# Cost for LBS to bleed Hayes brakes



## PE395 (Oct 29, 2007)

Hello,

What should I expect to pay to have a local shop bleed my Hayes 9 hydraulic brakes? Never had discs before. In the future I'll probably DIY, but don't want to deal with it right now. Just the rear brake. 

Thanks.


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## Goobs (Jan 16, 2007)

*I had the same thoughts today as well...*

Not trying to steal the thread, but I thought it was ironic that I was thinking the same question earlier today-- Here's why-

Today, I tried to bleed my Hayes 9 for the first time (first time I worked on hydraulic brakes). Earlier today I considered myself a pretty competent amateur bike mechanic, but now my ego has been knocked down a few notches.... After doing a lot of research (internet and a few different manuals I own), I really thought I was ready to go... Things started a little rough, and ended a lot worse as I screwed up the seal on the master cylinder. Now, it will no longer hold fluid-- it oozes out when the lever is depressed (why do the make that stupid little plastic cap for the MC?!?!?) So, after considering entirely scrapping my Hayes brakes in favor of some Juicy 7's I calmed down a bit, and found the replacement part on the internet and ordered it. So in a few days, I will fix the master cylinder, but I think I will take it to the LBS for the fill and bleed... So, what is a normal price for a bleed service?


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## grandsalmon (Oct 24, 2005)

for both of pre post re hayes brake bleeding-
don't give up...my friend, and several others, are not the most mechanically inclined but have the procedure of bleeding hayes down pat. i service the MCs if need be too.
to the question of bleed service by LBS, mine does for 65 a wheel, which is way too high in my opinion and is the only knock against the shop.
since it takes about 30 mins. to do both, i would consider 40 bucks _the most_ a shop should charge for one wheel- really.


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## PE395 (Oct 29, 2007)

A question for when I do try to tackle this. (Gonna have to learn for breakdowns on the trail) I've seen nothing but complaints about the Hayes bleed kit, that the little bottle is crap, etc. Any of you MacGuyver's have an ingredient list and specs if I want to build a bleed kit on my own, and where to get the syringes, etc?

Thanks again. And yeah, $60 seems steep. I wonder if they make you buy the kit, then charge labor on top to use it.


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

The Hayes bleeding kit sucks...I'm a former mechanic and I use the Alligator Universal Bleed kit and DOT 4 fluid purchased at any auto parts store on my HFX 9's

Bleeding the HFX 9's is a 15 minute per wheel job...not much to them...though the little plastic plug is admittedly crappy. I keep a few spares around.


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## PE395 (Oct 29, 2007)

Damn, that kit is way more pulled together than the Hayes one for about the same price. Thanks for the link. Nice sig, BTW.


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## Goobs (Jan 16, 2007)

Grand Salmon-- Thanks for the info, much appreciated!

MtBiker72: Great scoop on the bleed kit-- I pieced one together based on a thread I recently read on another post (search Hayes Bleed Kit), plus from a google search. Mine altogether cost about $10, but since I had to drive to a few different stores, I would have definitely bought the alligator kit instead (in fact I may still....). Thanks!!


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## mtbsince1981 (May 20, 2007)

If you're spending more than 10 minutes bleeding a brake you're doing something wrong. 

R


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## anirban (Apr 20, 2006)

PE395 said:


> Hello,
> 
> What should I expect to pay to have a local shop bleed my Hayes 9 hydraulic brakes? Never had discs before. In the future I'll probably DIY, but don't want to deal with it right now. Just the rear brake.
> 
> Thanks.


My LBS charges $20 for each brake. I consider this to be outrageously expensive for something that is very simple to do at home, with a couple of simple tools.


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## RedBlueGreen (Aug 22, 2007)

To add my perspective *PE395*, I'd buy the Alligator bleed kit and learn how to do the bleed yourself. It'll be way cheaper in the long run and you'll become more knowledgeable as a result. Excellent 

I'm sure it pays to be extra extra careful though with your seals and threads as *Goobs* found out. I think my main concern would be to make sure no DOT fluid went on my bike's paint. It strips it doesn't it? Fortunately for me Magura brakes use mineral oil instead.

On my Magura Louise's the Master Cylinder covers are held on by tiny T7 torx screws...They're very easy to over tighten if not careful.


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## RedBlueGreen (Aug 22, 2007)

Oooops multiple post...sorry.
Is there a way to delete multiple posts? I don't seem to be able to find out how. Thanks.


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## RedBlueGreen (Aug 22, 2007)

I hope my bleed technique's better than my posting ability


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

I will ad that it is also wise to remove brake pads during bleeding to avoid contamination. Most sintered pads can be "resurected" if you do contaminate them, but its easier just to remove them. And yes...clean up is essentual for systems using DOT fluid (Hayes, Avid, Formula, Hope) as it will strip paint quite efficiently.


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

opps


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

Click

Does this one work well for Avids?
CDT


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## OhSchitt (Jan 4, 2006)

CdaleTony said:


> Click
> 
> Does this one work well for Avids?
> CDT


Yes, I have used this kit. Read the instructions completely through first, before attempting anything on the bike, is the best advice I can give on this. Once you've done it and familiarized yourself with the steps, it's fairly straight forward.

I did it on my own bike, and helped a friend do it on his. Second time around, it only took a few minutes out of our lunch break to get it done.


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

OhSchitt said:


> Yes, I have used this kit. Read the instructions completely through first, before attempting anything on the bike, is the best advice I can give on this. Once you've done it and familiarized yourself with the steps, it's fairly straight forward.
> 
> I did it on my own bike, and helped a friend do it on his. Second time around, it only took a few minutes out of our lunch break to get it done.


Thanks for the reply, I had forgotten about this post. I am now searching for the best deal on carbons or ultimates for my hardtail.
CDT


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## Work (Oct 14, 2007)

wow, 60 bucks a wheel? i'm glad my LBS has this thing that if i buy the bike from them i get free adjustments on that bike for life. Although i've never had hydraulic brakes, they said it covers anything on the bike, and so far its always been true.


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## RideFaster (Dec 18, 2004)

$20-25 / wheel.


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## natrab (May 28, 2007)

I'm having an ordeal with my rear hayes stroker brake. I bled the front brake just fine (using the crappy hayes kit). I bled the rear and it felt fine until after about a half hour of riding it lost all power. I bled it again following the updated hayes instructions...same thing happened.

I finally said screw it and took it in to my LBS (where they use an alligator type kit) and paid the $25 to have them do it. Low and behold the rear brake loses power again the day after they bled it. Now the rear brake was working fine before I cut the line (stupid me I tapped the lever and introduced air into the system, requiring a bleed). Now I have to take it back to my LBS and get them to try and fix it. These are a real PITA and I've had an easier time bleeding avids. However, these are the best modulating brakes I've ever had and I love em.

Anyone have tips on getting a good bleed on the strokers?


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## derby (Jan 12, 2004)

$10 is what Sunshine Bikes in Fairfax, CA charged me when I came in with a missing Hayes HFX-9 lever bleed plug and had lost my front brake on a ride. They didn't have a plug in stock so the mechanic stuck a shift cable end aluminum crimp cap into the lever's bleed hole. They spent about 10 minutes maybe 15. I thought that was a very good deal. They could have charged $20 and I would have thought that a fair charge per brake.

It could be that the higher charges I see in other posts above include other some brake adjusting and test riding time. Sometimes needed is caliper piston cleaning, seal replacement, alignment, and rotor truing which can be a long and tedious process.


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