# Pedal strikes! Wth is going on here!?



## SoWal_MTBer (Jan 4, 2012)

So I'm averaging getting tossed over my bars once a week right now riding my local (pretty tame) trails. I never have this problem when I'm up in the mountains, but on the really rooty local stuff I'm getting hammered.

Currently riding a BlurLT, which doesn't have an abnormally low BB, but is a little lower than the most of the other local riders on larger wheels in my area. I'm also riding on flats, while most are riding on a low-profile pedal like CB Eggbeaters. Is my ever so slightly lower BB and thicker pedals really the problem here? I'm a good, strong rider, but these freak pedal strikes are pretty violent.

As far as our trails here, they are really rooty with many Palmetto roots (massive chunky intricate root systems). It's not the terribly rooty sections where Im striking my pedals either. At first I figured I was already deep in my travel, which was causing the strikes, but it's the lone root out in the middle of nowhere that seems to just catch me every time. 

If I wasn't being launched over my bars weekly when these strikes happen, I probably wouldn't mind so much. Surely, there are others that have experienced this problem before? What were you able to do to help rectify the issue?


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## ghettocop (Jul 26, 2011)

I ride an Orbea Alma with a freakishly low BB. So I feel you. My advice...... Learn to look way up the trail, identify possible pedal strike, and time your pedaling accordingly. You can also use the "ratchet" technique in really bad areas where you don't make full revolutions of the crank. Just pedal it to almost bottom, back-pedal quickly, then pedal forward again. This is helpful in techy areas.


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## Gritter (Dec 21, 2010)

You could try those super thin pedals. Even thinner than the ones you mentioned. Like these:









I wouldn't want to use shorter crank arms, but that would help as well. Fatter tires will raise you up a bit too.

Don't know your suspension situation, but if it were stiffer, that would help. Good luck.


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## c_m_shooter (Mar 8, 2007)

I put 165mm crankarms on my Fargo for that reason. It works for me because they are the same length as my road and track bikes. If you have gears you won't notice the crank length, on a SS it may be a problem.


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## DMKiefer (Jul 31, 2004)

Gritter said:


> You could try those super thin pedals. Even thinner than the ones you mentioned. Like these:
> 
> View attachment 797195
> 
> ...


What kind of pedals are those? How much? Where to buy?


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## BruceBrown (Jan 16, 2004)

Gritter said:


> .....shorter crank arms....Fatter tires will raise you up a bit...


:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Looking up the trail and pedal timing, ratcheting, building speed when entering such places and just coasting over them with pedals level are all free techniques to use. Bigger tyres could help, but not sure how big the TB LT will take and I'm against going for shorter cranks than stock _(175mm is normally stock)_ unless you are actually a shorter rider, <5'8"


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## Gritter (Dec 21, 2010)

DMKiefer said:


> What kind of pedals are those? How much? Where to buy?


Prototype from Specialized?? I don't know, I gleeped the pic from here: Specialized super thin flat pedals !

There are many others doing the super-thin thing though. Azonic Flat Iron:










Fyxation Gates Slim Platform Pedal are only $30, though not quite as thin:










Tioga MT-Zero Axle Pedal System:


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## Dion (Oct 22, 2009)

ghettocop said:


> I ride an Orbea Alma with a freakishly low BB. So I feel you. My advice...... Learn to look way up the trail, identify possible pedal strike, and time your pedaling accordingly. You can also use the "ratchet" technique in really bad areas where you don't make full revolutions of the crank. Just pedal it to almost bottom, back-pedal quickly, then pedal forward again. This is helpful in techy areas.


This. And count me in for "NO" on shorter crank arms.

Handling pedal strikes is a bike handling issue, not a set-up issue.

Sent from CouchPad via Outer Space


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## theMeat (Jan 5, 2010)

Dion said:


> This. And count me in for "NO" on shorter crank arms.
> 
> Handling pedal strikes is a bike handling issue, not a set-up issue.
> 
> Sent from CouchPad via Outer Space


Agreed. learn better timing, bunny hops, and manuals.


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## carverboy (Sep 5, 2009)

Make sure your rear shock is at the proper pressure. A leaky shock can lower the BB and cause unwanted pedal strikes as well.


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## Shibby (Jan 13, 2004)

If you're having very frequent pedal strikes, then changing your pedals to something slightly thinner probably won't make a load of difference. Shorter crankarms would probably make a small difference, but the drawbacks probably aren't worth it.

It does sound like a handling issue - it sounds like your conditions are similar to mine. As others have said, it's about picking lines, timing pedal strokes, etc.


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## derby (Jan 12, 2004)

Even 1/8th inch added pedal clearance can make a big difference in the frequency of pedal strikes. Thinner pedals or shorter cranks might work for you.

In my case I didn't want shorter cranks and loss of power at low speeds, my Time pedals are already relatively good for clearance for clipless. Converting to 650b x 2.3 tires from 26 x tall 2.4 tires added 1/4 inch pedal clearance after sag and cured that frequent pedal strike problem for me on familiar eroded rocky rooty trail, and added traction and rolling ease, with no downside in balance and handling these condtions. Returning to high volume 26 inch tires felt harsh and slow after riding 650b on the same bike. I've read in the 650b/27.5 forum that the Blur LT is convertible to 650b wheels.

As you know and don't need to be reminded, that timing pedaling, in other words hesitating, back-pedaling and coasting for a moment before obstacles, for fear of pedal strikes kills all momentum on already slow very rough tail. That technique is what's required for occasional clearance problems, but saps energy and ruins the flow of rides where frequent strikes occur.


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

I ride some root filled rocky trails from time to time as well. If you are having enough pedal strikes to where you are going over on a regular basis, I would first focus on technique. Go out and practice through the most difficult sections while going slower than normal. Time your pedaling, possibly bunny hop and manuals as well to get better at navigating. Do it enough and it becomes second nature.


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## huffster (Nov 14, 2011)

I have to agree with those who have essentially said "fix your technique". Intentionally riding rock gardens for practice will help. This forces you to have to work on line choice, pedal timing, partial strokes, level pedals, etc. Also, stand up through the bumps. I think this will help as well.


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## Mrwhlr (Sep 16, 2006)

derby said:


> As you know and don't need to be reminded, that timing pedaling, in other words hesitating, back-pedaling and coasting for a moment before obstacles, for fear of pedal strikes kills all momentum on already slow very rough tail.


That's often the difference between cleaning a section and walking it where I live. People w/o sufficiently technical riding will never understand the utility of ground clearance.


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## justin_amador (Dec 2, 2009)

carverboy said:


> Make sure your rear shock is at the proper pressure. A leaky shock can lower the BB and cause unwanted pedal strikes as well.


This. If I'm down a few psi, I definitely strike unexpectedly. OTH, a strike shouldn't take you off the bike. I've had strikes where i lifted the whole rear wheel off the ground and was able to keep going.


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## SoWal_MTBer (Jan 4, 2012)

Thanks for the info everyone. A lot of your responses were geared to technique in rolling through really technical terrain, but many of these pedal strikes happen on very fast sections where that one perfectly placed root seems to catch me. I guess what I take from everything you all are saying is I need to really work on my vision. I do find myself just getting into a grind on my local trails because I ride them so often. Perhaps I'm just getting too complacent. I was looking to blame the equipment. Sometimes it's tough to face the music and tell yourself, you are the problem.

Thanks again for all of the insight. Much appreciated!

Oh and justin_amador, I don't think I could ever stay on my bike when Im going 16-20 mph and having one of pedals come to halt. I'm pretty light at 145lbs. I'm flying at that point.


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

We are not saying its all rider. I don't think shaving 5mm off the crank arms will make a huge difference though. But if you can save a few mm on pedals, few mm on crankarms, and a few mm by reducing suspension sag, you might save yourself a bit.


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

thinner pedals may help but the biggest benefit will be improving your technique/ line choice.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

I was having a lot of pedal strikes on the tougher terrain. Every time I asked someone about it, they told me my technique was poor or that I was an inexperienced rider, or whatever, none of which is true. But I was running 80 mm of travel on my fork, and I wanted more travel anyway. So, I bumped my fork up to 100 mm and haven't had a single pedal strike since. Sometimes, moving just one little thing like a fork, bigger tires, thinner pedals can make a big difference.


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## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

SoWal_MTBer said:


> It's not the terribly rooty sections where Im striking my pedals either. At first I figured I was already deep in my travel, which was causing the strikes, but it's the lone root out in the middle of nowhere that seems to just catch me every time.


I'd say there's a good chance it's just brainfarts and/or not paying attention. Most riders will get all keyed up and pay full attention to the hard parts of the trail, and if their skill level is up to it they'll make it through fine. With the hard part over they relax and start cruising, and sometimes they'll start daydreaming a bit, then all of a sudden they get creamed by some dinky obstacle that they could've easily handled if they were paying attention. It happens to me too, most of my crashes these days happen when I'm not paying attention and start drifting off into la-la land.

What I've found to help is slowing down a bit after I clear a tough section, then taking some deep breaths to relax, refocus, and prepare for the trail ahead.


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## goodmojo (Sep 12, 2011)

if it is just one root just bunny hop it. When I first got my tallboy lt, I was pedal striking constantly. Somewhere along the line my brain got a feel for things and now it only happens if Im forced to pedal through big chunk if i didnt enter with enough momentum.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

SoWal_MTBer said:


> but many of these pedal strikes happen on very fast sections where that one perfectly placed root seems to catch me. I guess what I take from everything you all are saying is I need to really work on my vision. I do find myself just getting into a grind on my local trails because I ride them so often. Perhaps I'm just getting too complacent.


I remember feeling a bit silly when I went over the bar riding uphill. I'd managed to snag a pedal on the ONE root in that section that is tall enough for that.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

You raised your BB almost an inch, YES, you stopped having pedal strikes, NO this does not mean you didn't have crappy technique or were lazy and didn't pick lines and time pedal strokes. Now if you'd said I was riding a bike designed for a 100mm fork, but only had on a 80mm, that would be a different story.



Barheet said:


> I was having a lot of pedal strikes on the tougher terrain. Every time I asked someone about it, they told me my technique was poor or that I was an inexperienced rider, or whatever, none of which is true. But I was running 80 mm of travel on my fork, and I wanted more travel anyway. So, I bumped my fork up to 100 mm and haven't had a single pedal strike since. Sometimes, moving just one little thing like a fork, bigger tires, thinner pedals can make a big difference.


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## masterofnone (Jun 21, 2009)

My satori has a lowish bb, or should I say the bike with the lowest bb I've owned. Timing my pedals in rock gardens and riding down gnarly rocky lines aren't an issue. It's on the steep granny gear climbing to get to the top in conditions like these that I don't have the luxury of timing my pedals, it seems I frequently hit and it throws off my upward momentum. Occasionally a quick getoff to avoid a tumble back down the hill is frequently the case.


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