# Pictures of Drill Press miter jigs



## Bona (Sep 15, 2005)

So I'm thinking about building a frame and the jigs I might want to have and the first one that came to mind was something to cut miters on a drill press. I'm not into Harbor Freight stuff. Does anyone have any homemade jigs that can be built with a drill press, welder and typical shop tools? I have a friend with a mill and lathe but would rather save the favors for bigger projects. 

I have two South Bend 14 drill presses, (one bench, one floor model) they date from the 50's-60's. A small horizontal bandsaw and a vertical bandsaw, a wood lathe, mig welder, several hand and bench grinders. Lots of hand tools and files. a couple of spare Destaco clamps. I just need some ideas.


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## dirtdigler (Apr 13, 2007)

Something like this?
All you need is a 1/2" hand drill apparently.


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## Blaster1200 (Feb 20, 2004)

I picked up one of those hole saw things before I started building frames. I used it for my practice tubes and the first frame, but after that, I found I could miter the tubes faster with a good file.


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## dirtdigler (Apr 13, 2007)

Yeah a good file does the job, I've done 15 frames now and thats all I'd ever use.


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## buckoW (Feb 7, 2007)

Do you guy make templates to guide you in the filing?


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## dirtdigler (Apr 13, 2007)

Me personally, I only use them for tricky areas like this, no need for them on basic tube on tube miters.


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## buckoW (Feb 7, 2007)

Thanks dirtdigler. Do you make the template with a computer?

Your bikes are sick by the way!


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## dirtdigler (Apr 13, 2007)

No computer, just used a prefitted part.

The design and building of the frames is all done by hand (bar CNC work on some aluminium parts)

Glad to hear you like the frame, people that have one really like them.

It would be great at some point to get some in to the US.


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## quietcornerrider (Jun 6, 2009)

Try tubemiter

Program for miter templates

http://www.ozhpv.org.au/shed/tubemiter.htm


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## Bona (Sep 15, 2005)

Well this changes my direction considerably. I would have guessed that a jig would be faster or more precise. Those of you that just use a file, do you really mean just a file or do you use a flap disk or something to get close.

What types of files are best for mitering? I have many flat files but only a few round ones. I have some 3/8-1/2 woodworking files and some small fine cut chainsaw files. I don't think I have seen a larger diameter fine cut round file. Am I looking for a half round smooth cut file like on this page?

http://www.grainger.com/1/3/round-file


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## themanmonkey (Nov 1, 2005)

Read the forum FAQ and check the archives of the framebuilders listserve at bikelist.org then comeback and ask your questions. Use of files has been hashed and rehashed at both of these places.

Now if folks want to post some pics of drill-press mounted mitering set-ups please do. If you're going to do it on a drill press Bringheli has a nice maintube mitering set up for about $300.


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## unterhausen (Sep 28, 2008)

Bona said:


> What types of files are best for mitering? I have many flat files but only a few round ones. I have some 3/8-1/2 woodworking files and some small fine cut chainsaw files. I don't think I have seen a larger diameter fine cut round file. Am I looking for a half round smooth cut file like on this page?


You're looking for a half-round bastard cut file in the radius of your tube. It's worth it to have a couple of sizes. MSC has Grobet, think you want "swiss" pattern in those.


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## dirtdigler (Apr 13, 2007)

Check this out for some ideas 




It's not exactly how I do it but pretty close.


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## Smudgemo (Nov 30, 2005)

I prefer the Tube Coping Calculator from Metal Geek. It gives parallel lines at 90* around the tube which helps to keep the template straight and the miters aligned on each end. Unless you want to spend time building fixtures, you'll be building a frame sooner with a pattern, a hacksaw to rough in the openings and some files to clean them up.


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## Bona (Sep 15, 2005)

Excellent link to the Metal Geek tube coping calculator.

What wall thickness setting do you use? If I'm picturing this correctly, if you cut the coping square to the surface of the tube, the mating cut is actually on the inside diameter. If you are using a file to refine the cut then it seems like the wall thickness wouldn't matter.


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## Smudgemo (Nov 30, 2005)

Just enter the thickness of the tube that you are using. I don't know how much the pattern changes based on that figure, but the pattern only gets you most of the way there. I finish with a file looking for gaps and measuring the angle and squareness. If things go off track, tape the pattern back on and re-mark the profile. Unless you are fitting the top tube's second miter, there is usually more than enough tube available for correcting errors.

Buy some inexpensive tube of any kind and practice. You won't be out much money, and you can always build a fixture for your drill press later.


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## merk (Jan 12, 2004)

Put this together last night. Works like a charm.


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## themanmonkey (Nov 1, 2005)

merk said:


> Put this together last night. Works like a charm.
> https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2427/4048949051_32a7e9a765_b.jpg


Looks great. I actually designed something almost exactly like that until someone else talked me out of using 80/20. I'm going to have to look back into that project. What''s the press and what's the H.P.?


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## jay_ntwr (Feb 15, 2008)

Bona said:


> Excellent link to the Metal Geek tube coping calculator.
> 
> What wall thickness setting do you use? If I'm picturing this correctly, if you cut the coping square to the surface of the tube, the mating cut is actually on the inside diameter. If you are using a file to refine the cut then it seems like the wall thickness wouldn't matter.


Bona, any time you want to practice miters, let me know. I've got tubing you can cut up and the tube blocks and files. They'll give me something to practice weld. But yes, all I used on my miters (and you saw how close they were) were files, a vice, and tube blocks that I made in the garage. Oh, and the tubemiter.exe program at first. After a while, I found that I could just sketch the miter on with a sharpie and get it dialed in quicker than cutting out the paper miter, taping it on, etc.


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## Bona (Sep 15, 2005)

I appreciate the offer. I fractured four ribs in a night riding mishap last Monday night so I can't do anything real physical for a few more weeks. I ordered a few tubes to play with and some C-04 brazing rod so as soon as I am able I will be making lots of miters and fillets before committing to the frame.

I went down to Gold Metal Recycling (I 45, just South of Dallas, one of the few scrap yards that I know of that you can roam at your own risk) a few days ago and found some flat 6061 4"x1/2" aluminum plate and almost virgin 80/20 extruded aluminum to make a fixture from (both were $2/lb). I know that a wood fixture would work for my first frame but it is kind of fun to work with metal and I always like a good excuse to go to Golds. It was all I could do to carry the stuff up front to weigh so it will have to sit in a pile on my garage floor for a few more weeks.


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## jay_ntwr (Feb 15, 2008)

Bona said:


> I appreciate the offer. I fractured four ribs in a night riding mishap last Monday night so I can't do anything real physical for a few more weeks. I ordered a few tubes to play with and some C-04 brazing rod so as soon as I am able I will be making lots of miters and fillets before committing to the frame.
> 
> I went down to Gold Metal Recycling (I 45, just South of Dallas, one of the few scrap yards that I know of that you can roam at your own risk) a few days ago and found some flat 6061 4"x1/2" aluminum plate and almost virgin 80/20 extruded aluminum to make a fixture from (both were $2/lb). I know that a wood fixture would work for my first frame but it is kind of fun to work with metal and I always like a good excuse to go to Golds. It was all I could do to carry the stuff up front to weigh so it will have to sit in a pile on my garage floor for a few more weeks.


Hey, next time you go there, let me know. I need plenty of aluminum for all kinds of things. I had no idea there was a place like this in existence.

I hope this crash wasn't 'cause of your unconventional bike fit 

But seriously, and back on topic, offer stands. So many folks have been so helpful in getting me started on my first frame that I'd happily pay that forward. As far as files, MSC Direct has them. I'd like a $200 more worth of files, but for $100, you can get all that you just have to have.


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## Bona (Sep 15, 2005)

Talk to me Friday afternoon. I could be talked into going down there Saturday morning. I always find something I could use someday. Anyone else near Dallas is welcome as well. There is yard in Fort Worth that is friendly to shoppers as well but it is very small compared to Golds.


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## bee (Apr 7, 2008)

I heard that using these types of miter jigs aren't good on thin-walled steels because of the chatter and possibility to rip off a chunk of metal screwing up the miter itself. Does this method work ok for aluminum or carbon tubes?


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## themanmonkey (Nov 1, 2005)

bee said:


> I heard that using these types of miter jigs aren't good on thin-walled steels because of the chatter and possibility to rip off a chunk of metal screwing up the miter itself. Does this method work ok for aluminum or carbon tubes?


Do you mean drill-press mitering set-ups? I used to miter 0.028" wall stuff on a drill-press. It all has to do with how rigid the press is and the material holding device is. A mill is just a really rigid drill-press when used for mitering. Aluminum and carbon should be fine to miter on a drill-press too if the above criteria are right and you choose the right cutter.


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## merk (Jan 12, 2004)

themanmonkey said:


> Looks great. I actually designed something almost exactly like that until someone else talked me out of using 80/20. I'm going to have to look back into that project. What''s the press and what's the H.P.?


The press is a cheap 12" Ryobi with a 5/8" chuck added. Not sure of the HP. It is set at the slowest it will go which is still 280rpm.


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## merk (Jan 12, 2004)

themanmonkey said:


> Do you mean drill-press mitering set-ups? I used to miter 0.028" wall stuff on a drill-press. It all has to do with how rigid the press is and the material holding device is. A mill is just a really rigid drill-press when used for mitering. Aluminum and carbon should be fine to miter on a drill-press too if the above criteria are right and you choose the right cutter.


With my ghetto setup I could cut .6mm tubes feeding the cutter oh so slowly and using ample amounts of cutting fluid. I did braze on a gusset to help prevent tear out.

Keeping this on topic... Here is the part of the fixture used to hold the stays.


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