# Converting from triple to a double chain ring setup, HELP PLEASE



## Yeti575togo (Oct 3, 2016)

I have a 2012 full suspension YETI 575:
I ride mainly XC and a starting to get more aggressive and trying to keep up with more experienced riders. I need to replace my chain rings (from 44,36,24)and was thinking about converting to a double chain ring set. A few questions, do I need a bashgaurd and/or a chain stay set up? is this highly recommended or can I go without? Also, do I need to change my rear cog set up (currently a 36-11)? I realize regardless I will have to play around with both my front and rear derailleur to get things right, which is not a problem. I was thinking of the 38 teeth and 26 teeth chain ring set by Raceface (Turbine) . Also, would I need to replace my rear derailleur? I believe I currently have a long cage. I will do what I need to do for this conversion but for now want to convert with least amount of work/cost that will still run fine. I cant wait to get back riding on the trails. 

Thanks so much.


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## gigolfer (Jan 15, 2016)

You can put the 26-38 in the inner 2 spots on your current triple setup and put a bashguard in place of your 44 tooth chainring. You'll also need a new front derailleur/shifter...OR

You can put a 30 or 32 tooth single NW chainring in your middle position and lose the front derailleur all together. I'm not sure if this setup will provide the range you need though, but it's the most simple conversion you can do and it's clean and mechanically very simple. If you needed a wider range than the 11-36, there are several pretty affordable 11-42 options out there that work with your long cage RD.


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## pressed001 (Jan 16, 2014)

The most economical way would be to install the new crank, adjust the front derailleur limits/cable tension so that your 3x shifter will now only shift between the two gears, and shorten your chain a bit. There may be a risk here of your chain falling in because of the 3x derailleur, but I am not sure. I would play it safe and install a 2x front derailleur. Your rear setup can stay the same.

I never ride with a bash guard or chain stay on my bikes. I believe that the long cage derailleur will help keep tension on the chain, helping it stay in place. However, again, regarding the 3x front mech, could be an issue.


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## leeboh (Aug 5, 2011)

The other posters are over thinking it. Don't need new cranks, just new chainrings. Will the 26 -36 be low enough for you? Here in New England, everyone runs a bashguard. Lots of rock and logs in your area? Just adjust the front der. limit screws to get 2 shifts. Same rear der will work. Might need to shorten the chain some. What is it about your current setup you don't like?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

"need" and "would work best if you did" are two different things here.

As for the "need" list, you need two new chainrings of the sizes you want to match the BCD of your current crank. You can run a bash or not, whether you want or not. If no bash, you'll probably need some shorter chainring bolts or spacers so your current bolts will work (since you are removing the big chainring). Shorten your current chain.

My wife's 2x bike is set up this way. It works fine. She has a fancy XTR M980 crankset that has fancy chainring bolt caps for a clean look and so she doesn't need spacers or a bash.

You don't NEED to do anything else unless there's something additional you want. A 2x specific crankset will change the chainline a little bit, which may or may not be what you want. It also changes bash options, since you don't have the 3rd chainring position to use for one. Switching to a medium cage rear derailleur will tighten up the chain a bit and help cut down on chain drops. The shorter cage also is less for sticks and stuff to snag on. But it's not necessary. If you go with a 2x specific crank, you may need a 2x specific rear derailleur because of the differing chainline. The gap between the rings you want is the same as that from your current small-middle, so that won't necessarily cause any problems with your current 3x FD. A bigger gap between rings would DEFINITELY require going to a 2x FD (for example, if you wanted a 38-24 ring setup).

Keeping your current cassette is the order of the day if you want to stay 10spd. I think you'd have to go 11spd if you wanted to do a 2x setup with a wider range cassette.

I have a taco bash on my mtb, and I'm pleased with it. I was willing to sacrifice my big ring when I was 3x because I hardly used it. So it WAS my bash. But now I am 1x and definitely don't want to sacrifice my chainring or my chain on hits. The taco bash is independent of my crank, because it mounts to the ISCG-05 mounts on my frame. I could get one with a guide if I wanted, but I don't need it.


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## rangeriderdave (Aug 29, 2008)

The big question id what do you hope to gain by going to a 2 by? You could just set the limit screw on the F der. and call it good.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Looking at your current setup I'm seeing less than optimal gearing. No 3x should have a 36 middle ring. 32 or33 is much more usable- a lot like a single if you stay in the middle ring for most of your riding. 
Your bike is listed as having a 32 or 33 depending on Race or Enduro version. Something got changed for the worse.
I'd swap in a 33 and since it's 10 speed 11-36 is the largest cassette in XT.
A double is junk. You just have to shift more often. It's better to go to a single with an 11 speed rear. But this'll cost you for a new shifter, cassette(11-40,42 or 46), derailleur and chain.


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## MarcusBrody (Apr 1, 2014)

leeboh said:


> The other posters are over thinking it. Don't need new cranks, just new chainrings. Will the 26 -36 be low enough for you? Here in New England, everyone runs a bashguard. Lots of rock and logs in your area? Just adjust the front der. limit screws to get 2 shifts. Same rear der will work. Might need to shorten the chain some. What is it about your current setup you don't like?


This is what I've done. Bashguard in place of the big ring. Limit screws set so it only hits the small and middle ring. Works well enough for me. I'm sure that the chainline might be better on a dedicated set up, but I can't miss what I've never had.

I'd echo the other folks and go for a 24-32 or something similar unless you're riding a lot of flat roads. I stay on my 32 ring the vast majority of the time save for really steep/slow stuff and when I get really tired.


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## Yeti575togo (Oct 3, 2016)

leeboh said:


> The other posters are over thinking it. Don't need new cranks, just new chainrings. Will the 26 -36 be low enough for you? Here in New England, everyone runs a bashguard. Lots of rock and logs in your area? Just adjust the front der. limit screws to get 2 shifts. Same rear der will work. Might need to shorten the chain some. What is it about your current setup you don't like?


What chainrings would you use? I ride with alot of rocks and roots. Not too many logs, some drops and small jumps. Well i need new chainrings bad and was excited to just try a new set up, was thinking 2×10 or even 1×10.


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## Yeti575togo (Oct 3, 2016)

Harold said:


> "need" and "would work best if you did" are two different things here.
> 
> As for the "need" list, you need two new chainrings of the sizes you want to match the BCD of your current crank. You can run a bash or not, whether you want or not. If no bash, you'll probably need some shorter chainring bolts or spacers so your current bolts will work (since you are removing the big chainring). Shorten your current chain.
> 
> ...


My chain rings need replacing bad anyways. I don't really use my big chain ring much anyways so was thinking about saving the weight. What new set up would you use? What size ( how many teeth ) would you use and i think i might try the bash gaurd. Thanks


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## Yeti575togo (Oct 3, 2016)

Well i need new chain rings bad anyways and was thinking about saving the weight as i rarely use the larger chain ring anyways. And just to try something new i guess. Would this set up be ok, what size chainrings would you use. Im mainly XC


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Yeti575togo said:


> My chain rings need replacing bad anyways. I don't really use my big chain ring much anyways so was thinking about saving the weight. What new set up would you use? What size ( how many teeth ) would you use and i think i might try the bash gaurd. Thanks


What I choose really has little bearing on what you should use.

Use a gear calculator and figure out the gear range you need to be happy. Install drivetrain components that make you happy, and go ride.

I like 1x drivetrains because I like having one shifter. I like that it declutters my handlebars and makes more room for a dropper lever. I do not need super tall gears, but I like having plenty of low range. So I gear the 1x on my mtb pretty low. I did the math to figure out how low.

The fact that I use a 28t chainring on a 1x should mean nothing to you for your application. You are a different rider than I am, with a very different bike.


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## rangeriderdave (Aug 29, 2008)

No one can answer those questions with any certainess .Questions to ask yourself ,are how much time you spend in the granny,how much in the middle, where would you like to spend most of the time?If you just drop the big and replace it with a guard ,you are not going to save much, if any weight.


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## Yeti575togo (Oct 3, 2016)

Maybe i do have a 32 middle ring oops mistyped or miscounted. What about a 1x10? And why is less teeth on a chainring more usable? Thanks


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## Yeti575togo (Oct 3, 2016)

Yeah im not sure about what is good for what. Like more or less teeth on my chainrings. A gear calculator sounds like a good idea i didn't know about that


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## Yeti575togo (Oct 3, 2016)

Sounds like most people are saying go 1x11 which would be exspensive since id have to get a new shifter, cog, and a NW chainring. That sounds ideal honestly but im not going to spend that kind of money quite yet. I just paid 1500 for the bike. The chainrings are shot where my gears slip so i need new chainrings. 

I might just go 1x10 (getting a new 11-42 rear cog replacing my 11-36?) with a 30 or 32 teeth NW chainring. Is this a decent range for up and downhill? This might be worth playing with until i go a legit 1x11 with a chain guide in a few seasons


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## terrasmak (Jun 14, 2011)

Buy one if these https://www.bbgbashguard.com install a 32 to 34 narrow wide chainring from raceface ring, and remove the front derailer. Simple and done, it's exactly what I have done on both of my bikes


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

+1 for BBG, but if you use the granny they're pretty inexpensive and weigh almost nothing. I've got a 24/32/bash setup with the 11-36 and it handles most everything I need for some pretty aggressive XC riding.


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## Yeti575togo (Oct 3, 2016)

Thanks bra


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## Yeti575togo (Oct 3, 2016)

+1 for BBG ? I keep going back and forth worth 2 x 10 or 1x10


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

Yeti575togo said:


> +1 for BBG ? I keep going back and forth worth 2 x 10 or 1x10


Post above mine BBG bashguards if you go that route. They're rock solid and relatively inexpensive. The other current option if you don't mind white is a Race Face on Jenson for like $6 plus shipping.


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## Yeti575togo (Oct 3, 2016)

I decided to go 2 x 10. Im getting 24, 38T raceface chainrings in the front with a 38T BBG bashgaurd. Im hoping to leave everything else and adjust the derailleur and go ride with no shifting issues.


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## terrasmak (Jun 14, 2011)

Yeti575togo said:


> I decided to go 2 x 10. Im getting 24, 38T raceface chainrings in the front with a 38T BBG bashgaurd. Im hoping to leave everything else and adjust the derailleur and go ride with no shifting issues.


Just install the BBG and ride, see if you even need more gear for now. I would almost bet you will be perfectly fine


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