# through axle questions/time to upgrade?



## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

I have a Soma Bside (I think V4) in pumpkin orange. I built it back in 2015. I recently put a RockShox Recon gold fork on and bought the through axle end caps for my hope hub. I was recently considering putting a through axle on my rear hub and buying the slider plates from Soma for the 12x142. I could probably do this for not a lot of money but I'm torn if it's even worth doing on a bike of this age?

On another note my mind keeps wondering if it's not time to upgrade to a newer bike with more modern geometry. This bike and I have been on a lot of adventures.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

if the dropouts are the old IRD ones, I had a Juice that came with 135x10 sliders. I put Paragon Machine Works 142x12 sliders in it and a Hard Lite axle (check ebay if those are still around) in the frame. PMW will say that their sliders are not compatible with the IRD dropouts, but they work fine. because PWM designed their frame parts for their sliders, that makes sense but the dimensions are the same.

my Juice had these: 









not to make you paranoid, buy Soma mountain bikes have a reputation for breaking. I know someone who broke the seat- or chainstay at those dropouts. when he finally got a replacement frame under warranty from Soma, it did not take long for him to crack it at the head tube/ top tube junction. after seeing so many cracked Somas, I sold mine.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Yeah I've seen some of those reports about breakage. I probably don't ride this bike as frequently as a lot of people mountain bike and I probably don't put it anywhere near the stress that others do. I'm not an expert I just go trail ride. The only problem with buying a more modern frame, which I would love to do, is that I'd have to upgrade a lot of my components like the wheels and hubs. It would just get into a lot of money but maybe that's in the budget this year who knows. I don't want to spend a bunch of money and then not get enough use out of it and then feel like I wasted my money. If that makes sense? I mean so far this bike has done everything I've asked it to do But it is nice to have something different after enough years as well.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

For the rear axle/hub- to me it would depend on if you're keeping the bike/wheels longer term. If you're thinking about making a change this year I wouldn't bother, it's been like that for 6 years and you don't seem to have any gripe with the way it currently performs?

As far as a new frame- I understand the desire for something new and different after a while. If you were shopping for a new frame what would you want it to do differently/better than you current bike?


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

iowamtb said:


> The only problem with buying a more modern frame, which I would love to do, is that I'd have to upgrade a lot of my components like the wheels and hubs.


if the hubs are all that is holding you back, you can put spacers on the axle and rotor. I didn't want to use these at one point, but I did it anyways and it works fine.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

*OneSpeed* said:


> For the rear axle/hub- to me it would depend on if you're keeping the bike/wheels longer term. If you're thinking about making a change this year I wouldn't bother, it's been like that for 6 years and you don't seem to have any gripe with the way it currently performs?
> 
> As far as a new frame- I understand the desire for something new and different after a while. If you were shopping for a new frame what would you want it to do differently/better than you current bike?


I'm happy with the way my current bike performs. It's got a pretty short reach (425ish) and a short stem feels too short and it doesn't climb as good. Currently running an 80mm stem. I know modern bikes tend to have more reach. Through axles are just nice for wheel removal and replacement. A convenience.



mack_turtle said:


> if the hubs are all that is holding you back, you can put spacers on the axle and rotor. I didn't want to use these at one point, but I did it anyways and it works fine.


Hubs aren't holding me back. See my reply. Just through axles are nice when removing wheel.


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## Rod (Oct 17, 2007)

iowamtb said:


> I'm happy with the way my current bike performs. Through axles are just nice for wheel removal and replacement. A convenience.
> 
> 
> Hubs aren't holding me back. See my reply. Just through axles are nice when removing wheel.


In that case, go for it. You're happy with your bike, it's handled everything you've asked it to do thus far, has great parts (hope), and I would ride it until the wheels fall off. It has already easily paid for itself by now so this is just icing on the cake.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I don't that adding a thru-axle will make a substantial improvement. I had a 135x10 thru axle on my Hadley hub when I did that, and it was a lateral move.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Rod said:


> In that case, go for it. You're happy with your bike, it's handled everything you've asked it to do thus far, has great parts (hope), and I would ride it until the wheels fall off. It has already easily paid for itself by now so this is just icing on the cake.


I'm leaning towards this ^^^^^. I do like this bike. But you know so much eye candy out there. I've sold bikes before and kicked myself later. I would regret it most likely.


mack_turtle said:


> I don't that adding a thru-axle will make a substantial improvement. I had a 135x10 thru axle on my Hadley hub when I did that, and it was a lateral move.


What options are there? If I did go with a 135 through axle would I need new plates?


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

iowamtb said:


> What options are there? If I did go with a 135 through axle would I need new plates?


no, the 135x10 thru axle would have to fit the hub you have, and very few hubs allow for that option. it's basically a very long, solid axle that replaces the axle and skewer with one piece. mine had a nut on the end, so it fits in regular 10mm dropouts found on most bikes up until a few years ago. a hub with a 135x10 axle of any sort- nutted, thru-bolt, bolt-on, QR, etc should fit the dropouts you have.

I had a Stan's 3.30 hub at the time, which had replaceable endcaps to accommodate a 10mm thru axle. so I bought the end caps and a Hadley axle. later, I bought a Hadley hub and just chose the 10mm thru option. it fit in several frames I owned for a few years. then I got the 12mm-axle plates for my Juice and had to replace the Hadley axle with a 12mm internal axle as well. after that, i've owned a few 142x12 frames. then boost happened and all that feels like history now.


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## Dan Zulu (Jul 5, 2008)

I’m not a fan of using adapter gadgets on my bike to make things work in ways the bike wasn’t originally designed for. For many people those devices work fine. Just not my preference. 
Unlike some other recent trends in bicycle components I do think thru axles are a worthwhile upgrade. As a smaller Clyde I used to pop QR wheels out of dropouts during steep climbs. Thru axles solve that issue once and for all.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

mack_turtle said:


> no, the 135x10 thru axle would have to fit the hub you have, and very few hubs allow for that option. it's basically a very long, solid axle that replaces the axle and skewer with one piece. mine had a nut on the end, so it fits in regular 10mm dropouts found on most bikes up until a few years ago. a hub with a 135x10 axle of any sort- nutted, thru-bolt, bolt-on, QR, etc should fit the dropouts you have.
> 
> I had a Stan's 3.30 hub at the time, which had replaceable endcaps to accommodate a 10mm thru axle. so I bought the end caps and a Hadley axle. later, I bought a Hadley hub and just chose the 10mm thru option. it fit in several frames I owned for a few years. then I got the 12mm-axle plates for my Juice and had to replace the Hadley axle with a 12mm internal axle as well. after that, i've owned a few 142x12 frames. then boost happened and all that feels like history now.


Hope hubs should be upgradeable to various interfaces..I just fell in love with the of ease of through axles when I bought my Fargo. Alignment never changes


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

yeah, Hope hub with a 135x10 through axle or bolts would be nice. however, it still fits in a slotted dropout. it's not as precise as a frame designed around a thru axle. it would be nice, but mostly a lateral move. supposedly any sort of thru axle can stiffen up the rear end a bit, which could be an improvement. you might not really feel it except when you imagine that you do, though.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I think it's important to note that the 135x10 solutions mentioned here that fit into a regular dropout are NOT thru-axles. They are thru-bolts. A thru-axle actually uses a different dropout type.

For a hardtail frame, I don't think changing to a thru axle is going to make much of a difference if you don't have problems with what you're using now.

If buying a whole new bike, I'd probably consider a thru axle for it, but for the riding you describe, I don't think it's necessary. For the rear wheel, I don't find thru axles to be all that helpful for reinstalling the wheel as they are for the front. It's about equal, honestly. If you're riding harder, rougher stuff, then I think a thru axle in the back of a hardtail makes sense to stiffen things up, eliminate the possibility of the wheel slipping in the dropouts, that sort of thing.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Harold said:


> I think it's important to note that the 135x10 solutions mentioned here that fit into a regular dropout are NOT thru-axles. They are thru-bolts. A thru-axle actually uses a different dropout type.
> 
> For a hardtail frame, I don't think changing to a thru axle is going to make much of a difference if you don't have problems with what you're using now.
> 
> If buying a whole new bike, I'd probably consider a thru axle for it, but for the riding you describe, I don't think it's necessary. For the rear wheel, I don't find thru axles to be all that helpful for reinstalling the wheel as they are for the front. It's about equal, honestly. If you're riding harder, rougher stuff, then I think a thru axle in the back of a hardtail makes sense to stiffen things up, eliminate the possibility of the wheel slipping in the dropouts, that sort of thing.


I've been eyeing the DT Swiss skewers. Currently have my original build Hope QR skewer on the back. When I built this I thought it would be cool to have color matching the hubs. I've come to realize I hate those skewers. They cam over hard and release even harder. I love Shimano skewers but as my front is now 15x110 through with my fork upgrade, I don't want to buy a pair. I might check into this other option.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

iowamtb said:


> I've been eyeing the DT Swiss skewers. Currently have my original build Hope QR skewer on the back. When I built this I thought it would be cool to have color matching the hubs. I've come to realize I hate those skewers. They cam over hard and release even harder. I love Shimano skewers but as my front is now 15x110 through with my fork upgrade, I don't want to buy a pair. I might check into this other option.


I like DT RWS skewers/thru bolts. I've had them on several bikes.

If you can get the right end caps for your Hope hubs, then this is an easy change you can make.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Harold said:


> I think it's important to note that the 135x10 solutions mentioned here that fit into a regular dropout are NOT thru-axles. They are thru-bolts. A thru-axle actually uses a different dropout type.
> 
> For a hardtail frame, I don't think changing to a thru axle is going to make much of a difference if you don't have problems with what you're using now.


good call. I conflated the two terms. the thru-bolt I had in mind makes the rear wheel more difficult to remove, because you need a tool instead of a built-in lever. it does not change the alignment of the axle in the frame because it still slides into a slotted dropout, just like a QR. a true thru-axle system would be an integrated part of the frame. you should be able to put a pair of PMW sliders in a Soma and fit a 142x12 hub, or modify your axle to accept one. that's still going to make a marginal difference. I did the swap mostly because it just seemed cool instead of those "old" qr skewers.

I also mis-remembered going to 142x12 on my Juice. I rode with the 135x10 Hadley hub until I replaced that frame, which required that I move to a true 12mm thru-axle design. at that point, I had to just buy a new axle for the hub. a friend of mine, however, definitely put 142x12 PMW sliders on this Soma Wolverine, which used the same siding dropout system.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

mack_turtle said:


> good call. I conflated the two terms. the thru-bolt I had in mind makes the rear wheel more difficult to remove, because you need a tool instead of a built-in lever. it does not change the alignment of the axle in the frame because it still slides into a slotted dropout, just like a QR. a true thru-axle system would be an integrated part of the frame. you should be able to put a pair of PWM sliders in a Soma and fit a 142x12 hub, or modify your axle to accept one. that's still going to make a marginal difference. I did the swap mostly because it just seemed cool instead of those "old" qr skewers.


I don't mind cool so much or I'd have the latest and greatest lol.. I'm debating between 
1 End caps and a DT 10mm lever bolt
2 A DT skewer 
3 a Shimano skewer


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

iowamtb said:


> I don't mind cool so much or I'd have the latest and greatest lol.. I'm debating between
> 1 End caps and a DT 10mm lever bolt
> 2 A DT skewer
> 3 a Shimano skewer


among those three, I can't comment. I don't know if any of them will be a significant improvement. might be a good question to ask in the Wheels forum.


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