# New Genesis v2100....Help?



## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

I recently purchased (from Wal-Mart, no less) a Genesis v2100. The front disk brake is ok, being made in Taiwan (the company is some Artek company?). The gear shift is Shimano which is great. I have a Planet Bike light and a Bell speedometer. My main worry is that the front fork suspension seems a bit tight...I'll add a link to the photos and ask for anyone's opinion on whether the bike is decent for riding the mountains lightly or not. Also if I should swap out the front fork suspension with something like a Rock Shox setup or what-have-you. Thanks for any help!  https://www.facebook.com/media/set/fbx/?set=a.1700056353368.2082143.1596699250&l=204f68007b


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

What exactly do you mean by "tight"? Do you mean that the fork won't compress easily? Do you mean that it is difficult to turn the handlebars?

I would not rush to replace the fork. Just ride the bike for awhile the way you bought it.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

lol this is the same bike I bought last month. In my experience, the bike is actually a decent build. The drive train and brakes are pretty good considering it's price, but the shocks were terrible. The v2100 would be a great commuter bike and very acceptable on hardpack and light trails. Shifts smooth and stops on a dime. But the suspension is lacking and wouldn't be any good on rugged mountain trails. I ended up selling my V2100 and got a bike from bikesdirect.com. If you're going to spend another $150 on a rockshox fork, that would put you in the $300 total for the bike, in which case, you'd be better off gettin ga bike from www.bikesdirect.com

If money is an issue, the V2100 is a good bike for it's price and IMO, it's better than the Mongoose and greatly surpasses the Next bikes.

The suspension on your front fork only has about 30 or 50 mm of travel and the preload is set for a 160 pound person and yes, they do rebound rather quickly. Can't be adjusted. The forks are crap.

I ended up with a Windsor 4900 from bikes direct. A friend now has the V2100.

If you want my advice, if you plan on doing any Downhill, Uphill or long cross country trips, you might be better doing what I did. Sell the V2100 and go to Bikesdirect.com and get a $300-$400 bike. You'll notice the difference in mechanical quality as soon as you pull it out of the box.


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

Thanks you two. I will end up riding the bike the way it is for a while until I get more onto the mountain trails, at which point I probably will upgrade the front fork and perhaps the mid-shock as well (though I do not see much problme with it....yet). I too noticed the small amount of give in the front fork suspension but like you noted as well, the body seems to be a great solid build. The Genesis company is actually opening a website (http://www.genbikes.com/) in about 4 days. So I am looking forward to seeing what it is all about. As you can clearly tell I am new here but wish to become an long-time member. Thank you both for your help and if you have any further advice I am humbly willing to accept. I do not wish to sell the bike per se, rather I would build upon it and replace parts etc as needed/necessary.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

Well in that case, welcome to the forums. Fair warning tho, everybody here will try to talk you into taking the walmart ride back lol. Just keep in mind that they're just trying to offer their personal opinions and look out for you, so don't take offense to any of it. In truth, building on a Walmart bike is risky. The last bike I had from walmart was a Mongoose and it wasn't that good. My girlfriends family all bought Next bikes and they are just terrible. As much as I'd like to see you with a bike from bikesdirect, do what you want to do and if you decide to get a better ride later on, I do highly recommend the B.D. site for future reference.

But no matter what you decide, you're welcome in the forums! Have fun riding! Looking forward to seeing you around.

PS, saw your ride in your profile. The cable lock you have won't work. Thieves can break those rope locks in seconds. Keep the bike if you want to, but please get a good U-lock to go along with the cable. And check out this video:


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

gemini9 said:


> Fair warning tho, everybody here will try to talk you into taking the walmart ride back lol.


Not everybody.



> The cable lock you have won't work. Thieves can break those rope locks in seconds.


Have you ever seen those cable locks used on laptop computers? Some have alarms built in. About a decade ago I did some testing on those for the company I worked for at the time. Among other things, the brand we were testing had cables thin enough to be cut with office scissors. With a bike cable lock, it's probably just a matter of getting bigger scissors.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

gemini9 said:


> lol this is the same bike I bought last month. In my experience, the bike is actually a decent build.


No offence, but you don't really have the experience.



Lochcelious said:


> ...at which point I probably will upgrade the front fork and perhaps the mid-shock as well...


Do not upgrade _anything_ on that bike. It's simply not worth it. Just save your money and buy a better bike.


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## Nadric (Apr 12, 2011)

bad mechanic said:


> Do not upgrade _anything_ on that bike. It's simply not worth it. Just save your money and buy a better bike.


Truth.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

bad mechanic said:


> No offence, but you don't really have the experience.


Well, true. With the overall mtb scene I'm rather inexperienced. But I have seen and ridden the exact bike he purchased (for a month and half) and am able to compare it to the Windsor I'm riding now. Yes, there is a big difference in the two and I agree that if an exchange is possible, to go with a better bike. My new Windsor is much better than the v2100, but it did cost a bit more. But for $150, it's decent for hardpack and pavement. But if you read the rest of my statements, I did say that it's not going to cut it he's going to be be on any trails and also said that it's not worth upgrading.

Some people don't have $400 to spend on a mountain bike and don't have much of a choice. For some, $150 is the limit. Just saying that if I had to choose between a Walmart Goose, Next, Huffy, or Gen, I'd grab up the Gen.

But I can understand your point and admit that I have got allot to learn about the sport, which is why I'm hanging out in the beginners area.  Just offering my 2 pennies.

PS, nah. No offense taken.  Just including myself in the conversation.


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

Sorry I don't have 5-8,000 bucks to dish out on some sick Specialized (I see some of the bikes people have here). I will do what I will with what I have. I already spent 150 on the bike, what can I do now? Take it back? I would feel dumb doing so, not to mention not having had it for long. So I should save and buy a new one (Already?) down the road? Fine. I'll see what I can do. Thanks for being the only one to welcome me and making me feel welcome, Gemini.


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

I apologize to all here. That was an unnecessary lash-out and certainly did not leave a good first impression. After thinking about it a bit, I have decided to take you all up on the offer. I am going to leave at once (after removing the stuff I have added to the bike) to return the bike to wal-mart and will properly order a bike from the website you mentioned later today. Thank you all for your help...now I just have to say...any suggestions on what to buy?


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## Nadric (Apr 12, 2011)

I don't know how close you are to Portland (your profile says OR), but I'd keep my eye on craigslist. Portland is kinda known for having a great bike culture.

Bikes Direct(.com) is another option, if you want a new bike. They get mixed reviews here, but I've dealt with them in the past and have nothing but good things to say.

As far as the Wally bike goes, we didn't intend to sound offensive, but number of threads here about Walmart bikes is staggering. And I've only been here a week or two! But it really isn't worth putting money into one of those bikes.

Edit: And I left out the obvious suggestion of visiting your local bike shop.


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

After watching that vid, looks like im returning the bike lock as well. Thanks for that...any suggestiuons on a bike lock also?


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

Lochcelious said:


> After watching that vid, looks like im returning the bike lock as well. Thanks for that...any suggestiuons on a bike lock also?


This is scary to hear, but no lock is really a good lock. It's like this, it takes a couple seconds to snip a cable lock or pick a number lock. It takes a LITTLE longer to get through a u-lock. If you have a u-lock and a cable lock both, it will give you about a minute or two because different tools are required for different locks. No matter what lock you use, a good thief can break it quick. (a portable battery op grinder can cut any lock in 30 seconds or less. There was guy in here a few days ago, locked his bike up, went into gamestop, game out and his brand new bike was GONE. Bike theft is very high, especially on campus. The best advice anybody can give you, is get both a u-lock and a cable lock and don't leave your bike by itself unless you absolutely HAVE to. My bike is kept right behind me here, in my room.

If you are taking the walmart bike back and they won't take it, try this:
break it... well don't break it.. just take out a screw or something and take it to a different walmart. Tell them you've been having trouble with it ever since you got it that parts keep breaking and you want to return it. If they don't give you refund, at least ask for a gift card with the purchase amount. Many people would buy that gift card off you for it's value. Or you could use it to buy your pump, gloves, helmet and stuff.

I had no trouble at all when I ordered from bikesdirect and I got a better deal than I would have at the bike shop. If you go that route, spend at least $300. Many of the $300 bikes are sold out, but a representative told me they will be restocking soon so you may want to shoot them an email if a bike you want isn't in stock. they might be getting more tomorrow. You're only problem will be getting the brakes and gears adjusted. Putting it together is easy. Pedals, handlebars and front wheel.


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

So I returned the bike without a hitch. Now I am going to look at the bikesdirect.com site. Any suggestions in what I should buy? I would really enjoy a full sus, though most here seem to enjoy hardtail.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

Right now, many of their bikes are sold out but the rep told me last week they are expecting a shipment of new bikes in 3 weeks (two weeks now). 
Hardtails: They don't break as easy and you can get a better grade bike for your money. From what I understand, even a $300-$400 full suspension bike wouldn't be worth it. But you're right, hardtails seem to the majority of voters. I know it sounds like a "downgrade" from your full suspension walmart, but a good hardtail is awesome. 

It's been raining all day so I've been computer bound for several hours. Sigh. I hate the rain season.

When I was looking and comparing, I was looking at the Dawes Haymakers, Windsor Cliffs and the Motobecane series bikes. All similar in price and similar entry level parts. Have to find one that fits tho. How tall are you?


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

six foot. I like what I see with the full sus Motobecanes....I've just never owned anything other than full sus....not to mention I've broken a few axles in my time (im not THAT heavy....205 pounds) and figured full sus would actually help prevent damage...


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

Was looking at this one for hardtail: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/motobecane_700HT_xi.htm
and this one for full sus: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/700ds_x.htm


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

I've decided I'm going to buy a full suspension. I was raised on it and never had problems (albeit broken axles when I was younger; my "style" was uncoordinatedly rough on the urban terrain). I'm thinking the Motobecane DS series. Now it comes down to whether the features in the 700DS are worth upgrading from the 600DS. Any suggestions? 600DS: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/600ds.htm
700DS: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/700ds_x.htm


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

hmm. I'm not sure. When it comes to comparing parts, i have no idea. Maybe one of the experienced bikers can help y a out on this one.  Either way, it'll most def be better than the genesis.


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

Lochcelious said:


> I've decided I'm going to buy a full suspension. I was raised on it and never had problems (albeit broken axles when I was younger; my "style" was uncoordinatedly rough on the urban terrain). I'm thinking the Motobecane DS series. Now it comes down to whether the features in the 700DS are worth upgrading from the 600DS. Any suggestions? 600DS: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/600ds.htm
> 700DS: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/700ds_x.htm


No Offence.

It has been said before and will be said again in the future. If you only have $500 to $600 to spend on a bike. Buy a HARDTAIL either new from BD if you like or a second hand bike.

If you want a "full suspension" bike to look cool riding around on bike paths buy a $500 squishy. As soon as you ride it in a proper offroad area you will regret it and possibly end up damaging the bike and yourself.

It's your money spend it how you wish.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

@Loch, are there any dealers in your area? Have you considered visiting those dealers and looking at some bikes in person?


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

gemini9 said:


> If money is an issue, the V2100 is a good bike for it's price and IMO, it's better than the Mongoose and greatly surpasses the Next bikes.


No. At this price point it's always a mistake buying full suspension. Think about how much the extra labor, parts, and material to make it full suspension drags down the overall quality of the bike to hit that price point. If you only have $150 to spend, and if you absolutely HAVE to buy it at Walmart, then definitely *don't buy a full suspension bike*. Just buy the nicest hardtail you can get for your money.

More features isn't always a good thing when it comes at the cost of quality.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

Before you go out and buy your bike, keep in mind the accessories you'll have to buy. You're going to need a multi-tool, mini pump, water bottle/hydropack, chain lube, etc etc and all that can easily add up to and over a hundred bucks.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

I duno why people immediately down the walmart bikes. Not everybody really NEEDS an expensive 500 bike. I would think It depends on the riding conditions. If someone is looking to spend some time with the family and ride up and down the road or around the neighborhood, or even down a short hardpack trail for 30 minutes or an hour tops, I don't think they have to spend 500 dollars on a bike Let's say you want the fam to spend some time together and go for one of those 30 min rideson an occasional Sunday. Ya gotta buy you, your wife, and the 2 kids a bike. that's 2 thousand bucks for a half hour-hour ride in the park.  

If your hitting the outdoor trails, long 4 hour rides from home, XS, DH or whatever, of course you're going to need a better bike. 

I'm still pretty new, so I can't say for sure, but I duno. I just can't see somebody spending 500 on a bike just to ride to the park. 

I do understand they are built cheap and in most cases you should get a better bike, but what if it's somethign that will just sit in the garage all week and only brought out an occasional Sunday? 

But I'm just rambling lol In any case, yes I agree that a $500 hardtail is better than a $500 FS. As is a $2k HT is better than a $2k FS and a $150 HT is better than a $150 FS.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

This is a MOUNTAIN bikw site. So when someone talks about buying a bike, we assume it will be used for MOUNTAIN biking, not tooling around a bike path with the family.


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## S_Trek (May 3, 2010)

Refer to the stickies at the top^ before buying your next bike.


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## great_big_abyss (Apr 4, 2006)

No *reputable* bike company that I know of makes a $500 FS. You can find many a decent hardtail for that price though. Most manufacturers have some sort of entry level mountain bike for less than 5 - $600. Examples are:

GT Aggressor $379 CAD - you can get the Outpost Disc for a couple hundred extra dollars
Miele Monza II - 349.95 - Miele is the budget subsidiary of Rocky Mountain

Other examples of manufacturers that would offer decent, valued laden bikes in the $400 - $500 price range are Trek, Giant, Specialized, etc. Any budget hardtail from a reputable bike company will be miles ahead of a comparably priced Wally-Mart special.

If you really want to get into a full suspension bike, the least you should be spending is $1000. And even then, you'll be getting a relatively heavy, sloppy-ish bike.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

bad mechanic said:


> ... when someone talks about buying a bike, we assume it will be used for MOUNTAIN biking, not tooling around a bike path with the family.


Hmm. You may have a good point. Given some thought, most people probably wouldn't bother coming into a forum for advice if they weren't serious about it. I imagine some people would though. If they had a bike and couldn't get it setup, I could see them coming in here for help. But somebody looking to buy a new bike has obviously given it some thought in advance. But even still, some people do have a pretty tight budget and can only afford $150. Cheapest entry level hardtail I could find was about $260ish on BD. Can you even get a good hardtail for $150?


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## great_big_abyss (Apr 4, 2006)

Many years ago I took part in an online argument on Pinkbike. I argued that it's better to have a kid riding trails on a $150 bike that he can afford, than NOT riding on a $500 bike that he can't afford. I still maintain that opinion.

What I can't condone, however, is spending $150 on a crappy bike, then spending another $300 'upgrading' what is essentially a very bad frame. Better to just save the money and buy a 'real' bike right from the start.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

You've got a good point too! Better a cheap bike than a no bike!


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## Zero260 (Aug 31, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> This is a MOUNTAIN bikw site. So when someone talks about buying a bike, we assume it will be used for MOUNTAIN biking, not tooling around a bike path with the family.


Well said


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## OperatorBo (Mar 20, 2011)

If you are looking to spend $500-$600, I agree, get a hard tail. But, please go to your local bike store even if you have to drive 2 hours to get to one. They will allways have a better bike in that price range. i just bought a specialized rockhopper 29er single speed with hydrolic discs for $699. plus, they may have alast years model that they will be willing to cut a great deal on. you dont have to spends thousands on a bike to get a good one, but dont think you cant get a brand name for a good deal. you can never go wrong with Specialized, Giant, Cannondale or Trek. Looking at a mens Giant for my son, its a hard tail, but has a quality fork and componants for $350ish. plus you cant beat the the brand name companies warrentees. Just my 2 cents. Good luck!


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

Yes, I understand this. Why is a full sus bad? Why can everyone say its **** but noboday give me a reason? How many bike mechanics are in this forum?


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

Also, I have roughly 400-600 I am able to spend. I have looked at some of the Specialized in my local shop (like the Rockhopper). Any suggestions? A Specialized from a local shop or some Windsor/Motobecane from BD.com?


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

gemini9 said:


> You may have a good point.


I* do* have a good point.



gemini9 said:


> Can you even get a good hardtail for $150?


A new one? No. But it'll be better than a $150 full suspension bike.


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## roadie scum (Jan 21, 2011)

Lochcelious said:


> Yes, I understand this. Why is a full sus bad? Why can everyone say its **** but noboday give me a reason? How many bike mechanics are in this forum?


One reason is that a good rear shock can easily cost $300.00, so you can see that does not leave room for the rest of the components that make up your average bike. Now we can add a decent fork................................................


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

So is there anyway to add some sort of suspension to the rear of a hardtail (or is that what you mean by adding a decent fork)?


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## Nadric (Apr 12, 2011)

Lochcelious said:


> So is there anyway to add some sort of suspension to the rear of a hardtail (or is that what you mean by adding a decent fork)?


There are seatposts that have suspension. But really, what is the obsession with going full squish? Unless you're doing some serious DH riding, it's not necessary in the least. I know I personally prefer hardtails, and many others would say the same.

Full Suspension != better


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

My main worry I suppose is breaking axles. Seems like without full sus that might be happening a lot. Since everyone here wants me to buy a HT, what HT should I go for/what HT's are good?


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## great_big_abyss (Apr 4, 2006)

Lochcelious said:


> Yes, I understand this. Why is a full sus bad? Why can everyone say its **** but noboday give me a reason? How many bike mechanics are in this forum?


In a nutshell:

Good quality full suspension bikes are the best rides that money can buy, and are unmatched by their hardtail brothers. The problem is that a lot of R&D, material and labour go into building a full suspension bike. All that costs money. In order to reduce weight, exotic materials (carbon, for example) are incorporated into the frame. Monthes and monthes of design and testing go into developing the actual geometry itself, and is often an evolution of older, proven designs. Complex frame shapes are difficult to make and are often hydroformed. Pieces such as swing arms are machined out of blocks of solid aluminum. For an example of an exemplary full suspension bike, visitThe Ellsworth Website.

The minimum that _I_ would personally think about spending on a full suspension bike is 2G. You can get them for as low as $1000, but at that price point you'll be riding geometry that is a few years old. It will be heavy, handle sloppily and pedal inefficiently -- in comparison to the newer designs.

As for sub $1000 full suspension bikes, avoid them. They've had almost no research put into them, no thought about pedaling efficiency, or preventing brake jack. They will be extraordinarily heavy. The actual suspension itself will be a cheap coil unit with no adjustment for rebound, damping, or sag.


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## OperatorBo (Mar 20, 2011)

no one said full suspension is bad. but, you cant get a decent "NEW" full suspension bike for $400-$600. the difference is a bike with a little spring that gives the percepsion of a full suspension bike, or a bike with a fully tuned, air dampened shock. the latter will cost more $$$. also, if you buy a decent hardtail, with a "NAME" behind it, it will be easier to sell, and for more money. then you can upgrade to better bike in a year or so. if you want a cheap no-name bike, but has Full-suspension, it wont matter. you still wont be able to get anything out of it. not trying to tell you what to do, just trying to help a little. thats all.


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## Nadric (Apr 12, 2011)

Lochcelious said:


> My main worry I suppose is breaking axles. Seems like without full sus that might be happening a lot. Since everyone here wants me to buy a HT, what HT should I go for/what HT's are good?


GT Avalanche 3.0: http://www.gtbicycles.com/bikes/mountain/endurance/2011-avalanche-3-0-disc-satin-black

KHS Alite 350: http://www.khsbicycles.com/04_alite_350_11.htm

Kona Fire Mountain: http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=fire_mountain

Kona Lanai: http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=lanai

And on and on. Every maker has solid, introductory HT bikes in that price range.


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

Sure, and I appreciate the help. I just would now like some info on a good HT. I heard the Rockhopper is good....


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## great_big_abyss (Apr 4, 2006)

Nadric said:


> There are seatposts that have suspension. But really, what is the obsession with going full squish? Unless you're doing some serious DH riding, it's not necessary in the least. I know I personally prefer hardtails, and many others would say the same.
> 
> Full Suspension != better


It might not be necessary, but it is better. These days, a *quality* full suspension bike is better in most respects than a hardtail. The weight penalty has been almost eliminated, there is technology in play (whether it is incorporated into the geometry (Giant's Maestro) or the shock itself (Fox's Pro-Pedal) to eliminate pedaling inefficiencies and 'bouncing', and brake jack has been all but eliminated.

Compared to a hard tail, you'll be able to ride longer, ride faster, and ride with more control. Even climbing, long the revered mistress of the unconquerable hardtail, is falling under the spell of the full suspension bike.

There are purists out there (myself included) who will tell you that a full suspension is completely unnecessary. Heck, I even regularly ride downhill in the Rockies on my burly hardtail. But I'm also the kind of guy who owns a rigid singlespeed and uses it as an All-Mountain bike. For most people, the advantages of going full suspension are undeniable.

BUT - AND IT'S A BIG BUT in order to get all of the aforementioned benefits, you have to be willing to shell out some pretty serious moolah. Minimum 2G's for a semi-decent full suspension bike. Go for the tricked out super-lightweight full suspension bike, and you can spend upwards of $10 000.

Where a hardtail comes into its own is value for money, and specific disciplines of mountain biking. Dirt Jumping or trials, for example. OR, people like me who swear that a full suspension bike will never meet the absolute efficiency or lightness of a hardtail. But mostly it's just price. You can get a great hardtail for $1000.


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## OperatorBo (Mar 20, 2011)

I love my Rockhopper! any of them are good, Quality Bikes. Mine is a 29er single speed. The do come geared and with 26 inch wheel too. dont worry about durability, I am 6'1" and weight $260 and the bike takes everthing i can give it! go to your LBS, and ride one around. Look at Giant and Kona also. good luck!


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## Nadric (Apr 12, 2011)

great_big_abyss said:


> BUT - AND IT'S A BIG BUT in order to get all of the aforementioned benefits, you have to be willing to shell out some pretty serious moolah. Minimum 2G's for a semi-decent full suspension bike. Go for the tricked out super-lightweight full suspension bike, and you can spend upwards of $10 000.


This is kinda what I was getting at. A *lot* of people new to the sport see a full suspension bike and automatically assume it's better than any hardtail. Not even close. I'll take an $800 HT over a $1600 FS any day of the week.


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

So I guess I should go to my LBS and try some. there are some Fujis as well....and I also have heard they are good. So I will go to my LBS and look to buy a Specialized, Kona or Giant (at least thats what it is appearing to come down to).


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## great_big_abyss (Apr 4, 2006)

Lochcelious said:


> So I guess I should go to my LBS and try some. there are some Fujis as well....and I also have heard they are good. So I will go to my LBS and look to buy a Specialized, Kona or Giant (at least thats what it is appearing to come down to).


There we go.


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## Nadric (Apr 12, 2011)

Lochcelious said:


> So I guess I should go to my LBS and try some. there are some Fujis as well....and I also have heard they are good. So I will go to my LBS and look to buy a Specialized, Kona or Giant (at least thats what it is appearing to come down to).


If they still have some of last years (or even 09s) bikes in stock, take a look at them. You'll be able to get much more for your money simply because they aren't 2011s.

Some LBSs will have used bikes, or even shop customs as well. It's a good idea to at least look over the component groups for SRAM and Shimano so you have atleast somewhat of an idea of what you're looking at. (I didn't my first time, and the salesmen might as well have been speaking latin to me)


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## S_Trek (May 3, 2010)

OP
I wish you had a issue of Mountain Biking magazine from several months ago. One topic was about cost/purchases. For HTs the prices for recommend purchased price started at about $500.00 & FS started around $1200.00 , That being said you get more bike with a $1200.00 hard tail than with a $1200.00 FS due to components


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

Ok thanks. Which is better btw, Shimano or Sram? (both appear to be good, although I was under the impression that SRAM is actually more professional...)


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## great_big_abyss (Apr 4, 2006)

Neither is 'better'. Think of it as an 'apple vs pc' argument.

The only reason I would like SRAM better (but I don't because I don't ride with gears) is that it has a 2:1 ratio, vs Shimano's 1:1 ratio. Basically it means that SRAM is a little easier to shift into larger gears.


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## nachomc (Apr 26, 2006)

I prefer the SRAM shifters to Shimano, but my experience with both goes back to 2008/9 models or so.


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

Oh ok. I'm a PC guy so which one represents PC? Haha I'm kidding.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Lochcelious said:


> ...so which one represents PC?


Shimano.


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## Cobra8d (Aug 3, 2010)

great_big_abyss said:


> Neither is 'better'. Think of it as an 'apple vs pc' argument.
> 
> The only reason I would like *SRAM better (but I don't because I don't ride with gears) is that it has a 2:1 ratio, vs Shimano's 1:1 ratio*. Basically it means that SRAM is a little easier to shift into larger gears.


Its the other way around, SRAM is 1:1 on rear derailleurs


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## great_big_abyss (Apr 4, 2006)

Cobra8d said:


> Its the other way around, SRAM is 1:1 on rear derailleurs


Oops, my bad. I always screw that up. Oh well, the end result (easier to shift) is the same.

I just realized I was talking to a customer yesterday who asked me about SRAM vs. Shimano, and I mixed up the 2:1 - 1:1 thing there, too.

You can't blame me...I'm a singlespeed rider.


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

Easier to shift with SRAM...gotcha. Thanks all. Wish me luck (though obviously irrelevant in our Universe) as I go to purchase a new bike within the Next few hours. Get it? Next? That crappy Wally brand? Yeah, I didn't find it very funny either. I feel welcomed to this site though and I thank all of you for that and thank you all for your advice, expertise and ultimately, your experience in it all. I will post pictures as soon as I can today and I hope to talk to you all more often!


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

I'm curious why people didn't push me to buy a Fuji (or at least include it with the other names) I bought a Giant. Damn do I feel proud to own it. This is the one I purchased: http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/talon.29er/7377/44105/ however, the white is actually black on mine, the blue is actually red (I'll post pics as soon as I have it all fixed up with my other equipment later today). Thanks again all! it is SO light! The brakes are a charm. It just feels so.....giant...ok that was dumb I admit but I couldn't resist.


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

Lochcelious said:


> I'm curious why people didn't push me to buy a Fuji (or at least include it with the other names) I bought a Giant. Damn do I feel proud to own it. This is the one I purchased: http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/talon.29er/7377/44105/ however, the white is actually black on mine, the blue is actually red (I'll post pics as soon as I have it all fixed up with my other equipment later today). Thanks again all! it is SO light! The brakes are a charm. It just feels so.....giant...ok that was dumb I admit but I couldn't resist.


Fuji are great bikes. In the city where I live not many shops sell them. Gaints are everywhere thats why they get suggested a lot.


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

Yeah there was a Fuji-biased shop (I swear there were no other brands in there) but I went with the Giant Talon 29er. Worth it. Wow what a bike. And I've not even done anything with it yet. Sad this is the second pedal we just can NOT get off. swapped the left one just fine. We've damn near stripped the other one but I decided we'll just take it back to the bike shop tomorrow and have the bike mechanic properly take it off and replace it for us.


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

Great choice. Straight in to the dark Side of 29ers too  

You do know pedals are left and right hand thread. So if you get it wrong instead of undoing a pedal you are tightening it.


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## XCSKIBUM (Mar 15, 2010)

Lochcelious said:


> So I guess I should go to my LBS and try some. there are some Fujis as well....and I also have heard they are good. So I will go to my LBS and look to buy a Specialized, Kona or Giant (at least thats what it is appearing to come down to).





mitzikatzi said:


> Fuji are great bikes. In the city where I live not many shops sell them. Gaints are everywhere thats why they get suggested a lot.


Fuji uses a 4 bar Horst link rear suspension that is licensed from Specialized.

It is not the lastest & greatest technology but it is effiecient W/a good rear shock & soaks up the bumps well.

This MTBR obsession over having the latest (most expensive) bicycle technology reminds me of how the archery companies sucker compound bow users into buying a new $1000+ bow every year because it shoots 20 fps faster than last year's bow.

If you are not riding in competition, the "old" technology can serve you well. Who cares if the bike weighs 5# more if you are not in a race?

I rode 7 1/2 miles on an abondoned RR bed a few days ago. It has been converted to a truck trail & has a washboard effect. Since it was part of a 60 mile loop that was mostly tarmac I rode my Crosstrail Sport hardtail hybrid. When you are grinding out the miles on nearly level grades over washboard, or worse, tree roots, a hardtail SUCKS!

If you want a full suspension bike expect to pay about $1000 to $1300 for a good 4 bar Horst link suspension Fuji W/a good rear shock like a Fox RP23 or similar. A LBS near me has loads of em in that price range.

I put 3,400 trouble free, comfotable miles on a cheap Cadillac faux bar last year. I paid $380 for it but spent $500 more for a good fork & RP23 shock so i ended up W/$1000 in it. It weighs 35#, pedals/climbs great, rides like a "cadillac" over rough terrain & I sure wish I had taken it on that 60 mile loop instead of the hardtail.


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

Sorry all, posted the wrong bike. THIS is the bike: http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/talon.29er.2/7377/44106/


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

Well, I already purchased the hardtail...but no matter, it will be a great starting point until many years from now when I purchase a good full sus frame sometime in the far ( I hope) future


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## Lochcelious (Apr 26, 2011)

God I'm LOVING the 29's...so this is what the dark side feels like....


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## wallyrider (Jun 21, 2011)

Not all bike are what they seem. Didnt have the green to get a quality frame so went with a genv2100, even with my 240lbs it hasnt failed yet.


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## vbx (Jun 20, 2010)

I just purchased a V2100 and so far so good. 

It's a great bike for most civilians. Of course, people on this forum are more of an enthusiast so of course they're going to talk smack about the wally bikes.

Just like when you go to a PC forum and they talk smack about people who purchase HP computers instead of building their own. 

LOL, who cares. Not everyone wants to do tricks or build a stupid computer that is good at crunching numbers and playing games with the most FPS. "look at my computer benchmark scores it kicks butt". Yeah. Cool story bro. 

Most people don't give a **** about that.


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## cbrenthus (Jun 9, 2009)

I came across this thread when researching this bike. I thought I would throw my $.02 with a different reason for buying a cheap dep store bike: It might get stolen  What I mean is, I am going to buy this bike for trailering my kayak, and it will be locked up for hours at a time. I really don't want to do that with anything more expensive then this bike, in fact, I'd rather be at $100, but don't mind the extra $50. 

Also, I do have an Electra rat fink, and appreciate the difference in quality between LBS bikes and big box bikes. And, I would rather buy from my LBS, but they just don't have anything cheap enough for me to feel comfortable leaving it for hours. 

And, I am planning on buying a $1-$3K FS in the next year, if possible. I really like the specialized Stumpjumper FS.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

Wow. I remember this thread.


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