# Question about bending and heat treating 7005 aluminum stays/dropouts



## 4Rings6Stars (Oct 1, 2010)

I have a cyclocross frame that was rescued from the trash. It is essentially brand new and the only issue is that somehow the rear stays and/or dropouts have been bent so that the rear spacing is now only about 80mm. I would like to get it back wide enough to accept a 130mm wheel.

There are now sharp bends or creases. To me, it looks as if most of the bending is in the dropouts themselves. I have attached a few pics to help show the specific issue I'm dealing with.

Any suggestions for safely spreading the frame? I've heard a lot about aluminum being brittle when bent and been warned that I should not try this, but I got the frame for free and would like to try it. I'm not opposed to wrecking paint or using heat if I need to.

I have posted a thread about it on bikeforums.net as well, but my googling has shown me that this might be a better resource for this particular problem as some builders might have experience with 7005 alloy and heat treating, annealing...etc.


















Last photo shows me spreading the frame to 130 which it did with relative ease, but it sprung right back to about 80 when I took the axle out.


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## j-ro (Feb 21, 2009)

Looks like the non drive side is bent more than the drive side, they will have to be spread indepedantly of each other. If indeed there are creases then it is junk, post a closeup of what you consider a crease. Don't use heat. Short of taking it to someone with an alignment table you will have to fasion a tool to check symetry between the two dropouts, run a straight edge touching the head tube and the seattube into the rear triangle and measure to the dropout, switch to the other side and measure it, when they match and your spacing is correct you will have fixed most of your problem. 
I've straightened one that was much worse than that. You are going to have to reef on it, don't be scared, its not made out of glass.


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## 4Rings6Stars (Oct 1, 2010)

Thanks for the response.

Currently, I'm at college and have no tools but will be bringing the frame to my parents' house to work on. So my apologies for the crude straight edge (cutting board) but I wanted to show that I think a lot of the bend is in the dropouts themselves. I will do some proper measurements later, but hopefully this will help a little to show where the bend(s) are.

There are no creases, cracks or visible imperfections.

Do you think this (Sheldon Brown's 2x4 method) is the best way for me to try this?


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## bobbotron (Nov 28, 2007)

I think she's toast. I wouldn't feel comfortable trying to revive that frame.


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## j-ro (Feb 21, 2009)

copy and paste from the end of sheldons article; 
"This job is one that isn't for everybody, but it's not rocket science either. Many shops are reluctant to undertake this sort of operation, either because of fear of liability or because they want to sell you new bike. Although it seems fairly alarming to deliberately bend your frame, it is really not that cataclismic an operation."
I say go for it, if there is no creases and no cracked paint then start tugging away. if the paint is cracked you need to remove it to investigate, You would be surprised how thick those tubes are, they will straighten easier than steel tubes.
That article does a good job of explaining the process.


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## smdubovsky (Apr 27, 2007)

Looks like they're at about the right angle when you space them to 135mm? Just clamp a wheel in it and ride... (just keep an eye on it)


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## 4Rings6Stars (Oct 1, 2010)

Okay guys.

I tried to squeeze a wheel in there and I couldn't get it to go. Too far to spread and the wheel was getting in the way of my vice so I tried to spread the frame with Sheldon's 2x4 method...fail. Seat stay cracked right below the brake bridge (do I still call it a brake bridge if it isn't drilled for a brake?).

Just for grins I tried the other side. This time very gradually applying pressure and SNAP. Same thing. I tweaked it a little and I now have it spread to exactly 130mm, and a wheel sits in it perfectly straight. Shame it's got two broken stays 

My dad's friend works in a full fab/machine shop and there are a few competent welders that I have had fix a few things for me before (wrought iron and steel though, no aluminum). I doubt they have a TIG welder, can it be done with MIG or torch or whatever else these guys might have? I will have my dad ask them Monday but thought I would talk to frame builders first for advice....

Sigh.


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## Cracked Headtube (Apr 16, 2006)

That frame is toast. I could think of a _clever _way to mend it, but after all is said and done, you'd be better off just buying a secure frame. Consider it a free lesson in frame alignment, and return it to where to found it. a dumpster. don't make a bong out of it.


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## 4Rings6Stars (Oct 1, 2010)

Cracked Headtube said:


> That frame is toast. I could think of a _clever _way to mend it, but after all is said and done, you'd be better off just buying a secure frame. Consider it a free lesson in frame alignment, and return it to where to found it. a dumpster. don't make a bong out of it.


Haha maybe in my high school days :madmax:

I already ordered a replacement frame, a Nashbar X Cyclocross. Crazy cheap (under $100 shipped with the sale they have going on). It will be a training/city bike and while the Felt frame would have been nice, I'm sure this Nashbar one will suffice.

I would really love a steel cross frame, but I haven't been able to find a decent frame in my price range. Boston used market is pretty inflated too so craigslist is a crapshoot.

If anybody thinks there is a chance that this could be welded and ridden I'm all ears. 
Thanks guys.


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## Andy FitzGibbon (Jul 7, 2007)

I'm guessing Sheldon's article was mostly aimed at steel frames, which in my experience can be cold-set more effectively than aluminum. 
Since the bend was apparently mostly at the dropouts, it probably would have been better to figure out a way to securely clamp the seat and chain stays, and use something (a Crescent wrench or monkey wrench, maybe) to bend the dropouts themselves. Using Sheldon's 2x4 method put all of the force on the brake bridge weld. That may have broken the dropouts, though, so don't feel bad for trying the way you did.
I guess it could be fixed, but I don't think it's really worth it. To do it correctly, it would have to be re-heat treated, which would also mean repainting. You would end up with a fair amount of money in a "free" repaired frame.

Andy


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## j-ro (Feb 21, 2009)

4Rings6Stars said:


> Haha maybe in my high school days :madmax:
> 
> I already ordered a replacement frame, a Nashbar X Cyclocross. Crazy cheap (under $100 shipped with the sale they have going on). It will be a training/city bike and while the Felt frame would have been nice, I'm sure this Nashbar one will suffice.
> 
> ...


Now shes a goner bub, good on you for trying anyway, just cut it up the rest of the way before someone is tempted to salvage it.


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