# L333 - a long waited upgrade



## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

A few months passed since the first L332 were released, now I have quite a few feedbacks based on which I'm going to enhance its functions. The next one receives L333 index. The first prototype is already tested, so what's new here:









*Preflash Issue Resolved*

It's applicable only to MC version with a microcontroller integrated and described in all details on CPF forums. In two words - the L332MC admitted a short, about 10 ms, flash in a moment when mode is changed from high to low. It looked annoying for some and of course we had no other choice than to sort it out as soon as we could.

*Reverse Polarity Protection*

Even though we warned everyone that L332 is might be broken when polarity reversed, some admitted this mistake and burned their engines out. We learned this lesson and decided to include the reverse polarity protection in the new version. The solution is simple thus very efficient. Of course we didn't use a Schottky in the power line as couldn't accept 0.5V voltage drop and nearly 10% power loss. An ultra-low on-resistance N-channel MOSFET was used instead. The first prototype is shown on the photo. For better efficiency in production we'll drive the gate from higher voltage generated by the boost regulator. This way we'll keep the protection circuit losses within 1% which seems quite acceptable for not thinking about the polarity any more. For those who are keen in "all-possible-ways" performance maximizing we'll offer a non-protected short-cut at the same price.

*Software Stand-By Mode*

This new feature lets the module to stay always connected to the power supply. The engine can be fully operated by a cheap low-current click-button which provides more robust, power and cost efficient design. In stand-by mode the engine consumes very low current which is significantly less than the battery self-discharge and measured in fractions of a microampere. The on-off function is managed by the software in which any logic can be implemented easily.

*Master-Slave Interface*

The master-slave pin makes possible boards cascading for very high-output multi-engine setups. All boards are kept in-sync by means of just one wire which links all into the network.

*Input-Voltage Monitor*

In L333 the microcontroller receives the feedback from battery. The software will manage the battery health tracking and mode-change controlled by power interrupts.

Also I plan to reserve SPI pads on board for in-circuit programming in house. The preliminary idea is - on my site you can "adjust" the main parameters such as number of levels, the defaults and cutoffs and then upload a binary file generated on-fly which you upload to MCU using standard programming tools/adapters.

what do you think?


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## JezV (Oct 31, 2009)

Sounds fantastic to me. Reverse polarity protection, in particular, is essential to anyone mixing Lumicycle and non-Lumi components. The programming idea sounds nice but personally beyond my electronic ability. And anything that makes switching simpler must be good. Will pricing be similar to L332?


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

Great stuff Q! They just keep getting better and better.


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## jmitchell13 (Nov 20, 2005)

Reverse polarity and standby are much needed and welcomed upgrades. Nice work!
I wish I had waited for the L333 instead of jumping on the L332 when it first came out.

The lack of standby mode is my biggest complaint with the L332.

Any chance on getting an upgrade?!


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

Quazzle you ar my hero!! 
Nice update on the L33 Module! :thumbsup: Keep on working!

btw: I'm waiting for something new coming along that works with my existing 14.4V battery lineup!! :eekster:


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## matthewm (Mar 29, 2009)

Sorry to hijack your thread but, I have just updated the latest generation of my housing to support quazzle's modules!

I have a pre-order list available here

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=3251130&postcount=1


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Quazzle, do you have a realistic ETA on when you will have saleable quantities on the L333?

These are the upgrades my mate has been waiting for


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

emu26 said:


> Quazzle, do you have a realistic ETA on when you will have saleable quantities on the L333?


end of Sep - hardware part. Software modification won't take too long but I still have no idea how to utilize the stand-by option using single MOM button. Single click toggles the light between 100% and adjustable ECO mode. It's useful when you need to switch prompty to the full and back on a track.

The only idea I have now is to "stand-by" by press-and-hold for let's say 2 sec. But I'm not quite sure that it would be an easy to grasp for a guy who never reads manuals. He is going to be quite upset being not able to switch the light off. 

As for the price, it's the same

As for in-house upgradeablity from 332, sorry guys but it's nearly impossible as I had to re-trace the board. It's another topology.


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

quazzle said:


> The only idea I have to stand-by by press-and-hold for let's say 2 sec. But I'm not quite sure that it's easy to do for a guy who never reads manuals. He is going to be quite upset being not able to switch the light off.


No problems with this one - most of the light are switched off by the press and hold function! :thumbsup:


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

matthewm said:


> I have a pre-order list available here
> 
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=3251130&postcount=1


really slick goodies Mat, I'd even order some...just two concerns. They're designed to be used with carclo boards and maxflex, right?

1. There would be unused (i.e. wasted) room inside if L332/L333 installed (as L333 already comes with programmable regulator). The L333 version would be much more compact. I know a lot of guys here which are anxiuos to order more comopact bodies machined for L333

2. Althogh both boards are the same size/optic, the cutter have wire hole on the center while L333 on the side. Would it be a problem?


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

press and hold is good for turn off.

Thanks for the update


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## bravellir (Nov 24, 2008)

Press and hold is "natural" but I always find hard to hold the button for 2 secs while riding. 
What about fast double press to turn off?? bad idea?


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

Why would you turn off the light while riding?  
Can you see at night? :nono:


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## matthewm (Mar 29, 2009)

quazzle said:


> really slick goodies Mat, I'd even order some...just two concerns. They're designed to be used with carclo boards and maxflex, right?
> 
> 1. There would be unused (i.e. wasted) room inside if L332/L333 installed (as L333 already comes with programmable regulator). The L333 version would be much more compact. I know a lot of guys here which are anxiuos to order more comopact bodies machined for L333
> 
> 2. Althogh both boards are the same size/optic, the cutter have wire hole on the center while L333 on the side. Would it be a problem?


1. Unused space, yes; But not wasted, as the case needs the extra physical mass to have a large enough finned surface area to support both drivers

I also have another specialized case in the works that will only utilize your driver/LED board, but for the moment I wanted to offer something that fits both solutions.

2. The modified design includes a channel from the center to the edge for the wires. So it can accommodate both configurations.


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## BKruahnndon (Jul 17, 2009)

any thoughts on making a slightly larger board as well? I'd love to use the L332/L333 but lack of good optics just won't let me pull the trigger.


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## jmitchell13 (Nov 20, 2005)

quazzle said:


> The only idea I have now is to "stand-by" by press-and-hold for let's say 2 sec. But I'm not quite sure that it would be an easy to grasp for a guy who never reads manuals. He is going to be quite upset being not able to switch the light off.


Press and hold for 2 sec is perfect. It's similar to how the taskled drivers function and it works very well for me.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

BKruahnndon said:


> any thoughts on making a slightly larger board as well? I'd love to use the L332/L333 but lack of good optics just won't let me pull the trigger.


wide is not always bad as like as narrow throw is not always good. Different applications require different spills. Yes, L34 comes next (OD=25.4mm). I also plan to deliver L32 designed for reflecting optic thus providing more throw



matthewm said:


> 2. The modified design includes a channel from the center to the edge for the wires. So it can accommodate both configurations.


thank you, that should work fine! 
Also I appriciate your plans to deliver a dedicated housing for all-in-one 20mm engines. 
Cutter also claimed plans to deliver a similar product so your customers will have at leat two different engines to choose from.


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## sodium (Jul 2, 2010)

I don't understand this business about being able to stay connected to the power. I just turn off the switch to mine, and that seems pretty disconnected to me. Am I missing something? I run both switches so I can access all the controls.

And the input voltage monitor - yes it monitors but what does it do with the information? Sounds like a good idea. 

How about making boards that are shaped like long, narrow strips? Could be good for those who want 10 in a row on the bars!


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## langen (May 21, 2005)

quazzle said:


> I also plan to deliver L32 designed for reflecting optic thus providing more throw


Interesting! Details on which optic(s) you plan to design it to?

I wish Ledil would make a one-piece 3-in-1 Regina, something along the lines of the Niterider Trinewt reflector maybe..? 
3 separate Reginas would be a little bit too big I think.


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

That would be two switches for those who want the extra control/features available via the momentary switch:
1) Momentary control & 
2) Single pole double throw (SPDT) power switch.

Given the small size one switch doing it all is the goal & hopefully the best solution.


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## jmitchell13 (Nov 20, 2005)

Mark2c said:


> That would be two switches for those who want the extra control/features available via the momentary switch:
> 1) Momentary control &
> 2) Single pole double throw (SPDT) power switch.
> 
> *Given the small size one switch doing it all is the goal & hopefully the best solution*.


+1:thumbsup:


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Whitedog1 said:


> Why would you turn off the light while riding?
> Can you see at night? :nono:


Whitedog, your question deserved an answer...so...Depending on how you use the light...
If using a helmet AND bar lamp...You decide to turn the helmet lamp off on a slow climb, sometimes a couple seconds can seem like an eternity when one hand is on your head. The B-blex's are worse, with those you have to press and hold to go to a lower light level as well. Sometimes takes about 3 sec...a total PITA. This is one of the reasons I really like torches. Instant on/off regardless of mode. IMO, more lights should offer a duel-switch feature. The new up-grades to the Quazzle L333 sounds good...Even better if he figures out how to make one that will work with narrow-throw reflectors. :thumbsup:


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Cat-man-do said:


> The B-blex's are worse, with those you have to press and hold to go to a lower light level as well. Sometimes takes about 3 sec...a total PITA. This is one of the reasons I really like torches.


Not true, certainly not for either of the maxflex I have used or the numerous bflex drivers I currently use or have built lights around. The hold is to turn it on or off, momentary press is to change power levels.

I too thought why would you be turning your light off while riding, but what you have described running in combo with a bar light makes perfect sense.


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

Thanks Cat-man-do, i haven't thougt of running a dual setup!
In this case it can work to only switch to low mode instead of turning it completely off??


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

thanks guys for your involvement, I'll reserve a "shorter" press-and-hold for stand-by. So the press-and-hold logic will work this way: after 1.5 sec the light is switched off but if you keep holding the button after 5 sec it goes to ECO adjustment or strobe modes depending on the active mode. 

I'll also consider to incorporate a double-click for standby which will work in parallel with the press-and-hold


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

Q, sounds good.

Cat-Man, that could be a good arguement. However, for me turning a light down to low is the better option when riding uphill as some light is better than none (shadows/depth perception etc). The battery consumption is neligable when the light is operated at about 3 Watts or less.

Naturally YMMV & the option is always there to add the second power switch if desired.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

emu26 said:


> Not true, certainly not for either of the maxflex I have used or the numerous bflex drivers I currently use or have built lights around. The hold is to turn it on or off, momentary press is to change power levels.
> 
> I too thought why would you be turning your light off while riding, but what you have described running in combo with a bar light makes perfect sense.


The helmet light I have uses a 3 mode b-flex. Momentary press makes the light brighter, no problems there. To turn off or dim the light you have to press and *hold*. The delay with this lamp is not too bad. My other ( bar ) light uses a 5 or two mode menu. On 5-mode the delays on dimming were too much to deal with. On 2-mode changes are immediate. Still, if I want to turn the light off I have to press/hold for 3 sec. No big problem until I start riding the road. This lamp is too bright for road use so I have to turn it off if a vehicle is on-coming. With the 3 sec delay I have to power down WAY before the car reaches me...total PITA. Thankfully, the bar lamp uses a remote switch mounted close to my thumb which helps. I use a P-7 torch on low for road duties when traffic is present.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

Cat-man-do said:


> The helmet light I have uses a 3 mode b-flex. .... My other ( bar ) light uses a 5 or two mode menu. On 5-mode the delays on dimming were too much to deal with. On 2-mode changes are immediate. Still, if I want to turn the light off I have to press/hold for 3 sec. ... With the 3 sec delay I have to power down WAY before the car reaches me...total PITA. Thankfully, the bar lamp uses a remote switch mounted close to my thumb which helps. I use a P-7 torch on low for road duties when traffic is present.


My workaround, too.

I have Trailtech connectors and use the extension with the switch. High/Low is fast on the light, off is a click on the harness. You click and hold off on the light and then repeat click and hold to go to flashing mode. Too bad a repeat of that wouldn't let you switch to a different progrmmable high/low like Medium and Very Low for road use. Then leaving the trail you switch to the road Hi/Lo or when you get to the trail you switch to the trail Hi/Lo. An line switch could still shut it down fast.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Ah, I was unaware of that. I tend to only ever set mine up as two mode so have never encountered that problem.

I generally dip my helmet light, physically that is and not just output, so that it points down towards my front wheel when I'm on the road. The spill light from this along with the bar light still gives enough illumination that I can see far enough down the road without blinding on coming traffic


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## bravellir (Nov 24, 2008)

Cat-man-do said:


> Whitedog, your question deserved an answer...so...Depending on how you use the light...
> If using a helmet AND bar lamp...You decide to turn the helmet lamp off on a slow climb, sometimes a couple seconds can seem like an eternity when one hand is on your head. The B-blex's are worse, with those you have to press and hold to go to a lower light level as well. Sometimes takes about 3 sec...a total PITA. This is one of the reasons I really like torches. Instant on/off regardless of mode. IMO, more lights should offer a duel-switch feature. The new up-grades to the Quazzle L333 sounds good...Even better if he figures out how to make one that will work with narrow-throw reflectors. :thumbsup:


Exactly. I use a dual setup. Bars and helmet. My night rides are a mix of urban and off road and I tend to use the bar light only when at the most dark and technical sections.

Also, we do stop occasionally on the trail and when we do it would always be a strange image to see 8 guys stopping, looking at the sky for 2 or 3 seconds to turn the headlamps off and only then look at each other  kind a "welcome the aliens" thing 
But 2 seconds or whatever solution quazzle choose that's not a problem for me at least. I would always use a inline switch to cut off power , just because its much more convenient and natural to reach my chest or shoulder that to reach the top off my helmet .. its ok.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

quazzle said:


> end of Sep - hardware part. Software modification won't take too long but I still have no idea how to utilize the stand-by option using single MOM button. Single click toggles the light between 100% and adjustable ECO mode. It's useful when you need to switch prompty to the full and back on a track.
> 
> The only idea I have now is to "stand-by" by press-and-hold for let's say 2 sec. But I'm not quite sure that it would be an easy to grasp for a guy who never reads manuals. He is going to be quite upset being not able to switch the light off.


Are you describing 100%->Eco -> Standby modes on a one switch system?

Or is it still a 2-switch system for 100%->Eco on one switch and High-med-low-off on the second?


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## matthewm (Mar 29, 2009)

I have officially opened up the pre-pay list! (get in fast! I still have some discount spots available)

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=3251130&postcount=1


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## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Dadgum, Matt! I'm really, really tempted right now. So to the US..we're looking at $123.10? (plus 3.9% + how much AUD?)


$123.10 + 4.80 + 0.30AUD (what is this anyways?...is it another 30%? or is it 30 cents AUD?)


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## matthewm (Mar 29, 2009)

chelboed said:


> Dadgum, Matt! I'm really, really tempted right now. So to the US..we're looking at $123.10? (plus 3.9% + how much AUD?)


Yeah, $122.60 delivered to USA (A little more if you want insured mail)

Hopefully I've answered all questions in my post one on my thread.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Can i wire two of the L332 boards up to the same battery pack? say a 7.4volt 5ah pack?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

sure you can. As long as your battery can provide the current for both.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> sure you can. As long as your battery can provide the current for both.


Any recommendations on batteries?

Will 4 18650's do it do you think? wired so its 2s1p?


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

Hey quazzle! 
Any updates on your bigger modules?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Very nice looking double-triple host! Tempting...very tempting. :ihih:


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Finally DONE!










*Brief Summary of new features*
- Preflash Issue Fixed
- Reverse Polarity Protection
- Stand-By Mode which is activated by momentary button
- Master-Slave Interface for multi-board setups
- Input-Voltage Monitor
- Programmable temperature monitor
- In-System Programming Interface
- Small color indicator installed on board
- Improved conversion efficiency (new SBR catch diode instead of Schotkey)
- Improved heat conductivity (new board material, more thermally efficient board design)


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

When will they be available to order?


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## Itess (Feb 22, 2009)

quazzle said:


> Finally DONE!


Great! But how can I buy such a module? There's nothing like this on your site yet.


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

Wow, this is a very feature packed little board! Great job!

When will this new L333 be available? 

Also, looking forward to an explanation of the new features, how they work and if there is any additional hardware needed. For instance, the In-System programming interface pads on the PCB need to be soldered to something, what would that be? Do I need a special switch? The Master-Slave interface must have some requirements / limits, what are they? How many boards can be chained off this one? Series or parallel? 

With the addition of the Master-Slave interface, you've opened up a need for other boards to be paired with the L333. Have you considered offering Lux-Rc boards without the integrated controller to go along with this new L333 design? Can you run a second Lux-Rc board that has an integrated controller off this board? It would not be cost effective but I'm thinking about people that might already have a Lux-Rc product and want to run it with the new L333 in slave mode.

What does the embedded color indicator LED chip do?

How does the input voltage monitor work and how is it connected? 

Nice quality components. Terrific design. Extremely well thought out.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

kwarwick said:


> When will they be available to order?


 I plan to release the first batch with green mask tonight. The qty is very limited (40pcs total).


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## fujio001 (Nov 2, 2007)

I cannot wait until the L333 is placed in a cool Quazzle housing!


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

ThinkBike said:


> Wow, this is a very feature packed little board! Great job!


thanks  I hope my efforts were not in vain.



ThinkBike said:


> ...the In-System programming interface pads on the PCB need to be soldered to something, what would that be? Do I need a special switch?


you'll need an adaptor to hook up to the board. I plan to release it in next 2-3 weeks. The main point here is the new board is upgradeable. If you're familiar with PIC programming you can try to write your own code for it. I'll expain which ports used and how.



ThinkBike said:


> The Master-Slave interface must have some requirements / limits, what are they? How many boards can be chained off this one? Series or parallel?


it's simple. All boards should be connected in parallel (common ground). M/S bus (wire) should go though the single master and all slaves (connecting all M/S posts together). I'll explain it in the datasheet a bit later.



ThinkBike said:


> With the addition of the Master-Slave interface, you've opened up a need for other boards to be paired with the L333. Have you considered offering Lux-Rc boards without the integrated controller to go along with this new L333 design?


The L333 will be available in major 4 configurations (the cheapest comes first):
SM - Single mode (no MCU, always on). 
SL - Slave. Switched off (ultra-low current stand-by) when not connected to master or external PWM)
MC - Master. Includes all features except input voltage monitoring
MC+ - Master with a predefined low-voltage threshold & logic



ThinkBike said:


> It would not be cost effective but I'm thinking about people that might already have a Lux-Rc product and want to run it with the new L333 in slave mode.


the old boards can be converted to slaves but with no stand-by. They still need the power switch. The new boards may stay always connected to battery.



ThinkBike said:


> What does the embedded color indicator LED chip do?


it's software dependent. Now it's blinking just before the first run after the hard reset and ON when the board is operating (visible between flashes in SOS pattern for example). I didn't decided yet how to employ it. Probably it should also rearly flash when the light is in stand-by indicating that the battery is OK (let's say >30%)



ThinkBike said:


> How does the input voltage monitor work and how is it connected?


it's a part of MC+ configuration, no need to connect it. It tracks the input voltage (the battery voltage) and automatically reduces the output when the battery runs low. It also protects the lithium from overdischarge.


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

quazzle said:


> I plan to release the first batch with green mask tonight. The qty is very limited (40pcs total).


Will these be released on the website or by invitation only and will these initial 40 pcs be SM version only or will be able to get an MC and an SL?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

BlownCivic said:


> Will these be released on the website or by invitation only and will these initial 40 pcs be SM version only or will be able to get an MC and an SL?


all 3 configurations are available and tested:









This pic shows a dual-board configuration with master-slave link


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Not showing up on your website. How do we order them?


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## wojtekkrakow (Jan 19, 2010)

3 versions available? 

What about MC+ with a predefined low-voltage threshold & logic?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

wojtekkrakow said:


> 3 versions available?
> What about MC+ with a predefined low-voltage threshold & logic?


Sorry, not now.
I'll take a week or two to write firmware for it.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

kwarwick said:


> Not showing up on your website. How do we order them?


should work now.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

quazzle said:


> should work now.


Excellent, order placed!


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

Here's what I ordered Quazzle:

L333-MC-C-BETAQuantity : 1 
L333-SL-C-BETAQuantity : 1
20mm Frosted Narrow Triple Lens (20deg. FWHM) for L33 Light
20mm Clear Narrow Triple Lens (16deg. FWHM) for L33 Light.

Does this seem like a good combination for max light (about 2,200 lumens) using one of matthewm's housings? I'll be running it with 2,900mAh 2 cell and 5,800mAh 4 cell 7.4v packs. What else will I need? Switch, cabling, handlebar mount, etc...

Thanks,

Jacques


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## matthewm (Mar 29, 2009)

BlownCivic said:


> Here's what I ordered Quazzle:
> 
> L333-MC-C-BETAQuantity : 1
> L333-SL-C-BETAQuantity : 1
> ...


Huge image!

The housing has a momentary switch built in, that will control both modules in a master/slave configuration. I have been using the tight optics for both sides as the XP-G is already quite floody. The housing makes it very easy to change the optic so you can always change it later


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

Thanks Matthew. I'm going to go with the mixed optics for now. See how it goes. Other than the housing and handlebar mount, will I be good to go with this setup? I think I have everything else I need as far as wire, connectors, etc...

So this will likely draw about 2,200 mAh from my 7.4v LiPo battery? I'm trying to decide what awg wire I'll need to use.


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## jmitchell13 (Nov 20, 2005)

quazzle said:


> all 3 configurations are available and tested:


Awesome! I want some, but I'll wait for the ones with low-voltage monitoring.

Now what to do with the two L332's I already have?


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## jbflyfshr (Jul 24, 2006)

sell them cheap to me!


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

jmitchell13 said:


> Awesome! I want some, but I'll wait for the ones with low-voltage monitoring.
> Now what to do with the two L332's I already have?


sure, I'll try to deliver it in 2010, but no promises  All I can say here is I'll do my best 

As for L332's - they can be traded or left (still functional) or converted to slaves with some precision soldering


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> sure, I'll try to deliver it in 2010, but no promises  All I can say here is I'll do my best
> 
> As for L332's - they can be traded or left (still functional) or converted to slaves with some precision soldering


Which bits need soldering?


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## jmitchell13 (Nov 20, 2005)

quazzle said:


> sure, I'll try to deliver it in 2010, but no promises  All I can say here is I'll do my best
> 
> As for L332's - they can be traded or left (still functional) or converted to slaves with some precision soldering


No worries, I'm in no rush. I learned to be patient from the L332 development.

Traded huh? So I could trade them up for an L333 through you? If that's the case, I'd definitely be interested.

Converting to slaves would be interesting too. Please provide details!


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

jmitchell13 said:


> Awesome! I want some, but I'll wait for the ones with low-voltage monitoring.
> 
> Now what to do with the two L332's I already have?


You could send me one just for giggles.


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

Quazzle,

Will the orders that were placed on Thursday be shipped before you go away on the 24th?

Thanks,

Jacques


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

sure, all orders which are placed already will be shipped before the leave


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Quazzle, I just realized that the light engine I ordered doesn't have the voltage monitoring feature which is something I'd definitely like to have... I guess that's a "+" version? Will there be a way of upgrading these BETA modules through software or is it a hardware feature they lack?


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

matthewm said:


> 1. Unused space, yes; But not wasted, as the case needs the extra physical mass to have a large enough finned surface area to support both drivers
> 
> I also have another specialized case in the works that will only utilize your driver/LED board, but for the moment I wanted to offer something that fits both solutions.
> 
> 2. The modified design includes a channel from the center to the edge for the wires. So it can accommodate both configurations.


I'm eventually going to put two of Quazzle's L333's in your housing. Is it possible to put just one L333 and leave the other side empty? Would the lens for the empty side fit properly (waterproof) without a LED star or L333 to push against?


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## matthewm (Mar 29, 2009)

ThinkBike said:


> I'm eventually going to put two of Quazzle's L333's in your housing. Is it possible to put just one L333 and leave the other side empty? Would the lens for the empty side fit properly (waterproof) without a LED star or L333 to push against?


That will be perfectly fine, the glass is supported on both sides by two o-rings


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

kwarwick said:


> Quazzle, I just realized that the light engine I ordered doesn't have the voltage monitoring feature which is something I'd definitely like to have... I guess that's a "+" version? Will there be a way of upgrading these BETA modules through software or is it a hardware feature they lack?


I'm sorry but the voltage monitoring needs a hardware updgrade. Please provide me your # by email if you wish to cancel it.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I'm really enjoying my little 3- XP-E L332-based headlamp for off-road commuting.
The single board with drivers and LEDs makes for a tiny and simple build, and with a little 2000mah battery the whole thing lives on my helmet, or sometimes moves to my running headband. 
The tight beam is great for a helmet mount- I often run it on medium (20%) for commuting.

I'm surprised there aren't more folks doing single L332 /333 builds with these. It seems so much simpler than trying to mount up 3 LEDs and heat sink a driver. All it needs is a fairly simple cylindrical- type housing, instead of complicated boxes.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Ofroad'bent said:


> I'm really enjoying my little 3- XP-E L332-based headlamp for off-road commuting.
> The single board with drivers and LEDs makes for a tiny and simple build, and with a little 2000mah battery the whole thing lives on my helmet, or sometimes moves to my running headband.
> The tight beam is great for a helmet mount- I often run it on medium (20%) for commuting.
> 
> I'm surprised there aren't more folks doing single L332 /333 builds with these. It seems so much simpler than trying to mount up 3 LEDs and heat sink a driver. All it needs is a fairly simple cylindrical- type housing, instead of complicated boxes.


Watch this space, I have two L332's in my box to use..


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Ofroad'bent said:


> I'm surprised there aren't more folks doing single L332 /333 builds with these. It seems so much simpler than trying to mount up 3 LEDs and heat sink a driver. All it needs is a fairly simple cylindrical- type housing, instead of complicated boxes.


IMO you give up too much in beam quality with the current optics for the 20mm triples. That's what has kept me from doing one. I would like an integrated driver triple to fit the MR11 size CUTE-SS optic. That's what I would build around. I am also looking forward to Cutter releasing their integrated single to fit the Regina reflector.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Vancbiker said:


> IMO you give up too much in beam quality with the current optics for the 20mm triples. That's what has kept me from doing one. I would like an integrated driver triple to fit the MR11 size CUTE-SS optic. That's what I would build around. I am also looking forward to Cutter releasing their integrated single to fit the Regina reflector.


Nothing wrong with the beam I'm getting with the XP-Es. Nice tight round beam- probably tighter than the Regina and XP-G. Certainly better than my iBlaast II beam.
See here post #9- 11

I didn't go for the triple XP-Gs with the 20mm optic because of the more diffuse beam.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Vancbiker said:


> IMO you give up too much in beam quality with the current optics for the 20mm triples. That's what has kept me from doing one. I would like an integrated driver triple to fit the MR11 size CUTE-SS optic. That's what I would build around. I am also looking forward to Cutter releasing their integrated single to fit the Regina reflector.


Thas why you need to use at least two tripples..


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## matthewm (Mar 29, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> Thas why you need to use at least two tripples..




http://classifieds.mtbr.com/showproduct.php?product=56941&cat=27


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Yes, very nice, but I was wondering about a single triple, potentially a lot smaller.

Here's that beamshot link again, comparing the XP-E, XPG triple and XPG/Regina.

See here post #9- 11


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Nothing wrong with the beam I'm getting with the XP-Es. Nice tight round beam- probably tighter than the Regina and XP-G.
> I didn't go for the triple XP-Gs with the 20mm optic because of the more diffuse beam.


Yes, I agree that it would be better to go with XP-Es for the 20mm optic. I do believe that a dual Regina with XP-Gs will out throw a triple with XP-Es by a fair bit. In the beamshot thread you referenced, the shots in post 10 show that pretty well. Notice that the shed door details are more washed out with the Regina. That means more light delivered to that area.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Vancbiker said:


> Yes, I agree that it would be better to go with XP-Es for the 20mm optic. I do believe that a dual Regina with XP-Gs will out throw a triple with XP-Es by a fair bit. In the beamshot thread you referenced, the shots in post 10 show that pretty well. Notice that the shed door details are more washed out with the Regina. That means more light delivered to that area.


To me it looked like the XP-E had more light in the hotspot. It looks like Chelboed came to the same conclusion. He mentioned to me that his next light is another XP-E triple, not a double Regina as he prefers the beam. Without having both in front of me I can't make the call.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Hi guys, just returned from the vacation, got a lot of plans and enegry!



Goldigger said:


> Which bits need soldering?


First, you should gently remove the microcontroller, the 6-pin chip marked as U3. I recommend to remove it with small cutting pliers. Next, you'll have to solder a wire to the pad #4, see the pins layout here -> https://www.avrfreaks.net/modules/PNphpBB2/files/pic10f2xx_pinout_icsp_144.png


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Ofroad'bent said:


> I'm really enjoying my little 3- XP-E L332-based headlamp for off-road commuting.
> The single board with drivers and LEDs makes for a tiny and simple build, and with a little 2000mah battery the whole thing lives on my helmet, or sometimes moves to my running headband.
> The tight beam is great for a helmet mount- I often run it on medium (20%) for commuting.
> 
> I'm surprised there aren't more folks doing single L332 /333 builds with these. It seems so much simpler than trying to mount up 3 LEDs and heat sink a driver. All it needs is a fairly simple cylindrical- type housing, instead of complicated boxes.


thanks for this positive feedback. The new 333 boards is much more appropriate for DIY builders as much better protected from assembly mistakes and also includes many new features and bug fixes. I hope it will go much better than 332.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> Hi guys, just returned from the vacation, got a lot of plans and enegry!
> 
> First, you should gently remove the microcontroller, the 6-pin chip marked as U3. I recommend to remove it with small cutting pliers. Next, you'll have to solder a wire to the pad #4, see the pins layout here -> https://www.avrfreaks.net/modules/PNphpBB2/files/pic10f2xx_pinout_icsp_144.png


Hi Quazzle, 
Sorry if im being dumb here, assuming i have the correct 6 pin chip and pin 4...
How do i wire the two boards up?


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

I think that the voltage control can be done much simpler - since the vast majority use these modules with 7.4V Li-ion, LiPo, the low voltage warning can be programmed in the MC version at 6V.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

agreed, I thought about an automatic battery detection assuming that it's always built of lithium cells. So it should support two shutdown levels 3 and 6V. Also it would be nice if it will automatically reduce the output when the battery is drained to ~30%, the levels should be about 3.5 and 7V respectively.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Goldigger said:



> Hi Quazzle,
> Sorry if im being dumb here, assuming i have the correct 6 pin chip and pin 4...
> How do i wire the two boards up?


no, it's wrong. I'll reply shortly as soon as get to my laptop to draw the diagram


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

quazzle said:


> agreed, I thought about an automatic battery detection assuming that it's always built of lithium cells. So it should support two shutdown levels 3 and 6V.


Oh, I remembered! Castle Creation ESCs have this feature - they detect the battery type (2S or 3S) based on initial voltage and they cut-off at the appropriate low voltage level.
http://www.castlecreations.com/products/sidewinder_micro.html


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> no, it's wrong. I'll reply shortly as soon as get to my laptop to draw the diagram


Cool, once i know how to do that i can put them both in my next light thats just having cad plans finalized..

I was going to just use one instead of both of the LM332MC's i have sitting on the side waiting for a host..


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

please see a correct diagram as per attached. The 30K-100K resistor is highly recommended.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> please see a correct diagram as per attached. The 30K-100K resistor is highly recommended.


Thanks Quazzle, do i remove both lc's? or leave one on the slave?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

just do as on the picture. The master should have the IC. The slave - shouldn't. Check the picture again.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> just do as on the picture. The master should have the IC. The slave - shouldn't. Check the picture again.


Yes Sir!


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

I am getting 2 of your 333 engines, and one is a master, the other is a slave. Do I simply follow the above diagram, but I have no chip to remove from the slave, and I simply join the 2 "slave" connections? Should I use the resistor?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

no, this diagram is applicable only to 332.

333 is fully prepared for linking. all you need is to connect both boards in parallel and link the M/S posts as on the picture:


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

Thanks for that.

One more question please:

I don't see where the "modes" are discussed. What modes are programmed into the MC? Low, Med, Hi, Strobe, HOLD button for off?

Thanks again,

Jacques


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

the UI is similar to L332, in other words:
- Three default modes toggled by power cutoff (100% 20% 2%)
- 2 modes triggered by the momentary button (100% and programmable ECO which is initially 20%)
- Press-hold (2sec) switches off the light from any mode
- Longer press-hold (4sec) activates strobes or the ECO programming menu. The ECO can be smoothly adjusted between 0% and 50%.

If the module remains always connected to the battery (there's no need in a power switch with L333), the ECO settings are held in the memory. And, of course, the defaults can be changed in the firmware up on your request.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> the UI is similar to L332, in other words:
> - Three default modes toggled by power cutoff (100% 20% 2%)
> - 2 modes triggered by the momentary button (100% and programmable ECO which is initially 20%)
> - Press-hold (2sec) switches off the light from any mode
> ...


So the L332 loses the ECO settings if diconnected from the battery


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Goldigger said:


> So the L332 loses the ECO settings if diconnected from the battery


You mean it loses the last ECO setting you set it to by holding in the momentary button?
Yes, mine loses it if I power off. It would be nice if it recalled the last ECO setting.

It looks like the L333 might recall the setting if it was powered off by holding the momentary switch down for 2 seconds. Quazzle?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> So the L332 loses the ECO settings if diconnected from the battery


in fact I have both options, but 99% customers don't want the light to store the last settings as it more confusing, no practical use. So the default option is when the memory is not persistent.


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

So when you hold the momentary switch for 4 secs, you get either "strobe" or ECO programming mode? How do you change the ECO setting when in that mode? Also,if I hold for 4 secs, does the strobe mode come first, and then if I hold it for 4 secs again, I get the ECO programming mode?


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

quazzle said:


> in fact I have both options, but 99% customers don't want the light to store the last settings as it more confusing, no practical use. So the default option is when the memory is not persistent.


That is a huge bummer for me if that's how the 332 works as well. I wanted to hook up a momentary switch to program in the eco mode to be 50% but not wire it up because I don't want another switch. I just want 100% and I would actually prefer about 70% for the secondary brightness but was gonna "program" it to 50% and then seal up the housing and go. So it's not programmable as the instructions say?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Yeah me to.. I overlooked that fact, it does say in the pdf for the L332MC

When disconnected
from the battery, the module retains the last active mode in a
transient memory during 5-7 seconds. A longer power outage
interval fully resets the module and it starts again with initial
100% (full output) mode.

I needed strobe 50% then 100%

Am i correct in saying that the temp sensing just cuts the light, rather than drop to a lower current level when the board gets to hot?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

BlownCivic said:


> So when you hold the momentary switch for 4 secs, you get either "strobe" or ECO programming mode? How do you change the ECO setting when in that mode? Also,if I hold for 4 secs, does the strobe mode come first, and then if I hold it for 4 secs again, I get the ECO programming mode?


ahhh... why nobody reads the manuals? 
I have a state diagram which clearly explains that at http://www.lux-rc.com/content/showcase/light_engines/L332PCB-EN-160710.pdf


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

quazzle said:


> ahhh... why nobody reads the manuals?
> I have a state diagram which clearly explains that at http://www.lux-rc.com/content/showcase/light_engines/L332PCB-EN-160710.pdf


I read the manual but I understood it to say that the module would simply forget whether it was in eco, strobe, or full power after 5-7 seconds. It does not say it will forget the programming of the eco mode.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

I can supply both options, i.e. 
- with a transient memory which is brushed up within a few seconds of outage; 
- or with a more extended memory which may store ECO and last mode settings for minutes or even hours during which you may safely replace the batteries and the configuration will not be lost.

by default the L333 is provided with a short-term memory retention period (about 3-5 sec), this mode is preferred by most people.

the difference is in the hardware (additional shunt resistor which damps the backup/reverse voltage), it can't be re-programmed later by a firmware upgrade.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> Am i correct in saying that the temp sensing just cuts the light, rather than drop to a lower current level when the board gets to hot?


yes, the first L333 batch implements a very basic temp protection assuming that this is a true "emergency" protection which is hardly ever activated (just to protect the module if it's powered with no heatsink or the heatsink contact is broken due to an accident).

As I mentioned here I plan to upgrade 333 in the future (by summer 2011 presumably), the idea of this upgrade is to replace PIC on Atmel (the same footprint). With new MCU it will be possible to monitor the temp as well as input voltage, the temp response logic will become more smart.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Any chance of a low battery warning? I like the Princeton Tec Apex's warning- it flashes 6 times before going out of regulation. 

Even more important with the L332/L333 with protected batteries as they will switch right off, possibly in mid-ride once voltage drops too far.

I know the L332 will dim down before shutting off, but in the 20% mode that's hard to detect.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

as I said here - yes, it will be done but I still have a batch of PIC MCUs which can't afford just to throw into a trash can  So these boards will implement very basic temp/low voltage cutoffs:
- switch off when the LED temp reaches 110-120C
- switch off when input V is 3.0 and lower. 

so these bad boys ain't melt or kill your battery draining it to zero but they're not too smart for now. This is a legacy from times when most people said - please do it simple, no fancy UI please. Times change, I know, and people always want more than you have to offer them.


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

Sorry for all the questions, but this is my 1st light build, and I need to be sure of some things. The batteries I'm using are Samsung 30A 3,000 mAh 18650 batteries with a max discharge rate of 2C so 6,000 mAh. My packs are wired 2S2P, so that means I can supply 12,000 mAh max current drain, right? I see in the PDF that these light engines will draw a max of 2.74 amps at 4.75v, so since my batteries will switch off at 3.0v (6.0v as they are wired 2S), does this mean I will stay at or near 5.0 amps with 2 light engines wired in parallel?

Also, does anyone have a source for connectors that are not molded but are compatible with the MagicShine connectors? All my battery packs and chargers as well as the other 3 light heads I have are all running the MagicShine connectors, but the wire molded into the connector is very small gauge (I'm guessing 22 awg or smaller) and I'm concerned that it will not be sufficient for the current draw that I'll be running. I would like to run 20 awg wire into the connector. Right now, I have a very short run (1" or less) of that tiny wire just to come out of the connector before I switch to 20 awg wire for the runs off the battery packs and the new light head I'm building.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

*Possible low battery alert*



quazzle said:


> as I said here - yes, it will be done but I still have a batch of PIC MCUs which can't afford just to throw into a trash can  So these boards will implement very basic temp/low voltage cutoffs:
> - switch off when the LED temp reaches 110-120C
> - switch off when input V is 3.0 and lower.
> 
> .


Last night skiing home it was a very windy -11C. My battery was in a jacket pocket, and I was running the light in 20% ECO mode, when it started to dim down then up then down again, and continued until I got home. Turning the light on and off didn't help, nor hitting the momentary ECO switch.

Is this an indicator of low battery, due to the battery getting cold and losing voltage, or could it be something to do with the light head getting cold?
If it is a low battery indicator it's certainly effective.

I'll have to see if I can replicate this, as I'm not sure exactly what caused it. I'll try with a different, fully charged battery.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Ofroad'bent said:


> when it started to dim down then up then down again, and continued until I got home. Turning the light on and off didn't help, nor hitting the momentary ECO switch.


I need more details - is it flashing or smoothly toggles between ECO and full? When it's down, is it fully off or just reduces the output?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

quazzle said:


> I need more details - is it flashing or smoothly toggles between ECO and full? When it's down, is it fully off or just reduces the output?


Smoothly dimming down to almost nothing but not quite off, then back up to 50% then down again. It reminds me of what happens if you hold the momentary switch.

I checked for a possible short in the momentary switch, but it's well insulated and was fine when I tested today indoors. I even ran the sealed momentary switch under running water to see if there was some sort of short in there, but it was fine. I'll try it again tonight with fully charged batteries- forecast is just as cold.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

ok, it's clear now. You have the BTN port short-circuited to the ground (the light case probably). This happens if you constantly hold the mometary button. May be your button is locked in the pressed state. This is also may be caused by electrically-conductive adhesives (like arctic silver). Check the curcuit between the BTN post and the ground. If it's short - you need to find where it is. Check the board edge around the BTN post, the trace from the post is very close to the edge. Can you make a closeup shot of it?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

quazzle said:


> ok, it's clear now. You have the BTN port short-circuited to the ground (the light case probably). This happens if you constantly hold the mometary button. May be your button is locked in the pressed state. This is also may be caused by electrically-conductive adhesives (like arctic silver). Check the curcuit between the BTN post and the ground. If it's short - you need to find where it is. Check the board edge around the BTN post, the trace from the post is very close to the edge. Can you make a closeup shot of it?


The switch is well insulated (painted with non-conductive material, then embedded in silicone, but it may be the momentary button froze closed. If it happens again I'll take the light apart and check for a short.

Too bad, I was hoping it's a low voltage signal.

Thanks for the prompt and precise advice. Love the product and the service!:thumbsup:


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Ofroad'bent said:


> The switch is well insulated (painted with non-conductive material, then embedded in silicone, but it may be the momentary button froze closed. If it happens again I'll take the light apart and check for a short.
> 
> Too bad, I was hoping it's a low voltage signal.
> 
> Thanks for the prompt and precise advice. Love the product and the service!:thumbsup:


OK, problem found. The housing contracts in the very cold conditions and is grounding the post all right. Not much space there, but I re-soldered it and insulated with some borrowed nail varnish.

Unfortunately the spring clip that holds the cover on is so tight I had to break the glass cover to get it out. I ordered a new 20.5mm crystal from eBay, but should find a more flexible spring clip.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Unfortunately the spring clip that holds the cover on is so tight I had to break the glass cover to get it out. I ordered a new 20.5mm crystal from eBay, but should find a more flexible spring clip.


I use an o-ring pressed into the groove at the front of my lights to retain the cover. Might work on your light too.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

It would need to be a pretty rigid o-ring, not the regular silicone.
Do you use anything special?

Not to hijack the L333 thread, I've started a new one here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=673164


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## savagemann (Jan 14, 2008)

Quazzle,
I was looking on your home page and didn't see any L333's on there.
Are they all sold out?
Any idea when you'll have some more?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

out of stock till mid-Jan, sorry,
I distributed 50pcs 333-betas so let's see what people say about it.
In the meanwhile I'll be polishing the details before the big bang.


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## klynk (Apr 18, 2010)

savagemann said:


> Are they all sold out?


Looks like Santa bought'em all


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## achesalot (Nov 8, 2005)

*To tell the truth*

Looking forward to the 333 series. I'd bought a 332, tested out and it looked great. Had bad weather for a couple weeks, finally went to the trails to test the light, plugged it in and it was dim and flickering. Couldn't figure what went wrong. Checked battery... it was fine. I'd been real careful not to connect with reversed polarity (marked the connector brightly). It's impossible to plug in backwards, but you can touch the connectors backwards. I got home and asked my teenage son if he's messed with the light. He confessed to 'testing' it out. I asked him if he knew that if he even touched the plug contacts backwards that it fried the micro controller. He said no and apologized. But I was proud that he confessed immediately and didn't try to deny that he'd messed with the light. He offered to pay for it out of his allowance, but I told him his honesty was worth more than $50 to me. I'm sure I destroyed plenty of my dad's things over the years 

Moral of the story... can't wait for the reverse polarity protected 333! I guess that's why I've been so fond of the 3021/3023 buckpucks over the years... they're almost impossible to destroy. I've fried other micro controlled lights as well... fragility has no place in the world of mountain biking! Anyway, I don't mean to complain, it's a great product quazzle... just sorry I never got to actually try it out. I'll order a 333 when they're available and try again. :madman:


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

achesalot said:


> ...
> Moral of the story... can't wait for the reverse polarity protected 333! I guess that's why I've been so fond of the 3021/3023 buckpucks over the years... they're almost impossible to destroy. I've fried other micro controlled lights as well... fragility has no place in the world of mountain biking! Anyway, I don't mean to complain, it's a great product quazzle... just sorry I never got to actually try it out. I'll order a 333 when they're available and try again. :madman:


good example of kids management . In the meanwhile you can send the fried 332s to me to be repaid in the lab (just make sure that you use enough of soft material as post guys aren't too gentle, I'll provide more details via email)


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## achesalot (Nov 8, 2005)

quazzle said:


> good example of kids management . In the meanwhile you can send the fried 332s to me to be repaid in the lab (just make sure that you use enough of soft material as post guys aren't too gentle, I'll provide more details via email)


Thanks quazzle. That's very kind and generous of you!


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

Well I put my dual L333 together using one of Matt's housing from above. I struggled a little fitting all the wires through the various passages that were provided on the boards, as well as the housing. I in fact opened up the holes in the housing slightly, as I didn't want to chance the wires getting cut form being crammed through the holes. I also had trouble with the routing of the wires around the optics, as the boards are designed to have the wires come off the same side of the boards as the LEDs and optics. I think maybe I could have gotten away with a slightly smaller gauge of wire, and that may have made it easier.

Running this off the MagicShine time bomb battery pack, I see what all the fuss is about. I thought my Nite Rider HID was bright when I 1st got it. Then I was happy with the slight improvement I got from my MagicShine 900 over the HID. 

They PALE in comparison to the L333. I should have know that would be the case, but until you actually witness it yourself, you don't understand the scale of the thing. Ya. There's no comparison. My only complaint at this point is the low setting. 20% won't cut it on low. That's not enough light to be useful for anything really. I think I'd like to try 50% for low. 

Beam shots later (after the holidays, unless I somehow find time between now and then).


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

BlownCivic said:


> Well I put my dual L333 together using one of Matt's housing from above. I struggled a little fitting all the wires through the various passages that were provided on the boards, as well as the housing. I in fact opened up the holes in the housing slightly, as I didn't want to chance the wires getting cut form being crammed through the holes. I also had trouble with the routing of the wires around the optics, as the boards are designed to have the wires come off the same side of the boards as the LEDs and optics. I think maybe I could have gotten away with a slightly smaller gauge of wire, and that may have made it easier.
> 
> Running this off the MagicShine time bomb battery pack, I see what all the fuss is about. I thought my Nite Rider HID was bright when I 1st got it. Then I was happy with the slight improvement I got from my MagicShine 900 over the HID.
> 
> ...


I can't wait to see the shots. I haven't seen the 20% in person, but I already know it's too low... which is why I was complaining that it forgets the new low setting every time you unplug the battery. It is what it is. I would have chosen 60% or something.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

I couldn't find these on the Lux-RC site and have a few Q's:

1) will they still have either XP-E or XP-G? I might be building a helmet light for a friend, so the XP-E would be more useful with the current optics.

2) any update on when the new batch will be in?

3) will they have smart temp and voltage monitoring or will that be relegated to a future update (summer 2011 I think I saw you mention)

4) I'm still not 100% clear on the modes. This will be in a housing with 22.5x22.5mm area for powercord and switch. Will the light engine still need an on-off switch for power and hi>med>low plus a mom switch for high>ECO? I'll only have space for one.

5) is the ECO mode setting still going to be temporary/ not remembered? A simple dual mode light would be ideal for helmet use (it's often hard to get a hand up there once, let alone twice), but having to program the lower level every time would be a bit of a pain.

cheers!


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

gticlay said:


> I can't wait to see the shots. I haven't seen the 20% in person, but I already know it's too low... which is why I was complaining that it forgets the new low setting every time you unplug the battery. It is what it is. I would have chosen 60% or something.


The 20% actually isn't too bad with the narrow beam XP-E unit on a helmet. I use it for trail commuting. I do look forward to a unit that remembers the previous ECO mode- If I was to order another one I'd have Quazzle add the different resistor for it to have a few hours memory. I still like L332 just fine though.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

mattthemuppet said:


> I couldn't find these on the Lux-RC site and have a few Q's:
> 
> 4) I'm still not 100% clear on the modes. This will be in a housing with 22.5x22.5mm area for powercord and switch. Will the light engine still need an on-off switch for power and hi>med>low plus a mom switch for high>ECO? I'll only have space for one.
> 
> ...


It's my understanding that you will be able to use the momentary switch to change modes, and also to turn off the light, so you can just unplug it between uses.
I think the ECO mode is pre-set, and has a few seconds memory, but Quazzle can change a resistor to give it a few hours memory. You'll have to set the level once per ride.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Ofroad'bent said:


> The 20% actually isn't too bad with the narrow beam XP-E unit on a helmet. I use it for trail commuting. I do look forward to a unit that remembers the previous ECO mode- If I was to order another one I'd have Quazzle add the different resistor for it to have a few hours memory. I still like L332 just fine though.


Can we do this ourselves to the L332? Add the resistor?


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

Ofroad'bent said:


> It's my understanding that you will be able to use the momentary switch to change modes, and also to turn off the light, so you can just unplug it between uses.
> I think the ECO mode is pre-set, and has a few seconds memory, but Quazzle can change a resistor to give it a few hours memory. You'll have to set the level once per ride.


The 1st statement is correct. I can turn the light off using the single momentary on switch (hold for 5 secs), as well toggle between low and high by 1 quick push. If I want total disconnect from the battery (not on stand-by), I simply unplug it.

As far as the ECO (low) setting, it's supposed to be programmable anywhere between nothing and 50%. I haven't played with that yet. I'm also hoping to find a way to permanently keep my low setting saved.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

wow, guys, why are you not on a party???

very surprised and pleased to see you here. I've got a couple of drinks already but I'll try to give responsible answers, so here we go



> ...I also had trouble with the routing of the wires around the optics, as the boards are designed to have the wires come off the same side of the boards as the LEDs and optics. I think maybe I could have gotten away with a slightly smaller gauge of wire, and that may have made it easier...


I recommend super-flexible silicone 0.24mm (24AWG) wires like this (muldental, Germany)








There's no need to use thick wires here as long as the length is minimal. I have an idea to include it to the options as well as small female connectors which should simplify the soldering job. Well noted, thanks!



> 1) will they still have either XP-E or XP-G? I might be building a helmet light for a friend, so the XP-E would be more useful with the current optics.
> 
> 2) any update on when the new batch will be in?
> 
> ...


1 - I'm giving away the secrets. I just have ordered XPE HEW R5 from CREE (no typo, R5 i.e. 139lm/w is now available for XP-E). The batch is large now so the stock should be sufficient. The lead time is 8 weeks. I refrain from ordering XP-G R5 in large qtys as I expect CREE should upgrade it soon.

2 - I anticipate to have XP-E HEW R5 in mid-Feb. In the meanwhile I'll be assembling XP-G cool's and neutrals. The 333 release deadline is 20 Jan, 2011.

3 - I'm quite occupied with site upgrading and 2UP, 4UP and 7UP modules (by the way, did everyone voted for new optic? https://lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/magazine/10mm_lens I still haven't enough votes to make final selection). So I'm still in the plan to upgrade the L333 with input voltage sensing somewhere in May-June.

4 - In fact the 333 doesn't need the power switch and designed to stay always connected to the battery. No risk to drain it to zero, it's tested. So it can be fully operated by a MOM button. Yes, with MOM you'll have only two modes (FULL and ECO), but the low mode can be set to any level between 1% and 50% so I hardly can imagine where it would be not enough.

5 - Two options. First, do not disconnect the light from the battery. ECO setting is kept in memory while the engine is in stand by. The stand-by current drain is very very low (somewhere about 10-50 nA). Another option is to ask me to make a special board for you (the one which keeps the settings even if it's plugged off from supply)



> It's my understanding that you will be able to use the momentary switch to change modes, and also to turn off the light, so you can just unplug it between uses.
> I think the ECO mode is pre-set, and has a few seconds memory, but Quazzle can change a resistor to give it a few hours memory. You'll have to set the level once per ride.


exactly, Ofroad'bent, you're qualified as the laboratory expert now!











> Can we do this ourselves to the L332? Add the resistor?


no, this trick is applicable only to the new L333 board (read more about it here https://lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/magazine/L333)


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

thanks for all the replies (no party for me, 2 small children to put to bed then be woken up by at the crack of dawn ), especially Quazzle!

XP-E R5 sounds awesome and will mean that there'll be no needing to compromise between lumens (XP-G) and throw (XP-E) as there is now. Time frame sounds good too, give me time to clear my desk/ bench plus it's unlikely we'll be doing much riding once the snow really hits in a couple of weeks.

A single MOM switch would be fantastic and 2 modes is more than enough. I'd imagine permanently retained ECO setting would be ideal, especially if it still remains user configurable.

Now I just have to convince the guy paying for it, though it shouldn't be all that hard 

Merry Christmas!


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

I made an error. I somehow managed to set the unit to a really low setting last night, and that is what I was complaining about being too weak. I've since discovered that whatever setting is the native setting (default) appears to be pretty good for a low setting. **** edit **** Almost forgot to mention that this is with the narrow 16 degree clear optics.*

These photos were taken with Daylight white balance, 6 second exposure, and I still have not figured out how to set the F stop on my Canon Rebel XTi, so it's at 5.6, *** edit *** ISO of 100. I`m guessing the furthest corner on the left side of the shed at the fence is probably around 25m, but I'll measure more accurately soon.

Oh, and Merry Christmas everyone.

1st photo is the MagicShine 900 on full power:










2nd photo is the double L333 on the default ECO setting (20%??):










And last we have the double L333 on full (freakin laser beams) power:


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Damn Civic, that's a huge difference. I'm glad I have a housing just waiting for me to order a couple of L333s.

Thanks for the pictures.

Tim


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## jsigone (Aug 25, 2004)

BlownCivic said:


> I made an error. I somehow managed to set the unit to a really low setting last night, and that is what I was complaining about being too weak. I've since discovered that whatever setting is the native setting (default) appears to be pretty good for a low setting.
> 
> These photos were taken with Daylight white balance, 6 second exposure, and I still have not figured out how to set the F stop on my Canon Rebel XT1, so it's at 5.6. I`m guessing the furthest corner on the left side of the shed at the fence is probably around 25m, but I'll measure more accurately soon.


Put the dial on M, Right thumb hold on AV button next to the upper right of the LCD, you should see the highlight change from shutter speed to the F stop, use the wheel to change the F stop while holding the AV. Change ISO to 100 as well. If the F stop doesn't go lower the 5.6 when change the zoom to a wider shot.


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

BlownCivic, I'm going to be using the exact same setup. Double L333's with Matthewm's housing. Did you take any pictures when you were trying to put everything inside the housing? Whatever you've got in the way of advice for building up the light would be much appreciated. By the way, what wire gauge were you using?


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## matthewm (Mar 29, 2009)

I still have more housing left if anyone is interested! Just send me a PM.

I would use the largest gauge wire that you can find with an approximate maximum O.D. of 1.6mm (so you can connect three wires through the PCB wire hole) but as quazzle said, these do not have to be large as their length is short.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

quazzle said:


> 1 - I'm giving away the secrets. I just have ordered XPE HEW R5 from CREE (no typo, R5 i.e. 139lm/w is now available for XP-E). The batch is large now so the stock should be sufficient. The lead time is 8 weeks. I refrain from ordering XP-G R5 in large qtys as I expect CREE should upgrade it soon.


You've seen the comments from Cutter regarding the HEW?
_"Sorry to rain on the parade but this is not I repeat not intended for torch apps, and you will be very disappointed if you purchase these for any kind of throw. The additional phosphor is all about width"_









:sad:


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

jsigone said:


> Put the dial on M, Right thumb hold on AV button next to the upper right of the LCD, you should see the highlight change from shutter speed to the F stop, use the wheel to change the F stop while holding the AV. Change ISO to 100 as well. If the F stop doesn't go lower the 5.6 when change the zoom to a wider shot.


Thanks for the tutorial. Now I know how to change the F stop. Next time I do beam shots I'll be able to follow the MTBR standard perfectly.

I had set the ISO to 100. I just forgot to mention that.

No pictures of the build. Sorry. I do have to take it back apart though, because I didn't put any heat transfer paste in there. I also need to secure the switch to the back cover. I'll try and remember to take some pics while I have it apart. I used a mixture of wire gauges. The momentary switch and the Master/slave connections were wired with some 22 awg automotive grade wire. The rest was the wire Matt sent with the housing. Next time I'll take my time and find the correct wire for the build. I actually needed to feed 4 wires through one of the housing holes. Pos, Neg, master/slave, momentary switch. The other only had the 3 wires. The holes were much easier to work with once they were opened up.

Thanks again.


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## ortelius (Dec 6, 2007)

znomit said:


> You've seen the comments from Cutter regarding the HEW?


Yup. HEWs have been discussed also here, on this forum. Quazzle, better double check with Cree representative, there's a chance you'll be able to use those leds only for lighting your lab.  In the first sentence of Cree's HEW whitepaper it says:


> XLamp XP-E High Efficiency White LEDs upgrade the XLamp XP-E to leading performance levels *for diffuse lighting applications*.


It's probably still time to cancel or modify that order....


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

a few notes/questions:

- yes, there's a risk and I have advised by the CREE representative that HEW's chromaticity in not regular within the spacial distribution and they recommend a diffuser to mix the light. Also, the distribution diagram is more "focused" but it should be a big issue for optic I use.

- as long as BTN and M/S operate on logical levels I'd recommend using the most thin wires here. The current is negligible.

- BlownCivic, may I post the beamshots on my site?


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

quazzle said:


> - BlownCivic, may I post the beamshots on my site?


Certainly. :thumbsup:


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

Couple more beam shots. Got the F-stop correct this time (4.0), but I was rushed (wife and kid and 2 dogs on a walk), so the actual beam of the light wasn't pointing in the exact same place as the camera, and the camera shifted slightly between the pics, so the A-B is not 100% correct.

Still shows the difference in light between these 2 lights rather well.

MS 900 on full:










Double L333 on full:


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

It sort of does. The MS900 has a pretty specific spot pattern that just doesn't show up on the photos.



BlownCivic said:


> Couple more beam shots. Got the F-stop correct this time (4.0), but I was rushed (wife and kid and 2 dogs on a walk), so the actual beam of the light wasn't pointing in the exact same place as the camera, and the camera shifted slightly between the pics, so the A-B is not 100% correct.
> 
> Still shows the difference in light between these 2 lights rather well.
> 
> ...


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I snapped the + pin off!!









Should still be able to get a wire soldered to it though..
Quazzle am i right in saying that the + pin is in contact with the end of the brown chip to the left of R2?


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

I actually accidentally desoldered 2 of the pins on my 2 boards. A little too much heat for too long and they popped off. On one of them I re-soldered the pin. On the other, I just soldered the end of the wire directly to the board.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I've noticed without a momentary switch wired in, just a normal on/off switch..
flick the switch on and you get 100%, flick it off and back on quickly and you get the lower level. Think its 20%.
Flick it off and back on again and you get 100% again..


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## BKruahnndon (Jul 17, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> I've noticed without a momentary switch wired in, just a normal on/off switch..
> flick the switch on and you get 100%, flick it off and back on quickly and you get the lower level. Think its 20%.
> Flick it off and back on again and you get 100% again..


this is how I select modes and turn on/off my micro unit...but I also don't use a switch at all. Plug the connectors together half way, give it a tap to get to full power, then finish connecting them.

This method isn't for everybody, but I don't mind.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Goldigger said:


> I've noticed without a momentary switch wired in, just a normal on/off switch..
> flick the switch on and you get 100%, flick it off and back on quickly and you get the lower level. Think its 20%.
> Flick it off and back on again and you get 100% again..


I have 2 switches on my L332. One is a power disconnect, and goes 100%- Off -20% -Off -2%.
I like all 3 modes for various things, but you have to go to "off" first to get to the next mode, which could be a problem while riding. I could see it for adventure racing, where we could be assembling bikes in the dark or reading maps on 2%, slowly climbing steep doubletrack or pushing through swamps and thick forest all night on 20%, or hammering at 100%.

The momentary switch I rigged up goes smoothly 100%-ECO-100%, with no off in between. ECO is 20% by default, (seems about half as bright as 100% to the eye) but you can ramp it up or down for that session. I see it as "Technical/ Non-technical", and prefer it for riding.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Ofroad'bent said:


> I have 2 switches on my L332. One is a power disconnect, and goes 100%- Off -20% -Off -2%.
> I like all 3 modes for various things, but you have to go to "off" first to get to the next mode, which could be a problem while riding. I could see it for adventure racing, where we could be assembling bikes in the dark or reading maps on 2%, slowly climbing steep doubletrack or pushing through swamps and thick forest all night on 20%, or hammering at 100%.
> 
> The momentary switch I rigged up goes smoothly 100%-ECO-100%, with no off in between. ECO is 20% by default, (seems about half as bright as 100% to the eye) but you can ramp it up or down for that session. I see it as "Technical/ Non-technical", and prefer it for riding.


I just wired up the momentary switch, from full power hold it down untill strobe kicks it..
That strobe is mental, I've never seen anything like it 

I need to find a switch identical to my momentary that can handle the input current of the battery 2x18650 in series
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=7027037
Can i get one like this that is on/off but can handle 1amp or so? at 7.4v.
will a latching switch do this?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> That strobe is mental, I've never seen anything like it


it's а risky strobe, don't misuse it, especially in public. I'm serious 
You can read more about 10Hz strobe here (the last section) -> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strobe_light


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> it's а risky strobe, don't misuse it, especially in public. I'm serious
> You can read more about 10Hz strobe here (the last section) -> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strobe_light


I'm struggling to read it, I'm still seeing flashes


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Quazzle, I seem to have lost my modes, I can only get 20% when the board is turned on...
Is it broken?


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## bravellir (Nov 24, 2008)

Goldigger said:


> I just wired up the momentary switch, from full power hold it down untill strobe kicks it..
> That strobe is mental, I've never seen anything like it
> 
> I need to find a switch identical to my momentary that can handle the input current of the battery 2x18650 in series
> ...


I'm still searching for somehing like those ITW's. I found so far the one jsigone used here http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=678396


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> Quazzle, I seem to have lost my modes, I can only get 20% when the board is turned on...Is it broken?


the version please (332 or 333)?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> the version please (332 or 333)?


332

Have i killed the micro controller? 
Was left out with loose wires, connected to the battery...could easily have been knocked by my other half


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

I should test it to say what's wrong, can you explain it in details? Usually the high mode is lost when the boost regulator is killed. The easiest way to kill the regulator is to connect 332 in reverse as this board has no reverse polarity protection, unlike 333.

I have about dozen 332's knocked down by the reverse polarity that's why this protection is added in 333.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> I should test it to say what's wrong, can you explain it in details? Usually the high mode is lost when the boost regulator is killed. The easiest way to kill the regulator is to connect 332 in reverse as this board has no reverse polarity protection, unlike 333.
> 
> I have about dozen 332's knocked down by the reverse polarity that's why this protection is added in 333.


With a momentary switch connected and a normal on/off switch, turn the switch on to apply power to the board.
All the leds light up but at only 20%, the momentary switch does nothing at all...

I may have reversed the connection as i had the bare ends of the wires exposed where i had temporarily twisted them together to connect the batteries..
Can i send it to you to be fixed please?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> With a momentary switch connected and a normal on/off switch, turn the switch on to apply power to the board.
> All the leds light up but at only 20%, the momentary switch does nothing at all...
> 
> I may have reversed the connection as i had the bare ends of the wires exposed where i had temporarily twisted them together to connect the batteries..
> Can i send it to you to be fixed please?


sure, please send to new "faster" address (USPS priority is fine):
Serge Dolgov
PO Box 102
Moscow 115127
Russia


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> sure, please send to new "faster" address (USPS priority is fine):
> Serge Dolgov
> PO Box 102
> Moscow 115127
> Russia


Thanks Quazzle :thumbsup: 
PM on its way


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Hi quazzle, i sent you the 332 last friday so should be on it's way to you.

Out of curiosity, Im a scuba diver and some freinds bought dive lights that have tripple XPG's with the 20mm optics..
I dont suppose light for me in poland bought some of the 332's from you did they?

Thanks


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

probably... I already can't track each single board.. they may appear in different places, even in Poland (by the way, I lived near Szczecin for 4 year when was a kid, so Poland means more for me)

well, I've got two news, one is bad. From which to start?

The bad one goes first. The L333 production delays again on 5 days. The reason is in China where we tried to localize the MCPCB production, so you can see what we have received here (I have a comparison macro shot there) http://lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/blogs/experience/L333/L333 (scroll to the bottom)

But I have a good news too. After 20 days and nights of hard work I have finished with new site engine which now supports profiles and forum. We do unusual things so the forum is also unique (written from scratch by the hands which typed in this message. Guys, I really got the keys polished on my laptop). I'd be very glad to see some of you subscribed or just said something (anonymous comments are welcomed too)

the site is running on a brand new hardware in America, the address is the same -> www.lux-rc.com


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Quazzle any news on the 1400 lumen tripples?
http://www.lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/blogs/the_lab/1400_lumens&_sx=0&_sy=114


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

Goldigger said:


> Quazzle and news on the 1400 lumen tripples?
> http://www.lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/blogs/the_lab/1400_lumens&_sx=0&_sy=114


Not new. Has been on the site for a while now.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

gticlay said:


> Not new. Has been on the site for a while now.


But not available, i dont recall them ever being available..hence why i asked any news
Where did you get new from??


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> Quazzle any news on the 1400 lumen tripples?
> http://www.lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/blogs/the_lab/1400_lumens&_sx=0&_sy=114


thanks for asking, replied here -> http://www.lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/blogs/the_lab/1400_lumens/1400_lumens&_sx=0&_sy=872


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## hecs_ru (Feb 14, 2009)

Not planned 3XML module for CUTE-3SS?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

the L333 parts have arrived, I start production on Monday. Also, we've got CREE XP-E HEW rated with unreal R5 bin (139lm/w). It's crazy but it seems XP-E catch up with XP-G in efficiency. So a tri-XPE may generate the same amount of light packed in a narrower beam.


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

I thought the new xp-e HEW had a wider view angle and designed for fixture lighting?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

i should have comparison beamshots tomorrow


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## P220C (Jan 31, 2011)

These look to be exactly what I have been looking for. Can't wait to get one of these mounted up for a lightweight headlamp.

Will the next version, with the programmable temperature sensing, cut power to the emitters, or will it just reduce the current until the unit cools down?

Also, when do you think it will be released?

Great work on these.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Thanks, currently I can't control the temp cutoffs in the firmware, it's hardcoded inside. The next version will let to manage this by the firmware, in other words any logic will be possible to implement. I think that it should reduce the output with some warning before the final cutoff at 120C. We plan to release it in Apr-May


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

about 70 different configurations added: http://lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/products/light_engines/3UP

three output levels:
* A - 16 watts, 1.55A LED current, fully regulated in 6.0V-9.9V (2 cells). 
* B - 11 watts, 1.1A LED current, fully regulated in 4.5V-9.9V (still 2 cells).
* C - 7.8watts. 750mA LED current, fully regulated in 2.8V-9.9V (1 or 2 cells)

three configurations:
* MC - master (programmable, operated by power shutdown or momentary button)
* SL - slave
* SM - single mode

many LED options, including:
* XPG cool R5, outdoor R4 and warm 80CRI Q5
* XPE HEW R5 (cool)
* XPE R3 cool 6000K and neutral 4300K
* different colors XP-E


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## BKruahnndon (Jul 17, 2009)

Your website is not iPad friendly.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

BKruahnndon said:


> Your website is not iPad friendly.


 thanks, any 
chance to see the screenshot?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> about 70 different configurations added: http://lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/products/light_engines/3UP
> 
> three output levels:
> * A - 16 watts, 1.55A LED current, fully regulated in 6.0V-9.9V (2 cells).
> ...


Just had a look on your site, you have been busy.
I like all the different options for boards you've created :thumbsup:

It's hard to believe the xpe is pumping out nearly a 1000 lumens on a tripple


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## BKruahnndon (Jul 17, 2009)

quazzle said:


> thanks, any
> chance to see the screenshot?


Giving you crap more than anything 

Clicking on a pic to view the popup larger image shows the image but without a close button. Leaving a popup pic covering everything.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

just received high-CRI leds from CREE. So now I can build the boards with:

80 CRI 3000K warm white XP-G
90 CRI 2500K warm white XP-G

90 CRI is the highest color rendering index offered by CREE now.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Quazzle, do you have any combo of triple and optic that can beat your XP-E 800 lumen thrower yet?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

frankly saying I don't quite understand what do you mean? Total luminous flux or what? XP-E is not the most bright option. By the way, triple XP-E HEW provide more narrow beam than XP-G but it's wider than normal XP-E. And I have XP-E HEW rated at 139lm/w (R5 bin). In total I have about 100 different configurations already


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

quazzle said:


> frankly saying I don't quite understand what do you mean? Total luminous flux or what? XP-E is not the most bright option. By the way, triple XP-E HEW provide more narrow beam than XP-G but it's wider than normal XP-E. And I have XP-E HEW rated at 139lm/w (R5 bin). In total I have about 100 different configurations already


SorryI wasn't clear. I meant to ask if any of your lights are better throwers than the original XP-E. The XP-Gs have more lumens but less throw.

I know the XPE-HEW have a lot of lumens, but I thought they were more diffuse than the XP-G from the beamshots.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

this is my beamshot made with CARCLO 10507. sorry that all LEDs have different tints but we're not comparing the chromaticity now. HEW is somewhat in the middle between regular XP-E and XP-G. XP-E HEW has exactly the same die size as XP-E.Yes, the dome has a diffusing nature but not too much. 









I'd say HEW is not wide, it's more soft than with XP-G and XP-E. It should provide more throw than XP-E but I didn't measure it yet, It's still too cold here to get outdoors for night beamshots and measurements in the trees.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

quazzle said:


> this is my beamshot made with CARCLO 10507. sorry that all LEDs have different tints but we're not comparing the chromaticity now. HEW is somewhat in the middle between regular XP-E and XP-G. XP-E HEW has exactly the same die size as XP-E.Yes, the dome has a diffusing nature but not too much.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The XP-E beam on the left is definitely brighter in the hotspot than the others. The XP-E HEW doesn't look much different from the XP-G.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Ofroad'bent said:


> The XP-E beam on the left is definitely brighter in the hotspot than the others. The XP-E HEW doesn't look much different from the XP-G.


It's not correct comparing brightness here as all LEDs have different tints and camera sensitivity is not the same between cool and warm spectrum. XPG shows a much more sharp edge than XPE HEW. In practice XPG look like a big evenly-dissipated round spot while XPE HEW looks more like a Gaussian distribution with high-intensity central area and smooth decays on the perimeter.

I'll redo the beamshots with the hotspot luminosity measurement using a well-calibrated tool.

Some correction about 90-CRI white XPG. In fact they're 3000K, not too reddish, look more like classic incandescent bulb. The highest efficiency bin available now is Q2, it's about 87lm/w. As all XPG, 90-CRI can be driven up to 1.5 amps.

I have added them here too:
http://lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/products/light_engines/3UP


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I'm hoping to use one of the XPE-HEWs for my next sled build for a friend, rather than an XM-L and L-flex. I like a tighter, cleaner beam for a headlamp, and the build will be a bit easier too. I have a feeling that the HEW might also put out less heat at high power than an XM-L.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

HEW has one big issue - chromaticity irregularity in the special radiation so it hardly can be used alone with a clear optic. But it's not a problem if many LEDs are used. Also, the light mixing is much better if all leds have different orientation when installed on the board. I do think that HEW is a very good option for 7UP and 12UP builds combining low cost, good efficiency and compact size.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Dont like to grumble Quazzle as you did kindly replace my 332 with a 333.
The pcb is slightly larger than 20mm so i've had to file it down to fit my 20.5mm hole.
One of the solder pins is off centre, so that it obsructs the leg of the optic from sitting properly. 
Nothing major but just might be something to look out for on some of the production runs.

On another note does my 333 offer voltage monitoring? i recieved it middle of feb.

Thanks


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Hi, thanks for the note, I have double checked the diameter, it's 20 and it's strange that it didn't match your 20.5 hole as there were no complains from other builders which order them in bulk qtys (in hundreds). As for the voltage monitoring, all versions have a simple cutoff at 2.8V.

can you make a shot of the pin issue?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> Hi, thanks for the note, I have double checked the diameter, it's 20 and it's strange that it didn't match your 20.5 hole as there were no complains from other builders which order them in bulk qtys (in hundreds). As for the voltage monitoring, all versions have a simple cutoff at 2.8V.
> 
> can you make a shot of the pin issue?


Hi Quazzle, sorry for the delay..
here's the pics of the pins..the one on the left is the offender..








Because of the tight pin, the optic doesn't sit flat, obviously with a bit of clamping force it's ok..









I'll try and move it over a tad a resolder it, but im a little worried of getting to close to the legs of the chip to the left.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Goldigger said:


> Hi Quazzle, sorry for the delay..
> here's the pics of the pins..the one on the left is the offender..
> 
> 
> ...


Great pics, Golddigger. Why don't you grind the legs of the optic down a touch to clear the pin?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Great pics, Golddigger. Why don't you grind the legs of the optic down a touch to clear the pin?


Because that would be to logical


With my fat fingers I'd probably wreck the optic, when I soldered the last 332 some of the pins came off there solder points with not a lot of effort.
I'll just use a pair of tweezers and resolder it...hopefully..


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

oops, i think it's worth replacing. What if you send it back again, I'll send a new with lens to make sure that it seats properly. Some pics of how it should be (with connectors instead of direct soldering). Yes, I do recommend using standard 0.5mm female connectors (like these https://search.digikey.com/scripts/...&lang=en&site=us&keywords=952-1457-ND&x=0&y=0)

a bare board (HEW leds)









with 10507 lens installed. It should sit with no pressure









another view on the lens (see the clearing between the leds and the lens)









both lens and the board have the same diameter









the size









regarding the size issue, I have checked a few boards from the last production batch, all are 20.0-20.1mm in diameter, I noticed no variability. Also, the 10507 lens are 20.0-20.2 in diameter, so if the L333 cannot sit in your housing, the lens won't too. No one reported about this problem before, it's very strange. If you send me that board back I'll check it again. Probably yours one is a prototype (4 tabs instead of two) and the size issue is a result of not accurate tabs removing (all boards are assembled in a tabbed panels and removed from the panel by cutting the tabs). The first 20 boards were made with 4 tabs which made difficult accurate tabs cutting.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I like the socket connectors.
Anybody want to split an order of these, or sell me a few?
I got killed on shipping to Canada last time by Digi-key ($60 on a $10 order, and no option for redress)


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

wow! why $60? I have also a cheap but registered mail delivery with a flat rate about $10 all around the world. I hate discussing commercial topics here, it's more for technical interest. Please PM me on this.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

quazzle said:


> wow! why $60? I have also a cheap but registered mail delivery with a flat rate about $10 all around the world. I hate discussing commercial topics here, it's more for technical interest. Please PM me on this.


Oh, trying to order from Canada got me an automatic $30 shipping. It turns out there was a digikey.ca site that would have been better. They did screw me over though as a tiny part was backordered, and they gouged me another $30 for that. What irked me more was that they didn't offer to fix the situation after I contacted them- the back-order was their fault.

Buyer beware.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

don't forget you can always get it sent through State College  There's also a tab you can select on the order page which specifies what you want doing with backordered stuff (whether it says backordered or not on the page) - always select "hold order until complete" option, it's what I do and they've always been really nice to me.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I didn't mean to get on a rant here and hijack the thread- I just had a bad experience and the correct way to navigate the website wasn't obvious to me. Live and learn.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> oops, i think it's worth replacing. What if you send it back again, I'll send a new with lens to make sure that it seats properly. Some pics of how it should be (with connectors instead of direct soldering). Yes, I do recommend using standard 0.5mm female connectors (like these https://search.digikey.com/scripts/...&lang=en&site=us&keywords=952-1457-ND&x=0&y=0)
> 
> a bare board (HEW leds)
> 
> ...


Hi Quazzle,
I only just noticed your reply..somehow i missed it in my emails..strange..
Anyway, i did have number of tabs on my board, but i cant remember if there was 4..there was definietly two present, i couldn't miss them. The lens fits fine, just the board was a squeeze. I can hopefully just move the pin over a touch, i'll let you know the outcome.

Thanks :thumbsup:


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Quazzle, are the 333 datasheets available? I can't locate them on your site..


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I officially give up with these..another broken one:madman: should have taken you up on a replacement, but didnt want to bother you.
I didnt move the pin soldered it up and clamped it in the housing...lots of brilliant light for the first go..
Next day doesn't switch on, so open it up, and one of the pins has given way lifting the black part of the board up ruining its trace in the circuit., which is no longer connected! so the master pin is not on the board..!!!!


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## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Goldigger said:


> I officially give up with these..another broken one:madman: should have taken you up on a replacement, but didnt want to bother you.
> I didnt move the pin soldered it up and clamped it in the housing...lots of brilliant light for the first go..
> Next day doesn't switch on, so open it up, and one of the pins has given way lifting the black part of the board up ruining its trace in the circuit., which is no longer connected! so the master pin is not on the board..!!!!


Which pin is it? I've done that before and fixed it by soldering to another place on the board.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

chelboed said:


> Which pin is it? I've done that before and fixed it by soldering to another place on the board.


It's the master pin
The onboard red led blinks and then stays brightly lit


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## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Goldigger said:


> It's the master pin
> The onboard red led blinks and then stays brightly lit


I'm a bit out of the loop. I didn't know they had red LED's now, LOL.

The "master pin" meaning the positive gold pin, correct?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

chelboed said:


> I'm a bit out of the loop. I didn't know they had red LED's now, LOL.
> 
> The "master pin" meaning the positive gold pin, correct?


Nope..its the mc pin master control, used for connecting to a slave board.. I'm guessing it damaged the trace to the nearby chips..ill post a pic in a bit..


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## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Oh...I've broken off the [+] pin before, but not that one.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> Quazzle, are the 333 datasheets available? I can't locate them on your site..


sorry, missed your question (for some reason I don't receive updates via email). I'm going upgrade the L332 datasheet to L333 after automatic battery detection is added. I hope to finish with hardware changes and programming in 3 weeks.

UPDATE: RGB beamshots are added here. RGB triple is compared with normal and HEW XP-E.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> I officially give up with these..another broken one:madman: should have taken you up on a replacement, but didnt want to bother you.
> I didnt move the pin soldered it up and clamped it in the housing...lots of brilliant light for the first go..
> Next day doesn't switch on, so open it up, and one of the pins has given way lifting the black part of the board up ruining its trace in the circuit., which is no longer connected! so the master pin is not on the board..!!!!


I have no idea what's happening at your end. I never broke pins here. Tom from Oveready.com sold a few hundreds of lights with L332's and L333's and none were returned with broken pins. I think I should add wires with presoldered female connectors especially for you. L333 is very small and requires good soldering skills and equipment. Probably you put too much solder on pins and brake them by pushing the optic


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> I have no idea what's happening at your end. I never broke pins here. Tom from Oveready.com sold a few hundreds of lights with L332's and L333's and none were returned with broken pins. I think I should add wires with presoldered female connectors especially for you. L333 is very sxmall and requires good soldering skills and equipment. Probably you put too much solder on pins and brake them by pushing the optic


Obviously because of the pins being tight in the first place, the added solder made things worse, and the pressure from the optic leg was to much for the master pin.
I wouldn't have been able to use your fancy connectors that slide over the pins, that's for sure.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> Obviously because of the pins being tight in the first place, the added solder made things worse, and the pressure from the optic leg was to much for the master pin.I wouldn't have been able to use your fancy connectors that slide over the pins, that's for sure.


You had a defected m/s pin, that's my fault. So what should work fine in your case is to replace the whole thing with a pre-assembled unit, two wires are pre-soldered to the pins in the laboratory with the optic glued to the board. In the end you will have a protected unit with two super-flexible silicone wires.

Just an example of a company which uses L333's in large qtys - http://www.oveready.com/moddoolar/moddoolar-pocket/prod_223.html
Believe me, if the pins were an issue I'd be said and had to change the layout.


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## borrower (Feb 26, 2011)

Apologies if this has been covered already, but can someone confirm that the momentary switch on a L333-MC can be run by a wire 250mm long? If yes, does it have to be a particular size?

I'm building a headlight (headtorch for those in my currently adopted country), and am seriously thinking about moving the momentary switch to the back of the head.

Thanks in advance!


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

Hi Borrower. I confirm that there is no problem with using a remote switch 250mm away and any size wire will do (the issue is connectivity, not conductivity). 

I use Cateye waterproof computer remote switches and these use very fine Litz wire (*****es to solder, but great switches).


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

just a short update - a low temp. testing on a naked board, posted here - https://lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/blogs/experience/L333


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

another idiot test - what if to put a naked board in a tank with water and turn in on?









yes, I did it, here some pics -> https://lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/blogs/experience/production


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> another idiot test - what if to put a naked board in a tank with water and turn in on?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Try it in salt water


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

more shots for the underwater


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

guess what it is?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> guess what it is?


Is it a Hobnob biscuit?


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

Ah, great looking Q! But does it have the new micro?


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## matthewm (Mar 29, 2009)

is it copper?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

copper inside. gold plating outside. gold plated core, gold plated conductors.


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## DIYtailight (Sep 14, 2009)

Better conducting of heat? Are you thinking of offering this?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

it's not just better. It's significantly better. Not thanks to replacing aluminum on copper. But thanks that now the LED's heat terminals are soldered DIRECTLY to the copper core. So we have got rid of the thin insulator layer between the LED's terminals and the metal core in regular MCPCB. We call this new board type DSPCB which stands for Direct Sink PCB.

Just to give an idea, the thermal conductivity of the best insulation ceramics used in expensive laminates lays between 2.5 ~ 5.0 W/mK. Thermal conductivity of pure copper is about 500 W/mK. Copper conducts heat 100 times better. This is a huge difference which definitely excuses all efforts of trying to solder the LED's directly on a metal sink rather then using metal core laminates for the stars.

Check this thread and my blog for more information and further updates!


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

I keep moving towards the off-the-shelf designs and now I almost finished with new component-based light system which uses L333+ module and can be easily customized/configured by a user which is not quite familiar with soldering and lathe.


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

That looks very interesting. Is the switch waterproof?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Mark2c said:


> That looks very interesting. Is the switch waterproof?


Thanks! :thumbsup:

Of course. It's not just waterproof but also "gasproof" as this is a nitrogen filled head. I'm going to come up with a very limited offer (just 10pcs) which I plan to distribute within my subscribers.

This is a component system, so it can be easily converted to a larger tactical or to bar/helmet with a separate battery pack. Just an example of 2 x 18350 (or single 18650) variant:


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

This is a component system, so it can be easily converted to a larger tactical or to bar/helmet with a separate battery pack. Just an example of 2 x 18350 (or single 18650) variant:







[/QUOTE]

That sounds very tempting. Could it handle one of your 3xXP-E boards driven by a single 18650 without overheating - well aired on fast downhills of course ??

If you sell them for a reasonable price they would make perfect bicycle lights! And with that shiny surface the flashaholics over at CPF will pull you these 10 prototypes out of your hands.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

mrradlos said:


> This is a component system, so it can be easily converted to a larger tactical or to bar/helmet with a separate battery pack. Just an example of 2 x 18350 (or single 18650) variant:


Not only can you make great lights and components, but how do you get that amazing photography?


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Not only can you make great lights and components, but how do you get that amazing photography?


By putting it on a very clean glass table? Must admit, the quality of his pics has always impressed. either a damn good camera with someone that knows how to use it or he pays a professional :thumbsup:

By the way quazzle, does the twin 18650 version "shake' at all when you turn it on because if it does I think it'll be a big seller with the female market 

Really nice work mate, well done


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## langen (May 21, 2005)

quazzle said:


> ...or to bar/helmet with a separate battery pack...


Do you have a pic of this option also?

Great looking light btw!


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

a better and larger shot:


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

emu26 said:


> By the way quazzle, does the twin 18650 version "shake' at all when you turn it on because if it does I think it'll be a big seller with the female market
> Really nice work mate, well done


thanks, in fact the tail cap may disappoint many of them as it looks like this


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

mrradlos said:


> ...And with that shiny surface the flashaholics over at CPF will pull you these 10 prototypes out of your hands.


thanks!  CPF? What it stands for?


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forum.php

Surely you have heard of them? If not get over there now and sign up

Edit: OK, just saw the winkey at the end of your comment


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

quazzle said:


> thanks!  CPF? What it stands for?


As there really might be some readers, that don't know: CPF stands for the impressive candlepowerforums. Here a link to a very interessting discussion about heat :madmax: . Just by chance lux-rc was mentioned :eekster:


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

it seems the link is broken, doesn't work from here


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## xyz-saft (Sep 23, 2010)

The link works fine for me.
Firefox @ Win7


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

up again.

I have added more facts and pictures here -> http://lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/products/complete_lights/FL33_system


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## spence77 (May 14, 2011)

First time builder/poster, I have a question (or two)

On the L333 Page ( http://lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/blogs/experience/L333/L333 ) it states that the SM ( Single Mode ) is the most simple and for those on a budget (that's me, simple and on a budget) and has is always on, does this mean that the SM config doesn't have the ECO mode and runs at 100% all the time?

Does the SM Config have the reverse polarity protection and thermal protection?

Also (lets go for a third question). I do mainly commuting but some of it's on road/trails with no street lights so planned to have the two modes ECO for in-town and 100% when no street lights/cars around. which lens would be best, I was thinking the medium lens with XPG LED, or would a Elliptical LENS be good for this type of riding?

Clayton


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

spence77 said:


> On the L333 Page ( http://lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/blogs/experience/L333/L333 ) it states that the SM ( Single Mode ) is the most simple and has is always on, does this mean that the SM config doesn't have the ECO mode and runs at 100% all the time?


Thanks for asking 

Single mode means singe mode. It always runs on full as long as connected to a battery. 
If you need many modes, programmable modes, signals, electronic power switch, battery management etc you need to pick up the MC version.



spence77 said:


> Does the SM Config have the reverse polarity protection and thermal protection?


yes, it has both protections.



spence77 said:


> Also (lets go for a third question). I do mainly commuting but some of it's on road/trails with no street lights so planned to have the two modes ECO for in-town and 100% when no street lights/cars around. which lens would be best, I was thinking the medium lens with XPG LED, or would a Elliptical LENS be good for this type of riding?
> Clayton


Different people prefer different lighting. As for me I stayed with XPE HEW R5 at 1.1A with frosted narrow optic. You can see it (and compare) at this triples beamshot collection.


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## spence77 (May 14, 2011)

Hi quazzle, went to place an order for L333-MC-XPEH50-B but said that it's to place an order for production. And said to contact you about timeframe. can you estimate timeframe for producing said product. also are there any type B L333 with a shorter lead time. 

May be a dumb question but will a type B be able to run on 6V 2200mah NiMH battery ( I have two from old Halogen system that I want to reuse), plan to upgrade batteries later in the year. hopefully.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

spence77 said:


> Hi quazzle, went to place an order for L333-MC-XPEH50-B but said that it's to place an order for production. And said to contact you about timeframe. can you estimate timeframe for producing said product. also are there any type B L333 with a shorter lead time.
> 
> May be a dumb question but will a type B be able to run on 6V 2200mah NiMH battery ( I have two from old Halogen system that I want to reuse), plan to upgrade batteries later in the year. hopefully.


I'm out of stock of a small 0.2$ part which is used everywhere. So the production is suspended now (hopefully on 2 weeks). Regarding your question, yes, 6V is fine (the B regulation limit is 5V, but it still operates with some reduction in output till 3V)


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

some fresh pics of our new L333-based product (I was asked to add a lighter to see its size. Well, it's done now)


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## spence77 (May 14, 2011)

quazzle said:


> I'm out of stock of a small 0.2$ part which is used everywhere. So the production is suspended now (hopefully on 2 weeks). Regarding your question, yes, 6V is fine (the B regulation limit is 5V, but it still operates with some reduction in output till 3V)


well doesn't matter which I want, About to place my order and begin the wait for production to resume.

thanks for your help


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## spence77 (May 14, 2011)

i'm have trouble getting to lux-rc.com all other site seem to be ok. (ok now, think it was my browser)

do you have any singles in stock? how much is postage to australia? I might be interested in placing two orders to get a single now and triple when production resumes. if postage is not too much.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

spence77 said:


> i'm have trouble getting to lux-rc.com all other site seem to be ok. (ok now, think it was my browser)


it works fine from here. try now?


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## Yazzur (Jan 14, 2008)

quazzle said:


> it works fine from here. try now?


Quazzle:

I put in an order, but I can't see if it went through. The paypal went through but doesn't show a shipping address for me. I'd like to check and make sure you have all the information you need.

Thanks,

Garth


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

thanks, PM is sent.


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## spence77 (May 14, 2011)

How long has everyones deliveries from quazzle taken to arrive? I'm in Australia, anyone got time frames. Email telling me it was despatched on 29/May. Russian Post states Export on 29th (received at post office on 28th) so I assume it left Russia on the 30th (my time).

so thats been about 8 days.


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## matthewm (Mar 29, 2009)

Unfortunately it will be a long wait... Russian post is slow

I am in Australia as well, it took at least 2/3 weeks


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

depends on the direction. Russian post is very slow in case of import (delivery to Moscow) but it's pretty swift if we dispatch to any country (because we deliver the parcels using our own transport directly to the international mail hub and in this case the parcels leave Moscow in 1-2 days).

Shipping with a registered air mail normally takes 3 weeks to Australia and New Zealand, about 2 weeks to US/Canada and about 1 week to almost any European country.


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

I'm in the US and my Lux-RC shipment took about 15-18 days if I remember correctly.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Mine took 11 days to the uk..

Thanks Serge


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

the "shipping" delay may be also caused by the production schedule.

we're NOT a shop, we're a production laboratory. So we can't ship the same day.
Normally we dispatch the orders once a week on Saturdays. So if an order is placed on Monday, it will take additional 4-5 days for production/handling. Please read the agreement (before accepting it).


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## spence77 (May 14, 2011)

quazzle said:


> the "shipping" delay may be also caused by the production schedule.
> 
> we're NOT a shop, we're a production laboratory. So we can't ship the same day.
> Normally we dispatch the orders once a week on Saturdays. So if an order is placed on Monday, it will take additional 4-5 days for production/handling. Please read the agreement (before accepting it).


no complaints here about the production timeframe, I've looked at the russian mail tracking system and can see it was received by the mail system and left russia (I assume Экспорт = Export = Left the country) the next day so I was just after approx time before it arrives in Australia.

Thanks for all the info about timeframes, i'm patiently waiting now.


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## spence77 (May 14, 2011)

It's arrived today 2.5 weeks. quailty looks great and it's sooo small. pictures make it look at lot bigger than it really is. great work, can't wait to get it hooked up


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

just a notice that we are back and resumed the production. 
new orders/feedbacks are welcomed!


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

Quazzle, 

I've got (2) A series (1.55A) XP-G L333 engines in a housing from Matthewm. By the way, the housing is a work of art. When I first turned the light on, both the master and slave worked for about 5 min. I figured the problem was probably a loose wire as the second light engine went out just as I went over a bump on my test ride. I decided to take the light apart to see what I could find and I ended up making things worse. Between the two boards, I've snapped 3 of the pins off (clearly my fault). 

Can these pins be re-soldered back on to the board? Do you heat the board by touching the side?

If I can't fix the board, that's fine, I'll order two new boards and use those new connectors you've got on the site. 

By the way, I used the light a couple of times with just the one side working, and it was so freaking bright it's unbelievable. I showed the light to a few of my friends that had never seen anything brighter than about 250 lumens and they couldn't believe it.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

I can try to repair the boards if you send them back to me. And yes, the connectors are strongly recommended because direct soldering is not easy in case of L333


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Are you considering offering the new 139 lumen/watt XP-Es on a triple board?
It might finally give a 1000+ lumen narrow beam.

Incidentally, the XP-E HEW light I built up (The Jack-o-lantern) was used by Jack on the winning team at the 6 day, 500km Raid the North Extreme expedition adventure race in the mountains of BC.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

I need to make sure that those R5 XP-Es have the same die size as normal XP-E R4 (130 lumens per watt) because some while ago CREE already released "enhanced" XP-Es but the die size was closer to XP-G and they gave no benefit in the beam throw. 

By the way, I already have R4 (min 130lm/w) XP-Es in stock in both cool and neural colors. Yes, there's no mistake, the neutral XP-Es are also rated at 130 lumens per watt so they perform the same as neutral XP-Gs but provide a way more narrow beam.


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## keef2 (Sep 3, 2010)

Ok high folks. So I have collected 4 Lux-RC boards. I have 2x L332 and 2x L333 (masters with standby mode). I was intending on trying to double them up by putting them in Matt's Gili 6. How would people suggest is best to wire them, and whether to to keep like boards in pairs or mix them.

I was thinking of running the two L333s in parallel with a sync wire between them, and just toggling between modes using a momentary switch.

The L332s I was going to run in parallel, and use a high current external switch to toggle on/off and hence cycle between modes. Is it likely that the two L332 will stay in sync or is it worth putting one on a momentary switch to cycle it back. Alternatively is it worth doing the soldering mod posted previously?

Cheers,
Keef.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

quazzle said:


> I need to make sure that those R5 XP-Es have the same die size as normal XP-E R4 (130 lumens per watt) because some while ago CREE already released "enhanced" XP-Es but the die size was closer to XP-G and they gave no benefit in the beam throw.
> 
> By the way, I already have R4 (min 130lm/w) XP-Es in stock in both cool and neural colors. Yes, there's no mistake, the neutral XP-Es are also rated at 130 lumens per watt so they perform the same as neutral XP-Gs but provide a way more narrow beam.


Let us know as soon as you find out about the die size- I could use a new board for my 3X light with the 332.

It got killed at Wilderness Traverse this weekend. (24 hr adventure race) The tiny housing doesn't have proper strain relief and the cable got jammed up in my gear box at transition, pulling off a pin from the board. Not your fault Serge,but an excuse to upgrade once the R5 is out.

Luckily, I had 2 sled lights with me too. We used one for the all-night paddle in the rain no problem.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

keef2 said:


> Ok high folks. So I have collected 4 Lux-RC boards. I have 2x L332 and 2x L333 (masters with standby mode). I was intending on trying to double them up by putting them in Matt's Gili 6. How would people suggest is best to wire them, and whether to to keep like boards in pairs or mix them.


missed your question somehow, anyway it's better late than never.

L332 also existed in two configurations - single mode and master, which ones you have?

As for the L333's, the problem that "standby" version needs a mom button to operate. So you can't use two L333 masters in one GILI housing as is.

I think all possible setups in your case will need some hacking job over the boards. I can guide you if you have good soldering skills.

If I were you I'd convert the old L332 boards to "slaves", so each GILI would be built from L333 and L332 (converted to slave).


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## cobraklein (Mar 14, 2011)

any build instructions for the slave-master l333 setup


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

the recommended wiring diagram










the build steps with some pics:

https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/danger-beast-may-burn-your-eyes-literally-699758.html


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

you can see 5 the most common L333 configs compared with many commercial well-known brands in this just released beamshot series at FONAREVKA.RU

(LUX-RC FL33 flashlight)


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## keef2 (Sep 3, 2010)

Just out of interest, what is the 1k resistor doing? Is it essential?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

it protects the controller port from possible burnout if the button clicked when the battery is connected in reverse polarity. It's recommended for L333 and L334 boards. L335 doesn't it (the future version)


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

Hi Quazzle, are data sheets available for the 333 and 334 series boards?

I'm planning to build some more. Here is the latest housing details:


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Mark2c said:


> Hi Quazzle, are data sheets available for the 333 and 334 series boards?


here you are: Lux-RC Labs - Products - Light Engines - Datasheets - Datasheets


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

I've added a bar mount groove.

Should be the smallest and lightest 1000 lumen light available anywhere.

Another big plus is being able to switch directly between high & low without having to go through flashing/off etc.

The STP file lets you get your own ones built by anyone with a cnc machining shop. PM me with your email address if you want it.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

quazzle said:


> here you are: Lux-RC Labs - Products - Light Engines - Datasheets - Datasheets


Looking at the 333 XPE-Amber A3 Master & Slave for an application. The Boards say 750 mA but the Ambers won't take over 500 according to CREEs datsheet. Is that a typo from copying test from the red page? Do the boards come limited to 500 mA maximum, or can you accidentally hit the LEDs with 50% more current than their maximum going through the power levels?


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## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

Mark2c are you selling the housings??


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

BrianMc said:


> Looking at the 333 XPE-Amber A3 Master & Slave for an application. The Boards say 750 mA but the Ambers won't take over 500 according to CREEs datsheet. Is that a typo from copying test from the red page? Do the boards come limited to 500 mA maximum, or can you accidentally hit the LEDs with 50% more current than their maximum going through the power levels?


yes, we can limit the current at 500ma, no problem.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Mark2c said:


> Should be the smallest and lightest 1000 lumen light available anywhere.


Don't say that.... Now I'm going to have to build a 3 up microlight


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

biketuna said:


> Mark2c are you selling the housings??


No, but I'm looking at getting a run made if I can find somewhere that can do small runs at a low enough price...


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

quazzle said:


> here you are: Lux-RC Labs - Products - Light Engines - Datasheets - Datasheets


Thanks Q. Is there any chance of updating them with the later model user interface and additional features (ie low voltage protection etc).

Thanks and cheers!


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Mark2c said:


> Thanks Q. Is there any chance of updating them with the later model user interface and additional features (ie low voltage protection etc).
> Thanks and cheers!


Yes of course. The next version is L334 which will incorporate all features you have listed


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

hi quazzle when will you release the L334 and your 7up board??


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

7UP is postponed. It seems there's interest to it (except you of course  )

So my plan is:

L334 - probably Dec 2011, cannot say more
12UP - the same schedule.
4UP low voltage (1 cell) - Q1 2012


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

Quazzle,

I want to thank you very much for fixing my Gili light based on matthewm's housing. I can't believe how fast the light got back to me. Shipped from Moscow on 10/03/ and received in the U.S. on 10/12.

I'm so much happier with the upgraded light. The light I shipped back had 2 broken (beyond repair) XP-G 3 up LEDs running at 1550 ma with narrow optics. When I saw your posting of the beam shot with a - narrow clear optic (507) with XP-Es R3 driven at 1.5amp for the best throw and a wide elliptical optic (510) with XP-Gs R5 driven at 1.5smps for the low beam, I thought, "That's what I want."

I have to say the the new set up is much preferred to having both sides running narrow optic XP-Gs .

This new setup is incredible.:thumbsup:

As I've read through these threads, I kept thinking "I want to create a beam that will throw as far as possible." It seemed everyone was posting beam shots showing how far their light could throw.

For me, this wide & narrow setup is the holy grail. I never would have believed that I would want to waste lumens on lighting up the side of the trail, but boy was I wrong. It's a whole different feeling riding when you have both a thrower (the XP-E narrow) and a wide "sprayer" (XP-G with elliptical optic).

I ride in an area where there are trails through the forest that open up into grasslands, that morph into paved suburban trails that go right through the center of towns. In other words, everything.

What I was completely ignorant of was the advantage of the wide elliptical beam. We have an over population of deer where I ride and my biggest fear is getting hit. I noticed with the new elliptical beam, the deer are nowhere to be found. The elliptical spreads the light out over such a large area that I'm easily seen from any angle and it seems to keep them away.

Riding with the narrow, they would be right at the edge of the darkness and would freeze when the concentrated narrow beam of light hit them.

From my perspective riding through the forest, it's much safer. I have the narrow for distance, but now I can see 10 feet to 20 feet off the side of the trail. No more tunnel effect.

I did go with the XP-E running at 1550 ma, which you warned me was not approved by Cree. So far, no problems.

I will say that the matthewm Gili housing is not designed for 32 watts of power when you're standing still. If you're moving, no problem. I tested the light at half power (16 watts), standing still, indoors at 80 F and it topped out at 140 F. Riding 10-12 mph with it at 32 watts it's probably around 120 F to 130 F on a 70 F day.

Oh, and if you ever want to incapacitate someone, just switch on the 10 Hz stobe at 32 watts and this light will either bring you to your knees or send you to the mental ward. Really. No kidding. 

"That strobe is mental, I've never seen anything like it - Golddigger"

"it's а risky strobe, don't misuse it, especially in public. I'm serious 
You can read more about 10Hz strobe here (the last section) -> Strobe light - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia - Quazzle"

One complaint / suggestion:

I really need more options for light output between 50% and 100%. 
As it stands now I can program the Low (Eco mode) to anything between 0% and 50%. 
Aside from the stobes, high has just one option, 100%.

On my last ride I switched between 50% and 100%. On the trails its almost like driving a car with low beam and high beam. The beam pattern doesn't change, but light just gets super intense white and spreads and throws further.

I really need to a middle ground between 50% and 100%.

Either let the low mode go up to 75% or let the high mode be programmable between 75% and 100%

There's just too big of a hole between the 50% and 100%.

Thanks again Quazzle, the light's fantastic.


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## Guest (Oct 16, 2011)

what happened to your housing? How come you had to send it back?


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

nattyboh74 said:


> what happened to your housing? How come you had to send it back?


The housing was perfect. The lights were perfect. I was the idiot that screwed up.

I love to take stuff apart. This time, I did so much damage to the L333s that they couldn't be saved. I ripped the connector pins right off the boards when attempting to remove the L333s from the housing.

Anyone contemplating getting one of the 3 Up lights, please also order this:


*You need one BA-CONN-KIT per board. *

BA-CONN-KIT
Super-flexible Silicone Wires with *Pre-soldered Connectors* (For All Engine Types). Includes: 2 Power Wires (Black and Red), 2 Signal Wires

The connector pins on these units are very small. Really small. Did I mention that they're small?

With the connector kit, all you do is slide the connectors over the pins. The appropriate wires are already soldered to the connectors. There's not a lot of room inside the housing, so the small wires on this kit are perfect. Unless you're really good with a soldering iron and you've got a good soldering station with adjustable heat ranges, it will be tough to solder this yourself.

If your soldering iron is too hot, you'll end up desoldering the pins from the boards.

There's a big difference between just solderiing a couple of wires together (easy) and soldering to these pins (hard). Heat the pins up too much and you're toast. Board won't work, no light.

On most computer monitors, the board shown below is larger than the actual size. Can you find the 4 gold pins on the L333 MC below? Not easy is it? To put this in perspective, the pins are about the size of a grain of rice.

Quazzle did a nice tutorial on assembling the housing I sent him in post #37


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

ThinkBike said:


> One complaint / suggestion:
> I really need more options for light output between 50% and 100%. ...


it's fixed in 2 minutes in the lab (the firmware defaults change)

I noticed that too whan I was rinding with GILI/L333. I'll change the default for the future runs, I think 70% should be fine (you'd hardly tell a huge dirrerence between 70% and 100%, both modes are damn bright and in 80% cases are overkill)


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## Guest (Oct 16, 2011)

We can adjust the Eco modeS? or is that something that you can do?

And yeah ThinkBike, I did go with that wiring kit.But make sure if someone does Opt for that kit, they need ONE per module. So in this housing's case, you need two kits total.


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

nattyboh74 said:


> We can adjust the Eco modeS? or is that something that you can do?
> 
> And yeah ThinkBike, I did go with that wiring kit.But make sure if someone does Opt for that kit, they need ONE per module. So in this housing's case, you need two kits total.


Just edited my previous post to reflect one wiring kit per board. Thanks for pointing that out.


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

nattyboh74 said:


> We can adjust the Eco modeS? or is that something that you can do?
> 
> And yeah ThinkBike, I did go with that wiring kit.But make sure if someone does Opt for that kit, they need ONE per module. So in this housing's case, you need two kits total.


Are you referring to the current set up of the user being able to adjust 0% to 50% in Eco mode or are you referring to Quazzle saying that he could increase the higher end of Eco mode to 70% in the lab?


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## Guest (Oct 16, 2011)

I was referring to Quazzle saying that it can be changed. Im guessing ( after reading it again ) that he meant he can adjust it before he ships it out... ( once again to whatever you wanted ) Being it is a firmware change, I bet we couldnt do that ourselves. Oh well. I would have liked mine to be ehh 65% and 100%. but its cool. I'll see where mine are at and go from there. 50% might be enough, might not be. 

But with that 8,4 Ah battery, I'll be able to run 1000ma for almost 3 hours. So thats good


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

nattyboh74 said:


> I was referring to Quazzle saying that it can be changed. Im guessing ( after reading it again ) that he meant he can adjust it before he ships it out... ( once again to whatever you wanted ) Being it is a firmware change, I bet we couldnt do that ourselves. Oh well. I would have liked mine to be ehh 65% and 100%. but its cool. I'll see where mine are at and go from there. 50% might be enough, might not be.
> 
> But with that 8,4 Ah battery, I'll be able to run 1000ma for almost 3 hours. So thats good


B series L333 are 1100 ma each. 2200 ma at 9.9 vf, 7.2v input, 92% efficiency and a 8.7 Ah should give you a run time of 2 hrs 38 min on high. I think you'll be surprised how bright this is.


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## Guest (Oct 16, 2011)

Hmm here we go again.. haha

I thought we werent supposed to double the mA just the Vf... well add the both Vf's but only use 1100ma.


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

nattyboh74 said:


> Hmm here we go again.. haha
> 
> I thought we werent supposed to double the mA just the Vf... well add the both Vf's but only use 1100ma.


Voltage and Current for components in Parallel

Voltages are the same across all components connected in parallel.

Currents (Amps) add up for components connected in parallel.

In this circuit the battery, resistor and lamp all have 6V across them.

The 30mA current through the resistor and the 60mA current through the lamp add up to the 90mA current through the battery.


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## joebreez (Sep 10, 2005)

Just finished a rebuild on one of my existing lights using the L33 setup in a Slave and Master setup.
I ordered an XPG and XPE mix to get maximum throw and yet maximize light output.
Upon receiving the units I was shocked at how small they are and wondered how on earth I was going to actually assemble these, I neglected to buy the wiring kits pre soldered. Thank Quazzle for posting a DigiKey link for the .5mm connectors.
I had to use a serious magnifier to see these connectors at all, think of something about half the size of a grain of rice! That went well but during assembly I broke a post on the slave where the power wire goes in-note to self; don't force anything together on these:nono: Luckily I did manage to do a work around and it seems fine so far.Micro soldering skill needed:madman:
Upon final wiring I booted it up and was pleasantly surprised at the light output and the ease of menus with a momentary switch.
I do love the fact that everything is self contained so there is no need for an external driver.The Master-Slave setup is easy as pie to set up as well and in ECO mode you get two light settings that can be adjusted easily.I'm planning on running a 7.4 5200mah Li-ion which should get me through a decent night ride.I'm using a Carclo 10507 triple lens.
Comparing the beam patterns and light output to my other lights Quazzle has produced a real winner. Way better output and pattern than my quad XPG with a 35mm lens in an old Marwi light and the same for my old P7 head unit.
Even running the light unit at about 50% it still has a deeper throw than my other lights.
I'll try and post some build and beam shots of the unit but Quazzle has outdone himself. This is the easiest light I've built so far:thumbsup:


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Thank you Joebreez!


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

L333 power options:

Series A = DC 6.0V-9.9V 1550 mA
Series B = DC 4.5V-9.9V 1100 mA
Series C = DC 2.8V-9.9V 750 mA

Quazzle, 

In a dual L333 build, using different Series engines, how is current controlled?

Would the higher power unit fall out of regulation first?

In a Master/Slave configuration does the higher power unit fall out of regulation first?

Does it matter if the higher power unit is the Master or the Slave?

Are the different series independent of each other with respect to falling out of regulation?

What happens when you mix single mode series?


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## DIYtailight (Sep 14, 2009)

quazzle said:


> guess what it is?


Out of curiosity, have these become available or are you only using them in the FL light?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

ThinkBike said:


> In a dual L333 build, using different Series engines, how is current controlled?


The LE's should be wired in parallel. In this case each module operates as it has its own supply.



ThinkBike said:


> Would the higher power unit fall out of regulation first?


If the voltage drops below the regulation threshold - yes. There's a simple rule of thumb - each LE cannot consume more than 2.5 amps. In this sense the L333 is always "regulated", becase if the voltage drops below P/2.5 (where P is the max power, i.e. 7, 11 or 16 watts), the LE switches to input current regulation. Normally the voltage drop caused by the battery discharging is about 15-20% so the wattage (and thus the luminous output) also drops by 15-20% even if the LE runs below the full regulation threshold.

If you're using two LiIon's in series (7.4V nominal), all L333 versions are fully regulated in all range from 8.4V (fully charged) till 6.2V.



ThinkBike said:


> In a Master/Slave configuration does the higher power unit fall out of regulation first?


there's no difference between Master Slave or Single mode in terms of the regulation logic. Again even of you're running the modules at low voltage, the output drop normally is less than 20%, so you hardly can notice that.



ThinkBike said:


> Does it matter if the higher power unit is the Master or the Slave?


no difference.



ThinkBike said:


> Are the different series independent of each other with respect to falling out of regulation?


yes



ThinkBike said:


> What happens when you mix single mode series?


single mode is always ON so you cannot control it with a mom button.

----------------

Again, there's no tragedy if L333 "falls out of regulation". In fact it's always regulated but the battery protection limits the maximum current drain of each board at 2.5amp. lygte-info.dk made an independed runtime measurements in both "regulated (output current regulation)" and "not regulated (running at max 2.5A input current)" modes, see the difference:










see all review at Review of Lux-RC FL33


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

hi quazzle,

any news on the XP-E R4 and R5 versions (not the HEW LED's)?
Are these Leds already available?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

it's not possible to order such bins from CREE now, R3 is the highest possible.


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

ohh,
i thought they were already on the market!


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Hi Quazzle, I have a L333 board that a customer accidentally plugged a 14.8v battery into..one of the leds is dead, but when plugging in a 7.4v the little red led blinksa few times and the other two xp-g's light up and seem fine.
Is it possible for my self to remove the dead xp-g and put another on? If so what's the best approach?

Any news on the 334?

Cheers
J


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

L334 has been just released. I'm finishing the datasheet now. It comes with all new features and even more (fully-automatic battery protection, battery stretch function, programmable temp. protection, alot of new UI opions/modes). You can see the UI diagram posted in my blog










(sorry for russian, the English version is being written now)


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

Basically there are two modes: simple and flexible.
Simple is the top part of the diagram - 1% and 100%

Flexible - the bottom part.
You get 100% and a programmable low (from 1% to 100%) and a bunch of strobe modes accessible with a 4sec press in the 100% mode.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Thanks Zemike!

english version:


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

Deleted


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## borrower (Feb 26, 2011)

Question about the older L333: with an A-series (1550mA), the recommended voltage is 6.0 to 9.9v. I'm usually running it on 7.4v nominal, but I might occasionally want to run it on my 3.6v battery packs. Two questions: is there anything actually bad about this, and what difference in brightness/runtime can I expect?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

L333 has been replaced by new 334 board (2.5V to 9.0V),for more details please click this link


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## borrower (Feb 26, 2011)

Hi Quazzle, I will probably be tempted by a 334 in the future, but the question above is for an L333 that I already own. Thanks in advance.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

I lost the email you sent me, which one is the highest output again? It had an extra letter, right?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

A type.

----------
PS. Just received new Samsung 3535 leds, they're brightest neutral color (5000K) leds ever exist, up to 1300 calculated lumens from a 15 watts triple (1.5A forward current). Already added to the list


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> A type.
> 
> ----------
> PS. Just received new Samsung 3535 leds, they're brightest neutral color (5000K) leds ever exist, up to 1300 calculated lumens from a 15 watts triple (1.5A forward current). Already added to the list


Any chance of adding a beam shot please Quazzle?
I've read else where its pretty much like a xp-g..

Datasheet for Samsung 3535


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

Ditto the request on the samsung beam shots.

What are your general impressions of the samsung?

Is the beam narrower or wider than xp-g/


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

quazzle said:


> A type.
> 
> ----------
> PS. Just received new Samsung 3535 leds, they're brightest neutral color (5000K) leds ever exist, up to 1300 calculated lumens from a 15 watts triple (1.5A forward current). Already added to the list


Sweet. So which a type is the brightest version? Too difficult to look with the iPad.


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## rschultz101 (Oct 5, 2009)

what bin / ranking did you use quazzle ?

samsung 6.1 C/W 130lm/w +
cree XT-E 5C/W 130lm/w R5 , 148lm/w S2 

the samsung N1 bin/ranking be 150lm/w +

samsung makes good quality products.
and looking at the LED layout, looks well designed.
don't have any tested, but think, we have a winner here!

note: at 1.5A current , the PCB is very important, for the heat flow.
other notes, 
the XT-E is binned at 85C, while samsung you got to derate to 92%, to compare.
but the samsung die is flat, as such , preferred .


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

at 1.5A the Samsung is ~87lm/W, lower than the XP-G R5 (91?), don't know about the XT-E. The 150lm value for the Samsung is the minimum flux at 350mA, times that by 3.1ish to get flux at 1.5A.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

I'm going to test 3535 H3R8K1 (130-140 lumens @350mA)
This led cannot be campared with CREE R5/S2 just because these leds are NEUTRAL (5000K).
It makes big difference becase CREE's best outdoor bin is still R4.

I just finished with prototyping (together with Nichia 219). The beam is more narrow on sure than XPG's. It's somewhat in the middle between XPG and XPE. Also, the color tint is a bit yellowish (R8 is not the best color tint). 

As for me Nichia 219's provide the best neutral color illumination with 10507. 

I'll update with beamshots/shpere measurements soon


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

quazzle said:


> I just finished with prototyping (together with Nichia 219). The beam is more narrow on sure than XPG's. It's somewhat in the middle between XPG and XPE. Also, the color tint is a bit yellowish (R8 is not the best color tint).
> 
> As for me Nichia 219's provide the best neutral color illumination with 10507.
> 
> I'll update with beamshots/shpere measurements soon


Are these the Nichia with the high CRI? Can your 334 engines power these up to 1.5A with a single 18650 LiIon? Is the beam also between XPG and XPE?

If your answers are yes - let me be the first to order one!


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

mrradlos said:


> Are these the Nichia with the high CRI? Can your 334 engines power these up to 1.5A with a single 18650 LiIon? Is the beam also between XPG and XPE?
> 
> If your answers are yes - let me be the first to order one!


Add me to the list- keen to see Beamshots for these and for XT-E


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

I've just released new 334 board (you can learm more about it here). It's still small (20mm) but it's a way more complex and comes with many new functions (most are added for MTB use)

of course making a larger board even easier but which "good" optics you mean? I do think CARCLO is the best for MTB (somewhat in the middle between flood and throw)


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Very impressive Quazzle. I think I am going to have to purchase a few and make some housings to suit.

.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

thanks brad, you're welcome!

PS. There's a dedicated thread here -> http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/334-773986.html


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