# Going through brake pads like crazy!



## snaggleto0th (Jan 14, 2016)

So I couldn't quite find a thread that matched my problem(probably cause I suck at the search) although I consider my self a cyldes figure Id post here! But I feel like I keep going through rear brake pads faster than ever. My current bike is a 2016 Trek Remedy 7 27.5" It has Shimano Deore M445 I belive. Im about 250 give or take with all my gear on and ride all mountain and some XC trails. Im not the ballsiest guy around and try to watch my speed so I dont end up dead lol. The brake pads Ive put back on were the same Shimano B01S resin pads. The rotors on the bike also say "resin pad only". Is it just the brakes them selves that wear quick being a resin pad or could be just me being a baby on really steep/technical stuff? I swear I didnt have this problem on my 29er HT with SLX brakes. Anyone with any suggestions on what I can do or should do?


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## Joules (Oct 12, 2005)

Resin pads are the problem. It's not just you, I've burned through a set in a weekend.

I'm not sure what about those rotors make them only suitable for resin pads; I wouldn't risk it though. Unfortunately it means spending a few bucks, but if it were me, I'd look into rotors that can take sintered pads (maybe going up a size while you're at it).


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## snaggleto0th (Jan 14, 2016)

Thanks for the quick reply! I know Im a heavier rider but geeze they could last a little longer! The bike already has 180MM front and rear rotors. Ill talk to my LBS about getting some better rotors and check into getting some Shimano XT's.


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## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

The fact that you're killing rear pads is indicative of the problem. Brakes are for stopping, not maintaining speed. Additionally, the front brake is for slowing you down, and the rear brake is for controlling the bike.

If you're dragging the rear brake you heat-soak the poor thing and it burns up quick. Quick stabs at the brake raise the temp of the friction surface, which cools quickly in the ambient air.

You'll be faster and your brakes will hold up better if you change your braking technique. Take your fingers completely off the levers and 'let it run.' Spot a smooth, grippy spot, and clamp down on the front brake as you approach a technical feature. Use the rear brake to get that last 20% of braking power, or to unhook the rear wheel to correct your line choice. This style of riding favors smooth technique and looking forward for line choice, which is ultimately faster and easier on the bike/rider.

Us clydes have a smaller margin of brake heat capacity to work with, so we have to use it more effectively. It's bad, but also good. That said, my 6" bike has 8" rotors and sintered pads because i mostly use it for mtb vacations and sometimes i want to noobie it down the hard stuff some times w/o fear of cooking my **** and having wunky brakes on a trip.


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## rockcrusher (Aug 28, 2003)

At your size you might want to look into a 203 front rotor as well. It will help dissipate heat up front and give you better modulation. I use a 203 up front, have for about 10 years now and love them with my varying weight (from a high of 250 + gear to current 200+ gear) though actually now they are a little overkill for my weight. 

Add in sintered pads and you will have long lasting brakes that are better to modulate and stop more predictably. Just make sure your fork can take that large of a rotor.


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## snaggleto0th (Jan 14, 2016)

scottzg said:


> The fact that you're killing rear pads is indicative of the problem. Brakes are for stopping, not maintaining speed. Additionally, the front brake is for slowing you down, and the rear brake is for controlling the bike.
> 
> If you're dragging the rear brake you heat-soak the poor thing and it burns up quick. Quick stabs at the brake raise the temp of the friction surface, which cools quickly in the ambient air.
> 
> You'll be faster and your brakes will hold up better if you change your braking technique. Take your fingers completely off the levers and 'let it run.' Spot a smooth, grippy spot, and clamp down on the front brake as you approach a technical feature. Use the rear brake to get that last 20% of braking power, or to unhook the rear wheel to correct your line choice. This style of riding favors smooth technique and looking forward for line choice, which is ultimately faster and easier on the bike/rider.


With that advice i will give it a try! Im sure I'm not riding super efficient but im still learning and building techniques. I also feel ever since I got this new bike I've been going faster and doing bigger things than i would have done on my previous bike. Thanks again for all th3 input guys!

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Joules said:


> Resin pads are the problem. It's not just you, I've burned through a set in a weekend.
> 
> I'm not sure what about those rotors make them only suitable for resin pads; I wouldn't risk it though. Unfortunately it means spending a few bucks, but if it were me, I'd look into rotors that can take sintered pads (maybe going up a size while you're at it).


Yeah, resin pads wear out quickly. I might be the only one who does this but I run metal pads in the front and resin in the rear and my rears last ~500 miles.

I've seen cheaper low end Shimano rotors say "resin only" on them.


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## MaddSquirrel (Aug 5, 2005)

I am 280lbs and I prefer resin on my Fuel Ex 7 29. I get about 500 miles out of a set, but the modulation is a plus in my experience. I feel that stepping up to a 180mm rear and a 200mm front would be spot on compromise for me.


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