# Care and Feeding of Forks



## letsgo (Apr 12, 2009)

Last time I purchased a bike they did not know what disk brakes or suspention was. High end was about$1500.

I recently purchased a 2012 Giant XCT 29'r. Really enjoying the bike. 

Not to the important stuff.

The bike comes with a RockShox Reba 29 RL. I asked the LBS about how to take care of the fork and the stanctions (SP?), and they said just wipe off any excess dirt/dust with a clean towel. Is that all I need to do? Do I need to put oil on the O rings at the top of the fork? Some one on some thread mentioned stanction oil?

Seems like the stanctions had more oil them on the first couple of rides than they do now.

Am I just over thinking this? Just want this purchase to last as long at the last bike.


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

letsgo said:


> Last time I purchased a bike they did not know what disk brakes or suspention was. High end was about$1500.
> 
> I recently purchased a 2012 Giant XCT 29'r. Really enjoying the bike.
> 
> ...


You're over thinking it, the bike shop had it right. If you wanted, you can occasionally add a little bit of oil to the stanchions, cycle the fork, and wipe it back clean. I use drip on Boshield T-9 (because that's what I have) but drip TriFlow or even Slick Honey would be appropriate. Most of the time cleaning up the dust seals is sufficient.


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Agree with zebrahum on this. I use a soft clean cloth (think t-shirt) to 'floss' between the stanchion and the lower fork brace and then a general stanchion wipe down after each ride. Stanchion damage (from grit) is bad news and could eventually lead to a leaky fork.


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## jeffgre_6163 (Jan 23, 2010)

The above advice is ill informed, and thats polite.
Forks need more than just a regular wipe and a drop of fluid on the seals.

The Reba technical manual is located here:
http://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/2011-reba-technical-manual.pdf
This states that dissassemly service intervals are every 50 hours to service the seals, wipers and bushings as well as change the oil bath.
IGNORE ANY FORK SERVICE INTERVALS AT YOUR OWN PERIL!
50 hours is not long - thats only 16, 3 hour rides or 5 weeks at 3 rides a week in my case.

I have seen forks that have been neglected - dust and crap gets past the wipers and seals and gets between the bushings and anodised stanchions resulting in the anodising wearing off to bare alloy - not good.
This can happen in as little as a year, once done the forks tend to be write off - a very expensive write off.

Its a very simple process to pull them apart and clean the seals and wipers, any competant home mechanic can do it with out special tools.

Another thing to do that will help the longevity of the forks is to either flip the bike upside down for 10 minutes prior to a ride [like when you are getting your gear on at the trail head] or store it upside down.
Otherwise the oil bath will settle in the bottom of the fork.
Note that there is typically only 15 - 30ml of oil in the lowers to lube the seals and bushes - this can dissappear very quickly with regular use and cannot be replaced just by lubing the seals from the exterior
The bushings need a coating of oil between the bush and the stanchion to work as well as the fact that there is a soft, spongy o ring under the seal to soak up oil and lubricate the seal, this dries out if the fork is left to settle.
If you head out for a ride without flipping the bike this oil will still be in the bottom of the lower, not doing its job [Think red lining a car engine from a cold start].
For the record, the bushings have verticle slots cut in them to allow for the oil to run up the stanchion to the seals.
Once the bike is moving the normal fork motion splashes the oil around.

This is good advice - take it!


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

If you ride a lot, get it rebuilt in a year or so.


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## jeffgre_6163 (Jan 23, 2010)

AndrwSwitch said:


> If you ride a lot, get it rebuilt in a year or so.


Again - WRONG
Its hours riden not calendar time - 50 hour service intervals
If all else fails read the service manual guys


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

When I've got more money to throw at the issue, I'll get two identical forks so that I can keep my bike rolling while one's in the shop.

Until then, the off-season's a time to catch up on this stuff.


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## jeffgre_6163 (Jan 23, 2010)

AndrwSwitch said:


> When I've got more money to throw at the issue, I'll get two identical forks so that I can keep my bike rolling while one's in the shop.
> 
> Until then, the off-season's a time to catch up on this stuff.


WTF ... thats crazy
Do you lube your chain or do you wait for the off season to do that too?
Maybe you have two chains?

All you need to pull the forks apart are your own time [1/2 hour once you know how], $10.00 in fork oil and a couple of allen keys.

Guys like you keep bike shops sevice managers and parts companies laughing all the way to the bank


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## Crash Test Dumby (May 3, 2011)

Somebody must have stayed at the Holiday Inn last night!


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

jeffgre_6163 said:


> This is good advice - take it!


Your tone could have been a bit more friendly. The advice before yours is completely valid. Nowhere was it suggested that you don't need to follow service intervals. On a per-ride basis, even manufacturers suggest the wiping clean of dirt from around the dust seals and on the stanchions. You advice is also valid, but the OP's question was phrased such that he was inquiring about what to do at the end of a ride. Of course you want to keep up with service intervals but in between you should be cleaning up your fork seals.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

jeffgre_6163 has it completely right. OP, listen to him.

For the end of the ride, just wipe the stanchion clean with a wet rag. There's no need to oil the wipers, and if anything, it can pull dirt into the fork. There's a reason fork manufacturers don't tell you to do that, and why it's not in the maintenance schedule. The most important thing you can do is regularly maintain your fork and change the oil in it.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

AndrwSwitch said:


> When I've got more money to throw at the issue, I'll get two identical forks so that I can keep my bike rolling while one's in the shop.
> 
> Until then, the off-season's a time to catch up on this stuff.


This is such a ridiculous statement. If you want to destroy your equipment, go ahead, but don't encourage other people to as well.

Once you've done it a few times, changing the oil is a 20 minute process. It's an easy process to do by yourself, and directions on doing so abound. Are you telling us you don't have 20 minutes to maintain your fork every 50 hours of riding?


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## letsgo (Apr 12, 2009)

Glad to know that I am doing the right things at this point. Never heard about turning your bike upside down, but that makes perfect sense once you think about it. Will start to do that. Thanks for the manual, I will have the fork rebuild at the end of the season which should fall in line with the 50 hrs operating mark. Little scared to do it but I will man up when the time comes!

Thanks again.


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## carspidey (Aug 1, 2011)

jeffgre_6163 said:


> The above advice is ill informed, and thats polite.
> Forks need more than just a regular wipe and a drop of fluid on the seals.
> 
> The Reba technical manual is located here:
> ...


Where are you located? My fork probably needs some work but i have no idea on how to take it apart and put more oil... any website that shows basic maintanance? i am new to the sport and recently got a 2006 morewood shova lt and i am assuming it has 2005-7 fork... don't know if the guy serviced it but i would like to start...

thanks...


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Both the Fox and RS site have detailed instructions on how to service their forks. In additional, the Enduro site has several good picture tutorials as well.


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## carspidey (Aug 1, 2011)

bad mechanic said:


> Both the Fox and RS site have detailed instructions on how to service their forks. In additional, the Enduro site has several good picture tutorials as well.


i have a marzocchi RC2 888 bomber... i believe it's a 2006... you can put air in it (don't know if this make a difference)...


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## jeffgre_6163 (Jan 23, 2010)

carspidey said:


> i have a marzocchi RC2 888 bomber... i believe it's a 2006... you can put air in it (don't know if this make a difference)...


Service your fork even if the previous owner has claimed to do it regularly, that we you will know exactly when it needs to be done again.
A couple of clicks on Google found the owners manula for your fork:

Tenneco Marzocchi Suspension

For the record, and to emphasise a point in regard to the perils of not servicing your fork and having it completely fail:
Brand new Marzocchi Bomber 888 RC3 WC 2009 old stock clearance on CRC right now are $1,275.75 Aussie dollars, as the Aussie is worth more the th US dollar at the momment that means you are up for in excess of $1,300.00 for a new fork.

Thats a lot of services fees!


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## jeffgre_6163 (Jan 23, 2010)

zebrahum said:


> Your tone could have been a bit more friendly. The advice before yours is completely valid. Nowhere was it suggested that you don't need to follow service intervals. On a per-ride basis, even manufacturers suggest the wiping clean of dirt from around the dust seals and on the stanchions. You advice is also valid, but the OP's question was phrased such that he was inquiring about what to do at the end of a ride. Of course you want to keep up with service intervals but in between you should be cleaning up your fork seals.


Perhaps.
But like all forums people jump in with advice thats not only ill informed but often completety wrong, and in this case could have wound up costing the OP dearly.
This gives me the S**ts
Sure, you did not suggest that he not follow the service intervals, but then again your post would indicate that you did not even know they existed or you would have referred to them.
If your post had been the last the OP had read he would have gone away thinking "Cool, all I ever have to do is wipe the fork stanchions down"
12 months later when his stanchions were worn out, leaking, with heaps of play and the LBS tells him "Sorry, no warranty, you didn't follow the service schedule" whats he going to do? turn around and say that he read a post on a forum telling him he only needed to wipe the fork off.

I have met so many riders with mid to upper end bikes and components that are completely shagged because they dont look after them properly, mostly in complete ignorance of whats required.
Part of the issue is with the LBS who dont tell them that their new bike equiped with a Fox 32 RLC FIT [for example] will need a complete fork service in 5 weeks [50 hours]costing $100.00 
No one wants to hear that after just coughing up $3,000.00 for the bike they are then up for a further $400.00 - $500.00 per year for suspension servicing.
Hidden costs suck
The owner, having not serviced the fork then bags out Fox for making a crap product.

Light weight does not equal durability


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

jeffgre_6163 said:


> Perhaps.
> But like all forums people jump in with advice thats not only ill informed but often completety wrong, and in this case could have wound up costing the OP dearly.
> This gives me the S**ts
> Sure, you did not suggest that he not follow the service intervals, but then again your post would indicate that you did not even know they existed or you would have referred to them.
> ...


Dude, it's like you're reading my mind. :lol:

I'd add, light weight can be durable, provided it's maintained properly. My Fox forks are still in perfect shape (aside from scratches and the regular), but then they're serviced every 30 hours of riding, and have run Enduros from day one.


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

I jumped to this thread while reading another. Since I have a FOX fork, I thought I would consult the owner's manual. Lot's of good info on the Fox site.

The recommended interval for a "major service" (for lack of a better term) on the fork is 100 hours or annually. This includes:

1. Inspecting dropout thickness (don't know what this means--got to read more. My fork has a 15mm through-axle, so "dropouts" don't really apply--???)

2. Inspecting bushings.

3. Changing oil.

They also recommend "Clean and inspect dust wipers" every 30 hours There's a procedure for doing this involving prying the dust wipers up and out and, well, inspecting and cleaning them. 

So Fox owners seem to get a break, at least as far as factory recommendations go.

Linky... (Go to "Service Intervals" in the table of contents on the left side of the page.)


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

100 hours is too long, and I can't believe Fox still says that. The service interval for their 36 and 40 is only 30 hours, which is much more realistic. You really shouldn't go more than 50 hours on a Fox32 without changing the oil.


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## Porschefan (Jan 14, 2011)

bad mechanic said:


> 100 hours is too long, and I can't believe Fox still says that. The service interval for their 36 and 40 is only 30 hours, which is much more realistic. You really shouldn't go more than 50 hours on a Fox32 without changing the oil.


Well, now we've gone from "follow the mfg's instructions" to "mfgr's instructions are wrong." Arghhh.....life on the forums


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

The problem is most people don't even follow the manufacturer's instructions!


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## Colo Springs E (Dec 20, 2009)

I've never done regular maintenance on any fork I've ever had, and never had any problems.

Just sayin'...


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## STT GUY (May 19, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> 100 hours is too long, and I can't believe Fox still says that. The service interval for their 36 and 40 is only 30 hours, which is much more realistic. You really shouldn't go more than 50 hours on a Fox32 without changing the oil.


Would this not depend on the conditions in which the fork was used? A fork used in wet/muddy conditions would have more contamination make its way past the seals than on one used in dry conditions.

Fox is covering their ass. From my observations it seems if your Fox shock or fork is going to $hit the bed, it does it in the first five to ten hours of service. If you make it past that, you're usually good for 100 hours and then some.


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## Ranger Radon (Aug 15, 2011)

jeffgre_6163 said:


> ...
> Another thing to do that will help the longevity of the forks is to either flip the bike upside down for 10 minutes prior to a ride [like when you are getting your gear on at the trail head] or store it upside down....


I know its been 4 weeks since posting, but flipping it, will let air thats accumulated in the brakes, travel to the calipers, and make the brakes less functional.. som brakes have a tiny hole in the reservoir, leaving the bike upside down will cause caustic brake fluid to leak out..

THIS ADVICE SUCKS!!!!

whether you are right or not about the forks I cannot tell, but policing the forums for other peoples bad advice, is pretty narly, when your own advice doesn't hold ground


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Colo Springs E said:


> I've never done regular maintenance on any fork I've ever had, and never had any problems.
> 
> Just sayin'...


You're lucky, nothing more (and you don't know what unseen damage was inside them). Other people shouldn't expect the same.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Ranger Radon said:


> I know its been 4 weeks since posting, but flipping it, will let air thats accumulated in the brakes, travel to the calipers, and make the brakes less functional.. som brakes have a tiny hole in the reservoir, leaving the bike upside down will cause caustic brake fluid to leak out..
> 
> THIS ADVICE SUCKS!!!!
> 
> whether you are right or not about the forks I cannot tell, but policing the forums for other peoples bad advice, is pretty narly, when your own advice doesn't hold ground


It's funny, because your own advice is completely wrong. With properly bleed brakes, there is NO air in the system, and turning it upside down will do nothing. Air doesn't accumulate in a brake system (that's why there's a diaphragm on the reservoir). Also, turning them upside down won't allow brake fluid to seep out (again, the diaphragm). Please get your facts straight before trying to police others.


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## Ranger Radon (Aug 15, 2011)

bad mechanic said:


> It's funny, because your own advice is completely wrong. With properly bleed brakes, there is NO air in the system, and turning it upside down will do nothing. Air doesn't accumulate in a brake system (that's why there's a diaphragm on the reservoir). Also, turning them upside down won't allow brake fluid to seep out (again, the diaphragm). Please get your facts straight before trying to police others.


If air does not accumulate in the fluid over time, why would one need to bleed?
There´s air in the fluid, that cant be argued!, since you can create bubbles with vacuum. And if theres air in the system, i will prefer that is doesn't rest in the caliper! thus not turning it upside down, for longer than it takes me to pick my self up, brush of the mud, and get back in the saddle.

I´m not policing, i obviously have a faulty diaphragm since I get the seep...


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## Delirious (Jun 12, 2011)

I have a 100mm RS Recon Gold TK and thought it was strictly an air shock (solo air). I assumed since it was air operated it didn't contain an oil "bath" but apparently it does.

RockShox Solo Air Service - YouTube

http://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/2011-recon-gold-technical-manual.pdf

I don't see how this would take 20 minutes to perform unless you've done it numerous times before. If its being done for the first time I would think upwards of an hour to do this is reasonable.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Ranger Radon said:


> If air does not accumulate in the fluid over time, why would one need to bleed?
> There´s air in the fluid, that cant be argued!, since you can create bubbles with vacuum. And if theres air in the system, i will prefer that is doesn't rest in the caliper! thus not turning it upside down, for longer than it takes me to pick my self up, brush of the mud, and get back in the saddle.
> 
> I´m not policing, i obviously have a faulty diaphragm since I get the seep...


You bleed it because the oil absorbs water and it becomes contaminated, *not* because air develops in it. After a good bleed there isn't_ any_ air in the fluid, and I don't see how a vacuum has any bearing on it. Finally, if you_ do_ have air in the system, it doesn't matter if it's in the line, in the caliper, or in the master cylinder, it will affect the system in the same way.

It sounds like you either have a bad diaphragm, it isn't seated properly, or you go brake fluid on top of it (most common cause).


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Delirious said:


> I don't see how this would take 20 minutes to perform unless you've done it numerous times before. If its being done for the first time I would think upwards of an hour to do this is reasonable.


It definitely takes longer the first time you do it, figure an hour or two. But once you've done it a few times, 20 minutes is very doable. In fact, if I'm just doing an oil change, I can easily get it done in about 10 minutes.


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## Ranger Radon (Aug 15, 2011)

bad mechanic said:


> You bleed it because the oil absorbs water and it becomes contaminated, *not* because air develops in it. After a good bleed there isn't_ any_ air in the fluid, and I don't see how a vacuum has any bearing on it. Finally, if you_ do_ have air in the system, it doesn't matter if it's in the line, in the caliper, or in the master cylinder, it will affect the system in the same way.
> 
> It sounds like you either have a bad diaphragm, it isn't seated properly, or you go brake fluid on top of it (most common cause).


I was under the assumption, that the air contained in the fluid were pressed out during braking, and eventually accumulated at the very top of the brake system, where the reservoir is located., unless this air, goes all the way to the top of the reservoir and stays, it would,, when bike turned upside down, travel to the caliper, or down the hose. thus affecting braking performance.

How do i get brake fluid on top of my diaphragm?


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## Colo Springs E (Dec 20, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> You're lucky, nothing more (and you don't know what unseen damage was inside them). Other people shouldn't expect the same.


I agree... also commented on another post that I've been mtn biking off and on since the early 90s... I often don't carry tools w/me when biking. I have NEVER had a flat (or other issue that made me walk) while mtn biking. I have had a couple flats riding in the city and/or on bikepath.

I will be looking to get a nicer fork for my Voodoo in the next few months and I plan on taking care of this one. But in the past, I've done nothing but abuse them.

For what it's worth I'm not very heavy (155 #) so maybe that plays into my luck with forks and tires.


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## jeffgre_6163 (Jan 23, 2010)

Ranger Radon said:


> I know its been 4 weeks since posting, but flipping it, will let air thats accumulated in the brakes, travel to the calipers, and make the brakes less functional.. som brakes have a tiny hole in the reservoir, leaving the bike upside down will cause caustic brake fluid to leak out..
> 
> THIS ADVICE SUCKS!!!!
> 
> whether you are right or not about the forks I cannot tell, but policing the forums for other peoples bad advice, is pretty narly, when your own advice doesn't hold ground


Oh FFS
I wonder why I bother at times - Quite frankly I will not even bother to counter this post as it has been done by several others before me
Just answer me one thing my friend?
How do you remove and reinstall your wheels or clean and service your chain etc etc if you dont turn your bike up side down?
I assume you never do cause your brakes my fail?


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## jeffgre_6163 (Jan 23, 2010)

Colo Springs E said:


> I've never done regular maintenance on any fork I've ever had, and never had any problems.
> 
> Just sayin'...


And I would guess that you also smoke 2 packs a day 'cause your Granny did right up untill the day she died at 97 or you never wear a seat belt because you heard from a friend of a friend that they can decapitate you in an accident.

Personally I never eat carrots because 100% of people that have ever eaten carrots have died or will do, thus proving they are deadly poison.


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## Ranger Radon (Aug 15, 2011)

jeffgre_6163 said:


> Oh FFS
> I wonder why I bother at times - Quite frankly I will not even bother to counter this post as it has been done by several others before me
> Just answer me one thing my friend?
> How do you remove and reinstall your wheels or clean and service your chain etc etc if you dont turn your bike up side down?
> I assume you never do cause your brakes my fail?


I take the wheels off, by opening the quick-release.. how else?
For service purposes I place the bike in either my workstand or hang it by chains from the ceiling..
I cant see what bike service has to do with turning the bike upside down!

My own experience is that brake fluid seep from the tiny hole, when turned upside down.
In the installation manual of older XT brakes, it says never to turn the bike upside down(don't own one, but it can be googled)

And if you have air in the reservoir, turning the bike upside down could allow this air to travel towards the caliper.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Ranger Radon said:


> I was under the assumption, that the air contained in the fluid were pressed out during braking, and eventually accumulated at the very top of the brake system, where the reservoir is located., unless this air, goes all the way to the top of the reservoir and stays, it would,, when bike turned upside down, travel to the caliper, or down the hose. thus affecting braking performance.
> 
> How do i get brake fluid on top of my diaphragm?


Your assumption is wrong, there is no air contained in the fluid, and it is not "pressed out" during braking.

Generally fluid gets on top of the diaphragm when it's installed onto a full reservoir, and then not cleaned appropriately.



Ranger Radon said:


> My own experience is that brake fluid seep from the tiny hole, when turned upside down.
> In the installation manual of older XT brakes, it says never to turn the bike upside down(don't own one, but it can be googled)
> 
> And if you have air in the reservoir, turning the bike upside down could allow this air to travel towards the caliper.


Yes, the original XT disc manual had that warning (in fact the manuals still carry that warning), and it was complete CYA on the part of Shimano. If you follow their directions correctly and ensure there is no air under the diaphragm, there are absolutely no issues. For the record, I* did* own 4 pot XT brakes, and they were stored vertically and upside down plenty. A properly bleed brake is virtually impervious.


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## Delirious (Jun 12, 2011)

Straight from the Shimano tech docs.

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t...BL-M756/SI-8180H-En_v1_m56577569830611888.pdf

• When turning the bicycle upside down or on its side the brake system may have some air
bubbles inside the reservoir tank which are still there when the reservoir tank cover is
replaced, or which accumulate in various parts of the brake system when it is used for long
periods. The M755 disc brake system is not designed to be turned upside down. If the bicycle
is turned upside down or on its side, the air bubbles inside the reservoir tank may move in the
direction of the calipers. If the bicycle is ridden in this condition, there is the danger that the
brakes may not operate and a serious accident could occur. 
If the bicycle has been turned upside down or on its side, be sure to operate the brake lever a
few times to check that the brakes operate normally before riding the bicycle. If the brakes do
not operate normally, adjust them by the following procedure


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Delirious said:


> Straight from the Shimano tech docs...


See my previous post.


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## Delirious (Jun 12, 2011)

bad mechanic said:


> See my previous post.


yup you posted yours 5 minutes before I posted mine (while I was googling, copying and pasting)


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## STT GUY (May 19, 2009)

Delirious said:


> I have a 100mm RS Recon Gold TK and thought it was strictly an air shock (solo air). I assumed since it was air operated it didn't contain an oil "bath" but apparently it does.
> 
> RockShox Solo Air Service - YouTube
> 
> ...


Not even close.....Here is how it goes down for me. An hour to take it of the bike and apart, look at it for 30 minutes saying WTF are all of these seals, o-rings and stuff, 20 minutes to decide that Im gonna screw this up if i do it myself, 10 minutes to put all the crap in a box and then 15 minutes to drive to the shop. So thats over two hours and it's still not fixed.


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## Delirious (Jun 12, 2011)

STT GUY said:


> 30 minutes saying WTF are all of these seals, o-rings and stuff, .


Lol, There's your problem. Don't ask what all the seals are, just clean, lube and throw it all back together.


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## elcaro1101 (Sep 1, 2011)

Im just going to leave these here...

Now off to ride my ill maintained fork....PRAY FOR ME!


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## Ranger Radon (Aug 15, 2011)

bad mechanic said:


> Your assumption is wrong, there is no air contained in the fluid, and it is not "pressed out" during braking.


 Right, so one bleeds to remove debris and water!



bad mechanic said:


> Generally fluid gets on top of the diaphragm when it's installed onto a full reservoir, and then not cleaned appropriately.


 So removing the top, and wiping off whatever excess there might be, should stop it?



bad mechanic said:


> Yes, the original XT disc manual had that warning (in fact the manuals still carry that warning), and it was complete CYA on the part of Shimano. If you follow their directions correctly and ensure there is no air under the diaphragm, there are absolutely no issues. For the record, I* did* own 4 pot XT brakes, and they were stored vertically and upside down plenty. A properly bleed brake is virtually impervious.


Okay, I guess i'm covering my behind, behind faulty tech docs and my own seeping experience.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Exactly, especially water. Water lowers the fluid's boiling point, and makes the fluid more compressible. The only time you should need to bleed to remove air is after a repair or brake component replacement. 

Yeah, the documents are at least overly cautious, which seems to be the norm.

Just wiping off the top of the top of the diaphragm should fix the problem, unless there's a bigger underlying issue. If there is, it's best to find it now, than on the trail. With the diaphragm and cap in place, the brake system should be completely sealed.


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## agabriel (Jul 3, 2007)

I can't believe I'm posting in this thread, ugh... 

I subscribe to the once a year approach with my suspension and I do ride 3x a week during the season. The core of my problems haven't been with oil, its actually been in some of the seals not typically replaced during a rebuild. I have a Pike that is finally working correctly - it was rebuilt my local LBS and Pushed and it was still having issues. I didn't want to send it back to push so I talked a lot more with my LBS, they resealed it again and it still had problems after a few weeks (10mm lost travel). I brought it back to my LBS and the head mechanic made it his mission to fix it, and he did. I found one bad seal that is typically outside the scope of a rebuild. Anyway, that fork runs great now. I had a similar issue with an RP3 - same rebuild schedule. I did send that back to push for warranty and they literally replaced every part inside of it, it also runs great now. Anyway, I'm all for maintenance but I think some companies are overly conservative with their schedules. If you can't get 6 months (riding 3x a week) out of your suspension then I think there might be other issues. 

Anyway, take the advice for what you paid for it. This has been my experience over the last 6 - 7 years of riding Fox and Rock Shock air suspension.

Anthony


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## Ranger Radon (Aug 15, 2011)

bad mechanic said:


> Exactly, especially water. Water lowers the fluid's boiling point, and makes the fluid more compressible. The only time you should need to bleed to remove air is after a repair or brake component replacement.


 Ok, so if i experience, soft levers after a long period of no pedalling, this is due to a leak, or a bad initial bleed.



bad mechanic said:


> Yeah, the documents are at least overly cautious, which seems to be the norm.


 Well CYA, works in some cases, and places the responsabilities for maintenance, and warranty voids at the customer.



bad mechanic said:


> Just wiping off the top of the top of the diaphragm should fix the problem, unless there's a bigger underlying issue. If there is, it's best to find it now, than on the trail. With the diaphragm and cap in place, the brake system should be completely sealed.


 ok.. ill have to look into this, and then stop spamming this thread, with brake issues.. thx


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## Colo Springs E (Dec 20, 2009)

jeffgre_6163 said:


> And I would guess that you also smoke 2 packs a day 'cause your Granny did right up untill the day she died at 97 or you never wear a seat belt because you heard from a friend of a friend that they can decapitate you in an accident.


3 packs a day, and I drive facing the backseat, no seatbelt. I also like to break open thermometers and play with the mercury, fun!


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## jaynestown (Oct 23, 2011)

Forks are a lot like women. You must service them at regular intervals if you want them to continue to perform. Now some people may get a rare one that will perform, regardless of service. But you shouldn't count on this. If you take your beautiful and precious fork for granted, one day she may just throw in the towel and leave you on your arse. Then you will find yourself sitting at home on Saturday night watching rehashed Lifetime movies, eating Ben & Jerry's, and howling, "Audrey! Why?! Why didn't I give you the attention you deserved?!" Well, if you named your fork Audrey, anyways.

My two cents.


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## Ranger Radon (Aug 15, 2011)

jaynestown said:


> Forks are a lot like women. You must service them at regular intervals if you want them to continue to perform. Now some people may get a rare one that will perform, regardless of service. But you shouldn't count on this. If you take your beautiful and precious fork for granted, one day she may just throw in the towel and leave you on your arse. Then you will find yourself sitting at home on Saturday night watching rehashed Lifetime movies, eating Ben & Jerry's, and howling, "Audrey! Why?! Why didn't I give you the attention you deserved?!" Well, if you named your fork Audrey, anyways.
> 
> My two cents.


You are spot on, but not accounting for the fact that i might be cheaper to get a new one, once in i while, instead of maintaining the one you have... depending of how demanding she is... your fork that is..


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