# Alligator PTFE cables



## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

Hello, I just purchased a set of Alligator PTFE cables for my shifters/brakes as mine are 14 years old. When I bought them I neglected to recognize that I needed cable jackets, ferrules, cable ends, etc... I guess my question is, does anyone have these? Should I even be using them on a mountain bike? Maybe I should return them? 
If they are okay, which cable jackets should I purchase? Thank you!!!


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Do you mean cable housing?


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Do you mean cable housing?


Yes, exactly.m sorry I selected the wrong word.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

I use those Alligator cables on my bikes. They're high quality and cheap, which is always good. If you're replacing everything, then yes, you need housing as well. Shifter cables need compressionless housing. Brakes can use standard or special compressionless housing made for brakes. I strongly suggest getting compressionless housing for the brakes as well, since it's a significant improvement in feel and power.

To make sure you get everything you need, I'd recommend just buying a shifter and a brake set of the Alligator Super Fortress cable kits:
Alligator Super Fortress Cable Kit at Price Point


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

Ok, I need advice here. I have already purchased cables for brakes and shifters, but need housings for both. I spoke to the local shop to see if they had "compressionless" housings and he asked me why I wanted to use them? Neither my shifters, or brakes have cables housings that run the length of the bike. My rear dérailleur has 3 pieces of housing. My front derailleur has 2 pieces, and the rear brakes have 2 pieces of housing. Given that they are interrupted, he suggested that I just use "standard" cable housings for brakes and shifters. 

The cables I have can be returned,but is it worth it? I'm not sure of what to do?


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Get a new bike shop. "Standard" shifter housing is compressionless. That's a very basic bike information right there. 

If you're that stressed about it, return the cables you bought, and just buy a shifter and brake set using the link I provided.


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

Read here: shift housing is more of a constant length housing. Compressionless housing can be used for brakes. 
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/sis-cable.html

http://yarchive.net/bike/sis_cable_housing.html


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

thickfog said:


> Read here: shift housing is more of a constant length housing. Compressionless housing can be used for brakes.
> SIS ® Cable Info by Jobst Brandt
> 
> SIS cable housing (Jobst Brandt)


None of my cables are of constant length. I am listening trust me...


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Get a new bike shop. "Standard" shifter housing is compressionless. That's a very basic bike information right there.
> 
> If you're that stressed about it, return the cables you bought, and just buy a shifter and brake set using the link I provided.


I did see the link you provided. I purchased multi packs of brake and shifter cables, but without housings. I just spoke to performance which isn't far from me and they do have the compressionless housings which I plan to use. Do I need to make sure the compressionless housing for the brakes is brake specific? I thought I read that somewhere?

Thanks


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> I use those Alligator cables on my bikes. They're high quality and cheap, which is always good. If you're replacing everything, then yes, you need housing as well. Shifter cables need compressionless housing. Brakes can use standard or special compressionless housing made for brakes. I strongly suggest getting compressionless housing for the brakes as well, since it's a significant improvement in feel and power.
> 
> To make sure you get everything you need, I'd recommend just buying a shifter and a brake set of the Alligator Super Fortress cable kits:
> Alligator Super Fortress Cable Kit at Price Point


"bad mechanic" is there enough in both kits for both shifters and brakes? Or do I have to purchase 4 kits (2brake). And (2 shifter)?????


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Yes, both brake and shifter housing is specific to brakes and shifters, though compressionless brake housing can be used for shifters in a pinch.


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

bad mechanic" is there enough in both kits for both shifters and brakes? Or do I have to purchase 4 kits (2brake). And (2 shifter)?????


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## Zoke2 (Nov 16, 2007)

you just need one of each. 1 brake set and 1 Gear set ... just like the description states

Cable Length: Front Shifter-1500mm (59"), Rear Shifter-2000mm (79"); Front Brake-1010mm(40"), Rear Brake-2000mm (79")


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

I think I'll go with your suggestion....


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

dhosinski said:


> I think I'll go with your suggestion....


that would be a good choice.. you sound new to all this so I would get a book as there are a few tricks that make cutting and installing easier. you'll need a cutter for one, or a dremil with the cutting wheel and something to ream it out after.


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

dhosinski said:


> None of my cables are of constant length. I am listening trust me...


I think you missed what constant length means. I don't know though. Give this a read :

http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

thickfog said:


> I think you missed what constant length means. I don't know though. Give this a read :
> 
> Cables


Please don't confuse the OP. Those articles don't change what he needs or what he's looking for.

In addition, those articles are mostly just playing word games. Think of it this way, if the housing length doesn't change, then it's not compressing, therefore it's compressionless. Modern indexed shifting systems need the length from the shifter to derailleur to remain exact, otherwise the gear indexing will be off.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Personally I think your to confused by this to do the work yourself. Just take the bike to someone and have them put new cables and housing on the whole thing.


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## tomacropod (Jul 23, 2004)

bad mechanic said:


> Get a new bike shop. "Standard" shifter housing is compressionless. That's a very basic bike information right there.
> 
> If you're that stressed about it, return the cables you bought, and just buy a shifter and brake set using the link I provided.


Just because a guy at a shop knows something by a different name, doesn't mean he doesn't know what he's talking about, or that he can't supply the right product for the application.

- Joel


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

tomacropod said:


> Just because a guy at a shop knows something by a different name, doesn't mean he doesn't know what he's talking about, or that he can't supply the right product for the application.
> 
> - Joel


Spot on. Anybody that is qualified to work in a shop knows the difference between shift and brake housing. However they may not know them by all the alternate names people occasionally use.


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

dhosinski,

I use Alligator PTFE cables (in bulk from Price Point) in conjunction with Jagwire L3 housing. I get 25 feet of derailleur housing (4mm) and 25 feet of brake housing (5mm) and it comes with ferrules. I use generic cable crimp ends for both my derailleur and brake cables.

I cut the housing with a Dremel and use a jewelry screwdriver to open the end up. 


If you want to know details on how to do this, PM me and I'd be glad to walk you through it.


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

customfab said:


> Personally I think your to confused by this to do the work yourself. Just take the bike to someone and have them put new cables and housing on the whole thing.


"customfab" I am not confused, and would appreciate you keep those type of comments to yourself. I am also wise enough to know you don't just dive in and tear things apart and install just anything that will ultimately end in an undesirable fashion. You aren't qualified to make that comment. I am a degreed engineer, and an auto mechnic for 7.5 years. 
I ask because I want to do it right the first time. I also ask, to get the best advice from people who are willing to provide good information "unlike yourself." Sometimes there are better ways than "just do it." The "housing" was an oversight and I realized that. Note, I have returned those cables and am ordering the ones that BadMechanic has suggested.

if you don't have anything useful to post then take your facetious remarks elsewhere.


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

dhosinski said:


> "customfab" I am not confused, and would appreciate you keep those type of comments to yourself. I am also wise enough to know you don't just dive in and tear things apart and install just anything that will ultimately end in an undesirable fashion. You aren't qualified to make that comment. I am a degreed engineer, and an auto mechnic for 7.5 years.
> I ask because I want to do it right the first time. I also ask, to get the best advice from people who are willing to provide good information "unlike yourself." Sometimes there are better ways than "just do it." The "housing" was an oversight and I realized that. Note, I have returned those cables and am ordering the ones that BadMechanic has suggested.
> 
> if you don't have anything useful to post then take your facetious remarks elsewhere.


YA, not to get in the middle of a feud but I was kinda getting the impression that you were a tad lost myself and you might have been better off getting a shop to do it. The internet has issues with "tone of voice" so he might have actually been looking for your best interests and not being as condescending as it sounded. That being said...

Go to town, some tips.


Not all ferrels are the same,Some have shorter stops then others. When cutting new housings use the old ones for a general measurement but always cut a little long. I often take pictures of the old housing so I can match the "arc" of the old one. you can always shorten a housing, you can't make it longer.. (well ya sorta can but it's a hack you don't want to have to do.)

If you can, buy a cheapo extra set of cables for cutting. I always insert a cable inside a housing before cutting so the liner doesn't collapse. It also makes reaming easier as you just push out a tad and wiggle it around to ream instead of a poker or something. I usually use the old one I'm taking off, but you stated it was OLD and you don't want the dirt and rust from contaminating the inner liner of the new housing.

Instant Glue (think Krazy glue) is your friend!! use it on both cable ends* and* the housings after cutting. On the cable it'll keep the end from unravelling when you are feeding it in and it catches on ferrule edges and such. And on the housings it'll keep the core from separating from the shell. Just make sure you use VERY small amounts and give it PLENTY of time to dry before touching it with anything else..  make sure you get the ultra thin stuff not the gels they have now, you want it to wick into stuff. 
You want to prevent this...









 make sure you reset all the shifter and brake lever adjustment screws, I usually bring them all the way in, then turn out 2 full spins, I have a habit of over pulling on the cable and actually needing to loosen to get tension and placement correct.

 I don't recommend a dremil anymore. I used to do it and it's not the worst, it will work but I have found that the heat it causes when cutting the steel core melts most modern liners (basically fancy nylon materials) and changes it's shape was well as the structure much farther inside the housing than I ever thought. The steel cores wick the heat back into the whole housing and can damage the liner up to and beyond an inch back. this will shrink the liner and make it wear out prematurely. It also kinda frays the outer materials and makes for one more step having to smooth it to get in a ferrule. Get a cable cutter if you can.


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

thomllama said:


> YA, not to get in the middle of a feud but I was kinda getting the impression that you were a tad lost myself and you might have been better off getting a shop to do it. The internet has issues with "tone of voice" so he might have actually been looking for your best interests and not being as condescending as it sounded. That being said...
> 
> Go to town, some tips.
> 
> ...


I agree with the "tone of voice comment." Truthfully nothing on the bike looks really bad, but because the cables are old I want to replace them. I planned to take each cable and housing off individually and identify / measure them when I replace them. I'll keep in mind to use the old cable when cutting new pieces, that's a good rule and I've heard that before. I'll wipe is off before I put in into the housing.
I also remember from a long time ago that people used to use "beeswax" for the cable ends?
The superglue does sound like a better solution,
The only cable that will be different is the front brake because I am chaging from 'V-Brakes" to "disc." I don't have the cable mount for my fork so I have to put something else there. I have a bunch of retainers from vehicle wiring harnesses that my work.

Thanks for your suggestions


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

dhosinski said:


> The only cable that will be different is the front brake because I am chaging from 'V-Brakes" to "disc." I don't have the cable mount for my fork so I have to put something else there. I have a bunch of retainers from vehicle wiring harnesses that my work.
> 
> Thanks for your suggestions


no cable mount? does it have the caliper mounts? you have a new wheel/hub with disc mounts? Many Rock Shox fork don't have an actual mount and just use a little plastic block to hold it off the fork.

Or were you thinking of a Housing Stop? Front brakes/forks don't use a stop as you run a full liner from the lever to the caliper...


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

thomllama said:


> no cable mount? does it have the caliper mounts? you have a new wheel/hub with disc mounts? Many Rock Shox fork don't have an actual mount and just use a little plastic block to hold it off the fork.
> 
> Or were you thinking of a Housing Stop? Front brakes/forks don't use a stop as you run a full liner from the lever to the caliper...


I changed my original Rock Shox Judy XC to a Marzocchi Marathon XC. Yes, it does have the 'V-Brake' post mounts but I don't have the plastic retainer that came with it. I hate to just use a 'tie strap' because they will cut into the housing
It like a wire harness.


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

well tie wraps are fine, that's basically what you use to hold a housing in place, they have steel cores, it's not like you're going to hurt it. I do put these under it if you don't have the actual cable holder as it keeps it from rubbing on the fork and rattling around as much..
Alligator The Gripper III Stick-on Cable Guides at Price Point


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

dhosinski said:


> I changed my original Rock Shox Judy XC to a Marzocchi Marathon XC. Yes, it does have the 'V-Brake' post mounts but I don't have the plastic retainer that came with it. I hate to just use a 'tie strap' because they will cut into the housing
> It like a wire harness.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

dhosinski said:


> "customfab" I am not confused, and would appreciate you keep those type of comments to yourself. I am also wise enough to know you don't just dive in and tear things apart and install just anything that will ultimately end in an undesirable fashion. You aren't qualified to make that comment. I am a degreed engineer, and an auto mechnic for 7.5 years.
> I ask because I want to do it right the first time. I also ask, to get the best advice from people who are willing to provide good information "unlike yourself." Sometimes there are better ways than "just do it." The "housing" was an oversight and I realized that. Note, I have returned those cables and am ordering the ones that BadMechanic has suggested.
> 
> if you don't have anything useful to post then take your facetious remarks elsewhere.


I was trying to be helpful not insulting. I've seen these kinds of questions before where somebody has a bunch of questions about something rather basic. Not dealing with them in the flesh it seams they are in over there head. I was really just interested in your bike working correctly. The fact that your an engineer makes complete sense of all of this.


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


>


That's an excellent idea! 
I like it alot


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

dhosinski said:


> That's an excellent idea!
> I like it alot


X2 that is so simple it's sickening and such a great idea.. :thumbsup:


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

*Shifter cable not long enough*



bad mechanic said:


> I use those Alligator cables on my bikes. They're high quality and cheap, which is always good. If you're replacing everything, then yes, you need housing as well. Shifter cables need compressionless housing. Brakes can use standard or special compressionless housing made for brakes. I strongly suggest getting compressionless housing for the brakes as well, since it's a significant improvement in feel and power.
> 
> To make sure you get everything you need, I'd recommend just buying a shifter and a brake set of the Alligator Super Fortress cable kits:
> Alligator Super Fortress Cable Kit at Price Point


UUuugh, I finally got some time to work on my bike and put things together and got to the last cable only to find that they are about 150mm too short? 
I have heard of this and hoped that I would not be ne of them. What should I do now? I mean if I'm going to have to buy cables maybe it should be a better one?


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

did you fall short on housing or the actual cable?

there is two lengths of both brake and shifter, the shorter one is obviously for the front(s). I have yet to get a bike that there wasn't enough, you do have to plan the housing out and make sure you don't waste much..


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

No, it's the cable. It's about 2M end to end, but I need another 150mm.


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

write pricepoint and/or Alligator.. I honestly think you've used the wrong cable in the wrong spot.. as the front is just about that much shorter from the factory with the one's I've used, but I've never tried their brand sooo.. but often they will just send you a longer cable if it was the right one.


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## tomacropod (Jul 23, 2004)

dhosinski said:


> No, it's the cable. It's about 2M end to end, but I need another 150mm.


Do you have a tandem or Salsa Fargo? Gear cables are normally 2100mm IIRC.

- Joel


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

thomllama said:


> write pricepoint and/or Alligator.. I honestly think you've used the wrong cable in the wrong spot.. as the front is just about that much shorter from the factory with the one's I've used, but I've never tried their brand sooo.. but often they will just send you a longer cable if it was the right one.


I'm going to take a measurement tonight after work. I know I used the correct section because the amount that I cut off of the front derailleur was only about 50mm.


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

tomacropod said:


> Do you have a tandem or Salsa Fargo? Gear cables are normally 2100mm IIRC.
> 
> - Joel


No it's a Schwinn Homegrown FS. I could have used the extra 100mm and more, believe me...


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Are you trying to run continuous cable from front to back? The HG has cable stops, so it doesn't take all that much cable.

By the way, you may want to consider this when doing your rear brake:
http://forums.mtbr.com/mongoose-schwinn/schwinn-sweetspot-cable-routing-566634.html
That routing is on a single speed, but you can do the same routing for the rear derailleur.


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Are you trying to run continuous cable from front to back? The HG has cable stops, so it doesn't take all that much cable.
> 
> By the way, you may want to consider this when doing your rear brake:
> http://forums.mtbr.com/mongoose-schwinn/schwinn-sweetspot-cable-routing-566634.html
> That routing is on a single speed, but you can do the same routing for the rear derailleur.


I have the aluminum frame just before the monocoque, so I don't think this routing will work for me. Also, don't the cable have to be continuous? The housing has stops "yes," but not the cable.


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

dhosinski said:


> I have the aluminum frame just before the monocoque, so I don't think this routing will work for me. Also, don't the cable have to be continuous? The housing has stops "yes," but not the cable.


My current problem is with the rear derailleur. Also, i am having a bit of binding with the rear brake. I have it routed the same, but I worry because of the difference in housing thickness between the OEM cable and the new SuperFortress may be causing some restriction at certain points?


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Ok, so you mean the cable and not the housing is too short. Sorry I misunderstood. Did you match the new housing lengths to the old ones? I've seen people have a lot of extra housing on their bikes, which then requires a longer cable.

Do you have the 1st generation aluminum Sweetspot (solid pivot) or 2nd generation aluminum Sweetspot (1.5" hollow pivot)?


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Ok, so you mean the cable and not the housing is too short. Sorry I misunderstood. Did you match the new housing lengths to the old ones? I've seen people have a lot of extra housing on their bikes, which then requires a longer cable.
> 
> Do you have the 1st generation aluminum Sweetspot (solid pivot) or 2nd generation aluminum Sweetspot (1.5" hollow pivot)?


I had just enough of the housing (4" to spare) for the shifters. 
My bike has the Hollow Pivot.


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

dhosinski said:


> I had just enough of the housing (4" to spare) for the shifters.
> My bike has the Hollow Pivot.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

That looks good to me. Maybe you accidentally got two front cables? I think the best bet is to call Pricepoint and have them make it right, and if you want to ride immediately, pick up a cheap cable from your LBS to use in the meantime.

Also, please don't clamp the frame. Clamp the seat post instead.

Alternatively, you could always convert to a single speed!


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> That looks good to me. Maybe you accidentally got two front cables? I think the best bet is to call Pricepoint and have them make it right, and if you want to ride immediately, pick up a cheap cable from your LBS to use in the meantime.
> 
> Also, please don't clamp the frame. Clamp the seat post instead.
> 
> Alternatively, you could always convert to a single speed!


Clamp to the seatpost, got it. Mostly because of damage to the paint?

Also, converting to a single speed may be an option if I get a new bike? Never considered it?
I have a couple of messages out to Alligator and to PRICEPOINT. I'll let you know what they say.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

dhosinski said:


> Clamp to the seatpost, got it. Mostly because of damage to the paint?
> 
> Also, converting to a single speed may be an option if I get a new bike? Never considered it?
> I have a couple of messages out to Alligator and to PRICEPOINT. I'll let you know what they say.


That, and more importantly possibly crushing or denting the frame tube. If you happen to damage a seatpost, it's much easier and cheaper to replace.

I'd suggest giving Pricepoint a call at 800-774-2376.

Your frame is one of the best ones to use in a SS FS build. Let me know if you ever decide to go that route, as I've built three of them myself.

Is that a Risse shock on the back?


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> That, and more importantly possibly crushing or denting the frame tube. If you happen to damage a seatpost, it's much easier and cheaper to replace.
> 
> I'd suggest giving Pricepoint a call at 800-774-2376.
> 
> ...


Give me what you have for going SS/FS because I think it may be worth considering. How are they for climbing?

The shock is a CANE CREEK CLOUD 9. I had unitially rebuilt my Front Fork Rock Shox Judy XC (long travel) with a Mountain Speed Eibach spring kit, and Risse Gem cartridge, but it added a lot of weight and the springs made noise inside of the tubing. I just didn't feel like dealing with it and purchased the Marzocchi Marathon you see now.


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

dhosinski said:


> Give me what you have for going SS/FS because I think it may be worth considering. How are they for climbing?
> 
> The shock is a CANE CREEK CLOUD 9. I had unitially rebuilt my Front Fork Rock Shox Judy XC (long travel) with a Mountain Speed Eibach spring kit, and Risse Gem cartridge, but it added a lot of weight and the springs made noise inside of the tubing. I just didn't feel like dealing with it and purchased the Marzocchi Marathon you see now.


I was going to sell the bike, and decided not to after I learned I wouldn't get much for it. I had a couple of people here pretty much tell me that any bike above a Walmart bike now is better than the Homegrown. While I beg to differ, it wasn't worth the arguement.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

dhosinski said:


> I had a couple of people here pretty much tell me that any bike above a Walmart bike now is better than the Homegrown.


Yeah, they're idiots blinded by modern marketing. It's true modern suspension designs have left the Sweetspot behind, but it's still an American made race frame. It's fairly light, very good quality, and is competent in the "soft tail" niche of FS frames. Also, as I already mentioned, it makes arguably the best SS FS XC )) bike. Plus, Homegrowns are always going to be cool.


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Yeah, they're idiots blinded by modern marketing. It's true modern suspension designs have left the Sweetspot behind, but it's still an American made race frame. It's fairly light, very good quality, and is competent in the "soft tail" niche of FS frames. Also, as I already mentioned, it makes arguably the best SS FS XC )) bike. Plus, Homegrowns are always going to be cool.


Thank you!!! 
You definitely made me feel better about my bike. I barely have 60 miles on it, but as with everything else things only last so long. I don't have any real complaints, except it doesn't have any mounts for rear disk. I bought new wheels, a caliper for front disk, cables etc. So, this spring I should be rocking. Oh, btw while I have your ear.
The rear brake cable is binding. I lubed the housings with boeshield lube. I also lubed each of the ferrules on both ends. That seems to have taken care of it for now. Any other suggestions?

Thanks


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

dhosinski said:


> The rear brake cable is binding. I lubed the housings with boeshield lube. I also lubed each of the ferrules on both ends. That seems to have taken care of it for now. Any other suggestions?


I assume the brake cable is the new Alligator cable? If it is, I recommend against lubing it. The teflon coated cables runs very well inside the housing without lube, and lube tends to just attract dirt. I would pull the cable out and wipe it dry to remove as much lube as possible.

Pull the ferrules off and make sure the cable housing isn't crimped after cutting, and there isn't anything touching the cable. If you don't use high quality cable cutters, they can crush the housing and deform the metal strands in it, which induce a lot of friction in the cable. Some people like to cut the housing using a rotary tool like a Dremel to insure a clean cut.

Here's a good thread to read:
http://forums.mtbr.com/tooltime/suggest-me-good-cable-housing-cutter-352893.html


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> I assume the brake cable is the new Alligator cable? If it is, I recommend against lubing it. The teflon coated cables runs very well inside the housing without lube, and lube tends to just attract dirt. I would pull the cable out and wipe it dry to remove as much lube as possible.
> 
> Pull the ferrules off and make sure the cable housing isn't crimped after cutting, and there isn't anything touching the cable. If you don't use high quality cable cutters, they can crush the housing and deform the metal strands in it, which induce a lot of friction in the cable. Some people like to cut the housing using a rotary tool like a Dremel to insure a clean cut.
> 
> ...


I purchased a set of "Spin Doctor" tools when they were on sale before the new year. The cable / housing cutter is plenty sharp and cut very well actually leaving absolutely no strand to trim. From there I used a small ice pick type of tool to make sure the holes were open. I will follow your advice and remove and wipe the cable. I am wondering if the cable noodle is bad? I didn't have a new one to replace the old. Really all I need is the cable housing inside of the noodle.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Try removing the cable from the noodle, applying tension to the cable using your fingers, and then pulling the brake lever. It should feel nearly friction free. If it doesn't, find where it's dragging. If it slides freely, run it back through the noodle and try again. If the noodle is the problem, just buy a new one from your local LBS; they're cheap.


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Try removing the cable from the noodle, applying tension to the cable using your fingers, and then pulling the brake lever. It should feel nearly friction free. If it doesn't, find where it's dragging. If it slides freely, run it back through the noodle and try again. If the noodle is the problem, just buy a new one from your local LBS; they're cheap.


Will do, thank you for your suggestions you've been a great help. I am also interested to know more about making my bike a single speed. Are they still good for climbing? I live in Michigan and we don't necessarily have huge climbs or decents, but we have them.


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Try removing the cable from the noodle, applying tension to the cable using your fingers, and then pulling the brake lever. It should feel nearly friction free. If it doesn't, find where it's dragging. If it slides freely, run it back through the noodle and try again. If the noodle is the problem, just buy a new one from your local LBS; they're cheap.


I'm sure the noodle is the problem. I also spoke to PRICEPOINT and they are sending a cable.
If the new noodle still drags, the cable diameter is going to be suspect. What would I do then. Use a different cable?


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

dhosinski said:


> I'm sure the noodle is the problem. I also spoke to PRICEPOINT and they are sending a cable.
> If the new noodle still drags, the cable diameter is going to be suspect. What would I do then. Use a different cable?


just get a new noodle,.. you can sorta "clean" them used to do it years ago. take a few pieces of the older cable and cut to 8-10 inches stick it through the noodle, attach one end to a drill and the other end fray open some, slowly pull the cable through the noodle with the drill spinning the frayed cable. you'll feel any bad spots, let it spin there a bit extra.. pull it out.

take another piece and stick it through, don't fray the end this time but drip some candle wax on it. not a lot but just enough so it drags through the noodle.. pull it through slowly while spinning slowly by hand.. cut off the waxed end and repeat till it comes out clean. The Wax will pick up any dirt/flakes and such in the noodle.


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

thomllama said:


> just get a new noodle,.. you can sorta "clean" them used to do it years ago. take a few pieces of the older cable and cut to 8-10 inches stick it through the noodle, attach one end to a drill and the other end fray open some, slowly pull the cable through the noodle with the drill spinning the frayed cable. you'll feel any bad spots, let it spin there a bit extra.. pull it out.
> 
> take another piece and stick it through, don't fray the end this time but drip some candle wax on it. not a lot but just enough so it drags through the noodle.. pull it through slowly while spinning slowly by hand.. cut off the waxed end and repeat till it comes out clean. The Wax will pick up any dirt/flakes and such in the noodle.


Wow! Creative with the wax! Great suggestion


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

dhosinski said:


> Wow! Creative with the wax! Great suggestion


ya, we used to do it a lot back in the day before lined housings.. along with 3-1 oil which was the "do it all" oil back in the early 70's


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

Jose373 said:


> Do you mean cable housing?


ya, back before there were nylon liners we used to run a waxed cable through it to clean them.. they were all steel back then, at least on the Grant's store bikes we had as kids 

And if you know "Grants" you're as old as I am


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

thomllama said:


> ya, back before there were nylon liners we used to run a waxed cable through it to clean them.. they were all steel back then, at least on the Grant's store bikes we had as kids
> 
> And if you know "Grants" you're as old as I am


Don't recognize the name, but doesn't mean I'm not somewhere close. LOL!!!


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

dhosinski said:


> Don't recognize the name, but doesn't mean I'm not somewhere close. LOL!!!


LOL.. Grants was the walmart of the day.. let's see, there were Barkers(which bought out Grants in the late 70's if I remember correctly) and Bradlee's too


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

thomllama said:


> LOL.. Grants was the walmart of the day.. let's see, there were Barkers(which bought out Grants in the late 70's if I remember correctly) and Bradlee's too


Don't recall those, but probably due to our locations. I remember Ben Franklin, Hudsons, Montgomery Wards, & Federals, which are probably like the stores you mention.


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

OK, we have gone WAYYY..







LOLOL back to the cables now


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

thomllama said:


> OK, we have gone WAYYY..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Haha, I put a question in to my LBS to see if they have a "Brake Noodle" and cable end cap. 
I hope that should fix my problem.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

dhosinski said:


> Will do, thank you for your suggestions you've been a great help. I am also interested to know more about making my bike a single speed. Are they still good for climbing? I live in Michigan and we don't necessarily have huge climbs or decents, but we have them.


I'd highly recommend you check out the MTBR single speed forum. There's a lot of good information and good people in there.

Honestly, I think climbing on my single speed is easier, since it forces me to maintain momentum and speed. It just really nice never having to worry about shifting or what gear I'm in, having the chain jump, and the rack of the chain smacking your chainstay. All you worry about is braking, steering, and keeping the pedals turning.


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> I'd highly recommend you check out the MTBR single speed forum. There's a lot of good information and good people in there.
> 
> Honestly, I think climbing on my single speed is easier, since it forces me to maintain momentum and speed. It just really nice never having to worry about shifting or what gear I'm in, having the chain jump, and the rack of the chain smacking your chainstay. All you worry about is braking, steering, and keeping the pedals turning.


Do you still have the HG with the "singlespeed?" Any pics?


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

dhosinski said:


> Do you still have the HG with the "singlespeed?" Any pics?


I actually have two Homegrowns built as single speeds, one is a hard tail, the other is full suspension.

This is mine:









This is one I built up for my friend:


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## dhosinski (Nov 24, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> I actually have two Homegrowns built as single speeds, one is a hard tail, the other is full suspension.
> 
> This is mine:
> 
> ...


What kind of setup do you have on the monocoque for the rear cogset?

Is that another pulley?


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

It's the DMR STS. It's a bolt on tensioner (takes the place of your rear derailleur) which works really well. In fact, Jenson USA sells it as part of a $40 single speed conversion kit:
DMR STS and Cassette Spacer Combo Kit > Components > Drivetrain > Singlespeed, BMX, and Track Cogs | Jenson USA

I highly recommend the kit if you want to give single speed a try.


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