# Reba fine tuning



## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

For what it's worth: I had my '05 Reba SL set at 85 negative, 100 positive (I weigh 160) and rode it for a few months. This last ride I dialed up the negative to about 110 (sure loses a bunch of psi when I remove the pump!) and was amazed at the improved small-bump compliance. Much better. It now rides down in it's travel more (set at 100) but you gotta have sag, right? Both rebound and compression all the way off.


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

*Reba tuning*

Dude,

Tha sounds like an excellent suggestion - I will try it.

I weigh about the same as you (150+) but am currently running 80 pos 60 neg. Whilst the comfort seems to be there, I sometimes find it too soft, and a bit too harsh in the way it comes back after a deep rut for ex.

However, at this setting you get a lot less negative sag. FYI, running 05 Reba Team at 100mm on 03 NRS.

Like you I find that its better to ride with full fast rebound, but have been dialing it in lately to try and remedy the above issue. Re compression, I like to use about have with a couple of turns into the floodgate.

How does your fork handle small high frequency ruts - mine is rather terrible, but am told that Reba's just don't manage it in the way a Fox might...

Cheers,

P.


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## moman (Jan 25, 2006)

*do it*

i weigh 180 pounds and am running mine at 110 positive (to get the right sag) and 115 negative. i found that with my neg less than the positive you still have a softish first 5mm but it ramps up a lot harder quicker. going more neg. gives a wonderful plushness and much better small bump compliance. just do it in small increments though and feel it out. more neg than pos is softer.

Ps trust the numbers you are putting in, not the numbers you get when you attach the pump. the neg chamber is small and when you attach your pump there is a decent drop in pressure as the chamber and hose get pressurised. the pssst you hear when you disconnect is the sound of the air coming from the hose not a leaky chamber.


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

*-ve > +ve*

Moman,

Thanks for sharing your tip - that's exactly what I'm getting and was wondering how to resolve - will give it a try!

PS: I'm aware of the "reconnecting your pump will make your pressure drop" thing, and how small the -ve chamber is. Easy mistake to make though, thankfully as previous poster had kindly put up a good explantion somewhere on this board and educated me.

Cheers,

P.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

*Thanks for the tips*

My usual m.o. is to f with it for a couple of weeks. Then just ride.

I go about 175 geared up. Have my U-turn reba set at 115mm with 110 pos/95 neg, 3 clicks in on the floodgate. Gives me excellent anti-dive in the corners but totally lacks small bump compliance. A Fox float 100 is much better in the small stuff but no wheres as stable into the turns. After reading this thread i think i will try and over pressure the neg side.

I tried going with a lighter weight oil, it did not help in the small stuff and the lock out is very soft.


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## frank daleview (Jan 23, 2004)

If you want fox plushness out of a Reba, you have atleast the same or more psi in the negative chamaber-- I weigh 160 and run my + @ 100 and my - @ 105--very nice. I love the fork.


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

Iceaxe,

Just what I have been looking for - I will certainly give it a go.

But how much 'negative travel' loss (e.g. sag without you on the bike) do you get with your set up? In my previous experiments it seemed to make the fork sag down a bit - I guess it's no real biggie though; maybe I am just obsessed...

Cheers,

P.


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## frank daleview (Jan 23, 2004)

It does change the the amount negative travel (or position without you on the bike). However, it seems to have very little effect of the amount sag I get at a given positive chamber air pressure-- as it should. The negative air is supposed to be the "plushness" control-- it changes the responsiveness of the fork to inputs at the top of its travel, and has very little effect on the lower portion of it.


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

*I think I know exactly what you mean*

Trying to follow the 'conventional' method to achieve sag on the Reba seems to result in too soft a fork. I guess the negative sag sort of makes up for it. Can't wait to try it out...

Cheers,

P.


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## Earthpig (Jan 23, 2004)

This is exactly the info I was looking for. I have an '05 Reba SL dual air, and I've never been able to achieve the plushness I have always heard the Reba is famous for. My experience so far is that the fork does feel plush at the very top, but man does it ramp up and feel stiff very quickly. I'm using my Reba on an '05 Jamis Dakar XC Expert, and the 100mm fork feels like it has less travel than the 90mm rear. I go about 180 with gear, and I've dropped my positive pressure below 100psi to get any kind of decent travel. However, I also dropped the negative to around 85. Perhaps increasing the negative to 110 and the positive to 100 is the answer. I'll give 'er a try.


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## jackson_ngo (Aug 16, 2005)

I weights 132lbs and runs the reba at 85mm travel, when i followed the 60% rules @ pos70psi, neg 40psi, the fork feels very "dead", not responding to small bumps.

After changing the pressure to pos 60psi, neg 70psi. Wow, it feels plusher than my friend's f80, and rides like sitting on sofa. Now i love my Reba more than anything else.


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## vortrex (Mar 3, 2005)

how come the instructions say the neg must always be less than the pos?


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*negative/positive*

At first I bought into the 60% rule o' thumb (which in my case came out 100 pos 60 neg or thereabouts) but today was my second ride at 115 neg 100 pos (I weigh 160) and I'm still impressed. The majority of my trails have a buncha 3-6 inch hits and at 115 neg it just smooths these out wonderfully. I agree with the posters above that at the recommended positive (in my case around 100-115) it ramps up pretty fast, but I can use this travel when I really need it...which in my case isn't all that often because I'm not a big hit kinda rider.

It's fun to have a fork this reasonably priced with this much tuneability and stiffness. I have Skarebs on my other bikes and these are good, too, but in a different way. You immediately get the plushness that the Reba makes you tune for, plus a lighter fork for the weight weenies among us, but if you go for too much plushness at the first two inches of travel you bottom out a lot. With the Reba you've got so many ways to tune your travel (first two inches, ultimate bottom-out).

I'm going to Moab with this Reba in a few days and Porcupine, Amassa Back and Gold Bar should give me more info to share. Happy tuning!


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## jackson_ngo (Aug 16, 2005)

according to the manual, RS advised the pos and neg pressure @ quite similar pressure

140lbs---pos80-115psi-----neg80-115psi
and so on............

According to most users, if you prefer something plusher, we should go for a much lower pos air pressure. And adjust the neg air according to how much sensitivity you want the fork to react to small bumps


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## Steve from JH (Dec 30, 2003)

*Everybody has it wrong*

Everyone in this thread should read what Anden had to say a couple of weeks ago:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=174215

He and bikerx40 convinced me and I adjusted my Revelation accordingly.

Basically to get the fork real plush on small bumps you need to lower the positive as far as you can without getting too much bottoming. Then adjust the sag by making the negative *lower* than the positive. That will raise the sag back up to what it was.

Pretty much all the recommendations in the RockShox manual are wrong.


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## JMH (Feb 23, 2005)

*Use your MCD and Floodgate*

It sounds like you are right on with your PSI experiments, but don't ignore the coolest features of this fork, which are the MCD and Floodgate, by running zero compression damping.

Try this: Run your compression damping about 1/3 to half, but only use 1-2 turns of Floodgate from full-open. This will give you a little bit of low-speed compression damping, and helps the fork combat brake dive and packing up, but will feel just as plush as it does with no damping.

Then when you flip the compression to full, you will now have a subtle pedaling platform that should support you just enough that you can climb hard out of the saddle, but not more. This is where the experimenting with the floodgate comes in. I have found that one full turn isn't enough, but two full turns is more than I need.

JMH



xcguy said:


> For what it's worth: I had my '05 Reba SL set at 85 negative, 100 positive (I weigh 160) and rode it for a few months. This last ride I dialed up the negative to about 110 (sure loses a bunch of psi when I remove the pump!) and was amazed at the improved small-bump compliance. Much better. It now rides down in it's travel more (set at 100) but you gotta have sag, right? Both rebound and compression all the way off.


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## Broussard (Mar 17, 2005)

*Ditto.*



JMH said:


> It sounds like you are right on with your PSI experiments, but don't ignore the coolest features of this fork, which are the MCD and Floodgate, by running zero compression damping.
> 
> Try this: Run your compression damping about 1/3 to half, but only use 1-2 turns of Floodgate from full-open. This will give you a little bit of low-speed compression damping, and helps the fork combat brake dive and packing up, but will feel just as plush as it does with no damping.
> 
> ...


I threw away the Pop-lock and replaced it with a cheap friction thumb shifter - Voila,
infinite compression damping adjustment. Turn the damping all the way on, and set the
floodgate so you have *just* enough platform to control bobbing, rather than a rigid
lockout. Run most of the time at around 50% compression damping, and switch to 
full damping for climbing. YMMV, but this works great for me.

By the way, does anyone else here think that a remote for the FLOODGATE setting would be
much more useful than a remote for the COMPRESSION setting? Crank the compression
damping way up and leave it, then use a lot of floodgate for climbing and very little for everything
else.

ZB


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## cmdrpiffle (May 8, 2004)

*Broussard....*

I agree with you. That'd be the best of both worlds.

Something I've noticed (I have a 06 Reba Team with PopLock Adjust U-Turn):

I rarely ride the same settings 2 rides in a row. I'm still 'experimenting' 6 months into the fork. I absolutely love this thing and the infinite adjustability.

Last evening a short 1 mile downhill then the climb back up.....I tried something new on the climb.

Rebound dampening knob almost completely closed...(towards the turtle)
Compression about halfway and unlocked.

The fork friggin stuck to the trail on the climb. It's a very steep ride in a few sections and steering can be sketchy. 
Normally, I'd lock the fork for a climb, but the compliance from having it unlocked helps it stick, and closing the rebound really helps further...zero pogo.

cheers


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

*-ve > +ve*

Yesterday finally had a chance to try out the suggested higher negative pressure, and all I can say is wow! What a difference, the fork now just eats up the trail.

I started of at 90 pos/100 Neg and found it a bit too soft. So I bumped it up to 100/100 and rode the rest of the trail like this. Not quite as plush as I wanted, but didn't have time to adjust further on the trail. I did find that I am using a lot more of my travel.

I still find it a bit too soft (I guess I am probably heavier than I imagined ) and will probably give 110 pos / 120 neg a try next. Agree with other readers comments that there is a huge range of adjustments that can be made to a Reba (mine is a Race dual air with poploc BTW), though I finally think I'm on the right track.

I did read the Anden threads mentioned above - I'm not going to pretend that I know anything about physics, etc. but my trusty arse-o-meter indicates that the higher neg pressure puts a bigger smile on my face. I did run my fork the way Anden recommended initially, but I certainly like the new setup better.

Beauty is, you can try both and find the setting that suits you best, with no harm done either way.

Cheers,

P.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*tuning the Reba*

Just got back from Moab. Went out on the large area of slickrock at the north end of the first part of Sovereign and tried all kindsa pressures. As someone suggested, I first let all the negative pressure out, then put just enough positive in to keep from bottoming too much. Before all this I was running 100 pos 115 neg. This time around I wound up with about 80 pos. It was different seeing that I could actually get full travel (100) regularly. Before it seemed the last inch of travel was only available during an emergency! Then I pumped up the neg lb by lb until I got about 60 in there. Had the plushness I wanted in the first two inches of travel but still could access full travel a lot, but without bobbing. It seemed like putting air in the negative chamber stiffened up the positive, like Anden (?) alluded to. Later, when I went back up that steep sumb!tch climb to the top area of Sovereign I decided to mess with it some more. Managed to drop the neg all the way back to zero but decided to try that out. I only accessed about 2 1/2" of travel the whole way back. Then pumped the neg back up to 60 and travel was good again throughout. Haven't messed with the floodgate. That's just too many things to think about while on vacation!


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

Xcguy,

What I found when running 80+/60- was:
+ no bobbing
+ rides high in travel, especially downhill
- harsh over high frequency chattery stuff
- a little too progressive in last 2 inches
- never used last inch of travel

When I switched to your formula (or close enough) 100+/100- over 1 ride, still requires finessing:
+ much plusher ride, especially over high frequency chattery stuff
+ noticeably less ache in hands/wrists
+ uses more of travel
- rides lower in travel, especially downhill
- more susceptible to brake dive

From my point of view the high neg pres is preferable for now, though I intend to perform the following to remove/reduce the lower ride hight and brake dive issues by performing amongst others:
- increase pressure to 110+/120- and play around from there
- zero neg pres, inflate pos chamber and re-inflate neg pres as suggested (I did the 1st time too)
- experiment with compression and FG settings.

I was hoping to try the above out this long weekend, but have sadly been sick as a dog. I'm on the mend and hopefully will be back in the saddle by the weekend.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Well I'm one who had originally suggested the 60-70% rule for NEG pressures, on initial setup for a REBA and like it like that. HOWEVER this weekend after doing some serious tech climibng w/ my REBA extended all the way out to 115mm _(removed all the spacers)_and having to be right over to keep the front end down I decided to do a little experimenting. I decided to pump the NEG pressure up untill I got travel/exposed stancion back to 100mm and this is what I found.

Definitely the higher NEG pressure causes the bike to ride lower in the travel, creates more brake dive but made climbing a bit easier on the back having to not bend so far forward.I didn't use all my travel had about 1" left back _(but it was a fairly tame ride)_, but found that when I ran the 60-70& NEG pressure rule I could easily use all my travel.

As for the stutter bumps, I don't think FOX handles them any better _(ride w/ guys who run FOX and they suffer the same as me)_ and there's no real easy way to stop the stutter effect -_ I'm talking the stuff that track tractors lay down_

One thing is for sure, you have infitite setting possibilities w/ the REBA.


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## NormanPCN (Oct 13, 2005)

LyNx said:


> Definitely the higher NEG pressure causes the bike to ride lower in the travel, creates more brake dive but made climbing a bit easier on the back having to not bend so far forward.I didn't use all my travel had about 1" left back _(but it was a fairly tame ride)_, but found that when I ran the 60-70& NEG pressure rule I could easily use all my travel.
> ...
> One thing is for sure, you have infitite setting possibilities w/ the REBA.


As a new Reba user I will agree with this. I currently run 130/130. Here in SoCal we have tons of rocky/rutted climbs. Running the neg pressure at the pos pressure lowers the effective spring rate near the top of the travel and this helps compliance, especially on climbs since the front end is unloaded. Since this is planet Earth, nothing comes for free. Doing this gives you a more progressive spring curve. Softer initial and stiffer later.


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## antonio (Jan 18, 2005)

Just wantd to post that I took xcguy's advice this weekend and added more negative (150+/140-), and it has made me like my Reba that much more. Thanks.

Ant


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*what Reba owners want*

It's interesting how Reba owners want their forks to perform. And amazing that the Reba can be tuned to accommodate such a wide variety of tastes. One guy says he rarely rides the same pressures two rides in a row, another says stutter bump compliance is a priority, though it seems as if a higher negative pressure (smoothing out the small bumps) works for a majority of riders. I guess in a perfect world my Reba(s) would allow me full travel a lot, not just in emergencies, but not to the extent that I have unacceptable brake dive (like my Skareb when I dial down the pressure to get a full 100mm of travel). Also, no bobbing when out of the saddle, smoothing out the small stuff so I'm like riding on a cloud...what else...decent sag without compromising a linear full-travel rate...hey, I want it all. And, it would seem as if the Reba, if a rider wants to mess with the pressures enough, can achieve almost any combination of the above. I never owned a Rockshox before the Reba, and I've heard that the Reba is the first fork designed with input by SRAM engineers (who bought Rockshox), so I send my personal congratulations to (the new) Rockshox for getting it so right. And, for all those out there who have other new-style Rockshox, are their other dual-air forks as tuneable???


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

I think since the inception of the 'new generation' RS forks utilising MC, its been known that they are highly adjustable. And the flexibility it allows is great, or a curse, depending on your point of view - though ultimately allows the user to customise to his/her individual requirements

However, to me what is truly a good thing is that there are people here who are willing to share the experiences and tips so others can benefit to find their ultimate setup. From this thread so far we have established 2 main ways to set up your REBA. Hope everyone will continue to share


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## royta (Jan 17, 2006)

I only weigh 150, but pack a lot of gear so I'm at 165 when riding. I set my '06 Reba Team Dual Air to 100+ 90-. I get about 20mm sag. Rebound right in the middle and Motion Control fully open. I keep Floodgate fully closed and close the Motion Control fully for sustained smoother fire road climbs.

I'll admit that I'm not the best at tuning suspension, as I lack the experience many have. I've been riding MTB's since 1993, but my last fork purchase was in 1997, and a 1997 Judy SL. Suspension designs have come a long way since then.

Anyway, the fork feels pretty good, but does anybody have any suggestions for me to try?


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

*As many have suggested before me...*

You could try Floodgate only quarter or half closed, and use say half closed compression (motion control as you say). I believe you will find that you won't need to fully close the compression (motion control) quite so often and have better pedalling efficiency, but still retain good plushness. I think you will also find that slight movement is actually good on those climbs

And if it doesn't work, you can go back to what you know


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*and the Reba tuning continues*



royta said:


> I only weigh 150, but pack a lot of gear so I'm at 165 when riding. I set my '06 Reba Team Dual Air to 100+ 90-. I get about 20mm sag. Rebound right in the middle and Motion Control fully open. I keep Floodgate fully closed and close the Motion Control fully for sustained smoother fire road climbs.
> 
> I'll admit that I'm not the best at tuning suspension, as I lack the experience many have. I've been riding MTB's since 1993, but my last fork purchase was in 1997, and a 1997 Judy SL. Suspension designs have come a long way since then.
> 
> Anyway, the fork feels pretty good, but does anybody have any suggestions for me to try?


We weigh about the same. I had mine at 100 pos 80 neg, then tried 100 pos 115 neg and the small bump absorbing really felt better. I really never use the compression damping knob, but it seems as if others do. Rebound all the way off. Still couldn't access the last 1 1/2" of travel very easily, though.

Then I tried what another said on this thread: I took out all the negative air and pumped up the positive enough so I didn't bottom out real easily (which turned out to be 80 lbs), then pumped up the neg to where small bump absorbing felt good, which turned out to be 60 lbs. This way I could access full travel more easily than with the pos at 100. By pumping up the negative chamber at all it pressurises the compression chamber so it will ramp up faster accordingly depending on how much sag you're going for.

Both sets of pressure situations feel good, but "good" is a relative term, relative to what the rider wants from his suspension. I guess I'm saying try turning off both compression and rebound damping, pump up your negative chamber past your positive and see if you like it. Then try scenario 2 where you wind up with much lower pressures in both and see what you think. Then...well, who knows where you'll wind up.


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## royta (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks xcguy. I can see how having rebound set to full fast would be beneficial when having more neg pressure than pos pressure. I already do have my compression set all the way off.

I might not use full travel with the 100+ 90-, but I'm getting within 1/2 inch. It might just have to do with the terrain you're riding on. Where I used to ride in Southern Oregon and Northern California, I was totally fine on an HT with '97 Judy SL (2.5" travel). On the trails in the Santa Ana's in Southern California, my HT was beating me up, so quickly made the jump to a Flux (4" & 4" Reba).

I have a problem with finding something that works, and then quit without seeing if there is anything better. I'll definitely experiment with higher negative pressure and less rebound. Thanks.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Just remember one thing Royta, the RS air pressure recomendations are way high for the REBA. I'm around 190-195lbs w/ gear and I only run 100 PSI in the POS to get proper full travel. According to RS I should run somewhere between 115-130 PSI for my weight - absolute madness.


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## vifer (Jul 8, 2005)

Hi guys,

I own a 05 Reba team with Poplock. 

Hope you guys out there can help me solve my queries. When I pump up 100PSI +ve & 110 PSI -ve, my fork feels very stiff. It can hardly move half an inch. When I pump 60PSI +ve & 80PSI -ve, I can hear a tick tack sound whenever I push my fork down. Max movement is about 2inches of travel then it becomes very stiff again. Movement on the sliders feel smooth. My LBS told me it's the valve opening and closing.

Does your Reba make any noise when it is compressed? 

Another question. My LBS told me to pump up my fork -ve half way first then +ve half way. Finally, pump up both side to desired pressure. The reasoning given is that there is a valve that floats in between the 2 chambers. Is it true?

My rebound is set to full rabbit. Flood gate is about 5 clicks from full lock.


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## Severum (Sep 9, 2003)

vifer said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I own a 05 Reba team with Poplock.
> 
> ...


Do you notice any difference from full rebound to no rebound control. how about full cmopression vs no compression?

Let all the air out and let us know how much travel you can get.


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## vifer (Jul 8, 2005)

Severum said:


> Do you notice any difference from full rebound to no rebound control. how about full cmopression vs no compression?
> 
> Let all the air out and let us know how much travel you can get.


When I let out all the air in both chambers, I have full travel. The crown almost hit the lower legs.

At 60+ve & 80-ve with full rebound(rabbit), my fork moves easier than no rebound (tortoise).


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## Alpenglow (Feb 5, 2004)

*Poplock Sucks*

I didn't get full use of my settings until I switched form polock to manual settings. Your LBS or speedgoat can sell you the necessary kits.


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## royta (Jan 17, 2006)

LyNx said:


> Just remember one thing Royta, the RS air pressure recomendations are way high for the REBA. I'm around 190-195lbs w/ gear and I only run 100 PSI in the POS to get proper full travel. According to RS I should run somewhere between 115-130 PSI for my weight - absolute madness.


I just took the 60% of riding weight for positive and 60% of positive for negative and did a little more for the negative. 60% of 165 pounds is 99 psi. I never did try the 60 psi for negative, I tried 80 psi and then moved up to 90 psi.


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## yakswak (Apr 17, 2004)

vifer said:


> When I let out all the air in both chambers, I have full travel. The crown almost hit the lower legs.
> 
> At 60+ve & 80-ve with full rebound(rabbit), my fork moves easier than no rebound (tortoise).


The "rabbit" refers to the fast setting, meaning less rebound control from the damper. The full "tortoise" setting is the slow setting, meaning more rebound control from the damper. What you are describing makes perfect sense ("my fork moves easier") because the damper is not interfering with your fork leg movement.

You should keep experimenting for that right setting for your rebound control. I have mine a few turns from full fast (rabbit) because of the terrain I ride.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*a few pounds in either chamber makes a difference*

I have two almost identical bikes with two '05 Reba SLs. I've been posting about the bike I took to Moab. Yesterday I took out my OTHER Reba to do some "fine tuning". I started with the same settings as the Moab Reba (80 pos 60 neg) but found that I had brakedivefromh!ll and it wasn't as plush in the initial part of the travel. By the way, I always do my testing with rebound and compression damping full off.

So I pumped up the pos chamber just to 85 and the neg just to 65. Big difference. The brake dive wasn't so radical and it was indeed plusher on the initial end of travel. My point being that just a few pounds either way in either chamber can make a big difference. I fully agree with others that RSs recommendation for positive chamber lbs is too high. You can pump up the neg chamber to compensate and get plusher initial travel, but high pos pressure seems to me to eliminate full travel. Of course, what "high" pressures are depends on your weight, but at 160 (my riding weight) keeping pos below 90 and neg around 65-70 works for me.

I guess I could complicate things now by messing with the compression damper. By turning it halfway on could I lower the pos chamber and eliminate brakedive but access full travel more frequently? I've always run my forks' rebound damper just a few clicks from full off, if that, so I'll probably leave the Reba's off. Truth be told, I really don't ride so's I can fool with all my suspension's settings. I'd rather just reach a good compromise and leave it. Someone else said that you just have to find out what aspect of a fork's suspension habits you value the most and dial THAT in, knowing that you really can't have every single thing to perfection. Or does a guy spend another $300 and get a Fox and magically all is perfect? I'm just glad I can spend what I did on the Reba and get such a good working fork.


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## vifer (Jul 8, 2005)

Thanks guys. Hope I can solve the problem this coming weekend at the trail. My friend was telling me to keep my flood gate almost fully open. Wonder will that help.


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

*Fg*

Vifer,

Try running your floodgate 1/4 or 1/2 from full open. I usually run mine 2-2.5 complete turns from full open, with compression set to halfway between full open and full closed (I have pop-loc adjust, I use the knob on the pop-loc to adjust the compression setting.

This should give you better small bump compliance whilst maintaining the 'platform' effect somewhat. Keep experimenting in small increments to see what suits you best.

Happy riding...


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## vifer (Jul 8, 2005)

I have the same setting at my flood gate control and I leave my compression setting to fully open. My fork always produce a clicking sound from the motion control damping side when I compress it. Is this normal in Reba forks?

Met a Reba user at a LBS just now. He weighs 187lbs and he pumps his fork at 150PSI (+ve) & 140PSI (-ve). He told me not to have higher pressure in the negative chamber as it will spoil the fork. How true? He also said that my fork is faulty as his fork does not produce any clicking sound at all. He claimed that Reba should not be able to compress by just pushing downwards but will work smoothly when riding over rough terrains, absorbing all the bumps. Second confusion point for me. Sounds like a Fox Talas.

When I got home, I tried to pump my fork to 115PSI (+ve) & 100PSI (-ve), I can't even compress my fork more than 1cm.

Anyway, I have decided to cancel my weekend ride and head down to my LBS to get the fork check and hopefully replaced. Don't want to lose control and crash in the forest.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

vifer said:


> I have the same setting at my flood gate control and I leave my compression setting to fully open. My fork always produce a clicking sound from the motion control damping side when I compress it. Is this normal in Reba forks?
> 
> Met a Reba user at a LBS just now. He weighs 187lbs and he pumps his fork at 150PSI (+ve) & 140PSI (-ve). He told me not to have higher pressure in the negative chamber as it will spoil the fork. How true? He also said that my fork is faulty as his fork does not produce any clicking sound at all. He claimed that Reba should not be able to compress by just pushing downwards but will work smoothly when riding over rough terrains, absorbing all the bumps. Second confusion point for me. Sounds like a Fox Talas.
> 
> ...


I don't have Poploc, just a plain Jane '05 SL. Never any clicking when I compress the fork. 
With the settings I have now (85 pos, 65 neg) I can lean over the bars and compress down about 2 1/2", but get full travel when I'm riding. I weigh 160. I don't know what's happening inside your fork. Have you tried my scenario 2--take all the air out of both chambers, just pump up the pos side to about 85. You should be able to push your fork down quite a bit, even without negative chamber pressure. Then when you pump up the neg to maybe 60-65 you should be able to push it down like I can, then hopefully it would ride like mine does on the trails, coming close to bottoming out but not all the time and small bump absorbing. If I turn up my compression damping, sure the fork doesn't compress much or not at all. I only ride with the comp. damping full off and I'd think you could dial your comp. damping all the way off. Sounds like you cannot turn off your compression damping. It also sounds like the guy giving you advice at the LBS keeps his comp. damping dialed way up but has his floodgate turned way down so the fork will break loose when it hits stuff on the trail. Well, that's just the way he likes his fork to work, but I don't do that. Whatever that clicking sound is I think is something wrong in there. Good luck. Get a Reba that works!


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## NormanPCN (Oct 13, 2005)

vifer said:


> Met a Reba user at a LBS just now. He weighs 187lbs and he pumps his fork at 150PSI (+ve) & 140PSI (-ve).


Holy crap! Thos presures sound high. I weigh 225 and I am running 130/130 in my Reba on a 22" Trance with around 3/4" sag. This is a big bike so the front tire does not have as much weight as someone on a smaller bike but that guys pressures seem high. If I lay all my weight on the bars I compress about what xcguy posted. I never did an actual measurement of that. Just visual. I have also ridden with 140/140. Playing around at home, no ride as yet, I did try the neg 10psi below the pos and my 3/4" sag came to about 120+ and 110-.


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## xjbebop (Jul 14, 2005)

I'm about 200# riding weight and run my Reba at about 120+/120-, and love it!
Any more psi and it gets too stiff. 
The guy at yer lbs is on crack...


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## kirbster1966 (Jul 14, 2004)

I am 240 and i run 130/130 and still dont get full travel very often. I get about 80-90 percent at the 115mm setting. I am not a great technical rider and tend to just push through stuff. I think i have found a pretty sweet spot right now and likely wont mess with it too much more. The recommended settings are way off as when i tried them i found my hands and arms were getting hammered. Right now i am extremely happy with mine.


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## NormanPCN (Oct 13, 2005)

I just rode this weekend at 110+/90-. On the soft side. Needs some damping to control the for movememt while bouncing down rocks. Uses travel well. 130/130 is pretty good and can ride damping wide open down rocks. Needs a good hit to use the travel (mini jump with a klutz landing). I will try 120+/110-. Refresher, I am 220-225lbs. In all, those are the range of pressures that work for my size and all at around .75" sag.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

I think you'd prob do better w/ 115-120 POS and 100-110 NEG. I tried running the matching POS/NEG pressures but found that I wasn't using the travel so I'm back down to 100POS, 70-80 NEG.



NormanPCN said:


> I just rode this weekend at 110+/90-. On the soft side. Needs some damping to control the for movememt while bouncing down rocks. Uses travel well. 130/130 is pretty good and can ride damping wide open down rocks. Needs a good hit to use the travel (mini jump with a klutz landing). I will try 120+/110-. Refresher, I am 220-225lbs. In all, those are the range of pressures that work for my size and all at around .75" sag.


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## ndbike (Jun 18, 2005)

Hey everybody. This thread has been really helpful to me to see that there are quite a variety of ways to set up the Reba. I just installed my '06 Team w/poplock adjust last night. I didn't have time to do any adjusting and I'm planning on riding it tomorrow. From what I gather the recommended pressures in the manual are way to high. 

Can anyone recommend a good % of bodyweight number to go with as initial setup for the positive and negative chambers? I weight about 140lbs.

Also, is it ok to run more NEG pressure than Positive? I thought I saw one post where it was suggested not to. 

The fork initially is setup for 100mm travel, however I don't think I need quite that much for my application, XC and some marathon racing, plus I want the fork to set down a little more so the bike rides more like it did when I had an 80mm fork on here. A little change is ok. I didn't want to tear the fork apart to change the spacer without riding it first, so if I go more NEG pressure will that set the fork down a little more or would it be better to just set the fork to sag more than normal?

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Try starting with 60% of body weight=about 80 PSI, then adjust the pressure from there depending on how it uses the travel.

ALSO remember that everyones shock pumps prob read different fomr everyone else's so what someone might recomend might actually be less or more than it actually is.

As for running the NEG higher than the POS, yes you can do it, yes it will draw the travel down, but it may effect being able to use full travel using the 60% body weight +PSI so you may need to drop that pressure a bit.



ndbike said:


> Can anyone recommend a good % of bodyweight number to go with as initial setup for the positive and negative chambers? I weight about 140lbs.
> 
> Also, is it ok to run more NEG pressure than Positive? I thought I saw one post where it was suggested not to.
> 
> Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


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## ndbike (Jun 18, 2005)

LyNx said:


> Try starting with 60% of body weight=about 80 PSI, then adjust the pressure from there depending on how it uses the travel.
> 
> ALSO remember that everyones shock pumps prob read different fomr everyone else's so what someone might recomend might actually be less or more than it actually is.
> 
> As for running the NEG higher than the POS, yes you can do it, yes it will draw the travel down, but it may effect being able to use full travel using the 60% body weight +PSI so you may need to drop that pressure a bit.


Thanks for the suggestion. Good point about the shock pump, and that is sort of why I was asking about it in terms of % of body weight. Thanks for the tips and I'll post back as to what I find in order to possibly help the next guy.


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## vifer (Jul 8, 2005)

Sent my Reba back to my LBS. Over the phone, I was told that air was trapped inside the negative chamber. I will be picking up my bike tomorrow. Hope to see better performance for my fork.


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## bellullabob (Jan 8, 2004)

*Adjustability...*

The reason I love my reba even though it might be difficult to set up initially, is that once set up, it still has phenomenal on the fly adjustment.

Case in point: I usually ride my fork in the lock out mode and have the threshold set at about one third. No brake dive, or bobbing, but at the cost of some small bumb compliance and some deflection off of the bigger hits- matches my 3 way on the rear nicely. Last weekend I was racing in really muddy conditions and the terrain was technical and extremely slippery. The first 1/3 of my lap with the setting as described I was getting some deflection off of the rock which was making it difficult to keep bike fast on the narrow twisty singletrack. I unlocked the fork with push of my thumb which turned it into a plush terrain eating machine. It soaked up all the hits and kept the fork just glued to the ground increasing my control even in slippery mud tremendously, and I was now suddenly catching up and passing riders in front of me who had difficulties keeping their bikes in line... (then I flatted in the rear...:madman: )

Great fork!


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## vifer (Jul 8, 2005)

*Finally ...*

Got my fork working again. No more clicking sound nor any problem. Still in the stage of tuning it. Thanks for the tips. :thumbsup:


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## Odnis (Oct 10, 2004)

vifer said:


> Met a Reba user at a LBS just now. He weighs 187lbs and he pumps his fork at 150PSI (+ve) & 140PSI (-ve). He told me not to have higher pressure in the negative chamber as it will spoil the fork. How true?


Totally untrue. Check out the RS site : http://www.sram.com/en/service/rockshox/air_inflation.php


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## Odnis (Oct 10, 2004)

LyNx said:


> Well I'm one who had originally suggested the 60-70% rule for NEG pressures, on initial setup for a REBA and like it like that. HOWEVER this weekend after doing some serious tech climibng w/ my REBA extended all the way out to 115mm _(removed all the spacers)_and having to be right over to keep the front end down I decided to do a little experimenting.


Can anyone explain to me how to install spacers. I've just bought a Reba Team w/o U-Turn, so if I want my fork down a bit I guess I have to use the plastic spacers that came with my fork. However, there's nowhere in the manual or on the SRAM site that I find the necessary info. Can anyone here please help me?


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

And you looked _How Hard_??? Right at the bottom of every page there is a link to Service  Anyways I guess I'm feeling kind, even though this is like the umpteenth time I'm posting this link http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/95-410-762-000 2006 Pike Reba RVL Dual Air Service Guide.pdf



Odnis said:


> Can anyone explain to me how to install spacers. I've just bought a Reba Team w/o U-Turn, so if I want my fork down a bit I guess I have to use the plastic spacers that came with my fork. However, there's nowhere in the manual or on the SRAM site that I find the necessary info. Can anyone here please help me?


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## timehoc (Sep 17, 2005)

I've gone through this thread, and through other Reba threads and other Reba threads. I've brought my fork pump with me the last 40+ miles of ridng and have tried countless settings. At my 174 body weight 90+/75- so far gives me the best feeling setting.

Now my question is...in laymans terms..what the heck do I need my compression dial for?

I have a Reba Team with Poplock adjust so I have the blue dial to be able to crank down the compression. I know that cranking it down will start to my fork stroke. Basically...why is is there and why do I need it?

Thanks, :madman:


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*I agree that you have your pos/neg pressures*



timehoc said:


> I've gone through this thread, and through other Reba threads and other Reba threads. I've brought my fork pump with me the last 40+ miles of ridng and have tried countless settings. At my 174 body weight 90+/75- so far gives me the best feeling setting.
> 
> Now my question is...in laymans terms..what the heck do I need my compression dial for?
> 
> ...


correct. I'm about 160 and I run 85 pos/70 neg. But I'm always tuning! I have two Reba SLs with a compression damping knob on the fork crown. I sometimes dial up the compression damping a little bit to deal with brake dive (when I have my pressures set up to deal with the trail I'm on but when I brake suddenly into a switchback I'd like my fork to not go so far down into it's travel) but know I've got full travel when I really need it. However, this isn't something I do all the time, it's just fun to mess around with it. I also have a Reba Team (yes, three Rebas) that came with Poplock adjust, which I actually didn't know it had when I ordered it. What a different scenario. Instead of reaching down and tuning my compression knob to what I might like one minute, to something else the next minute, I have to mess with that little blue knob and then I only get that setting until I pop the Poploc and readjust. I think Poploc adjust is just a bother. Unless you're the kind of rider who is constantly locking and unlocking his compression damping everytime he hammers out of the saddle (which I almost never do) I don't see the need for a handlebar mounted setup like Poploc. So, your question might be rephrased: why do I have Poploc Adjust and why is it there??? I think you'd get a better grip on the whole compression damping thing if it was easier to deal, like when it's just a knob on the fork crown, but dealing with Poploc just complicates your experimenting. Think of it simply as: when you're hammering out of the saddle almost any fork is going to bob up and down and by pressing the Poploc you lock out your fork (if your blue adjuster knob is set at full lockout) and, believe me, a non-bobbing fork at the moment of hammering is really a benefit. Try it.

That said, I've yet to really fool around with the externally adjustable floodgate, which if I am to believe others on this thread, is a really cool Reba adjustability item. Somebody who posted above explains it better than I could. When I've tried Poploc fully on (as in compression damping on full and basically no fork movement) but with floodgate dialed in to my liking I'll have an opinion. As I'm the guy who started this thread, it's been fascinating to see all the responses to what the Reba is capable of. I started out thinking one way, but others pointed out better options. And so it goes.


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## Odnis (Oct 10, 2004)

timehoc said:


> Now my question is...in laymans terms..what the heck do I need my compression dial for?


You can use compression as a "anti-bob platform regulator" ;-) to fine tune your forks action in the un-locked position = Poplock adjust open. It's a thing that makes it possible to make a compromise between fully open and fully locked. To put it in another way: Instead of only having two options, 0 or 1, you can choose ½ or 3/4 or something in between.
Try this: First you turn lockout and compression completely off (100% counter-clockwise). When you ride standing - preferably on asphalt to get the best understanding of what is going on - you'll feel the forks bobbing and dancing under you. If you then turn fully activate compression (100% clockwise) you'll notice how much harder the forks action get, because in short what you do is you keep the lockout activated. I agree with XCGUY on his point. Neither have I any use of the compression damping. I prefer using the external floodgate.
You can actually do the same experiment with the external floodgate. This works even more illustrative than the test mentioned above, because now you don't affect the main action of the forks, but mainly the bob side effect in the locked position (poplock closed) which - to me - is the major benefit of the external floodgate. But this is because I use the poplock all the time and never ride in rough trails with the poplock closed. I ride a fully and I keep myself seated most of the time. When I occasionally hammer in the pedals I close the poplock. I do so because I believe I can manage the trail  At this specific point I want the forks to "behave themselves" and be almost rigid. This is why compression adjustment is pretty useless to me, it handicaps the forks main performance.


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## bob29r (Dec 5, 2004)

I have a 05 Reba SL 29" I just got from Ebay.. seller claimed it was never used and rightly so cause it was clean when I got it. I took my first ride this morning... all was going well until I heard air escaping from the right fork when compressing. Then about 2 miles later it went away,,, it was quiet. For the next 5 miles it was quiet, then the air escaping noise returned. The trail I rode was rooty so the fork was getting a decent workout. 

I searched for other Reba 29er owner posts and the same problem was reported but no solution or root cause described.. any ideas guys ? 

All information greatly appreciated...


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## royta (Jan 17, 2006)

Did you verify that air was escaping, or was it just something that sounded like air escaping. My Team Dual Air does the same thing. I _believe_ it is the sound of oil passing through the valving when the fork compresses.


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## bob29r (Dec 5, 2004)

I did verify that each chamber had air after my first ride... both were 100+ psi, so this was a good indication to me that the noise is something else other than "air escaping". And yes, it could definetly be oil passing as well. 

When I turn the compression dial to the total unlock position, the fork compresses silently. It seems as I turn the compression adjustment to the halfway mark (between lock/unlock) the squishing noise starts again but lets up as I adjust closer to the lock position. Seems to be a sweet spot halfway within the compression adjustment when the air noise occurs.

Other than that, the fork seems to be performing fine. After all, this new Reba replaced a '02 Marchozzi Bomber which is a close cousin to a rigid ! I will just ride it and consider it the norm.

Cheers


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## royta (Jan 17, 2006)

My fork didn't make the sound from the very beginning though. I do plan on disassembling and replacing oil within a month. Remind me to let you know if the sound stuck around afterwards.


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## bob29r (Dec 5, 2004)

royta.. right.. this fork didn't either. it was silent for the first mile of so, then it started to make it, then it stopped for 5 mi. or so, then it occured again. I now believe that it is dependent on where I set the Compression dial. There seems to be a sweet spot at the halfway point (between lock/unlock) of the dial where the noise occurs. In full lock or full unlock the fork compresses silently.

I just got a confimation from another owner that it happens with his as well. My fork works fine, no seeping oil, air was in both neg and pos chambers after the ride. 

Thanks for taking the time to comment on this.. I will try to remember to post you at a later date. Cheers


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

*Most of them do that...*

Bob29r,

As you have verified that there are no physical leaks (oil, fluids, etc.) and air pressure is retained, I can safely say that that sound is basically the floodgate opening when you hit a sufficiently sized bump.

My 26' specific model certainly does that, and after a while I have just learnt to ignore it and enjoy the ride. As you say, once you've found that sweet-spot, the fork really let's you enjoy the ride.

Just wish my Enduro fork seals would loosen up soon - I must have at least 20 hours on the bike now, and they are barely beginning to break in. Anyone else experience extended stiction on new Enduro's?

P.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

LMAO  You know I was going to ask if you had the "lock-out"/compression knob active, but thought nah. Yes there is noise created by the oil trying to get through the smaller and smaller opening that is created when you add more compression adjustment to the REBAs. Glad you got it sorted. The only problem peolpe seemed to have with very early models was air escaping between the POS and NEG chambers.



bob29r said:


> When I turn the compression dial to the total unlock position, the fork compresses silently. It seems as I turn the compression adjustment to the halfway mark (between lock/unlock) the squishing noise starts again but lets up as I adjust closer to the lock position. Seems to be a sweet spot halfway within the compression adjustment when the air noise occurs.Cheers


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## Scottyman (May 29, 2006)

Just installed the Enduros on my Reba----I still don't have my bike assembled (upgrading) yet, but will let you know how long it takes for break in.
Have you tried the Stanchion Lube? http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id79.html


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

*Stanchion Lube*

Unfortunately being in Malaysia presents me with some logistical and shipping expense issues to buying stanchion lube, and I haven't found it locally. Looking at some other threads, silicon spray has been suggested. So I picked some up and gave it a try, and it seems to make some improvement.

I am now also running lower pressures (with +ve/-ve roughly equal) than before the seal & bushing change. All this combined, + the seals and bushings bedding in are slowly yeilding a smoother riding fork, but it feels like it'll take a little more riding to truly get it stiction free.

P.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*yep, the manual is wrong*

First off, you don't loose anything when you take the pump off. That air escaping is from the pump, and you loose something when you put the pump on, because it has to fill the pump with air.

Yeah, the manual recommends way too much pressure. I weigh about 200#, and was running about 130-140 psi pos and neg. It felt harsh. I could have sworn that it used to be more plush.

I tried dropping the pressure, and was amazed with the results. Naturally, just dropping the positive air made it loose travel, so I dropped the negative too, and it came back. I dropped it to around 100#, just to see what would happen. I thought it would bottom like crazy, but it didn't! It was nice and plush, like I remembered it was when new.

I am gonna do an oil change as well. I'm overdue, and I'm sure it isn't as plush as it could be because of fouled oil.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*what I learned on this thread*

First off I want to say I love my Rebas. Second, I know for me that when I see some very long thread there's info hidden in there that the firsttime viewer might miss. So I'm going to repeat what someone else posted a long time ago, I tried and agree that that's the way to tune your Reba.

Take all the negative pressure out. Drop the positive pressure lower than 80 (trust me) then ride around, see if it bottoms all the time. Incrementally pump up the positive till it just does bottom upon a large impact. Then start pumping up the negative till small-bump compliance suits you. For me (160 lbs) this worked out to be about 85-90 pos 65-70 neg.

Any higher pos and I never use full travel. At these lower pressures I can bottom out at a really large impact but not all the time and it feels great on small bumps. I fine tune the compression damping if I'm brake diving into corners a lot, but conditions vary trail to trail and usually I leave the compression damping all the way off all the time.

Flood gate settings are another thing. Since I rarely have my compression damping on I really haven't come up with some optimum flood gate setting, just leave it on about midway between full on and full off. Happy tuning.

And if someone wants to post again about flood gate settings I'd like to read it again.


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## cmdrpiffle (May 8, 2004)

*Interesting.....*

I have actually read the entire thread again.

Lots of good info.

I'm about 190 fully loaded w/ Camelback etc. I USED to run my Reba Team w/PopLock about 120+ 70- pressure.

I went to SlickRock trail up in the Sierras this week. The 1st third of the trail is all monster babyheads and bigger. I was getting beat up trying to keep from going over the bars from the compression. Too soft. I didn't have a pump so I just used a stick and blew off all of the negative pressure. Blingo !!!! Suddenly a perfect fork for hitting rocks and not compressing too much. Still had compliance over some hits, but at that point I didn't care. I just needed to firm it up fast. (I'd already maxed out the compression).

So..........moral of the story........I was talking last night to another Reba owner, and I explained what i did. He said I should have just locked it out, and adjusted open a bit the floodgate. 
Never thought of that.

Cheers


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*floodgate to the rescue*

That's what's so cool about the Reba is all the adjustability it has. 120 pos seems a tad low for 190 lbs, but only by going through what I've described will you know. But what do I know? Hey, do the tuning I've described and post back to us what you wind up with. And always carry a pump! And, yes, you could have messed around with your compression dial to tune things.

Floodgate knowledgeable people--how's about some replies on how to use this feature? It may have been covered before but the knowledge is hidden deep within this thread.


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

*Floodgate & Compression*

Firstly, I would not call myself an expert at this, and secondly, I'm pretty sure this has been (probably better) explained elsewhere on the forum before, so I am just posting the combined knowledge of what I have read + experienced for myself. So here is my 2 cents worth, which should apply to both poploc and non-poploc variants:

The 1st thing to remember about the floodgate (FG) and compression settings on Motion Control RS forks is that the 2 settings are interlinked. If *either* the FG or comp or *both* are set to full open, there is no tangible effect on the compression or 'platform' performance of the fork. E.g. with FG full open and comp full closed settings, there is no tangible diferrence in the compression damping characteristics of the fork. Compression damping in this instance is basically of the low-speed variety, i.e. the speed at which the fork compresses as a result of a low-speed event e.g. pedal bob. FG provides a threshold at which the damping effect is reduced and the fork is allowed to compress more easily (large bump, etc.)

In order to use the comp & FG settings effectively, you will need to have both settings engaged at the same time to some degree that suits your riding style. The slight trick is that each setting (FG & comp) influences how the other behaves. I don't really know how best to explain this, but perhaps I shall instead list 2 popular settings I have noted on the boards as a reference point, and you can experiment from there.

*Example setting #1 - *Comp 1/2 to 3/4 closed + FG 1-2 full turns from *full open*
This setting provides 'more' low speed compression damping performance, with a 'light' FG threshold resulting in a mild platform effect. This config seems to give _some_ anti-brake dive/bob performance, whilst maintaining reasonable small bump sensitivity. This is the setting I personally prefer.

*Example setting #2* - Comp 1/4 to 1/2 closed + FG 1-2 full turns from *full closed*
This setting provides 'less' low speed compression damping performance, with a 'strong' FG threshold resulting in a stronger platform effect. This config seems to give _better_ anti-brake dive/bob performance, but resulting in a harsher ride. This seems to be preferred by some riders on the forum, and may give better performance for those who prefer to hammer or want a strong platform effect.

Additionally, you can also crank up the compression knob (or fully depress to lock for poploc) temporarily to provide a 'lockout' for climbs or when you want to get up and hammer it. It isn't a 100% lockout, as the fork will still compress once the FG threshold is reached, which means that you will still have suspension if you forget to 'unlock' on the way down the hill.

There are obviously infinite variations of the above, and the final settings will depend on your own riding style and preferences. The only thing I can suggest is to go with a setting you think is best for your and tweak it from there on a familiar trail - I highly recommend small incremental adjustments when tuning, as a single click on the FG can be felt. For further reading, please refer to http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=136225

Before anyone decides to flame me for the above, please note that they are my own personal views on a very personal and subjective matter, and the above may also be totally wrong. Happy tweaking!

P.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Floodgate...*

I have my compression set to all the way fast. Surprisingly, it isn't too bad with bobbing. I have my Floodgate set to be fairly firm, just firm enough to not bob unless I hit a bump. I then use my Poplock as a regular lockout. When I get out of the saddle to hammer, I lock out the Poplock, and dance. If I happen to hit a medium square edge bump, it gives. All the rest of the time, bob isn't really a problem, so I go for plush.


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## jcanfer (Apr 20, 2006)

*At last a thread that helps!*

For the past couple of months I've really been struggling to get my Reba Team's working even remotely well, so much so that my lovely new full susser has been hung on a rack in favour of my Fox equiped hardtail.

I even spoke to a SRAM tech at Mountain Mayhem this June and he was next to no help and towed the company line on pressures i.e. 10% less than those on the back of the fork with equal pressure. Bizarrely most UK owners I've spoken to claim that the standard pressures are fine!

Anyway, armed with all this info from you I'm off for a weekend of Reba adjusting.

Thanks to everyone for posting so much good info, you've saved me from spending money I could ill afford on another Fox fork!


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*keep trying*



jcanfer said:


> For the past couple of months I've really been struggling to get my Reba Team's working even remotely well, so much so that my lovely new full susser has been hung on a rack in favour of my Fox equiped hardtail.
> 
> I even spoke to a SRAM tech at Mountain Mayhem this June and he was next to no help and towed the company line on pressures i.e. 10% less than those on the back of the fork with equal pressure. Bizarrely most UK owners I've spoken to claim that the standard pressures are fine!
> 
> ...


Check out the post from me and others about: Let out all negative pressure, just put enough positive in to keep from bottoming out on big hits, slowly pump up the negative for small bump compliance, etc. Forget the manual's recommendations. Others have had problems with their compression damping being stuck on or something. You should be able to turn compression damping all the way off for your testing. If your CD is messed up you'll never even be able to test. My CD always worked like it should. Forget floodgate for now, just work on your pressures. I love my two Rebas, hopefully your testing will work out. Post back here with whatever results you come up with.


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## jcanfer (Apr 20, 2006)

Right, since my initial post I've only managed a couple of rides but the results have been amazing thanks to this thread!

Just to set the scene, I race a Turner Flux in 12 & 24 hour enduro events and most of my riding is long distance XC biased too. The Flux is around 25lbs and is specced with kit that works rather than super lightweight stuff. 

I like my suspension to be plush but without it muting out the information from the trail. 

I set the positive chamber up first and found 50psi allowed me to compress the forks almost fully. Coincidentally that's identical to the pressure I run my '04 Fox Float's at.

On my first run I put 60psi in the negative chamber and had no damping set. The forks released just the right amount of travel, had perfect sag and were suddenly beautifully plush matching my RP3 rear end nicely.

Out on the trail I found about 1.5 turns of rebound damping muted the spikes from the small hard edged bumps and basically the fork was spot on. The only problem has been brake dive, which I'm very used to from my Fox forks. So any advice on dialling that out would be cool because I found compression damping had no effect.

On my next ride I dropped the negative chamber to 40psi and instantly I disliked it. The front was washing out wide, not tracking nicely, not working on small bumps, not tracking on a steep, loose and rutted climb (about 65m height gain in 0.3 miles) and the brake dive was still there. 

After trying different rebound settings I wasn't getting anywhere so I went back to my first config (60psi in the negative chamber) and enjoyed the remainder of my ride!

So all in I'm really happy with the fork, it works well going up, down and across, I'm loving the plushness (it is as good as my Fox Float's now!) and all I need to do is to try and work on the brake dive.

Thanks for all the tips!


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

jcanfer,

Glad to here you have found yourself a good setting to use. Just out of interest, how much do you weigh?

Re brake dive, not sure which version of the Reba you have, but try turning the floodgate knob clockwise a couple of turns from full open (if memory serves and you have an SL model, you will have to use the rebound knob or an allen key to achieve this - refer to your manual if necessary).

Then dial in some compression damping - it will affect the plushness of the ride slightly, but should go some way to reducing the brake dive you speak of. What the right settings are ony you can decide, but hopefully this should give you something to start with.

Cheers,

P.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

For the brake dive use the Motion Control, it really helps a lot and you can set the "blow off" to your preference. You muct be very light to be running only 50 PSI in the POS chamber, I'd guess around 120lbs, or you like a really mushy fork.



jcanfer said:


> ......................So all in I'm really happy with the fork, it works well going up, down and across, I'm loving the plushness (it is as good as my Fox Float's now!) and all I need to do is to try and work on the brake dive.
> 
> Thanks for all the tips!


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## jcanfer (Apr 20, 2006)

Pongee,

I've got an '06 team and I weigh around 75kgs. The pressures might sound low but the weight distribution on the bike is now beatifully balanced between the front and rear making it quick through everything at the expense of a little climbing speed.

My understanding of the Floodgate was that it only worked as a blow off valve threshold for the full lockout. From what you've just said am I right in understanding that it has an affect even with a mild amount of coimpression damping dialled in?

Cheers

JC


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

*Floodgates for all*

Hi JC,

You're right that the FG works as sort of a blow-off threshold, not only for full lockout, but also any compression setting in between. The harder (i.e. more turns clockwise) you set the FG, the harder it becomes to overcome the 'threshold' for a given compression setting - this is what Lynx was referring to.

As you appear to like it very plush, try 1-2 turns FG from full open, with 1/4 or 1/2 compression from full open. This should introduce some anti-dive into the forks behaviour.

Please note that you will loose some small bump sensitivity, but the trade off should be a less 'divey' fork. Big hit performance should be retained.

If you need the fork to be temporarily stiffer for climbs, hammerring, etc, you can quickly crank the compression to full closed for a firmer, psuedo-locked-out fork; then return it to the original setting for your normal preferred ride. Even in this mode, the fork will still become compliant over bigger hits - try it for yourself and see.

Many people seem to settle on one setting for FG/compression and appear to be happy to leave it at that. I on the other hand have a pop-loc adjust and love to play....

Happy tweaking.

Cheers,

P.


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## turdferguson79 (Oct 15, 2004)

I've been following this and other threads about tuning the Reba, and I'm still confused. I have an '05 Reba Team Dual Air, set at 100mm travel. I've never gotten full travel, and I can't seem to get the correct sag (20mm) no matter what I do.

With no air in the negative, there is no sag whatsoever. I add -ve pressure bit by bit, and even at 50 +ve 50 -ve, I only get 15mm sag. I haven't ridden this setting yet. (I weigh 130-135 lbs geared up). It seems that I'm not able to get correct sag without having -ve pressure surpass +ve. This would seem to contradict what anden was saying in this or another thread about keeping +ve higher than -ve.

I've also noticed that as -ve pressure is greater than +ve, the amount of exposed stanchion decreases (which makes sense).


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

*Correct sag is measured RTR on the bike*

Dude,

Not sure if you're already doing this, so apologies in advance. Correct sag measurement has to be done with you fully kitted ready-to-ride sitting on the bike. Do a search on the boards on the correct way to determine correct sag.

The disappearing stanchion when you increase -ve pressure is sometimes referred to as 'negative travel', and should not be considered as sag.

Re higher and lower -ve, basically these are 2 approaches adopted by reba users on this board. Which is right for you, only you can answer - I have tried both and am still not decided, but this is mainly due to a seal stiction issue I'm currently dealing with.

Cheers,

P.


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## turdferguson79 (Oct 15, 2004)

Thanks for the response. I'm aware of the correct procedure for determining sag, and admittedly, I wasn't _fully_ geared up. No shoes and no water bottle on the bike. I'll redo my measurements. However, it doesn't seem to me that that extra bit of weight would move the sage from 15 to 20mm. Or maybe it will.

Yesterday I went for a 2 hour ride with 50+/50-. The terrain was very varied, from paved roads, dirt roads, smooth rock, bog, and loose, rocky dirt. No jumps, no drops. I still only managed to hit ~80mm of travel. Once again, the fork is set at 100mm and I weigh ~135 RTR.

Is anyone else having trouble getting full travel from their Reba? Any more tuning tips?


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## royta (Jan 17, 2006)

turd - I'm 165 RTR and set my '06 100mm Team Dual Air at 95+ and 95- with the compression fully open. I am able to get full travel on my fork.


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## Paul B (Jan 13, 2004)

turdferguson79 said:


> Thanks for the response. I'm aware of the correct procedure for determining sag, and admittedly, I wasn't _fully_ geared up. No shoes and no water bottle on the bike. I'll redo my measurements. However, it doesn't seem to me that that extra bit of weight would move the sage from 15 to 20mm. Or maybe it will.
> 
> Yesterday I went for a 2 hour ride with 50+/50-. The terrain was very varied, from paved roads, dirt roads, smooth rock, bog, and loose, rocky dirt. No jumps, no drops. I still only managed to hit ~80mm of travel. Once again, the fork is set at 100mm and I weigh ~135 RTR.
> 
> Is anyone else having trouble getting full travel from their Reba? Any more tuning tips?


Less air, more compression damping. Try 45+ and another 1/8 turn of the damper.

Or maybe lighter oil? 135# is pretty lightweight. If the Reba comes with 7.5 wt, maybe try 5 wt?

p.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Well I'd have to say I'm one who believes you should get full travel out of your fork at some point during rides on your regulat trails, HOWEVER if you are only doing slighty rough trails w/ no jumps or drops on them then getting 80% travel is good. My advice is try to take your bike on a trail where there are a few jumps/drops and see if you get to use all the travel, if you don't get to use all the travel and you've hit some nice jumps/drops (1ft plus) then start to worry. Just remember you are on the lighter side of the "norm" so you may need as suggested to play with oil weights or levels.

BTW you haven't been into your fork and changed/messed w/ the oil have you? I ask as the level of oil in the Motion Control system very much dictates if you get fulll travel or not - too much and no matter what you won't get to use all the travel, too little and it'll bottom easily. This might be your solution if all else fails - lower the oil level in the MC damper.



turdferguson79 said:


> ...............Yesterday I went for a 2 hour ride with 50+/50-. The terrain was very varied, from paved roads, dirt roads, smooth rock, bog, and loose, rocky dirt. No jumps, no drops. I still only managed to hit ~80mm of travel. Once again, the fork is set at 100mm and I weigh ~135 RTR.
> 
> Is anyone else having trouble getting full travel from their Reba? Any more tuning tips?


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## johnmre (Jan 20, 2004)

turdferguson79 said:


> Thanks for the response. I'm aware of the correct procedure for determining sag, and admittedly, I wasn't _fully_ geared up. No shoes and no water bottle on the bike. I'll redo my measurements. However, it doesn't seem to me that that extra bit of weight would move the sage from 15 to 20mm. Or maybe it will.
> 
> Yesterday I went for a 2 hour ride with 50+/50-. The terrain was very varied, from paved roads, dirt roads, smooth rock, bog, and loose, rocky dirt. No jumps, no drops. I still only managed to hit ~80mm of travel. Once again, the fork is set at 100mm and I weigh ~135 RTR.
> 
> Is anyone else having trouble getting full travel from their Reba? Any more tuning tips?


I have a 2005 SL Dual Air set at 100mm. I have NEVER gotten full travel. 80mm at most. I have tried many different pressure settings. The only way it gets 100mm of travel is to let all the air out of both chambers and compress the fork. Can't get it when I actually ride. I have jumped it, dropped it, etc. I've even tried to ride it like crap and weight the front end thinking that I was just being too gentle with it normally. Nothing. I am going to try the recommendation above about setting the positive chamber with no air in negative. I actually love the way the fork rides right now and I can't say that I miss the 20mm but I would think I could get full travel some times. I'm about 190 geared up and if I remember correctly I am set at 125 + and -


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*oil level*



LyNx said:


> Well I'd have to say I'm one who believes you should get full travel out of your fork at some point during rides on your regulat trails, HOWEVER if you are only doing slighty rough trails w/ no jumps or drops on them then getting 80% travel is good. My advice is try to take your bike on a trail where there are a few jumps/drops and see if you get to use all the travel, if you don't get to use all the travel and you've hit some nice jumps/drops (1ft plus) then start to worry. Just remember you are on the lighter side of the "norm" so you may need as suggested to play with oil weights or levels.
> 
> BTW you haven't been into your fork and changed/messed w/ the oil have you? I ask as the level of oil in the Motion Control system very much dictates if you get fulll travel or not - too much and no matter what you won't get to use all the travel, too little and it'll bottom easily. This might be your solution if all else fails - lower the oil level in the MC damper.


I admit I haven't opened up my Rebas to check oil levels. Is it a simple proceedure and what is considered an optimum level to obtain full travel? Is adding or subtracting oil something that would be considered a routine thing to do when "fine tuning" your Reba?
BTW, I'm 160 with 85 pos and 65 neg. Love the feel but don't actually use full travel, usually a half-inch of dirty stanchion left after rough riding. Oh well, 3 1/2" of sweet travel is has worked OK for me!


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

If you download the service manual it tells you the oil level and it's +/-5mm and no it's not something that you'd really do to tune the fork. Once you can let all the air out of the fork and compress it fully, then not getting full travel when pumped up is something that needs to be addressed with air pressures. If however you let all the air out and still couldn't get full travel then maybe the oil level might need checking.



xcguy said:


> I admit I haven't opened up my Rebas to check oil levels. Is it a simple proceedure and what is considered an optimum level to obtain full travel? Is adding or subtracting oil something that would be considered a routine thing to do when "fine tuning" your Reba?
> BTW, I'm 160 with 85 pos and 65 neg. Love the feel but don't actually use full travel, usually a half-inch of dirty stanchion left after rough riding. Oh well, 3 1/2" of sweet travel is has worked OK for me!


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## Gillish (Jul 24, 2006)

I have a 2005 Reba Race, set to 85mm. I'm only getting 70mm after which is feels like it's bottoming. This could be a result of too high oil level in the MC damper? 

What's the easiest way of letting some oil out? I've got no previous experience on servicing forks, except for taking apart my old Duke Race which had a leaking rebound damper.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

*Have you checked the Travel properly.......*

Have you let all the sir out of the fork and tried to manually compress it? This is the only way to really know if the oil level is too high. Just remember when you do this to let the air out of the POS first and then the NEG and when you filling it up it's the same POS first, then NEG.

If you want more info on getting into the fork then go to RS site and download the service manual, it's very detailed.



Gillish said:


> I have a 2005 Reba Race, set to 85mm. I'm only getting 70mm after which is feels like it's bottoming. This could be a result of too high oil level in the MC damper? .


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## cmdrpiffle (May 8, 2004)

*Ferg*

I'm 190 fully loaded. 
I get full travel on heavy hits. 140 + 84- Uturn set to 85mm travel.


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

*My Reba Experience*

My riding weight is 115lbs and my set up is 130+/80-. The fork feels great but rebound feels too fast. I used the rebound dial and slowed it down alittle but not enough. I think the fork comming back fast has to due with my psi settings. I think the + is ok but the - could use some tweaking. I notice some use a - of about 10psi below + instead of the 60% rule.
FYI- I set up the + to bottom on big hits and used 60% of that number for -.


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## bikerx40 (Jan 9, 2004)

bikenut316 said:


> My riding weight is 115lbs and my set up is 130+/80-. The fork feels great but rebound feels too fast. I used the rebound dial and slowed it down alittle but not enough. I think the fork comming back fast has to due with my psi settings. I think the + is ok but the - could use some tweaking. I notice some use a - of about 10psi below + instead of the 60% rule.
> FYI- I set up the + to bottom on big hits and used 60% of that number for -.


The more negative pressure you use, the slower the rebound will become. Those pressures seem way high though. I weigh 165lbs and I run 105/105 with rebound full fast (115mm setting).


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

bikerx40 said:


> The more negative pressure you use, the slower the rebound will become. Those pressures seem way high though. I weigh 165lbs and I run 105/105 with rebound full fast (115mm setting).


Sorry dude, typo, I meant 215 riding weight. But thanks, I will raise my neg pressure.


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## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

*Lower Pressures...*

I see that most users of the Reba run too much air pressure to achieve full travel except on huge hits.

I run 60 positive and 40 negative. I weigh around 165lb.

I get full travel with no bottoming out on every ride.

If you are going to use a suspension fork, why not use the suspension travel?

Try running lower pressures. We covered all this stuff months and months ago. I thought that everyone knew it already.

R.


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## hammerheadbikes (Jan 9, 2004)

I have an 07 sl 100 on my spider 29
I weigh around 200lbs and ride rocky technical stuff
running 120 pos for proper sag and then bring up the negative pressure so that it just barely starts compress the fork, it's around 105

this tip is from Push..
remove all neg air, inflate pos to get desired sag 3/4" in my case and then inflate neg and watch the fork, when the lowers just barely start to creep up, stop

go ride
and then fine tune from there
works great. fork feels buttery smooth, full travel, not bottoming it out


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Interesting tips there, thanks for posting it. Coming from Darren @ PUSH and kowing they are working on doing RS service I think it's proba good place to start.



hammerheadbikes said:


> I have an 07 sl 100 on my spider 29
> I weigh around 200lbs and ride rocky technical stuff
> running 120 pos for proper sag and then bring up the negative pressure so that it just barely starts compress the fork, it's around 105
> 
> ...


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

*Questions?*

When I add air to the neg. chamber the amount registrers on my pump. After disconnecting and re-attaching the pump the reading is zero. I realize the chamber is very small and the small amount of air fills the pump but zero seems to be too low. I am worried about a leak.
Also, I adjusted the fork as suggested with pos. bottoming on big hits and neg. to achieve small bump complience. I did this set at 115 travel. Sag is very little and no where near 20%. RW is 215lbs psi is 120+/100-.


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## bikerx40 (Jan 9, 2004)

bikenut316 said:


> When I add air to the neg. chamber the amount registrers on my pump. After disconnecting and re-attaching the pump the reading is zero. I realize the chamber is very small and the small amount of air fills the pump but zero seems to be too low. I am worried about a leak.
> Also, I adjusted the fork as suggested with pos. bottoming on big hits and neg. to achieve small bump complience. I did this set at 115 travel. Sag is very little and no where near 20%. RW is 215lbs psi is 120+/100-.


The negative chamber is very small, but I usually still get a reading if I reconnect the pump. Try this: Empty the negative chamber completely, then set your postitive pressure. Next, fill your negative chamber until you can actually see the fork being 'sucked' into compression and compresses down to the 115mm line. Now, unhook the pump from the negative chamber and watch to see if the fork stays compressed at the 115mm line. If it stays, then you are not losing air. If it 'unsucks', then you may need a loss-less pump, or the schraeder valve core on your negative chamber is probably loose (had this same thing happen this past weekend, and that was the issue).

Good luck.


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## johnmre (Jan 20, 2004)

*Trouble with full travel (still)*

I have struggled with full travel since I got the fork. Love the way it ride but would like to see full travel once and a while. I am 190lbs geared up. What pressures would you guys suggest starting with? Reba SL Bual Aire set at 100mm. Gets all the travel when I take all the air out...


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## turdferguson79 (Oct 15, 2004)

The other day I discovered a method of getting full travel, though I do not recommend it. While negotiating a boggy section, try burying your front wheel in mud, and after sailing over the handlebar, check the ziptie on your fork's stanchion. This is the only time that I managed to get full 100mm of travel from my Reba.


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

bikerx40 said:


> The negative chamber is very small, but I usually still get a reading if I reconnect the pump. Try this: Empty the negative chamber completely, then set your postitive pressure. Next, fill your negative chamber until you can actually see the fork being 'sucked' into compression and compresses down to the 115mm line. Now, unhook the pump from the negative chamber and watch to see if the fork stays compressed at the 115mm line. If it stays, then you are not losing air. If it 'unsucks', then you may need a loss-less pump, or the schraeder valve core on your negative chamber is probably loose (had this same thing happen this past weekend, and that was the issue).
> 
> Good luck.


I did what you said and after filling the neg. the fork did not stay compressed. The problem is my pump. On the pos. the pump works fine. On the neg. the threaded valve shaft is longer than the pos. shaft. This demands that I screw the pump on just right, not too little not too much. Only than I can fill and maintain air in the neg. Is there a better pump for this application?


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

*What bikerx40 said*



bikerx40 said:


> ... or the schraeder valve core on your negative chamber is probably loose (had this same thing happen this past weekend, and that was the issue).


Dude,

I think you may have the above problem. I need to screw my pump on the same for pos and neg valves on my Reba, so sounds like there is an issue with your neg valve. Local tyre shop should have tool you can borrow to tighten and/or replace the valve core.

Cheers,

P.


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

pongee said:


> Dude,
> 
> I think you may have the above problem. I need to screw my pump on the same for pos and neg valves on my Reba, so sounds like there is an issue with your neg valve. Local tyre shop should have tool you can borrow to tighten and/or replace the valve core.
> 
> ...


I have the tool and did tighten the valve. I will pickup another valve core, they have to be cheap, just to rule it in or out as the problem.

Thanks.


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

*My bad...*

Good luck - hope you manage to sort it out and get back to the business of riding...

Cheers,

P.


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## TurboasT4 (Oct 2, 2004)

*Floodgate/motion control questions*

First off this thread is great. :thumbsup: I love my Reba, but now I'm learning it can be alot better. I set it up according to the manual, it felt damn good compared to my old p.o.s. manitou axel, so I just left it the way it was.

Anyway, I have an '05 Team at 100mm. I was under the impression that the floodgate? (little golden knob) only affects how locked out the fork is when the Pop Loc? (big blue knob) is closed. It seems that you need the pop loc at least partially engaged for the floodgate to do anything. I.e. that with the pop loc fully open, the floodgate setting has no effect. Is this basically true?

BTW, I weigh 165lbs and am running +110psi, -115psi as per the recommendations on the manual. The higher NEG gives a great plush feeling but I'm not using the last inch of travel, I suppose cuz the POS is so high. The spring rate is very plush but firms up quick. I'll have to try lower pressures and see if I can figure out this compression thing for a more linear feel.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*that pesky floodgate*



TurboasT4 said:


> First off this thread is great. :thumbsup: I love my Reba, but now I'm learning it can be alot better. I set it up according to the manual, it felt damn good compared to my old p.o.s. manitou axel, so I just left it the way it was.
> 
> Anyway, I have an '05 Team at 100mm. I was under the impression that the floodgate? (little golden knob) only affects how locked out the fork is when the Pop Loc? (big blue knob) is closed. It seems that you need the pop loc at least partially engaged for the floodgate to do anything. I.e. that with the pop loc fully open, the floodgate setting has no effect. Is this basically true?
> 
> BTW, I weigh 165lbs and am running +110psi, -115psi as per the recommendations on the manual. The higher NEG gives a great plush feeling but I'm not using the last inch of travel, I suppose cuz the POS is so high. The spring rate is very plush but firms up quick. I'll have to try lower pressures and see if I can figure out this compression thing for a more linear feel.


Floodgate only controls how much downward force on your fork it takes to "break loose" from being locked out. So, say you have your compression damping dialed up (control knob on your right top fork crown) or your Poploc pushed on (same thing), you got your floodgate dialed a few turns on -- it then takes "that" much pressure to blow through your damping. Dial up your floodgate, you need more of a hit to break through. Some riders like the feel of a locked out fork but want their fork to react on big hits--the floodgate/compression damping adjustment gives them this. Floodgate dialed up or down doesn't do anything without your compression damping being fully on. I think.

You know, I've never tried to dial up my compression damping to almost locked out and messed around with the floodgate control. For those of you who have, what did you find out? It's probably in this thread somewhere!

Your third paragraph reads a lot like my original post starting this thread. I think you'll find, like I did, that there are better pressures to run your Reba at. Experiment and let us know.


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

*Sag?*

As I play with different pressures, I find sag to be a non-issue. I run my Reba at 100mm but make all pressure changes at 115mm as recommended (120+/100-). After dialing back to 100mm, I find sag to be very little. Am I doing something wrong or does sag measurements not apply?


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## cmdrpiffle (May 8, 2004)

*sag is important, but not critical in the exact amounts*

Sag functions to give a 'preset' amount of rebound (without having to be compressed first)
and a cure for stiction lock.
If you don't have exactly 25%, I wouldn't sweat it too much. I run about a half cm. of sag on my Reba, and that's fine for me. I also prefer higher air pressure for a firmer fork. 
One thing I have found as pretty bulletproof for whatever +pressure you use is the 60% rule for the -neg pressure.
I run +140/-84, and I weigh maybe 195 or so fully loaded. The 'numbers' suggest a setting of +120/-78 for that weight (60% of body weight for positive/60% of positive press for the negative) I've run the fork at exactly that, and lower as well. Depends on the kind of riding you're doing. That's the cool thing about the Reba and all of its adjustability. You can have a completely new/different fork on every ride if you like.
Right now, I'm climbing. I got a new altimeter in Aug., and have been chasing vertical feet. As such, the majority of my time on a bike for the last 6 weeks has been climbing Tractor/Buzzard etc. out here in Demo. It's a lot of stand up and hammer climb, so I'm really happy with the higher air setting. 
If I wanted a plusher fork, I'd knock off some of the pressure.

I've got a 06 Reba Team, air UTurn, with the poplock adjust. I'm adjusting settings CONSTANTLY while riding. I love it. I'll fiddle with the setting and think I've just found the new perfect fork. 2 days later, it's on to some other setting.

My only gripe is the quality of the poplock adjust. It's crap. Mine broke a couple weeks ago for the last time. Now, it's a poplock, as the stupid blue aluminum wheel came off for the last time. That's cool, now it's locked, or full open. Haven't been too upset with the lack of compression adjust because I've basically only been climbing.
I'll pay the money for a new poplock in a few weeks........but until then....

Cheers


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## fsrxc (Jan 31, 2004)

johnmre said:


> I have struggled with full travel since I got the fork. Love the way it ride but would like to see full travel once and a while. I am 190lbs geared up. What pressures would you guys suggest starting with? Reba SL Bual Aire set at 100mm. Gets all the travel when I take all the air out...


Try reducing positive pressure a bit at a time (maybe take out 10psi to start with), until you can just hit full travel, then reduce the negative pressure if needed (if it's a bit mushy with lower positive pressure).


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

*115 or 100?*

I ride my Reba U-turn at 100mm. Do I make my psi adjustments at 115 or 100mm?


----------



## RSutton1223 (Aug 22, 2006)

Make them at 115


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

*More + than -?*

I adjusted the pos to 115-120 which is where I use full travel. Now adjusting the neg to within 5lbs less than pos should give me maximum small bump sensitivity. I don't find this to be the case, still alittle harsh. Either pos is too high or I will have to try the more neg than pos. Opinions?


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## RSutton1223 (Aug 22, 2006)

I set the - more than the + and it makes it super plush. Try that out.

175-180 lbs depending on what day it is running 120 - pressure and 110-115 + pressure.


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

*Next step?*

I have established that 120+ is where I bottom on big hits. I tried the higher + than neg and found that I had bad small bump compliance. Today I tried the higher - than +
(120+/125-) and found much better small bump compliance but alittle mushy and unballanced compared to the rear suspension. I agree, on paper, with the higher + than - theory but it seems to sacrifice plushness. Am I doing something wrong?


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*it's a compromise*



bikenut316 said:


> I have established that 120+ is where I bottom on big hits. I tried the higher + than neg and found that I had bad small bump compliance. Today I tried the higher - than +
> (120+/125-) and found much better small bump compliance but alittle mushy and unballanced compared to the rear suspension. I agree, on paper, with the higher + than - theory but it seems to sacrifice plushness. Am I doing something wrong?


I guess it all depends on what you consider plush/mushy/unbalanced. I did find that when I pumped up the - more than the + small bump compliance went way up, but it rode farther down in its travel and ramped up real fast resulting in not getting full travel. It took me a coupla hours messing with pressures while on a square mile of slickrock out near Moab to come up with a good balance of what I wanted the Reba to do. Just enough SBC combined with nearly full travel. No fork is gonna do all things perfectly all the time--it's always a compromise.

As long as you're experimenting with all ranges and combinations of - and + pressures you're bound to stumble onto the compromise you like best. And play with the compression damping.


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## cory stam (Sep 13, 2006)

how do u adjust the rebas travel?


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

cory stam said:


> how do u adjust the rebas travel?


I'm assuming that you are referring to a non-U turn model. You will require to remove (to increase travel) or add (to decrease travel) spacers inside the left fork leg. In order to do this, you will require to disassemble the fork - refer to the REBA service manuals at the rockshox website. If you are not confident/have no desire to be messing about, I'm sure a competent LBS will be able to assist.

Cheers,

P.


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## cory stam (Sep 13, 2006)

Hey thanks man. I actually got it figured out, just like u said left fork. The only prob i ran into is that u have to run like an ounce of 15 weight oil in the right leg stanchion. I had to go to a motorcylce shop to get 15 wt. But hey whatever its running awesome. Im really stoked to see how it will feel with 115 of travel compared to the 80 mil before. 

Cheers


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

*Fork Oil*

Cory,

The REBA needs varying amounts of 5wt and 15wt fork oil in the various parts of the left and right lowers/stanchions to ensure correct function. As I recall, it is 15cc of 15wt oil in both the left and right lowers, which basically performs as lube for the semi-bath system.

Anyhows, hope you enjoy the fruits of your labour and have a good ride.

Cheers,

P.


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## 40hills (Apr 24, 2006)

*Riding in the locked mode*

I've been riding my REBA for about 6 months and finally got around to riding it with the MC at 100% closed (on), but with very low gate threshold. I also lowered my pressures in both the + and - negative chambers a bit.

While a single ride on one trail isn't enough to draw a definitive conclusion or to really fine tune the settings, I did really like the way the fork performed. It was a solid platform, but just like it's supposed to do, provided plenty of cushion when I needed it. Once I hit a big enough bump, rock, or root, the gate opened and I was able to get good travel out of the fork.

I ride XC with an RP3 rear shock in the #2 PP position and the REBA set in the locked mode with a light gate setting was a great match for it. Several times I intentionally stood up and hammered hard on a climb and the fork was solid enough to barely move under me.

So far I like it a lot in this mode and will definitely keep trying it like this :thumbsup:

FYI, I weigh about 140 and only had about 80psi in both chambers. Tomorrow I will probably try it with 70/70psi and see how it goes. The great thing about the locked mode with a light gate setting is that you can run low pressures, yet not have a bouncy fork.

EDIT: the MC can be unlocked/opened for long downhills to have a super plush ride. This is how MBA magazine supposedly rode a Trek fuel they tested recently... they left it mostly locked, and then unlocked it for the downhills. The trails I mostly ride are too rolling to bother locking and unlocking for the ups and downs, so I figure I'll leave it locked nearly 100% of the time... until I make a weekend trip to the mountains.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

LMAO  Wow no wonder you felt no bob when you stood up and hammered  Those pressures are about what I run in my REBA and I weigh 170+ without gear and about 180-185 w/ gear. I think you will find the 70PSI for the POS very much plusher, don't know about running equal pressures for both POS and NEG, I prefer slightlly lower NEG - 70-75% max



Rich A. said:


> ....................I ride XC with an RP3 rear shock in the #2 PP position and the REBA set in the locked mode with a light gate setting was a great match for it. Several times I intentionally stood up and hammered hard on a climb and the fork was solid enough to barely move under me.
> 
> So far I like it a lot in this mode and will definitely keep trying it like this :thumbsup:
> 
> ...


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## 40hills (Apr 24, 2006)

*It's not THAT funny*



LyNx said:


> LMAO  Wow no wonder you felt no bob when you stood up and hammered  Those pressures are about what I run in my REBA and I weigh 170+ without gear and about 180-185 w/ gear. I think you will find the 70PSI for the POS very much plusher, don't know about running equal pressures for both POS and NEG, I prefer slightlly lower NEG - 70-75% max


... you would have really been laughing to know that I used to run it at 110psi, just like the sticker says... not for long though.

I suspect that the sag will be too much at 70+/70-, so will likely try 70+/60- or some other combo as well. :thumbsup:


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

My riding weight is 210-215lbs and I am running 120+/120-. I tried a lower neg and found it harsh and a higher neg and found it too soft. Still experimenting.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*So, what's the verdict?*

I still like my Reba, but it's not like I've ridden it side by side with other similar forks (that would be fun!) Has anyone out there recently compared the Reba with other forks? What I'm asking is opinions of those who have gone through all the fine tuning tips this thread has offered then ridden extensively on some other fork.


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

xcguy said:


> I still like my Reba, but it's not like I've ridden it side by side with other similar forks (that would be fun!) Has anyone out there recently compared the Reba with other forks? What I'm asking is opinions of those who have gone through all the fine tuning tips this thread has offered then ridden extensively on some other fork.


I owned both Fox 100 RL and 100X. The Reba is better than both of them.


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## The Great Stonk (Dec 13, 2006)

bikenut316 said:


> My riding weight is 210-215lbs and I am running 120+/120-. I tried a lower neg and found it harsh and a higher neg and found it too soft. Still experimenting.


you have to remember that dropping the negative alone will reduce sag and ruin your ride, you have to drop both pressures - but drop the negative more then the positive.

you say you usually run 120+ 120-, i suggest you try 105+ 90- as a starting point.

i like to think of the opposing pressures as a ratio. the closer they are to 1:1 the more ramp up and less travel you get.

running 0 (or very very low) negative would give a much much flatter spring curve, but would result in a fork that constantly bottoms out, and then tops out.

im still experimenting with my own reba and revelation, but i believe the ratio that makes ME happy is around 4:3, or 75% with sag at about 25%

i weight around 170 in my gear, a 4:3 ratio at 25% sag gives me pressures of aprox 90+ and 70-. in this setting i can get all but the last 5mm of travel when landing hard, the fork is completly active in the full open mode, and i simply tune out any brake dive via a mix of gate and compression. and hey presto! im a happy bunny.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*what he said*



The Great Stonk said:


> you have to remember that dropping the negative alone will reduce sag and ruin your ride, you have to drop both pressures - but drop the negative more then the positive.
> 
> you say you usually run 120+ 120-, i suggest you try 105+ 90- as a starting point.
> 
> ...


I'm about 160 and run almost the same pressures as you. Maybe 5 lbs less each. And tune out brake dive like you do. So far it seems about as ideal as a fork can be, given that I'm not striving for the perfect fork, am not a DH rider and only really need 4" of travel. Wouldn't it be instructive to wave a magic wand and suddenly you've got some kinda Fox fork down there and then ride the same trail. Same for a 'Zoke etc, all dialed in, to just see the difference between them. Oh, well, I'll take my Reba as it is. BTW, I scored this '05 Reba (and another '05 SL as well) from Wheel World early in 2006 for $269 each. Such a deal. If I'd have paid close to Fox prices from the beginning I probably would have been wondering more what a Fox would ride like. But for maybe $250-$350 less I've been very satisfied. Can't wait for the blizzard here in Colorado to melt away so I can ride again. Maybe March!


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

The Great Stonk said:


> you have to remember that dropping the negative alone will reduce sag and ruin your ride, you have to drop both pressures - but drop the negative more then the positive.
> 
> you say you usually run 120+ 120-, i suggest you try 105+ 90- as a starting point.
> 
> ...


I don't run 120/120 anymore. I am now running 130+/115-. I am going to lower the +/- alittle to access the remaining travel, approx 10-15mm. I am also gravitating towards a 75% ratio.


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

xcguy said:


> I'm about 160 and run almost the same pressures as you. Maybe 5 lbs less each. And tune out brake dive like you do. So far it seems about as ideal as a fork can be, given that I'm not striving for the perfect fork, am not a DH rider and only really need 4" of travel. Wouldn't it be instructive to wave a magic wand and suddenly you've got some kinda Fox fork down there and then ride the same trail. Same for a 'Zoke etc, all dialed in, to just see the difference between them. Oh, well, I'll take my Reba as it is. BTW, I scored this '05 Reba (and another '05 SL as well) from Wheel World early in 2006 for $269 each. Such a deal. If I'd have paid close to Fox prices from the beginning I probably would have been wondering more what a Fox would ride like. But for maybe $250-$350 less I've been very satisfied. Can't wait for the blizzard here in Colorado to melt away so I can ride again. Maybe March!


Having owned two Fox forks(RL,X), I think the Reba is as good if not better in every way. It is definitly alot more tunable. If you are really interested, I can explain what I did'nt like about each Fox. The Reba is not a cheaper substitute for a Fox but an equal that is not overpriced.


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

*Flood gate and motion control*

I have yet to use this feature. I was worried that it would throw off the feel of my psi settings especially small bump performance. I now find that I miss the stand and hammer ability of my Fox 100x. Can I have both? I am also not a fan of switching levers while riding. I like to set and forget.


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## bgood (Jan 28, 2006)

*Reba Race - Once More With Feeling*

Nothing beats your own experiments for shock tuning - plus a least a crude idea of what each adjustment does. I weigh 200 lbs with full gear and ride a GF Paragon with Reba Race fork - mostly on rails to trails - no big hits, and roads.

Shock Objectives: my objective is to get good small bump compliance but without too much bob and good lockout when desired. Long travel is not so important. After experimenting with extreme and in-between settings (which I encourage you to do so you can feel what each adjustment does) here's how I think about it and the settings I've got currently.

As oriented from riding position:

TOP RIGHT just above the lockout (affects amount of bob when fork is locked out). I set this full clockwise so the fork is a stiff as possible when locked out. When you want it stiff, stiff is good for pedaling efficiency. Back it out one or more turns if you want a little more compliance when locked out.

BOTTOM RIGHT (compression damping). Try the extremes of fast reacting to slow reacting. I like a little damping so I go a few turns back from the fastest setting.

TOP LEFT (positive pressure sets the overall stiffness of the shock). Here the tradeoff is between plushness (lower pressure) on the one hand, and less bob and brake dive when not locked out (higher pressure) on the other. Set this before setting the negative pressure and with negative pressure at zero. At a riding weight of 200 lbs I set this at 120 which is not too stiff but not too much unlocked bob or brake dive either.

BOTTOM LEFT (negative pressure affects initial plushness). I set this at 130 which is a bit more than the positive pressure to get initial plushness on easy trails.

Try adjusting your shocks again, this time with feeling. It's easy to do at home by just working the shocks with your arms after trying some extreme positions for each setting and then backing off till you get the feel you want.

The hardest settings are the positive and negative pressures because you have to decide on the OVERALL LEVEL for positive pressure and then decide whether ot set the negative pressue the SAME, a bit LESS, or a bit MORE than the positive.

At-home experiements will allow you to feel what each setting does and suggest initial settings. Actual riding will suggest modifications to make.


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## The Great Stonk (Dec 13, 2006)

bottom of right leg is *rebound* damping.

and setting neg pressure higher then positive does nothing to improve small bump  it just sucks the fork down. youd probably get much better small bump running 110/115 positive and 100/105 negative.


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## 40hills (Apr 24, 2006)

*agreed! high neg pressure doesn't help small bump*



The Great Stonk said:


> bottom of right leg is *rebound* damping.
> 
> and setting neg pressure higher then positive does nothing to improve small bump  it just sucks the fork down. youd probably get much better small bump running 110/115 positive and 100/105 negative.


AGREED! It's nice to see that this is becoming apparent... "setting neg pressure higher then positive does nothing to improve small bump."

In fact, I'm finding that setting neg pressure = positive pressure STILL sucks the fork down a little bit (like 1/8"-1/4")... so I now put 10psi more in the pos chamber.

I've settled in on 90psi pos, 80psi neg and am getting within 1/2" of bottoming the fork on some rides... can't get too much better than that.


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## bgood (Jan 28, 2006)

*Lower pressures = more bob?*

I'll try a much lower positive pressure with negative pressure even lower by 10. I believe this will give me more shock travel (and maybe more small bump compliance) but with the probable penalty of more pedal induced bob when not locked out. I may be willing to give up some travel to get less bob. But I'll try it. I like to experiment.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*Reba=experimenting*



bgood said:


> I'll try a much lower positive pressure with negative pressure even lower by 10. I believe this will give me more shock travel (and maybe more small bump compliance) but with the probable penalty of more pedal induced bob when not locked out. I may be willing to give up some travel to get less bob. But I'll try it. I like to experiment.


I started this thread almost a year ago in hopes that if I stumbled upon the perfect Reba setup I could pass it on to you good folks, or the other way around. There's a lot to read here and I'm going to read this entire thread all the way through again. Some truths have become evident such as the pos should be higher than the neg, Rockshox's recommended pressures are too high and the most evident truth is that everyone here has their own idea of what is ideal for them. Their riding style, their weight and their expectations all come into play.

In my own experimenting I've sort of concluded that you can't make the Reba do EVERYTHING: you know, absolutely full travel but not squishy, no bobbing without ever using the compression damper, no brake dive ever--but I've hit on the compromise setup with my Rebas where I can pump both chambers up to a set number and the fork behaves just fine for my riding style. And I don't mess around now with the fork every ride in hopes of improving this or that. Even though I still take my shock pump with me every ride "just in case"!

I did go over to the dark side, though, in that I'm going to build up a bike that's gonna wear an '07 Fox 32 100 RLC, and I'm only putting this fork on because I got such a great deal on it. It would have been tough spending what a Fox fork usually costs when compared to the price/performance of a Reba, but over the summer I'll be able to do a side by side comparison of the two forks. Does spending a ton more money for a Fox equal "better"? In fact, I'm going to Moab in March to the same area as last year to give both forks a workout (two bikes, identical builds). A full report will follow.

Will the Fox be all the things the Reba can be, right out of the box, or will it need a bunch of fine-tuning as well. And what will it's final compromise ride be?


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## anden (Jan 22, 2004)

xcguy said:


> Will it be all the things the Reba can be, right out of the box, or will it need a bunch of fine-tuning as well.


Two good forks.

The Fox will need the same type of tuning, minus the opportunity/challenge of an adjustable negative spring, as the Fox's is non-adjustable.

It would be a remarkable coincidence if everything would to be set out of the box to you and your riding.


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## bgood (Jan 28, 2006)

*Waiting For The Fox*

This discussion on Reba turning has been very informative and has gotten me a lot closer to a good ride. Thanks for the follow-ups. Looking forward to comments on the Fox. I had a Fox on a Palamino full sus. and though not as adjustable as the Reba, it rode pretty darn nice.


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

*Adjusting Travel*

I recently realized that my Reba U turn, although appeared to be adjusted to 100mm of travel, was not. I extended the fork to max travel(115mm). To find the bottoming point, I let all the air out to see where a ziptie would top out on the stansions while the fork was bottomed. I then pumped the fork to my desired psi(120+/100-). The more neg. psi used, the more travel you lose as the stansions get sucked into the tubes. Now I adjusted the fork down from 115mm to where the 100mm line was level with the top of the fork tube. I then measured from that line to the ziptie/ topout point and discovered that this distance was less than 100mm. I corrected the distance by adjusting the u turn and extending the fork to where there was 100mm distance between the ziptie and top of the fork tube. This should be 100mm of travel. This resulted in the top of the fork tube level with the 110mm line to get 100mm of travel.


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## bgood (Jan 28, 2006)

*Lower Pressures Worked For Me*

Fork = Reba Race (on a GF Paragon)
Riding Weight = 200 lbs.
Positive Pressure = 105
Negative Pressure = 95
Result = Sweet Ride
Thanks to this forum, I tried much lower pressures than I had used previously and with the negative pressure set less than the positive pressure. I'm real happy with the way the fork performs now.


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

*Reba U turn At 100mm Setting*

Comments and question:
1.I removed all the air from the fork to see where it would bottom. The fork fully compresses 110mm and leaves 15mm of uppers visible.
2. With the fork fully extended I add 120+/100-. 
3. After adding neg. pressure, some travel is lost.
4. Using the U turn, I dial back that lost travel to where there is 100mm distance between the top of the lowers and the bottoming point of the uppers. 
5. If I dialed the fork to the 100mm mark, I would be getting less the 100mm due to the lost (neg. pressure) travel.

Question: Does this make sense or am I raising the front of the bike past that of a 100mm fork?


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## The Great Stonk (Dec 13, 2006)

you shoulnt be losing any travel is the neg pressure is less then the positive.

are you filling the positive chamber 1st ?

if you are, does this travel loss get worse over the course of a ride ?

is the fork new or old ? it sounds like you may have a damaged seal somwhere.


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

The Great Stonk said:


> you shoulnt be losing any travel is the neg pressure is less then the positive.
> 
> are you filling the positive chamber 1st ?
> 
> ...


I do fill the + first. I believe it is normal for the Reba to compress somewhat when filling the negative.


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## The Great Stonk (Dec 13, 2006)

bikenut316 said:


> I do fill the + first. I believe it is normal for the Reba to compress somewhat when filling the negative.


if the negative is at a lower pressure then the positive then the fork shouldnt suck up at all.

just incase, positive is on the top, negative on the bottom...


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## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

The Reba won't compress if you follow the 10psi rule.


Reba setup directions are in my blog.

Try it... :thumbsup: 


R.


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

Rainman said:


> The Reba won't compress if you follow the 10psi rule.
> 
> Reba setup directions are in my blog.
> 
> ...


I run a 20 psi difference to achieve desired results(120+/100-).


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## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

If that works for you, then stick with it. I found that 10psi is sufficient and actually makes the fork more compliant over the smaller ripples / bumps in the trail whilst retaining the full travel.


If you look at the Reba as a 'coil fork' ... the main air chamber is the main spring. The higher the differential between the positive and negative chambers, the stronger the 'main spring' will feel and the harder it will be to compress.

Taking this from the opposite side.... if you have only a 5 psi difference between the positive and negative chambers, then the 'main spring' will feel softer and compress more easily.

Through trial and testing, I have found that the 10 psi rule works best overall for me.

ymmv...  


R.


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## xctofi (Jun 10, 2006)

one things for sure. the Reba is one of the best forks out there.no doubt about it, and your gonna spend a couple of hours tuning it out to your liking. not that im complaining but once you get that sweet spot on the fork,its all bliss! im still tuning mine up to know....

thanks for all the tips guys! its all 6 pages of good read


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*I still re-read this thread and get good ideas*

Now my question is: could this thread have been called "Revelation fine tuning" and the ideas and suggestions would be the same? Are the two forks (at least the dual air Rev.) similar enough that the advice applies to both forks?


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## ictoacoy (Jul 10, 2006)

For what its worth, I was running my Reba Race w/ higher Negative pressure thna Positive until I read this thread and re-thought my approach. When I emptied the negative chamber I saw all that travel I'd been missing out on spring back, and vowed to run that way no longer. Upon re-setting I'm running in the neighborhood of 80+/30- and adjust my compression on Poploc to suit the conditions. Its like butta now. I'm about 205#


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*Well, it's a new riding season and*

I've got my Rebas set at 75 positive 65 negative. I've found you just can't have it all with this fork. What I usually want is small bump compliance but three inches or so of travel when I need it. I can't get a full 4 inches of travel without too much sag, but my current compromise works great. I weigh 160.


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## Phantomtracer (Jan 13, 2004)

*I just ordered an 07 Reba Team U-turn*

Its replacing my worn out Fox 130R (set at 100).
Can someone explain what the floodgate does and the motion control. I hear alot about PSI settings but not much about the dampening.
I would be tuning for minimal dive in corners while trying to get it as plush as possible.
Would you use the compression adjuster (what does RS call it) to achive that?

XCGUY: Did you ever test that Fox Fork, how does it compare to the Reba.

Great info,

Thanks


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*My answers to your questions*



Phantomtracer said:


> Its replacing my worn out Fox 130R (set at 100).
> Can someone explain what the floodgate does and the motion control. I hear alot about PSI settings but not much about the dampening.
> I would be tuning for minimal dive in corners while trying to get it as plush as possible.
> Would you use the compression adjuster (what does RS call it) to achive that?
> ...


Wow, Reba Fine Tuning again. Floodgate controls at which pressure from a hit your locked out fork will actually break loose. Very little floodgate means you lock it out and it breaks loose real easily, a bunch of floodgate means your fork is locked out but would break loose on a real big hit. If you have your flood gate set at whatever it only comes into play when your compression knob is fully locked out. In the meantime you can dial in whatever compression damping you want with the blue compression knob on top of the right fork leg from no damping all the way to fully locked out. This is different than the Fox 32 100 RLC I have. It's compression knob doesn't activate at all until BLAM it's fully activated (locked out). You can dial in Fox's idea of floodgate but you can't dial in differing degrees of compression damping like on the Rockshox. Score one for the Reba. I guess RS calls this compression damping "motion control" but that just confuses people. You got your positive and negative pressures, your rebound adjustment, your floodgate adjustment and your compression damping. Why they introduced the term "motion control" beats me.

I have a Rockshox U-Turn Dual air Revelation on my '07 Superlight set at 125 mm, the Fox on my Turner Flux and a Reba U-turn on my Turner Burner set at 115 mm. Since you can pump up the positive and negative pressures on the Rockshox dual-air line you can fine tune (that word again) it to your liking. You need to read this thread to get an idea of what that entails. So far I have the Reba set at 75 pos and 60-65 neg and I weigh 160 lbs. The Fox is set at 60 lbs (!) which gets me a lot of sag but still never full travel. The good thing about the Fox is once you set one pressure (whether or not it performs exactly as you'd want) it just goes about its business, very stiff, a plush 3 inches (it's a 100 mm but dammed if I can ever bottom it out without too much sag to begin with), but I miss being able to fine tune the compression damping. But I do like the Fox. Is it worth $$$ more than the Reba? I don't think so. In the long run maybe it's going to last longer but my two year old Reba works just fine. If anyone asks which fork to buy I reply without hesitation Reba or Dual-Air Revelation. Bigger forks than that I don't really know about, but there's the Pike etc in the RS line. BTW, the Revelation U Turn dual air weighs 3.8 lbs, the Reva U-Turn weighs 3.7 lbs and the Fox weighs about 3.6 lbs. There's coil versions of the Revelation on up but I usually recommend the dual air versions for their instant adjustability.

I can't get any of these three forks to do the Holy Grail of Suspension: total small bump compliance, stiff, plush, absolutely full travel when needed but not excessive sag. You just have to hit a compromise on which of all these factors means the most to you.


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## jmk999 (Oct 18, 2006)

I've been running equal positive/negative pressure in my Reba for 3 seasons now. After coming across this thread yesterday, I bumped up the negative for last night's ride. Huge improvement! I always thought the Reba was a good fork. Now I think it is a great fork.


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## rydaddy (Apr 15, 2006)

First , this thread is awesome! I read it twice while my Reba was in the mail. 

I got to ride it this past weekend at one of my favorite trails. Lots of rock gardens, tough technical climbs, and plenty of smooth single track. A perfect mix. I weight about 185 geared up and started with a 90+/80- (following the 10psi rule for now). I seemed to get full travel with the biggest hits. But I noticed on those large - and especially repetetive hits - I was hearing a loud noise. It was almost like a typewriter... thunk, thunk, thunk! I'm not sure what's up with that. When I compress the fork is sounds smooth and I can hear the faint sounds of the air spring at work. It seems on the real fast and real hard hits is the only time I hear the 'thunk'. 

So I increased the pressures to 100+/90- and the sound was still there on the big hits - and I was not getting full travel. Dropped the pressure again back to what I had it at. I also started playing with the lockout w/ different gate settings. This is what I love about this fork! Once I get the pressures dialed - and I will experiment with different settings - I will most likely spend most of my riding on the full lockout with the right floodgate setting dialed in. That way I can have the best of both worlds: minimal brake dive, bobbing, etc, while maximizing the travel on the medium to larger hits.

Now if only I can figure out where this noise it coming from. Or maybe this is normal? Does the fork go from a smooth phhfftt noise to a more solid thunk sound based on the harshness of the hits? I checked the headset over and over and over and it seems to be properly adjusted. I'm taking it back to the mechanic for a look today.

EDIT: Figured out my noise problem! The headset was improperly installed (compression ring reversed with the crown race)


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## Pulse- (Jun 12, 2007)

*settings*

I weigh 191 lbs, and I would like my Reba to be plush.

What settings would you recommend?


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## cutthroat (Mar 2, 2004)

u-turn or dual air?


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## Pulse- (Jun 12, 2007)

dual air


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## cutthroat (Mar 2, 2004)

Start with 100 to 110 in the positive and 90-100 in the negative. If you want a more active ride maybe increase the negative by 5lbs compared to positive. This is just a starting point. You need to then go ride and tweak the fork on the trail to get the sweet spot you are loooking for. Lower positive air pressure will result in more sag, more positive air equals a stiffer feeling firmer spring. 

The negative tunes how quickly the fork will react to trail chatter and small bumps. Less negative air equals a less active tune, less prone to brake dive, less small bump compliance, etc., more negative air equals more active. You need to balance out to your desired feel, but that's a fairly good starting range. There is no other way than to ride it and tune it on the trail. For real plush, leave the flood gate wide open and the compression dial off (both full counterclockwise). Tune up as needed to limit bob.


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## Phantomtracer (Jan 13, 2004)

*Great info!*



hammerheadbikes said:


> I have an 07 sl 100 on my spider 29
> I weigh around 200lbs and ride rocky technical stuff
> running 120 pos for proper sag and then bring up the negative pressure so that it just barely starts compress the fork, it's around 105
> 
> ...


Just read the entire thread, the info above really makes sense. I just ordered a Reba although I don't have experience with it yet I have spent many years tuning motocross/trials motorcycles. I would like to spew basic info from the motorcross days as the tuning should be similar.

Tunning Order:
1. Always set the sag first, don't worry about the wheather you are getting full travel, (yet).
2. So most use 25% of available travel as a starting point.
3. If we follow the above threads recommendation of adjusting the neg pressure to where it just starts to allow the sag to increase then stop, we are assured that we have maximum plushness as any more then that will simply increase sag and might also affect the suspensions full extension, (the sag travel is used to drop down into a low spot on the trail enabling the wheel to follow the ground) by increasing the neg pressure more than necessary we would hinder this action.
4. Once we have the air pressure set, Rebound should be set next. Rebound slows the fork during extension. If there was no rebound the fork would spring you up very fast after a large hit although you might not notice it during a small hit it is still improtant as it allows the wheel to better follow the terrain and not shoot up(push down into the ground before rolling over the peak of the bump). If you have too much rebound the fork might not recover and the fork would not extend fast enough to be ready for the next bump so the suspension would be stiffer for the next bump(suspension would pack down). We use to have a person looking as you rode through a set of whoops as see if the suspension was recovering fas enough, on a Mt bike it is not practical, and you will most lickely have to ride a section over and over while adjusting only the rebound to find a good setting, of course this setting would only be optimized for that situation so I would pick a set of roots that I typically see on a ride.
5. After the rebound is set you can then adjust Compression, this is where anyone not getting full travel might want to try less compression dampening which works the opposite as rebound it slows the suspension down, basically spreading the compression forces out over a longer period of time. So If you are not getting full travel you can lower the amount of compression dampening, If you ride smooth trails you might never use full travel and if you lower the compression too much you will suffer from excessive brake dive and poor cornering. The general rule was you should just bottom out lightly on the biggest jump on the track, with mt biking this might not be possible as a smooth singletrack ride will not allow it, you need to use common sense and remember the Reba's design intent, It not made for a smooth race course so it shouldn't bottom on the type of course. If you were riding a boxer fork on a XC trail would you adjust it until it bottomed? no way.

The floodgate control is something I am just reading about, I thought it only worked when the compression was locked out, as a threshold, but others have posted that it also has an effect in other areas, I'll have to play around with that.

Hope this info translates to the Reba, if not i have alot of relearning to do.

Thanks


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## Pulse- (Jun 12, 2007)

thank you for help, I used your settings and I'm happy with it!


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## gdl357 (Feb 15, 2007)

Any idea what a 240LBS guy would set his 100mm Reba Team at?

Right now I have it set to 160/160 (thats what SRAm told me to try) and I find its too stiff.

Thx


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## kirbster1966 (Jul 14, 2004)

try around 130 + and 110- and see how that is. Also at our size, i tend to run the poplock locked out but with a very low floodgate setting. This greatly reduces brake dive. I am still playing with mine, but that is pretty close to what i have in there now and it tracks well.


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## gdl357 (Feb 15, 2007)

kirbster1966 said:


> try around 130 + and 110- and see how that is. Also at our size, i tend to run the poplock locked out but with a very low floodgate setting. This greatly reduces brake dive. I am still playing with mine, but that is pretty close to what i have in there now and it tracks well.


YOU KNOW WHAT? THAT SETTING IS SPOT ON!

thx for the setup. The fork feels great now.:thumbsup:


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## kirbster1966 (Jul 14, 2004)

Great to hear, get out and ride it!


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## gdl357 (Feb 15, 2007)

kirbster1966 said:


> Great to hear, get out and ride it!


HA, Can't. Waiting for the Hone crank to come in for my Banshee Morphine. This is my new XC bike replacing my flexy GF Frame that can't handle my weight. Trust me, I am hurting right now...


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## ZigZag (Oct 5, 2004)

*Distilled Version of all the helpful tuning hints*

I just switched from a Fox Float 100RLC to a 07 Reba Race - I installed the fork and tuned it after reading the entire thread and distilling what seemed to be the most logical advice I tuned my fork as advised. I did my first real ride on it and what a great fork it is. Much more supple than my Fox was. I love the push loc on long steep fire road climbs as I can jump out of saddle and grind up the short steep sections without any fork bob. I leave it off the rest of the time and the fork used 100 mm of it's travel without bottoming out. It handled fast rocky single track, whoops and rock gardens all equally well. The only thing I can complain about this fork is the pump which while small and reasonable light to pack has a very inaccurate gauge. It reads about 20+ lbs higher than it should as compared to my fox shock. This may be the real reason that everybody recommends running much lower air pressures than recommended in the manual.

Well here is the distilled version of the steps I used to tune my fork to bliss.

Initially - 
Turn off pop loc - full open position
Turn off all rebound dampning
Turn off all compression dampening
Remove all air pressure in Negative Chamber
Remove all air pressure in Positive Chamber

1. Set Positive Spring Air Pressure
- Set sag at 25% of full travel (25mm) 
- mine was around 75 psi as measured on the Rock Shox pump - I weigh 185 lbs...
- test ride and lower/raise so that full travel is reached but doesn't bottom out except on decent size drops/hits.

2. Set Negative Spring Air Pressure
- add negative spring air pressure till the sag just starts to decrease (as measured while on bike)
- test ride and raise/lower until small bump compliance is ideal without being too soft
- shouldn't have negative air pressure higher than positive air pressure
- I set mine at 70 psi

3. Set Rebound Dampening
- set rebound to the fastest (least amount of dampening) without kicking back
- test over fast rocky, stutters and big hits
- I set mine 2-3 clicks off full rabbit (open)

4. Set Compression Dampening
- set compression dampening to the lowest (open) setting that reduces excessive brake dive.
- test while braking into corners and steep descents
- I set mine around around 1/4 turn on the knob on the top of the crown although I adjusted this by using the knob my push loc lever.

5. Set Floodgate Threshold (Blow off)
- with push lock set to locked and fork compression locked adjust to blowoff on any significant moderate speed hit without opening up when riding out of saddle
- should be a couple 1 to two turns

Hope this helps as much as all the other advice on this forum has helped me.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*And you can just adjusting it if you feel you need to*

I've got a couple of Rebas and the same Fox fork you had (mine is a 2007 Fox 32 100 RLC). I like them both but I prefer the Reba for its adjustability. People go on and on about how Fox forks are the best and I can't say I don't like my Fox. If I had to quantify exactly what I like about each it would include the Rebas adjustability, but I like the fact the Fox just works. There's no pressure on me to keep messing with the fork dials because once you set the pressure correctly (for me, 160 lbs, it's only 60 lbs!) and the blowoff threshold, I never think about the fork. I never get full travel but it's a sweet 3 1/4" of travel (when I have 3/4 to 1 inch of sag!).

The Reba took longer to dial in but I finally settled on 75/60 (again, at 160 lbs). It feels as stiff as the Fox and it sure does have small bump compliance (that you can dial in to your hearts content). For the money you just can't beat the Reba (or the Revelation, a Reba on steroids).

Who knows, in the long run, which brand fork will last longest, because I'm not going to try to make any bike part I own last forever. 3 years on one Reba and it still works great, what more can you ask?

And I'm glad this thread is still alive and helping new Reba owners with their dialing-in process. I know I learned a lot from other people's input.


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## Nobodyridesmykerf (Aug 26, 2004)

I'm 165 and riding an '06 Reba WC. Also own several SID's. The SID's are waayyy plush and I love them, but not beefy enough or enough travel for my new frame which has geometry for a 100mm fork. So I got a Reba WC. Carbon Fiber is SO cool!

Always loved the handling, but thought the fork was rather harsh and hurts my wrists on long decents. Was running 105+/105-

Switched to 70+/70- for todays ride. 2 full turns open on rebound, and 2 on blow-off.
Fork was diving way too much on the decent so I stopped and adjusted.

I bled the negative slowly until the stanchions just started to decompress and rise up to full travel. I haven't checked to see what the pressure is.
Then I turned the rebound all the way open(rabbit), and backed off 2 turns.
Blow-off I left the same.

IMHO
The key is to set up the positive pressure first. Then play with the negative. The Reba is ultra sensative to the negative.

Fork rides ultra sweet now. Thanks for the help!


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## zuddler (Jun 27, 2007)

I am 150lbs and set my pos. to 90 neg to 80 but my questions isn't about that. After one ride my negative seems to drop 10-20psi could someone go through the process of adding air or could there be something wrong with my fork???


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## rydaddy (Apr 15, 2006)

zuddler said:


> I am 150lbs and set my pos. to 90 neg to 80 but my questions isn't about that. After one ride my negative seems to drop 10-20psi could someone go through the process of adding air or could there be something wrong with my fork???


Don't forget you lose about 10 psi +/- in the negative chamber when you screw in the fork pump. I think your fork is fine unless you have already taken this into account.


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## Bail_Monkey (May 8, 2007)

bgood said:


> Fork = Reba Race (on a GF Paragon)
> Riding Weight = 200 lbs.
> Positive Pressure = 105
> Negative Pressure = 95
> ...


I'm about 190 geared up and have it set about the same. I'm going to stick with these settings for a while...


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## bullzeye (Aug 2, 2005)

Just installed a new Reba last week... what a great fork!!!
I weigh 155, and have air set at +70, -65, with one turn in from the rabbit on rebound and one and a half in on the floodgate. Still getting used to the fork, but it is so smooth over small stuff. I still have a lot of adjusting to try, but so far I am very pleased with the ride. 
I am trying to decide if I want to go to 115mm travel or leave it at 100mm. 
Will I have to change the pressures any with a travel change, or should the fork ride the same?
Not a u-turn by the way...


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## chairthruster (Dec 17, 2004)

awesome thread packed with info, thanks. My question is less about pressures, and more about the poploc itself. I cant seem to get the blue compression dial on the poploc remote to actually do anything? If I spin it to the "+" direction, it eventually just unthreads. I had it set somehow to make the fork nearly locked out when the poploc lever is engaged for climbing, and loved it. While tinkering with it on a new SS buildup, I have somehow lost this characteristic. Can someone explain to me how I get back to the poploc remote lever actaully (nearly) locking out the fork travel for steep climbs, and what I am doing wrong with the blue compression dial.

thanks


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## ZigZag (Oct 5, 2004)

check your blow off (gold knob) and check if there is slack in your poploc cable and it's attached securely to the compression knob on the top off the fork. It should turn 1/4 turn when poploc is pressed.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*More details, please*



 ZigZag said:


> check your blow off (gold knob) and check if there is slack in your poploc cable and it's attached securely to the compression knob on the top off the fork. It should turn 1/4 turn when poploc is pressed.


1. Check the floodgate knob--for what? To see where the blow-off threshold is set?

2. Check if there's slack in the poploc cable. OK

3. Attached securely to compression knob. OK

4. What should turn 1/4 turn when poploc is pressed, the compression knob? Mine turns almost a third of a turn (more than a quarter for sure) and the compression knob on my non-poploc also turns more than a third of a turn from full off to full on.

I guess if what a rider wants is to have a Fox-like lockout action (either off or on without anything in-between) that's when the poploc works best. I mean, I've never thought dialing in the poploc adjust to semi-compression damping made any sense. :skep:


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## ZigZag (Oct 5, 2004)

xcguy said:


> 1. Check the floodgate knob--for what? To see where the blow-off threshold is set?
> 
> 2. Check if there's slack in the poploc cable. OK
> 
> ...


Yes the flood gate. If the blow-off is too low then lockout won't work.
The compression adjustment knob that the poploc cable is attached to on the top of the fork leg should turn 1/4 to a third.

I keep my compression dampening as low as as possible without too much brake dive,and when poploc is on it locks out the fork except on bigger hits (handled by threshhold adjustment) but not on out of the saddle hammering by turning out (-/left) the compression knob on the lever mount then gradually increasing it to reduce the brake dive and lockout.


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## chairthruster (Dec 17, 2004)

ZigZag said:


> Yes the flood gate. If the blow-off is too low then lockout won't work.
> The compression adjustment knob that the poploc cable is attached to on the top of the fork leg should turn 1/4 to a third.
> 
> I keep my compression dampening as low as as possible without too much brake dive,and when poploc is on it locks out the fork except on bigger hits (handled by threshhold adjustment) but not on out of the saddle hammering by turning out (-/left) the compression knob on the lever mount then gradually increasing it to reduce the brake dive and lockout.


thanks for the help ZigZag and XCGuy! I am o a mission to keep this thread on page one haha. just to make sure I am not chasing irrelevant use cases in trying to fix my problem...

First, I checked everything you recommended... cable tight, properly connected to the blue comp damping wheel on the fork, when engaged I get 1/4 to 1/3 rotation, etc. Now for my new questions...

1) the floodgate cotrol on the top of the right leg (little goldish round knob) ONLY effects the fork when the compression damping is engaged i.e. in my case the remote poploc lever is pushed to lock?

2) And, if its working properly, I should see no difference between poploc lever locked and unlocked (comp damping engaged and disengaged) if the floodgate is turned all the way -ive?

3) the little blue dial on the remote poploc appears to do absolutely nothing other than jingle while riding... how does that dial play into the tuning? Confused because the poploc cable should be engaging and disengaging the comp damping control on the fork... 
thanks everyone.


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## ZigZag (Oct 5, 2004)

chairthruster said:


> thanks for the help ZigZag and XCGuy! I am o a mission to keep this thread on page one haha. just to make sure I am not chasing irrelevant use cases in trying to fix my problem...
> 
> First, I checked everything you recommended... cable tight, properly connected to the blue comp damping wheel on the fork, when engaged I get 1/4 to 1/3 rotation, etc. Now for my new questions...
> 
> ...


1- the floodgate releases any compression dampening after a certain threshold is reached. This is true weather poploc is engaged or not, but really only comes into play when engaged unless you have your compression dampening cranked way up to give a platform effect, using the flood gate to set the level of platform.

2- the poploc lever action is a relative adjustment in compression dampening, adding significant more dampening when pressed. the floodgate level (blowoff threshhold) should be constant (I think) throughout the range of compression dampening.

3- The little blue dial on the poploc is directly connected to the blue compression dampening dial and turning the dial on the poploc should turn the dial on the fork leg. It allows you to fine tune both the compression dampening when poploc engaged and disengaged. You can see this while turning it. Sounds like your poploc compression dial is busted. Mine doesn't jingle and turning it, I can see the compression dampner knob turn in relation to it. Maybe you unscrewed it too far.


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## chairthruster (Dec 17, 2004)

ZigZag said:


> 3- The little blue dial on the poploc is directly connected to the blue compression dampening dial and turning the dial on the poploc should turn the dial on the fork leg. It allows you to fine tune both the compression dampening when poploc engaged and disengaged. You can see this while turning it. Sounds like your poploc compression dial is busted. Mine doesn't jingle and turning it, I can see the compression dampner knob turn in relation to it. Maybe you unscrewed it too far.


thanks. do you happen to know how to reseat the blue comp dial on the remote? You are correct, it is not working as you described, I removed it completely trying to fix it, doesn't look like it is broken, hopefully just needs to be reseated with the gizmo inside the remote that feeds the cable?


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## ZigZag (Oct 5, 2004)

I don't know how to reseat it. I haven't looked at how it's attached. Maybe somebody else has done this.


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## royta (Jan 17, 2006)

chairthruster said:


> thanks. do you happen to know how to reseat the blue comp dial on the remote? You are correct, it is not working as you described, I removed it completely trying to fix it, doesn't look like it is broken, hopefully just needs to be reseated with the gizmo inside the remote that feeds the cable?


Have you looked at the Service Manuals which are available on the Sram website? LINKY There's not a whole lot to these forks.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*OK, here's the deal*



chairthruster said:


> thanks for the help ZigZag and XCGuy! I am o a mission to keep this thread on page one haha. just to make sure I am not chasing irrelevant use cases in trying to fix my problem...
> 
> First, I checked everything you recommended... cable tight, properly connected to the blue comp damping wheel on the fork, when engaged I get 1/4 to 1/3 rotation, etc. Now for my new questions...
> 
> ...


I can't say that the floodgate control ONLY affects the break-loose threshold when the compression is fully on (fork locked out) and not when the compression damping knob is say halfway on but affecting the fork only when it's locked out to me is the only important time it should work.

I'm going to guess at your Number 2 (re-read it and you'll see what I'm talking about) but I'll say that if the floodgate knob is fully off (-) you really can't lock the fork. If it's fully on then theoretically your fork stays locked out over big hits. The whole idea is you dial the floodgate control to where it breaks loose (from being locked out--Poploc on) to suit the trail you're on and your own preferences.

The little blue dial on the poploc (Poploc Adjust) should, if you turn it enough, engage the compression damping knob (the springloaded one on the fork crown) to where you have some degree of damping. Then when you hit the Poploc, the compression dial moves all the way around and then the fork is fully locked out. You have to turn that little blue knob a lot and maybe mess with the poploc knob but you should eventually see that springloaded knob turn and stay turned. So---the Poploc adjust knob can hold your compression damping knob sorta turned, sorta damping your Reba--sort of like I can do on my other Reba without Poploc. Then hit the Poploc knob to lock out as needed. When you undo the Poploc you're then back to kinda damped.   :skep: 

One thing I've found on both my Rebas and my Fox 32 100 RLC is when I do dial in a decent threshold and keep the forks locked out, there's this No Man's Land of damping once the fork DOES overcome the threshold. So now my fork has compressed but it's not like it automatically rises back up to the top of its travel. I have to jerk up on the handlebars to reset the locked-out position to then let the threshold do it's thing. Not that I'm complaining but it really doesn't work as smoothly as I thought it would.


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## chairthruster (Dec 17, 2004)

thx guys. unfortuantely the service manuals don't cover this issue. for the life of me I can't figure out the mechanism... I'll try to take it completely apart so I can at least see what I'm dealing with. thanks again


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## [CrazyRick_11] (May 14, 2006)

this is perfect. i just purchased a 2007 Reba Race


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*One more thing about Poploc*

It seems to be a mechanism that is somewhat tricky to set up and operate correctly. The first time I installed mine I musta done something wrong because it just didn't work like I thought it would. I didn't know it really wasn't working correctly and said I thought it sucked, avoid it, etc. Well, I've since set it up right (proper cable tension, figured out how to turn the little blue dial--you gotta push on the Poploc lever a little and turn the blue dial to take up the slack--and once I figured out all this Poploc works just fine. It's rider preference. If you need to stand and hammer and want to lock out NOW, Poploc on your handlebar allows you to do this. If you're not in that hammering situation and just need a compression damping knob down on the fork crown, you don't really need Poploc. But, like I say, I've found out that it doesn't really suck, it's just another way of enjoying one's Reba.


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## ictoacoy (Jul 10, 2006)

I like the Poploc. It makes me feel more manly to have more cables than other people.

Seriously, though, it is nice to have the instant lockout/compression adjustment capabilities. I lock it out on climbs and open the fork up again on DH and it saves me having to get off the bike to make the adjustment or take a hand off the bar to do it (like on the Zokes ETA). When I was getting the fork set up, it was nice to play with the blue compression adjustment on the fly until I got it just right, although I pretty much leave it alone now... Its bueno.....


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## gokart508 (Sep 3, 2007)

Hello all! I recently purchased an '08 reba team and have a question about pressures. I read most of this thread and have come to the conclusion that about 90+ and 75- are good pressures if my body weight is 165. Does this sound about right? Thanks!


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## The Great Stonk (Dec 13, 2006)

yes those sound about ball park - try them.

im a similar weight and im currently running 80+ 60- but i dont do alot of agressive riding on the bike that its on so small bump and remaining sagged while in the saddle on climbs is a little more important then botom out resistance...


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## gokart508 (Sep 3, 2007)

How much pressure loss is normal over what period of time? My reba is set of 90+ and 80- and i check it a day later and i get about 85+ and 70 -. I think i might be looking pressure in the - chamber. What do you think? And how do i fix it? Thanks!


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## timehoc (Sep 17, 2005)

gokart508 said:


> How much pressure loss is normal over what period of time? My reba is set of 90+ and 80- and i check it a day later and i get about 85+ and 70 -. I think i might be looking pressure in the - chamber. What do you think? And how do i fix it? Thanks!


You're going to lose pressure everytime you check. Pressure has to fill your shock somehow. If you're still worried I'd check the o-ring that separates the pos and neg chamber. I think it requires 5ccs of oil every few months or so since it makes its way to the neg chamber.


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## danny_mcgee (Feb 2, 2007)

I had the same issue. You need to take apart the poploc. BE CAREFUL because the small c-clip that holds the blue compression dial has fallen off. Pull out the compression dial, put the c-clip back on the screw and reassemble the poploc. Mine works perfectly now!



chairthruster said:


> thx guys. unfortuantely the service manuals don't cover this issue. for the life of me I can't figure out the mechanism... I'll try to take it completely apart so I can at least see what I'm dealing with. thanks again


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## ZigZag (Oct 5, 2004)

That might work, but it's better to measure sag and work off of % sag for the positive pressure than strictly weight and measured air pressure. I like to keep my negative pressure at the point where it starts to reduce the sag also. Doing it this way set's the correct pre-load and removes any error in pressure readings also. 

C/O my previous post - ZigZag Distilled Version of all the... 07-16-2007, 03:49 PM

BTW - my REBA holds it's air for months, everytime you check the pressure you will lose air into the hose. BTW the pump that comes with the fork sucks and is inaccurate. I use the pump that came with my Fox Float and they differ by 10-20psi.


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## Nickt30 (Nov 22, 2007)

*Reba fine tuning soup*

This soup has it all. I have been riding my reba uturn at 100mm 138+/132-. Never had a problem holding a line and the bike did most of the work. Big climbs, very techy rocky rides, and fast smooth twisties. I read some advice on tuning and decided to mess with it. What a mess!!! 
Tried 100/100....sloppy and loose but very soft. 
110/100 just too soft. 
100/110 made me think I was an idiot. 
120/120...control back, still soft for me. 
130/130 fast and stiff but according to my indicator I was getting full travel on big hits that I really did not notice due to very smooth operation. 
140/140 just like 130/130 but I was able to dial up to 115mm with out of control.

At the higher settings, with +/- close to equal or slightly higher (2-5psi) the shock allows me to run fast over anything as it holds the line, I just keep the bike straight and pedal.

Softer settings might absorb stuff but I found that I was doing more work to keep the bike straight.

I set the gate valve so that when the comperssion lock out is full on it runs like a ridig, but it still soaks up the big stuff as told to me by my indicator. I usually turn on the compression about 25-35% to run rigid over the small stuff and eat the mid to large stuff. It is a true XC fork if tunes for that.

Good luck with finding your sweet spot based on your style, terrain, and desires.


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## cmdrpiffle (May 8, 2004)

*NIckt30 whats the riding weight?*

I'm 200 lbs with full gear and 120+72- is plenty stiff for me. I've tried a few lower settings, but keep coming back to that combo.

Cheers


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*Riding weight matters*



cmdrpiffle said:


> I'm 200 lbs with full gear and 120+72- is plenty stiff for me. I've tried a few lower settings, but keep coming back to that combo.
> 
> Cheers


The guy above must weigh a whole lot more than I do. My Reba U-Turn I run at 85 pos 65 neg and I weigh 160. Just for grins I think I'll pump it up to maybe 125/115 just to see if I detect any stiffer stiffness. At that pressure though I'd think the two chambers would be just fighting each other.


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## royta (Jan 17, 2006)

Nickt30 said:


> This soup has it all. I have been riding my reba uturn at 100mm 138+/132-. Never had a problem holding a line and the bike did most of the work. Big climbs, very techy rocky rides, and fast smooth twisties. I read some advice on tuning and decided to mess with it. What a mess!!!
> Tried 100/100....sloppy and loose but very soft.
> 110/100 just too soft.
> 100/110 made me think I was an idiot.
> ...


What is your weight? Are you 100, 200, or 300 pounds? Pressures mean nothing if you don't give us your weight to go with them.


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## Nickt30 (Nov 22, 2007)

180lbs fully loaded, i get full travel with out bottoming out, the fork feels great. very responsive.


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## Minerva (Nov 9, 2007)

*basically Ok setting , except gravel*

Hi all,

Thanks to the good advice in this thread I managed to get a good setting on my 07 Reba team .:thumbsup: I weigh 165 and I run about 80+/70- , good small bump compliance , big hits using almost full travel too. I also close the compression and use the floodgate to combat brake dive , but re-open it when things get slow and hairy . Basically a happy fellow . except in following conditions, 
slight downhill ,nothing aggressive , like fireroad gravel downhill , pushing the pedals like hell and going fast , in those conditions the front seams loose and starts "wandering ", almost feels slippery . ( above 20 km/h ) 
any idea what i could do to get rid of this effect. I feel insecure on downhill gravel fireroads , anything else more aggresive and technical is all taken care off by this great fork

My tyres are Nobby Nic 2.2 front and rear at about 2 bars ( minumum ) , usually plenty of grip . 
what is so specific about gravel? 

any hint is appreciated!


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## The Great Stonk (Dec 13, 2006)

gravel is quite slippery.

perhapse try a -SLIGHTLY- slower rebound setting, that sometimes helps the front hook up and feel a little more planted.

be sure to be riding out of the saddle and try and disperse your weight 50/50 over both wheels, perhapse even slightly forward, so if anything slides, its the rear.


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## Gillish (Jul 24, 2006)

*Air pressures and travel settings*

Just something that crossed my mind: a lot of +ve -ve comparing is going on around here (which is good, I need to try some of your suggestions) but not everyone is using the same travel, (85-100-115mm) which is going to influence the effect of the air pressures.

Having your fork at 115 or 85mm will change the volume of both air chambers. At 85mm the negative chamber (at full extension) will be larger than at 115, meaning a high negative pressure is going to be felt further down into the travel (there is more air in the negative chamber, and its relative volume change-per-travel is smaller). Similarly, at 85mm the positive chamber at full extension is a good bit smaller than it is at 115mm.

I'm not really suer what the effect would be but I expect identical air pressures will produce a more linear fork at shorter travel... Any ideas?


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## prsut (Jan 24, 2008)

Nickt30 said:


> This soup has it all. I have been riding my reba uturn at 100mm 138+/132-. Never had a problem holding a line and the bike did most of the work. Big climbs, very techy rocky rides, and fast smooth twisties. I read some advice on tuning and decided to mess with it. What a mess!!!
> Tried 100/100....sloppy and loose but very soft.
> 110/100 just too soft.
> 100/110 made me think I was an idiot.
> ...


Yeah, but keep in mind, for U-TURN forks higher pressures are recommended. See here


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## Nickt30 (Nov 22, 2007)

*factory setting for reba uturn 170lbs rider=140lbs pressure*

I set close to factory settings and it works great.


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## Folclore (Mar 13, 2007)

*Are these common pressures?*

Hi everyone,

I'm writing from Brasil, so my english is not so good. I'm sorry in advance.
I just got my reba and did my first ride yesterday. My impression about that was terrible.
After read all this good comments, I'm sure the problem is about my settings.
So I started on this journey. 
Following some advices in this forum, I removed all pressure from both negative and positive chambers and left the floodgate and rebound off. 
The problem is that I didn't get any sag (I weight about 165) raising up the positive pressure. I mean, I tried from 40 to 100 psi and there wasn't sag. So, I decided to inflate the negative chamber just to see what would happen and I realised that the fork was being plusher. When the pressures were about the same in both chambers, I did my sag (25mm).
So, my questions are:
- Why I couldn't get any sag inflating just the positive chamber like others did. I had to inflate both to get it.
- To get 25mm of sag, I had to use 55 psi pos. and 45 psi neg. Are there sense in these values considering my weight? I think these pressures too low when compared with others reba owners.
- With these values of pressures, what are the advices you can give me for the rebound adjustment?
- After all, should I use the negative pressure 10 psi less than positve? Which would be my losses if I use the negative at the same (or more) pressure than positive?

Thanks and Regards

Folclore


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## Folclore (Mar 13, 2007)

Sorry, In fact I weight about 145!



Folclore said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I'm writing from Brasil, so my english is not so good. I'm sorry in advance.
> I just got my reba and did my first ride yesterday. My impression about that was terrible.
> ...


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

Folclore,

The right pressure for you depends on other things apart from your weight, like bike geometry, your position on your bike, etc. So it is not necessarily the same as others. 

Personally I weigh slightly less than you but used slightly higher pressure when I had my Reba. Like you I found using 10 psi less in the negative worked out best for me. The low pressure you are using may be due to the fact that your fork is still new and you are experiencing stiction. 

How does the fork feel when you ride? Too soft or harsh? Once the bushes and seals bed in a little it should feel a little better. 

Cheers,

P. 

PS: what is the riding like in Brasil?


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*Try this if you do weigh 145*

Let all the pressures out again in both positive and negative. Pump up the positive to 75 then pump up the negative to 60. Lock out your compression dial and turn the floodgate knob all the way off then count the turns to all the way on. Then back the floodgate knob till it's about 1/2 on. Then just ride for a few days. With your fork locked out the floodgate should activate on average hits. I don't ride around with mine locked out but if I have a long descent I'll keep it locked out and let the floodgate take care of the hits. That way the fork isn't diving down all the time. I always have the compression dial full off when climbing or just rolling singletrack.

I weigh 165 and my positive is 85 and my negative is 70 and I've got about a 1/2" of sag. I don't always get full travel but I don't want full travel all the time, just in emergencies. Be sure your pump is accurate and you're actually putting in the amounts I suggested. That hiss you hear when you disconnect the hose should be just the air in the hose being let out.


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## Folclore (Mar 13, 2007)

pongee said:


> Folclore,
> 
> The right pressure for you depends on other things apart from your weight, like bike geometry, your position on your bike, etc. So it is not necessarily the same as others.
> 
> ...


Hi Pongee,

Thanks for your reply.
Yeap, maybe the low pressure for my sag is explained by the fact of the fork is very new. I don't know.
It's difficult to say about the fork's behave because I've never ridden a reba before. I really don't know if it's too soft or harsh. All that I know is that it isn't working well for both small and big bumps.

PS.: The riding here is fantastic. Brasil is a tropical country with many woods... just perfect for me!


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## Folclore (Mar 13, 2007)

xcguy said:


> Let all the pressures out again in both positive and negative. Pump up the positive to 75 then pump up the negative to 60. Lock out your compression dial and turn the floodgate knob all the way off then count the turns to all the way on. Then back the floodgate knob till it's about 1/2 on. Then just ride for a few days. With your fork locked out the floodgate should activate on average hits. I don't ride around with mine locked out but if I have a long descent I'll keep it locked out and let the floodgate take care of the hits. That way the fork isn't diving down all the time. I always have the compression dial full off when climbing or just rolling singletrack.
> 
> I weigh 165 and my positive is 85 and my negative is 70 and I've got about a 1/2" of sag. I don't always get full travel but I don't want full travel all the time, just in emergencies. Be sure your pump is accurate and you're actually putting in the amounts I suggested. That hiss you hear when you disconnect the hose should be just the air in the hose being let out.


Hi xcguy.

When I put about 75/60 psi I didn't get the correct sag (in fact, with these pressures I got less than 10mm of sag). Even so, do you think that I should try this setting?
Yeah, I think my pump is well after all it's new and came with the fork.

cheers

Folclore


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## OnyRS (Dec 17, 2007)

I'm by no means a Reba expert (just got mine 2 weeks ago), but I've noticed that it has gotten a lot smoother/plusher after a few rides of break-in. I haven't messed much with + vs - pressures, except to set it with a little more negative than positive with the understanding that it makes it plusher on the top range of the travel at the expense of becoming more progressive as travel is used.


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

good thread, I keep coming back to re-read and try new settings.

I have a tuning question, curious to hear responses.

When I read through this thread, I see a lot of discussion about tuning for small hits, not so much for tuning for harder, square hits.

I run an 06 Reba Race at 100mm. I'm 170 lbs. I would characterize my riding as aggressive XC. I'v been running a variety of pressure settings, most recently +85/-75; although I just changed up to +105/-100 for tonights ride, just to try something different.

I get full travel at +85/-75, the fork seems plush for the small stuff, but 1) seems to ride low in its travel and, 2) doesn't take hard, square hits at speed as well as I would like. For example, hitting a good sized root or rock at speed. So, what tuning suggestions for improving this? Less compression? More - air? less + air? Longer travel fork?

thanks for any suggestions.


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

OnyRS said:


> I'm by no means a Reba expert (just got mine 2 weeks ago), but I've noticed that it has gotten a lot smoother/plusher after a few rides of break-in. I haven't messed much with + vs - pressures, except to set it with a little more negative than positive with the understanding that it makes it plusher on the top range of the travel at the expense of becoming more progressive as travel is used.


Use Finish Line Stanchion lube every other ride. It's amazing how much more plush the ride is.


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## Folclore (Mar 13, 2007)

MikeDee said:


> Use Finish Line Stanchion lube every other ride. It's amazing how much more plush the ride is.


So is there a Finish Line fit for stanchion lube? I only know the chains model.
I'll look for it here.

Thanks for all replies.

ps.: I think you guys were absolutely right, after 3 or 4 rides my fork is being better and plusher.


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## prsut (Jan 24, 2008)

MikeDee said:


> Use Finish Line Stanchion lube every other ride. It's amazing how much more plush the ride is.


You are right. I'm using Motorex Fork oil, which I have after my Old marzocchi fork. 
I have Reba Race 2008 at 115mm. Best settings for my (I tried various settings) is +85/-77
Floodgate at about 1/3 of total range. And (for complete listing) my rig is Specialized FSR/XC with lot upgrades : full XT drivetrain, Mavic CrossTrail wheelset, Juicy 7, Pells carbon seatpost, Rohloff chain maintained with Rock'n'Roll chain lube etc...


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I did some searching, found and read this thread, and still didn't find exactly what I'm looking for, so here's my question:

I'm coming from riding a full rigid SS 29er with a carbon fork. I like toe ride, but I got tired of being beat up, so I got a Reba SL 29. I really only want a couple inches of travel and I only want it when riding down or flats, the rest of the time I want as rigid of a lock out as I can get. I'm 200# naked, ride mostly narrow rocky/rooted single track, fast, but not crazy fast, run low pressure fatties.

First question: How can I maximize the lock out, as in 100% lock. 
Second question: The fork came with two hard plastic pieces that can be installed in the fork, so are they to increase or decrease travel?
Third question: What pressures would I run to minimize ride height, minimize travel, and maximize lock.

Thanks!


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## amrgb (May 7, 2007)

1) Compression fully closed and floodgate fully closed (both full clockwise)

2) Insert spacers to reduce travel by the height of the spacer. It looks like you can add as much as you want (see other thread about reducing travel of reba below 80mm)

3) Increase the spring rate by increase the positive pressure. The higher it is, the less it moves. Then increase the negative pressure above the positive pressure for the fork to sink in its travel. You can achieve the same available travel with higher or lower pressures on both chambers. Since you want a firm suspension, higher it is.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

If you do what is in bold you will negate any gain you got by running the MC at maxx blow off as the NEG pressure controls small bump compliance and how the fork reacts when locked out and you're out of the saddle hammering on it - _the less NEG pressure you use the less the forks reacts to the terrain and rider imput._



amrgb said:


> .................3) Increase the spring rate by increase the positive pressure. The higher it is, the less it moves. *Then increase the negative pressure above the positive pressure for the fork to sink in its travel.* You can achieve the same available travel with higher or lower pressures on both chambers. Since you want a firm suspension, higher it is.


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## amrgb (May 7, 2007)

If he only wanted to minimize travel, doing as you suggest (high positive, low negative) would be the best. With lots of pressure in the positive chamber and none in the negative, it hardly moves. But he also wants to reduce height. He can only do that by increasing the negative pressure above the positive pressure. More pressure on both chambers will give a harsher ride for the same height.

Now, when you say " the NEG pressure controls small bump compliance and how the fork reacts when locked out" is wrong. It's when it is *not* locked out. Even with no air in both chambers, the lockout does lockout.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*You can make it an 80mm fork with the spacers somehow but...why?*

At 200 lbs I'd say try this: positive at 115, negative at 100. Floodgate completely off (turn the floodgate control all the way towards the + sign which is clockwise). "Complete lockout" is achieved by turning the compression knob all the way clockwise, which is about a half turn. Even in that position you might see a little bit of movement but really it's locked out.

But my advice is you need to lighten up with the paranoia of thinking any fork movement is sapping your strength or whatever. Time to join the world of suspension! Flame on.


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## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

How about locked out at low speed and plush at higher speeds? Try 120+ 115- and lock out the blue knob. Find a nice fire road, and climb 1 gear too tall with the gold floodgate turned all the way counterclockwise. Turn it a half turn clockwise until the fork doesn't bob any more. It will be locked out unless you hit something.

But really, join the world of suspension... it's not 1991 any more.


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## Onie (Sep 15, 2005)

*Great find!*

Lately, have been running thoughts of letting go of my, old trusty forx.

But...

...seems all good in here! Now, you guys are making me think twice of selling my Reba! 

Thanks for posting these tips!


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## Skoezie (Apr 11, 2006)

Had my Reba Team serviced a few weeks ago & found the basic setup a bit to hard. Even after trying to suggested setup from the manual it lacks the amount of travel i like.

I'm about 180 lbs with all my gear so i think +90 -80 is a good point to start tuning?


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*That's pretty close*



Skoezie said:


> Had my Reba Team serviced a few weeks ago & found the basic setup a bit to hard. Even after trying to suggested setup from the manual it lacks the amount of travel i like.
> 
> I'm about 180 lbs with all my gear so i think +90 -80 is a good point to start tuning?


Try 70 negative and 85 positive. And re-read this entire thread like I just did. Lots of good info in here and a lot of it I didn't take note of when I first read it. Happy tuning.


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## GrantB (Jan 10, 2004)

I don't own a Reba yet, but am seriously considering one to replace the '06 Manitou R7 w/SPV I have on the bike I am using for middling, middle aged dad endurance races. 

The ride I'm after is supple through seated pedaling sections over garden variety southeastern US rooty sections without having to run pressure so low that I've got a handful once the trail points downhill. The failing with the R7 is the one size fits all coil negative spring. Basically I want the flip of what the R7 offers. I want a firm fork in the techy stuff, supple in the pedalling and cruising.

So I've read the thread, and here's how I would tune my as yet imaginary Reba. Tell me what you think...


What I'm after is a progressive feel, I think? So in my circumstance I would probably be running higher pressures in total in both chambers with a bias toward more pressure in the negative spring than the positive. I imagine the fork would break loose on the little stuff, then ramp up when it gets hot and heavy because of the higher pressure in the pos chamber. Is this how it works, or does running altogether higher pressures just result in a cruddy ride?

I have not even begun to consider how the compression damping would help my cause. 

Also, I am really interested in any experience you may have with servicing the fork. How many years have you ridden it? How much longer do you expect it to last without replacing any of the internals, lowers, etc.?


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

GrantB said:


> I don't own a Reba yet, but am seriously considering one to replace the '06 Manitou R7 w/SPV ...


Your problem is not the neg spring its the Spv valve, can you "de-evolve" it to a tpc+ ? Truthfully reba/pike/rev with motion control are not as supple in the small bumps as a Fox Float or zokie rc2/3 or tpc+ manitou. Where the rockshox really shine though is the anti-dive/anti-bob you can dial in with the motion control, its totally seamless and subtle but works great.


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## alphajaguars (Jan 12, 2004)

BTT - this thread needs to stay around....


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## imendes (May 16, 2008)

*Lockout doesn't work?*

I bought a new Reba SL 2007. It was never used. It cames with poplock, but it does not lock the fork. I can find any difference with poplock on or off.

It's the settings? I notice that that when I move the floodgate, some oil appears on the blue button.

Should I worry about?


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## n19htmare666 (Jun 9, 2008)

This thread is great, I have read the whole thing twice.

I am a newb when I comes to suspension setup and hoping the experts here will be able to offer some kind words of advice.

My bike is a new trek top fuel 9.9 SSL and comes with the world cup dual air version of the Reba. *Q1:* does this folk need time to 'break in' and if so how long should I ride for before taking the time to setup the folk properly?

I weigh about 200lbs kitted up and have played about for a couple of days near my house (the trail is a trip away) to get the following settings. For me, I would say that speed is preferred to comfort. I want the folk to have very low bob while on flat and uphill, and on the tough downhill sections I want to know that the suspension is working to allow me to have controlled speed. That is no bouncing around, or brake dive but not so harsh as to lose control or slow me down.

While on flats and uphill sections I would say that I spend most of the time in the saddle.

These settings feel good when I am just testing around the back yard, bouncing, up curbs etc. (I know I will need to fine tune on the trail):

+ve 100psi
-ve 90 psi
Rebound damping: 3 and half turns from rabbit
Floodgate: 1 and a half turns plus 1 click from full off

I got these settings by using the following guide and lots of backyard testing:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=3307195&postcount=169
regarding point 2, I did this while NOT sat on the bike as I did not have a partner to pump up the negative. *Q2: *is it important to be measuring this "as measured while on bike"?

*Q3: *from reading through different threads I get the impression that the Reba is best setup, then locked with the push-lock with a low floodgate setting for 90% of the riding. And then for the remaining 10% of the time, while going on steep descents turn the push-lock off for the full suspension. Is this the best approach to be taking or have I got this mixed up?

The above settings felt good when setting them up however when I took the bike on the trail I found that they were not great:

a) In the rough downhill sections, where I expected to be able to turn the lockout off, the folk was far too bouncy/divey. I had no choice but to turn the lockout back on (or I am sure I would have ended up over the handlebar).
b) With the lockout on, I could not seem to get a good balanced floodgate setting; that is to remove bob while unlocking the suspension on small rocks/roots.

*Q4: *Can anyone see what I am doing wrong, do you have any suggestions for altering the above settings?

Any help is much appreciated,
Cheers


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## bikenut316 (Oct 10, 2005)

*After Service.*

My Reba behaves differently and requires more psi after it's first service. It was'nt this smooth new and would not use full travel unless I drastically lowered the psi. Now it uses full travel but does require 20 more psi pos. and neg.


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## n19htmare666 (Jun 9, 2008)

bikenut316 said:


> My Reba behaves differently and requires more psi after it's first service. It was'nt this smooth new and would not use full travel unless I drastically lowered the psi. Now it uses full travel but does require 20 more psi pos. and neg.


That's interesting; do you think it could be the oil weight?


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## n19htmare666 (Jun 9, 2008)

That’s interesting; do you think it could be the oil weight?


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## n19htmare666 (Jun 9, 2008)

Thanks to brakejunky's advice I have lowered the -ve down to 80psi and this is much better when not locked out. The problem I am having now is that when out of the saddle on steep rocky descents the suspension rides with about 5cm taken (normal flat riding position its about 2.5 cm), this feels like too much.

My question, *Q5*, to make the suspension ride higher when in aggressive xc downhill should I raise the +ve or lower the -ve? I have followed the guides and find that 100psi in the positive is about right to use all the travel (occasionally).

Also does anyone have any thoughts on any of my other queries above?

Many thanks


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*Try turning your compression dial up*



n19htmare666 said:


> Thanks to brakejunky's advice I have lowered the -ve down to 80psi and this is much better when not locked out. The problem I am having now is that when out of the saddle on steep rocky descents the suspension rides with about 5cm taken (normal flat riding position its about 2.5 cm), this feels like too much.
> 
> My question, *Q5*, to make the suspension ride higher when in aggressive xc downhill should I raise the +ve or lower the -ve? I have followed the guides and find that 100psi in the positive is about right to use all the travel (occasionally).
> 
> ...


Not locked out, just to where you hear your fork wheezing occasionally. That should lessen its tendency to dive when going down the steeps. Also make sure your rebound is set to fairly fast so it doesn't want to pack up down there. I think I run my forks different than the rest of you...I unlock it fully when I climb then I almost-to-fully lock it out on the long steep descents. My floodgate is set about 3 turns in (you'll have to do your own measuring of how much a turn is...mine is how much my fingers naturally turn the dial each time). I don't like the drastic change in head angle when my fork is down a lot, combined with steepness of the trail.

As a rule of thumb I run my negative 15 lbs less than my positive. I'm 165 lbs and on my Revelations I run 85-70 and mess with the compression dial a lot. I don't have poploc which I actually think makes it easier for me to fiddle with my compression dial.

This is pretty amazing. I started this thread over a year ago and I'm still fine-tuning my Reba (and Revelations and now I have a Pike). They are a great line of forks. I'm getting my Reba U-Turn Dual Air (2005 model) PUSHed so I'll report back on how differently I tune it after.


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## n19htmare666 (Jun 9, 2008)

xcguy said:


> Not locked out, just to where you hear your fork wheezing occasionally. That should lessen its tendency to dive when going down the steeps. Also make sure your rebound is set to fairly fast so it doesn't want to pack up down there. I think I run my forks different than the rest of you...I unlock it fully when I climb then I almost-to-fully lock it out on the long steep descents. My floodgate is set about 3 turns in (you'll have to do your own measuring of how much a turn is...mine is how much my fingers naturally turn the dial each time). I don't like the drastic change in head angle when my fork is down a lot, combined with steepness of the trail.
> 
> As a rule of thumb I run my negative 15 lbs less than my positive. I'm 165 lbs and on my Revelations I run 85-70 and mess with the compression dial a lot. I don't have poploc which I actually think makes it easier for me to fiddle with my compression dial.
> 
> This is pretty amazing. I started this thread over a year ago and I'm still fine-tuning my Reba (and Revelations and now I have a Pike). They are a great line of forks. I'm getting my Reba U-Turn Dual Air (2005 model) PUSHed so I'll report back on how differently I tune it after.


I have the push-lock currently installed so I either have full compression damping or none.

You run about 50% of your body weight, this is roughly what I am working with at them moment also.

The way you run your bike is surprising to me, why not just have the lockout on all the time? I understand that you want a stiffer folk going downhill (I guess this is similar to my Q5 above), but I don't see why you would not want a stiffer folk on the uphill. Please explain, it maybe that I have missed the point somewhere. Many thanks.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*This is how I see it*

When going uphill I want my fork to react to obstacles in the trail rather than trying to immediately go up and over them (like locked out). Also, with it not locked out there's some suspension sag and diving going on which brings the front end down which for me makes climbing easier. Sort of a de-facto dialing down on a U-Turn. In fact, the idea of leaving my fork not locked out while climbing is so intuitive and makes so much sense to me it baffles me that the rest of the mountain bike world thinks locking it out is better. 

I also don't lock it out while riding level terrain. Only on the descents do I lock it out with minimal floodgate. Again, this makes the most sense to me. Just try it and make up your own mind. That's the beauty of a Rockshox fork, you can just keep fiddling with it till it feels right to you.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

I was messing around with my SL 29ers today.

I found 125+/120- meant having loads of sag and getting no where near full travel.
So been dropping it down to 100+ / 70- getting 25% sag with this, still seems perfectly active on small stuff more so I'd say as I'm getting more actual travel, big hits are much better still not bottoming out aswell.

I did add abit more oil to the + chamber than your supposed to so it ramps up abit with the lower pressure.

I 225lbs aswell is the amazing thing, i started off at 150lb's.

Just use the dual air to fine tune the sag, set the + so you get the desired travel then the - so you get less sag which ='s more actual travel when you hit something.

As to the lockout, I run the threshold so low it just stiffens the fork out, still perfectly rideable with it on, kills all the bob and doesn't try to kill me when I forget, also good at that level to prop the front end up for really steep sections, although I rarely touch it!!


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## n19htmare666 (Jun 9, 2008)

xcguy said:


> When going uphill I want my fork to react to obstacles in the trail rather than trying to immediately go up and over them (like locked out). Also, with it not locked out there's some suspension sag and diving going on which brings the front end down which for me makes climbing easier. Sort of a de-facto dialing down on a U-Turn. In fact, the idea of leaving my fork not locked out while climbing is so intuitive and makes so much sense to me it baffles me that the rest of the mountain bike world thinks locking it out is better.
> 
> I also don't lock it out while riding level terrain. Only on the descents do I lock it out with minimal floodgate. Again, this makes the most sense to me. Just try it and make up your own mind. That's the beauty of a Rockshox fork, you can just keep fiddling with it till it feels right to you.


Regarding the up hills, I can see where you are coming from although I would have thought his would zap your energy quicker. You must be going uphill at an impressive speed for the suspension to be helping rather than being a hindrance. ;-) wouldn't using a min floodgate be almost the same thing with lockout on but at the same time reducing the bob (it should still react to obstacles).

With the down hills, I was forced to use the lockout with the first set of settings (90 in the -ve) as the folk was far too bouncy otherwise. With lockout on, it was good, but with a lower negative pressure and lockout it was much better (imo).


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## n19htmare666 (Jun 9, 2008)

Turveyd said:


> I was messing around with my SL 29ers today.
> 
> I found 125+/120- meant having loads of sag and getting no where near full travel.
> So been dropping it down to 100+ / 70- getting 25% sag with this, still seems perfectly active on small stuff more so I'd say as I'm getting more actual travel, big hits are much better still not bottoming out aswell.
> ...


It looks like you are using this in the same way as I have read elsewhere, lock out on most of the time with a low floodgate. I am interested to know how many turns from off you set the floodgate? I have mine about 1 and half turns from off. The only problem is that this provides a good platform but does not unlock easily enough. I have found at 100+ and 90- I cannot lower the floodgate any further without losing platform. It's something which I will need to dial in more once I have setup my pressures correctly.

I will be trying 100+ and 70- for my next ride and will report back with the results (hopefully rides with lower sag downhill). If I adjust your psi measurements proportionally to my weight I would end up with 90+ and 65-, I think I may give these a try after 100+ and 70- and see how I get on.

I was hoping to get out tonight but the weather up here in the peak district is turning for the worse. I will feedback as soon as I have tested.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*I pedal real smooth and bobbing of my fork is not an issue*



n19htmare666 said:


> Regarding the up hills, I can see where you are coming from although I would have thought his would zap your energy quicker. You must be going uphill at an impressive speed for the suspension to be helping rather than being a hindrance. ;-) wouldn't using a min floodgate be almost the same thing with lockout on but at the same time reducing the bob (it should still react to obstacles).
> 
> With the down hills, I was forced to use the lockout with the first set of settings (90 in the -ve) as the folk was far too bouncy otherwise. With lockout on, it was good, but with a lower negative pressure and lockout it was much better (imo).


I was thinking about my reply a few posts ago and realized "climbing" and "uphill" and every other term means something different to every rider. I almost never stand and hammer but when I have just to see the difference from sitting all the time, yes, I had my fork bobbing up and down and locking it out helped. I know some riders who stand all the time, me, I sit all the time so keeping my fork unlocked out on level and steep climbing works best for me. Who knows if it's "less efficient", it just feels better.

On some rides I have forgotten my fork was locked out after finishing a steep descent and kept riding uphill with it locked out (floodgate working like it should) and I was always amazed at the end of the ride that the fork worked so well that I hadn't noticed it was locked out. But my choice is to unlock it for climbing. There is no right or wrong here, it's all personal preference.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

100+, 70- is mysetup.

I can't get my head around it maths wise, so start at a blank sheet ignore the RS manual and logically more - doesn't make a plusher fork, if just alters the Sag position, less sag ='s more travel for bigger hits which should with less + = plusher, sure feels it.


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## n19htmare666 (Jun 9, 2008)

xcguy said:


> I was thinking about my reply a few posts ago and realized "climbing" and "uphill" and every other term means something different to every rider. I almost never stand and hammer but when I have just to see the difference from sitting all the time, yes, I had my fork bobbing up and down and locking it out helped. I know some riders who stand all the time, me, I sit all the time so keeping my fork unlocked out on level and steep climbing works best for me. Who knows if it's "less efficient", it just feels better.
> 
> On some rides I have forgotten my fork was locked out after finishing a steep descent and kept riding uphill with it locked out (floodgate working like it should) and I was always amazed at the end of the ride that the fork worked so well that I hadn't noticed it was locked out. But my choice is to unlock it for climbing. There is no right or wrong here, it's all personal preference.


I agree totally, there is no right or wrong with suspension settings, it all about obtaining your personal goals. For me this is speed on the uphill and on very rocky downhills, I don't really mind losing a small amount of comfort on the really small stuff.

For my riding style "climbing" and "uphill" refer to pedalling while on the saddle unless the hill is so steep or technical this is not an option.

With regards to the efficiency differences, we would use much more energy in the suspension if we were out of the saddle a lot. What you say about the bobbing when you have tested this, demonstrates this well. What we should remember is that this is just an exudation of what's happening when you are sat on the saddle, I would have thought its still happing when you're in the saddle, just to a smaller extent. I ride for hours at a time so even a 10% loss in energy would add up to quiet a lot.


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## n19htmare666 (Jun 9, 2008)

Okay, I think I am going to have to rethink this. Last night I tested 100+ and 70- and still have the same problems with high amount of sag on the downhill sections. I had to lower the negative to around 45psi before this was improved. At 45- the bike suspension is no good on the smaller stuff. 


I then tried 90+ and 65- and this was just too easy to bottom out. I then checked a number of 90+ settings and this did not improve. I think I must need at least 100 in the positive for my weight (200lbs).

I like the feel of 100+ and 80- just not how low it sits in the travel when weighted. Does anyone have any suggestions to maintain the feel but lower the, what I term ‘downhill sag’ (I test at home by putting my shoulders directly above the handlebars when stood up).

I am thinking about testing one of the following tonight:

120+, 110-
110+, 100-

Am I on the right track, or should I try something else?

Cheers


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

Sag is my fear, I wasn't sure if I was just having fork dive or something, sag seems fine on a flat surface, but after a input it might be sitting too far into the sag, ie the rebound is stopping it extending I did set the rebound abit quicker to try to help this.

If so, then there is no way to get full travel without doing huge drops and it'll only help for little drops due to its ability to fully extend.

115+, 100- was my previous setup but 20mm's short on the travel front, which I could do with really,

Check your + air chambers got oil in in, mine keeps going dry then the small bump dies totally.

Out tonight, will take the pump just incase I hate it.


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## petercarm (Nov 5, 2007)

From playing around with a Dual Air Revelation (not a Reba, but I hope similar enough to make sense), my experience is that there are really two viable "fine tuned" settings for my weight (200lbs), with a broad no-go-zone of settings separating them. My aim is not necessarily to hit any arbitrary sag requirement but to get good control on the bike with good feel throughout the stroke.

*Setup #1*: Positive set to control full travel; negative set less than positive to control initial feel
Example pressures: 95+/88-
Pros: you get full travel; initial travel blends into mid stroke seamlessly; really good for riding in "attack position"; no problems with dive; very easy to control bob
Cons: Small bump performance tends to be poor as sag is minimal

*Setup #2*: Positive set much closer to RockShox recommendations (much higher); negative set higher than positive to control initial feel
Example pressures: 120+/130-
Pros: you get a decent small bump performance that blends into the mid stroke; the deep compression ramps up progressively
Cons: you won't get full travel until you're hitting things so hard that your arms buckle; minor tendency to bob a bit more

*No-go-zone*: I haven't found any setting where equal positive and negative pressures work for me.
I've tried: 95+/95-, 100+/100-. 105+/105-, 110+/110-
At the lower end of this spectrum, you get very good small bump response, but the fork falls through the mid-stroke and you tend to get a spike from relying on the positive chamber's progression to catch the end-stroke; the rebound stroke is also very lazy returning to the sag point, making the fork prone to packing down. As pressures are increased, you end up in the worst of all worlds, losing small bump performance, suffering from the same poor integration with the mid-stroke with consequent issues of bob and brake dive and losing full range of travel.

I've got many more hours on Setup #1 than Setup #2, but I'm currently working on fine tuning my Setup #2. Setup #2 shows a lot of promise for more aggressive riding which seems to be the direction I'm heading at the moment, but it will take a few iterations to work out how much I need to change my floodgate settings to combat bob.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

Nice work there Peter Cam, I agree totally on your no goes although it looks like your setup 2 with more + counters the cushion effect slowing the rebound down too much end stroke.

My weekends riding plan, is little drops and rocks so big hits so going for a max travel lower sag start point for more actually travel, they felt very harsh on my previous setup.

Sad you have to aproach it like a scientist to set them up, which I kinda like thankfully.

Shame I'm too heavy to do the Reba SL 29er fitting Pike springs trick  Coil was never any hassle and worked great outta the box!!


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

xcguy said:


> (sure loses a bunch of psi when I remove the pump!) .


 That's the pump loosing air, not the shock.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*You're right, that does fool a newbie Reba owner*



kapusta said:


> That's the pump loosing air, not the shock.


Seems like ages ago that I said that. Wait, that _was_ ages ago, first post on this thread!  With the negative chamber being so low in volume, though, I still think that when you check the negative pressure the next time the small amount of air that goes into the pump hose _does_ affect the accuracy of that second reading. You might think you've lost 5 lbs of pressure over a certain amount of time but I'm guessing it's the air escaping into the hose. I weigh 165 lbs on the bike.

Anyway, what it took for me to dial in an acceptable set of +/- pressures was getting out on a huge area of slickrock in Moab, riding around with my pump in my hand, letting all the air out of the negative and experimenting with + pressures. When I finally was able to bottom out only occasionally I started pumping up the negative. I eventually wound up with 80+/65- or thereabouts. At those pressures, or even 85+/70- it still was a compromise. And quite frankly I never bottomed out, not even occasionally. I started just enjoying the small bump compliance (because they just keep coming at you on the trail) and accepting that 3" of sweet travel, sometimes 3 1/2" was fine.

I've got a Fox 32 100 RLC that never gets full travel (am I right Fox owners?). That used to bother me but now I just accept that and enjoy it's 2 1/2 - 3 1/4" of sweet travel. Like I say, it's all a compromise.

A Rockshox rep in a recent magazine article said "don't be afraid to run your negative pressures higher than your positive". Try that if you want. I did (read first post again) and eventually went to negative less than positive.

Lastly, I just reinstalled a 2005 Reba U-Turn that I had PUSHed. Their pressure recommendations are 85/85 eekster: ). The first test-ride is going to be on a 10 mile loop that is just one long rockfest of 6" hits. I'll get back to you.


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## n19htmare666 (Jun 9, 2008)

xcguy said:


> ... Reba U-Turn that I had PUSHed.


In the words from Lee on the UK apprentice, "*Now that's what I'm taking about*"!

Thanks for all the help guys, I will keep you posted, I should be out on the bike again tonight.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*Let me add that*



n19htmare666 said:


> In the words from Lee on the UK apprentice, "*Now that's what I'm taking about*"!
> 
> Thanks for all the help guys, I will keep you posted, I should be out on the bike again tonight.


it is a three year old Reba with a ton of miles and needed servicing anyway. I like the Rockshox line a lot in stock form and didn't have this Reba PUSHed because I was dissatisfied with its performance. I always have my Fox shocks PUSHed because the difference is night and day. I'm looking forward to seeing the difference it makes in the Reba. I'll need to ride quite a few trails before I'll know.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

My 100+/70- is GREAT my hands aren't hurting like they have been, been aiming for stuff to bounce off, feels like i've got twice the travel compared to the old setup which is actually possible as it got less travel and ran more sag before.

Definately ignore the crappy manual crap, set the positive for your desired travel is able to use 95% most of the time, then tweak the negative to just literally move the sag point to where you want it.

No issues I noticed and I pushed the zip tie down a few times to check, with the the sag getting stuck much above the normal sag level, which I think was a issue before with 115+/100-

Remember i've got the 29" SL's, but i think internally there identical, other than a shorter lower shaft!!


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## n19htmare666 (Jun 9, 2008)

I have been trying new settings but have not gone round my test trail yet. I was intending on doing so on Friday however one of my friends came off and we needed to turn back. I went out on Saturday on a long but quiet smooth trail and the bike seems to react okay. The settings that I was/am using are 115 positive and 100 negative, lockout on all the time with a very low floodgate setting of half a turn + 1 click.


The strange thing is that I have nothing to say about it. It seemed to do its job without my critical mind picking out faults. I am not sure whether this is a good thing or not?

When you guys have found a good setting, do you think wow this feels really plush and active, or do you forget about it as it does not stand out when riding the bike?

Cheers


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

Tuned my setup to +110/70- still not getting full travel but it gets around riding to low on steep descents, sits at a low sag point and munches rocks like a fork getting 125mm travel, feels like my Fox's Van 125's feel, perfect, keeps my angles nice and relaxed on the descents running so little sag, but climbs perfect RESULT!!

Keep dropping that negative, noticed better small bump here not worse for lower, sure there will be a point where it'll get worse though.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*What happens is the fork just disappears underneath you*



n19htmare666 said:


> I have been trying new settings but have not gone round my test trail yet. I was intending on doing so on Friday however one of my friends came off and we needed to turn back. I went out on Saturday on a long but quiet smooth trail and the bike seems to react okay. The settings that I was/am using are 115 positive and 100 negative, lockout on all the time with a very low floodgate setting of half a turn + 1 click.
> 
> The strange thing is that I have nothing to say about it. It seemed to do its job without my critical mind picking out faults. I am not sure whether this is a good thing or not?
> 
> ...


It goes about its job without you wondering whether it's being plush enough, or accessing enough travel or maybe you should stop and mess around with the settings again. It takes awhile to get comfortable with your fork but if you're not being constantly bombarded with what you'd deem bad fork movement, you're there.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

n19htmare666 said:


> I have been trying new settings but have not gone round my test trail yet. I was intending on doing so on Friday however one of my friends came off and we needed to turn back. I went out on Saturday on a long but quiet smooth trail and the bike seems to react okay. The settings that I was/am using are 115 positive and 100 negative, lockout on all the time with a very low floodgate setting of half a turn + 1 click.
> 
> The strange thing is that I have nothing to say about it. It seemed to do its job without my critical mind picking out faults. I am not sure whether this is a good thing or not?
> 
> ...


I run by the rule with the fork and well all components, if I notice the fork is there then there is something wrong, it's when your riding a bike but you don't realise your on a bike when everything is perfect then the riding seems to just flow to.

I got to that state to the first time yesterday since i've had the fork, I only got there by dumping the manual and working it out myself and experimenting.

STUPIDLY Written manual.

I know a Lad with a Rev who runs so much - Pressure cause he trusts what the manual says he's sucked the fork from 130mm to 100mm's.


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## n19htmare666 (Jun 9, 2008)

*Almost there*

I have done my test trail now with the following settings a couple of times:

*115+ve 
100-ve 
Floodgate: half a turn + 1 click from off
Rebound: 3 and a half turns from rabbit
*
Riding most of the trail with floodgate low and lockout on. Turn the lockout off for steep rocky downhill.

This is the best setup I have found so far. My conclusions are

No problems with brake dive
With lock on: good platform, but could be tweaked further
On descents with lockout off: Slightly too little travel used. Rides slightly too high in the travel when weight on the bars.

I am struggling to work out what to try next as the two issues appear to be opposites. Anyone have any suggestions on what to try on my Friday afternoon ride?

Also how many miles should the folks have done until they are 'broken in'?


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## n19htmare666 (Jun 9, 2008)

Went out last night with 110+ve and 90-ve thinking the lower positive may help use more of the suspension and the larger gap between the positive and negative would remove the downhill sag. 

Unfortunately I was wrong; this setting had less platform, and was harsh on the arms on the downhill sections. On top of this, no more of my suspension was used. I will be going back to 115+ve and 100-ve tonight unless anyone has any ideas?


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

I went from 115+/100- to 110+/70- lessens the sag nicely so it feels like I've got more travel on hits and drops, but at the start of the ride roots and stuff seem really harsh to ride, so I pump the suspension like a mad man a few times and then they become super plush and the hits are just gone, very very very very very strange, it was doing the same at the higher pressure to.

Thinking needs the damper oil changing something settling and blocking the compression ports!!


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## n19htmare666 (Jun 9, 2008)

It felt harsh when I upped the difference from 15 to 20 from pos and neg. Upping it further to 50 is surely going to make the ride even harsher on the arms?

When you say you pumped up the folk, was this after you had 70 psi for before?


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

I dunno, it used to feel harsh before exactly the same, it was intermittent and I never tried pumping it from what I can remember.

In theory :-

Pos pressure controls the initial feel and how much travel you get.
Neg pressure allows you to tune the sag, lower pressure ='s less sag and the Pos will sit at the sag at a lower pressure so it should be plusher with a lower pressure.

I'll get a ride or 2 in before I fiddle, but a oil change and dropping to 5wt oil ( presume it's 7.5 ) to reduce compression damping might be the solution.


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## petercarm (Nov 5, 2007)

petercarm said:


> From playing around with a Dual Air Revelation (not a Reba, but I hope similar enough to make sense), my experience is that there are really two viable "fine tuned" settings for my weight (200lbs), with a broad no-go-zone of settings separating them. My aim is not necessarily to hit any arbitrary sag requirement but to get good control on the bike with good feel throughout the stroke.
> 
> *Setup #1*: Positive set to control full travel; negative set less than positive to control initial feel
> Example pressures: 95+/88-
> ...


Just revitalising this thread with some new information. I had been struggling a bit with setup of my Pushed Revelation and I was mucking about with pressures at or around the Setup #1, which lots of people seem to be favouring on Rebas. I had no confidence I was getting anything appropriate out of the setup.

I rang TFTuned who did the Push conversion to get some advice. They immediately started recommending pressures very similar to my Setup #2 range and this has got the fork working properly with the back end of the bike.

It seems that suspension designers are thinking much more along the lines of Setup #2 than Setup #1. I still can't get anywhere near full travel, but it all feels OK.


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## ZigZag (Oct 5, 2004)

This is what works for me. Full Travel, Small Bump Compliance, Nice progressive spring rate, minimal brake dive, minimal bobbing.

Initially -
Turn off pop loc - full open position
Turn off all rebound damping
Turn off all compression dampening
Remove all air pressure in Negative Chamber
Remove all air pressure in Positive Chamber

1. Set Positive Spring Air Pressure
- Set sag at 25% of full travel (25mm)
- test ride and lower/raise so that full travel is reached but doesn't bottom out except on decent size drops/hits.

2. Set Negative Spring Air Pressure
- add negative spring air pressure till the sag just starts to decrease (as measured while on bike)
- test ride and raise/lower until small bump compliance is ideal without being too soft


3. Set Rebound Dampening
- set rebound to the fastest (least amount of dampening) without kicking back
- test over fast rocky, stutters and big hits
- I set mine 2-3 clicks off full rabbit (open)

4. Set Compression Dampening
- set compression dampening to the lowest (open) setting that reduces excessive brake dive.
- test while braking into corners and steep descents
- I set mine around around 1/4 turn on the knob on the top of the crown although I adjusted this by using the knob my push loc lever.

5. Set Floodgate Threshold (Blow off)
- with push lock set to locked and fork compression locked adjust to blowoff on any significant moderate speed hit without opening up when riding out of saddle
- should be a couple 1 to two turns


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

I currently have a 08' Reba Team (U-turn, dual air) on the way, not yet installed. I have been reading the posts on this thread and would like to try a few of the settings that I have written down, but was not sure if it would make a difference that I have the (U-turn) version of the Reba, compared to a non U-turn, when testing the psi's that people here have suggested? I'm probably around 170 with gear on.

Looking forward to hearing your inputs..


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## Nickt30 (Nov 22, 2007)

I have the uturn from 04. I have found the best control came with a stiff set-up which is recommended from the manufacturer. I am 175lbs buck ass naked and about 190 fully loaded on the bike. I ride highly technical XC rocky single track with the biggest drops of 3-4 feet. I set up the fork by letting out all of the air Positive and Negative and set it to maximum travel. I then fill the Pos to 138lbs and then the Neg to 136. As you fill the negative you will notice that around 120ish the travel will start to shorten from just over 115mm to on the line of 115mm. Remember that the neg chamber is small and will take less air to fill it then the Pos. Also remember that the next time you put your pump on it the pressure will be down 5-15 lbs due to the neg air chamber having to fill the hose of your pump. The most Acurate value is when you are filling it, not when you take the pump off and place back on. I then addjust the lock out threshold based on the trail. Lots of fire road and hills I keep the lock out on and the threshold close to 2/3 open. Technical fast single track I turn the lock out off. There are other combos but that is all your own preference. I adjust the travel as needed on the fly. Mostly at 105-110mm. The pressures you use are based on your style, speed, and terrain. My set up gives me travel that uses 95% of my travel with out bottoming out the fork. I feel that the fork runs stiff and very effective. When I go less then 130 psi the front end gets soft and squirly. Not sure how people run 100 or even 80 psi. Find a test loop that runs for 2-5 min, bring your pump and a pad of paper, and spend the day testing out these pressure combos. Good luck and have fun.


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## amrgb (May 7, 2007)

Nickt30 said:


> When I go less then 130 psi the front end gets soft and squirly. Not sure how people run 100 or even 80 psi. Find a test loop that runs for 2-5 min, bring your pump and a pad of paper, and spend the day testing out these pressure combos. Good luck and have fun.


Well, the pressure gauge of these pumps is known to be quite inaccurate. Yours could just be on understating the true pressure.

But I agree with you. A stiff (up to a point, of course) suspension is an effective suspension. People usually want plush plush and plush. I used to think that way, and it feels nice when you're just riding along or you're not pointing down. At speed, the same setting actually becomes harsh because the fork is most of the time sunk in its travel and is not able to absorb repeated hits.

Just a thought.


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

Thanks Nick, I will take into consideration what you mentioned when I get around to riding with my new Reba fork. 

Ok I just found some info on the Rockshox service site it has different positive pressures for the U-turn and the Dual Air. U-turn is noted to take a much higher psi, compared to the dual. Are some of the people that have the the U-turn version running the psi that the dual air users are running?


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Neu5p3ed said:


> Thanks Nick, I will take into consideration what you mentioned when I get around to riding with my new Reba fork.
> 
> Ok I just found some info on the Rockshox service site it has different positive pressures for the U-turn and the Dual Air. U-turn is noted to take a much higher psi, compared to the dual. Are some of the people that have the the U-turn version running the psi that the dual air users are running?


I weigh 165 and I run my Reba U-Turn at 90+/75-. I also have a Revelation (same fork) that I run at 85-90 positive/70-75 negative. I'm not that aggressive a rider so I want more plush at slower speeds. The guy who goes fast downhill over rocks probably would run his pressure a little higher for "control". Happy tuning.


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

Thanks xcguy, seems like I have the same type of riding style as you. I jotted down your settings you've tested, and will give them a shot maybe a little higher psi, since I way a tad bit more.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Neu5p3ed said:


> Thanks xcguy, seems like I have the same type of riding style as you. I jotted down your settings you've tested, and will give them a shot maybe a little higher psi, since I way a tad bit more.


What you're going to find is that your riding style isn't the next guys, your expectations of your fork will be different, but keep experimenting. I gave you a decent starting point. Setting your rebound, your floodgate number, your positive/negative numbers---all those will be according to your preferences. That's what's great about the Reba--you can fine tune till you're a satisfied rider.

Just as a side note: I had my Reba PUSHed, but really that's another thread. Darren up there insisted I run 80/80. I tried that and went back to my older settings. Some here run much higher pressures than I would, some run their negative higher than their positive. All I can say is for my preferences the settings I gave you work for me. There really is no right set of settings that work for everyone.

And I bet you'll find that you rarely get absolutely full travel. I doubt if anyone ever does unless they run their pressures pretty low and ride real hard. Don't let that bother you. I also have a Fox 32 F100 RLC and I never get over 3" of travel. Check the dust line on any Fox you see on the trail and you'll see "not full travel". I got my Reba PUSHed (it needed servicing anyway) and it still doesn't get full travel, but, frankly, that's not why they do what they do to the Reba's innards. Like I say, that's another thread.


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

Yea I will definitely experiment since it doesn't hurt to do so. Thanks again!


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## fsrxc (Jan 31, 2004)

amrgb said:


> Well, the pressure gauge of these pumps is known to be quite inaccurate. Yours could just be on understating the true pressure.
> 
> But I agree with you. A stiff (up to a point, of course) suspension is an effective suspension. People usually want plush plush and plush. I used to think that way, and it feels nice when you're just riding along or you're not pointing down. At speed, the same setting actually becomes harsh because the fork is most of the time sunk in its travel and is not able to absorb repeated hits.
> 
> Just a thought.


"Not being able to absorb repeated hits" is very often caused by fork rebound set too slow, rather than using (close to) full travel, which should not feel harsh as long as it's not bottoming much.

I run my forks fairly soft with very quick rebound, and they are very supple at speed without feeling mushy at all.


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

Ok, I have one more question in regards to setup. Do I pump/adjust the fork with the fork set to full travel by turning the travel adjustment knob to the maximum 115mm (I have the Air U-turn)? I will ultimately be running the fork at 100mm not 115mm.

My bad if it has been covered already. =)


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## Nickt30 (Nov 22, 2007)

Set the travel to max 115 mm (it is just a bit more then the 115 mark)

Pump up the positive air per the factory values for you riding wt (loaded).

Pump up the negative air next the ranging from 75% to 105% of the positive air. The lower settings will give you a hard stiff fork that needs a big hit to activate. As you approach pressures close to the positive the fork becomes very small bump compliant, soft ride. Above the positive is very soft, very plush. I ride at 138+/134- 

Remember to adjust for rebound speed afterwards. No trick here other then quick for a quick rider, and slow for a slow rider. Most fairly aggressive riders are 2-3 turns away from the quickest.


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## snoogly (Oct 30, 2007)

Hmmm. I'm wondering if this is 'normal', or if there is something wrong with my forks (Reba Race). I'm running 100+ 90-, which is fine for me - but when I attach the (maybe crappy) Rock Shox pump, the initial reading for + is always in the 90 range, but the - is way down to 50 or 60. It is a bit harder to get the right angle to screw the pump onto the - end, but I don't hear an outrush of air.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

Thats normal, it's just the air running into the pump's lead / before the valve bit, you appear to lose more on the Negative side because the Negative air chamber in it's normal state is very small.

Also, if you remove the Positive first, your fork likely sucks down abit lowering the Negative pressure to.

Tis normal!!


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*Yes, it is*



snoogly said:


> Hmmm. I'm wondering if this is 'normal', or if there is something wrong with my forks (Reba Race). I'm running 100+ 90-, which is fine for me - but when I attach the (maybe crappy) Rock Shox pump, the initial reading for + is always in the 90 range, but the - is way down to 50 or 60. It is a bit harder to get the right angle to screw the pump onto the - end, but I don't hear an outrush of air.


The positive chamber will lose some but it's not as big a percentage as the negative. What air goes into the pump hose will cause your readings to read lower upon re-attaching. I overpump just a little on both chambers because I know there will be some, if not much, air lost when I take the pump off. The negative chamber is real small and the slightest "lost" air will result in a disproportionately lower reading.


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## snoogly (Oct 30, 2007)

Thanks! 

I couldn't figure it out, as the ride felt fine.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

XVGuy, there is very very minimal loss when undoing, only the extra tube length before the valve gets closed, which likely doesn't equal 1psi so don't worry about that.


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## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

Fork pumps are available that let you dis-engage the pump without losing any air. They have a special valve attachment on the end that does this.


Rainman.


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## royta (Jan 17, 2006)

There is zero loss when using the Rock Shox fork pump that comes with the Reba. The sound you hear when removing the pump from the fork is the sound of the air releasing out of the hose.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

I read this thread a couple of times, and found the following to work really well for me:

Pos: 85-87psi.
Neg: 75psi. 
Rebound is about one turn out from full fast (rabbit).
Floodgate/blow-off is 2-3 clicks clockwise, and the blue dial/knob is fully clockwise.

I'm 215#, and the fork is a 2008 Revelation 426 (Dual-Air, non U-Turn). Bike is a 2007 Trek Fuel EX7, and I have a very upright riding position that puts a lot more weight on the rear wheel.


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## Stahr_Nut (Nov 7, 2006)

pongee said:


> Firstly, I would not call myself an expert at this, and secondly, I'm pretty sure this has been (probably better) explained elsewhere on the forum before, so I am just posting the combined knowledge of what I have read + experienced for myself. So here is my 2 cents worth, which should apply to both poploc and non-poploc variants:
> 
> The 1st thing to remember about the floodgate (FG) and compression settings on Motion Control RS forks is that the 2 settings are interlinked. If *either* the FG or comp or *both* are set to full open, there is no tangible effect on the compression or 'platform' performance of the fork. E.g. with FG full open and comp full closed settings, there is no tangible diferrence in the compression damping characteristics of the fork. Compression damping in this instance is basically of the low-speed variety, i.e. the speed at which the fork compresses as a result of a low-speed event e.g. pedal bob. FG provides a threshold at which the damping effect is reduced and the fork is allowed to compress more easily (large bump, etc.)
> 
> ...


Sorry man but I'm not following that at all. It was my understanding that the only time the Floodgate adjustment had any effect was when the fork was in full lockout mode. This is a quote directly from my Reba manual...

"Note: The Floodgate is intended to adjust threshold of 'lock' blow-off in the 'lock' mode only. When performing Floodgate adjustments, ensure that the Motion Control system is adjusted to 'lock'."

This leads me to believe that when you don't have the compression damper flipped all the way to lockout it is irrelavent where you have the Floodgate set at. Only when the fork gets locked out does the Floodgate setting become a factor. No?


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Stahr_Nut said:


> Sorry man but I'm not following that at all. It was my understanding that the only time the Floodgate adjustment had any effect was when the fork was in full lockout mode. This is a quote directly from my Reba manual...
> 
> "Note: The Floodgate is intended to adjust threshold of 'lock' blow-off in the 'lock' mode only. When performing Floodgate adjustments, ensure that the Motion Control system is adjusted to 'lock'."
> 
> This leads me to believe that when you don't have the compression damper flipped all the way to lockout it is irrelavent where you have the Floodgate set at. Only when the fork gets locked out does the Floodgate setting become a factor. No?


No, he is correct, the floodgate setting has a _very _relevant effect even when the in the "unlocked mode". This is why the motion control units with the fixed floodgate settings are a real compromise compared to the ones with an adjustable one.

Here is an old post in which I explained it all the best I could. It is very detailed...

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1498056#post1498056


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## Stahr_Nut (Nov 7, 2006)

kapusta said:


> No, he is correct, the floodgate setting has a _very _relevant effect even when the in the "unlocked mode". This is why the motion control units with the fixed floodgate settings are a real compromise compared to the ones with an adjustable one.
> 
> Here is an old post in which I explained it all the best I could. It is very detailed...
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1498056#post1498056


I don't know what to say, the quote I posted came right out of my manual.

If what you say is true I have to ask, how the heck can Rockshox be so misleading in their manual? It's scary to think that a company's technical writers can be that clueless about their own products. You'd think they would have one of their engineers proofread the manual before publishing it.

Does anyone from RS ever read/post on this board?


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## petercarm (Nov 5, 2007)

The floodgate setting is indeed a threshold.

For the floodgate setting to have any effect on the "open" compression setting, the compression forces need to reach the same threshold level (in terms of force). That means that the compression speed (in the open setting) needs to be *much* higher than the compression speed in the "locked" setting before the floodgate comes into effect.

Whether or not this is best described as "floodgate has no effect in the open position" or "floodgate has a very relevant effect" is mostly down to the kool aid.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Stahr_Nut said:


> I don't know what to say, the quote I posted came right out of my manual.
> 
> If what you say is true I have to ask, how the heck can Rockshox be so misleading in their manual? It's scary to think that a company's technical writers can be that clueless about their own products. You'd think they would have one of their engineers proofread the manual before publishing it.
> 
> Does anyone from RS ever read/post on this board?


Actually, the manual does not specifically say it has no effect when unlocked. It just skips over the subject. I think it is perhaps they figured it was too complicated to explain to your average user, and people would just get really confused.

But what he was saying and what I wrote in the post I linked to is accurate in terms of how it works. It is why MC (with the adjustable FG) is such a great system (IMO). There are lots of ways to set it up. I have a very different set up (floodgate setting) on my Pike as on my Reba.


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## Stahr_Nut (Nov 7, 2006)

kapusta said:


> Actually, the manual does not specifically say it has no effect when unlocked. It just skips over the subject. I think it is perhaps they figured it was too complicated to explain to your average user, and people would just get really confused.
> 
> But what he was saying and what I wrote in the post I linked to is accurate in terms of how it works. It is why MC (with the adjustable FG) is such a great system (IMO). There are lots of ways to set it up. I have a very different set up (floodgate setting) on my Pike as on my Reba.


Not to beat a dead horse here but I think the statement "The Floodgate is intended to adjust threshold of 'lock' blow-off in the 'lock' mode only." is pretty cut and dry.

Semantics I guess...:skep:


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

*The thread that won't die*

I currently have a PUSHed Reba U-Turn (95+ 85-) and two U-Turn Revelations (85+ 70-). I never get "full travel" on any of them, nor do I get "full travel" on a Fox 32 100 RLC (probably less so). There's this ramp-up factor that just seems to prohibit 4 inches of travel on a 4 inch fork, or even 4 7/8" travel on my Revs when U-Turned up to 130. I just did a tough ride on the Reba set at 115mm and maxed out at 3 7/8" of travel. Now I know that's about all I'm going to get unless I encounter some really big hit, but that's not how I ride.

I've just accepted this as a fact of life with air forks. The 4" Fox never gets more than 2 1/2" of travel. All I've said has the given that my sag is dialed in properly. Sure, you can dial in 2 inches of sag and get "full travel" but what's the point?

I've had coil forks that nearly bottomed out a lot but there was no way to really control that unless I changed out the spring. As an xc geek at heart I want instant tuneability and the Reba/Rev/Pike Dual Air forks give me that. No fork is perfect but these forks give you more control than all the rest.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

> The floodgate setting is indeed a threshold.
> 
> For the floodgate setting to have any effect on the "open" compression setting, the compression forces need to reach the same threshold level (in terms of force). That means that the compression speed (in the open setting) needs to be *much* higher than the compression speed in the "locked" setting before the floodgate comes into effect.


Yes, and, a high speed hit will achieve that.



> Whether or not this is best described as "floodgate has no effect in the open position" or "floodgate has a very relevant effect" is mostly down to the kool aid.


Play around with it, you'll find it does. Not when you are standing there pushing up and down on the fork, but if you are running a moderate or higher compression setting, the floodgate setting will effect how well the fork does at high speed hits.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Stahr_Nut said:


> Not to beat a dead horse here but I think the statement "The Floodgate is intended to adjust threshold of 'lock' blow-off in the 'lock' mode only." is pretty cut and dry.
> 
> Semantics I guess...:skep:


Whatever, I really don't care enough to argue about what RS should or should not have said in the manual. I'm just trying to explain how it works. Take it or leave it.


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## Orange st4 (Mar 8, 2009)

I have a pair if Reba, 2008's i run them at 115+ve and 120-ve and that makes them great. 
However, i have had problem when it comes to setting up rebound and compression - i would like to no the thoughts of anyone! btw it is a poploc if that makes in difference!
Thanks for any help in advance!!


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

The Rebound will be too slow to react to stutter bumps with the -ve set higher than the + as it creates a cushion slowing it down towards the end stroke too much. Drop it to 100, you'll find you can lose 5-10psi in the +ve to, then drop the -ve to @90, running 105/75 here.


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## Orange st4 (Mar 8, 2009)

Ok, i am about 190lbs tho, so will that not make them abit soft for general trail riding?
What weight are you, to be running that low??


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Orange st4 said:


> Ok, i am about 190lbs tho, so will that not make them abit soft for general trail riding?
> What weight are you, to be running that low??


By "a pair of Rebas" do you mean you have a Reba on two bikes? Anyhoo, the consensus is to run your negative lower than your positive. I'm 165 and I run less than you will at 190 so I'll let someone heavier reply but...try 110+ 95- and see how you like it. You will never get "full travel" with proper sag (I go for about 5/8") so don't even try. It's a common misconception that if a rider dicks around with his pressures enough he'll find that sweet spot where he gets a full 4" of travel all the time. Yeah, with 2" of sag maybe! Just tune it so it feels great, you get 2 1/2" to 3" of travel all the time and it performs so you just forget about it.

I don't know about 2008 Poploc but I found it to be a PITA. The 2006 Poploc I had, when I'd set it for a certain "compression setting", then used the lever to lock it or unlock it, I found I missed being able to just reach down and dial in whatever compression I wanted at any time. I don't have any Poploc Rockshox forks now.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

XCGuy, easy to tune for full travel remember you can use the Neg to basically setup any sag your after, increase it for more decrease it for less, just keep lowing that Positive and Negative at the same time and see.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Is the compression adjustment on the Poploc Adjust "indexed"? I'm looking for a way to get more consistent compression adjustment, and was thinking the Poploc Adjust might be the ticket.


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## Orange st4 (Mar 8, 2009)

Unfortunately the poploc does not come with anysort of an idex so i am finding it a nightmare to use!! Again, any advice any1??


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Orange st4 said:


> Unfortunately the poploc does not come with anysort of an idex so i am finding it a nightmare to use!! Again, any advice any1??


Welllll...I'm doing this from memory. Can you mess around with the Poploc lever, turning the dial then flipping the lever and see where the "dial" at the top of the fork leg the Poploc is connected to by the cable (right fork leg is compression dial on my Reba) ends up? In other words, if your dial on the Poploc lever is turned all the way to the left, you flip the lever, does the dial on the fork leg turn? And, if you turn the dial on the Poploc all the way to the right, then flip the Poploc lever, does the dial on the top of the fork leg turn to the right or left? Too much slack in the Poploc cable would render it inoperable.

I thought I was still going to have the on-the-fly adjustability with my Poploc like I had with just manually turning the compression dial. But once the Poploc dial is turned to a certain extent, flipping the lever only turned the compression to that point. With the lever flipped, turning the Poploc dial just didn't accomplish much. I'm Poploc free now.

I could see that if a racer wanted to lock out his fork when standing and hammering, then open the fork back up again---quickly without reaching down---the Poploc might be handy for him but I just found it to be a bother.


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## Orange st4 (Mar 8, 2009)

Mine does do on the fly adjustments...
I find the poploc really good on hilly trails, where you do alot of hard climbing (keep in locked out) and then as soon as you get to the top, you can start the rough downhill, that needs a really springy fork on the touch of the button, sorry but i disagree it is a great thing!


The dial on the top of the fork leg moves the same way as you move the poploc! 
How far round is the compression to you forks ????


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## jcarney (Jan 1, 2005)

Stahr_Nut said:


> Sorry man but I'm not following that at all. It was my understanding that the only time the Floodgate adjustment had any effect was when the fork was in full lockout mode. This is a quote directly from my Reba manual...
> 
> "Note: The Floodgate is intended to adjust threshold of 'lock' blow-off in the 'lock' mode only. When performing Floodgate adjustments, ensure that the Motion Control system is adjusted to 'lock'."


One thing you may not be understanding here is that the above sentence is telling you two different things, not one. The first part part about the 'lock mode only' has to do with how it FUNCTIONS. The lockout has a range, from full on to full off, and everywhere in-between. For 2006, at least, the REBA and RVL (what I have) use the same manual. I found your quote in the manual, but on the following pages it details how the compression lockout works. Full CCW is off, ie, no lockout. Full CW is full on, ie, full compression lockout (this is depending on the next part of the statement in question). You can use the compression lockout feature in full off, full on, or any where in between.

The 2nd part of the statement refers to how to SET the floodgate properly. When making adjustments, you SHOULD only make adjustments in the FULL ON or full clockwise (CW) position, as only in this position will your Floodgate adjustments have full force (the adjustments fall off to zero the closer you move to full CCW, or full off position).

So, to make adjustments, use full on or all the way clockwise. To USE the compression/floodgate settings, move the lockout to whatever position you like, but it won't have the full affect unless all the way clockwise.


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## D1PHAM (Sep 15, 2008)

65 (+) / 50 (-) works well for me. I get only about 10mm of sag, however it feels quite active while still being stiff enough to reduce brake dive. I weigh about 130 with my riding gear. 

Running the (-) chamber higher than the (+) chamber reduced my travel and didn't feel all that much better with respect to small bump compliance, compared to my current settings.


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## specilized (Jul 12, 2009)

+ 100 - 110


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## t-bone-king (Aug 30, 2009)

*.*

Today has been a good day - Ive had some rebas on my bike for a year now, but i decided to get customizin'. I read this thread for an hour this morning, took a bus to town, got me a fork pump, bussed back and spent 3 hours on one wee section tryin all the pressure settings i could think of, and I thought Id report my findings:

I weigh around 160 pounds with kit and my favourite setting was 105pos and 90neg. Its an 08 Reba SL 85mm.

I cant seem to figure out and how you change the floodgate setting?

Also, my Reba was quoted as 85mm, yet I only get about 75, is this normal, and on the sticker it says:
488 (115mm TRAVEL) 
473 (100mm TRAVEL)
Whats this about?

Cheers


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## specilized (Jul 12, 2009)

I don't think your shock has a flood gate and it is nomal to loose some travel because if your air pressure in the pos is more than you loose it, it happens to me all the time. I have no idea what sticker you are talking about.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

specilized said:


> I don't think your shock has a flood gate and it is nomal to loose some travel because if your air pressure in the pos is more than you loose it, it happens to me all the time. I have no idea what sticker you are talking about.


All Rebas have a floodgate adjustment.


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## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

AFAIK the Reba SL does have a floodgate, but it is not externally / user adjustable (I forget which).

I would just ignore it and ride. However, you can always swap out for a MoCo cartridge with external floodgate if you really wanted to.

Cheers,

P.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

pongee said:


> AFAIK the Reba SL does have a floodgate, but it is not externally / user adjustable (I forget which).
> 
> I would just ignore it and ride. However, you can always swap out for a MoCo cartridge with external floodgate if you really wanted to.
> 
> ...


The FG _is _adjustable on ALL reba models. By internal, it just means there is no knob. You use a hex wrench to adjust it. Actually, you can just pull the rebound adjuster off the bottom and use the hex key on the end of it and adjust it right on the trail without even getting off your bike.

There is no functional difference between the external and the internal adjusted MoCo units. I know, I have both.


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## specilized (Jul 12, 2009)

Is the flood gate the lockout?


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Wow, the thread that won't die. Probably a good thing!


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

specilized said:


> Is the flood gate the lockout?


It is involved with the lockout, but it is more complicated than that. Read this if you want to understand it:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1498056#poststop


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

No external extra knob, but you can take out the cap take out your rebound dial and use that to adjust your floodgate and that same knob also adjusts Juicy SL brakes or something to.


The flood gate is a force activated release mechanism, I've got mine set very soft theory being when I forget and leave the lockout on the fork still works it's just firmer which is all you need for climbing smooth stuff even standing they barely move.

I rarely use my lockout though, the fork doesn't need it.


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## riverfever (Jun 26, 2007)

I'm running an 80mm Reba right now that I think has something wrong with it. I mostly do longer stuff like the CTR. I'm 150ish and probably have right at 20lbs of gear (with food and water) for an event like that. My fork always bottoms out. For this years race I ran it at 125+ and 100- and still bottom out. This fall I did the Whole Enchilada in Moab and only had a backpack but still ran the same pressures and still had problems. I know most rave about their Reba and it's ability to cover such a wide spectrum of users but I just don't feel that I've ever been anle to find a good balance between smaller stuff and big hits. I think something (maybe the damper) is not working. I normally ride with the fastest rebound (rabbit) but when I turn it all the way in the fork does rebound very slowly so maybe that's not the issue. 

After reading through this I've tried settings used by other similar riders (85+ and 70-) and the fork is horribly easy to bottom out. 

Idears?


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

River, at those settings whats your sag ?? 25% ish ??

Find a pressure that works for you, try 140+/120- maybe see if that solves the bottoming out issue.

Different riders / bike setups need totally different pressures at times, I've got a 160lb mate which on my bike needs 20% more pressure than me to stop bottoming out and I'm 230lb's so go figure, we've repeated this on a few forks aswell, he can bottom my forks out just bouncing around in the street, very strange.

Tis all about weight distribution though, he must ride with more weight forward likely the same with you.

2 things to do / check :-

1. With the fork the normal way up, empty the negative chamber this will purge any excess oil it migrates from + to - and is a pain I find.

2. If you let the pressure out of the + side, unscrew the cap check there is some oil in there, if you add more oil it'll change the spring curve rate so it ramps up more towards the end and vice versa, tis a useful way to tune a fork, you'll have to check it frequently and repeat #1 though be warned.


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## riverfever (Jun 26, 2007)

I'd say 25% sag is a good estimate with those lower pressures. I've had this fork for 2 seasons now. The majority of my training is done on my road bike but in that time I have done CTR twice and Whole Enchilada once. A friend says that it's probably toast and that I should look to buy a new bike instead of updating the shifters and getting the fork serviced but I don't know that I agree. When I was racing XC and working at a shop I could afford a different bike each year but now that I'm out of the industry and not getting deals I don't know if it's feasible. I've been doing CTR and will shoot for TD next year. I LOVE my Alma and see no reason to get another bike if I can just get some new shifters/ders and Mike C is supposed to build me some new wheels before this years race. 

I'll try the higher pressures and see what happens if it doesn't snow tomorrow.


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## six foot sloth (Nov 30, 2009)

I have an 06 reba sl and I shut the flood gate and tried to hit its thresh hold but it stayed rigid. even puting it 1/3 shut it did not seem like it was fully shut until you hit a thresh hold, it seemed just stiffer. 

Another thing, it seems like the people posting on this thread all talked about their riding style being light with small bumps ect. I was thinking that if someone is in to more heavy riding you would not want your neg pressure to be above you positive at all. As far as not ever using the last inch, well for me I tried lowering my pos and increasing my neg and I could bottom out very easy, so I guess I prefer saving it only for emergencies.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

I have a 2010 reba team, can anyone advise me what air settings to run as a base point as i have tried the standard ones with little joy. Also floodgate and damping settings would be useful as well. I weigh 161lbs, the fork is in 100mm travel setting.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Rick Draper said:


> I have a 2010 reba team, can anyone advise me what air settings to run as a base point as i have tried the standard ones with little joy. Also floodgate and damping settings would be useful as well. I weigh 161lbs, the fork is in 100mm travel setting.


85+/70-. Floodgate two "clicks" in from full off. Damping nearly off...wait, are you asking about rebound? Same answer. Try it and report back. No fork does everything perfectly, it's always a compromise.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

xcguy said:


> 85+/70-. Floodgate two "clicks" in from full off. Damping nearly off...wait, are you asking about rebound? Same answer. Try it and report back. No fork does everything perfectly, it's always a compromise.


Set like that the lockout lever has little if no effect.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Rick Draper said:


> Set like that the lockout lever has little if no effect.


OK, then set the floodgate "three clicks" in. The point is, you set the floodgate where you want it insofar as how much of a hit it takes to break your fork loose. Turn the floodgate full on and it never breaks loose. Two or three clicks in for me means it stays high in its travel until just the right hit breaks it loose. This isn't something I keep "on" all the time, just every now and then. Mostly I don't have my "lockout" on at all.

Have you tried the pressures I said? You and I weigh about the same but your riding style may be completely different.

And, you know, my Reba/Revelations are a couple of years old, maybe they have different technology in there for the 2010.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Rick Draper said:


> Set like that the lockout lever has little if no effect.


A worthwhile trade-off in some cases.


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## HotzKiss (Jun 24, 2004)

Hi Can I adopt these settings for SID race?


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## E-mile (Mar 17, 2010)

I don't know why so many of you only get 3" of travel with your Reba's. 

Mine is a 100 mm Reba Race '09. I weigh about 144 lbs I think (I'm from Belgium so I'm used to express my weight in kg, which is, geared up, about 72). Pressure used to be 90 +ve en 100-ve. After reading this thread, I did something I thougt would never work out for me: 60+ve and 40-ve. However, this is a very good setting for me nonetheless. 
When I do a bunny hop for example, I get 90-95 mm of travel when pushing down on the bars before leaping. I've never bottomed out my fork, and on the trails, I get 90+ mm of travel when I encounter some decent obstacles (although I feel obliged to say that where I live, there aren't that many). 
My zip-tie is never more than 10 mm (about 2/5") away from the top. 

I haven't bottomed out on both my old and my new settings, but I haven't been able to test the new ones on a decent ride.
It has some brake dive, however. I have a Pushloc (works great, love it), so compression is either fully open or fully damped. Too bad my external FloodGate won't turn, so I can't play with that to eliminate brake dive. 
I wish I could, but I'm not good at working with my hands (how do you say that in English: handy man or something?) So if I was to open up my Reba, it would certainly be ruined... :-(

Back to the travel I'm getting: am I somehow doing something that has never been told about on these forums for the last couple of years?

(Excuse me if my English is bad, Dutch is my native language.)

Thx


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## E-mile (Mar 17, 2010)

Excuse me, my weight isn't correct. 72 kg equals about 158 lbs...



E-mile said:


> I don't know why so many of you only get 3" of travel with your Reba's.
> 
> Mine is a 100 mm Reba Race '09. I weigh about 144 lbs I think (I'm from Belgium so I'm used to express my weight in kg, which is, geared up, about 72). Pressure used to be 90 +ve en 100-ve. After reading this thread, I did something I thougt would never work out for me: 60+ve and 40-ve. However, this is a very good setting for me nonetheless.
> When I do a bunny hop for example, I get 90-95 mm of travel when pushing down on the bars before leaping. I've never bottomed out my fork, and on the trails, I get 90+ mm of travel when I encounter some decent obstacles (although I feel obliged to say that where I live, there aren't that many).
> ...


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## 29erWannabe (May 20, 2010)

This is a monumental topic!

I was so anxious to order a Reba SL 29” – 2010 because of all these adjustments…

I am a rider that likes adjustability and tweaking, but this should not shade the fun of the ride in anyway…

I opt to a good setting even if this takes some time to pinpoint, and then I want my fun!

I weigh 177 all geared, so I intend to dial in 100+/ 90- to start with. Compression and floodgate are unknown words to me, even having read half this topic. I guess it will become clearer on the way. 

Do these settings sound ok to you?

Thanx in advance if u bother to answer…


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Running 120 +ve, 130-ve in my Reba Team 29 - based on feedback I read in this thread (about 25% sag, maybe a touch more)... SOOO SMOOTH and PLUSH running fork!!! Got rebound dialed 1 click faster than middle setting. Compression usually fully open, unless I'm riding a really flat section. Blowoff set at middle. This is the plushest fork I've ever ridden. Totally dampens out the small chop. :thumbsup:

I'm about 185lbs geared up... but keep in mind how much weight you put on the front vs the rear (ie. your riding position) will great affect things.


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## laztpn0i (Apr 8, 2010)

Would anyone like to recommend air settings for my 2009 reba team? As well as floodgate and damping settings? I also have a remote lockout(poplock) with adjustment dial. And I cant seem to feel any difference with whatever settings I make. I weigh about 205 lbs with gear. I just need a good starting point. Thanks! Oh yeah, I also have it at 120mm.


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## petercarm (Nov 5, 2007)

I'm 200lbs on a Reba Team (26). I run 115+/112.5-. If I go with negative higher than positive, I don't get any mid stroke support to match the way the back end of the bike is working and the poplock adjust makes no difference, even though the small bump is extraordinary.

If I go positive much higher than negative, then the fork isn't as sensitive to small bumps and doesn't generate as much grip. My compromise works for me. Rebound is 7 clicks from full tortoise, but my last oil change might be a bit heavier than the book 5w.


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## Dex11 (May 4, 2005)

Great thread, used it for my 32 mm SID. RockShox need to work an there manuals, or let someone from here write it for them......:thumbsup:


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

I'm 190lb geared up and running 110psi in the pos/neg chambers.

I like the small bump compliance but I'm trying to reduce the bobbing when I stand and mash on the climbs.

The manual states that the compression knob has to be in the locked (full) position for the floodgate to make a difference. Is that accurate?

What's the best way to adjust the compression knob and the internal floodgate to minimize bobbing on the climbs?


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> I'm 190lb geared up and running 110psi in the pos/neg chambers.
> 
> I like the small bump compliance but I'm trying to reduce the bobbing when I stand and mash on the climbs.
> 
> ...


Try running a lower neg pressure first. Having it equal to your pos is acting to draw your fork down.


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## chris1911 (May 26, 2009)

riverfever said:


> I'm running an 80mm Reba right now that I think has something wrong with it. I mostly do longer stuff like the CTR. I'm 150ish and probably have right at 20lbs of gear (with food and water) for an event like that. My fork always bottoms out. For this years race I ran it at 125+ and 100- and still bottom out. This fall I did the Whole Enchilada in Moab and only had a backpack but still ran the same pressures and still had problems. I know most rave about their Reba and it's ability to cover such a wide spectrum of users but I just don't feel that I've ever been anle to find a good balance between smaller stuff and big hits. I think something (maybe the damper) is not working. I normally ride with the fastest rebound (rabbit) but when I turn it all the way in the fork does rebound very slowly so maybe that's not the issue.
> 
> After reading through this I've tried settings used by other similar riders (85+ and 70-) and the fork is horribly easy to bottom out.
> 
> Idears?


Sounds like you may have the same problem as me. Mine is new (just a couple rides on it) and is already on its way to SRAM. It only had a little travel and was bottoming out (knocking hard on the trail) on almost every stroke. Took it to a LBS that services forks and they said a seal on the lockout side blew out. Had oil where oil should not be. Looks like the turnaround time will be at least two weeks  .


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## nicoswit (Oct 26, 2009)

Hi there!
I just started fiddling again with my Reba Team 2009 120mm settings. This is the first time I adventured out to fiddle with the compression gate. So here goes the setup I imagined after reading this thread over and over again:
I weigh 139 pounds, And my psi's are: 50 +ive, 60 -ive
What I tend to accomplish with this setup is the following:
Reallly Plush for uphills and flat trails(Unlocked fork), and for agrresive xc downhills fork locked out with about 13 clicks gate closed.
If I am sounding like a mad man please stop me anytime here, I haven't tried this on the trail, but just bouncing the fork with my arms on both unlocked and locked this setup makes sense to my style of riding, taking into consideration the plushness of the Unlocked fork, and the non diving, firm but responsive setup of the locked fork and the gate more than halfway closed. Maybe I'll fine tune the compression gate, adding a little more or a little less, but that'l be on the trail.
With the unlocked setting i get my recommended 25% SAG.
Did I get all the posts from this forum? or is this madness! I feel kinda proud of this setup, but I'll have to wait till the weekend to try it out.
So, thanks in advance and please tell me if I got it right before I loose a arm or some teeth jejej!
Cheers!


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## petercarm (Nov 5, 2007)

nicoswit said:


> and for agrresive xc downhills fork locked out with about 13 clicks gate closed.
> If I am sounding like a mad man please stop me anytime here,


I reckon you'll face two issues with this setup.

First, the fork will not be very much use to you in a g-out, or in getting any push back out of the front end in bermed corners. I say this because you are setting the spring softer than you need for the technical riding and then you're attempting to cover that off with the "locked out" compression damping settings.

Second, the locked out settings will give you a lot of harshness just when you don't want it. Running locked out gives you a rapid rise in compression damping force at low piston speeds before the floodgate blows. Low speed compression damping is generally useful for giving you trail feedback and you don't need much and it should be progressive. Compression damping does give useful control of bottom out resistance, but generally you want compression events to progressively increase force until it becomes unbearable and at that stage flatten the compression response. This is what a normal motion control setup should give you, with balanced settings of compression and floodgate.

I suspect your setup falls foul of the first golden rule of suspension setup: "Every setting is a compromise." By setting up the spring super soft and attempting to compensate with damping, you have tilted the compromise in one direction.

Second rule of suspension setting being: "Live and learn", I'm not discouraging you from trying this out and look forward to your feedback. My hunch is that you will report back that it is a success after the first ride, but after living with it and riding week on week you may start to head back to a more balanced compromise.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

petercarm is right. You can come up with one setup trying to tackle one "problem" only to find another area of your fork's performance now sucks. I look back on my very first post on this thread (a lot of water under the bridge since I started this thread fo' sho').

I thought I'd fixed the "small bump compliance" problemo only to find my fork ramped up too fast. It took a lot of replies here and a bunch of testing to find my "compromise of choice".

OTOH, I had a Reba PUSHed and now it does everything perfectly.  Which isn't to say my Revelations don't perform great, just sayin'...


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## jayz28 (Feb 2, 2009)

xcguy said:


> OTOH, I had a Reba PUSHed and now it does everything perfectly.  Which isn't to say my Revelations don't perform great, just sayin'...


The best adjustment I made to my Reba Race was swapping out the stock orifice rebound damper for the shimmed Team version; like a poor man's PUSH. Now everything works perfectly.. for me


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## YnotGorilla (Mar 22, 2008)

Steve from JH said:


> Everyone in this thread should read what Anden had to say a couple of weeks ago:
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=174215
> 
> ...


:thumbsup: +1

There seem to be two conflicting messages here:
-A lot of riders say - > + give them better small bump performance, how within the current physics paradigm is this possible? increasing the spring preload makes bump absorption better? It makes the fork ride further into its travel and expand faster when running over bumps, this is not small bump compliance. I guess you guys must be riding with all your weight over the front?

As mentioned in the quoted post above I think you - > + guys ride with too much pressure in the + to begin with, adjust sag to about a third with + = -, and then remove 5-15 psi from the -. This will give you a plush ride with good small bump sensitivity. 
Install a rubber O-ring or a zip-tie on the fork leg, if you don`t use all travel on a typical ride you run too much + pressure. If this feels to soft you can always add compression damping and/or ride with a small platform via the gate


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## nicoswit (Oct 26, 2009)

So, what is the recommended % SAG? (20 -25 %???)
Thanks!


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

nicoswit said:


> So, what is the recommended % SAG? (20 -25 %???)
> Thanks!


I could not even tell you what the sag measurement is on either of my suspension forks. I have found it to be a pretty useless measurement beyond giving me a starting point the first time I pump it up.


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## YnotGorilla (Mar 22, 2008)

Gravel roads/pavement: a quarter
Rough trail: a third

Everything in between: in between

Remeber: the purpose of suspension is to avoid perpendicular movement (and thus energydissipation) when you travel along. Too stiff a a spring(too little sag) and/or poor riding style and you and your bike will waste a loose a lot of energy by vertical movement. Experienced riders often ride with "flow", they seldom have only 15-20% sag..


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## nicoswit (Oct 26, 2009)

YnotGorilla
I don't understand what you mean by: "adjust sag to about a third with + = -"??? 
A "third" of what?

Thanks, beforehand!


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## petercarm (Nov 5, 2007)

YnotGorilla said:


> As mentioned in the quoted post above I think you - > + guys ride with too much pressure in the + to begin with, adjust sag to about a third with + = -, and then remove 5-15 psi from the -. This will give you a plush ride with good small bump sensitivity.


If it was this easy, with one setup prescriptive for all, RockShox wouldn't give us dual air at all and single air would be the premium setup. The language and semantics of describing a set-up of dual air works against us getting any coherent data out of a forum thread. For example, you're keen on negative 5-15 psi below positive, but you (and others) are not abundantly clear in whether you measure your sag 'seated' or 'attack'.

The other thing about dual air, is that the pressures observed in the dual chambers are very sensitive to where the piston is located at the time you measure/set the pressure. If the fork just happens to stick just 1mm out of position, the error value in how much air you are actually putting in the negative chamber might render all your careful observations of ride characteristics invalid.

Being a keen obsessive, I re-engineered a pair of shock pumps with an umbilical pneumatic pipe linking the two and with a cut-off valve. This lets me change the process from setting two interdependent air pressures to a process where I set one a single air pressure in conjunction with the position of the fork at the moment I close the cutoff valve. It achieves exactly the same end result, but appears to be a bit more repeatable than any other method I have tried for the equivalent of running the negative higher than the positive.


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

I'm still not sure how to set up the floodgate on my Reba SL 29.

The manual states that in order for the floodgate to make any difference, the compression knob has to be fully in the locked position, all the way clockwise. While some users say that the knob does not have to be in the completely locked position.

Which one is it?


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> I'm still not sure how to set up the floodgate on my Reba SL 29.
> 
> The manual states that in order for the floodgate to make any difference, the compression knob has to be fully in the locked position, all the way clockwise. While some users say that the knob does not have to be in the completely locked position.
> 
> Which one is it?


The Floodgate DOES affect the fork even when unlocked. The actual tuning is a bit complicated to explain, as the practical effect of the floodgate is a little different at different compression settings. It does not surprise me that the manual does not go into all of that.

If you want to understand how to use the MoCo, here is my best attempt to explain it from an OLD thread. I should add that my tuning preferences have changed, but the concept behind the different tuning options is the same.
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1498056#poststop

In this thread, Bad Mechanic explains the actually mechanics of how it works (mine is more of a conceptual explanation):
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=6576325#poststop

I have two forks with MoCo (140mm Pike and 80mm Reba) and I notice that the effects of the floodgate on the fork in the unlocked compression position is less noticeable on the shorter travel fork.

EDIT: I think these links are fixed.


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

kapusta said:


> The Floodgate DOES affect the fork even when unlocked. The actual tuning is a bit complicated to explain, as the practical effect of the floodgate is a little different at different compression settings. It does not surprise me that the manual does not go into all of that.
> 
> If you want to understand how to use the MoCo, here is my best attempt to explain it from an OLD thread. I should add that my tuning preferences have changed, but the concept behind the different tuning options is the same.
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...98056#poststop
> ...


Unable to load the links you provided! 404 not found error.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

NO IT DOES NOT AFFECT IT!!! Arrggghhhhhhhhhh!!

okay knob fully off, NO Effect, Knob say 1/2 way on so you've got some compression damping, It COULD maybe on a big hit go back to fully off short term.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Turveyd said:


> NO IT DOES NOT AFFECT IT!!! Arrggghhhhhhhhhh!!
> 
> okay knob fully off, NO Effect, Knob say 1/2 way on so you've got some compression damping, It COULD maybe on a big hit go back to fully off short term.


Yes it does, even with the compression damper on full open (on very high speed hits). Keep in mind there is still SOME compression damping even with the compression set fully open. Maybe you don't notice it, but it is there. I don't notice it at 80mm of travel, but over 100mm I do notice it.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

But it's not changing the compression damping like some claim, it's only changing the threshold the Compression / Lockout damper gets by passed at and becomes a fully active fork.

I can't test this, I lost the cover on the adjust years ago and it's clogged up with dirt and gunk it would be very hard to tell for sure anyway.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Turveyd said:


> But it's not changing the compression damping like some claim, it's only changing the threshold the Compression / Lockout damper gets by passed at and becomes a fully active fork.
> 
> I can't test this, I lost the cover on the adjust years ago and it's clogged up with dirt and gunk it would be very hard to tell for sure anyway.


When you have the compression damper full fast, the FG works like a high speed blow off. So no, it does not affect the low speed damping, it affects the high speed damping. This has an effect on the performance of the fork on high speed hits.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

i tested for high speed damping when I first had the fork, riding up a kerb a few times, changing and riding up the exact same kerb as near as I could the same and repeating and I can't detect any change at all in mine, threshold max or min.

It really shouldn't either, it's just a variable blow off valve, without compression / resistance in the first place then there is nothing to blow off which is why I doubt it'll work anywhere short of locked. ( maybe near locked )

MC only has low speed damping aswell which is how the fork locks out, you wouldn't want the factory tuned high speed damping if any suddenly not working on a high speed hit, which is exactly when you want high speed damping for, it would make it all kinda random.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Turveyd said:


> i tested for high speed damping when I first had the fork, riding up a kerb a few times, changing and riding up the exact same kerb as near as I could the same and repeating and I can't detect any change at all in mine, threshold max or min.
> 
> It really shouldn't either, it's just a variable blow off valve, without compression / resistance in the first place then there is nothing to blow off which is why I doubt it'll work anywhere short of locked. ( maybe near locked )


What you need to understand is that even in the lightest compression setting, there IS still some resistance if the shaft is moving fast enough. With a very light FG setting, it will work as a high speed blow off. You are never going to detect this pushing down on the fork, and I doubt with your curb example, either. Where you will notice it (or at least I and others do) is when you are hitting substantial rocky and rooty sections at high speeds, as that will get the fork moving fast enough for the simple orifice compression damper to spike without some sort of blow-off (which the FG can provide if you set it light enough.

At moderate compression settings (maybe 1/3 or 1/2 in from full open), the effect will be even more noticeable. One set-up that works pretty well is to run the compression high enough to resist some bobbing and diving, and then running the FG light enough to open up pretty easily for larger hits.



> MC only has low speed damping aswell which is how the fork locks out, you wouldn't want the factory tuned high speed damping if any suddenly not working on a high speed hit, which is exactly when you want high speed damping for, it would make it all kinda random.


It is complicated, but I think you need to lean more about how the MC is set up. The FG is a blow-off. Whether it is a high speed blow off (opening up on the fastest hits to avoid spiking) or low speed blow off (what it is used for in the locked out position) depends on how you have it and the compression setting set.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> Unable to load the links you provided! 404 not found error.


I think I fixed them. They should work now.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

I fixed the links above (the ones I posted for Dictatorsaurous) , check them out if you want to understand more about how MC works.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

I'll have to dissolve the gunk in there and give it a try I guess, I have my FG backed all the way off pretty much, so when I forget it's not the end of me, but I didn't notice any change from factory set to when I backed it all the way off a few weeks into having them.

Still think it's only a locked or near locked thing personally.


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

Turveyd said:


> Still think it's only a locked or near locked thing personally.


All you need to do is ride the same high-speed rock garden twice - run the least amount of compression both times but once with max (-) gate and once with max (+) gate. You can get to the bottom of this in less time then it took me to type this.

You will, however, find that kapusta is correct.


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

I have an internal FG adjustment knob. Just to make sure, to have the FG at max, I turn the hex key all the way clockwise?


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> I have an internal FG adjustment knob. Just to make sure, to have the FG at max, I turn the hex key all the way clockwise?


With the compression knob set to max (closed/locked) just turn the FG adjuster and see for yourself.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

Need to fix the adjuster and find a suitable repeatable rock garden, then get a mate to adjust the dial and not let me know which way, bla bla bla.


Soon ish!!

I'll find a diagram for the damper aswell and take a look at that I can read them so all be fine.


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

Turveyd said:


> Need to fix the adjuster and find a suitable repeatable rock garden, then get a mate to adjust the dial and not let me know which way, bla bla bla.
> 
> Soon ish!!
> 
> I'll find a diagram for the damper aswell and take a look at that I can read them so all be fine.


Let us know once you get the results.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

Will do need a ride on my own so I can stop and fiddle, so Sunday is the best bet got to try to get the gunk out of the adjuster, any ideas ??

Reba 29 SL 2006 / 2007 last of the models before they had power bulge, MC's not changed has it ??


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## Davva (Sep 13, 2008)

There seem to be some good prices on 2010 models at the moment, but they all have bar mounted remote poploc which I don't want, can I run without this connected and turn the adjuster where the cable would meet the top of the fork ? 
Fair enough it may not be finger friendly.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Davva said:


> There seem to be some good prices on 2010 models at the moment, but they all have bar mounted remote poploc which I don't want, can I run without this connected and turn the adjuster where the cable would meet the top of the fork ?
> Fair enough it may not be finger friendly.


It doesn't surprise me that the "good priced" 2010 Rebas have that bar mounted thingy. I never did like the ones I got a few years ago. Unfortunately, back then you couldn't just disconnect the cable as the insides of that fork leg were spring loaded and once you turned it it'd spring back. Don't know if they're any different now but it took minor/major surgery inside to detach the spring. Almost not worth the trouble, seeing as you don't own one. Just buy one without it.


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## YnotGorilla (Mar 22, 2008)

You need to screw out the damper from the top of the internal legs (monkey wrench or 24mm socket) and pick out the detention-end of the spring you see around the internal cylinder with a needle, pliers, etc. Search and you will find a pictorial guide on a very nearby bicycle website.
It`s a very easy operation, just a little fiddleing with the spring.

Second you need to make the knob more grip friendly, drill and thread a small hole for a short screw, or make a new knob from some plastic/plexi glass like I did. You`ll only need nose pliers to open the detent ring for removing the knob.
Easy-piecy, yet again a little fiddleing to "machine" (with a small file) a plastic knob to fit the 8mm octagonal knob on top of the damper unit.

Did a 1m drop with my muchos-plushness-adjusted reba today without bottoming, they really are great forks


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## Sid Nitzerglobin (Sep 17, 2010)

My 2009 Reba Race U-Turn w/o Poploc just came in and I'm trying to come up w/ a jumping off point settings-wise. It's going to be replacing a Dart 3 on my HT. I'm a suspension noob, about 210lbs geared up and am looking for a good compromise between travel, plush bump compliance, and minimal brake dive and climb bobbing but still able to absorb ~2-3" hits uphill. I'd prefer to find a set up that won't require playing w/ the compression knob as I approach ascents. If it make a difference I run an MK 2.4 ~28 psi front and a TK 2.2 ~32psi rear.

I read through about 75% of this thread and am thinking about starting w/ the following:

140+/150-
Compression ~40-50% from disabled
FG ~1.25 turns up from disabled
Rebound ?

Does this sound like reasonable starting point? Did I miss something important?

Thanks.


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## RudeSechsVibe (Aug 24, 2008)

I think the other 25% spoke about not having the negative exceed positive. If it were me I would try 115+/105- as a starting point and adjust from there.

Up to you. Good luck, have fun.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

Higher - makes for less active as it sucks the fork into the travel making it sit at a lower sag and therefore higher +.

Above sucks so for a less active setup 115+/110- maybe, but never ever above.


Connect 2 pumps, pump + to 100, then - to 120 then check the + pressure, yep it's 120 as it'll equalize.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

No offense, man, but hard to believe you came to the conclusion after reading this thread to pump your negative higher than the positive. It's the opposite, negative about 15 lbs LESS than positive. I know I started this thread more than four years ago (!!:yikes: :yikes:!!) with the idea that more positive was a good thing but I was proven way wrong. I'm 165 lbs, you're 200+. Start with, I dunno, 115+/100-. I usually have my rebound turned up just a bit. Floodgate? Set it so you can ride with your fork "locked out" but it still will break loose fairly easily.

I first got acquainted with my Reba out in Moab on a huge slab of slickrock. I took out all the negative and pumped the positive to where I wasn't bottoming out much. Then I pumped the negative up for small bump compliance. It always works out to 15 lbs LESS than positive. For my 165, that's 80/65.

Don't worry about the "complexity" of getting it right, once you do you're set.


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## Sid Nitzerglobin (Sep 17, 2010)

No offense taken, as I said I'm a suspension noob and this is my first foray into air springs and anything halfway decent for certain. Many of the initial posts seemed to indicate better small bump compliance w/ negative ~ 10 psi higher than positive which seemed to be supported by later posts and contradicted by others. Turveyd's explanation make a lot of sense, I'll try between 10-15 psi less negative than positive.

Was working off of the later posts mentioning the higher pressures for U-Turn models to come up w/ my initial positive figure of 140 psi (basically took the SRAM recommended 80% of rider weight and knocked it down to 70%). Does this not apply?

In all fairness I probably did only wind up reading around 55-60% of the posts, all of the first 5 pages and spot checking more recent pages afterward  Reading comprehension may have taken a hit at times though as I was multi-tasking. Sorry for being "that guy", at least I didn't make another new thread for my question. I really appreciate the replies to set me straight :thumbsup:


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

It's called a Placebo effect, your feeling what you expect to feel regardless of feeling it or not.

My first ride, I ran 150+ 140- LOVED the fork, despite being to hard run 110+/70- these days and haven't lost any weight, 2nd ride I hate it as I'd went upto 160-.

Higher negative slows the works rebound down near the end of the stroke so you take a small hit and fork doesn't extend to take the next hit which makes it feel rigid, well to me anyway.


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## frank daleview (Jan 23, 2004)

Wow this thread is still going?! I had my 2005 Reba rebuilt and "Pushed" this year. I should've had them do this a while back, it's basically a whole new fork for a fraction of the price.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

iceaxe said:


> Wow this thread is still going?! I had my 2005 Reba rebuilt and "Pushed" this year. I should've had them do this a while back, it's basically a whole new fork for a fraction of the price.


I just sold a low-mileage 2007 Revelation U-Turn. The guy who bought it was coming off a year 2000 Manitou Whatever fork. I told him he had no idea what an improvement in front suspension he was about to experience.

I also had a Reba PUSHed. It was just sitting around while I was running my Revelations and I thought, what the heck. As you say, it's basically a whole new fork. It seems to have a mind of its own how to respond to the trail. Anyone out there who has an "aging" Reba or Revelation that needs a rebuild, send it to PUSH to get back the best performing fork you can ride.


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## Sid Nitzerglobin (Sep 17, 2010)

Just got back from my first ride on the Reba.

I started out @ 120+/110- but was getting a whole lot of brake dive and was able to compress the fork down to ~15mm from the top of the stanchions just leaning into it in the parking lot. Wound up running it at the following for the full day:

105mm Travel
140+/130-
Compression ~ 45-50%
Gate +1.5 turns from full negative
Rebound 75% Fast

Definitely nice and plush for individual hits up to 3.5" or so uphill, flat, or downhill. Felt pretty harsh for higher speed, high frequency rollers, roots, rock gardens etc. however. Part of this might be that I was carrying a good deal more speed than the last time I was at this trail though.

I actually wound up w/ a relatively spectacular OTB crash taking some large whoopty-doos that snuck up on me at a much higher speed than I realized. Was trying to just pump over this one but wound up airborne for ~5.5', planting my front wheel about 4/5 of the way up the next bump and sliding another 4 or 5' on my shoulder and hip  Got some nice bruising and trail rash down the shoulder and deep tissue bruise on the hip, but the bike's OK :thumbsup: .

Anyways, got a couple of questions.

1) Would slowing my rebound and maybe upping the gate maybe help reduce some of the harshness and blowback on the high frequency bigger hits?

2) Not sure how much spare stanchion there should be left before bottoming out on this fork. Here's where my travel o-ring wound up at the end of the day:


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

I always hoped for at least that amount of travel every ride and perhaps more. But not constantly, only from the occasional big hit.

No fork does everything you want all the time (except when it's PUSHed, but that's another thread). You don't want your rebound set too high or your fork packs up and stays low on multiple hits. Brave dive can be ameliorated by turning your compression dial up when you know you're gonna be slowing down for multiple switchbacks. Higher negative pressure exacerbates the fork's tendency to dive. You still only have a 10 lb delta between the two, try the 15 lb difference I recommended.

It's all a compromise. Just find the settings that take care of the most important things you want from your fork and tolerate the other "less than perfect" aspects of your fork. Measuring the actual O ring distance will give you your actual travel. it doesn't matter how much stanchion is still above the O ring. And think of all that air in the positive chamber that's being compressed, there's no way you're gonna compress it to zero.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Sid Nitzerglobin said:


> 1) Would slowing my rebound and maybe upping the gate maybe help reduce some of the harshness and blowback on the high frequency bigger hits?
> ]


The harshness on the stutter bumps and rapid hits will likely be made worse by slowing the rebound. I would do the opposite, and speed it up. The problem could be that the fork is not extending quickly enough before the next hit ("packing up").

As far as harder, single, high speed hits, I find that running a very light floodgate helps a lot.

I found that working with the air pressures was a better way to deal with brake dive than the compression damping. Compression damping can help, but trying to use damping to make up for too soft of a spring rate has never worked out too well for me with the Motion Control.

It took a LOT a screwing around with the dual pressures to get it really dialed in to feel compliant, use most of the travel, and not dive too much.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

BUT..........

Faster rebound via the knob will be bad for big hits as it'll spike you into the air on the rebound, drop the Negative another 10 - 40psi that'll speed it up for stutter bumps without having to run a pogo stick for big hits.

Thats how I cured it anyway.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

Ohhh the Flood Gate is only how fast it blows off while locked, it won't change anything else unless it's locked ( it might but not sure, turn your 50% compression setting back to Zero )


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Turveyd said:


> Ohhh the Flood Gate is only how fast it blows off while locked, it won't change anything else unless it's locked


No, it DOES affect the fork when "unlocked". The higher the compression setting, the more effect it will have.

EDIT: Opps, I realized we have already discussed this. Good lord, this thread is OLD!


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Turveyd said:


> BUT..........
> 
> Faster rebound via the knob will be bad for big hits as it'll spike you into the air on the rebound, drop the Negative another 10 - 40psi that'll speed it up for stutter bumps without having to run a pogo stick for big hits.
> 
> Thats how I cured it anyway.


"_Faster_" rebound does not mean "_zero_" rebound damping. It is a very standard and understood practice to try faster rebound when you find the fork packing up on rapid, repeated hits.

But yeah, it is important to play with the pressures as well.


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## bing! (Jul 8, 2010)

kapusta said:


> No, it DOES affect the fork when "unlocked". The higher the compression setting, the more effect it will have.
> 
> EDIT: Opps, I realized we have already discussed this. Good lord, this thread is OLD!


From all previous discussion, I guess the floodgate is not activated by the lockout. It is always active. Is the floodgate spring affected by how much LSC is dialed in?


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

bing! said:


> From all previous discussion, I guess the floodgate is not activated by the lockout. It is always active. Is the floodgate spring affected by how much LSC is dialed in?


http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=7194449#post7194449


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## Sid Nitzerglobin (Sep 17, 2010)

Alright cool, gonna try dropping another 5-10psi out of the negative and see how that works for me. Always good to keep the variables isolated I suppose. If that's not doing it for me I think I'll try backing off the rebound a couple clicks at a time to see if the source of the issue is a strong pogo effect. 16 clicks worth seemed like it might have been aggressive. If that doesn't work after getting to 50% I'll try upping it to 17 or 18 clicks.

Thanks so much for the input/explanations. Sorry to make you guys retread old ground.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

I've left it as a possibility, can't adjust mine FG and it's backed all the way off cause I forget to unlock frequently and well the fork still works reasonibly but climbs fine, but I still don't personally believe it and can't be arsed to get the dirt out of the FG to try to feel my compression coming off breifly cause of it, sure can't feel it in the minimal FG setting.

The pogo effect will only happen on big hits, its a balancing act between the 2, new RS's have twin damping to get around this.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Yeah, this thread has come full circle. I started it all off the mis-conception that the negative should be higher than the positive, others here corrected me so the "new" given was that the negative should be lower than the positive. Then "is floodgate active all the time or only when the compression dial is all the way on" discussion went round and round.

And now we're starting all over again. "I've heard the negative should be higher than the positive" and "floodgate only works when the compression dial is full on". And so it goes. Heck, we can cycle back and forth here for at least a couple more years doncha think?


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## RudeSechsVibe (Aug 24, 2008)

My experience with the Rock Shox system is that it takes many rides at different settings to know what works best for my riding style and conditions. Taking suggestions from other riders helped get a good starting point, but it was up to me to figure out what worked best. Session certain sections at different settings was the ticket.

As far as FG goes, I don't notice a whole lot going on with full open compression damping. The fork is very active, of course, but if the FG does anything at this setting it is too subtle for me to feel it. I set my FG for how it rides best at lockout. It _easily_ blows off, but controls all of the pedal bob at my weight. Of course, small bumps are pretty harsh and that is to be expected in the lockout setting.

Even though this thread is old and re-hashed several times, it is still very good info. :thumbsup:


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

xcguy said:


> Yeah, this thread has come full circle. I started it all off the mis-conception that the negative should be higher than the positive, others here corrected me so the "new" given was that the negative should be lower than the positive. Then "is floodgate active all the time or only when the compression dial is all the way on" discussion went round and round.
> 
> And now we're starting all over again. "I've heard the negative should be higher than the positive" and "floodgate only works when the compression dial is full on". And so it goes. Heck, we can cycle back and forth here for at least a couple more years doncha think?


If people start posting nonesense with no ability / logic to back it up then they'll have to be corrected.

How a Fork works really isn't hard, yes RS haven't done anyone any favours with there higher - pressure BS it's just sales speal, you can make your forks more active yeah great sadly it works the opposite way.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Turveyd said:


> yes RS haven't done anyone any favours with there higher - pressure BS it's just sales speal,


I don't think RS recommends running the (-) chamber higher than the (+) chamber


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

kapusta said:


> I don't think RS recommends running the (-) chamber higher than the (+) chamber


They don't. Just higher than we all have found works the best. When I sold one of my Revelations to a guy a few weeks ago I handed him the manual, turned to the page that shows "recommended pressures" and crossed out Rockshox' recommendations. Then I wrote in my weight "165 lbs" (that's what he weighed too) and "80+/65-". I said "start there".

Before I did all the experimenting to finally come up with those numbers, I was as clueless as the manual would have us be. I mean, look at the very first post on this thread. I thought I knew what I was doing. :nono: :nono: :nono:


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## RudeSechsVibe (Aug 24, 2008)

kapusta said:


> I don't think RS recommends running the (-) chamber higher than the (+) chamber


Sort of. My manual says "Start with a negative air pressure equal to the positive air pressure, then increase or decrease to match your riding style."

There is a footnote below this that says "Negative air pressure should not exceed positive air pressure by more than 15 psi."

I have tried this 15-over setting and it creates a very plush initial travel, but I could never acheive full travel no matter what. This is a very misleading setup IMO.


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## DTL (Jan 10, 2009)

I just purchaed a 2011 Spec Epic Comp 29er (4 inches of travel front and back). It came with a Reba rlt. I'm approximately 180-185 with gear. Can someone recommend a good place to start with psi for positive and negative air chambers. I am mostly doing xc/trail riding. Lots of roots and short steep climbs but no real big hits or jumps. Thanks!


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

90+ 75-. That will get you started. Now read the entire thread!


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## DTL (Jan 10, 2009)

Thanks for the numbers xcguy. I'll give that a try next ride.


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## flsurflocal (Feb 22, 2010)

Sorry to add another opinion to this very informative thread. I tried many of the suggestions posted here and have found that for me what works best is an equal split. I tried the 15 psi less in the negative chamber but it just didn't feel right, at least for me. I weigh around 185 and found that a 110 +/- gave me exactly 3 cm of sag which is 30% for my 100 mm reba rl. 115 gave me exactly 25% sag. Feels super plush for the first 2 inches of travel combined with a fast rebound. This is my fourth fork in the last year. I went through a marz 33 tst2, marz 44 tst2, magura durin 120, to finally end up with the reba. All of these arent even close to the reba in terms of small bump compliance. I'm really blown away how subtle the reba feels.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

flsurflocal said:


> Sorry to add another opinion to this very informative thread. I tried many of the suggestions posted here and have found that for me what works best is an equal split. I tried the 15 psi less in the negative chamber but it just didn't feel right, at least for me. I weigh around 185 and found that a 110 +/- gave me exactly 3 cm of sag which is 30% for my 100 mm reba rl. 115 gave me exactly 25% sag. Feels super plush for the first 2 inches of travel combined with a fast rebound. This is my fourth fork in the last year. I went through a marz 33 tst2, marz 44 tst2, magura durin 120, to finally end up with the reba. All of these arent even close to the reba in terms of small bump compliance. I'm really blown away how subtle the reba feels.


That's what cool about the Reba, its tuneability. It seems to me like you've got both pressures up too high, like they're fighting each other. Your positive is wanting to ramp up fast but your high negative is fighting it to give you at least a sweet 2 inches but not much more.

Forget sag, try 100+ and 85-, just for the heck of it and report back what you find out. I bet you will still have small bump compliance and more travel. You can always pump them back up. It's all a compromise, eventually just tune for what you want the most. Me, full travel on the big hits is important as well as sbc and for my 165 lbs that's 80+ 65-.


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## flsurflocal (Feb 22, 2010)

Thanks, I'll try the 100 -85. Still a fairly new fork for me so I've got some fiddling to do. The reba did go through some changes I believe in 2009. I think one of those changes was that they made the fork more linear, so a sweet spot setup for them might be different. Correct me if I'm wrong.


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## DTL (Jan 10, 2009)

Rode my 29er epic with 100mm reba today. Ran 100 psi in both + and -. I go about 185 with gear and the fork felt too soft. I had too much sag and it rode too low in its travel. I was on pretty linear xc trails and noticed lots of brake dive and bob when climbing even with compression damping set at full and floodgate about three full turns clockwise. I'm gonna try about 110 in both chambers next ride. Any other suggestions?


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

DTL said:


> Rode my 29er epic with 100mm reba today. Ran 100 psi in both + and -. I go about 185 with gear and the fork felt too soft. I had too much sag and it rode too low in its travel. I was on pretty linear xc trails and noticed lots of brake dive and bob when climbing even with compression damping set at full and floodgate about three full turns clockwise. I'm gonna try about 110 in both chambers next ride. Any other suggestions?


Yeah, run less negative than your positive by 15 lbs. Forget 110 in both chambers, run 100+ and 85-. Your "too high" negative is sucking down your fork, giving you too much sag and brake dive. If you find that 100+ 85- doesn't work, bump BOTH up an equal amount.

I have to say I'm giving advice based on my 2008 and earlier Rebas and Revelations. Is Rockshox building these differently now?


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## DTL (Jan 10, 2009)

xcguy said:


> Yeah, run less negative than your positive by 15 lbs. Forget 110 in both chambers, run 100+ and 85-. Your "too high" negative is sucking down your fork, giving you too much sag and brake dive. If you find that 100+ 85- doesn't work, bump BOTH up an equal amount.
> 
> I have to say I'm giving advice based on my 2008 and earlier Rebas and Revelations. Is Rockshox building these differently now?


I'm going to experiment with the 15 less psi in neg. Will this still allow for good small bump compliance? I'm riding a 29er on xc trails so over roots and rocks is more important then big hits (no drops, jumps for me :nono. Thanks!


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

DTL said:


> I'm going to experiment with the 15 less psi in neg. Will this still allow for good small bump compliance? I'm riding a 29er on xc trails so over roots and rocks is more important then big hits (no drops, jumps for me :nono. Thanks!


That is pretty subjective. The only way to know is to try it. The positive pressure is going to have a lot to do with how it feels on larger roots and rocks.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

It's all a compromise. I started this thread thinking more negative than positive "solved" my small bump compliance needs, but that just introduced other issues. You can't have it all, not with any fork, but the Reba/Revelation etc forks allow you to fine tune for whatever is most important to you. Me, all around fork performance is what I want.

If you dial using all your fork's travel (put a zip tie on one of the stanchions) out of the equation, well then your needs are different than mine.


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## flsurflocal (Feb 22, 2010)

Yep I think you're right about the more positive than negative pressure. On my very very first ride I think I had 120 or 125 positive and like 130 negative. Small bumps were gone but it ramped up really fast. No good on bigger stuff. 115/115 also ramped up quite a bit. Let some air out on the trail by just just gently purging. I measured it after my ride at 100 and 80 negative. Felt like it was much more linear. I definitly used up alot more travel but small bump compliance wasn't great. 100 and 90 negative feels pretty smooth and sag is still at 25% (Still gotta trail test it). Before 115/115 gave me 25% sag.

Its all preference I guess. Higher - than + felt faster since less energy was lost when standng up to pedal etc but hitting bigger roots and such bounced back pretty hard. Small bump comp was phenomenal since at those pressures the fork rebounded really really fast for small hits.

Higher +than - better on bigger hits and more linear but way more motion when standing up to pedal and more brake dive. Oh thats right thats why I have "Motion" Control. I think as long as the spread isn't too wide you still have really good small bump comp.

Anyways feel like Im just restating findings on earlier posts. Here is the review where it states that the new rebas are more linear. http://mountain.bike198.com/2009-rock-shox-reba-team-final-review/


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## DTL (Jan 10, 2009)

Rode my reba this weekend with 100 + and 85 - as opposed to the previous ride 100psi in both chambers. Sag setting was better from the start and the fork didn't set as deep in it's travel when just riding along. I still had good small bump compliance and it felt good over some of the bigger hits as well. I ran the motion control about 4 to 6 clicks clockwise towards full lockout and the flood gate 3 full turns clockwise towards the +. I still had some brake dive and bobbing while climbing out of the saddle but it was better then my previous ride. Now I just have to decide if I want to leave it and fine tune with compression damping and floodgate or bump up the psi a bit in both chambers to establish a bit more platform against the brake dive and bobbing.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

DTL said:


> Rode my reba this weekend with 100 + and 85 - as opposed to the previous ride 100psi in both chambers. Sag setting was better from the start and the fork didn't set as deep in it's travel when just riding along. I still had good small bump compliance and it felt good over some of the bigger hits as well. I ran the motion control about 4 to 6 clicks clockwise towards full lockout and the flood gate 3 full turns clockwise towards the +. I still had some brake dive and bobbing while climbing out of the saddle but it was better then my previous ride. Now I just have to decide if I want to leave it and fine tune with compression damping and floodgate or bump up the psi a bit in both chambers to establish a bit more platform against the brake dive and bobbing.


Using compression settings alone (compression and floodgate), It is going to be pretty hard to dial out bobbing while climbing out of the saddle and still have a compliant fork (unless you engage the lockout).

While I think compression damping is important (you certainly need SOME), I find that it is best to use the spring rate (in this case air pressure) as the primary means of dialing out too much dive from braking or in corners .


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

I know this post might garner some "read the entire nine pages of conflicting information and make a decision based on the differing information provided here" responses, but I'm going for it anyway.

1. Maybe we should start a new thread with new information (since 2009, the Reba is supposed to be more linear and some of the suggestions in this thread might not apply?)

2. In that thread- or maybe here- can someone just spell out 4-10 steps for setting up your Reba? Seems like there's a lot of talk about pressure, but not a lot about Compression, Rebound and FG settings. 

I have always been a Fox guy and love my Fox forks, but I'm coming into a new bike for a great deal and it has a Reba RLT on it. I rode a Reba in 2009 and had several bad crashes before I was able to figure it out- in fact, I never figured it out. Sold it and went back to Fox, but I want to believe that I can find that sweet spot in the newer Reba design.

On a Fox fork, it's basically 1) Set your air according to Sag; 2) Set your rebound about 1/2 way, and make minor (1-click) adjustments from there (usually 4-5 clicks from full fast); If you have the RL, that's it. If you have the RLC, 3) Set your compression speed and lockout blowoff. 

That's it.

Is there any way to construct something similar for the post- '09 Reba?


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## ryguy135 (Sep 24, 2010)

Here's what I can gather.

1. Set the positive pressure accounting for sag.
2. Set the negative pressure to within +/- 15 PSI of the positive pressure. Higher for plusher performance, lower for a stiffer fork and less bob.
3. Set the rebound, same way as Fox forx.
4. Set the compression where you like it.
5. Set the floodgate where you like it. Set it like the threshold on a Fox fork, but take note that it has effect in all compression settings, not just lockout.

Someone might want to check me on that.

That said, any idea why I have to have my Reba (11 RL, knocked down to 80 mm) at +140/-150 to get the sag right? Seems really high. I'm only 6'0 and 160 lbs.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

ryguy135 said:


> Here's what I can gather.
> 
> 1. Set the positive pressure accounting for sag.
> 2. Set the negative pressure to within +/- 15 PSI of the positive pressure. Higher for plusher performance, lower for a stiffer fork and less bob.
> ...


It's a new day with a new group of Reba owners figuring out their fork.

Does the new Reba manual say to set the +/- like you have yours set for your 160 lbs?
"Ignore what the manual says" was always my mantra.

Try this (I know it's gonna sound weird but you and I weigh about same): 85+/70-. Just try it. All the other compression/floodgate settings are up to you but you have to start with your pressures at least in the ball park.

The way I originally set my first Reba was: I went out on a huge expanse of slickrock out in Utah, took out all the negative and pumped up the positive just so I didn't bottom out too much but I would bottom out on big hits. Then I pumped up my negative till it felt right and it always wound up around 85+/70-.

What was my sag at that point? I dunno, maybe 1/2-3/4", but how the fork performed to me was the key point, not what my sag was.


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## DTL (Jan 10, 2009)

I'm still experimenting with my 2011 rebal slt 100mm. Rode it yesterday with 110+ 95-. It felt pretty good but still a lot of brake dive and riding a little low in it's travel even with compression set six clicks towards full firm and floodgate three full turns clockwise. Bumped the + up to 120 and - up to 105 and noticed right away the shock riding in a more normal (sag setting) position when just pedaling and compression damping set at four to six clicks towards full firm having more effect on brake dive etc. The fork still had plenty of plushness over small (3-4") obstacles. I think I'll ride this setting for a while (120+ 105-) to test it out. It seems anything lower than 120 in the + and I am setting too low in the forks travel when just sitting and pedaling on the bike even with the - 15 psi lower. I go about 180-185 with gear and this is actually within the manufacturers recommended setting for my weight, at least for the + chamber.


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## BruceBrown (Jan 16, 2004)

DTL said:


> I'm still experimenting with my 2011 rebal slt 100mm. Rode it yesterday with 110+ 95-. It felt pretty good but still a lot of brake dive and riding a little low in it's travel even with compression set six clicks towards full firm and floodgate three full turns clockwise. Bumped the + up to 120 and - up to 105 and noticed right away the shock riding in a more normal (sag setting) position when just pedaling and compression damping set at four to six clicks towards full firm having more effect on brake dive etc. The fork still had plenty of plushness over small (3-4") obstacles. I think I'll ride this setting for a while (120+ 105-) to test it out. It seems anything lower than 120 in the + and I am setting too low in the forks travel when just sitting and pedaling on the bike even with the - 15 psi lower. I go about 180-185 with gear and this is actually within the manufacturers recommended setting for my weight, at least for the + chamber.


Sounds about right. On my new REBA XX - and I weigh the same as you - I set it at 115 to 120 in the + and things feel good with the correct amount of sag. Negative I set using the PUSH tip found much earlier in this thread. Usually ends up with my - psi being between 90 - 100 psi. Come to think of it, that's what I run on the older REBA's as well.

BB


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## DTL (Jan 10, 2009)

BruceBrown said:


> Sounds about right. On my new REBA XX - and I weigh the same as you - I set it at 115 to 120 in the + and things feel good with the correct amount of sag. Negative I set using the PUSH tip found much earlier in this thread. Usually ends up with my - psi being between 90 - 100 psi. Come to think of it, that's what I run on the older REBA's as well.
> 
> BB


So you are running about 20-25 or more psi less in the negative than psitive? If so what advantage does this give you over just 15 less psi in the negative?


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## Nickbm3 (Nov 10, 2010)

Hey guys, i recently serviced my reba, and ive been noticing more oil than before coming out of the neg air valve when i disconnect my pump... is this normal and im just noticing more oil because it was low before the servicing?


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

Nickbm3 said:


> Hey guys, i recently serviced my reba, and ive been noticing more oil than before coming out of the neg air valve when i disconnect my pump... is this normal and im just noticing more oil because it was low before the servicing?


How much oil are we talking about? I do get a little oil coming out the air valve occasionally on mine. Nothing significant, but the valve is sometimes a little wet with oil.


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## Mtn-Rider (May 21, 2010)

Nickbm3 said:


> Hey guys, i recently serviced my reba, and ive been noticing more oil than before coming out of the neg air valve when i disconnect my pump... is this normal and im just noticing more oil because it was low before the servicing?


That's supposed to happen, if it doesn't it means there's no oil in the negative chamber. It can be avoided by flipping the bike upside-down and them pumping up the negative chamber. I don't think it's worth the trouble for a drop of oil that comes out and lubes your air pump for you.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

The Negative Seal is just the positive Seal, so as long as there oil in the top it'll be lubing the 1 seal and not really a worry.

Oil migrates from the Positive to the Negative though over time so you should top up the + and purge the negative with the bike the right way up frequently, I've found.

As the seal wears it will migrate faster, use a thick oil, I actually use a few squirts of white lithium grease it migrates less and expands the wearing seal, so major bonus's.


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## Nickbm3 (Nov 10, 2010)

Thanks guys. Its not a lot, but enough to coat my fingers when unhooking the pump.


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## flsurflocal (Feb 22, 2010)

xcguy said:


> It's a new day with a new group of Reba owners figuring out their fork.
> 
> Does the new Reba manual say to set the +/- like you have yours set for your 160 lbs?
> "Ignore what the manual says" was always my mantra.
> ...


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

I've been riding my '11 Reba RLT 29 (100mm) for about 3-4 rides so far- not bad, really. Better than I remember the Reba feeling a few years back.

1. I'm about 185ish loaded and ready to ride. Using the "fill up the + side first, set sag, then negative side" approach, I need about 135psi to get 15% sag (it's more of an XC bike). I then set the negative to 120 from recommendations here. More or less feels pretty good on most terrain. Still dialing it in. Might drop it down a little and go for 20mm (20%) sag. Any thoughts on this? (I'm still blown away by how poor the service section is on the RS website).

2. When I have the compression set to lockout and the floodgate all the way on (all the way clockwise), the fork resists compression a bit, but pretty easily goes through about 20mm of travel and can be pushed through about 60mm or so with some force. On a Fox fork (with threshold set the same), when it's locked out, it's pretty much just locked out. Is this just how the Reba works or is it possible that there's something not quite right?


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

alshead said:


> I've been riding my '11 Reba RLT 29 (100mm) for about 3-4 rides so far- not bad, really. Better than I remember the Reba feeling a few years back.
> 
> 1. I'm about 185ish loaded and ready to ride. Using the "fill up the + side first, set sag, then negative side" approach, I need about 135psi to get 15% sag (it's more of an XC bike). I then set the negative to 120 from recommendations here. More or less feels pretty good on most terrain. Still dialing it in. Might drop it down a little and go for 20mm (20%) sag. Any thoughts on this? (I'm still blown away by how poor the service section is on the RS website).
> 
> 2. When I have the compression set to lockout and the floodgate all the way on (all the way clockwise), the fork resists compression a bit, but pretty easily goes through about 20mm of travel and can be pushed through about 60mm or so with some force. On a Fox fork (with threshold set the same), when it's locked out, it's pretty much just locked out. Is this just how the Reba works or is it possible that there's something not quite right?


About #1: maybe that's what's being recommended these days to set "sag" but that's not how I do it. Maybe the newer Reba's are different, but try this:

Find a representative trail section with what you typically ride. Take all the air out of the negative side, that's right, all of it. Pump up the positive (forget about sag for the moment) to, I don't know, 90 lbs. Ride some of your trail. Does it bottom out a lot? Pump up the positive a bit more. Ride some more. Does it bottom out less? Pump it up a bit more (still no air in the negative side). Now hit your typically biggest hits---does it bottom out just a few times?

Now pump up your negative to where small bump compliance feels good (floodgate/compression are all off for this test). For me that always wound up about 15 lbs less than the positive. Your sag is what it is.

I never started out going for some mythical "sag" number, it just wound up being about 1/2" or a bit more.

It just seems that 135+ is too much for a guy weighing 185 geared up. But yours is an '11 so maybe it just works differently than my '08.


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## Smiff (May 1, 2008)

i can't get full travel out of my reba. i took the spacers out a while ago to have about 120mm of stanchion exposed. no matter how hard i jump on it, i can't get more than about 80 to 90 mm of travel (actually even less taking into account sag, probably about 50mm in regular riding).
if i let all the air out i can compress it to about 115mm/5mm exposed i think (these numbers from memory, should be about right).
the odd thing is it feels quite harsh when aired up as if it's bottoming out on something with about 40mm left. 
any ideas please?
the actual feel of the travel that i get is ok (at least until the stanchions get wet, but that's another topic..)

btw i'm light (60kg*) and run about 90+,70-
running 90+,90, gives me so much sag i get almost no usable travel at all.
not sure what to try really. i've serviced it twice and both times it's felt better (plusher) after for a while, but never had more travel.
not 100% sure whether i have a 120mm or 100mm fork - it came with one spacer inside and one spare, but claimed to be only 80/100 adjustable (2008 SL)

*i'd still like to be able to nearly bottom it out sometimes!


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## Hudnut (Apr 12, 2005)

Smiff said:


> i can't get full travel out of my reba. i took the spacers out a while ago to have about 120mm of stanchion exposed. no matter how hard i jump on it, i can't get more than about 80 to 90 mm of travel (actually even less taking into account sag, probably about 50mm in regular riding).
> if i let all the air out i can compress it to about 115mm i think (these numbers from memory, should be about right).
> the odd thing is it feels quite harsh when aired up as oif it's bottoming out with about 40mm left.
> any ideas please?
> ...


when was the last time you rebuilt the damper? if oil is leaking past the lower seal the fork will hydrolock at the bottom of its travel.


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## Smiff (May 1, 2008)

wow fast reply thanks.
i changed all the seals except one in the damper (couldn't figure out where it went, didn't want disassemble the MC unit) and refilled it less than 2 months ago.
since the fork fully compresses with the air out, i don't think its hydrolocking? that is roughly what it feels like though i.e. harsh stop.

like i said i'm 60kg but feel i should be able to set the fork up in such a way that i get good small bump compliance AND can nearly bottom it out occasionally e.g. landing hard on the front.
at the moment the fork is really only good at medium size bumps.

i guess the next thing would be try a stupid pressure like 40psi and see what happens. will report back!


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## Nickt30 (Nov 22, 2007)

*My setting that have been relieable over the years*

1) empty both chambers
2) fill + to recommended setting on the side of the fork for your weight
3) fill the - to the same
4) now measure sag
5) add or subtract 1-3lbs to tune sag....change both + & - chambers
6) now change the - chamber accoring to feel
increase by 2-10lbs for more plush (about 3-5lbs feels fox plush)
or
decrease by 2-5 lbs for more firm

Then I ride and fine tune the sag further taking into account the rides biggest hit
i like to see about 70-80% of travel used by the end of a moderate effort ride

I run my Reba U-turn (adjustments made at longest setting) and a SID 100 using the same procedures

rider wt: 5'10 185lbs out of the shower

Reba u-turn 140+/138-
WC Sid 100 145+/146-

theshold for the lockout set on med blow off
rebound a bit quick......rocky trails


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## flsurflocal (Feb 22, 2010)

I think Im slowly ceeping up to higher pressures as I'm blowing through travel. I dont think Rock Shox is too far off in their pressures. I tried 100, 105, 110, in the positive with negative set lower. It felt more linear but I was blowing through travel pretty quick. I weigh 185 and Im back in the 120 psi range, maybe slightly higher and I can actually feel some ramp up again which is good. I think before with my lower pressures it was absorbing single hits pretty good but had too much brake dive especially going down hills with all my weight on the front wheel. And with all that brake dive just leaning on the fork, if another hit comes along there's not much more travel left to absorb the shock. That reminds me of a youtube video showing an R7 in action. I think they are pretty linear but the acton is just plain ugly as you can see the the fork pretty far compressed for long periods of time not able to absorb additional hits. 

I hope Im not making others here mad since most have come to the conclusion of running lower pressures with negative pressures lower than positive. Do what works for you and your terrain. It takes quite a few rides to experiment.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Thank you*



Nickt30 said:


> 1) empty both chambers
> 2) fill + to recommended setting on the side of the fork for your weight
> 3) fill the - to the same
> 4) now measure sag
> ...


Nickt30- this is awesome. I've been playing with some different pressures, and always with the negative set about 10-15psi lower given reports on this and other forums. HOWEVER, I have been feeling like the fork runs a little harsh and stiff (I've had it from 120-135 positive). I set it up last night at 120(ish) positive and negative and I'm going to give that a shot- I had better sag than the other setups, and the brake dive doesn't seem any worse than normal (compared to my fox). Your tip about upping the negative to get it to feel more "fox plush" is what I've been looking for. If this doesn't work, I'm going to be looking to unload the Reba and pick up another Fox...


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

alshead said:


> Nickt30- this is awesome. I've been playing with some different pressures, and always with the negative set about 10-15psi lower given reports on this and other forums. HOWEVER, I have been feeling like the fork runs a little harsh and stiff (I've had it from 120-135 positive). I set it up last night at 120(ish) positive and negative and I'm going to give that a shot- I had better sag than the other setups, and the brake dive doesn't seem any worse than normal (compared to my fox). Your tip about upping the negative to get it to feel more "fox plush" is what I've been looking for. If this doesn't work, I'm going to be looking to unload the Reba and pick up another Fox...


No reduce the negative for Fox plush, I've ran the Reba with nothing in the negative pretty much, as the + had gone into the negative and it was sitting at 50% sag area, it rides much nicer with less in the positive and very little in the negative.

+105/-70 currently, it becomes to active if I run the - any lower for me.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Reba Bliss*

Finally figured out how to get my Reba running just how I like it...


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## TenBeers (Apr 17, 2009)

Lots of interesting setups here and some good guidance. Here's my setup along with some opinion on tuning.

This is on a hardtail 29er with a 100mm fork. I use this bike on mostly smoother trails, but there are small drops I take that some folks steer around, so I use all of the fork and my settings might be a little higher than you need.

I weigh right around 200 lbs. with riding gear/Camelbak etc. My + side is at 120 and - side is at 112.

What I Did: I only used sag as a starting point to validate that initial pressure is less than SRAM says it should be. I started with pressures even at 125/125 and did a few rides. I didn't use near all the travel, so dropped to 115/115 and did a few rides. I then read these forums and went to 115/105 pos/neg and liked the feel. I did a ride with a decent drop and bottomed out, so I bumped back up to 120/112.

My opinions on basic tuning of a dual air Reba:

- Start with pressures even (a little less than recommended), no compression damping. For rebound damping, since I am on the heavier side, I only go 4 clicks in from full rabbit. As a guide, for each 10 pounds under 200 you are, go in another click from there to start.

- Ride your trails. Don't tweak on the trail unless it is completely awful, give it some time. If you bottom out, go up a little. If you don't use all the travel, go down a little (5psi increments). Keep the pressures even. Ride again. Only make small, infrequent changes. Patience, grasshopper. The goal is to find the spring rate that lets you use all of your travel.

- Once you get it to where you typically use all the fork travel on your favorite trails, you are really close to your ideal spring rate for your weight and trails. You can now mess with the negative chamber to improve feel to your liking. If you think it rides harsh, do 5psi higher in neg. If you think it dives too much, do 5psi less.

- If you end up with a difference of greater than 15% (probably around 15psi) between pos/neg chambers, you probably need to go up or down in the pos chamber to get you closer between the 2 pressures. With my limited understanding of physics, a difference of greater than 20% between chambers would just be wacky and not work optimally. But some people roll that way.

- Once you get your optimal settings, write them down and always start there. Continue riding and get a feel for your different trails. You may want to evenutally experiment with changing settings (a little, not a lot) based on the character of the specific trail, but it's probably not going to make a lot of difference.


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## Smiff (May 1, 2008)

TenBeers said:


> - Ride your trails. Don't tweak on the trail unless it is completely awful, give it some time. If you bottom out, go up a little. If you don't use all the travel, go down a little (5psi increments). Keep the pressures even. Ride again. Only make small, infrequent changes. Patience, grasshopper. The goal is to find the spring rate that lets you use all of your travel.


This. it's taken me two years to get my reba working pretty well and consistent (don't laugh!). mainly because i kept f**ing with the red rebound knob. then it fell off, which was the best thing that ever happened to this fork. because then i realized the difference in feel was down to friction around the wiper.

condition of the stanchions is crucial (at least at the low pressures i run). *clean and dry stanchions are not slippery enough; water (from rain or washing) actually makes them so sticky the fork hardly works. i have to run a wet lube*. the Fork Juice dry silicon stuff works but not for long, the Finish Line polymer stuff seems to keep working for longer (if you don't have/won't spend the money on this, any synth lube that doesn't damage plastics or attract much dirt would probably be ok here - recommendations welcome! come to think of it, fox float fluid, the blue stuff, would probably be good. 85w gearbox oil i think?).

i've now got into a routine of wiping the stanchions clean, wipe around the wipers, pumping the forks, wiping, pump, wipe until spotless, then apply a few drops of your lube to the stanchion just above the front of the wiper so it runs around the wiper lip (any more and it just runs down the legs), pump, wipe again. the fork action is drastically improved but this has to be done every ride (and take the stuff to do it mid ride if riding far).

I can't stress enough, without this care the forks are totally rubbish; far too much stiction! maybe mine are faulty in some way, like the tolerance or stanchion coating... I doubt it, the anodising looks perfect, and i've serviced them recently. notice the same effect with my Joplin adjustable seatpost btw.. needs lube to be smooth. simple as that.

i've used both original RS wipers and Enduro btw, both have these problems, the Enduro are giving a better feel now but still need frequent attention. i think it's just a physics/materials thing that would be the same on any fork without a totally different design of wiper or stanchion coating (and afaik they're all very similar in this respect, hence the fact you can use the same wipers across makes). i've never heard this mentioned before (? sorry for not reading entire thread) so here's perhaps my contribution to this thread 

i also agree with everyone above who said to keep the -ve pressure well below the +ve, and lots of other good stuff in this thread. yes, higher -ve might counter the stiction, but then i get no travel. ultimately no substitute for experimentation with this fork.
i also need a more accurate shock pump because the "sweet spot" seems to be very narrow.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*Seriously?*



Smiff said:


> This. it's taken me two years to get my reba working pretty well and consistent


Why I went back to Fox


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## Smiff (May 1, 2008)

alshead said:


> Why I went back to Fox


well in fairness.. i think i was being more than a bit thick vis-a-vis this fork (though normally i'm good at this type of stuff). and i've never owned a Fox fork. have ridden then, and they're nice. when the reba works, it's possibly nicer. but it's difficult to set up. my fox rear shock just keeps on working.. the reba was also half the price of a fox fork which is pretty important.

also.. alshead you're not really being funny or helpful here sorry. reba is a hugely successful fork so obviously lots of people like it..


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## DTL (Jan 10, 2009)

Well I've been riding my 100mm reba slt at 120 + and 105 -, rebound set to full slow. I've found that on more technical trails I am still left with about 1 inch of travel. I've tried to lower the pressure by 5 to 10 psi in both chambers to squeeze out the last 3/4 of an inch of travel but the shock/front end just doesn't feel as stable at my weight with gear and I feel like I'm riding too low in the travel. So I think 120 + 105 - and about 3 to 3 and 1/4 inches of travel is the best I'm gonna get. At this setting the shock feels good over small stuff but still a little harsh over bigger roots etc. I have also found that at this setting it is still hard to get any effects of compression damping to reduce bob/brake dive unless I go 6or more clicks towards full lockout. I have floodgate set 2 full turns clockwise towards +. By the way I am about 185-190 with riding gear.


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## DTL (Jan 10, 2009)

alshead said:


> Finally figured out how to get my Reba running just how I like it...


I see your point. I'm starting to think the same. I've always ridden fox forks in the past and they just seem to be more plush and consistant with less effort to set up. I'm going to stick with the reba for a while though.

On another subject, did you switch the rear tire on your epic to a captain/same as the front? If so have you noticed any better handling? I was thinking of doing the same.


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## Smiff (May 1, 2008)

my reba's been running particularly well the last couple of weeks. raised the +ve to 6bar and dropped negative nearly to 4 (not accurate shock pump, by feel when i can just feel the top out (off the bike pumping the fork) i know it's about right. have given up trying to get full compression out of it. doesn't matter it works great even if there's only about 80mm travel). in PSI those values are about 85/60 and i weigh 60kg.

anyway that's not why i'm posting: it's been unusually dry in April in England. trails are dusty, the temperature is also way above average. no mud, so no need to wash the bike either.

are the two things connected? i'm sure they are. anyone else with a Reba in a place that normally rains a lot, noticed their fork doesn't like the wet?*

only been giving it a wipe and some of the silicon spray lube and it's great every time. 
wish it was always like this! (not just for the fork..)

* i mean really really doesn't like the wet, had my suspicions after a wet weekend in Wales where the fork basically stopped working completely on the last descent but now i'm pretty convinced my problem is to do with water on the stanchions or in the seal head area. have changed the wipers once (to Enduro), may try another set of OE RS ones next..

i still have the problem of not getting full travel posted here http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=704171


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## Sid Nitzerglobin (Sep 17, 2010)

Huh, I thought wiping down the stanchions and wipers and relubing after each ride was just regular fork maintenance. That's generally the extent of the maintenance I've found necessary however (no re-wiping/lubing/pumping). I've been doing this w/ both the '09 Reba Race on my HT and the F120 on my FS. 

I generally don't ride in wet weather but both of these forks have seen a fair bit of snow riding. Never felt the need to relube mid-ride, but I'm not usually going over 25 miles or so on any given ride.

I haven't had any issues w/ stiction of yet and I've gotten it to the point of consistently using ~110-115mm of my 120mm of travel when jumping the bike or hitting the rougher stuff. It has seemed pretty finicky to get dialed in but I've been attributing that to so many variables and tweakable settings. High frequency trail chatter still feels noticeably harsher on the Reba than my Fox.


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

Sid Nitzerglobin said:


> High frequency trail chatter still feels noticeably harsher on the Reba than my Fox.


It's the negative stopping the fork extending in time to the next bump which is ruining that, lower negative pressure or faster rebound ( big hits it might pogo you ) should solve that.

Why I run 105+/70- any more and rocks beat my hands up.


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## kneecap (Dec 20, 2003)

9 pages of tuning!!!!!!!!!!!!?????
Get something else!


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

I have a '10 Reba Team 29 on my Air 9... Geared up I'm probably 185-190lbs currently... I run 125psi +ve, 132 -ve... Gives me about 25-30% sag, nice and plush, no skittering over small stutter bumps or roots... love the control... Detented compression knob is great for dialing in depending how agressively I'm riding that day... and I've yet to bottom out. Like it better than the Fox 120 RL I had on my 26er FS.


EDIT: been messing with settings on the dual, since I was finding a bit too much fork dive... reading from some of the many Reba threads on mtbr, decided to try 125psi +ve, and 110psi -ve. Much reduced fork dive. A bit firmer and little loss of plushness, but I find it more controlled overall this way (less movement), with reduced fork dive. Also a click or two on the compression instead of full open seems to a good setting for me on my local trails. Gate knob set at about half.


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## Smiff (May 1, 2008)

kneecap said:


> 9 pages of tuning!!!!!!!!!!!!?????
> Get something else!


it's a popular fork. post somewhere else!!

i'm thinking there must be lots of varation between rebas, from year to year and maybe even variation between batches, because the advice here is all over the place. there are lots of different models too of course. and they may take a long time to loosen up from new...
i'm in the "keep the -ve well below +ve camp" and have started my own camp "keep it dry or wet lube the stanchions".
haven't worked out yet whether i should be greasing or lubing the air side, or how to get full travel, or how to stop the rebound knob falling out. but it cost £240 and it's working to the point where i can ride as hard as i dare and the fork is not limiting me much so that'll do, until i can afford a Revelation (when they work properly?) or SID or something with 120-140mm travel (only get about 80mm from the reba in reality!)


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## kneecap (Dec 20, 2003)

Just grumbling, I own one of the first sl u-turn, & although the stiff chassis was nice, I never could get it dialed in so that it would be compliant & not blow through travel at the same time. And now, after maybe 4 months of light use, it leaks fluid out of the u-turn top cap, not to mention, that that outer twist part fell off on the trail somewhere.
I would hope they have been improved over the years ?


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

kneecap said:


> Just grumbling, I own one of the first sl u-turn, & although the stiff chassis was nice, I never could get it dialed in so that it would be compliant & not blow through travel at the same time. And now, after maybe 4 months of light use, it leaks fluid out of the u-turn top cap, not to mention, that that outer twist part fell off on the trail somewhere.
> I would hope they have been improved over the years ?


I owned stock Rebas along with a Fox 32 100 RLC. Fox lovers would rave about this fork and it was pretty sweet, if all you wanted was 2 1/2" travel. Very stiff, set it and forget it, and never more than 2 1/2" travel. There was nothing wrong with it, that was as good as it got.

My stock Rebas/Revelations I could always dial in more of what I wanted but of course no stock fork is perfect so it didn't do everything perfectly. Till I had one of the Rebas PUSHed and it then did everything perfectly all the time. Send yours to PUSH and witness the magic.

That would be cheaper than a new fork and, indeed, better than a new fork.


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## Smiff (May 1, 2008)

xcguy said:


> Till I had one of the Rebas PUSHed and it then did everything perfectly all the time. Send yours to PUSH and witness the magic.


i like to do my own work, for several reasons (money, interest..)
so what do PUSH do exactly (or roughly?) these are simple enough forks (unlike the RP23 shock i've been reading about..) so i don't believe it should be beyond most people to "tune" them themselves, or is it?
they must be doing something to make the fork less progressive, to get more useful travel.. adding air volume would be one way (external reservoir? but that's not what they do..)


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Smiff said:


> i like to do my own work, for several reasons (money, interest..)
> so what do PUSH do exactly (or roughly?) these are simple enough forks (unlike the RP23 shock i've been reading about..) so i don't believe it should be beyond most people to "tune" them themselves, or is it?
> they must be doing something to make the fork less progressive, to get more useful travel.. adding air volume would be one way (external reservoir? but that's not what they do..)


Check this out:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=534902&highlight=PUSH


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## Smiff (May 1, 2008)

xcguy said:


> Check this out:
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=534902&highlight=PUSH


ah i see, thanks. bit more to it than i thought.
1st, they should sell a kit with just the modified parts, i'd be happy to buy that at a reasonable price and fit it myself. i'm not happy to send my fork off and pay as much as a new one have someone else do it though. since i can't buy the parts i'm just going to use my reba till its trashed (the anodising is going already) and then buy whatever is on offer at merlin. that way i already know how to service the fork and have some spare parts to reuse.
2nd, RS/SRAM should be buying some of that tech and integrating it back into the product line (or maybe that's what BlackBox does? can you buy a blackbox damper and retrofit to older reba?)


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

Smiff said:


> ah i see, thanks. bit more to it than i thought.
> 1st, they should sell a kit with just the modified parts, i'd be happy to buy that at a reasonable price and fit it myself. i'm not happy to send my fork off and pay as much as a new one have someone else do it though. since i can't buy the parts i'm just going to use my reba till its trashed (the anodising is going already) and then buy whatever is on offer at merlin. that way i already know how to service the fork and have some spare parts to reuse.
> 2nd, RS/SRAM should be buying some of that tech and integrating it back into the product line (or maybe that's what BlackBox does? can you buy a blackbox damper and retrofit to older reba?)


I'm with you there, paying 60% of my fork price on a service I can do myself and a upgrade of the bits sounds crazy to, but I might be tempted to buy and fit the kit myself, hmmmm.

Same on the rear shock, I'm not going to spend £120 each year all in getting that serviced, my previous RP3 lasted 4 years and out lived the frame and is still fine, although running out of damping range slowly. £480 saved on servicing, new shock £200 area go figure.


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## Smiff (May 1, 2008)

anyway i'm more curious about getting full travel from my reba than the rebound stuff, which i'm pretty sure neds a mod to the air side, not the damper.
any more info on what PUSH do with the air side please, anyone? i'm thinking of looking for one of those external air tanks (in the UK?) slight danger of bottoming out the fork (now i know what those plates of rubber in the official service kit are for heh!)


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Smiff said:


> anyway i'm more curious about getting full travel from my reba than the rebound stuff, which i'm pretty sure neds a mod to the air side, not the damper.
> any more info on what PUSH do with the air side please, anyone? i'm thinking of looking for one of those external air tanks (in the UK?) slight danger of bottoming out the fork (now i know what those plates of rubber in the official service kit are for heh!)


I don't know squat about the technical side but the way PUSH forms their proprietary parts allows for nearly full travel. Don't ask me how, something to do with oil flow. My explanation in that thread I linked you to was just my interpretation of what Darren was telling me as he was working on my Reba. When he read what I wrote he said "hmmmmmm".


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## yahdancer (Nov 17, 2008)

I'm thinking about buying a Reba with UTurn. My wife has a SID that is about seven years old and I watch her crank that UTurn around for what seems like 5 minutes, while I just flip the switch on my Fox Talas and am gone. Now I read that the UTurn can be changed on the fly. Is it simpler now or does it still take a load of revolutions?


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

yahdancer said:


> I'm thinking about buying a Reba with UTurn. My wife has a SID that is about seven years old and I watch her crank that UTurn around for what seems like 5 minutes, while I just flip the switch on my Fox Talas and am gone. Now I read that the UTurn can be changed on the fly. Is it simpler now or does it still take a load of revolutions?


Both Coil and Air Adjustable shocks take loads of turns like days of old, only the Air forks can be adjusted on the fly, Coil shocks Jam.

There is a 2 step version of some of the forks, instant drop from 150 - 120 only Rev's I think though, but there reliability is well pretty poor.


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## Smiff (May 1, 2008)

Smiff said:


> i can't get full travel out of my reba. it feels quite harsh when aired up as if it's bottoming out on something with about 40mm left.


ok two parts to this

1) you can't fully compress an aired up fork, duh!
2) later it was hydrolocking, but in the lower not the damper, probably after oil leaked down.

if you do a lower oil change with the forks on the bike upside down, you can make sure you fully compress the fork before tightening the bolts. excess oil will squeeze out, then tighten the bolts. the 15ml they say is only roughly right, this way you get it exact (i think?).

i'm now down to only ~15mm travel unused. much better 
still on stock internals btw.

***

wish i had clicks on my rebound control as i've no idea where it is.

confused why PVD refers to compression adjustment here:
http://www.pvdwiki.com/index.php?title=Tuning_a_2007_RS_Reba_Team
does he mean the remote pushloc? because poploc is on/off. i could fit a thumbshifter, but really never felt the need to adjust this, does anyone else?
could just take the spring out of the damper and make my own knob i guess. not paying stupid money for their knobs.

going to try to find some of this RedLine stuff, he loves it. availibility of fork oils in UK is shite. my LBS wants £16 for 473ml of Finish Line (£32 for both weights, when you only need a tiny bit :/)


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## Iowagriz (Jan 14, 2008)

Thanks to the tuning tips, I've been able to get good performance out of my 11' Reba RLT. However, I still can't get the lockout (with the PopLoc Adjust) to fully lockout. What am I missing? I realize that it is made to "blowout" on big hits, but I'm still getting 1" of movement when locked out (out of saddle road climbing, no bumps). Weight is 165 loaded up. Past Reba with manual lockout was a full lockout and I want that with the remote.

Any tips?


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Iowagriz said:


> Thanks to the tuning tips, I've been able to get good performance out of my 11' Reba RLT. However, I still can't get the lockout (with the PopLoc Adjust) to fully lockout. What am I missing? I realize that it is made to "blowout" on big hits, but I'm still getting 1" of movement when locked out (out of saddle road climbing, no bumps). Weight is 165 loaded up. Past Reba with manual lockout was a full lockout and I want that with the remote.
> 
> Any tips?


Are you sure your PopLoc (I always hated those things) is actually fully locking out your Reba? Cable is tight, adjustment is such that when you engage it it's the same as you fully turning a manual compression dial?

Is your floodgate dialed so that when fully "locked out" the fork doesn't want to move? Not that you'd want that, I always had my floodgate dialed to almost off.


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## Iowagriz (Jan 14, 2008)

xcguy said:


> Are you sure your PopLoc (I always hated those things) is actually fully locking out your Reba? Cable is tight, adjustment is such that when you engage it it's the same as you fully turning a manual compression dial?
> 
> Is your floodgate dialed so that when fully "locked out" the fork doesn't want to move? Not that you'd want that, I always had my floodgate dialed to almost off.


I'm fairly certain that the PopLoc is installed and adjusted properly, but I have my doubts on the floodgate. How do I adjust/play with the floodgate settings?


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## 29erWannabe (May 20, 2010)

Iowagriz said:


> I'm fairly certain that the PopLoc is installed and adjusted properly, but I have my doubts on the floodgate. How do I adjust/play with the floodgate settings?


The floodgate determines whether the fork is going to "break" the lock and how soon... If you wish the fork to be rigid when locked (which means it will remain locked despite any bump at all) you set the floodgate full clockwise. In the event you want the fork to react to small bumps you choose full counter clock wise. And in between ofcourse as you see fit...

I own the manual compression damping control with the lever, and on this model you find the floodgate right on top of the lever. It is marked GATE.

Hope this helps...:thumbsup:


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## Iowagriz (Jan 14, 2008)

29erWannabe said:


> The floodgate determines whether the fork is going to "break" the lock and how soon... If you wish the fork to be rigid when locked (which means it will remain locked despite any bump at all) you set the floodgate full clockwise. In the event you want the fork to react to small bumps you choose full counter clock wise. And in between ofcourse as you see fit...
> 
> I own the manual compression damping control with the lever, and on this model you find the floodgate right on top of the lever. It is marked GATE.
> 
> Hope this helps...:thumbsup:


I have the GATE control on the top of the stanchion to full positive and it did make a small difference. I want more. Do I increase the + or - pressure, or are there more adjustments inside of the stanchion (ports or valving that I can get to)?


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## 29erWannabe (May 20, 2010)

Iowagriz said:


> I have the GATE control on the top of the stanchion to full positive and it did make a small difference. I want more. Do I increase the + or - pressure, or are there more adjustments inside of the stanchion (ports or valving that I can get to)?


The GATE along with the forks set to locked should do it...

Personally I have only used one pressure setting since day 1 - following the 60% load = + pressure / - set to positive -10 psi - so I wouldn't know whether increasing the pressure will make a difference. Maybe someone who has tried it should comment on it...


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## xdeity (Jan 9, 2011)

When I use my Reba race on the road I dial up both the + & - to 150 psi and turn the gate ful clockwise, it still reacts if I go over a large pothole but that's how its designed to work. Obviously off road it doesn't matter cause the gate is switched off once you open it up, I run it at /125 psi each and weigh 186


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## Iowagriz (Jan 14, 2008)

Thanks for the tips. I'll work on it next week.

Interestingly, I raced this past weekend with the gate on full +. Small bump compliance must have been more compromised than previously noticed becuase I have a numb finger 5 days after the race (3hr race). Never had that in the past. I should probably go back to my previous settings and play with the air pressure more.


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## mtbiker627 (May 21, 2011)

I had a question on how to set the internal floodgate. I read on the manual that maximum floodgate= full clockwise. I attempted to close it fully clockwise; however, the screw does not stop at any point. 

How can you tell if your floodgate is at max? Is it suppose to stop eventually going clockwise?


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## Turveyd (Sep 30, 2007)

mtbiker627 said:


> I had a question on how to set the internal floodgate. I read on the manual that maximum floodgate= full clockwise. I attempted to close it fully clockwise; however, the screw does not stop at any point.
> 
> How can you tell if your floodgate is at max? Is it suppose to stop eventually going clockwise?


You'd of thought it should stop, I didn't mess with mine that much, backed it off to a level of if I forget to unlock the fork I'll still have pretty much full use and left it.

Try fiddling with it, lock the fork out then bash the fork down and see how it reacts / opens, might have a busted control rod.


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## s2ramz (Jun 27, 2011)

Hey folks newbie here, i need suggestions on setting my•RockShox Reba RLT 29er fork with 100mm travel. i want a flush ride, im about 150lbs, probably 160 with gears on, any help pls..


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## marquism2 (Dec 27, 2010)

I'm on my second Reba and it's been a couple years since the first one, which I tuned using advice found in this thread. I just re-read almost this whole thread and carefully dialed everything in. The first Reba is on a DW-link full suspension frame, so when I got just the right balance of plush and firm in both the fork and shock, the bike felt perfect end-to-end. The latest Reba is on a Felt RXC hardtail. The front end with the Reba is perfect, but now I'm feeling like all that front-end perfectness is wasted because the back end still bounces around. I like the RXC because it's built up super light and fast, but I've been spoiled by Reba plushness.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Holy Resurrected Thread, Batman!

Do the latest Rebas ride same/better than a few years ago? The older ones are all I know.


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

marquism2 said:


> ... the back end still bounces around. I like the RXC because it's built up super light and fast, but I've been spoiled by Reba plushness.


What you're noticing is how the rear suspension setup (or lack of rear suspension) can affect how the front fork feels. Identical SIDs, one on an Anthem X and the other on a Scott carbon hardtail feel radically different. The SID on the hardtail feels like it lacks all plushness and small bump compliance even though the forks are identical.


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## marquism2 (Dec 27, 2010)

Old threads should never die - they're where information lives. 

To me, the new Rebas seem pretty much the same as my 2006 model, especially if they're set up almost the same. A little lighter and mostly just refinements rather than changes. Things like the markings on the stanchions for sag, better rebound dial. Some things are the same, like the sticker with pressure recommendations that aren't going to be right for most people. 

And actually, to me the way the Rebas feel on both hardtail and full suspension is about the same, which was my point. Surely it's true that lack of a rear suspension affects how a fork feels and the settings used, but after dialing in both Rebas on the respective bikes I'm just noticing the difference in the saddle based only on the lack of the rear suspension.


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## tehschkott (Apr 2, 2009)

Awesome thread guys. Thanks


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## Iowagriz (Jan 14, 2008)

Iowagriz said:


> I have the GATE control on the top of the stanchion to full positive and it did make a small difference. I want more. Do I increase the + or - pressure, or are there more adjustments inside of the stanchion (ports or valving that I can get to)?


To update the thread on how I solved. I found through experiementation that my lockout didn't pull enough cable to fully lockout. If you imaging the lockout dial on the fork moving from 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock to gain full lockout, my poploc was only pulling to 5 o'clock.

By compensating at the startiing point, it now pulls from 1 to 6. The 1 o'clock position still feels fully open and no issues.

(times are only used as an example and not meant for setup)


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## alphajaguars (Jan 12, 2004)

I haven't ridden in 4 years, so finding this thread again has been GREAT!!

Took lots of notes, and when I pick my bike up from getting tuned up I will be spending some times on the trails getting it dialed back in.

Thanks, guys!!


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## jtemple42000 (Apr 12, 2012)

Newbie question....

I just brought home a 2012 Scott Scale 29er Elite that has the Reba fork on it. I upgraded from a Schwinn Sidewinder Wally World special so I'm learning. I was adjusting the +/- air pressures to my weight ~240lbs. I got the + pressure set and it appears to hold, but when I attached the pump to the - side the pressure was only 50 psi I pumped it up to the recommended psi on the fork tube for my weight and the pressure wouldn't stay, as soon as I quit pumping, the needle on the gauge starts falling. Is this normal? Or is there something wrong with the seals inside the fork.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

jtemple42000 said:


> Newbie question....
> 
> I just brought home a 2012 Scott Scale 29er Elite that has the Reba fork on it. I upgraded from a Schwinn Sidewinder Wally World special so I'm learning. I was adjusting the +/- air pressures to my weight ~240lbs. I got the + pressure set and it appears to hold, but when I attached the pump to the - side the pressure was only 50 psi I pumped it up to the recommended psi on the fork tube for my weight and the pressure wouldn't stay, as soon as I quit pumping, the needle on the gauge starts falling. Is this normal? Or is there something wrong with the seals inside the fork.


If it was the seals inside the fork it would have read 0 from the start.

The negative side chamber is really small. Not much air loss will cause the gauge to fall dramatically. Make sure your pump connections are secure. Even disconnecting the pump nozzle slowly will make that chamber lose a large percentage of its volume. And when you reconnect your pump, the air filling up the hose will make the pressure in that chamber drop. Fun, huh?

Let us know if pumping your fork's chambers up the "numbers on the fork tube" works for you. If not, re-read this thread for ideas on what numbers to use instead.


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## jtemple42000 (Apr 12, 2012)

thanks xcguy.

This whole adjustable fork thing is new to me. I just had assumed that the pressure that was in it when I brought it home was not enough, I'm not a little guy.... I will read through this thread and get an idea on how these are being set up, I just wanted to make sure that there was nothing wrong right from the beginning with the low side. I had figured that the numbers on the fork tube would be a good starting point, starting to sound like that isn't the case. Thanks for the heads up.


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## alphajaguars (Jan 12, 2004)

My LBS says there was no oil in my fork. 

Should be interesting to see how different it feels once I pick it up this afternoon.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Can someone update what works with the newest Rockshox forks? Are the innards different and require a different proceedure? Has Rockshox revised their estimates of how many lbs to put in so a new buyer could maybe actually follow the instructions?


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## reedfe (Sep 5, 2011)

I picked up my 2010 Reba Team with Blackbox MoCo a couple days ago and took it out for it's test on the trail. It was nice but I was hoping for something more. I've got it set to 75+ and 85- for better small bump compliance as per Rockshox's online guide to setting up dual air forks. I had about 30mm of sag which I thought was a little much for a 100mm fork but I went with it anyways. The majority of my trails are composed of 3-4 inch roots and some very short downhills lasting about 2 seconds at the most (thanks South Florida) and the occasional 1-2 ft drop/rollover.

I set the MoCo at 2/6 clicks of compression, 8/20 clicks of rebound towards the turtle, and 1/2 turns of Floodgate all in the clockwise direction. I noticed a lot of rider induced movement in the fork as I nearly got all travel pumping for a 1.5 inch front wheel lift. I was hoping for the fork to better in the area of small bump/root absorption as it was kind of harsh to my surprise. 

If you guys could suggest some tuning tips for me that would be awesome! I weigh about 155 lbs loaded and ride a 29er if that is important. In order of priority, I'm looking for good small compliance and a bottom out on a 2ft drop, good rebound for those fast quick and bumpy downhills, with about 25mm's of sag and minimal pedal bob/rider induced dive. Thanks for the help!


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

reedfe said:


> I picked up my 2010 Reba Team with Blackbox MoCo a couple days ago and took it out for it's test on the trail. It was nice but I was hoping for something more. I've got it set to 75+ and 85- for better small bump compliance as per Rockshox's online guide to setting up dual air forks. I had about 30mm of sag which I thought was a little much for a 100mm fork but I went with it anyways. The majority of my trails are composed of 3-4 inch roots and some very short downhills lasting about 2 seconds at the most (thanks South Florida) and the occasional 1-2 ft drop/rollover.
> 
> I set the MoCo at 2/6 clicks of compression, 8/20 clicks of rebound towards the turtle, and 1/2 turns of Floodgate all in the clockwise direction. I noticed a lot of rider induced movement in the fork as I nearly got all travel pumping for a 1.5 inch front wheel lift. I was hoping for the fork to better in the area of small bump/root absorption as it was kind of harsh to my surprise.
> 
> If you guys could suggest some tuning tips for me that would be awesome! I weigh about 155 lbs loaded and ride a 29er if that is important. In order of priority, I'm looking for good small compliance and a bottom out on a 2ft drop, good rebound for those fast quick and bumpy downhills, with about 25mm's of sag and minimal pedal bob/rider induced dive. Thanks for the help!


How did you come up with more negative than positive? If you've read this thread you would know that's the opposite of what's recommended. Try 90 positive 75 negative. Remember, you can't have it all with any fork but the Reba gives you the best chance of getting an overall great ride.


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## reedfe (Sep 5, 2011)

xcguy said:


> How did you come up with more negative than positive? If you've read this thread you would know that's the opposite of what's recommended. Try 90 positive 75 negative. Remember, you can't have it all with any fork but the Reba gives you the best chance of getting an overall great ride.


As stated in my first post, I came up with more Neg than Pos because of rockshox's online guide for setting up dual air for better small bump compliance which is what I am looking for. I've also read through some of the thread and noticed that some other people looking for better small-bump compliance were also running higher negative than positive. However I did also read some people running a lot lower Neg than Positive like 90-60 in theirs so I will try that next time I go to the trials also.

Do you have a recommendation on how to set the Blackbox Motion Control? Can you tell me if the Blue compression knob is High or low speed compression? What about the Floodgate? I know that has an effect on how much pressure it takes to blow off the blue compression so I'm assuming that that is the high speed compression and the blue compression is Low speed (rider induced). I've also found that the blue compression knob gets more effect the higher the gate is. I've researched through some articles but I just keep getting confused. This whole major adjust ability is new to me after coming from an SR suntour fork.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

I'll let those who own newer Rebas talk about their tuning. My Reba is three years old, maybe the internals are different. I found that higher negative than positive (regardless of what Rockshox recommends) pulled my fork down and would brake dive too much. Whatever marginal SBC I attained (read the very first post on this thread) I quickly discovered just wasn't worth the virtual lack of travel.


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## reedfe (Sep 5, 2011)

Mine is actually a 2010 that I picked up slightly used so any information you could impart on me would be relevant.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

reedfe said:


> As stated in my first post, I came up with more Neg than Pos because of rockshox's online guide for setting up dual air for better small bump compliance which is what I am looking for. I've also read through some of the thread and noticed that some other people looking for better small-bump compliance were also running higher negative than positive. However I did also read some people running a lot lower Neg than Positive like 90-60 in theirs so I will try that next time I go to the trials also.
> 
> Do you have a recommendation on how to set the Blackbox Motion Control? Can you tell me if the Blue compression knob is High or low speed compression? What about the Floodgate? I know that has an effect on how much pressure it takes to blow off the blue compression so I'm assuming that that is the high speed compression and the blue compression is Low speed (rider induced). I've also found that the blue compression knob gets more effect the higher the gate is. I've researched through some articles but I just keep getting confused. This whole major adjust ability is new to me after coming from an SR suntour fork.


First start with working out the pressures. With minimum compression of any sort, try to recreate the max hit or drop you want the fork to be able to soak up without bottoming. Set the + pressure to handle that (for the sake of ease, I keep the neg pressure about the same as positive while I work this out). Then start messing with the neg pressure, which mostly effects the beginning of the travel. You just have to play with it to see what you like best. I think the majority of people end up with around 10 psi less in the neg chamber, but its really just personal preference. In any event, I think few people end up with more neg than positive.

As far the the compression and floodgate, you are quite correct that at lighter floodgate settings, the compression knob has less effect.

The floodgate is most often described as the blowoff threshold for the lockout, which it is. When too much pressure builds up at the compression damper, the FG opens up and essentially bypasses the compression damper. This is easy to see when the fork is "locked out". The compression damper is closed, thus preventing movement of the fork, but if enough force builds up, the damper is bypassed, and the fork can move. The FG adjuster dictates how much pressure is needed at the damper to open the FG.

What many people do not understand is that the floodgate is acting the same way even when the fork is unlocked. Its just that in this case (fork unlocked) it is harder to build up a lot of pressure at the compression damper, so a floodgate set to open up only under a lot of force when locked out may seldom open up under normal riding conditions. The blue compression damper knob is completely controlling the compression damping. However, if you run the FG really light, it takes much less pressure at the compression damper to open the FG. With a light enough FG setting, and firm enough compression setting, pressure from a typical bump can open up the FG. So this means it is essentially limiting the maximum damping force that the regular compression damper can exert. Thus the compression knob seems to have less effect on the ride.

After writing this I realize I may have only confirmed what you already know about the FG and compression settings, but not really helped. Sorry

Here is a post from 2006 where I talk about how the different compression and FG settings can work out. My preferences have changed a bit since then, and I am talking about a Pike, rather than a Reba, but the basics still apply.


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## croakies (Mar 4, 2011)

Good post Kapusta.

I found the LSC hard to fine tune on the blackbox damper but try these setting and tune from here.

Put the blue knob (LSC) 1 or 2 clicks out from full lockout(full lockout is clockwise) (this controls rider induced movements)

On the floodgate go 4-7 click out from fully open/off (full open is counter clockwise) (This controls how harsh fast/large hits feel, it also controls how soon the LSC stops supporting against rider induced movements)

I am also a fan of less - than + (i usually run 15-20psi less) but its really up to you. Equal pressure feels good as well but I feel that the fork wallows and dives in its travel when you get any higher than that which ends up feeling harsher.


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## reedfe (Sep 5, 2011)

Alright I will give that a try. Any Idea where as to set the rebound? Is the Idea to have it as fast as I can without it feeling pogo-ey? Or just fast enough to avoid packing down? I'm assuming on the faster side because of my want for better small bump compliance but I also want control on those short rocky downhills. That's why I had it at 8 clicks from fast. 

So the general consencious is to set the Pos+ air for the biggest hit I'm going to take. Next set the Neg- air. I think I'll probably start at pressure then work my way lower on a typical stretch of trail. Should I set rebound next? Then I'll set compression to cancel out rider input. And then I'll set floodgate to somewhere around 1 turn? I'm thinking I could set this to blowoff if I go up a shorter 4 inch curb fast without weighting. Does that sound like a good plan? I'll tweak once I get out to the trails.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

reedfe said:


> Alright I will give that a try. Any Idea where as to set the rebound? Is the Idea to have it as fast as I can without it feeling pogo-ey? Or just fast enough to avoid packing down? I'm assuming on the faster side because of my want for better small bump compliance but I also want control on those short rocky downhills. That's why I had it at 8 clicks from fast.
> 
> So the general consencious is to set the Pos+ air for the biggest hit I'm going to take. Next set the Neg- air. I think I'll probably start at pressure then work my way lower on a typical stretch of trail. Should I set rebound next? Then I'll set compression to cancel out rider input. And then I'll set floodgate to somewhere around 1 turn? I'm thinking I could set this to blowoff if I go up a shorter 4 inch curb fast without weighting. Does that sound like a good plan? I'll tweak once I get out to the trails.


I know this thread is really long and probably no one reads the entire thing these days but, yes, it's been said: take all the negative air out, pump up the positive to maybe 50. Try going off some small to larger drop, a curb will do. Do you bottom out? Pump up some more positive, leave the negative at zero. Rinse and repeat till you just don't bottom out on the smaller stuff but, yes, can bottom out on a large hit. For my 165 lbs that was around 85-90 lbs +. Then pump up the negative (remember that the negative chamber is really really small and you lose air when you take the pump off if you're not quick, also you fill the pump hose again when you re-attach it, you just need to experiment) till SBC feels good. Some look at their fork and see when the negative starts pulling the fork down as they're pumping up the negative but I never did. 85+ 70- was what worked for me.


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## elias1 (Aug 29, 2012)

*reba vs recon solo air*

hi I am new to this site and i am nit able to post a new thread so i would like to ask here
is solo air a bad system? is dual air reba worth the double money or solo air is just fine for a rider that likes to ride as much as posible and getting better without aiming in races?
i have a dart2 120 mm and i have managed to use only 60 in a freeride downhill track so i am looking into a new fork dor my kona one20.

the costs. recon silver tk 2011(solo air) 129 euros ( 162 usd)
reba rl 2012 (dual air) 260 euros ( 324 usd)

i would like your advise based on these numbers and facts as i am inexperienced with forks
thanks :thumbsup:


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## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

elias1 said:


> hi I am new to this site and i am nit able to post a new thread so i would like to ask here
> is solo air a bad system? is dual air reba worth the double money or solo air is just fine for a rider that likes to ride as much as posible and getting better without aiming in races?
> i have a dart2 120 mm and i have managed to use only 60 in a freeride downhill track so i am looking into a new fork dor my kona one20.
> 
> ...


Neither the Reba nor the Recon are "freeride downhill" forks and if you only use 60mm of travel I doubt you are into freeride or downhill... Not to mention the one20 is a XC/Marathon bike


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## elias1 (Aug 29, 2012)

yeah i know i just mention that to intensify the problem with dart 2
i ride cross-country
so whats your opinion between theese two and about solo air
thanks


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## ryguy135 (Sep 24, 2010)

All RS forks are going Solo air for 2013. I really like the adjustability of the dual air, so I hurried to make a purchase of a 2012 Sid before they were gone. That said, the little bit I've seen on solo air seems to be positive.

The big difference between the two forks you list isn't the spring, it's the damper. The Reba has Motion Control, whereas the Recon only has Turnkey. The motion control is a far superior damper. You can upgrade the Recon to MC, but I definitely think the Reba is worth the extra coin to get it from the get go, along with the adjustability of Dual Air (while it's still available, which won't be long) and the lesser weight.


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## elias1 (Aug 29, 2012)

where does the damper help ? when it is locked only or all the time
and i supose solo air is superior of recon with coil (given i am quite light)


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

elias1 said:


> hi I am new to this site and i am nit able to post a new thread so i would like to ask here
> is solo air a bad system? is dual air reba worth the double money or solo air is just fine for a rider that likes to ride as much as posible and getting better without aiming in races?
> i have a dart2 120 mm and i have managed to use only 60 in a freeride downhill track so i am looking into a new fork dor my kona one20.
> 
> ...


If you are only using 60mm of 120mm, it sounds like you need either lower air pressure (if it is an air fork) or a softer spring (if it is coil). This is true of any fork.

The differences between those forks is more than just the dual / solo air. They have very different dampers as well which makes a bigger difference than the dual/solo air part. Is it worth the price difference? Really depends on how much 130 Euros is worth to you.


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## ryguy135 (Sep 24, 2010)

The lockout on the two would be the same- but damper on the Reba will help keep the front wheel on the ground better anytime it's not locked out.

Coil vs air is more of a preferance thing. Coil is heavier and is more common on long travel forks where weight is less of an issue. Coils are linear in the rate at which they compress, air forks tend to be more progressive.


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## reedfe (Sep 5, 2011)

xcguy said:


> I know this thread is really long and probably no one reads the entire thing these days but, yes, it's been said: take all the negative air out, pump up the positive to maybe 50. Try going off some small to larger drop, a curb will do. Do you bottom out? Pump up some more positive, leave the negative at zero. Rinse and repeat till you just don't bottom out on the smaller stuff but, yes, can bottom out on a large hit. For my 165 lbs that was around 85-90 lbs +. Then pump up the negative (remember that the negative chamber is really really small and you lose air when you take the pump off if you're not quick, also you fill the pump hose again when you re-attach it, you just need to experiment) till SBC feels good. Some look at their fork and see when the negative starts pulling the fork down as they're pumping up the negative but I never did. 85+ 70- was what worked for me.


With your help, I've found the sweet-spot for me. 
(I weigh 155 loaded)
65+, 45-
5 clicks of rebound towards turtle
5 clicks of compression to lockout
9 clicks of floodgate towards full.

Provides me with active small bump and enough pedaling resistance.


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## marc1978 (Oct 24, 2012)

I recently found this:

http://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/missioncontrol_tuningguide_en.pdf


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## ATown17 (Nov 6, 2012)

Great info here. Subscribing


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

any 130 lbs riders out there? what settings are you using?


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## trevor_b (Nov 21, 2012)

Subscribed for when I get my bike in the spring.


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## reedfe (Sep 5, 2011)

reedfe said:


> With your help, I've found the sweet-spot for me.
> (I weigh 155 loaded)
> 65+, 45-
> 5 clicks of rebound towards turtle
> ...





Gabe3 said:


> any 130 lbs riders out there? what settings are you using?


Since that original post, I've lost some weight. I'm now about 145 geared up. For some time I was running about 57+, 47-, and that was good for XC riding even though the pedal platform was less than perfect (that is using the other knobs mentioned.) However since that I've bumped it up to about 70+, 60- as I've started doing rougher stuff, taking more drops as my skills imporved. Probably start at 65+, 55- if you dore more trail riding with your reba or try 55+, 45- if pure XC riding.


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## Bataivah (Feb 19, 2011)

I was looking for a simple answer on what motion control does on the 2011 reba RL. I don't have the
floodgate/high/low compression knobs, just 1 knob thats open-locked-and motion control "clicks"
in between. I never got info in my manual as to what the in between MC clicks acually do.
High speed, low speed, or what? After playing with it on the trail I can only think it makes it stiffer
with each click until it's at full lock-out setting. What I can't figure out is if it's low or high speed
compression that is getting stiffer. I'm sure the answer is here somewhere but I can't find it and I
did'nt want to make a new thread and beat an old dog to death lol. Anyone else running a RL with
just the motion control knob that knows what it is doing as far as high/low speed compression
damping? I'm fine with all the +/- air and rebound settings, it's just the MC settings I'm not sure about
yet.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

Bataivah said:


> I was looking for a simple answer on what motion control does on the 2011 reba RL. I don't have the
> floodgate/high/low compression knobs, just 1 knob thats open-locked-and motion control "clicks"
> in between. I never got info in my manual as to what the in between MC clicks acually do.
> High speed, low speed, or what? After playing with it on the trail I can only think it makes it stiffer
> ...


It's good to be specific about exactly which fork any question is talking about. When I started this thread Reba's were new and I'm sure the design and the way they work have changed year to year. So going through the entire thread for advice on a newer fork might be a bit frustrating.


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## Bataivah (Feb 19, 2011)

I was hoping to get some feedback so I don't need to make a new thread. If I don't get any after a while then I'll just go ahead and make one for the 2011 RL I suppose. Tons of great info on tuning
the air springs and rebound here though.


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## Bataivah (Feb 19, 2011)

Oh, never mind. I found the answer finally.


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## rakerdeal (Oct 28, 2008)

Does anyone know if the Reba 90mm fork that comes on the 2012 Specialized Stumpjumper hardtail has a spacer in it.....thus can be converted to a 100mm? I ask because I have two Stumpjumpers and one has a 100mm fork and I like it so much more. Of course I will ask the shop guys too but....


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## Bataivah (Feb 19, 2011)

The 2012 reba's that I've seen came with 100/120 travel. So should have a 20 mm spacer
on it. If it is only 90 then there must be 30 mm in there like a 20 and a 10 mm. I do know
the 2011 and 2013 come with 80/100/120 so the 90mm seems odd to me. I can only think
specialized added a 10mm to it for the steer head angle.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

I've had my Reba SL 29 80mm for about 4 months now and have tried many different pressure combinations. I weigh ~190lbs and ride a medium Raleigh Talus 29er.

I originally set it up at +125/120 which was ok. Already a big improvement over the Suntour XCM that was stock. Then tried +130/-132 but didn't notice any significant improvement in ride quality. At +140/-130 the fork was too stiff and it was very twitchy and bouncy. At all these settings I had the MC rebound set to half way between turtle and hare.

Today I applied the %60 -10 theory and ended up at +110/-100 and the fork feels perfect. Pedaling platform is solid. Steering is responsive and predictable and the ride is plush! I could barely feel all the frozen ruts in the trail!


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## speedneeder (Mar 26, 2013)

Need some 2013 solo air tuning info in here


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## Bataivah (Feb 19, 2011)

*Solo air*



speedneeder said:


> Need some 2013 solo air tuning info in here


At 165 lbs. 100 psi is close. Then I go with rebound 2 or 3 clicks from fast and mc at 1/2 or off for now. Then see how that feels for you. As a starting point mainly... : )


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## speedneeder (Mar 26, 2013)

Interesting - I installed the fork last night and set the pressure at 65psi and I weigh 168 - 18% sag.

what is MC?
i have 4 adjustments possible - pressure, lockout, rebound, and I don't know what the knob on top of the lockout is/does.


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## Bataivah (Feb 19, 2011)

speedneeder said:


> Interesting - I installed the fork last night and set the pressure at 65psi and I weigh 168 - 18% sag.
> 
> what is MC?
> i have 4 adjustments possible - pressure, lockout, rebound, and I don't know what the knob on top of the lockout is/does.


The MC is the motion control and its low speed compression. So at low speeds it will slow down the movement of the forks. I've been playing around with mine, but normally end up just leaving it off most of the time since I still get a fair amount of movement when I climb steep hills. I mostly like mine fully open when on flats and down hill, and fully locked when I climb. With the MC on, they get noisy when you ride fast on rough terrain and and I don't like the noise much lol.


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## Bataivah (Feb 19, 2011)

speedneeder said:


> Interesting - I installed the fork last night and set the pressure at 65psi and I weigh 168 - 18% sag.


I know they say to set the sag, but what works better for me is to set the air so it won't bottom out when acually riding hard on the trail. It ends up normally giving me around a 1/4" to 1/2" of sag when it's all done. If I set more sag than that I always bottom out while riding. I don't like bottoming my baby's out.
But yea, these are only my personal preferences and yours will be different. : )


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## speedneeder (Mar 26, 2013)

Good point - just got back from the trail, a little wet so not going fast and nearly used all my stroke, gonna have to up my pressure a little for full speed. That said, what an amazing difference from my coil spring fork that came with the bike.


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## Bataivah (Feb 19, 2011)

Yea, my coil forks were nice and stiff, but I like my air forks way better. I saved around 2 lbs. switching to them also.


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## BarryGXNZ (Jan 11, 2010)

First time on bumpy trails last weekend, and I found my fork was topping out on any drop I went over. I tried adjusting rebound in and out and no difference. They are fine on the landing, not bottoming out. I'm mystified. Haven't adjusted air pressure yet, and that might do it, I may have too much in there, but too much positive, or too much negative? Or too little of one or the other?
Anyone have any advice here?
Thanks
Cheers
Barry


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## fsrxc (Jan 31, 2004)

BarryGXNZ said:


> First time on bumpy trails last weekend, and I found my fork was topping out on any drop I went over. I tried adjusting rebound in and out and no difference. They are fine on the landing, not bottoming out. I'm mystified. Haven't adjusted air pressure yet, and that might do it, I may have too much in there, but too much positive, or too much negative? Or too little of one or the other?
> Anyone have any advice here?
> Thanks
> Cheers
> Barry


If it's topping out even with rebound slowed down, try increasing negative pressure?


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## trevor_b (Nov 21, 2012)

What do you mean by topping out?


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## Bataivah (Feb 19, 2011)

BarryGXNZ said:


> First time on bumpy trails last weekend, and I found my fork was topping out on any drop I went over. I tried adjusting rebound in and out and no difference. They are fine on the landing, not bottoming out. I'm mystified. Haven't adjusted air pressure yet, and that might do it, I may have too much in there, but too much positive, or too much negative? Or too little of one or the other?
> Anyone have any advice here?
> Thanks
> Cheers
> Barry


If you top out you got too much neg pressure. I set mine 5-10 lbs below what my pos is.


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## Bataivah (Feb 19, 2011)

Topping out is when they hit too hard on the rebound.


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

5 psi less in the neg worked perfect for me... Soaks up the small bumps nicely...

Question though... What exactly happens when one bottoms out the fork? I get close to full travel on a typical ride, but there is a section where I get airborne and completely compress the fork. There's no clunk sound or anything, but right after that, my sag is lower... 120mm looks like 80mm... Did I loose air pressure? Did I damage anything?


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## Bataivah (Feb 19, 2011)

Thrawn said:


> 5 psi less in the neg worked perfect for me... Soaks up the small bumps nicely...
> 
> Question though... What exactly happens when one bottoms out the fork? I get close to full travel on a typical ride, but there is a section where I get airborne and completely compress the fork. There's no clunk sound or anything, but right after that, my sag is lower... 120mm looks like 80mm... Did I loose air pressure? Did I damage anything?


sounds like you lost pressure


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Just got my 07 Reba back from service. I'm 190 pounds and set the pressures at 110+/100- with rebound set to half. The fork feels really bouncy now unless I set the rebound to its slowest but that's way too slow. I'm thinking I should up the negative but it already sags a full inch when I sit on the bike. Maybe I'll give it the weekend to see if its just me.


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## Bataivah (Feb 19, 2011)

dgw2jr said:


> Just got my 07 Reba back from service. I'm 190 pounds and set the pressures at 110+/100- with rebound set to half. The fork feels really bouncy now unless I set the rebound to its slowest but that's way too slow. I'm thinking I should up the negative but it already sags a full inch when I sit on the bike. Maybe I'll give it the weekend to see if its just me.


Try them around 125+/115-. that may be better.


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## speedneeder (Mar 26, 2013)

I'm at 85 psi and barely bottoming out at times. 
My rebound is halfway - 7 clicks from the rabbit. 
I don't want to add pressure, thinking about moving closer to the rabbit to see if that helps.


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## Bataivah (Feb 19, 2011)

speedneeder said:


> I'm at 85 psi and barely bottoming out at times.
> My rebound is halfway - 7 clicks from the rabbit.
> I don't want to add pressure, thinking about moving closer to the rabbit to see if that helps.


I normally have my rebound 2 or 3 clicks from the fast setting. When its too slow then it won't track the small bumps very well when I go fast.


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## bank5 (May 7, 2008)

What would you recommend trying for a 195lb SS rider whose main goal is something efficient so I can stand up and bash but I also hit some small rock gardens and small jumps? I'm thinking 20% sag, a bit less psi in neg, half way or closed for the floodgate and rebound set to fast.


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## xcguy (Apr 18, 2004)

I realize this thread is real long and probably no one reads it all the way through anymore. Here's something I wrote a few years ago on how to initially set up the pressures (in Rebas that have positive and negative chambers):

"I first got acquainted with my Reba out in Moab on a huge slab of slickrock. I took out all the negative and pumped the positive to where I wasn't bottoming out much. Then I pumped the negative up for small bump compliance. It always works out to 15 lbs LESS than positive. For my 165, that's 80/65."

By "bottoming out much" I meant that on hard impacts I'd almost bottom out, on real hard impacts I'd bottom out every now and then. Then I'd start pumping up the negative maybe ten pounds at a time, ride around, pump up a bit more, ride some more. Each person has their own riding style and small-bump-compliance needs so not one set of numbers will fit everyone of the same body weight.

And I don't know if PUSH has been mentioned here in awhile so here's a link to their website. Cheaper than a new fork but makes your current fork BETTER than a new fork:

Push Industries - Rock Shox Air Forks


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## blingman (Aug 6, 2011)

xcguy said:


> I realize this thread is real long and probably no one reads it all the way through anymore. Here's something I wrote a few years ago on how to initially set up the pressures (in Rebas that have positive and negative chambers):
> 
> "I first got acquainted with my Reba out in Moab on a huge slab of slickrock. I took out all the negative and pumped the positive to where I wasn't bottoming out much. Then I pumped the negative up for small bump compliance. It always works out to 15 lbs LESS than positive. For my 165, that's 80/65."
> 
> ...


hey,
also sram have some nice bits to use from the upper model reba, like using the blackbox rebound damper from the RLT Ti in the RL or RLT makes a huge difference,
i have installed both blackbox rebound and compression in my 2011 RL and i can highly recommend the rebound damper as it is factory shimmed to better control small and big compliance. also the rct3 damper would be worth a go
cheers paul


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## masahico (Aug 21, 2013)

Since 2 months now I have a SID RLT 100mm solo air (2013) and I'm 90kg/200 lbs. 

pressure at 95 psi
rebound 4 click from turtle
floodgate 10 click from counter clockwise

about the blue knob, his natural position is locked out. And with the remote, you can only control the position on/off. I use a little trick to setup the LSC. In position locked out, I open up a little the blue knob before tightening the remote cable. This way, when I'm locked out, the LSC is not totally closed (I made some controls to see if it's working like I wanted).

I'm pretty all the time in the locked out position and with those settings, the fork not dive too quickly with the brake, but small bumps are still plush. To avoid bottomout, I can tightening the floodgate, it's depend of my feeling on the road.

the only default is maybe the noise of the oil circulation we can hear clearly with the compression of the fork.

I was looking for a poplock adjust remote, but today it's just impossible to find it.


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## thumbprinter (Aug 29, 2009)

to revive a many-times-revived thread… i've read almost the entire thread and it seems like a lot of people my weight (135ish, probably 145-150 RTR) are setting their pos pressure below 90 - i find that if i do +90 i've got about 2 inches of sag. am i doing something wrong? i followed all the usual steps i.e. emptying both chambers and filling the pos first etc...


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## blingman (Aug 6, 2011)

thumbprinter said:


> to revive a many-times-revived thread&#8230; i've read almost the entire thread and it seems like a lot of people my weight (135ish, probably 145-150 RTR) are setting their pos pressure below 90 - i find that if i do +90 i've got about 2 inches of sag. am i doing something wrong? i followed all the usual steps i.e. emptying both chambers and filling the pos first etc...


Hi, have u serviced the fork?
the pressures are just a guide, add more air to get around 30% sag then add the neg to about the same as the pos, if u want more plush add more to the neg but u will get more sag.


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## thumbprinter (Aug 29, 2009)

hey bling, thanks for the response, i have not serviced the fork, just bought the bike used so that is on the agenda for sure. i rode today at +110/-100 and it felt great. fwiw i had the rear shock (fox/spesh futureshock w/brain) pumped up to 110 and it also felt great. when i added enough air to get 25/30% sag in the fork it was like +125/-120 and it felt way too stiff. i guess its all a matter of experimenting to find what works…


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## blingman (Aug 6, 2011)

thumbprinter said:


> hey bling, thanks for the response, i have not serviced the fork, just bought the bike used so that is on the agenda for sure. i rode today at +110/-100 and it felt great. fwiw i had the rear shock (fox/spesh futureshock w/brain) pumped up to 110 and it also felt great. when i added enough air to get 25/30% sag in the fork it was like +125/-120 and it felt way too stiff. i guess its all a matter of experimenting to find what works&#8230;


Yip, try +110/-105 and +110/-110 just keep a record of changes for future reference. 
But there is heeps of other things to look at too depending on the Reba model u have a change to the black box rebound damper makes a huge deference in the performance of these forks


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## thumbprinter (Aug 29, 2009)

good idea, i'll see how that feels different. it does seem like there are a lot of different factors at work between pos/neg/rebound/compression/floodgate…. i can see how each one could affect how the others perform which makes it kinda overwhelming in a way. and also makes using other people's data almost irrelevant unless you specify all of those factors plus body weight, terrain, riding style, etc.


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## gavin77 (Jun 13, 2008)

I have a 2012 Reba RLT29 dual air. I've read through the entire thread over many days, bathroom breaks, etc. I weigh 210-215 ready to ride. Currently I have the + pressure set to 125, and the - to 115, with rebound set 3-4 clicks from rabbit. I don't like a real squishy/divey fork, or as I call plush. Plush feels nice in the parking lot, but at speed on the trail, atleast in my case feels crazy scary. No control, running wide in turns, flat feeling down rocky, rooty downhills, etc. So anyway, my current setup feels much more in control and solid on the trail as far as brake dive, out of the saddle climbing, solid in the turns, etc, but certainly with a less plush feel. Worth it I guess for feeling safer and more in control while hammering hard on the trail. The only out of control, kind of issue I'm having is when flying down this nasty rutted up/rocky downhill at my local trail, things get a little out of control after multiple hits, and I feel like I'm almost bounced off my line without notice and have to do some last second survival riding. What could this be? Any suggestions, ideas? Rebound set to high maybe? Thanks!


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## mcoplea (Nov 11, 2004)

gavin77 said:


> I have a 2012 Reba RLT29 dual air. I've read through the entire thread over many days, bathroom breaks, etc. I weigh 210-215 ready to ride. Currently I have the + pressure set to 125, and the - to 115, with rebound set 3-4 clicks from rabbit. I don't like a real squishy/divey fork, or as I call plush. Plush feels nice in the parking lot, but at speed on the trail, atleast in my case feels crazy scary. No control, running wide in turns, flat feeling down rocky, rooty downhills, etc. So anyway, my current setup feels much more in control and solid on the trail as far as brake dive, out of the saddle climbing, solid in the turns, etc, but certainly with a less plush feel. Worth it I guess for feeling safer and more in control while hammering hard on the trail. The only out of control, kind of issue I'm having is when flying down this nasty rutted up/rocky downhill at my local trail, things get a little out of control after multiple hits, and I feel like I'm almost bounced off my line without notice and have to do some last second survival riding. What could this be? Any suggestions, ideas? Rebound set to high maybe? Thanks!


My guess would be rebound too high. Or, try bringing the neg pressure closer to your positive pressure setting.

https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...ir_tuning_guide_gen.0000000004160_rev_a_0.pdf

performance Tuning
Now that you've adjusted the positive and negative air springs in your fork to achieve proper sag for your
weight, you can fine tune the springs for specific performance characteristics.
For a more supple ride with better small bump absorption:
Pressurize the negative spring 5 to 15 psi more than the positive. Reference the positive air pressure setting
you recorded during sag setup.
Do not reference the pressure indicated on the pump after reattaching it to the fork, as this pressure will be
lower than the recorded pressure.
Do not pressurize the negative spring more than 15 psi higher than the positive spring, as this will increase
sag beyond the recommended amount.
For a firmer, more efficient ride:
Pressurize the negative spring 5 to 15 psi less than the positive. Reference the positive air pressure setting
you recorded during sag setup.
Do not reference the pressure indicated on the pump after reattaching it to the fork, as this pressure will be
lower than the recorded pressure.
Once you have achieved desired sag and spring performance, record your settings, reinstall the air valve
caps, and go for a ride


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