# Late 1980's Ross Mt. Bike Models - differences



## _BKK (May 2, 2006)

There was the Mt. Whitney, Mt Hood, Mt, Rainier and maybe others, I just don't know which was the low end and which was the high and what the differences were.

Most important to me are the differences between the Mt. Hood and the Mt. Rainier. This would be about 1985-86 when they had under chainstay mounted roller cam rear brakes and friction shifters. 

I would love to find/see an old catalog but any information would be much appreciated.

All the vintage websites seem to make mention of Ross bikes but I can't find any good info.


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## cegrover (Oct 17, 2004)

I won't be much help, but maybe describing the bike I briefly owned will help if someone can compare/contrast...

I bought a Mt. Rainier from 1986 last year for its rollercams and then parted out the bike. The tubing was Tange MTB and the bike had Mountech FD, XC Power rollercams, XC Power levers (currently for sale on EBay ) and XC Power friction-only thumbies, XC beartrap pedals, XC Sport hubs and those 'no model name' heavy Araya rims so many entry- to mid-level bikes had back then. When I got it, the RD was Shimano STX, so that was obviously replaced. I'm actually not sure if the XC Sport hubs would have been original. I never did pin it down with component dates and could be wrong there, but the previous owner said 1986 and that fit with the friction-only shifters.

The bike was HEAVY, but it was also too big for me and I'm 6'1" - I think it was a 22" frame. Given it had Suntour XC in the days before XC Pro and Tange MTB tubing, I assume this was a mid-range bike (maybe upper end of mid?).

For reference, it was blue and white. Here are some frame photos:


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## Tracerboy (Oct 13, 2002)

*I have two Mt Hoods.*

Both are Hi-Techs,1986 & 1987/88 models. The '86 Has Cunningham Designed rollercams and Suntour XC and the '87/88 Mt Hood has Shimano U-Brakes front and back with Shimano 6 speed components.
Both Mt Hoods have Tange Triple butted MTB cromoly but the '87/'88 seems heavier and has a longer wheelbase.
I'm sure someone here has some scans and info.


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## _BKK (May 2, 2006)

Thanks for the input. If somebody has a catalog or scans of the details on these bikes it would be great.

That picture of the Ross Mt. Hood looks just like the one I had. I really enjoyed that bike.


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## BadHabit (Jan 12, 2004)

_BKK said:


> Thanks for the input. If somebody has a catalog or scans of the details on these bikes it would be great.
> 
> That picture of the Ross Mt. Hood looks just like the one I had. I really enjoyed that bike.


Hi-Tech Mt. Whitney was my first mtb in 1984; it was top of the Ross line, welded up in Japan. I have the catalog/spec page w/pic; see if I can scan it and post it. Weighed 31 lbs. XT Deore friction thumbies and derailleurs, with the antler symbol. Bullmoose bars, all chrome, Ishiwata tubing in the frame, Tange fork. Perfect condition when it was stolen in 1995, god damn it.


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## Two99Point80 (May 13, 2006)

(First post by a newbie)
I'm 58 and have only recently gotten into any kind of shape. My wife and I will be doing mostly onroad riding - we have a pair of RANS Fusions on order - but we also have a couple of old Rosses for casual mixed use (mine is a chrome Mt. Whitney). Lots of choices for riding here in the Asheville NC area.


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## BadHabit (Jan 12, 2004)

Two99Point80 said:


> ...a couple of old Rosses for casual mixed use (mine is a chrome Mt. Whitney).


Casual always preferred to formal. Enjoy!


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## Two99Point80 (May 13, 2006)

Thanks - was hoping you'd notice  Please email me if you would...


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## ScottyMTB (Oct 26, 2005)

Check out this thread from another site. Some good info. I guess Tom Kellog designed the first series before starting Spectrum.

http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-39115.html


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## ScottyMTB (Oct 26, 2005)

From the Spectrum web-site: "November, 1980 - June, 1982 - Tom sets up the legendary "Signature" department at Ross Bicycles and develops the Ross Signature line. After a motorcycle accident, Tom leaves Ross Bicycles and founds Spectrum Cycles. Tom hires Ross Bicycles’ Master Builder Jeff Duser away from the Signature Division of Ross in March, '85."


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## ScottyMTB (Oct 26, 2005)

Two Ross threads on the same day. Who would have guessed. I meant to post my info on the other thread.


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## stan4bikes (May 24, 2006)

This is weird how bikes pop up. I just bought a bike on Craigslist that turned out to be..you guessed it..a Ross. This ones a Diamond Cruiser, Mountain bike type lugged steel frame, BMX looking straight fork, 26" Blue anodized wheels, Blue ano.high-flanged hubs, Blue ano. highlighted crankset and Blue ano. pedals. Heavy as a tank but looks to be in good shape. I bought it for the wheels but may have to clean it up and see how it behaves...pics anyone?


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## logbiter (Dec 30, 2003)

stan4bikes said:


> pics anyone?


post 'em up! :thumbsup:


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## Scrape (Sep 11, 2007)

The one I have was purchased in 1986.
http://img161.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php?id=img161/3214/1189464358ep8.smil


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## cegrover (Oct 17, 2004)

*Ross in 1986 NORBA Nationals*

The bikeforums site, linked above, contains mention of Ross' team in the 1980s. I haven't watched the video in a while, but I recall that Ross had at least a couple of racers in the 1986 NORBA Natl's video that Veloculture was kind enough to send (thanks!). Does anyone here know more about the team and/or who was on it?


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## Scrape (Sep 11, 2007)

Here's a site I tripped across that has some race winners posted from the early 80's. I'm sure some are in there if you can figure out who.

http://www.mountainbikeroots.com/


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## William40 (Mar 4, 2007)

Hi,

I just finished building up an old 1984 Ross Mt. McKinley frame that I got off of Craigslist for $50. I had some parts already but I put about $100 into components. I have been a fan of Ross bikes since my first mountain bike was a '83 or '84 Ross Mt. Hood and I had a lot of adventures on it as a tow-headed youngster. I really liked the ride of the Mt. Hood and I wanted a bike with that ride quality but with updated/early nineties components. So I outfitted the Mt. McKinley with beefy DX rapidfire shifters, an LX rear derailler, LX brake cantilevers, a cartridge BB, a chromo quill stem, a basic Forte aluminum handlebar, short bar ends, comfortable Ritchey True Grips, a Specialized Prolong saddle, silver SPDs and a low Q factor late 80s Shimano crankset. The shifting is quick and precise and the bike stops on a dime. The finished bike is a little heavier than newer bikes of course but it has a nice solidity and balance to it. I like the chrome frame and from what I understand it is resistent to scraps and scratches.

Anyway I was so happy with the way the bike turned out that I wanted to show it off to other Ross fans who might possibly understand my particular mania.

B


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## stan4bikes (May 24, 2006)

Very nice, great mix of old and new(er)....lots of happy riding coming up on this one..


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## Scrape (Sep 11, 2007)

Nice bike William40!  Anyone who has rode a Ross of that type will understand your particular mania. Mine is the signature series and your description of " nice solidity and balance" is a perfect explanation of the feeling you get when riding it. It not only "stops on a dime" but turns on one also. I like the tires you put on your bike but the original ones (on mine anyway), for those who don't know, had a smooth band of tread down the center that made it feel like it had thin tires when going straight on the road. The bike is heavier than some of the new ones but nothing worth being concerned about, mostly after experiencing the practically effortless ride it gives.


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## Scrape (Sep 11, 2007)

I just have to say that this bike is far from outdated. Technology has kicked this bike closer to the road as a reliable commuter but it is still formidable if you want to push the envelope on the road or dirt. I think that Ross was very intent to bring great diversity to the bike's design for well rounded function. If I was still into biking, I would take great pleasure in blowing the competition off the road/path with this bike....At least, I'd try!


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## vintagemtbr (Jun 6, 2004)

*Here's a Ross Mt.Hood*

I learned something about this bike when I tried to swap the heavy dogbone stem for a Tioga T-Bone with a 150mm length and 5 degree rise...the quill is a .0833 diameter so I can't use the 1" style. I'm not even going to bother installing a 1" threaded steerer fork so I'm stuck with Ross stem. I've been using this bike as my daily ride and it's silky smooth but I have yet to do some serious trail riding with it. It's a heavy bike but I'm sure it'll do good on the trail.I'll post a trail photo in a few days.


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## vintagemtbr (Jun 6, 2004)

*Nice Ross you have there.*

You must have a newer bike compared to mine.I can't fit a traditional 1" stem on mine as it seems to have smaller diameter quill. 
I like your Ross. Thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:


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## Cichlidbob (Jul 17, 2007)

A friend of mine gave me this frame back in 2002. I have often wondered where it roots came from. It is a Ross Signature Reynolds 753 steel lugged frame with a 1 1/8th steer tube. It says made in USA exclusively for ROSS by Waterford precision cycles. I converted it to single speed.


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## zenmonkey (Nov 21, 2004)

Bring back this thread. 

But does someone have a catalogue scan for 1986 Ross Mt. McKinley or pictures.
Just acquired a frame and will look at doing a build or restoration project.

Any info appreciated, thanks in advance!


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## manida (Feb 5, 2008)

Im looking for a .833 inch (21.15mm) quill stem for a 1984 Ross Mt. Whitney.....anyone?

Even some of those original integrated bullmoose bars would be great.


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## stan4bikes (May 24, 2006)

*funny you should post this today...*



manida said:


> Im looking for a .833 inch (21.15mm) quill stem for a 1984 Ross Mt. Whitney.....anyone?
> 
> Even some of those original integrated bullmoose bars would be great.


I just picked these up yesterday  (sorry, not for sale) they are generic H&L bars, one has a 21mm stem, the other a 22mm :thumbsup: .


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## manida (Feb 5, 2008)

where'd you get them? This is exactly what Im looking for!


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## manida (Feb 5, 2008)

today I took an old piece of receipt paper and set it on top of the headset and pressed down around the steerer tube hole....I measured 22.0 mm.....is that considered the "outside diameter" for a 21.15, stem? or do I need a 22.0mm stem??? confused.

Also, Im under the impression that 22.0mm is a French size and 21.15mm (0.883in) is American. This for a 1984 Ross Mt. Whitney, so I assume that I'll need the "American" sized quill stem.....but 22.0mm doesnt "sound right"

I just want to know what I need to order!!


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## lazyracer (Apr 11, 2004)

If I were you, I'd replace the fork with a steerer tube that would allow you to use a normal size stem. Ross used an extra thick steerer tube on these to beef up the durability. 

'lazyracer' 
Jim Harlow
Former Ross Biycles L.A. Warehouse Manager 1986-1988
Original ROSS INDIANS Mt Bike Racing Team Member 1983-1985


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## manida (Feb 5, 2008)

hey Jim, thanks for the input. Good the hear it from a former ROSS employee/team member. But first, can you confirm that it is a 21.15mm (.833inch) steerer tube? 
I ask this because Ive found some stems online in this size......I just want to be sure thats what I need.
I really like the original fork that is on it and I'd rather just put a new stem on the thing.


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## Bulldog (Jan 13, 2004)

stan4bikes said:


> This is weird how bikes pop up. I just bought a bike on Craigslist that turned out to be..you guessed it..a Ross. This ones a Diamond Cruiser, Mountain bike type lugged steel frame, BMX looking straight fork, 26" Blue anodized wheels, Blue ano.high-flanged hubs, Blue ano. highlighted crankset and Blue ano. pedals. Heavy as a tank but looks to be in good shape. I bought it for the wheels but may have to clean it up and see how it behaves...pics anyone?


Like this? It's a Mt St Helens btw.










I just missed out on a slightly newer black Mt St Helens a few weeks back through Craigslist. Saw it at 10pm the night it was posted, decided that was too late to call, waited politely until 9am the next morning and missed it by less than an hour! Oh well, didn't need it, but for $40 I wouldn't have passed on it either! The newer one had cantis - MUCH safter for my 260# arse than the nearly useless sidepulls on my blue baby.


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## lazyracer (Apr 11, 2004)

I had several of these fork/stems laying around for the longest time, discarded them a while back. The weird looking 'dog-bone' stock stem is REALLY heavy, it's a solid aluminum casting.

The smaller steerer tube diameter is the same standard as some of the older BMX bikes & some of the older schwinn steerer tube standards. The 22.0 mm is the 'road-bike' standard, and the steerer tube's wall thickness is thinner, and usually a higher quality cro-mo metal composition. You can find the smaller diameter stems, it just limits your choices of stems, not a lot of options. Almost all off road mountain bikes have the larger steerer tube standard, which is why I suggested finding another fork that fits. You may have to replace the headset too. You could also look for someone to custom weld a stem with the smaller steerer tube standard. Back in the day there were several custom stem mfrs which offered both sizes. Nowadays almost everything is a 1 1/8" steerer tube standard for suspension forks, which makes it a bit more difficult to find the older parts.

Good Luck

'lazyracer'


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## manida (Feb 5, 2008)

Im actually thinking of doing this up BMX-style, but keeping the original fork. Ive found some top-bolt BMX quill stems in a 21.15mm diameter that Im considering...and theyre only $12. That, and some crusier bars (which Ive alredy got) would make this kinda sweet.....with the chrome frame and all. Im also considering turning it into a 1x8.


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## First Flight (Jan 25, 2004)

21.1 Bullmoose bars @ http://www.firstflightbikes.com/bars-ste.htm#Bars


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## stan4bikes (May 24, 2006)

*cool..*



First Flight said:


> 21.1 Bullmoose bars @ http://www.firstflightbikes.com/bars-ste.htm#Bars


that makes me feel REAL good about what I paid for my bars w/hanger :thumbsup:


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## soup20000 (Oct 22, 2008)

I thought that this thread could use a little bump so here is a picture of my Ross. It's a Mt. Hood. Is that decent? Any idea where I can get a front derailleur that will work on it? I broke the original when I took it off for cleaning...


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## manida (Feb 5, 2008)

Good to see this thread got some life! 
My Ross is still sitting incomplete. Still planning on converting it to a 1x6.


Soup20000, Im not sure you'd need the original front derailer but I may still have the one that came off mine.


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## cegrover (Oct 17, 2004)

soup20000 said:


> I thought that this thread could use a little bump so here is a picture of my Ross. It's a Mt. Hood. Is that decent? Any idea where I can get a front derailleur that will work on it? I broke the original when I took it off for cleaning...


Measure your seat tube and figure out the clamp diameter. It's probably nothing too hard to find, but I don't know the size. If you want to stay vintage, Ebay and Craigslist are your best bets.

I like that bike! What are the components? More close-up photos would be nice. The black and gold color scheme is cool. It reminds me of this:


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## soup20000 (Oct 22, 2008)

Manida, I don't think that I will require the original but I have been having one heck of a time trying to get answers from the LBS as to what will work. One guy that took a look at it said that "nothing is made that will work anymore" - I can't and don't believe that.

Any ideas on one that may work?

Thanks!


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## TripleStageDarkness (Jun 14, 2008)

I've got the front and rear derailleurs from the same exact bike that I'm not using. If you need them, I'll send them to you and you can use 'em or chuck 'em.


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## manida (Feb 5, 2008)

thread revive!

here's some BEFORE pics of my 1984 Ross Mt. Whitney.....AFTER pics coming soon!
Notice the bars have been bent and an attempt to bend them back was done at some point....theyve been replaced (even though I had to find a .833inch stem that would work!)


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## manida (Feb 5, 2008)

update:


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## manida (Feb 5, 2008)

OK, last pic I swear. Now with grips and padset. Done.


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## William40 (Mar 4, 2007)

Manida,

Nice job on the Mt Whitney. Is this a bike you had that you built up fresh or a frame that you got and just built up?

Cheers,

William


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## manida (Feb 5, 2008)

this was a bike I found inthe dumpster, see the BEFORE pics in message #16

Its got new BMX stem, bars, rear brake, BB, seatpost, saddle, different pedals, padset and a new freewheel.

I removed the inner and outer chainrings


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## harpdog (Mar 25, 2009)

I gave my Mt. Whitney (chrome plated frame) to my son - all original components except for the tires.

Here's a write up, specs, and good pic's of a Mt. Whitney:https://www.mombat.org/1984_Ross_Mt_Whitney.htm

This Mt. St. Helen's I got at a police auction - I love the large frame.










Gears, wheels, and front derailler replaced, along with seat. It's my one and only, which I commute on. Great stable ride.


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## digilux (Mar 23, 2007)

*My restored 1984 Ross Mt. Whitney*

Here is my restoration so far:
_(Wheelset on picture is the wheels from my 1993 Yeti FRO. Only on the bike for the pictures. The same goes for the levers.)_










More images at https://tsh.fotoguiden.no/diverse/ross/mtwhiteny/default.htm

... well not much of a project anymore. I'm allmost done.

Great Thanks to Jeff at Firstflight Bikes for sending this beautifull frame, fork and
bullmoose over the Atlantic to Norway.

Some tech. about the restoration:
Frame: 19" Ishiwata 4130 Cro-mo steel
Fork: Tange
Stem & bar: Bullmoose (.883)
Headset: Top: Ritchey, Bottom: Shimano 600EX
Crank: Shimano Deore w/Biopace (I might put on a Bullseye...)
Pedals: Suntour
BB: Tange sealed
Deraileurs: Suntour XC Sport 7000
Shifters: Suntour XC combo (all in one)
Brakes: Mafac cantilevers
Hubs: Bullseye
Rims: Araya 26" x 1.5
Tires: Knobby
Seatpost: SR Laprade
Seat: Turbo (will be changed to a Brooks B-17)

Thanks for looking, and feedback is most wellcome!

8)

Best regards,

Tor-S. Hansen
Jar, Norway


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## manida (Feb 5, 2008)

nice restore! Did you stick with the original headset (21.15mm or .833 inches)? If so then those bullmoose bars must be 21.15 as well. Curious where you got them and how much $$$ you spent on them.


EDIT: duh, I just read the rundown of parts.


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## digilux (Mar 23, 2007)

manida said:


> nice restore! Did you stick with the original headset (21.15mm or .833 inches)? If so then those bullmoose bars must be 21.15 as well. Curious where you got them and how much $$$ you spent on them.
> 
> EDIT: duh, I just read the rundown of parts.


I bought the frame and fork for US $90,- + US $40,- for the Bullmoose bars. The fork are the original Mt. Whitney, and its all to narrow for all my other 1" stems. For headset I had some old 1" headsets laying aroud. In the bottom its a oversized Shimano 600EX cup+bearings, and on the top its a Ritchey logic cup including bearings and locknut.

I have one aditional bullmoose that is "traditional" 1" and I have bought a fork for it that wil fit. This Bullmoose have cablehanger welded on to it that the Ross bars dont have.

Ill post more pictures when the Bullseye/araya weels are build.

Thanks for the interest.

PS: I'm looking for other Ross collector so we can build a resource web for the Rosses...


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## manida (Feb 5, 2008)

well, youve seen my one and only Ross. It needs a larger chainring and I have another set of brakes for it. I really just dig this frame----foundthe bike in the dumpster.


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## lazyracer (Apr 11, 2004)

Here's a few old soldiers from my museum:

*1984 Ross Mt Hood*, currently on permanent loan to a friend recovering from heart surgery, an alternative exercise / re-hab strategy. Frame was originally all chrome plated, had to re-weld a break by the bottom bracket, front part of frame is now powder coated red.



















*1983 Ross Diamond Cruiser*, this is my "do-everything" bike, it's usually on the bumper rack of my car, a commuter and general transportation vehicle.










Lazyracer


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## 77speed (Nov 28, 2006)

I'm a Ross Diamond Cruiser fan myself. I think I might have an '83 as well - it looks a lot like yours. Are those the stock handlebars? The one I have has bullmoose bars on it. What are those tires? I have 2.1s on mine now and it looks like it could take a much larger tire.

Nice Mt. Hood as well. I have a Mt. Washington frame and fork waiting for a build up soon.


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## gm1230126 (Nov 4, 2005)

Original 84-6 Hoods ans Whitney's NOS with serial numbers as low as 6 and 24. Anyone interested?


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## lazyracer (Apr 11, 2004)

The diamond cruiser was a lifetime garage queen, it was given to me by the chaplain of the Loma Linda Medical Center. He was cleaning out the garage of a house he was moving into. The handlebars are my addition, as is the seat and tires. The rear tire is a 25 x 2.125 Cheng Shin Schwinn Cruiser tire, the front tire is a 26 x 2.50 Tioga DH special, yeh, it fits just fine ...


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## 77speed (Nov 28, 2006)

lazyracer said:


> The diamond cruiser was a lifetime garage queen, it was given to me by the chaplain of the Loma Linda Medical Center. He was cleaning out the garage of a house he was moving into. The handlebars are my addition, as is the seat and tires. The rear tire is a 25 x 2.125 Cheng Shin Schwinn Cruiser tire, the front tire is a 26 x 2.50 Tioga DH special, yeh, it fits just fine ...


Cool. I was thinking Schwalbe Big Apples for the day when my tires wear out. I love the wide rims.

Did yours have bullmoose bars on it when it emerged from the garage? I kind of like them, though yours looks great.

It's a very fun bike to ride. I use it as my around town cruiser.


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## lazyracer (Apr 11, 2004)

I believe it did have bullmoose bars, but it put the riding position in an uncomfortable place for me, hence the cruiser bars. Also the brakes are dia-compe BMX and the shifters are upgraded Shimano & Suntour mt bike stuff. Brakes are not this bikes strong feature, it was never intended to be a serious off roader. The matching blue rims, hubs and cranks are a nice touch. Lest you wanna get picky and critical about the overall bike, it was made to sell as the low end price leader, and as a result, most of the original parts were marginal at best. With a few replacement of drivetrain parts.It's an OK bike if you can get past the weight.

- Lazyracer


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## 77speed (Nov 28, 2006)

I get what you're saying - the brakes are pretty lacking. I was just curious about the year of the bike and what was original. Many of the parts on mine were replaced. I switched out the crankset because the original left crankarm was replaced by one that was not the same length. It made for an interesting ride, for sure! I'm now running a single 44T chainring to the 5 speed freewheel. I removed (and saved) the derailers and put a new shimano rear derailer on. I have a different (not blue) rear wheel on it now, but the width matches the front and an old sprung saddle. 

Incidentally, for additional Ross content, the rear wheel of my bike came from a trashed Ross Mt. St. Helens much like #46 above. I found the Mt. St. Helens with the fork and front wheel mising and a big dent in the top tube, so I stripped it for parts. Many of the components from that find made it onto other projects. I still have that green stem in the old parts bin, though!


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## William40 (Mar 4, 2007)

I found this on the internet and thought I would share. This model was my first mountain bike. Here is what the owner has to say:

"here is my 1983 Ross Mt. Hood. I bought it new in 1983, rode it for college (daily), grad school (weekly), early job (rarely), and now (weekly when the weather is nice). I credit Ross for popularizing the mountain bike: They had a full line in 1983 when Trek just had one bike. I couldnt get a fancy chrome Mt. McKinley (I think they called it) like my friend Rich, so it was the black (and gold rims/hubs) Mt. Hood. It has Ishiwata 024 tubing, SR Sakae crank, SunTour derailleurs and shifters, and Dia Comp cantilevers with huge motorcycle style levers--all original. Back then I added Specialized aluminum fenders and cut the 'bull moose' bars shorter (they were super long and still are heavy). More recently I painted the fenders and bars black. Then I added the bar extenders ( I know they are backward and too inboard, but it helps my sore old back be more upright). I found an old Union generator light I got at a Schwinn dealer years ago in the basement and on it went, too. Lastly, the bottle cage up top for ease. Then, thinner tires for the less seasoned rider. The Lance Armstrong sticker reminds me to keep peddling when I want to coast. I will keep it forever. It is my cheapest, yet most favorite bike: very comfortable geometry, and it has a very utilitarian (or something) look to it. I thought it was unique, then I moved recently and my next door neighbor has the identical model but still all original with the chrome bars, the fat tires, no fenders, etc. Interestingly, he also says it is his favorite bicycle too, for the same reasons. They really got it right."


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## William40 (Mar 4, 2007)

The latest addition to the fleet, an 85 or 86 Mt Hood. I have cut down the handlebars, replaced the nutted wheels with quick release wheels, put on new Ritchey grips, lubed the headset, replaced the botton bracket with a sealed bb, got a new chain, slapped on an LX derailleur, put on a seven speed rear freewheel, had the seat tube reamed out to remove a burr, put on a new seatpost and a gel seat, replaced the shifters and brake levers with LX Rapidfire shifters, put on better brake cantilevers, installed new brake pads, installed new cables and housing, installed clipless pedals and polished the frame. Now I just have to rummage through my parts bin for a small chainring and adjust the front derailleur.


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## bpeder (Jun 4, 2009)

*Bump a Deserving Thread*

Well gang, I did my homework. Threads like this one sure helped! I decided on what I wanted and waited for the right auction on eBay. (I'm waaay glad no one outed me!) My new old ride is an '85 Ross Mt Hood. It's the old sad story, an elderly gentleman who had lost his health and could no longer ride sold the bike to a full time eBay auctioneer and my winning bid was the only one. (That's the happy part) I wish I could tell one of those even happier dumpster or thrift store stories - but I still think it's a great eBay bike for $132.00. I had it shipped to my workplace and the seller packaged it in a wheelchair box which gave my co-workers great joy... Luckily, it did not get crushed at all. The seller did not block the fork or the chain stays as I requested. Whew! :thumbsup:

It was completely stock and very minty. Even had the original Ross 26x2.125 Snakewall "dual purpose but did neither well" tires. I replaced them with Continental TravelCONTACT tires in 26x1.75. A good strong commuter tire. The rims are the standard Arayas with stainless steel spokes, and remarkably straight. I pulled the pie-plate. The only rust was in the usual spots: the inside of the hex heads of most of the bolts. A little dab of naval jelly and rust is gone.

The group is 100% Suntour XC Sport 18 speed, with Sakae crank and the Cunningham Designed roller cams. The frame is Tange MTB Triple Butted with forged dropouts and tons of handy braze-ons including dual points on the down tube for two water bottles. They took those off the seat tube on this model as riders were having trouble getting a longer seat post in past the point where they had the braze-ons originally. There are also points for fenders, and there is a pump nipple rear mounted on the seat tube. The fork is the stock Tange MTB crownless with forged dropouts including nifty little steel retainers to keep the wheel from flying off if you forget to tighten your skewer. Gotta keep those lawyers happy!

SR Laprade seat post, no flutes, with quick release and the original Vetta leather covered saddle which is really a nice touch. I'd forgotten how comfy those were, and this one is was well cared for. I suppose the stem _is_ heavy, it's the massive forged aluminum "dog bone" painted black with straight black alloy bar. The brake levers are massive too, almost motorcycle quality, and the thumbies are friction but work quite well.

The pedals are a bear trap style with a four leaf clover brand engraved in. They are alloy and the toothed frame bands are brown ano. Anybody know what they are? The cables and housings were in such good shape I did not have to do anything to them and I really like how well thought out the heavy braze-ons are for placement and routing of brake and shifter lines. Even the original lead fray checkers are still crimped in place.

The original foam grips are dry but serviceable. I'll deal with them soon and replace dry but serviceable brake pads too. A rack will be on the agenda as well. Those rack point braze-ons are so lonely! But it looks really sleek below the seat, when the rear brakes are mounted on the lower chain stays behind the BB. I'll add some bar ends too and shop around for some period rims for a spare set of Velociraptors I have sitting around, but I'm an older guy too, and I think this bike will be more of a commuter and less of a trail machine. It's going to stand in for my '82 Ross Super Gran TourXV which I suspect is developing a crack in the frame. Time to strip, inspect and re-paint - always fun and rewarding.

Finally, the bike rides so well. It's just smooth all day long. These mid 80s MTBs had more in common with road bikes. It weighs 31.9 pounds, built like a tank and inspires great confidence in its strength. It tracks well and that triple butted tubing flexes where you need it to and is stiff where you want it to be. I rode a friends Titus recently, a 6K boing boing and while there's a lot to be said for a bike like that, I just plain love the ride of this Ross Mt Hood. Smooth, silky, effortless. It will never be as ride able as my SGTXV but for my money, this is a sweet, dependable classic vintage retro MTB. And what can you say about a chrome frame? Bike porn!


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## William40 (Mar 4, 2007)

Bpeder,

Nice chrome Ross in great condition! I really like the chromed Ross's. If you want to get a lighter stem you could probably find a chrome fork with a one inch steer tube pretty easily. There seem to be a lot available.

I just put panniers on this Ross Mt. McKinley and took a nice tour north of Seattle.


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## bpeder (Jun 4, 2009)

Hey William, nice lookin bike! And very tastefully upgraded. Man, I'd see these chrome Rosses on the boards and I just knew I'd have to have one. My road Ross has been such a pal over the years that I figured I could not go wrong. There are so many good MTBs from the mid 80s out there and not that much interest in them - but I bet that will change in the next decade. Again, that's a gorgeous bike you have there. Take care of it and ride safe and healthy _~bp_


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## ballred (Jun 11, 2009)

Wow, these pictures bring back some memories. I bought my Mt. Hood in 1983 while I was in college. I'd forgotten the yellow hubs and rimsl Some of my friends had a green version (don't remember the name of that model.), and some had the chrome Mt. Whitneys. We rode the snot out of those bikes. No fancy shorts or helmets. Just some jeans and stout shoes. I remember riding back across campus in the pouring rain covered in sufficient mud as to be unrecognizable. Goodness knows where that bike is now.


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## dontyoueatthatyellowsnow (Nov 21, 2005)

*Another Chrome Mt Hood*








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A bit heavy but she rides great. I have the original saddle.....sorry about the newish orange saddle but hey...School colors.


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## bpeder (Jun 4, 2009)

I read somewhere when I was researching the Ross bikes, that many of their _really_ old models from the 60s and 70s still have mirror bright (steel) rims because they were double chromed. If Ross did this for their chrome frames too, these bikes we have will probably still look awesome many years from now. It's hard to say though. Many, (like mine), were designed in PA and welded up in Taiwan. I wonder if the entire workflow was done there or if the frames and forks were imported in the gray steel and finished and built up in the states? I also read that there are some painted McKinley's and Hoods and maybe others, that are chromed _under_ the paint. Strange. I wonder why they would paint a chromed bike?

Not to worry I guess - a chrome finish in general is a very strong thing. Look at all those Chicago Paramount(s) that people love to collect, and even if they aren't double chromed - they should still look great for many years. I have not seen a single picture of a chrome Ross that did not look brilliant. Husky Pee? I like your orange accents. They go well with the decals. Pretty bike! Looking at the height of your saddle and that 25" frame makes me think you must be on the tall side ;-) Cheers! ~ bp


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## manida (Feb 5, 2008)

your douchiness


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## bpeder (Jun 4, 2009)

> your douchiness


Two weeks later and I'm _still _ wondering what that means... I'm leaning 85% toward thinking it's funny though.


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## manida (Feb 5, 2008)

nah, I was called a douche for posting a CL ad for 2 Ross frames/forks. I edited my post with that absurd phrase.

I guess i didnt realize posting items for sale (or links to for sale items) was so frowned upon. I didnt think it affected anyone so personally as to call me a douche.


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## bpeder (Jun 4, 2009)

Ah, I get it. Yeah names are kind of childish. The "for sale forum" is the place to go if you are selling something but posting a CL ad? Unless it's _your_ CL ad, I don't see the big hairy. Fer fecks sake it's just a bike. Besides, a CL ad is way less likely to be poached - it's orders of magnitude less competitive than eBay where you might find yourself up against some sharp snipes in the last 10 seconds of an auction. You probably would anyway.

I would have been bummed if someone outed the eBay Ross I bought that I posted about at #60 and I lost the auction, but not to where I would have called you nasty names. Besides, you never know how these sales actually go up or down... Save the name calling for your congressman. I'm going to go get into my "internet happy box" now ala' _Pearls Before Swine_... Peace-out manida _~bp_


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## harpdog (Mar 25, 2009)

The Ross Mt. Whitney I bought new in early 80's. My son has it now. All original except the tires.


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## phungi (Aug 27, 2009)

Need some advice. Can hte brakes, shifters, and derailleurs from this bike be put on a Mt. Hood?

I am fairly handy but not very experienced with custom bike repair. However, I love my Mt. Hood and have this bike as well. If I could have new click-shifters and better brakes on my Mt. Hood, it would be perfect. It appears that the brakes will fit, and the back tires would need to be swapped... not sure about the crankset and mounting the derailleurs.

Any tips based on experience would be most appreciated.


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## digilux (Mar 23, 2007)

Yes, but you need the wheels too due to the cassette. I would prob take the crtankset also...


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## MI-29er (Jun 5, 2009)

Here a some pictures of my parents early 80's Ross bikes. This first bike (green one)is my dads. It is a Ross Diamond Cruiser 10 sp. I think this was Ross's first mountian bike they made. My dad has the receipt from when he bought it back in 82 for $250. anyway when I was taking this bike out if the rafters to take some photos, I forgot that this bike wasn't my Fisher. This thing as a TANK. Anyway here are some specs on the bike.... Sun Tour shiftres, Custom Crankset, Dia-Compe Brakes, Shimano Eagle II rear derailer, Original snake belly tires, Original handlebars, and I think original Selle Royal Seat. The odometer on the bike reas 350. Here are a couple of pictures. The second bike is my mothers. It is a Mt. Saint Helens. Enjoy


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## Oldfatbaldguy (Nov 4, 2010)

Bumping up an old thread: maybe a new poster or two has a new thought or two to add. I'm not a bike-knowledgeable guy, but I bought a Ross in about 1983. There were only a few models available then: a red or black painted bike better described as a cruiser with a 10-speed/ashtabula BB, cheap cruiser stem/gooseneck/bar and steel rims, a Chrome bike with bull-moose bars and Suntour group, and a sky-blue or white painted bike kinda between them in quality with Suntour derailers but no-name crank and chainring.

I bought the Chrome one, but it never had a marketing name. Probably wouldn't matter anyway, as the Ross stickers only lasted about 1 season.

I know where there is a Ross "Bear Mtn" dating from later in the 1980's: this is also painted sky blue with a white fork, and has that wierd dog-bone stem extension. I think this one roughly corresponds to the mid-level bikes from earlier in the 1980's. It has wierd brakes like none I have seen: center pull, kind of like a roller cam brake except there is a toggle link, and the whole setup mounts on a U-bracket on a center-pull stud. They work fairly well for a cheap system, but the owner says they need VERY frequent adjustments.

I might try to talk him out of the old bike, as mine is broken, and he never rides it anymore.


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## guitartreker (Jan 28, 2010)

Is that the bike on Ebay? Rumphy likes those colors but not a ROSS


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## scottybinwv (Jun 29, 2010)

My first actual mtn bike was a 1987 Mt. Hood, wish I still had it. Thanks for the pictures.


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## gipsyviking (Aug 6, 2012)

My first and only mtn bike is an '84 Ross. It still rides well. I'm replacing some worn out parts. Nice pics of the old bikes!


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## gipsyviking (Aug 6, 2012)

*Some pics of the old tank*

I added some new tires and bars. It's a Mt. Washington.


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## TonyMcG (Apr 14, 2006)

I just purchased what appears to be 1984 Ross Hi-Tech Mt. Hood from a local college student that had inherited it from the original owner. Everything appears to be in good working condition and original equipment except my research indicates that it should have a Sakae triple crankset instead of the Sugino Aero Maxy 170mm with 52t & 42t chainrings. To make this bike more off-road rideable, can I swap the crankset for a vintage mountain crankset (Sakae, Sugino, or Suntour)? Will the Suntour AG Tech front derailleur and Suntour Power Shifter work with the mountain triple? Would the bottom bracket that is in the bike now work with a mountain triple?


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## gipsyviking (Aug 6, 2012)

*The Walking Dead Ross*

My '83 black Mt.Washington I got in '84 with stock specs from catalog.
Amlite tubing, Lugless BB, Nakano hubs, Sun Metal HD steel rims 26x1.5 (38mm)
105ga spokes, 26x2.125 gum sidewall tires, 1pc. hot forged crank 39x52T
CroMo bullnose stem (21.1mm) & handlebars, Steel seatpost, Ross Anatomic saddle
Hatta headset, Shimano black SX pedals, Shimano Uniglide chain
Shimano Uniglide 14-28T freewheel, Shimano thumb shifters
Alloy sidepull brakes, 35.4 lbs.

Painted spa blue since and replaced with some modern parts.

















...and most current setup with Truvativ stem, quill adapter, Octane One bars, Duro DH front fat.


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## CYCLEJCE (Nov 2, 2010)

You should be able to order a new set of the bull moose bars from Specialized.

Sweet Ross too!


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## gipsyviking (Aug 6, 2012)

I have the original bull moose bars. I'm gonna sell them.
I just wanted to replace with newer parts.
I love this bike, even after 30 yrs.!
Thanks!


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## whatitd07 (Mar 14, 2013)

Hey everyone! I love this thread and have been kind of creeping around for a lil bit before posting. I have been working on my Ross now for close to a year and think it's almost done! I have a set of Paul brakes being put on soon as well as a new chainwheel. I'll post some pics to see what ya'll think.


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## whatitd07 (Mar 14, 2013)

*Here she is!*


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## CYCLEJCE (Nov 2, 2010)

Very nice!!!


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## whatitd07 (Mar 14, 2013)

CYCLEJCE said:


> Very nice!!!


Thanks so much!!! I cannot wait to finish her up.

Parts list:

King headset

Paul Wheelset

Paul Canti Brakes

Profile bb and 3 piece cranks

Profile Chainring

Stelle Italia saddle

White Industries Freewheel

and some awesome Crazy Bob balloon tires!


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## CYCLEJCE (Nov 2, 2010)

I thought those were Profile cranks! So you are running a 1" threadless setup?


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## whatitd07 (Mar 14, 2013)

Yes sir, you're right! They were early 90's NOS bb and crank arms combo. I'm actually running it as a 1" threaded setup. I was a lil concerned bc I've seen all of ya'lls other issues with headsets but so far I'm not having any spacing issues.


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## oldcruiser26 (Mar 15, 2008)

Here's a 84/85 Ross Hi Tech I just finished up


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## Golite4 (Oct 19, 2011)

That is a "Sick" build. I love those handlebars. What kind are they?


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## Golite4 (Oct 19, 2011)

I have a near mint condition 1983 Ross Force One I am looking to sell. Here is a link to my picture Gallery. If anyone is interested I would love to hear from you. Thanks, James

1983 Ross Force One ALL ORIGINAL! 15 Speeds | Sporting Goods:Cycling:Bicycles | JPEGbay.com


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## Golite4 (Oct 19, 2011)

*Golite4's 1983 Ross Force One*


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## cmc4130 (Jan 30, 2008)

Just picked this up. I like blue anodized Dia-Compe brakes and the SR hubs with Ukai rims. And, of course, the GT cruiser bars.

Kinda wish it wasn't a ladies frame !


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## Konasun (Jan 6, 2014)

*1985 Ross Mt. Ranier*

My 1985 Ross Mt. Rainier. Love this bike.


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## YakimaDeathYaks (Aug 15, 2012)

Does anyone have any photos or information about the Ross Signature Team Bikes fillet brazed by Jim Redcay?? I'm pretty sure i have a early one but not a 100%


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## rockychrysler (Aug 9, 2003)

I had a Ross back in the day, prolly a Mt Hood. Hard to know for sure, as only the head badge decal was intact when I got it. Despite never knowing it's name, it was an undeniably fun bike to ride.

Not too many pictures of it remain, however. Scanning through old files this morning, I could only find the one below. I'm riding down a loose dual track on the southern flank of SP Crater in far northern Arizona. The camera lens is pointed south-southwest.









Fun fact: SP, the cartographically sanitized name for the feature, which was called Sh!t Pot by cattlemen on Babbitt Ranch where the crater is located, is the most recent eruption on the north side of the San Francisco Peaks volcanic field (Sunset Crater on the east side of the field is much newer) and a lovely, remote place to ride one's bike to if you're ever looking for a day ride on dirt roads in the middle of nowhere somewhere in Arizona.








Finger points to general location of first photo above.


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## BicycleSafari (Feb 8, 2018)

*Scans*



BadHabit said:


> Hi-Tech Mt. Whitney was my first mtb in 1984; it was top of the Ross line, welded up in Japan. I have the catalog/spec page w/pic; see if I can scan it and post it. Weighed 31 lbs. XT Deore friction thumbies and derailleurs, with the antler symbol. Bullmoose bars, all chrome, Ishiwata tubing in the frame, Tange fork. Perfect condition when it was stolen in 1995, god damn it.


I recently "finished" building up my 84 Mt.Whitney. Thinking about adding fenders eventually (we'll see though), and on the hunt for some mounts that would hold an old flashlight as my front light.
I wanted to see if you had scrounged up that catalog page. Half the fun of putting this thing together has been collecting all the information I can find about its history. I figure its a long shot since this thread is a little long in the tooth already, but just thought I'd check in and give it a shot.

Here's my pride. 

__
http://instagr.am/p/BhQWDvSh9ul/

(and for you purists out there, don't worry, I kept the bullmoose bars)


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## Ironhse (Aug 26, 2020)

*Here is my Ross Hi-TECH*

I found this thread while researching my recently acquired Ross HI-TECH. I'm not sure which model it is but I think this one is all original including the Ross tires. It might be a Mt. St. Helen. I have been unable to find a photo of this bike with it's blacked out rims. Most I've seen have gold rims. Here are a few pics for reference Just like I bought it, just cleaned it up a little. Figured I'd immortalize it in some pics before it's gone. Rides so nice I almost want to keep it but the plan was to flip it and make a few bucks. Now I don't know.


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