# Light-bicycle 29er carbon wheels ????



## Rich24 (May 4, 2005)

Has anyone ridden those wheels and had experience dealing with them?
Very good price.

carbon 29er wheel mountain bike clincher - light-bicycle


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## jdubb12 (Jul 29, 2008)

Let the flaming begin!


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## BruceBrown (Jan 16, 2004)

Rich24 said:


> Has anyone ridden those wheels and had experience dealing with them?
> Very good price.
> 
> carbon 29er wheel mountain bike clincher - light-bicycle


There's pretty much an entire thread devoted to it right here on this forum.


Here is the link.

I've got the AM version and have been riding them since Friday. I'm heading out in a few minutes on a recovery ride...


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## Stryder75 (Feb 2, 2010)

Plenty of people have in this thread. Weights, build quality, ride impressions, etc.

http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/cheap-chinese-carbon-rims-673410.html


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## Ottoreni (Jan 27, 2004)

*Two different things*

I think the OP question is about the wheels , the whole package, not just the rims.
The other thread has countless comments about the rims, but none that I can recall on the quality of the whole package (rims, hubs, spokes, build ...)


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## Rich24 (May 4, 2005)

Thanks,
But what I would like to have it's information about the wheels and not only on the rim.
Thanks


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## indyfab25 (Feb 10, 2004)

Okay, just get impressions of the hubs...then the rims...and there you have it.


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## Ottoreni (Jan 27, 2004)

*Really .... ???*



indyfab25 said:


> Okay, just get impressions of the hubs...then the rims...and there you have it.


So rims and hubs are all the make up a wheel? I can get the novice wheel builder at the local new shop to build my wheels and they will be as good or better than an experienced builder. Or for that matter, a machine.


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## indyfab25 (Feb 10, 2004)

Ottoreni said:


> So rims and hubs are all the make up a wheel? I can get the novice wheel builder at the local new shop to build my wheels and they will be as good or better than an experienced builder. Or for that matter, a machine.


Ahh...well I was thinking that maybe that the hubs were in question. I'd probably have a LBS go through the wheels when I got them. I completely forgot about "build."  Good point. :thumbsup:


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## Noclutch (Jun 20, 2010)

My question about these rims is- 
What is the consensus on their tubeless setup reliability, and is this with tubeless ready or standard bead tires??? ie are they closer to UST, or BST, or lacking in ST all together?

And yea, I read that thread but it seemed that few were tippy-toeing into tubeless territory....


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## indyfab25 (Feb 10, 2004)

Noclutch said:


> My question about these rims is-
> What is the consensus on their tubeless setup reliability, and is this with tubeless ready or standard bead tires??? ie are they closer to UST, or BST, or lacking in ST all together?
> 
> And yea, I read that thread but it seemed that few were tippy-toeing into tubeless territory....


Did you read the thread? It does not appear to be the case.


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## BruceBrown (Jan 16, 2004)

Noclutch said:


> My question about these rims is-
> What is the consensus on their tubeless setup reliability, and is this with tubeless ready or standard bead tires??? ie are they closer to UST, or BST, or lacking in ST all together?
> 
> And yea, I read that thread but it seemed that few were tippy-toeing into tubeless territory....


Consensus was that with the Bontrager Rhythm tubeless strip and valves for the AM version of the rim - they were good to go tubeless. Others with yellow tape and Stans sealant were experiencing some burping out on the trail at lower psi's. I've used the Rhythm strips on Blunt rims which worked very slick.

That picture above is a pair of the AM rims and I used the Rhythm strips. Nobby Nics (tubeless ready tires, not UST, but TR) went on tight and I had to use a tire iron to mount the tires. Aired right up, and have held all that air since Friday. Two rides for a total of 4 hours on the trail with them. No problrems. I haven't had them long enough to try some tires without the Rhythm strips and just use yellow tape and sealant.


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## dhegglin (Aug 1, 2011)

*You get what you pay for*

First off, do not expect these rims to be of equal quality as the ones built by a well-known manufacturer. All rims are manufactured in China, but the quality is not held to the same standard everywhere.

Pros: They are cheap, they are light, tubeless tires seal quickly. The Novatec hubs are good although I've only ridden them about 500 miles so far.

Cons: You get what you pay for. Warranty is sub-standard. The wheels are built very light and I've had spokes rip out of the nipples. They are advertised as AM - this is questionable. They are an XC rim.

So, quickly my story.

Ordered whole wheel in early September, received them beginning of October. I rode them for a month and broke the front rim on a creek crossing (rocky and I wasn't going slow). I'm 175 lbs, riding a 2011 SC Tallboy C with 35 psi. I rode through the creek at a good clip, hitting all the obligatory rocks along the way. I heard a loud crack, followed by a violent tire blowout, followed by a nice endo (flesh wounds only). The rim broke in 2 places, simply broke off a 20" section. The breakage was at the holes drilled in the rim. I contacted Nancy and sent in the serial # along with pictures of the break. A bit of back and forth. She now agreed to send me a new rim (not a new wheel) and I have to pay for shipping ($29). When it gets here I'll have to get some new spokes and likely pay someone to lace up the hub.

I also spoke with a friend of mine in AZ who ordered the road rims. He told me the front was very nice but the rear should not have passed QC. Like I said... you get what you pay for. Do not expect the quality to be equal to those built by well-known manufacturers.


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

dhegglin;9936299
Cons: You get what you pay for. Warranty is sub-standard. The wheels are built very light and I've had spokes rip out of the nipples. They are advertised as AM - this is questionable. They are an XC rim.
So said:


> *Thanks for the post! I need the reminder to stay away from temptation. I think it comes down to a time and hassle gamble. You'll probably never beat the price, unless, of course, the crash results in body or bike damage. However down time and shipping/rebuilding cost must be factored in.*


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## goodmojo (Sep 12, 2011)

dhegglin said:


> First off, do not expect these rims to be of equal quality as the ones built by a well-known manufacturer. All rims are manufactured in China, but the quality is not held to the same standard everywhere.
> 
> Pros: They are cheap, they are light, tubeless tires seal quickly. The Novatec hubs are good although I've only ridden them about 500 miles so far.
> 
> ...


pictures or it didnt happen


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## dhegglin (Aug 1, 2011)

trying to post pictures...

"
To be able to post links or images your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 1 posts.

Please remove links from your message, then you will be able to submit your post.
"


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## dhegglin (Aug 1, 2011)

guess I have to figure out how to post 8 more times :madman:


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## dhegglin (Aug 1, 2011)

Oh, latest update. Light-bicycle is sending me a new rim and I have a tracking #! No, this is not a replacement wheel like I purchased originally, they are just sending me a new rim.


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## dhegglin (Aug 1, 2011)

And, in order for me to receive my warranty rim, I needed to purchase shipping for the replacement rim ($29) and also shipping for the box the rim comes in ($14) separately for a total of $43.


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## dhegglin (Aug 1, 2011)

But on the upside, I am getting a new rim so I guess I can't complain. It took a bit of time and a lot of pictures for them to agree that it was a defect.


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## dhegglin (Aug 1, 2011)

The reason I'm posting this is not to bash light-bicycle.com BTW. It's because as a consumer you need to know what you are getting.


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## dhegglin (Aug 1, 2011)

ok, maybe it's a bit to bash light-bicycle. If this was a US manufacturer they would make sure the customer is satisfied instead of doing the absolute minimum to conform to the letter of the warranty rather than the spirit of the warranty.


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## dhegglin (Aug 1, 2011)

And of course, this doesn't take into consideration that I had to pay for shipping again, the cost of lacing up the new rim, and the tire that got punctured by the carbon rim.


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## dhegglin (Aug 1, 2011)

It also doesn't take into consideration the flesh wounds that I incurred due to the failure. I was riding at night and was alone. After I put myself together I had no reception and had to walk out to get a signal. If I was seriously hurt, that would have been a problem. A butterfly took care of this one but lemme tell you, it didn't feel good endo'ing into a bunch of sharp rocks and it could have been a lot worse.


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## dhegglin (Aug 1, 2011)

ah, and that makes 10 posts, so here's for you picture whores...

IMG_20121114_182033 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

IMG_20121114_181714 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

> I have to pay for shipping ($29). When it gets here I'll have to get some new spokes and likely pay someone to lace up the hub.


I can't imagine this would be different no matter who you got the rim from.


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## dhegglin (Aug 1, 2011)

You forget that I bought the whole wheel. There is additional cost to me if all I get is a new rim so I'm essentially paying additional money for a product I already paid for. If all I bought originally was the rim, I agree with you.


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## DWill (Aug 24, 2010)

^^^^^^ this is why I saved for several months and got Enve's


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

DWill said:


> ^^^^^^ this is why I saved for several months and got Enve's


+1

ENVE is manufactured in USA, btw.
ENVE has a 5yr warranty
ENVE has a lifetime crash replacement guarantee (50% of new price)


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## Lenny7 (Sep 1, 2008)

DWill said:


> ^^^^^^ this is why I saved for several months and got Enve's


This reminds me of a bit a comedian did about refrigerator sales men. "This one will keep your food cold for $600... This one will keep your food cold for $800... This one will keep your food cold for $1000..."

This wheelset will allow your bike to roll for $500... This wheelset will allow your bike to roll for $2000. To each their own.


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

Lenny7 said:


> This wheelset will allow your bike to roll for $500... This wheelset will allow your bike to roll for $2000. To each their own.


This is correct. :yesnod:....except in the case of dhegglin :nono:


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## Lenny7 (Sep 1, 2008)

Simplemind said:


> This is correct. :yesnod:....except in the case of dhegglin :nono:


Google ANY brand that's been around long enough and you'll find a failure or two. Even, yes it's true, ENVE.  If you want to pay an extra $1500 for a smoother customer service experience I'm not gonna fault you. Just not my path. I bought the Nancy rims and have been great after 600+ miles.


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## bt (Nov 24, 2007)

DWill said:


> ^^^^^^ this is why I saved for several months and got Enve's


I bet you left the stickers on too.


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## william.lin (Dec 28, 2012)

wow.
You ride the road bike through the creek. The big power can easy make the rims break.
Carbon rims can not be compared with alloy rims. Take care next time.


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## D_Man (Jan 7, 2004)

william.lin said:


> wow.
> You ride the road bike through the creek. The big power can easy make the rims break.
> Carbon rims can not be compared with alloy rims. Take care next time.


Um ... I think it is called a mountain bike for a reason. Rims should not self destruct from an aggressive creek crossing.


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## william.lin (Dec 28, 2012)

lol. i see.


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## robgall13 (Nov 30, 2012)

Hmm so it seems the LB rims are pretty good.

However I'm interested in the AM Wheelset. The rims are good. Nipples are nipples. The spokes (Pillar Aero X-TRA 1420) I'm not sure about but they seem to be ok? The Novatec hubs obviously aren't the best however they seem to get pretty good reviews and they appear to be excellent value for money.

Other than the components does anyone know how well the wheels are built up by the people at LB? Are they true and the spokes correctly tensioned etc.?

I'd appreciate it if anyone could provide information. (Please don't direct me to the huge thread, I'm on about the complete wheelset and not just the rim) Thanks!

£430 (with shipping) Roughly for a 29er carbon wheelset is hard to resist for my first build...


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## Atomik Carbon (Jan 4, 2004)

dhegglin said:


> ok, maybe it's a bit to bash light-bicycle. If this was a US manufacturer they would make sure the customer is satisfied instead of doing the absolute minimum to conform to the letter of the warranty rather than the spirit of the warranty.


You obviously have not tried to warranty anything from crook brothers or raceface or a bunch of other us based manufacturers.


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## Atomik Carbon (Jan 4, 2004)

dhegglin said:


> It also doesn't take into consideration the flesh wounds that I incurred due to the failure. I was riding at night and was alone. After I put myself together I had no reception and had to walk out to get a signal. If I was seriously hurt, that would have been a problem. A butterfly took care of this one but lemme tell you, it didn't feel good endo'ing into a bunch of sharp rocks and it could have been a lot worse.


You take the cake on this one buddy, name ANY manufacturer that would compensate you for this. Have you ever even read the disclaimer from any major bike manufacturers? Get real.....


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

one of my rims developed cracks at the spoke holes before i even mounted a tire on it. $40 shipping for a new one.



william.lin said:


> wow.
> You ride the road bike through the creek. The big power can easy make the rims break.
> Carbon rims can not be compared with alloy rims. Take care next time.


as a manufacturer rep you might want to read the post a little more carefully.


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## spsoon (Jul 28, 2008)

On the contrary, I appreciate knowing where I should definitely not do business


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Lenny7 said:


> This reminds me of a bit a comedian did about refrigerator sales men. "This one will keep your food cold for $600... This one will keep your food cold for $800... This one will keep your food cold for $1000..."
> 
> This wheelset will allow your bike to roll for $500... This wheelset will allow your bike to roll for $2000. To each their own.


You forgot when the 600 dollar one break you're SOL when the $800 one breaks we'll send you the broken part if you pay shipping and if the $2000.00 one breaks, we'll take care of you no problem.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Captain_America1976 said:


> I can't imagine this would be different no matter who you got the rim from.





dhegglin said:


> You forget that I bought the whole wheel. There is additional cost to me if all I get is a new rim so I'm essentially paying additional money for a product I already paid for. If all I bought originally was the rim, I agree with you.


When the bearing in my Shimano wheel on my Felt failed, Shimano sent me an entire new wheel, not a hub excepting me to pay to relaced it.


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## lokisare (Mar 16, 2011)

Simplemind said:


> ENVE has a lifetime crash replacement guarantee (50% of new price)


I don't get why people this is a good deal - 50% of retail new price is still a lot of $$$$

Lets just say I buy ENVEs at $2500 versus LB wheels at $600
I crash and smash a rim 
so now I can pay 50% of new for a new ENVE - what does one ENVE wheel cost like $1500 so maybe I get it at $750
or if I got the LB wheels with no warranty I can buy a new rim for $165 plus shipping and wheel build - or just a whole new wheel at around $300.

So if I bought ENVEs with their fantastic crash offer - I've spent well over $3500 
But if bought the LB wheels with no warranty I've spent around $900

I fail to see why this should make me buy ENVEs

(I know ENVEs are nice wheels, but the argument for a warranty is flawed if you are paying more than double the cheaper option in the first place. I bought a chinese carbon frame, if I broke it I could have bough about 5 or 6 more for the same price as ONE name brand frame with a warranty ... I fail to see how I would be better off with the name brand frame)


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

lokisare said:


> I don't get why people this is a good deal - 50% of retail new price is still a lot of $$$$
> 
> Lets just say I buy ENVEs at $2500 versus LB wheels at $600
> I crash and smash a rim
> ...


Problem with you're logic is you're assuming they are both of the same quality and thus just as likely that both will fail.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

lokisare said:


> Icrash and smash a rim
> so now I can pay 50% of new for the ENVE - well over $1000


I know you're trying to make a point, but how do you figure 50% crash replacement on a $900 rim is well over $1000?
ut:


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## J Hartman (Nov 8, 2012)

Simplemind said:


> +1
> 
> ENVE is manufactured in USA, btw.
> ENVE has a 5yr warranty
> ENVE has a lifetime crash replacement guarantee (50% of new price)


LOL @ crash replacement.

(i'm going to round the Prices off)
that is because no one sells anything where they make less than 100% profit... Assuming carbon fiber (raw cloth material ) sells for approx the same price anywhere in the world. the "Chinese" wheels at $600 with hub and spokes, probably cost $150 each to build. $150 x 2 = $300... Sell for $600, make 100% profit.

Now go to enve who is using the same carbon fiber as this chinese company. except they sell their rims for $3000? Help me out here, a
2000% mark up??? I'm sure they would be glad to sell you rims for 50% off retail @ only 1000% markup. I'm no bashing this company, or it's products, but the prices I've seen on enve stuff puts me in sticker shock...

also, on this subject of cheap chinese wheels and cheap chinese this and that.... don't more people in china ride bikes than anywhere else in the world? I'm sure china has some idea of how to make bike parts.


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## lokisare (Mar 16, 2011)

meltingfeather said:


> I know you're trying to make a point, but how do you figure 50% crash replacement on a $900 rim is well over $1000?
> ut:


I'm not sure exactly how the ENVE system works - do you buy a new rim or a new wheel? The wheel set here retails at over $3k so I've not really looked into it. I assumed you bought a wheel... and it no longer reads $1000.

The exact numbers don't really matter my point was that the ENVE 50% replacement thing isn't a reason in itself to buy ENVEs over the chinese ones. Seeing as you come out better off financially with the Chinese ones even if you break both and have to buy another set!

I understand the ENVEs are a different product and I'm not saying the chinese ones are as good an ENVEs. Just saying that the replacement deal for crashes alone wouldn't be a reason to buy the ENVEs over the chinese ones.

Back to the frame example, I bought a chinese HT frame for $300... I could have bought a name brand for $1500 with warranty. The warranty itself is not worth the extra $1200 as I can buy 4 new frames for that... unless you believe you will break 4 chinese frames. But I'm not saying that the chinese frame is an equal product in terms of the ride etc. I am purely commenting on the warranty / crash replacement stuff.

If you want ENVEs because they are a fantastic wheel and you can afford them then sure why not. But I would not put the crash replacement policy up as a reason to buy.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

J Hartman said:


> LOL @ crash replacement.
> 
> (i'm going to round the Prices off)
> that is because no one sells anything where they make less than 100% profit... Assuming carbon fiber (raw cloth material ) sells for approx the same price anywhere in the world. the "Chinese" wheels at $600 with hub and spokes, probably cost $150 each to build. $150 x 2 = $300... Sell for $600, make 100% profit.
> ...


Please show me where in the US labor is $10 a day.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

lol @ 100% profit. 

I don't think anyone is trying to justify the cost of ENVE rims based on the crash replacement policy... but these examples are pretty funny.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

meltingfeather said:


> lol @ 100% profit.
> 
> I don't think anyone is trying to justify the cost of ENVE rims based on the crash replacement policy... but these examples are pretty funny.


Isn't it fun to read comments from someone that has no idea what the hell their talking about. Now if we were talking Apple, he'd be on the mark.


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## Atomik Carbon (Jan 4, 2004)

TwoTone said:


> Isn't it fun to read comments from someone that has no idea what the hell their talking about. Now if we were talking Apple, he'd be on the mark.


+1......100%?????. Ha,ha. Obviously works for someone and does not know what happens in the real world......


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## broadwayline (Jan 19, 2008)

YaMon said:


> +1......100%?????. Ha,ha. Obviously works for someone and does not know what happens in the real world......


+1 I laughed reading that summary of how pricing works.


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

I have a pair of these rims on order? I want to buy the spokes ahead of time. Are people finding their claim of 603 ERD to be accurate?


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

bpd131 said:


> I have a pair of these rims on order? I want to buy the spokes ahead of time. Are people finding their claim of 603 ERD to be accurate?


I bought a pair?
The ERD was 603?


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## eclipse24 (Jan 14, 2012)

bpd131 said:


> I have a pair of these rims on order? I want to buy the spokes ahead of time. Are people finding their claim of 603 ERD to be accurate?


Measured mine (AM wide with 12mm spokes) and they came in at 604.


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

Thank you for the help


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

meltingfeather said:


> I bought a pair?
> QUOTE]
> 
> MF, how are these holding up? Ride CP or BCGB?
> ...


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

Simplemind said:


> MF, how are these holding up?


Still holding up fine. Straight & true... no issues.


Simplemind said:


> Ride CP or BCGB?


Yep


Simplemind said:


> I'm considering rebuilding with these if the quality is improving, however I would be re-using my I-9's with the I-9 direct pull spokes, assuming the length is correct.
> 
> I have heard that the diameter of the I-9 spoke (Aluminum spokes) nipple is larger than standard and some rims wont accept the larger diameter. Any comments?


The holes were pretty snug on my standard DT nipples. Not sure of the diameter on the I9 spokes. I've thought about trying to ream the holes to a directional orientation since the are radial, but haven't gotten around to it. If I ever trash a rim that's the first thing I'm going to try when I pull it off.


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## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

Wow.... just found this thread. I have a set of these arriving any day now, was waiting till they got here to measure my own ERD, is the published ERD spot on then ?

Will be good to draw the comparison with my ENVE wheels (now the corroding nipple issue is sorted).


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## indyfab25 (Feb 10, 2004)

Simplemind said:


> meltingfeather said:
> 
> 
> > I bought a pair?
> ...


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## GaryHill (Jan 22, 2005)

ozzybmx said:


> Wow.... just found this thread. I have a set of these arriving any day now, was waiting till they got here to measure my own ERD, is the published ERD spot on then ?


Did you get a figure for ERD vs the quoted values on the LB site? I've just ordered some rims and also keen to get a firm value for ERD so I can get some spokes ordered too

Gary


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

ozzybmx said:


> Wow.... just found this thread. I have a set of these arriving any day now, was waiting till they got here to measure my own ERD, is the published ERD spot on then ?


Mine were.



ozzybmx said:


> Will be good to draw the comparison with my ENVE wheels (now the corroding nipple issue is sorted).


agreed. :thumbsup:


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## brigcampbell (Mar 5, 2013)

Anyone put the stock LB wheelset on a specialized, have a '13 stumpy? Do the stock hubs fit?


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## muzzanic (Apr 28, 2009)

The thing is also that the second set of anything is cheap to make, But often it is about what it cost to make the 1st set

I heard a drug company say once, yes it's true the second tablet cost 1 cent but the 1st 1 cost 1 hundred million.

So it all comes down to what you can afford or what you can justify to yourself.

I have friends that run the LB rims & have had no problems with them & I have owned a set as well, But I like the way that Enve & Reynolds have made there rims with the deeper rim ( I'm sure LB will copy ) & I'm sure that Enve & Reynolds have spent a lot more money on testing to get the Rims to be stronger.

As for me, I have the I9 Torch trail carbon wheels & have 1 set of LB rims on order.

When LB makes a deeper section Rim that is wide, I will sell all my alloy rimed wheels & go carbon across the board.



J Hartman said:


> LOL @ crash replacement.
> 
> (i'm going to round the Prices off)
> that is because no one sells anything where they make less than 100% profit... Assuming carbon fiber (raw cloth material ) sells for approx the same price anywhere in the world. the "Chinese" wheels at $600 with hub and spokes, probably cost $150 each to build. $150 x 2 = $300... Sell for $600, make 100% profit.
> ...


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

So I got my 28 hole Wider Stronger 29er Light-Bicycle Rims last week (410 and 414 grams) and they look great. Excellent visual quality. I built them over the weekend using 28 hole CK hubs, DT Swiss Alumium Nipples, Sapim CX-Ray spokes Front DS and NDS at 296mm and the Rear DS 296mm and the NDS 298mm. They built up nice, but because I am inexperienced and have limited knowledge of tension requirements, so I am seeking info for what final tension should I set the spokes at? 

Here is what I have right now:
I used the Park T1 Tension Meter and right now the front has very little variance (comparing spokes to their relative side), probably less than 5%, but the tension is about 95 Kgf DS (Park tool #12) and 105 Kgf for NDS (Park tool #13). The rear has a little more variance comparing relative sides, but probably not more than 10%, The rear DS tension is about 130 Kgf (Park tool #15) and the rear NDS is about 90 Kgf (Park tool #11). I know the rims allow for spoke tension of 180 Kgf, but what is necessary and reasonable. I am a 170 lbs rider if that matters. I spent a lot of time de-tensioning and I am very confident that this tension will not change much after riding, (except the nipples bedding in a little), but I would like to know if I should raise the tension to start with? I don't mind spending the time to do it, but I do not want to damage anything.

I should also mention instantly tubeless with 1 layer of Stan's tape and Specialized 2Bliss tires, with a nice "pop" on to the bead.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

bpd131 said:


> I would like to know if I should raise the tension to start with? I don't mind spending the time to do it, but I do not want to damage anything.


No. I believe Chris King specifies a max tension of 120 kgf.
There is no reason to go any higher.
I doubt very seriously that the rims could handle 180, and even suggesting that is somewhat ridiculous on their part.
It sounds like your front wheel is not dished correctly; the rim needs to move toward the NDS. The left and right tension should not be that close.


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

meltingfeather said:


> No. I believe Chris King specifies a max tension of 120 kgf.
> There is no reason to go any higher.
> I doubt very seriously that the rims could handle 180, and even suggesting that is somewhat ridiculous on their part.
> It sounds like your front wheel is not dished correctly; the rim needs to move toward the NDS. The left and right tension should not be that close.


Thanks for the info, actually the front wheel is dished perfectly. I did that wheel first and memory might be off a little there very well could be a bigger difference between sides (for instance low side of 11 to the high side of 12 on the park tool. The front came out near perfect with minimal work, which was good to see when you don't have that much experience. I did however have more difficulty with the rear. Do you think I should lower the tension on the rear? I was worried that the 90Kgf was too low already, but I do not want to damage the hub either.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

bpd131 said:


> Thanks for the info, actually the front wheel is dished perfectly. I did that wheel first and memory might be off a little there very well could be a bigger difference between sides (for instance low side of 11 to the high side of 12 on the park tool.


Sounds like the spoke readings are incorrect. It is physically impossible to dish a disc front wheel correctly with tension that close.
If you have an LD shell the DS will be 71% of the NDS when the wheel is properly dished.


bpd131 said:


> Do you think I should lower the tension on the rear? I was worried that the 90Kgf was too low already, but I do not want to damage the hub either.


I would. The NDS is what it is. You set tension by the DS. If you are using one of the most common King rears your NDS tension will be ~60% of the DS when properly dished. There is something weird about your numbers.


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

meltingfeather said:


> Sounds like the spoke readings are incorrect. It is physically impossible to dish a disc front wheel correctly with tension that close.
> If you have an LD shell the DS will be 71% of the NDS when the wheel is properly dished.
> 
> I would. The NDS is what it is. You set tension by the DS. If you are using one of the most common King rears your NDS tension will be ~60% of the DS when properly dished. There is something weird about your numbers.


I will recheck my numbers for the front and it is the LD shell. I will also lower the tension on the rear and bring the drive side to 120kgf. This is exactly what I wanted to know. I feel more comfortable with the rear now.

Thanks for the help. I will re-post my front and rear number after I adjust the spokes.


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

Thanks for the help Meltingfeather. These tension meter readings are now with the tire mounted. Front NDS is 110-120 kgf and the DS is 80-85 kgf. The rear DS is also between 110-120 kgf and the NDS is 65-75 kgf. I think that is falling right where your percentages indicated. Truthfully, I would like less range on the rear NDS, but it does go noticeably out of true (1 mm) if the kgf is closer. I will ride for now and recheck after a couple hours and see how well I really did in building them!

Thanks again!


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

*final build weight*

bpd131, may i ask what the final build weight turned out to be? without tires and stans tape if you took it by chance?

thanks!


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## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

Has anyone received a set of these rims with very sharp edges on the beads ?

By sharp i mean a square profile rather than a rounded edge.


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## peterk123 (Oct 10, 2005)

Hi guys, I need some help. I purchased the prebuilt wheels from LB. So far the rims are bomb proof. My problem has been with the nipples in the rear. I have snapped three of them so far. I ride a hardtail. 

Is it an issue of them being aluminum or could it possibly be too much tension? Pete


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

darkhorse13 said:


> bpd131, may i ask what the final build weight turned out to be? without tires and stans tape if you took it by chance?
> 
> thanks!


If my memory is correct they were about 1650-1700 grams. I bought the heavier rim and they were 402 and 403 gms.


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## AZmtncycler (Jan 23, 2004)

I bought a set of Light Bikes wheels for my weekday training bike (Al JET Niner). I went with the glossy 3k weave. The aero Pillar spokes are my first foray into aero spokes.. Nice light wheelset. I did have to adjust the dish on the rear wheel but the front was spot on. Love the Novatec hubs ability to accommodate any axle. I'm running the 10mm bolt thru (using Hadley 10mm Al axle) on the rear and the 9mm thru axle up front (again, using Hadley 9mm Al axle). I probably have @150 miles of use and no problems. BTW, I'm running tubeless with standard 2.4" Racing Ralfs using good ol' packing tape (the kind with fibers). It's quite a bit lighter than gorilla tape.


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## sjaakoo (Jun 17, 2008)

AZmtncycler said:


> I bought a set of Light Bikes wheels for my weekday training bike (Al JET Niner). I went with the glossy 3k weave. The aero Pillar spokes are my first foray into aero spokes.. Nice light wheelset. I did have to adjust the dish on the rear wheel but the front was spot on. Love the Novatec hubs ability to accommodate any axle. I'm running the 10mm bolt thru (using Hadley 10mm Al axle) on the rear and the 9mm thru axle up front (again, using Hadley 9mm Al axle). I probably have @150 miles of use and no problems. BTW, I'm running tubeless with standard 2.4" Racing Ralfs using good ol' packing tape (the kind with fibers). It's quite a bit lighter than gorilla tape.


Did you get the 'wider' rim? Or the regular one with an inner with of 21 mm?
21 mm is also quite wide the same width as a ZTR Crest, please correct me if I am wrong.
I would like to order a set of LB wheels and am planning to use 2.4" Racing Ralfs tubeless....

Concerning the 'Novatec hubs ability to accommodate any axle': 
If I order a wheelset with the standard Novatec(D711/D712SB) hubs can I get some sort of a conversion kit to convert the front one to 15mm and the back one to 142X12?


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## lokisare (Mar 16, 2011)

Mine are almost done, the rear is finished the front laced but not tensioned yet. Build was wide rims, hope pro 2 evos (12x142 rear, 15mm front) with DT revolutions and alloy nipples. Total weight comes to 1580 without tape or valves. 

Will post pics when I get them from my wheel builder


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## AZmtncycler (Jan 23, 2004)

sjaakoo said:


> Did you get the 'wider' rim? Or the regular one with an inner with of 21 mm?
> 21 mm is also quite wide the same width as a ZTR Crest, please correct me if I am wrong.
> I would like to order a set of LB wheels and am planning to use 2.4" Racing Ralfs tubeless....
> 
> ...


SJaakoo,
Yes, I got the wider rim with the 30mm outside dimension. I'm running RR 2.4 tubeless with no issues. I'm not sure about Novatec D711/D712 ability to convert to any axle. I DO know that the D881/D882 can accomodate any axle type.


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## sjaakoo (Jun 17, 2008)

AZmtncycler said:


> SJaakoo,
> Yes, I got the wider rim with the 30mm outside dimension. I'm running RR 2.4 tubeless with no issues. I'm not sure about Novatec D711/D712 ability to convert to any axle. I DO know that the D881/D882 can accomodate any axle type.


I am still on a 26er and I am going to build a 29er.
I still have to decide which frame and fork to use.
Aren't QR front and rear hubs still the lightest and cheapest option?
Or is the newer stuff,15mm front and 142x12 so much better?


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## truongasaurus (May 10, 2013)

bump. 

I, too, would like to know how much benefit I'd notice on a 142x12. It'd be on a carbon hardtail


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## muzzanic (Apr 28, 2009)

truongasaurus said:


> bump.
> 
> I, too, would like to know how much benefit I'd notice on a 142x12. It'd be on a carbon hardtail


If your carbon frame isn't a 142 x12 frame, You wouldn't be able to fit it.


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## truongasaurus (May 10, 2013)

muzzanic said:


> If your carbon frame isn't a 142 x12 frame, You wouldn't be able to fit it.


I don't have the frame yet. I'm looking to buy one but just don't know whether to get it with 142x12 or not.


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## muzzanic (Apr 28, 2009)

truongasaurus said:


> I don't have the frame yet. I'm looking to buy one but just don't know whether to get it with 142x12 or not.


The 142 x12 will add a little bit of stiffness to a carbon hard tail, But the biggest thing is it's a nice setup & aligns the wheel up very well.

Through axle rear ends is the way forward, So if you have the option, go for 142 x 12


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## mmanuel09 (Nov 26, 2008)

Just finished with this build and couldn't be any happier. This bike is plain out Fast... The LB wheels were easy to set up and only have 1 ride on them. So far so good. I have to dial in the tire pressure but already can see the positives of this wheel set.

LB Carbon 2 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
LB Carbon 1 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Niner Jet 9 4 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Niner Jet 9 3 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!


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## truongasaurus (May 10, 2013)

mmanuel09 said:


> Just finished with this build and couldn't be any happier. This bike is plain out Fast... The LB wheels were easy to set up and only have 1 ride on them. So far so good. I have to dial in the tire pressure but already can see the positives of this wheel set.
> 
> LB Carbon 2 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
> LB Carbon 1 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
> ...


Nice! Are those DT Swiss 240s? If so, what made you go with those hubs vs other ones? I don't know what hub to go with when I build mine up for a carbon hardtail.


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## mmanuel09 (Nov 26, 2008)

I had a 26inch wheelset built up with those hubs. I sold my 26inch pivot mach 5 and built up the jet 9. I decided to use those hubs cause I really like them. Those 240 hubs have been solid. I'm glad I made my choice. Shoot now I'm thinking of building up back up pair and have been hearing good things about the Novatech hubs.


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## pagey (Sep 26, 2006)

mmanuel09 said:


> I had a 26inch wheelset built up with those hubs. I sold my 26inch pivot mach 5 and built up the jet 9. I decided to use those hubs cause I really like them. Those 240 hubs have been solid. I'm glad I made my choice. Shoot now I'm thinking of building up back up pair and have been hearing good things about the Novatech hubs.


I built my LB 29er rims on the Novatech hubs and they ave been flawless. Although I now ave an issue wanting to go t 1x11 and they don't have a 11 speed replacement hub


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

I'm seriously considering these thing, I'm currently running stan's flow (non-ex) and hope hubs. Anyone coming off a set like this that can compare stiffness/strength?

Also need to decide whether to re-lace them to my hope hubs or just get a set with the novatecs. Not sure I trust the bladed spokes from a brand I've never heard of. They offer DT revos as an option but I don't know how they compare to good ol' comps. 

Anyone have any more feedback to convince me? They'd be going on on a Canfield yelli screamy that gets ridden fairly hard by a 190lb rider. Just as long as they match up with the old flows I think I'd be ok.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

rusty904 said:


> I'm seriously considering these thing, I'm currently running stan's flow (non-ex) and hope hubs. Anyone coming off a set like this that can compare stiffness/strength?
> 
> Also need to decide whether to re-lace them to my hope hubs or just get a set with the novatecs. Not sure I trust the bladed spokes from a brand I've never heard of. They offer DT revos as an option but I don't know how they compare to good ol' comps.
> 
> Anyone have any more feedback to convince me? They'd be going on on a Canfield yelli screamy that gets ridden fairly hard by a 190lb rider. Just as long as they match up with the old flows I think I'd be ok.


IMO keep the Hope hubs for their versatility


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

mmanuel09 said:


> Just finished with this build and couldn't be any happier. This bike is plain out Fast... The LB wheels were easy to set up and only have 1 ride on them. So far so good. I have to dial in the tire pressure but already can see the positives of this wheel set.
> 
> LB Carbon 2 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
> LB Carbon 1 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
> ...


Hey that bike looks familiar:thumbsup:


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Yeah I'm leaning in that direction. Now I don't really know how long to wait as they keep saying on the site that they are coming out with wider/stronger versions of their hookless design.


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

so for the ones that have the light bicycle full wheelset, how are the novatec hubs holding up?


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## AZmtncycler (Jan 23, 2004)

Triaxtremec said:


> so for the ones that have the light bicycle full wheelset, how are the novatec hubs holding up?


I've got about 500 miles on mine and the hubs have been flawless. They roll forever...


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## Man from Utopia (Jun 16, 2005)

I have somewhere between 500-1000 miles on my LB built wheels w/Novatec hubs. The front is the D881SB and rolls as smooth as ever with zero maintenance, the rim is as true as day one even though it looks like hell. The rear is a D712 hub and the bearings are feeling a little gritty so I am replacing them now with Enduro ceramic hybrids. The freewheel on the D712 is soft aluminum and my cassette is notched and embedded into it. I am also now replacing the freewheel with one from BDop cycles in Taiwan. They seem to be the only one's who carry Novatec parts. The new freewheel has a steel spline to help prevent the cassette from digging into the freewheel.


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

I am still up in the air what direction I want to go. I need to do two wheelsets, 29er and a 650b wheelset. Currently running Roval Control EL 29 and a set of American Classics 650b wheelsets and want to either replace the rims with carbon and rebuild the wheels with my existing hubs or buy all new from LB. But I'm not sure if its better or cheaper to just buy all new wheelset from LB.


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## tasty.dirt74 (Nov 13, 2009)

I have the Light bicycle wider 29er wheelset with a 15mm front and QR rear. Asked for butted spokes instead of the aero ones the wheelset was advertised with and a 15mm front instead of the QR front. All in matt black. They weighed 1650gr and are 23mm Internal width. I used Gorilla Tape(brand name) and they sealed up nicely. The tyres are RR 2.2 F & R. I weigh in at 100kg kitted up(220lb i think is the conversion) and find the wheels incredibly stiff laterally. The build quality was fine. A few pings as the spokes were loaded up initially. They were retensioned after about 100km as the spokes had lost a little tension, but were still true.They went on a hardtail.


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## CarlS (Feb 25, 2008)

Question for you guys with complete wheelsets and Novatec hubs: did your rear come with that ABG feature with a steel spline on the cassette drive body? I sent carolin an email, but not sure if they understand what I'm talking about 

I'm seriously thinking of trying a set built with the new hooklesss 29er rim and Novatec hubs

edit> I should be asking: does anyone know if the D882 hub has that ABG?


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## pagey (Sep 26, 2006)

tasty.dirt74 said:


> I have the Light bicycle wider 29er wheelset with a 15mm front and QR rear. Asked for butted spokes instead of the aero ones the wheelset was advertised with and a 15mm front instead of the QR front. All in matt black. They weighed 1650gr and are 23mm Internal width. I used Gorilla Tape(brand name) and they sealed up nicely. The tyres are RR 2.2 F & R. I weigh in at 100kg kitted up(220lb i think is the conversion) and find the wheels incredibly stiff laterally. The build quality was fine. A few pings as the spokes were loaded up initially. They were retensioned after about 100km as the spokes had lost a little tension, but were still true.They went on a hardtail.


This is my exact setup on my 29er duelly. No issues for 12 months now


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## David C (May 25, 2011)

CarlS said:


> Question for you guys with complete wheelsets and Novatec hubs: did your rear come with that ABG feature with a steel spline on the cassette drive body? I sent carolin an email, but not sure if they understand what I'm talking about
> 
> I'm seriously thinking of trying a set built with the new hooklesss 29er rim and Novatec hubs
> 
> edit> I should be asking: does anyone know if the D882 hub has that ABG?


My D882 black hub in 10x135mm tru-QR configuration came with the basic steel cassette body. I didn't asked about the other drivers, as I figured they would probably not have any since they have to get minimal quantity orders, and that if I ever wore out this one, I'll buy the better one myself.

And the tru-QR axles are so nice, it's really worth it over standard QR skewers if you can't have a tru-axle setup.


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## singletrackkid (Jan 15, 2007)

There are two offerings for LBs hookless 27/22 rim - the XC and AM version. I'm curious what the majority of customers are buying? Is it worth the added insurance of the additional carbon on the AM version?


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

singletrackkid said:


> There are two offerings for LBs hookless 27/22 rim - the XC and AM version. I'm curious what the majority of customers are buying? Is it worth the added insurance of the additional carbon on the AM version?


I ordered the 35mm rim


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

singletrackkid said:


> There are two offerings for LBs hookless 27/22 rim - the XC and AM version. I'm curious what the majority of customers are buying? Is it worth the added insurance of the additional carbon on the AM version?


I went with the xc hookless. For xc racing I want light weight and theres no need for 35mm width


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Kawigreen99 said:


> I went with the xc hookless. For xc racing I want light weight and theres no need for 35mm width


Except for what it does for the tire at a very minor weight penalty.


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

Isn't there a point where it will flatten out the tire too much and ending up losing cornering grip?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Kawigreen99 said:


> Isn't there a point where it will flatten out the tire too much and ending up losing cornering grip?


Not to be a jerk, but do a search on here, pleanty of info that I'm not going to rehash.

But basically after having FlowEx on my new wheels, I won't go back to a narrow rim.


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## singletrackkid (Jan 15, 2007)

Kawigreen99 said:


> I went with the xc hookless. For xc racing I want light weight and theres no need for 35mm width


I'm not referring to the 35mm rim - sorry, I wasn't clear. LB offers the 27mm rim in both an XC and AM version.


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

singletrackkid said:


> I'm not referring to the 35mm rim - sorry, I wasn't clear. LB offers the 27mm rim in both an XC and AM version.


I have one a first few sets of the AM Hookless from LB. Since I bought mine they have changed the specs, the weight of my rims is actually the same as the XC now listed. They have made them heavier (more Carbon) since they first came out. I will say that building these compared to my other AM LB regular design rims, there was a big stiffness difference when stress relieving the rim. I feel the Hookless ones I have now are equal to the XC they have listed now. I think for the 20 +/- grams difference in the rims, it's worth getting the AM version for strength and stiffness. But that's for where I ride with the rocks and roots of CT or New England. The lighter ones might be great for XC non-aggressive terrain.


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## singletrackkid (Jan 15, 2007)

Thank you! That's what it boils down to for me - a little added insurance for a small addition of weight.


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

TwoTone said:


> Not to be a jerk, but do a search on here, pleanty of info that I'm not going to rehash.
> 
> But basically after having FlowEx on my new wheels, I won't go back to a narrow rim.


A Flow Ex is not 35mm wide though


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

Had a few beers last night - loosens up the wallet - and ordered a 30mm AM wheelset.
(matte, UD, Hope PRO 2 EVO 20mm/12x142mm, DT revolution)

I was thinking $47 and $169 was cheap for the Hope hub set but then realized I'll need to buy the adapters/axle (20mm / 142 x 12) 
Has anyone bought the Hope hubs from Light-Bicycle? 
Do they just come w/ QR end caps?

thanks.


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

client_9 said:


> Had a few beers last night - loosens up the wallet - and ordered a 30mm AM wheelset.
> (matte, UD, Hope PRO 2 EVO 20mm/12x142mm, DT revolution)
> 
> I was thinking $47 and $169 was cheap for the Hope hub set but then realized I'll need to buy the adapters/axle (20mm / 142 x 12)
> ...


Where did you find the hubs at that price?


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## Dr Wankel (Oct 2, 2007)

Kawigreen99 said:


> Where did you find the hubs at that price?


Those are the prices that LB adds on to the cost of the complete wheelset if you substitute Hope hubs in place of the Novatecs that come with their standard build.


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

I've read that the Bontrager rim strips are superior to Stan's yellow tape to make these 30mm rims tubeless. 
There are two versions of the Bontrager strips:
#433383 XXX 29er Tubeless Rim Strip 29" 622 x 21 
#400337 RXL 29er Tubeless Rim Strip 29" 622 x 19
Are people using the 21mm wide Bonty strips for the 30mm LB rims?
thanks.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

client_9 said:


> I've read that the Bontrager rim strips are superior to Stan's yellow tape to make these 30mm rims tubeless.
> There are two versions of the Bontrager strips:
> #433383 XXX 29er Tubeless Rim Strip 29" 622 x 21
> #400337 RXL 29er Tubeless Rim Strip 29" 622 x 19
> ...


Neither... there are three versions and the 406892 Rhythm Symmetric is the one you want.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Kawigreen99 said:


> A Flow Ex is not 35mm wide though


And the answer is still the same, plenty of long threads discussing the fallacy of wide rims squaring off the tire significantly.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

client_9 said:


> Had a few beers last night - loosens up the wallet - and ordered a 30mm AM wheelset.
> (matte, UD, Hope PRO 2 EVO 20mm/12x142mm, DT revolution)
> 
> I was thinking $47 and $169 was cheap for the Hope hub set but then realized I'll need to buy the adapters/axle (20mm / 142 x 12)
> ...


I ordered a set for my buddy 135 x 10 vs QR at no extra cost. Not sure if they will do the same for 142 x 12. For the front we needed to buy end caps.

Hope that helps


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

meltingfeather said:


> Neither... there are three versions and the 406892 Rhythm Symmetric is the one you want.


Got it thanks!

If this drawing is accurate, it shows the Rhythm rim strip partially covering some of the bead lock area.









Is that what makes it more successful than the tape method? More friction between tire bead and that area maybe?

It reminds me of the split-inner tube technique.

Thanks again.


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

*Max spoke tension*

Backstory: In my attempt to true a Flow rim , I may have over tightened a few spokes. There are tiny cracks at spoke holes near rock impact areas. Flow rims do not have nipple eyelets ... not sure if this a factor.

Anyhow, I'd like to keep my new LB carbon wheels in great shape.

I'm having Light-Bicycle build me the wide (30mm) rims w/ DT revolution spokes. Does anyone have info on the quality of their wheel builds?

Also, the LB website says max spoke tension: 180kgf.
Should I buy the Park TM-1 Tension Meter ? Opinions?


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

I've been told that 120kgf is what you want even though their website says that up to 180kgf is acceptable.


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

meltingfeather said:


> Neither... there are three versions and the 406892 Rhythm Symmetric is the one you want.


With this rims strip, do the spoke holes still need to be taped over?

Thanks.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

No. Why would you?


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

I wasn't sure how tight these Bonti strips fit onto the rim. I thought the sealant might seep between strip and rim.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

client_9 said:


> Got it thanks!
> 
> If this drawing is accurate, it shows the Rhythm rim strip partially covering some of the bead lock area.
> 
> ...


The strip has its own bead lock.



client_9 said:


> Backstory: In my attempt to true a Flow rim , I may have over tightened a few spokes. There are tiny cracks at spoke holes near rock impact areas. Flow rims do not have nipple eyelets ... not sure if this a factor.


It is not.



client_9 said:


> Anyhow, I'd like to keep my new LB carbon wheels in great shape.
> 
> I'm having Light-Bicycle build me the wide (30mm) rims w/ DT revolution spokes. Does anyone have info on the quality of their wheel builds?
> 
> ...


Can't offer anything on their builds.
Unless you're going to start building wheels, I wouldn't buy a tension meter.
Now that you've ordered the wheels, I would just pluck all the spokes and make sure they strike about the same tone.
You might see if you can pay a reputable local builder to go over the wheels and make sure the build is good, but you may or may not have luck doing that. As a builder, I wouldn't unless it was for one of my buddies.



client_9 said:


> With this rims strip, do the spoke holes still need to be taped over?
> 
> Thanks.


It doesn't hurt.


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

Thanks meltingfeather. I appreciate your help!
I just got the Park TM-1 for ~ 50 bucks. 
I can loan it to the crew for beer. : )

So when I check my LB built wheels, (wide 29" 32H, Hope PRO2, DT rev)
what optimal tension(s) should the spokes be at?

Same tension for drive/non-drive side?

thanks!


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

client_9 said:


> So when I check my LB built wheels, (wide 29" 32H, Hope PRO2, DT rev)
> what optimal tension(s) should the spokes be at?


110-120kgf
17-18 on your Park TM-1



client_9 said:


> Same tension for drive/non-drive side?


No... that would be for a symmetrical wheel (_e.g._, road front).
Just check the disc side on the front and the drive side on the rear for that max. The other two sides are what they are, but you should check for evenness of tension (all spokes on one side have the same).


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## dan4jeepin (Apr 9, 2007)

Has one running a Stans crest changed to these and seen a major improvement? Seems weight is about the same or actually heavier for the carbon fiber.


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

dan4jeepin said:


> Has one running a Stans crest changed to these and seen a major improvement? Seems weight is about the same or actually heavier for the carbon fiber.


HUGE difference. LB's are way stiffer and sort of feel more numb. Hard to describe.

I will never go back to the Crests.


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## Surfdog93 (May 30, 2005)

The rim strips are very snug. I used them in the beginning, but after a couple of tire changes and broken spokes, I ditched then….happily riding without the strips.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

dan4jeepin said:


> Has one running a Stans crest changed to these and seen a major improvement? Seems weight is about the same or actually heavier for the carbon fiber.


The hookless bead rims are lighter........350g


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

I've tried a couple times to contact LB, but can't seem to get a return email from them. I keep checking my spam folder, but not finding anything...


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

Wish I Were Riding said:


> I've tried a couple times to contact LB, but can't seem to get a return email from them. I keep checking my spam folder, but not finding anything...


The Chinese New Year holiday just wrapped a few days ago... it's typically hard to get in touch with Chinese businesses in the end of January to beginning of February time period.


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

meltingfeather said:


> The Chinese New Year holiday just wrapped a few days ago... it's typically hard to get in touch with Chinese businesses in the end of January to beginning of February time period.


Thanks, I had heard something about that, but was not sure how long a delay it might actually be.


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## elsinore (Jun 10, 2005)

Anyone in here have experience with the Novatec D772 hubs that LB is offering with their built wheels? They seem pretty light and look solid. I was thinking of just ordering a set of the Hookless rims with that hub, but cant seem to find much info online about the hub.


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## David C (May 25, 2011)

elsinore said:


> Anyone in here have experience with the Novatec D772 hubs that LB is offering with their built wheels? They seem pretty light and look solid. I was thinking of just ordering a set of the Hookless rims with that hub, but cant seem to find much info online about the hub.


I think they are very similar to the D882, but a newer version, lighter too. Honestly they are all the same internals and basic design, my D881/882 set from them is going smooth and they are good hubs for the price. Plus they are XX1 compatible.


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## dan4jeepin (Apr 9, 2007)

Does anyone know if you can convert the 771 hub to a 9mm thru? The 771/772 combo seems to make more sense if you're trying to build a light weight XC wheel for cheap over the 881/882.


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## raylsgreen (Aug 26, 2009)

Does anybody using these rims measure their spoke tension? LB's rating says 185 kpf max but that's a lot more than I would ever run a spoke tension with anything. I just built a set and I settled on 120 kpf for the more angled spokes and 130 for the short spokes. The wheels feel good so far and no noises. They are a lot lighter than the flows I replaced and a touch wider.


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## elsinore (Jun 10, 2005)

David C said:


> I think they are very similar to the D882, but a newer version, lighter too. Honestly they are all the same internals and basic design, my D881/882 set from them is going smooth and they are good hubs for the price. Plus they are XX1 compatible.


Awesome, thanks. How many points of engagement do these hubs have?


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## David C (May 25, 2011)

elsinore said:


> Awesome, thanks. How many points of engagement do these hubs have?


Low, similar to Shimano. Nothing fancy, but silent. Actually a little tad more noisy than Shimano, but very soft to the ear (which I like). At the time I ordered mines (September 2013) the 771/772 hubset wasn't out yet. That's why I have the heavier, but fully versatile, 881/882 hubset on my XC bike. I really wanted the thru-QR axles since my bike is standard open-dropouts, but always wanted to be able to fit these wheels on any other bikes I want, or if I buy a 15mm fork, etc. I could throw them on my DH no problem too, they are solid, but the hubs makes it heavy at 1800g for the 33mm wide 26" rims (rims are 380g each).


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## David C (May 25, 2011)

raylsgreen said:


> Does anybody using these rims measure their spoke tension? LB's rating says 185 kpf max but that's a lot more than I would ever run a spoke tension with anything. I just built a set and I settled on 120 kpf for the more angled spokes and 130 for the short spokes. The wheels feel good so far and no noises. They are a lot lighter than the flows I replaced and a touch wider.


We usually all go around 120-130 on these rims, including myself. The tension builds up very nicely.


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## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

120kgf drive side and approx 85kgf non drive side.... don't know how you managed 120 & 130 nds/ds.


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## David C (May 25, 2011)

ozzybmx said:


> 120kgf drive side and approx 85kgf non drive side.... don't know how you managed 120 & 130 nds/ds.


Yikes, should have mentioned that 120-130 was the range for the rear drive side/front disc side. Not for both sides. Sorry for the confusion.


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## Andy17 (Sep 18, 2011)

Do you guys use linseed oil or dielectric grease for these carbon rims and nipples?


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## Duggerfam (Feb 3, 2012)

Ok i have read most of the info i can take about these rims. Can someone help me order a set. I ride a 2012 stumpy fsr. I weight 200 pounds. My stumpy FSR comp is stock. I think i want hookless. I ride tubeless stock stumpy tires right now. So i emailed LB and she said they have 27 o 35 mm wide wheelsets in hookless or 30 mm in hooked. i have no clue what one to order. I ride singletrack and fireroads. Just looking to lighten up my stock wheels. thanks for any help.

help me spend 600 please


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## David C (May 25, 2011)

Duggerfam said:


> Ok i have read most of the info i can take about these rims. Can someone help me order a set. I ride a 2012 stumpy fsr. I weight 200 pounds. My stumpy FSR comp is stock. I think i want hookless. I ride tubeless stock stumpy tires right now. So i emailed LB and she said they have 27 o 35 mm wide wheelsets in hookless or 30 mm in hooked. i have no clue what one to order. I ride singletrack and fireroads. Just looking to lighten up my stock wheels. thanks for any help.
> 
> help me spend 600 please


I'd say go with the wide rims (35), because the weight difference is minimal, but you'll be able to run more air volume for the same pressure and being 200lbs, that means less chance to bottom out on the rim if you start getting crazy (because once you get carbon wheels, you start feeling adventurous). But if you really want to keep it down in rolling weight, go with the 27mm ones. For singletracks and fireroads, 35mm is overkill. But if you're considering to extend your riding style to more aggressive and technical trails, the extra width of 35mm will be worth the extra grams.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

*woot woot, 6 weeks and finally got here*

32 hole 35mm hookless, 15mm/12x142 Novatech 771/772 xd11 hubs, Pillar aero 1420 spokes.

First impression;
-wow the box is light.
-wow the rims are wide.
-wow the spokes are thin, feel thinner than Sapim xrays.
-spoke lengths are perfect, they all come right up to the nipple slot.

Second impression;
-Hoping they would be under 1500 grams, oh well.
-Non disc side laced 2 cross on front wheel, cool i would have done the same.
-Non disc side laced 2 cross on rear wheel?? Maybe will be ok but a little screwy. My '01 Crossmax wheels were radial laced on the drive side rear so I am not worried but if it bothers you might have to specify before you order.

Just got'em in, will set them up tubeless tomorrow night and ride'm this weekend


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## David C (May 25, 2011)

Ratt, I'm very curious to hear about the build quality. How much tension range does the higher tension side spokes of each wheels ? I'm expecting it to be above 100kgf, ideally around 120-130.

How true and round are the wheels ? How's the dish ? Have they been stress relieved or not ? Did they used lube on the nipple's seat to minimize wear ? Does the bladed spokes seem twisted or not un-wind ? How much thread do each spokes protrude out of the nipple head ?

Thanks for all your answer !!


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

< delete >


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

David C said:


> Ratt, I'm very curious to hear about the build quality. How much tension range does the higher tension side spokes of each wheels ? Build looks good. Not sure what chart to use but on my park tension meter i get a range of 16-17 on the front wheel and 17-18 on the rear with the low tension sides going 10-12 I'm expecting it to be above 100kgf, ideally around 120-130.
> 
> How true and round are the wheels ? How's the dish ? Sorry too lazy to pull down the true stand and i don't have adapter for these axles. On the eye ball test everything seems good  Have they been stress relieved or not ? Yes they seem relieved but these have big DT swiss like j bends and I expect you can only destress these thin spoke so far. Did they used lube on the nipple's seat to minimize wear ? I don't see any residue or smell anything Does the bladed spokes seem twisted or not un-wind ? All perfectly flat How much thread do each spokes protrude out of the nipple head ?They all come straight flush to the screw driver slot
> 
> Thanks for all your answer !!


 I cannot emphasize how thin these spokes are, the tensiometer must be let go slowly or if let down hard will allow the gauge to go as low as 6 and stay there.


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## David C (May 25, 2011)

Ratt said:


> I cannot emphasize how thin these spokes are, the tensiometer must be let go slowly or if let down hard will allow the gauge to go as low as 6 and stay there.


Thanks very much for the details ! I've had these Pillar spokes sent in with my rims, but they were too short, so I returned them and went with the heavier Sapim Race spokes. I'll check these values on the Park Tool chart for the spokes. Great write-up


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

David C said:


> Thanks very much for the details ! I've had these Pillar spokes sent in with my rims, but they were too short, so I returned them and went with the heavier Sapim Race spokes. I'll check these values on the Park Tool chart for the spokes. Great write-up


Alright, the dish question bothered me so I pulled out the true stand out. The dish was spot on, horizontal true was about .6mm, forgot to check vertical true.

Used a single wrap of 8898 tape over the spoke holes. 2.4 exo Ardents and 2.25 TR Ardents mounted easy by hand and I was able to seat the beads tubeless with a floor pump. I've never been able to use a floor pump to seat a bead with Stan's rims or Dt Swiss with a single wrap of tape.


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## David C (May 25, 2011)

Thanks Ratt, that's good news for a Chinese built wheelset. Although I would have hoped to find some evidences that they lube the nipple seats prior to building.


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## Andy17 (Sep 18, 2011)

I was wondering what they were using or if they used anything for lube. I have heard you should use dielectric grease and not linseed oil.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

Andy17 said:


> I was wondering what they were using or if they used anything for lube. I have heard you should use dielectric grease and not linseed oil.


I've heard unicorn semen is the best. :arf:

WTF would dielectric grease do? Before your go off into electron flow and corrosion dynamics, maybe figure out first what the theoretical thickness of the layer of dielectric grease between nipple and rim would be and whether it would actually pose any barrier.


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## David C (May 25, 2011)

meltingfeather said:


> I've heard unicorn semen is the best. :arf:
> 
> WTF would dielectric grease do? Before your go off into electron flow and corrosion dynamics, maybe figure out first what the theoretical thickness of the layer of dielectric grease between nipple and rim would be and whether it would actually pose any barrier.


I just used a drop of Finish Line Wet Lube on each nipple. Still moist to this day.


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## In2falling (Jan 1, 2005)

David C said:


> Thanks Ratt, that's good news for a Chinese built wheelset. Although I would have hoped to find some evidences that they lube the nipple seats prior to building.


I had them build a 29er wheel set for me few months, and had to rebuild the rear wheel with new spokes for they were close to 5mm to long. Also appears the they do not lube anything (nipple seats or threads), at least they did not on mine.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

In2falling said:


> I had them build a 29er wheel set for me few months, and had to rebuild the rear wheel with new spokes for they were close to 5mm to long. Also appears the they do not lube anything (nipple seats or threads), at least they did not on mine.


But their experts at wheels, they have engineers and all. They're not copy cats, they should know how to build a wheel, so if there isn't any lube, it's not needed for a proper built.:thumbsup:


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## Andy17 (Sep 18, 2011)

Quote
WTF would dielectric grease do? Before your go off into electron flow and corrosion dynamics, maybe figure out first what the theoretical thickness of the layer of dielectric grease between nipple and rim would be and whether it would actually pose any barrier.

I think they were going after the grease for its ability to stay around on the nipple and possibly not cause some other problem. I really don't see the need for dielectric grease either but have seen it in posts a couple of times. I'm not an engineer do t really know and that's why I asked. Their were some guys posting that might have known what to use but I guess they aren't answering. 
I would think something would help with friction at the rim and nipple contact area. So what do you suggest?


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## In2falling (Jan 1, 2005)

Andy17 said:


> Quote
> WTF would dielectric grease do? Before your go off into electron flow and corrosion dynamics, maybe figure out first what the theoretical thickness of the layer of dielectric grease between nipple and rim would be and whether it would actually pose any barrier.
> 
> I think they were going after the grease for its ability to stay around on the nipple and possibly not cause some other problem. I really don't see the need for dielectric grease either but have seen it in posts a couple of times. I'm not an engineer do t really know and that's why I asked. Their were some guys posting that might have known what to use but I guess they aren't answering.
> I would think something would help with friction at the rim and nipple contact area. So what do you suggest?


If you are using aluminum nipples I would use dielectric grease around the nipple seat to help with galvanic corrosion issues with aluminum nipples and carbon rims. In theory it should help prevent/slow down this corrosion issue.

I used aluminum nipples with my first set of LB wheels and ran into galvanic corrosion issues in which the nipples were crumpling and falling apart after 6 months.


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## David C (May 25, 2011)

TwoTone said:


> But their experts at wheels, they have engineers and all. They're not copy cats, they should know how to build a wheel, so if there isn't any lube, it's not needed for a proper built.:thumbsup:


I don't think that being good at building a wheel for a low-end Chinese manufacturing means that they actually decide how to build the wheel. They probably just get the wheel already laced from another employee and build it up to tension. I don't believe they are anywhere near what wheelsmith expertise stands.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

Andy17 said:


> I think they were going after the grease for its ability to stay around on the nipple and possibly not cause some other problem. I really don't see the need for dielectric grease either but have seen it in posts a couple of times. I'm not an engineer do t really know and that's why I asked. Their were some guys posting that might have known what to use but I guess they aren't answering.
> I would think something would help with friction at the rim and nipple contact area. So what do you suggest?


I use Phil Wood grease because a Q-Tip fits perfectly in the end of the tube and the resulting greased cotton shape mates perfectly with nipple holes.
You have to be skeptical when someone on MTBR says, "in theory."


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

All these posts about light-bike's wheel building deficiencies are bumming me out.
(no lube on nipple seats or threads, for example)

My LB wheel set should be arriving soon.

I went with DT Rev spokes, which i assume come with brass nipples.

Am I good to go or should I "rebuild" my wheels by lubing the nipple seats and threads?

I have a spoke tension meter and have _some_ experience building wheels.

thanks.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

client_9 said:


> All these posts about light-bike's wheel building deficiencies are bumming me out.
> (no lube on nipple seats or threads, for example)
> 
> My LB wheel set should be arriving soon.
> ...


I would personally. I think its fun though.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

client_9 said:


> All these posts about light-bike's wheel building deficiencies are bumming me out.
> (no lube on nipple seats or threads, for example)
> 
> My LB wheel set should be arriving soon.
> ...


You know, I'm getting my second set of wheels from Mike at Lacemine29 and each time I've priced out what I can get the parts for and compare it to what he is charging. It's been very reasonable both time, so I'd rather pay a small builder like him than just going for lowest cost.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

TwoTone said:


> You know, I'm getting my second set of wheels from Mike at LaceMy29 and each time I've priced out what I can get the parts for and compare it to what he is charging. It's been very reasonable both time, so I'd rather pay a small builder like him than just going for lowest cost.


It's also not just cost you're comparing.
If that were the case you'd drink Bud Light instead of Ska Ten Pin because they're both beers, right?
Mike's builds are going to blow whatever kid is twisting nips for LB's builds out of the water all day, every day.
Apples to styrofoam peanuts.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

TwoTone said:


> You know, I'm getting my second set of wheels from Mike at LaceMy29 and each time I've priced out what I can get the parts for and compare it to what he is charging. It's been very reasonable both time, so I'd rather pay a small builder like him than just going for lowest cost.


+1. I went with mikesee--but with different rims--and the cost increase on my specific build was pretty negligible from taking the cheap way out. Of course, I have no idea whether mike will build with these LB rims or not.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

meltingfeather said:


> It's also not just cost you're comparing.
> If that were the case you'd drink Bud Light instead of Ska Ten Pin because they're both beers, right?
> Mike's builds are going to blow whatever kid is twisting nips for LB's builds out of the water all day, every day.
> Apples to styrofoam peanuts.


That was my entire point. For a few dollars more a wheel built by Mike is going to be so much better and in the end, you aren't saving anything by have LB build the wheels.

People are so short sighted.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Slow Danger said:


> +1. I went with mikesee--but with different rims--and the cost increase on my specific build was pretty negligible from taking the cheap way out. Of course, I have no idea whether mike will build with these LB rims or not.


He has in the past. I don't want to speak for him.


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

TwoTone said:


> ... you aren't saving anything by have LB build the wheels.
> 
> People are so short sighted.


Or uninformed (in my case)

I'll report back when I get my wheels.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

How do I get a hold of this Mike at LaceMy29?


TwoTone said:


> You know, I'm getting my second set of wheels from Mike at LaceMy29 and each time I've priced out what I can get the parts for and compare it to what he is charging. It's been very reasonable both time, so I'd rather pay a small builder like him than just going for lowest cost.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Bailey44 said:


> How do I get a hold of this Mike at LaceMy29?


Lace Mine 29 - Big Bicycle Wheels


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## Dr Wankel (Oct 2, 2007)

Slow Danger said:


> Of course, I have no idea whether mike will build with these LB rims or not.


He gave me a very reasonable price quote to re-build a wheelset using LB rims just a couple of weeks ago.


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## PauLCa916 (Jul 1, 2013)

TwoTone said:


> Lace Mine 29 - Big Bicycle Wheels


When you go to the site read his process for wheel building.
After I talked to two local builders and hearing their building process.
Mike goes the extra mile IMHO.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

PauLCa916 said:


> When you go to the site read his process for wheel building.
> After I talked to two local builders and hearing their building process.
> Mike goes the extra mile IMHO.


Mike knows what he is doing. If I lived in the US I'd use him.

As it stands I have a couple local bike mechanics I trust who have built me several sets of flawless wheels.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

client_9 said:


> All these posts about light-bike's wheel building deficiencies are bumming me out.
> (no lube on nipple seats or threads, for example)
> 
> My LB wheel set should be arriving soon.
> ...


If you have wheel building experience I don't see the harm in unwinding the spokes and lubing things up. I live in Socal where its dry and it is considered bad form to ride wet trails so I just drop lube on both ends of the nipple and called it good. Ya i'm lazy.

I've been building my own wheels for over 10 years so it did feel weird buying a pre-built wheelset. I did the math and the price was the same as me sourcing all the components, and I am lazy. 2 pluses for me was trying out Pillar spokes and bladed spokes. With bladed spokes windup would be easy to detect, so was not worried about the build being too wonky. Worst case scenario would have been replacing short spokes.

Except for the lack of lube on the nipples the build is decent enough for me. I'd rather have a dry nipple than a wheel built with Spokeprep or locktite.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Even if you don't wheel building experience take those wheels, a six pack and $25 down to a LBS with some decent mechanics and ask them to go over the wheels for you. Minor cost/hassle and you can ride them without concern after that.

And that's not LB related advice. Unless I was getting my wheels built by Mike C any wheels that come in a box from somewhere else would get a once over by a human I can talk to.


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

so, what's the usual shipping time from these guys?

i know they had chinese new year, but it is coming up to 7 weeks, and i haven't even got a tracking number yet.

anyone else who ordered in the middle of January still waiting?

i've never dealt with these guys before, and the 45 days since payment (they took the money in early feb via paypal) is starting to weigh on my mind.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

sclyde2 said:


> so, what's the usual shipping time from these guys?
> 
> i know they had chinese new year, but it is coming up to 7 weeks, and i haven't even got a tracking number yet.
> 
> ...


I paid on 5 Jan....they were shipped on 21 Jan and I got them in about 5-6 business days.

Are you getting email updates and an ETA for the rims? I haven't heard of anyone that was ripped off by these folks, but certainly an order can get snafu'd.


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

sclyde2 said:


> so, what's the usual shipping time from these guys?
> 
> i know they had chinese new year, but it is coming up to 7 weeks, and i haven't even got a tracking number yet.
> 
> ...


I ordered towards the end of Jan, and Feb 19 I was told(after emailing them twice for updates) that my rims are on "sanding". Haven't heard anything since


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## Man from Utopia (Jun 16, 2005)

I ordered a rear wheel from L-B in early January and received in late February. The wheel got snagged by US Customs. I got a letter from Homeland Security and a $28 fine. This is the second time this has happened to me.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Man from Utopia said:


> I ordered a rear wheel from L-B in early January and received in late February. The wheel got snagged by US Customs. I got a letter from Homeland Security and a $28 fine. This is the second time this has happened to me.


Why would you get a fine? Taxes/duties I understand, but what's wrong with buying a bicycle wheel from China?


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## ozzybmx (Jun 30, 2008)

Ordered, was waiting on them dropping through the door anyday (3rd set), got an email from Nancy saying they were shipping, 5 days later they were delivered.

Was not happy when i got the "shipped" email as i was waiting on them but they arrived very quickly.

If you have went with decals or certain drilling or weave, it will probably take longer than the regular plain 32h UD weave as they might have stock.


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

I order 32h ud matte. From what I understand, you have 45 days from the date of payment to open a dispute with paypal? It's been 44 days. Rims haven't been shipped. I'm wondering if I should open a dispute.

Edit: It's actually been 45 days today


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Kawigreen99 said:


> I order 32h ud matte. From what I understand, you have 45 days from the date of payment to open a dispute with paypal? It's been 44 days. Rims haven't been shipped. I'm wondering if I should open a dispute.
> 
> Edit: It's actually been 45 days today


Paypal will not be of any help....your are only covered if you buy from ebay...i learned the hard way...but if you paid paypal with your credit card you can work with the card company...


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

Has anyone taken delivery from light-bicycle since the chinese new year holidays? I.e. after the first week of February.

Edit: I see that someone in a post above received in late feb


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

tartosuc said:


> Paypal will not be of any help....your are only covered if you buy from ebay...i learned the hard way...but if you paid paypal with your credit card you can work with the card company...


I don't see anything on paypal's site saying it must be an ebay purchase

'Purchase Protection covers all your online purchases, on eBay or on any other website, when you use PayPal. It also covers you when you make a payment on our website. You must open a dispute within 45 days of your purchase or payment to initiate the Purchase Protection process. Finally, your account must be in good standing with us to get Purchase Protection. '


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

I got the "sanding" response too. I have just about run out of patience, and will probably cancel it (still within 45 days). I see on other threads that people who have ordered almost a month after me have received theirs. Maybe they get better service when going via eBay.

So, anyone got an ideas about something similar from a different supplier?


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

I opened up a dispute through paypal. Magically, my rims were ready to ship that day, and I now have them in my possession


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## AZmtncycler (Jan 23, 2004)

some of my orders from them have taken @ 5 weeks before shipping. I'm patient and they always let me know the status of my orders.


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

32 days and counting on my wheelset. 
I special ordered the newer Hope 40t POE rear hub.


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

I ordered my rims on Feb 14th, and still have not been told they have shipped. Apparently they are busy.


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## Jake_kth (Jun 2, 2011)

I see a lot of comments about long waits... I ordered a set of Hookless AMs from them on 12/26/13 and final recieved them on 2/6/2014. It was a long wait but I can say that I love the wheels from my limited sample size of 3 rides.


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## -Todd- (Jun 13, 2011)

Isn't there some labour action going on in China currently?


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

it looks like i mis-read the paypal rules. i was thinking that the 45 days starts when they actually take my money (5th Feb). it appears that it starts when the actual transaction is initiated (16th jan), so i will get no help from paypal getting my money back. it looks like i will have to rely on light-bicycle caring about its reputation.

after a series of emails on the day i did the transaction, they gave absolutely no updates to me, until i asked them after about 45-46 days. looks like i was too patient.


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

AZmtncycler said:


> some of my orders from them have taken @ 5 weeks before shipping. I'm patient and they always let me know the status of my orders.


would you be patient if it was the first time you dealt with them, got no updates, and it was coming up to 8 weeks?


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## AZmtncycler (Jan 23, 2004)

sclyde2 said:


> would you be patient if it was the first time you dealt with them, got no updates, and it was coming up to 8 weeks?


ok, so 2 months is indeed too long. Have you emailed either Kartrin or Nancy?
Both of them respond to my emails/inquiries every time. I've got a 2nd set of the 35mm hookless 29er rims coming and they do take awhile. One was ready but the other was still in "sanding" state. Kartrin emailed me saying the production line is swamped right now. I know this doesn't help you any but regular follow up emails might spur them on....


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## David C (May 25, 2011)

sclyde2 said:


> would you be patient if it was the first time you dealt with them, got no updates, and it was coming up to 8 weeks?


Keep in mind that they are 12 hours ahead of you (using East Coast time zone, GTM-5), so when you get up in the morning, they are ending their day in the office. Although I suspect them to run almost 20 hours a day, because I was getting emails from them as late as midnight on their clock. Best time I found to have a good flow on email replies was 4am to 6am on east coast and sometimes till 11am.

I only used emails, never tried the livechat or to call them. Like said above, they might be swamped with orders after the holidays.


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## PauLCa916 (Jul 1, 2013)

I would think because of them being closed for the Chinese New Year that order's are backed up for awhile till they catch up.
For me the wait is worth the $800 I'm saving over using Roval's.


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## biggusjimmus (Sep 23, 2010)

Jeez guys, don't order popular parts from a small company on the other side of the world around the time of their biggest annual holiday and then complain it's taken weeks for them to arrive! 

Also, if you keep hassling them they might rush the ones I've got on order and mess something up


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## Couloirman (Sep 17, 2010)

Has the rim bulging at the nipple only happened in people using really high spoke tension, or has anyone had a rim bulge using standard tensions ~100-120?



Man from Utopia said:


> I ordered a rear wheel from L-B in early January and received in late February. The wheel got snagged by US Customs. I got a letter from Homeland Security and a $28 fine. This is the second time this has happened to me.


Why did they snag it? Under valuing? What is illegal about ordering a commercial product from China? Did they keep the rim or give it back once you paid the fine?


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

katrin got back to me. says that they will be shipped before this weekend (the first time they have actually supplied an ETA with a date in it), one day short of two months since i ordered. so, it will be over 2 months from ordering to receiving.

yes, i know that they had a holiday, and i factored in another 2 weeks delay, hence why i didn't bother them for so long. they did mention the holiday causing delays in their initial email after i ordered, but they quoted the standard 13 working day manuf lead time plus the 4-7 day shipping time when i asked for an estimated date that i would receive them. if they were a bit more honest when setting expectations, there wouldn't be so much angst.

i am yet to hear of anyone who has waited as long as i have. btw, i ordered 2 sets: one pair 29er hookless XC UD gloss 28, one pair 26er AM UD gloss 32. i didn't expect these to be in stock - the matt stuff seems more popular, and the 28 holes might not be either.

and, biggusjimmus, it is not weeks, it is months. will you be complaining if your rims take over 2 months to arrive? let us know when you get them.


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## slug3135 (Nov 5, 2013)

Was about to pull the trigger on some 35mm rims but was unsure on two points:

1. It's better to order through ebay right? The paypal/ebay setup seems like it would cover me in case of issues.

2. 27mm is probably better for not all that technical single track?

Leaning toward dt swiss 240s and dt swiss spokes.


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

*" Your rims are still on sanding now."*

I placed a wheel set order on February 7th.... 
got the tracking # today.
42 days.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

nofa said:


> Wiel Full Carbon Fiber Bike Wheel Sets & Mtb Bicycle Wheel 29"clincher M28-c
> 
> Damn, i love that wheel set, is that good one?


1900 grams? Why is it so heavy?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Ratt said:


> 1900 grams? Why is it so heavy?


I wasn't going to say anything, but you do get what you pay for. Carbon rims, 24 and 28 spoke count and it still comes out to 1900g. Sounds like crap to me.


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## PauLCa916 (Jul 1, 2013)

Okay am I missing something ?
Brake surface material	High temperature resistant carbon fiber & resin (v-Brake's) ?
Brake pads	Shimano 9/10 ?
Recommended fields for usage:climbing
So these are for V Brakes and are made for climbing ?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

PauLCa916 said:


> Okay am I missing something ?
> Brake surface material	High temperature resistant carbon fiber & resin (v-Brake's) ?
> Brake pads	Shimano 9/10 ?
> Recommended fields for usage:climbing
> So these are for V Brakes and are made for climbing ?


When you're a copier and not actually engineering anything you make, these are the kinds of specs you are going to see for a product.


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## BamaBulldawg (Feb 3, 2008)

What 2 rims are those in the pictures?



slug3135 said:


> Was about to pull the trigger on some 35mm rims but was unsure on two points:
> 
> 1. It's better to order through ebay right? The paypal/ebay setup seems like it would cover me in case of issues.
> 
> ...


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## slug3135 (Nov 5, 2013)

BamaBulldawg said:


> What 2 rims are those in the pictures?


27mm and 35mm external width hookless 29" rims.

I ordered the 27mm. Wondering if I would've enjoyed the traction of the 35mm more. I may need to order those someday too. I also ordered 32 holes but wonder if I could have gotten away with 28 at 170 pounds?


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

slug3135 said:


> 27mm and 35mm external width hookless 29" rims.
> 
> I ordered the 27mm. Wondering if I would've enjoyed the traction of the 35mm more. I may need to order those someday too. I also ordered 32 holes but wonder if I could have gotten away with 28 at 170 pounds?


What I like most about wider rims is that the give me much better steering precision with the wider tires I run. I didn't notice a change in traction.


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

*tire(s) fit on the "all mountain 29er" rim?*

I ordered the all mountain 29er rims.  
I will be setting them up tubeless w/ the Bontrager strips and sealant.

Can anyone tell me how tight GEAX tires are on them?
Too tight or just right?

I also have an IKON in both widths. How do they fit?

thanks.


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

slug3135 said:


> 27mm and 35mm external width hookless 29" rims.
> 
> I ordered the 27mm. Wondering if I would've enjoyed the traction of the 35mm more. I may need to order those someday too. I also ordered 32 holes but wonder if I could have gotten away with 28 at 170 pounds?


Searching the thread led me to these pictures... what is the INTERNAL width of the light-bicycle 35mm hookless rim? Is it going to square off a 29x2.2 tire so much that it has a negative impact on traction?


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

client_9 said:


> I ordered the all mountain 29er rims.
> I will be setting them up tubeless w/ the Bontrager strips and sealant.
> 
> Can anyone tell me how tight GEAX tires are on them?
> ...


If the Geax are TNT they're probably going to be tight, but I got mine on. You just have to do all the right things on install (valve last, bead in the channel, etc). No room for sloppy technique.
IKONs should be no problem. I have a 2.35 on the front and 2.25 on the back right now.


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## donnieboy (Jan 20, 2014)

oops.


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

On February 7th I ordered a wheel set (30mm wide 29" with Hope hubs)

They were delivered on March 29th.

I haven't thrashed them yet, but I'm pleased w/ the build.

~115 Kgf spoke tension and very true. 
I went w/ the DT Rev spokes (2.0 - 1.5 - 2.0) Way more flex than I'm accustomed to. I usually use DT Comp spokes or heavier. I'm 210 lbs and ride some chunky trails. hmmm.

If going tubeless, I highly recommend the Bontrager strips. 
These tires all fit perfectly and beads popped into place @ 20psi:
- Panaracer Rampage
- Maxxis Ardent 
- maxxis IKON (tight fit w/ the IKON ... gonna need man hands)

I don't have a scale but I definitely saved some weight over my previous wheels (Flows / White Ind hubs / straight spokes)


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## abrinkma12 (Apr 18, 2008)

My experience...

Just got my set of 30mm (internal width) hookless 3k weave wheels, Pillar spokes laced to Novatec hubs. They weighed in just north of 1600grams, mounted up tubeless really easily with Stan's tape and valve stems and they are wide as heck. I saw some lateral stiffness tests on MTBR when researching these and I'd be curious to see how these perform for that test. The wheels are stiff. (Not a surprise since they're replacing Crests.) If you didn't know brands or labels, you'd think by looking at this build that these are top quality.

Getting them was a pain. I requested DT spokes and Nancy said they wouldn't have those spokes for 3 months. Pillar it is. I placed the order on March 7th, got the "they are in sanding" reply a couple weeks after placing the order with no ECD, and, really, two more emails and never got an ECD. Once I put all that together, I asked Kartrin to cancel the order and, again, magically, she had a tracking number for me the next day. They arrived in California four to five days after they shipped.

Packaging was nice and secure - as one would hope. I didn't give a close look to the wheel build but will mount them up in the truing stand after another ride or two.

Just before they shipped, I saw the Ibis wheels launch and noticed that they also use Pillar spokes - am wondering if Ibis was the big fish that pushed my build to the back burner.


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## elsinore (Jun 10, 2005)

I finally received my wheelset form LB last week after ordering March 7th. I figured there would be a wait so I was patient. So far, I'm super impressed. Here is the build:
LB 'Wider 29er mountain rim clincher' 30mm ext. width, 23 internal
Pilar 1420 blades spokes, Alloy nips
Novatec d771, d772 hubs 28 front and 32 rear
Front weight 666 (good thing I'm not superstitious) rear: 814 Total: 1480 Much lighter than I was expecting!
-I'm liking the Novatec hubs so far. They spin nicely, engagement is on the low side at about 27 points but that does not really bother me. They are light!

These went on my Ibis Ripley with a sturdy build. (60mm stem, 140mm fork and 2.3/ 2.4 tires. I push the Ripley to its limit riding the occasional DH trail hitting gaps, drops, etc. and so far these wheels are a serious game changer for the big wheeled bike. I had Arch EX's on there before and the flex at high speeds, in hard bermd corners and blasting through chunk was driving me nuts. The bike will hold hard high speed lines now almost as well as my Nomad. So impressed!
Plus my bike is 3/4 of a pound lighter, It noticeably carries more speed with these wheels.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Elsinore, did you get the hookless rims?


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## elsinore (Jun 10, 2005)

*Clincher*



dgw7000 said:


> Elsinore, did you get the hookless rims?


Nope, mine are the clinchers with the bead hook.


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## slow ridr (May 23, 2012)

Elsinore,

What rear tire are you using on your Ripley? How is the clearance?


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## elsinore (Jun 10, 2005)

slow ridr said:


> Elsinore,
> 
> What rear tire are you using on your Ripley? How is the clearance?


Right now I have a Conti xking 2.4, Its got decent clearance. I've also run a Bontrager 29.3 
2.3 with decent clearance.


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## qirill (Dec 20, 2010)

Hi there
Anyone here about those guys
Carbon Bicycle,carbon frame,carbon rim,carbon wheel,carbon wheelset,carbon mountain bike,carbon road bike CarbonBicycle
The site looks pretty similar to Light Bicycle with almost the same content but a bit cheaper...any experience/ideas?


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## PauLCa916 (Jul 1, 2013)

qirill said:


> Hi there
> Anyone here about those guys
> Carbon Bicycle,carbon frame,carbon rim,carbon wheel,carbon wheelset,carbon mountain bike,carbon road bike CarbonBicycle
> The site looks pretty similar to Light Bicycle with almost the same content but a bit cheaper...any experience/ideas?


Have not seen this.
But I see they are putting SRAM and Zipp stickers on their products so I don't know how long they will be around.
Not very cool IMHO I wouldn't buy from them myself.


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## GoldenDragoon (Apr 21, 2013)

Just thought I would throw my 2 cents in...

I ordered a hookless 29er wheelset with self supplied hubs (American Classic 130/225 32h) I had problems with my rear hub not showing up and had to claim & reorder it. From when I put the order into LB it took them about 7 days from when I paid to tell me rims where ready. When they got my hubs they had the wheels built within a few days however they put wrong decals on so it was another 5 days to change them (not sure how?). Shipping was rouhgly a week. 

Wheelset weighs 1402g and rolls great with about 500k on them so far. Still perfectly true including some jumping and drop offs on my XC hardtail. I run low pressures and have hit the rims a few times but no damage yet. Mounting up tubeless the rims seem a little small and not very tight. I used 3 layers of stans tape to get a seal with a floor pump however 1st time they went up like ztr rims. So far I am quite happy and am looking at another set of these rims for a 1100g race wheelset.


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## qirill (Dec 20, 2010)

you talking about 35mm rims or 27mm?


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

GoldenDragoon said:


> .. am looking at another set of these rims for a 1100g race wheelset.


what hubs and spokes do you plan to use to do that? i didn't know you could get a set of hubs/spokes/nipples that weighed 400g in total


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I just ordered 29er rims!! 30mm outside, 24mm inside, hookless, 600 ERD, UD matte. Weight 390 + or - 10g. The great thing is I will be able to reuse my i9 Torch hubs and alloy spokes, but will see!! If not I have Hadley hubs with DT Rev. spokes.

These rims are not on the site, Nancy told me about them!! 165/each.


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## elsinore (Jun 10, 2005)

dgw7000 said:


> I just ordered 29er rims!! 30mm outside, 24mm inside, hookless, 600 ERD, UD matte. Weight 390 + or - 10g. The great thing is I will be able to reuse my i9 Torch hubs and alloy spokes, but will see!! If not I have Hadley hubs with DT Rev. spokes.
> 
> These rims are not on the site, Nancy told me about them!! 165/each.


So they are making a 24mm internal width 29er hookless rim now?


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Yes


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## GoldenDragoon (Apr 21, 2013)

Qrill: they are the xc hookless. I think they are about 25wide (22 internal) from memory. Just under 360g per rim.



sclyde2 said:


> what hubs and spokes do you plan to use to do that? i didn't know you could get a set of hubs/spokes/nipples that weighed 400g in total


The build I am looking at is the same rims as above, extralite hypers front and rear, pillar x-tra lite ti, alloy nipples, race laced. Should be just over 1100.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

GoldenDragoon said:


> race laced.


What is that?


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## GoldenDragoon (Apr 21, 2013)

Race lacing uses less spoke cross where it is not needed so there is less spoke weight in the build. For. MTB that is....
Front: Radial DS / 2x NDS
Rear: 3x DS / 2x NDS
Where DS is the drive side of the hub, and NDS is the disc side of the hub. You save a decent chunck of weight on the front, and a bit on the back with shorter spokes. Its good for a race specific wheelset but not worth the savings for everyday riding as this setup is more prone to fatigue.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

GoldenDragoon said:


> Race lacing uses less spoke cross where it is not needed so there is less spoke weight in the build. For. MTB that is....
> Front: Radial DS / 2x NDS
> Rear: 3x DS / 2x NDS
> Where DS is the drive side of the hub, and NDS is the disc side of the hub. You save a decent chunck of weight on the front, and a bit on the back with shorter spokes. Its good for a race specific wheelset but not worth the savings for everyday riding as this setup is more prone to fatigue.


You don't save that much weight (you don't even know how much), and you're blowing smoke out your ass about fatigue (I know too much to buy this type of BS about bike wheels).
It's cute how it rhymes, though, and that may be the most valuable thing about it if you're talking about "performance."
It's not like this is some standard thing, I was just curious what you meant by it.


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## zweigelt (Jul 8, 2008)

GoldenDragoon said:


> Race lacing
> Front: Radial DS / 2x NDS
> Rear: 3x DS / 2x NDS


Race lacing???? 

why not 2x DS/NDS front and rear? Nearly similar weight than yours, and more practicable.


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## ritchief (Sep 23, 2010)

In reply to elsinore LB are producing 3 models as attached.


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## GoldenDragoon (Apr 21, 2013)

Meltingfeather: each too his own. I'm not preaching that this is the best thing since sliced bread, only that it is the option I want.



zweigelt said:


> Race lacing????
> 
> why not 2x DS/NDS front and rear? Nearly similar weight than yours, and more practicable.


You want 3x on the drive side on the rear cause thats the spokes that will be coping the brunt of the load. Apparently 2x on disk brakes is fine and you don't require any crossing for the drive side of the front due to no loads. As a whole unit this setup is supposed to provide the best benefits of weight and stiffness.


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## 10Ways2Sunday (Jun 22, 2011)

So I've just read through this thread and need a suggestion for which wheelset (rim,spoke,count, hub, etc.). 

I weigh 165 and race endurance races...often rocky terrain.
I occasionally do ultra-endurance races where my weight + gear + water will be 190lbs.
I need it to be 11 speed compatible. 
15mm thru axle
My usual tire combo is maxxis ignitor in the front and crossmax in the rear.
29er giant anthem x advanced

Alternatively, I could just get rims and build from there (actually, have a friend builder build them), but I think I'd like to try a set from lb. Also, have you found a time frame to receive difference between buying the parts and shipped and having them build and ship?

Thanks!


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I would not have them built at factory. I would buy the rims, Hadley Hubs with XD driver now lighter than Chris King hubs and better valve. Dt Swiss Revolution spokes with alloy nips, 2 cross lacing front and rear. Get them built by a good wheel builder.
I like the the wider rims I think 30mm, 24mm inside and still light at 390g is perfect. You could also go to the lighter 27mm wide rim, either way it would be a killer wheel set!!


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

10Ways2Sunday said:


> So I've just read through this thread and need a suggestion for which wheelset (rim,spoke,count, hub, etc.).
> 
> I weigh 165 and race endurance races...often rocky terrain.
> I occasionally do ultra-endurance races where my weight + gear + water will be 190lbs.
> ...


If you have some you trust that can build them, why the hell would you have them built by LB?


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## GoldenDragoon (Apr 21, 2013)

Whats wrong with LB wheel building? My set was true and spoke tension is pretty even. Plenty of rough rides on these wheels and a few smaller drop offs and everything is still nice a true. I couldn't say the same about my last set of wheels which should have been stronger.


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

GoldenDragoon said:


> The build I am looking at is the same rims as above, extralite hypers front and rear, pillar x-tra lite ti, alloy nipples, race laced. Should be just over 1100.


gotta admit, i was skeptical. those are some seriously light hubs and spokes though. you will get it much closer to 1100g than i thought possible, but even if you went 28 spokes, it'd still be a bit over - but maybe you wouldn't. aren't thin ti spokes a little stretchy? ... or is that an old wives' tale?

over the years, i have looked at the various exotic super-light hubs, but always went back to the trusty 240s. i am probably a bit conservative. i looked up those hyper hubs and while i couldn't find a lot of reports on them durability-wise, they seem like really nice hubs.

good luck with the wheel build. post them up when you have them built up.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

GoldenDragoon said:


> Meltingfeather: each too his own. I'm not preaching that this is the best thing since sliced bread, only that it is the option I want.


Absolutely. If that's what you want, go for it. I've never been one to condemn what others choose for themselves. Its the bit about trade offs and fatigue that is just blowing smoke.



GoldenDragoon said:


> You want 3x on the drive side on the rear cause thats the spokes that will be coping the brunt of the load. Apparently 2x on disk brakes is fine and you don't require any crossing for the drive side of the front due to no loads. As a whole unit this setup is supposed to provide the best benefits of weight and stiffness.


Disc braking forces are significantly higher than drive forces. 2x all around works fine, but so does a lot of variants. My rigid SS front wheel is 3x/1x heads out. :thumbsup:


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## GoldenDragoon (Apr 21, 2013)

sclyde2 said:


> gotta admit, i was skeptical. those are some seriously light hubs and spokes though. you will get it much closer to 1100g than i thought possible, but even if you went 28 spokes, it'd still be a bit over - but maybe you wouldn't. aren't thin ti spokes a little stretchy? ... or is that an old wives' tale?
> 
> over the years, i have looked at the various exotic super-light hubs, but always went back to the trusty 240s. i am probably a bit conservative. i looked up those hyper hubs and while i couldn't find a lot of reports on them durability-wise, they seem like really nice hubs.
> 
> good luck with the wheel build. post them up when you have them built up.


I was looking at 28 spokes front and rear in ti. The builder comented that those spokes are a little flexy on a 29er. I am considering 32 spoke on the rear cause even 32 spoke ti is lighter than 28 megalite ss. This wheelset is only going to be for racing and I am not a strong rider so weight is the most important goal. I estimate the wheelset at less than 1150g if I can get similar weight rims to my previous ones.


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

GoldenDragoon said:


> .... if I can get similar weight rims to my previous ones.


i think i read on here that someone asked for (and got) a slightly lighter version of one of the LB rims. if you are light enough to be looking at 28 ti spokes on 29er rims, maybe you should look into that too.


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## GoldenDragoon (Apr 21, 2013)

Yeah I did that with my last wheels too.... I asked for the lighter wheels in the run and got a 357g and 358g rim. Hopefully with some sucking up I get the same or better this time.


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

it was one of these threads, where i remember someone getting some rims at least 20 or 30g lighter than spec, or maybe even more. i remember that they said there was a little less carbon in them somewhere.

at 357/8g, what you got doesn't seem any different to normal. mine were 360g (on a 10g increment scale) for the 27mm hookless UD gloss.

now that you are an existing customer, you might have a little more sway.


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## M0riarty (Aug 2, 2007)

I just received my set last week (27mm hookless, UD, 32 hole, XC) and they weighed in at 342g/352g on my scale. I didn't make any special requests to LB either.

Maybe they are optimizing the layup process?


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## SJDude (Oct 29, 2009)

PauLCa916 said:


> I would think because of them being closed for the Chinese New Year that order's are backed up for awhile till they catch up.
> For me the wait is worth the $800 I'm saving over using Roval's.


I really think you guys are just dealing with the spring time bike buying rush. I ordered in mid december and got my rims in mid jan. Even eyeglasses from Smartbuy glasses in China took almost 3 weeks to arrive so something that hasn't been built yet is going to take a while.

That said Katrin responds to emails very quickly. [email protected]

I'm still waiting almost a month for an Absolute Black chainring and they're in the UK...


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Nancy told me 12 days to make the rims, so I should have them in about a month. We'll see !


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## Projectnortheast (Mar 29, 2011)

I've got an Ibis ripley as well, I have archex's laced to Hopes right now, an the wheel flex is annoying. I too charge some hard lines at the local DH. Rode it at highland mountain bike park doing some enduro racing an they were like spaghetti. Anyhoo, what rim should I go with now that there are so many options? the 30mm external or the 35mm external? I am running 2.4 xkings as well on my ripley and they are good. I also have an intense carbine that I am running 30mm light-bicycle rims on (650b/27.5) and they are all that!


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## LarsF (Feb 14, 2004)

*Cross tires?*

I am thinking about building a set for double duty as cross wheels. Has anyone tried these headless rims with cross or road clinchers? How narrow of a tire would work on these?


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

LarsF said:


> I am thinking about building a set for double duty as cross wheels. Has anyone tried these headless rims with cross or road clinchers? How narrow of a tire would work on these?


 i am running the hookless LB rims (22mm internal width) with 35mm road tyres (schwalbes, kojak and marathon race) on my commuter. i reckon it could probably take tyres 30mm wide, or even narrower.

how wide are cross tyres typically?


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

Has anyone purchased the RM29C02 rims and can confirm that the rims are hookless? I don't think I need to go 35mm on a hardtail, plus the additional weight penalty from the 35mm. 

Plan on getting a set of hookless 29er AM rims and a set of 26 DH off them.


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## LarsF (Feb 14, 2004)

sclyde2 said:


> i am running the hookless LB rims (22mm internal width) with 35mm road tyres (schwalbes, kojak and marathon race) on my commuter. i reckon it could probably take tyres 30mm wide, or even narrower.
> 
> how wide are cross tyres typically?


Cross tires run 35 and up. What tire pressures are you running with the road tires? Also how fat of a tire can you run with the 22mm rim? I was thinking of getting the 24mm.


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## donnieboy (Jan 20, 2014)

LarsF said:


> Cross tires run 35 and up. What tire pressures are you running with the road tires? Also how fat of a tire can you run with the 22mm rim? I was thinking of getting the 24mm.


Cross tires actually run 30c and up. 30c is somewhat rarish, with 32-35c being most common. UCI requires no wider than 33c for sanctioned CX events. With 37-40c aimed at comfort or endurance riding, for example gravel/rail trails/crushed stone/washboard roads on a CX or hybrid bike.


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## donnieboy (Jan 20, 2014)

I approve of Kojaks and Marathon Racers  Race touring tire? Yep. Also the new Schwalbe One looks glorious if you dare try a faster 28c in exchange for a somewhat more rigid ride.


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

LarsF said:


> Cross tires run 35 and up. What tire pressures are you running with the road tires? Also how fat of a tire can you run with the 22mm rim? I was thinking of getting the 24mm.


60spi in the skinny road tyres. (btw, with those tyres, my rigid chinese 29er is beating me up on the road, so i am getting a suspension fork)

there's probably no strict cutoff on how wide you can go on those rims. i haven't ridden it off road yet (i think i'll get suspension first), but i put some 2.35" RaRa's on it (to see if they cleared the frame), and they looked fine on those rims.

some guys on here will say that you should go as wide as possible when selecting rims. i'd hazard a guess and say that the 22mm rim hits the sweet spot for tyres around 2.0-2.1, the 24mm for tyres around 2.2/2.25, and the wide rim for tyres wider than that. but all the rims will work with just about any tyre width. a few years ago, "wide" rims weren't much wider than 22mm (eg. flows), and people ran all sorts of wide / DH tyres on those rims.

you gotta work out what tyres you intend to use most of the time, and go from there, while weighing up the rotating mass tradeoffs too.

if you are getting them mainly for mtb tyres, and occasional CX use, maybe you should get the 24mm, if the weight penalty is not a problem for you you - what is the weight of the 24mm rims? i reckon 35mm+ tyres would work on the 24mm rims, but you probably wouldn't want to use a much narrower tyre than that on those rims.


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## rjkowski (Oct 14, 2009)

LarsF said:


> I am thinking about building a set for double duty as cross wheels. Has anyone tried these headless rims with cross or road clinchers? How narrow of a tire would work on these?


I have a set of the 27mm wide hookless rims on my cross bike. I am running Clement X'Plor MSO 32mm tires at 45 to 50 psi and they work awesome. I'm not sure how high of pressure you want to go with these rims. The Light bicycle site lists two max pressures: 40 psi and 70 psi. The ride of these wheels absolutely blows away my old Stan's Iron Cross rims, which I found too soft and noodly for my 200 lb frame.


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

donnieboy said:


> I approve of Kojaks and Marathon Racers  Race touring tire? Yep. Also the new Schwalbe One looks glorious if you dare try a faster 28c in exchange for a somewhat more rigid ride.


i'm actually thinking of going the other way.

we'll see how it goes, but i am jarring my wrists at least half a dozen times a week, and have already had a flat (marathon race rear) after not much more than a month of commuting. the potholes around here are just too much. i am used to the cush of a headshok fork and the security of a marathon plus (boat anchor but indestructible).

i am considering getting one of those fox remote forks (for the jarring). i also have a backup tyre: a 37mm marathon supreme. a bit heavier and probably a bit slower, but would probably suit my purposes better.

i don't know how the roadies do it.


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## Walt Disney's Frozen Head (Jan 9, 2008)

sclyde2 said:


> i don't know how the roadies do it.


Don't ride into potholes 

no snark intended but they/we have to pick our lines carefully. As something of an older dude, you can easily spot people who learned to ride rigid vs. full squish.


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

Walt Disney's Frozen Head said:


> Don't ride into potholes
> 
> no snark intended but they/we have to pick our lines carefully. As something of an older dude, you can easily spot people who learned to ride rigid vs. full squish.


most older dudes have the life experience to know not to assume that others have to deal with the same conditions that they do. you sure sound like you haven't ridden where i do.

it is not possible to miss potholes when:
- the roads sprout new potholes all time
- it is an inner city route (to/from quite a large cbd), through the "back roads", but still has a tonne of traffic on it at peak hour, is a very windy route, and ALL up and down, with only one flat-ish bike path section over the bridge (the rest is hilly windy city streets). you don't often have a good view of more than the next 2-3 seconds of road ahead.
- most of the route has no shoulder, so you are usually in the traffic, not next to it. for the shoulders that do exist, they often have the added risk of dooring to look out for (and door danger is given more attention than potholes), and end suddenly.
- road manners in this city are such that they surprise those who don't live here eg. if you leave a car and half length to the car in front, someone will see that as an invitation to jump in front of you, producing a culture of tail gating (interstate drivers are often seen fuming)
- just wait for the next story on a cyclist fatality (seem to be a lot lately), and the local attitude against cyclists being on the roads is seen in true colour - probably among the worst anywhere. on a day to day basis, this attitude is noted by drivers often not giving way to me and other cyclists. Perhaps this attitude is a consequence of how poor the road and cycleway infrastructure is.
- my after work commutes are in the dark, and even 700 lumens sometimes doesn't give me enough notice to check if a line change is safe before hitting a pothole.

in sum, you often can't see very far in front of you, and even when you do, your attention is not fully focused on the (poor) road surface, so you often do not have time to avoid potholes.

i'd love to always have the option to "pick a line", but i'd rather hit a pothole and jar my wrist, then suddenly change my line and get hit by a car. it must be great being able to always have enough time (and space) to safely plan and execute line changes to miss every single pothole on the road.

now i want to get a suspension fork even more - i realise that i definitely need it. i ordered one yesterday, but now the fork is on backorder. looks like time to re-commence the search.

by the way, to answer my own question, my mates with road bikes have advised me that their road bikes (top end ones) have a much better ride than i'd expect (eg, they got way more beaten up by their old flat bar commuter bikes, or "hybrids"), as the road frames are designed to be run with high pressure skinny tyres and no suspension, so have a fair bit of compliance throughout the construction. my bike (a 29er mtb) certainly was not designed to be run rigid with skinny high pressure tyres. i'm gonna fix that.


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## holyPT (Dec 15, 2013)

I started reading this and thought this was about wheels and trying to build good, stiff light ones but damn, the arguing is strong here!

Argue less ride more guys!

Peace and love.

Cheers,
J


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

nah, not arguing. just me going OT getting a bit carried away reminding myself of what i gotta look out for on the road. it has been about 10 years since i have been hit (truck running a red, very late), and i think i might be getting a bit complacent/cocky.

fork is on its way. then i'll will be able to enjoy my carbon rims with skinny high pressure tyres much better.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

My rims are done and ready to ship, not bad just over a week since I ordered. 400 and 406 grams for 32 hole 29 rims, 30mm wide hookless. I think I will go with my Hadley hubs and use Sapim Laser spokes with alloy nips. The CX-Ray are just about the same weight as Laser and for MTB drafting and wind really don't matter. Less money also, I will put the money savings into my new 11 speed XX1 XD Hadley Ti driver. Doing 2x front and rear with 29x 2.25 Mich. Wild GripR tires. Can't wait !!


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## holyPT (Dec 15, 2013)

dgw7000 said:


> My rims are done and ready to ship, not bad just over a week since I ordered. 400 and 406 grams for 32 hole 29 rims, 30mm wide hookless. I think I will go with my Hadley hubs and use Sapim Laser spokes with alloy nips. The CX-Ray are just about the same weight as Laser and for MTB drafting and wind really don't matter. Less money also, I will put the money savings into my new 11 speed XX1 XD Hadley Ti driver. Doing 2x front and rear with 29x 2.25 Mich. Wild GripR tires. Can't wait !!


Are the laser as stiff as the cx-ray?

Weight is not everything. For example, superspoke are more expensive than cx-ray and lighter but the stiffness will be crap.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

From what I have learned from people like Meltingfeathe it's the rim that determines the stiffness of a wheel, also other small factors like spoke length, hub flange size. Not the spoke !!
Weight is important to me, but so is durability. Finding that balance is the trick !! That's all I have to say about that!!


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## squareback (Sep 19, 2011)

sclyde2 said:


> most older dudes have the life experience to know not to assume that others have to deal with the same conditions that they do. you sure sound like you haven't ridden where i do.
> 
> it is not possible to miss potholes when:
> - the roads sprout new potholes all time
> ...


2 questions

What is a "cbd"?

Your story scares me. Why not drive a cage?

sent remotely


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## Projectnortheast (Mar 29, 2011)

DGW7000 is there a reason you went with the hookless vs the hooked? And how much shipped were your rims? I am thinking about ordering the same thing for my 29er. Thinking of 30mm wide hookless but don't know advantages/disadvantages of a hookless rim


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

manchvegas said:


> DGW7000 is there a reason you went with the hookless vs the hooked? And how much shipped were your rims? I am thinking about ordering the same thing for my 29er. Thinking of 30mm wide hookless but don't know advantages/disadvantages of a hookless rim


Its been discussed in this thread. Basically its lighter and stronger, cars have used it for years.

Sent from my LG-LS995 using Tapatalk


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Also simplicity to build makes for less defects in end product. ENVE now is making their rims hookless that's good enough reason for me. 390.00 total to my door.


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## Projectnortheast (Mar 29, 2011)

so what's the consensus on the 35mm rims? I know they are offering 27mm/30mm/ and 35mm options now. I built up a set of 27.5 30mm wide rims and they are great. Just wondering if it's worth the price upgrade and extra weight for the 35mm's. Has anyone got some yet?


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

manchvegas said:


> so what's the consensus on the 35mm rims? I know they are offering 27mm/30mm/ and 35mm options now. I built up a set of 27.5 30mm wide rims and they are great. Just wondering if it's worth the price upgrade and extra weight for the 35mm's. Has anyone got some yet?


35mm outer diameter? Got a set in 650B love 'em. Been rolling on 35mm AL rims for well over a year before that and loved them.

I use ~2.4" tires on them and the wide rim and wide tire work really well together. I can run low pressures and I get a very precise steering bike with the well supported sidewalls.

It never occurred to me to save a few grams to get lighter/narrower rims.


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## Projectnortheast (Mar 29, 2011)

I'm just wondering if the wider is worth it on the 29er.. it's more of an xc bike. Ibis ripley... I have a 27.5 150mm travel bike that I put the 30mm's on, and I wish I had the 35mms for but alas, they weren't available at the time. I run 2.4 Mountain king on my 27.5 bigger travel bike, and 2.4 x-kings on my 29er.. ripley doesn't have enough room in the rear for a tire any bigger really..


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

manchvegas said:


> I'm just wondering if the wider is worth it on the 29er.. it's more of an xc bike. Ibis ripley... I have a 27.5 150mm travel bike that I put the 30mm's on, and I wish I had the 35mms for but alas, they weren't available at the time. I run 2.4 Mountain king on my 27.5 bigger travel bike, and 2.4 x-kings on my 29er.. ripley doesn't have enough room in the rear for a tire any bigger really..


My thinking is that you should match up the rim width and tire width. I don't see the point of a wide rim with a normal width tire. You'll just start flattening out the profile.

If you already have 30mm rims I'd just roll with that.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

My Mich. Wild GripR 29x2.25 tire is just as wide or wider than about any 2.4 or 2.35 on the market. The Conti are way under sized for 29x2.4. My front is 2.25 is 60 mm wide, my rear is 2.1 at 55mm. This is on my i9 torch wheel set at 28mm outer and 23.4 inner.

I think 30mm wide for 29er is perfect size.


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## bktide (Oct 28, 2013)

Captain_America1976 said:


> I can't imagine this would be different no matter who you got the rim from.


This is true, reasonably.


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

squareback said:


> 2 questions
> 
> What is a "cbd"?
> 
> ...


central business district. yeah, lots of people are scared of riding the streets around here. i find it a fun challenge. riding is quicker than traffic, and parking in the city costs at least $30/day.


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## Projectnortheast (Mar 29, 2011)

ok guys, thanks for the replies.. I was leaning toward the 30mm anyway for the 29er.. Like I said, I built the 30mm for my 27.5 bike before the wider rims were available.. would've like to had the wider rims for my bigger travel bike, but oh well.


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## 10Ways2Sunday (Jun 22, 2011)

I purchased the LB 29er 30mm (they look sweet btw) and I want to run tubeless but...I'm a little confused on which width tape to use...I don't want to use Gorilla tape. The inner width is 24mm, outer 30mm. The WTB 30mm states that it's 25mm wide. Is this what you guys have used?

Thanks...


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## Projectnortheast (Mar 29, 2011)

I have used the stans wide yellow rim tape without issue on both sets of rims i have..


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## sl1_matt (Apr 12, 2009)

Sweet bike, man!


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

10Ways2Sunday said:


> I purchased the LB 29er 30mm (they look sweet btw) and I want to run tubeless but...I'm a little confused on which width tape to use...I don't want to use Gorilla tape. The inner width is 24mm, outer 30mm. The WTB 30mm states that it's 25mm wide. Is this what you guys have used?
> 
> Thanks...


You have some wiggle room... I have 24mm internal width rims and use Stan's 1" (25.4mm) tape and it works great.


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## Couloirman (Sep 17, 2010)

What's light-bicycles turnaround time these days for new rims? Whose received a set recently? When did you order?


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Couloirman said:


> What's light-bicycles turnaround time these days for new rims? Whose received a set recently? When did you order?


Put my order in on the 10th with a special request and they are shipping today.


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## Couloirman (Sep 17, 2010)

Thanks! Sounds good. Also, has the listed ERD been accurate for everyone? Wondering if I can use a spoke calculator and get all the parts here before the rims arrive or if there is ERD in accuracy and maybe I need to wait and measure myself


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## PauLCa916 (Jul 1, 2013)

Couloirman said:


> Thanks! Sounds good. Also, has the listed ERD been accurate for everyone? Wondering if I can use a spoke calculator and get all the parts here before the rims arrive or if there is ERD in accuracy and maybe I need to wait and measure myself


If I were you I would wait and play it safe.


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## tasty.dirt74 (Nov 13, 2009)

10Ways2Sunday said:


> I purchased the LB 29er 30mm (they look sweet btw) and I want to run tubeless but...I'm a little confused on which width tape to use...I don't want to use Gorilla tape. The inner width is 24mm, outer 30mm. The WTB 30mm states that it's 25mm wide. Is this what you guys have used?
> 
> Thanks...


Why don't you want to use the gorilla tape ? It is the best product to use to seal the rim .
It comes in one inch widths which would be perfect for the width of your rim .


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## Couloirman (Sep 17, 2010)

OK, so I have a set of 32 hole, 27mm wide Light-bicycle carbon rims I want to lace up. The issue is, I also have an extra set of 28 hole DT350 hubs laying around my house and it'd be nice to be able to use them to save money. Is it a bad idea to only use 28 spokes in a 32 hole rim? I was planning on using a standard 3-cross pattern and the wheelbuilding method as in Roger Musson's pdf book. 

Can I make this work? What changes in lacing pattern do I need to make to make it happen? I'm not worried about having 4 extra holes in the rim-- these will be tubeless I am sure I can just lay some rim tape on them and they will seal right up, although I guess things could get inside the rim from the 4 exposed holes on the outside unless I superglue some nipples in there. These will be used with 35mm cross tires as a gravel grinder wheelset.

Any ideas? Or do I just suck it up and either buy a set of 32 hole Hadleys, or the cheaper option of a new set of 28 hole rims from light bike and sell these?


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

Couloirman said:


> OK, so I have a set of 32 hole, 27mm wide Light-bicycle carbon rims I want to lace up. The issue is, I also have an extra set of 28 hole DT350 hubs laying around my house and it'd be nice to be able to use them to save money. Is it a bad idea to only use 28 spokes in a 32 hole rim? I was planning on using a standard 3-cross pattern and the wheelbuilding method as in Roger Musson's pdf book.
> 
> Can I make this work? What changes in lacing pattern do I need to make to make it happen? I'm not worried about having 4 extra holes in the rim-- these will be tubeless I am sure I can just lay some rim tape on them and they will seal right up, although I guess things could get inside the rim from the 4 exposed holes on the outside unless I superglue some nipples in there. These will be used with 35mm cross tires as a gravel grinder wheelset.
> 
> Any ideas? Or do I just suck it up and either buy a set of 32 hole Hadleys, or the cheaper option of a new set of 28 hole rims from light bike and sell these?


short answer: forget it. 100% do not do 28 spokes on a 32 hole wheel.

long answer: everyone else can answer this one


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## Couloirman (Sep 17, 2010)

OK cool, Ill order some new rims. no biggie. Just making sure


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

it just crossed my mind: even if it wasn't a completely wrong thing to do, how HARD would it be to get the spoke lengths right for such a build?


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## squareback (Sep 19, 2011)

sclyde2 said:


> it just crossed my mind: even if it wasn't a completely wrong thing to do, how HARD would it be to get the spoke lengths right for such a build?


If you took trig in eighth grade, its a piece of cake.

(I didn't BTW)


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## ScottyJ7 (Dec 18, 2011)

edited...


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

ScottyJ7 said:


> I say get some decent rims from a reputable manufacturer. My health is worth a lot more than some cheap carbon rim. Look at Stan's Race Gold wheels which weigh 1350grams ....
> 
> My wife rides them and they are so light. I actually have another pair I am trying to sell. Weight limit is 170lbs for the Race Golds.
> 
> Here is a picture of the ones I am selling. Selling what you see there for $600+ shipping otherwise can sell just the wheels for $500.


how could this be any more spammy? have you paid for an ad on mtbr? if not, you should check the forum rules, as someone is bound to report this.

and on a thread that is clearly about chinese wheels, you are telling people that they shouldn't get them, for no reason related to personal experience of them.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Agree, get a grip dude and go away!!


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## ScottyJ7 (Dec 18, 2011)

sclyde2 said:


> how could this be any more spammy? have you paid for an ad on mtbr? if not, you should check the forum rules, as someone is bound to report this.
> 
> and on a thread that is clearly about chinese wheels, you are telling people that they shouldn't get them, for no reason related to personal experience of them.


Yes I have paid for an ad here ...i guess I will go away...carry on my bad...


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

sclyde2 said:


> how could this be any more spammy? have you paid for an ad on mtbr? if not, you should check the forum rules, as someone is bound to report this.
> 
> and on a thread that is clearly about chinese wheels, you are telling people that they shouldn't get them, for no reason related to personal experience of them.


Funny thing is, he compares 1300g 170lb weight limit wheels to 1500g 200lb limit wheels, which are going to be much stiffer also.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Built up these LB rims about a week ago, 90mm carbon 

Oh, and I wouldn't exactly consider Stan's a "reputable" rim company. DT or Mavic maybe, but Stan's sacrifices too much by simply using less metal IMO on many of their rims.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

which light bicycle 29er wheelset would be stiff enough for a 175 lbs rider? the xc? also, does the Hope pro 2 evo 40T hub they use come ready for a 11 speed cassette?


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Gabe3 said:


> which light bicycle 29er wheelset would be stiff enough for a 175 lbs rider? the xc? also, does the Hope pro 2 evo 40T hub they use come ready for a 11 speed cassette?


Depends... 11spd road? No. 11spd XX1/X01/X1? No. 11spd XTR? Yes.

That's my understanding anyway. The only reason XTR is yes is because that cassette works on 10spd hubs.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

Alias530 said:


> Depends... 11spd road? No. 11spd XX1/X01/X1? No. 11spd XTR? Yes.
> 
> That's my understanding anyway. The only reason XTR is yes is because that cassette works on 10spd hubs.


hm, ok thanks. it would be for 11 speed xx1 mtb most likely. what about these?: Hookless 30mm Width 29er Carbon Mountain Wheelset Tubeless Compatible Am DH | eBay

i think they would work. in the description it asks what your going to use. they are heavier than the light bicycle xc wheels though. do you think those rims are made by light bicycle or someone else?


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## KonaSS (Sep 29, 2004)

I don't think an 11 speed road freehub is standard on the Pro 2 EVO hub, but you can buy them.

From the Hope site:

All Pro 2 EVO 40t hubs and mountain bike wheels using these hubs are fitted with standard 10 speed cassette compatible bodies, but an 11 speed body can be installed without issues.
All pre Pro 2 EVO 40t mtb hubs and wheels fitted with these hubs are not compatible with 11 speed cassette bodies.

11 Speed Compatibility? | Hope Tech | Made in Barnoldswick, England


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Gabe3 said:


> hm, ok thanks. it would be for 11 speed xx1 mtb most likely. what about these?: Hookless 30mm Width 29er Carbon Mountain Wheelset Tubeless Compatible Am DH | eBay
> 
> i think they would work. in the description it asks what your going to use. they are heavier than the light bicycle xc wheels though. do you think those rims are made by light bicycle or someone else?


I would ask the seller. I'm warry of a mountain bike wheelsset that says its Shimano and SRAM 11spd compatible. SRAM uses a proprietary special hub for their 11spd cassettes


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Alias530 said:


> I would ask the seller. I'm warry of a mountain bike wheelsset that says its Shimano and SRAM 11spd compatible. SRAM uses a proprietary special hub for their 11spd cassettes


Huh? Every one of my wheel sets is both Shimano and SRAM 11s compatible.

I pull off the free hub, put a different one on. It takes 10 seconds, if that.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Le Duke said:


> Huh? Every one of my wheel sets is both Shimano and SRAM 11s compatible.
> 
> I pull off the free hub, put a different one on. It takes 10 seconds, if that.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


"11spd compatible" and "11spd compatible IF you buy $100+ separately sold freehub" is the distinction I guess.

Buying a part that costs half or more what the hub does in most cases is worse than buying a hub that comes with the right freehub to begin with. I could be wrong but I took his question as asking whether it would work right out of the box, no additional parts necessary.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Well, I suppose that is the great thing about DT 240 hubs. Buy an XD equipped hub, and then a 10s freehub for $30 on eBay.


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## Guest (Dec 21, 2014)

...


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

do you guys think the xc wheelset will be flexy for 175 lbs rider?


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Gabe3 said:


> do you guys think the xc wheelset will be flexy for 175 lbs rider?


I hope not... I'm 240 and just ordered XC rims for my cross bike. I got the "all mountain" layup of the XC dimension rim for ~30gr extra carbon though


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

Alias530 said:


> I hope not... I'm 240 and just ordered XC rims for my cross bike. I got the "all mountain" layup of the XC dimension rim for ~30gr extra carbon though


ahh. why not get the AM set?

the xc wheelset should be stiffer than a ztr crest wheelset right?


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Gabe3 said:


> ahh. why not get the AM set?
> 
> the xc wheelset should be stiffer than a ztr crest wheelset right?


Width. Will be using only 35mm wide tires. Wanted the narrower XC profile

Ya I can't imagine they'd be any worse than a crest


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

They will definitely be stiffer than the Crest, with the extra 30g layup should work out real nice for your cross bike and still be fairly light.


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

I have the XC rims, 27mm external and 22mm internal-- they are WAAAAY stiffer/better than crests. I weigh 175lbs all kitted up. I beat these up and they come back for more. 

The crests are horrible wet noodles compared to these rims. Hell, these 22mm internal xc carbon rims are quite stiffer than the wtb kom i23 rims I also have.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

dgw7000 said:


> They will definitely be stiffer than the Crest, with the extra 30g layup should work out real nice for your cross bike and still be fairly light.


I hope so... I'm finding it hard to get a consensus of how beefy I need to go.

There's guys who ride like hacks and break spokes on 36 hole wheels built for downhill when they only ride XC and there's guys who ride the perfect line and can ride wheels meant for riders way lighter than themselves. This is my first custom build so I don't really know what to expect. And I only ever really ride solo or my fiancee so I can't compare how I ride except to Strava leaderboards.


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## dimitrin (Nov 23, 2008)

*Light Bicycle, Carbon Bicycle or Nextie...?*

Any opinions if any of these options is better or worse than the others and why?

I blew up a rear Easton Carbon hoop. Now I can build a set using a hub (Stealth) I have always been interested in, but never had a justified reason for trying.
Familiarizing myself with all of the rim choices was a learning curve!
So many options, but it looks like this option from Nextie what I am leaning towards 
View attachment 949496


Looking for people that have had previous experience with their products.

x post from wheel and tire thread. Seems to be ALOT of folks here with firsthand experience.

Thanks.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

Alias530 said:


> I would ask the seller. I'm warry of a mountain bike wheelsset that says its Shimano and SRAM 11spd compatible. SRAM uses a proprietary special hub for their 11spd cassettes


i talked to light bicycle on skype. they put on whatever freehub you want, 11 speed sram or shimano. and it doesn't cost extra.


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## UkRich (Jan 12, 2015)

I have a set of Chinese 27mm carbon rims from xmiplay which I have built up with AM hubs and DT Rev spokes. Came in at 1400g for the pair and are way stiffer/lighter than the Hope/Crest wheels they replace. 

I personally don't think buying direct from China is anything to be worried about. Quality is spot on IMO. I have an IP-057 29er frame from the same shop at that is also fine.


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## NazZaR (Jul 1, 2013)

Hello folks. Sorry for not using search button, but i am looking for answer to a question about chinese carbon rims - are they durable and safe enough? How is the experience overall? Is there any problems that anyone bumped into? Any breaks, crashes?

One local racer has broken 6 rims, and he says that he was careful enough...


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

NazZaR said:


> Hello folks. Sorry for not using search button, but i am looking for answer to a question about chinese carbon rims - are they durable and safe enough? How is the experience overall? Is there any problems that anyone bumped into? Any breaks, crashes?
> 
> One local racer has broken 6 rims, and he says that he was careful enough...


http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/cheap-chinese-carbon-rims-673410.html


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

NazZaR said:


> Sorry for not using search button,


I call BS :arf:


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

NazZaR said:


> Hello folks. Sorry for not using search button, but i am looking for answer to a question about chinese carbon rims - are they durable and safe enough? How is the experience overall? Is there any problems that anyone bumped into? Any breaks, crashes?
> 
> One local racer has broken 6 rims, and he says that he was careful enough...


Have you tried the seach button yet?


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

NazZaR said:


> Hello folks. Sorry for not using search button, but i am looking for answer to a question about chinese carbon rims - are they durable and safe enough? How is the experience overall? Is there any problems that anyone bumped into? Any breaks, crashes?
> 
> One local racer has broken 6 rims, and he says that he was careful enough...


I have the fat bike ones, they are great. No rim works when you don't run enough pressure. The trend over the last 5-10 years has been to go lower and lower with the pressure, past where a tube would pinch and now past the point of rim damage.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

I went with the new LB 38mm rims. Figured 30g was a small price to pay for what looks like a more impact and burp resistant rim. Asked for angled spoke holes. 

I'm going to lace them up myself for my first ever wheel build (under close expert supervision of course). 

Still would love to see some built up if anyone gets their's done before me.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I think I'm going with the 38mm 29er rims also, Sapim CX Ray spokes, Lilly Percision nipples and Onyx Racing hubs, they use a sprag drive with infinite engagement. Almost no drag and totally silent, but at 460g for the rear hub not light!! 
I would love to see some picts also of the new 38mm rims!!


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

rfxc said:


> I have the XC rims, 27mm external and 22mm internal-- they are WAAAAY stiffer/better than crests. I weigh 175lbs all kitted up. I beat these up and they come back for more.
> 
> The crests are horrible wet noodles compared to these rims. Hell, these 22mm internal xc carbon rims are quite stiffer than the wtb kom i23 rims I also have.


What kind of spokes you got? And also, 32 spokes?

I'm considering an aggressive build with with DT Revo's or LB's in house Pillar bladed spokes and possibly 28 hole. I weight ~170lbs ready to ride.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

Any reports about the 38mm? I'd love to know how easy they setup tubeless?


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## Ladmo (Jan 11, 2013)

SS Hack said:


> Any reports about the 38mm? I'd love to know how easy they setup tubeless?


Mine shipped and should be to me by next week. Not sure how fast I'll get them built up, but I'll post back when done.


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## Afrobiker (Dec 19, 2010)

Any body get stuck with a duty/customs tax? If so how much did it end up being?


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

Afrobiker said:


> Any body get stuck with a duty/customs tax? If so how much did it end up being?


That depends on where you live.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Afrobiker said:


> Any body get stuck with a duty/customs tax? If so how much did it end up being?


My LB rims were delivered to my door from China with zero tax or duties. I live in BC Canada.


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## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

Anyone got the 50mm yet?


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## Ladmo (Jan 11, 2013)

Received my rims today. Bought the 38 external, 31.6 internal in DH form. They were shipped and arrived at my home within the time frames Light Bicycle quoted. I'll give them a much closer examination prior to building them, but for now they look good. Here are a couple pictures.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Ladmo said:


> Received my rims today. Bought the 38 external, 31.6 internal in DH form. They were shipped and arrived at my home within the time frames Light Bicycle quoted. I'll give them a much closer examination prior to building them, but for now they look good. Here are a couple pictures.
> 
> Thanks for the pics. I ordered my 38mm's 10 days ago. Can't wait for them to show up.


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## mpwolcott (May 1, 2009)

SS Hack said:


> Anyone got the 50mm yet?


Ordered a set of 50mm yesterday. Delivery quoted for Feb 10-17.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

*38mm complete build?*

I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a complete wheelset from LB and wanted to hear your opinion / experience if my ~$1000 bucks are better utilized differently in terms of price/performance/reliability (i.e. ordering just the rims, sourcing equivalent components myself and doing a pro or homebuild).

Here's the details of the build:
Rim: RM29C14 - All Mountain
Finish:matte 3K
Holes:Front 32H/Rear 32H
Spokeillar Aero X-TRA 1420
Hub: Hope 40T PRO 2 EVO 15mm/12*142mm

Thanks in advance for your input.

Note: I'm x-posting to a few of the related LB / chinese rims threads that I sub to, so I apologize if you see this in a few places.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I would definitely have a pro do it rather than LB. DT Swiss 350 hubs or Hope, Sapim Laser spokes with Alloy nips for under 1000 bucks. That's with a pro building the wheels. The overall quality and parts selection will be better than having LB do it!!


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## mpwolcott (May 1, 2009)

fefillo said:


> I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a complete wheelset from LB and wanted to hear your opinion / experience if my ~$1000 bucks are better utilized differently in terms of price/performance/reliability (i.e. ordering just the rims, sourcing equivalent components myself and doing a pro or homebuild).
> 
> Here's the details of the build:
> Rim: RM29C14 - All Mountain
> ...


I looked into a similar option but opted to purchase my rims from LB and have the wheels built locally. My pricing came out to be similar and this option alleviated some of my hesitation.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

fefillo said:


> I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a complete wheelset from LB and wanted to hear your opinion / experience if my ~$1000 bucks are better utilized differently in terms of price/performance/reliability (i.e. ordering just the rims, sourcing equivalent components myself and doing a pro or homebuild).
> 
> Here's the details of the build:
> Rim: RM29C14 - All Mountain
> ...


Get them built by someone that knows what they are doing, the little extra you spend will be worth it in the long run.


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## Ladmo (Jan 11, 2013)

Got my 38 ext, 31.6 int built up yesterday. Trued up without issue, mounted up tubeless no problem. Went for a ride in the afternoon. Bike has never ridden better.


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

Has anyone measured the ERD themselves? Is it different from what LB states? I just built up a set of these in 650B and they are insane. Everything is better with them. I can't remember if the ERD was different though.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

spunkmtb said:


> Has anyone measured the ERD themselves? Is it different from what LB states? I just built up a set of these in 650B and they are insane. Everything is better with them. I can't remember if the ERD was different though.


You can't remember if you measured or not? Or you did measure but can't remember whether it was different or not?

Did you buy spokes before or after having the rims?

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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

I can't remember if it was different or not. i drove out to wheel world and measured it there and purchased the spokes there as well. I can ask them the spoke size I purchased but I don't know if they kept the ERD. They might have though. I will call them tomorrow and let y'all know.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

spunkmtb said:


> ...i drove out to wheel world.../QUOTE]
> 
> What is wheel world? Sounds like a magical place!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

The rices aren't magical but the supply that they have in stock is insane. Wheel World Bike Shop - Bike Shops in Culver City and Woodland Hills, Greater Los Angeles Area - Shimano, Fox, Maxxis, Mavic, Giant, Kona, Specialized - Road Bikes, Mountain Bikes, Beach Cruisers Also they still sell a good old fashioned $12-ish t-shirt


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## doralswheels (Jan 14, 2007)

spunkmtb said:


> Has anyone measured the ERD themselves? Is it different from what LB states? I just built up a set of these in 650B and they are insane. Everything is better with them. I can't remember if the ERD was different though.


Yes, I measured my rims and the ERD was 2mm's shorter than what they said it is. I thought they must know more about the ERD than I do, so I built the wheels per their ERD. After finishing both wheels, the spokes were about 2mm to long and that is the good news. The bad news was that I used DT Swiss Aerolite spokes at about $2.75 each. I didn't want to replace the spokes with the correct length, so looking around I found some spoke nipple cups that set inside the rim and then the nipple sets inside it. The spacing was about 1mm, so I used 2 cups on each nipple. This would also distrubte the spoke load farther around the spoke hole. I promise I will never disbelieve myself again. Anyway, once completed, the wheels seam a lot stiffer than some of my other wheels. I am planning on anther build with Light-bicycle rims.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

doralswheels said:


> Yes, I measured my rims and the ERD was 2mm's shorter than what they said it is.


Doral, which rim was it?
I got a 38mm LB rim and spokes (calculated from the listed ERD) coming in from China, so this worries me a bit. Hopefully, if off, it's a smaller ERD and not bigger.

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## doralswheels (Jan 14, 2007)

fefillo. What length spokes did they say they were sending you? What hubs are you going to use and what is the listed ERD for your new rims?


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Doral,

I did my own calcs and ordered, I did not tell them to send me whatever they use.

I used ERD=574 (29er 38mm LB rim). Lacing to Hope hubs, 3x, 32h. Came up with 276/278 in the front and 278/278 in the back.



















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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Has anyone weighed the rims? Are they as specified?


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

I know from past experiences with their rims I also have to order 1mm shorter spokes from what the spoke calculators say


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

fefillo said:


> You can't remember if you measured or not? Or you did measure but can't remember whether it was different or not?
> 
> Did you buy spokes before or after having the rims?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ugh, so here is something interesting. I called wheel world and when I brought the rim in the LB listed ERD was 537. WW measured 535. I lust went to the LB website and they have since changed the ERD to the correct number. Again this is for the 650B rim.

My question now for you guy's is which ERD do we go by? @doralswheels Do you recall what ERD you went by when you looked up the LB ERD? I don't know to trust the LB website now or go by what you measured? Are they 1 & the same?

Thanks,
Lucas


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

NazZaR said:


> Hello folks. Sorry for not using search button, but i am looking for answer to a question about chinese carbon rims - are they durable and safe enough? How is the experience overall? Is there any problems that anyone bumped into? Any breaks, crashes?
> 
> One local racer has broken 6 rims, and he says that he was careful enough...


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

pimpbot said:


> View attachment 961907


Pimpbot, it took you 5 weeks to find that picture or what?

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## doralswheels (Jan 14, 2007)

spunkmtb said:


> Ugh, so here is something interesting. I called wheel world and when I brought the rim in the LB listed ERD was 537. WW measured 535. I lust went to the LB website and they have since changed the ERD to the correct number. Again this is for the 650B rim.
> 
> My question now for you guy's is which ERD do we go by? @doralswheels Do you recall what ERD you went by when you looked up the LB ERD? I don't know to trust the LB website now or go by what you measured? Are they 1 & the same?
> 
> ...


The sum of my coment is "DON'T GO BY ANYBODY ELSES MESURMENTS". You can take both rims to a bike shop and ask for their best wheel builder and have him measure the ERD. Then go to the DT Swiss web site and use their spoke calculator. That's what I should have done.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Just pull down the pdf in the 1st post. SUPER easy!

http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/how-calculate-rim-erd-809157.html


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

That is great post. However hoping to get someone's actual measurement as I am placing a part's order this week and want to order my spokes and get them in that order. instead of having to pay for extra shipping on spokes at a later time.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

spunkmtb said:


> That is great post. However hoping to get someone's actual measurement as I am placing a part's order this week and want to order my spokes and get them in that order. instead of having to pay for extra shipping on spokes at a later time.


I can see that. But I like DTs and just get them elsewhere.
Found this: Spoke, Spokes @ eBikeStop.com - The online supplier for all your cycling needs...


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## J273 (Apr 12, 2009)

Ladmo said:


> Got my 38 ext, 31.6 int built up yesterday. Trued up without issue, mounted up tubeless no problem. Went for a ride in the afternoon. Bike has never ridden better.


Do you have any pics on the bike?

Thanks


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## Andy17 (Sep 18, 2011)

Is anybody have issues with tire on their 35mm rims? I ask because I have had 3 punctures on the front and 2 on the rear. Makes me wonder if the sideway sticks out more and gets hit more. I am running WTB Weirwolf 2.3s with a 120 tpi sidewall. I love the traction but flats are getting old. I have been running bronsons for a few years with very few flats. 5 flats on these rims in 9 months on the weirwolfs I guess it could be a coincidence but makes me wonder. 
As far as the rims go they are really tough no issues at all. I have a lot of small scratches but they are holding up great and ride great.


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

Andy17 said:


> Is anybody have issues with tire on their 35mm rims? I ask because I have had 3 punctures on the front and 2 on the rear. Makes me wonder if the sideway sticks out more and gets hit more. I am running WTB Weirwolf 2.3s with a 120 tpi sidewall. I love the traction but flats are getting old. I have been running bronsons for a few years with very few flats. 5 flats on these rims in 9 months on the weirwolfs I guess it could be a coincidence but makes me wonder.
> As far as the rims go they are really tough no issues at all. I have a lot of small scratches but they are holding up great and ride great.


SIlly question but it makes me wonder. Are you running tubes still?


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## Andy17 (Sep 18, 2011)

Nope but I did leave out that important detail. I'm close to 200 ready to ride and run around 22-25 psi. I like the tire really good but starting to think I got bad luck or something.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Andy17 said:


> Nope but I did leave out that important detail. I'm close to 200 ready to ride and run around 22-25 psi. I like the tire really good but starting to think I got bad luck or something.


You are still not very clear. You ARE running tubeless? And these punctures you are experiencing are tire side wall tears?

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## Andy17 (Sep 18, 2011)

"Nope" meaning NO.... no tubes using stans.... some holes and one tear. most seal up 2 have not still running on one with a patch and stans


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Andy17 said:


> "Nope" meaning NO.... no tubes using stans.... some holes and one tear. most seal up 2 have not still running on one with a patch and stans


More details on how the punctures happened? You say nothing about the trails or what you were doing. Did they get sliced by rocks? Did you land on something? Thorns?

I've never had a tubeless setup tire puncture in ~3yrs... Only tears.

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## Andy17 (Sep 18, 2011)

I just broke it down wasn't going to seal. Looks like it got cut about a 1/4 long but would not seal and stay with pressure and riding in driveway. I live in the north Georgia mountains and it is rocky on some trails. Yesterdays cut and puncture was a rock strike on the last down hill fire road. We were up at the Ocoee and Chilhowie and I have had flats up there too. The wheel tire combo before these I only had one flat in a year. You kind of expect some with sharp rocks and roots. I have only had one with a slice like this before but with the same tire wheel as this last one which is wtb weirwolf 120tpi and 35mm outside light-bicycles. 
I have had very few flats before this wheel tire combo and it may not have anything to do with the tire or wheel just conditions.


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## Ladmo (Jan 11, 2013)

J273 said:


> Do you have any pics on the bike?
> 
> Thanks


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## yogidave (Aug 9, 2006)

In my limited experience, WTB tires aren't (may not be?) as durable as Maxxis, for instance, when run tubeless.

I destroyed a WTB Vigilante TCS on something that a Maxxis High Roller scoffs at. I liked the tread, grip and weight, but when the tire fails under normal aggressive all-mountain riding (per intended use), it speaks to durability.

Maybe you need more sealant? What's the failure mode you are experiencing when you say "flats"?

I don't work for or have any ties to any gear company, just my opinion.


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## jlian (Mar 3, 2008)

fefillo said:


> Doral,
> 
> I did my own calcs and ordered, I did not tell them to send me whatever they use.
> 
> I used ERD=574 (29er 38mm LB rim). Lacing to Hope hubs, 3x, 32h. Came up with 276/278 in the front and 278/278 in the back.


I ordered the same 29er 38mm rims (AM version) from its first production batch. Measured ERD for both rims is 574, same as LB quoted number on its web page. Nancy gave ERD=275 before its production run, so they do seem to put out corrected number on the web page.

For a set of King hubs in 3x 32h, I calculated spokes to be 276/278 both front & rear. Have not gotten around to build the wheels yet.


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## rcb78 (Dec 5, 2010)

Not much luck searching, but has anyone used the hookless rim on a cyclocross build and run road tires in the off season? Have you encountered a max safe pressure? I'm looking at the hookless 25mm wide x 38mm depth U style rim for a new CX build. I really want tubeless for the race season, but in the summer I enjoy throwing on a set 27c pave tires and exploring the old mountain roads. I'd need to be able to hit 100psi safely to do that. Possible?


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

27mm tires at 100psi?

What do you run 23s at? 140?

You'll be bouncing off of everything, with no control. 


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## rcb78 (Dec 5, 2010)

So you don't know then?

FWIW, I don't run 23s, I weigh 210lbs that would just be pointless. But since you have no idea who I am, well that's what the internet if for isn't it?

I run the paves at 90 rear and 80 front, lower and I they squirm when I bury them into a turn while descending. But if they don't have a 10psi margin of error, then these aren't for me... seriously, do you need the whole story to respond with a constructive answer or are we just adding to the post count?


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## jonw9 (Jun 29, 2009)

rcb78 said:


> Not much luck searching, but has anyone used the hookless rim on a cyclocross build and run road tires in the off season? Have you encountered a max safe pressure? I'm looking at the hookless 25mm wide x 38mm depth U style rim for a new CX build. I really want tubeless for the race season, but in the summer I enjoy throwing on a set 27c pave tires and exploring the old mountain roads. I'd need to be able to hit 100psi safely to do that. Possible?


Light Bike lists a 70 psi max, so I think that you would be on your own going over that. They probably have a margin of error, but why push it?


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

rcb78 said:


> ...do you need the whole story to respond with a constructive answer or are we just adding to the post count?


Yes, that's the least you can do if you expect some stranger that knows nothing about you and your situation to help you with some, hopefully, constructive advice. Else... You are the one just adding to the post count.

Yeeshh!

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## Cymona078 (Feb 14, 2015)

Find products on this site at high quality and reasonable price,anyone got some here light carbon bicycle wheels,Frames,Forks,Seatposts,Custom Wheelsets


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## mpwolcott (May 1, 2009)

The set of 50mm rims I ordered arrived today, Feb 19. I ordered off the EBay site after communicating directly with Light Bicycles. Look like a quality build. I'll take some more detailed measurements in work tomorrow but here a few pics of the rims as received.


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## mtnfiend (Feb 26, 2004)

rcb78 said:


> So you don't know then?
> 
> FWIW, I don't run 23s, I weigh 210lbs that would just be pointless. But since you have no idea who I am, well that's what the internet if for isn't it?
> 
> I run the paves at 90 rear and 80 front, lower and I they squirm when I bury them into a turn while descending. But if they don't have a 10psi margin of error, then these aren't for me... seriously, do you need the whole story to respond with a constructive answer or are we just adding to the post count?


A bit off topic for a rim thread on a mountain bike site I know but I agree that the psi seems rather high for a 27mm tire. Nothing wrong I guess just not ideal. Have you read Jan Heine's reports on wife tires and low tire pressure in Bicycle Quarterly? Might be worth a read.

Here's a good example: https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/02/17/tire-pressure-data-and-details/


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Is anyone's tension going WAY down when you mount a tire?

I built mine up at 150kgf on the drive side and it drops all the way down to 95kgf with a tire on.

I have the 27mm 29er XC model in the "all mountain" layup with DT Comp spokes.


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## sclyde2 (Mar 21, 2004)

Alias530 said:


> Is anyone's tension going WAY down when you mount a tire?
> 
> I built mine up at 150kgf on the drive side and it drops all the way down to 95kgf with a tire on.
> 
> I have the 27mm 29er XC model in the "all mountain" layup with DT Comp spokes.


yes it happens.

what tyres are you using? schwalbes are known to be quite tight, and tend to drop the tension. especially if you use tubeless (UST) schwalbes. do a search of schwalbe + notubes rims, where people had issues with their stans rims losing tension with schwalbe tyres.

i found the same thing with my carbon rims (27mm LB rims, the ~360g ones). the advantage of these rims is that you can put a lot more tension in them. i ended up just putting in a lot more tension to start with. if you end up with only 95 on the drive side, your non drive side might be a little low, so you might have to go higher.

55 is a bigger drop than what i saw though (mine was closer to 30 drop). are they brand new schwalbe UST tyres that you are using?


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

sclyde2 said:


> yes it happens.
> 
> what tyres are you using? schwalbes are known to be quite tight, and tend to drop the tension. especially if you use tubeless (UST) schwalbes. do a search of schwalbe + notubes rims, where people had issues with their stans rims losing tension with schwalbe tyres.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply.

This is for my cyclocross bike so I'm using tight, albeit light/weenie 35mm tires (WTB Cross Boss). The tires weigh less than the rim does. My rim, with the extra carbon layup, is about 410g.

Without the tire my drive side tension is nearing the 180kgf max. I'm getting mixed answers as to whether "recommended tension" is with or without a tire. Assuming it's WITH a tire, I'm going to have to go above the listed max tension to get to the recommended tension with a tire. Kind of concerned that when I go to change a tire or I get a blowout or something, the change in tension could crack the rim.

Ahhh, what do I do?


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## SeabeeTom (Aug 31, 2012)

mtnfiend said:


> A bit off topic for a rim thread on a mountain bike site I know but I agree that the psi seems rather high for a 27mm tire. Nothing wrong I guess just not ideal. Have you read Jan Heine's reports on wife tires and low tire pressure in Bicycle Quarterly? Might be worth a read.
> 
> Here's a good example: https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/02/17/tire-pressure-data-and-details/


That's an interesting article..


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Anyone give feedback on LB 38mm 29er rims, how they compare to your other rims?
Do you feel the weight of such a wide rim, are people running small 2.1 tires with good results. How low tire pressure are you using? Any input would be great, thanks!


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

dgw7000 said:


> Anyone give feedback on LB 38mm 29er rims, how they compare to your other rims?
> Do you feel the weight of such a wide rim, are people running small 2.1 tires with good results. How low tire pressure are you using? Any input would be great, thanks!


There's a dedicated LB 38mm post out there in the wheels forum, you search for it.

I got a set. Today got to do the first proper run on them. Lots of loose rocks on top of bigger rocks, drops and rocky climbs. I'm ~175-lbs ready to ride, running 2.1" @ 20-psi rear, 2.3" @ 17-psi. Plenty of traction and even a bit of extra cushion.

I'm coming from a stock set of wheels, so I lost like 1-lb even with these wider rims, so I'm plenty happy.

I have not being able to do any fast cornering rides yet, but suspect I may need a little more pressure to feel comfortable.

Let me know if you have any specific questions.

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## party_wagon (Oct 10, 2008)

A high end set of hubs with some stans will give you the quality you desire. If your on a budget low quality parts may break and send you spending what you didn't want to spend.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

party_wagon said:


> A high end set of hubs with some stans will give you the quality you desire. If your on a budget low quality parts may break and send you spending what you didn't want to spend.


I have no idea what your talking about!!


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## party_wagon (Oct 10, 2008)

If your on a budget I would run a narrower alloy rear and invest in a high quality wide front. You typically run a narrower tire in the rear anyways. Maybe a stans rapid rear and a top shelf carbon up front.


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

*Anyone mount GEAX TNT tires on these rims?*

I have the 29er AM version w/ the Bonty rim strips. 
(24mm inner dia / 30mm outer dia)

I've read the GEAX TNT tires are *really* tight on some rims.
Like, impossible to get on / off.

Anyone successfully mount a TNT tire to a Light-Bicycle 29" rim?

thanks.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Anyone bought a single wheel from L-B? Considering buying just a 35mm front from them. Wondering about overall cost. 


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

I'm interested in this as well. Would love to pick up just a front wheel but do they build with any hubs that are convertible between QR and 15mm?


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

I'm pretty much thinking the best route is to buy the LB rim you want, buy the hub you want, then ship them to a builder. The question is who? I'd like someone who is very experienced at building up wheels with LB rims. Who could that be?


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## stinkyto (Feb 17, 2010)

So I am on the Verge of changing over to an XX1 system and I am going to use a set a wheels from LB as an upgrade from Stock. I am thinking the 30mm wide 24mm internal. on a Rocky Instinct 970, used mostly for trail riding with a little aggression. 
So the question I have is....
Is it really worth, both in dollars and weight, to upgrade to the Hope hub option? I am not debating the quality of the Hope hubs, just the dollar per gram per performance per durability over the Novatech option.
I believe it goes from 828USD or so for Hopes to 568USD for novatech. of course the problem is the CAD dollar is at around 75cent/$1 USD.
Sure could use some advice on this one.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

zephxiii said:


> I'm pretty much thinking the best route is to buy the LB rim you want, buy the hub you want, then ship them to a builder. The question is who? I'd like someone who is very experienced at building up wheels with LB rims. Who could that be?


Mike at Lacemy29. On the 4th wheelset from him. So far haven't had to touch any of them.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

stinkyto said:


> So I am on the Verge of changing over to an XX1 system and I am going to use a set a wheels from LB as an upgrade from Stock. I am thinking the 30mm wide 24mm internal. on a Rocky Instinct 970, used mostly for trail riding with a little aggression.
> So the question I have is....
> Is it really worth, both in dollars and weight, to upgrade to the Hope hub option? I am not debating the quality of the Hope hubs, just the dollar per gram per performance per durability over the Novatech option.
> I believe it goes from 828USD or so for Hopes to 568USD for novatech. of course the problem is the CAD dollar is at around 75cent/$1 USD.
> Sure could use some advice on this one.


See the post above yours.


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## stinkyto (Feb 17, 2010)

TwoTone said:


> See the post above yours.


Easier said then done I am afraid. Small town, limited access to a wheel builder and oversized shipping is expensive in Canada. If I could one stop shop and ship that would be a lot better.

I guess my real concern is will the nova tech stand up to the abuse a 42tooth causes on the system.


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## dusadus (May 21, 2014)

Just ordered a 30mm w/ hope hubs off of ebay from light bicycle. I know many had recommended going with a custom builder but i decided to take the "gamble" and order the entire wheelset directly from LB for convenience and some cost savings. This is my first major upgrade and I'm crossing my fingers that I won't be disappointed.

What do you all recommend I check as soon as I receive them?


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## stinkyto (Feb 17, 2010)

dusadus said:


> Just ordered a 30mm w/ hope hubs off of ebay from light bicycle. I know many had recommended going with a custom builder but i decided to take the "gamble" and order the entire wheelset directly from LB for convenience and some cost savings. This is my first major upgrade and I'm crossing my fingers that I won't be disappointed.
> 
> What do you all recommend I check as soon as I receive them?


Spoke Tension may be the popular answer.
I ordered a set of U45 wheels for my Venge with novatech hubs and pillar spokes. The weight was exactly what they quoted the wheels were round no high and low spots) and true. they have a few thousand Km on them now. Mine were/are fine.
That is why I am trying to do another set with them. I just need to know if the Novatech hub is up for the abuse of an xd driver and a 42 tooth cog.
how did you find them through Ebay?
I ordered direct from "Nancy" on the website.


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## karlmaddock (Mar 21, 2015)

Hiya all, what wheels would you recommend for a trek mamba 29re mostly gravel trailway riding, thanks


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## dusadus (May 21, 2014)

stinkyto said:


> Spoke Tension may be the popular answer.
> I ordered a set of U45 wheels for my Venge with novatech hubs and pillar spokes. The weight was exactly what they quoted the wheels were round no high and low spots) and true. they have a few thousand Km on them now. Mine were/are fine.
> That is why I am trying to do another set with them. I just need to know if the Novatech hub is up for the abuse of an xd driver and a 42 tooth cog.
> how did you find them through Ebay?
> I ordered direct from "Nancy" on the website.


I've been researching on these wheels for a while now and saw in threads that people have purchased on ebay to save some customs fees. Occasionally, seemingly randomly, LB posts rim only and complete wheelsets on Ebay. Interestingly I also seem to only see their 30mm wide rims on ebay as opposed to their website which lists 27mm and 38mm.


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## elsinore (Jun 10, 2005)

stinkyto said:


> Spoke Tension may be the popular answer.
> I ordered a set of U45 wheels for my Venge with novatech hubs and pillar spokes. The weight was exactly what they quoted the wheels were round no high and low spots) and true. they have a few thousand Km on them now. Mine were/are fine.
> That is why I am trying to do another set with them. I just need to know if the Novatech hub is up for the abuse of an xd driver and a 42 tooth cog.
> how did you find them through Ebay?
> I ordered direct from "Nancy" on the website.


I would not use the xd driver with the novatec 772. A friend of mine has blown up 3 of the pressed ratchet rings on those hubs and needed to replace the shell. I have the shimano 10 speed with the 36t and it seems to be fine. The xd driver only has 3 pawls and puts WAY to much torque on that chinsey ratchet drive inside the hub shell with a 42.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

karlmaddock said:


> Hiya all, what wheels would you recommend for a trek mamba 29re mostly gravel trailway riding, thanks


For gravel riding and fire roads? Keep whatever wheels you have now.

But if you insist... What kind of performance characteristics are you looking to improve vs your current wheels? What wheels and tires you ride now? What's your budget?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dusadus (May 21, 2014)

Just received my 30mm wheels w/ Hope hubs built from LB, and upon visual inspection they seem fine. I don't have a spoke tension meter, but I just plucked all the spokes and they seem to sound fine. Going to convert them tubeless with the bontrager strips mentioned over the weekend and will keep everyone updated.


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

dusadus said:


> Just received my 30mm wheels w/ Hope hubs built from LB, and upon visual inspection they seem fine. I don't have a spoke tension meter, but I just plucked all the spokes and they seem to sound fine. Going to convert them tubeless with the bontrager strips mentioned over the weekend and will keep everyone updated.


I have the same combo (purchased Feb. 2014) w/ DT revolution spokes.

The rims have performed perfectly. Surprisingly, I had to replace the Hope's outer axle bearings (rear hub) after 6 months. 
They still don't spin as smoothly as my other hubs.

You are gonna love the Bontrager strips. Such a good seal w/ the tire bead.


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## dusadus (May 21, 2014)

client_9 said:


> I have the same combo (purchased Feb. 2014) w/ DT revolution spokes.
> 
> The rims have performed perfectly. Surprisingly, I had to replace the Hope's outer axle bearings (rear hub) after 6 months.
> They still don't spin as smoothly as my other hubs.
> ...


Thanks for the comment, I'll keep an eye out on the HOPE hubs, although I'll be disappointed if it's not as durable as my stock bontrager hubs. Was it fairly obvious when you needed to replace the bearings?

I'm looking forward to mounting them up. These are my first lightweight wheels and I'm trying to keep my expectations low, but man I'm excited for the weekend.


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## robrobot (Aug 22, 2007)

*Yishunbike*

I have purchased both Light Bicycle and Yishunbike rims. I threw everything at them and never had a problem. My 30mm wide 29" wheels came in the 1550g range, which is respectable. The factories have come a long way with their carbon product since 2012. With that said, Yishunbike has the better product, and they look to have some cool new items coming out.


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## Couloirman (Sep 17, 2010)

Necessary to use nipple washers with LB rims? Halfway through my build and the thought didn't even occur to me until just now.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

robrobot said:


> Yishunbike has the better product


Says who, and why? I am genuinely curious.

I haven't seen ANY reviews of their product, and they stopped responding to me when i was trying to *buy* from them (god help me if i ever had to warranty something!).

I can't find a cutaway of any of their rims.

To top it off, I was interested in their kevlar rims but after doing some reading it seems like kevlar is extremely susceptible to UV which would seem to make it at a bad choice for a top layer.

Maybe i shouldn't be surprised that this is your only forum post ever, so i'm going to guess that i should stick with Light Bicycle or Nextie....


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## dusadus (May 21, 2014)

client_9 said:


> I have the same combo (purchased Feb. 2014) w/ DT revolution spokes.
> 
> The rims have performed perfectly. Surprisingly, I had to replace the Hope's outer axle bearings (rear hub) after 6 months.
> They still don't spin as smoothly as my other hubs.
> ...


It took me a bit to setup tubeless as it was my first time, but tires beaded well and are holding air well after my first hard ride.

At first riding around my street and to the trails I didn't notice a HUGE difference w/ the new wheels. And actually I thought I would notice a bigger difference in steep climbs, but where my strava times showed most improvement was actually downhill. The cornering is MUCH improved w/ the combination of this rim and going tubeless. This confidence is the main reason for upgrading and I'm pleased with this. It seems that the difference in wheels is more noticeable the harder you ride ie stomping harder to accelerate or corning tightly. Just tooling around and there's not as huge a difference.


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## joesrepsol (Mar 30, 2009)

*Doing my part...*

I read so many articles here... love MTBR... now it's my turn to give back (with pix).

Got a set of Light Bicycle 35mm carbon 29er rims (30mm internal). Got both shipped to CA for $413. Already had the Industry 9 Torch hubs (15qr, 12x142 xd driver). Rim ERD was listed at 589, but 2 shops measured at 593. I guess LB doesn't include nipple head in their ERD measurement? IDK.

Regardless, build up with Sapim CX-Ray blade spokes and Sapim PolyAx nipples. 1,601g complete with Stans 27mm rim tape and WTB red valve cores. Just love the wheel set. Such a solid ride. LBS built wheels and had nothing but positive feedback. Perfectly straight, round, went together with no issues. 110 spoke tension on driveside rear, and 110 spoke tension brake-side front. Aired up tubeless on Schwalble Nobby Nic/Racing Ralph (29x2.25) no issues. Some Stan's sealant and out rollin the next day. Definitely running less psi than normal on these wide bad boys and digging it. Down to 25psi now. 260lb rider. Full Suspension 29er. 4"5" travel.

PIX:


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## joesrepsol (Mar 30, 2009)

Just tracking down some matching green light-bicycle decals now. The factory decals are under the clear coat, which I wasn't keen on, so doing a custom decal after-the-fact now.

Like this one:


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## dusadus (May 21, 2014)

Nice! Some days I wish I went wider
I got the 30mm outer as this was going on an xc bike.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## LB412 (Nov 28, 2012)

Crank Brothers has been great for me


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## joesrepsol (Mar 30, 2009)

dusadus said:


> Nice! Some days I wish I went wider
> I got the 30mm outer as this was going on an xc bike.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I considered that rim as well (24mm internal right?). But thought if I'm going wider, lets go W-I-D-E-R. Love the new rim/setup. Actually running about 4psi less now, as the volume of air has been increased. 28psi feels like a rock now, so I'm down to 24psi to compensate for the wider rim. Love love love it.


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## Swisscycler (Jun 11, 2015)

I'm looking for light carbon wheelset for XC Allround. Prefer Centerlock DT Hub with Sapim Spoke and around 30mm rim width.

Thank`s for helping


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## joesrepsol (Mar 30, 2009)

*Custom LB Decals*

Ended up getting a custom set of decals thru Slik Graphics, in a "neon green" color... please don't ask the specifics, as I do not know. I told them I had the Niner green, pearly-like color frame... and this is what they made for me. I must admit, it's 99% a perfect match. Especially in the sunlight. Pretty cool. And now the are removable, etc.

Came in a gloss finish, on my UD matte finish light-bicycles 35mm rims. Looking sharp if you ask me!


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## sfo423 (Oct 12, 2010)

I decided against buying a complete set and have a local builder (who has built many LB wheels) to lace the wheels up. I have narrowed choices to two LB options:

RM29C19: 30OD x 24ID x 25 (395g)
RM29C06: 27OD x 22ID x 24 (365g)

Build parts:

DT Comp Race spokes
MTB180 Front Disc Hub
MTB270 Rear Disc Hub
Alum nipples

I am ~160# and wheels will go on an short travel FS bike. I am not "hard" on equipment; wondering if C19 is overkill for my needs. Most riding is XC - trail oriented. I did not see any/many comments from riders on the C06 rim so was looking for input on durability. The C19 is a new rim so i don't think there would be much rider feedback yet. 

Anyone build / ride either of these and or have input? Looking for input to make a decision!


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## polo7 (Jun 24, 2015)

joesrepsol said:


> I read so many articles here... love MTBR... now it's my turn to give back (with pix).
> 
> Got a set of Light Bicycle 35mm carbon 29er rims (30mm internal). Got both shipped to CA for $413. Already had the Industry 9 Torch hubs (15qr, 12x142 xd driver). Rim ERD was listed at 589, but 2 shops measured at 593. I guess LB doesn't include nipple head in their ERD measurement? IDK.
> 
> ...


That's a great build joesrepsol.


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## OldschoolBMXer (Sep 25, 2008)

joesrepsol said:


> I read so many articles here... love MTBR... now it's my turn to give back (with pix).
> 
> Got a set of Light Bicycle 35mm carbon 29er rims (30mm internal). Got both shipped to CA for $413. Already had the Industry 9 Torch hubs (15qr, 12x142 xd driver). Rim ERD was listed at 589, but 2 shops measured at 593. I guess LB doesn't include nipple head in their ERD measurement? IDK.
> 
> ...


Those wheels are sick!!! I'm building up with all same specs. What spoke calculator did you use? Or can you provide the spoke length you ordered?


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## ZEROUNO (Jun 7, 2015)

Alchemist wheelset carbon fiber rims, Sapim CX Ray SP spokes and Alchemist Carbon Alloy hubs. Very light!


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## Couper93 (Apr 26, 2009)

joesrepsol said:


> Ended up getting a custom set of decals thru Slik Graphics, in a "neon green" color... please don't ask the specifics, as I do not know. I told them I had the Niner green, pearly-like color frame... and this is what they made for me. I must admit, it's 99% a perfect match. Especially in the sunlight. Pretty cool. And now the are removable, etc.
> 
> Came in a gloss finish, on my UD matte finish light-bicycles 35mm rims. Looking sharp if you ask me!
> 
> View attachment 999378


I've got a niner as well. No clearance issues in the rear?


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

Anyone sold their used light bicycle wheelset with Novatec hubs locally? 

Wondering how much they are worth used.


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## augustiner (Jun 12, 2008)

Any chance anyone on here has cracked one rim and wants to unload the other rim? A buddy of mine gave me a good deal on one light bicycle 29er 32h 3k rim (around 28-30mm outer width, ~385-400g) and I'd like to find a mate for cheap... anyone out there have one laying around?


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

augustiner said:


> Any chance anyone on here has cracked one rim and wants to unload the other rim? A buddy of mine gave me a good deal on one light bicycle 29er 32h 3k rim (around 28-30mm outer width, ~385-400g) and I'd like to find a mate for cheap... anyone out there have one laying around?


Two bikes built up with LB rims and I love them both!!


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

augustiner said:


> Any chance anyone on here has cracked one rim and wants to unload the other rim? A buddy of mine gave me a good deal on one light bicycle 29er 32h 3k rim (around 28-30mm outer width, ~385-400g) and I'd like to find a mate for cheap... anyone out there have one laying around?


I have an extra in matte finish but you're not going to get it "cheap."
Demand for these is too high to take a loss.
PM me if you're interested in paying my cost for it.


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## augustiner (Jun 12, 2008)

Thanks, but I would rather buy new and get a warranty if I'm going to pay full price. Not in a rush as Im just looking to upgrade wheels when the right deal comes along.


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## PauLCa916 (Jul 1, 2013)

augustiner said:


> Thanks, but I would rather buy new and get a warranty if I'm going to pay full price. Not in a rush as Im just looking to upgrade wheels when the right deal comes along.


Good Luck Chuck


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## Erock503 (Oct 20, 2014)

Built up a set of LB assym 28/34 rims on i9 hubs with wheelsmith db spokes last season, and they've been bulletproof so far. Couldn't be happier. Not the lightest build at 1635g, but they ride light!


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

augustiner said:


> Thanks, but I would rather buy new and get a warranty if I'm going to pay full price. Not in a rush as Im just looking to upgrade wheels when the right deal comes along.


+ shipping from China


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## augustiner (Jun 12, 2008)

meltingfeather said:


> + shipping from China


Are you not including that in your cost? I'll pm you for more details...


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

augustiner said:


> Are you not including that in your cost? I'll pm you for more details...


Has anyone used LB rims for road use? Road wheels. How do you like them?


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

dgw7000 said:


> Has anyone used LB rims for road use? Road wheels. How do you like them?


I bought some of the wide U-shaped 45mm road rims a couple of years ago. Smooth ride! Good stiffness, fairly easy to setup tubeless. If I was going to buy some today, I would get a 25mm or 35mm depth for the front wheel to reduce the effects of crosswinds. The 45mm depth is fine for all-around riding, but it is windy around here and I need to concentrate a bit more when the gusts are blowing.


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## TrialsCartel (May 5, 2016)

Has anyone built/bought the 29" for an Enduro bike? I have a Trek Slash 29" 9.8 and one of the Bontrager Comp Line 30mm rims is cracking where the nipples tighten the spokes, I did compete at a local Urban DH with the bike and the rims did not like the stairs...Nevertheless, the Bontragers are 28h, and now that the rear one has failed, I wish to make an upgrade but stronger options are limited....

Will the AM928 work? Its quite expensive though $285 for 1 rim....
There is also the RM29C14 in Heavy Duty....seems too wide at 31.6mm for 2.3-2.5 tires? 

Any other ideas?


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

TrialsCartel said:


> Has anyone built/bought the 29" for an Enduro bike? I have a Trek Slash 29" 9.8 and one of the Bontrager Comp Line 30mm rims is cracking where the nipples tighten the spokes, I did compete at a local Urban DH with the bike and the rims did not like the stairs...Nevertheless, the Bontragers are 28h, and now that the rear one has failed, I wish to make an upgrade but stronger options are limited....
> 
> Will the AM928 work? Its quite expensive though $285 for 1 rim....
> There is also the RM29C14 in Heavy Duty....seems too wide at 31.6mm for 2.3-2.5 tires?
> ...


I would go with RM29c07, 35mm and less money my buddy has on his 650b in the heavy duty has been beating the crap out of them and loves them. The 38mm are better for + setup . The 34mm rims would be perfect also if the money is there!!


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

dgw7000 said:


> I would go with RM29c07, 35mm and less money my buddy has on his 650b in the heavy duty has been beating the crap out of them and loves them. The 38mm are better for + setup . The 34mm rims would be perfect also if the money is there!!


I agree- have two wheels built with these and I've been very happy with them.

https://www.lightbicycle.com/35mm-w...-bike-enduro-with-tubeless-compatibility.html


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Just had some of their new asym XC923 rims laced up at the LBS - they did a group buy. Crazy nice looking build, the 23mm width is monstrous compared to the old-school narrow (19mm) rims I had. Very nice quality.


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## YetiBoy1989 (Apr 21, 2021)

Sorry to up this thread as a necro post but I was just thinking if someone here applies dielectric grease before going out where you might encounter any mud and whenever you wash your bike. Where do you apply dielectric grease to prevent corrosion? Based from what I read Dielectric Grease Review | What Is Electrical Grease? | MOTORING CRUNCH it is mostly for electrical components.


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