# Cane Creek Head Set 40ZS44 replacement



## spleeft (May 2, 2017)

Tall Boy 2 R ( aluminum ) 
I decided to service head set ( first time for bike and me way overdue ). Mine seems to have way more parts than all the videos I watched !
I though I could service/clean bearings but it doesn't look they are designed for that, doesn't matter though, they look trashed/ rusty. 
How do I know exactly what model to replace with , and is there an upgrade I can consider?
*40.ZS44 Short Cover*









this seems to be the one , tall cover doesn't look like mine.
































Thanks any advice/ help !


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## Sparkman999 (Dec 19, 2017)

Looks like your bearing has come apart and some of your parts are spacers on top of the headset which are not included. That’s why you have more parts. The one you have selected should be fine. The Cane Creek website has a good headset selector. You have to measure the headtube and steerer tube and use those values in the selector.


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## RonSonic (Jan 8, 2005)

You don't need to replace the whole headset, just the bearings. Sparkman's right, they fell apart. https://www.canecreek.com/store/headsets/parts-tools

And yes, you can upgrade to a higher series CC bearing. They're interchangeable. This "40.ZS44" describes the fork, headtube style and size for picking alternatives if you decide to replace the whole thing. All brands are pretty well standardized on those measurements.

Cane Creek is good stuff. I'd say use 40 series bearings and get rolling again.


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## spleeft (May 2, 2017)

Thanks for the replies/help. 
So it looks like I can order bearings only, and use all the other original parts, correct? 
As I learn to work on my bike I just buy the tools required, so I just ordered a digital caliper from Park to measure the bearings so I order the right ones. Is it possible to know which ones I need from those pics?


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Looks like the bearing that came apart is the lower one and based on the photos and color of the parts the lower bearing looks like a Cane Creek 10 series 52mm/1.5". If you want to absolutely sure, there should be some part numbers printed around the outside edge of the bearing that you can lookup to get a match.

I had a 10 series lower bearing come apart like that with one of my bikes and although it was possible to reassemble it, there seemed to be too much play in the bearing. My thinking is the 10 series bearings are not the greatest quality and would recommend replacing it with the next step up 40 series bearing.

Here's one source: Cane Creek 40 Series Replacement Bearing | Jenson USA (pick the 52mm Black Oxide Steel Bearing 1.5")


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## spleeft (May 2, 2017)

Thanks 'wick.
I came across this
Cane Creek 40 Series Headset Bearing Kit | Jenson USA

What does the "36x45" indicate? 








I did learn that the green seal means series 10 and blue means series 40....weird how my came with one of each?!


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

spleeft said:


> Thanks 'wick.
> I came across this
> Cane Creek 40 Series Headset Bearing Kit | Jenson USA
> 
> ...


Might be ID on the bearings. Not sure.

If you look here

https://www.canecreek.com/store/headsets/parts-tools/40-series-bearing

the larger bearings (47 and 52mm) are paired with the 45. The smaller ones don't have a corresponding number, but I'm going to guess it's an ID.

As for why SC would use a 10 series on the lower cup, my guess is cost. I'm also going to bet you've got a plastic split ring for the "crown race" on your fork. There's a lot of cost difference there, and those plastic ones have a tendency to fall apart after awhile. Might as well buy one of these, too.

https://www.canecreek.com/store/headsets/parts-tools/40-series-crown-race

There are 3 110 headsets in my stable. The bearings are extremely well-sealed on them. In addition to the seals on the cartridge bearings, there are external seals on the crown race and the top cover so I can pack the space around the bearings with grease, too. They're great. One of them is 7yrs old, but the others are newer. And one Juliana with a "40" series headset that's less than a year old. I'm going to bet that it's setup exactly like yours. Externally, at least, it looks the same. The 40 stuff has seals that are almost as good as the 110 level headsets, so I think that the 40 crown race will help your lower bearing service life quite a bit.


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## Sparkman999 (Dec 19, 2017)

36x45 is the inner and outer chamfer on the bearings. Most are 45x45 I believe. Whatever you buy should match up with your cups. Not sure if the 110 and 40 series bearings are compatible because of the different chamfers. From what I recall I think the 110 bearings are flat, but take a look at the inner and outer races of your old ones to make sure. You may want to pick up a complete 40 series headset to make sure there’s no mismatch. 


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Sparkman999 said:


> 36x45 is the inner and outer chamfer on the bearings. Most are 45x45 I believe. Whatever you buy should match up with your cups. Not sure if the 110 and 40 series bearings are compatible because of the different chamfers. From what I recall I think the 110 bearings are flat, but take a look at the inner and outer races of your old ones to make sure. You may want to pick up a complete 40 series headset to make sure there's no mismatch.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


As I understand it, the 40 and 110 bearings are compatible. But totally get that if there actually are different chamfers, you'll want to make sure you get the right ones. Note that on the product page I linked, there's a 52mm (45x45) and another 52mm option.

If there's a question, you will probably want to call or email Cane Creek to check compatibility.


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## spleeft (May 2, 2017)

Ok , parts ordered. Will update ASAP , Hoppy New Year !


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## spleeft (May 2, 2017)

Update:
I received the new 40 series bearings and also the bottom crown race as suggested by Harold. I did have to tap it all the way done on the "stearing" tube. Everything is fine accept I'm wondering if it should look like this on the bottom bearing/race. Seems to be a small gap. Bearing is definitely seated correctly.
Thanks for all the replies and help.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

spleeft said:


> View attachment 1177906
> View attachment 1177905
> 
> Update:
> ...


My first reaction is it does not look right. I have a 40 on 2 bikes with external cups and the crown race cannot be seen on either.

Yours may be right for your bike, so don't panic. But I'd take a look at the crown race again to make sure it isn't upside down.

Maybe others here have seen it this way and can tell you that it is fine?

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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

That definitely doesn't look right. I believe you've got the crown race installed upside down as the blue seal should not be that visible.

Crown race should be installed with the flat surface down and the inner tapered lip facing up.

Like this:


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## spleeft (May 2, 2017)

kwarwick said:


> That definitely doesn't look right. I believe you've got the crown race installed upside down as the blue seal should not be that visible.
> 
> Crown race should be installed with the flat surface down and the inner tapered lip facing up.
> 
> ...


Ok, and does the bearing sit on that, or is there part that goes between the bearing and crown race? ( there is a flat washer/seal piece that goes in between bearing and CR on the top......-pic of the order it came apart in in OP at beginning of thread) 
Thanks again for reply.help


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

spleeft said:


> Ok, and does the bearing sit on that, or is there part that goes between the bearing and crown race?


The bearing sits directly on top of the crown race. The bearing has an inner beveled surface that matches up with the taper on the crown race so that everything is held centered once assembled. Make sure you have the bearing oriented with the outer beveled edge facing up and the inner bevel facing down.


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## spleeft (May 2, 2017)

kwarwick said:


> The bearing sits directly on top of the crown race. The bearing has an inner beveled surface that matches up with the taper on the crown race so that everything is held centered once assembled. Make sure you have the bearing oriented with the outer beveled edge facing up and the inner bevel facing down.


 Ya I think I know what your describing and that's how I have it assembled. Its really the only way the bearing turns freely. I will pull it apart and check again. ( at work now ) .


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I don't have any 40 crown races, like this, but like I've said, I've got 3 110 crown races that are similar. I cannot see the rubber seal on ANY of them, but on a couple of bikes I can see some of the metal bits of the crown race (they are 1 1/8" straight steerer rigid fork bikes with EC34 headset dimensions). The one bike with a tapered steerer I have with one (ZS40/56 cups), I can't see any parts of the crown race.

I see 3 likely possibilities why it doesn't work. What's happening here is that the chamfers don't match up between the bearing and the race (note that we discussed that CC bearings offer 2 chamfer options). This could be because you bought bearings and race that won't ever match, it could be because the bearings are upside down, or you installed the crown race upside down. Looking at kwarwick's pictures compared to yours, I do think this is a likely scenario. The rubber seal should not rest directly on the fork crown. That rubber seal is there to keep water and dirt out of the headset assembly, so it should be sealing against the lower headset cup. Drop your fork and take a picture of your crown race then.


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## spleeft (May 2, 2017)

Harold said:


> I don't have any 40 crown races, like this, but like I've said, I've got 3 110 crown races that are similar. I cannot see the rubber seal on ANY of them, but on a couple of bikes I can see some of the metal bits of the crown race (they are 1 1/8" straight steerer rigid fork bikes with EC34 headset dimensions). The one bike with a tapered steerer I have with one (ZS40/56 cups), I can't see any parts of the crown race.
> 
> I see 3 likely possibilities why it doesn't work. What's happening here is that the chamfers don't match up between the bearing and the race (note that we discussed that CC bearings offer 2 chamfer options). This could be because you bought bearings and race that won't ever match, it could be because the bearings are upside down, or you installed the crown race upside down. Looking at kwarwick's pictures compared to yours, I do think this is a likely scenario. The rubber seal should not rest directly on the fork crown. That rubber seal is there to keep water and dirt out of the headset assembly, so it should be sealing against the lower headset cup. Drop your fork and take a picture of your crown race then.


Will do , pics to follow.
Thanks for insight/help !


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## spleeft (May 2, 2017)

The Crown Race was upside down......good learning experience. Thanks for all the help!


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

spleeft said:


> The Crown Race was upside down......good learning experience. Thanks for all the help!
> View attachment 1179017


glad you got it sorted. but looks like you also did a good job buggering up the crown race seat on your fork. That may result in the race not sitting flush. You can have that portion of the fork faced by a shop to repair it, if it is a problem, fwiw.


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## spleeft (May 2, 2017)

Harold said:


> glad you got it sorted. but looks like you also did a good job buggering up the crown race seat on your fork. That may result in the race not sitting flush. You can have that portion of the fork faced by a shop to repair it, if it is a problem, fwiw.


Yup !, definitely did trying to get that crown race off without damaging it too much. I now know that there is a special tool for pushing the crown race onto the fork too. I used the old bearing to push it back down, lightly tapping it as even as I could. Its probably almost ruined.....live and learn ( which is good! ) 
I'm going to leave it for now and continue to use this bike as my back up to my new bike, and practice learning mechanics. I replaced the BB last week, that was easy. gonna do the shifter cable next. 
Also, You will probably see a post over in the "drive train" or "beginner" forums about upgrading the BB on my new bike.....its only been 600 miles or so and the Raceface cinch BSA has a "gritty" bearing already. Ive read through the current threads....looking at wheels Manufacturing angular bearing option....
Thanks again Harold !


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## [email protected] (Jul 3, 2017)

*Correct mounting position of the metal ring of the forty dust cup*

Hello

I disassembled the dust cup of my Forty ZS40 to clean it and I have doubts about the correct orientation of the components assembly. Especially regarding to the correct mounting side of the metal ring that has a blue seal at the end. On one side, the blue seal has a edge. On the other side, the blue seal is flat.

So, the side that is flat, is down, touching the bearing? 
Or the flat side is up.

Thanks in advance


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

The flat side faces up and holds the compression ring in place in the top cover. If you squeeze the compression ring it will close up enough for the edge to pop behind the metal ring.


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## [email protected] (Jul 3, 2017)

kwarwick said:


> The flat side faces up and holds the compression ring in place in the top cover. If you squeeze the compression ring it will close up enough for the edge to pop behind the metal ring.


Hi kwarwick,
My metal ring is out from the top cover. Do you have a pic that shows the metal ring in the correct place? 
Is it embedded or glued in the top cover?
I will have to reposition It in the correct place.
Thanks a lot!


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Take a look at this photo: https://images.immediate.co.uk/prod...antifnd-fb37db2.jpg?quality=90&resize=960,720


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## Taroroot (Nov 6, 2013)

Enduro also sells bearings for this CC. They're not very good, mine got trashed in a matter of a couple months.
My advice? Ditch the CC 40 and get a Hope or Chris King. Buy once, cry once. I've had nothing but trouble from the CC 40's that came stock on my two Yetis.


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