# Headset Gap?!?



## mrback (Sep 25, 2004)

Hello
I have just replaced my stock stem with an easton EA50 stem for better reach & rise on the stem.
I simply swapped the stems over but now there is a small gap above the headset & below the spacers( see pic ) I dont recall this being there before but could not be 100% to be honest. If I refit my old stem exactly the same gap is there. Have I fitted incorrectly?
The grey in the gap is a kind of rubber washer which fits inbetween the headset, I have tried to mount this piece in different positions but it only seems to fit properly as the picture. Have I fitted it correctly?
Everything seem's very secure.
thanks in advance.


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## trailrash (Jan 7, 2005)

From the pic, it looks like the gap is only on one side...that's not good. When you removed the old stem, the fork may have slipped down a little. Here's what you need to do.

1. Remove the headset adjusting bolt (the one above your stem that screws into the star-flanged nut that's fitted into your steerer tube).
2. Remove your stem.
3. Put one hand under your steerer tube (between the fork legs) and push up. With the other hand, push down on the 3 spacers.

That should take all the wiggle room out. Then install your stem and headset adjusting bolt back. But *BEWARE!!! * You still need to adjust the headset via that bolt. You *can't * just screw that adjusting bolt back in and be done with it. Here's some good instructions on doing that:

http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_headthreadless.shtml

Good luck. Adjusting the headset is a tedious task.


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## mrback (Sep 25, 2004)

The gap is constant right the way round.
I have tried pushing up & pushing down where the spacers are & the small gap remains.


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## trailrash (Jan 7, 2005)

Try this: Engage your front brake. With your other hand, grab your stem and try to work it forward and back. If something feels loose, it's probably your headset. If nothing feels loose, you should be good to go. I checked my bikes tonight, and a couple of them have those same gaps.

When you put the new stem on, did you just screw in that top adjusting bolt until it was tight, or did you properly adjust your headset? If you just screwed it in and tightened it, you should probably go back and adjust the headset tension. Just follow the instructions on the parktool website.


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## Ottoreni (Jan 27, 2004)

*Some ideas*

Make sure you have at least 3-5 mm from the top lip of the stem and the top lip of the fork tube to allow for compression of the headset when you tighten it the top cap srew into the star nut.

DO both stems have the same stack height? (the part of the stem that goes around the fork the same height?) If not you may need spacers if your new stem is lower.

I also make sure the top part of my headset cannot be spun around to make sure it is tightened properly. I tighten the top cap screw until it just reaches the point where the top part, that sits on the top cup and bearings, does not spin. Don't overtighten, or you could ruin your bearings.

Good luck!


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## mrback (Sep 25, 2004)

*head set gap*

hello trailrash
I have tried your suggestion & there appears to be no movement whatsovever.
I did tighten the headset bolt though, do you not need a special tool to tighten your headset?. It is an "aheadset" which from what I have read you can just whip off a stem & bolt a new one on.
A quote from "mountain bikes maintenance & repair book" (Aheadset users can simply push the stem onto the steerer, & clamp it in place with the bolts)
Thanks for your help & advice


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## trailrash (Jan 7, 2005)

You don't need a special tool to adjust your headset...just a 5mm hex wrench. The adjustment comes from tightening or loosening the adjusting bolt (the bolt that screws in ABOVE your stem). 

If you just screwed that bolt in after you installed your stem without going through the proper headset adjustment steps, you really should. Here's an excerpt from that website I gave you:

1. Remove bolt and top cap to inspect steering column. Lubricate adjusting bolt and re-install cap and bolt by hand only. DO NOT TIGHTEN. 
2. Loosen stem bolt(s) that secure stem to the steering column. Lubricate these bolts if they are dry. NOTE: DO NOT LUBRICATE INSIDE STEM OR ON STEERING COLUMN SURFACE. 
3. Wiggle the stem side to side to see that it is loose. If the stem is jammed or rusted frozen to the steering column, no adjustment can be made. 
4. Align stem straight to wheel and gently secure the top bolt (headset adjusting bolt). Stop when any resistance is felt. 
5. Tighten stem bolt(s). 
6. Check for play by pulling back and forth on fork. Turn the handlebars in different directions while checking for play. There may be play at this early setting. Use care when grabbing suspension forks, because the legs may have play. Grab upper portion of fork. 
7. To adjust bearings, LOOSEN STEM BOLT(S). 
8. Turn adjusting bolt in center cap only 1/8th turn clockwise. 
9. Secure stem bolts, check for play again. 
10. Repeat adjustments as above until play disappears. Remember to loosen stem bolts before turning adjusting bolt in cap.


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*Stop the insanity....*

trailrash is making this much more complicated than it needs to be. Ottoreni gave you the correct direction you require.

With the stem on and the top cap off, there should be a couple of mm of your stem above your steerer tube. If there is not, then as Ottoreni said, you'll want to add another spacer.

If there is a couple mm difference between the top of your stem and your steerer tube, then you'll want to follow these steps.

1. Put the top cap on and tighten it down. This will pull the whole assembly together (fork races, headset, spacers and stem.)

2. Once the top cap is tightened, adjust your bars so they're straight.

3. Once your bars are straight, tighten your stem.

4. Go ride your bike.

It's not nearly as hard or complex as you're being told.

Ken


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## trailrash (Jan 7, 2005)

There's a reason why they call it an adjusting bolt...you use it to ADJUST you headset. Like Ottoreni said, you have to make sure you don't over tighten it. That could ruin your bearings. If you want to [email protected] it, go ahead and just tighten the bolt up. If you want to do it right, follow the directions given by Park.


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*Humm....*



trailrash said:


> There's a reason why they call it an adjusting bolt...you use it to ADJUST you headset. Like Ottoreni said, you have to make sure you don't over tighten it. That could ruin your bearings. If you want to [email protected] it, go ahead and just tighten the bolt up. If you want to do it right, follow the directions given by Park.


I've been putting together my own bikes for about a decade and don't consider my advice half assed. I specifically didn't say over tighten the headset cap. I said tighten it. If I add the following does it appease your sense of half assed?

"follow the OEM's suggested torque specification"

Perhaps you didn't read my entire post? Perhaps the part where I said follow Ottoreni's advice?

I suppose it's possible to ruin headset bearing if you over tighten the headset cap. If you over tighten the cap to the point that you're ruining your bearings, you'll notice that your steering is affected too. Which indicates that something is wrong.


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## trailrash (Jan 7, 2005)

Didn't mean to make you feel like I was attacking you. Stuff like headset adjustment come easy to people like you who have been doing their own wrenching for a long time. It's pretty clear that mrback is just starting out doing his own wrenching, so it would be hard for him to basically guess how tight to screw in the bolt. When I started wrenching, I needed written and clear step-by-step instructions, as do most beginners. Park does a good job of doing that on their website.

I guess I did come off as a butthole...I apologize. When it comes to things like headset, hub, etc. adjustment, I'm VERY anal retentive, and I get into the mindset that my way is the only way. But...I'm working on my OCD problem, per my wife's request


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*No problem...*



trailrash said:


> Didn't mean to make you feel like I was attacking you. Stuff like headset adjustment come easy to people like you who have been doing their own wrenching for a long time. It's pretty clear that mrback is just starting out doing his own wrenching, so it would be hard for him to basically guess how tight to screw in the bolt. When I started wrenching, I needed written and clear step-by-step instructions, as do most beginners. Park does a good job of doing that on their website.
> 
> I guess I did come off as a butthole...I apologize. When it comes to things like headset, hub, etc. adjustment, I'm VERY anal retentive, and I get into the mindset that my way is the only way. But...I'm working on my OCD problem, per my wife's request


No problem. I just think that Park's steps make it more complicated than it has to be. While their tighten/loosen/repeat steps is quite correct, it's overkill. You can't go wrong following those steps but you can go nuts doing it.

Ken


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## mrback (Sep 25, 2004)

*dead end*

Hello people
Thanks for all the help here..I am trying my best to follow all the advice here but still coming up with this gap below the spacers on my headset.
The new stem that I have fitted is smaller than my old stock stem.
I tried fitting my old stem back but the gap was still there.
I have posted a couple more pics to show where I am at in terms of the gap at the bottom of the headset & the top of the fork.
My local bike shop has suggested I need spacers as the new stem is lower, but I have tried different amounts of spacers 2,3,4 with no joy.
Getting fed up now.
I'm sure this gap should not be there as water & crap is just gonna get in there & ruin the bearings.
pooh.


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## FreeRangeChicken (Jan 13, 2004)

This image suggests that the steering tube is probably too close to the top of the stem and the shoulder on the top cap is bottoming out before the stack gets pulled together snug. In other words, you need another spacer.... However, you've said you tried four spacers and the picture shows the gap with three spacers. A fourth spacer of the same size should have taken up that gap.

It seems that there is something going on that isn't being communicated here. I'd suggest taking you bike to the LBS and ask their shop to take a quick look and tell you what you're doing wrong so you can correct the problem. They should do that without charging you.


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## mrback (Sep 25, 2004)

Ok. Took my bike to the local bike place to be given the once over. somebody checked it over & didnt seem to think there was anything wrong, although when I emailed them the picture somebody seemed to think that I was going to damage the headset with it like that so now I am just gonna get out & ride.
Thanx for all the help.


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*A few final questions...*



mrback said:


> Ok. Took my bike to the local bike place to be given the once over. somebody checked it over & didnt seem to think there was anything wrong, although when I emailed them the picture somebody seemed to think that I was going to damage the headset with it like that so now I am just gonna get out & ride.
> Thanx for all the help.


When you replaced your older stem with the newer stem, did you add spacers or keep the same number (and size)?

As Free Range Chicken pointed out, it may be that your top cap is screwing down on the steerer without pulling the entire assemply together. Along this same line of thought, it could be that the top cap bolt is too short (or the threads are too short) and the shoulder is bottoming out before you pull the whole thing together.

What is the silver below the spacers in the last set of pictures? Is it the steerer tube? If it is, then you're not adjusted correctly. Don't ride like that.

Ken


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## mrback (Sep 25, 2004)

The silver/grey bit on the picture is a kind of rubber washer which fits around the steerer tube. There a a couple of plastic rings which fit over the bearings & then the grey piece goes inside this keeping everything snug together. the grey piece is kind of an inverted sort of washer. I've pulled from the bottom of the headset & pushed down at the top of the headset via the spacers & there is still this small gap.


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## mrback (Sep 25, 2004)

*pic without spacers*

Just took this pic without the spacers to show what the grey piece is that is showing beneath the spacers. Just tried to fit my old stem to see if the gap narrowed but it was exactly the same. same spacers as before too. I kind of thinking has it always been like that?!? Just dont remember that gap. damn


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*You're fine, go ride.*



mrback said:


> Just took this pic without the spacers to show what the grey piece is that is showing beneath the spacers. Just tried to fit my old stem to see if the gap narrowed but it was exactly the same. same spacers as before too. I kind of thinking has it always been like that?!? Just dont remember that gap. damn


You're fine. Go ride your bike. My guess is that the gap was there before. Unless you notice play in your bars when you're riding, you'll be OK.

Ken


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## mrback (Sep 25, 2004)

**

thanks ken in kc


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