# Newb Bike build... help please....



## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

I want to build a bike and I have decided on picking up an xl 2009 stumpjumper pro carbon frame.... it comes with s120 forks and front derailleur. I am 6'2" 240lbs.... is this the right size frame for me? Whats wheels, gears, etc would fit this bike? I am clueless but want to build a bike because it will be more cost effective for me and I can learn the in and outs of the bike.... thanks


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## Edirty6 (Jun 23, 2012)

you might want to recheck the "cost effective" part, building a bike from scratch can be more than a fully assembled one, one the other hand, building a bike from scratch teaches you all the stuff you'll need to know, and can carry over say you break something out on the trail. it also lets you have the parts that you want to have on your bike. if i had the money i would do the same.

you'll need to know the frame specs. for bottom bracket and from there you can start searching what drivetrain you'll want. depending on what kind of riding you do, there's many choices that you can pick from. with a great frame like the one you have, try to avoid putting low end parts on it. it may cost more but it will be worth it. the best way to learn about what parts work with what is to Google it, and visit your LBS and ask them questions. most of them will be happy to help you and explain how drivetrains and derailleurs work. once you found a part that your interested, you can give the company a call and ask them personally. some companys will be able to tell you if there parts will work for your bike, they should have that information availble because the part you may be buying could be factory installed on some other bikes. DO NOT order parts without checking and then checking again to make sure it will fit. its frustrating getting a new part in mail after waiting for ever and then only learning that it wont work on your bike. 

and to learn how to install and adjust and tune your bike that you'll be building. YouTube has you covered. they have videos on everything. thats how i learned to adjust my deraillurs and change my Cog rings out when i bent the big ring.


im probably leaving out some information to, so i'll let someone who has built a bike from scratch fill in the missing spots. i havent built my bike from ground up. only replaced the fork, Cogs and front and rear derailleurs


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## Niner_Boy (Sep 4, 2012)

I built my first ever bike over the past few weeks. I spent many weeks reviewing these forums, especially, as well as searching online. People here can tell you that these wheels will fit your frame, or that stem, but it's you that's gonna ride it, and pay for it. 

I suggest putting a parts list together in a spreadsheet of some sort. I was also concerned about weight, so the projected weight was also something I considered. Then the research came. I didn't know how may seatpost or stem sizes there were, but after asking questions in the noob section and putting that list together, I was confident that I could build my bike with the correct fitting parts at the price I wanted to pay, and it's pretty satisfying to tell my friends that I built it from scratch, never mind the cheesy grin on my face when I'm on the trails.

Find out everything you can about the frame, and learn from others' mistakes in here. It's gonna take hours of research- there's no easy part, but I can assure you the rewards far outweigh the time spent.

Guess what I'm saying is that research is the most valuable thing you can do


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

Having built my own bikes from scratch, here is my advice.

1. Frame sizing - go test ride some bikes at a friendly LBS to see what sizing fits you best. Ride for 15 mins or so and you'll REALLY know if the sizing is right for you.

2. Do some research on the frame you're buying. It should tell you what the bike came with originally. Nice place to start for you is here: Specialized Bicycle Components

3. Now that you know what the bike came with, decide what you want to put on the bike (i.e. what will work, and what doesn't, what kind of parts). Example - I built my 07 SJ with the plan to go straight to 3x10 SRAM drivetrain instead of sticking to 3x9 as it would have come originally.

4. Start reading install manuals, tech articles, watch how-to videos.

6. Do your parts research for the parts you decided on - how much each really costs, and how cheap you can buy them for (researching completed listings on ebay is very helpful)

7. Order all the parts - search locally, online, on ebay etc. Black Friday deals are everywhere right now so it is a great time to pick up bargains.

8. Wait for parts to arrive.

9. Put everything together using the knowledge you picked up from the manuals, videos etc.

10. Take the bike for shakedown ride - make adjustments.

TADA!!! You have built your own bike! Now go hit the trails!!

BTW, I usually come in way below market value by putting my bikes together.

-S


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

Thanks guys I am learning more about the part as I type this.... what is a good online site to buy parts from?


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## DavyRay (Apr 13, 2012)

A couple of comments. You can't make good decisions without experience. Experience requires learning from mistakes. I suggest you buy a used bike from Craigslist or similar place in order to have a starting place.

For buying parts, here are my personal favorites:
Jenson USA - Online mountain & road bike parts, clothing and accessories shop
Universal Cycles - The Largest Selection of Road and Mountain Bike Parts
Feature Items - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, massachusetts
Bikes, Cycling Clothing, Bike Parts & Cycling Gear: Bike Discounts & Deals from Nashbar

No kidding, you will have to own a bike and ride it before any of the online comments make any sense to you.


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

You may also want to check out Mountain Bike Parts, Gear, and Accessories | CycleSport

They are clearancing everything because they are shutting down to focus on their primary business (Motocross stuff). Picked up several great deals there but I think their stock is getting thin.

-S


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

I dont want to get a bike off of craigslist.... I already have a great frame


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## Visionist (Nov 23, 2012)

I would definitely try to learn a bit more before jumping into building a bike.


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

I am a maintenance mechanic and you tube is golden.... ill post a few pics on here after I buildmy ride


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

MadScientist said:


> I want to build a bike and I have decided on picking up an xl 2009 stumpjumper pro carbon frame.... it comes with s120 forks and front derailleur. I am 6'2" 240lbs.... is this the right size frame for me? Whats wheels, gears, etc would fit this bike? I am clueless but want to build a bike because it will be more cost effective for me and I can learn the in and outs of the bike.... thanks


;'
I will echo others sentiments. Building from scratch and cost effective are two things that almost never go together. not to say that it can't be done, but it's awfully tough if you have no experience. There are so many little parts that really make the price start adding up that buying from bikes direct for your first bike is probably the best bet and then stripping all the parts off it and then putting them onto this frame you have. That way you will learn a lot about how to build and work on your own bike and when you are done you can sell the bikes direct frame for a couple hundred bucks and recoup. to build it on the cheap otherwise means scouring ebay and craigslist for parts and while you may get some deals on parts you won't necessarily know if they are any good or not.


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

cpfitness said:


> ;'
> I will echo others sentiments. Building from scratch and cost effective are two things that almost never go together. not to say that it can't be done, but it's awfully tough if you have no experience. There are so many little parts that really make the price start adding up that buying from bikes direct for your first bike is probably the best bet and then stripping all the parts off it and then putting them onto this frame you have. That way you will learn a lot about how to build and work on your own bike and when you are done you can sell the bikes direct frame for a couple hundred bucks and recoup. to build it on the cheap otherwise means scouring ebay and craigslist for parts and while you may get some deals on parts you won't necessarily know if they are any good or not.


Understandable..... I guess the madscientist needs to get to work.... lol


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

dont let the naysayers dissuade you. if you want to start riding right away, buying a used bike is a better option. if your willing to take time to get it built and buy it part by part, then go for it. There are also a lot of speciality tools specific to bikes, particularly in the area of crank removal and installation and headset removal and installation so you not only need to buy parts, you need to buy the proper tools or have a bike shop do certain aspects of your install


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## DavyRay (Apr 13, 2012)

MadScientist said:


> I want to build a bike and I have decided on picking up an xl 2009 stumpjumper pro carbon frame.... it comes with s120 forks and front derailleur. I am 6'2" 240lbs.... is this the right size frame for me? Whats wheels, gears, etc would fit this bike? I am clueless but want to build a bike because it will be more cost effective for me and I can learn the in and outs of the bike.... thanks





MadScientist said:


> I dont want to get a bike off of craigslist.... I already have a great frame


You are not going to be riding that frame any time soon. Do you already have a mountain bike to ride? I suggested a used bike because you do not have a clue how much this will cost in dollars, hours, and calendar time. Say six months, and $1200. That's an educated guess.


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

The building of the bike can be realatively fast. It is getting the parts and tools that can take a long time. The most recent bike i built took about a week and a half of building but probably 4 months of part collecting in the process. I knew what parts I wanted plus had a bunch on hand (I was building my girlfriends bike and was able to upgrade lots of my parts and put my old ones on her bike. Win/win hehe). It is nice to have another bike around to look at for examples and ride while you are building your new bike.


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## Boulder Pilot (Jan 23, 2004)

As many have said, experience will ensure a more enjoyable project. This is not to say you will not be able to complete your project or meant to dissuade you.

As far as being cost effective, if you are privy to employee discounts, I can see where you can save money over retail.

Just to set the reality bar, I saw a 2009 XL Stumpy Pro Carbon, excellent condition, with a better fork than yours, complete, for *$1850*, no tax.

Good luck with your build and post pics of your project.

Cheers.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

Beside the skills needed to build the bike up you'd also need proper tools, and they are not cheap, when you starting out. You'd need a bike stand of some sort and go from there. If you decide to go that route then all the power to you, there are some learning curve but once you got them down it's like riding a bike


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

I will be building the bike for sure.... wish me luck and I will post pics most definitely.... thanks guys....


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

Im trying to find a good mechanic bike stand.... any thoughts guys?


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## njoypow (Nov 23, 2012)

:yikes::


DavyRay said:


> You are not going to be riding that frame any time soon. Do you already have a mountain bike to ride? I suggested a used bike because you do not have a clue how much this will cost in dollars, hours, and calendar time. Say six months, and $1200. That's an educated guess.


Holy dag gone golly gosh dern it jasper....I didnt know it took six months to build a bicycle
good luck mr madscientist... this must be impossible...er most of these folks is bike shop employees er something


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

njoypow said:


> :yikes::
> 
> Holy dag gone golly gosh dern it jasper....I didnt know it took six months to build a bicycle
> good luck mr madscientist... this must be impossible...er most of these folks is bike shop employees er something


Typical MTBR forum participants watching a bike being built.











-S


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## njoypow (Nov 23, 2012)

As for the bike stand, I use a five gallon bucket with a brick on top.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

njoypow said:


> As for the bike stand, I use a five gallon bucket with a brick on top.


Many DIY may work for general maintenance but not for a build or you gotta have experience or Kung fu master mechanical skill

Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk


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## njoypow (Nov 23, 2012)

mimi1885 said:


> Many DIY may work for general maintenance but not for a build or you gotta have experience or Kung fu master mechanical skill
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk


Geez...Seems ur experience lies manly in your fingertips mr 6000 posts... the dudes trying to build a bike and everyone is shredin him. I build race jeeps bra....these are bikes


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

njoypow said:


> Geez...Seems ur experience lies manly in your fingertips mr 6000 posts... the dudes trying to build a bike and everyone is shredin him. I build race jeeps bra....these are bikes


Hey, be nice.   

-S


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

njoypow said:


> Geez...Seems ur experience lies manly in your fingertips mr 6000 posts... the dudes trying to build a bike and everyone is shredin him. I build race jeeps bra....these are bikes


Explain to me how you'd install the crank and bb for starter


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

I dont know because I havent done it but I will get r dun


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## njoypow (Nov 23, 2012)

mimi1885 said:


> Explain to me how you'd install the crank and bb for starter


 im sher madscientist will figure it out. Most off us have changed out our BBs since we were kids. Just cuz you have coin now and a job where you dont have to do anything..i.e. 6,000 posts, doesnt mean you have to shred on the dood who is just getting into the sport. This is the noob thread and no one can even answer if the frame is the right size? That was a general question that endend up gettin flamed in the noob section. I got so bored as soon as I moved to PA that I went on here....YOU GUYS ARE NOODLES At least i know the reason I never heard of this site when i lived in mammoth


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

njoypow said:


> im sher madscientist will figure it out. Most off us have changed out our BBs since we were kids. Just cuz you have coin now and a job where you dont have to do anything..i.e. 6,000 posts, doesnt mean you have to shred on the dood who is just getting into the sport. This is the noob thread and no one can even answer if the frame is the right size? That was a general question that endend up gettin flamed in the noob section. I got so bored as soon as I moved to PA that I went on here....YOU GUYS ARE NOODLES At least i know the reason I never heard of this site when i lived in mammoth


Something is wrong with you, you should have it checked out. How did I shred MS, hmmm?. Don't worry about my coins, and my posts as I have plenty of both, you are more than welcome to check my profile

Also genius, internet is the worst place to fit a bike, I bet you've done that since you were a kids, eh? This is a noob forum so many posts here do not know any better, and many vet participate because they can help out, not because we are know it all, but certainly, collectively we have made more mistakes than any noobs, that's how people learn.

Mr. helpful do you even know what frame MS want to build up? and your first suggestion to him is to use a bucket and some brick? Go troll somewhere else boobs.

The neg rep is from me, so don't ask:madman:


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## DavyRay (Apr 13, 2012)

I love to help out new people. Heck, I'm new to mountain biking. I did turn wrenches in a bike shop long time ago. All I want is to see madscientist have some idea that this can be a big job. Some of us have jobs, and have limited time to build stuff at home, as fun as that is.

I've been collecting parts for a Surly Krampus frameset which I hope to get in December. I have spent more money than I would like to admit to. I have also been unsure about component choices. I obsessed over brakes for weeks, before finally deciding what I could afford, what would fit the bike, and which adapters I would need. Still need to buy a headset. The part numbers don't line up for me. I see recommendations about what to get for this frame, but do not see those exact part numbers on the online marketplaces.

I did buy a $200 bike from Craigslist so I do actually ride. I have lots of bike wrenching experience, though that is a couple of decades out of date. The bottom brackets are different, shifters are different. Nothing I can't figure out, but it all takes time.

Enjoy the journey. Just don't expect it to be real fast or real cheap.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

mimi1885 said:


> Explain to me how you'd install the crank and bb for starter


Um really? Just did it the other day. Why is it hard? Put the wheels on the bike and lean it up against the wall

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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

cpfitness said:


> Um really? Just did it the other day. Why is it hard? Put the wheels on the bike and lean it up against the wall
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


That I can see, not ideal but it can be done, but a bucket and bricks on a carbon frame is a horrible idea.


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## Larry_K (Jul 10, 2010)

MadScientist said:


> I am 6'2" 240lbs.... is this the right size frame for me?


I looked up the frame geo, and depending on your build it may be a BIT large for you (25.1" effective top tube length, 33.1" standover height) but it's likely in the ballpark and can be dialed in for you with the right seatpost/bar & stem combo.


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

I have not seem anyone hammering on OP. telling someone that building a bike can take a while and cost a lot is true. I just paid 170 dollars for my handlebars and due to them be back ordered and getting the wrong ones it took 4 weeks. That is handlebars. I have paid about 1g for rims and tires, stem, and pedals. You can get a bike for that. So yeah it can be expensive. I also have built 4 bikes and still take them to the LBS to get certain things done, I am sure others do not but I don't have the tools or knowledge. I enjoy building them though. Having a stand is nice (I have one) but not a necessity. I feel like my skill is more suited to commuters and back up bikes. I still feel like my main mountain bike needs to get difficult work done by the lbs due to the fact I don't want to make an expensive mistake.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

mimi1885 said:


> That I can see, not ideal but it can be done, but a bucket and bricks on a carbon frame is a horrible idea.


Dude wtf kinda cranks do you install? It is not hard to build a bike, especially on a new frame. Removing a crank is FAR more difficult than installing one. Installing a headset can be tough without proper tools but its $10 and 5 mins for an lbs to do it. Everhthing else on a bike is bolting on simple parts. At worst the inexperienced needs a good torque wrench.

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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

just for the hell of it, lets review installing a bb. step one measure bb shell determine if its 68 or 73mm. Apply grease to threads inside bottom bracket and on threads of outboard bearings. Screw on outboard bb bearings using appropriate spacers based on headshell. Tighten to proper spec. slide drive side crank through bottom bracket. Slide on crank arm on other side. install bearing tension setter thingy (sorry brain fart on what that piece is called) tighten hex bolts on non drive side crank arm to spec. Voila. simple instructions for your standard outboard bearing crank ala Shimano. WHAT IS SO HARD?????? WHY WOULD YOU TELL SOMEONE THEY NEED TO SPEND $100 ON A STAND???????
Does a stand make things easier? yes. Is it required? absolutely not. do you carry a stand with you on the trail when things break? lol


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

Are you replacing a bottom bracket on the trail? I would probably walk home. But it does sound easy now that you put it that way. You are telling someone to get a torque wrench that costs a lot. The bottom bracket is definitely not the most difficult part of putting a bike together. You going to measure and cut a fork on the trail? You going to install the headset without tools, use your multitool and a rock? You absolutely don't need a stand but it is nice. There are lots of tools required to build a bike that would not be cost effective to buy to use once. That is why I do what I can and when I need special tools go to the lbs.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

jrogs said:


> Are you replacing a bottom bracket on the trail? I would probably walk home. But it does sound easy now that you put it that way. You are telling someone to get a torque wrench that costs a lot. The bottom bracket is definitely not the most difficult part of putting a bike together. You going to measure and cut a fork on the trail? You going to install the headset without tools, use your multitool and a rock? You absolutely don't need a stand but it is nice. There are lots of tools required to build a bike that would not be cost effective to buy to use once. That is why I do what I can and when I need special tools go to the lbs.


I agree that there are things that it's worth having the lbs do because the amount of times that you are going to do them doesn't justify the cost of the tools. With that said, what planet do you live on that a torque wrench is expensive? cutting a fork? A hacksaw blade is a $1!!! I live in NYC. I barely have room for my clothes never mind a basement "man cave", garage, workshop, shed, etc and I have had no problem building up numerous bikes. Bottom line the op needs realistic expectations and saying he can't build a bike at all, or that he can't build one without a stand is utterly ridiculous. That is what other posters did.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

cpfitness said:


> just for the hell of it, lets review installing a bb. step one measure bb shell determine if its 68 or 73mm. Apply grease to threads inside bottom bracket and on threads of outboard bearings. Screw on outboard bb bearings using appropriate spacers based on headshell. Tighten to proper spec. slide drive side crank through bottom bracket. Slide on crank arm on other side. install bearing tension setter thingy (sorry brain fart on what that piece is called) tighten hex bolts on non drive side crank arm to spec. Voila. simple instructions for your standard outboard bearing crank ala Shimano. WHAT IS SO HARD?????? WHY WOULD YOU TELL SOMEONE THEY NEED TO SPEND $100 ON A STAND???????
> Does a stand make things easier? yes. Is it required? absolutely not. do you carry a stand with you on the trail when things break? lol


Dude chill. OP is not spending your money or mine on any bike tools, if you are cool with building the whole bike from the frame up I'd love to see that on youtube. Can it be done? absolutely! Is it a good idea? absolutely not!

OP has a carbon FS frame and want to build it from the frame up, one of the point he asked in his op was cost effectiveness. Which has different answer, yes and no. Yes if you want specific parts on the bike and learning as you go, and no, it would not be cheaper than buying complete bike or a groupo/build kit.

Since op did not mention the budget(if he did show me where I missed it), I'm not going to assume that he does not have any to spend, just because someone is new does not mean they are poor as well Last thing you want when building a bike from the frame up is not to have proper tools. It's not like he picked up the bike on craigslist for cheap and want to learn how to wrench it.

I've done my fair share of trailside repair using whatever available but I'm certainly not going to recommend anyone to do that at home everytime, WTH is wrong with you, stop screaming

edit: OP just to give you a point of reference, LBS would charge $100-170 to build a bike up from the frame when you bring them all of the components. Smaller job would be $10-25 like headset installation, adjustment, etc.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

mimi1885 said:


> Dude chill. OP is not spending your money or mine on any bike tools, if you are cool with building the whole bike from the frame up I'd love to see that on youtube. Can it be done? absolutely! Is it a good idea? absolutely not!
> 
> OP has a carbon FS frame and want to build it from the frame up, one of the point he asked in his op was cost effectiveness. Which has different answer, yes and no. Yes if you want specific parts on the bike and learning as you go, and no, it would not be cheaper than buying complete bike or a groupo/build kit.
> 
> ...


you are such an unknolwedgeable person it's disgusting! lol, I didn't know I needed to make a youtube video of me sliding a seatpost into a tube and locking it down with a clamp. or putting my wheels on and shutting the quickreleases. WHY ON GODS GREEN EARTH DO YOU NEED A STAND TO BUILD A BIKE? explain the role that a stand plays in building a bike? I wonder if you've even ever built a bike with the answers you are giving, they are so ridiculous. And the fact that it's carbon is irrelevant. people act like carbon magically implodes during assembly without a torque wrench. torque wrenches are for inexperienced dummies. Have you ever seen someone use a torque wrench to put lugnuts on a car wheel? technically the instructions call for it, but people that have experience and know what they are doing don't need to do it.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

cpfitness said:


> you are such an unknolwedgeable person it's disgusting! lol, I didn't know I needed to make a youtube video of me sliding a seatpost into a tube and locking it down with a clamp. or putting my wheels on and shutting the quickreleases. WHY ON GODS GREEN EARTH DO YOU NEED A STAND TO BUILD A BIKE? explain the role that a stand plays in building a bike? I wonder if you've even ever built a bike with the answers you are giving, they are so ridiculous. And the fact that it's carbon is irrelevant. people act like carbon magically implodes during assembly without a torque wrench. torque wrenches are for inexperienced dummies. Have you ever seen someone use a torque wrench to put lugnuts on a car wheel? *technically the instructions call for it, but people that have experience and know what they are doing don't need to do it.*


A know it all do not need technical instructions or proper tools Do you suggest the OP follow your instruction? Youtube vid? I'd love to see how you put up the entire bike not grips, seatpost and reflectors. Headset, bb, and bike adjustment would be a nice welcome.

It's true, I'm not as knowledgeable as you. If you don't like to build a bike with stand then don't. We are not as smart as you to know that you don't need to baby the carbon frame because it's strong and will not implode, who cares about the scratches on the new carbon frame build right? Who cares about torque, if you overtightened the bolts no problem, call it learning curve?

No, I've not build a bike without the bike stand before, or ever, why?. I learned it the easy way. I bought my first bike from LBS, then picked up a few tools as I go, now I have plenty. Except for facing and alignment tools, I have all of them to build the bike from the frame up, which I do all the time. Sometimes I build up a few bikes just for the heck of it, and yes, I still don't have the mad skillz you have. Next time I'm in NYC, I'd sure like so hook up and learn something from you.


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

Let me catch up guys.... you guys are all too helpful.... I just ordered some specialized s works carbon handlebars... is 640mm the correct length?


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

MadScientist said:


> Let me catch up guys.... you guys are all too helpful.... I just ordered some specialized s works carbon handlebars... is 640mm the correct length?


Personal preference. Long bars can always be cut shorter. Make sure you get proper clampsize on your stem. It mist likely is 31.8 as opposed to 25.4. Most importantly, don't torque those stem bolts without putting it in a stand first

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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

MadScientist said:


> Let me catch up guys.... you guys are all too helpful.... I just ordered some specialized s works carbon handlebars... is 640mm the correct length?


 Before you order you should pay a visit to a Specialized dealer and check out the options. Look around, see how they the bike's built, how they route cables, etc. I like wider bars for trail riding. My riser bars are around 680-750mm. Unless you are riding in a tight singletrack you can go with a bit wider bar. It's a personal preference so try both extreme one that too narrow and one that too wide, you'd figure out what you like pretty quick that way.

If you plan to do more trail riding/ AM then wider bar is usually the preference for most. Specialized only make 31.8(oopps) diameter so order the appropriate stem.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

mimi1885 said:


> Before you order you should pay a visit to a Specialized dealer and check out the options. Look around, see how they the bike's built, how they route cables, etc. I like wider bars for trail riding. My riser bars are around 680-750mm. Unless you are riding in a tight singletrack you can go with a bit wider bar. It's a personal preference so try both extreme one that too narrow and one that too wide, you'd figure out what you like pretty quick that way.


I guess u dont read, he already said he ordered it!

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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

MadScientist said:


> L I just ordered some specialized s works carbon handlebars... is* 640mm the correct length?*





cpfitness said:


> I guess u dont read, he already said he ordered it!


Oh yeah, he's not sure that's why he asked, and that why I answer in timely manner just in case he'd want to change.

Stop with the personal attack non-sense, it's getting old.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

mimi1885 said:


> Oh yeah, he's not sure that's why he asked, and that why I answer in timely manner just in case he'd want to change.
> 
> Stop with the personal attack non-sense, it's getting old.


Pointing out misinformation is not a personal areack

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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

cpfitness said:


> Pointing out misinformation is not a personal *areack*
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Hmmm!


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## Rod (Oct 17, 2007)

Oh wow, this thread is a complete mess. Where to start... don't order parts or frames before checking to make sure that is what you want. Post here before you order the parts. The frame may be too big or it may fit you great. Those size bars should be fine, especially since you already purchased them. I ride with bars that wide. 

For all of you new people. Mimi has very valid points. You can put a bike together without a stand and tune cables, but a bike stand makes life a lot easier. The OP can hang two hooks in the ceiling of his garage or whatever, but a brick on a 5 gallon bucket. Really? I would not want to set a frame worth 2k on that and work on it. That is ghetto.


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

Thanks again everyone.... I just figured the bars I purchased would be adequate for the situation... the bars are 640mm long... 31.8mm clamp.... 6 degree up sweep... and 8 degree back sweep.... low rise.... I had a few questions about brakes and gear sets and shifters. .. what is a good brake set up? Avid juicy ultimate carbon? I see the newer bikes run avid xo? Im not sure? I have a 9 speed sram xo rear derailleur and it is a long cage? A friend sold it to me for $30.... i would need 9 speed sram shifters for this correct? this should work right? Sorry for all the questions....


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

Rod said:


> Oh wow, this thread is a complete mess. Where to start... don't order parts or frames before checking to make sure that is what you want. Post here before you order the parts. The frame may be too big or it may fit you great. Those size bars should be fine, especially since you already purchased them. I ride with bars that wide.
> 
> For all of you new people. Mimi has very valid points. You can put a bike together without a stand and tune cables, but a bike stand makes life a lot easier. The OP can hang two hooks in the ceiling of his garage or whatever, but a brick on a 5 gallon bucket. Really? I would not want to set a frame worth 2k on that and work on it. That is ghetto.


Yea I am most definitely going to get a decent 360° swivel bicycle stand. I found some good ones for around $120 I am interested in.....


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

MadScientist said:


> T I had a few questions about brakes and gear sets and shifters. .. what is a good brake set up? Avid juicy ultimate carbon? I see the newer bikes run avid xo? Im not sure? I have a 9 speed sram xo rear derailleur and it is a long cage? A friend sold it to me for $30.... i would need 9 speed sram shifters for this correct? this should work right? Sorry for all the questions....


I'd suggest the shimano hydro brake. The new XT are very nice, but you can get much better deal with the older model which is still awesome. Juicy ultimate is not really that good, many(myself included) have issues with howling and vibration, the newer elixir cr was not better either, it came with my blur LTc.

SRAM xo are very nice they are 1:1 ratio vs shimano 2:1 rear shifting of course, the front are the same 1:1. Yes you'd need SRAM shifter, take your pick trigger or Gripshift.

What else do you plan to buy, next set of question should be fun wheels, forks, tires. Save some fund for a dropper post they are added fun for trail riding. What is your seatpost diameter 30.9 or 31.6?


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

mimi1885 said:


> I'd suggest the shimano hydro brake. The new XT are very nice, but you can get much better deal with the older model which is still awesome. Juicy ultimate is not really that good, many(myself included) have issues with howling and vibration, the newer elixir cr was not better either, it came with my blur LTc.
> 
> SRAM xo are very nice they are 1:1 ratio vs shimano 2:1 rear shifting of course, the front are the same 1:1. Yes you'd need SRAM shifter, take your pick trigger or Gripshift.
> 
> What else do you plan to buy, next set of question should be fun wheels, forks, tires. Save some fund for a dropper post they are added fun for trail riding. What is your seatpost diameter 30.9 or 31.6?


Seat post diameter is 30.9..... I plan on running spinergy xyclone wheelset.....


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## DavyRay (Apr 13, 2012)

MadScientist said:


> Thanks again everyone.... I just figured the bars I purchased would be adequate for the situation... the bars are 640mm long... 31.8mm clamp.... 6 degree up sweep... and 8 degree back sweep.... low rise.... I had a few questions about brakes and gear sets and shifters. .. what is a good brake set up? Avid juicy ultimate carbon? I see the newer bikes run avid xo? Im not sure? I have a 9 speed sram xo rear derailleur and it is a long cage? A friend sold it to me for $30.... i would need 9 speed sram shifters for this correct? this should work right? Sorry for all the questions....


There is a sticky thread in the Drivetrain forum about which derailleur with which shifter. The Brakes forum has lots of good information about which brakes various people are having problems with. The long cage is usually safe for most MTB uses. Some people adjust their gear choices so they can use a medium cage and shorten the chain some. Not me.

Exact match shifters are certainly the best choice. Are you going to run a front derailleur as well?


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## njoypow (Nov 23, 2012)

Dam I fell asleep and people went bonks. Thanks fer backin me up cpfitness...

And thanks for the negative points mimi1885.... you shud be proud of how awesome you are AND how many posts those little fingers can push out.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

OP, yes if you have the cash buy a repair stand. They are a great addition and you will use it forever! That being said, is a repair stand an absolute necessity? NO! Will it make life easier? Yes, especially when you get to dialing in your drive train. But I am sure many of you out there remember the days of just flipping your bike over on its seat and handlebars and working on it from there. Not ideal, but you can get the job done. OP, most of all, however you end up doing this build, have fun! You will no doubt be frustrated at times, but bikes aren't rocket science. Enjoy!


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

cpfitness said:


> you are such an unknolwedgeable person it's disgusting! lol, I didn't know I needed to make a youtube video of me sliding a seatpost into a tube and locking it down with a clamp. or putting my wheels on and shutting the quickreleases. WHY ON GODS GREEN EARTH DO YOU NEED A STAND TO BUILD A BIKE? explain the role that a stand plays in building a bike? I wonder if you've even ever built a bike with the answers you are giving, they are so ridiculous. And the fact that it's carbon is irrelevant. people act like carbon magically implodes during assembly without a torque wrench. torque wrenches are for inexperienced dummies. Have you ever seen someone use a torque wrench to put lugnuts on a car wheel? technically the instructions call for it, but people that have experience and know what they are doing don't need to do it.


Wow. So much anger. Building a bike up with a stand is easier than without a stand. It's a lot easier to face a head tube and install a headset when a frame is in a stand. It's also a lot easier to face a BB shell.

Speaking of unknowledgeable, your instructions on installing a bb are off a little bit. You didn't cover press fitting.

Your torque wrench analogy is a bit off too. First, any pro wrench (auto, bike, motorcycle, etc) will have a torque wrench in their toolbox.

Second, your example of lug nuts is flat out wrong. A mechanic absolutely uses the proper torque when installing lug nuts. You're likely too ignorant to realize that they install them w an impact wrench. And the impact wrench has a specific torque setting on it.

The OP is spending a lot of money to build up a sweet bike. Money doesn't appear to be a limiter. So buying a nice stand, while not required will make the build easier and will be used whenever he's wrenching on his bike.

Take it easy, Francis.

Sent from my rotary phone and compiled with a telegraph machine.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

Ken in KC said:


> Wow. So much anger. Building a bike up with a stand is easier than without a stand. It's a lot easier to face a head tube and install a headset when a frame is in a stand. It's also a lot easier to face a BB shell.
> 
> Speaking of unknowledgeable, your instructions on installing a bb are off a little bit. You didn't cover press fitting.
> 
> ...


Not anger at all, just passion and EMPHASIS. With the written word its difficult to always communicat the feel of what you are saying like what we can do in the spoken word so I use some caps from time to time. My dad was a mechanic, I was using impact wrenches when I was 5 years old. I can also tell you that with all of the different wheel types that the average shop isn't taking time to read manf specs and adjusting impact wrenches. it just aint happening. My dad had a SHITLOAD of torque wrenches in his toolbox. There were certain applications they would definately get used for but for run of the mill stuff they didn't come out of the box. Sorry, but I'm experienced, I don't need a torque wrench to install most parts on my bike though I may use it simply because one of my tool kits has a convenient set of hex bits to use with it.
As for money being a limiter, the op did state that he was trying to save a few dollars (to which we all informed him that building himself was NOT the way to do so) but If someone was trying to save money suggesting that they NEED to buy a stand is flat out silly!! An el cheap stand is probably still $50-75. The most difficult things to install for the inexperienced would be cranks and headsets, things that a LBS would charge $10-15 to do. IF you are looking to save money, have the shop install those, then put your wheelset on your bike and lean it up against something and bolt on the rest of your parts, it's really quite simple. I can't believe that this is even being debated!!!!!


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

cpfitness said:


> Not anger at all, just passion and EMPHASIS. With the written word its difficult to always communicat the feel of what you are saying like what we can do in the spoken word so I use some caps from time to time. My dad was a mechanic, I was using impact wrenches when I was 5 years old. I can also tell you that with all of the different wheel types that the average shop isn't taking time to read manf specs and adjusting impact wrenches. it just aint happening. My dad had a SHITLOAD of torque wrenches in his toolbox. There were certain applications they would definately get used for but for run of the mill stuff they didn't come out of the box. Sorry, but I'm experienced, I don't need a torque wrench to install most parts on my bike though I may use it simply because one of my tool kits has a convenient set of hex bits to use with it.
> As for money being a limiter, the op did state that he was trying to save a few dollars (to which we all informed him that building himself was NOT the way to do so) but If someone was trying to save money suggesting that they NEED to buy a stand is flat out silly!! An el cheap stand is probably still $50-75. The most difficult things to install for the inexperienced would be cranks and headsets, things that a LBS would charge $10-15 to do. IF you are looking to save money, have the shop install those, then put your wheelset on your bike and lean it up against something and bolt on the rest of your parts, it's really quite simple. I can't believe that this is even being debated!!!!!


Written communication is far more effective if you use paragraphs, not all caps (yelling).

I'm a little unclear on your point. It sounds like we're agreeing? That having a stand makes a bike build easier.

You seem to be struggling to read for context. The OP stated that a side benefit of the build up would be saving money, which was corrected by many here. But the reason for the build up was to learn how to build a bike, not paying someone to do it.

Installing a headset is really simple. You don't need to pay a shop to do it. It's a lot easier if you have a stand. A stand is something that you'll use as long as you're riding bikes. You don't need one, but it makes routine maintenance far easier.

And that was Mimi's point.

Sent from my rotary phone and compiled with a telegraph machine.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Cpfitness, I am gonna disagree a bit here. For the inexperienced I think adjusting front and rear der would be the most difficult and frustrating part of the build but still quick, cheap and easy at LBS. Yes, pressing cups should be done with the correct tools but not difficult. Correct spacing on the BB is imperative but most new BB come with very detailed instructions to become nearly a no-brainer. Also, Harbor Freight has torque wrenches for as little as $19.99...not the best but will do for the beginner.


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## mojo28246 (Aug 8, 2007)

njoypow said:


> Dam I fell asleep and people went bonks. Thanks fer backin me up cpfitness...
> 
> And thanks for the negative points mimi1885.... you shud be proud of how awesome you are AND how many posts those little fingers can push out.


What have you contributed to this post so far beside personally attacking mimi and suggest a backyard DIY crapper. Stop with the number of posts, mimi is a contributing member and the neg rep given to you is well deserved. If you are not comfortable being civil in this forum I'd suggest you go back to pinkbike.

Go back and read his first post, not only mimi did not shred op every said was true. If you want to build a bike get the stand and tools then go from there, it gets easier but there's a learning curve, even said that DIY stand is ok to most general work by experienced wrencher. What's wrong with that?

Not every noobs buy a two thousand dollars frame and want to build it up themselves, it can be done but not easy and certainly not with a crapper and misfit tools. Using the right tools is hard enough for noobs' first build and here you are goading op to do it with a poor suggestions, and got mad when people disagree, go figure.


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

mojo28246 said:


> What have you contributed to this post so far beside personally attacking mimi and suggest a backyard DIY crapper. Stop with the number of posts, mimi is a contributing member and the neg rep given to you is well deserved. If you are not comfortable being civil in this forum I'd suggest you go back to pinkbike.
> 
> Go back and read his first post, not only mimi did not shred op every said was true. If you want to build a bike get the stand and tools then go from there, it gets easier but there's a learning curve, even said that DIY stand is ok to most general work by experienced wrencher. What's wrong with that?
> 
> Not every noobs buy a two thousand dollars frame and want to build it up themselves, it can be done but not easy and certainly not with a crapper and misfit tools. Using the right tools is hard enough for noobs' first build and here you are goading op to do it with a poor suggestions, and got mad when people disagree, go figure.


Mojo: You must have missed that he was super helpful in his last post where he took what everyone else was saying and passed it off as if he had been the one saying it all along. Is that not helpful? I am glad you realized it was a crapper because I was super confused about what the bucket was for.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

HitmenOnlyInc said:


> Cpfitness, I am gonna disagree a bit here. For the inexperienced I think adjusting front and rear der would be the most difficult and frustrating part of the build but still quick, cheap and easy at LBS. Yes, pressing cups should be done with the correct tools but not difficult. Correct spacing on the BB is imperative but most new BB come with very detailed instructions to become nearly a no-brainer. Also, Harbor Freight has torque wrenches for as little as $19.99...not the best but will do for the beginner.


I agree that tuning deraileurs can take some work but i consider that tuning, not assembly of the bike. Yes adjusting on a stand is easier but again, flip your bike upside down and do what you gotta do or ride it on the block and tweak it which will let you see how its going to shift under load

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

MadScientist said:


> Thanks again everyone.... I just figured the bars I purchased would be adequate for the situation... the bars are 640mm long... 31.8mm clamp.... 6 degree up sweep... and 8 degree back sweep.... low rise.... I had a few questions about brakes and gear sets and shifters. .. what is a good brake set up? Avid juicy ultimate carbon? I see the newer bikes run avid xo? Im not sure? I have a 9 speed sram xo rear derailleur and it is a long cage? A friend sold it to me for $30.... i would need 9 speed sram shifters for this correct? this should work right? Sorry for all the questions....


I run the Avid Juicy Ultimate Carbon on my SJ and they work well. 203 front/185 rear Avid G2CS discs with metallic pads. The Avid Elixir series replaced the Juicys on the newer bikes.

Keep the X0 Rear derailleur unless you're going 10-spd. You'll need SRAM 9-speed shifters. X5 or better. I really recommend at least an X7 or X9 (metal thumb levers) for the shifters.

-S


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## mojo28246 (Aug 8, 2007)

cpfitness said:


> ;'
> I will echo others sentiments. Building from scratch and cost effective are two things that almost never go together. not to say that it can't be done, but it's awfully tough if you have no experience.





cpfitness said:


> dont let the naysayers dissuade you. if you want to start riding right away, buying a used bike is a better option. if your willing to take time to get it built and buy it part by part, then go for it. There are also a lot of speciality tools specific to bikes, particularly in the area of crank removal and installation and headset removal and installation so you not only need to buy parts, you need to buy the proper tools or have a bike shop do certain aspects of your install





cpfitness said:


> WHY ON GODS GREEN EARTH DO YOU NEED A STAND TO BUILD A BIKE? explain the role that a stand plays in building a bike? I wonder if you've even ever built a bike with the answers you are giving, they are so ridiculous. And the fact that it's carbon is irrelevant. people act like carbon magically implodes during assembly without a torque wrench. torque wrenches are for inexperienced dummies...technically the instructions call for it, but people that have experience and know what they are doing don't need to do it.





cpfitness said:


> I guess u dont read, he already said he ordered it!





MadScientist said:


> I dont want to get a bike off of craigslist.... I already have a great frame





cpfitness said:


> Sorry, but I'm experienced, I don't need a torque wrench to install most parts on my bike though I may use it simply because one of my tool kits has a convenient set of hex bits to use with it.
> 
> If someone was trying to save money suggesting that they NEED to buy a stand is flat out silly!! An el cheap stand is probably still $50-75. The most difficult things to install for the inexperienced would be cranks and headsets, things that a LBS would charge $10-15 to do. IF you are looking to save money, have the shop install those, then put your wheelset on your bike and lean it up against something and bolt on the rest of your parts, it's really quite simple. I can't believe that this is even being debated!!!!!





jrogs said:


> Mojo: You must have missed that he was super helpful in his last post where he took what everyone else was saying and passed it off as if he had been the one saying it all along. Is that not helpful? I am glad you realized it was a crapper because I was super confused about what the bucket was for.


I agree. cp Edumucation is out of this world, he's all over the map. Not only he's a self admitted clueless noob on the post he started in the forum however later in this thread he has become an expert bike builder. Even suggested op to buy a crappy bike from bd and transfer them to the new bike, what a noob move. Oh, flipping bike over to tune the drive train is just classic, cp you should stick with road riding and hybrids. I don't have the patience mimi has to be quite civil with him.

This is a noobs corners where good solid advices to noobs is needed and I think veterans like mimi, rod, ken as well as everyone except the 2 morons has painted a realistic pic for op. These 2 bring bad rep to noobs advising noobs.


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

I just ordered some avid 7 ultimate juicy carbon brakes f/r..... sram xo carbon shifters..... avid g3 clean sweep rotors 203/185 mm.... let the pile of parts begin


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

Yeah, bikes exolode when you rest them on the seat and handlebars, especially rugged mtbs. And i forgot, the xtr and x9 groupsets on bikes direct bikes are inferior to the ones on name brand bikes. Silly me. Im a moron. I havent built a dozen road bikes in the past 3 years and you know those mtb hex bolts are wayyyyy different than those road bike hex bolts. I dont know anything.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

MadScientist said:


> I just ordered some avid 7 ultimate juicy carbon brakes f/r..... sram xo carbon shifters..... avid g3 clean sweep rotors 203/185 mm.... let the pile of parts begin


Nice!! I picked up a used set of Juicy Ult 7's recently for spare parts - I should just rebuild those calipers and have them handy. My wife isn't too happy with my ever growing parts pile. I think I have enough parts to put together another bike soon.

-S


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

cpfitness said:


> Yeah, bikes exolode when you rest them on the seat and handlebars, especially rugged mtbs. And i forgot, the xtr and x9 groupsets on bikes direct bikes are inferior to the ones on name brand bikes. Silly me. Im a moron. I havent built a dozen road bikes in the past 3 years and you know those mtb hex bolts are wayyyyy different than those road bike hex bolts. I dont know anything.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Yeap, that the confirmation needed. When you see BD deals you just got tunnel vision and only see XTR, X9 components not all I might add, nevermind some come with road cassette, oem fork, god knows what wheelset, and generic headset that may not fit op's bike. To top them off without the bike stand he had to pay to take the parts off, in order to install it into his bike. If you are building a $300 road bike on the budget bike then it's one thing.

Looks to me like op is planing to build a $5000+ retail bike and the advice you have to offer him is lean it against the wall and flip the bike upside down to tune the drivetrain.


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

Lol I dont know about $5000... but I have $2500... I figure it will cost me that much to get a decent start and have some pics to post. This is actually fun and suspenseful waiting for parts... I am going to go to my lbs for install help if you tube cant help me.... I plan on buying a bike stand from my lbs so I am sure they will help... thanks again everyone.... this is getting addicting to say the least


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

Retail. Parts you picked so far were top of the line. 


Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

mimi1885 said:


> Yeap, that the confirmation needed. When you see BD deals you just got tunnel vision and only see XTR, X9 components not all I might add, nevermind some come with road cassette, oem fork, god knows what wheelset, and generic headset that may not fit op's bike. To top them off without the bike stand he had to pay to take the parts off, in order to install it into his bike. If you are building a $300 road bike on the budget bike then it's one thing.
> 
> Looks to me like op is planing to build a $5000+ retail bike and the advice you have to offer him is lean it against the wall and flip the bike upside down to tune the drivetrain.


Obviously you aren't too familiar with Bikes Direct. Yes, there are some bikes that are a mish mosh of parts, particularly on the lower end of the spectrum, as you move your way up the chain, they have many offerings that are specced high end all around. He's already stated that he has a frame, FD, and Shock. For someone who has never built a bike before, removing the parts from a frame is one of the BEST ways you can start to learn. Now he has told us he is looking to do this for $2500. For $2500 he could get this bike from bikes direct SRAM XO, 2x10 Speed 29er Carbon Fiber Front Suspension Mountain Bikes - MTB - 2013 Windsor C29 Team29er | SRAM XX hardtail mountain bikes | Save up to 60% off list prices on new bicycles

Which has very solid all around set of components for him to START riding on. He then has a carbon frame and Reba Shock he can resell. Perhaps the market for a carbon BD frame isn't that high but put the price right and someone will grab it. So he can probably recoup $5-700 from selling those items off. With that money he can buy himself another set of wheels and/or upgrade any parts that came from BD that he feels are deficient. At the rate the op is going it sounds like he is shooting to go pretty high end and I think he is gonna have some unpleasant surprises in his wallet! The little things of bike building really add up. IT's easy to think about wheels, cranks, shifters and derailleurs. But the little things like Seatpost, Seatpost clamp, pedals, saddle, handlebar, stem, tires, etc can really start adding up into the cost of a build.

I'm still in awe that you guys feel the need to tell people that a stand is an absolute necessity. You guys are more bougie than roadies!!! I'm surprised any of you even wrench your own bikes!!!!

I'm done fighting with you guys.

OP, post up the costs of the things you are ordering and keep a running tab. it will be fun to see.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

MadScientist said:


> I just ordered some avid 7 ultimate juicy carbon brakes f/r..... sram xo carbon shifters..... avid g3 clean sweep rotors 203/185 mm.... let the pile of parts begin


did you get the brakes from ebay or something without rotors? Avids rotors are priced crazy imho considering you can buy a bb7 road mechanical disc brake for $60 and it comes with a g3 rotor that would cost you $30 to buy standalone. Obviously you are going with larger rotors but ultimately,your brakes should come with rotors already, make sure you aren't buying twice!


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

OP that is a good set up so far. Should be fast. I don't think you should buy a 29er from bikes direct since there would be a ton of research to see if the parts would fit. And since specialized didn't make a carbon 29er stumpy in 09 I am guessing your frame is 26" so truly buying a 29er would be stupid. I am actually proud of you for doing a good job collecting parts despite cpfitness "help". I may have missed it if you have a front derailleur or not. Make sure you do research on the type of pull you need and the clamp size. I am still confused about the bucket. Can I get a picture of how you used a bucket and a brick to hold a bike?


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

cpfitness said:


> did you get the brakes from ebay or something without rotors? Avids rotors are priced crazy imho considering you can buy a bb7 road mechanical disc brake for $60 and it comes with a g3 rotor that would cost you $30 to buy standalone. Obviously you are going with larger rotors but ultimately,your brakes should come with rotors already, make sure you aren't buying twice!


That's a good on, honestly lol. you are one extreme couponing for mtb


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

jrogs said:


> Can I get a picture of how you used a bucket and a brick to hold a bike?


Me too.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

jrogs said:


> OP that is a good set up so far. Should be fast. I don't think you should buy a 29er from bikes direct since there would be a ton of research to see if the parts would fit. And since specialized didn't make a carbon 29er stumpy in 09 I am guessing your frame is 26" so truly buying a 29er would be stupid. I am actually proud of you for doing a good job collecting parts despite cpfitness "help". I may have missed it if you have a front derailleur or not. Make sure you do research on the type of pull you need and the clamp size. I am still confused about the bucket. Can I get a picture of how you used a bucket and a brick to hold a bike?


my mistake in using a 29er as an example for some reason i was thinking that is what he is building. The cost actually becomes even more advantageous when using a 26er from BD. They have an aluminum full suspension with SRAM XO components for $2100 as well as a Ti Hardtail for $2500 There is not a ton of research involved in figuring out if a bd bike will work. it's easy enough to look up specs of both bikes. his frame is here Specialized Bicycle Components 
first of all, shifters, brakes, and deraileur are definately going to work. bottom bracket shells are compatible. Sounds like he already has a headset since he has frame and fork already but the BD bike has a 1 1/8th headtube while his frame is tapered so that wouldn't work out of the box but again, he's already got a fork so he would be selling off the BD frame and fork (and would get more $$$ for it since he can sell it with the headset already installed. Looks like he also needs a new seatpost and seatpost clamp but he can keep the BD saddle. Over all the bulk of the parts he needs would carry over to the new bike. Again he can recoup close to a grand if he sells of a Ti hardtail frame with those extras he doesn't need and then reinvest it back into the bike. or he could simply keep the frame and make that part of his next project, perhaps rebuild it with lesser components for a beater bike. He has a lot of options. I'm sorry if you guys think I'm coming off as a know it all, I'm just trying to give the guy some options that include saving $$$$ and some simplicity all the while enabling him to learn how to wrench. Hell with the money he would save by stripping parts he could even afford a nice park tool workstand!  he's prepared to spend 2500 bucks, if he follows my advice he could have a high end rideable bike for $1250.


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

cpfitness said:


> my mistake in using a 29er as an example for some reason i was thinking that is what he is building. The cost actually becomes even more advantageous when using a 26er from BD. They have an aluminum full suspension with SRAM XO components for $2100 as well as a Ti Hardtail for $2500 There is not a ton of research involved in figuring out if a bd bike will work. it's easy enough to look up specs of both bikes. his frame is here Specialized Bicycle Components
> first of all, shifters, brakes, and deraileur are definately going to work. bottom bracket shells are compatible. Sounds like he already has a headset since he has frame and fork already but the BD bike has a 1 1/8th headtube while his frame is tapered so that wouldn't work out of the box but again, he's already got a fork so he would be selling off the BD frame and fork (and would get more $$$ for it since he can sell it with the headset already installed. Looks like he also needs a new seatpost and seatpost clamp but he can keep the BD saddle. Over all the bulk of the parts he needs would carry over to the new bike. Again he can recoup close to a grand if he sells of a Ti hardtail frame with those extras he doesn't need and then reinvest it back into the bike. or he could simply keep the frame and make that part of his next project, perhaps rebuild it with lesser components for a beater bike. He has a lot of options. I'm sorry if you guys think I'm coming off as a know it all, I'm just trying to give the guy some options that include saving $$$$ and some simplicity all the while enabling him to learn how to wrench. Hell with the money he would save by stripping parts he could even afford a nice park tool workstand!  he's prepared to spend 2500 bucks, if he follows my advice he could have a high end rideable bike for $1250.


Again, paragraphs are your friend.

And you're right, this could be a solution. But that's not what you said earlier. What you said was that Mimi was an idiot for suggesting that the op purchase a stand.

Sent from my rotary phone and compiled with a telegraph machine.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

Sorry if i dont stick to perfect grammar when typing on a phone. Ive been consistent in my answers all along yet ive been erroneously told im way off base. How much more must i post to prove my points?

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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

Ken in KC said:


> Again, paragraphs are your friend.
> 
> And you're right, this could be a solution. But that's not what you said earlier. What you said was that Mimi was an idiot for suggesting that the op purchase a stand.
> 
> Sent from my rotary phone and compiled with a telegraph machine.


Kindly show me where i called him an idiot? On the other hand i can show you where someone called me a moron!

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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

cpfitness said:


> Kindly show me where i called him an idiot? On the other hand i can show you where someone called me a moron!
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Cognitive dissonance? You've completely missed my point.

Stick around. Get to know some folks. Don't be a dick.

Sent from my rotary phone and compiled with a telegraph machine.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

Ken in KC said:


> Cognitive dissonance? You've completely missed my point.
> 
> Stick around. Get to know some folks. Don't be a dick.
> 
> Sent from my rotary phone and compiled with a telegraph machine.


Lol you dont have a point. I dont kiss anyone's ass. I havent resorted to name calling. Ive pointed out factual errors and been called a moron and now a dick. Total ********. Go reread the entire thread. People told the op it takes 6months to build a bike and he must have stand. Im the bad guy for calling ******** on that? I build bikes in an hour or 2 without a stand and im not a pro wrench! Now if you want to say it may take time to source parts and stuff like that? Fine but 6months? Lol.

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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

cpfitness said:


> Lol you dont have a point. I dont kiss anyone's ass. I havent resorted to name calling. Ive pointed out factual errors and been called a moron and now a dick. Total ********. Go reread the entire thread. People told the op it takes 6months to build a bike and he must have stand. Im the bad guy for calling ******** on that? I build bikes in an hour or 2 without a stand and im not a pro wrench! Now if you want to say it may take time to source parts and stuff like that? Fine but 6months? Lol.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Again w the cognitive dissonance. And I most certainly didn't call you a dick. Simply offering some advice.

I'm sorry your feelings are hurt.

Sent from my rotary phone and compiled with a telegraph machine.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

I agree man, you have missed the point. I have read the whole thread and yes, someone said that it could take 6 months if he were looking for deals and saving up. That was BEFORE the OP said how much he had to spend on the build. And not literally how long it would take to build the bike once he was in possession of all the parts. 

As far as repairs stands go, I don't recall anyone saying that he "must have" a repair stand. I myself said that they make life easier but not totally necessary. Why are you so against repair stands?? They are a worth while tool. Higher on the list of tools than a headset press, IMO.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

HitmenOnlyInc said:


> I agree man, you have missed the point. I have read the whole thread and yes, someone said that it could take 6 months if he were looking for deals and saving up. That was BEFORE the OP said how much he had to spend on the build. And not literally how long it would take to build the bike once he was in possession of all the parts.
> 
> As far as repairs stands go, I don't recall anyone saying that he "must have" a repair stand. I myself said that they make life easier but not totally necessary. Why are you so against repair stands?? They are a worth while tool. Higher on the list of tools than a headset press, IMO.


Mimi clearly stated that a repair stand was a must. All i said was that it was certainly not a must which he refuted. He then went on to ask how a crank could be installed without a stand. I answered him in detail. Im contemplating shooting a video of me removing and reinstalling my crank! This began as a discussion on doing a build to save money. That is the way I continue to approach it. Hell, i even advised the op that a first time builder will almost never realize any savings but certainly can learn a lot to save money down the road. Can we get this discussion back to helping a newbie build a bike because until someone can present concrete facts proving me wrong like ive done to others, im not backing down.

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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

It was not said that it takes 6 months of building. But if you are trying to save money it does take time to find a good deal on the specific parts that you would want. That is what takes the time. you advice has consisted of telling OP he doesn't need a stand when he has said he was going to get one and to buy another bike and harvest the mediocre parts and sell the rest. If he wanted to be stuck with parts that the company decided he could have bought a complete bike in the first place and it could be specialized and quality parts and not bikes direct parts.


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## ghettocop (Jul 26, 2011)

cpfitness said:


> you are such an unknolwedgeable person it's disgusting! lol, I didn't know I needed to make a youtube video of me sliding a seatpost into a tube and locking it down with a clamp. or putting my wheels on and shutting the quickreleases. WHY ON GODS GREEN EARTH DO YOU NEED A STAND TO BUILD A BIKE? explain the role that a stand plays in building a bike? I wonder if you've even ever built a bike with the answers you are giving, they are so ridiculous. And the fact that it's carbon is irrelevant. people act like carbon magically implodes during assembly without a torque wrench. torque wrenches are for inexperienced dummies. Have you ever seen someone use a torque wrench to put lugnuts on a car wheel? technically the instructions call for it, but people that have experience and know what they are doing don't need to do it.


"torque wrenches are for inexperienced dummies"? This is the worst advice I have ever heard on this site. Proper torque values on fasteners, (especially when mating to carbon) is paramount to a safe and reliable build.
The negative rep will be from me. You will be able to tell by the signature, and the fact that I used a Torque wrench set to 5.6 nm to give you proper rep.


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

ghettocop said:


> "torque wrenches are for inexperienced dummies"? This is the worst advice I have ever heard on this site. Proper torque values on fasteners, (especially when mating to carbon) is paramount to a safe and reliable build.
> The negative rep will be from me. You will be able to tell by the signature, and the fact that I used a Torque wrench set to 5.6 nm to give you proper rep.


LOL! The + rep will be from me. You will be able to tell by the signature...

Maybe the brick is used to ensure proper torque without a repair stand to secure the bike??


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

jrogs said:


> It was not said that it takes 6 months of building. But if you are trying to save money it does take time to find a good deal on the specific parts that you would want. That is what takes the time. you advice has consisted of telling OP he doesn't need a stand when he has said he was going to get one and to buy another bike and harvest the mediocre parts and sell the rest. If he wanted to be stuck with parts that the company decided he could have bought a complete bike in the first place and it could be specialized and quality parts and not bikes direct parts.


Again tell me how the xt, xtr, and xo parts from bikes direct are different from what the "name brands" put in their bikes. Nobody said anything about mediocre parts, just showing him how to get better prices on best stuff without spending "6months" looking. Lets get off the stand issue, for the last time you dont need a stand to build a bike, nice to have but unnecessary. He said hes gonna buy one, great. Stop putting words in my mouth and putting misinformation out there.

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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

ghettocop said:


> "torque wrenches are for inexperienced dummies"? This is the worst advice I have ever heard on this site. Proper torque values on fasteners, (especially when mating to carbon) is paramount to a safe and reliable build.
> The negative rep will be from me. You will be able to tell by the signature, and the fact that I used a Torque wrench set to 5.6 nm to give you proper rep.


Let me repeat myself. Torque wrenches are for inexperiences dummies. Id love to put a hidden camera on a pro wrench and see how often they use torque wrenches. Its CARBON fiber, not silk fiber. You know carbon, the same things diamonds come from. A little common sense goes a long way, the op is a mechanic by trade for chrissakes
Ps i also said torque wrenches arent crazy expensive like someone else made them out to be! Lol
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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

cpfitness said:


> Let me repeat myself. Torque wrenches are for inexperiences dummies. Id love to put a hidden camera on a pro wrench and see how often they use torque wrenches. Its CARBON fiber, not silk fiber. You know carbon, the same things diamonds come from. A little common sense goes a long way, the op is a mechanic by trade for chrissakes
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Also graphite...one of the softest known materials!


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

Ken and everyone I think I got it figured out. Grab some popcorn. 

Yes, I suggested the first thing to get is a bikestand it's no brainer, sop, then njoy said he uses a DIY contraption mojo finely referred to as a crapper. I asked how are you even going to install say a crankset and bb. Cp not understanding the context went on and explained how to do it.

I said, I can see that it can be done but not ideal. Not saying that bikestand is a must. He didn't get it. Now it's on, or how he put it? I'm not backing down. That's when we start seeing his flip flopping the context to fit his new agenda. 

See, he's a thin skin noobs who's not going to be told he's wrong. I'm quite certain 3 things would happen on this thread. 

One it would turn into a rep party, two, cp would be ban, and three, this would get binned. 


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

HitmenOnlyInc said:


> Also graphite...one of the softest known materials!


...and if you really want to nitpick, some types carbon fiber is also called "graphite fiber".....it all depends on what temperature it is made at - and also the manufacturer's sales guy selling the stuff to you.


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## ghettocop (Jul 26, 2011)

cpfitness said:


> Let me repeat myself. Torque wrenches are for inexperiences dummies. Id love to put a hidden camera on a pro wrench and see how often they use torque wrenches. Its CARBON fiber, not silk fiber. You know carbon, the same things diamonds come from. A little common sense goes a long way, the op is a mechanic by trade for chrissakes
> Ps i also said torque wrenches arent crazy expensive like someone else made them out to be! Lol
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Then I guess I will volunteer for you to put a "hidden camera" on me then. While I would not consider myself a "pro wrench", I do build bikes all day long for a major bike retailer. All day long the stem binder bolts, bar face-plate, cable anchor bolts, caliper mounting bolts, rotor mounting bolts, BB cups, crank bolts, seat post clamp bolts, etc, are all torqued to spec. I especially pay close attention to torque specs when building my personal stuff.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

mimi1885 said:


> Ken and everyone I think I got it figured out. Grab some popcorn.
> 
> Yes, I suggested the first thing to get is a bikestand it's no brainer, sop, then njoy said he uses a DIY contraption mojo finely referred to as a crapper. I asked how are you even going to install say a crankset and bb. Cp not understanding the context went on and explained how to do it.
> 
> ...


lol, why would I get banned, I'm not the one being antagonizing and doing name calling. I continually try to present facts. on 2 occassions you said a stand was a must before finally conceding that you've never built a bike without one but supposed it could be done. I'd love to know what I've flip flopped on? Bottom line, I could take the op's frame and build it to a reasonably high end spec in under 1 month and under 1500 bucks. I'm saying one month because I'm allowing for time to sell off parts under my donor bike scenario. Personally, I think the op is making a big mistake in going high end on his first build for a few reasons.

1. my personal opinion is that you should start on lower end bikes to help develop a feel and appreciation for the better bikes.
2. Expensive high end parts often aren't the BEST part for us casual riders. i.e. if your a pro racer with sponsorship that doesn't have to pay for parts, you will go with lightweight over durable parts that function equally well. 
3, If he truly takes on this endeavor solo and makes a serious mistake it could be very costly. I'd rather strip a thread on a Suntour crank than a XTR crank. I don't expect this to happen he's an experienced mechanic but still, it's possible.

Obviously the op probably should re-evaluate what his ultimate goals are. You don't expect someone to say "I've never ridden a bike before, I want to build my own to save money.....oh and by the way, I want to build it with all the highest end parts that exist" Quite frankly, I think it's a foolish endeavor but when involved in forums I do my best to try to answer the questions that are asked not just inject my opinion on the question being asked.

you guys seem to derive so much pleasure from your forum rantings. I have no friggin idea what this whole "rep" thing even is and really dont give a **** if I have any or not. And I love being called a noob. just because I"m new to your forum doesn't make me new to the world of cycling. you keep building your over priced bikes and I'll keep building my value bikes that equally or outperform yours.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

cpfitness said:


> Again tell me how the xt, xtr, and xo parts from bikes direct are different from what the "name brands" put in their bikes. Nobody said anything about mediocre parts, just showing him how to get better prices on best stuff without spending "6months" looking. Lets get off the stand issue, for the last time you dont need a stand to build a bike, nice to have but unnecessary. He said hes gonna buy one, great. Stop putting words in my mouth and putting misinformation out there.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Hmmm! You are really a noob. The $2500 bd bike advertised 3x10 XTR dynaSys contain only a few XTR parts. Fsa cranks and bb, ultegra 11-28 cassette and knc chain and the list just keeps growing. Slipping grip? Op would ended up spending dollars tryoing to save pennies.

You are not the first genius to have the eureka moment, also why at the beginning and the end on the riding season bd's frames are flooding ebay and CL.

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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

ghettocop said:


> Then I guess I will volunteer for you to put a "hidden camera" on me then. While I would not consider myself a "pro wrench", I do build bikes all day long for a major bike retailer. All day long the stem binder bolts, bar face-plate, cable anchor bolts, caliper mounting bolts, rotor mounting bolts, BB cups, crank bolts, seat post clamp bolts, etc, are all torqued to spec. I especially pay close attention to torque specs when building my personal stuff.


in all honesty, I have no beef with using a torque wrench. considering the bulk of things like stem bolts, deraileur clamps, bottle cages and shifter and brake levers all use a couple of different sized bolts, it's super easy to use a torque wrench. If I spent a ton of money on a high end carbon frame, I would take out my torque wrench and be safe rather than sorry. But as it pertains to the general buildability of a bike, plenty of bikes on the road are doing just fine without torque wrenches being used on them, even carbon bikes.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

mimi1885 said:


> Hmmm! You are really a noob. The $2500 bd bike advertised 3x10 XTR dynaSys contain only a few XTR parts. Fsa cranks and bb, ultegra 11-28 cassette and knc chain and the list just keeps growing. Slipping grip? Op would ended up spending dollars trying to save pennies.
> 
> You are not the first genius to have the eureka moment, also why at the beginning and the end on the riding season bd's frames are flooding ebay and CL.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk


The bike I was referencing is here Save up to 60% off Titanium Mountain Bikes - 2011 Motobecane Fly Titanium

Lets look at all the specs. Kindly tell me what is wrong with FSA K-light carbon cranks??? thats an upgrade from xtr in a lot of peoples books! ANd obviously if you have an FSA crank it's going to come with it's matching BB! and are you really going to complain about a kmc chain? lol give me a break! the brand of chain should be the least of your worries, its the cheapest part of the drivetrain!

The bike comes with XTR Shifters, Front and Rear Deraileurs and an XT 11-36 cassette. Oh yeah by the way, this is all latest and greatest 10spd drivetrain, not previous generation 9 speed. now I know there is absolutely nothing wrong with 9speed and it is preferable to many but since the op seems to be interested in building up a high end machine, why wouldn't we want latest and greatest technology??
Avid XO brakes and Ritchey WCS bars, stem, seatpost etc round out the bike. Thats a pretty high end build. Not the highest, we don't hve carbon bars, stem, etc but cmon, the guy said he was trying to build himself to save a few bucks. The first place you save in doing a build is by going with quality aluminum over carbon(half the time aluminum parts weight the same as their carbon counterparts)


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

Chains are much more expensive than front derailleur. So $2500 for handlebars, stem, saddle, shifters, derailleurs, brakes and rotors, tires and tubes, maybe front derailleur, maybe seat post and clamp. Since he already has rims and a fork. That is a good deal? Then have to sell off the other parts. You could get the SRAM xo groupo brand new for $1500 without shopping around and don't need to sell anything.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

I'm done, op my pm box is open if you want straight talk and advice about how to build up a bike. I'm sure that we all want you to have a successful build but somewhere along the way we all forgot that there are multiple ways to skin a cat. As a fellow clydesdale, I can offer you insight into some of the durabilty issues bikes will present to you as they are numerous.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

jrogs said:


> Chains are much more expensive than front derailleur. So $2500 for handlebars, stem, saddle, shifters, derailleurs, brakes and rotors, tires and tubes, maybe front derailleur, maybe seat post and clamp. Since he already has rims and a fork. That is a good deal? Then have to sell off the other parts. You could get the SRAM xo groupo brand new for $1500 without shopping around and don't need to sell anything.


an xtr FD is way more expensive than an xtr chain. fortunately the op already has an FD.
so we buy the sram group for $1500 and then your going to pay for wheels, tires, bars, seatpost, saddle etc. so before you know it, you are back at 2500 bucks and you don't have an extra frame and fork to show for it. yes selling off the parts is work, but if your trying to save money, this is the way to do it no?


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

cpfitness said:


> The bike I was referencing is here Save up to 60% off Titanium Mountain Bikes - 2011 Motobecane Fly Titanium
> 
> Lets look at all the specs. Kindly tell me what is wrong with FSA K-light carbon cranks??? thats an upgrade from xtr in a lot of peoples books! ANd obviously if you have an FSA crank it's going to come with it's matching BB! and are you really going to complain about a kmc chain? lol give me a break! the brand of chain should be the least of your worries, its the cheapest part of the drivetrain!
> 
> ...


My apology, why would I expect you to even give an intelligence respond on the topic was beyond me. Let's not talk tech, clearly we'd be going back and forth between sour grapes syndrome and bunch of assumption based on your personal life.

This collective education bits has taught you much already and you don't even have the appreciation for it. I guess we just have to agree to disagree, and I'll let you go get free education from someone else

Go ahead I'll let you have the last word on the subject.


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

I googled the chain from your bike $77 and the front derailleur $65. He already has rims. You may need a different seat post anyway. And all of the parts would be SRAM xo. And I am not certain on an cut groupo price. So damn he doesn't have a frame to sell but his current bike would be sweet. So yeah he would still have to buy handlebars, tires, and stem and a few little things but he has probably 500 dollars to do that with after selling the other stuff. And this bike would be way more awesome than the bikes direct bike. And that is without shopping around. I am sure you could find it cheaper.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

mimi1885 said:


> My apology, why would I expect you to even give an intelligence respond on the topic was beyond me. Let's not talk tech, clearly we'd be going back and forth between sour grapes syndrome and bunch of assumption based on your personal life.
> 
> This collective education bits has taught you much already and you don't even have the appreciation for it. I guess we just have to agree to disagree, and I'll let you go get free education from someone else


I've got no problem with agreeing to disagree but it also wouldn't hurt you to simply say "your right" rather than make continued smart ass remarks. I;ve constantly asked questions that have gone unanswered all the while I"ve provided concrete examples to back up my arguments. I guess I didn't go to fancy enough schools; in my school that was how we were taught to debate. With facts. This thread has turned more into a presedential debate! I am not a cycling noob, I know PLENTY about road and MTB drivetrains. I've got numerous road bikes and I've got a touring bike with a complete MTB drivetrain. What I'm a noob on is the suspension stuff and the actual serious offroad riding skills. I welcome the opportunity to learn about that stuff but as I mentioned, I'm not going to sit back and allow myself to be insulted for presenting factual data. I'm quite sure you want the op to have a successful build and ride his bike for years to come, hopefully we can at least agree on that!


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

jrogs said:


> I googled the chain from your bike $77 and the front derailleur $65. He already has rims. You may need a different seat post anyway. And all of the parts would be SRAM xo. And I am not certain on an cut groupo price. So damn he doesn't have a frame to sell but his current bike would be sweet. So yeah he would still have to buy handlebars, tires, and stem and a few little things but he has probably 500 dollars to do that with after selling the other stuff. And this bike would be way more awesome than the bikes direct bike. And that is without shopping around. I am sure you could find it cheaper.


I've seen XTR chains for 45 bucks but the xtr FD's are usually at least 60 but yeah they are pretty close. the FD and chain are the smallest ticket items in the drivetrain. He mentioned getting spinergy wheels, didnt say that he already had them so I assume that is another purchase. I looked up those wheels, there is nothing too special about them, probably a lateral move at best from the bd wheels. By the way, there is another Bikesdirect bike that is SRAM XO. I was using XTR as an example but look at this one. IT's only 2100 because it's alloy frame not titanium. 
Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Fantom Team SRAM XO 2x10 20 Speed 2011

so he could get all SRAM XO except the crank (the fsa is a better crank anyways) and still have the sweet bike that you are mentioning, then sell the frame and fork and the only little part he would have to buy is a seatpost because it's not going to fit. In your scenario he spends about $1500 and gets SRAM XO Groupset including the brakes but has no wheels. The wheels he is looking at are a $500 wheelset and anything custom built new for his weight (240lbs) is gonna cost around that unless he decides to build them himself which is totally doable.
so he needs to still spend the following 
Wheels $500
Ritchey WCS alloy seatpost 75
Ritchey WCS alloy 4axis stem $75
Ritchey WCS Handlebar $75
Ritchey Streem Saddle $75
When all is said and done, he is probably spending about 2300 bucks.

In my scenario he spends $2100 + $75 for a proper sized seat post and gets SRAM XO shiters and RD, FSA Crank that is as good if not better than SRAM and a set of wheels with tires and all of the little things except a seatpost. The trade off is that he does get a lesser level of brakes but in my scenario he has a bike that can be ridden! in yours his bike is still in the stand waiting for a set of wheels and tires. He will then have a frame, Reba Fork, headset, front derailleur and seatpost that he can sell off. If he doesn't want a long drawn out hassle of getting that stuff sold he could advertise it all for $500 and i'm sure it would sell in a day. 1 week max. If he's willing to wait, he may get a lot more. So in my scenario he is riding his bike for $1675 with high end parts. With the $625 he has saved he can upgrade the brakes if he finds they aren't to his liking and he can also consider upgrading other bits to really high end finishes i.e. carbon bars.

Lets not forget that if he doesn't sell off the frame he has paid the same amount of money but now he's got a few parts. he might wreck his carbon frame 6 months down the road and need somthign to ride while he waits for a warranty repair. he's got a frame to throw it all on. He might decide that he loves his full suspension high end bike but wants a hard tail for another purpose, he's now got a chassis to build off of. This is one of the ways that we all start amassing our bike stuff and parts bins.

Never underestimate the cost of those "little things" that was the first thing I learned when building my first bike up. Thought I had everything good to go and then it was like "oh yeah, I need a couple of tubes $10 oops forgot pedals $25 oh dammit, i bought tubes but forgot rim tape $10, damn I got the shifters but forgot the cable housing $10, oh yeah I bought the saddle but what about the post and the clamp $30. I was doing a budget build and suddenly I was adding on another $100 of little things. Now start doing it with high end stuff and your costs go through the roof. I realize that my scenario isn't the simplest; but if your trying to learn how to work on bikes and you are trying to save a little money in the process while builiding high end, its one of the only ways to go. His other option is to source all used parts. I have no problem buying used road bike parts with some limits, but I'd be a bit more wary buying used MTB parts due to the amount of abuse they potentially get subjected to.


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

I would have to shop around more to make a better comparison but that setup seems to make a little more sense if that was the way you wanted to go. I don't know anything about the rims either but from the looks of them and if OP is a Clydesdale I would research their durability.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

nothing wrong at all with shopping around. If you are willing to build from used parts and not build quite as high end, you can build up a very solid ride for short money using used and take off parts. Below is a summary of the build i'm doing now. I'm under $1000 and while I definately need to replace the fork on this, it's a solid build with pretty high end componentry for the riding i'm doing and durable for my size (250lbs)

diamondback trace alu frame, suntour xct v2 crank, nvx susp fork, headset, stem $150 brand new (bike was obviously not ridden, parts stripped off immediately for another bike. I plan to sell the crank to recoup $30-40)
slx m660 triple crank brand new $140 off craigslist
slx m660 shifters brand new (may be takeoffs from new bike) $57
xt m781 fd brand new $37 from nashbar
xt m780 sgs rd used one season from mtbr classifieds $40 (i have a deal in place to get a brand new xtr for $100, i'm considering it)
xtr chain lightly used $25 from craigslist
avid elixir 5 hydraulic brakes brand new take offs from ebay, rotors not included $129
used velo saddle $10 from craigslist
wtb laser tcs trail 29" wheelset $236 brand new from chainlove
sram pg-1050 10-speed cassette $43 brand new from nashbar
handlebar and grips brand new $20 from nashbar
wellgo pedals brand new free (came with my new road bike purchase last year)
brake rotors free (lbs mechanic friend hookup)
185mm brake avid g3 cleansweep rotor (upgrade from freebie 160mm) $10craigslist
shift housing free (lbs mechanic friend hookup)
seatpost free (had one in my parts bin from old project)
seatpost clamp free (lbs mechanic friend hookup)
geax mezcal tnt tubeless compatible 29 x 2.1 tires $60 from chainlove

Total spent $957

I'm not knocking the op, if you've got the money to go big with your first build, great. I'm shooting for a combo of solid entry level performance with the understanding that as rider I have a lot to learn about what style of riding i'm going to like and gravitate for. I don't want to spend $3000 on a xc bike only to find out that I really want a bad ass downhill bike. Likewise, I don't want a total entry level $400 bike that can't accelerate or has parts that are flat out going to break under my weight. I think my build hits a nice sweet spot. I oculd have bought something similar but I enjoy the build process and the feeling of knowing that what I'm riding is my creation


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## mojo28246 (Aug 8, 2007)

cpfitness said:


> I've got no problem with agreeing to disagree but it also wouldn't hurt you to simply say "your right" rather than make continued smart ass remarks. I;ve constantly asked questions that have gone unanswered all the while I"ve provided concrete examples to back up my arguments. I guess I didn't go to fancy enough schools; in my school that was how we were taught to debate. With facts. This thread has turned more into a presedential debate! I am not a cycling noob, I know PLENTY about road and MTB drivetrains. I've got numerous road bikes and I've got a touring bike with a complete MTB drivetrain. What I'm a noob on is the suspension stuff and the actual serious offroad riding skills. I welcome the opportunity to learn about that stuff but as I mentioned, I'm not going to sit back and allow myself to be insulted for presenting factual data. I'm quite sure you want the op to have a successful build and ride his bike for years to come, hopefully we can at least agree on that!


You are kidding right? Mimi's first respond to you was yes it can be done but not ideal, what more do you want, a press conference?

What questions have you ask and not answer already. You have been passing your opinion as concrete examples and facts. Oh need me to point it out?

Don't need bike stand to build a bike, is that the fact for all or just convenient for some who does not have one.

Torque wrench are for inexperienced dummies, nuff said.

Carbon fiber is so strong you don't need a torque wrench, the reason why manufacture put the torque spec for their parts is not because people don't tighten enough, it people over-tighten to the point that it would damage parts.

Buy a bd bike and swap parts would be cheaper? At best is only for you and a few inexperienced dummies I guess, especially if one wants a 2x10 xtr.

Your blabbing about the bd parts list trying to make sense of the Fact that the bike was advertised as "shimano dynasys 2x10 xtr but does not
Come with the xtr cranks.

Is that the fact that Fsa k-light carbon crank an upgrade from xtr? Shimano probably spent more on drivetrain r&d than Fsa make in sales a year, the fact is why bother advertising dynasys xtr, then put another brand crankset "upgrade".

Flip-flop, first it was do it get proper tools its difficult, then it's so easy no stand needed, then it's not a good idea to do it cause you can eff' up the parts.

Am I the only one who see this?


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

Mojo: absolutely not lost on me I just gave up. And rims are usually a huge investment and difficult to sell due to everyone wanting certain rims. So why would you buy a bike with mediocre rims just to have to get others. The lack of usable parts from the bd bike is why I would find it suspect that you would save a bunch of money over building a bike the way you want it. Once again if you are going to just use the parts that are provided for you why not buy a complete stumpjumper? And not have to deal with speculating how much you can get for the parts you sell. Isn't the reason to build a bike to customize it to your liking since it is well established you don't save much money. I also recommend setting it up with a true UST tubeless setting since you are building it from scratch and get to choose your parts but that again is just a personal preference.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

jrogs said:


> Mojo: absolutely not lost on me I just gave up. And rims are usually a huge investment and difficult to sell due to everyone wanting certain rims. So why would you buy a bike with mediocre rims just to have to get others. The lack of usable parts from the bd bike is why I would find it suspect that you would save a bunch of money over building a bike the way you want it. Once again if you are going to just use the parts that are provided for you why not buy a complete stumpjumper? And not have to deal with speculating how much you can get for the parts you sell. Isn't the reason to build a bike to customize it to your liking since it is well established you don't save much money. I also recommend setting it up with a true UST tubeless setting since you are building it from scratch and get to choose your parts but that again is just a personal preference.


Do you have any idea what the MSRP was on the complete version of the op's frame? It's well over 5k.

Why do you "find it suspect" that you can save by taking parts from the bikes direct bike? Did I not lay down some pretty concrete numbers? What is this lack of usable parts of which you speak? in my scenario the bulk of the bikes direct parts are useable. And I agree with you on Wheels (btw, they are wheels we are talking about, not simply Rims) it is an investment and a lot of personal preference. But every avid cyclist I know, no matter what discipline of cycling has at least 2 sets of wheels, sometimes more. A lot of people like to keep the cheapo wheels as "training wheels" and lets be honest here, what is the one area that almost ALL bike companies skimp on when putting together a bike? It's the wheels. So even if you buy a high end bike, be prepared to upgrade those right off the bat.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

mojo28246 said:


> You are kidding right? Mimi's first respond to you was yes it can be done but not ideal, what more do you want, a press conference?
> 
> What questions have you ask and not answer already. You have been passing your opinion as concrete examples and facts. Oh need me to point it out?
> 
> ...


Who are you his body guard? Why are you even butting in and voicing your thoughts on this? He and I handled it, it's squashed. We agree to disagree.

As for bikes direct, what do you want from them? they have a simple business model. They give a brief description of the bike. yeah it will say 2x10 xtr or 3x10 XO or whatever the case may be. That is a general description. Then you click on the bike and you can get a full and complete spec list. You act as if they are trying to falsely advertise. Just because Shimano spends a buttload more money doesn't automatically mean their cranks are any better than FSA. I'm not privvy to the business dealings between bikes direct and their suppliers. perhaps shimano isn't willing to cut them as good a deal on the cranks as FSA does. Who knows. The bottom line is they have a very good offering at a very attractive price. They certainly aren't for everybody.

I'm in the fitness and golf biz. I routinely play with high level CEO's who have the worst fitting clubs but they would never consider going to component or off brand clubs because as big shots, they want to be seen with the latest and greatest Taylor Made clubs in their bags even if they would actually score better with the no name clubs. I see the same things in the bike world all the time. Blowing by my friend on his $6000 Madone with Reynolds tubulars cracks me up as I do it on my $1900 Motobecane with no name chinese carbon tubulars.


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## mojo28246 (Aug 8, 2007)

cpfitness said:


> Do you have any idea what the MSRP was on the complete version of the op's frame? It's well over 5k.
> 
> Why do you "find it suspect" that you can save by taking parts from the bikes direct bike? Did I not lay down some pretty concrete numbers? What is this lack of usable parts of which you speak? in my scenario the bulk of the bikes direct parts are useable. And I agree with you on Wheels (btw, they are wheels we are talking about, not simply Rims) it is an investment and a lot of personal preference. But every avid cyclist I know, no matter what discipline of cycling has at least 2 sets of wheels, sometimes more. A lot of people like to keep the cheapo wheels as "training wheels" and lets be honest here, what is the one area that almost ALL bike companies skimp on when putting together a bike? It's the wheels. So even if you buy a high end bike, be prepared to upgrade those right off the bat.


That's why many don't buy highend complete bike. I build them up, and the same reason why many highend bikes does not come with pedals. None of my bikes were bought as a complete bikes, including road and tri bikes.

Here we go again with your concrete example about saving money on take off parts on bd's bike part swap, if I want XTR, I want xtr components not a few and the rest with "upgrade as in I think it's better than XTR"


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

mojo28246 said:


> That's why many don't buy highend complete bike. I build them up, and the same reason why many highend bikes does not come with pedals. None of my bikes were bought as a complete bikes, including road and tri bikes.
> 
> Here we go again with your concrete example about saving money on take off parts on bd's bike part swap, if I want XTR, I want xtr components not a few and the rest with "upgrade as in I think it's better than XTR"


Thats fine if that is what you want. I would advise you differently. The OP is new to the game and is looking to save a few dollars yet still have a nice bike. I have the utmost confidence that my scenario does that. If you were to shop around and look for the best prices on all the things that come on the bike I used as an example you would most certainly end up spending more buying all the items piecemeal. Sorry if I came off as sounding like my way is the only way. Wasn't my intent. I just happen to believe that for someone that doesn't have a bike at all that my idea is the best combination of learning to build, getting it done expeditiously and saving a few dollars in the process.


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

cpfitness said:


> Thats fine if that is what you want. I would advise you differently. The OP is new to the game and is looking to save a few dollars yet still have a nice bike. I have the utmost confidence that my scenario does that. If you were to shop around and look for the best prices on all the things that come on the bike I used as an example you would most certainly end up spending more buying all the items piecemeal. Sorry if I came off as sounding like my way is the only way. Wasn't my intent. I just happen to believe that for someone that doesn't have a bike at all that my idea is the best combination of learning to build, getting it done expeditiously and saving a few dollars in the process.


I thought you said you were leaving this conversation and that you'd said all that needed to be said?

Like a Pit Bull, you've latched on to saving money from the very first post and won't let it go. The op clarified what he meant. Let me simplify it for you:

1. It's his first bike. 
2. He's not on a budget but also doesn't want to overspend. 
3. He wants to spec great (not good, great) components for the bike. 
4. He wants to build the bike up for himself and take some pride in ownership. 
5. He's asked this forum for help in accomplishing 1-4.

You've offered advice that not everyone agrees with. Your approach adds a degree of complexity and is kind of a pita, even for experienced cyclists. It may work for some, but certainly not all. It saves money but also doesn't result in accomplishing 100% of 1-4.

Rather than accepting that not everyone agrees with your advice, you're acting butt hurt and insisting that your approach is the best approach because it's the one that works for you, so obviously it is the best for everyone here.

Another piece of knowledge for you: there are a lot of people here that disagree with my advice. Some times, my advice sucks or is flat out wrong, despite my best intentions. And when that happens, I apologize and own up to my sucky suggestion.

There are a lot of really knowledgable mountain bikers in the Beginner's Forum. For the most part, they have 1 purpose for being here: provide a knowledge base for entry level mountain bikers and to encourage them to get down with the sickness. You have to have some pretty thick skin and come in with proper advice for beginners more often than not. You'll get called on your opinion when it's wrong or if someone doesn't agree with you.

There are very few "best" answers. The best component? The best approach to a bike build? The best way to purchase parts? The best bike? All subjective. So when you provide your opinion as a fact, you're going to get called on it. 100% of the time. And should you become defensive and argumentative when you're called on it, people will not only continue to call you on it, but they also won't trust your advice, whether it's proper or not.

Welcome. Stick around. Offer advice. But check your cycling ego at the door because in here, it's going to get bruised.

Sent from my rotary phone and compiled with a telegraph machine.


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

The best thing the OP could do for his bike build is to leave this thread. Hehe


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

I am getting dizzy! When will this merry-go-round stop? Nobody knows!


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## mojo28246 (Aug 8, 2007)

cpfitness said:


> As for bikes direct, what do you want from them? they have a simple business model. They give a brief description of the bike. yeah it will say 2x10 xtr or 3x10 XO or whatever the case may be. That is a general description. Then you click on the bike and you can get a full and complete spec list. You act as if they are trying to falsely advertise. Just because Shimano spends a buttload more money doesn't automatically mean their cranks are any better than FSA. I'm not privvy to the business dealings between bikes direct and their suppliers. perhaps shimano isn't willing to cut them as good a deal on the cranks as FSA does. Who knows. The bottom line is they have a very good offering at a very attractive price. They certainly aren't for everybody.
> 
> I'm in the fitness and golf biz. I routinely play with high level CEO's who have the worst fitting clubs but they would never consider going to component or off brand clubs because as big shots, they want to be seen with the latest and greatest Taylor Made clubs in their bags even if they would actually score better with the no name clubs. I see the same things in the bike world all the time. Blowing by my friend on his $6000 Madone with Reynolds tubulars cracks me up as I do it on my $1900 Motobecane with no name chinese carbon tubulars.


Ken he's going to call you my bodyguard now Well said btw.

Bike direct mislead the customers, I don't have any problem with BD as long as they stay in their forum, once the gospel spread in of all the place, beginner's corner something need to be said. If they are so great why keep comparing to the big brands at much higher retail, especially when it clearly not the same frame performance and spec. XTR is not better than FSA, show me the prove, cause the prove I've got is they shift better and smoother, look it up bike mag, mba, mbuk, etc. If you say they are not lighter may be, I'll bite.

When they compare their ti HT to Seven or Moots, can you tell me it's BD is as good, yeah, you can't only few can because no one is going to check and compare. I can tell, not only the product but the buying experience. Bottom line, it is what it is, you are getting the bike at the value of price listed not more, get your calculator out and you'll see. Boy for someone who's stingy you are easily doops.

I'm glad you brought up golf, my forte. Callaway/TM knock offs look just like the real thing why they perform so poorly. When you play rounds of golf with the high CEO is that twilight and on the municipal course? People have their way of spending their hard earn money, who are you to judge the way do spend or what, how and why? They are not spending your money or mine.

Spare me the pathetic rhetoric, I ride cheapo bike and still beat my friends who ride a $6000 bike, he beats you repeatedly by making more money every paycheck, have you ever thought of that. I'm a scratched, I'd play any mismatch golf clubs with anyone on any course, well except the one with the old raggy clubs and bag with brand new tacky grips

I saved a boat load of money buying Shimano's components on my bikes. Since I travel to Asia regularly, I just find my hook up and buy there. I put the brand new XT groupo on my bike a many weeks before Jensen USA started stocking them and I paid less than half price for it. I'm not the only one who does this btw. But that's not practical for op, or the direction he's heading.

That said I still buy from my lbs because I like them, they treat their customer very well, and I want them to be around a long time. Not everyone is a nickle'n'dime type like you, I shop for good deal but they are not the only thing I shop.


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

HitmenOnlyInc said:


> I am getting dizzy! When will this merry-go-round stop? Nobody knows!


I don't know... they still seem to be arguing about something on the interwebz....


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

Oh and the basic stumpjumper MSRP is 4g not well over 5g.


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

jrogs said:


> Oh and the basic stumpjumper MSRP is 4g not well over 5g.


The basic cf stump jumper is only $4k? Sweet. I'll take two.

Sent from my rotary phone and compiled with a telegraph machine.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

MadScientist said:


> I have decided on picking up an xl 2009 stumpjumper pro carbon frame.... it comes with s120 forks


BikePedia - 2009 specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro Carbon Complete Bicycle

Bicycle Type	Mountain bike, front & rear suspension
MSRP (new)	$5,500.00

Next question.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

My responses to you below in *bold*


mojo28246 said:


> Ken he's going to call you my bodyguard now Well said btw.
> 
> Bike direct mislead the customers,*How so? They state what the full specs and geometry are on each one of their bikes. The advertised price is the price, inclusive of shipping and no sales tax in 49 states. Very straightforward. Onus is certainly on the consumer to be versed in bike components and assembly or be willing to pay for someone to assemble* I don't have any problem with BD as long as they stay in their forum, once the gospel spread in of all the place, beginner's corner something need to be said. If they are so great why keep comparing to the big brands at much higher retail, especially when it clearly not the same frame performance and spec. *Arguing about frame performance is certainly pretty subjective. In terms of spec, many would argue that 6000 and 7000 series aluminum are the same. in some cases a company like Kinesis is making their frames and they also make frames for the big name companies. But I will say that just because the same company is manufacturing doesn't mean it's being made to the same specs. However, we aren't even discussing using the frame off of this bike so its not really worth of discussion* XTR is not better than FSA, show me the prove, cause the prove I've got is they shift better and smoother, look it up bike mag, mba, mbuk, etc. If you say they are not lighter may be, I'll bite. *I think you mean to say that FSA is not better than XTR. Perhaps it isn't but it's still a very good crankset, certainly better than a standard Deore, alivio, etc.*
> 
> ...


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/sjfsr/stumpjumperfsrcompcarbon

Fsr carbon. Msrp 4100. You are welcome. Of course you can find a more expensive bike.


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## DavyRay (Apr 13, 2012)

> Rupert Murdoch once said, cost is what you pay, value is what you get.


You quoted Rupert Murdoch? Really?


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

jrogs said:


> Specialized Bicycle Components
> 
> Fsr carbon. Msrp 4100. You are welcome. Of course you can find a more expensive bike.


See, this is PRECISELY the problem I have with you. You can't form a basic proper argument. I quoted the op. He stated he had a Stumpjumper Carbon Pro 2009. He is obviously trying to build it to similar spec as the original bike. You tell me I'm wrong in my price quote by showing me a DIFFERENT bike? Really? Did you even read the component spec on the bike you quoted???? We are over here arguing about the cost of an XT/XTR or XO level build and you bring up a SLX and X7 level bike as comparison?????? Give me a ****ing break.


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## mojo28246 (Aug 8, 2007)

DavyRay said:


> You quoted Rupert Murdoch? Really?


Yeap! he did, hey, I said my piece, and fortunately got him to say his, which turns out more entertaining than I was expecting. We can see the pattern here, yet another flip-flop on cranks.

I'd responded but at this point it's just a waste of effort trying to give him free education. We all pay our dues with the learning curve of the sport, it's time he pick up his own slack. It would be fun though, if he stick around and start asking about the BD's suspension design.


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

jrogs said:


> Specialized Bicycle Components
> 
> Fsr carbon. Msrp 4100. You are welcome. Of course you can find a more expensive bike.


Actually, that's not bad for the "base level" CF Stumpjumper, especially if you can factor in any discounts that you're able to pull off....

BTW, I'm not discouraging the OP. I fully support what he's doing since I did the same thing with my bike. 

-S


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

I am wrong by quoting a specialized stumpjumper but you are correct in quoting a bikes direct pos?


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

And you assume he wants to build it the same specs which has been discussed multiple times is not cost effective.

You continue to prove your worth to this forum. Just because you say things does not make them true. 

Many would argue bd full suspension is better than the dw link because I said so.

The argument was about the price of a base stumpjumper. And yes it was discussed you could build an xo bike for about the same price as buying a bd pos. 

You must be right even though you are a self proclaimed noob to mtb and everyone here feels you are wrong. 

You are a toll an arrogant. I am sorry about everyone stealing your lunch money in junior high. 

I was also the only one who sorta saw your point of view with the xo bike. 

I should listen since you are a financial planner, pro golfer, race jeep builder, amazing road cyclist......


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

dude, seriously STFU already, have you even read the friggin thread? you continue to miss the point on everything. I wasn't comparing a bikes direct bike to anything. I was saying that is a source of parts. How hard is it to comprehend this????????

No I don't asssume he wants to build it to the same specs, he was asking and started listing other high end parts he was looking at so multiple people were giving him advice in that vein. 
when someone tells you they have a high end carbon frame, it's pretty good assumption they aren't looking to hang alivio and Suntour on it.

Your right, just because I say things doesn't make them true. When I put the hard evidence out there and explain in detail it does. 

It must suck to give out a piece of information and then have someone lay out hard numbers to refute your claim like I did.


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

Cussing is an excuse for a poor vocabulary. 
You are the one at one point telling him it is better to mess up suntour parts than xtr parts. 
You are the one recommending using a bucket and a brick. 
Now according to you you have been the voice of reason?
You absolutely assumed how he wanted to build it read back to your previous post. You are the one flip flopping.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

jrogs said:


> And you assume he wants to build it the same specs which has been discussed multiple times is not cost effective.
> 
> You continue to prove your worth to this forum. Just because you say things does not make them true.
> 
> ...


Ha ha, his posts were so full of it. Mr concrete example. The kenesis is even worse statement, I'm sure you've figured out the bs already with a simple common sense. I don't want to give anymore free education in the form of continuing post back and forth.

Pm me if you still unclear about bs of bd deal, he still needs to learn.

Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

jrogs said:


> Cussing is an excuse for a poor vocabulary.
> You are the one at one point telling him it is better to mess up suntour parts than xtr parts.
> You are the one recommending using a *bucket and a brick. *
> Now according to you you have been the voice of reason?
> You absolutely assumed how he wanted to build it read back to your previous post. You are the one flip flopping.


Sorry, it was actually njoy. He did take on the issue like it was his statement It makes no sense arguing with him because he spewed bs and called it hard evidence, how are you going to reason with people like that.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

jrogs said:


> Cussing is an excuse for a poor vocabulary.
> You are the one at one point telling him it is better to mess up suntour parts than xtr parts.
> You are the one recommending using a bucket and a brick.
> Now according to you you have been the voice of reason?
> You absolutely assumed how he wanted to build it read back to your previous post. You are the one flip flopping.


so are you saying it's better for a new rider to destroy expensive XTR parts???

I did NOT recommend bucket and a brick.

I did NOT make assumptions about the build, if anything OTHERS told me their assumptions about the build so I took THEIR assumptions and provided examples of how I could do that type of build in a more affordable way since you know that WAS the original point of this thread if you were able to read and comprehend.


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

Mimi. Good point. As evident by last post. I am embarrassed I participated this long.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

mimi1885 said:


> Ha ha, his posts were so full of it. Mr concrete example. The kenesis is even worse statement, I'm sure you've figured out the bs already with a simple common sense. I don't want to give anymore free education in the form of continuing post back and forth.
> 
> Pm me if you still unclear about bs of bd deal, he still needs to learn.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk


see you clearly are a dumbass who can't read. once again attributing things that I didnt say (first it was bucket and brick, now it's Race jeep builder) to me. get your head out of your ass please.

When you say something full of ****, I explain why it's full of **** because this is a "beginners forum" and I'm trying to educate others. you just say "the Kenesis is even worse statement" with no explanation. Considering you cant even spell the name of the company right (it's Kinesis) I'm sure I can trust your knowledge of their business practices.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

jrogs said:


> The argument was about the price of a base stumpjumper. And yes it was discussed you could build an xo bike for about the same price as buying a bd pos.
> 
> ..


LOL no it wasn't . for the 3rd and final time THE FIRST POST of the thread clearly states a Stumpjumper PRO Carbon.

No the comparison was not that you can build an xo bike for the same price as buying a BD bike, it was about if you want to build an XO equip bike instead of walking into a bike shop and paying their inflated prices for everything just to go build it yourself, you could buy the least expensive complete bike that had the desired components. Pretty common strategy for anyone that actually knows something about cycling. Obviously you don't. I've tried to educate you but you have proven yourself to be stupid. I don't mind dealing with the ignorant. Ignorant simply means you don't know something. But when you don't care to learn that simply means you are stupid and I don't deal in stupid. Sorry.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

Mmmmm...that'd be a no. Seriously, is that the best you can do? lol.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

mimi1885 said:


> Mmmmm...that'd be a no. Seriously, is that the best you can do? lol.


not the best I can do is break your hands so you cant type any more erroneous ********. too bad I'll probably never have the opportunity.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

cpfitness said:


> Do you have any idea what the MSRP was on the complete version of the op's frame? It's well over 5k.


Looks like I started the discussion of the MSRP of the bike with this statement.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

MadScientist said:


> I want to build a bike and I have decided on picking up an xl 2009 stumpjumper pro carbon frame....


And it looks like here in post number 1 the op tells us what that frame is


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

jrogs said:


> Oh and the* basic* stumpjumper MSRP is 4g not well over 5g.


and you and your infinite wisdom chimes in with this


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

cpfitness said:


> BikePedia - 2009 specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro Carbon Complete Bicycle
> 
> Bicycle Type	Mountain bike, front & rear suspension
> MSRP (new)	$5,500.00
> ...


And I thought I ended the argument when I made this post, but I guess I had to spell it all out for you again


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

^^^ And you need to go to bed because it is past your bed time! This thread is completely worthless at this point! 

OP---This is a good site with people with great insight to cycling and things associated with it. Please DO NOT be discouraged by this kindergarten argument and its continued momentum. I will say it again, built the bike you want and enjoy the process and the trials that come with it! Enjoy!


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

wow... a lot has happened since i have been gone. everyone should play nice. i took everyones opinion into consideration and scored on a used specialized stumpjumper. It is a 2010 stumpjumper fsr pro carbon frame and rear shock, with all 2008 stumpjumper parts pro carbon parts. The bike is an xl frame and is in great condition... the previous parts i ordered for the bike build were canceled but i got stuck with a couple. building a bike like this would have cost me at least $3000 i think but i bought this one for $2000... tracking number is made and should ship out tomorrow ups ground...  thanks again everyone


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

here are some pics.... :thumbsup:


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

Awesome!! Ride it in good health and give us an update after you've put a few miles on it! Enjoy!


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

what do you guys think?


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

i cant wait to ride this bike....


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## jrogs (Sep 2, 2012)

Looks great man congrats.


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

Lookin good!! Gotta love ebay!

Hope this shuts up the negative Nancys. Now take the bike out and get it dirty!!

-S


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

Well done

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

Hey great looking bike. Be sure to set up the suspension before your first ride, you have plenty of time while waiting for the bike so read up. 
Congrats.


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

The guy is throwing in a set of maxxis 310 tires that look brand new and a bleed kit and an extra magurara front rotor for $80.... im very pleased. Ill be even more happy when the package is accepted at ups and its officially on its way. Im glad I found this deal.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

MadScientist said:


> The guy is throwing in a set of maxxis 310 tires that look brand new and a bleed kit and an extra magurara front rotor for $80.... im very pleased. Ill be even more happy when the package is accepted at ups and its officially on its way. Im glad I found this deal.


Sweet, 310 is pretty awesome on the climb, but kind of useless on the way down. takes lots of pics.

Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk


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## MadScientist (Nov 20, 2012)

I finally have my bike in hand and will be posting a new thread and pictures shortly. Thanks again for the help.


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

MadScientist said:


> I finally have my bike in hand and will be posting a new thread and pictures shortly. Thanks again for the help.


WOOT!! Congrats!

-S


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

bump where the pics at?


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