# x-post Tooltime: Homemade headset press



## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

I asked the tooltime bunch but figured I'd try here too.

I am trying to build a homemade headset press as we speak. I tried the hammer and 2x4 method once, but I must not have the touch, cuz I could never get the headset to stay tight, I think it went in crooked.

That said, could anyone that owns the Park headset press, or works in a shop that has one get the measurements for the step bushing cup adapters (ie diameter of each step, length of each step, and overall length)? I teach machining at the local tech college, and was thinking about machining a pair from aluminium or brass to use in conjunction with the all thread,nuts, and washers I bought at the hardware store this weekend. Thanks guys.

1 Cog Frog


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## Fast Eddy (Dec 30, 2003)

Don't the washers and threaded rod work all by themselves? I've only ever done it with a hammer (about 20 times without problem), but I've thought about trying something else.


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## ferday (Jan 15, 2004)

i saw your post, and failed to understand why you need the adapter thingy (i don't have the park press). i made a press from a long 1/2" bolt, and a stack of fender washers. i am going to weld some tabs onto the nut so i have a handle (like the park tool), but teh washers work great, don't know why you need to CNC something other than for fun.


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## Nater (Jan 6, 2004)

*Guidance...*

the adaptors on the Park press fit into the head tube and help guide the cups of the headset in straight.


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Exactly*

Not CNC, just turned on a manual lathe, because I can, and because I love to machine stuff I can use. What I am lookin for is to get the inserts machined so they will fit inside the cups like the Park does. Yea may be more work than is necessary, but if I am going to make a homemade press, I want to make it the best possible, and I figured Park had already done the research to know what size would work with most if not all headsets.

Am I a bit anal? probably. Somewhat neurotic? sure, but hey I'm a machinist, I do this kind of thing for fun!


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## Fast Eddy (Dec 30, 2003)

1 cog frog said:


> I'm a machinist, I do this kind of thing for fun!


Just start with a long one that fits your current headset then turn down another section when you need to install a smaller headset.


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## rpet (Jan 27, 2004)

Did you guys see the new "home shop headset press" that Park is introducing? I just saw a pic from Interbike or somewhere.

-r


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## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

1 cog frog said:


> I asked the tooltime bunch but figured I'd try here too.
> 
> I am trying to build a homemade headset press as we speak. I tried the hammer and 2x4 method once, but I must not have the touch, cuz I could never get the headset to stay tight, I think it went in crooked.
> 
> ...


That'd be pretty cool to have home-made adapters. I've never needed them with my homemade setup though, as long as the headtube had been prepped previously. If I had the ability to machine my own reducers, I'd do it too.


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## Mudflaps (Sep 7, 2005)

The older versions of the Park HS press didn't have the adapters, and having used both, I don't see any advantage to having them there. I think that you are under a mistaken impression that they do some guiding of the cups. They don't actually do that at all. The shoulder extension of the HS cup should do the guiding, unless you're ham-fisted about the process, which I seriously doubt. (Don't forget to grease the inside of the frame where the cuo inserts) The adapters only keep the cup centered in the tool, and the old(and new) versions have their own "washer"-type face that has machined centering shoulders. I don't have a new one here at home, (though I do have the old style), or I would gladly send you the dimensions. I understand the machinist's need to build something


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## moose8500 (Sep 18, 2004)

from when I was building up my bike, I have a related question for you guys... How the heck do you get a crown race onto that bottom lip of a fork without scratching it all up and denting it or getting it on crooked. First I was told to put a crescents wrench on it and then hammer the wrench, but that approach almost wrecked my nice new fork... In the end, the solution was using a cut piece of pipe of the exact diameter, which bashed it evenly on. Is there a better way?


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## Mudflaps (Sep 7, 2005)

moose8500 said:


> from when I was building up my bike, I have a related question for you guys... How the heck do you get a crown race onto that bottom lip of a fork without scratching it all up and denting it or getting it on crooked. First I was told to put a crescents wrench on it and then hammer the wrench, but that approach almost wrecked my nice new fork... In the end, the solution was using a cut piece of pipe of the exact diameter, which bashed it evenly on. Is there a better way?


Moose, you have just described the "Headset Rocket" tool perfectly. That is exactly what the official tool consists of. Just reserve one end for the hammer action as it will get mangled from repeated uses.


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## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

*My method..*

My headset setter is a very large G Clamp.

I use two blocks of wood over the headset top and bottom and simply tighten the G clamp slowly.

They slide right in nicely. One thing though. I never use any grease between the cup and the frame. I prefer to have the headset go in "dry".

R.


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## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

rpet said:


> Did you guys see the new "home shop headset press" that Park is introducing? I just saw a pic from Interbike or somewhere.
> 
> -r


This one?

http://www.webcyclery.com/product.php?productid=17511&cat=383&page=2


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## Mudflaps (Sep 7, 2005)

I should clarify that my grease recommendation applies most specifically to steel frames, but I also use it for aluminum frames without any problems. I live in the rain zones and have seen every type of bike part seized up on the many thousands of repairs I've done over the last 25 years in the business. It tends to make one a big believer in grease and anti-seize.


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## dannybob (Feb 21, 2004)

The adaptors don't really guide anything but they are necessary for certain headsets. What the adaptors do is put the pressure of the press on the base of the cup rather than the lip. On a Chris King this doesn't matter because the bearing supports the cup but if your installing a loose ball headset, especially a nice alloy one like a Campy, you could distort the crap out of the cup and end up with a headset that never feels right.

Chris King makes adaptors specifically for their headsets that do the opposite. They push on the top most lips of the cup so that the bearing isn't damaged. But since the outer race of the bearing supports the cup there is really no way to damage the cup.

So... if you're lucky enough to only be installing King's a long bolt and a couple of beefy washers is all you need. If you're installing loose ball headsets you should use some adaptor that sits right inside of the race of the cup.

Using 2x4's is bad.


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## pacman (Jan 16, 2004)

moose8500 said:


> from when I was building up my bike, I have a related question for you guys... How the heck do you get a crown race onto that bottom lip of a fork without scratching it all up and denting it or getting it on crooked. First I was told to put a crescents wrench on it and then hammer the wrench, but that approach almost wrecked my nice new fork... In the end, the solution was using a cut piece of pipe of the exact diameter, which bashed it evenly on. Is there a better way?


Just another 2x4, bore a hole 1-1/8", press the race down and hammer around it. The soft wood conforms to the race so you don't damage anything.


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## rpet (Jan 27, 2004)

yeah - that's the one. $60 is a bit high for a home shop. too bad.


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## mcfly (Nov 3, 2005)

instead of adapters, use a socket that fits inside the cup. that's what i did. i don't recall the size i used - i just tried different sizes until i found the one that fit best.

my headset tool is 3/8" "ready rod" about a foot long with some flat fender washers. 3/8" because it fits through the 3/8" square hole in a socket. if you have 1/2" drive sockets, you could upsize no problem.

i bought a 24" length of 1/4" brass dowel rod and made 2 punches for lower cup race removal/installation. the remover has a chisel edge filed into it and the installer is just flat ended dowel rod. brass is softer than the steel or aluminum race, so it won't nick or scratch anything. it also doesn't splinter like wood.... i just slowly tapped around the lower race until it seated up evenly


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## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

mcfly said:


> i bought a 24" length of 1/4" brass dowel rod and made 2 punches for lower cup race removal/installation. the remover has a chisel edge filed into it


I'd like to see pics of your remover please. Can you post a couple?


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## mcfly (Nov 3, 2005)

never thought to take a picture of it....

it's just a chunk of 1/4" diameter brass rod 7-8" long. i filed a point on the end like a flat blade screwdriver. i bought a 2 foot length from crappy tire for 5 or 6 bucks.

you use it like a chisel. place it between the lower race and fork crown and tap lightly with a hammer. couple light taps and move the punch a bit, couple light taps, work your way around the steerer...... eventually it comes free.

many forks have a small notch in the crown to get a pointy stick into. my mx comp eta did anyway...

to get the cups out of the head tube, i use another 7-8" chunk of 1/4" brass rod with no point filed on it. stick the punch in the top of the head tube and place it against the lower cup. tap lightly, working your way around...... flip the frame around for the upper cup...

machinists use brass hammers and punches all the time. they're solid enough to do the work (wood can split and break up), but soft enough not to scratch the metal.


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## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

mcfly said:


> i bought a 2 foot length from crappy tire for 5 or 6 bucks.


What does the above mean (i.e., what's crappy tire)?

So it's not a puller per se, but more like a flat screwdriver made of soft brass?


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## mcfly (Nov 3, 2005)

crappy tire = canadian tire = large popular automotive/hardware/sporting goods/housewares store in canada


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## 11 Bravo (Mar 12, 2004)

Frog,

Maybe I am a bit anal too, but it seems strange to me that some will buy a $100 dollar headset and put it in a $1000 (or more) frame, and choke on spending a $120 for the right tool that will last a lifetime. I should admit that I am kind of a tool freak. 

The stepped bushings from my Park HHP-1 measure:

Total Length: 1.750”

Smallest step: 1. 008” DIA

Next step: 1.163” DIA

Biggest step: 1.290” DIA

All 3 steps are .050” in length

Final shoulder is 1.750” DIA X .255” thick. 

There is a radius at the transition from the 1.290’” DIA step to the final shoulder that accounts or the missing .025”


The bushings for the King headset measure:

Small Step is 1.284” DIA X .300” length

Large shoulder is: 1.745” DIA X .400” Thick

I just came home from a marathon 12 hour night shift. I have 2 beers and no food in me. If any of this does not make sense or you want some detail of the press or pictures, just let me know.


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## Nat (Dec 30, 2003)

11 Bravo said:


> Frog,
> 
> Maybe I am a bit anal too, but it seems strange to me that some will buy a $100 dollar headset and put it in a $1000 (or more) frame, and choke on spending a $120 for the right tool that will last a lifetime. I should admit that I am kind of a tool freak.


I'd love to have every tool in the Park book and a Campy BB cutting tool, but then I'd end up spending more money on tools than it'd cost for a new bike. I buy the tools that I expect to use frequently but hesitate on the expensive ones that I might use once per year or less. The Park headset press is quite nice, but a homemade setup can cost less than a ten-spot. I'd rather spend that $120 for a new headset (or tires or food or whatever) than a press.


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## Lutarious (Feb 8, 2005)

*Big bolts/PVC sleeve*

You can use a full size threaded rod. I think I bought 1inch threaded rod for the 1-1/8th headsets and it leaves so little room that alignment is very very simple.

I would also like to make a sleeve to fit inside the cups. SHould be pretty easy to measure the ID of the bearing and make the step deep enough not to destroythe races. I would use a washer on one end, and a threaded piece on the other. No reason to use tools on both ends. (flat two sides for a crescent.) Any size hole in the middle, but a finer thread count would be nice for ease of installation and minor adjustment.


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Not for a King headset*

Thanks a ton for the measurments! Despite being the product of sleep deprivation and alchohol, they seem clear to me!

FWIW, I only own 1 king headset, and it was installed by the lbs after they prepped the frame, and with the proper tool. The press I am making is for the other headsets I may install in the future. I figured I could do it for cheap and see if it works.

I am in no position to own a $1000 frame, and even a $120 tool is out of my budget. This tool cost a total of $5 for materials, plus about 2 hours of work. IMO well worth it. I love to have the right tools too, but right now it's just not possible.


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## 11 Bravo (Mar 12, 2004)

1 cog frog said:


> Thanks a ton for the measurments! Despite being the product of sleep deprivation and alchohol, they seem clear to me!
> 
> FWIW, I only own 1 king headset, and it was installed by the lbs after they prepped the frame, and with the proper tool. The press I am making is for the other headsets I may install in the future. I figured I could do it for cheap and see if it works.
> 
> I am in no position to own a $1000 frame, and even a $120 tool is out of my budget. This tool cost a total of $5 for materials, plus about 2 hours of work. IMO well worth it. I love to have the right tools too, but right now it's just not possible.


I wasn't meaning to take a swipe at you. Making stuff is way cool. I have 2 welders, a metal lathe, grinders, a nice drill press and a ton of other stuff in my garage. You will end up with a nice headset press when you are done.

It is the pictures I see of claw hammers and blocks of wood, pieces of all-thread with washers that that don't fit and stuff like that. It makes me cringe a little. Apparently guys get it done with those methods. Each to his own. Like I said, I am kind of a tool freak.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

*Headset Press*

Mine.


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## mcseforsale (Feb 14, 2004)

*Sell 'em here...*



1 cog frog said:


> Thanks a ton for the measurments! Despite being the product of sleep deprivation and alchohol, they seem clear to me!
> 
> FWIW, I only own 1 king headset, and it was installed by the lbs after they prepped the frame, and with the proper tool. The press I am making is for the other headsets I may install in the future. I figured I could do it for cheap and see if it works.
> 
> I am in no position to own a $1000 frame, and even a $120 tool is out of my budget. This tool cost a total of $5 for materials, plus about 2 hours of work. IMO well worth it. I love to have the right tools too, but right now it's just not possible.


Tell you what....I'll buy some if the price is right. I also like to make stuff, but unfortunately, I've been out of the machining game for almost 15 years. Boy, would I like to have a small metal lathe and a bridgeport in my garage....I'd also like to learn TIG. Anyway...If you're makin', I might be interested in a set of them. Like you said...I buy tools that I use frequently, but have the LBS re thread BB shells and stuff. The tools are just too rediculous.

AJ


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

*Here is a quick drawing*

I have wanted to make one of these as well, but didn't have any clue on dimensions either. Looks like I have no excuse now! Here is a quick drawing with the dimensions from Bravo, thanks for providing those. The inside bore should be whatever size bolt/threaded rod you are using:


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## aosty (Jan 7, 2004)

Sounds like a fun project but the Park headset press inserts are available separately and are affordable... PA-HHP1...

https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=982228447889&d=single&c=Tools&sc=Headset&tc=Press%20Set%20Parts&item_id=PA-530/2


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## SKullman (Oct 4, 2004)

I'm scared that people with +$1000 bikes are using hammers to put in headsets. Most shops will do it for a few dollars.
I'm pretty sure no manufacturer will warantee a headset not installed with a proper tool. 
And by proper, I'll include home made "presses", something that squeezes the cups in parrallel and even.

Shane


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*aosty*

I checked with the LBS and they wanted $30 for the cups seperate, I still made the whole thing for less than $5, with about 2 hrs of machining (stopped every 10 min to answer questions for students in the lab). So to me, still worth it!


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Finished*

Finally got around to taking some pics of the press adapters I machined. The largest diameter on one is thinner than the other, I was rushing to finish and messed up , but it should still work fine.

I ended up making the ones that Chris King sells for their headsets, but I will probably end up machining the Park ones now that I have the dimensions and a drawing to go off of! (thanks bravo and bikeny!) Enjoy.


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## aosty (Jan 7, 2004)

1 cog frog said:


> Finally got around to taking some pics of the press adapters I machined. The largest diameter on one is thinner than the other, I was rushing to finish and messed up , but it should still work fine.
> 
> I ended up making the ones that Chris King sells for their headsets, but I will probably end up machining the Park ones now that I have the dimensions and a drawing to go off of! (thanks bravo and bikeny!) Enjoy.


Nice job - now whip up a nice set of handles with ball-ends!


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*That's the next project!*

After I learn how to weld!


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## aosty (Jan 7, 2004)

1 cog frog said:


> After I learn how to weld!


Naw - no need to weld... 

Make a doohicky that threads onto the rod (replace the nuts)...


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Great...*

Now you got the wheels turning about how to make that! You guys are such a bad influence on me! 

Really, that is a great idea, I think I'll try it. But only after I finish making a homemade drop bolt for my Schwinn commuter's rear brake! (Thanks to Sheldon for that idea!)

http://sheldonbrown.com/home-drop.html

I'll post some pics of the handle when I finish it! Peace

1 Cog Frog


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

I finally got around to machining my headset press adapters, and I think they turned out nice, and the best part is the total cost was $0.00! Took about 2 hours total including machine setup and finding suitable material. The only change I had to make was the OD of my adapters are 1.5" instead of 1.75". I could not find any 1.75" stock and didn't feel like turning down a 2" piece. I don't think it matters anyway, as I thing the largest step is only used for 1 1/4" headsets anyway. Here is the pic:


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Nice*

I just finished the homemade drop bolt, so looks like I need to make a set of adapters like those bikeny, they're sweet. Is that 6061 bar stock, or steel? I like em!

Here is a pic of the drop bolt, just cuz we're on the subject of homemade stuff Pics are a bit blurry, but I don't want to take it off just for a pic, cuz it's all set up just right!


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## zaxxon (Feb 23, 2004)

1 cog frog said:


> I just finished the homemade drop bolt, so looks like I need to make a set of adapters like those bikeny, they're sweet. Is that 6061 bar stock, or steel? I like em!
> 
> Here is a pic of the drop bolt, just cuz we're on the subject of homemade stuff Pics are a bit blurry, but I don't want to take it off just for a pic, cuz it's all set up just right!


Better go patent that drop bolt idea, there's a billion 27" bikes that you could use 700c wheels


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

1 cog frog said:


> I just finished the homemade drop bolt, so looks like I need to make a set of adapters like those bikeny, they're sweet. Is that 6061 bar stock, or steel? I like em!
> 
> Here is a pic of the drop bolt, just cuz we're on the subject of homemade stuff Pics are a bit blurry, but I don't want to take it off just for a pic, cuz it's all set up just right!


I actually used 2024, because that is what I found on the rack! Steel would have taken too long to machine, and honestly, I have realy only worked with aluminum, so I don't have a clue as to speeds etc. to work with steel. I like the drop bolt idea, very clever. I guess that would also work to use short reach brakes on a frame designed for standard reach ones? Although I will admit that I have never used road caliper brakes, so I could be wrong!


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Drawings for Adapters*

Thought I would post these if anyone is interested, the dimensions are according to those posted previously in this thread! Enjoy


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

*Inventor?*

Nice drawings! Looks like Autodesk Inventor to me. I just installed R11 yesterday, so far so good.


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## 11 Bravo (Mar 12, 2004)

Blast from the past. I am bumping this thread because another member was doing some searching and realized that I posted some incorrect information. I wanted to correct it.

I posted that the small step, outside diameter on the King headset adapters I had was 1.284" This is incorrect. 

The correct small step, outside diameter of the adapters is 1.183". I don't know if I fat fingered that, posted up the wrong dimension that was written down for something else, or just screwed up reading the mic, but I stand corrected. 

Thanks for the heads up "Bikerbo"


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Finished homemade headset press*

After a seeing the latest post, I figured I should post some pics of my finished press. I made handles for each side, which makes install a snap! I made the nuts and 2 handles from steel, and the other handles from aluminum. Should have used all aluminum to avoid the rust problem. Oh well! I have used it to install 10 plus headsets, and it works great.


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