# Stripped and stuck 5mm stem bolt



## UpstateCP (Jul 24, 2019)

This 5mm stem bolt got over torqued and then stripped when trying to remove. I have tried EVERYTHING and nothing is even making it budge, if anything it's just rounding out the hole even more. What are my options here?










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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Screw extractor. Try Grabits. They chuck into an impact/drill, but you absolutely shouldn't use them like that. Get them in, then use a bit ratchet/etc, to unscrew it.


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

8nm seems really high for a stem. Any normal screw extractor will work, just normal bolt extraction procedures. They're available at any hardware store, and they're fairly affordable.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vermont...its-and-5-Extractors-10-Piece-21829/202850653

I like that style. The ryobi ones are especially poor quality if you're going to home depot, so skip those.


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## isleblue65 (Sep 5, 2009)

For small shallow holes, this style works best. I have sets of both types as well as left hand drill bits. With a combination of liquid wrench soaking, LH drill over sizing the hole (which will sometimes back out the bolt), and a multi spline extractor, you will get it out. Chances are you will not remove it with a standard screw extractor.










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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Extractors can/may work and are certainly worth a try. Drilling the head out is pretty straightforward too, and will def work.


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

I've had some success with tapping in a torx wrench if it's not too bad. Otherwise, they got you pretty well sorted. :thumbsup:


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## isleblue65 (Sep 5, 2009)

Drilling the head will release clamp pressure, but if you want to save the stem, you still have to get the threaded part of the bolt out. If you don’t care about the stem, this is the quickest method. 


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Also, you can try tightening the other bolt a bit (make sure you don't strip it too!) and see if that relieves the pressure on the stripped one enough to get it out with the normal hex tool. I assume when it happened you were alternating between each bolt as you undid them. This doesn't matter for this situation, but may save you (or others) in the future.

Tim


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## LarryFahn (Jul 19, 2005)

Take a Torx wrench to it. It will grab the very tight corners.

That said, Raceface needs to change that torque spec. I bought an Aeffect stem also and tightened it to spec (85in/lbs). A year later I adjusted the height and reinstalled it. Switching back and forth between the two bolts, the bottom one started getting easy to tighten... The aluminum threads in the stem had stripped. I used a helicoil to fix it, but I went back to my OE stem and never reused the RF one. IMHO, the torque spec is WAY TOO HIGH. Most other stems are around 5nm / 45in/lbs. 

Ttyl, Fahn


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## eshew (Jan 30, 2004)

Jb weld on the end of Allen key cured 24 hours works pretty darn well


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## Eu_gene (Dec 16, 2020)

For 5mm stem bolt it seems that an extractor from the Oria kit would be best suited. 



  





There's just the right size. And the extractor itself fits a standard hex bit holder.


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## Lemonaid (May 13, 2013)

If all else fails get this:

Dewalt Cobalt Drill Bit


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

If you're going to drill, get a left-hand bit. They remove stuck, stripped, bolts better than any 'EZ out' type tool I've every used.


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## paxfobiscum (Dec 16, 2014)

This latest Park Tool Hex wrench comes with an integrated "Strip-Gripper" twisted hex that makes removal of most bolts with stripped or oversized fittings fast and easy.
After you removed that stripped bolt, you can sell me this Hex set for 50% off since you used it already. I will even pay for shipping.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

paxfobiscum said:


> View attachment 1914163
> 
> 
> This latest Park Tool Hex wrench comes with an integrated "Strip-Gripper" twisted hex that makes removal of most bolts with stripped or oversized fittings fast and easy.
> After you removed that stripped bolt, you can sell me this Hex set for 50% off since you used it already. I will even pay for shipping.


It's not a bad concept (bought from a smaller manufacturer, EVT?--I can't recall the name), but it isn't intended to replace proper extractors. The short multi-spline extractors posted earlier, or Grabbits, are the right tool here.

By the way, cheap[er] T-handles are cheap for a reason: they usually make the long handle out of chromoly instead of tool steel. The long end of the Silca t-handles didn't even make it a week in the shop before they started to wear unacceptably. After trying two other sets of "not Beta/PB Swiss" sliding T-handles from 'reputable' sources, I'm leary of the price of the Park ones, versus what you'll be delivered.


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## paxfobiscum (Dec 16, 2014)

wschruba said:


> It's not a bad concept (bought from a smaller manufacturer, EVT?--I can't recall the name), but it isn't intended to replace proper extractors. The short multi-spline extractors posted earlier, or Grabbits, are the right tool here.
> 
> By the way, cheap[er] T-handles are cheap for a reason: they usually make the long handle out of chromoly instead of tool steel. The long end of the Silca t-handles didn't even make it a week in the shop before they started to wear unacceptably. After trying two other sets of "not Beta/PB Swiss" sliding T-handles from 'reputable' sources, I'm leary of the price of the Park ones, versus what you'll be delivered.


I get ya. Not too happy with my Silca hex wrenches too, which I have had for just about a year. They are good only for immediate repairs at the trailhead before a ride, and not for hard core stuff at home. Heck, I have some hex wrenches from over 25 years ago that are better. I just wish I didn't lose some of the important sizes on the old set.


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