# Most appropriate wheel size for a fat guy?



## Gryphter (Jun 14, 2017)

I am a very heavy Clyde about to purchase my first Mountain bike since my early 90s Diamondback. For a heavy rider I am assuming 27.5 wheels to be a better option than 29ers (Is this a actual fact?), but is 27.5+ a better option than it's 27.5 in respect to wheel and bike durability?


----------



## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

A 27.5+ wheel with boost hubs would be great. 
Another way to go might be 4.5 or bigger fat wheels on a fat bike with 80mm rims. 

Hear me out... I weigh about 245 right now, having been as high as 275 or so. I ride pretty hard on a rigid fat bike and have zero breakage issues. No spokes, nipples, bent rims, anything.


----------



## WhiskeyJr (Jul 3, 2014)

NYrr496 said:


> A 27.5+ wheel with boost hubs would be great.
> Another way to go might be 4.5 or bigger fat wheels on a fat bike with 80mm rims.
> 
> Hear me out... I weigh about 245 right now, having been as high as 275 or so. I ride pretty hard on a rigid fat bike and have zero breakage issues. No spokes, nipples, bent rims, anything.


+1

My fatbikes have remained intact even when dealing with the punishment my pachyderm self inflicts daily.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bbunnys (Aug 28, 2016)

Agree with previous comments. I'm 280 pounds 6ft 5 and been riding 27.5 plus on rims with 32 spokes, hardtail. Never had issues or broken/bent parts. 
And been on many rock gardens and technical bike park tracks.


----------



## WhiskeyJr (Jul 3, 2014)

In fact, I worked pretty hard to find a bike with a solid axle, 197 rear, 150 front hub set. 

I also ensured that I had a bluto suspension front end to reduce impact stress, and likewise added a Thudbuster LT seat suspension post.

I've got at least 1000 miles on the bike so far, and I am still at least 20lbs north of 300lbs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## milliesand (Jun 29, 2015)

My entry level hard-tail came with 32 spoke "29er" wheels, which held up 275 pounds without a problem. I did learn to check/adjust spoke tension the first couple of weeks, after which the spokes seem to "set" (?). 

So, anecdotal evidence would indicate size don't matter


----------



## Gryphter (Jun 14, 2017)

Thanks for the replies.

I actually went fat bike initially and I own a Surly Wednesday. Unfortunately, while I am 6' tall, I have short arms and legs and the large sized Surly, that the LBS insisted would be the right size, is too unwieldy for me. I understand stand-over height is not the be all end all, but it is not confidence inspiring to worry about the boys every time you hit the brakes. 

This experience has led me to doing much more independent research on bike fitment and options. I have decided I want to try and go with something I can "shrink into" and I intend to do a frame up build so that I can go ahead and get stronger parts where critical. 

I guess what I really want to know is if I gain any advantage in durability due to weight issues by going plus tire vs just plain old 27.5/29er.


----------



## masonmoa (Jul 11, 2011)

I think the most important thing when it comes to wheels is the quality of the build. My riding weights have varied from 295 up to 335 and I own a 26", 27.5" and a few 29ers. (I'm not into plus or anything that adds any rotational weight and am quite happy with my 2.4 or 2.5 tires.) If you can afford it, having a good quality wheel build is all that really matters. The size of the wheels is irrelevant.


----------



## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

masonmoa said:


> I think the most important thing when it comes to wheels is the quality of the build. My riding weights have varied from 295 up to 335 and I own a 26", 27.5" and a few 29ers. (I'm not into plus or anything that adds any rotational weight and am quite happy with my 2.4 or 2.5 tires.) If you can afford it, having a good quality wheel build is all that really matters. The size of the wheels is irrelevant.


That's actually a great point. I neglected to mention that I build all of my wheels myself. I don't ruin regular 29" wheels that I built but I did break spokes and nipples in ones I did not but my fat and plus wheels get an extra degree of protection from high volume tires.


----------



## Bike Whisperer (Aug 7, 2012)

Any of the three can be made to support big guys, but factory wheels on most sub $1500 bikes will not survive. Maybe look at 27.5+ as the rims are pretty beefy and the tires will help protect the rims a bit more.


----------



## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

Anytime you can increase the air volume of the tire, that allows you to run lower pressure, and by running lower pressure (to a point) you're increasing the cushion of air surrounding the rims. That cushion is, in effect, increasing the durability of your wheels by filtering out many (most?) of the impacts that drastically (if only momentarily) change your spoke tension. That's a rudimentary explanation, sure, but hey -- I'm a rudimentary guy.

Bigger tires at lower pressures are a lot more fun, and comfortable, and confidence inspiring to ride, too.


----------



## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

29" wheels are perfectly fine for most riders. I was 320 on factory 29" wheels and never had an issue. I'm 260 on 29" wheels I still have never had an issue. One of my bikes only has 24 spokes on a 700c (29") wheel and it sees a lot of gravel and potholed roads and never an issue. Don't think because you are heavy that you're limited to a wheel size because that's false. In fact, the ONLY time I ever had wheel issues was on a 26" bike. Go figure.


----------



## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

I got hurt years ago and after a very long recovery i was 300lbs. I broke spokes and damaged rims, but my hubs held up fantastic.

Now i'm back to 220lbs and ride 10 hours a week. I'll jump and land sideways, i make great power, and although i never have to true my wheels... man do i destroy hubs.


I can't stress-cycle wheels like some of you guys can, but you're probably not making as much power as i do even if i'm smaller. Seems like if you're a clydesdale who just casually enjoys riding you can get away with intermediate hubs and any size rim, but you want some stiff rims and lots of sturdy spokes (i recommend straight gauge). On the other hand if you're just a huge huckin' athlete you can get away with a lighter rim and spokes... but a big rim is just a big lever to break stuff with.




Everyone wants a quality wheel build and high volume tires with STIFF CASINGS. :thumbsup:


----------



## willtsmith_nwi (Jan 1, 1970)

I'm 360# ... I ride a 12x142 29er with custom 36H Chris King Wheels, MTX33 rims, triple butted spokes on a suspension Karate Monkey.

For simplicity of a novice ... I would also recommend a 27+ boosted bike. I would also recommend a supension fork and thudbuster to reduce impact on the frame which should be steel, carbon or titanium. The rear hub should have a ring (DT Swiss or Chris King) or sprag clutch (Onyx) laced with triple butted spokes,. No quick release skewers.


----------



## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

I've ridden 29" Flow/Flow EX on almost every bike I've had, with weight fluctuation from 250-340lbs. I have never busted one. The only time I've ever tacoed wheels was with a rigid fork on moderate speed G outs, and I've busted two. One Arch, and one junk Alex wheel.

All of my Flow wheel sets were hand built, and all required virtually no maintenance. No busted spokes, no dented wheels. Granted, I'm in the Dallas and we don't have any massive stuff to bomb around here, but lots of guys trash wheels. That said, I've ridden those wheelsets on some CO front range stuff and in Fruita.

Hell, I rode a 29" Arch for for a season on the rear because I had it, and it held up fine at over 300lbs.

Ask Mike what he'd recommend and have him lace 'em up. A good set of wheels one of the best investments you'll make on your bike.



mikesee said:


> Anytime you can increase the air volume of the tire, that allows you to run lower pressure, and by running lower pressure (to a point) you're increasing the cushion of air surrounding the rims. That cushion is, in effect, increasing the durability of your wheels by filtering out many (most?) of the impacts that drastically (if only momentarily) change your spoke tension. That's a rudimentary explanation, sure, but hey -- I'm a rudimentary guy.
> 
> Bigger tires at lower pressures are a lot more fun, and comfortable, and confidence inspiring to ride, too.


----------



## Rugerfan777 (Sep 7, 2017)

bbunnys said:


> Agree with previous comments. I'm 280 pounds 6ft 5 and been riding 27.5 plus on rims with 32 spokes, hardtail. Never had issues or broken/bent parts.
> And been on many rock gardens and technical bike park tracks.


283 6'4 ex body builder. Scott Spark 745, it seems the backbone of the new spark is built like a tank, it's I was surprised on how thick aluminum is.


----------



## Rugerfan777 (Sep 7, 2017)

Nubster said:


> 29" wheels are perfectly fine for most riders. I was 320 on factory 29" wheels and never had an issue. I'm 260 on 29" wheels I still have never had an issue. One of my bikes only has 24 spokes on a 700c (29") wheel and it sees a lot of gravel and potholed roads and never an issue. Don't think because you are heavy that you're limited to a wheel size because that's false. In fact, the ONLY time I ever had wheel issues was on a 26" bike. Go figure.


That's true but it's also true that 27 1/2 are stiffer.


----------



## askibum02 (Jul 7, 2005)

I honestly wouldn't recommend a 29" wheel depending on your size. At 400lbs my Flow EX 29er wheels flex like a wet noodle if I cornered while holding any speed while seated. I went with a Boost 29+ bike, and the difference was night and day, no more noticeable flex on the same exact trail. I imagine a boost 27.5+ wheel would be similar in stiffness. I'm looking for a new bike and considering a 27.5+.


----------

