# Project help me Lighten my 2006 Scott Scale 20. In need of the "Light Bike Gods" haha



## Sexyblackbmw (Mar 7, 2007)

*Project help me Lighten my 2006 Scott Scale 20. In need of the "Light Bike Gods" haha*

After the Intense Tracer FS i was riding around a while ago, I decided it was time to try a carbon hardtail with discs! Just purchased a 2006 Scott Scale 20.

You guys know your stuff more than me for lightweight parts, maybe Nino wouldn't mind chiming in here with his expertise?

*How can I get this 22 pound bike to 20 pounds or less? *

Keep in mind i weigh between 185-190 pounds currently (my winter weight), but that will drop as soon as I begin riding and training again.

stock specs:

FRAME SIZE: Medium
Weight: 10 Kg 
Frame: Scott Scale Carbon CR1 technologie custom disc dropout 
Fork: Fox F80 RL reb. adj / Lockout 80 mm 
Headset: FSA 9 alloy 
Rear Derailleur: Shimano XTR 27 Speed 
Front Derailleur: Shimano XT / E-Type 
Shifters: Shimano XT Dual control 
Brakelevers: Shimano XT Disc 
Brakes: Shimano XT Disc 
Crankset: Shimano XT hollowtech 2 
BB-Set: Shimano Cartridge 
Handlebar: Scott Hot Rod 580 mm 
H'stem: Scott Pro 1-1/8" / 6° rise 
Pedal: Shimano PD-M540 Clipless pedal 
Seatpost: Scott RC 03 6061 
Seat: Selle Italy SLR XP Kevlar (mine says XC on it) 
Hub front: DT Swiss Disc 28 H / CL 
Hub rear: DT Swiss Disc 28 H / CL 
Chain: Shimano CN-HG53 
Cassette: Shimano XT M-760 11-32 T 
Spokes: DT Swiss new aero black 
Rims: Mavic XM-317 Disc 28H Black Anodized 
Tires: Scott OXYD 26 x 2.0 120TPI Kevlar Bead

I was planning to run Maxxis MaxxLite 310, for everyday riding, if thats safe? unless the scott tires are any good, and almost as lightweight?

Also, pedals, I prefer Speedplay Frogs. Will probably go for the Stainless Steel version because they say there is a rider limit with the Ti spindle (185 pound limit)...

Other than that I don't know what to change? the wheelset should be fairly light? Hugi hubs have always been fairly lightweight...

Front fork = not sure. I don't have much experience with fox front forks. I rode Marzochi z.2 xfly 100, and white brothers XC forks in the past. Never been on a sid, but always wanted one for the awesome weight savings. But I enjoy riding technical tight singletrack, *so how would the SID work out for me as far as stiffness and rigidity compared to my new FOX fork? *

Handlebars, stem, and seatpost, I don't know the weights of. Does anyone know? Could I save weight going with lightweight Ritchey WCS Carbon or Aluminum versions?

Its very cold outside still, and the trails and ground is still snow and ice covered, so the bike is brand new, and I haven't got a chance to really test it out yet. I have at least a month to play with bike setup before the trails are ride'able.

As well, since I spent a lot on the bike, I'd like to reduce the cost of swapping out parts... I'll spend the money only if its going to get me significant weight savings!

*What else will save me weight, and how much savings in grams?*

*Work your magic "light bike gods"!*


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## Some Guy (Mar 27, 2005)

Ditch the seatpost bars & stem, they are way heavy. Keep the Fox fork, at your weight running a sid just isn't a good idea. Cranks, pedals, and wheels would also be good things to upgrade.

You can save a fair bit changing the brakes too, which would mean changing your shifters. New XTR triggers?


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## rkj__ (Feb 29, 2004)

i would suggest starting with the wheels and cranks. that bike already has a pretty sweet spec.


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## Sexyblackbmw (Mar 7, 2007)

What seatpost bars & stem, and cranks should I look at?

does anyone know the stock weights for these parts?

I believe the stock weight for these cranks with the bottom bracket is 860 grams... carbon sets with Bottombrackets are still around 800 grams or more, no?

whats the weight on my wheelset? a light disc wheelset is what, 1600grams? mine can't be that much more?


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## Some Guy (Mar 27, 2005)

An XTR crankset saves 80 grams over what you have. A light disc wheelset is more like 1400gr, and I would expect yours to be 1700gr or more.


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## Sexyblackbmw (Mar 7, 2007)

okay great...so better off spending my money towards a lighter wheelset, If you say I'll save 300+ grams.

What kind of wheelset should I buy? or which prebuilt should I look at?

as far as bars and stems, is Syntace the lightest and strongest?


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## Indiefab (Feb 5, 2005)

Check out my thread here - http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=255445

I have those exact wheels and tires. My rotors are XTR, but if I remember, there is less than 20g difference. I didn't post the weight of the wheels alone, but I think they were right around 1800 total. The real weight savings is the tires. The OXYD are nice and light. I'm 200# plus and I've been riding them on rocky trails since Christmas with ultralight tubes without a flat. 
The wheels themselves are bulletproof for XC, but they're overkill if you can afford something lighter.


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## Sexyblackbmw (Mar 7, 2007)

great reply! thanks! 

soo, if I were to upgrade whats a great lightweight disc wheel setup for the money? something that everyone here agrees to be an awesome wheelset?

extralight ultradisc??? they are $1000 USD... hmmm


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## aussie_yeti (Apr 27, 2004)

As already said, keep the fork, you only want to drop weight if it'll make you faster - I find it hard to believe anyone over 140lbs would be quicker on a SID than a Fox.

You can save 50grams by getting an XTR M952 series e-type front derailleur from ebay.

When people say change the crankset they are meaning go to something like an old Raceface Next Crankset with an American Classic Titanium bottom bracket - these setups get under 700 grams if you do it right, an example. You also get a narrower q-factor which for most gives a more efficient pedalling technique. If you want to retain an external bearing setup then XTR saves 80 grams over XT but still has a q-factor 10mm narrower.

You can save a bunch of weight with the brakes and shifters, but you'll have to change it all at once obviously because you have dual control so I'd look elsewhere for upgrades first.

A Syntace F99 stem and Duraflite handlebar are a good choice when you do get around to swapping the bar/stem, you're looking at about 100 grams savings.

Go to your Speedplay Frogs if you like them. Pedals, seat and grips should be comfortable first and then light as they are the points of contact between you and the bike. A bonus with the Frog's is that they are lighter than the M540's.

Seatpost is about 265 grams, a WCS carbon is around 220, money is probably better spent elsewhere.

The seat is pretty popular, so if it works for you keep it, they're 175 grams - and just to clear things up SLP XP kevlar = SLR XC, I don't know why Scott list it as SLR XP kevlar.

I had the same wheels on my Scale - they are 1810 grams, rimtape is 32 grams. This is the first thing I'd do, drop the cash and get some good wheels - I bought Industry9 Ultralights with Notubes ZTR355 rims - these weigh 1445 grams plus 10 grams of Notubes rimtape and they're tubeless. I love the I9 wheels but there are plenty of options out there. A handbuilt wheelset with some DT Swiss 240s hubs, Aerolite spokes, Aluminium nipples and Notubes rims is also around the 1450 grams mark (just not as stiff or as fast engagement as the I9 wheels). Use Notubes sealant instead of tubes and get some light tyres like Kenda Karma's or Hutchinson Piranha's (not stupid light like Maxxis Maxxlite's or Conti Twisters) and you'll have saved in the vicinity of 600-700 grams.


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## Hardtailforever (Feb 11, 2004)

I would look at the new XTR wheels, Mavic X-Max, WTB Lazerdisc Lite wheels, DT XR-1540 wheelset, or something built up with DT240's or WTB Lazerdisc Lites hubs with Mavic XC717 or DT 4.2D or Stan's rims. NoTubes sells a sweet, lightweight wheelset built around the WTB hubs (great value) and their Olympic rims (great weight), and their stuff is pretty well built and a very good value.

Also, you could save some weight at not a ton of cost by going to a nice carbon bar (Syntace and Max'm come to mind) and a Ritchey WCS (very light) or Ritchey Pro (pretty cheap and not heavy) carbon seatpost (they're the only ones that come in a 34.9mm, which is what you need, and they're really nice). The pedals would also be a cheap upgrade, as the Speedplays are significantly lighter.

I would NOT run a SID on that bike if stiffness and handling are priority, especially compared to the Fox and what you've ridden before. If you're intent on switching, try a Manitou R7 or Pace RC39. But unless you already have one of these and can just sell your Fox, I'd keep what you have; it's a really nice fork.

No tire is "almost as light" as the Max Lite 310, but that's a crap tire for everyday riding and is meant for hardpack (not rocky/technical) XC or short track racing only. Honestly, I'd run your Scott OXYD tires until they wear out, then go for a tire around 450-500g, like a Kenda SB-8 or Maxxis LarsenTT or CrossMark, converted with tubeless sealant.

Get yourself some nice Ti Skewers, like Salsa Flipoff Ti or DT RWS Ti.


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## Sexyblackbmw (Mar 7, 2007)

thats an amazing reply thanks!!

I agree with the crankset! I ran the same NExt lp and ti bottom bracket on my intense tracer... very lightweight... I might just do an XTR hollowtech setup in the near future... 80 gram savings is good, but not huge like the wheel set...

I'll definatly do the lighter wheelset... i'm scared to run tubeless. I just don't think I could ever get use to it....

where can I read up more about your wheelset? the Industry9 Ultralights ? you're running disc brakes as well?


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## Sexyblackbmw (Mar 7, 2007)

What about something less expensive, i.e Hugi 240s disc hubs, and use my current 317 disc rim, and maybe some DT revolution spokes?

i can rebuild my wheelset with lighter weight hubs and spokes/nipples right? what would you guys choose?

or would I be better off selling the lightweight wheelset locally as a whole package?


Nino, care to comment on my bike? I know you have the same frame... What would you do, keeping within a budget.

Tires: I was going to try maxxis maxxlites 310's... but some people talked me out of them because they don't provide the kind of traction most riders look for. 

What else is out there for lightweight tires that have awesome traction and riding characteristics?


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## What&son (Jan 13, 2004)

*About the spokes*

I asked around the wheels forum and got good advise on wheel tuning.
I have a xtr disc/717/dt champion(2mm straight)+brass nipples wheelset that is 1787 gms(w/o skewers). I´m swaping to dt supercomps(2-1.7-1.8) and revolutions on the non disc front and alum nipples and expecting to drop to 1594 gms.
That is for a 32 spoke wheelset.Your 28 will be little less saving.
It´s a cheap way to save weight if you do it yourself. I don´t have the price from the shop yet as they are checking if they include the nipples with the spokes or not. Anyway,I calculate that should go from 0.5 euros / gram the most expensive, to 0.32 eur/gram if they give me the nipples for free. Good, don´t you think?

note: I have no idea how heavy your spokes are


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## waterfield (Feb 25, 2007)

I have the same frame and its build up at 17.6 lbs right now and fully raceable. Some options that will not break the bank could be:

You can get WTB Laser Lights Hubs to Mavic X717 rims for about $350 and bring you in at 1570G wheelset.

Stem bar seatpost - Easton EC90 Bar, Syntace F99 Stem, Post would be the Ritchey WCS Carbon but said above cost alot but not much saving.

Maybe the Triple Ti pedals

Tires could go with the Maxxis Larsen TT at 450g each (no good in mud)
I race the maxxlite 310 but only in perfect dry hard packed conditions. works great but cant be lazy on the single track cause there isnt much bite on the sides.

Again is a balance of everything, just weigh ur priorities. 
cost vs weight vs durability vs looks etc.....


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## Mads Kock (May 26, 2005)

I'm no god but you're welcome to have a look here:


















It's going to cost a bit money to lighten your bike but I would suggest:
- lighter wheelset. My XTR is 1550 grams and my Tune wheelset is 1286 grams. Go for XTR is probably most safe for your weight. Saving - about 200 grams,

- lighter seatpost and stem. The oem Scott is heavy - get a Extralite shim and use a light 31,6mm seatpost if you don't want to get a expensive 34,9mm seatpost. Like suggested a Syntace F99 is a good stem. Saving - about 150 grams,

- XTR cassette, XTR front derailleur and KMC x10SL chain - saving about 150 grams,

- TA chainrings for your XT crankset. Saving about 50 grams,

- new XTR centerlock rotors. I don't know the weight of the xt centerlock rotors but I think the new XTR will save you about 40 grams,

- lighter pedals ofcourse,

- Alligator housing - will save you about 40 grams.

There's alot of tuning in your bike so it's only the money that will stop you. Enjoy tuning


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

*some help...*

a few suggestions without changing too much or breaking the banc...

Brakes: Shimano XT Disc............................lightweight rotors (160mm 92g each) (-70g)
Crankset: Shimano XT hollowtech 2.................aluminium chainringbolts (-20g)
Handlebar: Scott Hot Rod 580 mm........................Easton EC90SL 100g (-40g?)
H'stem: Scott Pro 1-1/8" / 6° rise........................Syntace f99 100g (-50g?)
Pedal: Shimano PD-M540 Clipless pedal........................Exustar E-PM25 Ti 210g (-140g)
Seatpost: Scott RC 03 6061....................................reduction shim + KCNC 31,6/350 172g (-130g?)
Hub front: DT Swiss Disc 28 H / CL..........................Amclassic Disc wheelset 1450g (-400g?)
Hub rear: DT Swiss Disc 28 H / CL
Chain: Shimano CN-HG53..................................KMC X10SL 225g (- 65g)
Cassette: Shimano XT M-760 11-32 T................................alloy lockring 5g (-10g)
Tires: Scott OXYD 26 x 2.0 120TPI Kevlar Bead..................Kenda Blue Groove 420g ea. (-200g?)


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## Sexyblackbmw (Mar 7, 2007)

you guys are awesome! thank you so much for all the advice! Now time to get started, I'll post pics along the way so everyone can see their great advice at work.


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## Tracerboy (Oct 13, 2002)

Ditch the presta valve stem caps and those pedal platforms...free.


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## Sexyblackbmw (Mar 7, 2007)

fanghasyou said:


> Ditch the presta valve stem caps and those pedal platforms...free.


hahah! yeah those pedals are already gone.... I decided to stick with the Speedplay Frog stainless steel spindle 250 g.... I love em, and use to them.

Nino and Mads Kock,

is it safe to use a seat tube shim with this frame?

I'm suposed to buy and apply carbon frame paste to where I torque anything down, such as the seat tube? or is dry install fine?

So here's the list of upgrades I'll do right away:

1.Speedplay frog stainless steel pedals
2.Syntace F99 stem
3. Syntace duraflite carbon bar or Easton EC90SL
3. Lightweight tubes, and Kenda Blue Groove or Maxxis Larsen TT 
3. Ritchey WCS Carbon seatpost, or KCNC 31,6/350, or Thompson masterpeice 31.6... with extralite shim 
4.Then work on a really lightweight and strong wheelset. The DT new aero spokes appear to heavier than the DT revolutions...

so maybe DT Swiss 240s hubs or Tune, with my mavic 317 disc rims (they appear to be 395grams each on weightweenies) and DT revolution spokes.

or just drop the cash on an I9 wheelset?


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## waterfield (Feb 25, 2007)

hey u have the cash then drop it on I9s, all the way!!!! I hear Bling Bling..........


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## mpap89 (Mar 10, 2005)

i would look at some kcnc stuff. seatpost, handlebar, stem. its all pretty cheap and really light for the price. 
http://www.fairwheelbikes.com/index..._id=41&zenid=2db0411291b85c3184a310c231d136ed
http://cgi.ebay.com/KCNC-100mm-Fly-...emZ250012389487QQcategoryZ42333QQcmdZViewItem
and get a 31.6 shim with this:
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&satitle=kcnc+ti+pro+lite
Michael


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## aussie_yeti (Apr 27, 2004)

Your list of things to do looks pretty much spot on but I'll still add some thoughts. Tyres, don't do the Larsen thing, a bit of tyre testing was done at the AIS (australian institute of sport) (commissioned by the national mtb coach), they came out with extremely high rolling resistance. I'd suggest Kenda (Blue Groove, Karma), Hutchinson (Piranha Airlight) or if the conditions get a bit wet a Schwalbe Nobby Nic - super fast for the size of the nobs and not too heavy. Tubes, don't go below about 120 grams - I don't get through a ride on Maxxis Flyweights, Conti Supersonics - but get a similar frequency between flats with 120 gram tubes versus standard 180 gram tubes. Continental MTB 26 Light are very good quality - if you're happy to drop the cash, Michelin Latex C4 tubes are around the 120 gram mark and also have lower rolling resistance and higher puncture resistance than standard tubes. I haven't flatted in half a year on them, a mate did half a year on them last year with no flats (including 3 world cup rounds amongst other races). Who would have thought so much could be written on tyres and tubes.

Seatpost, using a shim with your Scale frame will void the warranty so how far are you willing to go to drop grams. Plenty of people run one and haven't had an issue (me included), but it's better you know before you go that route. It is the cheapest solution to dropping grams at the seatpost though. I did the Thomson Masterpiece/Extralite Shim setup.

Now about the wheels, the most important thing, get this right the first time. Your rims are XM317, not X317 - the X317 is discontinued as of a couple of years ago, yes it weighed 395 grams but it is now called the XC717. Your XM317 rims are 440 grams each so don't rebuild on them.

Your wheels are also built with the New Aero spokes which while being super stiff are close to the heaviest spokes DT Swiss make (excluding Alpine III). The Aerolite spokes are the same weight as Revolutions, Supercomps are 50 grams heavier, Comps 50 grams heavier again. DT Swiss recommend against building a disc brake wheel with Revolutions as they just aren't stiff enough, people do it, but at 190+lbs for an everyday wheelset they're not going to last long. Aerolites will hold up though if you want to go light but retain stiffness.

I'd stay away from the WTB/American Classic hubs for everyday use, it's a bit of a lottery getting a set that is reliable. DT Swiss 240s hubs seem to be the balance between weight/price/reliability - there's Extralite, Tune or the DT Swiss Ceramic 190 if you want to spend more to drop grams, or Hope Pro II's are only a little heavier than the 240s if you want to save some money.

I put a lot of thought and research into wheels, I'm in Australia so pricing might be different but it ended up being AUD250 difference between a build of 240s hbus/Aerolite spokes/Alloy nips/Notubes rims and Industry9 Ultralights on Notubes rims. The weight is negligable (I9's lighter by 10 grams), the rim was the same (I went ZTR355 over Olympic as they're only 10 grams heavier but are a fair bit wider - more comfort, better tyre stability, bigger tyre volume), the differing factor was wheel stiffness and hub engagement. The I9 hub/spoke combination is stiff, just look at how many 29er riders are using them and stiffness was one of the big problems with 29er wheels. Finally, you're getting a hub that engages as fast as a King (and is just as loud). Then there is the cool factor, they look so damn good - I decided it was worth the extra money, when I'm spending that much, why not go the extra. You asked for more info, there's a fair bit if you search or simply check out www.industrynine.net - the website is being redone though.

EDIT: there's this thread on I9 wheels, it looks like the user 'losjefes' may work for them if you've got any questions.


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## Pooh Bear (May 25, 2006)

Sexyblackbmw said:


> okay great...so better off spending my money towards a lighter wheelset, If you say I'll save 300+ grams.
> 
> What kind of wheelset should I buy? or which prebuilt should I look at?
> 
> as far as bars and stems, is Syntace the lightest and strongest?


syntace should be the best for you. I wouldn't go towards too light a wheelset. Definetely not under 1500gr. I would save this in tires instead.

Oh, and I second the bit on michelin latex tubes. They are light and in my head I notice the rolling difference. I didn't even flat a Schwalbe Fast Fred light with them, although at the end of the ride I could see the tube in several places shining through the tire. :skep:

ditch the pedals. the reflecto bits are cool, though.


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## Sexyblackbmw (Mar 7, 2007)

Thanks! I'm so impressed, you guys are amazing! everyone really knows their stuff about light bikes! 

I can't wait to have some fun reducing my bike's weight.

Can my local bike store get in Industry nine's?

or is there an online canadain retailer I can purchase from?


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## The Crimson King (Apr 25, 2006)

changing shifters and grips will save you a lot of weight...foam grips are the best for comfort and weight. i saved 100 g by switching from rubber grips to foam :thumbsup: 

also you brakes are quite heavy, so using XT rapid fire (cheap and light, remember to put of the gear indicator -22 g ) and avid ultimates (maybe with nino's discs...really cool!) you can save a lot.

for wheels i'd use custom buildt...240 hubs DT champion and a 350-400 g rims (DT or Mavic) will save you both weight and money.


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## Purple Liquid (Dec 6, 2005)

nino said:


> a few suggestions without changing too much or breaking the banc...
> 
> Brakes: Shimano XT Disc............................lightweight rotors (160mm 92g each) (-70g)
> Crankset: Shimano XT hollowtech 2.................aluminium chainringbolts (-20g)
> ...


No reduction shim. It will void the warrenty if you have a shim.

Don't know why, but be careful.


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## Sexyblackbmw (Mar 7, 2007)

Yeah, I heard the new dual action xt brake/shift lever set is fairly lightweight, and I wouldn't be saving much if I went separates, unless I changed my brakeset, and even so the Avid ultimates, can't be that much lighter?

I definatly agree on the wheelset...

DT 240s hubs, Aerolight spokes, alu nipples, and mavic x717 disc rims... that should hit the 1450 gram range, no?


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## jp3d (Oct 9, 2004)

The Crimson King said:


> avid ultimates (maybe with nino's discs...really cool!)


anyone know if these are the same as "nino's" They look identical


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## The Crimson King (Apr 25, 2006)

Sexyblackbmw said:


> Yeah, I heard the new dual action xt brake/shift lever set is fairly lightweight, and I wouldn't be saving much if I went separates, unless I changed my brakeset, and even so the Avid ultimates, can't be that much lighter?
> 
> I definatly agree on the wheelset...
> 
> DT 240s hubs, Aerolight spokes, alu nipples, and mavic x717 disc rims... that should hit the 1450 gram range, no?


i've checked on WW the Deore XT BR-M755	complete set weight is 936.5 g. avid ultimates are 690 g (stock) xt shifters (a bit tuned: no gear indicators and alu bolts) are 208. so 898 the set. mmmh i tought there was more difference  (I use v-brakes so...) . but if you use sram rocket shifters the weight will be another 20 g less.

the wheelset will definitely be around 1400 g.


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## rendered (Jan 13, 2005)

........


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## Sexyblackbmw (Mar 7, 2007)

you guys are awesome! I could talk about light bikes and parts all day long!

I'm definatly not going to think about using a seatpost shim! sounds dangerous if it voids the warranty, and I like my frame warranty... the shop told me its 5 years... I hope they were right!

yeah I've had rocket shifters in the past on my intense tracer... 

I'm gonna give these dual action levers a try, and If I don't like, it will be something I'll change in the future...

I wanna try to keep the entire drivetrain shimano, because in the past I found full shimano drivetrain shifted better, and smoother than when I started changing my cassette, and shifters, and crankset to other companies.

I wonder if anyone here has built the ultimate lightweight DISC wheelset for under $400 or $500.... I'd be interested to know!

not that I haven't or won't spend $1000 on a wheelset before, but it would be nice to put that $500 towards something else.


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## superses (Mar 28, 2007)

*dump some weight*

Then again you could always have a Vindaloo and 6 pints of Theakstons Old Peculiar the night before you ride---almost guaranteed to lose 500g at least next morninghttps://forums.mtbr.com/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif
:thumbsup:


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## JamieTiHardtail (Mar 28, 2007)

*lite comment*

jesus... you need to stop worrying about lighter parts, just get out on your bike and ride it. then perhaps spend money on lighter less durable parts as and when your components wear out.

perhaps you could give all the money you are intent on wasting to charity?

seriously though, maybe you should build the lightest bike ever and enjoy it for the 5 miles that it lasts on the trail.....


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## waterfield (Feb 25, 2007)

hey man, this is the weight weenie "lose some weight" forum. A forum for constructive discussion and suggestions. throw some ideas on some suggestions on parts and such, not comments that don't relate to the original post.

if u think making your bike lighter a waste of money, then go read and post in another forum, not here please. Cause I can probably say we weight weenie are proud to be a unique group and proud of or unique creations, whether its a 12lbs show bike or a slightly heavier raceable machine.


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## Purple Liquid (Dec 6, 2005)

JamieTiHardtail said:


> jesus... you need to stop worrying about lighter parts, just get out on your bike and ride it. then perhaps spend money on lighter less durable parts as and when your components wear out.
> 
> perhaps you could give all the money you are intent on wasting to charity?
> 
> seriously though, maybe you should build the lightest bike ever and enjoy it for the 5 miles that it lasts on the trail.....


Airborne Ti Frame,
Reba Forks,
8 speed XTR mechs and cassette with NOS XT thumbies, old skool but best set up ever!
Truvativ cranks, Thomson finishing kit.
Mavic rims and XTR disc brakes

^isn't that your bike setup? seems pretty light if you ask me... hmmm... i bet you only ride 5 miles into the trail then stop.

why don't you sell some of your parts and give the money to charity? After all, XTR is going to break on the next 5 mile ride correct?


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## JamieTiHardtail (Mar 28, 2007)

touche,

im not saying there is anything wrong with lighter kit, hence indeed my ride is fairly light, but my spec is also based on strength. 
My XTR components are from a time when they were built to last, my Truvativ cranks are tough as nails and my frame has extra gussets for strength. Also my Thomson seatpost and oversize stem arent exactly about to snap....
I imagine my NOS XT thumbies will probaby outlast me.

Maybe I was having a bit of a bad day when I left my last post, appologies any for rudeness  , I just find obsessing about 20 grams here and there seems a bit trivial, especially with the costs involved...and a show bike?? now that does make me chuckle.

Ill take my ignorance to another thread, but in the meantime if any of you guys know of a rider weight limit for Manitou R7 Super forks (2007) then could you possibly let me know? I cant find much info about them, and lets just say im no weight weenie myself.


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## Purple Liquid (Dec 6, 2005)

hey man, no hard feelings  

As far as the R7 Weight limit... I'm sure you could check answerproducts.com and they should be able to help you.

good luck :thumbsup:


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