# Looking to go 1x10 or 1x11 on my Trek X-Caliber



## AWDV8 (Jul 19, 2014)

I've had my Trek x-cal 7 for a few years now (2015 model) and haven't done any mods at all. I'm looking to change things up and thought about ditching the 3x9 for a 1x10 or 1x11. I'm not sure if one is better or not possible etc. 

With the trails I'm local to I think it would be fun and I can ditch some weight and clean up the look.

I did a few searches and never really landed on a thread that was a dummy guide. I visited my LBS and they just wanted to sell me a new bike so that wasn't helpful. 

Is this just as simple as buying a new group set? Or is there some things I need to do differently based on what my bike currently has (Acera 3x9). 

Thanks for the help!


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## l'oiseau (May 5, 2015)

Should not be very difficult.

I'd start here...

Shimano Deore 1x10sp Gear Kit Bundle | Chain Reaction Cycles

You'll need at minimum a chainring, derailleur, shifter, cassette and chain. You could change your crank, but depending on what it is, 3X actually work well (I like them the best for chainline actually). Mount the 1x ring in the middle chainring position for best results.

You can probably reuse your rear derailleur housing and cable if you are careful.

I'd stick with Deore. It's cheap and it works great. I have one bike running all Deore but the cassette and it's a champ. The cassettes are OK too though.

Gearing definitely go for a 11-36 cassette and a 30 or 32 T chainring, depending how strong you are. If you do a lot of road riding, go bigger, like 34 or 36 but be prepared for some hard climbing. I like 30 up front for a trail bike with 29" wheels.

If you don't have access to bike shop tools, then you'll need the cassette nut tool and a chain whip to change the cassette. Everything else can be done with allen keys and pliers except maybe removing the crank and chainrings, that will depend on what you have. Oh and you'll also likely need a chain tool if you don't have one.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Besides needing the tools its insanely easy. So no real guide needed its only 5 parts. Cassette, shifter, rear derailluer, chain, and narrowwide chainring.

1x10 vs 1x11 the price difference isnt huge. Dont HAVE to change the cranks, just remove the chain rings and replace with a single narrow wide ring (they work for 10 and 11 so doesnt matter there)

You need to know what gears you ride in on the back the most and what rings you use up front. Thing is youll loose some range (top end).

1x10 get shimano zee system which is just the shifter and rear derailluer. Its cheap and better than deore. Cassette at minimum 11-36. 11-40 or 11-42 if you need lower gearing.

If you have the funds it costs under $200 to go 1x11. Get shimano SLX m7000 11 speed shifter, rear derailluer and 11-46 cassette. And whatever narrowwide chainring you want.

11 speed is a bit more range so you can run a bigger ring up front if you need more speed.

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## l'oiseau (May 5, 2015)

Umm... looking at your bike spec, you already have a 11-36 cassette.

You could simply just put a NW ring on the front and remove the front derailleur and shifter... off you go.

Specs say your bike has a 44/32/22 gearset up front. Can you ride everything in the middle ring? Do you need that 22, and if so, all the way down to the 22/36? If so, then 1X is not a good idea. If the 32 seems just a bit too much, a 30 1X up front will probably be the ticket. Like $50 for a RF... done...

If you use that 22, then you'll want to look at expanded cassettes. You can get them from Sunrace for 9spd, which would simplify your upgrade.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

I'd probably go 11 speed for better range and component options.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

SunRace | CSM990 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-34-40

A narrow wide ring and this cassette gives you a bit of range without changing too much.


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## AWDV8 (Jul 19, 2014)

l'oiseau said:


> Umm... looking at your bike spec, you already have a 11-36 cassette.
> 
> You could simply just put a NW ring on the front and remove the front derailleur and shifter... off you go.
> 
> ...


I use the 32 95% of the time. I like the idea of dropping to the 30 up front. I wanted to do 10 or 11 out back just to give me a better range.

This is all excellent info everyone. Thx


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## l'oiseau (May 5, 2015)

AWDV8 said:


> I use the 32 95% of the time. I like the idea of dropping to the 30 up front. I wanted to do 10 or 11 out back just to give me a better range.
> 
> This is all excellent info everyone. Thx


You can have just as much range with the 9, see above. IMO, for MTB, having the small steps of 11 gears isn't a necessity for everyone.

I'd say, just for fun, start off with just the 30 and your current cassette and see how that flies. If you find you are needing more low range, then consider changing the rear cassette or going to a different system.

Honestly, I wouldn't put a ton of money into your bike and just save for the next one. I think $100 it would cost you to switch cassettes and buy a chainring to keep it 9 spd wouldn't be too large of an investment. Going to 10 or 11 will be 150 on up depending on what options you choose.


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## l'oiseau (May 5, 2015)

A couple pictures of a 30 tooth raceface single installed on my wife's Trek with a 3X crank.

The 30T doesn't use a nut and the chainring bolt threads right into the ring, which is threaded. You may want to buy the shims (black pieces on the outside) or a bashring but I think it will work without (depends on your bolt lengths.

You'll need to break the chain (best to get some master pliers and split it there), remove the crank (I think yours may be a Hollowtech, and they are super easy to remove - check youtube and buy the bit to set the preload). Remove all the old rings, and put the RF ring on there with the step facing the crank arm.

You'll likely want to remove a few links from your chain, so a chain tool will be handy for that. Go slow and don't do too many, adding back is much harder and require two masters or a new chain! The idea is to get the cage on the derailleur so it has very little movement in the biggest cog. Too tight and it will shift poorly into that gear. Honestly you could leave the chain as it is, but it will shift better if you optimize it for the single ring.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

A single chainring and an 11-36 cassette is a fairly narrow overall range. There could be rides and riders that will be OK with that, but I would not recommend it unless you know it fits you and your riding trails/style.

If you have an 11-36 cassette and a 32t chainring already, try riding EXCLUSIVELY with this combination for a few rides and know for certain that it will be OK for you. Even if you middle ring 95% of the time, that 5% might be mission-critical.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

l'oiseau said:


> You can have just as much range with the 9, see above. IMO, for MTB, having the small steps of 11 gears isn't a necessity for everyone.


You can get decent range with 9 speed but it can't match 11 speed and it probably won't shift as well because the derailleur isn't designed for it.

I'm not saying it's a bad idea and it could definitely work great for lots of people and conditions but it would be a little short of an ideal range for me, I could probably manage with 11-42 but 11-46 would be closer to what I'm used to with my current 2x.

As usual one size doesn't fit all.


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## WVU RUSH (Jun 16, 2009)

OP, I am currently doing that same upgrade on my Rush. My LBS quoted the following:

Drivetrain Option 1 Shimano XT 1x11 $325

Shimano XT Cassette
Shimano XT Rear Derailleur
Shimano XT Shifter
Shimano XT Chain
RaceFace NarrowWide Chainring

Drivetrain Option 2 Shimano SLX 1x11 $255

Shimano SLX Cassette
Shimano SLX Rear Derailleur
Shimnao SLX Shifter
Shimano XT Chain
RaceFace NarrowWide Chainring

Labor for Full Suspension Tune $160

Includes suspension rebuild, bearing adjustment, new drivetrain install, brake adjust, new cable and housing etc



I am leaning towards the XT version for the weight savings and additional bearings (instead of bushings).

As others have stated a new rear cassette at 11-40 (or larger) will be the difference on the longer or more technical climbs. I may even go for the 11-42.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Where are you pricing your m7000??

Cassette is 60, shifter 30, derailluer 50, chain 30 anywhere online. $170 before tax

Full XT is barely over $200 before tax.

Weight savings is minimal accept cassette. Im running m7000 with an m8000 shifter and sunrace 11-46 cassette and was still a hair under $200 to my door.

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## AWDV8 (Jul 19, 2014)

RAKC Ind said:


> Where are you pricing your m7000??
> 
> Cassette is 60, shifter 30, derailluer 50, chain 30 anywhere online. $170 before tax
> 
> ...


Where's best place to get the m7000 group?


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## AWDV8 (Jul 19, 2014)

I started looking at doing the SLX group. I think I might go that route. I have two questions left....

1. For the shifter mount. Do I want bar or I-Spec (B or II)? 

2. Do I need a new BB for the SLX crankset? I'm curious if my existing would work ok.

Still looking for suggestions on retailers.


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## l'oiseau (May 5, 2015)

AWDV8 said:


> I started looking at doing the SLX group. I think I might go that route. I have two questions left....
> 
> 1. For the shifter mount. Do I want bar or I-Spec (B or II)?
> 
> ...


1 - if you have bar clamps currently, you probably want to stick with that.

2 - if your crank is a hollowtec II, then the BB should work fine. Most cranksets from Shimano come with BBs though.


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## AWDV8 (Jul 19, 2014)

Well. I got my plan in place. Thank you for everyone that posted above w/ really detailed information. I've learned a lot from each post for sure. Really, no option mentioned above was wrong and I considered each one but ended up ordering an SLX setup. 

I'm excited to have a chance to really wrench on the bike now. Granted I probably could have sold it, bought a new bike, etc. but would lose out on the tinker factor and making it a learning experience. 

My next research topic are tires!


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Hopefully you bought the tools you need. Chain whip, cassette lockring tool and crank/bb tools.

Thing about tools is they are something youll use forever, bike after bike, so its not a wasted investment. Neither is doing some upgrading to your current bike, knowledge is priceless.

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## Brodino (Sep 15, 2008)

RAKC Ind said:


> ...Thing about tools is they are something youll use forever, bike after bike, so its not a wasted investment. Neither is doing some upgrading to your current bike, knowledge is priceless.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


So true. I have a cheapo bike tool kit I bought over 14 years ago and it is still going strong. I have had to add some tools as bike components change but it has never let me down.


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## AWDV8 (Jul 19, 2014)

Yep. I picked up everything you mentioned and more. I will be swapping the sealed BB to the newer style so needed both tools for that. I'm pumped to get going on this. Will try and do a DIY for Youtube also.


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## WVU RUSH (Jun 16, 2009)

OP, what was your total cost (including tools) if you don't mind me asking.


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## AWDV8 (Jul 19, 2014)

WVU RUSH said:


> OP, what was your total cost (including tools) if you don't mind me asking.


Haven't calculated yet. I did find it was cheaper to buy the group set separately versus going with a bundle from some of the sites. It was maybe $50-$70 cheaper by buying from 2-3 different sources. I got the majority from Jensen though.

chain reaction had it for $315ish. I think it was $250 ish from shopping around. Plus, I got a better chain than what was included too. So, apples to apples to Chain Reaction was maybe $315 to $239. I also got a new BB so that's another $18. Tools maybe $50 or so. I had nothing. I'll run the numbers in the next week and recap it all. I'm probably around $300 for everything including tools and the BB. I'll try and flip my existing group set on eBay too and see if it's worth anything. Maybe worth keeping in a box in the garage. Who knows.


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## Bigjunk1 (Sep 17, 2016)

You will be losing a lot of range just to save a minimal amount of weight and ''looks''.
Giving up ability is something I would put some thought into.

I know 1x is new and cool and all but it is not for everyone and certainly not an upgrade. Unless you are specifically using the bike for racing where every gram matters and limited range is enough to finish a race it is a downgrade.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Bigjunk1 said:


> You will be losing a lot of range just to save a minimal amount of weight and ''looks''.
> Giving up ability is something I would put some thought into.
> 
> I know 1x is new and cool and all but it is not for everyone and certainly not an upgrade. Unless you are specifically using the bike for racing where every gram matters and limited range is enough to finish a race it is a downgrade.


I'd say SLX 11-speed is an upgrade over Acera 9-speed. 1x vs. 3x is a different issue but for a lot of riders that can be an upgrade too and not because of the weight. For a lot of people and trail conditions 1x gearing range isn't the least bit limiting.

12 speed pretty much matches 2x range and 11 speed isn't that far off when you consider that most riders don't use the whole range on multi-chainring drivetrains anyway, especially with 3x, 1x can make a lot of sense.


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## AWDV8 (Jul 19, 2014)

All good points. I think a lot depends on your local trails. For me. I've had the bike 100% stock for a few years. I figured I would try a different setup and see what the experience is like. I'm also pumped to get a better level than the Acera. Although it never gave me issues.


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## l'oiseau (May 5, 2015)

You'd be surprised how little difference there is in the Shimano groupsets besides overall weight. I'm not all that familiar with Acera, but Deore, SLX and XT are nothing to write home about in differences, especially for 1X. The biggest differences were actually in the front derailleur and chainrings, the XT being the best shifting. The instant and dual release on the XT shifters is nice, but to be honest, my Deore shifter works better (especially on upshifts).

The major downfall of 9spd for 1x is lack of a clutch derailleur. It's something I consider a must now having lost chains with 1x using NW rings. Even more aggressive riders will want a chain guide in addition.

1X makes a lot more sense if you run a dropper and/or lock because it frees up your left hand for those things. And if you are a rider who using a dropper a lot during the ride, it's nice to have it an easy to use location.

I think a lot of people put too much emphasis on range in MTB. How often are you spinning out a 30x11? I only can spin out a 36x11 with cross tires on my bike, and they are quite a bit smaller diameter than what are standard MTB tires now.

Bigger front rings have advantages if you actually use that range and are primarily riding on the road, but in that cases, unless you are really strong, you probably don't have a lot of big hills.

A lot of 1x really comes down to picking the right front ring. That's all there is to it. If you are really pushing 36/38x11/10, and need ultra-low 22x42 for climbing, then stick with 2x. If not, your bike has way more range than it needs.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

l'oiseau said:


> I think a lot of people put too much emphasis on range in MTB. How often are you spinning out a 30x11?


Agreed, pretty much never spin out 30x11 on the trail but range is still a big consideration IMO. 30x11 is a good top gear for most but if you use 9-speed you'd be limited to a 24 inch low which is pretty stiff for lots of people and terrain. Yes you can get bigger aftermarket cassette cogs but at that point I think 11 or 12 speed opens a lot more options and will perform better with wide range cassettes. Again, required range is rider and terrain dependent. Some only need 1 gear.

Acera is pretty low rent with lots of flexy plastic, it work's ok but SLX is much better under demanding conditions IME.


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## WVU RUSH (Jun 16, 2009)

I ended up with a 32 front and 11×42 rear. This will provide all the gears I need for my local trails (tight single track). I never use the big ring and seldom use the small. 
I needed a new drive train anyway (8 yeara old) and like the advantages of the 1X. Especially the higher clearance as the Rush had a low BB anyway. 
LBS said he can do complete package at a lower price (I will let everyone know) and it should be done this Wednesday.


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## Dr Evil (Sep 20, 2015)

Good thread. I decided to go 1x9 on my 2012 Fuel EX-9 since I am always in the middle chain ring anyway. Bike had 22-32-42. I replaced the cassette last year with a Shimano CS-HG400 12-36 cassette for better climbing. I will be getting a 30t ring up front. Should gain a little better climbing and not loose much at all for descends and flats. Looking forward to cleaning up my bars, dropping a tad bit of weight and putting a southpaw lever for my dropper where the shifter was.


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## l'oiseau (May 5, 2015)

I happened to have a bank error in my favor so this thread enticed me to throw a 11spd SLX on my rigid bike. I really do need more range on that bad boy.

Not too bad on the price:

Cassette $53
Chain $29
Shifter $29.50
Derailleur $51

Basically gives me all the same gears I'm running now with my 11-36 but with a 42t granny... oh my knees will thank me!

Checked out all the other options for expanders but no way I'd mess with my 17 and 15 cogs, I use those the most on the asphalt.


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## appaholic (Nov 10, 2009)

I just went to a 1x11 on my '91 RockHopper. It was more expensive than I anticipated (I suck at having patience to work on drivetrain), but not nearly as expensive as having the Rockhopper as a SS just hanging on the wall due to the pain of climbing without a granny gear. After using for first time this past weekend, I can't imagine having the need for 3 rings up front ever again with the trails I'm riding in WNC....no regrets at all!


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## WVU RUSH (Jun 16, 2009)

First ride with the new 1x11. Like a different bike. 
The good:

Always felt I was in the right gear, since it was so easy to go full range. Shifting was precise but definitely different and will take a while to get used to. Also I didn't know what to do with my left hand without the levers over there to fidget with while climbing. 

Cleared a log crossing I have never done before. It was weird because I "braced for impact, thinking the big ring would catch" but it never bottomed out and just glided over. 

On my trails 32x11 is more than fast enough. 

Never heard chain slap even on fast rough sections. 

The bad:
Wore me out more than any other ride this season. I can no longer drop to granny and sit and spin it out. I now will have to atrack the hills like I do on the road bike. (This may end up being a good thing though)


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

What cassette are you running that has a 12t?

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## WVU RUSH (Jun 16, 2009)

32x11, not 12.


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## AWDV8 (Jul 19, 2014)

So. I got the 1x11 setup installed. Couple wonky issues. I can't get the b screw adjusted where the wheel is close enough to catch significantly on the 42t. Not a huge deal though. Other issue is that I can't back pedal on the 42 without dropping down to the 37. What should I try adjusting?


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## l'oiseau (May 5, 2015)

AWDV8 said:


> So. I got the 1x11 setup installed. Couple wonky issues. I can't get the b screw adjusted where the wheel is close enough to catch significantly on the 42t.


I don't understand what you mean? The guide wheel shouldn't catch on the 42, there should be like 5mm of clearance there.

These offset pulleys are a little harder to adjust because your chain length affects your B tension adjustment. My advice is to get the chain length right, then adjust the B screw until you have proper clearance in the 42. I'd say mine, on a SLX 1x11 is right about 1/3 of the way in.

The backpedal issue is chainline. I'd forget it. Do you plan on doing a lot of backpedaling in that gear? If you do, you need to file the teeth on the 42 or shim your BB or chainring.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Correct b-screw adjustment is 5-6mm between the guide pulley and 42t sprocket, you should be able to get it there. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by not catching significantly on the 42t but I'd probably try backing out the low limit screw 1/2 turn and see what happens.

The backpedal thing is mostly related to chainline issues and isn't such a big deal IMO.


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## AWDV8 (Jul 19, 2014)

Ok. Awesome. I thought the guide wheel should catch on the 42. Noob mistake. I'll adjust again and make sure I'm at 5-6mm. I think I have chain length correct based on the 50 videos and forum posts I referenced. 

For some reason I can't upload a pic but it all looks awesome. Got new pedals and grips on too.


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## AWDV8 (Jul 19, 2014)

Pic


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## WVU RUSH (Jun 16, 2009)

Picture of new setup


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## l'oiseau (May 5, 2015)

WVU RUSH said:


> Picture of new setup


You could shorten your chain at least a link, if not two. When you do this you can back your B screw out quite a bit.


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## AWDV8 (Jul 19, 2014)

l'oiseau said:


> You could shorten your chain at least a link, if not two. When you do this you can back your B screw out quite a bit.


His pic or mine? Lol


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## l'oiseau (May 5, 2015)

Here's mine. I could take another link off but this gives me enough to put my 38 up front.


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## l'oiseau (May 5, 2015)

AWDV8 said:


> His pic or mine? Lol


I can't tell on yours unless you are in your 42.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

AWDV8 said:


> His pic or mine? Lol


Your's looks good to me. I agree that Rush's bike should probably lose 2 links (1 inch) though.


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## WVU RUSH (Jun 16, 2009)

J.B. Weld said:


> Your's looks good to me. I agree that Rush's bike should probably lose 2 links (1 inch) though.


I will bring this up to the LBS, it is going back for a tune up this week. Thanks for the heads up.


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## l'oiseau (May 5, 2015)

WVU RUSH said:


> I will bring this up to the LBS, it is going back for a tune up this week. Thanks for the heads up.


Do you have a chain tool? Remove the quick link and take one off set of links off at time until it looks more like the pic I posted.

I honestly don't know how people ride their bikes without a chain tool... the day I don't have one and a spare quick link is the day I snap my chain.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

l'oiseau said:


> I honestly don't know how people ride their bikes without a chain tool... the day I don't have one and a spare quick link is the day I snap my chain.


Ha, if my chain breaks on my ride tonight that would make my average once every 35 years, acceptable odds for me.

I've never carried one.


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## l'oiseau (May 5, 2015)

J.B. Weld said:


> Ha, if my chain breaks on my ride tonight that would make my average once every 35 years, acceptable odds for me.
> 
> I've never carried one.


I was that way for a long time, then I had a bad rash of them. Now I always keep one handy.


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## WVU RUSH (Jun 16, 2009)

J.B. Weld said:


> Ha, if my chain breaks on my ride tonight that would make my average once every 35 years, acceptable odds for me.
> 
> I've never carried one.


Most rides I don't even carry a spare tube. I ride 95% time within 5 minutes of my house so worst case I call the wife (or brother in law) and they bring the truck and get me. Needed a ride once in the last 8-10 years (nephew popped both tubes on a rock section so I rode home and got the truck)

I did all of my own maintenance when I was a college student. Now I do not have the time, nor desire, to do anything more than a simple tube change (and sometimes I even drop it off for that).


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

WVU RUSH said:


> Most rides I don't even carry a spare tube. I ride 95% time within 20 minutes of my house so worst case I call the wife (or brother in law) and they bring the truck and get me. Needed a ride once in the last 8-10 years (nephew popped both tubes on a rock section so I rode home and got the truck)


I'm not that brave, I feel just as naked riding without a tube and pump as I would riding without a helmet. Always packing even though it's rarely used now with tubeless.

I'm frequently 10 miles from a trailhead though and a lot further than that if I ride from home. Also I'd be pretty embarrassed about calling for help for a flat tire.


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## AWDV8 (Jul 19, 2014)

So, looked at the bike again late last night w/ fresh eyes. I 100% did a noob thing and routed the chain incorrectly. Instead of going OVER the little metal guide tab on the rear derailleur I went under it. Once I fixed that and messed w/ the B screw it was magical. Drivetrain was buttery smooth and quiet. Everything worked perfectly. 

Thanks again for the help here. I wouldn't have been able to tackle this w/o the help and quick replies.


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## l'oiseau (May 5, 2015)

Great! Enjoy.

This SLX drivetrain is one of the best I've used. Really quiet and smooth.


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## AWDV8 (Jul 19, 2014)

Pic!


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## AWDV8 (Jul 19, 2014)

I need some frame plugs where I removed the cables. I also removed the wheel stickers. Maybe a new fork next.


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## WVU RUSH (Jun 16, 2009)

l'oiseau said:


> You could shorten your chain at least a link, if not two. When you do this you can back your B screw out quite a bit.


I brought this up to the mechanic at the LBS. They disagreed and stated to accommodate swing arm travel it needs to be a little longer.


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## l'oiseau (May 5, 2015)

This is true, you should let the air out of your shock and check at at max stroke. Perhaps they did this?


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## WVU RUSH (Jun 16, 2009)

l'oiseau said:


> This is true, you should let the air out of your shock and check at at max stroke. Perhaps they did this?


They had the shock off (full rebuild) so I am assuming they did. 
Also FWIW my total cost for parts was ~$235.00.

Shimano XT Cassette
Shimano XT Rear Derailleur
Shimano XT Shifter
Shimano XT Chain
RaceFace NarrowWide Chainring


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

WVU RUSH said:


> I brought this up to the mechanic at the LBS. They disagreed and stated to accommodate swing arm travel it needs to be a little longer.


Well I guess they're right in front of it and not looking at a sideways picture, sure does look a tad long though. How is it in the 11t cog?


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