# New to mountain biking, just bought a used Specialized, would appreciate some advice



## Tstaw13 (Feb 18, 2013)

Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum and new to mountain biking in general.

I just purchased this Specialized HardRock Sport 2006 bike a couple days ago off Craigslist for $150..

I'm curious if this was a good deal? It looks like it needs a tune up because the back tire is a little wobbly, and the chain tends to slip off only when it is in the lowest gear for some reason.

I also think it may need new bearings in the front. I assumed there was no way I would find a semi cheap used bike on CL that didn't need repairs, and I did a little research and this seems like a reliable and sturdy bike. I took it for about a 10 mile ride today and it felt smooth and great compared to the older bikes I have ridden.

I also rode a friends Trek 4300 on a mountain trail a while back and loved it and from what I read online I heard this is a comparable model to the Trek.

I plan on getting on some mountain trails soon, and just was looking for some advice for new riders. (I've done some biking here and there in the past year but just on a paved bike path near my place besides the one time I was on a mountain trail.)

Also, the back tire is a Specialized rim, but for some reason the front tire is a Huffy rim and tire.. Is this a big problem that they are two different brands? If so, should I search for another Specialized rim to add to the front or does that not make much of a difference? They are both 26" x 1.95.

Does anyone know how much a 26'' Speciailzed rim would run me, and is that something I should search for used or should it be something new out of a bike store if it's needed?

Is there special tires that I should look to put on this bike that are better than others as far as durability or anything, any particular brand of bearings that are better than others, etc?

I don't want to take it into a bike shop and just get hosed out of a lot of $ because they will probably notice that I am a newbee to the bike world. So any advice in regards to parts or anything else biking wise for that matter I would definitely appreciate some tips if anyone wouldn't mind sharing!

Thank you. Here is a pic of the bike -


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## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

the chain slipping off, you need derailleur adjustment. Depending on what your time is worth, you can learn how to do this on youtube, all you usually need is simple tools ike a philips screwdriver. The bike is probably in need of a full tuneup if you want it to run well. If you want to spend the time, you could learn this on your own. If you need to replace parts, you'll save money buying them online and then having the shop install them or do it yourself. Getting parts through the shop will cost a premium, especially in my area.

The front tire being huffy probably means that the front wheel got damaged at some point. They replaced it with a cheapy wheel that's basically worth nothing. Since you're front bearring is loose, i would look at getting a used wheelset on craigslist or ebay. You can get a decent set for about $150 or less. You do not have to replace with wheels marketed as specialized branded wheels.

Get a helmet if you haven't. that's really the most important thing. Congrats on your new bike.


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## MTBeing (Jan 11, 2012)

You can't really repair bearings on a low-end wheel like the one's on your bike. I, too, would advise that you look on craigslist for a wheelset, or if you can't find one then something like this: Shimano Deore Disc/Rhyno Lite Wheelset > Components > Wheel Goods > Mountain Bike Wheels | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop. Looks like you're a fellow Zonie, based on the picture, so you could certainly ask for a reputable bike shop in the Arizona forum here on MTBR. Get the bike tuned up for sure and if you want to ride trails get some Slime tubes (at least) and carry a spare tube on every ride. Also, learn to change a tire in your garage or wherever before you start hitting the trails because you WILL get a flat MTBing in AZ. Also read the noob stickies here in the forums too. Happy trails!


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## bikewagon (May 10, 2007)

If you are new to mt biking, then I would suggest your first stop be to a local bike shop to have it tuned up and gone through. your shifting/chain dropping could be a few different things. It would be best to let someone is a little more trained look at it first. Then do as suggested, and start learning how to work on it and fix it yourself. this will save you money in the long run. As for it being a good deal, it seems pretty good, but only time will tell, depending on how much you will need to fix and replace.


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

Here's a link to BikePedia - 2006 specialized Hardrock Sport Complete Bicycle with the components for that particular model. It looks like the hubs are loose ball bearings, your loose wheel could just be a cone nut adjustment, or not. Learn how to wrench on your bike, it will pay dividends in the long run. It's really not that hard.


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## Orthoguy (Dec 4, 2011)

Congrats on the new bike! X3 on getting a used wheelset. I would advise fostering a relationship with your local bike shop. Being new to the sport it will prove to be a valuable asset for you and is likely to save you money down the road. I would ask them to do a full tune up on your bike and ask if they would let you watch. It's a great way to pick up knowledge on how to care for your bike. Also they can give you information on how to maintain you new ride.

Good luck and welcome to the club!


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## JoePAz (May 7, 2012)

The best thing is probably this.. 

Post on Az forum and maybe you can get a local to drop by and look at the bike. Maybe help you tune it up and give advice on what needs to be replaced. You got the bike cheap, but I can see a $150 bill from LBS easy. That is with minimal parts too. I am thinking your bike is fine, but just needs a little love. The hard part is that without known how to give it that love you are forced in to a LBS and their costs. 

Personally I am not against the lbs, but I find bikes so simple mechanically that I hate to pay for labor. Of course when you don't know what to do a good shop is the only way.


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## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

here's some wheelesets on ebay.
Sporting Goods > Outdoor Sports > Cycling > Bicycle Parts > Mountain Bike Parts > Wheelsets| eBay


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## dhelm72 (May 4, 2012)

MikeBurnsie said:


> Here's a link to BikePedia - 2006 specialized Hardrock Sport Complete Bicycle with the components for that particular model. It looks like the hubs are loose ball bearings, your loose wheel could just be a cone nut adjustment, or not. Learn how to wrench on your bike, it will pay dividends in the long run. It's really not that hard.


This. 
Take the wheel off and adjust the axle nuts and see if that stops the wobble. You might luck out. If the bearings are damaged or missing, they are cheap to replace. The bearing races may be completely shot if the wheel was used with missing or worn out balls for a long time. If you are lucky, you will only need an adjustment or replace/repack the bearings. 
If the wheel is shot, I wouldn't pay too much for a wheel. You could easily spend $250 on a wheel, tune up, new chain, tires and you will be nearly at the price of a new hardrock. 
Here is a good deal on a cheap wheel that will do the trick. Dimension w/ Alex X2000 26" MTB Wheels > Components > Wheel Goods > Mountain Bike Wheels | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
If you learn to do your own wrenching, you could have this bike in top shape for free or a few bucks if there are a couple worn parts. If you have to rely on the LBS, you might not save much over buying a new entry level bike. 
I think this bike will be good to go with a few hours of TLC. You probably don't even need a new wheel.


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## Tstaw13 (Feb 18, 2013)

bob13bob, MTBeing, bikewagon, MikeBurnsie , Orthoguy, JoePAz, and dhelm72.. thank you all so much for replying, sharing info and links, and welcoming me into the mountain biking world!

I got the derailer adjusted today, as well as the gears fixed.. Still don't have a helmet yet, but I will definitely get one before I hit a mountain trail for sure. When I do end up getting a tune up, I will definitely go in and watch the whole process so I can learn, thanks for that tip that's a great idea. I also agree I would love to learn how to take care of the bikes repair work on my own so I don't have to over pay at bike shops if possible.

I'm sorry I actually mis spoke, and it is the front fork bearings that need to be replaced, not the wheel bearings. I got my gears fixed up, so they are good now. There is a Specialized bike shop not far from my house, and as I was passing by I showed the man there my bike and talked with him. He said I can get the fork bearings replaced for about $12, not bad at all. He also said I could get a full tune up for $40.

I do have a few more questions for you all if you wouldn't mind helping some more, all in regards to tire issues.

I took the bike on about a 10 mile ride to the post office today to mail a package, (got to the post office and forgot it was closed due to President's Day, whoops!) and about half way on my journey back I got a flat on my rear tire.

Can any body let me know what is the best value tires/tubes/liners I can purchase ? Are there any moderately cheaper ones with kevlar that will actually hold and not get flat often?

The rear tire that went flat had a crappy tube in it and was leaking from everywhere.

The front tire, which is the Schwinn (I mistakenly referred to it as a Huffy in my initial post), had a really durable "Kenda" tube inside that was really thick, and even though the front tire had many thorns through it, none of them punctured this tube. However this tire is very dry rotted and cracking so I figure I might as well get it replaced too, but I will still keep and use the tube.

I came across this Kenda tire, does anyone know if this is a decent tire for the price or would I be better off with something else?

Amazon.com: Kenda K816 Aggressive MTB Wire Bead Bicycle Tire, Blackskin, 26-Inch x 2.10-Inch: Sports & Outdoors

Also, because the front rim is a Huffy rim, do I need to look for a Huffy tire to make sure it fits the rim properly? I was told that I do need to match the brand of the rim to the tire, but I just want to make sure I received the correct information.

If I do get the Kenda tires, would something like slime tire liners at wal mart be good to pick up to prevent flats as well?

Or is there a better tire/tube/liner combo out there that works good at a decent price that would fit this bike regardless of the wheel brand?

I remember an independent guy who was fixing and selling bikes on the street in a trailer told me that all the never flat tires and slime tires never really work and are just gimmicks, and he showed me a particular brand of tire with kevlar in it and he said those were the only ones that did what they claim to, bad part was they were about $50 a piece though.

I know I will have to put some money into the bike, but right now I'm just trying to keep things at a decent price since I'm a little strapped for cash and find out what products really work best. Sorry for me lack of knowledge on everything.

So as of right now I'm thinking I will need 2 tires, 2 liners, and 1 tube.

Thanks again you all for taking your time to help me out, I'm really glad I found this forum seems like a lot of great information from a lot of great people!


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I have to admit I'm being bad and not really reading everything. My quickie scan is that there's a lot of stuff that's varying degrees of chewed about this bike and nobody's posted my favorite link yet.

Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » New Bike Assembly

OP, last time I had to do a major revision on one of my bikes, I used this as a checklist. I realize it says "new bike assembly," but if you at least check each thing on the list, you won't miss anything. Each entry is also a link to the article on tuning that part. Take your time and read through the articles. Park Tool's writeups are coherent, thorough, and well photographed.


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## JoePAz (May 7, 2012)

Tstaw13 said:


> ...
> Can any body let me know what is the best value tires/tubes/liners I can purchase ? Are there any moderately cheaper ones with kevlar that will actually hold and not get flat often?
> 
> The rear tire that went flat had a crappy tube in it and was leaking from everywhere.


Tubes you should be able to buy for $5 to $8 each. They will flat from time to time and you can patch them. Don't bother with special tubes as they are just more money. If you want to stop flats you have to run tubeless and Stans sealant. There is a process to using this stuff and since you are just staring don't bother with it. It can still leak so either way you should always pack a tube and pump with you to change. You may be clear for bunch of ride and then get a flat or get a slow leak have the tire be flat next ride. As for tires.. You can if you want spend $150 on a set of tires, but that probably not needed. Run what you have for now unless they are worn down smooth. Most tires are going to $20 to $50 each depending on what you get. Size is pretty easy. 26x 1.75 (for street slick types) all the way to 26x2.4 The 1.75 and 2.4 are width. A good size is 2.2 or so, but I would run at least 2.0 width. Really wide tires can be harder to fit to older frames. The tire won't care who make the wheel and they will all fit fine. Now wheels are an import part of the mtn bike, but given that you are starting out just make sure they are round and they roll. Worry about the rest later on.

Now as for liners. I run liners in my tires and believe they help, but they make it harder to change tube since the liner is flopping around. Again my advice is get the bike running for as little as possible and worry about making it better as you get more riding done. Tires, tubes etc are "wear items" and are easily replaced. No need to over think it now.

What you will need however is a helmet and spare tube, tire levers and pump to ride with, plus some method to hold water. Could be a bottle and cage or hydration pack.


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## hosic (Feb 19, 2013)

Whats funny is I was actually looking at that Bike also


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I think you should at least take it to a shop to see what they say...they shouldn't charge you for an estimate and a list of what needs work. They will typically recommend to replace worn out parts..that is how they make money, but still, wouldn't hurt to make sure you have a decent/safe bike to ride. A tune-up should be $70 + parts which you don't have to replace if you don't want to.


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## Tstaw13 (Feb 18, 2013)

AndrwSwitch said:


> I have to admit I'm being bad and not really reading everything. My quickie scan is that there's a lot of stuff that's varying degrees of chewed about this bike and nobody's posted my favorite link yet.
> 
> Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » New Bike Assembly
> 
> OP, last time I had to do a major revision on one of my bikes, I used this as a checklist. I realize it says "new bike assembly," but if you at least check each thing on the list, you won't miss anything. Each entry is also a link to the article on tuning that part. Take your time and read through the articles. Park Tool's writeups are coherent, thorough, and well photographed.


No problem, I know my posts have been running a little long so it's a lot to read and answer.. Thanks a lot for that link, seems like that will come in handy for me, you're right nice write ups and lots of pictures that will help.


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## Tstaw13 (Feb 18, 2013)

JoePAz said:


> Tubes you should be able to buy for $5 to $8 each. They will flat from time to time and you can patch them. Don't bother with special tubes as they are just more money. If you want to stop flats you have to run tubeless and Stans sealant. There is a process to using this stuff and since you are just staring don't bother with it. It can still leak so either way you should always pack a tube and pump with you to change. You may be clear for bunch of ride and then get a flat or get a slow leak have the tire be flat next ride. As for tires.. You can if you want spend $150 on a set of tires, but that probably not needed. Run what you have for now unless they are worn down smooth. Most tires are going to $20 to $50 each depending on what you get. Size is pretty easy. 26x 1.75 (for street slick types) all the way to 26x2.4 The 1.75 and 2.4 are width. A good size is 2.2 or so, but I would run at least 2.0 width. Really wide tires can be harder to fit to older frames. The tire won't care who make the wheel and they will all fit fine. Now wheels are an import part of the mtn bike, but given that you are starting out just make sure they are round and they roll. Worry about the rest later on.
> 
> Now as for liners. I run liners in my tires and believe they help, but they make it harder to change tube since the liner is flopping around. Again my advice is get the bike running for as little as possible and worry about making it better as you get more riding done. Tires, tubes etc are "wear items" and are easily replaced. No need to over think it now.
> 
> What you will need however is a helmet and spare tube, tire levers and pump to ride with, plus some method to hold water. Could be a bottle and cage or hydration pack.


Thanks for the tips on the tires and liners..I will defintely get some tubes moderately priced, that's what I figured every tube is going to end up getting a flat eventually no matter how great they claim something is. good point yes since I'm just starting and don't want to pump a bunch of $ into it right now I might as well just get the bike running and go from there.

Thanks again for the info!


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## Hernandezsrt (Jan 24, 2011)

*Re: New to mountain biking, just bought a used Specialized,*

Solid bike, I recently started mountain biking as well and on the same platform too.

Mine hard rock was a solid bike, I abused it pretty hard, it just kept takin a lickn and kept on tickn. It's a great bike to start with and see if you really enjoy mountain biking, (without taking a plunge into a 2k fs bike).

To this day my hard rock is still around, just it's duty has changed to commuting 

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2


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## Tstaw13 (Feb 18, 2013)

Hernandezsrt said:


> Solid bike, I recently started mountain biking as well and on the same platform too.
> 
> Mine hard rock was a solid bike, I abused it pretty hard, it just kept takin a lickn and kept on tickn. It's a great bike to start with and see if you really enjoy mountain biking, (without taking a plunge into a 2k fs bike).
> 
> ...


Glad to hear the model has treated you good... I saw it posted on craigslist and did some quick research and most reviews had similar things to say just like you did so I jumped on it.

Yea that's exactly what I was looking for right now, something durable that will last, and I think it's a pretty comfortable ride too.
I have to worry about getting a new car first before I get into anything like a 2k bike lol so hopefully this one will last me awhile!


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## Scott In MD (Sep 28, 2008)

You should take it to LBS and tell them your situation ($150 bike and limited funds) and tell them your budget to get it fixed up. ... then watch at the amazing phenomena that occurs: 

- They will congratulate you on your new used bike
- They'll look it over and tell you exactly what you need
- THey'll prioritize what you need versus what you can afford
- THey'll tell you which repairs you can handle yourself, and they will even tell you how to do those repairs
- THen they will tell you about some good nearby trails to ride on 

If you decide to leave it with them, after you've gotten it back you will at first be surprised that the bill is higher than you think it should be (I always am) until you ride the bike, then you will realize your bike spins like a top and that actually, you got a great deal considering what you paid!

Happy trails.


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## Hernandezsrt (Jan 24, 2011)

*Re: New to mountain biking, just bought a used Specialized*



Scott In MD said:


> You should take it to LBS and tell them your situation ($150 bike and limited funds) and tell them your budget to get it fixed up. ... then watch at the amazing phenomena that occurs:
> 
> - They will congratulate you on your new used bike
> - They'll look it over and tell you exactly what you need
> ...


This goes along some of the advice a friend gave me: go to ur LBS, get to know the guys spend a little cash (in ur budget) then once the relationship is established they will look out for you and give you advice and recommendations on local trails.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2


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## Tstaw13 (Feb 18, 2013)

Scott In MD said:


> You should take it to LBS and tell them your situation ($150 bike and limited funds) and tell them your budget to get it fixed up. ... then watch at the amazing phenomena that occurs:
> 
> - They will congratulate you on your new used bike
> - They'll look it over and tell you exactly what you need
> ...


Good info to know, thanks!


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## millertm (Jul 20, 2012)

Here in NM we have a goathead issue. Lots of goatheads and many flats. I disagree with the "dude" in the trailer. I was using the $11.50 goo filled tubes with liners and pulled many thorns out of my tire with out it going flat. They do dry out in a few months and then will leak air and go flat. I think that if you are using a shrader (?) valve you can get a cheaper tube and unscrew the needle stem and add stans to your tube. Those thick tubes and liners added almost 4.2lbs to my bike and when I went tubeless it was very noticeable. As stated, just get out there and enjoy your ride. Get some new tires and see if you can add stans to your tubes. A backup pump and tube is still not a bad idea.

Mark


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## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

you haven't started riding trails yet, so I'd wait a bit to start replacing parts unti you get a feel unless it's really ncessary.

ONly replace the tire if you need to. those amazon tires look beefy, good grip but also very heavy, but I think they weigh too much to be ideal XC use. Do no buy the same tires front and back wheel. The front wheel should be your beefier heavier tire, back wheel lighter. I would aim for around a 550g 2.2" tire relacement for your rotting out tire. Do not worry about kevlar fancy tires. The cheapish tires work fine, and you can always add liners/add no-flat slime/convert tubeless to handle flats.

you do not need to get matching tubes to tires or wheels, that's all nonsense. you can fine tubes and liners here. That flat stoppage stuff actually does work. Cheap tubes work just as nice as fancy ones.
tube 26" in Cycling | eBay


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## Blurr (Dec 7, 2009)

Why not ? I had mine replaced on my old POS next bike.


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## Tstaw13 (Feb 18, 2013)

millertm said:


> Here in NM we have a goathead issue. Lots of goatheads and many flats. I disagree with the "dude" in the trailer. I was using the $11.50 goo filled tubes with liners and pulled many thorns out of my tire with out it going flat. They do dry out in a few months and then will leak air and go flat. I think that if you are using a shrader (?) valve you can get a cheaper tube and unscrew the needle stem and add stans to your tube. Those thick tubes and liners added almost 4.2lbs to my bike and when I went tubeless it was very noticeable. As stated, just get out there and enjoy your ride. Get some new tires and see if you can add stans to your tubes. A backup pump and tube is still not a bad idea.
> 
> Mark


Tons of goat heads in my area too. That's what gave me my flat the first day I rode.

Thx will take this advice got some tire liners and in process of getting a bump and back up liner before I hit a trail.


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## Tstaw13 (Feb 18, 2013)

bob13bob said:


> you haven't started riding trails yet, so I'd wait a bit to start replacing parts unti you get a feel unless it's really ncessary.
> 
> ONly replace the tire if you need to. those amazon tires look beefy, good grip but also very heavy, but I think they weigh too much to be ideal XC use. Do no buy the same tires front and back wheel. The front wheel should be your beefier heavier tire, back wheel lighter. I would aim for around a 550g 2.2" tire relacement for your rotting out tire. Do not worry about kevlar fancy tires. The cheapish tires work fine, and you can always add liners/add no-flat slime/convert tubeless to handle flats.
> 
> ...


Is there a specific reason you said the bigger tire should be on the front as oppose to the rear?

I was told the slightly bigger one should be on the back and the benefit to have to smaller one on the front would be to get better steering/turning.

Thx for the input on those tires that I posted on amazon. I will definitely go with the cheaper tires that seems like the what the majority of the people are saying to do.


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## dirtdan (Jun 27, 2011)

bigger tire = bigger contact patch = better traction = better steering/turning


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## Scott In MD (Sep 28, 2008)

For hard tail riding, in addition to better traction, a bigger tire gives you more bump-compliance and smoother ride on rough trails. But a bigger tire may be slower on smooth trails. 

In general, and up to a point, for all-trail riding, bigger is better and you can generally fit a bigger tire up front since there is more clearance under and between the fork legs (front) than between chain stays, seat stays, and seat tube (back). 

2.4 in front and 2.2 in rear is my go-to combo on a hard tail. 

(Trolls, go back under the bridge. YMMV.)


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I think people sometimes overfocus on the size of the tire. Start by thinking about what you want the tire to do.

I ran into a guy a while ago who had my exact make and model of bike. He'd left the stock tire on the front but put a bigger, fatter tire with big, chunky knobs on the rear. He liked to grunt his way up steep climbs out of the saddle, and the rear tire gave him more consistent traction. Since he didn't brake as unevenly as that, he didn't need a bigger tire on the front, and he was happy with his setup. I've used larger tires in the back on road bikes, in response to weight distribution and because I sometimes carry a load on a rack. On my 'cross bike, I used to use a knobbier rear tire and faster-rolling front tire because I sometimes had trouble maintaining rear traction, but I never braked too hard, and the big side knobs were enough when I tipped the bike to the side in a turn.

That said, on a geared mountain bike used for trail riding, I think most people eventually end up with either matched tires or a larger front. More consistent traction is usually more important on the front wheel, and a traction balance that favors the front wheel staying hooked up is a bit more controllable when things get sketchy, IME. I just think it's worth knowing why people tend to make this choice - it's not necessarily a universal optimum (I can imagine doing fatter rear on a singlespeed, for example) and for any individual, there's no guarantee that it's the right approach.


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## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

helmet is necessary all the time. I'm not the best, nor a beginner, but I wear a helmet even when spinning around the block.

tire choices have tradeoffs. So it depends on what kind of riding you're going to end up doing, and at what speeds. Once you ride more, you will have more info about what uses you'll put your bike through.


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## hocorider3700 (Aug 10, 2012)

Tighten up the nuts on the front hub and go ride trails


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