# Pedal problems



## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

Was starting a ride the other day. Heard a crunch from my pedal. Hmm. Looked fine. Then a couple more turns and this. Note locknut was not attached to end of axle. I put that back on. 

The manufacturer sent out new parts to rebuild as the pedals had about a month and a half of riding on them. They also included upgrade full complement bearings. 

On this pedal, The full thrust load is taken up by the tiny little bearing race. These are going to fail and when they do. Off comes the pedal. Note the locknut threads off w direction of rotation and should be reverse threaded. 

I assume others have seen something similar?

are there more burley pedal designs for clydes?

i now have a new item to check before every ride now!


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## buffalohump (Jun 6, 2019)

Have been using race face chesters and no issues. Also have used crank bros platforms and no issues. 6’6”/295 now. Was 385 when started riding


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## bingemtbr (Apr 1, 2004)

The only brand of pedals that work for me are Time ATACs. Even with the ATACs, I still will wear out / break one pedal about every 18 mos. 

Shimano and Cranksbros will last me less than a month before the spindle snaps. 

I don't have any explanation for this. It started about 20 yrs ago. I used to ride Shimano m737's, then they all just started failing (spindle snaps). I switched all my bikes to Cranksbros that spring, by mid summer they were also all failing. The ATACs are able to last much longer. 

I don't ride flats so I would imagine the RF pedals are very stout.


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

I've ridden Shimano (SPD and flats), Crank Bros (3 different styles) and Superstar Components and never had a pedal fail. All of them have small bearing races and a normally-threaded nut. I've worn them out, replaced bearings etc but never had one fail in the way you describe.


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

Thats the feedback ive gotten so far. The opposite pedal was disassembled and was fine. Obviously im a bit stronger on one side. Im hoping its just a freak occurance. But there must be a better way to take thrust loads


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## BroncoAZ (Jul 18, 2018)

I’m concerned at 6’5” and 330# that I could have pedal issues. I’m riding a Surly Pugsley that I purchased used last year, it came with some no name metal pedals that are working so far, but measure 110x95. I haven’t been riding much, but I’m hoping to change that this summer. I wear size 16 4E shoes, so I want something with a large platform. I’ve been looking at the Crankbrothers Stamp large (not sure what number to choose, but metal) or the Kona wah wah 2 alloy. The Kona specs show 120 x 118 x 13mm, the Crankbros show 114mm x 111mm. I like how the Crankbros have no max weight limit. Can anyone recommend between these two or something else?


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

You can't really generalise or take anything from the experience of others. Some people will sit down a lot, others are always standing. Some have good mechanical sympathy, others will mash their bikes into every bit of scenery in front of them. If you break pedals a lot it's probably not the pedal but your riding style. If this is the only pedal you broke it might be a one-off.


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

Mr Pig said:


> You can't really generalise or take anything from the experience of others. Some people will sit down a lot, others are always standing. Some have good mechanical sympathy, others will mash their bikes into every bit of scenery in front of them. If you break pedals a lot it's probably not the pedal but your riding style. If this is the only pedal you broke it might be a one-off.


These are good points.

I have never had a pedal fail before.

I will be checking my pedals more often now!


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## BroncoAZ (Jul 18, 2018)

I’ve been researching pedals for the past few days, here are the ones I’m considering:

Crankbrothers: I narrowed down my research to the Stamp 3 or Stamp 7. I like the idea of a 6061 body rather then plastic or cast aluminum. According to CB, the platform itself is the same size on both models, the Stamp 7 has more machining operations done so it is lighter and has a 1mm concave. The Stamp 3 has a slightly wider stance on the bike because the spindle is longer between the crank and the platform. I think I could get the concave feel from longer pins on the front and back of the Stamp 3 if needed. My current no name pedals are slightly convex but get some concave from the pin arrangement. Stamp 3 can be had for $80, Stamp 7 can be had for $100.

Kona Wah Wah 2 Aluminum: looks like a good choice, but the large inboard bearing would push my foot farther out, meaning the platform is effectively narrower by the width of the bearing, they list “platform measurement” on their site, so maybe they don’t include that bearing housing in the width. Cost $120

Shimano XT PD-M8040: $75 each with 10 pins and a 110x115 platform. Apparently concave platform and swappable pins to add to that feeling. The downside looks to be the heavier weight and thick body. 

I may end up ordering a couple different pedals from Amazon to compare them in person and just send back what I don’t want.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

BroncoAZ said:


> I like the idea of a 6061 body rather then plastic or cast aluminum.


6061 is aluminium. I've never used a plastic pedal, except on kid's bikes, but on alloy pedals I've never seen the body break. Lots of different designs used by different riders and I've yet to see the doby fail. I dare say it must happen but the axle and bearings seem to be the weak point.

I wouldn't worry about the type of alloy. Just avoid something stupidly thin and no-brand Chinese and I'm sure the body will be fine.


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## BroncoAZ (Jul 18, 2018)

Mr Pig said:


> 6061 is aluminium. I've never used a plastic pedal, except on kid's bikes, but on alloy pedals I've never seen the body break. Lots of different designs used by different riders and I've yet to see the doby fail. I dare say it must happen but the axle and bearings seem to be the weak point.
> 
> I wouldn't worry about the type of alloy. Just avoid something stupidly thin and no-brand Chinese and I'm sure the body will be fine.


Yep, thanks. I know 6061 well from another industry, billet aluminum is significantly different from cast aluminum which is why I lumped in plastic and cast aluminum together as potentially insufficient for our needs.

Cast vs. Billet

I would also think that the thinner the body the smaller the bearings, potentially resulting in shorter life because of heat and shock loading on a smaller surface area. That may not matter in the real world.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

The biggest factor in the life of the bearings seems to be the seals. Most have a decent seal on the outer bearings but you'd be surprised how many have nothing at all on the axle side. Water and dirt get in and the bearing falls to bits. 

Worth noting that although some of the more expensive pedals are serviceable, the parts are sometimes similar to the price of a decent cheaper pedal. I treat pedals as consumables. Buy decent but not crazy expensive then just bin them when they fail.


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## BroncoAZ (Jul 18, 2018)

My Stamp 3 pedals arrived today, I paid $85 for them and a M19 bike tool, so the pedals were about $60. They are significantly larger than the pedals that I had before and feel great under my feet. Time will tell if they last under my 330#, but I expect they’ll be fine.


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## BroncoAZ (Jul 18, 2018)

The Stamp 3 pedals are working well for me.


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## Daytripper.C.Dale (Aug 27, 2020)

BroncoAZ said:


> I've been researching pedals for the past few days, here are the ones I'm considering:
> 
> Crankbrothers: I narrowed down my research to the Stamp 3 or Stamp 7. I like the idea of a 6061 body rather then plastic or cast aluminum. According to CB, the platform itself is the same size on both models, the Stamp 7 has more machining operations done so it is lighter and has a 1mm concave. The Stamp 3 has a slightly wider stance on the bike because the spindle is longer between the crank and the platform. I think I could get the concave feel from longer pins on the front and back of the Stamp 3 if needed. My current no name pedals are slightly convex but get some concave from the pin arrangement. Stamp 3 can be had for $80, Stamp 7 can be had for $100.
> 
> ...


I can add some information about the Wah Wah 2 Alloy and Stamp 7 Large. I currently have both in my possession to compare.

@BroncoAZ is correct that the Wah Wah 2 Alloy is narrower than the specified width by the width of the bearing.

I wrote a detailed, if perhaps difficult to read, post in another thread: (https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=14991269)

Essentially, the usable surface area on either side is 10mm less in both length and width than specified by Kona. the usable platform size is 110mm long, by 108mm wide. The 118mm is the true width when including the bearing. So the effective platform is 108mm wide, and starts 10mm outward from the crank.

The length of the pedal is also truly 120mm. But there is only 110mm on the top surface, front to back, where it angles away at the back 10mm. Of the 110mm, 60mm of this is in front of the axle center and 50mm behind.

I like that, because I have long feet and it helps with not feeling like I am always holding myself up from falling forward.

The Stamp 7, I have not tried, and plan to return so won't be trying, at least for now. However, in a side by side comparison, the platform of the Wah Wah 2 Alloy goes farther out in front of the axle, and is about the same behind the axle as the Stamp 7. Also of note, the traction pins/screws are further spread out on the Kona.

If I get a chance, I'll try to take some side-by-side pictures with some rulers and make a write-up to share.

Sent from my BBE100-5 using Tapatalk


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## BroncoAZ (Jul 18, 2018)

I got on the bike quite a bit more this summer. The Stamp 3 have held up to my 330# great. My riding advanced from “crap what am I doing at 43” to “let’s try that single track trail” and leaving my buddy in the dust in about 4 weeks of riding every other day.


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