# Triple XML Bar Light MK2



## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Hi Guys. Since I am not an artist I thought I would pick the collective brains of the forum and ask for your opinion on a light I have designed.

As the title say's it is a triple XML driven form a Hipflex or H6 flex mounted in a rear pocket powered by a 14.8v Pack. The optic is a triple cutter medium or spot and it will have a remote handlebar switch with stat led mounted to the rear of the light. The other option would be to use a Lflex with 11.1v pack wired in 3s2p to give better run times.

The mount is custom machined from 5083 alloy and will be secured to the light with a cap screw.

Anyway here is the first revision of the design and I welcome your opinions, good or bad.

As a side not the current design including the mount is 175grams.

Thanks


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

I'm no artist either but here's my $.02.

Add shorter versions of the slots on the optic end to the driver end. Symmetry.

Extend the "eyebrow" to the corner of the body. May not be a big deal, but it looks like the current shape may be a bit too minimal.

And as always, round the edges generously.

Are you able to get octagon bar or does it start as square bar then get the corners milled?


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

other than "are you sure that'll be bright enough"  my only comment would be that the lflex would have to dissipate too much heat on full with a fresh battery if it's driving 3 LEDs in series. 2 was the max George said it would take and I don't think he was terribly happy with even that. Someone with some more maths brains can give you the figures, but I think 2 LEDs are already causing the Lflex to burn off over 5W (~1V x 3A x 2) which was around its limit.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Thanks for the comments guys.

Vancbiker this one was actually designed around 50mm round bar (the light is 50mm tip to tip). I need to stop by the steel merchant today and see what sizes of square and hex bar he sells to save wasting so much material and save some time. 

Matt looks like I'll be sticking with the Hipflex or H6flex then. Thanks for the heads up. as for too much light is there such a thing . I'm going to make some twin and single Xml's as well but that's another story.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Think I might machine this one up in black and red, now just to find some spare time


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Nice!


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Vancbiker said:


> Nice!


Thanks Mate, now if only I could machine them as quickly as I can draw them in CAD.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

This is the end view housing showing heatsink for the h6flex and stat led visible in blue. Power and remote switch entry is from the bottom of housing using an M8 4 pin plug and socket.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

They do look very good thats for sure 
wish I could drawup stuff like that got stuff in my head but cant get it out on to paper or screen.

from a weight point of view. there does look to be a lot of metal that could be removed.
I also prefer Hex bar it somehow looks neater. imho.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> They do look very good thats for sure
> wish I could drawup stuff like that got stuff in my head but cant get it out on to paper or screen.
> 
> from a weight point of view. there does look to be a lot of metal that could be removed.
> I also prefer Hex bar it somehow looks neater. imho.


I do agree that there seems to be plenty of alloy that could be removed but I don't want to spoil the aesthetic's (got my skirt on now). I have tried shaving a mm of here and a mm off there but it only seems to drop a few grams. (another advantage of a cad program as it gives you the weight). It might be easier to make one up then start shaving from there.

Mate if you ever want any cad drawing done just let me know. I am pretty sure I can keep a secret


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Thats looking pretty smart Brad, looking forward to the finished light...
I wish i had the cad program you use to draw them up, so i can work out the surface area properly!


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> Thats looking pretty smart Brad, looking forward to the finished light...
> I wish i had the cad program you use to draw them up, so i can work out the surface area properly!


Thanks Jay. I never though the surface area function was that useful until anodizing as with just 2 clicks you can get the total area so it is dead easy to calculate the ano time and current

The housing above has a surface area of 71 in² which is a lot more than I would have thought. So to anodize I'm looking at 160 minutes @ 2.2 amps using the LCD method. Should be enough time to have a beer or two.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

brad72 said:


> Thanks Jay. I never though the surface area function was that useful until anodizing as with just 2 clicks you can get the total area so it is dead easy to calculate the ano time and current
> 
> The housing above has a surface area of 71 in² which is a lot more than I would have thought. So to anodize I'm looking at 160 minutes @ 2.2 amps using the LCD method. Should be enough time to have a beer or two.


Id like to know what my tripple XML's surface area is, but I've found that setting my power supply to 12amps limit and leaving the housing in the acid bath for 90mins works fine..


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Jay your method is certainly a lot faster but I'm not game changing what I'm doing as it works in case it all goes pear shaped.

Anyway I manage to make some chips tonight. I'm cutting enough to make 2 housing to start with so I can try different colours.

The pictures show the 50mm square bar in the V Blocks with 1 face machined. The idea will be to cut the face and then plunge the longitudinal slots before going to the next face to save some time. The bar is cutting really nicely and I'm taking 5mm cuts so there's swarf flying everywhere so machining in my pyjamas probably isn't the best idea. But, I guess as long as my wife doesn't find any swarf in the bed should be ok


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## OverTheHill (Dec 3, 2004)

Nice. I think the suggestions made by Vancbiker have improved the looks, especially the larger hood. It seems to make the proportions of the light look more balanced now as well as probably being a bit more effective.

What CAD system are you using for your designs?


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## tv-kid (Jan 15, 2010)

Hi Brad, nice pics.
what CAD program you using here? I like the rendered images, or are they just screeen shots?
keep up the mighty effort.
cheers, tv


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Wasted no time going from drawing to chips flying!


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Thanks for the comments guys. 

OTH, the proportions do look much better. It seems the little things make the biggest difference to the final look so thanks Vancbiker for the advice:thumbsup:. I was going to wait till next week when my DRO arrives to start machining but I'm too impatient plus I love to see designs come to life. 

The cad program is Autodesk Inventor Pro 2011 and yep tv-kid they are rendered images. Cad cetainly make designing the housings easy, in fact a little too easy. I'm going to have to CNC my mill one day so I can machine all the designs (now i'm dreaming). 

Keep you posted on the progress


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

if it's any help on the motivation front, my 3 year old was very impressed with the progress so far..

I like the look of the black one, never much been into red. I also like the bling factor of the carbon bar in the render


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

mattthemuppet said:


> if it's any help on the motivation front, my 3 year old was very impressed with the progress so far..
> 
> I like the look of the black one, never much been into red. I also like the bling factor of the carbon bar in the render


My 8 and 5 year old girls liked it also so must be a good sign. I bought a carbon fibre moulding kit earlier this year to add some carbon to my lights but still have to find the time to make some fibreglass moulds. Why is it we all seem to be getting busier 

As for colours i can do Red, Black, Green, Yellow, Purple and Orange. I might even try some 2 tone anodizing where it has a little red on the front fading to black. Being a Specialized bike owner I like red on my bike


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

This 56 year old likes it also 

Wouldnt mind seeing a yellow one done .

Please if you are trying the red to black experiment on a scrap bit first as I did that on a light and it went horribly wrong .


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> Please if you are trying the red to black experiment on a scrap bit first as I did that on a light and it went horribly wrong .


Thanks for that, it looks so easy in the video's.......damn those professionals


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Well I got the bar machined to shape tonight and polished to just under a mirror finish since it is easier to do when one long length. I need to try and find a supplier of hex bar around the dimensions I need to make the job a little easier in the future.

Anyway here is a picture of the progress


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Like the design Brad.

Won't you get machining / vise marks on it when doing the rest of the milling and need to polish it again?


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

emu26 said:


> Won't you get machining / vise marks on it when doing the rest of the milling and need to polish it again?


For most of this build I will be clamping on the un-polished end but when workingon the polished end I use paper and soft jaws in my chucks and paper and a strip of alloy when clamping to the mill table. This usually does a pretty good job of stopping marks, plus making sure that the vice or chuck doesn't have any burs on it. Here's hoping it works again this time because I hate polishing.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

All dialled up in the 4 jaw ready to make some chips but ran out of time so more tomorrow


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## borrower (Feb 26, 2011)

Brad, are you going to use all that hexed up stock? Would you contemplate a custom milling job out of the last 30mm? (Simple-simple, I'd reckon, with quite loose tolerances...) Please PM me if it's a possibility.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

borrower said:


> Brad, are you going to use all that hexed up stock? Would you contemplate a custom milling job out of the last 30mm? (Simple-simple, I'd reckon, with quite loose tolerances...) Please PM me if it's a possibility.


PM sent


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Well I made a little more progress today on the lathe so that part of the machining is done. Now to take it over to the mill and start cutting the slots and screw holes for the rear cover.

Below are a couple of shots of the machining and the housing so far. A couple of the shallow grooves are a little out (bar moved a little in the soft jaws when machining) but as this is a prototype to see how the housing handles a triple XML on full power in a Queensland summer I'm not going to loose too much sleep over it.

Starting to cut the grooves









Boring the chamfer for the front hood









Housings progress after today's machining


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## uncle_bob (Jul 26, 2010)

looking good brad


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Looks good brad, funny how it looks to small for a cute xml optic in the pics..
I was planning to get some new housings done..but the Mrs went into labour last Tuesday, which was 18 days early. 
Clever boy didn't want to share his birthday with Xmas day! He'll be a week old in 3 hours and 15 mins..


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Congratulations to your wife and yourself Jay.. Being a Dad and seeing you baby for the first time is the best thing in the world. 

My girls are 9 and 5 and the 9 year old learnt how to use the mill yesterday so she is very excited. She also loves typing the dimensions into Cad for me. Could have another engineer in the making. 

The housing is bigger in real life but has come out pretty well. Wasn't too hard to machine. I'm still waiting on the triple boards from cutter so it will give me some time to anodize it I guess. Then some testing. I already have some other lights in the pipeline but again I am waiting on optics from cutter. Wish my parents taught me to have some patience.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Goldigger said:


> Clever boy didn't want to share his birthday with Xmas day! He'll be a week old in 3 hours and 15 mins..


Congratulations Jay. Is he your first?



brad72 said:


> I already have some other lights in the pipeline but again I am waiting on optics from cutter. Wish my parents taught me to have some patience.


They tried, but if they were anything like my parents trying to teach me, they didn't have the patience for it


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## borrower (Feb 26, 2011)

PATIENCE?!? How long will _that_ take to learn?!?

Congrats to Goldigger -- you'll have your own child labour force in no time at all.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Cheers guys, 
Yes hes our first..
hopefully he will learn to use the mill,.mtb, gym etc..


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

All the best Jay Amazing time when a child is born .

:thumbsup: Brad


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## bravellir (Nov 24, 2008)

congrats GD :thumbsup:


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

A little more progress today. I managed to get the thread cut in the front for the lens retainer bezel and go the 4mm slots cut into the body. Loving the DRO as I hate counting turns.

Here a couple of shots, the fist one is the slots being cut showing the end stop which makes setting up the part in the vice quick and repeatable as you have a fixed datum


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Can you show us how you did the threading please Brad?
Something i cant do on the mill, i did just look how much a 36mm tap and die would cost for a laugh!!! ouch!!!


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Jay, I cut the thread on the lathe so unfortunately the only way to cut one on the mill would be to use a tap but as you said the price of the bigger fine pitch taps make them not an option unless you are going to produce heaps of lights. On the lathe it is a doddle as long as it has thread cutting gears. 

If however you cnc your X2 then threading will be easy.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Thinking out loud Jay is you were to put a stepper motor on your rotary table (which would be useful anyway since you are milling complete circumferences) and put a stepper on your z-axis you could cut threads using Mach3 software. The cost would be not that much but you would be able to cut any thread type, internal and external. 

The thread cutting tool would be mounted to the head via a coupe of cap screws making it nice and secure.

Your only other mechanical option would be to make up a gear train that drives the spindle down and rotates the rotary table at the same time. Doable but not as neat as servo's

Having the lathe is just so much easier. Select the TPI of the thread, fit the boring thread tool and cut till the correct depth of thread is reached and make note of the major diameter. Then turn some bar down to the major diameter of the internal thread and fit the external thread cutter. Then start cutting external thread and when close to the correct depth try and screw the 1st part you threaded and keep taking off small amounts until the desired fit is reached. 

Some people use the thread chaser dial and disengage the saddle after each cut but I like to keep the saddle locked and use the forward and reverse to keep the thread pitch perfect. I just back the tool off at the end of each cut so I'm not dragging the tool backwards through the work. 

Food for thought


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Broke a 2.5mm tap off today...ggrrrrrrr. Haven't broken one of them for a while and of coarse it has just gone closing time. 

When I catch up with Murphy I'm going to kick his arse


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Got the rear cover machined this afternoon so hopefully onto anodizing tomorrow after a bit more polishing then the assembly.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Got the anodizing done today and it worked....wooo hoooo. Now I just need to work out how to get the red darker but it nearly matches the bars so I'm happy. Looks good on the enduro I think.

I haven't wired up the led and driver yet as I want to let the ano cure for 24 hours before final assembly. I also need to cut turn the front screw on bezel but that will have to wait till Monday.

All the sanding and polishing certainly pays off in the final finish. Need to buy some cotton buffs for the bench grinder though I think. My poor arms were knackered.

Here are a few shots of the light and the remote thumb switch.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Good job brad, that's come out really nice :thumbsup:
How much does it weigh including driver and leds etc?


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> Good job brad, that's come out really nice :thumbsup:
> How much does it weigh including driver and leds etc?


Thanks Jay. The anodizing has certainly made a difference to our builds.

As for weigh I'll find out tomorrow. Probably weighs more than I would like but the MK3 can be shaved down a bit more. I reckon she's somewhere around the 180g mark but if it can handle full power on a hot summer night then probably worth it.


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## bravellir (Nov 24, 2008)

looks amazing.. :thumbsup:


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Bravellir, thanks for the kind comment

Jay, 240g complete with leds, driver, cable etc. MK3 will need to go on a diet.

I'm wondering what bead blasting the housing prior to anodizing might look like


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

brad72 said:


> Bravellir, thanks for the kind comment
> 
> Jay, 240g complete with leds, driver, cable etc. MK3 will need to go on a diet.
> 
> I'm wondering what bead blasting the housing prior to anodizing might look like


MMM-Nice

if you get weight weenie disease i think you will have to go back to round though

Beadblasting will certainly give you more surface area to anodise I had one done once and it was not pretty IMHO

either polished or with machining marks left in like the hope stuff looks bestest to me


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## OldBoy82 (Feb 26, 2009)

brad72 said:


> MK3 will need to go on a diet.


Brad - been following your build from the start and really impressed.

As for losing some weight, maybe a remote driver so you could lose the lump on the back? Depends on how to store your batteries of course.

looking forward to beam shots.


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## borrower (Feb 26, 2011)

Sweet ano job... looks really good.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Looks great! That is a nice bit of work there and matching the bars is cool. 

The ano shop I talk to does beadblast parts when the customer specifies a satin finish. The blast media has the look of flour. Very very fine grit.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Vancbiker said:


> Looks great! That is a nice bit of work there and matching the bars is cool.
> 
> The ano shop I talk to does beadblast parts when the customer specifies a satin finish. The blast media has the look of flour. Very very fine grit.


Good point mine was bead blasted IIRC


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

nice job brad very cool :thumbsup:


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Thanks for the positive comments guys. It certainly is a great feeling seeing a design come to life. I was nursing the housing when watching tv last night like it was a new born. My wife thinks I'm a loon. I just love the high gloss ano finish.

*Vancbiker*, interesting comment on the fine blast media. I have heard some people using bicarb soda but never knew if it were true. I guess I would still need to polish the light first to remove the machining marks then blast to get the matt finish. I guess the advantage of blasting is that the finish would be even but theoretically it should make the surface harder, a little like bead blasting bars?

*OldBoy82*, I'll do some trimming and skimming in CAD and see what can be lost. My batteries are 14.8v and wrapped so no room on them but I should be able to get wall thicknesses down and drop a heap of weight. I'll do some heat testing first and go from there. As long as it can handle 28- 30ºc going slowly it'll be sweet.

Again thanks for the feedback everyone.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> if you get weight weenie disease i think you will have to go back to round though
> 
> Beadblasting will certainly give you more surface area to anodise I had one done once and it was not pretty IMHO
> 
> either polished or with machining marks left in like the hope stuff looks bestest to me


Mate I haven't seen many competitors lights because most of the bike shops round here don't stock them. Do the hope lights leave turning marks etc and polish selected areas?

As for being a weight weenie i don't think i'll ever get there riding a 14kg AM bike . I just like a wall of light for the DH runs . I've received my Lflex's though so I can make a super light helmet light.

I am surprised how much heavier the hexagonal light is though compared to the round. Hex does look heaps better though.


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## JezV (Oct 31, 2009)

Bad, that's a great looking light and something to be proud of. Not surprised you're nursing it like a newborn. Well done, wish I had the patience, expertise and equipment to do something as good


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

brad72 said:


> I am surprised how much heavier the hexagonal light is though compared to the round. Hex does look heaps better though.


Hexagon or octagon is way more appealing in looks than a round light. The only real reason that it is heavier is that you chose not to do all the fiddly machining that would be needed to cut the pockets to match the body. If you had done that you would have spent much more time, likely hours, at the mill. It's obvious that you have the skill and ability, just opted not to do it on this light.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Vancbiker said:


> Hexagon or octagon is way more appealing in looks than a round light. The only real reason that it is heavier is that you chose not to do all the fiddly machining that would be needed to cut the pockets to match the body. If you had done that you would have spent much more time, likely hours, at the mill. It's obvious that you have the skill and ability, just opted not to do it on this light.


You've hit the nail on the head although this housing took much longer to build than I was expecting.. but they are a labour of love.

The next inception will have shallower longitudinal slots and I will reduce the wall thicknesses of the front and rear pockets by undercutting with the lathe. I'll just make a different profile boring bar by brazing some shaped tool steel to some bar. Other way would be with the rotary table and a woodruff cutter. 150g for a complete housing would be nice although my 7up xpg weights 210g and only just handles full power on a hot light going slowly.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

I have just mocked up a MK3 and have managed to drop 55g from the housing so total weight of the complete light with driver, led, optics and cable should be about 185g but will still be thermally stable 

I have also made it so it can fit a 7 up xpg/xpe board and optics up front because I still like that beam.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Got all the parts together ready for assembly. I'm looking forward to see what it is like on the trails. Also my black anodizing dye arrived today so I can make a black housing.


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## drevil540 (Sep 28, 2011)

*Custom light*

Nice build the light looks great.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> Can you show us how you did the threading please Brad?
> Something i cant do on the mill, i did just look how much a 36mm tap and die would cost for a laugh!!! ouch!!!


Hey Jay, here is a video of cutting the thread for the front bezel (iphone mounted to the toolpost)






Here's the finished bezel ready to be anodized. I have an O Ring that goes between the step in the front and the lens


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## stu44 (Mar 28, 2007)

Note to self, Drive up the range and pay a visit to Brad to see this in the flesh.

Looks bloody great.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

stu44 said:


> Note to self, Drive up the range and pay a visit to Brad to see this in the flesh.
> 
> Looks bloody great.


Thanks Mate. Going to make a few more soon .....it's an addiction.

Nice frames by the way


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## Rich_SC (Oct 10, 2009)

Hey brad I've got a mini lathe but just use it for simple boring/turning...is there a site you know of that spells out how to do the inner and outer thread cutting? I'd like to incorporate that into my lights.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Rich_SC said:


> Hey brad I've got a mini lathe but just use it for simple boring/turning...is there a site you know of that spells out how to do the inner and outer thread cutting? I'd like to incorporate that into my lights.


Mate what is the make and model of your lathe?


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## Rich_SC (Oct 10, 2009)

It's one of those cheap chinese 7x10 mini lathes. I have all the gearing etc for threads.

Click for large view - Uploaded with Skitch


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Rich_SC said:


> It's one of those cheap chinese 7x10 mini lathes. I have all the gearing etc for threads.
> 
> Click for large view - Uploaded with Skitch


Hi Rich. That's a nice little lathe you have there and quite a few lights turned up I see. Turning threads is very easy to do once you have done it once or twice.

If you don't have thread cutting tools you will need to sharpen some tool steel to a 60º point. If you have a gauge you can use that to get the angle correct, if not an M8 bolt or similar will do. Just keep sharpening it and putting into the thread and when correct angle is reached it will fit snugly with no gaps. If you have tools that take tool steel you can usually sharpen I piece up and use it on both your boring bar and turning tool.

I find it easier to do the internal thread first. Start by boring it out the diameter you need (thread minor diameter) then fit your thread cutting boring bar. Start up the lathe and touch the tip of the threading tool to the bore and zero out your cross slide scale and write the number down. (another way is to get some cigarette paper and wet it with some oil. Press the paper onto the bore and wind the threading tool till the paper rips or is dislodged)

Next lock the lathe carriage to the lead screw via the little black handle. When you start you lathe in the normal direction the carriage should move towards the job. If it move away turn the handle the other way.

Once the carriage is locked do not disengage till the thread is cut. Now choose a slow speed , put the lathe in forward and take light cut (0.003"). When the desired thread length is reached back the tool away from the job with your cross slide and hit the stop at the same time. Then reverse the lathe which will bring the tool back out and start all over again till the desired thread depth is reached (this might 10 or so passes). Final thread depths is usually reached when the threads have a very small flat on them. You could also use a thread gauge to check for the depth. Then take note of the final diameter and this will be initial diameter of the external thread. If you don't have a dro jot down the setting on the cross slide scale before each cut so it is easy to reset the tool for the next pass. Once the thread is finished add the depth of the thread to the starting diameter and write it down.

Now for the external thread. The final internal thread depth you reached will be you outside diameter (Major diameter) of turn the bar down till it is just oversized then cut a 45º chamfer on the end to give the thread something to start on.

Next repeat the process you did for the internal thread. When your depth (minor diameter) is nearly reached try mating the female part on the thread and keep taking light cuts till the 2 parts screw onto each other smoothly.

Sorry for the long winded answer but I hop it helps. this link also has some good info https://www.discoverlivesteam.com/books/threads.pdf

Brad


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## Rich_SC (Oct 10, 2009)

Thanks! I'm still in the learning stage but am getting the hang of the lathe. It's a steep learning curve right now. I need to get the thread boring bar...I've got a 60˚ standard thread bit. 

I'm in the process of making some lights for a local junior team. I ran into them the other night and my single 7up pretty much had more light than all 12 of them. Haha.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Rich_SC said:


> Thanks! I'm still in the learning stage but am getting the hang of the lathe. It's a steep learning curve right now. I need to get the thread boring bar...I've got a 60˚ standard thread bit.
> 
> I'm in the process of making some lights for a local junior team. I ran into them the other night and my single 7up pretty much had more light than all 12 of them. Haha.


Sweet:thumbsup:. The 7up's do punch out some light.

The best way to learn is by doing I think. One bit of advice I can give is to listen to the tool and feel it through the handwheels. It will tell you so to speak when things are not right.

Also to save counting turns a 25mm dial indicator mounted on your carriage and measuring cross slide movement can be quick for measuring depth of cut and they are really easy to zero out.


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## derek (Jan 13, 2004)

Can you give the details on the cable connector and the switch/battery connector?

Looks like a great solution that I haven't seen before.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

derek said:


> Can you give the details on the cable connector and the switch/battery connector?
> 
> Looks like a great solution that I haven't seen before.


The cable and socket are from RS Components, part numbers 282-962 & 290-6613.

What I do is cut and split the cable part way along and join another length of cable and seal it with a Y heat-shrink joiner. The un-joined cable becomes the battery cable and the joined part goes to the momentary switch.

The momentary switch is just a normally open tactile switch sealed inside some heat-shrink. I just make sure I choose a switch with a high operating force to stop nuisance activation and to give that firm click feedback through my thumb.

The battery connector is just a standard deans plug that I use with my RC helicopter batteries. I am still yet to find a suitable budget waterproof connector in Australia.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Well I finally got the light wired up and tested tonight and all went well.

Thermally @ 2800mA the light will hit thermal cutout of 50ºc with no air movement (sitting on the desk) after about 10 minutes but outside just walking around (redback spider hunting and killing) it will hold full power with no cutoff in an ambient temperature of 20ºC so riding it will be fine. I certainly wouldn't want any less surface area.

The stat led will need a higher valued resistor because it is a little too bright and I think it might be a little annoying out on the trail.

At full power of 2800mA the light draws 2.06A from a 14.8v, 2600mA battery pack and 440mA on low so run time will be about 2 1/2 hours on high.

Below are pictures of the stat led blazing away and the driver attached to it's heatsink. I'll post some beam shots another night.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

How come you didnt mount the driver to the rear of the leds?
Do you think it might trip the thermal protection if you did?

My tripples are set up with the driver on the rear of the leds, thermal protection set to 60° and i haven't had it trip in the house on high yet...


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

The driver is mainly on the rear cover of the housing for ease of install but also so I can get the heat away from the driver as the cooler the driver runs the more efficiently it runs. Because the whole housing gets hot which includes the air inside the pocket that the driver sits in it will trip out if there is an overtemp situation regardless of it's position.. 

It's about 25ºC in my office tonight so reasonably warm but it is also that hot and sometimes hotter on our summertime evening rides. I'll set the thermal protection to 60ºC tomorrow and see what happens


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Well done Brad but shouldn't you be out hunting cane toads and leaving the redbacks alone?

When you get the chnce can you take a pic of the light side on so we can get an idea of just how deep those main rings / grooves are, most of the pics are on a slight angle so it's hard to gauge?

Thanks, and well done


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

wow, that looks as sweet as a bar of Hershey's wrapped in bacon coated in marshmellows and dipped in butterscotch sauce!

I like the idea of having the driver on its own back plate, purely from an ease of soldering perspective. I'm guessing that there's good thermal contact between the back plate and the housing, so that the driver can monitor temperature?


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

*Emu*. No cane toads at the moment but did get about 30 red backs around the pool fence and house. Easy to spot at night with a light and I hate using pesticides when a thong is so effective. I've added a side on picture for you to show the profile. This light has 4mm grooves with 1.8mm fins. Centre core is about 16mm.

*Matt* your description has made my mouth water. As for thermal tripping I did some trials with the 7up light by insulating the driver heat-sink from the housing with an acetal washer and even the air heating up inside the driver pocket is sufficient to trip the driver if the housing overheats. But the light I have made has very good contact between the rear cover and main body so no problems there. I have also got an o ring seal to keep water out.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

I've learned a lot of things since coming to the States  nice pool shot too, just to rub it in to us frozen northeners!

I didn't realise how much material had been taken away in the centre section, it really does look cool! One day I'll teach myself how to use a lathe..


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Thanks Matt. The blue really contrasts the red really well. Almost feel like an artist It's About 28ºC here today and the pool is heated to 27ºc so the kids and I never want to get out. But it does get cold here to. Got down to -1ºC overnight last winter, for about 7 days

Get yourself a lathe. Lots of fun sending chips everywhere and walking them inside for the Mrs to rouse on you.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

-1C, yeah right, that's cold 

the owner of my lbs has a lathe and lives a few doors down from me, so I keep meaning to ply him with beer to teach me how to use it. I wouldn't mind re-doing my helmet light at some point, but it's just a case of finding the time.


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

Beautiful light Brad. It's nice to see a new design carved out of octagonal bar. 

Derek beat me to the question about the connectors. I like the way you incorporated the connectors into the bottom of the light instead of out the back. Thanks for the part numbers.

I think you're right about the stat light, it's pretty bright. For some reason blue LEDs really stand out. By the way, what kind of info will the stat light give you?


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Thanks for the compliment ThinkBike. I've never made a light this shape and to be honest I really like it. 

The connectors aren't overly cheap but they work very well. I use them all the time for sensor wiring at work and rarely have one fail

The stat led with the Taskled drivers gives a warning when your battery is getting low by flashing at a rate that you program. Very handy when out on the trail but your right about the blue being very intense. I might change the LED to a red one.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

It looks a bit like a Ferarri version of the Night Lightning MiniBlaast.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Not much more progress, just thought I'd show the black anodized front bezel and make the 'o' rings for the front and back. Just need to take some beam shots and then make the MK3 housing.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

I made a triple XML mk4 but didn't like it so I made a mk5 light. The main difference is the body is now 45mm, not 50mm, it's a bit shorter and the front bezel is secured by 8 cap screws. I thought the front bezel would have been faster to make but the threaded bezel is actually much quicker to machine so go figure. Weight wise the housing without electrics is about 150g so it has dropped a lot of weight. I have another design that is 7mm shorter so that is what I'm making next.

The light below is a housing I have made for someone else but though I would show it as a comparison. The green is more vibrant in person. Spent about 7 minutes in the green ano dye (after anodizing of course)


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## The Understater (May 6, 2007)

Very nice job Brad. I like the green! Hadn't thought about that as a colour option until now.


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## Rich_SC (Oct 10, 2009)

Gorgeous. I've got to start anodizing.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Thanks guys. I wasn't sure how the green would look but I am very impressed and it looks really nice.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Very nice, though I like the hooded model better.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

brad72 said:


> Not much more progress, just thought I'd show the black anodized front bezel and make the 'o' rings for the front and back. Just need to take some beam shots and then make the MK3 housing.


Hope you have your light patented Brad.. these are looking very similar to yours..


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

mmmm, there is an uncanny resemblance, even down to the battery cable connector. I often wonder if the light manufacturers troll the forums looking for new designs that might be a bit presumptuous of me mind you. 

I think my light looks better though, but that's just me

If only I had a cnc in my back shed so I could churn out a hundred or so housing's to sell. 


.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Those guys have been around a while...

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/four4th-lights-miss-selling-585103.html

Maybe brad72 copied them


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Vancbiker said:


> Those guys have been around a while...
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/four4th-lights-miss-selling-585103.html
> 
> Maybe brad72 copied them


Great minds think alike it seems. I have to admit i have never seen the four4th lights before but their designs are pretty sweet. I just wish I could buy octagonal bar stock to save machining it to shape as most extrusions seem to be hex.


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## Rekkie (May 26, 2011)

Nice build Brad!! Man I missed this forum. Gotta do some reading through all the threads. My light's components got stuck in a box somewhere after moving, think it's time I digg'em out and finish mine.

like the green btw.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Rekkie said:


> Nice build Brad!! Man I missed this forum. Gotta do some reading through all the threads. My light's components got stuck in a box somewhere after moving, think it's time I digg'em out and finish mine.
> 
> like the green btw.


Thanks for the compliment mate. The green looks fantastic in the flesh, much better than I would had thought it would. I can't wait to get some more colours done.

Hope you find your box of bits.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Here is the bar light with it's matching single aspheric helmet light light. Just like Goldigger's triple, it too had a baby


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## KonCorp (Nov 11, 2012)

What connectors and battery pack do you use? Great machine work, hopefully will have time to machine mine after the new year.


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## Muscleflex (Nov 23, 2012)

nice - you gonna sell some?


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

KonCorp said:


> What connectors and battery pack do you use? Great machine work, hopefully will have time to machine mine after the new year.


Hey mate, the connectors I used are no longer available but these 3 are the same.

Buy Industrial Automation Cable Assemblies Connector,circular,panel mount,M8,plug,4 way Hirschmann 933147001 online from RS for next day delivery.

Buy Industrial Automation Cable Assemblies Connector,circular,cable,jumper,M8,PUR,straight socket,4 way Hirschmann 934 555-010 online from RS for next day delivery.

Buy Sensor & Switch Cables & Connectors Female angled connector M8 x 1 4-way Binder 79-3384-42-04 online from RS for next day delivery.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Muscleflex said:


> nice - you gonna sell some?


I have sold quite a few in various configurations and colors. PM me if you are interested


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## Big Gags (Jan 8, 2013)

Hey Brad - awesome lights....would love to see them in the flesh!!!

Out of interest, what is your setup for anodising? Do you have a DIY setup at home or have you got access to commercial facilities.

Cheers,

Gags


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

Hey Brad

Are your lights now build in China?


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Big Gags said:


> Hey Brad - awesome lights....would love to see them in the flesh!!!
> 
> Out of interest, what is your setup for anodising? Do you have a DIY setup at home or have you got access to commercial facilities.
> 
> ...


Gags I have a DIY setup as seen in the picture below (old photo). Not hard to do at all as long as you follow the rules of anodizing which is mainly cleanliness of the part, ie no oil on the surface or fingerprints. The buckets of dye are not shown in the picture, nor are the immersion elements to heat the dyes, de-smut and de-greaser. Also my anidizing tank is now a 25L bucket and also has a fish aerator pump to keep the solution moving

I bought the acid from a pool shop and the other chemicals and dyes from Caswell. Most of us use the LCD method which works on lower currents and if you want I can send you a .pdf of the complete process if you like. There is also a good anodizing thread that was started early last year seen here https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/anodising-home-745450.html Certainly helps us all to share the failures and successes.

I keep waiting for the police to turn up as it looks like I'm operating a meth lab with all the buckets, respirator and long gloves  (I take personal safety as important just in case)


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

mrradlos said:


> Hey Brad
> 
> Are your lights now build in China?


I always wonder how many of our designs get copied. Dare I say mine looks better 

I do certainly wish I could manufacture a complete light with battery pack for $60 though. Must pay them with peanuts.


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## .40AET (Jun 7, 2007)

brad72 said:


> Here is the bar light with it's matching single aspheric helmet light light. Just like Goldigger's triple, it too had a baby


Awesome looking lights!!! If I only had.....a milling machine, a lathe, free time and some skills, I'd be ready to go.

Keep up the good work


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Thanks for the compliment mate...free time is one thing I'm lacking though these days. When did life get so busy


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