# Blew out 2 Hubs on Stache in the last 3 Months, need other options...



## mcbiko (May 22, 2015)

Helping out my bro-in-law - he's 6ft8 and about 310lbs. He's destroyed 2 hubs in the last 3 months so he's hesitant to go down the same path again. The wheel was on a 2020 Trek Stache hardtail. We're not sure if this is a Stache issue or just purely the 310lbs. Please give some recommendations for a budget (sub $400) bomb proof wheel/hub combo. He might end up just getting a different bike.


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## 2SLOFATASS (Mar 26, 2020)

Ya get what ya pay for. Spend a bit more and get the best hubs in the business. ONYX.
Torture tested from minus 30F, to beat to heck on the trails.


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## 2SLOFATASS (Mar 26, 2020)

Oh yeah, and it's on a ebike to boot.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Destroyed hubs? What was destroyed? What failed?


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Cleared2land said:


> Destroyed hubs? What was destroyed? What failed?


Guessing the freehub body [bearings] detonated. Common failure with those Formula rebrands.

310 is going to be a tough order, and doubly so since the bike uses 3" wide tires (so, rims that are 40+mm). That, unfortunately, places your brother on the fringe, and the fringe is expensive. DT350 Hybrid laced to a 40mm inner rim (WTB, Sun Ringle, Velocity).

$0.02: The bike industry in general tends to point towards underbuilt for the average individual. You could get a DT350 Hybrid with 36 spokes, laced to a Velocity Dually with appropriate spokes (Sapim Strong or DT Alpine, due to spoke requirements of the hub), and it'll be about as robust as you can buy with modern parts.

If you have a trusted shop/individual you work with, they could build said wheel, or even Velocity directly, if you wanted to avoid as much work as possible...the catch is that said wheel would cost close to/over $600.


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## mcbiko (May 22, 2015)

Yeah, likely the freehub body. When I tried to remove the cassette the hub body just fell right off and the pawls and tiny springs fell out. I've had good luck with regular DT 350 hubs, I'll take a look at those hybrid hubs.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Freehub, not hubs. Okay, two different components.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Bitex/BHS hubs. Bikehubstore

I weight close to what your friend is. Have them now on 2 bikes. My fat bike is BHS and been tortured for 4-5 years or more (I lost track lol) From -10F snow and ice, to 90F Missouri humidity, jumped into lakes and left to float and so on. Only thing I did was remove caps and such, put marine grease in for a layer between caps and bearings. I will repeat after each winter which takes 10 minutes. Remove caps, clean, new marine grease and go. Haven't touched a bearing. 

Boost hubs on my 2020 stumpy from BITEX/BHS. Season 2 still smooth as glass and solid.

I will say the fat is on steel freehub body, stumpy has the anti-bite one I think.

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## Clyde Ride (Jun 7, 2019)

mcbiko said:


> Helping out my bro-in-law - he's 6ft8 and about 310lbs. He's destroyed 2 hubs in the last 3 months so he's hesitant to go down the same path again. The wheel was on a 2020 Trek Stache hardtail. We're not sure if this is a Stache issue or just purely the 310lbs. Please give some recommendations for a budget (sub $400) bomb proof wheel/hub combo. He might end up just getting a different bike.


Why would he just replace the bike? It won't necessarily solve the problem.


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## Krapper2 (Sep 11, 2020)

mcbiko said:


> Yeah, likely the freehub body. When I tried to remove the cassette the hub body just fell right off and the pawls and tiny springs fell out. I've had good luck with regular DT 350 hubs, I'll take a look at those hybrid hubs.


What was the symptom that made you decide to remove the cassette? Why do you think the hub is toast? Sounds like the free hub came off the pawls fell out. This happens. Now if you said the axle cracked or the bearings were toast, that would be a failure. For many hubs the end caps pop off, and the free hub can be removed by hand. Sometime when pulling a cassette this can happen. There are guys on this forum that change cassettes from form wheel-to-wheel by popping the driver off.



Le Duke said:


> Remove wheel from bike.
> 
> Place on ground.
> 
> ...


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## mcbiko (May 22, 2015)

He walked the bike into the parking lot after saying that the chain kept coming off. When I examined it, the freehub was no longer able to move in reverse and felt really rough going forward. Also if I recall correctly, the endcap was loose while the wheel was still on the bike. When I removed the cassette lockring, the cassette with hub still attached fell right off along with pawls and springs. Most of the cassette is still stuck on the hub body - I didn't attempt to remove. Since it's only been about 5 rides since having this new freehub installed, I thought it best to bag everything up and have him take the wheel back to the bike shop that installed the freehub. I no longer have the parts in my possession so I can't examine further to see how much damage there is. Maybe he'll get lucky and it just came loose - although this seems unlikely to me.

As far as switching bikes, he has been contemplating a full suspension. However, if he is confident that the Stache will be reliable going forward, he's happy to keep riding it. My one worry with the Stache is that I'd read something about the bike flexing and that it was not ideal for heavy riders - I can't remember if I read it on this forum or elsewhere. 

Tigris, I'd also read great reviews about those Bitex freehubs and they seem to be affordable. Also if a slightly narrower rim with maybe a 2.6 or 2.8 rear is a better option, then we could go with that. I think even if the existing freehub is salvageable, the plan is to build up a better quality rear wheel.


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

If the BHS hubs don’t work out, then DT350. Onyx would be the best. 

And yes, typically money solves this problem. I’m running a Onyx hub, a solid carbon rim and 32 spokes, built by a pro. I’ve been at the other end though. Make sure you keep the original wheel as a back up. 

Recently I have been doing so well in regards to rear wheel longitivtiy, I sold my back up. Big mistake. I have a Stans wheel as my backup now, but I don’t know how robust the newer hubs are. 

Alloy carbon rims in the 29er format always de-tension in the chunk I ride but YMMV. 


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

DrDon said:


> Alloy carbon rims in the 29er format always de-tension in the chunk I ride but YMMV.


You are referring to spoke tension?


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## masonmoa (Jul 11, 2011)

First off, nothing is going to be "cheap" in the current market. Sucks, but just a matter of supply and demand. And unfortunately, your bro's experience is par for the course for anyone over like 275lbs, and especially over 3 bills. Same thing happened to me when I started riding again a decade ago at 330lbs. Bought what I thought was a bad ass Gary Fisher, blew the Shimano hub twice in like 2 months. (Couple of long walks back to the car...) Got on here and realized I was on the wrong bike and wrong wheels, and eventually sold the bike. 

But, I before I sold it, I got some custom wheels built. Chris King hubs with stainless drive shell laced to Stans Flows. I just sold those wheels a couple of months ago. CKs are $$ tho, and while I still have 3 CK wheel sets, I won't build another set with CK hubs cuz they got rid of 6-bolt hubs. Never had an issue with them tho. Also recently got some Onyx laced to Derby's and gotta say, solid product. Again, not cheap but I love the sound of just my tire tread on the trail with no bees buzzing all the time. There's plenty of talk on hubs on here, just do a search. 

If you want to avoid spokes de-tensioning, I use ProLock brass nipples along with a bit of linseed oil on all my wheels. Some may say it's overkill, but I still weigh 280ish and it has worked for me for a few years now. My friend who builds my wheels is a master builder and weighs 265lbs himself, so I do whatever he suggests.


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## bingemtbr (Apr 1, 2004)

I cannot recommend Chris King hubs highly enough. As mentioned above, you can upgrade the drive shell to stainless, as well as, the rear axle. I started riding CK hubs in 1997 (DiscoTech King Hubs). Those hubs outlasted 3 rim sets and are still in use on my wife's hardtail.

Regarding 6 bolt vs center lock, that's owed to the change in technology and today's standards. I have one set of CK's with Centerlock and 8 sets with ISO or DiscoTech. And I have to say, I really prefer center lock: one fastener accessible with a Park FR-5 and voila, the disc is off. ISO (6 bolt) has six torque bolts to remove to change discs. But to each their own.


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## SB Trails (Sep 14, 2012)

V1 onyx...


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

There's nothing wrong with the bike, and there's probably nothing wrong with the rim. I'd rebuild just the rear wheel with a DT350 hub, reusing the stock rim. If the front wheels isn't broken, don't bother "fixing" it. 

There is some weird and bad advice in this thread. Guy has a $400 budget and people are recommending the two most expensive hubs on the market and carbon rims??

Bitex hubs are a bad idea for anyone over 200lbs. I'm 215lbs and have destroyed every one I've ridden in a short period of time. It was an expensive mistake (4 wheelsets).

OP, if the cassette fell off when you removed the rear wheel it sounds like the rear axle was broken, not the freehub body?

You don't need CK or Onyx to build a strong wheel, the DT 350 is equally up to the task and half the price. New spokes and a good build from an experienced builder will get you a reliable wheel under your budget.


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## bingemtbr (Apr 1, 2004)

*OneSpeed* said:


> There is some weird and bad advice in this thread. Guy has a $400 budget and people are recommending the two most expensive hubs on the market and carbon rims??


Three of my King wheelsets are second hand. Not one of them cost more than $400. The OP may get lucky. I got one set on Ebay (R45 for the Bianchi road bike), another set on Craigslist (mtb wheelset in silver) and the 3rd set (blue CK mtb hubs on white rims) from a shop rat.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

An R45 non-disc set is a terrible price comparison to a modern Boost hubset, but I get your point.

Even used I don't think the OP can find a used CK rear hub and stay within budget.


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## bingemtbr (Apr 1, 2004)

*OneSpeed* said:


> An R45 non-disc set is a terrible price comparison to a modern Boost hubset, but I get your point.
> 
> Even used I don't think the OP can find a used CK rear hub and stay within budget.


LOL. The R45 is for my 20+ year old steal Bianchi road bike. The hubs, bb, and hs are all King. The rest of the bike is Campy.

I will admit, I am a CK fanboy.


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## mcbiko (May 22, 2015)

Ok, pls go ahead and post some recommendations for a wheelbuilder. I've noticed a few advertised on Pinkbike and it looks like we can get a wheel built up with a DT350 freehub for just under $400.


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

Some that frequent these forums seek out the talented @mikesee. I've purchased several wheels(ets) from him throughout the past few years and have always been delighted with Mike's wheel knowledge, price, build quality & rapid service. Mike Curiak is his name, LaceMine29 is his website and before he sells you anything, Mike will make sure he understands what it is you need & want. I personally recommend him.
=sParty


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Chris King.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

If you’re going to get a new reset wheel, then I’d suggest a solid rim as well for your heavy bro. At least a DH Swiss ex511.


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## huckleberry hound (Feb 27, 2015)

*OneSpeed* said:


> There's nothing wrong with the bike, and there's probably nothing wrong with the rim. I'd rebuild just the rear wheel with a DT350 hub, reusing the stock rim. If the front wheels isn't broken, don't bother "fixing" it.
> 
> There is some weird and bad advice in this thread. Guy has a $400 budget and people are recommending the two most expensive hubs on the market and carbon rims??
> 
> New spokes and a good build from an experienced builder will get you a reliable wheel under your budget.


As a Stache owner who has been through 3 failed Duroc 50 rims and seen 2 others on my buddies' Staches I would not recommend this. They split at the spoke holes. Get a different rim to go along with the new hub. You might as well go ahead and get a 32 hole hub and rim. As others have said DT350 for the hub and I would go with either a Race Face Arc 40 or 45, or a WTB KOM Tough i40. There are also solid choices with Chinese carbon rims. I have BTLOS i39A on mine and they have been solid now for well over a year. I weigh about 260# kitted up.



unrooted said:


> Dt Swiss ex511


That is only an i30 rim. That is too small for a 3.0 tire.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

^ Oh, that sucks. Yeah, I've had one failed Duroc 50 myself. I replaced it with the SD42 which has held up fine. I agree the RF ARC or KOM Tough are excellent options for a clyde.


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## mcbiko (May 22, 2015)

Sparticus said:


> Some that frequent these forums seek out the talented @mikesee. I've purchased several wheels(ets) from him throughout the past few years and have always been delighted with Mike's wheel knowledge, price, build quality & rapid service. Mike Curiak is his name, LaceMine29 is his website and before he sells you anything, Mike will make sure he understands what it is you need & want. I personally recommend him.
> =sParty


I reached out to Mike for a quote. If anyone else has additional wheelbuilder recommendations, let me know. DT 350 with an Arc or KOM rim seem like they might just be affordable.


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## masonmoa (Jul 11, 2011)

mcbiko said:


> Ok, pls go ahead and post some recommendations for a wheelbuilder.


Where you located?


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## masonmoa (Jul 11, 2011)

*OneSpeed* said:


> There's nothing wrong with the bike, and there's probably nothing wrong with the rim. I'd rebuild just the rear wheel with a DT350 hub, reusing the stock rim. If the front wheels isn't broken, don't bother "fixing" it.
> 
> There is some weird and bad advice in this thread. Guy has a $400 budget and people are recommending the two most expensive hubs on the market and carbon rims??


Agree about the bike. As for the hub/wheel, I just sold my 10 year old 29er wheel set w/ CK hubs at a price dude could have afforded. If he only needs one used rear wheel, his budget is definitely reasonable. And I didn't recommend carbon rims, it's just what I'm fortunate enough to be able to use. I'm pretty sure my first rim mention was for Stan's Flows that cost like $75-80 for a new rim at the time.


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## mcbiko (May 22, 2015)

masonmoa said:


> Where you located?


Georgia


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## masonmoa (Jul 11, 2011)

mcbiko said:


> Georgia


Well, I'm on the west coast, so can't help ya on Any good bike shops in the area? I mean, any reputable bike shop that carries higher end brand bikes should have someone in there who can build a decent wheel. And like others have said, the rim is probably fine. Just need a solid hub.


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## mcbiko (May 22, 2015)

Update: amazingly the hub was covered under warranty and Trek is replacing free of charge. In addition, since they don't have any of the same hub in stock, he's getting a free upgrade - they didn't say what this so called upgrade is, but we'll give it a shot. Might still end up later buying a quality wheel along lines of DT 350 with ARC rim.


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## Clyde Ride (Jun 7, 2019)

mcbiko said:


> Update: amazingly the hub was covered under warranty and Trek is replacing free of charge. In addition, since they don't have any of the same hub in stock, he's getting a free upgrade - they didn't say what this so called upgrade is, but we'll give it a shot. Might still end up later buying a quality wheel along lines of DT 350 with ARC rim.


I would upgrade and call the replacement a backup, but that's me.


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

Cleared2land said:


> You are referring to spoke tension?


Yes. And only top wheel builders build my wheels. Also, often they are quicker than the LBS. My wheels tell me I'm fat. 
1. Lacemine29
2. Speeddream wheels

And I agree, DT350 is the best investment hub for the money. And if you're not having problems with your rim, then there's no need to go carbon.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

I serially trash hubs too. 
My best was about 5 in one year. 

The failure mechanism was normally torque twist on hub causing Pawls to misalign and shatter. 

The way around this is to move away from Pawls. 
Chris King was my solution. It uses a star ratchet, but unlike DT, it's executed well. 
It has a helical spline to force the faces together. The harder you push, the stronger the clamping force. The hub engages at 72 point simultaneously, its all or nothing, so no weak points. 

DT swiss just use a spring, so any twist and you get misengagment. Hence why their drives are so low engagement. 

The other solution is the afformentioned onyx. They use a sprag bearing. I've not tried it, but seems a clever solution. 

My Chris King is ~15 years old. Used multiple times a week. Still on first set of bearings. 
Quality lasts.


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## Sasquatch1413 (Nov 6, 2008)

Easiest recommendation to make, DT350. Cheapest bulletproof hub you can get. Onyx is good but powerful riders can crack the hub shells, I've done it and know a few others. Seriously, I can't stress this enough, get a DT350.


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## mcbiko (May 22, 2015)

For a heavy rider, is there a difference in reliability between 18T, 36T, and 54T for DT 350 freehubs? Honestly, I don't think he needs a high degree of engagement as 95% of riding is on flowey trails.


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

mcbiko said:


> For a heavy rider, is there a difference in reliability between 18T, 36T, and 54T for DT 350 freehubs? Honestly, I don't think he needs a high degree of engagement as 95% of riding is on flowey trails.


Yes. The higher engagement fails faster. That's the problem with the design.


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## bingemtbr (Apr 1, 2004)

CaveGiant said:


> Yes. The higher engagement fails faster. That's the problem with the design.


Maybe I am misreading this. Are you stating that 54t is in general a weaker solution than 18t? I.e. higher engagement is prone to failing quicker by design?? I have never heard this before. Is this based on your own experiences? If so, what brands/models of hubs have given you fits?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

54t...I have not heard of more failures, but I have heard of more chipped teeth on the 54's. From a mechanical perspective, it seems plausible because of the smaller contact surface area of the teeth. Additionally, some use too thick of a grease or just too much and with small teeth, we observe a greater propensity for slipping. Especially with a big guy mashing. 

I never experienced any chipped teeth or had any issues with the two 350 wheel sets that I had.


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

I'm in same position as cleared. 2nd hand info. 
54t teeth chipping. 

I researched this quite a bit due to my hub failures, and went with the Chris King for this reason. 

The only thing that backs it up is a simple question. 
If there is no disadvantage to the 54t why ship hubs with less? No other other manufacturers (I'm aware of) have multiple options for engagement without the caveat that more poe = weaker.


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## Kristian94568 (Sep 6, 2016)

I've gone thru 2 sets of rear wheels on my Stache. Currently, have Colorado Cyclist build me a set of Raceface hoops laced on 32H DT Swiss350. Hopefully that will help


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## Clyde Ride (Jun 7, 2019)

CaveGiant said:


> I'm in same position as cleared. 2nd hand info.
> 54t teeth chipping.
> 
> I researched this quite a bit due to my hub failures, and went with the Chris King for this reason.
> ...


Money.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Never mind what we spend on our bikes.


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## masonmoa (Jul 11, 2011)

Sasquatch1413 said:


> Easiest recommendation to make, DT350. Cheapest bulletproof hub you can get. Onyx is good but powerful riders can crack the hub shells, I've done it and know a few others. Seriously, I can't stress this enough, get a DT350.


I'm going to try to banish that fact I read your post the second I post this. My two most recent wheel sets are Onyx! I love the quiet and no problems over the past 7 months. I do all my climbing sitting because if I stand up, things break, so fingers crossed. 🤞🤞🤞


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## dsciulli19 (Apr 14, 2014)

Sparticus said:


> Some that frequent these forums seek out the talented @mikesee. I've purchased several wheels(ets) from him throughout the past few years and have always been delighted with Mike's wheel knowledge, price, build quality & rapid service. Mike Curiak is his name, LaceMine29 is his website and before he sells you anything, Mike will make sure he understands what it is you need & want. I personally recommend him.
> =sParty


I wouldn't hesitate to work with Mike -- I didn't end up going forward with the wheelset I was considering but in our initial talks he was very thorough and an all around good guy!

-DS


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## mcbiko (May 22, 2015)

Anyone here got experience riding Raceface Arc rims? If he gets a new wheel, then we've decided on the DT350 hub, just not sure on the rims. Also the one quote I've received is right at $500 which is about $100 more than he wanted to spend, but includes shipping. He might just ride this new hub until it detonates and then buy a replacement wheel.. not sure yet.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

mcbiko said:


> Anyone here got experience riding Raceface Arc rims? If he gets a new wheel, then we've decided on the DT350 hub, just not sure on the rims. Also the one quote I've received is right at $500 which is about $100 more than he wanted to spend, but includes shipping. He might just ride this new hub until it detonates and then buy a replacement wheel.. not sure yet.


They're a bit heavier than Durocs in the same size, therefor a bit stronger. If you aren't damaging the Durocs already, there's really no reason to swap.


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## mcbiko (May 22, 2015)

What do you guys think about this wheelset? With coupon it looks like the total would be about $615.


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## huckleberry hound (Feb 27, 2015)

mcbiko said:


> What do you guys think about this wheelset? With coupon it looks like the total would be about $615.


I would get the DT Comp spokes over the Champion spokes.


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## mcbiko (May 22, 2015)

Would actually be $600 flat as the default was XD and HG is less. Besides the spokes, does that set look Clyde worthy? BTW, what's the practical difference between the comp and the champion spokes?


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## huckleberry hound (Feb 27, 2015)

mcbiko said:


> Would actually be $600 flat as the default was XD and HG is less. Besides the spokes, does that set look Clyde worthy? BTW, what's the practical difference between the comp and the champion spokes?


Years ago I remember Mikesee replying in a post that butted spokes were actually better for a Clyde than straight gauge spokes. IIRC it was something along the lines of them being able to flex a bit therefore they wouldn't break unlike the straight gauge spokes. You also need to change the front hub option to 110mm 6 bolt instead of centerlock. As far as the rest of the build it looks pretty solid.


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## Clyde Ride (Jun 7, 2019)

masonmoa said:


> I'm going to try to banish that fact I read your post the second I post this. My two most recent wheel sets are Onyx! I love the quiet and no problems over the past 7 months. I do all my climbing sitting because if I stand up, things break, so fingers crossed. 🤞🤞🤞


Respectfully, this is crazy. Ride. Don't worry about it. My Onyx Vespers have been awesome, but I wouldn't think that if I have to baby them.


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## mcbiko (May 22, 2015)

Another question about spokes - from that Colorado cyclist wheelset link: how do I know which spokes are double butted? Can someone suggest the exact spokes I should select - weight is not an issue, we just want budget spokes that are reliable for a heavy rider.

When I select the DT competition 2.0/1.8mm (14/15), under the details it shows double butted. This is the next level up from the default DT Champion.


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## huckleberry hound (Feb 27, 2015)

You want the DT Competition spokes in either black or silver.


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## brawlo (Mar 13, 2012)

huckleberry hound said:


> Years ago I remember Mikesee replying in a post that butted spokes were actually better for a Clyde than straight gauge spokes. IIRC it was something along the lines of them being able to flex a bit therefore they wouldn't break unlike the straight gauge spokes.


The best way to envisage the benefits and exaggerate them is to do a little exercise where you grab a rubber band and then separately a piece of string. Pull your hands apart until the band/string stops them. Your hands are the j-bend/hub and the rim. The straight gauge spoke is the string and the butted is the band. That hard force at the limit in the string impacts your spoke holes and j-bend/hub. The butted spoke has a little give and lessens the impact thus giving your parts more longevity. They will still fatigue eventually, it just happens later with butted spokes. A trade off of butted spokes is a tiny amount of wheel flex, but for a big guy that can be a good thing.


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## mcbiko (May 22, 2015)

We ended up ordering a rear wheel with a DT350 hybrid hub (heavier duty than the standard DT350) and ARC40 rims from Mikesee. He was responsive to my emails (unlike prowheelbuilder) and seems to get solid reviews on this website so we thought we'd give him a shot. I'll provide an additional update in the future.


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

mcbiko said:


> We ended up ordering a rear wheel with a DT350 hybrid hub (heavier duty than the standard DT350) and ARC40 rims from Mikesee. He was responsive to my emails (unlike prowheelbuilder) and seems to get solid reviews on this website so we thought we'd give him a shot. I'll provide an additional update in the future.


Smart move. I never heard of the DT350 hybrid hub.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

As I understand, the 350 Hybrid was designed for Ebikes. Perhaps a good component for clydes.


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## masonmoa (Jul 11, 2011)

Clyde Ride said:


> Respectfully, this is crazy. Ride. Don't worry about it. My Onyx Vespers have been awesome, but I wouldn't think that if I have to baby them.


Ha ha. I was kidding. My friend who built them weighs 265 and wouldn't recommend them to me if he hadn't been riding them himself. I'm not worried in the slightest and they definitely ain't being babied.


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## mcbiko (May 22, 2015)

mcbiko said:


> We ended up ordering a rear wheel with a DT350 hybrid hub (heavier duty than the standard DT350) and ARC40 rims from Mikesee. He was responsive to my emails (unlike prowheelbuilder) and seems to get solid reviews on this website so we thought we'd give him a shot. I'll provide an additional update in the future.


Well, a few days before the wheel arrived, my bro-in-law had a serious wipeout to the extent that he's not allowed to ride any more! He has pretty bad circulation and wounds took until now to heal - doc said no more mountain biking. So now we have a brand new rear wheel (still in box, never mounted) as described above. So if any of you Clydes are looking for a great deal on a custom built heavy duty wheel, let me know!


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

mcbiko said:


> , my bro-in-law had a serious wipeout to the extent that he's not allowed to ride any more!


I hope he's doing well on recovery

Yeah, I think that I have heard that before "not allowed to ride any more"
I have questioned a few physicians on what they envision when they think of mountain biking. I found more than a few think of Red Bull Rampage type riding.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

I'm 240lb's... use to be 275lb's...

I've destroyed many rear hubs...

Mashed peas for bearings...

Destroyed pawls...

Cracked a freehub right down the middle once.

Now I only run DT Swiss hubs (on 4 different whips) and haven't had a failure yet 

At your friends weight I'd steer clear of the 56t ratchet...

Stay with the 18t or 36t ratchets.

Build them up on 32 spoke Spank rims.

Spank is another Clydesdale friendly brand I've found.

Best of luck to your mate.

Sent from my Asus Rog 3


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

Cleared2land said:


> I hope he's doing well on recovery
> 
> Yeah, I think that I have heard that before "not allowed to ride any more"
> I have questioned a few physicians on what they envision when they think of mountain biking. I found more than a few think of Red Bull Rampage type riding.


Don't do as I do, do as I say

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


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## Clyde Ride (Jun 7, 2019)

mcbiko said:


> Well, a few days before the wheel arrived, my bro-in-law had a serious wipeout to the extent that he's not allowed to ride any more! He has pretty bad circulation and wounds took until now to heal - doc said no more mountain biking. So now we have a brand new rear wheel (still in box, never mounted) as described above. So if any of you Clydes are looking for a great deal on a custom built heavy duty wheel, let me know!


Good luck on his recovery. But... I wonder if the risks of him being on a bike aren't better risks than not being on a bike.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

mcbiko said:


> my bro-in-law had a serious wipeout to the extent that he's not allowed to ride any more!


No statement has been made to the injuries. What was serious enough to warrant this ruling?


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## mcbiko (May 22, 2015)

Cleared2land said:


> No statement has been made to the injuries. What was serious enough to warrant this ruling?


No broken bones or torn ligaments. However, he scraped off a fair amount of skin on legs and since he has very bad circulation (6ft 8/9 contributing factor) some areas got infected and took forever to heal. This is going to be the case for any leg scrapes or wounds so it's understandable that his doc advised against mountain biking. He's still got a hybrid that he will ride on the local beltway.


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