# Litech Magnesium Frame



## robn30 (Sep 21, 2014)

I have been on a 8 year hiatus from riding and am now getting back into it. I built a Litech Mag bike back in late 2005 and rode it until the summer of 2006. It has resided in my basement since then. I cleaned it up and am getting it ready to ride again. I wanted to know if anyone here is still using these frames, or have they completely faded away. I know they are no longer being built. I loved the ride of the frame and although I have not spent the money to be a true weight weenie, this is the only forum that seems to talk about these frames at all. I just wanted to poll the forum users and see if anyone is still riding these frames and if they are worthwhile. Thanks.


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## Ben Edwards (Mar 13, 2015)

I have not seen one in years (besides social media), since the frame is closing in on 10 years old and not steel or Ti I would recommend in investing in a Ti or carbon frame. Maybe you could keep the frame and hang it as art since it is now an incredibly rare frame. But again, because of its age I would not ride it very hard.


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## TBarnaby (Aug 1, 2008)

Are you saying that a magnesium frame is only good for 6 months worth of riding and will deteriorate while not being used?


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

As long as the magnesium isn't corroded it should be fine, otherwise there'd be a lot of Porsche's on borrowed time with their magnesium wheels. There's no expiry date on a frame that isn't being ridden.


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## robn30 (Sep 21, 2014)

I don't think there is any corrosion at all. The bike still looks brand new. I think I'm going to get it out there this year and see how it performs. Like I said, I love the ride of that frame. Plus I don't want to spend upwards of $1000 on a Ti or carbon ride. If I get back into riding like I did years ago, then maybe it would be worth it.


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## fxrextreme (Mar 11, 2015)

Any chance you could show us a pic of this mag frame?
Thanks


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## robn30 (Sep 21, 2014)

fxrextreme said:


> Any chance you could show us a pic of this mag frame?
> Thanks


I'm on a travel trip for work right now, but I will take a pic when I return. If you want you can look up the names Litech or Lodestar. Those were two of the names I know of that marketed the Mag Frames that were built in Russia.


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## robn30 (Sep 21, 2014)

robn30 said:


> I'm on a travel trip for work right now, but I will take a pic when I return. If you want you can look up the names Litech or Lodestar. Those were two of the names I know of that marketed the Mag Frames that were built in Russia.


This is close to what mine looks like. Same frame except mine is 19", so it's a little bigger than the one shown here, but it's the exact frame color and style.


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## Livewire88 (Jun 15, 2013)

robn30 said:


> I don't think there is any corrosion at all. The bike still looks brand new. I think I'm going to get it out there this year and see how it performs. Like I said, I love the ride of that frame. Plus I don't want to spend upwards of $1000 on a Ti or carbon ride. If I get back into riding like I did years ago, then maybe it would be worth it.


Waiting over 6 months for a reply, thats what I call patience :thumbsup:


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## fxrextreme (Mar 11, 2015)

Thanks for the pic.have you ever weighed the frame?
Ta


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## hoplias (Jun 21, 2011)

I just got one of these frames and the quality is nice but there is one issue I am having .They were from what I read supposed to come with a seatpost insert to reduce down to 27.2 and mine does not have that so the outside diameter 31.0 mm .I cant seem to find a good quality 31 mm post .I see in that pic its got a thomson and they only make a 30.9 .Will that size work .


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

Likely the main reason for the insert will be preventing galvanic corrosion between the magnesium and the seatpost metal. The 0.1 mm difference will cause problems. You could likely find a 31.6 to 27.2mm seatpost shim and hone it out to fit a 27.2mm post.


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## hoplias (Jun 21, 2011)

Wont making 31.6 to fit the 31 be me more of a gap on the 27.2 when inserted in shim .


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

The 31.6mm shim in a 31mm diameter seat tube would squeeze the inner seat post diameter down to about 26.6mm, so you could have it honed out to fit 27.2mm


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## TBarnaby (Aug 1, 2008)

Are you sure it's not a 30.9?
http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenies/litech-magnesium-frame-seatpost-size-148499.html


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## fxrextreme (Mar 11, 2015)

How did you measure the seatpost size? It does seem likely that it might be 30.9.can you not try a 30.9 post before you buy one?
Does the frame need a collar type clamp or does it have the clamp welded on?


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## fxrextreme (Mar 11, 2015)

I am still interested in the weight of the frame.is it significantly lighter than an aluminium alloy frame?
Ta


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Looks like an identical magnesium frame would be 34% lighter than aluminum, which is much more that I would have guessed:
Magnesium is the lightest structural metal currently available in the world

They also mention good dampening properties which is a nice bonus.


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## gdunha (Sep 10, 2004)

I had two of these frame and they both cracked one at the seat tube the other at the bottom bracket. They are light but very light x-country is all I would use it for.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

I think the other problem is that carbon is yet again lighter, and I suspect it is less expensive.

Hard to do an apples-to-apples, but Paketa offers this table for their MTB frames, which I assume must be XC-style hardtails:









Fairly easy to beat the 19" weight in carbon by 500g.


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## mountainbiker23 (Apr 20, 2015)

*2000 Lodestar Team Issue build*

First time poster here, in what is probably the most obscure thread in all of MTBR's cavernous forums.

I've owned a Lodestar magnesium frame since 2000. It's my understanding that Lodestar, Litech, and Keef are all essentially (if not exactly) the same frame, just rebranded. Mine claims it was made in Hungary. There were also rumors once that these frames were made from the scrap metal of old Soviet MIG fighter jets, although that is anecdotal and probably beside the point.














I've never ridden this bike abusively - it has always been built as a semi-weight weenie - but I have put many miles on it. It climbs and burns singletrack like a dream, it currently weighs 21lbs with a heavy wheelset and cheap Shimano disc brake. My old cycling mentor warned me about the frame being fragile, however I'm a 145lb flyweight and never really worried about breaking anything.

The only major frame problem I've experienced have to do with the magnesium being incredibly SOFT - see the photo of my chainstay where there were some chain suck issues during the bike's one-week period of being stolen (also another story), which left deep gouges in the metal. The frame brake posts seem particular - some v-brakes just won't work on them, I think due to their short length. I haven't experienced any bb threading issues.


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## BadHabit (Jan 12, 2004)

fxrextreme said:


> I am still interested in the weight of the frame.is it significantly lighter than an aluminium alloy frame?
> Ta


17" = 2.8 lbs

Designed in America.

Tubes from the MiG factory, 94% pure Mg from seawater.

Welded in Hungary (some seat tubes broke due to shims supplied that were too short; some bikes had one of two cage mounts too low to use; finish poor).

The seat tube at the BB shell is not biovalized so is a bit flexy.

Great riding frame. I have a new unbuilt 19" and a 17" that a bro-in-law had powder coated, 15 years of hard riding on that one, better than ever.

Paketa made some nice Mg frames.

Magnesium MTB Frames | Singletracks Mountain Bike News


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## bmxconvert (May 17, 2006)

rockyuphill said:


> Likely the main reason for the insert will be preventing galvanic corrosion between the magnesium and the seatpost metal. The 0.1 mm difference will cause problems. You could likely find a 31.6 to 27.2mm seatpost shim and hone it out to fit a 27.2mm post.


What? .1mm will not cause problems. Giant spec'd 30.8 seat tubes and posts for years and everyone ran 30.9 posts in them because they significantly more common. Grease your seat tube or use an assembly compound with carbon frames or posts and use proper torque and you'll be fine.


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## robn30 (Sep 21, 2014)

Well, I am still trucking along with this bike. Changed to XT Hollowteh 2 Cranks and bottom bracket. Switched to E-Type XT Front Derailleur. Now I am considering changing out the heavy a$$ Judy TT forks for some 2016 SID RCT3's. I know the Judy TT's already change the head tube angle from 71 to 70, and the SID would change it to about 69 degrees. I think this should be okay although I know the handling will suffer a bit. I wish this bike had a mount for rear disk brakes but it looks as if I will be running V-Brakes in the back and disk up front if I get the SID forks. Next I will have to search for some new wheels to shave a pound or more off. Bike is a bit heafty at 28 lbs with the Judy's. Should hit 26 lbs with SID, and I'm hoping to get to about 24.5 with new wheels. I'm good with that if I can get there. Does anyone think the SID forks would be an issue of any type? Thanks.


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

Magnesium frame ?!!! Light but like the previous picture very weak . Obviously compensated with wider tubing but still the surface can be eaten away easily .


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## MichaelV8V (Aug 16, 2014)

I like the idea of updating this bike, something as unusual as a magnesium frame deserves to be kept running, and some lightweight components would really work well. 

I ran with a Manitou SX-R fork for about 10 years, that had cast magnesium lowers, and with the titanium spring from a Manitou SX-Ti the weight was only 1422g. It was probably powder coated originally, and lost a bit of paint over the years, so I spray painted it with an aerosol and it looked fine. Corrosion wasn't ever a problem.

If you go for a newish fork, it will have a tapered steerer tube, with a diameter at the bottom of 1.5” and at the top 1 1/8”, an adapter can sometimes be used, but it depends on your headtube.


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## robn30 (Sep 21, 2014)

karimian5 said:


> Magnesium frame ?!!! Light but like the previous picture very weak . Obviously compensated with wider tubing but still the surface can be eaten away easily .


Not sure why folks say magnesium is weak. It's used throughout the aerospace industry to this day. Just like the old Cannondale frames that used wide tubing, so does this frame. To maintain strength, it has to, with the thin wall tubing. Just like Cannondale's aluminum frames from back in the day. I bought this in 2005 and the 19"version was 3.1 pounds. Even at this juncture in 2016, that's still a very light frame. If the workmanship in the build was very poor, I would agree, it would be very weak. Just like any other poorly built bike frame. This frame on the other hand has some of the most beautiful welds I have seen. If it breaks one day I'll get a new ride, but at the cost of these new rigs, I wouldn't be happy about it. I have been riding on and off since 1991 and the inflation in the bike game with new technology has outpaced most people's paychecks. Luckily my income affords the ability to drop some serious bucks on a new rig, but my old school knowledge of what I paid 25 years ago for breaking technology, makes it hard to justify. So I'll roll this rig until it breaks or something really catches my eye that is hard to beat.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk


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## robn30 (Sep 21, 2014)

MichaelV8V said:


> I like the idea of updating this bike, something as unusual as a magnesium frame deserves to be kept running, and some lightweight components would really work well.
> 
> I ran with a Manitou SX-R fork for about 10 years, that had cast magnesium lowers, and with the titanium spring from a Manitou SX-Ti the weight was only 1422g. It was probably powder coated originally, and lost a bit of paint over the years, so I spray painted it with an aerosol and it looked fine. Corrosion wasn't ever a problem.
> 
> If you go for a newish fork, it will have a tapered steerer tube, with a diameter at the bottom of 1.5" and at the top 1 1/8", an adapter can sometimes be used, but it depends on your headtube.


Luckily Rockshox is kind enough to still produce a 1 1/8 straight steerer with the 2016 SID RCT3. The even better part is, if I don't like the handling with the 100mm travel, it can be reduced to 80mm. Then it would be the same as the Judy TT except 2 pounds lighter . The wheels I have are ridiculously heavy and I could probably shave 1.5 to 2 pounds more with nice wheels but the rear is the issue since there is no disk brake mount. Most of the new and awesome wheels are disk only, which is understandable.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

Wiggle | A2Z Universal Disc Mount | Brake Spares


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## robn30 (Sep 21, 2014)

Thanks for the information, although that could end up costing me more money if I choose to go all in on this bike:idea:. Although at my LBS yesterday they made me feel as I did years ago when my younger cousins were ribbing me about still having a flip phone. When I mentioned the 26er with a triple chain ring they almost fell over laughing, saying they didn't think anyone was still riding something like that. I guess I am way out of the game and apparently the only thing worth riding these days is a 29er with full suspension and no front derailleur. The guys were nice enough but it was clear they had no love for 26er's and even said there is a reason they don't make them anymore, and that they don't sell them. I was thinking that there was a time when only 26er's existed and it wasn't that long ago, but after researching, I see that 29er's have been out for a while. So now I'm contemplating whether upgrading this bike is a good idea or not. Any thoughts from those that are much more up to date than me? On a good note they did say the SID RCT3 would work fine for my frame if I choose to go that route. Is my 26er that antiquated and obsolete that it isn't even worth upgrading or riding?


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

robn30 said:


> Thanks for the information, although that could end up costing me more money if I choose to go all in on this bike:idea:. Although at my LBS yesterday they made me feel as I did years ago when my younger cousins were ribbing me about still having a flip phone. When I mentioned the 26er with a triple chain ring they almost fell over laughing, saying they didn't think anyone was still riding something like that. I guess I am way out of the game and apparently the only thing worth riding these days is a 29er with full suspension and no front derailleur. The guys were nice enough but it was clear they had no love for 26er's and even said there is a reason they don't make them anymore, and that they don't sell them. I was thinking that there was a time when only 26er's existed and it wasn't that long ago, but after researching, I see that 29er's have been out for a while. So now I'm contemplating whether upgrading this bike is a good idea or not. Any thoughts from those that are much more up to date than me? On a good note they did say the SID RCT3 would work fine for my frame if I choose to go that route. Is my 26er that antiquated and obsolete that it isn't even worth upgrading or riding?


Oh I have had arguments/debates about the whole wheel size . It's the same for barends or no barends, gripshift or rapids, carbon saddle or cushioned saddle, flat pedals or clipless pedals . The bottom line is go with what you are comfortable with . I have tried 29" bikes (well one and it was a Cube from an authorised dealer) and i didn't like it . Perhaps with time it gets better but I can still go just as fast (if not faster) with a 26" bike . Also depends on the terrain you are riding on . The more bumps then a larger wheel will roll over better but as physics suggests the smaller wheel will accelerate faster, will hill climb faster (and be easier), will turn better and will have less flex..oh and will be lighter . Just don't mention it to some of the other racers here  !!!

As far as the single ring I have to admit that makes far more sense as you rarely need the smaller chainrings these days and you can save over half a kilo in weight just by removing the shifter, chainrings, cables and front derailleur . Free weight savings :thumbsup: !!!


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

Oh and companies are still making 26" wheeled bikes . I think companies like Specialized are the only ones that are moving more towards the 29" and 650b (which 650b is better IMO) wheel market .


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## robn30 (Sep 21, 2014)

karimian5 said:


> Oh I have had arguments/debates about the whole wheel size . It's the same for barends or no barends, gripshift or rapids, carbon saddle or cushioned saddle, flat pedals or clipless pedals . The bottom line is go with what you are comfortable with . I have tried 29" bikes (well one and it was a Cube from an authorised dealer) and i didn't like it . Perhaps with time it gets better but I can still go just as fast (if not faster) with a 26" bike . Also depends on the terrain you are riding on . The more bumps then a larger wheel will roll over better but as physics suggests the smaller wheel will accelerate faster, will hill climb faster (and be easier), will turn better and will have less flex..oh and will be lighter . Just don't mention it to some of the other racers here  !!!
> 
> As far as the single ring I have to admit that makes far more sense as you rarely need the smaller chainrings these days and you can save over half a kilo in weight just by removing the shifter, chainrings, cables and front derailleur . Free weight savings :thumbsup: !!!





karimian5 said:


> Oh and companies are still making 26" wheeled bikes . I think companies like Specialized are the only ones that are moving more towards the 29" and 650b (which 650b is better IMO) wheel market .


Thanks karimian5, that is great input, now I don't feel so bad. Just wish I would have given more thought to the single ring up front. I just bought a triple hollowtech 2 XT. I just didn't do enough research on that, and didn't realize they are going up to 42 teeth in the back! The guy at the LBS yesterday made me aware of that and I thought a 32 up front and a 42 in the back is the same as a 22 to 32. I was just looking at a 2015 Niner One 9 RDO online for $2,589 at this siteNiner ONE 9 RDO 3 Star X1 | Carbon | Reba RL Solo Air | 1x11, and thinking that is a pretty decent deal. I have never ridden a 29er and am worried I would feel like you did. I only ride XC and roots don't bother me but rock gardens suck. I think the 29er would be superior, like you said, on extremely rugged terrain, but I just don't know if I would love it as much as the LBS folks. The Niner is a darn beautiful machine and looks very tempting, but even if it is a good deal, it's still $2,589. Futhermore I would hate myself if I didn't love it after paying that type of cash.


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

My advice is to do what I did and arrange with your LBS to get a test ride first . See how you feel and see if it's something you could get used to . That's a lot of cash to part with for something you're not sure of .


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## AlexCase (Oct 19, 2015)

That is definitely a good deal on that bike. If that's in your price-range, I'd say go for it. Its not a bad idea to try some bikes out for a test ride though. But I'm sure that deal won't last too long. The guys at your LBS are steering you in the right direction. Yes, a few companies are making some 26inch bikes. But, from a general market sense. It's a dead wheel size. Even 26 inch fatbikes are already getting replaced with 27.5+ fat bikes, Just like 135QR's are a soon to be dead technology. Anyway, I'd say embrace the new stuff. 29ers and 27.5's are just better. You could totally do a build on your old frame and make it light weight and all that. But, only be left in the dust by a rider on a 29er, trust me, its happened to me on my old 26 full squish. Rider skill and strength still can't overcome the wheel size. As neat as that old frame is, I'd just keep it around to maybe do minor updates too to get it back to ride-ability. But, please, follow that advice from your LBS, I promise, they aren't doing that to make fun of you. They just want to save you from making a mistake.


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

...and the debate begins .


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## AlexCase (Oct 19, 2015)

Lol luckily I don't need to debate this. Since this argument was settled already. By the bike industry switching to larger wheel sizes.


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

AlexCase said:


> Lol luckily I don't need to debate this. Since this argument was settled already. By the bike industry switching to larger wheel sizes.


Bike manufacturers pushing people to change - nothing new there .


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

Anyway if you don't mind robn30 I'm going to unsub this as I know I have just started a fire with this wheels size nonsense and I really don't have the energy to argue . My last advice is to go with what makes you feel comfortable and don't allow anyone to bully you into something you don't really want .If you want to go for the 29" then great but if you don't like it then change the wheel size . Different wheel sizes have different pros and cons and one is NOT better than the other - just different . 

Peace  .


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## AlexCase (Oct 19, 2015)

Like how they pushed to go to rotor brakes instead of rim brakes? Because clearly that was just about making everyone spend more money, not because of better technology. Or suspensions using air springs and dampers instead of springs? Profits right? Not because it preforms better. Ah, what about sealed cartridge bearings instead of loose balls? Clearly profits. You're so right! larger wheels clearly are just a way for bike companies to take our money.


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## AlexCase (Oct 19, 2015)

Lol. Well, I rest my case. Just make sure you take the advice of the experts. Us bike techs get paid hourly... So we really don't care if you buy a new bike or let us upgrade your old one. We can only try to guide you in the right direction.


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

I haven't unsubbed yet - give me a chance . Right new ideas are not always great ideas. Bearings then yes, rotors then yes . Also I didn't say the larger wheels were rubbish I just said they weren't the be all and end all of wheel sizes . Now give me two minutes to unsub  .


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Anyone got a lighter?


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## MichaelV8V (Aug 16, 2014)

Technology progresses across all areas at a good pace. If you feel the need to keep up, then every year you'd want to swap your TVs, phone, car, bikes, laptop, watch, sportswear ...

That just takes a load of time and money, so we all have to make some strategic decisions about where the money goes, and the sort of renewal timing we'll adopt. If you're bored with your bike, or really interested in something new, and you've had the bike for a long time, then it might be time to swap it for something new. 

If this is just a passing thought, then you could leave your bike as-is, or upgrade it at lowish cost by buying old stock. I bought some new £1700 wheels for £300 because they were 26", and other carbon components at 30% of the original price because it was previous season stock. I'll get maybe another 5 years out of that, then look around again. 

In the last year I've replaced all our TVs, the family's phones, and my sportswatch. The laptop is good for another year, cars will be OK for the next 3 years. But I know if I looked at laptops, then I'd be embarassed at mine and want to renew it, so I won't go near that part of the PC World store, and my local Aston Martin dealer has just send me an invite to the preview of the new DB11, I don't dare go to that ...

Its all about priorities


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## robn30 (Sep 21, 2014)

AlexCase, I fully understand where you are coming from, but I don't race anymore, that ended in 1994. So if some dude on a 29er passes me by, I'm okay with that. Odds are he is a young guy like yourself, and me trying to keep up would be foolish. The fact is a lot has changed in the world of mountain biking in the last 25, which is when I started riding. With the invent of the 29er, XC courses have gotten ridiculous, focusing on riding over massive roots and rocks. When I raced it was a combination of very technical single track and brutal climbs, emphasizing rider skill and fitness. Now as you said you don't need as much skill as the technology has made things easier for you. The guy at the LBS just kept going on and on about how you can just ride right over stuff and it was crazy easy. Not to say the riders today aren't skilled, they are just skilled in a different way, with different course setups. I think if it came to a course with technical single track, tight switchbacks, and long grueling climbs, a 26er might fare pretty well. I am going to be open minded about the situation but it sucks that my 26er, which I built in 2005, and is practically brand new, might not get the abuse it deserves. That's what happens when houses, cars, kids, and general life steps in and displaces a sport that you love. Now that my son is getting old enough I am getting him on the trails with me. Should be fun no matter which direction I go. Have to admit that Niner looks awfully nice and so did the Specialized Epic the dude at the LBS was sporting, coming from a guy with a 1991 Ned Overend styled Purple Haze M2 Stumpjumper in the basement. That is the machine I raced as a teenager from 1992 - 1994. It was an awesome machine back then.


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## AlexCase (Oct 19, 2015)

robn30 said:


> AlexCase, I fully understand where you are coming from, but I don't race anymore, that ended in 1994. So if some dude on a 29er passes me by, I'm okay with that. Odds are he is a young guy like yourself, and me trying to keep up would be foolish. The fact is a lot has changed in the world of mountain biking in the last 25, which is when I started riding. With the invent of the 29er, XC courses have gotten ridiculous, focusing on riding over massive roots and rocks. When I raced it was a combination of very technical single track and brutal climbs, emphasizing rider skill and fitness. Now as you said you don't need as much skill as the technology has made things easier for you. The guy at the LBS just kept going on and on about how you can just ride right over stuff and it was crazy easy. Not to say the riders today aren't skilled, they are just skilled in a different way, with different course setups. I think if it came to a course with technical single track, tight switchbacks, and long grueling climbs, a 26er might fare pretty well. I am going to be open minded about the situation but it sucks that my 26er, which I built in 2005, and is practically brand new, might not get the abuse it deserves. That's what happens when houses, cars, kids, and general life steps in and displaces a sport that you love. Now that my son is getting old enough I am getting him on the trails with me. Should be fun no matter which direction I go. Have to admit that Niner looks awfully nice and so did the Specialized Epic the dude at the LBS was sporting, coming from a guy with a 1991 Ned Overend styled Purple Haze M2 Stumpjumper in the basement. That is the machine I raced as a teenager from 1992 - 1994. It was an awesome machine back then.


Hey Robn30. Don't worry I fully get where you are coming from. And hey, I grew up riding on 26 inch as well. And I totally think you should definitely keep that bike updated. But, I'd also like to put in in perspective of what Michael said. Its about priorities. If your priority is getting back on the trails to have fun again... Invest you money now in something like that niner. Because it doesn't have to do with speed or racing. Its mainly about having fun. Especially if your "bike" budget is around $2500. Don't go spending it all on bringing the 26 inch forward in time 10 years. That is basically my advice. Hell, my argument really isn't against 26 inch wheels. If you are partial to 26 inch wheels, go buy a new 26 inch bike with that $2500. As kariman said, there are still a few companies making them. As well as some killer deals on 2013's and 14's that never got sold.

My main point to you is don't make the mistake of going down the money pit on upgrades to a frame where you'll essentially be starting from the beginning. And it's always way more expensive to upgrade aftermarket then to buy the "package deal" that you get with a new bike. I'm a full-time bike mechanic and I've done a bunch of these revival set ups before. Trust me, if I had a dollar for the amount of times somebody rolls in what was a top of the line bike from the 90's and 2000's and wants to do upgrades, I wouldn't be a bike tech lol.

Just save the money you got now to buy the best possible bike you can. And then, maybe start a little bike fund on the side to revive the Litech.


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## Low Rider (Feb 20, 2017)

Hi guys, I was lucky to get magnesium frame made more than 10 years ago by Litech. I'm thinking to mount a lightwieght geared electric wheel on it and I have doubts which fork to choose - a stronger double crown or a simple one to keep it lighter? Which brand/model would fit better? The maximum speed would be about 25 m/h.


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Go with the double crown fork. That way when you take your first big fall, it'll fold up the frame at the head tube. Don't laugh, I've accomplished this feat.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Whatever you do, get it on video.


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## Lodestar owner (5 mo ago)

mountainbiker23 said:


> *2000 Lodestar Team Issue build*
> 
> First time poster here, in what is probably the most obscure thread in all of MTBR's cavernous forums.
> 
> ...


What brakes are you using for the back I can’t find any with the cable going on the right side


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## rughe.cotone (3 mo ago)

Lodestar owner said:


> What brakes are you using for the back I can’t find any with the cable going on the right side


I also just encountered a new Lodestar frame, new in box (!). Picked it up for the novelty. It can't be _that_ bad, right? So there's this guy in Italy that does angled EC34 headsets....

Anyways. Bumped into the same problem as you with brakes. Wanted disc brakes anyway, and noticed the bunch of holes next to the rear dropout (got a 19" but those should be standard, right?). Don't need rack/fender mounts or whatever the hell those are, so I cooked up an adapter according to IS spec. You'll need IS-PM adapters on top of that, but I don't mind mounting an adapter to an adapter to save the trouble of trying to print threads. It was like $40 all told on Craftcloud. Prototyped in PLA, aluminum print arrived today and looks pretty decent.

Large hole is an M10, smaller hole is an M4. Let me know if you'd like me to send the model your way. Pics attached.

Cheers!


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