# Lightening my 2013 specialized rockhopper 29er



## buzzo2012 (Jul 20, 2012)

I'm in need of some help in lightening my rockhopper 29er any input is greatly appreciated and links to thanks in advanced

Btw I'm a noob so I really do appreciate the help I'm just gettin back into serious biking after 8 years

Thanks again







And of course the bike for you guys to look at


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## Marfo (Apr 17, 2007)

Wheels. Depending on your weight, but a wheelset with some good reliable hubs (Hope, DT, Shimano, or maybe some Tune or American classic ones if you want something lighter) + Stans crest rims should do the trick. Make sure you get a good builder to build them for you.


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## buzzo2012 (Jul 20, 2012)

I weigh 215 and I'm 6 feet tall


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## pfox90 (Aug 8, 2010)

Don't buy stans crests then, they have a weight limit of 190


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## buzzo2012 (Jul 20, 2012)

ok do you have any suggestions of what i can do to reduce the weight of my bike


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## Tim_ (Jun 15, 2006)

Remove your reflectors. 

Give us a spec sheet of what's on your bike already.

Lightweight tires and tubes are probably the CHEAPEST route. Better wheels are going to lighten it up a lot, but you're going to spend around $500 to save 2-4 lbs there.

How much does it weigh now?


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## buzzo2012 (Jul 20, 2012)

i dont know the exact weight dont have a way of weighing it 

here is the spec sheet you wanted
FRAME	Specialized A1 Premium Aluminum, 29er frame, fully butted w/ tapered headtube, forged dropouts, alloy replaceable der. hanger
REAR SHOCK	
FORK	SR Suntour SF13-XCM-LO 29", hydraulic damping w/ lockout, coil/MCU spring, 1-1/8" steel steerer, alloy disc only post mount lower, 30mm Hi-Ten stanchion, preload adj., 80mm & 100mm travel
HEADSET	Integrated 1-1/8" w/ lower bearing reducer, Campy-style, full cartridge bearings
STEM	Specialized 3D forged alloy, 4 bolt clamp, 6º rise, 31.8mm
HANDLEBARS	Flat bar, 6061 double butted alloy, 700mm wide, 10º backsweep, 4º upsweep, 31.8mm
GRIPS	Specialized Body Geometry XCT, Kraton rubber w/ gel, closed end, 132mm, lock-on
FRONT BRAKE	Tektro HDC 300, hydraulic disc, dual piston, Lightwave style rotor, 180mm
REAR BRAKE	Tektro HDC 300, hydraulic disc, dual piston, Lightwave style rotor, 160mm
BRAKE LEVERS	Tektro, hydraulic lever
FRONT DERAILLEUR	Shimano Acera, 9-speed, 34.9 clamp, high-mount, bottom swing
REAR DERAILLEUR	Shimano Alivio, 9-speed, SGS cage
SHIFT LEVERS	Shimano Acera, 9-speed Rapidfire plus, SL type w/ optical display
CASSETTE	Shimano HG20-9, 9-speed cassette, 11-34
CHAIN	KMC X-9, 9-speed w/ reusable Missing Link
CRANKSET	SR Suntour XCR, 9-speed, Octalink
CHAINRINGS	44/32/22, steel
BOTTOM BRACKET	Shimano, Octalink spline, cartridge bearing, 73mm
PEDALS	Composite platform, w/ reflectors, 9/16"
RIMS	RH Disc, 29", alloy double-wall, 26mm, pin joint, 36h
FRONT HUB	Specialized MTB disc hub, alloy, Hi Lo flange, RCC ball bearing system, steel axle, QR, 32h
REAR HUB	Specialized MTB disc hub, alloy, Hi Lo flange, RCC ball bearing system, steel axle, steel cassette body, QR, 32h
SPOKES	Stainless, 2.0mm (14g)
FRONT TIRE	Specialized Ground Control Sport, 29x2.1", wire bead, 60TPI
REAR TIRE	Specialized Ground Control Sport, 29x2.1", wire bead, 60TPI
INNER TUBES	Presta valve
SADDLE	Specialized Body Geometry Rockhopper, steel rails, 143mm width
SEATPOST	Alloy two bolt, 12.5mm offset, micro adjust, 30.9mm, 350mm or 400mm
SEAT BINDER	34.9mm, alloy QR, nylon washer
NOTES	chainstay protector, reflectors, clear coat, owners manual


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## Tim_ (Jun 15, 2006)

Do you have a bathroom scale in your house? Weigh yourself, then pick up your bike and weigh you and your bike, then subtract your own weight from that total. It wont be super accurate, but it's better than nothing.

Looking at the spec sheet, the RH with the A1 frame is the entry level. It's a little heavier than the M5, but it's also fitted with all the lower end components. Now that's not to say the components are no good - they work fine - but they are all going to be a little heavier than their more expensive models. With that in mind, I would replace what you can budget for with better stuff when the original stuff wears out.

How much do you want to spend on this project? Unfortunately you might find that the cost of making your bike lighter plus the initial purchase of the bike will cost more than if you'd purchased the higher end RH or Stumpjumper. I've been in your shoes myself.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

tried to list these in the order of priority but the real world will vary some.


Phase 1:
These could possibly save you 1-2 pounds for pretty cheap if you shop around for the new parts and look for the best deals.

Handlebars 
Seat post 
Stem
Tubeless Kit for Tires
----------------------

Phase 2:
These can add up to more weight savings of 2-4 pounds but will cost more.

Brake Levers
Brake Calipers
Cassette
Bottom Bracket
Shifters
Front Derailleur
Rear Derailleur 
----------------------

Phase 3:

More expensive per item but weight savings could be the most significant too.
Front Shock
Rear Shock
Wheels (Rim + Hub + Spokes)
Carbon Bike Frame


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## Tim_ (Jun 15, 2006)

I think he's already removed the rear shock listed in phase 3.


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## Huskywolf (Feb 8, 2012)

Just go out and ride it man. At 200 pounds you shouldn't be worrying about weight on your bike just yet.


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## ijd (Jul 20, 2011)

First thing I'd do is wheels, light tires & tubeless conversion. Ashima brake rotors are light and cheap so they can also be fitted if the budget allows. Are those pedals plastic? If they are I'd replace them with Wellgo MG1's or Shimano SPD's. 
Next thing I'd do is handle bars & seatpost. Other than that I'd leave the bike as is and upgrade parts as they wear out or get a higher end bike in a few years and put the upgraded parts (wheels, handle bar, seapost) onto the new bike.


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## limba (Jan 9, 2004)

Ride it until something breaks/wears out and then replace that part with something better and lighter.


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## buzzo2012 (Jul 20, 2012)

Thanx


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## Rev. 14 (Jan 22, 2012)

Well first of all it is a nice bike, I like that paint job. Depends on the budget. You may be like me and have to do it little by little. I would not do it in phases, but maybe you would. I personally would just buy what I can afford, IMO.

First there is 454 grams in a pound. Most bike parts are all weighed in grams. You want to save a pound then you have save 454 grams somewhere on the bike.

1. I would go with some Easton Haven Carbon bars, 170g. Depending on your weight, if your under 200lbs I would go with Easton EC70 bars, 155g. If you have money I would go with Schmolke Carbon Low riser TLO bars [these suckers weight 90g as opposed to your specialized bars that may weigh about 280g-300g].

Depending on what you go with you could save from 220g-120g on nice carbon bar.

2. I would go with a seat and seat post. THere is thread going on about this in "weight weenies" but I'll drop a couple of seats that are most comfortable and light. They both weight in at about 120g. The first is Selle San Marco Aspide Carbon FX, its available in black too. The second is the 2012 Selle Italia Kit carbino SLR Flow saddle. From your stock seat, which may weight in at about 280-300g or more, you could be saving around 180g! That is nice.

Next a carbon post. I would go with the slick looking Fizik Cyrano carbon stem. It weighs in around 200g and would save you about 100g from your stock post. If you really want lighter you do a KCNC Scandium - 152gm, this would save you about 150g or less, over your stock steel post.

3. Front Shock. Well I recommend Rockshox Reba, light weight fork great reputation (weighs in at 1584g). Next in the Reba weight category I would recommend the Fox Float 29 shock, its been revamped for 2013 year with CTD technology and its now lighter than the 2012 Fox (now weighs 1710grams). Then you have the lightest of my recommendations and that is the 2013 Rockshox SID fork, weights are variable depending on which one you go with but the World cup SID starts at 1450g to heaviest SID XX at 1643g. Of course it all depends on funds. The shock will be the most expensive so far. All shock listed here could average around $600-$900. You will save probably around 250g on replacing a shock or more. THe best bang for your buck if on a budget would be the Reba.

4. Crankset. I'll recommend one of the lightest. You could also go 2x10 for even lighter weight savings. RaceFace makes the "Next SL carbon" crankset (the 2x10 is 595g) (3x10 is 682g) now this is light! You could save another 250-300grams off your stock crankset. There is also XTR crankset 3x10 (755g), then SRAM Xo crankset 3x10 (780g).

5. Brakes: I would only recommend XT or XTR brakes. THe XT brakes weigh in at 590 front and rear, XTR trail brakes are 516g front and rear combined. Then XTR race brakes are 480g front and rear. Best are XTR, not far behind are XT. I have XT and love em. These will save you aprox. 150g or more.

6. Rear cassette: Go with a SRAM XX, it weighs in at 211g and will save you probably close to 200g.

7. Cables: go with Power Cordz, these will probably save you around 50g.

8. Derailleur: XTR Shadow plux is only 226g and may save you 80-100g.

9. Shifters, XTR or XX, this would have to depend on your preference but there is some savings on weight to be had here.

10. Wheels: This depends on your weight. Over 200 less options, under 200 many more options. This is one the best places to spend your money. IF you sell the bike you can keep the wheels and put them on your new bike. Weight savings depends on what you go with, carbon or aluminum, rim width, hubs, spokes, or stock build, etc. Too many to list to give a concrete weight or the actual savings.

11. Tires. Lighter tires can also make a huge difference. Some can weigh as low as 490g and upwards of 950g and more. Seems like your weigh in at 670g and that is a respectable weight.

So I hope this helps somewhat or gives you some ideas of what you can do. These are in no particular order, but only in the order you want and according to your budget. Many will probably disagree with my recommendations but that is all they are. IMO...


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## Rev. 14 (Jan 22, 2012)

I meant to tell you, as you now have suspected that to lighten a bike it costs and you will pay for it. The lighter you go more you pay. Some say the best thing to do is buy a bike that is already lighter, but again you will pay. I suspect that those spending 2-5 grand on a bike still cant leave it alone. YOu always customize, a little here and a little there.


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## buzzo2012 (Jul 20, 2012)

I'm gonna start doing some shopping prob start with wheels first then bars stem and seat post and saddle it's gonna be fun to manage my money since I already have a bad habit of spending money on my jeep which has fox shocks already and Ik it's not cheap to customize stuff already but I will post updates as I get them thank you all for the advice 

Time to go shopping


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## Gorky_Park (Oct 7, 2011)

Rev. 14 said:


> Well first of all it is a nice bike, I like that paint job. Depends on the budget. You may be like me and have to do it little by little. I would not do it in phases, but maybe you would. I personally would just buy what I can afford, IMO.
> 
> First there is 454 grams in a pound. Most bike parts are all weighed in grams. You want to save a pound then you have save 454 grams somewhere on the bike.
> 
> ...


Such a wealth of great info-should be a sticky for a beginner weight weenie


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## Matty P (Aug 27, 2012)

yeah lighter wheels


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