# Big fellas and long travel bikes



## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

I'm big and tall: 6'6" 290lbs. I got into mountain biking four years ago when I bought my 2018 Tallboy (XXL obviously!). I love that bike so much. Thing is, I never really paid attention to setting up the suspension because all I wanted to do was ride and have a good time. Basically the shop set up the fork and shock and I kept the shock set to 300psi. 

Over these four years my skill level has grown to the point that I want to venture out to different trails in the hopes of leveling up my skills a bit more. And to do that, I've been considering something in the range of the new Hightower. But now I'm wondering how much a big guy like me would even benefit from having more travel. Would it be noticeable? How much tuning can one really get out of the suspension at our size?

Hope that's enough info to get the conversation going...


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

I'm 'only' 6'2", 190# but I bought a long travel 29er last year (180mm F, 163mm R) and I gotta say I'm totally sold on the idea that bigger guys benefit a bunch from longer travel.

Inasmuch as I don't own a Hightower, I don't know how much travel that bike has, but at your height & weight, if you're not sporting something in the 160+mm travel zone, my guess is you'll love the benefits that even more travel brings. Assuming you like to get your wheels off the ground. 
=sParty


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## MarcusBrody (Apr 1, 2014)

levelseventysix said:


> I'm big and tall: 6'6" 290lbs. I got into mountain biking four years ago when I bought my 2018 Tallboy (XXL obviously!). I love that bike so much. Thing is, I never really paid attention to setting up the suspension because all I wanted to do was ride and have a good time. Basically the shop set up the fork and shock and I kept the shock set to 300psi.
> 
> Over these four years my skill level has grown to the point that I want to venture out to different trails in the hopes of leveling up my skills a bit more. And to do that, I've been considering something in the range of the new Hightower. But now I'm wondering how much a big guy like me would even benefit from having more travel. Would it be noticeable? How much tuning can one really get out of the suspension at our size?
> 
> Hope that's enough info to get the conversation going...


Why wouldn't there be advantages to long travel bikes for big guys? I'd imagine suspension would be at least as important.

I would just make sure that the shock the bike is specced with takes the pressure needed to put you at the right level of sag. Some manufacturers - RAAW being the one that comes to mind- actually spec a different leverage ratio rocker linkage for big guys to keep the shock in it's ideal range.


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

Your suspension will need more attention since it is playing a bigger part in the bike. I'm more 'along' than 'down' but putting a custom coil shock on my bike made a massive difference in improving the ride.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Custom tuning at that weight isn't a could do, its a must do. And if you ride a lot, yearly rebuilds are likely required. You are asking a lot from those seals at 300psi. Custom tunes for big guys is likely some of the best money spent on a bike.


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

You will benefit just as much as anyone else. I have a custom tuned damper from avalanche and it transformed the fork. At your size you will see a huge improvement in feel from a stiffer fork like a 38.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

So a custom tune sounds like an important investment. Where would one get this done. I live in Northern California so any advice would be cool. Would I send my shock or fork off to someone or can any old shop do a custom tune?

Also, not to send this conversation off into a different direction, I'm also considering just upgrading my Tallboy 3 to the Tallboy 4. Same 130 fork but a slight boost in rear travel.


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Are you on a fox 36 or lyrik? Make sure you get a stiffer fork. There are several places online where you can send off the fork damper and shock depending on the brand.

Another thing is to get the longest rear stays you can to balance out the extra long front end.

If your upgrading to a new bike the hightower is a better bet as it comes with both a stiffer fork and longer stays.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

alexbn921 said:


> Are you on a fox 36 or lyrik? Make sure you get a stiffer fork. There are several places online where you can send off the fork damper and shock depending on the brand.
> 
> Another thing is to get the longest rear stays you can to balance out the extra long front end.
> 
> If your upgrading to a new bike the hightower is a better bet as it comes with both a stiffer fork and longer stays.


I'm currently on a fox 34. Like I said, I was never dialed into how suspension should feel so I just rode what the bike came with. I had the fork and shock serviced regularly and the shop always said everything looked fine afterwards.

So am I understanding correctly that I would get a different feel from a stiffer fork? Or, given my size, a stiffer fork hold up better over time?

As for rear stays, I assume chain stay is the same thing? I know the V4 Tallboy comes with adjustable stays. Would that option be sufficient? Also, are you suggesting longer stays if I go with a longer fork? All these layers is what make my head spin!


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Your reach is huge and most bikes rear chain stays are sized for medium. You want the longest chain stays you can find.

I stiffer fork will feel better at your weight. It will also hold up better.


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

With your long arms and legs you can throw your body weight around in ways smaller people can't. Given the recent fashion for 'tucked' rear wheels and short stays, longer stays may well suit you better.
Those long limbs also add to the strain you put on your suspension.
I went with Avalanche Suspension for my custom coil shock. They have done this for a long time and gave great customer service and advice in general.


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## pushinpixels (Jul 4, 2007)

I'm 6'4" 250 lbs. and went from a XXL Tallboy (V2) to an S5 Specialized Enduro. Still riding the same trails (blue and black trail and park riding) but having more fun now. 
The Enduro pedals better and I'm faster in every situation despite being "overbiked" in many situations. I also invested in a Vorsprung tuned suspension. Worth every penny as it's no longer spiky and harsh feeling at speed. If your trails get gnarly, I'd consider a longer travel enduro style bike.


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## Yootah (Jun 30, 2017)

pushinpixels said:


> I'm 6'4" 250 lbs. and went from a XXL Tallboy (V2) to an S5 Specialized Enduro. Still riding the same trails (blue and black trail and park riding) but having more fun now.
> The Enduro pedals better and I'm faster in every situation despite being "overbiked" in many situations. I also invested in a Vorsprung tuned suspension. Worth every penny as it's no longer spiky and harsh feeling at speed. If your trails get gnarly, I'd consider a longer travel enduro style bike.


I'm 6'4" 260 and I just went from a 100m hardtail fat/plus bike to a 150/130mm trail bike. I liked being underbiked, it was fun. I _really _like being overbiked, that's fun too. 

OP, definitely go at least a 36 fork. It really makes a difference in steering control.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

The new Hightower seems like a good option for me. Anyone know much about the Rockshox Super Deluxe Select+ shock they have on there? Good for us bigs?


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

Sparticus said:


> I'm totally sold on the idea that bigger guys benefit a bunch from longer travel.



How, exactly?

I neither agree nor disagree -- but I'm curious on your rationale.


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

mikesee said:


> How, exactly?
> 
> I neither agree nor disagree -- but I'm curious on your rationale.


Mike, I'm mostly talking about leaping -- particularly the landing part.
I'll illustrate by comparing / contrasting my GF Cynde and myself since she's 5'2" and weighs 107# (don't tell her I told you.)
I outweigh Cyn by 80 lbs. (87 lbs if we count the difference in our bike weights, too.)
Whenever the terrain points downward, I gotta be at the front because gravity has less of an effect on her -- I overtake her instantly whenever she leads out.
Meanwhile whenever I'm at the front on descents, she's comparatively off the back. Can't keep up. Thanks again, gravity.
Same thing happens whenever our wheels are off the ground. In the air, my heavier mass lands jumps & drops harder.
She lands like a feather, I land like a bowling ball.
Her little 140F/130R Ibis Mojo 4 handles her weight just fine.
Whereas I found my 160F/140R Guerrilla Gravity Smash bottoming on similar hits.
So last year I made the leap to a 180F/163R bike. Ahhhhh... an inch more travel at each end of the bike -- awesome.
I can go big (well, big for me, ha ha) and not fear feeling it in my ankles whenever I return to earth.
When making the decision to try long travel, I feared the bigger bike might pedal like a waterbed.
Nope.
I'm blown away at how good the geometry and suspension of today's long travel 29ers are.
My long travel bike pedals as well as my mid-travel bike. Hoodathunkit? Today's suspension components are brilliant.
I still love the mid-travel Smash but it's pretty much been relegated to off-season duty because I give up nothing with the bigger bike. Plus I enjoy long-travel's confidence inspiring increased capability. Understatement.
=sParty


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

For the most part short travel bikes are built with lighter parts and the frames are not as stiff. A longer travel bike is intended to be used harder and bigger guys benefit from that increase frame, fork and wheel stiffness.

For example an XC bike can feel like a noodle if you are over 250lb.


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## Yootah (Jun 30, 2017)

Sparticus said:


> In the air, my heavier mass lands jumps & drops harder.


This. Increased spring strength will bring a bigger rider to a halt in the same distance as a lighter one, but doesn't do anything for the greater inertia. Add longer travel to the equation and the vertical deceleration on landing can be gentler.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

levelseventysix said:


> So a custom tune sounds like an important investment. Where would one get this done. I live in Northern California so any advice would be cool. Would I send my shock or fork off to someone or can any old shop do a custom tune?
> 
> Also, not to send this conversation off into a different direction, I'm also considering just upgrading my Tallboy 3 to the Tallboy 4. Same 130 fork but a slight boost in rear travel.


check out Full Flow in Sac. Full Flow Suspension


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

levelseventysix said:


> The new Hightower seems like a good option for me. Anyone know much about the Rockshox Super Deluxe Select+ shock they have on there? Good for us bigs?


Hightower runs 285psi at 260lbs. With Ur weight at 290lbs, if thats geared up, u'll rub ~320psi which is near max with Rockshox but should work. I'd throw a Fox Float X on it.


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

Sparticus said:


> She lands like a feather, I land like a bowling ball.
> Her little 140F/130R Ibis Mojo 4 handles her weight just fine.
> Whereas I found my 160F/140R Guerrilla Gravity Smash bottoming on similar hits.



Are you saying that the *only* way to account for increased mass is increased travel? 

You don't think your suspension could be fine tuned to level the, um, playing field?

By your rationale, lighter riders should all lean toward less travel. A 90# adult wouldn't need more than -- say -- a Moots YBB.


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

mikesee said:


> Are you saying that the *only* way to account for increased mass is increased travel?
> 
> You don't think your suspension could be fine tuned to level the, um, playing field?
> 
> By your rationale, lighter riders should all lean toward less travel. A 90# adult wouldn't need more than -- say -- a Moots YBB.


Well, show me an XC fork designed to take the loads that a 250lb rider can put on it?

(IMO it's not the travel itself, it's the loads they're designed to take)


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

mikesee said:


> Are you saying that the *only* way to account for increased mass is increased travel?


No.*


mikesee said:


> You don't think your suspension could be fine tuned to level the, um, playing field?


I do. I've got what I consider to be some of the finest suspension components made for riders of my ilk.


mikesee said:


> By your rationale, lighter riders should all lean toward less travel. A 90# adult wouldn't need more than -- say -- a Moots YBB.


Can't say. I don't remember back when I blew past 90#. But maybe? Probably not. I suppose it's up to each rider to find out what works best for them. I can tell you that if I still rode my mountain bikes the way I did 15 or 20 years ago, I'd still think 6 or 7 inches of travel was superfluous. But today's more capable bikes have fundamentally changed the way I ride mountain bikes.


dysfunction said:


> IMO it's not the travel itself, it's the loads they're designed to take


...and then there's this ^^^.
=sParty

*Edit: I've spent lots of time & money finding out what I like and what works best for me and the experiment is far from over. Proper suspension travel is but one factor. Proper wheels & tires (not to mention psi) are probably equally important. Body positioning on the bike. Line picking ability, riding style, blah, blah. It all comes together. I'm just saying that for me, at my weight & riding style, long travel has been a plus. I simply have more fun riding my bike. Oh, and I feel safer, more confident & more comfortable riding it, too.


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

Sparticus said:


> No.*
> 
> I do. I've got what I consider to be some of the finest suspension components made for riders of my ilk.
> 
> ...



The sum of what you've written is that you prefer more travel, and you've tried a lot of bikes to arrive at that conclusion. No argument whatsoever.

But to then conclude that what works for you will work for everyone that's of a similar size to you seems to be a big leap, and I don't see facts to support this.

I'm very close to your weight, and I too have ridden a lot of bikes. Do I have fun on 7" travel bikes? You betcha -- right up until I crash when going waaaaaaaaaay faster than I would on a shorter travel bike...


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

mikesee said:


> The sum of what you've written is that you prefer more travel, and you've tried a lot of bikes to arrive at that conclusion. No argument whatsoever.
> 
> But to then conclude that what works for you will work for everyone that's of a similar size to you seems to be a big leap, and I don't see facts to support this.
> 
> I'm very close to your weight, and I too have ridden a lot of bikes. Do I have fun on 7" travel bikes? You betcha -- right up until I crash when going waaaaaaaaaay faster than I would on a shorter travel bike...


What you've said above makes perfect sense, Mike.
Funny cuz I generally get a little disgruntled whenever someone on these forums talks in absolutes. In fact I occasionally call people out for doing so.
So I'm sorry I did that very thing.
I've said before and I'll say again, one of my favorite aspects of cycling is that we each have the ability to design & create our own (unique?) human powered machines that serve our own (unique?) purpose(s). 
The nuances of which can make for quite different machines even if those machines are ridden in quite similar ways &/or on the very same trails, depending on individual priorities & preferences.
Take your personal machines, for example. I always enjoy your detailed posts on these, including excellent photos, wherein you delineate your motivations, the machines' construction, purpose and execution.
Always way cool -- thanks for this. Helps me understand your personal priorities even though I may not share them. FWIW I'm still scratching my head about getting a steering damper because of your comments about them.
Anyway I'll give more thought to not shoving my personal priorities down other peoples' throats whenever I post here on MTBR. 
=sParty

P.S. I don't ride as fast as I used to.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

The geometry is very important and usually takes quite a bit of tweaking to get it as close to right as you can. Longer, stiffer (36mm or 38mm stanchions) forks, because they are longer and need to be stiffer flex wise to support your weight. 34mm forks are going to flex too much going into a turn at speed. Longer because they raise the ground to grip height more. More spacers on under your stem and / or riser handlebars to get your saddle and handlebars level. Possibly a longer stem to get the reach right. The air shocks will need to at the upper end of their pressure range, but as some have said, the Float X and Float X2 (which is what I have) don't need to be pumped to the very top of the range as would a FOX DPS. The seals do start to leak and will need regular servicing. Coils are an option, but you either love them or hate them. I like my Hightower V1 which I slacked to 64 degrees and is a 160 FOX 36 / 135 FOX Float X2. Yes I wish the chainstay was longer, but there are very few options in the XXL market. BTW, the Hightower V2's don't fit very many coils. The Transition Sentinel has some of the best XXL geo out there, and you can use just about any coil shock on it. Longer chainstay too! Specialized stumpy S6 is one to consider as well. 
I'm happy with my mid-travel bike in all conditions.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

So I went ahead and bought the Hightower 3. My local bike shop says they do shock tunes so I'll be doing that as soon as I can.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

levelseventysix said:


> So I went ahead and bought the Hightower 3. My local bike shop says they do shock tunes so I'll be doing that as soon as I can.


What shock did you get on it?


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Tall BMX'r said:


> What shock did you get on it?


The build I got came with the Rockshox Super Deluxe Select+. I’ll roll with that for now to see how things go.

Any thoughts on that shock compared to the Super Deluxe Ultimate or Fox X?


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## TwiceHorn (Jun 18, 2014)

Yootah said:


> OP, definitely go at least a 36 fork. It really makes a difference in steering control.


This likely can't be said enough. As I am not a jumper, or very extreme rider, I didn't think fork stiffness would be a big issue for me. But I am a 200+/- rider, and a Recon with its 32mm stanchions made steering a bit more of an adventure than it needed to be. A Fox 34 fixed that right up.

So, even if you don't think you're the kind of rider that really needs a stiff fork, at 200+ you probably are.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

levelseventysix said:


> The build I got came with the Rockshox Super Deluxe Select+. I’ll roll with that for now to see how things go.
> 
> Any thoughts on that shock compared to the Super Deluxe Ultimate or Fox X?


I think they are very comparable. I haven't used the Super Deluxe, but I seen reviews and it spec pretty evenly with the Float X. The X2 (which I have) has a confusing amount of adjustments.


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## rod9301 (Oct 30, 2004)

levelseventysix said:


> I'm big and tall: 6'6" 290lbs. I got into mountain biking four years ago when I bought my 2018 Tallboy (XXL obviously!). I love that bike so much. Thing is, I never really paid attention to setting up the suspension because all I wanted to do was ride and have a good time. Basically the shop set up the fork and shock and I kept the shock set to 300psi.
> 
> Over these four years my skill level has grown to the point that I want to venture out to different trails in the hopes of leveling up my skills a bit more. And to do that, I've been considering something in the range of the new Hightower. But now I'm wondering how much a big guy like me would even benefit from having more travel. Would it be noticeable? How much tuning can one really get out of the suspension at our size?
> 
> Hope that's enough info to get the conversation going...


You'll benefit a lot, you'll never go back to anything under 170mm

Sent from my moto g 5G using Tapatalk


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

rod9301 said:


> You'll benefit a lot, you'll never go back to anything under 170mm
> 
> Sent from my moto g 5G using Tapatalk


Well 170mm will have to wait as I went ahead and bought the Hightower V3.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

levelseventysix said:


> Well 170mm will have to wait as I went ahead and bought the Hightower V3.


Is your seat and grip height level with each other?


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Tall BMX'r said:


> Is your seat and grip height level with each other?


When fully extended it isn't. Should those two be level? I can't even imagine having it level in that position.


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

levelseventysix said:


> When fully extended it isn't. Should those two be level? I can't even imagine having it level in that position.


They should not be. I ran a 4 inch drop on my xxl tallboy. I would also run it in the high settings with the long chain stays.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

I have a riser / angled up stem with a 35mm riser bar. It's perfect for me. If I rode more XC I'd want it lower. But I mostly ride steeps with drops.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Tall BMX'r said:


> I have a riser / angled up stem with a 35mm riser bar. It's perfect for me. If I rode more XC I'd want it lower. But I mostly ride steeps with drops.


Makes sense. So far most of my riding involves lots of climbing, usually long boring fire road. So far my setup has worked but with the new bike I have been wondering about any tweaks I could make. I haven't had a chance to ride it yet but that'll change this weekend. Obviously once I get some miles in I'll have a feel for what works and what needs adjusted.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

alexbn921 said:


> They should not be. I ran a 4 inch drop on my xxl tallboy. I would also run it in the high settings with the long chain stays.


Definitely gonna be running it in the high position!


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## Bassmantweed (Nov 10, 2019)

pushinpixels said:


> I'm 6'4" 250 lbs. and went from a XXL Tallboy (V2) to an S5 Specialized Enduro. Still riding the same trails (blue and black trail and park riding) but having more fun now.
> The Enduro pedals better and I'm faster in every situation despite being "overbiked" in many situations. I also invested in a Vorsprung tuned suspension. Worth every penny as it's no longer spiky and harsh feeling at speed. If your trails get gnarly, I'd consider a longer travel enduro style bike.



Ain’t this the truth. I am 6’5” down to 225 from 250. 

I started on a 2019 stumpjumper xl @150 mm
Bought a 2022 stumpy S6 @140 which I never was Able to bond with
i then Bought a 2022 specialized enduro S5 at 170 and it’s all ride now. In CT the trails are getting so worn that there are huge roots and rocks everywhere. I love how the enduro handles them and I am fine with how it climbs. Weighs in about 4 lbs more than my S6 stumpy and worth every ounce.
I could be totally wrong but I think the bigger chambers/ larger oil reserves required for longer travel help.


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## Brules (Jul 10, 2021)

levelseventysix said:


> The build I got came with the Rockshox Super Deluxe Select+. I’ll roll with that for now to see how things go.
> 
> Any thoughts on that shock compared to the Super Deluxe Ultimate or Fox X?


Take that RS S+ off and sell it immediately. You’re going to have issues with it and your weight. Not sure if RS has changed but their max PSI used to be 300lbs. Get a Float X, no tune needed and you can ride it at around 10-15lbs of your body weight and it works amazing. I have a HT v2 with a cascade link, fox 36 160 and a float X and it’s perfect. I weigh 285-290.

I also bought a DH bike with 200/200 as I’ve found I love tech, chunk DH and after a recent trip to AngelFire NM I quickly realized I’ll beat the crap out of my HT there at my weight. So I snagged a full DH for when I go to lift DH parks and shuttle parks in Arkansas/Missouri (there’s at least 3 within 4 hours of me and Rocky’s are 8-10 hours away).

For the DH Bike I got a DHX2 and will have Fox do a custom heavy tune on it as the Demo 8 I got is very linear.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Brules said:


> Take that RS S+ off and sell it immediately. You’re going to have issues with it and your weight. Not sure if RS has changed but their max PSI used to be 300lbs. Get a Float X, no tune needed and you can ride it at around 10-15lbs of your body weight and it works amazing.


Thanks for the insight! Though if I'm not mistaken, the RS S+ has a max PSI of 325. No doubt I'm rubbing up against the max at the moment. 

Regarding the Float X, how do I determine if it will fit my bike or not? I'm open to looking into other suspension options but I should know if something will even fit.


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## Brules (Jul 10, 2021)

I think you’ll be right up against the limit of the RS as they aren’t supper efficient. But try it first and see. If you bottom out you can always swap it later.

Just look up your bike and see what size the shock is and see if they make one same size. My v2 Hightower is a 210x55 I think.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

So far I've put in two rides on one of the local trails I ride the most just to get a baseline feel for the bike compared to my Tallboy 3. I can obviously tell the difference when it comes travel. I am wondering, however, how volume spacers in either fork or shock would impact the ride. Right now I'm close to max PSI in the fork and shock. Not bottoming out in either just yet. 

Basically, what exactly do spacers do and do big guys benefit from them in any way? I know this is probably MTB 101 but I would like some input from fellow clydes.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

levelseventysix said:


> So far I've put in two rides on one of the local trails I ride the most just to get a baseline feel for the bike compared to my Tallboy 3. I can obviously tell the difference when it comes travel. I am wondering, however, how volume spacers in either fork or shock would impact the ride. Right now I'm close to max PSI in the fork and shock. Not bottoming out in either just yet.
> 
> Basically, what exactly do spacers do and do big guys benefit from them in any way? I know this is probably MTB 101 but I would like some input from fellow clydes.


The spacers reduce the volume / amount of air in the spring. The more spacers you add, the quicker the spring rate will ramp up. It's partially a person preference adjustment and a necessity in some cases. I personally like my FOX 36 fork with 4 volume tokens. It allows me to run my fork pressure a little lower (80 psi), less rebound (5 clicks from closed), and yet on bigger hits it will ramp up quickly and still keep me higher in my travel. No where near bottoming out. With less tokens (I would always leave at least one in) you will go through more travel and need to run a little higher pressure with even slower rebound / dampening ( maybe 2 to 3 clicks from closed). I've played around with this a lot and felt like I was kind of going over the bars on bigger drops and forks just about bottomed out. Again, personal preference. On the shock, similar approach except I have a FOX Float X2 which is a different animal. With the shock, you have to keep enough pressure in it so you don't run too much sag. If you are into your travel 50% just sitting there then you have a 50% sag setting. You will encounter a lot of pedal strikes riding with 50% sag. You want to run more like 30% sag. This will dictate what your shock psi needs to be. More tokens with make your shock ramp up quickly and prevent it from bottoming out. Remember, with more psi you need slower rebound so you don't end up with a bucking bronco.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Tall BMX'r said:


> The spacers reduce the volume / amount of air in the spring. The more spacers you add, the quicker the spring rate will ramp up. It's partially a person preference adjustment and a necessity in some cases. I personally like my FOX 36 fork with 4 volume tokens. It allows me to run my fork pressure a little lower (80 psi), less rebound (5 clicks from closed), and yet on bigger hits it will ramp up quickly and still keep me higher in my travel. No where near bottoming out. With less tokens (I would always leave at least one in) you will go through more travel and need to run a little higher pressure with even slower rebound / dampening ( maybe 2 to 3 clicks from closed). I've played around with this a lot and felt like I was kind of going over the bars on bigger drops and forks just about bottomed out. Again, personal preference. On the shock, similar approach except I have a FOX Float X2 which is a different animal. With the shock, you have to keep enough pressure in it so you don't run too much sag. If you are into your travel 50% just sitting there then you have a 50% sag setting. You will encounter a lot of pedal strikes riding with 50% sag. You want to run more like 30% sag. This will dictate what your shock psi needs to be. More tokens with make your shock ramp up quickly and prevent it from bottoming out. Remember, with more psi you need slower rebound so you don't end up with a bucking bronco.


Maybe I'll invest in tokens for the fork and shock to play around with to see if I land on something I like.


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

My rule with spaces is to use the minimum that you can get away with. The more aggressive you are the more spacers you will need.
First set your sag to an area you like and see how much travel you are using.
If you use all the travel add spacers and reduce air a couple psi
If you don't use all the travel remove spacers and add air

Play with sag as more sag will be plusher, but give you less to push against. 

A vorsprung luftkappe will transform the small bump compliance and give a more coil like feel.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Thanks @alexbn921 
I'm not an aggressive rider looking to do jumps or go off any drops. Mostly I'm after a balanced ride with a planted feel. The vorpsrung sounds intriguing. Is this something I have to send my shock off for or is it a DIY thing I would buy?
Also, anyone here have an opinion about using a Shockwiz? Would that benefit me with the current shock I have on the HT3 (Rockshox Super Deluxe Select+)?


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

It's DIY if you get the tool. Basically the same as servicing the air spring, which you should do anyway, even on a new fork.
I use and share my shockwiz with 8-10 other guys and its a great tool if you set it up right. Bad setup = bad data.

Sometimes a full spacer is too big of a change. I have a half spacer I cut for fine tuning too.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

alexbn921 said:


> I use and share my shockwiz with 8-10 other guys and its a great tool if you set it up right. Bad setup = bad data.


What would you call a bad set up? Would I be fine starting with the Fox/Rockshox recommended settings as a baseline if I were to use a shockwiz? I'm particularly interested in the SW for what it could possibly teach me about my suspension vs just sending it off to be tuned where perhaps I won't have as much of an understanding of what's better and why. Hope that makes sense.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

levelseventysix said:


> What would you call a bad set up? Would I be fine starting with the Fox/Rockshox recommended settings as a baseline if I were to use a shockwiz? I'm particularly interested in the SW for what it could possibly teach me about my suspension vs just sending it off to be tuned where perhaps I won't have as much of an understanding of what's better and why. Hope that makes sense.


I know what I like, so even if it sent it out for a factory tune I'd probably still tweak it to my liking. This comes back to why we are on the Clydes / Tall Odd dudes forum. When you are at the top range of an air or coil spring, it's never going to be really good.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Tall BMX'r said:


> I know what I like, so even if it sent it out for a factory tune I'd probably still tweak it to my liking. This comes back to why we are on the Clydes / Tall Odd dudes forum. When you are at the top range of an air or coil spring, it's never going to be really good.


So are you suggesting I keep things in perspective regarding suspension set up? Is it a matter of not great, but mostly good enough for us bigs? If so, this makes sense in theory, but how will I know when I've reached "good enough"?


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

levelseventysix said:


> So are you suggesting I keep things in perspective regarding suspension set up? Is it a matter of not great, but mostly good enough for us bigs? If so, this makes sense in theory, but how will I know when I've reached "good enough"?


When you quit overthinking it and just ride. I no longer mess with my suspension. It works well the way it is setup for me and my style of riding. I jump, but no big jumps. I ride rocky and steep, but not much XC. Climb, bomb down. Repeat.


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

I just go spend a day or so bracketing my suspension. It pays off in spades. Including helping learn what's good, and what just is not.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

I've had my forks for a few years now. It probably took me a good 6 months of messing with the fork and front tire pressure. The two work together as your front suspension. Initially I was trying to improve my small bump compliance and running my front tire pressure lower and my fork pressure higher with one token. Low pressure front tire led me into some bad crashes. And after hearing these 140 lbs pro downhill women racers were running 22 to 25 psi in there front tires I decided I shouldn't be running 18 psi. I run 22 psi now. I lowered my fork pressure and added tokens and it got more and more to my liking. But, there was a change in my position on the bike that made the biggest improvement. The long front triangles on the XXL frame forces you to weight the fork more than someone on a medium frame. It's the problem with not changing the chainstay proportionally to the frame size and rider. And it's a major problem with Tall riders. If they made the chainstay proportionally longer, but they would have to completely redesign the suspension to handle the increased level arm. They don't want to do that. The V3 with the little rear axle 1/4" 5mm adjustment is a sale smoke and mirrors. It needs to be more like 40mm longer. By putting longer forks 160mm and put riser bars that rake back a little more, moved me back and more centered on the bike. It took a lot of hand pressure off the handlebars and forks. I could feel the rear shock working. The bike corners better, takes drops better, and I'm more comfortable riding it.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Tall BMX'r said:


> By putting longer forks 160mm and put riser bars that rake back a little more, moved me back and more centered on the bike. It took a lot of hand pressure off the handlebars and forks. I could feel the rear shock working. The bike corners better, takes drops better, and I'm more comfortable riding it.


I think I could certainly benefit from being more centered on the bike. After a descent over some rocky/rooty sections I could tell that I was putting a lot of pressure on the handlebars.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

Here is a picture of me riding the other day. I had just come down a fairly steep hill with some rocks and fun little jumps. A friend was taking pictures of the group. You can see that whenever I ride down anything semi-steep or technical I'm always standing with my seat post dropped. It helps me move my weight fore and aft as needed. Also even standing, the higher handlebars keep me in a comfortable neutral position.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Tall BMX'r said:


> Here is a picture of me riding the other day. I had just come down a fairly steep hill with some rocks and fun little jumps. A friend was taking pictures of the group. You can see that whenever I ride down anything semi-steep or technical I'm always standing with my seat post dropped. It helps me move my weight fore and aft as needed. Also even standing, the higher handlebars keep me in a comfortable neutral position.
> 
> View attachment 1998172


What's the rise on your bar? I'm at 35mm rise on both bikes.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

35mm, but I use a 60mm stem with a 20 degree up angle. This raises the handlebars and the 60mm adjusts for the lost reach. As the handlebars come up, they are moving back at what ever angle your head tube is (probably 64ish degrees). So the 60mm move the bars back forward, putting your reach kind of back where it was. I don't notice any lack of steering control being 35mm longer than the short 35mm stock length stem.
This one is for 31.8mm handlebar dia. only.








Ritchey Comp 4-Axis Stem (Matte Black) (31.8mm) (60mm) (30°)


Ritchey Comp 4-Axis Stem Description: Ritchey's Comp 4-Axis Stem has an easily adjustable system that continues to outperform the competition.... 31035317043




www.performancebike.com





The one I have is for both 31.8 and 35mm bars, but it seems to be not available at the moment? I flipped it upside down. It more like a gravel bike stem I guess but I works great.


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## Sasquatch1413 (Nov 6, 2008)

levelseventysix said:


> I'm big and tall: 6'6" 290lbs. I got into mountain biking four years ago when I bought my 2018 Tallboy (XXL obviously!). I love that bike so much. Thing is, I never really paid attention to setting up the suspension because all I wanted to do was ride and have a good time. Basically the shop set up the fork and shock and I kept the shock set to 300psi.
> 
> Over these four years my skill level has grown to the point that I want to venture out to different trails in the hopes of leveling up my skills a bit more. And to do that, I've been considering something in the range of the new Hightower. But now I'm wondering how much a big guy like me would even benefit from having more travel. Would it be noticeable? How much tuning can one really get out of the suspension at our size?
> 
> Hope that's enough info to get the conversation going...


At 330 lbs here, I have to be careful about leverage ratios on frames, slightly surprised you can get enough spring rate at 290 on SC. May look and see if the high tower has a same or better leverage ratio before jumping to it.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Sasquatch1413 said:


> At 330 lbs here, I have to be careful about leverage ratios on frames, slightly surprised you can get enough spring rate at 290 on SC. May look and see if the high tower has a same or better leverage ratio before jumping to it.


To be honest, I have no real knowledge when it comes to leverage ratios and spring rate. Could you school me a bit on what those two things are and how rider weight impacts/impedes them? This is sort of my goal here. To learn more about suspension. 

I was a bit heavier (320) when I bought my Tallboy back in 2018. Then as now I'm just trying to have fun. But if learning more about the ins and outs of bike physics adds to that, even better!


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Can any talk folks post a side profile if their bike with the dropper at full extension? At full height I'm nearly riding over the rear axle. With a 36" inseam I'm not sure how to remedy this other than moving my saddle forward. Should I even worry about it?


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## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

Is that on level ground?? Slamming your seat forward and not over forking the bike are about all you can do.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

jeremy3220 said:


> Is that on level ground?? Slamming your seat forward and not over forking the bike are about all you can do.


Not quite level ground. 
Seat forward and over forking. Are those two separate things or one the result of the other. Not quite sure what you mean. Sorry.


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## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

levelseventysix said:


> Not quite level ground.
> Seat forward and over forking. Are those two separate things or one the result of the other. Not quite sure what you mean. Sorry.


Separate things. 
Increasing fork travel makes the STA even slacker. 

Sliding the saddle forward obviously helps shift your weight forward.


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## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

XXL Megatower with the saddle slammed forward.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

jeremy3220 said:


> Separate things.
> Increasing fork travel makes the STA even slacker.
> 
> Sliding the saddle forward obviously helps shift your weight forward.





jeremy3220 said:


> View attachment 1998572
> 
> XXL Megatower with the saddle slammed forward.


Thanks. I'll make some adjustments to my saddle.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

Seat all the way forward. When I climb steeps the nose of the seat is right in my butt, or I'm standing and climbing. 200mm KS LEV dropper.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

BTW, I love my 165mm width Bontrager Commuter Comp Bike Seat. It's a little wider than the stock saddle by about 20mm. No problems getting in the way when it's dropped on the downhills. 








Bontrager Commuter Comp Bike Saddle | REI Co-op


Offering the comfort of a full cutout design, the durable, weather-resistant Bontrager Commuter Comp bike saddle is designed specifically for commuters and fitness riders.




www.rei.com


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Tall BMX'r said:


> Seat all the way forward. When I climb steeps the nose of the seat is right in my butt, or I'm standing and climbing. 200mm KS LEV dropper.
> View attachment 1998594


What length cranks?


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

jeremy3220 said:


> View attachment 1998572
> 
> XXL Megatower with the saddle slammed forward.


What length cranks?


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

175mm cranks. I also put a 26 tooth Wolf Tooth chainring with 3mm offset on. Climbing is way easier. It's almost too low I also have a SRAM 28 tooth non-eagle 3mm steel chainring was is a big improvement in climbing as well. Plus the 28t SRAM is only about $24. Amazon.com : SRAM Unisex's X-Sync 28T Direct Mount 3mm Offset Steel 3.5mm 11 Speed Chainring, Black : Sports & Outdoors It says 11 speed, but it works on 12 speed narrow-wide setups.
With the 26 tooth, I tend to ride and climb in second gear mostly. When it gets long and steeper, I have a granny gear. 





Race Face 3 Bolt Direct Mount Chainring | Jenson USA







www.jensonusa.com


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## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

levelseventysix said:


> What length cranks?


170mm


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

levelseventysix said:


> Can any talk folks post a side profile if their bike with the dropper at full extension? At full height I'm nearly riding over the rear axle. With a 36" inseam I'm not sure how to remedy this other than moving my saddle forward. Should I even worry about it?


Practice your wheelies! I used to have a Scott Genius that looked like that on me. I had to get so far over the front to keep the nose down on steep climbs it was ridiculous. Keep the suspension on the firmer side, keep any flip chips on the higher setting, seat forward, possibly a slightly longer stem as well? 
Ultimately, look for a bike that has a more upright seat tube angle. Slack seat tubes do us tall people no favors.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Back for a question:
My Tallboy has Shimano M8020 brakes (4-piston). But my new Hightower has Code RS. Is it just me, or do SRAM brakes under perform? (Didn't want to say suck)

100 miles in and they just don't inspire a lot of confidence. I've had to take the bike back to the shop a few times because the front brakes simply didn't work. On today's ride they were better but still sketchy. Others share this feeling about Code brakes?


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Trickstuff pads give them a lot more power without losing any modulation. Stock I find Sram brakes underwhelming.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

alexbn921 said:


> Trickstuff pads make them give them a lot more power without losing any modulation. Stock I find Sram brakes underwhelming.


In my search since my question I'm seeing others mention those pads as well. Is it the Power 840 pads you have or would you recommend something else?


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## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

levelseventysix said:


> Back for a question:
> My Tallboy has Shimano M8020 brakes (4-piston). But my new Hightower has Code RS. Is it just me, or do SRAM brakes under perform? (Didn't want to say suck)
> 
> 100 miles in and they just don't inspire a lot of confidence. I've had to take the bike back to the shop a few times because the front brakes simply didn't work. On today's ride they were better but still sketchy. Others share this feeling about Code brakes?


No, I'm replacing XT 8120's on my Tallboy with Code RSC's. The Codes have more power.









The best MTB disc brake you can buy


Disc brakes now have it harder than ever before: we’re riding faster, tires bite harder, and the trails we ride are getting tougher. To go fast, we need to be able to go slow, so which disc brake is best? Riding fast is one of the best feelings: we argue over KOM’s in the pub […]




enduro-mtb.com


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

levelseventysix said:


> In my search since my question I'm seeing others mention those pads as well. Is it the Power 840 pads you have or would you recommend something else?


Yes the power pads. I believe the 840 are the right ones for your brakes.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

jeremy3220 said:


> No, I'm replacing XT 8120's on my Tallboy with Code RSC's. The Codes have more power.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm not so much doubting their power, but rather their reliability. I haven't gotten a single consistent ride out of them. Outside of the two rides where the front brakes completely stopped working, they just haven't worked consistently for an entire ride. Some times they'll have amazing bite, but a few minutes later they squeal like a pig and barely bite at all.


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## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

levelseventysix said:


> I'm not so much doubting their power, but rather their reliability. I haven't gotten a single consistent ride out of them. Outside of the two rides where the front brakes completely stopped working, they just haven't worked consistently for an entire ride. Some times they'll have amazing bite, but a few minutes later they squeal like a pig and barely bite at all.


Haven't had that issue. I'm replacing the XTs because the front caliper is leaking.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

jeremy3220 said:


> Haven't had that issue. I'm replacing the XTs because the front caliper is leaking.


Not cool! No solution is perfect, but a surefire way for a brand to lose a customer is for their product to malfunction in critical ways. Hope you have better luck with your replacements.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

alexbn921 said:


> Yes the power pads. I believe the 840 are the right ones for your brakes.


Any idea where I can buy these pads? I can only find online shops overseas. Any places in the US that sell them?


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

Sometimes the brakes aren't bled enough (properly) or the caliper bolts are not tight enough. Or just dust will get them squealing. No problems with my Sram R's. Stop my 230 lbs fine, even on the steeps.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Also, I failed to mention that I'm running a 203mm rotor upfront.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Tall BMX'r said:


> Sometimes the brakes aren't bled enough (properly) or the caliper bolts are not tight enough. Or just dust will get them squealing. No problems with my Sram R's. Stop my 230 lbs fine, even on the steeps.


Bleeding brakes is really a skill I need to pick up. The last go-round the bike shop did a full bleed on them passing the fluid back and forth through the line several times to remove any excess air. That improved their performance slightly but not all together. It is fairly dusty right now here in California.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

Another thing that effects the braking is more suspension. The Hightower has more travel specially in the fork and it's more slack than your older Tallboy. When you grab the brakes you have to go through more travel before it actually starts slowing you and your frame down. It's a slight delay and your bike gets shorter lengthwise in the process. You will get used to it.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Tall BMX'r said:


> Another thing that effects the braking is more suspension. The Hightower has more travel specially in the fork and it's more slack than your older Tallboy. When you grab the brakes you have to go through more travel before it actually starts slowing you and your frame down. It's a slight delay and your bike gets shorter lengthwise in the process. You will get used to it.


Indeed. I'm going through the process of learning the dynamics of riding the bike. Definitely a totally different experience vs my Tallboy.


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

levelseventysix said:


> Any idea where I can buy these pads? I can only find online shops overseas. Any places in the US that sell them?


Europe only. I usually get 5-10 guys to order at the same time to split shipping. My last order was 40 pads. 10 just for me.


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## Brules (Jul 10, 2021)

If they aren’t consistent- I’d suspect they aren’t bled properly.

I run RSCs on my Hightower and my Demo 8 and with bit rotors (200mm) and good pads I’ve yet to find them lacking.

Rode my Hightower at Angel Fire in June (I’m 295 kitted) and on some gnarly tech trails with 45-60 degree down hill angles I never found myself doubting my brakes. Now - I did doubt my sanity a few times lol!!!!!

I did eat a set of brakes though lol. And probably rotors:


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

Brules said:


> If they aren’t consistent- I’d suspect they aren’t bled properly.
> 
> I run RSCs on my Hightower and my Demo 8 and with bit rotors (200mm) and good pads I’ve yet to find them lacking.
> 
> ...


I have those same rotors. By the pretty rainbow colors on the stainless steel I would say yours looks pretty well seasoned


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Brules said:


> If they aren’t consistent- I’d suspect they aren’t bled properly.
> 
> I run RSCs on my Hightower and my Demo 8 and with bit rotors (200mm) and good pads I’ve yet to find them lacking.


Just got back from my morning ride at the usual spot and the brakes felt better today. I'll give them some time to see if I take to them and vice versa. 
Do you run 200mm rotors on the rear too? I may consider that.


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

Tall BMX'r said:


> Seat all the way forward. When I climb steeps the nose of the seat is right in my butt, or I'm standing and climbing. 200mm KS LEV dropper.
> View attachment 1998594


That bike looks way too small. 
Seat angle is far too slack for your height. 
With the over short rear end and seat position that looks like the climbing balance will be way off the back. 

Look at modern bike geometry like a nicolai or Pole. 

The seat tube is steep so a tall rider is central. 

Balanced stays mean they climb so well.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

CaveGiant said:


> That bike looks way too small.
> Seat angle is far too slack for your height.
> With the over short rear end and seat position that looks like the climbing balance will be way off the back.
> 
> ...


I know, but it will have to do for now. Two kiddos in college and we a scraping by to pay for it.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

levelseventysix said:


> Just got back from my morning ride at the usual spot and the brakes felt better today. I'll give them some time to see if I take to them and vice versa.
> Do you run 200mm rotors on the rear too? I may consider that.


Yes. 203's actually front and back. I had to add a washer to get them lined up right top to bottom.


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

Tall BMX'r said:


> I know, but it will have to do for now. Two kiddos in college and we a scraping by to pay for it.


You got a bike like that in college! 
I was on a no brand hardtail with suntour forks. It was smaller =)


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

CaveGiant said:


> You got a bike like that in college!
> I was on a no brand hardtail with suntour forks. It was smaller =)


Even though both my kids received decent scholarship money it's the housing that's insane. Tuition $30k Housing $20k × 2 kids.


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## Brules (Jul 10, 2021)

Never saw if you said if you properly bedded your brakes in? That will make a big difference as well.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Brules said:


> Never saw if you said if you properly bedded your brakes in? That will make a big difference as well.


To the best of my abilities I think I did.


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## Ih8Hondas (5 mo ago)

Tall BMX'r said:


> Even though both my kids received decent scholarship money it's the housing that's insane. Tuition $30k Housing $20k × 2 kids.


Why are you paying for it though? Kids have to enter the real world at some point. College is a good time to start.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

I'm 340 with Zero braking problems....Current Bikes I Run Shimano M8120's on my Orbea Rise/Rallon, Magura MT7's on my Trek Rail, and Sram G2 RSC's on my Transition Spur. Never had any issues on my Shimano's....lever bleed maybe once a season, Magura'a need more maintenance....2 on trail sudden failures once on the front, once on back, bleeding is a PIA. I run 220mm rotors up front on all but the Spur, 203's on rear of Rail/Rallon, 220 on Rear of my Rise. Spur Is 203/180. Building a Deviate Claymore w/ frame due in October w/ SLX 7120's. I had them sitting in the parts bin unused. I was gonna buy another set of 8120's until I found out the calipers are exactly the same as SLX....just have a basic finish compared to XT's. Only lever differences are no dimples on lever arm for grip, and no free stroke adjustment screw. Rotors I run Magura MDRP's 220/203 but recently tried SRAM HS2 220's on my Rise, Magura Storm HC's on my Spur.


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

Ih8Hondas said:


> Why are you paying for it though? Kids have to enter the real world at some point. College is a good time to start.


Yeah, add a ton of stress to them and make it even harder. Who cares what grades they could have got. Mountain biking is more important!


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

What saddles are some of you using? The HT came with a WTB Silverado Crormoly. My Tallboy has an Ergon SM Pro but one of the rails is starting to bend and creak. Comfort is subjective so I'm mostly asking about durability. What type rails have you all found to work best?


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

levelseventysix said:


> What saddles are some of you using? The HT came with a WTB Silverado Crormoly. My Tallboy has an Ergon SM Pro but one of the rails is starting to bend and creak. Comfort is subjective so I'm mostly asking about durability. What type rails have you all found to work best?


I run specialized power saddles....as I have saddle pain issues and can ride 8hrs on them without issue. Unfortunately the ones with plastic shells i've cracked the shell on giant hits where my big @ss slams into it on a big compressions. I tried their Power Pro Elaston that has a carbon shell and it has more flex and hasn't cracked. It does have a thin plastic frame trim that cracked but has zero effect on performance. It's the only saddle I'll ever run. I've spent thousands trying other brands and nothing is as comfortable. It can live with the flaws. Unfortunately the Power Pro is $275. I've bent Rails on a bunch of other brands, never a Specialized. Any saddle shell I've cracked was replaced under warranty so it never bothered me much. I only run the pro on one of my 4 bikes. The others are 2 experts and one Comp mimc. I've only cracked them at my current weight, I don't remember cracking them at 290.


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## Ih8Hondas (5 mo ago)

CaveGiant said:


> Yeah, add a ton of stress to them and make it even harder. Who cares what grades they could have got. Mountain biking is more important!


Paying for living expenses was never the difficult part of college. A simple, braindead part time job and splitting costs between roommates covered that and then some. That part was easy.

School itself is the hard part.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

Ih8Hondas said:


> Paying for living expenses was never the difficult part of college. A simple, braindead part time job and splitting costs between roommates covered that and then some. That part was easy.
> 
> School itself is the hard part.


My wife and I who never had the opportunity to go to a 4 year college want our kids to have that experience and not be in crazy debt when they graduate. They are both in engineering with straight A's and both have jobs on campus. Neither ride mountain bikes. My wife and I are both avid mtbr's, these kids just don't get it!


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

Living expenses have gone way up since I was in university. Like way, way, way up.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

dysfunction said:


> Living expenses have gone way up since I was in university. Like way, way, way up.


$1,500./m for a room on campus. $1,700./m share a room off campus. NorCal. Next year they will both be off campus. Go Bears and Banana Slugs!


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Sorry to break up the convo about the travails of skyrocketing college expenses, but today's ride saw a better performance from the brakes. Granted, my local trail doesn't get very steep so I'll have to test them out somewhere this weekend.


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## Brules (Jul 10, 2021)

I went back and read your post about it being super dusty in CA - I know that the fine talcum like dust can def get on brakes and make them less effective. The MTX ceramics are susceptible to it for sure.

What break pads do you have? Stock? May try some cintered pads if you continue to have issues.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Brules said:


> I went back and read your post about it being super dusty in CA - I know that the fine talcum like dust can def get on brakes and make them less effective. The MTX ceramics are susceptible to it for sure.
> 
> What break pads do you have? Stock? May try some cintered pads if you continue to have issues.


The pads are stock. If needed I'll definitely be looking into trying different pads.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

levelseventysix said:


> The pads are stock. If needed I'll definitely be looking into trying different pads.


If running Sram/Shimano pads....metallic sintered only. I have just been trying MTX gold pads and have liked their performance. I ride in the same dry & dusty Norcal.


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## Brules (Jul 10, 2021)

Supposedly the MTX reds are quieter than golds but I’ve also seen some ppl have issues with ceramics and fine talc like dust. I put golds on my DH bike with Code RSCs.

Anyone have a good suggestion for a good cintered pad for my HTv2 with Code RSCs?

To the OP - have you adjusted your brake levers etc on the RSCs? There’s some good YT vids showing how to adjust the engagement etc. I felt like they were squishy till I adjusted mine. Might check into that as well.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Brules said:


> To the OP - have you adjusted your brake levers etc on the RSCs? There’s some good YT vids showing how to adjust the engagement etc. I felt like they were squishy till I adjusted mine. Might check into that as well.


I haven't made any adjustments yet. My brakes are the RS, not RSC. Nonetheless, I'll check out some videos to see what available tweaks might help.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Brules said:


> Supposedly the MTX reds are quieter than golds but I’ve also seen some ppl have issues with ceramics and fine talc like dust. I put golds on my DH bike with Code RSCs.
> 
> Anyone have a good suggestion for a good cintered pad for my HTv2 with Code RSCs?
> 
> To the OP - have you adjusted your brake levers etc on the RSCs? There’s some good YT vids showing how to adjust the engagement etc. I felt like they were squishy till I adjusted mine. Might check into that as well.


I haven't had any noise issues with the Golds on my Rise but I do find brake dust on my Speed sensor magnet that I have to periodically clean...don't remember seeing much dust on the magnet when I had the stock XT finned pads.....but I may just not have noticed


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

This is all helpful info but what would be even more useful would be links to some of brake pads you all have purchased and liked. Preferably something I can easily buy here in the states (Amazon, ebay, etc.). From a cursory search, there's a lot to choose from. So being able to narrow down my choices would be cool.


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

I'm running golds, I live in Arizona. They squawk when cold. That's it.


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## Brules (Jul 10, 2021)

Here’s the link to MTX:






Home - MTX Braking Braking Components for the MTB Industry


Braking components for the mountain bike, road bike and cycling industry. We manufacture mtb brake rotors, ceramic and traditional brake pads




mtxbraking.com





They are some of the best ceramics out there. I’d like to know who makes the best cintered.


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

Sintered


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## Battery (May 7, 2016)

I just got off the phone with Craig over at Avalanche Racing. I would have to say that they are the clyde specialists when it comes to suspension. I spoke with him for 30 mins about my DH bike suspension what I plan to break into pieces if I were to ride it. In a nutshell here's what I learned:

For my 280 pound weight:
-Fox 40 fork is the only thing that will work on my DH bike. RS Boxxer/DVO forks will bend due to my weight if I were to do some DH riding 
-The Fox DHX2 is a POS and the small shaft on it will snap in half even with a heavier spring 
-He recommended a Fox Bomber CR shock with the right coil and a dual suspension setup for my current 2016 Fox 40

I recommend that some of you link up with him to get an appropriate Clyde setup. He says most of his customers are Clyde's. I highly recommend you chat with him for setup questions to see what he recommends for you. He can setup quite a variety of forks for us Clyde riders. 

On my Specialized Turbo Levo, my local suspension shop actually did some magic to my Fox X2 shock so it's more Clyde friendly too. He was able to get me 30 percent sag at 290 psi by doing some shimming and what not. If you have a local suspension shop, check with them to see what they can do for you too.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Battery said:


> I just got off the phone with Craig over at Avalanche Racing. I would have to say that they are the clyde specialists when it comes to suspension. I spoke with him for 30 mins about my DH bike suspension what I plan to break into pieces if I were to ride it. In a nutshell here's what I learned:
> 
> For my 280 pound weight:
> -Fox 40 fork is the only thing that will work on my DH bike. RS Boxxer/DVO forks will bend due to my weight if I were to do some DH riding
> ...


Specialized tends to use long shock yokes which is what causes DHX2's thinner shafts to snap. If the yoke is less than 70mm, there is no issue. I've ran them since 2019 w/ 5000+ miles without issue.....I've been hearing great things about Avalanche since I got my First Full suspension bike in 2011.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

levelseventysix said:


> This is all helpful info but what would be even more useful would be links to some of brake pads you all have purchased and liked. Preferably something I can easily buy here in the states (Amazon, ebay, etc.). From a cursory search, there's a lot to choose from. So being able to narrow down my choices would be cool.


I typically order a lot of stuff from Fanatik. Fanatik Bike Here is the link to MTX pads on their site but you can also find sintered pads there as well/


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

I think this one is gonna be something special. Near 100% anti squat. Low starting leverage ratio of 3.1.









TECHNOLOGY


3VO SUSPENSION By tuning leverage ratio, pedaling behavior, and braking control to work together, 3VO suspenion offers outstanding pedaling efficiency with instantaneous response to both small and large impacts. Leverage Ratio .. Anti-squat (Anti-squat calculated based on 1150mm center of...




ministrycycles.com


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## Brules (Jul 10, 2021)

Battery said:


> I just got off the phone with Craig over at Avalanche Racing. I would have to say that they are the clyde specialists when it comes to suspension. I spoke with him for 30 mins about my DH bike suspension what I plan to break into pieces if I were to ride it. In a nutshell here's what I learned:
> 
> For my 280 pound weight:
> -Fox 40 fork is the only thing that will work on my DH bike. RS Boxxer/DVO forks will bend due to my weight if I were to do some DH riding
> ...


What’s a fox bomber CR? And did he recommend doing anything with the fox 40 fork?


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Brules said:


> What’s a fox bomber CR? And did he recommend doing anything with the fox 40 fork?


Marzocchi (made by Fox) Bomber CR


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## Battery (May 7, 2016)

Brules said:


> What’s a fox bomber CR? And did he recommend doing anything with the fox 40 fork?


For me, he recommended I buy 1 new Fox 40 stanchion and convert it to air seeing I have an old school Fox 40 coil setup. Avalanche has some unique double coil hybrid system which uses air and coil to help support us bigger folks. If I went through his shop, he would have built up the 2nd stanchion for me and did the conversions as he went along.


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## Stewiewin (Dec 17, 2020)

levelseventysix said:


> I'm big and tall: 6'6" 290lbs. I got into mountain biking four years ago when I bought my 2018 Tallboy (XXL obviously!). I love that bike so much. Thing is, I never really paid attention to setting up the suspension because all I wanted to do was ride and have a good time. Basically the shop set up the fork and shock and I kept the shock set to 300psi.
> 
> Over these four years my skill level has grown to the point that I want to venture out to different trails in the hopes of leveling up my skills a bit more. And to do that, I've been considering something in the range of the new Hightower. But now I'm wondering how much a big guy like me would even benefit from having more travel. Would it be noticeable? How much tuning can one really get out of the suspension at our size?
> 
> Hope that's enough info to get the conversation going...


Travel has nothing to do w weight its more about riding style. for weight its the PSI in the fork.


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## levelseventysix (Jul 24, 2018)

Another brakes report: 
Front brakes seem to be working much better. I picked up some MTX gold pads but haven't put them on yet. I'll wait to see if I can get a full life out of my current pads before swapping. One thing I think I will be doing however is changing the rear rotor to a 200mm. The 180 doesn't seem to agree with me on this bike. 180 is enough on my Talboy but not on the Hightower.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

levelseventysix said:


> Another brakes report:
> Front brakes seem to be working much better. I picked up some MTX gold pads but haven't put them on yet. I'll wait to see if I can get a full life out of my current pads before swapping. One thing I think I will be doing however is changing the rear rotor to a 200mm. The 180 doesn't seem to agree with me on this bike. 180 is enough on my Talboy but not on the Hightower.


At least 200mm.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

levelseventysix said:


> Another brakes report:
> Front brakes seem to be working much better. I picked up some MTX gold pads but haven't put them on yet. I'll wait to see if I can get a full life out of my current pads before swapping. One thing I think I will be doing however is changing the rear rotor to a 200mm. The 180 doesn't seem to agree with me on this bike. 180 is enough on my Talboy but not on the Hightower.


I run 203 at a minimum on the rear prefer 220 front. Current bikes are 220/220, 220/203, 203/203, 203,203


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

Mine are actually 203 / 203 as well.


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## Ih8Hondas (5 mo ago)

Tall BMX'r said:


> Mine are actually 203 / 203 as well.


Same here. Haven't taken it to a bike park yet though. We'll see if I want a bigger front rotor after that. The 203mm has plenty of power. We'll see if it will dissipate the heat though.


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## Brules (Jul 10, 2021)

Hightower will take a make or 203 I think. I have 200s on mine.


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

Brules said:


> Hightower will take a make or 203 I think. I have 200s on mine.


I just added a washer on one of the bolts to get the rear caliper lined up perfectly with my SRAM guide R's. 200mm is a SRAM spec and 203mm is a Shimano spec.


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## Brules (Jul 10, 2021)

Yes I’m saying the largest diameter possible it 203. 220s won’t fit. So go 200 or 203. The Shimano ice tech 203s are supposed to be nice!


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

I have an Ice on the rear, and a stock Shimano on the front. I like the Ice. It's generally quieter.


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