# Introducing the Carver Gnarvester!



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

What do you get when you cross a Carver 420 Ti and a Surly Krampus? The new Carver Gnarvester! It's basically a 420 with room for Knard 29+ tires. I have not ridden it yet, still building it up, but first ride will be in a couple of days.

My story if you're interested, if not, skip to the pictures. When I heard that Surly was releasing 29x3 tires, I knew I wanted to try them out. I managed to squeeze them into a frame I already had (thread here: http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/ti-carver-knard-=-847427.html). After a couple of rides, I knew I wanted a dedicated frame to run the Knards, but with some geometry tweaks and lighter than a Krampus. So I sent Davis at Carver an email asking about doing a custom 420 Ti with room for Knards. He sent a quick response that read 'like this?' with a couple of pictures of exactly what I requested. Apparently, he had already thought of it and was testing one. After a couple more email about details, turns out he had another frame for sale, in my size no less, which was quickly on it's way to me, along with a new design tapered carbon fork.

First teaser pics below:


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Destiny, nothing else  :thumbsup: Look forward to the reports.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Must resist using all caps and bold to convey my jealousy.


----------



## Jstews (Oct 29, 2011)

Wowza. Looks great, can't wait to see it built up..

I'll bet Davis at Carver will be getting a few more emails.


----------



## hillharman (Sep 8, 2011)

This is incredibly exciting.


----------



## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

Davis Carver Rocks. Seriously - he's a super cool guy.


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Some smart thinking on Carver's part to get on the ball with this. Will be watching to see it complete and hear your thoughts!


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

nitrousjunky said:


> Some smart thinking on Carver's part to get on the ball with this. Will be watching to see it complete and hear your thoughts!


Agreed! I will be updating, so keep an eye out. Couple more pictures:


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Geo charts?


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

BikeNY, are the angles the same as the 420 then? I saw your post and got real tempted, went to their site as a Ti HT is in my future, but was a bit disappointed with the 69* HTA with a 140mm fork, now if it was 69* with a 120mm fork I could do with that. Right now my front runner for my future Ti HT frame is the Titus Fireline EVO, although having room for a Knard is something that could sway me to the Carver, despite the un-believeable price Titus is selling the FL EVO for.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

LyNx said:


> BikeNY, are the angles the same as the 420 then? I saw your post and got real tempted, went to their site as a Ti HT is in my future, but was a bit disappointed with the 69* HTA with a 140mm fork, now if it was 69* with a 120mm fork I could do with that. Right now my front runner for my future Ti HT frame is the Titus Fireline EVO, although having room for a Knard is something that could sway me to the Carver, despite the un-believeable price Titus is selling the FL EVO for.


Yes, geometry is basically the same as the 420 with longer chainstays and room for the Knard. According to the Carver site the HT angle is 68 with a 140 fork, 69 with a 120 fork. The fork I got has an AC of 490mm, so that should put the angle at around 69.5. I hope that helps!


----------



## SlowPokePete (Mar 27, 2006)

Can't wait to see it ... I'm sure it will be sweet.

But I thought when it came to carbon, you had a "just say no" policy ...

SPP


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

SlowPokePete said:


> Can't wait to see it ... I'm sure it will be sweet.
> 
> But I thought when it came to carbon, you had a "just say no" policy ...
> 
> SPP


You got me! Up until now that is absolutely correct. Even my road bike doesn't have any carbon on it! I figure carbon has come far enough that I can give it a try.


----------



## Schmucker (Aug 23, 2007)

I would buy that if it was also belt drive compatible or available as an option. I'm thinking 29+ belt drive Rohloff.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

*First ride report*

So I finally got my first ride in on the Gnarvester, so just a quick report here. I had a few component compatibility issues to sort through which took a bit longer than I wanted, but all good now.

First of all: I know I have a ton of spacers under/over the stem, so don't comment on it! I am still fine tuning the fit and did not want to cut the steerer too short.

The ride was about 1.5 hours with a couple of stops to make adjustments. One word description: FUN! Took a little bit to get used to the different handling compared to the other frame, mostly the slacker headtube angle. The bike felt very solid: The shorter stays give it that playful feel and make it easy to get the front wheel up or bunnyhop. slack HT angle make it plenty stable when the speed picks up, and I had no problem keeping the front end down, even on steep techy climbs. Lastly, I am still amazed at the climbing ability of the Knards! If you have the legs for it, it just rolls right up the steepest rocky, rooty trails without a hiccup. You almost don't have to worry about your line and just pedal!

I have the sliders set all the way forward, which gives a CS length of 17.5", and there was still plenty of tire clearance. This thing is ready if/when Surly comes out with a knobbier 29+ tire. Weight on my crappy scale was about 26.5lbs, about 2 pounds lighter than my other setup. The majority of that savings was thmoving from a steel Niner fork to the Carbon Carver fork.

Questions? ask away!


----------



## rob1035 (Apr 20, 2007)

that's really cool! Now ditch those silly pulleys and cables and really enjoy it!


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

Forgot to include this in the last post, here is the parts list:

Carver Gnarvester frame, 18"
Carver Carbon tapered fork, 490mm A-C, 45mm offset
Cane creek 40 tapered headset
Wheels: Jeff Jones 50mm (actually 48mm) 29er rims, Hope 100mm front & 135mm singlespeed rear hubs, DT Comp butted spokes, 120tpi Knards, built by Mike C. He claims they are *really* Burly!
6 speed custom Ti cassette, 12-33: 5 cogs from an old Boone 2 speed cassette and an offset 33t Ritchey to cog
Truvativ AKA GXP cranks (same as SRAM X9) with 28t Ti HBC spiderless chainring
Shimano XTR M960 rear derailleur
Shimano 8 speed barend shifter mounted on a Paul Thumbies mount
SRAM PC68 chain
Old style Time ATAC Titan pedals (the best pedals ever!)
Old style Moots layback titanium seatpost
WTB Silverado titanium railed saddle
Race Face stem (temporary)
Groovy Luv Handle titanium bar
Old Hope Mono Mini brakes, 180/160
Ergon GS2 grips (soon to be GS1 without barends)
King Cage
Salsa seatpost clamp w/ 27.2 to 31.6 shim

I think that's it.

I also plan to have it setup for easy singlespeed conversion. I will have a second chain that is the proper length, and then set the sliders at the appropriate spot for my gearing. The swap will then require only:

1. Remove chain
2. Unscrew derailleur bolt
3. Unscrew shifter bolt (mount is hinged, so shifter comes off without removing brakes/grips)
4. Remove 3 clips holding shifter cable
5. Swap cassette for SS cog and spacers
6. install second chain


----------



## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

Mighty nice bike sir!


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Nice build, bet that thing is a blast.


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

So, so itching for something like this, can't wait until my Blunt35s arrive and I can give a Knard F/WW LT R a go on them on my Monkey


----------



## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

Looks sublime!
I was ready to put a deposit down on a custom frame to accommodate Fat/29/Knards...now it looks like I may be selling at least one bike in anticipation of an upcoming relocation.
Some day soon tho...


----------



## rob1035 (Apr 20, 2007)

bikeny said:


> Forgot to include this in the last post, here is the parts list:
> 
> I also plan to have it setup for easy singlespeed conversion. I will have a second chain that is the proper length, and then set the sliders at the appropriate spot for my gearing. The swap will then require only:
> 
> ...


Very cool!


----------



## Fleas (Jan 19, 2006)

THAT is something I can get excited about!

Good plan.

-F


----------



## 4nbstd (Apr 12, 2012)

bikeny said:


> I also plan to have it setup for easy singlespeed conversion. I will have a second chain that is the proper length, and then set the sliders at the appropriate spot for my gearing. The swap will then require only:
> 
> 1. Remove chain
> 2. Unscrew derailleur bolt
> ...


----------



## Vincentg (Sep 24, 2008)

You have the coolest bike around! I plan to have something similar soon. So it sounds like the CS length will be within a few mm of the Krampus, tough job fitting all that stuff in a tight spot. What is the BB drop, or BB height? Also how stiff does the rear end feel? The Krampus felt very soft the me in the rear.


----------



## intheways (Apr 19, 2004)

Fuggin' rad bike!


----------



## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

Will this be available to the masses? Or is it custom?


----------



## Widget (Sep 14, 2008)

You beat me to it. I was so tempted to get a 420, but went with a nimble9. 420+knard compatibility would have sealed it!


----------



## Widget (Sep 14, 2008)

OldHouseMan said:


> Will this be available to the masses? Or is it custom?


Davis will make you just about anything you ask for!


----------



## x3speed (Jan 18, 2012)

How much did the frame cost?


----------



## 29ger (Jan 1, 2011)

How long ago did you order & get your HBC chain ring?


----------



## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

I've been thinking of a custom frame right along these same lines. I'm too curious about the BB drop. The only reference point I can find is the Krampus, and curiously, the Krampus has less drop than the Karate Monkey--you'd think for the big tires, they would lower the BB.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

OldHouseMan said:


> Will this be available to the masses? Or is it custom?


Yes, this will be available to the masses. He built a couple as test units, and then will be making more and it will be one of his standard models. I have no idea when that will be, so best to ask him directly.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

x3speed said:


> How much did the frame cost?


Price is the same as the Carver 420.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

29ger said:


> How long ago did you order & get your HBC chain ring?


I have had this ring for like 2 years, from back in the good ole days!


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

seat_boy said:


> I've been thinking of a custom frame right along these same lines. I'm too curious about the BB drop. The only reference point I can find is the Krampus, and curiously, the Krampus has less drop than the Karate Monkey--you'd think for the big tires, they would lower the BB.


I honestly don't know what the BB drop is on this frame. Carver claims the 420 has a BB drop of 52mm. I will ask and see what Davis says. I can say that it did not feel overly high. That said, I don't like my BB too low as it results in too many pedal strikes around here.


----------



## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

Oh my giddy aunt. I was just looking at the 420 for a SS frame. Looks like I need to go take some measurements....


----------



## Vincentg (Sep 24, 2008)

I believe the BB drop is -75mm.

Any chance we can get a picture showing tire clearance from the bottom of the bike? Thanks!!


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

Vincentg said:


> I believe the BB drop is -75mm.
> 
> Any chance we can get a picture showing tire clearance from the bottom of the bike? Thanks!!


No problem, couple pictures below:

Edit: This is with the sliders all the way forward.


----------



## hillharman (Sep 8, 2011)

bikeny said:


> No problem, couple pictures below:
> 
> Edit: This is with the sliders all the way forward.


Nice socks! And nice bike.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

hillharman said:


> Nice socks! And nice bike.


I love my Smartwools!


----------



## Vincentg (Sep 24, 2008)

Thanks very much!

Stiff enough rear end?


----------



## Schmucker (Aug 23, 2007)

Ugh, now I have to start figuring this out and how to get it belt drive and Rohloff compatible.


----------



## satanas (Feb 12, 2005)

Rohloff is easy, just use a disk hub with either a Speedbone or a Rohloff-specific LH dropout (if there is one), and a Rohloff or compatible 4-bolt rotor. Belt drive will require some cutting of the frame, and welding in of the appropriate parts...


----------



## 4nbstd (Apr 12, 2012)

I've been touching myself to your pictures, bikeny. I hope that's ok with you.


----------



## bikershrink (Mar 6, 2013)

I e-mailed Carver yesterday, but haven't heard anything. Hope he still has some of those prototypes left, or else I'll just have to get him to build me one.
What size did you go with, bikeny?
How has yours been doing over the past two months?


----------



## bikershrink (Mar 6, 2013)

Just got an e-mail from Forrest Carver. They are ready to place an order. I'm just barely 5'8" and trying to decide between the small and the medium.


----------



## ia_ss157 (Sep 15, 2005)

Any updates on the Gnarvester at all from anyone with one or on order? I have a small on hold (5'7" for reference. Same ETT as my Pugs) to replace my Pugs and am super excited to try a lightweight 29+ to replace the pig of a Pugs I have. Just want to compare the 29+ to a Pugsley. I really miss my old Dillinger which had fat tires and rims. It was pretty nice, but I am looking forward to trying this beast out.


----------



## bikershrink (Mar 6, 2013)

On 10/3/13 Carver posted a Gnarvester FAQ where they said the frames are expected in the last week of November.


----------



## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Nevermind.


----------



## S.O.B. (Mar 17, 2008)

Bumping this thread. Went from 2.25's, to a 2.35 front to a 2.35 front/rear. Every time I go bigger in the tires, I am happier (and faster). So when the Krampus came out, I knew it was only a matter of time before a lighter frame would show up. Funny, I would have bet Niner would have been all over this (as clearly their name keeps them out of the 650B market...and maybe they eventually will be) but instead it is Carver (and others). Yep, this might be 'The One'. Finally getting close to pulling the trigger. Just curious if there are any more reviews of the Gnarvester now that they have been out a bit longer.


----------



## bikershrink (Mar 6, 2013)

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## bikershrink (Mar 6, 2013)

It's belt drive compatible with a bolt-together rear chainsaw already built in.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## S.O.B. (Mar 17, 2008)

Nice.
I am trying to be patient. I have exchanged some emails with Carver, but thus far, the only items I have purchased for the new build are some DT Swiss 240 hubs and a CC 40 headset. Have not yet committed to rims, though I definitely want to go tubeless. Planing on 120tpi knards on Chinese Carbon 35mm (maybe Derby's), V.Blunts, or maybe waiting for the Stans wider rims...but I am likely too impatient for that. 

bikeny, curious as to why you went with the 490 fork instead of the 470?
Also, any issues with shoes rubbing the lower chain stays?


----------



## Truth! (May 4, 2005)

I lOVE my Gnarvester!!!


----------



## S.O.B. (Mar 17, 2008)

O.k., I was going to wait until next month, but decided to pull the trigger on a 17" frame and fork today. Glad I did as I was told they had recently sold out of the 18" and 19". 
Gonna swap over most of the parts from my One9 and then decide later if I want to run this or my SIR9 as a SS (the other gets an old 1x9 setup).


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

S.O.B. said:


> Nice.
> I am trying to be patient. I have exchanged some emails with Carver, but thus far, the only items I have purchased for the new build are some DT Swiss 240 hubs and a CC 40 headset. Have not yet committed to rims, though I definitely want to go tubeless. Planing on 120tpi knards on Chinese Carbon 35mm (maybe Derby's), V.Blunts, or maybe waiting for the Stans wider rims...but I am likely too impatient for that.
> 
> bikeny, curious as to why you went with the 490 fork instead of the 470?
> Also, any issues with shoes rubbing the lower chain stays?


I went with the 490 fork because that's what Davis Carver suggested. I really like the slack HTA and the way it rides with this fork. I am also waiting patiently for the Stan's rims, should make tubeless much easier and lighten up the ride by quite a bit.


----------



## 1x1clyde (Oct 5, 2005)

S.O.B. said:


> Bumping this thread. Went from 2.25's, to a 2.35 front to a 2.35 front/rear. Every time I go bigger in the tires, I am happier (and faster). So when the Krampus came out, I knew it was only a matter of time before a lighter frame would show up. Funny, I would have bet Niner would have been all over this (as clearly their name keeps them out of the 650B market...and maybe they eventually will be) but instead it is Carver (and others). Yep, this might be 'The One'. Finally getting close to pulling the trigger. Just curious if there are any more reviews of the Gnarvester now that they have been out a bit longer.


Love mine and glad you pulled the trigger, you will not be disappointed!
Only bummer about the bike is I don't ride it enough, I need to trim the stable....

Here was my link:
http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/could-one-889414.html


----------



## S.O.B. (Mar 17, 2008)

bikeny said:


> I went with the 490 fork because that's what Davis Carver suggested. I really like the slack HTA and the way it rides with this fork. I am also waiting patiently for the Stan's rims, should make tubeless much easier and lighten up the ride by quite a bit.


Ah, got it. I am sure I will be happy with the 470 as it will keep the geometry of the bike closer to what I am use to. As for rims, I decided on the 35mm carbon offering from L-B laced to 240's. I have read how people are using Flows with no problem... seems too narrow to me but after doing some fuzzy math I determined it was only fractionally different than using 2.4 (& 2.35) Schwalbes on Crest rims over the past few years. Still, no denying wider is better in this instance.



1x1clyde said:


> Love mine and glad you pulled the trigger, you will not be disappointed!
> Only bummer about the bike is I don't ride it enough, I need to trim the stable....
> 
> Here was my link:
> http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/could-one-889414.html


Oh I've read your thread, and every other thread, blog or posting that is available with a google and bing search of gnarvester, knards, 35mm carbon tubeless and much more. Plus I like looking at the pics and getting ideas of how I want to set mine up. I'm not a 'bling' guy so the fanciest I will get is maybe white spokes and maybe a white saddle. The rest will be silver/ti or black. I decided against using my niner fork as it is 1 1/8...think I'll just leave the existing crownrace on there so I can switch out the fork on the SIR9 if I decide to go that route in the future... or I will sell it.

Thank you both for starting your threads... made my decision a whole lot easier.


----------



## 1x1clyde (Oct 5, 2005)

A little 29er plus love via my Gnravester
local loop before heading into work yesterday morning:thumbsup:
enjoy!


----------



## S.O.B. (Mar 17, 2008)

Nice, but more pics/vid of the whole bike!!! Sad to admit I watched the entire thing hoping to see the entire bike and the closest I got was the the bike's shadow.


----------



## 1x1clyde (Oct 5, 2005)

S.O.B. said:


> Nice, but more pics/vid of the whole bike!!! Sad to admit I watched the entire thing hoping to see the entire bike and the closest I got was the the bike's shadow.


Sorry my man lol!
I thought it was kind of a cool angle, especially with the big ole tire:thumbsup:

Next up I am going to follow a buddy and get the same "angle" but I will be behind him!


----------



## 1x1clyde (Oct 5, 2005)

Some am rides this week on the Gnarvester ala uno gearo 

























so much fun and kinda brutal as a single speed. Running 32x19 here in socal and I think its time to get a 20t on!


----------



## Radioinactive (Aug 2, 2011)

bikeny said:


> I went with the 490 fork because that's what Davis Carver suggested. I really like the slack HTA and the way it rides with this fork. I am also waiting patiently for the Stan's rims, should make tubeless much easier and lighten up the ride by quite a bit.


 dude this is a great bike, help me understand, is this the 490 carver trail fork before they threw the through axle 15mm on it? i ordered one last night and i am really anxious. lol. there is literally nothing on this fork on the internet. i am confident that the fork will hold up to the abuse that i am about to unleash on it, but if u could just tell me about this fork and your experiences with it, ie: biggest crash jump drop or what have you, that would be soo so so appreciated.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

Radioinactive said:


> dude this is a great bike, help me understand, is this the 490 carver trail fork before they threw the through axle 15mm on it? i ordered one last night and i am really anxious. lol. there is literally nothing on this fork on the internet. i am confident that the fork will hold up to the abuse that i am about to unleash on it, but if u could just tell me about this fork and your experiences with it, ie: biggest crash jump drop or what have you, that would be soo so so appreciated.


Here is the fork that I have:

Bikeman Carver Bikes Trail-490 Carbon Rigid Disc 29er Tapered QR15 Thru Axle Mountain Fork

It used to be available in a QR version, which is what I have, but otherwise it's the same fork. I think it's hard to find info/reviews on the Carver forks because they seem to change pretty frequently.

I will start off by giving you 2 pieces of info about me and how I ride. First off, this is the first carbon fork that I have spent any extended time on, so I cannot compare it to any other carbon forks out there. Second, I am not a Hucker! I spend the vast majority of my time with both wheels on the ground. I will catch a little air here or there and have no problem dropping a 1-2 foot log or rock, but that's about it. That said, riding the Gnarvester has me catching more air than any bike I can remember, it's just fun! The fork feels super solid and I don't really notice any flex, even under heavy braking. It certainly flexes less than the steel and Ti forks I've been using. As far as crashing, I've had a couple of minor incidents, but nothing major, and the fork shows nothing for it. It seems to be a pretty tough fork. But, being carbon, I'm sure a hard hit on a rock in the wrong spot could cause it's demise, but I think it would have to be a pretty nasty crash! BTW, I'm 190lbs and ride in the Northeast, meaning lots of rocky, rooty, technical trails.

I think the fork will work great for you, as long as you don't treat it like a downhill bike!

Good luck, and post up some pictures when it's ready!

Mark


----------



## Radioinactive (Aug 2, 2011)

bikeny said:


> Here is the fork that I have:
> 
> Bikeman Carver Bikes Trail-490 Carbon Rigid Disc 29er Tapered QR15 Thru Axle Mountain Fork
> 
> ...


awesome i am very anxious lol keep doing spreadsheeets of potential weight on bike at work - ha ha - it it suposed to be at my door step tomorrow night so i will have time on it this weekend. looking forward to going back to rigid, this will be my first carbon (component!) fork. every part on the steed is currently aluminum - no doubt its a beast but im sure i will not be missing the 140mm manitou i currently have here in orange county california. maybe i will be the outer legs and crown of this fork white to match the bike. im goign to be saving 900 grams over the 140mm. fork. i appreciate the advice i really do. for what its worth i will be putting the fork through its paces this weekend haha


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

Radioinactive said:


> awesome i am very anxious lol keep doing spreadsheeets of potential weight on bike at work - ha ha - it it suposed to be at my door step tomorrow night so i will have time on it this weekend. looking forward to going back to rigid, this will be my first carbon (component!) fork. every part on the steed is currently aluminum - no doubt its a beast but im sure i will not be missing the 140mm manitou i currently have here in orange county california. maybe i will be the outer legs and crown of this fork white to match the bike. im goign to be saving 900 grams over the 140mm. fork. i appreciate the advice i really do. for what its worth i will be putting the fork through its paces this weekend haha


Enjoy the fork and the riding this weekend. Unfortunately, my Gnarvester has been sitting idle for a while, our trails are still buried under snow, ice, mud, etc. We've been having some wacky weather here in NY, it was 60 deg. Tuesday and today it didn't get over 30. I'm definitely itching to ride this beast again!


----------



## Sevenz (Jul 17, 2009)

Just got done with my Gnarvester build...Sick bike!!!


----------



## Radioinactive (Aug 2, 2011)

bikeny said:


> Enjoy the fork and the riding this weekend. Unfortunately, my Gnarvester has been sitting idle for a while, our trails are still buried under snow, ice, mud, etc. We've been having some wacky weather here in NY, it was 60 deg. Tuesday and today it didn't get over 30. I'm definitely itching to ride this beast again!


got the fork :thumbsup:, does your steerer ever feel like it is knocking when you are tapping the brake my headset/fork/stem are compressed and torqued right. I used my old crown race if that has anything to do with it? I do not notice the knocking a whole lot on the trail actualLy. Justwant to be sure I am not gonna snap a carbon steerer cause it isnt in right haha. On the 15 minute loop next to my house, there is a downhill and a decent up hill. This fork really lightend up my bike and it is strong enough to jump I am 155 and I really trust this fork so far. going to be able to put some actual time on it this weekned:thumbsup:
View attachment 878275
View attachment 878276
View attachment 878277
View attachment 878278
View attachment 878279
View attachment 878275
View attachment 878279


----------



## trevorrr (Feb 9, 2011)

Sevenz said:


> Just got done with my Gnarvester build...Sick bike!!!


This looks pretty close to a build I was imagining. Weight? What width/kind of rims, and does the Lefty have wide clamps?


----------



## Sevenz (Jul 17, 2009)

trevorrr said:


> This looks pretty close to a build I was imagining. Weight? What width/kind of rims, and does the Lefty have wide clamps?


25 lbs (20" frame)
Rabbit Hole Rims laced with super comp spokes to hope rear hub lefty front hub.
Lefty has regular project 321 clamps PROJECT 321 | Products: Clamp-On Lefty Adapter Plenty of clearance....Lefty set up with 90mm of travel with a sagged A to C of 480...


----------



## buffalo dave (May 26, 2013)

Can anyone tell me if the Gnarvester frame is made of 3/2.5 Titanium alloy?


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

buffalo dave said:


> Can anyone tell me if the Gnarvester frame is made of 3/2.5 Titanium alloy?


Really??? What else would it be made out of?

Yes


----------



## Coloradoxj13 (Sep 9, 2009)

From Carverbikes.com:

What tubing do you use?

The titanium tubing that we use is imported for us from Taiwan. It is aerospace grade seamless 3A/25V titanium. The tubing quality is excellent and is available in a quite a variety of tubing diameters and wall thicknesses including double butted, ovalized and tapered gauge. Our head tubes and bottom brackets are CNC machined from 3A/2.5V or 6A/4V titanium, depending on the application.


----------



## Truth! (May 4, 2005)

Yes- and the build quality is very good. Lots of bent, hyrdo formed shaped and tapering tubes. Its a sweet deal for a titanium frame. Makes my old Merlins look very very plain 
Loved mine so much I bought the newest Carver O-beast.
Get yours with thru-axle, it is the bomb!


----------



## Ant-Eater (Aug 25, 2011)

I can't get enough of this bike. Posted my review of it today:
Carver Gnarvester Review


----------



## Coloradoxj13 (Sep 9, 2009)

Ant-Eater said:


> I can't get enough of this bike. Posted my review of it today:
> Carver Gnarvester Review
> 
> View attachment 898697


Hey, I'm the person that just commented on your post on the MTBVT post about the Vassago bikes. Did you order the PMW sliders separately from the bike? I think Carver supplies off-brand sliders with the bike right? Any compatibility issues? Can you slide the axle forward more and clear the frame? I know Dickey had an issue with a shimano 12x142 slider hitting the frame mount and preventing moving the axle all the way forward.


----------



## Ant-Eater (Aug 25, 2011)

The sliders are what Carver ships with the frame. I'm not sure if they're genuine Paragon slider or not, but I'll take a look later to find out. So far, it has been trouble-free. I haven't given them another thought since initially setting up the bike. I'm using quick release hubs, so I can't comment on the 142mm compatibility. According to Carver's site you can use just about any axle combination with the rear end of the frame. I could definitely move the dropouts further forward with my current setup but haven't felt the need to mess with it.



Coloradoxj13 said:


> Hey, I'm the person that just commented on your post on the MTBVT post about the Vassago bikes. Did you order the PMW sliders separately from the bike? I think Carver supplies off-brand sliders with the bike right? Any compatibility issues? Can you slide the axle forward more and clear the frame? I know Dickey had an issue with a shimano 12x142 slider hitting the frame mount and preventing moving the axle all the way forward.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

Nice review Ant-Eater. I agree with everything you wrote in there except one thing. There is definitely some flex in the bottom bracket area, mostly because of the plate I think. I notice it when I'm stopped and looking for it, but not at all while riding, so it does not affect the ride at all for me. The best word to describe this bike is: FUN!

Coloradoxj13: I am pretty sure all Carver's use Paragon sliders now, and the Gnarvester has always used them. Years ago they used some other sliders (I have an older 29er frame with those sliders). I'm not sure when they changed though.

Also, Dickey had a Ti 420, not a Gnarvester.

I am also using the QR sliders, so can't comment on the 12x142 ones.


----------



## Ant-Eater (Aug 25, 2011)

There may be some flex, but I haven't noticed it myself. I've ridden ti bikes where I could get the crank arms to rub the chain stays from the flex. The Carver is a pretty big improvement from that perspective.

Agreed, FUN is definitely the word that comes to mind. I had to go back and edit the article to remove my overuse of that word.



bikeny said:


> Nice review Ant-Eater. I agree with everything you wrote in there except one thing. There is definitely some flex in the bottom bracket area, mostly because of the plate I think. I notice it when I'm stopped and looking for it, but not at all while riding, so it does not affect the ride at all for me. The best word to describe this bike is: FUN!
> 
> Coloradoxj13: I am pretty sure all Carver's use Paragon sliders now, and the Gnarvester has always used them. Years ago they used some other sliders (I have an older 29er frame with those sliders). I'm not sure when they changed though.
> 
> ...


----------



## Coloradoxj13 (Sep 9, 2009)

Ant-Eater said:


> There may be some flex, but I haven't noticed it myself. I've ridden ti bikes where I could get the crank arms to rub the chain stays from the flex. The Carver is a pretty big improvement from that perspective.
> 
> Agreed, FUN is definitely the word that comes to mind. I had to go back and edit the article to remove my overuse of that word.


So how would you compare the ride of the Gnarvester to your experience on Vassago's? I'm trying to figure out how to decide between the Gnarvester and the 29+ VerHauen...


----------



## neilyo537 (Aug 12, 2011)

Trevorrr,

Can you tell me more about the crankset and bottom bracket set up on your Gnarvester? 
I am jumping on the bandwagon, just got my Gnarvester. 

Thanks man.


----------



## neilyo537 (Aug 12, 2011)

Need help guys, I just got my Gnarvester and I would like to use SRAM X0, what bottom bracket do I need?


----------



## Ant-Eater (Aug 25, 2011)

neilyo537 said:


> Need help guys, I just got my Gnarvester and I would like to use SRAM X0, what bottom bracket do I need?


It's a regular 73mm bb shell, so most cranks will work, nothing special needed. Mine is setup with a Raceface single-speed crank using a narrow-wide chainring for the 1x10 setup.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

neilyo537 said:


> Need help guys, I just got my Gnarvester and I would like to use SRAM X0, what bottom bracket do I need?


Just get the XO GXP crankset and install according to instructions. The Gnarvester has a normal 73mm threaded BB shell, and if I recall, that means you do not use the BB spacers that come with the setup.

I am running an SRAM X9 crankset with a directmount chainring. I'm not sure if the XO is the same, but my X9 crankset came with the bottom bracket. Just make sure you get the GXP version and not the BB30.


----------



## neilyo537 (Aug 12, 2011)

Thanks Ant-Eater and bikeny. I can't wait to get my Gnarvester goin.

All the best.


----------



## santacruzer (Nov 30, 2004)

The Gnarvester has been my go to bike since I built it up, I can't get enough of it. So far I've done two 100 mile races on it, the Cohutta 100 and the Mohican 100 last weekend, while not quite as fast as my other bike, the Gnarvester gets way more smiles per mile!


----------



## Ant-Eater (Aug 25, 2011)

santacruzer said:


> ... the Gnarvester gets way more smiles per mile!


That's the point, isn't it?

BTW, That fork looks great.



santacruzer said:


> View attachment 899152


----------



## Ant-Eater (Aug 25, 2011)

We need to see some photos when you're done.



neilyo537 said:


> Thanks Ant-Eater and bikeny. I can't wait to get my Gnarvester goin.
> 
> All the best.


----------



## bikecycology (Apr 26, 2010)

Ant-Eater said:


> That's the point, isn't it?
> 
> BTW, That fork looks great.


It is a very nice looking bike. Mark, maybe I can throw my leg over yours when I come up to ride next weekend?


----------



## neilyo537 (Aug 12, 2011)

Of course. Thanks again.


----------



## trevorrr (Feb 9, 2011)

neilyo537 said:


> Trevorrr,
> 
> Can you tell me more about the crankset and bottom bracket set up on your Gnarvester?
> I am jumping on the bandwagon, just got my Gnarvester.
> ...


Sorry - I don't have one of these beasts (yet).


----------



## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

Is anyone experiencing creaking with their Gnarvester?


----------



## Ant-Eater (Aug 25, 2011)

appleSSeed said:


> Is anyone experiencing creaking with their Gnarvester?


The only creaking I've had with this bike was caused by the seatpost. Pulled the Thomson post and put in a generic aluminum and the noise went away. Apparently, Thomson Elite posts can be a problem with noise and slipping. I don't think there's anything inherent in the frame that creates noise.


----------



## S.O.B. (Mar 17, 2008)

If you are having creaking seatpost creaking issues I highly suggest you contact carver and let him know. I had a Thomson Masterpiece seatpost that never creaked in my Niner, but was squeaking like crazy in my Gnarvester...he ended up giving me an *unbelievable* deal on a Ti post that completely solved my creaking issue. Oh, and of course it looks sweet with the Ti frame and bar.


----------



## neilyo537 (Aug 12, 2011)

How can I post photos? I would like to show my Gnar.


----------



## S.O.B. (Mar 17, 2008)

A couple different ways, but how I do it is...
Click on "Go Advanced" under the message box. Scroll your mouse over the links and click on the one that shows "Insert Image". From there you should be able to navigate pulling one off your computer or URL.
Let's see your Gnarvester!


----------



## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

S.O.B. said:


> If you are having creaking seatpost creaking issues I highly suggest you contact carver and let him know. I had a Thomson Masterpiece seatpost that never creaked in my Niner, but was squeaking like crazy in my Gnarvester...he ended up giving me an *unbelievable* deal on a Ti post that completely solved my creaking issue. Oh, and of course it looks sweet with the Ti frame and bar.


+1 on that. davis is a jedi master in the long lost art of customer service.


----------



## Ant-Eater (Aug 25, 2011)

S.O.B. said:


> ...he ended up giving me an *unbelievable* deal on a Ti post that completely solved my creaking issue. Oh, and of course it looks sweet with the Ti frame and bar.


I contacted Carver/Bikeman and got one of those seat posts myself. Quiet bliss...
and yes, the deal was unbelievable.


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

Any news on the alloy version?


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

sandwich said:


> Any news on the alloy version?


They are accepting pre-orders right now, saying fall-end of the year at the latest on delivery.


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

aye, but little in the way of details. would be nice to...you know...see it.


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

*Here's the only pic I've seen so far.*


----------



## Ant-Eater (Aug 25, 2011)

sandwich said:


> Any news on the alloy version?


It's seems to be in the works. I'm hoping to get some time on one fairly soon and post a review on MTBVT.com.


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

nice, please do!

Yes, I've seen that photo, but there's little accompanying data, did they make any changes to the ti version? did they change any bracing for aluminum? I'm just curious. It looks like a rad bike, and the vibration damping properties of the big tires have me questioning the need for steel. Lighter and stiffer where it counts? Sounds like a good idea...


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

An aluminum version of the Gnarvester sounds like a great idea, and at $500 will be a great option for someone wanting a lighter 29+ than the steel frames out there, but doesn't want to spring for a titanium frame. Should be around 4.5 lbs according FB.

And I agree, as the tires get wider, the frame material makes less of a difference in ride quality. The aluminum version 'could' be stiffer in the BB area than the Ti version. That is my only complaint about the current Gnarvester, there is definitely some flexing going on back there.

I'm really surprised Salsa has not announced and aluminum 29+ frame yet, I think that would be right up their alley. Are there any aluminum 29+ frames out yet, or will this be the first?


----------



## Adubb (Jan 9, 2014)

Can anyone that has ridden/owns a Gnarvester comment on the ride and Geo compared to a Krampus?

Rode a Krampus for a while and sold it. Looking at building up a 29+ as a dedicated bikepacking rig.

It's going to be a Gnarvester or an Optimus 29+ with a rohloff and front suspension.


----------



## Ranger Pride (Jan 21, 2005)

Does anyone have experience running this frame with standard 29er wheels/tires? I am looking to get in the game but may need to run it as a normal 29er until I can spring for the 29er+ wheelset and tires.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

Ranger Pride said:


> Does anyone have experience running this frame with standard 29er wheels/tires? I am looking to get in the game but may need to run it as a normal 29er until I can spring for the 29er+ wheelset and tires.


I don't think it will work well. I already get a decent amount of pedal strikes with 3" tires. Running smaller tires will just make that worse. Unless your trails don't have any rocks and roots, than it may work OK.


----------



## Adubb (Jan 9, 2014)

bikeny said:


> I don't think it will work well. I already get a decent amount of pedal strikes with 3" tires. Running smaller tires will just make that worse. Unless your trails don't have any rocks and roots, than it may work OK.


What is the height of your bottom bracket from the ground to the center?


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

What's the BB drop? I know that on my krampus, it's only 60mm, which is the same as a scott scale, which is meant for a 4" fork and 2.1" tires...


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

More info & pics of the AL Prototype - Aluminum 29+ Frame In Testing - Carver Bikes


----------



## Ant-Eater (Aug 25, 2011)

Adubb said:


> Can anyone that has ridden/owns a Gnarvester comment on the ride and Geo compared to a Krampus?


I've only ridden a Surly Krampus a few times so my experience is limited in that direction. In comparison, the Gnarvester felt a little quicker. No doubt some of that was the lighter overall weight. The geometry definitely felt more "playful" than the Krampus, but I can't nail down any specifics as to what the exact difference is.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

Adubb said:


> What is the height of your bottom bracket from the ground to the center?


I honestly have no idea, never measured it. I just know that I hit the cranks more than on my other bikes. Looking at the Carver website, they claim a 290mm BB height with 780mm tire diameter. That's 11.4" BB height with a 30.7" diameter tire.

If I calculated correctly, that results in a 100mm BB drop, a lot more than a Krampus!

Edit: Just found a drawing that Davis sent me a while back, and it shows a 75mm BB drop.

Confused!


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

bikeny said:


> I honestly have no idea, never measured it. I just know that I hit the cranks more than on my other bikes. Looking at the Carver website, they claim a 290mm BB height with 780mm tire diameter. That's 11.4" BB height with a 30.7" diameter tire.
> 
> If I calculated correctly, that results in a 100mm BB drop, a lot more than a Krampus!
> 
> ...


I've wondered about that as well. My Krampus measures about 12.75" to the center of the BB with Knards on Northpaw rims.


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

bikeny said:


> I honestly have no idea, never measured it. I just know that I hit the cranks more than on my other bikes. Looking at the Carver website, they claim a 290mm BB height with 780mm tire diameter. That's 11.4" BB height with a 30.7" diameter tire.
> 
> If I calculated correctly, that results in a 100mm BB drop, a lot more than a Krampus!
> 
> ...


It's gotta be around 75mm. 100 is crazy. My one problem with the krampus geo is they didn't take advantage of BB height. With the 3.0s you're gaining quite a bit of height. I've ridden bikes with 60mm of BB drop one 2.1" tires. Clipped a lot of pedals, but handled like money. Add 15mm of tire...you can get away with 15mm more drop.

Any chance of raking out the head angle on the gnarvester for the alloy version? Not keen on going steeper than the krampus, that's one part I really like.


----------



## jnroyal (Sep 25, 2008)

sandwich said:


> My one problem with the krampus geo is they didn't take advantage of BB height. With the 3.0s you're gaining quite a bit of height.


I guess it depends on what you mean by "take advantage". I'm very thankful for the tall Krampus BB height every time I have to clear a fat log or big rock, especially when pedaling uphill. I'm glad they didn't lower it.


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

better handling. High BBs are great for log clearing, sure, but embrace the low and learn to kick your pedals right for more smiles per hour.


----------



## Ant-Eater (Aug 25, 2011)

sandwich said:


> better handling. High BBs are great for log clearing, sure, but embrace the low and learn to kick your pedals right for more smiles per hour.


The Gnarvester's bottom bracket is noticeably higher than the Vassago Jabberwocky frames that I had as my primary bikes previously. The only increase in pedal strikes I've noticed with the gnarvester is that I can skip my pedals on dirt roads because I can lean the bike over so much further in corners.


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

I'm also very thankful for the higher BB height of the Krampus. Being an SSer it makes timing a little less of an issue on some of the techy & steep climbs. I haven't noticed any ill handling effects of it either.


----------



## santacruzer (Nov 30, 2004)

I rode a Krampus for six months before deciding it was so much fun I wanted a lighter version and have been on the Gnar for 6 months now. The Gnarvester is a couple of pounds lighter, a little faster handling with a high enough BB that I can pedal through corners without worrying about being launched into space. I did a 10.5 mile TT last week on the Carver then the same race this week on my Spearfish since I cut one of the Knards and didn’t have a spare. I had three pedal strikes on the first mile of trail trying to ride the Spearfish like the Carver and felt like I was going to slide out in every corner
So far I’ve done two 100 mile races on it, a few TT’s, cross country races and some SS Cyclocross races, it’s my go to bike unless the trail is so rocky that I’m worried about cutting those stupid tires.


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

nitrousjunky said:


> I'm also very thankful for the higher BB height of the Krampus. Being an SSer it makes timing a little less of an issue on some of the techy & steep climbs. I haven't noticed any ill handling effects of it either.


it's always a matter of compromise. I think the BB could be a tad lower without increasing pedal strikes, or without increasing them to the point of annoyance. Lower BBs are better for high speed handling, which the krampus may not see a ton of, depending on where you ride.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

santacruzer said:


> I rode a Krampus for six months before deciding it was so much fun I wanted a lighter version and have been on the Gnar for 6 months now. The Gnarvester is a couple of pounds lighter, a little faster handling with a high enough BB that I can pedal through corners without worrying about being launched into space. I did a 10.5 mile TT last week on the Carver then the same race this week on my Spearfish since I cut one of the Knards and didn't have a spare. I had three pedal strikes on the first mile of trail trying to ride the Spearfish like the Carver and felt like I was going to slide out in every corner
> So far I've done two 100 mile races on it, a few TT's, cross country races and some SS Cyclocross races, it's my go to bike unless the trail is so rocky that I'm worried about cutting those stupid tires.


Sounds like you should try out the newly released Vee Trax Fatty.

Reports are that the volume is a bit lower than the Knard, but the sidewalls are thicker. And it's available now!


----------



## santacruzer (Nov 30, 2004)

bikeny said:


> Sounds like you should try out the newly released Vee Trax Fatty.
> 
> Reports are that the volume is a bit lower than the Knard, but the sidewalls are thicker. And it's available now!


I'll have a set of Trax Fatty's tomorrow when the mailman comes around!


----------



## flumphboy (Jan 15, 2010)

santacruzer said:


> I rode a Krampus for six months before deciding it was so much fun I wanted a lighter version and have been on the Gnar for 6 months now. The Gnarvester is a couple of pounds lighter, a little faster handling with a high enough BB that I can pedal through corners without worrying about being launched into space. I did a 10.5 mile TT last week on the Carver then the same race this week on my Spearfish since I cut one of the Knards and didn't have a spare. I had three pedal strikes on the first mile of trail trying to ride the Spearfish like the Carver and felt like I was going to slide out in every corner
> So far I've done two 100 mile races on it, a few TT's, cross country races and some SS Cyclocross races, it's my go to bike unless the trail is so rocky that I'm worried about cutting those stupid tires.


Is there anything you miss about the Krampus?


----------



## santacruzer (Nov 30, 2004)

flumphboy said:


> Is there anything you miss about the Krampus?


Not really, The Gnarvester is lighter, quicker steering and looks a lot nicer. I'm ready to try the new Trax Fatty's out at another TT tomorrow!


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

Got my frame today and started the fun!!:thumbsup: Can't wait to get this thing out on the trail. Waiting for a white Fox 32 120 I bought on flea bay, but the seller dropped the ball on shipping it. So I'm robbing some parts from my Les in the mean time.:eekster:


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

FYI- Looks like Carver is updating their website and they now have the Gnarvester listed as having a 12.68" BB height with a 483mm fork. If this is correct it's very close to the same as the Krampus.


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

Finished it up today, but some parts will be swapped when I get the others. Not bad with a Fox 32/120 and 125mm LEV; 26lbs 12oz:thumbsup: My rudimentary measuring with an iPhone app says the HA is 68* with the fork which is 520mm A2C. Looking forward to first trail ride in the morn


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

okay, that thing is awesome. Why did you mix the knard/trax?


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

sandwich said:


> okay, that thing is awesome. Why did you mix the knard/trax?


Thanks, it feels awesome! When I started looking at the 29+ thing, the Knard was the only tire available and I bought one to try out on the front of my Pivot Les. When the Trax Fatty became available, I wanted to try that one for comparison on a true 29+ frame.

Headed out for maiden voyage now!


----------



## clarkrw3 (Feb 21, 2011)

Awesome!! No problem with the Knard in the Fox fork? Will a 29+ also fit in a Pike?


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

the knard will not fit in a pike, the 120tpi knard will fit in a fox 32 with no grindage. I have one! The 27tpi may be a little tighter.


----------



## sennaster (Sep 21, 2006)

nice, looks like a monster truck!


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

clarkrw3 said:


> Awesome!! No problem with the Knard in the Fox fork? Will a 29+ also fit in a Pike?


It does on the one I have, it's the 2014 version. Different years have different shaped cross braces. No, it didn't fit the Pike; Rubs the arch by a couple of mm. It fit in my Fox 34/140, but with less clearance than the 32. I have a used 2012 32/120 coming that I got from flea bay, and will probably drimmel out the arch just to give extra clearance for a 50mm rim. Also, with no air pressure, it does catch the bottom of the steerer, so I'm running a little bit extra PSI, though, I can never get the use of the last 5mm.

Only got in 8 miles this morn, but I can say this thing RIPS and is SO MUCH fun to ride. My Les is officially going to SS now. I broke the 2 of the MTBing golden rules; I didn't double check my equipment and didn't carry the correct tools. 2 of the rear drop out bolts came loose and I didn't have a 6mm allen on my multi tool!!:nono::madman: I was able to snug them up enough to get back. I guess I need to torque them down...

Next week I'll get plenty more time on chunky trails, but in the loose and sandy trails this thing rocks. The Trax Fatty never lost grip in the back and the Knard kept the front hooked up on fast loose turns.:thumbsup: Still playing with air pressures, and will probably run a little higher in the chunky trails. The frame feels nice and stiff, but almost hard to tell any movement with the big squishy tires. The geometry is dead on and out of the saddle sprint and climbing is very comfortable, actually feels quite sporty though it doesn't look it. Thing just rolls and rolls and rolls....


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

So I got the fork I bought for quite cheap on flea bay, and besides taking 2 weeks to ship it, it turns out it's a 34/130mm fork:skep::madman::nono: I just said F it and went ahead and modified it for use on the Gnarvester. It had just a little less clearance than the 32/120, but I was planning on dremaling it out to make more room any way. So dremaled it out, put white touch up on it and installed new "old" stye Fox stickers that the LBS had laying around. Went from 68* HA to just a bit more that 67* and put the bike over 27lbs. I'll give it a go for a while and see how I like it.

I did get 20 miles in on it this morn and all I can say is, "It's the MOST fun bike I've owned." I ordered some silver Canfield Bro Crampon Ultimates for it, just to make it even more fun on the sketchy stuff.:thumbsup:


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

If you decide you hate the 34, please let me know. I have a 32 and don't like the flex. The crown also clicks a bit, so I'm looking to replace it at some point.


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

sandwich said:


> If you decide you hate the 34, please let me know. I have a 32 and don't like the flex. The crown also clicks a bit, so I'm looking to replace it at some point.


I will let you know...


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

Well, sorry Sandwich. I guess I got lucky on someone else's ignorance. I'm digging the 34/130.:thumbsup: I really like the HA and had no problems at all climbing steep, technical terrain today; Didn't feel the front end wanting to come off the ground at all. The fork is much more squishy than either of my 2014 Fox forks. I think the bike looks better with a longer A2C fork.

I finally got it out on some real chunk today, and I'm quite happy with it's performance both climbing and descending chunkier terrain. I really had to play with the air pressure as I felt a few tire to rim channel hits. Ended up with 17psi in the rear with the Trax Fatty from 14.5 on more tame trails. The only thing I need to get used to is the bounce back I get from the front tire when in really slow technical climbing.

This thing is quite a fun descender on the fast, rocky trails. Really easy to manual and pop off of the bigger rocks. Ended on a trail that was quite washed out from storms over the last few days, and got to see how this thing goes through mud and running streams. Impressive; Would have been much harder to get through that stuff with a normal sized tire. I still can't get over how much fun this bike is; Feeling quite bad about ignoring the rest of the fleet.


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

:thumbs: glad you're happy with it. There's enough flex with the big wheels and tires that it makes sense to limit it with a stiff bike and fork!


----------



## Coloradoxj13 (Sep 9, 2009)

nitrousjunky said:


> More info & pics of the AL Prototype - Aluminum 29+ Frame In Testing - Carver Bikes


Was driving past Bath the other day and stopped in to have a wheel trued and test ride the Gnarvester around the parking lot, also got to see the alloy bike. Same one in the pics, it is super light set up SS and rigid, I didn't ride it as it was a huge frame, the matte black looks great in person though, and at $500 or so, the guy at the shop anticipated selling a lot more Al frames than Ti, but they will keep making the Ti frame too. Man, the front end of the Grarvester feels like a truck with the fork of many names but that bike felt like it would be a ton of fun to ride. I am having second thoughts about my decision to wait for the 29+ Ver Hauen to come out.


----------



## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

Coloradoxj13 said:


> wait for the 29+ Ver Hauen to come out.


Any idea of a timeframe for the 29+ Ver Hauen? I emailed Vassago the other day but no reply.

Alloy Gnarvester looks interesting, but I would rather have a steel frame.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

For those looking to lighten up their Gnarvester, Nextie just released their 50mm carbon 29+ rim, the Jungle Fox. 500g and 200kg weight limit. I just ordered a pair, hope to be riding them in a few weeks.

[Jungle Fox] Carbon Fat Bike 29+ Rim 50mm Width Double Wall Hookless Tubeless Compatible


----------



## Coloradoxj13 (Sep 9, 2009)

AOK said:


> Any idea of a timeframe for the 29+ Ver Hauen? I emailed Vassago the other day but no reply.
> 
> Alloy Gnarvester looks interesting, but I would rather have a steel frame.


I was told late fall, but I'd guess early 2015.


----------



## silver2ks4 (Oct 29, 2011)

*Harvesting some Gnar*









here is my Gnarvester harvesting some Gnarly PI :eekster:. Its weighs right at 25lbs with Nextie Jungle Fox's running SS.


----------



## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

MTB Pilot said:


> Got my frame today and started the fun!!:thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

bubba13 said:


> MTB Pilot said:
> 
> 
> > Got my frame today and started the fun!!:thumbsup:
> ...


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

*Upgrades!*

So I finally got time to install my upgrades to the Gnarvester. The biggest upgrade is a new set of wheels. Carbon 50mm Nextie rims laced to DT 240 hubs. I knew my old wheels were heavy, but I never realized just how heavy they were. Rear wheel weighed 1602g and the front 1419g! New wheels are 973g rear and 850g front, for a total savings of 1198g, or 2.64 pounds! I was also able to eliminate 400g worth of tubes, as these are setup tubeless now. So total wheel weight dropped 3.5 pounds, I'm thinking I will notice that!

The other change is I moved to a 1x10 drivetrain with a One Up 40t granny cog to increase my gear range. Also a sweet custom Ti narrow wide direct mount chainring. I did not weigh that stuff, but I'm guessing that change increased the weigh a bit, but it will be worth it on the longer rides.

No ride report yet, as I am working through a front disc issue, but hopefully soon. Couple of crappy pictures below.


----------



## gsteitz (Sep 9, 2011)

MTBPilot, bike looks killer! (& I loved the Les too) Curious what size frame and stem length are you running?

Thanks!


----------



## jujuyak (Feb 16, 2008)

Bikeny

Interested in hearing about the rims when you get a chance to ride them.


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

bubba13 said:


> MTB Pilot said:
> 
> 
> > Got my frame today and started the fun!!:thumbsup:
> ...


----------



## Ant-Eater (Aug 25, 2011)

I rode one of the early prototypes, and the rear end did flex. My stats are similar to yours and I could easily get the crank arms to hit the stays under load. They definitely worked out those bugs as my Gnarvester has none of those issues that the early frame did. The clearance with Dually/Knard combo has been more than enough. I've never had a bike I enjoyed this much. 

BTW, nice looking build.



bikeny said:


> bubba13 said:
> 
> 
> > You are correct, it is different from the first pictures in this thread. That frame was the first sold and kind of a prototype. I had some crank clearance issues with it too. When they got the production versions in, Davis swapped my frame out for a new one. All the production frames have the new style setup you see on MTB Pilot's bike. Yes, it's stiffer than the prototype frame, but has a bit less tire clearance. MTB Pilot may chime in as well, but here is my opinion: I am about 190 and ride lots of techy terrain and do not notice any flex while riding. When I am stopped and push hard on the pedals with the brakes on, I can see some flex, but don not notice it at all while riding.


----------



## chunkylover53 (Apr 5, 2007)

Great looking bikes. I'm riding a Krampus with a 140 fork and love it.

MTB Pilot - wondering about your experience with Derby rims and 29+ tires. I am now on rabbit holes, but am going to relace my hubs to Derby rims (which I run on another bike too and love), basically to lighten things up a bit. Any squirm or flop? It is a pretty big drop in internal width.


----------



## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

MTB Pilot said:


> bubba13 said:
> 
> 
> > The frame is no where near the stiffness of any of my carbon frames, but like Bikeny said, I don't feel it when riding. I'm 195 w/o gear and this frame will handle your abuse, no problem.:thumbsup:
> ...


----------



## santacruzer (Nov 30, 2004)

If you have any unidentified creaking coming from your Gnar, check the chainstay coupling. Mine was creaking and ticking anytime I went hard and it sounded like it was coming from the bottom bracket. A little grease on the conical coupling and its better than new.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

chunkylover53 said:


> Great looking bikes. I'm riding a Krampus with a 140 fork and love it.
> 
> MTB Pilot - wondering about your experience with Derby rims and 29+ tires. I am now on rabbit holes, but am going to relace my hubs to Derby rims (which I run on another bike too and love), basically to lighten things up a bit. Any squirm or flop? It is a pretty big drop in internal width.


Why not go for the Nextie 50mm 29+ rim instead? Cheaper and wider than the Derby.


----------



## chunkylover53 (Apr 5, 2007)

The nextie rim would be my first choice, but I have a pair of Derby rims on hand from another project. I look forward to hearing more reports on the nexties.



bikeny said:


> Why not go for the Nextie 50mm 29+ rim instead? Cheaper and wider than the Derby.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

Reporting back on the performance of the upgrades to my Gnarvester. Cahnges were new Nextie carbon 50mm rims laced to DT Swiss 240 hubs, new 1x10 drivetrain with 40t One Up GC, and I also switched from 175 to 170 cranks. So far, the changes have been a big improvement.

Loosing over 3 pounds of wheel weight is certainly noticeable! But the biggest change is being able to run lower tire pressure without rim strikes. With my old setup, I was running minimum or 14,5 rear and 13 front and would still get a couple of rim strikes per ride. I pumped up the new wheels to the same pressure for the first ride and got no rim strikes. I have not added any air since, and just keep checking the pressure. After my last ride yesterday, the tires were at 13 rear and 11 front, and still no rim strikes. I think I can still go a little lower and will keep experimenting until I find the lower limit, and then go up a bit from there.

The 1x10 drivetrain has also been great. On my last wheelset I was running a singlespeed hub with 6 cogs, 33-13. It worked pretty well, but I could have used some lower gears for the steep stuff. This new setup is just the ticket, and shifting has been perfect.

Anyway, I'm a happy camper!


----------



## santacruzer (Nov 30, 2004)

The "Gnar Bar" from yesterdays 12 hour race, two of us on SS Gnarvesters and a SS Krampus teamed up with the lofty goal of at least on beer per lap, we did that and threw in some bourbon for good measure, we accidentally got 2nd but won the after race party spot :thumbsup:


----------



## nomadpop (Mar 12, 2007)

Narrow wide looks sweet, guessing that is from my brother Joey in Houston? About to build up Derby carbon wheels for my Ti 650bplus project, pretty excited!


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

chunkylover53 said:


> Great looking bikes. I'm riding a Krampus with a 140 fork and love it.
> 
> MTB Pilot - wondering about your experience with Derby rims and 29+ tires. I am now on rabbit holes, but am going to relace my hubs to Derby rims (which I run on another bike too and love), basically to lighten things up a bit. Any squirm or flop? It is a pretty big drop in internal width.


Sorry didn't see this until today! 3 inch tires, Knard and Trax Fatty, though it is only a 2.7, seem to work well with the Derby rims! I think the 50mm Nextie rims I'm going to build will work a little better, but if there were no other options in carbon, I wouldn't switch from Derby's to the current non tubeless aluminum options.

In less rocky terrain I can get down to about 9-9.5 PSI before feeling in squirm, but in most AZ terrain I'll run 11-12f/14-16r PSIs due to rim strikes. I weight 190-197 lbs without gear, for your reference.

Little Gnarvester stoke!!:thumbsup:



















nomadpop said:


> Narrow wide looks sweet, guessing that is from my brother Joey in Houston? About to build up Derby carbon whees for my Ti 650bplus project, pretty excited!


 HUUUUUUNNNNNNHH... Gnarvester; Are you sure you posted in the right thread?


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

nomadpop said:


> Narrow wide looks sweet, guessing that is from my brother Joey in Houston? About to build up Derby carbon wheels for my Ti 650bplus project, pretty excited!


Don't know if he's your brother, but yeah, they were made by a Joe in Texas! Loving it so far! Unfortunately, he said he's not doing any more of them in Ti, just too much work/$.

I'd like to see that Ti 650B+ project, I'm working on something similar, also using Derby 650b 40mm rims.


----------



## silver2ks4 (Oct 29, 2011)

Here I am at the gnar bar during our local 12 hour race this weekend. We raced a 3 man team on ss 29+. 2 gnarvesters and a krampus for a second place finish in the mens open class. Santacruzers gnar on the left mine on the right while the krampus was out for a lap. All I can say is these bikes are a blast.


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

I finally built the Jungle Fox rims that have been sitting in a box for a month. I decided to keep my Gnarvester instead of building a Borealis Echo... until next year anyway.

So new 50mm wheel set and swapped my drive train over to 11spd with XO1 cassette, shifter, RD and Shimano 105 chain.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

MTB Pilot said:


> I finally built the Jungle Fox rims that have been sitting in a box for a month. I decided to keep my Gnarvester instead of building a Borealis Echo... until next year anyway.
> 
> So new 50mm wheel set and swapped my drive train over to 11spd with XO1 cassette, shifter, RD and Shimano 105 chain.


Looking good MTB Pilot! I'm really happy with the Nexties so far. You should see quite a bit of improvement over the narrower rims. Definitely play with the your tire pressure to find how low you can go, makes a huge difference in traction and comfort. I can safely run 12 front and 14 back with no rim strikes, lower if I am a little careful.

One question: Why are you running the sliders so far back? I am running mine just forward of the midpoint without any tire rub. I think it makes the bike more playful on the tight twisty stuff. Maybe you are looking for more stability as the speed picks up?

Anyway, enjoy!


----------



## Coloradoxj13 (Sep 9, 2009)

Can I start a small discussion on height vs. frame size for the Gnarvester? I'm finally getting close to taking the plunge on this bike since I haven't heard anything further from Vassago about the 29+ VerHauen, Iwill try to get it built over the winter. I'm around 5'8", currently riding a medium Ibis Mojo and I've always felt it is too small. I like a more stretched out top tube, used to ride an 18.5" Giant NRS and a 18" Kona from the mid-90's, on a 54cm road bike as well (Spec Roubaix). I think this bike is going to replace my Mojo and my 29er SS, my better half will be happy with one less bike in the apartment


----------



## mnyquist (Sep 18, 2009)

Coloradoxj13 said:


> Can I start a small discussion on height vs. frame size for the Gnarvester? I'm finally getting close to taking the plunge on this bike since I haven't heard anything further from Vassago about the 29+ VerHauen, Iwill try to get it built over the winter. I'm around 5'8", currently riding a medium Ibis Mojo and I've always felt it is too small. I like a more stretched out top tube, used to ride an 18.5" Giant NRS and a 18" Kona from the mid-90's, on a 54cm road bike as well (Spec Roubaix). I think this bike is going to replace my Mojo and my 29er SS, my better half will be happy with one less bike in the apartment


I am getting ready to order a Gnarvester and currently ride a medium Czar. I am leaning towards a 17. I had a medium Beargrease and was happy with the fit. I am considering the 18, as well.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

Coloradoxj13 said:


> Can I start a small discussion on height vs. frame size for the Gnarvester? I'm finally getting close to taking the plunge on this bike since I haven't heard anything further from Vassago about the 29+ VerHauen, Iwill try to get it built over the winter. I'm around 5'8", currently riding a medium Ibis Mojo and I've always felt it is too small. I like a more stretched out top tube, used to ride an 18.5" Giant NRS and a 18" Kona from the mid-90's, on a 54cm road bike as well (Spec Roubaix). I think this bike is going to replace my Mojo and my 29er SS, my better half will be happy with one less bike in the apartment





mnyquist said:


> I am getting ready to order a Gnarvester and currently ride a medium Czar. I am leaning towards a 17. I had a medium Beargrease and was happy with the fit. I am considering the 18, as well.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I would call them and get the exact ST length. I ordered the 19" and it's actually 20.5" to the top of the ST. They apparently measure to where the TT and ST meet. I was wanting to run a 150mm dropper, but instead I'm running 125mm dropper slammed down. It works fine and the bike doesn't feel too big, but I would still like a shorter ST. They said I could have it cut, and not void the warranty, but I just can bring myself to do it.


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

bikeny said:


> Looking good MTB Pilot! I'm really happy with the Nexties so far. You should see quite a bit of improvement over the narrower rims. Definitely play with the your tire pressure to find how low you can go, makes a huge difference in traction and comfort. I can safely run 12 front and 14 back with no rim strikes, lower if I am a little careful.
> 
> One question: Why are you running the sliders so far back? I am running mine just forward of the midpoint without any tire rub. I think it makes the bike more playful on the tight twisty stuff. Maybe you are looking for more stability as the speed picks up?
> 
> Anyway, enjoy!


Thanks bikeny! I got out and did a quick 8 miler on really chuncky terrain and the new wheels and tires performed well. There is a definite improvement in all aspects for the Knards. I started out with 12psi in the front and 14psi in the rear, but ended with just over 10psi front and 11.5 rear.  I'm running a 72 TPI in the rear, so it seems to run less PSI before side wall collapse under my 200lbs a$$. I will run about 8 front and 9 rear on our more tame loose over and sandy trails with no problems; I did with the 35mm Derby's.

My buddy at LBS that finished the rear wheel build for me, moved the sliders back because he had 25psi in the tire when he reinstalled it and thought it would rub. With the pressure down to normal, there is plenty of room and I will probably move them back to mid way or a little forward of mid. I didn't really notice a difference today, but it wasn't a long ride and not a lot of fast tight and twisty trails.


----------



## Truth! (May 4, 2005)

those hoops look AWESOME! Looks like I know what I want for Kwanza! I was thinking of some 35mm and didn't even know Nextie came out with these (so much for them emailing me when they are ready) I was bugging the sh&* out of them last year on them. (I'm sure all of you were too) Nice to hear the ride reports. I am current on a set of Northpaws/hope hubs. I think I would loose 130g per wheel + could run tubless and loose the tube weight (can the sealant)


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

mnyquist said:


> I am getting ready to order a Gnarvester and currently ride a medium Czar. I am leaning towards a 17. I had a medium Beargrease and was happy with the fit. I am considering the 18, as well.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


As always, you should base your frame size on the ETT length, not seat tube length. I'm 5'10" and am on an 18" frame and it's perfect for me. I could probably ride a 17" as well for a more sporty feel, but I'm really happy with the 18".


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

MTB Pilot said:


> Thanks bikeny! I got out and did a quick 8 miler on really chuncky terrain and the new wheels and tires performed well. There is a definite improvement in all aspects for the Knards. I started out with 12psi in the front and 14psi in the rear, but ended with just over 10psi front and 11.5 rear. I'm running a 72 TPI in the rear, so it seems to run less PSI before side wall collapse under my 200lbs a$$. I will run about 8 front and 9 rear on our more tame loose over and sandy trails with no problems; I did with the 35mm Derby's.
> 
> My buddy at LBS that finished the rear wheel build for me, moved the sliders back because he had 25psi in the tire when he reinstalled it and thought it would rub. With the pressure down to normal, there is plenty of room and I will probably move them back to mid way or a little forward of mid. I didn't really notice a difference today, but it wasn't a long ride and not a lot of fast tight and twisty trails.


Wow, that's really low pressure! Then again, a lot of my trails are basically rock gardens! And yeah, the Knards really plump up when at higher pressure, I can't imagine riding them at 25 psi! I actually pumped mine up to 18F & 20R the other day for a dirt road ride, and they rolled surprisingly well, but I could get the back to rub when cranking out of the saddle on a few hills. But at normal trail pressures, no rub at all.

Enjoy the Gnar!


----------



## santacruzer (Nov 30, 2004)

I've finally got my Gnarvester set up perfectly (for me)
Carver fork, Carver bars, Hugo wheels, Chronicle tires, 22lbs of fun. My other bikes are jealous


----------



## neilyo537 (Aug 12, 2011)

Beautiful! How did you get the Hugo and Chronicle right away?


----------



## Vincentg (Sep 24, 2008)

Gnarvestor inspired:

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/custom-carver-my-multitool-937671.html


----------



## Coloradoxj13 (Sep 9, 2009)

santacruzer said:


> I've finally got my Gnarvester set up perfectly (for me)
> Carver fork, Carver bars, Hugo wheels, Chronicle tires, 22lbs of fun. My other bikes are jealous
> View attachment 942048


Is that the 470 or 490 fork? Why did you choose the length that you went with?


----------



## santacruzer (Nov 30, 2004)

neilyo537 said:


> Beautiful! How did you get the Hugo and Chronicle right away?


I had my bike shop order the Hugo's months ago and kept bugging them, the Chronicle I ordered off of eBay from Australia, three weeks and one slow boat later, I got them


----------



## santacruzer (Nov 30, 2004)

Coloradoxj13 said:


> Is that the 470 or 490 fork? Why did you choose the length that you went with?


It's the XC 470, as far as I know it's the only Carver fork compatible with the 29+ tire


----------



## Coloradoxj13 (Sep 9, 2009)

santacruzer said:


> It's the XC 470, as far as I know it's the only Carver fork compatible with the 29+ tire


They offer a fork called the Trail 490 plus with the Gnarvester builds on their website, although there is nothing about the fork that suggests it can fit a 29+. Bikeny has one on his gnarvester though.


----------



## TitaniumV12 (May 16, 2011)

Titanium - The Alloy of The GODS! *Praise* OMFG, it's so attractive! Like a spaceship or something alien to my senses! Never corrodes, rusts, FLEX-tough, no paint needed. Just RAW ALLOY dominating anything hater-nature can conjure! 

I WANT A Ti FRAME OMG! WHY$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

What a ride OP... I wish some day to own similar. For now all I've got is a Antique Ti XTR comp set. Brings a huge smile on my face when I see the "SS" rusting, while the Ti comps show zero effect LOL... "Stainless Steel..." HAHA! Hrmm would like to try that uber Reynolds 85x/95x, but thin tubes and price comparable to Ti... Only a gift or lotto ticket would enable such an adventure. :thumbsup:


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Damn, damn, damn, I messed up  When it was just theory it seemed really cool, would be nice to try 29+, never did order the Blunt35s, stuff happened, but then I got some 29+ tyres to try just for giggles. Well I mounted up one on the front of my Monkey on Tuesday on a WTB ST i25 rim with a 2.4" Ardent out back and did a ride across some of our coral cliffs and it was a blast, didn't feel beat up at all, just about the same for a nice 4-5 hour ride on the FS for the 2 hours out on the rigid. Have a Dually 45mm rim coming to lace for the Monkey front and imagine it'll just be better, so now this has gone from theory and "could be cool" to "I want!" Can't afford Ti for sure, but could swing $500 or so for an alu HT, so if Carver brings that alu version to market I'm going to have to sell some body part to afford a proper build. Rode the FS this evening and nice, high volume 2.35" Ikon on the front looked just anorexic  Little FYI, I tried 29+ in the Phantom and they fit F&R , but not with loads fo room, but 650B could be an interesting alternative.


----------



## jekyll2003 (Jan 30, 2010)

santacruzer said:


> It's the XC 470, as far as I know it's the only Carver fork compatible with the 29+ tire


I just purchased the Carver XC 490 fork with the aluminum steer and 15 mm TA to fit a 29+ tire. The 490 trail version will not fit a 29+ tire.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

jekyll2003 said:


> I just purchased the Carver XC 490 fork with the aluminum steer and 15 mm TA to fit a 29+ tire. The 490 trail version will not fit a 29+ tire.


I think you got the best fork option. The 490 full carbon fork does fit 29+, I ran it for about a year. Not a ton of room, but it worked fine. Unfortunately, mine developed some cracks under the crown, so it went back to Carver. I got the full carbon 470 as a replacement, and not real happy with it. Handling is a bit quicker than I would like, and it doesn't have anymore tire clearance. Trying to decide what to do now.


----------



## Coloradoxj13 (Sep 9, 2009)

They do offer the trail 490 as an option for the gnarvester, so I have to imagine that they approve it for use with 29+.


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

So I did a 31.5 mile, 5000' climbing and descending race this weekend in the McDowell Mts and this bike performed beautifully!!!:thumbsup: The only thing holding it back was me and my only goal was to finish This is a seriously chunky, sandy and loose over hard surface course. Not a single problem and was so comfortable for 4:30 hours of rolling time. My Knards are performing quite well on the Nextie JF rims also. I was blasting the chunky descents and not ever a slip, burp or tear. The Nextie rims are solid as well, I had a least 3 hard bottom out to rim in the race and this morning's ride and no sign of weakness!:thumbsup: I'm using a 27TPI Knard in the rear at about 14 PSI.

This morning in the McDowell's, I took it up a trail that turns into a wash going up into the mts. Its full of sand and boulders and layers of baby heads, and the bike just makes it easy and sooooooo much fun to get through that terrain.

I keep thinking about buying a Borealis Echo frame and Bluto 120mm fork, but I just don't know if it's worth the money to lose .5-.75 lbs, when the Gnarvester is already such a great performer!!??

I F'n LOVE THIS BIKE!!!!!:rockon:


----------



## flyinmike (Dec 17, 2005)

Very cool :thumbsup:

I preordered an Aluminum Gnarvester. Looking forward to it's arrival in January.


MTB Pilot said:


> So I did a 31.5 mile, 5000' climbing and descending race this weekend in the McDowell Mts and this bike performed beautifully!!!:thumbsup: The only thing holding it back was me and my only goal was to finish This is a seriously chunky, sandy and loose over hard surface course. Not a single problem and was so comfortable for 4:30 hours of rolling time. My Knards are performing quite well on the Nextie JF rims also. I was blasting the chunky descents and not ever a slip, burp or tear. The Nextie rims are solid as well, I had a least 3 hard bottom out to rim in the race and this morning's ride and no sign of weakness!:thumbsup: I'm using a 27TPI Knard in the rear at about 14 PSI.
> 
> This morning in the McDowell's, I took it up a trail that turns into a wash going up into the mts. Its full of sand and boulders and layers of baby heads, and the bike just makes it easy and sooooooo much fun to get through that terrain.
> 
> ...


----------



## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

flyinmike said:


> Very cool :thumbsup:
> 
> I preordered an Aluminum Gnarvester. Looking forward to it's arrival in January.


Do they have them listed yet? What's the price like?


----------



## santacruzer (Nov 30, 2004)

From Facebook: 
Carver_Bikes Projected price is $500, release date is by the end of the year. Hopefulle late fall! Geometry will match our existing Gnarvester exactly: Aluminum 29+ Frame In Testing - Carver Bikes


----------



## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

santacruzer said:


> From Facebook:
> Carver_Bikes Projected price is $500, release date is by the end of the year. Hopefulle late fall! Geometry will match our existing Gnarvester exactly: Aluminum 29+ Frame In Testing - Carver Bikes


That's cheaper than a Krampus.


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

The option is available on their website; Don't know if that means it will ship right away. $800


----------



## Coloradoxj13 (Sep 9, 2009)

MTB Pilot said:


> The option is available on their website; Don't know if that means it will ship right away. $800


From Facebook:
" the current price is $599.95, give us a call at 1-800-BIKEMAN or email [email protected] to get on the preorder list. Numbers are still good..."


----------



## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

Coloradoxj13 said:


> From Facebook:
> " the current price is $599.95, give us a call at 1-800-BIKEMAN or email [email protected] to get on the preorder list. Numbers are still good..."


With nice sliders too. Not so sure about aluminum - but the tires are so big it may not matter. With a carbon fork, it would be pounds lighter than the Krampus for about the same price.


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

I'd personally wish it'd have the same geo MTB Pilot has with the 100mm suspension fork, but using a rigid 470-490 A2C one, i.e. 69* HTA



santacruzer said:


> From Facebook:
> Carver_Bikes Projected price is $500, release date is by the end of the year. Hopefulle late fall! Geometry will match our existing Gnarvester exactly: Aluminum 29+ Frame In Testing - Carver Bikes


----------



## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

For $800, you can get your own custom Chinese Ti frame shipped to your door. Seems pretty ambitious for a spec aluminum frame.



MTB Pilot said:


> The option is available on their website; Don't know if that means it will ship right away. $800


----------



## flyinmike (Dec 17, 2005)

Expecting it sometime in January $599 +shipping
I called Carver and placed a preorder a few weeks ago.


----------



## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

flyinmike said:


> Expecting it sometime in January $599 +shipping
> I called Carver and placed a preorder a few weeks ago.


Not a bad deal. I wonder if it will have any creaking issues? I'm between this and the lead filled Krampus.


----------



## satanas (Feb 12, 2005)

Another potential customer here. No hurry, so will wait for more info on geometry and crank clearance - I'd like to run not-so-high Q cranks and an IGH.


----------



## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

For other Gnarvester owners - I am having to choose between a 17" or 19" frame as the al will not come in in 18". Any recommendations? My other bikes measure such that the 18" would be perfect. I'm 5'10", 30-31" inseam. I currently ride a medium Yeti SB-95c and a medium Niner EMD. I had a medium Misfit Dissent which was too small. 

Forrest had suggested sizing up to the 19" if the stand over (31") would work for me. This is what I am leaning towards unless someone has any other input?


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Look at the REACH measurement on your current rides, see what it is, pick the size which is closest to that, if you have to go for slightly bigger/longer size if you want to run a short stem.



trumpus said:


> For other Gnarvester owners - I am having to choose between a 17" or 19" frame as the al will not come in in 18". Any recommendations? My other bikes measure such that the 18" would be perfect. I'm 5'10", 30-31" inseam. I currently ride a medium Yeti SB-95c and a medium Niner EMD. I had a medium Misfit Dissent which was too small.
> 
> Forrest had suggested sizing up to the 19" if the stand over (31") would work for me. This is what I am leaning towards unless someone has any other input?


----------



## Hobbesdaddy (May 19, 2014)

Trumpus - hope this helps: I'm 5'10" with a 31" inseam. And, like you, I'm on a medium SB95. My Gnarvester is a 19" with a 780mm bar and 40mm stem, and I'm very happy with this setup. A 17" frame would definitely be too small "for me" with this bar/stem combination. I have it set up as a rigid SS, and it is unbelievably fun. I had a chance to visit the Carver shop earlier this year, and they are a really GREAT group of folks, and I am sure you will have an excellent experience doing business with them. Looks like you are in NC - I was in Brevard back in September for a week - I had a blast with the Gnarvester running it singlespeed at Bracken Mtn and Dupont, and I used the geared Yeti for some long, steep rides in Pisgah. I found this to be a great combination of bikes for WNC.


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

trumpus said:


> For other Gnarvester owners - I am having to choose between a 17" or 19" frame as the al will not come in in 18". Any recommendations? My other bikes measure such that the 18" would be perfect. I'm 5'10", 30-31" inseam. I currently ride a medium Yeti SB-95c and a medium Niner EMD. I had a medium Misfit Dissent which was too small.
> 
> Forrest had suggested sizing up to the 19" if the stand over (31") would work for me. This is what I am leaning towards unless someone has any other input?


Just remember that the seat tube is more like 20" to the top on the 19" They measure 19" from BB to where the ST and TT meet. I am 6' with a 33" inseam, and I can't run my 150mm LEV on it because of that; I can on a 19" to the top seat tube. I also run a 785mm bar with 40mm stem and just love the fit. Then again, I run short stems and wide bars on everything, even my medium 429c.

They are good people over at Carver... Good luck and enjoy!


----------



## wheelcool (May 23, 2008)

Just got her built the other day. Can't thank Forrest enough for all his help.


----------



## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

Beautiful build. 
Question on the rims: Is that the Jungle Fox? Center drill, or offset?


----------



## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

How did they set up tubeless?


----------



## wheelcool (May 23, 2008)

The rims are indeed the Jungle Foxes with offset drilling. The tires you see in the pic are the innova gravities but I also on whim picked up a set of chupacabra last night. So now I have the front with the gravity and the rear with the chupa. The chupas set up very easy tubeless, really no effort at all. The innova was a much trickery setup due to the fact that the tire fits pretty loose around the rim. Therefore I had to seat the tire first with a tube. Only then, with the aid of my cheap compressor and some seal was I finally able to get it to setup tubeless. This again is no fault of the rim, its just those Innova's just fit so loosely.


----------



## Coloradoxj13 (Sep 9, 2009)

tallguylikacurry said:


> The rims are indeed the Jungle Foxes with offset drilling. The tires you see in the pic are the innova gravities but I also on whim picked up a set of chupacabra last night. So now I have the front with the gravity and the rear with the chupa. The chupas set up very easy tubeless, really no effort at all. The innova was a much trickery setup due to the fact that the tire fits pretty loose around the rim. Therefore I had to seat the tire first with a tube. Only then, with the aid of my cheap compressor and some seal was I finally able to get it to setup tubeless. This again is no fault of the rim, its just those Innova's just fit so loosely.


Can you give us a full build list? You are fairly close (from what I can see in the pics) to the build I am considering. Who built the wheels for you?

I'd love to hear what you think about the ride, have you ridden 29+ before? I'm wanting to pull the trigger on a Gnarvester, but I am reluctant to commit several $K to a format I have never ridden outside of a parking lot (I'm also only 5'8" and worried about big wheels like those).


----------



## wheelcool (May 23, 2008)

I actually haven't taken her for maiden voyage just yet, but messing around on my street the last couple of days I can tell you I'm already in love. I am coming from a Carver 420 that got stolen out of my garage and it feels just as nimble and light. The bigger tires seem to pick up speed a lot faster and the bike comes off the ground with little effort. After my loss I naturally looked at a lot of different options but kept coming back to the 420. Moving up to the gnarvester fits me perfect for the kind of riding I prefer (lots of techy fun stuff) with the possibility of riding in some snow (at least better than the 2.3s I was on).

Here's my build (I laced my own wheels):

Weight: 27lbs
Frame: XL, 12 x 142
Rims: Nextie Jungle Fox
Tires: front - innova gravity, rear - chupacabra
Hubs: I9 Torch
Spokes: DT Comps, brass nipples
Cranks: Raceface Turbine Cinch
Headset: CaneCreek 110
Handlebars: Raceface Turbine
Stem: Raceface Turbine 
Pedals: Canfield crampon magnesium
Brakes: XT's
Rotors: Icetechs
Post: Thomson Elite Setback
Fork: MRP Stage, setup with 130mm travel


----------



## Coloradoxj13 (Sep 9, 2009)

tallguylikacurry said:


> I actually haven't taken her for maiden voyage just yet, but messing around on my street the last couple of days I can tell you I'm already in love. I am coming from a Carver 420 that got stolen out of my garage and it feels just as nimble and light. The bigger tires seem to pick up speed a lot faster and the bike comes off the ground with little effort. After my loss I naturally looked at a lot of different options but kept coming back to the 420. Moving up to the gnarvester fits me perfect for the kind of riding I prefer (lots of techy fun stuff) with the possibility of riding in some snow (at least better than the 2.3s I was on).
> 
> Here's my build (I laced my own wheels):
> 
> ...


Very nice, thanks. I'm going to have mine built as an XT 1x10 by Carver, and swap out for SS when the need arises. I have a feeling that with the der. hanger, you may plan to do the same. I suppose all I'll need is a second chain, ss cog, and spacers. Going to get the i-spec XT shifter so I can just remove the shifter, cable, and rear derailleur by undoing a few bolts and snipping some zip ties. I'm surprised your bike came out to 27lbs with such a high end build...I only need a medium and going with a whisky no 9 fork, so hopefully it will come out a bit lighter. Will throw on a Fox 34 Float when I need more squish.


----------



## bigdog100 (Sep 13, 2009)

I am thinking of building up a Gnarvester, where can I find the thread to convert a fox 29er fork to a 29er+ fork.


----------



## Vincentg (Sep 24, 2008)

http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/krampus-front-suspension-830280.html


----------



## kimberleyturtle (Dec 30, 2009)

Transition time--moving over from Krampus to the Gnarvester.

Planning its intro to dirt at the Kalamunda Circuit this weekend.

frame-L Gnarvester
fork- Carver xc470
post- Syntace P6
saddle- Ergon sm3l
stem- Thomson x4
bar-Thomson carbon
shifter- SRAM XX1 gripshift
cassette- SRAM xx1 10x42
chain-SRAM 11 sp
chainring Absolute Black 32T
crank- Canfield Bros
pedals- Point One Podium2
hubs- DTSwiss 240s
spokes- DTSwiss Comp
nipples-DT Swiss brass
rims-Nextie Jungle Fox, center drilled
skewers- DT Swiss rachet
tires- VeeRubber Trax Fatty
brakes-TRP Spyke
levers-Avid Speeddial 3
lines- Jagwire Ripcord
rotors- TRP 160
headset and bottom bracket--Chris King
l


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Wel that's a nice upgrade I'd think, will be interested to hear your thoughts on if it was a worth while one or just marginal in terms of Ti vs Steel. LOT of spacers you've got going on there on both bikes, seems like either you need a higher rise bar or stem as it's not generally considered good to have more than 40mm of spacers under your stem as it provides too much leverage about the HT to cause issues.



kimberleyturtle said:


> Transition time--moving over from Krampus to the Gnarvester.
> .................]
> View attachment 957857


----------



## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

Whether the bars are raised by steerer spacers, stem, or riser bar, the leverage is the same, it just depends on where your hands are located relative to the headset.

For carbon steerers, most manufactures limit the amount of recommended spacers, but I haven't heard of that for aluminum steerers, and definitely not for steel.

All that being said, I wish manufacturers would stop making these stupid short headtubes, especially on larger frame sizes.



LyNx said:


> Wel that's a nice upgrade I'd think, will be interested to hear your thoughts on if it was a worth while one or just marginal in terms of Ti vs Steel. LOT of spacers you've got going on there on both bikes, seems like either you need a higher rise bar or stem as it's not generally considered good to have more than 40mm of spacers under your stem as it provides too much leverage about the HT to cause issues.


----------



## kimberleyturtle (Dec 30, 2009)

thanks for a generality about spacers and that's been batted around before.
http://forums.mtbr.com/beginners-corner/how-many-headset-spacers-too-many-617402.html

what works for an individual depends on their history, preference, frame, riding style, local trails, and a lengthy list of other factors.


----------



## neilyo537 (Aug 12, 2011)

Good Gnarvester Riders,

I need your expert recommendations; I just installed a pair of Hugo and Chronicle in my small Gnarvester with Niner RDO fork, the tire clearance was squeamishly tight. 
Now, I am thingking of buying the Bluto, has anyone of you guys know if the Bluto will have enough tire clearance for the Hugo and Chronicle? 

Many thanks.


----------



## wheelcool (May 23, 2008)

neilyo537 said:


> Good Gnarvester Riders,
> 
> I need your expert recommendations; I just installed a pair of Hugo and Chronicle in my small Gnarvester with Niner RDO fork, the tire clearance was squeamishly tight.
> Now, I am thingking of buying the Bluto, has anyone of you guys know if the Bluto will have enough tire clearance for the Hugo and Chronicle?
> ...


Sorry I can't be of much help. I ride an xl and have an MRP stage fork that clears no problem. Good luck.


----------



## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

There is a thread for Krampus with front suspension- you should check that out for info on which squishy forks may work. Like wheelcool, I have a MRP stage on my Krampus (running 50mm Nextie Jungle Fox rims and Knards).


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

seat_boy said:


> Whether the bars are raised by steerer spacers, stem, or riser bar, the leverage is the same, it just depends on where your hands are located relative to the headset.


Sorry but that is wrong, the leverage is applied to the steer where the stem is clamped to it. Having your hands in the same place but the stem attached 10mm or 100mm above the headset does change the lever arm.


----------



## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

I was considering the leverage around the headset, which seems like the most likely place for a steerer tube to fail due to too much leverage from the bar.



TwoTone said:


> Sorry but that is wrong, the leverage is applied to the steer where the stem is clamped to it. Having your hands in the same place but the stem attached 10mm or 100mm above the headset does change the lever arm.


----------



## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

Bet I could bust that 100mm worth of spacers fast and blow the tube.


----------



## bigdog100 (Sep 13, 2009)

I just built up my gnarvester. Build went well. The carver dropouts are very nice with thru axle. However I should of never ordered the carver Ti seatpost. What a poor design to adjust seat angle, makes you want to throw it across the garage. You can not get fine adjustments on this POS. The seatpost is not cheap either.


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Curious if anyone's heard anything further on the ALU version, expected delivery dates to the US??? Last update on their FB page said Feb 27th and that's come and gone without hearing anything further.


----------



## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

I expect the port strike delayed their shipment along with everything else.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

seat_boy said:


> I was considering the leverage around the headset, which seems like the most likely place for a steerer tube to fail due to too much leverage from the bar.


Exactly the point. The lever arm starts at the headset. If you clamp the stem at 10mm, that a 10mm lever arm, you clamp it at 100mm that's a 100mm arm. No matter where your hands are, the bending force is being applied at the stem.


----------



## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

No, what matters is where the load is applied (your hands) and where you want to measure it (the headset in this case).

If you don't understand this, draw it out as a free body diagram. If you don't understand what that is, stop arguing now.



TwoTone said:


> Exactly the point. The lever arm starts at the headset. If you clamp the stem at 10mm, that a 10mm lever arm, you clamp it at 100mm that's a 100mm arm. No matter where your hands are, the bending force is being applied at the stem.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

seat_boy said:


> No, what matters is where the load is applied (your hands) and where you want to measure it (the headset in this case).
> 
> If you don't understand this, draw it out as a free body diagram. If you don't understand what that is, stop arguing now.


LOL.

It's simple really. Put a tube in a vise with 10mm sticking out and try and bend it, now leave 100mm sticking out, you don't need a free body diagram to know which is easier to bend.

Moving your hand position with a riser/dropper stem doesn't change where the force is transferred to the steerer.


----------



## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

TwoTone said:


> LOL.
> 
> It's simple really. Put a tube in a vise with 10mm sticking out and try and bend it, now leave 100mm sticking out, you don't need a free body diagram to know which is easier to bend.
> 
> Moving your hand position with a riser/dropper stem doesn't change where the force is transferred to the steerer.


Yes, pretty simple.


----------



## flyinmike (Dec 17, 2005)

LyNx said:


> Curious if anyone's heard anything further on the ALU version, expected delivery dates to the US??? Last update on their FB page said Feb 27th and that's come and gone without hearing anything further.


I'm in the process of building my AL Gnarvester. 
it arrived at my door last friday.. Cool bike, I'm really looking forward to riding this one.


----------



## flyinmike (Dec 17, 2005)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ScaryJerry (Jan 12, 2004)

I like everything about that.


----------



## silver2ks4 (Oct 29, 2011)

Flyinmike. How is the clearance on the 36. The frame/build looks good. Looks like the chainstays/yoke are different as well as the seat stays compared to the ti. also what rims are those?


----------



## flyinmike (Dec 17, 2005)

Hugo rims..
I don't think the 36 is going to work out long term. Clearance is way too tight.
I also tried a Niner RDO fork and the tire won't even turn it rubs so bad.
I guess it's going to be a bit of a search to find the right fork


----------



## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

Sounds like you may need the right fork from Carver. Running that bike with a short fork like the Niner would be a sin anyway.


----------



## silver2ks4 (Oct 29, 2011)

There is good clearance with the chupa/50mm in an mrp stage. There is less with the 52mm hugo though. for whatever reason the 2mm in extra width takes up a lot of room in forks.


----------



## Trailice (Oct 30, 2009)

Would a 40mm rim like the nextie give more wiggle room with the mrp stage/ tire combo?
It is a expensive fork, I just want to have a real world idea what fits in the fork without rubbing.


----------



## flyinmike (Dec 17, 2005)

The Fox36 has a strange bulge inside the casting arch right at the widest part of the tire casing.
Doesn't make any sense to me why an engineer would do that. it looks purely cosmetic.
The fork is really for another project so its not that big of a deal. But, it would have been cool if it worked out.

it's true a too short fork would be a sin. This thing begs for something beefy.


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Looking nice, definitely post up when you've finished the build in a new thread with details and pics. This is definitely on my short list as the last bike to finish out my quiver, although if the 650B+ tyres start to become available, that could also solved my problems with wanting more rear end cush on my Monkey and Paradox. What size? Guessing SM from all that standover.



flyinmike said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## flyinmike (Dec 17, 2005)

Yes it's a 15"


----------



## rusty_ss (Jan 28, 2006)

After riding my Gnarvester as a rigid singlespeed for the last year I put some gears and an MRP Stage fork on it for a weekend in the mountains. Talk about different! Now I have 2 bikes I love and it only takes about 15 minutes to swap between them!


----------



## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

Trailice said:


> Would a 40mm rim like the nextie give more wiggle room with the mrp stage/ tire combo?
> It is a expensive fork, I just want to have a real world idea what fits in the fork without rubbing.


I think so. The closest part is the bulge for the upper seals being close to the sidewall. The rest of the arch has plenty of clearance. So anything that makes the sidewalls a little narrower would do the trick. Having said that, I have had no issues using 50mm rims with my Stage.

With 50mm rims and a Knard it is tight (although it worked fine for me without issues).

With the slightly narrower Innova tire it has more wiggle room. Even more room when I had a Knard in there on a 35mm rim.

I have posted pics of my setup in one of the Krampus threads.


----------



## wheelcool (May 23, 2008)

There's a nice little write up on the gnarvester in the latest dirtrag magazine (183). Although the tester has the gnar setup much different then i have mine and seems to feel its best suited for touring/exploring, he gave it awesome props. Very cool to see Carver highlighted like this. Coming from a 420, my gnar is about as sweet a ride as i could dream up. As a ss with a 150 mrp stage fork, I've been crushing every trail I've taken her on including some hardcore tech rides around moab, fruita and grand junction.


----------



## Coloradoxj13 (Sep 9, 2009)

I had made up my mind on building up a Gnarvester, and the Dirt Rag review really does speak volumes about the bike, but I am starting to have second thoughts now that 650b+ seems to be gaining popularity. I'm only 5'8", and a little concerned that 29+ may be a little too tall for me...anyone my height riding a Gnarvester and happy with it?


----------



## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

wheelcool said:


> There's a nice little write up on the gnarvester in the latest dirtrag magazine (183). Although the tester has the gnar setup much different then i have mine and seems to feel its best suited for touring/exploring, he gave it awesome props. Very cool to see Carver highlighted like this. Coming from a 420, my gnar is about as sweet a ride as i could dream up. As a ss with a 150 mrp stage fork, I've been crushing every trail I've taken her on including some hardcore tech rides around moab, fruita and grand junction.


Pics of your set up with this 150mm fork?


----------



## wheelcool (May 23, 2008)

MMcG said:


> Pics of your set up with this 150mm fork?


Here you go...









The front tire is gravity Vidar at about 12psi.


----------



## TuTone T (Dec 12, 2012)

Flyingmike, 

It's puzzling to me that your RDO fork doesn't work with your hugos and Chupacabras. I have this set up and it allows about 1/8" on either side of the tire.
Kinda tight but been working so far.

Too bad your legs aren't longer so I could see what a real Alu Gnarverster frame looks like


----------



## jekyll2003 (Jan 30, 2010)

flyinmike, how did you place an order for the ALU version. I don't see on Carver or Bikeman websites. I saw the frame listed in the Bikeman print ad in Dirt Rag this month, but son't know how to order.


----------



## Coloradoxj13 (Sep 9, 2009)

E-mail them, they are a small shop in Maine, one of the owners will respond pretty quickly.


----------



## Bear Spleen (Aug 12, 2006)

Hi Everyone,

As you may have heard, we received the Aluminum Gnarvester frames a few weeks ago! Super exciting to finally see them...we apologize for the delays! While we don't have control over the port strikes and such, at this point we SHOULD know enough to build a couple of extra months to the ETA so ultimately it's on us. All of the preorders should have shipped by now, and we are ready to accept orders whenever.

As a local bike shop first and foremost and Bikeman/Carver Bikes second, we're a bit behind the 8-ball on listing the frames online. Next week we should be ready to rock and roll with online orders for the Aluminum Gnarvester, but in the meantime if you'd like to give us an email or call we're happy to get a frame out the door for you.

Deets! Where's the deets? Here's the deets!

Price is $599.95 excluding shipping, which runs about $40-$60 to the lower 48 US States with UPS or $70-$100 international. Like all our other frames, this price includes the sliding dropouts of your choice (Paragon Machine Works). Be aware that some thru-axle setups are slightly annoying to set up in the "slammed" chainstay position, so it's best to slam the stays AFTER installing the thru-axle.

Weight on a naked medium frame is about 4.3 pounds (1900g) or 4.75 pounds (2150g) with dropouts, hardware, tensioners, etc.

We offer the Aluminum Gnarvester in four sizes only, which are measured from center of bottom bracket to top of seat tube: 15", 17", 19", and 21". Effective top tube measurements are 22", 23", 24", and 25" respectively. We offer and stock all three of our titanium frame models in 1" increments from 14" to 24", so if you're looking for a more specific fit then that's the way to go. If you need something different than one of our 11 sizes, we're happy to make a custom titanium frame for you (upcharges apply) but aluminum frames are production only.

The titanium Gnarvester's seat tube length is measured to the top of the toptube rather than the top of the seat tube, but other than that the geometry of the titanium and aluminum Gnarvesters are basically identical. You can check the exact numbers on our website in the next couple of weeks.

Rear spacing on the frame is standard 135mm/142mm, and the bottom bracket is 73mm threaded. In order to keep a standard bottom bracket, the crank and chainring selection on aluminum Gnarvesters is partially limited. Being that the frame is not compatible with a front derailleur, the ideal setup and our clear favorite is a RaceFace CINCH style direct-mount chainring in the flipped, concave position. This allows for the full range of tooth counts starting at 26t (even a 38t works but it's wicked friggin' tight). Due to the increased chainline from using the outer position coupled with the bigger diameter wheels, it's best to gear down.

Most standard triple cranks can be used, but only with a 30-34t chainring in the outer position. Single-specific cranks with a spider like the first gen XX1 crank, or double cranks with no outer position like the XT M786 generally don't work. To help with chainline, feel free to swap the 2.5mm bottom bracket spacer to the non-drive side if space allows.

Tire and rim selections were pretty limited when we started this project over a year ago, and while we are excited to see the new options, keep in mind that some quirks may still crop up as component diversity continues to expand.

The last thing is decals. The decals we've been using on our titanium frames don't stick perfectly on the aluminum frames, thanks to the textured finish. We have decals specific to the Aluminum Gnarvester in the works, and once they're in, all frames will ship with them. Contact us later if you were in the early boat and want to grab the new decals.

OK, I think that's it! We're a busy shop and it's tune-up season, so if you have a question or comment, please email me at [email protected] for the fastest response. You can also reach me at 1-800-BIKEMAN extension 2, but if someone needs to buy a tube then I might have to put you on hold. (Don't worry, one of our mechanics sings the hold music!)

Time to ride!


----------



## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

I'm interested in one, but have a question about that 490mm fork. What's the max rotor size? Thought I saw 160mm, which is on the small side.


----------



## Bear Spleen (Aug 12, 2006)

The O'Beast fork and the XC470 have a "max" rotor size of 160mm in that there's limited clearance for a bigger rotor. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't.

All our other forks, including the 490, have no max rotor size.


----------



## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

So has anyone else picked up one of the aluminum Gnarvester frames? I'd like to see what some of the bigger frame sizes look like.


----------



## TuTone T (Dec 12, 2012)

Me too


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

I have a pic of Forest's 19" I can post, but I'm betting you've already seen it. Only seen one other built and it was a 17".


----------



## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

Nathan - post up the pics! Especially the 17" one!!


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

17"








19"


----------



## tim.johnston (May 11, 2007)

For those of you who switched from a Krampus size large which did you go for, the 19" or 20", any regrets on size choice and how did it compare fit wise?


----------



## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Anybody know if you can get the Alloy Gnarvester with 135x10 dropouts?


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

PHeller said:


> Anybody know if you can get the Alloy Gnarvester with 135x10 dropouts?


Yep, can get it with any axle format that Paragon makes in that style sliding dropout.


----------



## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Anybody have pictures of Gnarvester in a 15" frame size? 

I'm thinking of one of these for my wife, equipped with 165mm cranks, a 120mm fork, chainstays slammed, and 29x2.4 tires.


----------



## Bear Spleen (Aug 12, 2006)

Here's a pic of a 17" demo, will try to grab an image of a 21" next time one goes out.


----------



## Bear Spleen (Aug 12, 2006)

PHeller said:


> Anybody have pictures of Gnarvester in a 15" frame size?
> 
> I'm thinking of one of these for my wife, equipped with 165mm cranks, a 120mm fork, chainstays slammed, and 29x2.4 tires.


The 15" has a straight top tube, will contact my friend and try to get him to post a picture.


----------



## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Flyinmike posted a pic of his 15" awhile back. Looks good.

I just wonder if I'll be able to run it with 120mm "normal" 29er fork and 29x2.4 or 275x3.25 tires or if she'll have pedal strikes all the time.


----------



## Bear Spleen (Aug 12, 2006)

PHeller said:


> Flyinmike posted a pic of his 15" awhile back. Looks good.
> 
> I just wonder if I'll be able to run it with 120mm "normal" 29er fork and 29x2.4 or 275x3.25 tires or if she'll have pedal strikes all the time.


Might be cutting it a bit close...BBH is around 12" with a regular 29er wheelset. Keep in mind, 27.5 clearance is different on the aluminum Gnarvester than the titanium version. The aluminum version has a yoke that tapers down a bit where the 27.5" clearance needs to be.


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

At about 14 months now on the ole girl, I know she is here to stay and decided to give her the final update. Out with the 2012 Fox 34/120 RL and in with a 2016 Fox 34/130 Fit4.:thumbsup: Madden voyage tomorrow


----------



## wheelcool (May 23, 2008)

Couldn't agree more with you. I love my gnarvester! Congrats on the sweet upgrade.


----------



## santacruzer (Nov 30, 2004)

MTB Pilot said:


> At about 14 months now on the ole girl, I know she is here to stay and decided to give her the final update. Out with the 2012 Fox 34/120 RL and in with a 2016 Fox 34/130 Fit4.:thumbsup: Madden voyage tomorrow


Nice, that's one of the things I love about the Dirt Wizard, being able to run a newer Fox fork!


----------



## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Any updates on the AL frames? I'm interested in building up a SS!


----------



## Ant-Eater (Aug 25, 2011)

trumpus said:


> Any updates on the AL frames? I'm interested in building up a SS!


I rode one during NEMBAfest and they're pretty nice. They handle pretty much the same, but I still prefer my Ti Gnarvester a little more.


----------



## 1x1clyde (Oct 5, 2005)

Another great day on the trail!










Sent from a over priced hand held device


----------



## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

purple ano...FTW!


----------



## MTB Pilot (Oct 23, 2010)

1x1clyde said:


> another great day on the trail!
> 
> Sent from a over priced hand held device


i agree!


----------



## Trailice (Oct 30, 2009)

trumpus said:


> Any updates on the AL frames? I'm interested in building up a SS!


Most fun bike I have ever owned!
Fox 34 27.5+ fork
Nextie 50mm rims
Dirt wizards 120 tpi(15.5 front 17 back)1006-1009 grams, Surly claims 850
Waiting on the 60 tpi version to get to 14-16psi, hopefuly.
I have heard very good things about the Vittorio Bomboloni but they are 1350 grams, 60 tpi DW's might be close to that though.
Did the VT 50 and had very similar time to last year, with much heavier tires this year.


----------



## neilyo537 (Aug 12, 2011)

Carver Gnarvester, the most versatile 29 Plus out there


----------



## TuTone T (Dec 12, 2012)

The packaging on the Bomboloni tire that i picked up says 965 grams (120 tpi).
Didn't weigh them though thats 29 x 3.0 

So trailice, thats a 29 inch wheel with a 29+ Dirt wizard in the 27+ fox fork?


----------



## neilyo537 (Aug 12, 2011)

*Another version*


----------



## neilyo537 (Aug 12, 2011)

*Another version*

W/ Fox Talas 90-120.


----------



## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

^Awesome build!


----------



## Trailice (Oct 30, 2009)

TuTone T said:


> The packaging on the Bomboloni tire that i picked up says 965 grams (120 tpi).
> Didn't weigh them though thats 29 x 3.0
> 
> So trailice, thats a 29 inch wheel with a 29+ Dirt wizard in the 27+ fox fork?


Yes you are correct, 45mm ID nextie rim, 29x3 DW and 2016 fox 34 27+ boost fork.
Have really enjoyed the stiffer casing on the 60tpi DW's, Makes it a MUCH more capable tire.


----------



## Stray Mutt (Dec 3, 2011)

Got my Gnarvester last week. A Singlespeed SIR9 was the donor bike for all the parts. Replaced 2.25 RoRo's with Bomboloni's and took off. 
Just like the SIR9 in many ways but better, a little lighter, just as comfortable rigid, climbs great, rolls over techy stuff better, smooth and fast. Really nice bike.


----------



## TuTone T (Dec 12, 2012)

BomBoloni is a good choice with that fork. nice bike


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

If you don't mind, what size did you get? Have you checked the geo measurements against the web site to see if they match?



Stray Mutt said:


> View attachment 1073919
> 
> 
> Got my Gnarvester last week. A Singlespeed SIR9 was the donor bike for all the parts. Replaced 2.25 RoRo's with Bomboloni's and took off.
> Just like the SIR9 in many ways but better, a little lighter, just as comfortable rigid, climbs great, rolls over techy stuff better, smooth and fast. Really nice bike.


----------



## Stray Mutt (Dec 3, 2011)

LyNx said:


> If you don't mind, what size did you get? Have you checked the geo measurements against the web site to see if they match?


It's a 20". I have not measured it myself. Carvers chart did use a 483mm A2C fork and I had the 470mm niner tapered fork so I used the 14mm lower stack height of an Angleset at 0 degrees to make it come out the same. 
It rides and fits like I expected based on the tables for both bikes. So I don't think it varies much from the chart if at all. 
I like it.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## willembad (Feb 2, 2013)

Nevermind  Already answered.


----------



## willembad (Feb 2, 2013)

Stray Mutt said:


> Carvers chart did use a 483mm A2C fork and I had the 470mm niner tapered fork so I used the 14mm lower stack height of an Angleset at 0 degrees to make it come out the same.


Could you please post the model lower cup you used, or the set number from Cane Creek? I'm trying to find the combo that gives anything more than 4mm lower stack. Thanks!


----------



## Stray Mutt (Dec 3, 2011)

It's the ZS44/EC56 Angleset. It's changing to the external cup on the bottom that gives the extra stack height.


----------



## willembad (Feb 2, 2013)

Thank you! I'll check that out. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## willembad (Feb 2, 2013)

Quick question for owners of the Ti frames. All the pictures I found online appears to show cable stops on the drive-side seat stay designed to have exposed cable for the rear derailleur. Is this still the case on new frames or are they now like the aluminum version made to run full length housing?


----------



## Stray Mutt (Dec 3, 2011)

I'm a long way from my Gnarvester right now. I think it's set up for full housing. 
But I'd contact Carver with any questions. Great guys.
There are some running frame changes though, mine came with internal routing ports for a dropper post and rear rack mounts. Not anything I'll probably use but it is versatile like a Swiss Army knife. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Pick (Feb 12, 2012)

*Gnarvester AL*

Tons of very cool Gnarvesters here; they have inspired my newest bike...









AL Frame (XL)
Reba 27+/29 Fork
XT Brakes
S1400 crank / SRAM GX 1x11 (30 x 10-42)
Sun Ringle Duroc 40 rims
SRAM 900 Front hub (15x110)
Hadley rear hub (12x142)
DT Swiss Competition spokes
Maxxis Chronicles

Thanks for all the information on the +board. I went with the Reba and Duroc 40's based off recommendations here. Just finished the build so I hope to go get it dirty later today!


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Nice AL Gnar!!


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I'm the new owner of a lightly used 20" Ti Gnarvester. 

One question on set up. Going with 1x11 Shimano, 11-46 cassette from SunRace, and RF Turbine cinch crank. 

Is the best setup to run the chainring inside out (lettering in)? Thanks. 

BTW: psyched to get this thing built up! Will post pictures when done.



Edit: Normal cinch ring orientation works fine.


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

You can look up the chain line of your crank, and it should be on the Carver website. Worst case scenario mount it inner, then look and see if the chain is straight when on the middle cogs, or if it should move


----------



## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

*Start the clock!*


----------



## A1an (Jun 3, 2007)

reamer41 said:


> I'm the new owner of a lightly used 20" Ti Gnarvester.
> 
> One question on set up. Going with 1x11 Shimano, 11-46 cassette from SunRace, and RF Turbine cinch crank.
> 
> ...


What size chainring? I couldn't run my 32t on the inside of my Shimano cranks. No clearance between the ring and the frame.


----------



## Bear Spleen (Aug 12, 2006)

Here's a rough guide for the Ti Gnarvester with cranks, although keep in mind there's a lot of variation. Certain non-standard cranks (like the 156Q version of the XX1) simply don't work.

Direct Mount (outer)? Yes
Direct Mount (inner)? Occasionally
Triple (inner)? No
Triple (middle)? Usually
Triple (outer)? Yes
Double (inner)? Occasionally
Double (outer)? Yes


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

*Shakedown Ride!*

I just got this put together yesterday. Need to trim hoses and make a few minor adjustments...


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

Got a longer ride in yesterday. Horrendous creaking from the frame. I can only imagine its from the dropout inserts moving in the frame. It was shipped by previous owner with star lock washers between the washer and the bolt head. After looking at Paragon's site and other pictures of carvers I see these are not present.

I removed the lock washers and re torqued the bolts with some blue locktite. I hope this quiets things down! I've also ordered the Ti bolts and double washers from Paragon.

Anyone else have issues with creaking and popping from the frame?


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

Using new Ti bolts and steel washers from paragon, and removing the lock washers seems to have mostly resolved the creaking.

Still trying to dial in air pressure. Down to 10psi in the back. Front is around 12. Lower pressure up front seems to make for funky slow speed steering, and having the sus fork the ride in front is fine.

Any guidance or suggestions? 
I'm about 225 ready to ride.

Also, do you seal the internal routing ports if not in use? If so, how?


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

reamer41 said:


> Using new Ti bolts and steel washers from paragon, and removing the lock washers seems to have mostly resolved the creaking.
> 
> Still trying to dial in air pressure. Down to 10psi in the back. Front is around 12. Lower pressure up front seems to make for funky slow speed steering, and having the sus fork the ride in front is fine.
> 
> ...


I'm 152# or so, and I run 18 rear/ 15 front.

We have some sharp rocks out here though, so I err on the side of defense. I really can't imagine going that low though!


----------



## A1an (Jun 3, 2007)

I'm 185ish and run 20 in the rear. Found if I ride less the rear gets too squirmy and rubs the frame on high speed corners. Running a Chronicle on a Blunt 35...perhaps the narrower rim has something to do with it.


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

reamer41 said:


> Using new Ti bolts and steel washers from paragon, and removing the lock washers seems to have mostly resolved the creaking.


did you use loctite on the new bolts?

it is much better to use a bit of grease on the threads of your slider bolts instead. I've seen people bung up the hardware and attempt to use all kinds of weird hardware, lock washers, over torquing, loctite, or some other ill advised method to keep their sliders in place when all you should need is a dab of grease.

it prevents binding when torquing down the bolts so you get the proper clamping force. that way they will stay put. save the loctite for your rotor bolts.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

*OneSpeed* said:


> did you use loctite on the new bolts?
> 
> it is much better to use a bit of grease on the threads of your slider bolts instead. I've seen people bung up the hardware and attempt to use all kinds of weird hardware, lock washers, over torquing, loctite, or some other ill advised method to keep their sliders in place when all you should need is a dab of grease.
> 
> it prevents binding when torquing down the bolts so you get the proper clamping force. that way they will stay put. save the loctite for your rotor bolts.


I did use a bit of blue loctite. Just following Paragon's recommendations. I may try just a dab of geese next time I have them loose.

So, from your comments above, I would guess that people have issues helping these sliding dropouts from moving and making noise.... This is my first frame with non-fixed dropouts. I hadn't thought it would be a problem area.


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

reamer41 said:


> I did use a bit of blue loctite. Just following Paragon's recommendations. I may try just a dab of geese next time I have them loose.
> 
> So, from your comments above, I would guess that people have issues helping these sliding dropouts from moving and making noise.... This is my first frame with non-fixed dropouts. I hadn't thought it would be a problem area.


there's not a problem with them that i'm aware of. IMO it's most commonly the amateur mechanic's fault if something goes wrong, not the sliders themselves. I was unaware that Paragon suggests using Loctite. I've never had problems with the bolts backing out of my sliders, which is the only reason i would use loctite. usually i read about people having problems with slippage, or see the results of some hack mechanic doing everything wrong thing imaginable instead of just using them the way they were intended to be used. you'll probably be just fine.


----------



## TooSteep (Oct 6, 2012)

Anybody set up their Gnarvester with the Fox 34 boost 150mm travel fork? Too high up front? How does it pedal?

Thanks.


----------



## TooSteep (Oct 6, 2012)

I'm wondering what approximate length seatpost I will need: 19" Gnarvester, I'm 6'0" with 32" inseam. Is anyone able to give me a ballpark length?


----------



## Stray Mutt (Dec 3, 2011)

6 foot even. Normal torso to leg ratio. On a 20" and using a niner setback post. It's 400mm. Could be shorter though as its set on 8 out of 9 on the height scale on the post for me. Maybe close to half the post in the seat tube. Hope that helps. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## rdbandkab (Dec 31, 2010)

*21" Gnarvester*

Gates Belt Drive.









I wonder how a 20" Gnarvester frame would work with regular 29'r tires....hmmmm.. Anyone "back roading" one of these in Ti or Al? I'd like to 86 my old HiFi and move the wheels and components over to a hardtail BUT keep the ability to convert to a SS or 29+ if the need arises.


----------



## MichiganFan (Sep 30, 2014)

rdbandkab said:


> Gates Belt Drive.
> 
> View attachment 1094906
> 
> ...


I just put my Stans Crest wheels and 29x2.2 Racing Ralphs on mine.


----------



## MichiganFan (Sep 30, 2014)

They fit fine. 21.6 pounds with the crest wheels.


----------



## S.O.B. (Mar 17, 2008)

rdbandkab said:


> I wonder how a 20" Gnarvester frame would work with regular 29'r tires....hmmmm.. Anyone "back roading" one of these in Ti or Al? I'd like to 86 my old HiFi and move the wheels and components over to a hardtail BUT keep the ability to convert to a SS or 29+ if the need arises.


I switched out my Surly 29+ tires for 2.35 Nobby Nics front and rear (and a Reba fork) on my 17" Ti Gnarvester. Been riding it like this for the last year with a 1x10 setup. 
It rides fantastic, but I am getting ready to switch back to a rigid 29+ single speed.
Good Times.


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

S.O.B. said:


> I switched out my Surly 29+ tires for 2.35 Nobby Nics front and rear (and a Reba fork) on my 17" Ti Gnarvester. Been riding it like this for the last year with a 1x10 setup.
> It rides fantastic, but I am getting ready to switch back to a rigid 29+ single speed.
> Good Times.


Got a photo of that bad boy? How does the 17" feel and what size are your other bikes?

Also, in 29+, how close are you to your overlap?

The answer to any or all of those world be awesome!


----------



## rdbandkab (Dec 31, 2010)

Good to know!


----------



## S.O.B. (Mar 17, 2008)

tfinator said:


> Got a photo of that bad boy? How does the 17" feel and what size are your other bikes?
> 
> Also, in 29+, how close are you to your overlap?
> 
> The answer to any or all of those world be awesome!


Yes I just happened to have a some pics. Keep in mind, I am 5'8" (with shoes on), and the 17" is perfect for me. My other mtb is a Niner SIR 9 in size small, but the reach on the small Niner is the same as the Carver 17". The build of the Sir 9 is not as high end, but I am using the same tires, stem, bar etc. just not the carbon rims and cranks (all my cranks are 170's).
This bike feels great. It feels good as a single speed and it feels good with gears. I actually sold (parted out) my Air9 to build this up as my racing days are done and I waned a comfortable ride that I could take bikepacking or long relaxing rides as well as an occasional event if I get the bug again.
I have no toe overlap issues when I ride. Just yesterday I was railing some switchbacks while some of the guys (with full susp.) were hitting the dust trying to negotiate the tight turns (going uphill). No issue with toe and tire, not even when I have the 3.0's on there.
Hope this helps.


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

S.O.B. said:


> Yes I just happened to have a some pics. Keep in mind, I am 5'8" (with shoes on), and the 17" is perfect for me. My other mtb is a Niner SIR 9 in size small, but the reach on the small Niner is the same as the Carver 17". The build of the Sir 9 is not as high end, but I am using the same tires, stem, bar etc. just not the carbon rims and cranks (all my cranks are 170's).
> This bike feels great. It feels good as a single speed and it feels good with gears. I actually sold (parted out) my Air9 to build this up as my racing days are done and I waned a comfortable ride that I could take bikepacking or long relaxing rides as well as an occasional event if I get the bug again.
> I have no toe overlap issues when I ride. Just yesterday I was railing some switchbacks while some of the guys (with full susp.) were hitting the dust trying to negotiate the tight turns (going uphill). No issue with toe and tire, not even when I have the 3.0's on there.
> Hope this helps.
> View attachment 1095079


Awesome dude, thanks. It sounds like that's the size I may want too, then.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

Replacing the sliding dropout bolts and washers, and chasing down some other creaks -- headset, seatpost, and seat -- I now have a silent running Gnarvester! 

Very sweet machine. 

I'm continually surprised at how fast it is / can be. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

For any future buyers:

I ordered my Gnarvester on August 15, 2016. I have never had a custom builder meet their estimated delivery time before Carver. The two month delivery is just short of amazing. Custom geometry done perfectly. I am very impressed with the quality of the torchwork. As good as any I have seen. The finish is first rate too.

Davis was great to work with. A very reasonable price and delivered on time, I could not ask for anything more.


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

mike_kelly said:


> For any future buyers:
> 
> I ordered my Gnarvester on August 15, 2016. I have never had a custom builder meet their estimated delivery time before Carver. The two month delivery is just short of amazing. Custom geometry done perfectly. I am very impressed with the quality of the torchwork. As good as any I have seen. The finish is first rate too.
> 
> ...


Fekkin sweet dude.

Looking forward to ride report, build specs, mor pics!!!


----------



## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

rdbandkab said:


> Gates Belt Drive.


where'd you split it for the belt?


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

monogod said:


> where'd you split it for the belt?


I'd assume he split the drive side chain stay where it's designed to split... Just forward of the dropout.


----------



## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

Working in it. Pix of the graphics I had made up:















Fox 32 and the Innova Transformers don't clear but the Chupacabra clears no problem.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

mike_kelly said:


> Working in it. Pix of the graphics I had made up:


Wow!
Very unique.....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

mike_kelly said:


> Working in it. Pix of the graphics I had made up:
> 
> View attachment 1102535
> View attachment 1102536
> ...


That does look awesome. Good info on the transformer. I really like it as a front, didn't think it was that much bigger then a chupa


----------



## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

tfinator said:


> That does look awesome. Good info on the transformer. I really like it as a front, didn't think it was that much bigger then a chupa


Well after I pulled the front wheel to install the rotor the chupa is hitting the arch. Must not have had the wheel fully up into the dropouts the first time. Still more clearance than the Transformer but it is not going to work. My fox has a hollow arch so if I try and dremel it out it will be like eliminating the arch.

It pisses me off that vendors don't give an axle to arch measurement. What good is an axle to crown measurement? Not sure what I am going to do for a fork now. I want something that works for any tire and not something I have to worry about getting a rock stuck in the tire and throwing me off as it jams in the arch.

I'll probably end up with a Gnarvester fork but I'll have to rebuild the front wheel with a boost hub.

BTW the headtube decal is a snake eye not a kiwi!


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

mike_kelly said:


> Well after I pulled the front wheel to install the rotor the chupa is hitting the arch. Must not have had the wheel fully up into the dropouts the first time. Still more clearance than the Transformer but it is not going to work. My fox has a hollow arch so if I try and dremel it out it will be like eliminating the arch.
> 
> It pisses me off that vendors don't give an axle to arch measurement. What good is an axle to crown measurement? Not sure what I am going to do for a fork now. I want something that works for any tire and not something I have to worry about getting a rock stuck in the tire and throwing me off as it jams in the arch.
> 
> ...


Yeah, axle to crown is for geometry purposes. Fortunately there are now a number of 29+ fork options, but it depends on your budget.


----------



## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

Yes indeed or how cheap you are. I can't get my head around $1000 forks. But the Manitou Machete 29+ looks like the first in my universe.


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

mike_kelly said:


> Yes indeed or how cheap you are. I can't get my head around $1000 forks. But the Manitou Machete 29+ looks like the first in my universe.


If you pick that up I would love a review. There's not a ton of info right now


----------



## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

tfinator said:


> If you pick that up I would love a review. There's not a ton of info right now


It appears to be in short supply.


----------



## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

monogod said:


> where'd you split it for the belt?


If you look in the picture above of the rear dropout the end of the chainstay has a bolt in it. You can see in the picture a fine vertical line near the end of the chainstay. Unscrew the allen bolt and the stay comes apart for the belt.


----------



## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

mike_kelly said:


> If you look in the picture above of the rear dropout the end of the chainstay has a bolt in it. You can see in the picture a fine vertical line near the end of the chainstay. Unscrew the allen bolt and the stay comes apart for the belt.


thx.

for some reason i never noticed that on mine. :crazy:


----------



## Jcl523 (Mar 14, 2015)

TooSteep said:


> Anybody set up their Gnarvester with the Fox 34 boost 150mm travel fork? Too high up front? How does it pedal?
> 
> Thanks.


I had the 140mm Fox 34 boost on mine. Personally, I'd go with the 120mm. The 140 was a little too high for me.


----------



## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

mike_kelly said:


> It appears to be in short supply.


I decided not to throw good money after bad and bite the bullet and got a Manitou Magnum Pro 29+. I tend to be the kind of person who looks not for the latest and greatest but the best value. OK ya I'm a retrogrouch. I just did not like the idea of other than a 9mm QR which has always done me fine. But in this case I wasted the money on the hubs and the Fox fork. I went with the Manitou because it was designed for 29+, I could not find a Machete, and I figured it would have the greatest clearance. It did. Comparing to the Fox Factory Float 32 ICT which has 380mm the Magnum is 410mm over a inch more clearance. Now I don't have to worry about which tires I can use. As soon as Davis Carver gets me my new Industry Nine Classic hubs I am back in business.

So the final build will be, again choosing my idea of value and simplicity:
Carver Gnarvester custom geometry
I9 Classic Hubs 12x42 and 15x110
Easton ARC 45 - tubed no leaking goo
TRP Spyke brakes - mechanical no leaking hydraultics
Aerodyne bars, seatpost, stem spacers, top cap
1990's Selle Italia gel flite - the saddle that works best for me
Sram GX 10 speed 1x with 40t Fourier cog.
Grip Shift - always been a grip shift guy
Innova Transformers/Chupacabra 29x3.0

Ride report won't mean anything because I have never owned a mountain bike that fit me. So it will likely be a big difference just because it fits-finally.

Davis really has been great to deal with.


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Sweeeeet. Glad you got it sorted. Please update with sufficient bike porn when you get it all put together!


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

mike_kelly said:


> I decided not to throw good money after bad and bite the bullet and got a Manitou Magnum Pro 29+. I tend to be the kind of person who looks not for the latest and greatest but the best value. OK ya I'm a retrogrouch. I just did not like the idea of other than a 9mm QR which has always done me fine. But in this case I wasted the money on the hubs and the Fox fork. I went with the Manitou because it was designed for 29+, I could not find a Machete, and I figured it would have the greatest clearance. It did. Comparing to the Fox Factory Float 32 ICT which has 380mm the Magnum is 410mm over a inch more clearance. Now I don't have to worry about which tires I can use. As soon as Davis Carver gets me my new Industry Nine Classic hubs I am back in business.
> 
> So the final build will be, again choosing my idea of value and simplicity:
> Carver Gnarvester custom geometry
> ...


Sounds like a well thought out build, congrats! Can't wait for the pictures.

One comment: I understand being a retrgrouch and all, but you really should consider going tubeless. It's worth the very slight inconvenience of the initial setup.


----------



## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

It is not worth saving a few ounces to deal with leaking goo, sorry.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

mike_kelly said:


> It is not worth saving a few ounces to deal with leaking goo, sorry.


It has nothing to do with saving weight. It has everything to do with a better ride and less flats. Not sure why you're talking about leaking goo, that's not an issue if done right.


----------



## TuTone T (Dec 12, 2012)

The Innova Transformer isn't a tubeless ready tire so he may well have leaking goo.
Use the chupa for easy tubeless


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

TuTone T said:


> The Innova Transformer isn't a tubeless ready tire so he may well have leaking goo.
> Use the chupa for easy tubeless


It seals without goo, and has never leaked a drop.


----------



## TuTone T (Dec 12, 2012)

Not on my rims


----------



## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

Is there a soapbox in the house?

This is what is wrong with the bike industry. All the engineers promise a minuscule improvement which yields no standardization and total chaos. (which is why I just wasted $600 on a fork and hubs despite my best research). I have been riding mountain bikes since before my first fat tire festival in Moab in 1991. I don't get flats, never been a problem. I guarantee I would never notice the difference between tube and tubeless. To me it is a solution without a problem. For me the problem is a mess of proprietary parts that are all incompatible with each other.

Now if you notice the difference that is fine, great but the problem for me is that I get dragged into your world kicking and screaming because nobody makes parts for my bikes anymore and I can't build my new Carver without wasting money because there is no specifications available from vendors.

Sorry you mentioned tubeless yet?


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

mike_kelly said:


> Is there a soapbox in the house?
> 
> This is what is wrong with the bike industry. All the engineers promise a minuscule improvement which yields no standardization and total chaos. (which is why I just wasted $600 on a fork and hubs despite my best research). I have been riding mountain bikes since before my first fat tire festival in Moab in 1991. I don't get flats, never been a problem. I guarantee I would never notice the difference between tube and tubeless. To me it is a solution without a problem. For me the problem is a mess of proprietary parts that are all incompatible with each other.
> 
> ...


I don't think it's that big of a deal, but yeah people forget that everyone's terrain, rides, style, needs etc are different.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

mike_kelly said:


> Is there a soapbox in the house?
> 
> This is what is wrong with the bike industry. All the engineers promise a minuscule improvement which yields no standardization and total chaos. (which is why I just wasted $600 on a fork and hubs despite my best research). I have been riding mountain bikes since before my first fat tire festival in Moab in 1991. I don't get flats, never been a problem. I guarantee I would never notice the difference between tube and tubeless. To me it is a solution without a problem. For me the problem is a mess of proprietary parts that are all incompatible with each other.
> 
> ...


Nope, not sorry at all. I've been riding mountain bikes for more than 25 years as well and have seen LOTS of new tech in that time. Some of it works and some doesn't. I'll give anything a try if I think it might work better than what came before. Usually I let it mature a little before trying. I tried suspension forks and full suspension for many years, and have decided I don't need or want them. Hydraulic disc brakes? Yup, probably the single best MTB development in the last 25 years, and they keep getting better. I'll never go back to V Brakes! Plus tires? Hell yes! And tubeless? for me, big YES. They had their issues in the early days and I waited many years before trying them, but at this point, I'm never going back to tubes. Are they perfect? nope. But, the current crop of tubeless ready rims and tires and so easy to set up if you pick the components wisely. I also think you will notice a difference in comfort and traction if you give it a chance. The great thing is nobody is forcing you to go tubeless. Tubes will be around forever, and they work just fine with modern rims and tires. I'd say that's the ultimate innovation, new technology that's better, but is still completely compatible with the old system.

Unfortunately, it can't always be like that. I agree there are plenty of new standards that don't really do much and just piss people off. But sometimes, new standards are required. You want to run that 3" tire in your old XC 29er frame? Sorry it just doesn't work. Things have to get wider to accommodate wider tires. I think they should have just gone to 157mm instead of 148mm, but whatever.


----------



## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

I respect your right to like the things you do. As tfinator notes everyones needs are different.
But I still see those things as minuscule improvements to me. I hate disc brakes. I have never had a set work better than my V-Brakes. I can't get the rotors adequately true and neither can either of the local bike shops. I have ridden almost every trail in Moab with V-Brakes. Never had a problem stopping. For me value is the key word and that usually means I would give up a small improvement for the benefit of economy of scale, simplicity, lower cost and reliability. 
My wife got a set of 29er wheels with her used Fat bike, great. But they were tubeless and they would not hold air. So in went the tubes. Now they hold air. 

The bottom line is I own a lot of bikes and it bums me out when I can't get a spare part to keep them running for the simple reason that somebody decided 4 arm cranks were better than 5 arm cranks.

Cheers


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

You _obviously_ do not ride anywhere there are prickle bushes or other thorny vegetation? If I rode with tubes on a lot of our northern trail that are filled with thorns bushes that grow down on the ground I would be stopping to fix a_ flat every few meters. I was the only guy running tubeless really in our group _(most hadn't been riding MTB long) and they had had no issues with tubes either, until we ventured onto those trails, remember the first ride, 7 flats and when the ride was finished I pulled about 6 thorns from my tyres, never had an issue or had to stop to fix a flat. All in the group moved to tubeless after that and it's pretty much a requirement if you ride with us for that reason.

Pic attached showing the thorns we encounter, that's a quarter next to it for size, _i.e._ the thing was about an inch long, rode with it in that tyre for I have no clue how long with only needing to pump it up once per week if I wasn't riding during the week and letting the sealant move about.


mike_kelly said:


> Is there a soapbox in the house?
> This is what is wrong with the bike industry. All the engineers promise a minuscule improvement which yields no standardization and total chaos. (which is why I just wasted $600 on a fork and hubs despite my best research). I have been riding mountain bikes since before my first fat tire festival in Moab in 1991.* I don't get flats, never been a problem.*_ I guarantee I would never notice the difference between tube and tubeless. *To me it is a solution without a problem*_. For me the problem is a mess of proprietary parts that are all incompatible with each other.
> Sorry you mentioned tubeless yet?


----------



## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

Nope never had a puncture due to a thorn.


----------



## TuTone T (Dec 12, 2012)

You (maybe not you Mike but other people reading this) can also try it with no sealant. The Chupacabra on my hugos works with no sealant
I ran them that way until I decided I wanted the flat protection. less rolling resistance.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

I don't mean to harp on this stuff, but have you tried modern tubeless tires/rims and disk brakes? They work sooo much better than the old stuff. Really set and forget. With the brakes, it's not about ultimate stopping power, it's about feel and modulation. And no maintenance.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

bikeny said:


> I don't mean to harp on this stuff, but have you tried modern tubeless tires/rims and disk brakes? They work sooo much better than the old stuff. Really set and forget. With the brakes, it's not about ultimate stopping power, it's about feel and modulation. And no maintenance.


Total agreement with the above. 
Old stuff works, but I like the new stuff sooo much better. And that is for its function and reliability not its new-ness.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

As to my Gnarvester....
I found the chain angle a bit steep in the biggest (climbing) gear. Running Turbine cranks and AB oval 30t ring (was bad with round ring too). I swapped the 2.5mm bb spacer to the ND side and find it much better - quieter and smoother - in low gears. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

reamer41 said:


> As to my Gnarvester....
> I found the chain angle a bit steep in the biggest (climbing) gear. Running Turbine cranks and AB oval 30t ring (was bad with round ring too). I swapped the 2.5mm bb spacer to the ND side and find it much better - quieter and smoother - in low gears.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


As long as you don't have any chain/tire rub issues, I think that's a good idea.


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

And moving that spacer is so dang easy with that BSA BB! Say why did everyone switch to PF again?!? 

Lol to the above 4v 5 crank arm thing. They went from 5 to 4 because if they didn't then we'd never get to go back to 5.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

No chain-tire rub. But in thick mud would be a problem. But thick mud is something I avoid. 

As to the threaded BB -- no doubt. Thankfully Santa Cruz and Carver have stayed with threaded. I've never had to deal with PF. Yet. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

After decades of never having a MTB fit me properly this is a breath of fresh air.

Got the Industry Nine hubs and laced them up last night. The Magnum has enough room, with the same Innova Transformers that were touching the arch with the Fox Factory 32, to put my hand under the 
arch.

The "Lightning Snake" is companion to the Thunderbird in west coast First Nations stories. The lightning snake strikes and the thunderbird then swoops down to grab the prey.


----------



## A1an (Jun 3, 2007)

^Nice build!


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I finally got a dropper for my Gnarvester and it's awesome!

I've got a Fall Line from 9Point8. Great post. I've got one in my Tallboy LT. 

Anyway, I routed the cable internally. The cable has to stick out the top of the seat tube a few inches to set things up. In trying to pull the cable housing the other way (towards the handlebar)it hung up and something, somewhere, inside the frame caught and cut the cable housing. 

Any thoughts on what part of the internal routing is catching and hacking the outer cable. Any thoughts on how to smith out the routing so it doesn't hack the cable housing?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

Got my first bikepacking bag from Greg at Rockgeist. Found some "snake skin" vinyl fabric on Ebay and he is using it to trim the bags.


----------



## OhioPT (Jul 14, 2012)

Can someone with an alloy XL measure the front-center for me, noting what fork model and travel you are using? Something doesn't look right on Carver's geometry chart. The 21" has a 1" longer ETT than the 19", with the same STA and HTA, yet the wheelbase is only 7mm longer?!?


----------



## S.O.B. (Mar 17, 2008)

mike_kelly said:


> After decades of never having a MTB fit me properly this is a breath of fresh air.


Pretty damn nice to have your first bike that fits you properly end up as the work of art that your Gnarvester has become.


----------



## Pick (Feb 12, 2012)

OhioPT said:


> Can someone with an alloy XL measure the front-center for me, noting what fork model and travel you are using? Something doesn't look right on Carver's geometry chart. The 21" has a 1" longer ETT than the 19", with the same STA and HTA, yet the wheelbase is only 7mm longer?!?


OhioPT,
I have a 21" (XL) Aluminum Gnarvester with a Rockshox Reba RL fork; it is the 27.5+/29 model. It has not been modified and retains the stock 120mm travel. 
I measured my front-center at 28.5"/724mm; from center of the fork axle to the center of the bottom bracket.
I bought my gnarvester without a test ride so I couldn't compare the XL ride to a L but I will say that I was accidentally shipped a L. I considered keeping it but after seeing the two, I am glad I went with the XL. The L would have felt a bit cramped; the difference was pretty noticeable in just holding the frame.

Here's my new build post with specs from a few months ago:http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-p...-carver-gnarvester-854958-6.html#post12727493

Let me know if you have any more questions...


----------



## OhioPT (Jul 14, 2012)

Pick, thanks so much for the info! That's very helpful. So it does look like the geo chart is wrong for the XL. I'm not sure what length fork they used when making the chart, but even if it was with a rigid 480mm a-c, the wheelbase even with the sliding drop outs fully forward should still be somewhere around 1150mm (based on your F-C with the 120mm boost Reba, which I'm guessing is ~530mm unsagged).

Does that boost Reba fit 29+ tires, and if so, what tires and what rim are you using?

Oh, and can you measure the BB height for me (and which tires you are currently using)?


----------



## Pick (Feb 12, 2012)

OhioPT said:


> Does that boost Reba fit 29+ tires, and if so, what tires and what rim are you using?


It does fit my 29+ set-up. I have about 4-5mm from the center of the tread to the fork arch, closer to 6-7mm on the sides. It is a bit tight but I've never had any rubs. I went with that fork based on a recommendation from Waltworks on the 29+ board. It was a great suspension fork for the cost. I'm used to Fox forks so it feels a bit firmer to me but I really like it.



OhioPT said:


> Oh, and can you measure the BB height for me (and which tires you are currently using)?


My BB is right at 13.5"

I went with the Sun Ringle Duroc 40 rims based on a recommendation from Mikesee on the 29+ board. I had also heard good things about the Chronicles so those are the tires I chose. They went tubeless so easily. I'm 215 in gear & run about 14psi. Any more is very 'bouncy' in the rear and any less feels like they could roll over on a hard turn. I'm sure I could get away with a couple less psi but I've been happy there.

My whole spec list theme was 'bang for the buck'. I tried to make quality selections but keep a reasonable budget and I've been happy with it. If I was a higher-level rider, I'm sure I would want to make some changes but as a weekend warrior, it has been reliable & fun!


----------



## Pick (Feb 12, 2012)

OhioPT said:


> So it does look like the geo chart is wrong for the XL. I'm not sure what length fork they used when making the chart, but even if it was with a rigid 480mm a-c, the wheelbase even with the sliding drop outs fully forward should still be somewhere around 1150mm (based on your F-C with the 120mm boost Reba, which I'm guessing is ~530mm unsagged).


My wheelbase is 1178. I might have another mm, maybe two to move the sliding dropouts forward but I had trouble tightening them when in the 'all the way forward' position.


----------



## OhioPT (Jul 14, 2012)

Pick said:


> It does fit my 29+ set-up. I have about 4-5mm from the center of the tread to the fork arch, closer to 6-7mm on the sides. It is a bit tight but I've never had any rubs. I went with that fork based on a recommendation from Waltworks on the 29+ board. It was a great suspension fork for the cost. I'm used to Fox forks so it feels a bit firmer to me but I really like it.
> 
> My BB is right at 13.5"
> 
> ...


I like how you think! I'm the same. Glad to see the Reba clears the big rubber. In that thread I saw the A-C is 531mm for the 120 Reba.

BB sounds high. Carver's geometry chart shows a BB drop of 75mm. Assuming your wheel/tire diameter is 770mm, the BB drop on your bike is only 42mm (770mm/2 - 13.5"). Add in 30mm of fork sag (25% of 120mm travel), and the BB drop is still only ~52mm. What the hell is going on with that chart??


----------



## Pick (Feb 12, 2012)

Agree... something does look amiss. I measured my actual tire radius at just under 770 (~768.35) but your point is still valid. When I worked with Forrest on the frame purchase, he was very quick to answer my questions. Maybe a quick call/email to him can clear it up?? Regardless, it's fun bike if you think the geometry numbers will work for you!!

Contacts


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Pick said:


> Agree... something does look amiss. I measured my actual tire radius at just under 770 (~768.35) but your point is still valid. When I worked with Forrest on the frame purchase, he was very quick to answer my questions. Maybe a quick call/email to him can clear it up?? Regardless, it's fun bike if you think the geometry numbers will work for you!!
> 
> Contacts


 I didn't catch what tire you're using. I think the Reba will easily clear the smaller 29x3s, but i wonder if it will clear something like the innova transformer?


----------



## Pick (Feb 12, 2012)

I'm using Maxxis Chronicles. I'm not familiar with the Innova but if it is larger than the Chronicle, it may not work. I believe the Chronicle would be on the upper side of what would work...


----------



## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

Really enjoying my Carver. Greg at Rockgeist finished the Bikepacking bag set. First class quality.


----------



## colterday (Aug 3, 2014)

what size belt sprockets are being used on the Gnarvester ti?


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

colterday said:


> what size belt sprockets are being used on the Gnarvester ti?


I'm using a 30t ring and an 11-46 cassette.

I have a 28t for bikepacking or rides with lots of big climbs.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I pulled my 9point8 Fall Line today so I could put on the WolfTooth lever. 

I've confirmed my belief that the internal routing for a dropper post on this frame just plain sucks. The bend is too tight and the edges inside the frame are sharp and catch and gouge the cable housing. 

If I get to it again I Will Not run the cable internally down the downtube. 


Love the wolftooth lever!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## B-RAY (Jul 15, 2004)

Finally got my Ti '18 finshed up. This thing rocks, I ended up putting my Talas 36 130-160 on it. I also added a can creek angelset headset to it and made it 1 degree slacker. My gearing is 36x49 using a wolf tooth cog.


























Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Those bars though 





Juuuuust joking, hope you like it, let us know how it goes.


----------



## TuTone T (Dec 12, 2012)

Ha Ha I think their' for time trialing


----------



## B-RAY (Jul 15, 2004)

No Jones H-bars hahah

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk


----------



## TooSteep (Oct 6, 2012)

Hello:

I am picking up parts for an alu Gnarvester build. It is a large frame (19") and I am 6'0" with a 32" inseam. I'm trying to figure out what length seatpost I should order. Will a layback 350mm post be long enough, or do I need a 400mm post?

Thanks.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

TooSteep said:


> Hello:
> 
> I am picking up parts for an alu Gnarvester build. It is a large frame (19") and I am 6'0" with a 32" inseam. I'm trying to figure out what length seatpost I should order. Will a layback 350mm post be long enough, or do I need a 400mm post?
> 
> Thanks.


32" inseam is jeans size or bike-fit inseam?

Either way the 350 should be fine. I'm 6' 2" and wear 32" jeans and my 375mm Fall Line dropper is nearly fully inserted.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

TooSteep said:


> Hello:
> 
> I am picking up parts for an alu Gnarvester build. It is a large frame (19") and I am 6'0" with a 32" inseam. I'm trying to figure out what length seatpost I should order. Will a layback 350mm post be long enough, or do I need a 400mm post?
> 
> Thanks.


Easy enough to figure out. Measure the BB to top of the saddle distance on your current bike. Subtract the seattube length from that and see where you are at.


----------



## Jakeg1999 (Mar 23, 2017)

Time for a bump....So, I am just about to pull the trigger on a Ti Gnarvester 19" and before I do so, I am trying to narrow down a fork. I am thinking something between 120-140mm. My current bike is a Tallboy3 with a 130mm fork. I am curious as to what folks here are using and what they like/feedback. I also have a Shockwiz to help dial it in, and am wondering if anyone here has a fork they really like but doesn't work with the Shockwiz? There are a few nice forks out there that won't work with the Shockwiz and I am wondering if it would be worth trying one or just sticking to one that will work with the wiz. Thanks in advance!!!!


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

Jakeg1999 said:


> Time for a bump....So, I am just about to pull the trigger on a Ti Gnarvester 19" and before I do so, I am trying to narrow down a fork. I am thinking something between 120-140mm. My current bike is a Tallboy3 with a 130mm fork. I am curious as to what folks here are using and what they like/feedback. I also have a Shockwiz to help dial it in, and am wondering if anyone here has a fork they really like but doesn't work with the Shockwiz? There are a few nice forks out there that won't work with the Shockwiz and I am wondering if it would be worth trying one or just sticking to one that will work with the wiz. Thanks in advance!!!!


I'm using a 2012 Fox 34 140 on mine. I've installed several spacers to bring the travel down to 110mm to try and keep the A to C close to the recommended value.

Next time I do maintenance on the fork I may pull a spacer or two to see how it feels at 120 or 130.

I've never tried using a shockwiz. How do you like it?


----------



## Jakeg1999 (Mar 23, 2017)

The Shockwiz is pretty neat. It definitely helps me to learn more about fine tuning my suspension. I've decided to go with the Rockshox Yari 120mm 29+ with the option to extend the travel down the road. It will also work with the Shockwiz.


----------



## B-RAY (Jul 15, 2004)

Jakeg1999 said:


> Time for a bump....So, I am just about to pull the trigger on a Ti Gnarvester 19" and before I do so, I am trying to narrow down a fork. I am thinking something between 120-140mm. My current bike is a Tallboy3 with a 130mm fork. I am curious as to what folks here are using and what they like/feedback. I also have a Shockwiz to help dial it in, and am wondering if anyone here has a fork they really like but doesn't work with the Shockwiz? There are a few nice forks out there that won't work with the Shockwiz and I am wondering if it would be worth trying one or just sticking to one that will work with the wiz. Thanks in advance!!!!


Iam rocking at Talas 36 160-130 on my Ti 18inch and Iam loving it!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jakeg1999 (Mar 23, 2017)

That's awesome! Can I ask how tall you are? Trying to finalize the right size as I was off a bit thinking the 19" was right for me.


----------



## Jakeg1999 (Mar 23, 2017)

I'd love to hear what size folks are choosing for their height? I'm now torn between 17"-18". I'm 5'8.5-5'9". Being able to choose any inch size is great but making my decision tougher!


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

6' 2" on a 20. Fits great. I've got a 50mm stem and 780mm bars.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Jakeg1999 (Mar 23, 2017)

Thanks for sharing. I'm hoping to look at a 17" tomorrow.


----------



## B-RAY (Jul 15, 2004)

Jakeg1999 said:


> I'd love to hear what size folks are choosing for their height? I'm now torn between 17"-18". I'm 5'8.5-5'9". Being able to choose any inch size is great but making my decision tougher!


Iam ur same height, glad got the 18. Iam using a renthal 50mm stem with 10degree rise

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jakeg1999 (Mar 23, 2017)

I got a couple miles on a 17" today and I think it will work just fine. I plan to start with a 50mm stem and I can always go longer if need be. Forrest Carver also told me I could send the frame back and swap it for a different size if I didn't like the fit as long as I cover shipping! I like that service! Hoping to place my order in the next day or two.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I've been riding my Gnarvester with QR type dropouts and a bolt-on Chris King hub. Due to a broken derailleur hanger I recently switched to the sliding dropouts with the DT Swiss 12/142 TA. Hub is Chris King with one piece axle appropriate for the 142 TA.

Since the switch to the thru axle I've had problems with the TA unscrewing while riding.

I've also got a Santa Cruz Tallboy LT Carbon with the same TA and same hub - in over 5 years I've never had the axle on the SC loosen.

Do I just need to tighten the TA more on the Ti bike?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Jakeg1999 (Mar 23, 2017)

I’ve had mine which is a DT TA backout about a full half turn one time. I could feel my rear end getting loose. Since then I just torque it down pretty good with my hand with about 80% of my strength so that I can also take it off. I also line it up flush with my two large slide out bolts so that I can quickly look down and check to see if it’s moved during a ride. Needless to say it has yet to happen again in the 400+ miles since. I make it a habit to visually check all my Bike’s wheels this way before, once during, and after each ride. It’s as simple as looking down at them for a quick glance. I attribute the time mine did it to the bike being new and settling in and or I just didn’t tighten it enough.


----------



## jaga (Apr 24, 2016)

They fixed it in the newest version.


----------



## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

jaga said:


> They fixed it in the newest version.


Really, how so?


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

jaga said:


> They fixed it in the newest version.


Carver or Paragon?
What's the fix?


----------



## Pick (Feb 12, 2012)

Pick said:


> Tons of very cool Gnarvesters here; they have inspired my newest bike...
> 
> View attachment 1081583
> 
> ...


Love this bike but it has just been sitting... 215.9 miles since built. I generally ride my other bikes so I'm considering letting this go. Ground-up build. I will also consider parting this out if I get a commitment for the frame first. Let me know if you have any questions or want more details. I have since added an e-ten dropper with southpaw remote.

I will leave this here for a couple of days before posting to MTBR classifieds, Pinkbike, etc...


----------



## Pick (Feb 12, 2012)

Pick said:


> Love this bike but it has just been sitting... 215.9 miles since built. I generally ride my other bikes so I'm considering letting this go. Ground-up build. I will also consider parting this out if I get a commitment for the frame first. Let me know if you have any questions or want more details. I have since added an e-ten dropper with southpaw remote.
> 
> I will leave this here for a couple of days before posting to MTBR classifieds, Pinkbike, etc...


Well, a fellow plus biker bought everything except the frame. I have a Gnarvester AL frame in XL for sale. $400


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Can someone with an aluminum 19” (or TI) measure actual BB height with 29+ tires and 480 (or longer) length fork?

Edit- just saw Pick’s post about his 21” being 13.5” with his setup above.


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Those of you with SS Gnarvesters, does 32x20 fit with the sliders slammed forward?


----------



## A1an (Jun 3, 2007)

nitrousjunky said:


> Those of you with SS Gnarvesters, does 32x20 fit with the sliders slammed forward?


You may have to run a half link to get it to slam forward in the dropouts. 32x20 on mine is a little past half way in the slider on a newer chain.


----------



## joshhan (Apr 1, 2011)

nitrousjunky said:


> Those of you with SS Gnarvesters, does 32x20 fit with the sliders slammed forward?


Maybe if I removed one full link, it could?


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I took the Gnarvester for a nice winter ride yesterday. It was cold and snowing. The bike did just a fine job carrying me up 1600' and then slip-sliding the 7 mile descent. Great ride on a great bike.


----------

