# Singlespeed Touring



## minnewasta_angler (May 30, 2010)

Are there many people that are set up singlespeed? What gear ratio would you suggest for multi-day gravel road touring. Around here it is mainly flat with gently rolling hills.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

do you already ride single speed? I am no expert, but I would think you would want to pick a gear slightly easier than what you normally run to make up for all the extra cargo you are carrying. I ride 32/20 on my 29er SS, but I am usually not carrying anything more than a camelback of water and a few small items.


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## Super E (Nov 5, 2004)

I did a 180-mile overnight trip last summer on a SS 29er that involved nearly 15,000-ft climbing. I rode a 32x20 without much issue, but did wish I had a 21 cog at times. I walked only a few miles of really steep stuff otherwise I just muscled through it all. I also had way more gear than a normal mid-summer overnighter since the I knew the night temps were going to be low (23-degrees).


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## Lone Desert Walker (Sep 15, 2011)

I am running 32x18 on a pug and will tour with it. My front wheel has a 22 tooth freewheel I can use if the terrain gets crazy. Running SS is a good way to spend some time out there soaking in the scenery. If you are out in the back country you might not want a derailer to get jammed up into your wheel. Peoples days have been ruined by those things. SS, simple tuff, super efficient, light weight. You can carry an entire spare drivetrain and still have less weight than a multispeed setup (I am kind of talking out of my neck here because I dont actualy have the numbers but would bet a six pack on it so its not just wild speculation) Who would dare advise against touring with a singlespeed? You can always carry a 14t freewheel on a thick gold chain around your neck as an emergency fast gear.:skep:


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

If the terrain is flat and as importantly not generally very windy maybe, but personally speaking the thought of SS touring makes me shudder, especially if fully loaded front and rear and multiday, not just a weekend or something.
I've done most of my touring round uk, europe and se asia - I am completely used to the geared set up, I run a 50/39/24 105 Crank and an 11/28 cassette - and am thinking of getting a 12 / 34 cassette as on occasion it isn't low enough fully loaded uphill into the wind. As much as I love SS for recreational / town use etc. not being able to drop a couple of gears and ease off going up or having to be limited to low gears on descent or the flat would piss me off very quickly.
Even if it is a little extra weight to carry (spare RD, cables and chain) I don't care.
Don't let an old fart like me put you off if you want to try, you could even go for it big time and go hipster fixie touring.


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## RenoRacing (Aug 12, 2010)

It varies greatly depending on where you plan on riding, and the elevation gains. As a general rule of thumb, I'd say adding one tooth in the rear to what you normally ride is a wise decision to compensate for the extra weight of gear. I ran 32x20(my standard gearing for non-bikepacking rides) on a 4 day trip in the Eastern Sierras, and there were a few large climbs that I really wish I had an extra one in back to granny up the steep stuff. On my Tahoe Rim Trail trip I was running 32x22 knowing it was a lot of steep up and downs. Long flat roads are the death of you when you run high gearing like that, but your legs will thank you on the climbs...


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

Hey, RenoRacing! I`m a Reno boy too. Did you do an end to end trip on the TRP, all the bike legal parts strung together in one ride? Sounds like it. Carryied your bike across the Mt Rose closed section, or detoured down into Incline-Tahoe City?

Sorry about the hijack, M.A.


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## sean salach (Sep 15, 2007)

I rode across the US(except for one little bus detour) and down into/back from Mexico about 9 years ago on a 1x1 Rat Ride with 32 x 16 gearing. I had done a few test tours that summer and it worked fine. I wished for a higher gear across the plains states, and wished for a lower gear on almost every hill. You just need to be very ok with walking almost every hill, especially if it's a long tour and you're planning on big daily mileage. With much lighter gear setups, on shorter tours, I've managed with higher gears, up to 39 x 17 fixed gear in the Appalachian foothills.


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## Laffinatcha (Feb 24, 2012)

You ride trail with this rig? Sheesh.


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## rusheleven (Jan 19, 2012)

33X17 is what I have been using for gravel and have been happy. I'm also not usually riding balls to the walls or loaded so take it for what it is worth.


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## bike for days (Nov 25, 2011)

I did the C & O half of the C&O/GAP trail on a fixed gear. I had a flip flop but wanted to see if I could do it. 38/16. Yeah, I know that's the boring, and relatively flat half, but it was my first tour and I wanted to try something without traffic.

I also used the same rig to do Philly to Rehoboth Beach DE, fixed. Definitely had to plan my stops well in advance to slow that kind of weight, but I also had both brakes.

It'll definitely make you think about what you want to take with ya! I had to hurry back for personal reasons on the C&O trip so I mailed some stuff home and since it was downhill I averaged about 13-14 mph. Not bad for gravel pack.


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## jmmUT (Sep 15, 2008)

I've done easy/medium grade lightly packed with 32:18 and did well. I then did one grueling major elevation gain trip fully loaded with front/back racks at 32:22 and was not a fan of all the walking. Biggest issue was the weight in that case.


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## BikeShopMonkey (Nov 18, 2010)

i ran a dingle with a 32x24 and 36x20. my bike was kinda heavy with overnight packs but it worked. you really don't want to be changing gears back and forth a lot, so i stuck to which ever hill or flat was more likely that day. really saved the legs over all.


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## Noah_Deuce (May 31, 2006)

I've done the C&O on a fixed gear, running 48x18 (700x35 tires). Used the same gearing for a road tour (skinnier tires) from LA to San Diego earlier this year. 

For California, I carried my stuff in a CDW saddle pack, Revelate Tangle and Sling, and an Osprey Manta 30.


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## Guest (Apr 6, 2012)

I've posted this somewhere before but...








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The Gunnar in bikepacker mode. Short overnighter to the hot spring which resulted in Giardia (yes, we filtered).


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## febikes (Jan 28, 2011)

Gear selection will depend on your fitness level and your personal tastes. For the most part I would just use the same gear as an unloaded bike provided you are carrying less then 15 pounds.

I recently did a 961 mile on/off road tour in 32x18 and found it was a good gear although a little big for some of the gravel mountain roads in Pisgah. With SS it's all about compromise and I needed the taller then normal gear to handle the long periods of pavement involved in my route.


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## alpka (Aug 20, 2007)

febikes said:


> Gear selection will depend on your fitness level and your personal tastes. For the most part I would just use the same gear as an unloaded bike provided you are carrying less then 15 pounds.
> 
> I recently did a 961 mile on/off road tour in 32x18 and found it was a good gear although a little big for some of the gravel mountain roads in Pisgah. With SS it's all about compromise and I needed the taller then normal gear to handle the long periods of pavement involved in my route.


Is the silver windshield cover for inside your hammock?


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## febikes (Jan 28, 2011)

The windshield cover is for the bivy sack. For this trip I was using a army surplus bivy sack with the pad under the sack. The windshield cover acts as a ground cloth to protect the bivy and also reflects heat back towards me.


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## bike for days (Nov 25, 2011)

febikes said:


> The windshield cover is for the bivy sack. For this trip I was using a army surplus bivy sack with the pad under the sack. The windshield cover acts as a ground cloth to protect the bivy and also reflects heat back towards me.


I cut some pieces of that bubble wrap/foil insulation for a similar pad and another strip for inside the bag. Yet to try it out on the road, but for a one nighter it seemed to help a lot.


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## ShreddinAZ (Nov 19, 2008)

*29er Rigid - 130 mile +4000ft*

I'm going on a ride from Phoenix to Sedona this weekend.

130 miles
+4000 ft gain
Mostly Gravel/dirt and pavement

I currently ride XC/All Mountain with a 32:18. Any advice on changing the ratio for this trip?

The guys I'm going with are worried about me


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## bike for days (Nov 25, 2011)

ShreddinAZ said:


> I'm going on a ride from Phoenix to Sedona this weekend.
> 
> 130 miles
> +4000 ft gain
> ...


Just curious are you 32 up front because you have 110 BCD crank arm or just because? I have a re-purposed triple as my crank so I can only go down to 32 on the chainring.

I can't comment on your specific trip, but I went for a stupidly low freewheel because I figure it'd be easier (and cheaper!) to do radical changes by switching chainrings than cogs.

Plus they change with allen key not a specialized tool. However a remote enough tour and I'd prob want a freewheel tool on me. So perhaps moot?


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## ShreddinAZ (Nov 19, 2008)

It is 32 because it's the Truvative Stylo Single Speed crankset (all stock).I don't know the hardware pattern, but I dont plan on changing it, because SS cogs are even cheaper. 

I was planning on bringing the cassette lock ring remover and a SS cogs, or just a 20T, if I dont like my 18.

I'd like to just rock one cog the whole time. These guys already think SS is rediculous and I don't know them very well.


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## febikes (Jan 28, 2011)

You can use a gearclamp to avoid the need for a cassette tool when touring.
GearClamp - Singlespeed Conversion Kit

In terms of ring size everything is smoother with big even numbers because the chain runs on lower tension per tooth. I am planning to use 36x22 for the great divide and will carry a 20 tooth cog in case I decide to gear up at some point along the way. Larger cogs, a bigger sprocket, and a longer chain will result in a drive train that wears better and is less affected by chain stretch. Even numbers also allow the inner/outer chain links to maintain a consistent to tooth relationship for better wear.

Running a 32 works well but doing something like a 24 tooth front chainring is a bad idea. When in doubt use a bigger cog and bigger chainring combo vs. the smaller equivalent especially for touring.


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## bike for days (Nov 25, 2011)

febikes said:


> You can use a gearclamp to avoid the need for a cassette tool when touring.
> GearClamp - Singlespeed Conversion Kit
> 
> In terms of ring size everything is smoother with big even numbers because the chain runs on lower tension per tooth. I am planning to use 36x22 for the great divide and will carry a 20 tooth cog in case I decide to gear up at some point along the way. Larger cogs, a bigger sprocket, and a longer chain will result in a drive train that wears better and is less affected by chain stretch.
> ...


Thanks for the input here. I run 32x22, long story but partially for teh reasons I mentioned. Didn't even think about the physical wear issue.


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## ShreddinAZ (Nov 19, 2008)

febikes said:


> You can use a gearclamp to avoid the need for a cassette tool when touring.
> GearClamp - Singlespeed Conversion Kit
> 
> In terms of ring size everything is smoother with big even numbers because the chain runs on lower tension per tooth. I am planning to use 36x22 for the great divide and will carry a 20 tooth cog in case I decide to gear up at some point along the way. Larger cogs, a bigger sprocket, and a longer chain will result in a drive train that wears better and is less affected by chain stretch. Even numbers also allow the inner/outer chain links to maintain a consistent to tooth relationship for better wear.
> ...





bike for days said:


> Thanks for the input here. I run 32x22, long story but partially for teh reasons I mentioned. Didn't even think about the physical wear issue.


I didn't think about the physical wear at all. It does make sense, so thanks for the input.

If I ride a 32:20 I'll definitely be able to clean +4000 elevation at 120 miles. I hope I wont be spinning out too much on the flat ground so I'll bring the 18T and tools just in case. :thumbsup:


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## ShreddinAZ (Nov 19, 2008)

So.... on a separate note. What do you think about bullhorns instead of my riser bars?


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## jmmUT (Sep 15, 2008)

I'm currently setting up my touring/bikepacking ride as a dinglespeed. I run 32:16 and am adding 28:20 for when I'm loaded down and/or cranking a mean hill. The chain length is equal so all I've have to do is move the chain over.


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## rusheleven (Jan 19, 2012)

> So.... on a separate note. What do you think about bullhorns instead of my riser bars?


If it is going to be rough terrain, the bull horns are not going to give you a stable decending position at all. Tops will be to close together for enough control, and the tips are going to put you rather far over the front of the bike.
None the less if you rock it, take a pic and let us know how it goes!


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## pvbower (Apr 28, 2011)

"dinglespeed" is this a 2-speed bike with two chain rings and two cogs mounted at the same time, where you just manually move over the cahin if you want to use a different gear?

Peter


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## jmmUT (Sep 15, 2008)

pvbower said:


> "dinglespeed" is this a 2-speed bike with two chain rings and two cogs mounted at the same time, where you just manually move over the cahin if you want to use a different gear?
> 
> Peter


Yup.
So I'll have on the crank a 32 tooth and a granny 28 tooth. Then on the rear cassette, a 16 tooth cog in line with the 32 and a 20 tooth cog in line with the 28t chainring. Then I can manually move it over by loosening the wheel real quick. So when I'm approaching a mean climb, I can swap them real quick

The chain length won't change because the total teeth number doesn't change. So you are limited in gear choices by that.

I add 4 teeth to the back, while removing 4 teeth from the front.


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

i did 140km yesterday on a singlespeed. 
Was a sprint, not loaded for touring, but I can say definitively it can be done.


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## alpka (Aug 20, 2007)

140km sprint

military intelligence

jumbo shrimp


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

the gardin has 56x16 gearing, so t's always a sprint. 

by "sprint" I mean there was 10 minute break between my arrival and then departing for my return trip, and I had to be home to tuck my son into bed so I didn't stop for anything.
only had one (unused) spare tube, multi-tool and pump, granola bars and gatorade, and the clothes I wore. 
that's not a tour 

I stand by what I said, it can definitely be done, just gear appropriate to the topography you're planning on riding.


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## ShreddinAZ (Nov 19, 2008)

*PHX > Sedona 123 miles*

Well, I completed the Trip from Phoenix to Sedona ( PHX Sedona - Mountain biking trip | EveryTrail ).

I rode the entire trip with a large Camelback and two 21oz bottles in cages.
Food: I made 4 peanutbutter/nutella bagels, 4 GUs, electrolite tablets, apples, bananas, 2 energy gummies.

There was a group of 10 riders (3 girls, 7 guys) on 26" FS and hardtail bikes. All had multiple gears except for me.... sort of...
I decided to go half-assed 'dinglespeed' by putting two SS cogs (16T and 20T) in the rear, giving me the option of 32:16 (2:1) or 32:20 (1.6:1) with a <5 minute switch.








I was able to setup my 'dinglespeed' without having to change my chain length, however if I wanted to spread the gear ratio out I would have needed to remove one of my master links.









I set my chainline about 75% toward the 16T cog, which was used for most of my riding, including minor uphill climbs that lasted an eternity.
I switched to 20T twice over the course of the trip for 3 big climbs. During these climbs I was the first rider to the top with minutes to spare and much less exhausted than the granny gear'ers and walkers.

The biggest mod besides my gearing was the bull-horn style bar ends, which gave me excellent positioning for sitting or standing. 









I was anticipating this trip to be mainly groomed dirt roads and highways... A mountain bike was necessary and essential for most of the riding (4 wheeling trails). There was no singletrack, but definitely so ATV trails.

As for the Monkey... It was the perfect bike for the trip. All of the close midned people I rode with would easily disagree, but their opinion didn't matter much, when I pulled away on most terrains. :thumbsup:
I wouldn't have minded some more expirienced/serious riders, becasue we were only as fast as our slowest man (gal).

If I do another ride like this I would like to camp and that would require a rear rack at the least. That is an investment I would easily make, because I nearly have bruises on my shoulders from the heavy pack


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## Grk224 (Mar 25, 2012)

ShreddinAZ said:


> So.... on a separate note. What do you think about bullhorns instead of my riser bars?


Highly recommend.

More hand positions and option for stretched out reach (and super stretched with the addition of some aero bars). Then you get that same ergo-sort of wrist position as you do with drops. Great for long rides...

I've never noticed being unstable on steep decents or anything technical. I think you are more stable because you are more upright and further back over the rear wheel with more available space to grip on the bars (at least compared to drops - riser's I dont think are fair to compare to in this regard.)

However, 
I would think many front storage options may not work and at any rate there is certainly less area to attach gear to- especially if you were to add the aero bars.

I've never ridden them on anything besides a cross style (or fixed I suppose) bike though so I guess results may vary with a meatier tire.

Definitely worth a test though, maybe dont bet your life on it quite yet.  I hope you post what you think if you try it!


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## bike for days (Nov 25, 2011)

ShreddinAZ said:


> As for the Monkey... It was the perfect bike for the trip. All of the close midned people I rode with would easily disagree, but their opinion didn't matter much, when I pulled away on most terrains. :thumbsup:


If ya can't trust em, dust em! 

I like everything about yer post. Thinking outside the box with SS but still "_simple_". I have a similar thing going w/ multi colored chain and master links for my wide range flip flop. Actually now that I'm thinking about it I could always pull the fixed cog and throw a freewheel on that side for two different free wheels for expedition riding.

I'm sure chain tension and wheel placement are an issue w/ disc pads somewhat too, but nowhere near as bad as w/ V Brakes. I finally figured out a pretty obvious "fix" for the big discrepancy in my gears... (never said I was quick, biking or otherwise ).

I'll be running nice tight chain for the fixed side (32/16) and then chuck a chain tensioner onto the Troll when I flip for Free (32/22) side. What's another 2 min?


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## bdstorer (May 4, 2007)

I do ALOT of single speed touring.


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## Lone Desert Walker (Sep 15, 2011)

I ran 28/20 for 105 miles of dirt roads mostly flat with a few gnarly spots. Bike plus gear weighed in around 250lbs. Had to push, pull,drag, cuss, only a few times. Really got to look around and take note of my surroundings with such a mellow pace. Also, I never had to worry about a derailleur destroying my wheel and my trip. 








https://forums.mtbr.com/bikepacking-bike-expedition/yuba-mundo-heavy-hauler-desert-expedition-790193.html


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## intheways (Apr 19, 2004)

miwuksurfer said:


> I've posted this somewhere before but...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Cool bike! What kind of bars?


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## thesergeant (Jun 1, 2006)

bdstorer said:


> I do ALOT of single speed touring.


What ratio are you running on that bike? I'm thinking about trying SS touring on my CX bike at 42x17 but am unsure about the gearing.

Sans Tail Bag & H-Bar setup:


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## machinetwelve (Oct 11, 2011)

I'm planning on doing some s240s and weekend tours this summer on a cx bike. I'm in the flat part of Illinois so I'm gonna go with 44x19. and possibly 44x20 if I do fixed gear. Last year I was mostly riding a 48x17 fixed gear and it was a bit much for tours.


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## NEPMTBA (Apr 7, 2007)

I ride 32/22 on normal SS mt biking, eastern Pa rocks ya know...

...but when touring, I run a 20t cog and a 3 chain ring crank with the regular 32t as my go to gear, the 42t is still mounted. The 22 is not mounted, as I never felt I need it. I also bring a longer chain with me, two reasons, as a spare for repair and to gear up for higher speed traveling, by swapping chains to the longer one for the 42/20. I have never had a problem with chainline.

I run a Surly cogs on the back as they last and don't fail, I also carry the tools to remove it. The reason to carry the tools? To replace broken spokes they are required to remove the cog, although I have bent them through the holes in the cog to get them in, amazing how you can make things bend, just being lazy... LOL... and I do carry an extra cog too.

Can I make a comment: To me single speed touring is so relaxing, nothing to worry about as far as shifting, derailers and such. Just pick up the pace if ya wanna go, or slow up if ya wanna look around...

"Nice to see so many out enjoying "bike touring" through life"


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## Guest (Jun 14, 2012)

Thanks, INTHEWAYS. The bars are Ragley Carnegies. I love them. Really nice width and angle for me. They seem to absorb some light chatter nicely also, seeing as I'm riding rigid. 
I'm taking my singlespeed cross bike down the coast this weekend from Monterey to Santa Barbara.


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## Dirty Tiger (Nov 2, 2008)

Cool thread. You guys have convinced me to build up my Ogre as a SS with racks.

I'm looking for tires suggestions for mixed riding... asphalt, gravel and sandy dirt.


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## bike for days (Nov 25, 2011)

Dirty Tiger said:


> Cool thread. You guys have convinced me to build up my Ogre as a SS with racks.
> 
> I'm looking for tires suggestions for mixed riding... asphalt, gravel and sandy dirt.


I'm sure folks will recommend some type of semi knobbed Marathon or maybe Fat Franks. I was considering both for my Troll, but I ended up with a pair of Geax Evolution II. Granted I haven't had them for many miles yet, but they were like $40 shipped for the pair from Jenson VS $40 each.

I also just rode some singletrack with one on the back and a knobby up front. Long story why I had one "slick" but I was like 'heck, why not" and it actually held up well and didn't spin out much. I don't recommend that but if it can handle that I'm not too worried about fire roads.


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## bdstorer (May 4, 2007)

thesergeant said:


> What ratio are you running on that bike? I'm thinking about trying SS touring on my CX bike at 42x17 but am unsure about the gearing.


Sorry about the delay in a reply, infrequent visitor these days.. I run a 44t front ring with a White Industries 19/18t dingle cog, spot-on for hilly Tasmania where I live.


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## bdstorer (May 4, 2007)

Other thought worth sharing in regards to single speed touring is to use SPD shoes that having 'walk ability'. I use Shimano DX shoes, comfortable enough for the inevitable uphill walks.


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