# Tripple XML



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

*GD Manual mill vs Kan3 CNC mill vs YB lathe - XXX*

It's been a while since i touched the mill..but now i have a little bit of time, i thought i best used some of the bits I have..
So instead of buying more ali. I thought, can i make a tripple XML from a piece of 38mm square ali bar that i have.
The only option i see is to steel a leaf out of trouties book, and mount the driver in the end of the light rather than behind the leds..sorry Chris:thumbsup:
This uses 3 XML's, LC1 optics with a H6flex, 10mm momentary switch and a hirschman M8 right angle connector.
Mounts will probably be one either end so the light straddles the stem..

Any thoughts on this design before i start the long hard slog of swearing at the mill?


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

as they say, why reinvent the wheel when you can steal one off your neighbour's car 

one point though would be that you're tying yourself to reflectors with this design and troutie (and others) seem to like the optics better. might be something to think about..


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

mattthemuppet said:


> as they say, why reinvent the wheel when you can steal one off your neighbour's car
> 
> one point though would be that you're tying yourself to reflectors with this design and troutie (and others) seem to like the optics better. might be something to think about..


Up north they usually swap all 4 wheels for bricks 

Sorry no reflectors in this...edited my post as i didnt state that it would be using the LC1 optics.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Goldigger, the triple I've just got working was made from 40mm x 40mm bar and I the reflectors are 26mm at their widest point. If you are concerned about the overall length then I did it with the HFlex in a pocket above middle reflector.

Happy to send you some 'Draft It" plans if you want them


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

My bar is 38x38mm..
The LC1's are 21.6mm so my cut out will probably be 22mm.
Curious as to how you got the h6flex in a pocket, wiring it up must have been a royal pita?


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Yeah that probably won't fit unless the LC1's reduce in size as they get closer to the LED the same way my DX ones do. The pocket was 10mm high. This would leave you very little top and bottom for wall thickness and fins.

PITA is correct, hence the problems. I wired the leds first and sat them in place with the front cover on to keep them secure. Poked the wires through the body and did all the switch and HFlex connections. Took the front cover back off and then, whilst holding the leds in place, slid the driver into its pocket doing my best not to jam wiring on the edges of the cut outs etc.

I think yours / Trouites plans are better though and it has already given me an idea on how to do the XML triple with 18mm DX reflectors I have on the way.

Edit: Goldigger it is a HipFlex I used, not a H6Flex and at 36mm is even bigger than the H6Flex


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

What are you using mount the light to the bars? I think I may steal this design as well but with a maxflex.

Mine isn't as pretty


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

kan3 said:


> What are you using mount the light to the bars? I think I may steal this design as well but with a maxflex.
> 
> Mine isn't as pretty


I was thinking of making my own clamps for it, not sure if i should use one full on clamp one end, and one of the oring types on the other end..

Will be interested to see how yours comes out?

I made a start on mine today, so far so good..

Only problem i have is george has no h6flex's in stock


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

Probably won't start mine till next week as I still have to finish some other projects on the mill. I'd like to see an update on yours though in case I want to change my design. 

His site also mentions some will be in next week which isn't too bad. When I went to order some stuff before it was a 1.5 month wait.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Troutie's version of this design started off as a finned round bar off the lathe. Then the milling work. I have always kind of liked the design


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I think its quite an easy design to machine, today I have:
squared the bar
Milled out the driver compartment
Milled out most of the led compartment

Now i need to set up the rotary table to round the ends of the led compartment and also mill the round part of the o-ring groove.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

I think George is on holidays at the moment, from memory Scar mentioned it on another thread.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

emu26 said:


> I think George is on holidays at the moment, from memory Scar mentioned it on another thread.


Yep no orders from 9th to 18th..
But no stock of the h6flex till the 19th, I wonder if that date is set in stone.
I'll just have to use a hipcc for the time being and just have one level.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Cool lets have some proper photos of work in progress :thumbsup: 

If you get to the needing the h6flex stage and George has none I have a few here 


go minimal and make 2 nice mounts to use the bars as heat sink


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Thanks Chris, maybe take you up on the H6flex :thumbsup:
Ok here is what it looks like after yesterdays work.. 
Roughed out most of the slot for the led's, know I'm just finishing it off on the rotary table.
One hole done two to go, but need to mill the half circle for the o-ring groove before i start the next hole..hope that makes sense..?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Led holes are sorted..plus the oring groove around the two end leds, just need to join them up..
Also need to mill a channel for the wires to sit in from each led to the next. Where i have left material where the led sits in, i will mill away the tops and bottoms to create the channel.



















Driver compartment


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## Toaster79 (Apr 5, 2010)

Beautiful!


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

:thumbsup: 

What brand of mill are you using? Yes, I'm still dreaming


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

emu26 said:


> :thumbsup:
> 
> What brand of mill are you using? Yes, I'm still dreaming


It's a Sieg SX2
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-sieg-sx2-mini-mill-prod809899/?src=froogle


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

Where do you live? The x2 is on sale through HF until July for about $399+shipping.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

kan3 said:


> Where do you live? The x2 is on sale through HF until July for about $399+shipping.


If you can afford it, id recommend the SX2 over the X2.
SX2 gets a 500watt brushless motor over the X2 which has a standard 350watt motor, the 350 watt motor is pretty noisy.

SX2 is also belt driven rather than the cheapo plastic gears that the X2 uses. reading a few forums, they suggest that the plastic gears are a wink link. If your cutter jams into the work it normally breaks the plastic gears.

SX2 has varible speed, rather than 2 speed gear box on the X2


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

I'm in Sydney, Australia.

The x2 sells here on ebay for around the $700 mark. In stores its north of $800. HF won't ship tools like that to me, heck they won't even respond to emails inquiring about cost of freight, strange given what the F in HF stands for. Anyway

I did have concerns about those plastic gears, good to hear feedback on them. I'm still leaning towards the Proxxon setups but just can't justify spending that sort of money on a hobby.........at the moment.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Being stratigic didnt pay off, i done all the milling in the vice so that i would only have to swap the vice for the rotary table once.
Was working fine until i [email protected] up the front cover on the rotary table! now i need to swap the rotary table to the vice again, and then back to the rotary table.

Lucky i have plenty of 5mm ali plate spare!


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

A little update on todays work..
O-ring groove and led slots finished
Need to remove about 5mm from the left end of the body..

















New front cover and driver cover cut to size
Bottom cover with hole in it is the front cover i messed up when i got up this morning. Dont know how it ended up so far out. Must have just crept gradually under the clamps.


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

Getting good with those o-ring grooves now! - So you going to use real spots (RS)? - Tried any of the others or combination of LC1?

What are everyone's thoughts on the xm-l and LXP - (I've got quite a few).


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

MrLee said:


> Getting good with those o-ring grooves now! - So you going to use real spots (RS)? - Tried any of the others or combination of LC1?
> 
> What are everyone's thoughts on the xm-l and LXP - (I've got quite a few).


Thanks mate 
The optic in the middle is a FA10661_LXP-RS for XPE as you know..
The two on the outside are the LC1 RS, I've got some more LC1's coming as the LXP-RS sits a little higher than the others and is about 0.75mm to high..

They both give pretty much the same beam.. I'm looking forward to firing all 3 up at 3amps:devil:

Edit. Just checked, the LC1 is actually taller, I haven't drilled the hole in the holder large enough to take the square part of the led lol


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

looking really good GD, can't wait to see the rest.

Also very glad there's such an enthusiastic DIY LED community dahnunda, that way we have southern hemisphere builds appearing for your winter, just when the northern lot pack everything away for our summer


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

mattthemuppet said:


> looking really good GD, can't wait to see the rest.
> 
> Also very glad there's such an enthusiastic DIY LED community dahnunda, that way we have southern hemisphere builds appearing for your winter, just when the northern lot pack everything away for our summer


It might be just me, but I don't understand why people seem to ditch the night nights in the summer, surely that's the best time to go? i.e, it's not freezing!


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Goldigger, about the mistake, I know exactly how you feel, but probably 10 times, yours was only a face plate 

Matt, he's in the UK, not downunder.

Mr lee, those of us Downunder live in the best part of the world, perfect night riding weather all year round


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

emu26 said:


> Goldigger, about the mistake, I know exactly how you feel, but probably 10 times, yours was only a face plate
> 
> Matt, he's in the UK, not downunder.
> 
> Mr lee, those of us Downunder live in the best part of the world, perfect night riding weather all year round


But I suppose we don't have to worry about what beasties are out to eat us ;-) The winter makes you appreciate the summer all the more 

Ok, it gets dark later, but what could be better than a nice ride after a scorching day?


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

emu26 said:


> Matt, he's in the UK, not downunder.
> 
> Mr lee, those of us Downunder live in the best part of the world, perfect night riding weather all year round


that's right, my bad. As for the best part of the world, I think everywhere has it's + and - Here it's the winter, when I was in Melbourne it was the dust and bush fires. One day I hope to find somewhere I'm not freezing to death (here), being drowned (Bristol) or at risk of being burnt alive (Oz)! Actually, I did find it, but there the risks were kidnapping and death in general (Medellin, Colombia)!

I dunno why people give up night riding in summer - I LOVE night riding. I guess people are just glad to be back and scrubbed up before 9pm so they can do something else that night.

anyway, sorry for derailing the thread GD


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

mattthemuppet said:


> that's right, my bad. As for the best part of the world, I think everywhere has it's + and - Here it's the winter, when I was in Melbourne it was the dust and bush fires.


There's your problem, Melbourne isn't part of Aus, it's in another world altoghether, just like the two headed breeds we have down on that little island of the southern coast of the mainland.

:lol:


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## savagemann (Jan 14, 2008)

Looking great GD!!!
I really like the oring groove.
I really like the idea of getting a mill, but don't know that I have the patience to use it.....= )

As far as night riding in summer goes........
It is the best time IMO.
It's when we do most of our night rides.
I probably did 30 night rides last summer alone.
I really don't like riding when it is much over 90F. I overheat and feel pooped pretty fast.
So we usually start our rides at around 7-8pm in the summer.
Gets dark around 8:30-9pm.
Start out climbing up while it is still light out, and it is completely dark by the time we hit the descent.
The temps are mild, and it is perfect out here at night.
I live in Nor Cal, and it can get pretty hot during the day here in the summer.
On the flip side, we can pretty much ride all year round.
I only missed 2 weeks of riding this whole year due to some crazy rain we were getting, and the trails got thrashed.
Last year, we didn't miss any days of riding.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

emu26 said:


> There's your problem, Melbourne isn't part of Aus, it's in another world altoghether, just like the two headed breeds we have down on that little island of the southern coast of the mainland.
> 
> :lol:


I dunno, 2 heads or not, you don't hear of mass flooding or towns being burnt to the ground in Tazzie. In fact, you don't hear of much at all (they do have electricity right?)!


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

Finished up all the cam files for mine today. It looks like it should take me about 2 hours to make one so I should have some shots up in the next day or two. Find any issues with the design that you decided to change in case it may relate to me as well?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

kan3 said:


> Finished up all the cam files for mine today. It looks like it should take me about 2 hours to make one so I should have some shots up in the next day or two. Find any issues with the design that you decided to change in case it may relate to me as well?


If its only taking you two hours to make one, why arnt you making two 
I won't get to touch mine until the weekend so unfortunately mine won't be finished.
Nothing changed so far although I do have some ideas how to make it look less square.
They will be the finishing touches when I do the finning..


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> If its only taking you two hours to make one, why arnt you making two


I'm actually making 4 



> Nothing changed so far although I do have some ideas how to make it look less square.
> They will be the finishing touches when I do the finning..


I haven't started working with slopes yet inside of cam. I suppose I can try with this project as I do have a 1/4" and 3/8" ball end mill laying around. Probably screw it up and it'll look like poo.

EDIT: Actually, I think a 90deg drill point end mill will get the result I'm looking for


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Goldigger said:


> If its only taking you two hours to make one, why arnt you making two
> I won't get to touch mine until the weekend so unfortunately mine won't be finished.
> Nothing changed so far although I do have some ideas how to make it look less square.
> They will be the finishing touches when I do the finning..


Sorry to make a mess of your pic, but is this what you have in mind?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Nope, i wasn't thinking roundness...thought id leave it as a surprise so mine and Kan3 dont end up the same


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

Heh

Your light is already better in my mind as you're doing a screw down plate on the front and side. I'm just doing going to glue mine into the recess because I'm lazy.


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

Here is where mine is at as of tonight. I was wrong about the time, I think it'll only take me a little over a hour to make one. I do need to adjust my tram and gibs soon as the finish is starting to show. I'll finish up the rest tomorrow when I get time.

I wasn't paying attention on the bandsaw and cut the first one a little thin. The walls on the pocket for the maxflex are only .62mm thick.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

That first pic makes it look so much bigger than it appears in the last one, the maxflex really puts it into perspective.

But why a maxflex, that'll only give it 1500ma?


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## rschultz101 (Oct 5, 2009)

nice job!
you found a spot for the driver, like it.
asymmetric, but not as deep, is good on the handlebar.
don't have a CNC,... just a scroll-saw, and a file....
3 XML, nice, should get toasty ...
I'll try to add heatsink surface to mine, and probably reduce power consumption.
anybody got a good place, for anodizing ? or is powdercoat an option ?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Looking good Kan3...
What led's and optics/reflectors are you putting in yours?
I was looking at mine last night trying to work out the best way of getting the wiring in from the driver to the leds, there isnt much room with a H6Flex in it.
Should get some more of mine done tonight as its a night off the gym, also got friday as its a bank holiday here in the uk.

I should change the name of my thread to something like GD Manual mill vs Kan3 CNC mill


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

emu26 said:


> But why a maxflex, that'll only give it 1500ma?


It's just going to be a 3up xpg setup. I have a lot of spares from a project that went a different direction. Need to use them up.



rschultz101 said:


> anybody got a good place, for anodizing ?"


In about a week or two I'm sending some stuff out to be hardcoat type3 anodized in black. If you have anything you want done you could send them to me. It should only be about $10-15 a part where most places have a $100-150 minimum on hardcoat.



goldigger= said:


> Looking good Kan3...
> What led's and optics/reflectors are you putting in yours?


3up r4 neutral with reginas



> I was looking at mine last night trying to work out the best way of getting the wiring in from the driver to the leds, there isnt much room with a H6Flex in it.


I just planned to drill a hole between the too compartments and run 2 strands of 22awg wire between them. The maxflex will have a small piece of aluminum epoxied to its pad so it'll sit up off the wall a little bit and let wires around it.



> I should change the name of my thread to something like GD Manual mill vs Kan3 CNC mill


I don't want you to feel like I'm thread crapping or anything.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Here's a little bit of progress from tonight..
Milled the holes in the front cover, didn't plan to mill all 3 holes round. I was going to just cut either end and then mill the middle part out to join them up creating a big slot.
But as i seemed to have nailed the rotary table i cut all three.









Probably not the most accurate way to cut the holes next to each other, heres's how i cut all 3 holes on the rotary table:
1.With the front cover in the vice, zero the piece to x and y, move to the centre of the first hole, drill, move to next drill, move to next drill.
2.tap the 3rd hole, work backwards and tap the other two.
3.Remove vice, mount and centre the rotary table.
4.With the tap back in the chuck, screw it into one of the holes on the cover, making sure the end of the tap clears the top of the rotay table.
5.Bring the spindle/z axis down so that the piece/cover is pressed down against the surface of the rotary table, then clamp the piece down where it sits.

Like i said probably not the most accurate, but as i dont have a 4 jaw chuck to mount to my rotary table, i have to improvise a little 

Milled the rear of the cover for the 0.75mm lexan sheet, just need to tidy up the 4 bits pointing inwards to straighten the inner edge..










All i need to do is drill and tap all the holes in both covers, then mill some fins and drill holes for the cables to go from the driver into the led compartment.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Looking pretty sweet GD. Great to see more chips flying in the spare room and the mill being put through it's paces.

All i can say is that the triple @ 3 amps is a light cannon so you won't be dissapointed.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

> I should change the name of my thread to something like GD Manual mill vs Kan3 CNC mill


Make that plus YB micro lathe, I fancy a challenge. Hope you don't mind but it should show the many ways to skin a rabit.

I'll start in the morning. Not done a drawing yet so could be a busy night. Lathe might be a bit it too small though


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

You running at 7x12?


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Nope, Taig Micro lathe.


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

Finished the unit
Came in at 103g without the holes drilled for mount and wiring


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Absolutely fantastic GD. Love the little signature engraving on the end.

I have the opposite problem YB, my lathe is often too big and i can't fit it in the back shed


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

yetibetty said:


> Make that plus YB micro lathe, I fancy a challenge. Hope you don't mind but it should show the many ways to skin a rabit.
> 
> I'll start in the morning. Not done a drawing yet so could be a busy night. Lathe might be a bit it too small though


Done...changed the title, shame it doesn't change the thread name 

Be interested to see How far you are by the end of today..and How the mini lathe performs.

Come on board troutie, we just need you to make one as well now


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Goldigger said:


> Done...changed the title, shame it doesn't change the thread name
> 
> Be interested to see How far you are by the end of today..and How the mini lathe performs.
> 
> Come on board troutie, we just need you to make one as well now


Already got mine as you may have seen


























#

I have been looking at it to see if I can enlarge the led cavity to fit in the square optics but dont think I have enough meat for it to be successful.

liking the work you are all doing though :thumbsup: but sadly my day job is getting in the way of making chips .


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> Already got mine as you may have seen
> 
> 
> 
> ...


ha ha thats cheating..
I know where you are coming from with the day job getting in the way, thats the exact reason why I havent been up to much lately.

You could always swap the reginas for LC1's?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

kan3 said:


> Finished the unit
> Came in at 103g without the holes drilled for mount and wiring


I never noticed your post.. didnt get an email saying my thread had been updated..

Looks good, yours will probably be a lot lighter than mine..How are you going about the covers and mounts?

Wish i had cnc, would make some of the process eaiser than turning the wheel a million times. Especially when it comes to milling the fins, I imagin that that is quiet an easy bit of code to write as its generally repetative.


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> How are you going about the covers and mounts?


I'm going to use one of those mount kits I found in the supply sticky. I don't know if its a good idea to use aluminum mounts on our CF bars? On the bottom of the unit you can see a spot where I left some space to drill/tap for whatever screw it comes with. For the covers I need to order some more acrylite and then I'll toss a piece on the mill and have it cut out the covers for me. I may make a aluminum plate for the cap on the side if I get bored instead of the plastic.



> Wish i had cnc, would make some of the process eaiser than turning the wheel a million times. Especially when it comes to milling the fins, I imagin that that is quiet an easy bit of code to write as its generally repetative.


Well, you bought a good mill if you ever want to covert it. It's probably the most popular mill converted to cnc so it has a ton of kits available for it. Total machine run time was about 40min with no effort to optimize it or use the faster pulleys for a better IPM. It took me longer to export everything to .dxf and make the cam files for the parts. Doing the cam files would probably take you a few times and then you'd get the hang of it rather easily.

I definitely like the look of the lathed part better. I also like the switch on the opposite side of the driver compartment.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Ok today didn't go as planned as I forgot it was Easter weekend so had to paint the living room (under orders).

I am going to start the light now but only have an hour to spare. Will continue tomorrow.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

YB, just say your going out to the shed to wash the paint brushes and do a bit of turning each time. She'll be finished in no time


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

brad72 said:


> YB, just say your going out to the shed to wash the paint brushes and do a bit of turning each time. She'll be finished in no time


That's the problem..... my lathe is in the spare room


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Yeti get some paint slapped on and do some turning whilst it dries.

OK might as well join in on this thread 
Decided to rework the light and while it is not a triple it is sort of 
did a little remachining could not get 4 square optics in so am going for 2 xmls and 2 xpgs with the xpgs as a parallel pair they will see 1.5 amps when the xmls get 3 amps .

the XPGs will be Reginas and the xml will be Lauras










just need to work out the wiring next .

Edit Flipping heck it lights up


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Here's mine so far...just need to make i look sexy and drill holes for the switch and cable socket..


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Got a bit carried away between coats.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

wow guys, those are some great looking lights. :thumbsup: I can feel myself getting the itch for another light.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

+1 Brad, some very nice looking housings coming along here.

You boys have had me up half the night search this interwebby thing for something that will let me join the party. I'm getting closer, I think.

Nice work guys, keep it up

Chris, did you test the beam with the xpg / xml mix? I have to say I am super impressed with mine, first time I haven't slowed on a down hill section because of lack of light, just lack of skill


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Hey Goldigger, what made you change your mind with the now single slot face plate?
Looking very nice BTW.

I may have got some measurements wrong while rushing mine.


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

Hmmm

Mine is lacking the sexy compared to everyone elses unit. I'll have to figure out something for the last one I do to bring the sexy back.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

kan3 said:


> Hmmm
> 
> Mine is lacking the sexy compared to everyone elses unit. I'll have to figure out something for the last one I do to bring the sexy back.


At least your parts fit inside


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

emu26 said:


> +1 Brad, some very nice looking housings coming along here.
> 
> You boys have had me up half the night search this interwebby thing for something that will let me join the party. I'm getting closer, I think.
> 
> ...


Nope no test just built it blind so to speak got the optics in last night and will finish it today 
while waiting for my daughter to make me a granddad  she has been in labour all night so should be soon .










What you done Yetibetty not left enough meat for the led cavity ??


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Hey congrats Pops, fingers crossed it finishes smoothly for her. My wife was over 30 hrs for our first, got progressively faster for the next two.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

betty said:


> Hey Goldigger, what made you change your mind with the now single slot face plate?
> Looking very nice BTW.
> 
> I may have got some measurements wrong while rushing mine.


I thought it looked a bit retro and reminded me of a traffic light lol..
Plus I needed to save a few grams somewhere.

Thanks

Yours is looking very cool to, I need to get me a tail stock and 3 jaw chuck so I can turn my mill into a lathe:thumbsup:


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

emu26 said:


> Hey congrats Pops, fingers crossed it finishes smoothly for her. My wife was over 30 hrs for our first, got progressively faster for the next two.


Yeah good stuff Trout! We pop ours out in about an hour 

Triple XML content... replacing my Quad XRE dyno with a triple XML. Should have the same lumens.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

> What you done Yeti not left enough meat for the led cavity ??*troutie*


I was really pleased that I cut the all of the fins in the time it took me to have a cup of tea, then went back to painting the living room. Next time I looked I realized that I had cut the fins 3mm too deep.

Are you a Grandad yet?


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

betty said:


> I was really pleased that I cut the all of the fins in the time it took me to have a cup of tea, then went back to painting the living room. Next time I looked I realized that I had cut the fins 3mm too deep.
> 
> Are you a Grandad yet?


Nope not yet

is it screwed or can you get round it anyways .

Congrats Znomit :thumbsup:


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

The plan to do one like yours will mean starting again, which I will today.

But I could stuff 3 XM-Ls in the fat bit that's in the chuck and make a fancy torch.

I'll start again and use the balls up to make a single with an Lflex.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

like you said yeti you could always fit 3 x 10mm diameter boards in the hole and use a triple xre optic like the light i made. There only about 30mm diameter from memory and give a pretty good beam


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

brad72 said:


> like you said yeti you could always fit 3 x 10mm diameter boards in the hole and use a triple xre optic like the light i made. There only about 30mm diameter from memory and give a pretty good beam


I just fancy a change as I have made far to many mr11(ish) lights in the past.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

betty said:


> The plan to do one like yours will mean starting again, which I will today.
> 
> But I could stuff 3 XM-Ls in the fat bit that's in the chuck and make a fancy torch.
> 
> I'll start again and use the balls up to make a single with an Lflex.


I did not do the fins on the lathe. 
I cut out the led /optic recess on the mill
after I had made the driver and switch bits on the lathe. then milled the fins so they follow the square shape

what is the diameter of the bit left over. is it larger than 50 mm 
reason I have a couple of Ledil Rocket 3 optics on their way to try out with the xml 
they worked very well with the MCE s


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

I have been trying to work out how you did it on the lathe...now I know 

The fat bit in the chuck is 45mm.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Here's mine after an hour today..
Still quiet a bit to do with the fins..


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)




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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Nice stepped fins, good way to keep the weight down.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


>


Cheers Chris, That pic made me laugh..wasn't expecting to see it..


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

That is a good idea
Cad time


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Goldigger said:


> Cheers Chris, That pic made me laugh..wasn't expecting to see it..


Funny it does bear a striking resemblance to me and the lumen hound only just realised cos just back in from a walk in the dark with him .

It would look smaller and lose a bit of weight if you took the corners off in line with the fins

I know mine is a cheat and only a technical triple xml in output only but got a beam shot 
at the haunted house which is my test for throw as the woods dont have the distance and was pretty blown away with the result the 2 xpgs really add to the quality of the beam 
the distance to the house is approx 160 metres .










I will need to go through my old beam shots but from memory that is one of the best for lighting up that house .
even when I had retreated down the field another 100 metres it still lit it up .

waiting with anticipation for your beam shots soon


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I just took some more off the rear..going from left ro right, notice that i have not milled the 8th slot or gone full depth on the 9th slot.
I'm wondering if i should put the M8 hirschmann cable gland there?









The corners arn't finished yet, they were just roughly done for now.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

yetibetty said:


> I just fancy a change as I have made far to many mr11(ish) lights in the past.


Strange i missed a load of posts..
People having babies...congrats guys..
And a nice pair of lights yeti:thumbsup:


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## rschultz101 (Oct 5, 2009)

nice !
curious , can you put on a scale ?
any guess on SQ inches of surface, wondering about the cooling ?
maybe a laser temp measurement. 
this is going to be one groovy light ! 
cheers


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## odtexas (Oct 2, 2008)

Goldigger said:


> I just took some more off the rear..going from left ro right, notice that i have not milled the 8th slot or gone full depth on the 9th slot.
> I'm wondering if i should put the M8 hirschmann cable gland there?
> 
> 
> ...


Love the lighting in that shot off the body and the swarf. Very artsy.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Some more progress.. at the moment I'm at 200grams roughly (dont have digital scales)

















Chris, where did you get the router bit you used to bevel the edges on your batteries inside light?


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## piesoup (Feb 9, 2009)

I can see a trend happening here!

I have started my light at last, its a Triple plus one. Three xmls from a hipflex and a single xml from a bflex. I have a circuit to control both drivers to prevent over heating to for auto on / off for stop / starting. Its fully customisable via usb and a Atmel Dragon. I wont be using the pump/fan output so I can get it alot smaller, hopefully fit it inside the light. At the mo, it will live in a little carbon box under the stem. Light on bars, straddling the stem.

Its gonna take AGES to finish as I can only take off 0.1mm in the fins, there are loads of them and they are 8mm deep. 

































As you can see, I've used various setups to get it right! Need to buy a mill...


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Another quick update..
Driver will now be on the left side rather than the right..


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## Toaster79 (Apr 5, 2010)

Astonishing work GD! Every time you guys turn on your mills you make me more and more wanting one of my own!


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## Itess (Feb 22, 2009)

Deleted the noise


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

How much those bar mount switches run?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Ah itess you haven't followed the theme here, so you best start again


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## Itess (Feb 22, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> Ah itess you haven't followed the theme here, so you best start again


Oh, sorry, I misunderstood the thread. I was thinking that everyone with a triple XM-L is welcomed.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Itess said:


> Oh, sorry, I misunderstood the thread. I was thinking that everyone with a triple XM-L is welcomed.


Everyone is welcome mate..
Just everyone so far has done a parallel arrangement with the driver on the end, you'll need to mount your driver on the end to keep the trend going


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

*random XML beamshots*

Just took these and this thread is probably a good place to post them

I paced it out from the building 100 good strides

Here are the lights from left to right

1 / single XML 2S Laura Lflex 3 amps
2 / double XML 2S Laura H6flex 3 amps
3 / triple XML 2S Laura H6flex 3 amps
4 / Triple xml 2S cute S H6flex 3 amps
5 / Triple XML 2S Rocket 3 H6flex 3 Amps
6 / double XML Laura + Double XPG Regina Hipflex 2.8 amps 
7 / single XML Deft Aspherical Lflex 2 amps










Beamshots in the same order

1 








2








3








4








5








6








7


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Nice work, thanks Chris.

Is the Laura in #6 the same as that in the first three or does the 2s refer to something else that I can't think of at the moment.

The xpg really does make a difference doesn't it :thumbsup:


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

emu26 said:


> Nice work, thanks Chris.
> 
> Is the Laura in #6 the same as that in the first three or does the 2s refer to something else that I can't think of at the moment.
> 
> The xpg really does make a difference doesn't it :thumbsup:


My mistake. itis the same. 2S. color bin.

Just got the Rocket 3 optic and threw it in a mag light head. bigger is better 
as it does throw better than the Cute triple. but not a massive difference


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## Itess (Feb 22, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> Just got the Rocket 3 optic and threw it in a mag light head. bigger is better
> as it does throw better than the Cute triple. but not a massive difference


Is it optics for xr-e? Sits it higher than led?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

:thumbsup:


troutie-mtb said:


> My mistake. itis the same. 2S. color bin.
> 
> Just got the Rocket 3 optic and threw it in a mag light head. bigger is better
> as it does throw better than the Cute triple. but not a massive difference


Is that a 50mm optic? I have a 50MM 4 led optic your welcome to..
2nd one from the left..


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Itess said:


> Is it optics for xr-e? Sits it higher than led?


Yes it is the XRE optic I tried to test differing heights above the XML and settled on flat down like this










the build was a very quick hatchet job using an old Maglight head I had butchered a few years ago 
these are the only pics I took yesterday


























and the nearly finished article


























Sorry Golddigger for not following the theme but as it was a quickie I hope you dont mind

Yes it is 50 mm the light seems huge and does warm up pretty quickly 
A 4 XML version would be a right bastard to cool couldnt do it with a mag head I think would have to make 
one with masses of fins

Thanks for the offer Jay If you arnt going to do it your self then I will give it a go

.
.
.
.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> Yes it is the XRE optic I tried to test differing heights above the XML and settled on flat down like this
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Mate, i really dont mind what people put on here, I was just pulling itess's leg yesterday.
Had a boring day on a customer site and it was the first chance of some sarcasm, sorry itess 

All we need to spice up the thread is emu's avatar picture and brads bikes stand


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Goldigger said:


> Mate, i really dont mind what people put on here, I was just pulling itess's leg yesterday.
> Had a boring day on a customer site and it was the first chance of some sarcasm, sorry itess
> 
> All we need to spice up the thread is emu's avatar picture and brads bikes stand


Yeah I know

Dont forget Round bottomed fins :eekster:


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

I'm staying out of this until I have tool, or is that a toy, that'll let me play with the big boys.

But not wanting to disappoint










Troutie, if you're building a quad xml you might need some of what she is offering to get it going


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

emu26 said:


> I'm staying out of this until I have tool, or is that a toy, that'll let me play with the big boys.
> 
> But not wanting to disappoint
> 
> ...


I'll quiet happily take anything shes offering, I hope the face is as nice as the rear


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Here's my bike stand


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Goldigger said:


> I'll quiet happily take anything shes offering, I hope the face is as nice as the rear


A Challenge for the CNC lot. Make a light in the shape of. Emus avatar 
never mind square lets have. curvy


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

More than happy to contribute

I did find the front shot but I don't think the moderators would allow it


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

brad72 said:


> I did find the front shot but I don't think the moderators would allow it


I think they're all asleep. :thumbsup: 
Besides, theres too many tails in this headlight thread.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Perfect combination there Brad :thumbsup: 

Nice firm, hard, tail and some sagging suspension up front. Well they are RST so they won't still be well sprung  

what was this thread originally about


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I've put the switch and m8 connector in..Just got to drill some holes for the cables to get to the leds.. 
Thanks George for the H6Flex turned up today, ordered 6 days ago and it's here already :thumbsup:
Groove milled for DIY rubber gasket..








Rubber gasket in place..


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Fantastic GD. :thumbsup:


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

brad72 said:


> Fantastic GD. :thumbsup:


Cheers Brad. 
It's strange I've knocked this one out pretty quick, but dont really like it.


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

Damn it you finished yours.

I put all mine on hold trying to my dirt bike ready for this season and putting a new frame on my mtn bike. Looks like I'm going to have to hurry up and complete mine. =]


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I'm ready to wire it up now, can anyone confirm if part b in artic silver adhesive is the hardner?
Or will part A just harden over time and bond the led to the ali?


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

Mix it in a 1:1 ratio on a bit of paper/scrap material then apply, hold in place with something heavy/clamp/rubber band. Make a cuppa, come back after about an hour, full strength will take longer.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Ah mate..I don't want it to harden encased I need to remove the leds..that's why I asked if part b was the hardener like a normal two part epoxy


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## rschultz101 (Oct 5, 2009)

In case you want to remove it,
use regular stuff, but then you want to screw down the LED star,
what means threads.
other option, is to use some silicon around the the star,
the hot melt glue, is no good, since it gets soft, when the LED gets hot.


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

Let's face it, in reality you won't want to remove them, you'll be too busy with the next light, and even if you do, they will come off with some persuasion.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Am I reading the h6flex tech sheet correctly, default setting is 1400mah?
so when I turn it on its 50mah hold the momentary switch in and its 1400mah on high?

seems to bright for 1400mah


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

I have removed plenty of LEDs that have been glued with the epoxy. I usually heat the housing a bit then rotate the led board whilst gripping it with some needle nose pliers


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

All wired up apart from the led in the momentary switch as i dont have the correct resistor..
Gave it a quick polish...


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

That is looking really good Goldigger, well done.

Do you have a right angle cable entry by any chance?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

emu26 said:


> That is looking really good Goldigger, well done.
> 
> Do you have a right angle cable entry by any chance?


Cheers emu..

I do have a right angle connector, the one in the pic is the one on my battery pack for my tripple P7..

Just off up the woods for some beam shots...


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Here's the beamshots Tripple XML vs Tripple P7 at max level XML 3000mah and P7 2800mah.


































Heres' a fair test 2800mah on both

















The Tripple XML seems to take longer to heat up than the tripple P7

The camera started to over expose the shots on the tripple XML in the usual spot i take my pics.. place in the 2 shots above.


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## xyz-saft (Sep 23, 2010)

I love this thread! The idea is great. I'm thinking about building a light with a couple of xm-l and probably at least one LC1. But I'm afraid it's not very floody. Am I right? Are there any other good optics for the xm-l that is a bit more floody?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

xyz-saft said:


> I love this thread! The idea is great. I'm thinking about building a light with a couple of xm-l and probably at least one LC1. But I'm afraid it's not very floody. Am I right? Are there any other good optics for the xm-l that is a bit more floody?


Here's what one LC1 and an XML looks like: 

















I really like the beam they produce with the XML's.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

YettiBetti, Kan3, Piesoup did you finish your tripples?


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Mine is still stuck in the lathe untill my mill arrives in about 3 weeks.

How are you getting on Piesoup? You are doing what I had hoped to do but my lathe is too small (could do a double on it though).


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

yetibetty said:


> Mine is still stuck in the lathe untill my mill arrives in about 3 weeks.
> 
> How are you getting on Piesoup? You are doing what I had hoped to do but my lathe is too small (could do a double on it though).


Which Mill are you getting?


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

LOL I asked the same question as soon as I read that last post.

He's found a nice looking local one, but I won't steal his thunder


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Made the mounts for it today as i have a night ride on wednesday..and want to use this light.
Went for simple double O-ring type mounts out of delrin, no point doing them from ali as i have carbon bars..
I also added the extra bolts on the face plate...


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Nice! The extra bolts finish it off.
I keep meaning to get some Delrin. What's it like to work with?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

yetibetty said:


> Nice! The extra bolts finish it off.
> I keep meaning to get some Delrin. What's it like to work with?


Cheer's
I really like working with delrin, it's really easy to work with.
You can take big cuts and it still gets a pretty good finish


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Looks very swish there Jay .

do we have an all up weight for the beast .

would look good on a Pace RC200


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## odtexas (Oct 2, 2008)

:thumbsup: Awesome looking light.:thumbsup:


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> Looks very swish there Jay .
> 
> do we have an all up weight for the beast .
> 
> would look good on a Pace RC200


It's roughly 225grams, so no weight weeny..but should handly the 3amps nicely without tripping the thermal protection set at 60 degrees.


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## Toaster79 (Apr 5, 2010)

Another beautiful build!:thumbsup:


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

Forgot to update

I finished all 4 housings awhile ago and was just holding off as I'm going to send them in with my other items to be anodized. I ended up deciding to use those cat eye mounts so I removed some fins on the bottom. I compensated by adding another .5mm to the fin depth and doing deeper stepped fins on the back. Went ahead and added the mount point for the maxflex in the cam files since it seemed silly not to have the machine do it? The revised units with nothing but the housing weight in at 95g.

The other units in the pics are my dirt bike lights. They're a 6up xpg setup with reginas and h6flex. The little guy weights 1/2lb and the bigger ones come in at 1lb fully built.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

kan3 said:


> Forgot to update
> 
> I finished all 4 housings awhile ago and was just holding off as I'm going to send them in with my other items to be anodized. I ended up deciding to use those cat eye mounts so I removed some fins on the bottom. I compensated by adding another .5mm to the fin depth and doing deeper stepped fins on the back. Went ahead and added the mount point for the maxflex in the cam files since it seemed silly not to have the machine do it? The revised units with nothing but the housing weight in at 95g.
> 
> The other units in the pics are my dirt bike lights. They're a 6up xpg setup with reginas and h6flex. The little guy weights 1/2lb and the bigger ones come in at 1lb fully built.


Nice work, shows how good the cnc is for making batches..

Cant help but notice the voucher in the 3rd picture.. Is that for the strippers?


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Goldigger said:


> Nice work, shows how good the cnc is for making batches..
> 
> Cant help but notice the voucher in the 3rd picture.. Is that for the strippers?


For $10 I bet if it is, she doesn't look like the one on the voucher


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

emu26 said:


> For $10 I bet if it is, she doesn't look like the one on the voucher


I wonder what the free one looks like
Probably best in the darkest corner of the strip joint..


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

Victoria Secret coupon my wife is saving. I figured someone would mention that there. =]


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

kan3 said:


> Victoria Secret coupon my wife is saving. I figured someone would mention that there. =]


It's ok if you like to play dress up in womens undies...really you dont have to say its not yours


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

:cornut:


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I took my tripple xml out tonight, 25mins 4 miles.
Had the light on low down the road to the bridge that cross's the rail way..about 3 mins.
Off the bike and up the stairs to have to wait for a bunch of youths coming down. So over the bridge down the steps and turn the triple on to high, up the track that goes through a field and onto the edge of the golf course. Then into the woods..and follow the track to the lane.. turn onto another bit of single track.
Felt the light every now and then, only ever felt warm.. never tripped the thermal protection. Thought it might when I was climbing the steps over another bridge over the rail way..sat at the top of the steps umming and arring if I should ride down the steps..thought better of it and wimped out..
Happy with the light, might make some more and see what interest I get on eBay.


I think around the 200 gram mark works well when running 3 xmls at 3 amps.


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

Don't know if eBay would be best? Maybe somewhere like stw classifieds?


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

hi there Jay. Have you had many more opportunities to take the beast out with the UK summer approaching? the light looks fantastic all polished up. I assume your using a buff mop and cutting compound?


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

Hmmm

I'm trying to decide if I should drop my 6up xpg setup for a 3up xml setup for my dirt bike lights. I don't know if the xml produces enough throw though. The xpg is good for expressway travel but I guess I'll have to buy some and try it out. It would save me $12 on each build.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Not been out for a couple off weeks..work and diving got in the way..
Polishing is done with a high tech approach..wet n dry, different grades finishing with 2500. Then is use autosol metal polish to shine it off..


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

kan3 said:


> Hmmm
> 
> I'm trying to decide if I should drop my 6up xpg setup for a 3up xml setup for my dirt bike lights. I don't know if the xml produces enough throw though. The xpg is good for expressway travel but I guess I'll have to buy some and try it out. It would save me $12 on each build.


if you're looking for throw, best bet would be to add a couple of aspherics to the optic mix - I'm not sure if any of the current sub-35mm optics/ reflectors throw enough for motorbikes


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

mattthemuppet said:


> if you're looking for throw, best bet would be to add a couple of aspherics to the optic mix - I'm not sure if any of the current sub-35mm optics/ reflectors throw enough for motorbikes


My critical dimension is actually the height of the optic. I can only fit something that's roughly 15mm tall assuming a 1.5mm pcb. For width I could squeeze 2 25mm optics/reflectors on one side and up to a 35mm on the other. Unfortunately, if the optic/reflector cost a lot more than the $1.85ea I can get a regina for then it'll eat into the price advantage.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

might be worth checking out Troutie's, GD's and Huffy's aspheric threads, as they know more than I do about focusing heights and costs. AFAIK all that matters with aspherics is getting the focus height right, which I think is ~8mm above die for the 20-25mm aspherics, then the lens itself can stick out of the housing.

If it's down to cost, aspherics will probably lose - they seem to be hard to get hold of and in the $4+ range.

Perhaps an idea for a future iteration?


----------

