# My 20.5 lb / 9.3 kg FS 29er (Specialized Epic)



## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

*My 19.95 lb / 9.05 kg FS 29er (Specialized Epic)*

LATEST WEIGHT: 19.95 lb / 9.05 kg

(I can't edit the main thread title.)

I've posted my bike briefly a couple of times, but I may be getting to the "minimal effective weight". Wanted to give more details, and hopefully solicit some last ideas.

I started with a 2011 Specialized S-Works Epic 29er (size Large), which was stock at 24.03 lbs. It gradually lowered with changes along the way:

-Change to Easton seatpost, bars, and carbon saddle - 23.13 lbs
-Change to Schwalbe Rocket Ron tires and XTR cassette, shifters & brakes, 1X10 setup (32T Widgit), carbon rotors - 21.32 lbs
-Change to MT8 brakes - 20.97 lbs
-Change to spiderless Wolftooth chainring - 20.90 lbs
-Change to Furious Fred tires - 20.57 lbs

Some of the timing for component swaps is from memory, and the last digit on my scale is debatable. 

Here's the current list of components that differ from stock (my digital weights where available):

Easton EC90 seatpost (200g)
Easton EC90 SL bar (139g)
Crank Bros Cobalt 11 stem, 90mm (117g)
Crank Bros Eggbeater 11 pedals
Wolftooth spiderless 32T chainring
XTR M986 RD, clutched (214g)
XTR M980 front shifter
XTR 11-36 cassette, with lockring (273g)
Magura MT8 brakes
eBay Carbon saddle (115g)
Kettle SICC rotors, 160mm, 140mm (55g, 47g)
12 X Ti rotor bolts (14g)
Schwalbe Furious Fred tires, tubeless (378g, 384g)
DT Swiss RWS Ti Skewer (43g)
KMC X10 SL DLC chain
ESI Chunky grips (56g)
Cane Creek 40 series tall cover (sanded down) with AER cap, ALU bolt

As mentioned, I'm open to ideas, and while I don't want to be "the guy that asks for ideas, but puts out a list of stuff he won't change", I do have a couple:

-Yes, I realize I'd save another ~70g with an XX cassette, but I've already ranted on that, no thanks!
-I like the ESI chunky grips
-I could do some borderline stuff like remove the unused bottle cage screws, and valve covers, but it doesn't really move the needle enough.


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## Devincicx (Nov 20, 2011)

nice bike

unless you really want to keep that seatpost, you could save a nice 50g going to anything scandium like KCNC or others. There is those climax carbon posts on ebay too, apparently sub 150g...

What are you using for a top cap and bolt? Maybe you could save a little there.

How do you like those egg beater 11? I just go some today after my egg 3 were shot at the first round of Canada Cup in the mud. Are they durable enough? Im thinking of using them only for races.. (don't want to highjack your thread, just a little comment)


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Which Ebay carbon saddle did you get? I'm want to try one out of sheer curiosity.

Speaking of posts...Woodman has a 125gr Carbo El. I ran one for a couple months before getting the CG-R. Not sure of the durability though.


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## robgall13 (Nov 30, 2012)

Stem is heavy, UNO stem with Ti bolts will save over 20g. Climax or KCNC seatpost will save 50g. The Roval hubs are just DT Swiss 240s right? Some tune hubs will save weight, possibly some LB rims too but I'm not sure of Roval rim weight. Saevid saddle will save another 30g or so, or you could use a Berk combo which are very light. Sanding the frame will also save weight.


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## patineto (Oct 28, 2005)

Take the stickers from the rims, not much but it helps


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Thx for the thoughtful replies. Starts to get difficult to to reduce more weight after a while. I looked at an MCFK combo of seatpost, saddle, bar, and stem, and could save almost half a pound, but it would be something like $1400 if you can believe it!



Devincicx said:


> nice bike
> 
> unless you really want to keep that seatpost, you could save a nice 50g going to anything scandium like KCNC or others. There is those climax carbon posts on ebay too, apparently sub 150g...
> 
> ...


Thx. I'm up for various seatposts, so I'll have a look. I'm using a Cane Creek AER top cap with ALU screw - sorry, should have listed it. Done now.

I really like the eggbeaters. Running them for 2 seasons now, but I do purely XC. I'm 185 lbs kitted up.



RS VR6 said:


> Which Ebay carbon saddle did you get? I'm want to try one out of sheer curiosity.
> 
> Speaking of posts...Woodman has a 125gr Carbo El. I ran one for a couple months before getting the CG-R. Not sure of the durability though.


Thx for the tip, I'll check into it.

I got this seatpost, and wrote a review:
http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenies/review-ebay-full-carbon-saddle-sd-005-a-826723.html



robgall13 said:


> Stem is heavy, UNO stem with Ti bolts will save over 20g. Climax or KCNC seatpost will save 50g. The Roval hubs are just DT Swiss 240s right? Some tune hubs will save weight, possibly some LB rims too but I'm not sure of Roval rim weight. Saevid saddle will save another 30g or so, or you could use a Berk combo which are very light. Sanding the frame will also save weight.


Great ideas thx. Don't know much about UNO, but will investigate. Yep, the hubs are DT Swiss, and the hoops are fairly light carbon, but maybe I should consider a custom build.

Up for trying another saddle for the right price. So far the eBay one has overachieved in $ to gram savings.

Smart idea re sanding the frame, but it destroys the resale value, so I'll hold off.



patineto said:


> Take the stickers from the rims, not much but it helps


Ha, that's a new one.


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## BDozer (Mar 25, 2012)

What fork do you have? Weight?

German A kilo is one of the lightest available - 1212 grams from their website.
german:A.® - lightweight bike engineering since 1995


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## MOJO K (Jan 26, 2007)

I wonder what the Specialized molded rubber chain stay protector weighs? You could maybe shorten the front brake hose a bit. 

Once my tires are sealed up nicely, I go in and remove any sealant that's left. I suppose it makes sense depending on what trail hazards you face.

That's all I got...Nice ride you have there.


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## Devincicx (Nov 20, 2011)

as funny as it sounds, removing my stans crest stickers saved 11g of rotating mass.


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## ginsu2k (Jul 28, 2006)

removing wheel stickers, and all stickers in general is great IMHO, not only for weight, but makes the bike look better.

also, you haven't mentioned rim strips, but i've switched to running gorilla tape which saved a lot of rotating weight over my previous strips.

that XTR long cage is overkill on a 1x setup, i believe you can get away with a short cage, but definitely a mid cage. you'll get better shifting too. also, you may be running more chain links than needed, as well.

somebody else mentioned this, but yeah, that chainstay protector could be dropped completely. it looks like overkill to me. i would suggest innertube wrap (cheap but a little heavy) or you could get a piece of adhesive carbon, kevlar or clear 'helicopter blade' tape (they sell these at REI, and also for ipod screen protectors at other stores).

you could also drop some decent weight by getting lighter shift housing since you run full housing, there are lots of options out there for that.

you can drop the brain shock and get something significantly lighter. at least, on most bikes this is easy, not sure how integrated that shock is with your bike.

ok, one last one, you can shave a ton of weight by sanding down the paint on your frame. with carbon this works really great because you don't have to worry about corrosion (just be sure to wear masks, don't breath carbon dust). if you don't like the matte carbon look, you can do a light spray of clearcoat and it will look great. try this out with your ebay saddle first, you'll be surprised how easy it is and how good it looks.


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## plantdude (Dec 30, 2007)

Devincicx said:


> as funny as it sounds, removing my stans crest stickers saved 11g of rotating mass.


Have a hard time believing the stickers weigh 11g. Not too much of a WW myself, but if I can remove 11g from my wheels that is a no-brainer.


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## Devincicx (Nov 20, 2011)

they weighted 11g

I have two sets of crest, the other one was weighting only 6g


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## Devincicx (Nov 20, 2011)

Also for chainstay protector, people seem to forget about it, but wraping the chainstay with some cork road handlebar tape is very light and effective, my protector weights 15g.

I suggest you do not sand the frame down. I did a sanding project on a 26in rocky mountain vertex, white paint. It was a freaking pita, it was long, it was ****, it was a mess.

Yes, it saved weight, but it was way too long of a job, and too much mess. Even carbolift didn't get the job done right.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

slice every third or fourth knob off the side of the tire. bike won't miss them


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

ginsu2k said:


> removing wheel stickers, and all stickers in general is great IMHO, not only for weight, but makes the bike look better.
> 
> also, you haven't mentioned rim strips, but i've switched to running gorilla tape which saved a lot of rotating weight over my previous strips.
> 
> ...


Great idea re the RD. Didn't think about mid-cage or smaller, and I'd be able to lose a few links at the same time, thx. I'll weigh the chainstay protector, as that could be an easy one.



Devincicx said:


> Also for chainstay protector, people seem to forget about it, but wraping the chainstay with some cork road handlebar tape is very light and effective, my protector weights 15g.
> 
> I suggest you do not sand the frame down. I did a sanding project on a 26in rocky mountain vertex, white paint. It was a freaking pita, it was long, it was ****, it was a mess.
> 
> Yes, it saved weight, but it was way too long of a job, and too much mess. Even carbolift didn't get the job done right.


I mentioned it earlier, while a couple of people recommended sanding the paint off, it kills the resale value of the frame. ("Yeah, I swear, it was, er I mean is a Specialized Epic frame!") I suspect a similar issue with the stickers, although I like the idea.



127.0.0.1 said:


> slice every third or fourth knob off the side of the tire. bike won't miss them


Realize you're joking, but if you've ever looked at the tread pattern on the FFs, it looks like that's already been done!


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

MOJO K said:


> I wonder what the Specialized molded rubber chain stay protector weighs? You could maybe shorten the front brake hose a bit.
> 
> Once my tires are sealed up nicely, I go in and remove any sealant that's left. I suppose it makes sense depending on what trail hazards you face.
> 
> That's all I got...Nice ride you have there.


Thx very much. I will have a look at the protector shortly, and you're right, I could probably shorten the front hose - good catch.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

BDozer said:


> What fork do you have? Weight?
> 
> German A kilo is one of the lightest available - 1212 grams from their website.
> german:A.® - lightweight bike engineering since 1995


BDozer - I have the stock Reba shock with brain. Funny, when I first got the bike in 2012 I thought it was a gimmick, and almost swapped the fork right away. Have to admit now, it works as advertised, to my surprise. Can't find a weight on it, but it's a good place to look. Not sure if I could do without the brain now tho.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

3M has this spray on clear bra for cars...and you can peel it right off.

I was thinking about doing China carbon and spraying the chain stay and lower portion of the down tube. Just mask and spray. You can peel it off anytime.

This stuff will probably have a million uses.

3M Paint Defender Combo 90000 90200 Clear Spray Film Masking Tape Plastic | eBay


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

I saw that 3M stuff on TV recently, great idea.

Also, with the single chainring and clutched derailleur, I don't hear chain slap anymore, and while the chain may still hit, the thinner 3M stuff might be plenty.


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## WR304 (Jul 9, 2004)

The reason the 2011 Specialized S-Works Epic 29er came with a Rock Shox Reba 29" fork was because Rock Shox didn't release a Sid fork in 29" until the following year.

The 29" Sid fork was a lot lighter than the 29" Reba fork, saving around 200g.

http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/10/27...hox-sid-29er-unboxed-weighed-and-first-rides/

A 2013 Rock Shox Sid 29 brain fork with carbon steerer and 15mm thru axle lowers weighs 1452g.

http://fotos.mtb-news.de/p/1268860

http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/2012-sid-29-fork-changing-lowers-821602.html#post9948186

You can buy the brain cartridge for a Rock Shox Sid 29 fork seperately from Specialized and retrofit it to a standard Rock Shox Sid 29 fork. If you're going to do that get the 15mm thru axle lowers as it improves the bike's handling over 9mm QR lowers.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Hey, thx WR304 - glad to get your input here.

Fork may be the next upgrade.


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## redmr2_man (Jun 10, 2008)

the newest sid's ride very, very well too.

Your bike is very nice, good thought into the build. Bet it rips! congrats


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## russya (May 3, 2007)

I bought the token carbon seatpost shown in this thread by the infamous nino for my epic.

http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenies/new-token-carbon-seatposts-574100.html

I used a ebay carbon saddle on it as well. It's been very durable. I replaced it with a crank bros cobalt 11 seatpost to get some set back and the crank brothers carbon broke in a year with no wrecks, while that token, which is much cheaper and lighter has held up to a few spills and the carbon saddle breaking. So in my experience it's a very durable super lightweight post.


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## BDozer (Mar 25, 2012)

Fork, seatpost, wheel stickers and chain protector get you to nearly 1lb (437ish g) weight loss...that's pretty amazing from an already great build!

Sub 9kg has a nice ring to it, doesn't it?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

phlegm said:


> I saw that 3M stuff on TV recently, great idea.
> 
> Also, with the single chainring and clutched derailleur, I don't hear chain slap anymore, and while the chain may still hit, the thinner 3M stuff might be plenty.


I'm also running a 1x10. I get slap when I'm in the smaller cogs.

Lol...I can spray the entire bike.


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## iperov (Sep 9, 2012)

nice bike for museum.
Front furious cannot handle even light sand on asphalt.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

I finally had a chance to weight the stock chainstay protector, and it came to 43g surprisingly, and given that I typically target 50g as a minimum weight savings, this has great potential. I have some 3M film that I'll swap for it (the chainstay also has a factory film strip there too, oddly enough), and I'll update the grammage difference.

Thx for the tip, to all who posted that - great (and super-cheap) idea!


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

iperov said:


> nice bike for museum.
> Front furious cannot handle even light sand on asphalt.


Thx for the comment, although I can assure you my bike is fully functional and sturdy. I'm certainly not doing massive drops, as it is an XC bike. If you are ever in the Toronto area, I can show you how this "museum piece" rides.

Re the tires, I'm definitely not aiming to ride them in mud. So far they feel similar (if not a bit better even in turns) to the S-Works Renegades, but I'm definitely aware of the limitations. I use another wheelset for muck.

Ironically, "light sand on asphalt" is actually a tricky scenario for any kind of tire, especially as they get knobbier, but I think I understand what you really meant, which was derogatory.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

First is a shot of the stock chainstay protector at 43 grams, and the next is ~ 10 inch segment of 3M 5126 (5 Mil) protective tape, which I'll keep an eye on over the next several rides. The weight of "2g" is probably debatable, but let's call it a nice 40g savings, for $0!

Thx for the recommendation guys!

Next up, fork?


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## montana_ben (Oct 26, 2010)

I pulled the spesh chain protector off my stumpy when applying some heli tape and weighed it out of curiosity--and ditched it. However the loud knock of the chain occasionally smacking the carbon stay (heli taped and a piece of gorilla tape over that) was unpleasant. Had a roll of foam adhesive backed weather stripping laying around and put a piece on top of the stay...much quieter, has held up surprisingly well, weighed almost nothing. The cork wrap idea earlier sounded good as well. You'll want some sound deadening I think. Nice Epic!


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

montana_ben said:


> I pulled the spesh chain protector off my stumpy when applying some heli tape and weighed it out of curiosity--and ditched it. However the loud knock of the chain occasionally smacking the carbon stay (heli taped and a piece of gorilla tape over that) was unpleasant. Had a roll of foam adhesive backed weather stripping laying around and put a piece on top of the stay...much quieter, has held up surprisingly well, weighed almost nothing. The cork wrap idea earlier sounded good as well. You'll want some sound deadening I think. Nice Epic!


I'll see how the 3M tape works, but I get your point about the cushioning. I *think* I have less chain slap with the clutched RD, but I might be imagining. Anyway, I'll report back on the chainstay, and thx for the advice.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Well, new fork en route thanks to briscoelab. Can't wait:
Rock Shox SID 29er World Cup 2014 Specialized Brain - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


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## montana_ben (Oct 26, 2010)

> I'll see how the 3M tape works, but I get your point about the cushioning. I *think* I have less chain slap with the clutched RD, but I might be imagining. Anyway, I'll report back on the chainstay, and thx for the advice.


Clutch derailleur on mine as well--was only when in a higher gear (small cog) heading downhill. Roll into some braking washboards at speed and the chain would smack the top of the stay--not the bottom. Just if you hear that you'll know what's going on. Just a sound issue, the stay was protected by the tape as yours will be... Let 'er rip!


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## RRRoubaix (Jan 30, 2011)

phlegm said:


> Well, new fork en route thanks to briscoelab. Can't wait:
> Rock Shox SID 29er World Cup 2014 Specialized Brain - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


Yay! I just saw this thread today and was reading thru and saw the mention of the RS Reba and I was thinking OMG- he's gotta ditch that for a SID!!
But I see WR had it covered- he's always got great advice.

Killer Epic, Phlegm! That is going to be an XC rocket!


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Thx for the kind comments and the input. Can't wait to get the new fork. I'll offer up pics and weights when it arrives. I know the QR15 will add weight over my existing DT Swiss RWS (9mm), but I suspect a fair bit of difference in the actual fork weights.

While I wait, if anyone has ideas for a light 15QR, let me know. The Tune versions are ~43g, but expensive.


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## irocss85 (Aug 10, 2009)

finally got time to finish reading your thread. awesome bike man. some day when funds are avail, I'll do a fresh build, sub 20lb 29er (or 650? lol).


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## irocss85 (Aug 10, 2009)

how much do the carbon rotors weigh/cost? and any performance gains/cost? how do you like them?


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

The rotors weigh 102g combined, but performance is tricky. With non-carbon pads, performance is borderline: just enough for an XC course that I know well. Probably not acceptable for most. Expensive too.

Apparently performance is miles better with matching carbon ceramic brake pads, $75 for a set.

I suspect these are best suited to sustained downhills where heat becomes a factor, and fade starts, but that doesn't apply to me.

In your build, I'd probably start with steel: Magura Storm SL, KCNC, Ashima Ai2, or similar.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Well, I decided to buy a few more things. I think the new fork "broke the seal" on my wallet.

On the way is:
Tune DC 12 (X-12 Syntace) rear QR
Tune DC 15 (Rock Shox) for the new QR15 on the front

And I'm awaiting order confirmation on:
MCFK stem, 6 degree +/-
MCFK flat bar, 31.8, 9 degree back
MCFK setback Seatpost, 350mm
MCFK ahead cap

I'll update when I have more info.


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## irocss85 (Aug 10, 2009)

yeah bout what I figured for the rotors. not on this bike. lol. everything I buy/lookat, I weigh the price/vs/weight/vs performance difference. it has to be better performing, and it has to weigh less. but how much I'll pay has to make sense with the performance and weight gain. sooo, right now my rotors weight 108g each. could get them down to 110g/pair for about $50. but to me thats not worth the investment. 

still trying to decide weather I like the 29'r better than my 26er (handling-wise) and its got me thinking 650b. or I might even just put them together and make a 69er just to try it out? who knows. right now my bikes weight between 26even to 26.5lbs between the three bikes. 

how much do you think you'll be saving after all the latest upgrades? your take off parts collection is better than my best parts on my bikes. lol.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

In for the update. You ever at O-cups. I would love to see some Tune and MCFK goodies in person!


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## robgall13 (Nov 30, 2012)

Now the only real weak link is the wheelset, I'd imagine that those weigh over 1600g so you could save a good 250g there.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

robgall13 said:


> Now the only real weak link is the wheelset, I'd imagine that those weigh over 1600g so you could save a good 250g there.


The stock wheelset is the Roval Control SL 29, claimed to be 1440g, but i don't have a weight of my own. I'm very happy with them, so I'll hang onto them.


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

The big question... How much faster are you now?


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

moefosho said:


> The big question... How much faster are you now?


I'm exactly .0036 % faster with every gram I save. 

It's actually a hobby, and a challenge, like with a lot of the people here in WW. I enjoy working on my bike as well.

We all know that you can't attribute these marginal weight savings to on-course results. Maybe a full wheel set change, but ~40g savings on a stem? No way.


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## Devincicx (Nov 20, 2011)

I cannot imagine how people can comment on WWism like that WHILE on the WW forum... what do you guys expect? It'S WW, light stuff, marginal weight saving, it's a passion, a lifestyle, not a question of being faster per se.


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## FireLikeIYA (Mar 15, 2009)

I believe you can ditch the top cap and starnut altogether. Use one of these to tighten your headset and then remove. Do this at your own risk.

Also, KCNC makes hollowed headset spacers.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Interesting - a temporary preload device. Makes sense, but scares me a bit.


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## FireLikeIYA (Mar 15, 2009)

phlegm said:


> Interesting - a temporary preload device. Makes sense, but scares me a bit.


AFAIK, the top cap is only there to preload your headset as you tighten the stem... beyond that, it only provides a feeling of comfort that everything is being held together on the front end. Your lower bearing is taking all of the load and if your stem were to get loose enough to were the top cap would prevent you from pulling it off, you would no longer be able to steer your bike.


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## WR304 (Jul 9, 2004)

FireLikeIYA said:


> I believe you can ditch the top cap and starnut altogether. Use one of these to tighten your headset and then remove. Do this at your own risk.
> 
> Also, KCNC makes hollowed headset spacers.


The Azonic Headlock won't work with a Rock Shox Sid 29 fork that has a carbon fibre steerer and crown. The carbon fibre fork crown is one piece and doesn't have a hole in the bottom of the steerer.

Schmolke do a 5g carbon fibre top cap for after you preload the headset and remove your standard top cap. A bargain at just €30 euros.

http://www.hibike.com/shop/product/...chmolke-carbon-Ahead-cap-for-1-1-8-forks.html


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

phlegm said:


> I'm exactly .0036 % faster with every gram I save.
> 
> It's actually a hobby, and a challenge, like with a lot of the people here in WW. I enjoy working on my bike as well.
> 
> We all know that you can't attribute these marginal weight savings to on-course results. Maybe a full wheel set change, but ~40g savings on a stem? No way.


Obviously you wont be able to notice 40g savings or other small changes, but if the combined change is significant, that would mean significant gains in my mind.
Well you have dropped about 4lbs, which to me is pretty significant. 16% of the stock bike.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

phlegm said:


> Well, I decided to buy a few more things. I think the new fork "broke the seal" on my wallet.
> 
> On the way is:
> Tune DC 12 (X-12 Syntace) rear QR
> ...


Merry X-mas to you!

Have you looked into the Ultrastar and Tune Gum Gum expanders? You might as well go all the way!

Extralite Ultrastar 2 Expander : Fairwheel Bikes, Cycling Boutique

Tune Gum Gum Expander Plug : Fairwheel Bikes, Cycling Boutique

If you are going full blown WW. I've seen guys use nylon bolts for the front and rear derailleurs.


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## WR304 (Jul 9, 2004)

I bought an Extralite Ultrastar 2 expander a few years ago. What a disaster.

In an (alloy) Rock Shox Sid 29 steerer tube it didn't expand enough to get a firm grip to allow the top cap to pull the headset together properly. When I started tightening the top cap the Ultrastar 2 expander was pulled up and partly out of the fork.

Just to rub it in the 8mm allen bolt is made from an incredibly soft material which rounded as I tried to get the expander back out of the steerer. I wound up having to hammer it out. It has to be one of my worst purchases ever.

The MCFK version might be a little better. From the Fairwheelbikes product page:

_"Mcfk's expander plug is a lightweight alternate to almost any expander plug. Compared to others in its weight range this plug has a stronger friction fit with its textured interface. The M10 fine threading and an 8mm hex for installation ensure long life and provide enough expanding force to lock into carbon alloy or steel. These two features mean you need half the force to tighten the expander plug compared to Extralite's Ultrastar 2. This puts less pressure on your steer tube and spreads it over a larger area."_ *Fairwheel Bikes*

http://fairwheelbikes.com/mcfk-expander-plug-p-5955.html

I haven't tried one though. The safest bet is to use a more substantial expander to preload the headset.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Hmm, that leaves the Tune gum-gum. Looks like you would buy it at a sex shop, not that I know about such things.

Awkward.


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## krzysiekmz (Nov 10, 2009)

It is the Gum-gum that gets most bad reviews. 

Ultrastar and Ultrastar2 work very well but only within a specified inside diameter of steerer tubes. Tend to slip more in aluminum steerers. New Ultrastar2 uses a 6mm allen key. I had issues with the previous 8mm too. 

These are 7g + 4g top cap and no loose headset ever. I've tried riding without it and it just does not work. Some people manage to ride without the expander/top-cap without issues. 

Chris.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Stuff will be coming in, so I thought I'd post some weights.

Top pic is the stock Reba 29er Brain fork. I couldn't find any standalone weights listed for it prior to dismantling things. It is actually quite decent for weight: 1594g.

Bottom pic is the new 2014 SID fork (with Brain). As you can see, 1556g, for a relatively small difference of 38g. Less savings than I was expecting to be honest, but again here, I had trouble finding any documentation around the weight of the SID. I guess this becomes THAT documentation. 

I've heard good things about the new SID, so happy to have it regardless. Keep an eye out on Pinkbike in the coming weeks should you be interested in the Reba. 

Note that both forks have the steerers cut to about the same length, both have the expander installed, and neither have a crown race on it. (The 2014 SID has an o-ring on it, near the crown, which is a smart idea given the water ingress that can happen in that spot. It also has a cable guide - seen in photo - which the Reba doesn't.) So the weights are a good apples-to-apples comparison.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

OK, more stuff, and the first of the MCFK bits.

So, just to frame this, my existing eBay saddle felt pretty light at 116g. When I picked up the MCFK, I kinda got the feeling of Styrofoam, if that means anything. Crazy light.

As you can see, it is about at the advertised weight at 70g.

A nice 46g savings, from an already light saddle. I'll continue to post scale shots as stuff comes in.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

...and the weigh-fest continues. Sorry in advance for some crappy shots. Just had a couple of coffees, and I guess I'm shaking. Too lazy to re-take.

First pic is of my existing DT Swiss RWS skewer (RWS MTB Titan). I love the ratcheting system on this, and would highly recommend it for anyone running a standard skewer. Of course this will go now that the new fork is QR15. Anyway, weight is 43g (advertised was 44g).

Next up is the stock QR15 that comes with the SID fork (weighed in a previous post). This shows as 70g.

However, I grabbed a Tune DC15 RS (RS = Rock Shox), and it comes in also at 43g (exactly as advertised), so no net weight gain on the front axle, which is great!


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## WR304 (Jul 9, 2004)

Which 2014 Rock Shox Sid brain fork is that in your photo? Is it from an S-Works Epic with the carbon steerer and brain control dial on top of the fork?

There's a big weight difference between that fork and the 1452g fork picture I linked in post #20. I'd like to know why they're so different.

http://fotos.mtb-news.de/p/1268860

.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Yes, carbon steerer, brain adjust on top, comes stock on this bike:
Specialized Bicycle Components


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Two more quick weights.

Top photo is the stock, co-branded DT Swiss/Spesh X12 on the rear, 66g. Bottom pic is the Tune X12 I picked up which gives a nice 30g savings at 36g (37g advertised).


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

So a couple of hiccups in the build (re-build).

First off, MCFK appears to have sent my parts from Germany via DHL's mail service, so they are still en route. Painfully slow.

Next, I had to get 15mm end caps from Specialized to convert my front wheel for the new fork. Problem is then when I tighten the axle, the wheel won't spin - it is held tight. The hub bearings are a bit notchy, but I suspect one or both of the end caps may be incorrect. 

LBS couldn't figure it out, so they shipped my fork and wheel to Specialized to investigate.

This should take a while.


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## WR304 (Jul 9, 2004)

Did you try measuring the dimensions of the two sets of hub end caps with digital calipers to see if there were any differences that could be causing the binding? With this sort of thing you can usually fix it with some modification to the hub end cap, or maybe a spacer, once you've worked out what's causing it. 

Assuming that it's your new Sid fork that the bike shop has sent off, have you put your Reba fork back on with a spare front wheel, so that you can keep riding in the meantime?


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## irocss85 (Aug 10, 2009)

That's a bummer dude. I was goin to A all the same thing about your old setup back on. I have multiple bikes for this reason. If one is inoperable, just grab one of the others. Lol.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

So, the shipment finally arrived from MCFK. It was via slow, regular parcel (mail), but there weren't any surprise duties or taxes upon delivery, so that makes it well worth the wait.

Outgoing stem is the Crank Bros Cobalt 11, 90mm, +/- 6 degrees. You'll see from the scale shot that it consists of a carbon shell, with 2 metal expanders. It seemed to work well enough, but I didn't like how the expander came into contact with the handlebar. I was careful about torque specs, but it seemed to me that it could easily cause a crease. The Crank Bros website claims 109g for 100mm, which seems pretty different from my results. My 90mm version, with both expanders was 117g. (Maybe mine is an older model, but it looks identical to the one featured on the site.)









Next up is the MCFK stem. It's a pretty standard design, accommodating 31.8 mm bars. Two titanium bolts on the fork, and 4 on the metal faceplate. You can choose from a few highlight colours, but I stuck with black. Claimed weight is 77g for an 80mm stem like mine, and it is right on that, allowing for some variability in my scale.









I thought I'd take a second closeup shot of the steerer mounting side. Note that it uses 2 cylindrical nuts to expand the force a bit further, which is a smart idea.









In any event, another 40g savings from a decently light stem to begin with.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

I have time for another quick post.

Next up is the outgoing bar, an Easton EC90 SL, 31.8mm, 640mm wide, riser (9 degrees back, 5 up). Easton claims 135g for 635mm, and scale is 142g, so pretty close.









Next shot is the MCFK bar, also 31.8mm, but slightly shorter at 620mm. It also has the 9 degrees of backsweep, but it's a flatbar, so I don't get the 5 degrees up. I tested this setup on a different bar and liked it (after moving to a slightly shorter stem). As you can see, the new bar weighs out at 119g, although it's not an apples-to-apples comparison in terms of bars. MCFK claims 115g (presumably for the shortest 580mm length), so the weight is appropriate here.

I wouldn't ordinarily opt to save just 23gs for this price, but I damaged my bar in an accident earlier this season, so needed a new one regardless.


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## Acko (Feb 18, 2014)

You're not finding 620mm too narrow? I've gone from 580 - 700 - 720 and now 740mm

I'm probably most comfortable at 710-720 so the current bar will get a trim


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## Acko (Feb 18, 2014)

Time for a new full bike pic methinks!

And why have you picked the craptastic Magura Brakes?

Why not go lighter and better with Formula R1 Racing?

Ditch those Furious Freds and get a set of Thunder Burts... lighter and grippier!

If you're still looking at expanders I wouldn't recommend any of those super light plugs for MTB use with a carbon steerer. You run the risk of your stem crushing the tube....

You'd get much better weight savings getting a 2014 S-Works WC frame! (If that was an option)


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Acko said:


> You're not finding 620mm too narrow? I've gone from 580 - 700 - 720 and now 740mm
> 
> I'm probably most comfortable at 710-720 so the current bar will get a trim


Nope, never got into the wide bar trend. As it stands, I already clip too many trees.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Thx Acko for the great questions. I'm gonna mega-intra-quote you now...



Acko said:


> Time for a new full bike pic methinks!


You bet, just waiting for my fork back from Specialized. Also have a couple of for scale shots to go.



Acko said:


> And why have you picked the craptastic Magura Brakes? Why not go lighter and better with Formula R1 Racing?


I like the MT8s fine actually. They seem to have gotten a bad reputation because of the cold weather recall maybe? That said, best ones ever IMO were the Magura Marta SLs that I had a while back. In any event, I'm back to the XTRs now (since I have carbon pads for them to match the SICC rotors).



Acko said:


> Ditch those Furious Freds and get a set of Thunder Burts... lighter and grippier!


Hmmm, not so sure about that. I was interested in the Burts, but balked at the higher price. (I know that sounds ridiculous given what I spent on MCFK stuff.) Burts seem amazing if they are grippier, and have better rolling resistance like Shwalbe claims. However, lightest Burts are 435g, while the Freds are 360g. That's a 150g more on the bike.



Acko said:


> If you're still looking at expanders I wouldn't recommend any of those super light plugs for MTB use with a carbon steerer. You run the risk of your stem crushing the tube....


Thx, but I'll be using the stock expander in that 2014 fork.



Acko said:


> You'd get much better weight savings getting a 2014 S-Works WC frame! (If that was an option)


Don't tempt me.


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## Devincicx (Nov 20, 2011)

you're from ON right?

Will you be in Sudbury and HWH in the upcoming weeks? I'll be there from south QC, I'll try to spot that light bike


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Yep, ON, but I'm out of town that week. Maybe we'll sync up at some other point.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

The scale-a-thon continues, with the seatpost.

Old one is an Easton EC 90 offset, 30.9, 350mm. Hard to know exactly what Easton claims here, because their website indicates 200g for a 31.6, but does not specify length. In any event, as per the photo, my version is 202g, so I'll say that's pretty close.









This is a good apples-to-apples comparison with the MCFK Seatpost though, since it is also offset, 30.9, 350mm long. MCFK claims 117g for this exact combination, however as per the pic below, I'm seeing 125g. Hardly a massive difference, but it is the largest discrepancy on their parts thus far. As a check, I weighed the post without the "clamping arch" at it shows as 115g.

Amounts to a 77g difference.









Speaking of the clamping arch (the separate carbon piece), both seatposts use this approach, so I thought I'd weight them both just for fun. The designs are slightly different (the Easton is scooped out underneath, while the MCFK is effectively hollow), with the Easton piece weighing almost twice as much.


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## muntos (Jul 28, 2013)

Great work, keep going, I need some inspiration for my 29er, I dream to drop below 8kg, but it's so hard...


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## WR304 (Jul 9, 2004)

How do you tighten the clamps on the MCFK seatpost? Do they screw into the seatpost from above?


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## sfer1 (Feb 22, 2009)

WR304 said:


> How do you tighten the clamps on the MCFK seatpost? Do they screw into the seatpost from above?


http://www.mcfk.de/assets//Mcfk_Mai...fk_gebrauchsanleitung_stuetze_versatz_eng.pdf


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Yep, the front bolt is pretty much inaccessible since it is directly in line with the post cylinder (it is captured with an o-ring). I suppose you could use a 350mm+ bit extender and slide that up into the post, but that obviously doesn't help you when the seatpost is installed.

As per sfer1, MCFK recommends tightening the front yoke at the top, then tightening the rear bolt. They warn that it will take some patience to get the angle right.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Last of the scale shots. This purchase wasn't around weight savings, but rather because MCFK has a cool idea. When you've installed your stem, you'd typically have to have the steerer/fork shaft a couple of mm below the top of the stem - see the example from Ritchey. This allows the cap to sit in firmly and flush:









However, that does reduce the contact between the stem and the steerer tube on the fork, if only a little bit. MCFK's Ahead-Cap allows you to run the steerer 1mm above the stem, for complete contact. Here's a side shot that hopefully shows it well enough (cap is upside down):









Again, this isn't about weights, but apparently it is mandatory in this forum to weigh stuff, so here's a shot of the outgoing AER cap from Cane Creek, which is alloy, with areas bored out, and an ALU screw for 9g:









...and the MCFK Ahead-Cap and screw for 5g:









Now just have to assemble all this stuff.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Good news! (Actually weird news.). My LBS called me to apologize for the delay, as I left them my front wheel and SID WC fork a month ago.

Apparently Specialized Canada repaired my front wheel, then lost it. (Unsure what was wrong as the wheel spun fine with the original skewer, but would not spin at all with the 15mm conversion cups.) They sent the LBS my fork back with a new 2014 Roval Control SL 29. I can't see much difference between it, and my 2011.

In any event, I can start to throw on the MCFK stuff, and will keep you posted.


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## irocss85 (Aug 10, 2009)

Crazy man.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

At least i get to keep the new wheel if they don't find the old one.


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## Gregg K (Jan 12, 2004)

I've been admiring the effort that is going into this bike. There's some great stuff here. 

I want to ask though, if you're really serious about every aspect of weight loss, why would you even use a stem cap? I've been riding sans cap and stupidnut for many years.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

*.*



Gregg K said:


> I've been admiring the effort that is going into this bike. There's some great stuff here.
> 
> I want to ask though, if you're really serious about every aspect of weight loss, why would you even use a stem cap? I've been riding sans cap and stupidnut for many years.


Thx for the comment.

So I take it you use a cap just to set the preload, then remove it? I keep mine for a few reasons:

-My buddy had a weird crash several years ago. His sternum dragged across his stem, and I witnessed a nice skin flap on his chest. He was using a cap (he wasn't/isn't a WW), but there was a very sharp edge in that area. Fluke injury, but I'll never leave anything unfinished/exposed on my bike.

-Technically speaking, if your stem fails, you still have the cap holding on. (Not sure how realistic this is though.)

-The cap and screw is only 5g.

-I think it looks better.


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## Gregg K (Jan 12, 2004)

I made a special tool consisting of washers that fit, and a long bolt. I had totally forgotten about that until you asked. If it isn't needed, I don't want it on my bike. 

Don't forget, it's another 10g for the starnut. 

It seems like a silly conversation, but as I'm planning my next bike build, I can see how the pounds add up.


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## WR304 (Jul 9, 2004)

phlegm said:


> Fluke injury, but I'll never leave anything unfinished/exposed on my bike.


In the first picture of your bike at the beginning of this thread have you got end plugs in the handlebars by the grips? Missing end plugs can cause problems in a crash if you fall on the bar.

Did you get a 2014 Roval Control SL front wheel with red or white graphics? I'm looking forwards to seeing the finished bike.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

WR304 said:


> In the first picture of your bike at the beginning of this thread have you got end plugs in the handlebars by the grips? Missing end plugs can cause problems in a crash if you fall on the bar.
> 
> Did you get a 2014 Roval Control SL front wheel with red or white graphics? I'm looking forwards to seeing the finished bike.


Good eyes - in the first pic I hadn't yet inserted the plugs. That was my old bar anyway, but I'll certainly be using end caps in the new one.

Re the wheel, it looks pretty much identical to my stock 2011 wheel. Not sure if that means it is not a 2014 - haven't looked at the latest ones. In any event, it is certainly a brand new wheel, and it spins perfectly in the fork with 15mm hub conversion caps.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

OK, I am finally getting things back together. Tire is on, wheel in the fork, so I can finally set the seatpost and saddle for the correct height & angle.

I mentioned earlier that MCFK's documentation calls for patience when setting the saddle angle - no kidding! As WR304 noted, the front bolt is unreachable when the seat post is in the frame, as it is right inside the cylinder of the post itself - see the 2 screw locations in this pic:








[Do you like the nice china soup server behind my bike? I find it exciting to do my work right next to highly fragile things that are important to my wife.]

MCFK mentions that you'll have to adjust the front yoke height by hand, then tighten the rear bolt. The trick is that you have to re-loosen the rear bolt completely in order to get enough slack to spin the front yoke. Hard to explain, but this amounts to a lot of trial and error, and repetition, and swearing.

I'm doing this a slightly different way, in that I'm using an extension that allows me to access that front bolt from inside the seatpost. Obviously the seatpost can't be installed, but I found it easier to make small adjustments as I didn't have to loosen both bolts entirely for each adjustment. Again, I'm probably not explaining this very well, but if you are buying this seatpost, consider also getting an extension for your hex bits. (You'll need at least 10", and may have to use 2 extenders together.)

Next shot is from underneath, which shows the rear yoke, and the opening to adjust the rear bolt. Couple of more notes here in that MCFK recommends thread lock on the bolts, and if your rails are oval, you may need to remove 2 washers from beneath the bolts to give the threads more clearance:









Last shot is from the rear of the seatpost. Not easy to see (so I marked the rectangular area), but MCFK has reinforced a portion of the seatpost, and you need this area to fall into the clamp area. Not sure if you can pick it up on the photo, but they've done a different weave in this area to make it visible. If you don't see the weave, you're in the wrong spot.









This is a better description directly from MCFK's documentation:









I'll be reporting back on the seatpost, and all components later on. As for the installation itself, it's not for the uninitiated, and is fairly frustrating.


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## MOJO K (Jan 26, 2007)

phlegm said:


> :
> 
> View attachment 912707
> 
> [Do you like the nice china soup server behind my bike? I find it exciting to do my work right next to highly fragile things that are important to my wife.]


You can buy her 4 of those things for what that post cost....or glue it back together in half the time it will take you to adjust that saddle 

Still....can we get a picture of the soup bowl on the scale just for the hell of it? Maybe the bowl and the lid weighed separately as the lid could be removed from the set-up for better WW soup service....oh, oh ,oh...and a weight on your lightest ladle too.

When you get a chance, of course.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

MOJO K said:


> You can buy her 4 of those things for what that post cost....or glue it back together in half the time it will take you to adjust that saddle
> 
> Still....can we get a picture of the soup bowl on the scale just for the hell of it? Maybe the bowl and the lid weighed separately as the lid could be removed from the set-up for better WW soup service....oh, oh ,oh...and a weight on your lightest ladle too.
> 
> When you get a chance, of course.


Ha! Just don't buy a Chinese ladle from eBay - too risky.


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## MOJO K (Jan 26, 2007)

phlegm said:


> Ha! Just don't buy a Chinese ladle from eBay - too risky.


Too true, Baby, too true!


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## robgall13 (Nov 30, 2012)

What seatpost clamp are you using? Looks heavy.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

robgall13 said:


> What seatpost clamp are you using? Looks heavy.


Great point. It's the stock one from the bike. I suspect I can shave another 10g with something lighter, so something to think about.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Compared to the seatpost/saddle, everything else has installed pretty easily.

This shot is of the "open" stem, which wraps around a bit. Not sure if you could "snap" in the bar, but in my case I just slid it in sideways. (You are seeing carbon paste on it.)









Next I thought I'd show the fastening system that MCFK designed, as it is unique. It uses a standard (alloy) faceplate, but you see great attention to detail in the beveled & tapered bolts which are held in place by the long inlay with the two holes. This spreads the force across more of the stem:









Here's a cockpit shot. WR304 will probably notice that the Ahead cap bolt head isn't lined up nicely. Hey, I'm not fooling around with the torque, so if the bolt stops at a certain orientation, that's where it stays. (I actually backed it loose by 1/16th of a rotation to at least get it symmetrical).









Last in this post is a shot from the front. Maybe a bit too much logo-ism in one place, but unsure if I want to remove the decals given the effect on resale value:


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

*Woo-Hoo!*

I didn't say anything earlier, but I was secretly hoping to break the 20 lb barrier ... and I did.

Weight, of full, ready-to-ride bike is 19.95 pounds. (I have not yet placed end caps in the handlebars.)

[Post title edited!]

Here's the obligatory scale shot:









...and full shot of the bike, although I should take a better pic:


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## campergf23 (Aug 4, 2013)

That's a sexy bike.


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## WR304 (Jul 9, 2004)

phlegm said:


> Here's a cockpit shot. WR304 will probably notice that the Ahead cap bolt head isn't lined up nicely. Hey, I'm not fooling around with the torque, so if the bolt stops at a certain orientation, that's where it stays. (I actually backed it loose by 1/16th of a rotation to at least get it symmetrical).


The MCFK lettering on the bolt is ok.

The main thing that stands out with the new setup is that your saddle angle isn't quite how it used to be. If you look at your picture in post #1 the saddle is flat / slightly nose up. In the most recent picture with the MCFK seatpost and saddle installed the saddle looks to be pointing nose down with the rear lip of the saddle being too high. I'd use a spirit level across the top to try and even it out a bit. Now that you've got it mastered it should only take four or five hours.

*Edit:* When you rotate the picture so the wheels are level the saddle doesn't actually look that far off. The MCFK saddle has a pronounced rear lip to it anyway so you would want the middle section of saddle to be flat, as with the Specialized saddles, rather than the nose and rear of the MCFK saddle at an equal height.

Ps. In post #87 you were thinking of a "yoke" not a "yolk".


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## Gregg K (Jan 12, 2004)

20 pounds. Wow. And you didn't even use a Lefty. 

I'm gathering ideas for an Ibis Ripley build. I was hoping to get it below 22 pounds. Thanks to your build, I am pretty sure it can be done now. 

I've searched all over for the frame weight. Do you happen to know what it weighs?


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## WR304 (Jul 9, 2004)

Gregg K said:


> I've searched all over for the frame weight. Do you happen to know what it weighs?


Eliflap's medium 2011 S-Works Epic frame weighed 5.19lbs/ 2,356g

http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/2011-s-works-carbon-epic-frame-weight-695398.html#post7889526

The 2013 S-Works Epic frame looks to be around the lightest in recent years. 4.91lbs / 2,227g here size medium

http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/black-s-works-29er-epic-689915-post7854353.html#post7854353

The newer 2014/ 2015 Epic frame with double bottle cages isn't actually any lighter than the 2013. 2014 S-Works Epic WC medium frameset with rear axle and seat collar = 4.99lbs/ 2,264g

http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weeni...wc-frameset-med-real-world-weight-888769.html

The brain rear shock adds quite a bit of weight compared to the standard rear shocks on other bikes.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

WR304 said:


> The MCFK lettering on the bolt is ok.
> 
> The main thing that stands out with the new setup is that your saddle angle isn't quite how it used to be. If you look at your picture in post #1 the saddle is flat / slightly nose up. In the most recent picture with the MCFK seatpost and saddle installed the saddle looks to be pointing nose down with the rear lip of the saddle being too high. I'd use a spirit level across the top to try and even it out a bit. Now that you've got it mastered it should only take four or five hours.
> 
> ...


Good, glad the bolt orientation did not disturb you.

Re the saddle, I will have to adjust it a few times to find the sweet spot. The shape is a bit different, and it is 5mm wider than my original eBay version. That position won't be final.

Yolks changed.


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## PekkaS-works (Aug 20, 2013)

i am not sure but one might save weight by using road bike bar tape on the MTB handlebar not maybe so comfy but might be a weight saver, also i wonder if there is any other seatpost than specialized that can have the phenom pro on.
also i think Pro has some light stuff.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

That's an interesting idea. There are some road bike tapes that include gel, and could nicely dampen vibration. Additionally, some are cork-based. I have some from my road bikes that I can check out.

Great idea!


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## muntos (Jul 28, 2013)

Lizzard Skins, DSI grip, 22g /pair including end caps. Great feal, great look, super light ;-) 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 4


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

I have a few rides in at this point, and it's always a pain when you change so many components at once (fork, stem, seatpost, saddle, bar). Still have to make some adjustments.

Some quick things I'm looking at:

-saddle is flexy (in a good way) and actually more comfortable than my previous eBay carbon one. 

-I am getting a creaking noise from the saddle (I think), so will have to try to isolate it

-stem seems rock solid, no perceptible flex

-I think I'm sensing a bit of flex on the handlebar, but I'm not 100% sure, so will have to double check.

-I am struggling to set the sag on the fork right, given the required pressure seems way too low - I'll keep playing with that.

I'll start to do individual reviews on the parts at this point, especially given the rarity of info on MCFK components.


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## sfer1 (Feb 22, 2009)

phlegm said:


> OK, I am finally getting things back together. Tire is on, wheel in the fork, so I can finally set the seatpost and saddle for the correct height & angle.
> 
> I mentioned earlier that MCFK's documentation calls for patience when setting the saddle angle - no kidding! As WR304 noted, the front bolt is unreachable when the seat post is in the frame, as it is right inside the cylinder of the post itself - see the 2 screw locations in this pic:
> 
> ...


Setting the saddle angle would be much easier if they had done something like this:









Longer front bolt, unthreaded front yoke + thumb nut


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Ah, that's a good approach. What brand/model is that?


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## sfer1 (Feb 22, 2009)

phlegm said:


> Ah, that's a good approach. What brand/model is that?


http://blog.velocite-bikes.com/2010/06/velocite-tlcs31-seatpost-167g---the-final-puzzle-piece/


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## MaLoL1 (Jan 16, 2004)

Amazing machine ;-)


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

*Update*

Thought I'd give an update now that I've ridden with the new parts for a while.

As indicated, I'm down to 19.95 lbs / 9.05 kg.

Was getting an intermittent creaking sounds, which was hard to trace, especially given that I replaced so many parts at once. Turns out, that it got worse, and I could trace it to each pedal stroke: bottom bracket. This is a common issue on the Epic, and relates to the bearings, and more specifically how they seat in the cups. Had it before, and will fix it again with a reseat & relube. Thankfully no other creaks, aside from the saddle, which I'll get into.

*MCFK Flatbar* (620 mm, 9 degree backsweep, real weight: 119g)
I mentioned earlier that I *thought* I felt some flex in the bar, but I'm not sure where that came from. I've ridden dozens of times since, on asphalt through to trail, and there is no flex. Not much else to say aside from the fit and finish is amazing, and the weight was as advertised.








_ Caption: You can also see the Ahead cap (real weight: 5g, including bolt) which is a smart idea to finish off the front assembly. It allows the stem to fully grab the steerer since you don't have to leave room for a typical headset cap._

*MCFK Stem* (80 mm, 6 degrees, real weight: 76g)
This has been among the biggest "surprises", although that's probably too strong a word. It's crazy light (and crazy expensive), but there has been absolutely no detectable flex or otherwise difference from far heavier stems. I suppose that's the point. I've also noticed that because both the stem and bar are full carbon, it has eliminated a bit more of the road buzz/vibration when on asphalt. (The ESI chunky grips also help here.)

It ships with stickers on the side of the stem, but it is oriented for the 6 degree down position. I have it rotated up, and thus the stickers looked odd - goodbye stickers. (There still is MCFK on the front plate, and already too many MCFK stickers to be honest.)








_Caption: Like the serving tray in the background? I get my wife to fix me up some appetizers while I work on the bike. Yeah, right._

*Rockshox (Specialized) SID WC 2014 Fork* (real weight: 1556g)
This has been the most "meh" upgrade of the bunch. I only saved ~40g over my 2011 Brain fork. Performance is the same as far as I can tell, as I have it setup for quicker rebound, as apposed to big hits. Not much else to say here.









*MCFK Saddle* (real weight: 70g)
This has been a pleasant surprise. It is a full 40g lighter than my already light eBay carbon saddle, and it is more comfortable. The shape is similar, but wider on the back that suits me even better. I am however getting a click/clunk sound when I sit back in the saddle which I believe is related to the interface between it, and the seatpost. As you can read in my previous posts, the process of tightening the saddle on the post isn't easy, so I suspect there may be a bit of play. I've looked at the saddle independently, and there is nothing loose, even with some weight applied. There is also a nice bit of flex in it, which you absolutely want!

Unsure if the photo below captures it, but it is like a wafer-thin piece of carbon attached to the rails. Feels like a feather when you pick it up. I've also included a shot of my old saddle for reference. I'll report back on the click/cluck sound if and when I sort it.
















_Caption: This is the old saddle, at a "chunky" 116g. It is relatively slim, and I prefer the MCFK saddle's wider shape._

*MCFK Seatpost *(30.9mm, 350mm, real weight: 125g with mounting arc)
I touched on this above, but the only pain here is getting the saddle on. The weight came in exactly, the fit & finish is great, and I cannot detect any creaks whatsoever. I also like how MCFK does a reverse weave on the back on the post to mark the insertion point (I capture this in an earlier post).








_Caption: Have no idea where all those baskets came from. I swear, I don't collect them or anything. That would be weird._

*Tune DS 15 RS* (real weight: 43g)
*Tune X12* (real weight: 36g)

Lastly, I added the Tune bits front and rear, and I've been pleased with them. They either allowed me to shed weight (over the rear X12), or allowed me to keep the same weight as a standard QR, but allowing for 15mm. They work as advertised, and have not come loose.

It can be a bit of a pain to get the orientation right, i.e. getting the handle in the right position. Inevitably it is too tight when you have it oriented the way you want. Thanks to WR304 and his guidance on how to adjust the orientation - you have to push in. On a related note, you have to be careful not to push in while you install it - just push in when you want to change the orientation:
http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires...-shox-thru-axle-without-allen-key-790890.html
















Although not as new as the others, here's a shot of the Wolftooth spiderless chainring that I've been running. I've been very pleased with it, and it also allowed me to shed some weight from the relatively heavy spider that ships with the Epic S-Works. I'd highly recommend it.

You can also see the 3M wrap I use on the chainstay based on great recommendations you guys gave me. It does look a bit ghetto though:








_ Caption: The red & black KMC chain might look cool, but it is hard to tell when it is dirty. Next chain will be silver._


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## Gregg K (Jan 12, 2004)

I just realized that you have Kettle rotors. I'm very curious what your thoughts are, and if you've tried more than one type of pad.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Gregg K said:


> I just realized that you have Kettle rotors. I'm very curious what your thoughts are, and if you've tried more than one type of pad.


Mine are the original release, non-c-processed version, 160mm up front, 140mm rear. Unfortunately, with non-carbon pads it just wasn't enough, and I took some unintended rides into the bush. They ultimately sent me their first iteration of carbon pads, and I'd say that is "just enough", after a long burn-in period.

I have not yet tried their "metal" pads, and as mentioned mine aren't c-processed. You may getter better results with that combination.

Due to customer service delays, I've been hesitant to send back my rotors for the processing, so I'll stick with "just enough" for now.


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## muntos (Jul 28, 2013)

I'm sorry to say this but (for me) they are ugly as he**... :-( And I'm not sure it worths (braking power, costs, weight) , how much weight did you save compared to some light 2 piece rotors? 50-60 grams per set? 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 4


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## Gregg K (Jan 12, 2004)

I haven't given up on them despite what I'm seeing in the Kettle thread. And the KCNC rotors, and others are pretty damn light. Still, I'm looking forward to reviews when this new rotor series comes out. 

I kind of expected your experience.


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## WR304 (Jul 9, 2004)

For the bottom bracket the new Wheels Manufacturing threaded PF30 bottom brackets could be worth a look. The parts thread together which may help reduce creaking when riding.

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/...et-solutions-from-wheels-manufacturing-42425/


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## holyPT (Dec 15, 2013)

Nice build you got there phlegm!

You will soon enough be at the weight of mine!
Keep it up, enjoying the changes you have been making since the beginning.

Yes Kettle are VERY slow doing stuff! Beware, I waited months for just my stuff out of them.


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

Nice update. It's always a balancing act with ww stuff and for me, the Kettle rotors cross over that line where the expense, lack of performance and minimal weight savings just don't add up. They would really need to be get some radically improved reviews before I would consider them.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

muntos said:


> I'm sorry to say this but (for me) they are ugly as he**... :-( And I'm not sure it worths (braking power, costs, weight) , how much weight did you save compared to some light 2 piece rotors? 50-60 grams per set?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 4


Yep, I hear you. They have a raw look to them. I think they look ok, but they might look odd on an ALU frame, or if you otherwise have a lighter colour scheme.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

WR304 said:


> For the bottom bracket the new Wheels Manufacturing threaded PF30 bottom brackets could be worth a look. The parts thread together which may help reduce creaking when riding.
> 
> New bottom bracket solutions from Wheels Manufacturing - BikeRadar


Thx, I'll give it a try. Tired of revisiting the BB creak.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

holyPT said:


> Nice build you got there phlegm!
> 
> You will soon enough be at the weight of mine!
> Keep it up, enjoying the changes you have been making since the beginning.
> ...


Ha, you're cheating with a Lefty! My extra brains add some weight too. 

Yeah, I'm in no hurry to deal with Kettle again.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

TigWorld said:


> Nice update. It's always a balancing act with ww stuff and for me, the Kettle rotors cross over that line where the expense, lack of performance and minimal weight savings just don't add up. They would really need to be get some radically improved reviews before I would consider them.


I agree. If I hadn't backed them in Kickstarter I would not have bought them now. Price : Weight : Performance isn't there yet.

They certainly are conversation starters on the trail, and in my LBS.


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## xcbarny (Jun 10, 2009)

I notice in the above pics you've got Nobby Nics on - what does it weigh with these? They're a fairly heavy tire aren't they?

I run Racing Ralph rear and Rocket Ron front, both snakeskin as we get rock tears here, though I'm considering a non Snakeskin on the front to save 80 - 100g


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Right, for some of the later setup pics I had the NNs on, and they are much heavier. The Furious Freds simply don't cut it in mud.

I've sold off this frame, and built an HT:
http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenies/new-build-2013-s-works-stumpjumper-ht-935429.html


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