# 130 mm hub in 120 mm frame question



## mwb (Dec 4, 2007)

Picking up a steel single speed/track frame with 120 mm rear end but want to run 130 mm hubs. I've read about cold setting a steel frame to widen the rear end but wanted some opinions. 

Possible?

Advisable?

Issues?

The main reason I'm interested is because I already have a number of 130 mm hubs/wheels lying around. I'd rather use what I have access to rather than build a 120 mm wheel. 

Thanks......


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## Walt (Jan 23, 2004)

*Good question*

Sheldon Brown has a how-to on his site somewhere about cold-setting stays. I've never tried it myself - it's easier for me to just remove the brake bridge and chainstay bridge, re-space, and reinstall the bridges to hold everything in place.

I'd say, personally, that if the frame is nice, I would just build up a 120mm hub. If the frame is crap, go nuts with it, because if you completely screw something up, it's not that big of a deal.

Basically, is the frame worth more to you than a new wheel would cost?

-W



mwb said:


> Picking up a steel single speed/track frame with 120 mm rear end but want to run 130 mm hubs. I've read about cold setting a steel frame to widen the rear end but wanted some opinions.
> 
> Possible?
> 
> ...


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

bust build a real track wheel. remember that a fixed wheel is laced just like a hub brake wheel. see: http://www.pvdwiki.com/index.php?title=Disc_wheel_Lacing


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## mwb (Dec 4, 2007)

Walt said:


> Basically, is the frame worth more to you than a new wheel would cost?
> 
> -W


Well, the frame is certainly worth more than a new wheel would be. So from a strictly $$$ standpoint a 120 mm wheel would be the way to go.

I was asking mainly because I'd rather run a set of my road wheels for a number of reasons. I have a spare set of wheels. I like cassettes more than freewheels. I have a ton of cogs.

I was merely curious because if it posed no problems it's certainly cheaper than building a new wheel.

If it has the potential to trash the frame it's certainly not worth it though. Just curious if it's a viable option.

Any idea, if it's done properly, how the frame would take it? I know that's a tough question to answer due to the variables. But is 10 mm too big a move?

I've read Sheldon Brown's blurb on it and that was the method I was going to try.

I've sandwiched a few hubs into frames years ago. But the difference wasn't as big a jump as 120 to 130.


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## mwb (Dec 4, 2007)

pvd said:


> bust build a real track wheel. remember that a fixed wheel is laced just like a hub brake wheel. see: http://www.pvdwiki.com/index.php?title=Disc_wheel_Lacing


I'm not running it fixed gear so I'm not hemmed in by lacing patterns necessarily.

But if I build a 120 wheel I will lace it for fixed and run a fix/free hub. Have no interest in running fixed. But if I'm building a wheel I'll build one just in case I want to try fixed. Might as well cover the bases if I'm building a new wheel.

Thanks....MWB


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## mwb (Dec 4, 2007)

Walt said:


> Sheldon Brown has a how-to on his site somewhere about cold-setting stays. I've never tried it myself - it's easier for me to just remove the brake bridge and chainstay bridge, re-space, and reinstall the bridges to hold everything in place.
> 
> -W


I should have thought to ask this in my last post. How do you re-space the stays once the bridges are removed? Do you remove the stays from the bb/st and re-attach them? Or do you heat them and nudge them apart?

Thanks.....MWB


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

Bending them apart is the usual way.


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