# I think a Specialized Riprock is our next 24" bike



## Chad_M (Jul 11, 2013)

I was skeptical of the mid-fat tire range, especially for a kid. But I saw one in person this weekend, and it seems like finally an all new kids bike offer that is up to date.

Gone are the triple chain rings and freewheel cassette. In are mechanical disc brakes, QR axles, and 8 speed stuff. I also thought the bike was as light or lighter than the 24 hotrock XC it was next to.

Even the shock, with a coil, seemed to actually be sprung for a kids weight. I attribute that to an extra 30mm of travel vs. hotrocks, so they can start it softer early in the travel with a lighter rate coil. Finally it looks cool and my 7yo son really liked it.

What do you think?


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## ETChipotle (Sep 20, 2014)

I think this bike will be the ticket for a lot of people. If you compare it to bikes in the 300 to 400 range that require a new crank, you're ahead if you get the $500 RipRock because you don't need to replace the crank to change the chainring (at least I don't think so) and you won't need to rebuild the wheel to make it 10 speed (at least I don't think so). I wish my girls had a 3" tire to ride with me on my bigger tires.


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## Steve-XtC (Feb 7, 2016)

I think its yet another close miss! 
I'm looking at UK spec here.... (might be different but) It's another near miss/mixed bag!

Positives: The site I'm looking at in the UK says its a Sunrace 8 speed cassette. 
If its truly a cassette not a freewheel then this saves the whole replace the backwheel/hub issue!

Negatives:

Its got 152mm cranks.... which really do need replacing if your kid is moving from a 20... if you are replacing a 24er then they might just be OK

Stom just swapped out a 155mm to 145mm on a 26er... 
http://forums.mtbr.com/families-riding-kids/carbon-frame-xs-26-build-1000095.html#post12531793

Coiled spring suspension ....
I didn't try but many did. I'm sure this is improved but Air Forks have to be the way to go. (and might actually be cheaper when you figure in your kid is going to need 2/3 springs as they gain weight over the hopeful lifetime of the bike)

I have to say I am REALLY impressed with the RST Air 24 ..... didn't try the Suntour Air... but the RST ones not only work but work incredibly well!

Undecided: 
Can those rims take a smaller tyre as well? 
I like the 3" idea but I'd like an option to also run some 2" tyres where conditions dictate?

IMHO overall a good close try....but we are still somewhere between buying a bike for frame, forks, wheels and ripping the rest off.

You still want to rip off the drive train but it's simpler....
Air-forks would be a plus...

Lack of V brake mounts might also be a issue for some.... which again is a oversight.
It wouldn't be that hard to include the option on the frame/forks.

Overall, I still don't know if a light showroom weight is a good thing or not ....
You're paying for "better" but relatively cheap components you might want to remove and some you will have to replace.

Optional...
i.e. A $15 BB replacement can save 150g (nothing fancy just Shimano UN55)
XT cassette .... and possibly pedals,bars, seatpost etc. (you can get these pretty cheap from China - Titanium spindle pedals and carbon bars, seatpost etc.)

Non-Optional 
Shimano Tourney mech, Revo shifters are just going to break so you need to replace anyway.

My personal opinion is it's actually cheaper to just replace the WHOLE drivetrain in one go.... switching to a 10speed also means a new chain.... etc. so why not just get XT M780 shifters and M780 rear mech.... (the price difference is not really that much now the M8000 is out) ... along with a decent chain ...

The one thing I put on that is really overspeced are the XT/SLX disc brakes with 160mm rotors. The SLX on the rear was an ebay find.... <$20 NEW) 
160mm is just simpler... no adaptors ... not because a 20kg kid needs 160mm

The front XT .... I had lying a spare caliper about... and got a replacement wheel that came with a 160mm rotor ... (<$15 (£8 UK) + $10 postage) and this coincided with him having an unlucky fall where his XT bar mount shifter hit a tree root and broke the window.

It ended up about the same price to go ISPEC-B as replace the window.... and used my spare caliper.


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## Szy_szka (Oct 29, 2015)

Personally, I am not sold on the specs alone. If it's about the mid-fat tire then I guess there is nothing else out there so if you must have it, go for it. 

I am biased of course toward the bike my kid is riding but if you haven't seen it or researched it, I do recommend looking into Diamondback Sync'r 24.


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## Chad_M (Jul 11, 2013)

Szy_szka said:


> Personally, I am not sold on the specs alone. If it's about the mid-fat tire then I guess there is nothing else out there so if you must have it, go for it.
> 
> I am biased of course toward the bike my kid is riding but if you haven't seen it or researched it, I do recommend looking into Diamondback Sync'r 24.


The Sync'r does look really good for $500. I was considering it.


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## Steve-XtC (Feb 7, 2016)

Chad_M said:


> The Sync'r does look really good for $500. I was considering it.


Assuming you are going to rip off the forks and drive train its down to the wheels.
But if you are going to do that why not the Line ??


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## Szy_szka (Oct 29, 2015)

Steve-XtC said:


> Assuming you are going to rip off the forks and drive train its down to the wheels.
> But if you are going to do that why not the Line ??


I'm not going to get into an argument about the specs and intended purposes, etc, etc but just wanted to point out that the specs for the Sync'r as listed on the DB own website are NOT correct and the bike does come with much better components.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Szy_szka said:


> ... I do recommend looking into Diamondback Sync'r 24.


I think DB nailed it with those hook, line, syncr bikes. At least the concept and naming. the price is still a bit high for the adult versions, but not horrible. For the 24" youth bike, the syncr is good. Expensive for what it is, but good.


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## Steve-XtC (Feb 7, 2016)

Szy_szka said:


> I'm not going to get into an argument about the specs and intended purposes, etc, etc but just wanted to point out that the specs for the Sync'r as listed on the DB own website are NOT correct and the bike does come with much better components.


I'm just looking at DB's website but my point really is you need to decide which components you will keep and which you will replace and this is even more the case with kids bikes due to the limited time they will be the right size.

My philosophy used to be try it and see if it works and his 20" was a series of replacements/upgrades .... until we were at the trail centre and I know the hire folks and asked of he could try the 24 for size.

He was just big enough ... (really not quite but manageable) so then I decided that I'd stop spending on his 20 inch and look for a 24".

However, I did this with a different mindset. That was he will only have the bike a couple of years so there is no point gradually replacing stuff... especially 24 inch specific wheels or forks...

Almost all frames are made in a few factories in the far east then sprayed different colours according to which named manufacturer they are going to. Same tubes, gauge etc. so when you get down to it the frame weights are all about the same.

Since the cranks are way too long these need to be replaced anyway. (Unless the DB website is wrong on those as well it says 165mm)

So if you want anything half decent you're back to buying a frame, possibly forks and possibly wheels.

That said it matters not a jot if it comes with SRAM X5 or Shimano Tourney as both will end up being ripped off. Either day 1 or later ...

So my philosophy is go for the frame/forks/wheels in the best combo...

Due to my location/availability etc. I ended up with a 2014 Cannondale Race 24 (girls) (...for my boy... did I mention availability as Cannondale no longer sell 24 inch here)

*The frame and forks* will be the only original parts (actually need to replace bars/stem/saddle/seatpost/BB) .. wheels are gone (for disc hubs) .. drive chain is XT M780 with 1x10 narrow wide ... brakes are SLX rear and XT front with XT shifter.

The 152mm 2lb chainring is in the garbage replaced with a 142.5 SRAM S600 that weighs in at half with the narrow wide as he obviously won't fit a 152mm until he's big enough for a 26er.

The reason I got the Cannondale is simply price ... old stock 2014 model with RST Air forks.... cheaper than I can buy a frame and the same forks.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

For some reason there's a Riprock thread in the Specialized forum, I wish they would move that here. 

Anyways, I weighed a base model 24" at my LBS, is 29 lbs 8 ozs. I'm going to pass due to weight.

On the plus side the Q-factor seems identical to a normal Hardrock.


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## LewisQC (Jul 3, 2013)

XJaredX said:


> For some reason there's a Riprock thread in the Specialized forum, I wish they would move that here.
> 
> Anyways, I weighed a base model 24" at my LBS, is 29 lbs 8 ozs. I'm going to pass due to weight.
> 
> On the plus side the Q-factor seems identical to a normal Hardrock.


I just bought a 24" bike (opus fever) and it's less than 26 lbs with pedal and a triple crankset... A lot of those 4lbs are in wheels on the riprock.


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## Chad_M (Jul 11, 2013)

Picked it up on Friday. It is a cool bike IMO, and my son's opinion. I will not repeat all that I like about it, but for those interested, it does use rivets on the chain ring. I don't see changing that anyway on his bike. The bike doesn't feel heavy to me. Seems like a lot of people get skewed perception from their 19lb personal bikes? 

The fork works pretty well even with a 50lb kid on it. I was watching my son do a skinny 2x6 in our back yard, and the fork would compress maybe an inch dropping off the board.


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## Chad_M (Jul 11, 2013)

Breaking it in and a big smile


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## Steve-XtC (Feb 7, 2016)

Chad_M said:


> Picked it up on Friday. It is a cool bike IMO, and my son's opinion. I will not repeat all that I like about it, but for those interested, it does use rivets on the chain ring. I don't see changing that anyway on his bike. The bike doesn't feel heavy to me. Seems like a lot of people get skewed perception from their 19lb personal bikes?
> 
> The fork works pretty well even with a 50lb kid on it. I was watching my son do a skinny 2x6 in our back yard, and the fork would compress maybe an inch dropping off the board.


I'd look at the cranks just from a length perspective.

On weight im far less bothered about the weight of my bike.

I weigh over 3x his weight at about 170 lbs.... I don't race competitively so an extra pound or even 5 makes little difference to me. I carry tools, water, food ... There is little point giving my kid a 10lb pack as the day would be misery for us both.

my kid weighs 22kg or under 50 lbs... So a 5lb difference is huge when we are doing repeated climbs and makes the difference between a half days riding with him tired out and a full day's riding with him having fun.


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## dc40 (Oct 4, 2013)

Weight does make a difference. For majority of the kids and their skill level a 4-7 mile loop (avg 2 hr ride) is usually their max limit w/ minor elevation changes, unless they are really serious about riding... I wouldn't count the grams or $$ to much... unless you enjoy doing the upgrade projects for the kid's bike. 

Cranks length is important, but most kids prefer to have their seat dropped all the way down when riding.... especially newbies to the trail. The longer crank arms will actually benefit those riders that prefer to have seat dropped all way down. Until your little one has built up their skill level/confidence to raise/ride with the seat level at the proper height... you may want to hold off on putting shorter cranks.


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## ETChipotle (Sep 20, 2014)

Rivets at these price points? I didn't see that coming.


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## JTW (Oct 14, 2004)

Chad_M said:


> Breaking it in and a big smile
> View attachment 1060164


Chad - for perspective, can you tell us age/height/inseam for your son? In your photo, he looks to be about the same size as my son (7 y.o./49" tall/22" inseam), but I cannot imagine the 24" version would fit my kid.


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## Steve-XtC (Feb 7, 2016)

JTW said:


> Chad - for perspective, can you tell us age/height/inseam for your son? In your photo, he looks to be about the same size as my son (7 y.o./49" tall/22" inseam), but I cannot imagine the 24" version would fit my kid.


My 6yr old is only a fraction over 4' but very happy on 24" wheels albeit only 2.1" not fatter like the rip rock. He only puts the saddle mostly down on very technical downhills which means over 1' drop offs and jumps (and even then he has 3/4" from the mudguard attachment )

On steep ascents (steeper than 1:4) he has the saddle a good 3-4" up.

I wouldnt dream read of letting him ride on 152mm cranks though.

Hence rivets or not is academic unless the kid is already big enough to ride a 26er ..(5'+). Which makes me wonder if the cranks are like "included pedals" and not really expected to actually be used ???

175mm cranks are designed for 5'10" to 6"
by a simple ratio that makes 152mm cranks suitable for 5'+


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## JTW (Oct 14, 2004)

Thanks Steve. What bike is your 6 y.o. riding? My concern about going with a 24" bike is the standover height and that the bike in general will be too large. My son began riding w/o training wheels before he was 3 and is now an intermediate-level BMX racer, so his bike handling skills are pretty solid. I think he could handle the bigger bike on trails, but will it be so large that it's not fun or practical for him to just ride around our neighborhood?


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## Steve-XtC (Feb 7, 2016)

dc40 said:


> Weight does make a difference. For majority of the kids and their skill level a 4-7 mile loop (avg 2 hr ride) is usually their max limit w/ minor elevation changes, unless they are really serious about riding... I wouldn't count the grams or $$ to much... unless you enjoy doing the upgrade projects for the kid's bike.


My (not particularly fit) kid started on his 20er before his 6th birthday straight from a "pretend" bike. 
After a couple of weekends just getting used to the bike our first ride was 10 miles on the flat, I'd prearranged his mother to pick us up. His mother let us and we had lunch out 
He then decided to cycle home as well so his first real ride was 20 miles...on the flat.

I'd stress again, he wasn't particularly fit at the time.

Almost a year later he now rides far further and or more technical and greater climbs.
Yesterday we did a couple of runs and although only a 8 mile or so loop included a couple of thousand feet of climbing up to 1:2 single track and real technical descents.

Obviously he's much fitter .(and falls into your really keen category) .. Though that in itself isn't a bad thing it also means we can do far more fun runs for both of us.

I'd question how much is expectation and cause and reaction. 
Heavy bike and of course they are limited, just like a 200lb adult would need to be really fit to ride a 70lb bike over the same trail....

The main thing I have found is keep feeding kids. Plenty of stops and food, fluids... Their energy reserves are much lower and they can quickly deplete their livers glycogen. 
Once that happens then best to call it a day...



> Cranks length is important, but most kids prefer to have their seat dropped all the way down when riding.... especially newbies to the trail. The longer crank arms will actually benefit those riders that prefer to have seat dropped all way down. Until your little one has built up their skill level/confidence to raise/ride with the seat level at the proper height... you may want to hold off on putting shorter cranks.


Even if they can keep their feet on throughout they are trying to push down way outside of where they should be (especially when seated with the saddle low) and unless you go clip less straight away just losing efficiency (not even thinking about damage they are potentially doing to their still developing joints)

The actual leverage they lose is minimal and almost everyone that tries appropriate crank length (adults or kids) finds that cadence is better and makes up for loss of leverage.

For years cranks have been what we were given .(even in the adult bike world).. Mostly manufacturers fitting the same crank length regardless of frame size until you are in the near custom bike market....the same cranks are fitted to a XS frame was the XL ... So either it makes no difference or it's what they fit and we never think about it....

Much as this isn't a 29er debate it does seem quite similar ... For years we got 26" or 26" and no one questioned why 26" .... Or if 26" was appropriate to all riding or not .

I don't think anyone competes seriously today in XC on 26" wheels ? So for years they were competing at a very high level on a "what the manufacturers gave you size".

Now serious athletes would choose the wheel size and geometry for a specific race... Yet only a few years ago no one thought to question if 26 was good for everything?


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## Steve-XtC (Feb 7, 2016)

JTW said:


> Thanks Steve. What bike is your 6 y.o. riding? My concern about going with a 24" bike is the standover height and that the bike in general will be too large. My son began riding w/o training wheels before he was 3 and is now an intermediate-level BMX racer, so his bike handling skills are pretty solid. I think he could handle the bigger bike on trails, but will it be so large that it's not fun or practical for him to just ride around our neighborhood?


Its actually a Cannondale Race 24 2014 medium frame ) and the girls model as we can't buy the 24" cannondales here any more and that's what we could buy from old stock.... It also meant it was cheaper so the money we saved on the older model has been spent (and more) on upgrades.

This is the link so you can see the more detailed spec for the 2014 Europe version to compare if you like.

CANNONDALE RACE GIRLS 24" 2014 :: £249.99 :: Kids Bikes :: 24" Wheel (9 to 11 yrs) :: Pauls Cycles

We specifically got that one as it came with RST F1rst Air forks ....and he rides very technical red and now black.

We also kept his 20 incher for street/school etc. 
I'd originally thought to sell it but his mother can't work out QR and the 20er fits in the station wagon with the wheels on .... But also I'm glad we did as it stops him damaging or having his "serious" bike stolen ....

obviously if if your kids racing b,x you don't want that stolen either....

however its its a battle every time to get him to use his old bike... So I don't think it's a matter of not spoiling the fun. Still kids are kids so your image may vary!!!!


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