# My brand new Corsair Maelstrom



## AScott_user (Sep 25, 2008)

Hi guys. After seeing so many people posting their handsome Maelstroms here, it is finally my turn to post one too. I was bikeless for 8 months just for this bike as i had to save up to buy the parts individually and had gone through numerous problems and set backs while building it, but all that is history now that i can finally ride it. So far it has been an awesome ride so far and im loving it! Okay time for less talks and time for pictures!

Oh btw the bike is seriously a f**king pain in the ass when setting up in the final moments ESPECIALLY with the shock mounting. Had to remove the ENTIRE shock just to pump its piggyback. -.- Also, had to modify chainguide to get it fit. Shall elaborate more on this when i get back. Will be posting a short post for now as i gtg soon.

Anw here is the specs of the bike:

Frame:
Corsair Maelstrom

Fork:
Marzocchi 66 RCV (2008)

Headset:
Corsair in-design headset

Derailleur (Rear):
Shimano Saint RD-M810-SS

Shifters:
Shimano SLX SL-M660

Brake Levers:
Shimano Deore XT BL-M775 Hydraulic

Brake calipers:
Shimano Deore XT BR-M775 Hydraulic

Rotor:
Hope Saw Floating Rotor

Crankset:
Shimano Saint FC-M815-1
BB:
SM-BB80

Chainring:
E-13 Guide Ring chainring 36T

Chainring Bolts:
Shimano Chainring Bolts

Chainguide:
E-13 LS1+ ISCG 05

Handlebar:
Sunline V-one OS Riser

Grips:
ODI Ruffian Black grips with red end caps

Stem:
OTA 70mm OS 0 degree rise

Pedals:
DMR V8

Seatpost:
Thomson Elite 367mm

Saddle:
Selle Italia SL

Hub (Front):
Hope Pro 2 Front 20mm TA
Hub (Rear):
Hope Pro 2 Rear 150mm TA

Chain:
KMC Gold 9-speed

Cassette:
Shimano Deore XT CS-M770

Spokes:
DT Swiss Competition

Rims:
Atomlab Pimps

Tires:
Maxxis Highroller 60a Maxxpro 26 x 2.35" (front)

Maxxis Highroller 60a Maxxpro 26 x 2.35" (Rear)























































Thanks for viewing! Any comments will be welcomed  I will be posting the problems i encountered with the bike too later.


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## Steve.E (Apr 10, 2009)

Great looking bike, I wish they offered more colours though!

I'd be interested to hear about the problems you had.


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## Zak (Jul 12, 2004)

I'm surprised you got that LS1+ to work. I was going to put an LG1+ on my Marque, but it looked like it would take a ton of grinding - luckily it fit perfectly on my Crown, and the Gravity Light guide I had on the Crown fit perfectly on my Marque so I just swapped them. I'd definitely recommend the GL guide for the Maelstrom/Marque frames, it goes on easy.

Enjoy, the bikes are worth the small hassles in setup.


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## Prettym1k3 (Oct 11, 2005)

The standover height is so low!

Looks good!


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## Freerydejunky (Sep 21, 2006)

Looks fantastic! 

Not to sure on the 70mm stem, but hey! Its not my bike haha


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## b-kul (Sep 20, 2009)

yeah 70mm looks odd to me but hey, if you like it! its a sweet ride anyway.


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## AScott_user (Sep 25, 2008)

Zak said:


> I'm surprised you got that LS1+ to work. I was going to put an LG1+ on my Marque, but it looked like it would take a ton of grinding - luckily it fit perfectly on my Crown, and the Gravity Light guide I had on the Crown fit perfectly on my Marque so I just swapped them. I'd definitely recommend the GL guide for the Maelstrom/Marque frames, it goes on easy.
> 
> Enjoy, the bikes are worth the small hassles in setup.





Steve.E said:


> Great looking bike, I wish they offered more colours though!
> 
> I'd be interested to hear about the problems you had.


Hi Steve, as mentioned by Zak, the chainguide was one of the main problems encountered when mounting. The plastic pulley hit the rear triangle while the bashguard hit the huge bottom bracket. I solve this by cutting of some parts of the plastic pulley. I cut off on the inside part of the pulley while retaining the railing guide. DO NOT SAW/FILE OFF THE RAIL GUIDE ON THE PULLEY. Its meant to slide along the backplate and controls the angle of the pulley. By removing it you can face disastrous consequences. Here is a simple picture for you guys. The red arrow shows where i cut the pulley.










Also, the taco bashguard was hitting the huge bottom bracket. I realised that i have to remove one bolt of the LS1+ taco bashguard and saw and file away the bolt placement holes. Shall provide pictures on this to explain it further. 

Also, as mentioned by PsyCro, i installed some zip ties on the pulley tunnel to minimize clearance and chain jamming. Initially i installed 2 ties on the tunnel grills. The first piece was attached to the front part of the grill. The 2nd one was attached where the arrow is pointing.










However, after installing everything, chain,rd etc, i realised that the chain was hitting the first zip tie and causing the chain to jam badly. There isnt't any problem when i pedal forward but the jamming comes when i back pedal. Out of desperation, i removed the first zip tie and it worked. Now i've test runned the bike through numerous bumpy areas altho i havent been thru to the trails yet. However the chain and pulley tunnel is working perfectly fine now. I really hope it will hold up as it is now! -fingers crossed-

Now comes the most frustrating part of the bike: Pumping the shock's piggyback. The problem is there is too little clearance between the schrader valve in the piggyback and the downtube for me to pump it up. Hence i tried to remove the shock by taking out the top bolt first, and thats where disaster struck. The piggyback rocked forward and hit the downtube badly, engraving a deep groove into the downtube. *ouch ><*










I was so fking frustrated with the shock because i SIMPLY COULD NOT TAKE THE SHOCK OUT NO MATTER HOW I MOVE THE SHOCK! Rocked it backwards forwards with no avail,, because i simply could not remove the bottom bolt as the holes never lined up properly. Then i came up with this idea: Loosen preload ALL THE WAY and move the spring up towards the end of the shock. With zero PSI in the piggback, its possible to compress the shock using your hand since the spring is not in place. After compressing the shock i did manage to take out the shock due to its shorter shock length(compressed). Took out the bottom bolt and out it goes! Pumped the piggyback up and tried to install it back. Frustrating enough, now with the piggyback pumped up, i could not install the shock back because i cant compress the shock with my hand with pressure in the piggyback! Now the shock is at full length and it hits the frame when i tried to install it back the way i took it out. :madman: :madman: :madman:

Out of desperation, i removed the linkage bolts of the bike's suspension linkage. I removed only the bolt that connects the rear triangle to the linkage system. And luckily enough, with the rear triangle out of the way from obstruction i can move the linkage however i want just by using my bare hands(I got GREAT difficulty in moving the linkage with the rear triangle attached.. Managed to move the linkage great enough, so that the shock can slide and install the bolts.

I know, its a very complicated procedure. I will try to post some pictures up soon so you guys can have a picture of how i worked it out. 

Thanks for viewing!


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## AScott_user (Sep 25, 2008)

motormonkeyr6 said:


> Looks fantastic!
> 
> Not to sure on the 70mm stem, but hey! Its not my bike haha





b-kul said:


> yeah 70mm looks odd to me but hey, if you like it! its a sweet ride anyway.


No worries bro. Somehow i really liked this setup. I find it really nice for me. I know the 70mm stem is odd and perhaps i will get a 50mm one and try it the next time. Thanks for viewing!


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## Fury25 (Oct 22, 2008)

Gorgeous setup!

Welcome to the family:thumbsup:


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## PsyCro (Jun 8, 2007)

Hey AScott, a few tips..

First, the trick with the zip ties isn't using only zip ties. I used them (the smallest ones available) to fasten a thin piece of plastic to the roof of the chain tunnel. That way i had less than 1mm clearance between the plastic and the chain. The way you have it, the chain can still jam between the idler flanges and the roof of the chain tunnel.
The delrin idler i made is working great.. so far i'm positive its THE best solution for this bike.. the delrin roller from Corsair being second best. The alu idler simply doesn't have high enough flanges.

Second, about removing the shock.. when I do it, i put my knee under the bottom bracket and keep the bike up so the linkage doesn't hinder the shock. I can pretty much take the shock out and then put it back in with no scratching. As far as unbolting it, here's my trick.. unscrew the top bolt first. Then with nut out of the way quickly put some weight on the seat and before the shock extends, push the bolt out (while its very briefly not under pressure). That way the lower bolt is not a problem (knee is required here too to align the bolt with the hole). For putting it back, same order and technique.


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## JMH (Feb 23, 2005)

You definitely have to back the coil all the way off and be extremely patient when removing or installing the shock. I have a pre-production frame and it doesn't have the hole in the BB cage for the bolt/wrench to go through. Imagine that for a little while. It's a HASSLE!  

Zak +1 on the Gravity Race chainguide, mine went on in a jiffy.

JMH


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## AScott_user (Sep 25, 2008)

PsyCro said:


> Hey AScott, a few tips..
> 
> First, the trick with the zip ties isn't using only zip ties. I used them (the smallest ones available) to fasten a thin piece of plastic to the roof of the chain tunnel. That way i had less than 1mm clearance between the plastic and the chain. The way you have it, the chain can still jam between the idler flanges and the roof of the chain tunnel.
> The delrin idler i made is working great.. so far i'm positive its THE best solution for this bike.. the delrin roller from Corsair being second best. The alu idler simply doesn't have high enough flanges.
> ...


I see. But i reside here in Singapore, so i have no idea how to get the delrin roller. 

As for the shock advice, its similar to how i remove it, as in the part where i compressed the shock just to allign it with the holes in the frame to insert the bolts. Infact i asked my mum to help me apply weight on the shock to compress it.  Thanks for the tip bro! Its sure a pain in the a$$ to get the shock out for this frame. Ride our Maelstroms and ride safe! :thumbsup:


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## AScott_user (Sep 25, 2008)

JMH said:


> You definitely have to back the coil all the way off and be extremely patient when removing or installing the shock. I have a pre-production frame and it doesn't have the hole in the BB cage for the bolt/wrench to go through. Imagine that for a little while. It's a HASSLE!
> 
> Zak +1 on the Gravity Race chainguide, mine went on in a jiffy.
> 
> JMH


Wow. Im really curious how you took the shock out. Im guessing it must have taken lots of dripped sweats to get it done. Oh by the way, i never insert the bolts thru the holes. Infact its redundant to me because i can never allign it. =X

Btw nice ride man! Striking colours. :thumbsup:


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

AScott_user, that is one great looking ride!

I too had problems and did some minor scruffing with the piggyback of the Roco on the frame ... it sucks that is has to be like that but in the end the riding pays off 

Regarding the roller, I'd say that my experience with the "new" delrin roller was way off from all the other praises, similar to Juan Pablo's experience.
I have a 1x9 setup and if I get the chain to cassette top half of larger cassette cogs (that aren't that larger, the bigger has 23 teeth) the chain immediately gets stuck in the space between the roller and the frame when pedaling.
All this with just 1 day of riding and not even a too long of a ride.

Yet for the good news, the british Corsair importer (where I got the "new" roller) told me that the new one was already in the works and will be probably ready in a couple of months.
I'm hoping for it!


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## AScott_user (Sep 25, 2008)

hafnz said:


> AScott_user, that is one great looking ride!
> 
> I too had problems and did some minor scruffing with the piggyback of the Roco on the frame ... it sucks that is has to be like that but in the end the riding pays off
> 
> ...


Thanks bro! Think i saw your rig before. Is it the AM setup of the Maelstrom?

Hmmmm. Could it be your chainline issue? Till now i havent experience any gear jamming in the tunnel. I've smack through roots, small 'pop-up' rocks etc and i just cant jam the gear in the tunnel. I have no idea what chainline i've got but heres a setup of my drivetrain:

2 spacers on the drive side of the BB(83mm Saint BB-80) and 1 on the other side. 3 thick spacers(2.5mm) and 3 thin spacers(1.5mm) that came with my LS1+ guide for my chainguide. So its like 1 thick spacer and 1 thin spacer per bolt, adding up to 4mm of spacing. No problems and gear jamming so far for gears between the 2/3rd largest cog and 6/7th cog. Havent try out the largest cog as i could not tune the RD properly. Will tune it at my LBS.

Previously my setup was 1 spacer on drive side(2 on the other) and 3 thick spacers for my guide. Couldnt work because i just cant get the chainline right and the gear KEEPS jamming.

Anw, i've highlighted what you said above in red. Are you telling us a new roller is coming, or could be a new rear triangle is coming up? If so the latter news sure is a good news for all Maelstrom/Marque owners.


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## glitz (Jan 27, 2010)

I know it's cool and all to have one of these designs, but it really seems like they rushed them to market unfinished. If drivetrain issues passed testing, I can't imagine they thoroughly thrashed the frame in testing, either.

Other than looking different, I don't hear much about how the suspension is designed to work and how it works in reality.


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

AScott_user said:


> Hmmmm. Could it be your chainline issue? Till now i havent experience any gear jamming in the tunnel. I've smack through roots, small 'pop-up' rocks etc and i just cant jam the gear in the tunnel. I have no idea what chainline i've got but heres a setup of my drivetrain:
> 
> 2 spacers on the drive side of the BB(83mm Saint BB-80) and 1 on the other side. 3 thick spacers(2.5mm) and 3 thin spacers(1.5mm) that came with my LS1+ guide for my chainguide. So its like 1 thick spacer and 1 thin spacer per bolt, adding up to 4mm of spacing. No problems and gear jamming so far for gears between the 2/3rd largest cog and 6/7th cog. Havent try out the largest cog as i could not tune the RD properly. Will tune it at my LBS.
> 
> Previously my setup was 1 spacer on drive side(2 on the other) and 3 thick spacers for my guide. Couldnt work because i just cant get the chainline right and the gear KEEPS jamming.


It sounds like we're using the same spacing on the bottom bracket.
It's just an issue with this "new" roller, the old one worked fine while noisy.

The importer's e-mail only mentioned the roller and that's the only problem I'd say, the rear triangle is fine.

I wouldn't call it AM ...


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## arai (May 8, 2006)

sweet looking bike, but I'm curious. Almost all the posts I've seen of people showing off their corsairs seem to have a decent amount of modifications just to run right. Are you guys useing non reccomended parts or setups or is it just not a very good outta the box solution? Kind crazy if a bike worth this much has this many mods going on by the user base just to have a starting point.


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

arai said:


> sweet looking bike, but I'm curious. Almost all the posts I've seen of people showing off their corsairs seem to have a decent amount of modifications just to run right. Are you guys useing non reccomended parts or setups or is it just not a very good outta the box solution? Kind crazy if a bike worth this much has this many mods going on by the user base just to have a starting point.


There are some mods, indeed and they are mostly regarding either the idler pulley roller or the chainguide.
The idler pulley is a completely different problem but the chainguide on the other hand is no different to some other frames out there.
Just comparing, a friend got an Intense SS recently (not the SS2) and we had to mod the chainguide aswell for it to fit. Both E13 on the Corsair (LG1+) and SS (LS1) and I'm not saying that it's a guide problem but as more and more brands come up with different designs some stuff is impossible to be standard for all, being chainguides one of those I guess.


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## AScott_user (Sep 25, 2008)

hafnz said:
 

> There are some mods, indeed and they are mostly regarding either the idler pulley roller or the chainguide.
> The idler pulley is a completely different problem but the chainguide on the other hand is no different to some other frames out there.
> Just comparing, a friend got an Intense SS recently (not the SS2) and we had to mod the chainguide aswell for it to fit. Both E13 on the Corsair (LG1+) and SS (LS1) and I'm not saying that it's a guide problem but as more and more brands come up with different designs some stuff is impossible to be standard for all, being chainguides one of those I guess.


I agree. Besides its a fairly new frame and suspension design. It will require more time to perfect it. Who knows, maybe 2years down the road the BB area would look completely different.


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## JMH (Feb 23, 2005)

Hafnz-

Put some sort of plastic washer inside the tunnel next to the roller so the chain can't drop in there. I took another roller (I had 2) and cut a thin 4mm slice that fits in there perfectly.

Yes, it's a complete pain in the ass.

JMH


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

JMH said:


> Hafnz-
> 
> Put some sort of plastic washer inside the tunnel next to the roller so the chain can't drop in there. I took another roller (I had 2) and cut a thin 4mm slice that fits in there perfectly.
> 
> ...


I have been thinking about doing just that, didn't get around to find a washer though, but thanks for the 4mm detail :thumbsup:


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## JMH (Feb 23, 2005)

glitz said:


> I know it's cool and all to have one of these designs, but it really seems like they rushed them to market unfinished. If drivetrain issues passed testing, I can't imagine they thoroughly thrashed the frame in testing, either.
> 
> Other than looking different, I don't hear much about how the suspension is designed to work and how it works in reality.


Actually ALL the problems were identified in testing.  But there is a balance between testing, revision, re-testing and delivering bikes so the bills can get paid. I certainly am not impressed by how it has been going, but I have to say it would have been a shame if the frames never hit the market since they are really great. You're right, they just aren't quite finished. Hopefully with the hard part out of the way they can go back and do some cleanup?

The suspension is really, really good. Basically it comes down to the high rear pivot... it rolls through stuff that other designs hang up on. The idler keeps chain growth to a minimum and there is zero pedal feedback. It's pretty spectacular actually, otherwise nobody would still be riding them. 

JMH


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## maximilian (May 13, 2008)

it looks like you come from Taiwan, no~?


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## glitz (Jan 27, 2010)

JMH said:


> Actually ALL the problems were identified in testing.  But there is a balance between testing, revision, re-testing and delivering bikes so the bills can get paid. I certainly am not impressed by how it has been going, but I have to say it would have been a shame if the frames never hit the market since they are really great. You're right, they just aren't quite finished. Hopefully with the hard part out of the way they can go back and do some cleanup?
> 
> The suspension is really, really good. Basically it comes down to the high rear pivot... it rolls through stuff that other designs hang up on. The idler keeps chain growth to a minimum and there is zero pedal feedback. It's pretty spectacular actually, otherwise nobody would still be riding them.
> 
> JMH


That's the first time I've read about someone defending a company for rushing their unfinished products to market, complete with documented flaws. Well played.


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## Secace (Sep 8, 2004)

It's been forever since I shopped shocks but if I was gonna get one of these bikes I'd be hunting a shock with a remote reservoir.


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## AScott_user (Sep 25, 2008)

maximilian said:


> it looks like you come from Taiwan, no~?


Nope. I come from Singapore, far from taiwan actually


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## PsyCro (Jun 8, 2007)

glitz said:


> That's the first time I've read about someone defending a company for rushing their unfinished products to market, complete with documented flaws. Well played.


Well, i'm gonna second JMH. Its a great design, that rides like a dream. The idler problem, FWIW, is really the only one the bike has; a critical point yes, but not unsolveable. I for one am happy the bikes came out when they did and that i'm riding one.


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## mamaloney (Feb 7, 2010)

Anyone know if the straitline silent guide will work on this frame?


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

mamaloney said:


> Anyone know if the straitline silent guide will work on this frame?


I'd say every guide that uses a bash should work without a problem.
I had a Gamut P30 on mine for a couple of days and fittting wise it wasn't a problem at all.
It's the taco ones that need some moding, either the E13 (LG1/LG1+).

---
I switched my Gamut to an LG1+ due to having bought the 2009/2010 Shimano Saint cranks that don't work well with bashes - outside their own (which I failed to remember when I bought them) - but can work if you have the ones supplied with the chain guides filed down a bit (thinking of the E13 SRS/SRS+ and Gamut P30/P40 that have some material that can be filled).
(And I was also eyeballing the LG1+ for a while )


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## AScott_user (Sep 25, 2008)

PsyCro said:


> Well, i'm gonna second JMH. Its a great design, that rides like a dream. The idler problem, FWIW, is really the only one the bike has; a critical point yes, but not unsolveable. I for one am happy the bikes came out when they did and that i'm riding one.


I agree with you too. No, im not defending the company nor brand, im just satisfied with my bike :thumbsup: The only thing that stops me from getting another one is due to its complexity. Having one is already a headache, cant imagine getting a Marque. But i dont mind a Konig. 

The bike is freaking bob-free, literally. I can climb while standing up and sprinting without getting tired that easily. It climbs like a hardtail, seriously. Suspension wise i cant rate it yet as i havent been to trails.


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## JMH (Feb 23, 2005)

glitz said:


> That's the first time I've read about someone defending a company for rushing their unfinished products to market, complete with documented flaws. Well played.


heh. Yeah, I would prefer something that worked perfectly, but that ain't what I got. But I still really like the bike.


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## glitz (Jan 27, 2010)

PsyCro said:


> Well, i'm gonna second JMH. Its a great design, that rides like a dream. The idler problem, FWIW, is really the only one the bike has; a critical point yes, but not unsolveable. I for one am happy the bikes came out when they did and that i'm riding one.


Well, they look cool, and I'm definitely interested, but when I see you guys spending more time riding them than getting them to work, I'll consider it more seriously.


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

Maelstrom threads always seem to involve discussion of mechanical issues and failures. here is another.

now that they're owned by atomlab, it'll be interesting to see if these issues get resolved. some interesting designs.

probably no coincidence that as all the negative reviews flooded in, the new maelstroms started getting blown out at a thousand bucks w/ shock. will suck for those trying to sell their used frames.


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

frorider said:


> Maelstrom threads always seem to involve discussion of mechanical issues and failures. here is another.
> 
> now that they're owned by atomlab, it'll be interesting to see if these issues get resolved. some interesting designs.
> 
> probably no coincidence that as all the negative reviews flooded in, the new maelstroms started getting blown out at a thousand bucks w/ shock. will suck for those trying to sell their used frames.


That's an interesting reading and quite true, but I'd say that all the reviews also have in common the desire of the owners to get it to work since it's a good design to begin with and with just one (a couple, maybe) flaws.

I'm also eager to see what happens with Atomlab, beginning with their new website that was also sort of promised to be up in a couple of months. 
I sometimes get to the conclusion that having a website that isn't updated in a long time is worse than not having one, for the general perception that a customer can have of a company. To see that stuff is happening and people didn't "vanish" from the face of the earth is really important nowadays. Brief news, a blog, something.


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

nice bike:thumbsup:


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## AScott_user (Sep 25, 2008)

Well guys, sadly i got my chain jammed for the first time 2 days ago. But thank god i wasnt in the trails, it jammed when i went down some steps along a pavement. Managed to free it. Guess i still alot more to modify. As for the idler pulley, i guess its some good news for most of us. Its a new idler from Corsair! Info shared to me by my buddy.

http://danjones.posterous.com/corsair-bikes-updated-idler-pulley-for-marque


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

AScott_user said:


> Well guys, sadly i got my chain jammed for the first time 2 days ago. But thank god i wasnt in the trails, it jammed when i went down some steps along a pavement. Managed to free it. Guess i still alot more to modify. As for the idler pulley, i guess its some good news for most of us. Its a new idler from Corsair! Info shared to me by my buddy.
> 
> http://danjones.posterous.com/corsair-bikes-updated-idler-pulley-for-marque


Not cool, and not very confidence inspiring either ... getting the chain jammed.

And unfortunately the idler pulley on the link is the third version, the same I was talking about in my earlier post (I'm guessing you have the second version, the same my frame came with). The other one the UK importer mentioned should be the fourth version.


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## AScott_user (Sep 25, 2008)

hafnz said:


> Not cool, and not very confidence inspiring either ... getting the chain jammed.
> 
> And unfortunately the idler pulley on the link is the third version, the same I was talking about in my earlier post (I'm guessing you have the second version, the same my frame came with). The other one the UK importer mentioned should be the fourth version.


Nope. Mine came with the original first type pulley.


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## AScott_user (Sep 25, 2008)

Anyway, just kinda curious. Will installing a Fox 36 180 FLOAT which has white colour lowers and crown, throw my colour scheme off? As in, will my bike look awful because of that? Kinda poisoned by the new Fox 180 by their weight. I had a fractured right wrist before and i'm a right hander, and my place here have lots of stairs. Carrying a bike that weighs 17.6KG up a few storeys literally stresses my once fractured wrist and im having pain from it. So i'm planning to cut down on its weight.


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

AScott_user said:


> Nope. Mine came with the original first type pulley.


I don't want to split hairs, but I'm refering to this as the first version, the "closed" flanges as the second and the derlin roller as the third.










(Taken from here: www.flickr.com/photos/corsairbikes/)


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## JMH (Feb 23, 2005)

hafnz said:


> I don't want to split hairs, but I'm refering to this as the first version, the "closed" flanges as the second and the derlin roller as the third.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The machining on some of the pulleys was different, but it's safe to call all pulleys "Version 1" because they don't work.

The Delrin roller works well, minus the 5mm chainsuck slot that is easy to fill. It's never going to jam, but we'll see how long it survives.


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## stn112 (Mar 1, 2008)

I know i'm a little late to the party, but i picked up one of these frames not too long ago and am in the process of building it up. can anyone point me in the right direction to obtain one of the new rollers? i've tried emailing corsair at their website but i've yet to receive a response.


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## PepperJester (Jan 2, 2003)

Phone them. I needed a pivot bolt a while back, Chris was great to deal with.

Chris Arnold
[email protected]
661-284-2807


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