# how to pick correct crankset size?



## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

I'm looking to shave weight from my '13 revel 1 29er and I have heard one area that is a sled is the crankset.

The Giant site says it uses: SR Suntour NEX w/Chainguard, 24/34/42 

There is a reason this thread is in the beginner/s corner, I just have no clue what would be a direct bolt-on replacement for this component. The only guess I have is the numbers indicate either the diamater of each sprocket or possibly the amount of teeth? 

Any help or recommendations of budget-friendly and weight-saving cranksets are appreciated.


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## SchnitzelNinja (Apr 20, 2012)

It really does depend on your budget. I'm assuming your current cranks use a square taper bottom bracket. Most new square taper cranksets on the market nowadays are very low end, so you really won't see that much of a weight reduction. You may be able to pick up some older, higher end cranks second hand, and use your current chainrings.

Personally, I'd recommend spending about $100 on a shimano hollowtech deore chainset. This will include new chainrings (keep your old ones as spares, they should fit on the new cranks), and a new external bottom bracket. 

Bear in mind, you will need some specialised tools to remove your current cranks, namely a crank puller and the appropriate bb tool as well as a special spanner to install the new bb.


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## SchnitzelNinja (Apr 20, 2012)

Of course, there are other places to save some weight. Lighter tubes and tyres would be my firsts top if you haven't already.


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## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

so that would re-use (unless additionally replaced) the crank arms? but would still save weight from my current setup? $100 is absolutely reasonable, I figured to spend closer to $200 for the whole kit.


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## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

SchnitzelNinja said:


> Of course, there are other places to save some weight. Lighter tubes and tyres would be my firsts top if you haven't already.


Certainly on the to-do list, I just haven't spent any time trying to figure out what would be a reasonable upgrade without spending too much. I'm sort of going top to bottom instead, which is probaby the opposite of what I should be doing... any tips on cheap-ish 29er tires that are lighter and will allow for light XC and suburban riding?


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

That bike would benefit from everything and that's where it becomes more reasonable to be careful. You should put together a list with prices to see where you will end up. The most significant upgrade would be the fork for maybe 350. Once you have a final figure, add what you could sell the stock bike for and see what you get new or used for that budget. You should be looking at a much better choice. You'll probably be in the Airborne Goblin neighborhood.


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## Koppuh Klyde (Jul 13, 2010)

coling said:


> so that would re-use (unless additionally replaced) the crank arms? but would still save weight from my current setup? $100 is absolutely reasonable, I figured to spend closer to $200 for the whole kit.


A lot of cranksets will also include a bottom bracket. I had to put one on bc I was rounding the square in the crankarm causing it to loosen WAAAAY too much. I had the LBS do it for $25. Most here will tell you to man up and do it yourself. :skep: $200 should net you a fine crankset. The 24/34/42 is referring to the teeth on the front sprockets.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

First, a big +1 to eb1888's recommendation to just get a new bike. You can replace literally every component on that bike to some advantage. It's very expensive, and if your motivation is weight, you've still got the frame. I'm more of a fan of used bikes. I like to be able to look at things I'm considering buying, and you'd be surprised how many people buy an expensive bike, ride it twice, store for two or three years, and then resell. Totally jealous of the bike my friend bought that way (rode twice, and resold too, so it'll be a third-owner bike with about eight ride hours.)

As far as replacing the crank is concerned, I think looking for the crank itself to be drop-in compatible is actually not quite the right approach. Cranksets cost more than bottom brackets and as some other posters have mentioned, a lot of the new ones come with a bottom bracket anyway. That's the bearing that mounts in the frame, and that the crank mounts in. So choose a crank that's compatible with a bottom bracket that fits in your frame - the Deore mentioned above would be a good choice if you must do this - and also get the bottom bracket. Personally, I'd have the shop do the swap because it should be pretty cheap, and I wouldn't want to buy the tool to work on the old bottom bracket. Swapping bottom brackets isn't terribly difficult, and it does make sense to me to own the tool to work on the ones on my current bikes, however.

Now, if you must do a bunch of weight weenie upgrades on that bike, I'd suggest starting far away from the bottom bracket and working toward it. You'll notice contact points the most, although that may not effect weight much - so a saddle that works for you, landing the grips in the right place for you, pedals you like, maybe better shoes. After that, rotating weight and swing weight make the most difference. So wheels and tires, suspension fork, and even mass at the saddle and seatpost will make more difference in how the bike handles. Suntour may back you into needing a new crank, but you probably have a little time, at least.

I'm still riding a 26" bike, but I'm pretty happy with the Schwalbe Rocket Ron and Racing Ralph 2.25" for tires. They come in a couple of different pricepoints, so the middle line may be well-priced. For disclosure, "Schwalbe" appears somewhere on my jersey. I put some Bontrager 29-something tires on my fiancee's hybrid a while ago, and those seem to be working out relatively well. They're a little skinnier with a lower tread, which is good on the street without sucking too badly off-road. Street and off-road tires are about as close to opposite as tires can be and still both be tires, though.

Sorry for the long post. I get more concise after I finish my first cup of coffee.


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## Koppuh Klyde (Jul 13, 2010)

I thought of two reasons to keep the bike.

1. Being a noob means screwing things up while learning. While most of us would LOVE to have an expensive bike to ride doesnt mean we should. Just getting into the sport also means getting a bunch of tools and parts to learn with. $$$. 

2. The extra weight on the bike will only make the workout that much better. Now, the OP DID state he wants a crankset to lighten the bike so for all intents and purposes youre right, Andrw. If the OP feels his bike is just too heavy then he/she would mostly benefit from a new (or used) bike. Im thinkin he just has "upgraditis" and has some money burning a hole in his pocket.

What I was planning was to slowly upgrade what I needed then just buy a frameset to throw all those parts onto. This is making me think of the "whos got the baddest entry level bike" thread where theres the Hardrock w/ Stans wheelset and a Reba. Each of those parts cost more than the bike did!

Op, in the end, these guys definitely know more than I do. So consider the sources. Why not just shoehorn your money away and ride this piss out of the Giant for a while? Once you got some experience and enough cash then upgrade the whole bike. Theres different ways of going about this and you'll make the right decision based on your needs. :thumbsup:


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## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

I completely understand the point of view to cut losses and total up costs of all upgrades and instead invest in a new bike. But you are right I do like the Gaint frame and I DO have money burning a hole in my pocket. I also DO have upgraditis. Always have, every car, every bike, every sound system in my car/house.. etc. I picked the bike out with family members as a gift so it would also be a bit disrespectful to flip it and go a different route, especially as I regularly ride with the same family members.

I have upgraded the shock already, I got a new take-off RS Tora with PopLock for $250 and also added lightweight post/saddle. I am already in the price of the bike and I dont care about that. I like the challenge of improving something. I also plan on taking many of the leftover parts and adding them to a cheap frame for neihborhoos SS.

That said, what are some good choices for a crankset replacement?


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## Koppuh Klyde (Jul 13, 2010)

Awesome! Looks like we just needed some more info like that.

Personally, I went w/ the Truvativ Stylos since they were in my price range and the rest of my drivetrain is Sram. Have you looked through the reviews section of MTBR. Thats what I originally came here for and just kinda stumbled across the forums.

Crankset Reviews Products Listing

This is a good start. Theres links to online retailers also.


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## Hoban (Oct 14, 2012)

If it's a standard 68 or 73 shell (it should be), you can get any external bearing crankset to replace. I got a 3x9 SLX set for $160 from Chain Reaction. The Deore recommendation above is also good. Sram x5, x7, or X9 is great also. The new styles come with bottom bracket and I especially like the Shimano style install. 

Look around for deals online and you can get a nice set for $100-150.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Others have mentioned the Shimano Deore crankset. I like the SLX better, but it's also more expensive. So up to you to decide if the price difference is worthwhile. You should think about whether or not you use the 44t chainring. I don't find it very useful off-road, but even on a 29er, you may find you want it when you're on pavement.

I think the old-school double +bash setup is pretty cool. 22t granny, 32t or 36t middle, and a bash guard. You can get a 22/36/bash SLX stock. Also, 10-speed cranksets are supposed to have slightly different spacing from 9-speed cranksets, requiring a matching derailleur. Check the sticky on the drivetrain forum. For myself, I'm at "You can have my 9-speed drivetrain when you pry it out of my cold, dead hands," at least on my mountain bike.

Since you've already bought the parts that are most often trouble on new frames, I won't tell you to start with a new frame instead. And that might be too recognizable a change.


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## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

Ok this is great, I'm starting to get some great feedback on specific models and thats what I wanted. I will note that the point of this upgrade is weight-related but also something that is basically a direct bolt-on. I will not be doing the install, the LBS will for cheap, but I would like something that can go right in and not affect the peformance/reliability of the derailer, casset, etc. right now. Will I change those in the future? quite possible. 

So this goes back to the title of the thread, what exactly is necessary for this to take place? Frankly I just don't understand all of the jargon and #'s when reading the descriptions of different cranksets.

Thanks again!


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## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

Cranksets

I just cannot seem to differentiate what will or will not go right on my Giant. I get the feeling many of them are compatible but just a slight difference in one aspect would not allow to work correctly on my bike. Thats my fear.


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## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

BlueSkyCycling.com - Race Face Deus X-Type Crankset w/ Bottom Bracket

Can anyone advise if this will work on my bike? seems like a great deal..


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## Hoban (Oct 14, 2012)

Here are some good deals. Deore for $80...

MTB Chainsets & Cranks

I got the SLX set above.


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## Hoban (Oct 14, 2012)

coling said:


> BlueSkyCycling.com - Race Face Deus X-Type Crankset w/ Bottom Bracket
> 
> Can anyone advise if this will work on my bike? seems like a great deal..


It will for your bottom bracket, and is 10 speed if that is what you need.


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## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

It is a 3x8, so I guess it will not work. this is all crankset 101 for me, so why would it only be compatible with a 10 speed?

How would you say the difference in weight was when you put on the SLX?


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## Hoban (Oct 14, 2012)

The 9 speed cranksets will work no problem. Just get a solid external bearing 3x9 crankset. 

I got the SLX because it is built a little stronger than the LX/XTR sets. It's more of an "all mountain" set than XC.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

coling said:


> It is a 3x8, so I guess it will not work. this is all crankset 101 for me, so why would it only be compatible with a 10 speed?
> 
> How would you say the difference in weight was when you put on the SLX?


That raceface deus crankset will work just fine with your existing setup.

The whole 8-9-10sp stuff is really mixed up.

basically, the 10sp stuff for the rear cassette has everything packed closer together in order to run 10 gears back there. They also use a slightly narrower chain in order to fit/shift nicely.

Where it gets confusing is what can be used on the front - I have had huge amounts of success running "10sp" cranks on a 9sp system (chain and rear derailleur). Also have had no issues with a "9sp" crank and 10sp rear cassette and derailleur.

Then you also get the new 2x10 - those do have a slightly different spacing on the crankset, and use a different shifter/derailleur.

Confused?

As I just stated, that raceface deus crankset will work for ya - I have been using one in a series of configurations with no issues.

Have Fun!


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

For a real fun time, read the thread on crankset 9vs10sp compatibility in the drivetrain forum:

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...atability-9-speed-shimano-systems-646014.html


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## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

Ok great, thanks so much for the information. The '10 spd' RaceFace Duece will work just fine on my 8 spd cassette, makes perfect sense. 

If you have been running that crankset can you offer any insight as to its performance/weight? If it really retails for $400 and it is 70% off that seems too good to be true.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Pretty sure raceface has discontinued the deus lineup for 2012 which is why the discounted price. I do not see it on their website currently.

For the $100 it is a great price - is a fairly light (not XTR light) and was very durable. RaceFace rings are excellent. Only issue I had with it was the bearings in the bb which offed themselves within 6 months riding. I replaced them with a set from enduro and they have been perfect for a few years now.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Have you just gone into the shop and ask what they recommend?


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

coling said:


> BlueSkyCycling.com - Race Face Deus X-Type Crankset w/ Bottom Bracket
> 
> Can anyone advise if this will work on my bike? seems like a great deal..


That's a pretty good deal on a good crankset.

-S


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

OP, read this.
Bottom bracket - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I'm pretty confident that you have a 68 mm English-threaded bottom bracket. What you need to know to know that a crank will bolt onto your bike is that it's for a bottom bracket that fits that. So, confirm that that's what you've got, and throw your money at a shiny new crank.


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## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

Performance Bike up the street has this Race Face Ride XC with the bottom bracket included for $84.99 and the head installer told me he knows it will fit and if for some strange reason it does not then there will be no charge (must say I have been very impressed with my local Performance Bike shop). I am thinking of having this put in. Thoughts?


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Sure, if you like.

No idea what the swing in weight will be. "Probably" better. I have a RaceFace ring in one position on one of my cranks and it shifts quite nicely. Don't know about longevity, it's not a bike I ride very often.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

The RF deus setup can be used on either 68/73 mm bb depending on spacers you use. He will not have any issues with that crankset on a 2013 giant frame.

Personally, for $15 more I would go for the RF deus, primarily because the rings that come with that crankset are of a much higher quality then the ride XC rings. 

But I am also perfectly comfortable installing my own BB/crankset.

Nothing wrong with the ride crankset, but remember that 4 years ago the deus was race faces top of the line XC race setup. Yes, the XC ride will have some trickle down tech, but at the end of the day it is not quite as nice a crankset. Will you notice the difference while riding.....probably not.


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## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

do you imagine the Deus is going to weigh even slightly less than the Ride? If I can shave a few more grams by spending another $15 I would rather do that.


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## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

nm, a little research answered that for me. the Ride comes in at 995g and the Deus at 855g. I think that settles that! 2 day air so should arrive Friday.


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

Get the Deus. It's made in Canada while the lower end ones (Ride, Evolve) are from Taiwan IIRC. The canadian-made RF cranksets (Deus, Turbine) come with the better quality "Turbine" chainrings. I'm not poo-pooing the cheaper cranksets (I use the Evolve XC on a couple of my bikes and love them).

I have used RF cranksets and love how easily they install. Spacers are always included in the RF BB's and all you do is mix/match them to get the size you want, and the cranks are also adjustable so that you can get an optimum chainline.

-S


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## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

shibiwan said:


> Get the Deus.
> -S


I did end up ordering the Deus set with 2 day air so I plan on it going in this weekend. I will make sure to post weight difference pics as well. I'm almost afraid to see what the Suntours weigh...


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

coling said:


> I did end up ordering the Deus set with 2 day air so I plan on it going in this weekend. I will make sure to post weight difference pics as well. I'm almost afraid to see what the Suntours weigh...


I dont wanna see wieghts....I wanna see the upgraded bike all muddy!


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## shibiwan (Sep 2, 2012)

coling said:


> I did end up ordering the Deus set with 2 day air so I plan on it going in this weekend. I will make sure to post weight difference pics as well. I'm almost afraid to see what the Suntours weigh...


Too bad you missed out on the X0 carbon cranksets (2x10) for $170 at Jenson. Picked up one of those for my main ride and they are wayyyy lighter than the 3x10 RF Evolve, and made things simpler with one less chainring (I'm running 11-36 rear so I figure I can get away with it).

-S


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## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

Received today, and it shows 859g. That is pretty darn close to advertised. Left at GHY Bikes in Renton for the install and should be ready for pickup after work. I will post the weight of the Suntour kit later this evening. Can't wait to feel the difference! Thanks again for everyone's input.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

coling said:


> Received today, and it shows 859g. That is pretty darn close to advertised. Left at GHY Bikes in Renton for the install and should be ready for pickup after work. I will post the weight of the Suntour kit later this evening. Can't wait to feel the difference! Thanks again for everyone's input.


would have weighed a bit less if you removed the plastic plug/plastic ties and removed a few of the stickers


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## coling (Jul 31, 2012)

saved a bunch of weight and it oedals extremely smooth. feels effortless, I can't tell if it is the weight difference or the bearings in the bottom bracket? Either way, thumbs way up.


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## Hoban (Oct 14, 2012)

Nice weight savings! They look good, too.


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## thegolffather (Mar 12, 2021)

coling said:


> I like the challenge of improving something. I also plan on taking many of the leftover parts and adding them to a cheap frame for neihborhoos SS.
> 
> That said, what are some good choices for a crankset replacement?


Same here, same bike my kids learned to bike on the Giant we had two sold one and now my wife rides the one we still have. Just trying to upgrade like a 1x10 drivetrain and a fork upgrade. I am trying to use as much parts I replaced on my Giant XTC Advance SL 1.


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