# FS Eyelet Adapters for Fenders Stays?



## lmike6453 (Sep 14, 2017)

I have SKS Mudrockers but they aren't enough coverage and looking at full fender options that have stays to screw them onto an eyelet commonly found on rigid frame/fork bikes.
My front fender is currently 490mm and rear is 840mm. Rear seems to work well enough.

Is there a specific adapter that's good or anything lightweight off the shelf that provides a fender mount point on front fork (Fox 36) and rear?

Also is a front full fender a bad idea for hitting rocks/roots/uneven terrain after passing over it?
I do trail riding only.


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## sgltrak (Feb 19, 2005)

Over the years I have destroyed a few front fenders rolling big rocks, roots, or logs because the back of the fender came way down and caught on the obstacle.


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## lmike6453 (Sep 14, 2017)

sgltrak said:


> Over the years I have destroyed a few front fenders rolling big rocks, roots, or logs because the back of the fender came way down and caught on the obstacle.


Thanks. My main goal is to lower the amount of mud I'm flinging onto bearings and drivetrain from the front tire. 
I'm clean enough with what I've got but noticed how dirty the bike got after a ride and trying to pause, clean, and remedy before riding again.

Am I over thinking?
I don't clean my bike after every dirty ride but I wipe off chain and re-lube as necessary.


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## SteveF (Mar 5, 2004)

Maybe a downtube mount fender could be installed low enough (near your bottom bracket) to protect that area? I'd be really hesitant to put a full fender on a mountain bike if you're riding it on trails. Too much stuff can get caught in it and destroy it or lock your wheel up and send you over the bars.


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## spoonrobot (Dec 18, 2013)

The SKS Veloflexx 65 mounts with velcro straps and works well on a suspension fork. It's a little too wobbly on a rigid fork though.









VeloFlexx 65 Fender Set for 29er x 2.35


The VeloFlexx 65 Fender Set for 29er x 2.35" max Width - Fits 650b combines the stability of a bolt-on fender with the flexibility of a clip-on. The bridge allows the rear fender to be mounted to the top of the seat stay without tools, using rubber straps. Quickrelease mounts with rubber tension...




sks-us.com





Stay mount front fenders aren't necessarily a bad idea, IMO you just can't ride as carefree and rip around quite as fast with them. I ride with front fenders using stays at the eyelet/strapped on the fork legs but have had two occasions where sticks were caught in the spokes, rotated into the stay and then bent the stay into the tire stopping me quickly (not quite OTB) - even with quick-release safety tabs. I ride a fair bit more cautiously now on my fendered bikes, especially after weather were they may be more unfamiliar trail debris and invisible sticks.

Haven't had any clearance issues with bottom of the fender hitting rocks or stuff.


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## lmike6453 (Sep 14, 2017)

SteveF said:


> Maybe a downtube mount fender could be installed low enough (near your bottom bracket) to protect that area? I'd be really hesitant to put a full fender on a mountain bike if you're riding it on trails. Too much stuff can get caught in it and destroy it or lock your wheel up and send you over the bars.





spoonrobot said:


> The SKS Veloflexx 65 mounts with velcro straps and works well on a suspension fork. It's a little too wobbly on a rigid fork though.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good points about debris getting either inside the fender or a stick locking up the wheel/stay area outside the fender.

I was just staring at my dirty bike for awhile wondering....is the BB area, rear suspension pivot points, and drivetrain dirty from splash when going through puddle and wetter mud areas?
Do fenders simply not protect these areas if there's splashing occurring like in this video with mudguards attached (skip to 2:54 mark in video)?


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## lmike6453 (Sep 14, 2017)

I'm also trying to figure out where splashing occurs from watching this quick 0:19 video where they have the PDW Mud Shovel downtube fender on:


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

I've had thick clumps of grass lock up the front wheel/pop the fender rolling through a mowed field on my touring bike. It's irritating at 4 mph, would be _bad_ at 12. Hard pass for a bike meant to ride on trails with sticks/branches/loose rock. I've had my tires/spokes grab some large stuff and throw it up into the fork/seatstays.

You are way overthinking this. A fender's #1 priority on a mountain bike is to protect the most vulnerable areas (fork seals, headset, rear shock) from being directly dumped on. #2 is ancillary protection for you.

Full coverage fenders are not for riding on typical MTB terrain, and if you are going to use them, you typically need 10-15mm of clearance all around to reduce the chance of wheel stoppages. You would also not use knobby tires with them, unless you are a masochist.

Where do you live? What do other riders in your area do? Even full-coverage fenders are not going to keep muck off your bike like the video you posted above. For that matter: the PDW video shows fenders that are meant to keep the rider cleaner, not the bike--I wouldn't choose those unless I was expecting to ride in conditions that warranted them (and I would personally be thinking really hard about even doing that--our terrain does not tolerate it, and it's just plain not fun, to me). There are better (longer coverage) fenders meant for mounting on suspension forks/frames made by MuckyNutz--but there is still danger of stuff getting lodged in them that you need to remove, just less critical than a fender that crumples up into your tire/ejects you from your bike.


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## lmike6453 (Sep 14, 2017)

wschruba said:


> I've had thick clumps of grass lock up the front wheel/pop the fender rolling through a mowed field on my touring bike. It's irritating at 4 mph, would be _bad_ at 12. Hard pass for a bike meant to ride on trails with sticks/branches/loose rock. I've had my tires/spokes grab some large stuff and throw it up into the fork/seatstays.
> 
> You are way overthinking this. A fender's #1 priority on a mountain bike is to protect the most vulnerable areas (fork seals, headset, rear shock) from being directly dumped on. #2 is ancillary protection for you.
> 
> ...


I live in Asheville, NC and it's often wet and current season leaves small stream crossings and mud on almost every ride. I'm not quite sure what other riders do in the area.

It's relieving to hear that I shouldn't worry about splashing mud/water on my BB, drivetrain, and rear sus bearings/bushings/pivots.
But I couldn't help but think of replacing them being a PITA if I am wearing them out quickly from rough riding conditions.


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## Kelly Parker (Mar 15, 2017)

I made a diy front fender with the bottom 4 inches rubber so it is very flexible. 3/4 inch electrical clamps with rubber in between brackets and fork. Using Metal rods from original fender. Had to add tape on the sides for covering 2.8 front tire. Rear fender is a mudhugger with tape down to chain stays. Doses a fantastic job protecting bearings. All I can say is no wet feet and no wet ass. It’s handled 3ft jumps no problem not sure about huge park jumps. Running this setup for about 2 years 2800 miles.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

lmike6453 said:


> I live in Asheville, NC and it's often wet and current season leaves small stream crossings and mud on almost every ride. I'm not quite sure what other riders do in the area.
> 
> It's relieving to hear that I shouldn't worry about splashing mud/water on my BB, drivetrain, and rear sus bearings/bushings/pivots.
> But I couldn't help but think of replacing them being a PITA if I am wearing them out quickly from rough riding conditions.


It's less, "not worry about the drivetrain" and more, "need to do more maintenance in those conditions". Fenders of any stripe aren't going to remove the need to dry stuff off/lubricate when you're riding through a mud pit. Accelerated wear in those conditions is a real thing, so maintenance needs to step up.

Even commuting full time through rain on a fully-fendered bike, didn't mean I was absolved from cleaning the rims (brakes), drying the chain/re-lubricating it, and caring for the bearing assemblies on the bike.

I would really consider hooking up with some local MTB clubs and talking to people who are actually in your area. You might be surprised by the answers you get.


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## annoying crack (Jan 15, 2010)

Full lenght fenders and knobby tires are a potentially dangerous combination.
The tires will pick up little rocks between the knobs. The tire will rotate and said little rocks will jam up between tire and the inside off the fender, causing the wheel to come to a sudden stop. Rear wheel: annoying. Front wheel: disaster.
Don't ask how I came up with this knowledge... 
All I know is that I'm never doing THAT again.


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## Timothy G. Parrish (Apr 13, 2014)

lmike6453 said:


> I live in Asheville, NC and it's often wet and current season leaves small stream crossings and mud on almost every ride. I'm not quite sure what other riders do in the area.
> 
> It's relieving to hear that I shouldn't worry about splashing mud/water on my BB, drivetrain, and rear sus bearings/bushings/pivots.
> But I couldn't help but think of replacing them being a PITA if I am wearing them out quickly from rough riding conditions.


I'm from the same area. If you're getting a ton of mud on you/bike, you shouldn't be riding in those conditions. Otherwise, I've never had an issue with the BB, etc., getting damaged from light mud. DuPont is probably the worst case, given the amount of sand in the soil. Still, I've been covered in sand, but still no issue. All I run is a Mucky Nutz fork fender. Wash my bike off when I get home. I think you're over thinking it.


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## schnee (Oct 15, 2005)

Timothy G. Parrish said:


> I'm from the same area. If you're getting a ton of mud on you/bike, you shouldn't be riding in those conditions.


This part should be said a lot louder, and more often. That GMBN video was informative and funny, but I couldn't help but notice he was getting the biggest splashes in deep ruts that were collecting all the water, and by riding in them he was making them deeper and worse. It's a great way to ruin a trail.

That said, you can get away with riding in wetter conditions in some areas more than others.

Southern Cali is just lousy with clay, so riding in that and you'll be ripping out ruts in no time flat, along with getting so much mud caked on your tires you can literally destroy your bike. (It almost happened one to me one time.) 

In contrast, Stockholm has no clay, and anywhere you ride usually has forest cover, abundant root systems, some fall leaf cover, and the drainage is mostly excellent. It's rare to find a spot that's low enough to create a mud pool, and even then, they're easy enough to go around. So, you can usually ride here when it's still pretty damp outside, and as long as you're not trying to get too rad, you won't damage the trail. 

In those conditions though, the most you need is an Ass Saver to prevent a skunk stripe, and a Mudhugger up front to protect your fork stanchions. So, a full fender setup still is a preference, not a requirement.


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## lmike6453 (Sep 14, 2017)

OP here. I agree and for clarity I am not riding through what they are in the videos tearing the trails up.

When it was really wet recently, I rode a gravel "purple" trail off of Blue Ridge Parkway which had a few muddy sections I ride right through to not tear it up as much. 
That influenced making this thread since it felt like even gravel rides can be muddy enough to fling it all over the bike.

I feel like my rear SKS Mudrocker does a great job but my front SKS Mudrocker can be a bit longer to remedy the mud a bit better to be "good enough".
It's only 490mm and others I've looked up are ~700mm to be ~7 inches longer for more coverage, but not as interfering as full fenders.

@spoonrobot's reply helped me understand that SKS also offers the Velo product lineup and this is where my head is at now if this won't bounce off of the tire without stays (if only I could buy just the front and not a pair):









Velo 65 Mountain 29er Fender Set Fits 29/650b x 2.1-2.35


Velo 65 Mountain 29er Fender Set Fits 29/650b x 2.1-2.35 is an ideal, economic splash guard solution from the Velo Series, which is available for almost any wheel/tire size. This front profile mounts at the brake bolt and rear mounts on the seat tube and seat stay bridge. This system includes a...




sks-us.com


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## Kelly Parker (Mar 15, 2017)

lmike6453 said:


> OP here. I agree and for clarity I am not riding through what they are in the videos tearing the trails up.
> 
> When it was really wet recently, I rode a gravel "purple" trail off of Blue Ridge Parkway which had a few muddy sections I ride right through to not tear it up as much.
> That influenced making this thread since it felt like even gravel rides can be muddy enough to fling it all over the bike.
> ...





lmike6453 said:


> OP here. I agree and for clarity I am not riding through what they are in the videos tearing the trails up.
> 
> When it was really wet recently, I rode a gravel "purple" trail off of Blue Ridge Parkway which had a few muddy sections I ride right through to not tear it up as much.
> That influenced making this thread since it felt like even gravel rides can be muddy enough to fling it all over the bike.
> ...


The main reason I made my own front fender was most everything on market was just not long enough for what I was looking for (dry feet). It was important that the bottom was rubber for impact issues. 7 1/2” from the ground gives me the best coverage. Anything lower, too much contact with the big stepups and gully’s that I ride through. Shorter fenders and my feet get wet (that is the main reason I run a full front fender). Don’t worry with the haters, fenders aren’t for everyone. Most are scared with a full fender you are going to abuse the trail and I am sure some do. I’m lucky, I have a 19 mile single track made from chert and numerous creek crossings, that is fantastic to ride all year round no matter the weather. Just Ride.


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