# 1993 Trek 8000shx extreme makeover bike edition



## coleryan93 (Apr 21, 2017)

I have a 1993 Trek 8000 shx that I got as a high school graduation gift, yeah no car, thanks dad. It has been my noble steed for many moons now. I have overhauled it 2 times since, and now have decided it is ready for a 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] total make over. I have recently upgraded to a 2017 Fuel ex 8 for my current stallion, so this classic of mine is going to be made in to a commuter / crossbike / winter project.

I live in AK and in our small town we have MTB races for the summer months and cyclocross races in the fall before it gets too dark. Now these races are very well attended(50-80 racers, from ages 10 -70) and very well organized, but are all for the fun of riding bikes, you race against your buddies, the winners don't get prizes just bragging rights, and other random racers get big giant cookies.

This bike over haul is to bring it closer to cyclocross specs, skinny 700c wheels, 1x drivetrain, upgraded bottom bracket and crank, maybe try out some of those there curly looking handle bars. I have noticed other posts on here where some people are shunned for even thinking about doing what I want to do. They say why waste the time? You can't make that work. It will cost too much. It won't feel right. Just buy a cyclocross bike. Blah,Blah, Blah....... To them I say "so what". Why do people take old cars and refurbish them and put fancy dancy engines and radios in them? Because they can and want to try something different.

I will try and post updates as I go on from tear down, paint, assembly and test ride. The bike as seen in the photos has a weight of 30.8 lbs. I'm open and interested in suggestions as I go along, things that have and have not worked for you.


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## Undescended (Apr 16, 2018)

Sounds like a nice project. On my ‘92 Trek Antelope 830 I recently changed the cassette from 13-28t to 13-34t and the small chainring to 22t. Her climbing ability held me back in the sport and now she is the climber I always wished she’d be. The larger cogs on the cassette could not be used with the large chainring so I removed the chainring.


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

well... your project is not vintage not retro not classic. It will be cheaper and ride much much better if you just buy a Surly cross check. The secret sauce is ... Bottom bracket height.


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## MattiThundrrr (Jul 6, 2019)

Did you seriously say that a 26 year old bike, the one in the picture with the long stem, 26" rims, 3x9 drivetrain, bar ends, and rim brakes isn't vintage or retro? You could debate "classic" all day, but I'd say the old Trek is a classic example of a vintage/retro bike. 
The secret sauce actually is not bashing on other peeps' projects 'cuz they don't fit your narrow definition of VRC


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## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

MattiThundrrr said:


> Did you seriously say that a 26 year old bike, the one in the picture with the long stem, 26" rims, 3x9 drivetrain, bar ends, and rim brakes isn't vintage or retro? You could debate "classic" all day, but I'd say the old Trek is a classic example of a vintage/retro bike.
> The secret sauce actually is not bashing on other peeps' projects 'cuz they don't fit your narrow definition of VRC


I seriously said that ... "This bike over haul is to bring it closer to cyclocross specs, skinny 700c wheels, 1x drivetrain, upgraded bottom bracket and crank, maybe try out some of those there curly looking handle bars." is not vintage retro. Nevermind classic.
Since you are feeling all right and mighty i will reinforce my opinion: it´s dumb since you can spend less and have a much better bike by just buying a new Surly instead of placing 700 wheels on a 26in frame creating bad geometry w/ new components. So yeah.. i think it svcks. Sue me.


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## coleryan93 (Apr 21, 2017)

Everyone has their opinion, and that's fine. I just wanted to make a post to share progress and ideas. I surf these forums all day for info and am great full for them. I have learned a lot and they have helped me make some good choices in upgrades, trouble shooting and otherwise. It says in the main page first thread that VRC is in the eye of the beholder. Yeah I am probably going top spend too much money and waste a lot of time, but so do other people with their boats, snowmobiles, houses and cars. If we don't have hobbies or do something we enjoy it makes for a dull life. My profession is auto collision repair, I see so many people take a "lame" car or truck and dump a ton of money into them and spend way more than what its worth, and what do they get out of it? The satisfaction of creating something, the bonding time with kids or siblings, something they can say "I did this". This project is something I am working on with my son and we are having a great time researching and studying it out. If this thread bothers you I am ok with people not following it. If there is another place I need to post this thread I would be happy to move it.

Update on the bike: I am working on striping the old paint off and will post some pics later today.


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

colker1 said:


> it´s dumb since you can spend less and have a much better bike by just buying a new xxx instead .


Pretty much sums up VRC in it's entirety, now doesn't it?


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## coleryan93 (Apr 21, 2017)

So I like to get the old paint off by using aircraft stripper, some like to sand off the paint, which is fine but takes a long time. Some say not to strip the paint off at all, and you can do that, but any chips and scratches will need to be feathered out with sand paper or they will show up through your new paint job. 

You just brush on the stripper and the old paint just starts to bubble off and you just use a hose and rinse it off and scrub with a red scotch bright pad. You may have to use the stripper 2 times to get it all off. Don't get this stuff on your skin, it burns fast and bad, water neutralizes it.


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## MattiThundrrr (Jul 6, 2019)

colker1 said:


> I seriously said that ... "This bike over haul is to bring it closer to cyclocross specs, skinny 700c wheels, 1x drivetrain, upgraded bottom bracket and crank, maybe try out some of those there curly looking handle bars." is not vintage retro. Nevermind classic.
> Since you are feeling all right and mighty i will reinforce my opinion: it´s dumb since you can spend less and have a much better bike by just buying a new Surly instead of placing 700 wheels on a 26in frame creating bad geometry w/ new components. So yeah.. i think it svcks. Sue me.


The parts hanging from the frame in no way diminish its age, or status. Maybe suggesting people toss out old frames and buy new bikes isn't quite appropriate for VRC forums. There's plenty of that over in the other forums. 
As for thinking it's dumb, I guess it is a good thing it isn't your project. Maybe when OP is done the build, they can report back as to wether or not the new geometry sucks.
And the subpoena is in the mail.


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## coleryan93 (Apr 21, 2017)

All the paint is off. Time to work on design and colors.


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## coleryan93 (Apr 21, 2017)

So now that it is all clean and scuffed smooth it is important to get it as clean as possible. No greasy finger prints. I use a wax and greasy remover and then a tack rag to make sure it is all clean. Since it it aluminum it has to be treated with an etching primer that bites in to the metal and then a grey sealer is applied.
I am using Standox water bourne automotive paint products so I have an unlimited supplies to choose from since this is my profession. First color I pick was a Chrysler green that is on the Chargers. I have to add a a hardener to the base coat so that it will dry enough to handle and mask for the second color a few hours after it is sprayed. Next I picked a Porsche tangerine for the main color. I also added hardener to the base coat and then baked the frame at 160 degrees for 15 minutes. When that was all done I could handle it carefully enough to lay out the decals that I got from https://velocals.com/ 
After I was able to put the decals on I put it back in the booth to apply the clear coat. Now to work on the components .


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## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

Geez that looks good


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## coleryan93 (Apr 21, 2017)

Found a Mercury wheel deal on www.Steepandcheap.com With some Schwalbe X-One tires.


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## fos'l (May 27, 2009)

Great looking frame. Guess some individuals will never realize that every action aren't financially perfect. Only challenge that I perceive is a 700 rim and the 26" brake posts.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

slapheadmofo said:


> Pretty much sums up VRC in it's entirety, now doesn't it?


Sure does, yet every time I think about selling everything I wind up buying just one more. Strange how that works.


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## coleryan93 (Apr 21, 2017)

fos'l said:


> Great looking frame. Guess some individuals will never realize that every action aren't financially perfect. Only challenge that I perceive is a 700 rim and the 26" brake posts.


I got the brake issue figured out, there are a few company's out there that make an adapter or retro fit design to make the jump from 26" to 700c. I'll be sure and post the info when I get to that point. My biggest challenge thus far is the drop bar/stem/riser, and making it feel and work decent. Thinking about it is the fun part.


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## coleryan93 (Apr 21, 2017)

Sorry for the long waiting period, with holidays, my busy season for work and indoor Zwift riding, I have been setting the project aside until this past weekend. So I got a 36t front chain ring that barely clears the frame. Some Salsa Cowbell drop bars (always need for cowbell), and some Paul components brakes. The rear are set up, I actually like them and they were easy to setup. I know some have said they really struggled to get them dialed in, but went fine for me, yes they are a little pricey though. So I did learn something about drivetrain, you can not used road shifters with MTB rear derailleur. There is no barrel adjuster on either end to fine tune the shifting. So I have another rear derailleur on the way, that will hopefully


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

coleryan93 said:


> So I did learn something about drivetrain, you can not used road shifters with MTB rear derailleur. There is no barrel adjuster on either end to fine tune the shifting. So I have another rear derailleur on the way, that will hopefully


I know you're waiting for the big reveal when it's all done, but you're just teasing with those shots! 

Have a look for some inline cable adjusters, that would solve your derailleur adjustment issue.

Grumps


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## coleryan93 (Apr 21, 2017)

Uncle Grumpy said:


> I know you're waiting for the big reveal when it's all done, but you're just teasing with those shots!
> 
> Have a look for some inline cable adjusters, that would solve your derailleur adjustment issue.
> 
> Grumps


Ugghhhh I should have posted my issue before reordering parts. I see lots of inline adjusters and also Wolf tooth makes a rear deraillier adapter with adjust for just the problem i have. (face palm)

Thank you for the advice


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## peter.thedrake (Aug 6, 2009)

That looks real nice


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## Boise Jim (Apr 19, 2010)

Hey! What happened to the build?!


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## coleryan93 (Apr 21, 2017)

Funny you should ask. I just wrapped the bar this morning, got the drivetrain all dialed in and shifting works great, brakes completed and good. Going to test ride it tonight or tomorrow. Photoshoot soon tho come. Thanks for checking in.


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## Boise Jim (Apr 19, 2010)

What a fun build!


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## flitzr951 (Mar 20, 2009)

coleryan93 said:


> some Paul components brakes. The rear are set up, I actually like them and they were easy to setup. I know some have said they really struggled to get them dialed in, but went fine for me, yes they are a little pricey though.


I rode PAUL Motolites for years, setting them up is definitely weird, but once you figure it out it is easier and better IMO, plus the cable release design is better (period). No doubt the best V-brakes I have ever ridden.


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## rolondo (Jul 19, 2005)

coleryan93 said:


> So now that it is all clean and scuffed smooth it is important to get it as clean as possible. No greasy finger prints. I use a wax and greasy remover and then a tack rag to make sure it is all clean. Since it it aluminum it has to be treated with an etching primer that bites in to the metal and then a grey sealer is applied.
> I am using Standox water bourne automotive paint products so I have an unlimited supplies to choose from since this is my profession. First color I pick was a Chrysler green that is on the Chargers. I have to add a a hardener to the base coat so that it will dry enough to handle and mask for the second color a few hours after it is sprayed. Next I picked a Porsche tangerine for the main color. I also added hardener to the base coat and then baked the frame at 160 degrees for 15 minutes. When that was all done I could handle it carefully enough to lay out the decals that I got from https://velocals.com/
> After I was able to put the decals on I put it back in the booth to apply the clear coat. Now to work on the components .


This looks gorgeous. Can't wait to see the final build. I do think it would look better without the decal on the downtube. It isn't needed, and looks a little off with the lettering not vertical.


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## coleryan93 (Apr 21, 2017)

So the riding season has ended for me. I got about 600 miles on the rebuild bike, and I love it. Very comfortable and everything works well for my riding style. Shifters are great the 1x11 is solid and I have the best range I could get. I do wish I could go a size bigger on the chainring but the teeth just barely miss the frame. The chain line is a big stretch and when in the lowest gear on a real hard climb I get a little popping but not bad. The brakes are wicked awesome. I think if I was gonna do it again I would leave off the front brakes as I never use them and just put a dummy lever for riding comfort. The front fork is heavy but with Alaska roads you need the suspension it just rattles you to death. Long rides on gravel not so much fun, really hard in the saddle. It’s a real joy, and had fun building it. I did forget to weigh it though before I put it on the ceiling. 

I have my hands on a 1974 Schwinn I might do a winter project on in the future. Thanks for following. Sorry it took so long.


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

Good stuff! How is the geometry working, that seemed to be a "thing" toward the start of the thread so keen to see your opinion being the pilot and all.

I must have missed the painting stuff first time around. As soon as you started talking about scuffing and wax and grease I thought "hang on, this guy knows painting". I'm doing a car, body is done and painting panels at the moment - just in acrylic because I'm a novice hack. I found a hybrid on a hard rubbish pile and converted it to a gravel bike using parts I mostly had, so it came out fairly cheap. I stripped the frame and gave it a shot of etch, primer, base and clear while I was doing the panels.









Chrysler Alpine White, because Mopar or no car.

Grumps


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## coleryan93 (Apr 21, 2017)

The geometry is good for me. My butt gets sore though 😁. The narrow handle bars took a few mins to get used to. I’m was used to the wide MTB bars. Shifts great. Love it. Great job on the white bike. 💪🏼


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## camekanix (Sep 1, 2012)

Congratulations on a great project! Glad it's working so well for you. I have a mid 80's Schwinn Sierra just begging to become my urban assault unit to keep at the office for lunch time rides. Thanks for the inspiration!


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