# Would you buy this 3xCree DIY Housing : market survey ?



## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

I have now built 9x this housing for my local bike group at cost. Problem is that more folks want it and I am out of bar stock and bored outta my mind making these. 
So I am going to ask a local machine shop to churn these housings out - PROVIDED THERE IS SUFFICIENT INTEREST. Since I will get a bulk discount if I make somewhere between 20-50. 

Please note - there is nothing for sale yet. When there is I will post a classified add. 

Would you buy one housing at ~70USD ??? 
This should include HAii anodizing, but a diy job in my kitchen ( so quality may not be fantastic - but will be better then plain)

You will need to do the rest of the work yourself such as drilling the right size cable hole (predillled with a starter) and sorting out your own mount - it will be threaded for a m4 or m5 and is ideal for the standard cateye mount. 

The housing will look similar to the last 2 on the right. 
weight is about 110g.
heatsink is integrated 1 cm al plate. 
design as follows (waterproof via silicone)


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## dazzat3 (May 4, 2008)

*DIY housing Interest*

Hi Heatstroke,
I would buy one if you are willing to mail it out to Australia:thumbsup:


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

price would include mailing up to timbuktu
i have some more photos posted here somewhere


also will post some more when i have the proto ready for the machine shop and after i have a shot at anodizing it


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## sstefanov (Sep 18, 2005)

Looks very good. Will buy 2 at least. May be 3.

Stefan


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

heatstroke..you are in the gray area close to spam...... I know you will be making them at cost... but at least buy a classified (it's just $2  ) and link it.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Crissillo, thanks for the info. But I am not selling anything yet, this post was to find out if I have sufficient interest to proceed. I need somewhere about 20-50 to be able to get a decent price. If there is sufficient interest - then I will purchase an add to sell the housing. 
Apologies if my original post was not clear enough


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

heatstroke said:


> Crissillo, thanks for the info. But I am not selling anything yet, this post was to find out if I have sufficient interest to proceed. I need somewhere about 20-50 to be able to get a decent price. If there is sufficient interest - then I will purchase an add to sell the housing.
> Apologies if my original post was not clear enough


Yeah.. I understand.... it was just a friendly reminder  ... no worries...

hope there is enough interest... the housing looks real good


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## dazzat3 (May 4, 2008)

*Housing only?*

Heatstroke, Have you considered complete build kits or do you only intend on selling the housings?

I'm may possibly be up for two housings, upon seeing protype images. Bring on those images


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## Hoodoo (Sep 20, 2006)

If the price included delivery to the UK then I would probably buy 2 units. Do you use the triple Cree module from Cutter?


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Clarification & update. 
yes these can either use the triple or quad. 
- test anodization was a 50% success - problem with the die not being a decent color ( the search for Dylon continues)

Have not dropped the proto yet a the machine shop so no quote yet


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

How is the mount for these housing achieved? off the shelf? salvaging from another light? What type of push switch is that?


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

As mentioned in the original post - cateye works well. 
I use this : 
H-31 Oversize Bracket : http://www.cateye.com/store/parts.php?cid=2_14

and 
Spacer : http://www.cateye.com/store/parts.php?cid=2_24

which I salvaged from old lights.

The switch : 
standard Momentary switch from the bflex/maxflex kit
It is potted in fast epoxy on the inside of the tailcap. 
A rubber cap is superglued to the outside of the traicap in the machined recess.


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## toosh (Jan 31, 2008)

unfortunantely spacres are *** Out of Stock *** ;/

anyone know where to order them?


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## Guest (May 16, 2008)

What colour will the anodizing be?


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## dazzat3 (May 4, 2008)

Hows things progressing?

I am toying with using the cheap $42.69 USD Cutter triple "500 lumens", running rechargable AA's Ni-MH - 12V.

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut790

Have you used this Cutter kit? It should make for a good value light with your housing!!!


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

dazzat3 said:


> I am toying with using the cheap $42.69 USD Cutter triple "500 lumens", running rechargable AA's Ni-MH - 12V.
> 
> http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut790


For an extra 50 you can get a triple R2 and a bflex driver. 750lm, thats a significant upgrade. 
You really need a dimmer on anything over 400lm, even if only to extend run times. Most of my riding is at a level below this(but it is nice to pump it up to 700 when speeds pick up)!.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

dazzat3,
I've used that kit in 4 lights now - and 3 more are on the way. Got them at the sale price of 35. It is an awesome kit and really great value for money. For some reason the one of Q4s with this driver are slightly brighter than my r2s and Q5 on the Bflex. Both lights are pulling between 7.5 watts on my wattsup meter. I can not compare the remaining lights I've built with that kit as I have yet to receive the cutters narrow optice (currently using Kathod - which are poor)

light update: Anodizing - I have 50/50 success with it - using inkjet dye. The finish is not great - no ChrisKing finish. Color is purple or black matt. Honestly - I may need to just stick to clear matt anodized since color shows up every single blemish. 


Machining. The housing is still with the machine shop waiting for the man to have a bit of free time to make a test run. Sorry - but I can not rush him..


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Heatstroke How are you doing the anodising and how difficult is it .

can you post some pics and a how to do it maybe.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Troutie-mtb,
Disclaimer/Health warning first : Annodizing chemicals can make you look like Freddy Kruger :

Now here are my links - i'm too lazy to shoot some photos. 
The only item I am using is a wattsup meter to monitor the current and a 12V 5A transformer (rectified) + a dimming switch to generate the appropraite current levels /

: 
http://anodizing.blogspot.com/
http://asuwlink.uwyo.edu/~metal/anodizing2.html
http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html
http://www.bryanpryor.com/Anodizing.php


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## dazzat3 (May 4, 2008)

Black anodising would be cool... I'm not fussy, a clear anodised finish would be practical. The housing looks "the goods" regardless!:thumbsup:


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## OldMTBfreak (Apr 8, 2006)

*housing*

That looks nice. I'll fer sure take 2 housings. I have a DIY Cutters light(MR-11 size) and a DIY Iblasst(MR-16 size). Both use three Q4's each. The Cutter's lamp assy runs very warm during stationary use. Not a problem when riding. I'll be putting some R2's in that new housing.


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

how about no anodizing and let the customer choose to do what they want. I would personally polish it.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

I count about 8 housings in the interest list, with 4 more here that makes 12, I will take a risk and machine 20.
I am scrapping the anodizing plans , the HA2 was not sturdy eough, I will check on powder coating. 
Price is down to ~60USD shipped - housing only and provided shipping is as low as I expect - so I need to check shippign cost.



Will post an add once it is confirmed to machined and get some photos out.


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

heatstroke said:


> I count about 8 housings in the interest list, with 4 more here that makes 12, I will take a risk and machine 20.
> I am scrapping the anodizing plans , the HA2 was not sturdy eough, I will check on powder coating.
> *Price is down to ~60USD shipped *- housing only and provided shipping is as low as I expect - so I need to check shippign cost.
> 
> Will post an add once it is confirmed to machined and get some photos out.


Shipped, where?? Europe too? 

Greetings -. Saludos

msxtr


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## mjzraz (Oct 8, 2005)

heatstroke said:


> I count about 8 housings in the interest list, with 4 more here that makes 12, I will take a risk and machine 20.


I have an interest in buying one and might be able to convince a friend or two. Where have You had luck getting the cateye spacer? I check that cateye spare parts website every week since January and it's always out of stock. I emailed cateye over 6 weeks ago and they said they would be back in stock in 6 weeks.. well not yet they aren't.


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

mjzraz said:


> I have an interest in buying one and might be able to convince a friend or two. Where have You had luck getting the cateye spacer? I check that cateye spare parts website every week since January and it's always out of stock. I emailed cateye over 6 weeks ago and they said they would be back in stock in 6 weeks.. well not yet they aren't.


You can buy the cateye spacer here, here or here with handlebar mount. Nevertheless, we will hope that YES came with the cateye spacer 

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## peterh88 (Apr 6, 2007)

heatstroke said:


> I count about 8 housings in the interest list, with 4 more here that makes 12, I will take a risk and machine 20.
> I am scrapping the anodizing plans , the HA2 was not sturdy eough, I will check on powder coating.
> Price is down to ~60USD shipped - housing only and provided shipping is as low as I expect - so I need to check shippign cost.
> 
> Will post an add once it is confirmed to machined and get some photos out.


$60.00 usd each shipped to Australia.
I will take 4 housings thanks, let me know when they are ready and you need the cash.

Cheers
Peter


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Thanks everyone- i've asked the machine shop to make 20. Waiting for the final quote and to see if his sample is up to spec. Those that have confirmed will get first dibs. 

ive posted an add to pay my $2 (no real info on my add). I will update here when I have something to show. 

Just a reminder though. This will be just the housing , some assembly required : 
A pilot hole will be drilled for the switch & wire. 
A m5 hole will be threaded for the mount 
A bit of inner tube will be provided - punched out for waterproofing the switch. 
you will need :
1. to supply your own switch and drill out the pilot hole to the appropriate diameter. 
2. to supply your own wire and drill out the wire pilot hole to the appropriate diameter. 
3. Hot glue / epoxy your own switch in place and superglue the rubber cap over the switch in its recess. 
4. drill the heat sink for the wires for the cutters led. ( but i may pre drill for the 4 up and 3 up kit if i have a sample)
5. will need to artic adhesive the mcpcb in place
6. source your own mount to fit the m5 hole drilled in the housing (cateye mentioned above) - some thing else may work
7. waterproof with a bit of silicon
8. BAttery, connectors etc are all your own job. 

I'll provide a photo instruction later, and pics of the final machined housing as well


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## slaw (Apr 6, 2004)

I'm interested in 2 housings, posted to Australia.

Cheers.


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## doogs (May 29, 2007)

put me down for 1 with post to Australia


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Another Update
I am just back from Leave 
- Machinist promised to have the sample the end of this week 
- I found dylon so may try anodizing again

I count the following firm : 
Slaw 2
Doogs 1
Oldmtbfreak 2
peter888 4
AndyW 1
SStefanov 2
People over here : 4

total Firm: 16

Maybe : 
People over here 2
hoodoo 2
dazzat3 1
mjzraz 1
Peter888 bucketloads 
Total maybe : 6 + bucketloads

So I am firm on 16 and am possibly sold on all 20. 


Cheers
Rich


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## sstefanov (Sep 18, 2005)

I will be also in for 2.

Thanks,
Stefan


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## peterh88 (Apr 6, 2007)

Personally for me you don't need to go to the trouble of anodizing.
I would prefer the housings to be natural finish, that way I can decide what finish if any I want to apply.
Cheers

Peter


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

3rd ? Update. 
20 Housings machined, just searching for the grub screw and can start shipping - should be shipping by weekend. 
Will post photos ASAP.


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## doogs (May 29, 2007)

is it too late to change my order to 2 if there is another available?


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## Frs1661 (Jun 9, 2008)

Curious how the anodizing went; I'm thinking about machining/anodizing a different design myself.


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## Hoodoo (Sep 20, 2006)

Definately still interested in two housings. Is the price still the same as the $70 each including delivery as quoted?


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

We have hit what might be a minor speed bump or a road block . 
Machinist is trying to pull a quick one on me so I may tell him to go fly a kite if he continues to be unreasonable.


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## Hoodoo (Sep 20, 2006)

When it's all finished, how would you like to be paid? Will PayPal be ok?


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

IF it ever finishes !! Machinist wanted to jack up costs by more than 30%, ( but after he had 99% finished them, and after he agreed on the cost )
At that price I can't afford to ship them - so I told him he is not reasonable and I can not sell them if I ask buyers to pay more to cover his greed. ( since nightlighting would then probably be a better buy at that range )

Worst case scenario is I walk, and leave him stranded with 20 expensive AL salt/pepper shakers - and I am stuck with 4 LED kits. 

Best case is he sticks to the agreed price.

Mid case is a minor increase in his cost which I can still cover within the original quote to you folks. 

Keep your fingers crossed 
I will go for paypal.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

*Photo update*

These are photos of the 90% stage of machining. Still missing the grub screw, mounting hole and a couple of fins ( can only be done after drilling and tapping the mount)
hot off the lathe - still with oil and a lot of swarf


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

*continued*

pics continued


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## WeLight (Aug 12, 2007)

Hate to see this stall, dont know if it helps, but anyone who buys this housing, I will make a special offer, the loaded PCB and optic
(3 way) at AUD21.95 
(4 way) at AUD26.95
Your choice of narrow or medium Optic
Q5 bin WH or WC tint( 95 lumens per watt) 256 lumens at 1 Amp

max of 20, 

PM me,


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Cheers Mark, 
Unfortunately it is of little help to me as I am not doing the final construction for most of these and I've already ordered all that I need for the local folks( for whom I am building the lights) . What I can do however is to pass on to you the names of the folks that are buying ? 
Thanks for the great offer.
Richard


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

*FINALLY done !*

The machinist and I have agreed a minor increase in his price. He under estimated the machining time - took him 3 hrs each. I am paying him 7USD more per housing but I think I can still ship within the price quote of 60 since a couple of folks are ordering several which will fit in 1 shipment.
I will get the housings tonight and post all the photos.

... and here are a couple of photos of the finished products...
well almost finished - just need to check the tolerances ( make sure the bflex will fit, and lense and also to machine the recess for the rubber cap) 
also decided not drill the hole for the wire as a couple have asked not for it to be drilled. Its a minor job anyway and everyones wires will be different

if you want the wire hole - let me know.

One thing - grub screw is a smidgen long. you can file it down to fit.
Cheers
Richard


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

10 sold: 
10 to go


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## Hoodoo (Sep 20, 2006)

I've sent you a response to your message


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

how is the front lens collar holder secured to the housing?


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

it will be glued- i prefer to use rvt silicon. There was insufficient thickness to machine thread as the bar was 1.5 inch or 38mm, with the lense at 35mm, there needs to be 0.75mm - taking the diameter up to 35.5mm. that leaves about 1.75 (2.5mm) for the collar. We tried to get 40mm bar but it was not available - only 2" was available.
RTV will be waterproof and also strong enough to hold, but can be taken off with brute force. If you want to you could also insert a small screw through the base of the collar into the body - it will be hidden by the mount - strictly not necessary though. I have made 5 threaded and 4 glued. The threaded versions are too flimsy - one drop and you can dent the collar.

quick anodizing update. just tried the dylon (jungle green) did not take at all, either the temps got too warm during the anodizing and the pores closed up or the green is too coarse to be absorbed into the pores. May stick to clear from now on.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

4 more gone


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

*photo instructions*

Step1 
Prewire your bflex or other driver and switch too
Here I have prewired the bflex for the 4 up. 
For the 3 up I will be using the cutters constant current driver ( the one with the fat capacitor)

Step 2. 
Drill the wire hole through the tail cap. I am using speaker cable - hence 2 holes you see.

Step 3.
Drill the hole through the heatsink for your 4up led or countersink/enlarge the existing hole for the 3 up led.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

*step 4*

prepare your switch by dabbing a bit of silicon around the switch and place it over the hole

Wait for the silicone to cure

Get your power wires threaded through the tail cap

Then you will solder up all wires to the switch and then cast the whole of the tail cap in 5 min epoxy.

BE VERY CAREFUL that there are no holes in the switch of the tail cap that would leak epoxy into the switch

...............................to be continued after my silicon cures............................


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

*step 5*

Once the silicon and the epoxy is cured. 
Solder the wires to the LEDs and feed through the hole.
Solder up the Bflex driver to the switch in the tail cap. 
Then Mix up your AA and apply a thin coat to the rear of the mcpcb.
Find something cylindrical to apply pressure to the mcpcb while the AA cures. A plastic sleeve from a outboard BB is perfect.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

*Step 6*

Use the BB spacer to hold apply pressure. Weights or rubber band works.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

*7.*

get your battery ready ?
4X18650 2400mahr cells.

before you ask - the green housing is my only partial success with color anodizing. the tail cap and optics collar did not take color - again a temp problem


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

*final step*

last step. use quick set epoxy to secure the rubber switch cover into the recess. Wipe off excess, then once set - install the mounts. In the photo below I have used 2 strips of double sided foam tape + screw. This is temporary, I will switch out to thicker foam material (the stuff used on antislip furniture feet)- similar to mouse pad.

Last, use silicon on the collar to secure in place. Smear some around the collar and also on the perimeter of the optics. Install and wipe off excess.


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## WeLight (Aug 12, 2007)

heatstroke said:


> prepare your switch by dabbing a bit of silicon around the switch and place it over the hole
> 
> Wait for the silicone to cure
> 
> ...


Hi Heatstroke
You can drill a hole through the centre of the quad MCPCB and draw the wires between the optic/leds, to the centre... works well


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Thanks for the tip. I found the hole beside the hole for the optics leg a bit of a tight fit for 2 wires - so I dremeled out the hole a smidgen. 

The quad R2 I purchased was absolutely fantastic ! Renders every hid we had around obsolete !
However I am still puzzle why the 3up Q4s with the cheapo boost drive are a little brighter than the R2 3up bflex kits I have. It has been consistent with all the 3 of the r2 kits and 3 of the q4kits now. It looks like the q4s are slightly colder too.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

*The Final Tally*

21 housings in total 
16 shipped overseas ( actually waiting for 1 final payment to ship ) 
5 built up for the local boys .

My books come out in the black to the Sum of $142USD, This is divided into 2 between : 
myself - the shipper, designer, QCer.... etc
William... the man negotiating with tthe evil machinist, hunter of parts etc.

Obviously not a serious profit making exercise. Apart from the hiccup with the machinist - it went reasonably smoothly but a bit slow.

I would appreciate if the folks that attempt this light build post any mods they do - suggest any changes/improvements

2nd BATCH ? A couple of chaps wanted more, so PM me - price will/should be the same.

EMS will be $15USD additional per pack of 3 or less
Registered airmail is included in the cost.


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## slaw (Apr 6, 2004)

Thanks for all your effort and the instructions.

Hopefully it won't be too long after I receive mine that I get around to building them up.


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## peterh88 (Apr 6, 2007)

Thanks Heatstroke,
I received my housings on Monday, that was the quickest OS delivery I have ever received.
Your patience with my multiple emails has been appreciated. :thumbsup: 
I hope to have a couple of the lights working by the end of this weekend.
By the way, these housings are very professional looking I am very pleased with them.
Another order is on the the soon.

Cheers


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## Hoodoo (Sep 20, 2006)

Hi, I've just bought two of heatstrokes housings and wondered if your offer still stands? 

Can I buy an additional optic? I am unsure whether to go for narrow or medium. I would like to be able to swap them around as an experiment.

Could you suggest a suitable driver as my battery is (currently 14.8V). I would need more of a buck than a boost, unless I had two units wired in series.

Any plans to extend the offer from the Q5's to the R2's?

Thanks.


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## OldMTBfreak (Apr 8, 2006)

*Housings*

Oh Richard, you out performed my expections. Those housings are sweet. They fit together well. I haven't gotten them wired up yet. I post a picture. Took about 2 weeks to get here to NW Florida. Is Malaysia a hotbed of biking? Thanks


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## doogs (May 29, 2007)

Received my housings today, the workmanship well and truly exceeded my expectations. Thanks Heatstroke!!


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