# wanna go IGH, so much info here, confused. Where do I start???



## Bry03cobra (Feb 20, 2004)

Hello
I bought a singlespeed 29er last year with the intent of riding off road again. I have been a roadie/triathlete for the last 5-6 years after 10+ off road. I rode her a couple times, and REALLY missed having gears. Then signed up for another Ironman...to much swim/road bike/run to mtb. My IM is november, after that want to start riding off road again. Before then my bike will be geared. Its a 09 Redline monocog flight 29er. either gonna go 1x9 with a der/cassette or IGH. Really like the idea of IGH but confused on what I will need, cant seem to find a list. 
Sorry for the long lead up, Here are the questions I have

1)Which route should I go? Shimano Alfine or SRAM
2)What width hub is needed for my bike (RL monocog flight29)
3)Anyone have a complete list of whats needed?
4)Can I use a adapter on the shimano hub for 6 bolt rotor? or just use a shimano rotor?(Avid BB7's)
5)What would be the best cog to use? (have a 32t crank)

Thanks
Bryan


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## Leopold Porkstacker (Apr 21, 2010)

Sheldon Brown has some good information on going the Shimano route:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/shimano-nexus.html

That is all I know.


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## Moozh (Jan 20, 2010)

Hmm lets see..
I would go for the Shimano Alfine, ready built wheels with the hubs are available (I suspect the wheels wont be the lightest..32 or 36 spoke as per the alfine hub, probably 32 spoke). (about $250) (check this thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=611144)

For horizontal (track dropouts) you will need the silver (6R) (right side) and the white (6L) (left side) NTW (non-turning washer), (about $10)

Alfine small parts kit (about $20)

Alfine 'rapid fire' shifter (about $40)

Alfine 20T cog (about $10)

cable (cheap)

zip ties (even cheaper)

32T crank should be fine.

EDIT: Alfine hub takes centerlock rotor, adapters are avalable if you wish to use a 6-bolt rotor.

I am in a somewhat similar situation, I'm about to build a new bike and have decided to go IGH, my frame is a SS and I have just completed the homework on the bits I will need to get the Alfine setup and am paying forward what I've have just discovered onto you.

Hope it helps..


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## Leopold Porkstacker (Apr 21, 2010)

Moozh said:


> Alfine hub takes whatever 6-bolt rotor you wish.


Just make sure you avoid those "Problem Solver" 6-bolt disc adaptors-it would warp my Avid rotor no matter what. I ended up just going with a Shimano unit (which worked fine with the Avid BB7 caliper after a bit of adjustment of the caliper mounting position).


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## W7WJ (Jul 30, 2010)

I just (almost) finished putting the Alfine on the SE Stout I bought last week from Jenson's. I've got the BB7's on and have the wheel/Alfine hub combo from AEBike.com. My Alfine hub requires a Shimano rotor with a lockring (no bolts). I've got the shifter and the cable on the bike and the wheel ready to go. I'm going to take it out for a spin as a SS tomorrow and then put the hub on when I get back.

You may want to hold off till after Interbike, and see if the U.S. release of the new 11 speed Alfine is announced. It has a wider gearing range but I've heard it may cost close to 5 bills just for the hub.

BTW, I went with an 18t cog and 32t chainring that gives me about 30 gear inches at the bottom end.


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

I have a Alfine on an SE Stout. It's simple and fairly cheap. As others have said, look for a deal on pre-built wheel if that suits you. If you buy the hub separately, the non-turn washers usually come with the small part kit, and the hub requires a centrelock rotor if you plan to run discs (not the 6-bolt rotors mentioned above).

Make sure that the gear range suits your needs. It's about 300% and this is significantly less that the standard 3x27. The new 11 speed is about 400%, while the rohloff speedhub is over 500%. 

Good luck

Tim


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## junktrunk (Apr 17, 2010)

I am thinking of an Alfine setup, but my questions are still the durability on demanding, technical uphills and downhills, along with the ratios. Rohloff is just too outdated and expensive to even bother with.


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## finch2 (Nov 13, 2009)

not sure why you say rohloff is outdated, but I agree with expensive. The alfine 11 must be the closest thing to it at the moment.


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## junktrunk (Apr 17, 2010)

Outdated= heavy, an updated version has been in the pipeline for at least a half-decade (admitting that the version that's out is outdated). Fitment is not completely universal, drag, etc. And expensive. It's great for high end touring bikes, I guess, but in mtb applications, especially FS, it's a bit of a gamble.


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## Surly29 (Jun 8, 2009)

Bry03cobra said:


> 4)Can I use a adapter on the shimano hub for 6 bolt rotor? or just use a shimano rotor?(Avid BB7's)
> 5)What would be the best cog to use? (have a 32t crank)


I used a problem solver adapter for 6-bolt rotors with BB7's.
http://problemsolversbike.com/index.php/products/center_lock_rotor_adapter
Worked alright, but after a while the rotor started rocking back and forth and it was alittle annoying. Never noticed a problem with performance, but I ended up buying a centerlock rotor.

edit: Couldn't do the math.....


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## TimT (Jan 1, 2004)

To answer your questions
1. Alfine IMHO more durable 
2. 135mm 
3. the hub, antiturn washers to fit your drop outs, the shifter (comes with cable and cable end), cog, and cassette driver. 
4. yes you can use an adaptor. I found that the DT Swiss adaptor does not distort the rotor the Problem Solvers did.
5. not sure on that as its pretty much up to the trails you ride on the most. Sheldon Browns web site has a very nice gear calculator for that.


Tim


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## Val Garou (Mar 12, 2008)

junktrunk said:


> Outdated= heavy, an updated version has been in the pipeline for at least a half-decade (admitting that the version that's out is outdated). Fitment is not completely universal, drag, etc. And expensive. It's great for high end touring bikes, I guess, but in mtb applications, especially FS, it's a bit of a gamble.


How can something be "outdated" by something that doesn't exist yet?


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## Val Garou (Mar 12, 2008)

TimT said:


> To answer your questions
> 
> 4. yes you can use an adaptor. I found that the DT Swiss adaptor does not distort the rotor the Problem Solvers did.


I'm curious about this. What's the advantage of the adapters? I think you can get a Shimano rotor for right around the same price as the adapter. Why not just go with a centerlock disc and be done with it?


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## junktrunk (Apr 17, 2010)

Because it's heavy and clunky, and better suited to legions of european commuters than its adaptation to a mountain bike.

And why would Rohloff be working on an updated model if the old one was perfect? You know, really heavy, clunky, and the competition is coming out with models with more refined fitments and shifting?

Oh, speaking of which, entire lines are being fitted with Alfine now, with no Rohloff option in Germany. They are losing their market share by thinking they are the ****, and even their own country's bike companies are ditching them.

Oh, now with the anti-turn washers on the Alfine, does that negate the need for a torque arm?


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## Schmucker (Aug 23, 2007)

I prefer to just use a centerlock rotor. The Shimano ones are all good with the BB7 and the cheap ones are a bit heavy but they work better than my Cleansweeps and they're more durable.


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## TimT (Jan 1, 2004)

Val Garou said:


> I'm curious about this. What's the advantage of the adapters? I think you can get a Shimano rotor for right around the same price as the adapter. Why not just go with a centerlock disc and be done with it?


Its the only hub I own with a centerlock. Besides I wanted the rotors to match. Call it vanity. and I have something like 20 rotors laying around that I can put on if needed not a single center lock.

Tim


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

junktrunk said:


> Oh, now with the anti-turn washers on the Alfine, does that negate the need for a torque arm?


Yes


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## junktrunk (Apr 17, 2010)

Good, so maybe the possibility of broken stays is lowered.


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## Bry03cobra (Feb 20, 2004)

Thanks for all the replys. This is my bike project for the fall. Probably have her up and rollin early November after my Ironman. Will post pics once she is done. One last question though...
Should I buy a hub and have it built into my WTB Trail29 rim(hub price around $220+ build) or buy built wheel, Velocity Dyad for $250?
Thanks
Bryan


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## Val Garou (Mar 12, 2008)

TimT said:


> Its the only hub I own with a centerlock. Besides I wanted the rotors to match. Call it vanity. and I have something like 20 rotors laying around that I can put on if needed not a single center lock.
> 
> Tim


Right on; makes sense to me.


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## finch2 (Nov 13, 2009)

junktrunk said:


> Because it's heavy and clunky, and better suited to legions of european commuters than its adaptation to a mountain bike.
> 
> And why would Rohloff be working on an updated model if the old one was perfect? You know, really heavy, clunky, and the competition is coming out with models with more refined fitments and shifting?
> 
> ...


I agree with a coupe of points, btu I think the term "outdated" should just be replaced with "faulted". Even so, the faults are shared by other hubs. The stand out fault is price. Weight wise? It must be the lightest ont he market if you consider the gear spread and number. Clunky? Not mine. Mine has been faultless smooth...shifting wise. Works brilliantly on a mtb, especially for technical spots. Not for racers though. My feeling is that if Rohloff actually make the lighter hub they will need to make sure THAT isn't outdated by the other stuff that will come out soon. I'll be glad to see other options. I also think that it is quite likely that the new lighter hub will not be as durable, and marketed fo the road, and the speedhub still kept in production.


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## Moozh (Jan 20, 2010)

Question for someone...

Does the Shimano brake rotor work well with say...Avid Elixir R brakes? Warping issues, fade issues?


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## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

junktrunk said:


> And why would Rohloff be working on an updated model if the old one was perfect? You know, really heavy, clunky, and the competition is coming out with models with more refined fitments and shifting?


6 years ago , I bought a Speedhub , since then I changed the oil twice , that's 50$ + the initial 1200$ , so in 6 years of Intense use it cost me 1250$

Now on another bike (wich sees a lot less KM) , I just received my new Nexus Redband (Alfine internal).
It's my third one in 6 years.
The cost of these + spokes + labour , I'm getting close to 1K$ to use Shimano's IGH instead of a Rohloff.
At that rate , when I'll have to change the Shimano a fourth time in 2-3 years ( and I say WHEN and not IF ) , it's gonna cost me more than if I would have bought a Speedhub in the first place. 
Not a good move to go with Shimano.

That is IME

( And BTW , the redband weights 2100g with all bits WO shifter/cable included , brand new )


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## dstepper (Feb 28, 2004)

Bry03cobra said:


> Should I buy a hub and have it built into my WTB Trail29 rim(hub price around $220+ build) or buy built wheel, Velocity Dyad for $250?
> Thanks
> Bryan


I built up a Alfine wheel and saved the SS wheel so I could still use the bike as a SS when I wanted to.

Dean


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## rdhfreethought (Aug 12, 2006)

I use my Alfine with a centerlock 8" rotor with Saint calipers. 2.5 seasons at whistler and PNW freeride riding, and no issues so far. I would think it would work great with elixirs, probably better since the avid rotors are some of the worst in the industry imo.

To OP: As much as I love the Alfine, are you sure this is a good fit for you? I am also training for Ironman Cozumel (Nov 2010). Most roadie/Tri guys want efficiency. You would be better suited with a 2x10 or 3x9. Lighter weight and more efficient. I love a nice straight chainline, and hate breaking chains. Too many borken chains on the tour divide a few years ago, is what prompted me to try IGH. I love it, but IMO it is probably better suited to DH trails (and FR/AM) than XC ones. I would imagine a roadie doing XC rides would only get 2-3 seasons out of the hub before issues developed (assuming doing a decent about of riding 100mi, 8-10hrs a week or so)

It is a well designed and well made hub. It does have limited uses, and shifting is a bit better than a standard hub, just make sure you value the advantages, and are prepared for the disadvantages.


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## LukeSPOOK (Aug 27, 2007)

Bry03cobra said:


> Thanks for all the replys. This is my bike project for the fall. Probably have her up and rollin early November after my Ironman. Will post pics once she is done. One last question though...
> Should I buy a hub and have it built into my WTB Trail29 rim(hub price around $220+ build) or buy built wheel, Velocity Dyad for $250?
> Thanks
> Bryan


Don't forget to check what chainline your crank/chainring is.
I fitted a bottom bracket with less width to bring the chainline inwards, to be closer to the Alfine chainline.
You could also use spacers to bring the chainring further inwards.


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