# D.I.Y. Raw Finish (steel painted frame) ??



## CJones (Aug 3, 2004)

Have read the FAQ and the rest of the threads concerning this and still have a couple of questions.

This would be on a painted 853 steel tig welded frame that I'd like to strip, polish, and clear coat. I'd prefer to do everything myself at home and don't have access to a spray gun or a large oven (like Moose did). Want more of a cool looking "works" finish (inspiration for this is in the pic below) than something gleaming and pristine.

Will the paint stripper and scotchbrite pads make the rainbow haz marks in the weld zones disappear or are they embedded in the metal?

Can someone recommend a specific acetone to clean with before the clear?

Are there any decent clear coats that come in a rattle can that can air dry?

Read about a few people using lacquer as a clear coat? Any experience or opinions on this?

Do the decals work better in-between coats of clear or directly on the raw metal then clear?

Any other tips or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks a bunch!


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

CJones said:


> Have read the FAQ and the rest of the threads concerning this and still have a couple of questions.
> 
> This would be on a painted 853 steel tig welded frame that I'd like to strip, polish, and clear coat. I'd prefer to do everything myself at home and don't have access to a spray gun or a large oven (like Moose did). Want more of a cool looking "works" finish (inspiration for this is in the pic below) than something gleaming and pristine.
> 
> ...


The weld coloration is likely already gone from the prep for painting. You only get a "raw" finish if it has not been bluffed/blasted after welding.

What you are looking to do will in most cases result in an aged/weathered finish, aka rust.


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## jayfromqns (Jul 20, 2007)

I like your idea, although I haven't heard of clearcoats available in a rattle can. 
FYI, Rivendell sells a raw steel frame set that is clearcoated and I think it looks awesome: http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/bombadil/50-640


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## Arrak Thumrs (Oct 24, 2009)

For the record:
YES, i have rattle-canned with quality industrial paint in the past
YES, i properly stripped and cleaned the bare steel beforehand
YES, i finished with a rattle-can industrial Rustoleum clear-coat
YES, i let it sit for months to cure*
NO, it really didn't work. Before I even got all components installed, I knew this wasn't gonna last.

*haven't you ever noticed these paints---no matter in what temp./humidity you spray them--- don't reach full hardness for at least two months? No lie!

This may be one of those circumstances where it is in fact "harder than it looks". The Riv clearcoat is a new formula that is now not so rare that was designed with the intention of no base coat. I've heard tell they hold up to the claims. That said, they are still a powdercoat and still fully oven cured.


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## Schmitty (Sep 7, 2008)

You can get auto paint including clear put into a rattle can with or w/out hardener.

-Schmitty-

rustoleum sucks unless you are getting one of the industrial versions from an industry supplier.. there are many types of rustoleum.


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## Arrak Thumrs (Oct 24, 2009)

Okay. People always say that. :skep:

This is what I used: http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=95
This is what I top-coated: http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=166

If you have had worthwhile results, please specify an _exact_ product or trade identifier. :yesnod:


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## Linnaeus (May 17, 2009)

Rustoleum _does_ takes months to cure. But after it does, I think it makes a great product. You just need to know at the onset that it's going to be a while before it really gets hard.


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## Schmitty (Sep 7, 2008)

Check MSC. Auto paint can be put into a spray can at any specialty auto paint store. With hardener, it's cures very quickly (you actually need to use the cans w/in 24 hrs or it hardens in the can.

As far as Rustoleum curing times, it's as varied as their product line. Humidity plays a huge role. If it takes more than 3 days for it to cure to the touch (full cure takes much longer), something is wrong.

I use powder for my clears, and would never deviate...

-Schmitty-


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

The raw effect was removed when the bike was prepped for paint.

FYI, forget canned paint. Just take the bike to your local powder guy. They can do a real clear coat.


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