# Very Easy XM-L Build



## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Just sharing what I've picked up from reading in this forum. Thanks to everyone for sharing their ideas!!

Object of this build is:
1) Make it as easy as possible so that anyone can do it.
2) Use very little power tools, so no cutting / gluing of metal.
3) To run the XM-L at high power from two to four hrs.
4) Use as little of this $$$ as possible!

The Parts
Led Supply dot com
XM-L Cool White - $10.05
Optics Carclo 20mm - Plain Tight Lens for helmet / Medium Ripple Lens on bar - $1.25ea
Optic holder - $0.23

Deal Extreme (DX)(Free Shipping)
LED Driver sku#57779 - $5
TrustFire Protected 18650 Lithium Battery (2500mAh 2-Pack Blue) sku #5790 - $7.99 (if you want to save you can use rechargable AA 8 min. good for ~2hrs but not as bright as using four 18650s).
14.8V 4 x 18650 Battery Holder Case Box with Leads sku#103855 - $2.80
Universal Adjustable Bicycle Mount for Flashlights (2cm~4cm Diameter) sku#31871 - $2.39
Clicky Switch for Flashlights (17.8mm 5-Pack) sku#5602 - $1.90
JST Cables (10-Pair) SKU#15234 - $2.78

Westburne Electrical Supply (Pricing in CDN$)
1 - 3/4 ALUMINUM CONDUIT COUPLING - $5.52
2 - CUP-2 KILLARK 3/4" CLOSE-UP PLUG - $1.95
1 - R32 KILLARK CONDULET - $2.30

Total comes to $52.17
If you have your own batteries - $33.37
Less if you have your own wires and switches.

The Build
Here is a pictures of most of the parts









1 - Mark out the holes you need to drill through the heat sink (cup 2 close plug) and drill.









2 - Using a soldering iron, solder the wires to the Led and paste it to the heat sink. ( I used Fujik compond that I got from DX working on other projects).Make sure to press down so that the Led is in good contact with the heat sink. You can use the optic holder and screw the R32 down on top of them. Note: I shaved off the tabs on the optic holder that hold down the optics, the R32 will hold it down for you.

















3 - Now solder the Led wires to the Led Driver. Remember to use some heat shrink to cover the expose wires.









4 - The opening of the body (3/4 ALUMINUM CONDUIT COUPLING) is big enough for the driver to fit through.









5 - Take the second Cup 2 Close Plug and drill a hole through the middle. Make sure the hole is the same size or a bit larger as the wires you're using for the battery. After this no other power tool is needed. As you can see I have two sets of wires, one for the battery, the other for the remote switch.









6 - Push the wires through the second Cup 2 Close Plug and solder it to the Led Driver. Positive goes in the middle, negative around the edge. I used some heat shrink and a zip tie a cable strain. As you can see I've already screwed on the light head to the body









7 - Before closing it up, test to see if it's working! 









8 - Once it's working, close it up by holding the power / switch wire steady and rotate the Cup 2 Close Plug into the body. Make sure the wires are not rotating also!! You should be able to have the Close Plug flush with the end of the body. When it's done you'll be holding this in your hands.
**There could be a small chance that the soldered points may make contact with inside the light body creating a short. You can wrap it with electrical tape or thermal paste the yellow metal thingy to the inside to secure it. Thanks to "slcpunk".for pointing this out.









9 - Sit back and have a cold one!!

10 - Wait for the darkness to arrive!! Then go out and ride!!

I have used clear RTV Silicone to seal the seams from water especially the back where the power wires are, fill it up with silicone. I'll be using a 30mm lens to cover the front and seal it the same way. All my wire conx are sealed the same way.

Water proofing accessories for the batteries.









The light on my bar and remote switch.

















Beam shots









Outside 
Camera set to manual
ISO 200
Shutter 4s
WB - Daylight
Jpeg
No post processing
Fence is about 50 feet away.

No Lights "Duh"









Wide on bar "High"









Wide on bar "Low"









Spot on helmet "High"









Spot on helmet "Low"









Both "High"









Both "Low"









Some other info
Weight - .095lbs according to the scale in the cafe at the place of work.
Been riding for close to two hrs at night and running at high and body only slightly warm to the touch. Lights up the trail pretty darn good!
Don't know what lumens it's producing, I'm guessing around 900? I know XM-L's produces over 1000, I'm happy with 900 hopefully.
Ordering from DX was easy and took about 1 1/2 wks to arrive from the time of odering. Led Supply was much quicker, but then they are only in the US.

Sorry no trail shots, to much of a hasle to bring camera, tripod etc. One of these days, maybe.

Well hope this help anyone looking for an easy DIY light build with little power tools needed. Everything just screws right in!

*UPDATE:*
Adding this video on how these lights work on the trail. Sorry but the GoPro does not work very well in low light. But well enough when the lights are on high. Enojoy.





*Update:*

Do you guys wish this build could be a little lighter and smaller? I would also say easier, but this is about as easiest as it gets.

Well you're in luck! Cause meet XM-L's little cozin..."XM-L2"



They are about the same in length but the new body has a smaller diameter.




It weights less too!! I assuming it'll weight in at around 81g with driver, optics, emitter and wires in place.

I'm going to be using XM-L2 emitters with AMC7135 3.0A driver on this new build.

Will I really see a difference in light output between a 2.8A and a 3.0A driver?

Anyways here is the info you'll need if you want the smaller body.
Mainbody is 1/2 ALUMINUM CONDUIT COUPLING $5.00
Optic holder is R-21 $1.83
Heat sink is CUP-1 KILLARK 1/2" CLOSE-UP PLUG $1.60

To close up the back end, I'll use one of the sliding door thingy with a cable gland through it.


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## yourdy (Aug 4, 2012)

Very cool! Thanks for sharing!


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## odtexas (Oct 2, 2008)

Looks like you know your stuff. Nice builds and write up.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

odtexas said:


> Looks like you know your stuff. Nice builds and write up.


Brilliant :thumbsup:


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## Clipless in PA (May 27, 2009)

Very nice. I've got a couple friends interested in lights, but were put off by the $150 or so price tag on what my last build and batteries would run. I'll have to direct them to your build.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

odtexas said:


> Looks like you know your stuff. Nice builds and write up.


You learn a lot in these forums. Thanks.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Clipless in PA said:


> Very nice. I've got a couple friends interested in lights, but were put off by the $150 or so price tag on what my last build and batteries would run. I'll have to direct them to your build.


I hope this will help them out.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Added liinks to the parts and corrected the sku# for the Trustfire 18650 batteries. Once you have all the parts, it should take you about 45mins to assemble.


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## borrower (Feb 26, 2011)

Sweet! I'm personally not a fan of the trustfire batteries since there seem to be so many counterfeit batteries out there that are using the name, but otherwise a really nice tidy build. Thanks for sharing.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Fantastic use of easy to find parts.

pucked up, you've given me a few ideas on how to get around the fact that my lathe can't cut threads:thumbsup:


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## shirk (Mar 24, 2004)

Cool build.

Instead of the coupler and second plug could you use two of the Condulet's and join them with the one plug in the middle?










After this tuck the driver up tight to the plug then screw on a second Condulet to cover the driver. You would need to make a little plate to close up the end of the housing. some thin plastic sheet cut round and glued in with silicone.

Housing would end up a bit smaller and the thread would provide surface area to act as heat sink.

There would be no single smooth surface to mount, but perhaps file one side flat to tap screw hole for a mount.

I need to build a couple lights for an event in September, this gives me ideas.

Anyone know what the height of a modified Regina is vs these Carlco and holders? I have some Regina's I had ordered to use in a sled design.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

shirk said:


> Cool build.
> 
> Instead of the coupler and second plug could you use two of the Condulet's and join them with the one plug in the middle?


Hey Shirk
I've tried that but unfortunately the Cup 2 Plug only screws in to the Condulet one way, smooth side in first.

I what I can't believe that I didn't think of during the build is, you can file down either the remain threads on the Cup 2 Plug or the threads from inside the Condulet slide it together and JB Weld the second one to the plug / first Condulet..










You can hammer in a sliding closet door thingy into the opening of the back side to cover up the driver.Or there could be a cable gland big enough to cover it whole killing two birds as you can now pass the wires through it. The opening itself is 20mm.










I like this idea, which I think I will explore some more. Just waiting on parts to arrive. If it works it'll reduce the cost and weight of the build! Thanks.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

borrower said:


> Sweet! I'm personally not a fan of the trustfire batteries since there seem to be so many counterfeit batteries out there that are using the name, but otherwise a really nice tidy build. Thanks for sharing.


Yeah I don't know if these are real or not, I just bought the ones with the most positive reviews. Price wasn't bad either. So far on a charge I would use a set twice for about 1 1/2 hrs on high before recharging.


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## shirk (Mar 24, 2004)

Ah yes thinking about it now you would need reverse thread cut on the 2nd Condulet.

Maybe the conduit coupling could be shortened to make it a bit smaller/lighter.


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## kieron_67 (Mar 23, 2012)

anyone know where i can buy these parts from the uk? i can find the electrical parts but cant seem to find the aluminium parts.

thanks


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

Excellent job Puckedup. The photos along with the concise description makes this a Do-It-Yourself project that anyone can build. Bravo!:thumbsup:


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

Total noob questions here, but I have to ask - this build was so simple and didn't require any fancy tools, i just wanted to make sure i understood all the aspects.

1) would it be necessary ( or recommended ) to heat sink the driver? 
2) should the driver be insulated from the body of the light? Seems like it could make contact with the sides touch the solder joints or just the bottom

sorry if I missed something, but those were the only differences i saw with this build vs. a simple sled build where the driver is physically attached to the body. ( maybe i missed how that is done here - seemed to just be sitting inside attached to the LED and switch by the wires.

thanks!


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

kieron_67 said:


> anyone know where i can buy these parts from the uk? i can find the electrical parts but cant seem to find the aluminium parts.
> 
> thanks


Try electrical outlets that supply companies in the industry. The aluminium parts I got is pretty common which companies use in their construction business. I don't know if the UK has the same electrical standards as Canada / North America but if you do companies there maybe using the same parts.

These parts can not be found in your local hardware stores. But many distributors are willing to sell them to the regular Joe, Westburne is just one of them. Another is Fastenal which I see has distributors in the UK.

Good Luck.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

slcpunk said:


> Total noob questions here, but I have to ask - this build was so simple and didn't require any fancy tools, i just wanted to make sure i understood all the aspects.
> 
> 1) would it be necessary ( or recommended ) to heat sink the driver?
> 2) should the driver be insulated from the body of the light? Seems like it could make contact with the sides touch the solder joints or just the bottom
> ...


Hi slcpunk,

1) You can heat sink the driver but I did not in this case and have not has any issues so far.

2) Yeah didn't think about that. But it's so tight in there that there is a very low chance that it will. But there still a chance so taking caution is always a good thing! Don't want your lights to go out in the middle of you ride. I may have to squeeze some thermal paste in there to keep things still. Thanks!!

I should update that step!


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## odtexas (Oct 2, 2008)

I have never had an issue with the drivers overheating. I don't heat sink mine. 
I do coat all edges and power connections with 5 minute epoxy. The epoxy keeps the driver from ever shorting out against the aluminum. Oxidized aluminum isn't all that conductive to start with though. 
During assembly I usually add a little more 5 minute epoxy to the driver so it glues into one spot. Had a driver that would rattle in one light that I built and it made me crazy.


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## kieron_67 (Mar 23, 2012)

The driver that you've speced has a board on top of the coil, have you modified the board to remove it?

also you state 3/4 coupling which is 19m but it says the driver measures 22mm

is this the correct driver?

thanks


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

kieron_67 said:


> The driver that you've speced has a board on top of the coil, have you modified the board to remove it?
> 
> also you state 3/4 coupling which is 19m but it says the driver measures 22mm
> 
> ...


Hi Kieron 67

The driver I received did not have the top board, don't know if the design has changed but the sku# matched that was on the packaging. I'll guess I'll find out if the ones I received was a mistake as I have ordered some more.

The size of the opening of the 3/4 coupling is 26mm more than enough room for the driver to fit. I don't know where I said it was 19mm?


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## kieron_67 (Mar 23, 2012)

pucked up said:


> Hi Kieron 67
> 
> The driver I received did not have the top board, don't know if the design has changed but the sku# matched that was on the packaging. I'll guess I'll find out if the ones I received was a mistake as I have ordered some more.
> 
> The size of the opening of the 3/4 coupling is 26mm more than enough room for the driver to fit. I don't know where I said it was 19mm?


no you didnt say it was 19mm, i dont work much with things in inches so assumed that the 3/4" was the internal size of the thread which was 19mm, thats my mistake,

thanks for clearing that up


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

For the ones that pm me for trail shots, here's the update.

All shots taken with the following settings:
ISO - 200 (sorry no 100)
WB - Daylight
Shutter - 3s
Manual
Jpeg straight from camera.

No Lights









Handlebar Wide Low (Cool White)









Handlebar Wide High (Cool White)









Helmet Spot Low (Neutral White)









Helmet Spot High (Neutral White)









Both Low









Both High









A second handle bar light was used cool white with a med spot. All 3 on high, two guys are about 60ft away.









Both handle bar lights on high









Hope this helps anyone out there looking at making this light build.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

One more update.

[URL="







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## lavadome (May 10, 2006)

*Wiring the switch to the board ?*

It's probably me, but can someone explain me how you wire the switch to the board and/or batteries to switch between modes ?
I only see two wires going to the board ?

This looks like a build I can see myself completing !
Just try to figure out how to get the aluminum stuff here in europe as these are certainly not standard available here (not even in the industry) They are typical for Canada/ North America.
Got some contacts there though....

Thanks for sharing !:thumbsup:


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## kieron_67 (Mar 23, 2012)

are the switch terminals wired directly to the + and - on the driver so in parallel with the battery?, cant really tell by the pictures how the switch was wired in.

thanks


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Hi Lavadome,

The switch is connected via the positive wire coming from the battery. Thus connecting it to the positive terminal of the driver which is the middle ring.

Hope this picture will help you out.









If you have any other questions just ask.


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## lavadome (May 10, 2006)

Thx !

Now I see ...., Switch is in serie with the battery , just in the positive wire cutting the connection when operated.
It was confusion on the earlier pictures where it looked like the switch was in parallel with the battery.

Thanks again, now try to get the parts sourced....

Lavadome


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## scribble79 (Jul 17, 2012)

Is the switch waterproof?


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

scribble79 said:


> Is the switch waterproof?


The switch itself is not waterproof, but I do cover it with shrink wrap and fill the ends with RTV Silicone to help prevent water from entering. This should make it more water resistant.

I have not gone out for a ride while it's raining so I have not tested how water resistance the switch or the body is. But like I said in build, I have covered all seams (body and wires) with RTV Silicone which should get you home if you're caught out in the rain.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Great write up. Thanks. This will he my first light for riding. Nice affordable way to get out at night.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

machine4321 said:


> Great write up. Thanks. This will he my first light for riding. Nice affordable way to get out at night.


Glad to hear that, good luck on the build. If you run into any issues post them here and I'll try to help you out.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Im going to order up some parts tonight. 

Only have budget for one right now. In your opinion would I be better to start with a wide or spot. I do have a pelican 7060 that is an amazing spot that I could mount to my helmet but it only has about 1.5h runtime. 
Are you in Canada?

Thanks.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Oh and did you use 4 batteries per light or does that run both lights.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

machine4321 said:


> Im going to order up some parts tonight.
> 
> Only have budget for one right now. In your opinion would I be better to start with a wide or spot. I do have a pelican 7060 that is an amazing spot that I could mount to my helmet but it only has about 1.5h runtime.
> Are you in Canada?
> ...


Machine, yes I'm in Canada.

Going spot or wide will be up to you. But the optics are not that expensive so I would buy one of each and try them both. With this build it's easy to swap out the optics.

You can always carry extra batteries for the 7060 if you're planning to go for a longer ride.

Right now I'm using 4 cells per light. I go out twice for about 2hrs before charging them again. I run the lights at high for 90% of my ride. You can use one battery pack for both lights just remember it'll cut down your burn time, 2.5hrs on high before recharging. You'll also need a Y adapter for the power supply. I created one from the original wires I bought from DX sku#15234. But I have since moved to the MS clone wires sku#32751 and use sku#32753 for the Y adapter.

I'm also using a 3 cell battery pack as a friend wanted to use only 3 batteries. I haven't used them, they're more for back up or if someone new comes along and doesn't have their own lights set.

Hope this helps.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Big help. Thanks. Good call on buying both optics. I will be building acouple more when i have more funds. 

I see some cheap "decent" looking lights on ebay and what not but I think I would rather build. At least I know what parts go in. I think my local westburn ruddy closed up so I hope ideal supply has the conduit. 

Thanks again for the write up.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Driver is out of stock. How tight was the fit in the conduit? Trying to find another to use


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## irv_usc (Mar 16, 2011)

shiningbeam.com is a good source for drivers.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

thanks. Didnt see anything near 3a. Closest they had was 2.8a but it was 2v-6v.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

machine4321 said:


> Driver is out of stock. How tight was the fit in the conduit? Trying to find another to use


Try sku#128269 It's what I'm using for my current build. Couldn't wait for the other driver to come back into stock.

There is not much room in there. The only other driver that should fit would be from Taskled. I'll be using them in the future, but they are pricey!

You have about a 29mm wide, 26mm deep area to work with.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Awsome. Thanks again. 

I guess I should order a charger as well.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Yes, you'll need a charger. If you want to cut down your charge time get two. You will be able to charge four batteries within 3-4hrs instead of 6-8hrs.


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## Wiggle (Oct 2, 2012)

This is a great guide. I want to update from my old 2 x P7 setup and this looks perfect. I plan to build two, one with the wider flood and one with a tighter spot as a "high beam" aimed up a bit. I plan on following your design pretty closely but my current battery back is a 4P 18650 setup so it has less voltage than yours obviously. I realize I could rewire it (and get less resistance loss in my cables and more headroom for the driver) but I prefer to keep the parallel arrangement because I feel like it's safer in this scenario since you tend to get dimming rather than sudden cut-out and I can charge the whole bundle together on a traditional 4.2V charger. I also plan on using NW emitters but that is a personal preference.

Can anyone recommend a decent (and not too $$) driver than will drive the XM-L to at least 2.0A, provide well spaced modes and ideally dim rather than cutting out on a 3.7V input?


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Well I cant find the aluminum fittings anywhere. Westburn is out of stock and even then they want 25.00 to ship it. I have checked all the supply stores in town and All I get is funny looks.


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## Gingerdawg (Nov 14, 2007)

machine4321 said:


> Well I cant find the aluminum fittings anywhere. Westburn is out of stock and even then they want 25.00 to ship it. I have checked all the supply stores in town and All I get is funny looks.


Grainger carries them mailorder. Not cheap, though...
Edit, Fastenall carries some, too. There are local Fastenall stores that may or may not stock them.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

machine4321 said:


> Well I cant find the aluminum fittings anywhere. Westburn is out of stock and even then they want 25.00 to ship it. I have checked all the supply stores in town and All I get is funny looks.


Local hardware stores don't carry them. So they will not know what you're talking about.

Where in Canada are you? Is there only one Westburne outlet in your city?

I know Fastenal carries them but this one is made from PVC. Can't find the sku for the aluminum one right now, I'll have to check when I get home.

The manufacture is hubbell-killark you can contact them and see where in your city you can go to purchase them.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Ontario georgian bay area. Only one westburn. I logged in to the website but they are out of stock on a few of the parts. 

As it stands now. 
West burn has the 3/4 coupling
Fastenall can get the r32
Just need the plugs. Fastenall had none in the US


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

All the parts for the body is made by Killark which is part of Hubbell Canada. You can call them and see if there are other companies beside Westburne in your area that has stock. Toll Free: 1.800.465.7051


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## markiemark79 (Feb 14, 2011)

Thanks for making this such an easy project. It seems you know your stuff! One question, is there any alternative to LED Driver sku#57779 - $5
as it seems to be sold out?


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

All good. Called local westburn with part numbers and got someone that wasnt lazy. All good. Had to order from other stores, but thats fine as I imagine deals extrem is going to take abit.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

markiemark79 said:


> Thanks for making this such an easy project. It seems you know your stuff! One question, is there any alternative to LED Driver sku#57779 - $5
> as it seems to be sold out?


Please see post #14.

Use this one sku#128269



machine4321 said:


> All good. Called local westburn with part numbers and got someone that wasnt lazy. All good. Had to order from other stores, but thats fine as I imagine deals extrem is going to take abit.


Good to hear, seems like you're all set.


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## adrenalnjunky (Jul 28, 2007)

pucked up said:


> Please see post #14.
> 
> Good to hear, seems like you're all set.


My last DX order was Aug 26th. It hit New York Aug 30. It set there for weeks - customs, apparently - I received it Sept 26. So yeah - there can be delays.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Another update.

I had a helmet mount from DX sku#32754 and took flashlight holder from DX sku#31871 cut it in half to mount it on the helmet mount. Held on with zip tie and Velcro from the flashlight holder to hold the light in place.

I can now shine the light out on to the trail without moving my head so much.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Nice. I just finished my helmet mount a fe nights ago. Used a sirius sat radio mount. Turned out great. Waiting on drivers to get these finished up. Itching to get riding.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Too high IMO. Depends on your riding locations, but that's a branch catcher on the most trails I ride.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Vancbiker said:


> Too high IMO. Depends on your riding locations, but that's a branch catcher on the most trails I ride.


It is higher than what I would like, but in Southern Ont. there are not many blow downs on the trail I ride most so catching it with a branch is not an issue.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Mine is a bit higher. I will make a lower mount at some point but I just want to get out on the trails atthis point. Most of my trails are also pretty clear of branches.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Nice!


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Another shout out, these lights are great. Just got mine all done today. Had so much faith that i built them and 5 min later was on a 3 hour night ride in the rain(started just as we left ) and i wasnt stopping. No issues to report. Stayed cool and put out great light. 

I am wondering if the drivers that i subbed in are really 3000ma. Specs said 2500-3000. Not sure what that meant. 

Plans are to upgrade wire from the batt holders as its a bit thin for my liking and find a nice way to mount the switches. The heat shrink I had was to thick and wouldnt allow the switch to move.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

That's awesome to hear that the build worked out for you. Also that it held up in the rain! Hadn't had a chance to test it in wet weather.

The trick with the switch and heat shirking is, just get it snug enough so don't apply the heat for to long. Also make sure the switch is off so that the button is on the higher side when the heat is applied. Then fill the open ends with silicon..


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## kevinv89 (Oct 22, 2012)

I've finally found some suppliers in the UK to supply the conduit...I'll be ordering tomorrow and getting my first like underway!


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## chinaman (Jun 8, 2007)

"pucked up"

Cheers for sharing ... :thumbsup:



Now I need to look for suppliers here in the UK ...


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

kevinv89 said:


> I've finally found some suppliers in the UK to supply the conduit...I'll be ordering tomorrow and getting my first like underway!


That awesome, keep us posted on your build.



chinaman said:


> "pucked up"
> 
> Cheers for sharing ... :thumbsup:
> 
> Now I need to look for suppliers here in the UK ...


Maybe kevin can help you out.


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## brankulo (Aug 29, 2005)

any chance you have beam shots using just 2 batteries or even just single battery? 4 pack seems too bulky to carry on my helmet and i dont like wires hanging from my head to keep the battery in backpack. thanks


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## adrenalnjunky (Jul 28, 2007)

brankulo said:


> any chance you have beam shots using just 2 batteries or even just single battery? 4 pack seems too bulky to carry on my helmet and i dont like wires hanging from my head to keep the battery in backpack. thanks


The driver used in the build list has a minimum input voltage of 6volts. If you're talking about lithium, a single cell wouldn't work. A pair of cells might work, but you'd have to be very careful to stay over 6volts.

The number of cells used shouldn't affect brightness as long as the driver stays in regulation.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2


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## irv_usc (Mar 16, 2011)

You could always make a pack using smaller sized cells, like 18350 or 16340.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

pucked up said:


> It is higher than what I would like, but in Southern Ont. there are not many blow downs on the trail I ride most so catching it with a branch is not an issue.


Where are you in Southern Ont?


----------



## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Where are you in Southern Ont?


East of Toronto, Pickering / Ajax area. Lots of great trails just a short drive or about an hours ride away!


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

brankulo said:


> any chance you have beam shots using just 2 batteries or even just single battery? 4 pack seems too bulky to carry on my helmet and i dont like wires hanging from my head to keep the battery in backpack. thanks


Sorry I don't have a two cell pack. I do have a three cell pack, but as other have said, there is no difference in light output. Your run times will vary depending on how many cells you use. Two would be the minimum which gives you around 2hrs on high.

If you want something using only one battery, I would recommend a good flashlight.


----------



## brankulo (Aug 29, 2005)

great thanks, two cells seems reasonable for helmet. btw do battery holders exist for mentioned 18350 or 16340 sizes?


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

brankulo said:


> great thanks, two cells seems reasonable for helmet. btw do battery holders exist for mentioned 18350 or 16340 sizes?


Don't know, you'll have to search on dealextreme.com or the place you get your batteries from. Good luck.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

You could use a 2 pack for the helmut. I may do the same. But I do have the 4 18650 and could carry them a extras. 

Just a note. The chargers I bought are incredibly slow. Like a good 8-9 hours per pair. Thankfully I took Pucked up's advice and bought 2. 

The ones I got charge 18560 and 16340. I had 16340 for another light and it just made sense. I would avoind that charger. I think I read it runs ar 550ma.


----------



## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

pucked up said:


> East of Toronto, Pickering / Ajax area. Lots of great trails just a short drive or about an hours ride away!


I'm in Caledon, right next to Albion Hills and Palgrave. Lots of singletrack out the door.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

If anyone is up for a dangerous night ride, come up to Owen Sound.

Some of the stuff I run into. Its about 25ft deep


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Ofroad'bent said:


> I'm in Caledon, right next to Albion Hills and Palgrave. Lots of singletrack out the door.


Lucky you!

I've only rode Albion once a few years back an O'cup race I think it was. Miss the 24hrs event this year but family members took part in it and had a blast. Came 2nd in their group class. Didn't have these lights ready for that event and didn't know that the Hot Aug Night race was cancelled. I was looking forward to that one which these lights were made for. Oh well next year.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

So I just got my meter on my drivers and they are only running at 2.3a at best. From there it does go down after a few min to 2.285 ish. I assume this is a heat issue. 

This is the driver that I subbed in as the original was out if stock. 

They are still bright but I had a feeling they could do more. I guess this is a "get what you pay for" type thing. Now to find a true 3 amp driver


----------



## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Thanks for the update. Wonder if there is a way to mod this driver so it pushes out closer to 3A?

The first set of lights I created was with the older driver, I don't think it was at 3A also. Side by side they both seem to have the same output. Yeah we get what we pay for, but it is still a lot of light for the price.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Exactly!! No complaints here. Its kinda nice to know theres more room in there

The taskled stuff looks awsone, just wasnt in the budget for a first light.


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## hugh088 (Feb 1, 2004)

*Driver with a middle mode.*

I am going to build one of these regardless but does anybody know of a driver with a higher low mode of a 4 mode driver with a middle mode. Can these things be modified by changing a resistor?

Great design but I've got a wood lathe with a 4 jaw chuck and some carbide tools. Will not take long to clean up the threads and make that pretty as well as usefull .


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

pucked up said:


> Lucky you!
> 
> I've only rode Albion once a few years back an O'cup race I think it was. Miss the 24hrs event this year but family members took part in it and had a blast. Came 2nd in their group class. Didn't have these lights ready for that event and didn't know that the Hot Aug Night race was cancelled. I was looking forward to that one which these lights were made for. Oh well next year.


I was there this year, along wit 6 light sets for my team and other friends. Not often you see an offroad recumbent on the podium there.

I used 1 xm-l on my helmet and a second floodier one on the bars.


----------



## hugh088 (Feb 1, 2004)

*cool white or neutral?*

I was all set to order some LED's to build one of these and don't have the knowledge to select between a cool and neutral LED. I asked my son if he knew anything about LED and he replied "Dad get the neutral, your not cool". Anybody have a more scientific approach to making this choice?


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Neutral will be a more daylight type lighting. The cool will produce more lumens but have a more blueish tint. 

I went with cool and it looks just fine on the trails.


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## Knight511 (Nov 26, 2010)

Color temp is a personal preference. Sunlight is ~5780K for reference and would be considered truly "white" light.

Cree XM-L color temp is rated like this:

Cool white is between 5000K and 8300K. This produces from white to slightly blue-white light.
Neutral white is between 3700K to 5000K. This produces slightly yellow-white to white.
Warm white is between 2600K and 3700K. Thsi produces a pretty yellow-white light.

In automobile lighting, my eyes prefer light between 5000K and 6500K. Based on my experience with automotive lighting, I selected cool white LEDs for my build. Cool or neutral should be fine, but I wouldn't want the warm white personally speaking.... it is far too yellow.... of course, warm white would penetrate foggy conditions better than the others, but I don't ride in fog.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

hugh088 said:


> I am going to build one of these regardless but does anybody know of a driver with a higher low mode of a 4 mode driver with a middle mode. Can these things be modified by changing a resistor?
> 
> Great design but I've got a wood lathe with a 4 jaw chuck and some carbide tools. Will not take long to clean up the threads and make that pretty as well as usefull .


The TaskLed drivers can be programmed to whatever you'd like. I run mine on Multimode, 5 levels of brightness equally spaced visually, with a 3A max. There are other modes where you set each level yourself.

I like the neutral tints, even though the lumen count is less. Better depth perception.


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## Biggles604 (Feb 24, 2009)

Most commercial LED systems use a cool white LED, it's a higher temperature colour, and it's definitely got a bluish hue to it. 

This is my experience: The neutral is a much more natural colour, it is a little warmer in tone. Each has it's advantages and disadvantages. The cool has a slightly better throw length; it seems like it projects deeper into the woods, but at the same time, it washes colours out a lot, so you lose contrast. The neutral doesn't seem quite as bright, but it gives a much more accurate colour illumination, so the contrast seems sharper.
I like them both, but personally, I prefer the neutral.


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## Ryan C. (Jan 23, 2007)

Biggles604 said:


> The neutral doesn't seem quite as bright, but it gives a much more accurate colour illumination


This is correct for most LEDs, including the XM-Ls. Here's a good short article on typical white LEDs and color rendering. The picture of the spectra in the center of the article is worth a thousand words and explains why neutrals show colors/contrast/depth better.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

hugh088 said:


> I was all set to order some LED's to build one of these and don't have the knowledge to select between a cool and neutral LED. I asked my son if he knew anything about LED and he replied "Dad get the neutral, your not cool". Anybody have a more scientific approach to making this choice?


This is cool white on the trail.









This is Neutral white on the trail.









Both of the pictures the lights are on high mode. As other have said, it's really your choice as which one you want to use. I've use and like both, but I do end up using the cool light set more often.


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## Andy13 (Nov 21, 2006)

Are those identical lights, except for the tint? Also it 'appears' that maybe the cool white is pointed down a little which may affect it's appearance of, or lack thereof, throw. I have to say I can see why some builder's love the neutral white. It's not as impressive at first glance but it does look more 'natural'.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Andy13 said:


> Are those identical lights, except for the tint? Also it 'appears' that maybe the cool white is pointed down a little which may affect it's appearance of, or lack thereof, throw. I have to say I can see why some builder's love the neutral white. It's not as impressive at first glance but it does look more 'natural'.


Yes both lights are using xml's. Powered by the same driver and type of batteries. You're right, I had the cool light pointed down more. I've always wanted to re-do the shoot but don't have any time right now.


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## Koollata (Sep 11, 2012)

Has anyone tried sourcing parts from big box stores? I found some items at Home Depot I will try once the LED and driver arrive.

Halex 3/4 in. Rigid Conduit Coupling

Taymac 3/4 in. Metal Closure Plugs, Gray (4-Pack)

I still have a problem trying to find something local to replace the R32 condulet but I'll see what I can do with reducer bushings and possibly some threaded conduit.
Halex 1 in. x 3/4 in. Reducing Bushing
Halex 3/4 in. x 1/2 in. Reducer Bushing

I will also look into some water tight compression joints once the parts arrive.

Please correct me if I'm wrong - I am no electricitian by any means but I thought conduit was non-conductive which is why its used for housing electrical wires.

Btw, great write up!

EDIT: Grainger carries fittings in aluminum
POWER FIRST Rigid Conduit Coupling, 3/4 In, Alum


----------



## irv_usc (Mar 16, 2011)

Well the ones you listed are steel. So yes they will be conductive. Also as far as I know aluminum is much better at conducting heat and would be a better choice.


----------



## Koollata (Sep 11, 2012)

Yeah aluminum has a much higher heat conductance than steel, but would it be significant in this application without being finned? I think the bigger advantage of aluminum in this case would be the weight savings.

(Not trying to sound argumentative - just trying to learn)


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Koollata said:


> Yeah aluminum has a much higher heat conductance than steel, but would it be significant in this application without being finned? I think the bigger advantage of aluminum in this case would be the weight savings.
> 
> (Not trying to sound argumentative - just trying to learn)


Your biggest issue is not so much the heat that the led is producing. You'll be moving and as you are riding your bike will cool the housing. The biggest issue as you've already said is weight. The parts you'll be using is 4 - 5x the weight I've listed. If you can make this work, it's fine if you'll be using them on your handle bars. It will be too heavy to use as a helmet light.

If there is no Westburne where you live, try Fastenal. The 3/4" coupling part #0749523

R32 KILLARK CONDULET

Fastenal seem to be more of an international company.


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## Koollata (Sep 11, 2012)

Thanks for clarifying!


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## hugh088 (Feb 1, 2004)

Try an electrical supply store that deals with electricians. They got it or can get it and they are all over the place. I got my parts in 10 minutes at the shop across the road from the Home Depot after spending twice that long digging through shelves at HD and trying to find someone to help me. Might have spent an extra 50 cents buying it there but the guy behind the counter gave me some good advice and pulled a wire off something and said it was what I wanted for the wire to the battery. He gave it to me for free. Of course my wife was with me and now I be spending a couple of hundred replacing fixtures in the kitchen.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Just wanted to add some voltage info. 

Did a large night ride and got about 3.3h of mostly high. Just got back to the car as it kicked from high to low. Still not 100% sure it was a voltage thing. When I git home the batteries were stilat 3.5v each. This was without load. I will get a with load reading just to see if they dipped down alot more.


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## AdamSean (Aug 30, 2009)

Oh, I have to build this! The results look excellent!


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## schraderlp (Apr 23, 2012)

Does the remote switch have the high and low settings built in? I didn't see anything about that in the build, but all the photos of the lights in action show high and low settings...


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## Biggles604 (Feb 24, 2009)

schraderlp said:


> Does the remote switch have the high and low settings built in? I didn't see anything about that in the build, but all the photos of the lights in action show high and low settings...


It's a click switch. On and off, but you can half press it to get a momentary interruption of power. This momentary off is what switches modes.


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## paul_f (Jan 5, 2006)

kevinv89 said:


> I've finally found some suppliers in the UK to supply the conduit...I'll be ordering tomorrow and getting my first like underway!


Where did you get them from and how much did they cost?

Cheers
Paul


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

machine4321 said:


> Just wanted to add some voltage info.
> 
> Did a large night ride and got about 3.3h of mostly high. Just got back to the car as it kicked from high to low. Still not 100% sure it was a voltage thing. When I git home the batteries were stilat 3.5v each. This was without load. I will get a with load reading just to see if they dipped down alot more.


I finally replaced my broken multimeter today. I tested the voltage on a fresh set of batteries and this is what i got.

No load - 16.7v
On high - 16.2v
On low - 16.5v

I haven't had a chance to go night riding the last couple of wks. I'll test them again after i go for a good night ride.


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## redbeans (Dec 15, 2005)

Great light!

I misplaced my last set of DIY lights in a move, so I'm very happy to find this design. It's got everything that I like... bright, low cost and requiring few tools. I ordered parts today for two lights. It looks like they will take a lot less time to assemble than my past lights.

However, I have one question... Is anyone using rubber o-rings to mount their lights like the Dinotte style lights? It seems like this light is well suited for it.

Like this: http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/diy-dinotte-style-368896.html


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

redbeans said:


> Great light!
> 
> I have one question... Is anyone using rubber o-rings to mount their lights like the Dinotte style lights? It seems like this light is well suited for it.
> 
> Like this: http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/diy-dinotte-style-368896.html


I haven't tried it, but I can't see why it won't work. Good luck on the build and keep us posted.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Im pretty happy with the cheapy dx mounts posted in the build. The lights are nice and small and dont move around. 

With a longer light they are not so good.


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## redbeans (Dec 15, 2005)

I ordered that mount, and I'm planning on trying it for the bar. I'll probably try the rings too and see which one suits me best. I'll definitely be trying to figure out a good way to get that light low on my helmet too. I think the rubber o-rings will help with that.

Thanks for the replies. I'll share a picture if I figure out anything that could advance the cause. Based on shipping from Hong Kong, I'm guessing it will be a while before I start piecing things together.


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## KonCorp (Nov 11, 2012)

The switches you are using are rated at 1.5A while the batteries you have are 2.5A.

Have you run into any issues with them?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

KonCorp said:


> The switches you are using are rated at 1.5A while the batteries you have are 2.5A.
> 
> Have you run into any issues with them?


This design only draws approximately 750mA through the switch.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

KonCorp said:


> The switches you are using are rated at 1.5A while the batteries you have are 2.5A.
> 
> Have you run into any issues with them?


I have not had any issues with this switch. I asked this question in another thread here and I was told as long as I keep the switch between the batteries and driver everything should be fine.

You can use another type of switch, but I wanted to keep the cost down to a minimum for this build.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

pucked up said:


> I finally replaced my broken multimeter today. I tested the voltage on a fresh set of batteries and this is what i got.
> 
> No load - 16.7v
> On high - 16.2v
> ...


*Update:*
It was a nice night today so a few buddies and I went for a ride for about 1.75hrs. I had my lights on high 100% of the ride. Got home and kept the lights on high until it drop to low. The light switched around the 3 hr 20mins mark. Measured and batteries with the following results.

No Load - 13.76v
Low - 13.20v
On High, started at 12.10v and rapidly drop to 11.89v (cut to low) then remained at 4.32v.

So at ~3.5hrs ride time on high, I would recommend a re-charge with these batteries. Still not bad for a low budget build.

I've order some quality batteries and will re-run this test when they arrive. My guess is that I may only get another 60mins with them. So I don't know if the extra cost is worth it.


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## KonCorp (Nov 11, 2012)

pucked up said:


> I have not had any issues with this switch. I asked this question in another thread here and I was told as long as I keep the switch between the batteries and driver everything should be fine.
> 
> You can use another type of switch, but I wanted to keep the cost down to a minimum for this build.


That is what I thought but just wanted to double check. I have all the supplies coming. I have enough for two, after I get them built I will be looking into machining my own housings.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Thats almost exactly what I got. 3h 23min and they both kicked to low.

They run twice as long as my friends light, and im abke to run on bigh the whole time while he is constantly switching down.

Its been a great light. How hot did they get just sitting with no air flow? I didnt have good thermal paste, so I have been alittle weary leaving them on indoors.

And the weather was amazing yesterday. I opted for a day ride as my riding partner was working nights. My area is not the kind of trails you want to be flying through the trails at night alone. Let us know how the better batteries work. I would love to get some task led driver to run a full 3a but there is enough output as they are and I dont want to lose run time.

This is some of te studf I "run into" at night. 

















Yes there is a trail through the moss. It was grippier then I though.


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

Can anyone recommend an alternative source for the DX stuff?
Please include a link for the driver.

I'm OK with paying a little more to save 3 weeks of delivery time.


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## wgr73 (Dec 29, 2006)

Great thread!!!



roxtar said:


> Can anyone recommend an alternative source for the DX stuff?
> Please include a link for the driver.
> 
> I'm OK with paying a little more to save 3 weeks of delivery time.


I agree. Last time I ordered from them it was a massive pain :madman: Took almost a month! :nono:


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## zarniwoop42 (Sep 13, 2009)

Marwi mount.

2x3/4 inch piece of thick plastic cutting board. 
Drill three 1/4 inch holes.
Two cable ties...


----------



## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

machine4321 said:


> How hot did they get just sitting with no air flow?


There is a fan blowing on high just in-front of the light. It gets warm a bit that's all.



zarniwoop42 said:


> Marwi mount.


NICE!
Are you able to tilt the light down with that mount?

I like the helmet mount! Got to try that one.

*Handle bar mount Update:*
I'm using these now for the handle bars.









Bought at MEC (mountain equipment Co-op) $3.50. I like these as the light sit low to the handle bars. I had to sand off some plastic off the base to get the zip ties through. Works great and are firmly attached to the bars.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

roxtar said:


> Can anyone recommend an alternative source for the DX stuff?
> Please include a link for the driver.
> 
> I'm OK with paying a little more to save 3 weeks of delivery time.


Don't know where else to get the DX stuff. But as for drivers, if you're willing to pay more and have more features from the driver you can go with Taskled driver. The B3Flex is the one I would go with and can be found here

You can order as of tomorrow. Good Luck on the build!


----------



## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

pucked up said:


> Don't know where else to get the DX stuff. But as for drivers, if you're willing to pay more and have more features from the driver you can go with Taskled driver. The B3Flex is the one I would go with and can be found here
> 
> You can order as of tomorrow. Good Luck on the build!


Awesome.
Thanks


----------



## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

pucked up said:


> Don't know where else to get the DX stuff. But as for drivers, if you're willing to pay more and have more features from the driver you can go with Taskled driver. The B3Flex is the one I would go with and can be found here
> 
> You can order as of tomorrow. Good Luck on the build!


What do you mean by, "more features"?


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Programable output. Status led to know at what state you voltage is at. I think there is thermal cutoffs and low voltage cutoffs as well.


----------



## zarniwoop42 (Sep 13, 2009)

pucked up said:


> NICE!
> Are you able to tilt the light down with that mount?
> 
> Yes it tilts. There is a bar mount also.
> ...


----------



## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

A little heads up here.
If, like me, you ordered the housing parts from Fastenal, their condulet has a larger opening; too large to hold the optic in. It holds the optic holder but not the optic itself. You will need to either leave the optic holder tabs in place or glue the optic to the holder if using this condulet.
I found out when I put the whole thing together and the optic fell out the front.


----------



## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Lol. Mine is loose but wont fall out. Was it the killark r32 number?


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

machine4321 said:


> Lol. Mine is loose but wont fall out. Was it the killark r32 number?


Yup, the one linked on page 3 or 4


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Hmmm...it's weird that the opening is larger when bought from Fastenal.

To get a tight fit over the optics, first screw down the R32 to the optics before screwing it to the main body.


----------



## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

I still need to put a dab of glue on mine as they rattle abit.


----------



## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

pucked up said:


> Hmmm...it's weird that the opening is larger when bought from Fastenal.
> .


I know, especially considering they're labeled as Killark R32, just like the Westburne sourced piece.
Oh well, not a big deal. Just have to add a bit of super glue to the holder.


----------



## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

Another noob question. The driver just seems to sit in the housing. Am I correct in assuming that it's OK for any part of it (other than the actual soldered + & - connections) to contact the housing?


----------



## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

I stuffe some light foam in there just to hold it in place. The sides o the driver are not conductive. But you are right, the solder joint would cause some issues.


----------



## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

So the coil making contact isn't a problem?


----------



## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

roxtar said:


> So the coil making contact isn't a problem?


How long is the coil?

There should be no issues. If you're worried you can cover the contacts with silicone. The contact points are on a flat surface and it's almost impossible for both to make contact to a round surface.


----------



## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

pucked up said:


> How long is the coil?.


The large gold coil on the driver.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

The wire on the coil has a thin "varnish" for insulation. If that rubs through to the housing it may cause trouble if the housing is not grounded. It will cause trouble if it rubs and the housing. Is grounded. Insulate the coil(and glue it to the board if it is not already) for best reliability.


----------



## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

I always thought that thing was a heatsink for the driver. But so far it hasn't cause me any issues. My first set of light I made I just have the driver sitting inside the body. I've also made them where I have paste the driver (the coil part) to the bottom of the Cup 2 slug opposite of the LED.

With the driver and all the wires, there really isn't much room for it to move around in there.


----------



## adrenalnjunky (Jul 28, 2007)

That's the induction coil:

Inductor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


----------



## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

Just a thought; is there anything in the driver that needs heat dissipation?
What I'm considering is just dipping the whole driver (after soldering the leads, of course) in plastic dip.
This would seal the entire assembly.


----------



## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

God dammit.
After waiting three #[email protected]^**&% weeks for DX to get me the damn driver, I'm soldering it up and one of the leads pulls out of it.
No way in hell do I have the soldering technique (or eyes to even see where it's supposed to go) to get this thing back together. 
FAWK!


----------



## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

I'm not sure what will happen if you dip the driver in plastic. i'm pretty sure that the driver does heat up but never tested it when it's outside the light body.

If you're carefull you can solder the lead back on. It happen to me twice.


----------



## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

pucked up said:


> I'm not sure what will happen if you dip the driver in plastic. i'm pretty sure that the driver does heat up but never tested it when it's outside the light body.
> 
> If you're carefull you can solder the lead back on. It happen to me twice.


I can't even tell where it broke off. It's the black wire.


----------



## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

I have an extra one and will take a picture and post it when I get home. You can use it for reference.

Update: Here is the picture. Hope it works out for you.


----------



## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Updated.


----------



## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

pucked up said:


> I have an extra one and will take a picture and post it when I get home. You can use it for reference.
> 
> Update: Here is the picture. Hope it works out for you.


Awesome, thanks

_Edit: Damn, that's tight_


----------



## JakeS (Jan 20, 2008)

shirk said:


> Cool build.
> 
> Instead of the coupler and second plug could you use two of the Condulet's and join them with the one plug in the middle?
> 
> ...


Hi Shirk

Were you able to source any of these parts in your (our) area?

Jake


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## Muscleflex (Nov 23, 2012)

This is cool! Thanks for posting!


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## Muscleflex (Nov 23, 2012)

Just a question (apologies as I'm a newb),
can you use a lipo to power this?
I'm still waiting on my bike to arrive (Cube LTD Pro)... and i'm looking around for lights and accesories and ideas.
Thanks


----------



## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Muscleflex said:


> Just a question (apologies as I'm a newb),
> can you use a lipo to power this?
> I'm still waiting on my bike to arrive (Cube LTD Pro)... and i'm looking around for lights and accesories and ideas.
> Thanks


Power will be determine by the driver that you use for your build. The one I use for this build will accept batteries with input voltage from 6v - 18v. So if your lipos are within this range, then you can use them.


----------



## shirk (Mar 24, 2004)

JakeS said:


> Hi Shirk
> 
> Were you able to source any of these parts in your (our) area?
> 
> Jake


I have not yet sourced the parts locally. There are a couple electrical supply houses here on the North Shore that should have them, I just have not stopped in. I ordered some drivers AGES ago that just finally arrives late last week. I am debating between this style housing or getting some aluminium with the right ID and copying one of odtexas's style builds.

Now that I finally have all the guts it's time to get on it.


----------



## akpauly86 (Jan 31, 2011)

*Charging batteries*

Hi all,
Just getting all my parts ordered for my light build, just wondering what the best charger would be? Are you taking the batteries (18650) out of the case and charging them in a separate charger, or is there a charger you can just plug the battery pack into?

Thanx, Paul


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

akpauly86 said:


> Hi all,
> Just getting all my parts ordered for my light build, just wondering what the best charger would be? Are you taking the batteries (18650) out of the case and charging them in a separate charger, or is there a charger you can just plug the battery pack into?
> 
> Thanx, Paul


Hey ak,

With my batteries, I charge them in a separate charger. The one I'm using I got from DX and can be found here.

I have 2 chargers so that I can charge four batteries at once.


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## akpauly86 (Jan 31, 2011)

[QUOTEWith my batteries, I charge them in a separate charger. The one I'm using I got from DX and can be found here.

I have 2 chargers so that I can charge four batteries at once.][/QUOTE]

Thanx pucked up!

Pauly


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## Muscleflex (Nov 23, 2012)

DX has sold out out of the driver - do you know of any alternatives?


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

Muscleflex said:


> DX has sold out out of the driver - do you know of any alternatives?


See page 3, post# 52


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## Muscleflex (Nov 23, 2012)

Hey awesome! Thank you!

Can I get all the parts from DX? Instead of different places especially the LED?


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Muscleflex said:


> Hey awesome! Thank you!
> 
> Can I get all the parts from DX? Instead of different places especially the LED?


You can get all the electronic parts from DX as well as the LED. But the parts for the housing can not be bought at DX so use the two companies from page 1.


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## mfos (Nov 1, 2009)

From these great ideas I have modified it somewhat. I cut both the coupler and plug in half which allows plenty of space for the optics, star, and driver. I then capped the end with pvc plug. With battery connecting wire but without switch (coming soon) it only weighs 75 gms and is 4 cm long. Also cut some grooves in coupler for better heat transfer.


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## Muscleflex (Nov 23, 2012)

pucked up said:


> You can get all the electronic parts from DX as well as the LED. But the parts for the housing can not be bought at DX so use the two companies from page 1.


Thanks. Any chance of a link? I know nothing about LEDs - or is there a specific model/type/spec I should be looking for?


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## Muscleflex (Nov 23, 2012)

mfos said:


> From these great ideas I have modified it somewhat. I cut both the coupler and plug in half which allows plenty of space for the optics, star, and driver. I then capped the end with pvc plug. With battery connecting wire but without switch (coming soon) it only weighs 75 gms and is 4 cm long. Also cut some grooves in coupler for better heat transfer.


That looks neat!


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

mfos said:


> From these great ideas I have modified it somewhat. I cut both the coupler and plug in half which allows plenty of space for the optics, star, and driver. I then capped the end with pvc plug. With battery connecting wire but without switch (coming soon) it only weighs 75 gms and is 4 cm long. Also cut some grooves in coupler for better heat transfer.


Nice job.
By making it that compact you may be able to attach the mounting to the rear cap. That way you can mount it toward the front of your helmet, pointing straight out, similar to some of the Niterider models.
This would keep everything nice and low.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

mfos said:


> From these great ideas I have modified it somewhat. I cut both the coupler and plug in half which allows plenty of space for the optics, star, and driver. I then capped the end with pvc plug. With battery connecting wire but without switch (coming soon) it only weighs 75 gms and is 4 cm long. Also cut some grooves in coupler for better heat transfer.


Nice! I wish I had the gear to cut grooves into the coupler.

Give us an update when it's all done.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Muscleflex said:


> Thanks. Any chance of a link? I know nothing about LEDs - or is there a specific model/type/spec I should be looking for?


I don't have any links on DX for the LEDs as I did not get mine from there. If you want to get your LEDs from DX, I would stick with XM-L Leds.


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## Gingerdawg (Nov 14, 2007)

Here is one link. It is for a 6300K XM-L clains only 885lm
Cree XM-L T6 10W 885lm 6300K White Light LED Bulb for Flashlight - Black (3.0~3.5V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

Here is another link, 6000K 885lm 16mm round base. XM-L T6 885LM LED Emitter 6000K White Light Bulb (3.0~3.5V) - Worldwide Free Shipping - DX

One more link, 910lm, no color temp specd XM-LT60 910LM LED White Light Emitter with 18mm Base(2.9~3.5V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme


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## Gingerdawg (Nov 14, 2007)

mfos said:


> From these great ideas I have modified it somewhat. I cut both the coupler and plug in half which allows plenty of space for the optics, star, and driver. I then capped the end with pvc plug. With battery connecting wire but without switch (coming soon) it only weighs 75 gms and is 4 cm long. Also cut some grooves in coupler for better heat transfer.


I planned on doing something similar. I figured I would use a plastic rear plug, too (cuz the aluminum ones are so expensive) and was thinking of cutting the grooves. I have a wood lathe with a crappy cross-slide, and I think I can cut grooves. I didn't think about shortening the whole thing, but my aluminum parts aren't here yet to play with. How cramped is it with 1/2 the body length?
I ordered it all from Zorotools, and it shouyld be here today or tomorrow. I have all the electronic parts.


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## Muscleflex (Nov 23, 2012)

Gingerdawg said:


> Here is one link. It is for a 6300K XM-L clains only 885lm
> Cree XM-L T6 10W 885lm 6300K White Light LED Bulb for Flashlight - Black (3.0~3.5V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
> 
> Here is another link, 6000K 885lm 16mm round base. XM-L T6 885LM LED Emitter 6000K White Light Bulb (3.0~3.5V) - Worldwide Free Shipping - DX
> ...


Thank you! I'm on my way!


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

Muscleflex said:


> Thank you! I'm on my way!


Keep in mind, many are looking for ways to cut out DX, not add to what they get from them.
Shipping times from DX average about 2-3 weeks in my experience. That's the cost for their prices


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## mfos (Nov 1, 2009)

*Continued build*

Here is the completed build. Plenty of room for switch and wires so I ran the battery wire thru the bottom as the only switch I had was moderately large and it was easier to just mount it in the back plastic cap. Notice that I cut down both the threads and back of the cap. Completed unit without battery weighs 80 grams. I used EL134's driver which is simple small,cheap, and which I have set for 3 modes.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Nice!

What did you use to mount it to your helmet strap?

Also, what did you use to cut the parts? Table saw? Ban saw?


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## mfos (Nov 1, 2009)

I use the Marwi mounts and I found these aluminum rods which fit perfectly. They have male end and female end. Found them at local hardware store in drawer marked "screen door" parts. I then just drilled hole in middle of rod and in coupler and mounted with screw.

As for equipment, I cut off the coupler and plugs with a lathe, but it could be done easily with a course toothed hacksaw and then the cut trued with aluminum file (a great and useful tool). 
I held the pieces easily by screwing them onto a steel pipe.

Took the light for it's first ride last nite and it did great. In the 40's and just got a little warm to the touch. I have built several lights including using the Easy2LED units and this is much easier to work with, cheaper,.just as light, and more room to work in. . It is very nice not to do the soldering in a hole. The moveable heat sink is great!


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

Just finished mine:










I machined a different body to work with my replay camera mount.

Thanks again, pucked


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Nice looking light roxtar but I would be really careful trying to fly anywhere with that thing. DId someone say pipe b0mb?

I flew to NZ last year for a couple of days of riding with a large group of mates. On the way home we are sitting in Rotorua airport waiting to board and my name gets called out to come to security. Whilst they knew I had a bike bag they didn't like the profile the xray returned of my luggage bag that contained my batteries and all of the leads. Once I confirmed that it was what they expected, batteries for my bike lights, and emptied my luggage to show them there was no problem and they were very relaxed about it all.


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

Would this be a good switch for this project?
Component - Switch: switch with 13.2V regulator & LED Indicator for HID Bike-lighting (1' long)

Also, is the Trailtech connector shown here the same as the Magicshine shown here?
Action-LED-Lights - 1m Extension Cable


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## TJWilly (Feb 20, 2012)

mfos said:


> Here is the completed build. Plenty of room for switch and wires so I ran the battery wire thru the bottom as the only switch I had was moderately large and it was easier to just mount it in the back plastic cap. Notice that I cut down both the threads and back of the cap. Completed unit without battery weighs 80 grams. I used EL134's driver which is simple small,cheap, and which I have set for 3 modes.


First off, awesome write-up phucked. Thanks!

mfos - Nice play on the design. I am interested in your power modifications. First off, what battery you are using and the wiring choice. I assume that battery is rechargeable? What is it and what time do you get on high power? I like that style of plug. I thought about using SAE but your choice is smaller. What did you use?

I liked phucked's idea of 4 batts but would prefer a more weather tight/durable case for the batteries since I tend to fall from time to time retaining the ability to charge of course.

Pretty new to the battery thing and could use some direction.


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## mfos (Nov 1, 2009)

*Battery /Wire choice*

I am a weight weenie so am going for the most simple setup that is cheap to make. For helmet lights I use one Li-Ion 18650 3.6v battery (yes it is rechargeable) which gives me about an hour on high (2800ma) and more than three hours on medium (800ma). I carry a spare battery to use if needed. The photo shows battery prior to being coated with Plasti Dip.

For Bar light use same setup but have a 2 battery pack. The combo gives me plenty of light.
In fact when I get back to the vehicle the truck lights look dim by comparison.

The connectors are MS connectors and can be found on DX. I get the ones with the split connector as this lets me do an extra battery.


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## Andy13 (Nov 21, 2006)

mfos - Love your helmet battery. Makes perfect sense to keep it lightweight. I assume you are soldering the leads onto the batteries. Any issues w/ doing this? I have heard others say this isn't an issue w/ a decent powered solder station, just wondering if you have any tips. Thanks.


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## TJWilly (Feb 20, 2012)

mfos said:


> I am a weight weenie so am going for the most simple setup that is cheap to make. For helmet lights I use one Li-Ion 18650 3.6v battery (yes it is rechargeable) which gives me about an hour on high (2800ma) and more than three hours on medium (800ma). I carry a spare battery to use if needed. The photo shows battery prior to being coated with Plasti Dip.
> 
> For Bar light use same setup but have a 2 battery pack. The combo gives me plenty of light.
> In fact when I get back to the vehicle the truck lights look dim by comparison.
> ...


Thanks my friend. Just what I needed.

Nice and simple... easy on the head and a spare could be switched out easily. I guess it depends on light output. Meaning, if you went 2s1p would your light be brighter?


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## mfos (Nov 1, 2009)

> mfos - Love your helmet battery. Makes perfect sense to keep it lightweight. I assume you are soldering the leads onto the batteries. Any issues w/ doing this? I have heard others say this isn't an issue w/ a decent powered solder station, just wondering if you have any tips. Thanks.


Not a problem ANDY13. Just work quickly and of course use eye protection.



> Nice and simple... easy on the head and a spare could be switched out easily. I guess it depends on light output. Meaning, if you went 2s1p would your light be brighter?


TJWilly - Others would be much more knowledgeable than me about this but it is my understanding that brightness is a determined more by amperage than voltage which is determined by settings in the driver. One LED drawing 2800ma uses one battery faster than two.....etc. Lots of good expert discussions here on that on these forums. My driver only supports 3.6v (charged to 4.2v) and a high setting drawing 2800ma., so I keep it simple.


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## McBain01 (Feb 17, 2012)

Hi There
Im new to charging 18650's can I use a Swallow EQ Charger i have for model planes to charge a pack fof 4x 2800mah @ 14.4 V in the battery holder mentioned here in this thread?


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Had some time over the weekend, I didn't do any biking so I build a couple more lights. This time I ended up using some parts I didn't use in the original build. I replace the Cup 2 slug at the bottom with the sliding closet door thingy that's on page one with a cable gland through it.










Basically I drilled a 1/2" hole into the closet door thing so that the cable gland would fit through it. Sanded out some of the retaining nut from the gland so it would fit inside the depression of the closet thingy. Lock the gland into place and place it into the light body. You'll have to lighty hammer out some of the closet thingy sides to make it stay in place. Everything else is the same.

These were parts I had that I couldn't use on my first build. I wanted to put the cable gland through the Cup 2 but was too thick. I would have to cut the Cup 2 but can't seem to find my hacksaw!

The cable gland was bought from DX, 10 pack was about $5.

It's great to see the different ideas people come up with, with this build. Great Job!


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

TJWilly said:


> Meaning, if you went 2s1p would your light be brighter?


If you use a 2S1P pack with the driver that mfos is using, you'll burn it out as it can only have an input voltage of 3.7V (4.2v fully charged). The number of batteries you use will depend on the driver you use. The driver I use in this build will take anywhere from 6v - 18v.

So if you use a 2S1P with this build, you'll get about 2hrs run time on high. Using a 4S1P will double that, give or take.

If you want the light to be brighter, that'll depend on the drivers output. A driver with a 3000mA output will be brighter that one that only has a 2000mA output. The driver on this build was measured by machine and it puts out about 2300mA, which is more than enough for me.


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## TJWilly (Feb 20, 2012)

mfos said:


> TJWilly - Others would be much more knowledgeable than me about this but it is my understanding that brightness is a determined more by amperage than voltage which is determined by settings in the driver. One LED drawing 2800ma uses one battery faster than two.....etc. Lots of good expert discussions here on that on these forums. My driver only supports 3.6v (charged to 4.2v) and a high setting drawing 2800ma., so I keep it simple.





pucked up said:


> If you use a 2S1P pack with the driver that mfos is using, you'll burn it out as it can only have an input voltage of 3.7V (4.2v fully charged). The number of batteries you use will depend on the driver you use. The driver I use in this build will take anywhere from 6v - 18v.
> 
> So if you use a 2S1P with this build, you'll get about 2hrs run time on high. Using a 4S1P will double that, give or take.
> 
> If you want the light to be brighter, that'll depend on the drivers output. A driver with a 3000mA output will be brighter that one that only has a 2000mA output. The driver on this build was measured by machine and it puts out about 2300mA, which is more than enough for me.


Thanks guys. I understand now.


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## Muscleflex (Nov 23, 2012)

you guys will need to start selling these as i'd love to have one!!!


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Muscleflex said:


> you guys will need to start selling these as i'd love to have one!!!


I was thinking of selling them at first. But after looking at some options from overseas, it would not be in my best interest to do so. I'll most likely loose time / money in the end. Which is why I just laid it all out for everyone to build their own.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Yay for chinas ability to demotivate the little guy for once it helped. 

Im pretty thankfull you posted the build. Got the ball rolling for me to get my feet wet. 

If your ever near collingwood or owensound, let me know. We can gonfor a ride.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

machine4321 said:


> Yay for chinas ability to demotivate the little guy for once it helped.
> 
> Im pretty thankfull you posted the build. Got the ball rolling for me to get my feet wet.
> 
> If your ever near collingwood or owensound, let me know. We can gonfor a ride.


Wasn't really demotivated. Just wasn't worth my time selling. For me to sell these say for around $100 + shipping, you can get some nice lights at that price from Action LED or GloWorm.

Glad everyone that has tried this build has been successful so far. The hardest part is waiting for parts to arrive from DX!

I'll let you know if and when I'll be in Collingwood, may not be for another six months bike wise. Time to get my snowboard out!

Hmmm...night snowboarding?


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

*[B]Panasonic 18650 update[B\]*

I got some quality brand cells (Panasonic 3100mah protected 18650) from DX. I learn that these are real Panasonic's cell which another company then installs the PCB on them. This info can be found here .

I only test the run times on high and the results are:

4 cells - 4.75hrs 
3 cells - 3hrs 50mins

Test was done in front of a fan running on medium and light body was cool to the touch.

Sorry no test for 2 cells, I do not have a 2 cell battery holder. But I would say you'll get a little over 2hrs run time on them. Overall not bad.

Is it worth the extra price? That's up to you.

4 x Panasonic 3100mah cells = $35.20 (4.75hrs run time)
4 x Trustfire 2500mah cells = $13.88 (3.5hrs run time, rounded up)
Difference = $21.32 (1.25hrs)

With the driver I use for this build only pushing out ~2300ma I would likely stay with the Trustfire cells. If the driver was pushing out ~2500 - 3000ma I would go with the Panasonic cells for the longer run times.

Future test: Taskled driver, sometime next year. Maybe!


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Thanks for the runtimes on the better cells. I am going to try the 3x xml ebay cheapy with a task led at 3amp and an 8 cell pack(I like at least 3 hours for night rides as we tend to explore) 

For the price of the trustfires they have very decent run times.


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## beecrazy (Jun 20, 2011)

Has anyone found a good USA source for 18650s that are reasonably priced? Reading about an issue with China and airfreight with Li-Ion batteries may mean a delay???? (this was in the other light forum about BAK batteries)

I ordered stuff from DX over 3 weeks ago and still hasn't showed up..... hopefully before Christmas so I can tinker on my first light. (driver and switch) Can't imagine how much more of a delay with the Li-Ion news.....

I haven't ordered any battery components and won't until I have a driver in hand, just incase it doesn't show up! Darn- I should have ordered the batteries 3 weeks ago with the rest:madman:


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## random walk (Jan 12, 2010)

beecrazy said:


> Has anyone found a good USA source for 18650s that are reasonably priced? Reading about an issue with China and airfreight with Li-Ion batteries may mean a delay???? (this was in the other light forum about BAK batteries)


I got these sources from another thread here. I haven't purchased from them since I'm currently well-stocked on DX batteries, but may get a couple Panasonics in the near future.

2 Panasonic 3100s for $19 seems decent, with free shipping:
New 2X Panasonic 18650 3 6V 3100mAh Rechargeable Li ion Battery 2 NCR Batteries | eBay

(^^There is a link to the protected version of these cells in the ad.)

Lower prices here, even with shipping, and there are options for higher or lower capacities:
ONLY BATTERY ORDERS for YOUR BLF US-BASED BATTERY SUPPLIER | BudgetLightForum.com


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

Delete because not available


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## beecrazy (Jun 20, 2011)

random walk said:


> I got these sources from another thread here. I haven't purchased from them since I'm currently well-stocked on DX batteries, but may get a couple Panasonics in the near future.
> 
> 2 Panasonic 3100s for $19 seems decent, with free shipping:
> New 2X Panasonic 18650 3 6V 3100mAh Rechargeable Li ion Battery 2 NCR Batteries | eBay
> ...


Thanks for the quick reply, and thank you Pucked Up for kick starting my new obsession!

I am looking forward to Very Easy XM-L Build turned not so easy....


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

beecrazy said:


> Thanks for the quick reply, and thank you Pucked Up for kick starting my new obsession!
> 
> I am looking forward to Very Easy XM-L Build turned not so easy....


The BLF seller can't ship outside USA.


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## PeopleForScience (May 15, 2012)

Deal extreme is a joke, I highly recommend you find another source. I ordered parts from them and the envelope was stuffed so full that it tore open before landing in my mail box. I lost over 40 in inventory and they want me to ask the USPS for compensation. Then the USPS is blaming the envelope being too full. Its a huge circle jerk and I'm at the back, I'm taking my business elsewhere. On a side note, OP thanks for the sweet post. Its posts like this that make mtbr enjoyable.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Ofroad'bent said:


> The BLF seller can't ship outside USA.


Yeah, I wish they would to ship to Canada, cause I would buy from them in a sec!

One thing I learn from buying from DX is to break up your order. It free shipping, so try not to have everything in one big order. 3pks of batteries is the most I would put in one order. Then create another order that is next on my list. Also I think this is their busy season so orders may take a little longer to get here!

You guys are lucky that you're only waiting weeks. One of my orders took 3mths to arrive!


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Pucked, if we needed to we should organize a big US order some time and get one of our buddies to ship it over to Ontario. We could do Cateye mounts, DigiKey battery holders, BLF batteries...
I've had to find various solutions over the years.

I wish someone like Zemike could put things like this on his online store, so at least we could order from one place.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Pucked, if we needed to we should organize a big US order some time and get one of our buddies to ship it over to Ontario. We could do Cateye mounts, DigiKey battery holders, BLF batteries...
> I've had to find various solutions over the years.
> 
> I wish someone like Zemike could put things like this on his online store, so at least we could order from one place.


Sounds like a plan. I will not be needing anything until sometime next year. My building for this year is done.


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## KonCorp (Nov 11, 2012)

If I wanted to run two of these from one driver what would you recommend, also would I just run the batteries as 4S2P?


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

Does the DX driver in this build have temp sensing capability?


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

KonCorp said:


> If I wanted to run two of these from one driver what would you recommend, also would I just run the batteries as 4S2P?


You could run them that way, you'll have to wire up the two leds together. Is the purpose to use only one battery pack? If so, it may be easier to build two sets of lights, each with it's own driver and get the Y adapter so you can run both lights with only one battery pack. I use this when I ride with 2 lights on my bars.



roxtar said:


> Does the DX driver in this build have temp sensing capability?


I don't think the DX driver has that feature, but I could be wrong.


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## KonCorp (Nov 11, 2012)

pucked up said:


> You could run them that way, you'll have to wire up the two leds together. Is the purpose to use only one battery pack? If so, it may be easier to build two sets of lights, each with it's own driver and get the Y adapter so you can run both lights with only one battery pack. I use this when I ride with 2 lights on my bars.


I was looking at building up a different housing that would hold two xml leds. I will just make a new thread as not to take this one off topic. Thanks


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## TJWilly (Feb 20, 2012)

Hey everyone... I finished my build a few days ago. Finally got to ride tonight.

I am impressed.

My observations:

1. One 2400mah battery gave me 40 something mins on high before the lamp dropped to low which is hardly usable.
2. I used the 20mm Carlco 12.4° optics. I find with my build this to be really nice at throwing light on the trail, however, I could still use more of a spot. 
3. This is the driver I am using: https://illuminationsupply.com/8xamc7135-304a-selectable-mode-driver-p-142.html
4. For power, I have the blue UltraFire 2400mah batts. (sourced from Amazon.com)
5. My build is 4oz with out batteries. My (new) 3 battery pack weighs 5.5oz with a longer cable to stash in the pack.

I used this light only. No bar light or anything else and I could ride our tight single track with zero visibility issues. (I brought a spare battery pack (a single) and switched to it along the way.) But my little light seems better suited on a bar.

If I ever find my battery charger for the Nikon 3100, I'll take some proper beam pics.

*Can y'all make any recommendations to help me get a better spot out of this light?*

Thanks.

Pics:




























Cut an old tube to wrap the batteries.









Once I get a lathe, I would turn down and face off the conduit to improve appearance. Maybe shorten the rear plug a bit.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

TJWilly said:


> *Can y'all make any recommendations to help me get a better spot out of this light?*


If you have room (depth) for a Regina reflector, it may tighten it up some. My experience with Carclo optics is they always seem to have more flood than the spec's would indicate. The Regina is 20mm diameter so that should fit. It is deeper than the Carclo by a bit and you will need a cover for it adding another mm or so.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

TJWilly said:


> 3. This is the driver I am using: https://illuminationsupply.com/8xamc7135-304a-selectable-mode-driver-p-142.html
> 
> *Can y'all make any recommendations to help me get a better spot out of this light?*
> 
> Thanks.


Hey TJ, as Van has already said, the only way to improve the spot is to go with a reflector.

One note...I see the driver that you are using has a max input voltage of 6V. Is your 3 cell pk a 1S3P? If not you'll have a 11.1V pack, which will blow out your driver.

Any ways glad you like the build!!


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## TJWilly (Feb 20, 2012)

Vancbiker said:


> If you have room (depth) for a Regina reflector, it may tighten it up some. My experience with Carclo optics is they always seem to have more flood than the spec's would indicate. The Regina is 20mm diameter so that should fit. It is deeper than the Carclo by a bit and you will need a cover for it adding another mm or so.


Thanks. I'll look into it.

And right... I was rather surprised when I saw the degree illumination advertised was 12. (I went back and looked at it!)


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## zarniwoop42 (Sep 13, 2009)

*Mini by hacksaw*

So I found the 3/4" coupling to be a perfect snug fit in the Park steerer tube cutting guide. Using the guide I was able to make a good square cut on the coupling. I then threaded a cup-2 plug part way into the coupling and cut off two-ish threads of the cup-2. The cup-2 is difficult to cut square with a hacksaw...

I used the small half(?) of the cup-2 to plug the back and the large piece for the heat sink.

I use the 2.8 amp driver from EL34. The Anderson Powerpole connectors, switch and Marwi mounts were also purchased from EL34. No two month wait here. Thanks EL34!

LED and optics are same as OP.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

zarniwoop42 said:


> so i found the 3/4" coupling to be a perfect snug fit in the park steerer tube cutting guide. Using the guide i was able to make a good square cut on the coupling. I then threaded a cup-2 plug part way into the coupling and cut off two-ish threads of the cup-2. The cup-2 is difficult to cut square with a hacksaw...
> 
> I used the small half(?) of the cup-2 to plug the back and the large piece for the heat sink.
> 
> ...


genius!


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

zarniwoop42 said:


> So I found the 3/4" coupling to be a perfect snug fit in the Park steerer tube cutting guide. Using the guide I was able to make a good square cut on the coupling. I then threaded a cup-2 plug part way into the coupling and cut off two-ish threads of the cup-2. The cup-2 is difficult to cut square with a hacksaw...
> 
> I used the small half(?) of the cup-2 to plug the back and the large piece for the heat sink.
> 
> ...


Awesome build!!


----------



## TJWilly (Feb 20, 2012)

pucked up said:


> Hey TJ, as Van has already said, the only way to improve the spot is to go with a reflector.
> 
> One note...I see the driver that you are using has a max input voltage of 6V. Is your 3 cell pk a 1S3P? If not you'll have a 11.1V pack, which will blow out your driver.
> 
> Any ways glad you like the build!!


Hey Phucked up... Yep I built 1s3p packs based on an earlier question I had in the thread. Thanks for posting up though. A few days ago, I would have been the proud owner of a toasted driver. 

I am trying to source a regina optic now to try out.


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## TJWilly (Feb 20, 2012)

zarniwoop42 said:


> So I found the 3/4" coupling to be a perfect snug fit in the Park steerer tube cutting guide. Using the guide I was able to make a good square cut on the coupling. I then threaded a cup-2 plug part way into the coupling and cut off two-ish threads of the cup-2. The cup-2 is difficult to cut square with a hacksaw...
> 
> I used the small half(?) of the cup-2 to plug the back and the large piece for the heat sink.
> 
> ...


I sit here lol'ing. I just measured out and sketched almost that exact design. I came to it because I shorted myself some material in my order. I was a little worried about space but I am glad to see it worked. It looks great. I was on the fence with my mounting choice.

Looks like you chose a 1s2p pack since I think EL34 uses the same driver that I picked up. What mah did you go with? On bright with that driver I got about 45 mins on high with one 2400mah 18650. (I forgot to start my watch when I started so it could have been a little bit more)

Heat was a non issue for me. I used the cheap Dynex or whatever that is Best Buy has for heat sink paste. I have some artic silver epoxy paste now.

I have SAE plugs, but those anderson plugs look really nice. SAE is a firm connection. How tight are the anderson style connectors? Never used them. They look less expensive.

We'll see.

Awesome job. Looks great. Did you use some cutting board trimmed down on that mount? That was my plan with some o-ring tabs/hooks.

Great job on those cuts.

Curious. What size cable gland did you go with?

Great minds think alike!


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## zarniwoop42 (Sep 13, 2009)

TJWilly,

Yes, the battery is a 1s2p 5200mah that I purchased from batteryspace. I installed the powerpoles and then dunked the pack in Plasti-Dip.

The Powerpoles have a not so firm connection. There exists retention clips that I feel should be used when mountain biking.

My wife has one of EL34's converted Marwi lights. I decided to use the Powerpoles and the driver he sells because I could use the wife's charger and the batteries would also be interchangeable. The Powerpoles are also inexpensive and easy to work with.

Here is EL34's info for the Powerpole.
LED Bike Lights 27

I have some Arctic paste but on this light I used HexaTherm from Ledsupply.
HexaTherm Tape - LED Supply.com
I don't know how good this stuff is but I plan to find out.

The cable gland is a pg7.

Yes, the white piece on the mount is made from a thick plastic cutting board. Cut a shallow groove in the side that touches the light which gives the light a track to lay in thereby discouraging unwanted side-to-side movement.

If you make a o-ring mount, please post some pics!


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## TJWilly (Feb 20, 2012)

zarni,

I used a spent tube (29er) to wrap my batteries in as it was less expensive but the plastidip looks good. The dip I have used in the past seem to have poor consistency. Which brand did you use? 

Thanks for the info on the powerpoles. These clips, do they not come with the connectors? I'll check out that link.

Will do on the pics!

Thanks,
Phil


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## Muscleflex (Nov 23, 2012)

got my drivers from DX - just need to order the LED from somewhere else. (OP's shop does not ship to the UK I don't think)

I have never heard of these batteries you guys are using... when I hear about lipos, I think of the ones I use for my rc helis - those 3cell lipos (11.1v).. can I use them? the ones you're all linking look like pen-cell batteries (AA)


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## zarniwoop42 (Sep 13, 2009)

TJ,

The Plasti-Dip I used is Performix brand. I've been happy with the couple batteries I have coated.

No, the retention clips are not included with the Powerpoles. EL34 included one with the light that I bought from him. I'm not sure if he sells them. I have not seen them on his web store.

Powerpoles are used in many applications and most would not require these clips.
Road riding is fine without the retention clips but I would feel safer using them while riding singletrack. 

The part # seems to be 110G68.


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## TJWilly (Feb 20, 2012)

Muscleflex said:


> got my drivers from DX - just need to order the LED from somewhere else. (OP's shop does not ship to the UK I don't think)
> 
> I have never heard of these batteries you guys are using... when I hear about lipos, I think of the ones I use for my rc helis - those 3cell lipos (11.1v).. can I use them? the ones you're all linking look like pen-cell batteries (AA)


Generally lipo batteries are more volatile than Lithium Ion batts... which is what the 18650s are we are using. Lithium Ion batts are different than those we use with our R/C rigs.


----------



## TJWilly (Feb 20, 2012)

zarniwoop42 said:


> TJ,
> 
> The Plasti-Dip I used is Performix brand. I've been happy with the couple batteries I have coated.
> 
> ...


Got it. Thanks for the info and the part #.


----------



## Muscleflex (Nov 23, 2012)

Just an off topic question - the driver, can i use it for any LED types? non cree models?


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## Muscleflex (Nov 23, 2012)

I got my drivers on Friday - so I've only just started looking for the LED here in the UK.
Are these the same as what you've linked on your original post? the photo looks different (my link does not have the star board. only the LED it seems)
XMLAWT-00-0000-0000T6053 Cree, Inc. | Mouser

but it's the same part number from Cree. (sorry i'm new to LEDs)


----------



## Muscleflex (Nov 23, 2012)

sorry for flooding this thread. is this the same led? NEW! Cree Single-Die XM-L LED T6 w/ 20mm Star Base | eBay


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Muscleflex said:


> got my drivers from DX - just need to order the LED from somewhere else. (OP's shop does not ship to the UK I don't think)


Try Cutter Electronics they have more selections and also ships to the UK.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Muscleflex said:


> sorry for flooding this thread. is this the same led? NEW! Cree Single-Die XM-L LED T6 w/ 20mm Star Base | eBay


Yes you can use this for your build. Having the led on a 20mm star base is much easier to work with than just having the led by itself. But both can be used, you just have to be more careful working with the bare led without the star base.


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## Muscleflex (Nov 23, 2012)

Thanks Pucked! You and everyone else been more than helpful!

Do the star base do nothing then? apart from enlarging the surface to solder connections to? Meaning I can get the bare LEDs and solder directly to them or I really need the star pcb?


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## random walk (Jan 12, 2010)

I just got the last of my part orders to build this light (helmet version).

I plan to put the switch & driver in a flanged box like Marpilli did in the Cateye Double Shot upgrade thread. So I can probably cut the Alu coupler down fairly short, just for wire management. I got a Schedule 80 threaded cap to close up the back & provide for cable entry.

Holy crap, the star & driver are tiny. Glad I have one of these laying around:


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

I've been using mine for a few rides now and it puts out a nice flood-like beam; even with the "plain tight"Carclo.
Can anyone here recommend a more focused, tighter, spot style optic for this build?
Oh, and please make it from a US based company. I'm in my 4th week of waiting for three more drivers from DX.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I put a link to my favourite XM-L optic on the Parts and Suppliers sticky thread.

Most of us seem to like them.
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/good-xml-optic-804436.html


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## zarniwoop42 (Sep 13, 2009)

*Good XML optic*

My vision is terrible, but it looks like those are all sold. Correct me if I am wrong.

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/good-xml-optic-804436.html


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I guess we all bought them out. I've contacted the vendor to see if they have more.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

I too, find the plain tight to be a bit wide. 

When I ordered the optics i got the 2 Pucked had as well as a wider optic. It is just much fill to be usefull on the trails. The original optics do a fine job though.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Ofroad'bent said:


> I guess we all bought them out. I've contacted the vendor to see if they have more.


I hope it gets re-stocked in the new year, I would like to try it out.

As for a tighter optics, I don't think there is one on the market right now. The only thing I can think of to make it tighter and may throw a bit further maybe a aspherical lens.

How fast do you guys ride? I go pretty fast and still have enough light a head of me. Now I usually only ride trails that I know at night which may be the reason why I can ride at the speed I do.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

pucked up said:


> Now I usually only ride trails that I know at night which may be the reason why I can ride at the speed I do.


Knowing or not knowing a trail makes a difference to me. I frequently night ride trails that are new to me or ones that I ride very infrequently. Not knowing what is coming up has me scanning as far ahead as possible with the helmet light. I can drop the alertness level (and light level) down a notch when on familiar ground.


----------



## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

pucked up said:


> I hope it gets re-stocked in the new year, I would like to try it out.
> 
> As for a tighter optics, I don't think there is one on the market right now. The only thing I can think of to make it tighter and may throw a bit further maybe a aspherical lens.


I contacted the vendor, and they do have more. They'll send you an invoice if you ask them. They got back to me immediately, so I ordered 5 more. Another item I'd like to see at the 1-stop DIY shop of my dreams.


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## Travisandcindy (Dec 21, 2012)

So I am new to getting a light and had some questions. I like the idea of making my own and this thread is cool. I was looking at a 1200 lumen light on amazon that is about $34. I read the reviews below and all agreed that the light puts out tons of light.

It seems to me that the main griping points from the reviews below were that the battery life was lacking, or wouldn't hold a charge, or something to that effect. 

Questions:
Is it a good idea to buy this light and use it as a starting point and build a battery as you guys have outlined here and attach it to the existing light? Pros/cons?

Am I better off to start from scratch and build my own?

Thanks in advance,
Travis


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## random walk (Jan 12, 2010)

The biggest con to starting from scratch and building your own is the wait before you can get on the trails with it, especially if you buy from China this time of year -- the shipping times can be several weeks.

If cost is an issue: when all is said and done (parts, batteries, shipping & taxes, etc.) you'll be around double what you'd pay for that light on Amazon; somewhat less, if you buy from places like DealExtreme. I'm already into it for around $57 and that doesn't include batteries (I already have) or the mount (I haven't bought yet). I did buy a few extra parts, though; but I bought my electronics and optics from USA stores so that accounts for at least $10 more than the OP got his from DX.

Those lights from Amazon, etc. are great deals, but the comments about battery construction make my wary. Not as much for the potential of things going bad when charging, but mainly just having a pack failure when out riding -- if you're not prepared with a backup, you could be screwed. That said, I ride with folks who have them and they've had no problems.

In the forum above this (Lights & Night Riding) there are threads about similar lights, in the ~$40 range. You should research these to see what is getting positive reviews.

So a nice middle ground, as you already suggested, is to buy a light like that and also build a reliable battery pack to alternate with the other one. Lots of great info in this forum on how to do it. If your original pack goes south, you've got a replacement. And you'll have educated yourself on the configuration and construction of a battery pack.

And then you can work on building up another light during the times you're not out enjoying night riding


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

My next light is going to be a china light. I will. Be using a better battery pack and hopefully a better driver. 

For the price of them, you cant go wrong for the price, unless it dosent work. Its a quick and cheap way to get on the trails and see if you like it........You will!!


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

You don't build lights for economic reasons anymore. Just a few years ago it made sense, but no longer. If you appreciate quality beyond what is outwardly visible, the chinese lights might not be for you. If you like building things and like to tinker, then building might be for you. Buying a lighthead and building your own battery is a great intro IMO.


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## S2kTim (Dec 7, 2012)

Very interested in doing this, and glad to see people are still able to order these items that appear to be out of stock


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## njsanna (Nov 10, 2008)

*what battery pack to use with this?*

Great stuff here in this thread looks like a perfect first DIY light. This will be a first high power light for me as I am starting to get the desire to ride more trail at night.I can handle the electronics build side of this but I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around the battery power. I'm not confident enough to put together my own mainly because I don't know exactly what to get for this setup, so I've been looking here : 
batteryspace.com/14.8V-2000mAh-2600mAh-Battery-Modules.aspx
(sorry not above 10 posts yet)

Can someone reccommend a good pack from this page or point me to another page with better options...same price point would be good as well.
Trying to avoid DealExtreme as well and put atleast some of my dollars here in the states.

I'm planning on using the TaskLED b3flex driver with the XM-L and then everything else as listed on the first post. So my voltage range is pretty wide. I am however trying to stick it all into one of these:
usa.zefal.com/products_led_light_set.htm]products_led_light_set.jpg
Because everything measures out to be about the right size, and I have it laying around and it doesn't work....heat may be an issue but we'll cross that bridge when we come to it.

any advice on the battery pack would be awesome.

Thanks


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## random walk (Jan 12, 2010)

njsanna said:


> Great stuff here in this thread looks like a perfect first DIY light. This will be a first high power light for me as I am starting to get the desire to ride more trail at night.I can handle the electronics build side of this but I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around the battery power. I'm not confident enough to put together my own mainly because I don't know exactly what to get for this setup, so I've been looking here :
> batteryspace.com/14.8V-2000mAh-2600mAh-Battery-Modules.aspx
> (sorry not above 10 posts yet)
> 
> ...


If I'm not mistaken, with a b3Flex driving one XML you'll need an input voltage of > 4.2V so a 7.4V pack would be appropriate, something from this page: 7.4V 1900mAh - 5200mAh Battery Modules

Maybe it's an optical illusion, but that Zefal light body looks pretty small -- will it fit the b3Flex?


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## njsanna (Nov 10, 2008)

random walk said:


> If I'm not mistaken, with a b3Flex driving one XML you'll need an input voltage of > 4.2V so a 7.4V pack would be appropriate, something from this page: batteryspace.com/7.4V-1900mAh---5200mAh-Battery-Modules.aspx]7.4V 1900mAh - 5200mAh Battery Module
> 
> Maybe it's an optical illusion, but that Zefal light body looks pretty small -- will it fit the b3Flex?


thanks...
so 7.4v is enough? is the goal then to get the highest mAh at the lowest voltage? I dont know why the battery stuff confuses me as i continue to read this forum non stop....everything else i understand.

you are very right about the diameter...i just checked taskled site and it lists size at 1" The zefal body is only 20mm ID and the head is 25mm. For some reason i was thinking the b3flex was 19mm. Thanks for the heads up.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

njsanna said:


> thanks...
> so 7.4v is enough? is the goal then to get the highest mAh at the lowest voltage? I dont know why the battery stuff confuses me as i continue to read this forum non stop....everything else i understand.
> 
> you are very right about the diameter...i just checked taskled site and it lists size at 1" The zefal body is only 20mm ID and the head is 25mm. For some reason i was thinking the b3flex was 19mm. Thanks for the heads up.


An l-flex will fit. You ca drive 1 XML with a 3.7v battery pack with the l-flex.


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

Found another, US based, option for drivers:

[URL]https://illuminationsupply.com/8xamc7135-304a-selectable-mode-driver-p-142.html?zenid=88c0d982331f9ea775a2624baa697c44

It does look like you have to change the battery setup as this driver seems to be limited to 6V input. Does anyone see anything else that might make this a less desirable option?


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## zarniwoop42 (Sep 13, 2009)

roxtar said:


> Found another, US based, option for drivers:
> 
> [URL]https://illuminationsupply.com/8xamc7135-304a-selectable-mode-driver-p-142.html?zenid=88c0d982331f9ea775a2624baa697c44
> 
> It does look like you have to change the battery setup as this driver seems to be limited to 6V input. Does anyone see anything else that might make this a less desirable option?


You can use a 3.7 volt battery with this driver.


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

zarniwoop42 said:


> You can use a 3.7 volt battery with this driver.


That's what I thought. How do you calculate run time?
I'd like to figure out how much run time would be avail with:

-Single cell
-1S2P
-1S3P
-1S4P


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

roxtar said:


> That's what I thought. How do you calculate run time?
> I'd like to figure out how much run time would be avail with:
> 
> -Single cell
> ...


If you had one 3000mAH cell and ran the driver on 3000ma, it will run about 1 hour. Probably a touch less due to various losses.

Most cells are more like 2500 mAH, and connections, drivers etc draw something so you're looking at maybe 50 min per cell on max. For lower power settings, just divide the maH of the battery pack by the mA the driver is drawing.

A good 1S4P pack is 10500 maH or so, so you divide that by the ma you are running the light at.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

roxtar said:


> Found another, US based, option for drivers:
> 
> [URL]https://illuminationsupply.com/8xamc7135-304a-selectable-mode-driver-p-142.html?zenid=88c0d982331f9ea775a2624baa697c44
> 
> It does look like you have to change the battery setup as this driver seems to be limited to 6V input. Does anyone see anything else that might make this a less desirable option?


Need an on-off switch, and it goes low-off-med-off-high-off- (and strobes if configured)
Not sure if there is thermal protection.

I prefer the l-flex's multimode with a momentary switch, where you have 5 levels and can go up a level with one click, or down a level with a press. Considerably more $ and trickier to wire though.


----------



## random walk (Jan 12, 2010)

roxtar said:


> Found another, US based, option for drivers:
> 
> [URL]https://illuminationsupply.com/8xamc7135-304a-selectable-mode-driver-p-142.html?zenid=88c0d982331f9ea775a2624baa697c44
> 
> It does look like you have to change the battery setup as this driver seems to be limited to 6V input. Does anyone see anything else that might make this a less desirable option?


That's the one I ordered and the place I ordered it from. I also ordered my XML, plain tight lens and optic holder from there. Shipping was about $2 for the combo.

I like the fact I can run a 3.7V battery pack and get decent run time with that setup, since it'll weigh less on the helmet than a higher voltage pack. Currently I use a single-cell XML T6 torch on the helmet. It's not always on, depending on the terrain, and when it is on I don't run it on high very often. I get through a 2-hour ride on a single 2600 mAh cell with capacity to spare.

EDIT: What Ofroad'bent said about calculating capacity. If you run the light constant on medium, or about 1500 mAh, you would expect somewhere a little less than 2 hours if using a 3000 mAh cell or pack.


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

OK, my newest project based on this thread:

The final product with the donor Snap-On Mini-Mag clone. Flashlight was a POS but it had a nicely machined anodized head.
It just needed a new base, heatsink, and 26mm optics.


----------



## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Nicely done and worthy of it's own thread!


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Vancbiker said:


> Nicely done and worthy of it's own thread!


+1!

I would like to know how conx the them.

Great build!


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## beecrazy (Jun 20, 2011)

Roxtar- that is really awesome!

That turned out really good, is the driver in the first box off of the light head?

Where did you source the switch from?

This is a great thread:thumbsup:


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## beecrazy (Jun 20, 2011)

Roxtar- that is really awesome!

That turned out really good, is the driver in the first box off of the light head?

Where did you source the switch from?

This is a great thread:thumbsup:


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

Wow, thanks for all the kind comments.
I went ahead and started a thread about this build. If you have any questions you can ask them there to keep this thread on subject.

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/semi-first-attempt-xm-l-build-832337.html#post10046508

BTW, thanks again for all the help, Pucked.


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

BTW, found a driver that is even smaller, seems to be better quality, and is avail in the US, no 3-5 week wait.
https://illuminationsupply.com/8xamc7135-304a-selectable-mode-driver-p-142.html?zenid=88c0d982331f9ea775a2624baa697c44
It is a linear driver though so you need to keep the voltage under 6V. This is actually a good thing. I'm now using three 18650s in parallel, more than doubling my run time.


----------



## Gingerdawg (Nov 14, 2007)

*Wireless speedo interference?*

Anyone else have interference with their wireless speedo using the DX drivers?
I am using as a bars light, right next to my Cateye, and the on switch for the light might as well be an off switch for the cateye.
Solutions?


----------



## adrenalnjunky (Jul 28, 2007)

interesting. I just wired up a xml maglite using this same driver - I've got a wireless Polar HRM/comp - I'll test it tonight to see if I have similar results. 

Might have something to do with having that big toroidial inductor close to your speedo, although the aluminum housing should act as a magnetic shield just lie in hone theater speakers that are designed to be placed close to a tube-style TV.


----------



## Gingerdawg (Nov 14, 2007)

It doesn't affect my wireless HRM/GPS (Garmin), just the cateye. It is really close in proximity, but I have run a L&M Stella in exactly the same spot for years. Cateye is on the stem, light immeadiately to the left.
Would grounding the negative to the case help at all?


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## FInixNOver (Mar 11, 2013)

*Clicky Switch*

Since the switch from the OP is currently sold out, can you guys provide an alternative? (I'm making an order on DX, so if the alternative is available there, even better)

I've found 2, but I'm not sure whether they're suitable or not.

*http: //dx.com//p/5604* (cannot post links - remove the space between *http:* and *//*)
and
*http: //dx.com//p/122514* (cannot post links - remove the space between *http:* and *//*)


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

I'm real happy with this inline switch.

Component - Switch: on-off switch with LED Indicator (1' long) with Male & Female Trail-Tech coaxis connector

Just use the Trailtech cables also available through them.


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## Knight511 (Nov 26, 2010)

Judco switches and rubber boots work well for me.

Tube amp Switches

Hoffman amps is el34 here on the forum. I made a first order with him a couple of weeks ago and he is blazing fast with packing it up and shipping. The silicone wire he has for sale (by the foot) is QUEEN for working in small enclosures. I will definitely be going to el34 for switches, wire and mounts for any builds I do in the future. Top notch service!


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## roxtar (Sep 7, 2009)

Knight511 said:


> Judco switches and rubber boots work well for me.
> 
> Tube amp Switches
> 
> Hoffman amps is el34 here on the forum. I made a first order with him a couple of weeks ago and he is blazing fast with packing it up and shipping. The silicone wire he has for sale (by the foot) is QUEEN for working in small enclosures. I will definitely be going to el34 for switches, wire and mounts for any builds I do in the future. Top notch service!


2X. 
I also used the Judco/boot/silicone wire from them on a different project.


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## FInixNOver (Mar 11, 2013)

I've seen that switch before in one of the earlier posts  , but since I'm in Europe (Portugal), I'm searching for an alternative that allows me to save in shipping costs.
Also, the inline switch is not ideal, because I want to make the switch like a remote on the handlebar, or on the helmet.

But thank you so much for your reply though! :thumbsup:


----------



## borrower (Feb 26, 2011)

FInixNOver said:


> Since the switch from the OP is currently sold out, can you guys provide an alternative? (I'm making an order on DX, so if the alternative is available there, even better)
> 
> I've found 2, but I'm not sure whether they're suitable or not.
> 
> ...


Depending on the driver you choose, the switches above probably can't handle the current. Judcos are good. Alternately, you could search ebay for something waterproof and push on/push off (not momentary) rated to >3A. For example: 4pcs Waterproof Lock Push Switch 9V 12V 24V 36V 110V GA6L AY | eBay


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## FInixNOver (Mar 11, 2013)

Well, not you got me! I didn't even pay attention to the current... 

The driver in question is the alternative provided by *Pucked Up* (again, since the one in the OP is sold out).

About the switch itself... since the driver has 3 modes, shouldn't it be better to use a momentary switch, to cycle through the modes? (sorry about the noobness, but it's my first diy)

Actually i'm repairing an ebay MS copy, because the driver is not working.
I've already tested the XM-L and the batteries, and since the driver is not like the one that came in the light (with the tailcap switch included), I'm taking the chance to make a remote switch, but still be able to cycle through the driver modes.

In the future, I plan to make a similar light to the one on this thread, however, the aluminum parts are proving difficult to get (being in Portugal and all  ). Maybe I'll be able to get them machined in a lathe using aluminum rod, and in that case, dimensions for the parts would be highly appreciated.


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## Knight511 (Nov 26, 2010)

You need on-off with this driver. It goes [press]HIGH[press]OFF[press]LOW[press]OFF[press]STROBE[press]OFF.

A bit annoying, but at the low price, it'll do.


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## FInixNOver (Mar 11, 2013)

It can be a bit annoying, but like you said, low price... and since this is only a repair job, it most definitely will do 

All that being said, if someone is kind enough to provide a link to a switch (I know, I know, I should search myself, and a link has been provided above already)... but I'd like to use a low profile one, maybe something similar to the one presented in the OP, because I still haven't decided if I'm going to use this as an helmet light, and it would be easier to velcro a small flat switch to the helmet, instead of a tall round one.
An ebay link or similar should suffice, or some keywords so I can search.

Sorry about hijacking the thread with these questions.
Cheers!


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Added most likely the last update for this which is a video of how the lights work on the trail. The update is on the very 1st post.


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## Muscleflex (Nov 23, 2012)

I'm sure this thread will become active again come Fall! I have not even done anything to mine. All I have is the driver! ;o/


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Muscleflex said:


> All I have is the driver! ;o/


Hey that's a start!

For those that don't want to click back to the first post here's the video. Have fun night riding!


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

The 14.8V 4 x 18650 is really blocky. The pic you have of the bag holding the batteries off the front would make my OCD flair. Could you help me locate a 14.8 box that is either 2 and 2 stacked(double stack), or just a straight column of 4 x 18650. I want a box that will strap down to the frame, or be of the right dimensions to fit in the gap of my 40mm rise handlebar. If the battery column/double stack is the right size, I could make a small velcro bag to go between the gap and fit snug. Otherwise, I will make the battery wire harness a bit longer so I can lay down a rubber pad on the frame and secure the box to the frame using velcro straps; or elastic hook straps, if I can find a size that would give me a snug fit to the frame. If we could find a double stack, I'd just affix it to the front of the steered shell using velcro tape and a velcro retention strap to snug it.

Also, if anyone is wanting to mask the wire harnesses, look into PC mods for nylon wire sleeving. You would than have the ability to make the wire harnesses any color you wanted and hide the red and black. I'm going to try and make my harness assembly all red. Will update with pictures when build is close to finish(week or more).

Edit: Pulled the trigger on the listed parts form DX, but it seems the Clicky Switch is sold out. Is there one of 'roughly' the same price and function as the CS from DX?

Edit2: Bike trip to Platt Electrical Supply for diode and driver housing.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

pdxmark said:


> The 14.8V 4 x 18650 is really blocky. The pic you have of the bag holding the batteries off the front would make my OCD flair. Could you help me locate a 14.8 box that is either 2 and 2 stacked(double stack), or just a straight column of 4 x 18650. I want a box that will strap down to the frame, or be of the right dimensions to fit in the gap of my 40mm rise handlebar. If the battery column/double stack is the right size, I could make a small velcro bag to go between the gap and fit snug. Otherwise, I will make the battery wire harness a bit longer so I can lay down a rubber pad on the frame and secure the box to the frame using velcro straps; or elastic hook straps, if I can find a size that would give me a snug fit to the frame. If we could find a double stack, I'd just affix it to the front of the steered shell using velcro tape and a velcro retention strap to snug it.
> 
> Also, if anyone is wanting to mask the wire harnesses, look into PC mods for nylon wire sleeving. You would than have the ability to make the wire harnesses any color you wanted and hide the red and black. I'm going to try and make my harness assembly all red. Will update with pictures when build is close to finish(week or more).
> 
> ...


Hey pdx,

I have not come across any 18650 holders that were cube 2x2 or straight column. If this is something that is important to you, then have a look at this from another thread. Some people here are using this as holders replacing the crappy batteries that came with it with quality ones. If I remember you'll need to use unprotected flat top 18650s. The thread i found this in can be found here. I do not know if it comes with a charger.

Or you can always get a bag that is to your liking. I was just re-cycling an old Nintendo DS pouch that I had. Besides no ones notices at night while you're riding.

As for the switches, any on/off switch should work. So you'll have to see which one you like from DX or any other sites you buy from.

All the best on your build and have fun riding at night.

Don't forget to post pics of your build when it's done.:thumbsup:


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Is this the battery arrangement you are looking for?

All-Battery.com: AT: Tenergy Li-Ion 18650 7.4V 5200mAh Flat PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Pack w/ Bare Leads


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## find_bruce (May 8, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> Is this the battery arrangement you are looking for?
> 
> All-Battery.com: AT: Tenergy Li-Ion 18650 7.4V 5200mAh Flat PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Pack w/ Bare Leads


That pack is 7.4V - I think PDX was after 14.8, ie
All-Battery.com: AT: Tenergy Li-Ion 18650 14.8V 2600mAh Flat Rechargeable Battery Pack w/ 6.5A PCB Protection or
All-Battery.com: Tenergy Li-Ion 18650 14.8V 2200mAh Stick Rechargeable Battery Pack w/ PCB Protection


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

find_bruce said:


> That pack is 7.4V - I think PDX was after 14.8,


Yes, he did state a 14.8V battery. If pdx is building something like this thread covers he likely would be better off with a 7.4V pack as long as his driver choice supports that voltage. Most drivers gain efficiency if the difference between Vin and Vout is lower.


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

find_bruce said:


> That pack is 7.4V - I think PDX was after 14.8, ie
> All-Battery.com: AT: Tenergy Li-Ion 18650 14.8V 2600mAh Flat Rechargeable Battery Pack w/ 6.5A PCB Protection or
> All-Battery.com: Tenergy Li-Ion 18650 14.8V 2200mAh Stick Rechargeable Battery Pack w/ PCB Protection


Thanks for the link to those batteries. Today I'm going to wander to a couple of hardware stores looking for the diode and driver housing. And, maybe, today I wont hit the concrete and skin myself up like yesterday after going to the tool store. My family gave me a gift card to Home Depot :thumbsup:, I ended up only paying $10 out of my pocket for this torque wrench... So happy, needed an Inch-pounds wrench for ever!

Anyways, back on topic, my plan with this guide is to make this project as compact as possible, with any attached harnesses being as short as possible without creating steering issues, also making it so less wire can be caught up on whatever. I like the mag head idea and I have a lathe I can use to create a nice looking sink like roxtar made. Though, If my ADD makes me want it now, I may just do both; grab a maglite with a diode, mod that. Also get the electrical conduit and make that. I was thinking that a skinnier maglite head would make for a great low-profile helmet lite.

Obviously I'm in the gather parts and pre-production phase. When I start working on it, I may either do this as a video(probably not), but I will get photos of production time and end work.

You guys are great, I'm so glad I found this thread. Tinkering warms my heart; and on a nice winter day, this lite should warm my hands!

Edit: Still waiting on my order from DX. Finally figured out how their tracking system works, showed me my package has been opened twice by Chinese customs and has yet made it into the States. DX says it shipped on 8/21. Last opened by customs on 20130825 0007(lol, that's a date). Waiting patiently!


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

Just received my Nitecore Intellicharger-i4(output 4.2v, 0.375A*4 / 1.48v, 0.75A*2) from Amazon. Now to keep waiting for my package from DX, last tracked; 8/26 at Shanghai Pudong International Airport; "action: NULL". So I'm going to assume it's on a plane head toward my house, or customs is still sitting on it!

Edit-9/5: My driver, batteries, wire harnesses and battery box showed up today around 2pm PST. Soldered a female connecter onto the battery box, made a male to female extension cable, now I just need to pick up the intermittent button, conduit pieces and red shrink, believe I have silicone. 

-->Should I fully drain the 18650's before fully charging them?

Updates to follow, waiting to get camera back from brother.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Hi pdx, there is no need to drain the 18650s, just charge them up and you're good to go.


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

Thanks...

... All I need to get now is the housing. Not sure if I want to get the $26 dollar housing from LEDSupply, or just go with the homedepot electrical conduit and protect it from rain with red shrink. Don't know what I'll do, got to get paycheck.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

*Update Smaller XM-L2 Build!!*

I know I said my last update would be the last, but, there is no point starting a new thread with this new info.

Do you guys wish this build could be a little lighter and smaller? I would also say easier, but this is about as easiest as it gets.

Well you're in luck! Cause meet XM-L's little cozin..."XM-L2"



They are about the same in length but the new body has a smaller diameter.




It weights less too!! I assuming it'll weight in at around 81g with driver, optics, emitter and wires in place.

I'm going to be using XM-L2 emitters on a 16mm board as the new heat sink will only be 17mm wide with AMC7135 3.0A driver on this new build.

Will I really see a difference in light output between a 2.8A and a 3.0A driver?

Anyways here is the info you'll need if you want the smaller body.
Mainbody is 1/2 ALUMINUM CONDUIT COUPLING $5.00
Optic holder is R-21 $1.83
Heat sink is CUP-1 KILLARK 1/2" CLOSE-UP PLUG $1.60

To close up the back end, I'll use one of the sliding door thingy with a cable gland through it.

I'll add this new info to the first post also.


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## Knight511 (Nov 26, 2010)

nevermind. the answer was, yes... crazy.


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

pucked up said:


>


I was planning on taking the conduit to my friends lathe and machining the exterior to be a finned heatsink. 48g though, not bad.

Going to Home Depot now, right now, for the housing pieces.


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## Knight511 (Nov 26, 2010)

The Home Depots around here (North Texas) don't stock the aluminum conduit. You would have to go to Grainger in my area to get these parts.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

You don't really need to have it finned, I've used these lights on the hottest of nights on high and have had no issues. If you do don't go too deep.


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## zarniwoop42 (Sep 13, 2009)

Hey Pucked, 
How do you cram the driver in there? What optics are you using?


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

zarniwoop42 said:


> Hey Pucked,
> How do you cram the driver in there? What optics are you using?


I'm using a new driver now, it's the AMC7135 and there are two version that I've used. One has an output of 2.8a the other 3.04a. These are small enough to fit inside the smaller bodies. I'm not sure if the original driver from DX will fit. I'll try it when I get home.

As for optics, I'm waiting for some new optics to arrive from DNA-LED which has a 10 degree angle. The original optics from the build should fit. You may need to file the numb of the lens for it to fit the smaller R-21. You may also have to loose the optic holder.

I haven't started the build with the smaller body as I'm still waiting for parts to arrive.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

pucked up said:


> As for optics, I'm waiting for some new optics to arrive from DNA-LED which has a 10 degree angle. The original optics from the build should fit. You may need to file the numb of the lens for it to fit the smaller R-21. You may also have to loose the optic holder.


The LED-DNA optics have a holder that should probably be used. It spaces the optic off the star by .75mm or .03". With out that space the beam get some darkish artifacts that one might find objectionable. I played with that in the shop so no outdoor experience. Sometimes things seen in a wall shot are not a problem in real use.


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## zarniwoop42 (Sep 13, 2009)

No need to check the DX driver. I have the AMC7135 as well. After building lights with 
the 3/4 inch fittings I didn't think the 7135 would fit the smaller fittings. 

I'm anxious to see how this comes together!


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

zarniwoop42 said:


> After building lights with
> the 3/4 inch fittings I didn't think the 7135 would fit the smaller fittings.
> 
> I'm anxious to see how this comes together!


No worries, the smaller Cup 1 has an opening of about 24mm. The AMC7135 is only about 17mm and fits inside with room to spare.

Edit:
I mean 1/2 ALUMINUM CONDUIT COUPLING, not Cup 1.


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## JakeS (Jan 20, 2008)

pucked up said:


> No worries, the smaller Cup 1 has an opening of about 24mm. The AMC7135 is only about 17mm and fits inside with room to spare.


Hi Pucked Up
Got links for those drivers?


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

JakeS said:


> Hi Pucked Up
> Got links for those drivers?


Here you go:
2.8a version

3.04a version


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## random walk (Jan 12, 2010)

Dusted off my parts for this project (the bigger version), and in screwing the alu conduit parts together I notice the threaded interfaces are slightly loose. When the ends of the condulet and coupler meet, they can be snugged together pretty tight, but I'm not convinced they wouldn't loosen due to vibration (on the handlebars). Also, I would assume the thermal path from the close-up plug to the outer parts is pretty poor.

So I'm wondering if there's some kind of compound I can put on the threads to tighten them up a little -- preferably something that also helps with thermal exchange between the CUP and the outer bits?


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

random walk said:


> Dusted off my parts for this project (the bigger version), and in screwing the alu conduit parts together I notice the threaded interfaces are slightly loose. When the ends of the condulet and coupler meet, they can be snugged together pretty tight, but I'm not convinced they wouldn't loosen due to vibration (on the handlebars). Also, I would assume the thermal path from the close-up plug to the outer parts is pretty poor.
> 
> So I'm wondering if there's some kind of compound I can put on the threads to tighten them up a little -- preferably something that also helps with thermal exchange between the CUP and the outer bits?


Did you have the optics on? The R32 will clamp down on to the optics by screwing on to the cup 2 plug. Once the R32 and cup 2 is screwed doen in to the coupler everything should be nice and tight.

I have not had one light come apart while riding. Also heat transfer is very good when assembled. No heating issues while riding and I've I have ridden for as long as 2.5hrs on high.

You can always use silver artic to give you piece of mind. All the best with your build.


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

Update:

I've been using the DNA LED optics for the last two wks and find that they do have somewhat a tighter and futher throw. But not by much. Comparing them with the original spot optics on the first page, I noticed that there is less spill in front of the bike. It's safe to say that this can be used for both a bar and helmet light. Less expensive option as well.

Sorry but the DNA LED optics will not fit the smaller build.


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## pdxmark (Aug 7, 2013)

This switch is rated to handle 3Ampers.

This switch is rated to handle 10Ampers.

Will any one of the two work? If so, which would be the better?


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

I was told that the rating isn't that important. So either one will do.


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## brackenb5 (Nov 4, 2013)

*3.04a driver*

Hi Pucked Up. Great write up and thanks for the information. I just ordered the majority of these parts and am awaiting their arrival. I have a question in regards to the 3.04a driver you listed above. What modes did you configure this to use and are you happy with it?


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

brackenb5 said:


> Hi Pucked Up. Great write up and thanks for the information. I just ordered the majority of these parts and am awaiting their arrival. I have a question in regards to the 3.04a driver you listed above. What modes did you configure this to use and are you happy with it?


I have one light with 2 modes (high/low) and another with 3 modes (low/mid/high) with memory. I like this driver a lot due to the memory that it has. No need to cycle through the different modes every time you turn your lights on.

With the DX driver, it was pushing out about 2.65 - 2.70A. The 2.8A driver from Fasttech was pushing about 2.75A. I haven't been able to measure what the 3.04 driver is pumping out yet. I don't really see a big difference in light out put between the three drivers.

Hopefully when my new LEDs XM-L2's arrives, I'll see a jump in light out put using the 3.04A drivers.


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## plugp7 (Oct 8, 2011)

Bump.
Any of you guys know a UK supplier of these alu parts.
Can only find stainless steel on Ebay.


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