# How to safely clean mud off fork stantions



## DrBlalock (Nov 29, 2007)

So I took my brand new GF Cobia out today for its first ride and some of the trails were quite muddy. There was mud getting caked up around the stantions on my front fork which I wasnt too happy about and now I'm waiting until tomorrow when it all dries and I can clean it off. However, I don't want to damage the seals in the fork in any way when cleaning the mud off. Are there any products that can be used on the stantions to clean them or is a simple damp rag ok?

Thanks for all of your help and advice guys!

- Rick


----------



## rkj__ (Feb 29, 2004)

I recommend some water and a soft bristled brush, or a rag. Just be sure to wipe the dirt off, and not grind it in.


----------



## nnn (Feb 1, 2005)

The mud should also come off fairly easily if the stancions are properly lubed/waxed beforehand.


----------



## bstyle74 (May 8, 2005)

any towel or old t-shirt should get the mud off. if you have mud/dirt between the lowers where it is hard to get, just thread the towel between and pull it through... that'll clean the seals really well too. you just shouldn't use chemicals or direct water hose.


----------



## ljsmith (Oct 26, 2007)

Also get some lizard skins fork boots. They work pretty well. Fork boots were removed from forks purely to make them look cooler, but if you want a fork to last you need to put something on to keep the muck out.


----------



## rkj__ (Feb 29, 2004)

ljsmith said:


> Also get some lizard skins fork boots. They work pretty well. Fork boots were removed from forks purely to make them look cooler, but if you want a fork to last you need to put something on to keep the muck out.


i don't think that is necessary.


----------



## miketrek6500 (Aug 3, 2007)

rkj__ said:


> i don't think that is necessary.


i agree.. i never clean out my fork and its still fine. The Seal of the fork should be good enough not to worry about anything getting inside. Look at car suspension same thing you don't see covers on them and they last years.


----------



## chinaman (Jun 8, 2007)

I just use a cloth with soapy water and just wipe the muck off ... then once dried I just oil them again for the next ride ... i do that after each ride ...


----------



## miketrek6500 (Aug 3, 2007)

if i do decide to clean my fork what oil should i use... i have several types of oil but not specify for fork use


----------



## DrBlalock (Nov 29, 2007)

miketrek6500 said:


> if i do decide to clean my fork what oil should i use... i have several types of oil but not specify for fork use


I was just about to ask the same question! Any recommendations?

Thanks for the advice guys!!


----------



## InvictaS1 (Mar 19, 2005)

you can just put a little chain lube or bike grease on the stanchions. i actually occasionally spray some pedro;s silicon bike polish on my stanchions to keep them nice and smooth.


----------



## ljsmith (Oct 26, 2007)

miketrek6500 said:


> Look at car suspension same thing you don't see covers on them and they last years.


Is there a recommended maintenance interval on a car shock like there is on a suspension fork? No. You don't have to lube, change the oil or replace seals in a car shock. That is not a valid comparison. Suspension forks do wear out and dirt is the main contribitor. Do you need boots? No you don't need them. It will just mean if you want your fork to last you will need to do a lot more maintenance to it, or you can replace it every few years. So many people I have rode with have had blown seals, I have never had this problem.


----------



## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

DrBlalock said:


> I was just about to ask the same question! Any recommendations?
> 
> Thanks for the advice guys!!


The best is finish line stanchion lube, (Google EnduroSeal)

Then a high quality teflon lube (chain lube).

BTW I use a cloth and soapy water. Don't spray a water jet at the seal.


----------



## dan0 (Oct 12, 2005)

ljsmith said:


> Also get some lizard skins fork boots. They work pretty well. Fork boots were removed from forks purely to make them look cooler, but if you want a fork to last you need to put something on to keep the muck out.


not true
what do you base this on?
ever notice that car shocks dont have boots? is that for looks too?

wash the bike including the stancions, its easier to do before the mud dries

also 3rd sticky is all about cleaning your bike
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=211266


----------



## snaky69 (Mar 8, 2005)

InvictaS1 said:


> you can just put a little chain lube or bike grease on the stanchions. i actually occasionally spray some pedro;s silicon bike polish on my stanchions to keep them nice and smooth.


*NO CHAIN LUBE ON A FORK, EVER!!!!*. It's about the worst thing you can do to a fork to keep the stanchions lubed. It'll just make dirt stick to it and grind the stanchions down.

If you want to grease it, use a teflon based grease, rub some around the dust seals seals, cycle the fork a dozen times(and put some back into it so the whole stanchion gets coated) and wipe it all off.

As far as the original poster's question goes: find a dry clean rag, and wipe UP the fork, not down it. It's all you need.


----------



## ljsmith (Oct 26, 2007)

dan0 said:


> not true
> what do you base this on?
> ever notice that car shocks dont have boots? is that for looks too?
> 
> ...


What do I base this on?

1. The car shock comparison is ridiculous. Do you work on cars? How often have you had to lube, change the oil and replace seals on a car shock. They are desgined better. And actually a lot of rear shocks do in fact have boots because they are more likely to get mud on them.

2. Suspension forks require maintenance. You have to change the oil and lube them. Why do you think this is? Its because of dirt. Oil is a mix of hydrocarbons with some additives to reduce foaming, oxidation etc. It is extemely stable and only requires changing if it is dirty. You change engine oil because blowby gasses contaminate it. Under normal circumstances you do not change transmission oil, shock oil, or differential oil because it is not exposed to a lot of contaminants. IAnd if you do change these fluids it is on an extemely extended basis i.e. 100,000 miles or more. If a shock needs its oil to be changed it is because dirt gets into it, there is nothing else that could contaminate the oil in a fork. Every shock manufacturer recommends changing the oil, so that tells me that dirt IS getting past the seals.

3. People don't run boots because they either don't like the looks or they don't want the extra weight. Neither of these reasons mean that you don't need them. It just means you don't WANT them. Its up to you. If you are more concerned about how your bike looks then how it preforms than that is up to you. It is funny that many people are willing to put ugly chain guards on their bike to protect a non-mechanical part of the bike, but tell them to use fork boots and they get all worked up. Tell me why people are willing to protect the paint on their frame and not their fork? Its not like the boots are expensive, even if you doubt their usefulness there really is no reason not to run them except you think they are ugly or weigh too much. And really how much does a piece of neoprene weight.


----------



## dan0 (Oct 12, 2005)

ljsmith said:


> What do I base this on?
> 
> 1. The car shock comparison is ridiculous. Do you work on cars? How often have you had to lube, change the oil and replace seals on a car shock. They are desgined better. And actually a lot of rear shocks do in fact have boots because they are more likely to get mud on them.
> 
> ...


1
yes I do work on cars , very rarely do you see boots on shocks, usually on aftermarket high performance types, Do you reallly think a $20 oem shock is better made?
let me ask you something, which gets more abuse a shock under a car, driven 7 days a week through mud, snow, rain  & car washes or a mountain bike fork

2 wrong, while some dirt may enter if the seals are bad, condensation and friction are the 
main reason for oil contamination in a fork as well as loss from small amounts getting past the seals on the stancions

3 people dont use boots because a) they dont need them, b) they can cause more problems than theyre worth and c) they are a hassle, whenever you want to check the sag, clean the stancions, etc.

Ive had quite a few bikes , as well as 20 - 25 people I personally ride with, none have boots, none have had a single problem. 
go to you local lbs and ask them how many forks they have seen with fork issues that would have been helped by boots
as far as your analogy to keeping the paint protected but not the fork? when I wash my bike I wash the whole bike fork and all, so what is not being taken care of


----------



## zephyr11 (Nov 8, 2007)

^^^^^

thats what i usually do, wipe it upwards, and then i use cottonbuds to clean wats ever is hard to reach. but sometimes i sponge it with water too, when its too dirty.


----------



## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

snaky69 said:


> *NO CHAIN LUBE ON A FORK, EVER!!!!*. It's about the worst thing you can do to a fork to keep the stanchions lubed. It'll just make dirt stick to it and grind the stanchions down.
> 
> If you want to grease it, use a teflon based grease, rub some around the dust seals seals, cycle the fork a dozen times(and put some back into it so the whole stanchion gets coated) and wipe it all off.
> 
> As far as the original poster's question goes: find a dry clean rag, and wipe UP the fork, not down it. It's all you need.


Chain lube works fine (teflon based), just wipe off the excess, stanchion lube is best you only put on a couple of drops.

Grease doesn't work well at all, tried it and wore out the seals quickly, went to chain lube no probs.

Then tried the stanchion lube, seals last way longer, and you get rid of stichion.


----------



## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I use a dry rag to wipe dirt off my stanchions. Honestly don't know what the big deal y'all are having here. I never lube my stanchions with anything. I'm just doing a fork and rear shock rebuild this winter to change seals and re-lube the internals...not because I'm having any problems, just to do some preventive maintenance. My fork works JUST FINE and I've never done any of that to it. Never blown any seals, either.


----------



## DrBlalock (Nov 29, 2007)

My bottle of chain lube (although it doesnt say chain lube on the bottle nor any specific part on the bike) is Tri-Flow superior lubricant. It says on the bottle "formulated with P.T.F.E." or polytetraflouroethylene... in layman's terms, teflon.

According to the extremely reliable sources at wikipedia.org, teflon is a great lubricant and has chemical properties that resist sticking. Check it out:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene


----------



## BKnight (Mar 27, 2005)

high pressure air! just kidding, once you do what ever one else has said, make sure to oil and cycle the fork to get any more dirt out, also take a small zip tie and clean out the seals


----------



## chinaman (Jun 8, 2007)

I guess what ever lube you use they need to be heavy enough to provide the seals a coating to prevent wear, and light enough that muck do not stick to them too easily ... but with all types of grease and oil, won't mud or soil or even dust kicked up by following behind someone else on a completely dry run, stick to them no matter what?

But on a dry day ... won't it be better if you wipe off all the oil/grease on the stanchions as dust will then not settle on them as much ... but then you risk the chance of damaging your seals ...

That is my logic for cleaning them after every ride ... and just using a light oil and wipe off the excess ...


----------



## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

The forks move in and out of an oil bath, the seals remove 99 % of this oil from the stanchions on every stroke, but there is always a little bit left, and you can see the cust build up on a fork after a days's ride.

The teflon is meant to lubricate the dry side of the seal, with a very thin film of Teflon, this reduces stiction of the rubber to the stanchion, especially wtih new seals.

This also prevents those seals from wearing out as quickly.

So little bit if the proper stuff really helps in the long run for me.

Cause the seals last longer, with little stiction and the less dust collects on the stanchions then without it.


----------



## motormouth (Mar 25, 2008)

Too funny. I just had to get in on this one.

Weak arguments for the boots. Boots trap dirt. Motorcycles don't use them, nor do any other performance suspension. If they were so important excavators and cranes would all have them on their hydraulic rams. Teflon based chainlube? What's the liquid carrier made of? Surely not fork friendly oil. More likely solvent. If there's any petroleum products in the mix, it can eat plastic parts and seals. My buddy used triflow on his Fox 40 seals and he would get two days on the hill before they leaked. Generally, fork internals wear out and tastes change long before upper fork tubes lose their coating. Wash your bike, pop the dust seals and clean under them once in awhile and change the oil once or twice a year.


----------



## ggnarl (Mar 13, 2008)

dont get upset if your bike gets dirty, be happy. dont use q tips ,zip ties or upwards motion. get a rag an wipe the stuff off. lube? only if your bike sits for months without being ridden, will the seals dry out up top. relax.


----------



## Qatarbhoy (Jun 13, 2008)

Hmm,,, okay, glad we cleared that one up.

I'm more confused than before. FWIW I usually get a soapy sponge and wipe off any muck on the stanchions then rinse off. I'm put off using chain lube after the comments about it eating away rubber but I know some sort of lube is a good idea. Does anyone have a definitive answer?

At the risk of hijacking the debate, I've noticed a small amount of oil (and associated crust) on one of my fork's stanchions after each ride, is this normal (as someone mentioned above) or a cause-for-concern leak?


----------



## ggnarl (Mar 13, 2008)

it is not a problem unless it starts running down the legs. by washing with soap you make your bike look nice and shiny but will cause premature wear due to water intrusion on bearings. I only wash with soap before a race or if my bike gets greasy. just wiping with a towel is sufficient. or a old sock, washcloth watever. your stanchions are anodized, which is an excellent bearing surface. it is extremely hard and will outlast the seals. seals do wear out, usualy from the internal bearings getting worn and allowing play to stretch the seals. All of this is easily replaceable and not a concern. I would replace he bearings at the same time as the seals to get the fork back to new condition.


----------



## motormouth (Mar 25, 2008)

Yeah, I should have mentioned that I let my muddy bike dry and then clean it off after it dries. Why force lube out and dirt in with a bunch of water when you can brush off the crusties the next day. A bit of oil on the stanchions is normal on ,most forks. Clean under the dust seals or at least inspect that area to be sure nothing is contaminated. If water can get past your oil seals and inside your fork, then oil wold be forced out of your lowers, past the seals when you rode the bike and the oil would look milky when you changed it. I've never seen this on any of my forks, even ones with totally worn seals. Fork lowers use bushings not bearings, btw. Seals wear out, mostly from the friction created from the stanchions moving up and down a billion times a year, relying on less than fresh oil than bushing wear would affect them. Washing your bike is not going to wreck your fork, but it will rinse away all your lube from every conceivable nook and cranny. Ever hopped on your ride and had soapy water come out of the fork seals? Come on, seals actually work. You don 't need to worry about any of these details, just ride your bike and keep an eye on the most susceptible areas to wear and damage.

Don't overthink what designers have already figured out for you, just ride.


----------



## Qatarbhoy (Jun 13, 2008)

woof g-gnarl, thanks dawg for the reassurance. the bike's due for a service after the summer so i'll get the fork checked out and see if the seals and bearings need replacing.


----------



## garberfc (Jul 13, 2005)

*Why use water at all?*

I think that using water will only help wash the fine / abrasive dirt particles into / beyond the seals.

I suggest letting the mud dry and then wipe off in an upward motion, or flip the bike over and use a dry bristle brush.


----------



## theletterj (Jul 23, 2008)

Is it ever safe to use WD-40 on the stanchions?


----------



## Whacked (Sep 29, 2008)

in '91 I bought my first suspension fork. I immediately put on the rubber boots. Used Finish Line teflon chain lube on the stanchions.
Rode the bike hard in all kinds of conditions for 4 years. Changed the oil twice in that time.
For cleaning, spray with water, wipe down, re-lube.
Bike was stored in garage for 6 years, then unfortunately was stored outside for 6 years (all but 1 year under a tarp).
Aside from a bit of rust and a broken bolt (tearing it apart to clean and repair), the bike and fork is fine.
In taking off the boot I was worried it would be pitted and rusted underneath. Not so, smooth, shiny, seals in good condition and still a good layer of lube everywhere.

Bottom line, I think the shock boots are worth the very small price and minor hassle.


----------



## Combatcm (Nov 15, 2005)

I personally wouldnt use chain lube that has wax. or any chain lube for that matter. I use silicone spray and just spray them down. Then spray the seals to blast out dirt. It's safe for the seals.


----------



## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

What about using shock oil to lube the stanchions?


----------



## dan0 (Oct 12, 2005)

garberfc said:


> I think that using water will only help wash the fine / abrasive dirt particles into / beyond the seals.
> 
> I suggest letting the mud dry and then wipe off in an upward motion, or flip the bike over and use a dry bristle brush.


not true
water and grease dont mix, they repel as long as you're not using a pressure washerand the bearings are properly greased you wont have a problem
rubbing bristles over grit will scratch the stancions and force the grit into the seals


----------



## drevil540 (Sep 28, 2011)

*cleaning dust seals*

An old piece of film negative works great for cleaning out the dust seals.


----------



## In-Yo-Grill (Jul 19, 2011)

Boy, if this post doesn't confuse you then you just weren't paying attention.


----------

