# Yep. bought a walmart bike



## JCBiggs (Mar 8, 2015)

Wth was i thinking? i guess you get what you pay for! 70.46 for a good ole (HEAVY) mongoose with shimano mechanical derailluers And good ole rim brakes. this thing is one quality peice of crap!!

In an effort to get my fat arse back in shape i took this thing out around town, over some rough patches, mostly smooth trail riding, and man.. it is woefully underequipped. I spent a couple hours adjusting everything i could, and its a little better, but its still a have turd of a bike. 

So i guess... can anyone point me in the right direction in where to go on a new bike. mainly for rooted trail woods riding, some steep decents.. im not one of these guys thats gonna pay 2k for a new bike (muc less the 4-6k for some of the made in usa stuff) so where does that leave me? the only featured id really like to have is the fox forks/shocks with ctd, i know thats pricey so i guess that puts me in the used bike bracket.. i dont want something that requires crazy amounts of maintenance either.. What do you guys reccomend?


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Fox requires more maintenance generally than RockShox or Manitou. And the CTD is crappy unless you get the top end FIT damper.
$2k won't get you a fs bike with Fox fork and shock anyway.
Luckily you can return your current bike to WM within 90 days.
If you're fat you should go for an air fork at least and probably a 29 hard tail to keep costs low.
An Airborne Seeker is under $1k.


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## SSChameleon (Feb 2, 2006)

The only Walmart mountain bike I have seen on the trails tacoed the wheel when the rider threw it into a sharp turn. Good news, Walmart will let you return almost anything within 90 days of purchase.

You can get you money back, then hit up your local shop for an inexpensive hard tail. there are many options (Haro, Trek, Jamis, Specialized all have decent entry level bikes, just to name a few). If you are dead set on the discount route, you can check bikes direct or ibex, just be sure to do your research.

For $400-$500 you could get a good deal on Craigslist. if you are buying used, Google is your friend to discover value and issues to watch out for.


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## Rod (Oct 17, 2007)

I agree with EB on a couple of points. My fox forks require regular maintenance. I ride a lot and I have to rebuild it multiple times a year. When I sent it to fox to rebuild it once a year, it would need new stanchions. I think the new seals have dramatically improved this though.

I also disagree with EB about some things. For 1k or close to it, you can get an amazing bike used. I just checked ebay and you can easily get a bike with a fox fork or competitive fork at that price. Also check Craigslist so you can inspect the bike in person and try it out.


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## JCBiggs (Mar 8, 2015)

i not fat!! jeez.. just outta shape. lol. maybe i shouldnt of over stated.. haha..

yeah this walamrt rig is gonna get ridden till i get time to take it back, and then hopefully they throw it in the trash. 

i only posted because i thougth buying a bike would be simple, but everything has segmented now and it seems like there is a bike for every purpose! i mean.. if im going to pick a bike to ride every weekend all over texas, which one do i pick. Somewhere between an all mountain and a gravity?? Idk... 

I dont mind buying something used, and i dont mind paying a little extra for good quality components that will last. Ideally.. id like to buy something in the 700-1000 range that will let me upgrade along the way. (when its needed or i just feel like buying some new forks or something) carbon would be nice, but i think it would have to be used for my price point. So is there any brand names or "models" that just stand out to you guys for what im looking for?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Rigid singlespeed will give you the least maintenance of all. 

Short of that, however, hardtail is the way to go. Super cheap forks have "less" maintenance, but they're essentially disposable. Any air fork will have some required service to replace the seals and wipers, and fluid inside at absolute minimum. Maintenance on the rest of the internals will depend on the specifics of those internals. I'm REALLY not a fan of the Fox stuff that requires a high pressure nitrogen charge that can only be done at certain shops. I have an older Fox fork on one bike that's dead easy to work with. No nitrogen BS. It also doesn't have any fancy dampers. No CTD, none of that. It just works and is relatively simple. Fairly low maintenance. I've only pulled it apart a couple times in the 12yrs I've had it.

I have a Rockshox Bluto on my newer bike. So far, what I've read about it seems to be really simple to work on, so that makes me happy. Only 200mi on it so far, so no need to mess around with it. I will be pulling it apart to do some tuning this spring, though. Some of the tuning needs to be done through the internals, but doing so sounds very simple.

Setting a budget for a new bike will help you decide what you need to be considering for your price range. Every price point is going to have its own "collection" of components you'll find. In the lower hundreds you'll find bikes that are styled like mountain bikes that are really just meant for general riding. Maybe some occasional beginner to intermediate off road trails, fire roads, etc, but not frequent, push the limits of the equipment type mountain biking. If you do start to take this kind of bike onto mtb trails frequently (I did when I started riding), you'll start to wear stuff out frequently. And since you're a bigger guy, you'll start breaking components, too.

As you move up in price, you'll find components better equipped to handle frequent off road riding. They may not have the best adjustability or tunability at the lower prices, but the durability and adjustability will be much better than the "general riding" type stuff. They'll still tend to be fairly heavy, too. Especially suspension forks.

One thing bigger guys always have trouble with are wheels. It just goes with the territory. Definitely spend enough to get a bike with a cassette/freehub setup on the rear hub. If you buy a bike with a freewheel, you'll be running a much higher risk of breaking axles. Rims will be trouble. Chances are, if you start to ride hard, you will start bending rims. Keep your tire pressures high enough to avoid bottoming out, pinching the tube, and dinging the rim. Those kinds of dings generally can't be worked out and will reduce the life of the rim. If you DO wind up doing irreparable damage to the rim, there are fairly affordable wheels you can get that have rims tough enough to withstand heavier riders. You just don't find them on stock builds unless you look at bikes meant for aggressive riding like bmx, dirt jump, that sort of thing.


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## ljsmith (Oct 26, 2007)

My advice to anyone who doesn't know what they want/need is to buy a used bike on CL. Ride the new bike a lot. In the process of riding you will figure out what you like, and what is best for your local trails. Once you get a better feel for biking and equipment you can sell the used bike, probably for what you paid for it and then get a new bike.


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## Rod (Oct 17, 2007)

ljsmith said:


> My advice to anyone who doesn't know what they want/need is to buy a used bike on CL. Ride the new bike a lot. In the process of riding you will figure out what you like, and what is best for your local trails. Once you get a better feel for biking and equipment you can sell the used bike, probably for what you paid for it and then get a new bike.


This is solid advice. I would start with a bike for XC riding. It would have 80-100 mm front fork and I would avoid a full suspension in your case. They require more maintenance and I'm not sure if you're going to be mainly road biking or off road riding. Like LJ said, once you figure out what type of riding you're going to do, then bike a bike specifically designed for that riding.


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

ljsmith said:


> My advice to anyone who doesn't know what they want/need is to buy a used bike on CL. Ride the new bike a lot. In the process of riding you will figure out what you like, and what is best for your local trails. Once you get a better feel for biking and equipment you can sell the used bike, probably for what you paid for it and then get a new bike.


I likey used bikes too.

Gaint Trance full suspension 29er

Giant Anthem full suspension MTB

Giant Anthem full suspension MTB

2014 Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29er (L) 19" ***With Upgrades***

http://houston.craigslist.org/bik/4882036475.htmlhttp://houston.craigslist.org/bik/4882036475.html

http://houston.craigslist.org/for/4913317686.htmlhttp://houston.craigslist.org/for/4913317686.html


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

where about are you located? how tall are you? we could help narrow your search for a used bike. the first, most important part is that the bike fits you.

be careful about buying used equipment. if you buy a bike with a lot of worn-out parts, the price could double by the time you are done buying a new chain, cables, cassette, brake pads, tires, grips, etc. a new bike should come with some sort of warranty and the peace of mind that is was assembled and tuned (hopefully) by a professional mechanic, so keep that in mind.

you could also look for a bicycle co-op that will have decent used stuff and volunteer mechanics to help you dial it in.

for a new bike, you could get something decent for under $1000 for sure. there are some nice bikes with Deore or X5 shifty bits, decent hydraulic brakes, and a nice spring fork for about 1K.


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## FireLikeIYA (Mar 15, 2009)

I wouldn't buy used unless you knew what you were looking for or know someone who can help you find the right bike. If you are serious about riding I would just be prepared to throw down $600+ on a bike. $1K will get you something more reliable and enjoyable to ride. Fox and Rockshox require the same amount of maintenance so I wouldn't worry about that. Stay away from Suntour forks. You want a fork that has adjustable rebound. I would go with a 29er hardtail for what you are doing. Make sure you get a 10 speed drivetrain.



JCBiggs said:


> (muc less the 4-6k for some of the made in usa stuff)


What's funny about that comment is that about 99% of the bikes in that price range are not made in the USA.


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## owensjs (May 21, 2009)

Definitely let us know what type of terrain you're going to be riding. Not just names of trails...try to describe them if you can. That'll really help with recommending bikes. 

I highly recommend that you go test ride some bikes at some bike shops. Ride different wheel sizes, hardtails, full suspensions, XC bikes, trail bikes, etc... That will really help give you an idea of what kind of bike you like the feel of. I also suspect that since you went the Wal-Mart route initially, that you're not sure what size bike you ride. The LBS will help with that.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

JCBiggs said:


> im not one of these guys thats gonna pay 2k for a new bike (muc less the 4-6k for some of the made in usa stuff)


FYI, very, very few bikes and parts are made in the USA any more. if you happened to want a domestically made bike with domestically made parts, try $10K+. that's another topic entirely, but don't be surprised when you see foreign labels on everything.


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## FireLikeIYA (Mar 15, 2009)

mack_turtle said:


> FYI, very, very few bikes and parts are made in the USA any more. if you happened to want a domestically made bike with domestically made parts, try $10K+. that's another topic entirely, but don't be surprised when you see foreign labels on everything.


You can't buy a 100% USA made bike but a frame and shock is around ~$2k. Turner bikes just had a sale on a burner with pike fork for $2995. Carbon fiber bikes are the high dollar ones and they are all made in Asia.


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## ConchoBill (Jan 12, 2015)

Actually my dept. store Schwinn (WalMart Sidewinder) is not a bad bike, but it was about twice the cost of yours. I have installed new tires and tubes, and got it set up at the LBS. And being a member of this Forum, I now have a half decent bike, a Trek Marlin. The Schwinn is pretty good, but it isn't the Trek!

I am riding the Schwinn on my ranch, which is the best riding I do, but I can't take it back tomorrow, because the blasted bulls have been fighting!


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## VideoboyMatt (Feb 11, 2014)

I often try to help newbies find bikes they can afford. There is a lot of bad advice out there, and a lot of people who forget what it's like to buy their first real bike. Forget about Fox forks, you can't buy the fork alone for less than $500, and isn't going to be on any bikes in his price range..non issue. I have found January, Feb, March is the best time of year to buy a bike. Look for left over 2014's as they will be reduced up to 50% off depending on how badly the shop wants to unload dead inventory. Bikes are like cars, and everyone wants this years model. Often times there is little to no difference between this years and last years cept minor component changes and paint color. Yes you can get a decent bike for $5-600 new. I have found some of the best value is on KHS, Marin, Haro, Scott, Giant. Trek will often give you a crappy frame with terrible geometry (the shape of the bike will effect how it rides) and fool you with bright colors. What you want is a bike that is worth upgrading. So look for the best frame you can find. Companies like Kona will often use the same frame for several models and only change the components and the color/name. This means that a $700 Mahuna will essentially ride the same as a $1300 Mohala if you upgraded it to the same specs. This is an option many newbies do. As they get more money, they upgrade what they have. With this in mind look for 9 speed rear cassette as they do not make higher components in 8 speed (common on cheaper bikes). Look for a bike with a suspension fork that is 32mm, this will give you a much better ride, and can be had in the $500-600 price range if bought on clearance. You will generally get Suntour XCR or Rockshox XC28. Avoid lower level Suntour forks, they are NOT as good, and you will want to replace them sooner than later. The others will buy you some time till you are ready to invest more.


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## VideoboyMatt (Feb 11, 2014)

I always hate bike snobs who will talk about 100% USA handbuilt boutique brands like everyone is supposed to fork out $4k on a bike. Most people forget they were newbies once. If you ask anyone who owns a Yeti, most likely their first bike was a Huffy. I own 7 bikes, and have nothing to prove to anyone. My goal is to help people find the best bike they can afford, and enjoy riding. If a newbie has a great time on their bike, they will eventually upgrade parts, or buy a new bike when they are committed that biking is right for them. Many people have a hard time moving from the idea that bikes are toys, or that you can get a Wallygoose for $130, and why does a bike shop bike cost $500. I am friends with most of the local bike shop owners, and I am always telling them they will sell 100 times more bikes in the $500 range than they will $4k race rigs.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

For new, the following should give you an idea of the lowest bikes to start with. 8-speed absolute minimum and a fork with a lockout lever (anything hydraulic will be better). If you buy used, these are the things you should look for at a minimum, because they'll usually indicate slightly better components all around. Diamond back has some good ones at the various sporting goods stores too.

giant talon ($860) or revel ($560)
Trek X-caliber 5 ($790)
Specialized hardrock disc ($480, but it's 26") or Rockhopper ($700)


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## gzank6 (Aug 26, 2014)

ConchoBill said:


> Actually my dept. store Schwinn (WalMart Sidewinder) is not a bad bike, but it was about twice the cost of yours. I have installed new tires and tubes, and got it set up at the LBS. And being a member of this Forum, I now have a half decent bike, a Trek Marlin. The Schwinn is pretty good, but it isn't the Trek!
> 
> I am riding the Schwinn on my ranch, which is the best riding I do, but I can't take it back tomorrow, because the blasted bulls have been fighting!


I put a few hundred miles on a sidewinder that I picked up at a thirft store with intentions to pull a bike trailer and kids to the park with. I ended up riding it on plenty of trails and some with tough stuff. It held up very well.. a heavy 40 lbs but durable until I broke some teeth on the cassette.

back to the top post.

if you're struggling with the variety of bikes in the new market, CL could be tough. You're focusing on a fork??? I would rethink your whole process... keep the initial purchase down, ride that mongoose into the ground until day 80 and then return it. Try some test rides at a LBS or demo... maybe rent a bike for a day and see how you feel on the trail. you need to burn fat, not cash... good luck.


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## TheDwayyo (Dec 2, 2014)

VideoboyMatt said:


> 1. Trek will often give you a crappy frame with terrible geometry (the shape of the bike will effect how it rides) and fool you with bright colors.
> 
> 2. Companies like Kona will often use the same frame for several models and only change the components and the color/name.


1. What exactly are you saying here? Trek, as a whole, produces sub-par performing bikes (due to poor geometry as you say) and 'fools' people with bright colors... And this strategy has led them to be one of the best regarded bike manufacturers in the world?

2. Trek does the same thing with their 29er hardtails... Which are a great option of the OP.

OP - Check out the Trek Marlin line. I think they are about as good as it gets for a budget mountain bike... And with one of the better warranties in the industry.


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## VideoboyMatt (Feb 11, 2014)

Trek in that price range sells junk. I had a kid come up to me the other day asking about the Marlin 6, and it's components are a joke for $600. Suntour XCT fork with coil springs, 8 speed Altus, plastic pedals, and a crank that looks like it came off a Hyper walmart bike. You cannot upgrade 8 speed to 9 speed without changing the rear cassette (about $44 to do so, plus labor), and there is no 8 speed Deore, SLX or XT made in the last 6 years or so. The highest they can go is Alivio. I can go on Performance Cycle and get a 2015 GT Karakoram Sport 29er for $629 and it will come with Alivio 9 speed, that can easily be upgraded without having to swap a ton of parts. and comes with a respectable bolt on crank.


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

VideoboyMatt said:


> Forget about Fox forks, you can't buy the fork alone for less than $500, and isn't going to be on any bikes in his price range..non issue.


Pretty sure I linked to a couple from his local CL. If you're comfortable with mechanical stuff at all, I still say used is the way to go for the best performance for your money. New bikes are like new cars or the most part - highly overvalued. The bike you pay $800 for at a shop today is worth about half that after a few rides. Screw that, let someone else take the depreciation hit.


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## VideoboyMatt (Feb 11, 2014)

If you bought the Krakoram as a 2014 leftover I have seen them in the Performance stores (we have one close to me) for $499 with the same specs, just a different color. A simple google search found a 2014 Marin Bolinas Ridge 29er with 9 speed, and real crank for $479. Trek's higher end bikes are good, their entry bikes are mass market stuff they sell because people know the Trek name, and nothing more. I read an interesting interview with Gary Klien who was known for top end handmade bikes, who got bought out by Trek. He said that they are all about selling component groups, and don't care about the frames, they are just a method for selling the component group.


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## VideoboyMatt (Feb 11, 2014)

Craigslist are good alternatives, but you have to know what you are looking at. Many newbies don't know one component set from another, or recognize the year of the bike, or if it has been well maintained. If you buy craigslist have someone who knows bikes look at it first. There are a lot of good deals on craigslist, but also a lot of 15 year old bikes that the owner paid $800 for, and thinks his $700 price is a good one.


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## TheDwayyo (Dec 2, 2014)

OK... You said their frames were inferior with poor geometry and now you're saying it's the components?

Those two bikes look comparably specced to me, with the Marlin being $50 cheaper on MSRP. The Karakoram isn't even a full Alivio group, just the rear derailleur. 

Eight speed isn't the best choice for upgrading, but then again who is gonna overhaul a drivetrain and leave the cassette anyway? Most will wait until the drivetrain wears out and then redo everything.

At that price point I think either bike is a lot of bang-per-buck. If I had to buy one it'd be the Trek... Because they have hooked me up on warranty stuff more times than I can remember. 

Also, Performance Bike is terrible. I'd never let them work on any of my bikes.


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## VideoboyMatt (Feb 11, 2014)

I'm not saying buy at Performance, I am showing there are better options out there for the money. In my town (Orlando) we have about 30 bike shops to choose from. If you look around you can find about 5 or 6 with better specs than that Trek. Newbies don't want to overhaul their bikes with new drivetrains. I have never met a newbie that does a frame rebuild. They don't do their own work, because they are new to it, and they never think of replacing the cassette. If you replaced a rear derailer and cassette, you are looking at about $100+ for even Alivo and 9 speeds.

Explaining the earlier statement about their frames to make it easy to understand..they cheap out on their frames, giving less aggressive geometry, assuming that anyone in that price range isn't going to be an aggressive rider. They use less aggressive angles, more built for comfort than speed or maneuverability. This is typical on all their bikes under a grand. Trek became one of the biggest companies out there not because of their stellar repulation (the bike world knows them as buying up companies and dumping them, and their support of Lance Armstrong even knowing the whole time he was doping because he was a cash cow). They made their money selling a ton of bikes the most cost effective way they could. They have more buying power, and on lower end bikes market "pretty" over quality. 

Brands like Kona have lifetime warranties on their frames as well.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

seconded on cheaper frames from low-end Trek. I don't think that should be a deal-breaker though. they build their low-end bikes with heavier frames with less aggressive geo because most people shopping in that price range would not benefit from a super-light frame with aggressive geometry. in fact, it would probably be a detriment. start them off with an easy-riding, bomb-proof bike and let them buy something that suits their improving skills after a year or two. makes sense to me.

it is possible that Treks cost a little more because of the brand name. the higher cost is usually marginal though.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

TheDwayyo said:


> Also, Performance Bike is terrible. I'd never let them work on any of my bikes.


my experience with P-mart agrees with you.

GT is not what it used to be. I am not impressed with much of anything they put out lately. the company that owns GT is riding the wave of 90s innovation that GT created and is losing steam quickly.


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## TheDwayyo (Dec 2, 2014)

VideoboyMatt said:


> I'm not saying buy at Performance, I am showing there are better options out there for the money. In my town (Orlando) we have about 30 bike shops to choose from. If you look around you can find about 5 or 6 with better specs than that Trek. Newbies don't want to overhaul their bikes with new drivetrains. I have never met a newbie that does a frame rebuild. They don't do their own work, because they are new to it, and they never think of replacing the cassette. If you replaced a rear derailer and cassette, you are looking at about $100+ for even Alivo and 9 speeds.


I would agree, except I would go as far as to say those types of customers aren't replacing anything at all, until it stops working... At which point a full drivetrain is needed.

Let's be honest anyway, going from Altus to Alivio is not an upgrade worth mentioning.



VideoboyMatt said:


> Explaining the earlier statement about their frames to make it easy to understand..they cheap out on their frames, giving less aggressive geometry, assuming that anyone in that price range isn't going to be an aggressive rider. They use less aggressive angles, more built for comfort than speed or maneuverability. This is typical on all their bikes under a grand. Trek became one of the biggest companies out there not because of their stellar repulation (the bike world knows them as buying up companies and dumping them, and their support of Lance Armstrong even knowing the whole time he was doping because he was a cash cow). They made their money selling a ton of bikes the most cost effective way they could. They have more buying power, and on lower end bikes market "pretty" over quality.
> 
> Brands like Kona have lifetime warranties on their frames as well.


Wait, they cheap out on frames by using less aggressive geometry? Who said less aggressive frame geometries cost less? That's a pretty odd statement to make.

I would argue that the less aggressive geometries make perfect sense on these bikes... They are designed for beginner riders who statistically will typically fall into the more tame side of riding, or perhaps only even ride on road or paved paths. A rider who knows they want to get into more aggressive riding styles will likely not go for such entry-level models.

I totally agree when people say there's a bit of a premium on the Trek name. I think that is definitely true, but it's not for nothing; you get a seriously kick-ass warranty (not just frame) and better resale value down the road due to the big name on the downtube.

I'm all for making people aware of their options, particularly those less often mentioned... But your Trek hate just doesn't seem grounded in any actual logic.


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## VideoboyMatt (Feb 11, 2014)

I don't hate Trek. I showed very clearly for similar amounts of money you can get a better equipped bike. It's not rocket science. If you want an inferior bike and pay more be my guest, buy whatever you want. I personally don't care, my bikes are in the $2,800 range, and I have several of them. However when I meet someone and the first bike the store tries to sell them is a $600 8 speed bike with Altus that looks like someone repainted a NEXT I always tell them to keep on looking. Personally I would rather get a bike I can ride for a few years and not feel like I have to dump it to get something better. Incremental upgrades sometimes are a more affordable option for entry level riders. It is much easier to swap a derailer than it is to overhaul a bike, or feel that you spent $600 last year, and now you want something better, but have to sell your old bike, or feel you wasted your money. I always recommend buy a bike that has real lasting potential and get 5 or 6 years of it it with upgrades. When I was 16 I had a Kona Cinder Cone, and a Trek, the trek I built up using spare parts. It was a decent bike that I used as a loaner for friends when they came over after I had moved up with my main bike. The Trek was my main bike before. It was decent..but nothing special.


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## FireLikeIYA (Mar 15, 2009)

watts888 said:


> For new, the following should give you an idea of the lowest bikes to start with. 8-speed absolute minimum and a fork with a lockout lever (anything hydraulic will be better). If you buy used, these are the things you should look for at a minimum, because they'll usually indicate slightly better components all around. Diamond back has some good ones at the various sporting goods stores too.
> 
> giant talon ($860) or revel ($560)
> Trek X-caliber 5 ($790)
> Specialized hardrock disc ($480, but it's 26") or Rockhopper ($700)


The problem with Diamondback now is that they use a Suntour fork which does not have rebound adjust. Having at least 8 speed (just for the upgrade aspect) and rebound adjust are probably the two most important items to look for on a beginner bike imo.


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

VideoboyMatt said:


> Brands like Kona have lifetime warranties on their frames as well.


Unless they're carbon, or you ride them naked.


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## VideoboyMatt (Feb 11, 2014)

FireLikeIYA said:


> The problem with Diamondback now is that they use a Suntour fork which does not have rebound adjust. Having at least 8 speed (just for the upgrade aspect) and rebound adjust are probably the two most important items to look for on a beginner bike imo.


The Suntour XCR is air oil, has 32mm stanchions and has a lockout. It comes on bikes in the $700+ price range. My girlfriend bought a 2014 Kona Mahuna with that fork for $780.


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

Lockout = overrated 'feature' IME. I don't see why so many people seem to think they're a must-have on a fork. I've bothered to use one maybe a handful of times in 25 years, and only for long paved climbs.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

While the lockout on a hardtail isn't important, I've never used it, on these entry bikes Suntour has used the hydraulic lockout to add rebound damping which is more important.
•Suntour XCM-HLO-29, 100mm fork with lock-out

That HLO means hydraulic lockout and a separate sealed oil unit to create it. The rebound damping uses the same unit either fixed or adjustable depending on model.
Suntour kinda snuck that in with the 2014 model changes. It makes a difference for getting use out of an entry bike. 
The Marlin 6 doesn't have it and the Marin Bolinas Ridge 29 Hydro 9SP 2014 does.


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## FireLikeIYA (Mar 15, 2009)

VideoboyMatt said:


> The Suntour XCR is air oil, has 32mm stanchions and has a lockout. It comes on bikes in the $700+ price range. My girlfriend bought a 2014 Kona Mahuna with that fork for $780.


Does it have rebound adjust? I know the DB Overdrive uses a XCR LO which doesn't have that capability. That's the default bike I use to recommend because you can get them for under $500 from Nashbar and Amazon when they are on sale. They use to have a Rockshox which made them a nice deal but then they went to Suntour. I have two friends that purchased the Overdrive with the Suntour and that was their biggest complaint.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Lockout by itself is useless in my opinion, but it's presence indicates the fork is a bit better quality. I don't think the XCT, XCM, or XCR hydraulic forks have any rebound adjust, but they have an oil system (even if it's not high quality), which is much better than their old mechanical lockout and foam/elastomer inserts. I am amazed that they offer an XCT with a hydraulic lockout though, new for 2014/2015.

It sounds like the most common advice so far is have someone with bike knowledge go with you if you want a used bike. Can't disagree with that. Many friends got burned buying bikes or bike parts without knowledge of the parts. buying new doesn't have this problem, but you're paying more for that new car smell.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

The Diamondback Sport and Expert have no rebound damping at all. The Comp has a RockShox with adjustable rebound damping at $800.


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## VideoboyMatt (Feb 11, 2014)

FireLikeIYA said:


> Does it have rebound adjust? I know the DB Overdrive uses a XCR LO which doesn't have that capability. That's the default bike I use to recommend because you can get them for under $500 from Nashbar and Amazon when they are on sale. They use to have a Rockshox which made them a nice deal but then they went to Suntour. I have two friends that purchased the Overdrive with the Suntour and that was their biggest complaint.


Yes it has a lever at the bottom that adjusts the rebound for fast or slow. It's really not a bad fork for it's price range, and I like it better than the Rockshox XC28 Coil. I have one of those and it is heavier and bouncy (the XC28). The Suntour XCR is although noticeably heavier than the Rockshox xc30 tk 27.5 solo air (I also have). So it seems to fit in between those two model Rockshox if you were to compare them.


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## VideoboyMatt (Feb 11, 2014)

watts888 said:


> Lockout by itself is useless in my opinion, but it's presence indicates the fork is a bit better quality. I don't think the XCT, XCM, or XCR hydraulic forks have any rebound adjust, but they have an oil system (even if it's not high quality), which is much better than their old mechanical lockout and foam/elastomer inserts. I am amazed that they offer an XCT with a hydraulic lockout though, new for 2014/2015.
> 
> It sounds like the most common advice so far is have someone with bike knowledge go with you if you want a used bike. Can't disagree with that. Many friends got burned buying bikes or bike parts without knowledge of the parts. buying new doesn't have this problem, but you're paying more for that new car smell.


I have a rockshox fork with remote lockout, and that is useful. You are able to lock out the fork when on pavement without having to stop, and I do find myself using it. However the knob lockout I rarely use as I have to think about it, stop my bike, lock it out, and start riding again.

As for Craigslist, if you know what you are looking at you can get some great deals. The problem is I find most newbies don't know what they are looking at. All they see is it says Cannondale, or Trek, and have no idea how to tell if it has been maintained, what year it is, if it's out of date, or if they are getting a good deal in general. If you go the craigslist rout consult a friend who has been riding a long time and knows their bikes. I often get people Facebook me craigslist ads and I will give them a general thumbs up or down. I will often see bikes from '99 with V-brakes and ancient elastomer shocks and the craigslist seller is saying they bought it not to long ago for $1000 and they are asking the bargain price of $600, and the bike honestly should sold for $180. I have been riding since the mid 90's so I know the progression of bikes, but newbies don't have the history. They wouldn't recognize the difference between a good conditioned 2005 Marin from a similar 2020. The other day I saw a person selling a year old Yeti for $1800, and a 2012 full carbon Felt for $800, and I wanted to jump on it, so the bargains do exist, you just have to recognize them.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

In regards to year of bikes and suspension. Elastomer rubber was used inside forks back in the 90s and early 2000's in addition to springs or in some really cheap cases, instead of springs. If the bike/fork is older than 2006, unless you can verify the fork does not have elastomer inside it, I'd consider the fork toast. Any elastomer that was in it is now a blob of gu. I don't think any bike manufacturers used elastomer after 2006, because they finally realized it doesn't last. Not saying that a pre-2006 bike should be knocked off the list, just double check the fork for function.


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## Highland (Jun 24, 2013)

VideoboyMatt said:


> I'm not saying buy at Performance, I am showing there are better options out there for the money. In my town (Orlando) we have about 30 bike shops to choose from. If you look around you can find about 5 or 6 with better specs than that Trek. Newbies don't want to overhaul their bikes with new drivetrains. I have never met a newbie that does a frame rebuild. They don't do their own work, because they are new to it, and they never think of replacing the cassette. If you replaced a rear derailer and cassette, you are looking at about $100+ for even Alivo and 9 speeds.
> 
> Explaining the earlier statement about their frames to make it easy to understand..they cheap out on their frames, giving less aggressive geometry, assuming that anyone in that price range isn't going to be an aggressive rider. They use less aggressive angles, more built for comfort than speed or maneuverability. This is typical on all their bikes under a grand. Trek became one of the biggest companies out there not because of their stellar repulation (the bike world knows them as buying up companies and dumping them, and their support of Lance Armstrong even knowing the whole time he was doping because he was a cash cow). They made their money selling a ton of bikes the most cost effective way they could. They have more buying power, and on lower end bikes market "pretty" over quality.
> 
> Brands like Kona have lifetime warranties on their frames as well.


My "low-end" Trek 3700 26er is anything but pretty. It's ugly flat black and it's still in decent shape after 8 years. I had to replace the pedals and the rear wheel. Other than that... the gears, brakes, etc... have held up nicely.

I thought my "low end" trek was heavy until I picked up a Wal Mart bike. I swear those things weigh about 50 lbs.


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## Saladin (Sep 25, 2014)

Highland said:


> I thought my "low end" trek was heavy until I picked up a Wal Mart bike. I swear those things weigh about 50 lbs.


Hm. I walked through and looked at the bikes at Walmart the other day. Didn't think to try picking it up. Gonna have to try that. I did notice the forks on all of them seemed like a joke.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

VideoboyMatt said:


> You cannot upgrade 8 speed to 9 speed without changing the rear cassette (about $44 to do so, plus labor).../QUOTE]
> 
> Huh? Of course you can't. You can't upgrade 8 to 9 with out replacing everything. You can't go 9 to 10 without replacing the cassette, and can't go 10 to 11 either.
> 
> ...


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Saladin said:


> Hm. I walked through and looked at the bikes at Walmart the other day. Didn't think to try picking it up. Gonna have to try that. I did notice the forks on all of them seemed like a joke.


UNBELIEVEABLY HEAVY. Just pick up a BMX, probably 40 lbs, a mountain bike might hurt your back.


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