# User review: YINDING YD-2XU2 (Gemini Duo clone)



## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Nobody has written a review of this popular light so I'll do it :thumbsup:
Sorry for any possible errors or weird spelling - english is not my native language. Feel free to ask me any questions about this light, I'll try to answer them all.

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1443727 
You can buy it here and on other websites. I'm writing a review of this custom version with XM-L2 neutral white leds:
Free shipping 1Set CREE XML2 T6 3B Bike Light 1600lm Waterproof Bicycle Light LED HeadLamp + 8.4v Battery Pack + Charger-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com

«Lights reviews - Yinding 2xU2 (Gemini Duo Clone)» all pictures are available here, you can also view high-res originals (click on any picture, bottom-right corner will list all resolutions, use google translate if needed)

*PACKAGING / CONTENTS
*Cardboard "gift box", used for many chinese bike lights:

You'll get the light, battery, charger, headstrap mount, 2 rubber rings for handlebar mount and the box.
*
DESIGN*
This light is a direct copy of Gemini Duo and probably the smallest 2 XML light that you can buy atm.
Gemini Duo ? 2013 Mtbr Lights Shootout | Mountain Bike Review
Gemini Duo 4 Cell front light - BikeRadar
Gemini Duo: Nine Brilliant, High-Powered Lights | Bicycling Magazine
You can read reviews of the original at the links above, most of the info there can be applied to this clone. Main differences between the original and the clone are much worse battery and 3 fixed brightness levels on clone vs 3 programmable levels on original.

Light's head is very small with 2 plastic TIR lenses over the leds. Weight of the head is only 59g, dimensions are 44x23x34mm without plastic mount.
There is a single button on the back with model name engraved near it.



Yinding compared to SolarStorm X2 and Fandyfire D99 (another simular light with TIR lenses, but a bit larger and heavier).


It has a magicshine-style connector, mount with piece of rubber glued on it (thats a sign of good quality light, cheaper lights don't use rubber there) and waterproof o-ring on the power cable.

You can also rotate the mount, another rare feature for chinese lights.
Mounting area is flat without any cable holes so you can use/make your own mount, see post #11 for example:
https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-nigh...xu2-gemini-duo-clone-887497.html#post10818765
*
BATTERY*
Usual cheap chinese battery, 4x18650 2S2P cells in shrinkwrap, 7.4v voltage. *Not waterproof!* You have to cover it in plastic bags/rubber balloon/gloves or something to protect it from water or it'll short-circuit like this:

Battery capacity is kinda ok for chinese batteries but still horrible. I have 2 lights and here are the discharge graphs for them:

Battery 1, 3600mAh with very weird unstable voltage on discharge cycle.

Battery 2, 3200mAh with good stable voltage. 
Both of these batteries will work for about 2 hours on high mode and imo you should replace them with something better from Xeccon/Magicshine/Gemini.

*UI*
4 modes, switched with single click in this sequence: off-low-mid-high-off and repeat. Strobe on hold, high frequency, not very usable imo. 
*
TEARDOWN*
Lets open it up and see how its made :thumbsup:
Starting from the mount:

3mm hex screw, plastic mount, 2 rubber o-rings between the screw, mount and the case.

O-rings removed. These o-rings will hold the mount at any angle so you can turn it and leave at specific angle that you need.
Nothing else on the bottom so lets move to the front.

2 small hex screws (about 1.5mm) hold the front part of the case. Removing the screws and front part gives us access to the 2 plastic TIR lenses and XM-L2 leds. Both lenses and the front part of the case have rubber o-rings under them so this light should be competely waterproof.

Leds are mounted on aluminium backplate and connected in series. You can also see that this specific version has XM-L2 leds (silver color of the led, 2 bounding wires instead of 3 on 1st gen) which the seller replaced himself...and it wasn't a very good job - there are fingerprints all over the plate and wires soldering is not very good.
Moving on, next we have to remove 2 screws on the sides of led's backplate:

These long screws are connected to the back side of the case.

With screws removed we can also lift up led's backplate to discover proper amount of good thermal paste underneath - everything is ok here. And here is an important part - led's backplate is mounted directly on the outer case, there is no additional pills here so thermal transfer is excellent (unlike D99 where leds were basically handing in air).

Moving on to the back, another view of the case inside and metal wall in the middle. There is a small hole in the center for led's wires and a hole on the side for power wire. Power wire doesn't have any pull-out protection so be careful with it.


2 pics of the driver and we're done. Soldering looks good everywhere, driver is marked "HX-1343". There are 2 smd leds for battery charge level indication, R110 current sense resistor that you can replace to increase current on leds (not recommended though, case can't really handle any additional heat).
*
ELECTRONICS*
This time I'll use a picture with every measurement:









A few addional notes about it:
Current from battery is measured on external PSU set at 7.5v, thats the average voltage on discharge cycle. You can divide your battery capacity on current to get estimated runtime in hours (for the included battery at high mode its 3200/1700 = 1.88 hours, a good quality battery like Xeccon 5200mAh will give you 3.06 hours).
There are 2 values for current on leds because driver is a bit weird...it usually outputs 1.7A on high, BUT when input voltage is 6.9-7.2v it jumps to 2A. I have no idea why this is happening, but I double checked everything and it just works like this.
Driver will go out of regulation at 6.4v on input = leds will start to dim. This is a good feature as you'll notice that even if your light is mounted on helmet and you can't see the battery indicator on it. At about 5v it will turn off competely.
Lumens output is a very rough estimation (I don't have integrated sphere to properly measure lumens output) based on this calculator:
LEDCalc.fonarevka.ru
And with 20% reduction for losses in optics to calculate estimated OTF lumens. Still it should be close to real output, I verified that by calculating and comparing results for other lights/flashlights.

*IMPORTANT NOTICE!
*This light is very small and very lightweight so it will heat up VERY FAST. While moving it will be cooled by air so its not a problem, but don't run it on high mode for a long time when standing still - it can and will overheat very easily. 
Some users have reported that it has overheat protection that will dim/turn off the light but I haven't tested that and I don't recommend to rely on such protections - overheating is bad for leds and electronics.


znomit said:


> Tested the thermal cutoff today.
> Cuts in around 70C (IR thermometer).
> No hysteresis so theres a bit of flicker before it come fully on&#8230; guess thats a good visual warning. Cuts all modes back by half.


*
BEAM PROFILE*
Compared to D99 on the right:

D99 uses the same type of lenses with wider angle (probably 22-30 degrees compared to 15 on Yinding) so the beam is almost the same. Its wider on D99 but its hard to notice on that picture.
Compared to SolarStorm X2 on the right:

Here you can see the difference between TIR lens and reflector. Reflectors on SSX2 have noticable sidespill and tight hotspot in the center while TIR on Yinding gives just one wide hotspot.
You can also see the difference in color temperature in both pictures. Neutral-white XM-L2 leds have more natural-looking slightly yellow color vs blue-white color of typical cheap chinese cool white XM-L leds.
*
BEAMSHOTS*
2 simple beamshots on the ceiling:


This light uses TIR lenses (probably 15 degree wide like these ones 15 Degree Angle LED Optical Lens - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme) that give it a wide and floody hotspot with gradual fade at the edges, which is less tiring on the trail than usual high contrast reflector lights. Not a very good thrower though but should be an excellent light for the bars.
Its not a pure flood light and not a thrower, its somewhere in between and works great as a single light for low and medium speed riding on the roads/trails.
And a beamshot on the road, sorry for cellphone quality:
 
And here are some beamshots stolen from another threads and sites 

















*
CONCLUSION
*
Pros:
Very small, very light.
Good mount.
Good wide-hotspot beam.
Excellent thermal transfer from leds to outer case.
XM-L2 neutral white leds in this version, better color rendition and easier on eyes compared to cool white.

Cons:
Bad batteries.
Overheats very easily.
No brightness levels adjustment like on original Gemini Duo.

Overall - great light imo, one of the best chinese lights atm. Not very powerful but so small and light! I will probably use it myself as a backup light for long rides, it doesn't take much space on the handlebars and provides good amount of light for forest/trails riding.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

And another review done! Will proofread it tomorrow and fix any errors.
It's getting cold and rainy here so hopefully I'll have more time to write my reviews. Next up is Xeccon Spiker 1206 review/comparison with cheap chinese 1xml light, I'll try to show what you're paying for when buying expensive brand name lights. After that - huge Solarstorm X2 comparison, got 9 samples here to show all the variety and lottery of popular chinese bike lights (spoiler alert - expect _horrible_ batteries and random output/random quality  ).


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## Mr.Grumpy (Oct 26, 2012)

Nicely done Kir, great review!


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## Gharddog03 (Sep 25, 2013)

Excellent review Kir. Thank you.


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## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

Kir,

Great job. Do you have any idea what the current draw is for the original Gemini duo?


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Thanks *Kir*, excellent review!


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Confused...is the one you tested use the XM-L2 or XML-U2 LEDs?


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

steelhmr said:


> Kir,
> 
> Great job. Do you have any idea what the current draw is for the original Gemini duo?


No idea about that, I just don't have any spare money to buy expensive lights like Gemini for testing.



> Confused...is the one you tested use the XM-L2 or XML-U2 LEDs?


This was for XM-L2 version, still waiting for my U2 version. When I'll get it I'll add data to measurements but it should be about the same.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Seems all the places are out of the ~$50 and now its ~$80....that is Gemini territory (light head only...which is all you are really getting here).


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Thanks Kir, great info !!


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Kir said:


> *
> CONCLUSION
> *
> Pros:
> ...


Great review...let me add a few cents

Pros:
Even XML U2 version has quite nice white color light
The cable does not come out at the mount area and this area is flat. That means you can easily adjust your own mount...like this (This goes for 880clone and SSX2 as well)









Cons:
there is small weak point for water...that are the screws for front panel. I wraped screws with teflon tape and now I can throw it in water and be very confident. (excluding the battery)
no memory mode...at least press and hold function should be off and not strobe.
Mounting O-rings are really crapy!!! Buy silicone ones!

*the beam is actually quite tight, no where near to flood. That would be MJ872. You could say it is very floody spot light. I think perfect beam for helmet light for off road use.
*battery is not that bad compare to other cheap bike light sets. (3x clone, SSX2...) I measured my pack to around 3500+mAh. (MJ828 battery has just 10-20% more capacity and it costs almost as Yinding whole set.)


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

That XM-L2 soldering is poor  Seems to be done by hand and not in the oven.


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## superkermit (Nov 14, 2013)

Any link for the silicone rings?


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Thanks for all the info and comments! Updated few section of review.



TiGeo said:


> Seems all the places are out of the ~$50 and now its ~$80....that is Gemini territory (light head only...which is all you are really getting here).


Not really, head only is $43 shipped on aliexpress while gemini duo is $93+shipping on action led lights.

bhocewar, I dont think that water can get through screws in front unless you're submerging it in water 
Floody spot light is a good description for it. I'll make a few rides and then update info about beam profile. 
15 Degree Angle LED Optical Lens - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme - looks very simular so its TIR lenses could be 15-20 degrees too, which is kinda tight but with good hotspot brightness.

MK96, of course its done by hand - oven is too expensive  And I actually can make a much better soldering myself.


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## superkermit (Nov 14, 2013)

Do you have a link to just the head?


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Kir said:


> 15 Degree Angle LED Optical Lens - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme - looks very simular so its TIR lenses could be 15-20 degrees too, which is kinda tight but with good hotspot brightness.


Might be the same. I would say Yinding has 15° optics. DX measurments are 22mmX13mm. Yindings are 20,0X11,3mm. If DX didnt measure with the black housing it might be exact the same dimensions.


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## superkermit (Nov 14, 2013)

Oh and a link to any different type of reflectors to change the beam pattern?


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## superkermit (Nov 14, 2013)

bhocewar said:


> Might be the same. I would say Yinding has 15° optics. DX measurments are 22mmX13mm. Yindings are 20,0X11,3mm. If DX didnt measure with the black housing it might be exact the same dimensions.


https://www.fasttech.com/products/1144800


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## superkermit (Nov 14, 2013)

I have ordered a few different optics to see differences in beam patterns.

I can leave one original optic in and change the rest to see what happens.


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

If you wanted a tighter beam, these 8 Degree Angle LED Optical Lens - Black  might fit.

DX also has 5, 20, and 30 degree that might fit as well.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Kir said:


> Not really, head only is $43 shipped on aliexpress while gemini duo is $93+shipping on action led lights.


Action has the 2013 Due (XML U2) for ~$70 + shipping so call it $75 (10% off). I was basing my comment on the $80 I am seeing online...I didn't see the $43 head-only option on Ali.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

It would be nice to have two DUOs next to each other with inner lenses about 15 and outer ones with 30 - 45 to spread some light to sides. I will try that with 880 clones.


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## whokilledJR (Sep 24, 2012)

The fact that the AMPS get higher as the battery depletes is good news, it has either a buck or boost driver. A lot of cheap chinese lights use linear drivers which means the light output decreases as the batteries deplete. Case in point given an hours usage a light that starts out at say 1400l will probably drop well below 1000l.

Buck/boost drivers increase the current as the battery voltage decreases, meaning light output remains the same until the batteries are almost fully depleted. I bet this light pumps out more lumens after 15-20 minutes than most cheap chinese lights that are said to pump out 1200+ lumens, and the superior heat design will also contribute to better and longer lasting brightness.


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## Swervemonk (Sep 11, 2007)

Kir, thanks for the great review

Kir (or other), Can you tell me the difference between these 2...

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1443727 
You can buy it here and on other websites. I'm writing a review of this custom version with XM-L2 neutral white leds:
Free shipping 1Set CREE XML2 T6 3B Bike Light 1600lm Waterproof Bicycle Light LED HeadLamp + 8.4v Battery Pack + Charger-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com

I know that the one from Aliexpress is no longer available, but you mention "custom version with XM-L2 neutral white leds". Is this a noticeable difference? I know that the ~$50 offering from fasttech has a less than optimal battery -- but I will be replacing that with something from Xeccon (hopefully small one for helmet and larger one for bars). Will be using for commuting and when timing works out - nite riding/24 hr racing. Thoughts on the charger from the fasttech offering (safety), and how are people doing custom/semi-custom helmet mounts.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

err, I just got one of these and it's great

I don't know about using it as a backup, it is my new primary on the 
bars with zebralight h600w mkII on the noggin

will switch to pannovo 4x18650 8.4 pack from DX with my own 18650's to
fix the wimpy yinding pack. 

as it was, I rode 2 hours at 32 deg F and it ran
on high the whole time with the stock 4400mah pack. 

this thing wins the tiny light race hands down
enough lumens and throw to ride anywhere imho...not lacking in light output (to me)


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## eggdog (Nov 17, 2010)

TiGeo said:


> Seems all the places are out of the ~$50 and now its ~$80....that is Gemini territory (light head only...which is all you are really getting here).


Looks like it is back in stock. Head unit only, no battery

Free shipping 1Set CREE XML2 T6 3B Bike Light 1600lm Waterproof Bicycle Light LED HeadLamp+ Charger (without battery)-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

eggdog said:


> Looks like it is back in stock. Head unit only, no battery
> 
> Free shipping 1Set CREE XML2 T6 3B Bike Light 1600lm Waterproof Bicycle Light LED HeadLamp+ Charger (without battery)-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com


Still....$65 head only...the 2013 Duo (head only) is not that much more.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

TiGeo said:


> Still....$65 head only...the 2013 Duo (head only) is not that much more.


Considering the difference in price, the difference in the two vendors and the product differences I'd go with Gemini Duo from Action LED. The Aliexpress price is way too much for a lamp without battery. Duo clone ( lamp only ) should not be more than $40 tops.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

wallbuys has these clones

battery + light 48 bucks free ship


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

127.0.0.1 said:


> wallbuys has these clones
> 
> battery + light 48 bucks free ship


Link?


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## eggdog (Nov 17, 2010)

Cat-man-do said:


> Considering the difference in price, the difference in the two vendors and the product differences I'd go with Gemini Duo from Action LED. The Aliexpress price is way too much for a lamp without battery. Duo clone ( lamp only ) should not be more than $40 tops.


The aliexpress does have the newer L2 led's. I purchased this and will be interested to see how it compares to my original duo ( 2013 model), in terms of brightness and efficiently.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

$46.46 Yinding 2 x CREE XM-L U2 1800LM 4-Mode White LED Bike Light / Headlamp-Red(4x18650)

click OTHER and you can find black and blue as well

they got this to me in US in 14 days exactly

can track shipment here (any china ship track)
International Track and Trace service

Wallbuys doesn't have problems shipping batts
*Battery can ship normally*
1.Now Battery can ship normally,u can buy it from now on


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

eggdog said:


> The aliexpress does have the newer L2 led's. I purchased this and will be interested to see how it compares to my original duo ( 2013 model), in terms of brightness and efficiently.


 The MTBR shootout measured the 2013 Duo at 1100 lumens and the 2014 at 1200, so that might be just barely perceptible. It would be interesting to see the runtime difference.


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## BeDrinkable (Sep 22, 2008)

TiGeo said:


> Action has the 2013 Due (XML U2) for ~$70 + shipping so call it $75.


Speaking of links, do you have one for this deal? When I check the ActionLed site, I see the same that Kir does. $93.00 for the head only ... I'd certainly think about picking one up at the lower price.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

There is a 10% off code...can't post link from phone but you just need to look at their main page and there is a link off it for their clearance stuff...code is in there.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## BeDrinkable (Sep 22, 2008)

Ah, gotcha, thanks! Price + shipping is around $85.00, but still a pretty great deal.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I must have mistyped..sorry about that..you are correct.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

Nice review.

I know a bit about designing LED drivers, so thought I'd add my 2 cents worth:

1 - driver board is very well laid out, quality of soldering is the best I've seen in an inexpensive light from China.

2 - Driver chip should allow higher voltage power supplies, but I'm not sure of the voltage of some of the other parts. One of my projects over the xmas holidays will be to solder on some different components and see if I can run the light on 11.1 and 14.8 volt battery packs. The voltage sensor in the light may be modifiable to work with other voltages. Google for SM5241 if interested in chip specs. Datasheet is in Chinese, anybody care to translate?

3 - current sense resistor is a lower power rating than I would choose. I want to experiment with some different sized ones rated at a watt or so. On the plus side sense resistor is soldered to two fairly big copper planes that should help dissipate heat.

4 - I'm not seeing a temperature sensor on the driver board (to dim LEDs if they get too hot. Could be one built into the microcontroller (on side of board with push button, could be a Microchip PIC). Thermal path from housing to board not very good. I will add some thermally conductive glue and see if lights get dim when housing is hot.

5 - my light came with perhaps a bit too much heat conductive paste between LED board and housing (your pictures looked like yous had a bit less). If you get one of these lights and the housing takes more than a minute or so to heat up when running on high, open it up and remove some of the paste with a Q-tip. Spread what's left in a thin layer on back of LED board and on housing. Keep paste away from hole for LED wires. Press board down and wiggle/slide back and forth before putting bolts back in. A thinner layer of paste will conduct heat better. I will probably experiment with using a thermal epoxy to see if that works better.

6 - battery pack and charger not the greatest. I did not open the battery up but it looks like a low quality Magicshine pack from the outside. It has worked pretty well on a few test rides, but I never trust stuff like this till I open it up. The charger looks well laid out and soldering looks pretty decent. It does get warm during charging, so that always bothers me. It does not have an isolation transformer, so this will probably never get UL listed  I bought one of these:

PANNOVO B-C04 Water Resistant 4 x 18650 Battery Pack Case for Bike Lamp - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

and it works with light and some higher quality 18650 batteries I have. The down side to this is you need to buy 4 batteries, the holder, and a charger. But you get around charge balance issues and can use good quality batteries instead of unknown quality batteries. I'm using batteries with a built in protection PCB. There is probably not a protection PCB in the battery holder so be careful if using unprotected cells.

This seems like a well designed, well produced light. I will try to generate a schematic and report on my experiments over or after the holidays (my schedule till then is pretty full).

mhahn


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Fixed one small error in electronics section, added beam profile to compare beam and color temperature.
Finally found a good dark place near my home so I'll start adding beamshots to my reviews. They will be made from cellphone so don't expect great quality...I can't carry my DSLR on my bike so thats the best that I can do right now.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> 4 - I'm not seeing a temperature sensor on the driver board (to dim LEDs if they get too hot. Could be one built into the microcontroller (on side of board with push button, could be a Microchip PIC). Thermal path from housing to board not very good. I will add some thermally conductive glue and see if lights get dim when housing is hot.


Mine drops to half power when the case is around 70C (which doesn't take long on the bench).
Its jumps up and down for a bit before throttling back continuously so no hysteresis on the thermal monitoring.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I just did some research, seems that the best deal going currently is at wallbuys with a 11% coupon code so $43 with battery etc.


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

11% coupon code?


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Yep Kir, got it from retailmenot..I plugged it to test and it worked. Code is WALLBUYSALLMAGIC


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

Great, thanks for info. This is the best deal atm and since they're using Malaysia/Switzerland post they will send it with battery too.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I really think I will "pull the trigger" for $45 just to have a different light to mess around with for my bar.


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## Gharddog03 (Sep 25, 2013)

Sweet deal for 43$.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

A summary of where to get the yinding. I checked all of the following sites for this light:

fasttech
dx
wallbuys
aliexpress
kaidomain
lightmalls
ebay
amazon

They all had it except for kaidomain and lightmalls; ebay and amazon have it listed for much more $$ than the others ($60-70 range). It appears from reading all of these threads that only aliexpress has the upgraded xm-l2 version; the rest are are xml u2. Wallbuys has the lowest price ($43 w/coupon code). I can't find any true light-head only options; the ones that don't come with a battery are that way due to shipping issues. Anybody else want to add to this that has done some searching around?


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

TiGeo said:


> It appears from reading all of these threads that only fasttech has the upgraded xm-l2 version; the rest are are xml u2.


??????


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

bhocewar said:


> ??????


??????


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

I mean...where do you see Fasttech having XML2 Yinding?


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## eggdog (Nov 17, 2010)

TiGeo said:


> ??????


Alliexpress also has the updated led. XML2 ($62 for light only.)

I just got notification that mine just shipped, and I will do a comparison side by side with my original duo ( 2013) model.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

bhocewar said:


> I mean...where do you see Fasttech having XML2 Yinding?


Go to the review on the first page.....

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Can you direct me to that review saying it has XML2 leds?


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

bhocewar said:


> Can you direct me to that review saying it has XML2 leds?


Dude...its post #1 of this thread...read it.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Dude, Kir bought his custom XML2 Yinding from Aliexpres not from Fasttech.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

bhocewar said:


> Dude, Kir bought his custom XML2 Yinding from Aliexpres not from Fasttech.


My bad..you are correct...aliexpress it is then. I have edited my post to reflect this.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

TiGeo can you tell me were they sell the XML2 on Ali express?

YINDING YD 2XU2 Cree XM L U2 1200LM 4 Mode Cool White Bikelight Red-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com

From the description it clearly says XML - U2???


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

TiGeo said:


> My bad..you are correct...aliexpress it is then. I have edited my post to reflect this.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


No, you were right the first time.  Link from the first post. Not sure if Kir posted the wrong link. Maybe he has the XM-L (U2) version.

edit...Oh, I see you argue on whither Fasttech or aliexpress...nevermind


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Ok...Kir specifically mentions in the first post of this thread that he has a "custom" Yinding with the XM-L2 LEDs. The link shows this as being from Aliexpress (per bohcewar). He also linked one from Fasttech first, but this I believe just has the XM-L U2 LEDs (my mistake). Trd620, just click on Cat's link to go the XM-L2 light.


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## eggdog (Nov 17, 2010)

Here is the link for Aliexpress and the XML2 led

Free shipping 1Set CREE XML2 T6 3B Bike Light 1600lm Waterproof Bicycle Light LED HeadLamp+ Charger (without battery)-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com


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## superkermit (Nov 14, 2013)

Is there a real world difference in XML2 vs XML U2?


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

Has anyone bought the light from wallbuys and if so did you get a battery pack it?


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## eggdog (Nov 17, 2010)

superkermit said:


> Is there a real world difference in XML2 vs XML U2?


XML2 should be a tad brighter and a bit more efficient. I have the original Gemini Duo (XML U2) and it is bright and am currently running it as a bar light. Since I really like the size, quality and design of the Duo, I want to try the upgraded LED for my helmet.

For my use, this should be a perfect set up. My XML2 just shipped from Aliexpress, so I should have it shortly. Once I get it I will make some side by side comparisons in regards to brightness and run times..


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

superkermit said:


> Is there a real world difference in XML2 vs XML U2?


Yes, but not everyone can tell the difference. If you compare the two in a head to head comparison using the same optics, driver and lamp you should be able to detect the difference in output ( on high ). Will the difference change how you ride?...probably not.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

Trd620 said:


> Has anyone bought the light from wallbuys and if so did you get a battery pack it?


yes and yes
14 days delivery from web click to mailbox


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

thanks for that 127.0.0.1 will be placing an order tonight! 

Just out of curiosity would any know if it is possible to install a remote switch from a battery pack to control the light levels or does it have to go to the light head? I went for a night ride on the weekend a remote switch would have been ideal to ensure the light head does not overheat


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## Kir (May 30, 2013)

superkermit said:


> Is there a real world difference in XML2 vs XML U2?


You won't notice brightness increase on XM-L2 leds, but you probably will notice neutral-white color of 3B bin which gives much better color rendering.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Kir said:


> You won't notice brightness increase on XM-L2 leds, but you probably will notice neutral-white color of 3B bin which gives much better color rendering.


I probably should have assumed that the poster was asking the question in regard to the available Duo-clone. That being the case yours in the better answer. 
My answer was in regard to just the LED's themselves with all other things ( amps, optics, bin and tint level ) being equal which of course at most times is not the case.

When I first saw the beam photos of the XM-L2 T6 3B tint D-clone my first thought was that the beam shot of the XM-L ( U2 ) version looked brighter. Hard to compare visual output on warmer binned upgraded emitters to brighter/whiter bins on lower grade emitters. If I had a chance to compare both with my own eyes, only then could I know for sure. With these cheap lamps you never know when they are going to use a different driver or optic that might also change how the output looks. Like I said before, "rarely are all things equal".


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## eggdog (Nov 17, 2010)

Looks like Aliexpress is having a sale on this unit. 30% off on Dec 2nd. Not a bad price for this clone!

Free shipping 1Set CREE XML2 T6 3B Bike Light 1600lm Waterproof Bicycle Light LED HeadLamp+ Charger (without battery)-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com


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## MegaVolt (Feb 7, 2004)

The aliexpress seller (Simon Mao) can replace the LED in the light with T5 5B1 or T6 4C at no charge - it least he did it for me (bought a total of 7 of these lights from him).

He is not a man of many words but he ships quick and he keeps his word (ordered several lights from him off Alieypress - just sent him money via PayPal - and got my items safe and sound).

Yes the soldering is sloppy (as seen in the first post - same was in my lights) but hey for those who don't know how to use a soldering iron it's a chance to get a Neutral White XML2 at no charge.

I guess you can ask to replace the led with whatever he's got in stock:
CREE XML2 LED - Shop Cheap CREE XML2 LED from China CREE XML2 LED Suppliers at Shenzhen Great Wall Technology Co., Ltd. on Aliexpress.com


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## MegaVolt (Feb 7, 2004)

Ian_C said:


> DX also has 5, 20, and 30 degree that might fit as well.


Could you post a link to the 5 degrees lens?


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## tycoonrider (Dec 10, 2013)

Hi All,

Just got the XML2 version from aliexpress for $45, let's see how long it will take before it gets here.

So you guys mentioned the battery case/holder and charger is garbage?

Where can I get an alternate replacement? 

Can I run this of a 2 cell battery (to save weight)? 
My commute at night is only ~30 mins.

Do they make a case/holder for 2 cells? 

Can someone school me on battery/packs? 

Somewhere down the road I might get another one of this Yinding Clone for my helmet, can I connect 2 of these lights to a single 4 Cell Battery pack?

Thanks for all the info guys (just joined mtbr forum) and got into lighting.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

tycoonrider said:


> Can I run this of a 2 cell battery (to save weight)?
> My commute at night is only ~30 mins.


The supplied battery should be OK, you'll get a weeks commute easy on medium which is still plenty of light. Remember to waterproof it.
You'll save only 3oz switching to a 2 cell so don't bother.


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

I run a 2 cell battery with mine. I get over an hour of run time, with at least 80% of that on high.

Tim


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

superkermit said:


> Is there a real world difference in XML2 vs XML U2?


somewhat....your battery will drain faster on high that is for sure. medium l2 might be close to high u2 on some lights. on a 3 stage light like this is really means: ride shorter rides brighter on high, or longer runtimes on 'medium which would almost equal u2 high brightness'.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

tycoonrider said:


> ...So you guys mentioned the battery case/holder and charger is garbage?
> 
> Where can I get an alternate replacement?
> 
> ...


You need to look over "The Battery Thread" as far as the schooling. That would be the better thread to get the answers you are looking for.

Quicky answers; yes you can buy two cell ( series ) holders but you will need to supply a suitable connector plug to use with your lamp and find a way to keep the cells in place so they don't come out. All this is readily doable. You will also need a 18650 cell charger if you want to charge loose cells.

You can of course obtain other suitable batteries at a good price. Right now the major Chinese web sites are having a problem getting the batteries out of the country due to the new shipping guidelines. ( * along with holiday delays ) Don't be surprised if your light set is delayed because of this.

Once again, look over the last 50 posts on the Battery thread. Read what the others are saying and you should get some more ideas. If you have more questions on "what battery set-up to buy", that is the place to ask the questions.

Oh...almost forgot...Welcome to the Lighting and bike light sub forum.


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## robs31 (Sep 2, 2009)

tycoonrider said:


> Hi All,
> 
> Just got the XML2 version from aliexpress for $45, let's see how long it will take before it gets here.
> 
> ...


Did you read the top of the add where it states that it does not include a battery???

Because now the post is very strict ,we can not ship battery .

Notice this bike light is not include the 8.4V battery Pack now

Only black version in stock now


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## tycoonrider (Dec 10, 2013)

*Thanks All*



robs31 said:


> Did you read the top of the add where it states that it does not include a battery???
> 
> Because now the post is very strict ,we can not ship battery .
> 
> ...


Yep, I noticed that, that's why I was asking about my battery option.

Thanks for all the replies, I did not see the Battery thread Cat-man-do.

Will commence reading that thread now.

In Tokyo, Japan at the moment, and I was hoping to score some genuine Panasonic 18650 from the Dept store, so far it's been a bust.
Languange barrier, gonna try another store later today.


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## robs31 (Sep 2, 2009)

I got my XML2 T6 3B version 18 days after ordering from Aliexpress. Paid 45 with the 30% off deal on the 2nd for the head only. It arrived in a plain brown box wrapped in a shipping bag and contained the light head, charger (no battery so not sure why they are sending a charger), head strap and orings with tabs. I was inspecting the light and noticed that the front plate was a little loose so I got my allen wrench to tight up the screws and discovered the threads were stripped as the screws just spun. I can pull the front plate off without touching the screws which is a little concerning. I have inquired with the seller about this. I ran the light and was pleased with the level spacing, the color and beam pattern. It's exactly what I was hoping for based on this review and other beam shots. I put it next to a small fan that would simulate a medium climbing speed with the indoor temp at 68F. Turned it on high and using my Flir thermal camera watched it climb quickly to 125F and then it slowly continued to climb up to 140F when I abandoned the test. It quickly dropped back down, probably 30-40 degrees in about a minute. The temp on the case is fairly evenly distributed with it slightly higher right next to the LED's. The front and back plates are not well connected, as would be expected with the orings, but does warm up. Overall, with the exception of the stripped screws, I am very pleased with the light.


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## eggdog (Nov 17, 2010)

robs31 said:


> I got my XML2 T6 3B version 18 days after ordering from Aliexpress. Paid 45 with the 30% off deal on the 2nd for the head only. It arrived in a plain brown box wrapped in a shipping bag and contained the light head, charger (no battery so not sure why they are sending a charger), head strap and orings with tabs. I was inspecting the light and noticed that the front plate was a little loose so I got my allen wrench to tight up the screws and discovered the threads were stripped as the screws just spun. I can pull the front plate off without touching the screws which is a little concerning. I have inquired with the seller about this. I ran the light and was pleased with the level spacing, the color and beam pattern. It's exactly what I was hoping for based on this review and other beam shots. I put it next to a small fan that would simulate a medium climbing speed with the indoor temp at 68F. Turned it on high and using my Flir thermal camera watched it climb quickly to 125F and then it slowly continued to climb up to 140F when I abandoned the test. It quickly dropped back down, probably 30-40 degrees in about a minute. The temp on the case is fairly evenly distributed with it slightly higher right next to the LED's. The front and back plates are not well connected, as would be expected with the orings, but does warm up. Overall, with the exception of the stripped screws, I am very pleased with the light.


 I also got this same one from Aliexpress and my front plate screws are stripped also. I emailed them and they told me to " try and find" some screws that fit.. I also did not have the rubber gasket on the front plate.

Played Chinese light roulette and lost! Not surprised but this is a poor quality constructed light. Glad I have an original Gemini !


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

eggdog said:


> I also got this same one from Aliexpress and my front plate screws are stripped also. I emailed them and they told me to " try and find" some screws that fit..


Common problem then. The treads are pretty tiny. :incazzato:
One of my middle screws was just holding on. I ground the LED star down to half height to give it some more thread to grab. Worked OK.
Also note that the rear and front screws are the same apart from the head size. :madman:


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

Sure glad I ordered a second Gemini Duo instead of the clone!


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

I don't know who is putting the t6 leds in, but yinding is specing U2. it is the second party who is shoving in the t6 led who is stripping the screws and leaving fingerprints and whatnot. if you want an unmolested and unstripped yinding, order u2 version


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

localhost  you are probably mixing XM-L U2 with XM-L2 T6. XM-L2 T6 could be replaced by hand on request. T6 in 2nd generation produces more lumens than U2 in 1st gen. You can also get some nice 3B,4C, 5B tint of neutral white.


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## robs31 (Sep 2, 2009)

MK96 said:


> localhost  T6 in 2nd generation produces more lumens than U2 in 1st gen. You can also get som nice 3B,4C, 5B tint of neutral white.


This is exactly why I went with this one. Like with any chinese lamp, you roll the dice and hope you don't get snake eyes. I'm currently in negotiations with the seller to recoup some of my loss.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

MK96 said:


> localhost  you are probably mixing XM-L U2 with XM-L2 T6. XM-L2 T6 could be replaced by hand on request. T6 in 2nd generation produces more lumens than U2 in 1st gen. You can also get some nice 3B,4C, 5B tint of neutral white.


what I am saying is, I now have three yindings (2 gifts) and none had any stripped screws or anything else wrong...they are all U2 version (original) so I am thinking if you get an up-modded LED one, that might be how they are arriving with stripped screws. some modder messed up ?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I think so. Small screws need minimum tightening torque but maybe someone doesn't know that 


127.0.0.1 said:


> some modder messed up ?


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

I thought I would post the different Beam patters from various Yinding lights I have bought. The first Picture is the first light I bought from FASTTECH. It has semi water proof connectors and they lock together, the battery dies after 3 uses which was expected. The optics on this light fell like nipples.








The second photo is the Yinding I bought from Wallbuys as my mates were impressed by the flood beam from the one I bought from FASTTECH. I thought the lamps would have the same Beam pattern or close to it but as you can see in the photo its more of a spot beam. The connectors are a standard cheap magicshine clone type which was also a let down The optics on this this one is Flat to touch. 








The last photo is a clone of a clone, The optics on this one are flat but have holes in centre of the lenses. this lamp also fades to the next mode when you press the button. The connectors are also a cheap magicshine clone type. the cord comes underneath the lamp and it does not have front hex screws light the rest on the yinding lamps, it seams all the work is done through the rear


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Trd620 said:


> I thought I would post the different Beam patters from various Yinding lights I have bought. The first Picture is the first light I bought from FASTTECH. It has semi water proof connectors and they lock together, the battery dies after 3 uses which was expected. The optics on this light fell like nipples.
> View attachment 857352
> 
> 
> ...


Good photos. :thumbsup:

The one bought from from Fasttech ( first photo ) looks to be the one you want if you want to bar mount the lamp. For helmet mount I'd go with the one from Walbuys ( the second photo ).

The connectors you call "cheap Magicshine" can you provide a photo of those? thanks.


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

First one is the light from Fasttech, second is from Wallbuys and the third is the Yinding Clone. I thought I would put a few other photos for people to reference the differences, For me the Fasttach light is perfect for the bars and i was testing the Wallbuys light on my helmet and it is a great helmet light for me, I don't know how it will work out for my mates.


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

The first one "Fasttech" seems original "first batch" Yinding - Original MS connector, dimpled optics, nice beam pattern. It is exactly like my DX Yinding. 
I am also waiting for YD from Wallbuys and I hope it wont be like yours. Wallbuys have pictures that show MS connector...scam?
I am very dissapointed to see they are ruining this great light. The third one YD clone is a joke.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Trd620 said:


> First one is the light from Fasttech, second is from Wallbuys and the third is the Yinding Clone. I thought I would put a few other photos for people to reference the differences, For me the Fasttach light is perfect for the bars and i was testing the Wallbuys light on my helmet and it is a great helmet light for me, I don't know how it will work out for my mates.
> View attachment 857398
> 
> View attachment 857399
> ...


Well, you didn't show the female battery side of the plug/connector issue. If the female side has a good rubberized or plastic ( threaded ) sleeve it should hold tight.

There are bad male plugs out there. I have one on my tri-clone. It works with my MS female plug but not with the threaded plastic connector. For some reason the metal shaft is shorter than typical male plugs on that set-up and the plastic after the shaft is not as wide. Sort of a double whammy. I can make it work but it is the worst connector set-up I have.

The Hunklee batteries really do need to have either the threaded plastic or rubberized shield so the male plugs have something to grab onto.


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

The top connector in the first photo is the Fasttech yinding and the one below it is the wallbuys one. the Fasttech battery plugs into both of the light heads, but the wallbuys battery connector cannot plug into the fasttech light head


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

Trd620 said:


> The top connector in the first photo is the Fasttech yinding and the one below it is the wallbuys one. the Fasttech battery plugs into both of the light heads, but the wallbuys battery connector cannot plug into the fasttech light head
> View attachment 857486
> View attachment 857487


just the opposite for my wallbuys purchases

all three yindings had the waterproof 'pop' style connector 
which in yer photo is what fasttech sent

freaking odd


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

Must be a new batch and they changed the connectors. I'm actually happy about the Beam being different it works out in my favor, see how the mates go tonight.


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## 2melow (Jan 5, 2004)

127.0.0.1 said:


> just the opposite for my wallbuys purchases
> 
> freaking odd


Same here. Also, I have a huge "flood" beam pattern, as opposed to your more spotty lamp. I purchased very early on from Wallbuys when the light + battery was $51.00 (mid August)


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## Relic38 (Sep 6, 2013)

it seems just aliexpress has this L2 version, does anyone contact wallbuys and ask them whether they can provide this one ??


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

Just got the second version from Wallbuys. Compared to my first version this one is not worth the money. 

Connectors are not Magicshine compatible (DC 5,5X2,5 instead of DC 5,5X2,1)
Poorly waterproof
bad battery
some second hand plastic mount (it doesnt even fit the light body)
bad assembly.

Acctualy all the things that made first Yinding so great are now bad, very bad.

The only positive thing: the second version got xml2 leds.

I think only DX sells original Yindings...will that confirm in a few weeks.


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## mark__gti (Nov 17, 2013)

What makes you think that the DX ones are the original?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

bhocewar said:


> Connectors are not Magicshine compatible (DC 5,5X2,5 instead of DC 5,5X2,1)


You can make it compatible using this small adapter Black 5.5 x 2.5mm DC Socket to 5.5 x 2.1 DC Plug Adapter for Laptop (2 PCS)


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## bhocewar (Mar 15, 2009)

mark__gti said:


> What makes you think that the DX ones are the original?


Because I have one early from DX and another friend is getting it soon from DX so I will be able to confirm/deny that DX still sells the first "original" good batch.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

bhocewar said:


> Just got the second version from Wallbuys. Compared to my first version this one is not worth the money.
> 
> Connectors are not Magicshine compatible (DC 5,5X2,5 instead of DC 5,5X2,1)
> Poorly waterproof
> ...


holy crap !!!!! that blows. the 'original' so to speak is the shiznat for low bux light. can't believe it is getting crapped-up (well I can believe it but daymn!)


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## agu (Jun 22, 2007)

Darnit I just ordered a set from Wallbuys. Oh well will report on the lottery result when they get here.


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

I ordered one also


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## SlSto (Dec 4, 2013)

I recieved mine yesterday from Fasttech. It is also has the substandard mount and connectors! The mount wasn't too much of a problem as I ordered a Hope QR mount. The lens are flat across the face. Other than those common flaws with this version of the light the body looks very nice and to be of a good quality. I haven't yet had the opportunity to open it and have a look inside nor have i tested it outside yet.


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

My fast tech one had the good click in connectors my wallbuys one has the crapy connectors they seam like mis match everywhere


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I wrote Fasttech about the cheap connectors. They told me to send photos and offered a replacement set of connectors. I will keep you guys posted.

When I ordered mine, there were none to be found anywhere. I had to wait for new stock to arrive. I'm thinking this is the factory rushing to fill orders and using whatever they could get fast and cheap


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## dirtyjack (Jan 22, 2010)

agu said:


> Darnit I just ordered a set from Wallbuys. Oh well will report on the lottery result when they get here.


Don't hold your breath. I ordered one on Dec 9. All it shows is "acceptance" on the Swisspost tracking site. Now that I've asked them for a refund, they've gone silent. I just disputed it on my MC. This makes me 0 for 2 (Fasttech couldn't get one through the mail either).


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## robs31 (Sep 2, 2009)

robs31 said:


> This is exactly why I went with this one. Like with any chinese lamp, you roll the dice and hope you don't get snake eyes. I'm currently in negotiations with the seller to recoup some of my loss.


So I was able to get a partial refund that I was satisfied with. I used a little high temp silicone to hold things in place and we'll see how long that lasts.


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## Stockli Boy (Feb 3, 2012)

My Fasttech Yinding showed up today after about a month. I am letting it run down the battery now on low (case is warmish to the touch, ambient temp about 65*F). Looks pretty good, beam pattern is nice. Only thing I noticed is that a 4-cell pack shipped with an 8.4V charger, so I may use my 7.2 from other Chinese lights for this pack. I think it will be nice as a headlamp, coupled with my MS clones (1X and 5X 50mm housings) and my NiteRider Storm HID (still alive and kicking). With all that light in the snow I'm like a 1-man beacon.

Hopefully I will test all of the lights on Thursday night, if anything interesting happens, like a light explodes, NSA satellite tracks me, or I run out of talent and crash, I will post it here.


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

I ordered mine on December 18 from FastTech and got it on the 6th on Jan. I ended up making my own mount from a Gopro mount. It is nice and sturdy and will go in the same place as my GoPro. All you have to do is a little cutting with a dremel and it works perfectly. Nice secure fit and easily adjustable.

Mine looks fine and works great. I plan on getting my nice R/C charger from home to charge the battery. It will do a better job than the cheapo wall charger.

















Mine also has the cheaper mount on it, but I did not care about that since I planned on making my own from the get-go. The connector is a bit different than the OP, but seems to stay together just fine. If I have issues, I will use one from my R/C's.

-Brett


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

Stockli Boy said:


> Only thing I noticed is that a 4-cell pack shipped with an 8.4V charger, so I may use my 7.2 from other Chinese lights for this pack.


Most of the lithium-ion batteries like 18650 which are used in this bike lights have nominal voltage of 3.6V-3.7V some call this also a storage voltage but when you charge them (let say you have 18650 cells and you charge them with Nitecore i4 charger) the will be charged to exactly 4.2V. All lithium-ion 18650 batteries are charged to 4.2V, and since you have 2S2P (2 serial 2 parallel) that will give you 8.4V, so when you fully charge this battery pack it has to have 8.4V @ output otherwise something is wrong with the cells inside the bat.pack.


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## Stockli Boy (Feb 3, 2012)

Sirius9 said:


> Most of the lithium-ion batteries like 18650 which are used in this bike lights have nominal voltage of 3.6V-3.7V some call this also a storage voltage but when you charge them (let say you have 18650 cells and you charge them with Nitecore i4 charger) the will be charged to exactly 4.2V. All lithium-ion 18650 batteries are charged to 4.2V, and since you have 2S2P (2 serial 2 parallel) that will give you 8.4V, so when you fully charge this battery pack it has to have 8.4V @ output otherwise something is wrong with the cells inside the bat.pack.


Thanks. I'll charge it tonight and check the voltage. I've read enough on this board to not trust the chargers or batteries much farther than I can fart them, so I have been dropping the batteries into an ammo can while charging. I let the light sit on my bench for over an hour last night on the low setting to drain the battery, it never got past warm-to-the-touch, and I used it again this morning for an hour while plowing. I have to say that the beam pattern is pretty smooth and fades nicely at the edges, I am not a fan of sharp cut-off.


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## thedumbopinion (May 15, 2008)

GJHS said:


> I wrote Fasttech about the cheap connectors. They told me to send photos and offered a replacement set of connectors. I will keep you guys posted.


The crappy connector is shown in the photo on their website. The first image shows how the male end cannot be inserted completely into the female end.
$51.02 YINDING 2*Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 1800-Lumen White LED Bike Light / Headlamp - 1*battery pack (4*18650 / 4400mAh / 2S2P) / US plug at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping


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## Relic38 (Sep 6, 2013)

*which one is Genuine*

so is there anyone compare the light from fasttech and wallbuys ? which one is Genuine?


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## dirtyjack (Jan 22, 2010)

dirtyjack said:


> Don't hold your breath. I ordered one on Dec 9. All it shows is "acceptance" on the Swisspost tracking site. Now that I've asked them for a refund, they've gone silent. I just disputed it on my MC. This makes me 0 for 2 (Fasttech couldn't get one through the mail either).


My Wallbuys clone finally arrived yesterday, only took 37 days :skep:

The fittings and screws are nice and tight, and the cables do fit my MagicShine battery connectors. I gave it a charge last night and neither the battery or the charger showed any signs of overheating.

I'll give it a trail test tonight.


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

Relic38 said:


> so is there anyone compare the light from fasttech and wallbuys ? which one is Genuine?


Gemini duo is genuine, all the rest are clones.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Sirius9 said:


> Gemini duo is genuine, all the rest are clones.


Inspired by the original and still the best, the Gloworm X2
Gloworm Performance Products - Gloworm X2 LED Light System V3.0 (1500 Lumen)


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## pabcor (Aug 25, 2011)

The original of all is the Lupine Piko


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

So who was actually the first one that came with this duo design? :skep: :bluefrown:


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## pabcor (Aug 25, 2011)

Piko from 2010 year i think


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## racerjerm (May 8, 2008)

Ordered one of these from aliexpress. What battery is everybody using? Anybody using any RC car/heli lipo batteries?

Free shipping 1Set CREE XML2 T6 3B Bike Light 1600lm Waterproof Bicycle Light LED HeadLamp+ Charger (without battery)


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

I thought about using a lipo battery from my R/C, but you would need a LVC so you do not damage the cells in the pack. I am not sure if the lighthead has anything like that built in or not...

-Brett


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## robs31 (Sep 2, 2009)

racerjerm said:


> Ordered one of these from aliexpress. What battery is everybody using? Anybody using any RC car/heli lipo batteries?
> 
> Free shipping 1Set CREE XML2 T6 3B Bike Light 1600lm Waterproof Bicycle Light LED HeadLamp+ Charger (without battery)


I'll be using a 2S1P 3400 Panasonic from Hung Lee. I strap it on my helmet and get plenty of run time using the 2S2P that I have now that is about the same capacity.

On another note, check the screws that hold the front plate on. Mine and several others have been stripped.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I am using li-po battery with a PCB cutoff at 3V/cell on a dual 7 led setup. Unless you don't need to draw lots of amps from battery it is not worth. What is your main reason to go for li-po? The price or some multi-light setup? Li-po should be handled with great care and have a good amount of insulation to prevent a bad branch on the trail to cause a fireworks from your li-po. Most of riders use original if it last some decent time or you can go for an upgrade like pannovo case and protected cells. See battery thread 2013 here - lot of info there about replacements and where you can get them from.


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## racerjerm (May 8, 2008)

Main reason: I race R/C cars and fly R/C helis, and have lots of Lipo batteries lying around. Not to mention a great charger (REVO powerlab 8). I solder on new connectors all the time. Trust me the batteries get a lot more abuse in the cars than they ever will on the bike...

I didn't think about the LVC though...



MK96 said:


> I am using li-po battery with a PCB cutoff at 3V/cell on a dual 7 led setup. Unless you don't need to draw lots of amps from battery it is not worth. What is your main reason to go for li-po? The price or some multi-light setup? Li-po should be handled with great care and have a good amount of insulation to prevent a bad branch on the trail to cause a fireworks from your li-po. Most of riders use original if it last some decent time or you can go for an upgrade like pannovo case and protected cells. See battery thread 2013 here - lot of info there about replacements and where you can get them from.


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## truks (Oct 25, 2013)

Hi all,
Just thought I'd share an experience with this Yinding light. My riding buddy recently purchased one from Wallbuys on my recommendation, as the light is getting decent reviews on this forum, and the price can't be beat. Unfortunately, he received the inferior version of the light. It was lacking proper waterproofing in the screws, had the inferior connectors, etc. He purchased this light with the battery, charger, etc. I am running a recently purchased MJ 880U (XML-U2) on my lid, which I am very impressed with. We compared the beamshots of the two lights on Mt. Fromme this week and the MJ 880 appears to have a fair bit more flood and throw (albeit with a whiter colour). We suspected a bad battery pack might be the problem for the Yinding's potential, reduced performance. The fully charged battery pack for the Yinding was putting out 8.1V. This sounds a bit low (should be 8.4V). However, I'm unsure if this small discrepancy in voltage could be responsible for what seems like a reduced performance on the trail. That being said, the Yinding provided adequate light to get my pal down the trail at high speed and become completely hooked on night riding. It's certainly a good light for the price. My riding buddy wanted to get an MJ-880 by the end of the ride, however!

If anyone has any insight on why this Yinding might not be cranking out enough light (perhaps this is as good as it gets?), it would be greatly appreciated. I was under the impression that it would be fairly similar to the MJ 880 in performance. I am, however, a complete newb to the sport of night riding, and know next to nothing about electronics. Please use the kid gloves... 

Thanks to everyone for your informative posts on the forum. I read them daily.

Cheers,
truks.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Carraig042 said:


> I thought about using a lipo battery from my R/C, but you would need a LVC so you do not damage the cells in the pack. I am not sure if the lighthead has anything like that built in or not...
> 
> -Brett


If the lamp has voltage indicators I don't think it would be a big issue. When the lamp gets to the last indicator you know it might be a good idea to switch batteries real soon.

If it doesn't have indicators you still have common sense namely, If you know how long you generally ride at night you use a battery with the appropriate capacity. If you don't use a cut-off circuit you use your eyes. When the lamp starts to dim it's time to stop using the battery. People use unprotected batteries all the time. As long as you are of aware of the issue and how to address it you should be fine.

While deep discharge is not particularly good for lithium batteries I really don't think it would be an issue unless you start doing it on a regular basis...And, If that was the case that would be your heads-up to get a bigger battery or start using lower power levels more often.

While I've used Li-ion batteries for years rarely ( if ever ) have I ever ran a Lithium battery to its lowest point while on a ride. The day that happens will be one big monster night ride.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

truks said:


> Hi all,
> Just thought I'd share an experience with this Yinding light. My riding buddy recently purchased one from Wallbuys on my recommendation, as the light is getting decent reviews on this forum, and the price can't be beat. Unfortunately, he received the inferior version of the light. It was lacking proper waterproofing in the screws, had the inferior connectors, etc. He purchased this light with the battery, charger, etc. I am running a recently purchased MJ 880U (XML-U2) on my lid, which I am very impressed with. We compared the beamshots of the two lights on Mt. Fromme this week and the MJ 880 appears to have a fair bit more flood and throw (albeit with a whiter colour). We suspected a bad battery pack might be the problem for the Yinding's potential, reduced performance. The fully charged battery pack for the Yinding was putting out 8.1V. This sounds a bit low (should be 8.4V). However, I'm unsure if this small discrepancy in voltage could be responsible for what seems like a reduced performance on the trail. That being said, the Yinding provided adequate light to get my pal down the trail at high speed and become completely hooked on night riding. It's certainly a good light for the price. My riding buddy wanted to get an MJ-880 by the end of the ride, however!
> 
> If anyone has any insight on why this Yinding might not be cranking out enough light (perhaps this is as good as it gets?), it would be greatly appreciated. I was under the impression that it would be fairly similar to the MJ 880 in performance. I am, however, a complete newb to the sport of night riding, and know next to nothing about electronics. Please use the kid gloves...
> ...


Could be your 880 just has a better driver. Then again the 880 has reflectors and yinding's use optics so they will have different beam patterns. Different beam patterns can "look brighter" if most of the light is more centered.

As for the battery, don't be surprised if the next time it charges it reaches a higher peak voltage. Always a good idea with new batteries to charge, then let sit a good while ( half a day ) and then charge again to see if there was any self-balancing that needed to go on. With cheap batteries sometimes this can be an issue.

In the end it comes down to this; Your friend bought a cheap light set. If it works you win. If he get's usable run time from the battery he wins. If he wants something brighter or better there are always going to be better/brighter things you can buy. If you friend likes your light he might try buying the 880 clone sold over on Kaidomain. I believe that got pretty good reviews. Note that the driver is providing 2.8A on the 880 clone. That should be very bright. That lamp uses a cell holder so if you buy good batteries you get a better battery. I'm surprise more people haven't bought these.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

The pictures on this thread showed that the MJ880 was better than the Duo Clone
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/2013-budget-light-shootout-886062.html

It's a well designed, high end light. The duo clone is 1/4 of the cost. For the price I don't think you can expect much more.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

truks said:


> Hi all,
> Just thought I'd share an experience with this Yinding light. My riding buddy recently purchased one from Wallbuys on my recommendation, as the light is getting decent reviews on this forum, and the price can't be beat. Unfortunately, he received the inferior version of the light. It was lacking proper waterproofing in the screws, had the inferior connectors, etc. He purchased this light with the battery, charger, etc. I am running a recently purchased MJ 880U (XML-U2) on my lid, which I am very impressed with. We compared the beamshots of the two lights on Mt. Fromme this week and the MJ 880 appears to have a fair bit more flood and throw (albeit with a whiter colour). We suspected a bad battery pack might be the problem for the Yinding's potential, reduced performance. The fully charged battery pack for the Yinding was putting out 8.1V. This sounds a bit low (should be 8.4V). However, I'm unsure if this small discrepancy in voltage could be responsible for what seems like a reduced performance on the trail. That being said, the Yinding provided adequate light to get my pal down the trail at high speed and become completely hooked on night riding. It's certainly a good light for the price. My riding buddy wanted to get an MJ-880 by the end of the ride, however!
> 
> If anyone has any insight on why this Yinding might not be cranking out enough light (perhaps this is as good as it gets?), it would be greatly appreciated. I was under the impression that it would be fairly similar to the MJ 880 in performance. I am, however, a complete newb to the sport of night riding, and know next to nothing about electronics. Please use the kid gloves...
> ...


8.1 volts, not really an issue. 
just an indication that the pack may not be 'all that great'
or the charger is not that great. I expect my yinding pack to fail early and i have a pannovo 2s2p ready with my own 18650's when it does croak.

however when a pack does get charged and drops to 8.1 right away, it could 
mean it is on it's way out soon. my yinding pack comes off charger at 8.21 volts.

thing should run down to lower than 7.6 volts easily without affecting light


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

Cat-man-do said:


> If the lamp has voltage indicators I don't think it would be a big issue. When the lamp gets to the last indicator you know it might be a good idea to switch batteries real soon.
> 
> If it doesn't have indicators you still have common sense namely, If you know how long you generally ride at night you use a battery with the appropriate capacity. If you don't use a cut-off circuit you use your eyes. When the lamp starts to dim it's time to stop using the battery. People use unprotected batteries all the time. As long as you are of aware of the issue and how to address it you should be fine.
> 
> ...


The only thing is depending on where the light is mounted, you may not be able to see the indicator light. Also, does anyone know the voltage at which the indicator light changes.? Lipo batteries should not go below 3.0-3.1 on the low side per cell. Better at 3.2. A lvc would be easy and cheap to install. There are different types. Ones that will make a noise letting you know it is running down to the more traditional that will cut the power. I wouldn't recommend doing it by visual, it is better to be safe with a proper set up and it will also help the cells last longer.

Brett


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Carraig042 said:


> The only thing is depending on where the light is mounted, you may not be able to see the indicator light. Also, does anyone know the voltage at which the indicator light changes.? Lipo batteries should not go below 3.0-3.1 on the low side per cell. Better at 3.2. A lvc would be easy and cheap to install. There are different types. Ones that will make a noise letting you know it is running down to the more traditional that will cut the power. I wouldn't recommend doing it by visual, it is better to be safe with a proper set up and it will also help the cells last longer.
> 
> Brett


Yes, if the lamp is helmet mounted a voltage indicator doesn't help unless you take your helmet off from time to time.

About the indicators in general; It is pretty much a well know fact that voltage indicators seem to vary from lamp to lamp. I've heard of indicators that turn red ( last warning ) that give you another half hour of run time and I've had one of my own that turned red only to have the lamp go completely out in a few more minutes. If you have indicators it's best to do a test run-through so you know what to expect from your lamp's indicators. I should also note that different batteries used on the same lamp will also produce different outcomes. Also remember that cold temps will change how the indicators work. Lesson learned....do a test run-through before getting caught out in the woods without battery power. Have a back up plan and you're good.

Another option is to buy batteries that have a voltage indicator built onto the battery. Once again you might have to stop to read the indicator on the battery

The lamps I use regularly ( on the bars ) don't have indicators although I do own lamps that DO have indicators. When I use lamps with indicators ( on the bars ) I usually place of piece of electrical tape over the indicators. I do that because ( usually ) the indicator leds are quite bright and shine in my face which I don't particularly like. When I need to view the indicators I just lift or move the tape. Since my regular lamp doesn't have an indicator I still have the option to run another lamp ( with indicator ) in parallel with my regular lamp if I ever feel I have the need. Since I rarely do rides long enough to approach the battery cut-off, I have yet to really need the indicators.

Hummm...just had an interesting thought. Would be nice if someone made an indicator that would "plug" in-line with your MS compatible Lamp/battery. Money to be made for the company that makes the first commercially sold version. ( **Even better if you could program the cut-offs for each level.. :thumbsup: )


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

When I had lost the battery roulette I bought 30C discharge li-po, Emperor Fusion L702 and some other stuff. I soldered 5.5 mm bullet connectors to the cut-off PCB and I am more than happy with the performance of the lights and the battery. If you have li-pos laying around go and use them. But I would consider LVC, alarm or any other cheap stuff to show what is happening to the li-po cells. Most of PCBs that come with these cheap lights and indicators cut-ff or turn red at 2.3-2.5V/cell and that is quite a hazard for li-po IMHO.



racerjerm said:


> Main reason: I race R/C cars and fly R/C helis, and have lots of Lipo batteries lying around. I solder on new connectors all the time. Trust me the batteries get a lot more abuse in the cars than they ever will on the bike...
> I didn't think about the LVC though...


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## racerjerm (May 8, 2008)

Thanks for the replies. Yes, after researching a little more. I found a LVA for $2.00 at hobby king, cheap insurance. My worry was the batteries I wanted to use we're only 2000mah and wasn't sure how long they would last with the light. I have bigger but liked the light weight.



MK96 said:


> When I had lost the battery roulette I bought 30C discharge li-po, Emperor Fusion L702 and some other stuff. I soldered 5.5 mm bullet connectors to the cut-off PCB and I am more than happy with the performance of the lights and the battery. If you have li-pos laying around go and use them. But I would consider LVC, alarm or any other cheap stuff to show what is happening to the li-po cells. Most of PCBs that come with these cheap lights and indicators cut-ff or turn red at 2.3-2.5V/cell and that is quite a hazard for li-po IMHO.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

racerjerm said:


> Thanks for the replies. Yes, after researching a little more. I found a LVA for $2.00 at hobby king, cheap insurance. My worry was the batteries I wanted to use we're only 2000mah and wasn't sure how long they would last with the light. I have bigger but liked the light weight.


What's a LVA? Is it a low voltage alarm? Could you show us more details on how you plan to hook this up, I would like to know how this is done.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

It goes right to the balance connector plug On-Board Lipoly Low Voltage Alarm 2s~3s


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## racerjerm (May 8, 2008)

varider said:


> What's a LVA? Is it a low voltage alarm? Could you show us more details on how you plan to hook this up, I would like to know how this is done.


Yes, Low Voltage Alarm. Just plugs into the balance plug. Google "lva hobbyking" should be the first thing that pops up.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Could you use something like this also? 
Hot 2in1 Indicator 1 8S RC LiPo Battery Voltage Tester Low Voltage Buzzer Alarm | eBay


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## racerjerm (May 8, 2008)

varider said:


> Could you use something like this also?
> Hot 2in1 Indicator 1 8S RC LiPo Battery Voltage Tester Low Voltage Buzzer Alarm | eBay


Yes, that is the same thing, only with indictor and works with a wider range of cells...


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Why not, I have LVA similar to this one but selectable alarm trigger from 2.9 to 3.5V

Low Voltage Buzzer Alarm Indicator 2S 4S LiPo Battery | eBay


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Actually you won't like to hear that little thing triggering that alarm sound


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

Let us know how long the 2000 mah battery lasts per charge please. I am interested in doing the same thing.

Brett


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## asafchar (Feb 21, 2012)

Sorry if this has already been answered (I got a bit lost in this thread and the battery thread...)
Does anyone have a link to a site where I can easily purchase an extra battery pack for this light? (preferably one of higher quality than the battery pack that came with it)

I bought the fasttech version and got it in the mail this week
$51.02 YINDING 2*Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 1800-Lumen White LED Bike Light / Headlamp - 1*battery pack (4*18650 / 4400mAh / 2S2P) / US plug at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

asafchar said:


> Does anyone have a link to a site where I can easily purchase an extra battery pack for this light? (preferably one of higher quality than the battery pack that came with it)


Hunk Lee on ebay.


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

znomit said:


> Hunk Lee on ebay.


I thought this thread had a link to a group of batteries that Hunk Lee sells that'll work with the YinDing Gemini Duo clone. Couldn't find it though. Can someone point me in the right direction? I just got mine and used it last night on my bars. Ran it in low mode (to accompany my helmet mounted light) and after 20 minutes of riding, the switch on the light went red. The battery lasted the rest of the ride but I'm not very happy with the battery that came with it. I also want to switch to those screw on connectors that Hunk Lee sells. Thanks in advance!

Also, this quick release mount from Action LED Lights works with the YinDing if anyone is interested.


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## robs31 (Sep 2, 2009)

Here is a link to Hunk Lee's batteries.

Panasonic NCR18650B 7.4V 3400mAh Protected Li-ion battery for Bike Light 2S1PM items in A-OK battery store on eBay!

Be sure to ask for the screw type connector on the battery and the male end so you can update your light to match.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

How to you make special requests when ordering from Hunk Lee? I got one of his batteries and wished I had known..didn't have the good connectors (MS-type that snap tight). Also interested in a screw-type fitting for my Solar Storm.


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

robs31 said:


> Here is a link to Hunk Lee's batteries.
> 
> Panasonic NCR18650B 7.4V 3400mAh Protected Li-ion battery for Bike Light 2S1PM items in A-OK battery store on eBay!
> 
> Be sure to ask for the screw type connector on the battery and the male end so you can update your light to match.


Forgive me, as I know nothing about batteries... This is the one I want to get: Panasonic LiIon Battery Pack 7.4V 5800mAh for MagicShine LED Bike Light NCR 2S2P

Will this battery work with my YinDing Gemini Duo clone? Thanks in advance!


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

cycljunkie said:


> Forgive me, as I know nothing about batteries... This is the one I want to get: Panasonic LiIon Battery Pack 7.4V 5800mAh for MagicShine LED Bike Light NCR 2S2P
> 
> Will this battery work with my YinDing Gemini Duo clone? Thanks in advance!


Yes, thats the one I got. Tested at ~5700mAhr. Excellent.


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

TiGeo said:


> How to you make special requests when ordering from Hunk Lee? I got one of his batteries and wished I had known..didn't have the good connectors (MS-type that snap tight). Also interested in a screw-type fitting for my Solar Storm.


When you check out on eBay, you can add a message to the seller. I just asked him to include the waterproof screw type connectors. I emailed him earlier and he said it was no extra charge.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

cycljunkie said:


> When you check out on eBay, you can add a message to the seller. I just asked him to include the waterproof screw type connectors. I emailed him earlier and he said it was no extra charge.
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3


I didn't ask, mine came with a spare lead that has the screw connector.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

cycljunkie said:


> When you check out on eBay, you can add a message to the seller. I just asked him to include the waterproof screw type connectors. I emailed him earlier and he said it was no extra charge.


^^ Edzackery


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## robs31 (Sep 2, 2009)

Same for me. Message at check out and no extra charge for both screw type leads and balance connector.


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

Can anyone yell me which charger to use for this battery?








I have the following chargers. The one on the left came with my YinDing Duo clone. The one on the right is from my MagicShine light.









Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

They will both do the job, the left one will be a little bit slower and the right one will be about double faster...


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

Next dumb question from a know-nothing like myself... Before I cut the lead from my YinDing Duo clone, can someone tell me which wire connects to the red wire and which one goes to the black?









Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

Sirius9 said:


> They will both do the job, the left one will be a little bit slower and the right one will be about double faster...


Cool Thx!

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

red wire is + (positive lead) -> middle of the conector
black wire is - (negative lead) -> outer part of connector


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## robs31 (Sep 2, 2009)

Red to red, black to black


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

I'm going to assume red to red and black to blue?









Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

You need a multimeter to find out the battery wires polarity. The red may be + but you need to be sure.


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

MK96 said:


> You need a multimeter to find out the battery wires polarity. The red may be + but you need to be sure.


Fresh out of multimeters. There has to be someone on this board that replaced the lead on their YinDing Gemini Duo clone... Anyone?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

The guy at batteries plus was worthless. What do I need to do to determine which wire to solder to which? Can anyone help me out?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

The battery says "red inside + and black outside -".

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

Tore apart the original connector and the red wire is inside +, blue wire outside -

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

All is well... Now I just need to go for a ride!









Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3


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## RochesterMTB (Sep 13, 2010)

*What exactly did I get?*

Ok, so I just got two lights from Fasttech. One has a lens gasket and is soldered much better with standard machine screws holding it together. It also has a slight greenish hue when on (seems a touch brighter). The other has no lens gasket appears to be re-soldered (poorly), has standard philips head screws and projects a whiter light. So how badly did I get screwed over here? What would you do to fix it? Also wondering if its normal for a fully charged battery to set the button LED color to red directly after turning it on?


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

You need to add the gasket and change the wires optionally. These seem to be soldered ugly and may fail overtime. ... and check the driver side also  At least they seem to have the same optic.


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## sultanrain (Aug 11, 2014)

Hi, I'm new here and instead of splicing power cable why not opne up light and solder new lead directly? Is cable too short? Anyway that's what I'd do.


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## sultanrain (Aug 11, 2014)

So, can anyone tell me if this light is still a good light as original poster reviewed or has light changed (cheaper mfg.) as to make it not worth the price. I have a Gemini Duo and want to get another so I have bar and helmet lights. I've read the entire post and saw the links to other reflectors/lens so I could modify one of the lights. 
A few of the newest posts have been from people complaining of quality issues, changes in parts, does anyone know where I could get the Yinding like the one reviewed or are they long gone? Thanks


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

In my experience the light you get this week from China will most likely be different than the one you get next week.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

RochesterMTB said:


> Also wondering if its normal for a fully charged battery to set the button LED color to red directly after turning it on?


my yinding does that on occasion. solution is unplug then plug back in and repeat until you get it to go green

I think it detects low power instantly from the thing being connected, and triggers the low batt function too early. it should have a delay on that circuit. anyhow, mine does that once in a while and if I reconnect it, it will go green eventually and good to go.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

Vancbiker said:


> In my experience the light you get this week from China will most likely be different than the one you get next week.


apparently returns are being recycled

no one knows for sure wtf is going on

I happened to get I think one of the 'perfect originals' but now they are all over the place. only thing consistent is the body shape, and circuit board inside says YinDing on it. otherwise it's all been changing around.

what I say original:

translucent white silicone gaskets
TIR lenses
quality internal paste and soldering job
allen screws not stripped


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Vancbiker said:


> In my experience the light you get this week from China will most likely be different than the one you get next week.


What surprises me is that some people don't seem to understand that when buying cloned lamps that nothing is set in stone. If you want something more concrete you buy a brand name lamp. Why do you think when the Yinding came out they were referred to as "Duo" clones? Didn't surprise me at all when the internal design was changed.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> What surprises me is that some people don't seem to understand that when buying cloned lamps that nothing is set in stone. If you want something more concrete you buy a brand name lamp. Why do you think when the Yinding came out they were referred to as "Duo" clones? Didn't surprise me at all when the internal design was changed.


basically this

some maker in china will tool up and produce 10,000 units and sell them and wait for another order

times goes by and returns come in, replacements go out

the maker then figures rework the returns and slap into the next 10,000 run. and continue to cut costs and cut costs forever.

only if a buyer demands quality and pays a premium will the maker put more effort in a production run, otherwise the lights start out as 'pretty good' and as time goes by they get diluted with junk. scraps get picked up by third parties and resold perpetually, including failed laptop battery packs which are reinvented into 3x and 4x18650 light battery packs.

you get what you pay for and the retail price for 'big name lights' is about market value for well constructed, tested, QC'ed, proper light systems. DX, alibaba, etc is the opposite end of the spectrum. chinese lights can be a total money saver but you cannot nor should you ever expect them to last long. always be prepared to mcguyver it, to keep it alive....or just order more cheap replacements periodically (what I am doing...sometimes you land on a light that really does it all for very lo bucks)


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## Belse (Apr 16, 2013)

Has anybody tried this one? At least it looks interesting but how the quality is i don`t know...

New Generation XM L2 X2 CREE LED Bike Bicycle Light Headlight Cycling 5000LM | eBay


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Belse said:


> Has anybody tried this one? At least it looks interesting but how the quality is i don`t know...
> 
> New Generation XM L2 X2 CREE LED Bike Bicycle Light Headlight Cycling 5000LM | eBay


Here are some threads on this light:
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...e-post-info-link-review-link-here-907838.html
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/new-2x-xml-2-lightmalls-914896.html


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## MojoRisin (Feb 20, 2014)

Just want to share the results on my Chinese Roulette Game. Placed an order on: Waterproof 2300LM 2X CREE XM L U2 LED Bicycle Light Rotatable Bike Light & 8.4V 4400mAh Rechargeable Battery Pack & Charger-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com Got a totally different thing.

Did not get the Yinding (as described), but another one from SecurityIng. Did not test it yet on the trails but it does look good. Neutral White indeed; 10 stepless mode and CE certification. Was afraid I would have to pay more when shipping it to Portugal, but did not because it was sent from Netherlands apparently and because it had CE all over the package. I don't have much to say right now, so please take a look at the pictures.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I'd unscrew the mount and see if it's sealed under there. It isn't the model shown on alibaba with the front screws and the cable exiting separately with what looks like a waterproof fitting. The lightmalls clone had a barely water resistant (if at all) fitting that held the mount and cable.


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## MojoRisin (Feb 20, 2014)

I'm not home right now, but will definitely open it up (also because I'll be using vancbiker's GoPro adapter). I'm just waiting for some other parts and the SS X2 before buying it from him...


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## spankone (Aug 31, 2011)

My yinding looks ok although the ano is scratched and it's missing orings to help keep the water out. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## spankone (Aug 31, 2011)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Smoke&Lasers (Feb 22, 2014)

Hi all I like to make my Yinding more of a spotlight as it on my lid. I looked at DX not that I like using them at Lens. 

I don't know what size of plastic bits are I have in unit. Anyone changed got a link please.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I'm not sure what the size is, but I would check out LED DNA. TIP - Use coupon code *BLF15* for 15% off your order. (I've purchased some of the XM-L optics which are currently $0.40/ea (not the $1.00 ones). Of course if these optics aren't the right size then this info is no good to you.

-Garry


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## robs31 (Sep 2, 2009)

This is the one you want for a spot. You have to remove the white plastic bit for them to fit. I have bought and used the 10, 45 and 60 degree lenses from there and they work great to customize your beam pattern.

10 Degree 21mm Reflector Collimator LED Lens For Cree XML XM-L LED - LEDDNA


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I have a little project going on for which I will be taking comparison photos of different optics with a single XM-L2 and posting over at BLF. I can PM you the link when I get it posted. I do think the 10degree ones are what you want. And I would imagine somebody has posted beamshots comparing the different optics here on MTBR somewhere. 
-Garry


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Found a great home for my Yinding....my road bike! Works great. Now that it is dark when I leave for mid-week rides.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

Anyone compare the Yinding to the Securitylng light? Thinking about getting one of these and the Securitylng is available on Amazon for $38 with free 2 day shipping. If the performance of the Amazon light is similiar to the Yinding I'll go with that one just for the quick shipping. Also easier to return it if there's a problem.  I could care less about waterproofing. I don't ride in the rain.


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## Smoke&Lasers (Feb 22, 2014)

Garrybunk & Robs31 thanks for URL and code I now odder new lens 
mm may get another Yinding but like the look of the Ultrabright 3*Cree XM-L2 5-Mode what MK 96 posted.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

slsl123 said:


> Anyone compare the Yinding to the Securitylng light? Thinking about getting one of these and the Securitylng is available on Amazon for $38 with free 2 day shipping. If the performance of the Amazon light is similiar to the Yinding I'll go with that one just for the quick shipping. Also easier to return it if there's a problem. I could care less about waterproofing. I don't ride in the rain.


Someone above had posted on the Securitying version.


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## Trevs (Apr 1, 2012)

Ok, so I've been a long time lurker. This is my first time posting.

I've had my eye on the original Gimini Duo and Gloworm X2 for quite some time now, but have always been reluctant picking one up due to price.

So last week I stumbled across some of these clones on DX and ended up purchasing a Securitylng version off amazon for $39. Shipping was super fast (3days).

My main use will be for night skiing/snowboarding. I frequently ride in between lit runs in the trees where the snow is usually still untouched.

Everything works as expected. Although after disassembly i was a bit concerned about a few things (don't worry i wasn't expecting this to be a top notch unit, and figured it might need some tweaking )

First and foremost, I'm not to sure how long this unit will last given the poor heat management. The LED slug only really makes contact with the light body at the two screw down locations. It maybe makes a bit of contact on one side of the slug as you can see in the pictures. Ill be adding some thermal paste around the screw mounts to hopefully give it a tiny bit more heat transferability.

Second, obviously this isn't water proof and I probably wouldn't even call it water resistant. There's no O-ring in the back end and the giant open hole in the bottom where the mount attaches doesn't really help either. Ill try and find an O-ring for the back half. As for the hole on the bottom I was thinking about switching to "vancbiker's" aluminum GoPro mount possibly with some cooling fins milled into the side. Then seal it up with some silicone.

Not sure if i trust the battery or not. As you can see in the pics there is some sort of circuitry included, be it for charging or protection or both i don't know. It also looks like the individual cells may have protection as well (you can see what might look like a protection circuit on top of each cell). Either way i plan on using my 5Ah RC Lipo's with inline protection (still looking for a small circuit i can add inline).

Also, i couldn't get the power connector to fully seat. I ended up using some sandpaper to sand down the ridge a little bit. Snaps in like a charm now.

I'm quite happy with the selection of brightness modes though. Powered up, button lights up green and starts in the low brightness setting of the 3 main settings (low/med/hi). While in any one of those three brightness setting pressing and holding the button will enter into a more detailed menu with 10 brightness levels. If the light is off and you press and hold the button it will go into a steady flash mode.

I'll test the run time once i get some thermal paste.

Overall I'm quite happy for the price point. Even if it only lasts me a season or two.

On to the pics! 

(Quick shipping from amazon, packaged well)




(Main brightness selection mode. low/med/hi)


(Sub brightness menu with 10 level settings)


(Giant hole in the bottom...)


(Two small set screws that hold the back end by pressure only...)






(Thin aluminum slug for heat dissipation)




(Back of the aluminum slug. As you can see it really only makes contact on one side, and barely at that)


(The two mounting surfaces for the slug, ill try and add some thermal paste here)




(4 cell pack. 2s/2p.)


(My RC Lipo which i plan on using)


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Whoa! I literally just minutes ago took many of the same photos of my Kaidomain Duo clone! Mine is the same except that I have a different driver without the programmable modes. How much current does yours pull from the battery pack on high? Is yours an 8.4v or 4.2v version. Mine is 4.2v (threw me for a loop as I bought it head only) and won't even run on 8.4v. 

For an idea on helping with the heatsinking, you could fill begind the emitter plate and up close to the driver with JB Weld (a permanent solution) or search BudgetLightForum.com for "Reversible Potting Option for drivers" or something like that. It uses silicon carbide mixed with "duct seal". That's my choice. 

-Garry


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## Trevs (Apr 1, 2012)

Not sure about current draw yet. I'll be picking up a few supply's tomorrow (thermal paste and some new Anderson connectors). With the new connectors ill be able to connect to my existing lipo battery's as well as my inline Watt meter (reads voltage, amp draw, etc). I'm quite interested in finding out what the current draw is, i have a feeling that they are under powered. If they are using Cree XM-L die's they should be pulling close to 3amp's each...

4.2v? That seams a bit odd. Each LED is rated for 3amp's @ 3.1V

Can you post some of those pics you took?


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## Trevs (Apr 1, 2012)

And thanks for the info on the reverse potting. Sounds like it might be a good option considering how poorly these LED's a set inside the housing.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Trevs said:


> Not sure about current draw yet. I'll be picking up a few supply's tomorrow (thermal paste and some new Anderson connectors). With the new connectors ill be able to connect to my existing lipo battery's as well as my inline Watt meter (reads voltage, amp draw, etc). I'm quite interested in finding out what the current draw is, i have a feeling that they are under powered. If they are using Cree XM-L die's they should be pulling close to 3amp's each...
> 
> *4.2v? That seams a bit odd. Each LED is rated for 3amp's @ 3.1V*
> 
> Can you post some of those pics you took?


Actually, it is not that odd. It just means that his emitters are arranged in a parallel configuration. Your Securitying® lamp is likely using a board arranged in series. This is one of the reasons though that you have to read all the product descriptions when buying stuff from the Chinese web sites. If they don't list the battery or power requirements you have to send them an email to ask. While doing that you might ask them how the leds are configured as well. It can't hurt to ask, particularly if you are considering modding the lamp.

Since you mentioned being interested in the current draw it would be more interesting to know what current is being supplied by the driver to the emitters. You could find that out if you unsoldered one of the power wires coming off the driver and placed a multimeter ( set for DCamps ) in series. Turn the lamp on high and you will have an answer. That said I don't know why it would be important unless you plan on trying to alter the driver. While I've heard of people altering the sense resistors I'm not sure that is a good thing to do.

Anyway, I like the look of your Securitying® Duo clone lamp. I also like that it includes the variable output sub-mode for changing the mode outputs (if you choose to do that ).

A couple questions for you: How long did it take for you to get your lamp and where was it shipped from? Since you seem to have a nice camera, is there anyway you can include some outdoor beam shots?


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

I picked up the Securitying Duo clone light a couple months ago. I received mine in two days- I chose a seller that uses Amazon to fulfill the order. I think that may mean it ships from Amazons distribution center, whereever that may be. I returned it after giving it a quick test run. It throws a nice wide bright even beam with no hot spots. But when I tried to run the light on the highest brightness setting for more than 30 seconds or so the led would turn red and the light would dim. This was when riding on the road at about 15mph.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Cheap powerful compact light. Too bad about the poor tint of the LEDs (too blue-ish for optimum detail on trails), poor heat sinking, garbage batteries and very poor waterproofing. Once I heat sinked mine, used my own battery pack, waterproofed it and changed the mount it's not bad, but I would need to change the LEDs to be happier. Still, it cost peanuts.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

slsl123 said:


> I picked up the Securitying Duo clone light a couple months ago. I received mine in two days- I chose a seller that uses Amazon to fulfill the order. I think that may mean it ships from Amazons distribution center, whereever that may be. I returned it after giving it a quick test run. It throws a nice wide bright even beam with no hot spots. But when I tried to run the light on the highest brightness setting for more than 30 seconds or so the led would turn red and the light would dim. This was when riding on the road at about 15mph.


Sounds like a bad driver. Did you have a problem getting it replaced?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Cat-man-do said:


> Sounds like a bad driver. Did you have a problem getting it replaced?


Or poor heatsinking? Mine (KD) ran fine for the few minutes that I used it taking beamshots and playing around with it.

Pics will follow later when I get more time.

-Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Ok, some pics of my KD Duo/YingDing clone. As I said previously, mine internally (except driver) looks like Trevs's in post #192. My driver runs on 4.2v input. I tried 8.4v input and the battery level indicator just flashes red-green-red-green, etc. . . . light won't turn on or do anything else at all. Current draw on 4.2v battery (with thick leads, which made a big difference in output) was:

Off: 0.013A 
Low: 0.51A - 28%
Med: 1.23A - 68%
High: 1.795A - 100% (so about 0.9A +/- per LED)

Someone posted this mode change behaviour previously on MTBR, but I can't remember where and which light. When you change modes the light actually dims very slightly and then "ramps" up in brightness quickly until the next mode level is reached. Off happens instant though. Modes are: Off-Low-Med-High-Off. Press-n-hold for strobe.

TIR lenses from LED-DNA are interchangeable once removed from the white holder

Pics:













































Beamshots:

Low:









Medium:









High:









So even though I felt it was under-driven, the beam on high doesn't look so bad. I think I will still resistor mod it for a little more output and address the lack of heatsinking.

-Garry


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Garry, do you have the 10-step mode on yours? 4.2v would be of interest to me- I have a ton of good battery packs for that voltage. Link to the light on KD?
Thanks.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

No, mine is not the programmable driver (press-n-hold no matter how long from any mode goes to "strobe"). Link to the one I bought is here. The KD pics show the button on the left, but mine is on the right (like in the other colored light choices).

I'm looking for suggestions on 4.2v battery pack / holder (for my own individual cells) ideas - got any?

-Garry


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

Cat-man-do said:


> Sounds like a bad driver. Did you have a problem getting it replaced?


I didn't replace it - I just assumed it was a POS and returned it for a refund.


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

WTF with the pic size?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

garrybunk said:


> No, mine is not the programmable driver (press-n-hold no matter how long from any mode goes to "strobe"). Link to the one I bought is here. The KD pics show the button on the left, but mine is on the right (like in the other colored light choices).
> 
> I'm looking for suggestions on 4.2v battery pack / holder (for my own individual cells) ideas - got any?
> 
> -Garry


I buy 1S packs (4.2v) from Hunk Lee on eBay- I think his store is All-Battery. He makes them up with genuine panasonic 18650B 3400maH batteries and supplies good connectors. I have 1-cell, 2-cell and 4-cell versions.

I seal them in self fusing silicone tape, then armour them with heat-shrink tubing. For adventure racing I double-waterproof them with a dab of plasti-dip on the seams.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

socal_jack said:


> WTF with the pic size?


Huh? Mine? What's wrong?

-Garry


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> No, mine is not the programmable driver (press-n-hold no matter how long from any mode goes to "strobe"). Link to the one I bought is here. The KD pics show the button on the left, but mine is on the right (like in the other colored light choices).
> 
> I'm looking for suggestions on 4.2v battery pack / holder (for my own individual cells) ideas - got any?
> 
> -Garry


Garry, KD sells other lamps that use an input voltage of 4.2 volts. Those are sold using this 4-cell holder. Word of warning though, I bought a similar two cell holder to power my phone from KD. These are cheap pieces of crap. Not that they won't work but you might have a problem using better cells that take up more room. Hopefully I'm wrong about that as these are not the same as mine but at least you have an option. On the up side the holder lets you plug in your lamp and has an additional outlet for charging a phone. Note that the output current is limited to 4A on the bike output side. Anyway mine won't do any of that. Mine is just a two 18650 cell phone charger.

Option two is to get a custom battery built from Hunk Lee or buy a 4.2 volt battery from a site like BatterySpace. FWIW, KD does sell another lamp just like yours but works off of the standard 8.4 volt battery.

*edit*; BTW, judging from the photos the output doesn't look too bad for less than 1A per led. At that level I don't think you need to worry about heat sinking too much.

*edit #2*; Doh! I almost forgot, When you do beam shots across a grassy surface the result will always look better than what you see while on a darker/dirt surface. Also applies for paved surfaces as well. Just thought I needed to point that out.


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## Trevs (Apr 1, 2012)

Cat-man-do said:


> Actually, it is not that odd. It just means that his emitters are arranged in a parallel configuration. Your Securitying® lamp is likely using a board arranged in series. This is one of the reasons though that you have to read all the product descriptions when buying stuff from the Chinese web sites. If they don't list the battery or power requirements you have to send them an email to ask. While doing that you might ask them how the leds are configured as well. It can't hurt to ask, particularly if you are considering modding the lamp.
> 
> Since you mentioned being interested in the current draw it would be more interesting to know what current is being supplied by the driver to the emitters. You could find that out if you unsoldered one of the power wires coming off the driver and placed a multimeter ( set for DCamps ) in series. Turn the lamp on high and you will have an answer. That said I don't know why it would be important unless you plan on trying to alter the driver. While I've heard of people altering the sense resistors I'm not sure that is a good thing to do.
> 
> ...


Just because it's possible doesn't make it not odd.

It's odd because the original versions (Gemini Duo, Lupine Piko, Gloworm X2 as well as most other clones with two emitters that i am aware of are all in series requiring 8.4V).

I'm interested in the overall amp draw as i have a feeling the emitters are being under powered therefor not providing full brightness. Wouldn't you be interested in finding out if something you purchased wasn't performing to it's advertised potential?

And yes i will be connecting a DC amp meter in series with the emitters to determine current draw. I will also be connecting an amp meter in series with the battery and driver to see what losses are across the driver.

Shipping was discussed in my original post. Took 3 days from amazon to deliver within the USA.

No beam shots yet but its comparable to the first shot in post#88


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## Trevs (Apr 1, 2012)

Garry

Try "batteryspace". I've purchased a few batteries from them with excellent results. 

Also if you ever end up going with a 8.4v head i highly recommend "SPC Racing's" LiPo batteries. Extremely well priced and excellent quality.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Cat - I'll have a look at your link in a bit. 4A capable would be plenty for this light
About the beamshots, yeah I didn't really have the time to get my usual "wooded trail" shots. I take the open grass shots more to compare beam patterns, and then the wooded trail shots for a more realistic representation. I'll see if I can grab those wooded shots in the next couple days. 

-Garry


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Garry, about that link; Looks like the batteries come with the holder but there's no way to tell if the holder actually opens. I see no screws on front or back. Could be the outer part just slides over one end like the one I have does. I'd ask their client service before buying one. If it does slide over one end that is not a good sign. With the one I have I couldn't use it with the better Panasonic cells because the cells were too long to fit. Even with the 2600mAh Ultrafire cells that did fit the sleeve would rub against the cells ( tearing the wrapping on the cells ). They worked but I surely wouldn't want to keep removing them as doing so was a complete PITA. Hopefully these are better.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

And if it includes cells it'll be on the slower boat from China to get it! We'll see. I'm not in a rush. And if it has screws, they could only handle so many removals before wearing out. 

-Garry


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Cat-man-do said:


> Actually, it is not that odd. It just means that his emitters are arranged in a parallel configuration.


Yep, you can see the extra trace between the LEDs. This is pretty poor design unless they are under driving the LEDs. Mine doesn't get used much on hight anyway.

Anyone selling just light heads? I really like the beam and form factor but would like to mod with a decent driver.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Sorry, I think Hunk Lee's store is called FMABattery. He can do custom packs ifyou ask him, but shipping is slow from HK now as they don't like to allow Li-ions on air cargo to N.America. Worth the wait though- good packs with genuine cells.



Ofroad'bent said:


> I buy 1S packs (4.2v) from Hunk Lee on eBay- I think his store is All-Battery. He makes them up with genuine panasonic 18650B 3400maH batteries and supplies good connectors. I have 1-cell, 2-cell and 4-cell versions.
> 
> I seal them in self fusing silicone tape, then armour them with heat-shrink tubing. For adventure racing I double-waterproof them with a dab of plasti-dip on the seams.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

znomit said:


> Yep, you can see the extra trace between the LEDs. This is pretty poor design unless they are under driving the LEDs. Mine doesn't get used much on hight anyway.
> 
> Anyone selling just light heads? I really like the beam and form factor but would like to mod with a decent driver.


Yes, mine was light head only, link in post #203 above.

-Garry


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

If only they could get a system where you click to increase brightness and hold longer to decrease, rather than having to scroll all the way up to get to the low setting, and if they offered a neutral or warmer tinted light...


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## thewrightone (Nov 16, 2014)

I'm a newbie to these lights but bought one from Fasttech last season on the back of the reviews here. Unfortunately over the summer I lost the charger for it, so I'm hoping someone here might be able to give me some tips on what I need to replace it.

I've looked at the page for my original purchase and it seems the charger unit that shipped with the order was rated as below:
AC adapter: AC 100-240V / 50/60Hz input, DC 8.4V / 1000mA output, cable length 110cm 
The battery pack is a 4x18650 setup.

I've since bought a new charger online which I thought matched the above specs (though it was rated DC 9V). When I connected the charger to the battery (before connecting it to the mains) the charger LED went green, which I thought was a bit odd. Unfortunately, I then plugged it into the wall but after about 1 min there was a pop/flash and the fuse blew. So it is apparent to me that power is flowing in the wrong direction from the battery to the charger.... I went to Maplin and they tried the battery pack on their chargers but the same thing happened, with the battery lighting up the charger LED.

Really want to get the light going again for this winter without blowing something up or damaging the battery pack - so any advice would be much appreciated!


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## upstateSC-rider (Dec 25, 2003)

They're fairly cheap, buy another and then you have a spare battery and lamp.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

thewrightone said:


> Really want to get the light going again for this winter without blowing something up or damaging the battery pack - so any advice would be much appreciated!


You'll need any lithium 8.4 Volt charger with appropriate connectors, for example like this one:
SingFire EU2-85525 EU Plug Power Adapter DC5.5 x 2.5mm - Black (116cm / AC 100~240V ) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

Do not try to use anything not explicitly designed for lithium batteries, or with end charging voltage other than 8.4 Volt.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

-Archie- said:


> You'll need any lithium 8.4 Volt charger with appropriate connectors, for example like this one:
> SingFire EU2-85525 EU Plug Power Adapter DC5.5 x 2.5mm - Black (116cm / AC 100~240V ) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
> 
> Do not try to use anything not explicitly designed for lithium batteries, or with end charging voltage other than 8.4 Volt.


I would avoid DX for chargers... they plug in to mains and there is a fire risk....

Get it from a more reputable source:
Action-LED-Lights - Magicshine MJ-6012 - 1.8A Charger


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

This MagicShine charger is also powered directly from mains, and at least formerly some MS chargers were reported to catch fire.

As for DealExtreme chargers, I have plenty of them (as well as ones sourced from FastTech, LightMalls, KaiDomain, eBay etc.) and never had a problem.

IMHO, the level of safety is approximately the same for all cheap Chinese chargers, and Magicshine is no exception regardless of where you've bought it...


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## thewrightone (Nov 16, 2014)

Cheers for the prompt and comprehensive replies - looks like it was the Li-ion charger bit that I was missing.

As the original reply stated, I was tempted to just buy another light set to have a spare since they are that cheap!....... In the end though, I've gone for a replacement charger with UK plug this time around.

Hopefully it doesn't take too long to arrive and I can get some confidence back on the nighttime roads of London.


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

garrybunk said:


> Huh? Mine? What's wrong?
> 
> -Garry


They are 4000x3000 pixels, takes up 2x24" monitors wide if you have the "Wide" preference at the bottom of the page selected. Re-sized to 800x600 would be plenty. With "Fixed" selected, they appear more like 480x360


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

socal_jack said:


> They are 4000x3000 pixels, takes up 2x24" monitors wide if you have the "Wide" preference at the bottom of the page selected. Re-sized to 800x600 would be plenty. With "Fixed" selected, they appear more like 480x360


They show up small for me on the forum. Are you viewing the original? Or am I missing something with forum viewing settings?

Nevermind - I see now. "Wide" doesn't seem to display well for me, even for other's posts so I won't even use it.

I don't like to resize my original images and I don't see settings to control image display size in the editor.

-Garry


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

So I have a question about this light.

How much brighter do U all think the Glowworm X2 is. I was looking at this and thinking I would use this on the helmet w/ a 2 cell battery and just get a second 2 cell for back up. I'm planning attaching the battery to the back of the helmet or top but near the back. Would U consider the beam spot or flood.

Thx


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

garrybunk said:


> They show up small for me on the forum. Are you viewing the original? Or am I missing something with forum viewing settings?
> 
> Nevermind - I see now. "Wide" doesn't seem to display well for me, even for other's posts so I won't even use it.
> 
> ...


Unfortunately this forum doesn't have automatic resizing script. Just set your camera to take a smaller sized pic, or it alternatively it takes literally 2 seconds even in Windows Paint to resize(click the resize button, pick pixels or percentage, select amount(20% would be perfect for your photos), click OK), much preferred to ****ing up the rest of the thread. It's not like these photos are gonna win prizes. Wide is preferred especially in the Passion thread where there's some great photographers like mikesee that resize their shots perfectly.


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## Andreas H (Aug 1, 2015)

After waiting 12 days I got my new Yinding today. 
It works really nice, only the cable is too short, as I want to place the battery in a bag under my saddle. But this is no problem...
I also have 10 new Samsung 18650 2000mah cells here and now i am looking for the best (and cheapest) way to use them.
I really read a lot and found two ways:

1. Buy a battery case/battery holder for two or four cells and a charger for 18650 cells and charge them seperate.

2. Buy a lipo charger(like imax b6), some balancer leads(2s) and xt60 plugs and build five 2s packs (or one big 2s2p + 3 2s packs

I would prefer 1., if I could get this really nice battery case for 2 cells, made by Fenix. I was searching for hours, wrote to dealers, but nobody has it or a similar case for 2 cells.

Now I like the second solution, because I think the lipo charger can be used for sooo many different types and I could set the max voltage to 4.10 or 4.15V to extend the lifetime....but it would need some time to build five 2s packs. (or one 2s2p and three 2s)

What do you think?

[edit] Is it right that you have to unplug the battery otherwise the green LED shines all the time?


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## soopahfly (Dec 12, 2015)

I took the front off mine yesterday to have a nosey inside it, and the black o-ring that seals the front to the back is split and pinged off. Does anyone know the dimensions so I can order another?


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

Is it possible these XP L High Led
941-XPLAWT0000BV40E4
to incorporate in a Yinding?
Adjusts etc from power?

XML2 T6


Produktkategorie:Hochleistungs-LEDs - WeißHersteller:Cree, Inc.RoHS:







EinzelheitenBeleuchtungsfarbe:Neutral WhiteFarbtemperatur:4500 KLichtstärke:-Lichtstrom/Strahlungsleistung:280 lmFarbwiedergabe-Index - CRI:75Ansichtswinkel:125 degLinsenfarbe/Bauart:ClearIf - Durchlassstrom:700 mAVf - Durchlassspannung:2.85 VMontageart:SMD/SMTVerpackung/Gehäuse:SMD-2Serie:XMLBWTVerpackung:ReelFabrikat:Cree, Inc.Kenndaten und Eigenschaften:-Höhe:3.02 mmLED-Größe:5 mm x 5 mm x 3.02 mmLänge:5 mmLinsengröße:4.52 mmLinsenform:DomeMaximale Betriebstemperatur:-Minimale Betriebstemperatur:-Nennleistung:10 WWerkspackungsmenge:1000Handelsname:XLampTyp:XLamp XM-L2 LEDsVr - Sperrspannung:5 VBreite:5 mmXP L High


Produktkategorie:Hochleistungs-LEDs - WeißHersteller:Cree, Inc.RoHS:







EinzelheitenBeleuchtungsfarbe:Neutral WhiteFarbtemperatur:4500 KLichtstärke:-Lichtstrom/Strahlungsleistung:440 lmFarbwiedergabe-Index - CRI:70Ansichtswinkel:125 degLinsenfarbe/Bauart:ClearIf - Durchlassstrom:1050 mAVf - Durchlassspannung:2.95 VMontageart:SMD/SMTVerpackung/Gehäuse:SMD-2Serie:XPLAWTVerpackung:ReelFabrikat:Cree, Inc.Kenndaten und Eigenschaften:-Höhe:2.68 mmLED-Größe:3.45 mm x 3.45 mm x 2.68 mmLänge:3.45 mmLinsengröße:3.45 mmLinsenform:DomeMaximale Betriebstemperatur:+ 85 CMinimale Betriebstemperatur:-Nennleistung:-Werkspackungsmenge:500Handelsname:XLampTyp:XLamp XP-L LEDsVr - Sperrspannung:5 VBreite:3.45 mm 


The XML2 T6 has 700mA, the XP L 1050mA If forward current.
The XML2 T6 2.85 V, the XP L 2.95 V Vf forward voltage.

Would that fit if I let the Yinding otherwise original

Can I at XML2 T6 Led dismantle the Led and instead XPL Led mount?Or do I need another star
*[SUB][SUP]
[/SUP][/SUB]*
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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Both leds are electricaly very similar, almost the same so no fear about changing it. See the LED lighting, LEDs, power converters, RF amplifiers | Cree, Inc


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

Can I use the same star or do I need another?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Not trying to be rude but if that question has to be asked this is NOT a modification that you should be doing yourself. Without you being able to even learn about what LEDs your dealing with and what your trying to do, this will likely end up ruining your light. This stuff isn't simple plug and play. This level of modification requires knowledge of a lot more than how to solder a wire or 2. Plus there is NO REASON to simply install xp-l emitters, you gain nothing but running a little cooler. Better to just change the optics.



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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

The size of leds are different so you need apropriate PCB (star) for XP-G series of leds (3.5x3.5 mm) something like this:

Noctigon XP16 V2 Copper MCPCB (2pcs) [SKU D024] - $3.68 : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store

or simply buy already mounted:

XP-L : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Ledoman, gecco wants XP-L HI LEDs I believe: XP-L HI : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store

As Ledoman said, you need different emitter board (stars) as the XM footprint is larger than the XP footprint. Best to just buy mounted on direct-thermal path Noctigons from Int'l Outdoor Store (I'll vouch for them - Hank is a good guy even if there are the occasional shipping issues.)

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok my apologies here, the post looks COMPLETELY different form my computer than my phone. Had no idea what was going on there with the rough English on top of it. Made no sense but now I get what he's asking. I was thinking he was after the xp-l HI in some low bin so he would have lost a ton of his output.

And Garry has you covered 100% there. I know mtnelectronics ships world wide as well but Int'l Outdoor seems to have it sorted out a bit better. Prices are about the same in either location.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

garrybunk said:


> Ledoman, gecco wants XP-L HI LEDs I believe: XP-L HI : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store
> 
> As Ledoman said, you need different emitter board (stars) as the XM footprint is larger than the XP footprint. Best to just buy mounted on direct-thermal path Noctigons from Int'l Outdoor Store (I'll vouch for them - Hank is a good guy even if there are the occasional shipping issues.)
> 
> -Garry


Ok, I missed it. He was not very precise:

"The XML2 T6 has 700mA, the *XP L* 1050mA If forward current."
"Can I at XML2 T6 Led dismantle the Led and instead *XPL* Led mount?Or do I need another star"


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

Sorry for the question!
Which Led i need for Yinding and BT21, XPL or XPL High?
What is the different?
I would try the same optics with the original!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

You can't change the leds in the bt21.

You need to do research on the different leds (use google) before ordering parts or doing any changes.

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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Really no sense changing XM-L2s to XP-Ls. The XP-L HI might be worth considering IF you're looking to increase throw at the expense of less total output. 

-Garry


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

Did you from the Yinding ever something on the board made, I mean a little more current, or is the housing on limit?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Housing can't handle more than stock current. Those of us that push it harder use vancbikers gopro finned adapter mounts. Mr Mole is the expert on then, he has like 10 of them by now 

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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

How and with which components I could modulate a Gearbest neutral white Yinding the more current to the Leds comes. How would the Xml2 T6 still reasonable?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

No xml2 t6 is still worse than what is in the light.

Only upgrade for LEDs is XP-L V6

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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

The problem with trying to boost driver current in the Yinding is that it's body is too small to deal with the heat. It's already near or at or beyond its limitations now at stock current.

-Garry


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## gecco (Mar 15, 2016)

I want to miss my Yindings, Nitefighter Bt21 and BT40 times a cooler.

Since I've already changed everything on Cateye brackets and I would not want to miss them any more, but I wanted to block a cooler anyway, I came up with this idea!
Hope it is half way handsome presented.

In variant 1, only one heat conducting pad and one heat sink are required, in variant 2 a heat conducting pad is a heat sink and the longer the screw is the heat sink is high!

This looks as follows.

I could not put it on the fast in a graphic.
There are 2 possibilities.

variant 1
Yinding on top of thermal pad and heat sink.

Variant shown 2
I have times measured, with me fit 25x25x10, who wants it in all sizes and thick, hole in the middle drills big as the screw of the holder, thermal pad down to the Yinding, heat sink full to the Yinding bottom To the pad.Yinding hole and heat sink hole should be one on top of the other.From the Cateye adapter plate, fix the adapter plate to the jacks of the cooler and with longer screw the adapter plate 
through the heat sink in the Yinding hole!


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## slug3135 (Nov 5, 2013)

Just got a yinding to replace the kd version I'd been using. From what I read I thought it would be similar output but cooler. This thing is burning up hot. Typically I'll be riding in cooler weather but just testing it out stationary it gets so hot after a minute on high I can't believe it won't burn up. Is this normal or did I just lose the cheap light lottery?

I was pretty happy with gearbest's shipping, got it in under 2 weeks and the housing and waterproofing is far superior to the KD version.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

The Yinding runs significantly more current through the emitters (2.4A each IIRC), and that's why it gets hot. Getting hot is normal and a good sign (heat is being transferred). You'll need to either reserve using high for short spurts, during faster movement (i.e. much more airflow across the head), or you could resistor mod it for lower output. Vancbiker's aluminum heatsink GoPro mount is highly recommended for this light.

-Garry


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