# Frustrated! Lube question - Pedros Ice Wax 2.0



## weekendthrasher (Jul 26, 2011)

*Pedros Ice Wax 2.0 -- moved from frustrated to IMPRESSED! see page 2*

After costing me a brand new chain, let's see if I've got this right. This stuff doesn't seem to last more than 1 ride, and given a typical ride for me is 1-2 hours with squeaks mid-ride, it's feeling like the longevity of one application is HALF a ride (for me practically speaking)! Am I doing/understanding something wrong here? For this lube to work, I have to clean the chain after EVERY ride, and lube the chain after EVERY ride? IF that's true, anybody have any better alternatives (still environmentally safe?) with some reasonable longevity? Or ... does "apply liberally" for this product mean "drown the chain in this or it simply won't work after 10 minutes of riding"?

I ride in all kinds of conditions (dry, mud, wet, snow), but mostly dry/dusty. Appreciate any help.


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## Aaron D (Dec 14, 2005)

rock n roll


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## TobyGadd (Sep 9, 2009)

Boeshield T-9 has worked well for me (although it's not very green). So has Squirt (which I think is pretty green). Apply the night before riding.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

weekendthrasher said:


> After costing me a brand new chain, let's see if I've got this right. This stuff doesn't seem to last more than 1 ride, and given a typical ride for me is 1-2 hours with squeaks mid-ride, it's feeling like the longevity of one application is HALF a ride (for me practically speaking)! Am I doing/understanding something wrong here? For this lube to work, I have to clean the chain after EVERY ride, and lube the chain after EVERY ride? IF that's true, anybody have any better alternatives (still environmentally safe?) with some reasonable longevity? Or ... does "apply liberally" for this product mean "drown the chain in this or it simply won't work after 10 minutes of riding"?
> 
> I ride in all kinds of conditions (dry, mud, wet, snow), but mostly dry/dusty. Appreciate any help.


Works for me...If I remember correctly the "Wax" is in solution with ethyl alcohol...your apply and let it soak in then wipe off the excess....no need to clean the chain...

I bought it first cause I thought it was for Ice and snow etc.....That is the only time I use it, seems to seal out the crap pretty good....but seems to be a little "thick" for summer riding.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

weekendthrasher said:


> After costing me a brand new chain, let's see if I've got this right. This stuff doesn't seem to last more than 1 ride, and given a typical ride for me is 1-2 hours with squeaks mid-ride, it's feeling like the longevity of one application is HALF a ride (for me practically speaking)! Am I doing/understanding something wrong here? For this lube to work, I have to clean the chain after EVERY ride, and lube the chain after EVERY ride? IF that's true, anybody have any better alternatives (still environmentally safe?) with some reasonable longevity? Or ... does "apply liberally" for this product mean "drown the chain in this or it simply won't work after 10 minutes of riding"?
> 
> I ride in all kinds of conditions (dry, mud, wet, snow), but mostly dry/dusty. Appreciate any help.


Dry lubes typically work best in dry conditions, and have to be applied before hand of course, wet lubes typically work well in wet conditions, and attract more junk. Dumonde Tech is kind of in-between, a "polymer-based" lube that should still be applied ahead of time, but it seems to span both areas and if applied ahead of time, doesn't attract much junk either. As soon as your "dry lube" is exposed to a creek crossing or a little mud, it usually becomes ineffective pretty fast. Wet lube can make it look gunky as heck, but works better in these situations. Best is to carry a little bottle of wet lube with you (they make the little sample-sizes and these are perfect, in fact, just fill it up with some mobile 1 synthetic or something, doesn't need to be anything special).


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## ProjectDan35 (Jul 19, 2010)

Chain L No. 5

End of story. Lasts multiple rides, but does take a bit more effort to apply.


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## Tystevens (Nov 2, 2011)

T9 works for me. Seems to last multiple rides, my chain stays much cleaner than it was with Triflow.


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## motopail (Jul 29, 2008)

Yea... I tried the Pedro's Ice Wax also.

I could get 8 miles before my chain was noisy. And I don't do mud.


So I went to the reviews and ended up with Prolink.... Runs clean.


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## mtbzarg (Oct 6, 2011)

Aaron D said:


> rock n roll


+1

It's the best!


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## Bokchoicowboy (Aug 7, 2007)

I have tried most of the Dry or Wax base lubes and have never been happy with their performance or longevity. It just does not seem to get in between the plates of the chain links as well as the wetter lubes. I have had good luck with the Finish Line dry lube (red bottle), as it seems to be a bit "wetter" than the other dry lubes. The F.L. wet lube (green bottle) is pretty good, but not too much different than Triflow, which is an old standard I return to a lot. I just make sure that after I soak the chain in any lube I wipe off everything I can, since any visible lube only catches dirt and crud and does nothing else.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Finish line teflon dry here, can go 40+ miles no squeaking.


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## Spec7 (May 3, 2000)

Another vote for Boeshield T-9 here. Been using it for years after using Tri-Flow, Pedro's ICE wax, Finish Line Teflon and a few others. The T-9 has been the longest lasting and most dependable, though the most expensive as well.


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## weekendthrasher (Jul 26, 2011)

*ice wax chemical smell?*

in the past i've lubed my bike with the ice wax 2.0 in the driveway. was not intentional, it's just the way it's worked out. the reason i bring this up is i finally got around this past weekend to setting aside some working area in the garage for our bikes. so ... lubed in the garage last night, with cardboard underneath to catch any excess flow. opening the garage this morning to get the car almost knocked me over with the chemical smell. i had never come across this before. is this common? particular to this lube or does Finish Line wet have similar after effect? how long does it last?

is it proper (better?) protocol to just lube at the trail after a ride?


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## manabiker (Jul 18, 2010)

Finish Line Ceramic Wax works great for me in all conditions, it keeps things CLEAN, last a couple rides, I guess its green, easy to use, no chance of overspray to brakes.


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## weekendthrasher (Jul 26, 2011)

do you degrease the chain to clean it before relubing, or just rub dry with a clean towel then relube, or just relube as needed without any prep for chain?


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## manabiker (Jul 18, 2010)

I just relube with Finish Line Ceramic Wax, lube, let set a few minutes, wipe with rag, reapply after a few rides, I haven't tested it to see how long I can go before it squeeks, I have gone 50 miles or so though with no squeeks. I live in Michigan and ride in all conditions. I clean the cassette with a Park brush once a month or so. People who see my driveline always ask what I use.


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## OneEyeMan (Sep 1, 2005)

Here's all you need to know about chain lubing:
- buy one of those cheap plastic clamp on chain cleaner things
- buy ProLink chain lube
Use them regularly.
ProLink cleans and lubes the chain, and totally dries.
Doesn't attract any dirt.
I strain the dirty ProLink after use using a funnel and a wadded up piece of rag stuffed in it.
Pretty much lasts forever this way.
I've also used Boeshield which is quite good also.
Lenny


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## weekendthrasher (Jul 26, 2011)

understood, and ProLink appears to be well recommended. some confusion with respect to wax based lubes on my part. since it runs clean some say there's no need to degrease before relubing, just wipe chain clean. while others have told me it needs to be degreased to get rid of any wax coating still on the chain to properly absorb new wax based lube. i'm just trying to straighten this out so i can give the lube an honest-go for my personal experience of gauging how it works for me ... before switching to ProLink or Finish Line wet.


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## natrat (Mar 20, 2008)

i like the wax as it definitely runs cleaner. I try to reapply the night before every ride and degrease every 3rd or 4th ride because by then it's noticeably less smooth.


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## dhmtbj (Jul 31, 2009)

weekendthrasher, sorry to hear about your frustrating experience with Ice Wax 2.0. My name is Jay and I am the product manager and engineer at Pedro's. Hopefully I can help you get the most of out your Ice Wax 2.0. First, I want to make sure you don't have one of the bad bottles of Ice Wax 2.0 from a batch of bad Ice Wax 2.0 we had in 2010 that thickened over time due to improper manufacturing causing reactions with the natural ingredients. If you think you have a bottle from this batch we are happy to replace it. The correct formula is pretty thin and was designed this way for two reasons. The first is to help Ice Wax 2.0 penetrate into the chain where it is needed. The second is that Ice Wax 2.0 has a detergent action when applied and binds with contaminants and then helps push them out of the chain. Assuming you have the correct, thinner formula, please try the following approach:

1.	Degrease your chain and let dry.
2.	Apply Ice Wax 2.0 to the rollers of the chain (directly down the center looking from the top). This is the only part of the chain where you want lubricant.
3.	Wait a few minutes to let the lubricant penetrate.
4.	Surround the chain with a rag or towel and wipe away any extra lube from the outside surfaces of the links and the outer roller surfaces. This should leave plenty of lubricant on the internal surfaces of the chain where you want it, and a thin protective layer of lubricant on outer surfaces to help prevent dirt and ingress from reaching the inner surfaces. If there was some dirt or ingress left in the chain after degreasing, you may notice that the rag is a bit dirty after wiping the chain. If this is the case, you can repeat steps 2-4 applying a second lighter coating of lubricant.
5.	Lastly, allow time for the Ice Wax 2.0 to dry and set up on the chain. Ideally, you would lube your chain at least an hour or so before riding, but even 15-30 minutes will help the lubricant set up and help it last longer.
6.	Ride! Ice Wax 2.0 should last for a few mountain bike rides at the very least, but the telling sign is how the chain feels. After letting it set up and before heading out for a ride, touch the chain rollers between your fingers and notice that you can feel the wax on the chain. it should feel just a little tacky. When reapplication is needed, you will no longer feel this coating on the surface of the chain. Assuming you haven’t been riding in extreme mud or rain, you should be able to use steps 2-5 only, no longer needing to degrease as often, using the Ice Wax 2.0 to push out contaminants each time you reapply.

Please let me know if I can help any further!


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## dhmtbj (Jul 31, 2009)

weekendthrasher said:


> in the past i've lubed my bike with the ice wax 2.0 in the driveway. was not intentional, it's just the way it's worked out. the reason i bring this up is i finally got around this past weekend to setting aside some working area in the garage for our bikes. so ... lubed in the garage last night, with cardboard underneath to catch any excess flow. opening the garage this morning to get the car almost knocked me over with the chemical smell. i had never come across this before. is this common? particular to this lube or does Finish Line wet have similar after effect? how long does it last?
> 
> is it proper (better?) protocol to just lube at the trail after a ride?


Ice Wax 2.0 does have a fairly strong fragrance compared to some lubricants but it is the wax that you are smelling and it is harmless. From my experience many other wax lubricants have a strong smell due to the high alcohol content used. Ice Wax 2.0 is water based so you should only be smelling the wax.


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## weekendthrasher (Jul 26, 2011)

*dhmtbj*

greatly appreciate you taking the time to give me the feedback. as you can probably discern, i'm not quick to leave a product until i'm sure i've done it justice. my chain runs clean, but efficiency has been lacking though in all honesty it doesn't look like i maintained it the best way possible for the lube and riding i was doing. however, that being said, i'm doing that now, BUT i wouldn't describe the lube i have as 'thin'. is there a product code range i could check to know whether or not i have one from a bad batch? if not, would you be willing to send me a bottle that you know is current and proper? i live in Toronto, Canada, and just want to be sure. would be fair to describe both mine and my wife's bikes as high-end so would love the peace of mind that i'm not being counterproductive by doing the right things with the wrong bottle per se. i've already had to replace a brand new chain after 2 mths of riding.


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## dhmtbj (Jul 31, 2009)

weekendthrasher said:


> greatly appreciate you taking the time to give me the feedback. as you can probably discern, i'm not quick to leave a product until i'm sure i've done it justice. my chain runs clean, but efficiency has been lacking though in all honesty it doesn't look like i maintained it the best way possible for the lube and riding i was doing. however, that being said, i'm doing that now, BUT i wouldn't describe the lube i have as 'thin'. is there a product code range i could check to know whether or not i have one from a bad batch? if not, would you be willing to send me a bottle that you know is current and proper? i live in Toronto, Canada, and just want to be sure. would be fair to describe both mine and my wife's bikes as high-end so would love the peace of mind that i'm not being counterproductive by doing the right things with the wrong bottle per se. i've already had to replace a brand new chain after 2 mths of riding.


The batch that thickened generally got to the point where it would come out of the bottle like thick mustard or grease. While the correct formula is much lower viscosity than the problem batch, it is still thicker than a typical oil chain lubricant. If possible, please squeeze a small amount onto a table or other similar surface, take a photo, and send it to [email protected]. I should be able to tell you if you have the correct formula and offer further help. Thanks.

Jay


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## Sideknob (Jul 14, 2005)

natrat said:


> i like the wax as it definitely runs cleaner. I try to reapply the night before every ride and degrease every 3rd or 4th ride because by then it's noticeably less smooth.


That's my routine in dry conditions too. I'm running Rock N Roll and Finish Line wax. If it's wet and muddy I clean the chain every ride.


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## weekendthrasher (Jul 26, 2011)

*dhmtbj/Jay*

Jay, that description of thickness ("thick mustard") doesn't sound like it applies to me, but I will send pictures tonight nonetheless. I'd best describe it as looking like skim milk, so sounds like I should be fine and issues are probably borne by less diligence on my part than was required. Again, appreciate the help and look forward to any feedback after I send the pictures.

Regarding your earlier instructions, could you help with some extra details:
1. "Degrease your chain and let dry" -- Would you allow 10 minutes air-dry or fair to assume a few wipes with a towel is sufficient?
3. "Wait a few minutes to let the lubricant penetrate" -- How many times should I cycle the chain backwards after the full chain is lubricated or should I not cycle it at all?
6. "... Assuming you haven't been riding in extreme mud or rain, you should be able to use steps 2-5 only, no longer needing to degrease as often, using the Ice Wax 2.0 to push out contaminants each time you reapply" -- Does this mean aside from wet/muddy conditions, I should be able to simply reapply the lube after a couple rides (in dry/dusty conditions) without degreasing the chain and still get maximum usage? Would degreasing be better or simply wasting money and time if I'm using Ice Wax as my main lube?

Lastly, to be clear, which lube would be better suited to snow/muddy conditions -- Ice Wax or Pedros Synlube or ...?

Thanks for any help.


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## LMN (Sep 8, 2007)

It took me a while to figure out how to use Wax lube. 

1st: Use it in the right conditions. Wax lube is ideal for extremelly dry and dusty conditions where other lubes don't work.

2nd: Lube in generously the night before the ride, this gives the wax a chance to set-up. At that point you can either just ride or put a super light weight lube over top. 

If the conditions are super dry and dusty you don't get a whole ride out of any lube but I find wax seems to last the longest in those conditions.

Don't use wax lube in the wet, it is useless there.


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## weekendthrasher (Jul 26, 2011)

*LMN -- two questions*

LMN, thanks for the feedback on wax lube as I like the clean running it provides and am adjusting to its required maintenance. Two questions for you:
1. Which wet lube do you use for snow/muddy conditions? Just curious.
2. Assuming I use the wax lube through the summer, then convert to a wet lube for winter, are there any issues with changing back to wax the following summer? How hard is it to get the chain clean enough to take the wax lube -- can a simple degreasing (a couple times?) do it or is it going to require something far more extreme? Does the chain stay black after using wet lube such that it becomes too difficult to get it clean enough to properly take the wax lube again and or look as clean as it did when originally using wax lube only?


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## dauber76 (Feb 23, 2006)

Just my two cents....

I use, and prefer, Pedro's Ice Wax to other lubes. It does require you to reapply more often than others, but it seems to keep the chain much cleaner. As mentioned it works best in dry conditions. 

Plenty of options, plenty of opinions, so use what you like.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Have used White Lightning since the mid-90s. Has always worked just fine; I rarely ride more than 20 miles so its perfect, I re-apply as needed, usually every other ride. Chain is clean and free of noise. I don't ride when it is muddy. I love how clean my chain is!


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## Anonymous (Mar 3, 2005)

My girlfriend and I are going to Grease. 
Vasoline is just too expensive.


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## dhmtbj (Jul 31, 2009)

weekendthrasher said:


> Jay, that description of thickness ("thick mustard") doesn't sound like it applies to me, but I will send pictures tonight nonetheless. I'd best describe it as looking like skim milk, so sounds like I should be fine and issues are probably borne by less diligence on my part than was required. Again, appreciate the help and look forward to any feedback after I send the pictures.
> 
> Regarding your earlier instructions, could you help with some extra details:
> 1. "Degrease your chain and let dry" -- Would you allow 10 minutes air-dry or fair to assume a few wipes with a towel is sufficient?
> ...


Sent you an email a minute ago but figured my answers might be helpful to others too.

From your description of "skim milk" and from your photos, I am confident that you have the proper formula. This makes sense as it has been more than 2 years since we had the problem batch. Thank you for taking the time to send the photos and prepare the questions below. Hopefully I can provide you with some useful answers.

1. "Degrease your chain and let dry" -- Would you allow 10 minutes air-dry or fair to assume a few wipes with a towel is sufficient?

This is a great question. The ideal scenario is a chain that is completely free of all degreaser, water, and contaminants. As you could imagine, any degreaser left on the chain will affect new lubricant as it will try to break down the new lubricant. In practice this is difficult to achieve short of using an air compressor to blow dry the chain. I generally take the following approach.
​a. Degrease the chain with Oranj Peelz or Pro J.
​b. Since both of these Pedro's degreasers are water soluble, I rinse the chain well with water to remove as much of the degreaser as possible.
​c. Wrap the chain with a rag focusing pressure on top and bottom of rollers and backpedal until chain appears to be mostly dry.
​d. Then wait 15-30 minutes for the chain to air dry.

3. "Wait a few minutes to let the lubricant penetrate" -- How many times should I cycle the chain backwards after the full chain is lubricated or should I not cycle it at all?

You bring up a good point I forgot to mention. I generally cycling the chain until the lubricant has visually spread over and into the chain. I would guess this takes 5-10 full cycles of the chain but I usually judge this visually by how well the lubricant is penetrating as I cycle the chain.

6. "... Assuming you haven't been riding in extreme mud or rain, you should be able to use steps 2-5 only, no longer needing to degrease as often, using the Ice Wax 2.0 to push out contaminants each time you reapply" -- Does this mean aside from wet/muddy conditions, I should be able to simply reapply the lube after a couple rides (in dry/dusty conditions) without degreasing the chain and still get maximum usage? Would degreasing be better or simply wasting money and time if I'm using Ice Wax as my main lube?

Ideally, everyone would degrease their chain every time, let it fully dry, and then apply new lubricant. Unfortunately, most people, including myself, don't always have time to be this thorough and diligent with their maintenance. What is nice about Ice Wax 2.0 is that when applied in its liquid state, the ingredients act as a mild detergent which helps to remove contamination from the chain. This allows for reapplication to a marginally contaminated chain without the need to degrease. The Ice Wax combines with the contaminants and when you wipe the excess with a rag, you will see it is a darker color than the Ice Wax because it has removed contaminants from the chain. When using this method, I generally apply a heavy first coating, cycle the chain and let the lube penetrate, wipe the chain with a rag, and apply a second lighter coating and wipe that again lightly with the rag.

In our testing the biggest factor in the longevity of Ice Wax 2.0 was the amount of time we let it set up after application. For this reason we always advise people to apply Ice Wax 2.0 the night before a ride if possible. This extra time to set up will provide the best performance and longevity.

To answer your final question, Syn Lube is definitely intended for harsh conditions including wet and snow and Ice Wax 2.0 is better for dry to intermediate conditions. We are just releasing some new labels for our bike care which should make understanding the appropriate conditions easier for the end user. Each has conditions icons to indicate when to use each lube. I attached a photo of the new Chainj label to show the concept. Your suggestion of using a wet lube for the winter months and Ice Wax 2.0 for the summer is a perfect approach. In terms of switching back and forth, I tend to make the switch fairy often to continually improve my first hand knowledge of our lubricants and find that a normal degreasing is enough to make the switch. If your chain is particularly bad, you could try a few cycles of degreasing to be sure. The wax should be fine to apply as long as the chain is dry and free of degreaser.

Jay


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## weekendthrasher (Jul 26, 2011)

*dhmtbj/Jay -- thx!*

Jay, got your reply to my personal email and see it posted above. Want to complete the loop with sharing. This is perfect feedback/info and greatly helpful.

Just fyi -- I did a thorough cleaning and lube on Sunday with the intention to ride on Monday, but that didn't work out. So, by default the lube had an extra day to settle in I guess as I went riding Tuesday night instead, and things were buttery smooth and extremely quiet. I fell in love with my drive train all over again, haha, and have every intention now (post this ride combined with your feedback above) of using Ice Wax for summer and a wet lube for winter.

I hesitated to send the pictures Wednesday morning since my Tuesday night ride proved so good (it was VERY noticeably better than usual). However, since I have a relatively new chain I didn't want to take any chances that I might've just fluked it off so I decided it was best to get peace of mind from your view of the pictures anyway.

Your time and effort to give me answers was well worth it as you've definitely kept a customer ... and likely created a far more educated promoter of it on the trails. First conversion this summer will be my wife, 

P.S. Felt compelled to change title of thread to correct/update.

Thanks,
Paul


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## dhmtbj (Jul 31, 2009)

Paul,

Happy to help and thank you for you kind words and patience. Glad we could help solve your problem and convert you from frustrated to fan!

Jay


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## UPSed (Dec 26, 2010)

Jay,

Came across this thread looking for instructions to apply the Ice Wax 2.0. All I've ever used is wax based lubricants so I figured I'd try the Pedro's Ice Wax 2.0. After reading through this thread I believe I have a bad batch. I purchased it on sale at my LBS and it looked to be sitting there for awhile. My Pedro's is a light tan in color and has the consistency of melted Velveeta cheese. I tried to apply it and it just became a stringy mess. Any chance I could email you a photo to determine whether I have a bad batch or not? Thanks in advance.

ED


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## AlienRFX (Sep 27, 2006)

Ok guys, I've got a bit of a strange one for ya, infact this stuff isn't even marketed for bicycles. However it's green, figuratively, and litterally, so green infact that you can eat it. I don't recomend it, but you can.

I've got other hobbies that require lubes that can tollerate dirt, grime etc. Think launching projectiles 3,000 feet per second at objects at various ranges. Anyhow I found one that I really like for use in that hobby and thought, hmmm this stuff might also make a great chainlube.

The stuff is a paste like consistency at room temperature, much like lard or vegetable shortening, and it smells like wintergreen lifesavers. I don't think it is lard or veg shortening because the flashpoint is much higher than either. Anyhow get some heat on it and it flows, high loads seem to also locally liquify the stuff too.
So I'm putting a new chain on my bike and degrease it and dry of and go grab the heatgun, or even a hairdrier and warm up the chain as I brush this stuff on there so that it will flow into all of the nooks and crannies, and supposedly help it bond/season the metal. I wipe off the excess and install the chain. 

I have found that I can go many rides here in dusty dry conditions with one application, I've gone somewhere around 5-7 rides on one application before I get nervous and think that this aint right and that the chain should be squeaking by now. It also does not appear to attract gunk like some chainlubes have a tendancy to do. I may see how long it takes before the chain starts to squeak, but by that point the chain is eating itself. Anyhow the stuff is called Froglube, and is marketed as a firearms lubricant, but was apparently a reappropriated rollercoaster lubricant called tracklube plus. The Froglube variant is also available in a liquid version that has the paste suspended in a synthetic oil of sorts, I use that for reapplication after the initial application if the chain doesn't have a master link

I've used Whitelightning, works ok but gunks up, Triflow (similar story) Pedros Ice Wax (similar experience to the original poster), Dumond Tech (love the stuff but can't find the heavier blue stuff around here) Militech 1, (ok) Slip2000 (not bad, alot like Dumond Tech) and probably a bunch of others I have forgotten about over the years.

I guess what I may be getting at is that good chainlubes don't necessarily have to be products marketed as chain lubricants.


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## Dion (Oct 22, 2009)

Call me old school, but I just use plain Triflow. It gets messy and attracts dirt, but I maintain my chain(s) periodically. I've used all kinds of different chain lubes, and they all dry up after a couple rides.


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## dhmtbj (Jul 31, 2009)

UPSed said:


> Jay,
> 
> Came across this thread looking for instructions to apply the Ice Wax 2.0. All I've ever used is wax based lubricants so I figured I'd try the Pedro's Ice Wax 2.0. After reading through this thread I believe I have a bad batch. I purchased it on sale at my LBS and it looked to be sitting there for awhile. My Pedro's is a light tan in color and has the consistency of melted Velveeta cheese. I tried to apply it and it just became a stringy mess. Any chance I could email you a photo to determine whether I have a bad batch or not? Thanks in advance.
> 
> ED


Ed,

Sorry for the slow reply. Please email me a photo at [email protected] and we'll help you out. Definitely sounds like the bad batch from your description.

Jay


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## sandcritter (Jun 2, 2009)

Most places that lived/rode are sandy, so dry lube is a must. The white lightening/finishline stuff is alright but seems to work its way out of the links/pins and onto everything else. Tried eezox which is a reel/firearm dry lube, and although it shifted great you can't wipe the excess off, so it stays wet = dirty just like an oil. Been really pleased however with boeshield T9. Have read (and so am doing) that must apply day before next use so is fully dry, and reapply only when NEEDED. Am coming up on a hundred sand/clay miles after first application, looks clean, shifts great and silent. Looks like a keeper.


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## derby (Jan 12, 2004)

Squirt lube. Water based wax lube. Best chain protection in any condition, including sloppy muddy, I've used in 30+ years off road, by far. 

Strip any other lube off the chain. Apply a minimal amount of Squirt, more than one drop per roller is wasteful, ideally 30 minutes or more before riding. It does take a few rides to soak in and build up to quiet a new chain for many rides. I normally go 30 to 45 miles including about 50% climbing time between adding more. When wet or muddy I'll apply for every ride.

Never clean the chain using Squirt, more than a light water hose spray and wipe with rag. Except it's OK to clean the outer plates for appearance. Dirt, water, and mud does not penetrate the wax if allowed to remain inside.

Pedros and other dry lubes I've tried and aware of are evaporate solvent based and when applied soften and remove some existing wax, and remain thinly coated to the chain. And if not applied at least 12 hours before a ride the solvent doesn't evaporate and allow the wax to harden. Soft wax, like every oil based wet lubes, attracts dirt and mud, since in fact oil absorbs water and dirt no matter how thick in viscosity.

Are there any other water based wax lubes besides Squirt?


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## compengr (Dec 11, 2008)

I actually switched from Squirt after trying the Ice Wax 2.0. The two are similar; both appear to be water based, but from what I can tell the Ice Wax also contains some kind of oil. You can see it separate out when the stuff sits around for a bit. 

The end result is a much longer lasting, smoother running chain lube. Unlike Squirt, this stuff stays quiet for a long time. At best I could only get about 15 miles before I heard the chain using Squirt, where I'm getting 60 miles easy with Ice Wax 2.0. 

The downside is It's a bit more messy, but nothing like a traditional wet (oil) type lubes. About once a month I have to get a brush and clean out the build-up, but it's a fairly painless process.


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## UPSed (Dec 26, 2010)

dhmtbj said:


> Ed,
> 
> Sorry for the slow reply. Please email me a photo at [email protected] and we'll help you out. Definitely sounds like the bad batch from your description.
> 
> Jay


Forgot all about this. Was promised some "good" lube but never received it. Oh well. Will stick with White Lightning.


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