# I clyde noob, who didn’t know any better! !



## HAMP (Apr 3, 2012)

This mountain bike hobby is starting to piss me off. Don’t get me wrong, I still love riding. It’s just that after buying a bike, and finding this forum after the purchase, I am learning that upgrading is not very smart. It’s best and cheaper to buy the bike that has what you want and need.

My thing is, if I’m a noobie, how would I even know what I need or want.

Why is it so much cheaper to buy a bike as a whole, then upgrade. Why in the heck is the manufacture charging so much as an aftermarket item, but cost so cheaply as a bike package.

I mean, I can guess that the bike makers negotiate a price deal before building the bike, so that suck for aftermarket.

As you may have gather by now, that I am a noob, and at the time, I thought I was putting down some nice coin for my TREK Marlin. Since learning what I have seen finding this forum, that was some serious chump change for a amateur rider.

On here and talking with a bike tech guy at the TREK Store, I am finding out, some of my falls are because of the cheap piece of mess front fork I have, the crap one that came with the bike.

Yes I am calling it names now, and before now, I have to admit, when other told me, how much of a crap front fork I have, I was offended that they called my bike a cheap piece of mess. I was thinking what I paid wasn’t some pennies.


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## Huskywolf (Feb 8, 2012)

The enjoyment comes from riding, not the parts on a bike.

Don't let price tags on parts fool you about quality, if you can ride it have a blast on it!


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## debaucherous (Jul 2, 2004)

Good judgment comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgment. 

Welcome to the club.


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## HAMP (Apr 3, 2012)

Huskywolf said:


> The enjoyment comes from riding, not the parts on a bike.
> 
> Don't let price tags on parts fool you about quality, if you can ride it have a blast on it!


OOOOOOHHHHH Yes, I love the ride! ! ! It was almost bothering me about the prices. I just picked my bike up from the shop for a replacement front rim, because a lady hit my truck while the bike was on the rack.

Just doing a test ride outside the store, I was just riding and almost didn't come back to get my truck. So, loving the ride I don't think that will go anywhere. It's a healthy addictive drug.

I'm just shocked at the prices, and I thought 'Home Theater' Hobby was expensive(which it is).


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## HAMP (Apr 3, 2012)

debaucherous said:


> Good judgment comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgment.
> 
> Welcome to the club.


I suppose I have to look at it that way.


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## MtnHound (May 20, 2012)

Huskywolf said:


> The enjoyment comes from riding, not the parts on a bike.
> 
> Don't let price tags on parts fool you about quality, if you can ride it have a blast on it!


True that. I had a $279 Iron Horse bought from Sports Authority that I rode the crap out of. It was heavier than hell, but durable and fun to ride.


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## Jphill1301 (Jun 25, 2012)

I keep reading about different components for bikes regardless of from the factory or aftermarket. What are some good components for a Clyde bike? Dream parts


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## manmythlegend (May 21, 2012)

Its a small part of the hobby that bothers me. People like me are probably why upgrade prices are higher. I would prefer to buy then upgrade just for the information gathering / learning / DIY aspect to it. I agree though you really have to understand you're spending extra for THAT part if it and not truly getting your moneys worth in physical parts.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

HAMP said:


> On here and talking with a bike tech guy at the TREK Store, I am finding out, some of my falls are because of the cheap piece of mess front fork I have, the crap one that came with the bike.


If it makes you feel better, your falls are probably not because of the fork. It's because you are a new rider. Your bike is fine. Ride it like crazy.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

I did find that I crash more often in sharp turns because my flexy stock fork would wash out. Same turns, same speed or fast with the new fork and no crashes. I attribute that at least partially to a rock solid fork that have almost zero side flex. Other than those situations, I don't feel the fork was responsible for any of my other crashes or OTB's.


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## R+P+K (Oct 28, 2009)

HAMP said:


> OOOOOOHHHHH Yes, I love the ride! ! ! It was almost bothering me about the prices. I just picked my bike up from the shop for a replacement front rim, because a lady hit my truck while the bike was on the rack.
> 
> Just doing a test ride outside the store, I was just riding and almost didn&#146;t come back to get my truck. So, loving the ride I don&#146;t think that will go anywhere. It&#146;s a healthy addictive drug.
> 
> I&#146;m just shocked at the prices, and I thought &#145;Home Theater&#146; Hobby was expensive(which it is).


Manufacturers buy their components in bulk so they can drive the price right down with the suppliers. But when you're buying aftermarket, you are paying the retail price.

Don't feel bad about your bike. It's a nice bike and plenty of noobs start out with lesser bikes. Don't upgrade simply because some shop/guy/forum says you should. They aren't spending your money, you are. Upgrade if the parts aren't suitable for the task.


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## HAMP (Apr 3, 2012)

Bill in Houston said:


> If it makes you feel better, your falls are probably not because of the fork. It's because you are a new rider. Your bike is fine. Ride it like crazy.


Well, I was trying to put the blame somewhere else besides myself, I didn't want to look a complete idiot.  lol



R+P+K said:


> Manufacturers buy their components in bulk so they can drive the price right down with the suppliers. But when you're buying aftermarket, you are paying the retail price.
> 
> Don't feel bad about your bike. It's a nice bike and plenty of noobs start out with lesser bikes. Don't upgrade simply because some shop/guy/forum says you should. They aren't spending your money, you are. Upgrade if the parts aren't suitable for the task.


Oh, I do love it, I might have been gripping because of not having it for a week. After a lady ran into the back of my truck, while on the way to ride on a single track trail. She bent my rim.

Now that I have it back, I feel like that kid again, and just having fun riding it, and not a care in the world about spending money I don't have right now. 

I almost don't care that she gave me the wrong telephone number. She claimed she was going to reimburse for the parts.


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## Bethany1 (Jan 18, 2012)

HAMP said:


> This mountain bike hobby is starting to piss me off. Don't get me wrong, I still love riding. It's just that after buying a bike, and finding this forum after the purchase, I am learning that upgrading is not very smart. It's best and cheaper to buy the bike that has what you want and need.
> 
> My thing is, if I'm a noobie, how would I even know what I need or want.
> 
> ...


Don't feel bad. It came as a shock to me that I what I spent on my Mamba put me at the bottom end of the pool. I had to buy a fork for my son's Rockhopper because it was such low quality and I paid more for his bike than mine. Stupid fork shouldn't have cost so much either but the bike rides a zillion times better with the new one.

If you think pricing for basic bike parts are bad, I was looking at rims and tires for my Mukluk, a fat bike, and those aren't even close to cheap. If I ever need replacement parts, I'm gonna have to sell someone's arm and a leg to get them. It would probably be easier though to just charge admission fees for every guy that wants to ride my Mukluk when they see it. Just ride up to a park in Omaha and for 5 bucks let them ride it around the parking lot for a few minutes.

Enjoy your bike. If you need a fork, by all means look into getting one.

And don't like bike shops annoy you. They're "special" for a reason...LOL.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

HAMP said:


> Well, I was trying to put the blame somewhere else besides myself, I didn't want to look a complete idiot.  lol


Bubba, if crashing make a person an idiot, I am far far dumber than you. 



Bethany1 said:


> Don't feel bad. It came as a shock to me that I what I spent on my Mamba put me at the bottom end of the pool.


Yeah, it is astounding to me what you have to spend to get a decent bike, and even MORE astounding what you'd have to spend to get a bike that would be considered decent around here.

You really should charge admission for the mukluk. $1 per minute sounds right.


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## fiream400 (Apr 19, 2011)

OP, I bought the same bike, with the intention of fixing it up to at least Superfly AL specs, but most likely better and lighter. Will it cost me more than the superfly? Yes it will. Did I get the bike I wanted in an amazing bright green color? Yes I did. Plus you don't have to buy 2012 or 2013 parts; websites like jensonusa.com have some new 2010 parts, like bb7 brakes for 50 bucks. Buy parts here and there, put them on, learn how it all works, have fun.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Ahhh.....
Just ride and replace parts as they wear out or break, or you realise they are not good enough.


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## wake2dirt (Jul 22, 2008)

It's not about what bike you ride, it's about who can climb faster regardless of what bike you are riding.


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## fiream400 (Apr 19, 2011)

One more thing, replace the tires now. The 29-2 is supposed to be good in hard to slightly loose terrain but they wash out in corners very easily. I have a bit of experience with this tread pattern on my 26er wahoo which is almost the same component spec as the 12 Marlin. The most fun I was able to have on the trail with it is when I tried my buddie's xr3 tires and locked out the fork.


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## Jrock818 (Jun 25, 2012)

wake2dirt said:


> It's not about what bike you ride, it's about who can climb faster regardless of what bike you are riding.


+1 to that!


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## GOTA (Apr 21, 2011)

HAMP let me give you the positive side to your story. If I told you before you decided to start riding that as a clyde you would need to spend around $1,500 to buy a good hardtail would you have done it? Most of us would have said forget it and tried a different sport. 

Yes, you bought a bike with components that aren't going to hold up to your weight but the important thing is that you bought a bike and got into riding it. None of us know what we are going to be riding 5 years from now but will that $500 we spent on the first bike really matter to the big picture? It's just another expense in and expensive sport. Don't worry about it. Fix parts as they break and when you can get yourself a better bike. Until then just be happy that you made the decision to start riding and enjoy the summer.


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## HAMP (Apr 3, 2012)

fiream400 said:


> OP, I bought the same bike, with the intention of fixing it up to at least Superfly AL specs, but most likely better and lighter. Will it cost me more than the superfly? Yes it will. Did I get the bike I wanted in an amazing bright green color? Yes I did. Plus you don't have to buy 2012 or 2013 parts; websites like jensonusa.com have some new 2010 parts, like bb7 brakes for 50 bucks. Buy parts here and there, put them on, learn how it all works, have fun.


This was my plan after I learnt I was going to really be getting into off road trail riding. As I looked into some upgrading, that's when people were saying that I should have bought all of that upfront.

In my mind, I was thinking, how in the hell would I have known that if I'm new. How in the heck would I have known I needed a fork with 'Rebound Control' or whatever it's called. I thought a shock was a shock. 



fiream400 said:


> One more thing, replace the tires now. The 29-2 is supposed to be good in hard to slightly loose terrain but they wash out in corners very easily. I have a bit of experience with this tread pattern on my 26er wahoo which is almost the same component spec as the 12 Marlin. The most fun I was able to have on the trail with it is when I tried my buddie's xr3 tires and locked out the fork.


Ok, I will look into some better tires, I just need something for the streets and when I go on a trail.


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## HAMP (Apr 3, 2012)

Bill in Houston said:


> Bubba, if crashing make a person an idiot, I am far far dumber than you.


Well, I'm going to say we are the same, but I have flipped over my bars or fell each and every time I have went on a single trail, except the last time I didn't.

I ended up buying some knee and elbow pads, and that's when I didn't fall, so I haven't had a chance to practice with them yet...


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## HAMP (Apr 3, 2012)

wake2dirt said:


> It's not about what bike you ride, it's about who can climb faster regardless of what bike you are riding.





Jrock818 said:


> +1 to that!


I've had a little experience with this one on my first single track trail. I created a thread, I talked about my first time on a trail, and that was this year. In that thread I spoke of this 65yr old guy who dusted my azz going up a hill.

To make it worst, I was going slow and I know I slowed down his momentum, he was behind me and just telling me to just keep peddling. I got out of his way, and this guy flew by me like superman.


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## HAMP (Apr 3, 2012)

GOTA said:


> HAMP let me give you the positive side to your story. If I told you before you decided to start riding that as a clyde you would need to spend around $1,500 to buy a good hardtail would you have done it? Most of us would have said forget it and tried a different sport.
> 
> Yes, you bought a bike with components that aren't going to hold up to your weight but the important thing is that you bought a bike and got into riding it. None of us know what we are going to be riding 5 years from now but will that $500 we spent on the first bike really matter to the big picture? It's just another expense in and expensive sport. Don't worry about it. Fix parts as they break and when you can get yourself a better bike. Until then just be happy that you made the decision to start riding and enjoy the summer.


You are 100% correct, and those same thoughts were going thru my mind when I was picking my bike up from the repair shop.

I wouldn't have spent $1,500 for a bike. Actually I thought I was crazy for spending what I did, and for a fraction of time, I was thinking, why in the hell didn't I just goto to 'SEARS'.

My first thought was just riding around thru the neighborhood, and maybe getting on some of those 'Track to Trails', I had heard about. I didn't even know about the places we have here in Michigan to ride like I have been.

It was in one of my other forums I was talking about the bike I bought, and a friend gave me a link to a place near him, and it was for downhill racing or downhill something.

It made me look on the net for something similar near me, but I really couldn't gauge the idea, atleast not until I went on youtube and watched some video of places I could ride, and gotten all excited about trying it out.
Now that I know what I want and need, I'm glad I didn't goto SEARS&#8230; lol

But all in all, I still think it's a darn shame the aftermarket prices.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Go and order one thousand bike wheels. I'm sure you'll get a good discount. 

Just kidding but ... actually serious too. That's how it works.


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## fiream400 (Apr 19, 2011)

The xcaliber has the same frame/head tube as our bikes. Check around at bike shops in your area and watch ebay for a take off Rock Shox Reba fork from the xcal. It will keep the 51mm offset (read steering/handling) that your bike currently has and is a great fork. If you look at fox or any other brand forks, they will have less offset which will make your bike steer slower. Going to something like a 46mm offset increases your trail by about .25-.27 inches. It wouldn't be huge but would be noticeable. New 51mm offset forks are not only expensive, they usually have the tapered steerer. I'm just learning all this myself so I thought you should know as well.


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## HAMP (Apr 3, 2012)

perttime said:


> Go and order one thousand bike wheels. I'm sure you'll get a good discount.
> 
> Just kidding but ... actually serious too. That's how it works.


Reminds me of a questions I have had, why are some bike rims more costly then then some car rims?

I have seen some for I believe $3000


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## HAMP (Apr 3, 2012)

fiream400 said:


> The xcaliber has the same frame/head tube as our bikes. Check around at bike shops in your area and watch ebay for a take off Rock Shox Reba fork from the xcal. It will keep the 51mm offset (read steering/handling) that your bike currently has and is a great fork. If you look at fox or any other brand forks, they will have less offset which will make your bike steer slower. Going to something like a 46mm offset increases your trail by about .25-.27 inches. It wouldn't be huge but would be noticeable. New 51mm offset forks are not only expensive, they usually have the tapered steerer. I'm just learning all this myself so I thought you should know as well.


Thank you!! Good info for me. Heck I just learnt what the 51mm offset meant.

What about the term 'Tapered Steerer'?


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

HAMP said:


> Reminds me of a questions I have had, why are some bike rims more costly then then some car rims?


Because it's a ripoff. There is some precision and art to a really good hand-assembled wheel, though.


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## fiream400 (Apr 19, 2011)

HAMP said:


> Thank you!! Good info for me. Heck I just learnt what the 51mm offset meant.
> 
> What about the term 'Tapered Steerer'?


The shaft that comes off the top of the fork and the handlebars connect to is the steerer. Newer higher end bikes have a stiffer tapered shaft whereas our bikes have the older design straight shaft.


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## HAMP (Apr 3, 2012)

fiream400 said:


> The shaft that comes off the top of the fork and the handlebars connect to is the steerer. Newer higher end bikes have a stiffer tapered shaft whereas our bikes have the older design straight shaft.


Thank you for that info. I'm learning the terms and sayings of this hobby. This is a new hobby for me, and I'm loving it.

I call myself switching from one hobby to another but I have to admit, I have two hobbies now, one is Home Theater and this Mountain bike thing.

I shouldn't complain about prices, because Home theater is an expensive hobby, but his one isn't cheap. lol

I noticed something different about my bike since getting it back from the shop, and this may be part of my problem.

I would always pump up my tires to be rock hard before I go out riding or trail riding, and I think I am wrong about that process.

It would seem I should have a little sag in the tire pressure when I do some trail riding?

I always wanted the tires rock hard, because of my embarrassment of weight looking like I have far too much for the tires, and they looking the way they did.

It looks like the shop took air out of them, because of the front and back.


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## fiream400 (Apr 19, 2011)

Lighter guys can get away with mid 20s psi but to low can cause pinch flats, I weigh 270 and run between 30-40 psi. lower for loose terrain, higher for harder terrain or roads.


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## HAMP (Apr 3, 2012)

fiream400 said:


> Lighter guys can get away with mid 20s psi but to low can cause *pinch flats*, I weigh 270 and run between 30-40 psi. lower for loose terrain, higher for harder terrain or roads.


'Pinch flats', that's what the guy at the repair shop was explaining. Right now, I look forward to hitting the trail with my tires down a little compared to how hard I had them.

This site has been great with meeting great people like yourself with the help. :thumbsup:

I know I help a ton of people on the other site, so I have to say thanks when some don't... lol

You know, when I get down to 270lbs, I'm gonna talk mess about my weight lost... hehehehehehe


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## jpr99 (Mar 31, 2009)

I have to say I've been enjoying and reading this thread. I'm soon to become a new owner of a Marlin. Might hold out for the 2013 Marlin due to hit my LBS in the next few months. I like the red/black paint scheme on the new one. But I also like the Silver 2012 also. We shall see if there is a slight price drop on the 2012. I to am learning a lot about the certain things that need to get upgraded from the start. I know from my test ride that grips and pedals will be first to be charged. Looking at getting Ergon GP1's and Primo Tenderizer Pedals. After that we shall see. Maybe fork and brakes. First of all I just need to ride the bike like crazy.

Thanks again for all the info and input.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

HAMP said:


> why are some bike rims more costly then then some car rims?
> 
> I have seen some for I believe $3000


I haven't paid attention to that kind of high end... but I'd hazard a guess it is some sort of custom carbon fiber stuff, produced in small numbers. That would mean there's a lot of highly skilled work to produce just one.

Sometimes things get absolutely silly among the "Weight Weenies".


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Hubs end up being a major cost in wheels too. Consider Chris King hubs, A rear wheel with a CK will cost you I'd say $500+ just because the hubs is over $400 alone. Add in a $50-100 rim, spokes, nipples, labor, you could easily approach $550-600 for a single wheel.


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## freighttrain48 (Apr 30, 2012)

Nubster said:


> Hubs end up being a major cost in wheels too. Consider Chris King hubs, A rear wheel with a CK will cost you I'd say $500+ just because the hubs is over $400 alone. Add in a $50-100 rim, spokes, nipples, labor, you could easily approach $550-600 for a single wheel.


I paid 380 for my CK Hub If you go this route get a steel freehub body much stronger. Fork and wheelset upgrade will make a huge diff in how the bike rides its like night and day. My rocky mtn was $700 when i got it and had the same prob as your marlin, a pos fork and rim set. The first day I rode it I snapped a freehub body, After that I decided I would try and no pedal standing up on the first ring. I made it 3 weeks before snapping my second free hub. Thats when I ponyed up 675 ( total now 1375) for a better fork and wheelset. Only prob was I didnt want to spend crazy money for a rear hub so I bought a shimano slx rear hub. This hub was much nicer than stock but I blew out the freehub after 30 miles or so. Thats when I decided that enough is enough I have spent more time. waiting to get my bike back then riding it, so I ordered the ck hub after reading many threads here about clyde proof hubs. Factoring the price of the hub, a thomson seatpost ( bent 2 cheap ones) wider bars new tires and spd pedals my $700 dollar bike is now a $2k bike. I will tell you this I notice a huge difference in how the bike rides and as I get better I can always buy a lighter frame and swap all these parts over (except the seatpost next frame will not be 27.2mm seat post!)


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

freighttrain48 said:


> I paid 380 for my CK Hub If you go this route get a steel freehub body much stronger. Fork and wheelset upgrade will make a huge diff in how the bike rides its like night and day. My rocky mtn was $700 when i got it and had the same prob as your marlin, a pos fork and rim set. The first day I rode it I snapped a freehub body, After that I decided I would try and no pedal standing up on the first ring. I made it 3 weeks before snapping my second free hub. Thats when I ponyed up 675 ( total now 1375) for a better fork and wheelset. Only prob was I didnt want to spend crazy money for a rear hub so I bought a shimano slx rear hub. This hub was much nicer than stock but I blew out the freehub after 30 miles or so. Thats when I decided that enough is enough I have spent more time. waiting to get my bike back then riding it, so I ordered the ck hub after reading many threads here about clyde proof hubs. Factoring the price of the hub, a thomson seatpost ( bent 2 cheap ones) wider bars new tires and spd pedals my $700 dollar bike is now a $2k bike. I will tell you this I notice a huge difference in how the bike rides and as I get better I can always buy a lighter frame and swap all these parts over (except the seatpost next frame will not be 27.2mm seat post!)


That's it...good parts can be looked at as an investment and most can be used on other bikes. Rear derailleur, shifters, seat, wheels, brakes, forks, ect.


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## masonmoa (Jul 11, 2011)

Well, after reading all this, thought I'd let you know that be thankful you didn't spend $2500 on a stock GF Hifi like I did a couple of years ago only to discover that it was in no way a bike for my weight and riding style. The suspension design was not friendly to a 300+ clyde and I went through 3 freehubs in 2 months on before I did what Freighttrain did and got me a steal CK hub. I even bought another used Stumpjumper too because I wanted something to ride while the GF was in the shop all the time and second ride on it I blew out the DT Swiss freehub and then I also found out that a Stumpy is not a good clyde bike either! Talk about a buzz kill.


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## fiream400 (Apr 19, 2011)

Hey Hamp and jpr99, got some info for you. I just found out the Trek Rig runs a g2 51mm offset Fox fork with a non tapered steerer. This would be the best bet to search for if you want to upgrade the fork and keep the factory handling. A new 2011 one just popped up on ebay and I jumped on it.

One other thing, new forks come with long steerers that are cut down to your bike's requirements. The 12 (and probably 13) Marlin uses a 7.25" steerer. If you find one off of a Rig it will already be the correct length.


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## jpr99 (Mar 31, 2009)

Thanks for the info Fiream. The type of riding I'll be doing will primarily be rail riding I guess it's called. Basically a long flat loose gravel trail that goes for many many miles. No hills, bumps or crazy down hill riding just yet. Once I have shed the millions of lbs I need to lose. Then I will look into some of the more crazy type of riding.

So what you are saying is search for a g2 51mm offset fork on the bay?


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## fiream400 (Apr 19, 2011)

ebay or local bike shops, These don't come up often. RockShox Reba forks are easier to find in the g2 configuration but I'm a bit biased towards Fox from back in my motorcycle days.


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## freighttrain48 (Apr 30, 2012)

jpr99 said:


> Thanks for the info Fiream. The type of riding I'll be doing will primarily be rail riding I guess it's called. Basically a long flat loose gravel trail that goes for many many miles. No hills, bumps or crazy down hill riding just yet. Once I have shed the millions of lbs I need to lose. Then I will look into some of the more crazy type of riding.
> 
> So what you are saying is search for a g2 51mm offset fork on the bay?


You may want to consider a ridgid fork for the time being if this is the riding you want to do. they are a lot lighter and cheaper and all you would need for those kind of trails. just a thought ymmv


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## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

The fork on your bike isn't crap, you're just too heavy for it. 

Plus, this sport isn't that expensive. Be glad you're not into fwd drag racing, where a motor alone can cost upwards of 5 grand.


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## HAMP (Apr 3, 2012)

jpr99 said:


> Thanks for the info Fiream. The type of riding I'll be doing will primarily be rail riding I guess it's called. Basically a long flat loose gravel trail that goes for many many miles. No hills, bumps or crazy down hill riding just yet. Once I have shed the millions of lbs I need to lose. Then I will look into some of the more crazy type of riding.
> 
> So what you are saying is search for a g2 51mm offset fork on the bay?


Hey jpr99, When you get your bike, you should try what I did. I looked on youtube for trails in my area, and made a judgment call if they were easy of enough for me to try for the first time. Plenty of people want to record their experience on the trials and upload them to youtube.

Even if the trail looks to crazy, most of the trials have a easier path for beginners. I had started another thread awhile ago about my first experience and I LOVED IT. Although I seem to fall each time I go, but it's just fun as hell.

the other thread:
http://forums.mtbr.com/clydesdales-tall-riders/first-mountian-trail-789827.html


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## bongo_x (Aug 20, 2006)

I’ll second what masonmoa said. It wouldn’t make any sense for a beginner to go out and buy a $1500 bike, you don’t know what you want.

This is the way it works. You buy something cheap, see if you like it, move up. If the bones are good you upgrade, if not you start over with something better. There is no shortcut. It’s the same if you were buying a guitar, whatever. Only a fool buys something expensive when they don’t know that they’re doing. There is no "Best", there is only what works for you, and you can’t know what that is until you ride.


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## ogso (Aug 4, 2012)

This may to old a thread to comment on but... I've been riding since the late 80's and other than the original fork and frame I have been riding while upgrading that same bike. Started riding when I was 235 then up to 300 to a current and decreasing 260. And at 53 I nowhere near pound the frame like when I was young and would ride down flights of stairs when I was in college or jump the local farm canals. One day I will have that Salsa but until then ride to failure!


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## bigwooly (Aug 14, 2012)

parts are expensive but as long as the bones of the bike you're upgrading are solid. The parts are often worth the expense and it also feels good to be able to strut with your chest puffed out and say yep i did that!


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