# I need a bike from sports authority - which one?



## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

http://www.sportsauthority.com/fami...892903&categoryId=2141953&page=1&pageBucket=0

OK, I need to pick one of these bikes because I have a 25% off coupon. I just started riding again on this old Huffy 21 speed (its at least 15 years old) but it is showing its age and I just want a bike of my own.

I stick to paved trails but if i see some gator in a mudpit I want to be able to ride over and get a closer look (and ride back out quickly!)

Oh, by the way, if you promise not to tell me to go to the LBS you can use the coupon too:

http://www.slickdeals.net/?pno=7820&lno=2&afsrc=1

I only have $300 so i can get one priced up to $400 with the coupon. I'm not looking for the best bike just the most bang for the buck.


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## Instigator (May 10, 2006)

my first real mountain bike was from sports authority, it was the diamondback topanga Comp. it was a good bike and around the 300-400 range if i remember correctly. i weigh 265 pounds and that thing held me well (other than rims).


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## fred3 (Jan 12, 2004)

Okay I won't tell you not to waste your money (hard earned or not), but at least have it checked over before you go out and ride. 

You'll get twice the bike at a real bike shop, but hey being cheap isn't very popular.


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## Dave B (Jan 13, 2004)

1st-go for a hardtail, a full suspension at those prices will be nothing but a pogo stick with sloppy (at best) pivots. 2nd--see what the cost will be after your discount, and after you add on what it will cost a good legit bike shop to go over it for you. 3rd-compare cost of #2 and see what your local shop has close to that price-you'll get better aftermarket service and the correct set-up to start with does not cost extra. Let them know you are shopping and what you have to spend. You don't have to buy from your LBS, but at least compare-might not be as much of a difference as you think.


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## -=*TWECO*=- (Jun 29, 2006)

I say save up a little more like $400-$500 and get a bike from your lbs Trek 4300 only $450 
Specialized hardrock sport disc also around $450. If you can't save any more money you can still get Trek 3900 $320, or Gary Fisher capitola also around $320 Just my 2 cents


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## Neen (Sep 27, 2004)

My first "real" mtn bike was a Trek hardtail and it wasn't any more than $450. All the horror stories I've heard about low end bikes, I'd spend a little bit more and get something you know will last.


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

thanks for the tips, i understand i could always get something better, but im dead set on something cheap. the coupon is the motivation. i have been mostly scared out of a full suspension at this price.... so that narrows it down. so out of the hard tails on the website, anyone know anything about the specific models/components? they seem to mostly have "Jeep" brand, but im sure you guys know what they are really made of. the GMC one looks like a tank, but i dont know if that's a good thing.


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## rzozaya1969 (Nov 28, 2004)

drinklime said:


> thanks for the tips, i understand i could always get something better, but im dead set on something cheap. the coupon is the motivation. i have been mostly scared out of a full suspension at this price.... so that narrows it down. so out of the hard tails on the website, anyone know anything about the specific models/components? they seem to mostly have "Jeep" brand, but im sure you guys know what they are really made of. the GMC one looks like a tank, but i dont know if that's a good thing.


I agree with Dave. At least go to a LBS and see what they have for a low price. You might be surprised that the differences are not that much. If you get a lousy bike, it's very likely you won't like it and because of it, you won't use it.

I think that the 'Jeep' and 'Gmc' are made by 'x' company and rebranded, don't look at them.

Use your coupon for a helmet and hydration pack. I doesn't need to be 'Camelback' brand. There are some good ones for around 30 to 50 bucks.

Ibex also has some nice bikes. The Alpine 350 is around $299 and a nice starter bike. Talk with DogonFR in this forums and he might help you out.

http://www.ibexbikes.com/Bikes/ALP-350-Details.html

GT has the Avalanche 3.0, Schwinn has the Mesa model, Trek has some nice HT, Specialized should also offer some nice ones.


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## Jwiffle (Jan 26, 2004)

sorry, on a mountain bike forum, you'll hear over and again what you already have read and specifically asked not to hear: go to an lbs. For what it's worth, I am going to add, Go to the lbs, it will be cheaper AND better. How, since you have a coupon, you may ask? Service, my dear fellow. At an LBS you will receive at least a year of free adjustments (many do 2 or more years). You will need these adjustments on your brand new bike from Sports Authority. These adjustments run from $35-50. So make sure you add that price to your bike from Sports Authority. And add that price again for next year. And the year after. By buying at an LBS, you have saved yourself $75-150. Not to mention they will fit you on a properly sized bike that has better components than the Sports Authority bikes. The lbs will also give you tips and recommendations on riding that you won't find at Sports Authority. Spend $300 on a bike at your LBS, you won't regret it. Even a Giant Boulder SE or Rincon is worlds better than any "Jeep" bike.

As rzozaya said, use your coupon at Sports Authority on the extras: hydration pack, pump, tools, water bottles, tubes, even a helmet (you might find a nicer fitting helmet at your lbs, but safety-wise, the helmets at Sports Authority will keep you just as safe).


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

well... like i said i dont know where we bought the bike we have now, but its at least 15 years old, its a huffy, and it still goes. its never been professionally adjusted. i sprayed wd-40 on it a couple of times. im not riding across vast tundra, so i figure one of these bikes will last me a few years.

i would just like to know if anyone knows anything about the specific models that the sports authority sells. i thought someone might know.

i understand a bike from an lbs is better, but thats not where i am asking about. thanks anyway.


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## Dwight Moody (Jan 10, 2004)

drinklime said:


> http://www.sportsauthority.com/fami...892903&categoryId=2141953&page=1&pageBucket=0.


That website provides almost no information. A "Roxshox fork" might be a great deal or a great ripoff, depending on the model.

If you're sticking to pavement, just get the rigid bike. It's the cheapest, and low end suspension just kind of sucks. Mountain bikes were all rigid at first, I rode rigid for years. It's kind of sad it's almost impossible to find a decent rigid bike anymore.


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

would rigid be better than a cheap hardtail? from what i read some of these have mozo 
m30(I THINK, DONT SUE ME) in front.


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## Eric Hoefer (Jan 19, 2004)

If youre set on using your coupon here this actually doesnt look too terrible:

http://www.sportsauthority.com/prod...2141953&page=1&pageBucket=0&parentPage=family

Its still entry level but for the kind of riding your doing it should suffice. Also take the money you save on it and bring it to an LBS to have it properly adjusted and fit to you.


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

hey i found specs for the components on the gmc dual suspension model. does anyone know what is wrong with any of these specific components?

Frame: 26-inch full suspension aluminum MTB frame 
Fork: Zoom CH-386 suspension fork 65mm travel 
Shocks: Kind Shock adjustable 650 pounds 
Chain: KMC Z 51 
Crankset: Alloy ISA 335P 28x38x48 L170mm 
Front Derailleur: Falcon MF 31 T 
Rear Derailleur: Shimano RD-TZ30GS SIS 7SPD 
Shifters: Microshift TS-50 ADII index L3/R7 
Brake Levers: GP 30 AP aluminum 
Brakes: LCHI DSK-320 disk brake 160mm 
Rims: Alloy black 26-inch X1.5 
Tires: Kenda black with yellow band 700X25C 
Stem: A-head TDS63K-8 EXT:100mm 15D 
Handlebar: HL-MTB 153 W: 600mm R:30mm 
Sadle: Velo black padded 
Seat Post: Alloy micro adjust 27.2 X 300mm with quick-release


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## Call_me_Clyde (Oct 27, 2004)

*Component spec critique*



drinklime said:


> hey i found specs for the components on the gmc dual suspension model. does anyone know what is wrong with any of these specific components?
> 
> Frame: 26-inch full suspension aluminum MTB frame
> Fork: Zoom CH-386 suspension fork 65mm travel
> ...


Where to start?

Fork and shock-Zoom and Kind. Both garbage
Chain--at least it's KMC
Cranks-no name brand. Guaranteed junk
Derailleurs-Falcon?? Shimano low end r/d.
Shifters-again, generic junk
Brakes and levers. LiChi discs and no name levers-more junk.
Rims-no name crapshoot
Tires-Kenda! We got a potentail winner here.
Handlebar-generic works for me in this instance
Saddle-Velo makes a nice saddle. This might be decent
Seat post-again, generic may not be bad.

All in all, this bike is department store junk. No other way to put it. Stay away.

Bob


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## NightFlight (Jul 21, 2006)

Funny how I found this, I am in the EXACT same boat with the same coupon. I have a Specialized Hardrock FS that is wayyyyyy too small for me. It's from when I was 12  Well I am 23 now and about a foot or more taller.... 

Anyway, I like the Mongoose Alta as well. It might be junk but it would probably be a good beginners bike right? I don't want to spend much money and I know that an LBS bike is much better and all the dept store bike bashing is getting to me. I've been researching Trek 4100, Specialized HardRock Sport, and Giant Rincon. Some of these bikes might be out of my pricerange but I have figured I would need a tuneup on the Sports Authority bike, which would put it close to the real bikes. 

Please give me some feedback! 

First post here, looking forward to many more!!!


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

thanks clyde, that's the kind of info i was looking for :thumbsup:


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## Call_me_Clyde (Oct 27, 2004)

*You're welcome*



drinklime said:


> thanks clyde, that's the kind of info i was looking for :thumbsup:


I would go to one of their stores. Their online offerings are basically department store level bikes. I believe they sell some Diamondback, K2 and Iron Horse bikes in their stores that might be trail worthy. Just be careful. I know that 25% coupon is very tempting. Just be sure you're getting a bike made for mountain biking.

Best wishes in finding the right ride for your hard earned dollar.

Bob


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

what about that $1500 all wheel drive bike


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## Call_me_Clyde (Oct 27, 2004)

*DB Response at Sports Auth*

Had to run out to pick up something at Office depot at lunch so I stopped in to SA. They were low on bikes, but they had a couple of Diamondback Response on the floor. On sale for $269, you get Truvativ cranks, Shimano Alivio rear derailleur, SRAM SX series front derailleur, RST Gila 6 fork and I believe Tektro rim breaks. with your 25% discount this comes to around $200.00. This bike is a great deal at this price and a nice entry into the mtb world.

Bob


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## Call_me_Clyde (Oct 27, 2004)

*Don't even go there*



drinklime said:


> what about that $1500 all wheel drive bike


nice to see you have a sense of humor 

See my comments on the DB response. Great deal on an entry level bike, IMO.

Bob


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

sweet! thanks man i appreciate it. by the way, if i show up there and they have some "fancier" bikes like that... is there an easy way to judge whether the components are good, or do you just have to know already? for example if i see truvativ stamped on the side, does that mean its good? or is it like shimano where it might be good or it might be crap?


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## kevin6s (Jun 13, 2006)

If I remember their newspaper ad correctly, Sports Authority had 35% off K2 and Columbia bikes for this weeks deal. Take a ride to the store if there is one near you. Their website is essentially operated by fogdog's parent company. They operate the online business for numerous shops. This is why Dicks, Sports Authority, Modells, fogdog.com etc. all have the same online offerings (even the same look and feel of the website in most cases) even though they are all different entities. Sales tax only being colelcted in KY and PA is also a dead giveaway...


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## Call_me_Clyde (Oct 27, 2004)

*Hard to tell*



drinklime said:


> sweet! thanks man i appreciate it. by the way, if i show up there and they have some "fancier" bikes like that... is there an easy way to judge whether the components are good, or do you just have to know already? for example if i see truvativ stamped on the side, does that mean its good? or is it like shimano where it might be good or it might be crap?


It takes time to know what products are good and bad. I saw bikes with Shimano components that I wouldn't look at twice. The Truvativ cranks are low end for them, but at least it's a name brand as compared to the other bike I commented on earlier that just said "alloy cranks". I saw a full suspension bike there that was around $600.00 (K2 perhaps??) but again, you're not getting a good full suspension rig for that kind of money. I just did a quick pass through the store and picked out what I felt was the best "bang for the buck". Your SA store may have a wider selection. They may not even have the Response. If you can, bring someone knowledgable with you to look at the bikes.

I also saw a couple of Columbia brand bikes as mentioned by another poster. Nothing to see here...move along...move along. Clearly relying on their brand name, not quality of component selection, IMO.

Let us know how your visit to the store goes.

Bob


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## kevin6s (Jun 13, 2006)

I wasn't recommending them, just repeating the headline in the Sunday advertisement.


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## Homer Simpson (May 21, 2004)

My opinion is unimportant and should be disregarded.


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## Eric Hoefer (Jan 19, 2004)

the best bang for the buck looks like that mongoose alta. It has decent looking geometry a decent entry level fork (rst Gila) all the same component size specs as any other bike so its upgradable if you get more serious into the sport I would say its definitly bike path worthy.


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## Call_me_Clyde (Oct 27, 2004)

*Some clarification*



Homer Simpson said:



> The important thing is that this is a mtn bike site and most everyone here is a serious cyclist. No serious cyclist will ever tell you what "cheap" bike to buy, we'll point you to a LBS to buy a good bike. Most of us started out on POS bikes. Now we ride nice bikes. We have learned by wasting money on a "cheap" bike that a nice LBS bike really is worth the money. If your not really serious about cycling, then it doesn't matter what you ride. If your just going to ride paved trails, then anything will do. And, yes, a nice bike is much more fun to ride, making you want to ride more.
> 
> This is not really the place to ask for advice about a "cheap" bike, we really have no good knowledge of these things. You might try "consumer reports" for info about what bike you want. If your 15 year old huffy that has never been professionally worked on, then be cheap and keep riding it. It works and will cost you nothing.


I agree in principle with the majority of your post, but thought I should clarify some things. The guy has a budget to stick within, and a coupon that might save him $75-$100. The recommendations have been clear to stay away from the department store bikes. Sports Authority caters mostly to the department store/fringe LBS crowd, and their bike selection reflects that. I happen to feel the recommendation I made was a good one based on this guy's needs. The same bike at the LBS would be $100 more. He does need to be very careful if he starts looking at other rmodels at SA, because to the inexperienced buyer, they probably all look the same. Those of us who have some knowledge of the subject know that the differences can be extreme.

Bob


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

THANKS EVERYONE (especially clyde)

I went to SA and basically, they had zero of the bikes that were listed online. I looked around and immediately grabbed the Diamondbacks, and the first one I grabbed ended up being the one i got, and it was the Response:

http://www.diamondback.com/items.asp?itemid=177&childid=355

By the way Clyde, it wasnt 269, that was the Diamondback Peak (i think). The Response was arounf 340 (marked down from 400) - 25%= ~$260, which is just what i needed!

The guy working there seemed like he knew his stuff, he basically said everything you guys said, including that the Columbia's there were no good for off-road. He said the Response was the best hardtail there, and I got the 20" over the 18" on his advice.

He adjusted it and all that stuff too, so dont underestimate the power of Sports Authority!

OK, it does squeak a little sometimes... i think its the crank. But it sure goes way faster (and straighter) than my Huffy. Thanks again!


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## Eric Hoefer (Jan 19, 2004)

drinklime said:


> THANKS EVERYONE (especially clyde)
> 
> I went to SA and basically, they had zero of the bikes that were listed online. I looked around and immediately grabbed the Diamondbacks, and the first one I grabbed ended up being the one i got, and it was the Response:
> 
> ...


You got a great price on that, its spec'd really well for what you paid! That will even handle some XC riding if you wanna venture off the path a little bit for some croc action


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

hmm this message board sure orders the posts strangely... anyway, i forgot to mention, the guy there checked with his manager about the coupon, and when he came back he said, "i checked with the manager, because we can't sell below cost, but you are OK"

it was marked at 400 and i bought it for 260 and it STILL was above cost, so... do the math


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## rkj__ (Feb 29, 2004)

Congrats on your new bike. Sounds like you did well, and got something pretty decent. Enjoy it!


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## Eric Hoefer (Jan 19, 2004)

drinklime said:


> hmm this message board sure orders the posts strangely... anyway, i forgot to mention, the guy there checked with his manager about the coupon, and when he came back he said, "i checked with the manager, because we can't sell below cost, but you are OK"
> 
> it was marked at 400 and i bought it for 260 and it STILL was above cost, so... do the math


Markup on bike equipment is rediculous. The mountain I regulary ride at got all new rear suspension put in their new rental bikes to handle the terrain better (manitou Metal R) and got them at dealer cost I was able to get the price out of one of the mountain guides and they ended up only paying $15 per shock. Now if they could hook me up with a deal like that it would be marvelous.


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

oh wow, i just looked at the sales slip, "This purchase includes free one year standard tune-up if the need arises." :thumbsup:


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## rkj__ (Feb 29, 2004)

Eric Hoefer said:


> Markup on bike equipment is rediculous. The mountain I regulary ride at got all new rear suspension put in their new rental bikes to handle the terrain better (manitou Metal R) and got them at dealer cost I was able to get the price out of one of the mountain guides and they ended up only paying $15 per shock. Now if they could hook me up with a deal like that it would be marvelous.


Yup markups can be crazy. I was in a shop today that had an avid BB7 brake stickered at $200CAD. Common, you can get em for $65USD online. The retalier is still making profit at that price.



drinklime said:


> oh wow, i just looked at the sales slip, "This purchase includes free one year standard tune-up if the need arises." :thumbsup:


That is cool, but SA tuneups can be hit or miss. It depends who is working at your location. Some of their mechanics are more capable than others. Some are just kinda useless. Your cables will stretch initially a little, and you will likely need a tuneup. Take it back to SA, and see how they do. It's free. If they don't do a good job, don't be too shocked, then head to an LBS, as they are likely to do a better job.


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## Call_me_Clyde (Oct 27, 2004)

*Good for you!*



drinklime said:


> THANKS EVERYONE (especially clyde)
> 
> I went to SA and basically, they had zero of the bikes that were listed online. I looked around and immediately grabbed the Diamondbacks, and the first one I grabbed ended up being the one i got, and it was the Response:
> 
> ...


You bought a nice, entry level bike that will do well on the trails. Just don't expect it to handle drops and stunts and other crazy stuff. Glad to see that you got such a deal on the bike. Less than $300 is very good. Don't forget to get yourself a helmet.

Enjoy!

Bob


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

i feel guilty just jumping off a curb so i dont think you will see me airborne very often


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## firstcut (Jun 16, 2006)

I would really like a 4 month update on this bike see how shes fairing. As far as your deal and the bike i think u got a decent 1 for the money gratz. Although you coulda done something like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSAA:US:11&Item=220005469211 this is my second 1 my first 1 the frame is a size to small and is going to my back up or loaner/gf ride, i love the joshua to death. But yea hope u enjoy her and keep riding.


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## Call_me_Clyde (Oct 27, 2004)

*Give it time*



drinklime said:


> i feel guilty just jumping off a curb so i dont think you will see me airborne very often


Curbs and the like will be fine. Soon enough you'll be challenging yourself. You don't need to baby the bike, just know what it's made for, and that you shouldn't push it past it's intended usage.

Great that you get free tune ups, but rjk has a point. SA is not a LBS. The people who work in the bike dept. may or may not be good mechanics. By all means, have the bike checked by them free of charge if you have problems or need a tune up. Take advantage of what they offer. Don't be surprised though if you need to go elsewhere for more competent mechanical work.

In the meantime, stop posting here and go ride your bike!!!

Bob


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## thecraze (Aug 17, 2006)

*Dept store bike*

Drinklime, be happy with the bike. Don't allow people to get you down. And, don't worry about not having free adjustments for a year or two. It's easy. I, myself, figured out how to do many things on a bike by just looking them up online. Because of the net, I was able to almost completely re-do my Fiance's Schwinn. I upgraded pretty much the whole bike. Yes, it would have been cheaper simply buying a bike with upgraded components, but I wanted to figure it out. All that's original that's left is the frame, seatpost, pedals, and bottom bracket. There's no better feeling than doing it yourself. If people learn to do these things, I bet there would be a lot less accidents on the trails, rather than relying on someone else to take care of it.


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

OK well here is the update, its been great. At first the brakes were dragging and the chain came off, but i fiddled with the screws and its been OK with those. There is one problem though, every cycle of the crank, I can hear and feel a click on the right side. Im guessing it might be hard to fix, but does anyone know what the symptom indicates? Basically when I put force on the right pedal, once per turn of the crank, I hear a click and it feels like it has a really slight gap... I dont know a better way to explain it.


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## 29Colossus (Jun 4, 2006)

drinklime said:


> OK well here is the update, its been great. At first the brakes were dragging and the chain came off, but i fiddled with the screws and its been OK with those. There is one problem though, every cycle of the crank, I can hear and feel a click on the right side. Im guessing it might be hard to fix, but does anyone know what the symptom indicates? Basically when I put force on the right pedal, once per turn of the crank, I hear a click and it feels like it has a really slight gap... I dont know a better way to explain it.


GREAT to hear that it has been working out for you!

Nothing is hard to fix on a bike. For your issue I would check the crankarm for tightness and the bottom bracket. Also make sure the pedals themselves are tight. It could be many things, but that is where I would look first. Crank arms often loosen up on new bikes as they break in.


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## MJBayUNL (Apr 30, 2006)

Hey good to hear you found an ok bike at SA. About the mark up, I work at a sporting goods store, granted higher end than SA, much higher end, and we sell primarily Specialized. Well I tested a 2000 dollar XC FSR and the bike would have only cost me 950 dollars, gives you something to think about when you buy bikes. Oh my discount is at cost. Almost everything in stores is pretty close to double what the store pays


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## thecraze (Aug 17, 2006)

drinklime said:


> OK well here is the update, its been great. At first the brakes were dragging and the chain came off, but i fiddled with the screws and its been OK with those. There is one problem though, every cycle of the crank, I can hear and feel a click on the right side. Im guessing it might be hard to fix, but does anyone know what the symptom indicates? Basically when I put force on the right pedal, once per turn of the crank, I hear a click and it feels like it has a really slight gap... I dont know a better way to explain it.


I've had a similar problem when I would go to a higher gear. It ends up, my problem, was that the chain was rubbing on the front derailleur at a certain angle when I shifted to the higher gears. I adjusted the front derailleur properly (finally, it was driving me crazy), and haven't heard it since. Check the angle of the derailleur to the crank. Your derailleur may be too far from the crank, also.


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

OK well I figured out what the problem is... but I'm not sure how to fix it. Its hard to explain cause i dont know all the vocab, but basically, i can tug on the whole pedal/arm/crank assembly outward and you hear a "snap" and it moves ever so slightly (less than a mm).

In other words... with the pedals at 12 and 6 oclock, hold on to the one at 6 and then pull the one at 12 outwards away from the bike, and you hear the little snap in the center. Then turn it a half crank and you can pull it back to the other side. I tightened the bolts on the pedal arms on each side a bit and it seemed to go away for about 3 minutes, but it came back. (it still is better than before). The weird thing is, the easier I go on the pedals the more I feel the problem, if I am pedaling hard you cant feel it. (i think it was the opposite before)

So my question is should I tighten those bolts more or is there something else behind them? (can I just unbolt the pedal arms and look without too much risk?)


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## Jwiffle (Jan 26, 2004)

drinklime said:


> i can tug on the whole pedal/arm/crank assembly outward and you hear a "snap" and it moves ever so slightly (less than a mm).
> So my question is should I tighten those bolts more or is there something else behind them? (can I just unbolt the pedal arms and look without too much risk?)


Something is apparently loose in your bottom bracket. You will need a couple tools. Unbolt the cap screws on the crank arms. Using a crank puller tool, remove the crank arms. Using a Bottom Bracket tool, remove the bottom bracket--remove the left/non-drive side first. (the right/drive side is reverse-threaded) Grease the threads and reinstall the bottom bracket. Grease the bottom bracket spindle and reinstall the crank arms. If that does not do the trick, then likely the bottom bracket needs to be replaced. Thankfully, square-taper bottom brackets are not very expensive. If you get a hold of Zinn and the 
Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, you will be able to check and/or change the bottom bracket easily (along with the proper tools).


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

rats. i think thats a little too much for me. how much should i pay to get that done at a bike shop?


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## Call_me_Clyde (Oct 27, 2004)

*You shouldn't pay*



drinklime said:


> rats. i think thats a little too much for me. how much should i pay to get that done at a bike shop?


Take it back to SA and see if they will tighten in for free.


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## Jwiffle (Jan 26, 2004)

If it is the bottom bracket, I don't know if SA will have the proper tools, but it doesn't hurt to check--it should be covered by the free tune-ups you mentioned earlier. (I had been unaware that SA offered any kind of maintenance package with their bikes!) You'd probably pay about $15 at a bike shop. If a new bottom bracket is needed, it'll run about $15-$40 for the bottom bracket and $15-20 for the labor.


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## MillerSHO (Sep 28, 2006)

-=*TWECO*=- said:


> I say save up a little more like $400-$500 and get a bike from your lbs Trek 4300 only $450
> Specialized hardrock sport disc also around $450. If you can't save any more money you can still get Trek 3900 $320, or Gary Fisher capitola also around $320 Just my 2 cents


Ther 4300 is $370-$400 around here.


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

yea i could take it back to SA for a tune up, and i did about 2 or 3 times the week after i got it, but i wasnt satisfied with their work. the brakes still scraped and the chain wouldnt shift properly so i adjusted those myself. $20 at a bike shop seems reasonable, i might do that


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## Tanis (Sep 13, 2006)

drinklime said:


> rats. i think thats a little too much for me. how much should i pay to get that done at a bike shop?


Hey chief,

Grats on the new bike. I agree that removing and replacing your crankset might be too much, let alone servicing you bottom bracket, at least at this time. What Clyde said, take it back to SA and make sure they tighten up the Crankset.

If you ever want to start working on your own bike and learn how it really works, Park Tools Website has very good break down on what and how to do.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp

REPAIR HOW-TO'S per region. I wish I had this resource back when saddle springs were the only rear suspension available. Some of the maintenance that you can do are pretty straight forward. Acquiring the necessary tools might get a little expensive but most of the work can be done with a simple screw driver and a set of allen wrenches. It is a good starting point if anything. Hope it helps.

Take it easy :cornut:


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## rguynn (Aug 17, 2004)

i think you did ok with that bike for the type of riding that you do. i.e. mostly paved trails. however if you ever decided to start hitting more technical trails with dirt, mud, rocks, drops, etc, I think you will quickly see why so many people say go to an LBS.


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## cg61doc (Sep 11, 2006)

Enjoy your ride. I had a DB Sorrento for years and was dependable (currently wearing it's sixth set of tires). Occasionally components would break (usually due to my inability to navigate and subsequently crashing), but the frame is still sound. I ride a C-dale now and the DB is my spare bike. The clicking in your BB/Crank could come from several sources. If you don't feel confident in repairing it yourself, take it back to SA and use up some of your free maintainance... Eventually you will become proficient in repair, as things rarely go wrong in the driveway. Enjoy and good luck.


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

update... i didnt feel like fixing it myself and the weather got rainy so it just sat in the garage. cut to a few months later and my dad took it to SA so they could fix the clicking (without asking me)... well apparently they worked on it for a bit then told him to come back in a few weeks when it wasnt so busy... my dad takes it back and the guy who told him that doesnt work there anymore

i tried to ride it the other day and found out the guy at SA totally f***** it up :madmax:

i will be heading to the bike shop to buy some tools tomorrow :thumbsup:


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## [dB]Will (Jan 25, 2007)

i just got an 07 Diamondback Sorrento fro xmas from the "authority". pretty damn good all-around bike, effin solid, and almost perfect for what ur lookin to do.


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## drinklime (Jul 20, 2006)

OK, i ended up just letting this cool bike place fix it, since it was cheaper than buying the tools. So finally, 13 bucks later, it's riding perfectly again


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## damion (Jun 27, 2003)

*Time for the age old question.*

Now that you have had some time with the bike, and found out what SA is really like, would you do it again?

What will you say to a rider in the same spot as you were? Go to SA, or a LBS?


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## michaelg (Apr 6, 2006)

Behold The Power Of Te Department Store


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## jyeager (Nov 30, 2006)

Call_me_Clyde said:


> Take it back to SA and see if they will tighten in for free.


What he said.

You have one year of free adjustments so make them fix their sloppy assembly work.


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