# No more virtual bike for me!!!!



## rzozaya1969 (Nov 28, 2004)

Hey guys, look what I picked up today:










Inside that box, came this:


























As an extra, this:










I think I'm going on saturday to get the headset pressed in and the bottom bracket and crankset installed, I think I can take care of the rest. It's a pretty nice frame!


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## rzozaya1969 (Nov 28, 2004)

Anyway, I seem to have a problem. The seatpost refuses to lift. It's stuck in the frame, any ideas to remove it? I loosened the quick release, but the post won't move. Maybe some WD-40?


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## triphop (Jul 27, 2004)

sweet bike bro! 
about the seatpost thing... leave it out on the sun for a while (if theres any sun these days) and see if it loosens up a bit... or... try the WD-40, however wait for any more input on the WD-40... just in case it might screw things up and thats a really nice frame uve got there


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## triphop (Jul 27, 2004)

BTW... whats with the Titus box? did warp have anything to do with it?


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## rzozaya1969 (Nov 28, 2004)

triphop said:


> BTW... whats with the Titus box? did warp have anything to do with it?


No, I think that speedgoat was kind enough to save the original box from my ML and decided to use until now...


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## ritopc (Jul 3, 2004)

PLAIN BEAUTIFUL!!!!!:thumbsup: 

keep us posted on the built.

ohhh.. and about that Roam video, it would be nice if, once you get tired of watching it, I can lend you The Collective, and you can lend me Roam for a while. :skep: :skep: or better yet, we could make copies of them (piracy:nono: ) if you know how to do that 

Congrats on the bike!!! looks pretty nice and tough.


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## arivas (Oct 11, 2005)

Congrats on the new frame! It really looks nice, as for the stuck seatpost... From Sheldon Brwn's site it looks as the W-40 won't work but maybe amonia will do the trick, here's the link hope you can find something usefull:

http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

El Rivas


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## 545cu4ch (Aug 11, 2005)

Congratulations :thumbsup: 
You waited a loooong time for that bike. It must feel good to finally have it.
I really like how the rear triangle looks


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## Captain Jack Sparrow (Jan 26, 2006)

Se ve bien el cuadro y es un AM ! Buena elección a falta del SC Chameleon... en fin! felicidades! a mi me dieron un CD-ROM cuando compre mi ETSX y no se si todas las marcas lo hagan pero si es raro .... al principio pensé que era para ponerlo entre los rayos de mi rueda delantera. ut: :smilewinkgrin:


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## rzozaya1969 (Nov 28, 2004)

ROCKY_RENE said:


> Se ve bien el cuadro y es un AM ! Buena elección a falta del SC Chameleon... en fin! felicidades! a mi me dieron un CD-ROM cuando compre mi ETSX y no se si todas las marcas lo hagan pero si es raro .... al principio pensé que era para ponerlo entre los rayos de mi rueda delantera. ut: :smilewinkgrin:


Finalmente, me gusta mas que el chameleon. Bueno, me salió un poco mas caro por traerlo contra el que supuestamente lo conseguía local.

pd... que menso, el cd no es para la rueda delantera, duh! Lo cuelgas detrás del casco para que los coches te vean! Eso es lo que dice en las letras chiquitas.....


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

That's a gorgoues one, Rzoz!!

BIG CONGRATS!!!

As for the WD-40... yeah, it may help. But maybe you'd like to degrease the parts that got into contact with the WD-40. Install an old cheapo saddle and turn it with the leverage the saddle gives.

Amonia... uh... why not? If Sheldon says it... 

I was about to suggest a pipe wrench... it works for the frame, but not for the post.


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## rzozaya1969 (Nov 28, 2004)

ritopc said:


> PLAIN BEAUTIFUL!!!!!:thumbsup:
> 
> keep us posted on the built.
> 
> ...


I just watched "Roam". It's very nice, but to be honest, I liked "The Collective" better. It had nice stunts, nice places, but something in the tempo and the music wasn't up to the level of the Collective.


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## elmadaleno (Jul 8, 2005)

rzozaya1969 said:


> Anyway, I seem to have a problem. The seatpost refuses to lift. It's stuck in the frame, any ideas to remove it? I loosened the quick release, but the post won't move. Maybe some WD-40?


This usually works for me


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## rzozaya1969 (Nov 28, 2004)

elmadaleno said:


> This usually works for me


I agree, but, since I'm such a newbie, let me watch you use that on your 5spot, after it's nice and shiny, and if I understood your subtle techniques, I might decide to go for it, if not, maybe you can redemostrate on your flux 

Thanks


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

rzozaya1969 said:


> I agree, but, since I'm such a newbie, let me watch you use that on your 5spot, after it's nice and shiny, and if I understood your subtle techniques, I might decide to go for it, if not, maybe you can redemostrate on your flux
> 
> Thanks


He meant to cut the seatpost, not the bike....

I still prefer the good ole Pipe wrench... the mechanix last resort! :thumbsup: 
There's nothing that could oppose resistance to a good, fine 24" pipe wrench...

On a serious note... have you got to get it out?


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## rzozaya1969 (Nov 28, 2004)

Warp said:


> He meant to cut the seatpost, not the bike....
> 
> I still prefer the good ole Pipe wrench... the mechanix last resort! :thumbsup:
> There's nothing that could oppose resistance to a good, fine 24" pipe wrench...
> ...


No, I think I'll wait until I put the cranks, pedals and wheels, put an old saddle and try to rotate it out. I think there's no space to put a pipe wrench to pull it out....


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

rzozaya1969 said:


> I think there's no space to put a pipe wrench to pull it out....


The head of the seatpost is perfect for that... but you need a big, bad-arse pipe wrench. Pipe wrenches have serrated jaws that grip even on smooth surfaces like polished stainless... there's nothing that resist to them.

I was obviously joking with the Pipe wrench... it would leave deep ugly marks on the saddle and would render it useless if it's stuck hard. Pipe wrenches are sized by the total lenght of the thing... so a 24" pipe wrench is a 60cm monster that opens the jaws like 3" (80mm) and can rip off anything on its way with no effort.

Try the WD-40 and the old saddle thing... It will come off, unless it would have been pushed hard against some butting of the seat tube's inside. But I find it very unlikely.


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## elmadaleno (Jul 8, 2005)

Or jut put the seat on, that should give you more leverage than you have.

Cheers,

Mada


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

elmadaleno said:


> Or jut put the seat on, that should give you more leverage than you have.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mada


Mada and his "Half Time Syndrome"... 

(It's already been suggested... )


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## elmadaleno (Jul 8, 2005)

Warp said:


> Mada and his "Half Time Syndrome"...
> 
> (It's already been suggested... )


Hey!!! I don't have the time to read all your posts man!!!  I just skim them...


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

Aluminum expands and contracts a lot with changes in temperature- much more than steel. If you can find a way to heat the tube quickly before the post heats much, it will probably be easier. Maybe a hair dryer, heat gun for melting glue or even hot water will help. Good luck with it, anyway- looks nice.


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

rodar y rodar said:


> Aluminum expands and contracts a lot with changes in temperature- much more than steel. If you can find a way to heat the tube quickly before the post heats much, it will probably be easier. Maybe a hair dryer, heat gun for melting glue or even hot water will help. Good luck with it, anyway- looks nice.


Problem: Seatpost is aluminum too.... being tubes as thin as they are on bikes, heat will transfer quickly to the seatpost expanding it too.

Also, materials thermal growth is volumetrical, not linear. So, in a heat expanded tube, the inner diameter becomes smaller and the outer diameter bigger... and that could lead to a seatpost even more stuck.

I've seen many times how trying to unstick a bolt, you end up galling it and having to cut the piece all together, while appliying heat.

I would try it anyways with the hair dryer...


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

When you heat sometning hollow, both diameters expand. I know that for sure because we heat bearings to about 240F (110C?) as a general practice before installing them on a shaft. They slip right on and in about 30 seconds you need a puller to get it off. You`re probably right about the post expanding too, though. That`s why it has to be quick and maybe it isn`t possible to be quick enough without damaging the paint. I think 545 is right- he really ought to give the frame away before he hurts himself.


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

rodar y rodar said:


> When you heat sometning hollow, both diameters expand. I know that for sure because we heat bearings to about 240F (110C?) as a general practice before installing them on a shaft. They slip right on and in about 30 seconds you need a puller to get it off. You`re probably right about the post expanding too, though. That`s why it has to be quick and maybe it isn`t possible to be quick enough without damaging the paint. I think 545 is right- he really ought to give the frame away before he hurts himself.


I understand that... Mechanical Engineer here. Some experience on field applications also... Gas Turbines included. These things heat a bit on moving parts... hot path reaches 650C easily and the use of superalloys is not uncommon, almost a must.

In the case of the bearing, you heat the bearing ALONE. In service, the shaft heats with the bearing too. That's why the bearing doesn't come off when the thing is subject to temperatures during service (casing design apart). In the case of the seatpost you run the risk of heating both parts. The inner will expand towards the outer and vicecersa.

You can also do what you describe on materials with very dissimilar heat expansion factors. In bike parts, when you want to press in a seal for the fork, you put it in the freezer a few minutes and it'll go in easily.

This is one of the most misunderstood field jobs... I've seen many stuck parts had to be cut off because some genius brought a torch to heat a bit for the parts to let go. It doesn't work with similar materials.

We had used that method you describe to press in bearings. I prefer that one to the method where you use an hydraulic press to expand the bearing/bonnet. Hydro pressures used are in the order of the 15,000 or more PSI's and a failing hose could lead to a serious accident.


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 21, 2006)

!Ya ves! If Banshee ordered their seatposts from me, it would be made of Honduran Mohagany. Rzozaya wouldn`t have those problems AND, if he wanted to, he could stop by the side of the road, string up six lengths of Jagwire to his bottom bracket and play "How High The Moon" just like Les Paul. The world is too complicated....


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

rodar y rodar said:


> !Ya ves! If Banshee ordered their seatposts from me, it would be made of Honduran Mohagany. Rzozaya wouldn`t have those problems AND, if he wanted to, he could stop by the side of the road, string up six lengths of Jagwire to his bottom bracket and play "How High The Moon" just like Les Paul. The world is too complicated....


You forgot the brazilian Pau Ferro... you know what it's for..


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