# 140 mm rear tandem hub?



## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

I'd like to get rid of the 7speed suzie freewheel setup on my old Santana. I've got a bunch of 8speed stuff lying around so it could have been an easy upgrade but back in the early 90s Santana built their frames with 140 mm spacing before going to 160mm. So, my options in seem to be:

1. Run my old 32 hole 135mm White Industry hub on the rear and either squeeze the frame together or figure out a some sort of spacer. I figure I'm going to blow this up in no time but my stoker only weighs 85 pounds.

2. Find an 8speed freewheel and suck it up and keep running the old hub but I'm due for new chainrings soon so this would be a short term solution before the drivetrain gets overhauled anyway. 8speed freehwheels seem to be a collector's item and it'll be a bear to get the old one off:madman: 

3. Lace up a new wheel with a 140 mm hub but I can't seem to find any non-disc tandem rated hubs. No disc tabs on the rear of course but I've got a 203 mm disc on the front. For that matter, I don't see any 140 mm disc hubs either.

4. Have a local frame builder spread the existing triangle to fit a 145mm hub. I don't know if this is a big deal or not or maybe I can just jam it in there anyway.

5. The least attractive option. For $150 Santa will rebuild the rear triangle to space it out to 160mm and add disc brake tabs. Paint, however, is another $575. Ouch and I'll need a new wheel anyway.

Any ideas my fellow tandem enthusiasts? As always thanks for any input.


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## tductape (Mar 31, 2008)

A few of the 140mm tandem hubs still available- PhilWood, Chris King, Shimano HF-08.


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## Sam Jones (Feb 25, 2005)

I'd do #1 and put a 5mm spacer on the left side to minize dish.

Spreading the frame 5mm (assuming it is a steel frame) should be EASY to do yourself. Just put a sissor jack of something in there and spread it a little at a time until you get to 145. In theory the dropouts will be slightly wider at the bottom (but this is a nit). If it bothers you you can just put a large adjustable crescent on them and bend them back to verticle (but it will probably be such a small change you will barely be able to measure it with a small L square)


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

Thanks for the replies. Some internet searching has revealed some 140 mm hubs out there but I would probably have to pay full pop even if built my own wheel. The 140 mm rear triangle was built with the intention of being mated with a stronger, dishless rear wheel? With that in mind, presumably if I can bend the steel stays from 140 to 145mm I can build a stronger wheel? Especially if it has to be dished to fit a disc. And there are a lot more 145 mm hubs out there than 140.

I replaced the rear cantilever brake with a v-brake but I may add disc tabs somewhere down the road so to speak and there are a lot more disc hub options.


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

*just a follow up*

White Industries sent me a 5mm spacer free of charge for my vintage White Industries Ti cassette hub. Luckily I have the 15mm axel and not the 12mm. I broke a pawl way back when and the aluminum freehub body was pretty deformed so it was replaced with a steel one so that is good. With the 140mm spacing I redished the wheel but I'm a little worried that the Mavic 515 rim it is laced to will not hold up.

Which rim do any of you tandem enthusiasts think will hold up better with a 32 spoke 3 cross with supercomp spokes? Combined captain/stoker wt is 300 pounds.

Sunringle Rhyno Lite or Mavic XM719


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## TandemNut (Mar 12, 2004)

with 32 spokes you'd better use something heavier duty than that. Like a Sun MTX.


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

hey, thanks for the reply. I thought the MTX was disc only? Those things are monsters. I'm going over to the Voodoo shop right now to have Joe widen the seat/chain stays. If he can.


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