# Humor: How to NOT clean bike parts with acetone.



## mrthreeplates (Oct 26, 2010)

Just thought I'd share my little screw-up for your amusement:

*A procedure I do NOT recommend*


Carefully pour acetone into a disposable plastic cup until about 1/3 full. Not too full, you don't want to spill or waste anything...
Take old toothbrush that you've already used to clean bike parts and scrub it in acetone to remove any residual grease
Smile to self as grease comes off easily - wow, acetone works great!
Smile fades as you notice weird gooey stuff building up on toothbrush - realize it is the cup rapidly dissolving
Swear loudly as you run into house looking for a glass jar that you should have used in step 1.
Attempt to pour contents of plastic cup into glass jar - realize plastic cup is mysteriously empty
Notice that plastic cup is no longer attached to it's bottom
Observe pool of acetone spreading across table - now melting toothbrush and nearby screwdriver handle
Swear some more
Grab paper towels and clean up big mess
Throw everything away

Note to self: Acetone melts certain plastics rather quickly.

What I was trying to do, for those that care, was prep some alloy surfaces (a FSA carbon crank arm) prior to applying loctite 641. Previously, they were (incorrectly) covered with grease which I had already removed with Simple Green. I was going to use the Acetone to get the last bit of greasy film off so that the loctite would stick better.

At least I didn't spill/drip any acetone on my cranks (arms). It never occurred to me that it could ruin the finish. I haven't tested this theory, but based on my recent experience, I'm not about to try.

I knew acetone was strong (so I was wearing gloves), I didn't realize it could eat through a plastic cup in less than 30 seconds. Amazing.

BTW: Anyone have any suggestions on how to clean such parts with Acetone now? I'll probably try q-tips next so that I can keep the acetone away from the carbon finish. Some have suggested rubbing alcohol instead, but I'd read that Acetone was a better degreaser for use prior to applying loctite. Clearly it can melt plastics faster!

Cheers,

George


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## wbmason55 (May 30, 2010)

The only cleaner that ever touches my bikes is isopropyl alcohol.
Acetone's some dangerous shi t.


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## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

What the devil do you need acetone for? I agree, it's some nasty ****. Degreaser and isopropyl alcohol are all I've ever needed.


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## iSlowpoke (Feb 24, 2009)

Acetone has been banned at my work.... =\


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

Doh dishwashing detergent and water work just fine 

So does a dab of wd40..


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## Prophet Julio (May 8, 2008)

WD40 on a rag works great. Really, it does. It gets rid of grease and grime without ruining paint. Just keep it off the discs and pads.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

Prophet Julio said:


> WD40 on a rag works great. Really, it does. It gets rid of grease and grime without ruining paint. Just keep it off the discs and pads.


You also need to keep it away from bearing, fork and shock seals.


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## mrthreeplates (Oct 26, 2010)

Berkley said:


> What the devil do you need acetone for? I agree, it's some nasty ****. Degreaser and isopropyl alcohol are all I've ever needed.


Just so you don't think I'm totally crazy...

Some have recommended acetone as prep prior to using loctite 641:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/661122-Clicking-BB30

Obviously, you need to be more careful with it than I was!


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

Acetone + styrofoam/plastic = homemade napalm.

edit: or was that gasoline and styrofoam?


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## spazzy (Aug 15, 2004)

jtmartino said:


> Acetone + styrofoam/plastic = homemade napalm.
> 
> edit: or was that gasoline and styrofoam?


I believe its gas and styrofoam or gas and certain types of bar soap.

I didnt think acetone was ALL that nasty. I work with it all the time in Organic Lab, there have been multiple things that are worse


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## Fix the Spade (Aug 4, 2008)

Acetone's not nasty, it doesn't tolerate disrespect, but it's not nasty.

I second (third?) using Isopropyl Alcohol. Acetone's for thinning paint, blasting out of blowtorches and treating epilepsy, not very good for cleaning.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

I like alcohol as a cleaner too (keeping a spray bottle full was one of the best mechanic tips I've ever received) but it just doesn't seem to cut it for really greasy stuff or to work quickly enough either. For nastier stuff I use odorless mineral spirits, either on a rag for most parts or in a sealed container for soaking other parts, as it isn't as nasty as acetone and evaporates like acetone and alcohol.


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## bankerboy (Oct 17, 2006)

Berkley said:


> What the devil do you need acetone for? I agree, it's some nasty ****. Degreaser and isopropyl alcohol are all I've ever needed.


Key ingredient in nail polish remover. If you have wife, daughter, girlfriend or are a bit goth, you already have a bottle or two in your house.


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## DParks (Oct 3, 2009)

Diesel fuel works wonders, or kerosene, which is almost identical. I like the smell of diesel fuel, especially after it has been sent through a good engine, but I don't care for my hands smelling like it for long periods of time.

For really nasty chains and the like, I use Dawn Direct Foam and an old toothbrush. Works very well, is cheap, a little bit goes a long way, clean up is easy, and the wife gets pissed when I wash diesel down the kitchen sink. With the Dawn, she never even knows.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Berkley said:


> What the devil do you need acetone for? I agree, it's some nasty ****. Degreaser and isopropyl alcohol are all I've ever needed.


"degreaser" can refer to a lot of different chemicals, but most of these need to be rinsed off after use otherwise they will leave residue and break down greases applied afterwards. Hence the desire for something like acetone that naturally evaporates with no appreciable residue, like what most people know alcohol as being good for too. Mineral spirits does a decent job of this too, as does kerosene, without being quite as nasty as acetone.

Another plus to these solvents over many standard degreasers is that you can filter out the junk and reuse the solvent if you're using it for things like soaking a chain in a jar


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

If you think acetone is good, try petroleum ether. Much better stuff, just wish I could buy it now I no longer work in a lab.


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## Stupendous Man (Jan 12, 2004)

As one person pointed out, its the main ingredient in some fingernail polish removers.

In science class years ago, we had about 1/2 cup of acetone in a jar, and stuffed thousands of styrofoam peanuts into the jar. It dissolved about a cubic yard of them, leaving behind a nasty blob of petroleum byproduct about the size of one peanut.

and it smells good to!


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Get yourself a can of brake cleaner at the local auto parts store.


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

jeffw-13 said:


> Get yourself a can of brake cleaner at the local auto parts store.


Just don't get any overspray on any plastic or rubber parts. I had some brake cleaner overspray onto my stereo and it ate some big holes in the plastic housing.


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## Mithrandir (Nov 25, 2010)

jeffscott said:


> You also need to keep it away from bearing, fork and shock seals.


Why is that? I was in the understanding that WD40 lubricates more than degreases. It has some solvent too hard?

My brother just sprays all over any part of his bike that needs lubricating. I usually use Finish Line lubs on the chain and pretty much that's it until is sent to major maintenance to the LBS.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Mithrandir said:


> Why is that? I was in the understanding that WD40 lubricates more than degreases. It has some solvent too hard?
> 
> My brother just sprays all over any part of his bike that needs lubricating. I usually use Finish Line lubs on the chain and pretty much that's it until is sent to major maintenance to the LBS.


According to wikipedia WD40 is 50% mineral spirits (a good solvent) and only 15% mineral oil (a light and not too good lubricant). If you spray WD40 on a bearing or seal you can force solvent past the seal and break down the grease or oil inside


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## Kasper (Feb 23, 2004)

Fix the Spade said:


> Acetone's not nasty, it doesn't tolerate disrespect, but it's not nasty




As a young chemist student I once tried to pour acetic acid from a big 15 liter container into a 10 mL graduated cylinder. I wanted exactly 10mL and a fellow student offered to help me. As I started to pour he placed his head and face closely to the cylinder in order to check and say stop when I was done. Of course I ended pouring the acid all over the place including his face and clothes. No permanent harm was done as he quickly got under the emergency shower. But when I later had to explain it to the professor in charge of the lab he responded "No Kasper, It wasn't acetic acid that burnt your friend, it was YOU who burnt him"

Kasper


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## eltazar (Nov 1, 2006)

Acetone on your skin will make it dry - not much more damage. It's awesome for quick drying glass lab equipment, too. But it's very flammable...


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## dblvanos (Mar 17, 2010)

I use acetone to clean rubber scuff marks off the hull of my boat. Not in love with the smell but a small dab with a rag and the marks come right off.


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## caesar148 (Oct 13, 2010)

Acetone is a powerful solvent. It will dissolve all plastics and ruin your bike's paint work. It is also what glue sniffers go after. I use kerosene or turpentine paint thinner to clean my bike.

BTW, adding a little acetone to your gas tank will improve your vehicle's fuel economy but be careful about not spilling it on the paint work.


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## Brewtality (Jul 25, 2007)

A lot of bad advice in this thread

The OP is trying to prep mating surfaces for application of Locktite 641
Locktite 614 PDF

The instructions call for use of a 'Locktite cleaning solvent'. The most readily available substitute for this would be electrical contact cleaner. Available at automotve parts shops and hardware stores. Contact cleaner dries instantly and degreases without leaving any residue. It will not damage rubber components. For best results with 641, spray the area with contact cleaner. Wipe off excess grease with rag. Spray _again_ with contact cleaner. _Do not touch the area with your bare hands!!_ Even just the oils from your skin can affect the effectiveness of the 641.

Substances like diesel fuel, mineral oil, wd40, dish soap & water, brake clean, etc.. will leave oily residue behind, resulting in poor performance of the 641.:nono:


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## mrthreeplates (Oct 26, 2010)

Hi Brewtality,

Thanks for the tips. I happen to have this lying around (don't know how many years old it is, but it is at least 10-20 years)...

See attached.

Archer (Radio Shack) Cleaner Degreaser

Contents: Trichlorotrifluoroethane 76-13-1 Trichloromonofluoromethane 75-69-4; Carbon Dioxide 124-38-9 Isopropanol 67-63-0.

Edit: Sorry, I meant to say: is this the same electrical contact cleaner you mention?

Thanks!!!

George


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## mellowdave (Feb 3, 2010)

Fix the Spade said:


> Acetone's not nasty, it doesn't tolerate disrespect, but it's not nasty.
> 
> I second (third?) using Isopropyl Alcohol. Acetone's for thinning paint, blasting out of blowtorches and treating epilepsy, not very good for cleaning.


Dude-

There is a LOT of bad advice here.

Take a look at this extract from the MSDS sheet for Acetone-

Potential Chronic Health Effects:
CARCINOGENIC EFFECTS: A4 (Not classifiable for human or animal.) by ACGIH. MUTAGENIC EFFECTS: Not available. 
TERATOGENIC EFFECTS: Not available. 
DEVELOPMENTAL TOXICITY: Classified Reproductive system/toxin/female, Reproductive system/toxin/male. The substance is toxic to central nervous system (CNS). The substance may be toxic to kidneys, the reproductive system, liver, skin. Repeated or prolonged exposure to the substance can produce target organs damage."

I'm leaning toward it not being such a benevolent chemical. But to each their own.


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## Brewtality (Jul 25, 2007)

mrthreeplates said:


> Hi Brewtality,
> 
> Edit: Sorry, I meant to say: is this the same electrical contact cleaner you mention?


That should work just fine:thumbsup:


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## chrishei1 (May 12, 2008)

i normally just put a little MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) in a spray bottle and go to town on my whole bike makes my grips nice and tacky


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## mrthreeplates (Oct 26, 2010)

Brewtality said:


> That should work just fine:thumbsup:


Super, thanks for the confirmation!


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## Pedalphile (Aug 6, 2008)

chrishei1 said:


> i normally just put a little MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) in a spray bottle and go to town on my whole bike makes my grips nice and tacky


FTW


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## Fix the Spade (Aug 4, 2008)

mellowdave said:


> There is a LOT of bad advice here.
> I'm leaning toward it not being such a benevolent chemical. But to each their own.


You misread my comment entirely.

My advice was to use Isopropyl alcohol, acetone is not for cleaning.

Regards acetone itself, see comment #22
I am well aware of it's many (many many) health risks.
But, if used for the right tasks and treated with appropriate respect, acetone is completely harmless, it will never try to mug you down a back alley or attack the postman. The problems begin with the workman, not the tool.


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## Scott O (Aug 5, 2004)

Kasper said:


> But when I later had to explain it to the professor in charge of the lab he responded "No Kasper, It wasn't acetic acid that burnt your friend, it was YOU who burnt him"
> 
> Kasper


Awesome!


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## Fix the Spade (Aug 4, 2008)

Kasper said:


> "No Kasper, It wasn't acetic acid that burnt your friend, it was YOU who burnt him"


You're professor sounds like my kind'a guy.


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## mrthreeplates (Oct 26, 2010)

One other data point for using acetone for this application: FSA's assembly procedure actually calls for cleaning with acetone (or similar product) prior to using the Loctite 641.

In any case, I liked the idea of using the contact cleaner instead as previously recommended. Hopefully, it is as good if not better at the job.

I've gone ahead and re-assembled my cranks. Now I have to wait 24 hours for the loctite 641 to cure, then I'll test them..

BTW: While I had the crank out, I also cleaned and used anti-seize on the chainring bolts.

Hopefully, the bottom bracket "creak" that was driving me crazy was either the crank arm or chainring bolts.

Thanks to all that have offered their advice.

Cheers,

George


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## debaucherous (Jul 2, 2004)

*are you sure?*



caesar148 said:


> ...snip...
> BTW, adding a little acetone to your gas tank will improve your vehicle's fuel economy ...


That statement doesn't even make sense. Think about it - if it were true, wouldn't someone try to sell the gas with acetone already in it to make $?

Here is some info: http://www.snopes.com/autos/techno/acetone.asp


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## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

bankerboy said:


> Key ingredient in nail polish remover. If you have wife, daughter, girlfriend or are a bit goth, you already have a bottle or two in your house.


Yeah I'm well aware. I still don't use it on my bikes though.


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## mrthreeplates (Oct 26, 2010)

*Some pictures for the curious*

Here are some pictures that might make it a bit clearer what exactly I was trying to do.

The reason I took apart the cranks was to chase a creak. In the process I discovered that the previous installer used grease on the splines (a definite no-no and explicitly warned against by FSA for these cranks in their instructions).

This was particularly painful because I had to special order loctite 641 from a local industrial supply house ($20). Hardware stores, auto part stores, and electronic shops don't carry it.

Anyway, as I mentioned earlier, I hope this fixes my "creak".


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## debaucherous (Jul 2, 2004)

*Funny...*



chrishei1 said:


> i normally just put a little MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) in a spray bottle and go to town on my whole bike makes my grips nice and tacky


But, now you are trolling.


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## The Ola Flash (Apr 2, 2010)

The key to using "nasty" chemicals is to protect yourself while you use them. Use chemical proof gloves,work in a well ventilated area or wear a respirator. Safty glasses would probally be a good idea also. A little common sense goes a long way.


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## mellowdave (Feb 3, 2010)

Fix the Spade said:


> You misread my comment entirely.
> 
> My advice was to use Isopropyl alcohol, acetone is not for cleaning.
> 
> ...


ha, my comment wasnt directed at you Spade it was just a generalization, and you assume that I or others here have never been mugged by a chemical in a dark alley, I find this hurtful and very assumptive on your part, as do the rest of who live in the silent shame of having been acosted by Acetone, or any of its running buddies...


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## EJ_92606 (Jul 11, 2004)

no grease on crank splines? I've always done it on my Shimano cranks and not had a problem...why would they specify no grease there and do they spec loctite on the splines?


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## Fix the Spade (Aug 4, 2008)

mellowdave said:


> I find this hurtful and very assumptive on your part.


My apologies, I wasn't aware that Acetone had moved up (down?) in the solvent gangs pecking order. I guess it's friend Acetylene been being a bad influence, hope you make a quick recovery.


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## Brewtality (Jul 25, 2007)

EJ_92606 said:


> no grease on crank splines? I've always done it on my Shimano cranks and not had a problem...why would they specify no grease there and do they spec loctite on the splines?


"Grease" on crank splines and other bike related components is an old school way of preventing dis-similar metals from galling or siezing together. The term grease is a little misleading however. Grease is a lubricant. For the purpose of preventing galling, anti-sieze would be far better. 
But in the last decade, the market has been flooded with a number of products that are far superior to anti-sieze in their ability to prevent galling and improve the holding grip on cylindrical and splined components.
Locktite 641 Is a light duty retaining compound that will prevent the softer aluminum splines on the cranks from moving around and wearing out on the harder steel splines of the bottom bracket spindle. Its breakaway yield is low enough to allow the cranks to be dis-assembled for repairs.
Locktite 609 is a product that I use everyday at work (troubleshooting and repairing industrial diesel engines). It is similar to 641, but much higher in strength.
Caterpillar Retaining Compound, p/n 4C-9507 is another high strength retaining comound. The Caterpillar product and 609 are usefull in the cycling world for retaining bearings in place in hub bodies or bottom brackets. Also usefull when pressing headset cups into head tubes.


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## nickav21 (Dec 25, 2009)

Slightly OT, but is it totally crazy to use brake parts cleaner to clean a chain and RD pulleys? I know I used to use it to clean just about every car part known to man since it leaves zero residue, so it makes sense that it would work well on a bike drivetrain too. Any input is appreciated!


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## Trail Ninja (Sep 25, 2008)

dblvanos said:


> I use acetone to clean rubber scuff marks off the hull of my boat. Not in love with the smell but a small dab with a rag and the marks come right off.


I use acetone to dissolve fiberglass & clean my rollers and chop gun. Be careful where you use it on your boat.


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## mrthreeplates (Oct 26, 2010)

*"Creak" is gone!*

A followup:

I took my bike for a test ride after reassembling the cranks and my "creak" is gone. I used to get it when climbing with high torque on the pedals. I figured it was coming from the bottom bracket area since I'd hear the creak regardless of whether I was standing or seated, and regardless of pressure on the handle bars. I had already checked the pedals, spokes and wheel quick releases.

In any case, no more creak and I rode up several steep hills. YEAH!!!!

I attribute the "fix" to one of three things I did:

1) Loctite 641 on the crank spindle splines (v.s. grease before)
2) Anti-seize applied to the chainring bolts (no grease that I could detect)
3) Anti-seize applied to the bottom bracket shell threads (v.s. greased before, and over torqued)

I also made sure I used the correct torque settings during reassembly.

I "tested" the loctite 641 on a bolt just to see how strong the hold was and how quickly it would cure. Yes, I know loctite 641 isn't a thread locker, but I didn't have another set of crank arms to test it on!

After about 24 hours I disassembled the bolt and was impressed how much holding power the loctite had. Note how the loctite only "cured" in the areas where the nut and bolt sealed the threads. When exposed to air, loctite won't cure (or does so very slowly). This property is called "anaerobic" curing. Interesting stuff that I didn't know before.

I hope the creak doesn't come back and if I were to place a bet, I think the loctite 641 was the real fix of the three above.

Back to riding!


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## EJ_92606 (Jul 11, 2004)

Brewtality said:


> "Grease" on crank splines and other bike related components is an old school way of preventing dis-similar metals from galling or siezing together. The term grease is a little misleading however. Grease is a lubricant. For the purpose of preventing galling, anti-sieze would be far better.
> But in the last decade, the market has been flooded with a number of products that are far superior to anti-sieze in their ability to prevent galling and improve the holding grip on cylindrical and splined components.
> Locktite 641 Is a light duty retaining compound that will prevent the softer aluminum splines on the cranks from moving around and wearing out on the harder steel splines of the bottom bracket spindle. Its breakaway yield is low enough to allow the cranks to be dis-assembled for repairs.
> Locktite 609 is a product that I use everyday at work (troubleshooting and repairing industrial diesel engines). It is similar to 641, but much higher in strength.
> Caterpillar Retaining Compound, p/n 4C-9507 is another high strength retaining comound. The Caterpillar product and 609 are usefull in the cycling world for retaining bearings in place in hub bodies or bottom brackets. Also usefull when pressing headset cups into head tubes.


Great info. thanks. Can I find loctite 641 at Home Depot or Lowe's?


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## Brewtality (Jul 25, 2007)

EJ_92606 said:


> Great info. thanks. Can I find loctite 641 at Home Depot or Lowe's?


Not likely.
Try Grainger or Napa can possibly order it in.


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## Brewtality (Jul 25, 2007)

nickav21 said:


> Slightly OT, but is it totally crazy to use brake parts cleaner to clean a chain and RD pulleys? I know I used to use it to clean just about every car part known to man since it leaves zero residue, so it makes sense that it would work well on a bike drivetrain too. Any input is appreciated!


It will work, but its highly ineffecient. A can of brake clean is what? $4 - $5? And you might need a new can every time you clean your chain. Brake clean is very hazardous to paint, as well as any rubber or plastic parts. Most RD pulleys are some form of plastic. It would be a real shame to spray down you RD pulleys and then watch them melt away:eekster:

A can of mineral spirits and an empty paint can is about $10. Pour half the can of mineral spirits into the paint can. Soak your chain, cassette, chainrings, whatever, in the mineral spirits. Then rinse off with water. The one can will last for years.


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## mrthreeplates (Oct 26, 2010)

*Also try Fastenal*



Brewtality said:


> Not likely.
> Try Grainger or Napa can possibly order it in.


I got my loctite 641 from Fastenal. The local store didn't stock it, but was kind enough to order it for me at no extra cost (it just took a week for them to get it).

You can also order it on Amazon.


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## aaronka970 (May 7, 2010)

So, it sounds like electrical contact cleaner could be used as a good general parts cleaner in places you don't want residue and need a quick dry.

I'm thinking: good for cleaning fork parts during a fork rebuild. Thoughts?

Just trying to confirm this stuff will be safe on all my fork bits and pieces.


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## sopwithcamel (Oct 2, 2007)

As a final degreaser and cleaner you want to be using a Rubbing alcohol and preferably the ethyl alcohol kind as the body can handle it in small doses.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

I use acetone for most applications that demands a solvent, its the safest solvent there is except water and ethanol. And ethanol usually works like crap. Acetone is produced in your body as we speak...

LD50 for acetone is more than 2 gram/kg if you drink it.
Isoprop is 5 gram though.

Toxicology

Acetone is believed to exhibit only slight toxicity in normal use, and there is no strong evidence of chronic health effects if basic precautions are followed.[14]

At very high vapor concentrations, acetone is irritating and, like many other solvents, may depress the central nervous system. It is also a severe irritant on contact with eyes, and a potential pulmonary aspiration risk. In one documented case, ingestion of a substantial amount of acetone led to systemic toxicity, although the patient eventually fully recovered.[15] Some sources estimate LD50 for human ingestion at 1.159 g/kg; LD50 inhalation by mice is given as 44 g/m3, over 4 hours.[16]

Acetone has been shown to have anticonvulsant effects in animal models of epilepsy, in the absence of toxicity, when administered in millimolar concentrations.[17] It has been hypothesized that the high-fat low-carbohydrate ketogenic diet used clinically to control drug-resistant epilepsy in children works by elevating acetone in the brain.[17]

* EPA EPCRA Delisting (1995). EPA removed acetone from the list of "toxic chemicals" maintained under Section 313 of the Emergency Planning and Community Right to Know Act (EPCRA). In making that decision, EPA conducted an extensive review of the available toxicity data on acetone and found that acetone "exhibits acute toxicity only at levels that greatly exceed releases and resultant exposures," and further that acetone "exhibits low toxicity in chronic studies."

* Genotoxicity. Acetone has been tested in more than two dozen in vitro and in vivo assays. These studies indicate that acetone is not genotoxic.

* Carcinogenicity. EPA in 1995 concluded, "There is currently no evidence to suggest a concern for carcinogenicity."(EPCRA Review, described in Section 3.3). NTP scientists have recommended against chronic toxicity/carcinogenicity testing of acetone because "the prechronic studies only demonstrated a very mild toxic response at very high doses in rodents."

* Neurotoxicity and Developmental Neurotoxicity. The neurotoxic potential of both acetone and isopropanol, the metabolic precursor of acetone, have been extensively studied. These studies demonstrate that although exposure to high doses of acetone may cause transient central nervous system effects, acetone is not a neurotoxicant. A guideline developmental neurotoxicity study has been conducted with isopropanol, and no developmental neurotoxic effects were identified, even at the highest dose tested. (SIAR, pp. 1, 25, 31).

* Environmental. When the EPA exempted acetone from regulation as a volatile organic compound (VOC) in 1995, EPA stated that this exemption would "contribute to the achievement of several important environmental goals and would support EPA's pollution prevention efforts." 60 Fed. Reg. 31,634 (June 16, 1995). 60 Fed. Reg. 31,634 (June 16, 1995). EPA noted that acetone could be used "as a substitute for several compounds that are listed as hazardous air pollutants (HAP) under section 112 of the [Clean Air] Act.


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## Cedarbranchbiker1 (Apr 7, 2011)

Back when I was a fireman, we had a fella burn his house down. Was stripping furniture in the house:nono: ut: when the acetone fumes found a way into the furnace and proceeded to ignite and burn the house down. He got out okay.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

I mix acetone with soap to clean my hands after working with my bike, works much better than ethanol and soap, I use a 1:1 ratio or so, it works really well. Plastic grain soap is better though.

I have not found that paint stripping ability of it, possibly it works on watercolors?? I did however experience a bit of boosting to my dichloromethane stripper (serious cancer ultra edition) when I added some acetone. I read this did wonders ina pdf about paint stripping and it did. Acetone will stain/melt some types of (crap) plastics though.


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## FireDog46 (Jan 13, 2004)

acetone...
the original baggy high!


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## mjs1231 (Jan 4, 2013)

*propper chain cleaning*



car bone said:


> I mix acetone with soap to clean my hands after working with my bike, works much better than ethanol and soap, I use a 1:1 ratio or so, it works really well. Plastic grain soap is better though.
> 
> I have not found that paint stripping ability of it, possibly it works on watercolors?? I did however experience a bit of boosting to my dichloromethane stripper (serious cancer ultra edition) when I added some acetone. I read this did wonders ina pdf about paint stripping and it did. Acetone will stain/melt some types of (crap) plastics though.


im going to layout what i have learned and the equipment i used it on.

8 speed
shimano 11x26 cassette
sram 8 speed chain wih q link
shimano xt h II crank dual
sram x7 derailure w tacx pulleys

run chain cleaner till fliud stays clear. usualy 2 to 4 sessions
wipe down drivetrain
spin chain back ward and use dawn liquid dish soap
take chain off and wipe drow drive train again but more detailed.
put chain in a metal container and add 1/2 cup of acetone.
shake lightly 5 times and let sit for 5 mins. shake and drain.
wipe off and install chain on bike
let dry at least 30 mins.

add finishline a wet dry teflon lube.
be generous and wipe off extra 
do this 3 times
let sit for 10 mins

ride.

this is the best result for removing the shipping grease Also.
what you can see is not thats important, its what is inside the rollers that matter most.

the hidden 3 demensional bearing they use.

or

clean the chain rings and cassette thuroughly and slap on a new chain and ride it till it starts to grind. repeat.

i fave all the above methods depending on the application.

thanks.


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## mjs1231 (Jan 4, 2013)

*part 2*



mjs1231 said:


> im going to layout what i have learned and the equipment i used it on.
> 
> 8 speed
> shimano 11x26 cassette
> ...


forgot

once the chain is stripped it wears fast.

i think the chains were made to be a tho away part.

best performance will be a dry lube
best longivity will be oe grease/wax

best way is up to you.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

My chaincleaning consists of this now:

First soak and shake in white spirit.
then acetone to get the white spirit off
then I spray it with starting gas (diethyl ether 50% or so)

now the chain is ultra clean

then i soak it and shake it in mix or hydraulic oil/motor oil/some synthetic grease/molycoat/copper paste/teflon containing oil/crc 556

done.


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## BrentP (Jul 6, 2007)

For things like that I use camping fuel. It's less aggressive than acetone, doesn't dissolve plastic or paint during short term use, and evaporates immediately leaving no residue.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Dear god. 

Use a bucket, long-bristle brush and dish soap. Anything that you can take off (shimano hollowtech cranks) can be easily cleaned with the same. The only difference at the bike shop was that we'd throw parts in a parts-washer, but really you can get the same effect by just cleaning by hand with soap and water. The benefit of the parts washer is we could do other stuff while the parts were being washed. 

I do have some orange bulk degreaser, but that's rare for me to use. Otherwise, just soap and water and a long brush that can get in the nooks and crannys.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Acetone works great for removing glue residue after you peel off stickers.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Having not read any responses in this thread but just the original post. My question is how old is the OP. I mean really isn't this something you learn as a pre teen and a teenager at the latest. Putting a solvent in a plastic cup. Really!


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## SQUIRRELSHOOTR (Jan 8, 2013)

jeffw-13 said:


> Get yourself a can of brake cleaner at the local auto parts store.


I'll second that. I had an old cassette that was super dull and nasty. Took it off and sprayed some brake cleaner on it. 30 seconds later, there was black watery stuff that dripped onto the ground and the cassette looked new.


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## Stephbaker (Dec 13, 2018)

mrthreeplates said:


> Just thought I'd share my little screw-up for your amusement:
> 
> *A procedure I do NOT recommend*
> 
> ...


That was some really bad experimentation. I was really scared while I was reading the whole post. I am glad that you are safe and that you had taken the needed precautions like wearing gloves, etc. I guess you could have just googled grease remover and would be done with the whole deal without ever touching acetone. It was really lucky of you to not get hurt. Please do not use acetone even with q-tips or whatever. just go to a hardware store and get some degreaser instead of experimentation on your own. And rubbing alcohol is a bad idea, too. I see many people have given some good tips please consider those, too.


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

DIRTJUNKIE said:


> Having not read any responses in this thread but just the original post. My question is how old is the OP. I mean really isn't this something you learn as a pre teen and a teenager at the latest. Putting a solvent in a plastic cup. Really!


Acetone dissolves LDPE plastic; HDPE is OK. Be careful using acetone on plastic. Not sure about the safety of using on paint. It's a powerful degreaser and evaporates fast. It's also flammable.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Holy old Post Batman.

Simple green or denatured alcohol only. If my chain is really cruddy sometimes I'll spray some brake cleaner in a rag to wipe it.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

Stephbaker said:


> That was some really bad experimentation. I was really scared while I was reading the whole post. I am glad that you are safe and that you had taken the needed precautions like wearing gloves, etc. I guess you could have just googled grease remover and would be done with the whole deal without ever touching acetone. It was really lucky of you to not get hurt. Please do not use acetone even with q-tips or whatever. just go to a hardware store and get some degreaser instead of experimentation on your own. And rubbing alcohol is a bad idea, too. I see many people have given some good tips please consider those, too.


Kind of late advice for a 2011 thread.


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## burtronix (Jun 5, 2006)

The late sheldon Brown wrote the definitive advice on chan cleaning. I like this quote from the article:

"Experts disagree on this subject, sometimes bitterly. This is sometimes considered a "religious" matter in the bicycle community, and much vituperative invective has been uttered in this regard between different schismatic cults."

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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