# Stupid pictures of bike crap. Stupid bikes. Geaaaaaaaaaaw!!!!



## BungedUP (Aug 18, 2003)

I haven't made a bike for myself in a while, and I've been meaning to for even longer. Here are some pictures from the beginning. I'll post more as time goes on. It's nothing very exciting. Really.

Machining little parts.








Parting little parts.








More little parts.








Parting shot of little parts.


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## BungedUP (Aug 18, 2003)

Little tool for attaching the frog spectacles as my wife calls 'em.









I have previously usually worked where there was a Gas Fluxer, or has access to a friend's (still do, but didn't want to bother with leaving the house today). I brazed sans inline fluxer, but have decided I'm going to make one pretty soon. Shouldn't be any big deal.









After soaking, prior to cleanup. Turned out ok - not as nice as with an inline fluxer, but you work with what you've got.


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## BungedUP (Aug 18, 2003)

Lining up the shot.








After drilling.








Slotting.








Froggy finished!


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## shirk (Mar 24, 2004)

Dang that is a beauty seat binder.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Love the big relief hole, Peter.
Good looking work.


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## Clockwork Bikes (Jun 17, 2006)

Really nice. Keep the pics coming.


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## Eric Malcolm (Dec 18, 2011)

Peter

I am following with interest as I am right into Seat clamp joinery. 

Really cool, it appears that you have used some form of bronze for the bolt head seat and nut, do I see that correctly?

Eric


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## bryan_d (Mar 16, 2009)

Wow!

Will the huge relief hole be facing towards the rear wheel? If it is that will be one effective crud catcher.

Great job.
Bryan


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## dbhammercycle (Nov 15, 2011)

subscribed with popcorn.


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## todwil (Feb 1, 2007)

Saaaaaaweeeeeeeett!!!


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## thedudeman (Nov 10, 2006)

Is the top of the seat tube done with a hole saw? Thanks for sharing- really enjoy seeing your work 

Scott


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## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

bryan_d said:


> Will the huge relief hole be facing towards the rear wheel? If it is that will be one effective crud catcher.


If I'm interpreting it correctly, the hole would face the front of the bike, when the seatpost is loaded it'll be stressing the more solid side of the tube (while possibly relieving some stress on the bolt given it is forward facing?).

Looks hot. I've had some lingering questions about other parts of a frame that might need replaceable threaded points. Awesome work!


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## BungedUP (Aug 18, 2003)

Hi Eric,

The nuts are brass. I had some laying around and it became victim to this project! I was toying with the idea of using some copper scrap too - knowing that it would begin to gain some color over time and gain some "character." I've really wanted to try using materials that age and change over time, but decided against it this time. I'm not sure why.

To the other speculation about the direction of the hole in the seat tube, I really enjoyed people's thoughts about that. It'll face the tire, and collect all kinds of debris, without doubt. I don't think I'll mind. I've got a dropper post that's going in there, so it's unlikely to need to be moved around much. If it starts to bug me, well, I'll have learned my lesson and there's more tubes hanging around I can do something with...

Here's a little more progress:

Dials.








Ghetto 4th axis.








It's something?








Selfie with my visual aid (magnifying goggles)... These are so dorky I had to photograph me wearing them. My wife laughs at me every time she sees them, and my daughter wants to wear them and run around the house. Personally, I love 'em!








I think it's an ashtray.


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## BungedUP (Aug 18, 2003)

Ok, maybe not an ashtray. Lovejoy coupler perhaps?








Oh I get it - it's definitely a light saber.








Yep - that's where the on/off buttons go.








That headtube looks awfully high - is that really right? These 29er frames with suspension forks are WEIRD!


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## NorseRider (Feb 9, 2004)

Great work, and great tread. Looking forward to follow the progress on the frame.

Cheers,

Truls
Johnsen Frameworks
Hølen, Norway


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## BungedUP (Aug 18, 2003)

Thanks Truls!

I see you live in Norway - My grandfather's family was from near Vik, off of Arnafjord. When their family came to the mid-western U.S., they took the name of the farm in Norway that they came from - Bungum (or Bungane as it is also referenced as). My grandmother's family was from closer to Oslo (where I see you town is closer to), though I don't know exactly where, though my father might. Anyhow, I'm planning to visit Norway someday, though I hear it is quite expensive, so I'm saving up long term.

Here's a little more progress:

I don't know if I can cope with this...








Think that down tube is inset enough???








These 33.5mm seat tubes don't stay the same size. Thank goodness that they aren't either 1 1/4 or 1 5/16", but somewhere in between...








I think I'll just ride it using the clamp to hold things in place.








I was going to try and make a bike without any curves. I just couldn't quite do it.


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## golden boy (Oct 29, 2008)

Looking good. Can't wait to see how this turns out.


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## NorseRider (Feb 9, 2004)

Right, Peter. Your surename sort of gave it away. I assume you've seen this picture from the farm? Bilete: Bungane / Bungum gnr.50, Arnafjord, Vik i Sogn kommune.

Let me know if you're planning to a trip over the pond. There are ways to keep a sensible budget even when travelling to Norway. Like staying with friends.

Keep up the good work and keep in touch!

Truls


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## Eric Malcolm (Dec 18, 2011)

And...........................there is more progress?

Eric


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## thedudeman (Nov 10, 2006)

Bump- still looking forward to the welding rod comparo as well. Happy new year!
Scott


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## BungedUP (Aug 18, 2003)

Hey guys,

Sorry I've sort of fallen off the face of the earth here...

I've been in the midst of a flurry of regular work, fabrication jobs, family time, and a major machine repair (mechanical repairs + bearing replacement throughout lathe drivetrain, as well as new spindle bearings for the 10ee). I'll be getting back to things after a bit though I may have some other projects get in the way in between now and then.

I did get the whole shebang tacked together, but ran into a rookie issue that I shouldn't have (which I knew ahead of time was potentially problematic). I froze a slapdash heat sink in the seat tube, and then proceeded to wreck the seat tube getting it out. I could repair it, but will end up just starting over. I had some other things I thought about doing differently anyways. I'm not particularly upset by it - I was uncharacteristically cavalier about using something I full well knew was insufficient for the task, and wasn't surprised when it went badly. I definitely laughed at myself for the mistake (I used steel liner which I essentially ended up spot welding in place - D'oh!) Anyhow, I do have a few pictures of what I'd been putting together.

-Peter


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Wow.


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## maximusmountain (Jan 4, 2015)

Any close ups of that chainstay jig? Hoping to make one myself over the summer.

Rest of the work looks lovely!


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## PithyBikes (Dec 30, 2014)

A 6 jaw chuck to hold your hole saw arbor.. you don't mess around.  Amazing work!


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## BungedUP (Aug 18, 2003)

Alright. Fix lathe, check. Get new water heater, check. Start bike over, check. Make a new tool to prevent future stupidity, check.

I've made some progress, and everything is going nicely. I'm glad I started over TBH.








Monarch 10ee lathe spindle, in case you've always wanted to see one balancing on a 2x4.








Toilet paper tube holder. Or something.








Centering.








Making a "gusset." Most will probably be familiar with one of these tube orienting devices. Allows for removing the tube from a fixture, and then reorienting back to a set angular position. Note super awesome level. I have others, but this one scaled about right.








Cutting some stays.


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## TrailMaker (Sep 16, 2007)

Pretty Snaz, Peter;

You're a brave man, taunting Murphy like that with that standing spindle.

I use this rig. I still manage to knock if off occasionally, but if I am even remotely aware and careful, it works very well.


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## shirk (Mar 24, 2004)

Those seatstays are rad. Somehow I missed that detail the first time.


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## CuddlyToast (Oct 30, 2013)

gosh, thats purdy.


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## ktm520 (Apr 21, 2004)

Very nice! Can you post some pics of how you shaped/welded the tip of the dt gusset?


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## BungedUP (Aug 18, 2003)

Hi KTM - you mean show what only the end of the gusset looks like ? I didn't so much shape the gusset as cut it out - the shape is mostly just due to the natural curvature after coping. Because the angle to cut it out was so shallow (20° IIRC), I did need to do a little shaping just to establish the edge, but it's mostly just the natural shape . I can try to take and post a picture showing the as-welded gusset, but I don't have more of just the bare gusset itself (I don't think). I'll try to follow up with a photo sometime - feel free to bug me about it if I forget.


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## tim300wsm (May 14, 2011)

Very impressive work. It speaks volumes about your skill.


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## ktm520 (Apr 21, 2004)

Bunged up, yes, sorry for being vague. I'm curious to see a pic of the tip (where it joins to the circumference of dt, aft end) as welded. Did you weld the seem around the circumference of the dt? Seems to be some controversy on how to do gussets like this.


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## kazlx (Jun 13, 2005)

Very nice.

+points for Deckel and Monarch 10EE


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## bikecycology (Apr 26, 2010)

Parting shot of little parts.
View attachment 936182
[/QUOTE]

Peter, Do you have any thoughts on selling a setup like this? Real nice design.

Thanks, Wil


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## Jacob Eplin (Aug 24, 2013)

Love the tiny parts and one off machining, also really like the socket style seat stays with welds to the seat post for strength.


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## BungedUP (Aug 18, 2003)

Thanks for the comment.

I wasn't planning on making those to sell, though I'm not categorically opposed to it either. That sort of stuff is time consuming to do in small quantities, so it is unlikely to be very cost effective for me, or cost effective for anyone wanting to purchase something like that in small numbers. For the right price and/or project though (like something going into space, being used to cross the ocean, incorporated into the next supercomputer, saving the universe, etc.), I'd certainly think about it! 

-Peter



bikecycology said:


> Parting shot of little parts.
> View attachment 936182


Peter, Do you have any thoughts on selling a setup like this? Real nice design.

Thanks, Wil[/QUOTE]


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## BungedUP (Aug 18, 2003)

Form for dimpling. This was made with Devcon epoxy, such that it fits the outer shape of the chainstay. The outer section is just some thick walled tube from a fabrication job. Saves the time of measuring for coordinates, and then milling the shape, or of guessing and shaping with wood. Form left no marks, and allowed good dimpling on the inside.








Bottom of "gusset" (not really a gusset, per se, more of a DT extension) for KTM. Sorry I'm so slow to respond!








Braze-on. I had to grind the bejeebus out of those things prior to brazing to clean them up.








Bull-nose center I made from scrap. This was to be used with the 44mm HT reamer I made from a re-sharpened 44mm shell reamer (originally a 1.75"). I don't have a photo of that apparently. I can take one later. Shell reamer cost about $40 on eBay.
















My name on the DT will be changed. I'll probably just put my middle name on there (Olaf). Bungum is such a strange name to say that I think something easy like "Olaf" will work well. In the meantime, I have to have something on there. Luckily, paint pen wipes off of powdercoat with some solvent, but stays on nicely otherwise.
















Elder Futhark inscription. It's a rune, so it's a semi-secret, just for me. As sort of a weird aside, my daughter's name is Runa, which comes from the same root.


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## ktm520 (Apr 21, 2004)

As always, amazing work! Thanks for the ht-dt pic.


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## A. Spence (Sep 25, 2009)

Peter,

any special prep you had to do to the tube in order to get the epoxy to release when you made that dimpling form?

Thanks.


Alistair.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Gorgeous work, man.


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## BungedUP (Aug 18, 2003)

Allistair - I just wrapped the tube in some plastic wrap, so it was not directly bonding to the metal. The plastic wrap peeled off very easily as well. I pulled the form off after it had sat for a couple hours, but before it had cured completely. It's really easy to do, makes pretty much perfect form. I wish I had done something like this while at Bike Friday or Co-Motion; it's a marvelous way to do things. You could use it for building fixtures for weird shaped parts as well.


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## A. Spence (Sep 25, 2009)

Thanks Peter. This is one of those things that I have thought about trying in the past, but have never gotten around to. Partly because I figured that "it can't be that simple", and that for some reason it wouldn't work.

Thanks for sharing this tip.


Alistair.


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