# 1990 Ritchey P23 rebuild



## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

I have been fortunate enough to be given this Ritchey frame by my best friend after he decided it was time for a clean out 

The frame is a 1990 (I think) P23 which is made from Tange tubing as is the fork.

I have wanted to do a project bike from 1990 as that was the year I had my introduction to mountain biking and my first ride off road 

Recently I picked up a 1992 Cannondale M2000 which essentially has the same kit and parts spec as Ritchey ran on these bikes in the early "90's".

I will post pics and a bit of a write up along the way, but first I need to figure whether to rebuild the bike as is or have it re-sprayed with new decals (If I can get them)

Any thoughts on whether to re-spray or leave original?

Cheers
Shane


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## YakimaDeathYaks (Aug 15, 2012)

Holy crap i wish i had freinds like you


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## unicrown junkie (Nov 12, 2009)

I implore you in the nicest way to put a seatpost in that AWESOME frame and clamp the bike stand to it instead. God, I wish I had it too..

Regarding decals, I remember a thread her about a month or two ago that trying to find good replacement decals isn't easy. In fact, the one company listed did an awful job in my opinion.


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

unicrown junkie said:


> I implore you in the nicest way to put a seatpost in that AWESOME frame and clamp the bike stand to it instead.


+1

Nice bike. I don't get why you want to repaint it?


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## hegstad1 (Sep 16, 2010)

The paint is only original once and that doesn't look too bad. In fact I rather like the patina.


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## classen (Oct 7, 2009)

one more vote for keeping the patina.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Please please please do NOT repaint it. All original decals in place, classic P-23 red. Gotta leave it. Wax and buff it out and it'll look great...plus you won't be afraid to ride it.

Smart play on the M2000 pick up as a parts bike, it'll get you really close on correctness of parts. If the serial number is #170 like it looks, technically your frame will predate Ritchey Logic parts save Prolite handlebars. But if you're not looking to split hairs, your parts bike is perfect for getting the bike back on the trail and looking right.

Very nice of your friend to hook you up. Thats going to be a rad project!

We're all looking forward to the end result I'm sure.


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## Guest (Aug 15, 2012)

One think you can't buy is patina, keep as is.


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

Rumpfy said:


> Please please please do NOT repaint it. All original decals in place, classic P-23 red. Gotta leave it. Wax and buff it out and it'll look great...plus you won't be afraid to ride it.
> 
> Smart play on the M2000 pick up as a parts bike, it'll get you really close on correctness of parts. If the serial number is #170 like it looks, technically your frame will predate Ritchey Logic parts save Prolite handlebars. But if you're not looking to split hairs, your parts bike is perfect for getting the bike back on the trail and looking right.
> 
> ...


Frame number is actually #470 so I presume 1990?
I agree on keeping it original as once molested it would never be original again 
Thanks for the input guys and the build will progress as time permits 

Sure am fortunate to have a mate give me this frame and to "Francois" a HUGE thank you :thumbsup:

We did ride together when this was built as a singlespeed many years ago. He bought the frame and parts whilst touring the USA and when he returned with the Ritchey we were all very jealous.


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## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

I'm ok with you clamping the frame as long as your careful, but shouldn't your headset wrenches be over by the other cone wrenches?


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## jettore (Apr 12, 2011)

Keep the paint. Maybe treat the rust with oxalic acid and frame saver. Then scratch x and car wax. Should come up nice.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

shanesbw said:


> Frame number is actually #470 so I presume 1990?
> I agree on keeping it original as once molested it would never be original again
> Thanks for the input guys and the build will progress as time permits


Ah. I had frame #444 for a while and best I can tell its a 1990. Mine was also in similar condition. Once its cleaned up and parts hung...they look great.


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Classic! Patina makes it look classier.


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## Vlad (Feb 7, 2004)

Rumpfy, your bike looks great.


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

trailville said:


> I'm ok with you clamping the frame as long as your careful, but shouldn't your headset wrenches be over by the other cone wrenches?


Haha funny bugger aye  Very rarely use the headset spanners nowadays with most of my bikes being ahead systems, although of course that has now changed with the Ritchey and a Giant Escaper recently added to my collection 

I recently re-set my tool board after purchasing a few more things. Surprising how many tools you collect after 20yrs working on bikes :thumbsup:


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

Rumpfy said:


> Ah. I had frame #444 for a while and best I can tell its a 1990. Mine was also in similar condition. Once its cleaned up and parts hung...they look great.


That is a sweet looking bike Rumpfy and from looking at the site previously, it seems you are someone who knows a heck of a lot about the Ritcheys!!!! :thumbsup:

Should I assume it is a 1990 frame going by the serial number?

Cheers
Shane


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

jettore said:


> Keep the paint. Maybe treat the rust with oxalic acid and frame saver. Then scratch x and car wax. Should come up nice.


Just to clarify what you guys are saying regarding cleaning and detailing the frame, what step first to clean and bring up the old paint?
I have a cutting compound but figured that would be too harsh.
I do have a liquid polish that cleans bikes pretty well, never tried on something of this era though.

Should I be using a vehicle product like Meguiars or similar?
A lot of the products you mention from overseas aren't readily available here in Australia.

Thanks for you input
Shane


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## wxflyer (Apr 30, 2006)

DId those frames have clear coat, or single-stage paint? For single stage, you might want to try something like Meguiars No. 7, followed by the wax of your choice. The No. 7 will revitalize the single stage (non-clearcoat) paint, and the wax will protect. It's only original once, and that paint looks pretty good. I think you'll like the result once its cleaned up.

Edit: Ritchey used Imron paint, right? Now that may require a different technique. Imron is very hard/durable. Try a small area first and see how it turns out.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Vlad said:


> Rumpfy, your bike looks great.


Thanks man, but I'm afraid another forum member owns it now!



shanesbw said:


> That is a sweet looking bike Rumpfy and from looking at the site previously, it seems you are someone who knows a heck of a lot about the Ritcheys!!!! :thumbsup:
> 
> Should I assume it is a 1990 frame going by the serial number?


I know enough to be somewhat helpful, but there are lots of other forum members here who know a lot more than I do!

I do think that 1990 is a pretty safe bet base on serial number/color/decals.



shanesbw said:


> Just to clarify what you guys are saying regarding cleaning and detailing the frame, what step first to clean and bring up the old paint?
> I have a cutting compound but figured that would be too harsh.
> I do have a liquid polish that cleans bikes pretty well, never tried on something of this era though.
> 
> ...


Those older Ritchey bikes should be imron from D+D West. I think WXF's advice is good. At the end of the day...its a mountain bike. Its going to get dirty and more scratched, so don't stress too hard.


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

Another thing I am trying to find for the build is a seat and a quill stem from the period.
Anyone here have something hiding in the shed they would be willing to sell?

I have seen a ritchey logic seat on US ebay but seller wouldn't ship OS 
Stem length would be 110-120mm maximum


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## Guest (Aug 16, 2012)

A want ad in the classifieds will keep you out of trouble


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

Wash n wax......


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Ritchey Logic saddles command high prices but imho, you could place a Turbo there and it would be cool enough.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

colker1 said:


> Ritchey Logic saddles command high prices but imho, you could place a Turbo there and it would be cool enough.


Or an Avocet Racing.


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

That seat lug is sick..


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## alexk (Sep 30, 2005)

colker1 said:


> Ritchey Logic saddles command high prices but imho, you could place a Turbo there and it would be cool enough.


Perforated leather Turbo preferably, just to really annoy the fixie poseurs out there.


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

colker1 said:


> Ritchey Logic saddles command high prices but imho, you could place a Turbo there and it would be cool enough.


Agree totally and have started looking at Turbo saddles on line.

Thanks :thumbsup:


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

Forgot about the Avocet saddles and will keep the eyes peeled for them as well as Turbo's


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

So I have been making some progress with the frame cleaned up and some what shinier now :thumbsup:  thanks for the suggestions with that. I ended up using a light cutting compound followed by a liquid polish and then some Meguiars Ultimate spray wax 

Got the wheels all cleaned up, fitted new spoke nipples, tensioned and trued both and regreased both hubs, couldn't believe how perfect the bearings, cones and hubs were for a 20 year old bike :thumbsup: 

Sorry to the purists for my choice of tyres, had the Geax Sedona 2.25's lying around so put them on for a bit of "suspension" for now. I am going to see if I can find some old tyres from the period of the bike.

Cleaned up the shift lever's, derailleur's, brake lever's and have started touching up the chunks of paint missing on the frame.

















































































Will post more as progress continues


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Looking good!*

Glad to see this project coming together. Yes, those green tires are horrid, , but there are options.

First Flight has some period correct reproduction tires from the original molds:

MOMBAT: Tires For Sale

keep the pics coming, I like it!

frog


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## Guest (Aug 20, 2012)

I agree with Frog concerning the tires, also don't go overboard with the touch up paint, sometimes it looks worse than the actual chip. With that said, I dig the bike ! Classic P23 in Red :thumbsup:


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Off to a good start!


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## wxflyer (Apr 30, 2006)

You've really brought the red back to life. The patina looks great, glad you didn't repaint. Nice mix of parts as well, but I can't say I dig the tires.


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

wxflyer said:


> You've really brought the red back to life. The patina looks great, glad you didn't repaint. Nice mix of parts as well, but I can't say I dig the tires.


Thanks for the kind words.
The next update will show different tyres and more progress.
The patina makes me think I shall nickname the Ritchey "Giraffe" once she is ready to roll


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

Today was another day of progress, with cranks, rear derailleur and "BLACK TYRES" fitted

I also managed to pick up an XT front derailleur in the correct clamp size from ebay locally eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d

Stole it I did :thumbsup:

Pulled the headset apart and will use it until I can get a period correct item fitted. Looking at a nos XT unit at the moment.
I did find the left shifter mounting bolt is stripped where the unit mounts to the bars :eekster: so I may need to locate one of those as well.

Have some PD-M737 pedals coming from the USA and just need to locate a stem now and I will have the bike ready to roll 
I have some nicer XT canti's coming from the USA also 

Unsure whether to use white or black outer casings for the cables. Will probably go white if I pick up a white seat and black if I get a black seat.

Anyone know where there are some old school Ritchey grips sitting unused?


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

shanesbw said:


> Anyone know where there are some old school Ritchey grips sitting unused?


Oh good. Those tires were.....hideous.  Ritchey still makes True Grips. Check your local shops or pick them up on that crazy internet place.


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

12-28 cassette and a short cage rear derr. Never saw any P bike w/ long cage.. BLACK cables always imho and Ritchey tires.


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## wxflyer (Apr 30, 2006)

Tires look great. I like the saddle too, even though the VRC purist may think it too "new"; somehow it looks good on this bike. White cable housings would look too much like an 80s Schwinn Sierra...go w/the black


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

Get balck w/tan wall ritcheys. It will look killer. 
I am the least concerned w/ color coordinated bikes but a red P23 is imho the most beautifull mtn bike ever. There is something about a double diamond w/ a level top tube and unicrown fork.
Make it perfect. :thumbsup:


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## albin0rhin0 (Aug 28, 2012)

I'd leave it along. Sweet frame.


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

Okay, so I have the bike rideable and close to where I want it to be.

Not quite as specced but getting close 

Got some original cables to go on and a 600 headset when it arrives.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Nice! Lookin' like a classic Ritchey. The harder you ride it, the better it'll perform.


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

Here are some close up and better pics taken with my DSLR this morning.


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

More of the same


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## hegstad1 (Sep 16, 2010)

Really like this bike!


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Lovely!

Now go get it dirty!!!


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

Well, that turned out nice. Truthfully, I was cringing at your earlier tires (the green geox).  Great job.


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

girlonbike said:


> Well, that turned out nice. Truthfully, I was cringing at your earlier tires (the green geox).  Great job.


Hahahaha the Green Geax Sedonas did cause quite a stir 

I am happy with where it is for now and will add bits as I can aquire them 

Thanks :thumbsup:


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## 805MTB (Jul 4, 2010)

looks superb boss. something to consider: Ritchey Force stem in silver or go with black bar to match the black stem. Really really nice though!

P.S. Logic saddles can be had in the $20-40 range


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

klasse said:


> looks superb boss. something to consider: Ritchey Force stem in silver or go with black bar to match the black stem. Really really nice though!
> 
> P.S. Logic saddles can be had in the $20-40 range


Yes the bar or stem will likely get changed in time so they match 

I wanted to get a Logic seat but freight from anyone selling them was ridiculous so I left it be.

Thanks for the kind words :thumbsup:


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