# PD-M636 Pedal Bebuild, How to start?



## bvdrax (Feb 16, 2009)

I am trying to rebuild my pd-m636 pedals, and I cannot figure out how to remove the spindle from the body. I don't see any locknut under the inboard dust cap, and the pedal is completely sealed on the outboard side. There is some sort of collar on the inboard side with a set screw. I am sure that collar comes out somehow, but I cannot figure it out.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Ben


----------



## leoh (Dec 8, 2008)

You need this tool:
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/TL407B00-Shimano+Pedal+Tool.aspx

And the procedure is here:
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=84


----------



## bvdrax (Feb 16, 2009)

Thanks for the input, this funny pedal is pretty non-standard and does not have that star nut thing on it.

I found this on my 20 or 50th google search, which really nails it:

skdsl
05-31-04, 02:45 AM
you have to remove the front and rear plates (the black bits) then the outer red bit will come off. The inner red bit is located by a small screw. Once all this is off, there is a spring in the outer end which may fall out, and is a real mongrel to get back in. Remove the press in cap that this spring goes into and then you will need a small (8mm I think) socket and extension to undo the locknut in the end.

oh. and the bearings are really tiny.​
I don't have a set of sockets small enough to fit in there, and I think this tool is what I need http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.c...edal&tc=Axle/Bearing Tools&item_id=SH-TL-PD63, but I don't know if it is worth getting this tool over getting a better pair of pedals. Do all pedals require crazy, specialized, expensive tools to service them?


----------



## ernestrome (Aug 1, 2008)

bvdrax said:


> Do all pedals require crazy, specialized, expensive tools to service them?


No.


----------



## OldTechno (Feb 6, 2017)

Old thread but... You can rebuild these pedals pretty easily if you have a vice to hold ont them and some time (about an hour), along with usual workshop stuff like cleaners, sockets, good grease. Remember that all parts should be cleaned and the bushes in the ends of er adm outer cages are removable and need a good clean and lube. A Pressure can of Brake cleaner is great as it only takes a tiny amount to clean the disassembled pedal.
If you are just regreasing then use a (good quality) pressurised spray grease to shoot into the bearings without undoing more than the outer cage.
If you need new bearings you need 24x 3/32 (grade 25 or better) ball bearings, the special tool is great but if you have to got one then a really thin 11mm socket and a 7mm socket are needed for the outer come and lock nut.

OldTechno special tool used for fitting the inner bearings (full brain surgery to do otherwise) is made from a 75x3.15 mm nail and an 8mm hilti wall plug (rounded one end and 50mm long). Hammer the nail down the plug from the plugs flat end until it sticks out a little. Looks a little like a hotdog on a stick when built.

Clamp the special tool in a vice (vertical) then fit the Spd body (cleaned of all grease and old bearings). With the inner section facing up make sure it just comes up to the bearing space. Chuck in 12 3/32 bearings and arrange them in the bearing race. Shoot in some grease to glue them into place (can use an 8mm tapered end bolt or similar to spin the balls into the right spots. VERY GENTLY take the Spd body off the special tool and gently fit the axle and inner cage into place. Check the end of the axle for stray bearings. If all in place give a very slow spin around to position the balls and check for smoothness. 
Holding it all together turn it over so the axle can be clamped into a vice (use some rubber or soft timber so you don't wreck the axle). Drop another 12, 3/32 balls into the top and arrange them into the race using a scriber or similar. No grease yet! Put the 11mm cone into place and screw down to touch. Check all the balls were captured into place by turning a little as it all goes together. 
Grease up the balls and race space. Give it a spin for feel (same as hubs if it grinds it's too tight, if it rattles its too loose) when it is just off tight put the 7mm lock nut into place and cinch it up. Check for spin remembering these do not wiz around with new grease in. 
When you are happy with the smoothness on the spin fit the return Spring back into the outer space (this is really easy???) and place the end cups onto springs (in the outer frames) and then match slowly into place on the Spd axle. Screw the 2 black plates into place (this is easiest when you keep all the bolts loose until the last one is in place) and rotate the Spd into the normal use range so you can screw the locking screw (inside frame) in, not too tight. Remembering a couple of drops of lube into the Spd action pins etc, then Stick them on your bike and go for some runs.


----------

