# FRM 36t conversion kit for 2x9 cassette



## Ausable (Jan 7, 2006)

I am not totally sold to the new 2x9 trend, but this product might be interesting:









Cogset conversion from 11-32 to 12-36	
AVAILABLE IN FEBRUARY 2010

- This kit can convert a Sram or Shimano 11-32T into a 12-36T cogset
....
- The 11T (smaller cog) of an original 11-32 cogset is taken out toghether with its lockring 11T. The 36T biggest cogset in light alloy is added to the pack and a 12T lockring locks the new cogset to the rear hub

The claimed weight of a converted 12-36 XTR cassette is 265g, further information here
http://www.frmbike.biz/index.php?pa...ategory_id=70&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26


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## STS (Jun 24, 2004)

Just what I had in mind some months ago
I was going to order the 36T to Mattias, but I will wait to see the FRM in person


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## unionky (Nov 11, 2009)

I wonder if that kit would work with the new sram xg999 cassette...that cassette is claimed 175g as a 11-32 so it would be even lighter than the xtr!!!


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## amillmtb (Jun 24, 2005)

Wonder how that works seeing as XTR, XT, PG 990, PG 980 are all on an aluminum carrier. I would like to see how it attaches/.


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## racerick (Mar 15, 2009)

unionky said:


> I wonder if that kit would work with the new sram xg999 cassette...that cassette is claimed 175g as a 11-32 so it would be even lighter than the xtr!!!


i intend on finding out


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## STS (Jun 24, 2004)

that is also my question
the best wold be that the cog would incorporate the spacer for 10s (for next future usage), with more surface for not marking alu cores. And then two very thin shims for 8s or 9s cassettes

but I'm sure they have not thought that versatile configuration, and only offer the cog and the spacer for 9s separately


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## racerick (Mar 15, 2009)

anybody know how i can get one of these?
they do not ship to the US


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## thesergeant (Jun 1, 2006)

Oh crap, definitely need this. Where can I find this in the US??


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## david8613 (May 31, 2005)

damn im still on the fence, i want 12-36 but i was leaning towards pg 990, i dont like the idea of damaging my cassette carrier. when is this coming out, i need this as soon as possible...how much is it gonna be usd?


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## Ausable (Jan 7, 2006)

I agree that a single, big ring with no carrier can definitely damage the cassette spline, but if you tigthen the lockring really ... tight, maybe the chain torque will be transferred to the next smaller cogs, whch are mounted onto the carrier.
How did SRAM tackled this problem with the replaceable Alu cog on the XX cassette?


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## checky (Jan 13, 2006)

The 36er of the XX is interlocked to the 32er of the steel part of the XX cassette.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

32/11 - 2.9
36/12 - 3
34/11 - 3.1

So this conversion has smaller range then 34/11 and about the same weight. Why would not just you go one cog down in size in front with 11-34 - same low range, same high range?

A good option to have to fine tune if you do not want to change your crankset I guess.. For 1x9 that would definitely make no sense..


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## AlexRandall (Apr 2, 2009)

I don't think its the range that everyone is concerned with. For 2x9/10 its all about how low you can get the gears to go.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

AlexRandall said:


> I don't think its the range that everyone is concerned with. For 2x9/10 its all about how low you can get the gears to go.


Right - but I thought that is what 30t and 21t front rings are for.. Should be even easier for 2x9 - just pick 26/39 instead of 27/40...

I wish SRAM made 11-36 in 9-speed, for a 1x9; but 12-36 just seemed a bit redundant option compared with 11-34 and smaller front...


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

i'm resolved to using 11-34 x9 with 40/26 - if i find i ever need a 36 cog on my 26er i'll just have to train harder!


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## nitropowered (Aug 30, 2007)

50 Euros for 1 cog?

How much is Mattais' cog?

This thing will be sweet for the new sram cassette.


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## racerick (Mar 15, 2009)

mattias wants 42 euro for his
im having trouble corresponding with him


also, sram says it wont work, but i think they are supposed to say that.....


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## STS (Jun 24, 2004)

frm 36T is ramped and with spacer


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## racerick (Mar 15, 2009)

i can't find any way to get one here in the U.S.


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## rroadie (Aug 3, 2008)

I've got a 36t ti cog from Mattias.It took a while to get but it is awesome. Works great, light, and it gave me the lower bail out gear I wanted. I'd deal with him again.:thumbsup:


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## Mattias_Hellöre (Oct 2, 2005)

Hi everyone, I had some problems with my computers and a server crash.
So please have patience.


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

*FRM 11-32 to 12-36 conversion cogs on scales*

finally, here's our FRM 36t cogs all the way from Italia via France

not in any hurry to obsolete our bikes drivetrains with 10 speed (untill its worn out) so here's my "little helper" for my 2x9 40/26 trailbike, the lovelly mrs culturesponge will be using hers (red ano) with an XTR M970 44t + Rotor Q-Ring 33t & 23t inner chainrings

mine (gold) will be matte black ceramic before it goes on my bike - loathe red or gold ano, i know it will start to show on the teeth in about 1 second - but at least the rest will be black with dirt

from what little information i can gather, the forthcoming XTR M980 11-36 10 speed cassette will be somewhere in the same 270g(ish) weight range as our converted XTR M970 11-32 9 speed cassettes. :thumbsup:

...blah from FRM.....

* This kit can convert a 9s Sram or Shimano 11-32T into a 12-36T cogset
* Compatible with 26" bikes and regular triple or double drivetrain
* The 11T (smaller cog) of an original 11-32 cogset is taken out together with its lockring 11T. The 36T biggest cogset in light alloy is added to the pack and a new 12T lockring locks the new cogset to the rear hub 
* Made in Italy
* CNC machined from light alloy 7075
* Ramps and carefully shaped teeth for optimal shifting precision
* Red or Gold anodised and laser etched
* Weight: 57g - actual 59g & 60g

......edit to add instructions....


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## xcatax (Mar 26, 2009)

wheres weight loss ? :skep: 
I prefer you cutting carbon seatposts than this


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

xcatax said:


> wheres weight loss ? :skep:
> I prefer you cutting carbon seatposts than this


sorry for not responding sooner to your question you are on my ignore list 

...do you really want to know where the weight loss is? (or are you still trolling)

Shimano HG61 12-36 weighs 419g = that's a 147g weight loss on this cassette
her old Shimano XT CS-M770 11-34 cassette weighs 313g = 41g weight loss.

when it is eventually available the XTR CS-M980 11-36 10 speed only has 21-24-28-32-36 as titanium sprockets - so doubt very much if its less than 272g (the 11-34 is supposed to be 255g)

the 60g gold FRM 36t cog is off to the father-in-laws machine shop this weekend, 35-45g is possible if i have the time - but i don't want it to be too flexy after tuning so won't go crazy :thumbsup:

......edit to try to add XTR M980 information....

......anyone have a confirmed weight for the XTR M980 11-36???


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## xcatax (Mar 26, 2009)

My english is very very bad but you play understanding only you like .
*Hows supposed a 272g cassette called weightweenie component ?*
My transmision works in MOUNTAIN BIKE
Chainring 32t 
Cassette 11-30t 167g
Rear der short cage
98 chain links
I hope you get it now

PD stop calling me troll thats cheap


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

xcatax said:


> *Hows supposed a 272g cassette called weightweenie component ?*


Light component is a part that performs a given function and weights the least.

A component that weights the least but does not do what you need is garbage.

11-30 cassette does not work for his wife or him. It does not matter what it weights.


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## xcatax (Mar 26, 2009)

Lightweight components are not for everybody and you can not call garbage every lightweight component you can not ride .
You can combine 11-30 or 11-32 with small chainrings and get same but weight loss .


> Light component is a part that performs a given function and weights the least.


 The lighter the better , go on a diet .


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## Mattias_Hellöre (Oct 2, 2005)

This type of FRM cog is a excellent idea to widen the range of a proven and well shifting cassette.

My titanium 36T cog is functioning similar, BUT not recommended for aluminum freehubs, the cog itself are big and will eat into the body too quickly, titanium and steel freehubs is better suitable for MTB use anyway.


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

xcatax said:


> Lightweight components are not for everybody and you can not call garbage every lightweight component you can not ride .
> You can combine 11-30 or 11-32 with small chainrings and get same but weight loss .
> The lighter the better , go on a diet .


Nice detailed report-thanks!

I'm with Culturesponge here:
@xcatax:
Why are you posting in here if it has nothing to do with a (lightweight) 36t cassette?
There's no need to post your setup in every other thread. We all saw your bike in it's own thread and you have done a great job there.But me either i would be happy with your setup...let other people live and accept that they may have different needs. Me either i wouldn't want a 36t pizza-like cassette and me too i think you could get away by using smaller chainrings up front... but other people have different needs so just accept them, ok?

As Culturesponge already pointed out so far 36t cassettes all are boat anchors and with the growing number of people going with 2 chainrings up front as well as the 29er guys etc. there's a demand for lightweight cassettes with 36t. So far only SRAM offers a lightweight 36t cassette but it comes with 10 speeds which again A LOT of people still don't want or need. Like it or don't like it...the demand is here and there's people wanting such gearings.

While FRMs approach is a viable option i still think that's just half the solution as by removing the 11t some of the large gearspread is gone again. And only if you pair it to a XTR cassette you get a decent weight cassette which again raises the cost for such a setup. I can only speak for myself but i would definitely miss the 11t on top speed. That's too much compromise and still a bit too heavy for my taste.

As mentioned in another thread i should get some lighter 11-36 / 9s (and 12/36 ) Titanium cassettes soon which will fill the void of lightweight 9s cassettes with 36t. But so far the FRM is for sure the cheapest way to get a decent weight 36t cassette.


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## Mattias_Hellöre (Oct 2, 2005)

My idea is to don´t take out the 11 or 12T , instead take out any other cog, it´s what I told people which bought my 36T.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

xcatax said:


> Lightweight components are not for everybody and you can not call garbage every lightweight component you can not ride .




Did you notice people laughing in your general direction?


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## xcatax (Mar 26, 2009)

Curmy said:


> Did you notice people laughing in your general direction?


 No im upset because theres people trying to convince others use heavyweight stuff disguised as light . Its exactly same situation as foss tubes , theres better lightweight options and 272g cassette is nowhere light , this is my opinion .


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

Mattias_HellÃ¶re said:


> My idea is to don´t take out the 11 or 12T , instead take out any other cog, it´s what I told people which bought my 36T.


sorry Mattias - that's even worse as it leaves you with a big gap somewhere in the middle of the cassette....i think that's definitely not what you want to have.


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## fastback67 (Apr 6, 2010)

Mattias_HellÃ¶re said:


> My idea is to don´t take out the 11 or 12T , instead take out any other cog, it´s what I told people which bought my 36T.


11-36 sounds great to me, but do you have also a proposal with which cogs (may from dura ace?) i get a consistant increase of the transmission ratio ?
thanks


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## AkumaY (May 19, 2006)

racerick said:


> i can't find any way to get one here in the U.S.


ya, anyone got any leads on FRM parts? where to buy?


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

nino said:


> sorry Mattias - that's even worse as it leaves you with a big gap somewhere in the middle of the cassette....i think that's definitely not what you want to have.


Unless you run 1x9 - in this case overall range could be more important then gaps. 11-14 is a huge jump, but if you only use it as "overdrive" on descends, could be usable..


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

*rational ratios*



AkumaY said:


> ya, anyone got any leads on FRM parts? where to buy?


ours was a special order from : http://www.jpracingbike1.com/

but they are instock here : http://www.dulight.fr

also : http://r2-bike.com/

...................

thanks nino

xcatax - you punk kid you! ... i feel your pain & know what your saying bro'/homes/peeps/ect - 272g is a brick compared to a road cassette - but not every ride is a race on a flimsy weenie bike.

bike riding in genuine mountains is alot of fun too (look at the top of the page this is a MOUNTAIN bike website) flatlander roadbike gear ratios are no use at altitude on steep trails

not sure if my own FRM 36t will ever see that much use TBH - i do okay with a 168g XG-999 11-32 on local trails & a 229g XTR+Yumeya 11-34 on steeper SoCal coastal climbs

bought the 36t for wifey & added another to my order at the last second - just incase i can't keep up with her afterwards! :thumbsup:


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## xcatax (Mar 26, 2009)

Im not good at talking eng , auto quote


> You can combine 11-30 or 11-32 with small chainrings and get same but weight loss .


 ...get same gear ratio ? . I think you know about simplify adding a 36t is opposite so you gain weight and an alu 36t supposed not used often ? .... its funy yeah , market demands


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## Circlip (Mar 29, 2004)

xcatax said:


> ...get same gear ratio ? . I think you know about simplify adding a 36t is opposite so you gain weight


Simplifies by getting down to 2x front rings.



xcatax said:


> an alu 36t supposed not used often ?


If that's the case I guess we all need to stop using Aluminum chaingrings on the front too. The 36 rear cog will contacts so many teeth with the chain that durability should not be an issue. Smaller cogs with all the force on only a few teeth at a time are more of a problem with Aluminum.


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## scooter916 (Jan 2, 2006)

I just received my Action Tec ti 36t cog, If I remember correctly it was 57g. 
I used it with an XT 11-32 and removed my 11t, it now weighs 303g with a steel lockring, gotta get a 12t alloy lockring soon.
my old HG70 was 422g wuth out lockring so i saved 100g very easily. 
I only need the 36t for one race (Leadville) and will go back to a 11-32 999x cassette


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

scooter916 said:


> I just received my Action Tec ti 36t cog, If I remember correctly it was 57g.
> I used it with an XT 11-32 and removed my 11t, it now weighs 303g with a steel lockring, gotta get a 12t alloy lockring soon.
> my old HG70 was 422g wuth out lockring so i saved 100g very easily.
> I only need the 36t for one race (Leadville) and will go back to a 11-32 999x cassette


You will also need a final 12t if you don't want to take out a cog in the middle which otherwise will leave you with a bad/huge gap...


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

How is a 12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36 leaving a huge gap in the middle?


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## fastback67 (Apr 6, 2010)

is it possible to create a 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32-36 with shimano parts plus this FRM cog?


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## scooter916 (Jan 2, 2006)

nino said:


> You will also need a final 12t if you don't want to take out a cog in the middle which otherwise will leave you with a bad/huge gap...


I am using the 12t as the first position


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

With XTR you could, but you'd need the spider half of the 11-32, the smaller cog half of the 11-34, and the 36T FRM/ActionTec cog. Fortunetly it is possible to order the XTR sub-assemblies seperate, which is why they make them that way. I believe the 21-24-28-32 is the titanium cog/spider sub-assembly, then you need the smaller cog groups although I cannot remember if the 18 and 16T are together or seperate.


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## checky (Jan 13, 2006)

At 970 XTR 11-32 the four biggest cogs are on two spiders, so the five smallest are single cogs. I guess the 11-36 solution from fastback67 should work. 
970 11-32 is original 11-12-14-16-18-*21-24*-*28-32*
You get 13 and 15 from Dura Ace 7700 as a single cog. The 13 is for the second and third position, there should the shiftig ramp be OK. 15 is for the fourth and fives position, so the shifting ramp is one position displaced. Could be an issue during shifting from 13 --> 15 and from 15 --> 18.
In principle a very great idea. Should be tested.


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

*XTR M970 11-32 (on scales*

i obviously have too much time on my hands lately 

in prep for the FRM 36t "upgrade" i cleaned and weighed a bedded-in XTR M970 11-32

not sure if this will help - but there you go :thumbsup:

pics 
1. XTR M970 11-32 cassette 28 + 32t spider
2. XTR M970 11-32 cassette 21 + 24t spider 
3. XTR M970 11-32 cassette 16 + 18t spider
4. XTR M970 11-32 cassette 14t cog
5. XTR M970 11-32 cassette 12t cog
6. XTR M970 11-32 cassette 11t cog
7. XTR M970 11-32 cassette 11t lockring
8. Chris King 12t alloy lockring


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

I dont think the ramps moving about will make that much difference. Missaligned HG ramps still work better than SRAM, Suntour, or Sunrace's ramp.


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

DeeEight said:


> How is a 12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36 leaving a huge gap in the middle?


 my concern was a reply to Mattias saying that he would leave the 11t in place and take out another cog elsewhere...that's what will result in a huge gap somewhere in the middle which definitely is NOT what we are looking for.

Moving the shifting ramps:
i once tried changing a 12-27 DA cassette to 11-27 by adding a 11t and taking out i think the 13t or 14t (i can't remember which one it was). Anyway - the result was a hesitation when changing gears over that missing cog...the shifting ramps in shimano cassettes are all aligned one behind the other. By taking out a cog you make a gap also in the aligned shifting ramps which i found made for a big hesitation when changing gears...so much that i had to give up and went back to the original 12-27.


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

nino said:


> my concern was a reply to Mattias saying that he would leave the 11t in place and take out another cog elsewhere...that's what will result in a huge gap somewhere in the middle which definitely is NOT what we are looking for.


Apparently not since you quoted back scooter... not mattias. Stop listening to the voices telling you to be a prick and actually pay attention to who you're replying to for a change.


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

DeeEight said:


> Apparently not since you quoted back scooter... not mattias. Stop listening to the voices telling you to be a prick and actually pay attention to who you're replying to for a change.


D8 - Do you have a visibility problem? Serious question!!

http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7135961&postcount=33


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## fastback67 (Apr 6, 2010)

reg. the wrong position of the shifting ramp at the 15T cog:
i think it could be possible to correct this. the cog’s bigger dent, which specify the position on the freehub, could be filed off. then you are able to turn the cog and therewith the shifting ramp in the right (or more optimal) position.
??


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

fastback67 said:


> reg. the wrong position of the shifting ramp at the 15T cog:
> i think it could be possible to correct this. the cog's bigger dent, which specify the position on the freehub, could be filed off. then you are able to turn the cog and therewith the shifting ramp in the right (or more optimal) position.
> ??


...which then results in a bad position of the shifting ramps when going on to the next cog.


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## fastback67 (Apr 6, 2010)

you seriously recommend in other threads this ****ing china titan cassettes with very bad shifting performance and talk here about one (*1*) cog ?

i think the


checky said:


> You get 13 and 15 from Dura Ace 7700 as a single cog. The 13 is for the second and third position, there should the shiftig ramp be OK. 15 is for the fourth and fives position, so the shifting ramp is one position displaced. Could be an issue during shifting from 13 --> 15 and from 15 --> 18


solution is worth to try.


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

fastback67 said:


> you seriously recommend in other threads this ****ing china titan cassettes with very bad shifting performance and talk here about one (*1*) cog ?
> 
> i think the
> solution is worth to try.


Absolutely!
The Ti cassettes perform good. No comparison to the hesitation you get when taking out a cog in a Shimano cassette. As mentioned i have done it and went back as the gap the missing cog left was really annoying. It just wouldn't shift.


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## fastback67 (Apr 6, 2010)

nino said:


> The Ti cassettes perform good.


please kid others :nono:


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## xcatax (Mar 26, 2009)

fastback67 said:


> please kid others :nono:


 The Ti Cassettes perfom good .


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## Epic XC (Dec 14, 2005)

The ramp alignment definitely makes a differrence . A few years back I put together an 8 speed 11-19 cassette using random sprockets from road and mtb groups it shifted terribly.


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

nino said:


> D8 - Do you have a visibility problem? Serious question!!
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7135961&postcount=33


You apparently are the one with it, along with a memory problem.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7139595&postcount=41


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## facelessfools (Aug 30, 2008)

> The Ti Cassettes perfom good .


mine does


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

DeeEight said:


> You apparently are the one with it, along with a memory problem.
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7139595&postcount=41


C'mon -
Scooter916 said he only bought a 36t to convert his cassette....so my reply was that he also needs a special final 12t cog if he is going to take out the formerly final 11t...
look at Culturesponges detailed post and you will notice that there is a special 12t, not the regular 12t you have in a 11-32 cassette....OTHERWISE it would leave him with that big gap somewhere else....just like Mattias post where he suggests leaving the final 11t in place while taking out any other cog....maybe you understand now?

Has that sunk in now....Can we move on?


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## Mattias_Hellöre (Oct 2, 2005)

Nino: my suggestion to take a another cog out is not a perfect solution, the FRM or my 36T add on are not a perfect solution either, so compromises are made.

Sometimes there´s no downsides, sometimes the downsides are not worth it.

I have learned it in the hard way and I will not hiding any info.


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

nino said:


> C'mon -
> Scooter916 said he only bought a 36t to convert his cassette....so my reply was that he also needs a special final 12t cog if he is going to take out the formerly final 11t...


Yes, you were an idiot as usual. Scooter also said he added the 36T to convert an 11-32 shimano cassette. Well if you ACTUALLY knew **** rather than just regurgitating stuff you read on the german websites, you might know that the second cog on a shimano 11-32 is a 12T, and that it works perfectly with a 12T size lockring.


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## rockhound (Dec 19, 2005)

culturesponge said:


> i obviously have too much time on my hands lately
> 
> in prep for the FRM 36t "upgrade" i cleaned and weighed a bedded-in XTR M970 11-32
> 
> ...


It would be cool if somebody made a 36t cog that locked into the back of the 28-32 assembly somehow, spreading the forces onto that carrier as well, instead of just relying on the freehub splines.


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

*tuned/custom FRM 36t cog*



rockhound said:


> It would be cool if somebody made a 36t cog that locked into the back of the 28-32 assembly somehow, spreading the forces onto that carrier as well, instead of just relying on the freehub splines.


agreed, would be best

been for a couple of rides with the FRM 36t cog onboard, not properly tested yet on my local trails - but have changed the freehub from 190 to 240 incase of sheering & will trying to spin & not stomp - but will probably forget

anyway, here's my gold FRM 36t cog after tuning + matte black ceramic coating (before it wears off)


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

rockhound said:


> It would be cool if somebody made a 36t cog that locked into the back of the 28-32 assembly somehow, spreading the forces onto that carrier as well, instead of just relying on the freehub splines.


That's what my prototype Ti-cassette does - it has the 36t attached to the spider so forces get transferred to a large area on the freehub.


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## ericxg (Jul 26, 2009)

*XX 36t??*

I'm wondering if we might be able to do the same thing with an aluminum 36t cog from a SRAM XX cassette, and maybe a spacer or two if needed? The cog is supposed to be replaceable so there should be spares available...

Anyone tried this? Anyone know exactly how thick the XX 36t is?


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## Jake Pay (Dec 27, 2006)

Who is selling the 36t replacement cog








​BTI....https://www.bti-usa.com/public/category/CS/CSCS/GS/GS2678?page=1#GS2678


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## ericxg (Jul 26, 2009)

Jake Pay said:


> Who is selling the 36t replacement cog


No kidding. I'm not finding it in stock anywhere either. Still seems like it might work when they become available.

I've also not been able to find any info on the thickness of the cog, but I doubt the base would be too thick to make it work with 9 speed spacing?

Anyone know what that dimension is??


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## Jake Pay (Dec 27, 2006)

ericxg said:


> No kidding. I'm not finding it in stock anywhere either. Still seems like it might work when they become available.
> 
> I've also not been able to find any info on the thickness of the cog, but I doubt the base would be too thick to make it work with 9 speed spacing?
> 
> Anyone know what that dimension is??


Looks like a 9 speed with a 36t is happening








https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/sram-xg-999-cassette​Technology X-Glide shifting 
Weight 175 *(11-36)* 
Material CNC'd 4140 chromoly steel 
Gear Ratios 11/1/1936 
Speeds 9 Speed 
Recommended Chain PC 991 
Lock Ring Material AL-7075-T6 
Sprocket Material AL-7075-T6 
Compatibility 9 speed


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

Looks like a misprint or error, they're showing a photo of the same 11-32T XG-999 that has been causing me some frustration.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Jake Pay said:


> Looks like a 9 speed with a 36t is happening
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yep , they were talking about this last year , been waiting .


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

*219g FRM 36t conversion cog + SRAM XG-999 12-32*

(too much time on my hands again) chuffed my XTR M970/FRM 12-36 is about 3g lighter than the new XTR M980 11-36 - but can always do better! - so have been trying the 36t cog with a SRAM XG-999 12-32 spider

not been out to test it properly yet, but shifts great on the workstand + 48g lighter than using Shimano XTR M970 12-32 cogs :thumbsup:

pics
1. SRAM XG-999 12-32 spider
2. FRM/SRAM 12-36 cassette on scales
3. FRM/SRAM 12-36 cassette installed

(ps. best price for the XG-999 is still speedgoat bicycles @ $247.97 - tree fort bikes will price match that + free postage)



</a

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/culturesponge/4904989249/" title="custom SRAM/FRM 12-36 9 spd casssette installed (front) - 18.08.10 #3174 v2 by culturesponge, on Flickr">


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## Tax-Man (Sep 29, 2007)

Does anyone know if the FRM 36t conversion kit works with an XT 11-32 cassette or does it need to be an XTR?

/* Jörgen */


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## ayjay69 (Mar 9, 2008)

It will work fine


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## kakachi (Dec 1, 2008)

I have the xtr 11-34. Will this work on my cassette?


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

nope - only 11-32 cassettes


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## timbat (Aug 22, 2008)

How do the 36Ts work with a rear mech that has a maximum specced cog size of 34T ?

And will the FRM work with an XTR M960 11-32 ?


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## timbat (Aug 22, 2008)

How does the FRM 36T work with a rear mech with maximum specced 34T cog ?

And will it work with an 11-32 M960 XTR cassette ?


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

timbat said:


> How does the FRM 36T work with a rear mech with maximum specced 34T cog ?
> 
> And will it work with an 11-32 M960 XTR cassette ?


had no problems using medium XO RD's with the FRM 36t

not tried the FRM 36t with an XTR 960 11-32 but I can't imagine there would be any issues

one problem so far is the 36t puts alot of stress on the freehub, the wife's bike that's full time 12-36 (with XTR M970 11-32) - the Chris King lockring came loose after a short climb yesterday

the FRM 36t conversion cog is pretty much loose on the freehub and not secure on a spider like most of the other cogs - so it is really only suitable for nothing more than very gentle spinning on climbs & can/will come loose under too much torque - well at least with Chris King 12t lockrings - will now try another 12t lockring

...edit to add more info...


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

nino said:


> my concern was a reply to Mattias saying that he would leave the 11t in place and take out another cog elsewhere...that's what will result in a huge gap somewhere in the middle which definitely is NOT what we are looking for.
> 
> Moving the shifting ramps:
> i once tried changing a 12-27 DA cassette to 11-27 by adding a 11t and taking out i think the 13t or 14t (i can't remember which one it was). Anyway - the result was a hesitation when changing gears over that missing cog...the shifting ramps in shimano cassettes are all aligned one behind the other. By taking out a cog you make a gap also in the aligned shifting ramps which i found made for a big hesitation when changing gears...so much that i had to give up and went back to the original 12-27.


I sympathise with Mattias, as the whole point of the 2x10 and adding a 36T, etc is to increase the range; so sacrificing the 11t when you only have a 42 or a 39 upfront instead of a 44 does not make sense to me, unless you are just unfit and need a 36t on the back with your 22 up front??? I say this as someone who also does single speed and is used to over spinning 

Basically an 11-32 jumps 11,12,14,16,18,21,24,28,32 and an 11-34 have different steps (11,13,15,17,20,23,26,30,34) so if you were really finekety and had two worn cassettes as I do, you could take the 11t from the 11-32 and the 13 and maybe also the 15 from the 11-34... If not, I would still tend to agree with Mattias and try and take the biggest loose cog out (16t?). As an aside, i once sheered the 13 or 15 cog of badly assembled rockhopper (evans cycles victoria, London) and slightly-off topic they accused me of taking the cog apart and losing a cog, as they had never seen a sheered cog... this was even though they agreed from the frame that this brand new bike had never had the rear wheel removed and the lockring showed it had never been undone... anyway: they put the cassette back and the well aligned now 8 speed cassette shifted just as good as the 9 speed on a rockhopper with deore kit... minus one of the cogs.

I agree Nino that this maybe more noticeable on XT/XTR, but XTR let's you shift two at a time so should manage better in theory???


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## Stratocaster (Sep 30, 2004)

*U.s.a. ?*

Available where? Any U.S. distributors?

I kind of need english and U.S. dollars.


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## Emilio (Nov 3, 2004)

Sorry to dig up this old post...

Culturesponge, did you have more issues with the FRM cog? 
I currently run a double 40/27 but this will not be low enough for a stagerace in the alps. I have to decide to buy either a triple crank or this FRM kit... 27/36 will do the trick for me.


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

Emilio said:


> Sorry to dig up this old post...
> 
> Culturesponge, did you have more issues with the FRM cog?
> I currently run a double 40/27 but this will not be low enough for a stagerace in the alps. I have to decide to buy either a triple crank or this FRM kit... 27/36 will do the trick for me.


should work fine, just check the lockring after your 1st few rides - it might need tightening slightly till the cog has settled-in

i've no probs to report, but i stopped using mine after only a few hours on the bike - 95% of the time i ride trails from my front door & really never needed it afterall - my trailbike has 40/26 chainrings + 11-34 or 11-32 9 speed cassettes

best
alex


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## BubbleGum (Dec 2, 2011)

I'm sorry for lifting this old post, but I need this conversion kit and I can't find it on FRM website. Do you know if they stopped making it? How much was it by the way?


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

:thumbsup:


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