# Big Dummy Build Tips ?



## funkydrum (Mar 10, 2007)

Any do's / don'ts build tips from Big Dummies owners ?

I just picked up my frame tonight and am giddy !! I'm spraying the frame with J.P Weigle tomorrow and gathering components from my shop.

Super excited for the build after debating the B.D. / Radish choice for WAY too long...


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## Schmucker (Aug 23, 2007)

Things I've learned. 

Freeloaders ****ing blow. Buy BOB Dry Saks to put in them ASAP. Freeloaders don't hold ****.
Add cinch straps from the lower frame all the way up to the top of the V-racks. The freeloaders flop out without them and it's annoying. 
Passengers really do need a magic carpet. I used vintage NOS GT Fork standers instead of the overpriced footsies. Now they're always there and ready to go if necessary.
Get a roll of the double sided velcro tape. It's awesome for customizing your strapping.
Get a couple of cheap ratchet straps. Go to Harbor Freight or something. You really don't need much of a weight limit since you'll never really exceed it.
Make the wheels beefy and abuse the **** out of it like it's supposed to. That's what I do. Running strong.


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## funkydrum (Mar 10, 2007)

Schmucker said:


> Things I've learned.
> 
> Freeloaders ****ing blow. Buy BOB Dry Saks to put in them ASAP. Freeloaders don't hold ****.
> Add cinch straps from the lower frame all the way up to the top of the V-racks. The freeloaders flop out without them and it's annoying.
> ...


Good stuff. Keep it coming...


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

i tend to break kickstands too often.
so i simply lean the Dummy on its Wideloaders... consequently, I've lined the Wideloaders with old road tyres...


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## Sloan (May 31, 2006)

funkydrum said:


> Any do's / don'ts build tips from Big Dummies owners ?
> 
> I just picked up my frame tonight and am giddy !! I'm spraying the frame with J.P Weigle tomorrow and gathering components from my shop.
> 
> Super excited for the build after debating the B.D. / Radish choice for WAY too long...


Thanks for the frame saver tip, I caught the guy building mine just in time before he started assembling the Dummy.


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## superjohnny (Aug 5, 2005)

Schmucker said:


> Things I've learned.
> 
> Freeloaders ****ing blow. Buy BOB Dry Saks to put in them ASAP. Freeloaders don't hold ****.
> Add cinch straps from the lower frame all the way up to the top of the V-racks. The freeloaders flop out without them and it's annoying.
> ...


Schmucker can you post pics of your setup? I'm interested in seeing the fork standers. Not an easy item to find btw... I agree the footsies things seem silly. Surly also has some tips in their blog post about the Dummy here: http://surlybikes.com/blog/spew/spew_19_big_dummy/


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

wideloaders, work just fine as footsies, especially with some kind of "grip" wrapped around them, like old road bike tyres.

honestly...

one bummer with a longtail cargo bike, is the loading.
i've broken 3 kickstands 
i use the kickstand only when i don't need to load it so much.
the best method is to lay it on it's wideloader.

if the wideloader is wrapped in something, like a road bike tyre...
laying it on its side is "nice"<---- for lack of better descriptive (???)

plus
when/if you carry a passenger, the bar of the WideLoader, being already wrapped, works just as well as footsies

but of course, they are WideLoaders
not as slim as "not having Wideloaders"
that is...
wideloaders are much wider than the dummy with only footsies...


OH!!!

you will more than likely appreciate a "stoker bar"
not so much for a passenger

but really...
so that you'll have an extra handlebar to grab hold of when it comes time to wrassle your rig.

that is...
the extra handlebar is great for moving your bike around.
whether its rolling it down a set of stairs
or simply
maintaining control of it while its loaded, and you have to walk it down a hall or something.

stoker bar!
you want it.

i simply used an old stem, and bar
a 1" & 1/8" stem with a shim to fit 27.2mm <---- seatpost diameter 

all edges of bike, i make smooth
that is... reduce things to snag on
like...
rubber handlebar grips.... put a plastic cap on them or something.
this way, to reduce chances of something catching on your bike...

like...
parked bike, someone walks by, "oh look... cool bike"
they stop and stare, or just pass by
maybe some clothing catches the bar... like a shirt, or dress, or some little kid...
and the bike falls over...
maybe the bike is loaded with 50lbs of stuff, and it smashes someone's grandma, or someone's kid....


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

superjohnny said:


> Schmucker can you post pics of your setup? I'm interested in seeing the fork standers. Not an easy item to find btw... I agree the footsies things seem silly. Surly also has some tips in their blog post about the Dummy here: http://surlybikes.com/blog/spew/spew_19_big_dummy/


that "spew" is a great reference!

attention: Suspension
and keep in mind the weight distribution

I have yet to put a suspension fork on my dummy... it seems that it would be really expensive to get a good fork that i'd feel would be reliable... i can imagine $600 for a suspension fork, and of course it needs to be able to handle adjustments.

i.e. I weigh 170lbs... how in the heck is a suspension fork going to handle adding 50lbs?
i mean... is there even a fork on the market that can handle "on the fly" preload adjustments in that wide of a range?
then, would you really even want it?

sometimes i do think of it tho...


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## mangoman (Oct 25, 2005)

Took me quite a while to get mine fitted properly. It's an 18" and I'm 5'8", 175 pounds, and I finally found that being more upright was better for me. Now I can (and do) ride this monster all day.

One of those tweaks in the cockpit was the bars. I went through a few, including different stem stack heights, too. Settled on the swept-back Jones H-Bar, Loop version, and it's a winner:










You can see how high my stack is in this photo:










At some point, I might remove a few spacers, add my Ahearne bottle opener, and be done with it, but, generally, this feels great. So...my advice is to be flexible and willing to make adjustments to your setup over time...I know that sounds painfully obvious. However,* the Dummy's cool/fun factor will overwhelm you in the first few hundred miles (or more) and it's easy to overlook the nuances of a well-tweaked fit.*

And here's my build spec's, for what it's worth:










More than anything, as it's mentioned above, USE IT!


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

ghetto style
recycled style
DIY
call it what you want

road tyres on WideLoaders...


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## superjohnny (Aug 5, 2005)

Hmmm, not ghetto at all Devo... that's good work there.


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

superjohnny said:


> Hmmm, not ghetto at all Devo... that's good work there.


if I was super ultra...
I'd pull the kevlar bead out of a folding tyre
and use it to lace the carcass to the wideloaders, using an awl
a la steering-wheel-esq method

or maybe something a kin 
to sewing buck skin with a bone and sinew 
but rather use an old spoke and kevlar bead...


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## superjohnny (Aug 5, 2005)

SelfPropelledDevo said:


> OH!!!
> 
> you will more than likely appreciate a "stoker bar"
> not so much for a passenger
> ...


A couple questions... what did you use as a shim?

Also, do those folks running fenders find them near impossible to install? It doesn't appear that the fender mounts on the frame are tapped for 5mm screws. Is that just my frame or are they all that way? I bought the Planet Bike Hardcore fenders and find the rear fender will need to be modified in order to run it on the Dummy. Anyone else having trouble with fenders? What did you do?


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

I'm using Casadias
they were easy to mount
the rear fender... yes, I used a dremel tool & a pair of diagonal pliers to cut away a section to clear the chain.

in general, fenders require some custom work.


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

*good timing*

good timing, as it turns out, I've got the dummy here today, along with my digi cam.

these fenders are Planet Bike Cascadias
i just used the provided hardware
at times I used a Dremel tool to cut, smooth, etc...

the rear fender is the trickiest
of course cutting the section for the chain
and my personal set up, was to set the fender as high up as possible, which = the fender hitting the SnapDeck, which = putting something on the fender or snapdeck to reduce/eliminate a rattle if it occurs.

my personal view of the situation is that i want a decent gap between the tyre and fender, as to make room for any debris that the tyres may pick up. like twigs. bcz i have a tendency to ride the bike in the dirt.

at the moment I'm using:
(f) Tioga DH 2.5" 
(r) Intense 2.25" crosscountry

i have a set of Kenda 2.5" Short Trackers that i use front and rear.
the rear tyre may rub the fender when an adult passenger is sitting on the snapdeck.
its a close fit, and sometimes debris gets caught up, which i typically just keep riding, until its no longer an issue. if i hear something in the spokes, I stop right away.

so there you go...
fender pics.

oh ya....

you'll probably want to bow out the fender stabilizers, particularly in the rear, as to avoid them from rattling against the bike.


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

superjohnny said:


> A couple questions... what did you use as a shim?


for a shim i used a "seatpost shim"
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=914
914-2217 (item number) PS Seatpost Shim 27.2 - 28.6

27.2mm being the seatpost diameter
28.6mm = 1 & 1/8"

another Dremel tool job.

first i place the shim on the bike, etc...
ride around a little get someone to sit on the bike, etc..
and make sure i actually like the way its mounted.

then I marked the shim with a fine Sharpie
used a saw guide (steer tube saw guide), to make a nice cut.
then used the Dremel to smooth off any edges.

on my bike, I'm using an old Syncros stem, and its mounted upside down
which is in effort to reduce any sharp edges which is potential for injury.

if you look at the set up
you can see the top of this shim above the stem
when you get the shim, its longer than the stack height of a stem
so you have to cut it.
when i cut the shim, i cut it about 1mm shorter than the stack height of the stem
and smooth the shim out, with a Dremel, or round file
as to "hide" that sharp edge.
plus its on the lower section.

everything i do on a bike (mechanically)
i keep in mind "injury"
anything that can end up jamming into someone, is not good.
sharp edges are not good.

even the ends of the grips, are plugged off with plastic caps, to avoid something catching on them.

the stoker bar I have, is an old Kestrel carbon/kevlar weave.
the grips are Oury, that i had re-used from a GripShift setup, therefor they are short.
so i wrapped the bar with electrical tape a few times, to increase the diameter of the bar, and then slid the grips over the tape, which makes the grips "oversize", and they never slip. I used Boeshield T9 chain lube to slip them on... which is what i use for chain lube.
the grips are slid inward enough to expose the ends of the carbon bar.

when the bike is laid on its side, or if it falls over...
it hits the stoker bar, or lays on the end of the bar.

so the contact is
front handlebar
stoker bar
pedal

that is pretty much the gig.

if you use WidLoaders... i've wrapped mine with old road tyres... which gives it yet another "bumper car-esq" feature.

lates...d


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## mangoman (Oct 25, 2005)

Here's a shot of my rear Hardcore fender, as it attaches to the frame:










It bolts into the frame just fine, but I ended up bending that metal tab back on itself (see the photo) since it was in the way. At least, it seemed to be in the way. Maybe I did something wrong.

A thousand miles later, it seems to be holding up just fine.

Also, I taped up my frame, under the bags where the fender supports and bags will rub against the frame:










The tape is called Magic Tape, I think. Use it or any of the self-sealing plumbers tape. Also holding up very well with extended mileage. Granted, not Devo Abuse & Mileage, but...it's holding up. :thumbsup:


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

you can drill out that rivet from the metal bracket on the rear fender, and remove the bracket.
drill from the back

another thought has been to use shrink wrap on the ends of the fender stabilizers


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

i've seen other longtails with a short stoker bar...
you don't have to use a long bar.

i simply did not want to cut that carbon bar
and i actually end up using the leverage to pick up the bike when its loaded.


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## luckylarue (Oct 15, 2008)

How about alternatives to the footsies when not using the wide-loaders? Simple, short pegs or something? I just ordered up an OD green frameset - super-stoked! Thanks to all the Dummy vets for your sage advice.


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

luckylarue said:


> How about alternatives to the footsies when not using the wide-loaders? Simple, short pegs or something? I just ordered up an OD green frameset - super-stoked! Thanks to all the Dummy vets for your sage advice.


BD frame has "built in footsies"
notice the "looped" out section of the frame behind where Footsies would attach.
you can simply wrap that looped out section of frame with some friction tape, etc...

or yes... opt for something different.


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## luckylarue (Oct 15, 2008)

Right...the Footsies are way spendy. I'm trying to decide which xtracycle package kit to get with primary Dummy usage being running my soon-to-be 5 yr-old to & from day-care/school, and hauling my tools to work. Come to think of it, I doubt her feet will even reach the footsies at this point. I'm thinking Magic Carpet, Stoker bar (w/ pink sparkly grips. of course) & Wide Loaders to start.Then eventually a long-loader.


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

you might try an old pair of bar ends, clamped to the V-racks, above where the Footsies would be. 

wrap in some kind of grip tape stuff...

maybe?


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## Schmucker (Aug 23, 2007)

Motorcycle pegs that fit 1" tubes would work too. You can get them through JC Whitney.

I don't like using the wide loaders for foot pegs. I always catch my heel under them when waddling the bike about or trying to start out.


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## Sloan (May 31, 2006)

DO NOT go on a 20 mile shakedown run without tools. I am not sure WTF I was thinking but, I stopped to grab a coffee about halfway through and the cap fell off of the Surly cranks. I picked it up and thought to myself, "I remember someone mentioning these falling of on the mtbr forum." About a mile or so later she started shifting funny and I looked down to see my left crank trying to exit the bike. After cursing myself for no tools, I proceeded on my 6 mile walk of shame home. My first question is, "How do you keep the Surly cranks on the bike?" After doing the 20 on the BD I now understand why Devo is so skinny, that thing is a workout. I also had to learn to embrace my inner cruising spirit, because the BD is a kick in the pants but she does not rip.


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## funkydrum (Mar 10, 2007)

How about low-friction cable housing for derailleur / rear-brake.

Anyone bother with it or just plain housing ?


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

funkydrum said:


> How about low-friction cable housing for derailleur / rear-brake.
> 
> Anyone bother with it or just plain housing ?


i used plain stainless steel cables...
some fancy low-friction types, I'm sure would be nice.


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## NHpug (Mar 30, 2007)

*What FD and BB?*

OK, I'm going to jump in and buy a BD. The only parts I think I need to make the switch from the Xtracycle are a front derailleur and a BB. FD is a top swing, yes? What works best with MTB gearing - say 44-32-22? And I think I'll be using the Shimano Deore XT square taper 94-58 BCD cranks from the Klein, but the Klein BB is a press-in so I need a BB. What are folks using? I'm thinking Phil Wood but don't know the length to get and whether it's symmetrical or asymmetrical.

Thanks for all the GREAT help on this message board!!!

Marc


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## NHpug (Mar 30, 2007)

*PS: Thanks Martinsillo!*

Thanks for the tip about Taylor Bike shop. Not free shipping east of the Mississippi, but $20! So a Dummy frame for $620.60!


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

FD, yes top swing
44/32/22... good
a 34t on the cogset would be nice

Shimano UN26 Bottom Bracket
English 68x117.5mm

Truvativ ISOFlow 3.0 Square Taper Crankset
175mm 22/32/44t (Pitch Black)


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## NHpug (Mar 30, 2007)

*Thanks!*

Thanks very much for this detail



SelfPropelledDevo said:


> FD, yes top swing
> 44/32/22... good
> a 34t on the cogset would be nice
> 
> ...


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

:thumbsup:


NHpug said:


> Thanks very much for this detail


dummy up!


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## NHpug (Mar 30, 2007)

*wheel rims?*

The front wheel on my Xtracycle is a SON hub built to a Sun Rhyno Lite rim. I'm going to have the rear wheel for the BD built up on a Rohloff hub I got for cheap last year (couldn't pass up the price and now I have a place to put it!). What rim should I get? Is the Rhyno Lite rugged enough (Rohloff having symmetrical flanges, makes a strong wheel)? Other options might be the Velocity Deep V or Mavic EX729.

opinions, please!

Thanks!

Marc


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## mangoman (Oct 25, 2005)

NHpug said:


> The front wheel on my Xtracycle is a SON hub built to a Sun Rhyno Lite rim. I'm going to have the rear wheel for the BD built up on a Rohloff hub I got for cheap last year (couldn't pass up the price and now I have a place to put it!). What rim should I get? Is the Rhyno Lite rugged enough (Rohloff having symmetrical flanges, makes a strong wheel)? Other options might be the Velocity Deep V or Mavic EX729.
> 
> opinions, please!
> 
> ...


My Dummy's Rohloff is laced to a Mavic EX721, FWIW. Same up front where the SON hub lives. Peter White built 'em.


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## NHpug (Mar 30, 2007)

*Thanks, Mangoman!*

PJW Cycles is who I'm speaking with. They bult the SON front wheel. His site doesn't show the EX721 but he does say that Mavic changes the designations frequently enough that he can't keep up.

Is it so that the Rohloff uses the OEM2 axle plate on the BD but doesn't need the Speedbone or Monkey bone or whatever they call it?

Any tips on installing the Rohloff in the BD will be gratefully appreciated, including pointing me to where you or others have written about it. It appears that unlike the Free Radical it isn't necessary to run a 203mm rotor on the BD. Which is good 'cuz my used Rohloff came with a 160mm rotor....



mangoman said:


> My Dummy's Rohloff is laced to a Mavic EX721, FWIW. Same up front where the SON hub lives. Peter White built 'em.


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## NHpug (Mar 30, 2007)

*Mangoman, which spokes?*

Did PW use the regular 14/16 Wheelsmith spokes or the xtra heavy duty 13/14 ones?

Thanks!


mangoman said:


> My Dummy's Rohloff is laced to a Mavic EX721, FWIW. Same up front where the SON hub lives. Peter White built 'em.


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## mangoman (Oct 25, 2005)

NHpug:

Y'know...I'm not sure. It's a 36-hole rim (FWIW), and the PW receipt lists the spokes as "Wheelsmith DB 14". That mean anything to you?


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## NHpug (Mar 30, 2007)

*yep*

The DB14 spokes are the 14/16 gauge spokes, the ones PW normally uses. The rim I think is probably 32 hole because I think that's the only way the Rohloff is made (?) The SON could be 36 spokes.



mangoman said:


> NHpug:
> 
> Y'know...I'm not sure. It's a 36-hole rim (FWIW), and the PW receipt lists the spokes as "Wheelsmith DB 14". That mean anything to you?


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## mangoman (Oct 25, 2005)

NHpug said:


> The DB14 spokes are the 14/16 gauge spokes, the ones PW normally uses. The rim I think is probably 32 hole because I think that's the only way the Rohloff is made (?) The SON could be 36 spokes.


On the rim holes...yes, 32 on the rear for the Rohloff. Sorry. Tired...but thankfully tired from a hard ride tonight on the Trucker!


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

NHpug said:


> . It appears that unlike the Free Radical it isn't necessary to run a 203mm rotor on the BD. Which is good 'cuz my used Rohloff came with a 160mm rotor....


a 203 rear rotor is a pain on the BD
I'm using a 185

the issue with a 203 rear rotor is the caliper adaptor
that is the caliper adaptor for 203 is tall enough to put the caliper (Avid BB5) so close to the dummy frame, that its difficult to put a wrench to the centering bolts.

a 185 is easier to work with.
that is, a wrench fits


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## anotherbrian (Mar 18, 2005)

I had no trouble using a 203 rotor on my BD. I do have a set of ball-end hex keys so that might account for the non-issue of the install.

I use the rear brake predominantly; Surly's instructions warn about folding the fork with too much front brake, and the amount of fork flex visible under my ~225 pounds + cargo reinforces it. The 203mm rotor may be overkill for riding on the flats, but on steep downhills (I live at the top of a hill) it is a pleasure to be able to drag.

= = =

Early in the thread, someone asked if the fender mounts were standard. They are standard metric bolt threads (M5?), but I found mine were really really packed up with paint that made installing the FreeLoaders and fenders impossible. I chased all the threads on the frame and everything mounted up easily afterwards.



SelfPropelledDevo said:


> a 203 rear rotor is a pain on the BD
> I'm using a 185
> 
> the issue with a 203 rear rotor is the caliper adaptor
> ...


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## superjohnny (Aug 5, 2005)

anotherbrian said:


> Early in the thread, someone asked if the fender mounts were standard. They are standard metric bolt threads (M5?), but I found mine were really really packed up with paint that made installing the FreeLoaders and fenders impossible. I chased all the threads on the frame and everything mounted up easily afterwards.


Yea I spoke with Aaron at Surly and he's got me sorted out. I think I just got lucky. They are M5x.8 thread. For some reason my frame didn't get the fender braze-on's tapped I gotta get that fixed. I'm temped to do it myself, but I'd hate to mess it up.


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## Sloan (May 31, 2006)

Schmucker said:


> Things I've learned.
> 
> Freeloaders ****ing blow. Buy BOB Dry Saks to put in them ASAP. Freeloaders don't hold ****.
> Add cinch straps from the lower frame all the way up to the top of the V-racks. The freeloaders flop out without them and it's annoying.
> ...


I can't find specs on the size of BOB bags, how many of them fit in the freeloaders?


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

http://www.biketrailershop.com/catalog/160-bob-drysak-p-49.html
5600 cubic inches/ 94 liters.

easily
1 on each side
plus another up top, or two up top if you put the widthwise
and of course panniers....

on a personal note:
BOB trailer bags have a black end, which is flat
and a yellow end, which is more rounded.
for visibility, put the yellow ends towards the rear


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## Sloan (May 31, 2006)

Thanks for the pics Devo, holy crap that sucker is loaded down. On a side note I put the Xtarcycle Pea Pod on the BD today and it's pretty sweet. The flight deck is a lot stronger than the wooden one and the super hooks are aluminum and reach farther around the freeloader bars and clamp down really nice. I don't know if Xtracycle is going to offer them for sale outside of the pea pod package but they should.


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## mangoman (Oct 25, 2005)

Sloan said:


> Thanks for the pics Devo, holy crap that sucker is loaded down. On a side note I put the Xtarcycle Pea Pod on the BD today and it's pretty sweet. The flight deck is a lot stronger than the wooden one and the super hooks are aluminum and reach farther around the freeloader bars and clamp down really nice. I don't know if Xtracycle is going to offer them for sale outside of the pea pod package but they should.


Thanks for posting the PeaPod/FlightDeck shot, Sloan. Xtracycle will be offering this new deck and hooks separately-hopefully soon!

My understanding is the FlightDeck is heavier than the wood version, which makes sense.

And, uh...nice ride BEHIND the BD, too! :thumbsup:


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## mangoman (Oct 25, 2005)

SelfPropelledDevo said:


> http://www.biketrailershop.com/catalog/160-bob-drysak-p-49.html
> 5600 cubic inches/ 94 liters.
> 
> easily
> ...


You remain the Mighty Wizard. The Sensei.

Ever thought about making/selling your way fine custom decks? I remember when you were building that one and thinking how much I'd love to have something like it...


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## Sloan (May 31, 2006)

mangoman said:


> Thanks for posting the PeaPod/FlightDeck shot, Sloan. Xtracycle will be offering this new deck and hooks separately-hopefully soon!
> 
> My understanding is the FlightDeck is heavier than the wood version, which makes sense.
> 
> And, uh...nice ride BEHIND the BD, too! :thumbsup:


Thanks, THAT ride just got a new Edelbrock carb and Mopar electronic ignition, new brakes and next up is a rebuilt front end. I wanted to get some opinions on this bag, http://www.pacsafe.com/www/index.php?_room=3&_action=detail&id=42 What I am worried about is that sometimes when I run multiple errands it isn't possible to route it so that the one with the biggest load is last.


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Oct 2, 2005)

mangoman said:


> You remain the Mighty Wizard. The Sensei.
> 
> Ever thought about making/selling your way fine custom decks? I remember when you were building that one and thinking how much I'd love to have something like it...


I have a buddy who makes surf boards, and lately we've been collaborating on a home made bamboo bike, along with all that garb, we've been looking at a snapdeck. plus a million other things...
The Dummy is one of those bikes that simply makes your spin.


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## JunkShip (Apr 23, 2009)

mangoman said:


> Took me quite a while to get mine fitted properly. It's an 18" and I'm 5'8", 175 pounds, and I finally found that being more upright was better for me. Now I can (and do) ride this monster all day.
> 
> One of those tweaks in the cockpit was the bars. I went through a few, including different stem stack heights, too. Settled on the swept-back Jones H-Bar, Loop version, and it's a winner:


Is that the BD fork with that much steer tube height? That looks alot longer then what is shown in earlier shots on your flickr set. I have been looking for a fork with a long steer tube. According to Universal Cycles, the BD fork comes with a 260mm steer tube, but that looks longer.


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## mangoman (Oct 25, 2005)

That's an uncut Big Dummy steerer tube on an 18" frame. I set it up that way...and really love the fit. I could definitely take spacers out and trim it down, but I'm in no rush and not sure that I ever will. It just fits so well the way it currently stacks up, as goofy as it might look.


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## agentrem (Dec 29, 2009)

*Derailleur Guard?*

Which Derailleur Guard are you using? Great idea to protect from rubbing! Thanks



SelfPropelledDevo said:


> a 203 rear rotor is a pain on the BD
> I'm using a 185
> 
> the issue with a 203 rear rotor is the caliper adaptor
> ...


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