# Specialized Fuse 6Fattie



## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

On Friday afternoon I took delivery of this beast, a 2016 Specialised Fuse Expert 6Fattie. I'm a tall guy so I went with the XXL and it's plenty enormous.

The XXL runs a 75mm stem as standard but I put a 70mm aftermarket stem on it. I'm actually wishing I'd gone even shorter to something like 60mm or 65mm. The stock bars were far too narrow for me so I've got some 800mm bars on there now. That's definitely too wide but I didn't have time yet to do a decent job of cutting the them down to 780mm, which is my favoured width for trail riding.

With some good pedals, bottle cage/multi-tool, bar and stem upgrade (still running tubes for now) it weighs right on 30 pounds which seems OK to me for such a huuuuge frame and tyres. The Specialised Stout crankset and TranzX dropper are probably really heavy and I'm not at all keen on the dropper. It's definitely a budget piece.

The first ride was interesting. I haven't ridden a hardtail for a very long time so that was initially more noticeable to me than the tyre width. I somehow managed to crash in the first corner. Not really sure what happened. I'm running around 16psi in the tyres. I weigh 260 pounds without riding gear/pack so i guess that is pretty low? I crashed several more times in big rockgardens which I put down to the low tyre pressure and lack of fitness for clearing boulders. I bent the front brake lever right around on itself. I was able to bend it back and finished the ride, but the lever is shot. I have some Shimano Saints on order, luckily. It doesn't need such hardcore brakes but there was a deal where I got them cheaper than XTs. I'm not at all keen on the stock brakes which are Avid DB3. Reviews I've read mention different brakes than came on mine. I'm Australian and even an Australia review unit had SRAM Guide R, so maybe they changed the spec shortly before release? The Manitou Magnum Comp I will need some more time with. It really ramps up for the second half of the stroke. I've read that it can be tricky to get setup perfectly. It didn't stand out as good or bad; but it did the job.

In general I found the bike had tonnes of grip but took a bit to get leaned over. It seemed to want to stand up and power ahead. I'm sure I'll adjust to giving it some more body language. I found it hugely enjoyable to ride and it certainly smoothed out the chatter of the trail.

I'm loving the bike and would definitely recommend it. Especially for anyone my height (even taller) after a big bike.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

surprised the fuse hasn't got more mentions round here thus far.

looks like a great line of bikes!


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## Rock Surf (Aug 28, 2010)

Looks Good! I ordered the Expert as well, in yellow. Ill post pics and info on mine later this week.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

I forgot to mention the geometry. The slack head angle is great! And with the top tube being so long and the rear as short as they could go, I think they could have specced them with really short stems rather than just short.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

AptosRider said:


> Looks Good! I ordered the Expert as well, in yellow. Ill post pics and info on mine later this week.


Congrats! The yellow is great. I didn't have any colour choice. The colour of mine is kind of old school. Wouldn't normally be my choice.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

I'm having issues with the TranzX dropper post. While fully extended and without touching the lever I'm finding it bounces down/up about 10mm as I hit bumps while seated. Feels awful and I imagine isn't good for it. I think perhaps it can't take my weight. I can't find any documentation online. It never ceases to amaze me how expensive bicycles can be sold with such limited manuals/documentation. I've emailed Specialised.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

thomson elite posts don't do that and are way lighter. hope this helps


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## NH Mtbiker (Nov 6, 2004)

Looks great and BIG! All ya need to get you going with a plus bike on a budget! Looks like plenty of clearance out back between the stays and nice slack head angle...all a Plus for this kind of bike!  ...Enjoy!


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

I use Thomson fixed posts and absolutely love them. I'd love a Thomson Covert dropper but can't afford it. Close to $600 here. Ouch.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Paranoid_Android said:


> I use Thomson fixed posts and absolutely love them. I'd love a Thomson Covert dropper but can't afford it. Close to $600 here. Ouch.


If i pick up a pro, the dropper will hafta go. Seriously considering a red pro


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

The red Pro was what I wanted, too. The latest version of the Specialized dropper is meant to be much better than previous models. You might find its OK.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Paranoid_Android said:


> The red Pro was what I wanted, too. The latest version of the Specialized dropper is meant to be much better than previous models. You might find its OK.


Pro wasn't available?

I'm a rigid post guy, you can have my dropper!


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

newmarketrog said:


> Pro wasn't available?
> 
> I'm a rigid post guy, you can have my dropper!


The Pro was available with a 3-4 month wait on the Red colour. I have trouble living with delayed gratification. I'm weak 

Thanks mate! I'd love to chuck you some $ for the dropper but I'm in Australia and I assume you aren't. Thanks, though!


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## Tyrich88 (Nov 13, 2012)

I'm really hoping to be able to snag one of these soon. My wife wants the women's RUZE and i think they look like an absolute BLAST to ride.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I plan on getting my wife the Ruze, which will be her first offroad bicycle. My shop won't order me one just yet however.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

Tyrich88 said:


> I'm really hoping to be able to snag one of these soon. My wife wants the women's RUZE and i think they look like an absolute BLAST to ride.





Suns_PSD said:


> I plan on getting my wife the Ruze, which will be her first offroad bicycle. My shop won't order me one just yet however.


Lucky girls!The Ruze looks awesome!


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

So, the brakes I'll have replaced with Shimano Saints shortly but now I'm thinking about a new Shimano groupset.

When it comes to chainline and how that relates to the boost spacing etc I don't really know much. I'd like to buy this XT groupset but don't really know if it's suitable. I guess the bottom bracket would have to suit as well.

Any advice?
Shimano XT 1x11 Speed Groupset Builder | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## Tyrich88 (Nov 13, 2012)

If you're buying the groupset with cranks, i'm not sure about the cranks. But in the Shimano forum I posted my first ride impressions on the new XT m8000 1x11.

It's pretty awesome, I would HIGHLY recommend it!

Here is the link:
http://forums.mtbr.com/shimano/shimano-deore-xt-m8000-11-speed-groupset-963919.html


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

Tyrich88 said:


> If you're buying the groupset with cranks, i'm not sure about the cranks. But in the Shimano forum I posted my first ride impressions on the new XT m8000 1x11.
> 
> It's pretty awesome, I would HIGHLY recommend it!
> 
> ...


Thanks tor the feedback on the group-set. It certainly seems like some quality gear. I just need to make sure it fits this funky bicycle.


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## hamilton (Nov 22, 2005)

Paranoid_Android said:


> So, the brakes I'll have replaced with Shimano Saints shortly but now I'm thinking about a new Shimano groupset.
> 
> When it comes to chainline and how that relates to the boost spacing etc I don't really know much. I'd like to buy this XT groupset but don't really know if it's suitable. I guess the bottom bracket would have to suit as well.
> 
> ...


You'll want the crank with the 53mm chain line. Bottom bracket is standard width.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

Thanks!


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

Paranoid_Android said:


> So, the brakes I'll have replaced with Shimano Saints shortly but now I'm thinking about a new Shimano groupset.
> 
> When it comes to chainline and how that relates to the boost spacing etc I don't really know much. I'd like to buy this XT groupset but don't really know if it's suitable. I guess the bottom bracket would have to suit as well.
> 
> ...


That new XT crank does look pretty nice, and it has 2 chainline options. Theoretically, to 50mm chainline version is for normal 35/142 hubs and the 53mm chainline version is for Boost 148 hubs. In reality you can use either one with a Boost setup. The 50mm chainline version will offset the chainring toward the bigger cogs a bit. If you spend most of your time in the bigger cogs, that might actually be good as the chainline would be straighter and it should result in slightly less wear.

All minor differences and either will work fine.


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

bikeny said:


> That new XT crank does look pretty nice, and it has 2 chainline options. Theoretically, to 50mm chainline version is for normal 35/142 hubs and the 53mm chainline version is for Boost 148 hubs. In reality you can use either one with a Boost setup. The 50mm chainline version will offset the chainring toward the bigger cogs a bit. If you spend most of your time in the bigger cogs, that might actually be good as the chainline would be straighter and it should result in slightly less wear.
> 
> All minor differences and either will work fine.


Doesn't the Fuse have a PF30 bottom bracket that is incompatible with a 24mm Shimano spindle/bb? Or would you have to use some type of adapter?


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## Tyrich88 (Nov 13, 2012)

davemk said:


> Doesn't the Fuse have a PF30 bottom bracket that is incompatible with a 24mm Shimano spindle/bb? Or would you have to use some type of adapter?


Praxis BB is the best way to go from what i've heard.


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

davemk said:


> Doesn't the Fuse have a PF30 bottom bracket that is incompatible with a 24mm Shimano spindle/bb? Or would you have to use some type of adapter?


I didn't think about that, but yes, the Fuse has a PF30 BB. There are 3 ways to use a 24mm spindle Shimano crank on a PF30 frame:

1: You can use the standard PF30 BB already in the frame and buy adapters to fit the 24mm spindle.

2: Install an adapter into the frame that will accept a standard threaded Shimano BB.

3: Install a PF30 24mm complete BB. There are made by a few companies including Praxis and Wheels Manufacturing.

If the bearings in the frame are still good, #1 would be the easiest/cheapest option.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

Thanks for the detailed info, guys. This is exactly what I was after.


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## Rock Surf (Aug 28, 2010)

Got all my Deity parts in today. 35mm Cavity stem, Bladerunner pedals, and a blue ano seat clamp. Now all I need is the bike to arrive. Grrrrr................waiting sux.


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## Stopbreakindown (Jun 27, 2011)

+1 on the Ruze being kick ass, if I were buying today I would pick it over the Fuse in a heartbeat.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

Is the decision just based on what sex you are? Fuse for a guy, Ruze for a girl?

I just bought a women's specific bike for my girlfriend. We got a great deal so went with that bike otherwise I was recommending she stick with the men's bike for easier resale. I wasn't totally convinced on the differences between the male and female models.


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## Tyrich88 (Nov 13, 2012)

Paranoid_Android said:


> Is the decision just based on what sex you are? Fuse for a guy, Ruze for a girl?
> 
> I just bought a women's specific bike for my girlfriend. We got a great deal so went with that bike otherwise I was recommending she stick with the men's bike for easier resale. I wasn't totally convinced on the differences between the male and female models.


The differences between male and female bikes are in the geometry of the bike. Lower standover and other features for the girls that are more suited to an average female build. It will fit very different from a men's bike. My wife has ridden both and prefers the womens specific build more. Some don't though.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I have decided on the Ruze Pro for my wife in a small. I spoke to Specialized and it's 3# lighter than the expert which I consider a fair deal. And I want the bike to be a real joy to ride for my wife, even if she doesn't understand the differences.

I hope to get an order in this week although I'm tempted to wait until the Fall 10% sale my local dealer always has.


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## Tyrich88 (Nov 13, 2012)

The frames are the same between the two... Almost every other part on the bike is different. Drivetrain, brakes, wheels... it's literally almost everything... the saddle is the same, tires, stem and grips haha THATS IT. My wife likes the Turquoise comp, not the nicest, but i'm not complaining. It's more affordable and if she has fun that's all that matters.


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## Rock Surf (Aug 28, 2010)

Suns_PSD said:


> I have decided on the Ruze Pro for my wife in a small. I spoke to Specialized and it's 3# lighter than the expert which I consider a fair deal. And I want the bike to be a real joy to ride for my wife, even if she doesn't understand the differences.
> 
> I hope to get an order in this week although I'm tempted to wait until the Fall 10% sale my local dealer always has.


Wow, 3lbs is a lot. Plus the Pro runs 1x11, just like the Fuse Pro. The rest run 1x10.


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## Imre (Dec 10, 2005)

Back from my first trip to the alps.
Day one was lift supported bikepark like shredding. I love this bikes but the brakes didn't have enough bite for me. Just ordered SLX brakes. On the second day we made a "real" tour. Due to my poor fitness I would have liked a tad smaller chainring but the bikes handles well on long climbs. 
And I stumbeled over a Manitou Magnum Pro for a reasonable price, really lookin forward to this upgrade


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## Imre (Dec 10, 2005)

Just upgraded my Fuse. Now with Magnum Pro & SLX brakes 
Can't wait to throw it on the trail tomorrow!


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## FatSpooky (Dec 2, 2014)

Imre...I'm interested to see how you feel the 2 forks compare. I would think the Manitou would be a noticeable improvement, but I've never ridden either. Thanks in advance.


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## Imre (Dec 10, 2005)

I've took'em on test ride today. It's really a huge difference.The precision & traction of the front wheel was great. And even though it was raining the whole day and it was really wet, I could handle more aggressive lines than before. All in all I'm very impressed of the performance an I'll play around with the different settings over the next few rides.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

sick bike brother !


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## tooberand (Sep 28, 2011)

LBS notified me yesterday that my Fuse Pro is in and being built. Will try and post pics and impressions once I'm on it. I do love the red on Imre's and wish that had been a color option for the pro.


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

Picked up my XL Fuse Expert today. I quickly swapped out the pedals, adjusted the fork pressure, and threw on a water bottle cage before getting a quick ride on my local trails with my boys. I like it so far, it is my backup/snow/mud/screw around with the kids bike. I was surprised that the wheels didn't feel too heavy even with the tubes still in the tires (I'll set it up tubeless tomorrow). And the bike is really playful. I think it will be a great second bike. I'll post more thoughts as I get more time on the bike.


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## chocolatemoeze (Jun 22, 2005)

davemk said:


> I think it will be a great second bike.
> 
> View attachment 1010298


Why specific as a 2nd bike?

Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met behulp van Tapatalk


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

chocolatemoeze said:


> Why specific as a 2nd bike?
> 
> Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met behulp van Tapatalk


I think it's a bit like Flow Magazine said in their review of the Fuse:
Who then is the bike designed for? Someone who isn't interested in racing (except maybe in the desert), someone who doesn't want the complications of a dual suspension bike, and someone who is looking for something a little bit different. It would make the perfect second bike to accompany either an XC race machine or long-travel all-mountain bike, as it's a far cry from either of these categories.
Tested: Specialized Fuse Expert 6Fattie ? Flow Mountain Bike

My main bike is a 2015 Santa Cruz Nomad, with a Push ElevenSix shock. I ride it everywhere and love it. I couldn't personally imagine having my Fuse as my only bike, I would feel limited. But I've been riding mountain bikes for 23 years, I also focus most of my rides on big alpine epics, or bike parks here in CO. The Fuse might make a great one quiver bike for someone new to the sport. I also only have one ride on the bike so far, so I reserve the right to change my opinion.


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## tooberand (Sep 28, 2011)

My Fuse is my second bike as well for exactly the same reasoning as davemk. I've got a StumpJumper 29er FSR as well. I just got my second ride in on the Fuse this morning and am quickly getting used to it and smiling like crazy on the downhill corners. I was also surprised that the Fuse Pro actually comes standard with the first bottle cage/EMT combo and the chain tool/chain link top cap in the headset.

I'm still making small adjustments and figuring out shock/tire pressures but on the mostly rolling singletrack behind my house, this bike is a ton of fun. And from the look of davemk's pic, we're riding the same trails.


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

tooberand said:


> And from the look of davemk's pic, we're riding the same trails.


Are you in Highlands Ranch too?


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## tooberand (Sep 28, 2011)

Yessir. Those Wildcat Mountain trails make for a good, quick ride.

So far I've been riding tubeless at 20psi. I'm no expert at giving good feedback on the feel of a bike, but it feels like a good balance between traction and speed.

I'm also not sure I'm sold on the 750mm wide handlebars. My full suspension is only 720mm wide and those feel like too much sometimes. I'll give it a little more, but may eventually switch to narrower bars, or take the hacksaw too them if my LBS says that's okay.


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

tooberand said:


> Yessir. Those Wildcat Mountain trails make for a good, quick ride.
> 
> So far I've been riding tubeless at 20psi. I'm no expert at giving good feedback on the feel of a bike, but it feels like a good balance between traction and speed.
> 
> I'm also not sure I'm sold on the 750mm wide handlebars. My full suspension is only 720mm wide and those feel like too much sometimes. I'll give it a little more, but may eventually switch to narrower bars, or take the hacksaw too them if my LBS says that's okay.


Interesting, I'm running the 15 psi pressure that my shop & the Flow Mag article recommended, I'm thinking about going lower down to 13 psi. I'm used to ultra wide bars (I've got 800mm bars on my Nomad) so the 750s feel fine. In my opinion you should try the bars for a while with the stock width. I bet you will like them once you get used to them, but it is all personal preference/fit.


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## tgarson (Jul 28, 2015)

davemk said:


> Are you in Highlands Ranch too?


Ha, not only is the trail distinguishable... you can date it to the past week thanks to haze. Thanks California!

Where did you get your Fuze, Bikesource? I'm trying to find a Ruze for my girlfriend but don't see any listed in inventory online, will have to make some phone calls.


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

tgarson said:


> Where did you get your Fuze, Bikesource? I'm trying to find a Ruze for my girlfriend but don't see any listed in inventory online, will have to make some phone calls.


Mojo Wheels. IMO they are the best shop in Denver.


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## tooberand (Sep 28, 2011)

I got mine at Bike Source. They're better than they were five years back and ultra convenient for me. Calling is always better than they're online inventory.

I finally managed to snap a pic of mine:


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

tooberand said:


> I finally managed to snap a pic of mine:


Nice, the red looks good. How wide are the Roval rims on the Pro?


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## tooberand (Sep 28, 2011)

"Roval 650b, alloy, 38mm wide, 2Bliss Ready, 24/28h".

Although I'm not impressed by the hubs. Do you also have the Specialized Hi Lo Disc? I spin my front wheel and it stops after 10 seconds.


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

The expert comes with the Stout hubs, which aren't very impressive either. They have very slow engagement, but spin okay. I went with the Expert since I knew I was going to be riding it in the snow, and wanted the wider rims. But, everything else on your Pro looks so much nicer.


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## tooberand (Sep 28, 2011)

I originally had an older Niner Air 9 (Scandium) for riding the HR trails. It was a lot of fun and the bike could fly. However, the frame cracked back in May and that's when I put in the order for the Fuse to take its place. I typically get Comp or Expert level, however, the amount of upgrades in the Pro seemed atypically generous for what Specialized normally does: Fork, wheels, brakes, drivetrain, SWAT accessories, seat post. Plus it had a nicer gearing selection for those days where my legs just don't have it. I'm not sure why they went with narrower rims on the Pro, but with my lack of technical skills, I'm pretty sure I won't notice the difference.

I do like your "Hyper" color on your expert. The more bold the better in my opinion.


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

So I took the Fuse out for a "real" ride yesterday, and I have to say the traction is unbelievable. My ride was 12 miles on blown out sandy trail with 1900 ft of climbing and descending. The bike was really fun. I converted the wheels to a tubeless setup, which is a must on this bike. Those fat tubes are really heavy, I immediately felt a difference in performance with the lower rolling weight. I was running about 15 psi up front, and 18 in the back. The traction was incredible, I was climbing steep loose sections out of the saddle and the tire never slipped. It almost felt like riding slickrock in Moab, where you are only limited by your legs, not traction.


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## tooberand (Sep 28, 2011)

Sounds great! Which trail?

I picked up a gauge yesterday which will allow me to accurately set the lower pressure in my tires since the floor pump gauge wasn't very accommodating for that.


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

tooberand said:


> Sounds great! Which trail?
> 
> I picked up a gauge yesterday which will allow me to accurately set the lower pressure in my tires since the floor pump gauge wasn't very accommodating for that.


Out and back at Indian Creek from the Sedalia side up the singletrack to ringtail down ringtail to swallow tail and back. That trail is really overgrown and sandy from all the heat, but it was a great test for the Fuse.


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## carthief (Aug 11, 2014)

Bike shop called yesterday, my Pro will be delivered tomorrow!!!


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## nemesis256 (Aug 16, 2014)

davemk said:


> Those fat tubes are really heavy, I immediately felt a difference in performance with the lower rolling weight.


Is it not using a regular 27.5" tube? I thought that was the only option.


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

nemesis256 said:


> Is it not using a regular 27.5" tube? I thought that was the only option.


It's stamped 650Bx2.3-3.0 so it could be considered "regular" but it is the heaviest non-fatbike tube I've every picked up.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

Converting mine to tubeless this weekend (have been putting it off for a while). Good to know there's some real weight to be saved.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Took one of these out for a demo yesterday. It was hard to evaluate the traction, as it was a wet leaf riding surface, but there were a couple occasions where I could tell that I was saved by the fattish tires. I'm sold on the plus tire. What was a deal-breaker for me was the low bottom bracket. It wasn't just rock gardens where I was pedal striking, it was any sharp-change to a steep ramp. It was worse than my 1996 Stumpjumper - on account of the longer cranks and the squishy tires. I would expect this issue out of companies rushing to convert a FS 29er frame to 27.5+, as the BB drop on the existing front triangle, but to design a wholly new frame like this is mystifying to me. 

It was definitely a fun bike overall, but there are large sections of my favorite trails that became unridable for this strangely designed spec. I'm going to have to wait on the next batch of +bikes to come along (and maybe check-out the Stache in the meantime).


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Paranoid_Android said:


> Converting mine to tubeless this weekend (have been putting it off for a while). Good to know there's some real weight to be saved.


How did you like the change? Running a taller gear now? Any improvement to traction/tracking, as you gain flexibility to tweak the tire pressures?


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

phride said:


> How did you like the change? Running a taller gear now? Any improvement to traction/tracking, as you gain flexibility to tweak the tire pressures?


I've been too sick to ride The conversion was a breeze though! The rims came pre-taped and ready to go.


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## Rob T (Jan 10, 2007)

phride said:


> Took one of these out for a demo yesterday. It was hard to evaluate the traction, as it was a wet leaf riding surface, but there were a couple occasions where I could tell that I was saved by the fattish tires. I'm sold on the plus tire. What was a deal-breaker for me was the low bottom bracket. It wasn't just rock gardens where I was pedal striking, it was any sharp-change to a steep ramp. It was worse than my 1996 Stumpjumper - on account of the longer cranks and the squishy tires. I would expect this issue out of companies rushing to convert a FS 29er frame to 27.5+, as the BB drop on the existing front triangle, but to design a wholly new frame like this is mystifying to me.
> 
> It was definitely a fun bike overall, but there are large sections of my favorite trails that became unridable for this strangely designed spec. I'm going to have to wait on the next batch of +bikes to come along (and maybe check-out the Stache in the meantime).


Hello. I am interested in purchasing the Fuse Comp. I was able to demo it for a good three hours and pretty technical terrain and had a blast. I am curious about Bottom Bracket height and how much higher it should be and how much better it could be if it was higher. I did have some trouble going over some logs but that I would say was my riding ability. I had no trouble over rock gardens. Would the Stache be much different? I would like to see one in person and demo if possible but right now no local bike shops have them in stock and may just bring them in if customers orders one only. Any insight would be appreciated as I have been riding road the last few years with exception of borrowing a mountain bike once or twice in the fall/winter. I would like to supplement my road riding this winter with a hardtail plus size mountain bike and the Fuse Comp seems like a decent value/ price at $1,600.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

BB Height 

Trek 29+ 313 mm

Cannondale Beast Of The East 27.5+ 309 mm

Specialized 27.5+ 305.5 mm


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I rented the Trek Stache 7 29+ three times (2+ hour rides) before I bought the Fuse Comp. Why? I'm a big 29er fan and thought I would prefer the 29er +. Nope, it was super fast on the downhill, but slow up hill and slow around tight corners (think Monster truck with 30.6" real tire size).

I rode the Fuse on the street in front of the Bike shop and knew within the first 100' feet this was the bike for me.

Fast and nimble in the flats and downhill and a very good climber. It will go through chunky rocky areas like no other bike I've had. (15 rides so far)

I can't say enough positive about this bike. Yes, at $1,600 its a very good value.

UPGRADES:

Tubeless (super easy to set up with stans juice/valves/and a compressor)
Eggbeater pedals $90 (Sale $54)
Race Face Crank caps $10
Niner RDO carbon bar 760 (had off another bike)
Sella Italia seat (had ")
Low pressure gauge $9 (1-15#) I run 14 front & 15 rear for now

Over time I will upgrade more as more plus size parts hit the market

Great bike


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

phride said:


> What was a deal-breaker for me was the low bottom bracket. It wasn't just rock gardens where I was pedal striking, it was any sharp-change to a steep ramp.


I don't know how much experience you have with current bikes with "modern" geometry, but the long, low, & slack geometry is here to stay and low bottom brackets are a key part of the geo. For example, my Santa Cruz Nomad has a 340mm bb height on a 165 mm travel bike. I'm less than 300mm when sagged. This is essentially the same as the Fuse. I highly doubt that you will find a new bike with a much higher bb, but I could be wrong. The good thing is you can adjust to riding with the lower bb height pretty quickly.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Funny, it's all a matter of perspective. I'm coming from a XC bike, so what we view as sluggish/nimble differs. I found the Fuse a little sluggish around tight corners, but not so much that a change in riding style (i.e., setting-up my turns better/different) wouldn't fix that in 9 out of 10 spots. It definitely seems a better value than the Stache, but that is an altogether different animal. The Fuse did incredibly well in the rock gardens through which I could carry speed without having to pedal constantly, so much so that jumbled, rocky descents that would make a mess of me on a FS 29er, I glided through without even thinking about the dropper post on the Fuse. Unfortunately, the low BB made it a step backwards on my favorite climbs, so I'm going to wait to see if some of the newer 27.5+ bikes hit the mark for me. The 6Fattie FSR is next in line. Unspung, it's nominally 1-inch taller at the BB, but a chunk of that will get eaten up under weight.


----------



## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

phride said:


> The 6Fattie FSR is next in line. Unspung, it's nominally 1-inch taller at the BB, but a chunk of that will get eaten up under weight.


I would expect the additional bb drop on 135mm FS bike to be somewhere around 30-40mm depending on the bike and how much sag you like. So the 6Fattie FSR might have a lower effective bb height.


----------



## Rob T (Jan 10, 2007)

johnD said:


> BB Height
> 
> Trek 29+ 313 mm
> 
> ...


Is it me or are the BB heights between the Fuse (305.5mm) and Stache (313mm) miniminal?


----------



## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Rob T said:


> Is it me or are the BB heights between the Fuse (305.5mm) and Stache (313mm) miniminal?


Sounds (in agreement with davemk's post) from the reviews like the SJ FSR 6Fattie is in the same boat. That said, folks have been converting their 29ers to 27.5+ for the better part of a year now, and they are probably not that much higher once the smaller diameter, squishier tire is factored-in. The Stache & Fuse just look worse because they don't need to account for as much sag as the FS bikes.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

The fuse bb is only 4.5 mm lower than my rockhopper 29. I have virtually zero pedals strikes on that rockhopper with 175mm cranks.
I may be wrong but I think the lower bb comes from the slacker head tube angle , not sure.


It won't be long before somebody will come along on mtbr with a 140mm on their Fuse. looking forward to that report...


----------



## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

johnD said:


> The fuse bb is only 4.5 mm lower than my rockhopper 29. I have virtually zero pedals strikes on that rockhopper with 175mm cranks.
> I may be wrong but I think the lower bb comes from the slacker head tube angle , not sure.


The real difference comes when you sit on the bike and the 12psi rear tire that you'd be running sags a centimeter or more.


----------



## CougarSlayer (Aug 31, 2015)

my brother just picked up an expert in large .. it's pretty effin sweet .. lots of tire clearance 

I like the new Specy droppers .. they work great


----------



## CougarSlayer (Aug 31, 2015)

his came with Scrapers too .. not Roval


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## MrIcky (Oct 2, 2007)

Rob T said:


> Is it me or are the BB heights between the Fuse (305.5mm) and Stache (313mm) miniminal?


The Stache at 313 is the rigid. The Stache with the manitou fork is listed at 329. So it's almost an inch higher comparing the trek v spec models with front suspension.


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

rushman3 said:


> I rented the Trek Stache 7 29+ three times (2+ hour rides) before I bought the Fuse Comp. Why? I'm a big 29er fan and thought I would prefer the 29er +. Nope, it was super fast on the downhill, but slow up hill and slow around tight corners (think Monster truck with 30.6" real tire size).


The Fuse has a longer wheelbase than the Stache.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

I took my Fuse for a spin around the neighbourhood last night and blew the rear tyre off the rim doing a small bunnyhop off a gutter. I had 20PSI in the tyres, too. I'm not sure how well these will work for me without tubes


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## tooberand (Sep 28, 2011)

I've gone tubeless on mine and am running 15 in front and 16 in back. Mine has been solid so far going off one foot drops as well as going on the green downhill runs at Keystone (which I must say was a blast). 20 seems high and more likely to have blow out issues. I'm also on the Roval rims, but I'm not sure how much of a difference that makes.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

20PSI is just what I was running last night because I was riding pavement. I normally run much lower. I'm pretty damn heavy, too.


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

Wow... I'm 205 lbs, I've been running 15 psi front & back tubeless for the last month on the scrapper rims. I've be riding on some pretty chunky trails with 2-3 foot drops with good landings. I haven't even burped my tires yet. I've bee shocked at how solid the wheels have been.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

I'm 70pounds heavier than you. Very tall.


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## crashedupderby (Nov 21, 2005)

just picked up a fuse pro, have three rides on it. I weigh 220# and am running 17psi in the rear and 16-15psi in the front. I feel I need to run about 17.5psi in the rear maybe. this bike rides more like a 29er than a 27.5. I am trying to find the new edge of the cornering envelope, its pretty dry here so I am taking it slow. Fun bike so far!


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

crashedupderby said:


> just picked up a fuse pro, have three rides on it. I weigh 220# and am running 17psi in the rear and 16-15psi in the front. I feel I need to run about 17.5psi in the rear maybe. this bike rides more like a 29er than a 27.5. I am trying to find the new edge of the cornering envelope, its pretty dry here so I am taking it slow. Fun bike so far!


pics or it didn't happen !

j/k

congrats !


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Just ordered my wife a Ruze Comp for Christmas. My LBS snagged one out of the October shipment just in case they sell out, they'll use it as a display bike til Christmas.

My wife has zero riding experience except for when was a kid, but lately she expressed interest in riding with me and the kids (6 y.o. who trail rides with me and a 3 y.o. who is about to move up to a Spawn Furi). This *may* be overkill, but she can grow into it, plus there isn't anything I'd upgrade compared to like a Jynx or a Jett, plus it is 1x, I see no point in teaching her 2x like on the Jynx when 1x is taking over.

Side note: In Spring I'm taking delivery of a Stumpy FSR Carbon Comp 6fattie, and that has the narrower rims, so I can swap wheels with her bike if we, you know, think the wider wheels are better for my Stumpy


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

I'm considering on for a jump bike, looks good on paper, anyone take one to a jump park?


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

After I converted mine to tubeless I did a small gutter jump and blew the rear tyre off the rim. Turns out I stretched and damaged the bead. Nothing bad looking but not it won't hold air tubeless so I have to go back to using tubes in the rear or buying a $100 tyre. Even pressing lightly on on the bead sends fluid squirmy out everywhere. Disappointed  I'll try Maxxis Chronicle next.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Will a 3.5 fit ?


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Tech, maybe in the front, for sure not the rear.

PS. I went tubeless and is a really easy to convert and no problems so far


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Thx rushman3,wider front is a good combo! just purchased a Fuse! I was torn going full fat but here on Eastern Pa snow is funky and was looking at 4" max, really want more for more dirt and should do ok on some snow conditions as well. the geometry is spot on for my needs!!!


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Tech, I plan on putting a wider tire on the front and after checking all the products announced at Interbike, there are many new 27.5+ tires coming out soon.

I went tubeless and at the moment running 14# rear and 13# front (my wt.195#). Needed a new gauge that went between 0-15#. Its amazing I can feel 1/2# difference in tire pressure riding.

The Ground Controls are really good and low cost ($55) and when they are available at the Specialized web site, I will pick up some Purgatory 27.5 x 3.00 tires.


----------



## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

rushman,were at same weight,what is your overall impression so far on the Fuse? Pannaracer has a 3.5 .


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## CougarSlayer (Aug 31, 2015)

Should be going to the bike park soon. With a fuse pro .. will report back

Sent from The Bunny Ranch


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Bought the Comp with RF Turbine cranks and 30t NW chainring plus Xt plus rear derail and saint shifter for a swinging deal,already set up tubeless. Will see how I like the Suntour fork and maybe upgrade that. Will see also about tektro brakes get mixed reviews about them.


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Tec, The stock brakes are Ok, very usable, but will upgrade to XT with time.

The Ground controls work well here in Tahoe and Bend Oregon, where its dry, dusty with some rock gardens. On dirt they stick like glue. Prepare to use your brakes a lot less, I keep pushing the speed into cruves and it feels like a slot car railing at speed.

As I get to know the bike, its more fun with every new ride.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

Here's a few more photos of my Fuse Expert. I've converted the wheels to tubeless with Stan's valves/fluid (very happy the rims came pre-taped!), added Shimano Saint M820 brakes with 203mm/180mm IceTech rotors, super wide Enve carbon riser bar, 70mm Syntace Megaforce 2 stem, Ergon GE1 grips, RaceFace crank boots, XTR Race pedals, Specialized IR Command Post with the lever from a KS LEV, Thomson seatpost clamp, Specialized SWAT Zee-cage with tool, Specialised Top Cap Chain Tool, Titanium hardware throughout. Regreased and properly tensioned the rear wheel bearings which came so tight they wouldn't turn at all.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

How does sizing fit with everyone! I just purchased a mediun fom a chap used who is 6'2 with 32" inseam,I have same inseam but am 5" 11. he said large felt to big.I had a 2013 Camber Evo also in medium,generally I run large frames.Specialized seems to run their sizing bigger then other bike .companies .


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## CougarSlayer (Aug 31, 2015)

I like the large .. am 6-1 with 31" inseam

Sent from The Bunny Ranch


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Pics of rear tire clearance please and front with Suntour fork.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

Oh here's the weight. This is with a tube in the rear as I damaged the bead and it won't run tubeless for now. A little heavier than I originally thought but plenty light for a XXL.


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## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

techfersure said:


> Pics of rear tire clearance please and front with Suntour fork.


I don't have the Suntour fork but here's the rear tyre clearance. Plenty at the seatstays, a little at the chainstays.


----------



## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Picked mine up yesterday. First ride was amazing!


----------



## rob1208lv (Sep 8, 2007)

anyone know the weight of the fuze pro medium out the box?


----------



## 1spd1way (Jun 30, 2006)

Has anyone gone from full fat to this size?
We are looking at the ruze and fuze but, only ride full fat now.
Is it just less of the same thing?


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## carthief (Aug 11, 2014)

rob1208, I can weigh mine tomorrow with the swat bottle cage on it and tubeless if that helps?

1spd, that's way to subjective for me to give you a definitive answer. It definitely has less float in soft sand. Too new to tell you about snow. For me it's way more nimble, faster to get up to speed yet maintains the truck like ability to crush obstacles. I seriously don't worry about picking lines as much as I just try to maintain momentum and let the bike do the rest. I'm in love with mine, been riding it a lot since I got it in September. You should absolutely test ride it to see if it's for you guys.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

elmar said:


> rob1208, I can weigh mine tomorrow with the swat bottle cage on it and tubeless if that helps?
> 
> 1spd, that's way to subjective for me to give you a definitive answer. It definitely has less float in soft sand. Too new to tell you about snow. For me it's way more nimble, faster to get up to speed yet maintains the truck like ability to crush obstacles. I seriously don't worry about picking lines as much as I just try to maintain momentum and let the bike do the rest. I'm in love with mine, been riding it a lot since I got it in September. You should absolutely test ride it to see if it's for you guys.


Totally agree! I'm coming from a long travel 26 so it's quite a difference for me.

And just as a reference, my large fuse comp weighed in at ~14kg with stock pedals and a clunky bottle cage my lbs put on.


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## 1spd1way (Jun 30, 2006)

I am struggling with a hard tail 27.5+ and a full sus 27.5.

There is no place close to "test ride" any so I have to buy on faith....


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## rob1208lv (Sep 8, 2007)

elmar said:


> rob1208, I can weigh mine tomorrow with the swat bottle cage on it and tubeless if that helps?
> 
> That would be awesome - thanks


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## carthief (Aug 11, 2014)

I'm right at 29lbs but I don't think that's accurate. I think it's a good 1-1.5 less. I'll see if the shops around here have a better scale 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

My Comp comes in at 28.4 tubeless, RF Deus cranks, Saint shifter and Xt Plus derailleur.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

techfersure said:


> My Comp comes in at 28.4 tubeless, RF Deus cranks, Saint shifter and Xt Plus derailleur.


What size?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Medium, and fits perfect,I'm 5' 11" with 33" inseam, this is the second Specialized I've owned and that too was a medium. I have a Mach 6 and a Trek Superfly both large, seems Specialized frames run bigger then others. Anyone else experience this with fit ?


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Anyone know the rear. der. hanger part number, for a spare?
.
Or if a bigger NW chainring is available? The Stout cranks are 76bcd, not sure if the SRAM rings are the same size. N/W oval would be great.....
.
What tire pressure gauge are people using to accurately get 15-18 psi? All my gauges have different results! .
.
Some pics....
.


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## wmb (Jul 5, 2007)

Scottay, Nice bike. cool pics. Where is that?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

*Fuse Comp with upgrades*









Glad I took a chance on it, but helped that price was right! A real pleasure to ride really responsive in all terrain, especially like the geometry for technical and features very stable on technical climbs too.


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Scottay: I see you upgraded to the Fox 34. How has it changed the ride?

Thanks


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Thanks. The pics are in Socal, Santa Clarita area.
.
I replaced the fork before the first ride. This is a replacement for my Yellie Screamy, so I knew it was gonna see some good chunk and fast DH sections. Bike is very capable and eats up all rocks and ruts in it path. Handles well too in tight swoopy sections and fast flowy stuff. Wheelies/manuals great!
Getting lots of chain slap, even with the protector that came on the bike. It may be the weak X7 rear der? I think the chain has a couple too many links it it also. I wrapped more rubber on it, seems better now.
..


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Scottay: So the 34 is 110 boost as well as the 32, curious about tire clearance.


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## Okidoki (Sep 25, 2015)

rob1208lv said:


> anyone know the weight of the fuze pro medium out the box?


LBS weighed my med stock pro at 28 lb 6 oz, with tubes and stock pedals.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

techfersure said:


> Scottay: So the 34 is 110 boost as well as the 32, curious about tire clearance.


Yes, its also Boost. Plenty of clearance, click on the pics I posted, you should be able to see the top of the fork pretty well. Stock i45 Scraper and tire.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

techfersure said:


> Medium, and fits perfect,I'm 5' 11" with 33" inseam, this is the second Specialized I've owned and that too was a medium. I have a Mach 6 and a Trek Superfly both large, seems Specialized frames run bigger then others. Anyone else experience this with fit ?


I'm about the exact same size and went with a large. Medium would feel too small for me I think.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

So hey everyone, my wife's Ruze Comp arrived at the shop, and the shop was assembling it and the chain was cut wayyyy too short at the factory.

Noticing this caused them to notice that the chain is like super thick and the chain ring has super thick teeth- they were going to put a SRAM chain on it but it wouldn't fit over the ring teeth!

They had to take pics and send them to Specialized who were unaware of this.

Sooooo beware anyone who has the same chain and chain ring as the Ruze Comp, if you need a chain replacement it might be...weird. They are probably going to comp me an XX1 ring or something the shop said so we can put a normal SRAM 1050 chain on it.


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## yamaha46 (Jul 17, 2009)

Is it a narrow wide cog?

Probably trying to put the chain on without lineing up the narrow and wide so it meshes. 
Shops also like to put full length chains on so the chain may be the right size as it is (only has to wrap the large cog). Some shops have no knowledge what so ever, so would not surprise me at all if this is the case.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

No, the shop is 100% legit, they are super attentive and MTB oriented. I did out of curiosity ask them about the narrow-wide profile though, they did check that.

The KMC chain, it wraps around the 28T front ring just fine. However, when they realized it was too short (pic of the too short chain below) when they tried to put another 10 speed chain on it (SRAM 1050) the SRAM chain didn't wrap around as many teeth on the front ring. So the weird part is that the chain that came with the bike fit perfectly...

So then in essence, that means that both the chain and the front ring are wacky? So they're going to try a 1050 with a different ring per Specialized.


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## yamaha46 (Jul 17, 2009)

Chain looks like it would work in that picture (still room for the mech to come up to take the big cog). Maybe could add a link. Would have to see a picture of it in the small cog. 
If you get a longer chain put on then check that there is still sufficent chain tension in the smallest rear cog.
Don't understand how the other chain wrapped less teath? Was it not meshing with the cog? being held off?
Can't see how there could be a problem unless chains or cogs are bent.

Interested to hear the results off this. 
Hope they get it sorted for you soon.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

I agree, it would probably work at that length. Mine is longer, I think that may be one reason I get so much chain slap/noise. But I want to get a larger chainring, so it will be ok till then. Just wrapped the stays better.
Lemme know how that SRAM chainring works. The 76 BCD they used isnt real common.
BTW, I had my rear wheel off and noticed it would barely spin in my hands. Bearings were super tight. May wanna check that after a few rides. My wheel was never very true from the factory, another thing to keep an eye on.


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## onlybirdman (Feb 12, 2015)

@ Scottay

Would you shed some light on the similarity and differences between the *Yelli* and *Fuse*? Very interested in both bikes. You mentioned that the Fuse handles well which is one of my concerns when comparing with the Yelli.

I've been in the market for a FUN hardtail, capable of 29er and 650B+, and I've been looking at:
EPO
Yelli
Honzo AL 2016
Stache+
Fuse/Ruze

Everyday I lean towards a different bike, not one bike is the clear winner for me so far. The winner for today is the Fuse, although not a fan of its standover height.

*Anyone having trouble with the Fuse's standover height?*
I'm 5'8" with 31" inseam without shoes. My current bike has 29.5" standover height and I feel like that's about as high as I'm comfortable with.


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## onlybirdman (Feb 12, 2015)

Delete, double posting...


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## trailnimal (Mar 1, 2004)

onlybirdman said:


> Everyday I lean towards a different bike, not one bike is the clear winner for me so far. The winner for today is the Fuse, although not a fan of its standover height.
> 
> *Anyone having trouble with the Fuse's standover height?*
> I'm 5'8" with 31" inseam without shoes. My current bike has 29.5" standover height and I feel like that's about as high as I'm comfortable with.


Being 5'5" with 29 inseam, I also have a hard time getting sufficient standover. Small frames will come with shortened cranks or less travel fork, that is why I went with a Medium Fuse. I have enough clearance for stand over, but no extra. I find that I really don't need anymore. When I bail on a technical section it is off to the side. Other bikes, for example the Stache, I could not even stand over. On the Medium, I find the reach is well within my range, and I actually have the seat set back a bit.

I need some suggestions. I have an "Expert" and I'm finding it to be rather heavy. I'm actually slower on it than my FS 26er. Trying to decide if it could be lightened up without spending a fortune. The scrapers are heavy, but a wheelset is too expensive and I want the wide profile. Maybe switch the stout cranks for X0? Any other suggestions?


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Trail,

I have the Fuse Comp (its was the Red color that sold me). Try a Carbon bar, go tubeless (super easy) and play with the tire pressure to start. I got the Niner RDO carbon bar that came at 780, but I cut it down to 760. 

Next spring, I will get some wide carbon wheels and check out what new tires that will be available.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

trailnimal said:


> Being 5'5" with 29 inseam, I also have a hard time getting sufficient standover. Small frames will come with shortened cranks or less travel fork, that is why I went with a Medium Fuse. I have enough clearance for stand over, but no extra. I find that I really don't need anymore. When I bail on a technical section it is off to the side. Other bikes, for example the Stache, I could not even stand over. On the Medium, I find the reach is well within my range, and I actually have the seat set back a bit.
> 
> I need some suggestions. I have an "Expert" and I'm finding it to be rather heavy. I'm actually slower on it than my FS 26er. Trying to decide if it could be lightened up without spending a fortune. The scrapers are heavy, but a wheelset is too expensive and I want the wide profile. Maybe switch the stout cranks for X0? Any other suggestions?


Bars, pedals, tubeless would certainly save you some weight.

On Saturday I brought my comp in to the dealer because of head set noise. Bottom bearing was already totally shot and the top bearing was filled with sand. I don't live in a very Sandy area so that's a bit of a surprise. Repaired under warranty. Keep those bearings greased guys!


----------



## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

onlybirdman said:


> @ Scottay
> 
> Would you shed some light on the similarity and differences between the *Yelli* and *Fuse*? Very interested in both bikes. You mentioned that the Fuse handles well which is one of my concerns when comparing with the Yelli.
> .........
> ...


Sorry for slow reply.... the major "Plus " for me was added plushness at the rear. And then the wider tires to handle rutts and added grip. It also feels shorter/smaller to me. New bike mojo probably comes into play also. lol
.
I wouldnt consider standover when frame shopping. But thats just me.....
.


----------



## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Unit91MS said:


> '
> On Saturday I brought my comp in to the dealer because of head set noise. Bottom bearing was already totally shot and the top bearing was filled with sand. I don't live in a very Sandy area so that's a bit of a surprise. Repaired under warranty. Keep those bearings greased guys!


Headset noise...like grinding? How did they repair it....just added grease? Are they sealed bearings?..
.
I posted earlier about my rear hub barely spinning.


----------



## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

trailnimal said:


> ....
> 
> I need some suggestions. I have an "Expert" and I'm finding it to be rather heavy... Maybe switch the stout cranks for X0? Any other suggestions?


.
I would like to switch out cranks too. Pretty sure the Stouts are CrMo.
Anyone got info on what cranks would fit? I'm guessing Fatbike cranks are too wide...


----------



## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

scottay said:


> Headset noise...like grinding? How did they repair it....just added grease? Are they sealed bearings?..
> .
> I posted earlier about my rear hub barely spinning.


Yeah, I'd describe it as a gritty or grinding sound. Just didn't seem right. The bottom one had to be replaced. The top could be cleaned and regreased. I unfortunately didn't look close enough at the old bearing, but the mechanic told me they weren't sealed.



scottay said:


> .
> I would like to switch out cranks too. Pretty sure the Stouts are CrMo.
> Anyone got info on what cranks would fit? I'm guessing Fatbike cranks are too wide...


I'd guess most cranks with a 30 mm spindle would fit. I'm not sure how many boost specific crank sets exist yet though.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Unit91MS said:


> ....
> I'd guess most cranks with a 30 mm spindle would fit. I'm not sure how many boost specific crank sets exist yet though.


Thanks for the bearing info.
.
As far as cranks, boost would require a wider frame and this frame has plenty of tire clearance. Also my cranks have tons of clearance where they pass the chainstays. All indicators to me that the cranks are wider that normal......
Hoping a std, crankset will fit. Only way to find out for sure is to pull it and measure I guess.....


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Hmm.....
.
Shimano XT FC-M8000 Boost Crankset > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA


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## yamaha46 (Jul 17, 2009)

Boost cranks are the same width. Same q factor.
The only difference it places the chain ring/rings 3mm further outboard.

You can use a standard crankset no problem.
Infact my Trek Stache 5 29+ came with single ring cranks that are non boost.
I think a standard crank may actually work better as the rings are nearer the big end of the cassette. Especially with the bigger low gear rings now being used (40/42T).


----------



## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Good info, thx.
.
.


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## dfuzz (Feb 27, 2015)

*Fuse sizing*



techfersure said:


> How does sizing fit with everyone! I just purchased a mediun fom a chap used who is 6'2 with 32" inseam,I have same inseam but am 5" 11. he said large felt to big.I had a 2013 Camber Evo also in medium,generally I run large frames.Specialized seems to run their sizing bigger then other bike .companies .


I'm just under 5' 11" and went with a medium. I have normal-ish proportions, longer in torso and arms if anything. Large felt too long for me...felt like it was XC race bike sizing for me, stretched out.


----------



## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Just did a twenty miler on it and the fit is spot on,running a 55 mm stem.


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## Nevada 29er (Nov 12, 2007)

How tall are you?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

5' 11" with 33" inseam,thought I was a 32" inseam but had some pants fitted and now have an accurate measurement.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

5 ten with a 33 inseam. Large feels great with a 55 stem. Riding it hard , love the bike.
.
Have dropped the chain a coupla times thru some chunky sections.

Anyone got suggestions for a chain guide? No front der. mount.....


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Large felt to long and stretched out. But it is a personal thing and how you like bike to perform.

I have yet to drop a chain,but then I use the Shimano Xt plus and RF narrow wide ring.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

The stock ring is Narrow/wide and the x7 rear der. is clutch type. But I think it may be too weak. I have a XT set-up I may throw on.....or a short cage Zee.

Standard upper guides dont look like they will fit because the frame splits just aft of the BB, right where the guide will sit. I ordered a smaller version like a Pauls Keeper, but not sure it will extend outboard far enuff.

I mounted a Binicon C-guide on the bottom for now. 

I mounted a Sram N/W ring on the Stout cranks. Fit well after grinding a lil off the spider arms. Chain was too snug tho. A 32T would have fit. That may be another reason for dropping the chain, its too long for the 30T it came with.

Also looks like std cranks will fit as someone else suggested. Held mine next to some I had laying around. Except for being PF30, looked real close to the same measurements.


----------



## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Running RF Deus cranks 170mm.like this set up with 30t NW,been hitting it hard on some long steep descents with step downs and lots of poppers,so far chain is holding fine,will see as it wears. XT Plus is definitely an improvement over the stock Sram.


----------



## 29ger (Jan 1, 2011)

I rented a Fuse 6Fattie Comp over the holiday weekend, and thought I'd post another short review.

Fit:
I'm 6'-1", 170lb and rode a large. It's definitely the longest top-tube, shortest stem combo I've tried. I think I could get used to the more forward riding position, but the 740mm wide handlebars were a drawback. I was riding in the woods around Bend, OR, and knocked several trees that I don't think I would have with the slightly narrower bars I have on my other bikes. I had to slow down more when the clearance got tight, and the handling seemed slower having your hands out so wide. I think the benefit of wider bar hit the point of diminishing returns at this size. I run 690mm bars on my 29er, and that seems a lot more reasonable to my arms. Otherwise, the fit was fine once I got the seat to the right height.

The first trail I rode was relatively tame. smooth, not real steep, and had some berms (Mrazek for those familiar with it). I didn't really notice any advantage to the 27.5+ format on that trail. It didn't climb any better, traction wasn't really an issue, and it was a bit slower handling do to the extra mass. I'd have probably preferred the trail on one of my 29ers to be honest. I did mess around with the air pressure in the tires, and eventually got it too low. Coming as a rental bike, it had tubes of course, and I don't think that helped at all.

The 2nd trail I rode was steeper, had some loose areas (Cline buttes). I rode it twice, and it was snowy (1-2") the second day. I didn't have a pressure gage, but pumped up the tires some from the previous ride, and they seemed better, but still not that plush (or any plusher than my 29er with 2.4" tires, but I still blame the tubes for that). But the bike overall did a lot better on this type of terrain. I could tell the traction was better than my regular 29er, but not as good as my fatbike with Nate tires, as would be expected. But it did roll a lot better than Nates. I was faster on it than on my fat bike the previous year, but since the fatibike was rigid, no surprise there. I had no problems with traction in the little bit of snow either.

Overall, would I take it over my 29er (Full suspension)- No, the FS Niner does a better job on the rocky, steep stuff, takes hits better, and in a lot of situations I think is more fun. Would I take it over my fatbike? No, I don't think in the end the 3" tires would cut it for a lot of soft-situation riding compared to full fatties. If I could only have one bike, then I might think about it, as it does most of the things of those other two bikes, just not as well. But I think for me, it's too much overlap with what I already have, so I'll try a 29+ next.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Welp, just picked up my wife's Christmas present... she isn't a cyclist but we live right near some really nice gravel trails and mild dirt singletrack, and I'm hoping now that my kids are riding she will join us. Maybe she'll progress to more advanced trail riding, who knows. This present could be awesome, or a dud :lol:

I added some pink lock on grips to spice it up, and Bennies pedals, and my shop surprised me with a Command Post upgrade from the Chinese dropper post (I am a super good customer lol). I like it. Will see how much she rides it before going tubeless.

I could have gotten a Jynx or something but my thinking was the plus tires will give added traction, and the Ruze was 1X which will making shifting easier. Better to err on the overkill side instead of under-equipping her.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Jared - Nice looking Ruze with the pink grips. Great gift choice!

You should go tubeless right away. The tubes are heavy, 290g each, so you save almost 200g per wheel rotating mass using Stans or equivalent. That's noticeable, and it will increase the odds she'll enjoy it and want to keep riding with you. As we know - happy wife, happy life


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

levity said:


> Jared - Nice looking Ruze with the pink grips. Great gift choice!
> 
> You should go tubeless right away. The tubes are heavy, 290g each, so you save almost 200g per wheel rotating mass using Stans or equivalent. That's noticeable, and it will increase the odds she'll enjoy it and want to keep riding with you. As we know - happy wife, happy life


Oh for sure about the tubeless, but first I wanna see if she rides it a lot during the winter, if not I'll just go tubeless in spring. Because either way I'll have to take it to the shop in spring for Stan's, either for fresh if I go tubeless now, or to convert it for the first time.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

XJaredX said:


> Oh for sure about the tubeless, but first I wanna see if she rides it a lot during the winter, if not I'll just go tubeless in spring. Because either way I'll have to take it to the shop in spring for Stan's, either for fresh if I go tubeless now, or to convert it for the first time.


I made my new fuse tubeless tuesday evening, it went very easy. But yesterday when I let som air out to find my perfect pressure it burped all te time. When I squeeze the tire on the side you can hear air coming out. It's the WTB Scraper i45 rim with the standard ground control 3.0 tire. I have done 120ml of Stan's fluid in it.

Anyone any idea?


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## TheFlow (Jul 31, 2015)

zenegroen said:


> I made my new fuse tubeless tuesday evening, it went very easy. But yesterday when I let som air out to find my perfect pressure it burped all te time. When I squeeze the tire on the side you can hear air coming out. It's the WTB Scraper i45 rim with the standard ground control 3.0 tire. I have done 120ml of Stan's fluid in it.
> 
> Anyone any idea?


Get a Schwalbe Procore Kit. You can find it on Ebay, since the distribution to stores is very slow.
It does the job very well, preventing air leaks when the tire leans much on the rim and protecting the rim itself against pinch flats that could damage it. 
You can also halve the amount of latex that are using currently.
I'm using it on Stumpjumper 6FATTIE with ground control 3.0 tire on 29mm roval traverse rim.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

I don't want a procore kit. It has to work on my rim in combination with this tire.


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## TheFlow (Jul 31, 2015)

zenegroen said:


> I don't want a procore kit. It has to work on my rim in combination with this tire.


Hi zenegroen, why don't you want it? 
It works very fine and can solve the issue you have complained. It worked for me.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

zenegroen said:


> I made my new fuse tubeless tuesday evening, it went very easy. But yesterday when I let som air out to find my perfect pressure it burped all te time. When I squeeze the tire on the side you can hear air coming out. It's the WTB Scraper i45 rim with the standard ground control 3.0 tire. I have done 120ml of Stan's fluid in it.
> 
> Anyone any idea?


Don't under why your are having issues holding air,mine works fine with Stans,even sitting a week without use. Just rotated my rear inflated it,sealed right up. Make sure your tire is seated.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

It is holding air that's not the problem. But when I squeeze the side it comes lose and some Stan escapes. I pumped up the tire yesterday evening tot 2,5 bar.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Weird,I just did the tire squeeze multiple times,no issues or leaks.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Maybe I got the pressure to low. I will check it out this evening (Netherlands). What pressure do you got?

Thanks for your reply!


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

16 psi front 18 psi rear


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Ok in the Netherlands we use bar. Thats 1.1 BAR front and 1.2 REAR. My weight is 108KG (238LBS).


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

195lbs with gear for me.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

I try some changing in pressure tonight thank you!


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Hope it works out for you. Like the stock tires,but going to move onto Schwalbe Nobby Nics in near future, more aggressive tread and softer compound for all the rock and roots in my area.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Anybody else used different tires? My rear is going fast....
NN looks like a good choice. Spendy tho.
.
Like Tech said, make sure the beads are fully seated by pumping up to max psi.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

scottay said:


> Anybody else used different tires? My rear is going fast....
> NN looks like a good choice. Spendy tho.
> .
> Like Tech said, make sure the beads are fully seated by pumping up to max psi.


This. You should inflate it to much more than your riding pressure to ensure a good seal. Leave that overnight and then drop the pressure to ride.


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## trailnimal (Mar 1, 2004)

As others have said, pump it up to 20 PSI and make sure it has completely seated on the bead.


On the Ground Control tires, I notice mine are porous and the Stans weeps out constantly. I had to add more sealant. I also find that they have a fair amount of rolling resistance, great traction, but not a fast tire.


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## HHL (Nov 24, 2004)

I would say go more than 20 to seal the bead, however many bar that is. You should hear it pop in at some point. If you can burp it by hand you haven't gotten the bead in correctly. Even deflated, it takes a little force to get the bead off the rim if it is sealed properly.


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## wilson1417 (Mar 25, 2009)

Should I buy a buddies used Pro for $2700(ridden hard with some frame scratches but otherwise rides like a dream) or go new on an Expert for less?
thanks


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

MSRP is $3100 on the Pro. Used bike should be more of a discount I would think.
.


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## wilson1417 (Mar 25, 2009)

whats a reasonable price for a used bike like this? Its seen one really long ride(500miles) and a few shorties.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Tons of variables, but like cars, used bikes drop in value 30-50%. 
New bikes come with a warranty.....


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Yesterday I got the pressure on 1,5 bar (21,7 PSI). I made a nightride and the tires were hold nice on the rim. Next time I try 1,5 bar but maybe thats to hard with my weight of 108kg.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

The Fuse Pro is selling for under $3,000 new. He won't get over $2,400 for that unless you give it to him. At that price, it's a decent deal, but I'd get the Norco Torrent ($2,450) before I'd get a new Fuse. I'm sure it's a heavier beast than the Pro, but otherwise compares favorably to the Fuse to my mind.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Or look for a used Comp,I bought one last fall for 1075.00 in as new condition with RF Deus cranks and XT/Saint derail, shifter upgrades plus Centerline rotors. Added Renthal bars and Easton Haven stem.Just picked up a Fox 34 Float for 500.00.I have a total 1670.00 invested in it.If you don't mind searching for deals and are mechanical you can save mucho bucks and customize one to your liking. The Fuse is a hell of a lot of fun,a great play,exploration bike.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Another tire option.
WTB Announces New 27.5+ Tire: The Trail Boss 3.0 | Singletracks Mountain Bike News


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Just picked up a Bridger,what would really excite me would be the Vigilante in 3.0 !


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

scottay said:


> Another tire option.
> WTB Announces New 27.5+ Tire: The Trail Boss 3.0 | Singletracks Mountain Bike News


That tire has been available for months!


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

*Fuse Expert XL with Fox 34*



techfersure said:


> Scottay: So the 34 is 110 boost as well as the 32, curious about tire clearance.


So I have a Specialized Fuse Expert size XL and I am buying the new Fox 34 for it. I am debating on the travel options. I am leaning towards getting the 140mm option or should I keep it at 120mm?

Also, I am paying $700 for the fork new. Is that a good deal?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

tonybah said:


> So I have a Specialized Fuse Expert size XL and I am buying the new Fox 34 for it. I am debating on the travel options. I am leaning towards getting the 140mm option or should I keep it at 120mm?
> 
> Also, I am paying $700 for the fork new. Is that a good deal?


I just paid 400.00 new never ridden shipped,take off of a 6fattie.On ebay they are averaging 500.00-600.00 as take offs,but saw go for 449.00 recently. Bought mine on Pinkbike.


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

you are seeing them that low for a FOX 34 2016 Factory Series? Thanks for the help.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I don't know how the Fuse will handle with a longer front end. The higher front end will slack it out to ~66 degrees and may lighten the front end enough that the steering will be less precise. I felt like tires wandered somewhat already when I demoed the Fuse, but it was my first day on a plus bike, so it may have been pilot error. Folks who have spent more time on their Fuse should be able to provide a better perspective, but if you aren't going for a longer-travel fork, there's probably no reason to switch-out the Magnum. By all accounts, it's a plush, sturdy, and highly adjustable fork.


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## GTR-33 (Sep 25, 2008)

tonybah said:


> you are seeing them that low for a FOX 34 2016 Factory Series? Thanks for the help.


He's not talking a new in the box fork never ridden. Techfersure is talking about "new" "take-off" forks which could be a new OEM fork in a plastic bag that was sold off as excess inventory. It could also be that someone bought a bike and decided they didn't like the stock fork for whatever reason and took it off. In this case "new" and "never ridden" can and do have several different meanings. "Never ridden" could mean "only once", "in the parking lot" or "never ridden hard".

These are all over ebay and no they aren't going to be new 2016 product most likely. These have no warranty. You are partially paying for a warranty/factory support when buying new in the box. You get what you pay for.

I would also keep the same travel. Why increase the travel?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

GTR-33 said:


> He's not talking a new in the box fork never ridden. Techfersure is talking about "new" "take-off" forks which could be a new OEM fork in a plastic bag that was sold off as excess inventory. It could also be that someone bought a bike and decided they didn't like the stock fork for whatever reason and took it off. In this case "new" and "never ridden" can and do have several different meanings. "Never ridden" could mean "only once", "in the parking lot" or "never ridden hard".
> 
> These are all over ebay and no they aren't going to be new 2016 product most likely. These have no warranty. You are partially paying for a warranty/factory support when buying new in the box. You get what you pay for.
> 
> I would also keep the same travel. Why increase the travel?


You are correct about that some out there are OEM forks,the 34 I purchased is the 2016 Factory Kashima 3- position compression adjust,came off a 6fattie S-Works.OEM's are not Kashima is an indicator that it is not Factory.

Warranty work on a non new purchased fork is a fallacy, I just had a Marzocchi warranted and not purchased new and a Pike couple of years ago.


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

techfersure said:


> You are correct about that some out there are OEM forks,the 34 I purchased is the 2016 Factory Kashima 3- position compression adjust,came off a 6fattie S-Works.OEM's are not Kashima is an indicator that it is not Factory.
> 
> Warranty work on a non new purchased fork is a fallacy, I just had a Marzocchi warranted and not purchased new and a Pike couple of years ago.


Thanks everyone for the information and help. I understand what techfersure was saying with OEM versus Factory etc...

techfersure - I am guessing the Fox 34 you found was the 140mm? If so did you put it on your Fuse? I am still debating 120mm versus 140mm on my Fuse XL. Any feedback would be appreciated.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

tonybah said:


> Thanks everyone for the information and help. I understand what techfersure was saying with OEM versus Factory etc...
> 
> techfersure - I am guessing the Fox 34 you found was the 140mm? If so did you put it on your Fuse? I am still debating 120mm versus 140mm on my Fuse XL. Any feedback would be appreciated.


It is the 150mm but the price was worth 40.00 for air assembly to convert to 130mm which I can do myself. I think would be a better fit for the Fuse and not significantly alter the geometry.It has a low BB and am running 170mm cranks,have to be very mindfull of pedal hits on our very rocky terrain in my neck of the woods.


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

techfersure said:


> It is the 150mm but the price was worth 40.00 for air assembly to convert to 130mm which I can do myself. I think would be a better fit for the Fuse and not significantly alter the geometry.It has a low BB and am running 170mm cranks,have to be very mindfull of pedal hits on our very rocky terrain in my neck of the woods.


techfersure - what size did you think would be a better fit for my fuse? 120mm or 140mm? I'm also putting the XT 1x11 drivetrain on it with 175mm cranks. So maybe the extra height of the 140mm fox 34 would be better?

Thanks for the help! Any other opinions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

tonybah said:


> techfersure - what size did you think would be a better fit for my fuse? 120mm or 140mm? I'm also putting the XT 1x11 drivetrain on it with 175mm cranks. So maybe the extra height of the 140mm fox 34 would be better?
> 
> Thanks for the help! Any other opinions would be greatly appreciated.


I have the Comp and the interesting thing about the Raidon fork is how in comparison to my Fox Float 29 120mm how much more stanchion shows while sitting,5" compared to the Raidon 5 3/4" which on paper is more then 130mm closer to 140mm both forks call for same sag. I do not find any unnecessary wandering of front end.I use a 55mm stem. A 10mm on fork difference is acceptable plus or minus on todays geometry.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

tonybah said:


> Thanks for the help! Any other opinions would be greatly appreciated.


.
140 is perfect for me. Nothing this bike cant handle. 
BTW, I run my tire pressure in the high teens, that may help steering some?
.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

scottay said:


> .
> 140 is perfect for me. Nothing this bike cant handle.
> BTW, I run my tire pressure in the high teens, that may help steering some?
> .


I'm going to install as 150mm out of curiosity and see if I like it at that,I don't mind more slack and I too run air pressure in high teens.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

2016 27.5 Boost 34s are 120 and 140


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

scottay said:


> .
> 140 is perfect for me. Nothing this bike cant handle.
> BTW, I run my tire pressure in the high teens, that may help steering some?
> .


Thanks scottay! That is exactly the information I was looking for. I think I will go with the 140 as well.

Do you mind me asking where you bought your fork?


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

I'll PM you.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

scottay said:


> 2016 27.5 Boost 34s are 120 and 140


Fork I have came off a 6fattie S-Works and it is 150mm.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Nice!


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

*150mm Fox Float 34*









Just mounted,does not feel to bad around the hood,will give it a test on steeps up and down tomorrow,going to run 25% sag. I don't mind slacker have a long DH racing history and now racing Enduro's which both run slack,will see.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Placed my order for a comp. 50% deposit it bttr be a rail trail beast!! How's the sun tour performing for those megaclydes?


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## carthief (Aug 11, 2014)

Aloha fellow fatty owners.
What do you guys think about the Maxxis Reckon and Icons that are soon to be available? To be honest I'm happy with the stock ground controls but knew shiny things are always cool.
I have another question for you internet friends: Are the 38mm rims on the pro "bad"? I won't replace them until I kill them but I'm wondering if the better products are a lot more wide.
Thanks!


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Dirt Road said:


> Placed my order for a comp. 50% deposit it bttr be a rail trail beast!! How's the sun tour performing for those megaclydes?


Not to burst your bubble on your Fuse purchase but the Suntour Raidon is not a keeper, a scary unpredictable fork, has a mind of its own and a super noodle. Will serve its purpose until you can upgrade like I did with the Fox.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Broke the Fox 34 150mm in today,did a 9 mile loop 1300 ft of climbing with steep short switch back turns,some fast flow and long steep loose rock descenders at speed. Leaving it at 150mm and loving it no discernable negatives all positives.Removing that scary Raidon gave the bike a whole new fun factor of stability,now more smitten then ever with the Fuse....fire in the hole!!!


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Thx for the info! With a 34 u hit stuff hard.
Yr feelings about someone used to a Reba on a 29er. Up to snuff? Clydewise?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Reba is a great fork,but a Plus size is not even compatible to a 29, and will leave it at that,you soon to will come to your own conclusions,and yes I too currently own a Trek Superfly Al 100 as a comparison and also a Pivot Mach 6 both great and still enjoy what they offer but the Fuse has won me over and is now my go to ride.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Great info! Gave


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

I got a Fuse Expert last month. I have around 50 miles on it in a bit of everything now (east coast focused stuff here). I love the bike as a 2nd bike/B bike/Make-local-trails-that-are-boring-fun again bike.

I wanted to wait to let others be guinea pigs on what works best in the rim width department before investing in wheels, but the hubs on the bike are the weakest link to me. I have nice hubs on my Yeti SB66c and DJer. Looking to grab some closeout Hope 2 hubs and relace the i45 to them...


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Well, got my Fuse Comp today! Seems pretty stout. Coming from mid tier xc bikes, this Spesh seems pretty well built! Slightly unnerving having the front wheel out in chopper land with the slack front! Seems a good value for what is on the table....time will tell on the hubs and sun tour raidon, not to mention the dropper for my Clyde butt! New bike day rocks! Even tho it's -10 out.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

oKayH said:


> I got a Fuse Expert last month. I have around 50 miles on it in a bit of everything now (east coast focused stuff here). I love the bike as a 2nd bike/B bike/Make-local-trails-that-are-boring-fun again bike.
> 
> I wanted to wait to let others be guinea pigs on what works best in the rim width department before investing in wheels, but the hubs on the bike are the weakest link to me. I have nice hubs on my Yeti SB66c and DJer. Looking to grab some closeout Hope 2 hubs and relace the i45 to them...
> View attachment 1049876


Agreed on the hubs, engagement sucks, I'm going hadley hubs with Nextie Carbon 50mm rims.


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

so after a lot of research and time spent looking for a new fork for my Fuse Expert, I ordered a 2016 Pike 140mm 27.5 + with the 110mm hub spacing. I also grabbed an XT 1x11 kit and Wheels mfg PF30 to 24mm BB. The final item to replace will be the low budget rear hub. I'll post pics when done.

I put about 150 miles on her out of the box and destroyed the stock bb. I swapped out the stem for 50mm thomson and renthal bars.

Love the bike.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

tonybah said:


> I put about 150 miles on her out of the box and destroyed the stock bb.


Funny you mention that because I took out a demo Fuse with probably that many miles and as the bb "warmed up" during a 3hr ride it creaked like the frame was falling apart. The demo became unbearable by the end. Great bike though, just another observation on the cruddy bb.


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

darkhorse13 said:


> Funny you mention that because I took out a demo Fuse with probably that many miles and as the bb "warmed up" during a 3hr ride it creaked like the frame was falling apart. The demo became unbearable by the end. Great bike though, just another observation on the cruddy bb.


Yup. My buddy has the same Fuse and his sweet Samox bb failed after about 50 miles. Another example of how Specialized likes to cut corners on important parts. Those cranks are awful as well. And don't get me started about that sweet Manitou Magnum fork.

I am half joking, I only paid $1,100 for my Fuse expert so I am okay with swapping out the cheap stuff as it breaks.


----------



## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Must be hit or miss with the PF30 BB. My BB on my specialized fatboy has no creeks or other issues. Neither does my samox crank. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

I am going to be replacing the headset on my 2016 Fuse XL.

Anyone know which size I need?

Is this the one?

Cane Creek 40 Series ZS Tapered Headset 44/56


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

tonybah said:


> Yup. My buddy has the same Fuse and his sweet Samox bb failed after about 50 miles. Another example of how Specialized likes to cut corners on important parts. Those cranks are awful as well. And don't get me started about that sweet Manitou Magnum fork.
> 
> I am half joking, I only paid $1,100 for my Fuse expert so I am okay with swapping out the cheap stuff as it breaks.


Just replaced BB, new Fox Factory fork,just put on Formula T1 brakesset that a friend gave to me and a 32 Absolute Black Oval. Headset soon. Like you I bought my Fuse Comp super cheep with some upgrades all ready added. Been neglecting my other two bikes I like it so much!


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## Dean-O (Feb 19, 2016)

Just picked up my Fuse Pro last night size small. Looking forward to my first ride Sunday and the weather looks great. Only mod on this bike is the grips and the only test rides I have done is on the one I ordered and bought since no one had one around here. Coming off almost 4 years of only having a single speed and still keeping up with my friends riding FS, I fully expect to rip on this bike. More to come!


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## LFJ (Dec 6, 2004)

Does anyone have a set of stock wheels that they are looking to sell ?
thought maybe someone upgraded or want to sell and then upgrade.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

LFJ said:


> Does anyone have a set of stock wheels that they are looking to sell ?
> thought maybe someone upgraded or want to sell and then upgrade.


I will in the next several weeks,if your not in a rush.


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## LFJ (Dec 6, 2004)

ok. let me know.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

LFJ said:


> ok. let me know.


Will do.


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## LFJ (Dec 6, 2004)

sounds good


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*Two stock wheelset take-offs for sale*

I have a set of the stock alloy 38mm wheels from my Fuse Pro if anyone is interested.

My wife has a set of the stock wheels from her Comp Carbon 6Fattie Stumpy if you prefer the narrower 30mm rims.

Both are in great shape, include XD driver.

Will provide pics, can ship conUS.

Shoot me a PM.


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## LFJ (Dec 6, 2004)

PM sent


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## LFJ (Dec 6, 2004)

found a set...i appreciate all the responses.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Wondering if anyone tried the fuse as a traditional 29er and their findings? I'm interested because I would like to acquire a set of boost 29er wheels for summer street riding to mess with the bmx kids on the street. With big apples mounted. Prolly not the best use but I'm sure it wood be fun.


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

What are people's thoughts on a good new wheelset for their Fuse. I was thinking of going the light bicycle carbon route with the new hope hubs for $900 but not sure I want a 50mm wide rim. Seems to wide.

Thoughts?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

I am going Light Bicycle 50mm rims and Hope Pro 4's building myself. I find 50mm perfect overall.


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

tonybah said:


> What are people's thoughts on a good new wheelset for their Fuse. I was thinking of going the light bicycle carbon route with the new hope hubs for $900 but not sure I want a 50mm wide rim. Seems to wide.
> 
> Thoughts?


I have the expert with the WTB Scraper rims, they are the same width and I love the width and sidewall support, but I'm planning on going with the LB rims to save some weight and gain some strength/stiffness.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

X3 for the LB rims. They quoted $960 to my door with Hope.
.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

tonybah said:


> What are people's thoughts on a good new wheelset for their Fuse. I was thinking of going the light bicycle carbon route with the new hope hubs for $900 but not sure I want a 50mm wide rim. Seems to wide.
> 
> Thoughts?


It really depends on your budget. I like the Roval Carbon Traverse SL38's direct from Spesh @ msrp $1500.

LB rims I have heard are great. Remember that the 50mm is not internal width... inner width is 45mm, *same as the stock WTB i45 that would come on that bike*.

Any rim with an inner width of 35-45mm should fit the bill, it's up to you what you like.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Dirt Road said:


> Thx for the info! With a 34 u hit stuff hard.
> Yr feelings about someone used to a Reba on a 29er. Up to snuff? Clydewise?


Reba is not a heavy duty fork, it's old tech, and it's certainly not worthy of anything but an entry level bike, get a fork with 34mm or greater stanchions if you're a clyde.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*narrower rims too?*

I like the 38mm (internal width) rim that come on the Fuse Pro - it gives a nice rounded tire profile. Even the 30mm rims that come on the Stumpy 6Fatties are fine. These give a bit sharper profile that's faster rolling with somewhat more nimble handling but still provides a good footprint at lower pressure. Have not had any problems with what folks call "tire roll", but maybe I'm not aggressive enough. Your riding style and terrain will dictate whether wider rims offer advantages.

Some narrow rim choices: Spesh makes a carbon 38mm set, Derby makes a 34mm rim, and LB has 30 and 31.6 carbon rims. Wayne at SuperGear Bike Shop (see Facebook page) has built wheels on Derby and LB rims. For comparison the Roval 38mmSL set with DT350 hubs, XD driver, 54t star ratchet rim tape weighs 1642g, with the 31.6mm LB 32° rims 1594g, and LB 30mm 32° rims a feathery 1477g. The stock wheels on the Fuses are all >2200g. *You'll feel the weight difference!!!*


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Specialized should be embarrassed to spec the Stout hub on any bike, total piece of crap!


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

levity said:


> . Wayne at SuperGear Bike Shop (see Facebook page) has built wheels on Derby and LB rims.
> !![/B]


What are you running? Did he build yours? I've been talking to him, he says he's gonna build those LB 50mm rims very soon....
.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

scottay said:


> What are you running? Did he build yours? I've been talking to him, he says he's gonna build those LB 50mm rims very soon...


Wayne built us the two LB/DT350 boost wheelsets described above, and we're very happy with them. (BTW, the rim weights were each a few grams _less_ than LB quotes on their site.)

The LB 45mm internal rims are also light, listed as 450g similar to the narrower (but deeper) 31.6mm rims. I chose not to go with the 45s because I didn't want the tires to be any more squared off than they are on the 38mm rims. Mrs levity and I like the lively feel the narrower rims and rounder tire profiles provide. FWIW, note that Specialized uses 30mm carbon rims on their S-Works Stumpy 6Fattie.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Thanks for the info. I think if you are gonna go 6Fat you may as well use fat 45/50 rims. 
.
Dont see why Ibis made a bike that doesn't fit 3.0 tires.....
.
When does the carbon Fuse come out?


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

In terms of rim width I have both the FUSE with id 38mm rims and the Rhyme with id 29 rims. For everyday riding I found I actually preferred the id 29. Just seemed that the tire feel changed more with pressure than the id 38. So if I wanted a hard fast rolling tire just pump that sucker up, soft squishy tire let some air out. The id 38 seemed to square off the tire more and it always would roll with a noticeable greater resistance. For sand though I do prefer the id 38 as the squared off tire does not wander as much. 

This is just my experience and feeling on the bike. I am a smaller lighter weight rider so that may have something to do with it. Also I am sure tire sidewall and tread pattern can change things up. Just my experience.

Have fun!


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

Can someone confirm that this is the right headset replacement for my specialized Fuse Expert?

Cane Creek 40 Series ZS Tapered Headset 44/56 - Black, One Size

http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-40...d=1456262371&sr=1-8&keywords=cane+creek+40+zs

Is the tall size the right one to go with? I don't have my bike in front of me and need to buy it.


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## nibb (Feb 20, 2016)

Thinking about putting a Pike dual position, with 130/160 mm. Changing it to 120/150 is quite expensive. Any concerns/experience with 160mm?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

I'm running 150mm and IMO works great,no issues with climbing or even very narrow steep off camber does not wander.What I really like about extra travel in the big boulder tech we have with steep drops one is 4" I just nose it a bit to let fork take the brunt of landing. You don't want to use a Plus size fork?


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

I've got a 140mm pike on order for my fuse. I'll let you know how it is when I get it.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

JillRide45 said:


> In terms of rim width I have both the FUSE with id 38mm rims and the Rhyme with id 29 rims. For everyday riding I found I actually preferred the id 29. Just seemed that the tire feel changed more with pressure than the id 38. So if I wanted a hard fast rolling tire just pump that sucker up, soft squishy tire let some air out. The id 38 seemed to square off the tire more and it always would roll with a noticeable greater resistance. For sand though I do prefer the id 38 as the squared off tire does not wander as much.
> 
> This is just my experience and feeling on the bike. I am a smaller lighter weight rider so that may have something to do with it. Also I am sure tire sidewall and tread pattern can change things up. Just my experience.
> 
> Have fun!


Really, to get the most out of tires profile using a 45-50mm rim is best choice for full tire contact, narrow rims round the tire more and defeats the intended purpose of using a 3.0 tire.


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## Dean-O (Feb 19, 2016)

*Fuse Pro size small has 120mm Fork*



trailnimal said:


> Being 5'5" with 29 inseam, I also have a hard time getting sufficient standover. Small frames will come with shortened cranks or less travel fork, that is why I went with a Medium Fuse. I have enough clearance for stand over, but no extra. I find that I really don't need anymore. When I bail on a technical section it is off to the side. Other bikes, for example the Stache, I could not even stand over. On the Medium, I find the reach is well within my range, and I actually have the seat set back a bit.
> 
> I need some suggestions. I have an "Expert" and I'm finding it to be rather heavy. I'm actually slower on it than my FS 26er. Trying to decide if it could be lightened up without spending a fortune. The scrapers are heavy, but a wheelset is too expensive and I want the wide profile. Maybe switch the stout cranks for X0? Any other suggestions?


I'm the same size, 5'5" though closer to 30" inseam. I bought a small Fuse pro and much to my surprise the fork is set up for 120mm.

Rides great, I'm like...whatever.... Anyone have a small?


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

I am 5'6" 31 inseam and have a small Pro. Fork is set at 100. 


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## Dean-O (Feb 19, 2016)

H'mm.

My fork has a 120mm label right on it though perhaps its set to 100mm. Before I set my fork pressure I had it real soft and it seemed to compress the whole 5 inches or about 120mm. There is that much upper stanchion showing with the rubber ring on it and its seemed to travel the whole way bottom to top when compressed. 

See if you have a label on the fork. its on the back of the lower stanchion I'll look again too. Anyhow it rides great but just curious. Geez, do I really have a small? ha ha. I better look. Again I got it fitting like perfect and the stand over is tight, but I'm not one for stopping too much so...

Peace,


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

Double checked and the label on the fork says travel 100mm and it measures at 100. I have a small and with a very similar inseam as yours, I have about 3" standover. Does your bike measure 15.5 from center of cranks to seat collar?


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## Dean-O (Feb 19, 2016)

I did confirm it is a 15.5 both by looking at the label and measuring it. I have about an inch or so standover. I'm saying somehow I have a small with 120mm of travel and what the heck, I'm loving it even if it slack the bike slightly more.

The one thing I did notice is it climbs very well but hopping a log pile while going uphill is a tad scary with the high front end. Its a very minor observation and I'm fine with it. 

On another note, I just saw the wider Scraper rims on a Cannonade at the shop. I'm glad I got the fuse pro and like the 38 wide better. I don't want to ride a truck. If I were to trick this bike I think the Schwable tires and the Roval carbon 38s would knock 2 pounds off and make this thing really nimble. 

For now, i'm just gonna ride it the way it is. Thanks for you input!

D


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

Great Dean! If for some crazy reason you decide the fork rides too high you can change the travel with a $25 airshaft. But I would probably just put on bars with a drop like the niner bars to get you lower. I have the small with 100mm travel and will probbably set it up with 120 travel. Just to let you know I changed out my wheels to carbon and still have the Spesh Purg and GC on it and the bike weighs in at 25 without pedals. Changing to the carbon wheels changes the bike dramatically. 

Have fun!


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

*1st ride Fuse Expert*

Hi all, first ride on Fuse Expert today. Short version- fun!!

Did 14 miles single track. Flowie in places, techie in others. Had a blast. The traction on the downhill sections in the turns was incredible. Purgatory up front and Ground Control out back both set at 15. Will play with less in front, back felt perfect. When I ran off the trail, it was easy to just ride back on to it. Running through real tight turns reminded me of dropping off the cat-tracks into the bumps at the ski hills. When I got behind in the turns, I could reef on the bar a bit and get back on track. It seemed like I was riding the outside of the turns a lot. 
It was nice to have lower gears for the uphills. Shifted good. Wide bars felt good. The loud yellow will help Search and Rescue find me in the future. 
Both brakes felt like crap initially. The front one started working real well with good power and modulation. The rear brake seemed to need a lot of pressure to get minimal braking. Found I was feathering the back and just letting it rip in many spots. 
This thing just felt sooo stable at speed. First suspension fork for me, seemed to work good. I may need to let a little air out of it. I used 3.25 in travel today. I thought I would really like the dropper post, did not use it much because the bike was so easy to ride fast already. 
The uphill traction was good. On steeper climbs the front end was light and easy to lift over the obstacle- just how I like it. It did climb good. 
I didn't need to mind the lines nearly as much as with my other bike. It just went over everything in front and the back came along for the ride.
Going out again tomorrow. Different trail.
For reference my other bike is Karate Monkey with 32f-34r gearing, full rigid.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

WMBigs said:


> Hi all, first ride on Fuse Expert today. Short version- fun!!
> 
> Did 14 miles single track. Flowie in places, techie in others. Had a blast. The traction on the downhill sections in the turns was incredible. Purgatory up front and Ground Control out back both set at 15. Will play with less in front, back felt perfect. When I ran off the trail, it was easy to just ride back on to it. Running through real tight turns reminded me of dropping off the cat-tracks into the bumps at the ski hills. When I got behind in the turns, I could reef on the bar a bit and get back on track. It seemed like I was riding the outside of the turns a lot.
> It was nice to have lower gears for the uphills. Shifted good. Wide bars felt good. The loud yellow will help Search and Rescue find me in the future.
> ...


Our views are very similar. I have the expert. The back brake does take some pressure on the lever. My LBS set up my fork by my weight and it seems I'll need to lose some air out of mine also to get close to the full travel of the fork. Traction is awesome and bike is stable at speed. I'll need to get mine down to a 28t tho.

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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

I would like the 28 tooth also, who makes them?
Did another 12 miles today, more tech, less flowie. I realized that extremely slow uphills took a lot more body english to keep on the trail, resulted in low speed get off. My right pedal hit an unseen rock and the left pedal extracted blood from left lower leg in another get off. What I like most so far is the stability them fatties give me when the speed comes up a bit and then the ability to get the bike on a new line with a push on the bar- so fun. A few steep down hills got me to dropping the seat as well, nice feature to have! I did hit a couple turns hard and got the tires to go a little squirmy at 15 psi. Hit a few patches of mud- wow. The fatties kept me on top of the mud, but it was like loosing all directional control. Thought another get-off was coming at that point. My dog got ran hard today as my down hill speed has certainly increased. Woo hoo!


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

WMBigs said:


> I would like the 28 tooth also, who makes them?
> Did another 12 miles today, more tech, less flowie. I realized that extremely slow uphills took a lot more body english to keep on the trail, resulted in low speed get off. My right pedal hit an unseen rock and the left pedal extracted blood from left lower leg in another get off. What I like most so far is the stability them fatties give me when the speed comes up a bit and then the ability to get the bike on a new line with a push on the bar- so fun. A few steep down hills got me to dropping the seat as well, nice feature to have! I did hit a couple turns hard and got the tires to go a little squirmy at 15 psi. Hit a few patches of mud- wow. The fatties kept me on top of the mud, but it was like loosing all directional control. Thought another get-off was coming at that point. My dog got ran hard today as my down hill speed has certainly increased. Woo hoo!


My guy at the LBS where I buy my bikes is looking at for an oval 28t for me tomorrow, so hopefully I'll have an answer then.

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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

I'm running a SRAM X-SYNC 28t direct mount chain ring on my Fuse Pro, and mrs levity is running a 26t. These are zero-offset, so they move the chain outward 3mm compared to the OEM 3mm inward offset rings, but they work just fine and give a bit more tire clearance (good for muddy conditions).

Competitive Cyclist sells a SRAM X-SYNC 28t direct mount chain ring _with a 3mm inward offset for Boost_ for $80.

SRAM X-SYNC Direct Mount Chainring | Competitive Cyclist


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

levity said:


> I'm running a SRAM X-SYNC 28t direct mount chain ring on my Fuse Pro, and mrs levity is running a 26t. These are zero-offset, so they move the chain outward 3mm compared to the OEM 3mm inward offset rings, but they work just fine and give a bit more tire clearance (good for muddy conditions).
> 
> Competitive Cyclist sells a SRAM X-SYNC 28t direct mount chain ring _with a 3mm inward offset for Boost_ for $80.
> 
> SRAM X-SYNC Direct Mount Chainring | Competitive Cyclist


Does the pro have a different crank than the expert?

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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Oops, I see that the Expert model uses a "Stout" crank that has a spider to mount the chainring. If the spider is removable you can replace it with a direct mount chain ring.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

My Fuse came with 30th and 11-40 cassette, I found the 30 just to small for my tastes,we have a lot of long and short punchy rocky, rooty climbs and long grinders too a bigger ring is much more manageable and stable when manipulating these tight switch back trails. I recently went 32t oval and am very impressed with it especially for stand up attacking and overall performance of my ride is much more to my liking.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

techfersure said:


> My Fuse came with 30th and 11-40 cassette, I found the 30 just to small for my tastes,we have a lot of long and short punchy rocky, rooty climbs and long grinders too a bigger ring is much more manageable and stable when manipulating these tight switch back trails. I recently went 32t oval and am very impressed with it especially for stand up attacking and overall performance of my ride is much more to my liking.


I'm 220lbs, I can push the 30t, but in really long climbs it gets tiring for me. I rode my Santa Cruz Bronson yesterday and it's quite a bit lower geared in the front, I was definitely less tired on the top of long slogs, so I'm at least going to try a 28t. I might do a whole raceface turbine setup

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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

Just bought a fuse comp on a whim today took it around the neighborhood and did about ten miles pretty happy with the 27+ tires. Hope to get off road at some point this week if weather permits.

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## slowisfast (Sep 29, 2007)

daughters new ride


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

So cool!!


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## saildesign (Aug 10, 2006)

After 5 years of not riding anything (and 10 years since any "serious" riding), I decided a new toy was needed to kick-start the thing. Replaced my 2000 rigid HardRock with the Fuse Comp. Fun!


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

*XT 1x11 on my Fuse Expert*

So just installed the New XT 1x11 (32 in the 11x42 Rear Casette) on my Fuse Expert. I also went with the Wheel Manufacturing PF30 to Shimano BB conversion.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

tonybah said:


> So just installed the New XT 1x11 (32 in the 11x42 Rear Casette) on my Fuse Expert. I also went with the Wheel Manufacturing PF30 to Shimano BB conversion.
> 
> View attachment 1053903


Will the 140mm change the geometry?

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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

Bmcconnaha said:


> Will the 140mm change the geometry?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Sorry I deleted the second half of my post with the side ways pic. It will change it a little bit but I did my research and I am okay with a little bit more slack and travel upfront. A few others on here went with a Fox 34 140mm and 150mm and they are super happy. I may also want to use this Pike on another bike in the future so went for the longer travel option.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Bmcconnaha said:


> Will the 140mm change the geometry?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


It will change geometry a tad,but more slack not a bad thing IMO. My Fox is 150mm and liking it, helps eliminate pedal strikes even with 170mm cranks and 120mm fork I still had to be aware of potential strikes,but now almost completely eliminated


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## fitz-roy (Mar 3, 2016)

Just bought a large Fuse Comp over the weekend and am pretty happy with the purchase. It is surprising how capable the tires make a hardtail with a 120mm fork.

Besides the usual issues people have cited with the fork and rear brake I have a tubeless question. I mounted these up the other night and was totally blown away by how easy it was to get them to take air. Pumped it up to 20psi to let it sit overnight. I used 90ml Stans Sealant for the 3.0" tire. For reference, with my stumpy fsr 2.3 spesh tires I've been using 40-50ml without hassle for the past couple years.

Now both tires lost some air overnight and when I squeezed the sidewall in almost any spot it would burp out a little sealant. Seems it didn't fully take a set. The whole point of tubeless is to avoid issues out on the trail and save some weight, however I'm a little concerned with the durability of this setup. I'm going to try and work the sealant between the tire and rim more but I've never had this problem before. It's either sealed or its not.

So my question for you guys who are running tubeless, how much sealant have you used and have you run into any burping problems on the trail? Purgatory's alot better seal than the Ground Controls?


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

fitz-roy said:


> Just bought a large Fuse Comp over the weekend and am pretty happy with the purchase. It is surprising how capable the tires make a hardtail with a 120mm fork.
> 
> Besides the usual issues people have cited with the fork and rear brake I have a tubeless question. I mounted these up the other night and was totally blown away by how easy it was to get them to take air. Pumped it up to 20psi to let it sit overnight. I used 90ml Stans Sealant for the 3.0" tire. For reference, with my stumpy fsr 2.3 spesh tires I've been using 40-50ml without hassle for the past couple years.
> 
> ...


I went tubeless about the same amount of sealant. My stock tires burped like crazy for about the first 75 miles. I even had one complete blow out. They now don't burp and seem to hold air a lot better. In my opionion the stock tires suck. I am moving to WTB's.


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## GTR-33 (Sep 25, 2008)

fitz-roy said:


> The whole point of tubeless is to avoid issues out on the trail and save some weight,


Actually neither of these were or are the primary driving forces behind tubeless mountain tires. Tubeless mountain does help with punctures and it can be lighter, but the point is lower pressure increasing traction and bump compliance and lower rolling resistance.

Also, Tubeless is not a set it once and forget it system. The initial set-up can be tricky depending on the tire/rim combo. Tires could be made air up easier and hold better, but they would typically have to be heavier. Some guys complain that tubeless tires are too heavy already as they typically weigh more than a non-tubeless tire. There is also a such thing as too much sealant and the sealant take time to work in a dry.


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## fitz-roy (Mar 3, 2016)

GTR-33 said:


> Actually neither of these were or are the primary driving forces behind tubeless mountain tires. Tubeless mountain does help with punctures and it can be lighter, but the point is lower pressure increasing traction and bump compliance and lower rolling resistance.
> 
> Also, Tubeless is not a set it once and forget it system. The initial set-up can be tricky depending on the tire/rim combo. Tires could be made air up easier and hold better, but they would typically have to be heavier. There is also a such thing as too much sealant and the sealant take time to work in a dry.


Do you have a Fuse with WTB Scraper rims?


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

fitz-roy said:


> Do you have a Fuse with WTB Scraper rims?


I do and mine has burped sealant out on a few hits, but never gone flat. Like almost everything about the bike except the fork. I'm really struggling with setup on it.

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## GTR-33 (Sep 25, 2008)

fitz-roy said:


> Do you have a Fuse with WTB Scraper rims?


What does that have to do with anything? I have 40 of them in multiple sizes...

Point remains the same, tubeless isn't what you think it is... If you want ride without worrying about it, stick with tubes. You can try different tires, etc. Tubeless isn't universally executed and neither are tires.


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## fitz-roy (Mar 3, 2016)

Bmcconnaha said:


> I do and mine has burped sealant out on a few hits, but never gone flat. Like almost everything about the bike except the fork. I'm really struggling with setup on it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Yeah thanks man. And tonyba too. That is reassuring its never gone flat.

I've also struggled a little bit with the fork, ended up running slightly lower pressure and ramped up the compression knob and rebound to feel.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

fitz-roy said:


> Yeah thanks man. And tonyba too. That is reassuring its never gone flat.
> 
> I've also struggled a little bit with the fork, ended up running slightly lower pressure and ramped up the compression knob and rebound to feel.


I have done the same.... 52 lbs of pressure, and I'm 210 lbs give or take. Still can't get the travel I want out of it. I have read about a long break In on these forks, and tried the from upside down tricks with a little success.

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## TomB15 (Jan 6, 2015)

GTR-33 said:


> Actually neither of these were or are the primary driving forces behind tubeless mountain tires. Tubeless mountain does help with punctures and it can be lighter, but the point is lower pressure increasing traction and bump compliance and lower rolling resistance.
> 
> Also, Tubeless is not a set it once and forget it system. The initial set-up can be tricky depending on the tire/rim combo. Tires could be made air up easier and hold better, but they would typically have to be heavier. Some guys complain that tubeless tires are too heavy already as they typically weigh more than a non-tubeless tire. There is also a such thing as too much sealant and the sealant take time to work in a dry.


Sealing punctures was most definitely one the primary driving forces behind tubeless technology, if not THE driving force.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

We have set up several GC/Purgatory tire combos tubeless on the Fuse and the Rhyme (stumpy) and have never had a problem with burping. None of these were on the WTB scraper rims though so it is possible the Specialized tires are not playing well with those rims tubeless. I have the Fuse Pro that came with the Roval Alloy 38ID rims, no problem tubeless even riding at 9PSI in the desert (I am lighter weight). I have also set the tires tubeless on LB 30 ID carbon hookless, LB 32 ID carbon hookless, and Roval 38ID carbon rims; always go right on and stay on. As a matter of fact, husband was removing the GC from the LB 32 ID yesterday and had a very difficult time getting it to come off (after only being on there for 1 week). 

Have fun!


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## fitz-roy (Mar 3, 2016)

GTR-33 said:


> What does that have to do with anything? I have 40 of them in multiple sizes...


Because if you don't have experience with WTB Scrapers and Ground Controls or Purgatory tires your comment is just a general definition(aka not helpful). It seems like your intention was correct my mentality of what tubeless means to me and the reasons I use it for instead of actually giving helpful feedback.


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## fitz-roy (Mar 3, 2016)

JillRide45 said:


> We have set up several GC/Purgatory tire combos tubeless on the Fuse and the Rhyme (stumpy) and have never had a problem with burping. None of these were on the WTB scraper rims though so it is possible the Specialized tires are not playing well with those rims tubeless. I have the Fuse Pro that came with the Roval Alloy 38ID rims, no problem tubeless even riding at 9PSI in the desert (I am lighter weight). I have also set the tires tubeless on LB 30 ID carbon hookless, LB 32 ID carbon hookless, and Roval 38ID carbon rims; always go right on and stay on. As a matter of fact, husband was removing the GC from the LB 32 ID yesterday and had a very difficult time getting it to come off (after only being on there for 1 week).
> 
> Have fun!


Thanks! And damn 9psi, dats low! Besides this bike I've only had Roval rims in the past 3 years and I can echo your experiences that Spesh tires and Roval rims stick together like glue.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

I used 3oz of Orange Seal in each wheel. Spec tires and WTB Scraper hoops. Seated right up with the compressor. I bounced them around and left them overnight pumped up rock hard. They leaked air out to almost flat for a couple days. They eventually set with what appears to be the sealant gluing the tire to the rim.

Speaking of wheels and my previous post on the crappy hubs: I managed to make the rear hub come loose on my ride last weekend. The T/A was tight, yet the end cap on one side of the hub backed off and caused things to get wonky. My shop bandaged it up. Said it looked like the axle wasn't aligned right from Spec. I'm not sure how these will hold up, but I will be getting at least a new rear wheel sooner rather than later. 

Also managed to dent/fold the rear rim.....woohoo....

On a positive note, I dropped the fork to 50psi from 80psi while riding and I seem to get a lot more travel out the front. The fork isn't too soft that it bobs while climbing either. I like the feel with this. This makes more sense given the Manitou Circus on my DJer only has about 25psi in it. Ditched SRAM GX for some cheap SLX/XT stuff and used the front shifter to make a dropper remote that doesn't suck.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

tonybah said:


> So just installed the New XT 1x11 (32 in the 11x42 Rear Casette) on my Fuse Expert. I also went with the Wheel Manufacturing PF30 to Shimano BB conversion.
> 
> View attachment 1053903


I'm planning doing this to. I already have the XT setup only not the crank. Which converting set did you use?


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

Anyone have an issues with the rear hubs? Mine sound really bad after less than 50mi. 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

Bmcconnaha said:


> Anyone have an issues with the rear hubs? Mine sound really bad after less than 50mi.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Yea, that stout hub is junk.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

oKayH said:


> Yea, that stout hub is junk.


Ok, thanks. Should I have the LBS replace it with another one (bike is 2 weeks old) or just upgrade it now? I'm going 1X11 soon anyways....

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

I am already planning on just building up new wheels. Just trying to bandage it until I can pull the trigger next month. Let your LBS look it over, if its only 2 weeks old, you'll def have warranty on your side. 

I too, wasn't expecting the rear hub to be so crappy and show its uselessness after such little ride time.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

oKayH said:


> I am already planning on just building up new wheels. Just trying to bandage it until I can pull the trigger next month. Let your LBS look it over, if its only 2 weeks old, you'll def have warranty on your side.
> 
> I too, wasn't expecting the rear hub to be so crappy and show its uselessness after such little ride time.


Ya, the Sram hubs that are on my SC Bronson are still super quiet with 10x the miles on them. Its kind of frustrating.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Trashed mine to,salvaged rim and built up with Hope Pro 4.


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## saildesign (Aug 10, 2006)

Bmcconnaha said:


> Anyone have an issues with the rear hubs? Mine sound really bad after less than 50mi.


NOW you tell me... 
Will keep ears open on my brand new one.


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

zenegroen said:


> I'm planning doing this to. I already have the XT setup only not the crank. Which converting set did you use?


I went with the Wheels Manufacturing PF30 to Shimano 24 BB. It is awesome. Fits perfect and is solid. I decided to not go the adapter route because I wanted a solid BB I could install and forget about. Here it is:

Amazon.com : Wheels Manufacturing Press Fit 30 to Outboard Bottom Bracket with Abec 3 Bearings : Bike Cranksets And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

Bmcconnaha said:


> Anyone have an issues with the rear hubs? Mine sound really bad after less than 50mi.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Yes. Mine is already shot and my LBS is trying to warranty new internals from Specialized. They have set the wrong parts to them twice already.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

tonybah said:


> Yes. Mine is already shot and my LBS is trying to warranty new internals from Specialized. They have set the wrong parts to them twice already.


That's encouraging. Sounds like ill just replace it at my expense with a better hub. Not what I wanted to do. Between the hub, the 1x10 instead of 1x11 and the fork (won't use all its travel, my bike shop has been bugging Manitou for setup help for a week) I'm starting to think I should have bought the torrent.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

Bmcconnaha said:


> That's encouraging. Sounds like ill just replace it at my expense with a better hub. Not what I wanted to do. Between the hub, the 1x10 instead of 1x11 and the fork (won't use all its travel, my bike shop has been bugging Manitou for setup help for a week) I'm starting to think I should have bought the torrent.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


I feel you on the fork, original drive train, and rear hub. It is still some of the most fun I have ever had on a bike. I think the frame is great so I am okay slowly swapping out the other stuff as it breaks.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

tonybah said:


> I feel you on the fork, original drive train, and rear hub. It is still some of the most fun I have ever had on a bike. I think the frame is great so I am okay slowly swapping out the other stuff as it breaks.


I agree, it's a blast to ride, I just didn't expect to have to throw parts at it in 30 mi.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## trailnimal (Mar 1, 2004)

I have a few hundred on mine.
BB had a click the first week but was just dirt, RR and lube fixed it.
Rear hub still fine.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Over 500 hard DH and climbing miles on my Comp. 
Rear hub got tight after a few rides. Re-tensioned the bearings
and has been fine after that. Not a quality hub, but its worked 
fine for me.

The BB started to click after a coupla hundred miles, figured it was toast.
I loosed up the pinch bolts on my Stout crank arm and tightened the center bolt to pre-load the bearings more. Worked great. But I have to do this after every few rides.
Maybe I could locktite it to make it last longer.
I never did tear the BB apart, I'm sure it could use some new grease too.
Same for the headset. 
.
Bike is better than I could have ever imagined. Well worth the $$$.
.
.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Bmcconnaha said:


> Ya, the Sram hubs that are on my SC Bronson are still super quiet with 10x the miles on them. Its kind of frustrating.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Quiet doesnt always translate to "better" with hubs. Not sure what kinda noise you are hearing....


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

scottay said:


> Quiet doesnt always translate to "better" with hubs. Not sure what kinda noise you are hearing....


Grinding, my Sram hub on my Bronson and the stout on my fat boy are both much quieter ad smoother than this hub.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Like I said, mine tightend up. You could try adjusting the tension on the bearings.
May need to clean and re-lube too. I just adjusted tension and kept riding..
.
Good luck!


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

BTW, I'm guessing these are loose ball bearings, like old/lower end shimano hubs with cone bolts.
The higher quality bearings on your other hubs are probably sealed bearings...so much smoother. Just a guess....


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

scottay said:


> BTW, I'm guessing these are loose ball bearings, like old/lower end shimano hubs with cone bolts.
> The higher quality bearings on your other hubs are probably sealed bearings...so much smoother. Just a guess....


Thanks! I'm taking it in now to get checked out.

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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

scottay said:


> Over 500 hard DH and climbing miles on my Comp.
> Rear hub got tight after a few rides. Re-tensioned the bearings
> and has been fine after that. Not a quality hub, but its worked
> fine for me.
> ...


The hub engagement is a joke,but expected on a spec like the Comp,replaced bearings with Sram and machined cups for better seal and spacing.the only thing stock anymore is front hub,HS and rims even with all the upgrades cost me about same as retail stock for Comp.Every component upgrade increased the likability of this frame.


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## saildesign (Aug 10, 2006)

techfersure said:


> The hub engagement is a joke,but expected on a spec like the Comp,replaced bearings with Sram and machined cups for better seal and spacing.the only thing stock anymore is front hub,HS and rims even with all the upgrades cost me about same as retail stock for Comp.Every component upgrade increased the likability of this frame.


"A spec like the Comp....?"

I reckoned for the money the Comp had better be pretty freakin' good, since it cost me about 6 times what my last Specialized cost... OK, that WAS 16 years ago, base HardRock rigid, but that lasted for 16 years, too.

Methinks perhaps some are too picky.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

saildesign said:


> "A spec like the Comp....?"
> 
> I reckoned for the money the Comp had better be pretty freakin' good, since it cost me about 6 times what my last Specialized cost... OK, that WAS 16 years ago, base HardRock rigid, but that lasted for 16 years, too.
> 
> Methinks perhaps some are too picky.


Hub engagement is crucial and a necessity in tech and spin,a BB that lasts only several hundred miles and the Raidon fork a noodle,sticky and blows through travel easily but to be expected,disappointing nontheless. I bought used super cheap with some upbrades already added and did the rest. Best deal and cost for me in a long while four times cheaper then my Pivot Mach 6. Totally agree that it is a super blast to ride.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

Anyone put a slightly longer travel fork on the front?? 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Several 140 and at least 150 has been posted.....
.
.


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## baitdragger (Feb 6, 2007)

Anyone having luck with the Manitou fork on the expert? I emailed them and got crickets....the manual I got with the bike was for the upgraded model

My ground controls are burping sealant....dropper lever sucks, awaiting rear hub to fail

Enjoyed my first ride though, swapped to a 11 speed xo/xt cassette rear


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

baitdragger said:


> Anyone having luck with the Manitou fork on the expert? I emailed them and got crickets....the manual I got with the bike was for the upgraded model
> 
> My ground controls are burping sealant....dropper lever sucks, awaiting rear hub to fail
> 
> Enjoyed my first ride though, swapped to a 11 speed xo/xt cassette rear


My bike has about 50 on it. Look at the beginning of this post, there is some setup instructions for the fork. It most likely will need to be run at lower psi than what is listed on the fork. I'm 220 in gear, and at about 52 psi. Using 90 plus percent of the travel. My friend at the LBS pointed out that the stanchions on the fork are much longer than 120mm, and even though it didn't look like I was using near of all my travel I actually was. The hub is a different story. New one is on the way.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## baitdragger (Feb 6, 2007)

Thx. My inner fork had about 1/2 of its length in dust and half cleaned.

The two adjusters I just have in the middle for now


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Bmcconnaha said:


> My bike has about 50 on it. Look at the beginning of this post, there is some setup instructions for the fork. It most likely will need to be run at lower psi than what is listed on the fork. I'm 220 in gear, and at about 52 psi. Using 90 plus percent of the travel. My friend at the LBS pointed out that the stanchions on the fork are much longer than 120mm, and even though it didn't look like I was using near of all my travel I actually was. The hub is a different story. New one is on the way.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Specialized originally announced 130mm fork,the Raidon fork on my Comp if you went by stanchion measurement was equivalent to a 140mm fork. Replaced with 150mm Fox and leaving it be. Pretty impressed with I can do with this bike!


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## MTB9488 (Jun 18, 2012)

I recently purchased the specialized Fuse comp 6 fattie. I love the bike but the Suntour Raidon 650+ Fork is a little questionable. It has been many years since I had a SunTour fork, didn’t care for it much then but wanted to give the benefit of the doubt. For a low to mid level fork this is not bad but would like it to be a little stiffer and better rebound. When I bought the bike the dealer mentioned SunTour has an upgrade program, anybody familiar with it? What’s the cost and is the next step up fork any better?


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

techfersure said:


> Specialized originally announced 130mm fork,the Raidon fork on my Comp if you went by stanchion measurement was equivalent to a 140mm fork. Replaced with 150mm Fox and leaving it be. Pretty impressed with I can do with this bike!


I think my Manitou has 140 mil on the stanchions. I would be curious to know how much longer the fox is? Mind measuring it for me?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Just shy of 6 3/8 from top of lowers not seal.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

techfersure said:


> Just shy of 6 3/8 from top of lowers not seal.


Awesome, thanks

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Overall all length of Fox was just under an inch longer in comparison to Raidon.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

baitdragger said:


> Anyone having luck with the Manitou fork on the expert? I emailed them and got crickets....the manual I got with the bike was for the upgraded model
> 
> My ground controls are burping sealant....dropper lever sucks, awaiting rear hub to fail
> 
> Enjoyed my first ride though, swapped to a 11 speed xo/xt cassette rear


The fork isn't mind blowing, but it isn't bad enough that I want to run out and buy something else. Run slightly low PSI to actually get full travel.

Are you running the tires at too low of a pressure to have burping issues?

Swap the dropper remote for something else, or make one. I converted an XT front shifter.


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## jkad (Dec 29, 2005)

*1st fuse ride*

Coming off a HT 26" bike this is simply amazing! Definitely still very nimble, was blown away on what I was able to climb, and the rolling resistance was superb. I was expecting the bike to be a bit of a slug, WRONG! This is the first of a few rides for me this season, so I'm still a bit out of shape, however I posted my 2nd best time on certain segments. bang for the $=beautiful!! only negatives I can say would be, the rear hub has lots of play & I had way more pedal strikes than I would have had on my previous bikes. I am truly happy with the purchase and cant wait to ride again!!


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## bmjnyc (Mar 13, 2016)

I'm about to buy a FUSE but have a few questions I'm hoping to get some input on. I have not ridden a mountain bike in 18 years. My past experince is on hardtails, (fat chance), and a stump jumper from back in the day with front suspension..I just moved to Maine from NYC and decided I want to buy a bike...I'm a bit out of the loop...and not mention on a budget..I was set on getting a FS bike when I could afford one, but a decent one seems out of reach for a while now. Also they seem like more bike than I need...I've been spending a lot of time at my LBS and the guys there have recccomened the FUSE as great option for New England riding as well as for cost...I test rode a large size and really loved the feel, though sooo diffreent from my old bikes, almost feels like a pumped up BMX with fat tires! 

My first question is about size. I'm 6'2, 34 inseam, 190lbs...my LBS recccoemmded the large frame..does that sound right? My secoond question...I can get a new FUSE Expert for $2100 at my local LBS or a lightly used FUSE Pro for $2200...I've yet to check the second hand bike...If it's good condition seems like a great deal...but there's something about a getting a brand new bike, and of cousre I'd like to support my LBS...Any input would be greatly apprecaited...Thanks!


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

I'm 5"11" 33 inseam and on a medium,I bought my Comp used from a 6'2" 33 inseam rider and he liked the fit. I generally ride large but Specialized is an anomalie and medium is perfect for me. Personal preference in the end.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Size - You should ride an XL as well as a Large. I'm 6' even, 33" inseam, and ride a Large Fuse Pro. I think the Large is best for about 5'10" - 6'1" depending on torso, leg, arm length, etc., but only a test ride will tell you what's best.

Expert vs. Pro - I'm biased, of course, but feel that the Pro offers some worthwhile advantages: 11-speed, upgraded fork, brakes, cranks, and wheels. Unless the used Pro has been trashed it's a better value and better bike. Your expert won't be "new" after a couple of rides.


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## bmjnyc (Mar 13, 2016)

cant wait to get mine! what size bike is yours?


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

+1 on the expert and its new-ness. If you plan to upgrade beyond what the pro has, start with the expert or even comp. If you just want to ride, grab a pro and enjoy.


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## Dorf411 (Jan 21, 2016)

I have had my Fuse Comp for about a month so far and have about 10 rides on it and I am having some problems. I have never had a bike with disc brakes before so I am not sure what is normal but I am sure mine are not normal. 

A couple rides ago right after having washed it with soap and water I was on a ride and the brakes were grabby. There were spots on the front and rear where they would grab and then seem normal again causing some clunking sound when braking. When I got back I removed the pads and cleaned them by wiping them off with a clean cloth and lightly sanding them with sand paper. Now today again after two totally dry rides they are doing it again. I noticed when I was returning home on pavement and would hit the front brake I could see the fork flexing back and forth when the brake would grab excessively.

The other problem I had today was from the start of the ride I heard a rhythmic clicking when pedaling. It sounded like some sort of clicking in the bottom bracket. The chain was a bit dusty but not terrible and I don't really think that was it. The clicking continued through the whole ride. I have worked on square taper BB but never the newer style, any special tools that I need besides an allen wrench for the non drive side crank arm?

Any thoughts on the brakes and how to make them better? Do I need to clean the discs with alcohol or something?

Other than that I like the bike aside from my crappy off road bike handling skills. I did open the rear hub early on and put some extra quality bearing grease in and adjusted properly. Hopefully that will extend the life of that hub.

Thanks


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

I am 5'10" with long legs ~34" and the large fits me well. 5 rides so far and loving it. Cactus flatted me yesterday, so trying to get the tubeless set up tonight.


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## Dorf411 (Jan 21, 2016)

I'm 6'3" and went with the XXL and I like the way it fits and expect it to fit better when I have a riser bar. However the top tube is pretty high and things get close during emergency dismounts. I may need to give my flats a try for a while to see if things get better using them.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*Got Stan's?*



WMBigs said:


> ... Cactus flatted me yesterday, so trying to get the tubeless set up tonight.


good idea! desert riding hazards, _but no flats!_


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

Just finished the tubeless conversion. Went well, seems to be holding air. I did notice a little push button on the GX rear derailer. There is a little button that can be pushed in to lock the lower part of derailer in the forward position, it takes the tension off the chain and makes wheel installation much easier.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

bmjnyc said:


> I'm about to buy a FUSE but have a few questions I'm hoping to get some input on. I have not ridden a mountain bike in 18 years. My past experince is on hardtails, (fat chance), and a stump jumper from back in the day with front suspension..I just moved to Maine from NYC and decided I want to buy a bike...I'm a bit out of the loop...and not mention on a budget..I was set on getting a FS bike when I could afford one, but a decent one seems out of reach for a while now. Also they seem like more bike than I need...I've been spending a lot of time at my LBS and the guys there have recccomened the FUSE as great option for New England riding as well as for cost...I test rode a large size and really loved the feel, though sooo diffreent from my old bikes, almost feels like a pumped up BMX with fat tires!
> 
> My first question is about size. I'm 6'2, 34 inseam, 190lbs...my LBS recccoemmded the large frame..does that sound right? My secoond question...I can get a new FUSE Expert for $2100 at my local LBS or a lightly used FUSE Pro for $2200...I've yet to check the second hand bike...If it's good condition seems like a great deal...but there's something about a getting a brand new bike, and of cousre I'd like to support my LBS...Any input would be greatly apprecaited...Thanks!


I'm 6'2", 35" inseam and on an xl.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

Dorf411 said:


> I'm 6'3" and went with the XXL and I like the way it fits and expect it to fit better when I have a riser bar. However the top tube is pretty high and things get close during emergency dismounts. I may need to give my flats a try for a while to see if things get better using them.


Holy crap. Same height here and went XL. L would fit if I wanted a more compact feel.

2XL doesn't feel too stretched out?


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## Dorf411 (Jan 21, 2016)

No, it doesn't feel stretched out. I test rode a L at the bike shop and it was way too small. I used measurements from my cross bike to confirm this would be a good fit, I wanted the tallest front end as possible so I wouldn't have too much saddle to bar drop.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

I have upgraded my bike a little bit this weekend. Put a 1x11 XTR drivetrain on it with XTR brakes.


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## MTB9488 (Jun 18, 2012)

Love my Specialized Fuse, but not overly happy with the bottom bracket/bearings. Doesn't spin as freely as I would like and kinda of noisy, I know this is common with a PF30. But what is a good replacement without replacing the crankset?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

My LBS used Sram bearing and seals,but machined the cups for tighter tolerances when crank arm was seated. Still cheaper then a new BB. Of course your LCB would need to also have a machine shop.


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

zenegroen said:


> I have upgraded my bike a little bit this weekend. Put a 1x11 XTR drivetrain on it with XTR brakes.
> 
> View attachment 1056652
> 
> ...


What bottom bracket conversion did you use?


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

Dorf411 said:


> I have had my Fuse Comp for about a month so far and have about 10 rides on it and I am having some problems. I have never had a bike with disc brakes before so I am not sure what is normal but I am sure mine are not normal.
> 
> A couple rides ago right after having washed it with soap and water I was on a ride and the brakes were grabby. There were spots on the front and rear where they would grab and then seem normal again causing some clunking sound when braking. When I got back I removed the pads and cleaned them by wiping them off with a clean cloth and lightly sanding them with sand paper. Now today again after two totally dry rides they are doing it again. I noticed when I was returning home on pavement and would hit the front brake I could see the fork flexing back and forth when the brake would grab excessively.
> 
> ...


You need to seat disc brakes when they are new. Sounds like you may have contaminated them. Use isopropyl rubbing alcohol and clean the rotors and maybe buy new brakes pads. Google how to properly break in and seat new disc brakes. It's really easy to do.


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

Anyone interested in a spare drivetrain for their Fuse Expert or Comp? I have a lightly used Sun Race cassette, chain, stout crankset, sram rear derailleur, and shifter pod for sale for cheap. Make an offer for all of it or any part of it. PM me if interested.

This was off my Fuse Expert. I went XT 1x11.

Thanks!


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

Has anyone fit an oval chainring i.e absolute black on their fuse yet? I'm trying to buy one and confused on which one to buy

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

Bmcconnaha said:


> Has anyone fit an oval chainring i.e absolute black on their fuse yet? I'm trying to buy one and confused on which one to buy
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


What model Fuse do you have? Cranks are different on all of them.


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## tonybah (Feb 12, 2013)

Does anyone know the overal length of the dropper post on a Fuse size XL? I am buying a new dropper post and wondering if I need a 380mm or 420mm overall length? I am going 125mm travel.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

JillRide45 said:


> What model Fuse do you have? Cranks are different on all of them.


Expert

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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

I'll get some photos up with my new setup, but Ive put some sweet upgrades on mine

Fuse Comp Medium
Suntour Fork (getting a 150mm 34 in a week)
Onyx Hubs
X01 Drivetrain
X01 Crankset, 156Q, zero offset absolute black 32 
Specialized Command Post
800mm Race Face Bars
50mm Race Face stem

Bike rides like a champ, on anything less than super rough trails, its every bit as fast as my 26 Enduro. The 32t is acceptable in Colorado, if you are a little fit its fine. The Onyx hubs are a real game changer.

Looking forward to the new fork, maybe some carbon rims in my future. Also, Centerline rotors really compliment the TRP brakes, smooths everything out.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

FastBanana said:


> I'll get some photos up with my new setup, but Ive put some sweet upgrades on mine
> 
> Fuse Comp Medium
> Suntour Fork (getting a 150mm 34 in a week)
> ...


Very nice,The Fox Factory 34 at 150mm is a game changer for sure,slackens it a bit and raises the BB for better clearance. I went with Formula T1 brakes the TPR's had finicky modulation.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I'd like to hear more about the Onyx hubs and how they improve the ride. I'm thinking about a wheel upgrade and am torn between paying for carbon and good engagement or alloy rims and ridiculous engagement. (I assume you just built the yo with the stock Scrapers.)

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

phride said:


> I'd like to hear more about the Onyx hubs and how they improve the ride. I'm thinking about a wheel upgrade and am torn between paying for carbon and good engagement or alloy rims and ridiculous engagement. (I assume you just built the yo with the stock Scrapers.)
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


I demoed a pair of the onyx hubs.... they are sweet, awesome engagement and roll very nice. In the end I went will alloys(lots of chances of rock dings here) and some hope pro 4s. The hopes seem like a great hub and were about the same $$ as the rear only onyx.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

techfersure said:


> Very nice,The Fox Factory 34 at 150mm is a game changer for sure,slackens it a bit and raises the BB for better clearance. I went with Formula T1 brakes the TPR's had finicky modulation.


I like the idea of the fox 150.... wish I could try one before i pulled the trigger. Any idea how far it took the BB up??

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Bmcconnaha said:


> I like the idea of the fox 150.... wish I could try one before i pulled the trigger. Any idea how far it took the BB up??
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


I never actually measured the difference, but the Fox is just under an inch longer then the Raidon. I already had 170mm RF cranks on but still would clip crank arms/pedal if I got lazy, pretty much eliminate hits now. I really thought I would bring fork down to 140-130mm but gave it a shot as is at 150mm, glad I did, works very well for the aggressive way I ride.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

techfersure said:


> I never actually measured the difference, but the Fox is just under an inch longer then the Raidon. I already had 170mm RF cranks on but still would clip crank arms/pedal if I got lazy, pretty much eliminate hits now. I really thought I would bring fork down to 140-130mm but gave it a shot as is at 150mm, glad I did, works very well for the aggressive way I ride.


Did you post any pics of it with the new fork?? I bet it looks sharp

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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Yes,on page 8.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

The brakes r really touchy on my comp. makes the su tour blow through the travel like a wet noodle down the garbage shoot. Need some anti dive like the old skool crotch rockets. Or getting a 34 mite help!


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Dont front brake over nasty stuff. Rear should be plenty. 

Sent from my LG-LS995 using Tapatalk


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## fmf979 (Feb 14, 2016)

New here but just got a white Fuse comp and rode it and wanted to report a great first ride.


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

Anyone know of a 28 tooth chain ring to fit the Expert crank? It is 76 BCD, the mounting holes are not evenly spaced. Found a SRAM, but have no idea if the bolt spacing is correct.
Thanks, MikeB


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Should be the same. 

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## cptCORNDOG813 (Mar 28, 2016)

*FASTBANANA *How tall are you?
Why go with the zero offset chainring / no oval?

Just got my pro in and I love it. Ill post some pics on here later. Only mods so far are ergon grips and tubeless and ordered thomson to replace IRcc - thing drops on its own all the time and weights a pound. I too noticed that my bike (Medium) came with a 100mm reba instead of the advertised 120mm. Might call spec about it but I like it. Feel low on the front so I'm gonna throw some riser bars on it - don't know what rise yet.

What are you guys doing for fork mounts with the boost? Cant find a fork mount to work in back of truck.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

cptCORNDOG813 said:


> *FASTBANANA *How tall are you?
> Why go with the zero offset chainring / no oval?
> 
> Just got my pro in and I love it. Ill post some pics on here later. Only mods so far are ergon grips and tubeless and ordered thomson to replace IRcc - thing drops on its own all the time and weights a pound. I too noticed that my bike (Medium) came with a 100mm reba instead of the advertised 120mm. Might call spec about it but I like it. Feel low on the front so I'm gonna throw some riser bars on it - don't know what rise yet.
> ...


They feel big for a medium,but perfect for my 5'11 height. Even 120mm fork felt to low,the best improvement for me was a 150mm fork.


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## beneastgate (Mar 21, 2016)

cptCORNDOG813 said:


> *FASTBANANA *How tall are you?
> Why go with the zero offset chainring / no oval?
> 
> Just got my pro in and I love it. Ill post some pics on here later. Only mods so far are ergon grips and tubeless and ordered thomson to replace IRcc - thing drops on its own all the time and weights a pound. I too noticed that my bike (Medium) came with a 100mm reba instead of the advertised 120mm. Might call spec about it but I like it. Feel low on the front so I'm gonna throw some riser bars on it - don't know what rise yet.
> ...


For the fork mount (mine is on a roof rack), I bought a 20x110 mount, and then a 15x110 adapter that sits inside the mount. Fits perfectly and never had any issues. Found them both on eBay, hope that helps!


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## beneastgate (Mar 21, 2016)

Has anyone swapped out the front axle on the pro (rockshox reba) from the maxle stealth that it comes with to the maxle lite which has the qr. 

Bike travels on fork mount roof racks so the quick release would make life a lot easier, but is there a particular reason that it didn't come with a qr axle in the first place?


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## cptCORNDOG813 (Mar 28, 2016)

beneastgate said:


> Has anyone swapped out the front axle on the pro (rockshox reba) from the maxle stealth that it comes with to the maxle lite which has the qr.
> 
> Bike travels on fork mount roof racks so the quick release would make life a lot easier, but is there a particular reason that it didn't come with a qr axle in the first place?


Hey just curious what travel is your fork? I've also been wanting to put a QR maxle but haven't found any that are boost compatible. All I see is 15x100mm.

Also regarding my fork mount dilemma - KUAT has a dirtbag fork mount for 15x110mm axles on their website that I ordered.


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## beneastgate (Mar 21, 2016)

cptCORNDOG813 said:


> Hey just curious what travel is your fork? I've also been wanting to put a QR maxle but haven't found any that are boost compatible. All I see is 15x100mm.


Just the standard 120mm travel. I found a maxle lite boost on chain reaction..just don't really want to commit to it without hearing some feedback first


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## whitfield96 (Mar 18, 2011)

Repair Suggestions / UPGRADES ???

Bottom Bracket : BEARING NOISE

Rear Rim Replacment: Bent (Latteral and Radial) / SPOKE TENSION IS FUBAR



Bottom Bracket bearings started talking to me today while on a casual 10 mile XC ride with my wife. By the time I returned to the car the drive side bearing is groaning even under no load. Never even a wet ride yet. 50 days / 160 miles into my new Fuse 6fattie Expert _(40+yr / 200lbs / east coast XC rider)_. Love the fast smooth playful nature ~ feels lighter than it really is.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Looks like a good excuse to get a better, and lighter, set of wheels! 

What tire pressure were you running when you dented the rim? Trail conditions?


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

whitfield96 said:


> Repair Suggestions / UPGRADES ???
> 
> Bottom Bracket : BEARING NOISE
> 
> ...


My BB started clicking today. I have 80 miles on my bike. The rear hub is also on its way out. I'm having a set of DT swiss laced up to hope pro 4 hubs. I think the real upgrade there will be the engagement. As for the BB I'm doing a race face turbine cinch crank, so I'll probably just do their BB with it, hopefully that quiets it down.

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## whitfield96 (Mar 18, 2011)

*What is a Samox ???*

Product News
Taiwan's Latest
New Products Gallery
Page 11 http://www.biketaiwan.com/resource/article/2/28/article-14.pdf

SAMOX 
The Samox FatBike crankset is available
with External BB(OD:24mm CR-MO
Spindle) and BB30/PF30 BB(OD:30mm
7075 CNC Alloy spindle).
Featuring double and triple chainring
combination options. Double chainring:
40/28T, 38/26T, 38/24T, 36/22T, 32/22T.
Triple chainring: 42/32/24T, 44/32/22T,
42/32/22T.
The chainring utilizes high-strength
alloy material that is stiffer and more
durable.
BB Shell is 100mm.
Samox also offers customized designs

Ugggh ~ Is it best for reliability to just replace the entire assembly (Cranks + Bottom bracket)? Wheels MFG bottom bracket would prob fix today's problem and eliminate the dreaded PF-30 cup walk.

*Anyone have crank dimensions / specs to shop for a replacement?*


FastBanana said:


> X01 Crankset, 156Q, zero offset absolute black 32


 Looks like I will need a few more numbers to choose correctly.
Are my shell width choices only 68/72? 
Spindle width?


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## whitfield96 (Mar 18, 2011)

Tire Psi = 17 
Terrain = East coat woods riding (Rocks / Roots /Occasional curb ~ Doooh!)
Had burping issues first 2 weeks. Rear is sealed up good now that tire and rim are well coated in Orange Seal. 15 PSI and things get squirrely / mushy.

Rear Hub Bearing:
Adjusters tend to walk around at will (check them frequently) ~ they will self-tighten or loosen as you remove and reinstall the wheel. Also had rear axle loosen on a 40 mile XC ride.

Manitou Fork:
Getting better ~ did notice a damp lower leg at rebound adjuster a few weeks back. Seems to have cured it's self.

Wheel Rim upgrade: 
Light bicycle or Roval Traverse 38 SL Fattie 650b 148. If the rear hub were more robust I might lace up a Light Bicycle 45mm id rim. _ My control SL's on the camber have been just about bullet proof. Hate the initial cost but the Control SL's have taken way more abuse then I expected (Money well spent when traveling / racing)_

Reading

Reading

Reading

Found:


darkhorse13 said:


> It really depends on your budget. I like the Roval Carbon Traverse SL38's direct from Spesh @ msrp $1500.
> 
> LB rims I have heard are great. Remember that the 50mm is not internal width... inner width is 45mm, *same as the stock WTB i45 that would come on that bike*.
> 
> Any rim with an inner width of 35-45mm should fit the bill, it's up to you what you like.


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## whitfield96 (Mar 18, 2011)

Dealer check up ~ R&R bottom bracket - added grease to original bearings. Rideable for now but still suspect. No resolution on wheel rim decision yet.



**** >>> Update: I trued my own rear wheel and so far so good. I'm only expecting to buy time but I was able to even out spoke tension and bring lateral runout down to less than a 1/16". I did not try to work the rim dent ~ maybe next time the tire comes off the rim. Until then I'll ride it as is.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

whitfield96 said:


> Dealer check up ~ R&R bottom bracket - added grease to original bearings. Rideable for now but still suspect. No resolution on wheel rim decision yet.


Ditch the BB before it ruins a ride like it did for me. I just purchased a set of 52mm wide Xiaman carbon rims on ebay for 130.00 per rim shipped. My friend has been running similar rims with very good results. He is a known masher with a history of destroyed rims,but with successful season on them is good enough for me.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

On my Specialized Fatboy, which also has PF30, I just changed the bearings and left the crank alone. A lot cheaper then new crank and bottom bracket.

I put in Enduro Ceramic bearings. About a 15-20 minute do it yourself job.


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## trailnimal (Mar 1, 2004)

prj71 said:


> On my Specialized Fatboy, which also has PF30, I just changed the bearings and left the crank alone. A lot cheaper then new crank and bottom bracket.
> 
> I put in Enduro Ceramic bearings. About a 15-20 minute do it yourself job.


how do those ceraminc types hold up to the rock strikes the low bb of the fuse is apt to hit


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Bearings are inside the bottom bracket not outside. So rock strikes aren't an issue

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## nikj (Jul 7, 2008)

Put my 9 year old on a Fuse in small and he had a blast on his first real 5 mile singletrack ride
He had the biggest grin ever 
Coming off a 24" framed fatbike


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## Winky (Jan 12, 2004)

Whitfield (and anyone else with BB problems) I highly suggest a wheels manufacturing PF30 Threaded BB!

You can use your existing cranks with the new BB and since it threads together the bearings will be properly aligned and there will be less chance of creaking (which doesn't sound like you've had). It's really hard to get the bearings in a standard press fit BB aligned perfectly so the bearings wear quickly. The wheels manufacturing BB aligns the bearing properly so they will last much longer. I have one of the angular contact BB's in my tool box waiting to be installed (my BB bearings aren't dead yet, just a little gritty so I'm waiting for them to die). Plus, the Wheels MFG stuff is made in the USA with enduro bearings!

I really wish the industry would go back to standard threaded bottom brackets!! They are so much more reliable and easier to work on but it's cheaper for bike companies to make press fit BB frames:madman:

Happy Trails!
Winky


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

Winky said:


> Whitfield (and anyone else with BB problems) I highly suggest a wheels manufacturing PF30 Threaded BB!
> 
> You can use your existing cranks with the new BB and since it threads together the bearings will be properly aligned and there will be less chance of creaking (which doesn't sound like you've had). It's really hard to get the bearings in a standard press fit BB aligned perfectly so the bearings wear quickly. The wheels manufacturing BB aligns the bearing properly so they will last much longer. I have one of the angular contact BB's in my tool box waiting to be installed (my BB bearings aren't dead yet, just a little gritty so I'm waiting for them to die). Plus, the Wheels MFG stuff is made in the USA with enduro bearings!
> 
> ...


I just ordered these last week

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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Here my latest update. De Rocket Ron 2.8 Tire from Schwalbe. Fits perfect on the rim and is 979-739=243 gram lighter then the original tires. Went tubeless with this conversion.

Last month I updated my drivetrain to XTR and XT, also the brakes are updated to XTR. The bike weights 12,5kg now (27,5 pound). I'm very happy with the bike. When I have more budget maybe I will update the fork.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

zenegroen said:


> Here my latest update. De Rocket Ron 2.8 Tire from Schwalbe. Fits perfect on the rim and is 979-739=243 gram lighter then the original tires. Went tubeless with this conversion.
> 
> Last month I updated my drivetrain to XTR and XT, also the brakes are updated to XTR. The bike weights 12,5kg now (27,5 pound). I'm very happy with the bike. When I have more budget maybe I will update the fork.


Nice upgrades, but really the fork holds back its potential! I have a Factory Fox on mine,no more diving, eratic behavior and significantly stiffer. You will really feel the improvement on tech and steep fast trails.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

techfersure said:


> Nice upgrades, but really the fork holds back its potential! I have a Factory Fox on mine,no more diving, eratic behavior and significantly stiffer. You will really feel the improvement on tech and steep fast trails.


Ok nice to hear that. Do you have a link for me which fork you are driving?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

zenegroen said:


> Ok nice to hear that. Do you have a link for me which fork you are driving?


It's a 2016 Fox Factory 34 boost,bought as a new take off from a S-Works 6fattie set at 150mm and left it at that because works well as is. May try 140mm air assembly kit in future.There is a pic of my bike with fork mounted in this thread.


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## trailnimal (Mar 1, 2004)

You can save 0.8lbs by going to Fox from the Magnum. I'm sure it would be more plush and tuneable and better handling...but I question the assertion that the magnum is not stiff as it is also 34mm and quite stout.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

Off hand for reference, does anyone know how much steering tube is left uncut on XL expert models?


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Fuse Pro owners...how is the Reba 27.5+ fork working out? I have the Fuse Comp and looking for a lower cost (than Pike/Yari/Fox 34) fork upgrade.

Thanks


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

rushman3 said:


> Fuse Pro owners...how is the Reba 27.5+ fork working out? ...


Very happy with the one on my Fuse Pro. I weight 160 lb. and can set it up plush enough to give 100-110mm travel, but firm enough for control. Seems plenty stiff so do not need a heavier 34mm model. Smooth operating, well damped, easy to set up and to adjust CTD on the fly. I think Specialized made a good call - seems well matched to the bike. I can't see any reason to change it unless you'd like a little more travel and want to raise the bottom bracket a bit.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

The Fox is way too expensive for me. Maybe a Reba in the future.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

zenegroen said:


> The Fox is way too expensive for me. Maybe a Reba in the future.


I paid 400.00 shipped for a new take off Fox Factory 34 on Pinkbike,also check ebay,seen several go for 500-600 range. If your patient you will be rewarded.


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## bmjnyc (Mar 13, 2016)

Psyched! just picked up my Fuse Expert...first MTB I've had since my Fat Chance years ago...defintly strange riding on such fat tires...looking forward to my first trail rides..wondering what rack folks are using...I'm looking at the Yakima Frontloader or the Thule....however my LBS mentioned that I may be able to get a 15mm axle adapter and use my Yakima Forklift...that would be a great money saving option...any input would be appreciated...


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

I think this is what you need
http://www.amazon.com/Yakima-8002099-Parent-T-Axle-Fork-Adapter/dp/B011O2QJ3Y

Jill


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## bmjnyc (Mar 13, 2016)

thanks, looks that will work!


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

The Fuse comes with a 110mm Boost fork, what you need:

Hurricane Components
Trilogy (15mm x 110mm) 

I use this with my Fuse and have used their products for years.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

Yep, forgot about that 110 thing. Go with the Hurrican Components Trilogy


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## bmjnyc (Mar 13, 2016)

so this will work on my Yakima Forklift? when standing my bike on my rack I noticed that the back tire is a bit fat for the rack...I was told I could get I can get a longer strap, will that work?? THanks!


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

bmjnyc said:


> so this will work on my Yakima Forklift? when standing my bike on my rack I noticed that the back tire is a bit fat for the rack...I was told I could get I can get a longer strap, will that work?? THanks!


A longer strap will absolutely work. When I use my roof rack, I've used toe clip straps (either nylon or leather) to strap my rear wheel to my rack with fat bike tires, which measure >4". Most of the holding power is in the fork mount anyway.


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## MTB9488 (Jun 18, 2012)

I recently purchased the specialized fuse comp, I really like this bike. while the SunTour fork is very capable, I would like it to be a little stiffer (larger stanchions) i'm currently considering upgrading to the rockshox Yari that has 35 stanchions vs the suntour with 32 stanchions. is this a good fork/compatible, what other options are available around $500?


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## nemesis256 (Aug 16, 2014)

I've had my Fuse Expert for just over a month now and loving it. But I've got a couple problems that I'm wondering if others have.

First, sometimes while pedaling, it sounds like the chain jumps or something. Either way there's this nasty click that sounds like it's coming from the chain ring. What's a little odd is that most times I'm not even pedaling hard or changing speed or gears or anything. Anyone else experience this?

Second, when pedaling backwards, I hear a bunch of sandy gritty noises, coming from the bottom bracket I think. Probably happens when pedaling forwards as well, but backwards (cleaning the chain) is when I notice it. I'm pretty sure the bike was doing this when brand new as well. I remember seeing someone having bottom bracket problems a couple pages ago, is this related?


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

nemesis256 said:


> I've had my Fuse for just over a month now and loving it. But I've got a couple problems that I'm wondering if others have.
> 
> First, sometimes while pedaling, it sounds like the chain jumps or something. Either way there's this nasty click that sounds like it's coming from the chain ring. What's a little odd is that most times I'm not even pedaling hard or changing speed or gears or anything. Anyone else experience this?
> 
> Second, when pedaling backwards, I hear a bunch of sandy gritty noises, coming from the bottom bracket I think. Probably happens when pedaling forwards as well, but backwards (cleaning the chain) is when I notice it. I'm pretty sure the bike was doing this when brand new as well. I remember seeing someone having bottom bracket problems a couple pages ago, is this related?


It was me having the bottom bracket issues and hub issues. I had a click from the bb and the hubs were noisy, sound gritty, but it was during coasting

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## nemesis256 (Aug 16, 2014)

Bmcconnaha said:


> It was me having the bottom bracket issues and hub issues. I had a click from the bb and the hubs were noisy, sound gritty, but it was during coasting
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


So am I going to have to replace the BB at some point as well? Don't think it's as bad as yours was, I wouldn't be able to hear it if it was while coasting, it's not loud enough.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

nemesis256 said:


> So am I going to have to replace the BB at some point as well? Don't think it's as bad as yours was, I wouldn't be able to hear it if it was while coasting, it's not loud enough.


Not sure. I'm not messing with mine, I'm putting a wheels mfg one in mine.

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## MTB9488 (Jun 18, 2012)

nemesis256 said:


> I've had my Fuse Expert for just over a month now and loving it. But I've got a couple problems that I'm wondering if others have.
> 
> First, sometimes while pedaling, it sounds like the chain jumps or something. Either way there's this nasty click that sounds like it's coming from the chain ring. What's a little odd is that most times I'm not even pedaling hard or changing speed or gears or anything. Anyone else experience this?
> 
> Second, when pedaling backwards, I hear a bunch of sandy gritty noises, coming from the bottom bracket I think. Probably happens when pedaling forwards as well, but backwards (cleaning the chain) is when I notice it. I'm pretty sure the bike was doing this when brand new as well. I remember seeing someone having bottom bracket problems a couple pages ago, is this related?


I had somewhat a similar situation, my chain had a grinding/gritty sound, it first started doing in the higher gears then it got worse, cleaned it a few times kept coming back. I've never been a fan of KMC chains, typically when I buy a bike and if it comes with a KMC I immediately switch it, but this time wanted to give the benefit of the doubt. I ended up switching the chain to SRAM, ridden a few hundred miles no problems.

I have also spoken on this form about bottom bracket issues&#8230; Welcome to PF30 (pressfit) issues. They are notorious for making weird noises, creaking especially and clicking. Every couple weeks I disassembled the bottom bracket, clean out the old grease and thoroughly re-grease. Seems to be working for me now but I definitely plan to upgrade the bottom bracket.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

PF30 Bottom Bracket on my Fatboy since January 2015. No creaks or other strange noises. I did wear out the bearings and replaced with new ones but thats it. 

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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

MTB9488 said:


> I had somewhat a similar situation, my chain had a grinding/gritty sound, it first started doing in the higher gears then it got worse, cleaned it a few times kept coming back. I've never been a fan of KMC chains, typically when I buy a bike and if it comes with a KMC I immediately switch it, but this time wanted to give the benefit of the doubt. I ended up switching the chain to SRAM, ridden a few hundred miles no problems.
> 
> I have also spoken on this form about bottom bracket issues&#8230; Welcome to PF30 (pressfit) issues. They are notorious for making weird noises, creaking especially and clicking. Every couple weeks I disassembled the bottom bracket, clean out the old grease and thoroughly re-grease. Seems to be working for me now but I definitely plan to upgrade the bottom bracket.


BB is low end quality ball bearings,seals suck and need constant attention,mine lasted about 100 miles then seized up and blew apart on a ride.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*BB bearing issues - model dependent?*

Might be helpful if those reporting Bottom Bracket issues include which Fuse model they're referring to.

The "Pro" model I had was spec'd with "SRAM PF30, OS press in bearings, sealed cartridge", and was trouble free. It spun smoothly and freely.

The "Expert" and "Comp" models are spec'd with a Samox BB. That could be a cost-cutting measure by Spesh that ends up costing the customer more in the end. If that's the case then the rants should be "Samox sucks".


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## baitdragger (Feb 6, 2007)

prj71 said:


> PF30 Bottom Bracket on my Fatboy since January 2015. No creaks or other strange noises. I did wear out the bearings and replaced with new ones but thats it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


For those of us who want to be proactive, would a chris kind or wheels mfg be our best bet? Tired of having LBS fix mine under warranty

Chris king I mean


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

baitdragger said:


> For those of us who want to be proactive, would a chris kind or wheels mfg be our best bet? Tired of having LBS fix mine under warranty


I just replaced bearings only. No need to replace the cups.

Enduro 6806 "Zero" Ceramic Sealed Bearing


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## baitdragger (Feb 6, 2007)

prj71 said:


> I just replaced bearings only. No need to replace the cups.
> 
> Enduro 6806 "Zero" Ceramic Sealed Bearing


Will that buy me a long term fix or just a few months?


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## hwcn (Jul 31, 2010)

Being on a quest for a new bike, I recently got to spend a afternoon test riding a Fuse Expert. I thought I was going to like the bike a lot more than I did. I'm 53 years old, moderate shape, and ride a C-dale Rize 3(full suspension) on Central PA singletrack. I just did not feel the plus tires on a hard tail was better than a full suspension 26er.

Some thoughts:

First off, tire pressure is key. The shop that lent out the bike had way too much pressure in the tires and while I reduced it significantly, I may have still been running them too high. Knobs on the tire are small and the traction is actually bad if the tires are overinflated. This may be part of my lukewarm impression of the bike. 

Gearing is not low enough for this old man. The Pro has a better range going to 42 as opposed to 40. Too many hills that hurt to climb that I could just grind out on my current low gear (22x34 on a 26" wheel).

Dropper posts are awesome. I'll never be without one after trying it.

The bike was a very lightly used demo and I was experiencing BB noise as described in previous posts.

Brakes were ridiculously good!

Handlebars are a bit wide. Had some difficulty getting between some trees on my normal rides.

I am 5'9" and I was on a Medium. The stem felt both too low and too short. 

The Lefty fork has me spoiled. The comparison would be apples to rocks. Granted I did not fiddle with setting it up, but the stiction difference itself was noticeable.

The Henge seat is wonderful.

For me the bike only felt materially slower going down hill on paved or good gravel roads. Off road the bike did not feel cumbersome or heavy. It however was not as easy to maintain a line as my current ride.

If you are a Hardtail person looking for an upgrade, I would absolutely consider the 27.5 plus platform and this bike, but in the Pro version. If you are a squishy person, I'm not sure if this will be your cup of tea.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

100% agree on the small knobs on the tires. I can't run the super low pressure with my trails that most would opt for. I have to run at least 20 or it feels way too squirmy, so I'm searching for a more aggressive set of tires. Possibly in 2.8 since I cant run any lower pressure. 

I dig the low front end though on the cockpit. I love the long TT, short stem, and I actually went to 800 bars. I am 5'7" on a medium. With that setup, 25% sag on the fork, 32-42t gearing, 20 psi, I was going just as fast on many local trails as I was on my Enduro. The rougher trails, I couldn't pin quite as fast. By rougher, I mean double black diamond level gnar that's really only available in Colorado/Utah style riding.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

baitdragger said:


> Will that buy me a long term fix or just a few months?


No clue. Change your bearings and give it a try. Just grease the crap out of everything when you put it back together.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

levity said:


> If that's the case then the rants should be "Samox sucks".


Spesh sucks for continuing to put crappy bearings on their bikes that people pay thousands of dollars on.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

tfinator said:


> Spesh sucks for continuing to put crappy bearings on their bikes that people pay thousands of dollars on.


I have to agree. My fuse turned into a 3500 bike because of cheap components

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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

hwcn said:


> Brakes were ridiculously good!


If you thought a SRAM DB3 brake was ridiculously good, try giving a Shimano XT brakes a try. Night and day difference. I just purchased a new bike with SRAM DB5's and while they are not bad, they are not as good as an XT brake. After only a week with the DB5's, I've ordered a set of XT M-8000 brakes as an upgrade.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

I'm having the same problems as other members here. My bb was making an awfull sound and I have the crank deinstalled. All rusted and no grease at all. Also my rear hub ik grinding and making an awfull sound. I have put some grease in it but it doesn't help. 

I really hate this, you buy a 1700,00 euro bike and after 350km I have this troubles.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

zenegroen said:


> I'm having the same problems as other members here. My bb was making an awfull sound and I have the crank deinstalled. All rusted and no grease at all. Also my rear hub ik grinding and making an awfull sound. I have put some grease in it but it doesn't help.
> 
> I really hate this, you buy a 1700,00 euro bike and after 350km I have this troubles.


Specialized failed miserably allowing such pis poor components. A confidence killer for sure with there quality control.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

techfersure said:


> Specialized failed miserably allowing such pis poor components. A confidence killer for sure with there quality control.


They did it with their fat bikes, too. Lots of the same problems.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

That's a real bummer that the Specialized bikes are having these problems. Is it all related to the press fit bottom brackets?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

My PF30 on my Specialized Fatboy has been noise free. I just rode it so much that I wore out one of the bearings. Spent $90 and some of my time changing them out. But that was after a year of use. 

Also Specialized is really good at warranting their products within the first year. Have any of you brought your bike back to the dealer?

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## baitdragger (Feb 6, 2007)

prj71 said:


> My PF30 on my Specialized Fatboy has been noise free. I just rode it so much that I wore out one of the bearings. Spent $90 and some of my time changing them out. But that was after a year of use.
> 
> Also Specialized is really good at warranting their products within the first year. Have any of you brought your bike back to the dealer?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


My bike has been back to the dealer 3 times, same crap, we will adjust and grease

I bought from a LBS so I wouldn't have to deal with crap, but specialized is not stepping up at all...I guess I will try and escalate

My old BMC went 8 years with no noise, my fuse didn't make it 8 rides....for $2100 they sure cut corners


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

I brought the bike to my LBS this morning, with no crank and cassette installed. This save time for them and I don't mind. The bb bearings are stuck, you can't turn them with your hands. The rear hub isn't that good to. Hope this is guarantee.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

baitdragger said:


> My bike has been back to the dealer 3 times, same crap, we will adjust and grease
> 
> I bought from a LBS so I wouldn't have to deal with crap, but specialized is not stepping up at all...I guess I will try and escalate
> 
> My old BMC went 8 years with no noise, my fuse didn't make it 8 rides....for $2100 they sure cut corners


No excuss to spec bottom of the barrow components on bikes in this price range.I replaced BB,HS and rear hub on my own did not want to just have a band aid repair and multible shop visits. Fuse is mint now such a great frame so sad bad part can jade it. Going Trek on Plus fully in future they do a much beter component package overall.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Gonna part out my large Fuse Comp. Gonna try 6 Fattie B on a carbon EPO.

Lemme know if anyone desires the frame or wheels. Or basically everything except for the fork.


scottay1 AT gmail.com


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

scottay said:


> Gonna part out my large Fuse Comp. Gonna try 6 Fattie B on a carbon EPO.
> 
> Lemme know if anyone desires the frame or wheels.
> 
> scottay1 AT gmail.com


Stock wheels?


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

yep, scrapers and stout hubs. I adjusted the rear bearing tension after a couple of rides, never had a problem since. I tighten the crank every now and then when the BB clicks, fixes it every time, no other problems. Guess I got lucky and got a good bike....
.
.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Today picked up my fuse. The put in a new SRAM PF30 bottom bracket (SRAM PressFit 30 Alloy Bottom Bracket | Chain Reaction Cycles). Hope this one takes longer, but when I read reviews of this bb i don't trust that a lot, but we will try! The rear hub isn't ready yet, they ordered a new one from SRAM, which type I don't now.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

Fixed the right way. Much better. Hope pro hubs, dt swiss wheels, race face BB and cranks. Plus a wolf tooth oval chainring

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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Bmc

Have you had a chance to ride the Maxxis Chronicles yet? How do they compare to the Specialized GC or Purgatory's that came stock.

I have the Fuse HT also and need new tires.

Thanks


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

prj71 said:


> My PF30 on my Specialized Fatboy has been noise free. I just rode it so much that I wore out one of the bearings. Spent $90 and some of my time changing them out. But that was after a year of use.
> 
> Also Specialized is really good at warranting their products within the first year. Have any of you brought your bike back to the dealer?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I'm going to eat my words somewhat here. My PF30 or BB30 as Cannondale calls it on my Bad Habit 2 just started to creak real loud last night. I plan to pull it apart tonight and grease it up and hopefully that fixes it.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

rushman3 said:


> Bmc
> 
> Have you had a chance to ride the Maxxis Chronicles yet? How do they compare to the Specialized GC or Purgatory's that came stock.
> 
> ...


Yes, they roll much faster IMO. They are not a mud tire by any means. Work very well in mixed terrain. I had an issue on my only ride on them. I broke a chain on a brand new 1x11 setup I'll know more Sunday on how they work

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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

prj71 said:


> I'm going to eat my words somewhat here. My PF30 or BB30 as Cannondale calls it on my Bad Habit 2 just started to creak real loud last night. I plan to pull it apart tonight and grease it up and hopefully that fixes it.


No, BB30 and PF30 are not the same thing, FWIW.


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## nemesis256 (Aug 16, 2014)

nemesis256 said:


> First, sometimes while pedaling, it sounds like the chain jumps or something. Either way there's this nasty click that sounds like it's coming from the chain ring. What's a little odd is that most times I'm not even pedaling hard or changing speed or gears or anything. Anyone else experience this?


Update...I experienced this today while I was on an easy fire road, so I was spinning quick and didn't have to focus on anything else. What's interesting is that before the clicking noise happened, the cranks felt like they got very slightly harder to turn for a second or two, as if there was some extra friction. Maybe it's related to the bottom bracket problems?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Le Duke said:


> No, BB30 and PF30 are not the same thing, FWIW.


Yeah I know. One has bearings pressed into the bottom bracket. The other has bearings pressed into a cup thats pressed into the bottom bracket. Both are known for creaking problems though.

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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Bmcconnaha said:


> View attachment 1070075
> View attachment 1070076
> 
> 
> ...


Nice Santa Cruz!


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

zenegroen said:


> Nice Santa Cruz!


Thank you.

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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

Less the fifty miles on my fuse comp bb is making grinding sound. Also had to take bike back to shop last week cause the back tire had a bad wobble they said the hub was loose. Met someone while riding this weekend who said he was having the same problems but that his dropper post won't go back up after only a few rides.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Yesterday I hearded my rear hub will be replaced for a Hope Boost version. I'm very happy with that!


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## baitdragger (Feb 6, 2007)

zenegroen said:


> Yesterday I hearded my rear hub will be replaced for a Hope Boost version. I'm very happy with that!


Are you doing that on your own dime or is specialized?


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

baitdragger said:


> Are you doing that on your own dime or is specialized?


Not my own dime, I think Specialized in combination with my LBS.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

zenegroen said:


> Not my own dime, I think Specialized in combination with my LBS.


Must be nice, I paid for that upgrade on my bike. Haha

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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

It is! Only a nice fork and my bike is done!


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## nemesis256 (Aug 16, 2014)

So today I took a look around my Fuse to see if there were any problems. I get to the rear wheel and it has a lot of side to side wobble in it. Turns out the allen screw for the through axle was crazy loose! Took more than 1 revolution to tighten it. On the other side is just a hole, and I can see some grease inside. Is that how it's supposed to be? What's going on? The wheel still has some wobble but not as much.


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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

nemesis256 said:


> So today I took a look around my Fuse to see if there were any problems. I get to the rear wheel and it has a lot of side to side wobble in it. Turns out the allen screw for the through axle was crazy loose! Took more than 1 revolution to tighten it. On the other side is just a hole, and I can see some grease inside. Is that how it's supposed to be? What's going on? The wheel still has some wobble but not as much.


I had the same problem I tightened it but it would still wobble side to side. Took it to the lbs and they said they had to tighten the hub. No more wobble so far.

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## Nissan80 (May 20, 2016)

Just picked up a new Fuse Comp as a winter bike on sale at my local shop. Went tubeless as soon as I got it home and after reading through this forum took it to bits and did the following. 

Dismantled rear hub and repacked with waterproof wheelbearing grease. The original stuff was like water!
Remove cranks and pack bottom bracket bearings with grease.
Remove fork and pack headset bearings. Nothing in there from factory!

The brakes felt a bit soft so I removed the wheels and pumped the pistons out a bit then reset the caliper with a pad spacer. Much better feel now. I think the pistons were a little sticky.
After a few good rides I have set my pressures at 15f and 17 rear. No burping issues and so far so good.

All in all pretty happy with it. Hoping with some preventative maintenance now it will all run smoother for me in the long run.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Today I ordered my Rockshox Reba RL 27,5+/29 120mm for my Fuse. This to replace the awfull Suntour thats in in now. This was my last upgrade, my bike is ready!


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## MTB9488 (Jun 18, 2012)

I love my Specialized Comp Fuse, probably the best bike I’ve ever owned, and have owned many. I’ve always noticed the shifting (stock X5 shifter, X7 rear derailleur) was a little stiff going up the rear cassette to an easier gear, in comparison to my Specialized Fatboy with GX components. Again not that it doesn’t shift, is just a little stiffer than other bikes I have tried (friends bikes and my current fat boy). You really start noticing it after long rides in your thumb hurts. So knowing that my specialized fat boy shift super smooth and easy, I swapped all the components from my Fatboy to the Fuse, along with a new shifter cable… Still the same. So I figured it’s got a be the cable housing so I installed a new cable housing along with the new shifter cable… Again still the same. So last thing, I bypassed the current cable routing and zip tied to the top tube and down the top chains day. Problem solved! Wow, what a difference the cable routing makes. I understand why specialized did internal cable routing it looks cleaner but they compromised performance.


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## MTB9488 (Jun 18, 2012)

zenegroen said:


> Today I ordered my Rockshox Reba RL 27,5+/29 120mm for my Fuse. This to replace the awfull Suntour thats in in now. This was my last upgrade, my bike is ready!


I agree the SunTour fork is horrible. I recently upgraded to the Rockshox yari. it's a slight step down from the Reba but I wanted the 35 mm stanchions, I weigh 200 pounds and the 32mm stanchions with 120mm way too much flex for my weight.


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## baitdragger (Feb 6, 2007)

Just a PSA, I pulled my headset apart tonight as it creaked as much as my BB did before it was pulled apart.

There was more rust than grease in the assembly, I bought my bike in march, has 90 miles on it. Stays in the garage. Had the bearings had any grease other than the minimum maybe the creaking would not be there nor the rust. Taking the headset to the LBS tomorrow, I want bearings under warranty as a minimum. I'll Phil wood the whole thing putting it back together. The compression rings are rusty too, cleaned them up, we will see if they need to be replaced as well.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

MTB9488 said:


> I agree the SunTour fork is horrible. I recently upgraded to the Rockshox yari. it's a slight step down from the Reba but I wanted the 35 mm stanchions, I weigh 200 pounds and the 32mm stanchions with 120mm way too much flex for my weight.


After a day doubting about it I also changed my Reba order for a Yari fork. I'm a heavy person to and have more faith in the 120mm Yari.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

zenegroen said:


> After a day doubting about it I also changed my Reba order for a Yari fork. I'm a heavy person to and have more faith in the 120mm Yari.


I think that's a good call. The Fuse is a play bike, not a racer. You might as well have a stout fork on it, weight penalty be damned.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Thanks once rided I will give a short review here!


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Who knows which headset bearings are for the Fuse? Yesterday I wanted to prepare my bike for the new Yari but I say the bearings and it was horrible. The are all rusted and the lower one is stuck, you can't turn it with your bare hands.


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## baitdragger (Feb 6, 2007)

IS style...1 1/8 to 1.5 tapered.

FSA has 45 degree bearings so you need to buy fsa replacements or just buy a whole new headset

Cane creek 40 or 110 seems to be the only solutions I have found


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Thank you! Another question. Does anyone know if the Rockshox Yari has a standard PM for 180MM rotor? Of 160MM? In that case I have to order an adapter.


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## baitdragger (Feb 6, 2007)

Dunno, mine has the manitou 

If specialized just greased their BB and headset with decent grease, they would have much less complaints on a fun bike. My LBS thought I had 2 BB go bad in 2 days, then they realized a bike a day was coming in without grease and someone else was their the day before....why cut costs on grease?


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Bought the Cane Creek 40 bearings. The diameters are right but the thickness is different. The Cane Creek bearings are thiner. See the picture. I'm at my work now so I can't check it. Would this give problems?


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## baitdragger (Feb 6, 2007)

I've spoken to cane creek and they have said their bearings can't just drop in to a FSA headset....they may be just selling me, but they said fsa bearings are 45x45 angle which is correct on mine....theirs are 45x36 and need their "washer" to work properly 

I'll check the email from them, it was just yesterday....they don't have much info on the fuse fatties


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

baitdragger said:


> I've spoken to cane creek and they have said their bearings can't just drop in to a FSA headset....they may be just selling me, but they said fsa bearings are 45x45 angle which is correct on mine....theirs are 45x36 and need their "washer" to work properly
> 
> I'll check the email from them, it was just yesterday....they don't have much info on the fuse fatties


Hey. I don't understand your reply I'm sorry. What do you mean exactly?


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## baitdragger (Feb 6, 2007)

I assumed you have the FSA headset correct that specialized specd. Or do you currently have a cane creek headset?


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

FSA yes, but you lay the bearings in the frame.


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## baitdragger (Feb 6, 2007)

Correct, however and I am not an expert to rebutt, cane creek has said that "using their bearings with a different manufacturers top cover and crown race will not work due to different bearing contact angles between FSA and cane creek"

Again it could be just sales talk to buy a whole headset, I just put my old rusty bearings back in with more grease and will worry about it after the holiday


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Ah now I understand you I'm sorry. I'll test it this evening and let you know.


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## baitdragger (Feb 6, 2007)

No worries, I was just emailing cane creek yesterday figuring this all out.....Shame there are so many headset standards....just like hubs and BB's


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## MTB9488 (Jun 18, 2012)

zenegroen said:


> Thank you! Another question. Does anyone know if the Rockshox Yari has a standard PM for 180MM rotor? Of 160MM? In that case I have to order an adapter.


Yes you will need an adapter for the 180 rotor on the fuse. Good choice in getting the Yari over the other fork that had 32 Stantions. World of a difference when riding through rock gardens. My personal opinion all forks over 100mm travel should be a minimum of 34 stanchions.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

HAha just found out you do need an adapter :-( so I ordered one. 

New question: I noticed that the front hub has no support on the hubs as in the Suntour. It leans on the axle. Has something to do with the Torque caps compatibility? Is this normal?

Second question, I noticed the first cm's of travel go very easy, easier then the rest is that normal?

Ps. The bearings Cane Creek 40 doesn't fit.


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## Nissan80 (May 20, 2016)

baitdragger said:


> Dunno, mine has the manitou
> 
> If specialized just greased their BB and headset with decent grease, they would have much less complaints on a fun bike. My LBS thought I had 2 BB go bad in 2 days, then they realized a bike a day was coming in without grease and someone else was their the day before....why cut costs on grease?


I agree! You should not have to pull a bike to bits as soon as you get it to check if its been greased.

Took mine on some wet, rocky and rooty trails today and think I found its niche. So much traction and speed but I managed to put a decent dent in my rear rim. Im amazed by how well this bike rides for a budget specced model.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Damn I love the Yari!!!!!!


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

zenegroen said:


> Damn I love the Yari!!!!!!
> 
> View attachment 1072911


Nice! A heavy Pike is a damn fine fork.

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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

phride said:


> Nice! A heavy Pike is a damn fine fork.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


My next upgrade.... I'm already into the bike 3500, why not add insult to the injury.

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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Look nice Yari! What's tha tag on that fork? Not fond of the suntour. Hate fox even more. Rockshox yes!!


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## Nissan80 (May 20, 2016)

Does anyone notice a lot of chain slap on their fuse frames? Not sure if my derailleur clutch is faulty or if it is just due to how close the chain is to the chainstay.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Nissan80 said:


> Does anyone notice a lot of chain slap on their fuse frames? Not sure if my derailleur clutch is faulty or if it is just due to how close the chain is to the chainstay.


Not noticable on mine,I'm using a 32t Oval ring.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Yep, noticed right away. I wrapped extra tape all over. I think its a combination of weak der., wider stays, and maybe a coupla extra links in the chain.

I also installed a chain guide that basically looks like a front der..
.



Nissan80 said:


> Does anyone notice a lot of chain slap on their fuse frames? Not sure if my derailleur clutch is faulty or if it is just due to how close the chain is to the chainstay.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

Anyone have an idea what the fork is cut to on an XL frame? 

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## shiopz (Jul 1, 2014)

Here's mine.

Have no issues with the creaky bb since i changed mine right before i took it out of the shop because i had to transfer my old 1x drivetrain from my old Trek hardtail running on 32t crank and 11-42 cogs.

1st issue i encountered was just a week after buying it and the shitty fork went rigid after the 1st trail ride. So i brought it back to the shop and they serviced the fork and it seems to have tamed down since then, but the next time this raidon shits out on me again -- im pulling the trigger on a yari!

So here it is,i joined a fun race this sunday together with my fatty friend, so stoked on plowing thru the rockbeds, berms and all the technicals of the race course and mud crossings. For preventive maintenance since the hubs and bb got submerged in muddy water crossing..took it to the shop for regreasing! So many possibilities with this bike...good job Spec!


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Dirt Road said:


> Look nice Yari! What's tha tag on that fork? Not fond of the suntour. Hate fox even more. Rockshox yes!!


I'm sorry I'm dutch, what do you mean with tag on that fork?


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Something round 21/22cm on mine. Than you have about 3 rings under the stem.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Jep! I have an old innertube wrapped around it. You can see it on this picture:


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## shiopz (Jul 1, 2014)

You took out the dropper post? Was it problematic or its just not your thing?...whats the travel on the yari?


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Yes I sold the dropper, my weight is 110KG and it looked like I would demolish it. The yari is 120mm.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

I took my Fuse out and did an Enduro a couple weekends ago. It handled it really well. The hardest part was not having enough top end.

Post race carnage includes: slashed rear sidewall (OEM tires), pinched tube, creaks all over the place. I haven't bothered to tear it down and give it any lovin.

Oh, and the rear axle needed to be tightened after every stage...


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Nice pics!


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

MTB9488 said:


> I agree the SunTour fork is horrible. I recently upgraded to the Rockshox yari. it's a slight step down from the Reba but I wanted the 35 mm stanchions, I weigh 200 pounds and the 32mm stanchions with 120mm way too much flex for my weight.


Why is it a step down from the Reba? It's a bit heavier, but from everything I can tell, the Yari is slotted between the Reba and the Pike. I think the 35mm is worth it for me as I'm >200 lbs. My Raidon has developed a rebound knock and it's not a very reassuring feeling. Looking to upgrade sooner than later.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

zenegroen said:


> Damn I love the Yari!!!!!!
> 
> View attachment 1072911


How do you like the Yari? I'm considering going the Yari route, but I may go with a 140mm. It should bump the head tube angle to around 66.5 degrees.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

zenegroen said:


> HAha just found out you do need an adapter :-( so I ordered one.
> 
> New question: I noticed that the front hub has no support on the hubs as in the Suntour. It leans on the axle. Has something to do with the Torque caps compatibility? Is this normal?
> 
> ...


What head set bearings and crown race did you end up going with?


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## shiopz (Jul 1, 2014)

When i was looking at the raidon fork closely it dawned on me that this is not 120mm as suggested on the spec website, took a measuring tape and there you go, its 6 inches so thats about 150mm.









So i talked to my local specialized shop and raised this question and this is the explanation i got.

"The 120mm being referred to is the maximum travel that you can use"

Now my next question will be, if i want the same travel and head angle that is with the stock set up.

For the RS Yari, is it the same with the raidon...150 exposed travel but can only max 120 on their 120mm forks, or do i have to get the 150 or 140 if at most?


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## Nissan80 (May 20, 2016)

You need to look at axle to crown measurement. 
Looks like a 120mm yari is the same as the raidon. ~541mm. That said most manufacturers will let you go +10% with fork travel so a 130mm yari should work if you want a slightly slacker HA and slightly higher BB height.


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## shiopz (Jul 1, 2014)

gotya, thanks Nissan80


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Unit91MS said:


> What head set bearings and crown race did you end up going with?


Nothing else yet :-(


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Unit91MS said:


> How do you like the Yari? I'm considering going the Yari route, but I may go with a 140mm. It should bump the head tube angle to around 66.5 degrees.


I'm very happy with the fork, it also damps the very little things, and roots? You don't even feel them. In Holland the 120mm is more than enough. 140mm can be better for the heavier terrain but I think the geometry will change.

Drops become much easier with the Yari, it gives you confedence.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

zenegroen said:


> Nothing else yet :-(


I contacted Cane Creek, and they said the following. I'm popping my stock bearing back out to measure the OD.

" It sounds like you need a IS42/28.6 Top and IS52/40 Bottom. However you may want to verify that the top bearing has an OD of 41.8 (42) and not the other 1 1/8 size of 41mm."



zenegroen said:


> I'm very happy with the fork, it also damps the very little things, and roots? You don't even feel them. In Holland the 120mm is more than enough. 140mm can be better for the heavier terrain but I think the geometry will change.
> 
> Drops become much easier with the Yari, it gives you confedence.


Good to hear. The geo will definitely change, but according to some CAD sketches, the head tube angle should move to around 66.7° which is aggressive but manageable I think.


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## nemesis256 (Aug 16, 2014)

stupid question regarding the creaking BB problem. When the chain is off my bike, the BB is dead quiet. Only when the chain is on, pedaling backwards or forwards, do I hear the creaking/gritty noise in the bottom bracket. Is it really the BB making the noise? Or is it the chain?


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Its probably putting a side load on the bearings...or maybe its your hub!
.
My wheels for sale here i45 Scrapers 650b PLUS fattie wheelset Boost spacing. - Buy and Sell Mountain Bikes and Accessories


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Unit91MS said:


> I contacted Cane Creek, and they said the following. I'm popping my stock bearing back out to measure the OD.
> 
> " It sounds like you need a IS42/28.6 Top and IS52/40 Bottom. However you may want to verify that the top bearing has an OD of 41.8 (42) and not the other 1 1/8 size of 41mm."
> 
> Good to hear. The geo will definitely change, but according to some CAD sketches, the head tube angle should move to around 66.7° which is aggressive but manageable I think.


Been running a 150mm Fox 34 with great success even bought a 140mm air cartridge thinking may be a better fit but the 150 so suits this frame why mess with a good thing.Fuse is way under damped on front for aggressive riding and restricts it's full potential with a 120mm.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Doe anyone know what the diameter of the seatpostclamp is? The website says 31.8mm but my new Hope clamp doesn't fit!


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## fmf979 (Feb 14, 2016)

techfersure said:


> Been running a 150mm Fox 34 with great success even bought a 140mm air cartridge thinking may be a better fit but the 150 so suits this frame why mess with a good thing.Fuse is way under damped on front for aggressive riding and restricts it's full potential with a 120mm.


Can you tell me what size frame you put the 150mm travel on? By under damped do you mean to low or not enough travel?


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

zenegroen said:


> Nothing else yet :-(


From the suggestion of Cane Creek, I ordered a 40 series IS headset to go with the Yari I ordered. I'll let you know if I run into any problems!


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## baitdragger (Feb 6, 2007)

Unit91MS said:


> From the suggestion of Cane Creek, I ordered a 40 series IS headset to go with the Yari I ordered. I'll let you know if I run into any problems!


Do you miND letting me know how it goes? I am going to do the same if you have no issues.

A part number would be awesome as they have so many options. Thanks


----------



## Fleas (Jan 19, 2006)

Maybe my search skilz are waning, but has anyone fit a Vee Trax Fatty 27.5x3.25 on either end of this bike?

Thanks,
-F


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

baitdragger said:


> Do you miND letting me know how it goes? I am going to do the same if you have no issues.
> 
> A part number would be awesome as they have so many options. Thanks


Sure thing. I'll post once parts have arrived.


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## shiopz (Jul 1, 2014)

Got word from specialized themselves that the max fork travel you can do with this bike without voiding the warranty is 130mm


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## baitdragger (Feb 6, 2007)

shiopz said:


> Got word from specialized themselves that the max fork travel you can do with this bike without voiding the warranty is 130mm


I know you are just passing it along
I'll worry about their warranty guidelines once they ship bikes with a BB better than in my 4 year olds bike, put more than 2 cents worth of grease and labor into their headset and supply hubs better than a cheap kids wagon

They are really selling some crap....if their frame fails due to a 140mm fork and they bail on warranty, I would never buy anything from them again


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## carthief (Aug 11, 2014)

nemesis256 said:


> stupid question regarding the creaking BB problem. When the chain is off my bike, the BB is dead quiet. Only when the chain is on, pedaling backwards or forwards, do I hear the creaking/gritty noise in the bottom bracket. Is it really the BB making the noise? Or is it the chain?


I noticed the same thing as I was cleaning the bike yesterday, have you figured it out?


----------



## nemesis256 (Aug 16, 2014)

carthief said:


> I noticed the same thing as I was cleaning the bike yesterday, have you figured it out?


No, I haven't. Someone did reply to me after I asked this saying it may only creak when under load. Don't know if it's true.

Getting closer to replacing mine I think, the snap/crack that happens once in a while while riding is getting louder.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

nemesis256 said:


> No, I haven't. Someone did reply to me after I asked this saying it may only creak when under load. Don't know if it's true.
> 
> Getting closer to replacing mine I think, the snap/crack that happens once in a while while riding is getting louder.


Most likley while under load,do yourself a favor and just replace it. It will fail and would suck to have that happen on trail like what happened to me!


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## carthief (Aug 11, 2014)

I'm thinking mine is the chain grinding over the crankset, will definitely get to the bottom of it


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## carthief (Aug 11, 2014)

So 400+ replies into this thread, what seems to be the favorite replacement?


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

carthief said:


> So 400+ replies into this thread, what seems to be the favorite replacement?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hubs

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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

What's a good replacement hub that's not a fortune? Three times now my rear hub has come lose and it really getting annoying. Also whenever I hit a root or rock or anything my front end make a loud rattling noise. Can't tell where it's coming from yet. Have maybe 10 rides on this thing.


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

mic360 said:


> What's a good replacement hub that's not a fortune? Three times now my rear hub has come lose and it really getting annoying. Also whenever I hit a root or rock or anything my front end make a loud rattling noise. Can't tell where it's coming from yet. Have maybe 10 rides on this thing.


I have the hope pro 4 and absolutely love them!

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## carthief (Aug 11, 2014)

We're talking wheelset hubs? I was under the impression the bottom bracket was a common replacement 


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

carthief said:


> We're talking wheelset hubs? I was under the impression the bottom bracket was a common replacement
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've done both. Race face BB and hope pro 4 hubs. Both my oem ones failed

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## carthief (Aug 11, 2014)

I was prepared for the BB, was hoping the wheelset that came with the Pro would be better than average,
I appreciate the help btw
I'm still very happy with the bike but I like my toys to work 


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## Bmcconnaha (Feb 16, 2016)

carthief said:


> I was prepared for the BB, was hoping the wheelset that came with the Pro would be better than average,
> I appreciate the help btw
> I'm still very happy with the bike but I like my toys to work
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mine were noisy, and I wanted the bling anyways

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## Fleas (Jan 19, 2006)

Fleas said:


> Maybe my search skilz are waning, but has anyone fit a Vee Trax Fatty 27.5x3.25 on either end of this bike?
> 
> Thanks,
> -F


Bueller?
Bueller?

-F


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Fleas said:


> Bueller?
> Bueller?
> 
> -F


Currently have the Duro Crux 3.25 on front and did have on back also with enough clearance to feel comfortable.


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## Fleas (Jan 19, 2006)

techfersure said:


> Currently have the Duro Crux 3.25 on front and did have on back also with enough clearance to feel comfortable.


Thanks!
Now you got me looking at Crux, Miner, VTF, and FBN. Some cool options!

-F


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Fleas said:


> Thanks!
> Now you got me looking at Crux, Miner, VTF, and FBN. Some cool options!
> 
> -F


I have 4 of the 26x4 and 2 of the 27.5x3.5 Fat B Nimble. They're cheap, fast, light, and paper-thin throughout. For me, they have not proven durable at all, and I wouldn't get them again, especially after the multiple-mile hike I had to do in the dark after I got a puncture in the tread that wouldn't seal.


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## fmf979 (Feb 14, 2016)

Has anyone had any problems with the transx dropper post on the comp? Just curious if there is any maintenace with it? The reason I ask is a friend has a rockshox post that failed because he didnt know it needed air added.
Do these transx posts need air?


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

My Yari and Cane Creek 40 arrived today. Can't wait to assemble tomorrow.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Unit91MS said:


> My Yari and Cane Creek 40 arrived today. Can't wait to assemble tomorrow.


cane creek 40 is a perfect fit. Haven't done a trail ride yet, but the Yari feels excellent.


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## fmf979 (Feb 14, 2016)

Unit91MS said:


> cane creek 40 is a perfect fit. Haven't done a trail ride yet, but the Yari feels excellent.


I just did this exact setup and I had to change the front rotor from 180 to 160 because it hit the caliper on the trp slate t4. It seems the mount posts are shorter on the Yari vs the Raidon. You didnt have this problem? I guess I will have to see if trp can sell me some spacers to get the 180 back on? Any sugestions from anybody?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

fmf979 said:


> I just did this exact setup and I had to change the front rotor from 180 to 160 because it hit the caliper on the trp slate t4. It seems the mount posts are shorter on the Yari vs the Raidon. You didnt have this problem? I guess I will have to see if trp can sell me some spacers to get the 180 back on? Any sugestions from anybody?


Just need a brake adapter for 180mm rotor,any bike shop should have them,or online.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

fmf979 said:


> I just did this exact setup and I had to change the front rotor from 180 to 160 because it hit the caliper on the trp slate t4. It seems the mount posts are shorter on the Yari vs the Raidon. You didnt have this problem? I guess I will have to see if trp can sell me some spacers to get the 180 back on? Any sugestions from anybody?


Yeah. Shimano 180mm post mount to post mount adapter is all you need. I have 180 front and rear on my fuse now.

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## fmf979 (Feb 14, 2016)

Thanks guys I will stop at a shop tomorrow. I will report on the yari performance Saturday hopefully... If not definitely Sunday.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Has anyone tried servicing their freehub or hub bearings yet? My rear hub is starting to make pretty awful sounds.


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## Nissan80 (May 20, 2016)

*Schwalbe 3.0*

How do schwalbe nobby nic 3.0 s fit in the fuse? Is there enough clearance?


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Nissan80 said:


> How do schwalbe nobby nic 3.0 s fit in the fuse? Is there enough clearance?


I don't know why they wouldn't. The ground control 3.0 are pretty big.

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## Nissan80 (May 20, 2016)

Just cautious about ordering them. I know their tyres are generally pretty high volume compared to other brands.


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## etacata (Mar 3, 2010)

somebody has have to tried putting 3.0 nn in the fatties. what's the clearance like?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

I had 3.25 Duro Crux mounted on rear and it is a big tire,had enough clearence to feel comfortable with as long as wheel is true if that helps.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Schwalbe NN and RR 27.5x3.0 tires fit fine in the Fuse and Stumpy 6Fatties. They're the same width as the Ground Control and Purgatory 3.0 tires, plenty of clearance.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Unit91MS said:


> Has anyone tried servicing their freehub or hub bearings yet? My rear hub is starting to make pretty awful sounds.


I put some new grease in it but they stay awfull. Get my new Hope hub end of this week.


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## Johnb35711 (Jun 21, 2016)

I bought a Fuse Comp a week ago and it's been great. One issue I keep having though (and this is a big hangup) is the rear axle keeps coming loose. It takes 2-3 hours and it happens to me almost every ride. Has anyone found a solution to this? Huge PITA


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Johnb35711 said:


> I bought a Fuse Comp a week ago and it's been great. One issue I keep having though (and this is a big hangup) is the rear axle keeps coming loose. It takes 2-3 hours and it happens to me almost every ride. Has anyone found a solution to this? Huge PITA


Thankfully this isn't any of the issues I've had yet. Are you greasing the axle and anti seizing the threads?

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## nemesis256 (Aug 16, 2014)

Johnb35711 said:


> I bought a Fuse Comp a week ago and it's been great. One issue I keep having though (and this is a big hangup) is the rear axle keeps coming loose. It takes 2-3 hours and it happens to me almost every ride. Has anyone found a solution to this? Huge PITA


This happened to me too. Bring it to your LBS, they should contact Specialized and they'll send a new axle. While I waited for mine, the LBS fixed it/tightened it and it didn't get loose after that.


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## Johnb35711 (Jun 21, 2016)

I have not used anti-seize or grease, but if required it must come this way from the factory? 

So you think it may be a defective axle? I'll bring it to the LBS this week. Sorry for the lack of quotes, couldn't delete this post after creating it.


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## whitfield96 (Mar 18, 2011)

*Tubeless Ground Control side wall issues*

Decided to try some dish soap and water to find my leaks. They are everywhere. (4-months and 400-ish miles.



Video of the leaks. . .


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Johnb35711 said:


> I have not used anti-seize or grease, but if required it must come this way from the factory?
> 
> So you think it may be a defective axle? I'll bring it to the LBS this week. Sorry for the lack of quotes, couldn't delete this post after creating it.


Mine came this way. It shouldn't really cause your issues, I was primarily curious as to whether it was present or not. Too much of either could potentially give you some headaches, but unlikely in this case. Take it to your dealer and see if they can do anything for you!

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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

whitfield96 said:


> Decided to try some dish soap and water to find my leaks. They are everywhere. (4-months and 400-ish miles.
> 
> 
> 
> Video of the leaks. . .


Wow. What sealant are you using?

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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

whitfield96 said:


> Decided to try some dish soap and water to find my leaks. They are everywhere. (4-months and 400-ish miles.
> 
> 
> 
> Video of the leaks. . .


My tires are starting to show what I guess is the threads out of the sidewall in that same pattern. Merlin Cycles has Nobby Nics for $47 each. Ordered a set this morning.



Johnb35711 said:


> I bought a Fuse Comp a week ago and it's been great. One issue I keep having though (and this is a big hangup) is the rear axle keeps coming loose. It takes 2-3 hours and it happens to me almost every ride. Has anyone found a solution to this? Huge PITA


My axle doesn't stay tight at all. It's really annoying...


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

oKayH said:


> My tires are starting to show what I guess is the threads out of the sidewall in that same pattern. Merlin Cycles has Nobby Nics for $47 each. Ordered a set this morning.
> 
> My axle doesn't stay tight at all. It's really annoying...


I found my rear axle loose after about ride #3. Tightened it and rechecked a few times and it has been fine since. If it keeps coming loose, I wonder if the threads in the frame or on the axle might be damaged. I would put a lot of blue loketite on, that should take care of it unless something is really messed up.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Shake the wheel, do you hear Stans sloshing around? If not, time to add more Stans!
.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

scottay said:


> Shake the wheel, do you hear Stans sloshing around? If not, time to add more Stans!
> .


I find that my rear goes through stans much quicker than the front.

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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Maybe try adding some glitter to the mix.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

scottay said:


> Maybe try adding some glitter to the mix.


I'll have to give that a try. It'll be a mess when it burps though!

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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Unit91MS said:


> I'll have to give that a try. It'll be a mess when it burps though!
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


Just think of it as your own personal rip Taylor show


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## jlbanta (Apr 5, 2011)

Does anyone know how much the stock Specialized Stout crank weights? I need to buy a new chainring...but might use the opportunity to upgrade the cranks. They seem heavy...with a Cr-Mo spindle and cast arms.

Rough estimate, but IF you swapped the stock crank (850g????) with a Race Face Aeffect (638g), you would save a ton of weight. Nearly .47 pounds. Has anybody measured weights and swapped cranks yet?

Pic of my build thus far. Cant wait to get this thing on the trail!!








Build specs:
Fork: 140mm Fox 34 650b+
Frame: Fuse Comp
Drivetrain: Fuse Comp Stock
Brakes: Shimano XT
Seatpost: Fox Transfer
Wheels: Ibis 738 35mm
Tires: Schwalbe Rocket Rons 3.0/2.8 Snakeskin


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

jlbanta said:


> Does anyone know how much the stock Specialized Stout crank weights? I need to buy a new chainring...but might use the opportunity to upgrade the cranks. They seem heavy...with a Cr-Mo spindle and cast arms.
> 
> Rough estimate, but IF you swapped the stock crank (850g????) with a Race Face Aeffect (638g), you would save a ton of weight. Nearly .47 pounds. Has anybody measured weights and swapped cranks yet?
> 
> ...


Is the spindle 24mm or 30 mm on the crank? I thought it'd be obvious but browsing bottom brackets I'm not so sure now.

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## jlbanta (Apr 5, 2011)

Per the specialized website it is "PF30", so 30mm spindle
Specialized Stout XC, forged alloy, 148-specific chain line, PF30, Cr-Mo spindle, 30T, 76mm BCD spider

Not worried about the 3mm offset to match the "boost" setup. That was discussed earlier in this thread and doesn't seem to be an issue.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

jlbanta said:


> Per the specialized website it is "PF30", so 30mm spindle
> Specialized Stout XC, forged alloy, 148-specific chain line, PF30, Cr-Mo spindle, 30T, 76mm BCD spider
> 
> Not worried about the 3mm offset to match the "boost" setup. That was discussed earlier in this thread and doesn't seem to be an issue.


Yeah. When I was looking at bottom brackets, there seems to be many "pf30" listed that are for 24mm and other spindle sizes

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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

Unit91MS said:


> I find that my rear goes through stans much quicker than the front.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


Orange sealant is a lot better in my experience.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

I have XT cranks at my LBS, waiting on a new BB and the adapters for making the 24mm spindle work on PF30. I believe Praxis makes a BB for 24mm cranks.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

oKayH said:


> I have XT cranks at my LBS, waiting on a new BB and the adapters for making the 24mm spindle work on PF30. I believe Praxis makes a BB for 24mm cranks.


As does wheels manufacturing I believe

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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

Everytime my front wheel is off the ground for any reason when it touches back Down I get a crazy cling clang noise coming from the front t end. I can't pin point it to the fork, hub, disk, brake pads. It's just there and loud. Anyone else have this happen? Guess another trip to the shop is In order, this getting old quick. Also my rear hub keeps loosening and causing the bike to shift by itself I ha e tightened the dam thing after every three rides. If both of my hubs are bad I'm going to be pissed I shouldn't have to upgrade parts on a 1600 dollar bike this soon. I've had Walmart bikes with parts that last longer.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

mic360 said:


> Everytime my front wheel is off the ground for any reason when it touches back Down I get a crazy cling clang noise coming from the front t end. I can't pin point it to the fork, hub, disk, brake pads. It's just there and loud. Anyone else have this happen? Guess another trip to the shop is In order, this getting old quick. Also my rear hub keeps loosening and causing the bike to shift by itself I ha e tightened the dam thing after every three rides. If both of my hubs are bad I'm going to be pissed I shouldn't have to upgrade parts on a 1600 dollar bike this soon. I've had Walmart bikes with parts that last longer.


Replace the Raidon fork and rear hub,both failed failed on me while riding,actually for the price you can only expect marginal components.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

techfersure said:


> Replace the Raidon fork and rear hub,both failed failed on me while riding,actually for the price you can only expect marginal components.


I agree that at the price you can only expect marginal components, but you shouldn't have to deal with components that break.

Getting a hub with few engagements, some internal friction, maybe a little play, is one thing. Getting one that explodes in the first 150 miles is another.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

tfinator said:


> I agree that at the price you can only expect marginal components, but you shouldn't have to deal with components that break.
> 
> Getting a hub with few engagements, some internal friction, maybe a little play, is one thing. Getting one that explodes in the first 150 miles is another.


I do agree,I was fourtunate to by one used,and still am below retail with a Fox 34 and Hope Pro 4 hub plus other upgrades.My intention was to upgrade anyways,but happened sooner then expected. The frame is definitely worth it Specialized nailed it on that.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Anyone looking for a wheelset, WTB Scrapers,rear Hope Pro 4, front stock Stout hub?


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## Nissan80 (May 20, 2016)

Id take them but im in Australia!


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

techfersure said:


> Anyone looking for a wheelset, WTB Scrapers,rear Hope Pro 4, front stock Stout hub?


What did you upgrade to?


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

techfersure said:


> Anyone looking for a wheelset, WTB Scrapers,rear Hope Pro 4, front stock Stout hub?


Yes actually! What color hope 4?

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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

I9 rear,Sram XO front with 52mm wide carbon rims.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Unit91MS said:


> Yes actually! What color hope 4?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


Black,just recently built,bought hub new,rear rim has a small dent on side wall but works tubeless fine other then that some light scuffing an scratches,true and no flatspots.Looking at offers.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

techfersure said:


> Black.


Ooo. PM me some details like price and condition! I've been pricing out a very similar build. Really only need the rear but wouldn't mind having another hoop.

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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Unit91MS said:


> Ooo. PM me some details like price and condition! I've been pricing out a very similar build. Really only need the rear but wouldn't mind having another hoop.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


PM me an email for pics.


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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

For the people who went tubeless how much sealant did you use in each tire? just trying to figure out how much I need to buy for the initial setup.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

mic360 said:


> For the people who went tubeless how much sealant did you use in each tire? just trying to figure out how much I need to buy for the initial setup.


I used 120 ml, which is around 4oz I believe

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## whitfield96 (Mar 18, 2011)

I used 8 oz of orange seal when I got the bike new back in February after my first ride and burp flat. I then got just a tad over 3 months. I believe some of this was due to my rear rim issue / leak (poor bead seal) re-inflate every ride. I did rework / straighten the rim last month but to no avail on sealing it up any better. . . Needs more bubble gum.

With all of that action the Fuse brings to the party, for a brief moment I thought I was on a carbon hardtail. The curb reminded me otherwise. :madman:


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

I use 100ml for my tires. Last week I got my new Hope Pro 4 hub under warranty from my LBS/Specialized.


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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

zenegroen said:


> I use 100ml for my tires. Last week I got my new Hope Pro 4 hub under warranty from my LBS/Specialized.


They replaced your rear or front hub with a hope under warranty? I think both of mine are in the **** going to take it into the shop this week.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Rear hub, front I haven't got problems (yet)


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

zenegroen said:


> I use 100ml for my tires. Last week I got my new Hope Pro 4 hub under warranty from my LBS/Specialized.


How did you manage that? Is it no cost to you or paying the difference?

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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Nothing at all. I'm customer for years now but I don't know if SPECI payed it or my LBS. But I think Specialized.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Rear hub was also replaced for free by Specialized on my 2014 Specialized Fatboy. Hope Pro Fatsno. Great customer service on their part.


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## fmf979 (Feb 14, 2016)

I like my Yari fork but have a question. In the lockout position do you other guys using the yari get some movement? My other forks don't move at all in lockout my yari do quite a bit. Is that normal?


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

fmf979 said:


> I like my Yari fork but have a question. In the lockout position do you other guys using the yari get some movement? My other forks don't move at all in lockout my yari do quite a bit. Is that normal?


I have very stiff compression, but it definitely moves more than some other forks I've had. It hasn't really bothered me though.

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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

zenegroen said:


> Nothing at all. I'm customer for years now but I don't know if SPECI payed it or my LBS. But I think Specialized.


I just had mine "serviced". They cleaned the free hub and regreased. Sounds marginally better but I assume not for long.

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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

I just took my fuse comp 6fattie for a test spin after changing some parts from how I bought it this afternoon. Went from 30.6 pounds to 29.1 pounds and also added a bell and bottlecage. I've had the parts waiting for my "plus" bike build... I just took the buy a complete and remove to sell the stuff I don't want to use instead of sourcing a frame/fork and building wheels with the rims and tires I already had route. The Vee Trax Fatty 3.25s sure do self-steer a lot less than the Bulldozer 4.7s on my fat bike. Has anybody weighed the Raidon fork the comp comes with (I couldn't be bothered to unbolt the front brake and drop the fork out to weigh it when I was changing the stem and handlebar).


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

DeeEight said:


> I just took my fuse comp 6fattie for a test spin after changing some parts from how I bought it this afternoon. Went from 30.6 pounds to 29.1 pounds and also added a bell and bottlecage. I've had the parts waiting for my "plus" bike build... I just took the buy a complete and remove to sell the stuff I don't want to use instead of sourcing a frame/fork and building wheels with the rims and tires I already had route. The Vee Trax Fatty 3.25s sure do self-steer a lot less than the Bulldozer 4.7s on my fat bike. Has anybody weighed the Raidon fork the comp comes with (I couldn't be bothered to unbolt the front brake and drop the fork out to weigh it when I was changing the stem and handlebar).


I did weigh it but don't remember the number. I have a photo of the scale weight. It was definitely lighter than the yari, closer in weight to the Reba I believe

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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

Since this seems to be the all things Fuse thread I'll post the detailed weight notes I took here instead of the Fuse Comp specific thread. Started at 30.64 pounds overall stock parts except I got the grips changed to the contour XC lockers at the store because I'm used to them (I run a set on my Mukluk). I may end up going back to some corks or something lighter, not sure if I really need palm support with the suspension fork like I do with the carbon rigid forked fat bike. The stock tires measured to 75.8mm with my digital calipers which is close enough to 3.0 to not argue about (unlike the Maxxis 3.0s on the Devinci Hendrix I looked at which were really 2.8s).

Stock part weights were as follows...

- Ground Control 60TPI Foldable rear tire 950 grams + 283 gram tube
- Purgatory 60TPI Foldable front tire 1019 grams + 288 gram tube
- 180mm front rotor 147 grams
- 160mm rear rotor 107 grams
- Saddle 267 grams
- 60mm stem 123 grams
- Bar 310 grams
- Pedals 408 grams
- Sunrace cassette lockring 15 grams
- Useless plastic spoke guard 30 grams
- five steel bottle cage bolts 15 grams


New parts...

- Vee Rubber TraxFatty 3.25 120TPI Silica tires 949 and 933 grams (heavier went rear)
- 160 grams of continental tire sealant and 14g for no-tubes valves
- Rotaz brake rotors were 113 grams (180) and 82 grams (160)
- Velo Ti-rail Gel pad carbon saddle 242 grams (last nights test ride was not enjoyed, this will be changed to something my butt prefers)
- 90mm FSA SL-K stem 150 grams 
- RaceFace Next Carbon low-riser cut to 27.5 inches 169 grams 
- MEC Clipless pedals 312 grams
- RECON alloy cassette lockrng 4 grams
- 5 alloy bottlecage bolts 5 grams
- Cateye composite bottle cage 36 grams
- bell 25 grams

The Vee tires, inflated to 20.1 pounds each (the sidewalls say 20PSI maximum) sealed up perfectly and evenly popped into place on the WTB Scraper i45 rims. One pop noise in back, two in front. ZERO sidewall/bead leaks. After being inflated for about 14 hours they've stretched out to 79.4mm width for a claimed 83mm width tire. Also I do NOT like SRAM drivetrain parts, especially not their Type 2 derailleurs so I will likely go to a thumbshifter and shimano derailleur once I modify one up to work with the 40T cog. Less weight and more reliable (and I run thumbies on all my mountain bikes). Eventually the Sunrace cassette will go to something aftermarket that's a lot lighter, and the Specialized cranks and Samox PF30 BB will go to something better/lighter which I can actually use a raceface bashguard with. I'll only bother with the fork if I find a good deal on a Reba or Manitou, or something else lighter unless the stock damping really doesn't work out for my riding style. I like the Q-lock axle design a lot more than Maxles, Fox QRs or Manitou's Hex lock. 

Oh do the higher model Fuse's come with a QR rear axle? Or has anyone found a aftermarket replacement QR rear axle that fits into the tapered dropout end of the Fuse frame ? I know the 5mm bolt one is lighter but its not particularly convenient for quickly getting the bike into the car (and I've read quite a few people have had problems with it loosening on its own).


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

I have a lot of problems with a creaky seatpost! I get crazy of it. Already bought another clamp from Hope but it doesn't solve anything. What can ik do?


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## cacatous (Dec 1, 2013)

zenegroen said:


> I have a lot of problems with a creaky seatpost! I get crazy of it. Already bought another clamp from Hope but it doesn't solve anything. What can ik do?


Have you tried some carbon grease? If that fails, buy a new bike.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

zenegroen said:


> I have a lot of problems with a creaky seatpost! I get crazy of it. Already bought another clamp from Hope but it doesn't solve anything. What can ik do?


First I heard of that problem, mine has been mint.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

techfersure said:


> First I heard of that problem, mine has been mint.


Mine is terrible. I didn't try Carbon Crease.


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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

So I brought my bike to the shop the 28th of last month talked to them on the 1st. They told me they were talking to specialized about having my fork replaced and they were going to do something about my rear hub but he wasnt sure what and that I could pick my bike up that day and hold on to it till he finds out. He said that since it was a holiday weekend he would give me a call sometime this week. He didn't, so I called them and they said they had to find out what specialized was going to do and then call me back. He didn't. Has anyone dealt with specialized on warranty issues? Is this my shop or is this specialzed? I don't want to turn into the ******* I can be but they are ****ing up my riding time.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Unit91MS said:


> I did weigh it but don't remember the number. I have a photo of the scale weight. It was definitely lighter than the yari, closer in weight to the Reba I believe
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


Weights of the Yari and Raidon. Raidon has the crown race on it still...


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## Rad Man (Jul 11, 2016)

fmf979 said:


> I just did this exact setup and I had to change the front rotor from 180 to 160 because it hit the caliper on the trp slate t4. It seems the mount posts are shorter on the Yari vs the Raidon. You didnt have this problem? I guess I will have to see if trp can sell me some spacers to get the 180 back on? Any sugestions from anybody?


I just upgraded to a Reba and yes you need an adapter - others may work but TRP sells the one you need, it comes with bolts too. Part number is TRP A-11 20mm Adapter.

I accidentally ordered an extra if you want it, just PM me.


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## Tristan520 (Jul 11, 2016)

*2017 Specialized Fuse Expert with stock Reba*

2017 Specialized Fuse Expert with stock Reba


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## nmeofun (Jul 20, 2012)

*Got my Fuse Comp yesterday!*

Just got my Fuse yesterday. I'm 5'11 and got a large. Don't know my exact inseam, but it's about 32/33. Medium was a little tight, large felt just right. Went tubeless before I got it dirty. Took it for a first ride this morning and really liked it for what it is. I got the Comp, so lower end components. All worked decently enough. Got home and quickly put on XT brakes and XT shifter/derailer since I had them laying around from other builds. I also put on a 27" bar w/ a slight rise that I laying around - just to see. The stock bar is pretty wide at just over 29" (I don't have the metric conversion in front of me). No issues w/ the stock bars, but when I get a new bike I stand in front of my parts locker and just start pulling stuff out!

I initially wanted the red, but the graphite and orange really grew on me as I looked at the in the shop.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

nmeofun said:


> Just got my Fuze yesterday. I'm 5'11 and got a large. Don't know my exact inseam, but it's about 32/33. Medium was a little tight, large felt just right. Went tubeless before I got it dirty. Took it for a first ride this morning and really liked it for what it is. I got the Comp, so lower end components. All worked decently enough. Got home and quickly put on XT brakes and XT shifter/derailer since I had them laying around from other builds. I also put on a 27" bar w/ a slight rise that I laying around - just to see. The stock bar is pretty wide at just over 29" (I don't have the metric conversion in front of me). No issues w/ the stock bars, but when I get a new bike I stand in front of my parts locker and just start pulling stuff out!
> 
> I initially wanted the red, but the graphite and orange really grew on me as I looked at the in the shop.
> 
> View attachment 1082442


I'm same height with 33" inseam on a medium,70mm stem.I usually ride large frames but the Fuse is on longer side on TT and I will go smaller if don't feel cramped,really like the shorter wheelbase for all the technical I take this on.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

New tires, wheelset, bearings, and cranks. Time to go Strava segment hunting.

I will say, the stock tires suck for trail riding compared to the NN. The front Spec tire always slide. This NN just hooks up on everything 

Just need a new fork. I've found that the Damper on the Manitou doesn't like aggressive riding. Perfectly fine if you are t hammering it in such a way that it needs to take quick, repeated hits, but this bike was built to let you get rowdy


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

Can't wait to see the Carbon Fuse 6Fattie! Expert and S-Works


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

I went with the large even though I'm 6'6 since I'm old school and not afraid of longer stems. Also the TT on it is longer than the XL toptube of a Salsa Dos Niner.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

BluesDawg said:


> Can't wait to see the Carbon Fuse 6Fattie! Expert and S-Works
> 
> View attachment 1082548
> View attachment 1082549


SWAT and Ohlins? Please tell me that's not real....

That would make for the perfect back country shred bike for me. Carry everything I need without a camelbak and still able to get rowdy.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Will be selling my Fuse rear wheel with Hope Pro 4 hup Scrapper rim,built couple of months ago with few miles on it set up tubeless. Light scratches and scuffs on rim. PM me with email or text for pics.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

So had my LBS check on that S-works Fuse. It is going to become available early September according to the dealer website. However, price is insane. Over $6k for a complete bike at MSRP! Ultimately, it is still a hardtail, so that price seems a bit exorbitant, even by bike industry standards, IMO. A frame only option wasn't listed.

Guess I'll upgrade the fork and dropper and call it a day...


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

oKayH said:


> So had my LBS check on that S-works Fuse. It is going to become available early September according to the dealer website. However, price is insane. Over $6k for a complete bike at MSRP! Ultimately, it is still a hardtail, so that price seems a bit exorbitant, even by bike industry standards, IMO. A frame only option wasn't listed.
> 
> Guess I'll upgrade the fork and dropper and call it a day...


Fuse frame is damn great as is,all though carbon is very nice, on a Plus size with very forgiving tires not a must have IMO. I did put a Fox Factory 150mm fork on mine,but very happy with Tranzx dropper,works as good as my Lev and Transition droppers and has been completely reliable.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

techfersure said:


> Fuse frame is damn great as is,all though carbon is very nice, on a Plus size with very forgiving tires not a must have IMO. I did put a Fox Factory 150mm fork on mine,but very happy with Tranzx dropper,works as good as my Lev and Transition droppers and has been completely reliable.


I like riding the Fuse more than my SB66C now for all but park and big mountain, so I wanted to ball out a bit, but not that much.

The Tranzx has been reliable as hell compared to others I've used like Reverbs and KS, but getting that last 25-30mm of drop is always a PITA. The current Spec branded post are really good, so I'm looking at those after I grab a better fork vs the Manitou.


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## davemk (Jan 20, 2009)

oKayH said:


> So had my LBS check on that S-works Fuse. It is going to become available early September according to the dealer website. However, price is insane. Over $6k for a complete bike at MSRP! Ultimately, it is still a hardtail, so that price seems a bit exorbitant, even by bike industry standards, IMO. A frame only option wasn't listed.
> 
> Guess I'll upgrade the fork and dropper and call it a day...


Umm....What were you expecting? The S-Works builds are always crazy expensive, for example, the 2017 Fat Boy is $7,500 and that doesn't include a suspension fork or a dropper post. Upgrading the fork and wheels on your current ride will get you 90% of the performance gains for a fraction of the price.


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## coastermtb (Feb 20, 2012)

Picked up a Pro last week. First proper ride on Saturday = FUN. What really stood out for me coming from short travel 26er was how it kept momentum. Through a rocky/rooty twisty section. I really had to pedal hard to keep the 26er moving, on the Fuse didn't have to pedal at all. Came as a surprise, getting ready to pedal, but it just kept on going right through. Another spot at bottom of a fire road, after hopping over a rut into another rocky section - the Fuse accelerated instead of bogging down. Takes a bit more to get moving but makes up for it once it's up to speed.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Still sporting the suntour on mine, not a super agressive rider... I do see a rear wheel upgrade in the future tho. Good bike, seems a brick sh1thouse in the frame.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

*2017 Fuse 6fattie Comp*

Just got my 2017 Fuse Comp built. So far liking the setup, compliments my Fatboy well. I don't completely hate the Manitou Machete (yet) but I've only done a short ride in the neighborhood.


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## snowryder (May 20, 2007)

Does anyone know if the Manitou Machete 100mm fork on the small fuse can be modified back to its stock length of 120mm with spacers?

I noticed that Manitou Machete's are only 120 and 140. I'm wondering if Specialized installs a spacer to shorten the fork.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

oKayH said:


> So had my LBS check on that S-works Fuse. It is going to become available early September according to the dealer website. However, price is insane. Over $6k for a complete bike at MSRP! Ultimately, it is still a hardtail, so that price seems a bit exorbitant, even by bike industry standards, IMO. A frame only option wasn't listed.
> 
> Guess I'll upgrade the fork and dropper and call it a day...


You might find the $3500 Fuse Expert Carbon more palatable. Same frame with a more down to earth build.


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## nmeofun (Jul 20, 2012)

After a month with my Fuse Comp it has become my primary bike. After swapping the brakes and derailleur with Shimano XT bits, the bike has become my favorite! The only issue I have is the crank bolt on the Stout cranks keeps coming loose. The nice thing is the spacers make a nice ringing sound to remind me that it's loose again! I"ll put some locktite on it and that should solve the problem. The pinch-bolts stay tight, but don't keep the crank from loosening. Otherwise, I'll continue to read about fork upgrades, but I'm in no hurry to change out the stock Suntour as I haven't yet tired of it's lackluster performance! I did change the stock 30t front to a 28 since this bike has become my main ride and I do a lot of climbing.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

Removed the tubes, dry inflated the tires with no problems. Added 4oz Stans to the front and rear. Front is holding great after an 8mi ride at 16psi, did the rear afterwards and it leaked through the night. Aired up the rear to 18psi and went for a ride today, I'll check it again tomorrow. Anyone else go to tubeless on their 2017 Fuse? The 2017 has 38mm stout rims while the 2016 has 45mm wtb scrapers. Also, 2017 has a Purgatory front tire, Ground Control rear.


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## chrisyews (Jun 29, 2016)

Chianring issue. Bent my chain ring on some rocks. Back to the bike shop for a new one. Not in stock, the shop tries to find one and eventually call Specialized tech support who tell him that don't have them. WTF, it a MTB, things break. Anybody know what type of chain ring is compatible with the stout 1 x10 crankset. We tried a Sram XX1 and know that does not work, different size chain ring bolts and the dealer had none in stock. Really don't want to change the crank unless I have to. I'm retired and want to keep my purchases to need rather than wish I had.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Xx1 with spacers and long bolts?

Theres also a lot of cheap crank options. XX1 chainrings are pricey so a crank isnt too much more. Sram NX

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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

"Specialized Stout XC, forged alloy, 30mm Cr-Mo spindle, 76mm BCD spider"

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/index.php?category=5649

Options are limited, I'd personally get a cheap crankset that uses a more standard mount pattern. Replace the crappy stock BB while you are at it.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

thegoldrun said:


> Removed the tubes, dry inflated the tires with no problems. Added 4oz Stans to the front and rear. Front is holding great after an 8mi ride at 16psi, did the rear afterwards and it leaked through the night. Aired up the rear to 18psi and went for a ride today, I'll check it again tomorrow.


Went for a ride last night, today rear is holding 18psi just fine. Loving this bike!!


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## nmeofun (Jul 20, 2012)

chrisyews said:


> Anybody know what type of chain ring is compatible with the stout 1 x10 crankset. We tried a Sram XX1 and know that does not work, different size chain ring bolts and the dealer had none in stock.


I recently changed my front 30t chainring to the Sram XX1 X-sync 28t and had no issues. The X-sync has threaded holes that use the stock chainring bolts, but not the inserts. I used some blue loc-tite. I did the whole swap in about 15 minutes. The only downside is the ring cost $80. Have to make sure you get the 76 BCD size which my local shop had in stock.


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## aaron_reigler (Oct 15, 2010)

After owning the 2016 Fuse Expert for just over a month now, I can say that I'm hooked, sorta.

Things I've replaced so far:

Brakes - went to Shimano SLX 7000's w/ice tech rotors, I've never been a fan of the Sram/Avids and the SLX's have never failed me in the past
Bottom Bracket - went to a Wheels MFG Angular Contact pf30 unit, after installing these things in many team members bikes and noting the lifespan, it was a no brainer.
Rear Hub - went to a Sram 900 boost hub, the original just sucked, period. Crazy engagement with the new hub, plus I was able to use all of the original spokes.
I've also added a Power Expert saddle, Easton EC70 carbon bar, ESI grips, and have gone tubeless with off-brand sealant.

I've been able to push this bike to extremes that I didn't expect it to handle. I've owned a 2011 Camber 29er before this, along with a Surly Krampus, both of those bikes were set up to be XC machines, and were quite fast. The Fuse melts both of those together for me. I am a mechanic at an lbs and replaced the parts that I've noted other users have had issues with right from the start, and haven't had any issues since.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

aaron_reigler said:


> After owning the 2016 Fuse Expert for just over a month now, I can say that I'm hooked, sorta.
> 
> Things I've replaced so far:
> 
> ...


interesting to know about the spoke length with the SRAM hub!


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## aaron_reigler (Oct 15, 2010)

Unit91MS said:


> interesting to know about the spoke length with the SRAM hub!


As long as you pair the drive side/non drive side spokes to the new hub in the same manner, everything should work great. It shares quite similar dimensions to the stock Stout hub the bike comes with. Unsure about the front, however, as I didn't feel the need to replace it.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

aaron_reigler said:


> As long as you pair the drive side/non drive side spokes to the new hub in the same manner, everything should work great. It shares quite similar dimensions to the stock Stout hub the bike comes with. Unsure about the front, however, as I didn't feel the need to replace it.


I'm struggling with what I want to do for wheels this winter. Considered building up a set of carbon wheels, but my i45 are holding up well enough to reuse with a better hub in the back. They do seem to go out of true every couple rides though.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

aaron_reigler said:


> Bottom Bracket - went to a Wheels MFG Angular Contact pf30 unit, after installing these things in many team members bikes and noting the lifespan, it was a no brainer.


what's the part number of the wheels manufacturing bottom bracket you used? stock stout xc 30mm spindle cranks or did you swap those too? trying to put a set of race face turbine cinch on the bike with new bottom bracket, reviewing praxis and wheels. thanks.


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## aaron_reigler (Oct 15, 2010)

thegoldrun said:


> what's the part number of the wheels manufacturing bottom bracket you used? stock stout xc 30mm spindle cranks or did you swap those too? trying to put a set of race face turbine cinch on the bike with new bottom bracket, reviewing praxis and wheels. thanks.


Stuck with the stock Stout cranks, but Wheels Mfg actually makes a variation of bb's for Sram GXP, Shimano Hollowtech 2, etc.. Part number is SKU: PF30-BB-AC-RED.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

aaron_reigler said:


> Stuck with the stock Stout cranks, but Wheels Mfg actually makes a variation of bb's for Sram GXP, Shimano Hollowtech 2, etc.. Part number is SKU: PF30-BB-AC-RED.


Thanks. I was hoping to find one that threaded together but doesnt seem like Wheels makes one. Praxis does though SKU: 73-4101 M30 THRU


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

The wheels manu one has a great housing. Zero issues, but has cheapish bearing, but are replacable. Just dropped some ceramic bearings in mine. 

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## NEastUnlmtd (Aug 25, 2016)

My 16 Fuse Comp freehub is getting louder and more annoying every ride. I bought used so no luck warranty wise I imagine. At least it keeps me peddling.

I found the Forum and this thread searching for some info on the failure.
Had I not looked it up I wouldn't know about the hub track record. My LBS guy told me it was about how the previous owner maintained it AND in the process berated me for not riding as hard as him and daring to think my nongnarly weak ass could break ****. "He was 5ft in the air yesterday". Btw we never rode together. Funny it was fine when I asked him to go over it 200 miles prior, specifically trying to avert this kind of failure. 

There is no substitute for taking ownership with this stuff and keeping on top of problems before they pop up. I'm jumping in hard on diy upgrades/repairs.

Going to a 3.0 ranger up front tomorrow. Purgatory slit a side wall Sunday. 
Thanks for the parts posts!


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

just picked up a 2016 fuse comp 6 and i have to say, I REALLY like this bike. It's totally stock for now but I am sure upgrades will follow soon. the bike shop converted it to tubeless for me


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## ALScott (Sep 1, 2016)

I ordered a Fuse Comp and it should be in today. First foray into MTB in long, long time didn't love it the first time around. Couldn't leave the road. Getting this a supplement to that and you can't have too many bikes right? I don't plan to be serious with it but you never know this bike looks like a lot of fun and I am super excited to get it. I asked them to set it up tubeless and they said it would be $70. Does that sound right? Any suggestions on pedals. From road experience I immediately think of clipless but think I may go flat for a while. I hit the ground hard, a lot, first time trying mtbing.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

ALScott said:


> I ordered a Fuse Comp and it should be in today. First foray into MTB in long, long time didn't love it the first time around. Couldn't leave the road. Getting this a supplement to that and you can't have too many bikes right? I don't plan to be serious with it but you never know this bike looks like a lot of fun and I am super excited to get it. I asked them to set it up tubeless and they said it would be $70. Does that sound right? Any suggestions on pedals. From road experience I immediately think of clipless but think I may go flat for a while. I hit the ground hard, a lot, first time trying mtbing.


Awesome dude. Shops tend to over charge a bit for tubeless set up, but it's because based on the rim, tire, and whatever other unknown it could either take 20 minutes or 3 days.

I think it's good to understand the principle, though. That way if you're worried about flatting you don't feel like you're riding on black magic.

Maybe if you bring in a 6 pack of microbrew they'll let you watch!

Otherwise, you can spend the $30-40 on tape, valves, and sealant to give it a go. There are tons of videos and threads out there to explain the process.

Congratulations on your new ride!


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## ALScott (Sep 1, 2016)

Another question. My road bike is an endurance frame and I have it set up in a fairly upright position. Can I do the same with this bike? It felt like a fairly upright position to me but it was just a test ride. I just assumed any mtb would be more upright than my roadie.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

ALScott said:


> Another question. My road bike is an endurance frame and I have it set up in a fairly upright position. Can I do the same with this bike? It felt like a fairly upright position to me but it was just a test ride. I just assumed any mtb would be more upright than my roadie.


I think compared to any road bike it will feel more upright. If not, a shorter stem or some riser bars should do the trick.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## chrisyews (Jun 29, 2016)

The Fuse comes with tape and valves, I was surprised. If you do it yourself get a larger bottle of sealant rather than a couple of little ones, you will need to add some down the road most likely.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

i was lucky with mine because when i asked about the tubeless conversion when buying the bike they offered to do it at no charge. It took about 30 mins to complete the conversion.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

70 is high. Especially since it comes already taped. Mine took 3 minutes to do. 

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## bbunnys (Aug 28, 2016)

Has anyone noticed back hub on bike getting water in it. Have not had my bike long and gave it a clean 2 days ago. Just light spray with hose. 
Then this morning put bike on its end. (handle bars and front wheel in the air) and a lot of water seemed to come out of back hub or that area on left hand side. 
I had dried with compressor and towel after wash. So water must of got inside somewhere.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

bbunnys said:


> Has anyone noticed back hub on bike getting water in it. Have not had my bike long and gave it a clean 2 days ago. Just light spray with hose.
> Then this morning put bike on its end. (handle bars and front wheel in the air) and a lot of water seemed to come out of back hub or that area on left hand side.
> I had dried with compressor and towel after wash. So water must of got inside somewhere.


I get water out of the chainstays/axle it seems after a wash.

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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

bbunnys said:


> Has anyone noticed back hub on bike getting water in it. Have not had my bike long and gave it a clean 2 days ago. Just light spray with hose.
> Then this morning put bike on its end. (handle bars and front wheel in the air) and a lot of water seemed to come out of back hub or that area on left hand side.
> I had dried with compressor and towel after wash. So water must of got inside somewhere.


Hub will fail you in the end and possibly leave you stranded,do yourself a favor and build wheel with a durable hub.


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## ALScott (Sep 1, 2016)

Picked up the bike yesterday and it's super cool. I am OK with tubeless set up charge as my LBS sold the Fuse Comp to me for $1,100. I rode it for a few miles and at first was a little disappointed. Bear in mind this is all new to me as I have always been a roadie. I tried mtb about 18 years ago and hit the ground hard a lot. I went around my neighborhood in a park, on the road, etc and it was OK. Then I started plowing around my house, (I live on a very steep hill). It was AWESOME around the yard once I started dialing in gearing, etc. I was diving off steep slopes, etc, some slow, tight turns and such. It was a hoot. It is going to take some time to settle into but this bike is super cool. I am definitely a newbie but I think I have caught a whole new bug. I can't wait to go out with some of my buddies who are MTB riders. Comparing it to my road bike this thing is equally a serious climber!! It felt really slow and sluggish on pavement but then I started some short and medium climbs and I was pulling the front end off the ground! It was awesome and a completely new experience. Brought it on vacation on the Gulf coast and can't wait to hit some trails here. By the way if you have the original Kuat Sherpa it will NOT carry the Fuse safely. Had to go pick up a Sherpa 2.0 to quit sweating that. Sherpa 2.0 is an AWESOME rack if anybody was wondering.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Glad you love it. 

Im about to reassemble mine. 

Just upgraded to a ceramic BB with aluminum body. Did XO1 gearing with 32t front. Onyx hubs, it needs a new fork, Im thinking a Fox Performance 34. 

Oh, and, Minion 2.8s as soon as I can get my hands on them.

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## nemesis256 (Aug 16, 2014)

Very nooby question.

I removed the front tire of my Fuse for the first time today, that thing is challenging. Want to make sure I put it back on correctly. There's a line on the thru axle marked UP, but it had to be pointing down for it to work right (when the bike is upside down the UP line would be correct). Shoved the thru axle as far in as it would go. Then screwed in that silver/grey thing, then gave the handle a quarter turn with a push for the spring to engage. Only problem was that the handle was loose. I had to loosen the silver/grey thing to make the handle as tight as it should be.

Is that all correct?


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

If it dint fall off, your good. My dilemma involves the rear rim wants to come loose, like a hooker on payday. The bearings sound like sandpaper Sally. I'm getting a lil perturbed.


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## bbunnys (Aug 28, 2016)

Went for a 5 hour ride over weekend and think after owing bike for 1 week or so bottom bracket is going. 
Partway through ride when going up hill was making a clicking kind of sound and could feel it every rotation through left pedal. Did seem ok on the flats though. 

Guess its back to the shop to get it fixed/replaced.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

That's no bueno. Took mine out for a ride today and really loved it. There's a few issues to address but this bike is FUN. my dropper post takes a few try's to get it to lock in the full up position.


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## a3purren (Jul 22, 2016)

Loving this bike. No issues so far with the hubs or BB. Rode it for awhile with tubes and finally went tubeless. Dialing in the pressure took some miles but 16psi in the back and 15 in the front is perfect for me.

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## jkbatca (May 23, 2016)

After many inquiry posts, wife negotiations, and indecision, just got a Fuse Comp yesterday and rode it first time today bone stock no mods. I must say I LOVE this bike already! The bike did not seem any harder to pedal than my previous bikes and the traction from the tires is incredible! Handles and climbs well.

Not fond of the pedals though. May have to change them...

Before dirt








After dirt


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

I have a Manitou Magnum fork from the '16 Expert model for sale. Off the XL w/ 185mm of steer tube. Message me if any interest here.



jkbatca said:


> After many inquiry posts, wife negotiations, and indecision, just got a Fuse Comp yesterday and rode it first time today bone stock no mods. I must say I LOVE this bike already! The bike did not seem any harder to pedal than my previous bikes and the traction from the tires is incredible! Handles and climbs well.
> 
> Not fond of the pedals though. May have to change them...
> 
> ...


Those pedals are made to take parking lot test rides, not actually ride and have fun. But glad you are enjoying the bike otherwise!


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

So I know that an upgraded rear hub is in my future. What are the best available options? I have seen SRAM, onyx and hope mentioned however it seems like there are very limited options that meet the 28h spoke count and non-xd style cassette and boost spacing. I did confirm my bike doesn't have the xd style cassette. 

Also, does anyone have a part number for the front/rear caliper adapters to fit 203/185 rotors?

Thanks!


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## bbunnys (Aug 28, 2016)

rock-rod said:


> So I know that an upgraded rear hub is in my future. What are the best available options? I have seen SRAM, onyx and hope mentioned however it seems like there are very limited options that meet the 28h spoke count and non-xd style cassette and boost spacing. I did confirm my bike doesn't have the xd style cassette.
> 
> Also, does anyone have a part number for the front/rear caliper adapters to fit 203/185 rotors?
> 
> Thanks!


I'd be keen to know this as well. Along with bottom bracket.


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## nemesis256 (Aug 16, 2014)

bbunnys said:


> I'd be keen to know this as well. Along with bottom bracket.


For the BB this one's been mentioned before in this thread.

PF30 Threaded Angular Contact BB (Black)

I replaced mine with one from Wheels Mfg, just not sure if it's the one. I don't remember paying $100 for it, was closer to $50 I think. LBS found and installed it for me.

Edit: nevermind, found the charge on my credit card, pretty sure that's the one I got.


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## bbunnys (Aug 28, 2016)

Sorry for all questions but I live in New Zealand and parts here are so expesive. Was looking to import some XT M8000 brakes for my Fuse. As half the price to buy overseas and import. 
Do they fit ok? And when it says front brake "right hand leaver" presume it means front brake is on right hand handle bar.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

bbunnys said:


> Sorry for all questions but I live in New Zealand and parts here are so expesive. Was looking to import some XT M8000 brakes for my Fuse. As half the price to buy overseas and import.
> Do they fit ok? And when it says front brake "right hand leaver" presume it means front brake is on right hand handle bar.


Yes, that would mean the front is on the right. That's 'moto' style and seems to be popular in the UK. Chain reaction cycles sells most sets both ways I believe. If you prefer left as the front, just switch them when you're shortening the hoses.

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## marcookem (Aug 1, 2016)

techfersure said:


> View attachment 1022931
> 
> 
> Glad I took a chance on it, but helped that price was right! A real pleasure to ride really responsive in all terrain, especially like the geometry for technical and features very stable on technical climbs too.


Is this Harrison Hills? Nice bike though, undecided between this and the Salsa Timberjack. Will make up my mind in a couple of months...


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## hgravez (Jul 15, 2008)

Just want to tap the collective wisdom of the group. I just picked up my Medium 2017 Fuse Expert the other day and have one ride under my belt. I found the ride to be quite harsh and noticed some odd handling characteristics. 

For the ride quality: I suspect this will be resolved by going tubeless. I don't have a sensitive enough pressure gauge (its on order) to know my exact PSI, but I believe it to be around 20 F/R. I was getting the basketball bounce and it really affected my handling on technical sections. I know most are running them much lower, but I was afraid to pinch a flat. Is it true that the stock rims (Stout XC SL 38) come pre-taped and that you just need to add valves and sealant? I'm about 160lbs with gear -any suggestions on tubeless PSI?

For the handling: The traction is no-doubt amazing. But, I noticed interesting behavior on technical sections. It could certainly roll right over stuff, but the back tire would get hung up on things unless I really kept the gas on hard. It didn't carry the momentum as my HT and FS 29ers do. Not sure if this is the tire, the PSI, the overall weight of the bike, the increased inertia from the tubes, or a combo...

Any and all input is much appreciated. I'm sure I just need to dial in the bike and anyone's help doing so would be great. I just want to enjoy my Fuse as much as the rest of you!!


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

hgravez said:


> Just want to tap the collective wisdom of the group. I just picked up my Medium 2017 Fuse Expert the other day and have one ride under my belt. I found the ride to be quite harsh and noticed some odd handling characteristics.
> 
> For the ride quality: I suspect this will be resolved by going tubeless. I don't have a sensitive enough pressure gauge (its on order) to know my exact PSI, but I believe it to be around 20 F/R. I was getting the basketball bounce and it really affected my handling on technical sections. I know most are running them much lower, but I was afraid to pinch a flat. Is it true that the stock rims (Stout XC SL 38) come pre-taped and that you just need to add valves and sealant? I'm about 160lbs with gear -any suggestions on tubeless PSI?
> 
> ...


Just enjoy what characteristics it brings to the table. That being said,I have killed to specific Strava KOM's set by hardtail elite XC riders on my Fuse...so potential is unlimited.


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## ski1970 (Aug 20, 2007)

FastBanana said:


> Glad you love it.
> 
> Im about to reassemble mine.
> 
> ...


I am selling the Reba off my wife's fuse pro ( rode 3 times ). I had to get a new Reba due to her hight on a xlarge was not tall enough ( steer tube ). I hate how Specialize cuts them down with only one 10 mm spacer


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## a3purren (Jul 22, 2016)

hgravez said:


> Just want to tap the collective wisdom of the group. I just picked up my Medium 2017 Fuse Expert the other day and have one ride under my belt. I found the ride to be quite harsh and noticed some odd handling characteristics.
> 
> For the ride quality: I suspect this will be resolved by going tubeless. I don't have a sensitive enough pressure gauge (its on order) to know my exact PSI, but I believe it to be around 20 F/R. I was getting the basketball bounce and it really affected my handling on technical sections. I know most are running them much lower, but I was afraid to pinch a flat. Is it true that the stock rims (Stout XC SL 38) come pre-taped and that you just need to add valves and sealant? I'm about 160lbs with gear -any suggestions on tubeless PSI?
> 
> ...


Lower your pressure! I ran 15psi front and 16 psi rear with tubes. I found that even 1psi increase made a huge difference. Get your gauge and dial it in. I increased 1psi F/R when I went tubeless.

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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

I was looking at the specs for the 2017 Fuses. It looks like they are all 38mm wide rims now. I really don't think I would like that width compared to my 45's. Got in 3 rides this weekend, and having more fun every time I ride it. 
MikeB


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## hgravez (Jul 15, 2008)

Awesome, thanks for advice. I definitely will. Looking forward to seeing how that goes.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

Well I have racked up about 100 miles on the bike and at the end of my ride today the dropper post decided it was done. It would no longer stay locked and any sort of seat pressure cause it to go down. The bike is now at the local specialized store for a warranty repair. Bummer. I really like riding this bike.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

rock-rod said:


> Well I have racked up about 100 miles on the bike and at the end of my ride today the dropper post decided it was done. It would no longer stay locked and any sort of seat pressure cause it to go down. The bike is now at the local specialized store for a warranty repair. Bummer. I really like riding this bike.


That's too bad! I've thankfully had pretty good luck with mine, and I'm over the weight limit.


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## BCsaltchucker (Jan 16, 2014)

worrisome to hear about the dropper post fail. though few posts are immune to this

how are the TRP Slate brakes performing on the Fuse comp folks?


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## Nissan80 (May 20, 2016)

My dropper has been good but the cable did get sticky and cause it to keep dropping. Just a new cable fixed the problem.
I was originally going to swap the TRP brakes out as they felt underpowered. It seemed like the pistons were sticking so i tried cycling the pistons in and out a few times. - Remove the caliper then push the pads all the way back in then pump the lever a few times to push them out again. This got all the pistons moving and when I refitted them the power was much stronger!
Im happy to leave them on the bike now.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

Hoping the issue with my dropper is just the cable. The lever has always been difficult to operate. The front brake is good but the rear is a little weak. I have a set of zees on my DH bike and they are easily double the stopping power. Just not sure I need that much on this bike.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

As for brakes, this is my experience. 

At first, I loved the TRPs. Great modulation. Takes Saint pads. Easy to bleed. However, they hold pads a little loose, and dont have the same power or heat management as Shimano. 

I also have a set of TRP Slate T4s on my Enduro Expert, and have nearly burned my rear brake to the ground. I had it smoking coming down the last stretch of Pikes Peak (Barr trail). Ive put a few bike park days on them too, but the hardest conditions on brakes is long steep trail riding IMO. 

Soooooo, to mitigate these issues, I just intalled XT calipers (M785) onto the TRP levers. Huge power compared to the X2/X4 caliper. Less modulation too. The only issue so far, is the pads dont retract very far so adjusting the calipers is a challenge. Im going to see if it get better as they bed in, of not, Ill install some shimano levers instead. 

We will see 

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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

BCsaltchucker said:


> worrisome to hear about the dropper post fail. though few posts are immune to this
> 
> how are the TRP Slate brakes performing on the Fuse comp folks?


I really liked the TRP's at first. Great modulation but the lever always felt soft to me and seemed down on stopping power. I contacted TRP and they warrantied a new T4 caliper for me to replace the X2 in the rear. It was moderately better after putting Saint pads in. Lever still felt soft no matter how much bleeding I did. They also got beastly hot on long descents and faded quite badly.

I ended up replacing them with the new XT brakes. So much more stopping power and slightly better modulation than the older XT's.


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## bbunnys (Aug 28, 2016)

Has anyone tried Easton Arc rims on the Fuse bike. Want to upgrade the hubs and looking at some DT Swiss 350 hubs. But wondering if I do rims at same time. See Easton do a 35, 40 or 45 internal option.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

So they are going to warranty the dropper and replace it with a specialized command post. Guess that's a good thing right?


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## BCsaltchucker (Jan 16, 2014)

thanks for heads up on the TRP brakes. I am leaving my Fuse at my vacay home in AZ, so not too easy to upgrade things on it as I am there only a week or two at a time to ride and not wait for parts. Might order up some XT brakes if I feel any shortcomings on first rides here in PNW, before I head south next month. gettin itchy for the Fuse. ordered a closeout Fuse Comp last week (and my new full sus bike is in the shop for warranty repair - 2 new bikes and yet bikeless!!)


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## fmf979 (Feb 14, 2016)

rock-rod said:


> So they are going to warranty the dropper and replace it with a specialized command post. Guess that's a good thing right?


Did they say how/why it might have failed?


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

BCsaltchucker said:


> thanks for heads up on the TRP brakes. I am leaving my Fuse at my vacay home in AZ, so not too easy to upgrade things on it as I am there only a week or two at a time to ride and not wait for parts. Might order up some XT brakes if I feel any shortcomings on first rides here in PNW, before I head south next month. gettin itchy for the Fuse. ordered a closeout Fuse Comp last week (and my new full sus bike is in the shop for warranty repair - 2 new bikes and yet bikeless!!)


You should be ok on the stock brakes unless you are decending more than 1500 feet (verticle) at a time. Or really heavy.

I have a few park days in on a set of T4s on 180s on my Enduro. They are fine in the bike park. Only extended braking gets to them, but XTs are the same way. No brake stays cool being drug for a mile. XTs just have an on off feel.

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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

just ordered some new pedals and grips. I am going to leave the brakes alone for now. they seem to be working fine although they are a little noisy.


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## Hyder88 (Mar 29, 2016)

BCsaltchucker said:


> thanks for heads up on the TRP brakes. I am leaving my Fuse at my vacay home in AZ, so not too easy to upgrade things on it as I am there only a week or two at a time to ride and not wait for parts. Might order up some XT brakes if I feel any shortcomings on first rides here in PNW, before I head south next month. gettin itchy for the Fuse. ordered a closeout Fuse Comp last week (and my new full sus bike is in the shop for warranty repair - 2 new bikes and yet bikeless!!)


I live down in Tucson AZ, 170 pounds.. Brakes are just fine for anything around here.. Picked up a pair of Shimano saint pedals, so far really like them. Have not changed grips yet, not sure which one's I want yet, what are you going with??


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

I use the stock SIP grips on all my bikes. 

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## Hyder88 (Mar 29, 2016)

FastBanana said:


> I use the stock SIP grips on all my bikes.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


That's what came stock on my 6Fattie, looking for something a little bit thicker.. Those feel really small in my hands..


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

SIP XL. 

Ergon is a great choice too

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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

I have Odi Rogues on my stinky freeride bike and love them. I ordered the same ones for my Fuse. I also went with a pair of saint platform pedals (not a fan of clipless).


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## BCsaltchucker (Jan 16, 2014)

Hyder88 said:


> I live down in Tucson AZ, 170 pounds.. Brakes are just fine for anything around here.. Picked up a pair of Shimano saint pedals, so far really like them. Have not changed grips yet, not sure which one's I want yet, what are you going with??


I am putting on Sram XO grip shift with built in grip. rockbros flat pedals. mght bring down some XT SPD to see if clippers work for me down there in AZ. I ride flats only here in PNW.

good news - picked up my Comp Fuse today!! so stoked I am gonna go out into the rainy night gnarl for a maiden ride. month from now, it will be at its new home in Tucson. Will be scoping for great trails. will do the AZ trail at pistol rd again for sure. maybe something on Lemmon too. what do ya recommend??

haven't ridden the bike yet. the TRP brakes feel like mush to me, but I know that will change in a couple miles of trail. Hope the levers extend enough to be comfy, I have longgg fingers. I know sourcing XT brakes is easy and fairly cheap if I feel the need. will giv ethe TRPs a good chance first

the front thru axle is a pita! took the sales guy and me 5 minutes to get it through the front fork onto my fork mount roof rack. finicky


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## BCsaltchucker (Jan 16, 2014)

She comes in at 31.5 lbs without mud and grime installed yet.

some nice matching pedals



shifter I prefer



big bike


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

i stole the Zee brakes from my downhill bike (season is done) and swapped them over to my Fuse. Instant braking improvement even with the stock diameter rotors.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

I upgraded the brakes on my '17 Fuse to XT M8000 with Ice-Tech rotors 180/160mm. HUGE improvement.

Also swapped out the janky plastic-cupped bottom bracket for a Wheels threaded unit and while I was in there put on a set of Race Face Turbine Cinch cranks with a 30T ring. No more creaks.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

i want to swap out my crank as well. Is the race face lighter than the stock stout? I am shopping the shimano xt 1x11 crank with 30t sprocket. Would be nice to shed a little extra weight in the process. 

Also guessing you had to use the special BB set that accepts the smaller diameter crank?


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

I didnt weigh the Race Face but I can tell you the stock Stout crankset with 28T ring weighs 820g according to my digital scale, and Race Face claims 630g for the crankset w/ 32T ring so thats ~190g weight savings. 

My bike as shown minus water bottle and jacket is 29.6lb w/ tubeless and carbon bars.

Crank spindle on the Race Face is 30mm, same as stock. No special adapters other than spacers to get the right q-factor and bearing preload.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

And one other tip: the stock trans-x dropper lever sucks a big one, so i replaced just the lever and cable with the race face turbine dropper 1x lever and it's a huge improvement. Actuation is a real pleasure now with pivot bearings and increased leverage ratio.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

thegoldrun said:


> And one other tip: the stock trans-x dropper lever sucks a big one, so i replaced just the lever and cable with the race face turbine lever and it's a huge improvement.


The dropper is ****. Its hard to compress and is super heavy. Replaced mines with a Command Post. Veddy nice

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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

FastBanana said:


> The dropper is ****. Its hard to compress and is super heavy.


See my post above. With the turbine lever it's a fine budget dropper.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

thegoldrun said:


> See my post above. With the turbine lever it's a fine budget dropper.


I had no issue with the lever.

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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

I am getting a whole new command post dropper and lever for mine. Currently riding with a fixed post for now (not fun). New saint platform pedals are now installed. Next i will tackle the drivetrain and likely convert over to shimano xt.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

The ZEE brakes on this bike are awesome. I highly recommend them. You don't realize how crappy the stock brakes really are.

Also swapped out the stock cassette for another sunrace 11/42. It was a direct swap with no adjustments needed in the mech.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

thegoldrun said:


> I didnt weigh the Race Face but I can tell you the stock Stout crankset with 28T ring weighs 820g according to my digital scale, and Race Face claims 630g for the crankset w/ 32T ring so thats ~190g weight savings.
> 
> My bike as shown minus water bottle and jacket is 29.6lb w/ tubeless and carbon bars.
> 
> Crank spindle on the Race Face is 30mm, same as stock. No special adapters other than spacers to get the right q-factor and bearing preload.


Did you use a BB30 or PF30 bottom bracket. I am confused on the difference and want to know which is correct for the Cinch cranks. Also are all the cinch cranks the same spindle length? Still trying to wrap my head around this.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

rock-rod said:


> Did you use a BB30 or PF30 bottom bracket. I am confused on the difference and want to know which is correct for the Cinch cranks. Also are all the cinch cranks the same spindle length? Still trying to wrap my head around this.


The BB is a PF30, the part number I purchased is PF30-THD-AC. I went with 175mm crank arms and 30T chainring. I cant recall my spindle length (purchased on ebay as new takeoff) but yes they do make several lengths.


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## chrisyews (Jun 29, 2016)

I installed a RF Turbine Cinch, used the 68/73 version. You will also need an outboard bearing PF30 BB. You might as well get the RaceFace Cinch version. 63 year old big guy who wanted a 28 tooth for riding in the White Mountain in NH. The 30 tooth standard chain ring was not quite there, 28 tooth helps on those steep climbs.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

I am in CO and the 30t is simply not working for me. I ordered both a 26t and a 28t direct mount chain ring and will experiment with the gearing.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

Im in Colorado too, at 8500ft, and the 30T works for me. It was definitely a noticeable change from the 28T but it makes me a stronger rider.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

LOL - I need all the help I can get. Ideally I want to get to a place where I can pedal the 30t but not there yet from a strength and endurance stand point. It's also hard when you are behind someone who is a spinner and forced to move at a speed that is below that threshold in maintaining momentum.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

Glad I ordered parts - my bottom bracket just went out. It sounds like a bunch of mice have moved in.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

rock-rod said:


> LOL - I need all the help I can get. Ideally I want to get to a place where I can pedal the 30t but not there yet from a strength and endurance stand point. It's also hard when you are behind someone who is a spinner and forced to move at a speed that is below that threshold in maintaining momentum.


Ha! That sounds like me. I have a 28x42, and I'm not afraid to use it. I am good about letting people past before a steep, singletrack climb, however. Besides, folks with more demanding gears in front of me make for good motivation to spin faster.


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## leelorr (Jan 8, 2015)

*Anyone find a rack that will fit onto the Fuse yet (a rack to install ONTO the bike)?*

Anyone find a rack that will fit onto the Fuse yet (a rack to install ONTO the bike)?

I have found the universal Thule pack'n pedal rack, but was hoping to find something else that might fit. I haven't had much luck searching since there don't appear to be any mounting holes, etc. on the bike.

Thanks,
lorrinl


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

My turbine crank set finally arrived after two weeks of waiting. Install was stupid easy. I used a raceface pf30 bottom bracket without the spacers (shell on the fuse is 73mm wide) and everything lined up perfectly. There's a decent weight savings too.


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## slevin011 (Sep 26, 2016)

Hey guys,

I just ordered a '17 Fuse Comp on Saturday and it should be arriving tomorrow. I assume the shop will help me set up the fork, but I have never had a bike with suspension before and would appreciate some advice with regard to recommended sag, compression, and rebound that has worked well for you. I understand a lot of suspension setup is based on feel/personal preference, but I have limited experience and don't know how to tell what feels "right" if the guys at the shop ask...

I'm 6'1" and bounce around between 190-200lbs. After a few demo rides on SE Michigan singletrack, I'm gaining some confidence, but I am still taking some of the more technical trails slower than I probably could due to nerves (big roots and rocks slow me down the most). I am ultimately looking to ride purely for fun and hope to get faster and more aggressive on the downhill sections, though I have no plans to do any races. Not too worried about the fitness part of mountain biking since I'm in the gym 6 days a week. If I get stuck and have to push my bike up a hill it's not the end of the world as long as I have a good time on the way back down. 

Oh, one more thing...what about tire pressure? I asked the demo guy at the trail and he said the bike I was riding was set up at 14psi rear 11psi front; however, it sounded like a bit of air may have leaked out when he went to measure. Does that seem normal? As with the fork, I don't think I would have known if it was good or bad since I have nothing to compare it to. 

Thanks!


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

Set sag around 25-30% of travel to start out (120mm fork = 30-36mm to start). Go ride and see how it feels.

Anyone that tells you that there is a "hot setup" with regard to where to turn knobs is blowing smoke up yer ass. 

Go play with all the settings and see how it feels. Find a section of trail that represents what you ride most and do some sessioning of it. Turn the compression dial to each of the extremes and note how it feels. Do the same with rebound.

Get a shock pump and play with air pressure. Add and remove 10psi. Then 20psi. See how it feels. Keep tabs on if you are blowing through all your travel and bottoming out.

Compression controls how active the damper in the fork is. All open and the fork will move freely. All closed and the fork will essentially be locked out, only moving for big hits (prevents damage to the fork). 

Rebound controls how fast the damper returns the fork (and thus front wheel) back to the extended position. All open and the fork will be at its fastest return speed. All closed and the fork will be at its slowest. 

The middle settings for both compression and rebound simply blend the extremes together. You can do a lot of reading online for how to turn suspension, but in my experience, telling someone just to go see how the extremes feel is an extremely valuable first step for being able to dial in how you want it to feel without the help of others.


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## slevin011 (Sep 26, 2016)

oKayH said:


> Set sag around 25-30% of travel to start out (120mm fork = 30-36mm to start). Go ride and see how it feels.
> 
> Anyone that tells you that there is a "hot setup" with regard to where to turn knobs is blowing smoke up yer ass.
> 
> ...


Thanks! I'll keep that in mind. I just got the call that my bike is in the shop being built and I should be able to pick it up tonight! The next few hours of work are going to be torture.


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## BCsaltchucker (Jan 16, 2014)

leelorr said:


> Anyone find a rack that will fit onto the Fuse yet (a rack to install ONTO the bike)?
> 
> I have found the universal Thule pack'n pedal rack, but was hoping to find something else that might fit. I haven't had much luck searching since there don't appear to be any mounting holes, etc. on the bike.
> 
> ...


are you sure you need a rack on it?

there are some fantastic choices in 'bikepacking' gear that generally do a great job hauling stuff around, and with more stability, lighter weight and more ease too.

my fav gear is Apidura, Blackburn but there are dozens of others. https://www.apidura.com/


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

FWIW I just destroyed the rear i45 rim. Landed hard on a rock. Was running 20psi, Im 190 pounds. Was a little dissapointed in then for being 650 grams. 

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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

bummer - going carbon?


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## aenima (Jan 19, 2006)

Not sure if you got your answer yet, but the rims are tubeless ready. Just pull the tube out, put a stem in,add stans and add air!


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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

Wow, sorry to hear about your rim! You must have landed odd on that rock? I am about your weight geared up on 38mm Rovals on my Fuse Sworks, running 16psi in the rear on Grids. Was actually thinking about trying 15 tomorrow.


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## bbunnys (Aug 28, 2016)

Has anyone had issue putting back wheel on. When I try and put the through axle bolt in it wont engage with thread. Just keeps spinning and not engaging. Spent about an hour on it. Wonder if maybe frame not quite square? Used to be fine and even with back wheel off I cant get it to engage and wind up.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

oKayH said:


> Set sag around 25-30% of travel to start out (120mm fork = 30-36mm to start). Go ride and see how it feels.
> 
> Anyone that tells you that there is a "hot setup" with regard to where to turn knobs is blowing smoke up yer ass.
> 
> ...


Generally good advice, but 25-30% sag is a good rule of thumb for rear shocks not forks. Most manufacturers recommend 15-20% for forks. There's nothing wrong with going a little above that range, but I wouldn't start above 20% sag or you'll likely find that you have too little pressure in the shock for the big hits.

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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

I def landed wrong. And was also going really fast. Im up there on strava. 



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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

My raidon fork is done. About middle way on my ride today I started feeling something loose in the bars. At first I thought it was headset but upon further investigation it turned out to be the fork. The lowers are wobbling on the stanchions. Decided to pull the trigger on a RS Pike RC 150mm and boost spacing (take off from a 2017 FSR stump jumper). I will post some pics once it arrives and I install it. Also decided to upgrade the rear hub and ordered a SRAM 900. I have no idea how to swap it out so that job will have to go to the LBS.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

bbunnys said:


> Has anyone had issue putting back wheel on. When I try and put the through axle bolt in it wont engage with thread. Just keeps spinning and not engaging. Spent about an hour on it. Wonder if maybe frame not quite square? Used to be fine and even with back wheel off I cant get it to engage and wind up.


Loosen the 4mm bolt holding the derailleur hanger. Its out of alignment

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## Wedgewing (Oct 19, 2016)

*Sizing*

Looking at the 2017 Fuse Comp and test rode an XL at the LBS

I am getting back into trail riding because we now actually have legal trails ... I am 6'4" and 230# and ride a tight cockpit "circa 1996" Dback VLink.. ( added super tall seat post and stem riser/extension to fit on it) ... based on what I ride, anything feels like I have more room 

They have this XL left or I have to begin the hunt for an XXL frame if I want a bike this season... the dropper post is nice, but this is how the XL is set up on the test ride for my 34/35 inseam to ride.. the seat post is at the minimum insertion line (it probably could go down some because I tend to ride my MTB on tow paths which are more distance road type riding setup)..

Question is compromise based... go for the XL with the seat post extended to close to the minimum line (max raised) .... I don't fit horribly on it from a reach basis.. or embrace my inner Sasquatch height and roll with the XXL if I can find one this season (or next when the three that they make in my size are available


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## dzdncfsd (Oct 19, 2016)

Have been looking to get back into riding after taking about 12 years off. Have narrowed my search down to the Fuse as I think this would be a great starter bike and could easily handle riding around time with the family and light trail riding. Was curious though about which to choose. I've been going back and forth between the 2016 and 2017 models. My local shop still has a 2016 Expert in stock or should I go with the 2017 Comp at basically the same price? Is the expert a better all around deal? Sorry I wish I knew more about all of the components but things have sure changed since I was last riding.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

The fork and rear hub leave a lot to be desired on the comp. if the 2016 expert offers better components over the 2017 comp then I would go with that option.


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

dzdncfsd said:


> Have been looking to get back into riding after taking about 12 years off. Have narrowed my search down to the Fuse as I think this would be a great starter bike and could easily handle riding around time with the family and light trail riding. Was curious though about which to choose. I've been going back and forth between the 2016 and 2017 models. My local shop still has a 2016 Expert in stock or should I go with the 2017 Comp at basically the same price? Is the expert a better all around deal? Sorry I wish I knew more about all of the components but things have sure changed since I was last riding.


I have the 2016 expert and have looked at the differences going to 2017. First, I know very little about forks. The 2016 has the Manitou Magnum, I think it is great, but what do I know? The 17 comp has the Manitou Machete which may be a better fork than the Magnum?? Just an impression from reading here on MTBR. 
The 16 expert has double butted spokes for a little weight savings. The 16 also gets the wider I45 rims as opposed to the I38 rims on all the 2017's. for me I am sure I would like the 45's better, but have not tried the 38's. 17 has 28x42 low gear, I'm envious. 16 got the 30x40 low gear. 
16 is 10 speed, 17 gets 11
The Fuse was a game changer for me, loving it.


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## dzdncfsd (Oct 19, 2016)

WMBigs said:


> I have the 2016 expert and have looked at the differences going to 2017. First, I know very little about forks. The 2016 has the Manitou Magnum, I think it is great, but what do I know? The 17 comp has the Manitou Machete which may be a better fork than the Magnum?? Just an impression from reading here on MTBR.
> The 16 expert has double butted spokes for a little weight savings. The 16 also gets the wider I45 rims as opposed to the I38 rims on all the 2017's. for me I am sure I would like the 45's better, but have not tried the 38's. 17 has 28x42 low gear, I'm envious. 16 got the 30x40 low gear.
> 16 is 10 speed, 17 gets 11
> The Fuse was a game changer for me, loving it.


Thank you for the info. Talked to my lbs and I'm now considering the 16 pro. Too many bikes and not enough money lol.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

phride said:


> Generally good advice, but 25-30% sag is a good rule of thumb for rear shocks not forks. Most manufacturers recommend 15-20% for forks. There's nothing wrong with going a little above that range, but I wouldn't start above 20% sag or you'll likely find that you have too little pressure in the shock for the big hits.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


It should probably be said that it depends on your intended use. My Fuse is closer to 30% and my long travel FS is around 30%. I have my forks ramp up a lot so that they soak up all the small stuff but leave enough for the big hits. Running 15-20% on a shorter travel fork is good if you are 1) running a linear spring rate, 2) looking for efficiency, 3) ride really smooth trail


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

150mm RS Pike installed (ditched the stock Raidon). Also added a 200mm front rotor. Test ride tomorrow at lair o the bear.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

road lair o' the bear this morning with the new fork. Man it's sweet. Massive improvement over the stock raidon noodle. Bad news is my rear hub took a hike on the last climb before the big drop back to the lot. had to push the bike up to the top and then coasted on in. the LBS has my rear wheel and will swap the stout for the SRAM 900 hub over the weekend.


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## RumRunnerXT (Sep 24, 2005)

dzdncfsd said:


> Have been looking to get back into riding after taking about 12 years off. Have narrowed my search down to the Fuse as I think this would be a great starter bike and could easily handle riding around time with the family and light trail riding. Was curious though about which to choose. I've been going back and forth between the 2016 and 2017 models. My local shop still has a 2016 Expert in stock or should I go with the 2017 Comp at basically the same price? Is the expert a better all around deal? Sorry I wish I knew more about all of the components but things have sure changed since I was last riding.


I was considering going with a 16 over a 17 a few weeks ago but ended up going with the '17 Comp and have no regrets... I'm like you, just getting back into some riding and no expert but here are some of the reason I personally chose the 2017 model.
Exra gear, 11speed vs 10speed
Narrower rims(Lbs said they had a few customers damage the wider rims from low air pressure and roots) not sure how true but they had a 2016 instock and no 2017 so they weren't looking for the quick sale. 
Fork seams to work great so far, however it's logetivity is yet to be known, but none of the 2016 forks excited me anymore with their reviews.
And lastly the 2017 colors are pretty sweet!
Good luck, it's a fun bike to get back into some trail riding!


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

just to confirm as previously mentioned in this thread, the SRAM 900 hub is a direct swap from the stout and new spokes are not needed (assuming they are in good shape).


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

here's my Fuse with all the modifications that i have done. I have pretty much customized this bike to the way i like it. It would have been cheaper to start with a frame and add in the parts but heck, i loved it when it was new and i love it even more now.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Whats the travel on that pike?


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

150mm. The fork definitely raised the front of the bike up and slackened the head angle a bit but it's had no negative effect on technical climbing. Going fast down steep stuff is awesome. It's also nice to have a little more room for pedal swing (ie fewer rock strikes).


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## ArchieTolliver (Sep 6, 2016)

Rock-rod. How do you like those saint pedals? And which fork model# is that?


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Building up a Ruze frame for my GF. First plus bike for either of us. We're stoked. If anyone has an extra boost fork, lemme know!


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

I have a SR Raidon from my fuse i would sell

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## Rad Man (Jul 11, 2016)

thx for sharing, rock-rod. 

I'm thinking of upgrading to a Pike or Fox float 34. Anyone have the Fox on their Fuse? I see Specialized is putting the rhythm on the high end 2017s 

rusty904: I have a Reba, only a few months old. if youre interested, PM me


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## jbowland (May 7, 2004)

Just got a 2017 Fuse Expert Carbon. Freaking love it. Everything is stock, tubeless on the tires and put a second bottle cage on it. If can figure out how to post photos in the forum I will. I've got two rides running about 17-18 psi in the tires. All the parts are top end and work very well. The fox Rhythm fork is fantastic so far, very good small bump sensitivity and very stiff too. It's got the swat box on the down tube, I could put a sandwich and can of beer in there and still have room for tools and a spare tube.
I got the red, it's more like fluorescent orange.

Link to the bike: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/trail/fuse-expert-carbon-6fattie/118209


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

ArchieTolliver said:


> Rock-rod. How do you like those saint pedals? And which fork model# is that?


It's a rockshox pike rs 150mm travel fork from a stump jumper. It works we either 29s or 27.5+. Since it was from a specialized bike it was a direct swap.

I like th saints about 90% of the time. Techy climbs are a challenge but other wise I like them for everything else.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

I have the raidon that came off my bike. It's the 120mm travel version the fits the med,large,X large frames. I think the small uses a shorter fork.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

I vaguely remember reading that a 34t is the biggest chainring that the Fuse can fit, but I cannot find the reference now (I've looked on the spec website). Does anyone know? Looking to see if I can do a 32T or 34T AB oval ring.


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## jbowland (May 7, 2004)

Fuse Carbon. The paint is so bright it's impossible to photo well.
So far I love it.


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## bbunnys (Aug 28, 2016)

....


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## bbunnys (Aug 28, 2016)

rock-rod said:


> It's a rockshox pike rs 150mm travel fork from a stump jumper. It works we either 29s or 27.5+. Since it was from a specialized bike it was a direct swap.
> 
> I like th saints about 90% of the time. Techy climbs are a challenge but other wise I like them for everything else.


Ive got the Manitou Magnum Comp on my Fuse and have upgraded everything on bike except fork. 
Did you have this one before the Pike? As interested to see how much better Pike is over Manitou. I do get lots of peddle strikes so if this helps could be a good option for me


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

My bike can with the low end sun tour raidon fork. The pike is a huge step up in performance.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

oKayH said:


> I vaguely remember reading that a 34t is the biggest chainring that the Fuse can fit, but I cannot find the reference now (I've looked on the spec website). Does anyone know? Looking to see if I can do a 32T or 34T AB oval ring.


Been using an Absolute Black 32t all season.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

bbunnys said:


> Ive got the Manitou Magnum Comp on my Fuse and have upgraded everything on bike except fork.
> Did you have this one before the Pike? As interested to see how much better Pike is over Manitou. I do get lots of peddle strikes so if this helps could be a good option for me


I have a Fox Factory Float 34 150mm on my Fuse,thought I take it down to 130 - 140mm even bought a 40mm assembly but like it at 150mm so much just left it so,no pedal strikes and or climbing issues,it actually feels perfectly suited for the frame.


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## bbunnys (Aug 28, 2016)

bbunnys said:


> ....





techfersure said:


> I have a Fox Factory Float 34 150mm on my Fuse,thought I take it down to 130 - 140mm even bought a 40mm assembly but like it at 150mm so much just left it so,no pedal strikes and or climbing issues,it actually feels perfectly suited for the frame.


Nice, and is it much better over Magnum as far as ride goes. Also have you got link to model you got and presume it fits straight in.
Also interested how you find 150mm over the standard 120mm on rough downhills. Does it give more confidence and speed over rough stuff.


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## FOMZ (Oct 31, 2016)

Bought a 2016 Fuse Expert in Gloss Hyper for $500. It was kind of beat up but for the price, I thought it was a steal. What do you guys think? 

Also the fork doesnt seem to lockout. Does it even come with a lockout setting? It has the Manitou Magnum Comp fork.


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## slevin011 (Sep 26, 2016)

Dumb question...how much suspension travel should I be using? I have only been on about 5 rides after the initial fork setup at my local shop, but it seems like I am only using about half or maybe a little bit more than half of the fork's travel in the fully open setting. Should I reduce the air pressure in the fork or just go with it since I haven't had any trouble?

Quick edit: bike is a '17 Comp with the Manitou Machete fork.


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## yaiQuem (Nov 1, 2016)

*Chain suck eats frame*

Dear fellow Fuse riders,

I am new to the forum and am not to handy with picture uploads.
I have had my fuse comp for a week now, awesome machine!
I have taken it on 3 tours in the first week but on the last ride a disaster struck me and i was wondering if any of you have experienced this.

It was a damp and sandy ride through a forest in the east of the Netherlands. After an hour or so the chain stuck (sucked) to the front ring. This elevated the chain so that it would sit on the lower of the two 'diamond' chainstays. The chain would keep turning and pedaling was hardly any harder than normal. The result is that the chain started scraping paint and aluminium(!) from the chainstay...
The chain kept jumping up on top of the lower diamond stay every 30 seconds or so, forcing me to pedal backwards a little to get it off.

Luckily i had some ducttape in my backpack. I managed to minimize the damage by taping several pieces over the stay before it got any worse.

Damage pics: 
Specialized Fuse Comp Drivetrain Trouble - Album on Imgur

Ofcourse sand is bad for a chains flexibility, but the result of this chainsuck goes behond acceptable imho.

Has any of you had this problem? I will contact specialized tomorrow for warranty but I was wondering if this occured more often.

The bike is fully stock and i have the comp edition 10spd. The bike is a week old and brand new.


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

I would guess all that sand is getting wedged between chain and chain ring and the derailleur doesn't have enough tension to pull the chain free. Maybe a narrower chain ring??


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## jbowland (May 7, 2004)

My guess is a link in the chain got bent during the first time it got jammed. Now every so often the bent link or links get in the correct position and bind up on the chain ring and then gets pulled around and jammed up into the chain stay again. Sand is not good for drive train health.


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## yaiQuem (Nov 1, 2016)

I took off the chain today and checked if any of the links had a problem rotating.
But all links perfectly rotate without effort.

I contacted two specialized dealers in Amsterdam today, they wouldn't take the bike in for warranty because they did not sell the bike. The shop I bought it from is 200km away, but had a 33% discount on the model...
Specialized won't do anything except for asking me to go to a dealer to sort it out through them.

In Holland we have a saying: "Goedkoop is duurkoop." Translated: "Buying cheap will eventually cost you more."
I guess that's what I get for dealhunting 

The bike came with a tiny tiny bit of play/left-right wiggle in the dropperpost and a defective reartube valve. I didn't bother with that because of the good deal I got on it. But I will mention it now I am going through the warranty process anyway.

Still a great bike, just an unfortunate individual sample!


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

i had no issue here in the US with a warranty issue for my dropper post. I bought the bike at a store in the mountains and took it to another dealer in Denver and I only had to provide proof of purchase. they gave me an upgraded dropper that i installed myself.


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## fishywishy (Feb 23, 2008)

i would love a fuse but ive heard problems with the hubs/bb/headset and tubeless wheels. has these been fixed on the 2017's?


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

The current 2016 dealer price is cheap enough that it's worth buying a base model and just upgrading everything IMO


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

I bought mine just for the frame and rims really. Love the bike despite some shoddy components

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## Crave SL (Apr 12, 2016)

Has Anyone put a rigid fork on a fuse?


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Crave SL said:


> Has Anyone put a rigid fork on a fuse?


Thats a sweet idea. Not sure how long it would need to be. Or if anyone makes a plus fork that long

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## Albatross (Apr 28, 2016)

Crave SL said:


> Has Anyone put a rigid fork on a fuse?


just ordered a Carver trail 490 fork.....REALLY looking forward to putting it on my Fuse. It's suspension corrected up to 120mm. Perfect!


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## yaiQuem (Nov 1, 2016)

So i contactected Specialized and my dealer, who also spoke to SRAM. They said the chainsuck is probably caused by a to greasy drivetrain. According to them it happens to some brand new bikes that the chain is a bit to greasy, although they say this is an extreme example...

I cleaned the whole drivetrain thoroughly and added Squirt wax as lube. Beachriders have had good luck with squirt and sand. Lets hope that fizes the issue!

The little bit play in the dropperpost is normal according to Specialized.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

yaiQuem said:


> So i contactected Specialized and my dealer, who also spoke to SRAM. They said the chainsuck is probably caused by a to greasy drivetrain. According to them it happens to some brand new bikes that the chain is a bit to greasy, although they say this is an extreme example...
> 
> I cleaned the whole drivetrain thoroughly and added Squirt wax as lube. Beachriders have had good luck with squirt and sand. Lets hope that fizes the issue!
> 
> The little bit play in the dropperpost is normal according to Specialized.


I rarely ride on the beach, but ride next to it when road biking, so there's sand from wind and also the ground. My mtb trails are very very dry and dusty. Squirt wax lube is the best I've used out of about ten I've tried.

Just make sure to follow instructions- clan chain thoroughly with a rag. Then I put it on until I can see it gush out from between the pins and rollers when it turns around the cog. I will take off some excess if I've done too much.
Let it dry for twenty minutes. Then wipe until basically nothing is coming off the chain.

I hope it works for you!


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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

My brakes are feeling a little spongy lately so I bought a tektro bleed kit that trp has on their site. The silver nib that is supposed to screw into the reservoir does t fit anyone have a solution to this or know the right part?


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## Darthlindz (Apr 25, 2015)

Hello everyone, I picked up a fuse pro and I'm going tubeless. How many oz of sealant should I used? Use to setting up tubeless for my cross bike so the bigger tires are throwing me off.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Darthlindz said:


> Hello everyone, I picked up a fuse pro and I'm going tubeless. How many oz of sealant should I used? Use to setting up tubeless for my cross bike so the bigger tires are throwing me off.


Put in a few ounces. Different tires and set ups will require more or less. Once a month give your wheel the 'stans shake', and if you can't hear some sloshing, then you need to add more.


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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

Darthlindz said:


> Hello everyone, I picked up a fuse pro and I'm going tubeless. How many oz of sealant should I used? Use to setting up tubeless for my cross bike so the bigger tires are throwing me off.


Used 4oz each.

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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Darthlindz said:


> Hello everyone, I picked up a fuse pro and I'm going tubeless. How many oz of sealant should I used? Use to setting up tubeless for my cross bike so the bigger tires are throwing me off.


I used 6 ounces of Orange Seal on my PC 3.0s, based solely on the recommendation from a professionalish youtube video. That worked, and it didn't seem like too much, particularly given the tendency of the tires to weep sealant.

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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

i have noticed my rear tire seems to leak sealant through the side walls. is this something i need to worry about or let it ride?


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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

rock-rod said:


> i have noticed my rear tire seems to like sealant through the side walls. is this something i need to worry about or let it ride?


I had that problem with stans I have switched to orange seal and haven't noticed it. I did take a rag and wipe the whole inside of the tire with orange seal I had read about doing that but I don't remember where.

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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

After I switched to Orange Seal, it leaked for a little bit but then stopped. The Stan's never stopped weeping.

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## 4Buxton (Nov 13, 2016)

*Rear chainring from 11-10??*

Ok I have a 2017 Fuze Comp. Comes with a 28 tooth front chainring 11-42 rear. I wanted to upgrade to a 32. Have any of you done this? Looks like there may not be enough room with out spacers. And if spacers are used wouldn't that add stress to the chain?
I ride in Richmond VA. 1 hour drive to the mountains (28) is needed. 
1 hour drive to Williamsburg (32) would be nice. Williamsburg is flat compared to Charlottesville. I run my dog and like to push him on the flats. I would keep the 28 and swap them out depending on which direction I head.

My other option would be to charge the rear chainring from 11-10? Can this be done?


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

32 should fit. My 32t barely clears

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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

do you know which driver you have for the rear hub? if it's an XD from SRAM then you could go to a 10t cassette. At any rate the 32t chain ring should fit fine but you will likely need to add some chain links.


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## Darthlindz (Apr 25, 2015)

Thanks for the help guys, went with 6 oz of sealant. The stock rim tape of the rovals isn't the greatest. Had it leak at the valve stem and had to crank the bolt down to stop the leak. Besides all that had my first major ride on the fuse and am very happy with it. KOM couple of my local downhills, the bike just rips!


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## FOMZ (Oct 31, 2016)

Still have this? Are the Enve bars worth it?


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## FOMZ (Oct 31, 2016)

Paranoid_Android said:


> Here's a few more photos of my Fuse Expert. I've converted the wheels to tubeless with Stan's valves/fluid (very happy the rims came pre-taped!), added Shimano Saint M820 brakes with 203mm/180mm IceTech rotors, super wide Enve carbon riser bar, 70mm Syntace Megaforce 2 stem, Ergon GE1 grips, RaceFace crank boots, XTR Race pedals, Specialized IR Command Post with the lever from a KS LEV, Thomson seatpost clamp, Specialized SWAT Zee-cage with tool, Specialised Top Cap Chain Tool, Titanium hardware throughout. Regreased and properly tensioned the rear wheel bearings which came so tight they wouldn't turn at all.


Are the Enve bars worth it?


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## Darthlindz (Apr 25, 2015)

Question for those with the pro model, do your sram 5 brakes get stiff after a long downhill where the brakes get hot? It happend to me yesterday and a buddy that i was riding with works at sram. He said that there might be a recall on them. Has anyone else have or had this problem?


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## hgravez (Jul 15, 2008)

I've got a 2017 expert model with Sram DB3 brakes and they do exactly this. In fact, this happens even without an extended downhill. Its more like the rear brake actually briefly locks up. Only once has it done so in such a dramatic way as to endanger me.


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## hgravez (Jul 15, 2008)

This happens on F and R for basically all of my bikes (3) with very different tires. Nothing to be worried about. To me, it's just an indication that the sealant is getting where it needs to - filling the little pores of the sidewalls. But, I could be wrong...


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

Darthlindz said:


> Question for those with the pro model, do your sram 5 brakes get stiff after a long downhill where the brakes get hot? It happend to me yesterday and a buddy that i was riding with works at sram. He said that there might be a recall on them. Has anyone else have or had this problem?


Not sure if this applies to the Sram 5 brakes, but I have a newer set of the SRAM Guide RS brakes and the levers do not retract on hot days, this can result in the brake locking up. I searched online and this seems to be a problem with the SRAM brakes. People are reporting returning them under warranty but I am not sure if the ones they are sending out will also eventually fail. Mine locked up twice on one hot weekend, ripped them off and put on Shimano, waiting to return them never to buy again.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

JillRide45 said:


> Not sure if this applies to the Sram 5 brakes, but I have a newer set of the SRAM Guide RS brakes and the levers do not retract on hot days, this can result in the brake locking up. I searched online and this seems to be a problem with the SRAM brakes. People are reporting returning them under warranty but I am not sure if the ones they are sending out will also eventually fail. Mine locked up twice on one hot weekend, ripped them off and put on Shimano, waiting to return them never to buy again.


I'm in the same boat. Only the front went, but it was any day over 80 degrees. That's about 250 days a year here... So not good.

Pulled my 4 year old xt brake off the spare bike and it weeks exactly like it has since day one.

Sorry sram, you still haven't caught up.


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## rijndael (Sep 19, 2016)

JillRide45 said:


> Not sure if this applies to the Sram 5 brakes


It does. Mine would lock up if I left the bike in the sun. SRAM warrantied them for a set of Guide RS brakes.


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## Osco (Apr 4, 2013)

Across three seasons now I keep seeing first hand the same thing.
Sram brakes giving riders grief. Not that often but I can remember five different times on different bikes they leaked at the bars and or locked up. 
I know of riders having bad luck rebuilding them. Replacement seems the only sure cure.

I don't recall one single case of any Shimano brake causing a problem...


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## BCsaltchucker (Jan 16, 2014)

Loving these Fuse comps. Wife brought her old Safire down to the desert, but disliked it so much, she ran out and bought a Fuse comp for herself the first day of the trip (she also has a new Speciaized Rhyme 6Fattie)






I also wish I had XT brakes on this bike, though in the desert the TRPs are adequate. Ripped off the Sram Level brakes from my new FS plus bike and put new M785 XT 180mm recently - immensely better.


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## FOMZ (Oct 31, 2016)

*2.8 wide tires*

Curious as to whether anyone has tried 2.8s with the stock scraper wheels.

Thinking about doing this to drop some weight but still keep some of the characteristics of the wider tire.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Was just contemplating as to if I wanted to install a 140mm air assembly in my Fox Factory Float 34 untill I rode it again with current 150mm installed.Just perfect overall as is,seems to be a good fit a tad slacker HA with no consquence even on steepest tech climbs and confidence inspiring on steepest desents,improved BB clearence too.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

techfersure said:


> Was just contemplating as to if I wanted to install a 140mm air assembly in my Fox Factory Float 34 untill I rode it again with current 150mm installed.Just perfect overall as is,seems to be a good fit a tad slacker HA with no consquence even on steepest tech climbs and confidence inspiring on steepest desents,improved BB clearence too.


Same here with the 150mm pike. It's a perfect height and the slightly slacker head angle is great for decents.


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## hgravez (Jul 15, 2008)

Update on brakes: the shop warrantied the SRAM DB3's due to the problems described above. I bought some new XTs as I'm tired of messing around with bad Avid brakes.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

hgravez said:


> I bought some new XTs as I'm tired of messing around with bad Avid brakes.


Yup, the m8000s are killer.


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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

Looking to replace the stock bb on a 2016 fuse comp not sure which I need from this page http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/pf30/pf30-bottom-brackets.html . Any help would be appreciated. Also can anyone suggest a new headset might replace that also.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rijndael (Sep 19, 2016)

If I were replacing the BB in my Fuse, I'd get angular contact bearings.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

I am using a race face pf30 bottom bracket. It's as easy as using a hammer and chisel to knock the stock one out and then a piece of all thread, some nuts and fender washers and squeeze the new one in. No creaks or nothing. I agree though the angular contact bearings are a great upgrade and the threaded assembly will make the install even easier assuming you have the correct tool to turn the cups.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

mic360 said:


> Looking to replace the stock bb on a 2016 fuse comp not sure which I need from this page Wheels Manufacturing PF30 Bottom Brackets .


The BB is a PF30


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## bataleon (Jun 28, 2015)

Darthlindz said:


> Question for those with the pro model, do your sram 5 brakes get stiff after a long downhill where the brakes get hot? It happend to me yesterday and a buddy that i was riding with works at sram. He said that there might be a recall on them. Has anyone else have or had this problem?


I left my Stache leaning against the garage door in the sun for about 15 minutes. When I pulled the DB5 levers they wouldn't return to their normal position. They did eventually, but very slowly. Master cylinder expanding in the heat perhaps? Who knows. I sent them back to SRAM through a Trek dealer.

SRAM replaced them with some Guide R levers (which was nice of them). I sold them on eBay and bought some XT M8000s. The issues that plagued some of the early M8000s (2015, irregular bite-point) are long gone. The XT's are lovely (and mineral oil is so much nicer to work with than dot fluid).


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## Fniner (Apr 21, 2016)

EDIT: Didn't realize how old the post I responded to was. 

Delete, if possible.


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## rijndael (Sep 19, 2016)

Does anyone know the rim weight of the Roval 38mm rim that came on a 2016 Pro?

I'm going to replace the rear hub. If it's a boat anchor of a rim, I'll just plan to replace the rim too.


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## beneastgate (Mar 21, 2016)

Darthlindz said:


> Question for those with the pro model, do your sram 5 brakes get stiff after a long downhill where the brakes get hot? It happend to me yesterday and a buddy that i was riding with works at sram. He said that there might be a recall on them. Has anyone else have or had this problem?


Dropped my pro into the shop last week as they advised sram were warrantying any DB5s with this issue. Sounded like it was something to do with the seal in the brake lever piston. Still waiting on the brakes to come back cause sram was closed down over the new year period.


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## Crave SL (Apr 12, 2016)

Albatross said:


> just ordered a Carver trail 490 fork.....REALLY looking forward to putting it on my Fuse. It's suspension corrected up to 120mm. Perfect!


Any pics? Hows it working?


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## 4Buxton (Nov 13, 2016)

I have 2017 Fuze Comp black XL and wanted to upgrade the 28tooth 76 BCD narrow wide chainring to a 32 tooth. I have looked everywhere for one and have had a couple bike shops look around and can't find one to mount on my factory cranks. I would also consider a oval 30. At this time I don't want to change the crank/bottom bracket out.


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## rebnah (Mar 8, 2015)

Got my new Fuse Comp yesterday afternoon and took it out today to get it dirty.
Got to say for the money it's a great bike.
My other bike is a 2017 Specialized Sirrus X1 that i take out in the dry.


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## NEmtber (Jun 28, 2016)

With all the issues you all seem to be having, would you recommend staying clear of the 2016 6Fatties? I am in the market for one and found a carry over on clearance and was about to pick it up this week but found this thread and have some serious doubts now....any input from owners? It is an expert model if that matters (seems like hubs and BB are the issue on all levels...).

Thanks!


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

NEmtber said:


> With all the issues you all seem to be having, would you recommend staying clear of the 2016 6Fatties? I am in the market for one and found a carry over on clearance and was about to pick it up this week but found this thread and have some serious doubts now....any input from owners? It is an expert model if that matters (seems like hubs and BB are the issue on all levels...).
> 
> Thanks!


I had a 2016 Pro Fuse and a 2016 Carbon Comp 6Fattie Stumpy, no problems at all. Rode the Stumpy more than any other bike I have every owned. I did grease the headset once. Tires weeped a little but never affected air pressure so just left them and eventually stopped. At about 950 grams those original Purgatory tires were amazing. Have fun!


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

NEmtber said:


> With all the issues you all seem to be having, would you recommend staying clear of the 2016 6Fatties? I am in the market for one and found a carry over on clearance and was about to pick it up this week but found this thread and have some serious doubts now....any input from owners? It is an expert model if that matters (seems like hubs and BB are the issue on all levels...).
> 
> Thanks!


I'd just get the cheapest one I could and upgrade everything with the savings. Fun bike though.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

NEmtber said:


> With all the issues you all seem to be having, would you recommend staying clear of the 2016 6Fatties? I am in the market for one and found a carry over on clearance and was about to pick it up this week but found this thread and have some serious doubts now....any input from owners? It is an expert model if that matters (seems like hubs and BB are the issue on all levels...).
> 
> Thanks!


I love my Expert. It seems to be holding up fairly well. I had a Comp and promptly sold it.


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## Hyder88 (Mar 29, 2016)

NEmtber said:


> With all the issues you all seem to be having, would you recommend staying clear of the 2016 6Fatties? I am in the market for one and found a carry over on clearance and was about to pick it up this week but found this thread and have some serious doubts now....any input from owners? It is an expert model if that matters (seems like hubs and BB are the issue on all levels...).
> 
> Thanks!


I have the comp, I ride and abuse the crap out of it. I paid 999.00 on clearance, heck for that price buy it, ride it and if something does go wrong, Specialized has a solid 1 year warranty. If nothing goes wrong, you have a very solid bike. If something does go wrong you can get badass wheels and some other nice upgrades for the price of a stock bike. I took a chance on it an I am loving the bike..


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## NEmtber (Jun 28, 2016)

Hyder88 said:


> I have the comp, I ride and abuse the crap out of it. I paid 999.00 on clearance, heck for that price buy it, ride it and if something does go wrong, Specialized has a solid 1 year warranty. If nothing goes wrong, you have a very solid bike. If something does go wrong you can get badass wheels and some other nice upgrades for the price of a stock bike. I took a chance on it an I am loving the bike..


Looks like I can get a Comp for the price you paid, or about 400 more for an expert. You think the Comp is the better bet?



Dirt Road said:


> View attachment 1114405
> 
> 
> I love my Expert. It seems to be holding up fairly well. I had a Comp and promptly sold it.


What made you upgrade from the Comp to the Expert? Looks like they have the same hubs, changes are shifters, brakes (still avid), and fork. Worthy of the $400 difference?


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Just getting away from the suntour was a huge confidence boost. Nobody brags about a manitou but it's a hell of a lot more burlier. 34mm stanchions. Upgraded drivetrain with a clutch derailer. The brakes on the comp seemed a little better tho. SRAM brakes kinda suck. Squealing and engagement issues. I bought my expert used, and loved it after 1 ride. I'm not one to throw money at upgrades. If I were I'd have kept the comp.


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## Hyder88 (Mar 29, 2016)

Comp or expert your choice, I have ridden the crap out of the comp and have not had one issue. I like to upgrade when stuff breaks, I also like what I like... With that said Expert is a solid choice but you are getting what comes on the bike. I will ride the comp until stuff breaks then put what I want on it.. Probably didn't answer your question, I already know I will be changing out parts so no need to pay more for a bike I will change down then road anyway.

All I know is for an extra 400.00 I could do some nice things with the bike that would not come on the expert. New wheels... SLX brakes with a new Raceface crank ect... all kinds of good combos if you have an extra 400.00 and know your way around the internet..

Heck I just saw a boost Pike 27.5+for 300.00 new in box a few days ago on CL. You can always find great stuff if you are looking...


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I'd much rather have the Manitou fork than the Suntour. It's stiffer, much more adjustable, and more reliable. That's worth the $400 alone. Add-in the drivetrain, and the Expert is a deal. You can upgrade brakes much more cheaply than drivetrains or forks, and I'm not sure the TRPs are much of an improvement over the DB3s.


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## NEmtber (Jun 28, 2016)

Well now another wrench in the mix. 

The new 2017s are shipping with 1x11 drivetrains (even on comp model) and the comp model comes with a Manitou Machete fork instead of the Suntour. That makes decisions harder upgrading to 1x11 from 1x10 isn't a cheap upgrade (and questionable return) but would be nice to start with 1x11 right from the start, damnit Specialized!


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## 4Buxton (Nov 13, 2016)

*2017 Fuze comp chainring*

I have a 2017 Fuze comp and love it. Have ridden many 12-18 mile rides since October. I need help finding a 32 tooth chain ring. When I ride around Williamsburg and Virginia Beach there not many hills and I find myself spinning out. The 28 work ok when I go to the Blue ridge mountains though. I have looked everywhere for a 32 tooth 76 BCD chainring and can't find one. The sram XX1 does not work. Would also consider a 30 tooth oval if that is available. 
I will be posting some videos soon if anyone is interested?


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## Darthlindz (Apr 25, 2015)

Sram didn't have a recall out, but i did get a rebuild kit out of the deal


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I was wondering if the xx1 ring was compatible or not. Nice to know!


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## FOMZ (Oct 31, 2016)

I believe I have that ring on my 2016 expert with stock stout crank.


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## chrisyews (Jun 29, 2016)

The XX1 will fit although it's tight. The bolts with the Stout crank will not!!! They thread in and almost feel like they fit but they are a fraction smaller, if you use them you will strip them. Personally I would juke the stout and get a Raceface Turbine and BB or Sram. You put lace on a pig it's just a fancy pig. When I bought my 2016 Fuse the dealer said "no problem you can get any chain ring you want" BS Specialized did not even have a spare 30t if you bent one. Not impressed with the company love the bike. New crank, new hubs, new tires on a $2100 bike. Not because they were wore out because they were junk.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I hear you on that. I took off the boat anchor stout cranks and put on carbon xx1 cranks and a DM ring. Much easier to change ring sizes that way and drops a nice amount of weight.


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## OldManBiker (Nov 5, 2016)

First of all, let me say how much I LOVE this particular thread! I'm a little bit biased towards it. I happen to be a part of the Fuse Comp 6Fattie family.

I like most mountain bikers have/has been toying with the idea of buying the new Carbon version of my bike. And then I rode a 2017 FSR Stumpjumper Expert Carbon 6Fattie and well....WOW. The freakin' Lamborghini of Specialized bikes. Problem is, I'm old school and have never rode anything but hardtails so this FS stuff and the money they want for it just didnt match up for me. Any at all. Maybe one day when I grow up (53 now) and my body begins telling me I need a softer, kinder and gentler bike I will see about a FS at that time. With my 3" tires on my 6Fattie it does a darn good job absorbing just about 90% of what I roll over quite easily.

I've decided to keep Sally and do occasional upgrades to her. Everywhere I go I get awesome compliments on her, she rides and handles magically, we share a couple of great crashes together, and she's flat out gorgeous! Why get another bike to eventually get rid of her??

I have some new SRAM Guide R, hydraulic disc front and rear brakes on order to make a small subtle upgrade in that area. I had initially asked them to order in a RockShox Pike RC 27.5+ front fork to change out these Suntour Raidon I currently have. But over the past few days I saw some "not so good" reports over in the Shocks Forum on the Pike's. http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/i-absolutely-hate-my-pike-what-my-alternatives-1027764.html

So now I am at a quandary WHAT kind of Fork to get now that I can depend on. Since I don't have to do anything at this moment I think I am going to take my LBS's suggestion and possibly doing the Roval carbon wheels front and back.

I'll be perfectly honest here about the Fork decision. I know enough about bike parts and/or components to get myself in trouble however, I suppose I don't spend as much time in the saddle as I'd like to KNOW or understand what I should or could expect with a newer, better Fork and how that translates for me out on a trail...? Anyone...?

Here's my sweet Sally as is for now.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

If you look long enough, you'll find negative reviews for every component. I had a Pike on my last bike and it was a great fork. Very plush and easy to set up. I have a current Fox34 w/ FIT4 damper. It is great too. It's hard to go wrong with any nice fork right now. To keep it simple, just grab a Rockshox Pike, Yari, or a Fox34. Any of those will be a HUGE upgrade over that Suntour fork. 

That suntour felt like a wet noodle just in the parking lot and like it had water in the damper since it blew thru the stroke just doing a bunny hop. The stock Manitou was slightly better, but still harsh off the top. The above mentioned options can be dialed to be supple off the top (in conjunction with the tires) while still ramping up (various air tokens) so you don't bounce off the fork stop. 

The other major thing is fork flex. The cheaper forks just flex a lot more. It depends on how you ride as to how much that matters. If you are trying to push for 10/10s, then you may find the stocker moves around on you and doesn't stay planted vs a stiffer fork that will track better. 

TLR...just buy any new fork that isn't a basement bargain special.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The Pike is an an amazing fork and most riders out there love it. I'm running a 140 Pike on my Fuse and I love it. It just takes time to get it dialed in just right. 
Liek posted above, there are a ton of great forks and they all have their own strengths and weaknesses. Dont over think it, just pickup whatever fork you can find a good deal on and enjoy!


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

i have a 150 pike on my Fuse. it totally changed the bike in a very good way. I also ditched the stout cranks and switched to RC turbine. It's much easier to change out the chain ring now.


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## azzadee (Jun 6, 2016)

So my first issue with the Fuse expert has come up and the BB bearings were replaced. That was a given after reading the thread of a while

Next thing is anyone have issues with a lack of stopping power with the db3 brakeset? I am thinking an upgrade but unsure. What have people chucked on as replacements?

Last thing with the raceface turbine crankset is it just the normal size or is a specific boost set needed? thanks in advance


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

I've got the '16 Expert- love the bike.
Had to change the bars and saddle right off, Easton EC70 riser and WTB Volt.

The [cheap junk] dropper quit during the summer, my dealer swapped it for a external route X-fusion. Nice post, but external? And you know, I just assumed the stock dropper would be a Command Post. 
About that time, the BB was creaking. They say I should clean and lube more often if I'm taking it out in the winter, I say if you grease it, you shouldn't have much trouble. Whatever- I replaced the BB with a Wheels Ceramic, 3 o-ring seals and easily serviced. 
Beyond that, this thing is the bomb. Climbs like mad, corners confidently, and rolls through the loose stuff. It lands softer than my Fox Float Stumpjumper. 
I rented a Trek Anthem in Phoenix, love the suspension, but I missed my contact patch. I run about 14psi for most trails. 
This has become my go-to machine. I've got that 2004 SJ FSR that I just upgraded to SLX 2x10, built wheels for the swap to disc, it's been my ride for a few years- it's nimble...
But the Fuse feels more planted, rolls over obstacles, and as I said- it lands softer. 
I did ride the SJ today because the trails are iced up and I've got 26" studded tires, but I just think- where are the 27.5 x 3" studs? That would be awesome.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

I found the dropper pretty reliable. I thought by now would have had to replace but after a season of hard use still going strong.I have two Command Post Ircc and have not been as reliable both had a short service time and cold weather can effect performance don't me get me wrong love them overall for the setback and multiple settings but the Tranzx has impressed me,cold weather performance is excellent too.


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

I just picked up a 2016 Fuse pro XXL to compliment my 2016 stumpjumper 29. I had the bike shop fix up the brakes to match those on the sj so I can swap wheels back and forth between the bikes. I can fit a 29 x 2.6 Nobby Nic on the front and back of both bikes. It's awesome!


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

TNTall.....are your NN 29 x 2.6 tires on the stock rims of your STJ 29er? Is this the FS STJ? How much clearance and which front fork do you have?

Sorry for all the questions, but I have the Fuse and was planning on buying a FS STJ 29er (had a STJ for years and it was a great bike).

Thanks


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## rijndael (Sep 19, 2016)

I ran my 29x2.6 on a 23mm XM401 rim. They fit fine under the Reba RC3 boost fork on my Fuse Pro. 

The first thing that will rub the 2.6NN is the derailleur cable on the right chainstay, but there's plenty of room.


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

rushman3 said:


> TNTall.....are your NN 29 x 2.6 tires on the stock rims of your STJ 29er? Is this the FS STJ? How much clearance and which front fork do you have?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions, but I have the Fuse and was planning on buying a FS STJ 29er (had a STJ for years and it was a great bike).
> 
> Thanks


My SJ is a FSR comp 29 model with Roval 29mm rims and Revelation fork. There is a ton of clearance on the front of both bikes. The SJ rear has room to spare too. The Fuse rear is close with the 29 x 2.6, but I don't think it will rub.


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## Legoman (Apr 7, 2014)

For all the people that have put one of the absolute black ovals on. What kind of clearance do you have on the chainstay? Seems pretty tight with just the 28T one it comes with.

Looking to order mine next week. Getting pretty pumped. This will be my first REAL hardtail since my dept store bike. I love my stumpy fsr, but wanna try a hardtail with flat pedals on. I jumped right to the FS bikes with SPD clips pretty much right away. Want to try and build a little on my base skills and see if I can be a little better of a rider.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

32t Absolute black on mine,clearance no prob.


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## fitz-roy (Mar 3, 2016)

Just wanted to share my Fuse experience so far.

As others have noted on the 2016 comp or any low end model, the fork, brakes and stout hub are absolute junk! Replaced the fork with a 150mm FSR 6fattie FOX 34, slapped on some used Guide brakes and re-laced the wheel with a Sram 900 hub. Things are sweet now!

I've also been testing out the snow capability of the 6fattie this winter and its been real fun. Can handle a few inches of fresh pow with the right tire pressure. Recently summited a local mountain riding up the biking/hiking trails which were semi packed. Had a beer at the top and took the fun way down one of the ski trails :thumbsup:


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Sounds like what I did. 
I bought a comp, sold all the parts to a guy building up a "plus" adventure bike and then built up the frame my way:
140mm Pike
Guide RS brakes
XX1 drivetrain
Enve handlebars
Roval 38 wheels (off pro model) with Maxxis 2.8 tires.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

fitz-roy said:


> Just wanted to share my Fuse experience so far.
> 
> As others have noted on the 2016 comp or any low end model, the fork, brakes and stout hub are absolute junk! Replaced the fork with a 150mm FSR 6fattie FOX 34, slapped on some used Guide brakes and re-laced the wheel with a Sram 900 hub. Things are sweet now!
> 
> ...


Very nice! You can buy these bikes ridiculously cheap used and upgrade.Fox Factory 34 150mm love it at this travel,Hope pro 4 rear hub,RF Deus cranks with 32t AB oval,XT 11-40 cassette,Formula The One brakes and Pivot carbon car. Have just under 1600.00 in it,cheapest bike I've owned in some time and some of the most fun to ride too.At 60 years old being back on a hard tail again is a blast!


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## OldManBiker (Nov 5, 2016)

I can't help but laugh at all us Fuse 6Fattie owners and this infectious desire to upgrade our baby's to handle even better than they did as it rolled out of the LBS stocked! I have a small confession as I was CLOSE to breaking out the wallet for a new FSR Fuse Expert Carbon 6Fattie. It was and wasn't about the $$ per se as we all know the special sacrifices we make to ride. But I've never owned or ridden FS bikes as I prefer HT hands down, and for the carbon frame I just couldn't justify it. It made me really look long and hard and what I wanted to do next. And then a light bulb went off! Upgrade my Fuse Plus how I want the way I want.

It's at my LBS right now getting the Guide RS brakes put on. I have on order Roval Traverse SL carbon wheels which I cannot WAIT to get in! I'm a little indecisive on a front fork to upgrade to. I'd love to get the RockShox Pike RC 120mm travel fork but, over in the Shocks group here there is one thread about them that is well, a little bit alarming to me before forking out $1500 on some. I'm not leaning towards the Fox 32 or Fox 34 fork. Not too familiar with either and have some research to do on them.

Here's where I'd like some suggestions Gents. It comes stocked with the Stout XC 30T crankset. As we all know these baby's climb hills like a billy goat but, at 53yrs old I'm thinking of going to a 28T chainring. Any recommendations/suggestions on a particular brand, and the advantages over similar brands?


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Pikes 27.5+ forks can be had for 800-900 range online and you always go with Rock Shox Yari 27.5+ fork for around $600. Check pricing online (google is your friend).All these online sites have free shipping.


Pass on the 32 size forks, you want to upgrade your bike.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

28t is a tad under geared to much spin and kills efficiency,go minimal 30t worth growing into better yet 32t with 11-46 or even 10-50 as much gear you will need to take any trail on.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The Pike is the way to go and I'd even take a Yari over a Fox 34. I'm not a fan of Fox stuff.

For cranks, I'd recommend snagging one of the deals on Nashbar. They are running a 30% off plus free shipping deal. 
You can get XO carbon cranks for $219, which is $154 after the discount. Add a direct mount ring in the size you want and you'll drop nearly 600g from the stock boat anchor cranks. 
SRAM XO BB30 42/28T Crankset w/ Bottom Bracket
You can save even more money going with the x1400 aluminum cranks ($112) and a direct mount ring.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

rushman3 said:


> Pikes 27.5+ forks can be had for 800-900 range online and you always go with Rock Shox Yari 27.5+ fork for around $600. Check pricing online (google is your friend).All these online sites have free shipping.
> 
> Pass on the 32 size forks, you want to upgrade your bike.


Check Pinkbike out picked up a 2016 Fox Factory 34 6fattie take off early last year for 400.00.But been averaging around 500.00,on ebay too.


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## jkad (Dec 29, 2005)

*crank set*

hey all, feeling your love for the Fuse!! quick question and forgive me if its been covered.. I'm looking to up grade the crank. want to stay with the 1x 30t is fine any suggestions? would like to stay at or around $150 many thanks


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

nashbar keeps running 20-30% off sales. The SRAM X1 1400 is currently $160, but I'm sure they will have another deal any day now. Seems to pop up every few days. 
With the 1400 you can remove the spider and put a direct mount 30t which will save even more weight. 
SRAM X1 1400 BB30 32T 11-Speed Crankset
The 30% sale ended yesterday, or you could have gotten the cranks for $112! 
Pinkbike is another great spot to look.


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## toubai (Sep 18, 2008)

I dropped a line to Wolf Tooth Components a few weeks ago, and they told me that they'll propose a 76 BCD compatible chainring in the next couple of months.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I'm not even sure it's worth it for them to make a ring that would fit the stout crank pattern. Wolf Tooth rings run $60-$100, and its probably better use of your money to just replace the stout Crankset. The Stout crankset is insanely heavy, the Q factor is much wider than it needs to be and the chainline with it isn't the greatest. I think they did that to ensure plenty of heal and tire clears with the big tires and boost rearend, but it isnt really necessary.


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## roofus (Apr 2, 2007)

This is my Upgraded FUSE. Enve bars, FSA Carbon Post, Tubeless Maxxis Ikon and Rekon, Carbon Carver Fork. 26# even with pedals and cages.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Holy caw, I love that color. Sweet bike rufus!


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## Dorf411 (Jan 21, 2016)

roofus, that is nice. I want to get a carbon fork and to ditch my dropper as well. Is that still stock crankset and hubs?


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## OldManBiker (Nov 5, 2016)

Man, just when I think I've seen the prettiest bike here comes another! Rufus that bike rocks dude! What color do you call that, and did your bike come with that paint stock? 

Here in the southeast I've YET to see a solid fork like that. No suspension. Nothing. I have to ask Rufus....what kind of trails do you ride on with that? 

I ordered my 28T chainring today so in a couple of days I'll see how this badboy climbs versus my 30T. From what I am being told I will be saving approx 1 1/2" full diameter of pedaling thus, helping my old 53yr old body up hills a tad better! Here's hoping!

My Roval Traverse carbon wheels will be in and put on tomorrow so you guys can imagine how stoked I am to see my baby tomorrow afternoon! I'll take some pics to add later. I'm gonna wear her out Saturday for sure! It's rained almost everyday and haven't ridden since last Thursday and I'm about delirious! Cabin fever!


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## roofus (Apr 2, 2007)

Yes its stock crankset, and wheelset. I will upgrade wheelset when these blowup. The cankset is solid. It is heavy but the crank spins effortlessly, so I'm keeping it!


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## roofus (Apr 2, 2007)

Thanks Bro.


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## roofus (Apr 2, 2007)

Yes it is stock color, HOWEVER this is the Base model frame (Gloss Light Blue)and is completely different from higher up models. It is A1 alloy not M, and does not have split chainstay, and chainring clearance. I live in North Ga. and ride everything here, Tenn., Fla. and N.C. The bike stock weighs 33# and after mods mine is 26# even with pedals and cages. The Fork is from Carver. Disclaimer: I do work at a Bicycle Shop so I cannot say what I have in it.


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## roofus (Apr 2, 2007)

Another guy that works here also has a Fuse. I'll post pics of his bike. TOTALLY different!?!


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## roofus (Apr 2, 2007)

Here is my buddy's Fuse.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

Regarding the crankset, a race face cinch works very well and is super easy to install and opens the door to whatever size/design chain ring you want to run. It's also a 5 minute job to swap out a chain ring.


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

OldManBiker, what chain ring did you order. old fashioned winter has kept me off the bike too long and i will need a bit of help this spring. Thanks, MikeB


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## Doodasi (Feb 12, 2017)

New to this site. Sold all my motorcycles, and got into biking a couple years ago. Just got a fuse comp a couple months back. Nicest bike I have ever owned. Since I have never owned any other bicycle other than pritty much rolling junk, I would not know the difference between this bike, and the same one that is somehow better. However being 6'2" with a 35" inseam, I got an XL. It feels tall, and stretched out enough, but the bars seem a little low for me. The neck is whacked off so short, I cannot move the stem up, and the stem is really short. Any suggestions on how to move the bars up at least an inch? Angle/length stem perhaps? Might be enough to keep a little more pressure off my hands. Seat is a little hard for my boney arse too. Maybe my arse bones need conditioning like what martial artists do by whacking bamboo on their shins, I don't know. One more thing. Being a master auto tech, and a complete old school *******, there is a trick I did to my tires when I went tubless (or tyres for all you aussie euro types). We do this to trucks we leave out in the woods to help keep them from getting bead leaks so we don't go out on a hunt, and find our tires went flat. Take a rag, and moisten it with DOT3 brake fluid. Wipe it on the inside bottom portion of the bead that contacts the rim. It softens and swells that portion of the rubber to make a better seal. There is not much rubber on a bike tire, but I'm hoping it does not tear off when I ever dismount the tire. We will see. So far, I only had to air them up once after the first week. I used stans too.


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## Fairbanks007 (Sep 5, 2009)

Doodasi said:


> It feels tall, and stretched out enough, but the bars seem a little low for me. The neck is whacked off so short, I cannot move the stem up, and the stem is really short. Any suggestions on how to move the bars up at least an inch?


Riser bar? Renthal is one of the nicest bars out there and they have a 38mm rise available.

Fatbar®


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## DonH (Oct 1, 2004)

@oldmanbiker which Rovals did you get, the 30 or 38mm width?
I'm seriously thinking of getting one of the Fuse bikes and have had great luck with the carbon Rovals in the past.
Sounds like your bike is pretty nice!


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

roofus said:


> Here is my buddy's Fuse.
> 
> View attachment 1120838
> View attachment 1120839
> View attachment 1120840


What handlebar model is this? Looks good


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## roofus (Apr 2, 2007)

This is a Jones Loop H Bar.


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## toubai (Sep 18, 2008)

76 BCD Chainrings for SRAM XX1 and Specialized Stout ? wolftoothcomponents.com


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## Tamu8104 (May 27, 2006)

Here's my current project. Primarily a road and cyclocross rider who decided to dabble in plus bikes. So far its the frame and Fox Factory 34 in the picture, plus Easton Haven dropper and an Easton stem. Easton bars are on the way as well as an XT group. I'll build up some DT 350s to Easton 35 rims. Hope to have it finished up and ready to go in a couple of weeks.


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## Individual1 (Feb 16, 2017)

Tamu8104 said:


> Here's my current project. Primarily a road and cyclocross rider who decided to dabble in plus bikes. So far its the frame and Fox Factory 34 in the picture, plus Easton Haven dropper and an Easton stem. Easton bars are on the way as well as an XT group. I'll build up some DT 350s to Easton 35 rims. Hope to have it finished up and ready to go in a couple of weeks.


Nice. That's a Medium frame right? I see you went with a long stem; what's your height?


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## RumRunnerXT (Sep 24, 2005)

It's been bothering me that the Fuse doesn't feel so light in the front to me(I'm still a beginner, I can lift the wheel and even wheelie a little bit but by the end of a ride, my body is shot and when I need to lift that front wheel for a small drop or over a tree it feels long and heavy) So I decided to upgraded my stem with a shorter 35mm Kore from Amazon. I see alotta guys going with a longer stem, so I figured I'd share some pics for those thinking of going shorter. Only took it on a quick ride with my son, but it did feel more like what I was looking for, maybe higher bars will help as well? I also bought a spacer set and since the new stem is shorter, I was able to put more spacers under it to rise the bars slightly over the stock stem. Note, not perfectly straight when I took the pics, damn it's hard to get it perfect. The frame is a medium and I'm a 5'10 beginner. Love the bike and think this made it closer to what I want it to feel like.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Tamu8104 (May 27, 2006)

Individual1 said:


> Nice. That's a Medium frame right? I see you went with a long stem; what's your height?


Yes, it's a medium frame, I typically ride 54 road/cross frames. The stem and bars in the picture aren't what are going to be on the bike, they were just placeholders till the 60mm stem came in. The XT group came in yesterday so started to put that on. Still waiting for the bars to finish the group and the hubs to build the wheels.


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## Individual1 (Feb 16, 2017)

*GXP Chain Ring*

Gentleman.. For SRAM GXP chain ring purposes, I'm trying to figure out if the Fuse has a boost chain line or a standard chain line? I know the BB is not boost, however the rear hub is. Using a Wheels PF30 to Outboard BB.

https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/97WUOm9y9DqOc0-4-DGglKZfzUDVexArRquc7ldBCYQ/mtime:1464706371/sites/default/files/techdocs/sram0_direct_mount_xsync_compatibility_v02.pdf

Would 3 or 6mm really have any effect on this 1x11 rear?


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## rijndael (Sep 19, 2016)

My 2016 Fuse Pro has a boost chain ring.


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## HHL (Nov 24, 2004)

I glanced at a couple of 2016 Fuse models on the Specialized archive and both said 148 chain line. You might go there for your model.


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## Individual1 (Feb 16, 2017)

HHL said:


> I glanced at a couple of 2016 Fuse models on the Specialized archive and both said 148 chain line. You might go there for your model.


I have a feeling that when you move to a outboard BB like the Wheels; the chain ring needs to go more inward, which would explain the 6mm offset. The stock bottom bracket is flush with the frame; the wheels outboard goes out about 12mm. I get the bike Tuesday; ordered the BB, but waiting on the cranks until I can see it.


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## Tamu8104 (May 27, 2006)

Finished up the build with everything but the grips. Couldn't resist taking it out for a spin and it was fantastic.


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## Individual1 (Feb 16, 2017)

Tamu8104 said:


> Finished up the build with everything but the grips. Couldn't resist taking it out for a spin and it was fantastic.


Sweet! What's the build specs?


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## coastermtb (Feb 20, 2012)

roofus said:


> Here is my buddy's Fuse.
> 
> View attachment 1120838
> 
> ...


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## Tamu8104 (May 27, 2006)

Individual1 said:


> Sweet! What's the build specs?


Medium Fuse
Fox 34 Factory 27.5+ Fork
Easton 60mm stem
Easton Riser bars uncut (likely going carbon bars once I have the fit dialed)
Easton Haven Dropper
Selle Italia SLR
RaceFace (Easton) Arc35 rims laced to DT Swiss 350s
Ground Control 3.0s
XT M8000 brakes, rotors, cranks (32t), pedals, shifter, rear derailleur, and cassette (11-42)


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## Boo Bear (Aug 11, 2008)

Just a side note, riding a bike without bar end plugs is not a good idea. There is a reason races require them.


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## Individual1 (Feb 16, 2017)

*Assembled*

Got the Comp today. Rides like it's on air. Swap BB, cranks and tires by the end of the week.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Looking good but swap out the BB, Mine still has the original BB and did swap the cranks to Race Face Turbine 170mm and has been running great.


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## ArchieTolliver (Sep 6, 2016)

Looks great. Ditch the tubes too. Go tubeless.


Individual1 said:


> Got the Comp today. Rides like it's on air. Swap BB, cranks and tires by the end of the week.
> 
> View attachment 1124102


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## Individual1 (Feb 16, 2017)

ArchieTolliver said:


> Looks great. Ditch the tubes too. Go tubeless.


Thx! That's the plan, just left that part out.


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## roofus (Apr 2, 2007)

coastermtb said:


> roofus said:
> 
> 
> > Here is my buddy's Fuse.
> ...


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## Dorf411 (Jan 21, 2016)

Anyone here have problems with the front end coming up when grinding in rough technical sections? I have a hard time keeping the front wheel on the ground, it is usually in the slow rocky technical sections that usually have an uphill tight hair pin turn with it. I was able to somewhat control it today by sliding forward on the seat as much as possible but it was a lot. I will try to scoot the seat forward a cm or so to see if that helps. The bike is stock and an XXL Fuse Comp, any ideas?


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I have a large and I do notice it on steeper climbs. On paper the chainstays are fairly long, but they feel much shorter when riding. Not really much you can do other than shift your weight forward.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

Individual1 said:


> Got the Comp today. Rides like it's on air. Swap BB, cranks and tires by the end of the week.


That's a FOX Rhythm 34 right? I just picked up one of those on Pinkbike to replace the Manitou Machete. How do you like it? I swapped to a Wheels angular bb and race face turbine crankset, no more creaking.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

thegoldrun said:


> That's a FOX Rhythm 34 right? I just picked up one of those on Pinkbike to replace the Manitou Machete. How do you like it? I swapped to a Wheels angular bb and race face turbine crankset, no more creaking.


Sorry to derail but what are your thoughts on the machete? There aren't a ton of reviews on it. (It's been a month, but last time I checked there were basically none).


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## felix1776 (Nov 14, 2016)

Nash04 said:


> Looking good but swap out the BB, Mine still has the original BB and did swap the cranks to Race Face Turbine 170mm and has been running great.


I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to mtb tech. What does swapping the cranks do?

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk


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## Doodasi (Feb 12, 2017)

Fairbanks007 said:


> Riser bar? Renthal is one of the nicest bars out there and they have a 38mm rise available.
> 
> Fatbar®


I went with a 90 mm x 40 degree rise stem. It is about 1 1/2" taller, and just a little shorter. I like it. That's the extent of my bike build for now.


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## Individual1 (Feb 16, 2017)

*Reply*



thegoldrun said:


> That's a FOX Rhythm 34 right? I just picked up one of those on Pinkbike to replace the Manitou Machete. How do you like it? I swapped to a Wheels angular bb and race face turbine crankset, no more creaking.











Love the Fox fork; just put on my new 50mm rise bars too.


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## RumRunnerXT (Sep 24, 2005)

techfersure said:


> 32t Absolute black on mine,clearance no prob.


Techfersure, are you running that direct with stock cranks or did you upgrade other parts as well, been searching all day about going oval, and possibly doing BB and cranks(while I'm at it). Curious of your build specs, I have a 2017 Comp with the BB30(was some models have the pb30) and looking for ideas.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## BCsaltchucker (Jan 16, 2014)

felix1776 said:


> I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to mtb tech. What does swapping the cranks do?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk


pressfit BB is prone to creaking. The stock Stout cranks are an obscure brand and heavy item, and hard to get different chainrings for.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

I ditched the stock Stout XC cranks and crappy BB for a Wheels MFG threaded BB, Shimano XT M8000 cranks, and a 32t AB oval. Works great. Much easier to get chainrings for the XT cranks.


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## BCsaltchucker (Jan 16, 2014)

Mr. Lynch said:


> I have a large and I do notice it on steeper climbs. On paper the chainstays are fairly long, but they feel much shorter when riding. Not really much you can do other than shift your weight forward.


as 27.5+ go, the chainstays are actually fairly short. This gives it more punch when pedalling uphill. Surprised that fellow saying his XXL has the front end coming off the ground - could be he is not used to using such a short stem, despite the bike having long wheelbase and reach which would reduce this pop-up tendency. I have the XXL also - no issues with this, it is exactly the geometry I was looking for.

albeit, it does not grip&climb quite as well uphill as my full sus 27.5+ bike does (but that one cost 3x as much)


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## Legoman (Apr 7, 2014)

I just ordered a absolute black oval 32t chainring. It comes in both normal and boost spacing. I assume I need the boost option? Anyone able to chime in with their thoughts. I figured it was correct but after reading through the thread some more I and starting to second guess myself with what other people have put on their bikes. I have the 2017 fuse expert if that makes a difference.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

RumRunnerXT said:


> Techfersure, are you running that direct with stock cranks or did you upgrade other parts as well, been searching all day about going oval, and possibly doing BB and cranks(while I'm at it). Curious of your build specs, I have a 2017 Comp with the BB30(was some models have the pb30) and looking for ideas.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No, RF Deus cranks with Sram bearings did some machining to the cups,stock BB.Build Fox Factory 34 150mm,Formula The One brakes,180mm rotors,Haven Carbon bar,Bontrager Rhythm stem,Hope Pro 4 rear hub, stock Stout front and rims,Xt plus derail,11-42 cassette,AB 32t oval.


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## Legoman (Apr 7, 2014)

techfersure said:


> No, RF Deus cranks with Sram bearings did some machining to the cups,stock BB.Build Fox Factory 34 150mm,Formula The One brakes,180mm rotors,Haven Carbon bar,Bontrager Rhythm stem,Hope Pro 4 rear hub, stock Stout front and rims,Xt plus derail,11-42 cassette,AB 32t oval.


Quick question, what version of the chainring did you put on? The regular version or the boost version?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Regular.


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## RumRunnerXT (Sep 24, 2005)

OKayH and Techfersure thanks for the build specs, new to this and it helps to give me a starting point! Ps looked at the stock stout cranks(bike was in shed) and realized the spider is built onto the crank, so the only options are a 76 bcd oval(very few and not cheap(not able to direct mount), or get more choices and use some of that money to upgrade to lighter cranks and a cheaper more common oval bolt pattern, for those looking for info on this as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Just keep an eye on Nashbar.com. They have carbon X0 cranks for $200, and constantly run 25% off sales. Pick one of those up for $150, swap on a DM ring of your choice and save 3/4 lb in weight!


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## rebnah (Mar 8, 2015)

Well have to say that i loved my comp so much until i saw the pro at a massively reduced price of just £1200 the same as i paid for the comp about 3 months ago.

Im collecting my new pro tomorrow. 
Had to get it as the spec is much better than the comp and for the money its a no brainer.
Im going to replace the bars with the Carbon Thomson and the Thomson stem i added to my comp. This should finish it of enough for me.
Never used Sram guides before so I'm going to give them a try as i also added XT's to my comp before.

UPDATE:
Went to collect my pro but it had missing bits and the forks were faulty so i told them to keep it.

I want to upgrade my Comp now starting with the crank and wanted to know if i can get the new XT crank to fit ok? and what is need to complete the job?


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## Pynchonite (Sep 2, 2013)

Anyone know if the Stout 650B 38mm rims that come stock on the 2017 Comp and Expert are tubeless ready?


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## mtlcafan79 (Sep 19, 2016)

Yep.


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## Teufelhunden (Oct 30, 2016)

Have read/browsed/perused this thread over the past day or so but I cannot seem to find what I'm looking for.

I saw the 2016 Fuse Comp at my LBS and loved it. I rode it around the parking lot and had a smile on my face a mile wide. I started looking at the 2017 Fuse Expert and had just about decided to pull the trigger when one of the mechanics told me to look at the Expert Carbon. Lots of upgraded components!

A couple of things:
1. Not sure about carbon.
2. If I ever race, I'll never compete against anyone but myself but will likely put on some Boost 29ers.
3. Is the upgrade worth the $1500? $3500 is just a lot for a bike.

I'll be upgrading from a 2016 Rockhopper Sport that was my first MTB and I really didn't (still don't) know what I was buying. The Rockhopper has had a drivetrain upgrade from 3x9 to 2x10 with SLX rear der and taking off the big chainring and adding a bash guard. It also has new Deore shifters. That bike's a beast thought at 35#.

The Fuse (either) would be a huge upgrade for me. I'm not scared to make the mods myself - I did all of the mods to the RH myself.

Thanks.


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## Legoman (Apr 7, 2014)

I have the expert carbon. I love it! Main reason for me was the upgraded wheels. And i think the drive train? Cant remember all the differences but wheels was a major one for me.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I always say buy the best you can afford. It's cheaper than upgrading tons of parts down the road and I've never heard a friend say "I should have got the cheaper model...".


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## DonH (Oct 1, 2004)

Legoman said:


> I have the expert carbon. I love it! Main reason for me was the upgraded wheels. And i think the drive train? Cant remember all the differences but wheels was a major one for me.


Have you tried it as a 29er?
Im very interested in this bike.


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## drdocta (Feb 10, 2017)

Maybe one of you Fuse 6Fattie experts can help me on my valiant quest. 

I own a Fuel Ex 8 29 (2017) which is capable of an easy convert to 27.5+ for which I was going to buy a new set of wheels and tires and rotors. However I also need a new hard tail capable of towing my baby in his baby buggy. I think the Fuse Sport 6Fattie may be the answer to my prayers. 

I am hoping to buy this bike and then freely, any time I want to, swap the wheels (and probably switching the cassette to make this doable) between the two bikes. 

Effectively I would own a 29r full suspension, 27.5+ full suspension, 29r hard tail, and a 27.5+ hardtail between the two bikes. 

What all would need to be done to make this possible? 

Would the wheels fit in both frames?

Would the rotors work for both brake sets?

Would I need to swap out the rear cassette? 

What tools would I need to be sure I stock up on to make the swaps effortless?


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

Teufelhunden said:


> I saw the 2016 Fuse Comp at my LBS and loved it. I rode it around the parking lot and had a smile on my face a mile wide. I started looking at the 2017 Fuse Expert and had just about decided to pull the trigger when one of the mechanics told me to look at the Expert Carbon. Lots of upgraded components!
> 
> A couple of things:
> 1. Not sure about carbon.
> ...


For the $1500 you get slightly better wheels (but not carbon rims), a better fork, a carbon frame, and slightly better drivetrain components. I'd say that if you wanted all of those things, then $1500 is a reasonable price to pay for it. But it is still almost double the price for a few pretty minor improvements - definitely a worse "value". I have the 2016 Fuse Pro, which you could think of as being halfway between the Expert and the Expert Carbon - aluminum frame and Reba fork, but the Roval Wheels and an XO1 drivetrain. It was originally $3100, and I got it on a last-model deal for $2500.

If you want to "cry once" then the Expert Carbon should keep you satisfied for a long time. If you like to fiddle with your bikes anyway, then the Expert is a good platform to start from.


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

drdocta said:


> Maybe one of you Fuse 6Fattie experts can help me on my valiant quest.
> 
> I own a Fuel Ex 8 29 (2017) which is capable of an easy convert to 27.5+ for which I was going to buy a new set of wheels and tires and rotors. However I also need a new hard tail capable of towing my baby in his baby buggy. I think the Fuse Sport 6Fattie may be the answer to my prayers.
> 
> ...


As long as both bikes are Boost front and back, then the wheels should swap without difficulty. The Fuse will come with a SRAM cassette on an XD driver, and your Fuel probably has a Shimano cassette on an HG driver, but I think that they are spaced the same these days, so should shift OK on each other's derailleurs, though you may need to adjust the B screw if the big sprocket is a different number of teeth. You wouldn't be able to move the cassettes back and forth unless you converted one of the two hubs to the other wheel's driver type.

For rotors, the Fuse is 160 rear, 180 front, which I think the Fuel is as well, though it would be worth verifying. As long as they are the same diameter they will work on both bikes.

Tools would be easy, just the allen wrenches needed to remove your axles. If you did modify one of the wheel sets to have the same driver as the other, then you'd need a cassette removal tool to pull and swap cassettes.


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## Legoman (Apr 7, 2014)

DonH said:


> Have you tried it as a 29er?
> Im very interested in this bike.


Nope, I got it strictly for the 27.5+ stuff. I have a 29er FS bike. But I have been wanting a hard tail for awhile now and figured 27.5+ was the perfect fit. Fun of a hard tail while taking out just a little bit of the chop.


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## carthief (Aug 11, 2014)

oKayH said:


> I ditched the stock Stout XC cranks and crappy BB for a Wheels MFG threaded BB, Shimano XT M8000 cranks, and a 32t AB oval. Works great. Much easier to get chainrings for the XT cranks.


hey can you provide a link to the particular BB you got from Wheels? I get anxiety looking at their website


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

carthief said:


> hey can you provide a link to the particular BB you got from Wheels? I get anxiety looking at their website


These are the ones people have been enjoying for creaky PF30 bottom brackets: PF30 Threaded Angular Contact BB (Black)

The threaded assembly makes them much more secure to install, and angular contact bearings are much better for bottom brackets since they take a lot more side-loading than radial bearings do.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

phidauex said:


> For the $1500 you get slightly better wheels (but not carbon rims), a better fork, a carbon frame, and slightly better drivetrain components. I'd say that if you wanted all of those things, then $1500 is a reasonable price to pay for it. But it is still almost double the price for a few pretty minor improvements - definitely a worse "value". I have the 2016 Fuse Pro, which you could think of as being halfway between the Expert and the Expert Carbon - aluminum frame and Reba fork, but the Roval Wheels and an XO1 drivetrain. It was originally $3100, and I got it on a last-model deal for $2500.
> 
> If you want to "cry once" then the Expert Carbon should keep you satisfied for a long time. If you like to fiddle with your bikes anyway, then the Expert is a good platform to start from.


Glad you broke down the details. I agree, and I would suggest that the difference is not so much that the carbon is worth it. The current Expert has a Reba like the old Pro and is only $2K. The brakes aren't as good, but brakes are cheap, and you can get a better wheels for $500ish, so the Expert Carbon isn't much of a value proposition, especially if you're Agnostic about carbon frames. I'd suggest going the middle of the road and seeing if you want to upgrade or maybe get a different sort of bike. The new bike will be such an upgrade that you won't mind the extra weight.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## drdocta (Feb 10, 2017)

phidauex said:


> As long as both bikes are Boost front and back, then the wheels should swap without difficulty. The Fuse will come with a SRAM cassette on an XD driver, and your Fuel probably has a Shimano cassette on an HG driver, but I think that they are spaced the same these days, so should shift OK on each other's derailleurs, though you may need to adjust the B screw if the big sprocket is a different number of teeth. You wouldn't be able to move the cassettes back and forth unless you converted one of the two hubs to the other wheel's driver type.
> 
> For rotors, the Fuse is 160 rear, 180 front, which I think the Fuel is as well, though it would be worth verifying. As long as they are the same diameter they will work on both bikes.
> 
> Tools would be easy, just the allen wrenches needed to remove your axles. If you did modify one of the wheel sets to have the same driver as the other, then you'd need a cassette removal tool to pull and swap cassettes.


I'm such a mechanical nub I didn't even know there was different hub sizes. Makes sense though. I don't want to upgrade or buy any hubs. It looks like the rear wheel on the 6fattie or the sport won't fit because it's not boost correct?

I would donate 69 Internet cool points if someone could inspect the specs of these two bikes and see if my dream would work with minimal difficulty to swap the wheels.

If someone could do that for me I would love them forever.


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

drdocta said:


> I'm such a mechanical nub I didn't even know there was different hub sizes. Makes sense though. I don't want to upgrade or buy any hubs. It looks like the rear wheel on the 6fattie or the sport won't fit because it's not boost correct?
> 
> I would donate 69 Internet cool points if someone could inspect the specs of these two bikes and see if my dream would work with minimal difficulty to swap the wheels.
> 
> If someone could do that for me I would love them forever.


69 internet points and forever luv from a stranger??? Sign me up.

So here is what you need to know if you are going to swap wheels from one bike to another. Fortunately it is pretty easy these days, despite the few hub standards.

Wheel Diameter: The two wheels can't have wildly different diameters. Fortunately the outer diameter of 27.5+ is similar to that of a normal 29er (actually slightly smaller). This used to be a BIG deal with rim brakes, but is not such a big deal these days with disc brakes. Your situation should be fine here.

Tire Width: This will be the killer on many older frames, but the Trek Fuel EX 8 claims to have clearance for 27.5+ and 29er on the same frame. I'm inclined to believe them, but can't prove it. "Back in the day" only a few manufacturers made wide clearance frames, like Surly's "Fatties fit fine" series, but it is more common now.

Hub and Axle: There are a few axle diameters and a few hub widths. 9mm x 135mm rear and 9mm x 100mm front quick release was the standard _forever_ but has been recently supplanted by 12x142, and even more recently, "Boost", which is 15x148 on the rear, and 15x110 on the front. Both the Fuel and almost all 27.5+ hardtails are on "Boost" hubs, so you should be fine here, just double check before buying.

Rotor Diameter: 160mm is a common rear, and 180mm is a common front. They all have the same spacing, and are cross compatible as long as the diameter is right. I don't know what the Fuel EX 8 has, but you should be able to tell by looking - it will be printed somewhere on the rotor. Worst case you'd need to swap rotors when you changed wheels, but that can be a bit of a pain.

Cassette: Gets a bit trickier here. For 11sp cassettes, Shimano cassettes mount to an "HG" driver (Hyperglide), and SRAM cassettes mount to an "XD" driver. They are not cross-compatible. But the cassettes DO have about the same spacing. In general, 11sp SRAM cassettes will work OK on Shimano derailleurs, and vice versa. There can be funky details, like sometimes SRAM chains work better on Shimano cassettes, but not the other way around, but it isn't usually unresolvable. If you wanted to use the same cassette on two bikes, then your LBS could probably put the other kind of driver on your hub (many, but not all hubs can have an HG or XD driver put on them).

Chain Length: If your two cassettes have similar big and small sprockets, then you'll be OK. If not, then you could have a chain length problem between the two bikes when swapping. If they are within 2 teeth of each other on the high and low end, then you are probably fine.

In short, I think you'd be fine swapping between the Trek and most modern 27.5+ 11sp bikes, as long as you check the rotor sizes, and may be willing to troubleshoot a few minor issues, like having to replace the chain on one of the two bikes to get smooth shifting.

EDIT: While I obviously have a Fuse and like it, you should also look into the Salsa Timberjack at around $1k, and the REI Co-op DRT 2.1, which since it is REI 20% coupon season for members, would be around $1300 and is in my opinion a quite good value.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Unfortunately, the REI coupons are not valid on bikes.


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## Teufelhunden (Oct 30, 2016)

Thanks for the reply.



phidauex said:


> if you wanted all of those things, then $1500 is a reasonable price to pay for it. But it is still almost double the price for a few pretty minor improvements - definitely a worse "value".


Again, not sure if I really want carbon or not. To me, the SWAT box is a gimmick. I don't mind riding with a pack on my back. That's just me.

What minor improvements to the alloy Expert would you do? New rims and brakes as someone (phride - thanks also to you) else mentioned?


----------



## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

phride said:


> Unfortunately, the REI coupons are not valid on bikes.


Oh man, you're right! You used to be able to use them on bikes, at least the REI branded ones! Their list of exclusions has gotten awfully damn long...


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## drdocta (Feb 10, 2017)

phidauex said:


> Oh man, you're right! You used to be able to use them on bikes, at least the REI branded ones! Their list of exclusions has gotten awfully damn long...


Luckily salsa is another brand other than specialized that can a pretty good deal non too. 1200 msrp was already a stretch though so 1400 for the TJ+ would be difficult to swing through what a sexy sexy bike...


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## drdocta (Feb 10, 2017)

phidauex said:


> 69 internet points and forever luv from a stranger??? Sign me up.
> 
> So here is what you need to know if you are going to swap wheels from one bike to another. Fortunately it is pretty easy these days, despite the few hub standards.
> 
> ...


I love you.

[You have earned +69icp]

It looks like the rear wheel on the fuse sport 6fattie isn't boost according to their website. Can that be right? Would it be only boost on the front?

My Fuels derailer could handle the cassette you think? I'd really like to not have to replace any hubs or have to fiddle too much with the derailer settings between swaps if possible.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

The Fuse is Boost. 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

drdocta said:


> It looks like the rear wheel on the fuse sport 6fattie isn't boost according to their website. Can that be right? Would it be only boost on the front?
> 
> My Fuels derailer could handle the cassette you think? I'd really like to not have to replace any hubs or have to fiddle too much with the derailer settings between swaps if possible.


Doh, you appear to be right! On the Sport the rear hub is 10x141 (to fit in a 10x142 standard spacing), so NOT boost! It looks like the Fuse and the Fuse Sport have a different frame and no boost rear-end. It isn't until you get to the Fuse Comp that it has a boost rear end.

Unfortunately this keeps pushing you back into this ~$1500-1600 realm, with the Fuse Comp, the Santa Cruz Chameleon, the REI DRT2.1, etc.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

phidauex said:


> Doh, you appear to be right! On the Sport the rear hub is 10x141 (to fit in a 10x142 standard spacing), so NOT boost! It looks like the Fuse and the Fuse Sport have a different frame and no boost rear-end. It isn't until you get to the Fuse Comp that it has a boost rear end.
> 
> Unfortunately this keeps pushing you back into this ~$1500-1600 realm, with the Fuse Comp, the Santa Cruz Chameleon, the REI DRT2.1, etc.


This is incorrect.
It's 141 because it's a boost hub with a quick release. It does not fit a 142 frame, because 142 is a thru axle.

148 boost thru axle is to 141QR as 142 thru axle is to 135 QR.


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

tfinator said:


> This is incorrect.
> It's 141 because it's a boost hub with a quick release. It does not fit a 142 frame, because 142 is a thru axle.
> 
> 148 boost thru axle is to 141QR as 142 thru axle is to 135 QR.


Ah, you learned me something today, I hadn't encountered that hub setup yet. I suppose the question is, would that boost qr hub swap onto a frame with a boost thru axle, and vice versa? Or are the dropouts different?


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## drdocta (Feb 10, 2017)

I think I may have overlooked a significant detail...

Both the fuse (lower end models) and the timber jack plus seem to be 10sp so my 11sp rear cassette and it won't be compatible for a swap with either bike. 

Looks like my dream is dead. At this point I may as well just get some Sun Ringle Duroc B+ wheels, rotors, and I guess a sram 10-42 11 sp casset. That would probably run me less money I feel like than going up to the higher fuse that comes with the right cassette. 

Would the wheel build I just mentioned work for me as wheels to swap out on my Fuel?


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

phidauex said:


> Ah, you learned me something today, I hadn't encountered that hub setup yet. I suppose the question is, would that boost qr hub swap onto a frame with a boost thru axle, and vice versa? Or are the dropouts different?


The drop outs and hubs are different. Now many hubs can be converted back and forth with different end caps, but the frame likely can't take either.

Some frames are made to, like the salsa timber Jack with the alternator drop outs.

Depending on your weight and usage, a QR rear isn't a terrible thing. I'm 150 lbs and ride XC, so I barely notice.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

drdocta said:


> I think I may have overlooked a significant detail...
> 
> Both the fuse (lower end models) and the timber jack plus seem to be 10sp so my 11sp rear cassette and it won't be compatible for a swap with either bike.
> 
> ...


The timber Jack is nx1 or gx1, which are both 11 speed?


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## BCsaltchucker (Jan 16, 2014)

drdocta said:


> I think I may have overlooked a significant detail...
> 
> Both the fuse (lower end models) and the timber jack plus seem to be 10sp so my 11sp rear cassette and it won't be compatible for a swap with either bike.
> 
> ...


not sure what you mean here. but a 11sp cassette will work fine on the fuse hubs' freehub. I actually swapped my Fuse Comp wheelset with the wheelset on my devinci marshall (also boost plus bike). The Fuse being 10sp and Marshall being 11 sp sram. would just need a shifter and possibly a derailleur to use your 11sp cassette.

however this is all shimano type freehub (eg sram NX cassette, not XD I am talking.


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## drdocta (Feb 10, 2017)

tfinator said:


> The timber Jack is nx1 or gx1, which are both 11 speed?


Whoops not sure where I thought I read 10 speed. Probably saw sun race 11-42 and thought it was the 10 speed version.

So the it looks like the Fuse is a no go since I don't want.to have to get a new derailer and shifter so is the timberjack my only opton?

More Internet cool points and eternal affection for anyone who can confirm!


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

Sorry I cheaped out and did not read this entire thread (yet).

I respectfully request comments comparing Fuse to Trek's Stache series, 29+, HT, Boost, offset chain stay, etc.

My greatest interest is in the $3100 2016 "Fuse Pro 6Fattie" and $3500 2017 "Fuse Expert Carbon 6Fattie" But I also appreciate general comments comparing Fuse frame geometry and wheel diameter vs. Stache. In particular, is Fuse handling more neutral?

Re. the Stache's offset chain stay: my LBS shop recently told me so-called 27.5" wheels actually measure only 27.1". If true, that means 650B wheels fall only 1/3rd between 26 and 29 wheels, not half way. It also means offset chain stay is of little to no performance benefit for 650B (Salsa Woodsmoke frame fits 27.5+, 29, 29+, and has offset chain stay ala Stache).

I have a 2016 Trek Stache 5, rigid carbon fork, full XTR upgrades. Also considering just adding a good suspension fork. I recently rode my 2013 Salsa Mukluk 2 26 Fat Bike, and was amazed at how neutral is the handling compared to my Stache. There's nothing wrong with the Stache. Compared to Fuse I suspect Stache's larger wheels trade away some handling precision and neutrality for their increased roll over quality.

I recently test rode a new $2k Fuse L size. As expected for the crazy price difference, Fuse compared badly to a $4700 Stache carbon rode previously, in my proper XL size.


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## Sleach2305 (Feb 24, 2013)

roofus said:


> Here is my buddy's Fuse.
> 
> View attachment 1120838
> View attachment 1120839
> View attachment 1120840


So what spindle was used. I just got my cinch arms but the spindle is too long. Do I need the spacers or a different spindle. It's about 20mm to long


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## Teufelhunden (Oct 30, 2016)

After having posted here and a Timberjack thread, I have found out the following:

1. I like the specs and looks of the James Dragonslayer 27.5+ Pro. Unfortunately, one of my LBSs cannot order. I need to check with another. This bike is CrMo frame with WTB Scraper wheels and the Shimano SLX groupset (with which I'm already familiar having upgraded my RH to the 10-spd SLX set). Bikepacking would be an afterthought but this bike gets a good review on bikepacker.com.

2. I could see if my LBS can order any 2016 Fuse Pros. I don't know; otherwise, I'll go with the 2017 non-carbon Expert and upgrade the wheels to...?
a. WTB Scrapers?
b. Specialized Rovals?
c. something else? recommendations in the sub-$600 range?


----------



## Chris Pringle (Oct 28, 2003)

Dorf411 said:


> Anyone here have problems with the front end coming up when grinding in rough technical sections? I have a hard time keeping the front wheel on the ground, it is usually in the slow rocky technical sections...


Do not own a Fuse, but this is something that can happen to any bike given its intrinsic geometry. What's the stem length on this bike? Short seems to be the norm these days, but given this bike's geometry, it could be making the front end too light -- great for going downhill and lifting the front end over technical sections, but not good for steep climbs if your front wheel is lifting off the ground. So, try putting a longer stem (say another 20mm). This will force you to add more upper body weight towards the front end and it should make everything a little more balanced for you.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Chris Pringle said:


> Do not own a Fuse, but this is something that can happen to any bike given its intrinsic geometry. What's the stem length on this bike? Short seems to be the norm these days, but given this bike's geometry, it could be making the front end too light -- great for going downhill and lifting the front end over technical sections, but not good for steep climbs if your front wheel is lifting off the ground. So, try putting a longer stem (say another 20mm). This will force you to add more upper body weight towards the front end and it should make everything a little more balanced for you.


You really don't need any weight on the bars on climbs if your weight is distributed well and your weight is on the pedals. When things really get steep, you pretty much need to stand up, and even then you don't need to have any weight on the bars. Obviously, you need your hands to keep the handlebar straight, but that's about it. It seems most people put too much rearward pressure on the bars, which causes the front to come up. If you slide forward on the saddle a bit and lean towards the bars, you can get superior traction that trying to weight the front with your arms. Putting on a longer stem isn't usually the right move, IMO.

Full disclosure: I don't own a Fuse either.


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I have a Niner RDO carbon bar with a 5 degree rise and on my Fuse and the front end does not feel too light on the climbs. Stock bar is 15 degree rise.


----------



## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

I rode my shop's 2016 Fuse Expert and am really impressed with the bike. I want to buy a 2017 but noticed they're all specced with 38mm id Stout rims instead of the WTB Scraper i45. Major disappointment. Can anybody weigh in on how the Stout is?


----------



## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The WTB Scraper i45 are boat anchors, so dropping weight with minimal change in performance is a win. I have a 2016 Fuse Comp and I sold the stock WTB Scraper wheelset and replaced it with the Roval 38s. 

I dont think the rim change is a huge deal either way, I just wish they would use better hubs.


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## pharmkid85 (Mar 29, 2017)

The stouts are fine. Had em on my 17 Expert and they are plenty supportive and not too heavy feeling. My girlfriend rides a 17 Ruze Comp and hers came with the scrapers. She rode my Fuse and felt like her rims were super heavy in comparison.


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## ski1970 (Aug 20, 2007)

Good day. I am sorry but I do not have the time to reach the threads so her got with a question that has been a hundred times I am sure. I am 5'9" 5'10: on a good day with a 31 inseam. What size Fuse a med or a Large?


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## Hyder88 (Mar 29, 2016)

ski1970 said:


> Good day. I am sorry but I do not have the time to reach the threads so her got with a question that has been a hundred times I am sure. I am 5'9" 5'10: on a good day with a 31 inseam. What size Fuse a med or a Large?


I am 5'9 31 inseam and went with a Med, I changed the stem to a 60mm and feel great on the bike... I ride a 54cm road bike.. Tried a large but felt better on the Med... if you are closer to 5'10 and like to be stretched out a tad, a large with stock stem will prob work for you... my 2 cents..


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## hgravez (Jul 15, 2008)

Has anyone used a PF30 adapter (like  this) in order to install cranks with a 24mm spindle diameter (for example, Race Face Aeffect)? How does this work? Success?

Thanks a ton!


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

hgravez said:


> Has anyone used a PF30 adapter (like  this) in order to install cranks with a 24mm spindle diameter (for example, Race Face Aeffect)? How does this work? Success?
> 
> Thanks a ton!


Works just fine. I've had one on my bike with XT cranks since last June. Nice and silent when laying down some power...


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## hgravez (Jul 15, 2008)

oKayH said:


> Works just fine. I've had one on my bike with XT cranks since last June. Nice and silent when laying down some power...


Awesome! Do you just tap in the adapters, install cranks an go? Need spacers?


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

hgravez said:


> Awesome! Do you just tap in the adapters, install cranks an go? Need spacers?


Whoops, sorry to get your hopes up. I thought you meant the threaded version that they have, not the adapters. I've used the adapters before and yes, they just tap in. I recommend getting the threaded version (PF30 Outboard ABEC-3 BB for 24mm Cranks (Shimano, FSA, Etc.) - Black) to eliminate the need for adapters and getting a solid interface that will get rid of a common source of creaking with PF/BB style bottom brackets. Plus, I found the OEM bearings to be junk with regular MTBing where elements exist (my OEM ones lasted less than 2 months)


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

ski1970 said:


> Good day. I am sorry but I do not have the time to reach the threads so her got with a question that has been a hundred times I am sure. I am 5'9" 5'10: on a good day with a 31 inseam. What size Fuse a med or a Large?


I would suggest a medium. The fuse runs pretty true to size and the customers who are your height choose the medium fuse over the large after they take both for a quick spin.


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

Teufelhunden said:


> After having posted here and a Timberjack thread, I have found out the following:
> 
> 1. I like the specs and looks of the James Dragonslayer 27.5+ Pro. Unfortunately, one of my LBSs cannot order. I need to check with another. This bike is CrMo frame with WTB Scraper wheels and the Shimano SLX groupset (with which I'm already familiar having upgraded my RH to the 10-spd SLX set). Bikepacking would be an afterthought but this bike gets a good review on bikepacker.com.
> 
> ...


I just checked Specialized's stock available to dealers and it appears that the 2016 Fuse Pro is only available in a medium and small. No large or xl's left at this point.

EDIT: I was mistaken, only small Fuse Pros seem to be available.


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## scrrll (Mar 31, 2017)

Anyone know if our rear sunrace cassets fit the sram xd drivers. Looking to buy a used set of 29er wheels.


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

scrrll said:


> Anyone know if our rear sunrace cassets fit the sram xd drivers. Looking to buy a used set of 29er wheels.


No, they do not fit xd drivers. Sunrace cassettes fit a standard freehub body. You will have to buy a SRAM PG 1150, 1175, or 1199 cassette to use a set of wheels with an xd driver.


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

Does anyone with a 2017 Fuse Comp know what bottom bracket it uses? It is listed as a BB30 which does not make sense when the 2017 Fuse Expert, 2016 Fuse Expert, and 2016 Fuse Comp all use PF30 bottom brackets. I called Specialized and they were of no help.


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## ArchieTolliver (Sep 6, 2016)

Honda Guy said:


> Does anyone with a 2017 Fuse Comp know what bottom bracket it uses? It is listed as a BB30 which does not make sense when the 2017 Fuse Expert, 2016 Fuse Expert, and 2016 Fuse Comp all use PF30 bottom brackets. I called Specialized and they were of no help.


The Fuse comp has a PF30. Press fit bearings. Wheels Manufacturing or RaceFace make decent quality BB. Either will be light years better than the stock cups/bearings.

Race Face PF30 Bottom Bracket Adapter > Components > Drivetrain > Conversion Kits & Parts | Jenson USA

matt


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

ArchieTolliver said:


> The Fuse comp has a PF30. Press fit bearings. Wheels Manufacturing or RaceFace make decent quality BB.


Thanks for letting me know Matt. I have heard good things about the Wheels threaded PF30. Friends of mine have had great success with it in their stumpjumpers.


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## rock-rod (Sep 3, 2012)

I used the race face pf30 BB - it was super easy to install and has been creak-free.


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## Ramia (Apr 2, 2017)

*Upgrade Chainring*

Hello to all you guys
I want to upgrade the chainring on my Fuse Comp 2017 it has 28t and I want to upgrade to 32t, the stock chainring is 76mm BCD, could I put the SRAM XX1 76mm BCD 32t like this thanks and sorry for my english.


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## ArchieTolliver (Sep 6, 2016)

Ramia said:


> Hello to all you guys
> I want to upgrade the chainring on my Fuse Comp 2017 it has 28t and I want to upgrade to 32t, the stock chainring is 76mm BCD, could I put the SRAM XX1 76mm BCD 32t like this thanks and sorry for my english.


Yes, that should fit fine.


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## ArchieTolliver (Sep 6, 2016)

Has anyone thrown a set of 29er wheels/tires on their Fuse yet? I'm interested to hear experiences/feedback.


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## drdocta (Feb 10, 2017)

ArchieTolliver said:


> Has anyone thrown a set of 29er wheels/tires on their Fuse yet? I'm interested to hear experiences/feedback.


+1 me too


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## metaljim (Apr 22, 2009)

drdocta said:


> +1 me too


Same. Definitely curious how much tire one can fit on a 29er wheel on the Fuse.


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## Stranberg (Mar 12, 2017)

metaljim said:


> Same. Definitely curious how much tire one can fit on a 29er wheel on the Fuse.


Specialized told me that the Fuse will take up to a 2.3 inch wide 29 inch tire. Still want to do this myself.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

They are running 29x2.6 Nobby Nic on a Fuse here
https://gypsybytrade.wordpress.com/2017/03/12/laels-baja-divide-fkt-bike-specialized-fuse-29/


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## drdocta (Feb 10, 2017)

Mr. Lynch said:


> They are running 29x2.6 Nobby Nic on a Fuse here
> https://gypsybytrade.wordpress.com/2017/03/12/laels-baja-divide-fkt-bike-specialized-fuse-29/


Good to know

Planning on putting my old i22 rims with dhfs 2.5 on it (they measure actually 2.3 anyway) and its good to know they'd fit.


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## 20twentwen (Apr 4, 2017)

*3 month Review 2016 Fuse Expert-*







Really liking this bike after picking it up at a 33% discount from MSRP. It handles very well on downhills and it's fun to climb over technical terrain with the big meaty tires. The only issues I've had with it is the bottom bracket and the rear hub failing - both replaced under warranty. Specialized hooked me up with a _much_ lighter 38mm Roval rear wheel with a very nice hub! First ride out I beat my time around a popular 3 mile loop by 30 seconds! I also added RaceFace Chester pedals and ODI Rogue grips, very content with the performance of both. Couldn't be happier with the bike.


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

Deleted.


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

Hi All, 
I did not want to re-read through all this. I am looking for a smallish frame bag that would work on my large fuse. Keys, wallet, food, enough room to stuff an unneeded shirt or jacket. Any suggestions?
Thanks, MikeB


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## SotnaC (Apr 8, 2017)

Hi guys! I recently bought the standard model fuse 6fattie. It comes with a straight chainstay compared to the higher models that has diamond design. I tried changing the stock bb and stout crankset with 28t chainring in to threaded sram bb and sram gx with 32t but to no avail because it will hit the chainstay. Any suggestions of what to do? Clueless right now even the bike shop where I bought it. 

Replies is very much appreciated


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

SotnaC said:


> Hi guys! I recently bought the standard model fuse 6fattie. It comes with a straight chainstay compared to the higher models that has diamond design. I tried changing the stock bb and stout crankset with 28t chainring in to threaded sram bb and sram gx with 32t but to no avail because it will hit the chainstay. Any suggestions of what to do? Clueless right now even the bike shop where I bought it.
> 
> Replies is very much appreciated


Unfortunately you can only move a SRAM crankset's chainline inwards. I would try using spacers and longer chainring bolts to move the chainring outboard, but by increasing the chainline you may expereince issues with chain drop, premature wear, or a noisy drivetrain.

The split chainstays on the Fuse Comp and Expert exist for large chainring clearance, which is a bummer as there is no way to get a fuse with clearance and a threaded bottom bracket without buying one of the carbon models.


----------



## jbowland (May 7, 2004)

ArchieTolliver said:


> Has anyone thrown a set of 29er wheels/tires on their Fuse yet? I'm interested to hear experiences/feedback.


I'm about 1 week from ordering some 29er wheels. It just so happens I saw the specialized rep in the shop last week and he has the same bike as I do (the Fuse expert carbon) and he has already made the switch to 29er wheels and is running 2.4" Purgatory's.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

SotnaC said:


> Hi guys! I recently bought the standard model fuse 6fattie. It comes with a straight chainstay compared to the higher models that has diamond design. I tried changing the stock bb and stout crankset with 28t chainring in to threaded sram bb and sram gx with 32t but to no avail because it will hit the chainstay. Any suggestions of what to do? Clueless right now even the bike shop where I bought it.
> 
> Replies is very much appreciated


Is the chainring/spider Boost?
.
.


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## scrrll (Mar 31, 2017)

Race face bb and turbine crank. Absolute black 32t ring.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

Dorf411 said:


> Anyone here have problems with the front end coming up when grinding in rough technical sections? I have a hard time keeping the front wheel on the ground, it is usually in the slow rocky technical sections that usually have an uphill tight hair pin turn with it. I was able to somewhat control it today by sliding forward on the seat as much as possible but it was a lot. I will try to scoot the seat forward a cm or so to see if that helps. The bike is stock and an XXL Fuse Comp, any ideas?


I am wondering if the long seat post is placing your butt further back compared to us that aren't so tall. I think you have a bigger percentage of your weight farther back and also higher center of mass. 
I ride a large Fuse and know exactly what you talking about. I slide forward and try to keep the front end from wandering. Sometimes I bang into an obstacle and the whole works is brought to a stop. My Karate Monkey is easier climbing the steep techy stuff. The Fuse really shines when the speed comes up on the way down the hills.


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## Dorf411 (Jan 21, 2016)

WMBigs said:


> I am wondering if the long seat post is placing your butt further back compared to us that aren't so tall. I think you have a bigger percentage of your weight farther back and also higher center of mass.
> I ride a large Fuse and know exactly what you talking about. I slide forward and try to keep the front end from wandering. Sometimes I bang into an obstacle and the whole works is brought to a stop. My Karate Monkey is easier climbing the steep techy stuff. The Fuse really shines when the speed comes up on the way down the hills.


I slid my seat forward a little over a cm and made a huge improvement, that plus working on my technique.


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

I make adjustments for a friend to his used 2016 Comp w/"SR Suntour Raidon" 120mm fork. Sum total adjustments comprise:
Compression: normal/lockout
Rebound: red knurled knob, bottom
Air: 180 PSI maximum

Fork is OK for the bike's SRP of $1600 USD.

Air spring and lockout both work fine.

The red rebound knob has almost no tension. After about 25 clockwise rotations I found no stop point. Earlier I found counter clockwise stop point. OEM pdf: "...To find the right rebound speed,_ turn...adjusting screw *as far clockwise as possible*..."_ (emphasis added). Does above not indicate clockwise stop point?


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## coastermtb (Feb 20, 2012)

Brake pads for 2016 pro. I've been doing some online searching for replacements brake pads for my Fuse. Bike came with the sram DB5 brakes. I've had the levers replaced under warranty for guide R's. The pads in atm are marked Guide 0 with code ?D177 (5D177) I think. I've seem some guide resin pads marked 5D187, but look different.
Anybody replaced theirs?


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## nmeofun (Jul 20, 2012)

My stock BB pretty much froze up on one side, so I replaced it with the Wheels Manufacturing unit. I also removed the boat-anchor Stout cranks and replaced them with Race Face Turbine cranks. I'm extremely happy with these upgrades. 

My rear hub continued to come loose and require tightening. The last time I took it off and decided to service it for the second time. This time I lost two ball-bearings that were somehow swallowed up by my garage floor. That prompted me to buy a SRAM 900 hub but I have yet to have the wheel re-laced. In the meantime I cannibalized an older wheelset for a couple of bearings so I can still ride. Looking forward to the hub replacement.

So far, my upgrades are:
1. XT brakes
2. XT rear derailer and shifter
3. Race Face Turbine Cranks
4. Wheels MFG BB
5. Easton Monkey-Bars
6. WTB saddle
7. Egg-beaters

The bike is coming around! Getting very happy with it!


----------



## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

Just ditched the stock Ground Control rear tire for the newest Purgatory GRID after ~300mi. The stock tire was over 50% worn and seeping Stans from the sidewalls to the point all 4oz+ was gone after half a season. Way more traction in the rear and less sidewall roll at lower psi. And zero sealant seepage so far. 

I put a few extra ounces of Stans in the front and I'll replace that one too when it starts losing air.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

nmeofun said:


> So far, my upgrades are:
> 1. XT brakes
> 3. Race Face Turbine Cranks
> 4. Wheels MFG BB


Same here. Very happy with all these upgrades.


----------



## reig3 (Apr 24, 2012)

*New Fattie for the old fattie*









Havent had much chance to get out on it yet. Sold my large Fatboy and got this as a nice in betweener. Put on the 32 Tooth Wolf and a little bling waiting to put a longer chain on this weekend. (Q Factor was really starting to bother my knees) I think I will keep the stock dropper post and go to a carbon when or if it goes bad. Carbon bars up next.

Any suggestions for better rotors without a complete brake change over?(XT)

Fuse Expert Medium
Tubeless
Wolf 32 tooth

Bob


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Very nice! I had a fatboy for 2 seasons and switched to a Fuse. It is a lot more fun on the trail!


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## nmeofun (Jul 20, 2012)

reig3 said:


> View attachment 1132913
> 
> 
> Any suggestions for better rotors without a complete brake change over?(XT)
> ...


XT brakes and ice-tech rotors aren't very expensive anymore and a great bang for the buck. You've started down the rabbit hole; don't stop now!


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

You could even go with Deore level brakes. I actually prefer the feel and consistency of the Deore and SLX over the XT. If your a bigger guy or ride real hard and fast Zee are a nice 4 piston option too.


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## metaljim (Apr 22, 2009)

WMBigs said:


> Hi All,
> I did not want to re-read through all this. I am looking for a smallish frame bag that would work on my large fuse. Keys, wallet, food, enough room to stuff an unneeded shirt or jacket. Any suggestions?
> Thanks, MikeB


Medium Revelate Tangle fits near perfect, though you lose water bottle space. Jandd bags work as well, allowing a bit more room for bottles.


----------



## slevin011 (Sep 26, 2016)

Hi all,

I have a '17 Fuse Comp that I bought last October. Recently, my dropper post is getting stuck a few centimeters from the top and I have to hold the lever and manually pull it up while riding. Is there an easy fix for this or should I just contact my LBS/Specialized and see what they recommend? 

This is the TranzX dropper by the way. 

Thanks


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## rijndael (Sep 19, 2016)

ArchieTolliver said:


> Has anyone thrown a set of 29er wheels/tires on their Fuse yet? I'm interested to hear experiences/feedback.


I'm running my Fuse Pro with 29" wheels. I use a set of 29x2.6" Nobby Nics on 30mm (ID) rims. I like the bike a lot more non-plus'd.


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## rijndael (Sep 19, 2016)

Dorf411 said:


> Anyone here have problems with the front end coming up when grinding in rough technical sections? I have a hard time keeping the front wheel on the ground, it is usually in the slow rocky technical sections that usually have an uphill tight hair pin turn with it. I was able to somewhat control it today by sliding forward on the seat as much as possible but it was a lot. I will try to scoot the seat forward a cm or so to see if that helps. The bike is stock and an XXL Fuse Comp, any ideas?


I run all of my saddles in the same place as far as height and setback, and with my numbers, I had to ditch the setback seatpost. After getting my saddle setup, I had a bit of tire lift too. Removing a few spacers from under the stem was the fix. I'm running one spacer (.5cm) under and 1cm above.


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## egus (Apr 26, 2017)

Hello everyone, I've found a pretty good deal on a fuse pro (1250$ and 150km), the problem is, I am not sure if the size is the correct one. 
I am 6'4 and its a size XL , I do not know if I would better off with a XXL. 
I currently have a road bike but want to combine both, do you guys think the fuse is a good all rounder?

Thank you in advance

Cheers from Spain!



Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 4X mediante Tapatalk


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## Dorf411 (Jan 21, 2016)

Egus, just for reference I am 6'3" and went with the XXL and I am pretty happy with the size. The reach is good and I am able to get the bars up close to the seat level. The area where it gets sketchy is in top tube stand over on uneven terrain. I put my seat to around 83.5cm from center of bottom bracket to the top of the seat. So if you are around that height for seat height you may find the stand over to be problematic in emergency dismounts. I manage but wish there was a bit more room.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

I'm 6'3" and went with the XL and a shorter stem than stock. I find it to be perfect for long pedal days (4+ hours in the saddle) and getting rowdy for some hardtail enduros once in a while. Also found it handles dirt jumps decent enough if you are into that type of thing....


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

slevin011 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have a '17 Fuse Comp that I bought last October. Recently, my dropper post is getting stuck a few centimeters from the top and I have to hold the lever and manually pull it up while riding. Is there an easy fix for this or should I just contact my LBS/Specialized and see what they recommend?
> 
> ...


Sounds like maybe your seat post clamp is too tight. I had the same problem, something worth trying.


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

My TranzX dropper packed up last year, it's not user serviceable. 
Replaced mine with an Xfusion.


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## ericjayowsley (Jan 26, 2015)

I apologize for mucking up a useful thread on the Fuse with a classified ad, but I have a Fuse I'd like to sell to fund a touring bike build before summer.

For sale, 2015 Specialized Fuse Expert. Black and red. Size XL. Purchased new in October 2016. Bike has relatively few miles on it. It currently shares time with my full-fat, which got the majority of miles over the winter. I'd estimate that the Fuse has less than 300 miles on it.

Upgrades include:
- Brand new (used once) Surly Dirt Wizard 60tpi 27.5 x 3.0 tires, mounted tubeless.
- New, upgraded Wheels Manufacturing threaded PF30 bottom bracket -- much smoother than original and completely creak free.
- Garbaruk 28t oval chainring.
- Crank Brothers Iodine 11 carbon handlebar.

This bike is in awesome condition and, as those in this forum have read and experienced, is generally an awesome mountain bike. It's just not the one I need in my limited stable at this point in time.

Looking to get $1500 for it and will drive 2 hours from Lexington, Virginia, to complete a transaction. Will happily send photos at your request.

Thanks, and carry on the good dialogue.
Eric


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## fmf979 (Feb 14, 2016)

I have a 2016 fuse comp that came stock with an x7 10 speed long cage rear derailer and 11-40 rear cassette. I have searched but am having a hard figuring out what sram I can use to replace it? Have any of you guys had to replace yours? It seems like the NX is supposed to replace it but says it has a max cassette of 36 teeth but I have 40? This may not be the right place to ask but any help would be appreciated.


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## nmeofun (Jul 20, 2012)

fmf979 said:


> I have a 2016 fuse comp that came stock with an x7 10 speed long cage rear derailer and 11-40 rear cassette. I have searched but am having a hard figuring out what sram I can use to replace it? Have any of you guys had to replace yours? It seems like the NX is supposed to replace it but says it has a max cassette of 36 teeth but I have 40? This may not be the right place to ask but any help would be appreciated.


Why not replace it with another Sun Race cassette? They come in 11-40 and 11-42. I just put the 11-42 on another bike of mine and have no problems with the quality. It may be a little heavier than some of the SRAM offerings, but then so am I.

BTW, this is the place to ask about these bikes... folks have been changing / swapping parts and posting about it here since the day they came out!


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## fmf979 (Feb 14, 2016)

nmeofun said:


> Why not replace it with another Sun Race cassette? They come in 11-40 and 11-42. I just put the 11-42 on another bike of mine and have no problems with the quality. It may be a little heavier than some of the SRAM offerings, but then so am I.
> 
> BTW, this is the place to ask about these bikes... folks have been changing / swapping parts and posting about it here since the day they came out!


Thanks for replying but my question is what derailer I can replace my damaged x7 with? The cassette is still good. Do you know if the 10 speed long cage gx will work even though it says only 36 teeth capacity


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

I made the switch to 29er wheels on my Fuse this week after a year on plus.

Plus tires are like a Jeep Wrangler. Not as fast but can crawl up and over anything. Also, they like to carve corners and carry corner speed vs just getting aggressive with them and squaring off turns. The less knobby rears are a little easier to ride like a regular tire.

29er wheels are like a high end sports car geared for the track. It won't be he most comfortable ride, but man is it agile and ready to respond when you push the pedals. It is a lot easier to handle these at speed with regard to commanding direction changes in a corner. Slideways! 1 ride in and I found a lot of speed and my preferred way of cornering.

Doing an enduro this weekend on it since my full sus'r went and broke. Will see what the clock says.

I'll keep both wheelsets, but the plus wheels will be collecting dust for most of the year. I kept killing rear tires and rims no matter what I did to mitigate it.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Let us know how the race goes. What tires are you running? 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

Wheelset: Raceface ARC27 laced to I9 hubs. 

Tires: I have a 2.5 DHF on the front and a 2.3 HR2 on the rear, both EXO casing. Flat tire defender in the rear. I have two Aggressors as well (exo and DD) to play with as well for the rear. It rained a lot these past couple days at the race venue, so should be interesting.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Nice. I almost grabbed that same wheelset for my Stumpy 6 Fattie but got nervous about the stock plus hubs and held off, since I prefer the sofa ride.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

oKayH said:


> I got a Fuse Expert last month. I have around 50 miles on it in a bit of everything now (east coast focused stuff here). I love the bike as a 2nd bike/B bike/Make-local-trails-that-are-boring-fun again bike.
> 
> I wanted to wait to let others be guinea pigs on what works best in the rim width department before investing in wheels, but the hubs on the bike are the weakest link to me. I have nice hubs on my Yeti SB66c and DJer. Looking to grab some closeout Hope 2 hubs and relace the i45 to them...
> View attachment 1049876


Fuse sizing suitable for longer legged people??

I'm 5'11" with rather long 34.5" inseam riding a Trance SX size Large (yes the same bike I can see in the background on that picture!) and wondering if I should get the Fuse in size M or L?

There are people with the same raw body height but shorter legs riding the Fuse in both M and L sizes, the M frame already looking a bit like a childrens bike on guys with a 33" inseam.

The Medium Fuse might be too short/low, the Large frame already too long. My long legs pretty much screw up the whole sizing scheme as it was the same issue with the 2017 Giant Trance frame. I cannot testride the Fuse and desperately need some solid opinions here as the order for either size has to be done within the next 72 hours or the bike will be sold to some other lucky guy.

What's your opinion?


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

slowisfast said:


> daughters new ride


Dad of the year!


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Large all the way. Im 5'10 with a 31" inseam and the large fits great. I run a 125mm dropper and a 50mm stem. Its very comfortable. 
With a 34.5" inseam you could run a 150mm dropper on a large, and maybe swap to a 40mm stem if you have a shorter torso and the reach feels a bit long. 
A medium is going to be way too small. My 5'4 wife rides a medium.


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

Steel Calf said:


> Fuse sizing suitable for longer legged people??
> 
> I'm 5'11" with rather long 34.5" inseam riding a Trance SX size Large (yes the same bike I can see in the background on that picture!) and wondering if I should get the Fuse in size M or L?
> 
> ...


5'10" 34" inseam. Tested the medium, felt really small. Ordered the large, great fit for me.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

ski1970 said:


> Good day. I am sorry but I do not have the time to reach the threads so her got with a question that has been a hundred times I am sure. I am 5'9" 5'10: on a good day with a 31 inseam. What size Fuse a med or a Large?


lazy bud. I actually read the whole thread and now 2 hours later I'm not any smarter than I was before.



Honda Guy said:


> I would suggest a medium. The fuse runs pretty true to size and the customers who are your height choose the medium fuse over the large after they take both for a quick spin.


You sound like an experienced guy (dealer/salesman) so your opinion should be more neutral and weighs more than that of others here although I dare to challenge you on your "true to size" assessment (see further below)

Well I'm slightly taller (5'10"-5'11") with far more inseam (34") than the customers you mentioned.
Which means my upper torso is actually shorter than that of a 5'9"-5'10" / 31" person.
However, longer legs could mean longer arms, I mean it's my hands making actual contact to the handlebars determining cockpit length, not my upper body. What now?



Mr. Lynch said:


> Large all the way. Im 5'10 with a 31" inseam and the large fits great. I run a 125mm dropper and a 50mm stem. Its very comfortable.
> With a 34.5" inseam you could run a 150mm dropper on a large, and maybe swap to a 40mm stem if you have a shorter torso and the reach feels a bit long.
> A medium is going to be way too small. My 5'4 wife rides a medium.


oh damn...
I could even run a 175mm dropper on the large frame, as it has the same seattube length like my 2015 Giant Trance has. Truth to be told, I sometimes wish for a smaller frame with more standover on my current bike to be able to drop the saddle even lower when riding nasty stuff and the Fuse size L frame has got even less standover than my current Trance which lures me towards the medium. On the other hand I don't wanna be stuck on a "women's sized bike".



WMBigs said:


> 5'10" 34" inseam. Tested the medium, felt really small. Ordered the large, great fit for me.


thanks. Although judging by the numbers alone (reach/stack), the sizing runs on the bigger side (you've to factor in the huge stack numbers before comparing reach numbers with others brands, I may post the math later on)

I wish people in such threads would think more ahead and automatically add their height and inseam in their write up when showing off their bike to help others with sizing (or just put these measurements in their signature)


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

Following up on the enduro. Got 4th without pre-riding the course. Regular 29er wheels on east coast rocks. They are faster, at least for me they are.



Steel Calf said:


> Fuse sizing suitable for longer legged people??
> 
> I'm 5'11" with rather long 34.5" inseam riding a Trance SX size Large (yes the same bike I can see in the background on that picture!) and wondering if I should get the Fuse in size M or L?
> 
> ...


Long ass legs haha. I'd rather put a short stem on a long frame than a long stem on a short frame. I like gravity though, keep that in mind. Rider of that Trance got rid of that large frame for an XL. 6'1" and felt he was put too high on the large frame vs "in the bike."

I have a similar inseam but 6'3". XL frame and 50mm stem. Perfect for me.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

oKayH said:


> View attachment 1049876


actually when looking at this picture standover height and overall height of the large Fuse frame look terrible compared to the large Giant Trance frame right behind...

I think I'd use the Fuse primarily as a fun bike for riding in steep, technical terrain. There are many situations where the long seat tube on my Trance is in the way (I use a 150mm dropper and additionally drop it all the way into the frame for 180mm drop but that isn't always enough)


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## BCsaltchucker (Jan 16, 2014)

I got the Fuse XXL, I am 6 3. I really really like having long reach, which in the past would mean a stem of 130-140mm long. BUt for a trail bike a 70mm stem means I need more frame geo reach, and teh XXL is about the longest Plus bike reach in the industry (it's also why I chose the Devinci Marshall over the FSR plus bike for my full sus bike). 

Standover for me on the Fuse is not an issue.

could definitely use a 150mm+ dropper on everything! still a fair amt of room to fit a long dropper on both my bikes. I am thrilled to have such reliable dropper posts to begin with, as I rode mtn bikes for 30 years prior to the advent of good dropper posts.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

I can fit a 150mm on my Fuse but only have a 125mm because I am cheap. The standover height has never been a thought in my mind regarding limitations on any newer bike.


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Anyone have a take off OEM rear wheel for the one year old Fuse Comp? What I'm looking for is the wheelset that had WTB scaper 45 rims and spec. hub. 10 speed.

A stick kicked up through mine and its toast. Looking for new not really used, as we all know the stout spec hubs don't always last.



Only need the rear wheel.

or anyone know of a low cost replacement?

Thanks


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

rushman3 said:


> Anyone have a take off OEM rear wheel for the one year old Fuse Comp? What I'm looking for is the wheelset that had WTB scaper 45 rims and spec. hub. 10 speed.
> 
> A stick kicked up through mine and its toast. Looking for new not really used, as we all know the stout spec hubs don't always last.
> 
> ...


The stock hubs are crap, and known to fail. How low cost? You can get a really nice wheel for 300 bucks. Much cheaper, and you may not be getting a good value.


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Fastbanana,

Ya, your right the stock hub is crap. If you know of any options in the 300-400 dollar range let me know.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I have a brand new set off a 2016 Ruze I bought for my wife. I swapped the wheelset when I bought it. I'd let them go fairly cheap, just shoot me a PM if your interested. Its identical to the 2016 Fuse wheelset (WTB Scrapper, shimano freehub)


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Lynch, Thanks sent a PM to you


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## nmeofun (Jul 20, 2012)

fmf979 said:


> Thanks for replying but my question is what derailer I can replace my damaged x7 with? The cassette is still good. Do you know if the 10 speed long cage gx will work even though it says only 36 teeth capacity


I'm not sure about the SRAM ders. I replaced mine w/ a Shimano XT from another bike and I used a Wolftooth goat link on the derailer to allow for the larger cog size.

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/goatlink


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

*I could get a new 2017 Fuse Comp for 700$ from my dealer.*

However, I'm not sure what that Franksteinbike, no matter how cheap it is, is actually good for. Now let me elaborate why I call it that based on what I read in this thread:

*I assess the lowest climbing gear @30/40 to be insufficient on a bike that comes with wheels with the outer diameter of a 29" but 30% more rotating weight*. That's a lot of weight, right there where you feel it the most. On a 29er, I need a 30/46 gear to compensate for the bigger wheels alone compared to a 27.5. Now factor in the additional weight and the 30/40 climbing gear is more of a joke.

So even though *the gearing range of the 1x10 transmission is hardly enough to make it up a mountain*, an upgrade for a wider range cassette with bigger 46T cog is complicated as Specialized conveniently opted for a 10speed drivetrain which limits cassette choices. I would at least have to upgrade shifter and rear derailleur to 11 speed to be able to run a sunrace 11-46 cassette. Even worse, the stock crankset comes with a handy 76bcd so only expensive and hard to source 76bcd chainrings like Sram XX1 will fit. This is not stupid but just plain evil.

From what I read, *the bearings of the "Stout" rear hub are shot in no time* and rebuilding the wheel with it's "heavy as lead" WTB scrapper i45 rims isn't worth it either. The headset comes installed without any grease (completly dry), so I'll have to take it apart and fill it up with grease before water gets sucked into the bearings. Same with bottom bracket.

One could argue if a slightly narrower tire like 2.6/2.8 with a lighter wheelset would've been a better choice in the first place for this bike as gains in tire traction and comfort of wide tires are hindered by diminishing returns while weight and intertia grow exponentially.

However, just putting on narrower tires lowers the bike which brings us to another issue,

the *low bottom bracket*. It's soo low that many users already complain about it with the stock tires mounted, I'm aware that a 0.2" narrower tire doesn't translate into a 0.2" lower tire but still you're worsening the issue, not improving on it.

*Furthermore, narrower tires like 2.6" are already too narrow for the wide 45mm rims*, the tire sidewalls get too exposed as get the rims themselves, both prone to damage.

Oh by the way, I read mixed reports about the fork, well it's a suntour, not exactly the pinacle of suspension technology around.

I find it unbelieveable that people bought this bike for 1600$ just to upgrade wheels, suspension and drivetrain. Maybe that's why I can get it soo cheap?

*Now tell me Fuse lovers, am I missing something?

I don't wanna be stuck on a bike that's sucking all the energy out of my legs due to heavy wheels with insufficient gears where components (cassette, chainring, tires) are impossible to be upgraded individually and service is basically needed right after I left the store. Not sure if the offer is still worth it with the added cost of a 29er wheelset (wheels, tires, discs, cassette)

So why the heck should I get this bike that is based on a tire concept that might well be dead in 1-2 years?*


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## nmeofun (Jul 20, 2012)

Don't buy it. You said it all. You did all the work to prove it's not for you, so why even ask the question?


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Your missing the #1 factor FUN!
You dont buy a Fuse (or any plus bike for that matter) to KOM climbs on strava, and if you buy a 2017 or a better model 2016 you dont need to upgrade parts so much.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

Steel Calf:

That's a lot of analysis on the bike. Have you ridden it outside of a parking lot demo ride yet?

I bought the Fuse as a do it all hardtail to keep local trails fresh and as a backup bike when I break my full squisher. I've done everything on it from buff rolling single track, long 30+ mile XC rides, mellow lines on dirt jumps, shuttle DH runs on rocky stuff with gap jumps, and enduro races. I have plus wheels and as of last week 29er wheels. While the only thing stock on my bike is the seat and frame, I wouldn't change a thing. It checks all my boxes.

My bike is kinda heavy for a hardtail, but I don't worry about it breaking while hucking off stuff or doing dumb things. That's more important in my book.

Lots of good options out there if you don't want to buy a Fuse. But at $700 brand new for a complete bike, id buy it, sell everything as a new takeoff, and build it back up how I wanted it.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

nmeofun said:


> Don't buy it. You said it all. You did all the work to prove it's not for you, so why even ask the question?


Good question.
Well maybe I'm asking myself, if it's such a **** bike "on paper" how come so many people are in this thread?


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

oKayH said:


> That's a lot of analysis on the bike. Have you ridden it outside of a parking lot demo ride yet?


To be honest, I haven't ridden the bike at all! No first hand experience!
Should've pointed that out more clearly!

I did extensive research though which also included reading the whole thread.

I also rode all three plus tire sizes (2.6 / 2.8 / 3.0) last year and got hocked on 2.6. I remember 3.0 being quite of a burden to ride with superfluous advantages over 2.6 but significantly more drag, many companies have since then downsized their plus bikes to 2.8 and 2.6, Specialized has merged the Stumpjumper 6fattie with the 29er thus eliminating the individual product line it just created the year before. Now they're selling off the Fuse - not wanna catch a falling knife here.

Market data aside, even though my first impression was less than stellar, maybe it just takes more time to get fully hooked on 3.0" tires, like cigarettes?

The dealer hasn't got the bike yet but there's a test event tomorrow - I hope they got it.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

oKayH said:


> But at $700 brand new for a complete bike, id buy it, sell everything as a new takeoff, and build it back up how I wanted it.


good point. Very good point. I can see you're on 29er wheels with thinner tires.

Do you feel relieved after having switched from 27.5x3.0" to 29x2.4" tires, like a burden was taken off your shoulders?

The frame looks a bit strange with 29er wheels to me, I wonder if 29x2.6 tires would still fit?


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

It's honestly just different. 

I haven't ran 3.0 since last March. I've been using 2.8 plus tires. They are good but expensive and I kept destroying tires. $$$. Scroll up, I just posted last week what I thought about both sizes. 

29x2.6 would probably barely clear, and rub under hard cornering. Don't have one to test fit, though. 

All I can add is that the 29er wheels on this bike rip. I'm already starting to get side knobs close to tearing off from how agile this thing is. It carves corners and inspires confidence. 

I'll keep the plus wheels for the crappy weather season. They work great then and full fat bikes aren't fun to me anyway.


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

Yes, you're missing something. It's a fun bike to ride. 
I'm speaking from the '16 Expert, and I've replaced the BB with a Wheels and the bar with narrower carbon (because narrower carbon) and the crankset with X1 (Because carbon) and the dropper (because TransX is unserviceable broken #$$%) and I'm building wheels because carbon and Sram 900. I changed the saddle to a WTB Pure. 
I like the 3" tire, everywhere, all season. Hard packed snow at 11psi, loose stuff at 6. 
The Scraper rim isn't that heavy, not much heavier (+150g) than the Nexties I'm building. I've heard the hubs have a poor reputation, but they haven't crapped out on me after a full year of snow and trails. 
I like the geometry, including the lower BB. Sure, you have to watch your pedals and chainring, but it feels good. 
That's why I ride any bike- because it feels good. 
I rented a carbon 29er FS mule out in Scottsdale last year. Great bike, light and plush, but in loose rock, 2.3" tires suck. Sure, now and then the rear shock was nice, but I'd rather have a low-pressure gripper back there. 

So ride one. 
Ride a Pony Rustler, a Marquette, a Stache, a Fuse, a Stumpy. See what you think. 

I've been generous with my bike at the trails, saying "Here, try it". 
My brother went the Bad Habit route. My uncle might replace that sweet Spearfish. 

Maybe they're too slow for XC racing, but they sure are fun. 
Oh, I'm racing with mine tomorrow. I won't be last.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

I tried a Specialized Levo HT 6fattie in size Large today which shares the exact same geometry with the Fuse frame.










With my measurements of:

180cm height / 88cm inseam
5'11" height / 34.5" inseam

the frame in size L fit me perfectly. If I could be 100% sure that both frames have the exact same geometry as stated on the website I would order the bike right now.

However, I discovered that the official effective top tube measurement according to Specialized website of 633mm for the Levo HT size L frame is incorrect, the actual length I measured myself is around 615mm (I measured exactly like shown below, horizontal distance center headtube to center seatpost)

Given that both the Levo HT and Fuse share the same geometry I wonder if the Fuse frame is also 20mm shorter than what Specialized states on their website.
If it's not I may have a problem.

Maybe someone here on a Fuse Size L frame would be so kind to measure the effective top tube like shown below:


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## sorny (May 6, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> Even worse, the stock crankset comes with a handy 76bcd so only expensive and hard to source 76bcd chainrings like Sram XX1 will fit. This is not stupid but just plain evil.


Sure, in terms of variety 76bcd is bad. But Garbaruk got your back and offers standard and oval chainrings for 40-60€.
Switch to a 28 oval chainring, should climb well.

I agree with your that the overall components are pretty low standard... Paid 600€ for a Fuse Comp 2016, cant complain 

First I thought about throwing everything out. The makeover would be too expensive (fork, fox transfer seatpost, 1x11 SRAM X1 drivetrain, new 38mm width rims, hope hubs etc).
Changed my mind and ll go the lazy route: Gonna replace things if they break


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

Steel Calf said:


> I tried a Specialized Levo HT 6fattie in size Large today which shares the exact same geometry with the Fuse frame.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


632mm for the large 2016 Fuse by my measurement. Fork fully extended of course.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

WMBigs said:


> 632mm for the large 2016 Fuse by my measurement. Fork fully extended of course.


thanks. That basically means that the Turbo Levo HT 6fattie in size Large is indeed smaller than the Fuse size Large (although same geometry numbers on website) and thus not a viable reference.

Now I'm back to square one...


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## metaljim (Apr 22, 2009)

Wolftooth also makes chainrings that will fit the Stout cranks.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Fuse 2016 vs 2017 (= 2018 in europe)

I just discovered that while we're are still stuck on a Fuse model in Europe that is more or less like the past 2016 US model the US actually got a Fuse Comp for 2017 that basically irons out all the issues I had with the original concept as summed up here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=13155766

most important changes:

- Manitou fork instead of Suntour
- dropper post with 20mm more drop
- higher Quality rear hub (sealed bearings vs. loose bearings)
- 11 speed drive train with slightly wider cassette and smaller chainring front, offering now an adequate 28/42 climbing gear for the big wheels
- a much lighter, narrower 38mm wheelset that will work much better with 2.6 tires
- A NEW FRAME with revised geometry and raised bottom bracket that increases compatability with smaller 2.6" tires so you're not running into ground clearance issues that will trigger pedal strikes

Especially the last three changes are a huge welcome as they give the original 3.0" Plus bike concept a much broader field of use, I can now quickly swap to lighter tires or put on a 11-50 cassette for a multi day trek while still beeing able to run 3.0" tires in winter or just for maximum fun when riding on the trail.

I think with the improvements in place the bike will gain more universal appeal and should also convince people like me who had worries about being stuck on a bike with heavy 3.0" tires.

My predicament is - I can now either buy the "old" model for a steal or wait for the new model to arrive in Europe (probably in the next two months) - but pay twice.

Given that the old model + the upgrades I see necessary (wheels+tires, drivetrain) will probably cost me more than the new one would in the first place while I'll still be stuck on a frame with a low bottom bracket and mediocre fork I'll probably better wait for the the new model to arrive.


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

Steel Calf said:


> good point. Very good point. I can see you're on 29er wheels with thinner tires.
> 
> Do you feel relieved after having switched from 27.5x3.0" to 29x2.4" tires, like a burden was taken off your shoulders?
> 
> The frame looks a bit strange with 29er wheels to me, I wonder if 29x2.6 tires would still fit?


Gypsy By Trade fit 29 x 2.6 on his partner's Fuse HT, on which she promptly set 11.5 day record on a Mexico tour. I wish he clearly described clearance, but he did not. Check it out. Sorry, no handy link. Scroll down his home page a bit.

If someone gets hard data (images, dimensions, both) about rear tire clearance, please post same here. She tossed her Pro model stock fork, of course.


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

Steel Calf,
Thanks for the very helpful data, 2017 v 2016 Comp USA model changes. 

Is it possible to fit a super wide 11-50 casette on the 2017 USA Comp?


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

ro7939 said:


> Is it possible to fit a super wide 11-50 casette on the 2017 USA Comp?


yes, Sram 11speed X-Horizon type derailleurs can clear the 50t cog of the sunrace 11-50 cassette


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

ro7939 said:


> If someone gets hard data (images, dimensions, both) about rear tire clearance, please post same here.


In this very thread there's pictures that show that 29x2.6 do fit


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

Edit: Just realized steel calf was talking 700 euros, not usd.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Honda Guy said:


> $700 for a 2017 Fuse Comp? I call bs on whoever posted that.


haha...
actually it's closer to 660$ but didn't want to hurt anyone's feeling here...
https://www.bike24.de/1.php?content=8;product=141156

(it's a real deal, they're emptying their warehouse thus blowing out the left over bikes with 60% discount)

...smoking values?
Well I've ordered two but still debating whether the bike is actually worth it considering all the upgrades I see necessary from my armchair engineer point of view...

And as I said before in my above post, the 2017 European model is basically a 2016 US model, take a look on the Specialized Germany website before calling that BS either


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Honda Guy said:


> Edit: Just realized steel calf was talking 700 euros, not usd.


nope it's actually 600 euros which equals 660$


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

They did the same thing with the women version, the Ruze. They made way too many and basically carried over the 2016 as 2017 models. nothing changed.

The OEM Suntour fork is surprisingly decent. Its an air spring with aluminum stanchions and while not the lightest or most fancy, it isnt something you feel the need to rip off the bike 5 minutes into the ride. 

For BB height, it really isnt bad. I'm running 2.8s (with a 140mm Pike) so my bb is right aroaund stock height and I dont notice a ton of pedal strikes. On paper it is much lower than say a stumpjumper, but since a Fuse is a hardtail you dont get any sag in the rear so it is actually higher than a lot of full squish bikes under load.


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

FYI: I am virtually positive, if the EU dealer ships to the USA, and obeys shipper/import regulations (e.g. fills out proper and required legal documentation), buyers must prepare to write a check to the shipper, who collects a so-called "broker fee" which they forward to USA Customs (tariff).

I routinely import and write such checks. I wrote a check yesterday for $39 to UPS for electronics from the Netherlands valued around $900 (tariff rate about 4%). I have absolutely no idea the rate for bicycles. Anyone?

In a few cases I received broker fee in the mail one-two weeks after merchandise arrived. Beware the shipper collects this bill on behalf of the US Federal Government. Let us know how it works out if you toss the bill in the non-recirculating file. 

I presume in the USA this bike is considered gray market, zero warranty, not that that should deter anyone considering it's about half dealer cost, albeit on equivalent 2016 USA model with a host of "differences" listed by SC (thank you SC). 

If the shipper ignores and/or violates US import regulations, all bets off above. Shipping, even via BikeFlights, estimate $500 from EU to USA. Shipping might also be taxed under USA Tariff fee. This looks more and more like an EU deal only to me, bad value for USA.


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Mr Lynch

Is your offer of the stock OEM Ruze wheels still good?

Thanks, Gary


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

Moderator, please immediately delete this and spank me as needed. Sorry if this offends readers.

2016 Fuse Comp OEM tires on front/rear wheel set. Tires have very good tread. Rims straight, no dings. Did not need it, but just trued by Joy Ride Bikes, Logan, UT. 

Specialized OEM tires have excellent tread, but Dylan at JR inspected both wheels today and agrees the tread weaves L/R at speed. Both wheel assemblies are perfect. Bearings fine, dead quiet, no drag, etc. Dylan is surprised I noticed the weave, but I did, so "there we are" as my aunt Celia used to say. Not felt on the trail, but I ride a lot on pavement and corner hard. 

$225/pr and I'll ship today. I have USPS vendor 10% discount. For quickest delivery, IMO the best bet is for me to bring the wheels/tires to my local FX one mile N. The USU co-eds at FX are thorough and meticulous, packed safely for me many times, and barely charge more than materials cost.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

ro7939 said:


> This looks more and more like an EU deal only to me, bad value for USA.


nope. Look at the spec of our Fuse Comp and compare it with the US. You get what you pay for, they're not giving them away for nothing.


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

Steel Calf said:


> nope. Look at the spec of our Fuse Comp and compare it with the US. You get what you pay for, they're not giving them away for nothing.


$660 bike + $550 BikeFlights (I priced about three weeks ago) = $1210 + unknown USA Customs Tariff = X. Add for insurance unless your crystal ball says no, estimate $50. We're at $1260 not counting unknown import tariff.

Some USA dealer might charge only a little more than that for a 2017 with the nice upgrades you listed above (thanks again) and a warranty. Doubtful the EU bike has a warranty. It's a gray market item.

I just bought a nice used 2016 Comp w/$550 upgrades ($2050 new SRP) for $1250. I suggest you accurate identify the USA Customs Tariff, list a link for same, then readers can decide how good is the price of the EU bike + all the associated fees. It's gonna be double the cost in EU, don't you agree?

BTW, I imported tens of thousands of dollars of merchandise from world over. If USA buyer thinks Sam is not gonna collect a tariff for this bike, I'll bet you a pair of tires that's dead wrong. Your gonna pay a tariff on this. If you get away with defrauding Sam, and Sam finds out, the original tariff shall be a picnic because Sam is gonna put some pain into your year you are not gonna forget. Fines and penalties shall be epic.

Sam shall laugh at you when you point blame to the EU dealer for not filling out the proper documentation, again, if they find out. It's the law whether you know it or not.

Tip: if you buy this bike and don't pay the tariff, never, ever, ever disclose to anyone the source of the bike. Of course, there's a permanent record for eternity of money changing hands, but just keep it to yourself. All it takes is one wrong pair of ears to make you have a bad year (not a bad day or month).


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

ro7939 said:


> $660 bike + $550 BikeFlights (I priced about three weeks ago) = $1210 + unknown USA Customs Tariff = X. Add for insurance unless your crystal ball says no, estimate $50. We're at $1260 not counting unknown import tariff.
> 
> Some USA dealer might charge only a little more than that for a 2017 with the nice upgrades you listed above (thanks again) and a warranty.


What I meant is that the bike is cheap in absolute numbers but the 2017 US model has much better spec which kinda justifies the huge price difference IMO so you're not missing out on anything here. I'd actually rather have the US model myself and pay more as buying a cheap bike which I consider spec wise as a compromise.

I ordered two myself (1 for riding, 1 as spare) and shall receive them end of this month if I don't cancel the order before.


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

SC,
You're in Europe, right?


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

ro7939 said:


> SC,
> You're in Europe, right?


yes I'm from Austria, like stated in my user profile. Why is everyone automatically assuming I'm from the US here


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

Steel Calf said:


> yes I'm from Austria, like stated in my user profile. Why is everyone automatically assuming I'm from the US here


I knew you were in Europe, just confirming the obvious. I searched for your geographic location and did not find it in your Profile.

I am familiar with a not so great habit of some fellow Americans viewing the world through USA-colored glasses. I deal with persons in my business from all over the globe, have made internet friends with persons in Africa, Europe (esp. Poland, Germany, Norway, England), Asia, Singapore, Thailand, etc, etc, etc. I never presume someone's country of origin.

One of my best clients in Norway owns our speaker system valued around $13k.

Thanks again for your great post on the USA Comp upgrades for 2017.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Hello I read a lot of positive feedback about the use of longer 140/150mm forks on the Fuse. Please note that the Fuse 2017 model got a new frame with more clearance so improvements in bottom bracket height are more relevant to Fuse 2015-2016 owners.

I called Manitou today and was told it is indeed possible to pump the travel of the Manitou Magnum Comp+ fork from 120 to 140mm. However I wasn't told if I need to buy the 140mm airshaft assembly as listed in the explosion view of this pdf:

https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Magnum-Comp-Service-Guide-REV2.1.pdf

Did any of the Fuse Expert owners here ever tried this? The procedure is similar to other Manitou forks and can be googled online.

I also called Suntour Europe and was told it is not possible to raise the travel of the Raidon+ forks specced on the Fuse comp, so the bottom bracket issue can only be fixed on the Fuse Expert model.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Mr. Lynch said:


> Large all the way. Im 5'10 with a 31" inseam and the large fits great. I run a 125mm dropper and a 50mm stem. Its very comfortable.
> With a 34.5" inseam you could run a 150mm dropper on a large, and maybe swap to a 40mm stem if you have a shorter torso and the reach feels a bit long.
> A medium is going to be way too small. My 5'4 wife rides a medium.





WMBigs said:


> 5'10" 34" inseam. Tested the medium, felt really small. Ordered the large, great fit for me.


*I could actually testride the Fuse Comp and Fuse Expert in both framsizes today.
*

I'm 5'11" with 34.5" inseam.

Before entering the store I was ready to order the Expert model in size Large but ended up with the Comp model in size Medium. How come?

*Components:*
The Suntour Raidon fork on the cheaper Comp model outclasses the Manitou Magnum fork on the Expert model so much that it's almost embarassing. Sorry Manitou but your fork is ****! (I actually had two different testbikes of each fork to make that assessment)

The Expert model also comes with some Sram DB3 brakes which are still based on their old "Taperbore" technology - yes the type of lever technology that eventually made Sram drop the Avid brand off his brakes after years of struggling to make these brakes work. The TRP brakes on the Comp appear to be of much higher quality, the bite point is better and the lever feels more ergonomic. Oh by the way the red colour of the Comp is just a knockout!

*Frame Sizing*
Let's face it: On the Fuse size L I've less standover height than I have over the toptube of my Kona Rove ST which is a Gravelbike!
I don't want to bust my balls on the trail so that alone is kind of a "knock out criteria" for the Large frame. Furthermore the frame feels too long, I did fit much better on the medium frame with a slightly longer 60mm stem and a handlebar with less backsweep and 20mm rise.

I also did the math and compared raw geometry numbers of my current bike, a Giant Trance SX size L, the Fuse size M is indeed much closer to my size L Trance than the size L Fuse is. I know I contradict the majority of riders here but there's no way the size L would have fit me. It's too long, the toptube is too high and the bike feels more like a truck with thick tires. That's my final assessment after 2 hours in total with both framesizes.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Perfect example why people should test ride and not listen to idiots on the internet!

My only real complain about the large is how tall it is. I actually like the look and clearance on the Ruze much better! It looks like a Stumpjumper.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> *I could actually testride the Fuse Comp and Fuse Expert in both framsizes today.
> *
> 
> I'm 5'11" with 34.5" inseam.
> ...


I must admit, the first time I rode the Manitou magnum I was a bit confused. It wasn't until I did my research and returned to the shop with knowledge of the fork and a shock pump in hand. First things first, the 34mm magnum is not an xc fork, it is a progressive trail fork tuned for plus bikes with attitude. The tire is supposed to absorb the small hits and the fork will take care of the left over gnar. You will be hard pressed to bottom this fork out unless you are hitting some serious ****. That said, the radion is a flexy piece of **** tard that bottoms out on a mediocre bunny hop and is likely to put one in the hospital.. I get it, it feels more plush and uses all the travel in the parking lot, but at the end of the day it will leave you wanting more and limit the frames capability. The magnum on the other hand only gets better as the oil seals get broken in and you start upping the pressure. I started at -20 psi from recommended pressure when brand new. Don't get me wrong, it's no high end pro, pike, or kashima but it gets the job done. The 16 fuse with its low bottom bracket, short stays, and slack head tube is designed to be taken down some serious trail. There is a reason they pussified the 17 model, appeal to the masses.. If you seek intermediate trail or lots of up hill battles search else where or you will be disappointed with pedal strikes, wandering front ends, and lots of unused potential suspension travel, maybe the 18 model will come with a 100mm sid, a pair of carbon cranks, and ikon 2.8s.. Im sure that will feell great. Radion better tham the magnum? Give me a break.. Thats like saying a ground beef patty is better than a T-bone steak.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Look I'm just posting my observations based on the four bikes I tried where two of them had the Magnum fork while the other two came with the Suntour. The way how the Suntour outperformed the Manitou fork surprised me a lot as I was already prepared to order the Expert model with the "better" manitou fork.

Interestingly enough the mechanic of the store said something similar along the lines so that's not just my opinion here.

Of course I had my shock pump with me and lowered the air pressure all the way to the lowest setting of 70psi to see if it improves the situation, playing with rebound and low speed compression knob too, it's not my first test ride you know. 

No offense meant but if you don't even have a shock pump @home and need to return to the store for that I doubt you're in a position to challenge my competence here, just saying the Manitou is better than the Suntour based on the name alone is not very reasonable.


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## motosonic (Mar 6, 2017)

I've been test riding the Fuse Comp and the Fuse Sport.. and trying to read what everyone here has been saying.. But, folks keep mentioning the Manitou Magnum and the 2017 Fuse (Comp) is built with the Manitou machete. Just wondering if anyone has this particular version and how they like it? I've tried to go through the 21 pages here, but I really didn't find anything.. I'm a MTB newbie, so I'm trying to find a bike that's good for me that I won't outgrow in a few months.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

motosonic said:


> I've been test riding the Fuse Comp and the Fuse Sport.


I only know these two bikes from the website as they're not available in Europe but picking the more expensive Fuse Comp over the Fuse Sport is a no brainer IMO:

Fuse Comp: Better frame with slacker geometry and thru axle rear, Dropper post, better brakes, 11speed drive train (you can upgrade the cassette to 11-50 without further modifications needed), better fork as the Suntour XCR on the Fuse Comp as this is a **** fork IMO (not to confuse with the Suntour Raidon!)

Just to be clear: Every fork is better than a Suntour XCR, even a "Manitou Machete"

you must be very desperate to give away all these better components including a better frame just to save 300 bucks


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## motosonic (Mar 6, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> I only know these two bikes from the website as they're not available in Europe but picking the more expensive Fuse Comp over the Fuse Sport is a no brainer IMO:
> 
> Fuse Comp: Better frame with slacker geometry and thru axle rear, Dropper post, better brakes, 11speed drive train (you can upgrade the cassette to 11-50 without further modifications needed), better fork as the Suntour XCR on the Fuse Comp as this is a **** fork IMO (not to confuse with the Suntour Raidon!)
> 
> ...


Oh I'm not really considering the Sport at all. I'm looking at the Comp at the moment, but, I've read a bunch of people on this thread complaining about the Manitou fork... but, they only mention the "Magnum" not the Machete. Just wondering if the Machete is any better? or should I try to upgrade to the expert (which is an additional $500, so $2000 with the Rock Shox Reba fork).


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

motosonic said:


> people on this thread....
> 
> ...only mention the "Magnum" not the Machete.
> 
> Just wondering if the Machete is any better?


too bad. You're feeling unlucky today?

You know I'm a simple man of average intelligence but sometimes I feel as if I've indeed a superior intellect cause in such a case, when I'm unsure how a component is performing, I don't stand still in vain hope of someone reporting but instead google it AND READ WHAT OTHERS HAVE SAY.

Think about it, the Fuse is not the only bike that comes stock with this fork so there are other places on the Internets to read about it. Hell, there are threads about the Machete in this very forum!

From my experience with a Levo HT 6fattie last week I wouldn't want the Reba fork either, better buy the Comp and upgrade the Machete later if you feel necessary.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> Look I'm just posting my observations based on the four bikes I tried where two of them had the Magnum fork while the other two came with the Suntour. The way how the Suntour outperformed the Manitou fork surprised me a lot as I was already prepared to order the Expert model with the "better" manitou fork.
> 
> Interestingly enough the mechanic of the store said something similar along the lines so that's not just my opinion here.
> 
> ...


70 psi is your problem. Way too much pressure for the fork brand new unless you are very heavy. Should be around 40 - 50 psi. The fork was probably still too stiff. Even at those low pressures with a kick of compression damping dialed in it will still be tough to bottom out. It's hard to JUDGE a bike at a bike store with salesmen around..

And leave my shock pump out of this, it has nothing to do with you!


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

I must say though, I don't think anyone loves the magnum when they first try it out. It took me much longer to dial in than any fork I have forked before.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> 70 psi is your problem. Way too much pressure for the fork
> 
> And leave my shock pump out of this, it has nothing to do with you!


70psi is "not my problem" with you not even knowing my weight and riding style. Sorry but I won't get lectured about setting up a fork by a noob who doesn't even own a shockpump.

And I didn't have a salesman around, I was riding and setting up the bike myself.

In fact with 70psi, which was way below my weight, the fork felt too soft but still not really plush, like a component that needs to be convinced to work. Same thing on the other bike, would've been a huge coincidence to get two faulty forks on one day?

I tried many bikes with different forks over the years and always try to set them up the best way possible but that Manitou fork just wouldn't deliver. Remember I primarily went into the store checking the size, the fork was just an afterthought.

In fact one of the shop owners told me that he's amazed that Manitou is still in business after all these years and doesn't understand why Specialized is speccing these forks on their bikes.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> 70psi is "not my problem" with you not even knowing my weight and riding style. Sorry but I won't get lectured about setting up a fork by a noob who doesn't even own a shockpump.
> 
> And I didn't have a salesman around, I was riding and setting up the bike myself.
> 
> ...


Did I say I didn't have a shock pump? NO, quit flying off half cocked. My original reference to a shock pump was to illustrate the fact that fork needs effort to get dialed in, as do all. It sounds like you and the shop you frequent dislike Manitou. They happen to be a popular brand in my area.

That said, if I were in the market for a fuse today I would get the 16 comp in red or white for 1,099 or less on close out. Throw on a set of hopes laced to ARC 40's and swap the Radion for a YARI 130. Cost would be around 2K and the performance would be significantly better than the new Expert model.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> I must say though, I don't think anyone loves the magnum when they first try it out. It took me much longer to dial in than any fork I have forked before.


maybe. I haven't ridden many Manitou forks over the years, most test bikes these days are usually specced with Fox/Rock Shox and they work "out of the box". Saying that the Manitou is great but you need to break it in first sounds kinda reasonable but why should I cope with a product from a looser company like Manitou when I can have a fork that works better from the start.


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## motosonic (Mar 6, 2017)

[email protected] said:


> Did I say I didn't have a shock pump? NO, quit flying off half cocked. My original reference to a shock pump was to illustrate the fact that fork needs effort to get dialed in, as do all. It sounds like you and the shop you frequent dislike Manitou. They happen to be a popular brand in my area.
> 
> That said, if I were in the market for a fuse today I would get the 16 comp in red or white for 1,099 or less on close out. Throw on a set of hopes laced to ARC 40's and swap the Radion for a YARI 130. Cost would be around 2K and the performance would be significantly better than the new Expert model.


I'll have to see if I can even find a 2016 anywhere. The shop I went to last night didn't have any and they have 4 shops with a pretty big inventory.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> That said, if I were in the market for a fuse today I would get the 16 comp in red or white for 1,099 or less on close out. Throw on a set of hopes laced to ARC 40's and swap the Radion for a YARI 130. Cost would be around 2K and the performance would be significantly better than the new Expert model.


Good point. I'm thinking about the same, the Yari fork would raise the bottom bracket a bit, just enough to compensate for lower 2.8" tires.


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

I was ready to hate the Manitou, because it's not Fox. After about 600 trail miles, I really like it. It's stout- the crank should be called "Hefty"- without being stupid heavy, and with the right pressure the clicker is all I need to adjust for trails. Well, and the right tire pressure. It's a great adjustable fork that hasn't puked its guts out and doesn't buckle under pressure. I'll probably keep it when I unload the bike for something Carbon. 
Why Spech chose it? Price for features, I'm sure- but it's the best part of the bike so far. 

Forget it- you know what you're doing, you'll be happy with whatever you choose.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

motosonic said:


> I'll have to see if I can even find a 2016 anywhere. The shop I went to last night didn't have any and they have 4 shops with a pretty big inventory.


Damn, there are 6 here in Austin size M, L and XL just chilling.. If only I could have waited a little longer. No red ones though, so I'm not that upset about it.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

I'm not a Specialized fanboy and don't ride any of their bikes yet but the red coloured 2016 Fuse is probably the most beautiful frame I've ever seen. It's really hard to make a picture that accurately shows the colour.


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## a3purren (Jul 22, 2016)

Steel Calf said:


> I'm not a Specialized fanboy and don't ride any of their bikes yet but the red coloured 2016 Fuse is probably the most beautiful frame I've ever seen. It's really hard to make a picture that accurately shows the colour.












Agreed

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I have the same red Fuse and I get tons of positive comments on its looks. Thinking about big upgrades (carbon wheels, Pike fork, 1x11 drivetrain, etc.) instead of buying a higher end HT + bike.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

I ordered the Fuse Comp in M and L size now and will probably sell the components of one bike but keep the frame


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## WHOAA (Mar 28, 2014)

oKayH said:


> I made the switch to 29er wheels on my Fuse this week after a year on plus.
> 
> Plus tires are like a Jeep Wrangler. Not as fast but can crawl up and over anything. Also, they like to carve corners and carry corner speed vs just getting aggressive with them and squaring off turns. The less knobby rears are a little easier to ride like a regular tire.
> 
> ...


You got a picture from the front so I can see the gap? Rear also if possible.


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## Darthlindz (Apr 25, 2015)

get the specialized keg and the mtb bandit. Works perfect for me.


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## Darthlindz (Apr 25, 2015)

Messed up replying to a post above,sorry guys. Anyways, has any one tired out 2.8 tires on the fuse? I plan on giong on a downiville trip this summer and I'm going to need a beefer tire for those trails.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

WHOAA said:


> You got a picture from the front so I can see the gap? Rear also if possible.


Rear is a 2.3 HR2 on a 27 inner width rim.

Front is just a standard 29er 2.5 in a 29/27.5+ fork.


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## Ramia (Apr 2, 2017)

*Fuse Comp 2017 chainring*



ArchieTolliver said:


> Yes, that should fit fine.


Thanks it works fine, the stout crank spider 76bcd its a little bit wide (+/- 1 mm) but with press fits perfectly, the stock bolts are small but with loctite blue threadlocker seals good... xx1 chainring on stout crank spider is possible...


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## aGrower (May 15, 2017)

I have a fuse with the 76 bcd stout crank, does anyone know the biggest chainring which fits? 32 or maybe 34


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## Ramia (Apr 2, 2017)

aGrower said:


> I have a fuse with the 76 bcd stout crank, does anyone know the biggest chainring which fits? 32 or maybe 34


I think 32t its the max

Enviado desde mi FRD-L04 mediante Tapatalk


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## reig3 (Apr 24, 2012)

I don't know if bigger than 32t will fit but Wolf Tooth has a direct replacement in 30t and 32t.

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/76-bcd-chainrings

I bought the 32t and will see how that works for me. I replaced the stock chain with a Shimano while I had it off.

Bob


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

I chucked the Stout over the side for a used X1 carbon crank with a direct mount 30t. 
(Already changed the BB to Wheels Inc- no more creaks)


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## ChrisSp8s (May 14, 2017)

So I just picked up a 2017 Fuse Expert and after my first 20 miles, here are my initial thoughts. 6'2" and I got a Large because I prefer a smaller cockpit. I maybe should have gotten an XL but the size difference wasn't huge when I tried both. It weighs in right at 30lb out of the bike shop. The size matches up with my Giant Trance which i'm used to. The bottom bracket height seems totally fine and things I would bang my sprockets on before are now cleared so better clearance than a full squish 3x9 bike. The 3" tires are great for some post rain rides I have done and I'm digging the concept. The brakes are not my favorite and I've ordered Guide RS to replace them. The lever reach is too close and however they were set up, the rear brake lever has too much dead zone for my taste. I'm use to Hayes Stroker Trail (10yr old) as a reference.

I also ordered some Schwalbe Rocket Rons and plan to run them tubeless. I've never run tubeless before and know these Specialized 38mm rims are not designed for tubeless, but I'm going to give it a shot based on various MTBR posts. I'm interested in a light weight tubeless setup and may go with a heavier tire if I have issues with these thinner and lighter tires.

I'm not that stoked on the rear brake line running along the down tube instead of inside it and the internally routed dropper cable go snagged during my last ride and I had a big cable loop hanging below the bottom bracket so that might need some tape or something to guard against more snags.

Overall, I had a lot of fun riding a hard tail with 3" tires. In some ways it was less work with the bigger tires and the efficient pedaling, and in other ways it took more work to work my legs more over rocks and roots and such but I felt like I earned the ride a little more. Oh yeah, it's my first bike with a dropper post and I won't likely go back now.

The gearing is good but I do wish I had just a bit more range. A 50T rear cog would be great and would allow me to bump the front up to 30 or 32. I hesitate to give up the climbing granny gear by sizing up the front sprocket as is. Maybe with some more fitness I'll do that later. 

I especially look forward to next winter with some snow covered trails up here in CT and I might try a little downhilling up in VT with it too just for giggles. If I trash the wheels then I will just have to upgrade!

That's about it for initial thoughts, the price to fun ratio in this bike is quite good!


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## krel (May 9, 2017)

I am looking at getting either a fuse comp or a fuse expert and wanted some opinions on the parts difference. It looks like it comes down to just a couple items, really -

forks - RockShox Reba RL vs Manitou Machete 
drivetrain - SRAM GX vs SRAM NX
brakes - TRP Slate X2 vs custom DB-3 (SRAM? Avid? guessing from the name)

Are these upgrades worth the $400-500 price difference?


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## hgravez (Jul 15, 2008)

I have a 2017 Expert as well. When I took it home from the dealer, they confirmed that the rims were tubeless ready and provided me with valve stems. Sure enough, the rims were pre-taped and it has been set up tubeless and working flawlessly since the 2nd ride. Enjoy!


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## hgravez (Jul 15, 2008)

I considered the same calculations of the comp vs the expert. For my money, I thought it was worth it and went with the expert. Now, however, I'm considering a slightly bigger fork. Would I do it again? Probably. I think the SRAM GX is pretty good.


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## ChrisSp8s (May 14, 2017)

hgravez said:


> I have a 2017 Expert as well. When I took it home from the dealer, they confirmed that the rims were tubeless ready and provided me with valve stems. Sure enough, the rims were pre-taped and it has been set up tubeless and working flawlessly since the 2nd ride. Enjoy!


That's great news. I guess I have an unneeded roll of tape. Did you use the stock Ground Control tires or swap them out?


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## ChrisSp8s (May 14, 2017)

krel said:


> I am looking at getting either a fuse comp or a fuse expert and wanted some opinions on the parts difference. It looks like it comes down to just a couple items, really -
> 
> forks - RockShox Reba RL vs Manitou Machete
> drivetrain - SRAM GX vs SRAM NX
> ...


If you are likely to change the fork I might go Comp. If you want a lighter and better fork but don't need more than the Reba, and plus get some better components, then maybe get the Expert. Basically you are buying a lighter weight bike and a better fork with the expert. At least that was my rational.


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## ski1970 (Aug 20, 2007)

*The new beast*

I got this about a month ago. Did some replacement parts also. I got a new 2016 Fuse Pro for a killer deal $2300 OTD. I changed the fork to a Pike 140 RC3 ( mainly because the steer tube was not long enough on the stock Reba)(why specialized cuts them so low is beyond me) I added some Race Face Next carbon bars 20mm rise 35 clamp and a Race Face turbine 50mm stem but today put a Rental 40mm stem on it ( it turns so fast ). I had the brakes warrantied and got Level TL as a replacement. I put a Henge TI saddle on it and some Maxxis tires tubeless.

Future upgrades will be new brakes so I have a 4 piston in the rear and some specialized SL Fattie rims. Most likely go to Schwalbe RR tires too and maybe get a set of 29er wheels and tires. Any way I am getting use to it still. This was my second ride today.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

ski1970 said:


> I changed the fork to a Pike 140 RC3 ( mainly because the steer tube was not long enough on the stock Reba)(ä
> 
> Future upgrades will be new brakes so I have a 4 piston in the rear


that short steer tube must have been a real bummer...

I'm having the same issue on mine but just bought a riser bar for 50$

A 4 piston brake is not more powerful than a 2 piston brake just because the numbers of pistons is double but "upgrade" whatever you think is necessary, don't forget about the frame


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## ski1970 (Aug 20, 2007)

The steer tube sucked. I had to do the same thing on my wife Fuse Pro. I got her bike a year ago and got her a new Reba right off the bat. She has a XL due to her hight and the bikes front end was to low for her. 

From what I have read it does slow you faster due to more friction spread throughout the break surface which does slow you faster and give you more bite. ( maybe a bigger rotor would work too) I have always used Guid RSC on every previous bike and do not remember the rear break being so weak. I have rode them on this same downhill section too.


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

I've been happy with the brakes as delivered on my '16 Expert, but I can always appreciate "more". 

Couldn't stand the stock wide bar, mounted an Easton EC70 riser- then saw the Ritchey Bullmoose carbon that reminded me of the bar on my '86 Stumpy- just had to have it. Fixed, flat, 70mm x 720 and not coming loose in the stem.


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## KIK ROX (Jun 19, 2014)

Really loving my Fuse, definitely one of my most loved bikes of all time. Have a pair of 29x2.6 Nobby Nics on their way to put on some Roval Fattie SL 29 wheels. Edit: have no idea how to rotate this picture, even editing the pic and re-uploading doesn't fix it. Mods?


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## motosonic (Mar 6, 2017)

How do these things climb? I've heard they can be a little sluggish. is that true?


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

ski1970 said:


> I got this about a month ago. Did some replacement parts also. I got a new 2016 Fuse Pro for a killer deal $2300 OTD. I changed the fork to a Pike 140 RC3 ( mainly because the steer tube was not long enough on the stock Reba)(why specialized cuts them so low is beyond me) I added some Race Face Next carbon bars 20mm rise 35 clamp and a Race Face turbine 50mm stem but today put a Rental 40mm stem on it ( it turns so fast ). I had the brakes warrantied and got Level TL as a replacement. I put a Henge TI saddle on it and some Maxxis tires tubeless.
> 
> Future upgrades will be new brakes so I have a 4 piston in the rear and some specialized SL Fattie rims. Most likely go to Schwalbe RR tires too and maybe get a set of 29er wheels and tires. Any way I am getting use to it still. This was my second ride today.


Nice, I've got the same one, and also got a sweet deal on the 2016 version. I like how it is spec'd out - the XO mech and S2000 carbon crankset is a nice touch.

I made some similar changes - Renthal bar with a bit of rise and shorter stem. I'd love a longer steertube as well, but wasn't quite ready to spring on a whole new fork.

I also mounted a Wolf Components CAMO oval chainring, a pair of Bontrager Line Pro 40 27.5" carbon wheels (great price as a Trek take-off), and a crane bell (ding!).

Tell me more about warrantying the DB5 brakes - one of mine seized up on day 2, and the shop replaced it while I waited with another DB5. They've worked fine since then, but I'd be interested how you arranged to get moved to the newer line of brakes. Do they have the same shifter and dropper lever integration?


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## hgravez (Jul 15, 2008)

ChrisSp8s said:


> That's great news. I guess I have an unneeded roll of tape. Did you use the stock Ground Control tires or swap them out?


I have stuck with the stock tires. I actually like them a lot. I think the sidewalls are pretty sturdy and I haven't felt squirm or folding at pretty low pressures (13/14 psi in rear, 11/12 in front). For reference, I'm about 165lbs with all my gear.


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## hgravez (Jul 15, 2008)

My DB5s were warrantied as well. I simply told them that they kept seizing - and that I understand others have had the same problem - and they called me to tell me they were replacing them with Guides. However, I'm done with Sram's terrible brakes. So, I put on a pair of XTs.


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## hgravez (Jul 15, 2008)

motosonic said:


> How do these things climb? I've heard they can be a little sluggish. is that true?


Sure, they aren't as fast as a lighter bike with narrower tires...but, they grip like none other, are a blast to flick around and simply scream downhill. So. Much. Fun.


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## pumpsmynads (May 12, 2017)

Anyone put goop or slime in their tyres? Was wondering what quantity to put in. Was thinking around 150ml?


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## pumpsmynads (May 12, 2017)

Obligatory photo attached. Hopefully...


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## krel (May 9, 2017)

Anyone here try this yet?

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/49t-gc-cog-for-sram-and-sunrace

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

krel said:


> Anyone here try this yet?


I considered it once for like 5 seconds, but what is it good for?

For less money you could buy a sunrace 11-46 or 11-50 cassette

At least the description on the page
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/49t-gc-cog-for-sram-and-sunrace
is a hint that a Sram 1x 11 derailleur will work with a 50T cog on a hardtail (not so sure about full suspension bike due to chain growth)


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

Looks like less $ than a 50t cassette, reasonable upgrade for 40t cassette- if you need more. 
I'd do the 40t upgrade to a 10-speed 36.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Not sure which prices you're referring to but in Europe a 11-46 cassette is about half the price of this ridiculous expensive 49T cog and the newly announced but still hard to get 11-50 cassette also comes in cheaper.

The 40T cog is "only" 50% more expensive than a sunrace 11-40/11-42 cassette, not exactly a bargain either.


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

Hey I have a question about bike fit, I just became the owner of a 2016 fuse comp, thing is I'm 5'8" and the bike is a size small (long story how this happened). Anyway I'm interested in seeing if I can make it work, on paper I should be a medium but the reach seems close to some other brand's medium -frame reach.... I've ordered a 60cm stem to see how an extra 15mm feels up front. I've got the seat jacked all the way up to get the leg room... I guess my question is if anyone else is working with a frame that's a shade too small, by choice or by accident? If so, what have you learned? Thx...


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

JScoot said:


> on paper I should be a medium
> I've ordered a 60cm stem
> my question is if anyone else is working with a frame that's a shade too small, by choice or by accident? If so, what have you learned? Thx...


It all comes down what you wanna do with the bike.

Depending on your inseam / arm length there might be a good chance to make this work. I actually choose to be in a similar situation, even after testriding both framesizes I ordered the Fuse in both size M and L despite my measurements 5'11"/34.5" clearly pointing towards an L.

I already rode the size L yesterday for 2 hours and believe that the M frame with a 60mm stem is a better fit than the L with a 45mm stem, I can put on a long 175mm dropper post and riser bars on the medium frame while the standover of the L is klling me.

It's important to remember that the Fuse is not just a XC hardtail with thicker tires, it's a fun bike that wants to be ridden hard, jumped and sometimes crashed. The geometry approach here is therefore different.

To give you some inspiration, the guy in this video rides a Ruze size M (slightly larger than a Fuse S) on purpose, a Fuse L wouldn't enable him to flick the bike around and do all the tricks with such an ease


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> It all comes down what you wanna do with the bike.
> 
> Depending on your inseam / arm length there might be a good chance to make this work. I actually choose to be in a similar situation...


Thanks SC, thats's very encouraging. Maybe with some tweaks I'll find I've stumbled into something good. The video is cool too, although.... I have to admit my riding style is a little less advanced. Good to see how flickable and sporty the bike can be though! Stem will be here in a couple days... I also had a Salsa Bend bar lying around, that seems to have opened up the cockpit a bit too!


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

My riding style isn't that advanced either but I think we should break with this XC fit paradigm here. This bike isn't intended to be used as a long range bomber, it's rather more like a candle that burns twice as bright in half the time. What I mean is it doesn't make nearly as much fun if you buy it with the seating position of a classic 29er hardtail in mind.

I gonna receive both frame sizes this week and first thing I'll do is put the longer 60mm stem from the L frame on the M frame and the shorter 45m stem from the M frame on the L frame (e.g. exchange them vice versa to harmonise cockpit lengths)

I also bought a riser bar with less backsweep and should be able to achieve the exact same seating position on both frames, let's see how this turn out.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Here's another video I found to give you some inspiration what to do with your Fuse.

It's Chris Akrigg on a 27.5+ hardtail, as you can see he's riding a pretty small frame for his body size but it looks fun:


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

pumpsmynads said:


> Anyone put goop or slime in their tyres? Was wondering what quantity to put in. Was thinking around 150ml?


If you are going to convert to tubeless (which you should really consider), then you'll need to use a tubeless sealant like Stans (standard and available everywhere), or Orange Seal (less common, but works great). If you are just using standard tubes, then don't weigh yourself down with slime inside the tubes.


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> Here's another video I found to give you some inspiration what to do with your Fuse.
> 
> It's Chris Akrigg on a 27.5+ hardtail, as you can see he's riding a pretty small frame for his body size but it looks fun:


Love that one. MTB roots. Thanks for sharing that.


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> I also bought a riser bar with less backsweep and should be able to achieve the exact same seating position on both frames, let's see how this turn out.


Yeah, keep us posted!
I just got back from a short test ride on my "too-small" fuse. When I rode it up and down the street, I was fretting over the feel, size etc.
When I rode it in the woods, up some chunky stuff, through some flow, then back down some chunk, all I was thinking about was.... this is fun!
Still gonna add a stem and work on the cockpit, I did have a sense that I could endo more easily than on my 29er.


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> I gonna receive both frame sizes this week and first thing I'll do is put the longer 60mm stem from the L frame on the M frame and the shorter 45m stem from the M frame on the L frame (e.g. exchange them vice versa to harmonise cockpit lengths)
> 
> I also bought a riser bar with less backsweep and should be able to achieve the exact same seating position on both frames, let's see how this turn out.


Still interested to hear back about how this goes for you. I put a 60mm stem on the small fuse, and it helps a lot, just got back from 16 miles of riding, really no problems at all.

BUT I do still feel a bit "perched" on top of the bike still, with the seat almost all the way up (set at the "1" mark). I'd like to feel more down in the bike, I think that's even meant to be part of the feel, and I'm missing that even though I am comfortable.

The size small actually has a 74 degree seat tube (vs. 73 on other sizes) and a longer head tube which complicates direct comparisons.... but I'm wondering about getting a riser bar to try on to see if raising the bars helps me feel more inside it. I could move the stem up and down to adjust the feel of a 40mm riser... Will that contribute to "in the bike" feeling?


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

I haven't received the bikes yet, I'll post a comprehensive review once I've made up my mind.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

I've read in this thread that the Specialized Stout rear hubs from the Fuse 2015-2016 models come with Shimano freehubs. Now I see that some US Fuse 2017 models come with Stout rear hubs that are equipped with Sram 10-42 cassettes, thus they must be equipped with an XD driver body. Does this mean the hub of a 2016 Fuse should be convertible to XD? Or are we talking about different "Stout" hubs here? I haven't seen an XD driver to be sold separately for these hubs yet, they're only available for the Formula hubs of the Fuse Pro.

Background:
I need a better climbing gear than 30/40 (you come to Austria and understand...)
Thus I wanna upgrade the stock 10speed Sram GX 30 / 11-40 to a 11speed setup with wider range cassette

I could go with...
30T chainring + sunrace 11-46 (46T cog would work with Sram GX derailleur)
or
30/32T chainring + sunrace 11-50 (50T cog works only with Shimano derailleur!)
or
28T chainring + Sram XG 1150 10-42 cassette (shifting is better on Sram cassettes IMO)
or
26T Gabaruk chainring + leave stock 11-40 cassette (26/11 top speed gear sound awful)

...what now?


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

KIK ROX said:


> Really loving my Fuse, definitely one of my most loved bikes of all time. Have a pair of 29x2.6 Nobby Nics on their way to put on some Roval Fattie SL 29 wheels. Edit: have no idea how to rotate this picture, even editing the pic and re-uploading doesn't fix it. Mods?
> 
> View attachment 1137939


How do you like the carbon frame? Have you ridden the aluminum one for comparison?

I rode a Transition Vanquish this week and I liked it a lot better than my Al Fuse. Considering either getting one of those or a carbon Fuse. Not sure if the difference was the minimal difference in geo or it being a plastic bike.


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> I also bought a riser bar with less backsweep and should be able to achieve the exact same seating position on both frames, let's see how this turn out.


Hey how much rise will you have in the bars to try to even the frames out?

I was looking at some 25 vs 40 mm riser bars, leaning 25. Looking at stack heights between S and M, it's only about a 10mm difference, but I think I'd rather overshoot and drop the stem as needed.

I have a 2016, and I can tell you it has a sunrace cassette (11-40) but I can't tell you if the hub is convertible to XD...


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

JScoot said:


> Hey how much rise will you have in the bars to try to even the frames out?
> 
> I was looking at some 25 vs 40 mm riser bars, leaning 25. Looking at stack heights between S and M, it's only about a 10mm difference, but I think I'd rather overshoot and drop the stem as needed


I ordered the red 2016 comp in M and L and some handlebars with 20-25mm rise even though the stack difference of both frames is only 14mm.

However I'm now considering swapping the Suntour Raidon 120mm fork for a Suntour Aion 130mm to be the more elegant solution here, it'll give me a higher handlebar (10mm more travel + I can cut the steer tube to desired length myself), a slacker headangle and raise the rather low bottom bracket a little should I ever want to ride with smaller 2.8" tires


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## fabrice (Mar 27, 2006)

Steel Calf said:


> I've read in this thread that the Specialized Stout rear hubs from the Fuse 2015-2016 models come with Shimano freehubs. Now I see that some US Fuse 2017 models come with Stout rear hubs that are equipped with Sram 10-42 cassettes, thus they must be equipped with an XD driver body. Does this mean the hub of a 2016 Fuse should be convertible to XD? Or are we talking about different "Stout" hubs here? I haven't seen an XD driver to be sold separately for these hubs yet, they're only available for the Formula hubs of the Fuse Pro.
> 
> Background:
> I need a better climbing gear than 30/40 (you come to Austria and understand...)
> ...


Hello,
I'm also waiting for the delivery of my Fuse Comp from Bike24 (I'm in Belgium)
I was also wondering about the XD body beeing available or not for that Spe hub... Have you found the answer ?
Otherwise, my plans for a cheap way of going 11s is : Sunrace 11-46 cassette and Apex shifter (it's the only exact actuation 11s shifter in the sram range).
The only question is how the X7 mech will handle the 46T cog...
Cheers


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

fabrice said:


> The only question is how the X7 mech will handle the 46T cog...
> Cheers


The X7/GX 10speed derailleur is incompatible with a 46T cog, even a 42T could be tricky. I double checked that myself on two bikes, you'll need a Sram 1x11 derailleur and shifter (both NX if you want to stay cheap or GX for best value)

I already got GX shifter and derailleur today but still no bike and no 11-46 cassette as I was eyeballing the 11-50 but this thread shows that the 50T doesn't work really well with the 1x11 derailleur:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=1041601

Even if there was a XD driver available for the Stout hub, I'm unsure if it's a wise upgrade to do:
- the XD driver would sure cost between 50-100€ (the XD driver for the Specialized Forumula hub is 99$!)
- the Stout hub itself is very unreliable, the driver would be worthless if the hub is shot within months
- the Sram XG 1150 cassette would still be 40€ more expensive than the sun race 11-46, the weight advantage is just 70g
- if you're running a 10-42 cassette rear you'd still have to downsize the front chainring to 28T to have a sufficient low that equals 30/46

From a financial standpoint switching to a XD 10-42 cassette would cost you about 50 + 40 + 50 = 140-190€ more than a GX 11-46 setup, that's 380€ for just 1 more gear than 30/11-40

I'd rather upgrade the fork to Suntour Aion for 370€


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## fabrice (Mar 27, 2006)

That's what I suspected with the X7 derailleur  (in its specs, it's 36T max)
Anyway, I don't mind trying, because if it doesn't work, it won't go to the bin and will nicely upgrade my son's bike to 1x11.
You can mix&match Sram "exact actuation" shifters and derailleurs.
So all exact actuation MTB or road 10s/11s derailleurs will work with the Apex 11s flatbar shifter. OK, it's not high-end, not that light, not matchmaker compatible, but it's cheap, like 20€.

You are absolutely right regarding the financial aspects of a XD body conversion : not worth it ! Plus the argument of the low quality Spe hub... Gearswise, you're upgrading from a 360% to 420% cassette, so that's not worthless. Even with a 28T chainring, you are a litter "longer" than 30-11. An 11-46 cassette has even a little less range than a SRAM 10-42, but that's minimal.

So that's true, the GX 11s + Sunrace cassette upgrade is the solution that makes more sense. Or XT, that's approx on par, or SLX if on a budget.

BTW, still no call from the delivery company for my Fuse


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## TBoneAz (Aug 28, 2012)

Quick recap of 16 vs 17? 

I have a line on a good deal on a 16 Expert. I haven't read all 1k posts in this thread, but I do get there are geo and spec differences between 16 and 17. Can someone give me a quick list of the top differences?

Thanks!


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

TBoneAz said:


> Quick recap of 16 vs 17?
> 
> Can someone give me a quick list of the top differences?


look for my post in this thread regarding this. I recommend you getting the 17 model


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## overmyhead (Apr 26, 2017)

Hi all, first post here! I recently bought a second-hand 2015 Fuse Pro and like it a lot. Mine appeared to have barely been ridden and was bought at a significant discount. Some of my impressions may be useful to others thinking of going with a Fuse. I don't see much here about the Pro version, guessing Specialized may have killed it off since it's $3100 retail price was not significantly lower than the $3500 Expert carbon version. I'd think most buyers would have chosen the carbon frame if the prices in a shop were close. I'm 5'11" with a longer than average torso and shorter than average inseam. For me the large size frame is a comfortable fit.

Brakes levers felt sluggish when I bought it, and they pretty much seized up on my first off-road ride. After reading the (mostly negative) stuff here about the Sram DB5 brakes, I decided to replace rather than spend money getting them serviced. A LBS mechanic said he didn't see the point in working on them either. A buddy had a set of nearly unused XT brakes so that made the decision easier. They were already pre-bled and spacing for mounting the cantilevers was the same as the Srams, he got them installed pretty easily. Stayed with the original rotors, didn't see the need to replace them.

Went on a ride with the XT brakes installed and it was a night & day difference. With the XT brakes, I could concentrate on the ride rather than fixating on the hardware, a good thing. I'd read here about a lack of modulation with XT brakes but these do not suffer from that, the braking resistance/bite comes on gradually/predictably. There isn't enough bite to do a stoppie - my friend suggested removing the brake pads and sanding them in case the surfaces are glazed. Another suggestion was using alcohol to clean both the pads and the rotors.

I'm considering a 28T in place of the 30T chainring, my knees aren't what they once were. And I don't think I'd miss a little top-end speed.

The drop post works great. Being able to adjust the seat height on the fly is a god-send, I feel more confident taking rougher sections with the seat lowered just a bit (or quite a lot) depending on what's required.

The ride on the 3.0 tires is as you'd expect - plush & forgiving. Have been experimenting with 14 or 15 psi up front, 15 or 16 psi in back. Traction while slowly riding uphill in rooted/rocky terrain is outstanding. I'm able to barrel down rocky trails faster (and with less vibration in my hands/arms/shoulders) than on my previous bike, (ten year old Yeti 575), the larger wheels/tires are really good for that. But for cornering, I'm still getting the hang of moving around the 27.5+ tires, it's a big switch coming from bikes with 26" wheels/2.1" tires.

The bottom bracket doesn't seem to have too much resistance and there are no squeaks or other unwanted noises. Seems ok there.

I may have overlooked it, but am wondering about riders who've experimented with 2.8 and/or 2.6 tires on their Fuses. I want to go tubeless and wondering about switching tire sizes too. I could live with a bit less cushion if it makes the steering feel more responsive. But not if it comes at the expense of considerably more pedal strikes. And maybe going tubeless & lowering the rotational weight will make a significant difference in how it feels steering/cornering, dunno, is all new to me. 
I get that the plus tires are really what the Fuse was designed around; I don't want to monkey around if it means losing the main benefits of the plus sizing.

Great forum here, cheers!


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

I've got the '16 Fuse Ex, the Stout hubs are cup and cone. Seems the '17 Ex has cartridge bearings. Not saying it's great, just a different animal. 
I upgraded my wheelset to XD driver, GX-11 derailleur and I used that 42-tooth XG-1180 on a class-4 climb last weekend. 20% grade isn't playing!


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## Doodasi (Feb 12, 2017)

I have a 2016 comp model, and i think the rear hub is cup and cone. Dont know for sure because i havnt taken it apart, but it feels like the old stuff. Looks bolted together like the old stuff too. The front is sealed caged bearings.

I have been reading a lot about the bottom bearings, and hub on these being junk, and the steering tube bearings being dry so i did some investigating. Here is what i found.

There is nothing but "packing" grease in all the bearings. It is a light grease that is used to keep the bearings from rusting in storage. Being in industrial maintenance, i know what this stuff looks, and feels like. It's basically vaseline. All sealed industrial bearings are packaged like this. Obviously Specialized does NOT repack these sealed caged bearings. These bearings in these bikes are not junk. They are top notch. There is a problem with the assembly process that I'm sure Specialized is not aware of.

When I was an industrial maintenance machinist people would complain about bearings going out, and needing replacement every month. I get in there, and pack them with real grease, and they would last for 3 years or more.

All you do is get access to one side of the bearing. Make sure everything is clean, clean, clean. take something like a large leather sewing pin, nothing sharp, and carefully stick it in the inside part of the seal where the inner bearing race is. Get behind the seal, and gently pop it out. Get some good grease, and push it into the bearing. Keep pushing it in there until you believe the grease got pushed behind the bearing into the other side. Pop the seal back on, and wipe off the excess. Done!... I bet when most people replace these, they take the new one out of the bag, or box, stick it in the hole, and run it. Stupid, stupid, stupid! No wonder people think the stuff is junk.

The bearings on the steering shaft have a small gap on the inside that will allow you to pack grease in it.

I just packed all of mine. Easy peasy. Glad people complained, otherwise i would have ran mine until they were junk never knowing Specialized is making a mistake by not doing anything with these bearings.

These are standard industrial bearing that can be purchased for probably lots less money from graingers, or mcmaster carr. Bb bearings #NBN 6806RS. front hub bearing #NBK 6902-2RS.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Doodasi said:


> There is nothing but "packing" grease in all the bearings. It is a light grease that is used to keep the bearings from rusting in storage. Obviously Specialized does NOT repack these sealed caged bearings. These bearings in these bikes are not junk. They are top notch. There is a problem with the assembly process that I'm sure Specialized is not aware of.
> 
> When I was an industrial maintenance machinist people would complain about bearings going out, and needing replacement every month. I get in there, and pack them with real grease, and they would last for 3 years or more.
> 
> ...


finally someone pointing that out!

I'm doing this exact procedure on every new bike and never had a problem with preworn bearings. Headsets usually last a bikes life. On a full suspension bike it's not just hubs and headset bearings but also all linkage bearings!

In order to avoid "air pockets" I use a syringe to force the grease behind the balls, here is an older bike I once photographed the whole procedure

























damn they're upside down


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## Doodasi (Feb 12, 2017)

Nice... Instead of a syringe you can also use a grease gun, and a needle fitting if you want to go that route. Car quest or advance auto has them for sure. PT "performance tool" part # w54213. They are about 4 bucks. I'm old school, and prefer a good pack.


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> I haven't received the bikes yet, I'll post a comprehensive review once I've made up my mind.


Definitely looking forward to reading your thoughts!
The bikes must have arrived by now, any first impressions?


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

The bikes are here but I'm moving right now - will report back once the dust has settled!


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## TBoneAz (Aug 28, 2012)

Doodasi said:


> When I was an industrial maintenance machinist people would complain about bearings going out, and needing replacement every month. I get in there, and pack them with real grease, and they would last for 3 years or more.


This is really helpful - you should do a youtube vid for those of us without your experience level. Thanks!
:thumbsup:


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## BCNSurfer (Jun 13, 2017)

Hi all,

I'm looking for a new bike to substitute my old Trek 6300, and after some investigation and testing I narrowed it down to one of the Specialized Fuses. However, I'm doubting between the different models. In my local shop I could get:

- Specialized Fuse Expert 2016 for 1300€ including a pair of extra 29er wheels.
- Fuse Comp 2017 for 1500€.

I've read through the thread and seen the comparison with the improvements made in 2017 models, and I'm mainly concerned the 10speed 11-40 of the Expert 2016 won't be enough to cover all situations comfortably.
What do you think? Should I pay 200€ more and loose the extra set of wheels for the 2017 Comp against the 2016 Expert?

Another option would be to go for Expert 2017 which brings the Reba and GX 11speed, but this is at 2000€ right now, so I should get a good deal to bring it inside my budget... 

What do you think? Any advice will be welcome!
Thanks!


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## Zigmorph (Sep 15, 2016)

I just wanted to thank everyone in this thread for all the great info and thought provoking dialogue.

I pulled the trigger on 2016 Fuse Pro a few months back thanks to a killer deal from my LBS and I couldn't be happier. This was my first new bike since my good ol' mid 90's Rockhopper. Oh my what a difference! :eekster:

So far, after a few hundred miles, I'm only changing out the pedals. Not really sure there's much else I should change until things break. We'll see 

Special thanks to DoodAsi for the protip on repacking the bearings :thumbsup:

Keep that dialogue coming!


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

BCNSurfer, I personally would go with the 2016 and the extra wheelset. I'm always looking for the best deal, and of these two I'd say getting an expert for less than a comp is a win. Especially with extra wheels! 
If you end up wanting 11 speed, you could upgrade for close to the $200 you are saving. Or see if a wider range 10speed cassette would work. 
Just my 2¢....


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## BCNSurfer (Jun 13, 2017)

Thanks JScoot!
But will it be easy to change to a 11Speed later? I've read in this same thread that it's quite hard and expensive to find an 11Speed that fits this specific bike...
I'll try to go today to the shop and will ask them also about the possibility!

Thanks!


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

BCNSurfer said:


> But will it be easy to change to a 11Speed later? I've read in this same thread that it's quite hard and expensive to find an 11Speed that fits this specific bike...
> I'll try to go today to the shop and will ask them also about the possibility!
> 
> Thanks!


Not having tried it, I'll say I don't know. I've been okay with the 10 speed so far. 
I did see this thread though:
http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/anyone-convert-fuse-6fattie-1x10-1x11-1020749.html


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## BCNSurfer (Jun 13, 2017)

Mmm... It's not clear...

Well, I went to the shop again and they make me a 10% on the new ones, so the match now is:
- 2016 Expert + pair of 29er wheels @1300€
- 2017 Comp @1350€
- 2017 Expert @1800€

I'll think about it during the weekend.
Advices welcome!


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## wbibar (Jun 6, 2017)

Hi Everyone,

Question on the Fuse 6 (entry level version): https://www.specialized.com/us/en/men/bikes/mountain/trail/fuse-6fattie/118357

Am assuming that this has a straight headtube unlike the higher models which is tapered. Question is will this inhibit you in performing future upgrades fork wise?

Cheers!


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

wbibar said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> Question on the Fuse 6 (entry level version): https://www.specialized.com/us/en/men/bikes/mountain/trail/fuse-6fattie/118357
> 
> Am assuming that this has a straight headtube


It neither contradicts nor confirms that in the official spec sheet but a 1 1/8" straight steer in 2017 is very unlikely.


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## bike-packer (May 20, 2017)

*2016 Fuse Expert Upgrades for Bikepacking*

Hello all, long time lurker, first time poster.

I've been riding a 2016 Fuse Expert for a little over a year. It has about 800 to 1,000 miles on it. It's seen quite a bit of action all around North America from singletrack to slickrock, bikepacking, and road riding. Lately I've been doing some upgrades as a friend and I will be leaving to do some sections of the Colorado Trail in a month.

Upgrades from stock:
Shimano XT brakes, front and back (running on the stock Sram rotors)
Shimano XT 1x11 RD and shifter
Wolftooth 30T stainless oval chainring
Wolftooth GC49 cog and RD cage conversion to make the rear 11-49
Wolftooth dropper post lever
Wheels Manufacturing bottom bracket
Raceface Aeffect cranks
Shimano XT PD-T8000 SPD dual platform pedals
Surly Dirt Wizard 3.0 front, Specialized Purgatory Grid 3.0 rear
WTB Ranger 3.0s for some places
Full Revelate Designs bikepacking gear

The Manitou Magnum Comp fork has been ok but I'd appreciate something better now. I have tried tweaking the pressures and rebound but it still sorta "meh". Another reason I want a different fork is to increase the stem height with spacers for a little more comfortable reach geometry and so my handlebar bag does not rub the front tire with every big bump or jump.

I've ridden a Fox 34 120mm on a plus bike but am considering either a Pike 130mm or Yari 130mm. I've heard the Fox forks can accommodate 29+ and may be more versatile in the long haul. This thing climbs like a monster now and I don't want to screw up the geometry and make it too drifty but would appreciate a stiffer longer travel fork for long mountain descents. A lot of the forks I see are 51mm offset and a 42mm may be better.

I hate the thought of putting $900 more into a fork this thing but will probably move all these parts over to a FS frame when I come across something I like and put all the stock stuff back on the Fuse.

What fork should I get? Can I make my fork better? Read somewhere the Comp can be taken from 120mm to 140mm but am not sure where that was and the references on how to do it.

Thoughts?


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

bike-packer said:


> Can I make my fork better? Read somewhere the Comp can be taken from 120mm to 140mm but am not sure where that was and the references on how to do it.
> 
> Thoughts?


Unfortunately increasing travel is not impossible on both the Suntour Raidon+ and Manitou Magnum Comp+

The stanchions on the Raidon are simply too short to enable sufficient bushing overlap while on the Magnum Comp the 140mm airshaft won't fit the thicker Aluminium 6000 sanctions either, if you want more travel on a budget get the Suntour Aion.


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

bike-packer said:


> Hello all, long time lurker, first time poster.
> 
> I've been riding a 2016 Fuse Expert for a little over a year. It has about 800 to 1,000 miles on it. It's seen quite a bit of action all around North America from singletrack to slickrock, bikepacking, and road riding. Lately I've been doing some upgrades as a friend and I will be leaving to do some sections of the Colorado Trail in a month.


Just curious, sound like you've kept the stock wheelset? Has the rear hub held up to all this use? I've read about failures, but would like to hear if anyone is getting a long life out of the Stout hub out back....


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## bike-packer (May 20, 2017)

I'm still running the stock wheelset. A couple weeks ago I took the rear hub apart and lubed it, looked ok in there. It has not slipped any on me and all three ratchets still function.

Do these things outright fail or is it a slow progression? I would imagine it is more of a point contact wear issue than sudden failure.


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## Guerdonian (Sep 4, 2008)

Just joined the club last week. 2017 Fuse Expert Carbon in the amazing nordic red color! I Have about 80 miles on her already. Now I have two specialized carbon 650+ bikes in the quiver, the stumpy sixfatty in the background is also mine.

A couple questions:
1. The frame came with a little tag saying that the paint will change with time, i have noticed that the spot where tend to drip sweat onto the top tube is darker than the rest of the bike, as well as one section near the head tube hasn't changed to a darker color like the rest of the bike? Anyone know what this color changing is supposed to do? The whole bike already seems darker than when i bought it? I plan on giving her a good wash this weekend, but a lot of these spots you can't "wipe away" with your finger, which has me wondering.

2. Has anyone tried putting a bash guard on this beast? any suggestions? I have read through most of this thread but didn't see anything, may have missed it.

Planned upgrades:
Carbon bars, ergon grips, trail bell, SWAT tube and CO2 seat pack, front mini-fender.


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## J_Ghost (Sep 10, 2016)

I just ordered a medium 2017 Fuse Comp in green from my LBS. First $1000+ bike I have ever bought. I get it the end of this coming week as the shop didn't have it on the floor. Happy 23rd birthday to me


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## Ramia (Apr 2, 2017)

J_Ghost said:


> I just ordered a medium 2017 Fuse Comp in green from my LBS. First $1000+ bike I have ever bought. I get it the end of this coming week as the shop didn't have it on the floor. Happy 23rd birthday to me


I have the 2017 fuse comp in green is amazing It looks so hot... Greetings from Ecuador









Enviado desde mi FRD-L04 mediante Tapatalk


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## J_Ghost (Sep 10, 2016)

Ramia said:


> I have the 2017 fuse comp in green is amazing It looks so hot... Greetings from Ecuador
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow, that color really pops. Blue is usually my favorite but that looks great. I'm glad I went with it over the black.

Question: on the Comp trim I have seen reviews saying it had 2 different brands of front fork. Suntour or Manitou Machete. Did they update it midyear or something? I think mine will get the Machete. Not sure if it matters but one review of the bike with the Suntour fork says the ride quality wasn't great.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Nice color Ramia. I had my 2016 expert out yesterday. What a great bike, I'm thinking of ditching my gravel road ride today on my cx bike to have another go on my fuse! Fun bike!


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## Ramia (Apr 2, 2017)

J_Ghost said:


> Wow, that color really pops. Blue is usually my favorite but that looks great. I'm glad I went with it over the black.
> 
> Question: on the Comp trim I have seen reviews saying it had 2 different brands of front fork. Suntour or Manitou Machete. Did they update it midyear or something? I think mine will get the Machete. Not sure if it matters but one review of the bike with the Suntour fork says the ride quality wasn't great.


2017 fuse comp comes with manitou machete fork its awesome, there's not much reviews for this suspension but I read that its so much better than suntour..

Enviado desde mi FRD-L04 mediante Tapatalk


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## krel (May 9, 2017)

Ramia said:


> 2017 fuse comp comes with manitou machete fork its awesome, there's not much reviews for this suspension but I read that its so much better than suntour..
> 
> Enviado desde mi FRD-L04 mediante Tapatalk


What do you all think of the fork on the fuse comp (manitou machete) vs the fuse expert (rockshox reba)? I'm still debating between those two bikes - there's some other differences like SRAM NX vs GX too but I think the fork is a big change, isn't it?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

Has anyone dropped a wider range cassette onto your fuse? 
I have a 2016 (10 speed) with X7 rear derailleur and 11-40, would like to drop in a 11-42 or even better a 44 if possible to give it a smaller gear for hills.... will it work, without having to replace other stuff?
I'd also be open to a 28 tooth chainring but it seems hard to figure how that works with the stock Stout crankset.
I just need a simple, quick solution, so my wife doesn't get on me for "researching bikes on the internet all the time" again.... help me out!


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

you have two options:

stay with 10 speed setup:
28T chainring front + 11-42 cassette rear will give you a 12% lower climbing gear but your top out will be 28/11 which is a bit low

or

11speed 11-46 cassette + 11speed shifter + 11speed derailleur + 11speed chain will give you a 15% lower climbing gear and you won't loose any top speed gear

The 11-50 sunrace cassette with shimano shifter is the third option but I'm still unsure how well that setup really works (mixed reviews)


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> you have two options:
> 
> stay with 10 speed setup:
> 28T chainring front + 11-42 cassette rear will give you a 12% lower climbing gear but your top out will be 28/11 which is a bit low


Okay, so what I take from this is that I CAN drop a 11-42 on without causing any collateral issues.... not sure how much difference 2 extra teeth on the big ring will make, but I may just try it.

Though I'd probably RATHER fit a 28T chainring, as that would make more of a change to the climbing gears. Thing is, which would fit the Stout cranks? I've seen some reports of certain sram chain rings working, but others had issues with bolt diameters? (Wolf Tooth makes one for the stout but it's a 30T). Do you know of a chainring that works for this application?

Thanks in advance.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

I strongly recommend going the 11 speed route with 30 / 11-46 or 30 / 11-50 and sell the 10 speed stuff as long as it's new and has some value. I was able to sell the complete 10 speed drive train for 90€

this upgrade would cost you 150€
- SLX 11speed derailleur and shifter
- Sam XX1 11speed chain (the chain is better than the Shimano, I had to learn that the hard way)
- Sunrace 11-46 cassette (or 11-50 cassette)


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## J_Ghost (Sep 10, 2016)

Hey does anybody know what kind of bottle holder will fit on a Fuse? I wish one was included. Also, what other accessories would be good to have on one?


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## MozFat (Dec 16, 2016)

Steel Calf said:


> I strongly recommend going the 11 speed route with 30 / 11-46 or 30 / 11-50 and sell the 10 speed stuff as long as it's new and has some value. I was able to sell the complete 10 speed drive train for 90€
> 
> this upgrade would cost you 150€
> - SLX 11speed derailleur and shifter
> ...


Out of interest, can you confirm there would be no need to change the chainring as well. Will the 11 speed chain run on the 10 speed ring?


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## SeanMurr123 (Jul 23, 2016)

Steel Calf said:


> Unfortunately increasing travel is not impossible on both the Suntour Raidon+ and Manitou Magnum Comp+
> 
> The stanchions on the Raidon are simply too short to enable sufficient bushing overlap while on the Magnum Comp the 140mm airshaft won't fit the thicker Aluminium 6000 sanctions either, if you want more travel on a budget get the Suntour Aion.


I put a 140mm spring in my Magnum. Works great! Didn't cost much either, got it from CRC.


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## SeanMurr123 (Jul 23, 2016)

MozFat said:


> Out of interest, can you confirm there would be no need to change the chainring as well. Will the 11 speed chain run on the 10 speed ring?


Not on the stock stout chainring, the teeth are too wide. I found that out when I was excitedly putting it all back together to test out my new 11 speed!

I bought a 76 bcd wolftooth one and which fits the stock cranks but it needs to be spaced inboard about 1mm to stop the chain from running back down the cassette if you backpedal. You will notice if you pull the stock one off it is flat where it bolts to the spider but the wolftooth one is slightly recessed at the mounting points.

In hindsight upgrading to 11 speed and a wider range wouldn't be high on my priorities. It didn't make as bigger difference as I thought, I put a 11-46 on and stuck with a 30 tooth, I would rather hit those hills a few times and build up strength so you can push the 40 tooth and put the money towards a faster engaging hub. I put a SRAM 900 in, straight swap with existing spokes and it made a much bigger difference to the ride.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

SeanMurr123 said:


> I put a 140mm spring in my Magnum. Works great! Didn't cost much either, got it from CRC.


please be more specific, which "Magnum" fork do you have and which airshaft did you use to extend the travel to 140mm?


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## SeanMurr123 (Jul 23, 2016)

Steel Calf said:


> please be more specific, which "Magnum" fork do you have and which airshaft did you use to extend the travel to 140mm?


It's a Magnum comp that came stock on the 2016 Expert.

Manitou Magnum Comp Air Spring Assembly 2015 | Chain Reaction Cycles

Here's the manual to show you how to instalate it:

https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Magnum-Comp-Service-Guide-REV2.1.pdf

Definitely a worth while upgrade. Still climbs good and is fast on tight tracks but I can run lower pressure now so it really soaks up the hits.


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

bike-packer said:


> I'm still running the stock wheelset. A couple weeks ago I took the rear hub apart and lubed it, looked ok in there. It has not slipped any on me and all three ratchets still function.
> 
> Do these things outright fail or is it a slow progression? I would imagine it is more of a point contact wear issue than sudden failure.


Thanks for responding. From what I've heard the hubs that go bad do so way too soon for it to be called a "slow progression". So maybe some are duds, and others aren't. Good to hear yours has held up. I rebuilt mine too bc it felt dry even with low miles. Spins much better now.


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> I strongly recommend going the 11 speed route with 30 / 11-46 or 30 / 11-50 and sell the 10 speed stuff as long as it's new and has some value. I was able to sell the complete 10 speed drive train for 90€
> 
> this upgrade would cost you 150€
> - SLX 11speed derailleur and shifter
> ...


You make a strong case. The cost for these parts adds up to $190 USD though...and it sounds like I might still have to add a wolf tooth chainring.
Hoping I can just figure out a 28T chainring that's compatible. I don't particularly need 11 speeds vs 10, just a lower climbing gear.
Also hesitate to invest too much in parts until I've been able to compare the feel of a size medium to my current size small.... how is that research project of yours coming along?


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

J_Ghost said:


> Hey does anybody know what kind of bottle holder will fit on a Fuse? I wish one was included. Also, what other accessories would be good to have on one?


Since it's going to be your birthday, I'd suggest you get a whiskey bottle holder for your fuse. And maybe some 80mm riser bars, to help keep you upright as you ride back to your car.

I'm just messing with you... in all seriousness, the fuse does have a 3-bolt cage attachment, so you could get something like the Salsa "anything cage" if you wanted to strap random stuff on your bike. Otherwise, any ol' bottle cage will work just fine.


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## markalolo (Jun 29, 2017)

SeanMurr123 said:


> It's a Magnum comp that came stock on the 2016 Expert.
> 
> Manitou Magnum Comp Air Spring Assembly 2015 | Chain Reaction Cycles
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip. I just ordered the spring and look forward to trying it out! Are the special Manitou tools required or just "nice to have?"


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Looks like I'll be getting a Fuse Comp to rotate with my Epic. Any reviews on the Manitou Machete? Also wondering about the Tektro brakes. Planned upgrades are SWorks bar, WCS carbon post, tubeless Rocket Rons. Intended purpose will be larger footprint xc bike. No race bike and no huck bike. Might stick the Nicotines on in winter for some fun. Just hoping the fork and brakes are serviceable. I don't mind upgrading the brakes later but really don't want to spring for a new fork. The price point on the Comp is at my limit for a spare bike. Planned on a 2017 in black /moto green but now I see the 2018 is black with red. Might wait for that. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## 25lbs&counting (Sep 7, 2006)

Picked up a 2018 Fuse comp yesterday. Black and red, much better looking color. Size small, 100mm machete fork, really wish they would step up to 120mm. Sram NX is not bad, shifts well. Will be doing some upgrades as I find parts on sale. Goal is to not go over 3k for total project including cost of bike. As I ride this bike over time, I'll upgrade where I find it has the weakest links.


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

25lbs&counting said:


> Picked up a 2018 Fuse comp yesterday. Black and red, much better looking color. Size small, 100mm machete fork, really wish they would step up to 120mm. Sram NX is not bad, shifts well. Will be doing some upgrades as I find parts on sale. Goal is to not go over 3k for total project including cost of bike. As I ride this bike over time, I'll upgrade where I find it has the weakest links.


Congrats on the new ride! You're gonna love it. I'm not very familiar with the 2018, but I ride a 2016 comp. If you don't mind my asking, how tall are you? I am 5'8 on a size small and have done a few upgrades to get the fit right (25 mm Deity riser bars, 70 mm stem.... I even got an Iodine 3 saddle by crank brothers bc it has super tall rails so I can lower the seat post further).

Do they give you a 100mm dropper on the 2018? The 2016 small was specced with just an 80mm dropper but my bike came with a full 100mm..... not sure why, maybe I just got lucky!


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## 25lbs&counting (Sep 7, 2006)

5 ft. 6in. 100mm post. Could have fit a medium as well. I really think the 100mm fork is an injustice to the performance of the bike. Two items that I'm looking at is a high engagement rear hub and a 120-130 fork. I'll have to ride it for awhile, but I'm pretty happy with the choice.


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## SeanMurr123 (Jul 23, 2016)

markalolo said:


> Thanks for the tip. I just ordered the spring and look forward to trying it out! Are the special Manitou tools required or just "nice to have?"


You can modify a cassette socket by grinding a slot big enough for the spring rod to slip through. I just used a cheap one I had lying around. You could try some circlip pliers but not sure how successful you'll be. The other tools in the service pack aren't anything specific.


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## Crave SL (Apr 12, 2016)

Flash said:


> Looks like I'll be getting a Fuse Comp to rotate with my Epic. Any reviews on the Manitou Machete? Also wondering about the Tektro brakes. Planned upgrades are SWorks bar, WCS carbon post, tubeless Rocket Rons. Intended purpose will be larger footprint xc bike. No race bike and no huck bike. Might stick the Nicotines on in winter for some fun. Just hoping the fork and brakes are serviceable. I don't mind upgrading the brakes later but really don't want to spring for a new fork. The price point on the Comp is at my limit for a spare bike. Planned on a 2017 in black /moto green but now I see the 2018 is black with red. Might wait for that.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


The tektro brakes are pretty solid actually for a low to mid level brake. I have them on my primary bike. Xtr brakeset was only going to save 48g so to me it wasnt worth the money.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

I know it has been depicted before in a very elaborate post but I wanna point it out once more:

There is very little grease inside the rear hub, bottom bracket and headset, if water comes inside these bearings will be shot in no time!














































I know it should've been Specialized's job but nearly every brand I'm aware of ships their bikes like that!

SO GREASE THESE BEARINGS!!


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## adaycj (Sep 30, 2009)

Steel Calf said:


> I know it has been depicted before in a very elaborate post but I wanna point it out once more:
> 
> There is very little grease inside the rear hub, bottom bracket and headset, if water comes inside these bearings will be shot in no time!
> 
> ...


I see Specialized's rear "cartridge bearing" hub still isn't cartridge, but ball and cone. I also see the rough looking bearings are still loaded in the PF BB shell.

Don't forget the grease the headset too. It is supposed to be "cartridge" too, but the cartridge was such a low quality part the lower bearing came apart exposing the bearings. It also uses a split race on the fork (instead of press on), so there is a entry path for dirt.

You are smarter than me. I let my son ride after reading the specs, assuming cartridge bearings would be reasonably sealed. The rear hub started to wear after the second ride and would never stay tight. The BB and headset died in a few months. Had I packed all of the bearings and adjusted things myself I could have extended the $300 in upgrades out to a more reasonable interval.


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## rallyfan1986 (Jun 24, 2017)

Hi all,

I'm just getting back into mountain biking again (after around 10 years away!), I've bought myself a fuse comp, I believe its the 2016 model - the white one with the Suntour Raidons.

Loving it so far. Much nicer than any bike I've ridden before.

Reading the comments on greasing the bearings, I'm fairly confident with the rear hub and headset - they still look a similar design to 10 years ago.

As for the cranks, its the square taper version that I'm used to! Is it easy to strip down and re build this crank set? are any special tools required?

Thanks!


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

rallyfan1986 said:


> Reading the comments on greasing the bearings, I'm fairly confident with the rear hub and headset - they still look a similar design to 10 years ago.
> 
> As for the cranks, its the square taper version that I'm used to! Is it easy to strip down and re build this crank set? are any special tools required?


It is pretty straightforward, in fact, in many ways it is easier than square taper cranks. The crankset is "self pulling", meaning the crank bolts allow it to pull itself off the spindle. There are a few versions out there, but this Park article shows a few examples: Crank Removal and Installation: Self-Extracting | Park Tool My 2016 Expert has a different crank than yours so I can't tell you exactly which you have.

From there, you need to press the bearings out if you are going to replace them, but in all likelihood you can access the bearings to add more grease without removing them from the BB shell (recommended). Pressing new bearings into a PF30 shell really calls for an actual bearing press.

When you reassemble the crank, note that these styles of crank are very torque sensitive, and you probably need to put more torque on it than you think. Look up the spec, and use a 10mm allen socket in a 3/8" torque wrench to make sure you hit the full torque, otherwise it will wiggle free and make you sad.


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## rallyfan1986 (Jun 24, 2017)

Thanks very much! Doesn't sound too difficult, I'm away on my first proper ride at the weekend, so I'll save it till the following weekend to strip down and grease


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Square taper on a Fuse. No thanks. I didn't think they had square taper at any level. Hole are ready to work on and mostly reliable. Stiffer too. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

Flash said:


> Square taper on a Fuse. No thanks. I didn't think they had square taper at any level. Hole are ready to work on and mostly reliable. Stiffer too.


I don't think he meant his Fuse has square taper, just that square taper bottom brackets are the last variety he worked on, so wasn't familiar with modern BBs.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

phidauex said:


> I don't think he meant his Fuse has square taper, just that square taper bottom brackets are the last variety he worked on, so wasn't familiar with modern BBs.


LOL. Ok, cool. The hollow is much easier to work on and a vast improvement. I don't miss the old square taper.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## rallyfan1986 (Jun 24, 2017)

Yep, last bottom bracket I worked on was the square taper. 

Things have moved on quite a bit since then and just wanted to get my head around how it all works and if I need to buy any specialist tools before finding out halfway through the work that I couldn't complete the job


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## fabrice (Mar 27, 2006)

JScoot said:


> Has anyone dropped a wider range cassette onto your fuse?
> I have a 2016 (10 speed) with X7 rear derailleur and 11-40, would like to drop in a 11-42 or even better a 44 if possible to give it a smaller gear for hills.... will it work, without having to replace other stuff?
> I'd also be open to a 28 tooth chainring but it seems hard to figure how that works with the stock Stout crankset.
> I just need a simple, quick solution, so my wife doesn't get on me for "researching bikes on the internet all the time" again.... help me out!


I also have a 2016 Comp and it was also my concern.
Don't change the cassette just for 2 extra teeth ! That's just 5%, the feeled difference won't be tremendous.
And beware that the X7 derailleur is officially rated for max 36T. Obviously, it handles 4 more, but I don't know if it can handle 2 teeth more over that.
Changing just the chainring is the cost effective solution. 28 or even 26T. Missing a higher gear is much less problematic than missing a lower one.



Steel Calf said:


> you have two options:
> 
> stay with 10 speed setup:
> 28T chainring front + 11-42 cassette rear will give you a 12% lower climbing gear but your top out will be 28/11 which is a bit low
> ...


I went for the second solution :
11-46 Sunrace Cassette
X1 shifter
X1 derailleur
(the latter 2 parts 2nd hand from a friend, barely used)
KMC 11s chain
That's all. The chainring and the chain work well together...

Since the X1 derailleur has a different (longer) cable path, the cable has to be longer... BUT since the cable housing is too long from factory, shortening it makes the cable just long enough 



MozFat said:


> Out of interest, can you confirm there would be no need to change the chainring as well. Will the 11 speed chain run on the 10 speed ring?





SeanMurr123 said:


> Not on the stock stout chainring, the teeth are too wide. I found that out when I was excitedly putting it all back together to test out my new 11 speed!


See above. No problem with my KMC 11s chain on the stock "Stout" chainring.

Now waiting for a RS Reverb Stealth to arrive and replace the Suntour cable dropper


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## chronik (Jul 6, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> The bikes are here but I'm moving right now - will report back once the dust has settled!


Hey there, just purchased a used Fuse in size L. I'm the same as you size wise: 5'11", 34" inseam. Wondering if you have yet to swap the parts between the two sized Fuses you have. Any noticeable improvements on the large?


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

chronik said:


> Hey there, just purchased a used Fuse in size L. I'm the same as you size wise: 5'11", 34" inseam. Wondering if you have yet to swap the parts between the two sized Fuses you have. Any noticeable improvements on the large?


After trying both sizes I decided to settle on the Fuse size M for now, it feels more flickable and fun to ride.

The following adjustments were made:
60mm stem instead of 45mm (size L comes stock with 60mm)
780mm handlebar with 20mm rise and only 5° backsweep (both changes effectively lengthen the cockpit reach)

I converted the drivetrain to Sram GX 1x11 with a sunrace 11-46 cassette which gives me a sufficient 30/46 climbing gear and got rid of that piece of s#$t "YSP03 dropper" from that looser company TranzX

Remember, I consider the Fuse to be a "fun bike" and not a "XC bike with thick tires" thus my motivation to make the smaller frame work




























I think Specialized made a mistake with artificially increasing the sizing gap between M and L frame by speccing a shorter 45mm stem on the M but a longer 60mm on the L so most people will initially consider the M being too short thus buying the L


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## J_Ghost (Sep 10, 2016)

Ok, pretty sure Specialized is having distribution problems. I was quoted a week to get my Comp but now the shop said it could be another month. I put my deposit down 2 weeks ago. I just want my bike. I am in Massachusetts. I called another shop but all they had was a base one.


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## Amdultra (Jul 5, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> I know it has been depicted before in a very elaborate post but I wanna point it out once more:
> 
> There is very little grease inside the rear hub, bottom bracket and headset, if water comes inside these bearings will be shot in no time!
> 
> ...


I would like to do this on my new fuse (just rode it once for about 10 miles cause the retailer rplaeced the fork because of a damage. How difficult is it to disassemble the BB so i can grease it? Im new to mtb tech but already chnged the fot so i think i can do it if its not too difficult...


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> After trying both sizes I decided to settle on the Fuse size M for now, it feels more flickable and fun to ride.
> 
> The following adjustments were made:
> 60mm stem instead of 45mm (size L comes stock with 60mm)
> ...


Very interesting.

Did you find that you were in the same basic riding position on both frames, once adjustments were made?

I got to sit on a med. frame (just sit, not ride) and it helped me to see that I'm in a very similar position on my size small w/70mm stem and riser bars. The main difference is that I'm an inch further over the front wheel on the small, due to the extra 25mm of stem. Other than that, differences seemed negligible. On the trail, that one thing could be a big difference. Perhaps with both pros and cons.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

JScoot said:


> Did you find that you were in the same basic riding position on both frames, once adjustments were made?


Looks like I'm the only one in this thread who owns both frame sizes so let me elaborate 

(just to recap for other readers, I'm 5' 11" with 34.5" inseam)

The Fuse L frame felt a little too long with the stock 60mm stem (It became apparent on a 2 hour ride)
It would be a perfect fit with a shorter 40-45mm stem though (= the one that comes stock on the Fuse size M)

My 2015 Giant Trance size L with 50mm stem has about the same effective cockpit length the Fuse size M has with a 60mm stem (stock length = 45mm)

I rode the Fuse size M today on some very technical, very steep trails and really needed the smaller (lower) frame, I was initially worried the longer 60mm stem may screw the bikes abilities but I'd say its rather the steep headangle what's holding the bike back not the longer stem (I'm wishing for 65.5-66° instead of 67°)

I had some situations where I nearly crashed due to the steep headangle and some other where the smaller frame actually "saved me" (I'm pretty sure I'd have crashed on the L frame due to elevated center of gravity)

That being said, for just casual riding the Fuse size L would be the better choice for people with my measurements (5' 11", 34.5" inseam)

The 3.0" tires ride very comfortably with ridiculously low pressures (11psi front/13 psi rear) but don't seem to offer a significant comfort/grip advantage over more aggressive 2.6" tires with bigger knobs yet the 3.0" are heavier and more prone to sidewall damage, a full suspension with 2.6 tires is far more capable and the better choice in many riding situations, the Fuse is still a lot of fun to ride and a good choice for people who are looking for bike that's everything but boring and doesn't break the bank.


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## Jukis (Sep 26, 2016)

Nope. 2015 Trance size large has 440mm reach whereas Fuse M has 420 and Fuse L has 440. I'm same height as you are and I ride bikes with 450-455mm reach with 35-45mm stems. 15mm Longer stem is going to have more negative effect in your ride in steep hills than 1,5 degree slacker angle could possibly make up for. So I'd say its pretty bad advice to go for a smaller frame for steep, hard trails when its a common trend to go for a larger size and shorter stem for rougher ride and it has been proven all over the world to make riders better at steep hills. Your center of gravity doesnt go higher when you take a larger frame, the bottom bracket height stays the same, Rest is adjustable.


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## J_Ghost (Sep 10, 2016)

I hope I made the right choice, I am 5'10-5'11 and went medium. I didn't know so I just went with the size that was recommended to me.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Jukis said:


> Nope. 2015 Trance size large has 440mm reach whereas Fuse M has 420 and Fuse L has 440.


no offense pal but I think that I'm smarter than you on this one.

Just comparing reach numbers without considering stack heights leads to false conclusions. In order to objectively compare reach numbers across different frames you've to assume same stack height, e.g. the same rider would want to have the same handlebar height on M and L frame.

Trance L frame: 440mm reach / 591mm stack

Fuse L frame: 440mm + (633 Stack - 591 Stack)/tan67 = 457mm Reach (= 17mm more reach at same handlebar height than Trance)

Fuse M frame: 420mm + (619 Stack - 591 Stack)/tan67 = 432mm Reach (= 8mm less reach at same handlebar height than Trance)

as you can see the Fuse size M is closer to the Trance size L than the reach numbers alone would initally suggest.

I run a 50mm stem on my Trance with 785mm bars and could now either run a 60mm (50+8) stem on the Fuse size M or a 35mm (50-17) stem on the Fuse size L. I don't think a super short 35mm stem would suit a hardtail with a 120mm fork and rather steep headangle of 67°, yes shorter is usually better but only when it suits the bikes overall geometry and we're talking 35mm vs 60mm stems here, not 50mm vs. 90mm.

A smaller frame has many advantages in steep terrain, you can keep your body much closer to the ground due to the shorter seat tube and if you crash get rid of the bike equally fast. Again, this is not about "purposely choosing a frame too small" but rather choosing a framesize + stem length combo that gives me the best possible riding characteristics.

I'm aware that the majority of riders in this thread with my size prefer the larger frame and it actually looks more proportionally on the pictures but the math and my own experience says otherwise.


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## SeanMurr123 (Jul 23, 2016)

J_Ghost said:


> I hope I made the right choice, I am 5'10-5'11 and went medium. I didn't know so I just went with the size that was recommended to me.


I'm 5'10 and have the M. I've never felt that it is too small.


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## MozFat (Dec 16, 2016)

J_Ghost said:


> I hope I made the right choice, I am 5'10-5'11 and went medium. I didn't know so I just went with the size that was recommended to me.


Don't sweat it, just ride the crap out of it. This is being over analysed and unless your queing up for the TdF or a World Cup a cm hear or there won't be the end of the world.
Steel Calf is onto it. Personally I'd rather be on the small side than too big, within reason. Less bike to wrestle with.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

I'm 5-11 and have a large expert. Medium was too cramped for me. It's all personal preference, no internet hero will ever dictate what size I need. Test rides do that just fine. And either size will work with stem and or bar selection for those in between sizes.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Just to clarify, with the stock components I too considered the Medium too cramped/short

So when people say "I'm 5'11" just tried the medium and it felt too small" I'm inclined to agree!

If you compare both sizes based on stock components alone the L sized Fuse is effectively 40mm longer than the Medium due to 25mm more frame reach (calculated based on same stack) + 15mm longer stem

However, by changing to a 60mm stem and wider 780mm handlebar with less backsweep (I prefer 7-8° over 9°) you gain up to 30-35mm reach.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

That's the tough part about test rides. You usually can't swap out stems. I'm 5'11" 33 inseam. Still inclined to go with large. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> Trance L frame: 440mm reach / 591mm stack
> 
> Fuse L frame: 440mm + (633 Stack - 591 Stack)/tan67 = 457mm Reach (= 17mm more reach at same handlebar height than Trance)
> 
> Fuse M frame: 420mm + (619 Stack - 591 Stack)/tan67 = 432mm Reach (= 8mm less reach at same handlebar height than Trance)


Can you elaborate a bit on this formula? I can follow the math, but I don't get what the "tan67" part represents. Would like to be able to do these calculations myself to determine effective reach.

Thanks, I'm in the mood to learn something new today.


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## rallyfan1986 (Jun 24, 2017)

Deleted


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## rallyfan1986 (Jun 24, 2017)

Flash said:


> That's the tough part about test rides. You usually can't swap out stems. I'm 5'11" 33 inseam. Still inclined to go with large.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


I'm similar size to you and I went with large.

Perfect size for xc or general riding. If the majority of my riding involved dirt jumps and drops I think a medium would be a better fit, but as I ride 80% to 90% trails and occasionally do the odd jump or technical downhill/fast section the large was the right choice for me


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## Ramia (Apr 2, 2017)

*Stout XC SL 38*

T have a fuse comp 2017, with purgatory 3.0 2bliss ready and groundcontrol 3.0 2bliss ready, can I go tubeless with the stock rims Stout XC SL38?, thanks, sorry for my english


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## AVLthumper (Jul 14, 2015)

Ramia said:


> T have a fuse comp 2017, with purgatory 3.0 2bliss ready and groundcontrol 3.0 2bliss ready, can I go tubeless with the stock rims Stout XC SL38?, thanks, sorry for my english


Check to see if they came taped. If they didn't, you can pick a roll up at your LBS. You'll need valves and sealant too.

Air compressor will help, but I usually use a tube to set both beads. Then break just one side and pull the tube out. You should be able to set the second bead with a regular hand pump afterwards. Take it for a spin to distribute sealant and check it in the morning to make sure it's holding air.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## Ramia (Apr 2, 2017)

AVLthumper said:


> Check to see if they came taped. If they didn't, you can pick a roll up at your LBS. You'll need valves and sealant too.
> 
> Air compressor will help, but I usually use a tube to set both beads. Then break just one side and pull the tube out. You should be able to set the second bead with a regular hand pump afterwards. Take it for a spin to distribute sealant and check it in the morning to make sure it's holding air.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Thanks I'll try

Enviado desde mi FRD-L04 mediante Tapatalk


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## jujuyak (Feb 16, 2008)

I'm wanting to hear from people who have put 29er wheels on their fuse. Thinking about having a second wheel set.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

jujuyak said:


> I'm wanting to hear from people who have put 29er wheels on their fuse. Thinking about having a second wheel set.


there was a dedicated Fuse thread on mtbr where people posted stuff like this, I cannot find it right now but it's close sighhh...


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## jujuyak (Feb 16, 2008)

Thanks. I'll try and find it.


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## SeanMurr123 (Jul 23, 2016)

jujuyak said:


> I'm wanting to hear from people who have put 29er wheels on their fuse. Thinking about having a second wheel set.


I have some slicks on 29's that I use when I feel like commuting on it. What would you like to know?


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

All new carbon wheel set, 29 x 36mm ID width, now running Maxxis Ikon 2.35 TL, planning on 2.6 tires when more appear later. (After thorough research, 36mm appears ideal for 2.6 tires.) 

What do you want to know? I'd not go back to 27.5+, but I'm 6-3, 245# on a light day, and feel like a clown on anything smaller than 29.

I planned on 29 x 36mm carbon wheels with 2.6 tires when I bought my Fuse.


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## Dorf411 (Jan 21, 2016)

Ugg.....my rear wheel is toast! This evening when doing some chain cleaning and light wipe down I noticed the rear wheel had four eyelets that were cracked on the rim on the drive side. Not really sure why this happened, I am 230lbs but getting old so I don't hammer like I used to. I had been doing some minor wheel truing and most of the adjustments needed were on the non-drive side. Now trying to decide if I want to buy a replacement 27+ wheelset or get a 29+ and go with 2.6" which I have been considering for a while.


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## jujuyak (Feb 16, 2008)

Thanks for Y'alls replies. I just seem to like 29 a bit better than 27+. I am thinking about a 29er wheelset for my fuse but wanted to here from people who have done the same on the trail before I make up my mind. How does it handle with 29x2.3 tires for example. I also have a Krampus and a Woodsmoke. Hoping more 2.5-2.6 come out soon. 
Thanks


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

I just came across this very interesting article concerning sizing and what to do if you're in between two frame sizes:

http://enduro-mtb.com/en/right-frame-size-mtb/

bottom line, you can make both sizes work.


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## Amdultra (Jul 5, 2017)

Amdultra said:


> I would like to do this on my new fuse (just rode it once for about 10 miles cause the retailer rplaeced the fork because of a damage. How difficult is it to disassemble the BB so i can grease it? Im new to mtb tech but already chnged the fot so i think i can do it if its not too difficult...


No tips for me?


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Amdultra said:


> How difficult is it to disassemble the BB so i can grease it? Im new to mtb tech but already chnged the fot


Depends on how difficult it is for you to read some articles or watch a YouTube video that shows the procedure. If you've already changed a tire - well that's a start

When I don't know something I don't fall into helplessness but instead leverage the knowledge of the Internet to educate myself, there's always someone who had the same issue before me and already posted a solution, there's always someone who's done the work before and documented the whole thing


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

According to this 27.5+ tires are faster than 29

27.5+ vs 29 bikes: what's faster? - BikeRadar

now the question is how 29" 2.6 wheels fit in but I wouldn't mount them on the Fuse, it takes away too much of the bike's playfullness IMO


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## AVLthumper (Jul 14, 2015)

Guerdonian said:


> Just joined the club last week. 2017 Fuse Expert Carbon in the amazing nordic red color! I Have about 80 miles on her already. Now I have two specialized carbon 650+ bikes in the quiver, the stumpy sixfatty in the background is also mine.
> 
> Planned upgrades:
> Carbon bars, ergon grips, trail bell, SWAT tube and CO2 seat pack, front mini-fender.
> ...


How are you liking the Carbon Fuse? I'm contemplating the Expert Carbon Fuse or a steel hardtail 27.5+. I have one of the new Salsa Fargos in 27.5+, and that steel frame and big tires is so great that it has me wanting a hardtail! My only concern with the Fuse is the carbon frame. Does the frame stiffness beat you up at the end of the day?


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## jbowland (May 7, 2004)

AVLthumper said:


> How are you liking the Carbon Fuse? I'm contemplating the Expert Carbon Fuse or a steel hardtail 27.5+. I have one of the new Salsa Fargos in 27.5+, and that steel frame and big tires is so great that it has me wanting a hardtail! My only concern with the Fuse is the carbon frame. Does the frame stiffness beat you up at the end of the day?


With the 3" tires it's got a very good ride. With 29" x 2.3" tires it's a bit stiff. That carbon frame is very, very stiff. It's overbuilt for heavy use. I jump and huck and rattle my bike and it just doesn't care.


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## AVLthumper (Jul 14, 2015)

jbowland said:


> With the 3" tires it's got a very good ride. With 29" x 2.3" tires it's a bit stiff. That carbon frame is very, very stiff. It's overbuilt for heavy use. I jump and huck and rattle my bike and it just doesn't care.


Thanks for responding. The expert carbon keeps inching up to the top of my list! It just checks so many boxes for me for a stock bike. All the steel frame bikes I like would need to be custom builds, and I don't really want to do a custom build this time around. I think I will wait and see if a GX 1x12 build is offered for this year.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## jbowland (May 7, 2004)

AVLthumper said:


> Thanks for responding. The expert carbon keeps inching up to the top of my list! It just checks so many boxes for me for a stock bike. All the steel frame bikes I like would need to be custom builds, and I don't really want to do a custom build this time around. I think I will wait and see if a GX 1x12 build is offered for this year.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Good luck, you might have to wait for a 2018 for the 1x12. I could ask our local dealer. While it's a cool bike they sell 10x more stump jumpers. I might have the only fuse carbon in my area.


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## AVLthumper (Jul 14, 2015)

I live in western NC, and we have some of the best trails on east coast. You definitely see more FS bikes on any given ride, but the simplicity of a HT can't be beat. I get a lot of strange looks riding my rigid Fargo with drop bars on trails from guys with 6-7" FS bikes! From my experience, you can ride any bike on any trail...it just depend on how fast you want to get down the mountain. I was waiting to see if Specialized updates their website soon regarding any component changes. Otherwise, I'll probably be pulling the trigger on an expert carbon in the next few weeks.


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## nmeofun (Jul 20, 2012)

Steel Calf said:


> According to this 27.5+ tires are faster than 29
> 
> 27.5+ vs 29 bikes: what's faster? - BikeRadar
> 
> now the question is how 29" 2.6 wheels fit in but I wouldn't mount them on the Fuse, it takes away too much of the bike's playfullness IMO


This I agree with. My riding buddy was all hot to show me how he put 29 x 2.4 rims/tires on his 27.5+ bike. I just laughed and asked why he wanted a second 29er hard-tail. I bought the plus bike because it was fun. I rode it so much I sold my Niner Air9 and upgraded my Fuse.

I have a spare set of 29er wheels for my FS bike, but the thought has never crossed my mind to put them on my Fuse. Don't see it in my future either. Plus sized tires are just too much fun!


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## krel (May 9, 2017)

nmeofun said:


> This I agree with. My riding buddy was all hot to show me how he put 29 x 2.4 rims/tires on his 27.5+ bike. I just laughed and asked why he wanted a second 29er hard-tail. I bought the plus bike because it was fun. I rode it so much I sold my Niner Air9 and upgraded my Fuse.
> 
> I have a spare set of 29er wheels for my FS bike, but the thought has never crossed my mind to put them on my Fuse. Don't see it in my future either. Plus sized tires are just too much fun!


If it's your only bike, though...


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

I call everyone who puts narrow 29" wheels in his Fuse a traitor


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

I like my Fuse with "skinny" 29 wheels more than plus more often than not. Oh well.

Btw, selling mine to get a carbon Fuse. $1700 in Maryland. Someone jump on it.

** Picture is pre-dropper and drivetrain swap.


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## Doodasi (Feb 12, 2017)

Amdultra said:


> I would like to do this on my new fuse (just rode it once for about 10 miles cause the retailer rplaeced the fork because of a damage. How difficult is it to disassemble the BB so i can grease it? Im new to mtb tech but already chnged the fot so i think i can do it if its not too difficult...


I just dropped the chain, removed crank on one side, and gently pounded the hollow shaft through. Use something dull, slightly larger than the diameter of a pin to get behind the seal on the inner race portion, and pop out the seal. The front hub bearing, and head tube bearings also have PETROLIUM JELLY (vaseline) in the bearings. This is not grease! The front hub is tricky, and requires some special tool? Being a regular mechanic with over 40k$ worth of tools, I just used a vise grip screwed onto a slide hammer to pop out those aluminum metal thingys?, and would not recommend you doing the same, because I'm me. Good luck!


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

oKayH said:


> I like my Fuse with "skinny" 29 wheels more than plus more often than not. Oh well.
> 
> Btw, selling mine to get a carbon Fuse. $1700 in Maryland. Someone jump on it.
> 
> ** Picture is pre-dropper and drivetrain swap.


Sweet build. If I were planning to reconfigure my quiver, I could see starting with that.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## rallyfan1986 (Jun 24, 2017)

Finally stripped down the bottom bracket and greased it all up properly - as the above photos, not much grease in there! Very easy job if anyone else is looking to do the same.

Also, my front hub has some play in it, not loads, but more than I would think is normal. Any ideas how to tighten it up?


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## Doodasi (Feb 12, 2017)

rallyfan1986 said:


> Finally stripped down the bottom bracket and greased it all up properly - as the above photos, not much grease in there! Very easy job if anyone else is looking to do the same.
> 
> Also, my front hub has some play in it, not loads, but more than I would think is normal. Any ideas how to tighten it up?


Those are caged roller bearings just like your bottom bracket. They are not tapered. A little play is o.k. on that type of bearing for one, but if there is 2 togeather on a hub, it should have vurtually none. Maybe they need to get smushed togeather a smidge more. Same issue with the petrolium jelly in the bearings too. You might have wiped out a bearing in the hub.


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## rockychrysler (Aug 9, 2003)

Doodasi said:


> ...the petrolium jelly in the bearings...


So this prolly explains the loud creaking emanating from my bottom bracket which grown increasingly worse throughout our rainy season, huh?


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## Doodasi (Feb 12, 2017)

rockychrysler said:


> So this prolly explains the loud creaking emanating from my bottom bracket which grown increasingly worse throughout our rainy season, huh?


Lol... Like I said a while ago in this post. Those bearings are made, and packaged with petrolium jelly, as a rust preventative from the manufacturer. Manufactures of things like brake rotors use cosmoline. A fender for instance is anodized with nickel, and paint. Specialized, and many other companies assume it is ready to go, and it is not. The manufacturer of those bearings does exactly what they are supposed to do. Prevent them from rusting for simple reasons. The manufacturer is unaware of the application. It is not their job to know what to stuff in it. They just make the part. You grease it!


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## Doodasi (Feb 12, 2017)

Doodasi said:


> Lol... Like I said a while ago in this post. Those bearings are made, and packaged with petrolium jelly, as a rust preventative from the manufacturer. Manufactures of things like brake rotors use cosmoline. A fender for instance is anodized with nickel, and paint. Specialized, and many other companies assume it is ready to go, and it is not. The manufacturer of those bearings does exactly what they are supposed to do. Prevent them from rusting for simple reasons. The manufacturer is unaware of the application. It is not their job to know what to stuff in it. They just make the part. You grease it!


You creaking could possibly be coming from outer race to housing movement.


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## Doodasi (Feb 12, 2017)

Doodasi said:


> You creaking could possibly be coming from outer race to housing movement.


If I was me, I would take the crankshaft, and bearings out, clean them really well, and lightly slather the outer races with loctite sleeve retainer before spending bunches of money on that other deal with the thread thing. If it is the crankshaft making the noise, i would not loctite that, because removing it again would not be fun. Just a thought.


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## Doodasi (Feb 12, 2017)

Once again. I'm just a mechanic, but a real good one. I can be wrong, and I can wreck stuff.


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

Doodasi said:


> If I was me, I would take the crankshaft, and bearings out, clean them really well, and lightly slather the outer races with loctite sleeve retainer before spending bunches of money on that other deal with the thread thing. If it is the crankshaft making the noise, i would not loctite that, because removing it again would not be fun. Just a thought.


Agreed - if you catch it early, most creaking issues can be solved by a disassemble, clean and regrease. When you reassemble, use a real torque wrench to attach the crank bolt (the torque is higher than you think, and you probably won't get there if you are just using an allen wrench), and don't use loctite on it, though a little grease on the threads can help it get started.

If that whole process doesn't work then an upgrade to the Wheels Mfg threaded PF30 BB is a good next step.


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## Doodasi (Feb 12, 2017)

phidauex said:


> Agreed - if you catch it early, most creaking issues can be solved by a disassemble, clean and regrease. When you reassemble, use a real torque wrench to attach the crank bolt (the torque is higher than you think, and you probably won't get there if you are just using an allen wrench), and don't use loctite on it, though a little grease on the threads can help it get started.
> 
> If that whole process doesn't work then an upgrade to the Wheels Mfg threaded PF30 BB is a good next step.


Replacing it with a better bearing is best, and easiest, but being a mechanic, I would really like to know the actual cause. I have not heard of one yet. My best guess would be a press fit that became loose from movement, possibly from a binding bearing (lack of grease), or excessive load (cheap part). A small amount of movement on an outer race to housing shell, or shell to frame can resonate a lot of noise on an aluminum frame just like a tuning fork. If it ever happens to me, I will take everything apart, do some measuring, and find out why. It os my estimate that you should have around .003" press fit on stuff like this. Loctite sleeve retainer would just be an added measure. Probably a temporary solution for a permanent problem though.

If anyone knows for sure why these make noise, I would really like to hear about it, other than the standard "it's junk". I'm just using my experience as an educated guess, and I really doubt I'm wrong.

This is not an industrial machine, or a car, but I am really questioning why all of the bb, screw, or press have nothing holding the outer race in on the outside. There is just a clip on the inside, a pressed in sealed bearing, and a dust seal on the outside. No outer clip? No way to shim it if it gets loose? Just a throw away part. They are all cheap if you ask me.


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

Doodasi said:


> ....
> 
> If anyone knows for sure why these make noise, I would really like to hear about it, other than the standard "it's junk". I'm just using my experience as an educated guess, and I really doubt I'm wrong.
> 
> This is not an industrial machine, or a car, but I am really questioning why all of the bb, screw, or press have nothing holding the outer race in on the outside. There is just a clip on the inside, a pressed in sealed bearing, and a dust seal on the outside. No outer clip? No way to shim it if it gets loose? Just a throw away part. They are all cheap if you ask me.


I don't know the final answer, but I have a few theories.


Using radial contact bearings for a part that takes a lot of axial loads means you can never really set preload perfectly because the inner bearing race is taking axial load and trying to rotate "left to right" at the same time as "forward". This just starts shaking the bearings apart over time.
Poor tolerances in the PF shell from heat warping means the two sides of the shell may not be coaxial with each other - they could be offset in a variety of ways.
No great way to set preload other than loading shims in, which is fairly inaccurate.
Reliance on a splined connection that needs a ton of torque, which most people under-secure since a regular allen wrench or multitool can't apply enough torque to truly seat the crankarm on the spline.
Poor factory lubrication (why repack when you can just assemble and send it out?)
Cheap parts used throughout, because people see it as a replaceable component anyway, so why work hard on it?

Better bottom brackets use angular contact bearings which can take more axial loads and are easier to set preload on, and Enduro and Wheels MFG (and maybe others) make a thread-in PF bottom bracket that lets each side thread onto an internal sleeve, this lets them "pull" toward the center, which should limit some of the way that the two sides can become misaligned relative to one another. (PF30 Threaded Angular Contact BB (Black))

These just strike me as a much better design overall, but no one would pay an additional $75 MSRP on the bike to get it, since it isn't a go-fast bit, shiny, carbon, or otherwise visible.


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## Doodasi (Feb 12, 2017)

I was not aware that the Wheels bb had angular bearings in them. Just like a car hub. Car hub has both inner races butted up against each other. These bb designs have nothing there. No pre-load. No way to get it too tight, or too loose. Does work good though. Relatively friction free. Probably just talked me into upgrading if I have any issues. Thanks!


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## overmyhead (Apr 26, 2017)

SeanMurr123 said:


> I'm 5'10 and have the M. I've never felt that it is too small.


I'm 5'11" (30.5" inseam, longish torso) and went with a large frame.

It's a very comfortable, roomy fit though I'm not looking for a super aggressive riding stance at this point in my life.

Given my proportions, wondering if anybody would recommend a 45mm stem.


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## J_Ghost (Sep 10, 2016)

Waited a long time but finally got her! 2018 Comp, Large frame, matte black with red decals. I am a newbie but the tires feel pretty stable and want to just keep rolling. I use it on the street some too, hence the reflectors.


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

J_Ghost said:


> Waited a long time but finally got her! 2018 Comp, Large frame, matte black with red decals. I am a newbie but the tires feel pretty stable and want to just keep rolling. I use it on the street some too, hence the reflectors.
> 
> View attachment 1150373


Looks great!

If you want to keep the reflecting ability, but ditch the funny looking wheel reflectors (maybe they don't bother you, but I've never liked them), then the 3M black reflecting tape is excellent. You can cut short strips and put them between your spokes - the tape is black in daylight, but reflects a bright white. Looks stealth during the day, and safer at night. I'm a big believer.


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## J_Ghost (Sep 10, 2016)

phidauex said:


> Looks great!
> 
> If you want to keep the reflecting ability, but ditch the funny looking wheel reflectors (maybe they don't bother you, but I've never liked them), then the 3M black reflecting tape is excellent. You can cut short strips and put them between your spokes - the tape is black in daylight, but reflects a bright white. Looks stealth during the day, and safer at night. I'm a big believer.


Thanks for the thought! A black bike with clear plastic doesn't look great. Many people rip off the rear chain guard disc too, I heard that was a safety feature and it bothers me less. What do you mean exactly by "between the spokes?" Wrap each spoke with the tape?

Edit: looked for the tape on Amazon. I see gold, orange, red, can't find black for some reason.


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## krel (May 9, 2017)

My fuse is still two weeks away according to my LBS. *sigh*


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## J_Ghost (Sep 10, 2016)

krel said:


> My fuse is still two weeks away according to my LBS. *sigh*


I ordered mine right when they stopped the production run of 2017s, the shop didn't know. I had to re-order a 2018 which came in a different color. At the same time I swapped the frame size because I got a second opinion. The whole process took me like 6 weeks. Two weeks for something this awesome feels like an eternity though.


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## J_Ghost (Sep 10, 2016)

What are the capability limits of a Fuse Comp, just so I know what I bought? I was steered towards a nice hardtail by a group partly for budget. Probably much higher than anything I have the nerve to try. Mostly doing rocky forest singletrack, live in MA. Thanks.


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## krel (May 9, 2017)

J_Ghost said:


> I ordered mine right when they stopped the production run of 2017s, the shop didn't know. I had to re-order a 2018 which came in a different color. At the same time I swapped the frame size because I got a second opinion. The whole process took me like 6 weeks. Two weeks for something this awesome feels like an eternity though.


Yeah... I started talking to the shop I ordered through in May/early June, just as they were running out of the 2017 models.  The rockhoppers I bought for my sons got here a week ago, I just don't want to wait anymore because I'm being impatient


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## apriliano (Mar 21, 2007)

J_Ghost said:


> What are the capability limits of a Fuse Comp, just so I know what I bought? I was steered towards a nice hardtail by a group partly for budget. Probably much higher than anything I have the nerve to try. Mostly doing rocky forest singletrack, live in MA. Thanks.


Unlimited capabilities 
Unlimited fun


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

J_Ghost said:


> Thanks for the thought! A black bike with clear plastic doesn't look great. Many people rip off the rear chain guard disc too, I heard that was a safety feature and it bothers me less. What do you mean exactly by "between the spokes?" Wrap each spoke with the tape?
> 
> Edit: looked for the tape on Amazon. I see gold, orange, red, can't find black for some reason.


Here are a few pics that should help - these are on my winter wheels, which also have reflex sidewall tires. The first is without flash, the second with. I cut strips of tape and put them on the rim, between the spokes.

















As for finding it, you want to search for "Scotchlite Black". There are sellers on amazon selling some kits for motorcycles that include it, and a 50' roll of it which is quite pricey. This eBay seller is selling 10' quantities of it for a good price in 1/2" and 1" widths: 3M Scotchlite 680CR Series BLACK Reflective tape

You can also ditch the plastic disc between the cassette and the wheel. It doesn't hurt anything by being there, but doesn't help either, and like it or not, it screams "I just bought my first bike".


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

J_Ghost said:


> What are the capability limits of a Fuse Comp, just so I know what I bought? I was steered towards a nice hardtail by a group partly for budget. Probably much higher than anything I have the nerve to try. Mostly doing rocky forest singletrack, live in MA. Thanks.


The only limitation is you! Lee McCormack, author of the rightfully popular "Mastering Mountain Bike Skills" rides (among other things) a Fuse Pro at a level you or I are nowhere near.


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

You can also ditch the plastic disc between the cassette and the wheel. It doesn't hurt anything by being there, but doesn't help either, and like it or not, it screams "I just bought my first bike". 

Stuff happens! I left mine on my Fuse and it did overshift into the spokes one time, glad it was there.


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

WMBigs said:


> Stuff happens! I left mine on my Fuse and it did overshift into the spokes one time, glad it was there.


I suppose anything can happen! I haven't dropped a chain off the big cog in probably a 15 years or more. Don't forget to check your derailleur high and low limit screws - they are largely "set and forget", but about the most important adjustment you can make.


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## gmrviper (Oct 3, 2007)

I found it interesting reading the sizing issues on the previous page. I had my local shop build up a medium for me because i was not a fan of the light blue large they had in stock. The medium felt very odd, it felt like I was not a part of the bike. I have always ridden medium and have always had lower back issues. Maybe a large will help a bit. Either way looking forward to getting a 2018 red/black base model on Wednesday. Looks like a very fun bike on the trails. 5'11" fyi

Did I read correctly that a person can put 29er wheels on this?


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## J_Ghost (Sep 10, 2016)

gmrviper said:


> Did I read correctly that a person can put 29er wheels on this?


Yes you can, but you need a different set of rims themselves, you can't just swap the tires. The inner diameter of 27.5+ is the same as 27.5 and the outer diameter is similar to 29. Unless you are running it on the street though, and need less knobby tires, I probably wouldn't. Here is an article talking about swapping the other way, 29er to plus: https://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-gear/how-to-convert-your-29er-to-a-27-5-all-trail-bike/


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## gmrviper (Oct 3, 2007)

Interesting, thanks for the info. To be honest I haven't really liked the 29ers I have purchased, BUT its always nice to have options.


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## gmrviper (Oct 3, 2007)

Also a curiosity question that I probably missed in this thread. How much do these rigs weigh? Thanks again.


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

gmrviper said:


> Also a curiosity question that I probably missed in this thread. How much do these rigs weigh? Thanks again.


Moderate, for comparable trail rigs. My Medium 2016 Fuse Pro (aluminum frame) weighed ~32 lbs dead stock, and now weighs about 28.5 lbs after changing to carbon wheels (Bontrager Line Pro 40), carbon bar, and tubeless (and a few other tweaks that are about break-even on weight).


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## gmrviper (Oct 3, 2007)

phidauex said:


> Moderate, for comparable trail rigs. My Medium 2016 Fuse Pro (aluminum frame) weighed ~32 lbs dead stock, and now weighs about 28.5 lbs after changing to carbon wheels (Bontrager Line Pro 40), carbon bar, and tubeless (and a few other tweaks that are about break-even on weight).


That's not too bad. Ill set mind up tubeless right away. Other than that I plan to just ride it. Still hoping it shows by the weekend.


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## HHL (Nov 24, 2004)

2016 Fuse Pro large-dropped the dropper (not my main squeeze in that type of terrain), Rekon 2.8 in back, Roval carbon wheels tubless, just over 26 lbs. These are the 3 biggest weight savers on this bike. Carbon stem/bar also-negligible weight savings.


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## Jondon83 (Aug 12, 2017)

I have a question about tyre sizes and if anyone out there can help I'll be eternally grateful. I'm looking to buy some new tyres for my fuse expert 6fattie and was looking at 
Schwalbe Nobby Nic 27.5x2.8 on the rear and Schwalbe Magic Mary 27.5x2.6 on the front, my question is, will I be able to put the 2.6inch tyre on the rim that comes with the bike or will I need a new one also does this sound like a good combination?


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Jondon83 said:


> will I be able to put the 2.6inch tyre on the rim that comes with the bike


sure you can, which better or worse results depending on which rim you've got (I cannot even google that since you didn't specify which model year "Fuse expert" you're on)


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## Jondon83 (Aug 12, 2017)

Sorry buddy, it's the 2017 model with WTB Scraper I 45 650b, 45mm rims, you think the 2.6inch tyre will fit? I've seen a great deal for both tyres at around £70 and don't really have the cash to spend more at the moment.. Thanks for the advice man, I really have no clue when it comes to any technical stuff..


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

I wouldn't recommend 2.6 tires on 45mm rims for various reasons, try 2.8 instead


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Personally I would not risk it because of the lack of protection for the rim. I'm guessing the lowest I'd want to go would be a 2.8.

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## Jondon83 (Aug 12, 2017)

Thanks guys, gonna spend a wee bit extra and get 2.8 or 3 inch..


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## dpattax (Aug 16, 2017)

Just got the '18 Comp in and can't seem to find a bash guard compatible with the Stout XC 28t (76mm BCD Spider). I've searched this thread as well as others only found a link that didn't work for wolf tooth components. I checked their site and didn't find anything either. Anyone find a compatible one?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Double post post


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

This will work and is super easy to install. I've been beating on it for over a year on my FSR 6 Fattie.
https://77designz.com/en/crash-plates/16-crash-plate-iscg-05

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## dpattax (Aug 16, 2017)

phride said:


> This will work and is super easy to install. I've been beating on it for over a year on my FSR 6 Fattie.
> https://77designz.com/en/crash-plates/16-crash-plate-iscg-05
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


I like how small it is, but the fuse didn't come with any ISCG tabs. If I add the tabs with a BB adapter, then the BB is going to take the force if I hit something and not the frame, and I'm not sure how I feel about that. How did you get yours on?

Anyone else find a bash guard to fit the chainring?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I got tabs. The frame takes the hit, and it's burly down there.

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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Yeah That's the one I have on my bike and works great and won't have any effect towards the BB since it's part of the frame.


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

Pic of my 2016 Fuse Pro up in Teton. Still loving the bike!


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Just picked up A Fuse Pro frame. Any suggestions for a PF to 24 BB? I'd like to run my Shimano crank if I can get the correct chain line. 

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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

Flash said:


> Just picked up A Fuse Pro frame. Any suggestions for a PF to 24 BB? I'd like to run my Shimano crank if I can get the correct chain line.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


If you still have the PF30 bb in the frame, then this adapter will do the trick: http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket...-for-24mm-spindle-cranks-shimano-fsa-etc.html

If you need a bb too, then you can use any PF30 bb, but this threaded angular contact one from Wheels MFG is a great problem solver, and is a lot less likely to creak than a standard PF30, and is a good choice for replacement on the Fuse in general. http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket...s/pf30-threaded-angular-contact-bb-black.html


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

phidauex said:


> If you still have the PF30 bb in the frame, then this adapter will do the trick: http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket...-for-24mm-spindle-cranks-shimano-fsa-etc.html
> 
> If you need a bb too, then you can use any PF30 bb, but this threaded angular contact one from Wheels MFG is a great problem solver, and is a lot less likely to creak than a standard PF30, and is a good choice for replacement on the Fuse in general. http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket...s/pf30-threaded-angular-contact-bb-black.html


Nothing in the frame. Just picked up a Race Face crank. I just need a press in BB for the 24mm spindle. From what I've read the RF is compatible with Shimano 24mm as well.

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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

New bike day!







After stopping by the lbs while on a trip to lowes, I couldn't get this thing out of my mind. I debated for four days if I wanted to make the switch and read over this entire thread, I decided to make the change. This decision merges three bikes together that I sold with regret. 15 SJ HT, 16 SJ FSR, and 15 P3. I enjoy my k-monk but its a touch too small for me and putting anything over 100mm suspension on it changes the bb/sta too much. This brand new bike will go under the knife before I even ride it, getting pretty much all that is on my surly.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Finished up tonight, only stock parts left are the bb and rear axle. Stock weight was 32.36lbs and loss over 4lbs down to 28.25lbs. First outing set for tomorrow.







Fox Elite 34 w/ Kabolt & Transfer 150 dropper w/ wolftooth remote
Cane Creek 40 headset, hope spacer, & AB top cap
Turbine cranks w/ sl spindle & AbsoluteBlack Oval 30t ring
Podium pedals
Hope Pro4 hubs with dt swiss spokes laced to Easton ARC45
WTB trail boss & ranger set up tubeless with Orange
Sram GX 11spd w/ XX1 chain
Shimano SLX brakes w/ 180/160 Icetechs
Easton Haven 35 carbon bar & stem
Ergon Gs1l grips
Twenty6 binder
Chromag Lynx dt saddle


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

SJEVO said:


> Finished up tonight, only stock parts left are the bb and rear axle. Stock weight was 32.36lbs and loss over 4lbs down to 28.25lbs. First outing set for tomorrow.
> View attachment 1154353
> 
> Fox Elite 34 w/ Kabolt & Transfer 150 dropper w/ wolftooth remote
> ...


Yeah.. But what brand is the kid carrier??? Is it full carbon???

j/k, Sweet build, and I'm sure your kid loves riding around with you on it!


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## Hyder88 (Mar 29, 2016)

2016 fuse Comp with the Raidon fork, I am going to build a 29er set of wheels for my fuse which has this fork... I found that wheels I purchased (got off of CL, they came off a Intense Primer) but the end caps on the front hub don't fit... Rear fits just fine but the front does not. The end caps on the hub are to big for the little groove on the bottom of the Radion.. Figured I would just replace the hub. Anyone know for sure a nice cheap hup that will work with this fork? I was looking at the DTSwiss 350 or the XT hub... both cheap.. but open to any options...Thank you..


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

if you cannot get rid of the Torque caps a DT 350 hub is the works


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## Hyder88 (Mar 29, 2016)

Steel Calf said:


> if you cannot get rid of the Torque caps a DT 350 hub is the works


search and searched for new end caps that would work... Hubs are Formula brand out of asia. The wheels came off a Intense Primer Foundation. Rear works just fine its the front that is the problem... I will see if local shop has a DT Swiss 350 and check to make sure it works... I was just hoping someone had already put a set on the Fuse and can confirm fit...


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

phidauex said:


> Yeah.. But what brand is the kid carrier??? Is it full carbon???
> 
> j/k, Sweet build, and I'm sure your kid loves riding around with you on it!


Full on carbon thule, j/k, weight posted was without the 10 some lb kid carrier and 30 some lb kid. She absolutely loves it thou, she has been riding in a burley trailer but now being 2 n half she wants to be more part of the action and this will allow us to access more places to ride. For me it's a hellofa easier to haul her in this rather then the trailer. She is also already riding a little 3 wheeler around the neighborhood, so in another few years she be on her own ripping up the real trails with daddy 

Also I should mention that the 18 models have some changes going on, for one the crank setup is different, now with a spiderless sram type chain ring.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Some better pics before the maiden voyage today, 14 miles on the c&o with the family and other then some slight adjustments to saddle height and pitch, everything work perfectly and was a joy to ride.


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## scrrll (Mar 31, 2017)

Time to upgrade the wheel set. Thought? 


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

scrrll said:


> Time to upgrade the wheel set. Thought?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've been thinking about 29er for mine. WTB i35 with butted spokes and Shimano xt hubs, about $400. Would love to try the Rekon 2.6.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Just got mine built with 27.5 and I ordered boost end cap kit for the 29er wheels. 

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## gmrviper (Oct 3, 2007)

I have a 2018 base model fuse. It has a front axle that i am not familiar with. I am even having issues knowing what it is called. One end I would say is spring loaded and shrinks when you take pressure off. Could someone explain to me how to remove this type of wheel please? I can get the axle to come about 3/4 of the way out but then it just gets stuck. I might just need to cowboy up on it a bit more?


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

gmrviper said:


> I have a 2018 base model fuse. It has a front axle that i am not familiar with. I am even having issues knowing what it is called. One end I would say is spring loaded and shrinks when you take pressure off. Could someone explain to me how to remove this type of wheel please? I can get the axle to come about 3/4 of the way out but then it just gets stuck. I might just need to cowboy up on it a bit more?


Is this a suntour fork you speak of?


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## gmrviper (Oct 3, 2007)

Yes that is correct thanks


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

gmrviper said:


> Yes that is correct thanks


As far as I know it should pull right out as long at you have the qr released, maybe a picture of what your working with will help, don't know if some new type of skewer on the newer bikes.


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## gmrviper (Oct 3, 2007)

Ill try again tomorrow and ill flip the bike upside down, that might make it a bit easier to work with. If not ill post a pic. Thanks


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

gmrviper said:


> I have a 2018 base model fuse. It has a front axle that i am not familiar with. I am even having issues knowing what it is called.


When I come across a new component and don't know how to operate it I usually visit the official website and read the manual.

Now one could think Suntour which is the manufacturer of this mystery axle does nothing to inform their customers on how to operate their Q-Loc axle yet the opposite is true: If the written manual from the official website (which requires reading) isn't for you there are even videos on YouTube explaining the mechanism.


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## gmrviper (Oct 3, 2007)

Steel Calf said:


> When I come across a new component and don't know how to operate it I usually visit the official website and read the manual.
> 
> Now one could think Suntour which is the manufacturer of this mystery axle does nothing to inform their customers on how to operate their Q-Loc axle yet the opposite is true: If the written manual from the official website (which requires reading) isn't for you there are even videos on YouTube explaining the mechanism.


Next time feel free to just mention it is called a Q-Loc the rest of the nonsense is really not necessary.


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## ski1970 (Aug 20, 2007)

Question for all. I am going to sell my2016 fries proframe ( ridden maybe 10 times ) in perfect condition along with the IRC dropper post, carbon specialized cranks, never ridden original Reba fork, stem and riser bars ( new ) and sram LevleTL brakes. Is $750 a good price?


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## ski1970 (Aug 20, 2007)

Question for all. I am going to sell my 2016 fuse pro frame ( ridden maybe 10 times ) in perfect condition along with the IRC dropper post, carbon specialized cranks, never ridden original Reba fork, stem and riser bars ( new ) and sram LevleTL brakes. Is $750 a good price?


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

ski1970 said:


> Question for all. I am going to sell my2016 fries proframe ( ridden maybe 10 times ) in perfect condition along with the IRC dropper post, carbon specialized cranks, never ridden original Reba fork, stem and riser bars ( new ) and sram LevleTL brakes. Is $750 a good price?


Well crap. I just bought game and fork for $650. I'd say thats a nice deal you have.

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## scrrll (Mar 31, 2017)

*What Size?*



ski1970 said:


> Question for all. I am going to sell my 2016 fuse pro frame ( ridden maybe 10 times ) in perfect condition along with the IRC dropper post, carbon specialized cranks, never ridden original Reba fork, stem and riser bars ( new ) and sram LevleTL brakes. Is $750 a good price?


What size?


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## ski1970 (Aug 20, 2007)

It is a size medium


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## ski1970 (Aug 20, 2007)

ski1970 said:


> Question for all. I am going to sell my 2016 fuse pro frame ( ridden maybe 10 times ) in perfect condition along with the IRC dropper post, carbon specialized cranks, never ridden original Reba fork, stem and riser bars ( new ) and sram LevleTL brakes. Is $750 a good price?


I do not know if it matters but I NEVER reregistered it either.


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## scrrll (Mar 31, 2017)

ski1970 said:


> I do not know if it matters but I NEVER reregistered it either.


Put some pictures up.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Finished off with some AMS protection and Slikgrapics stealth camo decals


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

SJEVO said:


> Finished off with some AMS protection and Slikgrapics stealth camo decals
> View attachment 1156947


SJEVO- I see you have the new KM. Can you do a quick comparison between it and the Fuse. I have the Fuse also and would like to build some I35 29er wheel set for it. I think the new KM would be great with some wideish 29er tires. 
Thanks, MikeB


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

WMBigs said:


> SJEVO- I see you have the new KM. Can you do a quick comparison between it and the Fuse. I have the Fuse also and would like to build some I35 29er wheel set for it. I think the new KM would be great with some wideish 29er tires.
> Thanks, MikeB


Both are great bikes and very similar. I honestly only made the change due to sizing and compatibility with suspension forks. The monkey geo is setup for a 100 travel fork and the options are low for boost forks to fit 3.0. The bb rises some with outfitting a k-monk with 120 to be about even with Fuse but the problem is the STA slacks out way too much. The HTA slacks out a bit on the k-monk but still is steeper then the Fuse with the 120. Overall if I was going to stay rigid, I would have probably just got another k-monk in a large size. Both rode about the same due to the plus tires but the K-monk weighed in a couple lbs heavier with the same setup. Some of the issues I found may not be for someone else but I had a certain plan for the bike and felt the Fuse was the better option for me. I could go into more detail if needed later but I'm off to see IT.


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

SJEVO said:


> Both are great bikes and very similar. I honestly only made the change due to sizing and compatibility with suspension forks. The monkey geo is setup for a 100 travel fork and the options are low for boost forks to fit 3.0. The bb rises some with outfitting a k-monk with 120 to be about even with Fuse but the problem is the STA slacks out way too much. The HTA slacks out a bit on the k-monk but still is steeper then the Fuse with the 120. Overall if I was going to stay rigid, I would have probably just got another k-monk in a large size. Both rode about the same due to the plus tires but the K-monk weighed in a couple lbs heavier with the same setup. Some of the issues I found may not be for someone else but I had a certain plan for the bike and felt the Fuse was the better option for me. I could go into more detail if needed later but I'm off to see IT.


More details would be great! My Fuse is a large and the fit is good, maybe a touch too big. I have an older KM in med and it fits real good, maybe touch to small. 5'11" with long legs. Can't help but think the new KM with wideish 29er, rigid to start. Maybe squish is up front later. Probably end up with carbon fork like my present KM.
Enjoy the show, the original It was on tv not long ago, great flick.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

I'm about 6' w/ 33 inseam so had original decided on a large k-monk. I was looking to get a bike would provide a good stable platform for cross country type riding w/ my 2.5yo in a seat behind me. From looking at geo charts, it seemed as I feel in between sizes and either would work but figured the larger size would be better for the purpose I intended. Well, after several failed attempts to get a new frame, I found a used medium and purchased that.

The medium would have been fine it I had intended to rip up and down trails alone but with having the extra weight on the back of the bike and with it being so short with so much seat post out, I was close to being over the rear axle, which pushed the child carrier even further back. For ref, I had a 150 dropper on the bike with about 4" of post after the dropper exposed. 

Med Ops K-monk Med/Lrg Plus K-monk Lrg Fuse
STL 457 419 470 470
TTL 575 582 604 633
ETT 600 610 635 
HTA 72 69 67.5
STA 73 73 73
BB 68 55 51
CS 431 423 430
WB 1065 1103 1129 1161
SH 793 783 812 806
S 602 597 606 629
R 415 427 450 440

I had all these #s written down from prior research, the fork length on the rigid fork of the new K-monk is 483 which is about correct for 100mm travel fork, the Fuse is 530, but the HTA plays a role in all these above #s. From what you have said, I'd say the medium K-monk would fit the best but it also depends on what areas you feel are too small and/or too big.

I can help more with more details on what your looking to do with the bike and what area on each are not a fit. In regards to IT, I'm not easily scared and I jumped slightly 5 times. Def worth the $ spent on Imax tickets for the three of us, my 12y/o barely watched, she was tucked in my wife's arm most of the movie. My generation was haunted by the original, the new one blows it away, the actor playing Pennywise does an excellent job.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

I'm 5'11. 33 inseam. I tested a medium Fuse. Felt too small. I bought a large. After some seat time I always felt like I was going over the bars. I experimented with a 90 which actually measures a little over 80. Feels great. Isn't loose much in steering. Climbs much better. It's odd because I usually like compact fit. Medium Heckler, medium Epic feel great. I always double check the numbers for fit. Sometimes that's are anomalies that can't be explained. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

For anyone interested, Specialized has updated the website with the new info on 2018.


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

SJEVO said:


> I'm about 6' w/ 33 inseam so had original decided on a large k-monk. I was looking to get a bike would provide a good stable platform for cross country type riding w/ my 2.5yo in a seat behind me. From looking at geo charts, it seemed as I feel in between sizes and either would work but figured the larger size would be better for the purpose I intended. Well, after several failed attempts to get a new frame, I found a used medium and purchased that.
> 
> The medium would have been fine it I had intended to rip up and down trails alone but with having the extra weight on the back of the bike and with it being so short with so much seat post out, I was close to being over the rear axle, which pushed the child carrier even further back. For ref, I had a 150 dropper on the bike with about 4" of post after the dropper exposed.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info! We may be going to It this afternoon! Smoke from all fires in Mt is really bad.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

WMBigs said:


> Thanks for the info! We may be going to It this afternoon! Smoke from all fires in Mt is really bad.


No problem, bike fitment is usually a personal preference between the the two sizes your height matches to. Most of the time I go to the smaller size for less of a wheelbase.


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## ski1970 (Aug 20, 2007)

*Here are pics as asked for, 2016 Specialized Fuse pro*



scrrll said:


> Put some pictures up.


You asked for pics and here are some. I am going for $850 OBO. Do you think it is a good price? I never registered it either. There are 3 scratches one on the top tube smaller than a grain of rice and then one on each side of drop outs. The fork was never ridden on. bike has no seat other than stated.


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## scrrll (Mar 31, 2017)

*New Wheels*

New Wheels


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

It doesnt matter if you register it online or not, when sold the serial number is listed under your name at your LBS. 

As for resell:
Id say $750-$850 is a good price.


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## gmrviper (Oct 3, 2007)

I have the base model fuse. Anyone done any gravel racing on their fuse? I have a race coming up in a few weeks and figure ill give it a go.


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

Haven't raced the Fuse, I've done fat bike and 40c and a Trek Y-bike, it seems to me drop bars are important when you're pushing into the wind. Otherwise, pump them up to 20 and see how they roll!


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## gmrviper (Oct 3, 2007)

Yeah that was kinda my plan. A solid fork would be nice, but i figure ill just run with what i have. I really like this bike, its been a really fun bike. For me personally I am a bit faster on it because the big tires just inspire confidence.


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

I run Lauf forks on my gravel bike and my fat bike. They smooth most stuff, and help when the route gets interesting.


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## gmrviper (Oct 3, 2007)

Oh those are nice. I might start looking for a fork if i enjoy this gravel racing, my fuse has a straight tube, so i dont have a lot of aftermarket options. But to be honest i haven't really started digging yet.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

gmrviper said:


> Oh those are nice. I might start looking for a fork if i enjoy this gravel racing, my fuse has a straight tube, so i dont have a lot of aftermarket options. But to be honest i haven't really started digging yet.


What year is your fuse? I didn't think any bike was made with a straight steer tube since like 2010

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk


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## gmrviper (Oct 3, 2007)

tfinator said:


> What year is your fuse? I didn't think any bike was made with a straight steer tube since like 2010
> 
> Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk


Mine is a 2018 model. Its the least expensive fuse fattie.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

gmrviper said:


> Mine is a 2018 model. Its the least expensive fuse fattie.


Hmm. I'm not sure, but I would double check before making a fork purchase.

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

tfinator said:


> Hmm. I'm not sure, but I would double check before making a fork purchase.
> 
> Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk


Spec sheet says 1 1/8 straight.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## gmrviper (Oct 3, 2007)

Yeah Specialized are quick to reply to email questions. For a new suspension fork i dont really see any options, but rigid I do see a few. 

Hello, 
Thank you so much for reaching out. The fork on the 2018 Fuse Fattie is not a tapered. 

If you have any other questions, I am happy to help. 

Thanks,


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

gmrviper said:


> Yeah Specialized are quick to reply to email questions. For a new suspension fork i dont really see any options, but rigid I do see a few.
> 
> Hello,
> Thank you so much for reaching out. The fork on the 2018 Fuse Fattie is not a tapered.
> ...


The base model fuse has a 1 1/8" straight fork, but because it has a ZS44 sized headtube you could put a tapered fork in it - you'd just need a new headset (or at least a new lower headset cup). The 1 1/8" steerer in there now is on a reducer headset.


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

scrrll said:


> Time to upgrade the wheel set. Thought?
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I built a set of Nextie Jungle Fox 52's on SRAM900 this Spring. I've read no complaints about the hubs, I've had no problems at all with the setup after a great summer of XC races, one Enduro, and lots of trail miles. No issues with rim hits with a 3.0 Vee Bulldozer.


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

J_Ghost said:


> Waited a long time but finally got her! 2018 Comp, Large frame, matte black with red decals. I am a newbie but the tires feel pretty stable and want to just keep rolling. I use it on the street some too, hence the reflectors.
> 
> View attachment 1150373


Are the red specialized logos painted on or are they stickers? They kind of look like decals in this picture.


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## mileslong (Aug 20, 2016)

A search didn't find anything but I know someone has had this issue.....I just picked a 2016 Fuse 6fattie Expert ridiculously cheap because the rear hub - Stout XC Pro - was NFG. 

I bought the bike for my wife who has decided to give riding a try....if she doesn't like it i am going to sell it and but one that is my size!

The hub body, the rim and spokes are as good as new but the previous owner tried to "make some adjustments" and ruined the axle assembly. 

The thru axle is fine but the cone nuts, spacers and the threaded axle they all screw onto is ruined beyond repair. All I need is that new assembly but my local Spec dealer is struggling to come up with any assistance.....

The question is: has anyone found and where can I buy a 28 hole 148 x 12 hub that doesn't cost a small fortune?


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

28H might be an issue, but from what I’ve seen Shimano SLX hubs are the best cup and cone style, SRAM 900 for cartridge bearing. 
900’s are available in 28h


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## mileslong (Aug 20, 2016)

GuzziBen said:


> 28H might be an issue, but from what I've seen Shimano SLX hubs are the best cup and cone style, SRAM 900 for cartridge bearing.
> 900's are available in 28h


You are right on all counts...I prefer the SLX for the serviceability and the price point but there is no 28 hole...went with the SRAM 900, I expect it will be plenty good enough.

Any one know where to get some of the green/ yellow touch up paint?


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

Has anyone done any endurance racing events on the Fuse? I am in the market for a +bike and currently ride a Stumpjumper Comp29 hardtail. I am considering the Fuse and also looking at the 6Fattie Stumpjumper, but my gut feeling is pedaling a 150/135 travel bike for 50 miles may not be fun.


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

Haven’t done endurance races, but I’ve been on some long rides and short races. For races, if carbon is in your budget, it’s well worth considering. I like the suspension effect of the large volume tire without the weight of full suspension- I’d even consider a Lauf fork (I’ve got 2 on other bikes).


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

tjkm said:


> Has anyone done any endurance racing events on the Fuse? I am in the market for a +bike and currently ride a Stumpjumper Comp29 hardtail. I am considering the Fuse and also looking at the 6Fattie Stumpjumper, but my gut feeling is pedaling a 150/135 travel bike for 50 miles may not be fun.


If so I would recommend a lighter tire. Schwalbe Rocket Ron Snakeskin rolls so much better than the stock Spec tires. Quite a weight savings that saves a ton of energy over a long ride.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

Is anybody here selling a large alloy Fuse Comp or Expert, any year?


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Honda Guy said:


> Is anybody here selling a large alloy Fuse Comp or Expert, any year?


Where are you located?

Oops NM. I'm in Michigan. A bit far for a meet 'n ride.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

Hi everyone, long time stalker, first time poster here... greetings from northern Germany!

I picked up my Specialized Fuse Comp (2015/2016 model) earlier this year as a replacement for my Canyon Grand Canyon 6.9 AL SL 2016 which was stolen. The remaining stock was going for an absolute steal as I believe that Specialized in Germany have now discontinued distribution of the Fuse range.

























I want to get to know the bike first, so mods have been kept to a minimum at this stage&#8230; which means:
* re-packed bearings (after reading about under-greasing from the factory)
* Nukeproof Electron Evo pedals
* Purgatory front tyre (provided by the dealer as the bike was advertised with 2017 spec but was delivered with Ground Control at both ends)
* Neoprene chainstay protector (with cable ties holding it tight - this cheap mod has eliminated all annoying chain slap noise commonly complained about on the Fuse)

I'm reading about all your upgrades and mods with interest, and am curious to see where the journey takes me. For the moment, I find the bike a blast to ride, with plenty of grip and a bit of welcome damping provided by the plus tyres (which is helpful as I'm still recovering from destroying a vertebrae a few years back).

Happy riding everyone!


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## imtheant (Mar 25, 2013)

Anyone running the Fuse with a 29 x 3.0 tire? Or whats the widest it will fit?


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

imtheant said:


> Anyone running the Fuse with a 29 x 3.0 tire? Or whats the widest it will fit?


Mine is 27.5 x 3.0 out of the box, and I'm pretty sure that all Fuse models (in Europe at least) were this format. If width is your target, you're already at 3.0, but I'm quite sure that 29 x 3.0 will not fit in this frame.

Take a look at my first photo above and you'll see that the clearances on both the fork and rear frame are quite tight. The 1.5 inch / 38mm of additional wheel diameter really wouldn't have anywhere to go. HTH


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

Here's another pic of the 27.5 x 3.0 clearances, and how quickly they already get clogged with debris:


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

imtheant said:


> Anyone running the Fuse with a 29 x 3.0 tire? Or whats the widest it will fit?


Widest 29er tire it will take is a 2.6

Not much clearance with that combo.









You can find a more in depth write up here:

https://gypsybytrade.wordpress.com/2017/03/12/laels-baja-divide-fkt-bike-specialized-fuse-29/


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

Wow, maybe it's the grey wall behind creating an illusion, but it looks to my eyes like the rear tyre is practically pressed up against the seat tube! :yikes:


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## tortuga67 (Nov 9, 2017)

Looking at buying base model (with coil shock) Specialized Fuse. From reading this thread it seems that the base model frame is different from the others. Will that limit my ability to upgrade shock, headset and bb in the future?


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## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

Anyone riding the fuse with 29" wheels? What kind of clearance do you have -- can you fit 29x2.6 on an i30 rim? Is the BB height noticeably high (51mm drop -- good for 27+, a bit high for 29). How does the carbon compare to aluminium?

Thanks for your input. Torn between Advocate Hayduke (I'm a fan of steel), Niner SIR, Spec Fuse, SC Chameleon, maybe some others.


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## ski1970 (Aug 20, 2007)

BmoreKen said:


> Anyone riding the fuse with 29" wheels? What kind of clearance do you have -- can you fit 29x2.6 on an i30 rim? Is the BB height noticeably high (51mm drop -- good for 27+, a bit high for 29). How does the carbon compare to aluminium?
> 
> Thanks for your input. Torn between Advocate Hayduke (I'm a fan of steel), Niner SIR, Spec Fuse, SC Chameleon, maybe some others.


When I had mine I rode it with 29er wheels a lot. They were ardent 2.4 and had plenty of cleanse. I would imagine a 2.6 would fit fine. I couldn't tell the difference really but I am not all technical with the numbers.


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## tortuga67 (Nov 9, 2017)

Looking to buy a base model (with coil shock) specialized fuse. Will I be able upgrade fork to an air shock fork?


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## BCsaltchucker (Jan 16, 2014)

hey folks, been enjoying my Fuse Comp for over year now, though I keep it at my vacay home in AZ. However the brakes are bothering me. I am used to my XT brakes back home! The TRP Slate x2 feel extremely weak. However I am cheap and want to avoid the cost of buying XT brakes for it. I thought I could just try better pads first. So i understand these oem Slates accept shimano pads, correct? Anyone know which specific models of shimano pads it accepts? anyone swap in shimano resin pads to achieve mare grabbiness?


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## BCsaltchucker (Jan 16, 2014)

tortuga67 said:


> Looking to buy a base model (with coil shock) specialized fuse. Will I be able upgrade fork to an air shock fork?


Fuse is a hard tail . No shock!


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## Ramia (Apr 2, 2017)

BCsaltchucker said:


> hey folks, been enjoying my Fuse Comp for over year now, though I keep it at my vacay home in AZ. However the brakes are bothering me. I am used to my XT brakes back home! The TRP Slate x2 feel extremely weak. However I am cheap and want to avoid the cost of buying XT brakes for it. I thought I could just try better pads first. So i understand these oem Slates accept shimano pads, correct? Anyone know which specific models of shimano pads it accepts? anyone swap in shimano resin pads to achieve mare grabbiness?


TRP brakes weak?? Oh man you're so wrong, on front brakes I changed with original brake pads, rear brakes fits with some Shimano model

Enviado desde mi FRD-L04 mediante Tapatalk


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## BCsaltchucker (Jan 16, 2014)

This bike came with the TRP X2 brakes. They are indeed a junky weak brake. TRP does NOT sell these brakes separately, they sell a 4 piston brake which is very strong and good. but that 4 piston did not come on the Fuse Comp. I use XT m785 brakes on my better bike and the difference is massive!


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## Ramia (Apr 2, 2017)

BCsaltchucker said:


> This bike came with the TRP X2 brakes. They are indeed a junky weak brake. TRP does NOT sell these brakes separately, they sell a 4 piston brake which is very strong and good. but that 4 piston did not come on the Fuse Comp. I use XT m785 brakes on my better bike and the difference is massive!


On my Fuse comp Front brakes are TRP T4 with 4 pistons rear brakes are slate x2

Enviado desde mi FRD-L04 mediante Tapatalk


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Yep slates came on my 16 comp. decent brake, better than the SRAM bs db3 on my expert.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

FWIW, the TRP 4 piston brakes are ****. They pump up, and are weak. I've ridden nearly every gen of XT, Deore, BB7, Avid Trail, Guide, MT7, and XTR. The TRPs are the worst brake I've used, just unacceptable. 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## BCsaltchucker (Jan 16, 2014)

Ramia said:


> On my Fuse comp Front brakes are TRP T4 with 4 pistons rear brakes are slate x2
> 
> Enviado desde mi FRD-L04 mediante Tapatalk


interesting. i should check what they actually put on mine is a 2016 Fuse comp. I know the rear is X2, and assume the front is the same

I like resin pads best on my XT, so I will try some new resin pads on these Slate brakes see if that helps.

thanks for feedback


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## tortuga67 (Nov 9, 2017)

Sorry I meant coil fork. Is this fork upgradeable?


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

I demo'd a 2018 Fuse yesterday, forget the model but it had GX and a Reba and was an absolute blast to ride! Strongly considering getting the Carbon Comp model in red. It looks amazing.

I can't believe how much fun I had! The only thing I noticed was it just took more effort on the flats, but short, punchy climbs and loose over hardpack descents and turns were no match for those 3.0 tires. 

Sections I tend to ride carefully on my Stumpy 29" HT were an afterthought as I just plowed through on the Fuse. No matter how hard I railed a turn, I could not get the tires to break. THey set the psi at 15/17 and it felt great.


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## BCsaltchucker (Jan 16, 2014)

tortuga67 said:


> Sorry I meant coil fork. Is this fork upgradeable?


no. it is an obscure one.

upgrade is: shop around for the best deal on a Pike or Fox34  with Boost of course

however, the Fuse Comp has a Suntour air spring fork, not coil. and yet I bet several riders would gladly sell their boost air fork to you as they upgrade to a Pike or similar


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## tortuga67 (Nov 9, 2017)

So could I use the suntour upgrade program to upgrade to one of their airshock forks?


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## Ramia (Apr 2, 2017)

BCsaltchucker said:


> no. it is an obscure one.
> 
> upgrade is: shop around for the best deal on a Pike or Fox34  with Boost of course
> 
> however, the Fuse Comp has a Suntour air spring fork, not coil. and yet I bet several riders would gladly sell their boost air fork to you as they upgrade to a Pike or similar


my Fuse comp has Manitou Machete fork.. and it's pretty good

Enviado desde mi FRD-L04 mediante Tapatalk


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## GhostHustler (May 7, 2007)

Did Specialized ditch the aluminum expert version? I had it bookmarked on their site because I wanted to snag it next summer and now it is no longer even on their website?


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

From what I can see, the latest Comp is more or less the old Expert. 

The old Expert previously had the 1x11 drivetrain, Manitou Machete fork etc. whereas the old Comp was 1x10 and Suntour Raidon. 

The new Comp also has the 1x11 drivetrain, Manitou Machete fork. Below it, the Sport and no-name models both use a simpler frame, 1x10 and Suntour forks. 

HTH


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

ro7939 said:


> I make adjustments for a friend to his used 2016 Comp w/"SR Suntour Raidon" 120mm fork. Sum total adjustments comprise:
> Compression: normal/lockout
> Rebound: red knurled knob, bottom
> Air: 180 PSI maximum
> ...


I just picked up a barely used 2016 Fuse Comp and as I was going through this thread, I saw this post. I'm not sure if someone eventually answered it or not because I haven't gone far enough ahead in the thread yet, but I've got an answer.

The red knob on the bottom of the fork isn't hard connected to the fork, its more like and adapter that allows you to turn the adjustment know that is inside. The red knob is held on by an o-ring. I was adjusting the rebound and felt it getting tighter and then got to a point where it did nothing... It turned out that I had turned the adjustment screw so much that the red adapter knob could not longer grab it. If you pull the red knob off, you'll see that the inside is keyed like a female hex bolt and the actual adjustment knob inside the bottom of the fork is a small male hex. I grabbed it with some small pliers and loosened it until it had spun all the way loose and stopped and then put the red knob back on, then tightened it back up.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Hey all... new to the thread and relatively new to MTB. I picked up a Fatboy last year as my first foray into the off-road world after riding road for 3 years, exclusively. I learned a huge amount last year, riding that Fatboy in a ll conditions and this year, I realized that I wanted something not quite as heavy and a little bit more aggressive. When I bought my Fatboy, I had also been eyeing up the 2016 Fuse Comp in Candy Apple Red and I was so stoked to find that a good friend was selling his, barely used, for a great deal. I jumped on it.





































Seriously loving this bike so far. It climbs great, seems to have just as much traction as the Fatboy and is lighter and more agile. It is not without faults though. I had the 2016 Fatboy comp, so the components on that bike were better and i can feel that on the Fuse. The drivetrain isn't horrible, but its not great. I really don't like the brakes at all on the Fuse. The TRP Slates T4 and X2's don't seem to have much power and they're just not confidence inspiring. So far, the fork seems adequate to me... but coming from a completely rigid bike I don't really have anything to compare to.

So far I've upgraded the bars with RaceFace next carbon bars, Ergon grip and a RaceFace Atlas stem. I'm planning on upgrading the whole drivetrain and brake system to XT M8000 and the fork to either a Fox Factory or RockShox Pike.


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

:thumbsup:

Welcome CrankAddictRich!


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

ken-de said:


> From what I can see, the latest Comp is more or less the old Expert.
> 
> The old Expert previously had the 1x11 drivetrain, Manitou Machete fork etc. whereas the old Comp was 1x10 and Suntour Raidon.
> 
> ...


The 2018 Comp is very similar, but not quite the same as the 2017 Alloy Expert. It is 11 speed NX instead of GX (heavier cassette, standard freehub, not an xd driver), TRP Orion brakes instead of Avid DB3s, 32mm Manitou Machete as opposed to 32mm Reba (kind of a toss up, weight edge to the Reba).

Also the 2018 uses Grid tires instead of Controls (slightly heavier casing on the 2018, much more cut resistance).


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## Lemonader83 (Nov 5, 2017)

Can anyone help me ID the adapter kit to move the rear brakes out to accommodate a 180mm rotor? My LBS didn't sound like they had a clue and wanted a fortune to do it....so I bought a kit online and am pretty certain it's the wrong one. It came with 10, 12.5, 15 and 17.5mm spacers, which seems wrong but idk...I'm a noob. Thanks in advance


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## Dorf411 (Jan 21, 2016)

Lemonader83 said:


> Can anyone help me ID the adapter kit to move the rear brakes out to accommodate a 180mm rotor? My LBS didn't sound like they had a clue and wanted a fortune to do it....so I bought a kit online and am pretty certain it's the wrong one. It came with 10, 12.5, 15 and 17.5mm spacers, which seems wrong but idk...I'm a noob. Thanks in advance


I would try the 10mm one, going from 160 to 180 may be 20mm increase but only 10mm with reference to the center. I would install the larger rotor and then install the 10mm spacer and carefully install the wheel to make sure it fits. Take a picture or look closely before you do it to see where the caliper lands on the rotor before you remove anything.


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## Lemonader83 (Nov 5, 2017)

Thanks! I came to that conclusion about five minutes ago and slapped myself hard on the forehead. 12.5mm on both and all done.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Just got some 29x2.6 Nobby Nics. Debating whether I should try these on the Fuse. Has anyone mounted a 29+ish? 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

Flash said:


> Just got some 29x2.6 Nobby Nics. Debating whether I should try these on the Fuse. Has anyone mounted a 29+ish?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


Just posted this a while back. 2.6 Nobby Nics should fit fine from what I have read.



Honda Guy said:


> Widest 29er tire it will take is a 2.6
> 
> Not much clearance with that combo.
> 
> ...


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Has anyone installed an XT crank? I'm pretty sure I need a bottom bracket adapter, but I'm not sure on which XT crank. It looks like Shimano makes a 148 Boost specific XT crank. I'm probably gonna run a Praxis BB adapter as I've been running them on my road bikes for the last 3-4 years with much success.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

My LBS has a 2016 Fuse Pro for $2,100, down from $3k to clear it out. I demo'd the 2018 Fuse Comp last week and liked it on a 10 mile demo ride. I rode the Pro in the parking lot, it feels pretty much like the 2018. 

I took home a 6Fattie Stumpy to demo, did a 20 mile, 2,100ft of climbing ride on steep, loose and rocky trails. Needless to say, I set starva PR's on most DH segments with out even trying......but, could not believe how tired I was after pedaling that 32lbs beast around. Maybe it is an adaptation thing, and that would become normal.

So, its a toss up between a 6Fatte 2018 Stumpjumper for $2800 or the 2016 Fuse Pro for $2100. 

Thoughts?


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## scrrll (Mar 31, 2017)

tjkm said:


> My LBS has a 2016 Fuse Pro for $2,100, down from $3k to clear it out. I demo'd the 2018 Fuse Comp last week and liked it on a 10 mile demo ride. I rode the Pro in the parking lot, it feels pretty much like the 2018.
> 
> I took home a 6Fattie Stumpy to demo, did a 20 mile, 2,100ft of climbing ride on steep, loose and rocky trails. Needless to say, I set starva PR's on most DH segments with out even trying......but, could not believe how tired I was after pedaling that 32lbs beast around. Maybe it is an adaptation thing, and that would become normal.
> 
> ...


I switch from a full suspension mtn bike to a 2016 fuse expert. My ride time improved. Fuse handles much better in the Rocky cross country terrain. Going from 2.3" tires suspended to 3" hardtail was the right choice for me. Yes my fuse with carbon rims is a little harsher than 140mm of full suspension but the handling is much crisper. I've even down hilled a couple of times on the fuse with no major issues. Now downhilling at 49, I'm not letting it all hang out. For me it is a great all around ride.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

tjkm said:


> My LBS has a 2016 Fuse Pro for $2,100, down from $3k to clear it out. I demo'd the 2018 Fuse Comp last week and liked it on a 10 mile demo ride. I rode the Pro in the parking lot, it feels pretty much like the 2018.
> 
> I took home a 6Fattie Stumpy to demo, did a 20 mile, 2,100ft of climbing ride on steep, loose and rocky trails. Needless to say, I set starva PR's on most DH segments with out even trying......but, could not believe how tired I was after pedaling that 32lbs beast around. Maybe it is an adaptation thing, and that would become normal.
> 
> ...


Looking at the specs, the 2016 Pro may have felt like the 2018 Comp in the parking lot, but I suspect that the Pro would show its merits better on the trail... better fork, components, etc... I think the wheels are better too. Looking at the Fuse Pro vs. the Stumpy.. I'd say it probably comes down to what you enjoy more. I think the Fuse would probably be better on climbs and maybe not far off on downhills, but the Stumpy should definitely excel on chunkier stuff. I'm relatively new to MTB and just got my Fuse. A good buddy of mine who rides MTB a lot, has a stumpy. I can hang with him on climbs and even put some space when the climbing gets really stuff and we have to put down power. He blows me away on downhill sections... primarily due to his expertise, although I will say that on the Fuse, I'm able to stay closer to him that I previously was able to.


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

I’ve got the ‘16 Fuse Expert- it came with the Manitou Magnum Comp 34mm 120 fork (it’s a decent fork) and odd brakes- DB3 levers and a 4-piston Guide caliper up front and a 2-piston rear. Strange but effective. The TranzX dropper clapped out in months. For most trail and XC riding, it’s a great tool. Nextie wheels and other carbon bits have the weight down to 27lbs. For more technical/gravity trails, I’m starting to want full squish. The good news is, I can have both. And a fat bike. And a gravel bike. And that 98 Haro MX3 because it’s cool ...


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

Thanks for the input guys. I got one more 90 minute ride in on the Demo 6Fattie Stumpjumper Comp, and it felt better today vs. yesterdays ride. I am leaning toward the Stumpjumper as I plan on keeping my Hardtail 29er, and think it would be better to add some variety to my quiver with a FS. I hope to have this nailed down by next week. Keep ya posted!


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Got some goodies for the Fuse...

Full XT 1x11 drivetrain, including crank with Praxis bb conversion and XT brakes. I also have a Rockshox Pike RCT3 coming... I'm enjoying with the comp as is, am I gonna be blown away by the new stuff?


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

CrankAddictRich said:


> Got some goodies for the Fuse...
> 
> Full XT 1x11 drivetrain, including crank with Praxis bb conversion and XT brakes. I also have a Rockshox Pike RCT3 coming... I'm enjoying with the comp as is, am I gonna be blown away by the new stuff?


I just put on a Pike 140mm, it is awesome. I will most likely add a bottomless token or 2 to make the stroke more linear. The pike blows me away with how well it can handle multiple fast hits. The fork just "charges" through it, must be that fancy charger damper at work. I just took the fuse through Sedona, Moab, Trestle, and Whistler. The fuse rocked it, and I had a blast! I got lots of comments like, "rocking the hard tail eh?" This is no ordinary hardtail, it's a Fuse!


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

[email protected] said:


> I just put on a Pike 140mm, it is awesome. I will most likely add a bottomless token or 2 to make the stroke more linear.


I think you mean, more progressive.



[email protected] said:


> The pike blows me away with how well it can handle multiple fast hits. The fork just "charges" through it, must be that fancy charger damper at work. I just took the fuse through Sedona, Moab, Trestle, and Whistler. The fuse rocked it, and I had a blast! I got lots of comments like, "rocking the hard tail eh?" This is no ordinary hardtail, it's a Fuse!


Nice to hear though... I'm a roadie, with all of my prior MTB experience on a Fatbike. So far, I'm loving this bike. I was worried that dropping down to the 3" would result in a loss of traction, but I haven't experienced that at all and the bike is definitely more fun, agile and aggressive than the Fatboy. I can't wait to get the pike on and see how it feels. I was thinking about grabbing a token or two just to have, to play around with.


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

tjkm said:


> My LBS has a 2016 Fuse Pro for $2,100, down from $3k to clear it out. I demo'd the 2018 Fuse Comp last week and liked it on a 10 mile demo ride. I rode the Pro in the parking lot, it feels pretty much like the 2018.
> 
> I took home a 6Fattie Stumpy to demo, did a 20 mile, 2,100ft of climbing ride on steep, loose and rocky trails. Needless to say, I set starva PR's on most DH segments with out even trying......but, could not believe how tired I was after pedaling that 32lbs beast around. Maybe it is an adaptation thing, and that would become normal.
> 
> ...


Like you said... If you want climbing PRs, get the fuse. If you like chunky and DH PRs, get the SJ. I rarely ride my Fuse anymore because the SJ is just more fun and versatile I think.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Swap to lighter 2.8 tires and it helps with climbing and performance! Less tire roll and bounce.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Has anyone found a bash guard that works with the Fuse?


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

CrankAddictRich said:


> I think you mean, more progressive.


I meant what I said. Never in my years of mathematics did we use progressive to describe a curve when relating forces. A coil spring will yield a linear curve in relation to travel vs. force, while a high volume air spring will require an exponential increase in force to move through the same travel. What I meant was that adding tokens and reducing the air volume will produce a more linear curve.


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

Decreasing air volume would increase “ramp up”- a higher curve, less linear, more progressive. 
Think compression ratio and combustion chamber volume.


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## GhostHustler (May 7, 2007)

Bought the wife a 2016 Expert that was as demo for 1200. There seems to be a lot of play in the rear hub I guess you would call it? Like every time she goes to start pedaling again it takes too much time to grab and start spinning the tire and every time it makes a clunk noise when it catches if that makes sense. Is this normal for these hubs or is there something I can do to help remedy this without buying a new hub? I am pretty new to all of this but want to learn how to fix stuff myself.


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## MrTorque (Dec 2, 2017)

Thought I'd give my experience with the 2017 XXL Fuse Expert.

I'm 6'5" with 38" inseam, 39" sleeve length, and 250 lbs.

I'll start by saying I bought my bike in early April of 2017 as an upgrade to my current bike at the time (2008 Felt Niner Comp). After waiting a month for the bike, I was stoked to get out and ride... and man... is the XXL a huge bike. Even compared to my "big" 29'er with 120mm stem and offset seat post. The Fuse corners really well and loads of traction when the tire pressures right are dialed in. I ride in the Phoenix area so a lot fast flat turns in sand and gravel with some technical uphill and downhill. Only on the chunkiest of trails did I start questioning my choice of a Hard Tail. It does feel like it wants to stand up in the fast flat corners, but not nearly as much as the Felt. My buddy rides a Pivot and my wife rides a Yeti. I am able to keep pace with both of them, even if some downhills feel like I am riding a jackhammer! I love blasting pass my buddy through sandy washes and up loose gravelly technical climbs with my fat tires.

Heavy riders should add a bottomless token to the fork so you can ride lower pressure for small bump compliance and less bottom outs.

Now, the 'not so good'...

-Stiction in fork
-Rear brake failure
-Creak in bottom bracket
-Dropper post has significant play (rotationally left to right and bounces up and down).

After about 2 months of riding the front fork developed a serious case of stiction. LBS did a rebuild of the fork free of charge. But, as of two weeks ago, the stiction is back.

Last month my rear brake started to get "squishy". Bleeding the brakes every 1.5-2 weeks would return lever firmness. But two weeks ago I completely lost my rear brake during a ride. Changed the fluid and bled the brakes, but absolutely no resistance in the lever. 

Unfortunately, my LBS is 3 weeks out for scheduling maintenance. Hoping they will get to looking at the issues this week. 

I sent a note to specialized who got back to me a few days..The rep was kind enough to suggest I reach out to SRAM and even provided SRAM's 800#! Hoping my LBS stands behind the bike, but regardless I am seriously thinking of switching to another company and upgrading to a FS bike in the process. Really frustrated with not being able to ride. The Fuse and Stumpy get great reviews and are a great value... at least on paper. I may just have a "Lemon", but regardless its going to take a lot for me not to switch to another manufacturer. Jumper. 

I wonder if the XXL frame and associated bigger rider is too much for the spec'ed components?


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

GhostHustler said:


> Bought the wife a 2016 Expert that was as demo for 1200. There seems to be a lot of play in the rear hub I guess you would call it? Like every time she goes to start pedaling again it takes too much time to grab and start spinning the tire and every time it makes a clunk noise when it catches if that makes sense. Is this normal for these hubs or is there something I can do to help remedy this without buying a new hub? I am pretty new to all of this but want to learn how to fix stuff myself.


Demo bike should still be covered by warranty. Press your dealer to get it fixed.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

Per the brakes on your Fuse, some people prefer the Shimano for ease and reliability- lots of used Guides on Pink and EBay. Swapping to XT or SLX is a breeze. 
My Tranz-x Post clapped out on me after a few months, and it’s not serviceable. Installed X-fusion. 
Bottom bracket is a “wear item”- I changed to a Wheels Mfg item, high quality stuff. Yeah, “wore out” the bearings before a set of tires. 
The Manitou fork likes it’s seals greased. If you can pull the lowers, grease the seals and stuff it back together. Maybe even a surface spray/wipe.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Has anyone had any luck finding a strong, reliable, not too expensive wheel set? I'm on a 2016 Fuse Comp with the WTB Scraper wheels. I like how the tires fit the 45mm wide wheels, as opposed to the fitment that I've seen on the newer Fuse models with the 38mm wide wheels. I've had my Fuse for about a month now and put about 150 miles on it. It is great fun. I'm not in love with the lack of engagement in the rear hub. I'd like something that bites quicker. This past weekend, I had a spoke come loose on the rear wheel as well... it didn't come out, but it got loose and started creaking. I'm not super concerned with weight, in fact I'd prefer something strong and durable the I don't have to think, as opposed to a wheel set that is light. Should I be looking for wheels/hubs with more spokes?

Thanks in advance.


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

I haven't shopped wheel sets because I like building them. The stock Scrapers limit your hub choices with low spoke count. 32's seem pretty standard otherwise. 
I think you can get Sram 900 and Hope in 28h for the rear for a re-build. Otherwise, yeah, I'd shop for 32/32 and cartridge bearings. Saving weight on spokes in a mountain bike sounds silly. (Double-butted for strength, not weight)


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

GuzziBen said:


> I haven't shopped wheel sets because I like building them. The stock Scrapers limit your hub choices with low spoke count. 32's seem pretty standard otherwise.
> I think you can get Sram 900 and Hope in 28h for the rear for a re-build. Otherwise, yeah, I'd shop for 32/32 and cartridge bearings. Saving weight on spokes in a mountain bike sounds silly. (Double-butted for strength, not weight)


I probably should have added that I'm a roadie... so I'm lost when it comes to the tech available in the MTB world. I understand the basics, but I'm not educated in the details.

I'm not in search of pre-made wheel sets, per se, but I wouldn't be opposed to one if it met the needs. I found a website, fanatic bike, that lets you build out custom sets. I was loooking at a set of DTSwiss XM551 rims with I9 Torch hubs, 32h, comes out to $991.


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## scrrll (Mar 31, 2017)

CrankAddictRich said:


> Has anyone had any luck finding a strong, reliable, not too expensive wheel set? I'm on a 2016 Fuse Comp with the WTB Scraper wheels. I like how the tires fit the 45mm wide wheels, as opposed to the fitment that I've seen on the newer Fuse models with the 38mm wide wheels. I've had my Fuse for about a month now and put about 150 miles on it. It is great fun. I'm not in love with the lack of engagement in the rear hub. I'd like something that bites quicker. This past weekend, I had a spoke come loose on the rear wheel as well... it didn't come out, but it got loose and started creaking. I'm not super concerned with weight, in fact I'd prefer something strong and durable the I don't have to think, as opposed to a wheel set that is light. Should I be looking for wheels/hubs with more spokes?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Was also not in love with the engagement. Bought a set of Nobl Wheels tr45 and hubs. Instant engagement and I like the stiffness of carbon wheels with the plus tires.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## GhostHustler (May 7, 2007)

I am just trying to find a decent hub for the wife's ride without spending a ton of money. Would this hub fit? It says the one that came on the bike is 148mm. What would I need to make it work? Thanks for your input.

Hope Pro 4 142mm Rear Hub | Jenson USA


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

GhostHustler said:


> I am just trying to find a decent hub for the wife's ride without spending a ton of money. Would this hub fit? It says the one that came on the bike is 148mm. What would I need to make it work? Thanks for your input.
> 
> Hope Pro 4 142mm Rear Hub | Jenson USA


This one:
http://www.jensonusa.com/Hope-Pro-4-148mm-Boost-Rear-Hub/

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## GhostHustler (May 7, 2007)

reamer41 said:


> This one:
> Hope Pro 4 148mm Boost Rear Hub | Jenson USA
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I noticed the boost after I posted. Under the description it says it comes in 28h but I can't seem to find that anywhere.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

So pumped! picked up my bike today from my LBS... XT goodies and RS Pike.


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

Okay, you know you need 28h Boost (148mm) for direct replacement. 
I built a new wheel set this spring with Sram 900 hubs and Nexties 32H- but the hubs are available on EBay in 28H. I really like the engagement and have had no issues, found no complaints here. Next question is which driver do you need or want- Shimano (Sram 10-speed) or XD (Sram 11-12 speed). 
If you could find another 28H Scraper rim, you could build a matching front wheel. (That 24H is something of an orphan).


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

GuzziBen said:


> Okay, you know you need 28h Boost (148mm) for direct replacement.
> I built a new wheel set this spring with Sram 900 hubs and Nexties 32H- but the hubs are available on EBay in 28H. I really like the engagement and have had no issues, found no complaints here. Next question is which driver do you need or want- Shimano (Sram 10-speed) or XD (Sram 11-12 speed).
> If you could find another 28H Scraper rim, you could build a matching front wheel. (That 24H is something of an orphan).


I think you're talking to me...

After doing some research, if and when I do wheels, I'll probably just have my local shop build me a custom set. I was talking to the wheel builder an he suggested a 32h set of Scraper rims laced to I9 torch hubs. I'm running Shimano 11 speed.


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## GhostHustler (May 7, 2007)

I am not worried about the front hub. I just wanna replace the backhub and be done with it until something fails. She only has the 10 speed on her Fuse.


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## DonH (Oct 1, 2004)

@CrankAddictRich - Great looking bike! I love the colors.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

First little snowfall today here in NJ and since I just got the bike back from my LBS, it is more than likely that this is the cleanest it will ever be. I decided to bust out the good camera and snap some pics in the local patch of woods.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Does anyone have a weight on the Scraper wheels that came on the 2016 Fuse Comp?


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## fitz-roy (Mar 3, 2016)

GhostHustler said:


> I am not worried about the front hub. I just wanna replace the backhub and be done with it until something fails. She only has the 10 speed on her Fuse.


It was mentioned somewhere by another user but the boost Sram 900 rear hub is direct swap in for the crap rear Stout hub.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CH32UE6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

I ordered a red/black 2018 Fuse Comp Carbon yesterday and will have it by the end of the week. Excited to get it out on the trail! I deliberated on what bike to order, and found myself looking at a 29 FS bike, but I had such a fun time on my Fuse demo ride, I decided to go with it.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

Okay people - I have about 50 miles on my new Fuse and am really enjoying it so far. The one surprise I have so far, is how bad the chain slap is. I am surprised there is no type of protection on the chain stay, like I have had on other Specialized bikes.

I imagine others have experienced this, what have you done to address it?


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## MozFat (Dec 16, 2016)

tjkm said:


> Okay people - I have about 50 miles on my new Fuse and am really enjoying it so far. The one surprise I have so far, is how bad the chain slap is. I am surprised there is no type of protection on the chain stay, like I have had on other Specialized bikes.
> 
> I imagine others have experienced this, what have you done to address it?


No clutch on your derailleur? Turn it on


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## Nissan80 (May 20, 2016)

Got a large chainstay guard. The wetsuit material type. Even with a clutch derailleur the chainslap was unbearable!


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Check chain length? I get no slap on mine. SLX with clutch on or off. 30 tooth front, 10-42 rear. I have only the dock chainstay guard. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

tjkm said:


> Okay people - I have about 50 miles on my new Fuse and am really enjoying it so far. The one surprise I have so far, is how bad the chain slap is. I am surprised there is no type of protection on the chain stay, like I have had on other Specialized bikes.
> 
> I imagine others have experienced this, what have you done to address it?


Which model do you have? I noticed a fair bit of chain slap on my 2016 Fuse Comp with the standard Sram X7 RD even thought that is a clutch RD. Now that I've switched the whole drivetrain to Shimano XT I don't notice it at all... I'm assuming its just because the X7 RD was a lower model and the clutch wasn't as good/strong as the XT unit's.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

The model is a 2018 Carbon Comp with a GX derailleur, 10-42 with a 28t on the front (stock set up). I am putting a Lizard Skin chain stay protector on and will see how that goes. I may also bump up the 28t to a 30t. 

My Stumpy HT has a SLX 11-42 and I run a 32t with almost no noticeable slap. Like I mentioned in an earlier post, that bike came with a bolted on, hard rubber chain stay protector.

I'll see how the Lizard Skin works, and go from there.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

tjkm said:


> The model is a 2018 Carbon Comp with a GX derailleur, 10-42 with a 28t on the front (stock set up). I am putting a Lizard Skin chain stay protector on and will see how that goes. I may also bump up the 28t to a 30t.
> 
> My Stumpy HT has a SLX 11-42 and I run a 32t with almost no noticeable slap. Like I mentioned in an earlier post, that bike came with a bolted on, hard rubber chain stay protector.
> 
> I'll see how the Lizard Skin works, and go from there.


FYI - the Lizard Skin is working well.


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

Nissan80 said:


> Got a large chainstay guard. The wetsuit material type. Even with a clutch derailleur the chainslap was unbearable!


Same here, made a massive difference on my Fuse Comp (SRAM X7 10-spd, other pics posted a page or two back):


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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

*Drive train help*

Im looking to upgrade my drive train this winter and im new to all this technical talk when it comes to bikes. Could someone take a look at what I think will work and let me know if I have anything wrong or if there is something I could do better.

Shimano XT SL-M8000 I-Spec II Shifter | Jenson USA (Rear)

Shimano XT RD-M8000 11SP Rear Derailleur | Jenson USA

Shimano XT FC-M8000-B1 Boost Cranks | Jenson USA (Boost or Non Boost?)

Sunrace CSMX8 11 Speed Cassette | Jenson USA (11-46)

SRAM PC-X1 11 Speed Chain | Jenson USA

https://absoluteblack.cc/oval-xt-m8000-96bcd-chainring.html (30T)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZL4NXO/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I5XCY39TI8BEX&colid=5YSIKLZ4RH3U&psc=1 (Is this the right bb?)

Also going to switch the rear hub to either a sram900 or a hope pro 4 (28h 12x148). Do you prefer one over the other?

Thanks in advance.


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## fabrice (Mar 27, 2006)

mic360 said:


> Im looking to upgrade my drive train this winter and im new to all this technical talk when it comes to bikes. Could someone take a look at what I think will work and let me know if I have anything wrong or if there is something I could do better.
> 
> Shimano XT SL-M8000 I-Spec II Shifter | Jenson USA (Rear)
> 
> ...


Hello,
no need to change your crank, unless you want to.
I've upgraded the transmission to 1x11 on my '16 Comp (stock : 1x10 with 11-40 cassette).
I changed the derailleur and shifter (Sram X1), cassette (Sunrace 11-46) and chain, that's all.

The stock rear hub has indeed not a reputation of good quality. But so far, mine is still going...
I I had to choose between the 2 models you mention as a replacement, I'd choose the Hope Pro 4 every time. The SRAM 900 is maybe also good gear, but Hope is another kind of "cranftmanship". 
BUT, dependind on the stock hub dimensions, you may make your choice of a replacement hub that would allow to keep the spokes for the wheel rebuild.


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## nmeofun (Jul 20, 2012)

fabrice said:


> The stock rear hub has indeed not a reputation of good quality. But so far, mine is still going...
> I I had to choose between the 2 models you mention as a replacement, I'd choose the Hope Pro 4 every time. The SRAM 900 is maybe also good gear, but Hope is another kind of "cranftmanship".
> BUT, dependind on the stock hub dimensions, you may make your choice of a replacement hub that would allow to keep the spokes for the wheel rebuild.


I replaced mine with a SRAM 900. Great quality, but I bought it because I thought I'd re-use my spokes. None of my local bike shops recommended using the old spokes, so I ended up with new spokes anyway. No regrets though, it's been a great hub.


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## adaycj (Sep 30, 2009)

nmeofun said:


> I replaced mine with a SRAM 900. Great quality, but I bought it because I thought I'd re-use my spokes. None of my local bike shops recommended using the old spokes, so I ended up with new spokes anyway. No regrets though, it's been a great hub.


You pay your money and you take your chances I guess. I reused the spokes to re assemble the wheel with the SRAM 900, then again to lace a Race Face rim. Every bike in my family's fleet has reused spokes except one. Spokes aren't free and they aren't that expensive either. I suppose if I was paying someone labor to build all these wheels I'd buy new ones too.

If it helps any the Race Face arc rim can be bought in 28h, but I couldn't find a 28h WTB Scraper aftermarket. They both seem to work the same.


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## fabrice (Mar 27, 2006)

nmeofun said:


> I replaced mine with a SRAM 900. Great quality, but I bought it because I thought I'd re-use my spokes. None of my local bike shops recommended using the old spokes, so I ended up with new spokes anyway. No regrets though, it's been a great hub.


I build my wheels myself (and for friends too).
Personnally, I've re-used "old" spokes on several wheel builds, mostly for my own use. That's not a problem provided that you re-use them at the same "place" (inner or outer) since they are deformed (even better if that's with the same hub, although not mandatory) ; and that you clean the threads. Nipples can also be re-used sometimes, even alloy ones.
BUT I understand that a professionnal doesn't want to mess with that. Building a wheel with new spokes and nipples is more straighforward.


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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

Any idea on which Cane Creek Headset will fit a 2016 comp?


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

mic360 said:


> Any idea on which Cane Creek Headset will fit a 2016 comp?


A quick scan indicates that a couple of members have installed a 40 (pages 6 and 13 of this thread). The discussions would also indicate that Cane Creek are happy to answer questions by email, which might be wise to be sure (to be sure!). HTH


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

I have had my Fuse for just about a month, and every once in a while I wonder if I picked the right bike. To be specific, sometimes I just feel like I am going in slow motion on the flats and some climbs. Descending feels pretty solid. I have almost scared myself with how much more speed I carry through techy sections I have been riding for years.

Saying all that.....when I upload my strava at the end of the ride, I am usually blown away by the PR's I've reset, both climbing and descending!

Today, I reset some PR's I have had since 2012, and I was not really going for it. Just taking what the trail and bike were giving me.

This bike continues to surprise me, and I like it more with each ride. Has anyone gone through this?


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Wtb scrapers and wire bead supermoto X shwalbe tires are a beast to dismount. I won’t be using those tires again...


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

On the Specialized web site it says you can run 29er tires on the Fuse. Anyone tried this, my hope is 29x2.6 to 2.8


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## scrrll (Mar 31, 2017)

rushman3 said:


> On the Specialized web site it says you can run 29er tires on the Fuse. Anyone tried this, my hope is 29x2.6 to 2.8


See post 1292. Looks like 2.6 may be the biggest you can go.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## ricky1981 (Jan 23, 2018)

After a bit of advice if possible - I have the budget to stretch to the Fuse Expert Carbon. Is that a good choice or would I be better to go for the Comp which is about half the price and spend some/all of the difference on upgrades?

Will be used on reasonably light trails and some light downhill. I'm 37 and this'll be my first semi-serious bike aside from a second-hand fatboy that I've been using for the last year or so.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

I would go with the Expert Carbon. I was in a similar situation as you, and went with the Comp Carbon vs upgrading. I am really enjoying my decision!


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## ricky1981 (Jan 23, 2018)

tjkm said:


> I would go with the Expert Carbon. I was in a similar situation as you, and went with the Comp Carbon vs upgrading. I am really enjoying my decision!


Thanks, close to pulling the trigger, LBS have offered about 15% discount and will set it up tubeless free of charge so seems like a pretty good deal


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

ricky1981 said:


> I have the budget to stretch to the Fuse Expert Carbon. Is that a good choice or would I be better to go for the Comp which is about half the price and spend some/all of the difference on upgrades?


Nice problem to have! I'm a few years older, and now ride somewhat on the conservative side (after breaking my spine in an accident a few years back)... for me, the Comp is plenty quick and everything works well with the exception of the Raidon fork which tends to knock annoyingly on lifts. Being relatively light myself (~70kgs), I don't think I'd get a huge amount of benefit from the lighter frame, better brakes, additional gears.

I'd say that it probably comes down to how good the deals are - I got my Comp for 1000€ off retail - and how much "want" overrides "need". Also, if you're an upgrading type, or would rather "set and forget".

Let us know what you decide... photos or it didn't happen


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## ricky1981 (Jan 23, 2018)

ken-de said:


> Nice problem to have! I'm a few years older, and now ride somewhat on the conservative side (after breaking my spine in an accident a few years back)... for me, the Comp is plenty quick and everything works well with the exception of the Raidon fork which tends to knock annoyingly on lifts. Being relatively light myself (~70kgs), I don't think I'd get a huge amount of benefit from the lighter frame, better brakes, additional gears.
> 
> I'd say that it probably comes down to how good the deals are - I got my Comp for 1000€ off retail - and how much "want" overrides "need". Also, if you're an upgrading type, or would rather "set and forget".
> 
> Let us know what you decide... photos or it didn't happen


I've been offered 15% off the expert plus the tubeless upgrade which is a minor thing but it all helps. The comp I'd be paying RRP, if I could get the price you got then I'd be all over the comp!!

Being honest, I don't need even the Fuse, I could buy a Rockhopper and it'd be heaps of bike but I have enjoyed the Fat Boy and figure a 6Fattie means I can sell that rather than having two bikes.

Will get some pics up once I've decided, hoping to order this week and have a new bike by mid-next


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

Just spotted that you're a Kiwi, I'm an Aussie now living in Germany. 

I got lucky with the deal on mine, I bought it early 2017, but it's a 2016 model that I eventually learned was built in 2015. The spec changed a bit, but fortunately the supplier gave me the later model Purgatory tyre for the front as a bit of a sweetener. 

Perhaps there's a LBS with old stock that you can haggle with (although I guess the NZ market is fairly small)?

Whichever way you go, I'm sure you'll have a blast. As you've ridden both Fat and traditional MTBs, the 6fattie should be a good compromise. What kind of terrain do you ride? Middle earth?


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

tjkm said:


> I have had my Fuse for just about a month, and every once in a while I wonder if I picked the right bike.
> 
> .....
> 
> This bike continues to surprise me, and I like it more with each ride. Has anyone gone through this?


Yep, from the perspective that the format seems to be illusively quick on the loose stuff. I'm no Strava junkie (yet - just ordered my first GPS) but I'm clearly carrying more speed.

My only real less than perfect moments are on long forest trail sections, where the 1x10 tends to run out of gears. I'll be interested to see how quick I'm really going once the GPS is on.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

ricky1981 said:


> Thanks, close to pulling the trigger, LBS have offered about 15% discount and will set it up tubeless free of charge so seems like a pretty good deal


I think you know what has to happen.................

That is a sweet deal.


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## fmf979 (Feb 14, 2016)

I Road in some thick mud today at Raystown and my bottom chain was so close to the rear tire it was scraping mud off and plugging up The Idler Wheels on the derailleur causing the chain to come off. has anyone else experienced this in thick mud. I have not had to adjust the derailleur so I do not think it is bent but this caused me to notice it is very close to the rear tire when I run it on the top rear chain ring? Anyone else run into this?


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## ricky1981 (Jan 23, 2018)

tjkm said:


> I think you know what has to happen.................
> 
> That is a sweet deal.


Just when I thought I'd made up my mind I've been offered a very good deal on a stumpjumper expert carbon. 33% off (it's the 2017 model but that's still a heck of a saving). Will make a decision mid next week, my head says SJ due to the price but my heart still thinks I'll enjoy the Fuse more....


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

fmf979 said:


> I Road in some thick mud today at Raystown and my bottom chain was so close to the rear tire it was scraping mud off and plugging up The Idler Wheels on the derailleur causing the chain to come off. has anyone else experienced this in thick mud.


Yep, I've had the same, with the chain slicing through mud and other debris whilst in the lower gears. Fortunately, it hasn't thrown the chain off, but at least my chainstay is well protected should that occur. I'm not sure that there's a solution, and imagine that it could be worse with x11 and x12 cassettes...?


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## fmf979 (Feb 14, 2016)

ken-de said:


> Yep, I've had the same, with the chain slicing through mud and other debris whilst in the lower gears. Fortunately, it hasn't thrown the chain off, but at least my chainstay is well protected should that occur. I'm not sure that there's a solution, and imagine that it could be worse with x11 and x12 cassettes...?


Thanks for verifying I didnt bend anything. Looks like the only thing to try will be run a 2.8 rear when its really muddy.


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## Slyham (Jun 24, 2015)

Does Specialized sell the Fuze frame only? I've got a 2018 SJ Comp and will start upgrading most everything on the bike overtime. Looking for a frame to put the old stuff on and have a bikepacking/friend borrowing bike. Looks like everything between the two frames are compatible and I can get an XXL.


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## ricky1981 (Jan 23, 2018)

It's a done deal, Fuse Expert Carbon ordered, got another $200 discount so that sealed it, will pick it up tomorrow


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## Jotocro (Jan 16, 2015)

Just got my hands on a 2016 fuse comp in red, all seems in good order at the moment but might switch to 1x11 as I am not keen on Sram. Thinking XT shifter, SLX RD and cassette.


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

Jotocro said:


> Just got my hands on a 2016 fuse comp in red, all seems in good order at the moment but might switch to 1x11 as I am not keen on Sram. Thinking XT shifter, SLX RD and cassette.


Personally I'd invest in a better fork first. I feel like the Suntour on the bike is the weakest link. I really like the Manitou Magnum (now replaced by the Mattoc) on my 2016 expert. The Yari is a really good, inexpensive option too.


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

ricky1981 said:


> It's a done deal, Fuse Expert Carbon ordered, got another $200 discount so that sealed it, will pick it up tomorrow


:thumbsup: Remember that we're waiting on photos... I've never seen a RHD one


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

Honda Guy said:


> Personally I'd invest in a better fork first. I feel like the Suntour on the bike is the weakest link. I really like the Manitou Magnum (now replaced by the Mattoc) on my 2016 expert. The Yari is a really good, inexpensive option too.


I'm jealous Jotocro that you found a red one... it's the only regret that I have despite the mega-deal that I got on Graphite + Orange.

Having owned my Comp for >6 months, I agree with Honda Guy re the fork. Mine knocks every time I lift, which doesn't affect the function but is annoying nonetheless. That said, there seem to be quite a few people pulling various interesting Boost forks off new bikes and upgrading, so it shouldn't be too hard to find a better unit.


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## Ramia (Apr 2, 2017)

Honda Guy said:


> Personally I'd invest in a better fork first. I feel like the Suntour on the bike is the weakest link. I really like the Manitou Magnum (now replaced by the Mattoc) on my 2016 expert. The Yari is a really good, inexpensive option too.


My 2017 Fuse comp has Manitou Machete fork and is a pretty descent suspenssion

Enviado desde mi FRD-L04 mediante Tapatalk


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

ricky1981 said:


> It's a done deal, Fuse Expert Carbon ordered, got another $200 discount so that sealed it, will pick it up tomorrow


I have not checked this thread in a few days, congrats!


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Honda Guy said:


> Personally I'd invest in a better fork first. I feel like the Suntour on the bike is the weakest link. I really like the Manitou Magnum (now replaced by the Mattoc) on my 2016 expert. The Yari is a really good, inexpensive option too.


Yea, blew the Suntour up in short order, terrible overall and unpredictable. I picked up a Fox Factory 36 Float 150mm early 16 take off for 400.00. I ended up leaving it 150mm after riding and found to my liking. I do have a 140mm cartridge but have yet to try.


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## ricky1981 (Jan 23, 2018)

As promised, here's something to brighten your day:









Only had a brief ride but loving it so far, very smooth and the combo of FS and 6Fattie tires seems fantastic.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Like! Carbon scares me. Someday I’ll emerge from the 90’s...


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## Gavooz (Feb 3, 2018)

Hi All,I got a 2016 fuse experts and the crank is making a huge clicking noise. Pulled the crank off and found one of the bearings have gone. Looks like a pf30 bottom bracket. Anyone know what replacement pf30 Botton bracket to get?


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## Jotocro (Jan 16, 2015)

Hey hona guy, the bike is not going to get abused anywhere near as bad as some so I reckon the fork will suffice for now but I hate the gearing at present so that will need sorting first. Not sure if I am going to go all weight weenie on it yet, kinda fancy a solid bike I can throw around for a laugh.


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

Gavooz said:


> Hi All,I got a 2016 fuse experts and the crank is making a huge clicking noise. Pulled the crank off and found one of the bearings have gone. Looks like a pf30 bottom bracket. Anyone know what replacement pf30 Botton bracket to get?


Wheels manufacturing has a thread together pf30 bottom bracket that is awesome and lasts forever. Solves a lot of the creaking issues that can appear with press fit bottom brackets. Go for the angular contact version. The non-thread together version uses the same quality bearings and is $25 cheaper but is a little more susceptible to creaking. My boss and coworker both have them and are super stoked on how they hold up over time (~1000 miles this year). If you're on a budget then Shimano would be my next choice.


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## Gavooz (Feb 3, 2018)

Will it still work ok with the original factory crank without adaptors or spacers? Was looking for a direct replacement.


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## Jotocro (Jan 16, 2015)

Anyone know what q factor is needed for a replacement crankset? Cheers guys.


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

ricky1981 said:


> As promised, here's something to brighten your day:
> 
> View attachment 1181228
> 
> ...


Sweeeeeet..... congratulations! That's a monster of a rear mudguard too.

Next photo needs to show it covered in mud / dust / snow / whatever you enjoy riding in...


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

Sold my AL Fuse and bought the plastic version. Replaced a lot of stuff and made it a similar ripper to my AL Fuse. Dropped a solid chunk of weight and every input does something, moreso than the AL (not saying the AL version isn't badass and great...). Lovin' the upgrade, and it loves the chunky stuff


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## XgreygOOse (Sep 8, 2007)

*My Specialized Fuse custom raw carbon edition.*

Hi guys, loving all the Fuse and info on this tread. 
Here is my new rig. Managed to get a hold of this one off raw carbon Fuse frame.
IMG_5331 by John Liu, on Flickr
Some highlight spec list.

Fuse Large frame.
Sram GX Eagle drivetrain
DVO Diamond Boost 29er reduced to 140mm
Hope Pro4 hubs on Spank OOzy 395plus
WTB Ranger 2.8 rear...3.0 front
Raceface Cockpit with Hope Tech 3 (E4 rear and V4 front)
Shimano 180mm 203mm rotors
IMG_5314 by John Liu, on Flickr
IMG_5335 by John Liu, on Flickr
IMG_5333 by John Liu, on Flickr
IMG_5319 by John Liu, on Flickr
IMG_5352 by John Liu, on Flickr
IMG_5313 by John Liu, on Flickr


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## DonH (Oct 1, 2004)

oKayH said:


> View attachment 1181370
> 
> 
> Sold my AL Fuse and bought the plastic version. Replaced a lot of stuff and made it a similar ripper to my AL Fuse. Dropped a solid chunk of weight and every input does something, moreso than the AL (not saying the AL version isn't badass and great...). Lovin' the upgrade, and it loves the chunky stuff


Looks nice!
Is that the Comp model with the chameleon color?
Any more pics available?


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## Ramia (Apr 2, 2017)

Are the Stout XC SL Wheels (rims) designed as tubeless ready rims? can anybody tell me please...


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

Looks like there's a lot going on amongst Fuse riders ATM!

@XgreygOOse - fantastic looking ride, I can see how much work you've put into the details (eg. black/green colour scheme) and I bet it rides as well as it looks! Seems a bit clean though.... 

@oKayH - congrats on your upgrade, I'm pleased to see that I'm not the only one mad enough to be out in the snow.

Some pics from my weekend run:









































Those are WW2 bomb craters in the 3rd and 4th pictures...


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

fmf979 said:


> I Road in some thick mud today at Raystown and my bottom chain was so close to the rear tire it was scraping mud off and plugging up The Idler Wheels on the derailleur causing the chain to come off.


See 2nd photo above - the chain had been scraping snow off the rear tyre and then depositing it onto the pulleys where it got compacted into ice... :skep:


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## NEastUnlmtd (Aug 25, 2016)

I am really enjoying snow riding but this week things got tougher with an ice layer and more on the way tomorrow. One from last year and one from a pipeline leak I came across around New Years.


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## fmf979 (Feb 14, 2016)

ken-de said:


> See 2nd photo above - the chain had been scraping snow off the rear tyre and then depositing it onto the pulleys where it got compacted into ice... :skep:


I was thinking to myself when I saw your snow pics I bet he ran into the problem I had the other day,then I scrolled down to your reply. 
My riding buddy did say thats the first real flaw I have found in 2 years of riding it so just dont down shift too much...


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## aGrower (May 15, 2017)

I have bought the 140mm air spring from CRC and the model looks a little bit different than my original 120mm.

Do anyone know if I should mount the spacer on the new air spring, or go without?

It is the Manitou magnum comp fork.


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Some nice black carbon Fuse's above. Thinking about upgrade from my Fuse AL comp to a carbon Fuse with upgrades.

Going to keep my Fuse comp and convert it to SS with carbon front fork(Niner).

Anyone convert thier Fuse (or any 27.5+ Bike) to SingleSpeed?


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

What kind of crank boots are you guys using on the Specialized Stout cranks? I have a 2016 Fuse Expert. Are they all pretty much a universal fit or are they brand specific? The blue Raceface ones look cool to me.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

I heard a rattle develop during a ride this past weekend stopped to give the bike a quick once over, but found nothing. While cleaning the bike, I discovered that the seat clap broke, causing that rattle!

Has anyone had this happen? I've had the bike since Christmas, and had the seat height adjusted at the shop and have not touched it since. I don't see too many 38.6mm clamps out there either...........I will swing by the shop to see what they have.


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

tjkm said:


> ... I discovered that the seat clap broke, causing that rattle!
> 
> Has anyone had this happen? ...


Nope, but it sounds like repair / replacement under warranty to me


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

ken-de said:


> Nope, but it sounds like repair / replacement under warranty to me


Swung by the shop on my way home yesterday to see about replacing the seat post clamp under warranty. They did not have the 38.6mm size in stock, and Specialized did not show that they have it available on the site the shop can see. They will be calling their Specialized rep today to figure this out. Hopefully this is not a long process...........


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

tjkm said:


> Hopefully this is not a long process...........


Any luck sorting out your Fuse? There are plenty of aftermarket options available over here starting from ~6 Euros (eg. Sattelklemme 31,8mm on bikecomponents.de), it may well not be worth the trouble chasing replacement under warranty...


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

ken-de said:


> Any luck sorting out your Fuse? There are plenty of aftermarket options available over here starting from ~6 Euros (eg. Sattelklemme 31,8mm on bikecomponents.de), it may well not be worth the trouble chasing replacement under warranty...


Ha! Yes, I am back in business after Specialized sent a new clamp to my shop, and they gave it to me at no cost. I guess this was not a warranty deal, and Specialized charged my shop. Not sure how all of that works between the mfg and shops, but either way, I am back on the Fuse.


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## trailwizard (Mar 12, 2018)

@​XgreygOOse That bike is so rad! how are you liking the 140mm fork?


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

tjkm said:


> Ha! Yes, I am back in business after Specialized sent a new clamp to my shop, and they gave it to me at no cost. I guess this was not a warranty deal, and Specialized charged my shop. Not sure how all of that works between the mfg and shops, but either way, I am back on the Fuse.


Exactly how it should be... as the customer, it shouldn't matter who pays for the <$10 part so long as you are back in the saddle and happy! Enjoy the ride.


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## derekve (Jul 30, 2017)

Has anyone put 29x 2.6 tires on their Fuse?.. Or know if it can fit that size?

Thanks!


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

derekve said:


> Has anyone put 29x 2.6 tires on their Fuse?.. Or know if it can fit that size?
> 
> Thanks!


I have. Nobby Nics fit with i29 wheels.


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

TNTall....how much space do you have around them rear 29 x 2.6 tires

I have the Fuse also, ride review with 29er tires? pictures


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

rushman3 said:


> TNTall....how much space do you have around them rear 29 x 2.6 tires
> 
> I have the Fuse also, ride review with 29er tires? pictures


Read back 1-2 pages on this thread to find all the answers, eg. post 1292 on page 13. :thumbsup:


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

rushman3 said:


> TNTall....how much space do you have around them rear 29 x 2.6 tires
> 
> I have the Fuse also, ride review with 29er tires? pictures


I changed those tires a while back because they didn't hold up for me. IIRC there was no rubbing or anything.


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## 25lbs&counting (Sep 7, 2006)

Press fit 30 sounds like a creaky pirate ship at sea. Drives me up the wall! Even changed to a Race Face BB. Still no luck! What did you guys do to stop the madness?


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## trailnimal (Mar 1, 2004)

Wheels manufacturing BB....also find that with the stout crank...dirt on the non drive side gets into the wafer washer and makes noise. A simple removal and cleaning fixes that.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

I put in a cheap Race Face Ride boost crank and bottom bracket. It's remained silent. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

Has anyone thrown a ridged fork on thier fuse? I'm thinking about throwing one on but I'm not sure what's out there, haven't really taken a look figured I'd post here first.


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Has anyone converted their Fuse to a singlespeed? Have had SSpeeds before and live in a good place for them(Bend).

Upgrading parts as I'm wearing them out and the drivetrains ready for change.Thinking it would be a good time to try a SS Fuse


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## dieonthishill (Dec 15, 2011)

tjkm said:


> Swung by the shop on my way home yesterday to see about replacing the seat post clamp under warranty. They did not have the 38.6mm size in stock, and Specialized did not show that they have it available on the site the shop can see. They will be calling their Specialized rep today to figure this out. Hopefully this is not a long process...........


Mine broke too. I had to buy mine. Specialized didn't cover it... Lame.


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## mic360 (May 4, 2015)

*New Fork Questions*

I have a 2016 Comp and I still have the suntour raidon on it but it is acting up so im thinking about getting a new fork. I was going to maybe go ridged but I can pick up a Fox 34 Rhythm 29 boost for a decent price. Anyone have this fork on their Fuse?

https://www.bike-components.de/en/F...thm-51-Boost-Suspension-Fork-2017-OEM-p61616/

Could someone tell me will this affect the geo of the bike? Will a 27.5x3.0 tire on wtb i45 rims fit on this fork? I have never replaced a fork before so im kind of nervous of missing something and buying the wrong fork.


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## trailnimal (Mar 1, 2004)

i have a manitou magnum comp from a fuse expert if you want to go used and keep cost down. pm me if interested


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

mic360 said:


> I have a 2016 Comp and I still have the suntour raidon on it but it is acting up so im thinking about getting a new fork. I was going to maybe go ridged but I can pick up a Fox 34 Rhythm 29 boost for a decent price. Anyone have this fork on their Fuse?
> 
> https://www.bike-components.de/en/F...thm-51-Boost-Suspension-Fork-2017-OEM-p61616/
> 
> Could someone tell me will this affect the geo of the bike? Will a 27.5x3.0 tire on wtb i45 rims fit on this fork? I have never replaced a fork before so im kind of nervous of missing something and buying the wrong fork.


That Bike Components offer is a great deal, I've been watching it and trying to quell my want/need to upgrade... ;-) I plan to test the oil-wiper mod on the Raidon first, as it seems that many others are satisfied that this solves the dry seal / cold weather issues.

The Rhythm 29 Boost has got good feedback as a replacement on the Fuse, AFAIK there is only one offset and this is a compatible replacement for the Raidon.

If you've found that offer, I guess you're in Europe.... can you read German? There's a lot of discussion from folks who have bought one of the Fox forks on offer here:

https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/specialized-fuse-ruze.844594/page-98

If you're installing yourself, it seems that the main trick is to accurately trim the steerer tube to the correct length.


----------



## Nissan80 (May 20, 2016)

I have a 2016 fox 34 boost 29er fork on my fuse. Its got a fit4 amper in it. Set at 120mm and its pefect. No problems fitting a 3 inch tyre. Big step up from the suntour fork especially the stiffness of the 34mm stanchions.


----------



## AZmuchacho (Nov 14, 2013)

*Fuse BB30 bearings*

i have a 17 fuse expert. i have the bb creak.

to those that have dealt with it:

did you replace the whole bb or just the bearings
what bearings did you use ?

i've watched a few you tube videos now i know enough to be dangerous.


----------



## Bikin' Bric (Sep 7, 2003)

My 2018 Fuse Comp on its first ride. Pretty sweet.


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

Bikin' Bric said:


> My 2018 Fuse Comp on its first ride. Pretty sweet.
> 
> View attachment 1191037


Cool colour combo, makes me sad that they stopped selling the Fuse here in Europe.


----------



## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

I've been meaning to upload some photos of my Fuse for a while. Here you go! Sorry, not sure how to rotate these??


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

Little spam... I'm moving on from my Medium Fuse Pro (the reach was just too long for me), though I loved how it rode - tons of fun in a compact package. I'm selling the frameset with dropper, carbon crankset, FSA headset and bottom bracket as a package:

Specialized Fuse Pro, 27.5 Frame w/ cranks/dropper/bearings - MTBR Classifieds

Asking $550, reasonable offers considered! Let me know if you are interested in getting into a Fuse build!


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## K-9 Tex (May 1, 2018)

Hi all,


I'm new to the group. I just picked up a new 2017 Specialized Fuse Comp 6Fattie. As far as have read they come with Manitou Machete fork. Mine has a SR Suntour Raidon why is this? Also what colors does the 2017 come in? Could it be possible the shop sold me a 2016 and said it was a 2017. Its a repeatable shop. Great bunch of guys.


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## fabrice (Mar 27, 2006)

ken-de said:


> That Bike Components offer is a great deal, I've been watching it and trying to quell my want/need to upgrade... ;-) I plan to test the oil-wiper mod on the Raidon first, as it seems that many others are satisfied that this solves the dry seal / cold weather issues.
> 
> The Rhythm 29 Boost has got good feedback as a replacement on the Fuse, AFAIK there is only one offset and this is a compatible replacement for the Raidon.


Hi,
What's the offset of the OEM Raidon fork ?
Do you have a link to that "oil-wiper mod" ?

Has someone bought that Rythm fork and tested on his fuse ?

Now information from my side : I have replaced the stock Stout crank with a Cannondale Hollowgram SL that I took off my old Taurine. With the stock axle (132mm) and a Wolftooth 30T "direct mount" ring (non Boost offset). The chainline looks perfect (I have to measure it and check the centering). For the fitting, I had to play a little with spacers on the axle... as one should expect.
The Q-factor (not measured either) is low, since the crank arms are pretty close for the chainstays.


----------



## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

K-9 Tex said:


> I just picked up a new 2017 Specialized Fuse Comp 6Fattie. As far as have read they come with Manitou Machete fork. Mine has a SR Suntour Raidon why is this? Also what colors does the 2017 come in? Could it be possible the shop sold me a 2016 and said it was a 2017.


Quite possible, I would say. Different markets seem to have bought more stock than others, and then carry models over so to speak. In Europe, 2015 / 2016 build bikes were being sold in 2017, sometimes with the claim that they were current 2017 models despite other markets having new colours / specs for 2017.

What colour is yours? Perhaps post a pic if you can.


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

fabrice said:


> What's the offset of the OEM Raidon fork ?


Fork offset for the Raidon is 51mm



fabrice said:


> Do you have a link to that "oil-wiper mod" ?


How good is your German?  Actually, a few members have been asking those who have done the mod for detailed instructions, without success so far.

https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/specialized-fuse-ruze.844594/page-113

Post 2811 shows a Fuse Comp with the Rhythm 34 fitted. The general opinion is that, even compared with the oil-wipe conversion Raidon, the Rhythm is "night and day" with big improvement in feel / fine tuning.


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## fabrice (Mar 27, 2006)

ken-de said:


> Fork offset for the Raidon is 51mm
> 
> How good is your German?  Actually, a few members have been asking those who have done the mod for detailed instructions, without success so far.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your reply 
My German is very limited, I can make an order for bike parts on a website in German language, but that's almost all (I can also order and buy a Bratwürst or a beer, but that doesn't help for understanding technical reports)

Well, tempted by the Rythm fork !
I may add it to the order that I'm preparing ... (with tyres for the 29" wheels that I've just built for the Fuse...)


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

fabrice said:


> My German is very limited, I can make an order for bike parts on a website in German language, but that's almost all


No problems, the bike components site can be switched over to English also, but let me know if you need any help.

Interesting that so many people are converting their Fuses to 29 wheels. My previous ride (before it was stolen) was a Canyon 29er, and I'm very happy with the decision to go 27.5+. Perhaps I'm getting old, but I like the extra comfort as well as the extra grip.... :skep: ... it seems to help keep an old back injury off the radar too.


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## fabrice (Mar 27, 2006)

Thanks for the kind offer, but I know for bike components (and -discount and -24) for the English version, I'm a very regular customer 
As a German language website, I had in mind "cnc-bike.de" where I sometimes buy some stuff.

I really love my fuse with 27.5+ wheels, it's great fun !
The 29" wheels will use less "watt" and are intended for longer distances (moreover with other guys who push hard...), but also because I'm getting rid of my old 26" MTB's (hardtail and full susp) so my Fuse will be nearly my one and unique MTB for now (except a 29" steel full rigid singlespeed... so not the choice of reason for long distances either). And also because I like building wheels, and that's with components I made good deals on. These 29" wheels are : Pacenti rims, Novatec hubs 28H, Sapim D-light spokes. Approx 1750g and 200€.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

aaronpass said:


> Mine broke too. I had to buy mine. Specialized didn't cover it... Lame.


Bummer. Don't shops and manufacturers realize it is the little things like this that drive people crazy?


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

I'm in a catch 22 with my Fuse. I'm 5'11,33 inseam. I ride a large. If I run a 50mm stem the bike handles great and pops off roots, rocks and jumps just fine but climbs like crap. Way too light on steep ups. The 90mm stem feels great for xc and climbing but of course gives a heavy front end. In usually pretty good at bike set-up and I've been doing it a long time. I'm not looking to make major changes just wondering what similar size riders are liking. The cockpit is a bit longer so maybe I'm between sizes? Thoughts? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

I am 5'10.5" with 33.5" inseam. Riding a large, all stock and it fits me great. The front end wanders on the steeper uphills. Sometimes I will wander into an obstacle and come to a stop. Have the original med. Karate Monkey and it is so much better at climbing. Any gravity assist however, the Fuse shines.


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## jbowland (May 7, 2004)

Flash said:


> I'm in a catch 22 with my Fuse. I'm 5'11,33 inseam. I ride a large. If I run a 50mm stem the bike handles great and pops off roots, rocks and jumps just fine but climbs like crap. Way too light on steep ups. The 90mm stem feels great for xc and climbing but of course gives a heavy front end. In usually pretty good at bike set-up and I've been doing it a long time. I'm not looking to make major changes just wondering what similar size riders are liking. The cockpit is a bit longer so maybe I'm between sizes? Thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I changed out to a slightly less riser bar by race face, lowered my hand position by a little. Honestly I have never had and issue climbing stupid steep things on the fuse after that and it maintained most of the playfulness.


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

Flash said:


> I'm in a catch 22 with my Fuse. I'm 5'11,33 inseam. I ride a large. If I run a 50mm stem the bike handles great and pops off roots, rocks and jumps just fine but climbs like crap. Way too light on steep ups. The 90mm stem feels great for xc and climbing but of course gives a heavy front end. In usually pretty good at bike set-up and I've been doing it a long time. I'm not looking to make major changes just wondering what similar size riders are liking. The cockpit is a bit longer so maybe I'm between sizes? Thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I really like the way mine climbs with the stock 60mm stem. I haven't tried anything longer or shorter because it feels well balanced to me. Maybe go in between the 90 and 50 with a 70mm stem?

I am 6'0" and on a large for reference.


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## eyre (Mar 23, 2007)

tjkm said:


> Has anyone had this happen? I've had the bike since Christmas, and had the seat height adjusted at the shop and have not touched it since. I don't see too many 38.6mm clamps out there either...........I will swing by the shop to see what they have.


This happened to my wife over the weekend on her mothers day ride ... major bummer - the 38.6 is super hard to find. Was able to get it fixed but definitely have a backup on order...


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

Has anyone swapped the 30 tooth chainwheel on their Fuse for a 32 tooth without also changing the cassette and/or derailleur? 

I'm looking at the Blackspire Snaggletooth and am curious if I can swap the chainwheel without needing to lengthen my chain... if so, I'd extend my gearing a little which would suit my normal riding style (fast trails, less climbing).


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## dieonthishill (Dec 15, 2011)

eyre said:


> This happened to my wife over the weekend on her mothers day ride ... major bummer - the 38.6 is super hard to find. Was able to get it fixed but definitely have a backup on order...


Mine broke too... Had to pay for it.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

ken-de said:


> Has anyone swapped the 30 tooth chainwheel on their Fuse for a 32 tooth without also changing the cassette and/or derailleur?
> 
> I'm looking at the Blackspire Snaggletooth and am curious if I can swap the chainwheel without needing to lengthen my chain... if so, I'd extend my gearing a little which would suit my normal riding style (fast trails, less climbing).


My bike came with a 28t up front. Not sure about the chain question.


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

tjkm said:


> My bike came with a 28t up front. Not sure about the chain question.


Thanks for the heads up, I double checked the specs and the bike itself, and my Comp with 1x10 came with a 30t. I pulled the derailleur right across whilst on the biggest gear and seem to have 2+ links to play with, so I bit the bullet and ordered. Will report back if it is sufficient.


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

ken-de said:


> Will report back if it is sufficient.


The 32T is on, and a short test ride would indicate that the standard chain is sufficient and accommodates the slightly larger chainwheel without needing lengthening.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

So, I'm swapping my build from my large Fuse to a large Ruze. Not the exact geometry changes I wanted but interesting enough to see what happens. I'll have a large Fuse frame for sale after the swap. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Flash said:


> So, I'm swapping my build from my large Fuse to a large Ruze. Not the exact geometry changes I wanted


you also loose 30mm of front travel and the option for a later upgrade to a longer fork due to the much lesser bb drop of the Ruze frame

why the change??


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## dieonthishill (Dec 15, 2011)

So I just bought a new XX1 crankset for my Fuse Expert Carbon. I still have the original bottom bracket and in putting the new spindle through, it seems too short... Anyone have any thoughts as to what the problem could be?


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## bees_by_the_sea (Jun 13, 2018)

So I also own this bike and just stripped the pedal out of the crank. So, please reccomend which cranks to buy for replacement. 
Mine is an XS.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## bees_by_the_sea (Jun 13, 2018)

bees_by_the_sea said:


> So I also own this bike and just stripped the pedal out of the crank. So, please reccomend which cranks to buy for replacement.
> Mine is an XS.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


I also have to admit, I really don't like this bike for me at all. It feels too big and clunky. I'm only 5'3".

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

bees_by_the_sea said:


> I also have to admit, I really don't like this bike for me at all. It feels too big and clunky. I'm only 5'3".


Sorry to hear that, the Fuse/Ruze are certainly chunky feeling bikes, but with the right frame size - which yours should be with an XS and 5'3" - should still feel controllable and chuckable thanks to the big grip provided by the plus tyres. Are you stepping between different formats, eg. road and MTB plus? I have a Fuse and a Felt Cruiser, and moving between the two formats requires a period of adjustment each time I switch between, even after running them both for >1 year in parallel.

Am I correct in understanding that the problem is that the damage is limited to the crank arm itself? There's plenty of folks who have upgraded cranks / BB on this thread, perhaps one of them can offer you their original Stout XC parts? Otherwise, I've seen quite a few running SRAM products (https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/component/cranksets), but I think the compatibility depends upon exactly which drivetrain you've got. HTH.


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## bees_by_the_sea (Jun 13, 2018)

Thanks so much! I'm just getting into MTB, so I'm still learning about components and repairs. This seems pretty daunting to me!

Looks like the threads in the crank are stripped, but the ones on the pedal remained intact. Are these cranks cheap??


ken-de said:


> Sorry to hear that, the Fuse/Ruze are certainly chunky feeling bikes, but with the right frame size - which yours should be with an XS and 5'3" - should still feel controllable and chuckable thanks to the big grip provided by the plus tyres. Are you stepping between different formats, eg. road and MTB plus? I have a Fuse and a Felt Cruiser, and moving between the two formats requires a period of adjustment each time I switch between, even after running them both for >1 year in parallel.
> 
> Am I correct in understanding that the problem is that the damage is limited to the crank arm itself? There's plenty of folks who have upgraded cranks / BB on this thread, perhaps one of them can offer you their original Stout XC parts? Otherwise, I've seen quite a few running SRAM products (https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/component/cranksets), but I think the compatibility depends upon exactly which drivetrain you've got. HTH.












Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## bees_by_the_sea (Jun 13, 2018)

So it would appear I'm getting this repaired for FREE!

https://www.consumeraffairs.com/new...ecialized-bikes-with-stout-cranks-050918.html

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

bees_by_the_sea said:


> Thanks so much! I'm just getting into MTB, so I'm still learning about components and repairs.


first thing to learn is that the left side crank arm always has a counter clockwise thread. It's ok to destroy it the first time just remember next time you install some pedals


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## bees_by_the_sea (Jun 13, 2018)

Steel Calf said:


> first thing to learn is that the left side crank arm always has a counter clockwise thread. It's ok to destroy it the first time just remember next time you install some pedals


Pretty sure I didn't thread them incorrectly.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Yeah sure, pretty sure but isn't it a huge coincidence that it's always the left crank thread that got mysteriously destroyed.


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## bees_by_the_sea (Jun 13, 2018)

Steel Calf said:


> Yeah sure, pretty sure but isn't it a huge coincidence that it's always the left crank thread that got mysteriously destroyed.


There's no need to be mean.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## bees_by_the_sea (Jun 13, 2018)

Steel Calf said:


> Yeah sure, pretty sure but isn't it a huge coincidence that it's always the left crank thread that got mysteriously destroyed.


The final verdict is that the boots on the end of the cranks didn't fit properly which didn't allow for proper threading of the pedals. The drive side was also stripped. Lesson learned. 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

After one year I eventually swapped that stock piece of sh*t Suntour Raidon+ fork for a Fox34 Rythm and it improved the bike in a lot of areas: Slacker headangle (now 66.5) due to 10mm more atc, slightly more bb clearance (raised by about 4mm), cut the steer so I have room for 30mm spacers underneath the stem for a more upright riding position. Oh yeah the Fox34 is also far more predictable, doesn't loose it's rebound adjuster after one ride and doesn't need all kind of special tuning to make it useful.

I know that many spacers may look silly to some but remember I've ~34" inseam and ride a M frame which has a rather short headtube. I'm still hunting for a compatible FSA conical top cover which should make the spacer stack appear less awkward.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

the rythm34 was a steal at its sale price.


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

bees_by_the_sea said:


> So it would appear I'm getting this repaired for FREE!
> 
> https://www.consumeraffairs.com/new...ecialized-bikes-with-stout-cranks-050918.html


That is indeed a good outcome! Must check the production date on mine...


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

bees_by_the_sea said:


> So it would appear I'm getting this repaired for FREE!
> 
> https://www.consumeraffairs.com/new...ecialized-bikes-with-stout-cranks-050918.html
> 
> Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


just to clarify: this is about the crankarm coming loose from the bb (for whatever reason)

Hundreds if not thousands of Fuse got sold in Germany yet I haven't read a single time about a crankarm becoming loose or someone stripping the pedals threads, yet there are numerous reports about the rear hub bearing being shot in no time, I actually wonder if there is someone whose stock rear hub from a Fuse Comp/Expert is still working ?


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> I actually wonder if there is someone whose stock rear hub from a Fuse Comp/Expert is still working ?


Mine has lasted >12 months so far... although I did re-pack it straight out of the box, and I'm not exactly a heavy duty user at 72kgs and <50kms/week. I did have a crank arm work loose, but figured that I hadn't tightened it properly after re-packing the BB (and I hadn't used Loctite on the bolts either).

Given the recall originates out of the US, I guess it's classified as a safety risk for which Specialized doesn't want to be sued...


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

Please post a link if you know of sale prices for the Fox Rhythm 34 fork. I don't need one now, but may buy a spare, depending on the price. IIRC I paid $500 for a Magnum Manitou Pro 34, a stellar fork. Taking a while to tune it and burn it in.

How do the above 2 forks compare? 

My stock rear 2016 Fuse hub is fine, but I bought the bike used from a Spec dealer wrench, who may have swapped hubs, so inconclusive.


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

For those wanting a new fork, suntour north america has an upgrade program where you can get a discounted new fork.

https://www.srsuntour.com/pages/upgrade

Two in particular....

AION RC PCS 15QLC 29/27.5+$424.95 USD
AURON RC2 PCS 15QLC 29/27.5+ $524.95 USD

Would be suitable replacements for the Raidon the Fuse Comp's came stock with.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

DeeEight said:


> Would be suitable replacements for the Raidon the Fuse Comp's came stock with.


a suitable replacement would be a Fox Rythmn 34. (Got mine for 190€)

I wouldn't buy a Suntour of any kind again because for the reason of simplicity and longer maintenance intervals Suntour forks are lubricated with grease inside instead of oil thus they are less sensible than Fox/RockShox forks.

BTW I did the oil upgrade on my Suntour Raidon but the fork was still sh*t compared to the Fox


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

Hey everyone,

Seeking experiences / opinions on the whole tubeless debate, as I'm regularly told and have also read both in magazines and on forums that tubeless is the only way to go. I understand that this is mostly about weight saving but perhaps I haven't picked up on the other purported benefits.

Context: I'm a rairly light duty rider, 72kgs, <50kms/week mostly in forests with some rocky / stony terrain. Haven't had a problem yet with the set up as delivered, running around 1.0 bar.

From what I understand, I've got 3 options:
1. stick with "out of the box", being Specialized tubes at ~600gms per wheel
2. go tubeless, saving ~600gms then adding ~200gms (valve + sealant), net benefit 400gms with risk of weeping sidewalls 
3. switch to lighter tubes (eg. Schwalbe SV21F), saving ~600gms then adding ~200gms, net benefit 400gms 

I'm curious whether 400gms per wheel is really such a significant / noticeable saving? Also why would one go tubeless and risk the weeping issues instead of swapping out for lighter tubes? I guess potential fragility of the lighter tubes needs to be considered?

TIA for sharing your experiences / opinions!


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

ken-de said:


> I understand that this is mostly about weight saving but perhaps I haven't picked up on the other purported benefits.


nope. Google for "tubeless advantages" and try again.


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

@Steel Calf, thanks for your reply, I've done so previously but did so again today in case any clearer enlightenment has been published more recently.

Much of what I found remains irrelevant for my situation, for example, if I consider the list from mtbtreks.com:

Reliability / Fewer flat tires - not an issue for me with my Fuse with tubes 
Running Lower Tire Pressure- not an issue for me with my Fuse with tubes 
Decreased rolling resistance - given the relatively low pressures that the plus format allows, the idea of losing significant amounts momentum through vertical deflection of energy isn't really applicable 
Improved ride feel - possible benefit here? 
Less weight - 400gms per wheel per my original post, no idea how much difference that makes in reducing the spinning mass 

Perhaps someone can point me to a definitive source that considers the nuances of the plus format?

As you've pointed out on mtb-news.de, the sweating sealant problem is persistent with the Specialized tyres, thus my original question seeking to understand whether it is really worth going tubeless on the basis of the benefits vs drawbacks. Not sure I'm any further forward&#8230;.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Didn't mean to be harsh but the advantages of a tubeless setup should be common knowledge by now and can easily be looked up should you have been asleep the last ~15 years 

Of the points you mentioned improved reliability and lower weight are my two main reasons for going tubeless, especially with plus tires the reduced rotational weight is significant and can immediately be felt. Furthermore and as I've mentioned on mtb news it's nearly impossible to find an optimal air pressure with 3.0" tires due to the (too large) air volume, raise the air pressure and the tires start to bounce, lower it and you'll pinch flat the tube in no time - thus tubeless and some Huck Norris / cSixx Foam is the way to go.

If you don't experience any of these issues and don't mind having to carry around 400g (!) additional weight per wheel just keep on riding


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Today I swapped the Fuse wheels with some WTB Trailblazers 2.8 on 45mm rims from a 2016 Marin Pine Mountain 2 to give narrower tires a try. (I measured them 69mm wide)



















Maybe not the best exchange since they are actually 2.5 tires mounted on a ridiculously wide 45mm rim to stretch them to 2.7 width. With no side knobs left the resulting subrectangular tire is a quick way to hospital should you ever corner hard but I guess the Marin product manager thought this is perfectly rideable and put them on a heavy as lead steel frame with a 70° HA and called that ~33lbs monstrosity "Pine Mountain".

I still liked the Fuse with that weird tires because they feel far less bouncy than the 3.0" Specialized ones and even though the wheels are 300g heavier now due to tubes inside them (5700g vs. 5400g) the bike felt much snappier too. Makes me wonder how the Nobby Nic 2.8 / Rocket Ron 2.8 tubeless mounted on 40mm XM1501 wheels will eventually turn out?


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> Didn't mean to be harsh but the advantages of a tubeless setup should be common knowledge by now and can easily be looked up should you have been asleep the last ~15 years


Überhaupt kein Thema, this is the internet after all! 

Actually, you're not that far from the mark. Until recently I was getting about on a ~2004 Trek 4300 on which the most I ever did mod-wise was swapped between street and dirt tyres&#8230; and I didn't have time to do anything on my Canyon before it was stolen.

I was kind of sort of hoping that I'd learn going tubeless was a life changing upgrade. On the basis of the feedback, I'll stick with what I've got until such time as I start experiencing the bounce / pinch / rotating weight challenges that are discussed above.


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## Astar350B2 (Feb 11, 2012)

Hello, does anyone else have help for the lower range alloy frame bikes , the Fuse 6Fattie/29 and the Fuse Sport 6Fattie/29 ....in regards to the rear hub replacement?

These two variants have the:

"Stout 141, alloy, sealed cartridge bearings, 6-bolt disc, 10-speed freehub, quick-release, 10x141mm spacing, 28h" quick release style hub............... and use a 10 speed rear cassette Sunrace, 10-speed, 11-42t .

In order to convert to a more durable DT Swiss 350 or Hope Pro 4 Boost 148MM type rear hub, it possibly needs a hub conversion kit or special end caps?

Anyone have precise details on how to convert these bikes from 141 QR 10mm hub to 148 boost hub QR 10mm type rear?

EDITS ----------------------------->

(This is a reply email I received from Hope Tech Support)

* " RHP428N148SA is the hub you need then you need to fit conversion kit HUB238 to turn it into a 141 qr. "*

------------------------------------->

It also seems that the DT Swiss 350 Hub needed is the Part Number:
*H350TDDLR28SA9009S* which is a 12 x148 Boost 6 bolt brake, Shimano 9/10/11 drive, 28h.

Received email reply from DT swiss support:

*You can use the kit below to convert your 148x12 hub into 141x10mm.
You can order the kit from your local bike shop.

10x135m Shimano MTB Kit HWGXXX0001803S

QBP HU1383

BTi DT-0532

J&B 37793*


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Astar350B2 said:


> In order to convert to a more durable DT Swiss 350 or Hope Pro 4 Boost 148MM type rear hub, it possibly needs a hub conversion kit or special end caps?
> 
> Anyone have precise details on how to convert these bikes from 141 QR 10mm hub to 148 boost hub QR 10mm type rear?


Either make the hub fit the frame or the frame fit the (new) hub.

You'll need a Boost hub that can be converted from 148x12 thru axle to a 141x9 QR or 141x10 RWS axle, Hope and DT Swiss both offer options here but remember that a different flange height of a new hub may require new spokes too.

I couldn't determine by using google if the dropouts of the Fuse Sport frame are convertible to a 148x12mm thru axle and you didn't post any pictures either, but I'd rather go that route if it's possible.


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## Astar350B2 (Feb 11, 2012)

Steel Calf said:


> Either make the hub fit the frame or the frame fit the (new) hub.
> 
> You'll need a Boost hub that can be converted from 148x12 thru axle to a 141x9 QR or 141x10 RWS axle, Hope and DT Swiss both offer options here but remember that a different flange height of a new hub may require new spokes too.
> 
> I couldn't determine by using google if the dropouts of the Fuse Sport frame are convertible to a 148x12mm thru axle and you didn't post any pictures either, but I'd rather go that route if it's possible.


The base and sport have no removable dropouts the dropout is part of the frame.


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## trrubicon06 (Jul 24, 2009)

I just purchased a new 2018 Fuse Comp this past weekend. Haven't had a chance to ride it yet, because I'm waiting for the crank arm replacement. Anyone have the replacement done and if so, is it the same style arm?


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

My wife just got her 2018 Fuse Comp. Size small, same color. The shop said the cranks/recall was already taken care of. Cranks look identical to the pic on Spec website.

My wife's bike came with a Recon (120mm travel) instead of a Machete, and Level brakes instead of Tektro. Conversion to tubeless with the included stems was easy, which was nice. We put a 11-46t SLX cassette (for the 46t), which fit without a new (longer) chain.

I opened the bb and headset and found them packed with adequate grease (EDIT: Unless... the stuff was vaseline and not grease. It was packed, but clear). Some previous frames, mentioned earlier in this thread, mentioned a lack of grease and subsequent bearing failure, so I thought I'd check before it had a chance to be a problem...

My wife, who's a good veteran (20+ year) rider, loves the bike, coming off a 5 y.o. S-works Fate, which is no slouch of a frame...


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

trrubicon06 said:


> I just purchased a new 2018 Fuse Comp this past weekend. Haven't had a chance to ride it yet, because I'm waiting for the crank arm replacement. Anyone have the replacement done and if so, is it the same style arm?
> 
> View attachment 1206423


Congrats! Nice looking bike that you will enjoy riding.


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## trrubicon06 (Jul 24, 2009)

tjkm said:


> Congrats! Nice looking bike that you will enjoy riding.


Thanks! Can't wait to get some ride time in. Been 5 years since since I've ridden.


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## joyride153 (Oct 26, 2004)

Anyone selling there Fuse size Medium? Everyone here is selling a large, I can buy a new one but it would be pointless paying for a new bike with components I will end up replacing.

PM ME


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## Kennythevamp (Aug 1, 2018)

Anyone change to a 2.8 tire? Specialized told me that the thinnest I could go would be 2.8 without having pedal strick problems. I'm wondering what tire people went to. I want something lighter and more playful for jumps than the 3.0 it came with. Still want some grip to open it up if I wan, bit less rolling resistance I suppose--or does that even matter in jump park with PSI high?


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

Kennythevamp said:


> Anyone change to a 2.8 tire?


Lots of guys on the German forums have shifted to 2.8 (often written as 2,8 in German). Tyre brands / models include Schwalbe Magic Mary, Schwalbe G-One, Maxxis Rekon, Maxxis Minion, WTB Trailblazer.

Some have also talked about moving to 2.6 but you might need to consider narrower rims.

If you've got the patience to go through 125 pages or try lots of options in the search:

https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/specialized-fuse-ruze.844594/page-121#post-15342234


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## Kennythevamp (Aug 1, 2018)

ken-de said:


> Lots of guys on the German forums have shifted to 2.8 (often written as 2,8 in German). Tyre brands / models include Schwalbe Magic Mary, Schwalbe G-One, Maxxis Rekon, Maxxis Minion, WTB Trailblazer.
> 
> Some have also talked about moving to 2.6 but you might need to consider narrower rims.
> 
> ...


Thanks buddy, I'll check it out today.


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## SeanMurr123 (Jul 23, 2016)

Kennythevamp said:


> Anyone change to a 2.8 tire? Specialized told me that the thinnest I could go would be 2.8 without having pedal strick problems. I'm wondering what tire people went to. I want something lighter and more playful for jumps than the 3.0 it came with. Still want some grip to open it up if I wan, bit less rolling resistance I suppose--or does that even matter in jump park with PSI high?


I use 2.8 Butchers. They are a much better size IMO. They have loads of grip. I've also tried Maxxis DHF/Recon+ in the harder dual compound rather than 3c, I think I like that better as I like a bit less traction on the back compared to the front and sacrificing a little less grip for longer tyre wear and a bit faster rolling is ok because there is still heaps of grip.
No problems with pedal strikes.

PS if Spec. made the Purgatory in 2.8 I would go Butch/Purg as I prefer the feel of the Specialized sidewalls over Maxxis. They are somehow both firmer and softer, kind of extra supportive until a point then go nice and plush over roots etc.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

See LOTS of people asking about BB solutions.. I swapped to a Shimano XT crank with a praxis adapter last year. It has been smooth and trouble free, no creaking.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Race Face cranks and bottom bracket. Silent. 

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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

Just developed a creak in the BB last week. I'm on the stock Race Face cranks.


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## frecher (May 6, 2018)

For those running 2.8 tires, has anyone run them on a 45 mm rim? I purchased a good used 2016 this season only to find out that Specialized moved to a thinner rim in 2017. Wondering if I should be looking for new rims if I want to go thinner.

Hmm, anyone want to sell a set of 38 mm take off rims?


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## scrrll (Mar 31, 2017)

frecher said:


> For those running 2.8 tires, has anyone run them on a 45 mm rim? I purchased a good used 2016 this season only to find out that Specialized moved to a thinner rim in 2017. Wondering if I should be looking for new rims if I want to go thinner.
> 
> Hmm, anyone want to sell a set of 38 mm take off rims?


I run 2.8 on my nobl tr45. Have no issues.

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## frecher (May 6, 2018)

scrrll said:


> I run 2.8 on my nobl tr45. Have no issues.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Do you find the 2.8 in 45s to offer an advantage over the 3.0s? I generally love the bike but wouldn't mind it being a little more playful.

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## scrrll (Mar 31, 2017)

frecher said:


> Do you find the 2.8 in 45s to offer an advantage over the 3.0s? I generally love the bike but wouldn't mind it being a little more playful.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Went to minion dhf and dhr for the extra traction. Ride a lot of wet rocks and roots. Thinking the traction played a greater rule than tire width.

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## Kennythevamp (Aug 1, 2018)

frecher said:


> Do you find the 2.8 in 45s to offer an advantage over the 3.0s? I generally love the bike but wouldn't mind it being a little more playful.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


I find that it does. Using the stock i45 rims with maxxis rekon and ikons. More grip and more playful. Can't beat it. It is noticably lower to the ground though but I haven't had a problem with pedal strikes since the BB is low to begin with. Don't think you could go smaller than 2.8 but I think 2.8 is perfect for the bike.


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## teethandnails (Sep 16, 2013)

I just picked up a 2016 Fuse Expert Large used! Barely ridden, and basically new. I added a SMAC 800mm riser bar and Thompson elite 50mm stem. I am still undecided on the Manitou Magnum fork, but the dropper and 1x10 GX have to go... probably GX 12sp and a 150mm dropper of some kind. The 1x10 does not have enough range, and the transX dropper does not have enough travel. I am also sticking a 29x2.5 on the front, leaving the 27.5x3.0 out back... moto setup!


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Has anyone replaced the headset? Mine came apart after two rides. What replacement do you guys suggest? Thanks


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## teethandnails (Sep 16, 2013)

Bassballer150 said:


> Has anyone replaced the headset? Mine came apart after two rides. What replacement do you guys suggest? Thanks


Cane Creek 40!


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

teethandnails said:


> Cane Creek 40!


Their seems to be several sizes , I have a 2016 , what size would I need? Thank you.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Bassballer150 said:


> Has anyone replaced the headset? Mine came apart after two rides. What replacement do you guys suggest? Thanks


Why would you not go back to the shop for this? If it came apart after 2 rides, that's a warranty issue.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Had my Fuse cleaned up and out for a photo shoot yesterday... 2015 Fuse Comp 6Fattie.. swapped to XT Group set, Rockshox Pike fork, Industry9 Backcountry 450 wheels, Raceface Next carbon bar, RaceFace Atlas stem.


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## frecher (May 6, 2018)

CrankAddictRich said:


> Had my Fuse cleaned up and out for a photo shoot yesterday... 2015 Fuse Comp 6Fattie.. swapped to XT Group set, Rockshox Pike fork, Industry9 Backcountry 450 wheels, Raceface Next carbon bar, RaceFace Atlas stem.


That red is by far the best

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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Just purchased brand new for a deal I couldn't pass up. Nukeproof horizon bars, Kona Wah Wah pedals this are the best flats I've ever es owned









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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Bassballer150 said:


> Has anyone replaced the headset? Mine came apart after two rides. What replacement do you guys suggest? Thanks


I just replaced the headset on my red 2016 Fuse Comp with some FSA MR171 and Specialized (both industrial type bearings) and a nice Ritchey top cap (15mm stack) that I got laying around since the original one started creaking which couldn't be remedied by regreasing.



















It's a dead cheap FSA cartridge type headset that just wasn't up to the task of taking higher loads especially on the medium Fuse frame which has a rather short 100mm headtube

I'd really like getting to know that assguy at Specialized HQ who specced this crap component, no wonder they were stuck with a stock pile of over 1000 unsold MY2016 Fuses in europe last year

For people who've time to order sth new I did the research and found the following headsets to be compatible:

Cane Creek Series 40 IS42/28,6 H15 - IS52/40 Tapered Headset product#*BAA0784K

Cane Creek Series 40 IS42/28,6 H7 - IS52/40 Tapered Headset product#*BAA0783K

(difference between the Cane Creek BAA0783K and BAA0784K is the height of the upper cap (7mm vs. 15mm), the BAA0784K got a 15mm conical cap which looks better IMO if you've got a lot of spacers under the stem)

FSA*No.42 C-40/ACB 121-0462A (= with 15mm Alloy top cap

FSA No.42 C-40/ACB 121-0461A*(= with 7mm Alloy top cop)

here again I'd opt for the 15mm Alloy top cap

if you just need the bearings these cane Creek 40 bearing set can be bought individually (below are the Specialized bearings of the higher end Fuse)










before










after










Note: If you mix everything together like I did you may need to put some "micro spacers" underneath the top cap


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

I replaced the bearing yesterday with some cheap ones from my lbs, but thank you for posting the info on compatible headsets I will replace mine sometime in the spring 


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Did some riding this Sunday in Oakridge Oregon, awesome trails there









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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Does anyone know the weight difference just for a frame from carbon to aluminum?

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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Specialized Fuse in Cyprus










Rider height 5'11" / 34.5" inseam
2016 size M frame
Fox34 Rhythm 29 fork with 130mm travel
150mm KS LEV dropper post
60mm stem / 780mm handlebars
DT Swiss XM1501 40mm wheels
Nobby Nic 2.8 @12psi / Rocket Ron 2.8 @13psi + cSixx Foamo X-Wide rim protection


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Probably has already been mentioned but check your hubs









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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

This is the rest hub, started making weird noise so I opened it up, bearings started falling out as soon as I started un-doing the bearing cover









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## borre mtb (Sep 29, 2018)

Hello I would like to use a oval chainring on my fuse. 
Could not find one for the stout crank. 
I have a absolute black oval ring with cinch direct mount.

so I went for a raceface crank. (aeffect) 



















I have a raceface bb from my other bike. 









but with this bottom bracket, the thinker (silver) parts of the crank spindel are not align with the bb bearings.

Do I need this bottom bracket?


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## adaycj (Sep 30, 2009)

Bassballer150 said:


> This is the rest hub, started making weird noise so I opened it up, bearings started falling out as soon as I started un-doing the bearing cover
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Those loose balls are what Specialized calls a "sealed cartridge bearing" hub in their specs. It is a special surprise for Fuse owners to find, much like an Easter egg.


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Can this bearings be replaced with a sealed cartridge? 


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

Bassballer150 said:


> Can this bearings be replaced with a sealed cartridge?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Very doubtful. But, I don't know for sure. A lot of coincidences would have to come together, as well as a way to modify or replace the now coneless axle.

I'd just re-pack and ride, unless I had the extra funds for a new wheelset. Replace the bb's if necessary, even add a bearing if there's ample room. (I've added a bearing in cases where there was a bearing cage present that had disintegrated, and a new cage wasn't available.)


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Bassballer150 said:


> Can this bearings be replaced with a sealed cartridge?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


nope.

you need a new rear hub, preferably not a Specialized one. I already had to swap the rear hub and the headset on my 2016 Fuse Comp because that cheap ass cartridge type bearing won't stop creaking no matter how much grease I put inside. Major components like rear hub, bottom bracket and headset are just not up to the job and would rather be expected on a wallmart bike but not on a Specialized with a 1700€ price tag.

I don't know why Specialized decided to spec this crap but it surely hasn't added to their reputation in a positive way (in europe Fuse sales very weak anyway, guess why)


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> nope.
> 
> you need a new rear hub, preferably not a Specialized one. I already had to swap the rear hub and the headset on my 2016 Fuse Comp because that cheap ass cartridge type bearing won't stop creaking no matter how much grease I put inside. Major components like rear hub, bottom bracket and headset are just not up to the job and would rather be expected on a wallmart bike but not on a Specialized with a 1700€ price tag.
> 
> I don't know why Specialized decided to spec this crap but it surely hasn't added to their reputation in a positive way (in europe Fuse sales very weak anyway, guess why)


Yeah for sure , I just got the bike not too long ago and already having to put money into it for un reliable issues. I will be getting some new bearings for the mean time until I can get a new hub

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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Have you contacted your dealer? Mine has and is always good about calling Specialized and getting stuff sorted.


Bassballer150 said:


> Yeah for sure , I just got the bike not too long ago and already having to put money into it for un reliable issues. I will be getting some new bearings for the mean time until I can get a new hub
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## overmyhead (Apr 26, 2017)

Love the ride on my 2016 Fuse Pro. But some of the trails I ride ask for more than the stock 120mm Reba RC3 shock can seemingly deliver. On really rocky downhill sections I consistently use the entire range of travel and my hands, arms & shoulders take a licking.

So far, I've experimented with various air pressures on the shock, that's the extent of it. Should I take it in for a service/tuning? Or should I consider a replacement fork that is plusher and has more travel? If I go with a replacement shock, will a 150mm travel shock upset the geometry of the Fuse?


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## borre mtb (Sep 29, 2018)

On my fuse I have the standaard x7 derailleur, I would like to change this for a shimano 11speed derailleur. 

Does anyone know which derailleur hanger I need to use for this?


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

overmyhead said:


> Love the ride on my 2016 Fuse Pro. But some of the trails I ride ask for more than the stock 120mm Reba RC3 shock can seemingly deliver. On really rocky downhill sections I consistently use the entire range of travel and my hands, arms & shoulders take a licking.
> 
> So far, I've experimented with various air pressures on the shock, that's the extent of it. Should I take it in for a service/tuning? Or should I consider a replacement fork that is plusher and has more travel? If I go with a replacement shock, will a 150mm travel shock upset the geometry of the Fuse?


I've got a 140mm Pike on mine and love it.


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

overmyhead said:


> Love the ride on my 2016 Fuse Pro. But some of the trails I ride ask for more than the stock 120mm Reba RC3 shock can seemingly deliver. On really rocky downhill sections I consistently use the entire range of travel and my hands, arms & shoulders take a licking.
> 
> So far, I've experimented with various air pressures on the shock, that's the extent of it. Should I take it in for a service/tuning? Or should I consider a replacement fork that is plusher and has more travel? If I go with a replacement shock, will a 150mm travel shock upset the geometry of the Fuse?


I'm willing to bet 150mm would begin to approach excessive slacking of the head and seat tube angles, maybe fork trail too, depending on preferred sag. I bet you could get away with it, but I think there are probably "safer" solutions; it'd suck to drop the cash on 150mm only to find it made steering wonky on smooth and twisty terrain.

I'd go with 130-140mm, and go with something that has adjustable progression (think, Bottomless Tokens, Ramp Control, etc.) which helps a ton in keeping a plush feel while avoiding bottom out.

MRP's Ribbon and Ribbon Coil forks have Ramp Control, and, on top of that, easily adjustable travel (add/remove internal spacers), so you could try 150mm, but shorten it if it didn't work.


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## teethandnails (Sep 16, 2013)

Just added a 160mm Ohlins RXF36 Air fork & SRAM Code R brakes. Also went tubeless. 29.1lbs w/o pedals or bottlecages. Down Country AF...


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

I'm running a Suntour auron 150mm only one rode on it and it feels great.. size matters 

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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

yrrekr said:


> I'm willing to bet 150mm would begin to approach excessive slacking of the head and seat tube angles, maybe fork trail too, depending on preferred sag. I bet you could get away with it, but I think there are probably "safer" solutions; it'd suck to drop the cash on 150mm only to find it made steering wonky on smooth and twisty terrain.
> 
> I'd go with 130-140mm, and go with something that has adjustable progression (think, Bottomless Tokens, Ramp Control, etc.) which helps a ton in keeping a plush feel while avoiding bottom out.
> 
> MRP's Ribbon and Ribbon Coil forks have Ramp Control, and, on top of that, easily adjustable travel (add/remove internal spacers), so you could try 150mm, but shorten it if it didn't work.


With Rockshox forks you can shorten the travel by changing out the air spring. My bike shop charged me $100 for that.


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

TNTall said:


> With Rockshox forks you can shorten the travel by changing out the air spring. My bike shop charged me $100 for that.


On the MRP Ribbon, the spacers necessary come with new forks or are available online for $3. It's a very easy DIY job- remove the lowers, remove a snap ring, pull the air piston, swap spacers, reverse; only 2ish steps more than changing the oil in the lowers, fully reversible and tweakable in 5,10, and 20mm increments. Pretty cool.


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## teethandnails (Sep 16, 2013)

Bassballer150 said:


> I'm running a Suntour auron 150mm only one rode on it and it feels great.. size matters
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My HT angle calculates to 65.43 with the 160mm Ohlins. Still climbs well!


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

What bleed kit are you guys using on the trp’s? Also going to switch the rear rotor to 180 but space seems tight on the mount and tube above it, have you guys done this upgrade?


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## Stickman181 (Aug 27, 2018)

Bought my Fuse 8 weeks and 590km ago. Been back to the shop 6 times, firstly to headset tightened up, (3 times) then, get rear wheel bearings tightened up, then the Drive side crank arm nearly fell of on the trial, then the BB got crunchy and creaked, then the rear mech hanger creaking, and yesterday had to get the BB replaced (with wheels manufacturing) cos after 1 muddy puddle ride, the bearings finally were too full of grit and dragged badly. The PF30 BB is a pile of crud.

Anyway, the LBS put the wrong BB in, the Wheels MFG PF30 press in one, instead of the the screw together one I wanted! UGH.

The bike shreds, and smashes my local trails that are more rocky than a lunar landscape, but everything needs constant adjustment and cleaning and re-greasing. Even after the LBS regreased headset, both wheel bearings, and replaced BB, something was creaking. I can't stop this thing making a creaking groaning racquet! 

Talk about love hate! And I've only done 600kms! Seriously considering selling it and buying something else - Mostly due to that absolute abomination of a BB. Utter rubbish. I can't keep the rear mech shifting well either for more than 1 or 2 rides.

Anyone else having their fuse self destruct every ride?


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## adaycj (Sep 30, 2009)

Stickman181 said:


> Bought my Fuse 8 weeks and 590km ago. Been back to the shop 6 times, firstly to headset tightened up, (3 times) then, get rear wheel bearings tightened up, then the Drive side crank arm nearly fell of on the trial, then the BB got crunchy and creaked, then the rear mech hanger creaking, and yesterday had to get the BB replaced (with wheels manufacturing) cos after 1 muddy puddle ride, the bearings finally were too full of grit and dragged badly. The PF30 BB is a pile of crud.
> 
> Anyway, the LBS put the wrong BB in, the Wheels MFG PF30 press in one, instead of the the screw together one I wanted! UGH.
> 
> ...


My son just finished his second full race season on this bike. He made the whole season on the Wheels thread together BB. It is the best option in this case. It is best in particular case because you can tighten the snot out of it and just swap the cartridge bearings when normal maintenance is required. The headset is junk, no amount of lube will fix the poorly machined parts. My son's head set fell apart in pieces on the floor during the first service. And, no not the normal pieces parts they are made of. That was at about 200 miles from new.

If the rear hub is still the crappy "it's a cartridge bearing"; oops it's really a cheap example of a ball and cone hub ... it will always be loose. A new hub is the only real permanent solution.

My son loves his Fuse. After a successful racing season, I asked if he wanted another new bike. He is now really too tall for his Fuse, and it was a long road getting the defective parts sorted during the first months. He said he wants to try to make it another year, and he loves his bike.

I can't tell you the defects you mentioned aren't real, and I can't tell you there is an easy fix. I can say it might be worth it to sort them out since you already own the bike. It really does rip once the defects are sorted.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

Stickman181 said:


> Bought my Fuse 8 weeks and 590km ago. Been back to the shop 6 times, firstly to headset tightened up, (3 times) then, get rear wheel bearings tightened up, then the Drive side crank arm nearly fell of on the trial, then the BB got crunchy and creaked, then the rear mech hanger creaking, and yesterday had to get the BB replaced (with wheels manufacturing) cos after 1 muddy puddle ride, the bearings finally were too full of grit and dragged badly. The PF30 BB is a pile of crud.
> 
> Anyway, the LBS put the wrong BB in, the Wheels MFG PF30 press in one, instead of the the screw together one I wanted! UGH.
> 
> ...


The bearings spec'd are **** and easily replaceable. The hub is garbage and just needs to be tossed. Rebuild to another hub. The RD not staying in tune is something that needs a closer look. If the LBS put the wrong part on vs what you wanted, they should be correcting it.

It's a good riding bike, just needs to be rebuilt essentially after you get it. No one likes hearing they have to drop more coin on a new bike, but it is what it is. By the time you sell this one (at a loss) and buy something else, you could have bought new bearings, hub, etc and got it solid.


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

[QUOTE I can't keep the rear mech shifting well either for more than 1 or 2 rides.

Anyone else having their fuse self destruct every ride?[/QUOTE]

The rear derailuer mount is very thin and bendy aluminum. Mine has been bent bad once and the replacement needs tweeks now and again. I carry a spare now. The rear hub needs much maintenance. I have greased the crank and headset bearings without further problems. About 1000 miles now. This thing screams on the down hills!


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## Stickman181 (Aug 27, 2018)

Thanks guys. Yes, I love the bike.. it certainly rips the down hills and berms. Smashes the rocky trails I have locally, and stock rims and tyres still holding up good as. Its a better bike than I am rider, but I'm getting better.

Ok, well, I guess, I'll just get the BB sorted for the threaded one as I intended, and keep ridin'. I reckon it'd be evil with a 140mm Fox 36 on it, and a 1x12 eagle set up.
I certainly find I need a higher top gear !

Thanks for the heads up.

I also ordered a Wheels MFG derailleur hanger, but seems I got the wrong one... so have to get another one. Reckon I'll swap it out and keep the OEM one made from cheeze as a spare. I've straighted it twice already, and that's only from rocks hitting it flung from the front wheel!


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

Any one running 29" 2.6" tires on theirs? I want to try the Rekons out, I think they should fit. My rear stock hub is starting to worry me a little.
thanks all


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

hey guys... forgot to mention it here, but my Fuse was featured on the GMBN Tech show a few weeks back in the top builds section.






Seems like there are definitely some people that have had less then stellar experiences with their Fuse Comp or sport models. I didn't have anything fail on my bike prior to making changes or doing mods... although I never felt the brakes were very good. I love the bike though and I'm happy that I spent the money to upgrade it. As many have mentioned above, it definitely loves to rip when going downhill... I also love how the 3" tires dig in a bite when climbing.


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## Stickman181 (Aug 27, 2018)

Sweet ride dude. What BB did you use to go to XT Cranks and chainring? and What wheelset?


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Thanks man... the bottom bracket is a Praxis Works OSBB/ Shimano conversion bracket. I've used Praxis Works bb's on my road bikes for the last 5 years without issue. They work great. The wheel set is an Industry9 BackCountry 450 wheel set. I put my stock wheels through some abuse and they really held up pretty well, all things considered. I read a lot of things on here about people having the rear hub fail on them... mine didn't fail, but I just hated the lack of engagement. I felt like I would turn the cranks almost 1/2 a revolution before they would catch. When you're trying to climb up over some roots and logs and its takes 1/2 a crank before it catches, and then suddenly the power hits hard, its just not ideal. It totally breaks traction on the tire.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

Gave my Fuse some lovin.

OneUp dropper @ 170mm
MRP Ribbon @ 140mm
Roval Traverse Carbons w/ XC tires (purg front, fast trak rear)
Clapped out Eagle (gonna get replaced after winter)
Saint brakes

Down country AF for winter grinding. I'll throw the big tires back on once snow and precip set in this winter....











WMBigs said:


> Any one running 29" 2.6" tires on theirs? I want to try the Rekons out, I think they should fit. My rear stock hub is starting to worry me a little.
> thanks all


Doubt it. At least I don't think it'll fit and give you clearance for much more than a pebble. Pictured is a 2.3 Fast Trak on a 30mm inner rim.


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Lll


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## Toddzilla (Nov 27, 2016)

Picked up a used s-works frame and built it up this week. 

Large s-works frame
Race face turbine cranks
XTR chain/derailleur/shifter
XT brakes/rotors
XX1 11spd cassette
OneUP 150mm dropper
Race face next bars w aeffect stem
Rekon 2.8s on arc 40 rims laced to 350 hubs

26.3 lbs with pedals

The bike is very fun, surprisingly fast and playful.


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## Dirtyrider_fi (Dec 16, 2017)

WMBigs said:


> Any one running 29" 2.6" tires on theirs? I want to try the Rekons out, I think they should fit. My rear stock hub is starting to worry me a little.
> thanks all


I have used Rekon 2,6" few months with 29" Roval Traverse i29 wheels. I tested Panaracer Fat B Nimble 3,0 but it was too wide and touched chainstay in some situations. Same Panaracer fits easily to Manitou Magnum fork and I'm using it cause bigger air space.


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

I have a 2017 stump jumper Carbon comp 650b I got on sale. Love the bike. Want to keep it for a long time ( can't afford the carbon bikes anymore - they've gone up in price astronomically ). So I have been toying with the idea of a 2nd 27.5+ hardtail both for winter riding with less maintenance and more traction as well riding in light snow and using it on trails with less downhill, and for improving my skills. I'm a careful rider and while I've gotten a lot better at technical uphill climbing, I'm still tentative on cornering. The 2019 Fuse expert looks amazing. The geometry is close to my stumpy - just a little more stack and reach and the HT and ST angles are virtually the same. The 2019 expert is speaking to me, love the color and the components are just right ( Eagle NX, and SRAM level brakes ). I upgraded my stumpy to guide RSC's and love them. I believe the SRAM levels have similar performance? If not, the brakes are likely the only upgrade I'd do. My stumpy has the 11 speed SRAM 1x so the Fuse might be cool for me to try out a 1x12 as well. What do you guys think - would I benefit from getting a Fuse to complement my stumpy or would I be wasting $s?


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## jbowland (May 7, 2004)

I actually went from a Fuse Expert Carbon to a Stump Jumper Expert. I loved the Fuse but that carbon frame is HARSH. Overall I am happier on the stumpy and I am less beat up after a long ride. I was running my Fuse about 80% of the time with 29" wheels and tires, I just didn't really like the slow feel of the 3" 27.5+ tires.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

I have the new stumpy and the old fuse expert, like your situation but flip flopped. I ride them both equally. I can't seem to sell the fuse because it's just too damn fun. For tamer trails, gravel grinds, and urban riding (commuting) I pick the the fuse every time because it's way more fun for the application. Also, the 3 inch tires in the snow at 10 psi are a whole new kind of fun.


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## jbowland (May 7, 2004)

I still have the 27.5+ wheels and tires and have played with them on the stumpy and it's not to bad, even fun at times. I hate to say it but I'm shopping for a real XC killer like an Epic hard tail or similar carbon hard tail, less burly and much lighter than the Fuse. I never weighed my Fuse but I would bet it was close to 30 lbs, that's with carbon bars and some high quality 29" wheels...


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Replaced the BB and threw on some old RF Aeffect cranks









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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

jbowland said:


> I actually went from a Fuse Expert Carbon to a Stump Jumper Expert. I loved the Fuse but that carbon frame is HARSH. Overall I am happier on the stumpy and I am less beat up after a long ride. I was running my Fuse about 80% of the time with 29" wheels and tires, I just didn't really like the slow feel of the 3" 27.5+ tires.


Thanks -- I mostly plan to use it as a 27.5+


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## dmount (Nov 9, 2018)

I have a stock 2016 Fuse Expert and would like to upgrade to the Sram Eagle NX/GX groupset. Does anyone know if there is a free hub body that I can use to convert to an XD, or convert to a Shimano and use the NX casset? I have not been able to find anything that says it works with the Stout rear hub.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

NX will use your same freehub, it's a Shimano driver on the 2016 expert. If you want to go GX I would upgrade the wheel first, specialized freehubs are not cheap if you want to switch to XD driver.


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## Mijais (Nov 10, 2018)

Hi guys, I have a fuse comp 2016 size S 110mm of travel stock (I open the fork to see this) with 67° head angle and I change the raidon by a Aion 150mm of travel. If the size are S, it's to much travel for the frame? or it's ok? u recommend down to 140 or 130mm? (I'm from Chile so my eng are poor, sorry for that)


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

" I'm still tentative on cornering." 

My 2016 Fuse Expert is really confidence inspiring in the turns. The Purgatory's grip great. The bike is a little slower than my 29er until the trail turns down hill.
Make sure it is the proper size though.


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

Mijais said:


> Hi guys, I have a fuse comp 2016 size S 110mm of travel stock (I open the fork to see this) with 67° head angle and I change the raidon by a Aion 150mm of travel. If the size are S, it's to much travel for the frame? or it's ok? u recommend down to 140 or 130mm? (I'm from Chile so my eng are poor, sorry for that)


I'd be worried that 150mm would affect the head tube angle enough to make the bike feel strange. You may be able to use more sag to help with this, but this may make the fork work incorrectly for your weight.

Perhaps a bigger issue is that the fork will handle hits that the rear wheel can't. The bike and your body will still be limited by the rigid rear triangle and your skills. You'll still be "limited" to hard tail terrain.

If the 150mm is a lot less expensive than 120-130mm for some reason, then you could probably make 150mm work. Otherwise, I'd go 120-130mm. Or just ride the 110mm.


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

Mijais said:


> Hi guys, I have a fuse comp 2016 size S 110mm of travel stock (I open the fork to see this) with 67° head angle and I change the raidon by a Aion 150mm of travel. If the size are S, it's to much travel for the frame? or it's ok? u recommend down to 140 or 130mm? (I'm from Chile so my eng are poor, sorry for that)


I called Specialized yesterday about this since I may end up having a spare fork and they said warranty is only covered for up to 130mm on the Fuse frames.


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

WMBigs said:


> " I'm still tentative on cornering."
> 
> My 2016 Fuse Expert is really confidence inspiring in the turns. The Purgatory's grip great. The bike is a little slower than my 29er until the trail turns down hill.
> Make sure it is the proper size though.


Thanks that's good to know and what I was hoping


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Mijais said:


> Hi guys, I have a fuse comp 2016 size S 110mm of travel stock (I open the fork to see this) with 67° head angle and I change the raidon by a Aion 150mm of travel. If the size are S, it's to much travel for the frame? or it's ok? u recommend down to 140 or 130mm? (I'm from Chile so my eng are poor, sorry for that)


Yo también tengo una fuse medida chica y le puse un Suntour Auron 150mm y estoy satisfecho como jala, se siente súper bien

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mijais (Nov 10, 2018)

Mtbvkk said:


> I called Specialized yesterday about this since I may end up having a spare fork and they said warranty is only covered for up to 130mm on the Fuse frames.


I put 65 psi to my weight and this give me a sag about 30% (45mm of the travel) And it's so softly... But it doesn't a big problem to me to reduce the travel down withs spacers 150 to 130mm if specialized said that


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## Mijais (Nov 10, 2018)

quedó muy rica con sag de 30% pero la dejare en 130 para no tener problemas


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## Mijais (Nov 10, 2018)

Mtbvkk said:


> I called Specialized yesterday about this since I may end up having a spare fork and they said warranty is only covered for up to 130mm on the Fuse frames.





Bassballer150 said:


> Yo también tengo una fuse medida chica y le puse un Suntour Auron 150mm y estoy satisfecho como jala, se siente súper bien
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


buena bro, yo la deje con sag de 30% y quedo muy rica, suave a joder y no fondeo en mis saltos de siempre ?


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

do I have to get fat bike fenders for the fuse, like this one for it to fit?

https://www.backcountry.com/mucky-n...Hl5AFKkQ28rZVgMRPxEy7bpyB9vPGNPxoCpzEQAvD_BwE


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

The fuse uses a 29er fork, so you will not need a fat bike fender. I bought a Huck Norris which comes with a fender and I use that. I highly recommend a Huck Norris in the rear, wish I would have put one in when I first got the bike.


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

[email protected] said:


> The fuse uses a 29er fork, so you will not need a fat bike fender. I bought a Huck Norris which comes with a fender and I use that. I highly recommend a Huck Norris in the rear, wish I would have put one in when I first got the bike.


Thank you!


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## Dopaminer_09 (Oct 23, 2009)

How will this bike do on extended pavement rides?

I have a new Stumpjumper, which I have been loving, but my usual ride to the trail which is 10 miles on pavement and 1000ft of elevation gain is a slog on the 150mm full suspension and 2.6" tires.

I briefly test rode a Fuse, and it felt pretty fun. I am wondering if it could be the bike for me when my ride is going to include significant pavement miles. I wonder about the 3" tires though. Will those feel slow on pavement? If I swapped them out, would 2.3" replacement tires work well on the Fuse?

Any thoughts? Thanks!


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

I ride my fuse as a daily commuter consisting of 16 - 40 miles of pavement, gravel, and rocky technical trails. I put a 2.8 Specialized fast track on the rear and run a 3.0 Purgatory on the front with the fork locked out unless I am on true single track. The bike doesn't feel slow and I am constantly getting Strava top tens both on and off road. It's much faster (per starva) than my stumpy when I mix a good bit of pavement with trails. I'm going to put a fast track 2.8 on the front of the fuse in the next few weeks and race some marathons on it. 

On another note, I demoed an epic Evo expert to possibly replace the fuse. I am sticking with the fuse.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

Slap some 29er wheels on with trail tires (Purg or Ground Control on front, ground control or fast trak on the back) and get after it. 2.3" Purg/Fast Trak combo on 29er wheels is my XC and gravel/asphalt setup. 

I wouldn't put 27.5x2.3" tires on the stock rims or the bike at all. Prob be great on a slalom track. Sucks everywhere else (Too low).


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## Stickman181 (Aug 27, 2018)

Dopaminer, I often ride my Fuse Comp on 20+ mile road rides when I need to spin out my legs. To be honest, the tyres are fine, and I just pump them up to say 20psi. I normally run them 16/18psi F/R for rocky and normal bush trails.

The only issue I have with the FUSE on road rides is the lack of top end speed. The 28T chainring means I can only pedal comfortably to 32kph, and 35kph with some leg induced bounce. For more road and higher top speed, a bigger chainring is DEFINITELY required.


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

My new 2019 expert pre and post first ride and wash. Beauty of the color doesn’t come through in the photos. LBS gave me 10% off. Great value for the components this bike comes with ( eagle NX, SRAM level 4 piston front brake, dropper post ). Loving it so far. While ride felt a bit harsh it’s because pressure is high in the forks and need to dial it in as well as fine tuning tire pressure. I have tires at 15 psi and cornering was amazing as well as the ability to go over anything. It was a new feeling going over wet root gardens with much less worry, as well as just pushing through without dabbing when getting stuck. Climbing with 12 speeds was so easy. Amazing bike!


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Is that the Gloss East Sierra color way?


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## Dopaminer_09 (Oct 23, 2009)

Thanks for posting! This is the exact bike that I am considering, and my local shop has a deal that ends today. I've been on the fence, and the color that I've only seen in pictures has been unimpressive. Good to hear from you that it looks better in person.



Mtbvkk said:


> My new 2019 expert pre and post first ride and wash. Beauty of the color doesn't come through in the photos. LBS gave me 10% off. Great value for the components this bike comes with ( eagle NX, SRAM level 4 piston front brake, dropper post ). Loving it so far. While ride felt a bit harsh it's because pressure is high in the forks and need to dial it in as well as fine tuning tire pressure. I have tires at 15 psi and cornering was amazing as well as the ability to go over anything. It was a new feeling going over wet root gardens with much less worry, as well as just pushing through without dabbing when getting stuck. Climbing with 12 speeds was so easy. Amazing bike!


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> I ride my fuse as a daily commuter consisting of 16 - 40 miles of pavement, gravel, and rocky technical trails. I put a 2.8 Specialized fast track on the rear and run a 3.0 Purgatory on the front with the fork locked out unless I am on true single track. The bike doesn't feel slow and I am constantly getting Strava top tens both on and off road. It's much faster (per starva) than my stumpy when I mix a good bit of pavement with trails. I'm going to put a fast track 2.8 on the front of the fuse in the next few weeks and race some marathons on it.
> 
> On another note, I demoed an epic Evo expert to possibly replace the fuse. I am sticking with the fuse.


It's like you read my mind.......considering replacing my Fuse Comp Carbon with an Epic EVO. How was your demo on the EVO? I try to convince myself to sell the Fuse, but I can't really convince myself to do it.


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

“I've been on the fence, and the color that I've only seen in pictures has been unimpressive.”

Cool you’re looking at the exact same bike! I like the color a lot but color is personal taste. It’s definitely better in person than photos.


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## twodownzero (Dec 27, 2017)

Bassballer150 said:


> What bleed kit are you guys using on the trp's? Also going to switch the rear rotor to 180 but space seems tight on the mount and tube above it, have you guys done this upgrade?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I used a cheap Shimano bleeder from Amazon. I don't use Shimano brakes, but I bought it because my friends do. The funnel and a syringe with a piece of tube attached is really all you need, the remainder with the little drain thing is nice to avoid making a mess.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

tjkm said:


> It's like you read my mind.......considering replacing my Fuse Comp Carbon with an Epic EVO. How was your demo on the EVO? I try to convince myself to sell the Fuse, but I can't really convince myself to do it.


I did a bike demo at an Enduro event and timed my ride on two of the very pedally stages. The Epic Evo felt really fast, faster than my stumpy. However, the times showed that the stumpy was faster. The geometry of the Epic Evo just feels more like a sports car, therefore feels faster. I also did a lot of long climbs and the Epic really shines on the climbs, but not worth almost 6k (expert carbon) for a 27.5 pound bike that feels like it climbs only slightly better than my Fuse.

For comparison, My Fuse is set up with a 140mm pike, roval traverse 38mm wheels, and Specialized fast track 2.8 tires (just put one on the front today). I will say that the tires corner almost as good as the 3.0 Purgatory tires and accelerate much faster. Compared to the Epic Evo, both the Fuse and the Epic descend about the same. The Fuse accelerates slightly better and corners way way better. The Epic does have a slight advantage on the long climbs due to the more efficient geometry/riding position. Both bikes are great bikes that blur the line between trail and XC. If the price was better, I might consider replacing the Fuse. The Fuse is just such a good value for what it is.


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## Dopaminer_09 (Oct 23, 2009)

Is it a tan/off-white color? 
Any idea how much your bike weighs?



Mtbvkk said:


> "I've been on the fence, and the color that I've only seen in pictures has been unimpressive."
> 
> Cool you're looking at the exact same bike! I like the color a lot but color is personal taste. It's definitely better in person than photos.


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

Dopaminer_09 said:


> Is it a tan/off-white color?
> Any idea how much your bike weighs?


It's a tan color. Deeper than off-white. Don't know exact weight, but my stump jumper is carbon and I'd say this is just about the same weight based on picking it up and putting it in my truck. The Reba fork is a lot lighter than the Pike and equivalent forks. So I think despite the Aluminum frame, not having a rear shock and some lighter components makes it about the same weight as a carbon FS.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

I recently saw a 2019 Comp in the storm grey/rocket red color way at my local shop and I really liked that color in person... much better than it shows on the website. It also looks like they've up the component spec on the comp model while keeping the price point the same... Rockshox Recon fork now and SRAM Level brakes.... that's an improvement from the Suntour fork and TRP brakes that came on the 2015 Comp I have.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

Very helpful. Thanks!! I will keep my Fuse at least through the spring/summer 2019 and go from there.


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

CrankAddictRich said:


> Is that the Gloss East Sierra color way?


Didn't see this earlier, but yes it's the Gloss East Sierra


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

Meant to ask earlier, which Stumpy were you riding? I am also interested in the Stumpjumper ST. I am looking for the unicorn, 1 bike quiver.

I do a few xc races, ride steep and rocky as well as smooth, buff single track. Interested in FS due to some lower back pain, hopeful for less impact on the ol' back. Every now and then I take that unexpected hit on the Fuse that is just harsh due to the hard tail.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

tjkm said:


> Meant to ask earlier, which Stumpy were you riding? I am also interested in the Stumpjumper ST. I am looking for the unicorn, 1 bike quiver.
> 
> I do a few xc races, ride steep and rocky as well as smooth, buff single track. Interested in FS due to some lower back pain, hopeful for less impact on the ol' back. Every now and then I take that unexpected hit on the Fuse that is just harsh due to the hard tail.


I am riding the 2019 stumpjumper comp carbon 140/150 mm travel version. It's the XT build which I guess they replaced with the NX Eagle build. I think the ST version would make an excellent one bike fits all. It could be ran in the high position with some light tires for the XC races and the low position with some big meats for the Enduro races. I opted for the longer travel version to be used mainly as an Enduro race bike. It makes a damn good trail bike, and would probably do alright as an XC bike in the high position with some light tires. But, changing the "flip chip" and tires is alot of work. So the bike always lives with 2.5 agressive tires in the low position.

I must say, after multiple days of agressive trail riding with the Fuse my back gets agrivated... Not the case with the Stumpy.

Also, the only difference between the ST and longer travel stumpy is the fork, shock, and the "horse shoe" link. I watched a YouTube video of a guy that uses his Stumpy as a true unicorn.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

Link to video explaining the ST to longer travel conversion.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> I am riding the 2019 stumpjumper comp carbon 140/150 mm travel version. It's the XT build which I guess they replaced with the NX Eagle build. I think the ST version would make an excellent one bike fits all. It could be ran in the high position with some light tires for the XC races and the low position with some big meats for the Enduro races. I opted for the longer travel version to be used mainly as an Enduro race bike. It makes a damn good trail bike, and would probably do alright as an XC bike in the high position with some light tires. But, changing the "flip chip" and tires is alot of work. So the bike always lives with 2.5 agressive tires in the low position.
> 
> I must say, after multiple days of agressive trail riding with the Fuse my back gets agrivated... Not the case with the Stumpy.
> 
> Also, the only difference between the ST and longer travel stumpy is the fork, shock, and the "horse shoe" link. I watched a YouTube video of a guy that uses his Stumpy as a true unicorn.


Awesome info. Sounds like you have all of your bases covered between the Fuse and Stumpy. I think I need to demo the ST and go from there. Glad to hear your input on the 140/150 Stumpjumper too. I should probably ride both to get a better sense of each bike.


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## TheNatureBoy (Aug 7, 2017)

I’m looking @ the comp 2019 - I can get it &’$1499 

Vs the SC Chameleon and Honzo 

Any thoughts on the 19’s? 

Why would I love this bike over the others ?

Thx


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

TheNatureBoy said:


> I'm looking @ the comp 2019 - I can get it &'$1499
> 
> Vs the SC Chameleon and Honzo
> 
> ...


I think that's a pretty good price on the 2019 Comp....

Its kind of hard to say which of the three bikes you'd "love" as that depends on a lot of things that can be personal preference including the look of the bike and color combos offered, maybe the perception of the brand personally and even how the differences in the geometry might suit your riding conditions and preferences. On the surface, they're all 27.5+ hard tails, but there are probably slight differences n the geometry that will make for handling differences on trail and which of those you'll love... I think only you can know that by riding them.

Looking at the bikes from a component/price perspective... I'm assuming you're looking at the these three models.

2019 Fuse Comp $1499 (MSRP $1650)
SC Chameleon D+ $1799
Kona Big Honzo $1699

The retail prices are all pretty similar, but the discount on the Fuse Comp changes things a little bit... comparing them, they all come with the Rockshox Recon RL fork. The Fuse and Chameleon comes with SRAM Level brakes and the Kona has Shimano brakes. The Fuse and Kona both come with Trans-x dropper posts, while the SC does not... to get a dropper in the SC, you have to move up to the R+ at $2400 which brings a Raceface dropper as well as some additional things like better fork and brakes etc. It looks like the wheels on the SC and the Kona are the same and are probably better than the stock wheels on the comp. In the past, the wheel/hub combo on the Fuse comp has been a problem area.... not sure if they've fixed those issues for 2019. Looking at the frames, the Kona doesn't have internal cable routing... that can be a + or - depending on outlook. Internal cable routing cleans the bike up and looks better but can be of a pain to work on. The SC can be swapped around to run geared or SS and I'm sure the Fuse and Kona can as well, but not without running some sort of chain tension set up.

I'd say they are all pretty awesome bikes and which one is bets comes down to what you value... Some people will say that brand or color etc, shouldn't make a difference, but to me.. they do. I have to like the looks of the bike I'm riding. I, personally like the Fuse best, but the SC Chameleon is really nice as well and the colors this year are pretty rad... heck, I was even a fan of the older green/purple model and it was a hard decision for me. The Kona, IMO, isn't as nice looking as the others. I just don't like the curvy down tube, but YMMV.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

The Fuse and the Chameleon are going to ride pretty similarly, but the Honzo has a longer wheel base/longer reach. The Fuse/chameleon will feel more playful while the honzo will feel more stable at higher speeds. For these reasons, the Honzo will not be as fun doing a parking lot ride.


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## TheNatureBoy (Aug 7, 2017)

CrankAddictRich said:


> I think that's a pretty good price on the 2019 Comp....
> 
> Its kind of hard to say which of the three bikes you'd "love" as that depends on a lot of things that can be personal preference including the look of the bike and color combos offered, maybe the perception of the brand personally and even how the differences in the geometry might suit your riding conditions and preferences. On the surface, they're all 27.5+ hard tails, but there are probably slight differences n the geometry that will make for handling differences on trail and which of those you'll love... I think only you can know that by riding them.
> 
> ...


Excellent breakdown !

I find all the base models have almost all same specs & components .

Hell that CUJO 2 is $800 and has same exact specs as SC Chameleon & Big Honzo.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## TheNatureBoy (Aug 7, 2017)

[email protected] said:


> The Fuse and the Chameleon are going to ride pretty similarly, but the Honzo has a longer wheel base/longer reach. The Fuse/chameleon will feel more playful while the honzo will feel more stable at higher speeds. For these reasons, the Honzo will not be as fun doing a parking lot ride.


My concern on the Fuse is that hub issue ...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

They now use the "specialized sealed cartridge bearing" hubs on the fuse Comp and up. That's the same hub that comes on the expert model bikes that cost 5k plus. They are good hubs with 22 POE, I have two sets one is over a year old and still runs like new.

The crap hubs were the loose ball stout hubs that didn't work worth a crap. Mine was in the shop 4 times for those **** hubs.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

TheNatureBoy said:


> Excellent breakdown !
> 
> I find all the base models have almost all same specs & components .
> 
> ...


I'm not sure where you see the Cujo 2 at $800, but it seems that the MSRP is $1300. Looking at the specs though, I don't see that comparing favorably to the bikes you listed.. It has a Rockshox Judy fork, not equal to the Recon on the other bikes... and it seems maybe the components are a 1/2 step down.

The Cujo 1 is closer to the bikes you listed, but so is the price.


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## TheNatureBoy (Aug 7, 2017)

CrankAddictRich said:


> I'm not sure where you see the Cujo 2 at $800, but it seems that the MSRP is $1300. Looking at the specs though, I don't see that comparing favorably to the bikes you listed.. It has a Rockshox Judy fork, not equal to the Recon on the other bikes... and it seems maybe the components are a 1/2 step down.
> 
> The Cujo 1 is closer to the bikes you listed, but so is the price.
> 
> ...


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

TheNatureBoy said:


> https://www.rei.com/product/124759/cannondale-cujo-2-275-bike-2018
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


That's cheap... but as I stated, the parts list on that bike don't really compare to the bikes you're also looking at. The fork, the brakes, etc... all cheaper. Granted, at $800 you've got a lot of money to play around with if your ultimate budget is $1500... You could upgrade wheels or fork etc.


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

Loving my new fuse. First ride felt harsh with both tires at 15 psi and too much pressure in the forks. On my ride today I dropped the rear to 13 and front to 14 and it felt great. One issue is I’m going through most of my travel without doing any jumps or major drops, just on technical trail features. I set the sag after a harsh first ride and it felt pretty good so I didn’t have any issues riding, just worried about bottoming out on tougher trails. I’m considering going to 130m with default bottomless tokens. For 120mm Rockshox ships it with no tokens. Anyone have any suggestions?


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

I'm still waiting to get my Fuse 29er out. Roval Traverse with 2.6 Nobby Nics. I loved the ride with the 27.5. This should be fun as well. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

Mtbvkk said:


> Loving my new fuse. First ride felt harsh with both tires at 15 psi and too much pressure in the forks. On my ride today I dropped the rear to 13 and front to 14 and it felt great. One issue is I'm going through most of my travel without doing any jumps or major drops, just on technical trail features. I set the sag after a harsh first ride and it felt pretty good so I didn't have any issues riding, just worried about bottoming out on tougher trails. I'm considering going to 130m with default bottomless tokens. For 120mm Rockshox ships it with no tokens. Anyone have any suggestions?


I don't know what your weight is, but for me at 175 pounds with 3 inch purgs I run 13psi front and 16 psi rear. I had to install an extra volume spacer in my pike to keep it from bottoming out hard on big drops. I find hardtails need more volume sapcers than full suspensions due to weight moving forward when the bike compresses vs weight moving more straight down on the full suspension compression. Some call it the stapler effect.


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

[email protected] said:


> I don't know what your weight is, but for me at 175 pounds with 3 inch purgs I run 13psi front and 16 psi rear. I had to install an extra volume spacer in my pike to keep it from bottoming out hard on big drops. I find hardtails need more volume sapcers than full suspensions due to weight moving forward when the bike compresses vs weight moving more straight down on the full suspension compression. Some call it the stapler effect.


Thanks, that makes sense. I'm about 175lbs too. You're running a pike on a fuse? Cool!


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

Mtbvkk said:


> Thanks, that makes sense. I'm about 175lbs too. You're running a pike on a fuse? Cool!


I'm running a 140mm pike at 25% sag with no spacers under the stem. This keeps the handlebar height about the same as with a 120mm fork. You can see in the picture where the O-ring shows the travel used for most trail rides, the final 3/4 of an inch is only used on big hits and I don't ever feel a hard bottom out. With the stock volume spacers I could always make the for bottom out with 20% sag by just throwing my weight down on the fork as hard as I could.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

I'm 165-170 pounds, running a 120mm Pike w/ 3" tires on Industry9 BC450 wheels. I run 16psi front and 18psi rear. I'm running about 70 psi in the fork with an extra volume spacer and I'm really happy with how it all feels. I suppose I could try running the tires down a little lower given what you guys are saying.


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

[email protected] said:


> I'm running a 140mm pike at 25% sag with no spacers under the stem. This keeps the handlebar height about the same as with a 120mm fork. You can see in the picture where the O-ring shows the travel used for most trail rides, the final 3/4 of an inch is only used on big hits and I don't ever feel a hard bottom out. With the stock volume spacers I could always make the for bottom out with 20% sag by just throwing my weight down on the fork as hard as I could.


So you have stock bottomless tokens but sag set to 25%?


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

CrankAddictRich said:


> I'm 165-170 pounds, running a 120mm Pike w/ 3" tires on Industry9 BC450 wheels. I run 16psi front and 18psi rear. I'm running about 70 psi in the fork with an extra volume spacer and I'm really happy with how it all feels. I suppose I could try running the tires down a little lower given what you guys are saying.


Yes, the tire pressure is key with these tires. The rear especially, since it's the only thing acting substituting for a suspension. 2-3 psi seems to make a huge difference.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

Mtbvkk said:


> Yes, the tire pressure is key with these tires. The rear especially, since it's the only thing acting substituting for a suspension. 2-3 psi seems to make a huge difference.


Yep, I notice a huge difference btwn 16 vs 18 psi in rear. I've settled on 16 as my standard.
Now, I'm experimenting with the front, which I guess will be above 16.
I'm 170lbs.

I am surprised how much I love my Fuse.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

Mtbvkk said:


> So you have stock bottomless tokens but sag set to 25%?


The fork came stock with 2 grey spacers, I now have 2 red spacers and one grey for a total of three. The red are slightly larger, so it's like running 3.25 grey spacers.


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## Dopaminer_09 (Oct 23, 2009)

2019 Seat height issue on Medium bike, anyone?

I went to pick-up my new Medium 2019 Fuse Expert today and while adjusting the seat post height in the shop, we found that with the dropper post unit as far down into the seat tube as possible, the fully extended height of the seat was about 1.5" too high for me. I'm 5'10" with a 31" inseam, so my legs are on the short side. However, I imagine that many people who buy this bike in size medium have leg lengths similar to mine or even shorter. It's weird that Specialized would spec a bike such that the seat would be too high for many users. It's a 150mm travel dropper post, so the shop is going to look into having Specialized replace it with a 125mm dropper.

Did anyone else have this issue? If so, I am wondering if you did anything about it. I suppose one option is to just ride with the seat dropped a bit so that it is at the right pedaling height. It's a bit inconvenient to do that, but not massively so, so I wonder if anyone does that.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

Dopaminer_09 said:


> 2019 Seat height issue on Medium bike, anyone?
> 
> I went to pick-up my new Medium 2019 Fuse Expert today and while adjusting the seat post height in the shop, we found that with the dropper post unit as far down into the seat tube as possible, the fully extended height of the seat was about 1.5" too high for me. I'm 5'10" with a 31" inseam, so my legs are on the short side. However, I imagine that many people who buy this bike in size medium have leg lengths similar to mine or even shorter. It's weird that Specialized would spec a bike such that the seat would be too high for many users. It's a 150mm travel dropper post, so the shop is going to look into having Specialized replace it with a 125mm dropper.
> 
> Did anyone else have this issue? If so, I am wondering if you did anything about it. I suppose one option is to just ride with the seat dropped a bit so that it is at the right pedaling height. It's a bit inconvenient to do that, but not massively so, so I wonder if anyone does that.


Similar situation w/ my 2019 Fuse, which I absolutely love. I'm going to kluge it with fishing line tied to seat and seat binder bolt to set a max.
I think I read that solution on one of the boards here.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Interesting... I just took a look at the specs on the website and it seems that the small bikes come with a 120mm dropper and all of the other sizes come with a 150mm dropper. Those numbers didn't seem to match up with what I was recalling for my bike, so I pulled up the specs for the 2015 Comp that I'm on and sure enough... wildly different. The smalls came with 80mm dropper while the other sizes came with 100mm droppers.


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## J-RO4 (Sep 20, 2011)

I had the same issue 150mm dropper on large frame was to much. LBS swapped out a better 100mm dropper at no cost.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

My 2018 Comp Carbon, size M has a 100ml dropper. I did not know they changed for 2019?


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## Dopaminer_09 (Oct 23, 2009)

Did you find that with your new 100mm dropper, the absolute bottom height of the seat changed? The shop told me that with switching out the 150mm dropper for a 120mm, the seat won't drop as low (in it's lowest position).

I picked up my new bike today and will ride it until Specialized sends in a 120mm dropper to the shop for replacement.



J-RO4 said:


> I had the same issue 150mm dropper on large frame was to much. LBS swapped out a better 100mm dropper at no cost.


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## J-RO4 (Sep 20, 2011)

The seat won't drop as low as a 150mm because it has 30mm less travel, but it still utilizes the fully allowable space to drop to the bottom. What changed is with the 150mm dropper I had the post all the way down to the dropper collar and now I have about 20mm of seat tube showing below the collar, but dropper post still uses the whole range



Dopaminer_09 said:


> Did you find that with your new 100mm dropper, the absolute bottom height of the seat changed? The shop told me that with switching out the 150mm dropper for a 120mm, the seat won't drop as low (in it's lowest position).
> 
> I picked up my new bike today and will ride it until Specialized sends in a 120mm dropper to the shop for replacement.


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## Dopaminer_09 (Oct 23, 2009)

Thanks for the reply. Right now, with my 150mm dropper post in the fully extended position, the seat is just about 30mm too high for my legs. So hopefully that means that when I get the 120mm dropper installed, the amount of seat tube showing will be about the same as was showing for the 150mm dropper.



Dopaminer_09 said:


> Did you find that with your new 100mm dropper, the absolute bottom height of the seat changed? The shop told me that with switching out the 150mm dropper for a 120mm, the seat won't drop as low (in it's lowest position).
> 
> I picked up my new bike today and will ride it until Specialized sends in a 120mm dropper to the shop for replacement.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I just ordered a 2018 Comp carbon. Since we are talking about seat post lenghts. Can some one measure center of spindle to top of seat collar if you get a min? I would really like a 150mm dropper and want to see if it will fit me. Also does anyone know the stock comp carbon weight? I can only find 28.8" for the carbon expert. Thanks all! I cant wait to get her out...


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Those bikes are crap. You're not going to like it. 


Gonzo 1971 said:


> I just ordered a 2018 Comp carbon. Since we are talking about seat post lenghts. Can some one measure center of spindle to top of seat collar if you get a min? I would really like a 150mm dropper and want to see if it will fit me. Also does anyone know the stock comp carbon weight? I can only find 28.8" for the carbon expert. Thanks all! I cant wait to get her out...


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Your right. I cancelled my order. Thanks for saving me from myself. 😟


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## Dopaminer_09 (Oct 23, 2009)

I have 2019 medium with the 150mm dropper. I'm not sure where the center of the spindle is, but I measured from the top of the seat collar to the rails on my seat and it is just about 9.5 inches with the seat fully extended and the dropper in the seat tube as deep as possible.



Gonzo 1971 said:


> I just ordered a 2018 Comp carbon. Since we are talking about seat post lenghts. Can some one measure center of spindle to top of seat collar if you get a min? I would really like a 150mm dropper and want to see if it will fit me. Also does anyone know the stock comp carbon weight? I can only find 28.8" for the carbon expert. Thanks all! I cant wait to get her out...


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> Your right. I cancelled my order. Thanks for saving me from myself.


Ya, you better keep it coming. I hope you ordered the black/ chameleon! Maybe try 29s on it!

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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I was just kidding.  Black and Chameleon for sure. I have a set of ibis 938 with NN 2.6 ready to go... I think you know me in real life...😜


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I was just kidding.  Black and Chameleon for sure. I have a set of ibis 938 with NN 2.6 ready to go... I think you know me in real life...


Does anybody really know you? LOL. I might come out if winter retirement just so we can ride DTE on a triple Fuse ride!

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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Dopaminer_09 said:


> I have 2019 medium with the 150mm dropper. I'm not sure where the center of the spindle is, but I measured from the top of the seat collar to the rails on my seat and it is just about 9.5 inches with the seat fully extended and the dropper in the seat tube as deep as possible.


Thanks! I mean center of the cranks spindle so I can compare to my current set up. Sounds like it might work.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Flash said:


> Does anybody really know you? LOL. I might come out if winter retirement just so we can ride DTE on a triple Fuse ride!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Yep, your who I thought! ?


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1492544493/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just got this book and it says in the initial chapter on bikes that the author lee McCormack owns a Fuse and how much he loves it with his quiver being a fuse, SJ 6 Fattie, and a regular SJ. Nice testament for us fuse owners.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Lee rocks. I personally adding a fuse as a fun bike light ebough to xc race. Yet with real world geometry. I looked at the epic hard tail. Epic fsr just too pricey at the moment. The fuse is it. With my 29 wheelset. Carbon cranks and a few parts I think I can get around 23.5lbs. We will see. It will be an evolving project. Should be fun!


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I left out the important fact. My other bike is a Stumpy 6fattie. I have 29 and 27.5+. I prefer the 29x2.6 on fast trails. The NN 3.0 are just to vauge at the pressures required to prevent squirm in the rear. Such as my local flow trails. Roughe natural trails the plus wheels shine.


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> Lee rocks. I personally adding a fuse as a fun bike light ebough to xc race. Yet with real world geometry. I looked at the epic hard tail. Epic fsr just too pricey at the moment. The fuse is it. With my 29 wheelset. Carbon cranks and a few parts I think I can get around 23.5lbs. We will see. It will be an evolving project. Should be fun!


Post pics when you have it dialed


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

You know it! I cant wait to get it...


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## Stickman181 (Aug 27, 2018)

My '18 Fuse is still killin' me. I've love the big tyres and the quicker I go the better the bike handles the full on rocky trails I ride at my local 4-5 times a week. 
I keep the drive train, wiper seals, headset area and bb area clean after every ride, but have to CONSTANTLY tighten things like the cranks, rear hub, & headset. 

My bike has done 1400kms (900 miles?) in about 13 weeks, and I've had the bike back to the shop at least 7 times for various things.

Replaced BB already - OEM BB crapped out at 800km, and headset bearings are pretty much gone now. 

Biggest thing now, is that I've been loosing fork travel. I run the fork at 90psi, and I'm 6'3" 82kg. Over the last couple of rides, my fork went from just under 110mm travel (supposed to be 120 mind you - but never could get it to use all travel - and the shop just fobbed me off) to now, after some good runs down some super rocky trails, only having 75mm travel!

I've dropped the air out of the fork, and it defo does NOT go thru anymore travel than 75mm. So back to the shop i'd say, but probably going to have to shell out for a new fork. The Manitou Machette is so flexy and the rebound adjuster has always been either on full or off, so basically useless since day dot. 

The LX mech has also been problematic constantly. It shifts well on the road, but always seems to have a missing gear somewhere random in the shift when off road. I suspect a lot to do with the hanger being made of cheeze, the rear wheel also being super flexy and so pedal torque probably has an impact here. The LX mech also has a LOT of movement about the fixing bolt which can't help.

This is my first bike back from 13 years off riding, and I've progressed a HEAP since having this bike, but, Its giving me the SH"&S with busting all the time. 

I LOVE the bike for my terrain which is just stupid rocky. People think I'm nuts ridin' a HT there, but the big 3.0's smeeash it. They are super skatey on the formed trails though. I run 16/18psi F/R to cope with the rocks and not PF.

Contemplating a new frame like an Orange P7 or Chromag to build up as a bombproof shredder, as I want a propper headset and screw in BB! Also being 6'3" tall, the XL seems a little too cramped in the 'reach' dimension when standing on the pedals going down, as I have to force myself back from a normal central comfy spot even for moderate descents due to feeling a little too much 'over the front'. Doesn't help that the fork is fubar and sits low in its now 75mm travel! ahahaha.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

My Manitou fork did the exact same thing, damper fluid leaked into lowers causing hydro lock. I was traveling when it happened and couldn't find a shop that could get the fork up and running for my stop in Moab. Ended up just buying a new take off pike and threw the Manitou Magnum in the dumpster.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

Stickman181 said:


> My '18 Fuse is still killin' me. I've love the big tyres and the quicker I go the better the bike handles the full on rocky trails I ride at my local 4-5 times a week.
> I keep the drive train, wiper seals, headset area and bb area clean after every ride, but have to CONSTANTLY tighten things like the cranks, rear hub, & headset.
> 
> My bike has done 1400kms (900 miles?) in about 13 weeks, and I've had the bike back to the shop at least 7 times for various things.


Sorry to hear. You ride way more than I do. Nonetheless, I have to constantly tighten my rear axle bolt too. It's not like I'm riding crazy trails, etc. It bugs me, though I still love my Fuse (2019) so much.

Best of luck on your bike!


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Stickman181 said:


> My '18 Fuse is still killin' me. I've love the big tyres and the quicker I go the better the bike handles the full on rocky trails I ride at my local 4-5 times a week.
> I keep the drive train, wiper seals, headset area and bb area clean after every ride, but have to CONSTANTLY tighten things like the cranks, rear hub, & headset.
> 
> My bike has done 1400kms (900 miles?) in about 13 weeks, and I've had the bike back to the shop at least 7 times for various things.
> ...


A new frame will not help with the problems you lost above. Sounds like you beat the hell out of the bike. Time to buy a bottle of loctite and a torque wrench.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> A new frame will not help with the problems you lost above. Sounds like you beat the hell out of the bike. Time to buy a bottle of loctite and a torque wrench.


I agree. I have had none of these problems with my Fuse. As you describe your beating the hell out of hardtail on rocky trails. Not every bike is going to hold up under that especially not a beginner bike which basically the comp model falls under. Maybe our little bit better off if you upgrade the parts here and there as they get trashed. You're a big dude and you're going to put a big beating on a bike on Trails like that. Obviously I feel suspension bike should hold up a bit better or higher end hardtail with pricier parts. Like a Gonzo said go through it with some Loctite. Are you using a torque wrench? Sometimes we over tighten or under tighten things with very well educated guesses and it turns out we are not accurate.

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## adaycj (Sep 30, 2009)

I've had every one of those problems with my fuse. The frame is really the best part of a Fuse comp. The parts spec really isn't very durable if you really ride a lot on real mountain bike trails. Frankly very few bikes at this price point are much better. Sometimes a little better. People call it abuse or "rode the hell out of it". I call it use. 

Wheels has a deg hanger that isn't cheese. The rear hub gets loose and amplifies shifting problems too. Replacing it is the only long term fix. The headset is also junk, so new frame or not you need one soon. The front fork needs a cartridge, you can buy one online but no amount of futzing with pressure will fix it. They seem to last about 1000 miles of hard riding, so you are about due. A better fork will last longer between major part failures. 

Use lock Tite on the rear axle and over tighten it. It is the only way. Roberts sells a replacement if it eventually strips. Either if the thread together BB solutions will greatly extend the time between creaking on the BB. Wheels and Praxis.


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## Stickman181 (Aug 27, 2018)

Flash: 
I kinda understand that 'not every bike is going to hold up' under the conditions I ride in, but I dont' exactly call myself a 'hardcore' rider. I've only been riding again after 13 years off, for now, 3 months! Skills are coming back, but ... And, I wouldn't call a $2000 bike a beginner bike, not top of the line, but ... not $500!. (australian dollars)

I have had full suss bikes in the past, and yes they are better, but still, back then, I was blowing shocks and forks reguarily, so I didn't want to go there again for cost reasons. I just want to ride and have fun without all the hassle - hence thinking a 'decent' HT was the answer. 

To answer your questions though, I DO use locktite, and a torque wrench. I have old british motorcycles that i restore, so am well versed in the use of Locktite! ahahah, and with MTB's, I understand the need for a torque wrench, due to the soft metals being used for bolts and bosses.

Adaycj: I agree, the frame is the best part of the FUSE, but it has its issues too, hence, the ONLY reason why I think a new frame is in my future. my two peaves are the PF30 BB and integrated headset. This is why I want a new frame, one, with a threaded BB and a 'normal' headset.

I also call it 'use'. Yes my trails are very rocky and rough - 99% are more or less cut from nature and left as is. Not groomed in the slightest. I understand they beat up the bike, but to be honest, I would expect a little more from a $2000 bike to last longer than 3 rides at a very sedate pace (beginner) before I started having issues. The LBS have been good, but I doubt i'll have much luck from here on in.

The Mech hanger is utter rubbish. So soft, that when you shift, it flexes away from the frame, and let dirt between the hanger and frame. Constant source of creaking. I finally fixed that by bedding the hanger in gasket sealant and letting it go hard. I have a Wheels MFG hanger, but have not put that on yet. Might not get to, unless i convert the Fuse into a road bike with 700c 35's or something ahahaha and just use it for road rides - really all it's good for.

The other reason i'm going to get another frame, is just I find the reach a little too short for me when I stand for descents. So another 1/2" would be nice.

I really do like the bike and love the 3.0's. It's just frustrating that seemingly, you have to spend a million dollars even on a HT to get something that doesn't blow up every ride. Mountain bikes have come a LONG way since I stopped riding 13years ago, but, they've also gotten LOADS more expensive to get a quality bike.

My last bike was a Norco SIX. Cost me just under $5000 13 years ago. Bomb proof out of the box. I'd say, you have to spend like $8-10,000 now to get the same 'bombproofness' in a Dually... Am i wrong? 

Thanks for your comments... always good to see both sides of the story - Mind you, I'm not normally one to complain about stuff....


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

British motorcycles. LOL. Yep, you know the pain. We all have different experiences with stuff. I've ridden the Fuse with the Roval SL wheels so no hub issues for me. Guess I've been lucky with the headset. I put in some bearings that I had laying around when I built it and they've been fine. No axle issues either. Sounds like I better order a spare derailleur hanger though. I pressed in a Race Face X-TYPE BB and it's been silent. I can't argue that some of the stock parts are crap. Looks like they just can't get the low end hubs to hold up.

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## Stickman181 (Aug 27, 2018)

UPDATE on the Manitou Fork.
LBS just rang and is charging me for a 100hr fork service. Apparently the oil in the bottom of the lowers had turned to jam, and there was air bubbles trapped in the rest of the oil. They wouldn't surface. Doesn't know why the fork locked out at 1/2 travel, but everything cleaned up and new fluids she's like new apparently. 
Strava puts me at 80hrs for 3 months of ownership.
Fingers crossed it gets me thru the XMAS period.


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## J-RO4 (Sep 20, 2011)

I have a 2019 Fuse Expert and like you a lot of or tails are Ricky and I push the bike to it's limits. I'll admit the stock fork on the comp could be better. Mine came with a RockShox Reba and while it was a nicer fork I upgraded pretty quickly to a new RockShox Revelation with 140mm of travel. Personally this bike with 140-150mm really makes it come alive. I've had zero issues with the headset, but I have had issues with the rear hub constantly coming loose. Wheel upgrades are next on my list. It's definitely apain to spend that kind of money on a bike then have to.upgrade parts but I really like the frame and the way it handles. Once the wheels are swapped, maybe DT Swiss Xm551, then the bike shouldn't need anything other than maintenance


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

J-RO4 said:


> I have a 2019 Fuse Expert and like you a lot of or tails are Ricky and I push the bike to it's limits. I'll admit the stock fork on the comp could be better. Mine came with a RockShox Reba and while it was a nicer fork I upgraded pretty quickly to a new RockShox Revelation with 140mm of travel. Personally this bike with 140-150mm really makes it come alive. I've had zero issues with the headset, but I have had issues with the rear hub constantly coming loose. Wheel upgrades are next on my list. It's definitely apain to spend that kind of money on a bike then have to.upgrade parts but I really like the frame and the way it handles. Once the wheels are swapped, maybe DT Swiss Xm551, then the bike shouldn't need anything other than maintenance


It looks like the 2019 Expert model comes with sealed cartridge bearing hubs with removable end caps, the bearings and the end caps are essentially held in place by the thru-axel. I am confuse as to how the hub is coming loose, is it the thru-axel that keeps coming loose?


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

What would be a better option the Ibis 735 or the hope pro wheelset? My rear wheel is getting worse and i want to move down to a 2.8 tire


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## Stickman181 (Aug 27, 2018)

[email protected] said:


> It looks like the 2019 Expert model comes with sealed cartridge bearing hubs with removable end caps, the bearings and the end caps are essentially held in place by the thru-axel. I am confuse as to how the hub is coming loose, is it the thru-axel that keeps coming loose?


[email protected] - The rear 'hub' comes loose, (on the comp) as the axle is set up with a 'cup and cone' style preload direct to the bearings. As this is my first bike with 'cartridge' bearings (been off bikes for over a decade) I'm not familiar with better wheelsets, but suspect they have a much better way to keep preload on the axle and bearings. I've only had the actual axle come loose once, but that may have been from not doing it up properly early on in the ownership.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

Stickman181 said:


> [email protected] - The rear 'hub' comes loose, (on the comp) as the axle is set up with a 'cup and cone' style preload direct to the bearings. As this is my first bike with 'cartridge' bearings (been off bikes for over a decade) I'm not familiar with better wheelsets, but suspect they have a much better way to keep preload on the axle and bearings. I've only had the actual axle come loose once, but that may have been from not doing it up properly early on in the ownership.


I know the older comp models come with cup and cone style bearings, but *J-RO4* said he had the 2019 expert model. I am confused to what he is experiencing with a sealed cartridge bearing hub coming loose (what comes on the 2019 expert and comp).


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

There is a double nut sytem like the cup and cone axels. No cone. It keeps the axel tight.. If it comes loose your rear wheel will move all over the place. Normal maintenance item.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

Nvm


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## J-RO4 (Sep 20, 2011)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> There is a double nut sytem like the cup and cone axels. No cone. It keeps the axel tight.. If it comes loose your rear wheel will move all over the place. Normal maintenance item.


Yup this is what's happening. I'm looking to replace the wheels anyway. I don't know what the stock wheels weigh as I can't find much information on them, but I can tell they are very flexy. I've thought about carbon, but truthfully I'm not racing it and weight savings on a quality aluminum wheelset are very similar to carbon and offer IMHO more durability.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

I checked out the hub and see what you mean with the double nut axel. I've never had it come loose, and just assumed it was an end caps like any other modern hub. 


Anyone on here ever installed or looked into putting an eccentric bottom bracket on a fuse frame? Thinking about converting to a single speed instead on replacing the worn cassette and chain. Thinking it might be fun or it might frustrating as hell.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

What is up with the seatpost shim on the carbon fuse?


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I killed the thread. 😆


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I killed the thread. 


Ha, I have something to add. I found the magic gearing on my 2016 fuse frame for running single speed. Currently running a 30 tooth chainring and an 18 tooth cog, no tensioner required! The gearing is solid for trail riding, but a 16 tooth cog is ideal for a mix of road and trail.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

77 Designs 36mm stem and Sworks carbon bar. Getting ready to go tubless. Was planning on ditching the stock wheels. I am liking the 3.0 on the snow.


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## aka aka (Jan 29, 2019)

SIAP, but I've been looking that the Fuse Comp. It appears that for 2019 the 6Fattie version is only available in Carbon. It looks like the Comp (and Expert) are now just "regular" 27+ and still comes with 3.0" tires. I assume the new model would not still be compatible with 29ers? The other changes I see appear to be the fork has changed from the Manitou Machete to a Rokshox Recon RL, and the brakes changed to SRAM Levels from Tektro. 

Am I understanding correctly re: the 29er compatibility? I searched a good bit for anything talking about the 2019 Fuse changes but haven't seen anything (press releases, updated reviews, etc.). 

Danke.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

I have a Fuse for sale if anyone is interested. Set up 29er +ish. Right now 2.6 Nobby Nics. I just need more time on my suspension bike. My 60 yr old back ain't what it used to be. In Michigan. 1x10 with a Reba. PM if interested. I'll miss her but my back won't. 

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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

aka aka said:


> SIAP, but I've been looking that the Fuse Comp. It appears that for 2019 the 6Fattie version is only available in Carbon. It looks like the Comp (and Expert) are now just "regular" 27+ and still comes with 3.0" tires. I assume the new model would not still be compatible with 29ers? The other changes I see appear to be the fork has changed from the Manitou Machete to a Rokshox Recon RL, and the brakes changed to SRAM Levels from Tektro.
> 
> Am I understanding correctly re: the 29er compatibility? I searched a good bit for anything talking about the 2019 Fuse changes but haven't seen anything (press releases, updated reviews, etc.).
> 
> Danke.


I have a '19 Fuse Comp. You're right abt the RS Recon and SRAM Levels, vs the previous year.
Not sure about 29er compatibility. You can try calling Specialized directly. They're pretty good at answering the phone and providing (some) tech advice.

btw, I love my bike with 27.5+ 3.0, for the riding I like to do.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

aka aka said:


> SIAP, but I've been looking that the Fuse Comp. It appears that for 2019 the 6Fattie version is only available in Carbon. It looks like the Comp (and Expert) are now just "regular" 27+ and still comes with 3.0" tires. I assume the new model would not still be compatible with 29ers? The other changes I see appear to be the fork has changed from the Manitou Machete to a Rokshox Recon RL, and the brakes changed to SRAM Levels from Tektro.
> 
> Am I understanding correctly re: the 29er compatibility? I searched a good bit for anything talking about the 2019 Fuse changes but haven't seen anything (press releases, updated reviews, etc.).
> 
> Danke.


I'm confused by your post.... you seem to be making some distinction between 6Fattie and "Regular" 27.5+. It is my understanding that 6Fattie is just Specialized's term for 27.5+ or 650b+. They just adapted the term 6fifty to be 6Fattie. All 6Fattie bikes should be compatible as 29ers.


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## aka aka (Jan 29, 2019)

@CrankAddictRich - The Specialized site now lists two Carbon Fuse models: one designated "6fattie/29" and one "27.5+". The specs on both have 27+ 3" tires. All the other models (expert, comp, base) just say "27+". In the description on the 6fattie one it discusses the "Specialized 6fattie wheel/tire system" and highlights that you can toggle between 27 and 29. The other models do not highlight this. My guess is the new bikes are not as easily swappable with 29ers? Perhaps the forks are not as accommodating? I really don't know. You can see what I mean here:
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/shop/bikes/mountain-bikes/trail-bikes/fuse/c/trailfuse


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## Toddzilla (Nov 27, 2016)

Their website must be messed up.


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

aka aka said:


> @CrankAddictRich - The Specialized site now lists two Carbon Fuse models: one designated "6fattie/29" and one "27.5+". The specs on both have 27+ 3" tires. All the other models (expert, comp, base) just say "27+". In the description on the 6fattie one it discusses the "Specialized 6fattie wheel/tire system" and highlights that you can toggle between 27 and 29. The other models do not highlight this. My guess is the new bikes are not as easily swappable with 29ers? Perhaps the forks are not as accommodating? I really don't know. You can see what I mean here:
> https://www.specialized.com/us/en/shop/bikes/mountain-bikes/trail-bikes/fuse/c/trailfuse


Interesting. Maybe they are dropping th 6fattie name branding. The older bike is 11spd gx. Newer bike is 12spd nx. A 27.5" x 3.0" purgatory is 28.75" tall and barely fits a traditional 27.5" boost fork. But a 29er tire will not fit. Im running the 27.5" fork on my fuse set 150mm travel as its shorter axle to crown keeping the geo about the same. I could not fit a 29er wheel in there but also couldnt fit 150mm travel on a 29er fork. Me happy with my setup.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

I'm running the stock 27.5+ Reba. Roval Traverse 30mm rims with 29x2.6 Nobby Nics. Plenty of room 

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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

Flash said:


> I'm running the stock 27.5+ Reba. Roval Traverse 30mm rims with 29x2.6 Nobby Nics. Plenty of room
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Im on a nonstock fork 27.5 boost. It will not fit a 29er. But fits perfect scraper i45 combo. 150mm is right at 67degrees.

ForkÂ*- SR SUNTOUR Cycling

as i understand 27.5+ is also 29


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

If you buy a new fork. Do not buy a 27.5 fork unless you know what you are after as far as handling. Different fork offsets. No clearance for 29. Just be aware of what you are doing. You want the 29/27.5+ version.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

aka aka said:


> @CrankAddictRich - The Specialized site now lists two Carbon Fuse models: one designated "6fattie/29" and one "27.5+". The specs on both have 27+ 3" tires. All the other models (expert, comp, base) just say "27+". In the description on the 6fattie one it discusses the "Specialized 6fattie wheel/tire system" and highlights that you can toggle between 27 and 29. The other models do not highlight this. My guess is the new bikes are not as easily swappable with 29ers? Perhaps the forks are not as accommodating? I really don't know. You can see what I mean here:
> https://www.specialized.com/us/en/shop/bikes/mountain-bikes/trail-bikes/fuse/c/trailfuse


OK, so I chatted with the fat tire expert at my local shop. The bike you see labeled as a 6fattie/29 on the website is a carry-over from the 2018 MY and that is why it is listed as a 6fattie/29. They've removed the 29'er designation because more and more people are running 29x2.6's and that won't fit the bike... at least not all 2.6's. Normal XC 29'ers will fit fine.



Flash said:


> I'm running the stock 27.5+ Reba. Roval Traverse 30mm rims with 29x2.6 Nobby Nics. Plenty of room
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Interesting... I've been thinking about putting the 29's that I have on my Enduro, onto the Fuse. I'm running 2.6 Butcher/Purgatory combo on Traverse wheels. I'm running a 27.5+/29 Pike on my Fuse and the front looks like the 29x2.6 would clear fine, but I think the rear will be tight.



Fuse6F said:


> Im on a nonstock fork 27.5 boost. It will not fit a 29er. But fits perfect scraper i45 combo. 150mm is right at 67degrees.
> 
> ForkÂ*- SR SUNTOUR Cycling
> 
> as i understand 27.5+ is also 29


That's the problem... you're running a 27.5 fork, not a 27.5+ fork.


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

I wasnt the guy trying to run 29ers. I was the guy who found a way to run 150mm and only be a half or less degrees off of stock travel on a 120mm bike. Not much diff after factoring in the additional sag

I have a new stumpy w stock 29er fork and its 150mm stock on same wheel tire package and it has huge clearance as compared to the fuse w say 5mm


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

If anyone wants to try 29ers I have a like new take offs for sale









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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

2016 specialized Fuse
Suntour Auron 150mm
Nukeproof Horizon bars 35mm rise 
Wolf tooth fat grips
eBay 35mm stem
Brakes: Sram Guide RS 200mm/180mm rotors
Cranks: Shimano SLX 
BB: Wheels manufacturing 
Pedals: Kona Wah Wah ii 
DT: Sram 10spd
Wheels: WTB Scrapper i45 on specialized stout hubs
Seat: PNW Bachelor 150, WTB Volt
Tires: Purgatory/ Ground Control 3.0









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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

I love that shade of blue on your fork! And red/white/blue on bikes in general. Thanks for posting your pics.


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

View attachment 1237252


Nice bike B! Is that one of their demo forks your testing out? How did you like it? Mine was recently revalved at its last service per newest specs and it is way better.

Try to find a better pic of mine later. But here is the auron in action.

2016 fuse xxl
Diety Cz38 riser
Wheels bb
Gx eagle complete including cranks
150mm auron pcs2 27.5" boost fork (67 degrees)
180mm rear rotor, swiss stop sintered pads (recommend)
stamp 3 xl pedals
tubeless naturally 
Wtb scraper i45, purgatory grids fr/rr
Rest stock

im new to the sport. My first bike. Learning and having fun.


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Fuse6F said:


> View attachment 1237252
> 
> 
> Nice bike B! Is that one of their demo forks your testing out? How did you like it? Mine was recently revalved at its last service per newest specs and it is way better.
> ...


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Am I the only one that hates the rear brake bracket? Theirs no room to work on it especially if running a 180mm rotor


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I could not fit a 180 on my sons alloy frame. Had to buy a 160.


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I could not fit a 180 on my sons alloy frame. Had to buy a 160.


Fits fine.

I have used both hope and trp adapter brackets. Just use the extended allen tool in my torque wrench kit to clear rear down stay for tightening.

Ps. Dont get a shimano rotor as i experience shudder from it. Will be trying the trp or sram one next time


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Fuse6F said:


> Fits fine.
> 
> I have used both hope and trp adapter brackets. Just use the extended allen tool in my torque wrench kit to clear rear down stay for tightening.
> 
> Ps. Dont get a shimano rotor as i experience shudder from it. Will be trying the trp or sram one next time


I was running a 180 ice tech on my slates and they had a shutter when the pads made contact(Shimano adapter) now with the guides and centerline I haven't noticed any noise

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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I have zero issues with shimano rotors. I do not use icetech. They can delaminate and run untrue. The sram brakes squeal much more than any shinano from my experience.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

My sons large Fuse had a 180. We switched him over to a large Ruze frame. We hsd to go to a 160mm rotor. My Fuse carbon also has a 180mm rotor. I plan on replacing the level T brakes asap.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Has anyone tried a 29x2.6 Fast Trak on the carbon Fuse frame?


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> Has anyone tried a 29x2.6 Fast Trak on the carbon Fuse frame?


I've been asking this question with no response. I think I'm going to have to take one for the team. Considering specialized tires run a little bit narrow and I used a 2.6 Nobby Nic on the back of mine but just barely, I would strongly suspect that this 2.6 FasTrak will work.

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## Toddzilla (Nov 27, 2016)

I tried a 29 x 2.6 rekon and while it had clearance it was just too close for comfort.


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

The new Eliminator blck dmnd looks good 


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Bassballer150 said:


> The new Eliminator blck dmnd looks good
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


1400g tire is not what I am looking for. It does look good though. That would be fun on my stumpy in the control casing.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Been searching for 2 days for info on the 29x2.6 fast trak. Weight and true size.


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Took off the ground control and put in the new Purgatory Grid , did very well in the wet and some slush snow. Will probably run this setup throughout winter and switch the rear back to ground control or Eliminator for summer


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Your bike didn't come with a Purgatory on it? That's the standard front tire. It should have been Purgatory on the front, Ground control on the rear.


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

CrankAddictRich said:


> Your bike didn't come with a Purgatory on it? That's the standard front tire. It should have been Purgatory on the front, Ground control on the rear.


Yes it did come with Purgatory in the front, I switched out the rear so now I am running Purgatory front and back

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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> Has anyone tried a 29x2.6 Fast Trak on the carbon Fuse frame?


I just put some i30 traverse rims with a 29x2.6 purgatory grid on the back and a 29x2.6 butcher grid on the front. I have some industrial strength Velcro (1/8 inch) on the frame for protection and the tire still clears fine. With this setup you might get some rub from time to time with hard cornering, but it is a cheapish 2016 Alloy frame so I don't mind. It fits better than running a 2.3 tire on my old 2009 quick release frame.. I will note that a 27.5 3.0 purgatory/2.8 fast track rolls faster than the burly 29x2.6 combo I am running now. The bike definitely feels more playful and accelerates better as a 27.5+. However, my 27.5+ wheelset is probably 400-500 grams lighter than the 29er wheelset I am running so that might have something to do with my observations. I plan on trying a lighter 29er wheelset when the opportunity presents itself. I am sure a fast track 29x2.6 should fit fine as long as you are fine with an occasional rub here and there.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

The carbon frame clearance is different I believe. I have a set og Ibis 938 with 2.6 Nobby Nics. Really tight. Maybe a mm or two clearance on the non-drive side. Looking for a lightish fast setup. Hoping the fast track is just bit smaller. 😣


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

A bike shop put some calipers on one of my butcher 2.6s on a i30 rim, it measured around 2.45. They put the calipers on my 2.5 WT minion DHF for comparison and it measured right at 2.5 at the nobs with the same wheel. I noticed the nobs on the specialized 2.6s are not pushed out as far as Maxxis tires. I have no experience with Nobby Nics, but if they measure 2.5 or more the fast track might be what you are looking for.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

After some aggressive trail riding yesterday on the 2.6 specialized 29er tires I am switching back to 27.5+. I was getting more rubbing than expected and the bike just wasn't as fun for me. The 2.8 fast tracks are my favorite set up, they roll fast and still give enough cushion to make the bike feel planted when things get rowdy on the rocky local trails I ride daily.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> After some aggressive trail riding yesterday on the 2.6 specialized 29er tires I am switching back to 27.5+. I was getting more rubbing than expected and the bike just wasn't as fun for me. The 2.8 fast tracks are my favorite set up, they roll fast and still give enough cushion to make the bike feel planted when things get rowdy on the rocky local trails I ride daily.


This makes me wonder more about the Fastrak 2.6. My bet is it runs narrower, rolls faster and hopefully a bit lighter than the beefier 2.6s. The 2.3 works well on both ends in summer on my local trails so it's worth a try.

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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I went from 27.5 x 3.p Nobby Nics to 29x2.6 NN on my Stumpy. It was so much better. Cornering, handling everything. I was hoping to run those wheels on my Fuse. Not enough clearance Clarence!


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

What chain guide are you guys running? Pics would be great thanks 


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Bassballer150 said:


> What chain guide are you guys running? Pics would be great thanks
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Welp, I'm looking for a stock 2012-2015 chainstay protector if anyone has one.

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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Flash said:


> Welp, I'm looking for a stock 2012-2015 chainstay protector if anyone has one.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


LOL, NM. I opened the wrong door.

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## yuriy (Jan 27, 2019)

Hello everyone,
I have recently bought a 2017 Fuse frame which came with the Stout XC crankset. I am considering replacing it. I have an Shimano crankset laying around which I can fit using an PF30 to BSA adapter as well a Sram crankset which will also fit. Both are normal MTB cranksets and are approximately 1cm narrower than Stout. There is enough clearance to the chain stays, but I am concerned that I will have issues with the clearence between the chain stay and my shoe. Has anybody tried this? Should I just stick to the wider cranks? Thanks.


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## overmyhead (Apr 26, 2017)

*Upforking your Fuse - how'd it go?*

I'd like to get more travel and a significantly plusher ride than the stock Reba RC3 120mm fork on my 2016 Fuse Pro provides.

Is going to a 150mm fork going to slacken the Fuse too much? I go through the Reba's entire 120mm travel at least a few times every time I ride the chunky NW trails in my neck of the woods.

Am considering either a 150mm Pike RTC or a DVO Diamond. Minimum travel of either fork is 150mm, deals can be found on both. I understand that DVO's Sapphire can be adjusted to produce 130mm of travel and it's kinda light too, but I can't justify spending $900+ on a fork for my Fuse and the Pike and Diamond can be found for far less $$$.

Do the experts recommend a pro service for the Reba - or should I go ahead & get a more substantial fork?


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

overmyhead said:


> I'd like to get more travel and a significantly plusher ride than the stock Reba RC3 120mm fork on my 2016 Fuse Pro provides.
> 
> Is going to a 150mm fork going to slacken the Fuse too much? I go through the Reba's entire 120mm travel at least a few times every time I ride the chunky NW trails in my neck of the woods.
> 
> ...


Sell the Reba, get a beefier fork. Don't waste time or money trying to hop it up with any aftermarket suspension tweaks.

I've had 2 Fuses (Al and CF) and 4 forks on them. MRP Ribbon has been my favorite so far. Fox 34 wasn't bad, Rockshox Revelation (35mil stanchions, pre-debonair) sucked, some stock Manitou fork that was garbage.

I personally like the 130-140mm range on this frame. If I want more, I'll just jump on my enduro bike. 140mm is plenty for hucks moderate sized and chunky DH.


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

overmyhead said:


> I'd like to get more travel and a significantly plusher ride than the stock Reba RC3 120mm fork on my 2016 Fuse Pro provides.
> 
> Is going to a 150mm fork going to slacken the Fuse too much? I go through the Reba's entire 120mm travel at least a few times every time I ride the chunky NW trails in my neck of the woods.
> 
> ...


A few posts up we discuss running the auron fork in 27.5" size on 3.0" tires set to 150mm. The lower axle crown supports this fork perfectly at near stock geo extended and is adjustable for travel 130 to 160mm with a spacer change internally.

35mm too with high low speed compression and rebound. Great fork. Its what i run!


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

Adding 2 bottomless tokens to the Reba and running more sag will make the fork feel softer and bottom out less. I run a 29er 140mm Pike on mine and still had to add tokens to get a soft ride with bottom out support. That said, I think the bike handles better with the 140mm fork and the stem slammed vs the stock 120 setup.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I installed a Fox Factory 34 Step cast. Sworks carbon dh bars. 77 designs 36mm stem. XX1 eagle crank. Some Ethirteen TRSr carbon race 27.5xi31 wheels should be here tomorrow. Probably run 27.5x2.6 butcher/slaughter to start. Pretty excited to see the final weight. I think it will be a fun setup...


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I installed a Fox Factory 34 Step cast. Sworks carbon dh bars. 77 designs 36mm stem. XX1 eagle crank. Some Ethirteen TRSr carbon race 27.5xi31 wheels should be here tomorrow. Probably run 27.5x2.6 butcher/slaughter to start. Pretty excited to see the final weight. I think it will be a fun setup...


Pics

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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Adding 2 bottomless tokens to the Reba and running more sag will make the fork feel softer and bottom out less. I run a 29er 140mm Pike on mine and still had to add tokens to get a soft ride with bottom out support. That said, I think the bike handles better with the 140mm fork and the stem slammed vs the stock 120 setup.


I'm going to give this a shot, I don't feel the fork is plush enough and I am not prepared to plunk down the $$ for a MRP Ramp Control cartridge. I'm kind of a set it and forget it guy and ride the same network of trails mostly, so I think once I dial in the air pressure/sag and figure the right amount of tokens, I suppose I'll be good.

I'm riding weight of about 190 and have the air pressure set below the reco'd amount and still think it's too stiff/not enough sag.

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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Dont be a set it and forget it guy. You leave so much control and performance on the table. Check your tire pressure and fork pressure often. Dont be afraid to turn yout clickers. Write down the settings. Try stuff. It will just make your whole experience better. Also as you oil gets old it gets thinner. You will chase you settings over time. You will be more aware and know when it is time for an oil change. I dont mean to preach. But You will be amazed at the performance you gain and the knowledge you gain.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> Dont be a set it and forget it guy. You leave so much control and performance on the table. Check your tire pressure and fork pressure often. Dont be afraid to turn yout clickers. Write down the settings. Try stuff. It will just make your whole experience better. Also as you oil gets old it gets thinner. You will chase you settings over time. You will be more aware and know when it is time for an oil change. I dont mean to preach. But You will be amazed at the performance you gain and the knowledge you gain.


My post came out wrong, yes I do check tire pressure religiously (especially since I am trying to dial it in) as well as fork air pressure, etc. Even mid-ride in the "getting-to-know-you" phase! I just meant I'm not the constant suspension tinkerer and don't change settings like bottom out based on the trail I am riding when I am out. The MRP Ramp Cartridge looks like a great innovation, but I doubt I'd be constantly clicking it back and forth because of sections of trail, so I think getting the correct # of token and my sag set so I can have a little more plushness and more control of bottom out will make me happy. $18 vs. $150 is a pretty easy decision, but if I feel the need to start changing it often I'd probably make the investment.

What I am not going to do is drop $900 on a new fork right out of the gate.


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

New wheels going in DT xm 551 laced







to 370 hubs butcher/ slaughter 2.6

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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

blaklabl said:


> My post came out wrong, yes I do check tire pressure religiously (especially since I am trying to dial it in) as well as fork air pressure, etc. Even mid-ride in the "getting-to-know-you" phase! I just meant I'm not the constant suspension tinkerer and don't change settings like bottom out based on the trail I am riding when I am out. The MRP Ramp Cartridge looks like a great innovation, but I doubt I'd be constantly clicking it back and forth because of sections of trail, so I think getting the correct # of token and my sag set so I can have a little more plushness and more control of bottom out will make me happy. $18 vs. $150 is a pretty easy decision, but if I feel the need to start changing it often I'd probably make the investment.
> 
> What I am not going to do is drop $900 on a new fork right out of the gate.


I misunderstood. I would not normally pop for a different fork. The Fox 34 sc is kinda what I built my bike around. This thing is amazing. Its still a little weird being back on a hardtail. I find myself whith the front end in the air and jumping every little thing! Sooooo fun.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I would not normally pop for a different fork.


I wasn't directing that towards you, was just a general observation. Most forums answer to any fork question about a stock fork is just "sell it and buy XXX fork, they are so much better"....last time I checked a take-off fork doesn't typically get much on the used market, even in like new condition! I think the REBA will be fine for me, I got a couple of bottomless tokens in it and dropped the pressure and I can tell a difference. I am considering doing the Charger2 damper upgrade, I had Charger in my last Pike and the adjustability was nice. But still that's only $230, much more palatable than a whole fork swap.

Now I just need my bruised tail bone to heal so I'm not in agony over every bump...


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I sold my reba for $375 as a new take off. I did not want a 32mm fork. I find them flexy. I am 205 and like to hit aggressive trails. Picked up the Fox 43 sc new second hand. $750. I would have put a standard 34 but the sc is 1 oz lighter than my Reba. I kinda built the bike around the fork. It is killer.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Half thinking I should have opted for the standard 34 in 140mm travel. I have bottomes this about once per ride on average this weekend. Other than that it really is perfect so far.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Added another token. It is getting better!


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Hey, for anyone riding a Fuse Carbon (hopefully size medium), what is the longest drop seatpost you’ve gotten in there, and what brand? While the Trans-X that came with mine is fine, it’s only 100mm drop. I’d really like something 150-ish.


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> Hey, for anyone riding a Fuse Carbon (hopefully size medium), what is the longest drop seatpost you've gotten in there, and what brand? While the Trans-X that came with mine is fine, it's only 100mm drop. I'd really like something 150-ish.


Not riding a carbon but I'm sure it's the same seat tube length as alloy I currently have a PNW Bachelor 150

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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

blaklabl said:


> Hey, for anyone riding a Fuse Carbon (hopefully size medium), what is the longest drop seatpost you've gotten in there, and what brand? While the Trans-X that came with mine is fine, it's only 100mm drop. I'd really like something 150-ish.


I am in the same boat. I intend to order a PNW Bachelor in 34.9 to get rid of the dumb shim. For my leg length it will be fully inserted. I am on a medium. I am 5'9". PNW gives good advice on measuring for a longer dropper on the website.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I am in the same boat. I intend to order a PNW Bachelor in 34.9 to get rid of the dumb shim. For my leg length it will be fully inserted. I am on a medium. I am 5'9". PNW gives good advice on measuring for a longer dropper on the website.


TBH I didn't realize there was a shim in there...it's a 34.9 seatpost?


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> TBH I didn't realize there was a shim in there...it's a 34.9 seatpost?


No it's not it's a 30.9

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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Yes. Take a look. They intended to spec a 34.9 post. They were not ready in time. So they put in a shim. Just a terrible move imho.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

I know the post that comes in there is a 30.9, but Gonzo mentioned getting rid of the shim?


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> I know the post that comes in there is a 30.9, but Gonzo mentioned getting rid of the shim?


I think his referring to the shim on the dropper to adjust the travel

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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Bassballer150 said:


> I think his referring to the shim on the dropper to adjust the travel
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well that would be ideal but I don't think that is what he means...he specifically said he was going to get a 34.9mm post and remove the shim. I'll have to take a look. The bike is so awesome as it is, that one little detail just holds it back.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

No. There is a shim in the SEAT TUBE. Seat tube is 34.9. The post is 30.9 so a shim is required on the carbon model. A 34.9 seatpost will eliminate this.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

I just looked at the spec of the 2019 carbon and M-XXL all get 150mm Trans-X post so I know it will fit...but it is still listed as a 30.9 post. I know 34.9 isn’t offered across a bunch of brands yet, I’ll have to do some research.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Pnw does have one. Specialized has the Wu droper in 34.9


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

For those of you that have stepped down from the stock Spesh 3.0's to a Maxxis Rekon 2.8 (or really any 2.8 tire), how much BB drop have you experienced and did it increase pedal strikes noticeably? It's an expensive experiment, so hoping someone has tried it and can give feedback. 

Thanks!


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## overmyhead (Apr 26, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> For those of you that have stepped down from the stock Spesh 3.0's to a Maxxis Rekon 2.8 (or really any 2.8 tire), how much BB drop have you experienced and did it increase pedal strikes noticeably? It's an expensive experiment, so hoping someone has tried it and can give feedback.
> 
> Thanks!


Since I've switched out the 3.0 Ground Control tires for 2.8 Butcher & Purgatory, I haven't noticed additional pedal strikes - but the ride in the rear is harsher with reduced roll-over and reduced traction. I'm digging the Butcher 2.8 up front, steering feels more precise, but for the trails I ride, a 2.8 rear doesn't provide enough cushion, I'm going to try a 3.0 Purgatory in back.


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

overmyhead said:


> Since I've switched out the 3.0 Ground Control tires for 2.8 Butcher & Purgatory, I haven't noticed additional pedal strikes - but the ride in the rear is harsher with reduced roll-over and reduced traction. I'm digging the Butcher 2.8 up front, steering feels more precise, but for the trails I ride, a 2.8 rear doesn't provide enough cushion, I'm going to try a 3.0 Purgatory in back.


I might try that combo

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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I am running 27.5x2.6 and have had no issues.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I am running 27.5x2.6 and have had no issues.


I'd love to see a pic or two. I can't imagine how low a 2.6 makes that BB, but maybe I am wrong.


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## overmyhead (Apr 26, 2017)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I am running 27.5x2.6 and have had no issues.


Is it fairly rooty/rocky where you ride? Before I went to 2.8's a guy at my shop who is very familiar with the Fuse warned me off 2.6's, said I'd have bottom bracket strikes.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Its not rocky here at all. With my stumpjumper I had tons of pedal strikes. Even with 3.0" tires. This has been no issue on the fuse. Even the 2.6 butcher drops the bb less than 1/4 inch. I do have some 2.8 Rocket Ron's I want to try. I kinda wish they were 2.6 as well. The butchers rip! A bit slow on the flats though. Not so fun on group rides.


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

What chain guide are you guys running? I keep dropping chains


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Like this? There goes the new. All rubbed off. :madmax:


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> View attachment 1247672
> 
> Like this? There goes the new. All rubbed off. :madmax:


It's coming off the chain ring super annoying

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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

That is stuck between the chainring and the frame. Had to walk out of the woods. Messed my paint up. Stupid sesign of the chainstay in that area.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

I had 2. Both alloy with the cut out chainstays. Never had a chain come off. 

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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> View attachment 1247672
> 
> Like this? There goes the new. All rubbed off. :madmax:


I had a chain come off once but not with the eagle. Run a 28t upfront so i do notice its noisy w chain slap

is chain length correct?
how many teeth is that? Looks like 32. That drops clearance alot. And raises chain up off the stay. Maybe try raising chain stay protector.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I think it was a fluke. Yes the 32 tightens up clearance. I have spun out the 32! How can you design a bike that cant at least run a 34? Ridiculous. Had to take off the quick link to get it out. No serious damage. It did take off the paint. Chain was kinda stiff. Cold? I took it off washed it in mineral spirits. Let it dry. Busyed out the dumond tech lube. It has been great ever since.


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

Hi all, I just got a new wheelset. 40mm iw. Had been running the Purgatory's 3.0, what would be a similar 2.8 tire? The Purgatory's had great traction and grip for our area. Can't ride when it's wet, sticky mess. Anyone running the 2.8 Rekons by Maxxis?
Thanks, MikeB


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

WMBigs said:


> Hi all, I just got a new wheelset. 40mm iw. Had been running the Purgatory's 3.0, what would be a similar 2.8 tire? The Purgatory's had great traction and grip for our area. Can't ride when it's wet, sticky mess. Anyone running the 2.8 Rekons by Maxxis?
> Thanks, MikeB


I just switched to 2.6 butcher and it's great more traction then the Purgatory up front

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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Bassballer150 said:


> I just switched to 2.6 butcher and it's great more traction then the Purgatory up front
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I can't even fathom the pedal strikes that going down to a 2.6 tire would cause. Wouldn't 2.8 be a better choice for a bike designed to be a "plus" bike?

Can I get a side and clearance shot of one of these 2.6 conversions?


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

The fuse was a 29er or 3.0" 27.5

If you want narrow go 29er. 

We have a 2.8" rekon on one of our bikes and its so small compared to the 3.0" fattie

It also is on an i40 rim which is a great fit. 

The 3.0" on i38 is a bit narrow and i prefer the i45 there. I ride both


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I think it was a fluke. Yes the 32 tightens up clearance. I have spun out the 32! How can you design a bike that cant at least run a 34? Ridiculous. Had to take off the quick link to get it out. No serious damage. It did take off the paint. Chain was kinda stiff. Cold? I took it off washed it in mineral spirits. Let it dry. Busyed out the dumond tech lube. It has been great ever since.


Spun out as in hit top speed on the 32 x 10 combo. Thats moving!


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Fuse6F said:


> We have a 2.8" rekon on one of our bikes and its so small compared to the 3.0" fattie


Could I get a side by side of the 2.8 Rekon and the 3.0 fattie tires? Maybe also a height comparison?


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Has anyone with a medium CARBON frame fitted a longer dropper post? If so, what was the total insertion into the frame length? Mine came with the 100mm version (2018) and would like to move up to a 150, but having a hard time finding out how deep into the frame I can go without running into issues. Looking at a CB Highline.


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> Could I get a side by side of the 2.8 Rekon and the 3.0 fattie tires? Maybe also a height comparison?


Will do tomorrow.


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

Fuse6F said:


> Spun out as in hit top speed on the 32 x 10 combo. Thats moving!


I'm also running a 32x10 setup, my GPS speedo says that I'm going about 43kmh when my legs won't go any faster


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Fuse6F said:


> Will do tomorrow.


Thank you!


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

View attachment 1248542
View attachment 1248543


Poor photo attempt. Recon 120mm vs auron 150mm. 
I40 and i45
maybe close to 1000km on that purgatory
might switch wheel to other fork for a more direct comparison


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

Could we get a profile shot of the two tires. I have a new wheelset i40 and will likely get the 2.8 Rekons. Riding the Purgatory's now on i45's.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Fuse6F said:


> View attachment 1248542
> View attachment 1248543
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, if you could put them both on the recon, that would probably give a little better idea. Also a height/profile comparison would be appreciated!


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

View attachment 1248927
View attachment 1248928
View attachment 1248929


Here are a couple pics. Auron fork. The 3.0" i lined up the front and back edge of the tire so your looking down the edge. The other two pics are the smaller tire. Rekon 2.8" on an i40

I think the purgatory weighs 1050gm. And rekon 780gm. Depends on the bike and your size if you want to loose the bbh.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Thank you for that! I certainly don’t want to lose that much height. It’s a plus bike for a reason.


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

View attachment 1249473
View attachment 1249474


center of axle to ground difference is 5/8"

purgatory 27.5" x 3.0 on i45 
rekon 27.5" x 2.8 on i40


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

If anyone is curious, I popped for the Roval Traverse SL 38's today as I had always wanted carbon wheels and the timing was right. I also decided to give the Fast Trak 2.8 tires a shot since I always liked them on XC bikes for where I ride, they were on the BOGO sale, and honestly my regular weekly riding loops just don't need super aggressive tires. I'm hoping these are the ticket, although at first impression they are much smaller than I expected. Waiting to see if they grow at full pressure overnight, plus a solid ride tomorrow night.

Overall, the bike lost 2.5lbs overall from the change.  1 pound was just in the tires, but the wheels accounted for the other 1.5lbs. Looking forward to getting out to ride them tomorrow night, and trying to figure out the appropriate pressures. I was at 13/15 on the purg/gc 3.0's, so I think I'll try 15/17 with the 2.8's.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

So, carbon wheels make more of a difference that I would have thought they would. Between those and the Fast Trak 2.8’s, my Fuse Carbon really came alive tonight. 

I was thinking to myself about it during the ride, trying to come up with a way to express the change: it rode more like a mountain bike and less like a fat bike. 

I was originally disappointed in the size of those tires when I mounted them up, but they are so much faster on my home trails, and the Roval wheels just felt so precise. I need to keep working on my tire pressure to dial it in, but I’m really happy with the setup right now.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Sold my 2016 Fuse Expert. Kicked myself til this:


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Has anyone gone to a 44mm offset front fork (or 46) from the stock 51mm? Curious what the changes are, positive and negative, TBH I am having a hard time wrapping my head around it.

Thanks


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## teethandnails (Sep 16, 2013)

I am not sure I would recommend using a lower offest fork on the Fuse. It already has a rather steep HT angle.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

Made a big set of small/med changes to my 2019 Fuse Comp today:
* Fork - RS Yari 130mm (vs Recon 120mm); interesting that crown-to-axle heights are same, so no change to HTA or bb height
* Shifter/Derailleur - GX (vs NX)
* Brake Calipers/Levers - Shimano SLX (vs Level); changing this was my #1 thing to fix
* Rear Brake Rotor - 180mm (vs 160mm)
* BB - Wheels Mfg Threaded... YEAH!
* Pedals - Gnarly looking, blue anodized $30 pair from Amazon  
* Grips - ODI, single lock, blue

Hopefully can break in tomorrow on easy ride, then put to real test on Sunday.


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Anyone know the derrailour#? Went down yesterday and bent the hanger 


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

teethandnails said:


> I am not sure I would recommend using a lower offest fork on the Fuse. It already has a rather steep HT angle.


I personally don't find it steep, but am considering going up in travel from 120mm to 130 or 140, would that change the opinion? I know increasing the travel will increase the wheel base, so I was thinking that decreasing the offset by a little would help mitigate that. I rather like how it handles now, but would like a little more give in the front end, hence the change.


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## frecher (May 6, 2018)

Help! Looking for advice on replacement rear rim for my 2016 Expert. Just as the rain around here might stop (might), I find out my rear rim is cracked in several places around the spoke holes so I am looking around for a solid replacement. A direct replacement would be great or a recommendation for a good substitute. Want to keep the cost down for now so looking to stay aluminum. Heck, I'd even be open to someone's take-offs after they've upgraded.

Here's the official specs of the current rim: WTB Scraper i45 650b, double-wall, 45mm inner width, 18mm deep, TCS tubeless compatible, sleeved, 28h.

The front rim is fine so I'd like to try to stay i45 instead of either running different front to rear or having to buy a matching front rim. The 28 hole seems to be a bit rare, most I've seen run 32. I'd also like to use the existing hub, cassette, and rotor just to keep cost in check.

Thanks!


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

frecher said:


> Heck, I'd even be open to someone's take-offs after they've upgraded.


I have a set of wheels off of a 2018 Comp Carbon (with the actual cartridge bearings, not loose ball) that I removed when I upgraded to Roval Carbon 38's.

They only have ~100 miles on them. Depending on where you are, shipping might be a killer.

Send me a DM if you're interested.


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## frecher (May 6, 2018)

frecher said:


> A direct replacement would be great or a recommendation for a good substitute.


My LBS was only able to find a recommended replacement in a 40mm internal width. Is there anything bad about running a 5mm thinner rim on the back with the 3.0 tire and keeping the 45mm up front or is it recommended to get a whole new matching wheel set?


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

frecher said:


> My LBS was only able to find a recommended replacement in a 40mm internal width. Is there anything bad about running a 5mm thinner rim on the back with the 3.0 tire and keeping the 45mm up front or is it recommended to get a whole new matching wheel set?


You should be fine.
Lots of folks run different size f and r tires (so having difft sized rims would be ok too).

But more specifically, my/2019 Fuses came stock with 38mm ID rims with 3.0 tires.


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

frecher said:


> My LBS was only able to find a recommended replacement in a 40mm internal width. Is there anything bad about running a 5mm thinner rim on the back with the 3.0 tire and keeping the 45mm up front or is it recommended to get a whole new matching wheel set?


I'm running 40mm rims, and sometimes I'll run a 2.6 up front and a 3.0 rear.. runs great no issues

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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

frecher said:


> My LBS was only able to find a recommended replacement in a 40mm internal width. Is there anything bad about running a 5mm thinner rim on the back with the 3.0 tire and keeping the 45mm up front or is it recommended to get a whole new matching wheel set?


45mm rims is one of those products where the market slightly overshot to the extreme just to settle on something more suitable for daily use later on (30-35mm rims)

it is my observation that 40mm rims work great with both 3.0" and 2.8" tires (who you'll mount sooner or later on your Fuse)

So the question here is rather 35mm vs. 40mm rims should you forego 3.0" tires in the near future anyway


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> 45mm rims is one of those products where the market slightly overshot to the extreme just to settle on something more suitable for daily use later on (30-35mm rims)
> 
> it is my observation that 40mm rims work great with both 3.0" and 2.8" tires (who you'll mount sooner or later on your Fuse)
> 
> So the question here is rather 35mm vs. 40mm rims should you forego 3.0" tires in the near future anyway


Ive got 3.0" purg on an i38 and i45 wheel sets. Definitely prefer the i45. There is just more volume and the tire bites better in the turns. IME

but i agree i45 is too wide for a 2.8"


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## frecher (May 6, 2018)

I ended up finding someone's takeoffs so I'm kicking the can down the road for a bit...

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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Anyone happen to see this? New Aluminum frame option for the FUSE, with adjustable dropouts...

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/fuse-m4-frameset/p/171186?color=263260-171186

And now that I look closer, there are new complete 29" options as well...

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/shop/Bikes/Mountain-Bikes/Trail-Bikes/c/mountainTrail?q=%3Aprice-desc%3Aarchived%3Afalse%3AproductFamily%3AFuse&text=#result-list

hmmm....I must have missed a press release somewhere...


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

blaklabl said:


> Anyone happen to see this? New Aluminum frame option for the FUSE, with adjustable dropouts...
> 
> https://www.specialized.com/us/en/fuse-m4-frameset/p/171186?color=263260-171186
> 
> ...


Just saw it, based on your post. Thanks for posting.
Took quick look... The new standalone Fuse frame is what the new Fuse 29s are built on. Head tube slightly slacker at 66.5 (I prefer current/previous 67.5), seat tube angle is same.

What I really do like: Threaded bottom bracket!
(I changed my pf30 to threaded Wheels Mfg on my 2019 Fuse Comp)


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## frecher (May 6, 2018)

kevin_sbay said:


> What I really do like: Threaded bottom bracket!
> (I changed my pf30 to threaded Wheels Mfg on my 2019 Fuse Comp)


I was thinking about the same model for my 2016. Did you have to change anything else to adapt? Cranks?

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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

frecher said:


> I was thinking about the same model for my 2016. Did you have to change anything else to adapt? Cranks?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


No, didn't have to change anything else.
My cranks are stock, Stout Direct Drive.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Here's some better info;

https://dirtragmag.com/articles/the-all-new-specialized-fuse

I am sad to see the carbon version go (I have one) because of the SWAT box more than anything. The trimming of the line to 3 alu models tells me maybe it wasn't the greatest seller in the lineup, but really glad they kept it around and updated it. I am completely happy with mine and have no plans to swap, and like the geometry the way it is for my riding.

What I do find interesting is the move to 29 as the main option...because everything I have read seems to point to the fact that most people prefer it as a 27.5+ bike.


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

There seems to be no xxl anymore. I always complained that mine didnt have enough reach and needed more rear chainstay. So now they fixed it but dropped the size i need. Man....


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## Dorf411 (Jan 21, 2016)

Fuse6F said:


> There seems to be no xxl anymore. I always complained that mine didnt have enough reach and needed more rear chainstay. So now they fixed it but dropped the size i need. Man....


Check out the stack and reach of the XL and compare to old XXL, I was looking last night and thought the XL stack and reach was similar to what the XXL was from my recollection.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

blaklabl said:


> Here's some better info;
> 
> https://dirtragmag.com/articles/the-all-new-specialized-fuse
> 
> I am sad to see the carbon version go (I have one) because of the SWAT box more than anything. The trimming of the line to 3 alu models tells me maybe it wasn't the greatest seller in the lineup, but really glad they kept it around and updated it. I am completely happy with mine and have no plans to swap, and like the geometry the way it is for my riding.


IIRC, it was at least a year after the previous alu models were released before the carbon versions were available. My guess is that sooner than that we'll see carbon models with higher build levels offered.


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## overmyhead (Apr 26, 2017)

double post


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

overmyhead said:


> I also like the way mine handles and fits. I'm 6 ft and ride a 2016 Pro, size large.
> 
> I have mixed feelings about the Plus tires. 3.0 tires feel big in the parking lot offer nice traction & good cushion from hits where it counts but on the trails. A 2.8 in the front feels more nimble. A 2.8 in the rear loses some traction compared to a 3.0 and has a harsher ride.
> 
> As for 29x2.6 wheels, I rode an Ibis Ripley LS and felt like it hit the sweet spot between nimble handling, light weight & comfort. But it's a FS bike. And quite a bit more expensive than a Fuse. I wonder if the new Fuse Expert 29er will have a harsher ride compared to the 27.5+ size models it'll probably end up replacing.


Regarding 3.0 vs 2.8, were you riding the same tire model just different size? Or was the tire model different too?

I'm thinking of putting 2.8 Purgatories on a new set of wheels I just got, and am not sure I'll notice much of difference to my current/stock 3.0 Purgs.


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## overmyhead (Apr 26, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> I am completely happy with mine and have no plans to swap, and like the geometry the way it is for my riding.
> 
> What I do find interesting is the move to 29 as the main option...because everything I have read seems to point to the fact that most people prefer it as a 27.5+ bike.


Other than the mediocre Reba shock, I also like the way my 2016 Fuse Pro handles and fits. I'm 6 ft and ride a size large.

I have mixed feelings about Plus tires. 3.0 tires feel big in the parking lot but offer nice traction & good cushion from hits where it counts - on the trails. A 2.8 in the front feels more nimble than a 3.0. A 2.8 in the rear loses some traction compared to a 3.0 and has a harsher ride.

As for 29x2.6 wheels, I rode an Ibis Ripley LS and felt like the bike hit the sweet spot between nimble handling, light weight & comfort. But it's a FS bike. And quite a bit more expensive than a Fuse. I wonder if the new Fuse Expert 29er will have a harsher ride compared to the 27.5+ size models it'll probably end up replacing.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

overmyhead said:


> Other than the mediocre Reba shock, I also like the way my 2016 Fuse Pro handles and fits.


I feel the same way about the Reba. I tried to like it but it wasn't to be, even with a Charger 2 damper upgrade it didn't suit me. Putting on a Helm Air Works 130 tonight


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## overmyhead (Apr 26, 2017)

kevin_sbay said:


> Regarding 3.0 vs 2.8, were you riding the same tire model just different size? Or was the tire model different too?
> 
> I'm thinking of putting 2.8 Purgatories on a new set of wheels I just got, and am not sure I'll notice much of difference to my current/stock 3.0 Purgs.


Kevin, I just saw your post.
I went from the stock 3.0 Ground Control tires to 2.8 Butcher & Purgatory. Unless I'm riding through rough stuff at speed, the 2.8 is a reasonable compromise for the rear. It has less bounce than the 3.0 but the bounce of the 3.0 in the rear can be controlled by setting the pressure low enough.


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## overmyhead (Apr 26, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> I feel the same way about the Reba. I tried to like it but it wasn't to be, even with a Charger 2 damper upgrade it didn't suit me. Putting on a Helm Air Works 130 tonight


I've considered replacing the Reba with a more capable 140mm fork, but not sure I want to sink another $600 into the bike. For me, the ride of the Ripley LS was at another level, might just want to save my pennies for a FS bike along those lines.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

overmyhead said:


> I've considered replacing the Reba with a more capable 140mm fork, but not sure I want to sink another $600 into the bike. For me, the ride of the Ripley LS was at another level, might just want to save my pennies for a FS bike along those lines.


Fair enough. I, on the other hand, am loving my Fuse and plan to ride it for quite a while - so I went ahead and sank the upgrade $'s into the fork. What a beast compared to the Reba!


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## overmyhead (Apr 26, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> Fair enough. I, on the other hand, am loving my Fuse and plan to ride it for quite a while - so I went ahead and sank the upgrade $'s into the fork. What a beast compared to the Reba!


Was the upgrade transformative? Any downsides? While I do dig my Fuse, hardtails and plus bikes are in the minority where I ride, most riders are on FS bikes.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

overmyhead said:


> Was the upgrade transformative? Any downsides? While I do dig my Fuse, hardtails and plus bikes are in the minority where I ride, most riders are on FS bikes.


To be honest, I just installed it last night and will be heading out for a ride tonight. The driveway/street test says it is much more supple in the initial stroke and way stiffer. Putting it next to the Reba made it look like a toy.

I was having to run my air pressure so low to get suppleness that I was bottoming our a lot. Put in a token or 2, and getting anywhere close to full travel was near impossible. Not to mention overall it just felt dead - and that's even with the damper upgrade to a Charger2.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

blaklabl said:


> To be honest, I just installed it last night and will be heading out for a ride tonight. The driveway/street test says it is much more supple in the initial stroke and way stiffer. Putting it next to the Reba made it look like a toy.
> 
> I was having to run my air pressure so low to get suppleness that I was bottoming our a lot. Put in a token or 2, and getting anywhere close to full travel was near impossible. Not to mention overall it just felt dead - and that's even with the damper upgrade to a Charger2.


I plan on riding my current fuse a long time, too. I recently upgraded the fork to a Rock Shox Yari (35mm stanchions).

The extra stiffness is semi-transformative, ie, the trails and riding style have to allow the extra stiffness to be put to use. On basic trails (most trails), no much difference. When chunkier and (my small) jumps, the increased stiffness is very noticeable and confidence inspiring.

That said, I am learning to ride better too, to stay supple over the bumpy stuff; that is making a difference as well.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

overmyhead said:


> Was the upgrade transformative?


In a word: YES

Smoothest, most active OTT plush fork I've ever ridden (and I've been riding a long time). It certainly begs to hit things aggressively, and rewards that behavior. The stiffness on the trail was immediately noticeable.

Overall, I'm stoked on it.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

I have taken some time off from riding, but am back at it as of this week and before I began riding again, I put on my 29 wheels with 2.3 Fast Tracks front/rear. Holy crap, I forgot how snappy, fast and fun that bike is with the 29 wheels.

I have ridden about 2,000 miles on the stock Fuse 27.5 x 3.0 set up, so it was great to compare the different set ups. I plan on running this in 29er mode for a while and do some 6 & 12 hour endurance events in this configuration. It is great to have a bike so versatile. 

Not going to lie, but I LOVE the new Fuse configuration on the Specialized site. 29 x 2.6 with 12 speed (NX) drive train looks like a winner.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

tjkm said:


> I have taken some time off from riding, but am back at it as of this week and before I began riding again, I put on my 29 wheels with 2.3 Fast Tracks front/rear. Holy crap, I forgot how snappy, fast and fun that bike is with the 29 wheels.
> 
> I have ridden about 2,000 miles on the stock Fuse 27.5 x 3.0 set up, so it was great to compare the different set ups. I plan on running this in 29er mode for a while and do some 6 & 12 hour endurance events in this configuration. It is great to have a bike so versatile.
> 
> Not going to lie, but I LOVE the new Fuse configuration on the Specialized site. 29 x 2.6 with 12 speed (NX) drive train looks like a winner.


Interesting you felt the 29ers snappier. Even at the smaller 2.3, would think 29 would be abt same at 27.5x3.0
But in any case -- Do you miss the inherent suspension of the 3.0? It's hard for me to give up the 3.0 rear wheel, though I will try 2.8 when the current one wears out.

I have a set of 29x2.6's coming. Can wait to swap and experiment with my current 27.5x3.0 purgs, which I have absolutely loved.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

kevin_sbay said:


> Interesting you felt the 29ers snappier. Even at the smaller 2.3, would think 29 would be abt same at 27.5x3.0
> But in any case -- Do you miss the inherent suspension of the 3.0? It's hard for me to give up the 3.0 rear wheel, though I will try 2.8 when the current one wears out.
> 
> I have a set of 29x2.6's coming. Can wait to swap and experiment with my current 27.5x3.0 purgs, which I have absolutely loved.


Don't get me wrong, the bike rides different, and you don't have that cushion you get with the 3.0 tire. I have not tried a 2.8 tire yet as I actually replaced the original Ground Control with another one. I just like that tire!

I am curious if you will clear the 29 2.6 on the rear. I think it will be close, but I think I read much earlier in this thread that someone ran a 2.6 and it worked.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

tjkm said:


> I am curious if you will clear the 29 2.6 on the rear. I think it will be close, but I think I read much earlier in this thread that someone ran a 2.6 and it worked.


Yeah, that would be close. My first set of tires on the 29s will be in the 2.2-2.3 range.

At this point, I'm going for a diversity of experience. I LOVE my 27.5x3.0 Purgs but want firsthand knowledge of what various setups ride like.


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

I was running a 2.6 slaughter and 2.6 butcher.. I just put back a Purgatory 3.0 in the rear and kept the butcher up front. It rides great and I have better rear braking, I wouldn’t run 3.0 too slow and sluggish with the stock wheels


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Bassballer150 said:


> I was running a 2.6 slaughter and 2.6 butcher.. I just put back a Purgatory 3.0 in the rear and kept the butcher up front. It rides great and I have better rear braking, I wouldn't run 3.0 too slow and sluggish with the stock wheels
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So you are running a 3.0" rear with a 2.6" front??


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> So you are running a 3.0" rear with a 2.6" front??


Yes , on DT Swiss xm551/ 370 hubs

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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Bassballer150 said:


> Yes , on DT Swiss xm551/ 370 hubs
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Oh I'd love a picture of that


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## WvMTBC (May 8, 2019)

what size bottom bracket do i Need? I am going to order the SRAM DUB BSA Bottom Bracket to go with the NX crankset for my 2018 specialized fuse comp.

THe size option for the bottom bracket at 68/73(one option) and 100mm(second option). Does the 68/73 fit the fuse body?


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

You want 68/73. 100mm is for a fat bike.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

WvMTBC said:


> what size bottom bracket do i Need? I am going to order the SRAM DUB BSA Bottom Bracket to go with the NX crankset for my 2018 specialized fuse comp.
> 
> THe size option for the bottom bracket at 68/73(one option) and 100mm(second option). Does the 68/73 fit the fuse body?


Curious why are you changing your bottom bracket? Is it because it creaks?
Is the SRAM DUB BSA threaded? 
I might have missed smthg you posted earlier, but if you're changing bb's, overall very good to go with threaded.


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## Toddzilla (Nov 27, 2016)

Doing an experiment with my fuse. I previously had a Santa Cruz Blur that I sold the frame but still had the components. A friend asked what the bike weighed and I noted it was about 25.2 with pedals (carbon frame, pike, 29s, XT/XTR build).

Then I started to think about what it would weigh if I swapped some parts. 

I swapped:
Pike for step cast 34
GX cassette for TRS race
2.6 rekon/minion SS for 2.35 forekasters
Removed SWAT tool

It’s now down to 22.75 lb without pedals. The lowest I think I could get it down to is about 22 even by swapping cranks and going from XT to XTR brakes.

Pretty damn good for a trail geometry hard tail.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Toddzilla said:


> Doing an experiment with my fuse. I previously had a Santa Cruz Blur that I sold the frame but still had the components. A friend asked what the bike weighed and I noted it was about 25.2 with pedals (carbon frame, pike, 29s, XT/XTR build).
> 
> Then I started to think about what it would weigh if I swapped some parts.
> 
> ...


Funny you bring up weight, I got mine back from having the SRAM brakes replaced under warranty and my 90-day tune up, so my SWAT storage was empty and I decided to hang it up from the good old fishing scale for a true weight...26lbs, 14oz. Not terrible at all, and I am not running light tires or a light dropper, or really anything svelte except for the carbon frame and carbon Roval wheels. Standard GX Eagle drivetrain, Aeffect cranks, Helm Works 130 fork (almost 1lb heavier than the stock Reba), aluminum bars, lower end Shimano clipless pedals. If I really wanted to throw some money at it I could get it down closer to 25# but for right now I'm pretty stoked on it.


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## noose (Feb 11, 2004)

My Fattie is a little less fat and getting a smoking new fork in the next week. Since I brought it up to BC from Phoenix and had 29" wheels built for it etc. I call it the 'BC Edition' like Rocky Mountain special builds. I'll post pics and details soon.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

noose said:


> My Fattie is a little less fat and getting a smoking new fork in the next week. Since I brought it up to BC from Phoenix and had 29" wheels built for it etc. I call it the 'BC Edition' like Rocky Mountain special builds. I'll post pics and details soon.


I'm interested to hear more about your build...


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

My 16 fuse frame is up for sale if anyone is interested, comes with fsa headset and wheels man BB


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Can I get some pics, info, feedback on taking a 27.5+ Fuse to a 29"er? There isn't a bunch of info on this thread (surprisingly) so I thought I would ask again. I have a 2018 Comp Carbon and would like to know how big of a rear tire I can get in there with minimal rubbing, is it a positive change, etc?

I know the stats say it will take up to a 2.3/2.5 tire, but with so many being undersized will it take a Specialized 2.6? Or a Maxxis Recon-ish 2.6 tire? I don't hate the plus setup at all but having the option for the more XC-ish rides I do might be nice. 

Just curious, thanks for any info and pics would be even better.


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## noose (Feb 11, 2004)

blaklabl said:


> Can I get some pics, info, feedback on taking a 27.5+ Fuse to a 29"er? There isn't a bunch of info on this thread (surprisingly) so I thought I would ask again. I have a 2018 Comp Carbon and would like to know how big of a rear tire I can get in there with minimal rubbing, is it a positive change, etc?
> 
> I know the stats say it will take up to a 2.3/2.5 tire, but with so many being undersized will it take a Specialized 2.6? Or a Maxxis Recon-ish 2.6 tire? I don't hate the plus setup at all but having the option for the more XC-ish rides I do might be nice.
> 
> Just curious, thanks for any info and pics would be even better.


I have a 29x2.6 specialized eliminator as a rear tire on 30mm internal rims with plenty of room.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

noose said:


> I have a 29x2.6 specialized eliminator as a rear tire on 30mm internal rims with plenty of room.


I sent you a PM, can you hit me back?


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> Can I get some pics, info, feedback on taking a 27.5+ Fuse to a 29"er? There isn't a bunch of info on this thread (surprisingly) so I thought I would ask again.


You'll find a few cases of 27.5 > 29 here, but you'll have to wade through 143 pages of German to find the useful nuggets. I do remember that there are photos quite recently showing frame clearances etc.

https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/specialized-fuse-ruze.844594/page-143

Good luck, and call out if I can help translate anything.... but deepl does a pretty good job so I'm sure it'll (mostly) make sense.


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## jumble1982 (May 1, 2019)

Hey all, I got my fuze expert 2017 2 years ago and loving it. I am.looking to upgrade the chain groupset to a sram nx eagle with dub bb, anyone had any luck with this?


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

jumble1982 said:


> Hey all, I got my fuze expert 2017 2 years ago and loving it. I am.looking to upgrade the chain groupset to a sram nx eagle with dub bb, anyone had any luck with this?


I have a 2016 expert and had my LBS order me an NX eagle 170mm crankset as well as the the bottom bracket to match my bike. I needed to upgrade since I somehow managed to bend the stout crankset that came with it. I was digging the shorter crank arms on my stumpy, so sprung for the 170mm cranks for my fuse.


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## NEastUnlmtd (Aug 25, 2016)

Please talk me out of cheaping out on this Ebay fork, fitment problems, recommendations, other suggestions, warnings welcome! For my 16 Fuse comp currently running hose clamp and inner tube rigged up rigid guttted Santour fork. Not the best or safest thing given I am a Clyde at 260

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suntour-Ra...EiW:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!92553!US!-1&LH_BIN=1


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

No more fuse

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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Back in the 3.0 club, at least on the front. The reduction in trail chatter is undeniable, 2.8 doesn't even come close.

I may go back to a 3" on the back as well, going to give this setup a few rides first.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

blaklabl said:


> Back in the 3.0 club, at least on the front. The reduction in trail chatter is undeniable, 2.8 doesn't even come close.


Interesting and thanks for the update.
What tire pressure did u run/test with the 2.8? And what pressure do u use with the 3.0?

FYI I've been eager to test with 2.8 on my bike too but haven't yet (bottom bracket height concerns).


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

kevin_sbay said:


> Interesting and thanks for the update.
> What tire pressure did u run/test with the 2.8? And what pressure do u use with the 3.0?
> 
> FYI I've been eager to test with 2.8 on my bike too but haven't yet (bottom bracket height concerns).


With the 2.8 I was running 17f/19r. I run that 3.0 purg up front at about 14.

I put on shorter cranks to offset any drop in BB height from the tires, and I'll leave them on now with the front about 3/8ths taller than the rear. Clearance helps in the rocks.


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## mark! (Jun 1, 2012)

Brought home a Specialized Fuse today. Hit up a quick 5 mile trail ride after leaving the bike shop and holy hell I can't believe I waited so long to jump on the 27.5+ train. I have a few changes I'm looking in to for the future; I wanna get a 1x11 Box One drivetrain and maybe throw on a Fox Fork if I feel the Recon starts letting me down. I've already swapped out the Tektro craptastic brakes with Shimano M6000's. That was my first cable cut, internal route and bleed job so that was an adventure on its own.


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## NEastUnlmtd (Aug 25, 2016)

I am sourcing a Der Hanger and mech for 17 Fuse Comp. Any suggestions? Much appreciated, it's a Pilo D738 from what I have found. Any other ways to go? Trying to get 1 of 3 broken bikes going!


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

So I've had about 9 months on my 19' alloy fuse expert and still love it. I've been running mostly stock but added an MRP ramp control and a plush chromag seat. Other than that no changes. I run my 3.0 purgs at about 12-13 psi. And that feels mostly great but have experienced some inexplicable front end washouts. I think the front is so wide that while it can go over stuff easily it leaves little room for error on an undulating trail so hitting a line even slight wrong can cause issues. I'm thinking of trying 2.8's, or at least a 2.8 in the front.

Any further testimony's on 2.8's? And what about carbon rims - would they cause too much harshness or are they a game changer on this bike for the better? 

I'm thinking I'll get a second set of rims and keep my 3.0's as is so I can quickly put them on when there's a bit of snow on the ground etc.

Also I'm tossing between 2.8 butchers and Maxxis ( DHF/DHR combo ). 

Appreciate any feedback.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Mtbvkk said:


> So I've had about 9 months on my 19' alloy fuse expert and still love it. I've been running mostly stock but added an MRP ramp control and a plush chromag seat. Other than that no changes. I run my 3.0 purgs at about 12-13 psi. And that feels mostly great but have experienced some inexplicable front end washouts. I think the front is so wide that while it can go over stuff easily it leaves little room for error on an undulating trail so hitting a line even slight wrong can cause issues. I'm thinking of trying 2.8's, or at least a 2.8 in the front.
> 
> Any further testimony's on 2.8's? And what about carbon rims - would they cause too much harshness or are they a game changer on this bike for the better?
> 
> ...


I have a 2018 Carbon Comp. Here is my experience.

I upgraded to carbon Roval wheels within the first month, and while they are much stiffer I now have adjusted to them and the bike is a rocket.

Also when I went with the Carbon wheels, I thought I'd lighten the bike up further with 2.8's. While it did lighten the bike up a bunch (I think it was a little below 26lbs), I grew to miss the chatter reduction of the 3.0's as the narrower and higher volume tires made the wheels feel even more stiff. I am now happily back to fully plus size and couldn't be happier. I find that my preferred psi are 15f and 17r, anything below that I get tire roll in hard turns. I may at some point try a cushcore, but hopefully they will come up with something lighter so I am holding off.

So to recap, I love my carbon wheels but with 3.0 tires. YMMV.


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> I have a 2018 Carbon Comp. Here is my experience.
> 
> I upgraded to carbon Roval wheels within the first month, and while they are much stiffer I now have adjusted to them and the bike is a rocket.
> 
> ...


Thanks!


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Mtbvkk said:


> Thanks!


No problem, and I should have said "higher psi tires", regarding the swap to 2.8's on the carbon rims. I was closer to 20psi on the narrower tires to not have rim strikes.


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> No problem, and I should have said "higher psi tires", regarding the swap to 2.8's on the carbon rims. I was closer to 20psi on the narrower tires to not have rim strikes.


Wow, that high - I was hoping to run 2.8's at 15-16

but I might just try them with my alloy rims first given your experience


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Some people around here swear they are running 10psi, I just don’t see it. I also weight 200lb ready to ride, so someone lighter could get away with lower psi.

Tires aren’t made to be run damn-near flat, regardless of what some people claim.


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

New setup! I'll miss you guys lol

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## NEastUnlmtd (Aug 25, 2016)

NEastUnlmtd said:


> I am sourcing a Der Hanger and mech for 17 Fuse Comp. Any suggestions? Much appreciated, it's a Pilo D738 from what I have found. Any other ways to go? Trying to get 1 of 3 broken bikes going!


Wheels Man derailleur Hanger 301 is my guess.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

A little bit of an update;

I have been needing a little bit more rise and reach out of my front end, and at 40mm rise bars and a bunch of spacers under the stem I was starting to run out of options.

So...I took one of the favorite parts of my SS that I am parting out, the cockpit, and put it onto the fuse to see how I like it.

Custom Defiance Frameworks titanium "klunker bars", cut to 31", 4" rise, with my Paul Components 7/8ths Boxcar stem (50mm). I was able to get the stem down a bit (and it's slightly longer than the stock stem), and the bars up about 1" from where they were. Now, the bars do have more sweep than the Renthals, but it already feels better just rolling around to get the levers right. I'll know more after I get it out for a ride this evening.

I've also always dug the classic klunker look, so these bars fit in well .


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## Upstate_Dunadan (Sep 2, 2019)

I just picked up a 2019 Fuse Comp 27.5+ (same as 6Fattie from what I've read) and really am loving it. The only thing I've updated are the pedals to grippier OneUp Components Composites. 

I just got back from 3 days riding Kingdom Trails in VT with the family (wife and 2 kids - 12 and 9) and this bike did great. My main focus was my wife and kids so didn't have much chance to cut loose but I did break away twice on my own to bit Sidewinder and Troll Stroll on my own (first run was with the family done nice and slow). 

Sidewinder - was a blast. Hold on and don't stop. I think I bottomed out my front shock on one decent but otherwise it did great.

Troll Stroll - last ride of the visit. I decided to just let the bike go and boy was it fun. The bike took the berms without any issue and just flowed down the path going over roots and stuff like they weren't there. I felt comfortable enough that I even tried to catch some air in a few places. Not bad for a 49 year old who hasn't been on a bike much in the last 30 years. I credit 4 years of Cross Fit for this (yes I said it). 

A few times I did wish I had a slightly lower and higher gear, but mostly I am more than happy with this bike without any mods and can't wait to take it out again.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Dope


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## NEastUnlmtd (Aug 25, 2016)

This went from $99 to $399. No way! Still glad I chose not to buy it. Still looking for a suggestion on the economical side sorta... thanks!!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suntour-Rai...%21-1&LH_BIN=1


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## Ral83178 (Sep 25, 2007)

Hey guys (and gals), 

I just got a new to me 17' Fuse Comp and have to say it is a lot more fun than I thought it would be. I've been off the bike for about 3 years and sold my Lynskey Pro29 as i just didn't have time to ride with kids, work etc....

Okay, so I want to lighten the load here a little bit and just can't get a good handle on if normal cranks like XT's fit these fattie's or not and what type of fork and hubs (boost/ non boost). I've attempted to contact Specialized but that is a lost cause as it goes to VM.

My goal is to upgrade the following:
Cranks seem heavy but maybe they aren't that bad
Rear Cassette
Possible Fork - is the suntour much better than the Machete?
Possible wheels - have them set up as tubeless as of now.

What else am i missing? I did google and there is not a lot to find but feel free to shoot me a link if there is one that helped you


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Ral83178 said:


> Hey guys (and gals),
> 
> I just got a new to me 17' Fuse Comp and have to say it is a lot more fun than I thought it would be. I've been off the bike for about 3 years and sold my Lynskey Pro29 as i just didn't have time to ride with kids, work etc....
> 
> ...


Congrats on the purchase, you're going to love it. One of the most capable bikes out there. Out of curiosity, what does it weigh now?

You can throw a lot of money at it and lose a pound or two, but I'd just ask if you think you'll enjoy it more? There are of course a lot of little things you can do (you listed a bunch above) and trim here and there, but it will be expensive.

To add context, I'm running a carbon frame Fuse with carbon Roval wheels, Helm Works fork, and mine still weighs 28lbs! A lot of that is still the 3.0 tires (at 1100g each), but I have done the "size down to 2.8" thing to save a pound and didn't really like the smaller size and went back to the stock ones.

YMMV, but I'd suggest you just ride the sh*t out of it and not obsess over the weight.


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## noose (Feb 11, 2004)

Turned my Fuse into a bit of a brawler. The reduced offset Bomber Z2 130mm x 34mm takeoff fork is awesome on this bike. The XT brakes/ drivetrain and i9 101 hubs on my 30mm internal rims and maxxis rubber are also very good. Fox 125mm Transfer dropper works well on my medium frame. I haven't cut the fork steerer because I am flirting with adding an angleset to slack it out a bit. Any suggestions?


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## Ral83178 (Sep 25, 2007)

blaklabl said:


> Congrats on the purchase, you're going to love it. One of the most capable bikes out there. Out of curiosity, what does it weigh now?
> 
> You can throw a lot of money at it and lose a pound or two, but I'd just ask if you think you'll enjoy it more? There are of course a lot of little things you can do (you listed a bunch above) and trim here and there, but it will be expensive.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply. Yeah, the bike is great as it is thus far but deep inside i like to make some things my own on the cheap. Really just trying to see what the hell fits these things as i'm new to the wider BB (it seems).

As it is stock in a Large size, it's 31Lbs which is not all that bad for all the material and the tires. pretty sure i could get down to sub 29 or 30 for a few hundred bucks.

tom


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Ral83178 said:


> Thanks for the reply. Yeah, the bike is great as it is thus far but deep inside i like to make some things my own on the cheap. Really just trying to see what the hell fits these things as i'm new to the wider BB (it seems).
> 
> As it is stock in a Large size, it's 31Lbs which is not all that bad for all the material and the tires. pretty sure i could get down to sub 29 or 30 for a few hundred bucks.
> 
> tom


BB width should be the same (not a fat bike shell) but I believe yours comes with a BB30 as opposed to threaded. I'm not expert on those but from a width perspective you should be fine as long as you get a crankset specified as BB30.


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## Ral83178 (Sep 25, 2007)

blaklabl said:


> BB width should be the same (not a fat bike shell) but I believe yours comes with a BB30 as opposed to threaded. I'm not expert on those but from a width perspective you should be fine as long as you get a crankset specified as BB30.


Thank you.

Probably start with cranks and cassette, Ti or Carbon bars and stem.

Cheers, 
tom in NC


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## Jonilink (Jun 29, 2019)

noose said:


> View attachment 1277629
> 
> 
> Turned my Fuse into a bit of a brawler. The reduced offset Bomber Z2 130mm x 34mm takeoff fork is awesome on this bike. The XT brakes/ drivetrain and i9 101 hubs on my 30mm internal rims and maxxis rubber are also very good. Fox 125mm Transfer dropper works well on my medium frame. I haven't cut the fork steerer because I am flirting with adding an angleset to slack it out a bit. Any suggestions?
> ...


I was JUST looking at those rims what size tires do you have on them? currently I'd be putting on 27.5x2.8 but I hear with 2.8 with I want to go wider like 35mm.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

This thread needs more "Fuse in Action" photos....


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## noose (Feb 11, 2004)

Jonilink said:


> I was JUST looking at those rims what size tires do you have on them? currently I'd be putting on 27.5x2.8 but I hear with 2.8 with I want to go wider like 35mm.


These are actually 29" rims with a DHF 2.5 WT front Aggressor 2.5 rear. Yes for 2.8 tires you want min 35mm internal rims but I would go 40-45mm.


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## oKayH (May 25, 2013)

Selling my Fuse. Will sell it either 1) frame only 2) frame and wheels only, or 3) complete.

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2629386/


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## rockychrysler (Aug 9, 2003)

blaklabl said:


> This thread needs more "Fuse in Action" photos....


Right on!


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## WvMTBC (May 8, 2019)

I have a 2018 FUse Comp with the manitou fork that has been up and down for me. How do I find what compatible forks would my 27.5 3.0 setup on the 2018 fuse? 

Would a fox 34 work? What specific model?


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## Jw2108 (Sep 14, 2019)

Going to hop in with more fork questions...:eekster:

Im looking to upgrade the fork on my 2018 comp6 fattie as well. Was interested in the marzocchi bomber Z2. I haven't had much luck in finding if the 29 fork will accommodate a 27.5 3.0 tire?

thanks for any input!


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Jw2108 said:


> Going to hop in with more fork questions...:eekster:
> 
> Im looking to upgrade the fork on my 2018 comp6 fattie as well. Was interested in the marzocchi bomber Z2. I haven't had much luck in finding if the 29 fork will accommodate a 27.5 3.0 tire?
> 
> thanks for any input!


I upgraded mine a few months ago, and went with the Cane creek HELM Works 130, which is 27.5+ / 29 compatible. I couldn't be happier. I think most newer 29"er forks will accommodate a 275 x 2.8 tire, but the 3" clearance is usually specified, so I'd keep looking for confirmation before pulling the trigger.


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## noose (Feb 11, 2004)

blaklabl said:


> I upgraded mine a few months ago, and went with the Cane creek HELM Works 130, which is 27.5+ / 29 compatible. I couldn't be happier. I think most newer 29"er forks will accommodate a 275 x 2.8 tire, but the 3" clearance is usually specified, so I'd keep looking for confirmation before pulling the trigger.


I'm running a marzocchi bomber Z2 130mm 29/27.5+ on my Fuse but only with my 29x2.6" wheels. I'll mount up my stock 27.5+ 3" set when I get home next week but I am thinking it will fit fine.


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## Jw2108 (Sep 14, 2019)

Thank you guys for the quick replies! Looking forward to hearing what you think after mounting the 3.0 tire. Ill keep digging into their site for info... or maybe ill just email them and see what they have to say! Thank you again! Greatly appreciated!


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

noose said:


> I'm running a marzocchi bomber Z2 130mm 29/27.5+ on my Fuse but only with my 29x2.6" wheels. I'll mount up my stock 27.5+ 3" set when I get home next week but I am thinking it will fit fine.


I'd love to meet up when you get back to AZ and possibly try out your 29x2.6 wheels in my Fuse before I take the plunge?


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## noose (Feb 11, 2004)

blaklabl said:


> I'd love to meet up when you get back to AZ and possibly try out your 29x2.6 wheels in my Fuse before I take the plunge?


Sure that should be fine. What part of the city are you in?


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

noose said:


> Sure that should be fine. What part of the city are you in?


I'm in Cave Creek but I'll drive to wherever


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Who’s running. Theirs as a single speed?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Is anyone running their Fuse (1st gen, pre-2020) with 27.5 x 2.6 tires, and did it lower your BB too much? I have an extra set of wheels kicking around and was thinking of doing a 2.6 set just for S&G. Pics appreciated.


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## overmyhead (Apr 26, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> Is anyone running their Fuse (1st gen, pre-2020) with 27.5 x 2.6 tires, and did it lower your BB too much? I have an extra set of wheels kicking around and was thinking of doing a 2.6 set just for S&G. Pics appreciated.


I was interested in trying 2.6 tires, but my LBS guy said the BB would be too low for the rocky trails around here.


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## Topgear24 (Jan 2, 2018)

Wrong thread


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

blaklabl said:


> I'd love to meet up when you get back to AZ and possibly try out your 29x2.6 wheels in my Fuse before I take the plunge?


Curious were you able to try the 29x2.6? Thoughts?

FYI, my 29 wheelset just arrived, and putting the tires (2.3) and rotors next few days and hopefully a real ride soon. Though bummer that my lingering cold/cough has not been good to whatever fitness I had before.


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

OK, I am now running 29er rims on the Fuse. Found a set of RaceFace Aeffect R30 wheels at a decent price. 30mm internal width, set up for tubeless. Had 27.5 x 40mm with 3" Purgatory's. I felt the 27.5 to be a little draggy maybe, thought a higher bottom bracket would be nice also. 
2.5 Minion DHF up front because I had it on hand. Ordered a 2.6 Rekon for the rear. 
3 rides on it now. Most noticeable difference was the front end now coming up a little climbing the steeper stuff, not a problem. 
Next thing was how the Minion up front grabs the off camber stuff. My 3rd ride had me pushing pretty hard through the turns as my confidence increased. That 3rd ride was a blast! Rekon on the back just followed along doing its job with uphill traction, cornering, and braking. 
The bike seemed to roll a little better. This summer we had more rain and the gumbo here is awful. Fitness down a bit from the norm, Strava has my times comparing to 3years ago when my fitness level was better. 
1st ride was with the hounds on punchy roller coaster, flowy, fairly smooth. 
2nd ride, lot of technical, tight turns, punchy very short climbs/descents, shale, river rock, loose over hard. 
3rd ride was an extension of the 1st. The added portion is like middle ground between 1st and 2nd ride. Had a day's rest and it all gelled that ride. Super fun, big grin.
I want to try a Rekon 2.6 up front. Rain and snow today, trails wet again, more rain in the forecast for this weekend
This winter the entire drive train will be replaced with Shimano 11 speed. Running the Sram GX 10 speed now.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

kevin_sbay said:


> Curious were you able to try the 29x2.6? Thoughts?
> .


No, I have not heard back from him.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

blaklabl said:


> No, I have not heard back from him.


Will PM you in a few minutes. 
I'm too far away for you to borrow anything but maybe potential solution.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Can't exactly make out the Fuse in this shot, but trust me, that's me on the left, on my Fuse. This was this past Saturday...dawn patrol and a quick little ride across a field, before jumping into the woods and hitting some classic northern New Jersey rock gardens. As a roadie, I don't ride my MTB much during the road season, but after yesterday... my brain has made the switch for the off-season and it's all I can think about.

Have some tail 29'er wheels coming on Tuesday and I'm anxious to see how the bike feels with almost 2 pounds less of rotating weight.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Topgear24 said:


> View attachment 1287429


That is a Stumpjumper 6Fattie... this thread is aimed at the Fuse 6Fattie. 6Fattie being the wheel/tire setup that Specialized developed that was 27.5x3", slightly fatter than normal 27.5+ and swappable to 29'er.

That is definitely a bad ass bike, but I'd be careful taking lots of advice from this thread as the frame geometry's, I think, are pretty different between the Fuse and Stumpjumper. The Fuse was developed around a 120mm fork and I think the Stumpie is 140-150mm.


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## Topgear24 (Jan 2, 2018)

CrankAddictRich said:


> That is a Stumpjumper 6Fattie... this thread is aimed at the Fuse 6Fattie. 6Fattie being the wheel/tire setup that Specialized developed that was 27.5x3", slightly fatter than normal 27.5+ and swappable to 29'er.
> 
> That is definitely a bad ass bike, but I'd be careful taking lots of advice from this thread as the frame geometry's, I think, are pretty different between the Fuse and Stumpjumper. The Fuse was developed around a 120mm fork and I think the Stumpie is 140-150mm.


Thanks for the heads up just notice I post in the wrong sub forum!


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

CrankAddictRich said:


> Have some tail 29'er wheels coming on Tuesday and I'm anxious to see how the bike feels with almost 2 pounds less of rotating weight.


I just put some 29x2.3 testers on my 2019 Fuse, originally 27x3.0's which I love and will still ride.
No real rides yet on the 29s, but from just putzing around and some small jumps/drops, what I like the most is the greater feel of the ground when rolling thanks to the higher pressure and less rubber. The obvious down/flipside is landings and bumps are harsher. And I'm sure I'll be a bit bummed losing traction on the steepest climbs.

Overall, each wheel is about 1 lb lighter. 3.0's have lots of rubber!


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

where I live in NJ, if I go south, the trails are a little tamer, more XC-ish... and if I go north, they're a little chunkier and full of rock gardens. I think I'll still use the 27.5x3" setup on the north days and have the 29'er set up for the faster, XC days. My neighbor got a set of 29'ers for his Chameleon and when I test road it, the bike felt noticeably crisper in acceleration and rolling. I also loved the roll-over of the 29'er wheel when I had my Enduro 29'er last year.


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## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

Aloha. I set mine up for bikepacking. On the handlebar is my tent and water filtering stuff. Some food goes in to there. On the seat pack is my sleeping bag and pad. In the small frame bag is my extra tube and tools and parts for the bike. 2 water bottles forward of the frame bag and one on the bottom of the down tube. The fork lowers is my cook set and pot(s) as well as more food and stuff. Oh. And top tube bag is snacks and other little things.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

kevin_sbay said:


> I just put some 29x2.3 testers on my 2019 Fuse, originally 27x3.0's which I love and will still ride.
> No real rides yet on the 29s, but from just putzing around and some small jumps/drops, what I like the most is the greater feel of the ground when rolling thanks to the higher pressure and less rubber. The obvious down/flipside is landings and bumps are harsher. And I'm sure I'll be a bit bummed losing traction on the steepest climbs.
> 
> Overall, each wheel is about 1 lb lighter. 3.0's have lots of rubber!


I have been running my 2018 Carbon Comp in 29 x 2.3 mode for about 5-6 months now with Fast Tracks front/rear. I recently did a 12 hour overnight race and put down 108 miles and was really pleased with how the bike felt.

The bike still climbs well, and I find my self taking the same lines desceding that I would take with the 3.0 tires, which I feel like I can point at just about anything and ride through/over.

I think you will like the feel of the 2.3's.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

I've bought my 2015 Fuse Comp 6Fattie in Sept. of 2017. After one year, I ditched the stock wheels and picked up a set of Industry 9 Backcountry 450 wheels.










They are great wheels and 45mm width really makes the 3.0" tires square and confidence inspiring. It is a great setup for monster trucking over chunky and super technical terrain.

Every once in a while, I hit a trail system that isn't chunky and technical and is much faster, flow, more cross-country single track and I've always found it hard to chase my friends that were on fast 29'er setups. I recently picked up a set of relatively inexpensive Stan's Arch 29'er wheels and set them up with 2.3" Fast Trak tires.



















I'm super impressed with the feel of the 29'er setup. The bike has a much different feel. It feels so much faster. I was a little worried that I'd miss the traction of the 3" tires, but in the two rides I've done so far, it doesn't feel any different on the short punchy climbs I've hit. As I thought about it, the truth is, the contact patch is probably still the same in over all size, its just skinnier and longer on the 29'er set up vs. shorter and wider on the 27.5+ set up.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Has anyone found a good, clean, almost factory looking solution for chain slap on the Fuse?


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

CrankAddictRich said:


> Has anyone found a good, clean, almost factory looking solution for chain slap on the Fuse?


I just went with a lizard skin chain stay protector. It just velcro's around the chain stay and no more chain slap noise. When I purchased the bike, I honestly did not notice the lack of protection there, but after a few rides, picked up the lizard skin and have had no issues.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

tjkm said:


> I just went with a lizard skin chain stay protector. It just velcro's around the chain stay and no more chain slap noise. When I purchased the bike, I honestly did not notice the lack of protection there, but after a few rides, picked up the lizard skin and have had no issues.


It looks like the Lizard Skin is offered in a few different sizes to cover different circumferences of chain stay... Do you, by any chance, remember the size you ordered? Are you on a carbon Fuse or alloy?


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

CrankAddictRich said:


> Has anyone found a good, clean, almost factory looking solution for chain slap on the Fuse?


Neoprene and cable ties... the cable ties compensate for the fact that the stay width varies and the neoprene looks stretched / wrinkled without some kind of stablisation.


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## [email protected] (Apr 24, 2017)

CrankAddictRich said:


> Has anyone found a good, clean, almost factory looking solution for chain slap on the Fuse?


I made a custom piece from industrial strength velcro(from homedepot) that runs the lenght of the chainstay. I went this route since I couldn't find anything out there that would work well with the diamond section of the chainstay. I have had it on the bike for about 3 years now, but have had to add a few zip ties over the years to keep it going. I guess I could make a new piece to make it look clean again, but the bike is so beat to hell now that it doesn't matter haha. It looked really really good for a while though.


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## CrankAddictRich (Oct 7, 2016)

Thanks guys... I ended up ordering the LizardSkins chain slap protector. I got it yesterday and the fit is pretty decent. I went with the large size and actually it isn't quite large enough, so you really have to stretch it tight to fit. Looks pretty good and the bike was definitely quite today.


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## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

CrankAddictRich said:


> Thanks guys... I ended up ordering the LizardSkins chain slap protector. I got it yesterday and the fit is pretty decent. I went with the large size and actually it isn't quite large enough, so you really have to stretch it tight to fit. Looks pretty good and the bike was definitely quite today.


Aloha,

Just saw this. I used Mastic tape. It's great, sticks really well and is rubbery and molds to different shapes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B1AP3O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## muzicman (Aug 28, 2009)

*NBD!!! S-Works Fuse*

So after quite some time lurking on this site while trying to decide between buying a Stache, Fuse, Chameleon, DV9, Sync'r, Transition Throttle/Vanquish or Orbea Laufey to replace my Giant XTC Advanced with a more current geometry; I bought a 2018 new old stock S-Works Fuse.

This is the model with the Ohlin fork, RSC carbon 4 piston brakes, XX1 drivetrain and the 38mm Roval Traverse carbon wheels. Full on bling.

Took it out of the box, put my pedals and was surprised how heavy it felt; 26.8#. This is a pound more than my 2020 Niner Jet Nine RDO weighs! And with tubeless setup. Those 3" tires are serously heavy!

So I stripped it down leaving only the frame, dropper, bars, XX1 cranks and the brakes then added.....

XO 11 spd drivetrain(1195 cassette), 29er carbon wheels 30mm inner (hope rear hub/SRAM front hub)
Bontrager XR3 2.6 tires, Rockshox RS-1 fork at 120mm travel (having the Ohlin upgraded to the EVO model, pushing it to 140 travel and putting it on my Jet) Ergon GS1 grips, Bontrager saddle, 2020 XT pedals.

Check out the pics. Everyone's always asking re clearance; 1/4 between the frame and the 2.6 tire in back. I like the 11 speed for the weight savings and the shorter deraileur arm. 30 tooth eliptical chainring.

Now the scale says 23.2 pounds; more like it; and the bike has the same geometry as my Jet9.

Rode it today, getting it sorted out; I think it's going to be great.












View attachment 1296963
View attachment 1296963


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

CrankAddictRich said:


> It looks like the Lizard Skin is offered in a few different sizes to cover different circumferences of chain stay... Do you, by any chance, remember the size you ordered? Are you on a carbon Fuse or alloy?


Sorry, just saw this. I just pulled one off the shelf at the LBS and went on my way. Looks like you got it worked out.


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## muzicman (Aug 28, 2009)

Just put on my 27.5+ wheels with Rocket Rons. Now it's 24# with a 120 Pike on it and I'm in love!
The RR's weigh a pound and a quarter less per tire than the Specialized tires that came on it.


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## muzicman (Aug 28, 2009)

Just put on my 27.5+ wheels with Rocket Rons. Now it's 24# with a 120 Pike on it and I'm in love!
The RR's weigh a pound and a quarter less per tire than the Specialized tires that came on it. 

Loving the low center of gravity. Felt very tall with 29er setup.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

muzicman said:


> Just put on my 27.5+ wheels with Rocket Rons. Now it's 24# with a 120 Pike on it and I'm in love!
> The RR's weigh a pound and a quarter less per tire than the Specialized tires that came on it.


What size Rocket Rons? Width.


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## muzicman (Aug 28, 2009)

3.0 in front, 2.8 rear.

My 2.8 had a long sidewall partial tearfrom running when it wasn't fully seated. It went flat yesterday so I put in a tube. Today I filled it way up with my compressor to make sure it seated; they fit very loosely. Anyway, I blew the tire and tube up. It bulged where the sidewall tear was and went off like bullet next to my hand. 

So I just ordered a fat b nimble in a 3.5, which will measure 3.0 for the rear. I like light weight rear tires!


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## Ride_2_Fast (Jan 15, 2006)

Hi Fuse owners,
just picked second hand 2018 Fuse carbon frame and will be building it up.
For seatpost ... seems frame comes with reducer shim from 34.9mm to 30.9mm.
I was able to remove the sleeve and carbon tube is 34.9mm.
Original OEM post was 30.9mm TransX in sleeve.

What wis better option? ... going with 34.9 or 30.9mm? 
Factors: weight, stiffness, durability and price?

Which ones are you guys running (mostly asking carbon models owners), but any advice appreciated. Thanks


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

I have a 2018 Carbon Fuse and I upgraded to a 34.9mm BikeYoke Revive MAX. No flex, bigger upper tube, smooth operation, totally worth the $. There is a great article on NSMB right now talking about 34.9 should be the standard, it’s worth a read.


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## Ride_2_Fast (Jan 15, 2006)

Thanks do you mind linking the article... did search .. there is something called nsmb.com but really never heard about that before... link appreciated... thanks


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Ride_2_Fast said:


> Thanks do you mind linking the article... did search .. there is something called nsmb.com but really never heard about that before... link appreciated... thanks


https://nsmb.com/articles/why-all-dropper-posts-should-be-349/


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## Irongrave (Mar 16, 2012)

Joining the family, This came home with me yesterday, first carbon bike and first + bike. Can't wait to get out and put some miles on it.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Irongrave said:


> Joining the family, This came home with me yesterday, first carbon bike and first + bike. Can't wait to get out and put some miles on it.
> 
> View attachment 1302105


Congrats, you'll love it! I have the same model and it is my favorite bike ever ~ and that's saying something after 32 years of mountain biking and more bikes than I can remember! Happy New Year!


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## krel (May 9, 2017)

Will this work with my fuse (2018 comp, stout XC crankset) to go up to a 32T chain gear, or is there a better choice I should go with?

https://www.thebikesmiths.com/products/blackspire-3285


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

krel said:


> Will this work with my fuse (2018 comp, stout XC crankset) to go up to a 32T chain gear, or is there a better choice I should go with?
> 
> https://www.thebikesmiths.com/products/blackspire-3285


I've got exactly the same chainwheel, works fine in my experience.


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## celswick (Mar 5, 2020)

Hello all,

i've been away from the sport for a lot of years and just now got back in to it by buying a used 2019 Fuse Comp 27.5+. I'm still getting used to all the new stuff (bigger tires, better fork, adjustable compression, rebound, etc.; dropper post, one by 11 gearing, and wider bars).

I've taken it out on the singletrack three times so far and I'm starting to get used to it. I'm getting more comfortable with how far you can lean it over and learning to trust the bike and fat tires more.

The only problem is a sound coming from the bottom bracket area. I thought is was the pedals but I swapped them out and the sound was still there. I decided to spray the bike down and clean it in preparation for a trip to the LBS, but after doing that, the sound mostly went away.

I probably still should take it to the LBS to have them check it out anyway since I'm not familiar with the new type of bottom bracket this one has.

Anyway, I'm having a lot of fun and this bike is great. No regrets here.


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## Mtbvkk (Sep 13, 2017)

My 2019 Fuse Fattie Expert is main goto bike in winter and for cross country rest of they year. Still love it after 1+ year of riding. Glad I got it and it will stay in my stable.


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Has anyone tried an angle set to slacken their fuse?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

Bassballer150 said:


> Has anyone tried an angle set to slacken their fuse?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I run a 150mm suntour auron in a 27.5" size (just clears). This slackens me out and give a really nice travel boost.


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## celswick (Mar 5, 2020)

I've been riding my new (to me) 2019 Fuse Comp for the past month and really like it.

I just took it to the LBS and they setup my RockShox Recon for me. I rode it yesterday and it was like riding a completely different bike. The ride is awesome.

Two thumbs up for the LBS for the great setup! They didn't even charge me!










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bassballer150 (Aug 9, 2017)

Fuse6F said:


> I run a 150mm suntour auron in a 27.5" size (just clears). This slackens me out and give a really nice travel boost.


I also have an Auron I'm turning that frame Into a single speed I might just switch the travel to 160 lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

Really looking about selling my Beast of the East II hardtail. I am 5;11" and am looking at building up a 2019 6fattie Comp Carbon if I can find one. I rode the 2016 in medium at rays and loved the way the bike rode. Can anyone give me some feedback on fitment of the 2019?


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

Meeners said:


> Really looking about selling my Beast of the East II hardtail. I am 5;11" and am looking at building up a 2019 6fattie Comp Carbon if I can find one. I rode the 2016 in medium at rays and loved the way the bike rode. Can anyone give me some feedback on fitment of the 2019?


2016 and 2019 (til mid-2019) 6fatties were the same frame/geometries. That time frame is first generation Fuse. I have a frame in Aluminum. Absolutely love it.


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## twomikez (Oct 2, 2016)

Same height here (33” inseam) and I have a size L, luv the bike, only gripe is even with the seat slammed back I would like a little more reach.


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## Kiwi X1 (Mar 6, 2010)

Same inseam as twomikez and also running size L. Have mine set up with Manitou Magnum Pro 29+ fork I had from my Krampus so HA is a little slacker/BB a little higher than standard but it works well. Real nice frame that rides surprisingly well.


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## krel (May 9, 2017)

I have a 2018 fuse comp 6fattie that I've really enjoyed riding, and I'm thinking about getting a full suspension bike (my first) sometime over the next year. If I essentially want the new bike to be a fuse+rear suspension, what should I look at? I will probably get another specialized bike, and I'm assuming I should be looking at the stumpjumper but there's a million different versions of it and it's kind of overwhelming.


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## Kiwi X1 (Mar 6, 2010)

krel that's a hard one. Personally, I would want to keep the Fuse and get a FS as well. I am guilty of having too many bikes but have recently bought a Trek Full Stache 29+ which is a really fun bike but don't think it would work for me as my only bike. Can be run with 2.6" tires though which could add some flexibility. 

Also have a couple of Banshees which I love. Two friends also have them. Phantom and Prime can be run 27.5+, even the outgoing models which can be had at good prices. Old ones don't have bottle cage inside triangle, new ones do.


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## twomikez (Oct 2, 2016)

krel, I was in the exact same situation, luv’d the fuse but wanted a FS for more gravity fun. Problem was I really like the fuse geo so it put me towards trail bike category. I thought I wanted a XC FS but the geo just didn’t feel right. I ended up buying a 2020 SJ EVO. Wow, speed addict now.


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## krel (May 9, 2017)

twomikez said:


> krel, I was in the exact same situation, luv'd the fuse but wanted a FS for more gravity fun. Problem was I really like the fuse geo so it put me towards trail bike category. I thought I wanted a XC FS but the geo just didn't feel right. I ended up buying a 2020 SJ EVO. Wow, speed addict now.


Funny... I spent a few hours last night reading reviews and understanding the differences between the various SJ lines, and that's the same conclusion I reached. It'll be probably the end of the year before I pull the trigger, but I'm leaning towards an EVO as well.

And then I won't follow through on my statement to my wife that I'd be replacing my Fuse... somehow it won't end up sold


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## twomikez (Oct 2, 2016)

Love isn’t divided, it is multiplied.
Let me know how that works on her.

FYI, my wife has own fuse.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

Just put my 27.5 x 3.0 back on my 2018 Fuse this morning and will ride at some point this weekend. I have been running 29 2.3 Fast Tracks and with 1,500 miles on them, they are pretty worn down and need to be replaced soon. 

For those still wondering, and its been mentioned by others here, this bike in 29er mode is fantastic. If you can pick up a set of wheels, its great to have the option of swapping back and forth.


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## Irishdoodle (May 17, 2020)

*New 2020 Fuse Expert Alloy (29 2.8) vs New Fuse 2018 Comp Carbon (27 5 3.0)?*



tjkm said:


> Just put my 27.5 x 3.0 back on my 2018 Fuse this morning and will ride at some point this weekend. I have been running 29 2.3 Fast Tracks and with 1,500 miles on them, they are pretty worn down and need to be replaced soon.
> 
> For those still wondering, and its been mentioned by others here, this bike in 29er mode is fantastic. If you can pick up a set of wheels, its great to have the option of swapping back and forth.


Can get either of these bikes for around 2200. I am a 60 year old road bike cyclist transitioning to some recreational trail riding in local state parks (forested, rolling, some roots and rocks, not much technical stuff). Think I will like the bigger tires in terms of comfort and traction (and the carbon frame, which I have for my road bike), but if Specialized in 2020 is moving towards the 29/2.8 with advanced geo maybe that is the way to go. Would definitely like to test out the 29 vs 27 5 options before buying (which I will probably do), but for now there is obviously a slowdown for such things (and the 2020 expert is also currently out of stock). Anyway, in the meantime I thought I would solicit some advice from experienced riders/fuse owners on this thread-thanks-


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

Rear tire clearance, early Fuse alloy vs. Fuse carbon frames: does the carbon frame have less, more, or about the same rear tire clearance?

I ride '16 Fuse alloy w/29 x 2.6 Bontrager XR2 (like Chupacabra) on carbon rim 36mm wide ID. Rear tire clearance is slightly lacking.

29 x Wide Trail (about 2.4 to 2.8) is my all time favorite tire/wheel size.

Remember circa 2010, all the hoopla searching for frames w/clearance for the widest 650b tires? The contest winner was whomever posted the most clearance for a 650b x 2.4 or 2.5. Members would have traded a small body part (someone else's) for a frame w/clearance for 650b x 2.6. 

Now a complete 27.5 x 3.0 bike is $1500...And 29 x 2.6 is the new thang...


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## muzicman (Aug 28, 2009)

I'm using the same tire on my S-Works carbon Fuse and there is re 2-3mm clearance. Tight!!!!


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

Irishdoodle said:


> Can get either of these bikes for around 2200. I am a 60 year old road bike cyclist transitioning to some recreational trail riding in local state parks (forested, rolling, some roots and rocks, not much technical stuff). Think I will like the bigger tires in terms of comfort and traction (and the carbon frame, which I have for my road bike), but if Specialized in 2020 is moving towards the 29/2.8 with advanced geo maybe that is the way to go. Would definitely like to test out the 29 vs 27 5 options before buying (which I will probably do), but for now there is obviously a slowdown for such things (and the 2020 expert is also currently out of stock). Anyway, in the meantime I thought I would solicit some advice from experienced riders/fuse owners on this thread-thanks-


Yes, definitely test ride 29 and 27.5.

With your roadie background, you might prefer 29 (thinner width).

I have a 2019 Fuse with 29 (2.3) and 27.5 (3.0) wheel sets and tires. I found that with the 29's, I still have all the traction I need, still offers plenty of comfort, steering is a lot sharper, and can feel the terrain better. And course, much easier to get going.

I have missed the crazy traction of my 27.5x3.0 on only the short, super steep sections of my climbs.


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

muzicman said:


> I'm using the same tire on my S-Works carbon Fuse and there is re 2-3mm clearance. Tight!!!!


Your mud photo album is lacking, yes? LOL


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## muzicman (Aug 28, 2009)

I don't take this bike anywhere near mud!!!


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## Irishdoodle (May 17, 2020)

Appreciate the detailed info. Definitely seems that the 29 (2.3) is the best overall choice in your experience, especially for handling. That helps a lot —thanks—


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## celswick (Mar 5, 2020)

I posted here a couple of times already about the Fuse Comp I got in March, but I've been riding almost every day and really love this bike. I've ridden close to 1,200 miles gotten a lot faster and lost almost 20 pounds.

So far I've had to refill the tubeless tires with sealant after the rear tire developed a slow leak (a great way to experiment with tire pressure without even having to get off your bike!), switched back to clipless, got new shoes, and replaced the stock Stout crank and bottom bracket with SRAM SX Eagle Crank with 32 tooth ring and a SRAM DUB Bottom Bracket. On the stock crankset, the non-drive crank arm would come loose from the spindle and make terrible creaking sounds. The only way to fix it was to put lock tite in there to hold it all together (not an ideal solution).


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

celswick said:


> I posted here a couple of times already about the Fuse Comp I got in March, but I've been riding almost every day and really love this bike. I've ridden close to 1,200 miles gotten a lot faster and lost almost 20 pounds.
> 
> So far I've had to refill the tubeless tires with sealant after the rear tire developed a slow leak (a great way to experiment with tire pressure without even having to get off your bike!), switched back to clipless, got new shoes, and replaced the stock Stout crank and bottom bracket with SRAM SX Eagle Crank with 32 tooth ring and a SRAM DUB Bottom Bracket. On the stock crankset, the non-drive crank arm would come loose from the spindle and make terrible creaking sounds. The only way to fix it was to put lock tite in there to hold it all together (not an ideal solution).


Good on ya man! Sounds like you are having a blast.

I'm also considering going back to clipless for a while, mostly for the summer months where I am just pounding out desert XC miles.


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## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

Took my Fuse out for some bikepacking this past weekend.

It was quite wet and foggy on Friday for the ride out. Got the tent set up in the rain. 








Fully loaded with the bags. My backpack (not pictured) had my food and change of clothes. 








The next morning was rewarding with beautiful views.....








Another morning view of my campsite.


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## krel (May 9, 2017)

I'm going to need to replace my tires soon on my fuse. Currently still has the original tires on it - 27.5x3.0. It seems like the current trend is a little skinnier and taller - like 29x2.6 or so. Will that size fit my Fuse? Any particular recommendations?

I suppose I should have clarified, if I was ever going to change out my rims, now would be the time, that's why I was asking


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## BlackTrails (May 28, 2020)

krel said:


> I'm going to need to replace my tires soon on my fuse. Currently still has the original tires on it - 27.5x3.0. It seems like the current trend is a little skinnier and taller - like 29x2.6 or so. Will that size fit my Fuse? Any particular recommendations?
> 
> I suppose I should have clarified, if I was ever going to change out my rims, now would be the time, that's why I was asking


I've gone smaller to 27.5x2.8 tires at one point, didn't enjoy them due to drop in BB but more importantly the loss of that plush feeling, and to some extent traction. I doubt going to 29x2.6 would result in the same ride 27.5x3.0 provides.

I started with purgatory/ground control combo. Tried the Nobby Nic front (hated it). I've settled for now on a rocket ron 3.0 rear and Maxxis high roller II 3.0 front. Carbon wheels really helped lighten the bike, may have lost a little compliance/traction, but improved that feeling of tires rolling over when cornered hard the alu rims had. Hasn't slowed me down any though.

I've definitely read about people going to 29 and liking it, and of the 29ers a 2.6 would be the closest to what you have now. I've also read about guys going 29, then going back to 27.5 because of the stiffer ride and loss of plush.

YMMV


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

krel said:


> I'm going to need to replace my tires soon on my fuse. Currently still has the original tires on it - 27.5x3.0. It seems like the current trend is a little skinnier and taller - like 29x2.6 or so. Will that size fit my Fuse? Any particular recommendations?
> 
> I suppose I should have clarified, if I was ever going to change out my rims, now would be the time, that's why I was asking


Key question is what kind of riding you mainly do or are optimizing for.
I switched from 27.5x3 to 29x2.3 about a year ago, and absolutely love it.
What I love specifically:
* Greater feel for the ground
* Less weight, esp rotating
* Overall, better rolling

Did give up some cushion (though not much, at least for my riding/pressures) and traction (mainly on the steepest of steeps).

In other words, happy with what I gained and surprised that I didn't give up much, given my riding.


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

I went 29er, 2.5 front Minion, 2.6 Rekon rear. More pedal clearance, more traction, rolls a little faster. May ride a little harsher- doesn't bother me. Thinking of trying a little narrower.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

Currently running 29 x 2.4 Ardent front and 29 x 2.2 Ikon rear. This set up rolls slower then my Fast Track 29 x 2.3 front / rear. I will be going back to that after I wear down these tires.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

Also - bike going in to shop this week for new cassette, chain, brake bleed and tune. I considered going to GX Eagle drive train, but decided just to replace the worn out 11 speed bits. 

What have you all done with your drive trains? Mine came stock with GX 11speed and with a 28t on the front. I should bump that to a 30t.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

tjkm said:


> Also - bike going in to shop this week for new cassette, chain, brake bleed and tune. I considered going to GX Eagle drive train, but decided just to replace the worn out 11 speed bits.
> 
> What have you all done with your drive trains? Mine came stock with GX 11speed and with a 28t on the front. I should bump that to a 30t.


I have GX 11 speed on mine too. Very, very happy with it. It's durable, and I don't want the weight of 12 speed cassette.

I like my 28t on front. I like having the low gearing, and don't mind topping out when going 'fast'. Bias towards low gearing is much more valuable to me than high.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

kevin_sbay said:


> I have GX 11 speed on mine too. Very, very happy with it. It's durable, and I don't want the weight of 12 speed cassette.
> 
> I like my 28t on front. I like having the low gearing, and don't mind topping out when going 'fast'. Bias towards low gearing is much more valuable to me than high.


Good points regarding the weight and the gearing. The stuff just works!


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

I'm still running the stock SunRace 10 spd cassette (11-40) with a 32T chainring up front. Somehow this still hurts on steep climbs, yet spins out when going for V-max


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

2016 Fuse Expert, replaced the GX 10 sp drivetrain to 11 sp XT. 30 upfront and 46 low on the Sunrace cassette, loving that extra gear. In general, I think the shifting is better with the XT.


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## celswick (Mar 5, 2020)

Since we’re talking tires, mine came with 3.0 Specialized Purgatory. I have no complaints at all. I really like them. 

I’m sure I’ll wear them out eventually, so the question is—is there something better I should try? Or stick with with what I know works (Purgatory 3.0)? What do you think of Ground Control 3.0?

My daily ride is 23 miles or so. 10 on the pavement to get there and back, and 13 miles sandy singletrack with a few rooty pine forest sections, and several short, steep climbs and descents. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Kiwi X1 (Mar 6, 2010)

It's a shame they discontinued them but the WTB Trail Boss 27.5 x 3.0 Light Fast Rolling is a surprisingly good tire. They are quite heavy but somehow they roll very well while offering great traction on a wide variety of surfaces and are quite durable. I have mine mounted to 35mm internal rims. If you can still find some I would highly recommend them.


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## rallyfan1986 (Jun 24, 2017)

Hi All, on the topic of drive trains, I am looking into changing the cranks at the same time as the bottom bracket (2016 fuse).

The stout xc cranks have quite a large spacer between the bottom bracket and the crank arm (13mm of so on the non drive train side)

When changing the cranks what fills this gap on the spindle of the new cranks? or is it simply that new cranks have a shorter spindle?


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## ken-de (Nov 5, 2017)

celswick said:


> Since we're talking tires, mine came with 3.0 Specialized Purgatory. I have no complaints at all. I really like them.
> 
> I'm sure I'll wear them out eventually, so the question is-is there something better I should try? Or stick with with what I know works (Purgatory 3.0)? What do you think of Ground Control 3.0?


I have Purgatory up front and Ground Control at the back. This works pretty well, more aggressive front and lower rolling resistance rear. The noise on pavement is interesting as the tread distancing is different from pattern to pattern, my boys think my bike is louder than a car when I'm following them


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Almost 3yrs now on the fuse, the only change that was made was to rotor cranks due to my wife’s nx cranks failing, so I swapped the turbines over to her monkey to get a lower Q factor. The 2yo is now 5 of course and is ripping it up on her own.


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

Fuse frame design was way and still is ahead of it's time. After 4 years the chain stays are still shorter than anything that's come since.

A few years prior to Fuse, several threads here rabidly plead for ever wider and lower pressure 650b rims and tires, dumpster diving for old rare frames (with awful geometry) that would accept those tires/wheels, etc. 2.4-2.5 rim/tire width combination was considered the holy grail. 

If you had posted images of a Fuse back then, enthusiasts would barely believe their eyes: 650b x 3.00, 15 PSI, split ultra-short chain stay, modern geometry everywhere, stock dropper post, killer 11 speed, etc. 

Now that Fuse is another mass market commodity, it's as easy as it is wrong to lose track of what a big deal this frame is and was when it splashed on the scene. It's cool when a yuge, mass market company like Specialized knocks it out of the park, as is the case with Fuse. Good on Specialized.


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## Lewal (Sep 23, 2015)

I was hoping to get some recommendations on replacing the crankset on a 2017 Fuse Comp in size Large. I read through this thread, but unfortunately many of the links to products are now a few years old and don't work.

The goal is to upgrade the components and reduce some weight if possible while keeping the same (or similar) gear ratios. I'd like to keep this repair/upgrade between $250-$550 if possible. (I plan on doing the repairs myself.)

Here are the specs from Specialized's website.


REAR DERAILLEURSRAM NX, long cage, 11-speedSHIFT LEVERSSRAM NX, 11-speed, triggerCASSETTESRAM PG-1130, 11-speed, 11-42tCHAINSRAM PC-1130, 11-speed w/PowerLinkCRANKSETSpecialized Stout XC, forged alloy, 30mm Cr-Mo spindle, 76mm BCD spiderCHAINRINGS28TBOTTOM BRACKETBB30, sealed cartridge bearings


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## celswick (Mar 5, 2020)

I got a SRAM SX Eagle crankset (32) to replace the crappy Stout cranks that came with it. The stock crank had an issue where the left crank arm would come loose from the spindle.

I know SX isn't high end but I wanted to keep the cost below $100 and it's got to be better than what I had.

I also replaced the stock BB with a SRAM PF 30 DUB unit. The reason I replaced the BB is because I didn't realize the crankset I bought wasn't compatible with the stock BB. I did the work myself and I'm no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. It's been almost a year and over 3,500 miles and everything is still spinning smoothly and quietly.


















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Lewal (Sep 23, 2015)

celswick said:


> I got a SRAM SX Eagle crankset (32) to replace the crappy Stout cranks that came with it. The stock crank had an issue where the left crank arm would come loose from the spindle.
> 
> I know SX isn't high end but I wanted to keep the cost below $100 and it's got to be better than what I had.
> 
> ...


That's great info. Thanks. Is there a specific reason you went with the "DUB" version?


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## celswick (Mar 5, 2020)

Lewal said:


> That's great info. Thanks. Is there a specific reason you went with the "DUB" version?


I bought the DUB crank on sale, not knowing it wasn't compatible with the stock BB. Then I bought the DUB BB so it would work with my new crankset.

No other reason. I don't really know the benefits but it's worked great so far. No issues or noises or clicking in the 1,000 miles I've ridden on the new setup.

I think the whole setup was about $125. I could have gone NX crank for a little bit more but wife is not keen on MTB expenditures. This upgrade was pretty cheap, but I'm still paying for it if you know what I mean.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jasonags03 (Aug 14, 2020)

*Need new rear wheel/hub*

I have a 2016 Fuse and need to replace the rear WTB scraper rim and stout hub. Currently running 27.5+ x 2.8 fast traks. Any recommendation for rear wheel/hub? Dont need carbon. Im in Texas. Suggestions/links to purchase greatly appreciated.


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## frecher (May 6, 2018)

jasonags03 said:


> I have a 2016 Fuse and need to replace the rear WTB scraper rim and stout hub. Currently running 27.5+ x 2.8 fast traks. Any recommendation for rear wheel/hub? Dont need carbon. Im in Texas. Suggestions/links to purchase greatly appreciated.


Why do you need to replace it? I'm just curious because I had to replace mine last year (also a 2016) because the rim was cracked around some spokes. Ended up finding a set of take-offs but had to buy both rims so I guess I have a spare now.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## jasonags03 (Aug 14, 2020)

The hub is messed up. Bike guy told me it would be cheaper to buy a new wheel than try to fix/replace hub in existing.


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## frecher (May 6, 2018)

jasonags03 said:


> The hub is messed up. Bike guy told me it would be cheaper to buy a new wheel than try to fix/replace hub in existing.


Agreed, especially since the hub is a 28 hole and it seems like the newer stuff typically runs 32. Hopefully others on here can proved some help and please post what you finally do. I'm going to have to upgrade eventually. 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## rallyfan1986 (Jun 24, 2017)

jasonags03 said:


> I have a 2016 Fuse and need to replace the rear WTB scraper rim and stout hub. Currently running 27.5+ x 2.8 fast traks. Any recommendation for rear wheel/hub? Dont need carbon. Im in Texas. Suggestions/links to purchase greatly appreciated.


I replaced my wheelset with the Mavic XA35 wheelset, 35mm internal width and a 2.8 Michelin Wild Enduro fits really well.

They were around £250 in the UK and I would fully recommend them


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## noose (Feb 11, 2004)

jasonags03 said:


> I have a 2016 Fuse and need to replace the rear WTB scraper rim and stout hub. Currently running 27.5+ x 2.8 fast traks. Any recommendation for rear wheel/hub? Dont need carbon. Im in Texas. Suggestions/links to purchase greatly appreciated.


I am in love with Spank Vibracore 350 rims that are low profile high radial compliance on my Switchblade and would use them on my Fuse also. Spank has a new budget high engagement HEX hub that I would pair with them as a wheelset. 
https://thegravitycartel.com/produc...yg5UayxWptA8BZvEFXUvQhmi5z35_BgkaAhZbEALw_wcB


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## Gaspo08 (Aug 22, 2020)

*Chainring Help!*

Hi all, I need some help with identifying my chain ring standard. I have a 2018 fuse comp with specialized stock Stout cranks and 28t DM ring. Cranks were replaced as part of recall. Back of the ring has three bolts and teeth, looks like SRAM standard. I asked specialized and they said Cinch but Cinch has no bolts to my knowledge.

I want to out on a OneUp Oval but the one up SRAM switch the shape of the teeth is not squared off like line or like a SRAM ring. (Absolute Black looks line OneUp). Attached a bad photo of my setup and the different tooth Charles

Please help!


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

Gaspo08 - The interface standard you want is "Direct Mount for SRAM", and 3mm offset if you're Boost, which I think you are.

FYI, I believe the vast majority of "Direct Mount" is for SRAM but I've seen some random cases where chainring is labeled "Direct Mount" but doesn't have the three bolts like SRAM does.

Curious... did you ask a Specialized bike shop or their email customer service?


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## Gaspo08 (Aug 22, 2020)

Thanks, I asked Spesh customer service. Why does the interface look different in the ovals from the eagle ring I wonder


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## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

Lewal said:


> I was hoping to get some recommendations on replacing the crankset on a 2017 Fuse Comp in size Large. I read through this thread, but unfortunately many of the links to products are now a few years old and don't work.
> 
> The goal is to upgrade the components and reduce some weight if possible while keeping the same (or similar) gear ratios. I'd like to keep this repair/upgrade between $250-$550 if possible. (I plan on doing the repairs myself.)
> 
> ...


Aloha Lewal,

Sorry I'm late to the party. I'm just now seeing this. Been busy and haven't logged in a while.

Here's the set up I have on my Fuse. I think it's the same year.

I'm using a Race Face Turbine crankset with the 30 mm Cinch. Stock (none fat, normal MTB spindle length). My one big gripe with the Fuse is the chainstay can't clear the chain for smaller chainrings. 








Here's the spacer set up. None-drive to drive side:
Cane Creek preload adjuster
2.5 mm spacer
12.0 mm spacer

15.25 mm spacer. 








Another view of the spindle with the spacers on it. I hope this helps.


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## Lewal (Sep 23, 2015)

Thanks Gmats.

I love this thread. There's so much information for our fatties.


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## teethandnails (Sep 16, 2013)

Are 9fatties allowed in here?


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

Teethandnails -- Wow! Looks absolutely amazing! Did you have the paint stripped... Is that bare aluminum?


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## teethandnails (Sep 16, 2013)

The frame was red and black (2016 Elite?). I wasn't wild about the color and it had some paint chips and scuffs. It had been hanging up in the garage as a frame only for a few years, and then recently I started collecting parts here and there. I decided to try and strip the paint myself and got some aircraft remover. That stuff is pretty nasty, and I only go about 1/2 the paint off, so then I went and had the frame media blasted. I considered polishing the frame, but ended up having it powder coated. The color is called "super chrome." Compared to polishing it will be a stronger coating for alot longer. I am pretty stoked with the build so far.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

teethandnails said:


> The frame was red and black (2016 Elite?). I wasn't wild about the color and it had some paint chips and scuffs. It had been hanging up in the garage as a frame only for a few years, and then recently I started collecting parts here and there. I decided to try and strip the paint myself and got some aircraft remover. That stuff is pretty nasty, and I only go about 1/2 the paint off, so then I went and had the frame media blasted. I considered polishing the frame, but ended up having it powder coated. The color is called "super chrome." Compared to polishing it will be a stronger coating for alot longer. I am pretty stoked with the build so far.


Are those 29 x 2.6 tires, and on what width rims? Looks absolutely stunning. While my Fuse Carbon is long gone, this gives me an idea of what my Ti hardtail would look like with those skinwalls.....


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## teethandnails (Sep 16, 2013)

They are 29x2.9 on a 30mm internal wheel (2020 e*thirteen LG1 base). The rear tire ribs occactionally on the rear shifter cable near the BB, but... Oh well lol


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## Bikin' Bric (Sep 7, 2003)

Still loving the 2018 Fuse Comp. Finally ditched the less than stellar Manitou fork for something much happier. Marzocchi Z2 in 130mm travel. Very nice!


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## Gaspo08 (Aug 22, 2020)

*Nice!*



Bikin' Bric said:


> Still loving the 2018 Fuse Comp. Finally ditched the less than stellar Manitou fork for something much happier. Marzocchi Z2 in 130mm travel. Very nice!
> 
> View attachment 1374055


I have the same rig and am thinking of putting the same fork also! Seems pretty unbeatable for the price. What size tires are you running?


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## Bikin' Bric (Sep 7, 2003)

Gaspo08 said:


> I have the same rig and am thinking of putting the same fork also! Seems pretty unbeatable for the price. What size tires are you running?


Those are 2.8" Maxxis Minions (dhf and dhr2).


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## Gaspo08 (Aug 22, 2020)

*Offset?*



Bikin' Bric said:


> Those are 2.8" Maxxis Minions (dhf and dhr2).


Thanks, it's the 29er fork? What offset did you go with? I can't find any offset info on the stock Manitou that came in it.


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## stryker251 (Nov 7, 2020)

*Specialized Fuse Comp Carbon 27.5+ Tire Question*

I just picked up at 2019 Specialized Fuse Comp Carbon 27.5+ and it is my first decent mountain bike. I ride mainly flat Florida single track. I noticed that with the big tires it seems like the rolling resistance is much greater. How can I get it to roll better without slowing down so much with the wide tires?

I saw people in the thread going to 29ers, but I really don't want to spend any more money on new rims. Could I go with a thinner tire on the stock rims to get it to roll better? Can you put a normal 27.5X2.3 or 2.6 tire on these 43mm rims?

Thanks for helping out a noob!


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## Gaspo08 (Aug 22, 2020)

stryker251 said:


> I just picked up at 2019 Specialized Fuse Comp Carbon 27.5+ and it is my first decent mountain bike. I ride mainly flat Florida single track. I noticed that with the big tires it seems like the rolling resistance is much greater. How can I get it to roll better without slowing down so much with the wide tires?
> 
> I saw people in the thread going to 29ers, but I really don't want to spend any more money on new rims. Could I go with a thinner tire on the stock rims to get it to roll better? Can you put a normal 27.5X2.3 or 2.6 tire on these 43mm rims?
> 
> Thanks for helping out a noob!


You could go down to 2.5 of 2.6 on the stock rims but it will mean a smaller diameter wheel also which will drop the BB height. I tried 2.6 but I started getting a lot of pedal strikes so i put the stock 3 inches back on. Next set I'd consider going to 2.8.

Likely you just need to get used to the handling and the slacker head angle than you probably had before.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

stryker251 said:


> I just picked up at 2019 Specialized Fuse Comp Carbon 27.5+ and it is my first decent mountain bike. I ride mainly flat Florida single track. I noticed that with the big tires it seems like the rolling resistance is much greater. How can I get it to roll better without slowing down so much with the wide tires?
> 
> I saw people in the thread going to 29ers, but I really don't want to spend any more money on new rims. Could I go with a thinner tire on the stock rims to get it to roll better? Can you put a normal 27.5X2.3 or 2.6 tire on these 43mm rims?
> 
> Thanks for helping out a noob!


Congrats on your new bike!

Your "43mm rims"... that's the external width, right? I *think* your internal width, which is the relevant measurement, is 38mm.

In any case, because you're on flat FL single track, you could maybe benefit from 2.8 tires that have rounder profile and tighter/smaller knobs.


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## stryker251 (Nov 7, 2020)

kevin_sbay said:


> Congrats on your new bike!
> 
> Your "43mm rims"... that's the external width, right? I *think* your internal width, which is the relevant measurement, is 38mm.
> 
> In any case, because you're on flat FL single track, you could maybe benefit from 2.8 tires that have rounder profile and tighter/smaller knobs.


My bad it is 38mm (told you I was a noob lol). If I did go to a thinner tire will any 27.5X2.8 fit or do they have to be the plus?

Also, on the stock tires any recommendations on tire pressure?

Thanks again


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## Gaspo08 (Aug 22, 2020)

stryker251 said:


> My bad it is 38mm (told you I was a noob lol). If I did go to a thinner tire will any 27.5X2.8 fit or do they have to be the plus?
> 
> Also, on the stock tires any recommendations on tire pressure?
> 
> Thanks again


Any should fit just fine. My stock Spesh tires I run 18 psi in the back and 16 in the front. I'm 175 ton180 lbs fully kitted.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

stryker251 said:


> My bad it is 38mm (told you I was a noob lol). If I did go to a thinner tire will any 27.5X2.8 fit or do they have to be the plus?
> 
> Also, on the stock tires any recommendations on tire pressure?
> 
> Thanks again


No prob. Noob stage is fun stage!

You should be fine with any 27.5 x 2.8 even if it doesn't say "Plus". Because "plus" is an unofficial term that basically refers to tires from ~2.6 to 3.0, roughly. In other words, every tire that is 2.8 wide is plus even if it's not marked as plus.


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## BansheeRune (Nov 27, 2011)

kevin_sbay said:


> No prob. Noob stage is fun stage!
> 
> You should be fine with any 27.5 x 2.8 even if it doesn't say "Plus". Because "plus" is an unofficial term that basically refers to tires from ~2.6 to 3.0, roughly. In other words, every tire that is 2.8 wide is plus even if it's not marked as plus.


2.6 marks the end of the minus range... Never capitulate to the industry!


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## Vattern (Dec 10, 2020)

*FUSE Expert 2016 1x12 set up - no chain tire clearance*

Hi,
I am new here, same as my FUSE is new to me.  But super happy about this purchase i did last week.
As I have quite hilly surroundings, the 1x10 with 11-42 cassette seems not to be enough. I tried it. 
I bought new Shimano SLX derailleur and shifter, Sunrace 11-50 cassette, as a cheap option. Crankset remains the original. But once installed, I realized, there is not clearance between chain and 3.0 Ground control tire on the 50T.

Please, did someone tried this configuration on the FUSE 2016? Is there anything to do, add SLX wider cranks, some spacers between hub and cassette?

Other option, if all above fails, is to use old SRAM GX 11sp and add 11-46 cassette.

Thanks in advace. Jan


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## TRS333 (Mar 19, 2021)

Hello - Hoping someone here can help me find a specific part that seems to be quite elusive.

I have a 2016 Fuse Comp and am missing the preload fixing bolt for the crank. My local bike shop says the part is discontinued, but I'm hoping to find a replacement without having to replace the entire set (at least not yet). 

Any input on a suitable replacement fixing bolt that fits would be greatly appreciated!

Crank Spec: Specialized Stout XC, forged alloy, 148-specific chain line, PF30, Cr-Mo spindle, 30T, 76mm BCD spider


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## Lewal (Sep 23, 2015)

TRS333 said:


> Hello - Hoping someone here can help me find a specific part that seems to be quite elusive.
> 
> I have a 2016 Fuse Comp and am missing the preload fixing bolt for the crank. My local bike shop says the part is discontinued, but I'm hoping to find a replacement without having to replace the entire set (at least not yet).
> 
> ...


Hey TRS333,

If the fixing bolt for the crank on a 2017 Fuse Comp would work, let me know. I still have my old parts after replacing the entire crank assembly and bottom bracket.


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## celswick (Mar 5, 2020)

Lewal said:


> Hey TRS333,
> 
> If the fixing bolt for the crank on a 2017 Fuse Comp would work, let me know. I still have my old parts after replacing the entire crank assembly and bottom bracket.


I didn't think of that. I have a 2019 Fuse Comp and I took off the Stout Crank and still have the parts.


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## TRS333 (Mar 19, 2021)

Lewal said:


> Hey TRS333,
> 
> If the fixing bolt for the crank on a 2017 Fuse Comp would work, let me know. I still have my old parts after replacing the entire crank assembly and bottom bracket.


Thanks for the response! That's a great idea and certainly worth a shot. I'll send you a PM to connect more about it.

The crank specs seem really close, though just a little different, on the 2017 vs. 2016 (see below). But I'm hoping the bolt is at least the same. Thanks again!

2017 crank: Specialized Stout XC, forged alloy, 30mm Cr-Mo spindle, 76mm BCD spider, 28T 
2016 crank: Specialized Stout XC, forged alloy, 148-specific chain line, PF30, Cr-Mo spindle, 30T, 76mm BCD spider


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## Atari84 (Apr 8, 2021)

Hi all,

I have some probably dumb questions, but I can't figure out how to search ONLY this thread to find the answers.

Specialized lists the 2019 fuse comp 27.5+ as having 200/180mm front and 180/160mm rear rotors. Which is it? I am assuming based on size, but mine is a Medium so I can't figure out where the switch over would be. Also what's the biggest rotor someone has successfully fit on their fuse?

Basically the SRAM Level brakes have been terrible for over a year, I have bled them and even bought new semi metallic pads. I am thinking of either getting bigger rotors or just dump some money into a Shimano brake setup as I like the one's on my friends bike.

I did just spend some money to change out the creaking bottom bracket, switched it to threaded and with it an NX crankset and will need new tires soon too, would prefer to just go the cheapest route to better braking.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

Atari84 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have some probably dumb questions, but I can't figure out how to search ONLY this thread to find the answers.
> 
> ...


Medium is 180 front / 160 rear.

Regarding the SRAM Level brakes, my strong recommendation: Dump them and get some Shimano SLX. I did. My SRAM Levels were terrible, including horrendous stopping power. After many attempts at adjusting, got Shimano SLX M7000 (two piston) and have been super happy.


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## Atari84 (Apr 8, 2021)

kevin_sbay said:


> Medium is 180 front / 160 rear.
> 
> Regarding the SRAM Level brakes, my strong recommendation: Dump them and get some Shimano SLX. I did. My SRAM Levels were terrible, including horrendous stopping power. After many attempts at adjusting, got Shimano SLX M7000 (two piston) and have been super happy.


Thanks for the quick reply and yeah I've tried everything with these brakes. They do NOT inspire confidence when going downhill at speed, I'm always wondering if I'll stop in time.

The SLX's aren't that expensive if I can find some in stock haha


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## rockychrysler (Aug 9, 2003)

Finally got around to writing a short review of my 2017 6Fattie Expert over on my blog... Guess I just needed to ride it a bit, for like for 4000 miles or so, before I was able to gather my thoughts together, ya know... Thought some of y'all on this thread in this forum might care to read it.
Just about a bike: Specialized Fuse 6Fattie


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## tork (Mar 19, 2010)

I posted this to another part of the forum, but meant to post here. Hope I didn't break any rules...

Celswick -which crank set did you use to replace your Stout crank set? Are you happy with your choice?

My 2019 Fuse Comp (purchased in Jan. 2020) left side Stout crank developed the dreaded click and it'll need to be replaced. My LBS is contacting Specialized to see if the crank is under warranty. The bike has less than 300 miles on it (I was unable to ride for nine months) and honestly I'm not sure I want to put such an inferior part back on the bike even if it is under warranty!

I'd rather pay to upgrade to something more reliable/stronger/lighter. I'm not a real aggressive rider, and I'm a noob to "new bikes". I upgraded to the Fuse Comp from my old Klein Pulse....

Anyone have any suggestions for swapping out the Stout crankset?

Thanks


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

tork said:


> I posted this to another part of the forum, but meant to post here. Hope I didn't break any rules...
> 
> Celswick -which crank set did you use to replace your Stout crank set? Are you happy with your choice?
> 
> ...


Seems like you/bike shop are sure it's the crank that's clicking? How sure are you/they about that, versus the bottom bracket that's clicking?

Bottom bracket clicking happens prolly 1000x (scientifically measured haha) more often than crank clicking.

I think the cranks on the Fuse Comp are known to be pretty solid. Bottom bracket (since press fit) is another matter.


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## tork (Mar 19, 2010)

I'd have bet on the BB making the noise, but the mechanic took off the left crank and was able to replicate the click by placing the crank and pedal on the floor. Somehow he simulated a pedal stroke by putting pressure on the crank and where the "silver hollow metal" joins the crank, and it clicked each time pressure was applied. Nailed it!


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## celswick (Mar 5, 2020)

tork said:


> I posted this to another part of the forum, but meant to post here. Hope I didn't break any rules...
> 
> Celswick -which crank set did you use to replace your Stout crank set? Are you happy with your choice?
> 
> ...


I got a SRAM SX Eagle crankset (32) to replace the crappy Stout cranks that came with it. The stock crank had an issue where the left crank arm would come loose from the spindle.

I know SX isn't high end but I wanted to keep the cost below $100 and it's got to be better than what I had.

I also replaced the stock BB with a SRAM PF 30 DUB unit. I did the work myself and I'm no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination.

















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## kbecker (Jul 7, 2020)

Hi All,

Anyone with the carbon fuse have any bb/crank issues? I have an 18 carbon model and my bb started developing a click and lateral play. I replaced the bb with a box version thats marketed as an upgrade. This fixed the problem for about two weeks and now I'm having the same issue again on a brand new BB.

I feel the click while pedaling hard coming from my left crank. And the lateral play is only there if you try to rock the cranks side to side with the right crank arm facing forward.


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## Dopaminer_09 (Oct 23, 2009)

My fuse came with the 3" wide tires. I need to replace the 30t chainring. Does anyone know how many mm offset the chainring has?

It's the 2019 Fuse 27.5+ Expert. My LBS says they would need to take off the crank to find out the offset and are booking out 3 weeks. They say it will be easier for me to order the chainring, than for them to. But I need to figure out the right one to order.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

Dopaminer_09 said:


> My fuse came with the 3" wide tires. I need to replace the 30t chainring. Does anyone know how many mm offset the chainring has?
> 
> It's the 2019 Fuse 27.5+ Expert. My LBS says they would need to take off the crank to find out the offset and are booking out 3 weeks. They say it will be easier for me to order the chainring, than for them to. But I need to figure out the right one to order.
> View attachment 1944673


I have that year's Fuse but comp model. Offset on mine is 3mm.


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## celswick (Mar 5, 2020)

I just converted my 6Fattie to 29er. I destroyed the rear 27+ rim when the derailleur blew out and went into the spokes. A friend of mine had and extra set of 29er wheels and a tire, so I bought another tire and a GX derailleur and here ya go.


































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