# Soma Wolverine Builds



## emat (Oct 27, 2011)

It's taken many months more than I had expected, but it's finally finished. Firstly, if you're dismayed I didn't keep the frame orange (like so many other new bikes this fall), I don't care. I wanted mine blue. It's been powder coated with RAL 5003 if anyone wants to know. 

It rides great. It's feels lighter and more lively than the cross check I previously owned. This is a 54cm frame. Some components include 11 speed 105 drivetrain. TRP HY/RD disc brakes. The wheels are made up of King R45 hubs in pewter, velocity Blunt SL rims, and 38mm Compass Barlow Pass tires. I've got it set up for commuting in a wet weather and thankfully, the rack and fender struts all fit together without a hitch over the brakes. I've still got to fine tune that fender line, but it's functional for now.


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## emat (Oct 27, 2011)

Of interest to anyone planning to use fenders on this frame with an 11 speed 105 FD is that the derailleur arm came into contact with the fender with the chain in the big ring. These a 51mm fluted VO fenders, but I'm not sure it would be any different with a smaller width. Decided to solve this problem by banging a dent into the fender. The dent comes nowhere near the tire and unless you'r looking for it you can barely notice it.


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## my2hands (Nov 3, 2010)

Blue looks good. Mine is still on the boat...should be here in a couple of weeks. I'm thinking I might repaint mine as well. I really like the orange, but I have a set of S&S couplers Ill be brazing on so I'll have to sand some paint off anyway. I have laced up a Rohloff disc and Son 28 disc to DT Swiss TK 540's running Schwalbe Big Bens. Drops with the Giles Rohloff shifter and TRP HY/RD. I'll post pics of the build when the frame comes in. 

I'm coming from a new Salsa Fargo (blue). I like it with WTB drops, but climbing is a PIA. Most of my commute is hilly so I'm hoping the wolverine geo will help with that.

Thanks for starting this post BTW.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

That blue looks phenomenal! I won't be refinishing my bike any time soon, but one day the finish will be worn enough to necessitate it. I'll go crazy at that time.

If I ever get any half decent photos of my Wolverine in it's current arrangement, I'll make sure to post them here.


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## my2hands (Nov 3, 2010)

*Rohloff and Schmidt SON Wheel set for Wolverine*

I built the Rohloff wheel today...still waiting on the frame to arrive. The Schmidt is still on my Fargo.


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## my2hands (Nov 3, 2010)

emat said:


> It's taken many months more than I had expected, but it's finally finished. Firstly, if you're dismayed I didn't keep the frame orange (like so many other new bikes this fall), I don't care. I wanted mine blue. It's been powder coated with RAL 5003 if anyone wants to know.
> 
> It rides great. It's feels lighter and more lively than the cross check I previously owned. This is a 54cm frame. Some components include 11 speed 105 drivetrain. TRP HY/RD disc brakes. The wheels are made up of King R45 hubs in pewter, velocity Blunt SL rims, and 38mm Compass Barlow Pass tires. I've got it set up for commuting in a wet weather and thankfully, the rack and fender struts all fit together without a hitch over the brakes. I've still got to fine tune that fender line, but it's functional for now.


Nice touch with the blue headset spacer BTW. I like to add an off color spacer as well but never been able to match up the color as well as you have.


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## emat (Oct 27, 2011)

Thanks @my2hands. Choosing a color for this frame was actually the last thing I did and easily the hardest decision, fortunately it worked out ok. My only small regret is how dark that 105 crank is. 
I'm looking forward to seeing how your Rolloff build comes together.


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## mojak (Sep 27, 2005)

Hi, may i know what is your height to go with the 54cm wolv? I am scouring the net trying to see what size I shld go with. Thanks


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## emat (Oct 27, 2011)

mojak said:


> Hi, may i know what is your height to go with the 54cm wolv? I am scouring the net trying to see what size I shld go with. Thanks


5'9". Has Soma released a new batch of frames yet? It was limited run the first time around.


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## mojak (Sep 27, 2005)

emat said:


> 5'9". Has Soma released a new batch of frames yet? It was limited run the first time around.


Im not sure though, just asking coz contemplating between this or the all city macho disc..

I would prefer the taller ht of the 54 but am afraid it will be too long on the ett at 565mm..all city have a 130mm ht on a 550mm ett..im 5"8' btw.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

The frames are done... and sitting in a harbor waiting to be offloaded. But the Longshoreman are holding things up until they get a raise.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I'm really debating a carbon fork lately. I want to build something roadie-er.not sure if I should do it on the Wolverine or just build a second bike.


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## Glynis27 (Sep 28, 2007)

What size frame are the 6 foot riders usually going with for drop-bar use on this bike?


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Golden Saddle Rides: The SOMA Electric Wolverine Turn On Your Bike - The Radavist


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## emat (Oct 27, 2011)

I've now had a few months on the bike, enough time to get a feel for it I think. I most certainly like this frame more than the Surly Cross Check I had before, but so many components are different between the bikes it's not exactly a fair comparison. It's stable, snappy and accelerates well enough for me without feeling like I'm losing all the power into a flexing of the frame.

I'm indifferent about the 11 speed 105 group, 50-34 / 11-32. It feels fine enough but I can't say it offers me any advantage over a 9 or a 10 speed. On this bike I really wish it had one bigger bail out gear in the back for loaded climbs. Hopefully one day I'll find a solution for this without having to change too many of the components. 

As mentioned in my first post, I'm using TRP HY/RD disc brakes. They have plenty of stopping power and the levers have a great feel unfortunately they have a higher frequency pulsing or vibration that hasn't improved with use. I haven't figured out whether it's a product of the frame/fork, rotor, pads, or a combination of the above. It comes from both the front and rear so I don't think it's due to the fork. Any one else have this problem?


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## zcmack (Apr 19, 2012)

i appreciate the feedback on the bike as i'm patiently awaiting my frameset. i planned to do 11 speed 105 with a 46/36t up front. it seems like it'd be slightly better for the scenario you're describing but i can't help but second guess adopting 11 speed. 11 speed disc hubs with 135 spacing aren't nearly as prevalent as 9/10 so that comes at a premium.


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## doismellbacon (Sep 20, 2007)

Hey emat, can you tell me what your seat height is in those pictures? BB center to top of saddle?


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## dsjackson (Apr 5, 2014)

Anybody know when the next batch of 60cm will show up??


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## formula4speed (Mar 25, 2013)

Anyone know if the frame will clear a 29x2" tire? I've got my frame on order from my LBS, have a wheelset ready but haven't decided on what tires to run. Was thinking either a fast rolling 29x2" or something like the Surly Knard 700x41.


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## my2hands (Nov 3, 2010)

formula4speed said:


> Anyone know if the frame will clear a 29x2" tire? I've got my frame on order from my LBS, have a wheelset ready but haven't decided on what tires to run. Was thinking either a fast rolling 29x2" or something like the Surly Knard 700x41.


Yes, when I had my frame I built it up with Schwalbe Big Bens 29x2. They fit fine, but major wheel - toe overlap which may not be so much of a factor with a larger frame.


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## formula4speed (Mar 25, 2013)

Awesome, thank you. My rides tend to go something like: pavement, dirt road, pavement, singletrack, gravel, pavement then turn around and repeat. I don't think there is a "correct" tire.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Yeah, I'm running fat franks front and rear with room to spare. It's pretty great.


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## my2hands (Nov 3, 2010)

formula4speed said:


> Awesome, thank you. My rides tend to go something like: pavement, dirt road, pavement, singletrack, gravel, pavement then turn around and repeat. I don't think there is a "correct" tire.


I tried some WTB Nano's 2.2 but the knobbies rubbed the bottom of the fork crown, otherwise, they would of fit.

Ah...the endless quest for the perfect enduro tire. The Big Bens are almost perfect IMO except...except for one important element: they don't look the part!


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## LDX (Aug 6, 2015)

mojak said:


> Im not sure though, just asking coz contemplating between this or the all city macho disc..
> 
> I would prefer the taller ht of the 54 but am afraid it will be too long on the ett at 565mm..all city have a 130mm ht on a 550mm ett..im 5"8' btw.


Did you ever buy your Soma Wolverine? I'm also 5'8" and prefer to go with the largest frame possible. The ETT shouldn't be an issue for me as I plan to use moustache bars to keep upright. Suggestions?


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## tyriverag (Jan 22, 2014)

Question about buying a frame and building it up without riding it.

My Fuji Cross is a 54 (fits great), but the Wolverine ETT in size 52, is very close (2mm longer), and the only really (probably) noticeable difference in geo would be the seat tube (The Fuji is 2cm taller), and a few mms or half a degree here or there. 

How does that 2cm shorter seat tube on the Wolverine change the ride, or will it?


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## Glynis27 (Sep 28, 2007)

tyriverag said:


> Question about buying a frame and building it up without riding it.
> 
> How does that 2cm shorter seat tube on the Wolverine change the ride, or will it?


Seat tube length doesn't matter as long as it's not too long. You would just adjust the seatpost up or down to make up the difference. Ride characteristics shouldn't really be different.


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## tyriverag (Jan 22, 2014)

Thanks Glynis27, that's what I thought, but I am kind of a turd so I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.

Now I have to decide between drops or flats!


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## tyriverag (Jan 22, 2014)

For maximum versatility, I think I am going with either the Surly Knards or Soma Cazadero (that gumwall though). What width rim would you recommend, 23-27mm? I could throw a 2.1ish 29er tire on that rim then, right?


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## emat (Oct 27, 2011)

I just finished my first ride today with 41mm, 120tpi, Surly Knard's. Wow, I'm really impressed with the tire! I use a 25mm Velocity Blunt SL wheel.


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## somacisco (Aug 17, 2004)

Caz's come in blackwall too. Actually out of gumwall right now.


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## formula4speed (Mar 25, 2013)

Has anyone heard anything about the August shipment of frames? I ordered a frame a month ago and haven't heard anything. Have a trip coming up in September and would like to have mine built up and get a couple break in rides.


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## somacisco (Aug 17, 2004)

I would have your dealer check with their distributor. We've sent out over 200 frames to dealers and distributor in the last 30 days. We are caught up on backorders on almost everything except middle sizes placed less than 3 weeks ago. We expect to get another order in at Merry Sales next week, which should cover everyone's backorders.


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## formula4speed (Mar 25, 2013)

somacisco said:


> I would have your dealer check with their distributor. We've sent out over 200 frames to dealers and distributor in the last 30 days. We are caught up on backorders on almost everything except middle sizes placed less than 3 weeks ago. We expect to get another order in at Merry Sales next week, which should cover everyone's backorders.


Thanks for the reply. I ordered a 54cm on July 10th through my LBS, I was told it was backordered on the 16th so not sure which day the order went through. I'm told they'll be checking the status the next couple days, hopefully I'll be getting my Wolverine built up soon.

I made the mistake of selling my old bike too soon to pay for this one. I mistakenly thought the Wolverine was in stock last month, obviously my fault, but I'm dying a little inside with all these parts and no frame to put them on.


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## murphyo7 (Jul 26, 2009)

*New wolverine build*

Thanks to Soma love here and elsewhere, I recently pulled the trigger on a Wolverine. I was originally thinking Surly Straggler, but glad I ended up here. The dropouts are clean, the head tube is almost 2cm longer than a Straggler, and I wouldn't want anything heavier or stiffer. For what it's worth, I'm 6' with a 33" inseam and went with a 56cm frameset, 80mm stem, and 46cm bars. Cons: Short head tube, not so light, and moderately fragile paint. Pros: Versatile steel frame, orange, and fun! Despite the heft, it's surprisingly snappy on singletrack with dropouts in short mode. Right now it's built up in touring mode with front rack/panniers, Revelate frame and seat bags, and Clement Xplor 40mm tires. Thanks again for the positive reviews. Happy trails, roads, and everything in between!


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## formula4speed (Mar 25, 2013)

She's finally done.
2x1 Drivetrain (not a typo) with FSA Metropolis Internally Geared Crankset
WTB i19 Wheels with 700x41 Knards
Brooks Cambium C17 Saddle
BB7 Brakes
Sweet matching bar tape, wasn't sure if I would like it until I saw it on the bike, but I really think it looks cool.

Time to put some miles on it.


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## doismellbacon (Sep 20, 2007)

Awesome to see! I've got the exact same seat and orange lizard skin tape sitting in a box waiting for my frame to show. I wasn't sure about the orange tape either, but it looks great!


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## timothymc (Sep 20, 2007)

That's likely to be the frameset, specifically the front fork.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

What?


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## tmad (Sep 10, 2015)

Glynis27 said:


> What size frame are the 6 foot riders usually going with for drop-bar use on this bike?


I am 5'11 - 6' and I opted to ride a 56cm. I am running soma Clarence bars but wanted the ability to run drops for cx races. I'm also running a 110mm 10degree stem and a zero stack seat post. Having really long legs and next to no torso, I will say it's a tad on the tight side. But with a layback seat post and drop bars, it should fit my body perfectly. I also have size 9 feet and there isn't any toe overlap but it's close.

So if you have a longer torso or bigger feet, I would suggest a 58cm.


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## Glynis27 (Sep 28, 2007)

tmad said:


> I am 5'11 - 6' and I opted to ride a 56cm.


Thanks, but I ended up buying both a 54cm and a 56cm. Built the 54 first and it felt pretty good, but the reach was a bit shorter than I wanted for more aggressive riding. Could have tried it with a longer stem, but decided to just go with the 56 instead. I probably have just short of 2k miles on the 56 now and it's been great! Used it on a week-long tour last month and I was comfy the whole time. I have a 100mm 15degree stem, setback post and Cowbell bars.
Now I need to figure out what I'm gonna do with the 54.


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## trek4fun (Feb 3, 2015)

with 29er 2.1, is there room for fenders?


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## trek4fun (Feb 3, 2015)

tmad said:


> I am 5'11 - 6' and I opted to ride a 56cm. I am running soma Clarence bars but wanted the ability to run drops for cx races. I'm also running a 110mm 10degree stem and a zero stack seat post. Having really long legs and next to no torso, I will say it's a tad on the tight side. But with a layback seat post and drop bars, it should fit my body perfectly. I also have size 9 feet and there isn't any toe overlap but it's close.
> 
> So if you have a longer torso or bigger feet, I would suggest a 58cm.


I am thinking of getting a 56 or 58cm and I have a 32-inch inseam. Which one should I lean towards? No one close to me has one to test drive.


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## tmad (Sep 10, 2015)

trek4fun said:


> I am thinking of getting a 56 or 58cm and I have a 32-inch inseam. Which one should I lean towards? No one close to me has one to test drive.


My pant inseam is between 32-33" but my actual inseam (for cycling fit measurements) is around 35-36"

I would suggest that you figure out what kind of reach you want. For example, if I wanted a much faster road riding bike, i would have gone with a 58 and drop bars to lean forward more. But I'm really happy with my 56 and mustache bars for sitting upright and being nice and comfortable for commuting.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Images, woot.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

formula4speed said:


> She's finally done.
> 2x1 Drivetrain (not a typo) with FSA Metropolis Internally Geared Crankset
> WTB i19 Wheels with 700x41 Knards
> Brooks Cambium C17 Saddle
> ...


You mean put some smiles on. The metropolis stem is a nice alternative to a stack of spacers. Nice build hope you enjoy it.


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## aybee (Feb 2, 2014)

Just finished her up last night, and brought it with me in my commute. Set it up as a retro-ish MTB, although might switch to drops in the future. While waiting for the BB7 stoppers I slapped in extra XT hydraulic brakes from the bin - I was thinking that it would be out of place but upon installation it kinda works with the overall look.


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## trek4fun (Feb 3, 2015)

Nice ride! What size are your tires? Could you please provide a pic of the tire clearance? I am about to start one that I am building up as a monster-cross. 
Cheers!


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## aybee (Feb 2, 2014)

29x2.1 with the dropouts pulled all the way backwards. 2.2 tires might also fit, but at the front it will be tight. Good luck on the build!


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## trek4fun (Feb 3, 2015)

nice, Thanks!


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## tmad (Sep 10, 2015)

Aybee. This.... Is awesome!


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I've been looking for a set of knobbies to try on the Wolverine. And those look perfect!


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## tmad (Sep 10, 2015)

Sooo... rear racks are harder to fit on this frame than I thought they would :madman:
Can anybody shed some light onto which rear racks that for sure?? I would like to do some touring so racks that have a >45 lb rating would be ideal. 

Thanks in advance!


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## doismellbacon (Sep 20, 2007)

Out for a spin w/ Nano 40's








The BS (Barton Springs) kit. Mat, towel, trunks, goggles, and 2x cold beers on 29x2.0 Race Kings for rolling down the Greenbelt to go swimming.








Slaying some local singletrack.








Bike packing rig...back on 700x40 Nano's with Revelate & Blackburn bags carrying food for 2.5 days / 2 nights, cookware, stove & fuel, H20 filter, hammock, light sleeping bag, and large HydroFlask for keeping beer acquired at breweries along the way ice cold.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

tmad said:


> Sooo... rear racks are harder to fit on this frame than I thought they would :madman:
> Can anybody shed some light onto which rear racks that for sure?? I would like to do some touring so racks that have a >45 lb rating would be ideal.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Regular rear racks have no issue fitting on mine. Currently have some Bontrager rack on mine.


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## tmad (Sep 10, 2015)

Agwan said:


> Regular rear racks have no issue fitting on mine. Currently have some Bontrager rack on mine.


I found that the Bontrager disk rack works, however I was hoping to find a rack with an additional bar that sweeps back to prevent the panniers from interfering with the spokes.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I'm using the non disc rack. The larger of the two. Do you have fenders to deal with? Because i just had to bend the rack a tiny bit and I was fine. 

Oh! I also have hydros. Those things are very low profile. What brakes are you running?


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## tmad (Sep 10, 2015)

Agwan said:


> I'm using the non disc rack. The larger of the two. Do you have fenders to deal with? Because i just had to bend the rack a tiny bit and I was fine.
> 
> Oh! I also have hydros. Those things are very low profile. What brakes are you running?


Bingo! I'm running BB7's as well as SKS Chromoplastic Longboards. My ultimate goal is to have a commuter/light-duty touring bike. Most every rack has interferred with the BB7's pad reach adjuster or the barrel adjuster.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Yeah, I got rid of my last pair of BB7s in 2013. those things were the best when they came out. but now the only Mechanical I'd run is Spyre. just about the same power as a BB7, but lower profile AND easier adjustments. 

flat bar Hydraulics are just so affordable these days, and I got the hook up on my NOT affordable drop bar hydro's. makes it a non issue.


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)

just discovered this thread....here's mine.


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## doismellbacon (Sep 20, 2007)

johnny the boy said:


> just discovered this thread....here's mine.


NOICE! Dig the rasta headset spacers... and the saddle choice.... and the proper barcon shifters.


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)

fwiw i'm 6' tall (long torso) and the 56cm fits me like a glove. 
110mm -7deg stem, 44cm cowbells and a zero setback post. 78cm saddle height for reference.
(this pic was with shimano 6800)..have since "downgraded" to 10sp deore w/ bar end shifters and a triple crank.


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## doismellbacon (Sep 20, 2007)

HA! We have the same taste in many things, apparently. I have the same Revelate seat bag. Our cockpit reach is the same too. I'm also on a 56, with a 20mm shorter stem and cowchippers that have 20mm longer reach...so about the same. I'm 5'11" with a 75cm seat height and 175 cranks.


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)

I was just in Austin this past weekend too! haha!!


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## doismellbacon (Sep 20, 2007)

What tires are those in the pictures? 2.1 Nano's? The 40's have blown me away how good they are, which has made me think the 2.1's would be awesome for chunkier days. I really love the Conti Race King 2.0's on here too. The "Pure Grip" version of them is not available in the states that I'm aware of, for some reason, but I've been ordering them from Wiggle UK for $31 a piece and they're badass.


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)

yeah...they're 2.1 nanos...they're my everyday tire.


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## Saul Lumikko (Oct 23, 2012)

Here's mine in progress.


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)

just got these today..!!


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## treharne (Nov 27, 2014)

What kind of weights are people getting on their final builds?
Also, anyone know the weight (approx) of the frame and fork?
Thanks


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Approximate weight is roughly 7 pounds. My wolverine currently sits at 33 pounds with bag and lights. With my chukker wheels the lightest I've gotten is 26. With carbon wheels and a few other bits I could easily hit 24, 23ish.


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## Saul Lumikko (Oct 23, 2012)

Johnny, Sugino XD? Good choice!


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## treharne (Nov 27, 2014)

That seems pretty reasonable.


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)

Saul Lumikko said:


> Johnny, Sugino XD? Good choice!


yup! w/ 36t wolf tooth ring. 
11-34 cassette right now...will go to the sunrace 11-40 (maybe 42) in a little bit. 
LOVING the 1x so far on this bike...!!


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)




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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

That seals it, I'm changing the color of my Wolverine.


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)

Agwan said:


> That seals it, I'm changing the color of my Wolverine.


I didn't change the color....I removed it!! haha


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Looks good!


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## treharne (Nov 27, 2014)

Is there clearcoat on the metal?

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)

nope. just raw steel. t9 on the inside of the tubes and I wiped down the outside with linseed oil.


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)

oh, and those are wtb nine line 2.25s in the pic


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## BigBo (Oct 4, 2010)

I am 6 1.5". I'm wondering whether to get the 58 or 60cm. I ride a 60cm surly long haul trucker with 42c tires and it is a little tight but OK with standover but I'm streched out. But with this you want a little more upright vs. stretched out right? And may have bigger tires on Wolverine too.

Only problem is moving from the 58 to 60 is only an increase in Toptube of 13mm. BUT moving from 58 to 60 is an increase in 29mm of stack. 

Looking again the geometry looks eerily similar to the LHT other than shorter chainstays and higher bb height.


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)

I'd go 58.....


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## MindEyeSight (Nov 19, 2013)

I'm 6' 2" and I've had a 58cm LHT, 58cm Double Cross Disc, and 58cm Wolverine. I always felt a bit stretched out on the LHT with the stock stem. I ran a 90cm 107degree stem on the DCD with 50mm of spacers, and that was comfy for me. I am currently running the same stem and spacer height on the Wolverine and that is a good fit for me. I like to be fairly upright on my drop bar bikes, but 95% of my riding is commuting in an urban environment and touring. Everyone's proportions are different though; that was just my experience.


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## doismellbacon (Sep 20, 2007)

Yeah, I'd say 58 also...you could make a 60 work but 58 seems like a more dialed fit.


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## BigBo (Oct 4, 2010)

Thanks. One more question for my feeble mind. How is it possible the LHT and Wolverine have the same exact same geo (Aside from chainstay length and bb height) and have the same standover while the wolverine has 8mm less bb drop. All things the same I would assume an 8mm difference in the seat tube or that 8mm made up in the standover difference. What am I missing here?

Can anyone with a 58cm measure your standover and report back. Also include tire size if you don't mind.

Thanks


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## MindEyeSight (Nov 19, 2013)

The 58cm stand over is ~82cm on a 35mm tire.


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## doismellbacon (Sep 20, 2007)

Could be that standover measurements are inconsistent from brand to brand depending upon what spot on the top tube they're measuring to.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

*And the new color is...*

...matte black?









Not sure how I feel about that. I work for a Specialized dealer, so I'm kind of sick of seeing flat black paint jobs all day long.

I was considering a second Wolverine once the new colorway came out. Now... I'll have to wait and see.


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## Saul Lumikko (Oct 23, 2012)

Still working on it, but making progress:











BigBo said:


> How is it possible the LHT and Wolverine have the same exact same geo (Aside from chainstay length and bb height) and have the same standover while the wolverine has 8mm less bb drop. All things the same I would assume an 8mm difference in the seat tube or that 8mm made up in the standover difference. What am I missing here?


Headtube length is different. Also only the seat tube C-T is the same - doesn't mean the top tube is welded on the same exact spots on the seat tube and headtube. The vertical position of the top tube could vary without changing anything else in the geo.


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)

Saul Lumikko said:


>


i don't quite get this...i've got my rear brake housing routed to the other side of the headtube...and the side that the braze-on is on....


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## doismellbacon (Sep 20, 2007)

Looks like he's running his brakes Moto style


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)

doismellbacon said:


> Looks like he's running his brakes Moto style


ah yes..you could be right!


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## Saul Lumikko (Oct 23, 2012)

Yup, right lever for the front brake.


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## kyttyra (Mar 8, 2012)

My 60 cm Soma Wolverine (I'm 191 cm/6" 3"). If anyone is interested, the bike weighs in at 12.2 kg/26.9 lbs. Not too bad considering that it has no lightweight parts (well the cranks and pedals are relatively light, but not WW stuff imo).

Cockpit: Ritchey seatpost/Ergon saddle; some cheap 110 mm Funn stem and 46 cm Ritchey Evomax bars with Lizard skin tape. Brake levers are Sram Rivals.
Drivetrain: Sram Force w/42T chainring, Shimano A600 pedals, 11-42 Sunrace cassette and a Rival derailleur. 
Wheels: Easton Arc 24 rims with Hope Pro 4 and Shutter Precision hubs. Tyres are 1.75" Vee Rubber Rails, set up tubeless.
Other parts: B&M Lumoteq IQ etc. 80 lux front light, SKS fenders, mount for Ortlieb 6 l handlebar bag.










I'm quite happy with it 

It still needs mudflaps, and at some point lowrider racks (or perhaps a rear rack if there's enough heel clearance with bags). Maybe a dynamo-operated rear light too.


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)




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## ADV (Jun 7, 2009)

just ordered my frame Tuesday hope to see it in a week or so. 5'8" and went with the 52 should be a good fit. had a 54 Raleigh furley that i really liked but having clearance for a 2.0 tire and sliders i and to pick up a wolverine.

My build will be. Thomson stem and seat post, salsa cow bell bars, sun ringle charger pro 29er wheels ( need to find some road wheels yet), bb7 brakes, white industries double double crank, chris king headset. 

I will put pictures up once I get it all built


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

BB7's are really over-rated at this point. there are a lot of better, comparably priced options now. If a mechanical disc must be used, I'd strongly vote for the Spyres.

If sticking with the BB7s, the rotors are garbage and the pads are meh. Shimano rotors and EBC gold pads really make a huge difference.

Also, Don't run the Thomson Clamp. The seatpost is good stuff, but that clamp is prone to slipping, and many people crack it because they over torque it, because it slips.

Love the White Industries crank, White is now working on a more modern axle system for it. That I am drooling over and I hope it comes out soon.

NAHBS 2016 - White Industries adds 30mm spindle cranksets, shows the original wide range cassette & more! - Bikerumor


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## gsteitz (Sep 9, 2011)

johnny the boy said:


>


Well gosh darn it if that thing ain't a beaut!!!!


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## aybee (Feb 2, 2014)

From flat bar to drops!



















The nitto jitensha bars were great for commuting but multiple hand positions were limited. Used to run nitto randonnuers on my LHT and loved it, so I'm using it here.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## thatmaceguy (Dec 7, 2014)

Finally took a half decent pic of mine. Picked it up from the shop about a month ago. Love this bike.


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## aybee (Feb 2, 2014)

johnny the boy said:


>


Love the skinwalls!!! Clearance pics please front and back? I'm running archetypes as well so might work for my setup. Thanks


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Here it is, finally got the drivetrain bits sorted. Loving the front shifting with the CX70 fd and 6800 crankset. Love the floaty ride with 35c WTB Cross Boss tubeless tires. Love the orange!


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## Boomchakabowwow (Sep 8, 2015)

What handlebar is on the first post? Blue bike.


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## zmjones (Sep 9, 2015)

SpeedyStein said:


> Here it is, finally got the drivetrain bits sorted. Loving the front shifting with the CX70 fd and 6800 crankset. Love the floaty ride with 35c WTB Cross Boss tubeless tires. Love the orange!


what rd/cassette is that?


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

zmjones said:


> what rd/cassette is that?


That's an XT 11-36 10s cassette and an SLX Shadow 9 speed, M662 rd. Gotta get those low gears somehow, and this seemed like the easiest way without putting an MTB crank and losing my upper end. Crank is a 46/36, which isn't a very wide split, but it shifts so smoothly, and I can motor along in the 46t without going down to the 36 very often, only for the steep stuff. That rd can probably handle a much larger cog too, so I've been toying with the idea of grabbing a 40t cog to throw on and see how it goes, but I'm not wild about creating a huge jump in the middle of my cassette either. Kinda wishing I had gone 11 speed now, maybe after my upcoming deployment.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Here it is as of right now... I swapped the stem for a much lower angle, and got the Ritchey Contrail saddle to match the rest of the cockpit - very comfy saddle, BTW.


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## zmjones (Sep 9, 2015)

SpeedyStein said:


> That's an XT 11-36 10s cassette and an SLX Shadow 9 speed, M662 rd. Gotta get those low gears somehow, and this seemed like the easiest way without putting an MTB crank and losing my upper end. Crank is a 46/36, which isn't a very wide split, but it shifts so smoothly, and I can motor along in the 46t without going down to the 36 very often, only for the steep stuff. That rd can probably handle a much larger cog too, so I've been toying with the idea of grabbing a 40t cog to throw on and see how it goes, but I'm not wild about creating a huge jump in the middle of my cassette either. Kinda wishing I had gone 11 speed now, maybe after my upcoming deployment.


yea i did a xt 11-40 cassette with a 105 5800 gs rd with a road link and a 46-36 crankset. i would recommend the cage hack or the tampan pulley adjustor over this though, as the rd is slightly over capacity and the chain slack is noticeable sometimes.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Yes, I didn't know about the tampan when I was sourcing parts for this build... I guess I didn't do my homework well enough. Do you like the 46/36 with an 11-40? I'm planning on throwing some 2.1s on before long, and I think the extra low cog would be kinda nice with more rubber.


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## zmjones (Sep 9, 2015)

SpeedyStein said:


> Yes, I didn't know about the tampan when I was sourcing parts for this build... I guess I didn't do my homework well enough. Do you like the 46/36 with an 11-40? I'm planning on throwing some 2.1s on before long, and I think the extra low cog would be kinda nice with more rubber.


yea it is nice. i never bottom out anymore.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

zmjones said:


> the chain slack is noticeable sometimes.


Have you noticed a lot of chain slap on your frame? I'm well within the range of the SLX rd, and sized my chain shorter than almost every guide out there - around the big rings, add one whole link, but I only added a half link, and still get a ton of chain slap. I think the sliding dropouts put the chain closer to the stay since they sit a little lower than a traditional dropout would.

For reference, I had this exact same setup on my last cross/adventure bike, and got almost zero chain slap, same trails and riding techniques.


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## zmjones (Sep 9, 2015)

SpeedyStein said:


> Have you noticed a lot of chain slap on your frame? I'm well within the range of the SLX rd, and sized my chain shorter than almost every guide out there - around the big rings, add one whole link, but I only added a half link, and still get a ton of chain slap. I think the sliding dropouts put the chain closer to the stay since they sit a little lower than a traditional dropout would.
> 
> For reference, I had this exact same setup on my last cross/adventure bike, and got almost zero chain slap, same trails and riding techniques.


hmmm no. for reference i have a salsa vaya. this is more about the capacity of the rd. since it is actually a bit above capacity the chain is more slack in some combinations that would be ideal, which makes it easier to drop the chain.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

zmjones said:


> hmmm no. for reference i have a salsa vaya. this is more about the capacity of the rd. since it is actually a bit above capacity the chain is more slack in some combinations that would be ideal, which makes it easier to drop the chain.


Ahhh, yeah, on the Wolverine the drop outs put the upper run of chain only an inch or so above the stay, and the bend in the stay is pretty sharp, right in the middle of the stay, so any bounce in the derailleur creates chain slap. Definitely gonna switch to a clutch rd to help with this!


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## al8565 (Jan 5, 2010)

Any 6ft 5" riders out there on a Wolverine? I've got an XXL Specialized Camber, so was thinking a 60cm Wolverine would be about right. Any thoughts? Thanks..


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## WarPigs (Dec 21, 2005)

al8565 said:


> Any 6ft 5" riders out there on a Wolverine? I've got an XXL Specialized Camber, so was thinking a 60cm Wolverine would be about right. Any thoughts? Thanks..[/QUOT
> 
> should try 62, the largest.


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

Why is that seat stay held together wth screws?


Saul Lumikko said:


> Still working on it, but making progress:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

lighty said:


> Why is that seat stay held together wth screws?


The split stay allows for a belt drive system - would be pretty cool as part of an IGH build.


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## c0vrtn3y (Jul 27, 2015)

the sliding dropouts are a massive pain in the ass. soma blows off any questions i send them about it. the bike feels great... but im always hesitant to ride it and may just get rid of it. never had such a persistent pain in the ass bike in my life.


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## thatmaceguy (Dec 7, 2014)

So this is coming along nicely. Really digging the Soma Cazadero.


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## hjulier (Jan 1, 2008)

Greetings fellow wolverine riders.

Just finished a Wolverine build here in Brooklyn - a matte black 62. Will take photos tomorrow and post!


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## grubetown (Sep 22, 2013)

Check out the sweet builds on this Instagram
http://instagram.com/morgman


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

c0vrtn3y said:


> the sliding dropouts are a massive pain in the ass. soma blows off any questions i send them about it. the bike feels great... but im always hesitant to ride it and may just get rid of it. never had such a persistent pain in the ass bike in my life.


If the sliding drop outs are a pain, then you are definitely not experienced in any kind of bicycle with horizontal/adjustable drop outs. They're the lowest maintenance option available for such a bike.

Are they slipping? because there is one other rider with this issue, but he admits he rides it much harder than it is designed for.

If you can't align them, that's on you. If you're riding this bike like a mountain bike, they (meaning Paragon Machine Works) make titanium bolts that can grip a lot harder than the aluminum bolts it comes with, but the only people I've ever talked to that needed them, are riding it like a mountain bike. Which it is not.

As for Soma, yeah, their customer service seems pretty terrible. I mentioned that the paint was flaking off my brand new Wolverine, and they couldn't be bothered to even reply.

The wolverine rides better and has better geometry than Surly, but frankly I wish Surly would build a bike as well as Soma does. Because while I prefer my Soma and probably will never buy another Surly, Surly really took care of me on my warranty issues.

Soma will make excuses about how small they are, but they don't really have the right. I still love their bikes, heck, I follow everyone even vaguely associated with the company on facebook. But they seem to succeed in spite of their attitudes. the bikes are that solid.

Well, the Wolverine, Double Cross, Saga, ES and Smoothie are. I don't know how I feel about their mountain bikes.


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## thatmaceguy (Dec 7, 2014)

grubetown said:


> Check out the sweet builds on this Instagram
> http://instagram.com/morgman


Better yet, search #somawolverine https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/somawolverine/


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I am thinking about getting a wolverine. I've been waiting since March for a straggler frame. Now it's on back order till August. Is the wolverine just as capable off road as the straggler? Looking for a bike to go on adventures and exploring and lots of miles


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

I will say that the wolverine is probably more capable off road than the straggler. I've taken mine on some pretty awesome single track runs and it eats it up and asks for more. The geometry is just right to be comfortable almost everywhere - single track, road, gravel... This really is the all road beast I was looking for. I'm running 35c cross boss tires, but they look bigger than the 40c happy mediums on my other bike. I'm really excited to throw on some 29x2.1 tires like the Nano or SB8.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Thank you. It really looks like a more finished bike than the surly. Any pictures of your bike how its set up?


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

The Wolverine is definitely better off road than the Straggler. I say that having owned both.

The rear axle is less prone to slipping than the Straggler, the head tube is taller, and it fits considerably larger tires than the Straggler.

I fit 2.1 inch knobbies in the Wolverine with a little room to breathe. My 2.0 slicks rubbed the chainstays in my Straggler


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Thank you. I'm definitely not waiting for the straggler. Im going to order the wolverine this weekend.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Mine is a few posts up in this thread - click the picture and it should take you to my photobucket for a few more pics. Another advantage of the Wolverine - the orange paint is awesome!


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Awsome looking bike. Yeah orange is a big plus. It's my favorite color. My current mtb is an orange stache. I already have orange ck hubs and an orange head set. Looks like it was meant to be


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## thatmaceguy (Dec 7, 2014)

Psycho1 said:


> I am thinking about getting a wolverine. I've been waiting since March for a straggler frame. Now it's on back order till August. Is the wolverine just as capable off road as the straggler? Looking for a bike to go on adventures and exploring and lots of miles


Maybe johnny the boy will chime in, he had a Straggler before building the greatest Wolverine ever (see earlier posts)


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I was just looking at his pictures. He has both bikes and the wolverine is for sale. Would definitely like to hear his thoughts. The wolverine is a nice looking bike


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I, also have had both bikes. I also have a very heavily viewed reddit review that compares both bikes.

I kind of want to update it. But I feel like it wouldn't be fair since I sold the Straggler.

It is especially helpful because the same parts were used on both framesets. letting me really focus on the quality of the frames, and not on different parts specs.


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/2ivtad


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I have read your review several times. It realy is a great review. You mention you use flat bars and commute. Not much trail? I think our use will be a little Different so im not sure. I will be using it for miles. trail from home. Back packing exploring. Going to be rough on it for sure. I want it to be an adventure bike.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I use all sorts of bars. I'm a bike mechanic, I just rotate out parts when I get bored with a certain build. It started with narrow flat bars, It had wide road drops for a long time, and I just barely switched to MTB specific swept bars. Which have been the most fun.

I commute a lot less than when I built the bike. Now it see's the little dirt trails that are around my house. Nothing wild, but exactly what the bike was designed for.

It has a Surly nice rack on it now. set up for light dirt touring. It's still the perfect commuter, but now I can swap on my knobbies and hit the dirt for an afternoon. and swap them back to slicks when I have a long commute/ride coming up.

The one thing I want to change is a wide range rear derailleur, it's 11-28 105 out back, and frankly I've never needed more. But an 11-40 XT will cover all my bases for the future.

I hate (soaking wet T shirt/ stanky pack)backpacking, so my bike has a frame bag, and front and rear racks. the rear rack and frame bag stay on the shelf unless I'm doing something big.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Very cool. Sounds like what I'm looking for. Is there any one thing you like the surly for better? Or do you think the wolverine is more capable all around? I have all the parts for the build just need a frame. Cow chippers 105 group 11 speed. Ck hubs tires everything. Even just received my headset spacers today.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Sounds like you got a plan! I am thinking about switching to a mtb bar type setup with mine and putting some fat tires on. Not sure if I'm gonna keep it 2x10 or go 1x something yet. Thinking about a front rack for mine too, but not sure which one I'm gonna go with just yet. Something smaller with a platform is probably in my future, but since my cockpit is all matte black, I kinda want to find one that comes in matte black. Anyone have any suggestions?


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Psycho1 said:


> Very cool. Sounds like what I'm looking for. Is there any one thing you like the surly for better? Or do you think the wolverine is more capable all around? I have all the parts for the build just need a frame. Cow chippers 105 group 11 speed. Ck hubs tires everything. Even just received my headset spacers today.


I think the Surly fork is stiffer. For loaded touring/ hard off road riding it seems better , stock fork to stock fork.

I have a DT Swiss RWS skewer on my Wolverine, which clamps hard enough that it has actually made the fork track a little more like a thru-axle fork.

It also has that Surly Rack on it now. Which acts a bit like a suspension bridge to stiffen the fork further. So now I'm in a really good place with it. but if I was ONLY doing off road, I'd run the Surly Straggler fork. The fork is dirt cheap. so it's not a huge investment. geometrically it's a near identical fit. The Straggler has horrible tire clearance for a bike of this nature (monstercross) in the REAR, the clearance in the fork is fine.

These bikes are "Jack of all trades, a master of none" bikes. They are by their nature a compromise.

The Straggler is built with the durability of a full blown mountain bike. But with the geometry of an outdated road bike. It rides like it's confused about what it is. And it never feels right.

I feel like the Wolverine came about a different way. I feel like they started with a touring bike, which is usually pretty solid off road. They then beefed it up to XC mountain bike standards, and they realized that with the sliding drops AND a bigger tire out back, the rear wheel could get decently tucked into the seatpost AND glued to the road, and it would be pretty nimble on the pavement.

I've tried to describe the difference between these bikes in so many ways. I think I can sum it up a bit more briefly now.

*No matter what you do with it, the Wolverine dissappears beneath you and just does what you tell it. Tire choice seems to be the only concern. No matter what you do with the Straggler, it will do it. But you'll be thinking things would be better if you had a bike designed specifically for that ride.*


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Wow. Thank you. That is a great visual the way you described it disappearing.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

I haven't ridden a straggler, but I will definitely second what Agwan said about the wolverine fork - it is flexy. I have asked Soma a few times about a thru-axle fork for the wolverine, and so far have no response. Good to know the straggler fork is close enough in geo to work well, but much stiffer. Thanks! 

I'm also considering the DT Swiss 9mm thru-bolt. Are you running a hub specific for that, or did you do a 15mm thru axle hub and an adaptor?


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## MindEyeSight (Nov 19, 2013)

I actually like the compliance of the front fork. I think it really enhances the ride quality and helps the bike "plane." You guys might be thinking about the flex differently than I am, but in my opinion it's an asset. My setup is a daily commuter with some light gravel occasionally for fun. Doing the GAP & C&O on it later this month.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Don't get me wrong, it makes for a super comfortable ride, but there is a lot of lateral flex in the fork that makes it a little imprecise for trail riding. Body english is necessary for any serious trail riding, which is part of what makes this bike so much fun. I'd love to have two of these bikes, one with fat slick tires and flat bars for commuting, and one with big knobbies for mixed riding. But, I'm going to get a full suspension mtb after my deployment, and plan on keeping the wolverine more or less how it sits now.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

SpeedyStein said:


> I haven't ridden a straggler, but I will definitely second what Agwan said about the wolverine fork - it is flexy. I have asked Soma a few times about a thru-axle fork for the wolverine, and so far have no response. Good to know the straggler fork is close enough in geo to work well, but much stiffer. Thanks!
> 
> I'm also considering the DT Swiss 9mm thru-bolt. Are you running a hub specific for that, or did you do a 15mm thru axle hub and an adaptor?


I have a DT Swiss 350 Centerlock front hub. It wasn't convertible, I am JUST running an RWS skewer. And it has made a huge difference. It's made a big enough difference that I've considered the 9mm thru bolt, but the hubs available and the brake mounts are VERY limited.



MindEyeSight said:


> I actually like the compliance of the front fork. I think it really enhances the ride quality and helps the bike "plane." You guys might be thinking about the flex differently than I am, but in my opinion it's an asset. My setup is a daily commuter with some light gravel occasionally for fun. Doing the GAP & C&O on it later this month.


I think the fork flexes perfectly for me when I'm commuting. Which was the Wolverine's first purpose. but the RWS skewer really helped with lateral stiffness. which is never a bad thing.

I also converted the rear axle to 12x142. That made a GIANT difference. I also converted the alloy bolts to combination head titanium bolts. I didn't have a problem with slipping before. And now I NEVER will!


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I ordered the wolverine frame today. And being as I'm a big guy 6'3" 205 # . I also ordered the straggler fork. 2 and a half weeks out. I'll be waiting patiently.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Yeah, at that weight you're not a big guy. bigger than average. but not big. I'm like... 270ish. 

Even thin, rail thin. bone's sticking out, I'm 200. And I'm 5'9ish. 

Bigger bikes are designed for bigger riders. you're maybe 20 pounds past the median rider weight for your frame size(usually about 180), which put's you well within the safe zone for ideal performance.

But heck, do the straggler fork anyways. It'll look trick. And it is a little bit stiffer.

Also do a good internal cam skewer or RWS skewer. Something known for strong clamping force, not necessarily for being expensive.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Thank for saying that. I was 340 2. 5 years ago so I still feel I need to over build. The way I look at it, it will be more than capable off road with no concerns. Yeah I thought the black surrly fork would look cool also.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Damn, congrats on the lifestyle change that helped you lose weight like that! I should mention I'm 5'11" and about 190-200ish, depending on if I'm good on my diet that month, and ride a 54cm Wolverine. I'm really interested to hear how the Straggler fork works out for you!

Agwan, what's your thoughts on running a 15mm thru axle hub with something like this

15mm thru Axle Hub Adapter to 9mm Quick Release Skewer 15mm thru Hub Adapter | eBay

matched up with this

DT Swiss RWS Thru Bolt 9x100mm Front Aluminum Lever - Modern Bike

I'm thinking it might be a way to stiffen the front and keep the stock fork, while being able to jump into a modern mtb wheelset.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I want it. I want it bad. I'm told that these adapters work well. Googling these adapters seems to show a lot of people getting great results.

Time to buy some new hubs! 

As soon as I can afford to build new wheels.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I will let you know how it works out once I have it built up. I'll post pics also


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## rvsixer (Sep 25, 2012)

Psycho1 said:


> I ordered the wolverine frame today. And being as I'm a big guy 6'3" 205 # . I also ordered the straggler fork. 2 and a half weeks out. I'll be waiting patiently.


What size did you order? I'm 6'4" 225, the 60cm seems too small for anyone much over 6'1"/35" inseam or so. The Soma store does not list the 62cm as available for order yet.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I ordered a 58 I only have a 32 inseam


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## rvsixer (Sep 25, 2012)

Psycho1 said:


> I ordered a 58 I only have a 32 inseam


Ok got it. And I thought I had a long torso (inseam 36.25").


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## Cyclinglymie (Oct 3, 2013)

johnny the boy said:


>


I Like THIS!!! a Lot


----------



## WarPigs (Dec 21, 2005)

any news on availability?


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## classVI (Jun 22, 2016)

hi - I like the look of this - any guidance you can give on the paint removal? and perhaps a difficulty rating? did you clear coat it after?


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## ghebinkim (Nov 8, 2011)

WarPigs said:


> any news on availability?


LBS said that Merry Sales (local distributor in SF Bay Area) only had orange in 54 cm sizing. Thankfully that was the size/color I wanted  No word on next shipments.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I've had a hard time getting one. They sell out within an hour or so of then getting stock in.


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## bosun120 (Jul 22, 2014)

Just put a deposit down on one of the last in stock Wolverine frames from my LBS, Orange 56cm. I wanted Black but apparently they were out of stock until October, so I didn't want to wait that long and just went with the available color.

Nothing crazy build planned, just going to have the LBS transfer the (mostly stock) parts from my old aluminum Jake to the Wolverine. Upgrades will come down the line when the wallet is fatter, but excited for the possibilities this frame can handle. Excited to ride my first steel bike though!


----------



## jdee2wheels (Nov 29, 2010)

thatmaceguy said:


> View attachment 1073763
> 
> 
> So this is coming along nicely. Really digging the Soma Cazadero.


What brand rear rack is that, it looks perfect for a saddle bag support? How is it supported other than the two rack mounts in the top of the seat stays?

Thanks!


----------



## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Waiting for a long time for this frame. Was able to pick it up Saturday. Spent the better part of today and yesterday evening building it up. Need to wrap the bars after I get a few rides.


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## karmaportrait (Jul 28, 2016)

Anyone know if there are dropouts available to make this viable as a fixed gear setup?


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## rvsixer (Sep 25, 2012)

karmaportrait said:


> Anyone know if there are dropouts available to make this viable as a fixed gear setup?


The frame comes fixed gear capable already.


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## karmaportrait (Jul 28, 2016)

rvsixer said:


> The frame comes fixed gear capable already.


So you would just use the existing vertical/road dropouts and tension the chain with the sliding TRD two bolt system? (Sorry I'm sure my nomenclature for the parts is off).

Also, any issues with slippage and the torque of a fixed gear setup?


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Yeah, the concern is proper chain tension. Not how you come around to proper chain tension. Most people who ride fixed gear, at least in my experience, ride with way too much tension, or worse, don't adjust tension as the chain wears.

the adjustment screws that the sliders come with will not only let you fine tune the tension, they let you fine tune alignment as well.

A disc brake applies much more force, more suddenly, to the rear wheel than your feet can. This frame is designed around disc brakes, So this frame is designed to handle all the stopping force being delivered near the hub.

Fixed gear is murder on tires, incredibly hard on your joints, and a good deal harder on your rear wheel, it is not (In my opinion) substantially harder on a frame. At least not when set up properly.


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## karmaportrait (Jul 28, 2016)

You make a great point about the disc vs leg torque aspect of things. Something I had not thought of.


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## classVI (Jun 22, 2016)

does anyone have any experience with converting the rear to 12 x 142? I've done so recently using the recommended paragon machine works parts, but I am getting some lateral play in the wheel - wondering if there's some trick to setting up the inserts or if spacers are needed


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I do! I got no play, what hub are you using? I converted a DT Swiss 350, and I am using the DT Swiss thru Axle. 

It's been brilliant!

Like I mentioned in the other thread, the paragon parts, at least for me. Fit the sliders a little more precisely than the stock Tange sliders. You can tell how well Paragon does their thing.


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## classVI (Jun 22, 2016)

figured it out - super silly - it was the bolts on the seatstay break that were creating the play - not the paragon inserts


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## kyttyra (Mar 8, 2012)

I think my build is now finished


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## karmaportrait (Jul 28, 2016)

Very nice!

What are the fenders / tire size? 

Also, I see lots of people opting for front rack over rear rack, is that just for load distribution?


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## kyttyra (Mar 8, 2012)

Thanks!

Fenders are 53 mm Bluemels. Rear shortened/rear and the tires are 40 mm (really 43-44) Panaracer Gravel King SK:s. I have a feeling that those fenders may be a little too narrow, but that will be seen when the winter comes. 60 mm fenders would be nice but they are either 26" specific, very short, or, cost >100 euros :/

I think that quite a few people opt front rack over rear rack because the Radavist and such sites show numerous good-looking bikes with front racks. I fell to that trap also >.<

...well, the other reason of opting for front rack was this:









2 Ortlieb front panniers and a Revelate viscacha gives me >40 liters of carrying capacity, and I really do not need more. Should I really go for a serious tour, I'd probably swap the viscacha for 2 rear panniers.


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## ghebinkim (Nov 8, 2011)

Hi everyone, finally built mine up! Currently built up as a singlespeed around towner, but will eventually add a rear cassette and run a 1x setup with a downtube shifter. Wasn't quite sure how the brown tires/tape would turn out, but I think it looks pretty decent. Bike sure is fun to ride! Gotta say I am a HUGE fan of the TRP Hylex brakes.


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## Chopins (Aug 9, 2016)

Hi all,
First post here but I have been reading avidly the thread. I am heading for my first complete bike build, probably with rohloff and belt drive. I'm looking for some advice on the sizing: I'm 6ft 1.5 inches tall with 35 inches inseam. It will be mostly for touring / gravel roads+ city, potentially carrying some weight (at least our kid from time to time!). I like a more upright position, not that much of an "agressive" rider.

Any recommandation on the frame size I should aim? Seems like either 58 or 60 should fit.

Also, a side question, but is there any fundamental difference with specialized AWOL frameset in terms of versatility/quality? 

Thanks a lot!


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Without knowing your measurements it would be hard to tell you which size to pick. I have short legs and a very long torso, I got this bike because it has a really long top tube for it's seat tube length.

That doesn't mean it only works for short leg/ long torso people.

I think the AWOL frameset is pretty darn competitive with the wolverine. Though I felt the Wolverine rode with a bit more pep. Both are good.

The complete AWOLs aren't made with Reynolds like the Frameset is. So I'd make sure to get the frame only


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## umarth (Dec 5, 2007)

Don't know if this is kosher with the free advertisements, but I got a Soma Wolverine crash replacement, but since the whole process took so long, I bought another bike to get back to commuting before it showed up.

It is orange and 56cm and still in the box. Details here: 56cm Soma Wolverine - Buy and Sell Mountain Bikes and Accessories

Open to offers- I'm just trying to get back to even on losses.


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## somacisco (Aug 17, 2004)

Hi there: Definitely figure out what top tube length your ideal bike is. Standover height doesn't tell the whole story. Uprightness should not be a problem since the Wolverine's fork has a long 350mm long steerer. I highly recommend going through a bike shop to get the right fit and build. Good luck.



Chopins said:


> Hi all,
> First post here but I have been reading avidly the thread. I am heading for my first complete bike build, probably with rohloff and belt drive. I'm looking for some advice on the sizing: I'm 6ft 1.5 inches tall with 35 inches inseam. It will be mostly for touring / gravel roads+ city, potentially carrying some weight (at least our kid from time to time!). I like a more upright position, not that much of an "agressive" rider.
> 
> Any recommandation on the frame size I should aim? Seems like either 58 or 60 should fit.
> ...


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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

I just ordered my Wolverine and it should be here this week! I am 6'2" with 34" inseam, 200 lbs, and long-ass arms like an orangutan. I got the 58cm frame (long top tube for the win). 

I have been riding vintage steel bikes for the past 10 years, and I will miss lugged framework. But nothing can quite match modern engineering and the tire clearance of monster cross bikes. I'll mostly be commuting in urban setting with trail rides as much as possible, and bikepacking tours on occasion.

I'm thinking a 42/28 or 42/32 crank should get me around town comfortably and up hills while loaded if necessary. I am curious what other people are doing for cranks though. I don't know that much about available options. What is a good mid-range, affordable crankset? And is everyone pretty much in agreement to run 10 speed rear?

Perhaps this question is for another forum or thread, but can I take the Sakae triple crankset off my vintage tourer and use the middle and granny ring as cranks on the Wolverine? 

Thanks for the input, and I'll get pictures up as things progress.


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## Chopins (Aug 9, 2016)

Hi all,

Thanks for the replies to my previous post. After some fitting in a LBS, found out 58/59cm top tubelength should fit me alright. I just ordered my 58cm black matte frame which should be there in a couple weeks... The great quest for the other components begins (Rohloff, Rims, Crankset...).

It will probably be a few months before I finish this build but I'll definitely post pictures of the final result!

Thanks a lot!

Chopins


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## PAmtbiker81 (Aug 31, 2016)

Just signed up because of this thread. About to buy a wolverine frame. I am 5'6-5'7" with a 30" inseam and a long torso. I am planning in getting a 52cm. If anyone thinks I should go a size smaller please let me know. I plan on doing a shimano 105 crank and shifter setup with slx rear mech and cassette 11-36. Trp cable/hydraulic discs. Mavic wheels. Salsa bars. Thomson post and stem. I am open to any advice before I start dumping money into this. Been riding 25 years lots of 50+ mile days singletrack, gravel roads, rail trails, and some back roads.


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## PAmtbiker81 (Aug 31, 2016)

Duplicate


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)

^last week.









^3 days ago









^yesterday...went to a paul seatpost after putting on the nitto bullmoose bar.


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## yds (Jun 28, 2015)

Hi all! Just picked myself up a 56cm Wolverine frame. Plan on building it as a single speed commuter, using a Gates belt drive system. Question to current owners about brakes, specifically those with TRP Spyre's. I recall reading somewhere about problems with the 160 version of these brakes interfering with the spokes, possibly only with SS or IGH systems. Anyone have any experiences with SS hubs and the Spyre's?? From other online readings (including this thread) seems that Spyre's are preferred over BB7's, so I'm leaning in that direction.


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## johnny the boy (Dec 21, 2009)

mounter the spyres to my frame...160mm rotors...the inside of the caliper had about 1mm of clearance bfore contacting the spokes. the caliper body is just too thick on the spyres....i prefer the bb7's....


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## classVI (Jun 22, 2016)

my two cents - I've had bad experiences with TRP Spyres - the actuation arm can hyper extend and you lose braking ability - super scary - This issue was 'addressed' with a recall, but I had the issue on the replacement too - I switched over to bb7s and haven't looked back. People may not 'love' the feel of BB7s, but they are super easy to maintain and the pads can be adjusted all by hand - which is pretty useful for roadside adjustments


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## emat (Oct 27, 2011)

No issues whatsoever with TRP's Hy/Rd's. Good performance too.


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## Syncro (Apr 20, 2014)

I am pretty much the exact same measurements as you and that is the size I would also get. Looks right to me. I currently have the cowchipper on a gravel bike and love it, fyi. Also look into a body float. I added one and I'm way faster now.



PAmtbiker81 said:


> Just signed up because of this thread. About to buy a wolverine frame. I am 5'6-5'7" with a 30" inseam and a long torso. I am planning in getting a 52cm. If anyone thinks I should go a size smaller please let me know. I plan on doing a shimano 105 crank and shifter setup with slx rear mech and cassette 11-36. Trp cable/hydraulic discs. Mavic wheels. Salsa bars. Thomson post and stem. I am open to any advice before I start dumping money into this. Been riding 25 years lots of 50+ mile days singletrack, gravel roads, rail trails, and some back roads.


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## PAmtbiker81 (Aug 31, 2016)

*Thanks for the reply*



Syncro said:


> I am pretty much the exact same measurements as you and that is the size I would also get. Looks right to me. I currently have the cowchipper on a gravel bike and love it, fyi. Also look into a body float. I added one and I'm way faster now.


I ended up ordering the 52cm and I'm glad I did. I probably could have gone up or down a size no problem, with some adjustments. The 52cm is a perfect fit though. I got the cowchippers and I have a nice carbon seatpost that I had on a ht mt bike but that body float looks awesome. I think this bike is going to replace my mt bike completely. It floats down the rail trail that I ride at a comfortable 25 mph on the flats. I'm happy.


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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

*Update: My build*

I love riding this bike. Super excited to get out on it. Serfas Drifter tires are pretty sweet and suitable for my intents and purposes. Selle Italia Flite for $5 in a parts bin. :thumbsup: Having some trouble with the dropouts slipping and causing brake disc rubbing, but I tightened down the bolts even more so hopefully they will stay put.

Looking forward to getting a good front rack and taking it on an extended ride next.


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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

Wolverine Pics


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## yds (Jun 28, 2015)

*Wolverine with Gates drive*

Anyone out there running their Wolverine with a Gates belt system? If so, what crankset/chainring are you using??

I'm in the process of my belt-drive build, and I chose an SRAM S300 crankset to use with a Gates 42t chainring for a singlespeed set-up. The clearance between the CDX chainring and chainstay is a measly 1mm or so, and that's before tensioning the belt. Concerned about the ring rubbing on the frame. The S300 crankset doesn't appear to be adjustable so I'm either going to have to try it out, or think about a different crankset.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

I think you might be ok with a tight clearance - I've seen some setups super close like that and they seem to be working fine. Can you shim the bottom bracket cup out a mm or two? Sometimes the crankset / be assembly comes with a shim or two to accommodate different frame types. Or you could try a smaller chainring.


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## yds (Jun 28, 2015)

SpeedyStein said:


> Can you shim the bottom bracket cup out a mm or two? Sometimes the crankset / be assembly comes with a shim or two to accommodate different frame types. Or you could try a smaller chainring.


Best I can figure out via online research is that the S300 crankset is specifically designed for single speed setups, so doesn't come with any spacers for 68mm shell. And due to the GXP engineering, only way to move chainline is moving the non-drive side in and out. It's already all the way in, so can't move it any further in.

As for chainring, the Gates rings aren't cheap. To get the same ratio I'd need new front and back rings, and maybe belt.

Thanks for the input. I'll give it a go with the current setup. May end up having to go with new crankset.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

It seems strange that you can't adjust chainline with bb spacers, but SRAM probably doesn't like that idea because of prescribed chainline "standards" with belt drive setups. Good luck with your setup, please keep us informed with what you find works!


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## yds (Jun 28, 2015)

*Almost done - Single Speed Belt Drive Commuter*

Finally, after almost 3 months, my SS belt drive commuter build is close to being done. Ended up replacing the SRAM crankset I purchased with a Sugino Messenger (better chainstay clearance for the Gates chainring), and having to get a whole new drivechain set due to the too low gear ratio (despite being the recommended setup on the Soma Wolverine website). Last thing I'm still waiting to add are some fenders.

Full component list:

Brakes - TRP Spyre mechanical disc brakes (160mm)
Front Hub - ShutterPrecision dynohub PD-8 36 hole black
Rear Hub - Shimano DeoreXT rear Freehub with DRM SingleSpeed Conversion Set
Wheels/Spokes -Velocity Cliffhanger 700C non-machined rims / DT Spokes
Tires - Clement Xplor MSO 700x40 tires
Headset - Cane Creek 40 Headset
Bars - Salsa Cowchipper drop bar
Brake Levers - SRAMS500 brake levers
Stem - Generic 60mm stem, 16 degree rise
Tape - Black Octto Gel Bar Tape
Cranks - Sugino Messenger Crankset 165mm
Pedals - Dartmoor Stream Pro Flat Pedals
Bottom Bracket -Shimano UN55 118mm BB
Front Chainring -Gates 55 Tooth 5-bolt 130BCD
Rear Cog - Gates 20 Tooth 9-spline
Belt - Gates 118 Tooth (Black)
Seatpost - N49 Aluminum with black 29.8mm clamp
Saddle - Brooks C15- Slate Gray 
Fenders - Soma RainDog - Matte Black (on back-order with LBS)
Racks - Blackburn Local Deluxe Rack (front and back) w/ Ortlieb QL-3 mount on rear
Front Light - B&M Lumotec IQ-X dynamo light
Rear Light - Cygolite Hotshot SL30 (considering upgrading to B&M Secula Plus dynamo tail light)
Computer -Cyclosport CM 4.11 wireless
Bell - Evo black
Downtube boss covers- Chessex Dice white/black

Feel free to ask any questions about the build. Especially if you are planning a belt drive.


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## Cyclinglymie (Oct 3, 2013)

very nice ^


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Nice build, yds! I fitted the same rack on the front of mine recently, seems pretty solid. I dig the 40mm Clements on there!


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## tekhna (Oct 5, 2008)

Anyone have sizing suggestions for a 6'4" guy with a 34" inseam and long torso/arms? I'm thinking the 60 is a pretty safe bet, but the 62 would give me options to run flat bars.


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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

tekhna said:


> Anyone have sizing suggestions for a 6'4" guy with a 34" inseam and long torso/arms? I'm thinking the 60 is a pretty safe bet, but the 62 would give me options to run flat bars.


So I'm 6'2" with 34" inseam and the 58cm frame fits well. I have very long arms but I find enough adjustability in the stem/handlebar/steerer tube combination.

I prefer getting away with the smallest frame possible, and fitting the bike with components as necessary. I haven't run into any problems with fit, but if I needed more reach I could do a set-back seat post. You're two inches taller, but I don't think a 62cm is necessary.

I would try the 60cm frame at a nearby shop or if you see one rolling by. Maybe even try the 58 and consider components that tailor the fit to you as needed.


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## tekhna (Oct 5, 2008)

sellwinerugs said:


> So I'm 6'2" with 34" inseam and the 58cm frame fits well. I have very long arms but I find enough adjustability in the stem/handlebar/steerer tube combination.
> 
> I prefer getting away with the smallest frame possible, and fitting the bike with components as necessary. I haven't run into any problems with fit, but if I needed more reach I could do a set-back seat post. You're two inches taller, but I don't think a 62cm is necessary.
> 
> I would try the 60cm frame at a nearby shop or if you see one rolling by. Maybe even try the 58 and consider components that tailor the fit to you as needed.


Yeah, a friend's got a 58, I should give that thing a ride around the block. I've typically had 605 TTs on my road bikes so the 60cm is about right for me, assuming the geometry transfers over. I'm actually mildly worried about standover on the 60cm.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I'm 6'3" with a 32 inseam. I use a 58. Short stem and saddle slammed all the way forward. Fits me great.. 60 would be to big for me. I'm all torso. 

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## Drummerboy1975 (Nov 24, 2011)

I'm more than likely going to get a Wolverine frame. I need to know if I can make the crank set from my Carbon Ridley X-Night Disc 30 fit. It's a Rotar double crank set with a press fit BB. Is there a way to make this crank set for a Wolverine?


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Drummerboy1975 said:


> I'm more than likely going to get a Wolverine frame. I need to know if I can make the crank set from my Carbon Ridley X-Night Disc 30 fit. It's a Rotar double crank set with a press fit BB. Is there a way to make this crank set for a Wolverine?


The Wolverine has a threaded bottom bracket shell, so you would need a bottom bracket to fit that. I think it depends on the crankset - there might be one available from Rotor, or you might have to source one from somewhere like Praxis. I would ask Rotor; they can probably point you in the right direction. Good luck!


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## roadscrape (Apr 12, 2010)

Like the orange spacers. Nice touch!
Cheers
Bill in Roswell, GA


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## roadscrape (Apr 12, 2010)

A Wolverine has been on my build radar. Kind of glad I waited until now as apparently the new forks are stronger (so I've read). 

I will build with dirt drops, Shimano 10 sp bar ends, wide range 2x10 with XTR clutch RD, CX70 FD. For keeping things field-repairable, I'll go with TRP Spykes. Have 'em on the MTB with Ice rotors and the feel is better than cheap hydro brakes, esp. if you use good quality compressionless housing and slick cables.

One thing I've noticed reading through all the builds mentioned: everyone wants wider tires while using 700 rims. Why not 650B rims to get a wider tire? My original plan was to use 650B wheels. Just curious why on one has gone there yet.

By the way, some buddies on the west coast told me that Merry Sales responds to phone calls (Pacific Time) much better than they respond to email. 

Cheers,
Bill in Roswell, GA


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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

roadscrape said:


> One thing I've noticed reading through all the builds mentioned: everyone wants wider tires while using 700 rims. Why not 650B rims to get a wider tire? My original plan was to use 650B wheels. Just curious why on one has gone there yet.
> 
> By the way, some buddies on the west coast told me that Merry Sales responds to phone calls (Pacific Time) much better than they respond to email.
> 
> ...


Good luck with the build. A heads up from me would be to check compatibility with your bar end shifters and rear derailleur if you're going the Shimano route. I also wanted 2x10 and bar end shifting. I have Dura Ace bar ends which are wonderful, but they are not in the Shimano Dyna-Sys group which is the new mtb system. I had a Deore XT derailleur but had to use a Wolftooth Tanpan to change the ratio for proper adjusting. It was a hassle, shifted poorly, was bulky and caused heel strike. So I switched to a 105 road derailleur. Of course, shifting is much better but now I'm limited to 32t low cog due to the medium cage.

On your 650 point: Also, I am considering the 650b build (27.5"). I built my bike up with beefy 700, 36h Sun Rhyno lites (ironically, not lite, v heavy). Acceleration is sluggish with thick tires. I would like to have a smaller diameter for more zippy commuter bike, which is what I do on my Wolverine 99% of time.

If you're riding gravel people say the 29er can smooth out the roughs and bumps better due to its wheel diameter. Just depends on your intents with the bike.

Post pics when you get it built!


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## huntergatherer (Feb 20, 2016)

I have a quick question to Wolverine builders: for a person measuring 5 ft 11 inches (180 cm) which Wolverine size would be advised for a more sporty build? Size 54? Size 52? 

I would usually pick a 56 but with Soma I'm confused by the elongated top tube (as compared to seat tube).


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## yds (Jun 28, 2015)

roadscrape said:


> One thing I've noticed reading through all the builds mentioned: everyone wants wider tires while using 700 rims. Why not 650B rims to get a wider tire? My original plan was to use 650B wheels. Just curious why on one has gone there yet.


Soma has some info on its blog about 650b conversion for the Wolverine.

Soma Feed: Guide to 650B Conversions on Soma Frames


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## tradarcher (Apr 25, 2014)

What wheelset is everyone using with their wolverine?


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I built my wheels. DT 350 hubs, DT comp spokes, DT brass nipples and Velocity Chukkers in 32 hole.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

Shimano Deore XT hubs and Sun Rhyno Lite 36h rims


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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

Has anyone had any success getting the Tubus Tara front low rider rack on the Wolverine? I cannot get my rack to clear the front disc caliper bracket, and if I mount on the eyelet at the front of the fork, I cannot remove my wheel without removing the rack each time. 

Is anyone has been successful getting a rack on the front fork, let me know! Please post pics of Tara mounted to Wolverine front fork brake side detail. Would be super helpful. 

Thanks, fam


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

You do get that you can use spacers, right? 

Google foundinthemountains. I believe his blog has a buttload of pictures of him running a Tara on the Wolverine.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


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## grubetown (Sep 22, 2013)

@Agwan beat me too it - Morgan Taylor has successfully mounted Tubus Tara on the Wolverine.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Yeah, also, I ran a Surly Nice Rack on my Wolverine. It was just way too much rack for my needs.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

Agwan said:


> You do get that you can use spacers, right?
> 
> Google foundinthemountains. I believe his blog has a buttload of pictures of him running a Tara on the Wolverine.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


Roger that. I just wanted to see what other people had done. Spacers solve the problem but increase shear stress on the bolts. I'll just keep an eye on them when loaded.

Agreed that Nice Racks are overkill, but the top deck is nice. I'm probably going to upgrade to the Janndd Extreme front.


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## boriss111 (Feb 7, 2017)

I am also thinking of building a bike with Wolverine frame. This would be my first build, as so far I only had completely built bikes. I am 6' 4" with 37" inseam, and my ape index (arm span minus height) is 2". I am thinking to go with 62 frame as I will be using a flat bar and I don't like long stems.

The bike will be 1 x 11. I plan to use the following components. PLEASE let me know if you see anything stupid!

- Custom built wheels using White Industries CLD hubs and HED Belgium Plus rims (the wheel builder will decide on spokes, I have no preference)
- Continental Top Contact II 37-622 tires
- SRAM PG-1170 Cassette 11-36
- SRAM S700 shifter
- SRAM Force 1 rear derailleur, long cage
- SRAM PC-1170 chain
- Specialites TA Vega cranks, 180mm
- Specialites TA 110 BCD spider
- Wolf Tooth 110 BCD Cyclocross Chainring 48T
- Phil Wood square tapper stainless steel bottom bracket
- VT VX Trail pedals
- Shimano Deore XT hydraulic disk brakes/brake levers/disks
- Chris King headset - anybody knows which model is compatible with Wolverine frame/fork?
- Selle Anatomica X Series seat
- Modolo Mohican bar or a flat bar from LBS
- Generic seatpost/stem from LBS

All comments are welcome


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## zmjones (Sep 9, 2015)

boriss111 said:


> I am also thinking of building a bike with Wolverine frame. This would be my first build, as so far I only had completely built bikes. I am 6' 4" with 37" inseam, and my ape index (arm span minus height) is 2". I am thinking to go with 62 frame as I will be using a flat bar and I don't like long stems.
> 
> The bike will be 1 x 11. I plan to use the following components. PLEASE let me know if you see anything stupid!
> 
> ...


that chainring is huge. do you live in a really flat area? is the square taper bb required to get these cranks you want? otherwise i'd avoid that. you don't need the long cage derailuer to use that cassette. also force? i don't know if there is a sram flat bar shifter that will actuate that rd. you'd want one of their mtb rds. i also would get bigger tires.


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## boriss111 (Feb 7, 2017)

@zmjones, thanks for the suggestions. I live in a really flat area. You would need to ride for 100km through a desert to get to mountains, which I don't plan ever doing. If I move to less flat area, I'll swap it for smaller one or a double.

I was thinking Force would be better suited as I will mostly ride on pavement. Force 1 groupset has flat bar shifter, the S700.

I am open to suggestions regarding the crankset, my only requirement is 180mm crank length. TA Vega is the only one I am aware of.


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## sdwhitey (Apr 3, 2010)

Anyone know the official torque specs for those drive side seat stay bolts that allow for a belt drive? If not, what would you recommend?


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I'm really having an issue with my front brake howling. I've tried everything. And it is not contaminated. Starts howling after a couple hard breaks even with me rotors and organic pads. I think it has to do web the harmonics of the front fork. Rear break has never made a sound. Had anyone wise experienced this? I know this fork flexes alot. And i wonder if that had something to do with it


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Fork flex will not make your brakes howl, ever.

It's not a thing that happens.

This fork flexes more than I like, but it's not a particularly flexy steel fork. Caliper alignment, leaking pistons, thinking it is not contaminated when it is. Using incompatible rotors and pads. Being Sram, incorrect break in procedure, the wrong adapter...

All of those things can lead to brake howl. But it isn't going to be "fork harmonics"

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Avid bb7. Set up correctly. Multiple times.. The rear. No noise. Never had to mess with them.. Front. Nothing I do makes them quite down. You can hear the howl resonate from the spokes and everything. The bike shop was at a loss when i takes with them and showed them.. Pads are spotlesss.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Just an FYI. When the fork flexes you can watch it change the relationship of the caliper to disk alot. Part of why I'm thinking it's the fork. And it's only hard breaking that causes it. And that is when the fork not only flexes but actually twists at the caliper mount.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Yeah, Avid is Sram. Like I said, being Sram is a common cause of brake squeal. I'm not joking. Pads can look spotless and not be. Also, even the slightest of contaminants can cause Avids to howl, and no amount of decontamination will cure it. The only truly permanent solution I've found for people that buy that out dated brake, is to swap in some EBC gold pads and Shimano rotors. 

It's not the fork. I do this for a living. You bought extremely tempermental and somewhat outdated brakes.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I have the shimano rotors. Made the noise with brand new pads twice. The rear never make a sound.. I will try the ebc gold pads and report back. Thank you


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I would love to be able to use hydro shimano breaks, but with drop bars and shifter brake combo or stand unless I'm willing to spend alot more money, then this is the best solution.


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## sdwhitey (Apr 3, 2010)

Agwan said:


> If the sliding drop outs are a pain, then you are definitely not experienced in any kind of bicycle with horizontal/adjustable drop outs. They're the lowest maintenance option available for such a bike.


Agwan.

Have you seen any official torque specs for the 4 bolts that tighten the sliding dropouts. I know paragon posts some specs for their dropouts but I read that the Wolverine dropouts are made by Tange. I am a new Wolverine owner. I plan slam to dropouts all the way forward (650b wheels) so I am not work about alignment but I was wondering how tight to crank the bolts.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Not everything has a precise torque spec. Especially huge chunks of Aluminum and steel covered in paint that may or may not effect the friction coefficient. I'd go with Paragons torque spec if you feel the need to torque these drops to a specific number. Otherwise, get them very tight.

Also, Paragons titanium bolts for their sliders will fit the tange ones, and they're fantastic.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


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## Ghost_Rider (May 26, 2009)

Anyone out there have that black frame? Or the thru axle fork yet?


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## boriss111 (Feb 7, 2017)

I am in the middle of the build of the orange wolverine with the thru axle fork. Unfortunately I am still waiting for some parts to arrive, so the 3/4 bike is decorating my living room for now.

As soon as I get the bike complete I'll post the picture and share impressions of the thru axle fork.


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## grubetown (Sep 22, 2013)

Not mine
Golden Saddle Rides: Matt's Blackened and Dirty SOMA Wolverine | The Radavist


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## WarPigs (Dec 21, 2005)

Hi, I tried the online bike fit calculator, seems like its pointing to 56cm frame, but seems like its a bit small. I read others taller than me fits a 58cm frame.
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp#results

Any suggestions? I prefer to have a more upright posture while cycling.

TIA


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## rmf17 (Mar 29, 2017)

Hey everyone, I also have a 'fit' question. I can't stop thinking about the Wolverine, but I'm a shortie at 5'3". The Soma website says the 50cm frame fits 5'4" and taller.... I am hoping to build it with 650b wheels which will help with standover, but I can't help but wonder if the reach will be too long. Am I a fool to buy this bike based on my size?!


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## MinesPunk (Jul 25, 2009)

Anyone have an idea of how much weight a Soma Wolverine can handle? I am 220 lbs. and will use this bike to haul one kid attached at the fork crown using a Yepp Mini Ridealong seat and tow two more kids with a trailer. Curious if this bike is up to the task or if I should convert my Redline Monocog Flight to do this.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

MinesPunk said:


> Anyone have an idea of how much weight a Soma Wolverine can handle? I am 220 lbs. and will use this bike to haul one kid attached at the fork crown using a Yepp Mini Ridealong seat and tow two more kids with a trailer. Curious if this bike is up to the task or if I should convert my Redline Monocog Flight to do this.


The Wolverine frame is a bit beefier being that it's intended use is Monstercross ish, but that is a question best asked directly to Soma IMO.


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## MinesPunk (Jul 25, 2009)

Thanks for the quick reply. I will check with them

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## MinesPunk (Jul 25, 2009)

Soma came back and let me know the frame can handle my weight. They aren't sure about using a fork crown mounted kid seat so I will stick the slightest kid there when needed. Anyone have sizing recommendations for someone 6'1" and a 34" pants inseam? Torso and arms are proportional to my height 

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## huntergatherer (Feb 20, 2016)

I've put together a list of people's sizes and frames they bought with some additional info over how these fit together, all here:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/SomaFabrications/comments/5s73hr

I hope that helps, as it's a tricky issue.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Hey guys. I seen this thread while trolling the internet and thought I would share my build after a long vacation from these forums. I built this last december when I sold my Vassago Fisticuff frame and fork and bought the Wolverine frame and fork. What a beauty to ride. So smooth and forgiving.

FWIW I am 6' tall with equal proportions and I am riding a 58 with an 80 mm Salsa guide stem/cowbell bars. I was told by many that a 56 frame size would fit me but my LBS said I would be better on a 58. I hesitated but trusted him and glad I did cause he was right! Had one loaded overnight tour so far and this thing rides awesome loaded or empty.


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## MinesPunk (Jul 25, 2009)

iowamtb said:


> Hey guys. I seen this thread while trolling the internet and thought I would share my build after a long vacation from these forums. I built this last december when I sold my Vassago Fisticuff frame and fork and bought the Wolverine frame and fork. What a beauty to ride. So smooth and forgiving.
> 
> FWIW I am 6' tall with equal proportions and I am riding a 58 with an 80 mm Salsa guide stem/cowbell bars. I was told by many that a 56 frame size would fit me but my LBS said I would be better on a 58. I hesitated but trusted him and glad I did cause he was right! Had one loaded overnight tour so far and this thing rides awesome loaded or empty.
> View attachment 1131369


I think I'm about the same size as you. Mind sharing your inseam length and what specifics drove you to the 58 instead of 56? Thanks in advance

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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

MinesPunk said:


> I think I'm about the same size as you. Mind sharing your inseam length and what specifics drove you to the 58 instead of 56? Thanks in advance
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


I was 6' 1/2" officially 8 years ago. At 46 I can't guarantee I haven't shrunk some lol . I have a 34" inseam and I am proportionate between my upper and lower torso so nothing looks longer or shorter than it should be lol. I had a Vassago Fisticuff prior that was an x large. I never could decide if that bike was too big for me or not. When I was at a Trek dealer in Omaha, on a Sunday to mail my frame and fork to the gent that bought it, I asked a workers opinion on what size frame they thought a guy like me might fit on. The guy asked my dimensions and looked at me and said I looked like a 56 would be a good size for me. I ordered the frame from my regular LBS, whom I have ridden with plenty of times and knows me fairly well, and I told him what I was told and he said he thought otherwise that a 58 would be a better choice. He gave various reasons regarding body angle, and other factors. I was hesitant. He said it was up to me that he could order a 56 for me if I wanted. I really trusted this guy so I took his advice on the 58. Honestly I think a 56 would have worked for me as well but this 58 is still one of the best riding, most comfortable bikes I have ever owned. Sorry for the long winded novel but you asked why I chose a 58 and I wanted to be specific. FWIW the ETT on this 58 wolverine is 6 mm longer than the ETT on my X Large Vassago that I sold. Even so it still feels comfy. Some of that is surely due to the awesome raked front fork and lower BB drop on the Wolverine. What can I say......It is a sweet sweet ride.

Edit...You notice my spacer stack? I wonder how many spacers I would need on a 56 to get my bars at the level I prefer? Another reason you might look into a 58. 140 mm HT length on a 56 vs a 165 on a 58.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

iowamtb said:


> View attachment 1131369


Nice! :thumbsup: Welcome back.


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## MinesPunk (Jul 25, 2009)

iowamtb said:


> I was 6' 1/2" officially 8 years ago. At 46 I can't guarantee I haven't shrunk some lol . I have a 34" inseam and I am proportionate between my upper and lower torso so nothing looks longer or shorter than it should be lol. I had a Vassago Fisticuff prior that was an x large. I never could decide if that bike was too big for me or not. When I was at a Trek dealer in Omaha, on a Sunday to mail my frame and fork to the gent that bought it, I asked a workers opinion on what size frame they thought a guy like me might fit on. The guy asked my dimensions and looked at me and said I looked like a 56 would be a good size for me. I ordered the frame from my regular LBS, whom I have ridden with plenty of times and knows me fairly well, and I told him what I was told and he said he thought otherwise that a 58 would be a better choice. He gave various reasons regarding body angle, and other factors. I was hesitant. He said it was up to me that he could order a 56 for me if I wanted. I really trusted this guy so I took his advice on the 58. Honestly I think a 56 would have worked for me as well but this 58 is still one of the best riding, most comfortable bikes I have ever owned. Sorry for the long winded novel but you asked why I chose a 58 and I wanted to be specific. FWIW the ETT on this 58 wolverine is 6 mm longer than the ETT on my X Large Vassago that I sold. Even so it still feels comfy. Some of that is surely due to the awesome raked front fork and lower BB drop on the Wolverine. What can I say......It is a sweet sweet ride.
> 
> Edit...You notice my spacer stack? I wonder how many spacers I would need on a 56 to get my bars at the level I prefer? Another reason you might look into a 58. 140 mm HT length on a 56 vs a 165 on a 58.


You and I have the exact same dimensions and proportions. I appreciate you taking the time to provide such a detailed answer. I am also leaning towards the 58 since I don't like to feel cramped on bikes. This will mainly be a touring/towing rig for me when I sell my 19.5 inch Redline Monocog Flight. I have noticed many people have a lot of spacers on the wolverine, I prefer a slammed stem aesthetic so I think going with a 58 is my better option. Figure it may also let me try out some alt bars to keep myself from getting bored in the future.

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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

MinesPunk said:


> You and I have the exact same dimensions and proportions. I appreciate you taking the time to provide such a detailed answer. I am also leaning towards the 58 since I don't like to feel cramped on bikes. This will mainly be a touring/towing rig for me when I sell my 19.5 inch Redline Monocog Flight. I have noticed many people have a lot of spacers on the wolverine, I prefer a slammed stem aesthetic so I think going with a 58 is my better option. Figure it may also let me try out some alt bars to keep myself from getting bored in the future.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


I used to feel that way about slammed spacer stacks but lately have been migrating towards the traditional Randonneuring type of look. UW and u won't regret buying a Wolvie!


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Nice! :thumbsup: Welcome back.


Thanks.


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## MinesPunk (Jul 25, 2009)

iowamtb said:


> I used to feel that way about slammed spacer stacks but lately have been migrating towards the traditional Randonneuring type of look. UW and u won't regret buying a Wolvie!


I definitely dig the look but also enjoy the steering feel. As I age I am sure my back will require more spacers and I will become less aggressive in my riding. Towing my twin 20 month old boys has already helped with that to an extent

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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

MinesPunk said:


> I definitely dig the look but also enjoy the steering feel. As I age I am sure my back will require more spacers and I will become less aggressive in my riding. Towing my twin 20 month old boys has already helped with that to an extent
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


Getting old's a ***** lol


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## traff_ss (Oct 2, 2010)

Thought I'd throw my build into the mix. I'm starting out SS, but someday will add gears in the back (1x). I love this bike so far!

















52cm Wolverine with Soma Fork (I'm 5'8")
FSA Pig Headset Black, 1 1/8"
SRAM /TruVativ Team GXP Bottom Bracket
SRAM FC S350-1 GXP X-Sync Chainring 42 Tooth
NINER COGALICIOUS COGS 20T Rear Cog
Wheels: Giant P-XC29-2 rims/Tracker hubs
Shimano Tiagra/Sora R400 Road Brake Lever Set
Tires: Challenge Gravel Grinder Race 700x38
SRAM PC-870 6/7/8 Speed Chain Silver/Gray, 
Shimano XT SM-RT86 6 Bolt Ice-Tech Rotor 6 Bolt Style, 160mm 
Shimano Cyclocross BR-CX77 Disc Brake Calipers
WTB Rocket Race Saddle Black, 142mm 
Ritchey Comp Link Alloy Seatpost Black, 27.2, 400 
Fizik Endurance Bar Tape Black


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

traff_ss said:


> Thought I'd throw my build into the mix. I'm starting out SS, but someday will add gears in the back (1x). I love this bike so far!
> 
> View attachment 1131732
> 
> ...


Nice!


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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

*Sheared Chain Stay*

*Beware wolverine riders!
*


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## MinesPunk (Jul 25, 2009)

sellwinerugs said:


> *Beware wolverine riders!
> *
> View attachment 1132806


Definitely need the story on how this happens and whether Soma warranties the frame

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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I know of one other guy this happened to, Soma warrantied it quickly. I'd get ahold of them.

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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

This isn't really a Wolverine issue, I've seen it happen to a lot of steel gravel bikes. It's what we get when we ask a road bike to also be a mountain bike. It should still be warrantied regardless. Awol has it happen once in a blue moon as well.

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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Was there any indication that this was starting to happen or did it just snap suddenly? Did it cause you to get in a bad wreck? Hopefully nobody was hurt. Were you off roading or were you just simply riding on gravel?


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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

Yes, SOMA is replacing the frame, no questions asked. I was not riding hard or even pedaling hard. I use my Wolverine mostly as commuter, and was riding home from work on a flat road. I think this kind of flaw is unacceptable, though I have heard of it happening before. 

I'm glad I wasn't a) far from home, b) in a place where there was no other way to get home, and c) not going faster or in heavy traffic or rough-roading. 

SOMA is requesting that I cut the frame in half and send them a picture. They say they can't be responsible for this frame any more now that it's compromised. 

I would prefer to repair the chainstay ($200 local frame builder, totally worth it) and sign a release waiver saying I wouldn't sue for any future damage, but they insist I destroy the frame.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

sellwinerugs said:


> Yes, SOMA is replacing the frame, no questions asked. I was not riding hard or even pedaling hard. I use my Wolverine mostly as commuter, and was riding home from work on a flat road. I think this kind of flaw is unacceptable, though I have heard of it happening before.
> 
> I'm glad I wasn't a) far from home, b) in a place where there was no other way to get home, and c) not going faster or in heavy traffic or rough-roading.
> 
> ...


Soma's frames are built in Taiwan which is a good thing apparently for imported frames. Tange Prestige tubing is also supposed to be stronger and lighter (The steel walls are thinner) and I believe it may also be heat treated where as standard 4130 is not? Someone feel free to chime in and correct me if I am wrong. It is possible that the frame manufacturer got a bad batch of tubing. I am not sure if they receive it heat treated or if they heat treat it after assembly? Either way I am guessing it was either a bad batch or a faulty heat treatment as it appears to have broken in the middle not at a weld.

Theres another member of this forum, who I cannot remember his name, that had a Soma Juice snap in half on the TT several years ago. It was all over the internet of course and some others stated that "this was not the first one they have heard of" at the time. But I believe I heard that Soma remedied the issue and I have not heard of anything since. I also have a B Side V3 and have put it through some fairly rough paces and even some hard jumps and so far , knock on wood, it is still going strong.


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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

iowamtb said:


> Was there any indication that this was starting to happen or did it just snap suddenly? Did it cause you to get in a bad wreck? Hopefully nobody was hurt. Were you off roading or were you just simply riding on gravel?


This was a quick snap. No indication that there was anything wrong. I am a fastidious bike owner, and I inspect my frames regularly. This was a flaw with the steel, I'm thinking some imperfection in the actual metal.

I think SOMA underspec'd the strength of the chainstays in an attempt to keep weight lower.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

sellwinerugs said:


> This was a quick snap. No indication that there was anything wrong. I am a fastidious bike owner, and I inspect my frames regularly. This was a flaw with the steel, I'm thinking some imperfection in the actual metal.
> 
> I think SOMA underspec'd the strength of the chainstays in an attempt to keep weight lower.


Could be although the Wolverine frame set is not their lightest. It weighs more than my B Side frame does, I believe, but I could be wrong.


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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

iowamtb said:


> Soma's frames are built in Taiwan which is a good thing apparently for imported frames. Tange Prestige tubing is also supposed to be stronger and lighter (The steel walls are thinner) and I believe it may also be heat treated where as standard 4130 is not? Someone feel free to chime in and correct me if I am wrong. It is possible that the frame manufacturer got a bad batch of tubing. I am not sure if they receive it heat treated or if they heat treat it after assembly? Either way I am opting for either a bad batch or a faulty heat treatment as it appears to have broken in the middle not at a weld.
> 
> Theres another member of this forum, who I cannot remember his name, that had a Soma Juice snap in half on the TT several years ago. It was all over the internet of course and some others stated that "this was not the first one they have heard of" at the time. But I believe I heard that Soma remedied the isue and I have not heard of anything since. I also have a B Side V3 and have put it through some fairly rough paces and even some hard jumps and so far , knock on wood, it is still going strong.


It broke at the vent hole on the inside of the chainstay. Not sure what those holes are for, perhaps a manufacturing hole?


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

sellwinerugs said:


> It broke at the vent hole on the inside of the chainstay. Not sure what those holes are for, perhaps a manufacturing hole?


They are to let moisture drain out. Any time, from my past steel experience, that you have a hole, you can have what they call "stress risers". If the hole had a tiny tiny edge that was not perfectly round for some reason, say a round hole with one section having an "angle" in it like an octagon (manufacturing defect obviously) then that could have caused a stress riser that weakened the frame at that point and allowed it to snap. Thats why a part with a smooth radiused edge will be stronger than one with a 90 degree edge.


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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

Agwan said:


> This isn't really a Wolverine issue, I've seen it happen to a lot of steel gravel bikes. It's what we get when we ask a road bike to also be a mountain bike. It should still be warrantied regardless. Awol has it happen once in a blue moon as well.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


What do you mean "when we ask a road bike to also be a mountain bike"? Are you referring to geometry compromises?

I have only taken this bike off road a few times (literally less than 5 times), and those were smooth gravel rides. I commute on city streets 99% of time. I don't abuse my bikes. If a frame can't hold up to that, I don't want it. I think this was just a bad batch of Tange.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

That's a common point of failure. I broke my Kona Unit chainstay clean through last year at the vent hole just like yours. It's likely not a design flaw, or a tubing defect, but a welding error. It's not hard to over-heat a tube when tig welding and weaken the tube. 

Some bad info above. That is definitely in the heat affected zone from welding and likely contributed to the failure. 

How old is your frame? Was it treated internally with frame saver? 

The vent holes on the chainstay are to allow gas to escape during the welding process, they're on the side of the tube, not the bottom like a drain would be. The only time a hole is meant to drain fluid is if it's at the bottom of a tube or a drain hole in the bottom of the BB shell, which i've drilled into a couple frames myself. I live and ride in a wet environment frequently and want to let the water out.

This kind of thing happens. If it was a design flaw it would be more common. it's scary but wouldn't stop me from buying one, which i'm still considering. 

I'm glad Soma is taking care of you. I would respect their wishes and destroy the frame. All manufacturers request this and most require you to cut the BB out of the frame and ship it to them. (alternately, if you decide to have it repaired and it fails, don't post it all over the internet. That's their biggest fear, aside from someone getting injured.)

Frame Saver the new frame. It's unlikely you'll get another defect, but it's worth it to me for piece of mind if you plan to keep the frame long term.


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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

*OneSpeed* said:


> That's a common point of failure. I broke my Kona Unit chainstay clean through last year at the vent hole just like yours. It's likely not a design flaw, or a tubing defect, but a welding error. It's not hard to over-heat a tube when tig welding and weaken the tube.
> 
> Some bad info above. That is definitely in the heat affected zone from welding and likely contributed to the failure.
> 
> ...


Very helpful comment! Thank you. Frame was purchased in August 2016. I have never heard of Frame Saver, but I will treat my new bike. I hope to have the bike a long time. I love my Wolverine and can't wait to be back in the saddle on one. For now I'm riding my vintage tourer "Townie." Just not the same . . .


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

ugh, that sucks. I was hoping it was older. At least i broke mine on a chunky offroad downhill. I beat the snot out of that thing and it finally gave up. 

if it's any consolation, I broke three frames last year. two steel and one aluminum. like I said, **** happens.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

*OneSpeed* said:


> That's a common point of failure. I broke my Kona Unit chainstay clean through last year at the vent hole just like yours. It's likely not a design flaw, or a tubing defect, but a welding error. It's not hard to over-heat a tube when tig welding and weaken the tube.
> 
> Some bad info above. That is definitely in the heat affected zone from welding and likely contributed to the failure.
> 
> ...


You're right that was some bad information on my part and I apologize. Come to think of it I do remember hearing that those holes were for gas to escape when welding some years ago but I had forgotten all about that. I didn't use frame saver on my Wolverine frame but it is the first steel frame I have bought that I didn't do that too. I wonder if I shouldn't buy a can and strip my bike back down to the bare frame and go ahead and treat it?


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

No big deal, minor difference. 

BTW it's not a bad idea to cover those holes with electrical tape. just make sure the frame is good and dry so your not trapping moisture in there.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

*OneSpeed* said:


> No big deal, minor difference.
> 
> BTW it's not a bad idea to cover those holes with electrical tape. just make sure the frame is good and dry so your not trapping moisture in there.


Stupid question but can a hollow tube frame build up condensation from temperature differences over time? If not and you wanted to block the holes just stick a little dab of silicone in there or something


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

iowamtb said:


> Stupid question but can a hollow tube frame build up condensation from temperature differences over time? If not and you wanted to block the holes just stick a little dab of silicone in there or something


yeah, there's all kinds of ways for moisture to get in there. seatpost, BB, vent holes, rack/fender/bottle cage mounts. That's why if you live in a wet climate (especially salty) it's important to coat the inside of the frame IMO. Some manufacturers put drain holes in the bottom of the BB shell. I've even seen them on aluminum frames. It's not a bad idea.

Many new steel frames are coming with the ED coating inside the frame which helps, but frame saver (or Boeshields T-9 I've read) is the best way to protect the frame.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Lemond poprad
Specialized Awol
Specialized rockhopper
Specialized Stumpjumper
Soma Wolverine
Kona jake
Kona Honky Tonk
Surly cross check
Surly steamroller

I can go on, a heat treated tube got overheated while being welded. Because steel has to be welded by hand. And humans are imperfect. None of those bikes are bad. Just a few bikes I've seen this failure on.

Because human error is to blame, it should still be warrantied. But it is not evidence of a nefarious systemic failure or design flaw.

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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

you can add Salsa El Mariachi to that list, and every Lynskey ever made. 

I've also recently seen 3-4 carbon frames with cracks including good names like Niner and Pivot. 

I've talked to a few frame builders recently, a couple of which were not fans of tig welding. they favored filet brazing because it uses much less heat and thus does not weaken the tubes as easily. Of course a skilled builder can use any method or material, but there is a certain failure rate on mass produced frames made overseas. stuff happens.


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## MinesPunk (Jul 25, 2009)

*OneSpeed* said:


> you can add Salsa El Mariachi to that list, and every Lynskey ever made.
> 
> I've also recently seen 3-4 carbon frames with cracks including good names like Niner and Pivot.
> 
> I've talked to a few frame builders recently, a couple of which were not fans of tig welding. they favored filet brazing because it uses much less heat and thus does not weaken the tubes as easily. Of course a skilled builder can use any method or material, but there is a certain failure rate on mass produced frames made overseas. stuff happens.


Surprisingly my Lynskey road bike is still going strong. I am expecting to sell it soon. At this point I need good customer support. Can't get that with Redline anymore so the Lynskey and Monocog are on the chopping block and the Wolverine will likely replace them both

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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

MinesPunk said:


> Surprisingly&#8230;


exactly, seems people just buy them expecting them to crack. They made a TON of frames and honestly i have no idea if their failure rate is any higher than anyone else, but I sure do hear about it a lot. I was temped by the low prices recently but was strongly warned to steer clear.

I know there are plenty of happy customers out there though. Hard to hate on a Ti frame at those prices. besides, in many cases it can be welded.


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## MinesPunk (Jul 25, 2009)

*OneSpeed* said:


> exactly, seems people just buy them expecting them to crack. They made a TON of frames and honestly i have no idea if their failure rate is any higher than anyone else, but I sure do hear about it a lot. I was temped by the low prices recently but was strongly warned to steer clear.
> 
> I know there are plenty of happy customers out there though. Hard to hate on a Ti frame at those prices. besides, in many cases it can be welded.


Yeah, it has been a great bike for me. If it accepted discs and wider tires I would never get rid of it. I am lucky enough to not need any custom geometry and that bike fits me like a glove

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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

deleted


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

My current setup 
1x11 with XT rd and Microshift MTB bar end - works perfectly!

36t Wolftooth chainring, definitely easy to spin out on flat ground, but climbs easy enough.

Finally got some compressionless housing for the Spyre brakes, and bumped up to a 180mm front rotor, RT56, as specified by Shimano for the pads in the Spyre. Tektro levers work much better with these brakes than 5700 too - I think the Shimano SLR pull ratio is not standard road pull ratio. All in all, it definitely stops well enough, but still nowhere nearly as well as a halfway decent set of hydraulics. Kinda lusting over the new Hylex RS, would love to hear some real reviews, if anyone here has used them.

I also up-ed the tires, and went with the Nine Lines - super fast big tires, and they ride great with 25psi. Still rocking the WTB i23 with XT hubs, pretty great setup for me. Soaks up all the rough roads Oakland can dish up, with nary a hiccup. Not much room for mud though, and I've been thinking about going with something smaller to be able to slide the axle further forward.

This bike is pretty much in Commute mode for good now, since I recently bought an MTB to handle off-road duties. Hence the Blackburn rack, to carry my daughter in the baby seat, and the Saint pedals, for easy neighborhood rides.

Also curious about the new thru-axle fork. I would love to stiffen up the front end, but SOMA claims tire clearance would take a hit - not sure how I feel about that, but I suppose it would probably be fine with a normal size gravel tire, which I will probably switch to when I wear out these Nine Lines. Anyone out there have the new fork installed yet, and if so, how is it? Definitely curious about tire clearance, stiffness compared to the original fork, and overall worthiness - is it worth the $200 plus a new wheel/hub?


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## rmf17 (Mar 29, 2017)

*New Soma Wolverine build - loving it!*








Not sure if this pic of my new build posted... but I'm loving her so far!


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

rmf17 said:


> Not sure if this pic of my new build posted... but I'm loving her so far!


Pic posted - I dig the black and brown theme!


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## rmf17 (Mar 29, 2017)

I do too - though I feel I need to introduce some colour somewhere lol! I'm going to load her up soon for a weekend overnighter so my extra gear should do the trick


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## SteveJfromtheSwitch (Feb 8, 2012)

good to see some new pics, needing inspiration! planning a new commuter build and have come here for ideas


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## theMotoMan (Feb 21, 2008)

I am very interested in the Wolverine, but I have a concern about the short head tube. I see lots of pics with tons of stem spacers. I am one of those guys with shorter legs and a long torso. I used to have a Schwinn Fastback CX that had a compact frame and a 57cm top tube and a 155mm head tube and I still had to put several spacers under the stem. Any feedback on that?


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

It's not custom tuned to your body. The headtube is a couple centimeters taller than a Stragglers, but it is what it is. If you have an issue with the aesthetics. You'll need to make that choice on your own.

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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

UPDDATE



sellwinerugs said:


> *Beware wolverine riders!
> *
> View attachment 1132806


I got my frame in the mail (no new fork though). Had to pay $50 to get BB shell threads chased and headset and bottom bracket swapped over at my local shop because I am not a bicycle mechanic. Luckily for me I was able to get the other components on but will probably spend another $30 - $40 on a tune up to make sure it's all in place.

I contacted SOMA hoping they would cover these costs, but they can only warranty the frame.

Can someone explain why should a customer should be out another $80 - $90 of their own money for a defective frame that SOMA sold them?

Customer service at SOMA is poor at best. Does not bode well for future relationship between me and SOMA. Should have gone with the Straggler.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

sellwinerugs said:


> UPDDATE
> 
> I got my frame in the mail (no new fork though). Had to pay $50 to get BB shell threads chased and headset and bottom bracket swapped over at my local shop because I am not a bicycle mechanic. Luckily for me I was able to get the other components on but will probably spend another $30 - $40 on a tune up to make sure it's all in place.
> 
> ...


You got a free replacement frame, IMO they took care of the customer. Most companies will make you pay for shipping of the replacement frame, and your on your own for parts swap/assembly. You can't reasonably expect them to do much more. Your experience would not be any different with another company.

**** happens, frames break. Instead of being sour, enjoy your shiny new frame. Treat it with frame saver, and smile every time you ride it. Otherwise perhaps you should take up jogging.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

sellwinerugs said:


> UPDDATE
> 
> I got my frame in the mail (no new fork though). Had to pay $50 to get BB shell threads chased and headset and bottom bracket swapped over at my local shop because I am not a bicycle mechanic. Luckily for me I was able to get the other components on but will probably spend another $30 - $40 on a tune up to make sure it's all in place.
> 
> ...


I think part of the labor should have been covered by the shop - SOMA can help them out directly too. A skilled mechanic with proper tools should be able to swap parts in less than an hour - pretty sure my shop would cover that cost. But, I also bought my frame and most of my parts from them, not to mention 2 other bikes, and a ton of tires, tubes, and random other things.

That whole process should have been somewhat streamlined though - you take the broken frame back to the shop that you bought it from, they swap parts, and next day you walk out a happy customer.

But **** happens, every shop is different, and SOMA has always been a little "whatever" about their customers. Sorry you didn't have a better experience.


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## sellwinerugs (Aug 14, 2016)

*OneSpeed* said:


> You got a free replacement frame, IMO they took care of the customer. Most companies will make you pay for shipping of the replacement frame, and your on your own for parts swap/assembly. You can't reasonably expect them to do much more. Your experience would not be any different with another company.
> 
> **** happens, frames break. Instead of being sour, enjoy your shiny new frame. Treat it with frame saver, and smile every time you ride it. Otherwise perhaps you should take up jogging.


You've got a point, I am generally happy with the bike, but I'm not just some whiny sissy. I essentially paid $100 more than any other Wolverine rider for the privilege of having a defective frame.

Edit: Situation has been amicably resolved with SOMA.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

sellwinerugs said:


> Edit: Situation has been amicably resolved with SOMA.


Glad to hear they took care of you.

Unrelated, here's a random question for the Wolverine crowd... does anyone else's sliding dropouts not align quite perfectly? If I put the rear axle all the way forward or all the way back in the sliders, the wheel won't quite align in the chainstays. Nudging the NDS forward a few mms or the drive side aft a few mms fixes this. Bike rides fine, tracks straight, and has no signs of cracks. Been like this since day one. I did the "string around the seat tube" and "string around the headtube" alignment tests, and it seems straight as an arrow on my pretty low tech test.

Again, not a huge concern for me, just wondering if anyone else's is like this too.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> Glad to hear they took care of you.
> 
> Unrelated, here's a random question for the Wolverine crowd... does anyone else's sliding dropouts not align quite perfectly? If I put the rear axle all the way forward or all the way back in the sliders, the wheel won't quite align in the chainstays. Nudging the NDS forward a few mms or the drive side aft a few mms fixes this. Bike rides fine, tracks straight, and has no signs of cracks. Been like this since day one. I did the "string around the seat tube" and "string around the headtube" alignment tests, and it seems straight as an arrow on my pretty low tech test.
> 
> Again, not a huge concern for me, just wondering if anyone else's is like this too.


Yep mine is the same way. I believe my fisticuff was as well. I asked my LBS who ordered my frame for me and he explained it as something to do with being built that way to account for torque and flex. He knew what he was saying but I just cannot remember exactly how he put it. He said most frames are built that way.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

iowamtb said:


> Yep mine is the same way. I believe my fisticuff was as well. I asked my LBS who ordered my frame for me and he explained it as something to do with being built that way to account for torque and flex. He knew what he was saying but I just cannot remember exactly how he put it. He said most frames are built that way.


Thanks for the background info, I've never heard that before. Still seems strange that the sliders aren't perfectly square though. Definitely threw me for a loop when I first built it up and saw that the wheel didn't sit evenly between the stays with the sliders at either extreme end. I almost thought my wheel was dished weird at first! Thanks again for the info!


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> Thanks for the background info, I've never heard that before. Still seems strange that the sliders aren't perfectly square though. Definitely threw me for a loop when I first built it up and saw that the wheel didn't sit evenly between the stays with the sliders at either extreme end. I almost thought my wheel was dished weird at first! Thanks again for the info!


You're welcome. It threw me for a loop as well that's why I asked LOL


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## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

I call BS on this. By this rationale, you should set your wheel out of alignment to account for torque or flex? It's just production tolerance.



iowamtb said:


> Yep mine is the same way. I believe my fisticuff was as well. I asked my LBS who ordered my frame for me and he explained it as something to do with being built that way to account for torque and flex. He knew what he was saying but I just cannot remember exactly how he put it. He said most frames are built that way.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

seat_boy said:


> I call BS on this. By this rationale, you should set your wheel out of alignment to account for torque or flex? It's just production tolerance.


No you don't set your wheel out of alignment. He is saying that when his wheel is centered it does not appear to be centered in the sliders. It is a tiny tiny amounts only the anal people will notice it.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

are we sure this is not a wheel dish issue? I understand minor manufacturer defects, most frames have them, but I've not heard of intentionally offsetting dropouts for torque.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

*OneSpeed* said:


> are we sure this is not a wheel dish issue? I understand minor manufacturer defects, most frames have them, but I've not heard of intentionally offsetting dropouts for torque.


No actually what prompted me to ask my LBS was.....being EXTREMELY ANAL (maybe too much).....I noticed that when I had the wheel centered in the chain stays, not only was the sliders a tiny bit off but it wouldn't necessarily be centered either on the upper part of the seat tube or on the seat stays. If I centered it up high it was off fraction down low. By fraction I mean maybe a 32nd of an inch. Nothing to worry about but I thought my frame was "twisted" slightly. My bike shop mechanic assured me that a lot of frames seemed to be this way. He said his Vassago Jaberwaky was the same way. I may have erred when I said "he knew what he was saying". Let's put it this way, when I asked him the question, he wasn't surprised or didn't look like he was clueless. He immediately had an answer. I think he was saying that it was very common or "normal" and I think he was assuming it was something to do with what he told me. He is good friends personally with Tom, who owns Vassago cycles, so maybe Tom had told him this once? I don't know this but I am just guessing at where he may have heard the info that he gave me.


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## rrrrrok (Jan 9, 2016)

I'm planning a wolverine build and I'm trying to decide between QR and thru-axle -- those who have built up with thru-axles, which hubs and axles did you use? The frame specs say 135x10 in the rear, and from what I can tell Hope hubs are pretty much the only option. Or can you fit a 142x12 somehow? Seems like you'd have to bend the frame out? 

Any opinions whether the new thru-axle fork is worth it? I plan on using it for a good cross section of riding... road, gravel, touring.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

I'm no expert but I never understood what you gained by going with a thru axle on a bike like this. It's not like you're putting it through the stuff you're going to be putting a full suspension mountain bike through where you need the extra stiffness. This is just me asking a question someone help me understand.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

rrrrrok said:


> I'm planning a wolverine build and I'm trying to decide between QR and thru-axle -- those who have built up with thru-axles, which hubs and axles did you use? The frame specs say 135x10 in the rear, and from what I can tell Hope hubs are pretty much the only option. Or can you fit a 142x12 somehow? Seems like you'd have to bend the frame out?
> 
> Any opinions whether the new thru-axle fork is worth it? I plan on using it for a good cross section of riding... road, gravel, touring.


You can get different sliders for the rear drop outs to get 142x12 - easy swap. SOMA used to have the part #s you needed on their site too, but I think they took them down a while ago. I bet they would tell you though, if you emailed.

I am also curious about the thruaxle fork - SOMA says that tire clearance is reduced, which might not be ideal for me. But, the regular qr fork is super flexy, so I am tempted to try the thru axle fork anyway. If you build one, let us know how it goes!


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I'm very tempted by the thru axle fork also. That front fork under my weight flexes alot when I'm breaking and I think that adds to the front break squeal. 

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## rrrrrok (Jan 9, 2016)

SpeedyStein said:


> You can get different sliders for the rear drop outs to get 142x12 - easy swap. SOMA used to have the part #s you needed on their site too, but I think they took them down a while ago. I bet they would tell you though, if you emailed.


Sure, but the frame itself is made to fit a 135mm wide hub. So adding a thru-axle dropout doesn't change that. How do you get an extra 7mm? Seems like I'm missing something obvious here 

The paragon site also says that you can use the 142mm axle on a 135mm frame/hub, but does this mean that 7mm of the axle sticks out on one end?

I suppose the obvious option is to perhaps use a thru-axle fork and a standard QR hub in the back.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

rrrrrok said:


> Sure, but the frame itself is made to fit a 135mm wide hub. So adding a thru-axle dropout doesn't change that. How do you get an extra 7mm? Seems like I'm missing something obvious here
> 
> The paragon site also says that you can use the 142mm axle on a 135mm frame/hub, but does this mean that 7mm of the axle sticks out on one end?
> 
> I suppose the obvious option is to perhaps use a thru-axle fork and a standard QR hub in the back.


I think the sliding dropouts are offset to make the extra width. The frame stays the same, the dropout is shaped differently than the 135mm ones. The 135mm sliders basically go straight down from the connection with the frame, and I think the 142 ones flare outward from the frame. Maybe someone who actually has them can clarify/post a pic?


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## joesno-flats (May 20, 2017)

SpeedyStein said:


> Glad to hear they took care of you.
> 
> Unrelated, here's a random question for the Wolverine crowd... does anyone else's sliding dropouts not align quite perfectly? If I put the rear axle all the way forward or all the way back in the sliders, the wheel won't quite align in the chainstays. Nudging the NDS forward a few mms or the drive side aft a few mms fixes this. Bike rides fine, tracks straight, and has no signs of cracks. Been like this since day one. I did the "string around the seat tube" and "string around the headtube" alignment tests, and it seems straight as an arrow on my pretty low tech test.
> 
> Again, not a huge concern for me, just wondering if anyone else's is like this too.


mine same, but its no big deal. but, the up and down axis of rear dropouts is not straight. i use a small, approx 1mm pc of plastic, inserted between axle and dropout on disc side, to make the wheel centered between the seat stays


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

joesno-flats said:


> mine same, but its no big deal. but, the up and down axis of rear dropouts is not straight. i use a small, approx 1mm pc of plastic, inserted between axle and dropout on disc side, to make the wheel centered between the seat stays


That's a good idea! I thought about filing the paint off the inside of one side of the dropouts, but I like your idea better.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

rrrrrok said:


> Sure, but the frame itself is made to fit a 135mm wide hub. So adding a thru-axle dropout doesn't change that. How do you get an extra 7mm? Seems like I'm missing something obvious here


The dropouts are different but still fit in the frame. Each side is offset 3.5mm to accommodate the wider hub.



SpeedyStein said:


> I think the sliding dropouts are offset to make the extra width. The frame stays the same, the dropout is shaped differently than the 135mm ones. The 135mm sliders basically go straight down from the connection with the frame, and I think the 142 ones flare outward from the frame. Maybe someone who actually has them can clarify/post a pic?


close, not flared, just offset.



joesno-flats said:


> mine same, but its no big deal. but, the up and down axis of rear dropouts is not straight. i use a small, approx 1mm pc of plastic, inserted between axle and dropout on disc side, to make the wheel centered between the seat stays


That's not a great idea. It sounds like the dish on your rear wheel is off, not that the dropouts are off. Take your wheel to a bike shop and have it checked.


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## joesno-flats (May 20, 2017)

yes, off center wheel is a possibility, but i have a few wheels, and the wheel is straight.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

*OneSpeed* said:


> That's not a great idea. It sounds like the dish on your rear wheel is off, not that the dropouts are off. Take your wheel to a bike shop and have it checked.


I know that for my situation, it's the frame, not the wheel. I've used multiple wheels on my Wolverine, and also used the same wheels on two other bikes - both with standard rear drop outs. Perhaps the Wolverine is setup to have a non-standard dish? Unlike joesno-flats, my bike is only off in one dimension, so just keeping one slider a smidge further forward than the other entirely solves my problem - sounds like his is off on the vertical axis as well. I still think that maybe SOMA's QC probably isn't up to the same standard that others might be - could be part of how they can offer a high quality steel frame at what is a bargain compared to similar offerings. Would also explain the tube failure above too, and the paint that chips when you look at it.

But, other than the few items I've mentioned earlier in this thread, this is a pretty awesome bike, and SOMA was early to the game with a bike that fits huge tires with low, long, and slack geo meant for drop bars. I think a Wolverine 2.0 would be nice, maybe with shorter stays (read: 29x2.1 tire clearance with 425mm stays), standard dropouts with better placed rack mounts, and a stiffer fork. Boost hub spacing would help modernize this frame by allowing for more wheel compatibility, and stiffen up the available wheels and frame, but that spec would also pigeon hole it into a more off-road dedicated bike. But, isn't that the point of this bike - an off road ready touring-ish bike? While we are dreaming, how about Shimano make a dedicated 1x11/12 group that isn't electronic or a hodgepodge?

Ok, end babble, time to go ride.


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## Greg878 (Apr 21, 2017)

*2017 Soma Wolverine build 56cm. SRAM 1x11 and fat tires!!*

Just finished a magnificent matte black Wolverine build, done 100 or so miles on it and it's pretty darn good!!!


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## Greg878 (Apr 21, 2017)

I just built a 2017 Wolverine with the 15mm thru axle fork, much beefier than the standard drop out fork, no flexing, and I'm running a 180 disc w/hydro SRAM up front and 160 disc out back.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Greg878 said:


> I just built a 2017 Wolverine with the 15mm thru axle fork, much beefier than the standard drop out fork, no flexing, and I'm running a 180 disc w/hydro SRAM up front and 160 disc out back.


Nice! How is the tire clearance compared to the standard fork?


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## Greg878 (Apr 21, 2017)

*40cc clement xplor MSO's*



SpeedyStein said:


> Nice! How is the tire clearance compared to the standard fork?


I'm running 40cc clement xplor MSO's on 700cc HED wheels with I9 CX disc hubs...there's room for bigger tires with the 15mm thru axle fork. I also opted for Paragon 142x12 solid axle rear drops. These are the same drops another bike company I frequent uses...Vassago cycles in AZ uses Paragon drops on their MTB frames. I just ordered one of their Donnybrook gravel frames. Going to build it up similar to the Wolverine and see what's what between the two. How does one post pics to go with the thread? I've got pics of the Wolverine build...


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Greg878 said:


> I'm running 40cc clement xplor MSO's on 700cc HED wheels with I9 CX disc hubs...there's room for bigger tires with the 15mm thru axle fork. I also opted for Paragon 142x12 solid axle rear drops. These are the same drops another bike company I frequent uses...Vassago cycles in AZ uses Paragon drops on their MTB frames. I just ordered one of their Donnybrook gravel frames. Going to build it up similar to the Wolverine and see what's what between the two. How does one post pics to go with the thread? I've got pics of the Wolverine build...


The easiest way to post pics is to use a web hosting service like Shutterfly or Photobucket. Then you can just copy the link for the pic on the hosting service and then paste it into your post.

There are actually quite a few frame builders using the sliding dropouts these days. They are great for disc and single speed at the same time, but I think for pretty much any other application I am going stick to traditional dropouts on my next bike.

I am thinking pretty hard about transitioning to thru axle, just to stiffen everything up a little. Would love to ride a bike with the thru axle fork, just for comparison. I would basically need to buy everything though - fork, wheels, tires, and dropouts. Would be a pretty expensive operation for a bike that is basically now just a commuter with some dirt mixed in every so often.


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## Greg878 (Apr 21, 2017)

Here's a pic of the clearance on the thru axle
IMG_2715.JPG. I have a Steel Vassago Fisticuff with 33cc Clement xplor USH's and skewers front and rear. VS the solid axle (front and rear) Wolverine...I like riding both bikes. The thing that makes it for me are the bigger tires on the Wolverine combined with the solid feed back from the axles when the trail gets some good roll to it it. The Wolverine just feels a bit more well sorted underneath you. That's the.best way to describe it. I've had plenty of epic rides on the Fisticuff too, but it's a little different experience in terms of how solid the ride on the thru axles is....not better, just different. I hope that makes sense. IMG_2714.JPG

It was about another $70 to switch the Tange drops to the 142x12 Paragon drops and then add the shimano rear axle. (Price for the rear axle and revised Paragon sliding drops). The optional Wolverine fork was on biketiresdirect.com for $189 and it came with the axle. So it is a bit of an out lay to go solid axle vs just keeping it economical and running good old skewers. Another solid axle bike is this Ti Vassago TKO. It will take big tires too but I mostly use this for road riding on 28cc Panaracers. IMG_2707.JPG
Here's the Fisticuff of these pics actually work...IMG_2543.JPG


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Greg878 said:


> Here's a pic of the clearance on the thru axle
> IMG_2715.JPG. I have a Steel Vassago Fisticuff with 33cc Clement xplor USH's and skewers front and rear. VS the solid axle (front and rear) Wolverine...I like riding both bikes. The thing that makes it for me are the bigger tires on the Wolverine combined with the solid feed back from the axles when the trail gets some good roll to it it. The Wolverine just feels a bit more well sorted underneath you. That's the.best way to describe it. I've had plenty of epic rides on the Fisticuff too, but it's a little different experience in terms of how solid the ride on the thru axles is....not better, just different. I hope that makes sense. IMG_2714.JPG
> 
> It was about another $70 to switch the Tange drops to the 142x12 Paragon drops and then add the shimano rear axle. (Price for the rear axle and revised Paragon sliding drops). The optional Wolverine fork was on biketiresdirect.com for $189 and it came with the axle. So it is a bit of an out lay to go solid axle vs just keeping it economical and running good old skewers. Another solid axle bike is this Ti Vassago TKO. It will take big tires too but I mostly use this for road riding on 28cc Panaracers. IMG_2707.JPG
> Here's the Fisticuff of these pics actually work...IMG_2543.JPG


Your pictures didn't make it... if you post them to photobucket, from the app you just select the picture you want to share, and on the bottom toolbar there is a little i with a circle around it. Poke that button and a screen pops up with a bunch of different links - I usually use the IMG link - it gives you the URL that web browsers will translate into your picture.

I thought pretty hard about the Fisticuff when I ordered the Wolverine, but it was the tire clearance that sold me on the Wolverine. Plus I couldn't find a local shop to order the Fisticuff for me, and SOMA is literally 45 minutes away.

But yeah, to convert to thru axle now would probably cost me $5-600, since I would need wheels and probably smaller tires too. I'm currently running 29x2.25 nine lines, which are awesome, but I doubt they would fit into the new fork, and I want to slide my sliders all the way forward again to get back my nimble Wolverine.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

SpeedyStein said:


> I think a Wolverine 2.0 would be nice, maybe with shorter stays (read: 29x2.1 tire clearance with 425mm stays), standard dropouts with better placed rack mounts, and a stiffer fork. Boost hub spacing would help modernize this frame by allowing for more wheel compatibility, and stiffen up the available wheels and frame, but that spec would also pigeon hole it into a more off-road dedicated bike. But, isn't that the point of this bike - an off road ready touring-ish bike?


Really? Boost hubs on a cross bike? Put the Kool-aid down young padawan.

Why not ask for an unnecessary and no value added PF BB and really ruin a perfectly good frame while your at it.


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## Greg878 (Apr 21, 2017)

z
Yeah, having to do, wheels, hubs and tires for thru axle gets a little speedy. You can order Vassago frames direct from them. I've got 6 different frames from them. One of them they built as a complete bike for me. The TKO came ready to ride. I'm in NorCal too so I thought I'd give Soma a shot.


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## Greg878 (Apr 21, 2017)

Thanks for the pic posting tips!!!


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## Greg878 (Apr 21, 2017)

Vassago TKO, this thing can run some large tires too.


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## Greg878 (Apr 21, 2017)

Fisticuff with 32cc tires---those could be bigger too.

I'm using the Wolverine steel thru axle fork on the Vassago Donnybrook build. Frames have similar geometry so it should work. The frame some DT Swiss solid rear axle. Should have the frame in a week, I'll post pics of the build.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Really? Boost hubs on a cross bike? Put the Kool-aid down young padawan.
> 
> Why not ask for an unnecessary and no value added PF BB and really ruin a perfectly good frame while your at it.


Just trying to keep up with wheel standards. I had a tough time finding a qr disc tubeless wheelset appropriate for 40mm+ tires when I built my bike up, but that was also like 2 years ago. Most tubeless disc wheelsets then were for MTB, and therefore thru axle front. The "road" qr disc options that were available then were mostly for actual cross bikes, and mostly tubular, non-tubeless, or not wide enough for tires larger than about 35mm. There were a few exceptions, but those were all ridiculous expensive. Not about to drop $1000+ on a wheelset for this bike.

I settled on old stock MTB 29er qr wheels - old model XT hubs with i23 rims. A bit over built for anything smaller than a 38mm tire or so, but they best fit the bill.

I don't really consider the Wolverine a cross bike, either. An off road touring bike, burly drop bar commuter, grocery getter, versatile bike for sure. But cross bike? You could race cross on this bike, but I would prefer something much stiffer with a steeper head tube for cross racing.

Hence why I also think this bike suits MTB wheels better than road wheels. 15x100 thru axle hubs are going to get rare as the MTB industry moves towards 15x110 boost front axles. Even a lot of XC forks now have 15x110 axles now.

Plus, with a 15x110 fork, you can still use an adapter/different end caps in most cases to run 15x100 wheels. So, no real reason to not go to a boost front.

I don't think 12x142 is going to go anywhere though, mostly because boost 148 rear hubs require a different bottom bracket spacing/crankset to get the chain line right.

So, I'm not saying it's better, per se, just that in future it's going to be easier to get parts for it.

I could go either way with PF bb. They don't really cause any extra work, don't really require any more maintenance, and allow for a larger bearing set than most other bb types. Larger bearings are always better. But, I think a huge bb shell on a steel bike looks dumb, so for this bike I prefer a standard threaded bb.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Greg878 said:


> z
> Yeah, having to do, wheels, hubs and tires for thru axle gets a little speedy. You can order Vassago frames direct from them. I've got 6 different frames from them. One of them they built as a complete bike for me. The TKO came ready to ride. I'm in NorCal too so I thought I'd give Soma a shot.


Great looking bike! I like the red bits on the black paint - nice combo. Looks like there is quite a bit of room in the fork for large tires too. Great build!


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## carcass (Jun 8, 2004)

Greg878 said:


> Thanks for the pic posting tips!!!


Great build!
What is the measured distance between the fork legs near where the tread would be on the sides? I am trying to determine how big of a tire can fit


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> I thought pretty hard about the Fisticuff when I ordered the Wolverine, but it was the tire clearance that sold me on the Wolverine. Plus I couldn't find a local shop to order the Fisticuff for me, and SOMA is literally 45 minutes away.


I had a Fist before selling the frame and fork to buy my Wolvie. Depending on what you want to do with your bike, the Wolvie is WAY more comfortable to ride long distances. It is night and day. Lower BB drop and more relaxed geometry and it just practically rides itself. The Vassago was definitely more twitchy but it was more of a cross frame so it should have been. I can ride 50+ miles of gravel on my Wolvie with less energy spent than when I was riding the Fist. That being said I do miss the Fist and really liked it. I just like my Soma better.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

iowamtb said:


> I had a Fist before selling the frame and fork to buy my Wolvie. Depending on what you want to do with your bike, the Wolvie is WAY more comfortable to ride long distances. It is night and day. Lower BB drop and more relaxed geometry and it just practically rides itself. The Vassago was definitely more twitchy but it was more of a cross frame so it should have been. I can ride 50+ miles of gravel on my Wolvie with less energy spent than when I was riding the Fist. That being said I do miss the Fist and really liked it. I just like my Soma better.


The Wolverine is the most comfortable rigid bike I've ever had - especially set up like mine - wide bars set kinda high, shortish stem, and a comfy Ritchey saddle. That and huge tires setup tubeless at like 25 psi helps too... but still, I've had my share of steel bikes, and this one is among the most comfortable I've ever had. SOMA seems to have a reputation for bikes that are comfortable, must be that Tange Prestige tubing. I am definitely thinking of a SOMA for my next road bike too, just because of the ride quality of the Wolverine. A Fog Cutter with a carbon fork would fit in well with my stable...


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> The Wolverine is the most comfortable rigid bike I've ever had - especially set up like mine - wide bars set kinda high, shortish stem, and a comfy Ritchey saddle. That and huge tires setup tubeless at like 25 psi helps too... but still, I've had my share of steel bikes, and this one is among the most comfortable I've ever had. SOMA seems to have a reputation for bikes that are comfortable, must be that Tange Prestige tubing. I am definitely thinking of a SOMA for my next road bike too, just because of the ride quality of the Wolverine. A Fog Cutter with a carbon fork would fit in well with my stable...


I like that Fog Cutter.


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## WarPigs (Dec 21, 2005)

Hi rmf17, could you share what front derailleur did you use? High or low clamp? I intend to get this SLX M7025 2x11 Front Mech, but not sure which one to select.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I've owned my soma for almost a year now. Close to 3000 miles. I love this bike. Do about 50/50 Street / dirt single track. I've been using 38/ 42 mm tires rear / front. Was thinking about trying 2.1 tires. How much slower on the road could I expect and how much more fun comfort on the dirt? Really like my tire set up, just wondering if 2.1 would be better? 

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Psycho1 said:


> I've owned my soma for almost a year now. Close to 3000 miles. I love this bike. Do about 50/50 Street / dirt single track. I've been using 38/ 42 mm tires rear / front. Was thinking about trying 2.1 tires. How much slower on the road could I expect and how much more fun comfort on the dirt? Really like my tire set up, just wondering if 2.1 would be better?
> 
> Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


Better is going to be relative. Better at what? I didn't notice much of a speed change when I went to 2.25" tires, but tire choice is crucial for speed. I was forced to move the dropouts all the way back to fit the tires between the stays, which improved stability significantly, alongside the fact that bigger tires also increased bb height, stand over height. The distance changed between the front axle and the ground slowed steering down considerably. It made my bike a completely different animal. It also floats over pretty much everything, and grip in loose stuff is significantly improved.

Truthfully, though, I kinda went a little overboard with my tires. I kinda miss the old quick steering. I kinda miss the lively ride, rather than he floaty ride. The huge tires make the flexy stock fork even more noticeably flexy - and enhance its imprecision.

Big tires are definitely fun, don't get me wrong, but they will entirely change your bike. Whether it's for the better, that's entirely in how you ride it and what your preferences are.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I ride this bike everywhere I ride my mountain bike and the street. I like long rides on this bike. With the tires I have now I can go over everything. I wouldn't say the tires are holing me back. More the drop bar than anything. But I like it. It's more challenging than my mountain bike. I just ordered an xt derailleur and 11 42 cassette and the wolftooth tanpan. My inability to climb the really steep stuff is about to be history. I hope. I think I'll wait on the tire experiment for a little while based on your feedback. Thank you. 

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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Psycho1 said:


> I ride this bike everywhere I ride my mountain bike and the street. I like long rides on this bike. With the tires I have now I can go over everything. I wouldn't say the tires are holing me back. More the drop bar than anything. But I like it. It's more challenging than my mountain bike. I just ordered an xt derailleur and 11 42 cassette and the wolftooth tanpan. My inability to climb the really steep stuff is about to be history. I hope. I think I'll wait on the tire experiment for a little while based on your feedback. Thank you.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


I went with a sram x7 and double tap set up. Unless you absolutely hate sram you may look that route. Works well even with my 11x42 cassette. I am running a medium cage with b tension screw maxed out.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Really like shimano. But more importantly I already have been using the 105 shifters. So more about cost than anything.. Thank you for the suggestion. 

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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Psycho1 said:


> Really like shimano. But more importantly I already have been using the 105 shifters. So more about cost than anything.. Thank you for the suggestion.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


What size chainring are you going to run, and what gearing did you have with 2x before the switch? I'm running a 36t ring with 11-42 on my Wolverine right now, and find it works well for pretty much anywhere I want to take this bike. I have been toying with putting my 46/36 back on though, and probably will if I put on roadish tires.

I run 105 levers 1x10 on my other cross bike, no big deal. I prefer the feel of the 105 hoods over sram, and like you, I had them on the bike already. I like that I always have the option to hook up a derailleur, and probably will if I do any big event rides with lots of climbing/descending, just for a little more range.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I'm leaving the cross 2x on the front. Then I can have road and trail and other than the compact quick shift of the 11/ 36 I think it will be perfect. Plus the clutch derailleur is the big plus. 50/34 on the front

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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Psycho1 said:


> I'm leaving the cross 2x on the front. Then I can have road and trail and other than the compact quick shift of the 11/ 36 I think it will be perfect. Plus the clutch derailleur is the big plus. 50/34 on the front


I thought about running a 50/34 on mine, but the 50 is a bit big for me and how I use my Wolverine, especially given the tires I'm running. I did a 46/34 for a while on my other cross bike, just used a cross crankset and swapped in a 34t small ring. I like how a few companies are making 46/30 available out of the box now, that seems like a good wide range setup.


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## Mohan (Dec 20, 2013)

Great thread. Couple nice builds here:
Morgan and Stephanie's Soma Wolverine Dirt Tourers - Morgan Taylor | The Radavist


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## Biggus Duckus (Apr 5, 2016)

Here's my latest build


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## SteveJfromtheSwitch (Feb 8, 2012)

Biggus Duckus said:


> Here's my latest build


looks great! an you tell me how many teeth on both those front rings and the cassette? thinking of doing a 2 x 10 or 11 42t at the back, wondering if i should stop at 40t. Running a compact roadcrank, 34/50t double

cheers
Steve


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## Biggus Duckus (Apr 5, 2016)

SteveJfromtheSwitch said:


> looks great! an you tell me how many teeth on both those front rings and the cassette? thinking of doing a 2 x 10 or 11 42t at the back, wondering if i should stop at 40t. Running a compact roadcrank, 34/50t double
> 
> cheers
> Steve


Front is a 46/36 and the cassette is an 11 speed 11-42. The range is great but lower is always better, imo. Eventually I'll probably find a 46/30 crank.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

just switched to the 11/42 with XT derailleur also. I love it. Still compact enough for the road, but I now have a bail out gear and a clutch derailleur.. 50/34 front

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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> Better is going to be relative. Better at what? I didn't notice much of a speed change when I went to 2.25" tires, but tire choice is crucial for speed. I was forced to move the dropouts all the way back to fit the tires between the stays, which improved stability significantly, alongside the fact that bigger tires also increased bb height, stand over height. The distance changed between the front axle and the ground slowed steering down considerably. It made my bike a completely different animal. It also floats over pretty much everything, and grip in loose stuff is significantly improved.
> 
> Truthfully, though, I kinda went a little overboard with my tires. I kinda miss the old quick steering. I kinda miss the lively ride, rather than he floaty ride. The huge tires make the flexy stock fork even more noticeably flexy - and enhance its imprecision.
> 
> Big tires are definitely fun, don't get me wrong, but they will entirely change your bike. Whether it's for the better, that's entirely in how you ride it and what your preferences are.


I going to use this bike for an upcoming bike packing trip. I'm thinking of going 2.0 or so just for the trip. Which tires are you using now? Would you recommend any?

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Psycho1 said:


> I going to use this bike for an upcoming bike packing trip. I'm thinking of going 2.0 or so just for the trip. Which tires are you using now? Would you recommend any?
> 
> Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


I'm still rocking the WTB Nine Line 2.25. Good all around tire, not terribly heavy for a tire of this size, rides great, and goes well with the geo of the Wolverine. But, I am probably going to switch back to a tire is the 40ish range, just to get back a little speed and make it a little snappier on the road. I will likely get a different wheelset to do this on, something a little lighter than the i23s I'm rocking now. I would say try to figure out as much about your terrain as you can before buying tires. If the roads are smooth and well maintained, go with something narrowish, but if they are beat up and scarred from drain water and cows like the fire roads around here, go for larger. Of course, if you expect mud get something knobbier. I have always wanted to try the Nano 2.1 on this bike too, and it looks like a really great all around tire and should provide a little more mud clearance than the Nine Lines I have now.

Good luck and have fun!


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Psycho1 said:


> just switched to the 11/42 with XT derailleur also. I love it. Still compact enough for the road, but I now have a bail out gear and a clutch derailleur.. 50/34 front
> 
> Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


Great looking bike!

Is that the Relevate frame bag? Looks like a great fit on the Wolverine. I also really like all your orange details - right down to the cable housings. How was derailleur tuning and cable routing with the tanpan? I can see how it's shape could improve cable routing on a shadow type derailleur on our frame.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> I'm still rocking the WTB Nine Line 2.25. Good all around tire, not terribly heavy for a tire of this size, rides great, and goes well with the geo of the Wolverine. But, I am probably going to switch back to a tire is the 40ish range, just to get back a little speed and make it a little snappier on the road. I will likely get a different wheelset to do this on, something a little lighter than the i23s I'm rocking now. I would say try to figure out as much about your terrain as you can before buying tires. If the roads are smooth and well maintained, go with something narrowish, but if they are beat up and scarred from drain water and cows like the fire roads around here, go for larger. Of course, if you expect mud get something knobbier. I have always wanted to try the Nano 2.1 on this bike too, and it looks like a really great all around tire and should provide a little more mud clearance than the Nine Lines I have now.
> 
> Good luck and have fun!


Thank you. I was looking at the Nanos. I was using the narrower version and ripped two differant ones open. So not sure about their strength. I see that vittoria has come out with a new 2.1 that looks intriguing. The trails should be very similar to what I'm riding it on now. So maybe best to stay with what I am used to for now

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> Great looking bike!
> 
> Is that the Relevate frame bag? Looks like a great fit on the Wolverine. I also really like all your orange details - right down to the cable housings. How was derailleur tuning and cable routing with the tanpan? I can see how it's shape could improve cable routing on a shadow type derailleur on our frame.


Thank you. Yes yes. Revelate tangle. Perfect fit. I had to lower the rear h20 holder though. The derailleur set up perfect. Other than the extra gear I would not notice a difference. Very smooth.

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Psycho1 said:


> Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


Oh sweet, that looks like your cable is nearly a straight shot from the stop to the tanpan. Very cool, nice and tidy.


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## WarPigs (Dec 21, 2005)

Psycho1 said:


> just switched to the 11/42 with XT derailleur also. I love it. Still compact enough for the road, but I now have a bail out gear and a clutch derailleur.. 50/34 front
> 
> Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


Hi Psycho1,
can you share the exact derailleur that you used? I'm not sure which derailleur to buy, top or bottom swing, high or low clamp.
TIA


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

WarPigs said:


> Hi Psycho1,
> can you share the exact derailleur that you used? I'm not sure which derailleur to buy, top or bottom swing, high or low clamp.
> TIA


That looks like a standard Ultegra 6800 or 105 5800 FD to me - should be bottom pull, 28.6 clamp for the Wolverine. Biggest thing is make sure the FD pull matches the shifters - newer 11 speed FDs use a different pull ratio than 10 speed and older. That's for Shimano road shifters, BTW, SRAM and Campy are different, and MTB stuff is different too. Bar end and most other friction shifters are usually pretty flexible with FDs, since they don't rely on indexing to work. Let us know your proposed setup, and we should be able to help you figure it out.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Shimano 105. Pretty standard. It comes with a spacer for different size seat post. It's actually capable of 2 or 3 ring.









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## WarPigs (Dec 21, 2005)

Psycho1 said:


> Shimano 105. Pretty standard. It comes with a spacer for different size seat post. It's actually capable of 2 or 3 ring.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks


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## WarPigs (Dec 21, 2005)

SpeedyStein said:


> That looks like a standard Ultegra 6800 or 105 5800 FD to me - should be bottom pull, 28.6 clamp for the Wolverine. Biggest thing is make sure the FD pull matches the shifters - newer 11 speed FDs use a different pull ratio than 10 speed and older. That's for Shimano road shifters, BTW, SRAM and Campy are different, and MTB stuff is different too. Bar end and most other friction shifters are usually pretty flexible with FDs, since they don't rely on indexing to work. Let us know your proposed setup, and we should be able to help you figure it out.


Thanks SpeedyStein.

I intend to make it a 650B offroad touring and hitting the local trails plus as a commuter. I started riding MTB on rigid forks. My current MTB is a Transition TransAM 29er. My touring buddies are on fatbikes n 29+ touring rigs, so when they go off-road, pretty sketchy on my old Olmo steel roadbike on 28mm tires.

I'm looking at SLX 2x11. I want to use off-road drop bars like the cowchipper, or maybe Crust's Leatherbar, which will restrict me to Gevenalle GX or bar-ends, but I'm leaning more towards Gevenalle, but it's going to be a hefty investment. Or I delay that and just use alt bars like Mary or Jones H-bar, as the groupset from the SLX already includes the shifters.

I've fitted with Shimano STIs on my Olmo, but I don't like the shifting as it hits the wald basket and/or front bag that I attach to my handlebar. I normally ride on the hoods.








This is my current setup on my Olmo, pretty maxed out on what I can load and 28mm is the widest tires I can fit.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I'm running the woodchippers. Not as much of a drop and I don't think the 105 levers are quite as long as what you have there. Might be worth looking at other bikes that have them. I think your basket would clear mine. I just put my blackburn handle bar bag with my tent in it and it has enough clearance to shift. Just an FYI 

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

WarPigs said:


> Thanks SpeedyStein.
> 
> I intend to make it a 650B offroad touring and hitting the local trails plus as a commuter. I started riding MTB on rigid forks. My current MTB is a Transition TransAM 29er. My touring buddies are on fatbikes n 29+ touring rigs, so when they go off-road, pretty sketchy on my old Olmo steel roadbike on 28mm tires.
> 
> ...


I totally understand your desire for wider tires!

I think the Gevenalle stuff is pretty cool, and very nearly went for the hydraulic 1x11 dynasys setup they offer, but went with bar end shifters instead. I'm still kinda thinking about their setup though, because non-hydraulic brakes just aren't doing it for me (still). With the SLX FD, you are pretty much stuck with a friction front shifter or a flat bar MTB shifter, so you are on the right track with bar ends or Gevenalle. If you wanted to use STI type shifters, you would need to use a road FD, like the one you asked about above.

For what it's worth, I really like the Microshift 11spd dynasys bar end shifter. Good lever feel, easy installation, and nice positive indexed clicks. And it's switchable to friction without even taking it apart, just with a little switch, in case of catastrophe. Very simple setup and mated with the XT RD with zero complications. Pretty sure it's the same lever Gevenalle uses - or at least the same internals anyway.

I had a Wald 137 basket on the Wolverine for a little while with 105 shifters, and had no clearance problems, but I also mounted the basket super low on a Blackburn front rack. I also have pretty wide bars on my bike too.

Speaking of bars, I really like the Ritchey EvoMax bar. Offroadish with a slight flare, but still familiar as a road bar.

I rocked the Wolverine with flat bars for a little while, and it was kinda fun, but definitely not as much fun as with drops for me. Maybe something like a Jones bar would have been better, but I wasn't feeling it. Not to mention the qr fork is pretty flexy, and having stiffer bars and much more powerful hydraulic MTB brakes didn't help it any. I always felt like the contact patch with the ground was just going wherever it wanted, and I couldn't get it to not squeal under hard braking. Maybe with a super stiff carbon fork it would work.

Good luck with your build!


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## kid_dynamite (Jan 20, 2008)

Are the 11s Microshift barends able to be used as downtube shifters? I couldn't seem to find that info on their website. I've already ordered some dia-compe 11s dt shifters, but just wanted to know my options. Thanks!


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

kid_dynamite said:


> Are the 11s Microshift barends able to be used as downtube shifters? I couldn't seem to find that info on their website. I've already ordered some dia-compe 11s dt shifters, but just wanted to know my options. Thanks!


I'm not sure - I haven't tried it yet. They look like they should be, since the pod that the shifter mounts to has pretty much the same shape as the braze on downtube mounts. I will give it a closer look and see if they mate up tonight.


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## michel77 (Apr 9, 2012)

Joined the club this week! Was planning a 650b build from frame/fork when one popped up for sale locally. 
Just got back from a shakedown road ride, feels great so far but really looking forward to throwing in some singletrack this weekend! Probably going to convert to 1x10 for summer and singlespeed for winter, should be a nice step up from my drop bar Redline 29er!


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

michel77 said:


> Joined the club this week! Was planning a 650b build from frame/fork when one popped up for sale locally.
> Just got back from a shakedown road ride, feels great so far but really looking forward to throwing in some singletrack this weekend! Probably going to convert to 1x10 for summer and singlespeed for winter, should be a nice step up from my drop bar Redline 29er!


Looks good - I dig the green bar tape!


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## WarPigs (Dec 21, 2005)

Hi SpeedyStein,
just saw this new handlebar
https://ritcheylogic.com/venturemax-handlebar

I think its still new, so no reviews yet. Soma Condor a bit too ex.

Price wise reasonable here

https://www.bike-components.de/en/Ritchey/Comp-VentureMax-Lenker-Modell-2017-p53315/


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## michel77 (Apr 9, 2012)

First singletrack ride done. Love it so far, takes a little getting used to since it's much more agile than my Redline, possibly helped along by the 650b setup. 
As expected, not a fan of the Cowbells offroad at all so ordered a set of Soma Junebugs to see how I like those and to compare to the On One Midge bars..


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

WarPigs said:


> Hi SpeedyStein,
> just saw this new handlebar
> https://ritcheylogic.com/venturemax-handlebar
> 
> ...


Those look interesting, definitely have some flare in the drops. They actually look a fair bit like the c2009 WTB Dirt Drops, but maybe a little shorter and shallower, and not quite as flared. I think the WTB had a 30d flare.

With Ritchey, they have the WCS and Comp levels, you have the WCS in the first link, and the Comp on the second - not a whole lot of difference, at least for their bars. A different alloy that nets an average of 30grams or so between the levels for most of their road bars. Not really worth the price difference, IMO.

Let us know if you try them, would love to hear some real world impressions.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

michel77 said:


> First singletrack ride done. Love it so far, takes a little getting used to since it's much more agile than my Redline, possibly helped along by the 650b setup.
> As expected, not a fan of the Cowbells offroad at all so ordered a set of Soma Junebugs to see how I like those and to compare to the On One Midge bars..
> 
> View attachment 1144715


I haven't tried a 650b build on this bike yet, but I can imagine it absolutely shreds with a smaller diameter tire. I know mine was a blast on single track with 35mm Cross Boss tires and the sliders all the way forward, and running a 27.5 x2.1 tire probably amplifies that considerably. I'm really wanting to build up a second wheelset!

Let us know what you think of the Soma Junebugs - I was eyeing those over pretty hard a while ago. Out of curiosity, what did you not like about the cowbell?


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

kid_dynamite said:


> Are the 11s Microshift barends able to be used as downtube shifters? I couldn't seem to find that info on their website. I've already ordered some dia-compe 11s dt shifters, but just wanted to know my options. Thanks!


Finally got around to trying the micro shift shifters mounted to the dt bosses - they fit well. Makes for a nice option for a temporary switch to double crankset vice the single ring I've been using.


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## WarPigs (Dec 21, 2005)

SpeedyStein said:


> Those look interesting, definitely have some flare in the drops. They actually look a fair bit like the c2009 WTB Dirt Drops, but maybe a little shorter and shallower, and not quite as flared. I think the WTB had a 30d flare.
> 
> With Ritchey, they have the WCS and Comp levels, you have the WCS in the first link, and the Comp on the second - not a whole lot of difference, at least for their bars. A different alloy that nets an average of 30grams or so between the levels for most of their road bars. Not really worth the price difference, IMO.
> 
> Let us know if you try them, would love to hear some real world impressions.


opps, didn't realise there was two levels, but I would have ordered the Comp level any. hahaha I'm waiting for it to arrive from Germany.


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## michel77 (Apr 9, 2012)

SpeedyStein said:


> Let us know what you think of the Soma Junebugs - I was eyeing those over pretty hard a while ago. Out of curiosity, what did you not like about the cowbell?


I'll keep you posted. I felt the cowbells had too deep and narrow of a drop. I'm also not used to these more conventional drops offroad, I ran On-One Midge bars on my previous "cross" bike (converted 29er really). I like more flare and shallower drops for singletrack.


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

Been considering building up a Wolverine for myself as of late, with concerns about the stays breaking, I sent an email to Soma and got the following response. Needless to say, I'm waiting till Sept to order my frame.

*"We are just about sold out of Wolverines. The next batch is due, optimistically, late August, but probably not until early September. These Wolverines will be the Wolverine 1.2; having a reinforcement bridge between the seat and chain stays as well as reinforced chain stays. The rare incidences of dropout problems will be eliminated with the 1.2. Hope you can wait for them!

-Soma Fabrications"*

Just thought anyone who's had concerns like myself, might like to know Soma is addressing the issue.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Guy.Ford said:


> Been considering building up a Wolverine for myself as of late, with concerns about the stays breaking, I sent an email to Soma and got the following response. Needless to say, I'm waiting till Sept to order my frame.
> 
> *"We are just about sold out of Wolverines. The next batch is due, optimistically, late August, but probably not until early September. These Wolverines will be the Wolverine 1.2; having a reinforcement bridge between the seat and chain stays as well as reinforced chain stays. The rare incidences of dropout problems will be eliminated with the 1.2. Hope you can wait for them!
> 
> ...


excellent info, thanks!!


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Guy.Ford said:


> Been considering building up a Wolverine for myself as of late, with concerns about the stays breaking, I sent an email to Soma and got the following response. Needless to say, I'm waiting till Sept to order my frame.
> 
> *"We are just about sold out of Wolverines. The next batch is due, optimistically, late August, but probably not until early September. These Wolverines will be the Wolverine 1.2; having a reinforcement bridge between the seat and chain stays as well as reinforced chain stays. The rare incidences of dropout problems will be eliminated with the 1.2. Hope you can wait for them!
> 
> ...


Interesting so does this mean the rest of us should be concerned since apparently soma odd addressing a known issue?


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

iowamtb said:


> Interesting so does this mean the rest of us should be concerned since apparently soma odd addressing a known issue?


I doubt it, doesn't seem to be a rampant issue. However, adding a brace is a simple/cheap insurance policy against potential breakage. All mfgs see broken frames carbon, aluminum, steel it's just part of the deal and luck of the draw.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Guy.Ford said:


> I doubt it, doesn't seem to be a rampant issue. However, adding a brace is a simple/cheap insurance policy against potential breakage. All mfgs see broken frames carbon, aluminum, steel it's just part of the deal and luck of the draw.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


Understandable and reassuring.....


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## Loobs (Aug 7, 2017)

Hi dudes and dudettes,

I plan to start building up a Wolverine soon. Couple of noob questions about compatible drivetrain/crankset setups. Wanna have a wide range of gears on the bike, for loaded steep hill climbing, so definitely not 1x11 nor double or even compact. Would a Sugino compact plus crankset (ie. 44-30) work with a 10/11 speed Shimano road (or do I need mtb?) rear cassette and road STI shifters? Bar-end shifters would also be fine.

Many thanks,

Loobs.


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## Biggus Duckus (Apr 5, 2016)

Loobs said:


> Hi dudes and dudettes,
> 
> I plan to start building up a Wolverine soon. Couple of noob questions about compatible drivetrain/crankset setups. Wanna have a wide range of gears on the bike, for loaded steep hill climbing, so definitely not 1x11 nor double or even compact. Would a Sugino compact plus crankset (ie. 44-30) work with a 10/11 speed Shimano road (or do I need mtb?) rear cassette and road STI shifters? Bar-end shifters would also be fine.
> 
> ...


I have a Wolverine and have had a few different iterations for gearing. I personally like either bar end shifters or Gevenalle shifters. This allows the use of a MTB cassette (11-42) without any sort of hack or adapter. As for the front, a 44-30 or 46-30 would be great. My setup has always been a 46-36 but I don't do gnarly technical climbs or anything.

BTW the new Wolverine frame is debuting shortly (maybe a week) and has added some strength to the dropout area, if you haven't bought a frame yet.


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## pj3y55 (Aug 9, 2017)

Hello, mtbr noober here. Joined to share my experience... My (58) seat stay split version is in the process of being warrantied. I'd stripped it for a 2nd more thorough injection of framesaver and heli-taping only to find (fortunately before the heli-taping but sadly after wasting some framesaver) a crack emanating from opposite sides of the drive side chainstay vent hole. I'm not a heavy rider (80kg suited and booted) and I hadn't given this frame any hammer, but it looks like this one would've finished up just like another forum member's posted earlier on with a totally snaped DS c'stay. Glad I avoided that fate.

Point of sale (also Distributor) here in the UK very quick to fwd my photos onto Soma US and get a warranty approval. I'm just about to hacksaw it up :-( to enable the warranty to further proceed! I hope that the replacement is one of these with the improvements in this area.


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## Loobs (Aug 7, 2017)

Biggus Duckus said:


> I have a Wolverine and have had a few different iterations for gearing. I personally like either bar end shifters or Gevenalle shifters. This allows the use of a MTB cassette (11-42) without any sort of hack or adapter. As for the front, a 44-30 or 46-30 would be great. My setup has always been a 46-36 but I don't do gnarly technical climbs or anything.
> 
> BTW the new Wolverine frame is debuting shortly (maybe a week) and has added some strength to the dropout area, if you haven't bought a frame yet.


Thanks for coming back to me.

Does anyone make a 44-30 crankset that doesn't cost 400 dollars?


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## pj3y55 (Aug 9, 2017)

Loobs said:


> Thanks for coming back to me.
> 
> Does anyone make a 44-30 crankset that doesn't cost 400 dollars?


That shouldn't be a problem; as long as you don't mind cobbling one together from parts. Hardest thing to find is 30t c'ring; had a quick look on CRC and found these 3 30t options, after that you'd need to decide on cranks and bottom bracket and easiest of all should be o source a 44t chainring, although I imagine MTB types will be more accommodating.

Shimano Tiagra FC4603 10sp Triple Chainrings | Chain Reaction Cycles

Shimano XT FCM782 10 Speed Triple Chainring | Chain Reaction Cycles

Shimano 105 FC5703 10 Speed Triple Chanrings | Chain Reaction Cycles

Hope this helps with some inspiration, unless you want it all to be nicely matched.


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## Loobs (Aug 7, 2017)

Cheers!


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## Loobs (Aug 7, 2017)

Maybe it'd just be easier to get a Deore Triple set up with a 10-speed rear and run it with bar end shifters so. This is what's on my other touring bike and I like it.


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## Biggus Duckus (Apr 5, 2016)

I'm relocating for 3 months of training, so I needed to put a bike into commuter mode earlier than expected. Put smaller tires on (WTB Byways tubeless) and added fenders. I feel like it's ready for commuting, gravel, and on/off road touring now. Might just keep it this way...










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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Loobs said:


> Thanks for coming back to me.
> 
> Does anyone make a 44-30 crankset that doesn't cost 400 dollars?


You could start with a tiagra/105/ultegra 10spd triple crankset, remove big and middle rings, and get a 46t ring to put in middle spot to get a 46/30 double. Leave the big ring spot empty or put a bash on, your choice. All those parts are easy to find, and shopping online, you could probably build this setup for around $150 with bb.


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## MindEyeSight (Nov 19, 2013)

Velo Orange used to make a 46/30 with bashgard called the Polyvalent Crankset. It was just over $100. You could have some luck finding one of those. I will probably post one on EBay sometime this week.


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

**NEW* Soma Wolverine v2.1 frame*

Here is a pic of the newly updated Wolverine v2.1 recently added to the Soma Wolverine site/page :thumbsup:

View attachment 1154850


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## forgiven_nick (Nov 7, 2006)

Think it will be harder to adjust the tensioning screw on the sliding dropouts?


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I'm flip-flopping my stance on this bike. 

I still absolutely love the ride, tire clearance, geometry, and adjustable drop outs.

But the way Soma has handled this crack issue is alarming. The addition of straps instead of tubing, shows a lack of understanding for bicycle construction. When I talk to Soma about these things, I can't get straight answers, and they have been intentionally ignoring parts of questions, so as to not get caught being clueless.

These Straps just... can not do what Soma pretends they do. 

Add to that the warranty worthy issues my bike already has, flaking clear coat, out of spec seat tube. misaligned drop outs... And it just sucks the fun out of my favorite bike.

I'll be taking it to a frame builder to have the chainstays and drop outs replaced. have it refinished, and just enjoy my bike. But I'm done dealing with Soma.

For the time being I'm back on a Straggler frame I got for cheap, but I miss my Wolverine.


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## SteveJfromtheSwitch (Feb 8, 2012)

as someone who is about to pull the trigger on a Woverine, is this something i should be concerned with?? particularly as i'm buying from the USA and i'm in Australia, warranty returns etc could be a problem for me.


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## bkinsman (Feb 10, 2017)

Why not just get from a local shop? I’m in Sydney and have ordered mine through Omafiets


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## bkinsman (Feb 10, 2017)

I heard wind of the v2.1 a month or two ago and have lusted after a Wolverine for a couple years now but was nervous of the reported dropout issue & previous monster cross builds just didn’t hit the spot.. it seems the every busted one you see has the dropouts slammed all the way back 🤷🏻*♂

Frame/thru axle fork should arrive in a couple weeks!!!

I’ve almost got all the parts for my build which will consist of:
- 52cm Black frame & thru axle fork
- Chris King black/silver headset
- SRAM Rival 1 group w/10-42 cassette
- Thomson dirt drops, stem, seatpost & clamp
- Brooks weatherproof c15 carved saddle
- Mason/Hunt 650 wheelset
- WTB Byway tires
- Outershell bar, stem and saddle bags

Looking forward to posting some pics when it’s all together!!!

One question, am I going to be able to run 180/160 rotors on it?


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Agwan said:


> I'm flip-flopping my stance on this bike.
> 
> I still absolutely love the ride, tire clearance, geometry, and adjustable drop outs.
> 
> ...


Thank you for your feedback. This is the kind of honest assessment I love reading. Sorry you didn't have a good experience, but I'm super interested to hear how your frame modification turns out.

Also, (if you don't mind) I'm curious what it will cost to have the rear triangle replaced vs just having a custom frame made copying the Wolverine geo.

I'm a little sad to admit I've not had a good experience with Soma's communication either. I really like some of their products but some of these issues make me hesitant.

I really like/want the Wolverine, but I'm reluctant because I agree with your opinion that the braces are not the best fix for the cracking problem. And yes to the person that asked, those braces can get in the way of adjusting the dropouts on some frames, kind of a pain.

Anyway, hope your frame mods go well and you post up the results.


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## SteveJfromtheSwitch (Feb 8, 2012)

bkinsman said:


> Why not just get from a local shop? I'm in Sydney and have ordered mine through Omafiets


Long story short, i've been dealing with a USA bike shop for years now, getting me Surly's in a time in Australia due to distributor changes, it was hard to get them. It was natural to keep going through them. If it breaks, i just need to send the frame back to them. I figure the money i save buying from them still covers a few lots of freight in the event of a problem.


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## bkinsman (Feb 10, 2017)

SteveJfromtheSwitch said:


> Long story short, i've been dealing with a USA bike shop for years now, getting me Surly's in a time in Australia due to distributor changes, it was hard to get them. It was natural to keep going through them. If it breaks, i just need to send the frame back to them. I figure the money i save buying from them still covers a few lots of freight in the event of a problem.


Ah righto, fair enough then.
rock on!


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## forgiven_nick (Nov 7, 2006)

I'm still considering a Wolverine. I am 5'9 and ride a 54 on most frames. It appears that the 52 size mirrors the 54 size Litespeed gravel bike I have just tested and am writing a review for currently. Anyone else here ride the 52 or 54 size and close to my height?
Thanks in advance.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I'm 5'9 and I have a 52. Long torso short legs. I ride a 54 or 56 in a lot of other frames. If going with drops I'd do the 50 or 52. flats 54 or 56.


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## forgiven_nick (Nov 7, 2006)

Agwan said:


> I'm 5'9 and I have a 52. Long torso short legs. I ride a 54 or 56 in a lot of other frames. If going with drops I'd do the 50 or 52. flats 54 or 56.


Thank you! 
That confirms it. 
My pant leg inseam is 30 in, so I have shorter legs, longer torso as well. 
What stem length and spacers stack are you using? Have you played with those lengths/heights much?

Thanks again Agwan.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Oh, I've played with it a ton. 

First set of Drop bars was super wide 48cm drop bar that I custom ordered. I paired that with a 60, 80 and 100 mm stem. It was stable, but so stable that it felt kind of bland. 

Then Iwent back to some hacked 560mm flats on a 100mm Stem, and given that I've ridden those numbers more than anything else, they were great. 

Then just for the heck of it I went over to some 29er mustache bars that came in around 660. The Soma Odin bar is comparable to those. That was really fantastic, and matched with an ergo grip, has been amazing. 

Then I went with some 44cm flat topped aero drops, because at this point I had lost a lot of weight and it had gotten easier to breath with narrower bars, I ran those bars at both 90 and 100 mm stems. Liked them with the 90 just a bit more. as far as bar drop from saddle I kept it pretty tame. I did try a 4 cm drop for a time, and it wasn't terrible. but I found that I like to keep my bars within about 2 cm of saddle height, usually 2 cm lower.

After that my wife was really in love with my Drivetrain, so I gifted it over to her bike (Soma Double Cross, same size.). So she'd stop riding mine. She rides it at 3 cm saddle to bar drop. 

For some stats, I'm 5,9 and 3/4's. She's about 5, 10 and 1/2. My cycling inseam is 31.5ish hers is about 35. We ride the same size frames but with very different fits. She's flexible and thin, I'm heavy with chronic pain from injuries.

My most common spacer stack is 4 cm. and I usually run a 7 degree stem pointed down.


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## bitflogger (Jan 12, 2004)

Greg878 said:


> Just finished a magnificent matte black Wolverine build, done 100 or so miles on it and it's pretty darn good!!!


Your subtitle "2017 Soma Wolverine build 56cm. SRAM 1x11 and fat tires!!" stood out as I sort through all these pages.

There's a not very used 56 for sale locally but it seemed big for my 5'10" mostly riding a MTB lately. I'm sure the guy's stem and bars are part of it. I want or wanted 1x and he's got a 2 ring 105 setup and wheels not tubeless ready.

I think what's got me messed on the size is the way a brief ride on a 55 cm Vaya felt so good compared to his very much old school narrow drops and touring setup.



Agwan said:


> I'm 5'9 and I have a 52. Long torso short legs. I ride a 54 or 56 in a lot of other frames. If going with drops I'd do the 50 or 52. flats 54 or 56.


That scares me re buying the used 56 because I'm 5'10" but admittedly more of me in leg than torso. I have some 25-30 years old little used WTB drop bars that I thought I'd use if I buy it but I forgot what diameter they are.

Basically 56 is in the middle of their range and where I am with most bikes but I fear it's too long. Sizing input would really be appreciated.


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## SteveJfromtheSwitch (Feb 8, 2012)

*New Matt Black Build*

So i built my frame up last weekend. it's a 52cm, i'm 173cm but with a 31" inseam and it fits nicely.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

SteveJfromtheSwitch said:


> So i built my frame up last weekend. it's a 52cm, i'm 173cm but with a 31" inseam and it fits nicely.
> 
> View attachment 1161903
> View attachment 1161904
> View attachment 1161905


Either your 31" inseam is your pants, and not your cycling inseam, or your pelvis has to rock back and forth way too much. Because my cycling inseam is 31.5 and my 52 has WAY less exposed seatpost. And I work in a bike shop and had my fit done. And I just had my fit updated, and my post still isn't that high.

I lost a bunch of weight, so my flexibility changed.

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## SteveJfromtheSwitch (Feb 8, 2012)

i think the photo is deceptive, it's only a small drop from bars to seat when you look at it side on


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I'm not talking bar drop. Seatpost extension. Your seat looks way too high for a 31 inch leg.

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## SteveJfromtheSwitch (Feb 8, 2012)

i don't know what to tell you mate, it fits. i don't work in any bike shop but this ain't my first rodeo either


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

It may fit. If it does your numbers are wrong. That seatpost extension is a hair higher than my wife. Who has almost exactly a 35 inch inseam. She actually enjoys about the same saddle to bar drop as well. She's also had a fitting done. She still rides a 52" (She's the same height as me, just much longer legs and more flexible.)

I don't care how many rodeo's you've been to. I work at the rodeo, 5 days a week. For nearly three years now. 

Being able to reach the pedals, doesn't mean it fits. You may have an ideal saddle height, and if you do. It just means your cycling inseam isn't 31". 

Or your saddle may be too high, and your pelvis is rocking side to side when you pedal, and you're putting more strain on tendons than you need to. As well as putting extra stress on your man bits.


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## SteveJfromtheSwitch (Feb 8, 2012)

ok boss, you win,


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Not trying to win. More interested in whether or not you're doing something that can sterilize you. 

Basically, I want you and your wife to KEEP winning.

If your pants inseam is 31, then it all makes sense. My pants inseam is like... 26.5? I dunno. I'm an expert in fixing bikes, not making high performance pants.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

High performance pants Rock!!


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

SteveJfromtheSwitch said:


> So i built my frame up last weekend. it's a 52cm, i'm 173cm but with a 31" inseam and it fits nicely.
> 
> View attachment 1161903
> View attachment 1161904
> View attachment 1161905


Nice build! I like the orange bits - nice touch. I can also dig the tan walls, always look good on steel bikes to me.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

bitflogger said:


> Your subtitle "2017 Soma Wolverine build 56cm. SRAM 1x11 and fat tires!!" stood out as I sort through all these pages.
> 
> There's a not very used 56 for sale locally but it seemed big for my 5'10" mostly riding a MTB lately. I'm sure the guy's stem and bars are part of it. I want or wanted 1x and he's got a 2 ring 105 setup and wheels not tubeless ready.
> 
> ...


Depending on the day of the week, I'm a smidge short of 5'11" and I ride a 54cm Wolverine. I'm also pretty flexible, and with ~32mm of spacers under my stem, I still have about a 3" bar to saddle drop. Keep in mind with this bike that the headtube is pretty short and the top tube is pretty long for a given size. The size is in a kind of limbo for me, I have a 70mm stem now, and it is right at the long limit for me with modest reach drop bars, but with a 100mm stem it felt way too short for a flat bar bike.

Don't let me discourage you from a Wolverine though, you won't find better steel for less, and you probably won't find better "monstercross" features for less. It is a good value for sure, and the ride quality is among the best rigid bikes I've ridden. With cross-ish size tires (35-40mm) and the sliders all the way forward, this thing absolutely shreds smooth single track, and with big floaty tires (29x2.2) and the sliders all the way back, it is very well mannered for commutes or neighborhood duty. 
I carry my daughter in a kid seat on the back and it is very stable in its current setup with big tires. All in all, great bike to play Jekyll and Hyde with, especially once you get the fit and kit dialed to your liking.

As I've mentioned before, I would love to try the thru axle fork available for this bike, the standard fork is super flexy. Good for comfort, but leaves me wanting just a little more stiffness for more aggressive rides.

Good luck, hopefully you find one you are happy with!


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

So I fitted a Rawland Raidoverks Rando Rack on the front on my Wolverine today - I can dig it! It's a very sturdy small rack that should hold a basket, small bag, or 6 pack pretty easily.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

^ looks cool. Just curious, what RD and shifter are you using?


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Thanks! Its a Microshift 11spd bar end MTB ratio shifter mated to an XT rd. Awesome combo, works perfectly without any adaptors.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Biggus Duckus said:


> Here's my latest build


Very sharp! What size tires are you running and what width rim are they mounted on?


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## WarPigs (Dec 21, 2005)

My recent tour, build up on Friday, start tour on Sunday.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

WarPigs said:


> My recent tour, build up on Friday, start tour on Sunday.
> 
> View attachment 1163663
> View attachment 1163664
> View attachment 1163665


Looks good! Are those the 50mm Cazaderos?


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## WarPigs (Dec 21, 2005)

nopes, the 42mm Cazadero, offroad is ok on some smooth black diamond trails, I push my bike down the gnarly rock garden.


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## Windjammer (May 6, 2007)




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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

^ Nice setup! I just ordered my Wolverine frame, and my SS wheels I recently built have Blue hubs. I was thinking about doing some more Blue stuff but I have no intention if trying to compete with that! I dig it though :thumbsup:


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## almlof (Nov 12, 2017)

*OneSpeed* said:


> I just ordered my Wolverine frame


What convinced you to go with the frame after all? I was selling bikes to make place for a wolverine, but then the whole broken rear-triangle-thing happened. I've not reached the point were I'm convinced since I have a few alternatives but all are different bikes..


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

almlof said:


> What convinced you to go with the frame after all? I was selling bikes to make place for a wolverine, but then the whole broken rear-triangle-thing happened. I've not reached the point were I'm convinced since I have a few alternatives but all are different bikes..


My love of the Monstercross genre, nice steel tubing, ample tire clearance, and the new version 2.1 has braces at the back which should eliminate the cracking issue. It looks like SS adjustment will be more of a pain, I just hope they left room to get a wrench in there. I break frames a lot, apparently, so if it fails I hope they stand behind it. Only one way to find out


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## almlof (Nov 12, 2017)

*OneSpeed* said:


> My love of the Monstercross genre, nice steel tubing, ample tire clearance, and the new version 2.1 has braces at the back which should eliminate the cracking issue. It looks like SS adjustment will be more of a pain, I just hope they left room to get a wrench in there. I break frames a lot, apparently, so if it fails I hope they stand behind it. Only one way to find out


The braces just looks awful to me, but if they could prevent the cracking thing, well that's great. One would hope if that wasn't the case, Soma fab would pull the frame.. f it, I think I'll get on as well. The only thing holding me back is that I don't wanna go higher than size 58.. but I probably should.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> So I fitted a Rawland Raidoverks Rando Rack on the front on my Wolverine today - I can dig it! It's a very sturdy small rack that should hold a basket, small bag, or 6 pack pretty easily.
> View attachment 1163561
> 
> View attachment 1163562





Windjammer said:


> View attachment 1166848
> View attachment 1166849
> View attachment 1166850
> View attachment 1166851
> View attachment 1166864


Nice build! Are those Hope calipers mated to Sram hydro levers? I like the belt drive idea, haven't seen many Wolverines setup that way, but I can dig it.


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## Evan Bacon (May 18, 2009)

The issue is the dropouts, not the chainstays. The braces don't do anything.


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## Windjammer (May 6, 2007)

Hi, yep it's sram hydro rival mated to Hope calipers. I removed the shifter from the levers. A soma wolverine was simply one of the few non-custom options for a versatile steel belt drive single speed. My understanding of the drop-out or chainstay issue is people sliding the drop-outs past the chainstay length limit specified by soma--440mm--and so soma had to add the ugly gussets because stupid.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Yeah, the braces look pretty silly, and don't look like they would really fix the problem. If SOMA didn't want people to slide the dropouts all the way back, they shouldn't have designed it to slide that far back. Oh well, can't change the design once it's built. I'm curious what portion of frames sold have broken...? Wondering how at risk I am...


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> Yeah, the braces look pretty silly, and don't look like they would really fix the problem. If SOMA didn't want people to slide the dropouts all the way back, they shouldn't have designed it to slide that far back. Oh well, can't change the design once it's built. I'm curious what portion of frames sold have broken...? Wondering how at risk I am...


So are you saying when the drop outs are maxed out there is too much stress on the welds? That makes sense..I don't run mine all the way back.....More like midway. I suppose the same could be said for all their bikes as my B Side has the same set up. I don't run them all the way back either.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Windjammer said:


> Hi, yep it's sram hydro rival mated to Hope calipers. I removed the shifter from the levers. A soma wolverine was simply one of the few non-custom options for a versatile steel belt drive single speed.


That's a pretty neat trick - well done. I didn't think about mixing levers and calipers to get to a specific combo.


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## Windjammer (May 6, 2007)

there's not much of a choice. only sram or shimano are compatible, and the caliper has to match. I like sram fine, but the hope fittings and hoses don't fit the sram lever. I'm not sure if shimano would be any different in that regard. The sram lever feels great with this caliper, and attaching it is actually very simple.


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

iowamtb said:


> So are you saying when the drop outs are maxed out there is too much stress on the welds? That makes sense..I don't run mine all the way back.....More like midway. I suppose the same could be said for all their bikes as my B Side has the same set up. I don't run them all the way back either.


Soma's issue is sliding the dropouts all the way back allowed riders to use 2.0-2.2 mtb tires and ride the bike more aggressively, outside of its designed parameters which caused breakage.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


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## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

That's still a lousy design. If the dropouts can slide that far, they should be designed to take that stress.



Guy.Ford said:


> Soma's issue is sliding the dropouts all the way back allowed riders to use 2.0-2.2 mtb tires and ride the bike more aggressively, outside of its designed parameters which caused breakage.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Guy.Ford said:


> Soma's issue is sliding the dropouts all the way back allowed riders to use 2.0-2.2 mtb tires and ride the bike more aggressively, outside of its designed parameters which caused breakage.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


AHHHH well maybe that's why I haven't had any trouble. Honestly I slid my drop outs back for this reason but I noticed with the hour glass flare of the chain stay, it looks like a larger tire will only fit if you run it in the middle. If you slide it all the way back, the middle of your tires sidewall will be riding right where the narrowest part of the chain stay crosses it. I want the fattest part of the tire to ride in the "lightbulb" looking area of the stay. Not sure if this makes sense but it does if you look at the bike. Besides that I don't take this bike crazy off roading. I just ride gravel on both my bikes and if any single track is in the plan I take my B Side.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

I just ordered a new 2.1 version with the ugly braces. I promise to pound the snot out of this thing. I seem to have a knack for breaking stuff, frames included, so we'll see how it holds up. 

I ride my poor cross bike on some very punishing single track (for a cross bike). I definitely take it places it was never meant to go. The new Wolverine will take it's place for off-road shenanigans. 

I agree the braces are a band-aid on a poor design. We'll see how it holds up.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

seat_boy said:


> That's still a lousy design. If the dropouts can slide that far, they should be designed to take that stress.


Fully agree.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Guy.Ford said:


> Soma's issue is sliding the dropouts all the way back allowed riders to use 2.0-2.2 mtb tires and ride the bike more aggressively, outside of its designed parameters which caused breakage.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


This. I fit 2.25 Nine Lines on mine. They barely squeezed between the stays, and I certainly wouldn't ride it in the mud like this (not again anyway). That said, those huge tires took all the off-road fun of this bike completely away. It's just a big luxo liner commuter now. The tires forced an increased chainstay length, which increased the overall wheelbase, and also impacted the trail - the combination of these made it super stable and comfy, but took all of the "twitch" out of it.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

iowamtb said:


> AHHHH well maybe that's why I haven't had any trouble. Honestly I slid my drop outs back for this reason but I noticed with the hour glass flare of the chain stay, it looks like a larger tire will only fit if you run it in the middle. If you slide it all the way back, the middle of your tires sidewall will be riding right where the narrowest part of the chain stay crosses it. I want the fattest part of the tire to ride in the "lightbulb" looking area of the stay. Not sure if this makes sense but it does if you look at the bike. Besides that I don't take this bike crazy off roading. I just ride gravel on both my bikes and if any single track is in the plan I take my B Side.


It does make sense, but I needed mine all the way back for clearance with the chainstay bridge. I suppose it would probably depend on the tire too... With a flatter crown, they could probably be run further forward. The Happy Medium or Riddler come to mind- file tread center and knobby outsides.


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## Evan Bacon (May 18, 2009)

Using a thru axle wheel would help, however they do not offer a compatible dropout that is covered under warranty.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Bikepacking on the soma is still preferred over my mountain bike









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## Evan Bacon (May 18, 2009)

*New IRD Dropouts*









I saw some pictures of the next wolverine prototype leaked on Instagram recently and it looks like someone at IRD finally got around to designing a new sliding dropout tab. If you ask me this should have happened a year ago, but at least they've admitted the old design had some problems. I assume they'll offer thru axle tabs as well, although it looks like the same dropouts so you should still be able to run Paragon parts too. Hopefully they will start producing these right away, but realistically I would guess they wont show up on frames for at least 6 to 8 months.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

^ ugh, I just bought the new version with the brace. I probably would have waited had I known, where was this post 3 weeks ago???? JK

Good to see they have a new design, if mine cracks I hope they replace it with that ^. 

It's a lot better looking than the stupid brace on my frame. Plus it slightly interferes with the adjustment screw. Oh well.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Those drouputs look quite a bit different than the current Wolverine dropouts. The seatstay attaches at mid-sliding part, vice at the front like the current one. They only have one eyelet, vice two. I really like that the chainstay attaches slightly lower than the dropout, which will hopefully reduce chainslap by getting it further from the chain. Mine drove me nuts unitl I put on a clutch derailleur. 

One improvement that hopefully happened - increase space between non drove side sliding part and the eyelet. I have a rear rack to carry my kids baby seat on the rear of my wolverine, and aboslutely hate how if I have the dropouts anywhere except all the way back, I can't put a nut of the back of the eyey for extra security. 

Honestly though, the best improvement they could make is to use a regular standard dropout. It would solve all the design problems with the sliding dropout. I know it would single out the single speed and IGH guys, but would make it a better bike for the rest of us. Maybe make both types?


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## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

That's a lot better design. It now looks a lot like the Spot Rocker dropout, where the loads aren't nearly as cantilevered out there:


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## WarPigs (Dec 21, 2005)

so what is the difference in the wheelbase length?


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## Evan Bacon (May 18, 2009)

SpeedyStein said:


> Those drouputs look quite a bit different than the current Wolverine dropouts. The seatstay attaches at mid-sliding part, vice at the front like the current one. They only have one eyelet, vice two. I really like that the chainstay attaches slightly lower than the dropout, which will hopefully reduce chainslap by getting it further from the chain. Mine drove me nuts unitl I put on a clutch derailleur.
> 
> One improvement that hopefully happened - increase space between non drove side sliding part and the eyelet. I have a rear rack to carry my kids baby seat on the rear of my wolverine, and aboslutely hate how if I have the dropouts anywhere except all the way back, I can't put a nut of the back of the eyey for extra security.
> 
> Honestly though, the best improvement they could make is to use a regular standard dropout. It would solve all the design problems with the sliding dropout. I know it would single out the single speed and IGH guys, but would make it a better bike for the rest of us. Maybe make both types?


So basically this? Or do you also want thru axles?


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## WarPigs (Dec 21, 2005)

DC have less clearance for tires


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

No sliders? I wouldn't have bought this frame without sliders, or some way to tension a chain. Track ends work too. My most recent SS has Paragon swingers/rockers. There's no adjustment screw for fine adjustments when centering the wheel, but it works just fine and is supposed to be the strongest according to my frame builder. 

TA's would be a welcome addition. 12mm front and rear please. Not a deal breaker though, I'll be using bolt on hubs. 

While we're making requests that will never happen, can I have a 44mm headtube too?


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## Evan Bacon (May 18, 2009)

WarPigs said:


> DC have less clearance for tires


I bet they kill the DC next year. Nobody is buying loaded touring frames with rim brakes these days.

"Our robust Saga Disc frame set is ready to take you on adventures all over the planet, It is purposely designed to ride better loaded up than naked. This updated version now fits tires up to 2.1", but the 700c models will longer fit road triple cranks. We recommend using MTB triples or doubles, which make more sense more cyclists go to wider, more sure-footed tires. - Specially chosen Tange Prestige heat-treated CrMo tubing; 31.8mm butted downtube and top tube for a stiffer front triangle. Larger frames have slightly thicker gauge tubing."

Saga Disc Frame Set | SOMA Fabrications


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## Evan Bacon (May 18, 2009)

Sounds like the Salsa Marrakesh


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## doismellbacon (Sep 20, 2007)

Hey folks, haven't checked in on this thread in quite a while. 2.5 years now on my Wolverine and going strong. I'm wanting to add a rear rack, preferably one that's powder coated black and not ridiculously expensive... Anybody have any advice for what works or what to avoid? I'm running TRP mechanical brakes, no fenders... if either of those matter for fitment. Thanks in advance!


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Evan Bacon said:


> I bet they kill the DC next year. Nobody is buying loaded touring frames with rim brakes these days.
> 
> "Our robust Saga Disc frame set is ready to take you on adventures all over the planet, It is purposely designed to ride better loaded up than naked. This updated version now fits tires up to 2.1", but the 700c models will longer fit road triple cranks. We recommend using MTB triples or doubles, which make more sense more cyclists go to wider, more sure-footed tires. - Specially chosen Tange Prestige heat-treated CrMo tubing; 31.8mm butted downtube and top tube for a stiffer front triangle. Larger frames have slightly thicker gauge tubing."
> 
> Saga Disc Frame Set | SOMA Fabrications


I am slightly surprised they kept the Saga... since there seems to be a lot of overlap between the new Saga and the Wolverine. Geo is a fair bit different, the Saga seems to have a more upright fit. I am very curious about the tubing spec of one vs the other. I would love to ride them back to back with the same kit, just to see how fit/feel is between them. Kinda surprised how long the chainstays are on the Saga too - 450mm is really long, even for a touring bike. I guess that is how they can promise 29x2.1 will fit, and still be able to run a double crankset.

To answer your earlier question - It depends.

If my chainstays broke next week, and SOMA was warrantying my frame, I would probably ask for a Double Cross instead of a Wolverine. The decision point would be tough, because I like being able to run bigger tires. If I could be sure the WTB Resolute tires would fit in the Double Cross with proper clearance, that would definitely be my choice. However, all reports I hear about those tires is they plump to a bit larger than the advertised 42mm... which means I would be getting really close to the clearances advertised for the Double Cross, and I don't really want smaller tires than those.

If I was building a new bike from scratch, I would look for a design optimized for a range of 700x40 to 700x60 tires, thru axles (15mm front 12mm rear), roughly the same dimensions as the wolverine but with a slightly longer headtube, slightly shorter chainstays, slightly higher BB, and much stiffer fork than original Wolverine. Better braze on locations are also needed.

More on braze ons:
1. The cable stop on the chainstay on my Wolverine drives me nuts. I am always rubbing my heel on the cable. Put it directly on the bottom, not on the side! 
2. I love having two sets of braze ons on the fork, but put them close enough together to put a bottle cage on them. That way, run a top and/or low rider rack, or run two extra bottles/anything cages. 
3. The top tube rear brake cable run kinda sucks - I wish it was on the downtube. I know, with the brake on the outside of the chainstay, it had to go there for clean cabling. 
4. The bottle cage bolts are awfully low in the frame triangle. I had a hard time finding two cages that would fit there together - the two I originally had would not. I know, frame bag clearance and all... but if I am running a frame bag, I am probably not running bottle cages. Moving just one of them 3mm further up would make it a lot easier to fit two bottle cages without them rubbing together.

On the tire size: I ride mostly pavement. Rough, Oakland pavement. I ride through parts of town where I really don't want a flat tire. When I do ride offroad on this bike, I tend to ride dry, dusty, cow/weather pocked fire roads - bumpy is an understatement sometimes. That's why I run 29 x 2.25 Ninelines on my Wolverine now - give me all the float I can fit, without huge knobs to slow me down on the road. I would love to squeeze those tires into a bike with just slightly shorter chainstays and a smidge less BB drop to make it just a tad more fun with tires that big.

Anyway, I guess that is the inner workings of my mind and the bike I would be most in love with. I will be honest, I get a lot more time to think about my bike than I do to ride it. I spend 6-7 months deployed every year, and I usually travel quite a bit when I'm not deployed. I average roughly 1500 miles/year between 3 bikes, and the Wolverine gets the lion's share of those miles on my commute. It does the job of 3 bikes, and this versatility is why I built it in the first place. It commutes, it does mixed terrain rides, and it goes around the neighborhood with my kids, usually with my daughter riding in the baby seat on the back. For all of those jobs, it performs admirably.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

doismellbacon said:


> Hey folks, haven't checked in on this thread in quite a while. 2.5 years now on my Wolverine and going strong. I'm wanting to add a rear rack, preferably one that's powder coated black and not ridiculously expensive... Anybody have any advice for what works or what to avoid? I'm running TRP mechanical brakes, no fenders... if either of those matter for fitment. Thanks in advance!


I have the Blackburn EX-1 on mine, TRP Spyres, no fenders. It fits very well. With the sliders all the way back, I can fit a nut on the inside of the eyelet for extra security. With the sliders further forward, there isn't clearance for a nut.

https://www.blackburndesign.com/racks/rear-racks/ex-1-rack.html

Pretty basic, nearly bulletproof. I use this one because it fits my daughters co-pilot baby seat. It also works very well with panniers, trunks, etc.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

How my bike got so dirty for the picture above!


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## Lyt (Dec 19, 2017)

Hi,

I'm planning on building up a wolverine with 700c x 48mm Soma Supple Vitesse Ex tubeless tires. Can anyone recommend some fenders that will fit with these tires? What's the maximum sized fenders that will fit in the Wolverine?


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

So apparently Soma announced the V3.0 frame will soon be available with the new dropouts and no ugly braces. 

I'm thrilled personally. I love that my new frame is obsolete before it's even built. 

Awesome.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Psycho1 said:


> Bikepacking on the soma is still preferred over my mountain bike
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I bikepacked once on my Wolvie. It rode so nice. The issue I have is I don't have much seat to tire clearance. In other words my seat post is not extended very high. On my MTB though I have the post extended really high so I could squeeze a car tire behind the seat if I wanted to lol.


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## Ksousa81 (Aug 22, 2011)

Planning on getting a wolverine frame. Looking to run 29x2.00 tires. my understanding the lugged fork has clearance for 2.00. Does the soma carbon fork fit a 2.00? Does anyone run another carbon fork that will take 2.00 to 2.2 29er tires?


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

The Soma Carbon Gravel fork only clears 40c tires.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

iowamtb said:


> I bikepacked once on my Wolvie. It rode so nice. The issue I have is I don't have much seat to tire clearance. In other words my seat post is not extended very high. On my MTB though I have the post extended really high so I could squeeze a car tire behind the seat if I wanted to lol.


I have tons of space, less space on my mountain bike.. And the soma handles the weight really nice

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## rzldzl (Apr 6, 2011)

The new V3.0 is now up on Soma's website.
Wolverine v.3.0 Frame | SOMA Fabrications


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

rzldzl said:


> The new V3.0 is now up on Soma's website.
> Wolverine v.3.0 Frame | SOMA Fabrications


Pretty cool!


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

I'm currently debating a few bikes but a Wolverine is on the list. I plan to run a 1X drivetrain, is there any chain ring clearance issues? I'm also strongly considering a Double Cross.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

ALS650L said:


> I'm currently debating a few bikes but a Wolverine is on the list. I plan to run a 1X drivetrain, is there any chain ring clearance issues? I'm also strongly considering a Double Cross.


No. I ran a 42 no problems


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

ALS650L said:


> I'm currently debating a few bikes but a Wolverine is on the list. I plan to run a 1X drivetrain, is there any chain ring clearance issues? I'm also strongly considering a Double Cross.


I have an ultegra crankset on mine, originally with 46-36, now with 40t wolf tooth elliptical, no issues whatsoever. Could probably run a 44t or 46t wolf tooth without issue, and they are offset inboard quite a bit.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

SpeedyStein said:


> I have an ultegra crankset on mine, originally with 46-36, now with 40t wolf tooth elliptical, no issues whatsoever. Could probably run a 44t or 46t wolf tooth without issue, and they are offset inboard quite a bit.


I was thinking since such large road doubles would fit that a pretty large single would be fine. I couldn't find any mention of max size but saw posts with folks running in the 36-40 range.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

ALS650L said:


> I was thinking since such large road doubles would fit that a pretty large single would be fine. I couldn't find any mention of max size but saw posts with folks running in the 36-40 range.


I think it would depend on chainline, and whether you mounted a single to the inside or outside of the spider.









That's at the most oval part of my chainring, and it has about 5mm from the chainstay perpendicular to the chainline, and at least 8 or so parallel with the chainline, if that makes sense. Again, ultegra crank with wolf tooth ring, so my chainline is somewhat between inner and outer rings on standard road double. With a race face or other ring that doesn't offset inboard, you could definitely use a much larger ring.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

I ran a race face crankset with a 38 tooth in the middle position no problem. I upgraded to s Sram Rival crankset with a 42 round and it too was no problem. Currently on the Rival set I have a Wolf Tooth 36 oval


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I ran a Stylo MTB crank with 46t in the center ring. One driveside spacer in the bottom bracket. It cleared.

Warrantied my frameset. hope to have the new one here in a week or two. Went with pearl black.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Agwan said:


> Warrantied my frameset. hope to have the new one here in a week or two. Went with pearl black.


Dang, did you have the dreaded chainstay snap? Or some other issue? You had yours for a long time, did Soma give you a hard time about the warranty claim?


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Mine didn't snap, but it was one of the first 100 they ever built. So it's at a really high risk. But the paint started falling off the decals almost immediately after I got it. It flaked off really bad at the sliders and rack mounts. My seat tube was 27.3+ and the post kept slipping. And the sliders weren't aligned.

Still loved the bike. but the eventual crack that was coming my way made it all too much. Mary didn't reply to my Emails... much as the person before her didn't either. So I called her, once I got her on the line She was very polite and I was well taken care of. She even helped me by sizing my frame up a size, as I've lost a lot of weight since I first bought the Wolverine, and now ride a larger frame. 

Knock on wood, because I don't have my replacement frame yet, but my old frame won't even get to them until 1/17 ish. 

For now I'm on another Straggler, which we joke about. because my last 4 bikes will now be...

Black Straggler (Warrantied for VERY crooked drop outs)
Orange Wolverine (Warrantied for many things)
Mint Straggler (Still going strong.)
Black Wolverine (Incoming.)

In the long run the Straggler will be my flat bar shorter distance tank, and the Wolverine will be my drop bar long commute-Short tourer. I intend to keep both for very different tasks.

I really miss my Wolverine. I'll be happy to get it back, minus the worries the old frame gave me.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Yeah, I've noticed the paint on mine isn't too durable, but at least the places that have chipped off have been my own fault. My dropouts are also about 1/8 of an inch off from one another, but I can still get the wheel straight and even between the stays, and it rolls straight, so not a big deal to me. The seat tube would be very frustrating. 

I hope your luck improves on your next one! The new black looks great too!


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

*GREAT NEWS - Soma now has 12mm dropouts for Wolverine*

So I just got an email follow up on one I sent back in Dec 2017 inquiring about 12mm dropouts, telling me that Soma now has 12mm dropouts for the Wolverine frames. Dropouts will fit V1-current and come in Shimano or DT Swiss axle flavors.

Call 1-800-245-9959 to order

View attachment 1178757


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

^ UUGGHH. I just placed an order for a fancy bolt on hub yesterday. The hits just keep coming.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

*OneSpeed* said:


> ^ UUGGHH. I just placed an order for a fancy bolt on hub yesterday. The hits just keep coming.


Dang, sorry to hear that. Is your hub convertible?

In similar vein, the Paragon sliders fit in the Wolverine dropouts also... Soma used to list the part numbers on their website.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Yes it's convertible, it's a Hadley Ti bolt on hub, but I'm not buying new dropouts and a conversion kit. It will be just fine the way it is, I just hate that I missed all this by a few weeks and it's all changing before I have the damn thing built.

It will be just fine though, it won't be different enough that I'm willing to do anything about it at this point. Unless the frame breaks, then I hope I'll get a free new one, but we'll cross that bridge when we come to it.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I did the paragon 12mm axle. It was pretty fantastic. Upgraded with titanium hardware. Probably a reason why my Wolverine hadn't cracked yet.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

I wish I could upgrade my hub, I would have a thru axle setup on there tomorrow, along with the thru axle fork to match. But, old XT hubs can't be converted. Oh well. I have my wish list for my next bike, should something happen to this one.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

So after a few rides on the WTB Resolutes, I'm pretty convinced that these tires were made for the Wolverine. Excellent tires on every surface. They roll fast on pavement, dirt, gravel, mud, you name it. Traction is incredible in all situations. Corners well on both dirt and pavement, no weird transition between knobs or squirm. The more I ride these tires, the more I love them.

And they look the business with the tanwall! And I can slide the dropouts all the way forward!


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## AA Commie (Feb 2, 2018)

Did you go with the Venturemax bars?


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## joshhan (Apr 1, 2011)

How did I not see this thread until now? So awesome!









Was experimenting with a 26" Trigon carbon fork. They fit the 42mm Soma Cazaderos fine.

Love this frame, I have like 4 wheelsets for it. LOL.


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## JBHD (Apr 9, 2008)

I'm looking for a new bike to replace the Salsa Fargo I've sold a while back. I've been eying on a Wolverine for a possible contender. Want a bike that's fun and fast off road (nothing crazy, mostly gravel and light singletrack), but has a more 'aggressive', roadbike-like geometry.

BUT, I also want to have it as my touring bike, so it has to be able to take (biggish) loads. I wonder how the Wolverine handles loads. Has anyone used it in a full touring setup (front + rear racks/panniers)? How does it handle? Is it (frame as well as the fork) stiff enough?

The All-City Gorilla Monsoon is also a bike I've looked at. It's quite a bit more expensive though and doesn't have sliding dropouts.

Any thoughts?


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## apfrost (Feb 20, 2018)

*wolverine v3.0*

just finished (more or less) my v3.0 wolverine, geared for climbing mountains in vermont with full loads and running compass snoqualmie pass tires tubeless for bombing down dirt roads, it's going to be a fun summer.


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## JBHD (Apr 9, 2008)

apfrost said:


> just finished (more or less) my v3.0 wolverine, geared for climbing mountains in vermont with full loads and running compass snoqualmie pass tires tubeless for bombing down dirt roads, it's going to be a fun summer.
> 
> View attachment 1189600


B-E-A-UTIFUL! Full loads means front + rear racks? Any more pics of that piece of art? Why did you decide to opt for the 'normal' fork instead of the 15mm thru-axle fork?


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## apfrost (Feb 20, 2018)

I have the soma deco rack for the rear, which I'm going to leave off until I have a longer trip planned. Right now, I think I can manage weekend trips between the saddle bag and the front rack, which will handle small front panniers.

went with the normal fork over the thru-axle both for looks (not in love with the uni-crown) and for the extra mounting options, as the thru-axle fork doesn't have the mini-rack mounts.

this feels like the perfect do everything bike, and these compass 700x44 tires are like riding on clouds!

the red doesn't photograph well, but it's perfect, slightly orangey in a nod to the previous generation, and super sharp


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

apfrost said:


> just finished (more or less) my v3.0 wolverine, geared for climbing mountains in vermont with full loads and running compass snoqualmie pass tires tubeless for bombing down dirt roads, it's going to be a fun summer.
> 
> View attachment 1189600


Love the red with fat tanwalls - great looking build! I haven't ridden them yet, but I imagine those 44mm compass tires set up tubeless must ride absolutely heavenly on a Wolverine.


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## apfrost (Feb 20, 2018)

they're like cycling on a cloud


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

apfrost said:


> they're like cycling on a cloud


I imagine they are. I would love to build up a second bike with those tires - if I didn't need knobs on the Wolverine I would have been on a set of those a while ago.


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## apfrost (Feb 20, 2018)

which knobbies are you running? I've been thinking I should take the wheels off a mountain bike I don't ride and use them as a second set with knobs for the wolverine, but I just keep wishing that compass made their steilacoom in something wider than 38.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

I'm running the WTB Resolutes in 700x42 on i23 rims. They are fantastic - light for a 42mm knobby, nice center tread for smooth and fast pavement rolling, nice little micro knobs for good all around grip, they look great with the tanish-rustish colored sidewalls, off-road traction is fantastic, and they setup tubeless super easily. Fantastic tire, perfect for an all around everywhere kinda bike. I ahvent had the chance to take them through any slick, slimy, deep mud yet, but I imagine they should do ok - will likely sink to the bottom and hook up where a true mtb tire would float and squirm. They are grippier in loose dirt than the Nobby Nics I just took off my mtb...


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## joshhan (Apr 1, 2011)

apfrost said:


> which knobbies are you running? I've been thinking I should take the wheels off a mountain bike I don't ride and use them as a second set with knobs for the wolverine, but I just keep wishing that compass made their steilacoom in something wider than 38.


Take a look at the tubeless version of the Soma Cazaderos. I think they are nominal 50mm.


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## apfrost (Feb 20, 2018)

I've been eyeballing both the cazadero and the resolute, they both seem like great tires for chunkier/offroad stuff.


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## LexD (Mar 10, 2018)

Like most of you already did, I've also started to build a Wolverine. It will be a belt drive! Keeping notes/photos of the build here: https://medium.com/building-a-soma-wolverine. Will post some pictures when I have a full bike to show! (Building the wheels atm)


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

LexD said:


> Like most of you already did, I've also started to build a Wolverine. It will be a belt drive! Keeping notes/photos of the build here: https://medium.com/building-a-soma-wolverine. Will post some pictures when I have a full bike to show! (Building the wheels atm)


Right on! Should be a fun build - I like that belt drive is an option on the Wolverine. Would make an awesome single speed/IGH commuter/tourer bike.


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## apfrost (Feb 20, 2018)

LexD said:


> Like most of you already did, I've also started to build a Wolverine. It will be a belt drive! Keeping notes/photos of the build here: https://medium.com/building-a-soma-wolverine. Will post some pictures when I have a full bike to show! (Building the wheels atm)


nice!

my ultimate plan is to switch to belt drive and and alfine 11 for winter commuting--looking forward to seeing how your build comes together.

what shifters are you pairing with your hub?


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

apfrost said:


> I've been eyeballing both the cazadero and the resolute, they both seem like great tires for chunkier/offroad stuff.


The Cazadero looks like a great tire. It has a little more of a pronounced center ridge, which makes me think it would roll pretty fast on the pavement. It is a little heavier than the Resolute, but on a bike like this, unless you ride everywhere unloaded, that probably won't be an issue.

I went with the Resolute simply because WTB tires are so easy to setup tubeless, especially on WTB rims. Of note - I have never burped a WTB tire, or had any sort of issue with tire/rim seal. The Resolute was designed to pair perfectly with a 23mm rim, and I am running WTB i23s - seemed too good to be true. Plus, they fit perfectly with the sliders all the way forward - a big bonus for me. I have about 300 miles on mine, and they are fast, everywhere. Dirt, road, gravel, sand, everywhere. They also have excellent grip, everywhere. On i23s, they are 42.5mm wide, at about 32psi.

Check out Guitar Ted's tire reviews - he has tested pretty much everything, and was a big influence in my decision making process with this. Not sure if he did a test of the 50mm Caz, but he did a good test of the 42.

WTB Resolute Tire: Getting Rolling -

Soma Fab's Cazadero 42mm Tires: Getting Rolling -


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## LexD (Mar 10, 2018)

apfrost said:


> nice!
> 
> my ultimate plan is to switch to belt drive and and alfine 11 for winter commuting--looking forward to seeing how your build comes together.
> 
> what shifters are you pairing with your hub?


I chose the Jtek bar end shifter! Read it's pretty solid and it gives me the option to run the cable under the bar tape. That, and price, are the reasons I took this one instead of the microshift brifter.


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## apfrost (Feb 20, 2018)

LexD said:


> I chose the Jtek bar end shifter! Read it's pretty solid and it gives me the option to run the cable under the bar tape. That, and price, are the reasons I took this one instead of the microshift brifter.


nice! I've been looking at that, it seems like the perfect combo for this bike.


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## apfrost (Feb 20, 2018)

SpeedyStein said:


> The Cazadero looks like a great tire. It has a little more of a pronounced center ridge, which makes me think it would roll pretty fast on the pavement. It is a little heavier than the Resolute, but on a bike like this, unless you ride everywhere unloaded, that probably won't be an issue.
> 
> I went with the Resolute simply because WTB tires are so easy to setup tubeless, especially on WTB rims. Of note - I have never burped a WTB tire, or had any sort of issue with tire/rim seal. The Resolute was designed to pair perfectly with a 23mm rim, and I am running WTB i23s - seemed too good to be true. Plus, they fit perfectly with the sliders all the way forward - a big bonus for me. I have about 300 miles on mine, and they are fast, everywhere. Dirt, road, gravel, sand, everywhere. They also have excellent grip, everywhere. On i23s, they are 42.5mm wide, at about 32psi.
> 
> ...


that does sound like an ideal setup!

any second set is going to be on a wheelset that isn't tubeless ready (as that's the one I have lying around), but I'm thinking I'll give a tubeless setup anyway and see how it goes.

the guitar ted reviews are great, and I'm also thinking about the rock n road tires--http://www.bgcycles.com/new-page/


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## LexD (Mar 10, 2018)

Just finished my build and took it for a short spin 









Really happy with the result! Only job left is some work on the alfine hub: change the oil and sort out a cabling issue (had to do a few re-adjustments this short trip) and it'll be ready for lots and lotsof kms!


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## almlof (Nov 12, 2017)

So, I finally followed thru and bought a frame set. A 3.0 in pearl black. Kind of bugs me that the changed it, I think both colours in the 2.0/2.1 was better than the 3.0. 
Aaanyhow. 
I'm slowly gathering the bits and pieces but go stuck on a major issue. The cranks and the gears. I currently have a sram force 09 crank set that I was planning on using. But its 130bcd and I'm looking at going to the unpaved roads and a few single tracks, so I really want a smaller cog than 39t up front. 
I also have a older sram mtb crank set and I'm considering putting that on on instead. 
The gears was originally going to be 2x10 but now, with the crank set thing, I'm looking at a 1x11 group instead.. 
Is this just superficial and should I be fine with the 130bcd crank set, say combined with a 11-36 cassette?


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

almlof said:


> Is this just superficial and should I be fine with the 130bcd crank set, say combined with a 11-36 cassette?


Yes, a 1x is a sweet setup depending on where you live and how you intend to use the bike. A 39x11-36 will cover a lot of terrain. You'll just want a clutch derailleur.

I have mine setup 42x11-42 10 speed.


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## apfrost (Feb 20, 2018)

almlof said:


> Is this just superficial and should I be fine with the 130bcd crank set, say combined with a 11-36 cassette?


depends on where your hills I think, but you could also just go with an 11-42 or something to get a little lower, depending on your rear derailleur choice


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## almlof (Nov 12, 2017)

*OneSpeed* said:


> Yes, a 1x is a sweet setup depending on where you live and how you intend to use the bike. A 39x11-36 will cover a lot of terrain. You'll just want a clutch derailleur.
> 
> I have mine setup 42x11-42 10 speed.


What cassette are you running? My daily commuter is set up with 40x11-36 (10s), but I feel like I'm missing a lot of gears in between. 
The thing is I really dislike setting up front derailleurs. Never get them running smooth. So removing that issue would be awesome. 
Oooon the other hand, a new mini-group was not in my budget..


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## almlof (Nov 12, 2017)

apfrost said:


> depends on where your hills I think, but you could also just go with an 11-42 or something to get a little lower, depending on your rear derailleur choice


I was looking at the spread of gears and realized that its on the lower cogs that the jumps feel to vast, and those are the same through out 11-36 10s and 11-42 11s. 11-42 10s has got even bigger jumps, naturally, so I think that's not gonna be an option. Running a dubble chain up front with 39t as the smallest almost seams redundant as I'm not very often finding the need to go faster than 40-11 allows me to.  So I might stick with my tacky 40/11-36 for now and later on switch to 11s 42/10-42. 
Jees, how hard could it be, right?


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

I'm using a Shimano Deore 11-42t cassette. Cheap and durable. I actually much prefer bigger jumps. I'd even be just fine with 11-42 8 speed. 

I also spend most of my time on SS's, so I'm not at all cadence sensitive. The less shifting the better.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I do XT 11-42 on both my commuters. The short range bike has a 48t Narrow Wide and the long range has a 50-34 up front. If I had to do the short range bike again, I'd do 44x11-46. A small sacrifice in top end. But all the low anyone could ever need.

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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

I also use the XT 11-42. It's pretty awesome. With big 29x2.2 tires, I used a 36t up front, now with the 42c Resolutes I have a 40t elliptical. It works excellent for everything I ride - keeping in mind I almost always have the mini rack on the front, and occasionally a basket too. I don't mind the jumps between cogs because I find myself usually at one end of the cassette or the other - either going up or down a hill, where gear range takes precendence over fine-tuning the cadence for me. Just the other day I hit 35mph on a paved descent, with the basket full of my commute. For this bike and that type of riding, that's plenty fast for my top end. If I wanna go faster I grab my other bike. 

I do have a lot of love for Wolf Tooth's elliptical rings - they are great! My 40t climbs like a 38 and descends like a 42, and cadence feels good on the flat too.


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## slowride454 (Jan 11, 2014)

I love my Double Cross, but have been lusting after a Wolverine for a while now. How does the bike compare to a Salsa Fargo or Cutthroat?


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## MindEyeSight (Nov 19, 2013)

Had a Double Cross about 5 years ago. Rode it hard for 2-3 years. Max I could fit was 38mm tires with fenders and I really wanted bigger, cushier tires, so I got the Wolverine. I put Bruce Gordon Rock n Roads (700x42?) on there under fenders, and switched to the Compass Snoqualamie Pass (700x44) as soon as they came out. I really think the Wolverine is a better bike, specifically for 2 reasons: (1) larger tire clearance is way better for the riding I do and (2) the Wolverine fork is so vertically compliant and wonderfully flexy that the whole bike just planes better. 

I know plenty of people will disagree, but that’s my take on the whole thing. If I could do it over again, I would have just bought a 650b wheelset and some Switchback Hills (650bx48), but this was the early days of 650b and I had no idea if it was a fad or would really stick around.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Much different bike. The Fargo and cutthroat are a dropbar mountain bike. Very capable off road. I love my wolverine and ride it mostly on trails. It's faster than the cutthroat but much more challenging on single track than a cutthroat. The wolverine is a trail worthy road bike. The salsa offerings are a somewhat road worthy mountain bike.


slowride454 said:


> I love my Double Cross, but have been lusting after a Wolverine for a while now. How does the bike compare to a Salsa Fargo or Cutthroat?


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

MindEyeSight said:


> Had a Double Cross about 5 years ago. Rode it hard for 2-3 years. Max I could fit was 38mm tires with fenders and I really wanted bigger, cushier tires, so I got the Wolverine. .


The current Double Cross will fit up to a 45 without fenders according to Soma. That being said I have a set of WTB Resolute 42c on mine with fenders. The resolute measures over 43mm too.


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## bkinsman (Feb 10, 2017)

I've noticed a couple of people are running Tara Tubus low rider racks, how are the clearances with 650b? 
I have 2.2x27.5 Maxxis Ardent Race's, wondering If I'll get away with the normal or need the Big Apple version of the rack?


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## not_hip (May 16, 2018)

Hi! Hope I'm not hijacking the thread. I'm looking for a frameset. Wolverine ticks all the boxes, but the reach is a bit long for me (long legs, short torso). Has anybody found a close alternative to the Wolverine?

More on what I'm looking for *here*.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Looked at your post with your ideal bike requirements... Wolverine comes pretty close. I normally ride a 56, and went with a 54 based on top tube length for - happy I did because I'm using a 70mm stem. Maybe look at a 58 with a short stem? I was a little skeptical at first, and I even flamed SOMA a little here and there for strange geo, but now that I am used to it, I actually really like it.

Mine seems to handle better with a shorter stem anyway, BTW.



not_hip said:


> Hi! Hope I'm not hijacking the thread. I'm looking for a frameset. Wolverine ticks all the boxes, but the reach is a bit long for me (long legs, short torso). Has anybody found a close alternative to the Wolverine?
> 
> More on what I'm looking for *here*.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Also, for what it's worth, I measured my frame's stack and reach, and they were both longer than the site said they should be... A 54 is spec'd as 395/566 reach/stack, but mine measured 408/573. Granted, I am pretty unsophisticated without fancy tools for this, but I think it's weird that I came up with that much of a difference -especially since I have measured other bikes with given geo and come within a mm or 2 of published specs. 


SpeedyStein said:


> Looked at your post with your ideal bike requirements... Wolverine comes pretty close. I normally ride a 56, and went with a 54 based on top tube length for - happy I did because I'm using a 70mm stem. Maybe look at a 58 with a short stem? I was a little skeptical at first, and I even flamed SOMA a little here and there for strange geo, but now that I am used to it, I actually really like it.
> 
> Mine seems to handle better with a shorter stem anyway, BTW.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## not_hip (May 16, 2018)

SpeedyStein said:


> Also, for what it's worth, I measured my frame's stack and reach, and they were both longer than the site said they should be... A 54 is spec'd as 395/566 reach/stack, but mine measured 408/573. Granted, I am pretty unsophisticated without fancy tools for this, but I think it's weird that I came up with that much of a difference -especially since I have measured other bikes with given geo and come within a mm or 2 of published specs.


Well, that makes things even more complicated. If only I could test ride these things. No dealers in my country though.



SpeedyStein said:


> Looked at your post with your ideal bike requirements... Wolverine comes pretty close. I normally ride a 56, and went with a 54 based on top tube length for - happy I did because I'm using a 70mm stem. Maybe look at a 58 with a short stem? I was a little skeptical at first, and I even flamed SOMA a little here and there for strange geo, but now that I am used to it, I actually really like it.


I run a 80 mm 35 degree stem on my bike that has a 390 mm reach. :shocked:

The Soma Saga actually looks quite good. Too bad there is no size between the 61 cm (which has a 585 mm seat post) and the 66 cm (which has a 645 mm seat post). Reach on the 66 cm model is even lower than the 62 cm Wolverine (403 mm for the Saga vs 412 mm for the Wolverine). Not quite sure I'm up to the 89.5 cm (with 45 mm tires) standover height though. Inseam is between 91.5 cm and 93.5 cm depending on how far up I press the the book. I'm 187 cm tall. If frames are actually larger than specs on their site, I'm toast.

The 58 cm Wolverine will put me in the same seatpost in the sky situation as I am now.

Perhaps I should just copy the Wolverine geo, shorten the top tube and send the thing over to Waltly.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

not_hip said:


> Well, that makes things even more complicated. If only I could test ride these things. No dealers in my country though.
> 
> I run a 80 mm 35 degree stem on my bike that has a 390 mm reach. :shocked:
> 
> ...


One thing to keep in mind too is head tube length - the Wolverine has a pretty short headtube. They really are long and low bikes. Maybe check out the Double Cross? The new model can take 45mm tires, probably without fenders though. The reach is a fair bit shorter, and the headtube is a bit longer than the Wolverine. Might actually be almost exactly what you are after.

I've been thinking about building up a Double Cross myself, as a fast all-roader, using WTB Resolutes in 700x42, then committing my Wolverine to commuter duty. Unfortunately, cash is a little low for new bikes at the moment, so it will have to wait.

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## blantonator (May 6, 2007)

two questions for you guys. 

Does anyone know if the 15TA fork holes as large of a tire as the QR fork? I'd like to run a large volume mtb tire for some trips.

Also, anyone running a flat bar/ jones bar? How much longer of a stem did you need to get the right fit?

Thanks!


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## bkinsman (Feb 10, 2017)

I have a Maxxis 2.2 on the front/rear. Rear is maxed out but I think I could fit a 2.4 up front


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## blantonator (May 6, 2007)

with which fork!?


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## bkinsman (Feb 10, 2017)

Wolverine thru axle fork


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## blantonator (May 6, 2007)

bkinsman said:


> Wolverine thru axle fork


Sweet!

I'm torn on the functionality of thru-axle for the aesthetics of the crown fork.


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## bkinsman (Feb 10, 2017)

Im on mobile so can't post a pic but here's mine on instagram. Got a rando rack and tara tubus connected to the mid fork eyelet

__
http://instagr.am/p/BjoG58qBPVJ/


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

blantonator said:


> Sweet!
> 
> I'm torn on the functionality of thru-axle for the aesthetics of the crown fork.


I went for the lugged crown fork for aesthetics. I have a 2.1" Racing Ralph on a Stans Arch MK3 rim. It doesn't rub but I wouldn't put a bigger tire in there.


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## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

In the description of the through axle fork, Soma says the tire clearance is tighter than the lugged fork.



blantonator said:


> two questions for you guys.
> 
> Does anyone know if the 15TA fork holes as large of a tire as the QR fork? I'd like to run a large volume mtb tire for some trips.
> 
> ...


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

What tires are those?


bkinsman said:


> Im on mobile so can't post a pic but here's mine on instagram. Got a rando rack and tara tubus connected to the mid fork eyelet
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/BjoG58qBPVJ/


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Psycho1 said:


> What tires are those?
> 
> Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk


Those look like Ardent Race. Great all around tire, from what I hear.

If you are trying to decide thru-axle vs qr fork, just go thru axle. It wasn't available when I got my bike, and I have always wished it was, and now I am trying to justify buying the thru axle fork, thru axle sliders, and a new wheelset vs just buying a whole new bike.

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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

blantonator said:


> two questions for you guys.
> 
> Does anyone know if the 15TA fork holes as large of a tire as the QR fork? I'd like to run a large volume mtb tire for some trips.
> 
> ...


I ran a flat bar for a little while - I used a 100mm stem, and use 70mm with my current drop bars. It was ok, but not ideal, a 110 would have probably been better for me. Sometimes you just gotta try a couple though, and find what works for you.

The bigger issue was the large tires I had on then - 29x2.2 made the bike feel super sluggish with the sliders all the way back.

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## kyttyra (Mar 8, 2012)

As of yet, my V2 hasn't cracked yet (knocks on wood):


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Mine did yesterday









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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Cool. Time for a warranty. The V.3 resolves this and a lot of other issues the early Wolverines have. I was really disappointed in my V1. It was not the quality I had come to expect.

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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Agwan said:


> Cool. Time for a warranty. The V.3 resolves this and a lot of other issues the early Wolverines have. I was really disappointed in my V1. It was not the quality I had come to expect.
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk


I've really loved mine. Really bummed. What other improvements were made?. I just wish they had orange still.

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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Better paint. E coated internally. Tighter tolerances at the bb, seat and headtubes.

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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Just the e coat is a worthy upgrade. Wow 

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## edubfromktown (Sep 7, 2010)

I acquired a 58 cm clincher version of the Wolverine a few months ago and click off 35mi round trip work commutes on it a couple times a week (with some MTB trail options can C&O canal tow path gravel along the way).

Running tubeless 1.8" Slant 6 pros at the moment and plan on going with Thunder Burt 2.0's to eke out a bit move volume/cush and lower rolling resistance. Is anyone running ~2.1" tires or is that pushing one's luck? I have a few Niner branded Racing Ralph 2.25's that are really 2.1's and thought of maybe trying them. (I run Racing Ralph 2.25's and 2.35/2.4's on a herd of different 29er's with great success).


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## formula4speed (Mar 25, 2013)

Anyone's frame crack out of warranty? Are you just SOL at that point? My v1 is still doing okay, but I've only got a month of warranty left. Makes me a little nervous.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

formula4speed said:


> Anyone's frame crack out of warranty? Are you just SOL at that point? My v1 is still doing okay, but I've only got a month of warranty left. Makes me a little nervous.


Jim Porter has repeatedly stated that he will warranty this specific issue beyond the standard warranty period. Just reach out to him on Facebook. It seems to have a faster turn around than the Soma email.

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## formula4speed (Mar 25, 2013)

Cool, that makes me feel a bit better. I'm cautiously optimistic I'll be okay, I'm pretty light at 150 pounds and I don't really hit singletrack with my Wolverine, only pavement and gravel. I do really like the ride quality so I hope it holds up for me.


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## objectuser (Oct 27, 2013)

I've been contemplating a Wolverine build. This has been a very useful thread. I haven't built a bike since I was racing BMX as a kid. This is definitely more complicated!

My goal for this build is a comfortable and fun road bike, something I can ride in the city on crappy streets, on paved trails, in flat areas and in the mountains. I don't plan to take it off road, I have a mountain bike for that. I don't even know that the Soma Wolverine is my best steel frame option, but it sparked my interest.

I've been investigating both a 700c and 650b build.

*650b*: The availability of viable tires seems limited. It seems like everyone is running one of the two WTB 650b tires. These do seem like very good tires, though, large, tubeless compatible and 535g. Would be nice to have more options though, that are at least the min 47 width Soma specifies. Anyone have interesting options here?

I've found a few wheel options, each with their own limitation (either axle, cassette speeds, disc, weight or cost). Trying to find wheels has definitely been an exercise in learning, refinement, iteration and prioritization.

*700c*: Some better wheel options here, light enough, not too expensive, gearing options ... There's good reason to favor 700c due to a wider range of available options.

I have been surprised at the weight of larger 700c tires I've found. I think I'm looking at the wrong stuff ... but the weight seems to be in the 800-1000g range. But maybe I'm looking at too large a size (~45c). My current bike is 700x47 (Conti Comfort Contact) and those tires are pretty heavy. I'll continue looking.

Either way, I've been all over the map on drivetrain (Tiagra, 105, Rival?), brakes (hydraulic, TRP Spyre?) and various components (no idea how to choose a stem, drop bars, seat post).

It's been pretty interesting (re-)learning about building a bike.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

objectuser said:


> I've been contemplating a Wolverine build. This has been a very useful thread. I haven't built a bike since I was racing BMX as a kid. This is definitely more complicated!
> 
> My goal for this build is a comfortable and fun road bike, something I can ride in the city on crappy streets, on paved trails, in flat areas and in the mountains. I don't plan to take it off road, I have a mountain bike for that. I don't even know that the Soma Wolverine is my best steel frame option, but it sparked my interest.
> 
> ...


If you aren't planning on taking it off road, you might check out the SOMA Fog Cutter. Similar geo, carbon fork painted to match the frame, regular road QR axles with regular dropouts, and similar tube set. If singlespeed-ability isn't a concern, this might make a winner.

That said, the Wolverine is pretty fantastic, and you won't be wrong for getting one. Being able to fit huge tires is nice. The Wolverine will swallow 29x2.2 tires if you want it to. Single speed is an option; belt drive, 1x, 2x, 3x, or whatever you want to build it up with is cool too. Want thru-axles? Get the unicrown thru axle fork and some sliders from Paragon and you are in business. Want fenders? It has tabs for those. Want a rack? It can do those too, front and back, and at the same time as fenders. Versatile is an understatement with this bike. It does everything, and doesn't look like a Surly with too many bolts/holes in nonsensical places.

In the 650b/700c debate, there are pros/cons with each, as you already stated. I like 700c for the reasons you stated above - easier to find wheels appropriate for the application, tires are also easy to find, and I prefer more roll-over ability. Plus, the geo of this bike was designed with 700c in mind, and BB height is perfect for me with 700x40 or so tires. Tires that large are going to be heavier than their skinnier counterparts, its just the nature of the beast, but a lot of the tubeless gravel tires have light casings, which do help with the weight - at the price of durability. The WTB Resolutes are pretty much the perfect tire for me with this bike - fast, not terribly heavy, traction everywhere, seem to be lasting well enough, and I think they look fantastic on the orange frame.

For kit/cockpit, that is all personal choice. I like my bar end shifter with 1x11, but horses for course, you know. I didn't really see any better alternatives that I could afford when I built mine up. This will get some flame, but I suggest avoiding TRP Spyres. They are much better in theory than in practice. I have Spyres now and will be switching to hydros of some sort in the near future. If you want cable discs, get BB7s or Shimano CX77, or better yet, just go hydraulic.

Overall, though, my Wolverine is my favorite bike, because it rides soooo smoothly, over any terrain. It has taken me on some great rides over lots of different terrain, and I am always glad I rode it at the end. Its not a perfect road bike, and its definitely not a perfect trail bike, but it does strike an excellent balance of go-anywhere and do it quickly. You can't go wrong with a Wolverine.


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## objectuser (Oct 27, 2013)

@SpeedyStein Thanks for the reply!

Funny, soon after I posted above, I started looking at the Fog Cutter. That's now my target frame, but I'm still very open to something else. I'm also interested in the 2018 Kona Rove ST, but I don't know how the quality compares or if I could even find one. I love the 2018 color, not so much the 2019 color.

Anyway, currently focused on the Fog Cutter, so your comment indicates I'm headed in the right direction.

I rode a couple bikes with TRP Spyres and thought they were good. But I've not rode them in anger. They might be more appropriate to road biking vs. trail biking. But that's just a guess.

I've read that 650b wheels with larger tires, like the WTB Byway has a similar radius as a 700x30 tire. So not as big as a 700x40 but still pretty good.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

objectuser said:


> @SpeedyStein Thanks for the reply!
> 
> Funny, soon after I posted above, I started looking at the Fog Cutter. That's now my target frame, but I'm still very open to something else. I'm also interested in the 2018 Kona Rove ST, but I don't know how the quality compares or if I could even find one. I love the 2018 color, not so much the 2019 color.
> 
> ...


Haha, great minds think alike! I am eyeing a Fog Cutter over for myself, actually. Will definitely have to save up some pennies, but would love one with Shimano hydraulic 11 speed group, 32mm tubeless tires mounted up to some A23s or similar. Would make a really nice long ride day bike, or a fun and fast bike to take the long way home on my commute.

I don't like my Spyres because they require so much more adjustment than single piston calipers - it seems like every other time I ride my Wolverine I am adjusting the damn brakes. The sweet spot is pretty narrow, and once you are out of it, they just don't have any power.

Tire and wheel size is totally a personal choice, but be mindful that the Wolverine has a pretty low bottom bracket already. Most of the folks running 650b rubber on Wolverines are running big rubber - 2.1 or so. But, there are certainly others running byways and horizons and not having any problems, so it is your call. I already bump my cranks on rocks occasionally, so I don't think any shorter than 700x40ish will ever go on my bike, simply for that fact.

Good luck, looking forward to seeing what you end up building!


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## joshhan (Apr 1, 2011)

SpeedyStein said:


> I don't like my Spyres because they require so much more adjustment than single piston calipers - it seems like every other time I ride my Wolverine I am adjusting the damn brakes. The sweet spot is pretty narrow, and once you are out of it, they just don't have any power.


I was using Spyres on the Wolverine until one of the bolts seized and I rounded out the bolt in the caliper. They weren't terrible but they weren't that great either. If you want to keep your "brifters" try out the Yokozuna cable actuated hydro brakes. They are really nice and the kit comes with rotors and their really nice brake cable housing.









I am being super lazy though and haven't replaced the front housing. I'm running on the rear and I can actually feel a huge difference in brake feel between the front and the rear. I'll get to it one day.


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## objectuser (Oct 27, 2013)

SpeedyStein said:


> Haha, great minds think alike! I am eyeing a Fog Cutter over for myself, actually. Will definitely have to save up some pennies, but would love one with Shimano hydraulic 11 speed group, 32mm tubeless tires mounted up to some A23s or similar. Would make a really nice long ride day bike, or a fun and fast bike to take the long way home on my commute.


Too funny!

The new 105 (R7000) group is out and supposed to be very good. That would be a nice setup.

I've loved both my Shimano SLX and Sram Guide hydraulics on my mountain bikes so I am very tempted by hydraulics as well. I love the modulation there and I almost never adjust the things.


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## objectuser (Oct 27, 2013)

joshhan said:


> I was using Spyres on the Wolverine until one of the bolts seized and I rounded out the bolt in the caliper. They weren't terrible but they weren't that great either. If you want to keep your "brifters" try out the Yokozuna cable actuated hydro brakes. They are really nice and the kit comes with rotors and their really nice brake cable housing.
> 
> I am being super lazy though and haven't replaced the front housing. I'm running on the rear and I can actually feel a huge difference in brake feel between the front and the rear. I'll get to it one day.


So those are like the TRP Hy/Rd brakes? Cool, I hadn't heard of those. Were you turned off on TRP after the Spyres and that's why you got the Yokozuna brakes?


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## objectuser (Oct 27, 2013)

Found a review that compares them favorably to the TRP Hy/Rd, but they are about $90 more expensive for a pair than the TRPs (at least for the quick search I did).


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

joshhan said:


> I was using Spyres on the Wolverine until one of the bolts seized and I rounded out the bolt in the caliper. They weren't terrible but they weren't that great either. If you want to keep your "brifters" try out the Yokozuna cable actuated hydro brakes. They are really nice and the kit comes with rotors and their really nice brake cable housing.
> 
> View attachment 1217340
> 
> ...


I thought about those a lot - haven't seen a lot of feedback, good or bad, which makes me think that they are still relatively unknown. I think their timing was just unfortunate to bring those to launch - a lot of folks were already eyeing over full hydraulic systems when those launched, and Shimano/SRAM first gen road hydraulic systems had already come down in price.

Alternatively, TRP has the Hylex full hydraulic system, that you can do di2 or gevenalle with, or of course bar end, single speed, or downtube shifters. I thought a lot about that too, because I like my end. I already had the TRPs and Tektro levers in my parts bin though, and couldn't justify spending that much more, so I went with what I had on hand. If I ever re-configure this bike, I will likely go with a Shimano 11sp hydraulic setup.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

objectuser said:


> Found a review that compares them favorably to the TRP Hy/Rd, but they are about $90 more expensive for a pair than the TRPs (at least for the quick search I did).


I think the price difference is OK considering they come with decent rotors and a really nice cable kit - the cable kit is usually $60 for a front/back, which isn't really terrible on its own. But, for $125/wheel, that is in TRP Hylex territory, which is a full hydraulic brake. Throw in another $200 and you have whatever shifter setup you want through gevenalle, and that is a pretty reasonable price for a whole shift/brake solution. Just add a RD/FD and drivetrain, and you are in business.


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## joshhan (Apr 1, 2011)

I have bought 2 sets (one for the commuter). I wait until the somafab.com has their 20% sales. So $200 - $40 for $160 shipped. I like them a lot, they brought back 1 finger braking and I don't need to upgrade my shifters.

And as other posters have noted, they do come with the really nice metal, braided housing, rotors and mounting hardware.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

joshhan said:


> I have bought 2 sets (one for the commuter). I wait until the somafab.com has their 20% sales. So $200 - $40 for $160 shipped. I like them a lot, they brought back 1 finger braking and I don't need to upgrade my shifters.
> 
> And as other posters have noted, they do come with the really nice metal, braided housing, rotors and mounting hardware.


What is your opinion of the rotors? Also, what pads do those brakes require - is it a standard style pad, or would I need to order from SOMA/IRD/Yokozuna every time I needed pads?


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## joshhan (Apr 1, 2011)

SpeedyStein said:


> What is your opinion of the rotors? Also, what pads do those brakes require - is it a standard style pad, or would I need to order from SOMA/IRD/Yokozuna every time I needed pads?


Rotors are fine, the pads are the same shape as the Shimano MTB pads so you have a variety of choices there.

They are coming out with a 4 piston version soon from what I've read!


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## ghebinkim (Nov 8, 2011)

First bought my 2.0 frame set back in 2016. Had it set up on 29" wheels as a drop bar single speed, flat bar single speed, with fenders, without fenders... Finally took the plunge and set up the bike as a 1x11 on 650b wheels. Apex 1 HydroR groupset, Stan's Crest Mk3 wheels, and WTB Horizon tires. Considering snagging a thru-axle front fork and rear sliders, but haven't really felt the need yet.

























On a side note, anybody else running Soma Junebug dirt drops? For some reason both my TRP Hylex and SRAM Apex levers have trouble achieving proper clamp load on these bars. The screw on the ring clamp bottoms out before the ring clamp has fully contacted the bars, meaning I can't tighten the screw down any further. I don't have this issue on another set Syntace road bars, so it's definitely the Junebug bar, not the brake levers. I can get around this issue by wrapping the bar a couple times with electrical tape, but this doesn't seem like something I should have to do.


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Warentee completed.. Don't like the gloss black like I did the orange. Left the steerer full length for now









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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

Yeah, the orange just had something special. I'm okay with the black. But the orange was better.

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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Yeah I loved the orange. When I started the warentee process. Somone on the thread said the frame is e coated. I don't notice that, and I don't see that in the specs on the web site. Do I need to use some frame /rust protection? Or is it e coated? 

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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

It's definitely e coated and it's very noticeable. No reason to avoid adding a second layer of corrosion resistance.

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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

Agwan said:


> It's definitely e coated and it's very noticeable. No reason to avoid adding a second layer of corrosion resistance.
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk


Thank you

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## ckinge (Nov 13, 2016)

*Suggestions for 1x setup for Wolverine*

I just ordered a 56cm Wolverine and want to go with a 1x setup. My local shop suggested going with SRAM Rival. Are there alternative 1x setups people would suggest?

Thanks,

Chad


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## joshhan (Apr 1, 2011)

ckinge said:


> I just ordered a 56cm Wolverine and want to go with a 1x setup. My local shop suggested going with SRAM Rival. Are there alternative 1x setups people would suggest?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Chad


This is going to be an unpopular opinion but I hated 1x for gravel/trail riding on the Wolverine. I went 2x and love it. Lost too much on the highest and lowest gears when I ran a 38t chainring. I'm now on a compact crank (50/34) with a 11-36 10 speed cassette and love it.

SRAM Rival levers 
10 speed X9 rear derailleur (type 2 clutched!)
Rival front derailleur

Otherwise, if you use SRAM levers, you can mix mountain and road 10 speed groups which is awesome.


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I run 50-34x11-42 on one of my bikes and love it. I'll ultimately run 42x11-50 on my bikepacker. But that's for simplicity, not for being ideal.

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## ckinge (Nov 13, 2016)

Hi,

Could you please share with me your entire 1x setup?


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

It will be a 105 5800 crank with a wolf tooth 42t narrow wide chainring. XT-M8000-SGS rear derailleur, M8000 shifter, Sunrace CSMX8 11-50 conversion cassette.

If I ever take it back to Drop bar, it will be with 105 R7000 hydro mechanical levers and a Wolftooth Tanpan adapter.

The 2x set up is using dura ace hydromechanical levers with a Tanpan on an XT rear derailleur. Works flawless.

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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Nothing really new here guys but still riding and loving my Wolvie! I checked back in after a long break and thought I would share some recent gravel grind pics. I was on a ride a few weeks ago and my Cazaderos, which had over half tread left, broke a belt in the front tire. It developed a buldge right in the center of the tread. I finished the ride but it progressed badly and barely made it back. The third pic shows my Wolvie currently sporting 43mm Gravel kings. I have yet to get out for a ride with these yet. They look sharp!


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

joshhan said:


> This is going to be an unpopular opinion but I hated 1x for gravel/trail riding on the Wolverine. I went 2x and love it. Lost too much on the highest and lowest gears when I ran a 38t chainring. I'm now on a compact crank (50/34) with a 11-36 10 speed cassette and love it.
> 
> SRAM Rival levers
> 10 speed X9 rear derailleur (type 2 clutched!)
> ...


Ha, I'm running that same gearing combo on one of my bikes. 5700 105 and 9 speed XT RD, and compact crank with 11-36 10 speed cassette. Makes for a great everything bike setup - always have a gear that works for whatever I am doing, even if I am carrying stupid amounts of stuff up a steep hill.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

*Wolverine drive train setup*

Hey guys, posting because I had a few requests in PM about my drive train setup. Very happy with this drive train setup - reliable, easy to use, shifts quickly, and easy to setup. Hope this helps with your builds!

Shimano M8000 XT RD, XT 11-42 cassette 







Ultegra crankset with Wolftooth 40t elliptical ring







Microshift bar end shifter, 11 speed DynaSys compatible. BS-M11 is the part number - works perfectly with Shimano 11 speed MTB RD. Comes in pair with friction front too, if needed.


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## doismellbacon (Sep 20, 2007)

Very slick, SpeedyStein!


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

doismellbacon said:


> Very slick, SpeedyStein!


Thank you!


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## SanJuanSam (Nov 11, 2018)

Hey all. I've been stalking this thread for a while. I built up my Wolverine last fall. Totally loving the bike. Eventually I'll post the build spec but for now here's some photos.


















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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

SanJuanSam said:


> Hey all. I've been stalking this thread for a while. I built up my Wolverine last fall. Totally loving the bike. Eventually I'll post the build spec but for now here's some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Right on, looks like you have built it up a few different ways so far. That's what I like about mine - it is super flexible to build up for whatever I want to do/ride. Which frame bag is the camo one? I really like the shape of that - looks like bottles actually fit in the cages with that one. I have the Blackburn Outpost bag and don't really like it much for this frame - I can't fit the bag and bottles at the same time.


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## SanJuanSam (Nov 11, 2018)

SpeedyStein said:


> Right on, looks like you have built it up a few different ways so far. That's what I like about mine - it is super flexible to build up for whatever I want to do/ride. Which frame bag is the camo one? I really like the shape of that - looks like bottles actually fit in the cages with that one. I have the Blackburn Outpost bag and don't really like it much for this frame - I can't fit the bag and bottles at the same time.


So the camo frame bag in the second photo is a Jandd. The other frame bag that is green/camo is from Oveja Negra. I like the bag from Oveja a bit more although requires the use of smaller bottles.

In a short amount of time my wolverine has seen some different set ups. Mostly just wheel/tire changes. The move from a mountain triple to a white industries vbc double was huge. It allows running the tire as far forward as possible with clearance for the front derailleur. The 2.2 continentals had some interface with the front derailleur even slammed back in the dropouts. I heard about the frame failures right after installing those so I pulled em off and went to rock n roads which are great tires on this bike.

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## boostin (Apr 21, 2008)

This is my Wolverine and my dog, they are both pretty fun to hang out with.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

SanJuanSam said:


> So the camo frame bag in the second photo is a Jandd. The other frame bag that is green/camo is from Oveja Negra. I like the bag from Oveja a bit more although requires the use of smaller bottles.
> 
> In a short amount of time my wolverine has seen some different set ups. Mostly just wheel/tire changes. The move from a mountain triple to a white industries vbc double was huge. It allows running the tire as far forward as possible with clearance for the front derailleur. The 2.2 continentals had some interface with the front derailleur even slammed back in the dropouts. I heard about the frame failures right after installing those so I pulled em off and went to rock n roads which are great tires on this bike.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Right on, Thanks for the info on the bags.

Yeah, I ran 2.25 Nine Lines on mine for a little while, and didn't have FD problems because 1x, but I didn't really care for how the bike handled with that large of a tire. I switched to the WTB Resolutes and couldn't be happier - they are pretty similar in size/knob characteristics to the R&Rs.

Thanks for sharing!


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## SanJuanSam (Nov 11, 2018)

SpeedyStein said:


> Right on, Thanks for the info on the bags.
> 
> Yeah, I ran 2.25 Nine Lines on mine for a little while, and didn't have FD problems because 1x, but I didn't really care for how the bike handled with that large of a tire. I switched to the WTB Resolutes and couldn't be happier - they are pretty similar in size/knob characteristics to the R&Rs.
> 
> Thanks for sharing!


Recently I switched to a set of NOS WTB Mutano Raptors in 44. They are a great tire for this bike. Not too bad on pavement and perfect in the snowy conditions we have right now. This bike is making me become a tire/wheel set collector.

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## SanJuanSam (Nov 11, 2018)

boostin said:


> View attachment 1232328
> 
> 
> This is my Wolverine and my dog, they are both pretty fun to hang out with.


I'm digging the purple (I think) bar tape. What bars are those? Almost look like on-one midge.

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## boostin (Apr 21, 2008)

SanJuanSam said:


> I'm digging the purple (I think) bar tape. What bars are those? Almost look like on-one midge.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My friend who built it gave me purple housing so I bought a purple stem and purple tape for it. I think it looks pretty good! The bars are Salsa woodchipper 2's I am 95% positive.


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## sdwhitey (Apr 3, 2010)

I have a wolverine frame that I am building up using parts bin components. I will need to make one purchase related to the wheels. I have an old DT Swiss X1600 rear wheel with with a 142x12 hub. I am debating whether to pay $40 for DT end caps to convert the hub to 135 QR or spending $65 for paragon sliders and hardware to convert the frame to 142x12. Thoughts? Any strong preferences on these two options?

A related question. Paragon lists and sells the shimano AX-MT700 thru axle as being compatitble with their dropouts. I have an old SM-AX75 thru axle that I hope is compatible. Anybody know if it will work? I asked Paragon customer service and they refused to comment on its compatibility.

Thanks!


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I would really stick with DT Swiss for paragon drop outs. I know there are others that work. But DT is worth it.

I strongly prefer the through axle rear end on my Wolverines. Having run both axle types.

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## dingbat (Jan 28, 2019)

I’ve seen pics of 54-559 (compass rat trap pass) fitted to a Soma Wolverine. I’m wondering if it’s likely that a Surly ExtraTerrestrial (63-559) would fit the rear chainstay gap? Tire radius is equal to many of the 650b I see folks use, but perhaps the width is getting too large?

I guess if there is 69mm gap it *could* work. Reason being I have a set of 26” wheels from my old troll. Perhaps someone has measured the gap?


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## dingbat (Jan 28, 2019)

Wondering if anyone has measured gap between chainstays? I’ve seen a compass rat trap pass (54-559) fitted to a Soma wolverine which had me thinking Surly extraterrestrial (63-559) *might* fit. The radius of this 26” wheel tire is equal to some of the 650b I’ve seen fitted, but Perhaps width makes it no-go ...


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

dingbat said:


> I've seen pics of 54-559 (compass rat trap pass) fitted to a Soma Wolverine. I'm wondering if it's likely that a Surly ExtraTerrestrial (63-559) would fit the rear chainstay gap? Tire radius is equal to many of the 650b I see folks use, but perhaps the width is getting too large?
> 
> I guess if there is 69mm gap it *could* work. Reason being I have a set of 26" wheels from my old troll. Perhaps someone has measured the gap?


I had a 29x2.1" tire in the back on a wide rim, no rubbing. I'd be more concerned about BB height with 26" wheels.


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## dingbat (Jan 28, 2019)

The BB looked quite low with the compass tires, but 2.5” wide Surly ETs have the same radius as a 700x32c (the tire Soma bases wolverine geo figures on). I think the main issue is in order to have that radius it’s getting super wide. I’m on the frontier here, but it would be super rad to use my existing 26” wheels for logging roads and run 650b x 47 for commutes / pavement!


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## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

FYI, I got a notice that Soma is having a sale on Wolverines through their web store, ends today. $300-$400 for the frame, depending on the version. And, shipping is a flat $20 to CONUS.


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## hexron (Feb 23, 2017)

Hey all thanks for all the info here. Starting to spec out a 1x11 Wolverine build for a clyde. My idea is to go budget and then possibly upgrade down the road. Looking to do 60% gravel/40% paved with some commuting sprinkled in. Leaning toward the Lugged QR fork. Questions:

1. What is the ideal rim width for running 38-50 tires? I've got my heart set on some Hydras but I also found a great deal on an Archetype wheelset for $200. Again, the wheels are something I feel like I can go cheap on right now and upgrade later. Although it looks like if I build/buy something with a Sram 900 hub - I can have more options for QR and TA? 

2. Should I consider 27.5/MTB wheelset?

3. This will be my first Sram build and first disc build. Do I need a RD with a clutch if running 10-42? What RD should I be looking at?

Thanks should be a fun project.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

hexron said:


> Hey all thanks for all the info here. Starting to spec out a 1x11 Wolverine build for a clyde. My idea is to go budget and then possibly upgrade down the road. Looking to do 60% gravel/40% paved with some commuting sprinkled in. Leaning toward the Lugged QR fork. Questions:
> 
> 1. What is the ideal rim width for running 38-50 tires? I've got my heart set on some Hydras but I also found a great deal on an Archetype wheelset for $200. Again, the wheels are something I feel like I can go cheap on right now and upgrade later. Although it looks like if I build/buy something with a Sram 900 hub - I can have more options for QR and TA?
> 
> ...


Congrats on choosing a Wolverine! I've had mine for about 3 years now, and love it more every ride. It's been built in many different ways, and always proves a fun and comfortable ride.

For wheels - 19-23mm internal width should work well for 38-50mm tires. Easy to find old stock 29er XC wheels, many with convertible hubs, in this width range, often very affordable.

If you are looking at the lugged fork - it is flexy, but looks great, rides comfortably, and can fit a 180mm rotor. Some people like this, some don't - read this whole thread for details. I believe the lugged fork has more tire clearance, but 50s should fit fine in the TA fork too. Keep this in mind when choosing your wheelset - that's where convertible hubs are a great idea. That was by far my biggest mistake when building up my bike - I got regular QR hubs, and now want the TA fork and accompanying wheelset.

I think a 650b wheelset would be fun, but keep in mind that the bottom bracket will be pretty low, even with 2.1 or 2.2 tires. Not necessarily a deal breaker, and a lot of people run 650b with lots of happy miles, but it would be a potentially limiting factor when riding off-road.

When going 1x11 or 1x10, a clutch RD is definitely going to help keep your chain on, but isn't entirely necessary if you use a narrow wide chainring and an RD with a stiff tension spring. I ran 1x10 on my cross bike for a long time with a RaceFace ring and Deore 9spd MTB RD, and never dropped a chain once. Other factors play in too - chainstay length, chainline, chain and ring health, terrain you are riding, etc, and everyone's bike setup will be a little different, so it definitely isn't a sure thing for all situations. I can't speak to SRAM stuff, I've always ridden Shimano RDs and never had a problem with modern stuff.

Have fun and post pics as you go!


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

I got some Bontrager Duster Elites for a penny and a song when I worked for Trek, they are really out dated for mountain bike wheels. but with a roughly 20mm inner width they've made excellent gravel wheels. I usually run 42 to 50c tires, I have both forks. and I can confirm 50c fits in both. But 50c won't fit with a fender in the TA fork.

I prefer my 700c wheels. But I really want to get some 650b wheels as well. 

I do XT M8000-SGS derailleurs on both of my gravel bikes. I use a tan-pan to adapt them to drop bars. And I do this because my 1x gravel bike is 11-50 in the cassette and the SGS has no issues clearing that.

My 2x Gravel bike is 11-42x50-34. I run the SGS there to accommodate chain growth when shifting between big and small rings up front.

Long term, a clutch is a great idea. almost all MTB rear derailleurs will have a clutch, as will dedicated 1x rear derailleurs from Sram.


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## nitrosont (Oct 23, 2018)

*new V3 frame*

Hello,

I just got my Wolverine V3 from my LBS. Since I don't have the tool I'll let him mount the BB and the headset (with facing the frame and cutting the threads). But before that I'd like to coat the inside of the frame with some rust prevention. While thinking about this, I stumbled over some questions which I'd like to raise here:

- regroove all threads which aren't already regrooved
===> what happens to any material (paint, metal, etc.) that might get into the tube? How do I get it out there?
- There are two mounts on the down tube. Both of them have a fairly big "spacer" on them which is coated with paint (it seems). I attached a picture so you can see, what I mean.
===> I'm wondering how I dismount theses spacers. I have the fear, that if I twist them (to get them off), the paint might chip of the tube itself.

Sorry, if my English is not perfect, I'm from Germany.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

nitrosont said:


> Hello,
> 
> I just got my Wolverine V3 from my LBS. Since I don't have the tool I'll let him mount the BB and the headset (with facing the frame and cutting the threads). But before that I'd like to coat the inside of the frame with some rust prevention. While thinking about this, I stumbled over some questions which I'd like to raise here:
> 
> ...


Right on, welcome to the Wolverine club! You will likely find this to be a very comfortable and versatile bike, as pretty much anyone who has ever ridden one will tell you - you made a great choice!

For rust coating - I thought I remember seeing somewhere that SOMA coats the V3 frames already, but I can't find that on their site, so they might not. Would be a good idea to follow up with them. That said, a little extra won't hurt. Do it before the LBS faces/chases your mating surfaces (BB, headtube, etc), that way if any of your coating gets in there, it isn't interfering with installation of parts.

For "regrooving threads" do you mean bottle cage bosses, rack/fender mounts, those sort of threads? I usually just run the correct size bolt through them, without attaching anything initially, just to get the threads cleared of any paint or whatnot. There was a fair bit of paint in the threads of most of the attachment points on my bike when I first got it. If you are really obsessive about it, you can get an M5 tap and chase the threads, but that is probably overkill. Remember, the bike shop is going to do the bottom bracket, which is about the only threaded attachment point that can really ruin your day if something goes wrong - the others can create annoyances, but there are fixes for those.

Those "spacers" on your downtube are just covers over your shifter bosses. If you are using downtube shifters, they mount there. If you are using any sort of handlebar shifter, there is a little cable stopper that mounts there. The covers are just on there to keep it from getting paint on the bosses, and when the paint dried it glued the covers on. I think I just rocked mine back and forth a couple times and they came off without taking any paint with them. You may or may not have the same luck, so it might be a good idea to take a razor and score the paint around the seam just to be safe - your choice.

Again, welcome to the club, and post up more pics as you progress on your build!


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## nitrosont (Oct 23, 2018)

@ SpeedyStein:
Many many thanks for the warm welcome!
I did quite some research before ordering this frame – I really hope that I get a versatile bike at the end. But since you stated it, I’m even more confident.

Thanks for the feedback concerning the downtube shifter mounts. At the end, the caps came loose pretty easy. Just a bit of flexing did the job.
Regarding the threads I realized, that only the threads of the rack mounts need to be regrooved (except for the BB thread – but my bike shop will take care of this). But since mounting racks will take some time, I don’t need to worry about theses right now.

Regarding the rust prevention: During the weekend I started with a first round. I dumped around one can of Fluid Film with the help of a filling probe into the frame. But I have the feeling, that the probe didn’t do a good job in covering the film evenly. So I guess I will repeat this at least one more time.

Again: Thanks for the feedback!


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

nitrosont said:


> @ SpeedyStein:
> Many many thanks for the warm welcome!
> I did quite some research before ordering this frame - I really hope that I get a versatile bike at the end. But since you stated it, I'm even more confident.
> 
> ...


No worries, glad I could help out. What components are you considering for your build? This bike lends itself pretty well to a myriad of different builds, and I think it is fun to see how other people build their bike up for where/how they ride. Have fun with it, and post pics as you go!


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## nitrosont (Oct 23, 2018)

SpeedyStein said:


> No worries, glad I could help out. What components are you considering for your build? This bike lends itself pretty well to a myriad of different builds, and I think it is fun to see how other people build their bike up for where/how they ride. Have fun with it, and post pics as you go!


Since I aim for low maintenance I went for a Alfine hub gear shifting. I already finished the wheels with a Shutter Precision dynamo in the front. For rims I went with "The Hydra" from "H Plus Son" in 700C. Everything else is unclear at the moment.

Currently I'm struggeling with the drivetrain. Since I'm tall (6'5'') I'd like to use a long crankset - 180mm / ~7,1''. For the BB I'll use a suitable Hollowtech II BB. 180mm cranks are pretty rare. I found that the Shimano XT FC-M8000 might work. But there are some questions left:


Does every chainring fit as long as its holes fit to the cranks?
The chainline of the cranks is 50,4mm. The one on the Alfine hub can be changed since the gear wheel is dished. But I'm not sure, if I'll manage a straight chainline with this combination.
And the chain: Should I use a chain optimized fot the chainring or for the gear wheel of the Alfine hub? Does it even matter? Or can I just use any chain?


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## somaamos (Mar 4, 2019)

Here is my Soma a week ago but it transformes a lot at the moment. This was my first test drive after the rebuild. Lets say thats my race / sunshine setup 
Yesterday I added lights and a rear rack from my old build and I want to change tires and add Fenders soon and ride it as Randoneur & Commuter for a while.







It used to be build with Alfine 11 & Riser for 2,5 years now. After some longer tours and daily use in the city I decided to change it to dropbar. Dropbar and Alfine does not really work, if you don't want bar end shifters. If you have a Di2 its another story. In my opinion the frame is not really made to be built with geared hubs, it starts with the handlebar and end with the cables. When you ride it you don't really feel it but there are better frames then the wolverine for a clean geared hub setup. But I know where you are comming from and I decided to do it 2,5 years ago.
The Alfine is made for 8 speed chains. Maybe you can find a used Shimano xt 8 speed crank. It will give you the flexibility you need and you can add chainguards. I am german too by the way .


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## nitrosont (Oct 23, 2018)

Nice picture, the bike looks great!
I think I'll use a bullhorn bar with the JTek bar end shifter, but I haven't finally deceided yet.
Seeing your frame, I assume you're also pretty tall? Which cranks did you use with the Alfine? My main concern with the current XT cranks (FC-M8000) is that I don't know, if I can get the chainline in line with the gear of the rear hub. Do you suggest to get a 3x crank and only use the middle chainring?
Do you mean, that any chain for 8 speed works? For example a CN-HG71 (HyperGlide) should work with the Alfine?


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

nitrosont said:


> Nice picture, the bike looks great!
> I think I'll use a bullhorn bar with the JTek bar end shifter, but I haven't finally deceided yet.
> Seeing your frame, I assume you're also pretty tall? Which cranks did you use with the Alfine? My main concern with the current XT cranks (FC-M8000) is that I don't know, if I can get the chainline in line with the gear of the rear hub. Do you suggest to get a 3x crank and only use the middle chainring?
> Do you mean, that any chain for 8 speed works? For example a CN-HG71 (HyperGlide) should work with the Alfine?


Sounds like you have a good start! Alfine hubs are pretty cool - I've never run one, but have thought about it a lot.

You should be able to get the chainline on an M8000 XT crank close enough to make the Alfine work - keep in mind though that there aren't very many chainring size options for those cranks, since the 4 bolt pattern isn't an industry standard pattern. You could always adjust gearing with different cogs for the Alfine though, so might not be an issue for you. Any 1x ring should work fine with an 8 speed chain - chain "speed" matters most on the rear on a cassette, where the chain has to move a very specific distance to shift properly without rubbing the other gears.

An older XT crank (700 series) will be a lot more versatile, since older models use standard mounting chainrings, and many will be triples, which gives you even more flexibility with chainline and ring size. Not to mention, you will probably be able to single speed specific chainrings for an older XT crankset, vice using a 1x specific one for the newer model.

Good luck!


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Just scoped out the new V4 Type A on Soma's web store... looks like a pretty legit upgrade.

https://store.somafab.com/sowoadtofrv41.html

Only color matched fork is the unicrown 15mm thru-axle, ships with the 12mm thru axle sliders, 44mm headtube for tapered fork compatibility, no belt drive split in the seat stay, and no downtube shifter bosses. No mention on any geo changes yet, and it isn't even on their main website or in the blog. Maybe they added it too soon to the store?

They also have the Type B, which looks like pretty much the V3 frame, but with in a new green color, both steel forks available in color match.

https://store.somafab.com/sowoadtofrv4.html

I would love build up the Type A, but can't spend $2k+ on a bike build right now.


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## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

I was excited to read about the B type's "increased stack", but when I checked in my 62cm size, it was... 1mm. Wow.


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## sdwhitey (Apr 3, 2010)

*Soma Wolverine Hybrid*








Just built up a flat bar wolverine from my old frameset (size 58) with a parts bin build. I still need to add a front derailleur. I plan to use it as my primary commuter for the summer. I did order some Paragon sliders to upgrade the rear end to a 142mm thru axle setup. The Paragon sliders work. But...the way the are machined I can't use the full range of motion of their sliding feature. I figured I'd document that here. Paragon part numbers are DR4137 and DR4027.

For anyone on the fence about a Wolverine I would definitely steer you towards Black Mountain Cycles. I own his Road+. At $695 for a frameset, the Road+ and MCD are an incredible value. If you don't absolutely need the Wolverine's versatility features (sliding dropouts and/or belt drive) then, in my opinion, the Soma doesn't have much to offer compared to the BMC.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

sdwhitey said:


> View attachment 1248157
> 
> Just built up a flat bar wolverine from my old frameset (size 58) with a parts bin build. I still need to add a front derailleur. I plan to use it as my primary commuter for the summer. I did order some Paragon sliders to upgrade the rear end to a 142mm thru axle setup. The Paragon sliders work. But...the way the are machined I can't use the full range of motion of their sliding feature. I figured I'd document that here. Paragon part numbers are DR4137 and DR4027.
> 
> For anyone on the fence about a Wolverine I would definitely steer you towards Black Mountain Cycles. I own his Road+. At $695 for a frameset, the Road+ and MCD are an incredible value. If you don't absolutely need the Wolverine's versatility features (sliding dropouts and/or belt drive) then, in my opinion, the Soma doesn't have much to offer compared to the BMC.


Haha, I built mine up with flat bars a couple months ago too!

I also like the BMC MCD, but it wasn't around when I got my Wolverine - they didn't have any disc brake bikes at all. Not that I have buyers remorse, but more options would have been nice 3-4 years ago.

With the Paragon sliders, which direction do they limit you? All the way forward, all the way back, or both? I have really been on the fence about upgrading the Wolverine to thru axles since I built it - but I would need to buy wheels, axles, fork, and the sliders - might as well just build/buy a new bike at that point.

I've also been thinking about going deep end with the Wolverine and taking it to a frame builder to remove the sliders and mount fixed position thru axle dropouts to it. Would be expensive, but would make for a clean thru axle conversion. The Wolverine fits me well and rides like a dream, so it would almost be worth it.


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## beerdles (Aug 22, 2016)

I'd like to pick up the new 4.0 Type A with the thru axles but they're currently out of the color matched steel forks. I've been having a hell of a time finding a replacement. Anyone else have any better luck than me? The fact that it's tapered, steel, thru axle and comes with mounts makes it a bit of a unicorn. Maybe Soma will restock these forks soon?


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## Crash_FLMB (Jan 21, 2004)

I'm looking at the Wolvie as a replacement for my current gravel bike which is too long. I like what I see on this thread and I think the Wolvie is my top choice. My question is this, I don't see any carbon forks being run on this frame. Is there a reason for that? I'll be using this for light gravel and road riding. I'm thinking this Soma fork would be a great option. I'm going to purchase a frame/fork combo and transfer my parts over.

Am I dumb for thinking this?
https://www.modernbike.com/soma-carbon-gravel-fork-700c-1-1-8

Thanks for any help!


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## life behind bars (May 24, 2014)

Crash_FLMB said:


> I'm looking at the Wolvie as a replacement for my current gravel bike which is too long. I like what I see on this thread and I think the Wolvie is my top choice. My question is this, I don't see any carbon forks being run on this frame. Is there a reason for that? I'll be using this for light gravel and road riding. I'm thinking this Soma fork would be a great option. I'm going to purchase a frame/fork combo and transfer my parts over.
> 
> Am I dumb for thinking this?
> https://www.modernbike.com/soma-carbon-gravel-fork-700c-1-1-8
> ...


That is the default choice for a carbon fork for the Wolverine, you'd be good to go with it.


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## Crash_FLMB (Jan 21, 2004)

life behind bars said:


> That is the default choice for a carbon fork for the Wolverine, you'd be good to go with it.


Thanks for the help. I went with the carbon for now but will also pick up the steel fork at some point. Next weekend will be spent on building her up. 

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## Crash_FLMB (Jan 21, 2004)

I had some issues transferring all the parts from my Jabber but after a few rides this weekend, she's close to being dialed in. Thanks for those who helped. So far so good. The carbon fork was a nice upgrade from the old Surly steel monster I was running. The ride is much another and I'm really happy so far.

Side note, anyone running downtube shifters? I'm thinking of adding them but I have no idea what to look for or the difference between gear shifters and friction shifters. I'm currently running an old XT rear derailleur and planning to add a front XT derailleur once I get the shifter.









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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Crash_FLMB said:


> I had some issues transferring all the parts from my Jabber but after a few rides this weekend, she's close to being dialed in. Thanks for those who helped. So far so good. The carbon fork was a nice upgrade from the old Surly steel monster I was running. The ride is much another and I'm really happy so far.
> 
> Side note, anyone running downtube shifters? I'm thinking of adding them but I have no idea what to look for or the difference between gear shifters and friction shifters. I'm currently running an old XT rear derailleur and planning to add a front XT derailleur once I get the shifter.
> 
> ...


Not sure what you mean when you say not sure what the difference is? Friction shifters will work with any derailleur. On my Wolvie I have a 1x andmon my mom drive side downtube boss I have a Guinness bottle cap. It's pretty slick


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## Crash_FLMB (Jan 21, 2004)

Guinness cap, now that's something to see. 

I've never used or even looked at friction shifters so I'm pretty dumb about them. It sounds like I can pick up any friction shifters and be good to go. Hmmm, if so then I see that in the very near future.

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## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

I picked up a 62cm V3 frame when Soma had them 20% off to build up as my around town/all rounder bike:


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Crash_FLMB said:


> Guinness cap, now that's something to see.
> 
> I've never used or even looked at friction shifters so I'm pretty dumb about them. It sounds like I can pick up any friction shifters and be good to go. Hmmm, if so then I see that in the very near future.
> 
> Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk


Yes friction shifters can be used with any speed and any derailleur


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## Crash_FLMB (Jan 21, 2004)

That's awesome! I might have to steal that truck from you. 

Fantastic! I'll be scavenging around for some friction shifter then. Thanks for the info.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

So I read most of this thread and looking for a bit of advice. I just purchased from my local CL a Wolverine 2.0 frame and fork set for under $275. As far as I can tell it's in good shape just needs some paint and rear dropout screws and lug nut(which I am sure lowes or home depot carry for like $1-2 for the set). 


Is there anything I should know or be on the lookout for? The previous owner told me as long I don't ride its slid back fully and not a heavy set person cracking won't be an issue. He also said cracking was more of an issue on 56cm an above no 52cm(is this correct?). Out of curiosity is it possible to take the frame to a welder to make it close to the 2.1 model? 


I wanted to go 650b, but a LBS around here had a good deal on a set of used 700c(23 wide) WTB competitive mountain bike wheels with the 160mm disc included, which I plan to run tubed with Schwalbe or Michelin tires in a 42-45 size range. I wasn't able to find a precise answer but what is the max tire I can run with 700c and with 650b without a fender/mudguard? I also bought a pair of used TRP(only $35) mechanical brakes and Cane Creek headset(new) from that LBS. I am excited to get this build. I plan to swap out the drive-train from my current gravel bike, which has a 2x10 Sram setup and have a local bike builder install the headset and brakes(not skilled in this yet nor have the tools to install a headset). I may also use the CF handlebars as I am told it offers better damping than metal or aluminum, but I also like how the Salsa cowchippers look too. I am excited cause this should be a better size, safe, and more comfortable than my current gravel bike(which has an ally frame, cf fork, and v brakes). 


Thank you!


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## Biggus Duckus (Apr 5, 2016)

Funoutside said:


> So I read most of this thread and looking for a bit of advice. I just purchased from my local CL a Wolverine 2.0 frame and fork set for under $275. As far as I can tell it's in good shape just needs some paint and rear dropout screws and lug nut(which I am sure lowes or home depot carry for like $1-2 for the set).
> 
> Is there anything I should know or be on the lookout for? The previous owner told me as long I don't ride its slid back fully and not a heavy set person cracking won't be an issue. He also said cracking was more of an issue on 56cm an above no 52cm(is this correct?). Out of curiosity is it possible to take the frame to a welder to make it close to the 2.1 model?
> 
> ...


The cracking seemed to be overblown, but the owner is probably right that small frames with the wheel not all the way back are fine.

With 700c you can have a maximum of 2.1" tires or so. Not sure with fenders what you can have. With 650b you can fit 47mm tires with fenders. Also 2.1" without fenders.

You got a great bike!


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Wait so without fender 650b and 700c one can fit the same width of tires? I thought 650b meant I can fit a bit of a wider tire than 700c? Soma's site says 45 with fenders on 700c. That changes things if I can go 2.1 with 700c as I will probably go close to 50mm wide then and ride between tucked and middle.

Any suggestions on some quality QR skewers as that's how my tires and frame is setup(unless I swap the rear drops for thru and get the thru axle fork, which increase the build cost)? Thanks


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## 749800 (Jul 14, 2013)

Funoutside said:


> Any suggestions on some quality QR skewers as that's how my tires and frame is setup(unless I swap the rear drops for thru and get the thru axle fork, which increase the build cost)? Thanks


I'm using Dura Ace quick release skewers on my 100/135 steel-frame with carbon CX Enve gen 1 fork. These are heavy but zero compromise. Ultegra are almost as good. I think XT skewers would be great, too, but I haven't tried them myself. Internal cam skewers are essential for quick-release and disc brakes. (I had Salsa external cam skewers that looked nice, but just weren't up for the job. My front wheel always had to be re-centered in the fork. I've never had that problem with Dura Ace skewers.)

Frankly, if you have the ability to convert your hubs to thru-axle, you should do it, and get something like the Spork 1.2 or 2.0 with a Wolverine 4 type A. (The Spork offers attachment points that Enve lacks.)


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Spork is out of budget for me, but what's this about the V.4 type A? Are you suggesting getting the V.4 type rear dropouts? 

I will take a look at XT and Dura-Ace, thank you.


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## 749800 (Jul 14, 2013)

Good, high-quality internal-cam quick-releases should be fine. A thru-axle front fork would probably be a bit better. A thru-axle rear probably is not nearly as important.

(If you were starting from scratch, and budget allowed, the V. 4 type A frame would offer that advantage, and the ability to put on a 1.5" taper fork, most of which are now thru-axle. If you were going to spend the money on a pricey fork, I would get a Spork rather than an Enve CX, because it has the attachment points. Neither would fit the v. 2, if I understand correctly.)

If you get a disc-brake compatible quick-release fork, make sure to get one where the dropouts face forward, rather than back, so the braking force is less likely to dislodge the wheel.










vs










Source: https://cyclingtips.com/2015/10/road...axels-but-why/


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I already have a frame and fork, v2 to be exact so different frame and fork are a bit out of budget for me. But, I will keep that in mind when it comes to discs, thank you.


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## 749800 (Jul 14, 2013)

Funoutside said:


> I already have a frame and fork, v2 to be exact so different frame and fork are a bit out of budget for me. But, I will keep that in mind when it comes to discs, thank you.


I think I may have mis-understood what you were asking, but I went through this on my bike, so I guess I was primed.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Still useful to know, thank you for the information.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Went to a LBS and they had the budget Shimano skewers for $18 for the set, but I was fortunate they had one last set of DTSwiss, which I got for $30ish.

Out of curiosity is anyone running suspension fork, lauf, fox, or any that fits and works? How do you like it? Also, anyone here know if any of the Vittoria 29x2.1 XC tires will fit/work or are they a bit on the large size?


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

double post please delete.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Will CST Jack Rabbit 29x2.1 fit? Thinking about ordering some as price is very tempting.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Anyone here riding with the Condor bars, either v1 or v2? How do you like it?


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## Crash_FLMB (Jan 21, 2004)

No I haven't tried the Condors. I started with the Gators and they are fantastic for stability going downhill but they pushed me out too far. I just switched to the Salsa Cowchippers and while not quite as stable going downhill, they are really nice so far. I only have a few hours on them so time will tell but I think I'll really like them. I'm not as stretched out which makes the bike more comfortable for me.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Does the cowchipper bring you down more vs the Gators? I currently not a fan of how low I am when going downhill, not a comfortable position. Was thinking Jones bar, but was also suggested I check out the Condor bars and honestly it does look interesting. Handling is a concern with going the Jones, Moloko, or VO Crazy Bar route, and why I am seeing if anyone here has one of the Condor bar variants on their Wolverine.


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## Crash_FLMB (Jan 21, 2004)

Funoutside said:


> Does the cowchipper bring you down more vs the Gators? I currently not a fan of how low I am when going downhill, not a comfortable position. Was thinking Jones bar, but was also suggested I check out the Condor bars and honestly it does look interesting. Handling is a concern with going the Jones, Moloko, or VO Crazy Bar route, and why I am seeing if anyone here has one of the Condor bar variants on their Wolverine.


The Gators have a much deeper drop and farther reach than the Cows. However, when holding the curve position, the Gators are more comfy. Ultimately, I needed something with more flat on top, Gators have very little top flat bar, and not so long in the drops.

Not sure that helps but that's my experience so far. My roadie has completely different bars so what do I know.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

It has been helpful. May also have to check out the Gators now too.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Out of curiosity anyone running a non-Soma steel fork, like an All-City or Surly, on their Wolverine? Or a suspension fork, like the lauf or fox 32 gravel model? How is it?


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Any suggestions on a hex/lock nut? I am still using the regular ones that I got from the hardware store and it's not staying fully tight. I ordered new screws(20) from amazon, but looking to get a stronger nut to match. I didn't see anything good at my local Home Depot or lumber store.


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## doismellbacon (Sep 20, 2007)

Funoutside said:


> Any suggestions on a hex/lock nut? I am still using the regular ones that I got from the hardware store and it's not staying fully tight. I ordered new screws(20) from amazon, but looking to get a stronger nut to match. I didn't see anything good at my local Home Depot or lumber store.


Have you stripped the threads on the nut? If so, you can get higher "class" nuts and bolts so that you can apply more torque without stripping them. The differences in hardware "grades" (SAE) vs "Classes" (metric) can be a little confusing. Here's a link that explains it.... 
https://www.fastenermart.com/understanding-fastener-grades-and-classes.html

Home Depot is generally not the best source for "oddball" bolts, which is what most small metric high strength bike-related bolts would be considered in 'Murica, but you probably have an industrial supply place like American Bolt near you unless you're way out in the sticks.

If it's not an issue of stripping threads, then you can apply more torque, put some blue loctite on the threads, or use two nuts, one torqued down to the dropout like normal, and a second one locked against the first, for some extra holding power.

This is just general mechanical info... I haven't had any issues with the hardware on my Soma loosening up... somebody else may have something to add more specific to this bike that I'm not thinking of, but I think the basic concepts are sound regardless of what kind of machine you're talking about.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

It's not stripped, just got loose. I had a bike shop tighten it up for me(don't have tq-wrench). I will get some loctite to have the shop retighten it. The screws currently on the bike uses a Phillips head to tighten, but this new one is stainless steel and uses an m5 key to tighten. Thank you for the reply.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> It's not stripped, just got loose. I had a bike shop tighten it up for me(don't have tq-wrench). I will get some loctite to have the shop retighten it. The screws currently on the bike uses a Phillips head to tighten, but this new one is stainless steel and uses an m5 key to tighten. Thank you for the reply.


Which bolts are you having trouble with? Most frame/cockpit bolts aren't particularly torque sensitive, unless you are using delicate carbon parts.

I saw you asking about handlebars and tires for this bike above - I've tried a lot! Haha. I have settled on a flat bar build for mine for now, an Easton Monkey bar, I think it's 660mm or so wide, with a 100mm stem. I still have a 44cm Ritchey Evo Max road bar ready to suit up too if the mood suits - the brakes, shifter, and 70mm stem are all still connected so it makes for a pretty quick transition. For me, and my fit preferences, those seem to be about the sweet spot, but I think I have a kinda long torso and shortish legs for my height. I'm 5'11" and ride a 54cm Wolvie, for reference.

For tires, I've run 35mm WTB Cross Boss, 2.25 WTB Nine Lines, 42mm WTB Resolute, 40mm Kenda Happy Medium, and 32mm Continental Grand Race slicks, all in 700c/29er. I think my next tires are going to be something a bit smoother than the Resolute, maybe a file tread of some sort, in around a 700x42mm size.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Having issues with the m5 limit screws for the sliding dropouts. For tires I am running 29x1.95 Kenda karma sport on WTB 21i laserdisc rims but trying out 27.5x2.2 WTB BeeLine on 25 width Alex rim DC4. I got the new screws in the mail and it looks solid vs the current ones that came with the frame(bought it off craigslist). I am hoping this keeps the dropouts from moving and causing the rear tires when a bit loose to hit the frame.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> Having issues with the m5 limit screws for the sliding dropouts. For tires I am running 29x1.95 Kenda karma sport on WTB 21i laserdisc rims but trying out 27.5x2.2 WTB BeeLine on 25 width Alex rim DC4. I got the new screws in the mail and it looks solid vs the current ones that came with the frame(bought it off craigslist). I am hoping this keeps the dropouts from moving and causing the rear tires when a bit loose to hit the frame.


Ah, it took a little work to get my limit screws to stay in place too - I used a small end wrench (8mm I think? - it was a while ago) to tighten the heck out of the nut against the frame. Otherwise they would loosen and fall out, haha. 
I actually rode for a few months without them attached to the bike - they don't do much. The other side of this is the dropouts should be torqued tightly enough to completely restrict their motion. I have no idea what value mine are torqued to, but I am confident it is a fair bit more than specified on the sliding plate. I figure that I don't want it skipping whole riding, so I basically took it as far as I dare, keeping in mind that too far would create a failure. I'm pretty sure the only reason those tiny screws are on for limit stops is for fine adjustment prior to torquing the sliders.

Tires with this bike are a double edge sword - it will fit quite large tires, but tires that big take all the fun out of it. I feel like 700x42mm is about the sweet spot for me - enough volume to soak up chatter but still light and short enough to make the bike light and nimble. I didn't care for the bigger tires because I had to slide the dropouts all the way to fit them, which made the bike feel sluggish and heavy. The larger diameter also threw off the front geometry, further contributing to this problem.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I just moved to new-ish looking 27.5x2.2(got the rim and tire combo for a very good deal on ebay) and really like it a bit better than 29 I was running. The lower bb fits me a bit better, and maybe it's a placebo(or the tires) but I feel it's a bit better in the turns. It doesn't hurt that 27.5 is a bit easier to climb with than 29. I may change the 29 tires from a 1.95 to something in the 38-40 range so I can have a set for rides that are more road-oriented than gravel.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> I just moved to new-ish looking 27.5x2.2(got the rim and tire combo for a very good deal on ebay) and really like it a bit better than 29 I was running. The lower bb fits me a bit better, and maybe it's a placebo(or the tires) but I feel it's a bit better in the turns. It doesn't hurt that 27.5 is a bit easier to climb with than 29. I may change the 29 tires from a 1.95 to something in the 38-40 range so I can have a set for rides that are more road-oriented than gravel.


Right on, glad to hear the 27.5 is working out for you. I haven't tried that wheel size on mine yet, but I've heard many success stories. Where are your dropouts with that tire size? I have seen plenty of pictures of Wolverines with 27.5x2.1 tires and dropouts all the way forward, but I don't think I've seen any with 27.5 tires bigger than that.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I think the max the Wolverine can hold is 2.2 in either size. I am close to the back for the slightly more table handling, but also just in case I want to ride 29 tire setup again or running 29x38


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> I think the max the Wolverine can hold is 2.2 in either size. I am close to the back for the slightly more table handling, but also just in case I want to ride 29 tire setup again or running 29x38


Yeah, when I had the 29x2.25 Nine Lines on, I was definitely all the way at the back - was just curious if a 2.2 27.5 would require the same. Alternatively, with 700x42 I am all the way forward, which really makes the bike much more lively. I didn't think it would have such an impact, but it is pretty profound. One this is for sure though, with those big 2.25 tires tubeless running like 25psi, I absolutely floated over everything! Like riding an orange cloud monster truck, haha


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Yeah I have the Bee Line(27.5 version of the nine) and it rolls nicely. So did my 29er with Kenda Karma Sports, but those felt a bit heavier.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Is there a list of 29x2.2 tires that will work on the Wolverine? A 2.2 labeled tires that is undersized a bit, ie measures at between 2.0-2.1.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> Is there a list of 29x2.2 tires that will work on the Wolverine? A 2.2 labeled tires that is undersized a bit, ie measures at between 2.0-2.1.


I don't think I've seen such a list, but can confirm that 29x2.25 WTB Nineline on i23 rims fits, barely. No room for mud/debris. One sticky trail scrubbed the paint off the insides of my fork, chainstays, and by the chainring, haha.

Check out Instagram for #somawolverine - there are a lot of varied builds out there, and you can get a good idea of what size tires most folks are running. Also, the first couple pages of this thread has quite a bit of tire-fitting discussion, and a few pics of big-tire setups.

As I've mentioned before though - be prepared for your bike to feel like a tank if you put that tire size on. The combined effect on trail in the front and increased chainstay length by running sliders all the way at the back will have a considerable impact on your bike's handling. 700x42mm is my sweet spot on this bike - about the largest size I would run the sliders all the way forward. But, if you are looking for big tires for long distance off road touring, a 29x2.1 wouldn't be a bad deal. I think 2.1 should be a safe size pretty much across the board, unless you are running some super wide rims or super deep tread patter tires, like a mud spike or studded for ice. As always, sometimes finding the right tire is a bit hunt and peck - it took me 4 tries to find what worked for me and my riding style/location, but once I did, it really felt like I unlocked this bike's potential to truly be my "everywhere, anytime" bike.

Good luck!


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Thank you for your reply. I am running i25 rims with 29x1.95 xc tires that aren't fast, but not slow either. but. I just noticed there are more 2.20 options than 2.1 & thought I'd ask. When I was testing out rims in a 27.5 size I was running Beeeline(same as tread pattern as Nineline) in a 2.2 size. Like the tire in the front, but less so for the back, didn't like the grip in dry SoCal climbs. I went back to 29er rims as I like its rolls over vs 27.5. I try it tucked once but prefer the longer chainstay during descents. I am trying to stick in the 1.85+ range as I like the extra size over speed as it is about a 75/25 split between gravel/off-road(75) & road riding for me.


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

I'm considering a Soma Wolverine 3.0, but I'm a bit hesitant after reading several reviews with cracked frame around the dropout. As far as I understand, Soma made some reinforcements from 2.1 Wolverine, but I'd like to hear real user feedback on how reliable the Wolverine frame is...Thanks!


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I have a 2.0 & was told the craked dropouts really only were an issue on the larger frames with heavier riders & when having the dropouts all the way back. 3.0 & newer should have solved that.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

buffet said:


> I'm considering a Soma Wolverine 3.0, but I'm a bit hesitant after reading several reviews with cracked frame around the dropout. As far as I understand, Soma made some reinforcements from 2.1 Wolverine, but I'd like to hear real user feedback on how reliable the Wolverine frame is...Thanks!


I bought a Wolverine 2.0 in Jan 2016 and have had no frame issues. I've ridden it about 1000 miles since then, most of which were hard and fast miles over really rough terrain - the same trails I MTB on.



Funoutside said:


> I have a 2.0 & was told the craked dropouts really only were an issue on the larger frames with heavier riders & when having the dropouts all the way back. 3.0 & newer should have solved that.


Running tires too large, requiring the dropouts to be all the way back, was identified as a likely culprit - and obviously heavier riders transfer more force to suspected weak parts. I'm curious if riding these bikes super loaded up over rough terrain played a factor for many of the breaks? I ran mine with 29x2.25 tires for a long time, with the dropouts all the way back, and had no issues. I weigh 200lbs, and ride a 54cm bike, for reference.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Which 2.25 tires did you run, cause I thought the max is 2.1 for 29er tires. Did 2.25 tires fit through the fork too, or did you have to run smaller there? Would all 29x2.2 tires work or just some?


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> Which 2.25 tires did you run, cause I thought the max is 2.1 for 29er tires. Did 2.25 tires fit through the fork too, or did you have to run smaller there? Would all 29x2.2 tires work or just some?


I ran WTB Ninelines. They fit, barely. Was great for my commute, hauling my daughter around in her kid-seat, and really bumpy dried out fire roads. Sucked for pretty much everything else though, because if I went over mud, wet leaves, sticks, or anything loose, I was getting crap caught in the chainstays and fork. Also killed the fun handling of the bike, because I had to run the dropouts all the way back and it changed the trail too much.

The fit of a 2.2 29er tire would depend on rim width and tire construction. Often tires end up a little wider or narrower than advertised, and rim width can significantly exaggerate this. I have WTB i23s, and with the WTB Nineline 2.25s, the fit was super tight. A knobbier 2.2 on a wider rim would likely not fit, but no one can say for sure until someone tries it. Also, the fork had more clearance than the chainstays.

I personally won't run larger than a 42mm on this bike again - that just seems to be the sweet spot for me for ride, handling, grip, and looks.

For pics of my various setups, see posts 101, 105, 273, 400, 440, 446, and 553 of this thread. Strangely, I don't have pics of my current setup posted, with flat bars with XT and 42mm Resolutes, kinda like a super off road hybrid, haha. But this setup is only going to be on for a few more days, then back to drops and 105 with 35mm Cross Boss' for a mixed terrain race in a couple weeks. Love this bike with flat bars, but kinda looking forward to having it back with drops too, haha. If taxes are good to me this year, I might buy a V4 thru axle frame and run my flat bar setup on that one... maybe.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Thank you for your reply. I am currently running 29x1.95 tires in i25 Raceface offset wheels. I like the size, but not the Kenda Karma Sport XC tires* & will probably swap them out in the summer. It's slow-rolling on road & flat gravel, but like how it handles & goes down-hill. I also have a pair of WTB i21 rims I have for sale, but a part of me wants to keep to run 35mm Gravel Kings. But, I also have my eye on a plus tire rigid bike & have the Wolverine running 29x42mm gravel tires. I'll probably sleep on it until the summer so I can ride some of this out. 

*I bought wire bead by mistake because the amazon listing was wrong. They just charged me for one tire for their mistake & next time I am buying from a LBS.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Signed up for an event ride next weekend - gonna ride the Wolverine. Low Gap, part of the Grasshopper Adventure Series. ~45 miles/5600ft. Low Gap: Jan 25th - Grasshopper Adventure Series

Right now, I still have the bike built up with flat bars, 1x11, and 42c WTB Resolutes. I think I'm gonna switch it back to drops with bar ends, 2x11, and 35c WTB Cross Boss - basically make it a little more "roadish".

Should be fun!


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Was thinking about running the Cross Boss on my Wolverine, how do you like them with the Wolvie?


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Cross Boss is a great tire, with very similar characteristics to the Resolute, just a bit narrower and lighter. I measured the Resolute before removing last night, and on i23s, it measured 44mm after about 800 miles, and the brand new Cross Boss measured 36 on the same rims - they should plump just a smidge in the next week or two once I get some miles on them, probably to around 37ish. 

I haven't actually ridden this tire in about 2 years, but I remember them being pretty fast and easy rolling, with pretty good traction over most conditions - but I don't mind getting a little drifty through loose corners, YMMV. I haven't ridden the Gravelking SK, but I think they are comparable in 35mm. I will certainly update my stance on this opinion if my mind changes over the next few weeks, but I expect to appreciate this tire for a low-medium volume lightweight option with decent traction. Once I finish putting everything back together, I will post a pic of my bike, but it is definitely looking more and more "race-bikish", with narrower tires and drop bars, haha.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Nice. Did you change anything else to make it more race bike-ish?


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

I had it setup with flat bars, and today will finish the drivetrain work to switch back to drops - running a wide drop bar with bar end shifters, probably a little more aggressive fit than with flats too. I expect about 2" saddle-bar drop with this setup. TRP Spyres for brakes, was looking at newer Shimano hydraulic brake road levers, but $$$. Maybe for next bike build, haha.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I hear you about the brakes on BB5 & dreaming of something else, at least in the front.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

For sure, cable discs aren't great, regardless of which model you have - I've tried a handful and always walk away pretty disappointed when compared to even the cheapest flat bar hydro brakes. That's a big part of why my Wolverine lives a flat bar life at least 1/2 of the time. Sad part is, to get a legit hydro disc drop bar setup is woefully expensive. Almost cheaper to just find a donor bike on sale and strip the frame of components, but then there is the rest of it to deal with/get rid of. 

For cable discs, the BB7 was my favorite, and the Shimano CX version was pretty OK too. The Spyres are pretty meh - modulate OK but just have no power. Almost like they got the pull ratio wrong, even when using TRP levers! 

I might just buy an 11spd hydro 105 setup with a GRX derailleur this tax season and be done with it.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I kind of want to try the TRP HY/RD as it seems like the best of both worlds.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Yeah, I haven't heard a lot of positive reviews of those, just not close enough to the feel of real hydraulics. And they still cost like $200 for a pair, so not really saving that much over the Tiagra/105 shifter/brake combos. Granted, you can use those with whatever levers you are already running, which means you dont need to buy other components just to get the one to work. But, for another like $150 you can buy the RS505 levers and a GRX RD and be good to go for 1x11 with hydraulic. Granted, the RS505 aren't everyone's cup o' tea, just because the shape of the hoods is a little different than other Shimano levers, but they are available on several websites for around $200-230. 

I haven't pulled the trigger on that because I have already spent a fair bit on various different drivetrain configurations on this bike, and my wife is pretty much over the biek spending for a while. That, and I have enough parts to build a couple bikes, if I just had the frames and wheels, haha. I should probably score some old frames and wheels on CL and build up a couple bikes to sell....


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

The other option is going to the Yokozuna Motoko, which I've heard very good things from, but that's like $180 a caliper.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Race bike, lol.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Cockpit shot - TRP levers, Microshift 11spd MTB bar end. Connected to TRP Spyre with Shimano resin pads and XT RD, with 40T Wolf Tooth Elliptical ring on Ultegra crankset. WTB Cross Boss 35c tires on WTB rims, DT spokes, and XT hubs, with RT56 rotors. Ritchey post, stem, saddle, with Satori X-Race bar.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Looks sweet, really like the tan wall with the orange. I just order myself a TRP Spyre front brakes as I felt my front were the weak point on my ride They won't be here for another 2 weeks as I ordered it from an ebay seller who included a trp rotor & pads.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Thanks! I also like tan walls, and am pretty happy that they good on the Wolverine. The Resolutes are also tanwall, but a little "browner" than the Cross Boss. Either way, looked good! I almost went with the green Gravel Kings, but I've been very happy with WTB tires for a long time.

The Spyre should be a bit of an upgrade over the BB5 - I haven't ridden a bike with BB5s, but have plenty of miles on the Spyres, and generally they are pretty good for cable disc. 

I put in 22 miles and 2500ft today, a nice little shakedown after making the switch back to dropbars. Pretty happy with how it rides, as always. Was actually 1 minute faster on the same loop than I was on my road bike with 32c tires a few days - makes me feel good about my tire and gearing choices.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

And a shot of my custom made-by-me repair kit bag.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

SpeedyStein said:


> Thanks! I also like tan walls, and am pretty happy that they good on the Wolverine. The Resolutes are also tanwall, but a little "browner" than the Cross Boss. Either way, looked good! I almost went with the green Gravel Kings, but I've been very happy with WTB tires for a long time.
> 
> The Spyre should be a bit of an upgrade over the BB5 - I haven't ridden a bike with BB5s, but have plenty of miles on the Spyres, and generally, they are pretty good for cable disc.
> 
> I put in 22 miles and 2500ft today, a nice little shakedown after making the switch back to dropbars. Pretty happy with how it rides, as always. Was actually 1 minute faster on the same loop than I was on my road bike with 32c tires a few days - makes me feel good about my tire and gearing choices.


I know bb5 vs bb7 the bb7 uses larger pads. Spyre pads are also larger than what the bb5 has to offer so that should really improve stopping power on my Wolverine.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

There is a bit more to it than just pad size, but yes, the Spyre uses a larger pad than BB5 or BB7. The Spyre uses the Shimano BS01 pad, which is pretty much the de facto non-series Shimano pad. You will notice that Shimano and a few aftermarket folks make MUCH better pads/rotors than TRP - I went to a 180mm Shimano rotor with Shimano pads and had a very noticeable increase in both bite and heat dissipation. If Shimano made a compatible Ice Tech rotor/pad, I bet the difference would be that much again, but they don't.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Wait the Wolverine can handle 180mm rotors? Is that for the front or back too?


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

I've only tried on the flat crown fork, and it's a pretty close fit. I'd assume SOMA wouldn't endorse it, since they don't mention it in the specs on the webpage.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Ah that makes more sense. Almost have me wanting to get a 180mm rotor now. I wonder if something between 160 & 180 exists.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Nothing standard between those sizes. If you have a flat crown qr Wolverine fork, a 180 rotor works, you just gotta get the right caliper adaptor too. Easy peasy, your LBS can point you in the right direction there, they should have the one you need in stock.

That said, I've been running the 180 for a couple years, with 3 different calipers, no problems at all. If it fits, it fits.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Good to know. I have running the QR fork. How much better would say 180 is over 160?

It looks like Avid makes a 170mm rotor, but it's priced like a more premium rotor. https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pr...6-bold-disc-bicycle-center-line-front-or-rear

I'm really tempted to go 180mm front, will have to see if my current mounts support 180.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> Good to know. I have running the QR fork. How much better would say 180 is over 160?
> 
> It looks like Avid makes a 170mm rotor, but it's priced like a more premium rotor. https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pr...6-bold-disc-bicycle-center-line-front-or-rear
> 
> I'm really tempted to go 180mm front, will have to see if my current mounts support 180.


Though it is a relatively modern rotor design, I think that Avid rotor is a pretty rare/obsolete part. You would likely have a difficult time finding an appropriate caliper adapter for a brake that wasn't an Avid/SRAM.

For a 180mm rotor, you will need a new caliper adapter. Shimano among others make this part, and it is very common. I will look at the part # of mine when I get home, but you can also find it on Shimano's website - they have a whole table of rotor size and mount types to help find the right one.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I think for simplicity sake will keep it 160mm for now. If I don't find it enough, I will switch to 180mm.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

If you already have the 160 installed and working, stick with that for a while and feel it out. If you want a little more power and fade resistance, get different pads and rotor. A 160vs 180 rotor is pretty significant, but not as much as jumping to hydraulic brakes, since hydraulic brakes offer so much more overall power, though even then a 180mm rotor might be preferred for heat dissipation.

Here is the adaptor you need for a 180mm rotor: 
SM-MA-R160 P/S


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I have 160mm BB5 installed & just ordered 160mm TRP Spyre-C for the front as the BB5s are really not working out for me. I will test out the Spyres with 160mm & see how I like it. If I feel like I need more then 1800mm could be the next step. Yeah I read that 180mm warps a bit less due to having more space for the heat spreads. But, I've also read there are suppose to be rotor models that also help keep it a bit cooler, like TI.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Finished the ride mid-pack, as I expected. Everything went well, and I am very happy with my equipment choices. Amid the field of carbon bikes, I saw one other rider on a Wolverine, and a handful of other steel bikes. Pretty sure I was the only one with barend shifters, haha. There were a few really deep mud holes, and the Cross Boss tires performed admirably, narrow enough to sink down to the bottom and find traction where wider tires were floating and sliding. The Spyres did their job well also, but I will definitely need to adjust before riding again, the dirt descent definitely scrubbed the pads down a bit. Tons of mud, a little rain, tons of fun!


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## grizzladams (Jan 27, 2020)

Can anyone using 12x142 thru-axle dropouts on a Wolverine (v3 if it matters) confirm which rear rotor size they are using? I’m trying to set up BB7s with 160s and it doesn’t seem to work.


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## grizzladams (Jan 27, 2020)

Can anyone using 12x142 thru-axle dropouts on a Wolverine (v3 if it matters) confirm which rear rotor size they are using? I’m trying to set up BB7s with 160s and it doesn’t seem to work.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

What exactly is the problem? Is the caliper too close to the rotor, or the caliper too far from the rotor? Or is it a centering issue, the caliper just won't align on the rotor?


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## grizzladams (Jan 27, 2020)

I figured it out- I didn’t realize that the front and rear have different size brackets for the same size rotor. I need a 20mm offset bracket.

Thanks for the reply and sorry for the double post.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Glad you got it sorted, caliper brackets can be frustrating, especially when everything is supposed to line up and it doesn't... I had to try a couple to get the right one for the front. What is the rest of the build? I am always curious to see how other folks build their Wolverine up - they are so versatile!


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## grizzladams (Jan 27, 2020)

Mid-build. Crankset will be SRAM Rival and the rest of the drivetrain is GX Eagle.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

That is a really sweet looking setup. I have a similar setup Rival crankset & GX(non-Eagle) in the back. Really paired well with my Rival carbon brifters. I take you will be runing like a 10-50t in the back?


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Looks great! I'm thinking really hard about switching mine back to flat bars... we will see what the next few rides look/feel like.


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## grizzladams (Jan 27, 2020)

I thought I would share the complete specs of my build and some other details to possibly help others who might be building Wolverines. I built this bike to be the one I use 95% of the time for commuting around Denver, running errands, and everything else.










I only ran into a few minor speedbumps during the build:

1) The 2 dropout tightening bolts on right side interfered with the chain when on the smallest cog. Grinding about 1mm off of the bolts did the trick. Chain clearance with the dropout is extremely close, but it's there.

2) The rear brake caliper interfered with the first rear rack I tried, the Tubus Vega Evo. The rack I ended up with required that I file about 1mm off the bottom of the mounting tabs to clear the "shoulder" atop each dropout.

I'll eventually cut the steerer tube and fender mounts once I find the sweet spots. I'm in the market for some saddlebags, reflective tape, and maybe some dynamo-driven lights, but other than that, she's all wrapped up and I'm very happy with the ride quality.


*Category**Component**Specifics**Notes*FramesetFrameSoma Wolverine v3.0, size 56ForkSoma Wolverine unicrown thru-axleIncludes thru axleCockpitHeadsetCane Creek 40 ec34StemSoma Shotwell 7DHandlebarSoma ClarenceGripsODI Troy Lee lock-onDrivetrainCranksetSRAM Rival 1 GXP 110 42T X-SyncCassetteSRAM XG-1275 GX Eagle 12 spd. 10-50TRear derailleurSRAM GX Eagle 12 spd.ShifterSRAM GX Eagle 12 spd.Shifter cable/housingJagWireChainSRAM GX EagleBottom BracketSRAM GXP Team 68/73PedalsFoundation Composite PlatformDowntube cable stopsShimano Housing Stops for 1-1/8" downtubeBrakesCalipersAvid BB7 MTBKit on eBay, included wrong IS bracket for rear (need 20mm)LeversAvid FR7Caliper bracket20 IS disc brake bracketOnly req'd separately bc eBay kit included 1 wrong bracketCable/housingJagWire pro brake kit mountainWheelsWheelsetBicycle Wheel Warehouse CXDPro Gravel/CX/Road 700c Tubeless Clincher discFront Hub 6 Bolt disc: Speed Tuned Super 6 2.0 15mm TA
Rear Hub 6 Bolt disc: Speed Tuned Super 6 2.0 12x142mm TA
Freehub: Sram MTB XD
Spokes: DT Swiss Competition Black 2.0/1.8mm
Nipple Color: BrassTiresSoma Shikoro Steel Bead 700c, 38mmQR to thru axle adapter, rightDT-Swiss 12x142mm Thru Axle with 1.0 Thread PitcheBayQR to thru axle adapter, leftIRD sliding Dropout insert 142mm Thru left sideSomaTubes700x25-38Or similarThru-axle, rearRockShox Maxle Stealth Rear Thru Axle: 12x142, 167mm Length, Santa Cruz/ScottSeatSeatCardiff Harlech Leather Saddle, blackSeatpostKalloy Uno 27.2 blackSeatpost clampSoma 29.8mmAccessoriesFendersVelo Orange Zeppelin 52mm blackRackAxiom Streamliner Disc


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

That's a really sweet setup. I am still waiting for my front TRP Spyers to show up in the mail as again had some issues with my BB5 setup mostly related to brake rub & simply being noisy.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

^^ Nice setup! I had that Axiom rack on my old commuter, really liked that rack. 

I will post pics later, but I just set my Wolverine up to ride in a road event - 90 miles start to finish. I swapped in an older 5700 105 group I had, Spyres, and some 32mm Continental Grand Sport Race rubber. Went for a 36 mile test ride, this bike does really well as a road bike too!


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

I need some advice from fellow Soma Wolverine owners. I have one and I'm thinking I have probably posted way back in this thread LOL as I'm still subscribed to it. I recently set my bike up single speed. Currently my bike has salsa cowbell bars with an 80mm bontrager stem with a 17-degree rise and 45 mm of spacers under the stem. Since I set it up single speed I'm thinking of changing the setup and maybe putting a 70 mm 25 degree stem on. But I'm not sure on this bike how it would feel and react with a stem that short and that high as a SS gravel grinder.Anyone else running a really short stem on a SS wolverine? My salsa Fargo has gears and a very short cockpit but I like it that way. I'm just not sure on this bike in single speed mode if it will feel just as good or be detrimental.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

I played around with a bunch of different stem lengths and angles, mine was pretty shreddy with a 70mm stem and wide drops, with 42mm tires. Not single speed, but that doesn't impact handling. I also tried a 90mm stem @ 30degree (I think?), and it was wonky feeling. I was trying to get a set of old WTB Dirt Drops to work, but just couldn't get comfortable. It either was too long but handled well, or good length, but handled like poo. I'm currently using 100mm stem, 7d, with shallow drops in a roadish setup, works excellent for my purpose.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I'm running an 80mm at a 18+ rise, I like it more than the previous stem I had, 90mm +25 rise. I just wish it was 75mm as I found 70mm a tad small. If 70mm works for you the I don't see what issues could arise.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> I played around with a bunch of different stem lengths and angles, mine was pretty shreddy with a 70mm stem and wide drops, with 42mm tires. Not single speed, but that doesn't impact handling. I also tried a 90mm stem @ 30degree (I think?), and it was wonky feeling. I was trying to get a set of old WTB Dirt Drops to work, but just couldn't get comfortable. It either was too long but handled well, or good length, but handled like poo. I'm currently using 100mm stem, 7d, with shallow drops in a roadish setup, works excellent for my purpose.


I had a 90 mm x 30 degree rise Ritchey at one time and it actually didn't feel too bad but I was so high up.



Funoutside said:


> I'm running an 80mm at a 18+ rise, I like it more than the previous stem I had, 90mm +25 rise. I just wish it was 75mm as I found 70mm a tad small. If 70mm works for you the I don't see what issues could arise.


An 80 with enough rise would actually be close to 75 in actual length

The issue is that what I have now (58 frame size, 80 MM Bontrager race lite stem 17 degree rise) feels nice and perfect actually. But after the miles add up and I have been jamming and mashing the hills, my lower back starts to get stiff,tight, and sore. When this happens of course you start falling forward more on your hands. I know people say core exercises and I agree but the stiff back is an issue I have had since I was a young auto mechanic. Anytime I got to working on a car for several hours leaning over the fender, my back would get so stiff I could hardly stand up at first when it was time to go home. I am 6' tall and very flexible but my lower back just gets sore as heck after so long leaning over. I have also noticed a correlation between my lower back muscles and heavy grinding up a hill. It seems that the more I lean forward, the more my lower back seems to engage and do half the work when I am pumping up a steep hill. This goes for geared sitting in the seat or standing and mashing. The more hunched over I am the more it feels like my lumbars are doing the work. I assume this is normal of the human body. But a part of me wonders if I was too upright when I was standing, I may lose power too. IDK

Here's a pic. Currently set up with 36 Wolf Tooth oval and 19 WT stainless rear cog. Yesterdays ride was a test for this project. I went on a 30 mile ride with over 2k of elevation. Most the elevation was on the second half as the first half the ride was more flat. I wasn't yet set up SS but I knew I wanted to so I shifted to the 18T cog and didn't touch my shifter again. I rode 36x18 the whole ride with the drag of the rear derailleur. I didn't have to push a single hill BUT boy there were a few I crept up with one crank revolution every 2 seconds......SLOW! I will get stronger as I ride more but I still wonder if a 20 T cog wouldn't be better for my area. Some gravel hills yesterday were 12-14 percent grade.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Well here's an update. What a difference changing drop bar angle makes. I rotated my hoods downward which flattened out my drops to about a zero degree angle which is how I have my other drop bar bike setup. This moved my drop height up a couple centimeters. Night and day difference.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

iowamtb said:


> I had a 90 mm x 30 degree rise Ritchey at one time and it actually didn't feel too bad but I was so high up.
> 
> An 80 with enough rise would actually be close to 75 in actual length
> 
> ...


Nice! I tried single speed for a little while, definitely not strong enough to ride around here with only one gear. Lots of rides with about the same elevation profile as what you described. Maybe if a little flatter?

It took me quite a few tries to figure out the right stem for this bike for me, especially for the different bar combos I've tried. I have 3 bars I switch between, and I think I've got the stem situation sorted for them. Only took 4 years, haha. In that time though, I've done a couple thousand miles on this bike and keep coming home happy, so worth the effort for me.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

iowamtb said:


> Well here's an update. What a difference changing drop bar angle makes. I rotated my hoods downward which flattened out my drops to about a zero degree angle which is how I have my other drop bar bike setup. This moved my drop height up a couple centimeters. Night and day difference.


Bar angle makes a huge difference for me - as does lever placement on the bars. A bit of a pain in the butt to change lever angles if you've already wrapped your bars, but makes a big difference once you get it perfect for your use.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> Nice! I tried single speed for a little while, definitely not strong enough to ride around here with only one gear. Lots of rides with about the same elevation profile as what you described. Maybe if a little flatter?
> 
> It took me quite a few tries to figure out the right stem for this bike for me, especially for the different bar combos I've tried. I have 3 bars I switch between, and I think I've got the stem situation sorted for them. Only took 4 years, haha. In that time though, I've done a couple thousand miles on this bike and keep coming home happy, so worth the effort for me.


I've been bitten by the SS bug. Man it is so free of extra drag and you have no thoughts of gears. You just ride! Yeah I've had to push one or two but these were hills i could have ridden. I was just super fatigued at the time and didn't have a 42t rear to bail me out. So as i get stronger stuff like this should get better. And honestly I'm not afraid to walk. Plenty of geared riders pedal up hills as slow as you can walk anyways. I know cause I've done it. You know you're spinning up a steep hill when your GPS auto pauses lol!


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

iowamtb said:


> I've been bitten by the SS bug. Man it is so free of extra drag and you have no thoughts of gears. You just ride! Yeah I've had to push one or two but these were hills i could have ridden. I was just super fatigued at the time and didn't have a 42t rear to bail me out. So as i get stronger stuff like this should get better. And honestly I'm not afraid to walk. Plenty of geared riders pedal up hills as slow as you can walk anyways. I know cause I've done it. You know you're spinning up a steep hill when your GPS auto pauses lol!


True, single speed frees things up to focus more on the ride and less on the equipment for sure. I might mess around and build my bike up as single speed someday, after my current race series finishes this summer perhaps - too many rides with 6k+ ft coming up, haha. Maybe for cross next season? I plan to do the local cross circuit this season, would fun on a SS, and probably a lot easier on equipment...


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## Evilone (Jun 7, 2018)

Hey guys. Just bought my first V1 orange Wolfie frame. Was about to build it as a commuter with belt drive and flat bar. Thinking Alfine 8 with Gates Carbon. Any thoughts on this?

Also, have a pair of WTB Riddler’s 45-622 available, has anyone used these with long mudguards succesfully?

Thanks in advance,

Karri


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

If I remember correctly, support for belt drive started with version 2, but someone else may correct me here.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> If I remember correctly, support for belt drive started with version 2, but someone else may correct me here.


I'm not 100% sure either. I'm not sure which version mine is. I know it's black and it's belt drive compatible. I'm not sure if they offered black in the version one so I may have a version 2


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## Evilone (Jun 7, 2018)

V1 splits from the middle there.

https://forums.mtbr.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1312815&d=1582223866


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I have a black V2.


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## 839138 (Jun 7, 2018)

I had an b-side (v3) with the dropout issue with the tange/irds (dropout acting as leverage to rotate upwards from the disc brake). Bear in mind I had the axles all the way forward, and am not an aggressive rider at all. Terrible design, terrible customer service from Soma, so I no longer have the frame.

Now, I see an earlier wolverine with those same dropouts locked to a bike rack near me at work, with the axles slid all the way back, as well as a baby/small child carrier attached to a rear rack. I cringe every time I see it, but not sure it's worth mentioning anything to the owner if I ever see him/her?


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

I recently changed my Wolvie to SS. This has completely changed the way I feel when I ride this thing. It is so much more fun for whatever reason. I have been having so much fun that I bought the stuff and converted my Salsa Fargo to SS as well. But for some reason I cannot seem to want to ride the Fargo as much at the moment  . The Wolvie feels quick and nimble and the Fargo feels like a Sherman tank. Anyways here are a couple picks from last Sunday


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

I have ordered SOma Wolverine 3.0 frame, it's on the way to me now. Question to those with building experience with this frame - does the frame come with any sort of cable routing bracket which is usually attached to the frame below the BB? 

Or do I have to buy it separately? If so, what is your recommendation?

(I'm talking about the rear derailer shifter cable here)


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

loren90 said:


> I had an b-side (v3) with the dropout issue with the tange/irds (dropout acting as leverage to rotate upwards from the disc brake). Bear in mind I had the axles all the way forward, and am not an aggressive rider at all. Terrible design, terrible customer service from Soma, so I no longer have the frame.
> 
> Now, I see an earlier wolverine with those same dropouts locked to a bike rack near me at work, with the axles slid all the way back, as well as a baby/small child carrier attached to a rear rack. I cringe every time I see it, but not sure it's worth mentioning anything to the owner if I ever see him/her?


if you want to mention it just to pass your knowledge on to that person that it might be better to slide the dropouts forward then I would say go ahead. I wouldn't bring it up just to try to discourage them from riding that bike, or scaring the person. I try not to run my dropouts all the way back but both my b side and my Wolverine are running about the midpoint. I have put my b-side through some aggressive stuff in the past including a few 2 foot drops. Not everybody was having problems with frames breaking from the dropouts. There were a few cases for sure. and if you search hard enough you're going to find people that say any manufacturer occasionally has a problem with a frame breaking like that. It isn't just Soma.

As for their customer service.....You're not the first person I have seen say that. Me personally I ALWAYS call them on the phone NEVER email. I have always gotten a friendly voice with expertise and advice whether regarding my frames or accessories. I have never tried to warranty a frame though so......


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

buffet said:


> I have ordered SOma Wolverine 3.0 frame, it's on the way to me now. Question to those with building experience with this frame - does the frame come with any sort of cable routing bracket which is usually attached to the frame below the BB?
> 
> Or do I have to buy it separately? If so, what is your recommendation?
> 
> (I'm talking about the rear derailer shifter cable here)


Mine came with one of the brackets or cable guides. Since I went SS I removed it and am glad I did. Both my Wolvie and my Fargo recently had standing water and crud in the BB shell. Now that I removed the guide from my Soma I now have a drain hole. I drilled a small hole in my Fargo BB shell at the recommendation of a reputable mechanic I know.


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

iowamtb said:


> Mine came with one of the brackets or cable guides. Since I went SS I removed it and am glad I did. Both my Wolvie and my Fargo recently had standing water and crud in the BB shell. Now that I removed the guide from my Soma I now have a drain hole. I drilled a small hole in my Fargo BB shell at the recommendation of a reputable mechanic I know.


 Can you take a picture of how the bottom of the frame looks liek, please?


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

buffet said:


> Can you take a picture of how the bottom of the frame looks liek, please?


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

thanks, I guess I will try to use some doublesided duct tape to attach the cable housing and leave this hole open. Any suggestion for cable housing that attaches itself via self adhesive tape rather than bolt?


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

buffet said:


> thanks, I guess I will try to use some doublesided duct tape to attach the cable housing and leave this hole open. Any suggestion for cable housing that attaches itself via self adhesive tape rather than bolt?


Man you're making it way too complicated. just attach the thing with the provided screw. See if you can find some place to drill a small hole through, that is not in the threaded area of the shell if you're b worried about it. This may void the frames warranty though so proceed with caution. Otherwise just don't worry about it. I ride on a lot of sloppy gravel roads so a lot of this just depends on what you ride in. Some of that was probably bathwater as I just gave my bike a bath a week earlier. Put a plastic bag over your seat so that it's covered from water getting down in the seat tube.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I wonder if we can get Soma to switch out if we have a V1 or V2 for at least a V3 for safety reasons. 

Side note had Spyres installed as my front brakes & like how it feels, but the stock pads it came with could be better. Shop that completed the install for me said BB5 & even BB7 are just plain bad.


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

Funoutside said:


> I wonder if we can get Soma to switch out if we have a V1 or V2 for at least a V3 for safety reasons.


I wonder why you say "at least" - I think the dropout design V3 vs V4 is the same, isn't it?


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Well there is two versions V4 & in my experience with various companies if they want to give a replacement they give out the previous version & not the latest.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

The V1 and V2 versions have a known issue with dropouts - read the earlier posts in this thread - most of the failures occurred while running large tires (2" +), with sliders slid all the way back (required to fit large tires), while riding on rough terrain. 

Those of us who still have those frames just need to be aware of the bike's limitations. 

I don't see SOMA replacing frames that don't have an issue. If they want to talk about a recall, I will trade them my V2 for a Double Cross or an A-Type V4 right now tho. 

Yes, their customer service is kinda slow if you email. I've never called, but they took care of me via email within a couple days. 

Also in this thread is a mention of SOMA extending the warranty on older frames specifically for the chainstay issue. I am not sure how long this will be good for, but at least it seems that not that long ago folks have had some degree of success with working with SOMA IRT to chainstay issues. 

BB7s aren't that bad. I like that they at least come with decent pads and rotors, and they are pretty easy to setup/maintain. I will never buy another cable disc caliper, but if I did, it would probably be a BB7. 

Lastly, love the single speeds! I've found myself doing a lot of longer gravel/road events on my Wolverine lately, so it isn't for me right now. I think I am going to race 'cross this year, and I can definitely see a singlespeed Wolverine in my future for that purpose, if not for my main bike, certainly for a backup bike.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I was at my LBS yesterday & someone had brought in their V1 frame as it had a crack & wanted to see if the shop can help. It got me a bit worried, but the person frame looked larger than my 52. I read that most of the crack frames were on larger sizes.

After my experience with the BB5 if I were to do it again I'd be going TRP Spyer f/r on the budget or Hy/rd if I had the money one of the Yokozuna models. Currently have the Spyers up front & it's quiet, but also the stock pads suck, which I may just swap for a sintered pad in the summer.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> I was at my LBS yesterday & someone had brought in their V1 frame as it had a crack & wanted to see if the shop can help. It got me a bit worried, but the person frame looked larger than my 52. I read that most of the crack frames were on larger sizes.
> 
> After my experience with the BB5 if I were to do it again I'd be going TRP Spyer f/r on the budget or Hy/rd if I had the money one of the Yokozuna models. Currently have the Spyers up front & it's quiet, but also the stock pads suck, which I may just swap for a sintered pad in the summer.


Maybe cause most riders on larger frames are larger heavier people on the same size tubes? I am on a 58. I am 6' and 175 so not a Clyde but others may be 6'+ and well over 200 lbs. Makes logical sense to me


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Yea I was told when I got my frame it was 56+ models with riders over 200+ that need to be careful. I am 5' 8" & similar weight as you riding 29x2in tires with the slider close to the back. I think I am fine there. Since I got a plus tire bike I plan to swap to 29 x 43-45mm tires on the Wolverine & slide it forwards a bit minimize any issues.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> I was at my LBS yesterday & someone had brought in their V1 frame as it had a crack & wanted to see if the shop can help. It got me a bit worried, but the person frame looked larger than my 52. I read that most of the crack frames were on larger sizes.
> 
> After my experience with the BB5 if I were to do it again I'd be going TRP Spyer f/r on the budget or Hy/rd if I had the money one of the Yokozuna models. Currently have the Spyers up front & it's quiet, but also the stock pads suck, which I may just swap for a sintered pad in the summer.


A lot of the problems were on larger frames, because generally larger people ride larger frames, and thus the forces involved were greater.

Sintered pads with Spyres might OK, but be sure to check your rotors to make sure they work with metal pads, and double check to make sure that they are OK with the older Shimano pad standard that Spyres use - many rotors do not have a wide enough braking surface for those pads. The Shimano compatibility has a nice chart that shows which rotors work with which pads, both width and composition.

BB7s are a whole different beast over BB5s. Different mechanism, different factory pad compound and shape. I had less trouble with the BB7s on my old road/commuter bike than any other brakes I've ever owned - ever. After thousands of miles, I adjusted them maybe twice, and never had any want for more stopping power. I love the feel and power of modern hydraulic brakes, but I've yet to run a set that required less fiddling than my old BB7s.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> BB7s are a whole different beast over BB5s. Different mechanism, different factory pad compound and shape. I had less trouble with the BB7s on my old road/commuter bike than any other brakes I've ever owned - ever. After thousands of miles, I adjusted them maybe twice, and never had any want for more stopping power. I love the feel and power of modern hydraulic brakes, but I've yet to run a set that required less fiddling than my old BB7s.


Thank you for this! I've got BB7s on two different bikes and I have had zero problems plus all the stopping power I have ever needed. I am absolutely not afraid to put them on any bike I have. Why spend a fortune on the higher-priced brakes when they work so damn well!


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

iowamtb said:


> Thank you for this! I've got BB7s on two different bikes and I have had zero problems plus all the stopping power I have ever needed. I am absolutely not afraid to put them on any bike I have. Why spend a fortune on the higher-priced brakes when they work so damn well!


I've been saying for a long time - BB7s are great brakes if they are setup halfway properly. Great stopping power, Avid pads last approximately forever, the pads/rotors are a package deal, and they come in long or short pull to match the intended levers. If I was going to tour the world, BB7s would be my go to without hesitation. The only downside I can see is that they don't modulate as well as a decent hydraulic brake, but they definitely have more power than a lot of the lower end hydraulic brakes I've used, and they don't fade nearly as easily. If I didn't already have a set of Spyres from a previous bike, I would have used BB7s on my Wolverine.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

SpeedyStein said:


> A lot of the problems were on larger frames, because generally larger people ride larger frames, and thus the forces involved were greater.
> 
> Sintered pads with Spyres might OK, but be sure to check your rotors to make sure they work with metal pads, and double check to make sure that they are OK with the older Shimano pad standard that Spyres use - many rotors do not have a wide enough braking surface for those pads. The Shimano compatibility has a nice chart that shows which rotors work with which pads, both width and composition.
> 
> BB7s are a whole different beast over BB5s. Different mechanism, different factory pad compound and shape. I had less trouble with the BB7s on my old road/commuter bike than any other brakes I've ever owned - ever. After thousands of miles, I adjusted them maybe twice, and never had any want for more stopping power. I love the feel and power of modern hydraulic brakes, but I've yet to run a set that required less fiddling than my old BB7s.


Thank you for your reply. I am using the stock 160mm TRP Tr160-29 rotors that came with the Spyre. Was thinking of just getting the Shimano M515 as those are $8 at REI.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> Thank you for your reply. I am using the stock 160mm TRP Tr160-29 rotors that came with the Spyre. Was thinking of just getting the Shimano M515 as those are $8 at REI.


I've had pretty good luck with the B01S (M515) pads. Definitely not as much bite as a metal pad, but they do work well enough, and are a big improvement over the TRP pads. The Jagwire pads are OK too, but I feel like they over-heated a little easier than the Shimano pads. TruckerCo pads were OK, but didn't have the same bite as the Shimano pads.


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

I received my Wolverine frame last night, the split seatstay looks a bit bent or is it ok/supposed to be like this?


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

buffet said:


> I received my Wolverine frame last night, the split seatstay looks a bit bent or is it ok/supposed to be like this?


Have you tried to fit a wheel in there to see what it looks like? I know mine won't line up perfectly with both sliders all the way forward, the NDS has to be about an 1/8th of an inch rear ward, but once that is lined up, the tire is perfectly aligned with the downtube and between the seat/chain stays.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

SpeedyStein said:


> I've had pretty good luck with the B01S (M515) pads. Definitely not as much bite as a metal pad, but they do work well enough, and are a big improvement over the TRP pads. The Jagwire pads are OK too, but I feel like they over-heated a little easier than the Shimano pads. TruckerCo pads were OK, but didn't have the same bite as the Shimano pads.


Yeah the stock trp pads are awful. I heard it wasn't good, but it's worse than the avid/sram pads I had on the bb5 on the front. Plan to change them out tonight.


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

SpeedyStein said:


> Have you tried to fit a wheel in there to see what it looks like? I know mine won't line up perfectly with both sliders all the way forward, the NDS has to be about an 1/8th of an inch rear ward, but once that is lined up, the tire is perfectly aligned with the downtube and between the seat/chain stays.


Yes, the wheel is more or less centered along the downtube (as far as I can tell). Your alignment issue - is this because the frame is not 100% straight or whats the reason?


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> Have you tried to fit a wheel in there to see what it looks like? I know mine won't line up perfectly with both sliders all the way forward, the NDS has to be about an 1/8th of an inch rear ward, but once that is lined up, the tire is perfectly aligned with the downtube and between the seat/chain stays.


My Wolvie is the same way and actually so is my V4 Bside. So what is proper? Are the stays off from the seat tube or are the sliders off? I have always set mine with the sliders perfectly even side to side. I have even used dial calipers to measure at times. I center my tire within the chain stays and it is usually a smidge off from the centerline of the seat tube. If I center it perfectly with the seat tube then it is slightly off center in the chain stays. It's enough that it is noticeable. I rode my Wolverine across Iowa a few years ago (500 miles) and never had any funky tire wear with it centered in the chain strays.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

buffet said:


> Yes, the wheel is more or less centered along the downtube (as far as I can tell). Your alignment issue - is this because the frame is not 100% straight or whats the reason?


I've heard of other frames from other manufacturers that are like this too - not really sure why. I initially figured it was a QC thing, but it hasnt caused any problems, so I pretty much disregarded it. I didn't notice until I tried running the sliders all the way back to fit huge tires, which was about a year and 1500 miles after I purchased it. I thought perhaps I had caused some sort of misalignment, but asked others in this thread about it and theirs were the same - so I think it might be intentional now. For why? No idea.



iowamtb said:


> My Wolvie is the same way and actually so is my V4 Bside. So what is proper? Are the stays off from the seat tube or are the sliders off? I have always set mine with the sliders perfectly even side to side. I have even used dial calipers to measure at times. I center my tire within the chain stays and it is usually a smidge off from the centerline of the seat tube. If I center it perfectly with the seat tube then it is slightly off center in the chain stays. It's enough that it is noticeable. I rode my Wolverine across Iowa a few years ago (500 miles) and never had any funky tire wear with it centered in the chain strays.


Mine is kinda the same, if I line up the sliders perfectly, the tire is not straight with the seat tube, and not the same distance between either seat stays or chainstays. If I line up the sliders with one side about 3 mm aft of the other (I forget which side is which), the tire is perfectly aligned with the seat tube and centered between the stays. I think the sliding dropouts allows SOMA to be a little looser with the QC because it all lines up in the end. For the last 2 years, I've had one side "shorter" than the other, with the tire perfectly aligned in the frame, and haven't had any ill handling/tire wear/random stuff. Not sure what the "proper" way to do it is, that's just how I do it


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

I am more worried about the seatstay being not straight at the split, which can cause some issues under stress. I would appreciate if you check yours and see if it’s the same way or not


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

buffet said:


> I am more worried about the seatstay being not straight at the split, which can cause some issues under stress. I would appreciate if you check yours and see if it's the same way or not


Scroll up a little bit and look at the pictures of my Soma. It is the single speed one with the green bar tape. you can clearly see my split and it is not bent like yours. I would contact Merry sales via a phone call and discuss that with them. (650) 871-8870


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

buffet said:


> I am more worried about the seatstay being not straight at the split, which can cause some issues under stress. I would appreciate if you check yours and see if it's the same way or not


I'm sure you already have, but did you check to make sure the stay bolts are properly torqued?


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

SpeedyStein said:


> I'm sure you already have, but did you check to make sure the stay bolts are properly torqued?


I measured the distance between the dropouts (I have the 142mm thru-axle version), it's 143mm.

Whats the proper torque for these botls?


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> If I line up the sliders with one side about 3 mm aft of the other (I forget which side is which), the tire is perfectly aligned with the seat tube and centered between the stays.


My sliders right now/for the past two years. Drove side is about 3mm aft of the NDS. 

















buffet said:


> I am more worried about the seatstay being not straight at the split, which can cause some issues under stress. I would appreciate if you check yours and see if it's the same way or not


My rear triangle right now - it's a V2. Doesn't look the same as yours - maybe a bit of shipping damage? Is yours a V3? Might account for a little variation? Definitely worth a call to SOMA.


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

Let me share an update on my talks with Soma about the seatstay issue. Basically I got 2 replies, one directly from their support:

_Hi Denis:
Looks like the bolts are not tight.
Can the bolts at the split be easily tightened and loosened?
If they can, and the wheel can be installed without crookedness, then it should not pose a problem._

And another one that they sent to the distributor:









The wheel actually sits very much centered, compared to the downtube and chainstays/seatstays. I went to the local bike shop to confirm my observations which they did. Basically their advice is to try to ride it carefully and see if everything holds well. If it doesn't, I guess I will try to bend it or even weld the damn thing as I don't have any plans to use the belt.

This is how I managed to correct the issue following Soma's instructions ("pull and tighten"):


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

(don't pay attention to the extruding bolt head, I used a different hex bolt, because the original Torx ones are too soft)


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

buffet said:


> The wheel actually sits very much centered, compared to the downtube and chainstays/seatstays. I went to the local bike shop to confirm my observations which they did. Basically their advice is to try to ride it carefully and see if everything holds well. If it doesn't, I guess I will try to bend it or even weld the damn thing as I don't have any plans to use the belt.


Glad you got it sorted. Did you basically loosen, then tighten while holding it in the correct position?

Agree on the bolts that the frame ships with too - but I guess their reasoning was better the bolt strip than the frame? IDK though - usually stainless is "harder" than cro-mo, unless the bolts it shipped with aren't stainless.


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

SpeedyStein said:


> Glad you got it sorted. Did you basically loosen, then tighten while holding it in the correct position?


Yeah, I did several tries on this trying to pull on the seatstays, then tighten. It's better, but not perfect; so I wouldn't call it getting sorted 

And Soma's approach is not what I expected - this "no problem, it happens sometimes" is more like AliExpress vendors approach, not the reputable San Francisco brand


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

buffet said:


> Yeah, I did several tries on this trying to pull on the seatstays, then tighten. It's better, but not perfect; so I wouldn't call it getting sorted
> 
> And Soma's approach is not what I expected - this "no problem, it happens sometimes" is more like AliExpress vendors approach, not the reputable San Francisco brand


Yeah, they aren't exactly known for their customer service. Fortunately their bikes ride really nicely! Post some pics and ride reports once you get it built up!


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## somaamos (Mar 4, 2019)

My latest build.
Bar Tape is still missing.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

somaamos said:


> My latest build.
> Bar Tape is still missing.
> View attachment 1320039


Very classy build!


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Anyone own a green V4 yet? I have one coming in a few weeks to replace my old V1.5 black frame. The color looks interesting to say the least. I ordered a 56 in the V4 to replace a 58 in my old frame. The geometry has changed so a new 56 is closer to an old 58. I will even get a tad more stack and a tad less reach. Pretty stoked! Would love to see pics.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

iowamtb said:


> Anyone own a green V4 yet? I have one coming in a few weeks to replace my old V1.5 black frame. The color looks interesting to say the least. I ordered a 56 in the V4 to replace a 58 in my old frame. The geometry has changed so a new 56 is closer to an old 58. I will even get a tad more stack and a tad less reach. Pretty stoked! Would love to see pics.


Check out @whatbars on IG - he has a green V4 built up with an Alfine and some knobby tires for winter commuting. Looks pretty sweet. I do like the color, definitely distinct, and would look good built with either silver or black components.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> Check out @whatbars on IG - he has a green V4 built up with an Alfine and some knobby tires for winter commuting. Looks pretty sweet. I do like the color, definitely distinct, and would look good built with either silver or black components.


Thanks for that! His photos are amazing


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Yeah, he's got some pretty legit bikes, and seems to live the lifestyle all the way for sure. I'm a bit jealous of his Crust too... gorgeous bike.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

What bottom brack standards are people using here? Looking to go subcompact crankset & not seeing anything in a GXP bb type & it looks like i may have to swap BB. FSA makes an affordable 48/32 in a BB30 standard, but I've read mix reviews about BB30. Anyone running BB386evo?


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> What bottom brack standards are people using here? Looking to go subcompact crankset & not seeing anything in a GXP bb type & it looks like i may have to swap BB. FSA makes an affordable 48/32 in a BB30 standard, but I've read mix reviews about BB30. Anyone running BB386evo?


I have always used external English thread bb on mine. Both Race Face and Sram. The frame takes an English standard thread 68mm wide. Here's one from Shimano that works with a standard 24 mm BB. The second link is a nice set for square taper.

https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-GRX-FC-RX600-2-Crankset-175mm-4630-Tooth?pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=shopping_us&pt_keyword=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIupLs16fR6AIVhKDsCh0zKgbcEAQYBiABEgIwS_D_BwEhttps://mybikeshop.com/products/fsa...MIupLs16fR6AIVhKDsCh0zKgbcEAQYDiABEgK44_D_BwE


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I read that GRX crankset wouldn't work without going GRX RD also, due to how the chain line is. A RD is not really in the budget. Do you know how that FSA compares to the Gossamer lineup? I don't see teeth specs or BB standard for that FSA you linked. Thank you though.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> I read that GRX crankset wouldn't work without going GRX RD also, due to how the chain line is. A RD is not really in the budget. Do you know how that FSA compares to the Gossamer lineup? I don't see teeth specs or BB standard for that FSA you linked. Thank you though.


I'm afraid I can't help you much here. All of my bikes are run in a 1x10 setup so I have limited experience with front multiple chain ring cranks regarding chainline


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## joshhan (Apr 1, 2011)

Funoutside said:


> What bottom brack standards are people using here? Looking to go subcompact crankset & not seeing anything in a GXP bb type & it looks like i may have to swap BB. FSA makes an affordable 48/32 in a BB30 standard, but I've read mix reviews about BB30. Anyone running BB386evo?


What is your set up right now?

If you're running 10 speed SRAM shifters, you could find a used long cage 10 speed MTB rear derailleur and throw an MTB cassette (11-36) on it for more range.

Or run CX chainrings up front like these: https://wickwerks.com/products/cyclocross-41-33-110-bcd/


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I have rival compact crankset paird with GX RD with 11-36t. Looking to go 48/32 or 46/30, but not finding anything in a GXP standard. Seeing it in the BB30 & BB386evo standard, but seeing what everyone is using here as I've heard mixed reviews about the reliability of BB30 & heard nothing much about BB386.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> I have rival compact crankset paird with GX RD with 11-36t. Looking to go 48/32 or 46/30, but not finding anything in a GXP standard. Seeing it in the BB30 & BB386evo standard, but seeing what everyone is using here as I've heard mixed reviews about the reliability of BB30 & heard nothing much about BB386.


You could get a race face ride 2x crank set or even a 3x and discard the granny ring....EDIT disregard this. I just searched and realized that they newer ride cranks are direct mount. A few years ago I bought 3 sets (still have all 3) and they had 4 bolt spiders and came with 3 rings.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I okay with going used as long as in good shape. Will take a look into the RaceFace, thank you. So far like the FSA Gossamer 48/32 as the price is good & BB30 BB is cheap to keep things under $100. Will also have to see if the Rival FD is compatible with it.

Anyone running BSA30 or BB386evo?


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## trek4fun (Feb 3, 2015)

*Monster Cross for Gravel Bike Packing - 11sp Ultegra Shift Levers with XT Derailleur*

Really fun gravel bike and amazing dirt road hill climber. Built it up to go gravel bike packing.

In keeping with the Chromoly theme, got a 1990's XT Chromoly seat post.

Drive-train highlights

Shimano Ultegra 6800 Double STI Shifter Set
Shimano XT RD-M8000 11SP Rear Derailleur SGS
Wolftooth Tanpan adapter pulley and derailleur extender
Shimano Deore XT CS-M8000 Cassette - 11-42T


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Looking sweet!


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I had a lbs tighten up the sliding dropouts(don't have a tq wrench) on my V2 frame, but I think it might need to be tightened up again? Any tips to get it tightened up without moving/loosening up again? Should I use lock tight? Thanks.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Got my new frame and swapped all my parts. This thing is a blast on gravel and pavement. Still trying to dial in the fit as my v2 was a 58 and I decided to go with a 56 this time. Glad I did! Here are several pics from different rides since the build. I have 2 ways I set this up. Single speed and a 1x10 with downtube shifter (which works fantastic by the way). Also couldn't forget my lucky Guinness cap.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

trek4fun said:


> Really fun gravel bike and amazing dirt road hill climber. Built it up to go gravel bike packing.
> 
> In keeping with the Chromoly theme, got a 1990's XT Chromoly seat post.
> 
> ...


Love the build, and that bar tape looks great!


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

iowamtb said:


> Got my new frame and swapped all my parts. This thing is a blast on gravel and pavement. Still trying to dial in the fit as my v2 was a 58 and I decided to go with a 56 this time. Glad I did! Here are several pics from different rides since the build. I have 2 ways I set this up. Single speed and a 1x10 with downtube shifter (which works fantastic by the way). Also couldn't forget my lucky Guinness cap.


Looks good! Love the Guinness cap! What is your single speed ratio?


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

SpeedyStein said:


> Looks good! Love the Guinness cap! What is your single speed ratio?


36-19 sometimes 20


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> I had a lbs tighten up the sliding dropouts(don't have a tq wrench) on my V2 frame, but I think it might need to be tightened up again? Any tips to get it tightened up without moving/loosening up again? Should I use lock tight? Thanks.


Which part is loosening on your slider? The small bolt used for alignment (in red) or the larger bolts used to actually hold your dropout in place (in green)?

If it is the small bolt, tighten the tiny nut against the frame as tightly as you can with a short 8mm wrench while holding the bolt itself in place with another wrench. I don't think there is/should be a torque value for this bolt, since it is really used to get your alignment in place before torquing the main slider bolts - kinda like a headset top cap bolt.

If it is the larger bolts, make sure your slider is in position and that there is good engagement between the slider and frame - no dirt/grime/gunk between the slider and the frame. Then tighten the heck out of it. I've never actually seen a published torque value for these bolts either, I just tighten them as tight as I dare - about as tight as I would an old nutted style axle. I think the big part is making sure the slider is accurately located in the dropout, and that there is no gunk/grime/dirt/whatever on the mating faces.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Both were tightened at a shop the last time. I checked earlier today & now I am not sure if it's the silder that needs tightening or it's the tire that's not on fully straight. ATM there is no issue, ie the 29x2 tire isn't hitting the frame; but visibly it not rolling around straight when off the ground. On the ground it a bit less visible. I'll have a shop look at it come summer, which I think will be around the time I should get a new tire as the rear almost a year in is 2/3rds of the way worn out.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> Both were tightened at a shop the last time. I checked earlier today & now I am not sure if it's the silder that needs tightening or it's the tire that's not on fully straight. ATM there is no issue, ie the 29x2 tire isn't hitting the frame; but visibly it not rolling around straight when off the ground. On the ground it a bit less visible. I'll have a shop look at it come summer, which I think will be around the time I should get a new tire as the rear almost a year in is 2/3rds of the way worn out.


I've never had problems with my bolts working loose on either Wolverine frame or my Soma b-side which has the same bolts. As far as torque value goes I don't have that but I'm guessing you could use any standard torque value for an 8 mm bolt. Myself all I have ever used is a standard metric allen wrench with about a 6 to 7 inch long shank


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I'll have a shop double check tq value as I don't have a tq wrench. I'm starting to think it might be the tires that's going bad & not rolling that straight off the ground. Thanks for your replies.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> Both were tightened at a shop the last time. I checked earlier today & now I am not sure if it's the silder that needs tightening or it's the tire that's not on fully straight. ATM there is no issue, ie the 29x2 tire isn't hitting the frame; but visibly it not rolling around straight when off the ground. On the ground it a bit less visible. I'll have a shop look at it come summer, which I think will be around the time I should get a new tire as the rear almost a year in is 2/3rds of the way worn out.


So what exactly is the issue? Is the wheel not aligned in the frame, or is the wheel wobbling side to side when you rotate it? Or is there something else going on?

There are a number of reasons why a wheel could be out of alignment with the frame - the slider could have slipped, the QR could have slipped a little and the axle isnt in the drop out all the way, or the wheel/hub itself could have a problem.

If the wheel is wobbling, that is likely either a hub or spoke issue - if it has a distinct wobble at the same spot in every rotation (you can point to a section of the wheel that is out of spec) that is a spoke tension problem. If the wheel wobbles when you push side to side against it, that is a hub bearing problem - likely your bearings either need adjustment or replacement. Or your QR just isn't tight enough.



iowamtb said:


> Myself all I have ever used is a standard metric allen wrench with about a 6 to 7 inch long shank


In the 4 years I've owned my Wolverine, I've always just done this. I've adjusted probably 7 or 8 times, and never had a problem with the sliders.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Besides the WTB Nano's, which other 2.1(since it looks like 29x2.0 tires are dying) tires fit the Wolverine? Thinking about running a fast XC tire in the rear, specifically looking at the Maxxis Crossmark II, which is priced fair. I'd be running this on (Easton)i25 XC wheels .


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## joshhan (Apr 1, 2011)

Funoutside said:


> Besides the WTB Nano's, which other 2.1(since it looks like 29x2.0 tires are dying) tires fit the Wolverine? Thinking about running a fast XC tire in the rear, specifically looking at the Maxxis Crossmark II, which is priced fair. I'd be running this on (Easton)i25 XC wheels .


Thunder Burts should fit fine.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

Good to know, but the TB are a bit out of my budget. Why the Crossmark II look interesting, but not sure if they will fit or not.


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## kyttyra (Mar 8, 2012)

The state of my v2 in the year 2020. Not much has changed since 2016.










I think this will be a keeper


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## asunder (May 22, 2008)

rmf17 said:


> View attachment 1136632
> 
> Not sure if this pic of my new build posted... but I'm loving her so far!


Nice! Old comment resurrection here, but what frame size is this?

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk


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## Crash_FLMB (Jan 21, 2004)

Great ride on the ol' Wolvie this past weekend.









Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk


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## Poodie (Sep 4, 2012)

iowamtb said:


> Anyone own a green V4 yet? I have one coming in a few weeks to replace my old V1.5 black frame. The color looks interesting to say the least. I ordered a 56 in the V4 to replace a 58 in my old frame. The geometry has changed so a new 56 is closer to an old 58. I will even get a tad more stack and a tad less reach. Pretty stoked! Would love to see pics.


Hi, I'm currently in the market for a wolverine, but am uncertain about sizing. I'm 184cm, which is midway between 6' and 6'1", and the height to my pubic bone is 89cm, although somebody measuring my "inseam" might come up with about 85cm. I think I have very normal proportions. I'm getting an equal number of people shouting 56 as there are 58. I'm keen on the 58, but I feel that, with chunkier tyres, the standover height of 84cm is going to be a bit "snug".

Having ridden both sizes, if the new 56 is bigger (and more like an old 58) then it might be the way to go. Out interest, how tall are you?

Ps: saw the pics of the bike further down the page and it looks great.


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## asunder (May 22, 2008)

There's often talk about the largest tire possible in the wolverine frame, but this time, what is the smallest tire that people are running in them? At what point does the bike sit too low to ride well?

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Poodie said:


> Hi, I'm currently in the market for a wolverine, but am uncertain about sizing. I'm 184cm, which is midway between 6' and 6'1", and the height to my pubic bone is 89cm, although somebody measuring my "inseam" might come up with about 85cm. I think I have very normal proportions. I'm getting an equal number of people shouting 56 as there are 58. I'm keen on the 58, but I feel that, with chunkier tyres, the standover height of 84cm is going to be a bit "snug".
> 
> Having ridden both sizes, if the new 56 is bigger (and more like an old 58) then it might be the way to go. Out interest, how tall are you?
> 
> Ps: saw the pics of the bike further down the page and it looks great.


I'm about 5'10.5" and ride an old model 54cm. Sometimes it feels big, sometimes it feels just right. The top tube does sit a little high for the size, so sizing up might result in near catastrophe mounting/dismounting offroad in a hurried manner. I've not bothered measuring my dimensions, but I think I have a longer torso than most, based mostly on how shirts tend to be too short for me.

Tire size will also play a big factor for this metric too, so there is that.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

asunder said:


> There's often talk about the largest tire possible in the wolverine frame, but this time, what is the smallest tire that people are running in them? At what point does the bike sit too low to ride well?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk


I ran 25x700c Conti slicks in my Wolvie for a road event a while ago - it rode very nicely with skinny tires. The route was all pavement, and I didn't have a proper road bike built up at the time, so Wolvie was tagged in. For on road, it was fine, had zero issues with pedal strikes or center of gravity. It actually surprised me how fast it felt with skinnies on pavement, very active. Ride quality was pretty good too - no complaints over the ~90 miles of the ride.

I normally ride gravel/mixed with 35c Cross Boss tires, which actually end up around 38mm on my rims. No issues there with pedal strikes off road either, but I am typically pretty careful when poking around rocks and roots on singletrack.

If I am riding in a spot that I know is pretty rough, then I will setup with 42c Resolutes, which actually measure out to 47mm on my rims. Just that extra little bit helps a lot.

Of course, all my rims/tires are 700c, so if setting up a 650b set, it will be a bit different.


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

What rims are you on a gain that a 42mm measures to 47? Any reason you went 25mm over 28mm?


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## G_Train (Jun 25, 2020)

*Broken Chainstay*

My chainstay broke right through the vent hole last week. I've got an email out to Soma to get a replacement, it has been almost a week and no response yet. This makes the 3rd picture on this thread with a break in this location. My friend's frame broke here as well a few weeks ago. My frame is 3 years and 3 months old, I really hope they don't say I'm passed the 3 year warranty and am out of luck, if they do I am buying a Crust Bombora.

The vent hole is a the part of the chainstay with the smallest diameter so on top of seeing a large amount of stress do to the tubing size the hole is a stress concentration. A very bad combination. The new Wolverine frames do not show vent holes in this location.


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## G_Train (Jun 25, 2020)

@iowamtb

Looking at the geometry changes they made the head tube longer and sloped the top tube more which means less spacers are needed to raise the bar up. This is asethietics over anything else. I have a 56cm v2.0 and am thinking of getting a 58cm to replace it with as I am thinking more frame = more absorbing of bumps and more room to fit stuff on the frame. It would mean less exposed seatpost though, do you notice a difference between the different sizes?

Edit: I hit reply to iowamtb instead of reply with quote, oops.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

Funoutside said:


> What rims are you on a gain that a 42mm measures to 47? Any reason you went 25mm over 28mm?


Sorry for the delay response, been taking a break from bikes for a bit.

I am on WTB i23s. Those tires tend to measure a little big on most rims, not specifically my combo.

I went 25mm because I had them already. If I was buying a set, I would have gone 28mm all day, or maybe 30/32mm tubeless. 25mm was fine though, ride felt pretty good. This frame is springy enough that even narrower tires feel pretty OK.


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## SpeedyStein (Aug 2, 2014)

G_Train said:


> My chainstay broke right through the vent hole last week. I've got an email out to Soma to get a replacement, it has been almost a week and no response yet. This makes the 3rd picture on this thread with a break in this location. My friend's frame broke here as well a few weeks ago. My frame is 3 years and 3 months old, I really hope they don't say I'm passed the 3 year warranty and am out of luck, if they do I am buying a Crust Bombora.
> 
> The vent hole is a the part of the chainstay with the smallest diameter so on top of seeing a large amount of stress do to the tubing size the hole is a stress concentration. A very bad combination. The new Wolverine frames do not show vent holes in this location.


Oh no! That is a bummer! Hopefully SOMA plays ball and hooks you up with a new frame. Would you be looking at a Type A or B? Side note - love what I'm seeing from Crust, can't go wrong there. I also really like Black Mountain Cycles, would make for a good follow-up to the Wolverine too.

Good luck with SOMA!


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

My Wolverine was stolen last month from a lbs(was in for new bar tape). Insurance was generous & gave me the new value of my build. I looked hard at the Gorilla Monsoon as it's an interesting option. I ultimately went with Otso Waheela S, which has a geo similar to the Wolverine v2.1 with an adjustable chain stay. I just got it today setup at the M 430mm chainstay. I had my Wolverine closer to 438 so I can fit those sweet 29x2.0 tires. Will be running smaller 29er tires to try out a shorter chainstay, which I always wanted to try on my Wolverine. 
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5a32d2f45592ef00145cdd71,5c1195a38ee6660016f49349


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

Is anyone running Soma Cazadero 50mm tires on a Wolvie? Soma's website they should fit if used on a 18mm internal width rim, which is too narrow for such tire, IMO. How tight is the chainstay clearance? How far back do you have to put the sliders? I'm 210lbs, I'd like to keep them as far forward if possible to avoid frame crack issues.

What are you other tire suggestions for all-rounder tire in 700x47-50mm range? Teravail Cannonball any good?


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I had Conit RaceKing 29x2.0 in the rear of Wolverine with Kenda Karama Sports(was on the rear until they wore out) in the front on i25mm rims I had enough clearance that I think an oversized 2.0 or even 2.1 tire might fit. I am in costal desert area where mud is not a thing here. Really liked how the Conti's preformed as a rear tire, even on the road.


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## Crash_FLMB (Jan 21, 2004)

I haven't ridden anything larger than a 45 but for my riding area (desert trails, gravel, pavement) the WTB Resolutes were pretty good. I'm currently running smaller 40's. The Conti Terra Trail up front and the Bontrager GR2 in the rear. So far, I like this set up better for my riding. If I still lived in the PNW, I'd want something a little more conditioned to mud. 

That said, I'm really interested in the Soma's. They look like a nice tire in 'most' conditions.


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## grubetown (Sep 22, 2013)

I have had good luck with WTB Byways on my Fog Cutter and have heard the Venture is like a Byway with more traction.


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## mdrange (Aug 29, 2020)

*Wolverine with the Black Mountain Cycles MCD fork?*

Hi all,

Thanks everyone for weighing in on this informative thread! I'm building up a current gen Wolverine and thinking about pairing it with the Black Mountain Cycles MCD disc fork, which sports mounts for a rando rack + lowriders, will clear 2.25" tires AND has 55mm of rake! I don't know of anything else on the market that checks all those boxes.

So, has anyone else tried this combo?

I would simply buy the MCD frameset, as I like what Mike is doing up in Pt. Reyes. The issue is that the rear of the frame won't clear the 2.1" Thunder Burts I want to run, which for me is a dealbreaker.

This build will be an upgrade from my old Surly Cross-Check, which I rode all over and built up about nine different ways. Love the bike, but it has a few shortcomings -- short wheelbase isn't the most stable, max tire size of 45mm was too limiting for the Bay Area singletrack/rough rutted fire roads I ride, and rim brakes not allowing me to get the full width on most tires -- that led me to this.

Thanks, 
Matt


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## Poodie (Sep 4, 2012)

I spent ages deliberating over the size of wolverine to buy, especially since people who are 6foot/184cm (as I am) seem to sit on the cusp of a size 56 and size 58. I spent a lot of time on this forum trying to get a feel for what other people my height were riding.

Well now that my bike is built up, let me say unequivocally that I'm very glad I bought a 58. I have set the bike up for comfort, and this would not have been possible on a 56 I don't think. What I mean by that is that I have a relatively high stack. These are the details:
-80mm stem
-zero offset seatpost
-1.5" of stack

That said, I could change all of those things to get into a more racey position and the bike wouldn't feel too big. I do have a high inseam (89cm) and with 38mm tyres the standover height is pretty "snug".

Here it is:


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Poodie said:


> I spent ages deliberating over the size of wolverine to buy, especially since people who are 6foot/184cm (as I am) seem to sit on the cusp of a size 56 and size 58. I spent a lot of time on this forum trying to get a feel for what other people my height were riding.
> 
> Well now that my bike is built up, let me say unequivocally that I'm very glad I bought a 58. I have set the bike up for comfort, and this would not have been possible on a 56 I don't think. What I mean by that is that I have a relatively high stack. These are the details:
> -80mm stem
> ...


Whatever floats your boat. ? I am 6' tall with 34" inseam and went from an older version 2 size 58 to a new type b in 56.. Best thing I have done


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## Poodie (Sep 4, 2012)

iowamtb said:


> Whatever floats your boat.  I am 6' tall with 34" inseam and went from an older version 2 size 58 to a new type b in 56.. Best thing I have done


Yes I remember reading a few of your posts! We had the same height, inseam and issue (lower back pain). It's part of why I deliberated for so long. But I couldn't be happier with my 58 so all's well that ends well. The only downside is that just looking at my 56 road bike makes my back hurt now.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

Poodie said:


> Yes I remember reading a few of your posts! We had the same height, inseam and issue (lower back pain). It's part of why I deliberated for so long. But I couldn't be happier with my 58 so all's well that ends well. The only downside is that just looking at my 56 road bike makes my back hurt now.


👍 Right on


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## Remo13 (Nov 4, 2020)

*What's your opinion on my preferred Wolverine build?*

Hi everyone,

I'm planning on buying a Wolverine frame and wanted to check if the following set up makes sense (first time assembling a bike myself). I'm 1.74m (5.7ft), inseam approx. 82.5cm (32.5 inches), 65kg (140 pounds) and that's what I'd use the bike for mainly:


Commuting a couple of times a week, 20km/12miles each way, (inter-)city, all asphalt, all flat (Belgium), all year. The faster and maintenance-free, the better. 
Bike touring once or twice a year for 1-4 weeks, incl. camping gear etc. Mainly asphalt, including hills/mountains. Every once in a while an offroad bike touring trip. 

And here is my preferred setup so far:


Soma Wolverine frame: should I go for 50 or 52cm (see measurements above)? I'll use the bike with a drop bar and 700C wheels. If anyone has such a frame for sale, let me know! 
Standard matching steel fork 
Rohloff with Gebla Rohbox 
Gates carbon belt drive 
SRAM Rival22 brake-shifting levers 
TRP Spyre mechanical disc brakes 
Salsa Cowbell or Cowchipper drop bar 
700C wheels 
Ryde Andra or Rival rim Rohloff version, 17mm or 19mm (which size?), 36 spokes 
+- 40mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres for both commuting and touring (or would you rather go for two sets of tyres (e.g. 32mm for touring and 42+ for touring)? 
Tubus Logo Classic rear rack. Can you fit this on a disc bike such as the Wolverine? I'd prefer the Logo rather than the Disco one as the latter doesn't have two levels (one to put a tent on and separate rails for the panniers). 
SKS Bluemels, Longboard or P50 fenders/mudguards. Alternatively Mart Primoplastics mudguards (55mm) or Kinesis Fend Off mudguards wide (50mm) 
DMR V12 flat pedals or Shimano M324 hybrid pedals 
ff there is some money left: Schmidt SON Dynamo Hubs with SON Edelux II or Busch & Muller IQ-XS light 

Looking forward to your (honest) feedback!

Cheers,
Remo


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## antantant (Jul 31, 2019)

Hi,
I recently built up a Wolverine commuter as well, slower then expected though and not much used since I am still in home office since March due to the pandemic. I use instead of a Rohloff an Alfine 11 Di2 with road shifters, which for now works well. This is the only Shimano way to use Alfine with road shifters... Since Alfine Di2 on the Wolverine does not work with Gates (unless coldsetting the frame), I use a chain. People here in Montreal winters had anyways mixed experiences with Gates belt drives, but this shouldn't apply to Belgium.

Just some thoughts:
- I would use the wider rims. Rims with an inner width of 19mm are quite flexible in the range the Wolverine can use, Schwalbe says from 28mm to 62mm (https://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/tire_dimensions , last tab). I use Pacenti Brevet 700, which has an internal width of 19.5mm. For loaded touring these might be too light though.
- I had on my other bike 28mm tyres, on the Wolverine Panaracer Gravelking (slick version) 38mm. I like them! They should be quite a bit lighter then the Marathon Plus and I didn't had much flats with the 28mm version. They do come now also in a more puncture proof version. So to me, the Marathon Plus would be too much, but of course it depends what you want. And changing a tyre later isn't a big deal. I assume you don't need a winter tyre in Belgium, I plan to use the 45Nrth Gravdal...
- I went with Shimano hydraulic brakes, simply because the price difference for Shimano Di2 mechanical vs. hydraulic was not much (or I just found good deals). Setting up the hydraulic was easy. But since you plan to go the Rohloff/Gebla way, I guess mechanical breaks are what fits. Just some ideas what came up when I searched (no experience from me), beside the Spyre which I had also on the list: TRP HY/RD or Yokozuna Motoko, both cable actuated hydraulics.
- I plan to install Honjo H50 fenders. This might be quite some work, but they'll look great.
- Pedals: I went with Shimano PD-T8000, but still have to figure out if I like clipless or not.

Other random things:
- I went with a Cane Creek 40 headset (installed by the bike shop, they built also the wheels)
- Front hub: Hope RS4
- Saddle: I was thinking of a Brooks Cambium, but finally went with a Fabric Scoop. Have a Brooks Flyer on my old bike but wanted something more weatherproof.
- I hope my current rack, a Tubus Fly, will fit, otherwise I have to check. Let me know which you finally use!
- I am a bit taller then you and went with the 56cm version. Probably 58cm would have been a better fit, but it was sold out (v3) and I got the 56cm for a good price. For this reason, I have quite some high stack and a long stem, but: With 700x38mm tyres, the standover height is quite tight for me! Not sure if this is different on the newer versions and might depend a bit on your body shape (I am long upper body, shorter legs). So, I think with fatter tyres I should probably have gone one frame size up but to 650B wheels instead of 700C, to have a comfortable standover. I guess. Not sure. It works for now. And of course there are still more tyres and rims in 700C then 650B, but all the parts I use currently would have existed in both sizes.


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## david.p (Apr 11, 2011)

*Wolverine v4.0 Type A*

I've finished my Wolverine v4.0 Type A build and gotten a few first rides in. I was looking for an all-road bike that felt at home on paved and dirt roads and could handle some single track as well. I also wanted to run single speed with the option of 1x, and wanted clearance for 650bx48 with fenders. And I wanted to make use of a 15x100, 12x142 wheelset that had been taken of another bike.

The Wolverine looked to hit all my checkboxes and the test rides have shown it to be just what I was looking for. The 650bx48 wheels allow the sliders to be at the shortest position and the bike feels very quick on road with sharp handling. For comparison I have a Bianchi Volpe with 700x38/40 tires and wanted a similar feel with a bit more tire volume.

Looking forward to some longer rides stringing together back roads, conservation land trails, and paved and unpaved rail trails.

Pics / build:

















Soma Wolverine v4.0 Type A, size 58
Fyxation Sparta All-road fork, 15mm thru-axle
Cane Creek 40 headset
Easton stem, 90mm -7deg
Salsa Cowchipper, 46cm
Thomson setback post
WTB Silverado Pro saddle
Easton Haven 27.5 wheelset (21mm internal), 12x142 / 15x100
Panaracer Pari-Moto 650x48 rear, Rene Herse Juniper Ridge 650x48 front (both tubeless)
TRP Spyre brakes, TRP 160mm rotors
TRP RRL levers
Wheels Manufacturing BSA 30mm bottom bracket
Easton EA90 cranks
Wolftooth 42t cinch chainring
Absolute Black 18t cog


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## dots (Jan 6, 2021)

I've finally got my Wolverine v3 built up and running with Rohloff gearing. I put on the 40c Nanos I had lying around as I'm yet to decide on what I'll go for long term, probably something 47c as I want to run it with fenders (and to be able to attach my rear dynamo light to), does anyone have any tyre/fender recommendations? After a general all-round tyre for mostly road but with occasional off-road use too.

These are the fenders I was looking at (in 60mm) but worried they might not fit. Anyone have any experience of running 47c tyres + fenders on their Wolverine?






Gilles Berthoud 700c Stainless Steel Mudguards


These mudguards use the standard fitting to frames/forks with mudguard eyelets. Rear guard same as short version. Front guard 140mm longer than short version. Please note these mudguards are now coming pre drilled. Bracket for rear brake bridge fitting NOT included. Available separatley...




www.sjscycles.co.uk





Also surprised to read so many tall people in this thread going for 58 or 60cm Wolverines! I'm a smidge over 6'3" and went for the 62cm without even really thinking about it. I moved over from an XL Genesis Tour de Fer which always felt a little small. Haven't done any serious miles on the Wolverine yet but it feels good so far.


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## antantant (Jul 31, 2019)

dots said:


> These are the fenders I was looking at (in 60mm) but worried they might not fit. Anyone have any experience of running 47c tyres + fenders on their Wolverine?


Soma says with fenders the max. width are 45mm tyres, for this reason I went with the Honjo H50 (Honjo H50 Fender Set ), which is probably similar to the 50cm option of your fender, and allows officially up to 41mm tyres, probably a bit more is fine too. I still have to install them, and currently using Panaracer Gravelking (slick) 38mm...

When just holding my fenders on the bike (v3 with lugged fork), I don't think a much wider fender would fit without a bit bending or trimming. But I guess if you trim a bit at the chain stay etc., it might work.


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## david.p (Apr 11, 2011)

I'm about to add 58mm fenders (Velo Orange) to my Wolverine, that is running 650x48mm tires.

I've found the combination of a slick rear (Pari-Moto) and knobby front (Rene Herse Juniper Ridge) to work very well. The RH knobbies are fantastic on pavement and have been useful in mud and snow. For 700c, a Gravel King rear tire in slick or semi-slick could work well for you (there are also knobbier versions of the Gravel King).

I'm just under 6' on a 58 - you can see by my seatpost that it's more of a French fit than some like, but I'm very comfortable. Another factor is the gravel bars having a short reach to the hoods compared to many road bars.


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## mdrange (Aug 29, 2020)

dots said:


> I've finally got my Wolverine v3 built up and running with Rohloff gearing. I put on the 40c Nanos I had lying around as I'm yet to decide on what I'll go for long term, probably something 47c as I want to run it with fenders (and to be able to attach my rear dynamo light to), does anyone have any tyre/fender recommendations? After a general all-round tyre for mostly road but with occasional off-road use too.
> 
> These are the fenders I was looking at (in 60mm) but worried they might not fit. Anyone have any experience of running 47c tyres + fenders on their Wolverine?
> 
> ...


Thanks for the update! Funny timing as I actually _just_ got my Wolverine wheels built up yesterday! Good news: on 26mm internal rims, the Schwalbe Thunder Burt (the newest Addix version, in the red compound) 2.1" 29er tire fits in the frame just fine! I slid the dropouts almost exactly halfway back and have just enough clearance on either side behind the bottom bracket. If anyone's curious about the actual width of the tire I can try to measure that once I get batteries for my digital caliper. But the bottom line is: we can rejoice in running true XC rubber on the Wolverine!

PS: I built mine up with the Black Mountain Cycles MCD fork. It's an awesome looking piece of steel and easily clears the Thunder Burt in the 2.25" up front. Heck, you could probably run a 2.35 or even 2.4" tire on this fork if you wanted! I reckon the combo I went with should be just about perfect on much of the singletrack and fire road type trails here in the Bay Area. In my experience, "gravel" tires in the 45mm ish range are severely lacking here. I suspect in many parts of the country, where there are more extensive networks of gravel roads, this width tire would be perfectly fine. But here you need some bigger meats to properly underbike mountain bike trails.

Ride it out,


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## david.p (Apr 11, 2011)

650x58 fenders on the Wolverine










Rear fender fits between chainstays and ends up in the area where the stays are indented so they don't make contact. 700c fenders this size would need to be positioned to end at the chainstay rather than go between them, which isn't a huge deal.

Plenty of room at the seat stay bridge.


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

Hi,
Does anyone have 142mm x 12mm TA inserts they want to sell?
I just bought a Version 4.0 frame. : )
thanks!


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## Fa11en.Universe (Feb 8, 2021)

Hello everybody. I've manged find and buy new Soma Wolvorine's 3.0 frame in 54 size (My height - 183cm). What a great piece of bike's art! Love it already. I've built it on Alfine 11 hub with Gates Carbon Drive belt and dynamo SP hub.
I'm riding on 700c WTB Riddler 45 which are actually 45mm on my AlexRims 19c. (Planing to go tubeless in near future with DT Swiss R500)
I've got rear 24T Gates cog and 46T front. With 115T belt, right like Soma's web-site recommended. Center distance - 438.3 and Alfine's speed ratio 1.92. Great for pavements and moderate uphills.
Here are some photos.


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

Has anyone tried fitting Velo-Orange Fluted 63mm 700c fenders into the Wolverine? Mine is a v3.0 with lugged fork. The rear fender's section that mounts to the chainstay bridge has a sort of "tongue" to allow it to fit into more bikes, so that shouldn't be a problem. I'm more worried about seatstay and fork clearance.


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

Answering my own question - yes, 63mm fenders from Velo-Orange fit the Wolverine without issues.








Soma Wolverine + VO Fluted 63mm Fenders


9 new items added to shared album




photos.app.goo.gl


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## Fa11en.Universe (Feb 8, 2021)

Fa11en.Universe said:


> Hello everybody. I've manged find and buy new Soma Wolvorine's 3.0 frame in 54 size (My height - 183cm). What a great piece of bike's art! Love it already. I've built it on Alfine 11 hub with Gates Carbon Drive belt and dynamo SP hub.
> I'm riding on 700c WTB Riddler 45 which are actually 45mm on my AlexRims 19c. (Planing to go tubeless in near future with DT Swiss R500)
> I've got rear 24T Gates cog and 46T front. With 115T belt, right like Soma's web-site recommended. Center distance - 438.3 and Alfine's speed ratio 1.92. Great for pavements and moderate uphills.
> Here are some photos.


Alright, i've got some update of my Wolverine. Finally, set up my supernova lights from previous bike using noname handlebar mount. Looks and works nice. Also, I've put new Panaracer Gravelking SS 700x43 tubeless tires and DT Swiss R500 rims, added some sealant, and it's ready to go. Now I'm totally satisfying with my Wolverine. Seems like it done and ready for adventure. Maybe in the future I'll set up SKS mudguards and apply frame protective film.


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## joshhan (Apr 1, 2011)

Fa11en.Universe said:


> Alright, i've got some update of my Wolverine. Finally, set up my supernova lights from previous bike using noname handlebar mount. Looks and works nice. Also, I've put new Panaracer Gravelking SS 700x43 tubeless tires and DT Swiss R500 rims, added some sealant, and it's ready to go. Now I'm totally satisfying with my Wolverine. Seems like it done and ready for adventure. Maybe in the future I'll set up SKS mudguards and apply frame protective film.


That is a great looking setup! Congrats!


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## Heritiana (Apr 6, 2021)

I need your help for choosing the right frame size for my wolverine V4 drop bar bike. I'm 173cm (5'8") with a 77.5cm (30.5") inseam. I hesitate to choose between a 46 cm (because of my short inseam lenght), 50 cm and 52 cm.
Another question, what to choose between 650B and 700C? By choosing 700C, I'm afraid to having toe overlap.


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## joshhan (Apr 1, 2011)

Heritiana said:


> I need your help for choosing the right frame size for my wolverine V4 drop bar bike. I'm 173cm (5'8") with a 77.5cm (30.5") inseam. I hesitate to choose between a 46 cm (because of my short inseam lenght), 50 cm and 52 cm.
> Another question, what to choose between 650B and 700C? By choosing 700C, I'm afraid to having toe overlap.











Did you see the chart? I guess 50 or 52 would be your best bet depending on how you want ride the bike. More as an off-road or on-road thing.


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## Heritiana (Apr 6, 2021)

Thanks @joshhan,

I think 50 cm will be the best choice for me. The standover height of the 52 cm is little high. And what about the toe overlap with the 700c on a 50cm bike? Does someone had this kind of problem?


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## Fa11en.Universe (Feb 8, 2021)

Heritiana said:


> Thanks @joshhan,
> 
> I think 50 cm will be the best choice for me. The standover height of the 52 cm is little high. And what about the toe overlap with the 700c on a 50cm bike? Does someone had this kind of problem?


Hey, could you please tell me, where you're found Soma Wolverine in 50 size? It's literally out of stock everywhere.


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## Heritiana (Apr 6, 2021)

Fa11en.Universe said:


> Hey, could you please tell me, where you're found Soma Wolverine in 50 size? It's literally out of stock everywhere.


I looked at my LBS and there was 1 left in his shop. I think i'm very lucky.

Edit : After some search, check this : Soma Wolverine v4.0 Frameset - Swish Cycles


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## tolembs (Apr 9, 2021)

Fa11en.Universe said:


> Hey, could you please tell me, where you're found Soma Wolverine in 50 size? It's literally out of stock everywhere.


I got the sz 50 but I bought it wayyyy back 2020. I was supposed to get the 52 but it ran out around Sept 2020 on Soma's website.


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## Heritiana (Apr 6, 2021)

tolembs said:


> I got the sz 50 but I bought it wayyyy back 2020. I was supposed to get the 52 but it ran out around Sept 2020 on Soma's website.


And you put a 650B or a 700C wheel on your bike?


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## tolembs (Apr 9, 2021)

Heritiana said:


> Thanks @joshhan,
> 
> I think 50 cm will be the best choice for me. The standover height of the 52 cm is little high. And what about the toe overlap with the 700c on a 50cm bike? Does someone had this kind of problem?


My frame arrived the other day, I'm also 5'8. I would say if you have a short inseam this would fit you. On first glance, 50 st looked really small, so much that I think the 52 might've been better. Then I realized the top tube is pretty lengthy at 54. I'm usually comfortable with 54st & tt on road frames so I can make this work for me with adjustments.

I hope you went for the 50 instead of the 46. I've read on Soma's page the 46 can only use 650b's or are recommended to use 650b.

Anyways, here's said frame for reference. Wheels attached are 700cx35's


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## Funoutside (Jul 17, 2019)

I have a v2 in a 52 size & I'm 5ft 8 1/2 with an inseam a hair over 31. The size worked for me.


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## Fa11en.Universe (Feb 8, 2021)

Hey, just some new photos of my Wolverine v 3.0


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## tannogotchi (Jun 7, 2021)

Hi All!

I'm building up a 54cm V-4.0 Type B frame (I think that I purchased the last one in stock on the entire planet) with a matching thru-axle straight fork. I'm going to run Paul Klampers for the brakes, and wanted to know if the fork will accommodate 180mm rotors? Based on my research in this discussion it seems like this is possible with an adapter. And will run a 160mm rotor in the back. If it has any impact, I'm going to also pair them with these 650b wheels, with some 27.5 x 1.9 Panaracer Gravelking SS tires.

Does anyone have first hand experience running 180mm rotors on their thru-axle fork? I'll see if I can post some pictures of my build later in the month after I get it all set up. Appreciate any insights that you may all have.


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## david.p (Apr 11, 2011)

Looks like the Soma Unicrown TA fork has an IS mount, so you would need a matching IS to Post adapter for whichever size rotor you want to use.


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## Crash_FLMB (Jan 21, 2004)

tannogotchi said:


> Hi All!
> 
> I'm building up a 54cm V-4.0 Type B frame (I think that I purchased the last one in stock on the entire planet) with a matching thru-axle straight fork. I'm going to run Paul Klampers for the brakes, and wanted to know if the fork will accommodate 180mm rotors? Based on my research in this discussion it seems like this is possible with an adapter. And will run a 160mm rotor in the back. If it has any impact, I'm going to also pair them with these 650b wheels, with some 27.5 x 1.9 Panaracer Gravelking SS tires.
> 
> Does anyone have first hand experience running 180mm rotors on their thru-axle fork? I'll see if I can post some pictures of my build later in the month after I get it all set up. Appreciate any insights that you may all have.


I've been on the a V3 Wolvie for 2 years now. I have the carbon fork but I run a QR, no thru-axle, and have been running a 180mm the entire time with no issues. I also run the bigger 700 wheels. I really like the bike but the ride I just did had lots of climbing and it made me realize I need to upgrade my drivetrain.


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## tannogotchi (Jun 7, 2021)

david.p said:


> Looks like the Soma Unicrown TA fork has an IS mount, so you would need a matching IS to Post adapter for whichever size rotor you want to use.


Thanks for the advice! I went and purchased two 20mm IS to post disc brake adapters which will give allow me to use 180/front 160/rear rotors.


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## tannogotchi (Jun 7, 2021)

Crash_FLMB said:


> I've been on the a V3 Wolvie for 2 years now. I have the carbon fork but I run a QR, no thru-axle, and have been running a 180mm the entire time with no issues. I also run the bigger 700 wheels. I really like the bike but the ride I just did had lots of climbing and it made me realize I need to upgrade my drivetrain.


Yeah, looks like this is definitely fine. I talked to a few Soma dealers and they confirmed that it was okay.

I also emailed Soma yesterday and all of their response, while laconic said it was fine:



> The fork is made for 160mm rotors but 160mm/180mm adapters are widely available.





> You need ISO Mount Fork 160mm to Post Mount Caliper w 180mm rotor


So as far as their straight leg thru-axle fork goes, running 180mm rotors is fine. You just need a 20mm IS to post adapter.


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## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

As you can see she evolved from a 1X to a 1x10. 
I built the wheels tubeless w/ Velo Orange Voyager rims (22mm ID) and 
All-City Go-Devil hubs. 
Maxxis Rambler tires 45mm rear / 50mm front
Fork is the Ritchey Adventure.


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## Crash_FLMB (Jan 21, 2004)

Lots of changes to my Wolvie since I originally posted her. Upgraded to XT cranks, Microshift Avent X drivetrain, and had it powder coated to Sounders green. I'm still waiting on my buddy to make me some dark blue Soma and Wolverine decals.























Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

the Wolverine with Continental Race Kings 29x2.0". Around 5mm clearance at the chainstays with sliders 2/3 back. Supple and confident ride.


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## iowamtb (May 17, 2014)

I put Ritchey Beacon bars on my Wolvie this winter. Only done 2 trainer sessions so far. Really haven't gotten a chance yet to go do a long ride. Still fiddling with them. Changed the angles a few times. Can't really say yet if I'll keep them or go back to my cowbells yet. I will say that the low drop is pretty awesome. This bike runs a lot of single speed but currently I've got a vintage down tube shifter shifting a SRAM x7 mtb derailleur. Last Pic is older in and bike has cowbells in that pic


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## boostin (Apr 21, 2008)

Has anyone tried running mixed wheels on. Wolverine? I've got a 60cm that I'm considering building up with a 27.5r wheel on 2.0 tire with a 700c or 29 up front with a 2.1.

Is it gonna jack up everything? Anyone done something similar?


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## Fa11en.Universe (Feb 8, 2021)




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## boostin (Apr 21, 2008)

Best gravel/rail trail bike ever


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## buffet (Oct 7, 2018)

Anyone built a Soma Jawbone yet?


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