# 1up Rack Hardware Seized In Place. Cannot Adjust. How Would You Handle?



## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

I was an early adopter of 1UP hitch racks. Very robust design, works great overall. I've had it for 5 years or so, and do leave it on my vehicle year round in Wisconsin. :nono:

My 9yo son finally took an interest in biking (dad's dream!!), and I got him his first nice bike. So I will need to adjust the rack do fit his new bike's wheel size. Well, the parts that need to be moved are seized tight. No amount of non-destructive measures have been able to remove the hardware (heat, penetrant, bfh). 

I contacted 1up, who did advise me that corrosion was not covered under warranty, and that with enough work I should eventually be able to remove the hardware. They suggested drilling the bolts out, and replacing. 

I am not happy, but are my expectations of it lasting more than a few years without being corroded beyond use unreasonable? Part of the reason I bought the rack was for it's versatility and future proofing as the kids grow older and wheel sizes change.


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## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

You left in on your carry year round in WI and expect it to be immune to corrosion. Did you do anything to prevent the corrosion from happening, do anything to prevent it in the 5 years you had it?

Yes, you are unreasonable


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

5 years in WI salt is rough duty.

Have you tried an impact wrench?


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

J_Westy said:


> 5 years in WI salt is rough duty.
> 
> Have you tried an impact wrench?


Bolts still come out easy on our vehicles, that are much older then this rack.

Cannot get an impact on it, as the bolt heads are recessed into the frame.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Bacon Fat said:


> You left in on your carry year round in WI and expect it to be immune to corrosion. Did you do anything to prevent the corrosion from happening, do anything to prevent it in the 5 years you had it?


I haven't done any corrosion prevention on the bolts of our vehicles, which are much older, and they still come out fine.



Bacon Fat said:


> Yes, you are unreasonable


You might be onto something!


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## 93EXCivic (Mar 12, 2018)

Have you tried hitting the bolts with a penetrating oil like PB Blaster or something similar? Failing that hit the bolts with heat from a butane torch.

Also not following how you can't get an impact on the bolts?


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## Gasp4Air (Jun 5, 2009)

Whacking the bolts with a hammer may help break the corrosive bonds. Try combining this with heat and penetrants.


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## Mike Aswell (Sep 1, 2009)

Are they actually bolts? Get the longest breaker bar you can. Even if you need a drive extension to get on the bolt. Leverage is probably your best bet. And hitting them with a penetrating oil before hand. 

If that fails I would use a tap/die tool....


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## fly4130 (Apr 3, 2009)

I had/have an issue with my rear tire strap bolt getting super tight to the point that the arm would not articulate at all. I used some penetrating oil and took it off, cleaned it, and reattached it with some graphite lube on the washers for irrational reasons, while making sure to not fully tighten it. 

This does not sound like your issue though, and I too am wondering where there is a recessed bolt without an exposed nut or keyed fastener on the other side. It sounds like you are trying to move the wheel spools lower. The bolt side is recessed there, the nut side is not. I second oil plus heat, but watch out for the spacers.


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## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

Mike Aswell said:


> Are they actually bolts? Get the longest breaker bar you can. Even if you need a drive extension to get on the bolt. Leverage is probably your best bet. And hitting them with a penetrating oil before hand.
> 
> If that fails I would use a tap/die tool....


The bolt is recessed in a hole, you can get nut off the other end, but the long bolt corrodes to the spacers preventing it from all sliding thru the arm.

If you can put a strap wrench on the spacer to try to break the bond. Or if you can get a little movement on the bolt thru the spacer. Putting it all back together and tightening it down will help break the bond. Have to do this a few times


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## outside! (Mar 15, 2006)

Kroil. If that doesn't work, drill them out. I would replace with stainless hardware. Note that stainless bolts are not as strong as steel bolts. Use anti-seize on any stainless to stainless connection.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

jonshonda said:


> Cannot get an impact on it, as the bolt heads are recessed into the frame.


You mean the bolt head is stuck in the arm? And you got the nut off of the other side?


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## Mike Aswell (Sep 1, 2009)

Bacon Fat said:


> The bolt is recessed in a hole, you can get nut off the other end, but the long bolt corrodes to the spacers preventing it from all sliding thru the arm.


Gotcha. I misunderstood and thought the threads were seized.

I had the threads on the bolt for my mower blades seize once, and I didn't think it was going to budge for anything but a five foot breaker bar ended up working.

I've used the thing here and there since for similar issues, and it normally ends up being leverage that works best, honestly better than an impact driver (unless you have a pneumatic one, I'm guessing they're pretty worthwhile for those types of tasks).


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

J_Westy said:


> You mean the bolt head is stuck in the arm? And you got the nut off of the other side?


The there is a counterbored slot in the rack that the bolt goes through, and captures the head of the bolt. So once the bolt is inserted, it cannot spin. That means that bolt head cannot be accessed with a wrench.


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## matadorCE (Jun 26, 2013)

Douse it in penetrating oil and heat that sucker up. Use a punch to drive the bolt out. If that fails, get out the trusty Dremel and make two cuts in the bolt head in a X pattern and break up the head.


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## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

I don't think the problem is getting the bolt out of the arm, but the spacers off the bolt

Does the bolt wiggle at all in the arm?


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Just and FYI for those who didn't read the post, I have applied ample amounts of heat and oil already.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Bacon Fat said:


> I don't think the problem is getting the bolt out of the arm, but the spacers off the bolt
> 
> Does the bolt wiggle at all in the arm?


The hour glass figure in the pic above is the issue, that is what is fused to the bolt. And it's 5" long, so there is a lot of corrosion to bust through!! when I did put heat to it there was liquid boiling out the threaded end of the spacer, so there is a little room in there.


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## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

jonshonda said:


> The hour glass figure in the pic above is the issue, that is what is fused to the bolt. And it's 5" long, so there is a lot of corrosion to bust through!! when I did put heat to it there was liquid boiling out the threaded end of the spacer, so there is a little room in there.


Try hitting that large hour glass spacer back and forth and twist it in both directions. Sometimes when you try to hammer it off in one direction it builds a wedge and won't budge after that


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Bacon Fat said:


> Try hitting that large hour glass spacer back and forth and twist it in both directions. Sometimes when you try to hammer it off in one direction it builds a wedge and won't budge after that


Problem is it's attached to a floppy arm, so when you hit it....it just bounces around.


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## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

Take the arm off or are the two other bolts seized too?


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## cobb ridge (Jul 6, 2010)

Use a press


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## Taroroot (Nov 6, 2013)

Aluminum and steel and salty water? Have fun!


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

sounds like you want to move that lower on the arm to fit a smaller wheel diameter???


could you not just buy a new one and mount it where you want. save hassle.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

Bacon Fat said:


> Take the arm off or are the two other bolts seized too?





cobb ridge said:


> Use a press


I agree, somehow get the whole rack of the car or the arms off so you can support the bolt head side (maybe with a socket) and hit the other side with a 3lb hammer and/or a press.

Kroil is awesome, by the way.


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## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

Take that rack with moving parts off your car and get a LoLo?


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## fly4130 (Apr 3, 2009)

Can you make a spacer out of a piece of wood to keep the two arms from moving, or at least moving together, when you give it a whack with the hammer? You have to be able to put your body or something against the stuck arm to counter the force. And/or perhaps put a strap wrench on the spacer to see if you can twist it some more to break it free. This may be a multi-day, mille-MFer project.


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## fredcook (Apr 2, 2009)

Fuse6F said:


> sounds like you want to move that lower on the arm to fit a smaller wheel diameter???
> 
> could you not just buy a new one and mount it where you want. save hassle.


I was thinking this as well.

*jonshonda*, it sounds like you actually got the nut off, but can't get the bolt out of the spacer. Have you tried rotating the spacer with a tight grip using, maybe, Vice-Grips? The spacers aren't threaded, so you can twist it both ways. I'd also try a gear puller (9 bucks) to apply pressure the threaded site of the bolt while twisting and tapping the spacer. Unfortunately, it will likely get marred since it's aluminum.

I know you mentioned that older nuts and bolts, like on yiour vehicles, haven't fused. But most automotive mixed metal application are somewhat protected or sealed. Like steel bolts going into aluminum heads and blocks. The bolt head in those cases provide a pretty good seal. But most automotive bolting doesn't involved mixed metals, corrosion/fusing is limited, other than rust. The seal around the spacer on the 1up is not water tight, so corrosion is imminent in long term, four season exposure. If/when you get that spacer released, I'd apply some silicone to the joints as you reassemble it if you intend to leave the rack mounted year 'round.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Fuse6F said:


> sounds like you want to move that lower on the arm to fit a smaller wheel diameter???
> 
> could you not just buy a new one and mount it where you want. save hassle.


After 1up basically told me to pound sand, that is what I ended up doing. Spending more money on an already extremely expensive rack, just to make it work right again. I would have torn it up if I had tried to move it.

$0.05 work of anti seize applied from 1up would eliminate this issue. But I am guessing they did ZERO environmental testing on this, or this would have made some revisions to ensure the racks functions as intended.

It guess the only reason I posted a thread was that I don't feel like a rack that costs this much, should perform so poorly in the elements.


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## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

You are being unreasonable again
Hammering on the arm while it is flopping back and forth isn't really a good faith effort on trying to solve the issue. You won't tear it up if you do it correctly and remove the arm.

also, the directions say to Inspect hardware on Rack periodically to ensure proper working conditions.

And the replacement part is $9


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## bingemtbr (Apr 1, 2004)

I leave my racks on year round because we ride year round. Had a Thule T2 go 8 years without issue, now using a Kuat NV2 for 3+ years no issues. Completely different design and engineering on both racks compared to 1up. 

The one issue I did have with my Kuat was a clear coat finish detail. Kuat replaced the entire rack at no cost. 

I'm in St. Louis now, but used to live in central IL. Our roads use salt in the winter.


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## OzarkFathom (Jul 2, 2019)

Now that you have the parts to practice on.....
Rest the bolt head side on a pvc pipe shim sized to allow movement of the bolt.
Use a bit of Ballistol, liquid wrench, or even diesel fuel applied so gravity can work.
Drive out with a center punch.
When installing steel to aluminum interface apply a coating of oxidation inhibitor.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Salted roads in Wisconsin winters can hardly be covered under a warranty of corrosion. Why so pissed at OneUp? Five good years of use and now it’s time to figure out options of removal and replacement.


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## 834905 (Mar 8, 2018)

I just scrolled through this whole thread and didn't see the most obvious answer. That being to sell your rack and buy a truck. My tailgate pad never seizes up.


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## OzarkFathom (Jul 2, 2019)

I really like my 1Up. 
But this thread is a good heads up for me to No-Ox those bolts before I move North.


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## fly4130 (Apr 3, 2009)

Hahah the trailer for when you just don't know what the day will throw at you 

I tend to take my rack off in the winter as I prefer to keep the bike inside the car (well, wagon) when the salty road spray is prevalent. Lets me auto car wash the car (wagon, wagon damnit) as well. I am fully on board with a service disassembly and a No-Ox application as well.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

DIRTJUNKIE said:


> Salted roads in Wisconsin winters can hardly be covered under a warranty of corrosion. Why so pissed at OneUp? Five good years of use and now it's time to figure out options of removal and replacement.


I work at an industrial lighting manufacturer and our specialty is hazardous location lighting, our parts are aluminum and steel. We put anti seize compound on threaded parts, and they will come apart after 5 years, and LIVE in much harsher conditions then occasional salt on roads (mines, oil rigs, car washes, waste treatment plants, shipping docks).

But we engineer our products to last, that is what the customers pay for, and that is what they expect. Our products spend decades in those locations, and are still serviceable. I guess knowing there are better ways to do things is why I am frustrated.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

jonshonda said:


> I am not happy, but are my expectations of it lasting more than a few years without being corroded beyond use unreasonable? Part of the reason I bought the rack was for it's versatility and future proofing as the kids grow older and wheel sizes change.





jonshonda said:


> It guess the only reason I posted a thread was that I don't feel like a rack that costs this much, should perform so poorly in the elements.





jonshonda said:


> I guess knowing there are better ways to do things is why I am frustrated.


Geez, Are you this way about everything?

If you weren't such a whinger, I'd offer the take-off parts from when I put on a fat-bike kit.

Get on with it.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

jonshonda said:


> I work at an industrial lighting manufacturer and our specialty is hazardous location lighting, our parts are aluminum and steel. We put anti seize compound on threaded parts, and they will come apart after 5 years, and LIVE in much harsher conditions then occasional salt on roads (mines, oil rigs, car washes, waste treatment plants, shipping docks).
> 
> But we engineer our products to last, that is what the customers pay for, and that is what they expect. Our products spend decades in those locations, and are still serviceable. I guess knowing there are better ways to do things is why I am frustrated.


I get it, but you also have to look at cost. If they were to go to the lengths that you suggest the outrageously priced 1Up rack would be even higher. Would you buy one if it was next to double the outrageous price they get for them now?


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

I respectfully disagree regarding value. My one up is 10 years old. East coast 4 seasons, cross country twice, all over the west including rough service roads. I had to replace parts after running into a pole - what a PITA. I had auto mechanics do it. Some bike mechanics may give it a go. Heat, impact wrench, extraction bolts. One up should use anti seize or at least tell new purchasers to do so. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## OzarkFathom (Jul 2, 2019)

jonshonda said:


> I work at an industrial lighting manufacturer and our specialty is hazardous location lighting, our parts are aluminum and steel. We put anti seize compound on threaded parts, and they will come apart after 5 years, and LIVE in much harsher conditions then occasional salt on roads (mines, oil rigs, car washes, waste treatment plants, shipping docks).
> 
> But we engineer our products to last, that is what the customers pay for, and that is what they expect. Our products spend decades in those locations, and are still serviceable. I guess knowing there are better ways to do things is why I am frustrated.


This changes everything!
*I cannot help but wonder why you didn't apply a simple coating of the stuff you use every day at work.*
Had you posted that you, having your background, wanted to give a heads up to 1Up and their customers about how to improve the function of their product by following your example, this would have been a much more positive thread.


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## OzarkFathom (Jul 2, 2019)

DIRTJUNKIE said:


> I get it, but you also have to look at cost. If they were to go to the lengths that you suggest the outrageously priced 1Up rack would be even higher. Would you buy one if it was next to double the outrageous price they get for them now?


We are talking pennies worth of No-Ox or Anti-Seize.....
But it would be best installed by customer upon assembly.
1 Up could certainly modify their package for minimal cost impact.
Even simply modifying the instructions would be a good idea.


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## OzarkFathom (Jul 2, 2019)

fly4130 said:


> Hahah the trailer for when you just don't know what the day will throw at you


I prefer to think of it as the trailer for throwing everything at the day!


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## BansheeRune (Nov 27, 2011)

At the margin gained on any bike rack, regardless of brand, they coulda used stainless 305 or 316 fasteners throughout and still, the manufacturer would be making a handsome margin. 
The fasteners installed and torqued by the factory should be treated properly by the factory. Those dealt with my the customer require the customer to read, comprehend and follow the instructions, apply the appropriate goop to threads per instructions.... BUT NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! Why offer superior product when an inferior one can be offered??


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

OzarkFathom said:


> This changes everything!
> *I cannot help but wonder why you didn't apply a simple coating of the stuff you use every day at work.*
> Had you posted that you, having your background, wanted to give a heads up to 1Up and their customers about how to improve the function of their product by following your example, this would have been a much more positive thread.


Valid point. Although I owned the rack for a number of years before starting at the lighting manufacturer. I *assumed * (you know what happens when you assume, you make an A$$ our of U and ME), that they had done the research and I need not worry about such things.

I did suggest in an email to 1up that they could use an anti seize product on their bike racks, and offered my experience and knowledge on environmental testing and the success we had done using very similar materials. I had also asked if they had every done any environmental testing to ensure their products were performing as intended. My questions and suggestions went unacknowledged.

As for added costs, yes there would be some. But based on rough estimates, less then $10. 99% of that cost is the time needed to apply the compound to the bolts. On a 2 bike rack, it would be 8 bolts.


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## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

Sometimes you have to do things yourself and not put blame on others.

Give it a try.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Sorry but I gotta laugh at this thread. Blaming a manufacturer for improper care by the owner of a product that has been used in extreme conditions. I dont own a one-up yet (my kuat is about worn out so one-up is top of my list for replacement for next season)

Shouldnt need instructions and so on. Pretty much common sense. I dealt with the same midwest winters most of my life. Winter road salts corrode everything. You leave something to be tortured in those conditions constantly without any care this happens.

And the "the bolts still come loose on my car" is an idiotic response at best. There is plenty of bits as a car gets older one will find have to be cut out cause they arent coming loose. However much of it has had a century of engineering behind it so they have found alloys to use for hardware that does a much better job at resisting corrosion. Those bolts are not something readily available to the average person. 

Bunch of internet experts here that know jack crap.

One of my favorites "stainless hardware". Guess what, stainless will corrode as well when trapped inside a sleeve.

Antiseize, another laughable one. Doesnt work inside a sleeve because it gets washed away, just like any other grease would in this application. Moisture gets in, gets trapped and degrades any lubricant. At best it would have slightly slowed the corrosion, but still comes to the same end result. If moisture can get in, nothing you do will be a permanent fix. 

That's why this thing called COMMON SENSE MAINTENANCE exists. Especially something that hangs out on the back of a vehicle. Every driven down a gravel road when its dry and dusty? Notice how much dust collects on the back? Same goes for road salts, moisture and so on.

If your not going to have an ounce of common sense and just going to whine about it, dont use a hitch style rack. Otherwise stop whining and deal with the repair and use it as a learning experience, especially the one of YOUR RESPONSIBLE for your own stuff and stop blaiming others.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

Ah... I promote oneup racks and garnered a few sales for them. One reason is adaptability. Hitch size, receivers, wheel size, repair ability, are all beneficial. I looked at the rack when I got it and thought to myself, this could use some antiseize. And it bit me in the ass years later. And yes antiseize has to be replaced periodically. That being said, I can’t see why oneup can’t apply an antiseize compound. Many buyers don’t have basic knowledge about corrosion. BTW, I wouldn’t consider purchasing another type of rack. 

If the OP is referring to adjusting wheel size, that’s easy. Cut the bolts off. It’s the recessed bolts in the carriage that are difficult. And don’t forget to try a torque bar. 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


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## OzarkFathom (Jul 2, 2019)

“Antiseize, another laughable one. Doesnt work inside a sleeve because it gets washed away, just like any other grease would in this application. Moisture gets in, gets trapped and degrades any lubricant. At best it would have slightly slowed the corrosion, but still comes to the same end result. If moisture can get in, nothing you do will be a permanent fix.”

Disagree.
At least with the first sentence.
Obviously any measure has limits of time and environment.
The simple fact that maintenance implies an ongoing servicing suggests anti seize will work, as will other options. There are many high grade grease products with varying resistance to various conditions. 

It’s good to be aware of the issue and address it accordingly. 

That is the benefit of such threads.
I will follow up on my own.
What 1Up does is up to them.
They make a great, if pricey, rack that was a good choice for me having been less than thrilled with the performance of others I have used over the years....


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

I read the thread a little more thoroughly and don’t see what the big issue is. Yes, 1Up should use an antiseize compound. I wonder if they don’t for legal reasons. This would not surprise me. The racks are made in the upper Midwest. Anyhow, cut the wing nut off. Drill out the bolt head if it’s fused and punch out the bolt or drill it out if need be. Off course the rack needs to be braced. That’s what the 9yo is for and even better it’s an educational experience for him, including instructing him that don’t assume that something is properly assembled/repaired. Doing that when you’re a working man with kids is kind of a PITA, but such is life. I queried 1upusa when I had a similar issue and received little useful advice. In other areas of customer support, they have been very helpful. If you haven’t done anything like the above, you should have someone who has experience to help you. It’s not rocket science but there are little things one needs to be taught. 


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## Taroroot (Nov 6, 2013)

BTW, stainless to aluminum makes galvanic corrosion worse. Although the stainless side corrodes less.
Ive had plenty of stuff that comes from factory with no antiseize that when I service will then antiseize.
To completely/or to most extent solve corrosion problem, you'd need to really slather anti corrosion stuff all over everything and periodically inspect and reslather. Or design a rack that would cost many times more by putting isolation at all joints, and make sure those don't break down.
I myself don't have one of these racks, friend who surfs does and seems to be happy with it having had it many years. But I don't think they leave it on.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Taroroot said:


> BTW, stainless to aluminum makes galvanic corrosion worse. Although the stainless side corrodes less.
> Ive had plenty of stuff that comes from factory with no antiseize that when I service will then antiseize.
> To completely/or to most extent solve corrosion problem, you'd need to really slather anti corrosion stuff all over everything and periodically inspect and reslather. Or design a rack that would cost many times more by putting isolation at all joints, and make sure those don't break down.
> I myself don't have one of these racks, friend who surfs does and seems to be happy with it having had it many years. But I don't think they leave it on.


Voted best post in this thread.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Sorry but I gotta laugh at this thread.


:thumbsup:

Anti seize works, proven on our products after decades of use on shipping docks (you know, then ones on oceans, with salt water). They still come apart. So you can laugh, but you aren't any better then the internet know it all's you claim not to be.

As far as your comments on automotive fasteners. You can honestly say that if you purchased a Lexus, MB, BMW, Caddilac (The 1up of the automotive world), and found that after 5 years of use you were cutting, drilling, and torching parts to get them off, you would be 100% ok with it? I just don't think you would.

Reading instructions? I maintain all the moving parts of the rack, the daily things that need to function for it to operate. Easy. But you are correct, out of hundreds of things I need to think about maintaining around our household on a yearly basis, the fasteners that allow me to adjust the rack for different wheel sizes isn't one of them. And it shouldn't be either. I've got way too much other sh!t to worry about tbh.


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## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

Have you taken the arm off the rack to brace it while trying to knock the bolt out? Or you still just complaining and not willing to do anything to solve the problem other than blame others


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## OzarkFathom (Jul 2, 2019)

jonshonda said:


> :thumbsup:
> 
> Anti seize works, proven on our products after decades of use on shipping docks (you know, then ones on oceans, with salt water). They still come apart. So you can laugh, but you aren't any better then the internet know it all's you claim not to be.
> 
> ...


Sell that piece of ****.
For what you think it's worth.
You made a terrible mistake buying it in the first place.
I is not compatible with your circumstance in life, both mentally and environmentally.

Time to cut your losses and move on.
Simple enough.


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

OzarkFathom said:


> Sell that piece of ****.
> For what you think it's worth.
> You made a terrible mistake buying it in the first place.
> I is not compatible with your circumstance in life, both mentally and environmentally.
> ...


If you do, PM me.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


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## nauc (Sep 9, 2009)

whats on the other side of the yellow bolts/arm????


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## speedygz (May 12, 2020)

Taroroot said:


> Aluminum and steel and salty water? Have fun!


Can anyone say galvanic corrosion


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## MSU Alum (Aug 8, 2009)

My car has a 3 year rust warranty on it. At 4 years, if it rusts, I don't expect it to be covered, so I take care of it. 

Is there some sort of warranty on this rack? Are you within the warranty period?


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## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

nauc said:


> whats on the other side of the yellow bolts/arm????


It's a nut that hold everything tight.


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

DrDon said:


> If you do, PM me.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


Right?


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

MSU Alum said:


> My car has a 3 year rust warranty on it. At 4 years, if it rusts, I don't expect it to be covered, so I take care of it.
> 
> Is there some sort of warranty on this rack? Are you within the warranty period?


He contacted them and they told him to go pound sand. Not in those words but one can read between the lines.


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## OzarkFathom (Jul 2, 2019)

DrDon said:


> If you do, PM me.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


PM you what?
Feel free to reply in a PM If you prefer.


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## nauc (Sep 9, 2009)

Bacon Fat said:


> It's a nut that hold everything tight.


id just cut the nut/bolt off, and put a new one on


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## MSU Alum (Aug 8, 2009)

DIRTJUNKIE said:


> He contacted them and they told him to go pound sand. Not in those words but one can read between the lines.


Yep.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Taroroot said:


> BTW, stainless to aluminum makes galvanic corrosion worse. Although the stainless side corrodes less.
> Ive had plenty of stuff that comes from factory with no antiseize that when I service will then antiseize.
> To completely/or to most extent solve corrosion problem, you'd need to really slather anti corrosion stuff all over everything and periodically inspect and reslather. Or design a rack that would cost many times more by putting isolation at all joints, and make sure those don't break down.
> I myself don't have one of these racks, friend who surfs does and seems to be happy with it having had it many years. But I don't think they leave it on.


It seems then that it wouldn't be unreasonable to expect the manufacturer to anticipate this and take precautions, such as anodized/protected hardware. Some how cars are joining aluminum and steel parts these days and don't seem to have the same issue to nearly the same extent.

Drilling out hardened bolts is not fun, especially for large bolts. I have concerns about how possible this will be.


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## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

It's not a hardened bolt. Its stainless and it can be cut easily. Nothing needs to be cut or drilled out. It can also be knocked out of the spacer easily, if you support the arm. This is a 10 min job, at most. But the OP will not put any effort into fixing the issue. Any even if he didn't want to put any effort into it. He could buy the new parts for $9. This is just the OP bitching that the manufacturer wouldn't send him stuff for free


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Hey guys/girls....I have calmed down a bit, listened to some good music, drank some good beer, had a great ride with new family, and realized it's not worth all the b.s. 

Sorry for the rant, too much negative energy right now! 

Happy Sunday!


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

OzarkFathom said:


> PM you what?
> Feel free to reply in a PM If you prefer.


My bad. If the OP is selling the rack, I'm interested.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

tigris99 said:


> That's why this thing called COMMON SENSE MAINTENANCE exists. Especially something that hangs out on the back of a vehicle. Every driven down a gravel road when its dry and dusty? Notice how much dust collects on the back? Same goes for road salts, moisture and so on.
> 
> If your not going to have an ounce of common sense and just going to whine about it, dont use a hitch style rack. Otherwise stop whining and deal with the repair and use it as a learning experience, especially the one of YOUR RESPONSIBLE for your own stuff and stop blaiming others.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


number one reason i haul my bike under the topper in the back of my truck. bike is too expensive to get caught in a nasty rainstorm for 2-4hr drive. coating the bike in brake dust or road salts or mag chloride. yuck!

but honestly you should have no problem removing the part. just takes more determination. there will be consequences though! id soak it in diesel for a few days. then apply some heat.

as i said earlier. just get a new roller or whatever and mount it lower. drop some lug nut anti seize on during assembly.

but look on the bright side. your anti theft performance is now improved!


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## nauc (Sep 9, 2009)

Bacon Fat said:


> It's not a hardened bolt. Its stainless and it can be cut easily. Nothing needs to be cut or drilled out. It can also be knocked out of the spacer easily, if you support the arm. This is a 10 min job, at most. But the OP will not put any effort into fixing the issue. Any even if he didn't want to put any effort into it. He could buy the new parts for $9. This is just the OP bitching that the manufacturer wouldn't send him stuff for free


if he cant get the nut off, he has to cut it


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## Carl Mega (Jan 17, 2004)

nauc said:


> if he cant get the nut off, he has to cut it


Sounds drastic...maybe just think about someone else for a bit? Roleplay?


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## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

jonshonda said:


> You can honestly say that if you purchased a Lexus, MB, BMW, Caddilac (The 1up of the automotive world), and found that after 5 years of use you were cutting, drilling, and torching parts to get them off, you would be 100% ok with it?


i though 1up was more of the DIY soviet go-kart of the automotive world


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## tedsti (Oct 22, 2004)

Sawsall through the bolt and cone spacer. Had to do this to remove the rear struts on my 2010 Honda Element. The stuff they put on the roads these days is next level nasty and will eat aluminum as well as copper wiring.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

tedsti said:


> Sawsall through the bolt and cone spacer. Had to do this to remove the rear struts on my 2010 Honda Element. The stuff they put on the roads these days is next level nasty and will eat aluminum as well as copper wiring.


This. Cut it off and buy new spacers/bolts

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Went to install the new spindles today, and they are longer then the existing by 1/4" or more. Was told I need to replace my old fat bike spacer kit with a new fat bike spacer kit, as the spacing has changed. Problem is, all the other hardware is seized in place, and are allen screws so there is ZERO chance they are coming out without major surgery. So much fun being an early adopter of products.


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## plummet (Jul 8, 2005)

Yes you are being unreasonable. Simple inspections dedect corrosion and steps can be taken to remove it before it's too bad. A simple greasing of the bolt earlier in would have fixed the problem.


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## speedygz (May 12, 2020)

plummet said:


> Yes you are being unreasonable. Simple inspections dedect corrosion and steps can be taken to remove it before it's too bad. A simple greasing of the bolt earlier in would have fixed the problem.


Antiseize is your best friend.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

jonshonda said:


> ...So much fun being an early adopter of products.





J_Westy said:


> Geez, Are you this way about everything?
> 
> If you weren't such a whinger, I'd offer the take-off parts from when I put on a fat-bike kit.
> 
> Get on with it.


Bears repeating

If it were me, I'd cut off the glidebar screws, soak with Kroil, and wiggle the remaing bolt back and forth with a vice grip until they break loose.

By the way, have you been complaing about a fat bike kit that you installed yourself?


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