# Refurbishing of a trek singletrack 930 shx



## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

*edit*
This thread started with me wanting to identify the year of my Trek 930 and has transformed more into a build-type thread. Hopefully this thread helps someone out!

Well, I've been searching and searching all over the net for answers but can't find anything solid. I've been trying to figure out what year my 930 is.

It's maroon-ish.
STX brakes/shifters-7spd
STX crank
Shimano acera r/d
STX f/d
STX hubs
Single track comp wheels
Rockshox quadra 10

I'm just trying to figure out so I can get replacement parts for it. The other day my cassette stopped spinning freely. It still moves, but requires some force. I'm trying to figure out what wheels I can buy for it, so I need dimensions and what not.
I know most wheels are probably going to cost more than the bike itself (got it for $75 off craigslist) but I don't mind. This bike made me fall in love with the sport and I plan on maintaining it forever. I'm planning to buy a nice bike come winter.

A pic for reference. I can get more in the morning if requested.


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

Can't help you on the year of the bike but it sounds to me like all you need is to service your freehub.

Save your self the coin and Google it.....


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## longfinkillie (Jan 28, 2011)

Post a pic of the rear wheel. Assuming it's completely stock you're probably running 7 speed hyperglide, but you can never be sure till we see it.


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## jettore (Apr 12, 2011)

Have you checked here? Trigger shifters for 94, then changed to grip. Compare your parts with each year and you should narrow it down.
BikePedia - 1994 Trek 930 Complete Bicycle

You shouldn't need new wheel either to fix the problem.


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## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

Here's a pic. It spins fine, until it gets to a certain spot. then It requires quite a bit of force to keep it moving. I'm gonna go buy the special tool at my lbs and freshen it up. Idk if it matters, but the axle spins just fine.


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## Spec7 (May 3, 2000)

Should be a 1994 model 930SHX based on the Quadra 10 fork and STX shifters. I had a 1995 model which is the year they switched to the Quadra 5 and SRAM SRT400 shifters along with an STX-RC drive train and Shimano Parallax hubs.

You may just need to clean the rear hub and repack w/ grease to get it running smooth again.


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## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

Sweet thanks! I JUST saw that on bikepedia. I didn't even think it would be an shx, so I didn't bother looking.Mine also has parallax hubs.


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## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

So I guess I'll just turn this into a build thread. If I get new shifters+ derailleur+cassette, I can increase the amount of gears I have, right? It seems 7spd stuff is a little hard to find, as far as derailleurs go. My current Acera r/d has some wobble near the main bolt and has been giving me shifting issues lately.

For now, my plans are as follows;
Rockshox dart 3 or better(i'm a big guy so I need a good shock)
this or better r/d
undecided on rims/hubs


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## Spec7 (May 3, 2000)

CrzyTuning said:


> So I guess I'll just turn this into a build thread. If I get new shifters+ derailleur+cassette, I can increase the amount of gears
> 
> For now, my plans are as follows;
> Rockshox dart 3 or better(i'm a big guy so I need a good shock)
> ...


Yep, you certainly can increase the number of gear ratios and newer components should make it a more reliable ride at the same time. That LX derailleur should more than suffice for clean shifting.


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## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

Hmm, found a used tora on pinkbike for cheap. Would I need to make any other changes if I wanted to use that shock?


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## Spec7 (May 3, 2000)

It'll throw the ride geometry off, but first check your current fork's steer tube size to make sure it's not a 1" diameter tube. Hopefully its a 1-1/8th" diameter tube, but it would suck to get the tora fork & find out that the frame has a 1" steer tube requirement. That era of bike is from the time when manufacturers were migrating from 1" threaded steer tubes to 1-1/8th threadless steer tubes so there was a mixed bag of sizes on the market at the time.


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## jettore (Apr 12, 2011)

I would not spend a ton of money on the bike. It's a nice bike and I would just ride it like it is and just replace what is needed if it doesn't work. 

Depending on your current setup, changing the fork may require a new headset and stem. Probably a brake change also for the front. Alsot get an 80mm travel fork also at the most.

What wrong with the current set of wheels? I definitely would not spend any money for new ones.

Post some more pics. Especially of the front stem area.


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## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

I want new wheels because the rim surfaces are extremely rough/dirty and feel like it is hindering brake performance. I'm also wanting to convert to v brakes. 
I'll go take some pics of the headset area.


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## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

Good news, the steerer tube is 1-1/8th! It's a día comp headset.


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## jettore (Apr 12, 2011)

CrzyTuning said:


> Good news, the steerer tube is 1-1/8th! It's a día comp headset.


The bad news is it's threaded. So if you decide to replace the fork you will also need a threadless headset and new stem.


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## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

How is it threaded? There's no locknuts. The stem holds it in place.


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## jettore (Apr 12, 2011)

Hmm, maybe it's not threaded then. Looks like the stem extends down in to the head tube from the pic. You should be good then.


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## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

Quick question, what is it that determines what derailliers can/can't be used on a 7spd system? The reason I ask is because a friend has a shimano deore xt r/d that he can sell super cheap to me.


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## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

7, 8 and 9 can all be run with the same RD. Swap away.

Now, I want more pics of that dog, serious tongue hangage on that fella!


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## doc Zox (Sep 16, 2010)

spin the freewheel whilst dowsing it with wd40

then blow it out with air and anoint it with 42 drops of triflow


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## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

I'm assuming this isn't good news.
Broken Mtn bike hub - YouTube

Could I replace just that part?

*edit*
I found this NOS Shimano Parallax Freehub...32 Hole w/135 mm Spacing | eBay
The only issue I see is that my hub says FH-MC30 on it, instead of FH-MC12 like in the listing. The FH-MC30 is a part number for a cone.


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## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

Some more on the 2 part numbers

https://bernd.sluka.de/Fahrrad/Shimano/TM/FH-MC30-CH7_1994.gif
https://bernd.sluka.de/Fahrrad/Shimano/TM/FH-MC12-7QR_1996.gif

They list the hub body as different part numbers, but by only 1 letter. 3AC 9806 vs 3AP 9806.

BUT, then this site says they have the same hub part#.(2nd page on the right)
https://www.shimano.com/publish/con...dFile.html/06) Freehub Interchangeability.pdf

Anyone have any insight?


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## Spec7 (May 3, 2000)

I'm not sure that I would spend the time rebuilding or replacing that hub. For the amount of work and $ required to replace the rear hub, you might be able to buy a new lighter, stronger wheel set instead. You wont have to worry about the current rim walls and you'll likely have a better braking surface which would also require new brake pads. Since you wish to switch to v-brakes you'll be replacing the current brake pads anyway.

I had good luck with a set of Mavic Crossride's on my old hardtail back in 98 through 2003 and they made a world of difference in that bike. You might be able to find an old gently used pair of those for cheap.


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## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

Well I already have it apart and it was quite easy to disassemble. The entire hub up above is much cheaper than any wheelset worth buying. Unless you can find me a nice set for under $50, replacing three hub is easier and cheaper.

Thanks much for the input guys. Really appreciate it.


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## StanleyButterfly (Nov 4, 2009)

Maybe just get a nicer bike or something with better quality parts. Just a thought. Cheers.


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## Spec7 (May 3, 2000)

CrzyTuning said:


> Well I already have it apart and it was quite easy to disassemble. The entire hub up above is much cheaper than any wheelset worth buying. Unless you can find me a nice set for under $50, replacing three hub is easier and cheaper.
> 
> Thanks much for the input guys. Really appreciate it.


Unless you know how to and have the tools to re-lace a wheel, you'll have to pay a shop to re-lace the replacement hub into your current rim and spokes. It's harder to do than it seems like it should be and after 26 years of riding/wrenching bikes its still one of those tasks that I cannot do well. Most shops I know of charge $50-$75 per wheel to re-lace. That's why I said what I did earlier.

In your situation, I'd run the wheel down to the local shop and ask them to check on replacing just the free hub body. That may be the cheapest in the end. I'm not well versed on the Shimano hub parts simply because I've concentrated on King's, Hope's, and similar hubs for the last 15 years, but your local shop should be able to tell you if they can repair the hub body you have or if the entire hub needs to be replaced due to lack of parts.


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## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

StanleyButterfly said:


> Maybe just get a nicer bike or something with better quality parts. Just a thought. Cheers.


Whats the fun in that?! I'm a grease monkey at heart and it's also my other hobby. I can't not upgrade/restore something I have.

Great idea Spec7. I'll start by calling all the lbs around and seeing if they have anything to help me with. Thanks.


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## doc Zox (Sep 16, 2010)

i have broken freehub internal prawl slots myself, but in many cases there is just gunked up grease or silt in the mechanism that causes the sticktion.


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## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

A pic for MendonCycleSmith!


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## CrzyTuning (Mar 31, 2012)

For anyone wondering or in a situation similar to mine, I fixed the bike. The replacement hub worked.

Going to buy a new cassette, chain and probably derraileur from nashbar next week. I slept on my friends offer and he sold it to someone else.


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## SkyDogTim (Jul 19, 2012)

Quality 7 Speed shifters are hard to find. Shimano's are at their lowest level, although it appears as through you can use 8 Speed shifters as the spacing is the same per shift. In the end, I decided to switch over to SRAM and went with X.3 shifters and an X.4 rear de-railer. Not high end by any stretch, but the quality appears better than what was available in Shimano, I am going through an overhaul, myself, restoring my one an only Mountain bike I bought back in 1992 and I am looking forward to the process.


Keep up the good work on the re-build, looking forward to the "after" pics.

Enjoy


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## doc Zox (Sep 16, 2010)

tell me about it, My daughter has a tourney shifted 29er.

It was missing front derailleur shifts, so we were adjusting the tension.

She took it out for a spin and the lever stopped ratcheting

I opened it up and one of the white plastic prawls was split in half.

I had to order a new set of integrated brake & shifters for her, cause you are not going to find the 15 cent part and 30 bucks from amazon was a sure fix.


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## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

SkyDogTim said:


> although it appears as through you can use 8 Speed shifters as the spacing is the same per shift.


That's not true. They are close, but not the same and you will have a hard time getting it to shift correctly.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

trailville said:


> That's not true. They are close, but not the same and you will have a hard time getting it to shift correctly.


5mm spacing on the 7 sp and 4.8mm on the 8 sp. You're right, it doesn't sound like much in theory but theory isn't practice.


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## SkyDogTim (Jul 19, 2012)

I did not like the concept either, but it was pointed out to me in another thread and I read about it on Sheldon Brown's page:

6-speed, 7-speed, 8-speed, 9-speed, 10-speed, 11-speed?

Too risky for me so I went with the SRAM gear for now. Upgrading the shifters will be relatively cheap if I ever decide to increase the number of gears as long as I can still find the parts...


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## doc Zox (Sep 16, 2010)

anyone else remember the shimano cog board where you could build your own cassette?


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