# Best hardtail trail bike



## V8Interceptor (Aug 24, 2014)

I'm wondering what would be the best hardtail trail bike for a 275 lb Clyde? I'm really looking for some strong wheels, as I plan on hitting the trails hard.


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## H_Bomb (Aug 2, 2013)

Look at the Canfield brothers Nimble 9. Major fun.


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## Dawgprimo (Mar 7, 2004)

Chromag makes a solid frame


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## Bttocs (Jun 21, 2014)

Take a look at the Airborne Goblin Evo bike. Great price for what you get and a really nice bike.


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## mark! (Jun 1, 2012)

If you're going to hit the trails "hard" you're likely NOT going to find a set of wheels that come stock on a big brand bike that are going to hold up all season long. I've had Bontrager, and WTB (2x) stock wheel sets on bikes I've bought all get beat up under my 280lb body. The bontragers failed under what I would consider normal riding conditions, they were single walled rims on my very first bike. 

If your Stache 8 came with the Dusters, I've heard some decent things about them. I rode my WTB i19's until the front get dinged pretty bad after taking a bad line on a gnarly drop, I took the jump and upgraded to Stans Flow EX wheel set. I've endo'd with all of my weight on the front tire, the rear tire nearly hitting me in the ass on a rocky drop and thought "there goes that wheel". Much to my surprise, it's still very true with no loose spokes.


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## Balto78 (Oct 1, 2013)

You have a brand new Stache, which is a hardtail trail bike. So I guess there's something about it that you don't love and you want to replace it, or you want to have a second hardtail trail bike to do something different. Maybe if you explained what it was that you're looking for that the Stache isn't giving you, you'd get better answers.

If it's just the wheels you're concerned with, it seems kind of silly to get a whole new bike; just get new wheels.

I pringled my front wheel (also on a Stache) and got a replacement made by mikesee (forum member) at lacemine29.com. He has a good reputation, and he was great to work with. The wheel is only a couple months old, and I'm not Mr. Hardcore, but it has been great so far.

Edit: But to actually answer your question, if I had an unlimited budget to spend on a hardtail trail bike, I'd make a real effort to try out a Canfield Nimble 9 to see if I liked it.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

budget ?


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

i'm 6'8" & the last time i stepped on a scale, was about 270; I love my 9:Zero:7 fatbike. it's a little more than hardtail, though... i ride it between 60-100 miles per week over a lot of technical gnar: roots, rocks and copious logs and my 26x65mm Marge Lite rims have been nearly indestructible. With a 69º HTA & a dropper post, the geometry is definitely trail-oriented and climbs & descends extremely well. I race it XC and next weekend will be entering a CX race with it.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

Gigantic said:


> i'm 6'8" & the last time i stepped on a scale, was about 270; I love my 9:Zero:7 fatbike. it's a little more than hardtail, though... i ride it between 60-100 miles per week over a lot of technical gnar: roots, rocks and copious logs and my 26x65mm Marge Lite rims have been nearly indestructible. With a 69º HTA & a dropper post, the geometry is definitely trail-oriented and climbs & descends extremely well. I race it XC and next weekend will be entering a CX race with it.


What cranks do you have on the bad boy ?


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

JohnFL said:


> What cranks do you have on the bad boy ?


Raceface Turbines.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

sweet bike !


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Dusters and 275lbs clyde riders. . . . . . Yeah. . . . . No es bueno IMHO. Dusters would be a ways down my list of wheels for riders that size. They are 28h, and the ones that came on the 2014 Stache 8 (tested for TNIdotCOM) had straight gauge 15g (1.8mm) spokes. Took me three weeks of test riding to ugly them up.

My recommendations for (big = >250lbs) clydes: 

32 or 36 spokes - butted 14/15/14 (2.0/1.8/2.0)

Brass nipples

No weight weenie rims

If you're really strong and climb super steep stuff, then Hope Pro II (or Pro III) rear hub at a minimum, or maybe a DT Swiss 350 for the bottom of the budget range if you want them to last for the long haul (in most cases, I'd go with the DT Swiss 350 if the price is close enough). If the budget allows, DT Swiss 240s, Hadley, or Chris King.


The rest of the Stache 8 was solid for me (I was about 270lbs at that time). I liked the Stache so much, I bought a frame and fork, and built up my own and have been thrashing it for the past year and a half. 

Most 275lbs clydes can ride 'regular' frames without too much worry. Just stay away from the weight-weenie stuff. 

The Stache works great for me, and they are a little on the stiff side, so clydes are likely to appreciate the ride qualities of that frame. They make a 26" ETT XL frame too, so the taller among us may appreciate that. 

The Airborne Goblin EVO is pretty much (if not absolutely) patterned after the Stache. Closest thing to it anywhere, and a pretty good value on the parts spec. I haven't thrown a leg over one, but I imagine they are a good trail bike choice too.

Specialized offers the Rockhopper EVO with a 120mm fork, 70° head tube angle, 442mm chainstays (not too long for most), and they have an XXL with a 26.9" ETT length :eekster:

The Niner Air 9 alloy frame is kind of stiff for the lighter weight riders, but I found it very smooth, and a great all-around frame. Handles very nicely for typical XC riding (carves turns like a flaming ginsu knife through hot butter). The EMD is similar, just slightly less sophisticated design to the rear stays compared to the Air 9, and costs a few hundred less most places.

JMHO.


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## igore67 (Feb 3, 2013)

Santa Cruz Chameleon


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## DSFA (Oct 22, 2007)

Cotic BFe!
Me=300lbs geared to go.
My ride: Cotic BFe, Fox 36, Shimano XT 2x10, Hope Pro II hubs w DT E540 rims, KS Lev dropper, Maxxis Ardents 2.4 front/ 2.25 rear, set up tubeless

LOVE this Bike!


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## tehllama (Jul 18, 2013)

jeffJ's advice is absolutely spot on for standard width wheels, honest answer is the wheels will determine usability/survivability of any bike costing over $800 out of the box. (At 270#, the cheap square crank sets are a liability, really lame coil forks require more parts/labor to get sorted, and crap brakes are just a liability in general).
Seriously, that is excellent advice on wheel builds, followed it myself (and now I'm light enough that I don't 'need' uber-beefy wheels, but still run a set that meets those guidelines).

The part I'm trying to wrap my head around is if it really makes a ton of sense to recommend a fatbike to a big Clyde looking to get into MTB who is likely to lose weight - it may in fact be brilliantly unbeatable advice. Somebody who would really love mountain biking is going to be fat-curious at some point, there aren't any versions with stupid single-wall weight weenie cheap XC wheelsets stock (biggest liability on entry level bikes), and down the road if they wind up getting a second bike, there is STILL a role for the fatbike. Worst case - they retain value better than other entry level stuff... I think that may be a default recommendation for certain Clydes who think they'll go deeper down the rabbit hole.


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

fwiw, my first mtb was a Specialized Hardrock Disc 29er. it was absolutely the wrong choice for me, although it was the first bike that i'd ever owned that actually fit me, and that factor reignited the love for riding that I had as a kid. What made it bad, was that in the first 6 months of ownership, I broke so many parts on the bike that i could have bought a much better bike for what i spent on repairs: taco'd both wheels, pretzeled the rear derailleur, broke 3 chains, wore out the bottom bracket and crank spindle and more. I bought my first fat bike 8 months later, a Surly Pugsley and a year after that, I got my 9:Zero:7, which has mostly upper mid-range-ish components: xt derailleur, raceface turbine cranks, KS Lev dropper, Sram Elixir7 brakes etc. The upgrade in components from my other bikes has meant that I break almost nothing now and i'm riding rather technical terrain- not hucking or going off rad drops, but lots of rocks, roots and logs that tore up the parts on my previous bikes.

Going fat off the bat might be discouraging, though. They're heavy- my Pugsley weighed 37 pounds without pedals, making them hard to pedal, especially if you're trying to keep up on a group ride. Still, they offer confidence inspiring traction, a modicum of squish and they make you feel like you can climb and roll over everything. I have no idea how much weight i've lost, but racing a fatbike in XC races (non-fat classes, mostly) has made me hella strong and my friends have remarked that I look a lot different than I did at the beginning of the season.


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## Dawgprimo (Mar 7, 2004)

Gigantic
You must get some looks when you show up at a XC race with your bike!!!
LOL

I thought it was funny you were saying that your Pug can be heavy because I have a full suspension bike that weights 40 lbs and I take it on XC and free ride trails a lot. In fact I just did a 28 km ride with it and it does make you a stronger rider. Even my XC bike is 37 lbs...... but I like a nice strong well built bike frame and they are never light!

But I do want to get a fat bike but just can't decide which one????
I like the Surly Pug or their new one the Ice Cream Truck.
And now turner is coming out with their King Kahn which looks pretty sweet but it will be $$........


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

Ultimately, I didn't like the Pugsley, I feel the geometry is too steep up front, the frame is way too flexible and as previously mentioned, too heavy. The ICT is stiffer, slacker, but still heavy... if i were to buy a Surly, it would definitely be the ICT.


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## Dawgprimo (Mar 7, 2004)

Gigantic said:


> Ultimately, I didn't like the Pugsley, I feel the geometry is too steep up front, the frame is way too flexible and as previously mentioned, too heavy. The ICT is stiffer, slacker, but still heavy... if i were to buy a Surly, it would definitely be the ICT.


Good to know!
Thanks Gigantic.
I prefer a laid back or slacker feel so I will have to take a better look at the ICT!


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## SphincterBoy (Sep 14, 2011)

The Airborne Goblin Evo is an absolute steal right now at 20% off (was $1,600 now $1,280) with free shipping. Definitely check it out. I love mine.


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## nate-roth (Aug 28, 2010)

Dont look past the Surly Krampus. It's tough as nails and a lot faster than you think it would be.


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## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

I'm bored and nowhere near 270, but i've been there a few seasons, so here would be my 270lb'er build. I'm probably over-budget here, but f--- it, results are more important than the price tag.

On-one 456 [latest version here]- Steel, definitely. You WILL break an aluminum frame. You also won't fit correctly on a more XC oriented frame; might as well enjoy something slacker on the downhills. The newer 456'es are finally laterally stiff in the rear end and nice and cheap. There's other good options, but the 456 is pretty unbeatable, i think. I LOVE mine.

A lowered 34-36mm stanchion fork. The spendy ones are worth it because you can do a better job tuning it for your weight. On a budget old 32mm thru-axle forks, like the sherman or pike work fine. They don't build 'em like they used to.

Drivetrain- an XT cassette is necessary. A stack of cogs won't work right under 270lbs of torque. The sram alternative doesn't work. I like DH race cranks, but they're not strictly necessary, although shimano/fsa crank interface works best. Using a bash ring for bashing will net you a F'ed BB.

Brakes- if you live near mountains just go get some zees and cry over the extra hundo you spent. If you live somewhere boring get some slx brakes, or deore if it's super boring. Shimano. Aftermarket sintered pads tend to be OK.

A height-adjustable seatpost- I've had 2 gravity droppers at your weight and they've been flawless, but there's probably other good options. When you're 270 it's a lot harder to get forward of the saddle after you've tucked behind it, and you need to get behind it more often. Blame those thighs. On that note, cycling shorts that work and are tight to your crotch are a HUGE help. Cycling specific baggies FTW.

Wheels- whatever jeffj says. I got some quality ritchie freeride wheels and rode them through my entire fat times w/o ever having a bit of trouble. It can be done.

The rest is up to you. Lose 100lbs and this build will still be fun to ride on the right trails and/or with the right people.


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

scottzg said:


> On-one 456 [latest version here]- Steel, definitely. You WILL break an aluminum frame.


That's just plain nonsense right there. Steel is not magic.


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## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

TooTallUK said:


> That's just plain nonsense right there. Steel is not magic.


Scottzg's broken frame stats-

Aluminum: 4 of 5
Steel: 0 of 4

It may not be magic but it seems to hold up a lot better under a larger rider.


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## fastslowpronewb (Aug 12, 2013)

+1 Trek Stache

I ride at 205-210 geared and love that bike soo much I sold my full susp.

Great trail bike.

OP definitely needs to clarify what the goals are?


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## RBDIII (Aug 10, 2014)

Love my Goblin EVO. Did get a new wheel set for it, but I am 6'2 340. And, I think its still on sale which makes it an even better deal. Wasn't real comfortable ordering a bike I couldn't demo, but called them gave them my numbers and got a great bike, very happy.


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## burgrat (Mar 2, 2010)

I'm thinking about the Goblin EVO since it's a great deal. I'm 275, do you think the wheelset it cones with would be an issue?


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## Bttocs (Jun 21, 2014)

I rode a new seeker all this year in some pretty nasty rock gardens. Had lots of flats but the wheels or rims are perfectly fine. I weigh 250 lbs. I would think the EVO's wheels would be fine for you unless you are getting really crazy.


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## V8Interceptor (Aug 24, 2014)

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I started this thread as I was ticked off that Trek Care Plus ended it's program before my Stache 7 came in, and was worried i was gonna break all the components. I ended up sticking with the Stache, and I'm glad I did. I'm having a blast with it, and so much fun versus going to the gym.. Without having the Trek Care Plus coverage, if I do break something like the wheels, it will be an opportunity to upgrade!


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