# Redline monocog with Alfine or other IGH?



## 1971tch (Jun 19, 2008)

Can this be done.. I have no experience but thought it would be a good idea.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

1971tch said:


> Can this be done.. I have no experience but thought it would be a good idea.


Any MTB can get an IGH installed.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WrvbH0p4U1jvxQ39g_owRQ


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## dr.welby (Jan 6, 2004)

1971tch said:


> Can this be done.. I have no experience but thought it would be a good idea.


Just be wary of the rear spacing. Early Monocogs used 110mm rear spacing, which would make running a 135mm rear hub like the Alfine difficult.


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## jmpg (Sep 17, 2008)

Here's mine, works great...Excpet I find the drop a little soft and the serated teeth of the Non-turn washers have gouged a few grooves down the drop outs.

I have also found 32-20 to be a little highly geared. My LBS had an old Sturmey Archer of BMX cog that I have found great. It get's gear ratio right down.

I would also hunt down the MKS track bike chain tugs just to stop things slipping, however this isn't mandatory.

The Alfine is almost as tuff as the frame. I also believe the drop-out/track end style is perfect for the non-turn washers on the Alfine. I have found the Alfine problematic in my Singular Swift frame and a Voodoo Dambala i had. The Monocog is straight forward.

The bike and the hub can stand high temperatures (the last photo was taken about 3:00pm on a 38-40 degrees celcius day). In fact the high temperature seem to let the hub spin really well, but there is often an oily weeping from the cones and other seals. Nothing really.


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## honkonbobo (Nov 18, 2006)

jmpg said:


> ... I have found the Alfine problematic in my Singular Swift frame and a Voodoo Dambala i had. The Monocog is straight forward.


what issues did you have with the singular swift? i am about to attempt to build one up with an alfine 11.


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## Andy R (Nov 26, 2008)

honkonbobo said:


> what issues did you have with the singular swift? i am about to attempt to build one up with an alfine 11.


Sorry for jumping in here, but I have an Alfine equipped Singular Hummingbird, which presumably uses the same dropouts as the Swift.
I reckon the problem is that there isn't a very long parallel area to the dropout to let the non-rotation washers accurately locate, and so wheel fitting with consistent tension and location of the cable attachment becomes a bit of a pain.

I solved the problem by modifying two anti-rotation washers with extended sections to *exactly* fit the frame. Like this.....


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## honkonbobo (Nov 18, 2006)

Andy R said:


> Sorry for jumping in here, but I have an Alfine equipped Singular Hummingbird, which presumably uses the same dropouts as the Swift.
> I reckon the problem is that there isn't a very long parallel area to the dropout to let the non-rotation washers accurately locate, and so wheel fitting with consistent tension and location of the cable attachment becomes a bit of a pain.
> 
> I solved the problem by modifying two anti-rotation washers with extended sections to *exactly* fit the frame. Like this.....


dont apologize... i really appreciate you jumping in on this. anyone who can help me get this set up would be doing me a huge favor. did you weld those "tails" onto a washer or where did you get those?

the swift should be showing up literally any day now so i dont actually have it in my hands yet to figure out if and how the washers are gonna fit and/or work but i will soon.


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## Andy R (Nov 26, 2008)

I welded those extra locators on to a pair of anti-rotation washers - the fact that they're kind of triangular makes wheel refitting really easy, they just self-locate and once they're right home in the dropouts there is absolutely no radial or for and aft movement. Previously I found that, because there was some slop between the washers and the dropout slot, tightening the drive side nut would cause the whole spindle/washer to rotate clockwise, effectively moving the wheel forwards slightly and losing a bit of tension. The workaround this was to remember to tighten the non drive side first, of course.

So, I'm sure that you'll be able to set the Alfine up in the Swift frame just fine - it just needs a little more care than I have to apply now.


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## jmpg (Sep 17, 2008)

Andy R said:


> I welded those extra locators on to a pair of anti-rotation washers - the fact that they're kind of triangular makes wheel refitting really easy, they just self-locate and once they're right home in the dropouts there is absolutely no radial or for and aft movement. Previously I found that, because there was some slop between the washers and the dropout slot, tightening the drive side nut would cause the whole spindle/washer to rotate clockwise, effectively moving the wheel forwards slightly and losing a bit of tension. The workaround this was to remember to tighten the non drive side first, of course.
> 
> So, I'm sure that you'll be able to set the Alfine up in the Swift frame just fine - it just needs a little more care than I have to apply now.


Yahoo the answer lies here. Brevity, aside this is really good solution that I hadn't even considered. It also will solve a bunch of the issues I had with this style of drop out. I was curious (perhaps we start another thread) about the non-drive side solution. i was going to have a frame builder add an extension to the non-drive side - similar to the derailer hanger - to stop the rotational issue. This solution would fix the axle slop that occurs because of the flat axle.


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## honkonbobo (Nov 18, 2006)

Andy R said:


> I welded those extra locators on to a pair of anti-rotation washers - the fact that they're kind of triangular makes wheel refitting really easy, they just self-locate and once they're right home in the dropouts there is absolutely no radial or for and aft movement. Previously I found that, because there was some slop between the washers and the dropout slot, tightening the drive side nut would cause the whole spindle/washer to rotate clockwise, effectively moving the wheel forwards slightly and losing a bit of tension. The workaround this was to remember to tighten the non drive side first, of course.
> 
> So, I'm sure that you'll be able to set the Alfine up in the Swift frame just fine - it just needs a little more care than I have to apply now.


well i got it setup and waited to report til i had a couple rides on it and it seems to be fine. i dont have a pic at the moment but i do have to say the non rotation washers arent making a ton of contact with the dropouts. i would feel a little safer seeing more metal on metal there but i torqued the bolts and went on my way and so far so good.


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