i also need to get some cable and housing for the rear derrailur and brakes


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## GiddyHitch (Dec 1, 2009)

Cool! :thumbsup: I love seeing these rebuild threads.


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## Brujo (Jan 21, 2010)

the bottom bracket is in, new cables all around, now just having problem adjusting the front derrailure soit reaches the biggest chainring. pics comming soon since my camera is traveling right now


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