# Gloworm X2 v3 ( XM-L2) Who's In?



## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

FYI: Action LED now has the new *Version 3 edition of the Gloworm X2 *on their website. I'm in..:thumbsup: Can't wait to get my hands on the little gem. My expectations are very high. I sure hope the Gloworm people don't let me down. These aren't inexpensive.

I have a question for Jim ( Action LED ) or anyone else who might know: I ordered the lamp head only. I thought I remember reading somewhere ( on MTBR ) that the new units were going to include the new ( solid alloy ) quick release/cam lock bar mounts. I know I'm getting a mount but not sure if it's the same O-ring mount or cam lock type mount? :skep:


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## Gloworm Manufacture (Nov 29, 2011)

Hey Cat, what you probably saw was our display at Interbike. We used the QR mount for the show however the X2 will be delivered with the standard o-ring mount. The XS comes standard with the QR mount.

Cheers!

Bruce
Gloworm NZ


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## pucked up (Mar 22, 2006)

I would be on this like white on rice, but building a carbon frame 650B HT bike from the ground up so I'll have to hold off for now.

Can't wait for your review when it arrives.


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## Gharddog03 (Sep 25, 2013)

It looks like its going to sell like hotcakes.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Here's the mount Cat
Action-LED-Lights ? Gloworm Quick Release Mount

$180 for the light head only. Not cheap.
Here's the product link
Action-LED-Lights ? GLOWORM X2 v3 1500 lumen Bike Light

I just ordered something from action led yesterday. I ordered at around 2:15 and by 4:30 it was already shipped! You can't get better than that.


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## pigmode (Nov 15, 2009)

Anyone think the X1 V1 is a better value than the X1 V2? I plan to eventually get a V2 V3 as well.


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## Brooks04 (Jun 1, 2004)

I am weak - I just purchased both the X2 v3 and the X1 v2 - light heads only, plus the quick release mount for the X2. I have the X2 v2 and have been very pleased with it. I think these lights are reasonably priced based on the beam quality, small size, weight, mounting options and overall quality.


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## blantonator (May 6, 2007)

how does the new X2 compare to the Gemini Olympia?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Gloworm Manufacture said:


> Hey Cat, what you probably saw was our display at Interbike. We used the QR mount for the show however the X2 will be delivered with the standard o-ring mount. The XS comes standard with the QR mount.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> ...


Doah!







 Actually, the standard O-ring mount works fine.

Bruce, I'm a little confused about what optics are coming with the X2. Can you shed a little light on this issue? If the standard set up is one flood, one spot...how long before we can order another optic of our choice? I use a spot, spot in my current set-up and thought I might like to continue with that arrangement. Still I look forward to seeing how well the new optic system you have works. Could be I might be completely happy with whatever comes out of the box. My friend above though, is much harder to please.


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## derekbob (May 4, 2005)

Just bought a x2 v3 for a new helmet light.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

*It's Here!: Initial observations*

Whoa Nelly! Got this thing fast! No one's going to accuse Jim at Action LED of being slow to ship! :cornut:

Strange as it is I was not impressed when I first turned it on. This goes to show how initial impressions can be totally off base when you are just using your eyes ( inside a house ). Now please continue reading....

After shining the lamp around in my home a bit I pulled my other X2 (U2, spot-flood ) off my bike to compare the two. At first I shook my head because I couldn't tell much difference. To get a more accurate read out I put up the lux meter ( ~4-5 meters distance ) to get a lux 
measurement....Holy Smokes!...New version X2 is getting another 200 lux! :yikes:

Compared to my U2 version this is about a 42% increase in output Out the Front ( OTF ) when in it's highest mode. Keep in mind this is lux not lumen. The lux meter is measuring the intensity at the most brightest point of the beam pattern. This explains why I couldn't tell much difference inside the house. Most of the extra output is going to be "forward throwing". For the human eye to see the difference you need DISTANCE to get the full effect. Not gonna happen inside the house.

Well, it looks like the Gloworm people have worked some voodoo magic here. With the higher bin XM-L2's and newer refined optics this lamp should totally rock once it hits the trails. ( lamp comes standard with one flood and one spot optic )

Can't wait to see what the added output looks like on the trails. Unfortunately in my case that's not going to happen anytime soon. Where I live we've entered what I like to call "The Fall Mini-Monsoon" season. It's been raining constantly for about three days and looks like it might continue for at least another couple days. Trails will not be ride worthy anytime soon.:sad:

On a brighter note the new mode menu set-up is a real winner. Changing between the two factory programs is a breeze. One push starts the Trail Programme or two quick pushes starts the Commuter Programme, it's as simple as that. Customizing each of the light levels is relatively simple once you get the hang of it. I've already customized the "Commuter Programme" to be more of a "Race Programme". On the other "Trail Programme" I'm going to dim the mid-level down just a notch or two and then I'll be set. :thumbsup:

Now all I need is for the rain to stop and for the trails to dry up a bit so I can enjoy my new toys. ( *Sigh* ) The "Race people" are going to love these. With the increased efficiency of the optic/LED set-up I have no doubt that when used on the lower outputs there is going to be a very noticeable difference in the run time of whatever battery set-up you choose to use. Added run time is always a nice thing to have.

( *Note: to whom it may concern. I have no official proprietary relationship with Gloworm or the people who sell their products. I bought the lamp from Action LED at the listed price with my own money. )


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## Gharddog03 (Sep 25, 2013)

The new gloworm looks sweet but i couldn't justify the cost when two 2013 olympia's cost less than one V3. Can't wait for a good review on the v3. Maybe I'll pull the trigger in a few months.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Gharddog03 said:


> The new gloworm looks sweet but i couldn't justify the cost when two 2013 olympia's cost less than one V3. Can't wait for a good review on the v3. Maybe I'll pull the trigger in a few months.


Well....sounds like a good deal. May I ask who the seller was?


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## Gharddog03 (Sep 25, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> Well....sounds like a good deal. May I ask who the seller was?


Same. Action. Only place I deal with.:thumbsup:


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## derekbob (May 4, 2005)

Gharddog03 said:


> The new gloworm looks sweet but i couldn't justify the cost when two 2013 olympia's cost less than one V3. Can't wait for a good review on the v3. Maybe I'll pull the trigger in a few months.


I just bought 2x 2013 Olympias for the bar to pair with a v3 on the helmet. I'm selling my t6 xera and olympia to my riding buddy and this closeout sale are helping to justify the expense. There are some AWESOME deals at ACTION LED right now. Use the code CLOSEOUT13 for an extra 10% off already discounted 2013 gloworm and gemini stuff.


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## Gharddog03 (Sep 25, 2013)

derekbob said:


> I just bought 2x 2013 Olympias for the bar to pair with a v3 on the helmet. I'm selling my t6 xera and olympia to my riding buddy and this closeout sale are helping to justify the expense. There are some AWESOME deals at ACTION LED right now. Use the code CLOSEOUT13 for an extra 10% off already discounted 2013 gloworm and gemini stuff.


Indeed. You have a killer set up. I'm going to run 2 Olympia's and one duo.


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

Gharddog03 said:


> The new gloworm looks sweet but i couldn't justify the cost when two 2013 olympia's cost less than one V3. Can't wait for a good review on the v3. Maybe I'll pull the trigger in a few months.


That was a good deal. Unfortunately the price on the light head was a typo. I'll honor the price the lucky few got but there a little more now. The sets came down a little.


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## derekbob (May 4, 2005)

Gharddog03 said:


> Indeed. You have a killer set up. I'm going to run 2 Olympia's and one duo.


Thanks, you have a sweet setup as well. Your lumens/dollar ratio is great especially considering you're getting gemini quality and programming options.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

*Minor problem with new X-2*

TonightI decided to try to take the new X2 out on the paved trails behind my home. While setting up the lamp I ran into a couple problems. *It seems the new remote wire is about an inch shorter than the previous editions.* Depending on your handlebar length ( mine are quite long ) this could be a major issue. I find I now have to use the provided Velcro block ( with sticky on back ) rather than the previous strip of Velcro I was using. Unfortunately since the bars are round ( and the back of the remote isn't ) this results in a rather unstable platform to mount the remote.

Since the wire is too short I'm going to have to mount the remote just under my Rapidfire shifter display. That means I'm going to have to stretch my thumb a bit further if I need to change modes. If I can't deal with this I'll have to return the light. I complained years ago that the previous editions were just barely long enough. I'm not happy that they decided to shorten the wire. With my hand on the brake lever my thumb now BARELY reaches the button. Jeez, makes no sense to me to scrimp on 3 cm worth of wire. Total buzz kill.


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## Gharddog03 (Sep 25, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> TonightI decided to try to take the new X2 out on the paved trails behind my home. While setting up the lamp I ran into a couple problems. *It seems the new remote wire is about an inch shorter than the previous editions.* Depending on your handlebar length ( mine are quite long ) this could be a major issue. I find I now have to use the provided Velcro block ( with sticky on back ) rather than the previous strip of Velcro I was using. Unfortunately since the bars are round ( and the back of the remote isn't ) this results in a rather unstable platform to mount the remote.
> 
> Since the wire is too short I'm going to have to mount the remote just under my Rapidfire shifter display. That means I'm going to have to stretch my thumb a bit further if I need to change modes. If I can't deal with this I'll have to return the light. I complained years ago that the previous editions were just barely long enough. I'm not happy that they decided to shorten the wire. With my hand on the brake lever my thumb now BARELY reaches the button. Jeez, makes no sense to me to scrimp on 3 cm worth of wire. Total buzz kill.


How was the throw/flood. Better than previous version? Any other issues other than the wire length?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Gharddog03 said:


> How was the throw/flood. Better than previous version? Any other issues other than the wire length?


I did a short ride on the paved trails behind my home. From what I can tell ( with trails still wet ) there is definitely more throw on the highest output level. That's the good part.

Now the bad part; There is a noticeable delay when pushing the button to change modes compared to the original version. I believe this is due to the new programmable menu. Not a big issue but coupled with the difficulty of trying to reach the button with the shortened wire there is a moment of doubt on whether or not you have successfully engaged the button ( about a 0.5 sec delay ). This delay also effects how you turn the lamp on when first turned on. Once again not a big issue but certainly noticeable. Occasionally when you try to turn the lamp on ( with one push ) nothing happens and you have to try again. Not unusual for it to take 2-3 tries to get the lamp to turn on.

I am seriously considering returning the lamp. While I like the extra output I'm not sure I can accept the operational limitations of the button assembly and the UI. When I press a button I need to see something happen, FAST. This is even more important when you have your hand stretched out trying to hit a small button as you navigate over rough terrain. I figure if I return the lamp perhaps they will correct the shortened remote wire with the later productions. We will see.

( *Note; I own three previous versions of the Gloworm X2. All of those versions had no operational issues.

Would be super nice if the Gloworm people would offer to provide a replacement lamp with a longer wire.


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## Gharddog03 (Sep 25, 2013)

Thank you Cat.


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## Gloworm Manufacture (Nov 29, 2011)

Cat, thanks for the feedback.

Will definitely look into the length of the switch as this should not have changed from the first version to now.

Regarding the UI, when the button is pressed the light will change momentarily after the button is pressed. This was tested when we were prototyped the product with a few riders and they did not find it an issue, however they had not been able to compare it to previous versions. Everyone is different I guess?

In reference to the starting sequence, to access the first default programme hold the button for a couple seconds then release. To start in the second, double click.

We are constantly assessing our changes to develop the best product we can.

Any feedback is great regarding the UI and functionality and as you know we take it seriously and make adjustments accordingly.

Cheers

Bruce 
Gloworm NZ 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

Cat, I pull a V2 and V3 and compared the wire length to the button and they were identical.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Gloworm Manufacture said:


> Cat, thanks for the feedback.
> 
> Will definitely look into the length of the switch as this should not have changed from the first version to now.
> 
> ...


When I am standing next to the bike and working the button I don't seem to have so much of an issue with failed pushes. On the bike is a different matter as I am try to push the button (now) at a much harder angle. I think what is happening is that the button is now mounted directly to the handlebar and the handlebar is curved more than where I use to have it. When I push the button it rocks slightly. This could be the real problem. Once again, likely the issue is exacerbated by me trying to contact the button at a less than straight down angle. I might be able to firm up the mounting but I'm still going to have to really do a "stretch" with my thumb to try to hit the button when on the bike.

Perhaps I just got one with a shorter wire. Things like this happen. Mine has a wire that is about 173mm long ( measured from where it exits the lamp to where it enters the button...not including the button ). My previous editions are about 203mm long. Like I said before, even those I could have wished for another cm or two.

This isn't a problem on my bikes with shorter handle-bars. Both my ( flat-bar ) road set-up and my older cross-country mtn bike have no issue. The bike I ride most for mountain biking has riser bars and are much wider than standard flat handle-bars. I find the wider bars give me more control for the rough trails I sometimes ride.. These bars were standard equipment when I bought the bike.

I need about another 3-4cm on the new version to be able to mount the button where I mounted the others. With the previous editions I could mount the button right over the spot where my shifter levers are. As such I never had a problem making a mode change while on the fly. Now it looks like that is going to change and that is something I don't think I will like.


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

I got the X2 V3 about a week ago and so far it's been great, I really like the size of the led housing. 

However, I could have bought about 5 China lights for the same price with double the amount of leds. What's the most cost effective in the long run I'm not sure about yet.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

*Update on wire length issue and Powering on issue*

I got playing around with the wire and stretched it slightly by warming and rubbing it gently. I think I managed to get a couple more mm out of it. Not much more but it was enough to get the button to center on my Rapidfire clamp. 
Now as long as it stays in place there I think I might be fine.

The "powering on' issue still exist. I tried practicing with it for almost half an hour. The good news is I always get it to come on ( although it might take a couple tries ). Once on it works flawlessly. No problems changing modes or turning off. As I mentioned before there is small delay when changing modes but the more I play with it the less important that issue seems. Now that the button is more in reach it works better. ( **See Below )

Tomorrow when I get off work I might try another ride so I can check out how the new position is going to work. Hopefully trails will be dryer.

(***Update*; Okay, it seems it you hold the button down for about three seconds ( and then let go ) the first programme comes on. Count to three and it seems to work most of the time. With the previous X2 you just had to press the switch and it came on.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Why not just supply Cat with a new light with a longer remote cord? Many people run wide bars, including me, and the length of the remote shouldn't be a limiting factor.


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

varider said:


> Why not just supply Cat with a new light with a longer remote cord? Many people run wide bars, including me, and the length of the remote shouldn't be a limiting factor.


Perhaps a little longer would be ok but having extra wire can be a pain if you don't need it. 
I might consider a customization service to make the switch wire length what ever you want it. Recumbent's sometimes want to put the light by their feet. Double heat-shrink splices to keep them well sealed. Maybe $10?? If anyone is interested I'll look for some appropriate wire.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Action LED Lights said:


> Perhaps a little longer would be ok but having extra wire can be a pain if you don't need it.


Easy enough to put a turn of wire around the bars to use extra length.


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## canuckjgc (Jun 22, 2007)

I'm missing the point of this thread. What is so spectacular about this light, which is more expensive than a Dinotte (made in USA) 1500 lumen light?


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## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

canuckjgc said:


> I'm missing the point of this thread. What is so spectacular about this light, which is more expensive than a Dinotte (made in USA) 1500 lumen light?


Descendants of Gandalf made it.


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## derekbob (May 4, 2005)

canuckjgc said:


> I'm missing the point of this thread. What is so spectacular about this light, which is more expensive than a Dinotte (made in USA) 1500 lumen light?


For one the Gloworm people have made themselves available in this forum. They developed a light and asked for our input and it seems some of it made it into the final product.

This light is expensive but its a nice, well thought out package that is very powerful and versatile. It's mounting options are the best IMO. It's one of the few mtb lights that can be used for hiking and camping w/o being too bright and large.

Gloworm also beat everyone except MagicShine to the market with the XML2.

TBH I'm not even familiar with what Dionette has at the same price point. One thing I don't like about Dionette is the battery connector. I go Dionette and all of my batteries are useless.


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## Gharddog03 (Sep 25, 2013)

derekbob said:


> One thing I don't like about Dionette is the battery connector. I go Dionette and all of my batteries are useless.


Agreed. Hear nothing but good things about dinotte but the battery connector is a deal breaker for me. But the dinotte 3xml and 400 daytime look sweet.


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## canuckjgc (Jun 22, 2007)

For a light made in China, it is very expensive indeed.


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## TCW (Mar 13, 2006)

A lot of folks, like me, have Magicshine-style battery packs that work with various light heads. I will only buy lights that interface with those battery packs. If Dinotte used that connector and sold the light head separately, I'd likely pick up an XML-3. It is a good value.


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## TCW (Mar 13, 2006)

Just read a review that mentioned one can buy the XML-3 light head separately. Nice.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

TCW said:


> A lot of folks, like me, have Magicshine-style battery packs that work with various light heads. I will only buy lights that interface with those battery packs. If Dinotte used that connector and sold the light head separately, I'd likely pick up an XML-3. It is a good value.


Yup, I'm in the same boat. Since a majority of the lights use 2S (2 in series) battery packs, I don't see any reason to have different connectors.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

canuckjgc said:


> I'm missing the point of this thread. What is so spectacular about this light, which is more expensive than a Dinotte (made in USA) 1500 lumen light?


The Point? The point is this is just a new product review. There are more expensive lights, lights about the same price and of course less expensive lights that are cheaper. The Gloworm attracts a lot of attention because it is at a medium price point and offers features not offered by very many light systems. Sadly they are not under $200 anymore but likely the price will drop as we approach Christmas.

Ii is up to the reader to decide what kind of lamp he/she wishes to buy and what features they want in a lamp to mount to their bike or helmet.

I've been using the Gloworm lights since their inception ( about two years ago ). Although I review different kind of lights my personal choice for the bars continues to be a Gloworm X2. I love having a lamp with small form factor on the bars. I love the mounting options. I LOVE remotes. I love that it's brighter than most 2 x XM-L lamps. Sure you can buy something less expensive. No one will argue that fact.

Seems I now have the new version better dialed in. Jury is still out on that though. I can't wait to have a chance to try it on some dirt trails. I work nights so I have to wait till the weekend and hope the weather stays dry.


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## Brooks04 (Jun 1, 2004)

Received my X1-v2 and X2-v3 lightheads today - both appear to be excellent lights. I have owned all three of the X2 versions and have been pleased. The X1 really blows me away at how small this lighthead is and the throw it puts out. This has to be the closest thing to the perfect helmet light, and I have tried out plenty over the years.

It will be hard to beat the beam quality in this small of a lighthead that the X2 and X1 offer. It is not always about the lumens / brightness a light puts out, but how well it distributes the beam pattern that can really make a difference. These lights definitely standout in that category plus have excellent mounting options.


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## Gloworm Manufacture (Nov 29, 2011)

Hi All

I just thought I'd jump in here and give a bit of background into the manufacturing and development processes of Gloworm and why they are what they are.

Gloworm Performance Products Ltd, is a NZ company and can be found on the NZ company register. The directors are Bruce (NZ) and Vag (Greece). 

Each Gloworm is designed and engineered in NZ by myself (Bruce) and two contracted NZ Engineers (Mechanical/Plastics and Electronics). We only use top of the line electronic components that we source through multiple locations. 

If you open a Gloworm and compare it's 'guts' to another light that originates from China you will notice the size difference of the components. The components within a Gloworm are all very small and the circuit board is custom printed to match the housing, this small size and customisation equals electronic efficiency (All Gloworm Lights exceed 93% effciency) and higher cost. We also only use named brands for electronic parts. You will also see in the X1 we have combined the LED and other electronic components onto the same circuit board, this process requires accurate engineering and low tolerances to ensure adequate heat sinking and steady operation.

As we only produce in relatively small batches compared to larger companies (Nite Rider, Magicshine etc) and Chinese light manufacturers we do not get the price breaks that others can access. This is especially noticeable with li-ion battery prices.

We only use high quality Panasonic battery cells, which are arguably the most expensive but highest quality on the market. This is compared to lower priced cells used by most chinese light manufacturers. Using higher quality cells with an approved charger equals peace of mind when you are charging your battery pack.

The battery pack utilises a customised waterproof mold, that also includes a fuel gauge indicator - not common on most lights.

The housings are all CNC machined. The non-circular designs (X2/XS) require the use of a 3-Axis CNC machine. This process alone is time intensive and costs significantly more than a light that has been manufactured using an extrusion process or been made on a lathe.

The assembly process is completed by hand in our facility under the management of Vag (who most of you know). We source our components/parts from appx 25 different suppliers who are selected for their professional setup, management practices and of course quality of product. As the product develops we assess our suppliers and ensure we are getting the highest quality.

One of the benefits of our assembly process is our ability to react to changes in the market, technology and customer demands. An example of this is our new mount that can be used with GoPro and our prompt use of XML-2 when they became commercially available.

It must also be noted that we are using XML-2 U2 bin, where most others will be using the T6 bin due to its more frequent availability.

So as you can see a lot goes into these products and the costs are definitely not low and comparable to other lights that come out of china. Also one must remember that some of the best bikes and componentry in the world originates from the east.

Please feel free to fire back any questions you may have

Cheers

Bruce
Gloworm NZ


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Cat thanks for bringing up the Cord length issue. I'm going to measure my X2 V2 at home. I've always felt the cord was a bit short as I can't really get the remote far enough out on my bars. (I ride 750mm wide bars) This also plays into the length of the cord (after the Y split) that goes to the battery. I can just get the battery connected, and with the remote at it's farthest length - If my bars are spun far enough in one direction, it will want to pull the battery connection apart. I've always thought that's 'just the way it is' but now I question if the cord is simply too short in the first place. Without measuring I can say my setup would benefit from a slightly longer cord at both the remote and battery connector. Maybe just 10-15mm would be ideal.


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## pigmode (Nov 15, 2009)

Gharddog03 said:


> Agreed. Hear nothing but good things about dinotte but the battery connector is a deal breaker for me. But the dinotte 3xml and 400 daytime look sweet.


Has Dinotte changed their connector in the past few years? When I ran the original Magicshine and Dinotte 400R, all that needed was the shortening of the rim of the female connector with a razor knife.


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## Gharddog03 (Sep 25, 2013)

pigmode said:


> Has Dinotte changed their connector in the past few years? When I ran the original Magicshine and Dinotte 400R, all that needed was the shortening of the rim of the female connector with a razor knife.


Unpacking the DiNotte XML3 and 400R (Quick Release) - YouTube


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

*Cord issue continued*



bad andy said:


> Cat thanks for bringing up the Cord length issue. I'm going to measure my X2 V2 at home. I've always felt the cord was a bit short as I can't really get the remote far enough out on my bars. (I ride 750mm wide bars) This also plays into the length of the cord (after the Y split) that goes to the battery. I can just get the battery connected, and with the remote at it's farthest length - If my bars are spun far enough in one direction, it will want to pull the battery connection apart. I've always thought that's 'just the way it is' but now I question if the cord is simply too short in the first place. Without measuring I can say my setup would benefit from a slightly longer cord at both the remote and battery connector. Maybe just 10-15mm would be ideal.


Thanks bad andy; Glad to hear I'm not the only one who has experienced the issue. If you check the original Gloworm X2 Thread I made mention of the remote length issue at post #237 That was back in early 2012. Gloworm than responded at that time and said the length would be 19cm. Turned out when they came they were a little longer ( ~ 20cm ). I might have mentioned it again once I got the first light but since it worked "as it was" I was content. I am surprised though that the remote cord on the new 2013 edition is only a little over 17cm (not including the button ).

Jim from Action LED has contacted me about the current length issue and an offer was made to fix the problem. Since I've gotten it mounted a little closer now I might be okay with it as is. Fingers crossed.

*Now as to the Start up operation issue:* It turns out it's official, the Gloworm operating instruction manual is in error. *YOU DO NOT CLICK ONCE TO ACTIVATE THE FIRST MENU. INSTEAD YOU "PRESS AND HOLD THREE SECONDS".* This was verified to me by Jim but of course by that time I had already figured it out. ( Although it did take some time... ) Now that I know how to turn it on I get it right every time. 

In the mean time I strongly suggest to the Gloworm people that they increase the length of the remote cord to at least 22cm. before too many of these go out. In the mean time folks that don't need the extra length ( for shorter bars ) shouldn't have a problem.


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

I found some time yesterday to do the first Light Distribution test of the X2v3 and plotted it here vs the v2. It show the change to be pretty much right on with the 25% increase claimed.


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## canuckjgc (Jun 22, 2007)

Thanks for the information Bruce. You are clearly different than the typical China light, I can see why the cost is what it is now.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Cat-man-do said:


> Thanks bad andy; Glad to hear I'm not the only one who has experienced the issue. If you check the original Gloworm X2 Thread I made mention of the remote length issue at post #237 That was back in early 2012. Gloworm than responded at that time and said the length would be 19cm. Turned out when they came they were a little longer ( ~ 20cm ). I might have mentioned it again once I got the first light but since it worked "as it was" I was content. I am surprised though that the remote cord on the new 2013 edition is only a little over 17cm (not including the button ).
> 
> Jim from Action LED has contacted me about the current length issue and an offer was made to fix the problem. Since I've gotten it mounted a little closer now I might be okay with it as is. Fingers crossed.
> 
> ...


CAT, I measured my cord. From light base to far edge of switch: 8 inches = 20.32 cm 
I strongly recommend your suggestion to increase the factory length to around 22cm - it would really help those of us riding typically wide bars these days.
Can I also suggest the y-junction in the cable actually would work better if it were closer to the lighthead? When my lights are installed, it's kind of weird having the cable go from the Y-junction to the battery somewhere along the bars in between the stem and end of bars. It would be a cleaner setup, and less prone to disconnecting via edge-to-edge bar movements were it closer to the stem/lighthead.


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## androgen (Apr 28, 2005)

Cat-man-do said:


> FYI: Action LED now has the new *Version 3 edition of the Gloworm X2 *on their website. I'm in..:thumbsup: Can't wait to get my hands on the little gem. My expectations are very high. I sure hope the Gloworm people don't let me down. These aren't inexpensive.
> 
> I have a question for Jim ( Action LED ) or anyone else who might know: I ordered the lamp head only. I thought I remember reading somewhere ( on MTBR ) that the new units were going to include the new ( solid alloy ) quick release/cam lock bar mounts. I know I'm getting a mount but not sure if it's the same O-ring mount or cam lock type mount? :skep:


didn't you say i was a sad person because i don't like Chinese DX / Ebay lights ? this light isn't Chinese and you can buy four SolarStorm X2 instead of one of these ? What's wrong Cat ? are you feeling OK ?



also isn't 1500 lumens "too much" ? didn't you say you only need 200 lumens and anybody who wants more has bad night vision ?


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

So here's my .02

I've had numerous cheap Chinese lights. Probably 6 total. My buddies have them too so I'd say we have maybe 12 total. A couple have had light head issues but for the most part, they've been ok. The universal problem has been the poor batteries. All have consistently reduced in run time over a year to about 1/2. After several years they just don't work. 

This is all ok as you can buy new cheap batteries cheap, usually 20 bucks. No guarantee they will even work but most do for a while. The good w/ this system is you can keep upgrading every year to the newest LED at very cheap cost.

On the other hand, I bought the Dinotte dual XML-3 when they first came out. I've started using them the last several weeks and again, they last forever and the batteries seem to have all the run time. They are lithium so of course when it gets cold they will reduce in run time but thankfully in the Bay Area I won't have to deal w/ anything under 40 degrees F most of Winter. I always talk the Dinotte's and they never fail. Maybe that's the difference in the 2 systems. I would never go out w/o the Dinotte's. Or Lupine's if I had those, etc, etc. You get the idea.


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## androgen (Apr 28, 2005)

mb323323 said:


> So here's my .02
> 
> I've had numerous cheap Chinese lights. Probably 6 total. My buddies have them too so I'd say we have maybe 12 total. A couple have had light head issues but for the most part, they've been ok. The universal problem has been the poor batteries. All have consistently reduced in run time over a year to about 1/2. After several years they just don't work.
> 
> ...


i think it may not even be the batteries that are the problem but the charger. maybe both charger and batteries.

thanks for the post !


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

*Gloworm X2 ( XM-L2 ) (U2): Trail testing*

I took the new Gloworm X2 out tonight for a little spin. Trails were damp leaf covered and with a slight drizzle in the air. Not the ideal situation for testing a lamp but since it wasn't pouring down raining I went with it.

Fortunately I was not having any problem changing modes. I still want a longer wire but I'm good for now. I occasionally still have a problem getting the lamp to come on the first time. I guess I can't count to three all the time the same way. :lol: What can I say. Most of the time I get it right. With practice I should get better at counting to three....ya think. 

I'm also having some problems getting it into the second menu on the first try. Really not a big deal as I always get it eventually but I wish it were more intuitive. The reason i say it's not such a big deal is because the original X2's were much more harder to change menu's. The new ones are much easier in comparison. I just wish it were more "Automatic".

Well the lamp definitely puts out some light. Occasionally I would hit a small stretch of trail that was not covered by leaves and almost completely dry. When I hit those spots boy would the trail light up, even in the low mode. Definitely lights things up better than any other duel XM-L lamp I own. Need I say, I l love being able to set my own mode light levels. Both menus set to my own specifications worked like a charm.


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## androgen (Apr 28, 2005)

Cat-man-do said:


> I took the new Gloworm X2 out tonight for a little spin. Trails were damp leaf covered and with a slight drizzle in the air. Not the ideal situation for testing a lamp but since it wasn't pouring down raining I went with it.
> 
> Fortunately I was not having any problem changing modes. I still want a longer wire but I'm good for now. I occasionally still have a problem getting the lamp to come on the first time. I guess I can't count to three all the time the same way. :lol: What can I say. Most of the time I get it right. With practice I should get better at counting to three....ya think.
> 
> ...


are you saying you upgraded a 1200 lumen light to a 1500 lumen one ? what happened to your original X2 ?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

androgen said:


> are you saying you upgraded a 1200 lumen light to a 1500 lumen one ? what happened to your original X2 ?


yes, I still have it.


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## derekbob (May 4, 2005)

I have 1 ride on my x2 v3 and I love it so far. I was really impressed with the entire package. The light is awesome and all the details are spot on for my needs. I thought the UI functioned great on the stock "Trail Programme." I mounted the light to my helmet so the cord length wasn't an issue for me, but I could see how an additional 1 or 2 cm would help when mounting to the bar. I also agree that the junction which splits the power cord and the switch should be a little closer to the light head. Maybe they could offer the light with 2 different cord sizes, one for helmet mounting and weight weenies another with a slightly longer cord.

All things considered this light is awesome and it's one of my favorite new pieces of gear. Great Job Bruce and Vag. I also really like how you guys sell through Action LED, I never hesitate to spend my money there.


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## derekbob (May 4, 2005)

Here is my new setup. X2 V3 on the helmet and 2 Olympias on the bars.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

derekbob said:


> ..Here is my new setup. X2 V3 on the helmet and 2 Olympias on the bars.


Nice, more than enough light coming off the bars no doubt about that.
Since you have the X2 on the helmet I'm going to comment about that.

IMO the new version of the X2 is not going to be as "helmet friendly" as the previous version. I say that because the _new user interface_ makes turning the lamp on a bit more of a chore. When I use a helmet lamp I sometimes turn the lamp off unless I really need it for more technical riding. That said when it comes time to turn it on with the new version you will have to put one hand on the helmet, press the button and count about three seconds. THAT is not something always easy to do ( on the fly ) depending on what kind of trail you are on and what obstacles are in front of you.

When mounted on the bars it's not an issue because the remote is next to your thumb and your hands never have to leave the bars. Nope, when I use a helmet lamp I need to be able to "reach up quickly" and have the lamp turn on so I can control the bike. With the previous version it wasn't an issue. The new UI changes that.
Now if you leave the lamp "ON" but on a low level when not needed than the issue with powering on the lamp is not so much an issue.

If there was something I would change with the new version it would definitely be with the new UI and how the lamp is turned on, regardless of menu choice. I need the issue of " Turning on the lamp", to be instantaneous. One touch and it needs to come on regardless of menu choice. If that means making it harder to select which menu you want I think I'd rather deal with that than dealing with a specific turn on procedure every time I want to turn the light on. Nope, give me "one touch" turn on regardless of menu and I'm happy. Gloworm people, I hope you're listening.


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## derekbob (May 4, 2005)

The only time I turn my helmet light off is when I'm stopped. I agree, the light should come on with one click. I think the only time I'll run into the issue you bring up is when I'm initially turning the lights on as the sun goes down, I can always stop if its a problem.

I just checked and once the light is turned on then off, the light fires up into trail program with one click. I'm not sure how long it will stay like that though. I'm going to leave it off for 15 min and see what happens.

**After 15 min off time the light fired up with one click into trail program.

***After messing with it some more it appears 1 firm "press" turns it back on while a click does not.

***I'm thinking if you turned your light on and off frequently it might be a pain.


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## Gharddog03 (Sep 25, 2013)

derekbob said:


> View attachment 840708
> 
> 
> Here is my new setup. X2 V3 on the helmet and 2 Olympias on the bars.


That's a sweet set-up.


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## derekbob (May 4, 2005)

Gharddog03 said:


> That's a sweet set-up.


Thanks, I love it!

I just finished my 2nd ride with the x2 and once again it was awesome. I don't have any issues with the UI on the trail.

Here is the Strava link for anyone interested:

Bike Ride Profile | 16miles near Redding | Times and Records | Strava

Around mile 4 I saw a bear. It was big and it ran across the trail really fast. I only saw it for a second, my buddy was 20 yards behind me and he missed it. It was still light out at the time.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

derekbob said:


> ....I just checked and once the light is turned on then off, the light fires up into trail program with one click. I'm not sure how long it will stay like that though. I'm going to leave it off for 15 min and see what happens.
> 
> **After 15 min off time the light fired up with one click into trail program.
> 
> ...


Yes, yes...glad you posted this. I noticed the same thing when I was messing with it yesterday. Basically this is what I saw: When you start up in the Commuter Programme it takes two quick pushes, no problem. BUT...if you try to switch back to the Trail Programme by holding it three seconds; the Commuter Prog. comes back up! :skep: When I try it again, same thing happens. Next I tried to just use a single quick press and surprisingly THAT WORKED! Maybe when the light has been sitting for some time it needs the 3 sec start up for the Trail programme. This might be a safety feature not mentioned in the instructions.

Once the lights has been working a while a single quick press seems to bring up the trail program BUT if you don't do the single press "just right", it doesn't work. The same with the Commuter program, if you don't get the double click just right it won't come on ( or you get the Trail Programme instead ) :bluefrown:

Anyway you look at it this is not the ideal situation. I'll likely keep mine because I use it on the bars where it is not so much of an issue. When I turn mine off I'm usually stopped anyway. So turning it on is not a big deal. Still, little things like this tend to annoy me. I've been practicing with it for a while and every once in a while it might take two or three attempts to get the menu I want to come on.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

*Gloworm X2 v3: Surprisingly Brighter*

Well after talking about the bad stuff for a while now for some good news. I was screwing around with some of my other lights and decided to do some quick lux comparisons with some of my other lights. First up was the Quad XM-L (T-6) lamp that I got from D/X. Previously I thought this was one of my brighter lamps. Well, short story shorter, the X2 v3 beats it hands down. No question about it. Next I tried my Chinese Tri-clone; Nope, not even close. The new X2 is shooting um' down like tin ducks in a shooting gallery

Still, this was just an impromptu lux test. No way to compare the total lumen output of each of the lamps but if the lux read-out is any indication the new X2 is rocking the Chinese boat some kind'a hard. ( comparison done at about 1.5 meter )


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

I don't have quad-XML one, but all my 3*LED, 5*LED and 7*LED lights were significantly underpowered in the default state - so, it's really fine for X2 not to follow that "tradition". Most of ordinary users aren't going to mod the lights anyway, so having ready-to-use model is quite handy for them.

As for measurement, de-facto "standard" is to do it at 1 meter distance. To compare overall light distribution with luxmeter only, I use my "homemade" method of several measurements at different angle from the axis: it gives relatively useful information about beam's brightness...










Absolute values (Lux):









Relative to the center of beam (%):


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## marmoset (May 1, 2007)

I'm about to get back into the regular night riding game and it looks as though the X2 V3 is my favourite so far. 

It's reassuring to read Bruce's comments about the quality of the components going into the lights, after all those tempting $50 chinese lights have passed before my eyes on the web, I just kept thinking I'd be out of light in the middle of nowhere or looking for a replacement battery before you know it.

I had a lupine nightmare that lasted for 6 years before the battery died and foolishly replaced it with a Nukeproof reactor which hasn't really given me much service life before battery death, nor was the beam pattern as good.

My Dinnote 200L helmet light has served me well for several years as well and only just succumbed to a connector failure which needs fixing

The gloworm has all those things i loved about the nightmare, programmable, remote, good build quality, yet costs significantly less than a Piko 7.

Just gotta see if I can find one in Perth to "feel the merchandise"


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## marmoset (May 1, 2007)

It looks as though the v3 won't be in Oz for another 2-3 months according to the shop I was in yesterday! This strikes me as odd considering that it's already in the USA and Nz is a bit closer to us here....Is it worth hanging on for one or just going for a v2 at a good price?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

marmoset said:


> It looks as though the v3 won't be in Oz for another 2-3 months according to the shop I was in yesterday! This strikes me as odd considering that it's already in the USA and Nz is a bit closer to us here....Is it worth hanging on for one or just going for a v2 at a good price?


If you really like the idea of being able to program your own mode output levels and you can afford the extra money I think it would be worth waiting.


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

marmoset said:


> It looks as though the v3 won't be in Oz for another 2-3 months according to the shop I was in yesterday! This strikes me as odd considering that it's already in the USA and Nz is a bit closer to us here....Is it worth hanging on for one or just going for a v2 at a good price?


Or you could just buy one from here now:Action-LED-Lights - GLOWORM X2 v3 1500 lumen Bike Light

Tim


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## marmoset (May 1, 2007)

Cheers guys,not sure what to make of it all now! On a light output point of view, is the jump worth it from v2 to v3?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

marmoset said:


> Cheers guys,not sure what to make of it all now! On a light output point of view, is the jump worth it from v2 to v3?


Not that I'm hawking for Gloworm but the ~ 300 lumen increase OTF is not only measurable but noticeable. It will not however dynamically change how well you can ride unless you have previously been using something with considerable less output.

If you're living down under your summer riding season is approaching fast. Whatever you buy you should plan for two lights, one for the bar ( Gloworm ) and one for the helmet. You might want to take a good look at the lamps offered by Xeccon Revolution which is very close to your neck of the woods. They offer some decent lamps/batteries that should be able to reach you really quick. On the other hand if you are looking for a local vendor where you can demo before buying that would be a different issue.

If that's the case you might want to consider buying some, "Just get me by for the moment" Chinese lamps. While you still might not be able to eyeball the lamps before buying at least you can get a good idea how they work by reading this forum. You should be able to buy a couple cheap Chinese lamps ( with batteries ) for about a $100 AUD. As close as you are to China you should get those real quick and have you riding in no time. Later ( when/if ) you decide to upgrade you will have some spare lamps ( for friends to borrow ) or back-ups when needed. Many people here on this forum are using the cheap Chinese lamps. While they have their pro's and con's they usually work good enough to provide the novice/sport rider with enough light to get some really nice night rides in.

Time to stop riding the fence. Roll the dice and take some chances so you can enjoy the night. Anyway, don't wait long. The Christmas rush is fast approaching and after that the Chinese New year holiday. In a couple weeks the vendors will run out of the popular items and start taking back orders. Now is the time to place orders if you want your stuff before Christmas.


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## marmoset (May 1, 2007)

Thanks cat-man-do , I jumped and bought the v2 just a few hours ago, the price was too good to turn down. They blow away the previous light, a nukeproof reactor, which was always a bit of a disappointment compared to the lupine nightmare I'd run prior to it.

It's nice to have a light that's clearly had a lot of though put into it, I've just gotta see if I can alter my lupine peppi(?) switch holder to secure the switch on the bars more securely.

I'll use the gloworm on the bars with my dinotte on the helmet, but that may be like a candle compared to the X2!
If this is an issue I can always stick the x2 on the helmet and either run it alone or buy a v3 to go with it 

Thanks again

Rich


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## Brooks04 (Jun 1, 2004)

I would recommend the gloworm X1 for your helmet. I run the X2 V3 on the bar and the X1 V2 on my helmet and really like it. The X1 is amazingly small and lightweight and the throw is excellent.


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## the_marsbar (Jun 26, 2009)

I own an X2 version 3. I really like the build quality and the amount of light. However, the system feels extremely slow, and I can never get to the light mode I want in the first try. Last time I went for a night ride I was racing some of the guys in my local club. I couldn't get the light to go into the 1500 lumen mode, so I was stuck with the low setting. Annoying. It feels like a bug in the assembler code, or a slow processor (bad code?).


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## blackbean (Nov 20, 2012)

Cat-man-do said:


> Nice, more than enough light coming off the bars no doubt about that.
> Since you have the X2 on the helmet I'm going to comment about that.
> 
> IMO the new version of the X2 is not going to be as "helmet friendly" as the previous version. I say that because the _new user interface_ makes turning the lamp on a bit more of a chore. When I use a helmet lamp I sometimes turn the lamp off unless I really need it for more technical riding. That said when it comes time to turn it on with the new version you will have to put one hand on the helmet, press the button and count about three seconds. THAT is not something always easy to do ( on the fly ) depending on what kind of trail you are on and what obstacles are in front of you.


Catman, I think the reason for the new ON sequence is that it prevents accidentally turning on the light when transporting it in a bag or something. More and more manufacturers are doing this and I think it's a good thing. Nothing like getting to your destination and finding your battery drained.

Also, you seem to be pretty annoyed by the 3 second requirement to turn the light on. Why don't you just depress the button until the light clicks on and then let go instead of trying to count and anticipate when the light will turn on? Seems a lot simpler and less prone to error or frustration. Just hold and let go when you see the beam appear.

But this goes to show you cannot never satisfy everyone and an argument can always be made for or against something.

As for your issue with turning the light on and off during rides, I guess that's an artifact of days when batteries just didn't have enough juice (to a lesser degree, overheating is also an issue) and people turned their lights of to conserve juice. These days I never turn my light off if I need or want to stop for whatever reason. I just turn it to LOW which prevents overheating and draining the battery. I also run on low when going slow at any time. I find this a lot easier than having to deal with turning the light on and off.

Again, not telling you what to do, but I think there are pretty easy solutions to the things that seem to annoy you.


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## eggdog (Nov 17, 2010)

derekbob said:


> View attachment 840708
> 
> 
> Here is my new setup. X2 V3 on the helmet and 2 Olympias on the bars.


Quick question..On your 2 Olympias on the bar are you running each on its own battery or using a Y cable to one battery? I am looking to do the same on my Duo's for the bar.

If using one battery, what capacity is it and what are your approx run time? Any other input on running this configuration would be appreciated.


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## derekbob (May 4, 2005)

eggdog said:


> Quick question..On your 2 Olympias on the bar are you running each on its own battery or using a Y cable to one battery? I am looking to do the same on my Duo's for the bar.
> 
> If using one battery, what capacity is it and what are your approx run time? Any other input on running this configuration would be appreciated.


I have a 6 cell MS battery (MJ-6038) with a Y cable and I also have 2 of the high capacity MS 4 cells (Mj-6030H) for longer rides. If I'm going on a really long night ride I'll just run one Olympia. With the 6 cell I usually run for about 45 min on medium then 30-40 min on high (short rides only).


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## crgmoto (Nov 12, 2012)

the_marsbar said:


> I own an X2 version 3. I really like the build quality and the amount of light. However, the system feels extremely slow, and I can never get to the light mode I want in the first try. Last time I went for a night ride I was racing some of the guys in my local club. I couldn't get the light to go into the 1500 lumen mode, so I was stuck with the low setting. Annoying. It feels like a bug in the assembler code, or a slow processor (bad code?).


You should contact the supplier of your light and they will get this resolved for you.

Catman - following customer feedback Gloworm have now changed the UI for the latest batch of the X2 v3 to a single click for on in Trail mode.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

crgmoto said:


> You should contact the supplier of your light and they will get this resolved for you.
> 
> *Catman - following customer feedback Gloworm have now changed the UI for the latest batch of the X2 v3 to a single click for on in Trail mode.*


Well this is news to me! I hope this is something good but does leave the question, "How is the second_ race_ menu brought up"?

More important, did they increase the length of the remote cable?

*@ Jim from ActionLED; Can you confirm any of this change?*


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## Gloworm Manufacture (Nov 29, 2011)

Hi Cat

We did do a review and have adjusted the programming to enable a single click to enter the trail programme, while we have maintained a double click to enter the commuter mode.

Due to manufacturing constraints we have not lengthened the remote switch however it is on the list. 

As always we are always refining our products and will react as fast as we can with changes to improve customer experience.

Cheers

Bruce


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Fleezus (Aug 27, 2013)

I've now had a set of Gloworms for about 3 weeks and I figured it was time to give my impressions.

I have an X1v2 and X2v3. The X1 is on the helmet with the two cell battery and the X2 is on the bars with a 4 cell. The two lights certainly compliment each other with beam pattern and intensity.

I reprogrammed the light settings to get roughly matching run times between the lights, so High=2.25-2.5hrs runtime, Med=4.5-5hrs runtime, and Low=8.5-9hrs runtime. The biggest change to the default settings was the med setting on the X1, the others were just small tweaks if needed at all.

Light color is best described as white. The two lights have the same temperature light so the beams blend perfectly. The optics of the X1 definitely focus the light and give it more throw (I'm using the standard spot lense). If I swing the X1 beam across the area lit up by the X2, it is clear the spot is more "intense" then the flood pattern of the X2. It doesn't overwhelm it at all, but the 950 lumens "looks" brighter then the 1500 out of the X2. This is a compliment for the X1 more than a complaint about the X2.

In practice, I have found that I do most of my climbing and slower flat riding with the lights in the dim setting (ultra low, 48hrs runtime). I bump it up to low if speeding up on flat ground. Downhill I haven't actually _needed_ to run them on high. Medium has plenty of light on trails I know and I don't find myself wanting more. I still bump it up to high for really high speed sections, or if my remaining battery life is excessive for the amount of riding I have left to do. I consider it a luxury, though, and not really needed. Around town I use a mix of low and dim.

Of the special modes, I leave the standard program default with the dim setting, but changed the "commute" program so that the special mode is "strobe" rather than "flash". I feel the flash setting is too bright around traffic, and I don't ride on roads much anyway.

I first mounted the 2 cell battery on the back of my helmet, but I couldn't get it "solid" enough for my tastes. It would flop around a little, which is something that bothers me with any device, so I added the extension cord and moved it to the backpack. I run the plug under one of the loops on my shoulder so I can easily reach/find it when I need to disconnect. The weight of the battery on the helmet was never really an issue for me, and the loose mounting is more due to the shape of the helmet and location of the vents I mounted to. The 4 cell for the bar light just goes in my water bottle holder, which allows me to solidly mount it with no swinging back and forth or movement.

I'm very happy so far and look forward to night rides whenever possible!

I do have two questions, though.

First, the light on the batteries sometimes flashes while charging, and sometimes stay solid. At first I thought that it would change from flashing to solid as each "level" was filled, but I get mixed results from unplugging and plugging it back in (will go from flashing to solid, or vice versa). It's not a problem, but I'm just curious what the difference between flashing and solid is when it is charging?

The second is about mounting orientation. I prefer the button on the left side of the handlebar. It's a carryover from riding motorcycles where I'm much more used to/comfortable taking my left hand off the bars than my right. I can reach the button on the bars w/o removing my hand, but I need to remove it to adjust the helmet light so I keep them on the same side. Mounting the switch on the left side means the quick release needs to go on the right side of the stem, effectively mounting the light "upside down". Is there any possible concern to having the light upside down from a heat dissipation, vibration, etc... standpoint?

Again, great product and I'm very satisfied. I second (third, fourth?) the suggestion to lengthen the button cord. I would also love to see a slicker mount for the switch on the bars. I snapped one of the rubber band mounts attempting to bend it 90 degrees so I could stick to the switch to it. I now plan on grinding it down as flat a possible and throwing some gloss black paint on it so the adhesive will stick. If this is successful I'll post up some pictures.


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

Fleezus,

In answer to your 2 questions;
For the first, it's my understanding that the battery flashes while charging and turns solid when fully charged. I'm running a couple through a charge cycle to confirm.
For the second, right side up or upside down makes no difference. You can mount it on the top of the bar, on the bottom or straight out. On the right or left.
On cord length, I agree a little longer would be good but also, the Y needs to be reversed. The light is usually mounted at the center of the bar and the battery on the stem or frame at the center of the bike. The battery lead needs to come back towards the center rather than out towards the switch.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Action LED Lights said:


> ...the Y needs to be reversed. The light is usually mounted at the center of the bar and the battery on the stem or frame at the center of the bike. The battery lead needs to come back towards the center rather than out towards the switch.


^^ That would make a lot more sense ^^

If these suggested changes make it to production, and a nice discount/sale comes along  ... I'm ready to jump in 8)


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## Fleezus (Aug 27, 2013)

Action LED Lights said:


> ...
> 
> For the first, it's my understanding that the battery flashes while charging and turns solid when fully charged. I'm running a couple through a charge cycle to confirm.
> 
> ...


This is what I thought, too, when I first got the light. In practice I've had it do both ways and I just use the light on the charger as the indicator of whether it's done charging or not. What I meant about unplugging it and plugging it back in is that it will be flashing 80%, and after re-attaching it the light will be solid 80%. In either case it finishes charging just fine and the light on the charger will go from red to green. Again, not a problem at all. Just something I noticed and was curious about. Both batteries do it.

Thank you for the quick responses and your great customer service. ActionLED kicks ass!


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## TechniKal (Mar 18, 2004)

How's the thermal "capacity" of the x2 vs. the Duo? I recently purchased the duo and like it except for it dropping to low due to over heating, even though it's winter here and I'm moving on the bike. Can the x2 tolerate running in high for an extended period with ambient temps in the 60s or above, while moving at the slower speeds you encounter on technical trails? Ex avg 5 or 6 mph?


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## neninja (Jul 11, 2010)

I've never had an X2 power down due to heat whilst riding, it will if you are stationary for any length of time but not if there is airflow over the light.

The fins on the X2 give it a very large surface area to dissipate heat. The X2 is a larger/heavier unit than the Duo which is of benefit in 2 ways - increased surface area and more metal to act as a heat sink to draw heat away from the emitters.


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

One difference between the X2 and Duo is the way they handle overheating. If you put both lights on high in still air and let them heat up, when the Duo reaches a dangerous temperature, it cycles down to low until it has time to cool and then powers back up. 
The X2 (I tested a v3) powers down gradually until the temperature stops rising. It is so slow that you have a hard time noticing that it's changing but it starts right away. It will then reach an equilibrium temperature and vary slightly up and down from there. If you then start moving or put a fan on the light it starts brightening until it reaches a new equilibrium.
Here a plot of brightness over about 8 1/2 minutes in still air @ 64 degreesF


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

*Gloworm X2 upgrade*

Gloworm has just release a minor upgrade to the X2 which now shares optics with the XS. (We'll call it v3.1 to differentiate it.) The optics are a little deeper allowing the light to be better focused and more efficiently reflected. There looks to be about a 10% increase in light output for the X2 with this change. Francios has the new version and I am anxious to see how his testing compares to mine.









Unfortunately do to their larger size they cannot be fitted into the older version. To accommodate the housing depth (front to back) has been increased by about 3mm.









A nice little improvement as Gloworm continues to push the envelope and leave their competition one step farther behind.

These v3.1 lights are now in stock and shipping as of the first of the week.


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## pigmode (Nov 15, 2009)

^ and that's why after acquiring an X1, my next two lights will be Gloworms.


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## blackbean (Nov 20, 2012)

Action LED Lights said:


> A nice little improvement as Gloworm continues to push the envelope and leave their competition one step farther behind.
> 
> These v3.1 lights are now in stock and shipping as of the first of the week.


A nice improvement and I guess there always will be improvements, but I'm sure a lot of people who already bought the X2 v3 or earlier XS without the modifications might be annoyed at getting what would perceived to be an 'inferior' version now.

I for one am glad I held off but now might wait even longer if indeed I pull the trigger. I know these are good products, but the prices have jumped a whole lot and IMO not so competitively priced anymore.

Were these changes made my Action-LED or Gloworm?


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## Gloworm Manufacture (Nov 29, 2011)

blackbean said:


> A nice improvement and I guess there always will be improvements, but I'm sure a lot of people who already bought the X2 v3 or earlier XS without the modifications might be annoyed at getting what would perceived to be an 'inferior' version now.
> 
> I for one am glad I held off but now might wait even longer if indeed I pull the trigger. I know these are good products, but the prices have jumped a whole lot and IMO not so competitively priced anymore.
> 
> Were these changes made my Action-LED or Gloworm?


Of course the changes were made by Gloworm (Action is a retailer who is supplied lights by our USA distributor - but he does a fantastic job and we receive a lot of great feedback from Jim). We have received a lot of feedback regarding the performance of our products and as such will continually improve. If any changes are going to be dramatic we will plan to release the product once the previous version has almost been sold out.

We deemed this type of improvement as a refinement rather than an upgrade, it was also part of the plan to make more efficient our manufacturing process with the investment in our own custom optic that fit both the XS and X2.

Happy to receive feedback as it is what promotes our products to be the best they can.

Cheers

Bruce
Gloworm NZ


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

Blackbean, 

Bruce can correct me if I'm wrong but the XS has had these new optics since day one.


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## Gloworm Manufacture (Nov 29, 2011)

Action LED Lights said:


> Blackbean,
> 
> Bruce can correct me if I'm wrong but the XS has had these new optics since day one.


Jim, that is correct. We designed the XS platform around the new optics.


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## Fleezus (Aug 27, 2013)

While I can't help but be a little disappointed that I'm missing out on the new optics with my recently purchased X2v3, I fully encourage the active development and quick updates that Gloworm does.

It's really funny how the psychological game works in our heads. Take something that we are completely satisfied with, dangle something incrementally better in front of us, and suddenly the previous item isn't adequate anymore.


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## blackbean (Nov 20, 2012)

Fleezus said:


> While I can't help but be a little disappointed that I'm missing out on the new optics with my recently purchased X2v3, I fully encourage the active development and quick updates that Gloworm does.
> 
> It's really funny how the psychological game works in our heads. Take something that we are completely satisfied with, dangle something incrementally better in front of us, and suddenly the previous item isn't adequate anymore.


Well said. That is so true. And that's why I resisted the urge just to jump to the X2 v3 or the XS. I will always like an improved light but am trying to not just jump the gun. That being said, I think I will keep my X2 v2 and just use it as a dedicated spot if I buy a new light. Hopefully Francois will complete the reviews on the new Gloworm line up soon.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Action LED Lights;
A nice little improvement as Gloworm continues to push the envelope
.[/QUOTE said:


> This is why I've decided to give Gloworm my business and buy this light. I've got one question before I order. Jim, I don't see where I can order an extra set of optics. I want to try different combinations and I'd like to order them with the light. Do you have them in stock yet?
> Mole


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

MRMOLE said:


> This is why I've decided to give Gloworm my business and buy this light. I've got one question before I order. Jim, I don't see where I can order an extra set of optics. I want to try different combinations and I'd like to order them with the light. Do you have them in stock yet?
> Mole


Now listed: XS Spot Optic
However, spare optics are included with the XS. For the newer X2 they are extra.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

I only managed to get out once since I got the X2V3.1 but it appears like I got just what I was looking for. I took my duo out with the Gloworm and the results were: similar beam width and brightness but the Gloworm had A LOT MORE THROW. It's like they took the extra power and just added to the reach of the beam, not brighter in the foreground just a nice smooth even beam, perfect for my eyes. It also appears that the X2V3.1 runs cooler too. I ran both lights on high for a little less than a mile at about 5 mph - Gloworm warm to the touch and the due was hot. I also ran them for a couple of minutes with no airflow when I got home and the Gloworm cooled down much quicker so I think the X2V3.1 is going to be a cooler running light. I haven't tried switching to the spot/spot optic combo yet or even tried it on my helmet but I'm pleased so far.

One question for Jim @ ActionLEDlights. I noticed you mentioned in the XS thread that the wide angle lens had some issues and that you'd recommend running all spot optics on the XS which shares optics with the X2V3.1. I running the stock wide/spot and was planning on testing that for a while but will change right away if the spot/spot combo is better in every way. Thanks for the great service! What's your opinion?
Mole


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

Mole,

Here's the beam pattern plot for the X2v3.1 with each lens combo.
The results are as expected with the wide angle lens only reducing the amount of light. You'll have to wait a little while to get a spot lens as we're sold out at the moment.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Action LED Lights said:


> *Gloworm has just release a minor upgrade to the X2 which now shares optics with the XS. (We'll call it v3.1 to differentiate it.)* The optics are a little deeper allowing the light to be better focused and more efficiently reflected. There looks to be about a 10% increase in light output for the X2 with this change. Francios has the new version and I am anxious to see how his testing compares to mine.
> 
> View attachment 854250
> 
> ...


Okay, now I'm a little confused. When I bought the X2 (v3) it was hyped with the *New emitter* ( XM-L2 "U2" ), *new programming* and *new optics*. As far as I knew I was getting "new optics" when I purchased the X2 (v3). :skep:

If you look at the original Gloworm thread ( see post #1150 posted on 9/23/13 ) is says this;



Gloworm Manufacture said:


> Hey all, passing through Yosemite National Park as I write this......the new optics are appx 10% brighter regardless of the emitter, well actually we tested them with the previous emitters. So all up increase is including optics and new emitters.
> 
> Unfortunately the new optics a not backwards compatible, to get an increased output we needed to lengthen the optics by 1.2mm and play around with the interior design also.
> 
> ...


Now when I got mine I assumed the optics for the (v3) were of "new design" because of this conversation. To me they looked different but I didn't take the front of the lamp off to confirm that the optics were indeed "new design".

Any comment before I investigate further and decide to voice more on what I think about this issue?  ( *Note, add to this I see no reference on the official Gloworm New Zealand site of there being a "3.1" version. I realize that some improvements were made to the programming from the original "v3" that I assume were done to eliminate the issues I encountered when I first got mine. That said as far as I know nothing yet was done to change the remote ( wire ) length. Now I am reading that the one I bought ( X2 (v3) ) "doesn't" have the new optics......is this true?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Hey Cat,
Although I don't know for sure, I'm guessing that since there is a chart on the action website showing a performance advantage for the 3.1 vs. the 3 version and they have the same emitters that there must have been an optic upgrade between the two. I do know that I don't have any of the UI problems that you experienced. On my 3.1 one push on the remote button turns the light on, and each additional push changes the intensity level, no lag, no hickups, works great. 
Mole


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

I have to try like 4-5 times with the single push to get my x2 v3 to turn on. For now its not a big problem with it being on handlebar but when I get the XS tomorrow the X2 v3 is going up on the helmet. It's going to be a huge PITA if I have to have one hand off the bars for 20 seconds as I keep trying to get my helmet light to turn on. The one thing I notice it I can always get it to switch on in commuter mode with the quick double tap but the single press is just frustrating. I'm considering adjusting the commuter mode to suit my trail needs since it switches on every time first time but it sucks ill only have two setting to work with


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## crgmoto (Nov 12, 2012)

RojoRacing53
If your X2 v3 was from the earlier batch it had a user interface that was designed to stop accidental switching on in kit bags etc.

To switch on in Trail mode you press and hold for 4-5 seconds - press the button and count to 5 and release it and the light will come straight on.
Commuter is the double click as you observed.


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

Thanks I'll give that a try but that's still a long time when in the middle of a 24hr race on some courses. Being on a single speed bike and having to stand out of the saddle for ether climbs or descents and with most courses having little to no flat stuff I have a hard enough time finding time to pull a hand off the bars long enough to grab my water bottle let along deal with both my bottle and light. I may have to leave my X2 v2 on the helmet and sell the v3 if it really becomes a problem. 

With what ever light is on the bars it's not a problem because I can have on hand there the whole time so its easy. Did they change the timing for turning on the v3 with the v3.1 update or is it the same?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

crgmoto said:


> RojoRacing53
> user interface that was designed to stop accidental switching on in kit bags etc.
> 
> I'm not sure I buy this, I always unplug my battery when not in use for safety reason
> ...


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

Yeah I just tried the 5 seconds then release deal and it works but it doesn't come on untill you "release" the button, so that 5 seconds is going to be an eternity as I crest the climb and I'm quickly closing in on that rocky descent. I should have the XS tomorrow and was told the programming for the x2 v3 was the same as the XS, if the XS works like your X2 v3.1 and my x2 v2 then I'll give Jim or gloworm a call and see what can be done. 

I hate to sound picky here and don't want to seem like I'm trying to take advantage of Jim at action since he's been so helpful so far with a replacement battery and endless answers. It's just for weekly night rides its manageable especially when used on the bars and most riders probably wouldn't care. But when I'm using these for 24hr solo races and have to change the light level from low to high on to off several times a lap to extend battery life the UI is kind critical. 

In the mean time I can't wait for that XS to show up so I can go poach some single track in nearly freezing weather tomorrow.


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## sadbuttrue (Sep 9, 2013)

Can the brightness in flash mode be altered with Gloworm lights like it can with the Gemini Duo? I'd rather not be flashing more then 300 lumens at oncoming traffic from a helmet light.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

RojoRacing53 said:


> *Yeah I just tried the 5 seconds then release deal and it works but it doesn't come on untill you "release" the button, so that 5 seconds is going to be an eternity as I crest the climb and I'm quickly closing in on that rocky descent. *I should have the XS tomorrow and was told the programming for the x2 v3 was the same as the XS, if the XS works like your X2 v3.1 and my x2 v2 then I'll give Jim or gloworm a call and see what can be done.
> 
> I hate to sound picky here and don't want to seem like I'm trying to take advantage of Jim at action since he's been so helpful so far with a replacement battery and endless answers. It's just for weekly night rides its manageable especially when used on the bars and most riders probably wouldn't care. But *when I'm using these for 24hr solo races and have to change the light level from low to high on to off several times a lap to extend battery life the UI is kind critical. *
> 
> In the mean time I can't wait for that XS to show up so I can go poach some single track in nearly freezing weather tomorrow.


I tried this 5 sec push/hold idea. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Same with the 2nd program. There is no consistent operational protocol for getting the X2 (v3) to turn on. Sometimes takes minutes to get the lamp to come on ( in the menu you want ).

My suggestion for race helmet use (v3 ) is to never turn the lamp off, rather turn it to the lowest level ( which you can set for minimal output ) and then just let it run. Not the perfect solution but unless Gloworm wants to come forward and do a recall of their product it seems the only reasonable option you have to save run time ( without turning the lamp off ).

In the mean time I'm beginning to feel like an unwilling "beta" tester. I paid full price for a product that failed to meet the expectations that were talked about before the product was released. While the product I have is still usable I expected better. That said I will no longer be the first to spend my own money on a Gloworm product until I know for sure that the product lives up to the hype. I'm no longer going to be the beta guinea pig for a product that failed to meet expectations.

I feel Gloworm needs to issue a recall on the first line of X2 ( v3 )'s that were sold. Changes that need to be made as follows; Make sure all customers have a workable UI with the promised new UI. "New optics" should be included with all X2 (v3)s'. Add to that the remote wire needs to be long enough to work with longer handlebars. Now if they do all this I will soften my tone otherwise I'll let the chips fall where they may.


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

Jim is in the process of helping me out with my problem and I'm going to try a couple things. I just got done telling Jim that I'd feel better about sending my lighthead back if I knew "Gloworm" was stepping up to the plate to help him out and he isn't just trying to absorb their error. I don't want to lose another top notch bike product distributor like we did with geoman gear and the magicshine battery recall debacle because I'm sure we all know people like Jim in the retail world are rare these days. 

Cat I'm sure you feel the same way in regards to this.


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

I let a friend who wants to get into night MTBing try out the v3 a couple nights ago and he absolutly loved its performance, I did however make sure it was on before sending him off for the second half of his ride. I may sell my X2 V2 to him once I get the X2 V3 situation solved then I'll be sending him over to action to get a second X1 or X2 for his helmet. 

My other buddy was trying to be a cheap ass and bought those ebay magicshine knockoffs for like $30 and the performance was laughable at best. I'm going to try and defuse his POS lights to help spread his super narrow beam pattern but I already told him he should be looking to get some gloworms for his new $4000 bike he just built. It's like going XX1 and then trying to put a $10 chain on, it's just seems silly to me.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

RojoRacing53 said:


> Jim is in the process of helping me out with my problem and I'm going to try a couple things. I just got done telling Jim that I'd feel better about sending my lighthead back if I knew "Gloworm" was stepping up to the plate to help him out and he isn't just trying to absorb their error. I don't want to lose another top notch bike product distributor like we did with geoman gear and the magicshine battery recall debacle because I'm sure we all know people like Jim in the retail world are rare these days.
> 
> *Cat I'm sure you feel the same way in regards to this*.


Absolutely. I place none of the blame for this on ActionLED. I'm sure Jim will do all he can to back what he sells. I'm not advocating a ban on the product but I would like to see "Gloworm" ( the manufacturer ) be more forthcoming in making sure that everyone gets what they thought they were paying for.


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

Cat, you need to clean out your PM inbox. Trying to send you a message but your box is full.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

RojoRacing53 said:


> My other buddy was trying to be a cheap ass and bought those ebay magicshine knockoffs for like $30 and the performance was laughable at best.


Those are the same lights that Cat recommends as being a good value in other threads? 

*****


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

scar said:


> Those are the same lights that Cat recommends as being a good value in other threads?
> 
> *****


I'm not sure but probably not since my friend isn't on mtbr as far as I know. They were single emitter 808 style. The funny thing was is he was really happy with them on his test ride last weekend but when I showed up to our weekly wed night ride and saw what everyone else is running it was apparent that his setup lacking. There's quite of few riders in our group that run up to three cheap headlights on their bars but that's not going to cut it if you care about wieght or flipping setting on the fly. In the end I don't care what others run so long as they continue to show up to our night rides and keep the ride alive.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

scar said:


> Those are the same lights that Cat recommends as being a good value in other threads?
> 
> *****


You mean that "Cat and _almost everyone else _recommends as being a good value in other threads"? If someone doesn't like the output/beam pattern from one of those doesn't mean it wasn't a good value. A couple days ago I saw a single emitter XM-L bike lamp on Kaidomain for $16. It was a 3-mode lamp with battery ( I think ). Even with a lousy battery you can't beat the value. Add to that just because something has value doesn't mean there isn't something that will beat it. Depends on what you want, what you get and what your expectations were when you ordered it as to how something rates as value. If you buy a lamp that put's out over 600 lumen, has multi-modes, operates as expected and gets you 2 hours run time, for $25 that's a decent value IMO. Doesn't mean there isn't something better that you will like more.

Back in the day with my old halogens, if your bulb or battery lasted a year you were lucky and those were much more money to replace. Not to mention the output wasn't no where near what the present LED lamps are able to produce.


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

Yeah they we're a good value for the $ but total crap compared to a gloworm as far as performance. I often for get not everyone has such high performance standards as I or like to rip down rocky single tracks faster then most would ever consider during the day.


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## Gloworm Manufacture (Nov 29, 2011)

Hey,

We are working very closely with Jim and Joey, the USA distributor. Jim will not be out of pocket, as any lights he has been replacing will subsequently being replaced by us.

There is no way we would leave retailers to absorb warranties, we have a solid warranty process with our retailers and distributors. We replace warranties ASAP and attempt to get faulty units back to assess issues.

I urge you to get in touch with Jim to sort your issue an we will definitely be dealing with the units post situation.

Cheers

Bruce
Gloworm NZ



RojoRacing53 said:


> Jim is in the process of helping me out with my problem and I'm going to try a couple things. I just got done telling Jim that I'd feel better about sending my lighthead back if I knew "Gloworm" was stepping up to the plate to help him out and he isn't just trying to absorb their error. I don't want to lose another top notch bike product distributor like we did with geoman gear and the magicshine battery recall debacle because I'm sure we all know people like Jim in the retail world are rare these days.
> 
> Cat I'm sure you feel the same way in regards to this.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Gloworm Manufacture (Nov 29, 2011)

Cat,

I appreciate and understand your position.

When we sent the units to the market these irregularities did not exist in all the products, but have begun to show up. We would never send a product to market to be tested by the customers.

The issues you and some others have incurred has been traced to a programming issue and can be rectified - as offered by PM.

We are progressively replacing units as and when customers get in touch as not all units are reacting in this way and many customers, not all online, are very happy with the product.

Regarding the cable length, this is not a quick fix however we have now made the change in addition to a material change to the cable outer, making it more flexible and durable. The change will be seen in the market by the end of January.

I understand your annoyance with the situation and all I can offer is assurance that we are continually working to keep our products top notch and right any weaknesses as quickly as possible. Please don't consider yourself to have been a 'beta' tester as this was never the intention. The issues were pure technical issues that could not be predicted.

Kind regards

Bruce
Gloworm NZ



Cat-man-do said:


> I tried this 5 sec push/hold idea. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Same with the 2nd program. There is no consistent operational protocol for getting the X2 (v3) to turn on. Sometimes takes minutes to get the lamp to come on ( in the menu you want ).
> 
> My suggestion for race helmet use (v3 ) is to never turn the lamp off, rather turn it to the lowest level ( which you can set for minimal output ) and then just let it run. Not the perfect solution but unless Gloworm wants to come forward and do a recall of their product it seems the only reasonable option you have to save run time ( without turning the lamp off ).
> 
> ...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Gloworm Manufacture said:


> Cat,
> 
> I appreciate and understand your position.
> 
> ...


Thanks Bruce for your feedback. I hope to see the improvements in the X2 ( v3 ) you mentioned in the future. I did get your PM. Since you have made it clear that all of the issues that I have beforehand mentioned will be addressed by the end of January 2014, I will wait until that time before trying to obtain a replacement.

Personally, I am in no hurry. For the record I felt it necessary to speak out not so much because I was so dissatisfied with the product but because I wanted to know that other people who might buy the product get everything normally expected out of what I consider, "a premium product". It seems to me now that you are taking the proper steps to correct the problems and to keep ALL OF YOUR CUSTOMERS satisfied.

Anyone else that has previously bought the X2 (v3) and has had the same problems that I ( and others ) have had be sure to contact the distributor you bought from to check when and how replacements will be provided and when they will become available. Kudo's to both Jim ( ActionLED ) and Bruce ( Gloworm Products ) for taking the bull by the horns.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Hi, can anybody tell, what is the real difference between v3 and v3.1? I've found a note: "v3.1 is updated from v3.0 with new optics to better focus the beam" on Action-LED-Light sites, but nothing on Gloworm pages. Is the new optics retro-usable for v3 lighthead?


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## pabcor (Aug 25, 2011)

Good light Gloworm X2 V3.1


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

X2v3.0 and X2v3.1 are terms we adopted here at Action LED Lights to differentiate between before and after some minor changes that Gloworm made to the light. They are not using the label v3.1 themselves.
The X2v3.0 had the same optics as the v2 but added higher output and programing. 
The X2v3.1 switched to the same optics as the XS and has a little better focus. The optics are not interchangeable since the body of the light got slightly longer to accommodate the new optic.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Thanks very much for explanation. I just wonder, if v3.0 lights available in EU (crgmoto, etc.) are new optics or not, same v3.0 designation for old and new optics is confusing ...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Action LED Lights said:


> X2v3.0 and X2v3.1 are terms we adopted here at Action LED Lights to differentiate between before and after some minor changes that Gloworm made to the light. They are not using the label v3.1 themselves.
> The X2v3.0 had the same optics as the v2 but added higher output and programing.
> The X2v3.1 switched to the same optics as the XS and has a little better focus. The optics are not interchangeable since the body of the light got slightly longer to accommodate the new optic.


Jim, I'm still a little confused about all this v3 verses v3.1 thing. I thought when I bought mine that I was getting upgraded optics. Can you give me the length measurement of the v3.1 so I can compare it to mine.

Lastly, nice to read about changes. I would like to think that a willingness to actually change the dimensions of the lamp would also suggest a willingness to perhaps add 3 or 4mm to the remote wire. That said have there been any changes to remote length?


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

Cat,

The easy way to tell the difference between the 3.0 and the 3.1 is to look at the back cap of the light. Were is says X2, the crossbar of the X has 1500 printed in it for the 3.1, nothing on the 3.0. 
If you have some calipers handy the 3.0 is 34.4mm front to back and the 3.1 is 36mm.
The change to the beam is small. If I have time this week I could run the beam pattern test on both.
A change to the wire is in the works. It will be a running change which means there will be no version number change, not even for us since the service parts will not change. I can't quite predict when the change will occur but it's not too far off.


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## antipop (Jun 3, 2009)

Does anyone have a photo of the X2 V3 set up on their helmet that they could share?


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## pabcor (Aug 25, 2011)




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## antipop (Jun 3, 2009)

Thanks Pabcor!


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

I had a problem with my X2V3.1 lighthead that required a warranty replacement (taken care of right away by action-led-lights - Thanks Jim). The first I noticed when I unpacked the light was that they've extended the length of the wire connecting the remote by approx. 2 in. I know this was a big deal to a lot of people so I thought I should share this information about Gloworms product update.
Mole


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

DIY remote control handlebar mount: Introducing Gloworm X2 - New Dual XM-L LED light system - Page 47


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## pabcor (Aug 25, 2011)

PeterG said:


> DIY remote control handlebar mount: Introducing Gloworm X2 - New Dual XM-L LED light system - Page 47


good idea but today arrives me that, new X2 remote control suport :thumbsup:


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## rearviewmirror (Jun 14, 2006)

Where do you get your Gloworm lights from in the US?


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## pabcor (Aug 25, 2011)

Usually I buy to Action Led Lights, but this light precisely i bought to the manufacturer Gloworm directly to sell on my website Luces potentes para tu bici | Accesorios para tus luces y Frontales ligeros y de calidad.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Action LED Lights said:


> One difference between the X2 and Duo is the way they handle overheating. If you put both lights on high in still air and let them heat up, when the Duo reaches a dangerous temperature, it cycles down to low until it has time to cool and then powers back up.
> The X2 (I tested a v3) powers down gradually until the temperature stops rising. It is so slow that you have a hard time noticing that it's changing but it starts right away. It will then reach an equilibrium temperature and vary slightly up and down from there. If you then start moving or put a fan on the light it starts brightening until it reaches a new equilibrium.
> Here a plot of brightness over about 8 1/2 minutes in still air @ 64 degreesF
> 
> View attachment 853572


Hi Guys
Has any one run any tests regarding the output versus run time on the X2?
It is an expensive light and I wonder what you get for your money. What sort of discharge line it has? Is it a constant 1500lumens and for how long?
I like the way it handles heat, pretty impressive!


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

Skyraider59 said:


> Hi Guys
> Has any one run any tests regarding the output versus run time on the X2?
> It is an expensive light and I wonder what you get for your money. What sort of discharge line it has? Is it a constant 1500lumens and for how long?
> I like the way it handles heat, pretty impressive!


Yes, it is a constant 1500 lumens for the full 2.5 hours runtime (new battery) 
It will flash a few times when your down to a few minutes remaining so you know it's time to stop and change battery or switch to low.

Reporting from the Interbike show


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## Smoke&Lasers (Feb 22, 2014)

Action LED Lights said:


> It will flash a few times when your down to a few minutes remaining so you know it's time to stop and change battery or switch to low.


How must time would be left after the flashing warning then change to low?
Hour or Minutes.

_how long a bit of string_

I send email to Gloworm on other questions for Uk seller found one but not seen QR mount or new switch mount like A.L.L in pack.


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## crgmoto (Nov 12, 2012)

UK stock does not have the new switch mount or QR as standard yet. The price reflects this.

I'll see if I can arrange some switch mounts in the meantime.


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## Smoke&Lasers (Feb 22, 2014)

Crgmoto - Hi my UK seller 

More interested in QR then rubber band, switch mount is more me being a tart.

Got email back from mate he got his two X2 from London bike show this year 

Thanks


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## Smoke&Lasers (Feb 22, 2014)

Hay CRGMoto 

I sent PM also you have Gloworm X2 V3 will you have V3.1 In stock soon got a price ?

I read the V3.1 has more lumens 1500 and a longer cable to switch any other benefits over V3 

Thanks


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Smoke&Lasers said:


> Hay CRGMoto
> 
> I sent PM also you have Gloworm X2 V3 will you have V3.1 In stock soon got a price ?
> 
> ...


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## Smoke&Lasers (Feb 22, 2014)

Thanks Mr Mole 

--
Also Gloworm Quick Release Bracket - Compatible with the GoPro Quick Release system will this be for sale in the UK too. Or Action LED Light ship wonder cost from US to UK.

Thanks


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

The version 3.1 is strictly our creation (not Gloworms) to differentiate the switch to the new housing and optics and make customer service easier. At the same time the switch wire got a little longer. We have now upgraded all our stock to include the switch mount and the X1 and X2 to contain the GoPro style quick release mount.
The output of the emitters did not change but the focus was improved with the new optics.


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## Smoke&Lasers (Feb 22, 2014)

Are that makes things more clear.


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## mbcracken (Aug 12, 2006)

Yesterday, I recieved my X2 v3.1 along with the 2.9 two cell battery. Incredibly lightweight for the power it puts out. I was super impressed with the battery output of the little 2 cell guy too. Very nice product. I look forward to trying it out soon. I'll also be using mine for XC night skiing this winter. 

Cheers,
Mike


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## NightOWL (Jul 30, 2006)

I smell a gloworm groupbuy. who would be in?


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## Smoke&Lasers (Feb 22, 2014)

Yep got my one today from Crgmoto.co.uk :thumbsup:
Sadly can't get out tonight other then garden but tomorrow night is ride night 

I need to do some read double click like mouse to get SM or Commuter mode can't seem to get there. Dim will be great for pre ride waiting for others.

I read on one side before buying _Cons Battery is a little heavy_. heavy! that just rubbish.

Bring on tomorrow night.

Also will be get the QR mount for bar, will have to take off the fit the nice zip box.


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## Smoke&Lasers (Feb 22, 2014)

After dicking about last night RTFM then read this thread this morning seem so make some senses.

So is this right :crazy:
Click and hold for 5 then let go Trail program starts. Press & hold to get to SM Dim this seem to work for me.

Double click to get to _Road_ Commuter this don't seem to work all the time the high end 1000Lum looks brighter then my High end in Trail program (High) 1500lum

(My imagination)

Sometimes I get Trail program from Double click too.

lost of playing about or clicking can't see how to get to Beacon I may need one day. I think I could be looking at Beacon then flash!

Surprised there isn't youtube video on light setting or how to customise.

Thanks
Sending PM to Gloworm


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## Smoke&Lasers (Feb 22, 2014)

Still no email reply from Gloworm two weeks I think.

What I found so far some could be me.

My stem head end hold bar is quite big with the gear and brake cables in way think the mount which is held by rubber band should be higher so stands higher of bars it's just to small xx mm high.

I'm going to get QR mount hoping that larger.

Cable to switch not very long and velcro sticky pad has come off bars. If cable was longer I could put switch on brake mount as that flat be a better base then round bars. 

I done factory reset so hoping with will solved my switch problem in program.

Tonight on downhill run light was on full at bottom of run turn left onto road press button light didn't dim press again nothing then third time with two taps on button light dimed. Then back on trail pressed button each time I click it the light stepped down a leave lower & lower each time I want light to go up not down!

Light is bright and battery great have been out for five ride with stops. 

But the switch & programing.
Velcro pad maybe good on a lid but not bars.

Am I moaning maybe but then again this is not a £15 - £30 light from China.

I would like some after care from Gloworm. Maybe I should have tried the reseller then the company that make the product.


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

Smoke&Lasers said:


> Still no email reply from Gloworm two weeks I think.
> 
> What I found so far some could be me.
> 
> ...


I believe I can answer your questions.
Sounds like you are using the O-ring mount for your bar. Remember, you can also mount the light under the bar if that gives you a better shot past cables and the like. The QR mount will allow you to get farther away from the bar, above or below. Another option would be to use one of our Computer/Headlight Mounts.
For mounting the switch, Gloworm now provides a switch mount that gives you a flat place to mount the switch on your bar. They are available HERE. 
As far as the switch problem goes, if it's not responding there must be a problem with the switch which would be covered by warranty. Talk to whom ever you purchased it from. When you hit the button twice you entered programing mode and the light dropped to 10%. It then steps up 10% with each push. If you find yourself in this mode accidentally, the easiest way to get out without changing anything is just to unplug the battery.
If you want to change two levels at one time you have to wait 1 or 2 seconds between pushes to assure you don't in up in programing mode.

Hope that helps. Let me know if you have other questions.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

Smoke&Lasers said:


> Cable to switch not very long and velcro sticky pad has come off bars. If cable was longer I could put switch on brake mount as that flat be a better base then round bars.
> Velcro pad maybe good on a lid but not bars.


I used some sticky Velcro from WalMart, very solid, works great. I have the XS on my bars, cable seems long enough but I only have 740mm bars. Of course, I don't have shifters....


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## Smoke&Lasers (Feb 22, 2014)

Thanks Action LED Lights & patski



> you can also mount the light under the bar if that gives you a better shot past cables and the like


Were I seem to move light front of stem hits back top or bottom of light, or the cables are in the way.



> When you hit the button twice you entered programming mode and the light dropped to 10%


I did read from Manual and on here I read double click was to get into Road Commuter mode not programming mode!

A photo a 1000 words.









^ this be fix from A.L.L - Switch mount for Gloworm Lights send to UK think I ask that before.









Hits underside of light to tilled down









Hits top tilled down


















Cable in the way, If I mount light middle on bars the bean is straight out then if I tilled down I get shadows from cables.

Feed back design on mount think should be cut ins were rubber band goes like on a Magicshine or Clone of a MS as it every easy for band to fall off as I found out, Spent time trying to find on carpark floor. The O Ring mount is only 34mm high but is obviously less less clearance were light screw into light.

This also will be fixed with a QR mount I hope wound the rise on QR.


























As said battery great small light very long life & light very bright.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

S&L,

Industrial Strength Velcro should stick to that



Smoke&Lasers said:


> A photo a 1000 words.


You need the "Official" GLoworm QR, or one of Jim's auxiliary mounts.











Smoke&Lasers said:


>


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Smoke&Lasers said:


> Thanks Action LED Lights & patski
> 
> Were I seem to move light front of stem hits back top or bottom of light, or the cables are in the way.
> 
> ...


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## Smoke&Lasers (Feb 22, 2014)

Mr Mole  I'll give that ago, till new mount turns up.

I have just bought a QR mount.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Smoke&Lasers said:


> ... I did read from Manual and on here I read double click was to get into Road Commuter mode not programming mode!...


Not entirely true, if the lamp is off, double click gets it into Commuter mode, but if the light is already on, double click turns it into programming mode. Quite a big difference...


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## Smoke&Lasers (Feb 22, 2014)

Most helpful 
We're did read that, or did find by practice?


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## NightOWL (Jul 30, 2006)

want a better UI? ... have booth tooth connectivity


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

Gents,

Manual here, programming starts on page 4, http://goo.gl/HRbKrF



PeterG said:


> Not entirely true, if the lamp is off, double click gets it into Commuter mode, but if the light is already on, double click turns it into programming mode. Quite a big difference...


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Smoke&Lasers said:


> Most helpful
> We're did read that, or did find by practice?


In the manual (Operation Chart)  and verified by practice (playing with the lamp for 5 minutes)


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

MrMole,

Very smart, that's thinking outside the box!



MRMOLE said:


> Because of the bend of your bar it looks to me that the only appropriate place to mount the light is on the stem cap. Remove the cap and bars and slide 2 retention bands over the stem.
> 
> Mole
> View attachment 932169


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

Smoke&Laser, One of your pictures above shows the battery held on only by the loop on the battery case. That's not the intended way and probably doomed to failure. The strap should go all the way around the battery. The loop is to stop it from sliding out from under the strap. There also is a piece of sticky back foam tape in your set to put on the battery to protect it and your bike.


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## Gloworm Manufacture (Nov 29, 2011)

Hey Smoke&Lasers

Sorry if I missed your communication. I have sent you a PM.

@All

Although we try to design a product that fits most bikes/application it is impossible to get a mounting system that will do all.

We are always trying to come up with ideas to better our products and all feedback we get is taken on board and considered when improvements are made.

We are currently going through a period of consolidation and working on small improvements so you can be assured there will be no significant changes to the current models that will affect overall performance.

There was a comment regarding UI or User Interface. This is always going to be a trade off between simplicity and functionality. With one button, the more functional the product becomes the more complicated the UI will be. We are running through ideas/options, but be assured nothing will be changed within the next 9-12 months.

Cheers

Bruce and Vag
Gloworm


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

patski said:


> MrMole,
> 
> Very smart, that's thinking outside the box!


Thanks! - It's always nice to be able to contribute.

Mole


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Gloworm Manufacture said:


> .... We are running through ideas/options, but be assured *nothing will be changed within the next 9-12* months.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> ...


That's perfect, otherwise I would regret I don't have the latest version .


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## Smoke&Lasers (Feb 22, 2014)

Maybe with the UI what mode in, lights on battery could flash twice.
Two lights lit = Commuter 
Three light lit = Trail 

-------
Hi Gloworm Manufacture Bruce & Co 

I sent another email today. I did send one by clicking on your profile mtbr.com and different one direct. 

I made this yesterday for my switch as not worth A.L.L time to send mount to UK. I also ordered a QR mount.

Thanks all


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## pabcor (Aug 25, 2011)

I think it is the best solution.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

Smoke&Lasers said:


> I made this yesterday for my switch as not worth A.L.L time to send mount to UK. I also ordered a QR mount. Thanks all


Very cool, post photo of it on your bars.... nice to have lot's of ChinoisCrap® in the bottom drawer, eh?


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## Smoke&Lasers (Feb 22, 2014)

A photo in daylight may be better 

I'v picked the glue off as I glued the rubber band in no need for that. Mount can go more the right once I the shifter off and tuck rubber band under.

Once QR mount delivered see were best to place switch.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Smoke&Lasers said:


> Maybe with the UI what mode in, lights on battery could flash twice.
> Two lights lit = Commuter
> Three light lit = Trail


Two flashes mean entering the programming mode. You can check the mode so after switching on you press the button 3 times with some delay between and check, in how many steps the light output changes.



Smoke&Lasers said:


> ...
> 
> I made this yesterday for my switch as not worth A.L.L time to send mount to UK. I also ordered a QR mount.


Have you noticed 
DIY switch handlebar mount posted earlier?


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## TechniKal (Mar 18, 2004)

Is the low battery flash warning a cycle of 5-7 high/low "flutters" with a few second pause between cycles?

I'm running an X2 V3.1 and had the 'flutter' kick in after about an hour of running the light on high. I'm using good batteries - Gemini and Magichine 5600mah ones. I also added one of the magicshine 818 tail lights running off the same battery, so I imagine that extra draw is causing the voltage to drop low enough to kick off the low battery warning early.

Assuming that's the case, would moving to a 6 cell battery pack resolve the problem, or do I need a different kind of 4 cell pack?


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

TechniKal said:


> Is the low battery flash warning a cycle of 5-7 high/low "flutters" with a few second pause between cycles?
> 
> I'm running an X2 V3.1 and had the 'flutter' kick in after about an hour of running the light on high. I'm using good batteries - Gemini and Magichine 5600mah ones. I also added one of the magicshine 818 tail lights running off the same battery, so I imagine that extra draw is causing the voltage to drop low enough to kick off the low battery warning early.
> 
> Assuming that's the case, would moving to a 6 cell battery pack resolve the problem, or do I need a different kind of 4 cell pack?


The flutter your discribing is the low voltage warning. It reacts to voltage at the light which could be different than at the battery if your running through an extension cable or the connections are bad. But assuming that's not the problem then I need to ask how long the light runs after warning you? If it's 30 minutes or more then I'd say the battery has capacity but can't keep up with the load. The tail light would add to the problem even in flash mode. A 6 cell pack or higher capacity pack would help.


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## TechniKal (Mar 18, 2004)

On the ride tonight, it the light lasted at least another 20 mins on high after I first noticed the flash. The light never died - I just happened to finish the trail at that point and switched back to low for the road commute home. I am running an extension cable as the light is on the helmet, and using the y-connector for the taillight - so lots of connections along the way.

I'll experiment without the tail light and see how that impacts the run time. The magicshine is nice, but I've had complaints from riding buddies about it being too bright. I can save it for the rare longer road commute and go back to a self contained flasher for normal rides...


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## TechniKal (Mar 18, 2004)

Definitely seem to be related to the extra draw from the MJ-818 taillight. Running without the taillight, I got ~2:40 on high with no flashing out of the same battery pack that was flashing ~0:45 before.


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

Who is using dual X2's (1 on the bars and 1 on the helmet), and how does it work for you? 

I'm considering these setups:
1) dual X2 lights
2) X2 on bars and X1 on helmet
3) or going with Dinotte instead of Gloworm

Thoughts?


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

I'm using X2 on bars and X1 on helmet. I personally would not want another X2 on helmet - I feel the X1 punches further down the trail than the x2 and is a better helmet light. It provides an excellent compliment to the X2's slightly wider (even with 2 super spot optics loaded in X2) beam pattern. I'm sure 2 X2's would be great but the X1/X2 combo is really a spectacular mix.


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

bad andy said:


> I'm using X2 on bars and X1 on helmet. I personally would not want another X2 on helmet - I feel the X1 punches further down the trail than the x2 and is a better helmet light. It provides an excellent compliment to the X2's slightly wider (even with 2 super spot optics loaded in X2) beam pattern. I'm sure 2 X2's would be great but the X1/X2 combo is really a spectacular mix.


Thanks, this is useful advice. Do you not feel the X1 is underpowered when trying to look down the trail? How's the beam pattern on the X1? And you are using 2 spot optics on the X2? Because I was wondering if anyone was using 2 flood optics instead on the bars, and how that might work.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Underpowered? Not at all. I actually feel the X1 throws light further down the trail. The light is more concentrated, and appears "brighter" against any given object in my field of view. The trade-off being the X1's beam pattern is simply not as wide as the X2's, so there is not as much peripheral view/spill from the X1. That's why I feel they work together so well. X2 for flood/spill, and X1 for throw/punch.

Also, my X2 is loaded with 2 spots, to gain as much throw as possible from the unit, yet the X1 still throws light further.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Wish I Were Riding said:


> Thanks, this is useful advice. Do you not feel the X1 is underpowered when trying to look down the trail? How's the beam pattern on the X1? And you are using 2 spot optics on the X2? Because I was wondering if anyone was using 2 flood optics instead on the bars, and how that might work.


Flood optics on this light don't work. I've had 2 light-heads (one s/s, one f/f) side by side and there was no detectable difference in beam width, the s/s light was just a little brighter and had more throw.
Mole


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

MRMOLE said:


> Flood optics on this light don't work. I've had 2 light-heads (one s/s, one f/f) side by side and there was no detectable difference in beam width, the s/s light was just a little brighter and had more throw.
> Mole


Good to know, thanks.


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

Currently working on a replacment lens with flood beam options for the XS. I got this one done earlier but ruined it while trying to polish out the machining marks and make it crystal clear again. Trying again as I type. If anyone knows a way to polish plastic with groves I'm all ears.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

RojoRacing53 said:


> Currently working on a replacment lens with flood beam options for the XS. I got this one done earlier but ruined it while trying to polish out the machining marks and make it crystal clear again. Trying again as I type. If anyone knows a way to polish plastic with groves I'm all ears.
> 
> View attachment 939018


Wow! Looking forward to hearing how it works. Is that going to mount externally? My XS light-head should arrive tomorrow or Monday and I ordered a couple of Actions wide-angle lenses to experiment with. I plan to cut down the lens to cover the middle optic, drill holes to match the bolt pattern on the bezel and attach externally with longer screws. I'll post pics when done.
Mole


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

If you guys what to follow along with the wide angle lens project then head over to the XS thread because I toss it all over there since I'm working with an XS for now. I'll consider a X2 version if this gets some good feedback. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/gloworm-xs-you-getting-one-885521-11.html#post11578126


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

RojoRacing53 said:


> Currently working on a replacment lens with flood beam options for the XS. I got this one done earlier but ruined it while trying to polish out the machining marks and make it crystal clear again. Trying again as I type. If anyone knows a way to polish plastic with groves I'm all ears.
> 
> View attachment 939018


Wow! Absolutely amazing. Don't know if I'd want to put one of these on one of the Gloworms but I'd love to try one of those on one of the Solarstorm X2-X3 or XT40.
Looks like I'll have to follow that thread a bit more to see how these turn out.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

I have just received my new X2 v3with the new style gopro detachable bracket, I must say for the high cost of the light I am a little surprised how cheap the bracket material looks! I am a little worried that this will get busted very quickly! The slot where the elastic strap feed through have very thin edges! Any feed back from any one who have been using the new mount. The small foot print of the bracket is giving me problem to secure the bracket on my Recon661 helmet, this appear to wobble as I don't want to pull to hard on the strap in fear of breaking the mount! Apart from that this look great so far, plenty of lumens, your help will be appreciated


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## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

I just got mine today and sort of scratched my head at the helmet mount too.

I am thinking of using the handlebar mount on the helmet like this. Seems pretty solid


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

I got mine secured with zip ties on the visor, not ideal, I have left my solarstorm x2 on it for a very quick beam and brightness level check up in my back garden, first quick impression on it, there is not a lot in it for the huge difference in price BUT one should not forget that for money, you get a lot more as well as quality from Gloworm! 
Still now that I have both, it will be interesting to make a direct comparison!
The fixing is temporary as well as all the cables !


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Looks designed for it!


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## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

Skyraider59 said:


> The fixing is temporary as well as all the cables !


God I hope so, because that's a hot mess! 

I am also debating the position, between


Higher on the helmet. Pros: better weight balance and less neck strain
Lower in the front. Pros: less likely to get whacked by a tree.

I'm leaning toward higher, and just remember to tip my head sideways when going under obstacles.


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## TechniKal (Mar 18, 2004)

I ordered mine a month or two ago, so maybe the design had changed, but mine has a very robust metal bracket for helmet mounting. There was a plastic quick release mount, but I have a dedicated night riding helmet so I never looked at it much.

On weight distribution, the light is so light I don't notice it at all mounted low on the front of the helmet. Only counter balance I have is a small led rear light.

I've been very pleased with mine so far. Great light output. Nice, compact mount. Handles the heat better than other small light options I've tried. It is expensive compared to the cheapest Chinese stuff, but still a lot cheaper than what we were paying for lights twice the size and half the output a few years back, and I do enough night riding year round to feel like it's a very cheap investment to add a ton of riding time to my life.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Thanks for you feedback, the one I got is their latest version 2015. The Gopro style bracket maybe ok,but the plastic to me look cheap, I may be totally wrong and time will tell! Like you, all the MTB'ing I do are evening ride and most of them in darkness as day are a little shorter here in the UK, despite the fact that I have ridden very happily  with high power single led flashlights for a very long time, I got some Solarstorm X2 couple of years ago 2 out of 3 sets had problems within a few days, one set has been very reliable, but this year i decided to treat myself to high end light to see what it is all about! Will send feed back on my experience next year and maybe a review if I get the time


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

GoPro mounts from Jim on Giro Xen. I used curved self-adhesive QR mount, the adhesive required some trimming to fit helmet shape.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Photos of my set for my first night ride with my GWX2,

still not happy with its position, I think I will have to make myself an adapter plate to the profile of my Recon helmet to get the light further back.


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

I also added helmet pictures from behind to my previous post.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Peter This is pretty neat, I am just a little concerned using self-adhesive mount, I ride mainly in the forest and there is a lot off low branches on our trails, on Friday night, I had my side mounted contour head cam wiped of its mounting by a low branch. I kind of fear that the sticky stuff is not going to be man enough.
I am also intrigued by your battery pack, can you tell us more


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

I had spare new Sanyo cells on hand, so I bought X1 and X2 lightheads only and I did 2-cell and 4-cell battery packs myself. 2-cell pack is for helmet mount (on the picture) with X1 lighthead, 4-cell pack is for X2 lighthead for bike use. Battery packs have JST service connector to balance each cell during charging with programmable RC battery charger that also allows to charge the battery as quickly as allowed in Sanyo cell datasheet. Service connector is also used for cell voltage monitoring during the ride, acoustic alarm is set to 20% of remaining battery capacity (the weakest cell), so the pack can be placed in the backpack or on the helmet and alarm is still hearable. The only downside is that I have to disconnect the voltage monitor/alarm from the battery if it's not in use due to the quiescent current (parasitic drain), but that's really not an issue .


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

PeterG said:


> I had spare new Sanyo cells on hand, so I bought X1 and X2 lightheads only and I did 2-cell and 4-cell battery packs myself. 2-cell pack is for helmet mount (on the picture) with X1 lighthead, 4-cell pack is for X2 lighthead for bike use. Battery packs have JST service connector to balance each cell during charging with programmable RC battery charger that also allows to charge the battery as quickly as allowed in Sanyo cell datasheet. Service connector is also used for cell voltage monitoring during the ride, acoustic alarm is set to 20% of remaining battery capacity (the weakest cell), so the pack can be placed in the backpack or on the helmet and alarm is still hearable. The only downside is that I have to disconnect the voltage monitor/alarm from the battery if it's not in use due to the quiescent current (parasitic drain), but that's really not an issue .


This is cool, I wish I could build such a set up, audible alarm, brilliant for an helmet light!!!!
I did look into buying just the X2 head from Action Led lights, but one posted to the UK the difference in price from a full kit here was not enough to do it, so I pulled the trigger on the kit, not disappointed as I have got a quality battery now


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Note: I have had issues with the V1 and V2 of Gloworm products. 

I wish I would have waited to buy Gloworm products until they perfected their wire selection. Cronic issues with cold weather use and wire insulation cracking/fraying wires has me sending my lights/batteries back in for service for the 4th time. The lights live on my helmet and bars, and its not like I am swapping them around constantly.

Jim @ Action LED has be AWESOME helping me out, but now considers my lights to be out of warranty. So another week of no riding and $40-50 for the repair and shipping. 

Sometimes is SUCKS to be an early adopter.


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## blackbean (Nov 20, 2012)

I developed a wire problem with my battery too. Jim fixed it free off charge. I thought that maybe I caused it even though I know not to pull on the wires. This is a pity to hear, especially for those who take the necessary care to treat there equipment properly.


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

You make it sound like gloworm "HAS" at this point perfected their wiring. If you've sent your units in for repair Jim should be hooking you up with the latest wires so your no worse off then those of us buying now. Gloworms wire setup is far from perfect when compared to other high end lights but they are on the right track. Here are a few improvements is like to see. 

1. longer Cable, yes longer and I'll keep repeating myself until they are long enough to reach my thumb without stressing the Y junction. 

2. Get rid of the Y junction and go to two seperate cables out of the unit, ether from the same port or two ports like the battery on the rear and button on the side. The short cables and Y create a weak point that is bound to fail eventually. 

3. Higher quality cables maybe a little thicker and more flexable housing. I made my own cables with 100+ stand 22ga wires and high quality shrink wrap. The end result was nearly identical what what you see on Lupine lights. Unfortunately when I tried wilding the new wire to the board I burnt something on the board out and paper weighted my light. I think next time I'll try and get a pro to solder on my cable so I don't **** it up. 

I did a 12hr race this past weekend which included about 2.5hrs of darkness. I let three riders borrow and share my extra X2's for thier helmets and that super flood magicshine for the bars. Now they are all hooked and I have a group order going in next week for 3 sets of X2's and XS's. I think if gloworm started offering demos like night rider and others their product would catch on much faster. The biggest thing everyone liked was remote button mounted to the side of the helmet so they did have to reach way up top and chance moving the angle of the light. Now gloworm needs to step up their game and match their cable quality to the the rest of thier unit.


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

Skyraider59 said:


> Peter This is pretty neat, I am just a little concerned using self-adhesive mount, I ride mainly in the forest and there is a lot off low branches on our trails, on Friday night, I had my side mounted contour head cam wiped of its mounting by a low branch. I kind of fear that the sticky stuff is not going to be man enough.
> I am also intrigued by your battery pack, can you tell us more


If you use real Gopro bases they come with a high end two side tape that if applied correctly and given 24hr to set will hold your light longer then the cheap plastic side mount. If you hit the light on anything the mount arm would break long before your ripped off the tape. You can even buy the same 3m tape in a 1" wide roll online and reuse your base plates again and again. There was even a modern marvels TV episode on how crazy strong that tape is and how they use it in extreme conditions to hold editor building panels on when they don't want screws showing.


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## blackbean (Nov 20, 2012)

RojoRacing53 said:


> ...The biggest thing everyone liked was remote button mounted to the side of the helmet so they did have to reach way up top and chance moving the angle of the light...


That is one of the main advantages that separates Gloworm from the rest. This alone is enough reason for me not to really bother with other lights. Once you try it, you are hooked by the simplicity and comfort. It's a winner.

I think Gloworm might be promoting at races in NZ. Hopefully they can get the necessary resources or infrastructure in place (not much needed to get this off the ground I think) to promote it here in the US. They can become pretty big and successful if they do. They need more presence at races.


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

blackbean said:


> That is one of the main advantages that separates Gloworm from the rest. This alone is enough reason for me not to really bother with other lights. Once you try it, you are hooked by the simplicity and comfort. It's a winner.
> 
> I think Gloworm might be promoting at races in NZ. Hopefully they can get the necessary resources or infrastructure in place (not much needed to get this off the ground I think) to promote it here in the US. They can become pretty big and successful if they do. They need more presence at races.


I thought about approaching them about setting up a demo tent at the several 12hr and 24hr races I do a year. Then after more thought I realized as a solo racer myself I just would have the time to man the station. The best I could do is provide some setup support and advice to the riders as well as promote the product on the top step of the podium. I also take part in a ton of weekly night rides so if they gave me a couple extra lightsets a to loan out to new riders and others with inferior lights they'd probably turn around and buy their own gloworms after getting hooked. That's basically what happened this weekend. The people I ride with know my reputation for going fast at night and know I only run products I believe are the best, so after a single demo they all want what I have.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

RojoRacing53 said:


> You make it sound like gloworm "HAS" at this point perfected their wiring. If you've sent your units in for repair Jim should be hooking you up with the latest wires so your no worse off then those of us buying now. Gloworms wire setup is far from perfect when compared to other high end lights but they are on the right track.


Yes, I should have used "improved" instead. Jim simply stated it was "much better".

What I don't understand is why it seams like strain reliefs are a thing of the past. Why?


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## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

I see 2 improvements to the lights:
1/ To use the cables with silicone type insulation (more flexible and cold resistant);
2/ To use button battery powered wireless remote control, which allows to control either one or more (at least two) paired lightheads simultaneously. That would be perfect!

2/ is more important to me than 1/.


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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

RojoRacing53 said:


> If you use real Gopro bases they come with a high end two side tape that if applied correctly and given 24hr to set will hold your light longer then the cheap plastic side mount. If you hit the light on anything the mount arm would break long before your ripped off the tape. You can even buy the same 3m tape in a 1" wide roll online and reuse your base plates again and again. There was even a modern marvels TV episode on how crazy strong that tape is and how they use it in extreme conditions to hold editor building panels on when they don't want screws showing.


We have after market adhesive mounts that come with 3M double stick foam tape. 
For these or the velcro pads be sure to clean the area with alcohol before mounting.


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