# Rohloff: new chain breaking & freewheel noise



## Al Warda (Jul 4, 2015)

I have two issues I would like to resolve, hopefully with your help?

1. My chain broke today, it's new (8 speed, not used aggressively, mostly on gravel roads and seen some mud) and one of the links came away and exposed the rivet so the chain 'broke'.
It was on relatively flat gravel road and not much pressure on the pedals.

I'm posting this under Rohloff as this has happened only once in my old dérailleur system in 25,000 kms+. The Rohloff was bought second hand and probably done 10,000 kms, I have had it a few months and it's had regular use. 
The chain was probably slacker than it should be, some of the chainring teeth are a bit bent. That's about it
I think the chain line is good.
The chain has come off recently before but this was due to the chain being really loose (this is obviously an issue)
I've tried to provide enough info as possible without boring readers.
I use a Tugnut on the driveside, Surly's horizontal dropouts, the wheel has shifted before but it's usually okay?

2. As a new Rohloff user I'm not sure if these freewheeling noises are normal.
On most gears (can't remember exactly which ones sorry) when not pedalling there are irregular whirring noises which don't sound 'normal', there are also the usual regular clicks (as with a dérailleur).
There is no other signs of irregularity in the use of the system: no oil leaks, shifts well, etc.


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

My rohloff is pretty noisy in gears 1 to 7 and virtually silent in gears 8+. The freewheel is pretty noisy in all gears but not as loud as hopes or the like.
If it is second hand it is probably a good idea to by an oil change kit which consists of cleaning oil, standard hub oil and a plastic injector, just drain the old oil, inject the cleaning oil, spin it around a bit then drain, finally add in the lube oil. They run quieter after you do that
Chain wise I use a KMC X1 single speed chain, with the rohloff 16T rear sprocket and either a 40T or 36t Middleburn SS chain ring depending on how steep the route is, with a tug nut; I've had no issues with my set. I prefer a little slack in the chain to being super tight. If the teeth are bent I would replace the chain ring, also measure the chain and replace it if it is too elongated.

Lastly if you store the wheel or bike with the non drive side down the hub can seep oil and contaminate the rotor.


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## Al Warda (Jul 4, 2015)

Thanks Jon
In response to your recommendations I will fill in some more details:
•Although second-hand the hub has recently had a service, oil change and look-over.
•The chain is new and from what I've read it should last for ages, and not just break after 2-3 weeks, although things do break when you also need them too.
•I may well change the chainring for a new one, this might help.
• my chain is on the slack side as opposed to tight.
....but to my knowledge a Rohloff set-up for chain should be almost bullet-proof.
My fear is that this may happen again in another remote area (this is one of the only times I didn't have a chain-breaker and spare links with me as the chain was new, that'll teach me) for no apparent reason when the system should be airtight and last for a long time???

What I'll do is (as I'm toolless) is get the bike shop to check the chain line, and maybe get a stronger skewer (now have XT) to stop the wheel slipping.
Many thanks for the speedy reply


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## evrac (Sep 28, 2005)

Another vote for KMC X1 chain (3/32"). Built for single speed and gearhub use. 

Also, I would never reconnect a chain using a chain tool. These chains us a quick link that I have found to be very reliable.

You have not said what kind of chain you had or how it was put on.
Also, you have said that you had bent chainring teeth. This seems like it might be the culprit. I would also only use proper single-speed cogs and chainrings, nothing designed for shifting, no ramps or pins or short teeth.


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## Al Warda (Jul 4, 2015)

I don't know what chain manufacturer it is, probably a cheap one.
Yes, this chain had a quick link also but one which looked like you need pliers to remove (not very quick then!).
I use the leftovers from my 2x days so have Surly OD cranks with the 39t chainring, many people use non-Rohloff specific set-ups with success (plus I cannot afford another). But the bent teeth would definitely be a contributing factor to the chain break possibly, I did try to realign them with a pair of pliers at home.
I'll report what my bike mechanic says about it all.
Thanks for your help


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

As other have said, bent chainring teeth are a cause for concern. I would get a new chainring ASAP. I use an 8 speed chain as well and they should be fine. My suggestion is any SRAM 8 speed chain. Shorten it to the correct length and use the quick link to connect. ALWAYS carry an extra quick link, a few extra chainlinks, and a chainbreaker (And know how to use it!). On a derailleur equipped bike you can take out a couple of links if they get mangled, not so on a Rohloff setup.

You also mention the wheel slipping in the dropouts. This could also be the issue. If the wheel slips on one side (say from hard pedaling or hard braking), the chainring and cog will not be parallel anymore. This could also cause a broken chain.


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## Al Warda (Jul 4, 2015)

It's been in the shop, it checks out fine in terms of chain line etc.
The mechanic didn't notice any problems with damaged teeth until I reminded him. 
A new KMC X1 is fitted, but now I'm wondering if I should replace that chainring??
And try to solve those slippage concerns without a second tugnut?
Thanks for the ongoing communication.


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

If you have the QR version of the Rohloff you can get a 135mm DT Swiss RWS skewer that gives significantly more clamping force than a traditional skewer but they are quite expensive. As mine is the axle plate / monkeybone rohloff I don't have much in the way of experience with the QR version, but I think steel XT skewers should be OK. 
Is yours a disc version? If so any hub slippage is likely to jam or trash a disc before causing the chain to snap.

Difficult to give you pointers without photos


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## Al Warda (Jul 4, 2015)

I have the QR plus disc brake version. I am also using the XT skewer and clamping it tightly (and this can lead to other difficulties with the hub) but there still is some slippage.
I suppose I'll have to seriously consider that second tugnut and/or one of those RWS skewers.
I don't think any photos will do it justice. It's a bit annoying but I'm constantly checking to see if there's any slippage if I'm riding off road or steep slopes. That's not good.


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

You do have a monkey bone or the torque arm installed, if your bike doesn't have Rohloff specific dropouts. Along with the correct axle plate?
Should not be slipping with a quality steel skewer like XT


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## Al Warda (Jul 4, 2015)

Monkey bone and OEM2 installed, and all other essentials are there, XT are supposed to be one of the better clamp forces but others (vikapproved) also report slippage using this system and opted for 2 Tugnut system.
With this though, it adds weight and I'll be forced to re-align the cables so they run along the chainstay, as opposed to the seatstay as they are now.
I have horizontal drop-outs on the Surly Krampus so not Rohloff-specific.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

The following have nothing to do with breaking a chain:

- how the hub freewheels
- anything else internal to the hub
- slack in chain as long as it's not falling off regularly and getting damaged in the process

What does matter:

- chain line
- condition of chain ring and cog
- manufacturing defects in the chain
- chain damaged [possibly from coming off or being setup too tight]
- excessive wear

FWIW I run $16 SRAM 8 spd chains and have never ever broken one on a Rohloff/IGH. They wear out and I throw a new one on.

I would verify the chain line is good. Replace the damaged chainring. Throw a new 8spd chain on. Ride your bike.

Having a single incidence of a problem like this is not something to worry about.

If you go through these steps and it happens again you may have a real problem, but I bet it never does.


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## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

also , if the chain wasn't installed right in the first place , rivet can split up.



If you have a slack chain , the left to right movement can cause the chain to go "up" on the chainring/cog , causing an extra temporary tension and breaking the chain.
I have 4 bikes with SS , it happened to me.


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