# New mondraker foxy carbon 29



## bartmikel (Jun 17, 2014)

It has been presented today and it seems a very interesting model, all in one.
https://www.mondraker.com/es/es/foxy-carbon-29


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Whenever I see a bike designed with the shock in the line of fire from crap off the rear wheel I cry a little inside. That sad little fender isn't going to do much.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Yes, that iis a poor place for a shock. I like the geometry, but would not get one for that reason, plus they are expensive. At least there is room for a LARGE water bottle. Lucky for me that forward geometry caught on and I can get other bikes with similar geometry.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Short offset fork too...


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## bartmikel (Jun 17, 2014)

I have the Dune 2014, which is the enduro 160 of 27.5, and I have not had any problem with the position of the shock absorber, the mudguard makes its fusion very well


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## choan (May 6, 2016)

Mondraker is so under the radar.
The bike are not so much expensive compared to yeti or ibis.
to tick all the box. Look like an evolution of ripmo and orbea rallon.


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## ajohansson (Oct 29, 2017)

damn spaniards


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

Hopefully my 'R' with Fox 36 and DPX2 (an awesome shock - I already have one on my Mojo3) arrives this week. Ill be able to provide some feedback on feel and suspension. There is no info about about the rear suspensions AS or rate so hope its close the the Dune which is suitably progressive. If they are running a coil its likely to be progressive but Orbea offer the Rallon with a coil and its rather linear.... We will see ! PS: The geometry of these bikes is outstanding. Reason im buying is a test road the previous model Foxy in 27.5 and whilst its rear end was a little harsh you could throw the thing down and off anything and feel like a hero. So incredibly stable and safe to ride. Good bike for people like me who's ambitions generally exceed capabilities.


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

I have one in da house. 
Will look to provide some feedback in a week if anyone considering one.
This is the 'Race' (R).

Conditions here are dry, hard, dusty and cool-cold. OEM rubber are Minion DHR2 WT 2.4 F and Agressor 2.3R.

Have not weighed it but it feels about 14Kg out of the box.

This is a Medium.

Initial fit doesn't feel as enormous as the reach measurements suggest but the bike is seriously long. It doesn't fit on regular Thule roof racks that clamp to the downtube.

Very nicely pre-assembled. Only need to remove protection, install handlebar, install front brake rotor and wheel, install saddle and tune to provide initial settings.


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## jim c (Dec 5, 2014)

Very nice, a sweet looking bike indeed. Color me jealous.


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

I have one in da house. 
Will look to provide some feedback in a week if anyone considering one.


Initial impressions:

This bike is super easy to ride.

Im 175cm and reasonably average in arm and leg lengths. The medium fits perfectly.

The short top tube allows you to drop the bars so you can get a more trail/xc position on the bike if you want to - more on that later.

Initial pedalling with the suspension inactive - ie: smooth conditions- is super responsive. It looks to have very high anti squat in the early part of travel.

At close to 14kg the bike to me is very heavy but with its steep seat angle seems rather easy to accelerate quickly for that sort of weight 

So first trails I rode were local moderate tech trails. Traction on climbing is astonishing. Compared to a 2.8 clad mojo3 it would easily equal that traction with the 2.3 agressor. This isn’t a tyre thing, its the ultimate sensitivity of the rear end on bigger blocky steps and chunk when climbing. 

Initially the rear end feels firm and supported then easily reacts to larger movements maintaining grip. I ended up running around 1 more click rebound than recommend by Mondraker and set pressure for my weight exactly as per their chart - 155 psi.

Is it nimble and playful and poppy? No. This thing is a trail soaker ! 
Whilst super and suprisingly easy to move around in very tight stuff including climbs- no lofting of front wheel, no washing out - it still seems to place you perfectly in the bike so you don’t really need to muscle it around going up.

All good so far!

Going down and jumping: so easy and safe. Hit the local gap without even bothering to punch it and its stable and level on take off and landing. You hardly need to move at all. Point and shoot!

With its rather linear ( slightly progressive then regressive) rear end I thought it might bottom out easily. So far have not done that but can easily use all the travel. Perhaps the shock has been tuned with spacers to my weight- say 74kg.

With the smammer offset it feels a bit that it just wants to motor on straight. But with the wide bars and short stem it responds quickly if you wanna change that!

Negative:

Calves clip the swing arm/pivots. You need to get used to that. Bit irritating.

Muck in suspension? Dunno. Its dry here and no issues so far

Bloody heavy. Wheels getting swapped and a few other things. Oem kit otherwise is great.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Really dig this machine and would like to spend some time on one.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Professed said:


> I have one in da house.
> Will look to provide some feedback in a week if anyone considering one.
> 
> Initial impressions:
> ...


So the Foxy 29er has a regressive LR?

I like the idea of this bike with the coil option, but the rear suspension leverage ratio needs to be progressive to work well with a coil imo.

Also tell me about the calves hitting?

Please advise.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

Hi Suns, The XR comes with a Coil as OEM but I can't see why a rider would want one. With the DPX2 Mondraker look to have tuned it so that it doesnt blow through the travel (given the rear linkage is progressive-regressive). I havnt had the chance to pull the shock down and check if any spacers have been used but probably won't bother.

Its hard to share the feel of a suspension in writing but I have ridden a coil on my Bronson for a while and that sort of feel is well replicated by the DPX2 on this bike. The Bronson has a bit of a soft wollow in its rear, this bike has nothing of that. The suspension is very reactive to larger blocks, steps and tech whilst still sitting up well and remaining nippy to pedal. I can't see the need for a coil in my few ride experiences to date - will get it out on some bigger stuff next weekend and comment. (note if you do bike park then my experiences won't be of any value to you as our gaps and jumps are no larger than about 1.5m at the most) 

To answer your calf question: The top pivot of the upper link just clips my calves. Im no popeye but i noticed it initially. After two rides and around 30km of experience I started to adjust and didnt notice it as much.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Thanks Professed!

How did you determine the LR? Could you just tell as soon as you rode it? Did you read it somewhere?

I'm drawn to the coil shock, and the color of that model, but I want a bike with no compromises. 

Thanks again. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Does the bike comfortably fit a 2.5 Aggressor in the rear?

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Suns_PSD said:


> Thanks Professed!
> 
> How did you determine the LR? Could you just tell as soon as you rode it? Did you read it somewhere?
> 
> ...


Here: Linkage Design: Mondraker

And yes, this would be a terrible leverage curve for a coil shock.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

2.6 to 2.3 to 2.6... if you say such a small curve is bad for coil, I'd question if you think that coil for forks is even worse. The Foxy 29's curve will enhance midstroke support, keeping the bike riding high and firm where you are likely pedaling. The rubber bumper isn't modeled into the forces chart, but that thing is pretty hard to compress (doing well to prevent absolutely full travel usage), giving coils significant end-stroke ramp that's comparable to an air shock.

I wouldn't judge this as "terrible" for a coil. I'd just predict that it allows them to design the frame with extra low static BB, and give a rider a sense of consistent predictability. 29ers cover ground efficiently, and a stiff spring feels less draggy when accelerating, compared to a typical hammock curve from a progressive setup (hammock curve = wallow/plushness). If you tune the progressive setups to use full travel, you tend to run a lot of sag and blow through travel, relying on the wall of the ramp-up; when you've sagged to 35-40%, 70% is your midstroke which is about when the wall starts. This bike's support starts fairly immediately and, with proper spring rate tuned to bottom out, I wouldn't be surprised if you had 25% sag. I question the point of deep sag--if you don't ride in a manner where you demand a lot of "negative" travel, what is that 35-40% of travel used for, if it's not wasted? I imagine you don't want suspension to extend deeply into holes, preferring to skip along the tops.

I find linear to be fast and progressive to be plush and poppy. For such a long big-wheeled bike, fast sounds like the name of the game. The amount of travel by itself offers plushness, and a firm spring setup makes it accelerate more responsively. Switch to air if you need tuning to handle big hits. Might be better off looking for a short travel compact wheelbase bike with small wheels if you want playful, poppy, but relatively plush (e.g. old Rocky Mtn Thunderbolt BC). In other words, this is more low flying enduro race bike (e.g. Yeti SB) than a jump-boosting FR/bike park bike (e.g. SC Nomad).


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

All good info, but I'm not certain I have the knowledge or skill to make sense of it all.

What I want is the best bike for tons of darn rough natural trails, plus significant drops thrown in (I do 6' ers to flat now, but am progressing steadily). Also needs to work very well at the bike park once a year or so.

It's hard to top the Yeti 5.5 I'm on now. I'm drawn to the Mondraker for several reasons: coil shock from the factory, forward geometry giving me the long reach I crave, aesthetically pleasing and the paint scheme on the XR rocks, and very unique around here.

But if the bike doesn't actually work better and result in me climbing more efficiently, descending chunkier and steeper lines, feeling more confident and capable and even fresh all around, then I don't want to change bikes. I want real improvement. Not to just buy a bike just cause.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Also, I've read a fair bit of Antonio's stuff, and I think it's awesome that he provides it. 

But when I first encountered it I guess I thought that one could just choose the best suspension design and be done with it, but it's much more complex than that and to top it off, he use to really knock linear leverage ratios like my SB5.5, when in fact these designs are some of the fastest around.

Furthermore Avalanche mentioned to me once that the conclusions are often incorrect as the manufacturers commonly use doctored photos for press releases making the pivot points inaccurate enough to effect results.

So I enjoy looking at them, but I'm not sure I can draw any conclusions from it.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

This would be a side-grade, mainly for reach, water bottle in front triangle, and other creature comforts. The Yeti SB55 is already highly optimized for natural trails, efficiently climbing and riding DH fast. Make the Yeti more linear to further optimize it, at cost of big air capability. You can do a coil on a Yeti as much as this can do coil. Drops, especially to flat, have their landings stuck better on linear suspension, since progressive setups threaten to buck you. I'll just add that longer chainstays pushes the bike towards the natural trails end of the spectrum even further, which is a plus for the Yeti (well, not much in the SB55's case, as it's 437 vs the Foxy 29's 435).


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

ninjichor - you nailed it with your description.

Just because YT/Specialized run progressive rear ends doesnt mean its the solution to all our riding requirements.

Yeti have successfully used a very linear system for many years on their SB range and noticeably have only used air shocks as they are so well suited to such systems. 

I think Mondraker have tuned the rear end really well for the intended use - technical trail and capable descending on rough terrain. I don't think this bike is designed for bike park but can't see why you couldnt use it for that purpose. 

I don't have much to compare it to but my much loved mojo3 with DPX2 is (according to the charts) slightly more progressive at the end of stroke but I blow through that shock very easily. No sign of that at all with the Mondy. 

I have only ridden and SB5 and this is not the same. The geometry very much directs how this bike feels. Its just increadibly stable

i meant to say earlier that you can set the bike up almost XC so you get the most out of climbing as when you descend it take care of everything. I found myself bombing through steps and junk that usually has me out hanging off the back but this time with the dropper fully up and simply sitting central in the bike. so easy !

I have yet to try anyting but OEM tyres - the 2.3 Agressor has plenty of clearance. I think the 2.5 should be OK but can't confirm at this stage without testing. I have a 2.5 DHF WT ( my all time favorite ) on its way....


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

ninjichor said:


> I wouldn't judge this as "terrible" for a coil. I'd just predict that it allows them to design the frame with extra low static BB, and give a rider a sense of consistent predictability. 29ers cover ground efficiently, and a stiff spring feels less draggy when accelerating, compared to a typical hammock curve from a progressive setup (hammock curve = wallow/plushness). If you tune the progressive setups to use full travel, you tend to run a lot of sag and blow through travel, relying on the wall of the ramp-up; when you've sagged to 35-40%, 70% is your midstroke which is about when the wall starts. This bike's support starts fairly immediately and, with proper spring rate tuned to bottom out, I wouldn't be surprised if you had 25% sag. I question the point of deep sag--if you don't ride in a manner where you demand a lot of "negative" travel, what is that 35-40% of travel used for, if it's not wasted? I imagine you don't want suspension to extend deeply into holes, preferring to skip along the tops.


It's a matter of safety. With progressiveness on the biggest hits you'll slowly bang into the end of the shock/hardware vs. with no progressiveness you will slam into it and tear metal in a catastrophic failure. This Foxy goes slightly progressive, then it goes digressive through the travel. It'll kinda work with an air shock, but a coil shock? Yes, that's a terrible leverage curve. You are acting as if the entire curve has to be all whacked out like crazy progressive over the whole stroke going into infinity. It doesn't, I've ridden those overly-progressive bikes and they get ultra-harsh deep into the travel and of course you never really use all the travel unless you set it to sag at 50% or more, either way it usually works like crap, but the point is you don't have to make those kinds of sacrifices these days. You don't have to buy a Foxy, there are actually bikes out there with well designed leverage curves. This does not appear to be one of them. Figuring out the leverage curves is not rocket science and Antonio has made some pretty reasonable arguments on how he comes up with them. Could some slight differences throw off the kinematics? Sure, but Antonio said he screens for it and only works with what appears to be the actual end product in enough resolution. I don't buy that all these manufacturers are photo-shopping all of their bikes, I do think that it may not provide enough resolution for shock tuning like Craig at Avalanche does and I know he contracts someone to do this work for the bikes he tunes, plus, he's running a business and has to bet the reputation on it.


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

You will know of Cesar Rojo from Unno. As we know he started out as the engineer behind most of what Mondraker does today and he continues to use a progressive-regressive leverage curve on his bikes. 

I was rather concerned seeing the leverage curve but given I had the bike the day Antonio released it I just ignored it and took the things out for some rides.

I have zero concerns about its performance and don't think any further progression is required for technical trail riding. Perhaps for bike park but then you would buy a YT Capra or such for that sort of riding I would expect...


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Professed said:


> I have zero concerns about its performance and don't think any further progression is required for technical trail riding. Perhaps for bike park but then you would buy a YT Capra or such for that sort of riding I would expect...


You wouldn't take a 6" enduro bike to the park? Why not? That's usually around the cutoff where that kind of bike tends to work really well, vs. people bringing XC bikes and the sort.

IME, there is no "magic", everything happens for a reason. Leverage curves and suspension kinematics can be extrapolated. It's not some big mystery or conspiracy as it seemed to be 15 years ago. There are a lot of companies that steadfastily cling to outdated ideas and designs, like Specialized, but that doesn't mean that you can't see these for what they are if you are a discerning consumer.


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

Jayem said:


> You wouldn't take a 6" enduro bike to the park? Why not? That's usually around the cutoff where that kind of bike tends to work really well, vs. people bringing XC bikes and the sort.
> 
> Agree with you regarding no magic 100%. If you are the XSquare One engineer or salesman than it most certainly is!
> 
> ...


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

Not having ridden a Yeti 5.5 I can’t comment exactly but looking at it from data at hand I wouldn’t change bikes. The SB5.5 can be tuned to be a seriously capable bike.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

Stick to the fundamental concepts, rather than trying to reason through "appeal to authority" and anecdote.

What kind of terrain do you ride? How do you want to ride it? What kind of bike and rider? These are the fundamental questions which you can design for. You can be better prepared for getting specific results, if you aim for them. Safety through well-executed handling of "the 95%", rather than comforting your fears and insecurities, such as feeling tired or sweat in your eyes and a desire for the suspension to save you.

A progressive bike sagged to 50% might be the right bike for a certain rider and terrain. The same exact bike with a different spring rate (sagged to 25%) might be the right setup for another certain rider and terrain. There's only so much you can predict from the bike itself; judging it to be terrible is taking generalizations a bit far.

On a bike, sag is considered to be "negative travel". Essentially, it allows the wheel to follow the terrain through deep gaps. This is vital for vehicles like trophy trucks, since they're continuing to accelerate and need the wheel to be on the ground, rather than still in the air. On a bike, you can "trade" negative travel for more positive travel. You can make this compromise *if* you plan on just straight lining through deep chunder and expecting the traction to only happen when your tires are touching the tops. Really now, 50% sag? What's left of the 150mm of rear travel after that. A small fraction of that half, if you consider that the plush zone only goes so far before you hit that supportive wall of ramp up. I'd argue that linear is super easy to ride, while you have to be on your game on the progressive setup, since it'll buck you if you ride "dead sailor". On XC bikes, people set 20-25% sag, so they're still getting up to 75-80mm travel on their 100mm bike. If you're running 40% sag on a 150mm bike, you have 90mm travel left, but that 60mm used for negative travel plays into how squishy the pedal bob is compared to the XC bike's 20-25mm. A 150mm bike sagged to 25% has 112.5mm travel left.

In Antonio's analysis, the forces curve is as close to an end product simulation you can get, if only he modeled the springs accurately. Looks like he used an EVOL air can in this model, rather than coil. Coil would've had a higher bottom out rate if sagged similarly, believe it or not.









Antonio tunes the curves to match according to sag. How many people tune their shocks over time is to tweak it for full travel use, sag % be damned (e.g. sag used only as a starting guideline). If you aligned a spring rates side by side, based on tuning to use full travel, you'd see just how much more mid-stroke support this bike has over progressive setups. On top of that, you won't have to run low rebound damping (vs being critically damped) to prevent packing up with the linear suspension.


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

Yeah good appraisal. The engineers certainly look to know what they are doing.

Good to see an alternate approach to the current ‘make it super progressive’ approach by many. 

Looking forward to pushing the bike harder on tougher terrain this weekend to see how this applies itself.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

Super progressive bikes are what the cool kids ride, literally. When I ride a progressive bike, I look for creative ways to utilize the energy it kicks back out from fast rebound (pop). From simply kicking it out to the side, to getting more airborne, it gives me extra opportunity to have fun. Worry less about PRs and more about most smiles per miles. It's not inefficient, if you judge by how it pedals on the pavement, but since it seems to want to leave the ground more often and has geo to make getting sideways easy (e.g. short chainstays), it's at a disadvantage in terms of PR-setting "efficiency". I crashed very often on them; the act of crashing often made me more efficient at brushing off falls as if nothing happened. Still, it's a hoot.

People can say that they're not like that, maybe saying they're too old. I think they're selling themselves short. I find that I change style according to the bike I ride. The same route will be a uniquely different experience, if I ride a diff bike on it. It's like girls putting on different outfits: one set might make em feel more elegant, smooth, precise, and flowing. One might make em more explosive, high tempo, and likely to take the lead (or eagerly chasing/following an experienced leader). Another set might make em more creative, more adventurous, more avante garde, taking in the environment and letting it inspire them. Plenty of others... rather not try and judge any as being superior/inferior.

One you ride loose and wild, another you ride with a calculated precision. The latter sounds more like Greg Minnaar. Might seem boring to watch, compared to other riders, but very respectable still. I would like to see something with longer chainstays like the Pole Machine, for this style of riding, personally.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

My personal experience with my SB5.5 having a linear LR combined with an air shock, is that it is essentially ideal. 

However part of my interest in the Foxy 29er is the coil shock (not too mention the nice color scheme that comes in that model. 

Combining a linear ratio, with a linear coil shock, is a bad mismatch. 

The 5.5 replacement, the SB150 is supposed to drop within weeks, so i'm going to wait for that. I feel that yeti won't place the wrong product on the bike, for street cred, if it isn't right for the application. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

I'm curious what all these "super progressive bikes" are. Seems you are lumping everything else into one category to rationalize your purchase.


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## xavierp (Jan 18, 2011)

I'm going to be demo one of these at the end of August, can't wait. 

I'm hesitating between this, transition sentinel and a GG Smash for my next bike. I know the GGs very well, and demoed the Sentinel in Sedona, and loved it. The comparison with the foxy should be interesting.


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

I have a mate who recently bought a sentinel. Hoping to review them back to back soon. I expect both to be rather similar in feel and performance.


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

But Foxy is soooo much sexier!!!


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## xavierp (Jan 18, 2011)

Professed said:


> I have a mate who recently bought a sentinel. Hoping to review them back to back soon. I expect both to be rather similar in feel and performance.


I don't know about that. I rode the Sentinel, and it felt very plush and planted. I expect the Foxy to ride higher in his travel and have a better overall dynamic. The Sentinel may be more of a mini-DH.

What are your thoughts on the cable routing under the BB? I'm mildly OCD when it comes to bikes, that may drive me crazy.


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

Maybe - I havn't ridden the Sentinel yet so will have to see ! 

The foxy does generally ride 'high' - as earlier comments by other have clarified you don't need to run much sag and the initial progressiveness supports the rear end really well. Correctly set up though it is not overly firm nor harsh. I have seen reports of the 27.5" 2108 being 'overly firm'. Matter of taste too I guess.

Because of that later regression it does becomes a rock munching monster. It moves through the full range of travel easily. I have only ridden trail bikes to date so to me this bike is on another level in terms of absorbtion capability.

The cable routing isn't an issue so far but there isn't any mud around here. Leaves and sticks occasionally get caught i the rear shock shroud and i don't clip my calves on the pivots anymore.

still happy with it so far !


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

99% sure I'm ordering a Mondraker frame set in November when they are available.

They will have 3 framesets available (I spoke to the importer):

1) Yellow one with the DPX2.
2) Blue one with the X2 Coil.
3) Black one with the Monarch.

If anyone orders the black one, and would like to swap out their Monarch for the coil shock I'll be getting on the blue one, let's talk.

I spoke to Qarv Imports a lot, the guy I spoke to is a Pro Enduro racer and rides a Mondraker. I told him the charts say the bike is real linear/ regressive and it needs an air shock and his response was he smashes his Mondrakers's very hard, with coil shocks, and it's real hard to get them to bottom. So I don't know.

That said, I prefer the pedaling platform of the air shocks (and the lower weight) for All Mountain riding so that's what I'd like on mine.

Professed, I'd appreciate any input you could provide on your Foxy 29.


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## xavierp (Jan 18, 2011)

Hmm, you probably talked to Austen then  He's a ripper indeed. He's a whole touch faster than me, but I got to bottom it out while hucking to flat at high speeds, a handful of times, on the air DPX2. I just demoed the RR this weekend, it's an incredibly fast bike. It wasn't a hard bottom out, but I did use all the travel.

The bike stays very high in its travel though, on more regular circumstances.

Where are you ordering from? My bike shop told me they were readily available? But maybe he got confused?


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

In my experience, coils tend to be extremely hard to bottom out, compared to air. When I last did a calculation, for 30% sag (shock rate curve: regressive to ~25%, then progressive), I later convinced myself that I was oversprung based on riding experience. 

The bottom out bumper might be a bit firm for my weight perhaps. I was recommended the current spring rate by numerous susp experts, but can reach similar sag with a -50 lb lighter spring with a few turns of preload. I can definitely feel the bottom out bumper with the lighter spring, but never really felt it actually come to a mechanical stop like it does with air. Upping or decreasing preload didn't affect bottom out, but made the initial stroke saggy and pedal strike prone if I didn't preload.

I ended up just riding it with the recommended spring, saying that coils are like singlespeeds, that you always got the wrong spring rate, and thinking back to how some brands are offering in-between spring rates and how marginal of an improvement they'd be. I got used to how it ran. The other setup sounded good on paper, with firmer early stroke for pedaling efficiency and plush midstroke, but I prefer the more consistent quality travel of the firmer spring. I might try a -25 lb spring if the shock had a hydraulic bottom out and if the spring didn't cost as much as a Ti one, as the sudden spring rate increase of the bumper was disturbing.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

On Edit: Yes, it was Austen.

He said he had only bottomed his personal 27.5 Mondraker with a coil 2x, and he told me that he slams things really hard. But that he was also 150#s whereas I weigh 180.

If I had my choice, I'd have the Monarch air shock. As it sits, I'll likely have the coil and will see what I think, keep it as a spare, use it for Angel Fire, etc...

It appears my only option for ordering the frame is a local Mondraker dealer, frankly I'm just not use to paying retail, for anything. They are a great shop, but the frame would cost me after taxes about $1K more than a new SB130, for instance. I'm still struggling with that.

PS. Pretty sure I'm ordering this frameset this week. I'm struggling on choosing the yellow with the air shock, or the blue with the coil. After staring at them for half the day I went from a 'no way' on the yellow to, 'pretty sure I'd do that!'


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

ninjichor said:


> In my experience, coils tend to be extremely hard to bottom out, compared to air. When I last did a calculation, for 30% sag (shock rate curve: regressive to ~25%, then progressive), I later convinced myself that I was oversprung based on riding experience.
> 
> The bottom out bumper might be a bit firm for my weight perhaps. I was recommended the current spring rate by numerous susp experts, but can reach similar sag with a -50 lb lighter spring with a few turns of preload. I can definitely feel the bottom out bumper with the lighter spring, but never really felt it actually come to a mechanical stop like it does with air. Upping or decreasing preload didn't affect bottom out, but made the initial stroke saggy and pedal strike prone if I didn't preload.
> 
> I ended up just riding it with the recommended spring, saying that coils are like singlespeeds, that you always got the wrong spring rate, and thinking back to how some brands are offering in-between spring rates and how marginal of an improvement they'd be. I got used to how it ran. The other setup sounded good on paper, with firmer early stroke for pedaling efficiency and plush midstroke, but I prefer the more consistent quality travel of the firmer spring. I might try a -25 lb spring if the shock had a hydraulic bottom out and if the spring didn't cost as much as a Ti one, as the sudden spring rate increase of the bumper was disturbing.


I'm not certain about your calculations, but coil shocks have a linear spring rate. Meaning they don't get harder to compress as they get lower, just add another 300# for another inch.

Where-as an air spring is progressive and they get harder and harder as the air volume decreases. Maybe it takes 150# for the first inch, but 400# for the 3rd inch.

When you have a ratio that appears to be linear (although Qarv said the Montrakers are actually quite Progressive, not the first time I've seen experts disagree with Antonio's blog) you don't get the soft on the top compliance combined with a ton of frame/ spine protecting bottom out resistance.

Old dirt bikes (pre 1981) did not have linkages to make them progressive, and they sucked with their coil shocks. You could either make the suspension work well over the chatter (soft), or you could make them work well for the big jumps (hard), but never both, until they added Pro-Link/ Full Floater/ etc... to give the needed progressiveness.

Same reason that KTM's PDS, non-linkage rear suspension worked so poorly for years.
Now if KTM threw an air shock on the back they could go back to PDS and save a LOT of weight on both the shock and the linkage.


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## xavierp (Jan 18, 2011)

Suns_PSD said:


> It appears my only option for ordering the frame is a local Mondraker dealer, frankly I'm just not use to paying retail, for anything. They are a great shop, but the frame would cost me after taxes about $1K more than a new SB130, for instance. I'm still struggling with that.


 Yep, I'm in the same boat. I Love the bike, but I can't really justify dropping that much money into a frame... Even if it rides amazingly well.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

So I'm buying a Foxy 29 and have decided that I'm happy with either the yellow or blue frame color, the price difference is not the factor. I want to choose the one with the best shock for rowdy trail riding and one bike park trip every other year. Heck we even have a lift going up an hour from my house that I plan to visit many times per year.

The DPX2 LV Evol vs. the DHX2 coil.

Which one are you guys running on your Foxy 29 and what do you think about it? Which way would you go?

Thanks

Thanks!

On Edit, I'm going with the air shock. Read a million reviews and info and I just can't see a real advantage for me using the coil. Seems like a lot of downside. I wish the air shock offering was an X2, but oh well.


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## xavierp (Jan 18, 2011)

Yeah, i Was about to say. I rode it in White Ranch (close to Golden if you know the Front Range area) and Winter Park, not trying to go slow (the opposite actually). I didn't have any complaint about the rear shock, the DPX2. The suspension is dialed!
I matched all my PR's in White Ranch, after work (when I usually am terrible), and was a lot faster than my PRs on the park day. I usually ride a coil shock, so I don't see that as being too much of a factor . I ride both of these areas VERY often.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I now have a Foxy 29 XR frameset on order. It's scheduled to arrive in November. 

I will be selling the stock coil shock brand new when it arrives (I already bought a Superdeluxe RC3 for it) so for those that are coil curious, it'll be here. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Just placed my order for an R model. Can't wait for it to show up.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Professed said:


> Maybe - I havn't ridden the Sentinel yet so will have to see !
> 
> The foxy does generally ride 'high' - as earlier comments by other have clarified you don't need to run much sag and the initial progressiveness supports the rear end really well. Correctly set up though it is not overly firm nor harsh. I have seen reports of the 27.5" 2108 being 'overly firm'. Matter of taste too I guess.
> 
> ...


I've spoken to Austen at Qarv, the importers for Mondraker. Austen races the Pro Enduro class. He told me that the bike works beautifully at 35% sag and that's how it needs to be set up. I asked like 3x just for clarification and he was quite adamant.

FYI

PSI, I am not a fan of that cable routing.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

xavierp said:


> Yeah, i Was about to say. I rode it in White Ranch (close to Golden if you know the Front Range area) and Winter Park, not trying to go slow (the opposite actually). I didn't have any complaint about the rear shock, the DPX2. The suspension is dialed!
> I matched all my PR's in White Ranch, after work (when I usually am terrible), and was a lot faster than my PRs on the park day. I usually ride a coil shock, so I don't see that as being too much of a factor . I ride both of these areas VERY often.


That's a heck of an endorsement.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Do any of you Foxy 29 owners know if your shock mounts have roller bearing mounts in them?

I had great luck with this mod on my Yeti, and several of the reviews I have read on 2017 Mondraker's complain explicitly about the stiction in the rear shock but one mentioned this had been changed for 2018 and up.

Please advise.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Well done review here:

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/review-mondraker-foxy-carbon-xr-29.html#cid2063379


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

Just got done with a demo week with one of these in the RR big bird flavor. Was a nice bike, was pretty much a 1 trick pony for me though. Fast in a straight line. Other than that a pretty boring ride. Would make a amazing race bike, but as your only bike unless all you car about was speed at all times then it was pretty boring, like in the back seat on a ride boring. The rear tire clearance was too close for me as well. With a 2.3 aggressor it sat WAY too close for comfort to the little fender to keep suspension clean. A bigger 2.5 and a slight bit of mud and you would be in trouble quick. I live in colorado springs Colorado where we have quite a bit of decomposed granite ( AKA gravel) and the smaller tire was bringing little rocks around I could hear hit the cross brace. Over all a OK bike, I would own one for just a race bike, but at the MSRP of a Yeti which is already above 98% of the industry and only 1 local shop for support I would say I have to pass.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Thanks for the feedback. I think it's a love it or hate it kind of bike because it's at an extreme. 

Would love to hear your opinions on climbing and turning.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## xavierp (Jan 18, 2011)

hitechredneck said:


> Just got done with a demo week with one of these in the RR big bird flavor. Was a nice bike, was pretty much a 1 trick pony for me though. Fast in a straight line. Other than that a pretty boring ride. Would make a amazing race bike, but as your only bike unless all you car about was speed at all times then it was pretty boring, like in the back seat on a ride boring. The rear tire clearance was too close for me as well. With a 2.3 aggressor it sat WAY too close for comfort to the little fender to keep suspension clean. A bigger 2.5 and a slight bit of mud and you would be in trouble quick. I live in colorado springs Colorado where we have quite a bit of decomposed granite ( AKA gravel) and the smaller tire was bringing little rocks around I could hear hit the cross brace. Over all a OK bike, I would own one for just a race bike, but at the MSRP of a Yeti which is already above 98% of the industry and only 1 local shop for support I would say I have to pass.


I don't know my good man, I had quite a lot of fun to throw that bike sideways at Winter Park  Maybe it suits me. Not the MOST fun bike, I agree, especially compared to say, a Sentinel, but still OK given its length.

Ride soon?


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## artnshel (Jul 10, 2004)

I rode one in Vail at the Outlier demo yesterday and really liked it. I expected it to be too long and hard to turn. Instead it was about the best handling bike I've ridden. There was amazing stability that invited me to go faster because it was matched with superior cornering confidence. It completely railed tight corners and quick back and forth situations. You absolutely had to plan ahead for the tight corners but when you did it turned perfectly. I was really surprised but it worked great downhill for me. Unfortunately I didn't really do any climbing and I didn't love the rear suspension. It wasn't plush with a DPX2 and my body weight which is what they recommended. The rear tire clearance was also limited so I couldn't see running a 2.5. Now I just wish their pricing made more sense. The frame is more expensive than the most coveted brands when they are a fringe player at best.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Thanks for the review. Good data point. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## Tim Mailloux (Jun 18, 2007)

This is one of the sexiset full suspension frames I have ever seen.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Tim Mailloux said:


> This is one of the sexiset full suspension frames I have ever seen.


I'd be lying if I didn't say that the looks of the bike, were a factor for me.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

I've had the R version for about a week now and I've upgraded just about everything. It's amazing so far.









I'm curious to where others are setting their rear sag with air shocks. I hope to upgrade the shock down the road as well. The DPX2 Performance feels decent but I know it could be better.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> I've had the R version for about a week now and I've upgraded just about everything. It's amazing so far.
> 
> View attachment 1222041
> 
> ...


I'll have a brand new Foxy XR next week and will be selling the unused DHX2 coil shock. 
Any interest?

Qarv, the Mondraker distributor, told me the bike likes 35% sag. I'll still start with 30% myself.

Tell us more about the bike, and also what you don't like about the stock air shock.

PS. Nice cranks Bro!

Thx

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> I'll have a brand new Foxy XR next week and will be selling the unused DHX2 coil shock.
> Any interest?
> 
> Qarv, the Mondraker distributor, told me the bike likes 35% sag. I'll still start with 30% myself.
> ...


I'll bullet the finer points:

Downhill it is a rocket ship. Very stable but it's still maneuverable. It feels great in fast turns, even flat ones (no berm). The geometry feels spot on to me.

It climbs better than expected. No need to mess with compression switches. Just motor and it goes. I don't find the front wandering or lifting in an unacceptable way. It's no XC bike but it'll play uphill just fine.

Slow pedally trails with lots of tight turns become laborious. Pedaling is nice and efficient but the bike needs to be leaned for good corner traction. Again, a steep hta XC bike is better here but I'll deal with this compromise because it's so much fun everywhere else.

The shock isn't all that bad but I have the 36 modified with the Vorsprung Luftkappe and the Avalanche cartridge and it just blows away anything I've ever ridden. Others that have ridden it are left with their jaw on the floor. Because of this I'm seeking similar performance from the back end. In the stock form it's very, very good. I'm going to keep fiddling with sag and rebound to see if I can make it even better. I believe I'm running less than 30% sag now. If I can't get what I'm looking for out of the DPX2 I'll look for a Super Deluxe to get the Avalanche treatment as recommended by Craig from Avalanche.

The internal routing of the rear brake line sucks from a replacement or maintenance standpoint. It's only the chaistay that is tricky. The downtube routing is money. The cable and hose under the BB doesn't bother me, My Scott Genius has this and it was never an issue.

The shock position is nothing to worry about, the fender does a fine job of keeping it clean enough. My only complaint on the fender is that it likes to trap dry leaves which make noise. The bike is very quite so this is noticeable.

The chainstay protector does protect the chainstay well but it's loud AF. Like you're hitting the CS with a hammer loud. I slapped a large Lizard Skins neoprene wrap on there and it's silent now.

The rear tire clearance looks tight. Curious to hear what other will be able to fit. I really like the 2.3 Aggressor so I'll keep in on there for awhile.

The cranks are the best you can get, hands down. Very stiff and very light. More durable than carbon and Ti mutes some of the high frequency vibration. Price is the only downside.

I don't think I'm interested in the coil shock. If I did more pure DH or park riding maybe but the air feels pretty good.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> I'll bullet the finer points:
> 
> Downhill it is a rocket ship. Very stable but it's still maneuverable. It feels great in fast turns, even flat ones (no berm). The geometry feels spot on to me.
> 
> ...


That was a darn good review.

Hopefully the maneuverability in tight slow conditions does not bother me too much. I do tend to lean my bike a lot under most conditions so maybe that will help.

So you're saying the Ewing cranks you could actually feel a very real and positive difference in the flex?
I have nice X01 cranks but was considering buying the Ewings if they provide definitive improvements.

I won't own a bike that Craig @ Avy hasn't went through any longer so I feel ya. In fact he' s already done the suspension for my Foxy that I don't even have yet. However contrary to popular opinion, the coil shock option on this particular bike is well suited to chunder, roots, jagged trail conditions, and so on. It's not progressive enough for large drops or jumps. But it absolutely eats up rough trail conditions while maintaining mad traction and efficiency.

What size lizard skin wrap did you buy? I'll get one coming asap.

I'd be pretty annoyed if I can't fit a 2.4 tire on the rear of my Foxy comfortably.

- take care

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

I think a 2.4 will fit fine, that may be it though.

The eeWings do make a noticeable improvement. No BS at all. I love them more than just about anything I’ve ever purchased. They’re right up there with the fork mods. I’m coming off SixC and XO1s for reference. 

It’s the Large Lizard Skins wrap. It fits perfectly. 

I’m sure the coil provides great traction. I’m not sure I want to add that much weight though. If I were racing Enduro very seriously I would go for it but this is my do-it-all bike now so I’m watching the grams closely.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Check out the other Mondraker thread for more info. http://forums.mtbr.com/custom-builders-other-manufacturers/mondraker-1064499.html

I'm running my rear shock at about 30% sag. I weight 160ish kitted, and have 150 psi in the shock with 11 clicks of rebound. The shock likes to be run soft for best performance.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> The eeWings do make a noticeable improvement. No BS at all. I love them more than just about anything I've ever purchased. They're right up there with the fork mods. I'm coming off SixC and XO1s for reference.


Damn you! I just bought some ungodly overpriced Eewing cranks. Sheesh.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

Suns_PSD said:


> [...]So you're saying the Ewing cranks you could actually feel a very real and positive difference in the flex?
> I have nice X01 cranks but was considering buying the Ewings if they provide definitive improvements.
> 
> I won't own a bike that Craig @ Avy hasn't went through any longer so I feel ya. In fact he' s already done the suspension for my Foxy that I don't even have yet. However contrary to popular opinion, the coil shock option on this particular bike is well suited to chunder, roots, jagged trail conditions, and so on. It's not progressive enough for large drops or jumps. But it absolutely eats up rough trail conditions while maintaining mad traction and efficiency.[...]


A stiffer crank is more of a "feels" thing, a mental thing. When driving the bike feels more direct, the feedback encourages you to pedal more, as you feel more rewarded for the effort. It's quite promoted on the road side of things, though it doesn't prove to be any faster.

Whose opinion was contrary to the coil? That's how linear suspension works.

The take-away from what I've said: the firm mid-stroke + rubber bump stop accounts for more overall force absorption, compared to an air spring's softer mid-stroke and progressive end-stroke. The bottom-line was that coils are harder to bottom than expected.

I highlighted an issue/exception with coil: firmer mid-stroke can fool people into thinking it's oversprung. I suspect that people go for softer springs in response to this feeling/feedback. They will then suffer from lower total force absorption (easier to bottom), and need preload to help maintain ride height (adds notable harshness off the top), just to get a softer mid-stroke feel that they unwittingly desired due to familiarity or expectations.

I avoided saying that coil was progressive. I instead introduced fundamental concepts, like an additional rubber bump stop, hydraulic bottom out, and firm-midstroke, making coils jump/drop worthy. This may imply progressiveness, but I'd really not like to fight with the concrete biases people have with their oversimplified logic/rationale, where coil = linear (draws an illustration of coil's spring rate being a straight sloped line). If you put a complete coil shock in a "hand dyno" and compare, you'll see.

The differences between coil and air pretty much boil down to weight, cost, consistency (including effects on rebound tuning), mid-stroke support, and the countless other small things like seal drag, frame fitment, maintenance, etc.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

P.S. RockShox posted this illustration for their rear shocks, regarding coil vs air, which models in the effect of their rubber bumper on the spring rate curve:









The bumper on the X-Fusion Vector I have is ~11mm (0.43", measured with caliper) thick, which seems to match up with the illustration, with how it affects the last 0.5" of the stroke. Seems to be shaped to be fairly compliant for the first half of its compression. The 11-6 uses a bumper about 2x the size, which is tapered for a smoother transition to get that "bottomless" feel.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Good info. 

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> Damn you! I just bought some ungodly overpriced Eewing cranks. Sheesh.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


 LOL seriously? You won't be disappointed!

I just finished a trail ride with some moderately bumpy downhill sections using 35% sag and it's money. The bike feels absolutely amazing. Traction is insane. If I were going to do a ride with large drops and big jumps where I was concerned with a more poppy feel and less chance of bottom out I would probably choose to run 30 to 32% sag. Although, this ride had some moderately big hits and I'm showing about 5 mm of travel being unused.

*edited the spelling. Voice to text really butchered that one.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Good to know on the sag and yes on the cranks. They'll be here Monday, which is likely the same day the frame arrives.
1 year old set of 170mm GXP X01s for sale...

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

A 26oz water bottle fits with room to spare on the medium frame. That's nice!


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

Can anyone confirm what size volume spacer comes stock in the DPX2 on the Foxy 29?

What about X2 fitment?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Streetdoctor said:


> Can anyone confirm what size volume spacer comes stock in the DPX2 on the Foxy 29?
> 
> What about X2 fitment?


They make an X2 that fits the bike, but you'd want to send it to Avalanche and have it set up for this LR.
That's what I did but I used a Superdeluxe off of the '18 Spartan as it's a better shock. Craig installed 3 volume spacers as well as made valving adjustments to cope with the LR of the Foxy 29.
It's cool to read that you like the bike so much. The SB150 is gone correct?

Are you working with Golden Bike shop? Those guys are real fans of the Mondrakers.

Tomorrow I get my first demo on a Mondraker at a local trail, which seems pointless because my own Foxy 29 should arrive no later than this Thursday.

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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

Suns_PSD said:


> They make an X2 that fits the bike, but you'd want to send it to Avalanche and have it set up for this LR.
> That's what I did but I used a Superdeluxe off of the '18 Spartan as it's a better shock. Craig installed 3 volume spacers as well as made valving adjustments to cope with the LR of the Foxy 29.
> It's cool to read that you like the bike so much. The SB150 is gone correct?
> 
> ...


Ya man I really really dig it. First bike I've ridden that felt like it has the efficiency of the Yeti. I think I'll have a video thrown together later but in short I really liked it. Stable, and deceivingly fast. I KOM'ed the top of white ranch on it yesterday and set a couple top 10's on longhorn. I ended up having to run the back end so stiff (about 22% sag) it felt a little too firm (if there's really such a thing) in the initial/mid stroke and I still had a bottom out hard enough to drop the chain. I'm in the process of looking into tuning now. I spoke with Fox this morning and the bike comes stock with a 0.6 volume spacer which is the largest that can fit in that size DPX2. I didn't realize there was an X2 available so I'll have to look more into that. The stock DPX2 has a light compression tune and they recommended re-valving for a firm tune. I'm not sure what kind of compromises that will make, I'm going to make some phone calls later. If I'm reassured enough that a tune will keep me from bottoming out and not mess with the initial/mid stroke too much I'll be ordering one.

Does anyone have any photos of one with an X2? GBS told me they weren't an option due to clearance.


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## skinnybex (Aug 5, 2015)

Streetdoctor said:


> Ya man I really really dig it. First bike I've ridden that felt like it has the efficiency of the Yeti. I think I'll have a video thrown together later but in short I really liked it. Stable, and deceivingly fast. I KOM'ed the top of white ranch on it yesterday and set a couple top 10's on longhorn. I ended up having to run the back end so stiff (about 22% sag) it felt a little too firm (if there's really such a thing) in the initial/mid stroke and I still had a bottom out hard enough to drop the chain. I'm in the process of looking into tuning now. I spoke with Fox this morning and the bike comes stock with a 0.6 volume spacer which is the largest that can fit in that size DPX2. I didn't realize there was an X2 available so I'll have to look more into that. The stock DPX2 has a light compression tune and they recommended re-valving for a firm tune. I'm not sure what kind of compromises that will make, I'm going to make some phone calls later. If I'm reassured enough that a tune will keep me from bottoming out and not mess with the initial/mid stroke too much I'll be ordering one.
> 
> Does anyone have any photos of one with an X2? GBS told me they weren't an option due to clearance.


SD, I'm going to send you a contact for my friend that owns Silverfish in the UK. He deals with Mondraker and all the Enduro/DH guy's so he knows exactly what going on and what they're doing to combat the LR


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Hard to imagine the X2 won't clear, since the XR version arrives with the DHX2, which I think is just an X2 but instead of the air can for a spring it has a (larger) steel spring.

I know people not trying to sell me anything, that have said that the Foxy 29 climbs notably better than the SB130, while descending at least as well as the SB150.

Lord I hope my RC3 just bolts right up, not sure what I'll do if by chance it doesn't.


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

GearTech said:


> I've had the R version for about a week now and I've upgraded just about everything. It's amazing so far.
> 
> View attachment 1222041
> 
> ...


DUDE. That bike looks ridiculously sick! I gotta say though, if you're going to run THOSE cranks you need to at least upgrade your damper to the Grip2.  It also sounds like Fox can re-valve the DPX2 and add an LSC adjustment for around $100. Looking into whether or not that's a better option than putting a 2019 X2 on it now.

My plan is a similar build with polished hubs/spokes and possibly the same cranks all black/blue/polished.


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


skinnybex said:


> SD, I'm going to send you a contact for my friend that owns Silverfish in the UK. He deals with Mondraker and all the Enduro/DH guy's so he knows exactly what going on and what they're doing to combat the LR


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Was told that the X2 will fit by a dealer that contacted Mondraker on this exact question.


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

cheezwhip said:


> Was told that the X2 will fit by a dealer that contacted Mondraker on this exact question.


great thanks!


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Streetdoctor, I'm a 29er guy and it sounds like you are as well.

However it's worth noting that the Foxy 29 is positioned for the hard trail/ light enduro part of the spectrum. This is reflected in the higher BB height, as well the linear- regressive LR and shock choice on their premium version. Those suspension choices are designed to make trail chatter all but disappear, but it appears to be lacking in stock form for major obstacles. Honestly your description of bottoming on 1' drops is very concerning to me (It's probably not those little drops, but the repeated successive hits that bottomed it, which reflects a lot on the shock itself) cause I'll hit a couple of 6' to flat here and there and endless chunder and 1-2'ers. The reported traits of the Foxy 29 appear otherwise to be ideal for my usage.

But Mondraker does offer a 27.5" 'Super-enduro' bike that is positioned more as a Hard Enduro/ Light Downhill bike that utilizes a more Progressive rear suspension LR and I wonder if that platform might be better suited for a guy that does 30+ mph (wtf!!!)? Also the 27.5" wheel should not flex as readily.


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## skinnybex (Aug 5, 2015)

if the Foxy 29 doesn't work for Streetdoctor I'd highly suggest him trying to demo the Devinci Spartan 29 as I know it'll pedal well on sprints and it has a nice and progressive LR.

Split pivot is my favorite DW iteration. I think Colorado Cyclists does demos.

I know it may be a bit on the heavy side but I'm sure he could get it under 30 lbs.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

IMO the new Spartan 29 is way off on geometry. TT is at least 2" too short. Reach is at about .5-.75" too short.



It's not a bike I would consider as geo is just too old school.


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

Suns_PSD said:


> Streetdoctor, I'm a 29er guy and it sounds like you are as well.
> 
> However it's worth noting that the Foxy 29 is positioned for the hard trail/ light enduro part of the spectrum. This is reflected in the higher BB height, as well the linear- regressive LR and shock choice on their premium version. Those suspension choices are designed to make trail chatter all but disappear, but it appears to be lacking in stock form for major obstacles. Honestly your description of bottoming on 1' drops is very concerning to me (It's probably not those little drops, but the repeated successive hits that bottomed it, which reflects a lot on the shock itself) cause I'll hit a couple of 6' to flat here and there and endless chunder and 1-2'ers. The reported traits of the Foxy 29 appear otherwise to be ideal for my usage.
> 
> But Mondraker does offer a 27.5" 'Super-enduro' bike that is positioned more as a Hard Enduro/ Light Downhill bike that utilizes a more Progressive rear suspension LR and I wonder if that platform might be better suited for a guy that does 30+ mph (wtf!!!)? Also the 27.5" wheel should not flex as readily.


After some time this morning on the phone with Fox and a local suspension shop I think you're right on in your assessment. The verdict was it will probably be really hard for me to get a bike with the LR of the Foxy29 feeling good with no bottom outs at my size and style. I'm going to check out the new Evil this afternoon which checks all my boxes and is very progressive. I'll probably be taking a chance and ordering up a frame this weekend if it feels good. I hit 37mph on the Foxy at WR.... That bike is fast!!! I'm a 29'er guy though, I wish they offered these bikes in adjustable leverage rates lol.


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## Foxy87 (Aug 4, 2016)

I rode both, Spartan 29 and Foxy 29. Liked both bikes. Both very fast, Foxy probably more efficient but Spartan faster Downhill plus more progressiv, I liked the high stack, gives lot of confidence in the steep stuff. Both felt on the stiff side regardingsuspension. To get an idea, I uploaded a vid from the Spartans testride:






Steep climbs (only fireroad) were surprisingly a tad better on the Spartan, Foxy front end got lighter...

I disagree with the Spartans Geo beeing off. Geo is modern, without beeing too progressiv nor too oldschool. And if Reach is too short, just size up and put a 30mm stem on it. I am 174cm which would put me right on a Medium. But the low ST lets me get away with a 150mm Dropper on the large. So as I will be using this as a racebike, I will probably go with the large, which has PLENTY progressiv geonumbers (take the Devinci FRG cup and you also get a 64.5 HA). It is crazy fast but with the short CS also quiet nimble to throw around.

Foxy is a great bike though, just want something more progressiv as I am looking to but a coil on and I feel the Spartan is more capable on the downs.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Streetdoctor said:


> DUDE. That bike looks ridiculously sick! I gotta say though, if you're going to run THOSE cranks you need to at least upgrade your damper to the Grip2.  It also sounds like Fox can re-valve the DPX2 and add an LSC adjustment for around $100. Looking into whether or not that's a better option than putting a 2019 X2 on it now.
> 
> My plan is a similar build with polished hubs/spokes and possibly the same cranks all black/blue/polished.


 The damper has actually been upgraded to an avalanche open bath. The avalanche cartridge is amazing and I put it up against any damper in the industry. I will be seeking an alternative for the rear shock in the future.


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

GearTech said:


> The damper has actually been upgraded to an avalanche open bath. The avalanche cartridge is amazing and I put it up against any damper in the industry. I will be seeking an alternative for the rear shock in the future.


redeemed


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

Video review for the Foxy 29


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

You stated in the video that you had the shock at 280 psi? That seems pretty high considering I’m 215 pounds and have the shock set at around 200 to 210 psi to achieve 35 to 32% SAG respectively.


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

GearTech said:


> You stated in the video that you had the shock at 280 psi? That seems pretty high considering I'm 215 pounds and have the shock set at around 200 to 210 psi to achieve 35 to 32% SAG respectively.


Right, that's what I needed to keep from bottoming. Running the sag so low made the initial and mid stroke pretty firm but pushing the bike hard it felt better that way deeper in the compression. If the bike had a progressive leverage rate I would run 25-30%. Unfortunately with that much sag I would have been bottoming everywhere. It's not real noticeable in the video but the consecutive hits a few seconds in front of where I dropped the chain (7:30ish) definitely overwhelmed the backend. Oddly enough I dropped a chain in the exact same spot on both the Foxy and the Ripmo which both have a regressive leverage rate. I've never dropped a chain there previously on my GG Smash or the Yeti SB150 both of which are much more progressive. I've ridden that trail a bunch (I think strava shows 26 laps) and that section actually has a segment and on that particular ride I placed 4th all time out of about 6000 so I'm definitely pushing the bike. I guess it's designed more as a trail/light enduro bike than full on Enduro which IMO is weird for a 150/160 travel bike.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Hmm interesting. I’m not having bottoming problems but I haven’t ridden a full on DH trail yet. I have hit a 6’ drop repeatedly without bottoming though. I have found that the bike likes a faster rebound than I’m used to. It feels too fast in the parking lot but feels amazing on the trails. 

I do want to experiment with volume spacers. At my weight I think they may offer some improvement.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Streetdoctor, you should talk to Austen at Qarv, the US importer for Mondraker located in Golden. I understand him and another guy there run the Foxy's, and both race the local Pro class.

Both are on the Superdeluxe, that I know for a fact. I choose the Superdeluxe (I ordered the bike only after I had solved the rear suspension issue) because Craig at Avy looked at the LR of the Foxy 29 and told me that it's the correct shock for the bike in terms of air volume and what not.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> Hmm interesting. I'm not having bottoming problems but I haven't ridden a full on DH trail yet. I have hit a 6' drop repeatedly without bottoming though. I have found that the bike likes a faster rebound than I'm used to. It feels too fast in the parking lot but feels amazing on the trails.
> 
> I do want to experiment with volume spacers. At my weight I think they may offer some improvement.


Yah, I was kind of wondering if something isn't way wrong, or maybe someone messed with the demo bike. cause that sounds like it was bottoming way too easily, especially considering the air pressure SD was running.


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

GearTech said:


> Hmm interesting. I'm not having bottoming problems but I haven't ridden a full on DH trail yet. I have hit a 6' drop repeatedly without bottoming though. I have found that the bike likes a faster rebound than I'm used to. It feels too fast in the parking lot but feels amazing on the trails.
> 
> I do want to experiment with volume spacers. At my weight I think they may offer some improvement.


That was what me pushed me away from the bike. If you're running the DPX2 the volume spacer that's in it is the biggest you can use. Only other option is to send it to Fox or your favorite suspension shop) for a firm compression tune (stock is light).

I'll reach out to Austen, thanks.

GBS was supposed to get back to me today with details on the shock setup on the demo bike but I never heard from them. I'll call them back tomorrow.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

I wouldn't want to mess with the compression tune personally. It pedals so well with everything open I'd hate to lose the small bump sensitivity that i have now.

Craig at Avalanche hates the newer Fox Shocks. There are no true valves or shim stacks to tune rendering them useless to him. I do want to pick up a Super Deluxe Air for him to modify to realize the true potential of the suspension. I don't hate it now though, quite the contrary.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

As I stated in the other Mondraker thread, I run 150 psi, and have yet to bottom out the shock. I just did a trip down south where I hit up Stokesville, Douthat, Carvin's Cove, Pisgah, and Dupont. If this bike was prone to bottoming out, those trails would have done it. Sounds like something was wrong with the demo bike. I stopped into Squatch Bikes in Brevard, NC while I was down there. They are a stocking dealer for Mondraker, and they hit up some massive trails on the Foxy without issue as well.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Streetdoctor said:


> I'll reach out to Austen, thanks.


Austen, will be in Austin, TX today doing a Mondraker demo FYI as I'm going to try and make it.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I finally saw and rode the Foxy 29 for the first time today on a trail I know somewhat. 
It wasn't the best day for a late afternoon ride as I'd began my day at 1am on 2 hours of sleep, but I wasn't going to miss out. 

There was good and bad: 

The good was all the stuff that is fixed on a bike like turning (it's gawd-darn phenomenal), geometry (finally a bike that fits), it's efficient (it was slightly more efficient than my SB5.5 but my Yeti has slightly faster rolling tires and CFs wheels), it's real fast (without feeling fast), extremely confidence inspiring when steep roughness is on the menu, it's way radder looking in person (so nice really and amazing that the heavy parts are so centralized, it has a very low stand over, yet it still fits a water bottle), and it swallows short 1' vertical ledges on the trail in the rear (when you smash them, you literally don't feel them).

The bad was mostly in the set up. Seat was set too low and was too narrow for my hip bones, I needed my extended spindle pedals as I was bumping my calves often on the chain stays but less after 45 minutes, I don't like 175mm cranks as I run 170s and this combined with the rear shock resulted in plenty of pedal strikes that i'm not used to, I don't love the DHRii as a front which is what they had on my demo, etc...
On this build (the yellow one), I really disliked the suspension. But I have full Avy on my Yeti. It's a bigger difference than I realized. The Grip 2 was okay, but the DHX2 pounded me. Somehow it used too much travel, while being bone jarringly stiff over chatter. That shock sucks imo, on this bike. I can't help but wonder if the 35% sag they set it up with in part gave the bike it's phenomenal handling but contributed to the awful rear suspension performance I experienced. 
I've ridden a couple of other new bikes with the same suspension and they seemed way better, on my very short rides. Obviously I made no adjustments.

I must say, I think 90% of riders would go better off if they put Avy on the old bike, instead of investing in a new bike and running stock suspension. I mean if you can't afford the latest bike and Avy suspension, you're better off on the old bike with the Avy suspension in my opinion. If I had to ride these bikes completely unchanged fron how they currently sit, I would prefer my old bike just because of the suspension. Fortunately for me, my new Foxy already has suspension from Avy sitting in the garage waiting for that frame to show up. 

I've been riding about 5 years but really got addicted in the last 2 years and essentially learned to ride on my SB5.5. It's going to take time for me to set up a new bike and become one with it. 

The guys at the Mondraker distributor and Alex the bike shop that represents the brand had a solid demo day and did a great job. Pizza and cold beer afterwards was appreciated. 

To make a good event even better, Alex the owner of the bike shop got word that my own frame just arrived at his shop and I could pick it up early tomorrow. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

> The bad was mostly in the set up. Seat was set too low and was too narrow for my hip bones, I needed my extended spindle pedals as I was bumping my calves often on the chain stays but less after 45 minutes, I don't like 175mm cranks as I run 170s and this combined with the rear shock resulted in plenty of pedal strikes that i'm not used to, I don't love the DHRii as a front which is what they had on my demo, etc...


The stock saddle is garbage. A better one definitely makes the bike more comfortable. My calves brush the upper linkage all the time. It is something that doesn't bother me now. I wonder if the crank size is based on the frame size? My medium has 170's, and I think they are too long.

EDIT: crank size is based on frame size according to Mondraker: S/M gets 170, L/XL gets 175.



> On this build (the yellow one), I really disliked the suspension. But I have full Avy on my Yeti. It's a bigger difference than I realized. The Grip 2 was okay, but the DHX2 pounded me. Somehow it used too much travel, while being bone jarringly stiff over chatter. That shock sucks imo, on this bike. I can't help but wonder if the 35% sag they set it up with in part gave the bike it's phenomenal handling but contributed to the awful rear suspension performance I experienced.


I wonder how much of this is shock and how much of this is rear wheel path? The rear wheel has less backwards travel than other suspension designs which causes the rear wheel to be pulled over objects fairly quickly in the travel. Either way, look forward to pics of your build.


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> Streetdoctor, you should talk to Austen at Qarv, the US importer for Mondraker located in Golden. I understand him and another guy there run the Foxy's, and both race the local Pro class.
> 
> Both are on the Superdeluxe, that I know for a fact. I choose the Superdeluxe (I ordered the bike only after I had solved the rear suspension issue) because Craig at Avy looked at the LR of the Foxy 29 and told me that it's the correct shock for the bike in terms of air volume and what not.


Its a weight thing not just a speed thing. Austen is fast, however SD has about 35lbs on him and Austen is SMOOTH when you watch him ride. Not saying SD is a smasher but even if he was just as smooth, there is still the extra weight to deal with. the suspension on most bikes come from the factory based off a 160-180 lb rider. If you are outside of that..... well you need a custom tune or a leverage ration that lighter folks complain they cant get full travel on no matter how hard they try.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

hitechredneck said:


> the suspension on most bikes come from the factory based off a 160-180 lb rider. If you are outside of that..... well you need a custom tune or a leverage ration that lighter folks complain they cant get full travel on no matter how hard they try.


Is this really true? I have a couple of riding buddies that are north of 200, one is quite a bit, and they haven't had to send out their shocks for custom tuning. One bike is an Evil and the other a Santa Cruz. The SC did get a volume spacer though. Not saying you are wrong, just genuinely curious if this is industry standard.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

dubthang said:


> Is this really true? I have a couple of riding buddies that are north of 200, one is quite a bit, and they haven't had to send out their shocks for custom tuning. One bike is an Evil and the other a Santa Cruz. The SC did get a volume spacer though. Not saying you are wrong, just genuinely curious if this is industry standard.


I had that impression too, but it came from hearsay. Interested in seeing hard evidence too. I'm 30 lbs off that target and wonder what I'm missing.

I had the impression that as long as I tuned my spring rate, the only damping tuning I needed was rebound tuning to handle the return force of stiffer or lighter springs extending. In compression, I figure the spring rate normalizes the rate at which the compression has to work, allowing one bike & shock to handle riders of varying weight.

I suppose heavier riders need more oil volume based on needing more damping force to control stronger spring extension (assuming this generates more heat). I suppose HSR could use tuning for those of much different weight. If anyone gets HSR custom tuned, they probably just get the compression side done too at the same time to account for riding style, type of trails, and desired ride feel according to the bike's leverage rate and spring rate curves.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

dubthang said:


> Is this really true? I have a couple of riding buddies that are north of 200, one is quite a bit, and they haven't had to send out their shocks for custom tuning. One bike is an Evil and the other a Santa Cruz. The SC did get a volume spacer though. Not saying you are wrong, just genuinely curious if this is industry standard.


I would say it's a near universal complaint that factory bikes have way too much high speed compression damping. It more so seems they're typically tuned for 220lb hucking kitties.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Also, I rode a large (i'm 5'11") with a 150 dropper and it's clear that my 175 with a shim will fit easily. 
Once KS releases a 185 or maybe even a 200 in 31.6 I'll get one.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Was it the DHX2 or DPX2 they had on this bike? The RR (yellow) normally comes with the DPX2.

If it was the DHX2 that would explain the issues since this bike's LR is not good for a coil. Mondraker made a mistake spec'ing the top bike with it IMO.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

All the bikes had the air shock. The cheaper Fox one. The rep verified that the X2 will bolt right on.
Honestly it was so chattery I would have really liked to have ridden the coil.
For a trail ride where I did not do any drops bigger than 2', the coil probably would have been much better.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

The leverage rate for that bike is not suitable for a coil. Regardless of what configuration Mondraker sells with it.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> All the bikes had the air shock. The cheaper Fox one. The rep verified that the X2 will bolt right on.
> Honestly it was so chattery I would have really liked to have ridden the coil.
> For a trail ride where I did not do any drops bigger than 2', the coil probably would have been much better.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


I'm not sure the X2 is a solution. It needs a lower volume air shock to perform optimally. I'm curious to hear your impressions of the Avy tuned Super Deluxe. The DPX2 isn't necessarily a "cheaper" shock than the X2, it's intended for different purposes. According to Craig at Avy the X2 is extremely unreliable which is why I eliminated it as a candidate.



Streetdoctor said:


> The leverage rate for that bike is not suitable for a coil. Regardless of what configuration Mondraker sells with it.


100% agree

FWIW I'll be tuning the suspension with a Shock Wiz in the near future. I'll report my findings.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

I can confirm that the 0.6cuin spacer does come installed stock. It looks like that is the largest spacer that can be used in this shock.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Streetdoctor said:


> The leverage rate for that bike is not suitable for a coil. Regardless of what configuration Mondraker sells with it.


For sure I agree and I was one of the earliest proponents of that idea, when I was 1st looking at the bike. But now that I've ridden the bike and I give it better consideration, I think that for a lot of riders that don't do big jumps, the coil might be a better option.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

GearTech said:


> I can confirm that the 0.6cuin spacer does come installed stock. It looks like that is the largest spacer that can be used in this shock.
> 
> View attachment 1223099


Thanks for confirming this and what a bummer. That's what the 4 digit Tune ID showed on the air can when I looked it up on the Fox site but I was really confused by the LBS saying it was a 0.2.... Apparently they didn't really look. To clarify they definitely didn't check the demo bike I rode because it was within sight of me, but they checked "one in back".


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

Suns_PSD said:


> For sure I agree and I was one of the earliest proponents of that idea, when I was 1st looking at the bike. But now that I've ridden the bike and I give it better consideration, I think that for a lot of riders that don't do big jumps, the coil might be a better option.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


I would say jumps won't be the issue, they're generally smooth. The issue will be with rocky terrain with repetitive hits like in the video I posted above. Nothing in that video is bigger than a 12" drop. I'm not sure why all the bike companies are making "trail" 29'ers with 150/160mm travel. These bikes are begging to be ridden hard and fast and they just aren't capable with someone bigger than 150lb. I'm not an engineer but it seems it would be easier to develop a bike around a progressive leverage rate and tune out any perceived harshness based on rider "aggressivity" (is that a word? LOL) and weight vs the opposite.

Maybe in the future bike sizes will also have modified leverage rates. Assuming someone on a large or XL will weight north of 180lb, and more linear or progressive/regressive for the smaller sizes.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Man, I'm not sure why you guys had such bad experiences on this bike. I'm not experiencing what you're describing at all.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

GearTech said:


> Man, I'm not sure why you guys had such bad experiences on this bike. I'm not experiencing what you're describing at all.


Same here, but I am interested in your Shock Wiz findings.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Did I get the first frame only? 










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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Suns_PSD said:


> Did I get the first frame only?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow. What a beaut!


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Streetdoctor said:


> I would say jumps won't be the issue, they're generally smooth. The issue will be with rocky terrain with repetitive hits like in the video I posted above. Nothing in that video is bigger than a 12" drop. I'm not sure why all the bike companies are making "trail" 29'ers with 150/160mm travel. These bikes are begging to be ridden hard and fast and they just aren't capable with someone bigger than 150lb. I'm not an engineer but it seems it would be easier to develop a bike around a progressive leverage rate and tune out any perceived harshness based on rider "aggressivity" (is that a word? LOL) and weight vs the opposite.
> 
> Maybe in the future bike sizes will also have modified leverage rates. Assuming someone on a large or XL will weight north of 180lb, and more linear or progressive/regressive for the smaller sizes.


That's a valving issue plain and simple. You might have ridden on a shock that was blown out. Austen with mondraker at the demo said he does 10 and 12' drops on his and he doesn't bottom it out.

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Okay. ShockWiz ride done. I flogged the hell outta it this ride. 2nd place time on a DH section of this trail that is twisty and bumpy as hell. 

The short of it is that the DPX2 is not a great shock for this bike. I’m going to eat my previous words here. Anyone that weighs over 195# will just about have to close the rebound according to the ShcokWiz.

I got as close as I could get to an ideal tune with the adjustments on the DPX2 Performance and the ShockWiz told me to slightly decrease low speed compression (can’t be done), add a small spacer (can’t be done), and slightly increase high speed compression (can’t be done). This was with 193psi at 33% sag. I’m going to go back at 30% sag to see how that fairs. Going any higher on the pressure would overpower the rebound. 

FWIW the bike felt better than ever, really amazing on this ride. 

Maybe an X2 or a CCDB Air with their additional adjustments would be better? Custom tuned to my fat ass that is. 

Can’t wait to hear how the Super Deluxe fairs Sun. Sick looking frame BTW!!!


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## xavierp (Jan 18, 2011)

Suns_PSD said:


> Did I get the first frame only?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 I had never heard of this color before, beautiful! Enjoy the building process!

edit: that may actually just be a baby blue/red? It kinda looks like gray/orange.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> Did I get the first frame only?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Congrats, and quoted again because it looks so nice.


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

Suns_PSD said:


> That's a valving issue plain and simple. You might have ridden on a shock that was blown out. Austen with mondraker at the demo said he does 10 and 12' drops on his and he doesn't bottom it out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


I've been riding long enough to know when a shock is clapped out, I assure you this one wasn't. Austen isn't dropping 10-12' to flat, a transition landing no matter how high is really smooth and you really don't need any suspension at all. Put plainly it's a bad litmus test for what makes "good suspension". Ever watch a slopestyle comp like crankworx in person? Lots of hard tails on REALLY big jumps.... Austen also weighs about 150lb. I have a good 50 pounds on him. FWIW the last race we were at he had 40 seconds on me total over 24 minutes of racing and the only true DH stage he had less than 1 second on me.

Where good suspension is necessary and design comes into play is on high speed repetitive hits. Like DH and Enduro racing. Unfortunately for bigger guys and current trends there's not a whole lot of bikes out there that work ideally for this type of riding. I'm not trying to knock anyone's personal bike choice. We all ride differently. My video review above should indicate the style of riding I enjoy. I hit 37mph in that video as well. It's simply not the bike I'm looking for much like the Ibis Ripmo. Take my review for what it is, based on the video evidence presented.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Not sure why the coloring looked so weird in the above photo. It's just a blue/ red XR model.

Superdeluxe bolts right on!

My combo MRP bash guard/ chain guide just won't clear the frame. Just the top chain guide portion contacts the frame before it bottoms out. Thankfully chain guides are pretty redundant these days. So I just chopped off the upper chain guide portion.

As far as suspension goes, listen valving is what primarily controls the rate of the suspension movement. The spring, air or otherwise, is an uncontrolled pogo stick without the benefit of proper shock valving. Even with way to much, spring rate doesn't do much to prevent suspension bottoming. That's not what it's for. 
If multiple small but sharp hits are bottoming it's a bit not enough HSC and/ or too much HSR.

I will ShockWiz the bike as well. It's a tool however, not the ultimate authority I have discovered.

Ultimately these cheap Fox components do not have speed sensitive damping, which is needed.

My BB arrives late tomorrow so I'll get a ride in on Friday for sure.

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Cool, we’ll see you in the other threads then. Thanks for letting others who shred the gnar chunder faster than 99% of the other mere mortals know that this bike isn’t for them 😁😉😉

I hope you find a bike that suits you soon. In the meantime you’ll just have to continue to lose races to that flawed bike that Austin is riding. Maybe we could get some video evidence of that? 😂

I’m goofing around of course. Have fun out there.


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

GearTech said:


> Cool, we'll see you in the other threads then. Thanks for letting others who shred the gnar chunder faster than 99% of the other mere mortals know that this bike isn't for them 
> 
> I hope you find a bike that suits you soon. In the meantime you'll just have to continue to lose races to that flawed bike that Austin is riding. Maybe we could get some video evidence of that? 
> 
> I'm goofing around of course. Have fun out there.


There's always someone faster and I love chocolate (and beer). 

To be fair there were 2 (maybe more?) disclaimers that my reviews are from the viewpoint of someone who races


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

To be faaaiiiirrrrr... Do you watch Letterkenny by any chance?


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

GearTech said:


> To be faaaiiiirrrrr... Do you watch Letterkenny by any chance?


:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Gonna give the X2 a shot. I can get my hands on one at no cost so why not? I’ve also reached out to another shock manufacturer to see if they’ll let me demo a shock to test its compatibility.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

GearTech said:


> Gonna give the X2 a shot. I can get my hands on one at no cost so why not? I've also reached out to another shock manufacturer to see if they'll let me demo a shock to test its compatibility.


Who did you reach out to? I bet a DVO Topaz would feel great on this bike.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

dubthang said:


> Who did you reach out to? I bet a DVO Topaz would feel great on this bike.


Can't reveal who yet. DVO Topaz is very similar to a Super Deluxe so you're probably right.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Sun_PSD, how's things? You get that thing built up yet?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> Sun_PSD, how's things? You get that thing built up yet?


So close.

It's really my 1st bike build so after work it goes pretty slowly between the kid and the wife and all that.

Everything is completed except the cranks (Eewings!) are not installed. I tried to install them last night but I guess they need an additional shim because they just had too much gap and it was making the chain ring incorrectly lined up. I was a pretty annoyed because it caused my chain ring to scratch my frame as a result.

Since this happened last night I have not been able to speak to any bike shops about it, can I just go buy a 30mm spindle shim from any bike shop? Is this normal?

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Did you use a 2.5mm BB spacer in the drive side? You need a 2.5mm BB spacer between the BB and the frame and the metal 1.75mm spindle spacer that's included with the cranks. I had to get the 2.5mm spacer separately. ANy bike shop should have them.
Here's a link to the manual (you probably have it though) We have the BSA73mm BB.

http://www.canecreek.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/eeWings-Instruction-Sheet_3_18_2018-FINAL.pdf


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I used the included 1.75mm spacer on the drive side. 

I had the BB wrong! I looked at the same chart but concluded incorrectly that I only needed the 1.75mm spacer. I'll pick up a 2.5mm today (after work) and some fingernail polish for the scratch and be riding by 5 pm today.

Thanks for that explanation as I needed that.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> I used the included 1.75mm spacer on the drive side.
> 
> I had the BB wrong! I looked at the same chart but concluded incorrectly that I only needed the 1.75mm spacer. I'll pick up a 2.5mm today (after work) and some fingernail polish for the scratch and be riding by 5 pm today.
> 
> Thanks for that explanation as I needed that.


Happy to help. I accidentally used one of the thin plastic spacers instead of the 1.75mm spacers initially. It didn't cause any rubbing but it was close and didn't look right. After going through the little box again, finding the actual 1.75mm spacer and installing it everything looks (and rides) great.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Mine took considerably more spacers but it's all good now. 

Heading out for first ride now. 

So check this out: on a Park Tool scale, 28.1# with a rear noodle, real tires, XD rear rim, and Avy cartridge. 
My on bike tool kit + water bottle holder+ pedals + bash guard weighs 2.4#, so a ready to ride weight of 30.5# straight up Enduro ready. 

That's impressive. 

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

It is a phenomenal bicycle in every regard. I'm over the moon. It is superior to my yeti 5.5 in every measure, up, down and around.

I really enjoy the extra confidence when descending very steep rough chutes..

As far as the shock that I really disliked on the demo ride, the Superdeluxe with the Avalanche tune that I have is pure heaven.

I hammered as fast as ever through repeated long fast rocky sections, and this suspension just held up beautifully The forks are considerably better as well, but the huge difference is in the shock.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Suns_PSD said:


> It is a phenomenal bicycle in every regard. I'm over the moon. It is superior to my yeti 5.5 in every measure, up, down and around.
> 
> I really enjoy the extra confidence when descending very steep rough chutes..
> 
> ...


Congrats - this has been on my list for a while...

What size and how tall/inseam are you? Did you notice any bottom-out/blowing through travel on big hits?


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

On a totally random note, a rolled up tube fits perfectly into the front triangle hole behind the head tube on the larger frames. Sadly, I cannot do this on my medium.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

cheezwhip said:


> Congrats - this has been on my list for a while...
> 
> What size and how tall/inseam are you? Did you notice any bottom-out/blowing through travel on big hits?


I'm 5'11" but the story is a little more complicated than that. See I lost about 3/4" of height when I shattered my spine in an MX accident. Whoops. So my arms and legs are that of a person a bit taller I suppose. Pretty sure I run 33" from the pedal to top of the seat cause I'm in to efficiency.

That's a 175mm KS Lev dropper on the bike and it's about all I can fit. I have about 8mm showing.

So I smashed some very rough wheel stoppers at high speed (high speed in chunder for me is like 13 mph!) , but the only drops I did were small, like 2' and less. I'll go up to about a 5' drop to flat on a couple of trails I know well but that's my current limit. The wheel stoppers just go on and on at times and are just straight up jagged, often immovable rock, which I like!

I did not use all of my suspension nor bottom it. I definitely have more to go. About 13mm to go on the rear shock (out of 62.5 to start with) which gives me more to work with on bigger hits and bike park trips. I set my sag quick and dirty at around 30% R 20% F.

I rolled in to a very chunky gully that I'm not sure was even part of the trail. It was about 40' rough and darn steep (not even remotely possible to walk it), and this bike gave me so much confidence I just rolled with it. I used too much front brake at one point going down and the rear tire lifted, but I just let off and kept going.

The efficiency is mad. Remember that I took all the parts right off my Yeti 5.5, well this bike is WAY faster than the Yeti with the exact drivetrain components right down to air pressure. It is shocking. I am certain I will have some riding buddies that will be shocked too. I was maintaining a considerably higher pace in the in between sections than I ever could consistently on the Yeti.

After the Demo I did on the stock suspension the other day I was very prepared to say 'Hey, great bike but listen SI is just better" but now that I've ridden both bikes on Avy I'd take the Foxy 5:1 over the 5.5. It's not real plush, but dang it works.

The new Eewing cranks I just installed might be a bit wider than my old X01s, I think they are as I had to shim them a lot to remove spacing, but I also have my extended spindle pedals that I usually run on the bike and I had zero issues with calf contact on the bike frame. I bumped them when I turned around to look behind me but while actually riding, no contact at all.

I'm just tickled with the bike and so eager to get more time on it.

Ps. Yeti 5.5 frame for sale. $1600 shipped!


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Great to hear that you love it!

Did you use the preload spacer ring screwing it in to take up the slack? It shouldn't take more than the recommended spacers. I suppose there's room for another one but it isn't necessary.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

Suns_PSD said:


> The efficiency is mad. Remember that I took all the parts right off my Yeti 5.5, well this bike is WAY faster than the Yeti with the exact drivetrain components right down to air pressure. It is shocking. I am certain I will have some riding buddies that will be shocked too. I was maintaining a considerably higher pace in the in between sections than I ever could consistently on the Yeti.
> 
> After the Demo I did on the stock suspension the other day I was very prepared to say 'Hey, great bike but listen SI is just better" but now that I've ridden both bikes on Avy I'd take the Foxy 5:1 over the 5.5. It's not real plush, but dang it works.


Surprising to hear. I was under the impression that Switch Infinity is the best overall on the market.

What chainring size did you run on the SB55? I didn't like that one with a 32t or smaller chainring. Kind of demands a 36t, since it is made to race, and the anti-squat and kickback levels would be somewhat excessive with smaller. Some of the runs near me have the top 10 averaging almost 35 mph over a minute and a half; no way anyone's hitting that with a 32x10.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

ninjichor said:


> Surprising to hear. I was under the impression that Switch Infinity is the best overall on the market.


I guess their marketing is working!


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> Great to hear that you love it!
> 
> Did you use the preload spacer ring screwing it in to take up the slack? It shouldn't take more than the recommended spacers. I suppose there's room for another one but it isn't necessary.


I called Cane Creek and they said " they take all different amounts of shims. 
Even though we have the exact same bike, and the same cranks, we have different BBs which I guess accounts for the difference.

I needed 4mm on the drive side, 3mm on the drive side, and still 2 turns of the preload adjuster.

Without the extra spacers, the rotor was right against the chainstay.

It's fine, still pissed about the scratch though.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

ninjichor said:


> Surprising to hear. I was under the impression that Switch Infinity is the best overall on the market.
> 
> What chainring size did you run on the SB55? I didn't like that one with a 32t or smaller chainring. Kind of demands a 36t, since it is made to race, and the anti-squat and kickback levels would be somewhat excessive with smaller. Some of the runs near me have the top 10 averaging almost 35 mph over a minute and a half; no way anyone's hitting that with a 32x10.


I always ran a 32. Running the same on the Foxy.

To be blunt, you can't ride a lot of our terrain on a 36T. Yeah, I could push a 34T, but the chain line would be less ideal.

According to Antonio's blog, 32T combined with Eagle gives you pretty good AS #s on a 5.5. But if the bike needs a 36T to work right, it's not a bike that's ideal for me.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> I called Cane Creek and they said " they take all different amounts of shims.
> Even though we have the exact same bike, and the same cranks, we have different BBs which I guess accounts for the difference.
> 
> I needed 4mm on the drive side, 3mm on the drive side, and still 2 turns of the preload adjuster.
> ...


Oh gotcha, I thought you picked up the same BB that I did. Bummer about the scratch.

I'm running a 30t oval because I don't need to go 40 and I like to have a bailout gear. Talking with some of the guys at Golden Bike Shop recently they were talking about going to 28t. Is running a bigger ring a badge of honor? If it is I'll go pick up a 36t or 38t ASAP. ?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Many bikes seem to have better AS #s with a bigger front rotor due to the angle of the chain. 
Look on a Yeti where the top of the chain is in relation to the moving pivot on the SI. When that chain line is above the pivot, AS increases. When the chain line is below that pivot, you get a 'raising the draw bridge effect'" meaning some of your pedal power goes in to the rear shock. Of course the chain line, and therefore the AS changes everytime the bike sags or you change gears. 
According to the charts, the Foxy isn't really sensitive to gearing choice. So choose your gearing so that what ever speed you mostly operate at, results in a straight chain line to reduce friction and wear the most. 
I don't climb big mountains, but we have tough climbs everywhere here. My experience is that a 28T is too slow to maintain momentum and also makes the gears too close together for my liking. I rarely use my 50T with a 32T anyways, and I think I'll use it less now on the Foxy.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

GearTech said:


> Oh gotcha, I thought you picked up the same BB that I did. Bummer about the scratch.
> 
> I'm running a 30t oval because I don't need to go 40 and I like to have a bailout gear. Talking with some of the guys at Golden Bike Shop recently they were talking about going to 28t. Is running a bigger ring a badge of honor? If it is I'll go pick up a 36t or 38t ASAP. ?


Some guys use a bigger ring to have a more straight chainline and put less torque on the chain (as compared to being in the 10 ring) when hammering. It also keeps the derailleur tucked a little more.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Understood. I don’t have much issue topping out the 30t. There are sections where a 32-34 would be better. I like having the easy gears for the steep technical climbs we have around here. They’re short but they make you work.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

You make it sound like mtn bikers 5~ years ago with 2x10 have badges of honor for their chainring sizes.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Second ride in the books and it just so happened to be on the same trail I demoed the Foxy on before I had mine just 5 days ago.
It's just a ripping bike man. I'm sprinting in places that I couldn't before.
This trail pounded me on the OEM suspension but felt great today on the Avy stuff. Although not as plush as my Avy tuned 5.5.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Shockwiz results from first ride with the Shockwiz on the Avy SuperDeluxe.
Just set the sag and ran it the way Craig sent it.

Deception is a great and bumpy trail, but it doesn't have as much harshness as some trails I ride. I suspect on the steeper yet rougher trails, the HSC will drop right in to the center.










Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> Understood. I don't have much issue topping out the 30t. There are sections where a 32-34 would be better. I like having the easy gears for the steep technical climbs we have around here. They're short but they make you work.


This bike is sooo much faster particularly on the climbs than my previous bike, That I'm doing some very steep stuff in 3rd gear and the absolute slowest of them all in 2nd.

In time I might go to a 34T oval because I'm just going faster everywhere. I'm going to find a section of trail where I'm sort of in my power gear and I'm going to come to a stop without shifting and examine my chain line. I want that chain line to be as ideal as possible in the gears I spend most of my time on. I only topped out the old bike on pavement sections and I don't see that changing on this bike.

We'll see.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I think it was GearTech that had the tip about moving the rear tire fender to the other sides of the tab?

This works well. You don't even have to undo the factory zip ties as the plastic fender is so flexible that you just pop each corner of the fender around the tab placing the fender closer to the shock and further from the tire.

With this little hack, my rear tire clearance to a 2.35 Hans Dampf went from marginal to more than enough.

But a 2.4 tire is all this frame can comfortably handle. I have a brand new 2.5 Aggressor on the shelf that I won't be able to run.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

It was someone else that made that suggestion. I looked at it, doesn't the lower portion of the fender rub on the linkage if it isn't cut?


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

In other news, the Float X2 fits like a glove. Can't wait to see how it feels!


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Nice!


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

GearTech said:


> It was someone else that made that suggestion. I looked at it, doesn't the lower portion of the fender rub on the linkage if it isn't cut?


That was me. The lower fender tab doesn't hit the link when moved to the other side of the mounting points. If you move it closer to the shock then you will need to trim the fender tab off. It doesn't really matter as the bottom of the fender doesn't seem to block much crap from getting onto the link.

This bike could probably use some moto foam in front of the shock too. I've already ground down some acorns and leaves while riding.


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## MarcoM85BG (Nov 6, 2018)

Hi guys,
I'm asking you if someone has tried the alloy version, I mean the "first" model or the most affordable one...








And also: the 205x62.5 shock is unusual, like the one mounted on the new Trek Slash (not "normal" x60 or x65)... Anyone know if a shock change will be dangerous for the rider and for the bike?
Thanks in advance Mondrakers!
Marco


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## mrallen (Oct 11, 2017)

Suns_PSD said:


> I'm 5'11" but the story is a little more complicated than that. See I lost about 3/4" of height when I shattered my spine in an MX accident. Whoops. So my arms and legs are that of a person a bit taller I suppose. Pretty sure I run 33" from the pedal to top of the seat cause I'm in to efficiency.


33"? Ok, so now I understand why you wanted such a longer bike. At basically the same height, I'm at 37" from spindle to seat top.

Glad you're loving the new bike.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

MarcoM85BG said:


> Hi guys,
> I'm asking you if someone has tried the alloy version, I mean the "first" model or the most affordable one...
> 
> 
> ...


I believe the Alloy version was just released, the Carbon actually came first. Unless you are referring to the 27.5 version?

There are many 205x62.5 shocks available now and I'm sure more will come available in the future since it is not such an uncommon size anymore. A shock change to the proper size poses no danger unless there is interference between the shock and frame or linkage.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

MarcoM85BG said:


> Hi guys,
> I'm asking you if someone has tried the alloy version, I mean the "first" model or the most affordable one...
> 
> 
> ...


The Alloy Foxy 29 should ride the same, just gain a small bit of weight. Probably about 1#-1.5#, which is about the same amount it would gain going from that non-reservoir shock, to a coil shock.

As far as the shocks go, you or your shock tuner can easily add a stroke limiting spacer as this is the same way the manufacturers limit the travel. The overall length must be 205 however. Avalanche added a machined nylon spacer for me while revalving and didn't even charge me any extra.

The guys at Qarv (the US Mondraker distributor) actually tested a 205 x 65 shock for me (Austen, Cal and those guys are awesome) on a Foxy 29 and told me that clearance is too tight and that I needed to limit stroke to 62.5mm.

BTW, for a trail bike, that lower air volume shock DPS that is on the alloy version is likely a better fit for this LR.

It looks like currently the shocks you can get for this bike are currently the: DPX2, X2, the DHX2 (I just sold my take off to a guy here), DVO, and lastly you can just purchase the Rockshox Superdeluxe RC3 either take off from the Spartan or maybe someone could get Sram to sell just sell them since they are already providing them for OEM builds.

PS. I tried to buy a shock roller bearing kit for my Foxy 29 but they are not possible. Something to do with the way the lower eyelet bolt threads in. It's a shame but I don't really care as the bike is working GREAT!


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Did some ShockWizzing this afternoon with the X2. It's a great shock for this bike. I'm 220 geared up running 195psi for about 33% sag. I had some interesting findings. HSC and LSC are fully open and ShockWiz was even asking that it be open slightly more. Rebound on the other hand is only 6-7 clicks from closed for a perfect score on the Wiz. The overall score was a 96% which is pretty good. I did use all of the travel but I couldn't tell that I did. The testing included a fast heavily rooted section, a slower section with many 1'-2' rock step downs and a 4' drop at the end, repeated 5' drops at speed and sufficient pedally sections in between. I sessioned all of this about ten times. I do need to get out on a full ride with the Wiz to get a better cross section of my typical ride but for now it feels fast and stable. I need to get some good really high speed bumpy sections for testing. I have the feeling it'll ask to up the compression a bit then.

After I recover from spending all this money on this build the X2 will be going to Avalanche to become phenomenal instead of just great.

It's hard to describe the feeling of the suspension this bike. It's not "plush" where you are numb from what is going on underneath you but when it's dialed in you "feel" the trail and have really excellent traction everywhere. That plus the ridiculously great geometry make this a high speed weapon.

The reviews are correct. It's fast and likes to be going fast.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Glad the X2 is working out. 

My Shockwiz took a kick from my leg today and I lost like 30psi shock pressure which wrecked a portion of my ride. 

I did use all but maybe the last 6mm of my fork stanchion tube with about 94psi in it; but the shock is good and not in danger of a hard bottom for me. 

But listen, for all the radness going fast and descending on this bike, the real story is the way it climbs, accelerates, and even goes on the flats. It's XC fast. My usual riding partner, that often has more endurance and can remain faster longer than me, is getting dropped badly in the in-between sections. Sweeping, fast, pedally sections, man I'm gone. 

I loved the turning when I demoed the Foxy, but I've struggled with the turning on my personal bike. Could be set up, my tire choice, suspension, 42 (instead of 44) offset, or just trail conditions (it's been slick). If i'm going real fast, it's a good turning bike. But with slick with tight turns it's hard to keep the bike on line, or even get it there. The bike needs to be leaned but on tight single track with trees on the inside that's tough. 

Still loving this thing. When I have my flow and am using momentum, it's real fast. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

You’re right. It’s just fast everywhere which is what makes it so exceptional. I’ve PR’d climbs and full loops on just about every ride without trying or even realizing I was going that fast. 

The flat corner turning at medium speed is something to get used to. I still don’t have it down consistently. If there are trees on the inside forget about it if it’s slick. I am running DHR II 2.3R 2.4wtF and it did improve the cornering everywhere vs the Aggressor. I want to move the DHR 2.4 to the rear and try a 2.5wt DHF on the front soon.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I tried a lot of tires on the Yeti and had settled on a DHF 3c 2.5 up front with the Aggressor 2.5 Dual in the rear but recently I decided to search for something that rolled better and gave up minimal traction.

I thought I had found it with a Butcher front and a Hans Dampf rear (with a noodle) and in back to back testing on the Yeti I really liked the combo; but they aren't working as well for me now on the Foxy.

I just moved the drivetrain, tires and all to the Foxy, and now i'm struggling a bit with traction front and rear. Could be because it was 98 degrees and 95% humidity when I tested the setup so we were all riding like dogs anyways. Could be because I'm just moving faster on the Foxy. Could be because trail conditions are just slicker (they are).

Not sure yet. I do know I'm not going back to the rear 2.5 as it won't fit on this bike anyways but also it's draggy and almost more traction than I need in the rear.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> I tried a lot of tires on the Yeti and had settled on a DHF 3c 2.5 up front with the Aggressor 2.5 Dual in the rear but recently I decided to search for something that rolled better and gave up minimal traction.
> 
> I thought I had found it with a Butcher front and a Hans Dampf rear (with a noodle) and in back to back testing on the Yeti I really liked the combo; but they aren't working as well for me now on the Foxy.
> 
> ...


Tires are fun aren't they? Expensive though...

Experiment with sessioning a corner that is giving you trouble. I did this over the weekend on a turn that was giving me fits and I found that I just didn't have my weight balanced correctly. There's a lot of room on this bike to move forward and back. It seems like you have to keep your weight forward a bit but not extremely so. Being low and really weighting the bike evenly or maybe a little frontward bias is working well for me. Trees on the inside line are tough, just have to find the right line if there even is one. The good thing is that if you have to take a turn a little slower the bike accelerates so quickly you can make up for it lol. That gets tiring though...


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> I tried a lot of tires on the Yeti and had settled on a DHF 3c 2.5 up front with the Aggressor 2.5 Dual in the rear but recently I decided to search for something that rolled better and gave up minimal traction.
> 
> I thought I had found it with a Butcher front and a Hans Dampf rear (with a noodle) and in back to back testing on the Yeti I really liked the combo; but they aren't working as well for me now on the Foxy.
> 
> ...


I never liked the Hans Dampf for anything other than straight lines. I still have the Aggressor out back and the DHR up front, and have had good results. My go-to tires have been E13's lately, and I've had really good luck with the Bonty XR4's too. I'll probably swap to either of these next season.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

How about the e.13 TRS Race/+? Has anyone any experience with them? Been thinking of trying them out when my MaxxWearouts are toasted.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

e13 TRS Race rolls worse than a High Roller 2 and DHF. Not sure about the Plus version, which I got the impression was the budget version.

I know my Kenda Hellkat outdoes the e13 tires in grip and toughness (both roll pretty slow), and the Spec Eliminator is almost a Hellkat clone in tread pattern. Hellkat's my new standard to judge tires against, and the Eliminator is on my list to try after I wear out the Hellkat and try the Assegai.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

It's pretty easy to get great traction. The key is to get the fastest rolling tires while having just enough traction. 

Any tire I run, I'll push it to where it begins to drift regularly.

When I use to ride a lot by myself I'd run boat anchor tires, which really helped my novice confidence. But when you jump in these advanced group rides with a bunch or racers, you have to sprint on every in between section just to stay in the group. Managing a slight loss of grip on a decent is easy, but sprinting all out on every pedally section on slow rolling tires, will push you past your lactate threshold almost immediately, from which you will not recover from on that ride.

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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

Suns_PSD said:


> It's pretty easy to get great traction. The key is to get the fastest rolling tires while having just enough traction.
> 
> Any tire I run, I'll push it to where it begins to drift regularly.
> 
> ...


Sounds like you're doing cross country rides on a 150/160 travel bike?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

dubthang said:


> I never liked the Hans Dampf for anything other than straight lines. I still have the Aggressor out back and the DHR up front, and have had good results. My go-to tires have been E13's lately, and I've had really good luck with the Bonty XR4's too. I'll probably swap to either of these next season.


I've tried them 3x now (rear only) and the newest one is working pretty well for me so far as a great rolling, pretty good traction tire. But trail conditions have been iffy so the jury is still out. 
They have a rep as tearing easily, but I damage tires much less these days and run a noodle as my 'get home plan'. No problems so far.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Streetdoctor said:


> Sounds like you're doing cross country rides on a 150/160 travel bike?


Not even close. But we have to pedal a lot. We don't have huge descents here. The longest are maybe 10 min and still require plenty of pedaling to go your fastest. 
I watched your video, if you took the roughest of that terrain, and often rougher, it's like that but rolling the entire time, up and down.

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

New review from Bike Radar.

https://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/mondraker-29er-foxy-video-53258/


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Pretty typical Foxy review. Very capable and fast bike. But if you are looking for the best bike, well it's not at a great price. I'm glad I went frame only for sure.

I'm crazy for mine. Really enjoying the heck out of it. And I've definitely learned to turn the thing well.

My talent or bravery has not improved (well maybe marginally more brave) on this bike, but overall speed on a trail is notably faster.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Last update for a while from me.

I am braver on this bike. Went to a trail that has given me fits the few times I rode it before. It's got some very steep rocky descends that go on for about 20 seconds or so (I'm sure that's short to other people). Too steep to stop or even slow down much, have to execute a couple of curves and if you don't you are going to nail a tree or rock and going to have a long tumble down. Basically once you start there is no stopping. No problem on the Foxy! The bike's geometry just inspires confidence. This was something I specifically was looking to remedy with this purchase and it worked for me. I found the Yeti 5.5 had me feeling perched up a bit high, awkward, and forward and this effected my confidence a lot on steeps. No longer a problem.

I'm still working on a good feel for a solid manual on the bike (radically different stem and bike length makes this more different than I expected) and as a novice doing drops up to about 5' on the previous Yeti, well I'm still working up to it on the Mondraker. But what I've done (3'ers), it handles them beautifully and I look forward to getting back to where I was and beyond in this regard.

Climbing and the flat in between sections were another part of my skills that were lacking and I wanted something that climbed better than the Yeti 5.5 I had, which is no easy task. I have been a good explosive short term rocky climber for some time, but the sustained stuff would have me passing out from exhaustion. No more! This bike is insanely efficient and really gives me the gusto to push on the flats and longer climbs. It's noticeable. I have a regular riding partner that 3 weeks ago was smoking me on the pedally sections if they went on for more than 2-3 minutes. Well this has been reversed and I spent plenty of time waiting for him the last 2 times we rode, with me on the Foxy. It's not a small difference and I really got my money's worth in regard to the Foxy helping me with my riding shortcomings.

Who says you can't buy yourself faster? I sure did!

Oh, and my Avy suspension front and rear is flippin' awesome. I have still not used the last 3-4mm of my rear shock or the last 10mm of the forks, so that's my reserve for the bigger drops I guess.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

dubthang said:


> Is this really true? I have a couple of riding buddies that are north of 200, one is quite a bit, and they haven't had to send out their shocks for custom tuning. One bike is an Evil and the other a Santa Cruz. The SC did get a volume spacer though. Not saying you are wrong, just genuinely curious if this is industry standard.


At 200lbs for the corect spring/air on most bikes the rebound wasnt enough. Same for forks. Compression is hit or miss, most suspention components wont blow off compression enough (HSC)you're using a lot of LSC.

A lot of people get used to their bike, but it doesnt mean its optimal.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Question for those with the bike. How do you feel about the stack height? My medium feels about an 1" too low for me to ride comfortably on long trips. On short rides I don't notice it as much. I will be adding a riser bar (maybe 50mm) to the cockpit over the winter to see how this changes things up for next season.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

dubthang said:


> Question for those with the bike. How do you feel about the stack height? My medium feels about an 1" too low for me to ride comfortably on long trips. On short rides I don't notice it as much. I will be adding a riser bar (maybe 50mm) to the cockpit over the winter to see how this changes things up for next season.


I run my stem nearly slammed but I've always ran 40mm rise Renthal bars. I do this to increase Reach on all my bikes.

Using the exact same components from my Yeti, the Mondraker actually has the bars slightly higher than I remember my Yeti being in relation to the seat.

On edit: the Foxy has 4mm MORE stack height than my previous Yeti 5.5.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

It's no biggie, but I get a little rear tire rub. 
I'm running a rear XD Nobl TR36 (30mm ID) wheel laced up with Sapim spokes. 
Tire is the newest Hans Dampf 2.35 and it measures an actual 2.46!

I'm currently experimenting with my lowest pressure yet at 26psi (I weigh 180#) and this is only possible due to me running a rear tire noodle (Pepi's).

I'm more than decent through the rough fast turns.

Just an FYI.









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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

So is anyone going to try out the included front offset to try a 65 degree head angle for shredding, or maybe even the 67 degree for trail riding?

Curious if anyone has experimented with the former.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> So is anyone going to try out the included front offset to try a 65 degree head angle for shredding, or maybe even the 67 degree for trail riding?
> 
> Curious if anyone has experimented with the former.


Isn't the adjustable geo only available on the frameset and the XR complete? I know it can be purchased separately, I but haven't seen the need for it yet? Do you have pics of the kit? How does it work?


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## Victor Cristescu (Jun 16, 2016)

Hey there!
I'm currently riding an alloy Foxy R 2016 and I would really want to do an upgrade for 2019. I am after more efficiency and rollover from 29 inch wheels, but I would also appreciate a more compliant fork and rear end. 
I'm a bit worried that the Foxy 29 will be just as harsh-ish as my current rig. 
Any insights from users who had Dunes or Foxys and now got the Foxy 29?
I'm also curious if the relatively high BB on paper feels high on steep descents. 
And what do you guys experienced with coil on the new Foxy?
Right now I'm kind of puzzled if to get a Capra 29 or a Foxy29.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

dubthang said:


> Isn't the adjustable geo only available on the frameset and the XR complete? I know it can be purchased separately, I but haven't seen the need for it yet? Do you have pics of the kit? How does it work?


I'm not at my shop but it's just a couple of offset cups that you install in the steer tube.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Victor Cristescu said:


> Hey there!
> I'm currently riding an alloy Foxy R 2016 and I would really want to do an upgrade for 2019. I am after more efficiency and rollover from 29 inch wheels, but I would also appreciate a more compliant fork and rear end.
> I'm a bit worried that the Foxy 29 will be just as harsh-ish as my current rig.
> Any insights from users who had Dunes or Foxys and now got the Foxy 29?
> ...


I only demoed a stock Foxy 29 1 day before I picked up my own frameset.

The demo bike suspension was really harsh. But for my own Foxy 29 I had purchased my own suspension and had it revalved by Avalanche Racing. The suspension is beautiful front and rear. The rear end seemed a bit more firm/ supportive than my previous Yeti 5.5, which feels just perfect.

I never rode on the stock coil shock that came on mine. I really wanted to but needed to be able to sell it as a new take off. The guy that bought it in the UK maybe can report back on it's performance compared to his DPX air shock as I know he lurks here. I'm sure the coil really sucks up trail chatter but also lacks big hit capability. Which may not matter to you.

As far as efficiency and roll over goes, the Foxy 29 is positively outstanding in this regard. I love the efficiency, what a difference!

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## Victor Cristescu (Jun 16, 2016)

Suns_PSD said:


> The demo bike suspension was really harsh. But for my own Foxy 29 I had purchased my own suspension and had it revalved by Avalanche Racing. The suspension is beautiful front and rear. The rear end seemed a bit more firm/ supportive than my previous Yeti 5.5, which feels just perfect.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


I am really curious what that revalving actually means, and if I could do that at my LBS or service in Romania. The last thing I want after such a purchase is a harsh ride. Actually, that's from what I'm trying to run from. 
I would go for the XR alloy, with Lyrik up front and swap the coil for a super deluxe.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Victor Cristescu said:


> I am really curious what that revalving actually means, and if I could do that at my LBS or service in Romania. The last thing I want after such a purchase is a harsh ride. Actually, that's from what I'm trying to run from.
> I would go for the XR alloy, with Lyrik up front and swap the coil for a super deluxe.


Revalving is a very common process on motorcycles. Just about any race prepped motorcycle is going to be revalved.

On a MTB, these shocks are off the shelf units that either have a soft/ medium/ or hard valving stack. The valving stack is in the simplest terms, a set of orifices that oil is forced through to control the rate at which the shock moves. This is the manufacturer getting as close as they can at a very reasonable price. After all Fox is not going to custom tune shocks for specific applications, size bikes, and needs. Even if they could the cost would be outrageous. They are not in the business of creating unlimited part numbers after all, hard to make money doing that.

Since Avalanche (there might be Euro equivalents) manufacturers new internal components, and has testing equipment, this is not something a bike shop can replicate. If they say they can, I'd question them.

I don't know if the Foxy demo with the air shock I rode was just set in a manner that I didn't like, or if they all ride like that stock.

If I lived in Romania and $$ wasn't such a big issue, I'd assess my riding preferences. If you ride tons of chunder but aren't concerned with drops over say 4' or significant jumps, I'd order the Coil XR and be done. Or they have a real nice aftermarket Coil shock in Europe (name escapes me) that has a hydraulic bottom out control, that would be amazing on the Foxy imo. In that case you could just buy the R version, and order whatever shock you wanted.

You also have the option of tracking down a shock in the USA, having it shipped directly to Avy, then having them send it to you.

I think you will be fine with the stock forks, but you can ride whatever the bike comes with and just start working on getting the shock you want.

Good luck!


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## Victor Cristescu (Jun 16, 2016)

Suns_PSD said:


> Revalving is a very common process on motorcycles. Just about any race prepped motorcycle is going to be revalved.
> 
> On a MTB, these shocks are off the shelf units that either have a soft/ medium/ or hard valving stack. The valving stack is in the simplest terms, a set of orifices that oil is forced through to control the rate at which the shock moves. This is the manufacturer getting as close as they can at a very reasonable price. After all Fox is not going to custom tune shocks for specific applications, size bikes, and needs. Even if they could the cost would be outrageous. They are not in the business of creating unlimited part numbers after all, hard to make money doing that.
> 
> ...


 Thanks so much for your thorough explanation. Really appreciated. 
Yeah, I'm more concerned on small to medium bump compliance, as I don't do that much jumps, only on the small side and negligible in number, that's why I would go for the coil. 
On the other hand, I do some bike trips a few times a year, that require me to ride with a larger backpack instead of my usual hip pack, and that adds quite some weight which might make me move to a harder spring. The thing is that it seems rather complicated to do that every now and then.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Order the XR, you'll love it. Don't worry about changing the spring. 
If you find faults, work on getting a killer air shock at your own pace. 

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Turns out my rear rim had taken a pretty good hit and was warped and I broke a spoke as well. That might have been the sole cause of my rear tire rub.

Hit a 5' to flat drop today 2x, totally plush landing. However my shock O-ring was nearing it's limit.

Absolutely adore this bike as I've never covered ground this fast. So confidence inspiring.










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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> Turns out my rear rim had taken a pretty good hit and was warped and I broke a spoke as well. That might have been the sole cause of my rear tire rub.
> 
> Hit a 5' to flat drop today 2x, totally plush landing. However my shock O-ring was nearing it's limit.
> 
> ...


Hey, if you bottom and don't notice you're setup is money.

Good review, quite accurate. He's right about the disappointing builds for the money. The frame is also pretty expensive but worth it.

I've moved my 2.4 DHR II WT to the rear and put a 2.5 DHF WT on the front. If you put grip over rolling resistance this is a great combo on the Foxy. It doesn't roll terribly but it's not like it's on Aspens.

I PR climbs and flat segments every time out. It suprised me for sure. Faster than my former Scott Spark 29 which shocked me.

It's not exactly an enduro race bike as the LR may not be progressive enough. Could it race enduro? Absolutely and I will race it next season. It's certainly more than a trail bike. It's exactly the bike I'd hope to own.


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## embi (Nov 26, 2018)

Got the Foxy 29 R too! It is a great bike, though it has some issues... I really don't like the rear tire clearance. I'm also thinking about bumping the fork travel to 170mm... Anyone tried that?


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## Victor Cristescu (Jun 16, 2016)

Did anyone had the chance to compare the Foxy 29 to a Capra29 or Ransom? 
I heard that the Ransom is much more plush at the rear and just as effective at climbing. 
Really curious to hear from someone who has ridden them.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Victor Cristescu said:


> Did anyone had the chance to compare the Foxy 29 to a Capra29 or Ransom?
> I heard that the Ransom is much more plush at the rear and just as effective at climbing.
> Really curious to hear from someone who has ridden them.


I wonder who you heard that from? I mean there's not many people that have ridden either of these bikes so there is probably not a lot of people that have ridden both.

My impression however is that yes the Ransom, when the suspension lockout is engaged will climb every bit as well as the Foxy. And when it's unlocked, it's going to be more plush.

You have to decide if your riding is it constant up, down, up, down? Or is it one long up and then 1 long down. That would be the determining factor for me. I simply don't have any interest in locking out suspension with the riding we do where I'm located.

For me, the sizing on the Foxy alone was sort of a deal closer. The fact that the geometry is dialed, it climbs amazing, the ground clearance, and even the looks, hit all my sweet spots. I'm not going back to something an inch shorter. Ever.

Good luck.

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

> I'm not going back to something an inch shorter. Ever.


That's what she said. :smilewinkgrin:


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## xavierp (Jan 18, 2011)

Victor Cristescu said:


> Did anyone had the chance to compare the Foxy 29 to a Capra29 or Ransom?
> I heard that the Ransom is much more plush at the rear and just as effective at climbing.
> Really curious to hear from someone who has ridden them.


 Nick, streetdoctor, has, I'll tell him to come give his impressions.


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## Streetdoctor (Oct 14, 2011)

Victor Cristescu said:


> Did anyone had the chance to compare the Foxy 29 to a Capra29 or Ransom?
> I heard that the Ransom is much more plush at the rear and just as effective at climbing.
> Really curious to hear from someone who has ridden them.


I demo'ed a Foxy29 pretty extensively and ended up with a Ransom. The ransom is way more plush! The cool thing about the ransom is you can put it in "traction mode" with the touch of your thumb and climb and descend in this setting without issue if your trails don't dictate a full 170/170 travel. Traction mode reduces travel to 120mm and while in 120mm the bike still feels "good". You also have an option of full lock out but I don't really find that necessary.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Oh yah, I forgot SD has ridden both!

SD, you went with the Ransom primarily because of the rear LR, and your speed and size really required more a progressive LR correct than the Foxy provided? I recall you said you set some PRs on the Foxy. I'm sure you are hitting more on the Ransom now as well..

I dig the Ransom a LOT. I just don't want a 170 bike for what amounts to 3 sec to 5 min MAX descents (and literally just a handful of those) around here. It's mostly roll in to a 25' canyon/ gully, go up the other side, and the trail follows the canyon and does this over and over with a lot of climbing. That's a central TX trail. With most descends probably averaging no more than 10 seconds, it's just too brief to change suspension settings, even if it's just a switch on the bars.


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## mrFreelancer (Apr 25, 2017)

Holy crap! Look how paper thin that top tube looks? Beautiful geo, but just from a side view perspective, looks like I can easily snap that tube.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

mrFreelancer said:


> Holy crap! Look how paper thin that top tube looks? Beautiful geo, but just from a side view perspective, looks like I can easily snap that tube.


Lol.

I don't think you realize how forces act upon that upper rail. It's also solid, whereas tubular rails are hollow. 
The frame has a lifetime warranty. 
I'm not worried.

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## mrFreelancer (Apr 25, 2017)

Suns_PSD said:


> Lol.
> 
> I don't think you realize how forces act upon that upper rail. It's also solid, whereas tubular rails are hollow.
> The frame has a lifetime warranty.
> ...


Ya, I don't know the forces on upper rails or of good and evil, but regardless, I was just being facetious


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Streetdoctor said:


> I demo'ed a Foxy29 pretty extensively and ended up with a Ransom. The ransom is way more plush! The cool thing about the ransom is you can put it in "traction mode" with the touch of your thumb and climb and descend in this setting without issue if your trails don't dictate a full 170/170 travel. Traction mode reduces travel to 120mm and while in 120mm the bike still feels "good". You also have an option of full lock out but I don't really find that necessary.


It would seem that the more likely comparison would be the Genius-Foxy or the Dune-Ransom. I've owned the latest Genius, it's what I had before getting the Foxy. The Foxy feels better in nearly every regard. The Genius is more progressive and feels a tiny bit more plush but it's mush less efficient. The geo on the Foxy is absolutely perfect for my needs. I haven't ridden a Ransom but I'd imagine it feels like a big Genius based on the reports I've read. I'm sure its amazing and extremely versatile.

The Foxy probably isn't the bike for everyone. The fact that I've PR'd every section of trail that I've ridden on the Foxy by a decent margin tells me that it's the bike for me. From trail rides to long climbs with long fast and technical descents, PRs on everything. Has me wondering how a Dune rides...


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## Victor Cristescu (Jun 16, 2016)

Less efficient in what way? Does it bob under power that much even in "traction" mode?
Honestly, I wanted a Foxy 29, as I'm currently riding a Foxy 275, but under no way would I consider it an upgrade, if it would be even harsher at the back end than my current rig. I'm after something more forgiving, and if the Ransom is that, then I might just buy it. 
I might miss how the Mondraker climbs under power, but if the downhills are better, than I'm willing to sacrifice a bit.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Here is the input I'll offer:

1) The stock Foxy I rode was harsh, front and rear. But it was also set up by a Pro Enduro Racer, that might have been the issue. Cause even the new Fox 36 felt quite harsh and that's independent of the bike. Also, on the demo ride, the bike bobbed what I considered excessive. I could actually look at the seat stays in relation to the seat tube and see them moving with every pedal stroke which I was surprised by, and took note of. Literally the demo bike tired me out after a 45 minute ride as it was so harsh. Also the demo bike was sort of an average spec whereas my Yeti was a top line build with Cf wheels, etc.

2) I've only ridden my own Foxy with the Avy modified Superdeluxe. It's more firm/ holds the bike up better than my Yeti 5.5 with an Avy X2 and RWC bearings by a bit. I'd say the rear suspension plushness on my Foxy feels close to how many other bikes I have ridden stock feel, like the new Mach 6, the new Bronson, the Ripmo, HT, etc... But it's not harsh at all like the demo bike was and it's dramatically more comfortable. It does not bob at all when being pedaled. So to summarize, it feels much less harsh than the demo ride, yet also has a much better pedaling platform. I love descending on the bike and I love the way it turns and fits. But the way it pedals is what really allows me to cover miles notably faster.

3) I don't Strava for a few reasons. Mainly I use my phone so much when riding anyways (music, running my business, unlocking my car) that I can't take an additional drain on the battery. As a business owner I have to stop and deal with dumb questions which would interrupt segments. So I don't have my ride times on my local trails. HOWEVER, I am MUCH faster on the Foxy than I was on my well loved Yeti 5.5. It's not even close. It's noticeable to me, it's noticeable to my riding buddies. I'm literally flying up stuff that I was poking up before.

I really thought when I ordered the Foxy 29 that I already had an amazing bicycle in the Yeti and that all I was gaining was a better fit and that it was essentially a lateral move for thousands of dollars. Really I just was in the mood for a new bike but told myself I was just wasting money. I also didn't even order my Foxy until I had closed a deal on a used Superdeluxe to go on the bike as I didn't like the OEM shock options.

Then I read the PB review just days after I gave my non-refundable deposit and was pleased to read that ML thought the bike pedaled really well. I knew Mondrakers had a rep as good pedalers and this was also a factor in my bike order. I was excited about the prospect that it might improve my pedaling performance over the heralded SI. ML also reiterated that it gave a lot of confidence on the steep gnar descents which is always a plus and something else I could use.

But then I rode my own Foxy 29 and realized it was actually a tremendous improvement all around. It did require a 3-4 ride learning curve to really get it to turn the way I needed it to. But this bike made me a MUCH faster rider over my Yeti 5.5.

I started about 5 years ago on an '08 26" Ibis. It was a fine bike to start on. I then moved to a Gen 1 Bronson. That bike only did one thing better than the Ibis, it gave me confidence on steep gnar. I then moved to the Yeti and it was a faster bike, but the position on it negatively effected my steep gnar descending abilities. But overall I was faster. Well the Foxy has that low back feeling the Bronson had giving me lots of confidence, while pedaling considerably better than the Yeti.


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## Victor Cristescu (Jun 16, 2016)

Suns_PSD said:


> Here is the input I'll offer:
> 
> 1) The stock Foxy I rode was harsh, front and rear. But it was also set up by a Pro Enduro Racer, that might have been the issue. Cause even the new Fox 36 felt quite harsh and that's independent of the bike. Also, on the demo ride, the bike bobbed what I considered excessive. I could actually look at the seat stays and see them moving with every pedal stroke which I was surprised by, and took note of. Literally the demo bike tired me out after a 45 minute ride as it was so harsh. Also the demo bike was sort of an average spec whereas my Yeti was a top line build with Cf wheels, etc.
> 
> ...


Man, I really appreciate your thorough comment, it really helps. 
What frame size do you have @ what height?


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Victor Cristescu said:


> Less efficient in what way? Does it bob under power that much even in "traction" mode?
> Honestly, I wanted a Foxy 29, as I'm currently riding a Foxy 275, but under no way would I consider it an upgrade, if it would be even harsher at the back end than my current rig. I'm after something more forgiving, and if the Ransom is that, then I might just buy it.
> I might miss how the Mondraker climbs under power, but if the downhills are better, than I'm willing to sacrifice a bit.


I'd say the Ransom or Dune would be your best bet if DH Performance is the absolute most important thing for you. In the traction setting the bike doesn't bob excessively but I got tired of messing with the switching of the suspension on rides. The Foxy puts the power down more effectively.

Every bike will sacrifice one thing for another. It's just a fact of life unfortunately.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Victor Cristescu said:


> Man, I really appreciate your thorough comment, it really helps.
> What frame size do you have @ what height?


I'm 5'11" with longish arms/ legs on a size Large, I have my seat as far back as the lines on the rails allow it to go, run a 35mm stem about slammed, 40mm rise bar, and have a 175mm KS Lev Ci dropper. The distance from the top of my pedals to the top of my seat is (EDITED) 36". The fit is beautiful. It's the first bike that feels 'normal' to me. I always felt a bit awkward on my other bicycles. I had to run a 60mm stem on my L Yeti 5.5 and it still felt short front to back.

If you are anywhere near Central TX, you can ride the thing. I know these are huge investments and these bikes aren't exactly common.


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## Victor Cristescu (Jun 16, 2016)

Suns_PSD said:


> I'm 5'11" with longish arms/ legs on a size Large, I have my seat as far back as the lines on the rails allow it to go, run a 35mm stem about slammed, 40mm rise bar, and have a 175mm KS Lev Ci dropper. The distance from the top of my pedals to the top of my seat is 33". The fit is beautiful. It's the first bike that feels 'normal' to me. I always felt a bit awkward on my other bicycles. I had to run a 60mm stem on my L Yeti 5.5 and it still felt short front to back.
> 
> If you are anywhere near Central TX, you can ride the thing. I know these are huge investments and these bikes aren't exactly common.


I'm about 5'10", so a medium Mondraker is great for me, but unlike you, I have my seat as far forward and tilted downwards, for better climbing. 
Thanks for the invite, but I live on the other side of the ocean


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## Victor Cristescu (Jun 16, 2016)

I think I'll demo both the Ransom and the Foxy 29 before I'll make up my mind. 
For me the sizing issue isn't that big of a deal, since I'm not that tall, and I'm in between sizes, so if I'm currently riding an M sized Mondraker with about 475 reach and a 30mm stem, If I'll buy a Capra of Ransom, I'll just get an L, which are a bit a shorter, at 465 mm, but with a 40mm stem and given a longer chainstay and a slacker head angle, I'm ok with that.


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## Victor Cristescu (Jun 16, 2016)

GearTech said:


> I'd say the Ransom or Dune would be your best bet if DH Performance is the absolute most important thing for you. In the traction setting the bike doesn't bob excessively but I got tired of messing with the switching of the suspension on rides. The Foxy puts the power down more effectively.
> 
> Every bike will sacrifice one thing for another. It's just a fact of life unfortunately.


Well, my rides usually consist of pretty long climbs, so it is important for me to conserve energy on the climbs, and I also appreciate traction on techy climbs, but the thing that drives me towards an upgrade is DH performance foremost.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

So you’re going to compare the downhill performance of a 150mm bike to a 170mm bike? Want me to save you some time?

Perhaps you should try out a Dune, Ransom, and Foxy?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

It's just a sick bicycle. Where I ride I have to pedal a LOT and usually under very challenging circumstances, followed by drops and chunk. The Foxy 29 just excels at this stuff allowing me to maintain a notably faster overall pace, while giving me newfound confidence in the steep stuff.

So pleased overall with this purchase.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

This new EXT Stevia coil shock with the seperate hydraulic bottom out control sure sounds nice for this bike. 

I slid my seat forward to try and get some additional angle on the seat tube and did a 15 mile ride like that. Flat didn't like it. My quads hurt and I didn't feel as powerful. I really feel that these really steep seat tube angles are getting a bit much. I would not want any steeper of a seat tube than I have currently on the Foxy. 

Rode an SB130 today on pavement up a hill. It's not as efficient as the Foxy and both myself and the owner of the Yeti agreed, even though this Yeti had a much stiffer shock as it's owner outweighs me by 65#. It felt like a lot of bike, like a bit more bike than my Yeti 5.5. No real riding or time to adjust so hard to say for certain, but I also found the steering very floppy with that slack of a front end. 

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> I slid my seat forward to try and get some additional angle on the seat tube and did a 15 mile ride like that. Flat didn't like it. My quads hurt and I didn't feel as powerful. I really feel that these really steep seat tube angles are getting a bit much. I would not want any steeper of a seat tube than I have currently on the Foxy.


I think you'd just need to ride it more to develop the other muscles used. This is how triathletes ride. Not saying it's better, just that it's different.


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## sean44 (Dec 10, 2018)

What sizes are people running? At 188cm I’m between sizes and wondered which way I should go.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I'm 5'11" on a large with a 35mm stem. If I had my druther's I'd want the bike 5-10mm longer so that I could run my seat a bit further forward and run the included 30mm stem and still be comfortable. 

I'd lay out the dimensions of your current bike, add consideration for how you currently locate your seat, what length stem you run compared to the 30mm the Foxy is designed to utilize, and consider what you would prefer changed dimensionally compared to your current bike to decide between the L or XL Foxy.

I'd for sure take the XL at 188 cm but what I prefer and the way i'm shaped could be a lot different than you. 


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

sean44 said:


> What sizes are people running? At 188cm I'm between sizes and wondered which way I should go.


5' 8.5" on a medium. My inseam is about 29". My bike is currently stock, but will be switching to a higher rise handlebar to increase the stack.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Taking a look at the -1 headset cups that came with my XR frame set, it appears I'd have to tap out the stock headset, and press in the -1 kit? Which I guess is no big deal but not certain if it's risky to go back and forth on this several times. Stretching out the frame or something.

I have zero complaints about how this bike performs, however as I look at literally every other brand new top end cutting edge Enduro type bike, I see that they all have head angles from 64-65.5 degrees. Wondering if the Foxy makes due without the negative effects of a super slack front end by virtue of having a longer front center, making the extra slackness redundant? Or if there might be some additional performance to be gained by dropping the Foxy to a -65 front end, while simultaneously making the seat angle .3 degrees steeper and dropping the BB by 3mm?

Thoughts on this?


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

With most headsets (or cups) that adjust the angle, it is best to use the correct tool so that they line up correctly. I wouldn't worry about the frame as long as it is done correctly.

I have no idea if a slacker front end would be of benefit. I've ridden a few bikes that are slightly more slack, but it makes the trails I ride slightly harder due to their tightness.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

dubthang said:


> I think you'd just need to ride it more to develop the other muscles used. This is how triathletes ride. Not saying it's better, just that it's different.


I think you are correct as seemingly I'm warming up to having the seat further forward. Was paying attention to where I was ending up and I'm really forward on the seat when climbing. The issue is that, the bike feels too short with the seat forward! LOL

I'm going to install the -1 headset cups this week, roll the bars forward, and try the seat as far forward as I can get it.

It's going to drop my BB about 3mm which is small enough of a difference that I don't think I'll mind much (maybe I'll prefer it?), it will steepen my STA .3 degree putting me around 75.8 degrees before considering the seat slid forward. It will also decrease my Reach by a few mm which I definitely don't like, but I'll try to make up for it by rolling the bars forward. And of course the head tube angle will now be 65 degrees.

If I don't like it, I'll definitely report back.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I installed the included -1 headset and had my first ride on it today. 

It was really cool to try that sole change in isolation. Anyways, I had an exceptional ride today, really felt one with the bike. Didn't think the bike could feel 'perfect-er' but it did today. It's not a giant change, but in all the bike felt a bit more stable/ confidence inspiring, turned freakin great, had mad front wheel traction (I have notably more weight on my hands now, enough that it was tiring at times), was unstoppable in the chunk, the slightly steeper seat angle was noticeable and appreciated, and I did whack my pedals several times today (maybe 10x where 4x is more typical on this ride) but felt particularly fast in sweeping turns. 

At this time, I won't be going back. If I did more tight, slower riding, I'd consider moving the bike back to the stock headset. 

I had 5 PRs and a top 10 but not sure that means much since this is literally my 2nd time ever using Strava. I see how it's addictive. 

Love this bike. 

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## Foxy87 (Aug 4, 2016)

Is there something I get wrong?

If you put the -1 HA from 66 to 65, doesnt this also slackens the STA and not steepen it? Plus you should get less weight on the front wheel so less traction and not more...?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

The -1 headset actually lowers the front end of the bike. Think about it. 

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## Foxy87 (Aug 4, 2016)

Right, its not the same as slackening the hta by traveling to a longer fork.
Sorry, my bad


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> I installed the included -1 headset and had my first ride on it today.
> 
> It was really cool to try that sole change in isolation. Anyways, I had an exceptional ride today, really felt one with the bike. Didn't think the bike could feel 'perfect-er' but it did today. It's not a giant change, but in all the bike felt a bit more stable/ confidence inspiring, turned freakin great, had mad front wheel traction (I have notably more weight on my hands now, enough that it was tiring at times), was unstoppable in the chunk, the slightly steeper seat angle was noticeable and appreciated, and I did whack my pedals several times today (maybe 10x where 4x is more typical on this ride) but felt particularly fast in sweeping turns.
> 
> ...


Very interesting. I wonder if the cups are available separately?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> Very interesting. I wonder if the cups are available separately?


I'd imagine it's a Mondraker 'part' that can be ordered from someone, somewhere. It's just two metal rings.

There are also aftermarket options, Cane Creek (which tend to creak) and some others.

Knowing what I know now, I'd spend $120 or less for this change, for certain.


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## choan (May 6, 2016)

GearTech said:


> So you're going to compare the downhill performance of a 150mm bike to a 170mm bike? Want me to save you some time?
> 
> Perhaps you should try out a Dune, Ransom, and Foxy?


Well since the ransom blur the line between all mountain and enduro, it's fair to put him in the balance when you choose a new bike.

Everyone should try it i guess since you have a 120mm firm bike going uphill and a 170mm plush going down. With the twinlock we can have the best of both world.

But people have to try it to see if its fit.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Is it true that the Ransom doesn't have bash guard mounts?
If so, I'd be hiking back to the truck, or hiking around trail obstacles, nearly every ride on that thing. 
Surprised that doesn't rule it out for, well pretty much everyone. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## mrallen (Oct 11, 2017)

Yep, no ICSG tabs and a PF bottom bracket. Immediate disqualification for our terrain IMO. Such a simple thing to include too.


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## choan (May 6, 2016)

thanks god you can put a bottle inside the frame...


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

I went from a Spark AND Genius to a the Foxy 29, I owned both bikes at the same time. Twinloc is handy but I find the efficiency of the Zero suspension to be better. I don’t have to worry about which setting I should be in and I don’t have the additional cables. They’re good bikes and I’m sure the ransom is great. I prefer the Foxy 29 to the Scott’s and my times confirm why.


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## Victor Cristescu (Jun 16, 2016)

GearTech said:


> I went from a Spark AND Genius to a the Foxy 29, I owned both bikes at the same time. Twinloc is handy but I find the efficiency of the Zero suspension to be better. I don't have to worry about which setting I should be in and I don't have the additional cables. They're good bikes and I'm sure the ransom is great. I prefer the Foxy 29 to the Scott's and my times confirm why.


Interesting. 
Can you shed some light on how the rear end of the Foxy works compared to the Scott? 
Is the Foxy that harsh as they say?


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Victor Cristescu said:


> Interesting.
> Can you shed some light on how the rear end of the Foxy works compared to the Scott?
> Is the Foxy that harsh as they say?


It depends... The DPX2 is not the best shock for this bike IMO and as others have mentioned it is not progressive so it doesn't have the sofa like ride or extreme bottom out resistance that some bikes have. I don't find it overly harsh, perhaps it gives more feedback through the back wheel than other bikes. It does feel a little more plush with the Float X2 that I have on there now.

Compared to the Genius on 29s I feel like I know what's under me more with the Foxy but the Foxy has proven to be faster everywhere and it definitely doesn't lack traction. I'm constantly PRing uphill and downhill sections with the Foxy vs the Genius. The suspension just puts the power down more efficiently than the Scott's do. The cost of this is more trail feedback I suppose. The funny thing is, the small bump sensitivity is great, it's more the higher speed medium bumps where it feels slightly less plush. It's not an "ouch" kind of feeling, more of an "oh" where a super plush bike would be an "ahhh" if that makes sense. It's more of a "those bumps were damped" vs "those bumps were non-existent" in other words. Comparing the Genius to the Foxy on suspension feel alone the Genius is a bit more plush so I'd imagine the Ransom is even more so. If I were interested in a bigger bike like the Ransom I'd be more inclined to get a Nomad or a Dune though.

Are there times I wish the bike was more plush or progressive? Sure, but not nearly often enough for me to want to sacrifice all of the other amazing ride qualities this bike has.


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## Victor Cristescu (Jun 16, 2016)

GearTech said:


> It depends... The DPX2 is not the best shock for this bike IMO and as others have mentioned it is not progressive so it doesn't have the sofa like ride or extreme bottom out resistance that some bikes have. I don't find it overly harsh, perhaps it gives more feedback through the back wheel than other bikes. It does feel a little more plush with the Float X2 that I have on there now.
> 
> Compared to the Genius on 29s I feel like I know what's under me more with the Foxy but the Foxy has proven to be faster everywhere and it definitely doesn't lack traction. I'm constantly PRing uphill and downhill sections with the Foxy vs the Genius. The suspension just puts the power down more efficiently than the Scott's do. The cost of this is more trail feedback I suppose. The funny thing is, the small bump sensitivity is great, it's more the higher speed medium bumps where it feels slightly less plush. It's not an "ouch" kind of feeling, more of an "oh" where a super plush bike would be an "ahhh" if that makes sense. It's more of a "those bumps were damped" vs "those bumps were non-existent" in other words. Comparing the Genius to the Foxy on suspension feel alone the Genius is a bit more plush so I'd imagine the Ransom is even more so. If I were interested in a bigger bike like the Ransom I'd be more inclined to get a Nomad or a Dune though.
> 
> Are there times I wish the bike was more plush or progressive? Sure, but not nearly often enough for me to want to sacrifice all of the other amazing ride qualities this bike has.


Thanks so much for the details!
If I where to stick with the Foxy, it would definitely be the alloy XR version, and I would most probably swap the coil shock for the equivalent super deluxe, just because I couldn't fathom the ideea of carying springs with me on longer rides, with a backpack. 
I am quite familiarised with the efficiency of the Foxy line-up, since I ride a 27,5 one, and I'm happy with the climbing ability, but it's exactly in the descent department, mainly the more choppy, rugged sections at speed that unease the back end, and make me wish for something more plush. At first I thought that the Foxy 29 will be more plush, but then the reviews kept pouring in and I felt a bit discouraged, looking elsewhere, and that's how my research took me to the Ransom, given the fact that it's plusher and that it has the twinlock, but it didn't convince me 100% either, given the poor spec on the 920 version and the huge 480mm seat tube on the Large frame.
So I'm still torn between these 2 options.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> It depends... The DPX2 is not the best shock for this bike IMO and as others have mentioned it is not progressive so it doesn't have the sofa like ride or extreme bottom out resistance that some bikes have. I don't find it overly harsh, perhaps it gives more feedback through the back wheel than other bikes. It does feel a little more plush with the Float X2 that I have on there now.
> 
> Compared to the Genius on 29s I feel like I know what's under me more with the Foxy but the Foxy has proven to be faster everywhere and it definitely doesn't lack traction. I'm constantly PRing uphill and downhill sections with the Foxy vs the Genius. The suspension just puts the power down more efficiently than the Scott's do. The cost of this is more trail feedback I suppose. The funny thing is, the small bump sensitivity is great, it's more the higher speed medium bumps where it feels slightly less plush. It's not an "ouch" kind of feeling, more of an "oh" where a super plush bike would be an "ahhh" if that makes sense. It's more of a "those bumps were damped" vs "those bumps were non-existent" in other words. Comparing the Genius to the Foxy on suspension feel alone the Genius is a bit more plush so I'd imagine the Ransom is even more so. If I were interested in a bigger bike like the Ransom I'd be more inclined to get a Nomad or a Dune though.
> 
> Are there times I wish the bike was more plush or progressive? Sure, but not nearly often enough for me to want to sacrifice all of the other amazing ride qualities this bike has.


I think you described the Foxy rear suspension performance well. I can feel the trail but it's never harsh or anything. And the bike has mad climbing traction. I'm running less grippy but considerably faster rolling tires (new HD soft with Pepi noodle, compared to Aggr 2.5 b4) and the bike easily out climbs my SB5.5. Not just in efficiency but traction is also great. I'm clearing lots of stuff I could not before.

I have an Avy tuned Superdeluxe, and I'd consider it perfect. Also Shockwiz considers it perfect as well. It feels firm and supportive, but never harsh or chattery.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Victor Cristescu said:


> Thanks so much for the details!
> If I where to stick with the Foxy, it would definitely be the alloy XR version, and I would most probably swap the coil shock for the equivalent super deluxe, just because I couldn't fathom the ideea of carying springs with me on longer rides, with a backpack.
> I am quite familiarised with the efficiency of the Foxy line-up, since I ride a 27,5 one, and I'm happy with the climbing ability, but it's exactly in the descent department, mainly the more choppy, rugged sections at speed that unease the back end, and make me wish for something more plush. At first I thought that the Foxy 29 will be more plush, but then the reviews kept pouring in and I felt a bit discouraged, looking elsewhere, and that's how my research took me to the Ransom, given the fact that it's plusher and that it has the twinlock, but it didn't convince me 100% either, given the poor spec on the 920 version and the huge 480mm seat tube on the Large frame.
> So I'm still torn between these 2 options.


It sucks that the shocks chosen by Mondraker, really are not ideal for the bike for most users. (a rocky trail rider with no jumps would be well served with the OEM coil shock imo) You hate to add additional cost to such an expensive bike, however I sold my Foxy take off shock for $525 almost immediately, and never even listed it for sale. You can get some of that money back. The XR frameset only cost another $150 I think, and you have a shock that should sell for more money, and you get the offset cups too.

If you wanted a coil shock I think the bike would be amazing with the EXT shock with the separate Hydraulic bottom out damper control. It barely even weighs more than a Superdeluxe. If money were no object, I'd have one. And still might if good ride reports pop up around here.

The other option is to find a take off Superdeluxe off of a Spartan 27.5 and send it to Avy, which is what I did.

As far as the Ransom: Well it's an inch shorter in a large than the Foxy which would put me back on to a 60mm+ stem (which is another problem cause you can't just swap the stem on the Ransom!). No ISO tabs is a fatal flaw. But also my trails are so undulating I'd be throwing that Twinlock switch honestly 1000x per ride if I really wanted an ideal pedaling & descending bike the entire time. That's out of the question for me.

If I lived somewhere not nearly as chunky, and I could pedal up for 45 minutes, then descend for 20, I'd be all over the Ransom.


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## Victor Cristescu (Jun 16, 2016)

What do you guys think of the Foxy 29 Bible of Bikes test?
https://www.bikemag.com/gear/mountain-bikes/review-mondraker-foxy-29-carbon-rr/


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Victor Cristescu said:


> What do you guys think of the Foxy 29 Bible of Bikes test?
> https://www.bikemag.com/gear/mountain-bikes/review-mondraker-foxy-29-carbon-rr/


Interesting review. I agree that the bike is not a value purchase. It is a lot of cash for something with low level parts draped on it. It works for me in that I have several other bikes laying around that could use some trickle down parts as things get upgraded.

That said, I don't totally agree with their ride report. Yes, the bike is a downhill missile. It wants and begs to go faster (and it will because the brakes on my R spec suck). Yes, the suspension is not a magic carpet ride, but also yes in that it maintains traction incredibly well. They talk about breaking through the firmness of the rear end while riding, but I don't really notice it that much. Also, a quick push down on the pedals can easily prime the suspension to be more plush when needed.

As for turning, I only notice an issue on really fast berms. I haven't quite figured out the proper way to get around berms smoothly with this thing. I agree that more weight over the front makes things easier, but I find that doesn't hold true for turns that aren't bermed. I have not had the front end wash out on me yet. I have had the front end wander quite a bit when exiting a berm as my weight shifts backward requiring greater steering input to get it back on track. This bike turns way better by using weight and proper leaning. When I am tired, I cannot keep the bike pointed straight on steep uphills. It just requires too much rider input.

I do really enjoy the Foxy. It will be better next season as I make more changes to the setup so that it fits me and my riding style more. It is definitely not a bike for everybody nor is it a quiver killer, but it is massively fun to ride.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I consider myself sort of a Novice rider, as I'm about 4.5 years in to MTBing. However, I shred well above my skill level through the turns, particularly when maintaining momentum is the name of the game. This has only improved on the Foxy for me. 
Any long bike, requires additional body language to get through a turn fast. You can't be a lazy rider. 
For me, going from a pretty short bike, to one of the longest, took about 3-4 rides to get a handle on keeping the front end where it needs to be. It's about weight balance on the chassis, nothing more. 
I find the Foxy to be a superior turning machine by a fair margin. 
Also, that Foxy 29 had a DHRII which I found to have pretty poor lean angle front traction when I tried one. Back to back with a DHF, the DHR wasn't really even close. 
The last thing worth noting is that familiarity matters, A LOT. Most of these test bikes are all, kind of the same. So when a model comes along that really is well outside the standard deviation, well it's going to have to be ridden differently. 



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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I do feel a lot of stiction in the lower shock bearing that creates a bit of break away force. I've not been able to locate a bearing for it, frankly I don't really mind it. 

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

As far as the value, just buy the frameset, your paying a couple hundred more than the other top tier frame-sets. Who cares?

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Okay, another point.  That bike they reviewed, is one of Qarv's (the US mondraker distributor) demo bikes as I recognize the way it's set up. 
The one I rode, had an atrocious rear shock set up. It was so bad. And it had that DHRII up front that I mentioned I really don't like on the demo as well. 

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

This review is exactly what I'd expect from people who haven't spent enough time on the bike. It is an adjustment in body position when cornering. Once you learn this the cornering is unbelievable even on tighter stuff.

I described the suspension earlier, setup is key and those demo bikes might have not had the best setup as discussed previously.

In other news, this Enve M9 handlebar is sick and matches the raw CF of the R frame nicely.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

One advantage of the Float X2 on this bike.















The shock stanchion is better protected.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

It's a small thing but for sure the location of the rear shock and pivot catches leaves and dirt. I like the space it creates in the main triangle, and what it does for the center of gravity of the bike however.

Every design has compromises.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> It's a small thing but for sure the location of the rear shock and pivot catches leaves and dirt. I like the space it creates in the main triangle, and what it does for the center of gravity of the bike however.
> 
> Every design has compromises.


Totally agree. There are bikes with similar shock placement with considerably more exposure to slinging mud. I wonder if some sort of flexible guard could be rigged for super sloppy days?

I also moved my rear mud fender back to the factory installed location. Yeah the clearance is less but it prevents the massive loading up of mud on the lower pivot.


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## RSparkVB4 (Sep 26, 2018)

Hey guys. I am building up my Foxy right now and was just curious on your input since you guys have ride time on it. For reference, I am 6'5 with 6'7 wingspan, 240 geared up. My build is frame set with DHX2 w/ 450lb spring (might need 500?), 200mm dropper, 2019 160 Lyrik 42 offset, Spline ex1501 w/ 2.5 dhf and 2.4 DHR, Next r cranks 175m, Sram eagle 12 speed drivetrain... 

Questions:
1)What brakes are you guys running? I can get Code Rs for 200 a set or XT 8020 set for 260. Trying to decide on which and if the stopping power will be ok with Codes or if XT 8020 4 piston would be better for this bike? 
2) What length stem are you running or feel best with? The recommend 30 or have you tried 40 or 50 with any degree rise? Was thinking of a 40 or 50 for my height but dont want to change how the bike would handle and feel with a longer stem. Would increasing the length of the stem effect weighting the front tire or cause washout?
3)Do you think it would be best to go with a riser 35m bar or 25m bar, based on how the bike sits for you guys with the long reach of the foxy? Would more rise again effect weighting the front? 
4) Anyone else tried the slacker cup? Was talking to Qarv and they said with a 50mm stem and a 42 offset that the slacker 65 HA might be better to keep the bikes original geo. Opinions on this? Ride experience with 65 HA?

Stoked to get this built up in the next week or so but interested in opinions on people who have built theirs and if they could go back and make changes in purchase what would they do differently or reccomend? Not too happy with how Bible reviewed it!
Thanks in advance!


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

RSparkVB4 said:


> Hey guys. I am building up my Foxy right now and was just curious on your input since you guys have ride time on it. For reference, I am 6'5 with 6'7 wingspan, 240 geared up. My build is frame set with DHX2 w/ 450lb spring (might need 500?), 200mm dropper, 2019 160 Lyrik 42 offset, Spline ex1501 w/ 2.5 dhf and 2.4 DHR, Next r cranks 175m, Sram eagle 12 speed drivetrain...
> 
> Questions:
> 1)What brakes are you guys running? I can get Code Rs for 200 a set or XT 8020 set for 260. Trying to decide on which and if the stopping power will be ok with Codes or if XT 8020 4 piston would be better for this bike?
> ...


I can only be of help on a couple points because our body types couldn't be more different. Fwiw I weigh 215lbs kitted up

4 piston brakes for sure. I'm running Hope Tech 3 e4s with 203mm front and 180mm rear rotors.

I use a 30mm stem with a 6 degree rise and a 30mm rise handlebar. Even with this I still use 26mm of headset spacers. I don't find it difficult to weight the front with this setup at all and it's much more comfortable than the stock zero rise 30mm stem, 15mm rise bar and 30mm of spacers. With a 42 offset fork I'd stick with a 30mm stem, you don't want to make the steering too lazy.

Don't sweat the Bible review, the bike takes a little time to get used to but once you do everything else seems antiquated.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

RSparkVB4 said:


> Questions:
> 1)What brakes are you guys running? I can get Code Rs for 200 a set or XT 8020 set for 260. Trying to decide on which and if the stopping power will be ok with Codes or if XT 8020 4 piston would be better for this bike?
> 2) What length stem are you running or feel best with? The recommend 30 or have you tried 40 or 50 with any degree rise? Was thinking of a 40 or 50 for my height but dont want to change how the bike would handle and feel with a longer stem. Would increasing the length of the stem effect weighting the front tire or cause washout?
> 3)Do you think it would be best to go with a riser 35m bar or 25m bar, based on how the bike sits for you guys with the long reach of the foxy? Would more rise again effect weighting the front?
> 4) Anyone else tried the slacker cup? Was talking to Qarv and they said with a 50mm stem and a 42 offset that the slacker 65 HA might be better to keep the bikes original geo. Opinions on this? Ride experience with 65 HA?


1) I currently have the stock Sram Guides, and they are garbage. I will be updating to Hope 4 pots. I have Hope M4's on my hardtail, and they are awesome. The new Code RSC brakes get rave reviews, and the Shimano brakes are always solid. Either one would be fine also.

2) I have the stock 30mm OnOff stem.

3) I am switching to a 50mm rise bar to get me a bit more upright.

4) I can't comment on the slacker setup, but the info from Qarv sounds ok. I'd try the 30mm stem first, and then bump it to 40 next if the 30 is too short.

My bike is a medium, and I'm 5'8".


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

RSparkVB4 said:


> Hey guys. I am building up my Foxy right now and was just curious on your input since you guys have ride time on it. For reference, I am 6'5 with 6'7 wingspan, 240 geared up. My build is frame set with DHX2 w/ 450lb spring (might need 500?), 200mm dropper, 2019 160 Lyrik 42 offset, Spline ex1501 w/ 2.5 dhf and 2.4 DHR, Next r cranks 175m, Sram eagle 12 speed drivetrain...
> 
> Questions:
> 1)What brakes are you guys running? I can get Code Rs for 200 a set or XT 8020 set for 260. Trying to decide on which and if the stopping power will be ok with Codes or if XT 8020 4 piston would be better for this bike?
> ...


You are a big boy. IMO, the XL Mondraker with a 40-60mm stem is going to fit you a bit like a traditional bike fits more average sized people, and that's okay. IMO, you would have been better served by an XXL, which they don't make.

The 30mm stem that Mondrakers come with (also included with the frameset) is definitely their idea of a proper fit. But at 5'11" on a Large I run a 35mm stem and it's great. There is nothing wrong with running a more traditional stem length. It's more important to fit your body after all.

As far as bars, I'm a HUGE believer in 40mm rise bars, as are most Pros judging by their set ups. The reason is pretty simple: Because of the angle of the headset you can slide your stem down and this actually extends your Reach as it moves the bars forward. Then you run a tall bar to get the height back as the bars come straight up. You can do the trigonometry and see that gaining half an inch in length is quite easy doing this. At your size I would not consider anything less than 40mm+ rise 35mm Aluminum bars and probably a 50mm Renthal Apex stem. Remember, if your stem is longer you have the ability to slide your seat forward, which is advantageous, especially at your height. I've ridden with a guy that is just about 6'4" on an XL SB130 and he runs a 60mm stem he purchased from me. Is a 60mm stem ideal? No. But the bike fits him well and he hauls ass as a result.

As far as brakes, if I was as large as you, I'd buy those Aaron Gwin brakes because they have insane power and cooling capacity. In fact I'd go heavy duty on all components that I could break or flex, wheels, tires, cranks, etc... With your size the power loss can easily be made up by you.

I am running the 65 degree headset and like it very much. HOWEVER, the Foxy 29 is very stable and fast even at 66 degrees as a factor of it's long front center and it really isn't needed at all. Since installing the headset would reduce Reach notably, at your size it's not a change I would recommend at this time. Also it lowered my BB enough that I hit my 170mm cranks about 2-3x as often as I did before. Because of your size, you need 175 cranks so you are already working with less pedal clearance than me.

It's cool to set up the bike as ideal as possibly and all that, but it being an ideal fit for YOU personally is going to result in the most comfort and speed. So focus on that first and foremost.

Good luck and welcome to the club.


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## RSparkVB4 (Sep 26, 2018)

Thanks for all your replies guys, much appreciated! I will keep everyone updated with my results. Stoked to get to riding it soon.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

For those favoring 40-50mm rise handlebars, what's your grip height compared to saddle height?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Handlebars should always be just below your seat height. 

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> Handlebars should always be just below your seat height.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


I'm not sure that's 100% accurate. As a general rule perhaps but It's highly dependent on body measurements and riding conditions. I have short legs and a long torso. Having my grips lower than my saddle puts me in a very awkward position. Weight balance is the most important factor I suppose.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

ninjichor said:


> For those favoring 40-50mm rise handlebars, what's your grip height compared to saddle height?


I'd have to take a look, and some measurements. I currently don't have 50mm's on my bike, but that is what I'm switching too. My reason is because I would end up in a similar position to my hardtail (Canfield N9). The lower stack height of the Mondraker is hard on my back and neck.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> I'm not sure that's 100% accurate. As a general rule perhaps but It's highly dependent on body measurements and riding conditions. I have short legs and a long torso. Having my grips lower than my saddle puts me in a very awkward position. Weight balance is the most important factor I suppose.


Makes sense if you have shorter than typical arms.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Suns_PSD said:


> I installed the included -1 headset and had my first ride on it today.
> 
> It was really cool to try that sole change in isolation. Anyways, I had an exceptional ride today, really felt one with the bike. Didn't think the bike could feel 'perfect-er' but it did today. It's not a giant change, but in all the bike felt a bit more stable/ confidence inspiring, turned freakin great, had mad front wheel traction (I have notably more weight on my hands now, enough that it was tiring at times), was unstoppable in the chunk, the slightly steeper seat angle was noticeable and appreciated, and I did whack my pedals several times today (maybe 10x where 4x is more typical on this ride) but felt particularly fast in sweeping turns.
> 
> ...


So I have begun to notice a limitation of the -1 headset installed and having a 65 degree head tube angle. 
I'm finding it harder than usual to steer the bike how I want to, when precision really matters. Slow trail speeds, it sort of over reacts to input or sort of flops. It requires more thought. 
I'm sticking with it, because the advantages outweigh this small disadvantage, but it's there. If I had no intention of riding down vertical obstacles often, and taking it to the bike park, I'd choose the 66 degree stock head angle. 
Personally, I think we are getting near the limits of what a good head angle for a trail bike really is by 65.5 or so.

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## linclinc (Jan 10, 2019)

Just wanted to add my 2c to the bike set up debate on here.

I've had a Large RR model for about 4 months - and have ridden/shuttled it like DH bike, with many tech pedal-ups in between. I'm 6'1 and sized down because I'm all arms/legs and short torso - too stretched out on the XL (plus I like to bounce and flick my bikes more than plow)

A few comments:


Adding the slacker cups is a must do. Transforms the bike in many positive ways, with minimal down side.
You'll need higher rise bars - currently running 50mm rise and 30mm of spacers (pro tip - Dartmoor is the ONLY company that does 50mm bars in a 35mm clamp)
You'll need a longer drop seatpost - running the BikeYoke 185mm and it's excellent. Would have bought a 200mm if it was an option though.
Fitting a chainguide is difficult - but possible with some hack-saw modification. I'm running a 34t with a chopped up MRP upper guide.
Add a larger volume token to the DPX2. Earlier in this thread people said that the bike comes with the largest possible token already fitted. This is incorrect. It comes with the largest Token that Fox recommends. You can definitely add a larger one. It fits fine and transforms the rear of the bike. Do it. The kinematics mean you can run low air pressure anyway, so the shock can handle it (I'm 82kg and running ~140psi with a 0.86 blue token)
The lower shock bushing will flog out and start rattling after about 2-months. This sucks. I'm currently trying to come up with a way to fit a needle roller in there. Mondraker really dropped the ball by not putting bearings on that lower link.
The bike sucks up leaves a lot and they buzz between the rear tyre and fender. It's annoying, but not a huge deal.
The rear end flexes - but this feels like a feature, rather than a bug. The ride quality is brilliant.
The yellow colour grows on you over time.

All in all a spectacular bike. Take your time tweaking the set up. Once you get it right this thing is a rocket.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Great tips. Please post what you find on the needle bearing thing. 

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

linclinc said:


> Just wanted to add my 2c to the bike set up debate on here.
> 
> I've had a Large RR model for about 4 months - and have ridden/shuttled it like DH bike, with many tech pedal-ups in between. I'm 6'1 and sized down because I'm all arms/legs and short torso - too stretched out on the XL (plus I like to bounce and flick my bikes more than plow)
> 
> ...


Please expound on the slacker cups comment. how is the bike transformed specifically?

I haven't had an issue with the lower shock bushing but I'll keep an eye on it.

Yes on the leaves, lots of noise. My fender it the front does this too though.

I believe the flex is a design feature. Yes it flexes but it seems to enhance the ride quality as you mentioned.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/exploring-the-relationship-between-handlebar-vs-stem-length.html

Interesting article on Pinkbike about stem and bar combos. I think some of this math is what can lead the Foxy to be overly twitchy when pointed uphill.


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## linclinc (Jan 10, 2019)

GearTech said:


> Please expound on the slacker cups comment. how is the bike transformed specifically?


A lot of this comes down to personal preference and the nature of the trails that you regularly ride. My local trails are rocky, loose and technical. I also come from a DH background, so I'm used to a bike that has the front axle a long way forward of the handlebars.

This said, I found that with the steeper head angle (~66) and the short offset, I kept oversteering in corners - or at least having to ride differently to manage the bike's tendency to oversteer. The 'arc' that the front wheel made around corners just felt tighter than it should be and a bit foreign. The steering also felt too 'light' and twitchy with the steeper head angle and short offet (which is weird, as shorter offset is supposed to make the front track more slowly - but I think the steep head angle overpowers this effect).

Not specific to the bike, but more a point about slack head angles generally, changing to having the axle further ahead of the bars is much more confidence inspiring when: a) riding at low speeds up and over square edged rocks, b) pushing weight onto the front tire in loose corners, c) chopping into rough sections at speed. My local trails have these three things in abundance.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Installed a 150mm 9point8 Fall Line R dropper today. The R is the new lightweight option. I have a medium frame so space is limited for longer dropper posts. The R just barely fits for my height of 5'8". I have a regular 150mm Fall Line as well that I may install for comparison. I do want to point out that I had no issues with the OnOff Pija that came with my Foxy other than it didn't provide enough drop at 125mm. Anybody that wants a bigger dropper on a medium frame, but is my height or shorter will really need to do their research. The lowers on most droppers are far too long to fit far enough into the frame.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

That's great that you have a 150 dropper at 5'8"! I'm on a 175 dropper, at 5'11" on an L, with about 6mm showing. 

For fun I took my time and measured my effective seat tube angle ( w/ the -1 offset). I run my seat absolutely as high and forward as reasonable, however the forward part didn't matter as I measured to the center of the seat post, which just so happens to be right where I suspect the center of my butt weight is. 

Anyways, 76 degree effective seat tube angle on the dot. Honestly sometimes it feels a bit too steep. 

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

At 76 degrees, you are almost on point with the Foxy geo chart for effective seat tube angle. 

As far as too steep, do you feel that to be the case only on descents and flat ground, or with climbing too? I'd assume the angle should feel pretty good when climbing the steep stuff.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Stock the Foxy has a 75.6 degrees STA per the geo chart but the -1 headset should make it 75.9 degrees. 
The 76 I measured is certainly within my margin of error.

The steep seat tube angle is fantastic when climbing steeps, but everywhere else I don't feel as strong when peddaling. My quads are getting more sore as well. I'm still assessing and trying to get use to it. But when the bike was first put together with the 75.6 degrees and my seat also slid back, took absolutely no getting use to. It felt perfect right away. I'm 5-6 rides in at 76 degrees and seat slid forward and it still doesn't feel quite right. When I intentionally slide my arse too far back now, I feel more powerful instantly. 


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## krystof (Jan 17, 2019)

Greetings, has anyone considered running a MRP progressive spring with the DHX on this bike since there seems to be lots of talk of that shock paired with this bike not working well, not progressive enough... 
https://mrpbike.com/products/enduro-progressive-coil-springs


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

krystof said:


> Greetings, has anyone considered running a MRP progressive spring with the DHX on this bike since there seems to be lots of talk of that shock paired with this bike not working well, not progressive enough...
> https://mrpbike.com/products/enduro-progressive-coil-springs


Funny you mention that. I saw MRP's post on IG a few days ago and that was the first thing on my mind. I would probably go with a boutique shock like the MRP Hazzard, Avalanche or something similar.


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## krystof (Jan 17, 2019)

Same here, saw the post and thought of the Foxy. Are you suggesting other shock mfr's other than Fox bcs you don't like how the Fox performs or just don't like Fox?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I like my revalved Superdeluxe air shock on this bike personally, and so does Shockwiz I'll add. 

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## krystof (Jan 17, 2019)

Copy that, I'll look into it.. ty


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

krystof said:


> Same here, saw the post and thought of the Foxy. Are you suggesting other shock mfr's other than Fox bcs you don't like how the Fox performs or just don't like Fox?


I like Fox just fine. I'm running a Float X2 right now and it feels really good.

I like boutique stuff too though. I will probably send the Float X2 to Avalanche for custom valving before moving to a coil though. I do like the finite adjust-ability of air.

On a somewhat related note the bike climbs insanely well with the X2's climb switch engaged. It climbs really well with it open but settles down with the switch engaged. For technical climbs I'd leave it open but I'm doing a fire road, long grinding climb it is just a bit better with the switch engaged.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I had Avy tune Fox 36/ X2 on my old Yeti.

I've got Avy tuned RS on the Foxy.
RS is just a better product.

An interesting note is that Avy used the exact same damping cartridge on my Fox 36 vs. my Yari, yet the feel and Shockwiz results are way different. The Yari shows nearly perfect, with the same results regardless of what terrain or how I ride. The Fox showed a radically different result anytime ride conditions changed. That's all in the air side. 
The X2 would never get right either. Apparently the shaft piston doesn't have enough diameter to shim it correctly, the adjusters are nothing but an orfice with a needle, the HSC blow off isn't shimmed but is nothing but a basic reed valve design, among other design faults. The Superdeluxe is a higher quality piece inside, without the fluff of essentially useless controls on the outside. I will say this, Avalanche can make the Fox suspension work much better.

Of course the problem remains, as of yet RockShox will not sell the Super Deluxe in the size we need. You have to find a take off from a Spartan.

Both my shock and forks get this result on Shockwiz. Ultimately, Craig has a slightly different opinion on what correct high speed valving is.









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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Interesting results. I still have the stock DPX2 on mine. I plan to run it for the upcoming season as it has been fine so far. If I do swap it out, it would probably be for something like the Topaz from DVO.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Anybody running a bash guard with a roller or pulley on it yet? I'm wondering if the extra drag is worth the quieter ride and greater chain retention.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

dubthang said:


> Anybody running a bash guard with a roller or pulley on it yet? I'm wondering if the extra drag is worth the quieter ride and greater chain retention.


Do you mean like a chain retainer above the chainring? They don't fit on the Foxy. The frame bulges out right there. I had an MRP one piece bash guard with a chain retention device from my old bike, and I ended up having to cut the chain guard portion off. I called Qarv when I was putting the bike together and told them what I was encountering and they said they had just heard about this problem for the 1st time the previous day before I called them. They mentioned a specific brand of chain guide that will clear with some modification. I would call them directly to find out if you've got to have one.

Also they are sending out new chain stay protectors that are supposed to be quieter; they're just not ready yet.

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## krystof (Jan 17, 2019)

Noted, thank you for the input 👊


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> Also they are sending out new chain stay protectors that are supposed to be quieter; they're just not ready yet.


Question: Where did you hear this? Where can I get one? When are they due in?

Comment: The Fox Shocks aren't as tune-able from an aftermarket standpoint but they're far from bad. This Float X2 is feeling pretty dialed for me. Are there better options? I'm sure there are. Will I sweat it? Nope...


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> Do you mean like a chain retainer above the chainring? They don't fit on the Foxy. The frame bulges out right there. I had an MRP one piece bash guard with a chain retention device from my old bike, and I ended up having to cut the chain guard portion off. I called Qarv when I was putting the bike together and told them what I was encountering and they said they had just heard about this problem for the 1st time the previous day before I called them. They mentioned a specific brand of chain guide that will clear with some modification. I would call them directly to find out if you've got to have one.
> 
> Also they are sending out new chain stay protectors that are supposed to be quieter; they're just not ready yet.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


No, I mean one where the guide or pulley is below and behind the chain ring.

Like this,


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> Question: Where did you hear this? Where can I get one? When are they due in?
> ..


QARV (the US Mondraker importer) told me. Apparently they're gonna send them to the selling dealers to distribute to the customers. No timeline was given. But they told me this like 2 months ago.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

dubthang said:


> No, I mean one where the guide or pulley is below and behind the chain ring.
> 
> Like this,
> View attachment 1234196


What does that accomplish? My 6 year old's Specialized HotRock has one of those.

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> What does that accomplish? My 6 year old's Specialized HotRock has one of those.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


It keeps the chain from clanking around during suspension movement, and it adds chain wrap to the front ring preventing drop.


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## RSparkVB4 (Sep 26, 2018)

Bikes all built up and ready to go. Have an old 50mm stem and 20mm rise bars on now and still need to cut the steerer tube. Only thing left to get is new bars and stem. Any noticable difference between 35mm and 31.8 stem/bar combo. Now that everyone has ride time, 50mm or 40mm rise bars? I'm planning to slam it as low as possible to gain some extra reach for my height while still being comfortable. Planning on 40mm stem too. Wont let me upload pics for some reason on my phone to show it built.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

RSparkVB4 said:


> Bikes all built up and ready to go. Have an old 50mm stem and 20mm rise bars on now and still need to cut the steerer tube. Only thing left to get is new bars and stem. Any noticable difference between 35mm and 31.8 stem/bar combo. Now that everyone has ride time, 50mm or 40mm rise bars? I'm planning to slam it as low as possible to gain some extra reach for my height while still being comfortable. Planning on 40mm stem too. Wont let me upload pics for some reason on my phone to show it built.


35mm vs 31.8mm comes down to manufacturer. Renthal claims that both of their bars have the same ride characteristics. Other brands may be different, but the general rule is that 35mm provides a stiffer bar that can be equal to or lighter than the 31.8mm bar.

As for bar rise, I'd measure out the front end height to determine where you want your bars to end up. My bike is about 1" lower than where I'd like it so I'm heavily considering 40mm Renthal Fatbars, or 50mm Spank vibrocores. Both the 40's and the 50's give me more than an inch of rise, but my stem is not slammed so I have spacers to play with.

I'd read the handlebar/stem article that I linked too in this thread. It has given me a lot to think about in how my current setup affects the handling of the bike.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

RSparkVB4 said:


> Bikes all built up and ready to go. Have an old 50mm stem and 20mm rise bars on now and still need to cut the steerer tube. Only thing left to get is new bars and stem. Any noticable difference between 35mm and 31.8 stem/bar combo. Now that everyone has ride time, 50mm or 40mm rise bars? I'm planning to slam it as low as possible to gain some extra reach for my height while still being comfortable. Planning on 40mm stem too. Wont let me upload pics for some reason on my phone to show it built.


You are a huge dude.

Get the high rise bar, in aluminum and 35 diameter, with a long stem.

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## krystof (Jan 17, 2019)

Would a RockShox Super Deluxe Coil RCT with trunion dimension of: 205mm x 65mm or 205mm x 60mm work on a Foxy??
ty!


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

krystof said:


> Would a RockShox Super Deluxe Coil RCT with trunion dimension of: 205mm x 65mm or 205mm x 60mm work on a Foxy??
> ty!


Call Craig @ Avalanche. My shock started with a 205 x 65 and Craig just installed a stroke reducer. Same way that RS would reduce the stroke.

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> Call Craig @ Avalanche. My shock started with a 205 x 65 and Craig just installed a stroke reducer. Same way that RS would reduce the stroke.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


I wonder if they can do this for a coil as well. I'm tempted to try the new Zocchi Bomber CR with the MRP progressive spring, tuned by Avy of course. They don't make it in the 62.5 stroke but they do make the 65.


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## embi (Nov 26, 2018)

Hey, I'm considering running a 29 front / 27.5 rear. What are your thoughts about this? I'm afraid that the BB will be too low :/ Any idea how to raise it?


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

embi said:


> Hey, I'm considering running a 29 front / 27.5 rear. What are your thoughts about this? I'm afraid that the BB will be too low :/ Any idea how to raise it?


Why? Why would you do this? Just run 29 front and rear like the bike was designed for.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

GearTech said:


> I wonder if they can do this for a coil as well. I'm tempted to try the new Zocchi Bomber CR with the MRP progressive spring, tuned by Avy of course. They don't make it in the 62.5 stroke but they do make the 65.


Just confirmed with Avalanche that a simple spacer under the bottom out bumper is all that's needed to adapt most 205x65 shocks to 62.5 for use on our bikes. Bingo!


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

embi said:


> Hey, I'm considering running a 29 front / 27.5 rear. What are your thoughts about this? I'm afraid that the BB will be too low :/ Any idea how to raise it?


I won't be surprised if the mixed wheel thing is our next mountain biking trend. 
However, to be optimized, obviously the bike must be designed with that in mind.
That said, a 2.5- 2.6 width 27.5" isn't much shorter than a 2.3 29er and is going to make a pretty minimal geo change. Basically it will slack the STA, slack the HTA, and drop the BB a few mm's. The Foxy 29 has a bit of a taller BB height by modern standards so that'll be okay. 
I'd go all in, install the -1 headtube angle kit, stick a wide 27.5" in there, put some 170 cranks on it, and report back here!
Good luck.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> Just confirmed with Avalanche that a simple spacer under the bottom out bumper is all that's needed to adapt most 205x65 shocks to 62.5 for use on our bikes. Bingo!


*








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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

embi said:


> Hey, I'm considering running a 29 front / 27.5 rear. What are your thoughts about this? I'm afraid that the BB will be too low :/ Any idea how to raise it?


My Riot has a 350mm BB height static. Dropped to 339mm with a 27.5 and 2.5 tire. It turned better, rear tracked a little better but hung up more.


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## embi (Nov 26, 2018)

i'm either considering running a 27.5 on the rear. or getting a Dune and running 29er in the front. I want to decrease the weight, increase stiffness and i like the aesthetic of it. I already got the 170 mm cranks.

// EDIT
Ok, so the Foxy is *not *capable of running 27.5 in the rear due to tyre clearance issues.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Did some measuring today. My medium frame with a 9point8 R 150mm dropper provides a minimum height of 67.5cm from center of bb to center of seat rails. This is the shortest 150mm dropper that I know of.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

dubthang said:


> Did some measuring today. My medium frame with a 9point8 R 150mm dropper provides a minimum height of 67.5cm from center of bb to center of seat rails. This is the shortest 150mm dropper that I know of.


The KS Lev droppers have a very short overall length as well. I'm only 5'11" on a L and running a 175 and frankly could fit a 180 or even 185 dropper if KS made one.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

embi said:


> i'm either considering running a 27.5 on the rear. or getting a Dune and running 29er in the front. I want to decrease the weight, increase stiffness and i like the aesthetic of it. I already got the 170 mm cranks.
> 
> // EDIT
> Ok, so the Foxy is *not *capable of running 27.5 in the rear due to tyre clearance issues.


That seems really odd.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Cerberus75 said:


> My Riot has a 350mm BB height static. Dropped to 339mm with a 27.5 and 2.5 tire. It turned better, rear tracked a little better but hung up more.


Good info. 
Do you think mixed wheel sizes are the future?

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## krystof (Jan 17, 2019)

ty, I called Craig and he gave me all the info... I will be ordering the RS Super Deluxe RC3 which he will adjust to 62.5 and rework it I'm also going with RS up front, Boxxer red Lyric


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

krystof said:


> ty, I called Craig and he gave me all the info... I will be ordering the RS Super Deluxe RC3 which he will adjust to 62.5 and rework it I'm also going with RS up front, Boxxer red Lyric


Correct decision. Great job.

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## RSparkVB4 (Sep 26, 2018)

Bike is up and running and had 2 days on the dirt. I am loving it already. Initial impressions. I do notice that you have to weight the front fork more and i am in the attack position more when riding, but it didnt take long to figure it out and i am faster on turns because of it. My quads burn more on this bike more than any other bike i have ridden and i have my seat all the way back and maxed out. This isnt only on the climbs (never really need to stand on the climbs) but just riding in general and when seated. Also, just like all the reviews, the bike does love to go fast and the faster you go, the better it handles. I notice that i have no power loss when pedaling out of turns and am pedaling in places where i normally dont because the bike is pretty efficient. Honestly, its not as plush as i though it would be, but i am still trying to dial it in for both the front and back. Lastly, this bike doesnt feel big to me at all, I had no front washout and i was absolutely trying for speed on corners and it never felt loose and this is w/ a 42 offset Lyrik and 50mm Stem.

My build w/ pics:
-Enve 40mm rise carbon bars w/ 50mm Turbine 6 degree rise stem and 20mm spacers under. (I want to try a 50mm rise because i still feel a little hunched over right now). I felt like the reach was OK for me, but honestly i could use a little more. I had to push the bars forward some to get the reach i wanted, but then i felt the turning was slow and sluggish so i pulled them back some to get the quicker steering i wanted. Catch 22 i guess. Maybe I will take off the 10mm spacer I have left to get it a little higher and see. 
- 2019 RCT3 Lyrik 42 offset (not the 44 fox specs). Feels good so far, really supple off the top but wish i would have gone RC2 for the HSC but i got a killer deal on it that I couldnt pass up on it. When things get chundery and rocky I feel it in my hands and its doesnt plow through like i thought it would. Needs more tuning still and not enough time to really comment. 
- I am running the DHX2 but w/ a Cane Creek Vault spring @ 550lbs. My friend had the spring to use and mine came w/ a fox 450lb and i didnt even try with it on as I am 240ish pounds geared up, 230 dry and thought i was going to destroy the shock using it. I dont understand all the hate for the coil on this bike. I might have not enough time on it but so far it feels nice. Super firm in the first 20-30 percent then smooth. I dont notice it being super linear and believe me i have seen all the graphs and research. If anything I think it can be a little more plush and I am going to tune it and dial it in more. I am also going to get the MRP progressive spring (550lbs) sometime next week so i will report back with finding. I think it will be awesome because the first 25% will be 475lbs and ending 675lbs so it will be more plush off the top, where i think it could do a little better anyways and still not lose efficiency because of its high anti squat numbers.

Other items are just the standard DHF/DHR2, Code Rs, Next R carbon cranks, 9point8 200mm dropper, Diety pedals, Eagle drive train, and absolute black oval chainring. wrapped parts of the frame in 3M PPF (looks good IMO and cant notice it except it makes it a little shiny instead of matte) Any questions go ahead and ask.

Gunna get the fork dialed in more and coil and will report back, but so far just on Strava i have 3 new PRs for trails it said i have done 45, 46, and 46 times so i am a believer that this bike crushes it. For reference my last 2 bikes were a 18 Jet 9 RDO and a SC Tallboy 2 and all 3 trails were not all downhill bruisers, one is a flow trail w/ twist and no banks and this bike was still faster then both. Going to do more drops and rougher stuff tomorrow and hopefully Santa Cruz soon so we will see about how linear it really is with the coil, but now its fine. Just wanted to let you guys know my findings and experience on the bike, i have read through every post on this thread and it has been super helpful so maybe this will help someone else!


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## krystof (Jan 17, 2019)

Thanks for all your input and great info on these bikes.. I'm glad I came across this thread and did my homework first before ordering...


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

RSpark, good info. 

Your observations about how the bike behaves matches mine. 

At first my quads are over stressed due to a steeper seat tube angle, but I came to prefer the set up. Somewhere between 75.5-76.2 degrees for a STA is ideal imo.

I do wish they made an XXL for your size for the true Mondraker fit.

On the forks, take the money you saved and get an Avy cartridge for it and you'll have a better fork for the same cost as the Lyric. 

Eager to hear about your coil shock results. I wish I could have ridden the coil my bike came with but I needed the cash of being able to sell it as brand new. Besides i'm a WW and knew Avy would make the lighter air shock work great. 

Congrats!

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## krystof (Jan 17, 2019)

Gentleman, just need a affirmation... I test rode a medium foxy and thought it was a good fit. I’m 5’10” normal build, legs, torso, arms are proportional lol. Due to the “extreme” geometry specs the medium seems like the right fit. 
I usually ride a large in other bike.. I currrently own a large stupmjumper. Thoughts? Ty


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

krystof said:


> Gentleman, just need a affirmation... I test rode a medium foxy and thought it was a good fit. I'm 5'10" normal build, legs, torso, arms are proportional lol. Due to the "extreme" geometry specs the medium seems like the right fit.
> I usually ride a large in other bike.. I currrently own a large stupmjumper. Thoughts? Ty


Sounds right to me but only you can decide. I build geo charts comparing new bike contenders to my existing bike and then think long and hard about what I want in the fit to be different from my current set up. I'm highly opinionated so that was easy to see for me Good luck.

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## littlebon (Jul 23, 2015)

Hi, that mondraker foxy size frame is right for 6’1”? L or xL??


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> The KS Lev droppers have a very short overall length as well. I'm only 5'11" on a L and running a 175 and frankly could fit a 180 or even 185 dropper if KS made one.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


Good to know that another option exists.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

littlebon said:


> Hi, that mondraker foxy size frame is right for 6'1"? L or xL??


I think a large would fit you best.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

This idea has been keeping me up at night. I just have to try it. First step will be to see if the progressive spring works well with the frame. If it does the shock will be sent off to Avalanche for super awesome mods.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

GearTech said:


> View attachment 1237607


Look forward to your results.


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## RSparkVB4 (Sep 26, 2018)

I am so torn and have been trying to decide if I should get the 500lb or 550 lb progressive spring! How much do you weigh? I am 230 dry and 240 kitted up? I am running a 550 spring now and still trying to get a feel for it.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Im 220 max kitted up and run 30-33% sag. I’ve decided to lose a minimum of 20lbs as I’m carrying quite a bit of extra weight. With all these factors and considering the spring is progressive I’m going with a 400lb spring. That should give me the sag I’m looking for. It’ll probably be a little light until I shed 10lbs or so but that’s okay. 

For you, how is the sag with the 550? Bottoming out? General feel?


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

For progressive springs, isn't the spring rate the average? So if you came off a normal 400 lb/in spring, and went to a progressive 400 spring, it'd take the same force to bottom out? It'd just be softer earlier in the stroke and firmer for the end of the stroke?


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

ninjichor said:


> For progressive springs, isn't the spring rate the average? So if you came off a normal 400 lb/in spring, and went to a progressive 400 spring, it'd take the same force to bottom out? It'd just be softer earlier in the stroke and firmer for the end of the stroke?


Sort of. MRP lists the rate at around 25% compression so it's not the average. It will take more force to bottom out because the linear rate equivalent goes up as you compress. So at 90% compression it's like you're running a 475# spring whereas at 25% it's equivalent to a 400# spring. The rate ramps progressively rather than linearly.

From MRP's website:
_Effective base rate:
400 lb/in

Approximate linear-spring rate equivalent at 25% sag (rounded to nearest 25 lb. increment):
...on 51mm (2.0")stroke shock: 400
...on 55mm / 57mm (2.25") stroke shock: 400
...on 60mm stroke shock: 400
...on 63mm (2.5") / 65mm stoke shock: 400

Approximate linear-spring rate equivalent at 90% travel (rounded to nearest 25 lb. increment):
...on 51mm (2.0")stroke shock: 450
...on 55mm / 57mm (2.25") stroke shock: 450
...on 60mm stroke shock: 450
...on 63mm (2.5") / 65mm stoke shock: 475_


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I don't have much to report about my own Foxy, except that I'm genuinely faster up/ down/ around. It's an easy bike to go fast on.

I'm not any braver so I still am looking for walk arounds on 6'+ drops but besides that, I've ended up being notably faster overall on the bike. I love the way the bike does everything, but especially the way it turns. A couple of my best riding buddies that use to drop me, I commonly drop them these days, which is really cool.

Weather has not cooperated with riding much lately however.

Will probably convert my Eagle to AXS once available.

I look forward to this whole coil shock with a progressive spring results thing.

No regrets and I feel this is a bike I'll ride for several years as it feels pretty future proof, for my application.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> No regrets and I feel this is a bike I'll ride for several years as it feels pretty future proof, for my application.


Glad to hear you're loving it!

No way I'll go AXS. I went through 2 rear mechs last year alone. I can't stomach the idea of blasting an $800 derailleur. GX4Life!! LOL.

The only thing that would sway me from the Foxy 29 is a similar geo'd bike with a really good gearbox. Since a really good gearbox doesn't exist yet I'll stick with the Foxy. I hate derailleurs...

I did install the -1 cups recently. I haven't ridden it with the new geo yet as I slightly separated my shoulder on a ride/crash a little over a week ago. Giving it at least another week before I hit the trails hard again.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

In my nearly 5 years of riding I've never killed one. There is one particular spot that banged up my shifting pretty good 2x in a row so I just walk it now. However that override clutch on the AXS would have prevented that particular damage. I think it'll run around $500 list, something I can buy for around $400 for just the derailler. The $2K price includes cranks, rotor, cassette, shifter and chain after all.


I'd love a 'good' gearbox bike as well, but I don't see that happening for quite some time.

You are going to like the -1 headset. At first I wasn't 100% sure, but I wouldn't go back now.

Here is hoping the shoulder gets to feeling better, did mine a couple of years back and it flippin' hurt at the time.


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## MarcoM85BG (Nov 6, 2018)

RSparkVB4 said:


> Bike is up and running and had 2 days on the dirt. I am loving it already. Initial impressions. I do notice that you have to weight the front fork more and i am in the attack position more when riding, but it didnt take long to figure it out and i am faster on turns because of it. My quads burn more on this bike more than any other bike i have ridden and i have my seat all the way back and maxed out. This isnt only on the climbs (never really need to stand on the climbs) but just riding in general and when seated. Also, just like all the reviews, the bike does love to go fast and the faster you go, the better it handles. I notice that i have no power loss when pedaling out of turns and am pedaling in places where i normally dont because the bike is pretty efficient. Honestly, its not as plush as i though it would be, but i am still trying to dial it in for both the front and back. Lastly, this bike doesnt feel big to me at all, I had no front washout and i was absolutely trying for speed on corners and it never felt loose and this is w/ a 42 offset Lyrik and 50mm Stem.
> 
> My build w/ pics:
> -Enve 40mm rise carbon bars w/ 50mm Turbine 6 degree rise stem and 20mm spacers under. (I want to try a 50mm rise because i still feel a little hunched over right now). I felt like the reach was OK for me, but honestly i could use a little more. I had to push the bars forward some to get the reach i wanted, but then i felt the turning was slow and sluggish so i pulled them back some to get the quicker steering i wanted. Catch 22 i guess. Maybe I will take off the 10mm spacer I have left to get it a little higher and see.
> ...


Hi Spark,
Is it an XL? I've just ordered an XL, the alloy one with Monarch RL on the rear. I'm 188cm, how tall are you?! Your seatpost is so long!!
Tnx... Waiting for my Foxy 
Marco


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## RSparkVB4 (Sep 26, 2018)

Mods please delete, double post.


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## RSparkVB4 (Sep 26, 2018)

GearTech said:


> Im 220 max kitted up and run 30-33% sag. I've decided to lose a minimum of 20lbs as I'm carrying quite a bit of extra weight. With all these factors and considering the spring is progressive I'm going with a 400lb spring. That should give me the sag I'm looking for. It'll probably be a little light until I shed 10lbs or so but that's okay.
> 
> For you, how is the sag with the 550? Bottoming out? General feel?


The sag is right at 30-33% percent. If i just bunny hop in the parking lot and land to flat it will eat up all my travel and bottom out. I wouldnt notice it and dont feel it however i used a dry erase on the shaft and it completely erased to the bumper stop. Otherwise though i would never know. The only time i felt a bottom out on the trail was on a slow drop at low speeds and the rear hit hard. Other than that, I am still getting PRS on all the trails i normally ride but it still feels harsh in the rear and when I called Quarv they said I should be at a 500 spring and gave me their recommended setup which was a range of 7-9 HSC, LSC, HSR, and LSR from FULL OPEN. Fox gives a very different recommendation but again its not for this bike specifically, just for the DHX and spring rate. I was running it at fully open HSC and LSC with 12-16 LSR+HSR. I found the higher HSR helped it actually feel more planted and less harsh but still was harsh and slow in turns. The thing is, pedaling is amazing and i am pedaling in places i normally wouldnt and there is no wallow in the rear so IDK. I tried their (quarv) setup recommendations but it was after a 3 hr ride and on a flow like trail with minimal bumps so cant comment on it much. I think i am going to go with a 500 spring and re do my HSC/LSC and rebound. I have been watching all of VS Tuesday tech tunes and have a better understanding of everything now. I will say one thing, its a F'in rocket ship at straight line DH!!!

Lastly, my turning is still slower than i would like it to be on the bike. It might be that my 19 Lyrik is lacking mid stroke support and to soft in the middle. Sag is set to 22%, 110 psi, and use good amount of travel every rise and i never bottom out in the front. but i run the HSC open, and LSC at 4 from OPEN. Any more LSC and it felt harsh in the front too, maybe adding a token will help it. Lastly i have a 50mm stem with 6deg rise now and 35 mm clamp/40mm Enve riser bars. I am going to switch to a 40mm stem, 6 deg rise, 31.8 clamp/50mm riser bar. I want to see if getting rid of the extra 10mm will quicken up my turning. I have 20mm of spacers under my stem right now and to keep my same reach on the bike i would have to remove all but 5mm and that keeps my reach the same but drops my total stack by 23 mm but then i make it up with the 10mm rise from the 50mm bars. I want a 50mm carbon bar in 35mm clamp but they dont exist, so the 31.8 Enve it is.

And yes, to the other poster its an XL and i am 198mm, 105 kilo.


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## MarcoM85BG (Nov 6, 2018)

RSparkVB4 said:


> The sag is right at 30-33% percent. If i just bunny hop in the parking lot and land to flat it will eat up all my travel and bottom out. I wouldnt notice it and dont feel it however i used a dry erase on the shaft and it completely erased to the bumper stop. Otherwise though i would never know. The only time i felt a bottom out on the trail was on a slow drop at low speeds and the rear hit hard. Other than that, I am still getting PRS on all the trails i normally ride but it still feels harsh in the rear and when I called Quarv they said I should be at a 500 spring and gave me their recommended setup which was a range of 7-9 HSC, LSC, HSR, and LSR from FULL OPEN. Fox gives a very different recommendation but again its not for this bike specifically, just for the DHX and spring rate. I was running it at fully open HSC and LSC with 12-16 LSR+HSR. I found the higher HSR helped it actually feel more planted and less harsh but still was harsh and slow in turns. The thing is, pedaling is amazing and i am pedaling in places i normally wouldnt and there is no wallow in the rear so IDK. I tried their (quarv) setup recommendations but it was after a 3 hr ride and on a flow like trail with minimal bumps so cant comment on it much. I think i am going to go with a 500 spring and re do my HSC/LSC and rebound. I have been watching all of VS Tuesday tech tunes and have a better understanding of everything now. I will say one thing, its a F'in rocket ship at straight line DH!!!
> 
> Lastly, my turning is still slower than i would like it to be on the bike. It might be that my 19 Lyrik is lacking mid stroke support and to soft in the middle. Sag is set to 22%, 110 psi, and use good amount of travel every rise and i never bottom out in the front. but i run the HSC open, and LSC at 4 from OPEN. Any more LSC and it felt harsh in the front too, maybe adding a token will help it. Lastly i have a 50mm stem with 6deg rise now and 35 mm clamp/40mm Enve riser bars. I am going to switch to a 40mm stem, 6 deg rise, 31.8 clamp/50mm riser bar. I want to see if getting rid of the extra 10mm will quicken up my turning. I have 20mm of spacers under my stem right now and to keep my same reach on the bike i would have to remove all but 5mm and that keeps my reach the same but drops my total stack by 23 mm but then i make it up with the 10mm rise from the 50mm bars. I want a 50mm carbon bar in 35mm clamp but they dont exist, so the 31.8 Enve it is.
> 
> And yes, to the other poster its an XL and i am 198mm, 105 kilo.


Ok I understand. With 10cm less, I'm gonna leave the seatpost lower and maybe also be quite ok with the stock 30mm stem (is your a 60?). I'll post you some photos of mine when it will be here... Take also into account that mine, or the alloy one, has also 76° vs 75,5° of seat angle respect to the carbon one. I the meanwhile I must wait for it for an other month... :madman:


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

MRP Progressive Spring and Marzocchi Bomber CR initial impressions:

IT'S SO GOOD!!!

For reference I'm 220lbs ready to ride and I'm running the 400lb spring.

It's like a combination of the small bump compliance of a coil and the progressive bottomless feel of an air shock.

On the initial ride I did my best to include as many situations as possible. These drops for example are 3' and 6' down at the landings



















There was no detectable bottom out on the many times I hit them. I did bottom on the bigger one but i couldn't tell at all.

The mid stroke support is excellent. Pedaling is fantastic, no doubt a product of the Zero suspension design.

Traction is excellent. Most noticeable on flat, bumpy turns and during braking in rough sections. The bike feels more settled and predictable.

Pop off jumps and bunny hops aren't noticeably better or worse.

The Bomber CR is a very simple shock with only compression and rebound adjustments. However, it does have a great midvalve design and shim stack in the compression circuit. It is incredibly easy to get dialed in and it feels great once you do. With the efficiency of this suspension design I'm not sure complicated damper adjustments are totally necessary.

So it seems that the MRP Progressive spring delivers what it promises, to make coil shocks compatible with frames that don't have ideal "coil shock" leverage curve.


























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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

^^^^
Thanks for the report! Is your coil setup heavier than what came off the bike?


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

dubthang said:


> ^^^^
> Thanks for the report! Is your coil setup heavier than what came off the bike?


Absolutely it's heavier. It's sprung weight and it's lower in the frame so I don't mind. If I enter any XC type races I'll throw the DPX2 and light tires on it. Otherwise I just PR'd a couple decent climbs with the "heavy" coil lol.

Here's the Bomber CR, Float X2, and DPX2 Performance weights for comparison.









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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Thanks for the pics and weights!


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## wake jake (Apr 10, 2006)

Upgraded from a Dune XR to a Foxy 29 XR so both my bikes have the same wheelsize (Cotic Flaremax) Very impressed with Foxy so far and agree with most of the comments previously made. Efficient, fast and good cornering. I have also been looking at MRP springs with much anticipation as to the performance. I am 205lb geared up was looking at going up to a 450lb SLS from a 400lb SLS spring which may be too firm. Trying to find that extra of progression.


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## MarcoM85BG (Nov 6, 2018)

wake jake said:


> Upgraded from a Dune XR to a Foxy 29 XR so both my bikes have the same wheelsize (Cotic Flaremax) Very impressed with Foxy so far and agree with most of the comments previously made. Efficient, fast and good cornering. I have also been looking at MRP springs with much anticipation as to the performance. I am 205lb geared up was looking at going up to a 450lb SLS from a 400lb SLS spring which may be too firm. Trying to find that extra of progression.
> 
> View attachment 1238633


This bike is still goodlooking in XL size, don't you?! An seems to be a good choice for tall people like us. I'm waiting for my XL, alloy version, which have also slightly different geos (seat 76 vs 75,5). I'm 188 (6'2") x 85 Kg (187lbs), just out for an L range. What's your numbers if I could?


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## krystof (Jan 17, 2019)

Gentleman, I have a Foxy on order but am wondering if it comes with a headset or if I need to order one. If I need to order one does anyone know what the ID of the top and bottom tube is on the frame so I can order the correct headset? Thank you!


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## wake jake (Apr 10, 2006)

MarcoM85BG said:


> This bike is still goodlooking in XL size, don't you?! An seems to be a good choice for tall people like us. I'm waiting for my XL, alloy version, which have also slightly different geos (seat 76 vs 75,5). I'm 188 (6'2") x 85 Kg (187lbs), just out for an L range. What's your numbers if I could?


I agree. Some can look too big and almost awkward. I'm 192cm and 92kg and find it slightly short than my Dune XR.


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## RSparkVB4 (Sep 26, 2018)

krystof said:


> Gentleman, I have a Foxy on order but am wondering if it comes with a headset or if I need to order one. If I need to order one does anyone know what the ID of the top and bottom tube is on the frame so I can order the correct headset? Thank you!


 Call Quarv imports and they can help you out. Mine came with a headset but no bearings. The headset bearings are different sizes depending on what model you order.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

You don't need bearings, just the new cups.

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Shock is sold

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

What's new y'all? How are all you good people enjoying the best bike in the world?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> What's new y'all? How are all you good people enjoying the best bike in the world?


Nothing to report except that i'm a crap ton faster on this thing. I'm covering miles over very rough terrain like never before. One slight new problem is that I can shred knobs in just a few rides and I smash hard enough that broken spokes are just a (constant) part of my life now. 
I'm crazy for this bike. 









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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

Schwalbe, what would you expect?

Im now a full 6months in on the bike
Have broken two rear Nextie carbon rims (I should know better) and have tried various stem lengths and sadle positions.

Have added and removed spacers,

Have swapped a DHX2 in for the DPX2 and back out

Tried heaps of tyres...

The take away is that as a heavy trailbike it’s fantastic with dpx2 and tyres around 2.5 measured. I have found the new Spanish MSC Gripper tyres the best with a firmer compound out back and softer race compound front
It tears maxxterra tyres apart on the rear and the dual compound Maxxis are too spooky out back. MSC are definitely worth a look.

The speed of the bike on bad terrain means broken carbon rear wheels.

Avoid carbon if you are not using cushcore etc. 
Currently on DT swiss 511 EX no problems.

Also once your quads adjust its best to have the saddle central on the rails keeping your weight central. Im around 5’9’ - 176cm on a medium and have put in 20mm of spacers to raise the stack and stretched the reach back to original with a 35 rather than 30mm stem.
The bike is absolutely dialed now!

For DH and gravity work the Dhx2 rocks on the bike. Fiddly getting the right coil but perhaps the Mondraker guide is best. I used a 400lb coil for a 75/76 kg ride weight

The BEST modification I have made was fitting a luftkappe to the Grip performance 36.
Stock I could not get the fork to work and didn’t have confidence to ride the bike centrally and forward. This meant not getting the performance out of the bike that it’s capable of. If you ride it ‘traditionally’ ie: off the back too much you miss out on the gains and it can make the long bike unweildy and hard to steer - many reviews by even the likes of Bike mag say this. Its because they have not set the bike up properly and are not riding it as intended.

So with luftkappe the fork has tons more midstroke and makes you feel fantastically confident. Immediately you ride the bike faster and harder and better and it transformed my experience on the bike. Do it!

What don’t I like?
The chatter of the initial strong progression of the leverage ratio.
That firm platform which makes it such a pleasure to trail ride is just to brittle on most small lumpy terrain.
Only when riding the bike at its intended speed and into its travel does it become more composed and sublime. Guess its a trade off?

Next tweak?

Angle Set. Going to pop on the Mondraker angle set to see how it works with a degree or so less HA on some of our chunkier terrain. As the weather cools down south we can ride longer and on bigger stuff so will see how that goes!

Ps: DPX2 is back on. As much as the coil makes the bike faster on all tech terrain - up and down- I prefer the rear end with air. I think the kinematic is more suitable to an air shock. The dpx2 seems a perfect fit.

Happy Riding and no crashing!


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

Probably should post a pic. Prior to wheels being rebuilt...


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

GearTech said:


> What's new y'all? How are all you good people enjoying the best bike in the world?


It's winter here in Maine so fat bikes only for now. Should hopefully be riding the Mondy in a couple of weeks.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Professed said:


> What don't I like?
> The chatter of the initial strong progression of the leverage ratio.
> That firm platform which makes it such a pleasure to trail ride is just to brittle on most small lumpy terrain.
> Only when riding the bike at its intended speed and into its travel does it become more composed and sublime. Guess its a trade off?


I only had a similar experience on my demo ride but not on my personal bike.

The rear suspension as set up for the demo ride had what I'd describe as way to much HSC, but not nearly enough LSC. As a result it bobbed a lot when pedaling, but was painful to ride over the chatter, like HT like.

However my own Foxy, which I've only ridden with the Superdeluxe with the Avy tune, has this fantastic pedaling platform but absorbs chatter/ bumps/ jumps/ drops like they are not even there. It never feels squishy when pedaling, but at the same time it never feels harsh.

Just another data point for you.

I wouldn't mind trying the bike with a well set up EXT shock or something comparable.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> I only had a similar experience on my demo ride but not on my personal bike.
> 
> The rear suspension as set up for the demo ride had what I'd describe as way to much HSC, but not nearly enough LSC. As a result it bobbed a lot when pedaling, but was painful to ride over the chatter, like HT like.
> 
> ...


My Bomber CR is heading to Avy at the end of the week. To say I'm excited would be an understatement. It already feels really good with the stock Bomber and MRP progressive spring.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> My Bomber CR is heading to Avy at the end of the week. To say I'm excited would be an understatement. It already feels really good with the stock Bomber and MRP progressive spring.


Eager to hear your results combined with that progressive spring.

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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

Seems like some tuning goes a long way. 
Would be great if the bike came dialed out of the box!

Keen to hear of other experiences of rear set ups/ tuning etc 

Any idea what Avy does to soften off the top?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Professed said:


> Seems like some tuning goes a long way.
> Would be great if the bike came dialed out of the box!
> 
> Keen to hear of other experiences of rear set ups/ tuning etc
> ...


Avy leaves a proper peddaling platform while allowing it to 'blow off ' when a real bump is encountered thru the use of valving. 
The oil is forced through a small orifice making it firm, but with stock suspension it kind of hydrolocks when it gets hit real fast. With the Avy it blows off through a port that has a washer that flexes out of the way allowing the oil to flow very quickly in that moment so that all of the sudden it becomes plush when needed to.

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> Avy leaves a proper peddaling platform while allowing it to 'blow off ' when a real bump is encountered thru the use of valving.
> The oil is forced through a small orifice making it firm, but with stock suspension it kind of hydrolocks when it gets hit real fast. With the Avy it blows off through a port that has a washer that flexes out of the way allowing the oil to flow very quickly in that moment so that all of the sudden it becomes plush when needed to.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


I have the Avy open bath cartridge in my Fox 36 which does the same thing. It's phenomenal, like black magic phenomenal. The 36 was an RC2 damper prior which isn't too shabby but the first ride on the Avy cart was a revelation. It's so seamless and smooth you'd think it's able to predict the bumps.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

New review from Worldwide Cyclery.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I feel Jeff was dead on about his assessment of the SB4.5 Geo, and recognizes a proper fitting and pedaling bike in the Foxy 29.

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Has anyone tried an Aggressor 2.5wt on the back? The DHR II 2.4wt fits. 

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> Has anyone tried an Aggressor 2.5wt on the back? The DHR II 2.4wt fits.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


I had a used one I thought about trying but gave it away instead.

It'll fit, but do too flex it'll rub imo.

The bike doesn't need it. The bike gets insane traction and most riders can run less rear tire on the Foxy29 as a result resulting in a faster bike overall.

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> I had a used one I thought about trying but gave it away instead.
> 
> It'll fit, but do too flex it'll rub imo.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I suppose you're right. I've been fiddling about with different tires recently. I've found that the E*Thirteen TRS tires grip like nothing I've ever experienced before but roll *insanely* slow. I'll hold on to them for bikepark days.

Now that I have 30mm rims I'm really liking the 2.5 DHF WT 3C EXO in the front. When I was using the 26mm Stan's Arch I didn't like it at all. The 2.4 DHR II WT 3C EXO was great on the back during some recent rides but I'm wondering if the Aggressor will be even faster. I put a 2.3 DC Aggressor on there and will give it a shot today.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I've tried a ton of tires, but oddly enough I've never tried the Aggressor 2.3. I have went thru 3-4 aggresor 2.5s on my previous bike. Darn good tire but I consider it too slow. 

So I just put a 2.3 Aggr on the shelf a couple days ago to try out next.

My current favorite rear tire is the new style Hans Dampf 2.35 Snakeskin with a Pepi's inset. It has great traction, rolls really well, is light, and resists tears very well. I love it and don't wanna change, but I tend to damage the knobs pretty quickly on them. And they are expensive, but some of that is because I can just go faster on this tire.

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

My bike came stock with the 2.3 Aggressor. It's a decent tire, rolls well, and has moderate grip. I agree that the E13's have great grip, but roll slowly. The DHRII does great on the front, but I'm going to go with something a bit wider for this season, perhaps a WTB Vigilante.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

dubthang said:


> My bike came stock with the 2.3 Aggressor. It's a decent tire, rolls well, and has moderate grip. I agree that the E13's have great grip, but roll slowly. The DHRII does great on the front, but I'm going to go with something a bit wider for this season, perhaps a WTB Vigilante.


Good to know.

I rode today and with it being 83 degrees here I was a fair bit slower than when I ride during the winter months.

Not looking forward to summer, need road tires...

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## kongkers (Jul 11, 2010)

Read this entire thread before buying so thought I should share.

Got it in late January but still tinkering. I finally got the right spring for me but I'm still tuning it as I bottom out easily at the moment.

Starting to gel with the bike but it did take a while. Love the confidence going down steep terrain, it seems to feel like time slows down a bit so you can choose your line more carefully rather than just letting go and praying.

Still have a rattle from the internal cable routing to fix. Did anybody else encounter rattling from the cables?










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## linclinc (Jan 10, 2019)

Here's my Foxy RR - with a few upgrades:


 More rise on the bars (this colour was the only one the Aus distributor had left in a 50mm rise, sort of suits the bike)
 Zelvy GOAT 2019 carbon wheels. Carbon is nice on a 29er. No more flex.
 Angle set (a must)
 185mm BikeYoke dropper

















A few things I wan't to change but can't resolve:


 Need a good chain-slap solution. Waiting for this to launch: https://stfubike.com/
 Have had responses form a few manufacturers - but apparently there's no possible way to add a needle-roller bushing into the lower shock eyelet. Just have to deal with replacing it every few months.
 Need to find a chain guides that fits. The heavy modifications I made to an MRP guide so that it fitted took away too much material and made the guide too weak. Now snapped...

Anyone with ideas on how to resolve?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Call Qarv regarding the chain guide issue. They told me that they represent a product line that with small modifications works fine. 
I find I don't need a chain guide, just my bash guard.

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## linclinc (Jan 10, 2019)

Suns_PSD said:


> Call Qarv regarding the chain guide issue. They told me that they represent a product line that with small modifications works fine.
> I find I don't need a chain guide, just my bash guard.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


From Qarv:

_"There is a softer compound chain stay protector that helps some. Although I do not like to, I use a Lizard Skin protector on my 29 and it solves the problem.

As for the chainguide, we do not have a guide that works with this frame. We have been in communication with Mondraker about this issue and hope that there is a resolution in 2020"_

Not the best news. Might have to get a little agricultural to find a solution in the meantime. This is a bad design oversight from Mondraker - how could they release an enduro bike with ISCG mounts that can't actually fit a chainguide! It's borderline misleading.

****edit: having read the Mondraker website I now think it's definitely misleading - unless someone pops up on this forum that's been able to fit a guide. This is Mondraker's quote form the site: Foxy Carbon 29 has the option of installing a chainguide with ISCG05 mount. " ****


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## kongkers (Jul 11, 2010)

I have the oneUp chain guide on my bike without any issues. But it is just the top guide: https://int.oneupcomponents.com/collections/chainguides/products/top-guide

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Just got this beauty back from Avalanche. Marzocchi Bomber CR with the MRP Progressive Spring. Has all the Avalanche mods; speed sensitive damper, improved IFP, seals, custom tuned damper, spring collars and the improved bottom out bumper.

This is a 205x65mm shock. There's enough room for the full stroke of the shock which gives 156mm of travel. However, the stroke is so regressive at the end that the extra travel is useless. Unless you use a longer bottom out bumper like we have done here giving a nice and seamless ramp to the last 10% of the travel.

Performance is astounding. Extremely smooth yet quite supportive. Small bump compliance is excellent, high speed (30-35mph) repeated big hits are swallowed up with no packing or apparent bottom out, bigger drops will bottom the shock as they should but it isn't harsh at all. I've owned a push 11-6 and the adjustments are nice but for half the price I feel that the overall performance of this Avy tuned Bomber CR easily rivals and even beats the 11-6 in some aspects. I can confidently recommend this setup for the Foxy Carbon 29.









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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech, what a sweet set up!

Are you certain that 65mm stroke doesn't result in clearance issues?

I've got my Foxy torn down for some maintenance and an upgrade. I'll report back next week.

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> GearTech, what a sweet set up!
> 
> Are you certain that 65mm stroke doesn't result in clearance issues?
> 
> ...


I had the shock on without the spring and the original short bottom out bumper. I bounced up and down on it hard and while the rear tire is close (~5-7mm) on full compression I couldn't get the tire or linkage to touch or bind anywhere. I'm 210lbs and was putting a great amount of force into trying to get it to bind or touch the tire. If memory serves, I think the tire will touch the seat tube without the shock installed and without the linkage binding.

Spill the beans, what upgrade?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I'll be getting rid of one of those ugly cables hanging below my BB next week.

I managed to snag an AXS Eagle retrofit kit that's on the way.

Maybe I could zip tie the brake line to my bash guard? Problem is that it needs to cross back over in front of the tire. Anyways.

Anyone need an Eagle XX1 derailler, cable, and shifter?


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

That's awesome! I may be switching over sometime this summer. The cables under the BB don't bother me but I would love to get rid of the shift and dropper cables on the cockpit...

Are you going to keep the eeWings or switch to the AXS kit cranks?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

For sure keeping the EEwings. I've killed CF cranks before so I'm trying to reduce failure points.

The AXS I bought is just a retrofit kit. It's just the handlebar controller, the derailleur, the battery, and the charger.

Of course no one really knows what the retrofit kit will cost once it's available. However the seller (a bike dealer, and friend) took off $825 off the retail price to keep the cranks, cassette, and chain to sell off which is more than I could have gotten for them.

On an unrelated note, I removed my lizard skin chain guard and stuck on some Velcro tape (the soft side) just to see if that would work to quiet chain noise.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

I've had the XR carbon in XL for a few months now. My observations on the DHX2 coil are that it blows through travel and has a hard bottom out unless you're dialling in lots of compression. The consequence of that appears to make it feel lumpy and difficult to manage on faster rocky terrain. I've tried two different SLS springs (90kg and on a 450). I've now put a cheap air shock on to try the difference and if it's an improvement then I'll probably look at higher end air can like an X2.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

danlovesbikes said:


> I've had the XR carbon in XL for a few months now. My observations on the DHX2 coil are that it blows through travel and has a hard bottom out unless you're dialling in lots of compression. The consequence of that appears to make it feel lumpy and difficult to manage on faster rocky terrain. I've tried two different SLS springs (90kg and on a 450). I've now put a cheap air shock on to try the difference and if it's an improvement then I'll probably look at higher end air can like an X2.


That's exactly how all the LR charts indicated the Foxy would behave on the OEM coil shock. That's why I just removed mine when new so that I could sell it for top dollar, enough to pay for my chosen used air shock and an Avy revalve. Thanks for the confirmation as I was wondering for sure. 
I read recently that Spanish AM trails are very natural and rugged, with few man made features, which should work well with that shock. 
I'd talk to Avalanche, or even consider that EXT Storia wiith the hydraulic bottom out adjustment if your inclined to stick with a coil. 
I bet the '20 Foxy XR comes with an upgraded air shock. Let's all hope for RS as it's superior.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

I probably should have dug deeper into the LR and coil but you know, when a manufacturer specs a coil you should be able to rely on it.. naive I know. Just blew my knee up on an evening ride a few days ago (demoing a Ransom..) so I'll have to wait a week or so before I can test the Deluxe R I've fitted. I added a third token to it so it will be interesting to see if it's too progressive now. I was quite surprised to see how non pogo it was when I dropped the back end with 180psi in it. Fingers crossed it keeps some small bump compliance. Although it's more the higher speed mid-sized rock I'm looking at having control in, that's where I find the most difficulty keeping my line on.
I'll look into the EXT if I want to keep a coil. I am curious about an air X2 but doubt I could get one to test. I'm in Perth, Western Australia and getting demos for anything here is difficult due to the number of people here (or lack thereof).


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

It's not niave.
The ideal shock you want is off a 2018 Devinci Spartan 27.5" RS RT3, 205 x 65. But you'll need to shim it to 62.5mm stroke.
Oddly enough there was one on eBay about 3 months ago in Australia for sale. I should have bought it as a spare. 
Good luck. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

Thanks for that information, I'll keep an eye out for one.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

GearTech said:


> Has anyone tried an Aggressor 2.5wt on the back? The DHR II 2.4wt fits.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


I'm using one but it's on a Stans Arch EX so not the usual 30mm width. Haven't noticed any rub even with decent speed cornering. Grips pretty well and rolls well. Holding up probably better than the DHR/DHF would on the rear. Not as good obviously in steeper situations where you need that traction for your rear brake to actually work...


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

So had a cheeky ride on the Foxy today after fitting the air shock, purely in the interests of Mondraker science. Rode a few ups and downs on some local trails, bit of a mix of everything, techy terrain with almost trials type riding on flatter trail, short and loose steep climbs, fast and flowy with some berms, rocky fast descents with a few small kickers. Initial thoughts are that the air shock is clearly a better choice for the Foxy (compared to the DHX2 with SLS spring I should add).

It felt more supportive, quicker anywhere I needed to pedal, was surprisingly well controlled through the rock and seemed to help on techy climbs too. Interestingly, it seemed to spit less gravel whilst climbing. Tyre pressure was the usual 30psi rear and same tyres etc.

The only other change I had made was to fit the angleset cups to go to a 65° HA. I'm not sure why I didn't try this earlier, perhaps because I did it on a 27.5 years ago and it felt crap. On the Foxy however, it felt fantastic. A much more natural handling bike everywhere, not just descending.

I have reached out to Avalanche to discuss tuning options for the coil, but I have to say after today's ride I'm more interested in exploring the air can now and where that will go. 

The biggest surprise of all though was that the shock I put on was an RS Deluxe R. It cost $190 (AUS) from eBay. I fitted 3x tokens (max) and the O-ring was saying that I'd used approximately 80% of travel. Sag was bang on 30%. I'm pretty chuffed as I was starting to look at the Ransom, but I'm now thinking that I'll hang on to this wee beastie for awhile.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I have AXS going on soon and the brake & shifter cables hanging below the BB always irked my tidy sensabilities.

AXS will rid me of the shift cable. Is this a totally hair brain idea for rerouting the rear brake line? I'm not an experienced bike builder so I'm genuinely looking for advice. I dumped the shock's air pressure and there are no clearance issues. One issue however is that the brake line gets a tad loose at full compression and likely will not remain as tucked in as it appears in this photo. I need a small sticky pad with a small clamp for holding the cable.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## embi (Nov 26, 2018)

I'm choosing an air shock for the Foxy right now.
What are your opinions on Fox DPX2 Elite vs RS Super Deluxe RCT?

I had the DPX2 on my previous Foxy and was happy with it, but i still wonder if the Super Deluxe could still be better. Maybe more reliable? dunno.

Thanks for advice.

Right now I'm riding my third Foxy 29er, so if you guys want to know something, I can try to help


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Yes I wanna know why you're riding your 3rd one, do the frames break or something? 

Rock Shox builds a much better product internally than Fox.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

danlovesbikes said:


> So had a cheeky ride on the Foxy today after fitting the air shock, purely in the interests of Mondraker science. Rode a few ups and downs on some local trails, bit of a mix of everything, techy terrain with almost trials type riding on flatter trail, short and loose steep climbs, fast and flowy with some berms, rocky fast descents with a few small kickers. Initial thoughts are that the air shock is clearly a better choice for the Foxy (compared to the DHX2 with SLS spring I should add).
> 
> It felt more supportive, quicker anywhere I needed to pedal, was surprisingly well controlled through the rock and seemed to help on techy climbs too. Interestingly, it seemed to spit less gravel whilst climbing. Tyre pressure was the usual 30psi rear and same tyres etc.
> 
> ...


All good news. 
I think internally Avy can do all the same stuff to the shock you have. He just converted my climb switch on the RT3 in to a 3 position LSC switch but it's not needed, cause the middle position is correct. 
The Ransom is a seriously nice bike except: it doesn't peddle great unless you throw the bar mounted switch and no bash guard mount is a complete no go for me.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


>


Would a ziptie around the chainstay be enough to hold it in place?

If you had a thin bb spacer that extended above the bb (oval shaped), it could be enough to hold the cable in place.

Whatever you do, I'd put some tape on the frame to protect the paint. It looks like a lot of rubbing will happen.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

Suns_PSD said:


> I have AXS going on soon and the brake & shifter cables hanging below the BB always irked my tidy sensabilities.
> 
> AXS will rid me of the shift cable. Is this a totally hair brain idea for rerouting the rear brake line? I'm not an experienced bike builder so I'm genuinely looking for advice. I dumped the shock's air pressure and there are no clearance issues. One issue however is that the brake line gets a tad loose at full compression and likely will not remain as tucked in as it appears in this photo. I need a small sticky pad with a small clamp for holding the cable.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


I really don't see the issue with cables/hoses under a BB. I've had several bikes with this routing and never damaged one of them. It's extremely rocky on some of the trails locally and lot's of log overs etc to negotiate. I think that route you've chosen will definitely damage paint and with constant movement of the swingarm could potentially crack the inner sleeve of the hose. They're not really designed for that much movement.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

I had the Float X2 full of volume spacers and it wasn't as good as the DPX2. At first I thought I liked it better but after switching back to the DPX2 as a test I liked it better. The float was a little too linear and sort of dead feeling. Even after getting a "perfect tune" with the shockwiz. 

Now I have an Avalanche tuned Marzocchi Bomber CR with an MRP progressive coil and it's exactly how I always wanted the bike to feel. So good in fast bumps and supportive enough when pumping the terrain or in berms. It does lose a tiny bit of pop but not enough to want to forego the other benefits. With the Avalanche open bath cart in the fork and this shock the bike is so composed in fast rough stuff it makes me laugh out loud during rides. I notice it most in flat bumpy/rocky/rooty turns. The traction is unbelievable. 

I would have to believe that an Avy tuned Super Deluxe would be awesome as well. Really any air shock that uses a mid valve and shim stack should be tunable enough. 

The EXT coils are works of art. I'd love to try one out. 

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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

GearTech said:


> I had the Float X2 full of volume spacers and it wasn't as good as the DPX2. At first I thought I liked it better but after switching back to the DPX2 as a test I liked it better. The float was a little too linear and sort of dead feeling. Even after getting a "perfect tune" with the shockwiz.
> 
> Now I have an Avalanche tuned Marzocchi Bomber CR with an MRP progressive coil and it's exactly how I always wanted the bike to feel. So good in fast bumps and supportive enough when pumping the terrain or in berms. It does lose a tiny bit of pop but not enough to want to forego the other benefits. With the Avalanche open bath cart in the fork and this shock the bike is so composed in fast rough stuff it makes me laugh out loud during rides. I notice it most in flat bumpy/rocky/rooty turns. The traction is unbelievable.
> 
> ...


I think anytime a bike's handling characteristics make you laugh or smile you've pretty much nailed it. Haven't had that yet on the Foxy to be honest, but taking the DHX2 off has been a step forward. I wonder if I'll get a similar result if I have the Fox tuned and put an MRP progressive spring on too?


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## embi (Nov 26, 2018)

Suns_PSD said:


> Yes I wanna know why you're riding your 3rd one, do the frames break or something?
> 
> Rock Shox builds a much better product internally than Fox.


I'm have a good relationship with the importer. Had two Foxy Carbon R, and now I'm riding the Foxy XR aluminium.

But no, the frames do not break. Bearings on the other hand do not last long, they're are very exposed and the mudguard is a piece of crap.

[HR][/HR]
Thanks for the advice on the shock, I'm inclined to go for RockShox as well.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

danlovesbikes said:


> I really don't see the issue with cables/hoses under a BB. I've had several bikes with this routing and never damaged one of them. It's extremely rocky on some of the trails locally and lot's of log overs etc to negotiate. I think that route you've chosen will definitely damage paint and with constant movement of the swingarm could potentially crack the inner sleeve of the hose. They're not really designed for that much movement.


I spoke to my Magura Rep (local guy that I text occasionally) and he said it won't hurt the hose at all but that it certainly can/ will remove the frame paint.

I'm going to shield the paint (I already placed clear tabs under the hose in 2 spots and will monitor.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

Suns_PSD said:


> I spoke to my Magura Rep (local guy that I text occasionally) and he said it won't hurt the hose at all but that it certainly can/ will remove the frame paint.
> 
> I'm going to shield the paint (I already placed clear tabs under the hose in 2 spots and will monitor.


Fair enough, might be worth trying some Invisiframe type protection then some thicker rubber. My local automotive store sells this adhesive carbon effect roll that's very thick and durable. That might work.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Hey guys, placing this velcro (soft side) sticky tape on the OEM chain slap guard got rid of all chain slap noise. It's also held up well.

Took the Foxy to Bentonville this past weekend, what a fun place.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

danlovesbikes said:


> I think anytime a bike's handling characteristics make you laugh or smile you've pretty much nailed it. Haven't had that yet on the Foxy to be honest, but taking the DHX2 off has been a step forward. I wonder if I'll get a similar result if I have the Fox tuned and put an MRP progressive spring on too?


I'd try the spring alone first. If that gives you the feel you're after the tune will be the icing on the cake. If not the resale on the spring will be decent. The DPX2 isn't really too bad but a coil is much better with small and medium bumps IMO. The progressive spring gives enough midstroke support and ramp to make a coil usable in my experience.

Although, according to Craig the DHX2 and X2 are not as tunable as say the Bomber CR or RS because of the valving.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> I think my rear brake cable idea is probably not a good one. I'm going to attempt a little cable management thing but if that doesn't work perfectly it's going back to the usual position.
> 
> Oh yeah, just installed an AXS retrofit kit but won't get to ride until Friday cause no dropper post at the moment.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


Oh man that's nice!


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## krystof (Jan 17, 2019)

Apologies if this has been answered already.. 
I bought a RS Super deluxe RCT and had it rebuilt by Avalanche to replace the stock Fox Coil on my XR. The lower shock eyelet is too wide to fit in the lower linkage. Any suggestions??
Ty!!


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

krystof said:


> Apologies if this has been answered already..
> I bought a RS Super deluxe RCT and had it rebuilt by Avalanche to replace the stock Fox Coil on my XR. The lower shock eyelet is too wide to fit in the lower linkage. Any suggestions??
> Ty!!


That really should not be the case as that stuff is pretty standard. 
My Superdeluxe bolted right on. 
I'd call Craig to see if there is something you are missing, if not anybody with a milling machine could easily reduce the mounts to the same as the stock shock. 
Keep us updated.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

My latest attempt at rear brake cable management.

This is what happens when you're waiting on parts to put your bike together and you have nothing else to do.










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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Snapped back to my senses and ran the brake line back underneath. Did zip tie it to my bash guard however and then dumped the shock pressure to give it just enough slack.










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## boardguru (Oct 3, 2009)

Are those Sweet Wings cranks? How do you like them?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

boardguru said:


> Are those Sweet Wings cranks? How do you like them?


I think highly of the Eewing cranks.

I've snapped xx1 cranks clean thru so to get something that feels so direct, improves clearance (they extend less below the pedal boss than other cranks), has class leading weight, and never having a ride ruined again due to broken cranks, is worth the extra $250 I paid for them over new xx1 cranks.

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## Demorider8 (Apr 15, 2019)

Hi everyone, i've been reading this thread and I am very inclined to buy one! Some shop near me is selling a used R 29 for 3500€ (they say its in good condition). Do you guys think its a good price for a used one? Another question, i've read in a lot of reviews (also here in the forum) about the linear rear suspension. In the website mondraker states that the stock DPX2 comes with a 0.6 air volume spacer, if needed it can be replaced with a 0.86 or 1.02 Inch volume spacers right? Thank you!


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I might become a double Mondraker Foxy family shortly. 
My wife loves MTBing nearly as much as I do and has began to not feel real comfortable on her light trail bike. The suspension travel isn't the issue, it's how short and steep the bike is. 
Anyways, trying to work a deal on a used Small Foxy 27.5 that I came across.


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## wake jake (Apr 10, 2006)

I am 92kg and running the DHX2 on my Foxy with the MRP Progressive Spring in a 400lb. My bike came with the 400lb SLS spring and sag measures spot on. I think this spring on the shock fixes the harsh bottom outs and makes for a good match. I spent 6 days in Derby and Maydena in Tasmania and only felt a bottom out once on dirty rock huck to flat. Anyone wanting to keep a coil and not rely on dampening should go with the MRP spring.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

And what are your thoughts on the way the shock feels? Square edge hits, fast rock gardens etc?


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## wake jake (Apr 10, 2006)

danlovesbikes said:


> And what are your thoughts on the way the shock feels? Square edge hits, fast rock gardens etc?


It feels great to be honest. I can't fault the shock now really on any terrain.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

The trails are finally getting firm enough to ride up here so I look forward to getting back on my Foxy. Over the winter, I swapped to a 40mm riser Renthal Fatbar Lite, a 9point8 R dropper, and a set of Hope V4's. Will be trying out the new stuff this weekend.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

It's not a foxy 29, but I just picked up this lightly used size small Foxy 27.5 RR SL for my wife. She was often complaining that her small men's Giant mountain bike was too short front to rear even though she is only 5'3.5". 
She's only been riding about a year and doesn't ride quite aggressively enough to need a bike like this. But the thing only weighs 26.76# ready to ride with GX cranks and it's a great pedaling platform too with bottle storage. It also has an adjustable chainstay which has the option of keeping it in a very short position matching the size small frame and I like that. There was no penalty for the extra travel, well besides financial.
I only received it today taken apart and just got it together. So hopefully we'll get a test ride tomorrow.
It's also beautiful like her, which doesn't hurt. 









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## Demorider8 (Apr 15, 2019)

Hello


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## Demorider8 (Apr 15, 2019)

Hello, do you guys also get scratches in your chainstay because of the rocks that come with the back tire? The tire clearance is very smalI and I am running the stock 2.3 maxxis agressor. This is worrying my a lot, I have only a few hundred km and it is already scratched a lot! Thank you!


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Demorider8 said:


> Hello, do you guys also get scratches in your chainstay because of the rocks that come with the back tire? The tire clearance is very smalI and I am running the stock 2.3 maxxis agressor. This is worrying my a lot, I have only a few hundred km and it is already scratched a lot! Thank you!


Honestly, I haven't checked. I did break my arm ripping some sweet dh runs this weekend on my Foxy so I'll be pulling it apart for cleaning and upgrades once I get a more permanent cast on. I'll check it then and report back.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Demorider8 said:


> Hello, do you guys also get scratches in your chainstay because of the rocks that come with the back tire? The tire clearance is very smalI and I am running the stock 2.3 maxxis agressor. This is worrying my a lot, I have only a few hundred km and it is already scratched a lot! Thank you!


Yes, many scratches. They're superficial, I'm not worried about them at all. I've seen this on many other bikes as well. Santa Cruz for example.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I rode for a period of time with a stick stuck in between the tire and chain stay and when I pulled it out it had rubbed a significant notch into the chainstay. 
It's not that I don't care, it's just, what can I do?
The nice thing is that I just love this bike and might well not replace it for half a decade or longer which makes wear and tear a bit irrelevant. 

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## Mike2MTB (Mar 22, 2018)

*Demo Ride Mondraker Foxy RR 29*

Wow! Just had the chance to demo ride the Foxy RR. Fun bike.









Here is a video I did of the demo ride:






I did NOT want to demo this bike.

It has a reputation of being long and downhill focused.

But I spoke with the rep and found out that while the bike is long, the head angle is reasonable at 66 degrees.

So I went for it.

Glad I did.

Bike climbed way better than I thought it would ... as well or better than the other bikes in this size category (with modern geo).

Descending was limited, but a blast. Felt like bike "glided" over serveral tech sections.

I've demoed 16 bikes in the last 3 weeks.

The Foxy was a big surprise. I'd put it in the Top 5.

Note: I did a video about HOW I demoed 16 bikes for $105 here:






Hope this helps.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Thanks for the review although few that ride/ review the Foxy 29 think it's only a DH rig. It just so happens to be a really good hard trail/ light enduro bike and can do anything other trail bikes (i.e. Ripmo, SB130, etc...) can do in a trail riding situation while also being superior in the steeps.
They can take a ride or 2 to come to terms with the need to move more fore and aft to properly turn the thing but once you adapt, it's a manueverable trail bike.


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

Its actually taken me almost a year to fully dial the bike in. Tips for anyone interested in shortcuts: 1) run loads of sag in the rear shock. Ie: 33% or more. 2) Raise the stack. The short Head Tube is way to short for those who fit the sizes. 3) throw out the rubber and get as Assegai front. Gives you confidence to ride the bike as intended!


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Thanks for the suggestions. Here is my input. 

1) Qerv recommended 35% sag but I ended up at 31-32%. Avy told me that at 35% sag some bleed hole in the shock doesn't get exposed right and an air shock doesn't work correctly but I ended up at these numbers mostly using Shockwiz.
2) I've been running a 40mm rise bar for years as it gets the handlebar height right while keeping reach long as I can slam the bars. The used forks I bought for this bike, the steer tube was cut pretty short so I have no where to go. But I'm happy anyways. 
3) I kill tires often, rears every 6 weeks or so and fronts every 2-2.5 months. I've yet to try the Ass-Guy, but I'm certain it has mad traction. I don't go for the most traction however, I go for the least rolling resistance that I can get, with passable traction. This results in me riding the fastest over the entire trail. Now that it is 95 degrees in TX it's even more important to have an easy rolling bike. 



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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

I also agree on running a 40mm riser bar. I have about an 1" of spacers below the stem too. The riser bar not only increases the stack, but it moves your hands away from the steering axis which makes the bike more stable.

I think I'm around 32% sag, but getting the rebound dialed correctly makes a big difference on this bike too.

If you have an R build like mine, ditch the Sram brakes before they kill you. They are not strong enough for epic descents.


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## Demorider8 (Apr 15, 2019)

I've put some enduro style stickers in the inner chainstay to avoid the scratches, it's working so far! What I need to figure out is what's the "normal" play that fox claims their bushings should have. The evol leg seems like it has more play than the damper one.. Also I notice a little oil in the station when it sinks more into its travel. Probably I will contact fox about this.
About rear suspension, I'm also using around 30% sag and I really like the feeling of it!


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

40mm rise bar is a great tip! Must try that. What sweep are you guys using?
And yes, the guide Ts are rubbish. Only the RCT are of any value . Im currently on XT 4 pots and happy (swisstop e-pads), but hear great things about the formula curas and new Trps. 

Final tip - I also placed a strip of 3M self moulding rubber over the chainstay protector and it got rid of the high speed chatter noise. Bike is quiet and feels smoother just because of me not hearing anything!

Ps: the MSC tires which may not be available in the USA are fast rolling. Try a Gripper in 2C compound. Great dry weather ‘Enduro’ tyre. They run big. Don’t let sizing fool. A 2.3 MSC Gripper is bigger than a 2.5 WT Maxxis.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I wonder if that MSC rolls as fast as the Eliminator I've been on?
I really only ride dry rocky conditions so that aspect sounds ideal. 

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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

40mm riser. Awesome.
Deluxe R rear shock no spacers. Awesome.
Angleset headset to 65°. Awesome.
30mm headset spacer (1.91m tall so necessary).

Anyone managed to fit a 200mm rear rotor? If so which brand caliper?


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Professed said:


> 40mm rise bar is a great tip! Must try that. What sweep are you guys using?
> And yes, the guide Ts are rubbish. Only the RCT are of any value . Im currently on XT 4 pots and happy (swisstop e-pads), but hear great things about the formula curas and new Trps.


I have a Renthal Fatbar Lite. 7 degrees back, 5 up. My hardtail has a Spank Oozy which is 6 and 4, and that also feels good. It pulls the rider a bit more forward due to wrist placement.



danlovesbikes said:


> Anyone managed to fit a 200mm rear rotor? If so which brand caliper?


Currently running Hope V4's, 200 front and 180 back. I currently don't have a need for a 200 out back, but would like to see some pics if you do it.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Professed said:


> Ps: the MSC tires which may not be available in the USA are fast rolling. Try a Gripper in 2C compound. Great dry weather 'Enduro' tyre. They run big. Don't let sizing fool. A 2.3 MSC Gripper is bigger than a 2.5 WT Maxxis.


Do you also run the Tractive in the rear? How does it compare to other top tires in the category?

Thx


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

Havnt compared the two directly but the MSC is a harder compound in 2C and Supershield casing is much stronger. Knobs a tad shorter as well so expect it would roll quicker.


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

Tractor isn’t much good for anything but XC in my view. Side knobs too small. Rolls great and terrific straight line grip.


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## Professed (Sep 25, 2007)

Just bought the geometry kit to slacken HA. Keen to see how things improve ( if they do!) hope it doesn’t take away the bikes amazing all round abilities.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

You are going to dig the -1 headset. 
I did order the MSC Gripper but it'll be a month or so before I ride it. I'm actually building a new set of wheels so I might just save it for them.

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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Soooo.... Anyone try a 27.5 rear yet? I know some of the guys from the distributor are running it.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Mulleting my Fozy 29 occurred to me. In fact my wife's Foxy 27.5 has a rear wheel that would just bolt on in 1 minute, albeit with a much tamer rear tire set up.

I've blown the idea off just because for my purposes (pedal heavy trail riding) it would slacken and lower the thing more than I want to. Currently having new wheels built for the Foxy so I really thought about it for a moment.

Mullet bikes are the next big craze and is going to work well, especially for those riding size mediums and smaller.

Can anyone calculate the exact geo changes?

So the guys at Qarv are running them?

Did chat with an acquaintance of mine at Qarv. He is running mullet with the fork at 150mm and loves it. Bb about 13mm lower, slacker head angle. Not sure how much it slackens the STA which is the only part that doesn't sound good.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> Mulleting my Fozy 29 occurred to me. In fact my wife's Foxy 27.5 has a rear wheel that would just bolt on in 1 minute, albeit with a much tamer rear tire set up.
> 
> I've blown the idea off just because for my purposes (pedal heavy trail riding) it would slacken and lower the thing more than I want to. Currently having new wheels built for the Foxy so I really thought about it for a moment.
> 
> ...


Yep, That's the guy I've chatted with. I'm on a Medium so it's something I'll try eventually. I'd to 150 front with the standard headset most likely.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

I was putzing around in the garage last night and thought I'd try to come up with a solution to debris flinging on to the shock. Introducing the CrapFlap. It is just a small piece of old inner tube and some zip ties. I'm sure someone else has done this. It works well and causes no interference with suspension movement and doesn't rub the frame weird in any way.









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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

I like it. I'm wondering if one of those flexible fork fenders will work back there. Need to pick one up to try it.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

dubthang said:


> I like it. I'm wondering if one of those flexible fork fenders will work back there. Need to pick one up to try it.


I thought of that too. I't might work, the only issue would be it hitting the frame on full compression.


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## RSparkVB4 (Sep 26, 2018)

Debating on going air but need some input. I have the DHX2 and have tried SLS spring, MRP 500 and 550 progressive spring. I weigh 230-235 no gear. Each time it got better but im still not 100 percent happy with how its tracking and handling. Im faster on everything and it gets me out of some trouble, but it just doesnt feel like i think it should. On landings it feel supportive, but tracking on berms and repeated hits it feels harsh and traction is lost. I have it HSC fully open and i have played with HSR and LSC and LSR. It gets better but not to what i think it should. I called Craig over at Avalanche and got a lecture from him about sending my DHX2 and how it would basically be a waste of time and air is a better option, even over the CR Bomber. Only problem is, im on the upper limits for weight and will have to get it serviced sooner or might feel harsh due to high PSI.
It blew my mind when i set a PR on my buddies Giant Reign on a trail i have ridden 20 time on my own bike the FIRST time on his. His bike just absorbed the trail chatter and railed corners and was composed and had grips for days. My foxy doesn't feel as composed on repeated hits and berms as a coil should IMO. Straight line is fine, still harsh, but its the back to back hits and small bump fast hits that is throwing off traction for me. So im looking at the Super Deluxe RC3 205x65. Is this what some of you have? What mods do i need to do to mount to our 62.5? 

FWIW, here is what i have done so far to make a huge improvement on my bike... 
I have the headset spacers maxed out to increase stack
tried 30, 35, and 40 mm stem. 40mm worked best for me. 
Im changing my DHF/DHR2 (both exo) to Vigilante and Trail Boss combo. Exo sidewalls are to squirmy for me and if i pump them up to get them supportive the less traction i have. The WTB combo has stiffer sidewalls that will be more supportive in cornering. 
The Slacker cups are on order from Quarv, just waiting to get them in. 

Thanks for input.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Don't think this will help much, but I'm around 165 kitted up. I run the stock Fox DPX2 at about 150 psi. I don't remember what the rebound is set too, but it is per Fox's recommendations. To me, the rear of the bike feels very planted, and very supple. The trick for me is getting the correct amount of sag, and keeping the rebound soft enough to prevent bucking.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

RSparkVB4 said:


> Debating on going air but need some input. I have the DHX2 and have tried SLS spring, MRP 500 and 550 progressive spring. I weigh 230-235 no gear. Each time it got better but im still not 100 percent happy with how its tracking and handling. Im faster on everything and it gets me out of some trouble, but it just doesnt feel like i think it should. On landings it feel supportive, but tracking on berms and repeated hits it feels harsh and traction is lost. I have it HSC fully open and i have played with HSR and LSC and LSR. It gets better but not to what i think it should. I called Craig over at Avalanche and got a lecture from him about sending my DHX2 and how it would basically be a waste of time and air is a better option, even over the CR Bomber. Only problem is, im on the upper limits for weight and will have to get it serviced sooner or might feel harsh due to high PSI.
> It blew my mind when i set a PR on my buddies Giant Reign on a trail i have ridden 20 time on my own bike the FIRST time on his. His bike just absorbed the trail chatter and railed corners and was composed and had grips for days. My foxy doesn't feel as composed on repeated hits and berms as a coil should IMO. Straight line is fine, still harsh, but its the back to back hits and small bump fast hits that is throwing off traction for me. So im looking at the Super Deluxe RC3 205x65. Is this what some of you have? What mods do i need to do to mount to our 62.5?
> 
> FWIW, here is what i have done so far to make a huge improvement on my bike...
> ...


If you have been able to locate the correct length Super Deluxe Shock that is the correct answer. Then just send it straight to Craig. He will just place a little spacer inside to reduce travel, which is the same way the manufacturers do it.

The other reasonable option if you just prefer coil is contact Extoria regarding their coil with the hydraulic bottom out control as they will custom build that thing to your application.

I predicted all of these shock shortcomings before ordering my Foxy 29 and in fact located and purchased a used Superdeluxe RT3 before committing to the bike and sold off the stock coil when the frame was brand new. I wish I had bought the back up RT3 I located on ebay for $183.

Good luck.


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## kongkers (Jul 11, 2010)

Has anybody tried a DVO Topaz on the Mondraker?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

kongkers said:


> Has anybody tried a DVO Topaz on the Mondraker?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My understanding is that is a good product. The issue I have is it is small production and therefore Craig has not built any parts for it. Therefore you will never be able to tune it specifically for this bike.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Just mounted up this Spanish tire to go on my Spanish bike (both manufactured in Tiawan no doubt). I'll give it a go soon although with it being 100 degrees and often 80% humidity, low RR is really most important currently. 
MSC Gripper 2.3 which has an identical width to the 2.6 Eliminator I just removed.









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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

Hey all. I'm moving to another bike due to a partnership with my LBS. I have this sick Avalanche modded and tuned Bomber CR shock that fits the Foxy available. I'm going to list it in the classifieds but I thought I'd give you all the first shot at it. With a 450lb MRP progressive spring it would work perfectly for someone who weighs 185-210. It transforms the Foxy into a small bump eating machine and the progressive spring counteracts the falling rate of the Foxy's LR. PM me if you want first shot at it before it gets listed.









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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

GearTech said:


> Hey all. I'm moving to another bike due to a partnership with my LBS. I have this sick Avalanche modded and tuned Bomber CR shock that fits the Foxy available. I'm going to list it in the classifieds but I thought I'd give you all the first shot at it. With a 450lb MRP progressive spring it would work perfectly for someone who weighs 185-210. It transforms the Foxy into a small bump eating machine and the progressive spring counteracts the falling rate of the Foxy's LR. PM me if you want first shot at it before it gets listed.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sorry to see you go. 
I might be interested in the Bomber, however the spring rate isn't correct for me. 
If you want to discuss PM me.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Professed said:


> 40mm rise bar is a great tip! Must try that. What sweep are you guys using?
> And yes, the guide Ts are rubbish. Only the RCT are of any value . Im currently on XT 4 pots and happy (swisstop e-pads), but hear great things about the formula curas and new Trps.
> 
> Final tip - I also placed a strip of 3M self moulding rubber over the chainstay protector and it got rid of the high speed chatter noise. Bike is quiet and feels smoother just because of me not hearing anything!
> ...


I've had 2 'off' days on the MSC.
The first day I was riding with my 7 year old so it's not really riding but more like stopping every 40'. But it felt draggy and high traction. Also new tires always feel real draggy for the first 8 miles or so.
The 2nd day was at a lift assisted bike park but it's a small one in TX. Mad traction on the rocks, like really good. A bit sketchy on the sandy bits, and still felt a bit slow rolling even when not peddaling. 
For me, so far I'd prefer the MSC on lift assist or maybe in the dead of winter when i'm really strong, but I'd definitely take the Eliminator for general trail riding as the rock traction is like 85% as good, the other traction is notably better, and the rolling resistance is notably better as well. The MSC does have the advantage of working well with no tire noodle where the Eliminator can fold without. 
I'm hoping to have a spare set of rims soon and for bike park days I'd have the MSC mounted but not sure I'd choose it over the DHF or Assegia.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

The new Super Foxy 29. 160/ 170mm travel. New LR with less AS and more progressive for coil shocks. 65 degree head angle, 440/ 450 adjustable chainstay length, Superboost, AND a new softer retrofittable ribbed chainstay protector!

https://www.mondraker.com/es/en/new...5xG0sVuV6mXzmjv4wslezCphzcxAva8tfkG2CzRXOQEDw

The new Super Foxy looks super rad and if I played in this category it would be the one for me. But for the riding I do the Foxy 29 I already have is absolutely perfect. Pedals the heck out of everything, and offers enough travel for the jumps, drops, and terrain I prefer.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

I don't know if I'd buy the Super over my current Foxy, but it looks sweet. I want that chain stay protector! Also, I really like the idea of easier internal cable routing. Not a fan of the current internal routing.

Video for those that don't want to click through the website.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

More progressive too

"Suspension kinematics for a more supple beginning stroke off the top and a more progressive leverage ratio ideal for coil and big volume air shocks,..."

https://m.vitalmtb.com/news/press-release/Mondraker-Launches-the-New-Super-Foxy-Carbon-29,2961


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Looks like it has better rear tire clearance too.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

And whilst I commend the change to a more progressive leverage curve for a coil, I can't help feeling misled that I paid top dollar for the XR with a coil and it was awful. Only felt good when I changed to an air can.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Hopefully they retrofit the XR with these updates.
(E.g. Orbea Rallon)


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## RSparkVB4 (Sep 26, 2018)

I was just thinking of the new Orbea linkage upgrade. https://bikerumor.com/2019/07/05/ne...age-adds-travel-and-its-backwards-compatible/
Was very interesting to me. I doubt mondraker will do this though or if its even possible on the linkage we have.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

The Super Foxy linkage is designed with a different goal in mind then the Foxy 29. Wouldn't make sense to apply that linkage to the Foxy 29, it would ruin the bike's trail bike manners.

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## badbietz (Jul 11, 2007)

A lot of the front triangle geo measurements look the same, it also says optional 0deg headset cups so wonder if it ships with the angle set to give it 65deg head angle. If the front triangle is the same it would be interesting if you can fit the links to a regular Foxy 29 to change the leverage curve. Also the shock is 210x65 to get the 160mm travel.

It's also Super Boost 157 and looks like longer adjustable chainstay as well 440-450.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

^^^^
From the pics, one would have to swap the links and the rear triangle to make it work.


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## Demorider8 (Apr 15, 2019)

Hi! I am thinking about buying the - 1 headset, those of you who have it, how does it feel?


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## embi (Nov 26, 2018)

Feels good, hovewer I do not consider it to be game changing. But it works well with Foxy, considering the not-so-slack HA°, not-so-low BB and linear suspension curve.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Agreed. It's a worthwhile change and I prefer the bike this way, but game changing it is not. 

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## badbietz (Jul 11, 2007)

*MegNeg Air Can*

I just finished dialing in a Rock Shox Super Deluxe RC3 with MegNeg air can on my Foxy. I was running the Fox DPX2 at 170psi with a .86 volume spacer (yes Fox says not to install it).

After a few rides I'm really happy with the Super Deluxe with MegNeg, the rear feels much more composed (the shock is noticeably bigger), better traction, more small bump sensitivity and I have yet to bottom it out.

The shock was a take off from a Giant Reign I think, Medium Compression Low Rebound. I have it set up with full volume spacers which is 1 Gnar Dog (2.5) and 2 additional normal spacers, 1 band in the Negative air chamber and 200 PSI. Rebound is somewhere in the middle (haven't counted clicks) but room both ways for adjustment.

I'm 185 pounds, probably over 190 with gear. My local trails are loose over hard with some rocks but mostly a lot of braking bumps and chatter, 6-12 foot doubles with transition and a few small drops. As mentioned I haven't bottomed it out yet, ring has about another 4-5mm to go which I'm fine with. If I don't use full travel when I go to a bike park I'll probably remove a spacer.

Over all super happy with the set up, bike feels so much better. When I bought the bike I knew the rear end set up was going to be a challenge (but I got a great deal on it) and bought the Super Deluxe with plans on sending it to Avalanche but with the MegNeg I think I'm happy enough to run it for the time being. I'll probably still send it to Avalanche when it is ready for a rebuild, would be curious what Craig would think of the MegNeg, I know he is big on dampening control vs air spring ramp.

Also for reference I ran it initially with 2 bands in the Negative chamber and it felt good but I wanted a little more small bump compliance, I then ran it with no bands and it felt kind of vague off the top and seemed to just slump into the sag. With 1 band it feels really good. I think the upside with the MegNeg is a lot of riders will be able to have room for more adjustment to get the rear feeling how they like it.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Anybody see any info on the 2020 Foxy? I saw a picture, but no info other than they tweaked a few things. Be interesting to see what exactly they changed.


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## badbietz (Jul 11, 2007)

Info is on their website, looks like same frame just updated colors (thank god), chainstay protector and spec. Also no XR Coil version just an RR SL instead.

There is the new Super Foxy which is a totally new bike.

Example
https://www.mondraker.com/uk/en/2020-foxy-carbon-rr


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

badbietz said:


> I just finished dialing in a Rock Shox Super Deluxe RC3 with MegNeg air can on my Foxy. I was running the Fox DPX2 at 170psi with a .86 volume spacer (yes Fox says not to install it).
> 
> After a few rides I'm really happy with the Super Deluxe with MegNeg, the rear feels much more composed (the shock is noticeably bigger), better traction, more small bump sensitivity and I have yet to bottom it out.
> 
> ...


So the shock is a 205mm overall length?

Good stuff right? I love the suspension on my Foxy but then from day one it was on an Avy Superdeluxe.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

badbietz said:


> A lot of the front triangle geo measurements look the same, it also says optional 0deg headset cups so wonder if it ships with the angle set to give it 65deg head angle. If the front triangle is the same it would be interesting if you can fit the links to a regular Foxy 29 to change the leverage curve. Also the shock is 210x65 to get the 160mm travel.
> 
> It's also Super Boost 157 and looks like longer adjustable chainstay as well 440-450.


The Super Foxy is 65mm before the headset. 
I think it's close but technically a different frame.

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

badbietz said:


> Info is on their website, looks like same frame just updated colors (thank god), chainstay protector and spec. Also no XR Coil version just an RR SL instead.
> 
> Example
> https://www.mondraker.com/uk/en/2020-foxy-carbon-rr


Thanks for the link. I didn't see it on their site the last time I looked. It is interesting to see that all the bikes now use the DPX2 rear shock. I know a lot of you have upgraded or complained about the rear shock, but I haven't had any issues with the DPX2 on my R.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

There is a place called Amachete Components in Spain that has the 10mm roller bearing for the lower shock mount for the Foxy 29. I just ordered 1, plus the press tool, shipped for about $51 after the Euro conversion.

I'll let you guys know how it goes. I love my Foxy but was starting to seriously consider the EXT rear shock to try and get a little more rear sensitivity but was not keen on the money spent nor the .7# of gained weight so am trying this first.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Also having some new wheels built utilizing Carbon Fan wheels with an AM layup up front 33mm ID 28 spokes & DH layup rear 29mm ID 32 spoke, using some new Project 321 hubs with ceramic bearings, and black BERD spokes. Lastly I'm trying some of these new Tubo Light 70 gram rim inserts over my current Pepi's inserts.

All in, using the same hubs my current set up has, I'll save nearly 1# rotating weight so that should be quite noticeable.


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## Demorider8 (Apr 15, 2019)

Hi guys! Soon I will need to change tires, with my last bike I always used minion dhf 2.5 front and back and usually when the back tire was too slick I would just buy a new one for the front and use the rest of rubber of the front tire in the back. But given the limited tire clearance of the foxy I'm not sure I can fit a 2.5 dhf in there.
What tire combo are you guys using?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=23347&share_type=t&link_source=app

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Lower shock roller bearing kit is on, shipped from Spain. Heck they included enough spare parts I could do another Foxy from the parts. 
Can't ride the bike because my dropper is removed currently but the bounce test you can certainly feel less stiction. Whether that is better or not for peddaling efficiency, I can't say. 
I'll report back with a ride report next week.









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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

So I finally received a new cable today to repair my dropper and was able to pedal around my Foxy with the Amachete lower link bearing just around the 'hood.

What I can say was that when I added the bottom and top bearing to my previous Yeti the rear shock really lost all stiction and it felt like I actually lost efficiency. I did prefer it overall but in the same way one prefers a coil shock, with trade offs.

With this mod on the Foxy at only the lower mount of the shock, the harshness that I use to experience on curb drops is gone and the shock is definitely quicker responding to sharp impacts and the jarring sensation is gone.

However it doesn't feel wallowy when pedaling. This was the right move for me as opposed to going to an EXT coil shock. It saved a lot of money and a lot of weight and besides the previous feeling of initial stiction I really like my Avy tuned RT3.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Had a good day and was able to ride the shock needle bearing on my air shock. It's a much less extreme difference than it was when I did the same at both ends of the shock on my Yeti.

All it does is get rid of the initial slap down harshness I use to get on my rear suspension. No other differences that I can tell at all.

It gave me exactly what I wanted, no more, no less. Worth the $50 for sure. That was all that I wanted out of a coil shock I was considering, just to soften that initial jolt and adding this bearing to my air shock did that with none of the downsides of a coil (i.e. weight, cost, lack of progression).


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

^^^^
Good to hear. I will have to look into the bearing this winter when I take the frame apart for maintenance.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I built some sweet wheels with Berd spokes. DH layup rear, wider up front, P321 hubs.

The cool thing is my large Foxy 29 weighs right at 27.4#s (before pedals, bash guard, and tools are installed) and that includes Avy cartridges and tire inserts front and rear. It weighs exactly 30.1# ready to ride with CO2 cartridges, pump, tools, pedals, etc. The thing pedals like a XC bike and descends like a DH bike. I really like this bike!


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> The cool thing is my large Foxy 29 weighs right at 27.4#s (before pedals, bash guard, and tools are installed) and that includes Avy cartridges and tire inserts front and rear. It weighs exactly 30.1# ready to ride with CO2 cartridges, pump, tools, pedals, etc. The thing pedals like a XC bike and descends like a DH bike. I really like this bike!


27+ is light! I'm hoping to get mine closer to 30 after the winter rebuild.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Professed said:


> the MSC tires which may not be available in the USA are fast rolling. Try a Gripper in 2C compound. Great dry weather 'Enduro' tyre. They run big. Don't let sizing fool. A 2.3 MSC Gripper is bigger than a 2.5 WT Maxxis.


It took a while for me to really warm up to the MSC Gripper. Due to high summer heat (forecast says 97 degrees tomorrow, right before our 1st cold front of Fall) I wasn't riding as fast for a while there. Lately I've acclimated and my pace is fast and comparing the MSC back to back with the Eliminator it isn't even close, I much prefer the MSC. It has incredible grip, no dead spot, and is a perfectly rounded 2.5" width tire (labeled as a 2.3).
It rolls pretty slowly however, on par with a DHF 2.5 3c or maybe a bit slower, but is a better all around tire for me.
I'm going to experiment with the Tioga Edge-22 & the Maxxis Dissector but as of right now, I think the MSC Gripper is my preferred front tire. 
Thanks for the suggestion!

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

New chain slap thing I just recieved today.









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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Is that for the Super Foxy? How did you order it?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Qarv sent it to me. They just received them. 

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

For those that are curious, Qarv is selling the chain stay protectors for $25.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

The new chain-stay protector definitely quiets things down.


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## Demorider8 (Apr 15, 2019)

How many/what size of volume spacer/s are you guys using on your suspension and shock?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I don't have stock suspension on my Foxy, but the LR is regressive near the end stroke so if you do any jumps or anything I'd load the shock up with volume spacers. 

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## Demorider8 (Apr 15, 2019)

Yap, I have the stock dpx2 and I find it too easy to bottom out, I don't bottom out often but I do chose the jumps I do.. I avoid doing bigger or rough landing ones because of this


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Add volume spacers. 
I use all of my rear travel most rides with an Avy tuned Superdeluxe and 1 volume reducer but have never felt it. 
Max 5' drops and some decent sized but smooth jumps. 

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

I bottom out the stock DPX2, but I never notice that I do it on the trail. I believe the stock shock comes with a preinstalled spacer, but another can be added.


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## Demorider8 (Apr 15, 2019)

I think that the tuning set contains 5 spacers with the following volumes: 0.2 inch3, 0.4 inch3, 0.6 inch3, 0.86 inch3 and 1.02 inch3.
The stock one is the 0.6inch3. I'll probably try and change the stock one for the 0.86inch3 and try it. Probably I'll do it in the next maintenance.. Anyone using the 0.86? And the 36 I'll probably add one more spacer too, I like how the suspension feel but I'd like them to me more progressive at the end


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## Demorider8 (Apr 15, 2019)

Bad news, I just saw in ridefox website that for 205x62.5 trunnion the biggest volume spacer that can be used is the stock one, 0.6inch3. For jumps there is no other option besides pumping some more pressure.. This is a bummer..


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

If your going to keep the bike, search for a used Superdeluxe RT3 from an '18 Devinci Spartan and send it to Avalanche. 
Or call up RS and concoct a story, it got lost in thise mail or something. 
Maybe a Devinci store can order you one?
I love my Foxy but dealing with the suspension decisions that Mondraker made was paramount to me. 

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Demorider8 said:


> Bad news, I just saw in ridefox website that for 205x62.5 trunnion the biggest volume spacer that can be used is the stock one, 0.6inch3. For jumps there is no other option besides pumping some more pressure.. This is a bummer..


I'm pretty sure somebody has already added more spacers than recommended with success. It was either in this thread or elsewhere, but it does exist on the interwebs somewhere.


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## Demorider8 (Apr 15, 2019)

You can add them, but this is what fox says about using them: "WARNING: Never use an air spring volume spacer of a specific size with certain length, travel, and eyelet combinations, as shown by "DNU" in the table below. With these combinations, the resulting compression ratio goes beyond the bounds of safe product usability. With the spike of excessive air pressure the air sleeve can suddenly fail, causing potential property damage, SERIOUS INJURY, OR DEATH"
I will not risk it..


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## badbietz (Jul 11, 2007)

I ran a .86 for a couple of months in my Fox before I switched to a Super Deluxe with MegNeg air can (highly recommend). 

I'm 190lbs and think I was running around 175psi or maybe a little more. I spoke to a suspension tuning shop and they said as long as you are not near max PSI it shouldn't be an issue. 

I believe the logic is as follows. For example the Fox site states that a .6 volume spacer gives you a compression ratio of 3.81, if you are are running max PSI which I think is 350 PSI that would come to a fully compressed PSI of 1,333.5 (3.81X350). 

Between the different spacers .4 to .6 you gain a Compression Ration of around .4 but lets go crazy and say the .86 gives you a 4.81 CR, at 200 PSI that would be a fully compressed PSI of 962 (4.81X200) well below the 1,333.5. 

I would assume Fox put this chart together taking into consideration max PSI. If you are not near that I think you have some room to play around, of course you are on your own warranty wise and use at your own risk and all of that. It felt better to me with no issues to report YMMV.


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## badbietz (Jul 11, 2007)

If anyone is dealing with cable rattle in the down tube I would recommend this TechFlex braided cable sleeve. It is split so you can wrap it around the cable and feed it through the frame holes little by little with no need to remove any cables. I put it on my brake hose, derailleur cable and dropper cable and don't hear them anymore. Best $10 I've spent.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085CJ4RK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## Gratefulone (May 27, 2016)

Mike2MTB said:


> Wow! Just had the chance to demo ride the Foxy RR. Fun bike.
> 
> View attachment 1253377
> 
> ...


What's your other top 5 please? Thx


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

I tried a Forbidden Druid. I'm selling my XL Foxy 29 soon. I'm based in Perth, WA. Any suggestions where to post for sale other than eBay?


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

danlovesbikes said:


> I tried a Forbidden Druid. I'm selling my XL Foxy 29 soon. I'm based in Perth, WA. Any suggestions where to post for sale other than eBay?


MTBR classifieds, PinkBike, etc.,

I'm loving my Druid but am in the market for a longer travel bike... I'm a Medium/Large and have been eyeing the new Super Foxy29


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

cheezwhip said:


> MTBR classifieds, PinkBike, etc.,
> 
> I'm loving my Druid but am in the market for a longer travel bike... I'm a Medium/Large and have been eyeing the new Super Foxy29


Thanks mate, let us know if you pull the trigger on one!


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

You guys should swap!

Tell us about what you prefer with the Druid, no hard feelings here and the Druid looks amazing.

The Foxy is killer but the OEM rear suspension choice lets it down and has to be rectified to get the full potential of the bike. 

There might be marginally better bikes as new models are released, but I like my Foxy enough that I intend to ride it for many years so I took the time (and money) to get it exactly how I wanted. 

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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

Suns_PSD said:


> You guys should swap!
> 
> Tell us about what you prefer with the Druid, no hard feelings here and the Druid looks amazing.
> 
> ...


I know, need an XL though! The Foxy is awesome, I will keep it probably until early next year.

The Druid had a few interesting ride characteristics that seemed to fit what I was looking for in a bike. So I don't get a lot air but due to the lengthening of the wheelbase it seems to add stability on landings which I liked. Also the same kinematics means it powers through repeated square edged hits and fast rock gardens and holds momentum well.

It pedals with just about the most stability of any bike I've ridden. It doesn't squirt forward but is efficient and firm. There were so many things I liked it would make it look like I was advertising for Forbidden of I carried on listing them! Needless to say it was a joy to ride for a couple of days.

Cheers


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## xavierp (Jan 18, 2011)

Interesting!

I'm a guerrilla Gravity Fanboy, but I'm considering leaving the brand next season, and the Druid is on the top of my list (basically waiting for my revved smash to be sold to get the frame). I also demoed the Foxy 29 last year, and it's second on my list 

How would you compare the acceleration between the Druid and the Foxy, and say, a horst link FSR or 4 bar linkage? That's what shocked me the most on the foxy. It just accelerates by itself, pedaling is super efficient, and pushing on the pedals makes it move forward. Would you say the druid, has a similar snappy feeling? Or feels more average? You say it powers through square edges, which is good! But it could mean it feels a bit sluggish elsewhere (maybe).

Thanks.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

I'm planning on keeping the Druid - it's going to stay as my uber capable shorter travel trail bike that punches way above its weight class but I'm still wanting a big travel Enduro sled to complement the Druid.

If Forbidden had a 150-160mm travel bike, I'd already have it. The suspension is Yeti-esque in pedalling efficiency and Knolly-esque in climbing traction. Between the 29r wheels and the rearward axle path, I just don't get hung up on stuff I would've in the past with a 130mm travel bike.

That Druid efficiency "feels" muted compared to the mini link designs though - does not feel like you're squirting forward but you really are... difficult to describe. 

In any event, the Foxy was on my list for deep travel bike - not keen on the SuperBoost though.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

cheezwhip said:


> I'm planning on keeping the Druid - it's going to stay as my uber capable shorter travel trail bike that punches way above its weight class but I'm still wanting a big travel Enduro sled to complement the Druid.
> 
> If Forbidden had a 150-160mm travel bike, I'd already have it. The suspension is Yeti-esque in pedalling efficiency and Knolly-esque in climbing traction. Between the 29r wheels and the rearward axle path, I just don't get hung up on stuff I would've in the past with a 130mm travel bike.
> 
> ...


Yeah I would agree with all of that.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

The Foxy isn't superboost.
Maybe the Super Foxy is?

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## xavierp (Jan 18, 2011)

danlovesbikes said:


> Yeah I would agree with all of that.


Thanks, both of you guys.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

xavierp said:


> Interesting!
> 
> I'm a guerrilla Gravity Fanboy, but I'm considering leaving the brand next season, and the Druid is on the top of my list (basically waiting for my revved smash to be sold to get the frame). I also demoed the Foxy 29 last year, and it's second on my list
> 
> ...


I did write a detailed response but it didn't publish. Basically I feel that you lose no efficiency on the Druid compared to the foxy, but the suspension performance generally is more suited to fast rocky trails, jumps etc.

I also like the anti-rise because we have steep trails here. It is also handy as I'll often brake into corners (who doesn't..) and this keeps the bike very stable in those situations.

Cheers


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

I know many of us have put riser bars on our bikes, and some of us have slacked out the front with the adjustable headset cups... 

Anybody have any thoughts on putting 170mm fork on the front? It seems that it would help to increase the stack, and slack out the front a 1/2 degree while giving 10mm more travel. For me, this is just a hypothetical thought since I hardly use the full 160mm I have now.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I'm finding myself riding really far forward on the saddle on my Foxy, with the seat already slid far forward. 
Just not willing to slack the STA out any more.
The 27.5" rear end with the fork dropped to 150mm sounds more appealing to me honestly. 

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> I'm finding myself riding really far forward on the saddle on my Foxy, with the seat already slid far forward.
> Just not willing to slack the STA out any more.
> The 27.5" rear end with the fork dropped to 150mm sounds more appealing to me honestly.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


Interesting. My saddle is semi forward. I probably should ride farther over the bars than I do currently.

Don't know if this interests you, but 9point8 makes a dropper post with a 25mm forward offset head.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I think that dropper is a good solution for an old school bike that's maybe 1-2 sizes too large for the rider. But would mess up too much else on the Foxy.
Also, I'm going to bump up to a 40 or 45mm stem on my Foxy to try and weight the front end a bit more. At 5'11" but with long arms the cockpit actually feels just a hair tight on my Large Foxy.

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

I'll be interesting to hear your input on the longer stem. The only time that I really feel that I'm not forward enough is on really steep climbs, and when I'm hitting bigger jumps.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

This is really a slick cable management idea from the new Foxy E- bike. Maybe it's only possible due to the larger steerer tube on the new e- bikes?
Would love to incorporate this in to my Foxy 29.









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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Had a very solid first ride on a 40mm stem on my Foxy 29 (previously on a 35).
Very noticable difference both in how much more weight I had on my hands, and notably more traction up front. 
For the first time my Foxy truly was balanced for me thru the turns. Was really not touching the brakes entering and thru long fast turns and could completely trust the front end to stick. For the first time the bike didn't understeer or if it did it was very minor. 
Still love my Foxy but I think their super short stems are a flawed idea (along with their coil shocks). Would be fun to try a 45mm stem as well but I'm in a very comfortable place on the bike physically and don't feel like dropping another $80 to test a different stem. 
My best guess is the stem they include on the Foxy builds should perfectly match the fork offset they offer, if they want to truly optimize performance. 

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## lost it (Jun 24, 2008)

Has anyone tried taking out the spacer from the rear Shock to get the full 65mm and a bit more travel?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

lost it said:


> Has anyone tried taking out the spacer from the rear Shock to get the full 65mm and a bit more travel?


I've heard (from Qarv) that it's rear tire size dependent. Because of flex under extreme loads, a large tire might rub, where smaller tire might not.
You could remove all of the shock air and collapse it and look and see how much clearance it appears that you have to work with. Could probably also just remove the shock and sort of visualize that extra 2.5 mm.
Report back!

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

My sole complaint about my Foxy is that limited rear tire clearance means that picking up leaves and them getting stuck between the tire and the chainstays during Fall riding is a constant, and quite annoying.


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Just picked up a XL yellow RR for a great price. Currently have a flu so just admiring it on the balcony...

Also this time of the year sun set’s around 2pm and trails are partially frozen (but not enough to justify studded tires) so might wait for proper snow.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Best color for sure. 

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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Has anyone checked what ratchet is in the included E1700 wheelset? Is it the standard 18t model?


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## embi (Nov 26, 2018)

lost it said:


> Has anyone tried taking out the spacer from the rear Shock to get the full 65mm and a bit more travel?


On the aluminium model it works just fine, but on the carbon there is not enough space.



dropadrop said:


> Has anyone checked what ratchet is in the included E1700 wheelset? Is it the standard 18t model?


Yes 18T is standard for DT350 mounted on DT E1700.


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## embi (Nov 26, 2018)

Suns_PSD said:


> My sole complaint about my Foxy is that limited rear tire clearance...


That's why i sold it and bought the aluminum version.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

embi said:


> That's why i sold it and bought the aluminum version.


Eager to know about any all differences that you noticed between these 2 models including:

1) Weight difference.
2) Ride feel difference/ Most important!
3) Clearance and suspension differences.
4) Anything else you can think of.

Thanks


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## embi (Nov 26, 2018)

*Foxy Carbon vs Foxy Aluminum*


*Weight *- the bike is noticeably heavier. Clocks almost 16kg with an air shock. 
*Ride feel* - better than the carbon IMO, the rear end is stiffer due to larger brace connecting the triangles, also the reach is 5mm longer 
*Clearance *- there is much better clearance for larger tyres and mud a reason why the carbon bike is unrideable for me 
*Suspension *- similar feeling, but you can run 65 stroke shock without any issues 
*Protection *- the paint wears more easily than on the carbon version and there is _zero _protection for lower link and shock (mud and debris). Also no chainstay protection and you can't mount bashguard on the bike. 

I sadly have to say, that the Mondraker Foxy (both AL and carbon), are not a good bikes from a technical standpoint. But once you're on the trail, you forget it, because the bikes just rides amazingly well.

The SuperFoxy fixes many issues of the Foxy and takes the best from both bikes


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

dubthang said:


> Anybody see any info on the 2020 Foxy? I saw a picture, but no info other than they tweaked a few things. Be interesting to see what exactly they changed.


When I picked up my 2019 the dealer mentioned that they would have changed the valving of the shock for 2020 so it would work better with the frame.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

For those looking for more rear tire clearance, I wonder if the aluminum rear end would swap onto the carbon front?


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Did anyone prefer an X2 as shock? Saw one cheap second hand and wondering if I should pick it up... Only had two brief rides up to now so did not finnish tuning the stock shock but likely the X2 will be sold before I know if I like this or not..


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## tibowski (Jan 9, 2014)

My friend taken one from Superfoxy. totally changed suspension from hate to love.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

The air shock sizes that the Foxy utilizes are becoming more commonly available as they are oem fitment on several new bikes. A couplel for sale used on PB right now. 
I'm going to be experimenting with a Meg Neg on my RT3 very soon, unfortunately I broke some ribs in a bike crash so I'll be off for a bit and it'll be a bit before I can experiment. 

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> I broke some ribs in a bike crash so I'll be off for a bit and it'll be a bit before I can experiment.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


Bummer! Hope you have a fast recovery.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

dubthang said:


> Bummer! Hope you have a fast recovery.


For sure I'll bounce back quick. 
Have a family ski trip in 3 weeks so just managing nutrition well and protecting the injured ribs (2 are fractured) until then. 
Thanks for the kind words.

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## mrallen (Oct 11, 2017)

Suns_PSD said:


> For sure I'll bounce back quick.
> Have a family ski trip in 3 weeks so just managing nutrition well and protecting the injured ribs (2 are fractured) until then.
> Thanks for the kind words.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


That sucks. Those XC rides are sneaky bad.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

mrallen said:


> That sucks. Those XC rides are sneaky bad.


Got me on a night ride at Travis Country. Was following a guy, was completely turned around and didn't recognize where we were at, he rolled a ledge and I followed, turns out it was a decent vertical drop and over the bars I went! First crash in a long time.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Not shopping, but just curious why the Super Foxy was announced 6 months ago yet has not been reviewed or released yet. Seems like a very large gap to me. 

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## shakazulu12 (Jul 14, 2015)

Suns_PSD said:


> Not shopping, but just curious why the Super Foxy was announced 6 months ago yet has not been reviewed or released yet. Seems like a very large gap to me.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


I have been wondering this same thing. Especially when they seem to be showing up in the hands of riders on their social media platform.


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## embi (Nov 26, 2018)

Suns_PSD said:


> Not shopping, but just curious why the Super Foxy was announced 6 months ago yet has not been reviewed or released yet. Seems like a very large gap to me.


What do you mean by released? My mates have been riding the Foxy for 2 months now.


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## mrallen (Oct 11, 2017)

Suns_PSD said:


> Got me on a night ride at Travis Country. Was following a guy, was completely turned around and didn't recognize where we were at, he rolled a ledge and I followed, turns out it was a decent vertical drop and over the bars I went! First crash in a long time.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


That sucks. Glad it wasn't worse. Same thing happened to Willie over there following me a little while ago. He didn't break anything, but that is just luck when you are falling into rocks.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

embi said:


> What do you mean by released? My mates have been riding the Foxy for 2 months now.


The Super Foxy? Reports?

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I added a Meg-Neg to my RT3. It clears. Because I have broken ribs I won't get a real ride for a month but I can tell you that riding off a curb seated it's notably less harsh than it was before. I pedaled a bit hard on pavement and noticed no bob, however I'm not exactly pounding it at the moment.
I started with the max number of negative spacers simply because I was weary of losing the pedaling efficiency that I adore so much on this bike.









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## mellymelson (Dec 2, 2013)

Hey all, long time lurker first time poster to this thread. I'm selling a brand new 2019 Foxy Carbon 29, RR (yellow and orange) size Large. Might have seen it on a few classifieds lately. 

I have a few options for complete builds (stock and significantly upgraded) and am willing to mix / match parts around a price point within reason. Get in touch if interested, thanks!


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## mellymelson (Dec 2, 2013)

I also have two needle bearings from Amachette I need to part with, both brand new never installed. $25 each


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

mellymelson said:


> I also have two needle bearings from Amachette I need to part with, both brand new never installed. $25 each


Sorry to hear you are selling it. Weren't you just collecting parts for this build?

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## mellymelson (Dec 2, 2013)

I was, but circumstances have changed for me...Hate to see this beautiful bike go, but hope it finds a good home soon


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Well the yellow is my favourite color. Hope it sells for ya. They are rare and not particularly popular bikes but I adore mine.
Did you get a sponsored ride on another brand or something?

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## mellymelson (Dec 2, 2013)

I digg the yellow, too. Perfect match for the Factory orange Fox forks. Yes, I got picked up by another brand for this season. Had some great results with the Foxy in 2019 though.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Suns_PSD said:


> I added a Meg-Neg to my RT3. It clears. Because I have broken ribs I won't get a real ride for a month but I can tell you that riding off a curb seated it's notably less harsh than it was before. I pedaled a bit hard on pavement and noticed no bob, however I'm not exactly pounding it at the moment.
> I started with the max number of negative spacers simply because I was weary of losing the pedaling efficiency that I adore so much on this bike.
> 
> 
> ...


Am I the only guy running a RS Superdeluxe on a Foxy? I have a spare new take off Superdeluxe from a 2020 E29 by the way if someone is in a pinch, never ridden but it would need to go to Avy to have the stroke adjusted.

Anyways, I broke 2 ribs and possibly punctured a lung 3 weeks ago so needless to say I have not been riding and had not tested out the Meg-Neg yet.

I have went on light duty XC short pedal rides 2x this week trying to get my legs back and frankly trying to unseize my back which locks up when I'm stationary for more than a couple of days.

Basically removed one volume reducer in the positive side down to 2, and used all 4 (the max) bands in the negative chamber which is the setup that makes the Meg-Neg addition as close to how the shock was before by reducing the larger negative chamber as much as possible and keeping the ratio of pos to neg chambers pretty similar as it is with a standard chamber. That said, even like this the Negative chamber is 67% larger than stock! I did this because I either really like, or am just really use to the Foxy's rear suspension and was afraid to make a large change that would negatively effect pedaling performance. It took about 40 psi more shock pressure to get the same sag because of the additional neg volume.

To reiterate these were light duty rides due to recent injury, however I can clearly feel some, not so subtle changes. Basically the shock is more plush off the top, but it's not like a coil shock. It's just an initial jolt that I'm use to is gone. It's super noticeable just riding off the curb while seated. That said if I removed all 4 negative bands and had the negative chamber 111% larger than stock it would be a lot more like a coil I imagine.

The even larger difference is in the shock's midrange. The bike seems to sit way higher when just pedaling around, way more supportive. Really, it feels like I now need more sag but since I'm riding XC terrain anyways, it's too soon to make any adjustments until I get back to my usual speed. That said it needs more sag. But then I wasn't riding with my usual Hydration pack and I've actually lost 7# since the accident so this air pressure might be ideal in another month.

ShockWiz says everything is perfect except HSC is a bit too stiff, which frankly is something that SW always says about Avy tunes (and I mostly agree). But I'm only using 70% of travel so I'll update once I get some harder rides on the bike.


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## badbietz (Jul 11, 2007)

Suns_PSD said:


> ShockWiz says everything is perfect except HSC is a bit too stiff, which frankly is something that SW always says about Avy tunes (and I mostly agree). But I'm only using 70% of travel so I'll update once I get some harder rides on the bike.


How did you mount your ShockWiz with the MegNeg can?

I'm running a Super Deluxe from a Reign with a MegNeg (215 PSI, 1 band in neg chamber, 3.5 in positive)


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

badbietz said:


> How did you mount your ShockWiz with the MegNeg can?
> 
> I'm running a Super Deluxe from a Reign with a MegNeg (215 PSI, 1 band in neg chamber, 3.5 in positive)


I'm pretty weight weenie but I won't sacrifice performance to save weight. 
Weighed my large Foxy as I ride it with 1000g tires, inserts, real hubs, 203mm front rotor with 4 piston caliper, Avy cartridges, Meg-Neg, tools/ pump/ CO2, bash guard, SW, water bottle cage and pedals and it's sitting at 30.2#s. Darn that is impressive for a bike this capable.









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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

badbietz said:


> I'm running a Super Deluxe from a Reign with a MegNeg (215 PSI, 1 band in neg chamber, 3.5 in positive)


I'm running 4 bands in the negative chamber at 192 psi @ 180#s, and the rear suspension has a ton of midrange support which I like. It's not bad or anything but any more mid range firmness and I'd think it would feel like a 100mm XC race machine instead of an Enduro bike. Did you try different numbers of bands? Thoughts on different combos?
If you have a debonair in a RS fork, there's a black rubber bumper in the negative chamber that you can remove and it notably increases the negative chamber volume and has a very similar effect on the forks as you get with the Meg-Neg in the shock and increases mid range support. That I REALLY like. I had to up my fork pressure from like 92psi to 110 with this one change.

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## samperg (Jul 7, 2016)

Has anyone fitted a 2.4 on the back of the aluminum model? I am thinking Michelin Wild enduro or something similar. Stock 30 mm rims does it roll without any rubs?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

samperg said:


> Has anyone fitted a 2.4 on the back of the aluminum model? I am thinking Michelin Wild enduro or something similar. Stock 30 mm rims does it roll without any rubs?


I've commonly ran Schwalbe 2.35s which measure about 2.42" on my CF Foxy, and the Al version has additional clearance. I don't see you having a problem here.

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## Demorider8 (Apr 15, 2019)

I'm using 2.4 dhr2 in my carbon foxy and so far no rub at all.


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## aljocha (Jul 29, 2019)

Hello guys. sorry my english.
I have a foxy 29 RR, has anyone ever brought the fork to 170?
the handlebar has 20mm, do you recommend 30 or 35? thanks


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I haven't seen any Foxy's ran at 170mm.

I run my stem as low as possible to extend effective top tube length and utilize a 35mm riser bar on a large Foxy. 

Good luck. 

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## aljocha (Jul 29, 2019)

Suns_PSD said:


> I haven't seen any Foxy's ran at 170mm.
> 
> I run my stem as low as possible to extend effective top tube length and utilize a 35mm riser bar on a large Foxy.
> 
> ...


What do u think, upgrade fork 170mm?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

aljocha said:


> What do u think, upgrade fork 170mm?


I guess that depends on my goals and body weight.

My personal opinion is that single crown forks already flex too much at 160mm. And for my needs and usage a 160mm is just fine.

So 170mm just exacerbates this problem. But also it's damaging to your geo. Seat tube becomes slacker, BB becomes higher, etc... Certainly won't need those tall bars if you go the 170mm single crown fork route.

If I felt I needed more fork travel on my Foxy I'd either:

a.) move up to a Superfoxy. Or...
b.) Purchase a 170mm MRP Bartlett. The Bartlett is dual crown which fixes the flex problem, but also due to the packaging advantages of a DC fork you can keep your Axle to Crown (A2C) measurement very nearly the same as a single crown 160 accomplishes, while getting your 170mm fork travel.

https://mrpbike.com/products/bartlett

The Bartlett at 170mm travel has 574mm A2C.

The Fox 36 at 160 travel has 570mm A2C.

That's pretty close.

I've heard rumors, but don't know for a fact, that you can run the 205 x 65mm shock on the Foxy instead of the as speced 205 x 62.5. They are identical shocks of course, just the slightly shorter stroke is obtained using an internal 2.5mm nylon washer. Removing that washer should get you 156mm rear travel.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

I really want to speak to one of our Foxy 29 owners about dropping their fork to a 150mm and running a 27.5" rear wheel. Who here is going to try that? I'm mostly trying to go faster/ longer on very rough trails so my goals lean towards that.


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## aljocha (Jul 29, 2019)

in reality it is only to try to raise it and open the degrees of 66.

I mounted a fox dhx2 205 x65 and it is ok


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

aljocha said:


> in reality it is only to try to raise it and open the degrees of 66.
> 
> I mounted a fox dhx2 205 x65 and it is ok


Run the 40mm rise Renthal bar, install a -1 headset.

Much better solution. In fact the -1 headset actually steepens your STA and drops your BB, although not by much in either case.

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

aljocha said:


> in reality it is only to try to raise it and open the degrees of 66.
> 
> I mounted a fox dhx2 205 x65 and it is ok


It is a lot cheaper to try a Wolftooth lower headset spacer (10mm) than it is to swap forks.

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/headset-related/products/wolf-tooth-lower-headset-cup-extender-zs-zero-stack


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

So running a 205x65 rear shock is intriguing. At full compression, I have roughly 7 mm between the tire and the seat tube. I know on hard bottom outs that this distance must be smaller. I wonder if the longer stroke will cause the tire to hit the seat tube?

Aljocha, do you have any pics of your shock aired out with the suspension fully compressed? I'd be interested in seeing just how much space there is between the tire and the seat tube.


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## RSparkVB4 (Sep 26, 2018)

mellymelson said:


> I also have two needle bearings from Amachette I need to part with, both brand new never installed. $25 each


PM sent!


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

RSparkVB4 said:


> PM sent!


I'd also take one for $25 shipped.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I'm effectively running my front fork as a 150mm travel fork as my front fork naturally sags 10mm and I'm not setting sag based on 160 any longer but based on 150 instead.

I'm an aggressive trail rider and I think I prefer the overall feel of the bike like this. It just seems really responsive and fast with great front end traction.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> I'm effectively running my front fork as a 150mm travel fork as my front fork naturally sags 10mm and I'm not setting sag based on 160 any longer but based on 150 instead.
> 
> I'm an aggressive trail rider and I think I prefer the overall feel of the bike like this. It just seems really responsive and fast with great front end traction.


Does it feel better because the stack is lower? The head angle is steeper? The fork performs better with more sag?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Not sure, heck maybe it's all in my head. 
The bike just feels very sporty, a bit firmer and steeper (even though I have the -1 headset installed), rigid and accurate, less floppy on climbs, and with really good front end traction. 
Not sure if all that is due to this 1 small change or if my entire set up is just now fully dialed for me. 
I know this, a replacement bike isn't even being considered, this one feels so right. 


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## samperg (Jul 7, 2016)

I am having near perfect setup, but in the very steep rolls the front end seems to disappear in to the distance  what should I do to this? body position? more stack height? already have a 35mm riser. More volume spacers in the fork? 0 atm because I feel like it works the best in the flatter rooty trails for me.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

samperg said:


> I am having near perfect setup, but in the very steep rolls the front end seems to disappear in to the distance  what should I do to this? body position? more stack height? already have a 35mm riser. More volume spacers in the fork? 0 atm because I feel like it works the best in the flatter rooty trails for me.


I personally think the 30mm stem is a no go. It's not about bike fit, it's about front end feel. 45-50mm stem is the sweet spot.

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

A bigger rise bar helps to keep the front end pointed straight on the climbs. Suns-PSD may be right in that a longer stem may be the way to go. Currently, I have a 50mm rise bar that rides quite nicely, but I prefer a higher stack.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I run a 35mm rise Oneup bar at 5'11" on a Large with 1 small spacer underneath. I'd run a 40mm rise bar if Oneup made one. 
I tried all the stem lengths from 30 to 60mm. I ended up keeping the 45 as my ideal. Comparatively the 30-35 length stems are pretty bad. The front of the bike (any bike really) won't stay in place and the bike understeers. Stem length is NOT just a fitment issue, it's much more than that. 

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

I have no idea how anybody was able to control the earlier Mondraker bikes that came with a 10mm stem.


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Anyone have opinions on wheels? Was thinking of saving some weight by replacing the E1700’s with a custom DT180/XM481 setup... With light spokes that ends up somewhere around 1650g.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I ordered hoops from Carbon Fan, P321 hubs, and then had them built up using Berd spokes. 
I did this because I was able to select every facet of the wheels from width, number of spokes, and lay up. And I made decisions separately for the front and rear based on this. They also came out extremely light, I forget how light but even with a rear downhill layup it was under 1450 as I recall. 
My total cost was right at $1500.

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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

I’m in Europe so slightly different market, but the basics probably are similar. I would be ordering the build from a shop known for doing good builds. 

I was considering aluminium as I don’t really want to be thinking of my rims when I should be thinking of my lines. I don’t do too much big jumps or drops, though there are some small ones here and there. I’m generally also quite light on my my wheels, never broke a set. But my trails are really rocky and I frequently scratch my rims, I assumed carbon might not like that?

I did find a set of 2020 DT Swiss XRC 1200 for a really good price. Those are only 25mm internal width, but could be strong enough for me (I noticed DT has bumped them up to ATSM3 and at the same time moved XMC1200 to ATSM4 so they might have more trust in them).


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

What’s that brake adapter in the back? Has anyone put a 160 disc on the rear, is it possible?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

The Foxy's arrive with a specific brake adaptor. 180mm is the only rear choice and appropriate for this application. 

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

dropadrop said:


> I'm in Europe so slightly different market, but the basics probably are similar. I would be ordering the build from a shop known for doing good builds.
> 
> I was considering aluminium as I don't really want to be thinking of my rims when I should be thinking of my lines. I don't do too much big jumps or drops, though there are some small ones here and there. I'm generally also quite light on my my wheels, never broke a set. But my trails are really rocky and I frequently scratch my rims, I assumed carbon might not like that?
> 
> I did find a set of 2020 DT Swiss XRC 1200 for a really good price. Those are only 25mm internal width, but could be strong enough for me (I noticed DT has bumped them up to ATSM3 and at the same time moved XMC1200 to ATSM4 so they might have more trust in them).


Spank and Newman make some of the lightest and strongest aluminum rims that you can affordably buy.


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## läski (Sep 3, 2017)

dropadrop said:


> I'm in Europe so slightly different market, but the basics probably are similar. I would be ordering the build from a shop known for doing good builds.


In Europe you can look for bargains at rczbikeshop. Bought xmc1200 (30mm) for my Foxy from there. But they are not really a shop, availability is sporadic and delivery may take 90 days..


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Thanks, I actually subscribe to their newsletter but have missed the XMC1200 every time. I also find the newsletter annoying, I ordered DT carbon wheels for my roadbike from them. Great price, but I still don’t have them almost 2 months later... 

I’m currently contemplating between EXC and XMC.


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## läski (Sep 3, 2017)

Make sure to subscribe to the French newsletter. It arrives always 1-2hours before the English one 

I sort of wish I would have gone with XRC1200, then the bike should have been just below 13kg. Now it is 13.2kg. Well, it is just a number


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

If I had the XRC series I think it would affect my riding. I was contemplating for long, and decided on the EXC 1200. I think it’s likely overkill, but still very light and should be ok even if I pick bad lines.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Tried my Foxy 29 L back to back on a local trail as a Mullet compared to standard. 
Effing despised the way it rode like that, which surprised me. 
Does look cool however!









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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Have any riders experimented with different size front chainrings? Not from a gearing standpoint but instead from a rear suspension behavior standpoint.

How does a 30, 32, 34T ring effect rear suspension performance? I've only ran a 32 but was kicking around some different gearing ideas.

Thx.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> Have any riders experimented with different size front chainrings? Not from a gearing standpoint but instead from a rear suspension behavior standpoint.
> 
> How does a 30, 32, 34T ring effect rear suspension performance? I've only ran a 32 but was kicking around some different gearing ideas.
> 
> Thx.


I shredded a tooth on my chain ring during this afternoon's ride. I think I have an oval to put on it, but have to check. I'll update with the results.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

dubthang said:


> I shredded a tooth on my chain ring during this afternoon's ride. I think I have an oval to put on it, but have to check. I'll update with the results.


Updates on this gearing experiment?

Also, does anyone recall what a bare large Foxy 29 frame weighs? Or with a shock or whatever?

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> Updates on this gearing experiment?
> 
> Also, does anyone recall what a bare large Foxy 29 frame weighs? Or with a shock or whatever?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


The oval is mounted, it is a 32t. I haven't ridden it yet. I hope to get out there this weekend.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I've been on a 32T oval ever since I built my Foxy so I don't know any different.

What I can see is that when the 32T oval is at it's largest, the chainline is about 5mm above the pivot, where on my wife's Foxy 27.5" running a 30T oval the chainline is directly in line with the upper pivot.

Comparing some online AS charts it looks like on most bikes reducing the front chain ring size by 2 teeth, essentially increases AS by about 22%, which is a LOT.

Lots of the most modern bikes are running around 125% AS and many are as high as 150%. The Foxy 29 is sitting around 108% (depends on the gear, sag, etc.) so although the Foxy feels super efficient to me, maybe it isn't in comparison to others. I dunno.

The only way know is to swap the front chainring and test. I'm also going to test a round 32T I have around here.

I'm also kicking around going to a Leonardo 9-48 cassette as I feel it's a better pairing with a 30T.

We'll see. Oh yah, I'm mega jacked up currently and can barely stand so I'm in no place to test any of this.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

That was an interesting experiment. I swapped from my usual 32T oval to a 30T oval I had (it was on my wife's bike so I swiped it) and even though it was not a proper test at all (just a mile of pavement and 100 yards of singletrack) the bike is CLEARLY more efficient like this. 
Will definitely experiment more and might even test the 28T.

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> That was an interesting experiment. I swapped from my usual 32T oval to a 30T oval I had (it was on my wife's bike so I swiped it) and even though it was not a proper test at all (just a mile of pavement and 100 yards of singletrack) the bike is CLEARLY more efficient like this.
> Will definitely experiment more and might even test the 28T.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


Just a thought here, but I wonder if this is because the widest part of a 32t is more like a 34t, and the widest part of a 30t is more like a 32t?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Well, a smaller front chain ring results in more anti-squat which is pretty much always a positive (up to a point) which also results in more pedal kick back which is always a negative and what these new high pivot bikes are exactly trying to solve. I don't know if pedal kick back really matters on a bike moving at a decent pace down a trail. 
Look where the top of your chain intersects with the suspension pivot. When the chain is below that point the chain has less leverage on the rear suspension. 
The problem with ovals (I suspect) is that when you are at your strongest, the ring is larger and AS is reduced and at your weakest AS is highest. At least round rings are consistent in this regard. 
I don't have a round 30 or 32 I could test unfortunately to decide if more stable AS is more important than the advantages of an Oval chainring. 
But one thing that remains true is that a smaller chainring increases relative AS on either a round or an oval. 
I tell you it was shocking how much more peppy my Foxy felt just swapping to a 30T from the 32T, both ovals. 
I also ordered a Leonardi 9-48 cassette today as I already found my Eagle 50T useless before. 

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Some random thoughts on this:

A 30t oval will allow the bike to ride as intended when the pedals are level. Great for downhills and flow.

A 30t oval will increase AS in fast corners when the pedals are vertical. Great for keeping the bike from compressing into the berm.

A 30t oval may help prevent energy loss on hill climbs as the suspension should bob less overall.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

AS only counters peddaling forces. No effect when not peddaling.

I rode today and even though I'm injured I could tell right away that the bike was standing up taller when peddaling. This has a real nice and noticeable effect as it maintains STA.
The suspension felt too stiff as well, but then I wasn't riding my normal trails and my entire body hurts so who knows. 

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## TylerVernon (Nov 10, 2019)

Yes, I have experimented with different chainrings but on a Mach 6. It seems a two tooth difference affects a.s. by about 5%. I went from a 30 to a 32 to get less a.s. and it's noticeable.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

TylerVernon said:


> Yes, I have experimented with different chainrings but on a Mach 6. It seems a two tooth difference affects a.s. by about 5%. I went from a 30 to a 32 to get less a.s. and it's noticeable.


How did you quantify the AS difference?
What was your reasoning behind wanting to reduce AS? Was it all about the pedal kick back or some other factor?
Thx

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## sean44 (Dec 10, 2018)

Interesting topic as a smaller chain ring will take it further away from the magic 100% anti squat number which i thought was the ideal pedal platform.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

sean44 said:


> Interesting topic as a smaller chain ring will take it further away from the magic 100% anti squat number which i thought was the ideal pedal platform.


It's not. If you powered your cranks with an electric drill rotating the crank spindle, then yes 100% would be ideal. However in reality the rider is bouncing up and down on the bike smashing down on the pedals. Also going up hills transfers weight back further sagging the suspension.

Of course anything over 100% is lifting the back end of the bike so too much might hurt you as well. Obviously you don't want your pedal strokes to be used to lift your ass an inch, so you want just enough to offset those other forces, and that's probably rider dependent.

A bike with say 80%-90% AS (i.e. Stumpjumper) feel like an inefficient bike. Several bikes float around that 95-110% (i.e. Canfield Balance, Foxy) and they generally feel darn good, but not amazing in the AS category. They seem to offer a good balance between Pedal kickback and AS. (PK and AS are directly related, can't get more of 1 without getting more of the other unless you go HP) 115% -150% AS is becoming the norm on the bikes that are considered the best pedaling bikes because it's enough to offset those additional downward pedaling forces. The new Enduro 29 runs about 122% for example which is why even though it's a heavy pig the E29 pedals better than the current SJ trailbike.

I never stop shopping for my next frameset, IMO it's not easy to beat the frame package that the Foxy offers. However one I am considering (comes with a significant weight penalty) is the Kavenz. The Kavenz is a high pivot bike that runs about 140% AS but doesn't suffer the pedal kickback that all normal bikes suffer when the AS really gets cranked up because of the HP. The result is it should pedal sort of like a XC bike with shitty tires.

I think with a 32 oval, the Foy 29 is running below the designed AS as it's effectively on a 34T when applying power.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

I'm able to go to a 28t on the Riot. My wife can go to 30t on her Wreckoning. IMHO there's a little kickback that can be barely noticeable and you can have more AS with a smaller ring. Granted more AS csn have you hanging up on technical climbs. Which is why some say 100% is the best compromise. I prefer a 30t in tech on my bike and 32 on my wife's. I don't notice a difference in desending. So it depends more on what we're climbing if that makes sense. I find the stock setting on Shimano derailure clutches have more of an impact on feel. Sram seems to have a better feel.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Talk to me about this hang up sensation?

When I rode my bike for the first time with a 30T oval yesterday it felt much harsher than usual. But I'm injured currently and everything hurts so wasn't sure what to make of it..

Why would rear suspension get hung up more due to more AS?

Thx


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

The rear suspension moving with terrain is technically a squat. Antisquat resits this. When you're climbing and hit a square rock you want the rear to move but not too much. With over 100% AS you tend to get more of a hardtail feeling in tech, sometimes even being stopped by something that you could ride. IMHO a 100% through out travel is better than 120% at sag that fall off in travel for climbing. Higher AS I find i stop pedaling when the rear hits somthing on a climb, vs i keep pedaling on a lower AS bike. There is too low as well that the bike sinks in travel. This is why I feel 100% is a sweet spot. On long fireroads I'd take a higher AS anytime. So I switch my chainring for certain rides.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Thanks for that. Makes sense.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

32t oval vs 32t round

Firstly, I run ovals on my ss and my fat bike. The Foxy R has been a round ring bike since I bought it (and the drivetrain and suspension are still stock). I prefer ovals. I took the bike out last night for some climbing and descending. The bike pedaled much better seated, but I assume that has more to do with the oval than it does the slightly larger radius of the ring in the power zone (less AS). That said, the bike does bob a bit more when standing while climbing. I did not really notice any difference when pointed downhill. I did set some PR's on Strava, but that doesn't mean much to me yet. I will need to replicate the results to show that there is an actual improvement. 

My next step it to order up a smaller oval. I will get either a 30t or a 28t. I am undecided, and will need to crunch some numbers.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

It's a good data point. 
The only comparison I have is 32 oval vs 30 oval and I much prefer the 30 as the bike feels notably more sprightly. Best I can tell as I recover from my accident, the suspension bump absorption is the same as always. That said, as I'm riding slowly now (my back and ribs are injured) my standard suspension setup is super stiff front and rear when used for casual riding. 
Regarding bob, I sort of like to sprint in a high gear on pavement, and look down between my legs at the rocker link as it's easy to see it move in contrast to the seat tube. By my eyes, the bob is more with the 30T oval. Still the bike feels better. 
Wish I had a 30 & 32 round to test but it's not in the cards at the moment. 
I do have a 28T oval on my wife's bike I could easily test but I'm pretty happy as is.
Also I swapped to a Leonardi 12sp 9-48 cassette. It shifts beautifully and I prefer the 533% range, the gear spreads, in a smaller cassette.









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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I might order some cheap round chain rings off Aliexpress just for testing purposes. 

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I've also noticed that to have a straight chain line on my Foxy, my bike needs to be in around 10th gear, where in reality I probably average closer to 5-7th gears on a typical trail ride. 
Running a smaller front chain ring is going to enable me to on average, have a straighter chain line, resulting in a net improvement in driveline efficiency. 

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> I've also noticed that to have a straight chain line on my Foxy, my bike needs to be in around 10th gear, where in reality I probably average closer to 5-7th gears on a typical trail ride.
> Running a smaller front chain ring is going to enable me to on average, have a straighter chain line, resulting in a net improvement in driveline efficiency.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


Would a BB30 style ring give you a better chain line? I used a BB30 direct mount oval on my Canfield to give me a perfect chainline with optimal chainstay clearance when running it as a single speed.


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## brigg (Jun 28, 2020)

I seem to be wearing out bearings in the zero link and the bottom shock bushing a hell of a lot more than on any of my previous bikes. Has anyone else has a similar issue and is there a way to mitigate it?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I've never even worked on mine besides running the roller bearing in the lower shock pivot. 
But I don't ride mud and hardly ever wash my bike. 

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

dubthang said:


> Would a BB30 style ring give you a better chain line? I used a BB30 direct mount oval on my Canfield to give me a perfect chainline with optimal chainstay clearance when running it as a single speed.


Don't think it would make a difference. It's not a bike specific thing, it's just the nature of boost chainrings, 12 speeds and the reality that plenty of my riding is just slogging along at lower speeds.

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## brigg (Jun 28, 2020)

I do live in the UK and it’s hardly ever dry so I suppose that’s probably why, but they still seem to have worn out a lot quicker than anything else I’ve owned. The feel of the bike far out weighs the extra few nights working on it anyway.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Got about 1000 feet of climbing in this weekend. The oval killed it, but I did pay more attention to the bob. It is definitely there on flat ground pedaling. I don't notice it going up. I only got one good day of riding in as it appears I wrecked a seal in the rear Hope brake. I need to buy a lighter crankset (current is NX) so that I can get a 30t oval for it.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I honestly learned on ovals cause it was one of the first items I ever purchased for a mtb.
Now you've got me wondering if there is something too this whole round ring thing  .
I'm sticking with my 30T oval for the time being. 

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> Now you've got me wondering if there is something too this whole round ring thing  .
> I'm sticking with my 30T oval for the time being.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


You should stick with it unless you want to put in more effort on the uphill climbs.


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## embi (Nov 26, 2018)

brigg said:


> I seem to be wearing out bearings in the zero link and the bottom shock bushing a hell of a lot more than on any of my previous bikes. Has anyone else has a similar issue and is there a way to mitigate it?


Yea the Mondraker Foxy is a not a bike to be ridden in any sort of wet conditions. The lower link is shaped like a cup, the rear bearings get a direct spray from rear wheel, the bottom shock bushing sees a lot of rotation... There is no real mud protection and the rear tire clearance is as bad as it can get.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Mine has lots of hours on it and I've done no maintenance at all on any linkage. 
Rear tire clearance is indeed poor.
Saw the new '21 Foxy's online. 
Much better suspension choices with air Ohlins on the top 2 specs. No coil shock to be seen. 
There is no bike that has been released that I'd prefer over my Foxy, although i continue to search. 

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## samperg (Jul 7, 2016)

embi said:


> Yea the Mondraker Foxy is a not a bike to be ridden in any sort of wet conditions. The lower link is shaped like a cup, the rear bearings get a direct spray from rear wheel, the bottom shock bushing sees a lot of rotation... There is no real mud protection and the rear tire clearance is as bad as it can get.


Luckily all of those lower bearings and bushing are super easy to change.


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## JohnnyPNW (Aug 24, 2020)

Picked up a demo 2019 Carbon Foxy today from my LBS. Thanks all for the informative discussion here. It's been ~25 years since my last favorite mountain bike (a Cannondale 'Beast of the East'). I was grinning ear-to-ear riding the Foxy around today and am looking forward to more.

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## redwoodum (Aug 25, 2020)

Hey guys, I've been lurking on this thread for a while and figured I'd share my experience as well. Similar to many of you!
I have about 1500 miles on my Medium carbon XR 29.

GX Eagle with a 32T chainring, 
Shimano XT 8120 trail brakes 180mm front and rear
DT Swiss XMC 1200 wheels. I have a 
50mm stem and 760mm bars (the stock 30mm is not for me)
I'm currently running the stock 66* head angle, but have spent most of the miles on the bike at 65*.
Lyrik Ultimate 160mm
Fox DPX2 with 0.86 token for added ramp up
Minion DHF 3C 2.5" front
Rekon DC 2.4" rear. As others have said, clearance is limited. The DHRII 2.4" was a royal pain with mud

A few notes that others have mentioned : the lower link absolutely murders bearings in the wet northeastern US. The DPX2 really is a poor fit to this bike, but I haven't gone further than that yet, but the 0.86 mod has helped a lot.
The bike is tremendously fast and functions very well at speed, up and down. It gets hung up and can behave a little oddly on technical sections and tightly spaced rock gardens.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I have a new take off RockShox air shock.
Buy it, send it to Avy, add the lower bearing kit and a MegNeg canister and the rear suspension is heavenly. 

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## samperg (Jul 7, 2016)

Just received amachette roller bearing kit for my foxy. Also sending rear shock to full service this week. I am hoping its plush after that 🙂. Bike is aluminum foxy 29 and its been ridden a lot.. it has 5000km of trail riding and little bike park on it and now it has started to eat rear shock bushings so I ordered roller bearings for it. All lower pivot bearings have also been changed once recently.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

The Foxy's with coil shocks all eat suspension bearings because they bottom so hard. 
Ive never had any issues with mine with the air shock. 

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

samperg said:


> Just received amachette roller bearing kit for my foxy. Also sending rear shock to full service this week. I am hoping its plush after that 🙂. Bike is aluminum foxy 29 and its been ridden a lot.. it has 5000km of trail riding and little bike park on it and now it has started to eat rear shock bushings so I ordered roller bearings for it. All lower pivot bearings have also been changed once recently.


My R appears to need a new bushing as well. It has been three seasons of riding though with very little maintenance. My original plan was to rebuild it last winter/spring, but Covid hit making some parts hard to get. I plan to pull it apart at the end of this season for a complete rebuild. Have been eyeing the Manitou Mezzer for the front, and will be swapping over to some Shimano drivetrain parts.


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## dwaharvey (Mar 3, 2008)

I've been riding my Foxy 29 Carbon since late 2018. Overall, I'm extremely happy with the bike, but am in the process of considering some changes. Here's the background.

My factory DPX2 shock with Mondraker's custom tune (XL digressive rebound, light compression, 0.6cu spacer) has seen some damage from rocks being flung into the shaft. On the ride where it happened, it caused a small burr that then wore a groove in the seal, and I lost all the pressure in the shock in the space of 5 mins before I realized what was happening. After limping home, I was able to fix it by replacing the seal, removing the burr, and adding some nail varnish that I then shaved with a razor. 
I weigh 158lbs and have been running the bike with 160psi in the shock, never bottomed it out, but am sometimes using most of the travel. But it's never felt quite as plush as I feel like it ought to. When I've used a shockwiz on it, I get a score of about 90. It wants me to reduce the low speed compression a click and also the high speed 2 clicks (which fits with my sense of lack of plushness), but on the DPX2 the latter isn't adjustable (it's the "light" setting Mondraker chose from the factory), and the former is backed off all the way. The bike pedals super efficiently even with the compression at this minimum. I never think about playing with the firm-switch. 

I've been thinking about switching the shock out for a Float X2. It has a bit of a weight penalty, but it's down low so not such a big deal. It seems to me that the orientation of the air can on the X2 will keep the more sensitive shaft and it's finish higher up and more safe from debris than the DPX2, and avoid the issue I ran into...? Also from general comments you read about the two, the X2 is supposed to make bikes feel more plush and planted which is in line with the change I'm seeking.
Would love to get your thoughts on the above, and also whether an X2 needs to be tuned to more closely match the stock tune or not (an off-the shelf DPX2 for instance would have higher compression damping and not be adjustable to get to where the one that came with the bike is)? Also the X2 only comes in 205/65 but I believe I can make a 2.5mm plastic spacer to reduce the travel down?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Superdeluxe with Megneg canister and needle bearings. Just as efficient but the harshness goes away.


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## dwaharvey (Mar 3, 2008)

Seems like that's a (good) option also. But the X2 would get the shaft up and out of the way which this wouldn't, and seems like it might offer the same sort of benefit. @GearTech has (had?) the X2 on his bike... would love to get his thoughts on it. Though it seems like his issues are/were different to mine if I'm remembering right.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

dwaharvey said:


> I've been riding my Foxy 29 Carbon since late 2018. Overall, I'm extremely happy with the bike, but am in the process of considering some changes. Here's the background.
> 
> My factory DPX2 shock with Mondraker's custom tune (XL digressive rebound, light compression, 0.6cu spacer) has seen some damage from rocks being flung into the shaft. On the ride where it happened, it caused a small burr that then wore a groove in the seal, and I lost all the pressure in the shock in the space of 5 mins before I realized what was happening. After limping home, I was able to fix it by replacing the seal, removing the burr, and adding some nail varnish that I then shaved with a razor.
> I weigh 158lbs and have been running the bike with 160psi in the shock, never bottomed it out, but am sometimes using most of the travel. But it's never felt quite as plush as I feel like it ought to. When I've used a shockwiz on it, I get a score of about 90. It wants me to reduce the low speed compression a click and also the high speed 2 clicks (which fits with my sense of lack of plushness), but on the DPX2 the latter isn't adjustable (it's the "light" setting Mondraker chose from the factory), and the former is backed off all the way. The bike pedals super efficiently even with the compression at this minimum. I never think about playing with the firm-switch.
> ...


Have you tried less air pressure? I am about 165 or so, and run my DPX2 between 150 and 155. It is quite plush and I get full travel most every ride.


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## dwaharvey (Mar 3, 2008)

@dubthang thanks for the suggestion - I have tried that. Let me correct a bit what I originally said: I'm running 160 psi with a 0.2 cu volume spacer rather than the stock 0.6. I've experimented many times with the 0.6 or a 0.4 spacer, both with a little less air in the shock, but both felt if anything harsher to me. I think with less air the bike just sags more, but isn't any easier to push further into the travel. And I've preferred the slightly higher ride height and more linear feel of the smaller spacer setup.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I've never felt what I recognized as a truly hard bottom out on my Foxy with an Avy tuned Superdeluxe (air) shock. Looking back I remember occasionally thinking: 'did I forget to tighten something!' After some clattering on a hard hit. 
Anyways hit a drop for the first time 2x (upper Picnic @ Brushy for CTX locals) and my Foxy sounded pretty bad on both landings and I realized that was just a really hard bottom out.
So I went home and upped my positive air volume spacers to 3 (from 2) which will obviously give me more ramp up at the end of stroke. But also I decreased my volume negative spacers to two (from 3), in my MegNeg. Reducing the negative volume spacers will decrease the break away force in the shock making it feel more coil like (not sure I like that part), but it also requires more air in the shock to maintain 31% sag (due to the now larger neg chamber) and this supports the midrange more and also helps prevent bottom outs. I'll test at the same spot next weekend and report back. 


Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

For those of you that built up frames, or have replaced their stock headsets, what type did you use and what size?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Rode a SuperFoxy today very briefly but was able to quickly hammer up a climb (very efficient feeling) & did a drop as well (felt like a very plush yet well supported pillow on that coil).
Very nice bike that from what I could tell gave up nothing in terms of trail prowess to my Foxy.
Didn't have that off the top rear suspension harshness that my Foxy had on an air shock before I added the MegNeg and the roller bearings. 
Owner said it had bottomed a few times on him and the bike looked brand new but he looked like a sender and we were at a trail with some big drops, 8'+. I'd put an EXT rear shock with the hydraulic bumper on that bike personally. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

The EXT tempts me with the foxy as well...


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I still love this Foxy but my attention is shifting a bit towards some other nice bikes just cause I like new stuff.

Was really trying to consider if the Spur would be enough bike for what I do, pretty sure I know the answer to this question. It just tugs at my WW side. But the fast rolling tires that this bike needs to be what it is, wouldn't likely work for me. And high grip tires seems to defeat the purpose of the thing.

The better fit for what I do would be the 2021 Stumpjumper. The chassis adjustability combined with the SWAT are both HUGE draws for me. Also really like the lack of cables hanging below the BB (I only have 1 due to AXS). I don't think the performance of the bike itself would be any better than my Foxy which is really dialed in now. I run my Foxy with a well dialed in air shock with a needle bearing and a MegNeg canister, it's plush but efficient and has great bottoming resistance. I run it with a 150mm fork to steepen the STA but also with the -1 headset. It measures 76 STA effective & 65.4 HTA. Also run a 45mm stem which really helps front end traction.

Any Foxy owners have experience with these other bikes and can compare?


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## redwoodum (Aug 25, 2020)

Despite Sun's continued insistence on the Avalanche Super Deluxe, I went with a DVO Topaz 2 on the rear and replaced the Lyrik Ultimate with a Diamond 160mm fork based on previous good experiences with the brand.
It's been a good step forward from the DPX2, I have 2 bands positive and 1 band negative in the shock. I run just under body weight for air pressure and it puts me at 33% sag. The bike feels active but no longer gets hung up behind me like the DPX2 did.
The rebound is now a lot more balanced front to rear, I previously had rebound wide open on the Lyrik with the DPX2 closed. Just rolled 1,700 miles on the bike.


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## redwoodum (Aug 25, 2020)

@dwaharvey
The Float X2 65mm is a great choice too. Like you said, 2.5mm spacers are common to get the stroke length dialed. I've only ridden that shock on the Transition Patrol, but it was super rugged and unphased by smashing into anything. Definitely on the heavy side of things, but if you like big hits it's top notch.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I ordered a '21 SJ Evo frame, but it won't be here for at least 3 months. Just was in the mood for something new.

Still not certain if I made the right decision as I still really love my Foxy 29. My Foxy is completely capable of doing anything that I do, which is mostly AM riding but also acceptable for DH, and even some XC riding. Concerned that I'll lose that all around trail bike feel and 'pedalability' I have out of my Foxy 29.

That said, I'll have a Large frameset and shock for sale in 3-4 months if anyone is looking.


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## Snody (Nov 30, 2020)

Hi Team

I've just got a Foxy 29 xr and put a few rides on it. It's definitely a awesome bike. There are bugger all of them in NZ so hopefully someone here would have solved my problem. 

Over braking bumps and roots there is a rattle from the back of the bike. Everything is tight and it's not chain slap. If I drop the rear wheel its dead quiet. 

Tonight I managed to get it to make the noise riding up a curb and if i wiggle the rear derailleur cable were it enters and exits the chainstay I get the same noise. 

I think the cable is hitting the inside of the chainstay as the suspension compresses? The brake is probably doing the same as well. Anyone else had this problem and managed to fix it? I think the holes are to small for the usual rattly cable fixes.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Congrats. 
Is your Foxy brand new or a used one?
The '19 Foxy's have pretty bad chain rattle as the CS protector is hard plastic. The fix is to purchase the SuperFoxy guard which I think is now standard on all models. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## dwaharvey (Mar 3, 2008)

It sounds like the OP is pretty sure it’s the cable in his case. I’ve not had this issue, but am wondering if you are using 4mm shift housing for the RD? I’m using jagwire elite (not the link variety) that is 5mm OD. The slightly larger OD may help...
You might also pull the housing towards the RD a bit, then put a bit of tape around it, then pull it back to get the tape to partially sit within the hole.


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## Snody (Nov 30, 2020)

It's a 2019 foxy xr. It's not chain slap in this case. It's a different noise and when I wiggle the cable it makes the same noise. Plastic on carbon. Thanks dwaharvey, I will give that a try. https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/jagwir...iAiatiBa1Frx3g9C-hIaAhZwEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

This stuff would be perfect but I don't think it will fit through the holes in the chainstay


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Guys, I'm going to have a large Foxy 29 XR Blue/red frameset for sale in just a few weeks. I'm in Austin, TX but can properly box and ship a frame very affordably (around $30).
Planning on including an Avalanche tuned Superdeluxe rear shock that is super dialed including custom tuning, a dialed Meg-Neg, and a roller bearing. I have a solid $1k in that shock alone. 
Bike has been ridden plenty and due to our rocks, has normal nicks but has also had protective plastic on it since day 1.
Thinking about $2k, OBO.
My Foxy has been my favorite bike of all time, by a large margin. I feel comfortable descending anything on this bike, but at the same time it climbs like a XC bike. My large is under 30#s, and it looks really good too. But I just was in the mood to try something new so it's time to move on. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## smartyiak (Apr 29, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> But I just was in the mood to try something new so it's time to move on.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


NOOOO...honestly, this makes me a little sad. I've been following this thread solely b/c "I wonder what Suns is up to with mods." I've frequently thought, if I got a Foxy, I'd just go to thread...see what Suns did...and avoid the trial and error....he's got that thing dialed.

I'm gonna miss that. :thumbsup:

Whatcha movin on to? I prolly check out that thread.

(Too bad it's not an XL  )


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

smartyiak said:


> NOOOO...honestly, this makes me a little sad. I've been following this thread solely b/c "I wonder what Suns is up to with mods." I've frequently thought, if I got a Foxy, I'd just go to thread...see what Suns did...and avoid the trial and error....he's got that thing dialed.
> 
> I'm gonna miss that. :thumbsup:
> 
> ...


Ha, I'm flattered!

I ordered a '21 S5 SJ Evo. I went from ultra-rare to ultra mainstream.

Really wanted to go for a new EXT shock and that wasn't ideal for the Foxy LR imo, but also spending $1K on a shock that specifically fit a 2 year old bike didn't seem like a good plan. Also really wanted SWAT which is weird cause I've worked out a great system for carrying the things I need on the Foxy.

What I'm concerned about is that the Foxy is just really a good AM bike. It will be hard to match.

If I don't love the Evo, I'll hold on to it until the next Foxy is released.


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## RSparkVB4 (Sep 26, 2018)

Anyone have a geo kit for their foxy laying around that they want to sell?


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## Jopojantteri (Feb 27, 2021)

I am buying a Rockshox super deluxe with megneg for My aluminium foxy but I dont know what size shock hardware should i buy. 

Could someone help?


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## dwaharvey (Mar 3, 2008)

Mondraker have this info in their faqs









FAQs


FAQs




www.mondraker.com





205x62.5 trunnions shock with standard 22.2x10 lower hardware

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Jopojantteri (Feb 27, 2021)

Thanks, I will order one soon!


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

So is this thread dead now? Anyone tested the Ext or Öhlins shocks?


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

dropadrop said:


> So is this thread dead now? Anyone tested the Ext or Öhlins shocks?


As much as I love the Foxy, it has too much reach for me. I switched to a Druid. It's not as fast as the Foxy, but it is a much better fit geo wise.


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