# Walk behind dozer



## no nancies (Jan 18, 2005)

Ready to get one. Don't need a Sweeko sized machine. Is a Toro Dingo type walk behind manufactured with a 6 way or angle blade? Don't need bucket probably. We have a project coming up in terrain that would work out well with this type machinery. In the woods of Kitsap County WA.


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## mnwfrank (Feb 2, 2006)

I haven't used a Dingo, but I have used a Ditch Witch 650 and a Bobcat MT 52. If you can get a Ditch Witch locally, they are the way to go. Much more maneuverable then the Bobcat and the controls are nicer. Finding a 6 way blade to rent might be difficult, at least it is here in the Mid-Atlantic.


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## schaarschmidt (Aug 20, 2007)

The Dingo and the Ditch Witch 650 cut the same width path. Given that, I would suggest the 650. It has a lot more power than the Dingo and has a small platform you can stand on, which you will really appreciate after a couple of hours of use. 

In the alternative you may wish to look at an RC30. Same amount of horse power as the 650 and approximately the same length. The difference is you ride in this machine meaning you can put in a few more hours of use before feeling fatigued.


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## rfeather (Aug 22, 2006)

*Ditch witch, I was just about to ask*

I was just about to ask how the ditch witch works. What are its limits? How big of a root stops it? How does it do on uphills, downhills, side slopes? It's meant for making a norrow trench for laying wire or water pipe, so do you have to make more than one pass for a 18 wide trail? Does it shake you to death when you use it? I obviously know nothing about it, so even the most basic info would be appreciated.
Rich


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## dburatti (Feb 14, 2004)

rfeather said:


> I was just about to ask how the ditch witch works. What are its limits? How big of a root stops it? How does it do on uphills, downhills, side slopes? It's meant for making a norrow trench for laying wire or water pipe, so do you have to make more than one pass for a 18 wide trail? Does it shake you to death when you use it? I obviously know nothing about it, so even the most basic info would be appreciated.
> Rich


I have experience on both on the DW 500 and the more powerful 650 as well as the Bobcat, Toro, and Vermeer. My favorite is the DW with the 650 over the 500. The little 3-cylinder diesel in the 650 rocks! The Dingo and Vermeer controls I don't like, and they don't have as much power.

Roots _can_ be an issue with either (DW) machine and are oftentimes easier to remove with a pulaski.

Uphill can be difficult to drive on the 650 depending on steepness and looseness b/c you're riding on the machine and have to hold on but also have to _drive_ it. It can be done just with a little difficulty. Downhill driving is much easier though you have to make sure your blade doesn't auger into the ground...or, if your blade is too high, want to tip the machine forward. Cross slopes above 12-15% I don't recommend.

Depending on many factors like cross slope, rock & root content, soil type, prep work, one pass could work to cut an 18" tread. A good habit to get into when machine cutting trail is to make a final pass back-dragging the tread with the blade in the float position. This cuts down on some of the more laborious broadcasting.

I haven't had any walk behind or stand-on mini skid steer shake me while driving it.

Also, if you search for like threads in this forum, you'll find more info.

D


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## indytrekracer (Feb 13, 2004)

You may consider attending this conference and hitting the mechanized trail builiding session. Instructions from the masters and a chance to see the equipment in action. 

http://www.trailbuilders.org/conference/Mechanized.html


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## cjohnson (Jul 14, 2004)

*re: shaking*

When creating trail, the trencher attachment is not being used on the ditch witch, a blade is. Is that why you asked about multiple passes and shaking?


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## Walt Dizzy (Aug 18, 2003)

*Answers*



rfeather said:


> What are its limits? How big of a root stops it? How does it do on uphills, downhills, side slopes? It's meant for making a norrow trench for laying wire or water pipe, so do you have to make more than one pass for a 18 wide trail? Does it shake you to death when you use it? I obviously know nothing about it, so even the most basic info would be appreciated.
> Rich


Roots: No walk behind dozer will have enough weight and power to push a blade through roots bigger than a couple of inches. Allow some time with the machine to develop your technique. The trick is to snag the root with the blade while lifting it out of the dirt. Then it can be snapped easily. Having a second person chopping the stubs helps speed the work.

Multi passes: You are confusing the trenching tool with using a blade. A multi-axis power adjust blade is a necessity for trail construction. Even with the correct attachment and good dirt to work, it will be necessary to make several passes.

Shaking: You're not going fast enough for vibration to be a problem.

Trail width: The blade is wider than 18", but don't let that worry you. It will magically become narrow single track as the track gets ridden. No kidding.

Slopes: Don't even think of trying to cut trail driving uphill. It just won't work.

Side slopes: That's why you need the multi-axis blade. You can set the blade to near-level even as the tracks follow the slope.

Keep the blade low when driving on slopes, it helps keep the center of gravity low.\

Walt


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## rfeather (Aug 22, 2006)

Ahah, I told y'all I didn't know a thing about using a ditch witch for trails. I think a blade might work best in areas that have deeper rooted trees than we have up in northern UP MI.


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## dmonbike (Jun 26, 2006)

I rode the UP last summer and the blade will do well there. It's not too hard to keep something handy to cut out the big roots. The biggest issue when prying is traction. If you're not careful you can spin the tracks and dig yourself a hole. 
The PTBA conference that was referenced will be a good resource for learning, or you might be able to volunteer with a member in your area to learn some tricks.


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