# Project in the making..



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Ok..here's the start of letting me loose with the mill..
Through my haste i ordered a big junk of ali and didnt ask them to cut it nearer to the final size i need, so i have a lot of work to do.DOH!

Question for the mill users.. do you use a silting saw to chop of your ali?

Here's some pics..of my slow progress..
I had 3 P7's and ledil booms laying around so i thought i might as well use them, I could swap them for 3 XPG's and Regina's with minimal work as the front slot is 16.75mm deep 67mm x 20.5mm


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Looking good. You have been a busy boy this weekend. 

As for the slitting saw I have always thought of it but never bought one. But looking at the speed you can remove large amounts of material compared to multiple passes with a slot drill I'd get one (get the wife a handbag or some new shoes or you'll be in trouble)


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Cheers brad..
I didnt want to waste all the ali by removing it with a slot drill.. i could use the other half for another light..
I did pick up the hack saw....but then looked at the ali and put the saw back


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

I agree about the hacksaw. I reckon you'd go through 3 bottles of Gatorade, 10 cans red bull 1 liter of kero for lubricanting the hacksaw blade and possibly1 trip to hospital for a suspected heat attack, not to mention getting a tired arm


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

I usually use a band saw to get the block to the near finished size, but have used a slitting saw occasionally for that. I try design housings so I can cut all my fins with a slitting saw or keyseat cutter as it is so much faster than using an end mill/slot drill.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I tried the slitting saw aproach.. waste of time and money..
I reckon a decent hack saw would be faster..
Lucky i have a machine shop local.. got them to chop it down nearer size for me..free of charge 

But still a long way to go, and a lot of weight to shave off.. it weighs 450g at the moment!
Need to get it to half that weight at least..


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

come on guys 
this was made with hacksaw / drill / files / and belt sander .










and a lot more flipping hours than I care to remember .

bought a mini lathe just after this light


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

troutie-mtb said:


> come on guys this was made with hacksaw / drill / files / and belt sander and a lot more flipping hours than I care to remember . bought a mini lathe just after this light


Yeah, I've got those and know how to use them So, in a couple of years, with you as inspiration, I can complete my fourth light/first ground up build?  Maybe the XPG S2s will be readily available by then. :smilewinkgrin:


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> come on guys
> this was made with hacksaw / drill / files / and belt sander .
> 
> 
> ...


I hope you wore a breathing mask, while sanding the Ali on the belt sanders..?


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## HuffyPuffy (Jun 9, 2008)

I have been considering getting one of these for this very reason, however I also have a really good metals place nearby so I can buy it cut to order.

http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html

Right now I just need to get my mill working properly though.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

One of these is a lot cheaper..uses less electric but lots of energy...
It's also a great arm workout


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## HuffyPuffy (Jun 9, 2008)

That looks vaguely familiar 

Seriously, it would be more a workout for my internal dictionary of curse words if I had to cut a chunk of aluminum like the one in this thread with that. On the plus side I may invent a new word or two


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

HuffyPuffy said:


> I have been considering getting one of these for this very reason, however I also have a really good metals place nearby so I can buy it cut to order.
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html
> 
> Right now I just need to get my mill working properly though.


Spend the extra $20 and get one of these instead. It will have far more uses than just the hacksaw


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Here it is clearly illustrated the pitfalls of using a hacksaw too much, and apparently over masturbating


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Been hacking some more grams of today.. these are just rough cuts so still not looking like kelly Brook..
Down to 300grams..
Might have to take some helium out of my dive tanks..and skirt it into the housing..at least it will serve as cooling..


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Nice:thumbsup: looks like the rotary table has justified it's purchase.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I was nearly ready to through the rotary table out the window..
It took an age to try and get the 4 jaw chuck centered on it! 
I had to tighten the the brass clamping screw up really tight as evertime i cut into the ali, it would lift up slightly..


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

On your 4 jaw chuck turn the jaws through 180º so the longer part is securing your workpiece.

Also don't be afraid of putting some loctite thread locker on the clamps as this will stop vibrations loosening them.

I forgot about setting up the 4 jaw on the rotary table. I have always centered the jaws with some hardened bar in my lathe, then secured the 4 jaw to the centered rotary table after that using one of these for simplicity http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CO-AX-INDICATOR-MILLING-MACHINE-COAXIAL-COAX-0005-/350387973770?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5194c02e8a#ht_5110wt_1229. Setting up a 3 jaw is a piece of cake.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I was just looking for one of those.. not to sure what there called..
On this site he refers to it as an indicol..while setting up his rotary table..
https://www.cnccookbook.com/CCRotabToys.html









Just need to see if i can find a supplier in the uk...
Cheers brad.. if your ever in the uk for some strange reason i'll owe you a beer or two..
:thumbsup:

_EDIT...co ax indicator is the tool i need.. just seen it on this video
https://techtv.mit.edu/videos/84-machine-shop-5 49minute mark_


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

your picture is of a standard dial indicator with magnetic base that can be used setting parts in a lathe chuck, squaring parts to the mill axis' etc or what he was doing.

The coaxial's are pretty cool


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

heres another little demo 




Also check out this guys video's, they are 1st class


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Coax indicator...£70 in uk...


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Yep even on ebay your looking at 50 pounds

Get one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAGNETIC-BASE-METRIC-DTI-DIAL-GAUGE-TEST-INDICATOR-NEW-/360281121124?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item53e26da164#ht_2308wt_1135. Will be slower to set up but still just as accurate. Works the same way, the needle will defect when not alighned


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## motomech (May 17, 2010)

Goldigger said:


> Been hacking some more grams of today.. these are just rough cuts so still not looking like kelly Brook..
> Down to 300grams..
> Might have to take some helium out of my dive tanks..and skirt it into the housing..at least it will serve as cooling..


A little late but when working with Aluminum, you can use an electric miter saw with a carbide toothed wood cutting blade.
Just feed the blade down nice and slowly.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Shaved a bit more off today.. havn't got far as i was making a a holder for a DTI..
Not sure how to arrange the fins.. Any ideas? front to back, how wide should the gaps be?









Can somebody enlighten me on wiring up the stat led, I'm not getting the wiring here.. looking at it, it appears to be pumping 14.4v into the resistor..
and knocking off 11.9v before it reaches the leds..(P7's)
Or does the voltage still go to the driver from the battery and the wire from the Vin+ to the resistor just piggy back?


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Can't help with the stat led but I would run the fins front to back, 3mm x 3mm if you have the room, deeper if you have the space available


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I still have plenty of surface area, so ill make the fins as deep as possible to shave some more weight off.. 
Need to make the front piece and the driver cover and bolt them on, then cut the fins so they all line up nicely..

Cheers..


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## HEY HEY ITS HENDO (Feb 23, 2008)

oooohh nice lookin light GD:thumbsup: 
front to back
left to right 
top to bottom
really dont matter
just think surface area
lol, you beat me to it!!


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

The driver and P7s are not driven through the status led, the status led is just connected to the supply which is switched by the transistor on the driver. (so the driver can turn the status led on and off).


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Regarding the fin width I had always read that 4mm width was optimal to allow good convection and 2mm wide fins give good strength,

Your right, the resistor/ led anode piggybacks the battery IN+ with the led cathode going to the STAT. The bflex and the like had the current limiting led built into the board but not the hipflex.

I find it easiest to solder in the battery lead first leaving a bit of bare wire between the board and lead insulation. Then solder the resistor to the bit of exposed wire

By the way your light is looking really good. Can't wait to see the finished item:thumbsup:


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Thanks Hendo..MrLee..
With regards to the fins, emu26 said 3mm.. will 5mm be to wide?
I only say 5mm as the front measures 80x35mm so divisions of 5's would be easy..


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## acezone (Jul 6, 2010)

Goldigger said:


> )
> Or does the voltage still go to the driver from the battery and the wire from the Vin+ to the resistor just piggy back?


thats what it does the +ive of the batt does into the driver to do its business and also goes to the inducator led,


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

HEY HEY ITS HENDO said:


> front to back
> left to right
> top to bottom
> really dont matter
> ...


That would be true if GD was thinking of sitting around on his bike having a chat, but I assume he will be moving with it on ;-)

The idea is also to get airflow through the fins, this is increased when the fins are in the direction of the airflow, the reason you see most perpendicular, is they are easier to cut on a lathe.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

MrLee said:


> ............ the reason you see most perpendicular, is they are easier to cut on a lathe.


Damn straight Mr lee, perpendicular fins take about 1/16 of the time to machine than ones parallel to the air flow. If I wasn't married and had more time to make my lights then all would be parallel, but perpendicular stops me getting in trouble


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Cheers brad..
So 4mm it is.. at least 80mm / 4 = 20
Thats going to take a while!!!! lol
as for the sides.. bottom and top fin 5.5mm 6 x 4mm
Unless i give the outside edges a 45 degree cut....


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

Goldigger said:


> Cheers brad..
> So 4mm it is.. at least 80mm / 4 = 20
> Thats going to take a while!!!! lol
> as for the sides.. bottom and top fin 5.5mm 6 x 4mm
> Unless i give the outside edges a 45 degree cut....


I'd say 5mm will be ok, and if it is easier to make....

if you've not read it, then http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_sink is a good read.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

I'm with Mrlee. If 5mm is going to be easier and still give the same result go with them. Nothing worse than getting frustrated then mucking up.

If you think of the exposure lights they have no fins but are still able to keep cool just from the air flowing over the aluminium body when riding. When stationary however I bet they heat up pretty quick and the thermal overload will kick in. Going slow is where convection comes into play and therefore the wider gap between the fins will allow better air flow. This is also where the perpendicular fins can be good because you can machine a fin that is open at the top of bottom with only a small core. This enables natural convection to draw cold air form the bottom up through the heat sink fins and out the top. Good for when going up hills or stationary but in saying that most of us will reduce the led current when going slow. Man this type of debate could go on for hours.

I can borrow a thermal imaging camera from the university so I should make a couple of test housings and test the 2 schools of thought


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I dont have a clue how to do 3d in cad so this is as good as it gets..
Here's a shot of the front and the proposed fins..


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Go divisions of 5. 2mm wide fins with 3mm wide spaces between. Nice compromise.

I generally don't go as narrow as 2mm but thats because I cut mine on a compound saw and it is very difficult to keep them as accurate as you can on a mill. when its only 2mm wide and you are a little bit narrow on some and a little bit wide on others you can end up with a big variance when compared to each other.

You obviously won't have this problem


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

mmmmm.... you light should look good GD


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Nice one Brad.. :thumbsup: cheers
How many scooners do i owe you now?
wish i could knock up the 3D images.. 

Im Thinking of putting the momentary switch on the top above the driver.. and just have the cable running straight in the back and the stat led..Thats why i haven't milled off the angles on the rear yet, didn't want to cut them off and wish i hadn't.

I'll knock up some 2D cad drawings, as i dont have any 4/5mm slot drills..so all i can get done today is the front panel and driver cover..


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Have you tried google sketch to do the 3d rendering?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Here's the top with the switch shown..


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

looking good, what are you doing with the front faceplate? silicone sealer?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Thanks lee..
I'm still not sure how I'm going to seal the front lexan up, I didn't want to take the silicon approach..


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

were you thinking of just having the lexan on the front? I assumed you'd have a slice of the body as the front with a rebate for the lexan in the middle, but it looks like you are tight on space for that approach.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

MrLee said:


> were you thinking of just having the lexan on the front? I assumed you'd have a slice of the body as the front with a rebate for the lexan in the middle, but it looks like you are tight on space for that approach.


Thats the idea, but yeah tight on space..
Had 20 mins while the misses got ready so milled of the back bits..


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

This milling malarky takes bloody ages!
Spent 2 hours trying to figure out the best way to mount my digital scales, needless to say there still sitting on the dinner table.
Spent another 2 to 3 hours milling the front plate for this light and bodged it up


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Goldigger said:


> Thanks lee..
> I'm still not sure how I'm going to seal the front lexan up, I didn't want to take the silicon approach..


Nowt wrong with silly cone look on it as a customisable gasket .

put a smear of oil/grease on both sides and dont tighten the bolts hard untill the sealant has cured and you have a reusable gasket .

Where is your switch and cable / power entry going to be .

looks to me that your switch will foul the hipflex square bit


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> Nowt wrong with silly cone look on it as a customisable gasket .
> 
> put a smear of oil/grease on both sides and dont tighten the bolts hard untill the sealant has cured and you have a reusable gasket .
> 
> ...


In its current state your correct the switch will foul the hipflex, I need to bore out the hole a bit deeper.
Cable will come in from the rear, ill post a pic in a bit..


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Here's the plan from the rear..
Obviously the hole for the driver will be covered..


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

troutie-mtb said:


> Nowt wrong with silly cone look on it as a customisable gasket .
> 
> put a smear of oil/grease on both sides and dont tighten the bolts hard untill the sealant has cured and you have a reusable gasket .


vaseline works quite well for that.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

MrLee said:


> vaseline works quite well for that.


Innertube's work pretty well for gaskets too..
Just need patients cutting it to size, at least if you bodge one up you have plenty of innertube to make another one


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

So you've decided on an approach to the front then?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

here's a side view through the housing


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Todays work..
Rescued the front cover and started the driver cover,
Had to cut the driver cover from a big lump of ali!! thats why its still square!


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

MrLee said:


> So you've decided on an approach to the front then?


Might have to be silicone..

Any ideas?


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

Goldigger said:


> Might have to be silicone..
> 
> Any ideas?


I think your going to be pushed for options due to the tight space, do you think you have space to cut an o-ring groove in the body?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

MrLee said:


> I think your going to be pushed for options due to the tight space, do you think you have space to cut an o-ring groove in the body?


Maybe if i reduce the fins to 3mm deep..
Where do i get square/rectangle orings? I've seen strips that come in 1 meter lengths..
http://www.polymax.co.uk/acatalog/Solid_Cords.html


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

ebay? did a quick search for "o-ring cord" and it came up with various sizes - cost you less than £1.50 delivered - cut to size and glue the ends together.

You obviously want a bit of a radius on your corners - definitely something you want to try on a bit of scrap first!


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

(you could seal it under your lexan front and not have to worry about also trying to seal the lexan to the faceplate) - didn't brad72 do something similar?


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## HEY HEY ITS HENDO (Feb 23, 2008)

GD, why would you need square section o rings
regular o rings would seal/squish up good in a square recess/groove


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Yep, o'ring cord is cheap , just cut to size and glue the 2 ends together with loctite 406 or superglue. I use 1mm or 1.5mm dia cord.

An easy way to cut a small groove 1.4mm wide grove is to butcher a center drill by flattening the cutting tip if you can't get hold of a small slot drill. From memory a 1mm o'ring needs a groove 1.5mm wide x 0.7mm deep. Check this site for a comprehensive list http://www.epm.com/oring_grooves.htm


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

HEY HEY ITS HENDO said:


> GD, why would you need square section o rings
> regular o rings would seal/squish up good in a square recess/groove


lol... good point
I obviously need more sleep..


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

brad72 said:


> Yep, o'ring cord is cheap , just cut to size and glue the 2 ends together with loctite 406 or superglue. I use 1mm or 1.5mm dia cord.
> 
> An easy way to cut a small groove 1.4mm wide grove is to butcher a center drill by flattening the cutting tip if you can't get hold of a small slot drill. From memory a 1mm o'ring needs a groove 1.5mm wide x 0.7mm deep. Check this site for a comprehensive list http://www.epm.com/oring_grooves.htm


Will a 1mm oring be enough to seal it up?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1MM-DIAMETER-...084?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item588a2b990c


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

As long as the groove depth and width is correct and the groove is smooth it should not be a problem. Think if your dive watch with it's 0.5mm o'ring.

And as a side note what did the world do before ebay?


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

brad72 said:


> And as a side note what did the world do before ebay?


I dunno, what did the world do before the internet?

Neat looking project Golddigger, keeping my eye on it


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

brad72 said:


> And as a side note what did the world do before ebay?





mattthemuppet said:


> I dunno, what did the world do before the internet?


Used snail mail to run a letter thread in a circuit discussing optimal drip rates, run times, and best carbide sources for our acetylene headlamps? Road and trail riding would have been pretty similar excepting the amount of horse exhaust to navigate around. :thumbsup:


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

BrianMc said:


> Used snail mail to run a letter thread in a circuit discussing optimal drip rates, run times, and best carbide sources for our acetylene headlamps? Road and trail riding would have been pretty similar excepting the amount of horse exhaust to navigate around. :thumbsup:


I read your reply on my email and thought what the hell are you going on about..
Now that I can see the enclosed quotes it all makes sense


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

brad72 said:


> Yep, o'ring cord is cheap , just cut to size and glue the 2 ends together with loctite 406 or superglue. I use 1mm or 1.5mm dia cord.
> 
> An easy way to cut a small groove 1.4mm wide grove is to butcher a center drill by flattening the cutting tip if you can't get hold of a small slot drill. From memory a 1mm o'ring needs a groove 1.5mm wide x 0.7mm deep. Check this site for a comprehensive list http://www.epm.com/oring_grooves.htm


I never knew it was possible to write so much about o-rings! -

http://www.thesealman.com/pages/oring_handbook/pdf_files/epm_oring_handbook.pdf


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Today I drilled and tapped all the M2.5 holes,
Milled the front plate and driver cover to the correct dimensions..









also cut a slot in the rear of the front cover to fit the lexan sheet..










Beveled a few edges.









Need to cut the driver hole deeper and then start cutting the fins..

Anybody now how i bevel the inner edges of the front cover to look like this?


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

How did you bevel the bottom as it looks great. Can't you just use the same method for the front face?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

To bevel the outside edges i just mount the piece in the vice at 45 degrees using a square that has both 90 and 45 degrees.
Taking this approach wont give me the 45 degree angle where two bevelled edges meet in the corners as the cutter is round..

The only way i can see to do it is rotate my vice 45 degrees but this wont be very accurate as i wont be able to tell where 180 is in relation to the spindle..
I doubt i can clamp the piece to my rotary table so that it also sits at 45 degrees


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Hi about going almost to the corner and finish it off with a file?


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Would something like this help?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

yetibetty said:


> Would something like this help?


Is that a counter sink?
What i really should have done was bought a tilting rotary table


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Day 28 in the Goldigger house..
Its not bolted up tight as these arnt the right bolts, need to get a 2.6mm drill to widen the holes in the front/driver cover to accommodate the M2.5 bolts


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Goldigger said:


> Is that a counter sink?
> What i really should have done was bought a tilting rotary table


It's a burr, I have a few and they come in handy. you can also use dovetail milling cutters.

You're getting pretty good at using that milling machine, the lights looking great.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Cheers yeti,
Im still way off your league, I was just looking at your hope clone, really nice finish you achieved there:thumbsup: 
I'm going to have to attack mine with some 2000 grade paper.

I'm not starting the fins untilj I've attached my digital scales to the mill, postman didn't bring me the bolts I'm waiting for.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Nice of you to say so but I don't think that I could do what you do on a milling machine without lots of practice first.

I made the Hope clone back when all I had was a Dremel and a hacksaw and finnished it with 00 grade wire wool dipped into Solvo Autosol from Halfords. 
I wish I had a milling machine but our roof has sprung some leaks so bang goes the dosh for the mill. I now just use my tiny Taig lathe with vertical slide but it is tiny.

Edit: I just managed to get some Gun Kote from an ebay shop and have tried it on some scrap aluminium. Good tuff finnish.
Just thought I'd mention it as it's 2 cans for the price of one. I'll have to make another light now to use the stuff


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

She's looking really good GD. How is your wife coping with your new love


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

any more thoughts on the seal?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Yeti.. how the heck did you manage that with a dremel and hacksaw????
bloody good job..

Please share the link for the Gun Kote on ebay, I might spray the light with it..
edit... was it this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KAL-GARD-GUN-...86?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item43a2cc94e6

Are you baking your parts? says to bake for one hour at 300 degrees!!

Cheers Brad, I'm lucky in that respect with the mrs.. she's been working away most weekends..
So she cant complain
Although i did talk to her today and she asked what i was doing, I said gues..
Shes replys that f---ing machine!!


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Yes GD that's the seller and yes I baked it on. Remember that's 300 degrees F and that's only 148 C don't know what gas mark that is though. It says dark grey but it's almost black.

The hope clone started off very ugly and was far too much work (never again)


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

ah silly me.. i was thinking my oven only goes to 250, but as its centigrade nothing to worry about..
must be having a blonde moment!
Whats all the copper coloured stuff on the hope clone?

I'll order some Gun Kote:thumbsup: 

Cheers


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

I thought exactly the same as my oven only goes to 200!!!
This is an old thread on the use of Gun Kote

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=492481&highlight=gun+coat

I have done a pair of wheel nuts and that's it so far so can't realy say how good it is on a light yet.

The copper colour is just reflection from incandescant light but it did take on a slight copper look after I polished (more like burnt) it with the Dremel @ 20,000rpm


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

MrLee said:


> any more thoughts on the seal?


I went for the 1mm rubber chord http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380275235084

Im going to to drop the cooling fins to 3mm deep that should leave me 4mm to cut a 1.4mm grove for the rubber chord.
If i cut a step round the outside of the lexan lens i should be able to put a run of the rubber chord round it..

On a side note, anybody know where to get battery terminals from? the little springy things that connect to each end of the battery?


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

Goldigger said:


> I went for the 1mm rubber chord http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380275235084
> 
> Im going to to drop the cooling fins to 3mm deep that should leave me 4mm to cut a 1.4mm grove for the rubber chord.
> If i cut a step round the outside of the lexan lens i should be able to put a run of the rubber chord round it..
> ...


ask sdnative - he's used a bunch for his battery holders. I'm guessing Digikey, but I wouldn't have a clue what the part # is.


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## odtexas (Oct 2, 2008)

Here is an option for  battery clips .


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

odtexas said:


> Here is an option for  battery clips .


Nice find cheers OD
Im not sure they will be big enough for a 18650??


----------



## HEY HEY ITS HENDO (Feb 23, 2008)

GD, only groove the body and leave the lexan flat, the lexan will be pulled up against the o ring to form the waterproof seal
if you cut a 1.4mm groove then your 1mm o ring won`t be thick enough to be compressed
http://www.engineersedge.com/general_engineering/oring_gland_size_static_flange.htm
you can see the *compression %* averages 20-30 but since you have no pressure or vacuum, yours can be less%


----------



## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

could do the same for the driver hatch cover?


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

HEY HEY ITS HENDO said:


> GD, only groove the body and leave the lexan flat, the lexan will be pulled up against the o ring to form the waterproof seal
> if you cut a 1.4mm groove then your 1mm o ring won`t be thick enough to be compressed
> https://www.engineersedge.com/general_engineering/oring_gland_size_static_flange.htm
> you can see the *compression %* averages 20-30 but since you have no pressure or vacuum, yours can be less%


How big does my groove need to be?
What i was thinking of doing was having two orings, one on the back of the lexan sealing into the groove in the main housing.
then creating a step in the lexan to take the second oring chord sealing the lexan to the front of the front plate..
Hopefully this pic explains it better


----------



## HEY HEY ITS HENDO (Feb 23, 2008)

nice diagram!..... first off i aint no expert but assuming you want 10% compression and your o ring is 1mm
then it figures that the groove would need to be 0.9mm deep
but the 10% compressed bit has to go somewhere, so make the groove not less than 1.1mm wide
second opinion needed here folks.....


----------



## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

For a 1mm O ring I would go 0.9mm and 1.3 mm wide.
This should give some room to bend the O ring around the corners as it's not going to be round but more of a sot of rectangle.


----------



## bravellir (Nov 24, 2008)

I don't see the need for the oring between the cover plate and the lexan. The one between the lexan and the body will be enough to waterproof the light.
Edit: In fact, the whole faceplate could be just a piece of lexan. Would make it simple and lighter.



> Im going to to drop the cooling fins to 3mm deep that should leave me 4mm to cut a 1.4mm grove for the rubber chord.
> ..


You should keep the fins as deep as possible. It will help cooling and will make the body a lot lighter. If you do need that 4mm, then cut the fins 3 mm in the first 5mm or so from the front of the body and cut the rest deeper.


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

bravellir said:


> I don't see the need for the oring between the cover plate and the lexan. The one between the lexan and the body will be enough to waterproof the light.
> Edit: In fact, the whole faceplate could be just a piece of lexan. Would make it simple and lighter.
> 
> You should keep the fins as deep as possible. It will help cooling and will make the body a lot lighter. If you do need that 4mm, then cut the fins 3 mm in the first 5mm or so from the front of the body and cut the rest deeper.


Sorry to be perdantic but i worked out that cutting the grooves to 4mm deep rather than 3mm deep will only save 9.29grams of weight.. not really a lot lighter


----------



## bravellir (Nov 24, 2008)

you're right, 10 grs may not worth the trouble


----------



## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

yetibetty said:


> For a 1mm O ring I would go 0.9mm and 1.3 mm wide.
> This should give some room to bend the O ring around the corners as it's not going to be round but more of a sot of rectangle.


You'd want a bit of a radius on the corners anyway?


----------



## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

bravellir said:


> I don't see the need for the oring between the cover plate and the lexan. The one between the lexan and the body will be enough to waterproof the light.
> .


I tend to agree, not sure what the other seal is giving you.


----------



## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

A rubber seal (o-ring in this case) on both sides of a glass lens cover is a good practice. It helps prevent stress cracking. With a lexan cover you only need to seal it on the housing side.


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

The idea is to stop water getting behind the lexan sheet and just sitting there..just seems a good idea to reduce entry points where water may easily penetrate..


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Now that I've got the mill set up properly and the digital scales mounted lifes a bit easier.
I found an hour to start the cooling fins..
The bolt heads will be sunk so that they dont protrude..


----------



## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Looking good GD. Got your new vice, the digital scales, there'll be no stopping you now, except for time and the other half. 

Look forward to seeing the finished result


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

ooh, nice! However, I would have given you +10 internet points if you'd used an old school tape measure gaffa taped onto the mill instead  Your variance would be an order of magnitude higher, but it would have looked cool..


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

Ahhhhh, reminds me of some of my classes at University. Started with the manual mills (DON'T CRASH THE BIT!), then CNC. Of course some people would crash the bit and Prof. Hollingsworth would go on and on about how that's why we start with the manuals before CNC. That and the (well like 1 cute one) girls laughing when we talked about deep hole drilling.....


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

brad72 said:


> Looking good GD. Got your new vice, the digital scales, there'll be no stopping you now, except for time and the other half.
> 
> Look forward to seeing the finished result


Thanks guys, 
that's the crap vice, the new one hasn't turned up yet..
I reckon if I can do a little bit every night it should be finished by the weekend..


----------



## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Fins at last 
Looking good but how do you keep it all so tidy and swarf free? My spare room looks like a swarf factory.


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

yetibetty said:


> Fins at last
> Looking good but how do you keep it all so tidy and swarf free? My spare room looks like a swarf factory.


lol..I have a dedicated old hover that practically sits next to the mill..
Plus i have to clear up as we have a house rabbit..


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

more fins.. 12 to go..


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

All fins finally done.. and well past my bedtime!


----------



## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

that's looking fantastic. Bet you can't wait to fire it up 

let us know the weight too..


----------



## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

You never said what you ended up doing about the seal.


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

MrLee said:


> You never said what you ended up doing about the seal.


Hey just enjoy the beauty of it..

If i told you about the seal id have to kill you


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## klynk (Apr 18, 2010)

Beautiful light. But where is the switch?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

klynk said:


> Beautiful light. But where is the switch?


At the moment it has a virtual switch

It's on the shelf waiting for a hole to stick it in ill hopefully have this light finished this weekend..

1. Need to mill the groove for the o-ring
2. Mill the driver hole deeper
3. Mill hole for the switch
4. Mill hole for cable
5. Bevel the outer edges
6. Counter sink bolt heads on face plate
7. Break out the soldering Iron..


----------



## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Hey I've just spotted this work of art.

Goldigger, don't rush the last bits just to get it fired up.


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Thanks Yeti..
Thats my main fear now... It's come so far i dont want to make the one little mistake that writes it off..


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

mattthemuppet said:


> that's looking fantastic. Bet you can't wait to fire it up
> 
> let us know the weight too..


At the moment its around 250grams..
Still got some material to remove from the driver compartment so hopefully get it to 220grams..


----------



## klynk (Apr 18, 2010)

Goldigger said:


> Still got some material to remove from the driver compartment so hopefully get it to 220grams..


Anyway, the light looks great. Bomb-proof style


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Anybody know of a silver momantary switch like this?
maybe a metal one with a led in the center...
I think the black plastic one looks a bit cheap and lets the light down on looks..
The black one has a m12 thread..the top of the thread to the tip of the contacts in 13mm. Needs to be simular dimensions.


----------



## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

Goldigger said:


> At the moment its around 250grams..
> Still got some material to remove from the driver compartment so hopefully get it to 220grams..


wow, that's not much, especially for such an awesome looking light


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Well, I wont be finishing the O-ring groove...I snapped the 1mm slot drill!!!!!!!
I did manage to get the lexan to fit the face plate nicely..


----------



## odtexas (Oct 2, 2008)

Not exactly sure on the switch, but usually metal momentary are the "Vandal Resistant" switches.

Here is a  link  to some.


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

I think you might have problems getting one that shallow, something like this still runs at about 20mm mount depth. No led either.










https://uk.farnell.com/bulgin/mp0037-3/switch-spno-anti-vandal/dp/3248835


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

That is a piece of art. make me one :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I've run into problem.. I need to cut the round hole deeper for the driver..
For the life of me i cant get the bloody light head clamped to the rotary table..
I've spent about an hour faffing around with it, and got nowhere apart from more [email protected] off with it..











I was considering just cutting out a deeper square hole where the round hole is for the driver.. but then this will leave no room for an oring..

Any ideas thoughts?

I dont really want to have to resort to buying another 4 jaw chuck!!


----------



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

A round thing will fit nicely in the square hole so I would go for that 
and revel:thumbsup: in the extra weight saving .

You could then trace around the bolt holes too for even bigger weight saving .


Look on it as a blessing Round sucks


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> A round thing will fit nicely in the square hole so I would go for that
> and revel:thumbsup: in the extra weight saving .
> 
> You could then trace around the bolt holes too for even bigger weight saving .
> ...


Cheers Chris..

The weight saving had crossed my mind as i dont need all that material round the driver..

How about keeping water out from the driver? how would you seal it up?


----------



## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

A boring head mounted in the chuck would work with the light clamped directly to the mill table but if you don't have one then that's more dosh.

I would go with Trouties idea unless you have a boring head.


----------



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Goldigger said:


> Cheers Chris..
> 
> How about keeping water out from the driver? how would you seal it up?


Easy peasy make a gasket from the good old silly cone .

for easy release coat both surfaces with oil / grease apply the silicon but dont fully tighten the bolts untill the silcon has cured


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> Easy peasy make a gasket from the good old silly cone .
> 
> for easy release coat both surfaces with oil / grease apply the silicon but dont fully tighten the bolts untill the silcon has cured


Am i just applying it to a flat surface? or do i still need a groove cut for it?


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

yetibetty said:


> A boring head mounted in the chuck would work with the light clamped directly to the mill table but if you don't have one then that's more dosh.
> 
> I would go with Trouties idea unless you have a boring head.


When i bought the rotary table i played with the idea of a boring head...
Looks like i walked away with the wrong tool for the job..Boring head does seem a bit easier, but Im unsure what the removal rate is on one of those..
Arnt they more suited to making existing holes larger? so the cutting edge wouldn't nessecarily span the full diameter or the circle?


----------



## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

It works just the same as a boring bar on a lathe exept for the fact that the boring bar rotates and not the work. It would be quite hard to get the bottom of the hole flat though.

I think that you have the correct tool but unfortunately didn't make the hole deeper before any more meat was removed from the housing.

How much deeper do you need to go?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I need another 10mm!!


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Hole saw down to 10mm then mill out the centre stump that will be left behind?
Or is that daft?
It has worked for me in the past though.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Yeti that was exactly what had come on here to post.

a 1" holesaw will be big enough to the driver, I'm assuming a bflex. You won't need the pilot bit attached as the existing hole will keep the holesaw located properly. Then just clean everything up with the mill.


----------



## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

emu26 said:


> Yeti that was exactly what had come on here to post.
> 
> a 1" holesaw will be big enough to the driver, I'm assuming a bflex. You won't need the pilot bit attached as the existing hole will keep the holesaw located properly. Then just clean everything up with the mill.


emu it's for a HipFlex but I have managed to make an MR11 housing from a solid bar just by using hole saws so it should work. Very slow RPM required!


----------



## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

I also think that's the way to go before giving up. ;-)


----------



## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Curse the slower server and impatient finger.

double post, sorry


----------



## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

yetibetty said:


> emu it's for a HipFlex but I have managed to make an MR11 housing from a solid bar just by using hole saws so it should work. Very slow RPM required!


I think it was your build that put me on to it.

I had tried dremel, doing manually in a drill press with an end mill and a slide vice, very expensive large diameter drill bits, all without success. Then I used the hole saw and couldn't believe how much better it was. You're right about the slow rpm though. I find my battery drill better than the drill press because the variable speed can go so low., start the pilot hole in the press though to make sure it is nice and straight.

The other great one I have found for holes up to 20mm is the step drill, but that obviuosly won't work here.

Don't give up Goldigger, but if you do want to start again let me know and I'll PM you my address so your old housing doesn't go to waste


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Cheers guys...
I just find that some really easy tasks can consume so much time on the mill...and all i want to do is get this light finished fire it up...then move onto the next build..

I wont give up


----------



## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Hi GD. This button from Farnell is what you are looking for http://uk.farnell.com/itw-switches/59-113/switch-spno-round-green/dp/519339?crosssellid=519339&crosssell=true&in_merch=true&

With regards to the boring head I think that would give you just as many frustrations. Because of chatter the boring head can only remove about 1mm of material for each cut, so your looking at least 15 passes with stopping, adjusting etc to get the job done, plus the base of the hole will not be nice and smooth like it is now using the rotary table. To be honest I mainly use my boring head to enlarge open holes, and the rotary table for blind holes.


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Another update in the Goldigger House..
Cut the hole out..
Drilled the hole for the wires from the driver compartment to the leds..
Cut the hole for the switch..
Total weight without the clamp is 225grams.. i dont have any digital scales so that roughly 225..


----------



## jbflyfshr (Jul 24, 2006)

very nice work...

I would make the bottom fins a bit deeper under the driver to pull heat but you might not need it...sort of curve them. Looks like you have enough spare material to loose anyway.

my .5 cents. Didn't have all 2 cents to spare


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Regarding the seal on the front, do we all agree that the groove for the oring needs to be 1.4mm wide?

But how deep? 0.90mm

Rubber chord is 1mm


On another note, what battery pack do i need? 14.4v 5000 mah?


----------



## cncwhiz (Sep 8, 2010)

For what it's worth, I've never cut a groove out for an o ring, but i bet a center drill would work fine. I use them to draw with..like if i need to write something in a part I will use a small center drill and program on the center of the tool. they come in different sizes so you shoud be able to find one to cut to the width you need. 

The light is looking good. I see you had a problem holding it in your rotary table. It probably could have been done, but you would have had to cut a little, remove the clamp/s and reposition, cut a little more, remove clamp/s and reposition etc. I've run into a problem like that before.


----------



## HEY HEY ITS HENDO (Feb 23, 2008)

..Nicely done there GD,....
one of my favourit bar clamps from lumicycle too i see
aint cheap but jeez do they grip....
re the o groove, try it first on some scrap.. at 1mm dia there aint much for error margin
so you`de best get it right eh!!
1.4mm wide sounds a lot if your going 0.9mm deep,
i would be tempted to try more o ring compression and go 0.8mm deep


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

All wired up..
Used one of turbo ferrets Battery holders for temporary measure, will create a delrin battery holder for it..
Still deciding if i should take the gun kote spray to it to..


----------



## cncwhiz (Sep 8, 2010)

Very clean job on the wiring. It looks good man


----------



## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

wow, congratulations GD, this has been quite a journey!

I'd vote for bare alu (or clear coat at most) - it looks awesome and always with. I painted my light (black heatsink on a silver body doesn't look good) and it's already starting to chip off and look tatty. Thankfully I like the tatty aesthetic, but I think it would spoil this light.

Anodising now, that's another kettle of fish


----------



## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Goldigger don't melt that plastic chopping board 

I've sprayed a few things with GunKote now and I like it a lot but it takes a bit of practice getting an even covering. You'll have to take the light apart again in order to bake it in the oven though.

You must be pleased with that light, very well done.


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Thanks cnc and matt..
This has been a journey and a huge learning curve, but for my 1st light made on the mill I'm very chuffed. Thanks to all the help you guys have provided especially brad and all the other mill/lathe users..
My second light should be easier and quicker.. 

I just ran into a little problem.. I was just putting foil on a chicken and touched the light with the foil..
It turned on.. i tried it with a knife it turned on.. any ideas?
Only thing i can think off is that i havent put any paste on the bottom of the led boards at the moment..I'm guessing the P7's are conductive?

I didnt put any paste on as all i have in the house is artice silver epoxy, i want to be able to remove the leds so i can swap them out when the XM-L's are out..
I will put some cpu paste on the backs when i pick up a tube during the week..


----------



## cncwhiz (Sep 8, 2010)

Goldigger said:


> I just ran into a little problem.. I was just putting foil on a chicken and touched the light with the foil..
> It turned on.. i tried it with a knife it turned on.. any ideas?
> Only thing i can think off is that i havent put any paste on the bottom of the led boards at the moment..I'm guessing the P7's are conductive?..


Sounds like you have a grounding issue or a bare wire touching the inside of the housing somewhere. I would go back and double check for sure. The wrong short could ruin your electronics.


----------



## HEY HEY ITS HENDO (Feb 23, 2008)

the flex drivers are known to be extremely sensitive to external influences
even remote switch wiring can act as an antenna causing apparent weird self switching
....Top job GD :thumbsup:


----------



## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

Goldigger said:


> Thanks cnc and matt..
> This has been a journey and a huge learning curve, but for my 1st light made on the mill I'm very chuffed. Thanks to all the help you guys have provided especially brad and all the other mill/lathe users..
> My second light should be easier and quicker..


you're welcome, projects like this are a huge inspiration, even to people without the means of copying them  My 2nd light is also going waaaay quicker - hopefully it'll be done in a few days rather than a few weeks!



Goldigger said:


> I just ran into a little problem.. I was just putting foil on a chicken


and you were using a high powered bike light to put foil on a chicken why?!


----------



## odtexas (Oct 2, 2008)

mattthemuppet said:


> and you were using a high powered bike light to put foil on a chicken why?!


Many of us here use our higher powered lights to flash fry around the kitchen. 

Chicken cook time is 7 minutes a pound at 3000 lumens.


----------



## JezV (Oct 31, 2009)

MrLee said:


> I think you might have problems getting one that shallow, something like this still runs at about 20mm mount depth. No led either.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Here's something similar with an LED option. Looks a nice switch but the length of the LED one is 28mm, too long for my next project. The non-LED version is a more reasonable 18mm.
https://www.rapidonline.com/Electro...e-vandal-resistant-push-button-switches/81474


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Doh I've incinerated the chicken, do you think i should use it on low? 









It turns on when ever it touches anything metal, I'm guessing it's the leds as my wiring and soldering was a good job..
I'll test it by putting a piece of paper under the stars and then touch the body with something metal..


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

yetibetty said:


> Goldigger don't melt that plastic chopping board
> 
> I've sprayed a few things with GunKote now and I like it a lot but it takes a bit of practice getting an even covering. You'll have to take the light apart again in order to bake it in the oven though.
> 
> You must be pleased with that light, very well done.


Thanks Yeti 

Any chance you can post some pics of your spray jobs with the GunKote please.. it may just convince me to do it..

I need to take some 2000 grade paper to the housing at least and some autosol metal polish..


----------



## Toaster79 (Apr 5, 2010)

How did you mount your starboards? Screwed them down, glued them, applyed some thermal grease and let the reflectors and front cover do the rest of the job, by pressing tem down?


----------



## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Yes I'll try and take some pics.

If you keep it raw try some 00 grade wire wool with the autosol, comes out very bling.


----------



## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Spayed this a while back but just gave it a rub with some wire wool to see how tough it is.

I think you would need a good few coats and maybe better off keeping it raw


----------



## HEY HEY ITS HENDO (Feb 23, 2008)

+1 for the raw look...........
or a good ano colour


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

yetibetty said:


> Spayed this a while back but just gave it a rub with some wire wool to see how tough it is.
> 
> I think you would need a good few coats and maybe better off keeping it raw


I imagine trying to get the GunKote in between the fins can be a PITA..

I think i'll polish it up..

Thanks..
:thumbsup:


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Toaster79 said:


> How did you mount your starboards? Screwed them down, glued them, applyed some thermal grease and let the reflectors and front cover do the rest of the job, by pressing tem down?


some thermal grease and let the reflectors and front cover do the rest of the job, by pressing them down..

Would have screwed them down but waiting for the XM-L leds before i drill any more holes..


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

yetibetty said:


> Yes I'll try and take some pics.
> 
> If you keep it raw try some 00 grade wire wool with the autosol, comes out very bling.


I'm waiting for the post man to bring me some 2000/2500 grade wet n dry paper..

Meanwhile I took a brillo pad to it.. gives a nice brushed ali look..
For our freinds over seas from the UK, a brillo pad is a wire wool pad with soap in it for washing up burnt pots and pans..

Whats a good temp for cut off on temp sensing? I have the Hipflex set to 60º
This beast gets hot sat on the table.. 6:30 mins and its dropping to a lower level  
Should be no problem outside when moving though..


----------



## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

Goldigger said:


> Whats a good temp for cut off on temp sensing? I have the Hipflex set to 60º
> This beast gets hot sat on the table.. 6:30 mins and its dropping to a lower level
> Should be no problem outside when moving though..


I read somewhere on here that 60C cut off equals ~80-85C at the LED (thermal junction coefficient came into it), which seems safe for the LEDs. Mine's set at 70C simply because a press became a click and I couldn't be arised to go back and change it


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

All polished up...
used wet n dry paper, different grades then autosol metal polish..


----------



## cncwhiz (Sep 8, 2010)

You're pretty good at this for your first time messing with it. I polish stuff too, and when I say you say you were going ot polish I wondered if you could pull that off. Looks like you did fine. It looks really nice


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Thanks mate.. I'm pretty chuffed with the way it looks now..


Just need to start on the battery pack for it now..


----------



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

MMMM Shiny :thumbsup: arn`t you going to polish the grooves  


Did you realise a polished surface is worse at shedding heat than a non polished one .

But dont worry no heat problems here in Blighty 


Looking very nice Jay and been fun watching your progress .
I hope you have had a fair old amount of satisfaction too .


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

troutie-mtb said:


> MMMM Shiny :thumbsup: arn`t you going to polish the grooves
> 
> Did you realise a polished surface is worse at shedding heat than a non polished one .
> 
> ...


I polished the grooves to a degree.. I hope your just being Cheaky..

Yep I was aware of polished surfaces shedding less heat.. but I thought ignore all physics and go for bling 

It has been fun.. although a long time in the making..

Cheers Chris


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Here's the beamshots i promised on the other tripple P7 thread.

1000mah








1400mah








2000mah








2400mah








2800mah









And just to throw something else in the mix, here's some of my dive light that uses a SST-50 with an aspheric fresnel focusable lens - 1250 lumens on high
33% tight








100% tight








33% tight








100% tight








33% wide








100%wide


----------



## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

wow, that dive light is insane! Good job the Germans didn't have that during WW2 or the RAF would have been toast 

love the beam pattern of your light though, super smooth, wide and looks like it throws a loooong way, especially in the higher settings.
So, what's next? Quad triple XM-L?


----------



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I'm going to change the switch for one of these that are the same size but have a led built into them..









PDF
Manufacturers Part No. 48-1-RB-B-BK-B
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=7027021

I've read the Hipflex pdf on how to calculate the resistor required.

To calculate the value of R1 we need to know the input voltage, the Vf of the LED and the desired
drive current to the LED.
Assuming a 14.4V nominal battery pack and a Red LED with a Vf of 2.5V and a desired drive current
of 10mA provides all the information we need.
R1 = (14.4V - 2.5V) / 10mA = 11.9 / 0.010 = 1190 ohms or choosing the next larger standard 5%
resistor would give a value of 1.2K ohms.
Power dissipation in the resistor is I * I * R = 0.010 x 0.010 x 1200 = 0.12W, so choose a 1/4W
resistor.

My pack is a 14.4v but i cannot see on the pdf for the switch the forward voltage of the led in the switch, all is says is 20ma
"Current limiting resistor
is required to limit LED
forward Current to 20 mA."

My question is what resistor do i need?


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## HEY HEY ITS HENDO (Feb 23, 2008)

i`m guessing they are all 3mm white leds
and a coloured insert in each case

look on this page

http://www.led-tech.de/en/Light-Emitting-Diodes/3mm-LEDs/Standard-LED-LT-3_1_3.html
and click on the link next to the resistor table 
"individual resistor calculation"


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

HEY HEY ITS HENDO said:


> i`m guessing they are all 3mm white leds
> and a coloured insert in each case
> 
> look on this page
> ...


Assuming that, I make that a 0.32 resistor. I have both 0.32 and 0.39 in my box of bits.


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## HEY HEY ITS HENDO (Feb 23, 2008)

...ahh just a thought
would you really need it that bright eg full 20ma at night
probably better with a `glow`
750ohm 0.25w
... http://www.led-tech.de/en/Technic-und-Supply/Resistors/Resistor-750-Ohm-LT-52_29_33.html


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Little update to the old thread..
With all the snow we had, post man finally delivered the carbide 1mm slot drill i was waiting for..so i took the painfull task of cutting the groove in the front for the o-ring chord.
The small bit in the corner was what i used as a gauge for compression, by squashing it down with a piece of lexan.. Silicone grease helps it stay in the groove nicely for assembly. it's not fantastic but it will do..









I also had to mill some ali of the back to allow for the new IP67 connector and cut the M8x0.5 thread..









With the cable plugged in









Driver cover will get silicone treatment around the inner edges


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Light looks fantastic mate. Would be too cold for you to go out riding I would imagine but you can still in the lounge and caress your light whilst watching TV, then quickly buff off the finger prints 

Hopefully Father Christmas can find his way to you through all the snow and bring you some goodies. Have and great Christmas and a happy new year

Brad


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Thanks Brad..
I quiet like riding in the snow..but it's a bit of a mess out there now. It's no longer a fresh crisp covering..

Have a good xmas to..


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Any experts on the stat led? I've wired it up to the new switch with the led incorperated..








When i connect it up to the battery pack it flashes a couple of times and the led switches off.. if i turn the light onto the higest level it constantly flashes.. I assume this is warning me that the batterys are low.?
What levels should i set my voltage warnings to? I'm using a 14.8v pack these are also protected 18650 cells..

Cheers..


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

It depends on the discharge curve of the cells you are using, usually the curve dips around 3volts, so say 12v for the battery?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Strangley the whole thing is not working now!
Don't have a clue why.. I'm wondering if my hipflex has died


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## Itess (Feb 22, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> I also had to mill some ali of the back to allow for the new IP67 connector and cut the M8x0.5 thread..


What connector is that?


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Goldigger said:


> Any experts on the stat led? I've wired it up to the new switch with the led incorperated..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If you get it working again then 14.3v for medium 12.7 for low and 12v cut off (3v per cell).

These settings have worked great for me for years and not going below 3v per cell has kept my battery packs going 'till now, their 5th year. They are on their last legs now though.

Good Luck.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

wiring up the stat led...
Vin + to resistor to + leg of led then - leg of led to stat pin on hipflex?

The other hipflex has died..


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## Toaster79 (Apr 5, 2010)

I'd say the stat goes to + leg of the LED and the rest goes to any - on the board.


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

Itess said:


> What connector is that?


Hirschmann (as featured on the new liberators)

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=2906376

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0282899


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

ok im not getting this wiring diagram


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

Toaster79 said:


> I'd say the stat goes to + leg of the LED and the rest goes to any - on the board.


I would have gone for that too, but it isn't -



> The STAT pin can be wired the the cathode of a status LED. The anode of the LED should be wired to a current limiting resistor and then to IN+.


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## Toaster79 (Apr 5, 2010)

My bad, haven't read any of the taskled manual for a wile.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I originally had it like this on the hipflex that died..


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

Looks ok, is it possible you shorted something out elsewhere? what value resistor you using?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

orange, white, silver, gold, 0.39 ohms..
14.8v battery
?


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

I don't know if that makes much difference to the driver, but I would have thought you should be looking at something like 1K for the led with a 14.8v source.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

whats the colours for a 1k resistor? it confuses me when the pdf says watts.. and i have them in ohms..


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

I would have thought it would have blown the led to be honest, 1K will give you about 12mA - brown, black, red.

watts refer to power, not resistance. you should be ok with a 1/4 watt resistor.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I never got to the bottom of what is required for the led in the switch, forward voltage not sure but 20ma..
http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0e2a/0900766b80e2ad0f.pdf

dont have any 1k resisitors..

Cheers


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

20mA would be ok, but you may want to go lower as you'll be using it at night. What resistors have you got to hand? - you can put a few in series if needs be.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I've got:
0.33ohms
orange/white/silver/gold 0.39ohms
blue/grey/silver/gold 0.68ohms
brown/black/gold/gold 1ohms
red/red/gold/gold 2.2ohms
red/violet/gold/gold 2.7ohms
orange/orange/gold/gold 3.3ohms
red/violet/red/gold 2.7kohms


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

Try two 2.7K in parallel, that will give you 1.35K resulting in just under ~10mA 
see if that is bright enough in the dark for what you want.


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## bravellir (Nov 24, 2008)

experiment witdh the switch led and resistors plugged just to the battery


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

these should do the job?
http://www.cricklewoodelectronics.com/Cricklewood/product.php?productid=16234&cat=0&page=1


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

My connector has a 3rd wire is there any reason why I can't add this to the + on the battery then add the resistor to it rather than piggy backing the other lead that goes to the in+ on the hipflex?

To work out the resistor based on vf2.5 @ 20ma of the led and a 14.8v battery..
14.8-2.5/0.020=615 next resistor up I think is a 750 ohm
0.020x0.020x750=0.3 so a 1/2 watt resistor?

edit: there is a 680ohm resistor..but 750 should be ok

This is quiet handy..
http://www.bpesolutions.com/atechnical/ResistorQV.pdf


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

There is also 620ohm 

But yes, you should move to 1/2 watt. Personally, I think you might find it a little bright at night. As bravellir suggests, give the 1.35K a go on the battery in the dark.

Also cheaper to buy on ebay or from farnell.

Edit: You could use the third lead on the connector, but it doesn't really give you anything.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

MrLee said:


> There is also 620ohm
> 
> But yes, you should move to 1/2 watt. Personally, I think you might find it a little bright at night. As bravellir suggests, give the 1.35K a go on the battery in the dark.
> 
> ...


 Ok I've used the two resistors in parallel 1.35k, its a bit tight in the driver compartment now.
I covered the bare ends of the resistors with silicone to avoid any shorts.
All is working fine now, just need to set the voltage warnings.

Cheers guys..


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## MrLee (May 28, 2010)

Any noticeable difference in brightness?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

MrLee said:


> Any noticeable difference in brightness?




```

```
Yes its dimmer.. as its blue nobody can mistake me for the police when it starts to flash now its not so bright  
altough people might move out my way on the track ..


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