# What is Best Full Rigid Bike?



## Eturf (Feb 22, 2019)

Hello Group! Been away from trail riding for 20 years and am going to start as soon as I make decision on bike. All I can say is, "wow", bikes have really changed. Been researching bikes and demo riding as many as possible over last year. I do know this will be my starter bike and not last purchase. My goals are to fully hone my skills again, from my old bmx days, become skilled rider again then move on up to next bike. I know this will require many base miles, balance drills and other manuevers to acquire my skills again. My reason for full rigid is that, from experience I will become better at developing base skills, such as line choices, balance and moving in the cockpit without the assistance of mondern suspensions. I have riden the Pine mountain and Karate monkey. Will be trying a Kona soon. I am curious to know what the group feels in best rigid bike? 
Thanks


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

The Karate Monkey (in 29er mode) and Surly Krampus would be high on my list. Steel frame for sure. 

What's the budget? With a little more money you could look for a higher end steel frame or even Ti.


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## MOJO K (Jan 26, 2007)

Best bike might be the one you find used that's the right size. You already know you're not making a long term commitment to the bike. Coming from a BMX background, you understand the learning process and you'll progress pretty quickly. I'd buy steel if I could, and I wouldn't rule out a hardtail if the right one came along. The idea of "absolute best" is completely subjective.


Best, K


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

I will throw the Knoa Unit to the mix. (Mine is geared)


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## Thor29 (May 12, 2005)

Surly Krampus.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

The one you ride regularly  Seriously, if you're going to use this as a stepping stone, then agree with the above, find a nice used Monkey or Unit and you should be happy. As someone who owns both a 2009 Monkey and one of the new Units, I'd definitely, highly rec either.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

"Hone your skills" on the rigid bike, then just keep riding the rigid bike.


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

the Surly Krampus is like a bigger BMX!! One of the many reasons I bought it. The Krampus can be multiple bikes in one..the other BIG reason I bought it. I was like you...grew up on a BMX in the 70's and 80's, got into MTB in college in the 90's, then took 20 years off due to lame excuses etc....got back into it about 7 years ago. Did some shopping, and went on the Krampus (after test riding the Salsa Fargo, Trek Stache and Surly ECR). Getting back into riding, my main focus was/is singletrack riding, winter/snow riding as well as bike packing/ touring. The Krampus was the perfect bike for doing all of those!!

I got mine in 2015 during the "fire sale" of the OG (Moonlit Swamp) version, when they were moving to the newer version and freaking love it. Other than my original 1981 Mongoose Supergoose, this has been the best bike I have ever owned!! 

DEFINITELY test ride as many as you can, and choose for how it feels and fits you. All of the models suggested above are not going to be a bad choice...but they aren't the Krampus 

also, look to get another BMX if you still don't have one!! I still ride that as well, and while I don't do half of the stupid stuff I used to, I still get some kicks trying moderatley stupid things, and it does help tie in some overall skills. Hell, I even ride the Krampus at the skatepark sometimes...


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## 786737 (Mar 13, 2015)

Redline Monocog (I have a 2008)
On-One Inbred

Not necessarily "the best" but they are 2 others to keep an eye out for if you're buying used.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

I've given this a fair amount of thought. A rigid bike is fairly liberating. Unless trails are buffed out you are not going to be nearly as fast as on a lightweight carbon squish. So, you are free'd from worrying about things like weight. You can commit to a sturdy steel frame, like a KM. You can do things like run fenders to minimize wet butt. Use that old, but heavy crankset collecting dust on the shelf. With the right frame, like a KM, you could even SS it, and gear low, if needed.

Way back when I use to ride and race SS and ran rigid - in the 26" days. My SS racing days are done. So I've thought about build up a full rigid myself. Seems something like a 2.4" out back with a 29x3" up front would be nice. Thoughts?


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Miker J said:


> So I've thought about build up a full rigid myself. Seems something like a 2.4" out back with a 29x3" up front would be nice. Thoughts?


Uh, Yeah! Big 2.4's on wide rims are great, but 3.0's are more fun (depending). Either way it's good fun, a challenge, and something different. More like a big kids BMX.

Do it! Cheap laughs, low maintenance, etc. Mostly for me it's just fun.


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Uh, Yeah! Big 2.4's on wide rims are great, but 3.0's are more fun (depending). Either way it's good fun, a challenge, and something different. More like a big kids BMX.
> 
> Do it! Cheap laughs, low maintenance, etc. Mostly for me it's just fun.


all of this!!! FTW


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## bingemtbr (Apr 1, 2004)

The 2 full rigid bikes in my stable are a Specialized Fatboy and a Bianchi MUSS (Single Speed). 

I selected the Fatboy due to its geometry mimicking my trail bike's geometry--more racing and less touring.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

2.4" is no where near 3", not even close in any way, shape or form - _less grip, less cush, less roll over._ Not sure how old you are, but honestly, do yourself a favour and try to get something that will fit a 29x2.8" at least. I've done the miss matched 29x2.4" rear/29x3.0" front, and B+ 2.8" rear/29x3.0" and while it works, it doesn't hold a candle to 29x3" F&R like I have now on my Unit.



Miker J said:


> I've given this a fair amount of thought. A rigid bike is fairly liberating. Unless trails are buffed out you are not going to be nearly as fast as on a lightweight carbon squish. So, you are free'd from worrying about things like weight. You can commit to a sturdy steel frame, like a KM. You can do things like run fenders to minimize wet butt. Use that old, but heavy crankset collecting dust on the shelf. With the right frame, like a KM, you could even SS it, and gear low, if needed.
> 
> Way back when I use to ride and race SS and ran rigid - in the 26" days. My SS racing days are done. So I've thought about build up a full rigid myself. Seems something like a 2.4" out back with a 29x3" up front would be nice. Thoughts?


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

LyNx said:


> 2.4" is no where near 3", not even close in any way, shape or form - _less grip, less cush, less roll over._ Not sure how old you are, but honestly, do yourself a favour and try to get something that will fit a 29x2.8" at least. I've done the miss matched 29x2.4" rear/29x3.0" front, and B+ 2.8" rear/29x3.0" and while it works, it doesn't hold a candle to 29x3" F&R like I have now on my Unit.


See this man speaks the truth, 29 x 3.0 is a whole world away than 29 x 2.4, even 2.6! I'm finally beginning to gel with the rigid aspect of my latest build, just the SS aspect I've got to get along with now...

Anyway, I digress. The question in the title of this thread got me wondering, has anyone compared a Jones Spaceframe (touted as the most squishy rigid bike) to something like a fully rigid steel bike? Is it night and day, or much of a muchness?


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## rockcrusher (Aug 28, 2003)

I would argue you should also check out what Jones offers. There are plus bikes, titanium, steel, and crazy good rigid bikes. I have an older Jones as my only bike. I use a fat front some times if I want to have a little cush, otherwise just a 29er build. One of the best bikes I have ever owned.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Just J said:


> The question in the title of this thread got me wondering, has anyone compared a Jones Spaceframe (touted as the most squishy rigid bike) to something like a fully rigid steel bike? Is it night and day, or much of a muchness?


Thanks for that, I just went down a serious Jones Rabbit Hole (AKA JRH). I've always loved truss forks and would love to own one some day.

I've not ridden a Jones but as I'm forever curious about bike geometry it is such an odd duck I can't get my head around it. Long ass chainstays, short reach, and a 76mm offset fork?!?! You lost me a long chainstays.

Seriously though it looks fun, in a perplexing way. I bet it rides nice, I love the video showing the compliance of the frame. I just want to test ride one on some semi technical/aggressive terrain to see if it shines or causes me to want to leave it on the side of the trail and walk back to the parking lot?

Anyone got one in XL I can borrow?

I like that the Jones frames aren't suspension corrected (always wanted one, don't know why), but that pretty much means that I can't try the truss fork on my Krampus. Boo.

Frame aside I love the functionality of the truss fork. I'd totally get a custom one made if it weren't so expensive.


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## rockcrusher (Aug 28, 2003)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Thanks for that, I just went down a serious Jones Rabbit Hole (AKA JRH). I've always loved truss forks and would love to own one some day.
> 
> I've not ridden a Jones but as I'm forever curious about bike geometry it is such an odd duck I can't get my head around it. Long ass chainstays, short reach, and a 76mm offset fork?!?! You lost me a long chainstays.
> 
> ...


I don't have the spaceframe so can't comment there but the truss fork is insanely rigid. Tracks ever so well and never a brake shudder. Can be tough on one's hands and forearms but that the geometry is pretty damn good at being all about precision so you can pick your way around the gnarly bits.

I was tempted to get the spaceframe but Jeff essentially told me that in the steel version the spaceframe has very little deflection and you are essentially paying for the look vs. the compliance that the Ti frame has. If you want compliance get the Ti version if you pocket allows it. You can match that with the steel fork so you can save some scratch there.

If you are in the PNW there are 2 people in Seattle with Jones that I know of. I have the older pre-sized Steel diamond with a truss fork and I know another user here has a diamond mono fork + version as I have seen it on the back of his car before.


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## milehi (Nov 2, 1997)

The best riding rigid frame is going to be a custom frame. I've owned a lot of bikes with top shelf tubing and didn't know what I was missing until I got a custom frame. The mass produced frames felt dead compared to the springiness of the custom frame. I'm only speaking of steel but I've owned Gucci Ti that didn't feel as good as custom steel.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

rockcrusher said:


> I don't have the spaceframe so can't comment there but the truss fork is insanely rigid. Tracks ever so well and never a brake shudder. Can be tough on one's hands and forearms but that the geometry is pretty damn good at being all about precision so you can pick your way around the gnarly bits.
> 
> I was tempted to get the spaceframe but Jeff essentially told me that in the steel version the spaceframe has very little deflection and you are essentially paying for the look vs. the compliance that the Ti frame has. If you want compliance get the Ti version if you pocket allows it. You can match that with the steel fork so you can save some scratch there.
> 
> If you are in the PNW there are 2 people in Seattle with Jones that I know of. I have the older pre-sized Steel diamond with a truss fork and I know another user here has a diamond mono fork + version as I have seen it on the back of his car before.


Interesting. I'm familiar with the need for "soft hands" on choppy terrain. If I go too fast on certain trial networks I'm pretty well shot in only 2 hours.

Surprising that he said the steel version isn't compliant? Quite surprising. Think he was just trying to up-sell the more expensive frame?

Thanks anyway but I'm in NY.

My other problem is that I'm really happy with my current bike. It's a custom steel frame and carbon fork, with 2.35/2.6 tires, set up SS. I ride the **** out of that thing, and it's my main race bike too (but not for endurance). I'm not curious enough about Jones geo to dive in with both feet, I've got the steel hardtails pretty well covered with 3 (technically 4 if you count the 26" DJer) and a 4th on the way. One more would be silly... or would it?


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## rockcrusher (Aug 28, 2003)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Interesting. I'm familiar with the need for "soft hands" on choppy terrain. If I go too fast on certain trial networks I'm pretty well shot in only 2 hours.
> 
> Surprising that he said the steel version isn't compliant? Quite surprising. Think he was just trying to up-sell the more expensive frame?
> 
> ...


n+1 man, n+1.


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## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

The specialized crave SL was a great rigid for the price. I would look for a used one


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## 1991MB5 (Nov 12, 2018)

*My best rigid bike*

This is the best one I've had so far. I f I had to do it over again though I'd build a 29er and get the wheelbase up to about 1160 mm.


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## lotusoperandi (Aug 24, 2010)

Why Cycles Wayward V2.

I also have a Surly Krampus. Both are run fully rigid. The Wayward has that Ti "spring" to it. Reminds me of my old Reynolds 853 steel frame I once had. Can't go wrong with a Krampus either though, especially considering the price difference. The Wayward is my first Ti bike and I have to say I'm kind of loving it. The Krampus is like a Jeep, whereas the Wayward is like a finely tuned European race car. Now I'm curious about a custom high-end steel frame. Probably can't get to the same place as Ti concerning weight and "spring" but it might get close enough.


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## Fleas (Jan 19, 2006)

Can't believe I haven't seen this thread.

I replaced a 2013 Canfield Nimble 9 with a 2018 Canfield Nimble 9 and I think I am finally 100% dialed!

The '13 was too stiff to run rigid. The '18 has that real steel feel. I actually don't have a pic of it in its current configuration, but it's like this, with a dropper added, red seat post QR, and a red saddle:









If you get one made after 2018, you may have trouble finding a rigid fork long enough to get proper steering geo.

-F


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