# 1up USA hitch vs their roof tray



## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

1up USA rack users, I need some assurance that the arms won't rotate out while a bike is in the carrier. For the hitch mounted racks the wind forces come across the side of the bike and is protected by the rear of the vehicle. On 1up's roof tray the bike is now inline with any wind forces plus accelerating and braking motions. Is there any possibility that the rear arm would rotate loose? I probably didn't explain this very well but I think you get what I'm asking.

I just ordered the roof tray as I already have an existing Thule roof bar system. Now I'm have 2nd thoughts on this...


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Are you serious? How fast are you driving? Does your bike look like this?










If not, I think you'll be fine. I can unload the rear suspension on my car while pulling on my bike's frame (vertically) and it still doesn't budge. The wind would have to exert a lot more force than that to get the bike to come out. Unplausible.


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## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

Well I went thru the 1up thread and the website and I didn't get a real explanation of how the pivots are held securely except for some kind of spring and friction. The rotation of the arms is in the same direction as the forces experienced on the roof so yes I am serious about the arms are locked in place. There is also the weight of the bike so it is not just the wind's force alone. I think I have a valid question.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

The way the rack's locking mechanism works, the harder you pull, the harder it locks.

As for the rotation of the arms being in the same direction as the wind, again, not a issue. First, the arms just don't have enough surface area for the wind to work against, especially at legal driving speeds. Second, in relation to the front arm, if it could be "pushed" by the wind towards the rear of the vehicle, it would simply get smashed into the bike you're worried about losing, effectively increasing its clamping strength. Third, for the rear arm, you have the same lack of surface area. But, if in some magic world where air suddenly became as dense as water and your car could still drive at supra-legal speeds, the force of the air would only increase the locking force of the arm onto its retention mechanism.

In regular usage, this is how the rack's retention system works: for one arm (that holds the bike) to move clock-wise, the unlocking lever must be moved in the counterclock-wise direction (vice versa for the opposite side). In order for the rack to loosen under the wind pressure, the lever which unlocks the retention mechanism would have to be opened in the opposite direction. Easy for you to do because you have two hands. No so easy for the wind since it can only move in one direction relative to the bike/rack/car. So, in the above ultra-dense air scenario, the force that is pushing the arms open would also be forcing the locking mechanism closed, effectively making it impossible. Unless a gremlin was on your roof.










Could your bike fly off your roof? Absolutely. Every mechanical device can fail. It's just that the more plausible scenario is that a pivot bolt loosens or something. The wind alone is not going to open your rack. The "weight" of your bike is not a factor here, either. In fact, the heavier your bike, the more inertia the system has that the wind must overcome in order to open the rack. That means you'd have to drive even faster, effectively increasing your safety cushion :thumbsup:

You'll be fine.


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## Juicy Yawn (Feb 20, 2011)

was the OP question about whether the arm would swing from the outright tray position, parallel to the rear of the vehicle, to the folded position for storage. there is a lockout to prevent this, no problem at all. i imagine the roof rack has the same lockout. the clamp arms are very solid as well.

proud owner, this thing is way overengineered and very user friendly. family heirloom quality, seriously. 

well, you'll see...


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## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

Alright thanks for the explanation. All the youtube videos show how easy it is to place a bike into the tray and pivot the two arms up but none of them show how the arms are released when you want to remove the bike. Also I couldn't find any instructions online from 1up to explain this either.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

thatdrewguy said:


> none of them show how the arms are released when you want to remove the bike. Also I couldn't find any instructions online from 1up to explain this either.


it's very hard to explain in the abstract, but extremely easy to figure out once it's in your hands. My 17YO daughter figured it out completely on her own in about 2 minutes (between texts).


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## shoal (Apr 26, 2012)

I have the roof trays for little over 3 weeks. They will NOT come loose on the road. The locking mechanism tightens with more force, not the other way around. The side to side movement is more than i expected, but I am waiting on mounts for my wide thule aeroblade bars. I am currently jerry-rigged and that could be why its so wobbly. They have been good with communication on the custom part -- just taking some time.


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## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

shoal said:


> I have the roof trays for little over 3 weeks. They will NOT come loose on the road. The locking mechanism tightens with more force, not the other way around. The side to side movement is more than i expected, but I am waiting on mounts for my wide thule aeroblade bars. I am currently jerry-rigged and that could be why its so wobbly. They have been good with communication on the custom part -- just taking some time.


I hope it's wobbly between your tray and crossbars instead of the bike being wobbly in the wheel carriers. I suppose my criticism for the 1up website is that it provides no information as to what the hardware is used and how it mounts to existing cross bars and no pictures or online instructions that show them either.


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## shoal (Apr 26, 2012)

I agree. That was my problem as well, I asked if they would fit my bars, and they said yes.. They don't fit and I'm still waiting. Not a knock against the company because I love the product and it seems like they will do be right here just have to wait. The bar connecting mechanism is 2 bolts in a channel per bar that slide, the bottom side is a CNC piece of aluminum that is sized for normal to old-style aerobars. Right now I am just using some angel iron and it is pretty soft, so I think that could the reason. It is not wobbling crazy amounts or anything like that, just more than I am used to with my fork mounted trays.


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## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

I received my roof tray today. It does weigh substantially more compared to my two existing Thule fork mount trays. The tray came with 4 bolts, 4 washers and the 2 U shaped brackets for securing underneath the crossbars. No nuts were included.  No instructions were included so my assumption is that in order to slide the bolts into the bottom of the tray channel you have to removed the two allen bolts from the end cap?


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## shoal (Apr 26, 2012)

You should have received instructions and have nuts in there, they are long brass nuts that have round bushing that go into the U shaped brackets.

You are correct, you remove the end of the tray with the allen bolts. The trays are very heavy -- 16lbs each or so. But they are beautiful and work very well. Contact email at 1upusa dot com or give them a call. Hopefully you get them quickly. I am still waiting on my longer U shaped brackets and it has been almost a month now.

Good luck


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## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

Thanks for the info, I'll give them a call in the morning.


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## shoal (Apr 26, 2012)

Just to update-- I got a shipping notice regarding my wide bar adapters. Great company!


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## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

shoal said:


> Just to update-- I got a shipping notice regarding my wide bar adapters. Great company!


Have you thought about any theft prevention ideas for the trays? My Thules at least have the key locks thing that secure the fork mounts to the front bar.


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## shoal (Apr 26, 2012)

that's a goo questiion. I've though about it, but don't really have a solution. I'd hate to see the piece of art get stolen. I have had a car stolen and they took the rack off of it -- that's why I ended up with these. It still cost me the deductible plus some for the entire rack replacement.

Perhaps they make some sort of locking nuts?
that'd be my only solution


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## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

I tried out the roof tray today. Putting the bike up and securing it wasn't much of an issue. Where I was riding was really windy today and I had a tough time getting my bike out of the rack. It almost seems like you need 3 hands to lift the red handle, slide the pivots open, while holding onto the bike. I have to think it has to be easier when these trays are mounted to a hitch.

With the strong winds I was afraid that once I got the front pivot released which requires two hands then there would be no hand available to hold onto the bike so that it wouldn't topple onto the car's roof. Is the trick to drop the rear pivot first but still have some of the rear tire in the pivot before completely lowering the front pivot?


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## Juicy Yawn (Feb 20, 2011)

My trick is this: 
first, I lower the first arm - doesn't matter front or back first.
then, I take one hand to lift the lever to release the second arm, and use my other hand to hold the bike by the frame to move the bike in the direction of opening the second arm. Not touching the arm at this point; one hand on the lever, one hand on the bike.
As I move the bike in that direction the tire on that end stays inside the arm which resists the side to side toppling action, I've also got my hand on the bike anyway but it helps.
Once the arm is fully open the lever hand frees up so I can get the other end of the bike then back that last tire out of the arm and take off the bike.


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## shoal (Apr 26, 2012)

It just takes some practice. You don't have to open the second arm very far, just far enough to have it release and then you let the bike roll to the other arm which is opened enough and then lift your bike out. I love my rack, and everytime I go for a ride someone asks about it.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Try these for security: Barrinut Lock Systems

As others have said, the key is practice. Having it as a hitch mount also makes it a lot easier


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## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

Juicy Yawn said:


> My trick is this:
> first, I lower the first arm - doesn't matter front or back first.
> then, I take one hand to lift the lever to release the second arm, and use my other hand to hold the bike by the frame to move the bike in the direction of opening the second arm. Not touching the arm at this point; one hand on the lever, one hand on the bike.
> As I move the bike in that direction the tire on that end stays inside the arm which resists the side to side toppling action, I've also got my hand on the bike anyway but it helps.
> Once the arm is fully open the lever hand frees up so I can get the other end of the bike then back that last tire out of the arm and take off the bike.





shoal said:


> It just takes some practice. You don't have to open the second arm very far, just far enough to have it release and then you let the bike roll to the other arm which is opened enough and then lift your bike out. I love my rack, and everytime I go for a ride someone asks about it.


Thanks I suppose I need to practice on how to remove the bike on a less windy day. I like the idea of pushing the bike to open the pivot and I will try that. One thing my front pivot is a whole lot tighter to release than the back one and I haven't figured out if it is the rail that is binding or it's at the point of pivot rotation.



racerwad said:


> Try these for security: Barrinut Lock Systems
> 
> As others have said, the key is practice. Having it as a hitch mount also makes it a lot easier


Good product but they seem to be in AU and it's been a couple years since I've been to Melbourne.  Would a typical Home Depot or Lowe's have something like these bolts or do I need to find a specialized hardware supplier?


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Barrinuts are metric so you'll have to convert the bolts on your 1up since it's standard thread. Barrinuts in limited sizes are available from -- EE -- Expedition Exchange Incorporated. I'm sure that they could be able to order them for you.

These guys might be easier for you: Security Nuts - Tanner Bolt & Nut Corp.

Google "tamper proof nuts"


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## krazy_rider (Aug 25, 2011)

I just got my 1up roof tray today. The problem i have is that the rear arms starts to move further back after driving(30 mins on highway and about 10 mins on local bumpy road). As the arm move further back together with the bike, it open up a gap between front tired and the front arm. Anyone have this problem?.


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## shoal (Apr 26, 2012)

Is that with the bike in it? I cannot imagine it coming loose. I have used mine least 15 times without the the thing loosening.you may have a defective unit .


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## krazy_rider (Aug 25, 2011)

shoal said:


> Is that with the bike in it? I cannot imagine it coming loose. I have used mine least 15 times without the the thing loosening.you may have a defective unit .


Yes, that is with the bike on. I tried it 2 times already and both time the rear arm move about few inch(looks like back from it's original position along with the bike. My bike weights about 29lb. I will take some photo of before and after and send to 1up. If i tried pull the arm back with my arm, it doesn't move. But not with bumpy road + wind.


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## shoal (Apr 26, 2012)

Wow
2 inches is a lot. I could see the bike coming out . I wonder if there is something wrong with the spring in the lever. I would call them and ill keep an eye on mine. I've driven 30 mins at 75mph without noticing a ny issues with 2 separate trays.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

It sounds like either a busted unit or operator error. If everything is working on the rack correctly, pulling on the main arm which secures the bike should only force the locking lever tighter. Hopefully you'll be able to get it sorted out. I've always had great experiences with 1up's service.


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## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

I don't want to sound like I'm complaining about the rack again but I've been getting quite a bit of vibrational noise when no bike is in the tray. I've tried readjusting my Thule feet connections, the connection between the tray and bars, even driving with the two pivots slightly up so that the plastic tabs are not contacting the tray. This vibrational noise reverbs through my roof and is slightly annoying. Is this just the nature of this rack and all the pivots and play in the parts?

I suppose if this was used as a hitch rack one wouldn't be able to hear these noises.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Even as a hitch rack there is some noise. The nice thing is when it's folded up, it get a lot quieter. Sounds like you get the worst of both worlds, sorry.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Weird..*



thatdrewguy said:


> I don't want to sound like I'm complaining about the rack again but I've been getting quite a bit of vibrational noise when no bike is in the tray. I've tried readjusting my Thule feet connections, the connection between the tray and bars, even driving with the two pivots slightly up so that the plastic tabs are not contacting the tray. This vibrational noise reverbs through my roof and is slightly annoying. Is this just the nature of this rack and all the pivots and play in the parts?
> 
> I suppose if this was used as a hitch rack one wouldn't be able to hear these noises.


Resonates... like, the rack is humming or buzzing in the wind? Does it have those little rubberized silicone plastic clip thingies on the vertical wheel holder parts? My 1Up has those right where it would touch another part when folded down to keep the parts from rattling against each other.


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## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

pimpbot said:


> Resonates... like, the rack is humming or buzzing in the wind? Does it have those little rubberized silicone plastic clip thingies on the vertical wheel holder parts? My 1Up has those right where it would touch another part when folded down to keep the parts from rattling against each other.


I would call it vibrational noise, happens in town starting at about 25 mph. It does have the clips which I referred to as plastic tabs and I tried both using them and pivoting the arms out so that there was no contact with the clips.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

It makes noise when it's empty, right? Mine does, too. Like you mentioned, it's less noticeable as a hitch rack and even less so when it's folded vertically (which you obviously can't do on the roof).


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I guess I should've asked this sooner because if it is making noise with a bike in, then I'd check all of the numerous bolts on that thing. Mine lost a bolt on a fire road and I ignored it for a while.


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## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

thatdrewguy said:


> <> I've been getting quite a bit of vibrational noise when no bike is in the tray.





racerwad said:


> It makes noise when it's empty, right? Mine does, too. Like you mentioned, it's less noticeable as a hitch rack and even less so when it's folded vertically (which you obviously can't do on the roof).


Only notice the noise/vibration when empty. I may try using bits of foam or packing material between the rails to figure out which ones are making the noise and pad those in the future.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Yeah, unfortunately, that's what the rack does. Sorry. Good luck making the rack quieter.


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## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

If I can't isolate the noise no biggie I'm sure I'll get use to it. It's sort of like with roof racks I no longer open the sunroof on the freeway as there's way too much racket going on...


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## shoal (Apr 26, 2012)

Ya with a sunroof you're going to hear noise, no matter the rack. You can try to minimize it withe padding etc.


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## krazy_rider (Aug 25, 2011)

racerwad said:


> It sounds like either a busted unit or operator error. If everything is working on the rack correctly, pulling on the main arm which secures the bike should only force the locking lever tighter. Hopefully you'll be able to get it sorted out. I've always had great experiences with 1up's service.


Tried it today again and this time I added an extra rope(orange) so if the rear does swing back, the front will be pull back. This way i won't lose my bike in the highway. As shown in the picture, the rear swing back a lot with the bike. It was originally centered in the middle of the tray. I should have waited for the replacement parts but I really wanted to go ride today.

Called 1Up(few days ago), they sending me replacement parts to fix this problem. They have very good customer service. I will be receiving the parts next week and hope it will fix the problem.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

The arms should be approximately the same angle from horizontal at either end. Just looking at your rear arm, you basically have it all the way open. Is this how you normally run it? I don't know how your orange rope is going to help anything, either, because the arms don't resist closing at all. Instead, if you're worried about it, I would 1) setup the arms so that they are closer to vertical 2) Tie the rope to the cross bar. That way, you'll be sure that if something happens, the component the rope is attached to won't move.


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## krazy_rider (Aug 25, 2011)

racerwad said:


> The arms should be approximately the same angle from horizontal at either end. Just looking at your rear arm, you basically have it all the way open. Is this how you normally run it? I don't know how your orange rope is going to help anything, either, because the arms don't resist closing at all. Instead, if you're worried about it, I would 1) setup the arms so that they are closer to vertical 2) Tie the rope to the cross bar. That way, you'll be sure that if something happens, the component the rope is attached to won't move.


This wasn't how it was before driving. It was setup that both arm are at same angle as you said. The rope was added so if the rear arm move back with the bike, the front wheel would pull the front arm with it


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

krazy_rider said:


> This wasn't how it was before driving. It was setup that both arm are at same angle as you said. The rope was added so if the rear arm move back with the bike, the front wheel would pull the front arm with it


I kind of understand what you're trying to do here but don't you see that the forward arm will always close without resistance? Using it as one anchor point for your rope will never work. If anything, you should run a rope from the rear arm to the forward-most crossbar. Then, if the rear arm moves, the rope will be secured to a fixed point. Obviously, the arms should never open up, but in the event that they do, why secure one moving part to another?


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## krazy_rider (Aug 25, 2011)

racerwad said:


> I kind of understand what you're trying to do here but don't you see that the forward arm will always close without resistance? Using it as one anchor point for your rope will never work. If anything, you should run a rope from the rear arm to the forward-most crossbar. Then, if the rear arm moves, the rope will be secured to a fixed point. Obviously, the arms should never open up, but in the event that they do, why secure one moving part to another?


That is a good point. I did try that but the rope touches the rear derailleur and rub against it. If I move the tray to driver side, it will be no problem as the rope will not be in the drive chain side. However, i wanted it in passenger side in case I have to fix it on highway shoulder(i did that already). I'm thinking about installing a clamp on the silver crossbar(the one where the 2 pin slides on and grab) so it will act as a limiter for the rear arm. Eg. i can put it in the position where it can never get bigger than 90 degree.

1Up already sent out the replacement parts and I hope that will fix the problem. I should be getting it on Monday and will post it if that fix the problem.


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## hermesnt (May 16, 2012)

thatdrewguy said:


> I would call it vibrational noise, happens in town starting at about 25 mph. It does have the clips which I referred to as plastic tabs and I tried both using them and pivoting the arms out so that there was no contact with the clips.


I heard a similar noise when I first put mine on. Try lifting the arms up just a tiny bit and the noise should stop. The arms were contacting the outbound support for the track where the red handle slides along. I'm sure there is a better explanation for the part. I'm going to add a bit of electrical tape to that area to stop the metal on metal contact.

Hope that works for you.


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## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

I decided to wax the car and roof and thought it best to remove all the bike carrier parts. When I reassembled the crossbars and my 3 bike carriers (2 thule fork mounts, 1 1up) the noise was gone. 

My only issue with the 1up now is that one of the red levers is kind of finicky. It will only release and allow the pivot to open in one rotational spot, if I lift the red lever higher than the sweet spot the pivot binds and won't open up anymore. Slightly annoying but maybe that's my built in theft deterrent since I doubt anyone trying to swipe my bike would know how to operate that red lever properly. :thumbsup:


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## krazy_rider (Aug 25, 2011)

krazy_rider said:


> Tried it today again and this time I added an extra rope(orange) so if the rear does swing back, the front will be pull back. This way i won't lose my bike in the highway. As shown in the picture, the rear swing back a lot with the bike. It was originally centered in the middle of the tray. I should have waited for the replacement parts but I really wanted to go ride today.
> 
> Called 1Up(few days ago), they sending me replacement parts to fix this problem. They have very good customer service. I will be receiving the parts next week and hope it will fix the problem.


I received the replace parts and tested it few times. That seem to fixed the problem.


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## shoal (Apr 26, 2012)

krazy_rider said:


> I received the replace parts and tested it few times. That seem to fixed the problem.


I'm glad to hear that the replacement parts fixed your problem. I was hoping it was defective parts and not a design issue so I didnt have to worry about my steads riding ontop of my car.

thanks! 
:thumbsup:


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