# Race Face Narrow/Wide Chainring Review



## TruTone (Jun 30, 2011)

Here's a non-sponsored video I made outlining my experience with a Race Face Narrow - Wide Chainring... Hope you guys enjoy.






Appears to be a pocket-friendly XX1 style chainring. Let me know if you have any questions! :thumbsup:


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## dietz31684 (Mar 30, 2010)

Nice review man! Looks like a good product, always nice to have more options.


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## jstrat73 (Oct 24, 2005)

Thanks for posting! My Race Face Narrow/Wide 30t ring arrived today. I'm planning to try it out on my existing 1x9 drivetrain. I'm running a long cage SLX derailleur now. I'd like to run a shorter rear derailleur, but not sure if I can run a short cage with my 12-36 cassette. Great video!


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## TruTone (Jun 30, 2011)

jstrat73 said:


> Not sure if I can run a short cage with my 12-36 cassette.


You most certainly can... If you go 10 speed. Max cog on a short cage road (which would still be 9 speed capable) is a 32t, although with a an RD-5701 (not 5700, the old version) you miiiight be able to go up to a 34T if your derailleur hanger is adequately long.

If you DO go 10 speed, the Short cage Shimano Zee Freeride Version is what you're looking for. Cage length does not determine maximum cog (any Shimano 10sp Dyna-Sys rear derailleur will take a 36T maximum cog), but it does determine maximum chain takeup. Short cages are the optimal setup for any single ring setup.

Single Chainring - Short Cage.
Double Chainring - Medium Cage. (short cage can sometimes be used on narrow range double setups if you don't cross chain)
Triple Chainring - Long Cage. Medium cage for the daring and disciplined (those who don't cross chain)

These aren't hard and fast rules as you can see... The modern rear derailleur will work admirably with an astonishingly wide range of chain tension/lengths.


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## jstrat73 (Oct 24, 2005)

Thanks for the info TruTone!


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

The noise appears to be a characteristic of these rings. Both my 30T 1x10 and 32T single speed do it. It is that same "dry chain" sound that you described. I had my first real test of my 30T 1x10 set-up today and it passed with flying colors! I'm running a standard X9 mid-cage derailleur. Very rocky, rooty trails with lots of ledges. No drops. No issues. I'll deal with the noise. I'm sure I'll get used to it.


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## dirty_vegas (May 31, 2013)

My 32 tooth been in the mail for a couple days. I'm crossing my fingers as I'm going from a triple crank down to one with an xt shadow 10 speed without clutch in rear.


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## Ranger Pride (Jan 21, 2005)

I just went 1x10 from 2x10 last night with the 36 tooth version. I have a Shimano crank and the install could not have been any easier. I already had the Xt shadow + clutch derailleur so it should be a great setup. I just had some surgery a week ago and have to wait one more week before I can ride but every report on this chainring has been positive and I anticipate the same. The cross chaining in the 36x36 is a little concerning when you look at it but we will see how it holds up.


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## HomegrownMN (Nov 29, 2004)

I've got ~100 miles on my 30T with a mid cage X9 (non clutch) 11-34 cassette. On a hardtail.

Not a single drop, not a single problem! :thumbup:


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

Do you guys notice the slight "dry chain" noise as well?


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## HomegrownMN (Nov 29, 2004)

dvn said:


> Do you guys notice the slight "dry chain" noise as well?


Not here. Plus the sound of gravel under my tire masks any 'friction' noise while riding


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## shagster (Oct 30, 2012)

dvn said:


> Do you guys notice the slight "dry chain" noise as well?


It went away pretty quickly. I would guess after a 100 miles. I now have 500+ miles on mine with 3 dropped chains. All of them seem to have dropped during times I was not pedaling and hit a sharp bump. I believe that had I been pedaling and the tension been there, I wouldn't have dropped the chain ever. I run an XTR shadow RD, no guide or tensioner, 38T.


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## Ranger Pride (Jan 21, 2005)

shagster said:


> It went away pretty quickly. I would guess after a 100 miles. I now have 500+ miles on mine with 3 dropped chains. All of them seem to have dropped during times I was not pedaling and hit a sharp bump. I believe that had I been pedaling and the tension been there, I wouldn't have dropped the chain ever. I run an XTR shadow RD, no guide or tensioner, 38T.


It dies not sound like you have the clutch derailleur.. I think this is the key to making the 1x10 without the chain guide dependable way to go.


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## shagster (Oct 30, 2012)

Ranger Pride said:


> It dies not sound like you have the clutch derailleur.. I think this is the key to making the 1x10 without the chain guide dependable way to go.


I do and it works fine. It isn't a bullet proof solution to dropping chains though, albeit plenty close to perfect for me. I have complete confidence in the ring.


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## dirty_vegas (May 31, 2013)

shagster said:


> I do and it works fine. It isn't a bullet proof solution to dropping chains though, albeit plenty close to perfect for me. I have complete confidence in the ring.


Well that's good to hear since I'll have same setup. Not looking for 100% but 99% sounds good to me.


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## Ranger Pride (Jan 21, 2005)

dirty_vegas said:


> Well that's good to hear since I'll have same setup. Not looking for 100% but 99% sounds good to me.


That's what I am hoping for as well. I can finally ride again starting this Thursday and am looking forward to testing out the new setup.


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## Tarekith (Mar 9, 2005)

dvn said:


> The noise appears to be a characteristic of these rings. Both my 30T 1x10 and 32T single speed do it. It is that same "dry chain" sound that you described. I had my first real test of my 30T 1x10 set-up today and it passed with flying colors! I'm running a standard X9 mid-cage derailleur. Very rocky, rooty trails with lots of ledges. No drops. No issues. I'll deal with the noise. I'm sure I'll get used to it.


What type of chain is that?


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

Tarekith said:


> What type of chain is that?


It's a KMC X10SL on my 1x10 and a KMC Z610HX on the SS. Like Shagster mentioned, I think there may just be a break in period for the sprockets. The one on my SS was noticeably quieter on the second ride.


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## dirty_vegas (May 31, 2013)

Got my 32t setup done just now. Re-lubed re-tourqued. Passed the curb and bunny hop tests.

Didn't remove any links from the chain yet and I still have to get spacers or shorter bolts in order put the crank behind the crank holes where the old 32T was in my triple crank setup. (I have it in front where the 42t was before.)

Here it is setup with my city rims, tires,seat post, and gel seat.


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

dirty_vegas said:


> Got my 32t setup done just now. Re-lubed re-tourqued. Passed the curb and bunny hop tests.
> 
> Didn't remove any links from the chain yet and I still have to get spacers or shorter bolts in order put the crank behind the crank holes where the old 32T was in my triple crank setup. (I have it in front where the 42t was before.)
> 
> ...


You just need the available spacers. It's a cleaner look too. I got mine on eBay.


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## dirty_vegas (May 31, 2013)

dvn said:


> You just need the available spacers. It's a cleaner look too. I got mine on eBay.


Thanks I'll look for a set of these.

-Dirty


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## boo radley (Jun 26, 2013)

I'm interested in using something like this for a 1x10 solution (don't know why I want to break my almost-new bike, but I do <grin>). It looks like I'll need this RaceFace N/W 32t chain ring and possibly some spacers.

But what about the rear derailleur? I currently have a Shimano Deore XT derailleur and 11x36 cassette with my 3x10 setup.I assume the cassette can stay, but the derailleur? Some of the threads suggest I need a clutch-style, or(?) a short-cage style like the Zee? Are these necessary? If I do this, can I reuse my existing shifter and cable?

Hope these aren't ignorant questions -- trying to piece together a shopping list.


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## 8iking VIIking (Dec 20, 2012)

boo radley said:


> I'm interested in using something like this for a 1x10 solution (don't know why I want to break my almost-new bike, but I do <grin>). It looks like I'll need this RaceFace N/W 32t chain ring and possibly some spacers.
> 
> But what about the rear derailleur? I currently have a Shimano Deore XT derailleur and 11x36 cassette with my 3x10 setup.I assume the cassette can stay, but the derailleur? Some of the threads suggest I need a clutch-style, or(?) a short-cage style like the Zee? Are these necessary? If I do this, can I reuse my existing shifter and cable?
> 
> Hope these aren't ignorant questions -- trying to piece together a shopping list.


A clutch rear derailleur might be necessary, it might not. Ive had no dropped chains with my non clutch X7, and I have also heard of many others doing just fine with non clutch rd's.

And if you do opt for a new rd, yes your existing cable and shifter will work.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## hani1 (Sep 12, 2008)

I had my first ride on my 32t set up with a x9 10spd non-cluth derailleur on my steel hardtail (Cotic BFe). I am amazed at how well this setup works. I was riding with a buddy who was on a nomad running 2x9 and over the same terrain and pretty much at the same speed he had two drops and I had zero. 

I was convinced I would need to get a type2 derailleur now I am not so sure. I will probably grab another 32 depending on how fast these will wear out.


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## quote (Aug 11, 2012)

I've had mine for a couple weeks now on a XT crank with a FH Zee Rear-d. Works fine, no dropped chains yet. I do have a weird clicking noise when it's in the last 2-3 easiest gears that never noticed before. I only hear it when it's on the repair stand though so I think it's okay.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Does anyone know of a clutch deraileur that works on 9 speed and 10speed, and is mid to short cage?

I just ordered a 30t, but I am running 9spd, and I really don't want to swap my entire drivetrain.


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## Tarekith (Mar 9, 2005)

You might not even need one. A lot of people seem to be running the narrow wide with a normal RD with no issues.


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## someoldfart (Mar 14, 2013)

dvn said:


> Do you guys notice the slight "dry chain" noise as well?


I did initially but the noise seemed go away after a few hours of riding. I'm on the 30 tooth and XX1 chain, cassette and derailleur. The XX1 pulley wheels were also noisy at first.


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

unrooted said:


> Does anyone know of a clutch deraileur that works on 9 speed and 10speed, and is mid to short cage?
> 
> I just ordered a 30t, but I am running 9spd, and I really don't want to swap my entire drivetrain.


I would give it a try. I am running one with a Type 2 X9 and one with a standard X9. No issues so far on either. To be honest, I'm not sure the Type 2's are any better than the standard ones. I still get quite a bit of chain slap with the Type 2. The lock-out button is a nice feature though.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Are you guys making your chain as short as possible?

I currently have a 9 speed XTR long cage, making the jump from 3 down to 1. Hopefully my knees can hang. It will be soooo nice to remove some clutter from my bike since I have full length cables and a dropper post. If I can afford it my next bike will certainly have internal routing. I can't imagine what will happen if my bike were to get tossed into the bushes, cables everywhere!!!


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## 8iking VIIking (Dec 20, 2012)

I went from 24/38 up front to 30 with the same chain length, no problems so far with non clutch rd. I have a medium cage though, which helps a little

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Dropped 400 grams, didn't realize I had a steel middle & small ring! Only ridden around the block, but no issues!


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## Tarekith (Mar 9, 2005)

I ended up making my chain shorter than it was at 24/36 originally, but not by much. When looking into my Type 2 RD, I read a lot of comments about people having clunking noises to the chain being too short, so I figured I'd start out longer and see how it works for a bit. Easy enough to take out a link later if I need to, though after a few rides now it feels fine.


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## offroadwarrior (Sep 4, 2013)

Has anyone else had experience with a long cage non clutch derailleur? 
I'm looking to make the switch, but not wanting to drop more money on a more parts tha necessary. Any feedback would be appreciated!


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

That's what I have, so far it's been fine zero dropped chains.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

9spd, longcage, slx for me - about a month of use and no issues.


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## niksalad (Sep 5, 2013)

I have one of these on order. How would I go about installing it on deore xt cranks? presumably it goes where the old middle ring was but can I use the same bolts and would it need spacers?


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

niksalad said:


> I have one of these on order. How would I go about installing it on deore xt cranks? presumably it goes where the old middle ring was but can I use the same bolts and would it need spacers?


Did you get a 30t or bigger?

The 30t has the female bolt side installed into the crank, so you only need the male side from your current crank.

If you have a bigger-32t,34t, etc. You will either need single ring chainring bolts, or spacers. Raceface makes a "tab spacer" which looks nice if you have black cranks, or you can do what I've done in the past and buy lock ring washers that fit over the female side of the chainring bolt. I don't remember which size it is, but I was able to barely squeeze the lockring washer on, it was easiest to smack it in place with a hammer. Did that on a fixed gear with zero issues.


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## niksalad (Sep 5, 2013)

I have the 32t. So should just be a case of single chainring bolts?


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## offroadwarrior (Sep 4, 2013)

newfangled said:


> 9spd, longcage, slx for me - about a month of use and no issues.


Have you done any technical, or steep riding with it?


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

offroadwarrior said:


> Have you done any technical, or steep riding with it?


I'm not much of a jumper, so no big hits. But plenty of roots, chatter and mud. I used to have an ss ring, and if I rode without a jumpstop I'd drop the chain every 30'. But with the narrow/wide I haven't had any problems.


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## lew242 (Aug 7, 2008)

I'm running SRAM X7 short cage non clutch (obviously) RD and 32T Narrow/wide. 200 miles no drops and less chain slap. If you are worrying about going to a clutch RD don't bother, a short cage seems enough with a 9 speed. Can't talk about mid and long cage RD's, haven't tried. With 9 speed Narrow/Wide never made any weird noises in break in probably due to the wider chain.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Rode last night on my first real ride, before it was just a mile or so test ride.

Running a long cage 9spd XTR RD, 30t RaceFace N/W Singlering, 11-34 cassette.

Rode a trail up and down 3 miles each way, a bit sandy with a bit of a roll to the trail. Shifted constantly going up-zero dropped chains.

Coming back down there aren't a lot of jumps, like 2 or three small jumps with a max of 2 feet off the ground, a few rock gardens that really throw the back of the bike around (hardtail). Zero issues going down. 

I rode up the trail twice, went down the dirt 1 time, the second time it was too dark so I rode down a paved road. I could hear a little bit of the "dry chain" sound on the road.

The 30t is okay, definately can't go as fast downhill as I would like in the wide open sections compared to the 32t middle ring I did have. The uphills were okay, there were a few times I wish I had the 22t, but not at the risk of dropping my chain when down-shifting. 

Be nice to have the 1x11 setup, or at least a 11-36 rear cassette. Wish I could have a 6 speed rear cassette, 9-36! I double click down or up every single time, almost, not much use for the in-between gears on the trails where I live, or the legs that I have.


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## offroadwarrior (Sep 4, 2013)

unrooted said:


> Rode last night on my first real ride, before it was just a mile or so test ride.
> 
> Running a long cage 9spd XTR RD, 30t RaceFace N/W Singlering, 11-34 cassette.
> 
> ...


Well, this was the exact kind of review I was looking for. Thank you! I think I'll make the jump soon. Or possibly once next season starts!
thanks again!


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## Lindahl (Aug 9, 2011)

unrooted said:


> Does anyone know of a clutch deraileur that works on 9 speed and 10speed, and is mid to short cage?
> 
> I just ordered a 30t, but I am running 9spd, and I really don't want to swap my entire drivetrain.


If you have a sram shifter, get a shimano clutch d (shadow+ or zee) and use a 1/4" nut to space the cable clamp. Perfect shifting. Search google shimano 10 speed with sram shifter. Been running this for a couple weeks now.


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## rideit (Jan 22, 2004)

Anyone know what BCD's are available for the 28t narrow/wide chainrings?


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## Tarekith (Mar 9, 2005)

After a couple weeks using mine on all sorts of terrain from rocky steep descents at high speed, to the bike park, to rolling flowy singletrack and days of 4000' climbing, I'm still really happy with ditching my 2x10 setup. Not one dropped chain, everything works great. A few things I noticed after more time using the Narrow Wide:

- It does tend to get a little noisy when my chain gets dirtier. Normally it's fine, but after a dusty day one on trail I could definitely tell it was a little bit louder than a normal chainring. Bike washed, problem solved.

- Still takes a bit of time to unlearn the habit of wanting to just dump a bunch of gear with a FD when things go uphill suddenly. One of the local trails I usually ride is a lot of small up and down rolly hills, and some days I use nothing by my FD to switch between climb and descend. Easy enough to drop 2-3 at a press with the SRAM levers, but still takes some re-learning to do automatically 

- Climbing still hasn't been a problem, I really am not missing my granny gear nearly as much as I thought on some of the steeper climbs. It's a little more work, but not so much that I mind much. 

- On the opposite end of things, I could definitely see running out of gears on the top end, which was not what I was expecting. I'm still moving pretty fast when I get to the end of my cassette, but I could see wanting to go a bit faster on some descents. Probably not going to be a problem, doesn't make me want a 32t for example. Just thought it was funny that for years I was worried about not being able to go low enough in my gear range if I went 1x10, and it turns out that I might have to worry about the high end!

- Less drag from even a smooth chain guide and a much quieter bike are the real joys of the set up. I still get enough chain slap on the really rough stuff that I will definitely be keep my chain stay protector on. Still, vastly quieter than before, love it. Running a Clutch X9 RD, which also has been working flawlessly.

- More clearance than I was thinking there would be with the 30t and no bash guard anymore. For normal trail riding it's been great, though at the bike park yesterday I did slide off a slippery log ride and end up doing a pretty cool bmx style bb grind. Luckily the Narrow Wide held up fine, though I do wonder if there's maybe a small bashguard I could get to protect the 30t from stuff like this?

Anyway, awesome upgrade, easily one of the best things I've ever done on a mtn bike to make it more fun. So cheap too.


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

Thanks for the good review! Mine comes in today. Excited to try it out.


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## redznc (Sep 9, 2007)

Right now I am running the 34t with an x9 type 2 long cage rear mech. I've actually had 4-5 chain drops since I threw it on about a week ago. I'm definitely perplexed as no one else seems to be having nearly as many drops, even with a long cage setup. I could definitely shorten the chain a couple more links, but is there anything else obvious that I may be doing wrong?


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## loamranger (Oct 26, 2006)

Tarekith, nice review. :thumbsup:


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## Lindahl (Aug 9, 2011)

redznc said:


> Right now I am running the 34t with an x9 type 2 long cage rear mech. I've actually had 4-5 chain drops since I threw it on about a week ago. I'm definitely perplexed as no one else seems to be having nearly as many drops, even with a long cage setup. I could definitely shorten the chain a couple more links, but is there anything else obvious that I may be doing wrong?


Chain length is the likely culprit. Makes a big difference.


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

manbat said:


> Is the tooth height on these single rings higher than normal ramped rings?
> 
> I converted to 1 x 10 with a shimano zee m640 freeride thinking i could ditch all the crap up front but had trouble with the chain jumping off the top of a middle ramped chainring.
> 
> if the tooth height is lower on standard chainrings that probably explains it


The ramped chainrings are designed to lose the chain easier, otherwise changing gear would be a nightmare. Dedicated single rings tend to have deeper teeth to help hold the chain on. If you went to a dedicated single ring you may cut down the amount of dropped chains.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

offroadwarrior said:


> Well, this was the exact kind of review I was looking for. Thank you! I think I'll make the jump soon. Or possibly once next season starts!
> thanks again!


Two real rides in Tahoe this week, 2 dropped chains (Long cage derraileur 9 speed).

Both dropped chains occurred after coasting and the chain fell to the outside. Wasn't bumpy or rocky. Not sure what caused the drops, could have been back pedaling??? Chain stayed on in the rocky sections, big jumps and in constant shifts. I want to upgrade to 10spped /clutch when I can afford it!


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## ZmyDust (May 13, 2011)

Lots of talk about the Wolftooth Narrow/Wide ring. Anybody use both and care to compare the two?


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## 8iking VIIking (Dec 20, 2012)

ZmyDust said:


> Lots of talk about the Wolftooth Narrow/Wide ring. Anybody use both and care to compare the two?


They're pretty much the same thing. Same design, same material


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

Dropped over 1lb. Looks amazing. Easy to install. 

First real test today. Did a 12 mile sprint that has climbing descending, rocks, roots and some small drops. Shifted perfect and never dropped a chain. It was quiet for me as well. I didnt take any links out.
Sram 970 cassette, Xt shifter, Xtr long cage der w/o clutch, 30t RF NW chainring. 

Did I mention that it looks awesome?! Pics to come.


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)




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## ZmyDust (May 13, 2011)

moefosho said:


> Dropped over 1lb. Looks amazing. Easy to install.
> 
> First real test today. Did a 12 mile sprint that has climbing descending, rocks, roots and some small drops. Shifted perfect and never dropped a chain. It was quiet for me as well. I didnt take any links out.
> Sram 970 cassette, Xt shifter, Xtr long cage der w/o clutch, 30t RF NW chainring.
> ...


Awesome. hoping you might be able to update us after a few more rides about drop/non drop of the chain. I also will be trying out this setup with a 32t. on a HT with a long cage non clutch X9 RD.

My ring won't be here until the end of the month, so until then, all I can do is live vicarously through you all.


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

I will be riding a mountain downhill course tomorrow with a lot of features and drops. about 3000 ft vertical of singletrack. It is about as gnarly as I get on my bike at this time. So that will be the ultimate test for me.

Couple extra pics. Hope this helps!


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## micky (Jan 28, 2004)

do you need spacers for a 30t. It looks like the chain would dig or get stuck on the crank arm. I would love to get that little bit more of climbing ability and lose a chainguide at the same time. (I have a shimano 9 speed by the way).


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

There is enough space to where it doesn't rub.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

BikeRadar gave it 5 out of 5 stars. Pretty rare to get that rating.

~$40 is a pretty damn good price compared to all the others. I thought it was $60 when I first saw it announced, until I looked into it a couple weeks ago, and saw that was just the price for the 30T option. Thinking about seeing how 1x works on my other bikes too.


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## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

micky said:


> do you need spacers for a 30t. It looks like the chain would dig or get stuck on the crank arm. I would love to get that little bit more of climbing ability and lose a chainguide at the same time. (I have a shimano 9 speed by the way).


try flip it. It should work. Busy graphic face outside.


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## Lindahl (Aug 9, 2011)

inter said:


> try flip it. It should work. Busy graphic face outside.


Which I hate by the way. Wish they didn't plaster the logo all over it.


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## pigmode (Nov 15, 2009)

Just ordered a 30t Raceface narrow/wide for a soon-to-be 1x10 conversion of a 2013 El Mariachi SS. Starting from scratch, I also ordered a Saint short cage RD and shifters.

Would I be correct that the Truvativ crank on the El Mariachi, would have a proper chainline?


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## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

I have 3 rides so far , 32t, xt der non clutch. Has a bit of chainslap on rocky decent. I dropped almost 1/2 lb. 
No chain drop for now, quite happy with it. I did shortened my chain a few months ago just to get more tension.
Pretty quiet without the guide. 
I am a trail rider, with small jumps or drops, this things works as it should for now.


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

After "shredding the gnar" this weekend, I can honestly say that I am very impressed and it works like promised. Jumps, drops, roots, rocks, pedaling backwards... I tried it all and never dropped a chain.


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## ZmyDust (May 13, 2011)

Hi All - I ordered a 32t Red ring from Arts Cyclery, and they told me before placing the order it wouldn't be in stock to ship until around 9/30.

I'm switching from 3x10 to 1x10 and I also ordered new chain ring bolts, and I just want to be sure these will work for this ring. Can anybody confirm? These are nonthreaded, 6.5mm bolts. Will I be good to go?

e*thirteen Chainring Bolt Set Alloy/Steel


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## Strafer.2 (Aug 6, 2012)

inter said:


> try flip it. It should work. Busy graphic face outside.


You can't do that with 30t ring, it only goes in one way (thicker on the outside)


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## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

Strafer.2 said:


> You can't do that with 30t ring, it only goes in one way (thicker on the outside)


Yup only 1 way, the busy graphic outside.


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## ZmyDust (May 13, 2011)

ZmyDust said:


> Hi All - I ordered a 32t Red ring from Arts Cyclery, and they told me before placing the order it wouldn't be in stock to ship until around 9/30.
> 
> I'm switching from 3x10 to 1x10 and I also ordered new chain ring bolts, and I just want to be sure these will work for this ring. Can anybody confirm? These are nonthreaded, 6.5mm bolts. Will I be good to go?
> 
> e*thirteen Chainring Bolt Set Alloy/Steel


Anybody?


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## dharel1705 (May 21, 2012)

Just installed earlier this evening. No chain links removed. I'm not sure exactly how much weight I saved, but I'd guess at minimum 1/2 a pound. 1st ride won't be until Sunday.

32T Narrow/Wide
SRAM X9 Long Cage Derailleur
SRAM PG 970 11-34 9 Speed Cassette
SRAM PC 971 Chain


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## dharel1705 (May 21, 2012)

ZmyDust said:


> Anybody?


I think Wolftooth recommends 6mm bolts, and their ring is pretty much the same design as the Race Face. I ordered these from Art's and had to use the washers. Since everything is black, I can't even tell they are on there. See my post above.


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## ZmyDust (May 13, 2011)

dharel1705 said:


> I think Wolftooth recommends 6mm bolts, and their ring is pretty much the same design as the Race Face. I ordered these from Art's and had to use the washers. Since everything is black, I can't even tell they are on there. See my post above.


Thanks. Probably would have considered those but why would they list them without specifying the length in mm?

Who knows. The ones I have on order are 6.5mm so hopefully they work.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

If the bolts are too long go to the hardware store and grab some cheap washers.


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

I recently converted from 2x10 to 1x10 + added an adapter to my cassette that made it into 11-42 and have a RF 34 t up front run in the large ring position - it works fine, but chain line isn't great - been running it for a couple months and a few 100 miles including some gnarly stuff, big drops and jumps - I don't drop the chain on drops or gnarly stuff, but do sometimes when I suddenly slow down (skid) and quickly downshift like when I'm transitioning to a climb.

I'm wondering if my chain is too long? - I used the big/big +2 links rule, but wonder if this applies to 1x as well? - here is a pic of my setup:









Also, is it worth it to try to get some spacers to try to center the chain line?


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## hey_poolboy (Jul 16, 2012)

I was wondering about spacing my chainring over toward the BB shell a little as well. Here's a pic of my chain line.










Just got it all put together tonight. Raceface 32t, xt plus rear der. 11-36 cassette, and a borrowed slx shifter. Haven't ridden it yet except for around the yard. The chain line doesn't seem to be a problem, but it looks pretty wacky.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

Your chainline will never be straight at the outer ends of the cassette. It should be fairly straight in the middle of the cassette. Chainline is really only important on a single speed.


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## hey_poolboy (Jul 16, 2012)

I know it won't be straight. I was just checking to see if this is too out of whack. 
My bb won't move over any further, so I was wondering if I needed to put spacers behind the chain ring. After thinking it over, though, I don't think I could move it enough to make much difference. 
Took my first ride on it today. 22m of singletrack. Dropped into the novice dh course to test it out real good. 
Not a single issue. Heck, I never even heard it bounce. I didn't fly down the course being ht and all, but so far I'm thrilled. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4


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## 8iking VIIking (Dec 20, 2012)

hey_poolboy said:


> I know it won't be straight. I was just checking to see if this is too out of whack.
> My bb won't move over any further, so I was wondering if I needed to put spacers behind the chain ring. After thinking it over, though, I don't think I could move it enough to make much difference.
> Took my first ride on it today. 22m of singletrack. Dropped into the novice dh course to test it out real good.
> Not a single issue. Heck, I never even heard it bounce. I didn't fly down the course being ht and all, but so far I'm thrilled.
> ...


I wouldn't be too worried about it if I was you. It looks about right from the pic

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4


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## dharel1705 (May 21, 2012)

I managed to sneak out for a quick evening ride with my new 1x9 setup. Not a single issue to report. Shifting was smooth and the narrow-wide ring seemed to quiet down once I really started going. I'm very pleased with my decision to go 1x9, and the Race Face Narrow/Wide ring is a great piece of gear.


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## askoller88 (Aug 13, 2012)

I'm really excited to read all of these post as I have my new narrow wide sitting on my table ready to go on. But I was most impressed about the fact that I don't need a chain guide to run the set up. I have all the other hardware I need, new race face crank, new race face bb, new chainring bolts and new race face ring. I was trying to figure out what guide to get but I think I'm just gonna run it without it and see how it goes.

But does anyone run a bash guard with these rings? I run one now on my 2x9 and I'd like to run my bash on this set up as well.


Andrew


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## dharel1705 (May 21, 2012)

askoller88 said:


> But does anyone run a bash guard with these rings? I run one now on my 2x9 and I'd like to run my bash on this set up as well. Andrew


Most will tell you they don't. You are welcome to, of course, but the idea behind these rings is that neither bash or chain guide/tensioner is needed.


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## hey_poolboy (Jul 16, 2012)

Mine has a bash on it. I would have ditched it, but my chain ring bolts were too long and I needed the bash to use as a "shim" to take up the extra bolt length.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

askoller88 said:


> But does anyone run a bash guard with these rings? I run one now on my 2x9 and I'd like to run my bash on this set up as well.


I really like bashguards so I'm still happily running mine with my narrow/wide. It's just nice to be able to lose the guide/jumpstop.


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## askoller88 (Aug 13, 2012)

alright cool. I'll probably still run mine then anyway just because I like the idea of having one just to protect it from bashing lol. But it would be cool to show off the color of my ring. I got the alien green one. Lol


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## Carloswithac (Feb 6, 2012)

Got it installed this morning. I'm going to test ride it tomorrow and will see how it goes.


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## Tarekith (Mar 9, 2005)

You won't need that Bionicon  So glad to get rid of mine....

What bashguards are you guys using with the 32t? I wasn't going to run one, but there's been a few times at the bike park I've slid off some wood work and wished I would have had one. Haven't seen any really small ones though.


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## Carloswithac (Feb 6, 2012)

I went on a test ride this morning and as expected, no issues with it. I went through some rock gardens and bumpy section and no dropped chains. I did notice the noise everyone is talking about, it's not overly loud, but I noticed it. I probably wouldn't have noticed it had I not read about it in this thread.



Tarekith said:


> You won't need that Bionicon  So glad to get rid of mine....
> 
> What bashguards are you guys using with the 32t? I wasn't going to run one, but there's been a few times at the bike park I've slid off some wood work and wished I would have had one. Haven't seen any really small ones though.


Yea, I figured it would lessen chainslap and I had it laying around on the extra frame. I don't plan on running a bashguard. Most of my riding is XC and nothing outrageous. No jumps or anything extreme. I did miss the 22 on one climb today. I made it up, but I'm sure my quads will be sore tomorrow.

Carlos


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## goodoljake (Jul 31, 2011)

Anyone out there actually using this on a SRAM XX1 set up? I wore out my XX1 chainring at about 500 miles and am looking for a longer lasting solution. thanks.


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## someoldfart (Mar 14, 2013)

The XX1 bolt pattern is unique. There are some aftermarket spiders from NSB for one that allow 1 x10 104 BCD Spider for SRAM X0 & X9 Cranks | North Shore Billet you to use other chain rings that are your more standard 104 bcd or their direct mount ring but that doesn't come in wide narrow yet.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

So I've been running my Narrow Wide 30T Race Face, XTR Long Cage (non-clutch) 9 speed set up for a few weeks now.

I have been dropping my chain quite a bit lately! Not exactly sure what is causing this, one possibility is due to not cleaning my bike since installing this set-up. I'll try cleaning my chain and ring to see if that solves anything. 

My theory is that the dirty ring is causing chainsuck especially on a backpedal then when I go to pedal the chain has so much slack that it pops right off. 

I would love to go to a clutch, but I don't want to spend the money on a full 10 speed set up right now.


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

unrooted said:


> So I've been running my Narrow Wide 30T Race Face, XTR Long Cage (non-clutch) 9 speed set up for a few weeks now.
> 
> I have been dropping my chain quite a bit lately! Not exactly sure what is causing this, one possibility is due to not cleaning my bike since installing this set-up. I'll try cleaning my chain and ring to see if that solves anything.
> 
> ...


Strange. I've been running mine for a couple months now with a non-clutch X9 and no drops at all. And last ride was seriously rocky!


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## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

unrooted said:


> So I've been running my Narrow Wide 30T Race Face, XTR Long Cage (non-clutch) 9 speed set up for a few weeks now.
> 
> I have been dropping my chain quite a bit lately! Not exactly sure what is causing this, one possibility is due to not cleaning my bike since installing this set-up. I'll try cleaning my chain and ring to see if that solves anything.
> 
> ...


Try shorten the chain, a couple of links maybe, to get more tension.
Mine has been flawless for a month, with xt rd non clutch, 1x10. I did shortened my chain awhile back to get more tension.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I already have the chain as short as possible! It only happens when I'm in the smallest rear gear! I have the b-screw already as tight as possible as well.


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## Chris_T (Feb 21, 2005)

Carloswithac said:


> Got it installed this morning. I'm going to test ride it tomorrow and will see how it goes.


Is that really a Smurf driving a T-bird?


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

unrooted said:


> So I've been running my Narrow Wide 30T Race Face, XTR Long Cage (non-clutch) 9 speed
> 
> I would love to go to a clutch, but I don't want to spend the money on a full 10 speed set up right now.


How about picking up/borrowing a mid cage to see if that helps any?


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## Jack Jack (Sep 7, 2011)

I had been using the RF narrow chainring for about 2 month now.. initially I did get chaindrop but that was due to the fact that I didn't tune the rear dee after installing it and not shortening the chainline. once that was done.. the shift was good and I didn't get any drops. I am currently using it on my XTR980 crankset and its 32t. 
you might need the single chainring bolts if u are coming in from a 2x10 crank setup.


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## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

unrooted said:


> I already have the chain as short as possible! It only happens when I'm in the smallest rear gear! I have the b-screw already as tight as possible as well.


Ok, my guess is your chainline needs to be moved outward a bit because your chaindrop happens only when on smallest rear gear. Too much chain crossing.

put a spacer on your crank to move the chainline outward. Hope this helps.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

inter said:


> Ok, my guess is your chainline needs to be moved outward a bit because your chaindrop happens only when on smallest rear gear. Too much chain crossing.
> 
> put a spacer on your crank to move the chainline outward. Hope this helps.


My frame has a 73mm shell, so it doesn't have room for a spacer, I think. Am I wrong on this???


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

I just installed a narrow/wide 30t 104BCD ring on my Nimble 9. I had to use a 2.5mm spacer on the drive side (already was with the 32t also), and it clears the chainstay with about 2mm to spare. I installed it without a bash since I've also got a zee clutch derailleur, but I haven't tried it yet to see how it holds the chain. Moving the ring in due to the machined in spacer helped a little with the chainline, but not a lot.


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## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

unrooted said:


> My frame has a 73mm shell, so it doesn't have room for a spacer, I think. Am I wrong on this???


you still can put a spacer, thin one, like 0.5mm,0.7mm, or 1mm.


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## toycrawler (Sep 23, 2013)

Noob question?

What all is involved in swapping to a single gear crank. Im running a 3 gear Shimano Deore right now and would love to change it.


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## ZmyDust (May 13, 2011)

After waiting a few weeks for a backordered blue 32t RF N/W ring, I called arts and told them to go ahead and send the black one, and it was delivered this morning.

Installed, and took a 6 mile ride, not necessarily trying to drop the chain but riding on the harder side of what I usually do with plenty of twists and roots, and no issues at all, no drops! Not even any chain slap, I did take 2 links out of the chain, but if I have future chain slap I can take a few more out. Running a long cage x9 RD non clutch.

I might pick up a pack of those raceface spacers to make it a little prettier, and would definitly need some type of washers if I fasted the ring the other way, but honestly I prefer the the side without the crazy RF etchings. Very satisfied so far.

New toys:


Before:


After:


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## dharel1705 (May 21, 2012)

toycrawler said:


> Noob question?
> 
> What all is involved in swapping to a single gear crank. Im running a 3 gear Shimano Deore right now and would love to change it.


1. Remove crank
2. Remove original chain rings
3. Replace original middle chain ring with new single ring, using single ring bolts
4. Reinstall crank
5. Remove front derailleur and front shifter
6. Ride it like you stole it


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

unrooted said:


> I would love to go to a clutch, but I don't want to spend the money on a full 10 speed set up right now.


You're aware that a SRAM 9speed shifter works perfectly with the Shimano clutch system if you add a spacer and a longer bolt?


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

unrooted said:


> My frame has a 73mm shell, so it doesn't have room for a spacer, I think. Am I wrong on this???


My N9 has a 73mm shell and I've been running a 2.5mm spacer on the drive side since new. You just have to try it with your bb/crank combo. I've used Shimano and SRAM on my bike, with the 2.5mm spacer.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

i have an xt shifter


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

wv_bob said:


> You're aware that a SRAM 9speed shifter works perfectly with the Shimano clutch system if you add a spacer and a longer bolt?
> View attachment 836842


Doesn't help with the setup they're running now though, this setup works with SRAM 9spd shifters on a Shimano 10spd Dyna Sis RR der w/9spd cassette, right?

I've seen some posts with the fix you're showing, what function does that peice help with? Can't recall now. I know there's some home shop parts bin fixes and saw some manufactured fittings offered as well.


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## toycrawler (Sep 23, 2013)

dharel1705 said:


> 1. Remove crank
> 2. Remove original chain rings
> 3. Replace original middle chain ring with new single ring, using single ring bolts
> 4. Reinstall crank
> ...


Sweet. That's what I was hoping. Thanks


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

JMac47 said:


> Doesn't help with the setup they're running now though, this setup works with SRAM 9spd shifters on a Shimano 10spd Dyna Sis RR der w/9spd cassette, right?
> 
> I've seen some posts with the fix you're showing, what function does that peice help with? Can't recall now. I know there's some home shop parts bin fixes and saw some manufactured fittings offered as well.


Yes, it requires SRAM 9spd shifters and a Shimano 10 speed. I already had the parts laying around and got tired of throwing the chain so I gave it a shot.

That piece moves the cable attachment point to alter the pull ratio. I'm not sure how they figured out how far to move it, but it works great.


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

ZmyDust said:


> I might pick up a pack of those raceface spacers to make it a little prettier, and would definitly need some type of washers if I fasted the ring the other way, but honestly I prefer the the side without the crazy RF etchings. Very satisfied so far.


I may end up having to turn my ring around and do some filing on the crank ears to get chain clearance to make the ring work on my Nimble 9. After posting above I got a reply from Sean at Canfield to say the frame will flex enough to hit the teeth on the chainstay as it is.

I agree about the graphics. I put mine on backward at first but noticed the chain would hit the mounting ears like that.

With enough spacers to have clearance at the chainstay, the NDS arm fits like this, and I'm not sure if I should trust it. It'll end up like this even if I switch from BB spacers to spindle spacers.









Update: I tried mounting the ring on the outside of the crank with no spacers but that screwed the chainline so bad I took it right back apart.

In the end I found a thin singlespeed spacer and ended up with a that and a 2.5 BB spacer, plus the 73mm BB width. So it's about a mm safer than that photo shows. To sanity check the set up I made sure the outer pinch bolt is over the spindle, and also, since the safety pin is long gone, I put a paint dab on what's left of it up through that hole. From that I can see that it's only off by about the width of the pin, so I have hope that Shimano over-engineered things there and a small difference will still be OK.

I popped some wheelies here around the neighborhood and didn't die, and am hoping that if it does go south on me, it'll do it slowly and not suddenly.

Update 2: I went for a ride, the crank arm stayed on and so did the chain. :thumbsup:


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Yeah apparently only on the XTR. I'm getting ready to setup new frame build(mostly w/parts I have) and use my X0 9spd gripshift and get an XT dyna 10spd clutch der which doesn't need that cable extn fitting(~$70). Probably get an XT 10 spd chain for the der which will supposedly work on my 9spd XTR cassette. Just have to decide on which brand of n/w ring and tooth count.


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## rideit (Jan 22, 2004)

unrooted said:


> i have an xt shifter


Well that's nice.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

rideit said:


> Well that's nice.


Dude he was replying to, well trying to anyway, to wvbobs comment on using a SRAM shifter. Uprooted has an xt so that fix wouldn't work.


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

unrooted said:


> i have an xt shifter


Sorry I missed that reply and caused downstream confusion and snark. 9 speed sram can be found on ebay dirt cheap. Or, at least cheaper than new shimano shifters.


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

JMac47 said:


> Yeah apparently only on the XTR. I'm getting ready to setup new frame build(mostly w/parts I have) and use my X0 9spd gripshift and get an XT dyna 10spd clutch der which doesn't need that cable extn fitting(~$70). Probably get an XT 10 spd chain for the der which will supposedly work on my 9spd XTR cassette. Just have to decide on which brand of n/w ring and tooth count.


I hope you're right, but since the difference is in how much cable the shifter needs to pull I don't see how XT would be excluded from needing the cable mount moved to work with SRAM 9spd. I've got a ZEE and it needed it.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

wv_bob said:


> I hope you're right, but since the difference is in how much cable the shifter needs to pull I don't see how XT would be excluded from needing the cable mount moved to work with SRAM 9spd. I've got a ZEE and it needed it.


Not 100% been doing a lot of research and thats what comes to mind but could be blurred TMI thinking. In either case its not a big peice to get. I'll do some more checking.


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

^ FWIW when I set my bike up, I'd seen some sporadic reports of not needing the spacer because it was "close enough". I could get my bike to shift almost right that way, but not good enough until I added the spacer.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Thanks I will plan on making mod when I get derailure.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

If I'm going to spend the money I may as well get the 10 speed so I can run the xt 11-36.


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## ride the biscuit (Jun 4, 2009)

wv_bob said:


> I hope you're right, but since the difference is in how much cable the shifter needs to pull I don't see how XT would be excluded from needing the cable mount moved to work with SRAM 9spd. I've got a ZEE and it needed it.


hey guys, stumbled into this thread pretty randomly, but wanted to add myself as a data point for you: I have been using 10 spd zee der with, 32t front chainring (NOT NARROW-WIDE), gamut chainguide, 9speed sram X0 shifter and 9 spd 11-34t sram cassette, and mine shifts great without anything different on the cable mount...actually its all completely stock. this was actually the first time I've heard about that.

i wonder if it has anything to do with the range of the rear cassette? but i really cant think of why wvbob and i had a different experience with it

Now, back on the Narrow/wide topic; would be nice if someone that has been following the thread can provide a summary:
- are AM and Freeriders dropping chains? 
- does it work with 9 speed, too or just 10 and 11? 
- are people still dropping chains in rough conditions with top guide only? 
- could a top guide only be enough with clutch der WITHOUT a Narrow/wide ring in rough conditions?


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## dharel1705 (May 21, 2012)

^^^
Can't answer your other questions, but they do work with 9 speed drivetrains. See my post on page 3.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

ride the biscuit said:


> hey guys, stumbled into this thread pretty randomly, but wanted to add myself as a data point for you: I have been using 10 spd zee der with, 32t front chainring (NOT NARROW-WIDE), gamut chainguide, 9speed sram X0 shifter and 9 spd 11-34t sram cassette, and mine oshifts great without anything different on the cable mount...actually its all completely stock. this was actually the first time I've heard about that.
> 
> i wonder if it has anything to do with the range of the rear cassette? but i really cant think of why wvbob and i had a different experience with it
> 
> ...


Couple of pointers:

First off if you get a RF n/w or Wolftooth ring you "may" be able to run without chainguide and be fine if its a hardtail. FS AM or FR rig probably not.

What wv_ and I have been discussing is being able to run a "clutch" type RR der when running a 9spd drive train. Since they don't make such a beast, you have to mix-match and get a 10spd Shimano Dyna Sis Shadow "+" der which has a similar pull ratio to SRAM. You get a 10spd chain to match up running thru the 10spd roller wheels on der but still use your 9spd cassette. The XO shifter is still mechanically running over 9 cogs but the throw of the der is adjusted by the hi-low limit screws.

So in closing, if you get a new der, chain along with the narrow wide ring you can keep your 9spd setup, well what's left of it anyway, and have a chain-drop free setup.
Seems like a lot of work to modify vs going all out with new 10spd group. The alternative to get the 10spd XO shifter and comparative quality cassette is up to your budget. 'Cause you know how easy it is for us on the Inturwibz to spend other people's $$.


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

ride the biscuit said:


> hey guys, stumbled into this thread pretty randomly, but wanted to add myself as a data point for you: I have been using 10 spd zee der with, 32t front chainring (NOT NARROW-WIDE), gamut chainguide, 9speed sram X0 shifter and 9 spd 11-34t sram cassette, and mine shifts great without anything different on the cable mount...actually its all completely stock. this was actually the first time I've heard about that.
> 
> i wonder if it has anything to do with the range of the rear cassette? but i really cant think of why wvbob and i had a different experience with it
> 
> ...


I ride mostly AM / Enduro but also dabble in FR / DH and have been running a N/W RF 34t for about 5-6 months with a XTR Shadow+ (10 speed). I ride through some pretty gnarly stuff and do a lot of jumps & drops. I had only a Bionicon c guide for about 2 months and didn't drop once, then broke that c guide and have been running w/ no guide. Since then, I do occasionally drop but it seems like it is usually when I come to an abrupt stop, not when going over rough stuff or drops - it is annoying enough that I do want some additional light chain retention - I wish the Bionicon wasn't so weak (and expensive).


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## ride the biscuit (Jun 4, 2009)

JMac47 said:


> What wv_ and I have been discussing is being able to run a "clutch" type RR der when running a 9spd drive train. Since they don't make such a beast, you have to mix-match and get a 10spd Shimano Dyna Sis Shadow "+" der which has a similar pull ratio to SRAM. *You get a 10spd chain to match up running thru the 10spd roller wheels on der but still use your 9spd cassette.* The XO shifter is still mechanically running over 9 cogs but the throw of the der is adjusted by the hi-low limit screws.


Yes yes, I am with you on all that. Pardon, I somewhat muddled two distinct concepts: the 9speed/clutch der "hack" VERSUS the narrow wide chain retention issue

the primary difference I note versus my 9speed clutch der "hack" setup is that I simply continued to run my 9 speed chain through my 10 speed Zee rear der. I still cant see how that would mean I'd get away with better shifting without modding the cable clamp point, but mine works great (watch, next time I go to use it it will explode now that i said that )

another way to describe my setup is that ALL I bought was a 10 speed Zee shadow plus der and slapped it onto my sram 9 speed 1x9 setup, and thats it thats all

Thanks Skyno. As far as I can tell, these narrow wide setups are not failsafe enough on their own for riding a full suspension rig over rowdy terrain. In the AM thread, a new evil uprising owner has been completely unsuccessful going that route. I dont race but one single chain drop still = major fail. No patience for it whatsoever


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

skyno said:


> I ride mostly AM / Enduro but also dabble in FR / DH and have been running a N/W RF 34t for about 5-6 months with a XTR Sjhadow+ (10 speed). I ride through some pretty gnarly stuff and do a lot of jumps & drops. I had only a Bionicon c guide for about 2 months and didn't drop once, then broke that c guide and have been running w/ no guide. Since then, I do occasionally drop but it seems like it is usually when I come to an abrupt stop, not when going over rough stuff or drops - it is annoying enough that I do want some additional light chain retention - I wish the Bionicon wasn't so weak (and expensive).


Yeah I've resigned my C-Guide to light duty use on the 1x hard tail.


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## ride the biscuit (Jun 4, 2009)

actually come to think about it, the 10 speed chain could be the culprit since its narrower. it makes sense that a wider chain would give you more margin for shifting error, despite that margin must be very small. cant see what else would cause your problem


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

ride the biscuit said:


> hey guys, stumbled into this thread pretty randomly, but wanted to add myself as a data point for you: I have been using 10 spd zee der with, 32t front chainring (NOT NARROW-WIDE), gamut chainguide, 9speed sram X0 shifter and 9 spd 11-34t sram cassette, and mine shifts great without anything different on the cable mount...actually its all completely stock. this was actually the first time I've heard about that.
> 
> i wonder if it has anything to do with the range of the rear cassette? but i really cant think of why wvbob and i had a different experience with it
> 
> ...


1. Depends on your definition of AM or FR I guess. My local areas have lots and lots of drops in the 2-4" range, lots of steep rolls, tight and twisty trialsy stuff, lots of wheelie drop opportunities. Quick transitions between short and steep descents and climbs. Our descents are short, but very chunky with lots of play options.

2. Yes with 9, 10 or 11.

3. Not really, unless chainline is waaay off, running too long a chain, or not a clutch rear mech. At least from what I'm interpreting from various internet chatter.

4. Sort of. I (and others) ran that setup prior to the N/W rings. I'd have a once in a blue moon chain jamming issue. Also much noisier in the chainslap department. The clutch rear is sweet. If buying/needing a new rear mech, IMO, no reason to NOT go clutch, unless you just can't afford it, or are riding stuff that is so smooth and flat as to not "need" one.

Now have three bikes (burly hardtail, 5" trailbike, 7" do it all/lift area bike) all with N/W rings, short clutch rear mechs, top guides only. 11-36 cassettes on all three. 28t on one, 30t on the other two rings. No issues, even with lots of chunky terrain and a couple of lift days at Highland and Diablo on the big bike.

IMO, a bash or top guide is still needed some areas/some riding. You'll protect a spendy chainring, and prevent a potential drop. Sure, these rings are good at preventing chaindrop, but they aren't 100% secure. I don't imagine they'll work nearly as well once the ring/chain get worn a bit...and you've not quite gotten about to sticking the new one on...

My hardtail runs a top only (e.13 XCX guide) and the other two bikes have MRP AM-Guides. Keeps it from bouncing off the top, and protects the ring. My drops in the past have tended to be to the inside off the bottom and to the outside off the top. These guides work great for that, and since there is no roller involved, don't add any friction to the system. Only a touch of weight - which I'll take for keeping the chain on and protecting the ring.

Sorry, long winded. I want a way to run a 10speed Saint rear clutch with my 10speed SRAM stuff, or SRAM to come out with a beefier 10speed clutch rear - I'll take the weight penalty if it means they'll take more of a beating. While we're at it, a 11-38 or 11-40 10speed cassette would rock... other than the $400 KCNC titanium one... Would be much nicer, rather then cludging something together with the General Lee adapter or add on 38/40 cogs. Probably not going to happen though, so when my current 10speed stuff gets knackered enough, 1x11 it'll be.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

ride the biscuit said:


> Yes yes, I am with you on all that. Pardon, I somewhat muddled two distinct concepts: the 9speed/clutch der "hack" VERSUS the narrow wide chain retention issue
> 
> the primary difference I note versus my 9speed clutch der "hack" setup is that I simply continued to run my 9 speed chain through my 10 speed Zee rear der. I still cant see how that would mean I'd get away with better shifting without modding the cable clamp point, but mine works great (watch, next time I go to use it it will explode now that i said that )
> 
> ...


Heh heh, duh my bad too as I muddled my reply for two different posts.  Good on you for making it work with the Zee. I've seen they work well and economical too. Pardon my beerology....


----------



## ride the biscuit (Jun 4, 2009)

scrublover said:


> 1. Depends on your definition of AM or FR I guess. My local areas have lots and lots of drops in the 2-4" range, lots of steep rolls, tight and twisty trialsy stuff, lots of wheelie drop opportunities. Quick transitions between short and steep descents and climbs. Our descents are short, but very chunky with lots of play options.


Oh yea, I just call it East Coast tech! Thanks, that really helped get up to speed.

Got a ton of life left on a regular spiderless 28t ring from HBC, so I think I'll just put up with my rather heavy lower roller until I replace with N/W ring. Then I'll just drop the lower pulley, since it mounts separate from upper guide.

Is your 28t front on your HT? I think I must have used similar rationale that for riding XC in these type conditions, gravity takes over well before you really need harder ratios and you can get so much more speed from pumping than mashing pedals.


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## Dr_Ryan (Apr 20, 2009)

*My 1x10 conversion parts*

This is what came Yesterday. Some new bling for my 29er a 30 tooth Raceface Wide/Narrow ring, a KMC X10SL Titanium/Black World Tour Limited Edition 10 Speed Chain, and conversion tabs. I cannot wait to do the install this weekend.


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## Crash Gordon (Jul 2, 2013)

I just installed a 30t Race Face ring today. I'm running a Shimano clutch RD with a 1x10 cassette. That ring really grips that chain! The stuff I ride doesn't have a lot of drops but there are some pretty rocky, root infested sections. I suspect it won't be an issue with this ring but I'll find out for sure this weekend.


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## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

Been running 32t for over 1 mth, 1 drop chain due to a small stick hit the crank, and messed up my shifting too.
the RF is working fine. I run it with non clutch xt rd. Bike is full suspension, no chainguide. I do little drop and jump. 

However, my friend keep dropping his chain with RF 32t, because he rides more aggressively, more jumps, bigger drops, and faster too. So he got wolftooth instead, been working fine so far.


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## sherpaxc (Aug 12, 2005)

I've got an x9 9 speed non type 2. Running a 30th on the front in Austin on some very tech trails. Dropped it twice. Both times on a step up, slight back pedal to set my pedal stroke with a quick forward pedal and it dropped. Hit my knee both times. Total bummer. I could have just saved $30 and used my regular Paul Chainkeeper and been fine. Oh well.


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## Crash Gordon (Jul 2, 2013)

Well, I rode about 12 miles today. It was nothing too techy but I did have some pretty fast downhill with rocks and roots and not even a hit of dropping a chain or chain slap for that matter. It's a little noisy running in the first and second gear but that's due to the chain line. I could stand for it to sit just a little more inboard. Once I'm in third gear or higher is quietens down. All in all I'm really liking the Race Face ring, I think it's a keeper.


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## natoz (Oct 10, 2010)

Hi guys,

I had decided to try out RF Narrow/Wide Chainring, had read all 6 pages of this thread, however still got some noob questions:

1. Purchasing the 32T, will this single chainring bolt be ok? 
E Thirteen Single Ring Bolt Set | Chain Reaction Cycles 
2. Will also purchase 11-34 XT M770 9 Speed Cassette for this new setup, do i need anything else, or a straight swap with the 11-32? 
3. I will be taking the parts to the LBS to install, is there anything else i need for this setup?

My Current setup, crack is Shimano SLX (3 cogs), 11-32 rear 9 speed (SLX), and decore XT longcage.

Thanks guys,


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## ZmyDust (May 13, 2011)

natoz said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I had decided to try out RF Narrow/Wide Chainring, had read all 6 pages of this thread, however still got some noob questions:
> 
> ...


That should be all you need. The bolts will work but in case they arejust a touch too long, the shop may need to flip the ring like I did on my post on page 5 or add washers to keep the Raceface Etchings facing out. Either is an easy fix.

Adding a larger cassette may require a longer chain if your chain now is already on the shorter side of the tolerance now, but maybe not.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

If you're going from a triple to a single your chain will not be too short. You will need to shorten it.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

natoz said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I had decided to try out RF Narrow/Wide Chainring, had read all 6 pages of this thread, however still got some noob questions:
> 
> ...


Chain will be plenty long enough to make the switch, but if it and cassette have seen better days, you should grab a new one along with the new 11/34 cassette. If it's relatively new have the shop check stretch if it's in the .2-.3mm range should be good to use at first then recheck after several rides and change as soon as it gets to end of recommended tolerances (.5mm? ask shop).


----------



## natoz (Oct 10, 2010)

JMac47 said:


> Chain will be plenty long enough to make the switch, but if it and cassette have seen better days, you should grab a new one along with the new 11/34 cassette. If it's relatively new have the shop check stretch if it's in the .2-.3mm range should be good to use at first then recheck after several rides and change as soon as it gets to end of recommended tolerances (.5mm? ask shop).


thanks for the advice, forgot to mention i will be buying a set of KMC x9 Light chain.

I bought this bike brand new in 2009, never touched the drivetrain, i figure its time to mod and upgrade (puts the fun back in mtb).

Thanks all for the help, going place my order.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

natoz said:


> thanks for the advice, forgot to mention i will be buying a set of KMC x9 Light chain.
> 
> I bought this bike brand new in 2009, never touched the drivetrain, i figure its time to mod and upgrade (puts the fun back in mtb).
> 
> Thanks all for the help, going place my order.


No prob just a little help micro managing of your setup. 

Curious I see a 9spd der so I take its not a clutch, are you planning to run a top chain guide or lower retension unit? Or roll the dice to see how the N/W ring works alone?

Post back up when its all together.


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

OK, this thread is really interesting...
I'm running dual chagrining+bash with Stinger on the front and thinking of going to a single on the front. Do I still have to use the Stinger when switching to Single chaining ? No clutch RD yet...

Thanks


----------



## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

TalMiz said:


> OK, this thread is really interesting...
> I'm running dual chagrining+bash with Stinger on the front and thinking of going to a single on the front. Do I still have to use the Stinger when switching to Single chaining ? No clutch RD yet...
> 
> Thanks


I've been running mine for a couple hundred miles and no issues with a non-clutch X9 derailleur.


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## Tarekith (Mar 9, 2005)

No, you can remove the stinger


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## mwoodrow (Aug 31, 2013)

Just to give a quick review of the narrow wide. I recently built up a new bike, 1x10 using a type 2 x9 and a raceface crank with standard 1x chainring. After the first two rides and only dropping a chain a couple times I thought I could live with it. Next outing on a different trail, one that was rough and technical, I dropped the chain 6 times and got fed up and went with a narrow wide. Rode yesterday on a very rooty rough trail and not a single drop. Needless to say, I am a believer!!!!


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## Strafer.2 (Aug 6, 2012)

dvn said:


> I've been running mine for a couple hundred miles and no issues with a non-clutch X9 derailleur.


Same here. I even bought a type 2, but have not installed it yet since the chain is not dropping.


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## CharlieDog (Apr 3, 2008)

Going to get a 32t to go on my Transam 29er to replace the 2x10 with a mid cage X7 rear der, 11-36 cassette. Anybody know if I need new bolts or if I can use the same bolts already on there? Crankset is a SRAM S1400 GXP 10speed 175 38/24. Thanks and if I do need new ones can you point me in the right direction?


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

CharlieDog said:


> Going to get a 32t to go on my Transam 29er to replace the 2x10 with a mid cage X7 rear der, 11-36 cassette. Anybody know if I need new bolts or if I can use the same bolts already on there? Crankset is a SRAM S1400 GXP 10speed 175 38/24. Thanks and if I do need new ones can you point me in the right direction?


You should just have to get "single speed" chain ring bolts. Unless you will be using a bash ring guard then use the same. You can start by checking Origin8, but pretty much any lbs or online store will have.


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## natoz (Oct 10, 2010)

Parts arrived today, going take it to LBS tomorrow, cant wait!!


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

This looking good...Where did you bought the red bolts ?


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## Jack Jack (Sep 7, 2011)

u would need a set of single chain bolt


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## goodoljake (Jul 31, 2011)

CharlieDog said:


> Going to get a 32t to go on my Transam 29er to replace the 2x10 with a mid cage X7 rear der, 11-36 cassette. Anybody know if I need new bolts or if I can use the same bolts already on there? Crankset is a SRAM S1400 GXP 10speed 175 38/24. Thanks and if I do need new ones can you point me in the right direction?


sorry for the late reply and I hate to contradict others, but you should be able to use the same bolts that are on the 38T ring with no issue. If you have washers or a bash guard that too will need to be reused though. Otherwise yes you will need a single ring bolt set. Hope that makes sense.


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## natoz (Oct 10, 2010)

Picked up the bike today from LBS, looks amazing, will wake up early tomorrow and head to local trail. cant wait!

On a funny sidenote, when i went to pick up my bike, the mechanic had left the FD on the bike, saying that if i dont leave it on, the chain will come off very easily. Explained to him what this chain-ring is all about, and i will take my chances... wish me luck!


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

Where did you bought the red bolts ?


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Another nine speed question:

I just got a new Yaro; it's a 9 speed 12-36, Deore Shadow (non clutch), and have a RR NW 32 on the way. 

I plan to pull off the chainguard, all in hopes that the chain won't drop and life will be good.

So, what things can I do on the cheap to prevent chain drop, IE derailleur set up, chain length, ghetto stuff. 

I want to avoid buying a 10sp clutch derailleur and 9sp SRAM shifer.

Is there going to be a 9sp clutch or is that all smoke?

Is there anyway to beef a 9sp up with a stiffer spring or a "block" that will serve as a clutch?


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

Nurse Ben said:


> Another nine speed question:
> 
> I just got a new Yaro; it's a 9 speed 12-36, Deore Shadow (non clutch), and have a RR NW 32 on the way.
> 
> ...


I bought a $50 Bionicon C Guide and it worked great to keep the chain on, but I broke it on the 3rd ride. After that, I made a DIY one out of an old reflector for $0 (had all the stuff laying around) and it has been bombproof for months when run with a RF narrow-wide 34t - no drops and I ride pretty hard.

How to make your own chain device - YouTube


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## Doba (Nov 29, 2008)

Got my 30T on the way from Art's Cyclery. 1x10 XT setup with a 11-34 cassette. Can't wait to ditch my noisy chain guide.


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## natoz (Oct 10, 2010)

Took the bike out today, around 15kms in the trails, no drops. very happy with it.



TalMiz said:


> Where did you bought the red bolts ?


HeyTalMiz,
those are E Thirteen Single ring bolt, they come in 6 different colours, nice blink on the bike.


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## CharlieDog (Apr 3, 2008)

Just got my 32t installed on my transam but haven't been able to ride yet. I'm coming from a 2x10, anyone know if I'll have to remove some links from my chain?


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

Just finished my new Tallboy build with a 30t N-W chainring up front and an 11-36t cassette in the rear, paired with an XT mid-cage clutch derailleur. Yesterday I did an 18 mile ride with over 3k of climbing (not sustained steep, but sections of 10% or more) and I never felt the need for more granny gears, and I didn't drop the chain once. The biggest thing was the complete and utter lack of chainslap.... I forgot to put a chainstay protector on, but the chain didn't hit it once the entire ride. I'm going to put a similar setup on my Blur LT this week with a 9-spd non-clutch rear derailleur (X9), so I'll report back with how that compares.


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## CharlieDog (Apr 3, 2008)

Hey smmokan that is a beautiful bike. I just put a 32t on my transam. Curious if you removed any links from your chain? Going out for my first ride with the new ring on tomorrow.


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

I did.... four full links from a new SRAM 1031 chain, IIRC.


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## Crash Gordon (Jul 2, 2013)

CharlieDog said:


> Just got my 32t installed on my transam but haven't been able to ride yet. I'm coming from a 2x10, anyone know if I'll have to remove some links from my chain?


It depends. What was the size of the largest ring you replaced? If the big ring on your 2x10 set-up was a 32 then you won't need to remove any. If it was larger than that then you need to size it accordingly. In order to do that you want to wrap the chain around the ring and the largest cog in the rear (without routing through the RD) plus two links.


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## dirtbyte (Aug 23, 2011)

Just finished my new build with a RaceFace NW 32T and ALL XT/Shadow Plus drive train. After 2 rides, all I can say is... WOW. Glad I did not spend the $$$ on XX1. Took it out on some technical trails and bombed the heck out of them. Barely any chain slap at all, probably 99% quiet and not even a hint of a dropped chain. With 1x10 and 32 ring with 11-36 cassette I have all the range of gears I will ever need. This is definitely the setup for me!

Here are some pictures of my build before the first ride, and one on my first ride 

Race Face ring mounted up nice to the XT crankset...








Love the clean look of single ring, no bash, and no front derailleur... Just hope I don't bash up the chain 








Lovin my first ride!


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## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

mtbdennis said:


> Just finished my new build with a RaceFace NW 32T and ALL XT/Shadow Plus drive train. After 2 rides, all I can say is... WOW. Glad I did not spend the $$$ on XX1. Took it out on some technical trails and bombed the heck out of them. Barely any chain slap at all, probably 99% quiet and not even a hint of a dropped chain. With 1x10 and 32 ring with 11-36 cassette I have all the range of gears I will ever need. This is definitely the setup for me!
> 
> Here are some pictures of my build before the first ride, and one on my first ride
> 
> ...


Nice clean setup - I like it - if you do find that you start getting some damage to your ring or chain from impact or if it starts dropping to the outside upon sudden stops, just pick up one of those RF 32t bash guards and some double chain ring bolts - that will take care of the problem and it mounts up nice on those XT cranks - I know b/c that is my setup.

Race Face


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## dirtbyte (Aug 23, 2011)

skyno said:


> Nice clean setup - I like it - if you do find that you start getting some damage to your ring or chain from impact or if it starts dropping to the outside upon sudden stops, just pick up one of those RF 32t bash guards and some double chain ring bolts - that will take care of the problem and it mounts up nice on those XT cranks - I know b/c that is my setup.
> 
> Race Face


Yeah, thanks... I have the double chainring bolts from what came with the crankset, and I also have a bashgard... Just wanted to keep it clean for now and see how it goes.


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

Is someone can advice how many grams he saved moving to single ring ?


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

TalMiz said:


> Is someone can advice how many grams he saved moving to single ring ?


If I remember right, it was right around a pound on my bike. That's losing a chainring, bolts, front derailleur, cable and shifter.


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## Doba (Nov 29, 2008)

Silly question but do the bolts screw right into the chainring on these rings? I've only ever used the 2 part bolts. I have single speed bolts.


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## Tarekith (Mar 9, 2005)

I'm not sure about the larger Narrow Wides, but on the 32 and 30T the bolts screw right into the chainring.


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

Doba said:


> Silly question but do the bolts screw right into the chainring on these rings? I've only ever used the 2 part bolts. I have single speed bolts.


Only on the 30T


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## Tarekith (Mar 9, 2005)

I have a 32 and the bolts definitely screw into that one.


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## Zaf (Mar 1, 2012)

Been running the 32t ring on both of my bikes and been pretty happy with them. Might need to give the Fuel EX a 34t though, as the gearing's just a little low with smaller wheels. I have dropped the chain on both bikes, the Fuel EX dropped it going through a rough rock section, which was surprising given the Shimano Zee clutch and small cage being so stiff.

I am contemplating hanging a chain guide off the chainstay guard just to reduce that slap that tiny bit more, as the bike does get thrown through some very rough stuff.


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## Doba (Nov 29, 2008)

dvn said:


> Only on the 30T


That's what I've got. Thanks.


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## dvn (Apr 6, 2011)

Tarekith said:


> I have a 32 and the bolts definitely screw into that one.


You are correct. I could have sworn that it was only the 30T but I just went out and looked at my bikes and both my 30 and 32T are threaded. My mistake.


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

Finally got mine to drop the chain. Super muddy conditions + pedaling hard + rock garden.

I am pretty pleased with it.


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## boo radley (Jun 26, 2013)

Just installed mine a couple days ago. It was a pretty simple operation even for someone who shouldn't be allowed near sharp objects.

I didn't have the FC-16 tool for the crank-arm cap, but a dime worked just fine. The only other issue I ran into was being shocked at how tight the factory chain-ring bolts were. I had to use a hollow tube over the hex wrench as a breaker bar.

I removed two links from the chain. Only one somewhat easy ride so far, but zero issues: shifts crisply, bike is lighter....I'm a bit concerned with potential chain drop because I'm using a Deore XT long-cage, but we'll see.


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## titusbro (Oct 15, 2004)

Hey all -

I just ordered the 30T and I will be mounting it on a Shimano XT FC-M780 Crankset. Do I need to install spacers for this crank type?

Thanks!


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## EbbeJ (Feb 26, 2013)

Am I understanding it correctly that the contributors having chain drop issues with the N/W conversion, are running 9-spd long cage RDs? 

I'm running 3x9 on an XC HT bike, and I'm mainly using the middle 32T ring, so I'm thinking about doing a conversion when it's time. My RD is an M770 long cage RD with an 11-34 casette, have any one had any issues with a setup like mine?


Kind regards,

Ebbe


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## Strafer.2 (Aug 6, 2012)

EbbeJ,
If you do get chain drops, mount a simple chain keeper like N'Gear Jump Stop or Bionicon C-Guide.


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## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

I have been running an 1x10 with a top guide with Shimano XTR clutch for two seasons now on my Mojo HD and when I saw the RF N/W option, I thought it would be just want I wanted.

But after hearing of some of you having drop issues, I am concerned. 

A question then for those of you who have had this happen a number of times: Were your your chainlinks lined up properly to the Narrow and wide teeth on the chainring? 
If not, I could see how a chain might not sit in the grooves properly and have the possibility of bouncing off?

If they were, then I am disappointed that this means I would still have to run a top guide.

Thanks


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## Zaf (Mar 1, 2012)

Gunnar-man said:


> I have been running an 1x10 with a top guide with Shimano XTR clutch for two seasons now on my Mojo HD and when I saw the RF N/W option, I thought it would be just want I wanted.
> 
> But after hearing of some of you having drop issues, I am concerned.
> 
> ...


The chain only fits on one way, the wide teeth won't fit between the narrow links, just rests atop of them. I went and tightened up the clutch on my derailleur and I've not had a problem since with dropping the chain. I've only had drops on my full suspension bike, the hardtail hasn't done it once since moving to the clutch rear derailleur, and I still hit very similar terrain. It might be a combination of hitting technical sections less aggressively, or simply that the movement of the rear wheel is assisting in building a standing wave on the chain that is able to throw it off.

The Fuel EX chainstay protector does have a slot available for a Cguide style chain device to be mounted on it, which might be my next most cost effective solution to the problem.


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## jimithng23 (Feb 11, 2009)

30t on each of my bikes -- fattie and FS trail bike. 

nearly 150 miles on them total since mounting the 30t -- no dropped chains. 

fattie is 1x10 with a SRAM X9 type 2 on a Shimano XT 11-36 
FS is 1x11

very happy with both setups.


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## Strafer.2 (Aug 6, 2012)

I get some chain skip (bounce?) but never dropped.
This is with non-clutch X9 short cage. I have type2 XO but saving it until X9 wears out or breaks since I'm not having issues with it.


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## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

I hv run 32t for over 3 mths, with non clutch xt rd, long cage, 1x10, fs bike. I have dropped 5 times. Three in the last 2 weeks. Kinda suckss. 

Maybe mine is a bit worn out. Idk if clutch would help a lot, maybe I will try to shorten the chain 2 links and see what happen.


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## jimithng23 (Feb 11, 2009)

inter said:


> I hv run 32t for over 3 mths, with non clutch xt rd, long cage, 1x10, fs bike. I have dropped 5 times. Three in the last 2 weeks. Kinda suckss.


why would you run a long cage RD with a 32t ring in a 1x setup? you're likely dropping the chain due to too much slack from the chain length required to properly fit this setup.

not trying to be snarky, but I'm quite certain you could avoid chain drops by switching to a medium-cage at worst; short-cage at best (aside from going to a clutch-type RD) as that's been my experience.


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## Appalachian (Apr 12, 2006)

Here is mine. 30t 1x10 xt shadow plus.


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## jimithng23 (Feb 11, 2009)

coupl'a shots of my setup:



















just realized I don't have any shots of my fat bike setup....


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

To update my previous post.... I finally got the N/W setup on my Blur LT. I have it as a 1x9 with the 30t up front and a 11-34 9-spd cassette in the rear, along with my SRAM X-9 non-clutch long cage rear derailleur. Yesterday I rode about 9 miles and 1200 vertical of very technical, rocky terrain (if anyone's in the CO Front Range, I did a few laps in the rock garden at Hall Ranch) and not a single dropped chain. In fact, I was making a point to pay attention to chain slap- as it's something I was having major issues with prior- and I didn't hear it once. I'm sold.


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## cokratex (Jul 28, 2012)

jimithng23 said:


> coupl'a shots of my setup:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What bash is that?

I was looking for something like that but have not found any, so I made one myself. It is so much easier to keep it clean compared to my bashring I had earlier.


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## jimithng23 (Feb 11, 2009)

cokratex said:


> What bash is that?
> 
> I was looking for something like that but have not found any, so I made one myself. It is so much easier to keep it clean compared to my bashring I had earlier.


MRP's skid w/carbon backplate.

Had to use the dremel to remove some material to keep the chain from rubbing. Otherwise all has been as advertised.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

jimithng23 said:


> why would you run a long cage RD with a 32t ring in a 1x setup? you're likely dropping the chain due to too much slack from the chain length required to properly fit this setup.
> 
> not trying to be snarky, but I'm quite certain you could avoid chain drops by switching to a medium-cage at worst; short-cage at best (aside from going to a clutch-type RD) as that's been my experience.


I'm betting he's running it because it's what came with/was on the bike before swapping the 1x setup on there...

Yeah, run the chain as short as your suspension design will let you. When your current rear mech dies, or you have the $$$ to do so...spring for a short cage clutched variety.


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## GT5050 (Jan 23, 2008)

Hi guys - I have a Giant Anthem 29er and am going to be putting a RaceFace Narrow/Wide 34t chainring. My question is am I going to be okay with a Shimano XT Shadow Plus Rear Derailleur if it's a long cage? Shadow Plus does have a clutch, just wanna make sure I'm gonna be fine...


----------



## jimithng23 (Feb 11, 2009)

GT5050 said:


> Hi guys - I have a Giant Anthem 29er and am going to be putting a RaceFace Narrow/Wide 34t chainring. My question is am I going to be okay with a Shimano XT Shadow Plus Rear Derailleur if it's a long cage? Shadow Plus does have a clutch, just wanna make sure I'm gonna be fine...


Yep, you'll be just fine.

Run the long cage until it either breaks or you're just dying to replace it with a medium cage.

I've seen smokin deals on the XT Shadow+ online lately.


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## jimithng23 (Feb 11, 2009)

scrublover said:


> I'm betting he's running it because it's what came with/was on the bike before swapping the 1x setup on there...


Kinda what I was figurin...run whatcha brought!


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## GT5050 (Jan 23, 2008)

jimithng23 said:


> Yep, you'll be just fine.
> 
> Run the long cage until it either breaks or you're just dying to replace it with a medium cage.
> 
> I've seen smokin deals on the XT Shadow+ online lately.


I should add that I may switch back to 2x for periodic mountain trips. Would a medium cage be okay for that or does that perhaps make a better case for staying long cage. And on that note, can one buy just the 'cage'??


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## jimithng23 (Feb 11, 2009)

Medium cage will work with a 2x setup as well, but there will be a max on the size of your big ring...check Shimanos website for the spec. I ran a SRAM med cage on a 42t big ring 2x setup just fine. 

I'm not 100% certain but I don't think cages can be swapped between RD's. If they can, it's news to me.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Do I need any special tools to replace the two rings I have up front with one of these? I have a 2x10 Shimano XT (M785) setup.

Crank work/chainring replacement is probably the only maintenance item I haven't done yet.


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## GT5050 (Jan 23, 2008)

You shouldn't need anything except a torque wrench. On the non-drive side there's a star pattern plastic bolt cap. This threw me off but it is not torqued too tight and you can use a dime to remove and install it, perhaps you need pliers on the dime for leverage. Then of the two Allen bolts only the one closest to the bb needs to be completely removed.

The one thing that I hate are the slotted bolts on the back of the big chainring, and you'd have to use them for your new single chainring. Instead of that pain I highly recommend the wolf tooth bolts that are Allen on both sides, plus they come on a variety of colors...
http://www.wolftoothcycling.com/products/set-of-4-chainring-bolts-nuts-for-1x


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

GT5050 said:


> You shouldn't need anything except a torque wrench. On the non-drive side there's a star pattern plastic bolt cap. This threw me off but it is not torqued too tight and you can use a dime to remove and install it, perhaps you need pliers on the dime for leverage. Then of the two Allen bolts only the one closest to the bb needs to be completely removed.
> 
> The one thing that I hate are the slotted bolts on the back of the big chainring, and you'd have to use them for your new single chainring. Instead of that pain I highly recommend the wolf tooth bolts that are Allen on both sides, plus they come on a variety of colors...
> Set of 4 Chainring Bolts+Nuts for 1X | wolftoothcomponents.com


Great, thanks. Glad I don't have to buy another $50 one time use tool or pay to have someone else do it!

What makes the slotted bolts difficult? I've spent way too much money on bike stuff this year so if I can get away with not buying more I'll pass if I can


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## GT5050 (Jan 23, 2008)

I've gone 1x and back several times. Slotted bolts are fine but I was just happy to find the dual Allen bolts, made things easier


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## TwoWheelMan (Jan 5, 2009)

Alias530 said:


> What makes the slotted bolts difficult? I've spent way too much money on bike stuff this year so if I can get away with not buying more I'll pass if I can


The slotted chainring nuts are a bit of a pain if you don't have the appropriate wrench. Fortunately, they're only about $5. Park, Topeak, and probably others make 'em.


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

Guys, do you know if I will need Tab Shims for the 30T version chainring ?
Are those Tab Shims are included with the chainring ?

Thanks


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## offroadwarrior (Sep 4, 2013)

Don't know if you guys have heard, but Canfield Brothers have created a micro hub that has a 9 and 10 tooth cog, giving you a better range for 9 or 10 speed drivetrains. And a company called OneUp Components is selling an aftermarket 42 tooth cog, giving you an even greater range (for a ten speed that is). 

With those two components you could see a 9-42 tooth cassette, I'd take that over an XX1 any day. especially since it wont cost anywhere near what an XX1 does.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

offroadwarrior said:


> With those two components you could see a 9-42 tooth cassette, I'd take that over an XX1 any day. especially since it wont cost anywhere near what an XX1 does.


The canfield 9t is $240 and the oneup is $85, so you're looking at $325 plus the cost of having the required hub built up (canfield hub), also the canfield replaces the bottom 4 of a shimano cassette. . .


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## offroadwarrior (Sep 4, 2013)

unrooted said:


> The canfield 9t is $240 and the oneup is $85, so you're looking at $325 plus the cost of having the required hub built up (canfield hub), also the canfield replaces the bottom 4 of a shimano cassette. . .


Yeah, its a little pricey, but if you're looking for a wider range than the stand 11-36, it's a hell of a lot cheaper than XX1 or X01.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

What do you guys do with the now-vacant front derailleur mount?

Are some chain guides mounted there? Do you just ignore it? It's borderline hazardously sharp with nothing there (at least on my Superfly frame) and I feel like I could really eff my leg up on it.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

"Guys, do you know if I will need Tab Shims for the 30T version chainring ?
Are those Tab Shims are included with the chainring ?"

I just put an RF 30t on my wife's Taro, the chain clears the crank spider fine, but that may not be the case with all cranks. If it doesn't clear, the chain could walk off the ring in certain gears. Options like grinding the spider would work, but the shims are cheaper.


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## GT5050 (Jan 23, 2008)

Well I've run my Raceface narrow wide with a Shimano XT Shadow+ rd a few times now and it's perfect! Very impressed. I was initially concerned that my long cafe derailleur would be an issue, but no problems at all...


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Is anyone using this successfully with no chain guide or clutch rear derailleur?

I just put my ring on with no fuss, shims, spacers, etc... haven't ridden though. If riding without one of the above is out of the question I'll just order one now instead of having a crappy first ride


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## hey_poolboy (Jul 16, 2012)

How do you shift w/o a rear derailleur? 
In all seriousness, I don't know why it would be less reliable on a ss. 


Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

hey_poolboy said:


> How do you shift w/o a rear derailleur?
> In all seriousness, I don't know why it would be less reliable on a ss.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


Clutch rear derailleur* 

1x10 setup


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## Strafer.2 (Aug 6, 2012)

I ran without clutch but short cage rear for a while, no problem.


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

I installed a 32T NW ring this weekend on my RF SixC triple (1x9). I went on a XC ride and dropped my chain on the first short descent. I'm hoping it was a fluke. It was good after that, but I wasn't going over rough terrain or jumping that much (UCSC and Wilder).


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## GT5050 (Jan 23, 2008)

Do you have a clutch derailleur?


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

> Is anyone using this successfully with no chain guide or clutch rear derailleur?


I am running an RF 32 NW on a non clutch Kona Honzo and a RF 30 NW on a non clutch Taro, so far not a single drop, and I'm not a pansy, riding at speed through roots and rocks, jumps and it's all good!

I do run a short chain on both, one link from min on the biggest cog, but I ran a full length chain on the Honzo until this weekend when I installed a new chain and I still didn't have any drops.

If you run a clutch you can get away with running a longer chain, but why bother?

I have long cages on both bike, not sure how it would matter either way, perhaps a long cage is better for stabilizing the chain??

I removed the chain guides on both bikes, and good riddance!

If you're getting drops, see if you can figure out which gear you're running when the chain drops and what you were doing (coasting, pedaling or shifting).

I would guess it's coasting in the smaller cogs which will mean a more slack chain. If so, try adding a simple hook to the seat tube above the chainring to keep the chain from jumping up and run a shorter chain.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

My chain drops after coasting in the small cog, my chain is as short as possible, but no clutch. I would add a spacer to my bb, but I have a 72mm shell.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Well that's the problem, just stop coasting so much 

or shift it to a larger cog.

You could try adding a hook, and if that fails, get a clutch.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

It falls to the outside. . . What's a hook?


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

Alias530 said:


> Is anyone using this successfully with no chain guide or clutch rear derailleur?


Yes, I have a 30t N/W chainring with a long-cage non-clutch X9 rear derailleur, no guide or tensioner. On the first ride I dropped the chain once but that was because it got super muddy. Since then, I haven't dropped it once and I've been riding some pretty technical, rocky terrain (Front Range of Colorado). Just make sure your chain is as tight as it can be and you should be just fine.


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## r1Gel (Jan 14, 2004)

Alias530 said:


> Is anyone using this successfully with no chain guide or clutch rear derailleur?


Recently converted from SS to 1x10. I'm running a 32-t RF NW with a 11-36t SLX cassette and Zee RD, on an *aluminum rigid bike* (carbon fork). Went on my first trail ride last weekend, a freshly laid out trail center in the metro. Since the tracks were new, they weren't packed down yet and it was one of the bumpiest rides I've ever been on. Never lost the chain :thumbsup:


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

I'm a little confused about the slotted chainring nuts. I just ordered everything for my 1x10 conversion but wont be getting it installed until after christmas. I have the 30tooth nw ring and I ordered chainring bolts from jenson with it. I think they are 10mm and came with the slotted nuts. 

Do I need them? The chainring is threaded so I dont see how I would even use them


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

Nope, you don't need them. The bolts screw directly into the 30t chain ring.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

Thanks


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

When I converted from 2x10 I used the bolts from my granny gear... The threaded part of the two piece bolts for the big ring weren't long enough


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## Jonesxt (Aug 11, 2013)

*Narrow wide*

My Race face narrow wide should arrive tomorrow, I will be using it with a Shimano zee rd, will I need single ring bolts or can I use my old ones from my 3x9 setup.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Jonesxt said:


> My Race face narrow wide should arrive tomorrow, I will be using it with a Shimano zee rd, will I need single ring bolts or can I use my old ones from my 3x9 setup.


You should be able to use your old ones.

The single speed specific ones my shitty LBS told me I would need are getting returned.

See my post above yours for more info. Some of your bolts probably won't work but you should have at least 4 that will.


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## Jonesxt (Aug 11, 2013)

Alias530 said:


> You should be able to use your old ones.
> 
> The single speed specific ones my shitty LBS told me I would need are getting returned.
> 
> See my post above yours for more info. Some of your bolts probably won't work but you should have at least 4 that will.


That's ok thanks I'll try it soon as possible, well as soon as it arrives.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

You can only use your old ones of you're running a 30t. 

If you are running the bigger sizes you will need the single chainring bolts or put a washer behind each chainring bolt to take up space.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Are reg double ring bolts long enuff for the 30t? I thought they needed to be ~10mm to work with the length of the internal threads on ring.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

JMac47 said:


> Are reg double ring bolts long enuff for the 30t? I thought they needed to be ~10mm to work with the length of the internal threads on ring.


What cranks?

I have Shimano XT and was able to use the bolts from my granny gear. The large chain ring has the double bolts, of which the threaded portion is not long enough to grab more than 1-2 threads of the RaceFace chain ring. Even the longer granny bolts only grab 80% of the threads, but I'm sure this is enough to hold it securely.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

I tested mine today for the first time and it worked great.

Drivetrain noise is at least 50% higher than before but it worked great and no dropped chains (although this was a CX trail so I'd hope not). I'm guessing the extra noise is because the teeth are wider and maybe rub more than on a normal chain ring?


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

I went out again on a faster more typical ride at UCSC and dropped my chain twice. Both times were going through chop (roots and braking bumps). I was mostly off my brakes and turning. I did a couple descents and didn't have any problems with jumps. I was taking it a little easier and soft pedaling since I didn't want to get to a feature and find out I lost my chain.

I think I'm going to install a Bionicon chain guide and see if it works better.

BTW, I'm using a 971/2? Shimano XTR non-clutch rear derailleur.


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## Crash Gordon (Jul 2, 2013)

A clutch derailleur will solve your issues.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

You guys dropping chains--are you on a long cage (I.e. Coming from a 3x setup)?

I came from a 2x setup (medium cage) and haven't dropped any chains on some pretty gnarly AM terrain and I'm on a CX bike. No guide or clutch.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Yep, as others have noted, you don't have to have a clutch rear, but running the shortest cage your gearing choices and suspension design (if not a hardtail) will make a big difference. 

And obviously, the shortest cage clutch rear you can run will give the best results. Even better results by running some sort of upper guide as well. As we've all seen, these rings aren't immune to drops. Rare, way harder to do than with a regular ring, but not impossible. 

MarkyMass, I'd sink the money into a clutch rear vs. a C-guide. Keep your old one as a backup/spare. 

I've got three bikes with short cage clutch mechs, narrow/wide rings, and upper guide bits - no chain drops on any, with lots of hard riding. The upper guide adds minimal weight, but if it keeps my chain on, is worth it. Plus, I have less worry about it dropping down the road, as my ring and chain get a bit worn.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

scrublover said:


> Yep, as others have noted, you don't have to have a clutch rear, but running the shortest cage your gearing choices and suspension design (if not a hardtail) will make a big difference.
> 
> And obviously, the shortest cage clutch rear you can run will give the best results. Even better results by running some sort of upper guide as well. As we've all seen, these rings aren't immune to drops. Rare, way harder to do than with a regular ring, but not impossible.
> 
> ...


All due respect sl, and I've see your rough and tumble terrain and stunts, I understand the use of short(est) rr der/chain length and all, but why have the nw type ring "and" a top guide? Seems like one could get by without a special ring with that setup, no? I've done ok with a long cage der on my 1x9 ht/fs, granted not typically on the stuff you encounter back East. Probably switching to a short on the ht when replacement time comes. Serious on your thoughts.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Video: Enduro World Series with SRAM ? Part 1 and 2 | Mountain Bike Review

All of the pros are riding with a chain guide. . .


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

unrooted said:


> Video: Enduro World Series with SRAM ? Part 1 and 2 | Mountain Bike Review
> 
> All of the pros are riding with a chain guide. . .


Most of us aren't pros 

Everything the pros do should be taken with a grain of salt when duplicating it IMO.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

i've had my n/w for a few months and I've dropped my chain several times, if 50g of plastic could ensure my chain would stay put it would be worth the $30.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

JMac47 said:


> All due respect sl, and I've see your rough and tumble terrain and stunts, I understand the use of short(est) rr der/chain length and all, but why have the nw type ring "and" a top guide? Seems like one could get by without a special ring with that setup, no? I've done ok with a long cage der on my 1x9 ht/fs, granted not typically on the stuff you encounter back East. Probably switching to a short on the ht when replacement time comes. Serious on your thoughts.


Because I've had a chain come of at bad times in the past.

A few grams of protection means a lot. If it means I get to keep riding without a derailment, I'm happy. Minimal weight, no added drag to the system.

As said, and I'm sure you've seen poking about the web - these rings ARE NOT 100% drop proof. And, as said, what happens once the ring and chain have worn a bit and are not as tight a fit? I foresee drops happening - I'm predicting a couple more months of riding on some of htese rings, and we'll start seeing reports online of people *****ing about how their N/W ring dropped the chain... Sure, it'll still be way better than a regular ring/no guide, but still... These new style rings are great, but they are not a complete cure for dropping a chain.

Same idea as having the bash protection - it protects the rather expensive alu chainring. I've bent and mangled rings in the past, and had it end a ride. I'd just as soon not have to stop riding. I've bent and broken bash bits in the past, but was able to keep riding, because it kept the chain and ring intact.

Just my experience. I know others have had similar, and others have not. Ride and run what works for you is all.


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## HoJo (Jan 26, 2004)

I've been using a Raceface and a Wolftooth N/W for a few months with a non-clutch rear der. To mitigate drops I kept on a Bionic chain guide Bionicon USA C-Guide Chainguide for $50 that I had been using for the last year. It works very well but one questions the $ value for a plastic tube and a hanger. So on my next bike project I tried the DIY solution using an old reflector mount. DIY Bicycle Chain Tensioner. 
Mine version is slightly modified, instead or using hose I used electrical shrink wrap tubing and heated it when on the reflector mount. For the cost of the shrink wrap and 20 min work you have a more robust version than the bionic but it's a little noisier.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

scrublover said:


> Because I've had a chain come of at bad times in the past.
> 
> A few grams of protection means a lot. If it means I get to keep riding without a derailment, I'm happy. Minimal weight, no added drag to the system.
> 
> ...


Hey thanks for breakdown. Sorry if I came across "questioning" your setup. I should have been a little more clear on my setup: No clutch der's or n/w rings and top seat tube mount e13 xcx and similar light duty Paul chain guide on my xc rig, and a C-Guide on trail bike. Not riding in continually chunky chatter as you. 

I guess the trade off with having a nw type ring is in lieu of a having to use a lower retention guide? But you also run bashring/guards on your setups too, right?

I am in the middle of a budget xx1 build(ok 1x9.5 SRAMano drivetrain.....) with Shadow+ and the above mentioned e13 top guide but not purchased a n/w ring as of yet.


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## zarr (Feb 14, 2008)

tagged


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## ride the biscuit (Jun 4, 2009)

JMac47 said:


> I guess the trade off with having a nw type ring is in lieu of a having to use a lower retention guide? But you also run bashring/guards on your setups too, right?
> 
> I am in the middle of a budget xx1 build(ok 1x9.5 SRAMano drivetrain.....) with Shadow+ and the above mentioned e13 top guide but not purchased a n/w ring as of yet.


Pretty much, but that is still a pretty large benefit if youre already running a clutch der and the only cash outlay is a little bit more expensive ring. The roller on my gamut guide is a royal pain since the bearings freeze easily in grimey riding conditions and comprise a good bit of the guide's weight. So when I need a new chainring ill go N/W and simply dremel away the lower roller part and use slightly shorter chain, saving wt, reducing drag and keeping bash/retention. (assuming there are no odd spacing issues with 32t N/W ring and gamut bash)

I've always been dubious when people talk about feeling the impact of small amounts of drag, but its still lame when those lower roller bearings freeze.

Now on my trail setup, I only have the N/W, clutch der, and upper MRP st-mounted guide, and that has proven to be a lovely setup. No bash protection but when I do bash on that bike the impacts are not as heavy as on the AM/FR bike, naturally.

Note that the chain itself does protect the ring. I know this idea is like finger nails on chalkboard to drivetrain connoisseurs, but I've had a few run-ins on that setup with no apparent damage...as long as you dont expect major impacts and OK with small amount of risk you can do without.


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

I have 2, 30T N/W rings in green - has anyone tried to remove the anodizing on these rings? I was unable to find a black one, and couldn't pass up a second green ring for 25 bucks. What I would like to do is take the second ring and strip the anodizing off, and stain it black with some Rit dye in boiling water - I just don't want to fark it up with inexperience.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

s0ul_chicken said:


> I have 2, 30T N/W rings in green - has anyone tried to remove the anodizing on these rings? I was unable to find a black one, and couldn't pass up a second green ring for 25 bucks. What I would like to do is take the second ring and strip the anodizing off, and stain it black with some Rit dye in boiling water - I just don't want to fark it up with inexperience.
> 
> View attachment 855592


Annodizing is much more than a dye. . . Don't f#ck your ring up. I have a black 30t I would be willing to trade you if you pay for shipping on both. . .


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

JMac47 said:


> Hey thanks for breakdown. Sorry if I came across "questioning" your setup. I should have been a little more clear on my setup: No clutch der's or n/w rings and top seat tube mount e13 xcx and similar light duty Paul chain guide on my xc rig, and a C-Guide on trail bike. Not riding in continually chunky chatter as you.
> 
> I guess the trade off with having a nw type ring is in lieu of a having to use a lower retention guide? But you also run bashring/guards on your setups too, right?
> 
> I am in the middle of a budget xx1 build(ok 1x9.5 SRAMano drivetrain.....) with Shadow+ and the above mentioned e13 top guide but not purchased a n/w ring as of yet.


No worries. Don't get me wrong, the riding isn't that chunky/crazy, I just like not having to worry about derailment/killing a ring. Both have happened at not optimal times for me.  Trying to ride smoothly and with finesse works most times, but hey, hack moments happen.

MRP AM-Guides on two bikes - the two that see the ugliest of my riding. No lower guide. Bash and derailment protection in one package that is quiet, not crazy heavy, adds no drag, and has no rollers or anything to get gunked up. The bigger of the two is the bike that sees stupid hucking off rock moves and going to the lifts, so I really want the extra peace of mind there, and the other is my Blur TRc- a nice low BB ehight bike - the lower bash bit of the guide has taken some nasty hits that would have otherwise nailed the lower linkage.

My Chromag hardtail is upper guide only, with a 30t stainless ring - it's taken a few dings and has needed to be straightened mid-ride - I have a bash to fit it, and will likely put it back on, just to not have to worry about things. My fatbike has a 28t ring, upper guide only. It rarely gets kissed by a rock or log, but happens once in a while. The added clearance of its small size means it has pretty good clearance.

At this point, if wanting a single ring and building up new, I don't see why anyone wouldn't go N/W, whether they want to use a guide or bash or not. Using that stuff just all depends on where and how you ride, IMO.

I still believe we are going to see more reports of chain drop with these rings once people get more miles on them, particularly if people let the rings and chain get a bit long in the tooth and needing replacement. Man, I'd love to see some good steel versions! Sure, heavier, but they'd last a long time!


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

ride the biscuit said:


> So when I need a new chainring ill go N/W and simply dremel away the lower roller part and use slightly shorter chain, saving wt, reducing drag and keeping bash/retention. (assuming there are no odd spacing issues with 32t N/W ring and gamut bash)
> 
> Note that the chain itself does protect the ring. I know this idea is like finger nails on chalkboard to drivetrain connoisseurs, but I've had a few run-ins on that setup with no apparent damage...as long as you dont expect major impacts and OK with small amount of risk you can do without.


I'd bet a lot of other folks plan the same - it's what the guide on my Reign-X is - not a true AM-Guide, but a Micro with the roller section of the taco Dremeled off. Works great, and have a spare new taco if I ever want to go back to the roller. Has worked beautifully with the Wolftooth ring, even with a half dozen lift days.

Yeah, most times it does - but you can still smack things hard enough to screw up a chain or ring enough to screw up a ride. Thus my liking for the bash setup.

Potato, potahto.

At the end of the day, if we're out on our bikes and having fun, who cares what we're running, eh?


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

*Question is WT or RF......*



scrublover said:


> At this point, if wanting a single ring and building up new, I don't see why anyone wouldn't go N/W, whether they want to use a guide or bash or not. Using that stuff just all depends on where and how you ride, IMO.


A 30t n/w could be in the future on this, unless it sells soon.


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## mrbigisbudgood (Apr 4, 2011)

Bike - 2011 Santa Cruz Nickel (M)
Ring - 32t
Crank - Truvativ AKA
Cassette - SLX 11-36
Chain - Shimano XT
Rear mech - XT Shadow GS

I'm coming off a 24-36 2x10 setup. I DO still have my E13 bashring from my chainguide installed because the chainring bolts I have are super long. I need to get some shorter ones pronto. I chose the 32 for the following reasons 1) I never used my 24t here in Charlotte 2) When I do drop down into granny in the mountains, I have never used the top range of the cassette. I hope I have enough top end for the faster trails (Monbo loop if you are reading this from Charlotte) but I can report on that later.

Did the first ride last night with clutch switched "off" and experienced no chain drops. I started with a brand new chain and ended up removing 6 links. So far, I'm impressed. Tomorrow night will be a greater test of the system as we are riding a more bumpy trail. I will try it with the clutch "off" again, there is a particular section I'm thinking about that should really test it.


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

unrooted said:


> Annodizing is much more than a dye. . . Don't f#ck your ring up. I have a black 30t I would be willing to trade you if you pay for shipping on both. . .


Thanks for the offer, but I will pass as I found someone locally looking for a green ring to trade for a black one.


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

I installed the Bionicon chain guide (+a few extra links on my chain) and it ran flawless. I was hitting good speed over the chop and didn't have any drops. It's only a single ride, but things are working well! :thumbsup:

(Yes, the chainstay has an integrated protector so the neoprene guard is a bit redundant.  )






Crash Gordon and scrublover--

Thanks for the advice and feedback. I have a 9 speed drive-train and already had the Bionicon chain guide so it was easier for me to try it.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

I found an M786 XT clutch derailleur new for $67 online so I got that instead of a chain guide that adds clutter. 

No issue dropping chains now but as the chain and chain ring wear I don't want to have issues down the line.


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## J.R.A. (Nov 21, 2012)

I bought a 30T a couple weeks ago to try it out to see if I liked the one/ten before I purchased a Wolftooth DM GXP ring for my SC Blur LTc with a Sram x9 non clutch derailluer and a chain with less than 50 miles on it and no droped chains in 4 rides. Then I switched to my Specialized Stumpy 29 with a XX rear derailleur and a worn Whippermann black chain and have 5 rides on it all with out a dropped chain. Lovin the one/ten setup. Waiting for the OneUp and the Wolftooth 42t cog to availble.


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## lawnbike (Jan 20, 2007)

rode my new 30t ring today. no drops. have new rear cassette and chain also. sram x9 rd.

very happy.


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## mrbigisbudgood (Apr 4, 2011)

Test #2 and #3 were both positive in the chain drop category. No chain drops with the clutch still switched to off.

I did, however, run out of gear on a flat section. Perhaps I need to work on my leg speed?


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## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

I just ordered the 30T for my XT Shadow Plus 11-36 setup. I figure as I get stronger and want to ride faster I can switch it to a 32T if I want.


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## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

RaceTripper said:


> I just ordered the 30T for my XT Shadow Plus 11-36 setup. I figure as I get stronger and want to ride faster I can switch it to a 32T if I want.


I have the Shimano XT M785 (2x10) crank and ordered the 30T. Will I need the shims and different chainring bolts or will the ones from the stock cranks work OK.


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

RaceTripper said:


> I have the Shimano XT M785 (2x10) crank and ordered the 30T. Will I need the shims and different chainring bolts or will the ones from the stock cranks work OK.


Your bolts from your small ring should work, but if you run a bash guard you may need longer (8-10mm) bolts. If you are already using a bash guard then those bolts should work.
The 30T has threads on it if you didn't already know.


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## Cale Maybin (Apr 10, 2011)

I rode mine for the first time the other day in the worst mud I ever rode in. Had to stop and clean mud out of chain stay and crank,but no drops. 9 speed long cage,no clutch,but 10 speed chain.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

blcman said:


> Your bolts from your small ring should work, but if you run a bash guard you may need longer (8-10mm) bolts. If you are already using a bash guard then those bolts should work.
> The 30T has threads on it if you didn't already know.


Thanks. I'm not using a bash guard so I should be good to go with my 26T bolts. I am aware the 30T is threaded.


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## natoz (Oct 10, 2010)

Bought myself CGuide v.02, looks great on the bike, and a peace of mind while out on the trails. (should i move it forward towards the chainring or its fine where it is now?)


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

natoz said:


> Bought myself CGuide v.02, looks great on the bike, and a peace of mind while out on the trails. (should i move it forward towards the chainring or its fine where it is now?)
> 
> View attachment 857701


Move it forward to at least the middle of the word Scott.
I'm curious what difference v.2 is over mine from 2 years age. Maybe metal instead of plastic on the swivel part?


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## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

natoz said:


> Bought myself CGuide v.02, looks great on the bike, and a peace of mind while out on the trails. (should i move it forward towards the chainring or its fine where it is now?)


Pardon my newbie ignorance, but what does a device like that buy me? (I will have a 1x10 RaceFace 30T/XT Shadow Plus 11-36 setup)


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## CuddlyToast (Oct 30, 2013)

RaceTripper said:


> Pardon my newbie ignorance, but what does a device like that buy me? (I will have a 1x10 RaceFace 30T/XT Shadow Plus 11-36 setup)


Theoretically this will provide more chain wrap around the front chain ring, as well as preventing it from bouncing around as much. I understand why people would go for it, but i have ran a n/w single for a year, without any problems, or any other chain retention devices. I popped off chain, after a major crash, which was super easy to put back on. No derailleur would have held that sucker on


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## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

CuddlyToast said:


> Theoretically this will provide more chain wrap around the front chain ring, as well as preventing it from bouncing around as much. I understand why people would go for it, but i have ran a n/w single for a year, without any problems, or any other chain retention devices. I popped off chain, after a major crash, which was super easy to put back on. No derailleur would have held that sucker on


Thank you. That makes sense. I'll see how things go without adding one, but at least I know a possible solution if I have chain retention issues.


----------



## natoz (Oct 10, 2010)

Thanks for the tip blcman, moved. Not sure about the different between the hardware of v1 and v2, but with v2, it doesnt need to undo the chain to install it. 
Hey RaceTripper, i got it because i got a long cage, and the chain bounce too much when i am going down hill and when practicing my bunny hops. (note, my chain haven't came off yet, got it just to be safe)


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

natoz said:


> but with v2, it doesnt need to undo the chain to install it.


Thanks natoz. That is a nice feature.


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## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

natoz said:


> ...
> Hey RaceTripper, i got it because i got a long cage, and the chain bounce too much when i am going down hill and when practicing my bunny hops. (note, my chain haven't came off yet, got it just to be safe)


Thank natoz. I'm mostly doing beginner/intermediate singletracks with my wife, so I imagine I won't need something like this. But I like to learn about these things.


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## Chris_T (Feb 21, 2005)

wv_bob said:


> I may end up having to turn my ring around and do some filing on the crank ears to get chain clearance to make the ring work on my Nimble 9. After posting above I got a reply from Sean at Canfield to say the frame will flex enough to hit the teeth on the chainstay as it is.
> 
> With enough spacers to have clearance at the chainstay, the NDS arm fits like this, and I'm not sure if I should trust it. It'll end up like this even if I switch from BB spacers to spindle spacers.
> 
> ...


wv_bob - how's it going with your setup?

I have a 2011 Niner EMD9, 73mm BB, and have a similar situation. the 30t is too close to the chain stay and I am considering adding a spacer (1mm? 1.8? ) to help the situation.

How thick was your SS spacer?

Thanks,

Chris


----------



## Doba (Nov 29, 2008)

Been running the narrow wide for a month now. Not a single drop. 

Yeti ASR-7
30T ring
M785 XT cranks
XT shadow plus medium cage rear derailleur
XT 11-36 cassette
XT shifter

A lot of shuttle days down some serious rocky descents. The biggest thing I love about it is how quiet my bike is now. My old setup with the chainguide would make noise on the lower guide when I would climb and going down it would rattle on the upper guide. 

Best MTB purchase in a long time.


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## zink (Sep 14, 2011)

Running 34 x 11-36 with a triple crank, Shimano Zee and SLX cassette. It is working great in the snow and blasting over bumpy frozen footprints.



zink said:


> Installed a Shimano XT M780 triple with a 34 tooth Race Face Narrow-Wide ring. Chainring is bolted without spacers in the middle ring position with one bottom bracket drive side spacer giving a 50±1 mm chainline. There is 4 mm between the chainring and the chainstay and room for a 10 mm increase in chainring radius. A 38 tooth ring would fit with this chainline but it would be close.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Got my NW ring on today. Hopefully get to take it out Tuesday for a spin.

Dropped 11oz by removing the SLX shifter, cable, and XT front derailleur.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

RS VR6 said:


> Got my NW ring on today. Hopefully get to take it out Tuesday for a spin.


30t?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Yup 30T...


----------



## Chowder Head (Sep 26, 2010)

32T installed on my Fuel last night, already had a SRAM clutch derailleur, new chain, 19 miles on chunky single track, no drops and no noise. Lost over a pound. Loving it so far.


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## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

Mine got done a day early. This is very clean and simple. My LBS said they loved how well the RaceFace 30T integrates with my XT crankset. As a bonus I got a 3/4 lb. weight reduction with everything that came off the bike.

Quick spin around the neighborhood was very encouraging. I hope to get on the trail tomorrow.


----------



## CNEEL89 (Aug 15, 2009)

Another convert here, my first 1x set up and I must say I'm impressed. Went with the 30T for fear of not having a low enough climbing gear. The ratios actually fit my cadence better than the 2x setup as I don't find my self spinning until I'm winded. Took her on a 5 mile or so spin out here at Rockville, completed the loop faster than I ever have before and had zero issues with a dropped chain or slap with the X9 type 2. It's only one short ride, but so far I'm a definite believer!


----------



## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

Update: I'm dropping my chain about once every two rides on average. It's always when I'm going around a turn through chop. I've never dropped the chain after a jump or going straight through rough rooty sections. I haven't been holding back and have been hitting things at full-speed.

My chain is still probably isn't the shortest it could be and I added some more links when I added the Bionicon chainguide.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

XT Shadow Plus clutch derailleurs are $69 on amazon. I ordered one even though I have yet to drop a chain. As the drivetrain wears I figured it won't be as tightly fitting down the line so I figure it's cheap insurance.


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## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

RaceTripper said:


> Mine got done a day early. This is very clean and simple. My LBS said they loved how well the RaceFace 30T integrates with my XT crankset. As a bonus I got a 3/4 lb. weight reduction with everything that came off the bike.
> 
> Quick spin around the neighborhood was very encouraging. I hope to get on the trail tomorrow.


I went riding today and ended up picking up a bit of mud on my drivetrain. Everything held up very nicely. No dropped chains.


----------



## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

How's the durability with the Race Face rings especially the 30T?


----------



## googas7070 (Jan 2, 2014)

*N/W success*

I have been using a 32T with a new XT chain and a new SLX-M675 rear and a HG81 SLX 10 Speed Cassette with no chain slap or chain drop. Possible the key is success is to replace everything at once.


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## J.R.A. (Nov 21, 2012)

Planning on running one of the new OneUp 42 tooth cogs with my 30 tooth n/w, can I run a XO short cage without any problems or would a med cage be optimal?


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## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

J.R.A. said:


> Planning on running one of the new OneUp 42 tooth cogs with my 30 tooth n/w, can I run a XO short cage without any problems or would a med cage be optimal?


What gear do you plan to drop from your cassette if you add the 42? I was wondering about this, and ithought I might drop the 19 if I did this, leaving me 11-13-15-17-21-24-28-36-42. Some have suggested dropping the 17, but that seems like leaving a bigger gap of gear-inches by my calculation. On a 29er & 30T: 12.2 gear-inches delta with 15-19 versus 9.8 delta with 17-21.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

RaceTripper said:


> What gear do you plan to drop from your cassette if you add the 42? I was wondering about this, and ithought I might drop the 19 if I did this, leaving me 11-13-15-17-21-24-28-36-42. Some have suggested dropping the 17, but that seems like leaving a bigger gap of gear-inches by my calculation. On a 29er & 30T: 12.2 gear-inches delta with 15-19 versus 9.8 delta with 17-21.


How about ditch the 17 and replace the 15 with a 16 (from an ultegra road cassette or something)

Haven't done any calculations on percentage changes but it seems logical.


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## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

Alias530 said:


> How about ditch the 17 and replace the 15 with a 16 (from an ultegra road cassette or something)
> 
> Haven't done any calculations on percentage changes but it seems logical.


You know, that's not a bad idea.


----------



## ride the biscuit (Jun 4, 2009)

J.R.A. said:


> Planning on running one of the new OneUp 42 tooth cogs with my 30 tooth n/w, can I run a XO short cage without any problems or would a med cage be optimal?


I don't think any short cage der would provide enough throw for that setup


----------



## Strafer.2 (Aug 6, 2012)

J.R.A. said:


> Planning on running one of the new OneUp 42 tooth cogs with my 30 tooth n/w, can I run a XO short cage without any problems or would a med cage be optimal?


FYI, on-one.co.uk site has XO Type 2 med or long cage for $139, cheapest I found.


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## J.R.A. (Nov 21, 2012)

Taking the 17 out as instructed and swapping the 15 for 16. More of an even spread. 

So i should get a med cage?


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

J.R.A. said:


> Planning on running one of the new OneUp 42 tooth cogs with my 30 tooth n/w, can I run a XO short cage without any problems or would a med cage be optimal?


Short cage isn't recommended due to lack of capacity. I just received word from OneUp that_ it may_ work with HT's, but most definitely not with full squish. At this point I wouldn't try a short cage.


----------



## J.R.A. (Nov 21, 2012)

Thank you.


----------



## cokratex (Jul 28, 2012)

I have only tried the WT ring, and I'm happy with it. Most people in this forum seems happy with their RF rings as well, but in the picture the tooth on the RF ring looks very small next to the WT ring.

At least in theory bigger should be better, right?

Edit : The picture is from another forum.

http://happymtb.org/forum/read.php/1/2277250/page=3


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

cokratex said:


> I have only tried the WT ring, and I'm happy with it. Most people in this forum seems happy with their RF rings as well, but in the picture the tooth on the RF ring looks very small next to the WT ring.
> 
> At least in theory bigger should be better, right?


I'd prefer the WT one, but I haven't dropped a chain on an RF NW yet...


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## ride the biscuit (Jun 4, 2009)

cokratex said:


> I have only tried the WT ring, and I'm happy with it. Most people in this forum seems happy with their RF rings as well, but in the picture the tooth on the RF ring looks very small next to the WT ring.
> 
> At least in theory bigger should be better, right?
> 
> Edit : The picture is from another forum.


yes, that picture is compelling to me. So much so (and in combination with a very positive first experience) that I chose WT again for a second bike even though I just need 32t for 104 bcd this time.

I have had a WT direct mount (for sram gxp) 28t chainring on one bike for a few months now. I originally got it because they were the only one that did that spec, but I found the quality was high and the product was readily available right when I needed it for that build. I'll also note that it is not bash protected and is so far unscathed from a few minor strikes.

So in sum: great job WT!!! :thumbsup:


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Smaller teeth are lighter...


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

It's overkill, but I bought a MRP G3 chainguide to test.

The Bionicon seems to be working. I haven't dropped my chain once the last two times I've gone out (UC and Demo). Both rides were high-speed over rough terrain.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Just looks like two different designs on teeth profile. Probably to keep them from getting sued by each other...and SRAM.

I have the 30T on my 29er HT and Pivot Mach 5.

The chain hasn't dropped on the HT yet. Haven't ridden the Pivot...going to do a shuttle run next week...I'll see how it does there.


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## DavezFever (Mar 8, 2007)




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## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

DavezFever said:


> View attachment 861387
> 
> 
> View attachment 861388


What is that in the rear? A tensioner, basically? 
Sorry -- not very familiar with what looks like a single speed setup... do most SS people run that thing?


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## Strafer.2 (Aug 6, 2012)

DavezFever said:


> View attachment 861387
> 
> 
> View attachment 861388


Why do you use NW ring for single speed?


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## Strafer.2 (Aug 6, 2012)

addATX said:


> What is that in the rear? A tensioner, basically?
> Sorry -- not very familiar with what looks like a single speed setup... do most SS people run that thing?


The tensioner is for converting geared bike frame for SS use.


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## DavezFever (Mar 8, 2007)

addATX said:


> What is that in the rear? A tensioner, basically?
> Sorry -- not very familiar with what looks like a single speed setup... do most SS people run that thing?


Its a Paul Melvin chain tensioner. I'm using it with a 142x12 thru axle frame.



Strafer.2 said:


> Why do you use NW ring for single speed?


No reason really. Was building from scratch and needed a new chainring. Liked the idea of holding the chain better without a guide and wanted the option to convert back to 1x10 if I decide to.


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## kuuk (May 26, 2008)

First ride today after converting XT 2X10 to 1x10 using the RF narrow wide and a Zee clutch derailer. Set it up on my carbon hardtail and was surprised how quiet it ran, even crashed and no dropped chain


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I had to put a mrp 1X on my banshee prime, but I'm not using a clutch rd, yet. Still have to spend the money on a new cassette and shifter...


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

How important is it to install a new chain when installing the raceface narrow wide chainring?

I installed the 30T with an older chain and felt some binding and wasn't smooth.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> I installed the 30T with an older chain and felt some binding and wasn't smooth.


"Binding" as in a noise? Seems a lot of people running the RF rings experience a slight chain noise. Not sure it would be less/more with a new vs old chain.


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

The binding noise is when the chain and and chainring engages. Seems like the spacing isn't perfect which causes the rubbing noise.


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## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

I did not change out my chain when I added the 30T RaceFace. The bike (thus, the chain) has about 400 miles on it. The drive train is very quiet and smooth.


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

I think I realize the mistake I made and will fix it tomorrow. I mounted the chainring with the graphics facing the bottom bracket which means the chain will hit the crank arms and the built in spacer for the chainring does not prevent the chain from rubbing.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

My chain was slapping the chainstay on a 30mph descent on my HT...no dropped chain.


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## CNEEL89 (Aug 15, 2009)

My chain was loud initially, but after taking it off and soaking it for a couple hours in solvent, then dipping it in tri-flow and wiping the excess after 12 hours or so it's dead silent (more so than the 2x setup) for 3 rides now. Still no dropped chain and I've been trying!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Got around to installing the 30T on my Pivot.

Here is how the chain looks in the big cog. How many links should I remove? The RD looks like there is no tension...and the there is slack in the chain.


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

rs vr6:
When I installed my 30T I removed 2 links to start with. 
Due to weather I haven't had a chance to ride it yet.
If it doesn't work then I will remove 2 move. Good place to start.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Thats were I was thinking of starting. I just needed some validating. 

Thanks!


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## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

RS VR6 said:


> Got around to installing the 30T on my Pivot.
> 
> Here is how the chain looks in the big cog. How many links should I remove? The RD looks like there is no tension...and the there is slack in the chain.


Here's a how-to which includes re-sizing your chain
Trail Tech: How to convert to a 1x drivetrain - BikeRadar


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Those of you with extensive miles on your Narrow/Wide ring, how are they holding up. What's the lifespan on these compared to regular ss/1x rings?


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## Crash Gordon (Jul 2, 2013)

RS VR6 said:


> Got around to installing the 30T on my Pivot.
> 
> Here is how the chain looks in the big cog. How many links should I remove? The RD looks like there is no tension...and the there is slack in the chain.


Wrap the chain around the front ring and the biggest cog in the rear without routing through the RD. You want two to three more links than that. Then once you reroute it through the RD and connect you will have the proper chain tension. That is what I did and I don't even get any chain slap much less drops with a clutch RD.


----------



## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> Those of you with extensive miles on your Narrow/Wide ring, how are they holding up. What's the lifespan on these compared to regular ss/1x rings?


This probably isn't very helpful. I have about 145 miles on mine, but little of it is riding trails. Looks brand new still.


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

Close to 500 miles on mine, not a single issue, nor a dropped chain using a standard medium cage X7 derailleur. I removed two links from my chain as well, for proper tension. The only issues I see are those that do not have the correct length in their chain. 

I will be rotating out my chain once my 42T OneUp arrives, and after a few hundred more miles, a new 30T RF N/W for good measure. I should be able to get lots of life with two chains, and two chainrings, extending the life of the rear cassette.


----------



## shagster (Oct 30, 2012)

Mine started dropping regularly right at 1000 miles. The chain and ring were originally replaced together, so they both wore together. I only replaced the ring and that immediately resolved it. Visibly, the wear seems to be on the wider teeth. They appeared thin when compared to the new ring.


----------



## Borrest Gump (Feb 10, 2014)




----------



## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

Are you sure that chain device is set up right?


----------



## Borrest Gump (Feb 10, 2014)

What do you mean?


----------



## Borrest Gump (Feb 10, 2014)

If you mean the chain guide it does not have it at all  frame coms with a ISCG05 mount so you may see the yellow circle down near the BB


----------



## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

Svelte


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Borrest Gump said:


> If you mean the chain guide it does not have it at all  frame coms with a ISCG05 mount so you may see the yellow circle down near the BB


This is what an ISG-05 mount looks like:








What is showing up in the picture, and looks like a chain retention roller is the bottom link to your VPP. . .


----------



## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)




----------



## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

weird.


----------



## ripdogg1 (Aug 16, 2008)

I just installed a 34t NW and new chain on my Covert and experienced quite a few dropped chains on a test run. I fit a Stinger to stop it. It seems to drop on the bottom which surprised me because I have a clutch r. der. I replaced the roller mech on the clutch not too long ago but the tab that stops the limit screw is broken and the screw, itself, is bent all to hell. It takes some force to push the cage forward but I can do it with a little push. 

Has anybody else experienced any thing like this?


----------



## trmn8er (Jun 9, 2011)

I have a 2008 Stumpy S-Works with a 3X9 22-32-44 XT crank and 11-32 9 speed XTR cassette. Tomorrow morning I am converting this to 1X9 using the RF 30 ring. My cassette is fairly new as is the chain, so I will wait till they wear out and go to a 11-34 cassette if I need a little lower gear for climbing. Can't wait to ditch the FD, one shifter, and chain-rings. Any thoughts on if the reduced weight (especially rotating weight) of losing the two chain-rings and perhaps a couple chain links as well is something any of you have noticed when riding?


----------



## Scrappy jr. (Oct 24, 2013)

Anyone running the R/F N/W with the R/F bash gaurd? Could you post a pic please?


----------



## jimithng23 (Feb 11, 2009)

Scrappy jr. said:


> Anyone running the R/F N/W with the R/F bash gaurd? Could you post a pic please?


Yup.

Crappy iPhone pics shot quick this morning for ya:


----------



## jimithng23 (Feb 11, 2009)

I've been running the 30t w/bash since early last fall. It's been through all sorts of horrible conditions aboard the fattie and has performed flawlessly. 

Dropped the chain only once--got into a ton of mud and grass and all sorts of nasty stuff collected around the BB and into the chainring which caused the chain to drop.


----------



## Scrappy jr. (Oct 24, 2013)

Sweet! My bikes flat black with blue accent parts so I'm tryin to figure out to go with blue chainring, black bash and blue bolts or black chainring blue bash and black bolts! Or blue bash blue chainring and black bolts! Lol to many choices. Whatcha y'all think?


----------



## goodoljake (Jul 31, 2011)

Black ring, blue bolts, No bash (save your money). 

S4


----------



## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

goodoljake said:


> Black ring, blue bolts, No bash (save your money).
> 
> S4


+1

Looks way better without bash ring.


----------



## Scrappy jr. (Oct 24, 2013)

Theirs a lot of log, rock and concrete obstacles on my local trails! I'd rather spend the extra $ and hit the bash gaurd than the chainring.this place is hell on rims and chainrings!


----------



## dirtbyte (Aug 23, 2011)

goodoljake said:


> Black ring, blue bolts, No bash (save your money).
> 
> S4


++1 Before I went 1x10 I was running 2x9 with a bash. Now I am 1x10 (32T) and have not had any problems bashing it on rocks. Glad I skipped it, and yes it looks WAY cleaner / better.


----------



## jimithng23 (Feb 11, 2009)

Scrappy jr. said:


> Theirs a lot of log, rock and concrete obstacles on my local trails! I'd rather spend the extra $ and hit the bash gaurd than the chainring.this place is hell on rims and chainrings!


if where and how you ride demand a bash guard, then it's worth the money. to you.

I know my BG has saved my chain ring(s) on numerous occasions.


----------



## noosa2 (May 20, 2004)

jimithng23 said:


> if where and how you ride demand a bash guard, then it's worth the money. to you.
> 
> I know my BG has saved my chain ring(s) on numerous occasions.


I plan to get a 30t NW chainring but given all of the rocky step ups and general chunky trails around here I will need to run some kind of bashguard. Last time I rode without a bashguard A step up took several teeth off my 32t chainring... Anyone running a 30t NW on shimano cranks with an xt bashguard?


----------



## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

noosa2 said:


> Anyone running a 30t NW on shimano cranks with an xt bashguard?


I am. I just used the same bolts that held on the previous 32T ring and BG that needed the back fasteners. 
Any 8mm to 10mm bolt should be long enough to thread into the 30T ring.


----------



## Scrappy jr. (Oct 24, 2013)

Finally got my parts! Test rode tonight on my local trail and it is SWEET!!! No dropped chains! No chainslap! Shifts buttery smooth!! I love it!


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Scrappy jr. said:


> View attachment 878974
> View attachment 878976
> View attachment 878977
> Finally got my parts! Test rode tonight on my local trail and it is SWEET!!! No dropped chains! No chainslap! Shifts buttery smooth!! I love it!


Very nice. Not too much blue bling. Good choice on the bash too.


----------



## Scrappy jr. (Oct 24, 2013)

JMac47 said:


> Very nice. Not too much blue bling. Good choice on the bash too.


Thanks man! I think it looks as good as it rides! AWESOME!


----------



## 29erTim (May 14, 2012)

I have the Race Face Next SL 30t crankset on my single speed. It's nice and light, but, the "dry chain" sound is very loud. I'm using a Sram PC1091R chain. Has anyone found a solution to the chain noise issue? Should I be using a different chain? Thanks T.


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

29erTim said:


> Has anyone found a solution to the chain noise issue? Should I be using a different chain? Thanks T.


A regular flat ss ring would help.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

JMac47 said:


> A regular flat ss ring would help.


But would be pointless.


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

On an SS? Yuck yuck


----------



## Iboated (May 12, 2010)

I have a 2X crank and ordered the nw (32T) and a bash ring.. Is there anyway I can get these 2 to work together? I was thinking if I ordered the shim tabs and longer bolts I can use that as a spacer for the nw and bash ring..

Anyone else have a solution for this or I just might order the Hope integrated bash ring..


----------



## typedeaf (Apr 28, 2014)

I slapped a 32T RF NW on a Deore 3x crank. The RD is SLX, w/o a clutch. I removed two big links (4 total) from my chain. When I freewheel on the top/largest gear, the chain slips. This only happens on the largest chainring. Any ideas? I am thinking chain slack or rd high/low misalignment.

EDIT: I took out the spacer in my BB on the drive side. After looking at my chainring to cassette alignment, I see that it is pretty horribly off. The 32T needs to be where the small chainring would be on my crank for it to be properly aligned. Removing the spacer helped some, but not enough. I guess I am going to purchase a true single speed crank. Or, I could run 1x9 instead of 1x10. I suspect people running 1x9 will not experience this problem.


----------



## vincent66 (Mar 30, 2007)

*advice needed - Thanks in advance.*

Hello,

I'm about to switch from 2x9 m665 crank to 1x10 with a 30t NW.
Does anyone know if I will need any specific extra hardware (like tabs, screws ...).
I don't want to start mounting it and realize i'm missing something.

Also, what size of torx screwdriver do I need to unmount my slx rings ?

Thanks.


----------



## khomes7 (Mar 1, 2013)

I have the same problem as you with my 14 anthem 3. The stock SRAM crank is so misaligned that I cant use my granny gear due to the alignment. It just slips under torque. I plan on getting another 1X crank to solve the problem.



typedeaf said:


> I slapped a 32T RF NW on a Deore 3x crank. The RD is SLX, w/o a clutch. I removed two big links (4 total) from my chain. When I freewheel on the top/largest gear, the chain slips. This only happens on the largest chainring. Any ideas? I am thinking chain slack or rd high/low misalignment.
> 
> EDIT: I took out the spacer in my BB on the drive side. After looking at my chainring to cassette alignment, I see that it is pretty horribly off. The 32T needs to be where the small chainring would be on my crank for it to be properly aligned. Removing the spacer helped some, but not enough. I guess I am going to purchase a true single speed crank. Or, I could run 1x9 instead of 1x10. I suspect people running 1x9 will not experience this problem.


----------



## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

vincent66 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm about to switch from 2x9 m665 crank to 1x10 with a 30t NW.
> Does anyone know if I will need any specific extra hardware (like tabs, screws ...).
> ...


If you plan on keeping your bashguard you may need longer chain ring bolts (8mm-10mm) to make sure you have enough threaded into the 30T.
As far as the torx bit I believe it's a 27T. bigger than the rotor bolt one (25T).


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## vincent66 (Mar 30, 2007)

blcman said:


> If you plan on keeping your bashguard you may need longer chain ring bolts (8mm-10mm) to make sure you have enough threaded into the 30T.
> As far as the torx bit I believe it's a 27T. bigger than the rotor bolt one (25T).


Thank You.

And if I don't keep it ? Wil it be ok without anything else besides the ring ?

Thanks again.


----------



## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

vincent66 said:


> Thank You.
> 
> And if I don't keep it ? Wil it be ok without anything else besides the ring ?
> 
> Thanks again.


Your bolts should be long enough w/o the bash and should go right into the 30T.
As far as not using a bashguard and just having the ring, well that depends on the potential damage it could get.


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

*Which bolts do i need ?*

I found that the bolts of a Shimano triple are too long for the Race face ring. Which bolts should I buy ? Mean while I left the bash ring on my crank.

Thanks


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## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

TalMiz said:


> I found that the bolts of a Shimano triple are too long for the Race face ring. Which bolts should I buy ? Mean while I left the bash ring on my crank.
> 
> Thanks


I got the ones from Wolf Tooth components to go with my Shimano XT crank and RaceFace 30T.


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

typedeaf said:


> I slapped a 32T RF NW on a Deore 3x crank. The RD is SLX, w/o a clutch. I removed two big links (4 total) from my chain. When I freewheel on the top/largest gear, the chain slips. This only happens on the largest chainring. Any ideas? I am thinking chain slack or rd high/low misalignment.
> 
> EDIT: I took out the spacer in my BB on the drive side. After looking at my chainring to cassette alignment, I see that it is pretty horribly off. The 32T needs to be where the small chainring would be on my crank for it to be properly aligned. Removing the spacer helped some, but not enough. I guess I am going to purchase a true single speed crank. Or, I could run 1x9 instead of 1x10. I suspect people running 1x9 will not experience this problem.


The same problem here. Shimano deore Crank, converted to 32t Narrow wide, XT rear derailleur. In my case I think that my chain is almost dead, I have a new one that I should replace.


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## iscariot (Oct 24, 2006)

SOLOzoom said:


> Just posted a review of a new 1x10 set up with Race Face Ring and Wolf Tooth 42t cog. Check it out at SANTA CRUZ 5010 - *Wolf tooth 1x10 Conversion - SOLOzoom


So its not actually a review. Just a few paragraphs explaining that 1x10 is simpler in order to gain clicks for your shitty blog. Way to SPAM.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

iscariot said:


> So its not actually a review. Just a few paragraphs explaining that 1x10 is simpler in order to gain clicks for your shitty blog. Way to SPAM.


Looked like a clear and concise description of what it does and how they installed it to me.

They're not selling anything and there's only a few small ads right down at the bottom after the comments and reply section.


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

*All set!*

:thumbsup:


TalMiz said:


> The same problem here. Shimano deore Crank, converted to 32t Narrow wide, XT rear derailleur. In my case I think that my chain is almost dead, I have a new one that I should replace.


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## kcwa (Aug 12, 2008)

I've been running the 30T for about 6 months now with no chain guide and I love it. No noise, no dropped chains. Was thinking of picking one up for my other bike and saw that they are on sale here RaceFace Narrow-Wide Single Rings Chainrings - Outside Outfitters

I've never bought anything from this site, so can't really vouch for them at all...


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

*New blue bolts*


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## james035 (Apr 7, 2013)

*32T/1x10*

Got put on yesterday. 32T. Low noise and chatter. Haven't taken it out to trails yet. Need to find some green bolts.


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

Guys, can I use a Crank spacers with 30T ring ?


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## keen (Jan 13, 2004)

TalMiz said:


> Guys, can I use a Crank spacers with 30T ring ?


I noticed in your picture you are running a chain guide. I just installed a 30T NW with a Blackspire Stinger ISCG guide on a Shimano 3x9 crankset and the ring to guide is not aligned. This is because the NW ring is spaced inboard. I have installed a 1.5mm spacer on the crank spindle but I don't think this is advised. I paln on running w/o a guide. If I get excessive slap I might try a Bionicon guide. On a side note new and old drivetrain mixing are a recipe for poor shifting / drivetrain action.


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

Yes I'm running a BB chain guide which takes the chain ring outboard about 4mm. Now i added 3.8mm spacers on the chain ring which takes it inboard.
My plan is to switch to NW 30T but I don't know if I will be able to use the 3.8 spaces with this setup.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Isn't the 30t effectively spaced inboard 3mm or so as it is?


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

I think its 1mm spaced inboard.


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## jumb5150 (Aug 13, 2014)

This might be a stupid question but then again im a noob when it comes to gearing. Recently, I started thinking about doing a 1x10 setup on my 2x10 bike. Currently I have a 22/34 front and run a 11-36 rear. So I went to my LBS and purchased a 32t narrow wide. I was also thinking about picking up a 42t wolftooth giant cog. But then I started thinking "why not just stay with a 34t narrow wide?" . I mean what are the advantages of running 32t vs 34t in the front. Im also planning on 42t in the rear rather than 40t since im not a good climber.

BTW its a 650b im riding


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## googas7070 (Jan 2, 2014)

jumb5150 said:


> This might be a stupid question but then again im a noob when it comes to gearing. Recently, I started thinking about doing a 1x10 setup on my 2x10 bike. Currently I have a 22/34 front and run a 11-36 rear. So I went to my LBS and purchased a 32t narrow wide. I was also thinking about picking up a 42t wolftooth giant cog. But then I started thinking "why not just stay with a 34t narrow wide?" . I mean 1what are the advantages of running 32t vs 34t in the front. Im also planning on 42t in the rear rather than 40t since im not a good climber.
> 
> BTW its a 650b im riding


I ride a 26" and my wife rides a 29" bike. We both run a 34 tooth narrow wide ring up front. The 32 tooth just feels like I am spinning and spinning all the time. It depends on your terrain, rolling resistance of tires and personal preference.


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## jumb5150 (Aug 13, 2014)

if I go 32t will 42t in the rear make it easier to climb rather than a 40t?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

jumb5150 said:


> if I go 32t will 42t in the rear make it easier to climb rather than a 40t?


Yes.


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## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

jumb5150 said:


> This might be a stupid question but then again im a noob when it comes to gearing. Recently, I started thinking about doing a 1x10 setup on my 2x10 bike. Currently I have a 22/34 front and run a 11-36 rear. So I went to my LBS and purchased a 32t narrow wide. I was also thinking about picking up a 42t wolftooth giant cog. But then I started thinking "why not just stay with a 34t narrow wide?" . I mean what are the advantages of running 32t vs 34t in the front. Im also planning on 42t in the rear rather than 40t since im not a good climber.
> 
> BTW its a 650b im riding


If you are getting a 42T rather than a 40T because you aren't a good climber, you might want a 32T on the front chainring instead of 34T for the same reason. How fast do you need to go? I have a 30T x 11-36 on a 29er and it's fast enough for me. I am still planning to add a 42T on the cassette.


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## max_croft (Jan 25, 2012)

Hey guys,

So my 34t race face narrow wide arrived today. I'm currently on a shimano xt 780 triple crank setup. A few questions, can I change the chain ring without taking off the cranks? Do I have to install the race face chainring with the raceface logo facing inside and mount it in the middle chain ring position? Can I use the bolts from my shimano cranks or do i need new ones?


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## retswen (May 13, 2014)

1. You need to remove the crank, sorry bro.
2. You usually install with the logo facing out away from the bike.
3. You need single length chainring bolts because your current bolts connect both the middle and large chainrings, hence double the length you need.


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## max_croft (Jan 25, 2012)

brilliant. thanks for the quick and straight forward reply. looks like i've got some work to do tomorrow. thanks again


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

Hey guys, I read the entire thread, but still have questions. I live in a rural town with only a single LBS within an hour drive. The owner makes it very uncomfortable to be there because I buy parts online and bring them into him and he is now butt hurt, so I am having to learn and do all of my own maintenance.

My bike and equipment:
2013 Jamis Dakar XCR 2x10
Crankset SRAM S1000 GXP, 38/24
Cassette SRAM PG-1030, 11-36, 10-speed
Chain SRAM 1031
Derailleurs SRAM X9 rear long cage type 1 (no clutch)

Questions:

1) I have decided on a 30T Race Face NW ring. Do I also need to buy the Race Face spacer thingies? Also, do I just reuse my stock small/granny gear bolts to mount the new ring?

1a) I have read varying reports on 30T vs 32T threaded ring insert: If I decide to go with a 32T ring, is it threaded like the 30T ring? If no, then does that change my material list for bolts?

2) Do I need any special tool to remove the SRAM S1000 GXP crank? I know there is a cap & 8mm bolt under it on the non-drive side. Do I just remove that 8mm hex bolt and the arms will simply 'fall off' the bottom bracket, or do I need some type of crank puller tool?

3) I realize that I may, or may not need a new clutch type RD and only time will tell if I do. But if I do suffer chain drops, do I buy a short or medium cage X9 type 2 RD for my setup?


Thanks for any and all help. I'm learning, but I just want to make sure I get all of the parts needed when I order later today from jensonusa...........

THANKS IN ADVANCE!!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Forum search will be ur best friend on this.

Raceface has a chart on their website for what size bolts to use for what purpose. 30t u can use original ring bolts possibly depending on if any spacers needed, use of bashguard. I know 30t has 3mm spacer built in for chain clearance and also helps chainline. 32t iirc stock bolts/nuts will work fine again depending on spacers needed if any.

Crankset im no help on but hollow spindle cranks I have dealt with dont need a puller, once cap and retainer bolts removed non drive slides off and drive side/spindle can be pulled out.

For 1x u can run short or medium. Medium works fine but in my experience short does a better job of retention since less cage to flop around. I used to have slx non-clutch, never one issue except some chain slap, switched to Shimano zee clutched and yet to turn clutch on and only slap I have experienced is on the roughest of stuff and still minimal.

On a 2x crank, chainring spacers may be needed depending on the bikes chainline.

Note for lbs thing, can't blame him for getting angry. My lbs knows I buy online but I make big purchases, much of my gear, and some other things through him. But even on big purchases his prices are not crazy, around 10% or like my forks, $10 (manitou marvel 29" experts) higher than online. Allows me to save money on stuff he and I know are cheaper online (he can't make fair margin vs what I can buy for online) but gives a good, solid relationship. That's the trick compare prices and if ur only saving a few dollars online, buy from him. Never/rarely buying from lbs and buying online instead is the worst thing u can do to an lbs and you add to the ruin of something that's very important to cycling. The lbs. They gotta make money to be in business.
Sent from my Nokia Stupid Phone using Tapatalk


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

If you're paying the hourly rate for stuff to be installed, that's usually a better profit margin for the so than selling the stuff in the first place and installing it free.


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## dirtbyte (Aug 23, 2011)

Can we PLEASE keep this thread focused on the RaceFace N/W rings? There are plenty of other threads discussing LBS vs Online. Thanks!


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

Thanks for the info. In this thread I have seen a couple of people say that the 32T also has the threaded bolt holes like the 30T, which is contrary to RF's site as well as jensonusa's too. 

Can anyone confirm? Based on feedback from a couple of my riding 'buddies' they believe my fitness screams for a minimum 32T and say I'll run out of topend with the 30T.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

retswen said:


> 1. You need to remove the crank, sorry bro.
> 2. You usually install with the logo facing out away from the bike.
> 3. You need single length chainring bolts because your current bolts connect both the middle and large chainrings, hence double the length you need.


running a 32t , these are the bolts you need , then install the given spacers between the crank spiders and the chainring , graphics facing out. I just did this on my slx triple cranks last week , chainline is spot on.

bb set up via shimano directions , 2 washers on drive side , 1 washer on non drive side.

Amazon.com : TruVativ Steel Chainring Bolt Set, Black : Bike Chainrings And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

I switched from 32T to 30T and its running very well. The gear ratio is much more effective for me comparing to the 32T. I found that I can use much more gears on the Trail.
Only the 30T ring has the threaded bolt holes.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

TalMiz said:


> I switched from 32T to 30T and its running very well. The gear ratio is much more effective for me comparing to the 32T. I found that I can use much more gears on the Trail.
> Only the 30T ring has the threaded bolt holes.


Thanks for that! I'm more worried about running out of low gears, but my ride partners made my think about the topend. After thinking long and hard about it, the 30T is probably better for my 29er.

I now understand what those RF shim things are, as they go between the bolt head and the crank spider/ring mount.... I thought they somehow went between the ring and the crank spider/ring mount, but now I see.

So if I get the 30T, I will also get some shorter 'single ring' bolts at the same time rather than gamble on my stock granny gear bolts being correct. These: http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Singl...55432&sr=1-1&keywords=single+chain+ring+bolts

Thanks for the input!


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

For you guys running the 30T rings do you find that you can run these with out the need of a bash? I am getting ready for a new build but the crankset I am using might be hard to put a bash on. I am NOT looking to bash this because of chain drop but I dont wanna smash up the ring or break the chain. Do you feel like you have a large amount of clearance? 

I tend to beat up my bash guard as it is on my other bike but they are also 34T max. 34T bash vs a 30T chain ring is big difference in size but I still feel like I may need to rig something so I dont kill this thing.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

I ride in SoCal, and we affectionately call it "the moon"........ Rocks everywhere. I run a RF 30T with a 2014 X9 Type 2 RD and an 11-36 cassette, and it is bulletproof. No guide whatsoever, and knock on wood, not a single chain throw either.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Are you running a bash to protect your chain/ring? or do you feel its not needed because of the clearance the 30T gives you?


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

No, no bash guard or any chain device. I have a good feeling on what I can, and cannot clear, so I have personally never needed any type of bash guard regardless of drivetrain.


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## dirtbyte (Aug 23, 2011)

I ride in AZ where we also have a lot of rocks. When I was running 2x had a bash that was pretty dinged up. When I went 1x with a 32t, skipped the bash and 2000 miles later zero issues. Zero issues with hitting rocks. Zero dropped chains. This is on a hard tail. I am not sure but on a full squish bike you may need one because when both shocks are bottomed out it could be pretty low to the ground.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Thanks guys! It will be for a 1x10 fat bike with a front shock. Right now I run a fat bike 2x10 and a SS but I feel like I need the bash on those guys. They are both 32T with a 34T Max guard. The geared bash takes a beating all the time, but I have a feeling I will be more careful knowing I am not running a bash and the 30T will gives me some more room.


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## Robg68 (Oct 27, 2013)

I've been running a 30 tooth with no bash on my trek farley for about a month and no drops or smashed teeth. Personally I don't see any reason to run a bash with this. But to each their own. 


2014 Trek Fuel 8-29er. 2015 Trek Farley 6.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

I actually demo a Trek Farley with a 1x11 and it had a 30T or 32T on it I cant recall but I did actually clip it on a large log. It was a sloppy attempt on my part but why I figured Id ask. But it might have been a 32 NW as I dont recall seeing the same pattern as the 30T has facing out.



Robg68 said:


> I've been running a 30 tooth with no bash on my trek farley for about a month and no drops or smashed teeth. Personally I don't see any reason to run a bash with this. But to each their own.
> 
> 2014 Trek Fuel 8-29er. 2015 Trek Farley 6.


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## Robg68 (Oct 27, 2013)

ian0789 said:


> I actually demo a Trek Farley with a 1x11 and it had a 30T or 32T on it I cant recall but I did actually clip it on a large log. It was a sloppy attempt on my part but why I figured Id ask. But it might have been a 32 NW as I dont recall seeing the same pattern as the 30T has facing out.


I'm not sure if I understand your question. Mine is a Trek Farley 6 it was a 2X10 drive train and now it's 1X10. Here is a pic.









My bikes--2014 Trek Fuel EX 8 29er. 2015 Trek Farley 6.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Just stating I got to ride one at a trek demo and it was set up 1x11 using a NW ring. I believe it was a 32t and I ended up clipping it on a log. So my question was more or less who is running a 30T and feels they need to protect it with a bash or is the 30T not really an issue with clearance of trail conditions


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

I guess my opinion is it's down to what type of rider you are. If you're a hammering basher, that pounds his stuff then I would ride a bash guard regardless of the drivetrain. 

If you (like me) are easier on your equipment and can't remember that last time you bashed your chainring, then the extra clearance of either the 32T or 30T will be more than enough protection.


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## Calzor Suzay (Jun 18, 2007)

Just splashed the cash on a 36t cog to convert to 1x10 with OneUp 42t & RADr rear conversion, am I going to need a chain guide or does the NW part of the cog live up to the claims?


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

Question is a 30t for 2013 XT crank compatible with a 2013 XTR crank? I have heard conflicting stories..same bolt pattern?


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## mxracer394 (Feb 6, 2012)

I have a 2015 giant Talon 1 27.5". I want to go with the single 32t rf nw chain ring. I currently have the shimano xt shadow rear deraillur. To run the single ring, do i need to upgrade the derailleur. Since I'm fairly new to all this and still getting use to the clipless curve I don't want to have to deal with dropped chains too.


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

mxracer394 said:


> I have a 2015 giant Talon 1 27.5". I want to go with the single 32t rf nw chain ring. I currently have the shimano xt shadow rear deraillur. To run the single ring, do i need to upgrade the derailleur. Since I'm fairly new to all this and still getting use to the clipless curve I don't want to have to deal with dropped chains too.


No you don't have to do anything to the rear del. if you are only changing the front ring. You might have to size the chain though so you don't have to much slack when in the small cog in the back.
Run this and see how the chain retention goes. The Shadow Plus del. with the clutch is obviously better though.


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## mxracer394 (Feb 6, 2012)

Would a medium cage be better as well?


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

mxracer394 said:


> Would a medium cage be better as well?


Yes. It would have more resistance to the chain pulling on it compared to a long cage.


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## mxracer394 (Feb 6, 2012)

Thanks for thE advice


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## mxracer394 (Feb 6, 2012)

One last question. How can I look and tell a deraillur is a clutch style?


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

mxracer394 said:


> One last question. How can I look and tell a deraillur is a clutch style?


On Shimanos there is a little lever or switch near where the cage attaches to the pivot. It turns the clutch on or off. It should be obvious if you have it.


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## mxracer394 (Feb 6, 2012)

I'm sure I don't have the clutch style. Just curious because looking at online stores they didn't list them as clutch style


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## mxracer394 (Feb 6, 2012)

Nevermind figured out how to tell by looking and reading thanks


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## mxracer394 (Feb 6, 2012)

I ordered the 32t race face chain ring and the xt shadow plus derailleur. What about the chainring bolts? I got a set of 6.5mm coming. everything I looked at showed the 6.5mm for a single speed just assumed that was the right size


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

mxracer394 said:


> I ordered the 32t race face chain ring and the xt shadow plus derailleur. What about the chainring bolts? I got a set of 6.5mm coming. everything I looked at showed the 6.5mm for a single speed just assumed that was the right size


The bolts from your cranks would have worked fine most likely.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

blcman said:


> The bolts from your cranks would have worked fine most likely.


The single speed ones will work better though. The original ones may be too long.


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## jarhead22 (Feb 26, 2014)

i just order a 30t race face nw for converting my 3x9 to 1x and I was wondering if this device MRP 1X V2 Chain Guide > Components > Drivetrain > Chain Tensioners and Guides | Jenson USA would allow me to keep using my xtr long cage rd. or should I invest on a short cage rd since I don't think they make clutched 9 speed rd. thank you for your advice


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## boardjnky4 (Nov 20, 2014)

I would size the chain correctly and just run it with no chain retention device and see how it goes.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

What size chainring bolts do I need ?

RF NW 30t for XTR m980 crank. Stock ones are tapered and too short. Looks like I need untapered and longer...


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## boardjnky4 (Nov 20, 2014)

Sounds like you just answered your own question


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

Where can I order untapered chainring bolts that are 10.5 or 12mm long?


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

I used these Wolf Tooth 10mm bolts for my 30T Race Face ring mounted on my SRAM cranks:

View attachment 945281

Set of 4 Chainring Bolts for 104 x 30T (10 mm long) ? wolftoothcomponents.com


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

I need 12mm untapered chainring bolts to be able to use the xtr. Does anyone know where they can be ordered?


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

yeti575inCA said:


> I need 12mm untapered chainring bolts to be able to use the xtr. Does anyone know where they can be ordered?


race face makes a 12.5 mm set with spacers. amazon / ebay.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

Can someone tell me is there a noticeable difference between the 30T and 32T , like the way they feel in granny gear ? I'm thinking of going to the 30T from the 32T if so..


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

I made this change and I can tell that there is no significant change between the two rings. Go with the 30t if you are not in s good shape....


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

TalMiz said:


> I made this change and I can tell that there is no significant change between the two rings. Go with the 30t if you are not in s good shape....


Really dude dont be a d*ck.

There is a minor difference going from 32 down to 30 most noticeable when climbing alot. Its not some big difference but enough I noticed I wasn't as tired, could climb a bit further before legs give out.


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## AKamp (Jan 26, 2004)

tigris99 said:


> Really dude dont be a d*ck.
> 
> There is a minor difference going from 32 down to 30 most noticeable when climbing alot. Its not some big difference but enough I noticed I wasn't as tired, could climb a bit further before legs give out.


There would be about a 7% drop in gear inches. Bigger than the drop from an xx1 to xtr cassette that everyone says is unacceptable. In reality you probably wouldn't notice a big difference


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

Thanks fellas.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

30t will help with chain line as well due to their offset mounting lugs.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

Yeah ,I'm already running 2mm spacers on my 32t ,so it should be the same.


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## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

2mm spacers plus the 30t here for a decent chainline


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## RaceTripper (Oct 30, 2013)

I have been running a 30T x 11-36. Thinking about changing to a 32T x 11-42 setup.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Here's what my set up will be for my new Knolly Warden...

1. RF NW 30t or 32t ( I bought both and will decide which I like the best, but will keep both just in case)
2. KMC x10SL DLC Chain
3. Sram X0 Type 2 Rear Derailleur medium cage
4. Sram PG-1070 11-36
5. RF Next SL crankset
6. OneUp 40t with free 16t cog. I can't decide if I should go 42t. I think the shifting down from the 40t to the 36t would be smoother than the 42t to 36t. Am I thinking wrong?

Any critiques welcomed.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

JohnFL said:


> Can someone tell me is there a noticeable difference between the 30T and 32T , like the way they feel in granny gear ? I'm thinking of going to the 30T from the 32T if so..


I went from a 32T 11-36 to a 30T 11-36 and am glad I did. Here in SoCal, there is lots of climbing and with the 32T I only seemed to use 1-5 gears on my cassette, and with the 30T, I use all 10.

I would describe the change between the 32T & 30T as significant.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

D Bone said:


> I went from a 32T 11-36 to a 30T 11-36 and am glad I did. Here in SoCal, there is lots of climbing and with the 32T I only seemed to use 1-5 gears on my cassette, and with the 30T, I use all 10.
> 
> I would describe the change between the 32T & 30T as significant.


I just ordered a 30t. Did you shorten your chain a link or leave it the way it was ?


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

JohnFL said:


> I just ordered a 30t. Did you shorten your chain a link or leave it the way it was ?


I just left my chain the same length and have not had even a single chain drop....... I dig my 30T 11-36!


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

mevnet said:


> 2mm spacers plus the 30t here for a decent chainline


I might try this if there is room.



D Bone said:


> I just left my chain the same length and have not had even a single chain drop....... I dig my 30T 11-36!


Thanks D Bone.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

D Bone said:


> I just left my chain the same length and have not had even a single chain drop....... I dig my 30T 11-36!


Ditto. On both ring and chain length.


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

Had a 32T RaceFace NW put on my bike since the original middle ring of 3 was 32 and that's all I used. Only about 20 miles on it over 2 days but worked perfectly. SLX Shadow Plus rear derailleur came on the bike. 

I weighed all the removed parts except the cable at the grocery store produce scale and it came out to a bit over a pound. Not a weight-weenie, just never used the other 2 rings and thought 1X would look cleaner.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

I mounted up the 30T and took one link out. Road it around block and up a hill feels pretty good with the 11-36.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

Nice! Give yourself at least 3 weeks of riding your usual trails before you make a decision on if you like it or not. The first few rides with mine, I thought "Oh man, this climb is tough, IDK 'bout this" but in just a few more rides, I was blazing right up those same climbs laughing at myself....... Ok, maybe not laughing as my lungs couldn't spare the oxygen, but you get the idea!


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## coot271 (Sep 15, 2010)

Planning on purchasing the 30T and installing on my low-end Truvativ crankset....Will a set of "single ring" bolts (i believe its 8.5mm) be sufficient to attach the ring to the arms, or need longer? Also, should be able to thread the bolts directly into the 30T ring since its threaded, yes?


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

coot271 said:


> Planning on purchasing the 30T and installing on my low-end Truvativ crankset....Will a set of "single ring" bolts (i believe its 8.5mm) be sufficient to attach the ring to the arms, or need longer? Also, should be able to thread the bolts directly into the 30T ring since its threaded, yes?


Yes the bolts thread into the ring , 8.5 mm might work..I used 10 mm bolts from a stock chainring set and they were a perfect fit. Just be very careful not to strip it ,because the ring is aluminum.


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## coot271 (Sep 15, 2010)

Scrappy jr. said:


> Theirs a lot of log, rock and concrete obstacles on my local trails! I'd rather spend the extra $ and hit the bash gaurd than the chainring.this place is hell on rims and chainrings!
> View attachment 873320
> View attachment 873321


NICE! What Trail and where??


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## quote (Aug 11, 2012)

West Delray in South Florida. Small world.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

after using my RF narrow wide for probably 6+ months I realized I had it mounted where the big ring would normally go on my triple ring slx crankset with the graphics facing the outside. moving the ring onto the other side of the holes where it should be. I realized the single ring bolts I had would bottom out, even with swapping the bolts around. I assume the female bolt is suppose to go into the chainring? cause one side of the chainring has a cutout just big enough for the female bolt end to push into it. I had to swap the chainring so the fancy graphics are facing the inside now in order for the bolts to not bottom out.

hopefully its set up right now?


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## Calvin27 (Mar 25, 2014)

Can anyone give me pointers on chainline? I'm currently going from 2x to 1x and running 10sp, GXP crankset if that makes a difference. which side should I chuck the chainring on?


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

Gabe3 said:


> after using my RF narrow wide for probably 6+ months I realized I had it mounted where the big ring would normally go on my triple ring slx crankset with the graphics facing the outside. moving the ring onto the other side of the holes where it should be. I realized the single ring bolts I had would bottom out, even with swapping the bolts around. I assume the female bolt is suppose to go into the chainring? cause one side of the chainring has a cutout just big enough for the female bolt end to push into it. I had to swap the chainring so the fancy graphics are facing the inside now in order for the bolts to not bottom out.
> 
> hopefully its set up right now?


sounds good , mine is mounted up on slx triples in the pic for reference.

is yours the 32 t or 30 t ring ?


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

Calvin27 said:


> Can anyone give me pointers on chainline? I'm currently going from 2x to 1x and running 10sp, GXP crankset if that makes a difference. which side should I chuck the chainring on?


those cranks will run it just fine.

these are the bolts that will work the best for a 32 t. use the spacers between the chainring and the spider arms , with the graphics facing out.

Truvativ Steel Chainring Bolt Set 15 8mm Bolts with Washers | eBay

if you are running the 30 t , these bolts will be best , follow the instructions with a light film of grease on the bolts , so they don't creak.

Set of 4 Chainring Bolts for 104 x 30T (10 mm long) ? wolftoothcomponents.com


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

JohnFL said:


> sounds good , mine is mounted up on slx triples in the pic for reference.
> 
> is yours the 32 t or 30 t ring ?


mine won't mount with the graphics facing the outside like yours, the bolts bottom out if I try that. mine is the 32t

heres a couple pics of mine. is your crankset the double ring version?


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

if you use the TruVativ bolt set I posted you can mount it up with the graphics facing out , use the spacers between the spiders and the chainring. this will give you the correct chainline.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

JohnFL said:


> if you use the TruVativ bolt set I posted you can mount it up with the graphics facing out , use the spacers between the spiders and the chainring. this will give you the correct chainline.


ok, thanks. I'll probably keep it the way it is unless I really want the graphics facing the outside again.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

Gabe3 said:


> ok, thanks. I'll probably keep it the way it is unless I really want the graphics facing the outside again.


If you are happy with the chainline than leave it. I made sure my chainline was optimal so I didn't wear out drive train components prematurely , chains , cassettes ,etc.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

JohnFL said:


> If you are happy with the chainline than leave it. I made sure my chainline was optimal so I didn't wear out drive train components prematurely , chains , cassettes ,etc.


do you think my chainline is still incorrect? it was definitely wrong when I had the NW ring in the big ring position.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Gabe3 said:


> do you think my chainline is still incorrect? it was definitely wrong when I had the NW ring in the big ring position.


Chainline going to be determined by ur bike. If chain is straight back what gear on the cassette is it in? Center is usually ok but not ideal, more inward a bit will be best.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

So, various NW chainrings have been in use for a while now. What's chain life like?


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## brandaopj (Dec 27, 2012)

can i use this ring on a 2x10 cranks?


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## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

brandaopj said:


> can i use this ring on a 2x10 cranks?


Yes, but not with a front dérailleur.


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## brandaopj (Dec 27, 2012)

yes i am asking with a front dérailleur.
Is there any ring on the market like RF but i can use with a front dérailleur?


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## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

ColinL said:


> So, various NW chainrings have been in use for a while now. What's chain life like?


I haven't used mine long enough to require a new chain but I speculate that NW may cause shorter chain life due to more lateral wear especially if one rides with the chain line at the low hear or high gear extreme a lot. The drive train is noisier with the NW as it is designed with tighter tolerances. It is pulling the chain onto a tighter fitting chain ring, causing more pin flex and plate wear.

Worth it though, due to fewer chain drops.


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## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

brandaopj said:


> yes i am asking with a front dérailleur.
> Is there any ring on the market like RF but i can use with a front dérailleur?


A ramped chain ring designed for multiple front gears is needed. I find Shimano XT rings to work and wear very well.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

brandaopj said:


> yes i am asking with a front dérailleur.
> Is there any ring on the market like RF but i can use with a front dérailleur?


VERY difficult to shift gears. The whole point of the N/W rings is chain retention.


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## goodoljake (Jul 31, 2011)

Gabe3 said:


> mine won't mount with the graphics facing the outside like yours, the bolts bottom out if I try that. mine is the 32t
> 
> heres a couple pics of mine. is your crankset the double ring version?


To remedy this you need shorter bolts as the ones you are using are probably for two rings, not one. The other option is to get the race face outer spacers which clean up the look and sit where the larger outer ring used to go. Race Face Chainring Shims > R > Race Face | Jenson USA


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## crashwins (Oct 7, 2009)

Awesome! Thanks for the review. Super helpful. 

I'm looking to run a 30t narrow-wide on a Saint M820 crank and a 11-36t in the rear with the M820 short cage -- anyone confirm that this would work ok? SO much has changed with drivetrains since I last looked to buy one  Thanks!


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

Since I had my bike apart, I thought I would go ahead and take some pictures of wear on the N/W over the last 15 months. I have another ring with 50 or so miles on it for the comparison. Obviously, YMMV, as I ride in desert conditions.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

^^ Wow, looks damn near new! My RF 30T is also wearing very well on my converted 2x10, 104BCD, 10speed setup, with a 49.5mm chainline.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

The last two pics. You can see the wear on the thick teeth vs the newer one. The outer wears alot more from the chain line in the large cogs.


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

RS VR6 said:


> The last two pics. You can see the wear on the thick teeth vs the newer one. The outer wears alot more from the chain line in the large cogs.


Yep, and I have moved the chainline as much as possible, too. For just over 1000 trail miles, that wear isn't bad at all.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

question for you guys. I'm running 1x9 with a NW 32t ring. 11-32 cassette. I live where its flat for the most part. I'm going to bryson city, nc and will be riding around there. probably asheville too. I want to do some real climbing. I live in south florida. I'm wondering if the climbs will be too much for my setup. I'm in good shape. but I don't know how steep and long they are.

my crankset is a shimano slx triple ring. I've still got the 22t ring it came with. I'm thinking of putting the 22t ring on. can I have both the race face NW and the 22t on at the same time? I figure if the going gets tough then I'll put my chain on the 22t. I won't have a derailleur but I don't think it will be a big problem going slow.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I'd be more inclined to try finding an 11-34 cassette and 30t n/w for the climbing stuff.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Yes you could do that but keep it mind that unless you have a clutch type rear it could maybe slightly drop chain under some conditions if really rough but thats not likely. Might be a pain to have to stop drop the to the little ring but if its just you and a friend its not a big deal. I know someone did the same thing to keep the 22T for snow riding on his fat bike. I was going to do the same as well for the winter but 30T W/ OneUp kit worked perfectly for me.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Gabe3 said:


> question for you guys. I'm running 1x9 with a NW 32t ring. 11-32 cassette. I live where its flat for the most part. I'm going to bryson city, nc and will be riding around there. probably asheville too. I want to do some real climbing. I live in south florida. I'm wondering if the climbs will be too much for my setup. I'm in good shape. but I don't know how steep and long they are.
> 
> my crankset is a shimano slx triple ring. I've still got the 22t ring it came with. I'm thinking of putting the 22t ring on. can I have both the race face NW and the 22t on at the same time? I figure if the going gets tough then I'll put my chain on the 22t. I won't have a derailleur but I don't think it will be a big problem going slow.


Great idea.

On that rare, super long, steep climb around here getting off the the bike to down shift to the granny by hand is reasonable. At least until my 10 speed stuff wears out and I go true 1x11.

This is somthing I was thinking about it and wondering if there would be any unforeseen issues.


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## willworkforbeer (Jan 14, 2007)

It works as advertised, not sure what else to say about it.
I got rid of my bashwich and have not had a problem with 1x10, no dropped chains over 2k + miles; I have an X9 clutch der though.
No, I did not read the previous bazillion posts, so if this is redundant info, my apologies.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Miker J said:


> Great idea.
> 
> On that rare, super long, steep climb around here getting off the the bike to down shift to the granny by hand is reasonable. At least until my 10 speed stuff wears out and I go true 1x11.
> 
> This is somthing I was thinking about it and wondering if there would be any unforeseen issues.


For the database...

Running a 30t RaceFace N/W on a 3013/2014 XT double crank. I'm still on a 10 speed cassette. The ring is machined to space itself inboard which gives a nicer chainline, and so the chain can clear the spider.

The ring went on with zero issues which is nice since Shimano seems to go out of there way to ensure incompatibility.

As there is the rare, steep, prolonged climb around here, where a granny ring is nice, I reinstalled the 24t on the crank. It works well. I feared there might be clearance issues with the N/W bing spaced inboard, but no. All is well. Maybe a bit of chain rub if in the 24t and in the lower half of the cassette out back, but I find that a non-issue.

Sure, this is not a long term solution, but until my 10 speed stuff wears out, it is a great middle ground.


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## XC Mike (Sep 26, 2004)

Looking to place a order for a RF32t and wanted to know if the Race Face Chainring Shims will work with my 2013 Deore cranks?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

So I'm not reading 450+ posts, how well do these rings work on a 1x9?

I'm currently tired of the noise from my MRP Lops guide and would love to give it a try with my 1x9 Shimano Saint SS setup.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

eurospek said:


> So I'm not reading 450+ posts, how well do these rings work on a 1x9?
> 
> I'm currently tired of the noise from my MRP Lops guide and would love to give it a try with my 1x9 Shimano Saint SS setup.


as long as you have a clutch derailleur , no problem.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

johnD said:


> as long as you have a clutch derailleur , no problem.


It's a non-clutch derailleur.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

If ur on a hard tail ur fine on a Fs ull need either a clutch rd or chain guide


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

tigris99 said:


> If ur on a hard tail ur fine on a Fs ull need either a clutch rd or chain guide


Depends on where you ride. I used a 30T RF N/W with a SRAM X7 RD on a 140mm FS bike for several weeks and had no drops. No guide. It's pretty rocky here in AZ, too.

I won't tell anyone a non-clutch is just as good as clutch, but it CAN be done with success.

2nd Edit: I freaking love my RaceFace N/W ring. It flat works.


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## partusa (Nov 18, 2011)

ColinL said:


> So, various NW chainrings have been in use for a while now. What's chain life like?


I got 700 miles on my sram 1031 chain using the NW chainring, but I think that I will need to replace the chainring soon.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

tigris99 said:


> If ur on a hard tail ur fine on a Fs ull need either a clutch rd or chain guide


Figured I'd update my findings. I installed the RF NW 32 on with a Saint SS 9-spd der. non-clutch and while it was much quieter when it was smooth pedaling, I took it off and went back to an e13 guide ring and MRP Lopes guide. Every time it was rocky and bumpy I kept checking if my chain was still on, and not to mention, even on a hardtail with a SS der, the chain was making more noise now hitting the chainstay and bouncing around than the chain guide ever did. I will definitely give it another try when it comes time to dump my OG 9-speed setup, even though there's nothing wrong with it, and I don't need more gearing.


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## cdbusby (Jun 10, 2015)

Just installed a 32t N/W on my Giant XTC 1. Didn't miss my other rings, loving the 1x10 setup. Went over some pretty gnarly sections and my chain bounced around a bit (need to remove some links) but it didn't drop. Little bit of drivetrain noise on the top and bottom gears, but nothing crazy. Shifting still felt just fine.

For reference, here is what I'm running for a setup:


32T Race Face N/W ring
E13 single chainring bolts (5mm)
Shimano SLX Triple crank
Shimano Deore XT rear derailleur (no clutch)
Shimano HG62 11x36 10-Speed cassettee
Shimano 10 speed chain


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

eurospek said:


> So I'm not reading 450+ posts, how well do these rings work on a 1x9?
> 
> I'm currently tired of the noise from my MRP Lops guide and would love to give it a try with my 1x9 Shimano Saint SS setup.





johnD said:


> as long as you have a clutch derailleur , no problem.


Im running 1x rings on all my MTB's and while some do have clutch derailleurs 3 bikes dont and 2 are full sus. I have no problems with chain drop, my HT 29er 1x10 is just using an X9 and no problems and my two full sus 1x9 bikes are using older XT, one rapid rise and one normal pull. Other bikes are using Clutch type 2's and while I find they are smoother on the trails with way less chatter the non clutch bikes are still performing just as same.

I am building a monster cross bike that will be using a road rear derailleur (Microshifts version of 105), 11-28 rear cassette and a 104BCD 34T NW Ring and I expect as well to have no issues. At some point I will also pick up some of the new Cross 110BCD NW rings when price goes down. Honestly I love the 1x set ups its nice to be able to drop the front mech and get a cleaner gear range with smoother transitions.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

Have any of y'all had the 30 T chainring creak or bolts creak after a while. seems to only do it with the 30 T , when I install the 32 T , no creak. very annoying , maybe it's b/c i'm to heavy , 270 lb ? 
I can grease everything up and it will be silent for a few rides but eventually starts up creaking again.

Any advice ? thx


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Im your size and have no issues with same chainring. Creaking means movement so something is moving and not as tight as it needs to be or not fitting correctly


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

tigris99 said:


> Im your size and have no issues with same chainring. Creaking means movement so something is moving and not as tight as it needs to be or not fitting correctly


what bolts are you using ? i'm using race face botls ..i have checked the ring with a fine tooth comb and don't see anything. do you grease the bolts also ?


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

it must be defective , the threads were not drilled and tapped square is the only thing I can figure..there is some play between the bolts and the ring , just enough to make it creak I guess.. putting the 32 t back on now , gonna order another 30 t.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Do you have it on the right direction? There is a sleeved section that fits in the crank to act as if there was a standard 2 piece chainring bolt in there.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

tigris99 said:


> Do you have it on the right direction? There is a sleeved section that fits in the crank to act as if there was a standard 2 piece chainring bolt in there.


yep , the main race face graphics out , insert into the spiders of the crank..this ring has done it since day one. I have brand new set of wolftooths bolts , I think I'm gonna order a 30 T from them and see how it works out.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

I'm 210lbs on a 30T with almost 700 miles on it and have not experienced any creaking. I'm using the 10mm long, aluminum WolfTooth bolts with Park grease.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

Yeah, something is up with that ring I have..I put the 32 t back on , not a peep.

Thanks for the replies.


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## bitewerks (May 14, 2009)

I'm thinking of ordering the 30t ring. I'm currently on a 32t RF single ring crank with bash guard ('Ride' crank, I think? It's a model made a couple-few years ago). Would I just re-use the bolts along with the RF shims for the 30t ring? I don't need the bash.

Also, would it be easier to break loose the bolts while the crank is on the bike? I would imagine they're on there pretty tight...


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

No shims, no nuts. 30t has spacer built in. And if ur using a bash already ull need to keep using it or your bolts will end up being too long possibly

Yes break loose before removing crank, all easier.


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## bitewerks (May 14, 2009)

tigris99 said:


> No shims, no nuts. 30t has spacer built in. And if ur using a bash already ull need to keep using it or your bolts will end up being too long possibly
> 
> Yes break loose before removing crank, all easier.


I'd like to not use the bash so shims would take its place. Right? Here's the crank I'm running but the bash is a little different:

Race Face Ride Mountain Bike Crankset Black 175mm 32 Bash | eBay

UPDATE:
I ordered the 30t NW from Art's Cycles & will install the bash just so I don't have to order the shims. Looking forward to some easier spins uphill in hot TX weather!

I just removed the rings & bash off of an old RF DH crank with no issues. I didn't need anything to hold the back of the crank nuts so is the nut removal tool not totally necessary?


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## bitewerks (May 14, 2009)

Are the tabs on my RF Ride crank considered 'fat tabs' & will need the 10mm bolts for the 30t NW ring? If so, then I'll need to order some.

Thanks!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Their spacers to move the ring away from the spider a couple mm and their threaded to take the place of the nut. I use my standard bolts that came on my crank when it was 3x for bash and 30t. Not sure of their 10 or 12


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## bitewerks (May 14, 2009)

30t RF NW installed on my Evil Sovereign. I ditched the bg as the bolts would have been too short. Without the bash, bolts were perfect. I didn't need to remove any links from my chain, either. It doesn't feel any slacker. Shifts smoothly & none of the noise others have reported (pedaling around in the street). I'll find out how it spins on the trails tomorrow.


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## Crooked Cop (May 28, 2014)

My new 30T Raceface working great. Not a single dropped chain after riding Downie and Soquel.


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## Michael Hardy (May 5, 2010)

I drop at least one chain per ride with my 32t race face NW and sram x9 w/ clutch. Riding a pivot firebird. Maybe something to do with it being such long travel or rocky az terrain/aggressive riding. I don't really want to run a guide. Hoping to try the new Kore stronghold ring. Anybody else with bad luck???


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Yes, I used to drop my chain on a certain trail almost every ride. I met a fellow Warden rider who has the same problem, mostly on the same trail. I installed a Blackspire chain guide/bash guard and now my chain is secure.


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## Crooked Cop (May 28, 2014)

Maybe try taking a link out of your chain?


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Michael Hardy said:


> I drop at least one chain per ride with my 32t race face NW and sram x9 w/ clutch. Riding a pivot firebird. Maybe something to do with it being such long travel or rocky az terrain/aggressive riding. I don't really want to run a guide. Hoping to try the new Kore stronghold ring. Anybody else with bad luck???


I dropped chains often on a Spider 29c with RF 32t NW on RF Next SL crank, with 11-36 rear + Shimano 986 RD w/clutch on. The RF NW ring seems to be the least secure. Happened on G-outs. Possibly the Spider's high chain growth and highly sensitive suspension causing probs? Was annoying since I had to stop to put it back on ASAP, out of fear that it'd be grinding on the frame. I've since broken down the Spider and ride a diff frame, but use a top guide when using any more reputable 1x ring designs (X-sync, mrp wave, wolftooth, abs black).


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

No drops on an RF 32t NW on a Stumpy hard tail with Zee rear mech.


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

I had drops with the 32t NW chainring on my Next SL cranks. I run it with a chainguide now.

I've had no drops on my XT cranks with a 32t NW chainring, even after 3 days at Whistler bike park. I have a bash guard and am using a non-clutch SLX rear derailleur.


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## tony92231 (Oct 13, 2015)

*New Race Face Chainring*

Found a new Race Face narrow wide chain ring on sale at E-Bay for $25.00.I Was curious how it would work with my 9 speed cog and derailleur. Ive got new set up ordered. I was surprised this thing works fantastic. Hit some rough trails and jumps, not a single dropped chain, or mis shift. Can't wait till the rest of me set up arrives.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Its been almost a year of riding them and the only time I have ever dropped my chain was once on a gnarly section and shifted. The chain is very much worn in as well as the Narrow Wide Ring. Its the original setup that I ride the heck out of! Still more life in it but I can only blame it on worn chain and ring, it has not done it again on that bike and I have lost zero faith in them. I converted all my bikes to 1x Setups and love them! Like I said almost a year of riding them 4-6 days a week and no complaints at all! No chain guides needed and no random drops. I run most of my bikes with clutch derailleurs but a few are not and they dont drop at all! Even on the Full Suspension bikes.


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## tonyt73 (Aug 18, 2013)

I have dropped chains from my NW chainrings; though I mostly put that down to either the clutch being off or not tensioned correctly after lots of use.

RF are my perferred NW chainrings though.
I used a wolftooth once and it wore out in half the time the RF did.
It actually wore out faster than the chain. :-(

I do use a chainguide now.
Just about to get a new one; the OneUp chain guide. Small, light and functional, perfect.


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

I think the key is running a 10sp chain (slightly narrower) with the NW chainring. I've had no drops on two bikes running with a 10sp chain.


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## noosa2 (May 20, 2004)

Just over a year of riding the local chunk with a 30t race face NW, XT shadow plus rear derailluer, XT/oneup cassette and have not dropped a chain. I love products that you install and then totally forget about.


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## Darth Pinche (Feb 19, 2013)

I recently installed the Micro Narrow Wide 24t with its included mini bash ring. It looks slick and works great for my 1x9 drivetrain. Running with a 12-36 cassette, it give me all the range I need. I now find I am using all the cogs in my cassette during a ride. I was using a 30t but it was not low enough for my trails. Sure the high end is lacking, but I never ride on pavement and all my trails are pretty tight so it is perfect for me. About $50 online and comes with the bashring and all hardware. The bashring is 104 bcd and the 24t is 64bcd


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## jxv158 (Feb 5, 2016)

I've used Wolftooth and Raceface chain rings (and OneUp but they are former RF guys). All perform very well but I'd give the nod to RF. The RF rings perform very well, no drops, even on a 9spd hardtail with Shadow (not Shadow+) derailleur. Only used Shadow+ derailleurs on full sus bikes with similar results. I find it takes a couple of runs (break-in) to eliminate a minimal rubbing noise. Love Race Face.


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## yogiprophet (Jan 9, 2006)

unrooted said:


> View attachment 868781


These hanging scales are meant to be used in the vertical position. Actual weight will be more.


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