# Reliable, budget commuter bike



## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

I'm looking for a budget single speed bike that has disc brakes front and back. I would like as little maintenance as possible. I assume I won't significantly benefit from full suspension since I expect to ride it mostly on roads (although those roads may have potholes). The priority is on reliability and low maintenance.

I am about 6 feet tall.

I was looking at the Dawes Bullseye and the Gravity G29.


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## Biggie (Dec 11, 2004)

I would also look at the nearest LBS's close to you. See which ones treat you the best and then make a decision on what brands the store(s) you like sell.

Fit is especially important. My guess is you would be a large with most companies, maybe XL.

Just as a conversation starter, here is my first suggestion:
Quick CX 4 - QUICK CX - FITNESS - FITNESS & URBAN - BIKES - 2015


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

Biggie said:


> I would also look at the nearest LBS's close to you. See which ones treat you the best and then make a decision on what brands the store(s) you like sell.
> 
> Fit is especially important. My guess is you would be a large with most companies, maybe XL.
> 
> ...


It's not a single speed unfortunately.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

What is your budget? You could roll this and swap the tires out to a more commute friendly tire.

Trek Rig (Gary Fisher Collection) - Trek Bicycle Superstore


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

vassock said:


> It's not a single speed unfortunately.


Frankly, you won't find a lot of singlespeeds on the market as new bikes. But you know what? Just about ANYTHING can become a singlespeed.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

I am more inclined to say that you won't find something that is single speed, budget, and has disc brakes. Most road specific bikes are still rim brake, with a few exceptions. Mountain bikes have more of a market for the disc brake. That is why I suggested the Rig that I did.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

There are tons of single speed disc equipped cyclocross bikes out there that have a decent geometry for commuting, and usually the requirements necessary for fenders and racks.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

If you are looking only at flat bar bikes with discs, a past year Kona Unit might be worth a look. For the difference in price, you might find a geared bike like the Quicks or Scott Aspects and convert it to SS. REI also has a 3 speed IGH Novara for $850, if you just don't want deraileurs.

I know nothing about hydraulic disc brakes, but for mechanicals, I have been really happy with my bb7s and find the bb5s a little fiddly. Paying a little more up front might be worth it in saved aggravation and replacement parts (unless you are a bike mechanic and have an extensive parts bin).


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## KentheKona (Jul 6, 2013)

You could get a trek district and have the LBS convert it to single speed. Its in the 600-700 range.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Harold said:


> Just about ANYTHING can become a singlespeed.


Awww, don't go saying that. Trying to ss a modern, geared bike from a major manufacturer needs a tensioner (which defeats the purpose), an eccentric hub, or a weirdo bb conversion. On old bikes it was easy, but nowadays it's much easier to convert ss to geared than the other way round.

And on that subject:



KentheKona said:


> You could get a trek district and have the LBS convert it to single speed. Its in the 600-700 range.


The District used to have sliders, but on the website it looks like all of the new ones are just vertical dropouts?

My only comments on the Dawes Bullseye and the Gravity G29 are:


They're both geared low for the road. If you plan on hitting some trails then you could leave them as-is. But if it's 99% road, then definitely plan to gear up - either a new chainring or even just a 16t rear cog.
I would go for the Dawes, because rigid steel is probably nicer than rigid Al


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

newfangled said:


> Awww, don't go saying that. Trying to ss a modern, geared bike from a major manufacturer needs a tensioner (which defeats the purpose), an eccentric hub, or a weirdo bb conversion. On old bikes it was easy, but nowadays it's much easier to convert ss to geared than the other way round.
> 
> And on that subject:
> 
> ...


I don't think a tensioner is such a bad thing. I definitely don't think it defeats the purpose. Maybe it's not as mechanically clean as a dropout system that allows you to take up chain slack, but it works. And if we're talking about doing it on a budget, isn't a tensioner more budget-friendly? My first SS used a $30 ebay frame. I spent less than $200 on it, and it was even a trailworthy bike.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ it depends what the goal is.

If someone already has a bike, and they want to try ss, then a tensioner is fine. Although it's still not exactly cheap, since it's easy to spend $30~40 for a tensioner, cog and spacers (although yeah, you could just use an old derailleur and cassette)

But if someone is saying that they want a new ss bike, then they're much better off just getting a bike with an ss-able frame. A geared-to-ss conversion should be a last resort.


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## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

I'd take a tensioner over something with sliding dropouts.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

newfangled said:


> ^ it depends what the goal is.
> 
> If someone already has a bike, and they want to try ss, then a tensioner is fine. Although it's still not exactly cheap, since it's easy to spend $30~40 for a tensioner, cog and spacers (although yeah, you could just use an old derailleur and cassette)
> 
> But if someone is saying that they want a new ss bike, then they're much better off just getting a bike with an ss-able frame. A geared-to-ss conversion should be a last resort.


Like I said, I built a singlespeed on a college student budget for about $200. Sold it several years later at a profit, actually. The supply of ss-able frames on the market is fairly limited. Horizontal track ends, IMO, are $hit when you're talking about disc brakes, too, so that eliminates a lot of the "options". I've never used a bike with sliders, or swingers, or any of the newer drops meant to tension chains, so I can't comment on them. But they at least seem like much better choices than track ends with disc brakes.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

Shayne said:


> I'd take a tensioner over something with sliding dropouts.


Sliding dropouts, or trackends like Harold mentioned? Because sliding dropouts work just fine.

If someone wants a ss frame their options are:


sliding dropouts
swinging dropouts
ebb
trackends
old-school horizontal dropouts (which you'd probably never find with discs)

I think that's it?

And of that list, I think most people would take sliders/swingers over any of the others (especially with discs). Personally, I've had all of them except for swingers.


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## heybrady (May 31, 2009)

Find a SSCX bike. For a cheap commuter check bikes direct. Bet they have something sub-500 that would be perfect


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

newfangled said:


> Awww, don't go saying that. Trying to ss a modern, geared bike from a major manufacturer needs a tensioner (which defeats the purpose), an eccentric hub, or a weirdo bb conversion. On old bikes it was easy, but nowadays it's much easier to convert ss to geared than the other way round.
> 
> And on that subject:
> 
> ...


I think I remember reading somewhere, perhaps even on this forum, that the Gravity had slightly better components, but I'm open to suggestions. Perhaps I should visit an LBS before I make the decision.

That said, the bike does not have to be brand new. I don't mind getting a used one.

The Trek bike mentioned above is on the other side of the country from me and is local pick up only.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I didn't realize that the Dawes doesn't actually come with discs, and that you'd have to add them. For that reason alone you'd probably be better with the Gravity. And it looks like the Gravity does have better wheels and headset.

Although as Rustedthrough mentions, if you could find a deal on a yearold Kona Unit it would be a genuinely great bike (but probably 2x the price of the others)


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

OP needs to reply with budget and we can all go from there. A budget to some means under $100, or under $5000 to others.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Some good points made above.

For frame of reference, I paid right around $800 for my new (old stock) 2014 Unit about two months ago. The stock tires were good enough that I could have had the LBS swap them out at purchase for something more roadworthy, or at least a deep discount on some big slicks.

A quick stop in your local bike shops will likely be time well spent, you might even find some great older bikes that have been traded in, or old stock at the distributor.


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

TenSpeed said:


> OP needs to reply with budget and we can all go from there. A budget to some means under $100, or under $5000 to others.


I'm looking for something around $500 or less.


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## fotooutdoors (Jul 8, 2010)

Another LBS option is the Redline Monocog. Last year's model should be $5-600


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## jmctav23 (Oct 16, 2010)

if you know what you're looking for and willing to search and wait, used is the way to go. Got a two year old Kona Unit with a nice aftermarket air fork (not necessary for commute but nice on the trails) for 450. Only thing I've spent money on is tires, a fresh chain, and new chainring/cog so I could play with different gearing. This also depends where you live and how popular biking is there.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

I suggest building your own b/c you wont be happy with what $500 will afford. I built my current pompino, sans disc brakes, for less than that. Great bike.

case in point everything but wheels, brakes and levers for $274...
On-One Pompino V4 Steel Pick 'n' Mix Bundle | Planet X


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Nashbar has a 29er and a 650b both on sale with discs and single speed.


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## Hdpearson13 (Nov 19, 2013)

Raleigh furley under 500 new and a real nice frame. Disk and room for 40mm tires


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Furley is an awesome ride.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

Agreed the Furley. An EBB and 135mm rear spacing really widens the opportunities. Anyone know how much they weigh? edit: around ~25lbs~


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## Hdpearson13 (Nov 19, 2013)

I have my ten speed tripper to 20.8 lbs same bike but with carbon fork, ironcross wheels and shadow 10 zee ten speed setup (it came with nexus three speed which I want to sell or trade that wheel set , the furley is same exact bike with drop bars and single speed so I would guess low 24lbs. I never measures mine before I started switching parts. The frame is cromoly. There was very little rode vibrations when I first got it now there virtually none and is the most comfortable bike I've ever owned but not sure about the ergon seat yet.


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## M-Train (Jan 12, 2008)

Check out All-City Cycles. Mine is geared and has canti-brakes, but they have plenty of options and they are nice looking and nice riding rigs.


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## jmctav23 (Oct 16, 2010)

this is a thing of beauty...wouldn't be surprised if it surpasses your budget though. I'm seriously considering buying it and selling my Unit...

Van Dessel WTF | eBay


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

jmctav23 said:


> this is a thing of beauty...wouldn't be surprised if it surpasses your budget though. I'm seriously considering buying it and selling my Unit...
> 
> Van Dessel WTF | eBay


dude that's just teasing


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## Hdpearson13 (Nov 19, 2013)

That's my frame choice also (just was researching it allitle because I like the style)may be this summer but would like to find one similair in titanium and put dropper seat on ( would help make it my perfect bike with 2.00 tires and sell everything else)I like the lower stand over height. I do a lot of old logging and trail that get allittle rough and with my build 5"9 with 30 inch Inseem,I am still almost sitting on bar riding on some steep downhill single tracks i shouldn't be on but there on the way. The nice thing with the raleigh is the bb height it's clears a lot but I sacrife stand over height and just abit of toe overlap(just barely spds. I do like cross bike because there easy to carry and simple.


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

Rustedthrough said:


> Nashbar has a 29er and a 650b both on sale with discs and single speed.


Nashbar Single-Speed 29er Mountain Bike sells for $375. How does that compare to the Gravity?


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

The Nashbar and Gravity bikes look to have very similar specs, no braze -ons for racks or fenders, same disc brakes etc. Someone else might know geometry.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

jmctav23 said:


> this is a thing of beauty...wouldn't be surprised if it surpasses your budget though. I'm seriously considering buying it and selling my Unit...
> 
> Van Dessel WTF | eBay


I came close to buying one of those but figured that i didnt need to spend the $$$ when my swobo crosby is running fine.


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## bgenesis12 (Jul 11, 2014)

Charge plug performance exclusive 2015
$599


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

Rustedthrough said:


> The Nashbar and Gravity bikes look to have very similar specs, no braze -ons for racks or fenders, same disc brakes etc. Someone else might know geometry.


So it is impossible to install load-bearing equipment on those bikes?


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Not impossible. Several companies make QR mounted racks, and Thule makes a rack which mounts to the seat stays. P- clamp conversions of standard racks might work as well.

My Unit has a steerer tube mounted front fender and a rack mounted rear fender, with the rear rack mounted at the skewer, it all works well- it just takes some fiddling around.


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

Rustedthrough said:


> Not impossible. Several companies make QR mounted racks, and Thule makes a rack which mounts to the seat stays. P- clamp conversions of standard racks might work as well.
> 
> My Unit has a steerer tube mounted front fender and a rack mounted rear fender, with the rear rack mounted at the skewer, it all works well- it just takes some fiddling around.


So if I got the G29 and wanted a cargo rack in the rear, what option is most reliable? I heard the seat post racks tend to twist on the seatpost.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Blackburn makes a solid rack that mounts on the skewers, I would guess that there are several others out there for disc 29ers. The Thule rack is pretty sexy, and pretty pricey, but is the only one I have seen that mounts on the seat stays rather than the QRs or braze- ons.

Newfangled and others have mounted standard rear racks with "P- clamps" on the seat stays. Take a look at another thread here, commuting- best rear rack without braze- ons.


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

Rustedthrough said:


> Blackburn makes a solid rack that mounts on the skewers, I would guess that there are several others out there for disc 29ers. The Thule rack is pretty sexy, and pretty pricey, but is the only one I have seen that mounts on the seat stays rather than the QRs or braze- ons.
> 
> Newfangled and others have mounted standard rear racks with "P- clamps" on the seat stays. Take a look at another thread here, commuting- best rear rack without braze- ons.


Any specific links to compatible items? I don't care how it looks. Just has to be practical. I was considering getting a seatpost rack and gluing it to the seatpost with JB weld to keep it from turning.

What about this item? http://www.amazon.com/Outtag-Retractable-Aluminum-Bicycle-install/dp/B00MR0PIGW


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

vassock said:


> Any specific links to compatible items? I don't care how it looks. Just has to be practical. I was considering getting a seatpost rack and gluing it to the seatpost with JB weld to keep it from turning.


Good Lord, please don't do that. I love JB Weld, but, that is a bad idea.

You could start by looking at this:
Streamliner 29er DLX - Streamliner Racks - Racks - Products - Axiom Performance Gear

and then look at this:
EX-1 DISC RACK - Rear Racks - Racks

and this:
Thule Pack ?n Pedal Tour Rack - Thule

There are several good options out there, epoxying a seat post rack should be a last resort.


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

Rustedthrough said:


> Good Lord, please don't do that. I love JB Weld, but, that is a bad idea.
> 
> You could start by looking at this:
> Streamliner 29er DLX - Streamliner Racks - Racks - Products - Axiom Performance Gear
> ...


Those seem complicated to mount. Any instructional videos for those particular product types?

The epoxy would just be at the rack mounting point just to keep it from turning on the smooth seat post pole. I also read about people putting a piece of hard rubber at the mounting point and overtightening the bolts of the rack on the post to keep it from turning and avoiding damage to the seatpost.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Mounting each of these is indeed slightly more complex than brushing your teeth.

A strip of old inner tube or other rubber bushing might do well to keep a seat post rack tight and straight, if you keep the loads light enough.


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

Okay, I'm convinced.

Amazon.com : Axiom DLX Streamliner Disc Cycle Rack, Black : Bike Racks : Sports & Outdoors : $37.05

Bike choices:

Redline Monocog 29er Mountain Bike 17 in Single Speed with Upgraded Disc Brakes | eBay - $420.00 (used)

vs

Brand new G29: $349.95

I think the G29 makes more sense for the money. Is the monocog really so much more reliable and long-lasting to make the price difference worth it?

I'll also be getting 2 small flashlights with rechargeable batteries to use so I can ride at night. Cheapest way seems to be with a magnetic mounting system and a waterproof flashlight. Is there a better solution?


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

vassock said:


> Okay, I'm convinced.
> 
> Amazon.com : Axiom DLX Streamliner Disc Cycle Rack, Black : Bike Racks : Sports & Outdoors : $37.05
> 
> ...


Can anyone confirm/deny compatibility of the bike rack Axiom DLX and Gravity G29 bike?


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Nope... But I don't see why it wouldn't work.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

^ I've got the 29er streamliner on my 29er, and I think that's a better bet. Not sure why amazon doesn't have it (almost nobody online seems to), but I got an lbs to order it in without any issue.

The dlx is an inch shorter than the 29er version, and even with the 29er version the clearances aren't huge:


__
https://flic.kr/p/16423434405


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

newfangled said:


> ^ I've got the 29er streamliner on my 29er, and I think that's a better bet. Not sure why amazon doesn't have it (almost nobody online seems to), but I got an lbs to order it in without any issue.
> 
> The dlx is an inch shorter than the 29er version, and even with the 29er version the clearances aren't huge:
> 
> ...


LBS doesn't have the 29er version available (in stock or otherwise). Are you sure the G29 doesn't have the mounting points on the rear part of the frame? I see there are little metal bolts there on the image. Could you check again?

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/images/g29_black_2100.jpg


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

Okay, I did the measurements. 6'0 tall and about a 32" inseam. For MTB it looks like

5'11" - 6'2" 31" - 33" 19 to 21 inches, so I will get the 21 inch Gravity G29.

What color is best? Orange, white or black?

Also, I assume the bike for $350 from bikes direct is the whole bike with wheels, forks, discs and chain, correct?


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Yes. I'd go for orange simply for visibility.


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> Yes. I'd go for orange simply for visibility.


That's what I was thinking.

What about riding at night?

Amazon.com : Abco Tech LED Bike Light - Exquisite Design - Headlight and Tail Light Set - Multipurpose High Intensity Triple Mode Front and Tail Waterproof Bike Light - Adjustable Focus Zoom Light - No Tools Needed - Quick Release Mount - Great for S

Is that a good choice? Looks like it has front and rear lights.

My state requires a white light in front and a red light in rear visible 500+ feet away.

Also I need a bell that is audible 100+ feet away. Any suggestions?

http://www.amazon.com/CARCHET®-Bicycle-Retro-Metal-Rubber/dp/B00AQAR426


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

Any bell will work. As for lights, I suggest visiting your lbs. You're able to get your hands on things and see what's up. I've found that for cheap Chinese lights from Amazon.com, you get what you pay for.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

For riding at night you might start by looking at something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-360-Hot...=UTF8&qid=1425241143&sr=8-4&keywords=cygolite
Several manufacturers sell similar starter kits for similar prices. If you buy it from the LBS you may get more help in the warranty department if you need it.


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

That seems a bit too expensive.


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

I think this might be a good choice:

Amazon.com : Powerful, Durable 250-Lumen Combination LED Bike Headlight-Tail Light Provides Brilliant, Long-lasting Illumination For Maximum Security And Safety. Built For The Serious Bike Rider : Sports & Outdoors

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-4MCCA4BA-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSMJK


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C2...&dpID=51ukhwsQqRL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

I had one of these for a while. Good output and price conscious. The warranty means nothing, however. Just keep that in mind, but if you're looking for a good start to help you understand what you want, what you need, and what direction you need to go, this is it.


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

Texan-n-Fla said:


> SecurityIng Waterproof 2800 Lumens XM-L U2 LED Bicycle Light 4 Modes Super Bright Lighting Lamp Bike Lamp Headlight with 8.4V Rechargeable Battery Pack and Charger for Camping, Cycling, Hiking, Riding - Black:Amazon:Sports & Outdoors
> 
> I had one of these for a while. Good output and price conscious. The warranty means nothing, however. Just keep that in mind, but if you're looking for a good start to help you understand what you want, what you need, and what direction you need to go, this is it.


Does it come with a red tail light?
Amazon.com : MetroFlash Nocturna USB Rechargeable Taillight with USB Cable : Bike Headlight Taillight Combinations : Sports & Outdoors


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

Do you just need to be seen, or do you need the light to see the road?


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

Rustedthrough said:


> Do you just need to be seen, or do you need the light to see the road?


It would help if the headlight helped me see potholes, yes.


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## Texan-n-Fla (Sep 22, 2013)

No, you would have to buy a taillight. But honestly, you're kinda putting a price on your life.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

I run two sets of these, plus a bright usb chargeable set (or two of them) like the ones I mentioned above.

http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-B...1425256483&sr=8-3&keywords=planet+bike+blinky

Combined with a headlight, these would meet the legal requirements and give you some idea of what you need for night riding. Lights, like brakes, are not good place to skimp.


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## vassock (Jun 29, 2009)

Rustedthrough said:


> I run two sets of these, plus a bright usb chargeable set (or two of them) like the ones I mentioned above.
> 
> Amazon.com : Planet Bike Blinky Safety 1-Led Bicycle Light Set : Bike Headlight Taillight Combinations : Sports & Outdoors
> 
> Combined with a headlight, these would meet the legal requirements and give you some idea of what you need for night riding. Lights, like brakes, are not good place to skimp.


What's the point of putting an extra bulb in the front if there is already a headlight there? The headlight will be stronger than this, let people see you, and let you see the road. Not a bad idea for the rear, but in the front it would be redundant.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

The point is having lights where they will be seen. I have the white blinkies mounted on my fork and my headlight mounted on the handlebar. The red blinkies are on my rack, while the brighter "breathing" taillights are on my seatpost.

As much as Cygolite and Light and Motion have made their headlights visible from the side, my arms and mitts limit that function. The cheap lights mounted on the fork never get hidden and give me some level of visibility from the side.

Redundancy is our friend.


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## Rustedthrough (Aug 19, 2014)

BrianMC has posted a number of videos to this forum which show the relative advantage of lights in different locations and of varying brightness.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

Rustedthrough said:


> For riding at night you might start by looking at something like this:
> Amazon.com : Cygolite Metro 360/Hotshot 2W Combo Light Set : Bike Headlight Taillight Combinations : Sports & Outdoors
> Several manufacturers sell similar starter kits for similar prices. If you buy it from the LBS you may get more help in the warranty department if you need it.


Both of those lights are really good. My buddy runs that combo and it is well worth the money. I have a Cygolite Dash 320 that I have been using up front and I am extremely happy with it. As said before, you are putting a price on your life.


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## formula4speed (Mar 25, 2013)

The Dash 320 and HotShot Micro combo is a bit cheaper at $70 Amazon.com : Cygolite Dash 320/Hotshot Micro USB Light Combo : Sports & Outdoors

Would be hard to get something cheaper while still being bright enough to see and be reliable.


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## TenSpeed (Feb 14, 2012)

^ this is the combo that I run, and I really like it. Both lights have great battery life so far. I like the visibility of the tail, and the headlight, to be seen, and to see. 320 lumens is just enough for a dark MUP in the middle of the night.


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